# Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread



## shepdog

MSRP: $2999.00


* SCROLL DOWN FOR KNOWN ISSUES*

*The brilliant HDR-compatible home theater projector with 4K Enhancementb*.

Offering exceptional color performance, the Home Cinema 5040UB delivers immersive experiences. Featuring 4K Enhancement Technology, this brilliant home theater projector supports 4K streaming devices and Ultra HD Blu-ray content. It's also compatible with High Dynamic Range (HDR) content, displaying an extraordinary range of brightness levels with deep, dramatic blacks. Delivering 2,500 lumens of color brightness and 2,500 lumens of white brightness, the 5040UB is ideal for a variety of rooms. Its expansive color gamut displays the entire sRGB and DCI color spaces3. A 1,000,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio ensures rich detail in both bright and dark scenes, while its 16-piece glass lens achieves stunning clarity.





*Up to 3x Brighter Colors with Epson**

Brilliant image quality requires high color brightness. Epson 3LCD projectors have up to 3x Brighter Colors than leading competitive projectors.* Delivering 2500 lumens of color brightness and 2500 lumens of white brightness, the PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB uses 3LCD, 3-chip technology for brilliant images with true-to-life color.



*Model*:V11H71302



*Projection System*:Epson 3LCD, 3-chip optical engine



*Native Resolution*:1080p (1920 x 1080) with 4K enhancement



*Color Brightness*:2500 lumens



*White Brightness*:2500 lumens



Product Guides & Additional Information:

http://m.epson.com/alf_upload/pdfs/projectors/brochure_5040UB_specs.pdf







*Key Features*



*Bright and Colorful*



Features 2500 lumens of color brightness (color light output)1 and 2500 lumens of white brightness (white light output)1





*4K Enhancement Technology*



Epson's 4K Enhancement Technology delivers astonishing picture quality — every subtle intricacy is captured.





*Contrast Ratio*

Up to 1,000,000:1 contrast ratio


*Lens Shift*

Equipped with horizontal and vertical lens shift, to help configure projector setup

1080p

Supports full HD 1080p resolution

*3-Dimensional Picture*

2D & 3D Full HD technology puts you right in the middle of exciting, lifelike adventures, and Bright 3D Drive allows for bright, 3D projection.



*4K Enhancement Technology*— accepts 4K input and supports HDCP 2.2 for truly immersive scenes with 4K content

*HDR compatible* — enjoy HDR content, with an extremely wide range of brightness levels for images bursting with real-life color

*Bright* — ideal for a variety of lighting conditions.

The Home Cinema 5040UB has:

Color Brightness: 2500 lumens2

White Brightness: 2500 lumens2

*Expansive color gamut *— get brilliant, color-rich performance that displays the entire sRGB color space, plus DCI in Digital Cinema Mode

*Dramatic Ultra Black levels *— an improved iris design delivers up to a 1,000,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio

*Remarkable new cinema lens *— designed and manufactured in Japan, it features a 16-piece glass structure optimized for 4K performance and precision

*Epson Image Enhancement Technology *— features Super-resolution and improved Detail Enhancement to sharpen and refine images for lifelike smoothness and clarity

*Powered lens position memory* — preset up to 10 positions for motorized focus, zoom and lens shift; features 2.1x zoom and ultra wide lens shift

*Outstanding service *— 2-year limited warranty and toll-free support



Eco Features

RoHS compliant

Recyclable product4

Epson America, Inc. is a SmartWay Transport Partner5





For more information on Epson's environmental programs, go to www.epson.com/environment












*****TIPS*****

Manually Setting HDR
Menu -> Signal -> Advanced 



***********video explaining 4:4:4***********



gnolivos said:


> I was lost on the topic of 4:2:0 etc and found this...
> 
> http://www.personal-view.com/talks/...video-explaining-444-422-and-420-for-noobs/p1








Royboy 365 suggested a spot for known issues


******KNOWN ISSUES******





rjtoudouze said:


> From Epson regarding the HDR issue:
> 
> 
> 
> Epson is aware of this, and so far the testing has shown only one manufactures (Philips) where it does do the HDR. There has been a request to the engineers for a fix.







* The Samsung UBD-8500 does not pass 10 or 12bit, and only Rec709. Waiting on firmware update. *

Kpump is also reporting that the Epson does not detect HDR from the shield after trying several cables. 

Looks like the Philips player is the only player that provides HDR to the Epson at this time. 




royboy365 said:


> Member Ix reports being able to stream in HDR on Nvidia device. I do not have the latest Panasonic UHD player to report on that.




Thanks to cnorth12
Samsung player has HDR streaming through Amazon App. 

No Netflix HDR as of yet. Firmware update supposedly anytime, but who knows? 

Philips has only 2 apps, Netflix and Youtube no HDR. 

Xbox One S offers Netflix HDR streaming but that's it and of course the 4k blu-ray player that comes built in




From wbcollegekid


wbcollegekid said:


> I spoke to one of the senior technical gurus at Epson. Several days ago I alerted them to the fact that the Samsung UBD-8500 was not passing 10 or 12bit, and only Rec709. The guy who I spoke to today said because of that they went and purchased the Xbox One S, Samsung, and Phillips. As I stated yesterday, and now confirmed by Epson, the Phillips is the only player capable of doing 10/12bit. The Rec.2020 is only a container for the P3 color space. The Epson cannot natively do Rec.2020. When the Epson receives HDR, it converts it to the HDR2 preset, which is for P3 color space for the Digital Cinema setting. However, manually switching to HDR1 preset in Bright Cinema mode gives you P3 color space. Bright Cinema mode is best for HDR.The partial 12bit in the manual refers to it dithering 10bit signal to 12bit. Many current TVs that advertise HDR are 8bit that dither to 10bit. All in all, I am very happy with the capabilities of this projector





Viche said:


> So here's my latest crack at trying to sum up compatibility between the Epsons and various devices. This isn't perfect. Please post corrections with supporting pictures or documentation. If we can get this close to correct, maybe it can be stickied somewhere.
> 
> Source for some of this info: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/
> 
> * Baseline info:*• The HDMI chipset within the Epson has a bandwidth limitation of 10 Gbps
> • There are limitations to the signal that the Epson can accept due to this chipset
> • 4k Blu-rays are encoded as 4k24 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit Rec709 (non HDR) or 10-bit Rec2020 (HDR10) neither of which are supported by the HDMI 2.0 specification
> • Some form of signal conversion must occur in order for any device using HDMI 2.0 to accept a 4K Blu-ray signal
> • The signal transmitted by the device must fall within the Epson’s 10Gbs HDMI chipset limitation for it to be displayed on the projector​
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Samsung K8500 4K Blu-ray Player & Xbox One S*• Both convert Blu-rays to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec709 which Epson can support
> • HDR movies with Rec2020 color are reduced to Rec709, so HDR is stripped
> • The resulting image for HDR movies generally appears too dark on the Epson​*Phillips, Panasonic, Oppo (hopefully)*• Each convert the signal to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec 709 which the Epson supports
> • HDR movies with Rec 2020 color are converted to 4k24 / 4:2:2 / 12-bit Rec2020 which the Epson supports
> • The resulting image generally appears appropriate other than the Epson not having enough lumens to display HDR as intended​*Fury & Oppo (hopefully)*• Both send an Epson compatible signal, but have the ability to strip HDR, while leaving the expanded Rec2020 color intact for those who feel the Epson is too dark for HDR​*Roku Ultra (4K)*• Sends 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec709 which is supported by Epson
> • HDR movies with Rec2020 color are reduced to Rec709, so HDR is stripped (despite the screen showing 8-bit HDR BT2020, HDR BT2020 requires at least 10-bit color – is Rec2020 color really being preserved here? )​*Amazon Fire Stick*• HDR signal is downgraded to 4k / Rec709​*YouTube*• YouTube 4k videos are natively up to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit
> • If your player can send that native signal, the Epson can handle it
> • Players that send the signal properly include: ????​*Netflix*• Netflix’s 4k videos are natively ?????
> • If your player can send that native signal, the Epson can handle it
> • Players that send the signal properly include: ????​*Gaming (PCs, 4k games on PS4 Pro & Xbox Scorpio)*• The Epson’s HDMI chipset (10 GBPS limitation) will only accept 4k60 at 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
> • It is unknown whether these gaming devices will send 4k signals in this format. If for example they send the signal as 4k60 / 4:4:4 / 10-bit, the signal will fail or be downgraded to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
> • Either way, 4:4:4 will get downgraded to 4:2:0 and/or color will be downgraded to 8-bit (non-HDR) assuming the source was HDR to begin with​*Future video devices:*• High Frame Rate (HFR) 4k Blu-ray will display with nothing higher than 8-bit color on the Epson
> • If a future format support 4:4:4, color can be no higher than 8-bit for it to work on the Epson
> • Dolby Vision’s goal is to be 12-bit color. This should work with the Epson, assuming the player can send the signal as 4:2:2​


----------



## shepdog

*Projector Reviews Review*

http://www.projectorreviews.com/eps...-cinema-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review/





Ronman79 said:


> *Sound and Vision Review!*http://www.soundandvision.com/conte...b-3d-dlp-projector-review#35ZuidghClMpIgE0.97:kiss:
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome....




*Projector Central Review*

http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review.htm


*ProjectorReviews.com review







*


----------



## shepdog

Projector People YouTube review


----------



## flyinmunky99

I got one on pre-order in UK. Was wondering what 3D glasses you guys using or recommend for best image quality.


----------



## shepdog

flyinmunky99 said:


> I got one on pre-order in UK. Was wondering what 3D glasses you guys using or recommend for best image quality.




I've only had the projector for 5 days. I haven't purchased any 3D glasses yet. I would love to know if their are cheaper alternatives to the Epson branded glasses.


----------



## rupedogg24

Yay!! An official thread. 

I will reach through my screen and beat anyone that mentions the word JVC.


----------



## agalba

shepdog said:


> I would love to know if their are cheaper alternatives to the Epson branded glasses.


Samsung SSG-5100GB glasses from my 2013 Samsung TV work fine with the 5040. They are much cheaper than the Epson branded ones.


----------



## luismanrara

rupedogg24 said:


> Yay!! An official thread.
> 
> I will reach through my screen and beat anyone that mentions the word JVC.


 I second that 

I will be purchasing this projector in a couple of weeks, looking forward to gathering info here on my way there.


----------



## rupedogg24

luismanrara said:


> I second that
> 
> I will be purchasing this projector in a couple of weeks, looking forward to gathering info here on my way there.


 You won't regret it. Had it almost a week and really haven't dialed it in. Need to have someone come out and calibrate it for me. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## jayselle

Current firmware as of 8/29/16 appears to be v103











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jayselle

Question about HDR and color.

I'm currently watching The Revenant in 4K Ultra HD with the Samsung UBD-K8500.

Movie packaging claims HDR and Wide Color Spectrum.

Yet, color shows as 8 bit BT.709 4:4:4 and HDR2 (not sure what the 2 means). 

I thought we would be seeing 10 bit BT.2020 with these movies. Am I missing something ?











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## flyinmunky99

agalba said:


> Samsung SSG-5100GB glasses from my 2013 Samsung TV work fine with the 5040. They are much cheaper than the Epson branded ones.


Awesome, ill pick up them up tomorrow seeing as they cheap.


----------



## shepdog

I received my 5040 on Wednesday. I took the day off to get it installed. My projector is shelf mounted 16 ft from the screen. My seating is probably 15-16ft depending on recline position. I have a 120” Elite manual SMR pull down. (That's right. Manual)

My frame of reference is a 60” LG plasma in the living room and a 50” Panasonic plasma in the bedroom. 

I currently don't own a blue ray player. I'm waiting on OPPO to release their 4K player. So I'm using Roku and Amazon Fire to stream 4K content and my son’s Xbox for older blue rays. 

For the first few days I used att unverse to provide local and hdtv/cable. I decided to cut the cord and currently I'm using only streaming sources and the Xbox. 

HDMI 1 is connected by cat6 cables. I am using a atlona HDMI/cat6 switcher between my Roku and the projector for 4K content. It converts back to HDMI at the projector. 

HDMI 2 is connected by a 35 ft blue ridge cable from my Yamaha a840 receiver. I have my Amazon Fire and Xbox going throughout my receiver. 

My projector is setup in our family living room. It basically includes three rooms (living, dining and kitchen). It has (6) large windows and (1) door. It also has a arched opening that leads to the front part of the house. No way for complete light control. 

I've watched a bit of football both at night and during the day. The Cowboy game against Seattle on the local CBS channel via uverse was soft. It was watchable but noticeable softer than games on the NFL network. The picture was definitely a step down from some of the shows on Netflix. A replay of the Cowboys Dolphins game on the NFL channel was really good. I used bright cinema/medium fan for both games. It looked fine with a few lights on. I was worried the light would make the screen unwatchable but everyone was happy with the picture with a bit of light. 

As a family we have watched a episode of Strange Things every night streamed from Netflix. The info screen shows rec709 8bit sdr. 

This is my first projector but the picture just blows me away. Strange Things has a ton of dark creepy night scenes and they look fantastic. It has already become must family viewing at night (my kids are 19 and 21). Last night my oldest asked why our local theater was not as good. (Ok kissing up to dad but it worked ). 

At night I have pretty good control of lighting. Not pitch black but close. I use either bright cinema or cinema/ fan on Eco. 

I have no issue with fan noise. I've never felt the need to increase it beyond medium. At this level it is inaudible to me. 

I have done no calibration at all. Plan on buying a disc and doing some adjustments this weekend. 

I could not be happier. I've had this thing for a week and already have 15 hours on the bulb.


----------



## shepdog

jayselle said:


> Question about HDR and color.
> 
> I'm currently watching The Revenant in 4K Ultra HD with the Samsung UBD-K8500.
> 
> Movie packaging claims HDR and Wide Color Spectrum.
> 
> Yet, color shows as 8 bit BT.709 4:4:4 and HDR2 (not sure what the 2 means).
> 
> I thought we would be seeing 10 bit BT.2020 with these movies. Am I missing something ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



This posted by wbcollegekid on another thread. 



wbcollegekid said:


> I spoke to one of the senior technical gurus at Epson. Several days ago I alerted them to the fact that the Samsung UBD-8500 was not passing 10 or 12bit, and only Rec709. The guy who I spoke to today said because of that they went and purchased the Xbox One S, Samsung, and Phillips. As I stated yesterday, and now confirmed by Epson, the Phillips is the only player capable of doing 10/12bit. The Rec.2020 is only a container for the P3 color space. The Epson cannot natively do Rec.2020. When the Epson receives HDR, it converts it to the HDR2 preset, which is for P3 color space for the Digital Cinema setting. However, manually switching to HDR1 preset in Bright Cinema mode gives you P3 color space. Bright Cinema mode is best for HDR.The partial 12bit in the manual refers to it dithering 10bit signal to 12bit. Many current TVs that advertise HDR are 8bit that dither to 10bit. All in all, I am very happy with the capabilities of this projector


----------



## DanGraney

agalba said:


> Samsung SSG-5100GB glasses from my 2013 Samsung TV work fine with the 5040. They are much cheaper than the Epson branded ones.





shepdog said:


> I've only had the projector for 5 days. I haven't purchased any 3D glasses yet. I would love to know if their are cheaper alternatives to the Epson branded glasses.


I have some Xpand X105-RF-X1 glasses leftover from my Sony 40es, and can confirm that they pair easily and work! Should be able to find those fairly cheaply.


----------



## rupedogg24

jayselle said:


> Current firmware as of 8/29/16 appears to be v103
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Was this updated recently?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

flyinmunky99 said:


> Awesome, ill pick up them up tomorrow seeing as they cheap.


Yep, they work great. Even the ones I have from 5 years ago that came with my D8000 work well. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## jayselle

rupedogg24 said:


> Was this updated recently?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk



No, just stating the firmware mine came with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## johnson636

My level of intrigue is beyond measure

Are you guys happy with the out of box presets?
Looking to throw an image size of 165" tops and no smaller than 135".....Looks like the 5040UB may be up to the challenge.


----------



## ac388

Since I just notice u have a Panasonic plasma, somebody did tell me that the 3D glasses for Panasonic also work on Epson projector. Can you try that out to see if it is true. Thanks.




shepdog said:


> I received my 5040 on Wednesday. I took the day off to get it installed. My projector is shelf mounted 16 ft from the screen. My seating is probably 15-16ft depending on recline position. I have a 120” Elite manual SMR pull down. (That's right. Manual)
> 
> My frame of reference is a 60” LG plasma in the living room and a 50” Panasonic plasma in the bedroom.
> 
> I currently don't own a blue ray player. I'm waiting on OPPO to release their 4K player. So I'm using Roku and Amazon Fire to stream 4K content and my son’s Xbox for older blue rays.
> 
> For the first few days I used att unverse to provide local and hdtv/cable. I decided to cut the cord and currently I'm using only streaming sources and the Xbox.
> 
> HDMI 1 is connected by cat6 cables. I am using a atlona HDMI/cat6 switcher between my Roku and the projector for 4K content. It converts back to HDMI at the projector.
> 
> HDMI 2 is connected by a 35 ft blue ridge cable from my Yamaha a840 receiver. I have my Amazon Fire and Xbox going throughout my receiver.
> 
> My projector is setup in our family living room. It basically includes three rooms (living, dining and kitchen). It has (6) large windows and (1) door. It also has a arched opening that leads to the front part of the house. No way for complete light control.
> 
> I've watched a bit of football both at night and during the day. The Cowboy game against Seattle on the local CBS channel via uverse was soft. It was watchable but noticeable softer than games on the NFL network. The picture was definitely a step down from some of the shows on Netflix. A replay of the Cowboys Dolphins game on the NFL channel was really good. I used bright cinema/medium fan for both games. It looked fine with a few lights on. I was worried the light would make the screen unwatchable but everyone was happy with the picture with a bit of light.
> 
> As a family we have watched a episode of Strange Things every night streamed from Netflix. The info screen shows rec709 8bit sdr.
> 
> This is my first projector but the picture just blows me away. Strange Things has a ton of dark creepy night scenes and they look fantastic. It has already become must family viewing at night (my kids are 19 and 21). Last night my oldest asked why our local theater was not as good. (Ok kissing up to dad but it worked ).
> 
> At night I have pretty good control of lighting. Not pitch black but close. I use either bright cinema or cinema/ fan on Eco.
> 
> I have no issue with fan noise. I've never felt the need to increase it beyond medium. At this level it is inaudible to me.
> 
> I have done no calibration at all. Plan on buying a disc and doing some adjustments this weekend.
> 
> I could not be happier. I've had this thing for a week and already have 15 hours on the bulb.


----------



## shepdog

ac388 said:


> Since I just notice u have a Panasonic plasma, somebody did tell me that the 3D glasses for Panasonic also work on Epson projector. Can you try that out to see if it is true. Thanks.




I dont have any 3D glasses at all


----------



## Ronman79

So, I'm on the fence. Haven't purchased a projector yet. Anyone know how this compares to the JVC RS400? 

LOL.... Just kidding...... You know it's bound to happen at some point though, right? 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

shepdog said:


> I dont have any 3D glasses at all


Tks for your quick answer. Hope somebody in this Epson thread do have a Panasonic 3D glasses n give it a try. Since I do have a Panny plasma n will be getting a 5040, n hope 1 glasses will fit both.


----------



## WestCDA

ac388 said:


> Tks for your quick answer. Hope somebody in this Epson thread do have a Panasonic 3D glasses n give it a try. Since I do have a Panny plasma n will be getting a 5040, n hope 1 glasses will fit both.


I have two sets of Panasonic RF glasses from my ST60 plasma that work perfectly with my 5030UB. It doesn't look like they've done anything different with the RF on the 5040, so you should be in good shape - provided the plasma you have was not an earlier set that didn't use RF


----------



## ac388

Thanks thanks thanks. Probably need a one-time synchronization like the last time with my Panny plasma, right ? If yes n when I do that, will it wipe out the lock with the plasma ?




WestCDA said:


> I have two sets of Panasonic RF glasses from my ST60 plasma that work perfectly with my 5030UB. It doesn't look like they've done anything different with the RF on the 5040, so you should be in good shape - provided the plasma you have was not an earlier set that didn't use RF


----------



## flamjam

Any comments on how good the motion handling is? Hopefully it's great! I've seen reports stating how quiet this projector is which is great news! If the motion is good, this will definitely be the projector I go with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jayselle

The Philips BDP7501 properly passes the wider color and HDR. I'm returning the Samsung 8500.

What I'm unclear on is the different projector settings for SDR, HDR1, HDR2, HDR3, HDR4. The higher the number the darker the picture. The 5040 selects HDR2 if set to Auto.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shepdog

jayselle said:


> The Philips BDP7501 properly passes the wider color and HDR. I'm returning the Samsung 8500.
> 
> What I'm unclear on is the different projector settings for SDR, HDR1, HDR2, HDR3, HDR4. The higher the number the darker the picture. The 5040 selects HDR2 if set to Auto.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Where do you change it from auto?


----------



## Raffy87

Hello, 
any chance the thread can be renamed to include the 6040 as well? I own the 5040 but opening to include the 6040 may help generate more active use and be beneficial to all owners of the new Epson projectors.

Just my two cents...


----------



## shepdog

Raffy87 said:


> Hello,
> 
> any chance the thread can be renamed to include the 6040 as well? I own the 5040 but opening to include the 6040 may help generate more active use and be beneficial to all owners of the new Epson projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> Just my two cents...




Done.


----------



## sunnyvali

jayselle said:


> The Philips BDP7501 properly passes the wider color and HDR. I'm returning the Samsung 8500.
> 
> What I'm unclear on is the different projector settings for SDR, HDR1, HDR2, HDR3, HDR4. The higher the number the darker the picture. The 5040 selects HDR2 if set to Auto.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have manually selected HDR1, but on the info screen I still see HDR2. Not sure the info screen is showing the correct settings.


----------



## Bufftweaker

Hi,

Anyone here with a 5040 that upgraded from a BenQ W1070 or similar? Nowhere around in my country I can view the 5040 in a good test environment before buying (i can return in within 14 days) so I want to know how much of an upgrade it is, the BenQ is nice but lacks a bit in blacks and contrast for movies in my opinion to enjoy it to the fullest. I watch a lot of dark sci-fi and horror stuff so in scenes where there are a lot of night skies or the t-rex paddock night scene from Jurassic park even, I wonder how great this can look if it shadows were just darker and color looking more vibrant.  My room has no light from the outside full sunlight blocking windows.


----------



## Aberk

shepdog said:


> This posted by wbcollegekid on another thread.
> 
> 
> 
> wbcollegekid said:
> 
> 
> 
> I spoke to one of the senior technical gurus at Epson. Several days ago I alerted them to the fact that the Samsung UBD-8500 was not passing 10 or 12bit, and only Rec709. The guy who I spoke to today said because of that they went and purchased the Xbox One S, Samsung, and Phillips. As I stated yesterday, and now confirmed by Epson, the Phillips is the only player capable of doing 10/12bit. The Rec.2020 is only a container for the P3 color space. The Epson cannot natively do Rec.2020. When the Epson receives HDR, it converts it to the HDR2 preset, which is for P3 color space for the Digital Cinema setting. However, manually switching to HDR1 preset in Bright Cinema mode gives you P3 color space. Bright Cinema mode is best for HDR.The partial 12bit in the manual refers to it dithering 10bit signal to 12bit. Many current TVs that advertise HDR are 8bit that dither to 10bit. All in all, I am very happy with the capabilities of this projector
Click to expand...


Can anyone put this in lay terms. I don't have my 5040 yet, but I am trying to pick a UHD player and dont know if the Phillips or Samsung is a better choice.


----------



## luismanrara

Aberk said:


> Can anyone put this in lay terms. I don't have my 5040 yet, but I am trying to pick a UHD player and dont know if the Phillips or Samsung is a better choice.


I heard from some actual users that the Philips was the better match for the Epson at this point.


----------



## sunnyvali

luismanrara said:


> I heard from some actual users that the Philips was the better match for the Epson at this point.


It seems like Phillips and Epson 5040 are a good combo until Samsung and Epson figures out who need to fix it.

My Phillips and Epson 5040 info. Philipps --> Pioneer SC95 --> Epson 5040 with a 45 feet cable.


----------



## Al O

Pictures taken on 150" 16x9 Elite screen,out of the box settings.


----------



## kpkingdon

*Cable for 5040*



sunnyvali said:


> It seems like Phillips and Epson 5040 are a good combo until Samsung and Epson figures out who need to fix it.
> 
> My Phillips and Epson 5040 info. Philipps --> Pioneer SC95 --> Epson 5040 with a 45 feet cable.


If the 45 foot cable works, please identify the maker and model. 45 feet with 4K/60 HDR content is going to be a challenge.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Al O said:


> Pictures taken on 150" 16x9 Elite screen,out of the box settings.


What picture mode are you in? are you on high, med or low lamp setting?


----------



## sunnyvali

kpkingdon said:


> If the 45 foot cable works, please identify the maker and model. 45 feet with 4K/60 HDR content is going to be a challenge.


This is the cable I am using. My original HDMI cable also worked. It is about 2 years old. 

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12737&seq=1&format=2


http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12737&seq=1&format=2


----------



## shepdog

Screenshots from Marco Polo

iPhone 6
Projector is set the way it came out of the box
Streamed on Roku 4 from Netflix 

The shots from side are from 8ft
Straight ahead 15ft

Some light from kitchen and hallway.


----------



## cnorth12

5040UB in cinema mode and Samsung 4k player during day with some abient light in a kitchen family room combo. 110" 1.1 gain 2.35:1 screen at 13ft away. Last pic is on Directv tv channel and 16:9 100" 1.1 gain screen. Pics taken with Samsung Note 7.


----------



## sunnyvali

Why does folks in the pictures looks to have very bad sunburn? 

I see that a lot with non HDR content and when HDR1 one any HDR is selected on the projector. 

I just can't figure out how to dial it down to where it looks uniform with HDR and non HDR sources. 

Where it is annoying is when you switch from watching a HDR source and to non-HDR. The colors are off and one has to manually change to SDR or auto. Especially, when I had HDR1 selected manually as HDR2 is just not acceptable to me. Too dim for my setup. 

Just annoying and nothing I can't get used to.


----------



## Al O

WynsWrld98 said:


> What picture mode are you in? are you on high, med or low lamp setting?


Out of box setting are Bright Cinema, Medium lamp, Brightness, Contrast, Color Saturation, tint all are 50.Auto Iris - High Speed.


----------



## Aberk

sunnyvali said:


> It seems like Phillips and Epson 5040 are a good combo until Samsung and Epson figures out who need to fix it.
> 
> My Phillips and Epson 5040 info. Philipps --> Pioneer SC95 --> Epson 5040 with a 45 feet cable.


Glad to hear it. Because that is pretty much what my setup will be except with a 35' HDMI.


----------



## johnson636

Al O said:


> Pictures taken on 150" 16x9 Elite screen,out of the box settings.


WOW! So that's a 5040 right out of the box.........Nice. The fact that you're getting a great picture on a 150" screen is very encouraging. Especially when the consensus around here is Deep black, great picture quality, thrown on a very large screen can only be accomplished by a projector made by J.......well you guys know


----------



## johnson636

cnorth12 said:


> 5040UB in cinema mode and Samsung 4k player during day with some abient light in a kitchen family room combo. 110" 1.1 gain 2.35:1 screen at 13ft away. Last pic is on Directv tv channel and 16:9 100" 1.1 gain screen. Pics taken with Samsung Note 7.


Niiiiiice!!!


----------



## sunnyvali

Aberk said:


> Glad to hear it. Because that is pretty much what my setup will be except with a 35' HDMI.


It took some time for me to get everything up and running/working. There are handshake issues between the Phillips player and downstream receiver/projector.

The first thing I did was to make sure I directly connect the Phillips to the projector with the 45' cable. I setup the Phillips for the 4:4:4 in the setup menu (with the projector on) to ensure the handshake takes place. Once that was setup, I connected with the receiver and worked my way to success. The Pioneer SC95 also needs to be setup for 4:4:4.

Now I turn on the projector first, which triggers and turns on the receiver (HDMI ARC) and then finally the video source.

Now it works consistently. 

I like 4K without HDR on this projector. I like it a lot... Just not sold on 4k with HDR on the Epson 5040. 

I am hoping someone who know how to calibrate this projector can share their settings...


----------



## shepdog

sunnyvali said:


> It took some time for me to get everything up and running/working. There are handshake issues between the Phillips player and downstream receiver/projector.
> 
> 
> 
> The first thing I did was to make sure I directly connect the Phillips to the projector with the 45' cable. I setup the Phillips for the 4:4:4 in the setup menu (with the projector on) to ensure the handshake takes place. Once that was setup, I connected with the receiver and worked my way to success. The Pioneer SC95 also needs to be setup for 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I turn on the projector first, which triggers and turns on the receiver (HDMI ARC) and then finally the video source.
> 
> 
> 
> Now it works consistently.
> 
> 
> 
> I like 4K without HDR on this projector. I like it a lot... Just not sold on 4k with HDR on the Epson 5040.
> 
> 
> 
> I am hoping someone who know how to calibrate this projector can share their settings...




I don't have a blue ray yet to test HDR on discs but when I stream Netflix and manually engage HDR 1-4 it imparts a strong red tint. I've basically just left everything on auto so far. 

I haven't done any calibrations yet because every time I turn it on the family plops in their seats ready to watch lol


----------



## BrianBuda

Al O said:


> Pictures taken on 150" 16x9 Elite screen,out of the box settings.


Thanks for the pictures, they look great! Think they finally persuaded me to get the 5040. Just have to paint and get a screen first :grin:


----------



## Raffy87

Hello,
attached are a couple more pictures taken with my Canon 70D of my 5040 playing the 4K UHD of San Andreas through the Samsung 8500. Hopefully these look better here than the last ones I did on my phone in another thread  I have some ambient light coming in from behind me; need to install the double doors leading into the theater room this weekend.


----------



## DanGraney

sunnyvali said:


> This is the cable I am using. My original HDMI cable also worked. It is about 2 years old.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12737&seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12737&seq=1&format=2


For reference, I'm using this one... although I don't have actual 4k content yet (waiting on Sony's reveal of the PS4 Neo next week) but I have been upconverting to 4k via my AVR just to test, and it seems to be working well:

https://amzn.com/B013SPI2IA


----------



## Aberk

sunnyvali said:


> This is the cable I am using. My original HDMI cable also worked. It is about 2 years old.
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12737&seq=1&format=2
> 
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12737&seq=1&format=2


That's too funny. I'm even using the same cable just a bit shorter.


----------



## Ronman79

Raffy87 said:


> Hello,
> attached are a couple more pictures taken with my Canon 70D of my 5040 playing the 4K UHD of San Andreas through the Samsung 8500. Hopefully these look better here than the last ones I did on my phone in another thread  I have some ambient light coming in from behind me; need to install the double doors leading into the theater room this weekend.


Awesome! Thanks....we need to see more 5040/6040 pics. 
I think this has been talked about, but....
I noticed rec.709 and 8 bit....Shouldn't that be higher with UHD Bluray?


----------



## Raffy87

Ronman79 said:


> Awesome! Thanks....we need to see more 5040/6040 pics.
> I think this has been talked about, but....
> I noticed rec.709 and 8 bit....Shouldn't that be higher with UHD Bluray?


Correct. There apparently is some sort of issue between the 5040 and the Samsung. Until one of them offers a firmware update this is how it's going to be from what I understand.
I have a Phillips UHD player arriving tomorrow that doesn't sound like it's suffering the same issue. I'll take some more pics tomorrow once it arrives.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

at last some dedicated thread with nice screenshots! my TW930 arriving next week with Philips player. So no HDR on Netflix using Philips? thought this was fixed with a firmware ?


----------



## Al O

Ronman79 said:


> Awesome! Thanks....we need to see more 5040/6040 pics.
> I think this has been talked about, but....
> I noticed rec.709 and 8 bit....Shouldn't that be higher with UHD Bluray?


 Pictures


----------



## Ronman79

Al O said:


> Pictures


Thanks, Al! More, please....!!!! Dark room, ambient light, bright scenes, dark scenes! Thanks again.


----------



## cdelena

I got mine today and after a quick setup am pretty impressed. I do have a couple of questions that maybe someone can help me with...

1) With my 8350 driven through my Onkyo 3030 receiver the volume graphic was displayed on the screen. It no longer is shown... any idea why?

2) My projector mount is on a shelf in the next room and the opening through the wall is 5"x 13" (which seemed adequate years ago when I built the theater) but the remote sensors are on the bottom ends of the 5040 and therefore hidden. I have temporarily rigged a solution that works 80% of the time by propping a mirror in the corner. Any good ideas on a better implementation?

Have plenty of experimenting to do in the future. All I did thus far is position it and plug in the HDMI I was using up till now.


----------



## imhotep6

Did anyone get the wireless version and can comment on it?

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## royboy365

imhotep6 said:


> Did anyone get the wireless version and can comment on it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


This was posted by rgg14 in the other thread on 8/30

*Wireless HDMI software is awful, the Epson 3600e wireless shows pop up windows on the screen the images of the inputs connected, so change among inputs was easy, this version does not show anything on the screen, you have to look to the wireless emitter for the lights to change between inputs, this is ridiculous, no way to know what connection you are on, so I have to wait 2-3 seconds to see what is in the input chosen, Epson figure out how is done in the 3600e, I hope they fixed with a firmware upgrade.


----------



## imhotep6

royboy365 said:


> This was posted by rgg14 in the other thread on 8/30
> 
> *Wireless HDMI software is awful, the Epson 3600e wireless shows pop up windows on the screen the images of the inputs connected, so change among inputs was easy, this version does not show anything on the screen, you have to look to the wireless emitter for the lights to change between inputs, this is ridiculous, no way to know what connection you are on, so I have to wait 2-3 seconds to see what is in the input chosen, Epson figure out how is done in the 3600e, I hope they fixed with a firmware upgrade.


Thanks. I was waiting to see which was Best. I really wanted the wireless but too much money for those issues. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## royboy365

cdelena said:


> 2) My projector mount is on a shelf in the next room and the opening through the wall is 5"x 13" (which seemed adequate years ago when I built the theater) but the remote sensors are on the bottom ends of the 5040 and therefore hidden. I have temporarily rigged a solution that works 80% of the time by propping a mirror in the corner. Any good ideas on a better implementation?


Use a remote extender.


----------



## royboy365

cdelena said:


> I got mine today and after a quick setup am pretty impressed. I do have a couple of questions that maybe someone can help me with...
> 
> 1) With my 8250 driven through my Onkyo 3030 receiver the volume graphic was displayed on the screen. It no longer is shown... any idea why?
> 
> 2) My projector mount is on a shelf in the next room and the opening through the wall is 5"x 13" (which seemed adequate years ago when I built the theater) but the remote sensors are on the bottom ends of the 5040 and therefore hidden. I have temporarily rigged a solution that works 80% of the time by propping a mirror in the corner. Any good ideas on a better implementation?
> 
> Have plenty of experimenting to do in the future. All I did thus far is position it and plug in the HDMI I was using up till now.





Bufftweaker said:


> Hi,
> 
> Anyone here with a 5040 that upgraded from a BenQ W1070 or similar? Nowhere around in my country I can view the 5040 in a good test environment before buying (i can return in within 14 days) so I want to know how much of an upgrade it is, the BenQ is nice but lacks a bit in blacks and contrast for movies in my opinion to enjoy it to the fullest. I watch a lot of dark sci-fi and horror stuff so in scenes where there are a lot of night skies or the t-rex paddock night scene from Jurassic park even, I wonder how great this can look if it shadows were just darker and color looking more vibrant.  My room has no light from the outside full sunlight blocking windows.


That is one of my projectors and I was able to A/B the difference which was huge. The 5040 blacks were considerably darker and with a much crisper picture. Much quieter projector without the light leakage in the front like the BenQ. 

You will be very happy with a 5040.... but to be honest you would also see a big difference from the BenQ by picking a up a new or used 5030 or Panny 8000 for a third to half of the price if you are on a budget.

5040 makes the most sense to someone going 4k, has or will get a UHD player and media along with the latest streaming devices that output 4k.


----------



## royboy365

ana_moo_ana said:


> at last some dedicated thread with nice screenshots! my TW930 arriving next week with Philips player. So no HDR on Netflix using Philips? thought this was fixed with a firmware ?


No HDR streaming on Philips or Samsung UHD players nor latest streaming devices from Roku or Amazon per personal experience. Member Ix reports being able to stream in HDR on Nvidia device. I do not have the latest Panasonic UHD player to report on that.


----------



## royboy365

shepdog said:


> where do you change it from auto?


menu --- signal --- advanced --- dynamic range


----------



## shepdog

royboy365 said:


> No HDR streaming on Philips or Samsung UHD players nor latest streaming devices from Roku or Amazon per personal experience. Member Ix reports being able to stream in HDR on Nvidia device. I do not have the latest Panasonic UHD player to report on that.




I don't have a UHD player yet but everything I've tried streaming has been 709 8bit. All my streaming so far has been Netflix. 

I will try Amazon next week. 

This weekend will be football intensive.


----------



## cnorth12

royboy365 said:


> No HDR streaming on Philips or Samsung UHD players nor latest streaming devices from Roku or Amazon per personal experience. Member Ix reports being able to stream in HDR on Nvidia device. I do not have the latest Panasonic UHD player to report on that.


Samsung player has HDR streaming through Amazon App. No Netflix HDR as of yet. Firmware update supposedly anytime, but who knows? Philips has only 2 apps, Netflix and Youtube no HDR. Xbox One S offers Netflix HDR streaming but that's it and of course the 4k blu-ray player that comes built in. Panasonic has the UBD-900 which is available this month for $700 which is way too high, but they just announced the UBD-700 to compete with the lower priced players on the market. No pricing as of yet, but the consensus is around $399. The last player to possibly make it out this year will be the PS4 Neo which should be a great option if you're in to games too. Then last but not least ROKU is revamping there streaming players all coming with 4k streaming capabilities and the top model also supporting HDR. Also with a possible September release.


----------



## shepdog

Thanks to royboy365 I added a section on the first page for known issues. 

Right now this is what I have:


royboy365 said:


> No HDR streaming on Philips or Samsung UHD players nor latest streaming devices from Roku or Amazon per personal experience. Member Ix reports being able to stream in HDR on Nvidia device. I do not have the latest Panasonic UHD player to report on that.


----------



## aaranddeeman

cdelena said:


> I got mine today and after a quick setup am pretty impressed. I do have a couple of questions that maybe someone can help me with...
> 
> 1) With my 8350 driven through my Onkyo 3030 receiver the volume graphic was displayed on the screen. It no longer is shown... any idea why?


Onkyo's (some of them, not sure of all) have On screen display only on main HDMI out. Make sure you are connecting that output to PJ and not second one.
Otherewise there is no reason why PJ will not display it.


----------



## cdelena

aaranddeeman said:


> Onkyo's (some of them, not sure of all) have On screen display only on main HDMI out. Make sure you are connecting that output to PJ and not second one.
> Otherewise there is no reason why PJ will not display it.


I simply pulled the HDMI from the 8350 that displayed the volume and hooked it to the 5040 so it should work. I did switch video processing on the Onkyo to 'bypass' so it and the projector would not both be dithering so maybe that change (or a finger check in the process) turned off the volume display. I will review in the morning (have a movie for tonight).


----------



## jayselle

cdelena said:


> I simply pulled the HDMI from the 8350 that displayed the volume and hooked it to the 5040 so it should work. I did switch video processing on the Onkyo to 'bypass' so it and the projector would not both be dithering so maybe that change (or a finger check in the process) turned off the volume display. I will review in the morning (have a movie for tonight).




Obviously, if you bypass the receiver's video processing it won't overlay volume control. I'm not familiar with Onkyo but I suspect it should have an option to allow video processing but disable any kind of conversion or scaling.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

jayselle said:


> Obviously, if you bypass the receiver's video processing it won't overlay volume control. I'm not familiar with Onkyo but I suspect it should have an option to allow video processing but disable any kind of conversion or scaling.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup. That's what it looks like..


----------



## rupedogg24

To those that have the projector, how do you turn it off? I ask because I hit standby to turn it off and it goes silent. No fan noise whatsoever. Is this normal? I'm use to hearing a cool down fan on my BenQ W1070.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## shepdog

rupedogg24 said:


> To those that have the projector, how do you turn it off? I ask because I hit standby to turn it off and it goes silent. No fan noise whatsoever. Is this normal? I'm use to hearing a cool down fan on my BenQ W1070.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk




Standby is correct. The lens cover will slide over and cover the lens. Mine is also completely silent. I've been watching about 3hrs per night for a week and I've never heard the fan after shutting it down


----------



## ana_moo_ana

royboy365 said:


> No HDR streaming on Philips or Samsung UHD players nor latest streaming devices from Roku or Amazon per personal experience. Member Ix reports being able to stream in HDR on Nvidia device. I do not have the latest Panasonic UHD player to report on that.




Thanks a lot. Hopefully Philips will release a firmware soon to address this. 

My old receiver doesn't support 4k/HDR/HDCP/atmos etc. Want to upgrade later this year so my best option currently to connect the philips directly to the projector for HDR/4K video & other one to the receiver for audio?


----------



## canillo

Pictures taken on 150" 16x9 Elite screen,out of the box settings.

Ai o ...what kind of screen from elite?white or gray? Does the image looks in person like in the pics? Ive notice that pics make the imge look sharper and with deeper blacks. I just purchased 112" elune vision reference studio 4k white motorized tab tensioned. I get really good image with my epson 5040 but i still bit washed out compared to my samsung un65hu8550 4k LED. Anyone has discover a good setting for the image. Not really happy with the factory settings. No 4k player for me right now, waiting for oppo player in november acording to Oppo costumer service. This is my first proyector so dont have anything to compare it too. Thank you..


----------



## canillo

Al O said:


> Pictures taken on 150" 16x9 Elite screen,out of the box settings.


 Ai o ...what kind of screen from elite?white or gray? Does the image looks in person like in the pics? Ive notice that pics make the imge look sharper and with deeper blacks. I just purchased 112" elune vision reference studio 4k white motorized tab tensioned. I get really good image with my epson 5040 but i still bit washed out compared to my samsung un65hu8550 4k LED. Anyone has discover a good setting for the image. Not really happy with the factory settings. No 4k player for me right now, waiting for oppo player in november acording to Oppo costumer service. This is my first proyector so dont have anything to compare it too. Thank you..


----------



## canillo

Help please...is this normal...I am getting this greenesh spot around my screen. It comes from my Epson 5040 because I put a direfent surface and still get it. There was some construction around the projector. Is it dirty or what. Is thsi normal? Only can see it when no source is active. Should I return and exchange.Still under my return days.


----------



## aaranddeeman

canillo said:


> Help please...is this normal...I am getting this greenesh spot around my screen. It comes from my Epson 5040 because I put a direfent surface and still get it. There was some construction around the projector. Is it dirty or what. Is thsi normal? Only can see it when no source is active. Should I return and exchange.Still under my return days.


It's either dust blob or stuck/dead pixel.
Invert the PJ and see if that moves to the bottom. If yes, then it's on PJ not outside.


----------



## shepdog

canillo said:


> Ai o ...what kind of screen from elite?white or gray? Does the image looks in person like in the pics? Ive notice that pics make the imge look sharper and with deeper blacks. I just purchased 112" elune vision reference studio 4k white motorized tab tensioned. I get really good image with my epson 5040 but i still bit washed out compared to my samsung un65hu8550 4k LED. Anyone has discover a good setting for the image. Not really happy with the factory settings. No 4k player for me right now, waiting for oppo player in november acording to Oppo costumer service. This is my first proyector so dont have anything to compare it too. Thank you..




This is my first projector as well. I'm coming from a plasma. I also am waiting on the oppo. I'm still at factory settings. Tv is hit and miss. Some great but a lot are meh. Not projectors fault. Just taking a bad compressed image and blowing it up

Netflix originals even though they are still being streamed sdr look amazing.


----------



## cdelena

jayselle said:


> Obviously, if you bypass the receiver's video processing it won't overlay volume control. I'm not familiar with Onkyo but I suspect it should have an option to allow video processing but disable any kind of conversion or scaling.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Exactly right. I reset video to 'normal' and the volume overlay is back.


----------



## amedius

I wud like to speak to Epson guy or mail to Epson since this 5040 is still not released in my country. Anyone have an idea. I am owning Epson Eh tw 6000 now and its only HD and pics are awesome. Looking forward to owning 5040.


----------



## Al O

Setup - Living room, Elite white 1.1 gain fix frame 150" 16x9 screen.Window Blinds close, Curtains open. For movies I close both.


----------



## flyinmunky99

My throw Lens to screen is 12.5 feet and I have a 120" screen 1.1 gain. Will this unit be bright enough for 3D? This will be my 1st 3D projector so hoping first impression will be good.

I could consider dropping down to 110" if it would make a decent difference in terms of brightness/contrast for 3D/ 2D etc...but if not much difference I wont bother.


----------



## luismanrara

Al O said:


> Setup - Living room, Elite white 1.1 gain fix frame 150" 16x9 screen.Window Blinds close, Curtains open. For movies I close both.


Loving those pics and your choice on content is hilarious.


----------



## sunnyvali

Al O said:


> Pictures


What kind of screen do you have?


----------



## Mike Garrett

Ronman79 said:


> So, I'm on the fence. Haven't purchased a projector yet. Anyone know how this compares to the JVC RS400?
> 
> LOL.... Just kidding...... You know it's bound to happen at some point though, right?
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


I would answer, but afraid that a hand would come out of my screen, reaching for my throat.


----------



## canillo

man it looks really sharp. Elite sells many tipes of screens, can you provide kind of screen or series? Also did you get your projector calibrated by a professional or what settings are you using?


----------



## canillo

aaranddeeman said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Help please...is this normal...I am getting this greenesh spot around my screen. It comes from my Epson 5040 because I put a direfent surface and still get it. There was some construction around the projector. Is it dirty or what. Is thsi normal? Only can see it when no source is active. Should I return and exchange.Still under my return days.
> 
> 
> 
> It's either dust blob or stuck/dead pixel.
> Invert the PJ and see if that moves to the bottom. If yes, then it's on PJ not outside.
Click to expand...

I just went to best buy and exchanged it for a new one. Now wait 6 days for it to arrive. I didnt want to take the risk of keeping a damaged unit.


----------



## Al O

flyinmunky99 said:


> My throw Lens to screen is 12.5 feet and I have a 120" screen 1.1 gain. Will this unit be bright enough for 3D? This will be my 1st 3D projector so hoping first impression will be good.
> 
> I could consider dropping down to 110" if it would make a decent difference in terms of brightness/contrast for 3D/ 2D etc...but if not much difference I wont bother.


I have 150" screen 1.1 gain, you be OK with 120". You can make adjustments to settings. Brightness as high as 100.


----------



## Al O

Pictures taken with Nikon coolpix P600, did NOT edit them.


----------



## Ronman79

*Sound and Vision Review!*http://www.soundandvision.com/content/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-3d-dlp-projector-review#35ZuidghClMpIgE0.97:kiss:

You're welcome....


----------



## WynsWrld98

Ronman79 said:


> *Sound and Vision Review!*http://www.soundandvision.com/content/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-3d-dlp-projector-review#35ZuidghClMpIgE0.97:kiss:
> 
> You're welcome....


What I took away from their comments about HDR on the 5040/6040 is it was subtle and certainly didn't sound worth the expense of a new Ultra HD BD player, new HDMI cable and price of UHD discs which Netflix/Redbox don't rent. I also didn't see comments about pic quality with eShift off vs. on and comments re: detail/sharpness differences of the same title with a 4K UHD BD vs. 1080p BD on the 6040.


----------



## shepdog

WynsWrld98 said:


> What I took away from their comments about HDR on the 5040/6040 is it was subtle and certainly didn't sound worth the expense of a new Ultra HD BD player, new HDMI cable and price of UHD discs which Netflix/Redbox don't rent. I also didn't see comments about pic quality with eShift off vs. on and comments re: detail/sharpness differences of the same title with a 4K UHD BD vs. 1080p BD on the 6040.




If they used the Samsung it was subtle because they didn't see HDR content. The only player passing HDR content to the Epson at this point is the Philips.


----------



## shepdog

If you read the review they checked the settings on the Samsung and changed them from auto to 4:4:4 but never mentioned verifying on the projector. If they had looked they would have seen rec709 sdr.


----------



## WynsWrld98

shepdog said:


> If they used the Samsung it was subtle because they didn't see HDR content. The only player passing HDR content to the Epson at this point is the Philips.


How could they be that incompetent?!?


----------



## WynsWrld98

Can a/some 5040/6040 owners comment on pic quality differences with eShift off vs. on and comment on detail/sharpness differences of the same title with a 4K UHD BD vs. 1080p BD? I own a 5030 and am trying to figure out if an upgrade makes sense. I'd like the powered zoom/focus/lens shift with memory but am wondering what else I'd notice if I buy an Ultra HD player/new HDMI cable/UHD BDs since I'm happy with the 5030 for 1080p but don't know what I'm missing with faux 4K and HDR.


----------



## shepdog

WynsWrld98 said:


> How could they be that incompetent?!?




I don't know but Epson and Samsung have acknowledge the Samsung player does not pass HDR to the Epson. 

Couple owners on here have stated the same and traded the Samsung in for the Philips. 

I'm personally waiting on the oppo


----------



## canillo

Can you turn the pixel shift on or off? When I looked at the setting in my epson it did not let me acces the setting. Im wondering if it was because the DVD was doing the up scaling. Projector info said i was seeing 4k


----------



## Wanderer82

So I just submitted my order tonight for the Epson 5040ub with a 84 inch easy cinema plus fold up screen. Have been doing research for so many months now and decided to pull the trigger. My family room where the projector will sit didn't have a spot for a permenant projector and screen, and anything besides something that I pull out of the closet when we watch a movie wouldn't pass the WAF. So it'll be placed on my coffee table when we open the screen up to watch a movie. I may build some sort of wooden enclosure so it won't look like a big piece of plastic on my coffee table, but not sure yet.

Anyway, super stoked. This is my first projector ever. I usually have a large tv, but we ended up with a smaller plasma that comes out of a piece of the furniture for daily watching.

The den has a bit of ambient light during the day, but can get pretty dark at night. It'll be sitting roughly 8 feet from the screen. I'll do some testing with it next week when it comes in. And I'll try out my panasonic 3d glasses with it. Although I hear we have to have a uhd Blu-ray player for the 3d to work?

Looking forward to start seeing folks' calibration settings. I may have my AV guy come out abd calibrate.


----------



## Wanderer82

Hi All,
Question on throw distance and size of screen that I can fit in. I had purchased an 84 inch diagonal screen this evening, and I have a 8 ish ft throw from where the projector will be sitting on my coffee table. I would much rather a 100 inch or larger screen but can't get more than an 8ft throw. Based on the user manual the 84 inch was at the minimum throw distance. Anyone know what happens if I did a 100 inch at 8ft throw? Can it not size properly, or does the image look worse?
Thanks


----------



## WynsWrld98

canillo said:


> Can you turn the pixel shift on or off? When I looked at the setting in my epson it did not let me acces the setting. Im wondering if it was because the DVD was doing the up scaling. Projector info said i was seeing 4k


There has to be a way to turn it off and on, at least for 1080p sources.


----------



## johnson636

Wanderer82 said:


> Hi All,
> Question on throw distance and size of screen that I can fit in. I had purchased an 84 inch diagonal screen this evening, and I have a 8 ish ft throw from where the projector will be sitting on my coffee table. I would much rather a 100 inch or larger screen but can't get more than an 8ft throw. Based on the user manual the 84 inch was at the minimum throw distance. Anyone know what happens if I did a 100 inch at 8ft throw? Can it not size properly, or does the image look worse?
> Thanks


If 84 inches is the largest image it will project from 8ft, then you'll project an 84" image onto a 100" screen or 120" screen, 150" screen, etc......If I understand you correctly.


----------



## canillo

Wanderer82 said:


> Hi All,
> Question on throw distance and size of screen that I can fit in. I had purchased an 84 inch diagonal screen this evening, and I have a 8 ish ft throw from where the projector will be sitting on my coffee table. I would much rather a 100 inch or larger screen but can't get more than an 8ft throw. Based on the user manual the 84 inch was at the minimum throw distance. Anyone know what happens if I did a 100 inch at 8ft throw? Can it not size properly, or does the image look worse?
> Thanks


I would advise to take the risk and purchase the 100 inch and just project the biggest image you can. You cant really tell from the specs because during test in my set up I was able to fill a bigger screen than the specs said I could from the distance I was projecting.


----------



## Ronman79

Al O said:


> Setup - Living room, Elite white 1.1 gain fix frame 150" 16x9 screen.Window Blinds close, Curtains open. For movies I close both.


Love the pics. They're helping us who are living vicariously through you! Thanks! Looks great. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

Mike Garrett said:


> I would answer, but afraid that a hand would come out of my screen, reaching for my throat.


Lol...I love the other thread too. But, it's good to see Epson owners posting more pics now. And, it's good to have a thread more dedicated to these new 40s! 

I'm anxiously awaiting CEDIA's announcements next month (and the birth of my son, if my wife sees this)! Epson laser, Oppo UHD, DLP 4K....????

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

WynsWrld98 said:


> What I took away from their comments about HDR on the 5040/6040 is it was subtle and certainly didn't sound worth the expense of a new Ultra HD BD player, new HDMI cable and price of UHD discs which Netflix/Redbox don't rent. I also didn't see comments about pic quality with eShift off vs. on and comments re: detail/sharpness differences of the same title with a 4K UHD BD vs. 1080p BD on the 6040.


I think the thing is that this is all new, budding tech that's gotta have some tweaks and time to settle in. It's a work in progress. Take for example, we just now got only the third UHD player on the market here in the US. I'm hoping to see something on Oppo's upcoming model soon. Netflix and the like offer very little right now overall, and we're seeing that some sources/components are compatible with some displays, and some are not, etc.... 

It's gonna settle eventually, and when it does, it'll be a grand thing. Now, you thinking you might wait... Not a bad idea, but hey, we're talking about early adopt items here.

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

WynsWrld98 said:


> How could they be that incompetent?!?


I know! And this is Sound and Vision! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Waffles

I just ordered the 5040 today. I canceled my JVC X550R order for one reason, response time. The JVC is up over 100 Milliseconds response time and I am a big fan of Halo and Call of Duty so the JVC just not going to work. I've heard the 5040/6040 isn't bad. Anybody have any hard numbers on response times?


----------



## gamest

Ronman79 said:


> I know! And this is Sound and Vision!
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Yeah, and they stated Epson 6040UB *DLP* ummmm did I miss something here?


----------



## Kelvin1000

Waffles said:


> I just ordered the 5040 today. I canceled my JVC X550R order for one reason, response time. The JVC is up over 100 Milliseconds response time and I am a big fan of Halo and Call of Duty so the JVC just is going to work. I've heard the 5040/6040 isn't bad. Anybody have any hard numbers on response times?


It's one of the best around.
I have seen 0.27 to 0.29 even in fine mode.


----------



## Ix

Waffles said:


> I just ordered the 5040 today. I canceled my JVC X550R order for one reason, response time. The JVC is up over 100 Milliseconds response time and I am a big fan of Halo and Call of Duty so the JVC just is going to work. I've heard the 5040/6040 isn't bad. Anybody have any hard numbers on response times?


It's good. The Sony's' are still faster, in the 20-ish ms range, and the jury is still out on what input lag is with pixel shifting enabled with the 5040 since there's no good way to measure it empirically yet, but we at least know without it it's fine for games. The best gaming PJs are still the sub 20ms DLPs by the likes of BenQ but you'll take a trade-off there with overall video quality and placement flexibility.

IMHO the *only* reason to go with the 5040 over the JVC is if you are a big gamer who still wants a quality movie/TV experience. Much better input lag and longer bulb life. Also an easier PJ to live with since things like input switching/resolution switching/etc. are also faster. The JVC is more of a dedicated theater type PJ where watching movies is priority 1. For living room/more casual use the 5040 is one of the best around.

Price wise on the street the 550 and 5040 are much closer than people think; don't go off list. At least in the US.


----------



## luismanrara

Price wise on the street the 550 and 5040 are much closer than people think; don't go off list. At least in the US.[/QUOTE]

Not if you add 3D which in my case is a must and high bulb maintenance, which for gamers is a must.


----------



## Waffles

I had a JVC HD250. Any kind of online FPS games or PC keyboard and mouse FPS was absolutely out of the question with the JVC. I agree, the 5040 is the best bet for gamers of which my usage is 50/50 games & movies. Definitely going to miss those black levels on the JVC although the projector people video of native 4K playback onto the 5040 with e-shift on was very impressive. That very up-close shot of the bark on the tree was absolutely breathtaking.


----------



## Al O

Art from projector review, Advanced Calibration for the 6040ub and 5040ub, paid subscribers only. Using early engineering sample of the 6040ub, after a full production version,we will update our review and revised settings due to changes made. First set is for Cine Mode, second set is for Bright Cinema Mode. My 76 yr old eyes did not see a difference.


----------



## WynsWrld98

luismanrara said:


> Price wise on the street the 550 and 5040 are much closer than people think; don't go off list. At least in the US.


Not if you add 3D which in my case is a must and high bulb maintenance, which for gamers is a must.[/QUOTE]
Has anyone seeing pricing on the 5040/6040 replacement lamps? Past history shows Epson way cheaper than JVC but take nothing for granted with a new model introduction. Regarding the comment about 3D cost I just purchased a combo of Expand RF glasses and 3D RF adapter that will work with JVC from Amazon for $29.99 so not a lot of $$ and neither the JVC or Epson come with any 3D glasses. This is different than in the past when my Epson 5030 included 2 pair of 3D glasses.


----------



## shepdog

Is there not enough JVC talk in the other thread?

I was going to order a extra lamp but I haven't found any yet. Starpower expects them to be around $180


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Hey guys, please help me understand. I will be getting a 2.31:1 screen. Now, the way I understand it, when I go back and forth from a 2.31:1 movie and back to 16:9 cable TV, with the 5030ub, I will need to manually readjust the picture each time to fit the screen, and, with the 5040ub, it will remember each setting so I can immediately change from 2.31:1 to 16:9 with the remote. Do I understand this correctly?


----------



## n4xxr76

I just opened my 5040ub yesterday, got it mounted and love it so far! Mike at AV Science was great to work with and I would recommend him to anyone who asks.  The picture is very good out of the box. I was planning on calibrating it this weekend, however I noticed a red/pink stripe in the top right of the screen present no matter the source. Before I call Epson I wanted to check and see if anyone knows of something I could have missed. It's ceiling mounted, 13ft from the 100 inch screen. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

n4xxr76 said:


> I just opened my 5040ub yesterday, got it mounted and love it so far! Mike at AV Science was great to work with and I would recommend him to anyone who asks.  The picture is very good out of the box. I was planning on calibrating it this weekend, however I noticed a red/pink stripe in the top right of the screen present no matter the source. Before I call Epson I wanted to check and see if anyone knows of something I could have missed. It's ceiling mounted, 13ft from the 100 inch screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Probably panel alignment is required.


----------



## flyinmunky99

Bit of a long shot, I'm trying to find out what is the native contrast measurement roughly for my current projector the Epson tw5500 (8500ub/9500 in US)
Can find old reviews but no native contrast measures. Would like to compare them to this new Epson.

If I'm not going to get much better contrast or at least a small upgrade to black level I may have to re-think this one.

Cheers!


----------



## bennutt

Has anyone hooked up the Xbox One S yet to see if Epson will "get all the check marks" and accept the HDR content?
I saw comments on Samsung vs Phillips.
Ran into issues downstairs where a Vizio wouldn't accept HDR but a Sony did just fine. Don't want to mess with cross shipping Epson if it fails out of the box.
Thanks!


----------



## shepdog

Try hitting the pattern button and make sure everything is aligned


----------



## TheBrandon

Played around with my buddies 5040 today and congrats to all owners. Very impressed. We tried about everything. 4k through Phillips, PS4 with enhancements and with out, multiple resolutions on PC games like Crisis in 4k. I think the HDR is a major let down but without this it has a stunning picture. I game on a Sony 40ES and while the input lag is definitely lower, the 5040 is fine. I mainly play shooters requiring fast twitch. We tested BF1. My goodness the textures on the ground with the 4k enhancements. For those excited about the Neo's sweet spot being 1440p upscaled to 4k we tested Crisis at 1440p and it was fantastic (tested at 4k as well). Input lag was a non issue. I realize I am not an owner (yet, we'll see after Cedia) I did want to congratulate everyone on their amazing device. I've auditioned other e-shift using projectors I won't go into since this thread was primarily created due to too much talking about other units but I did want to add this is a great device compared to those. Last thing, my gosh this projector is HUGE!


----------



## shepdog

TheBrandon said:


> ..........I think the HDR is a major let down but without this it has a stunning picture.........




So far I totally agree. 

I don't like the HDR engaged. 

I don't have a blue ray player so I've yet to get a true HDR stream, but the streams I've tried on Netflix just don't look right. 

Maybe it's because the streams I see are rec709 sdr streams. I don't know. The Too dark and red. 

Having said that 4k shows are just stunning. I leave the HDR on automatic and just enjoy the picture. I have a 1.1 manual pull down screen and the picture is just amazing.


----------



## WynsWrld98

TheBrandon said:


> Played around with my buddies 5040 today and congrats to all owners. I think the HDR is a major let down but without this it has a stunning picture.


Can you please elaborate on what you saw with HDR on the 5040? What disc? were you in HDR1? what lamp power? what picture mode? Can you talk about what you mean by it's a let down? How do you compare what you saw in HDR to what it looks like without HDR (e.g., 1080p Bluray of same title)?

I'm reading comments about people not particularly liking HDR on the 5040/6040 but few details.

Thanks.


----------



## shepdog

Deleted


----------



## TheBrandon

WynsWrld98 said:


> Can you please elaborate on what you saw with HDR on the 5040? What disc? were you in HDR1? what lamp power? what picture mode? Can you talk about what you mean by it's a let down? How do you compare what you saw in HDR to what it looks like without HDR (e.g., 1080p Bluray of same title)?
> 
> I'm reading comments about people not particularly liking HDR on the 5040/6040 but few details.
> 
> Thanks.


HDR just kills the picture IMO. It could be that more calibration needed to be done but we tested all of modes, which I can't believe how many options it has. It just dimmed the picture horribly. Please understand nothing is perfect but my thoughts are unless someone finds a way to brighten the pic it's just not ideal, there was 1 HDR option that was acceptable but I'd be reluctant to use it. Main testing on this was Mad Max UHD. 

I can't believe the detail or rather clarity it adds using enhancement to PS4 games. Also, I did not expect the colors to pop like they do. Blacks were outstanding. I realize there is benchmark units out there but good gosh Epson did it under $3,000. I can easily see this projector being the go to for outstanding picture quality, great gaming until perhaps native 4K is in full swing at a more reasonable price.


----------



## n4xxr76

aaranddeeman said:


> Probably panel alignment is required.




Thanks. I'll give that a try tonight and see if it works. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## n4xxr76

n4xxr76 said:


> Thanks. I'll give that a try tonight and see if it works.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Was going to calibrate tonight anyway. I'll do that first. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shepdog

WynsWrld98 said:


> Can you please elaborate on what you saw with HDR on the 5040? What disc? were you in HDR1? what lamp power? what picture mode? Can you talk about what you mean by it's a let down? How do you compare what you saw in HDR to what it looks like without HDR (e.g., 1080p Bluray of same title)?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm reading comments about people not particularly liking HDR on the 5040/6040 but few details.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.




I do not own a blue ray player I've only streamed 4K content. 

In all modes HDR is too dark regardless of Eco, medium or high. 

Doesn't matter if it's bright cinema or digital cinema

Hdr1 is the best. Hdr2 and HDR3 are useless at this point in time. 

Again having said that the 4K on this is amazing. 
There is no comparison between 4K and regular 1080p. Very noticeable on 120" screen. 4K enhancement of 1080p is also very good but there is a clear delineation between 4K and everything else. 


Maybe the HDR will improve once more players are available that will pass it. 

I think based on what everyone is saying is it is just lacking in light output.


----------



## talon95

No it's just lacking in contrast. The HDR modes are trying to slice the pie too thin.


----------



## bakihanna

Difference between HDR 1-4, trust me phone makes pictures brighter than they really are.All taken on bright Cinema mode on a galaxy s7, picture contrast and brightness calibrated with Disney WOW until we get good settings. Will try more movies and be posting pictures later.


----------



## bakihanna

Here's a couple of more from The last witch hunter this time. Movies were played on the philips 4k player.


----------



## Ronman79

Looking good, @bakihanna!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Wow, that does look good.


----------



## bakihanna

Here is a few on the cable box, again all on bright cinema.


----------



## bakihanna

Star trek UHD P2 mode, on bright cinema mode.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Snoogleheimer said:


> Hey guys, please help me understand. I will be getting a 2.31:1 screen. Now, the way I understand it, when I go back and forth from a 2.31:1 movie and back to 16:9 cable TV, with the 5030ub, I will need to manually readjust the picture each time to fit the screen, and, with the 5040ub, it will remember each setting so I can immediately change from 2.31:1 to 16:9 with the remote. Do I understand this correctly?


Anyone? Please? I need to understand this before I pull the trigger.


----------



## imapfsr

Snoogleheimer said:


> Anyone? Please? I need to understand this before I pull the trigger.


You are correct. There are even two buttons on the remote that let you access two of the 10 preset lens settings. I can't wait for that feature.


----------



## bakihanna

last pictures, since am sure ya getting tired of me posting them. Same settings as previous Bright Cinema,all taken on the ps4.


----------



## imapfsr

Please Epson Canada, release this to Canadians now and take my money already!


----------



## imapfsr

bakihanna said:


> last pictures, since am sure ya getting tired of me posting them. Same settings as previous Bright Cinema,all taken on the ps4.


Appreciate everyone one of them....just makes me jealous and wish I could get one but they are great pics and confirm that I must have one.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

imapfsr said:


> You are correct. There are even two buttons on the remote that let you access two of the 10 preset lens settings. I can't wait for that feature.


Oh boy, that's great. Time to order this bad boy. :smile:


----------



## Snoogleheimer

bakihanna said:


> last pictures, since am sure ya getting tired of me posting them. Same settings as previous Bright Cinema,all taken on the ps4.


Wow, the resolution on that video game is outstanding.


----------



## flyinmunky99

bakihanna said:


> last pictures, since am sure ya getting tired of me posting them. Same settings as previous Bright Cinema,all taken on the ps4.


Thanks for the Images. If possible can you take some more PS4 game comparisons like you have done but with 4k off then 4k set to 3.

I feel 4 looks great but a bit harsh/hard. Thinking 3 might be the sweet spot. Also can you confirm the input lag playing at this setting feels ok?

Cheers! Thanks again for great images.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

bakihanna said:


> Difference between HDR 1-4, trust me phone makes pictures brighter than they really are.All taken on bright Cinema mode on a galaxy s7, picture contrast and brightness calibrated with Disney WOW until we get good settings. Will try more movies and be posting pictures later.




fantastic set of pics, thanks for sharing. So what is your view of the HDR feature ? Also, do u feel more lag when gaming with 4k enhancement enabled ?


----------



## Kelvin1000

Samsung K8500 playing 4K without HDR
Epson 5040 not calibrated
Bright Cinema mode with no adjustments
Living room with some ambient light
Photos taken with an iPhone 6 Plus


----------



## bakihanna

flyinmunky99 said:


> Thanks for the Images. If possible can you take some more PS4 game comparisons like you have done but with 4k off then 4k set to 3.
> 
> I feel 4 looks great but a bit harsh/hard. Thinking 3 might be the sweet spot. Also can you confirm the input lag playing at this setting feels ok?
> 
> Cheers! Thanks again for great images.


Here you go, I have added preset 4 & 5 so you can see the difference between those 3.


----------



## flyinmunky99

bakihanna said:


> Here you go, I have added preset 4 & 5 so you can see the difference between those 3.


Cheers. Il see what I prefer when I get it. Got a feeling anything 4 or above will look like sharpness is turned up to high. Think 3 maybe 2 will be sweet point for me.


----------



## Bumper

*RS232 command table*

Currently I own a Panasonic PT-AT6000 and never looked @ Epson because it didn't have Lens Memory. My home theater is fully automated and Lens memory is often used. My PC detects the aspect of a movie and scales my screen accordingly as well as controls the projector to set the corresponding Lens position (focus, zoom and vertical shift).
Now Epson finally automated this feature I am very interested in the 5040 but need the rs232 command table to see if all functions can also be controlled through rs232.


1. Does anybody point me in the direction to where I can find the rs232 docs (it is not in the owners manual).


2. While we are at it; is there somebody that could write about the comparison from the panny to the epson?


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Wow, that tiger image is great. Especially for a projector. Can't wait to get mine.


----------



## bakihanna

ana_moo_ana said:


> fantastic set of pics, thanks for sharing. So what is your view of the HDR feature ? Also, do u feel more lag when gaming with 4k enhancement enabled ?


HDR is good on UHD but that's just my opinion, and I believe is because the UHD are made to process HDR. If you try to turn that on for something that is not supported it looks horrible, I have attached some pictures so you can see the difference but of course my phone crappy camera won't give you much detail to compare correctly. Now lag in not an issue with or without 4k enhancement on, this PJ has great input lag.


----------



## cdnmiggy

imapfsr said:


> Please Epson Canada, release this to Canadians now and take my money already!


Prepared to be dissappointed. Pricing for the 5040 has been quoted to be anything from $4399 on sale at eastporters to my local guy at $5200. In bc you are closer to the border so you can pop over and buy below $3k us.


----------



## flyinmunky99

bakihanna said:


> HDR is good on UHD but that's just my opinion, and I believe is because the UHD are made to process HDR. If you try to turn that on for something that is not supported it looks horrible, I have attached some pictures so you can see the difference but of course my phone crappy camera won't give you much detail to compare correctly. Now lag in not an issue with or without 4k enhancement on, this PJ has great input lag.


Interesting its like if you combine 1080p version with UHD with no HDR = UHD HDR.

The images colour wise are so different I don't know which I prefer or what is truly the films original colour intent.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

cdnmiggy said:


> Prepared to be dissappointed. Pricing for the 5040 has been quoted to be anything from $4399 on sale at eastporters to my local guy at $5200. In bc you are closer to the border so you can pop over and buy below $3k us.


Strange. Epson rapes Canadians/JVC rapes Americans (the RS500 lists for $7000.00 here). ?


----------



## cnorth12

This is what the Xbox One S auto detects about the 5040UB. It also does not engage the HDR on the projector either even though it says it can do HDR? Firmware is way over due to fix this stuff!


----------



## ana_moo_ana

bakihanna said:


> HDR is good on UHD but that's just my opinion, and I believe is because the UHD are made to process HDR. If you try to turn that on for something that is not supported it looks horrible, I have attached some pictures so you can see the difference but of course my phone crappy camera won't give you much detail to compare correctly. Now lag in not an issue with or without 4k enhancement on, this PJ has great input lag.




great! thanks for the feedback. Mine should be here next week along with philips UHD player. Cant wait


----------



## flyinmunky99

Any 3D impressions? This will be my first time trying 3D at home. Interested to know how people are finding cross talk after letting it warm up for 20mins.


----------



## WynsWrld98

flyinmunky99 said:


> Any 3D impressions? This will be my first time trying 3D at home. Interested to know how people are finding cross talk after letting it warm up for 20mins.


There is a discussion going on about this with zombie10k (who is a 3D fanatic) today at http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...c-dla-rs400-x550-x5000-owner-s-thread-87.html I'm curious about this as well, currently have an Epson 5030 looking at the 5040 and JVC RS400. There is occasional crosstalk on the 5030's 3D, not sure if it differs on the 5040. I do like how bright the 3D is on the 5030 vs. some other projectors I've seen that are dim.


----------



## jayselle

Snoogleheimer said:


> Anyone? Please? I need to understand this before I pull the trigger.




Absolutely the 5040 is going to be a better for you than the 5030. The motorized lens memory will make switching from 16:9 to 2.35:1 as easy as a button push. Assuming the projector is mounted within the zoom and shift range for both options.

Years ago we had to use anamorphic lenses that cost a fortune.

I'll add that motorized lenses in general are amazing time savers. Getting on a step ladder and carefully moving knobs and levers; then getting off and evaluating all corners of the screen; then repeating till perfect. That's over.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sunnyvali

The 4K UHD is absolutely stunning to my eyes. Sometimes I can't distinguish between my 70" LED TV or a projector. However, the HDR is just not ready for prime time on a projector like Epson 5040. Probably is true for any projector at this time. 

I think in a dedicated home theater for movie watching and projector set to HDR1 and in bright cinema mode, some will be totally satisfied, but not me. My watching habit requires changing sources and unless all content is delivered in HDR, it is too much to change settings back and forth - my kids won't be able to make such changes. 

I also think the type of screen and throw distance will also make a difference. Mine is not at the optimum distance and I need to buy an ALR screen and then to objectively review this projector that it deserves.


----------



## shepdog

sunnyvali said:


> The 4K UHD is absolutely stunning to my eyes. Sometimes I can't distinguish between my 70" LED TV or a projector. However, the HDR is just not ready for prime time on a projector like Epson 5040. Probably is true for any projector at this time.
> 
> 
> 
> I think in a dedicated home theater for movie watching and projector set to HDR1 and in bright cinema mode, some will be totally satisfied, but not me. My watching habit requires changing sources and unless all content is delivered in HDR, it is too much to change settings back and forth - my kids won't be able to make such changes.
> 
> 
> 
> I also think the type of screen and throw distance will also make a difference. Mine is not at the optimum distance and I need to buy an ALR screen and then to objectively review this projector that it deserves.




Totally agree


----------



## cdelena

royboy365 said:


> Use a remote extender.


Thanks, a cheap effective fix...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018VKBGVC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## thrang

Anyone know if the 5040 is IP controllable and the port number?

And a protocol doc?

Thanks


----------



## Ronman79

bakihanna said:


> HDR is good on UHD but that's just my opinion, and I believe is because the UHD are made to process HDR. If you try to turn that on for something that is not supported it looks horrible, I have attached some pictures so you can see the difference but of course my phone crappy camera won't give you much detail to compare correctly. Now lag in not an issue with or without 4k enhancement on, this PJ has great input lag.


Just from my tablet screen, UHD with HDR looks like a clear winner. Regular 1080, second. Thanks for the pics! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## n4xxr76

aaranddeeman said:


> Probably panel alignment is required.




Doesn't look like the panel alignment fixed the issue. Here are some pics of it below. You'll see it in the upper right of the screen. I'm hoping I can fix this without shipping back to Epson...


----------



## n4xxr76

n4xxr76 said:


> Doesn't look like the panel alignment fixed the issue. Here are some pics of it below. You'll see it in the upper right of the screen. I'm hoping I can fix this without shipping back to Epson...




Forgot to add the pics...











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

n4xxr76 said:


> Doesn't look like the panel alignment fixed the issue. Here are some pics of it below. You'll see it in the upper right of the screen. I'm hoping I can fix this without shipping back to Epson...


That is not looking good.
If you are still in return window, should exchange.


----------



## n4xxr76

aaranddeeman said:


> That is not looking good.
> 
> If you are still in return window, should exchange.




That's what I was afraid of. Outside of that problem, I'm very pleased with its performance. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## imapfsr

cnorth12 said:


> This is what the Xbox One S auto detects about the 5040UB. It also does not engage the HDR on the projector either even though it says it can do HDR? Firmware is way over due to fix this stuff!


That sucks considering I purchased the One S specifically as a 4k bluray.....knew it was too good to be true.


----------



## Kelvin1000

Samsung K8500 playing 4K without HDR
Epson 5040 not calibrated
Bright Cinema mode with no adjustments
Living room with some ambient light
Photos taken with an iPhone 6 Plus


----------



## canillo

bakihanna said:


> last pictures, since am sure ya getting tired of me posting them. Same settings as previous Bright Cinema,all taken on the ps4.


what are your settings? is it just bright cinema factory..did you play with any of the setting?? white screen?


----------



## mase1981

Anyone knows when can we start ordering the 6040ub ?


----------



## bakihanna

I have 2 settings, one cinema mode for blu rays, and UHD in bright cinema which am still messing around with since there's no UHD calibration discs. Problem with UHD and HDR is it gets really dark so hard to calibrate. Below is the settings am using according to Disney wow and a picture of what final product looks like, again pictures are crap cause they're taken with phone s7.


----------



## Viche

bakihanna said:


> I have 2 settings, one cinema mode for blu rays, and UHD in bright cinema which am still messing around with since there's no UHD calibration discs. Problem with UHD and HDR is it gets really dark so hard to calibrate. Below is the settings am using according to Disney wow and a picture of what final product looks like, again pictures are crap cause they're taken with phone s7.


Those pics look like they have great contrast and color, but they are bordering on too dark. Might just be your camera or my dsplay. How does it lool in person? Is shadow detail crushed? How does it look when you switch to bright cinema for the same movies?


----------



## Viche

jayselle said:


> Absolutely the 5040 is going to be a better for you than the 5030. The motorized lens memory will make switching from 16:9 to 2.35:1 as easy as a button push. Assuming the projector is mounted within the zoom and shift range for both options.
> 
> Years ago we had to use anamorphic lenses that cost a fortune.
> 
> I'll add that motorized lenses in general are amazing time savers. Getting on a step ladder and carefully moving knobs and levers; then getting off and evaluating all corners of the screen; then repeating till perfect. That's over.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 How long would that process take on the 5030 if the projector were easily within reach? Still a huge pain?


----------



## WynsWrld98

Viche said:


> How long would that process take on the 5030 if the projector were easily within reach? Still a huge pain?


I do it all the time with my 5030 to watch a 2.4:1 movie, takes me 3 minutes including changing DIY masking bars, then about the same to switch back to 16:9. I can reach my projector's vertical shift control due to a fairly low ceiling so no chair or ladder needed.


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

cnorth12 said:


> This is what the Xbox One S auto detects about the 5040UB. It also does not engage the HDR on the projector either even though it says it can do HDR? Firmware is way over due to fix this stuff!


You can't activate 10-bit at 4K / 60 using RGB due to HDMI 2.0a bandwidth limitations. Perhaps in order for Xbox One S to detect the 5040 as HDR capable you could try to switch the projector into YCbCr 422 or 420 mode at the projector end. Or maybe turn the Xbox One S into 10-bit 422 / 420 YCbCr mode (aka Deep Colour)


----------



## bakihanna

Well my basement black and the picture perfect in person, the problem with the phone is it trys to add light when is too dark and trys to darkened the picture when is bright it drives me crazy cause i can't take a pic forth a crap lol. Again based on Disney Wow disc contrast and brightness are set to the optimal settings, along with hue and colors.


----------



## hnupe

Help Please

I am upgrading from my 5030UB to 5040UB. I need suggestions on the following:

4K player Choice - Note: I have Dolby Atmos setup already
1) Samsung or
2) Phillips 

Cable for 4K playing(need 35ft at least)
1) 35ft Monster black plantium - Crazy price of $200
2) Mono cable???? Not sure what kind
3) Any other options?????


----------



## Raffy87

hnupe said:


> Help Please
> 
> I am upgrading from my 5030UB to 5040UB. I need suggestions on the following:
> 
> 4K player Choice - Note: I have Dolby Atmos setup already
> 1) Samsung or
> 2) Phillips
> 
> Cable for 4K playing(need 35ft at least)
> 1) 35ft Monster black plantium - Crazy price of $200
> 2) Mono cable???? Not sure what kind
> 3) Any other options?????


I have both UHD Players currently... The Phillips is playing nicer with my 5040 right now but I'm hopeful Samsung (or Epson) will come out with a firmware update to resolve the issue soon. I'm getting a great picture from both players though. I haven't been able to control either via IP at this point. From what I can determine, the Samsung will never be able to be IP controlled if that's something you're interested in.

This is the cable I'm using without issue. Can't say how it will work at 35 feet, but I'm using it for a 30' run, and as I said, no issue.
http://www.monoprice.com/category/cables/hdmi-cables/cabernet-series-hdmi-cables


----------



## DanGraney

While I am waiting for some different calibrations to test out, straight out of the box "Natural" looks really good... or am I crazy?


----------



## Viche

Raffy87 said:


> I have both UHD Players currently... The Phillips is playing nicer with my 5040 right now but I'm hopeful Samsung (or Epson) will come out with a firmware update to resolve the issue soon. I'm getting a great picture from both players though. I haven't been able to control either via IP at this point. From what I can determine, the Samsung will never be able to be IP controlled if that's something you're interested in.
> 
> This is the cable I'm using without issue. Can't say how it will work at 35 feet, but I'm using it for a 30' run, and as I said, no issue.
> http://www.monoprice.com/category/cables/hdmi-cables/cabernet-series-hdmi-cables


What exactly do they mean by "active cable?"


----------



## WynsWrld98

Raffy87 said:


> I have both UHD Players currently... The Phillips is playing nicer with my 5040 right now but I'm hopeful Samsung (or Epson) will come out with a firmware update to resolve the issue soon. I'm getting a great picture from both players though. I haven't been able to control either via IP at this point. From what I can determine, the Samsung will never be able to be IP controlled if that's something you're interested in.
> 
> This is the cable I'm using without issue. Can't say how it will work at 35 feet, but I'm using it for a 30' run, and as I said, no issue.
> http://www.monoprice.com/category/cables/hdmi-cables/cabernet-series-hdmi-cables


You're getting HDR just fine with the Panny/Epson combo with the cable you mention?


----------



## shepdog

DanGraney said:


> While I am waiting for some different calibrations to test out, straight out of the box "Natural" looks really good... or am I crazy?




Nope


----------



## Raffy87

Viche said:


> What exactly do they mean by "active cable?"


From their website... "More reliable signal transmissions to greater distances using the built-in active signal processing IC chip". 



WynsWrld98 said:


> You're getting HDR just fine with the Panny/Epson combo with the cable you mention?


I assume your referring to the Phillips. I'm getting HDR from the Phillips. As others have posted, it can be a dark image though. I've run HDR in Bright Cinema mode; I think the picture still looks great. The only movie in 4K HDR I've played around with the settings on is San Andreas.


----------



## Mike Garrett

shepdog said:


> So far I totally agree.
> 
> I don't like the HDR engaged.
> 
> I don't have a blue ray player so I've yet to get a true HDR stream, but the streams I've tried on Netflix just don't look right.
> 
> Maybe it's because the streams I see are rec709 sdr streams. I don't know. The Too dark and red.
> 
> Having said that 4k shows are just stunning. I leave the HDR on automatic and just enjoy the picture. I have a 1.1 manual pull down screen and the picture is just amazing.


You can't use a 4K preset on any projector with an SDR Rec 709 source and get it to look right. That is a wrong application.


----------



## sunnyvali

Mike Garrett said:


> You can't use a 4K preset on any projector with an SDR Rec 709 source and get it to look right. That is a wrong application.


Agree. I learned the hard way. I have left it on auto till I get familiar with all the settings and combinations.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Raffy87 said:


> From their website... "More reliable signal transmissions to greater distances using the built-in active signal processing IC chip".
> 
> 
> I assume your referring to the Phillips. I'm getting HDR from the Phillips. As others have posted, it can be a dark image though. I've run HDR in Bright Cinema mode; I think the picture still looks great. The only movie in 4K HDR I've played around with the settings on is San Andreas.


Yes, meant Phillips, said Panny. So San Andreas in bright cinema mode HDR looks great? I didn't quite follow your phrasing.


----------



## Raffy87

WynsWrld98 said:


> Yes, meant Phillips, said Panny. So San Andreas in bright cinema mode HDR looks great? I didn't quite follow your phrasing.


I think it looks great. Out of the Phillips I'm getting 4K at 12bit 4:2:2 with BT.2020 HDR 2 in Bright Cinema mode. Now, I'm watching it in a dark room as I can control the ambient light and I have no windows. If I move to HDR 1, it does get brighter but I don't think HDR 2 in my setting is too dark.


----------



## rupedogg24

Raffy87 said:


> I think it looks great. Out of the Phillips I'm getting 4K at 12bit 4:2:2 with BT.2020 HDR 2 in Bright Cinema mode. Now, I'm watching it in a dark room as I can control the ambient light and I have no windows. If I move to HDR 1, it does get brighter but I don't think HDR 2 in my setting is too dark.


Are you loving the Phillips? I'm getting my Espon 5040 calibrated in 2 weeks by Gregg Loewen and want to have a true 4k source for viewing. I'm waiting on the PS4 Neo announcement tomorrow but i don't think it will be out in Sept or before Gregg arrives. I'm thinking about hopping on the Phillips train. Would you recommend it?


----------



## mase1981

rupedogg24 said:


> I'm getting my Espon 5040 calibrated in 2 weeks by Gregg Loewen


Hey Sir, can you elaborate on that? Who is Gregg and how do you get your PJ calibrated professionally? 
i am still waiting to be able to order the 6040UB, but was thinking about this time around to have it professionally calibrated.... and have no idea how to go at it lol


----------



## shepdog

Mike Garrett said:


> You can't use a 4K preset on any projector with an SDR Rec 709 source and get it to look right. That is a wrong application.




Thank sir that makes sense.


----------



## Raffy87

rupedogg24 said:


> Raffy87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think it looks great. Out of the Phillips I'm getting 4K at 12bit 4:2:2 with BT.2020 HDR 2 in Bright Cinema mode. Now, I'm watching it in a dark room as I can control the ambient light and I have no windows. If I move to HDR 1, it does get brighter but I don't think HDR 2 in my setting is too dark.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you loving the Phillips? I'm getting my Espon 5040 calibrated in 2 weeks by Gregg Loewen and want to have a true 4k source for viewing. I'm waiting on the PS4 Neo announcement tomorrow but i don't think it will be out in Sept or before Gregg arrives. I'm thinking about hopping on the Phillips train. Would you recommend it?
Click to expand...

At this point I'd recommend it; there's only a few UHD players out now. Be curious what Oppo ultimately comes out with. The Phillips plays nice with the 5040, the remote is bigger and has a better range than the Samsung remote and the user interface seems a bit faster. It does seem to take a little longer once you press power before the tray opens though I haven't used any of the apps on either player; I looks like the Samsung has more. I use a Roku 4 for streaming apps. 

Regarding calibration, one of the Epson dealers I spoke with prior to receiving my 5040 stated a professional calibration on these projectors wasn't going to make a big difference. Let us know what you think after your is calibrated please.


----------



## ndabunka

Raffy87 said:


> Regarding calibration, one of the Epson dealers I spoke with prior to receiving my 5040 stated a professional calibration on these projectors wasn't going to make a big difference. Let us know what you think after your is calibrated please.


One of the few "selling points" of the 6040ub over the 5040ub is that it is the professional version costing $1K more and it comes with an extra bulb and is "professionally calibrated". If it does little, then Epson is advertising "little" as well, right?

PS - I went in search of that description but did not find the "shipping pre-calibrated" statement (at least not in any of the links I saved) so I may have been in error. Here is the statement I found...
Besides coming in a black case {Sic} "the 6040UB will come with a ceiling mount and a spare lamp, cable cover, and an extra year of warranty and replacement program, for $3999"


----------



## Raffy87

I'm not saying it doesn't need to be calibrated; only sharing my experience with a local Epson dealer. As the dealer does professional calibrations, I was a bit surprised he didn't try and sell me on it. Especially since I'm the one who mentioned it. His opinion was a professional calibration was not worth the $$$ as it wouldn't make a big difference compared to what you or I could do with a good test disk. Now, if someone here has it calibrated professionally and see's a difference, I'll definitely look into it. 

Not trying to be an ass here, but whether you find the statement or not, what exactly does 'shipping pre-calibrated' mean? I mean, couldn't I say my 5040 was pre-calibrated? I didn't have to do any calibrating before watching a movie.


----------



## astrofool

I never understood calibrating a projector when the bulb is always getting dimmer after each use. Do you calibate it at 100 hours then at 200 do it again and so on.


----------



## ndabunka

Raffy87 said:


> I'm not saying it doesn't need to be calibrated; only sharing my experience with a local Epson dealer. As the dealer does professional calibrations, I was a bit surprised he didn't try and sell me on it. Especially since I'm the one who mentioned it. His opinion was a professional calibration was not worth the $$$ as it wouldn't make a big difference compared to what you or I could do with a good test disk. Now, if someone here has it calibrated professionally and see's a difference, I'll definitely look into it.
> 
> Not trying to be an ass here, but whether you find the statement or not, what exactly does 'shipping pre-calibrated' mean? I mean, couldn't I say my 5040 was pre-calibrated? I didn't have to do any calibrating before watching a movie.


I think the reality is that a consumer spending "only" $3K is not likely to then spend another $800 on an expert to calibrate it. The HT specialist probably realize that they "sweet spot" for calibrations is the guy who just plunked down $12K on a JVC or true 4K Sony. If I was the one dropping that kind of cash I would EXPECT the dealer to calibrate it when he delivered it to the house or soon thereafter as an "incentive" for buying it from him.

On the other hand, more and more of these ARE coming to the masses with VERY good configurations already on them. The new Sony HW45ES is an excellent example of that. Sony has gotten the production and staging so good on that one that they show up on the doorstep nearly perfect right out of the box. It sounds like your dealer is saying that is also the case now with the 5040. If it is, that is great news for all of us who have ordered one as it really was not the case with the 5030s they previously shipped. runs off to look for the article again...


----------



## flyinmunky99

Is anyone thinking of getting a HD fury to remove HDR but keep the WCG? Would this mean I could use any picture setting, get WCG and just lose HDR?


----------



## ndabunka

Raffy87 said:


> ...Not trying to be an ass here, but whether you find the statement or not, what exactly does 'shipping pre-calibrated' mean? I mean, couldn't I say my 5040 was pre-calibrated? I didn't have to do any calibrating before watching a movie.


Not certain if I mis-spoke or if may just be semantics. I read the part in bold below to state that it....comes from the factory ISF Certified. The "lockable memory" seems more like a marketing term than any REAL, PHYSICAL feature as there ARE programmable buttons on the remote that...drum roll please... allow you to store your settings in memory so.... I mean who gives a rats-arse if those memory storage areas are....."lockable"?

Why bother stating that it is ISF certified if a ISF professional could, in theory, ISF certify your 5040ub that he comes to your home to calibrate. Here is the actual quote out of this review on the 5040ub/6040ub...
"Epson’s new lineup is led by the Pro Cinema 6040UB ($3,999), a model aimed at the professional installation market, that comes with a ceiling mount, spare lamp, and an extended warranty. *It’s also ISF certified*, with lockable memories that video calibration pros can use to store their adjustments".

Read more at http://www.soundandvision.com/conte...b-3d-dlp-projector-review#i7WP5Lbhq9GkJx1h.99


----------



## rupedogg24

mase1981 said:


> Hey Sir, can you elaborate on that? Who is Gregg and how do you get your PJ calibrated professionally?
> i am still waiting to be able to order the 6040UB, but was thinking about this time around to have it professionally calibrated.... and have no idea how to go at it lol


Greg Loewin is an ISF certified trainer/teacher and calibration expert. I paid $3k for this thing I want it dialed in when it comes to color, blacks, greyscale, etc. What's a few more $$$?

http://lionav.com/new/gregg-loewen/

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

rupedogg24 said:


> ...What's a few more $$$?


A few more $'s is one thing. A few more $$$'s could be quiet another if it's anything like Zagat's use of the $$$ symbols... 

PS - Greg looks to have a solid rep & looks to be well worth whatever he charges for his services so I am not trying to nail down what he charges or anything


----------



## jsil

Hi rupedogg24,

I had my TV and audio done once and to me it was worth every penny YMMV. You will enjoy what Greg Loewin does to that projector.


----------



## thrang

Natural is by far the best out of box settings.

Set at 6500k, and tweaking the projectors RGB gain controls with a 90% white target using a Lumagen Pro, ChromaPure 3.08, and a Display Pro III meter, delta E's for primary, secondaries, sense memory colors, and greyscale were all under 2, many under 1 pre calibration....pretty amazing for a $3k projector...


----------



## rupedogg24

Ok, so I've had the 5040ub for a few weeks now and was finally able to run some 4k BD's last night. I went to BB and picked up the Philips Bluray player. I played Angry Birds 4k, Batman v. Superman, Youtube 4k, as well as some Netflix 4k content. 

Couple thoughts:
- The picture from this projector is absolutely amazing. I ran it in Bright Cinema mode and was blown away. Even the quality of the Youtube 4k videos were amazing. 

- I'm not loving HDR just yet. Maybe it needs tweaking? Maybe I haven't spent much time with it? I just haven't seen the benefits of it yet. So I'll put it as TBD for now. 

- 4k Content from Netflix is legit. The best program in terms of super bright colors and detailed (for me) was Last Chance U. The picture popped off my screen, crisp and clear. 

- The Philips player is fantastic. But I've decided to wait for the PS4 Neo, get the Onkyo RZ1100 (upscale all 1080p content to 4k), and return the Philips. I'm assuming that the PS4 Neo will have support of more apps than the Philips player. I have a feeling that the Philips BDP is just a short term fix for most. 

- Color, sharpness, detail, etc. all seem spot on with the 4K content I watched. So much so that I canceled my calibration appointment. Last Chance U and Angry Birds impressed me so much that I couldn't see how paying extra would make the picture any better than what I was seeing. Seriously. It looked that good to me. 

For those that say the competing projector, which I will not speak of by name , has better contrast, blacks, etc. I don't know how it could be better than what I saw last night. Maybe it's my environment? Maybe it's the content? And for gamers - Wow!! I've played Bloodborne, Uncharted 4, Dark Souls, and the Battlefield Beta. ALL looked beautiful on the Epson. 

I'm super happy with my purchase, and I'm sure anyone that is waiting to get theirs will too.


----------



## lunnar

Anyone tried some 4k content width HDR out of an HTPC yet? just curious since I am seriously eyeballing the 5040. As my setup is ready to run 4k content from my PC for games and movies(GTX 1070 video card, MRX 1120 receiver, both HDMI 2.0a ready) .


----------



## RiZLa_7

rupedogg24 said:


> Ok, so I've had the 5040ub for a few weeks now and was finally able to run some 4k BD's last night. I went to BB and picked up the Philips Bluray player. I played Angry Birds 4k, Batman v. Superman, Youtube 4k, as well as some Netflix 4k content.
> 
> Couple thoughts:
> - The picture from this projector is absolutely amazing. I ran it in Bright Cinema mode and was blown away. Even the quality of the Youtube 4k videos were amazing.
> 
> - I'm not loving HDR just yet. Maybe it needs tweaking? Maybe I haven't spent much time with it? I just haven't seen the benefits of it yet. So I'll put it as TBD for now.
> 
> - 4k Content from Netflix is legit. The best program in terms of super bright colors and detailed (for me) was Last Chance U. The picture popped off my screen, crisp and clear.
> 
> - The Philips player is fantastic. But I've decided to wait for the PS4 Neo, get the Onkyo RZ1100 (upscale all 1080p content to 4k), and return the Philips. I'm assuming that the PS4 Neo will have support of more apps than the Philips player. I have a feeling that the Philips BDP is just a short term fix for most.
> 
> - Color, sharpness, detail, etc. all seem spot on with the 4K content I watched. So much so that I canceled my calibration appointment. Last Chance U and Angry Birds impressed me so much that I couldn't see how paying extra would make the picture any better than what I was seeing. Seriously. It looked that good to me.
> 
> For those that say the competing projector, which I will not speak of by name , has better contrast, blacks, etc. I don't know how it could be better than what I saw last night. Maybe it's my environment? Maybe it's the content? And for gamers - Wow!! I've played Bloodborne, Uncharted 4, Dark Souls, and the Battlefield Beta. ALL looked beautiful on the Epson.
> 
> I'm super happy with my purchase, and I'm sure anyone that is waiting to get theirs will too.


Sounds like you had a real good "a-haaaaa-a" experience  !

What were your previous projector(s?) and other experiences?
I don´t know what to expect coming from a Sony VPL-VW95ES. 
I have the 5040 in pre order and getting it within about 2 weeks.


----------



## rupedogg24

RiZLa_7 said:


> Sounds like you had a real good "a-haaaaa-a" experience  !
> 
> What were your previous projector(s?) and other experiences?
> I don´t know what to expect coming from a Sony VPL-VW95ES.
> I have the 5040 in pre order and getting it within about 2 weeks.


upgraded from a BenQ W1070. I had (still have) F8500 plasma as my main TV prior to that.


----------



## RiZLa_7

rupedogg24 said:


> upgraded from a BenQ W1070. I had (still have) F8500 plasma as my main TV prior to that.


Ok that is a big step up, but still 
The F8500 plasma is a good unit. 

Can´t wait to get my PJ


----------



## Ronman79

You new owners keep it coming! I'm digging the opinions and pics! I'm anxious to see what's coming from CEDIA, but as of now, I think the Epson is topping the JVC for me. Critical, dark room viewing, by all accounts will go to the JVC. But, I'm getting and seeing such positive reviews from black levels, that I know even in that regard, it's going to be a great pro. Throw in the fact that I'd like to play games on mine (even rarely) and you have what seems to be the front-runner for me.....


----------



## Jasinto

@rupedogg24 

How sharp is the picture compared to benq w1070 and you can explain as well 
as good you explain in earlier post how more differences you see?


Thanks



Saludos


----------



## shepdog

Ronman79 said:


> You new owners keep it coming! I'm digging the opinions and pics! I'm anxious to see what's coming from CEDIA, but as of now, I think the Epson is topping the JVC for me. Critical, dark room viewing, by all accounts will go to the JVC. But, I'm getting and seeing such positive reviews from black levels, that I know even in that regard, it's going to be a great pro. Throw in the fact that I'd like to play games on mine (even rarely) and you have what seems to be the front-runner for me.....




I'm with rupedogg24. I had a scheduled calibration that I've canceled. I'm two weeks in with 36 hours on the 5040 and my jaw still drops. 

I've never owned a projector but my friend has a optima. Unsure the model. It's a nice projector but just no comparison. After watching all the games this weekend he has placed his order. I can't wait to see it at his place because he has 135" screen. 

Several say that 4K is not that big of a deal compared to UHD and I disagree. Maybe on a small screen but on 120" the detail is just amazing. I sit anywhere from 10-15 ft & I don't even have a bd player yet, but the 4K streams from Netflix are really, really good. 

I really can't remember the last time I've been this happy with a purchase.


----------



## WynsWrld98

rupedogg24 said:


> Ok, so I've had the 5040ub for a few weeks now and was finally able to run some 4k BD's last night. I went to BB and picked up the Philips Bluray player. I played Angry Birds 4k, Batman v. Superman, Youtube 4k, as well as some Netflix 4k content.
> 
> Couple thoughts:
> - The picture from this projector is absolutely amazing. I ran it in Bright Cinema mode and was blown away. Even the quality of the Youtube 4k videos were amazing.
> 
> - I'm not loving HDR just yet. Maybe it needs tweaking? Maybe I haven't spent much time with it? I just haven't seen the benefits of it yet. So I'll put it as TBD for now.
> 
> - 4k Content from Netflix is legit. The best program in terms of super bright colors and detailed (for me) was Last Chance U. The picture popped off my screen, crisp and clear.
> 
> - The Philips player is fantastic. But I've decided to wait for the PS4 Neo, get the Onkyo RZ1100 (upscale all 1080p content to 4k), and return the Philips. I'm assuming that the PS4 Neo will have support of more apps than the Philips player. I have a feeling that the Philips BDP is just a short term fix for most.
> 
> - Color, sharpness, detail, etc. all seem spot on with the 4K content I watched. So much so that I canceled my calibration appointment. Last Chance U and Angry Birds impressed me so much that I couldn't see how paying extra would make the picture any better than what I was seeing. Seriously. It looked that good to me.
> 
> For those that say the competing projector, which I will not speak of by name , has better contrast, blacks, etc. I don't know how it could be better than what I saw last night. Maybe it's my environment? Maybe it's the content? And for gamers - Wow!! I've played Bloodborne, Uncharted 4, Dark Souls, and the Battlefield Beta. ALL looked beautiful on the Epson.
> 
> I'm super happy with my purchase, and I'm sure anyone that is waiting to get theirs will too.


Did you try HDR in Bright Cinema with high lamp and HDR1 selected vs default HDR2?


----------



## DanGraney

So the PS4 Neo, now known as the PS4 Pro, has been announced... full specs to come, but PS4 Pro can output 4K and HDR video. And at $399!

Uh-oh, no word on an actual UHD player... that's gonna pop the balloon for me.
Annnnnd confirmed:
https://www.engadget.com/2016/09/07/ps4-pro-uhd-blu-ray/


Okay, back to the Epson... and whatever UHD player I need to pick up now.


----------



## flyinmunky99

DanGraney said:


> So the PS4 Neo, now known as the PS4 Pro, has been announced... full specs to come, but PS4 Pro can output 4K and HDR video. And at $399!
> 
> Uh-oh, no word on an actual UHD player... that's gonna pop the balloon for me.
> Annnnnd confirmed:
> https://www.engadget.com/2016/09/07/ps4-pro-uhd-blu-ray/
> 
> 
> Okay, back to the Epson... and whatever UHD player I need to pick up now.


Cant believe they didn't put a UHD drive in it, I'm gutted. I may be tempted with the xbox one s if they can update it to sort out all the issues.


----------



## Ronman79

DanGraney said:


> So the PS4 Neo, now known as the PS4 Pro, has been announced... full specs to come, but PS4 Pro can output 4K and HDR video. And at $399!
> 
> Uh-oh, no word on an actual UHD player... that's gonna pop the balloon for me.
> Annnnnd confirmed:
> https://www.engadget.com/2016/09/07/ps4-pro-uhd-blu-ray/
> 
> 
> Okay, back to the Epson... and whatever UHD player I need to pick up now.



Well, I'm probably gonna go with an XBOX ONE S (have a PS4), and I'll probably be getting a stand alone from Oppo, Sony or Panasonic. But as far as no UHD drive...I'd think that's gonna pop lots of folks' balloons......


----------



## shepdog

Ronman79 said:


> Well, I'm probably gonna go with an XBOX ONE S (have a PS4), and I'll probably be getting a stand alone from Oppo, Sony or Panasonic. But as far as no UHD drive...I'd think that's gonna pop lots of folks' balloons......




Yep

Oppo it is. I will wait however long it takes for them to get it right


----------



## Viche

@shepdog @rupedogg24

Regarding these great blacks you are both seeing, What type of lighting do you have in your theater? Are either of you using dynamic Iris?


----------



## rupedogg24

Jasinto said:


> @rupedogg24
> 
> How sharp is the picture compared to benq w1070 and you can explain as well
> as good you explain in earlier post how more differences you see?


The Epson is pulling detail out of old blurays that I would never have noticed on the BenQ. Mind you, this projector is in a whole other league than the w1070. Textures pop no matter the color. The scene from Oblivion where Tom Cruise looks down at the fish in the water almost looks 3D it's so detailed and clear.


----------



## rupedogg24

shepdog said:


> I'm with rupedogg24. I had a scheduled calibration that I've canceled. I'm two weeks in with 36 hours on the 5040 and my jaw still drops.
> 
> I've never owned a projector but my friend has a optima. Unsure the model. It's a nice projector but just no comparison. After watching all the games this weekend he has placed his order. I can't wait to see it at his place because he has 135" screen.
> 
> Several say that 4K is not that big of a deal compared to UHD and I disagree. Maybe on a small screen but on 120" the detail is just amazing. I sit anywhere from 10-15 ft & I don't even have a bd player yet, but the 4K streams from Netflix are really, really good.
> 
> I really can't remember the last time I've been this happy with a purchase.


The Philips upscales to 4K and has added new life to all my old blurays. I sit about 12 feet back from 130" screen.


----------



## rupedogg24

WynsWrld98 said:


> Did you try HDR in Bright Cinema with high lamp and HDR1 selected vs default HDR2?


I have not and will try it, but I'm not trying to run it in high lamp just for HDR.


----------



## rupedogg24

Viche said:


> @shepdog
> @rupedogg24
> 
> Regarding these great blacks you are both seeing, What type of lighting do you have in your theater? Are either of you using dynamic Iris?


I do not have a light controlled cave like most. My room is more a theater/family room. it gets dark but I have off-white ceilings and grey walls. frame around the screen is black about 5-6" on each side. Auto iris set to normal.


----------



## WynsWrld98

rupedogg24 said:


> I have not and will try it, but I'm not trying to run it in high lamp just for HDR.


The reason for high lamp mode is I've seen complaints of HDR being too dark on the 5040/6040 even with bright cinema mode so I'm looking for someone to try it with max lumens via HDR1, high lamp and bright cinema.


----------



## shepdog

rupedogg24 said:


> I do not have a light controlled cave like most. My room is more a theater/family room. it gets dark but I have off-white ceilings and grey walls. frame around the screen is black about 5-6" on each side. Auto iris set to normal.




My projector is in my living room. I can control my lighting fairly well but it is never pitch black. 

I have white crown molding. My blinds are white but I have blackout blinds underneath and I have light colored walls. 2-3" frame. Auto iris. 

Usually during the day I watch watch in bright cinema mode with medium power. 

At night I watch cinema mode with medium power.


----------



## ac388

I had the 5040 for a week n about 15hrs. on it. Got a few question n wonder if someone can help me out ...

1) When feeding in 4K material, the 'Frame Interpolation' white out for me, but ok for 1080P material. Is it normal ?
2) When watching 1080P with e-shift, I have to select HIGH on 'Frame Interpolation' , otherwise the panning of fast moving object looks a bit fuzzy. Is it normal ?
3) HDR : It only has Mode 1 to 4, why there is no 5 to 10 ? Does it mean Mode 1 is not equal to HDR1 ? 
4) From previous video clip on an interview with a Dutch Epson salesman, he said the 5040 can output 100-800nits. But UHD bluray discs are 1000-4000nits, is it the reason why the picture is so dark when we select HDR Mode 2 ? To make things right, does it mean the player will have to do the conversion in between, to make the picture right. Its not just Epson, I read the JVC thread n the user also complain insufficient brightness when using HDR too.

Thanks in advance for all input


----------



## ac388

I agree with you guys 100% that this unit bring out the best on most of all our old Bluray discs. With the e-shift conversion to 4K, my jaw is dropping when watching movies like 13 hours, American sniper n Deadpool etc.. However, old movies like 'Gladiators' looks more or less the same, or maybe even more grainy.

Using the 'Natural' mode n adjust the Brightness n Contrast a bit with the WOW Disney disc. Auto Iris in normal n bulb on Medium. Wonder how you folks calibrate this unit ???


----------



## Ellebob

HDR is a problem for any projector except for some 6 figure ones. They just don't have the pixel to pixel brightness to get true HDR, they use algorithms to try and give the HDR effect which is not always that effective, similar to looking at one of the simulated HDR pictures on your computer. On some material it looks pretty good. I can also tell you calibration helps a lot with this, while calibration always helps improve the picture I find it a bigger improvement when calibrating for HDR. I haven't had a chance to calibrate one of the Epson's yet, so this is based off the JVCs.


----------



## mase1981

Still googling but no word.... Wondering when the 6040ub will come out.


----------



## gnolivos

Well after 8 years I finally upgraded my trusty and awesome Sanyo Z2000 with this Epson 5400UB. FANTASTIC PROJECTOR. I spent 6 hours last night quickly calibrating Cinema and Bright Cinema mode, and watching blu-ray (PS3) as well as Cable TV (TWC).

I have a 110" acoustically Transparent 1.0 gain screen in a completely dedicated and blacked out room with only minor reflection from surrounding dark walls. 

My first impressions are very good!

The contrast is exceptional and the black levels are fantastic. I am using the auto iris, and I find that completely dark scenes are detailed and with deep pleasing black levels, and mixed scenes look terrific without 'dull whites'. Your typical credit screens with black background and white scrolling text show very bright white letters with very deep dark background. My old PJ could not achieve this even with dynamic gamma trickery.

The brightness is over the top for a dedicated dark room. I have to use Bright Cinema in eco mode *and* clamp the IRIS down about -8.  In Cinema mode (which is darker) I have it set up to Eco. This means that as the bulb ages I will have plenty of headroom to bump the lamp brightness to compensate.

Projector is louder than my Z2000 (which was probably the quietest 1080p projector ever built), but nothing that I can hear with movie soundtracks over it. It sits about 4 feet over my head.

Motorized lens focus, shift, and zoom are a godsend, and a very high end feature I wasn't expecting even at the $3000 mark. Love the lens cover too.

One bonus for me is that usually I see a moire pattern with AT screens and 1080p projectors that have sharp pixel structure. When displaying 1080p mode it had the structure. however when using the 4K upscale feature the moire was virtually gone (almost impossible to spot). This is a godsend for me.

Remote is very good! Lots of useful buttons there for the tweaker that likes to compare settings.

I did have ONE problem which may or may not be serious. I was switching between Cinema and Bright Cinema and the screen blacked out (like it normally does between switching) but it stayed black. I tried everything but the only way out was to unplug the Projector. Looked like a software issue to me. Anyone else had this?


----------



## flyinmunky99

So can someone confirm the only way to get 4k with WCG without HDR is via a HD fury?


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> I have a 110" acoustically Transparent 1.0 gain screen ...One bonus for me is that usually I see a moire pattern with AT screens and 1080p projectors that have sharp pixel structure. When displaying 1080p mode it had the structure. however when using the 4K upscale feature the moire was virtually gone (almost impossible to spot). This is a godsend for me.


Which AT screen do you have? I am replacing a non-AT with AT & would therefore be interested in knowing which one you used and any challenges with that particular brand. I am considering Seymour XD, Falcon or (as a alast resort if I don't feel up to the DIY update to my current screen), the Draper AT1200.


----------



## trainfan

*Upgrading*

Has anybody upgraded from the Epson 5010 to the 5040 ?

Would be interested if anybody upgraded from the 5010 to the 5030 also.

Wondering what kind of improvement I would get


----------



## gnolivos

ndabunka said:


> Which AT screen do you have? I am replacing a non-AT with AT & would therefore be interested in knowing which one you used and any challenges with that particular brand. I am considering Seymour XD, Falcon or (as a alast resort if I don't feel up to the DIY update to my current screen), the Draper AT1200.




I bought the STR-169110-WAB Silver Ticket 110" Diagonal 16:9 4K Ultra HD Ready HDTV from amazon. But they don't have that fabric anymore apparently!? Maybe look elsewhere. 

Moire was a problem with vey sharp 1080p projectors. Slight defocus helped. 4K projector show little to no moire at all. Msg me so we don't derail his thread. Thx.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> I bought the STR-169110-WAB Silver Ticket 110" Diagonal 16:9 4K Ultra HD Ready HDTV from amazon. But they don't have that fabric anymore apparently!? Maybe look elsewhere.
> 
> Moire was a problem with vey sharp 1080p projectors. Slight defocus helped. 4K projector show little to no moire at all. Msg me so we don't derail his thread. Thx.


Thanks for the quick reply.
Your screen shots look AWESOME!
Also replied separately to your PM


----------



## TheWorkz

Well, after lurking long enough and following this thread, you guys finished selling me on going with the Epson 5040UB over the AE8000 I was originally going to get because of price and the 2.35:1 screen i ordered.

I just ordered a 5040UB!!! AHHH.. I'm going to owe my wife for a while.. Can't wait for it to arrive!!


----------



## shepdog

TheWorkz said:


> Well, after lurking long enough and following this thread, you guys finished selling me on going with the Epson 5040UB over the AE8000 I was originally going to get because of price and the 2.35:1 screen i ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered a 5040UB!!! AHHH.. I'm going to owe my wife for a while.. Can't wait for it to arrive!!




Welcome to the club. You will be very happy.


----------



## gnolivos

Did you guys get a rear plastic cover for this projector, to cover the connectors? It seems there should have been one in my box, but nope...


----------



## Streamline8

My 3d settings are greyed out anyone have an idea why? I wanted to test out the 2d to 3d conversion. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

gnolivos said:


> Did you guys get a rear plastic cover for this projector, to cover the connectors? It seems there should have been one in my box, but nope...


I think I read somewhere that it only comes with the wireless model. With cables connected, you won't be able to fit it anyway will you?


----------



## rupedogg24

These pics are from a 1080p source with the projector doing the grunt work. Basement family room in the evening with light coming through the windows and I was still able to get quality pictures due to the brightness and clarity of this projector. 










































































Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> Well after 8 years I finally upgraded my trusty and awesome Sanyo Z2000 with this Epson 5400UB. FANTASTIC PROJECTOR. I spent 6 hours last night quickly calibrating Cinema and Bright Cinema mode, and watching blu-ray (PS3) as well as Cable TV (TWC).
> 
> I have a 110" acoustically Transparent 1.0 gain screen in a completely dedicated and blacked out room with only minor reflection from surrounding dark walls.
> 
> My first impressions are very good!
> 
> The contrast is exceptional and the black levels are fantastic. I am using the auto iris, and I find that completely dark scenes are detailed and with deep pleasing black levels, and mixed scenes look terrific without 'dull whites'. Your typical credit screens with black background and white scrolling text show very bright white letters with very deep dark background. My old PJ could not achieve this even with dynamic gamma trickery.
> 
> The brightness is over the top for a dedicated dark room. I have to use Bright Cinema in eco mode *and* clamp the IRIS down about -8. In Cinema mode (which is darker) I have it set up to Eco. This means that as the bulb ages I will have plenty of headroom to bump the lamp brightness to compensate.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Projector is louder than my Z2000 (which was probably the quietest 1080p projector ever built), but nothing that I can hear with movie soundtracks over it. It sits about 4 feet over my head.
> 
> Motorized lens focus, shift, and zoom are a godsend, and a very high end feature I wasn't expecting even at the $3000 mark. Love the lens cover too.
> 
> One bonus for me is that usually I see a moire pattern with AT screens and 1080p projectors that have sharp pixel structure. When displaying 1080p mode it had the structure. however when using the 4K upscale feature the moire was virtually gone (almost impossible to spot). This is a godsend for me.
> 
> Remote is very good! Lots of useful buttons there for the tweaker that likes to compare settings.
> 
> I did have ONE problem which may or may not be serious. I was switching between Cinema and Bright Cinema and the screen blacked out (like it normally does between switching) but it stayed black. I tried everything but the only way out was to unplug the Projector. Looked like a software issue to me. Anyone else had this?



Thanks.
I too have the Sanyo PLV Z2000 (along with Acer H9500BD) in my theater.
Good to know the comparison between the two to get a better idea.
I was (and may be still am) a bit not impressed with the CR numbers and was getting pulled to the "dark" side.
But your review is making me re-think for sure.


----------



## gnolivos

aaranddeeman said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I too have the Sanyo PLV Z2000 (along with Acer H9500BD) in my theater.
> 
> Good to know the comparison between the two to get a better idea.
> 
> I was (and may be still am) a bit not impressed with the CR numbers and was getting pulled to the "dark" side.
> 
> But your review is making me re-think for sure.




This unit feels like a much improved version of the z2000 to my eyes. Motion handling is excellent, and the images pop a lot more. And there is definitely perceived additional detail on 1080 content. It really feels subjectively 60% improvement in image quality if I can put it that way. Ha.


----------



## shepdog

NFL OPENER
PlayStation Vue 
Amazon FireTv

iPhone 6+. Some ambient light 


Didn't pause picture because banner took up most of screen. (Still experimenting trying to get blur out of motion shots).


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> This unit feels like a much improved version of the z2000 to my eyes. Motion handling is excellent, and the images pop a lot more. And there is definitely perceived additional detail on 1080 content. It really feels subjectively 60% improvement in image quality if I can put it that way. Ha.


Thanks.
How about the "dark" matter.. I mean black levels. Do them seem ok, much better (compared to Sanyo)?


----------



## gnolivos

Yes definitely better. Grey bars are still visible but are definitely darker. Not too distracting. Blacks levels are very deep, and dark scenes are enjoyable now.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> Yes definitely better. Grey bars are still visible but are definitely darker. Not too distracting. Blacks levels are very deep, and dark scenes are enjoyable now.


Thanks.
Now if only I can demo one of these puppys..


----------



## Ronman79

gnolivos said:


> Well after 8 years I finally upgraded my trusty and awesome Sanyo Z2000 with this Epson 5400UB. FANTASTIC PROJECTOR. I spent 6 hours last night quickly calibrating Cinema and Bright Cinema mode, and watching blu-ray (PS3) as well as Cable TV (TWC).
> 
> I have a 110" acoustically Transparent 1.0 gain screen in a completely dedicated and blacked out room with only minor reflection from surrounding dark walls.
> 
> My first impressions are very good!
> 
> The contrast is exceptional and the black levels are fantastic. I am using the auto iris, and I find that completely dark scenes are detailed and with deep pleasing black levels, and mixed scenes look terrific without 'dull whites'. Your typical credit screens with black background and white scrolling text show very bright white letters with very deep dark background. My old PJ could not achieve this even with dynamic gamma trickery.
> 
> The brightness is over the top for a dedicated dark room. I have to use Bright Cinema in eco mode *and* clamp the IRIS down about -8. In Cinema mode (which is darker) I have it set up to Eco. This means that as the bulb ages I will have plenty of headroom to bump the lamp brightness to compensate.
> 
> Projector is louder than my Z2000 (which was probably the quietest 1080p projector ever built), but nothing that I can hear with movie soundtracks over it. It sits about 4 feet over my head.
> 
> Motorized lens focus, shift, and zoom are a godsend, and a very high end feature I wasn't expecting even at the $3000 mark. Love the lens cover too.
> 
> One bonus for me is that usually I see a moire pattern with AT screens and 1080p projectors that have sharp pixel structure. When displaying 1080p mode it had the structure. however when using the 4K upscale feature the moire was virtually gone (almost impossible to spot). This is a godsend for me.
> 
> Remote is very good! Lots of useful buttons there for the tweaker that likes to compare settings.
> 
> I did have ONE problem which may or may not be serious. I was switching between Cinema and Bright Cinema and the screen blacked out (like it normally does between switching) but it stayed black. I tried everything but the only way out was to unplug the Projector. Looked like a software issue to me. Anyone else had this?


Beautiful, gno, and great feedback! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

gnolivos said:


> Did you guys get a rear plastic cover for this projector, to cover the connectors? It seems there should have been one in my box, but nope...


I've heard only the pro models... Or maybe wireless... 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## jsil

Did you see any macro-blocking during the football game.


----------



## Ellebob

Pro models it is included, $99 for cable cover for non-pro models. Pro models besides a few features like ISF and modes for an anamorphic lens is all about the bundle of cable cover, spare lamp, Chief projector mount, black case instead of white and 3 year warranty instead of 2 year. Other than that they are identical projectors.


----------



## canillo

ac388 said:


> I had the 5040 for a week n about 15hrs. on it. Got a few question n wonder if someone can help me out ...
> 
> 1) When feeding in 4K material, the 'Frame Interpolation' white out for me, but ok for 1080P material. Is it normal ?
> 2) When watching 1080P with e-shift, I have to select HIGH on 'Frame Interpolation' , otherwise the panning of fast moving object looks a bit fuzzy. Is it normal ?
> 3) HDR : It only has Mode 1 to 4, why there is no 5 to 10 ? Does it mean Mode 1 is not equal to HDR1 ?
> 4) From previous video clip on an interview with a Dutch Epson salesman, he said the 5040 can output 100-800nits. But UHD bluray discs are 1000-4000nits, is it the reason why the picture is so dark when we select HDR Mode 2 ? To make things right, does it mean the player will have to do the conversion in between, to make the picture right. Its not just Epson, I read the JVC thread n the user also complain insufficient brightness when using HDR too.
> 
> Thanks in advance for all input


I noticed the same thing.And noticed that the image quality with the frame interpolation in normal is much better than when is off. Im assuming unless you are fedding a 4k 60p signal...then the option becomes available. Assuming the epson handles 4k at 60p.


----------



## sherr127

ac388 said:


> I had the 5040 for a week n about 15hrs. on it. Got a few question n wonder if someone can help me out ...
> 
> 1) When feeding in 4K material, the 'Frame Interpolation' white out for me, but ok for 1080P material. Is it normal ?
> 2) *When watching 1080P with e-shift, I have to select HIGH on 'Frame Interpolation' , otherwise the panning of fast moving object looks a bit fuzzy. Is it normal ?*
> 3) HDR : It only has Mode 1 to 4, why there is no 5 to 10 ? Does it mean Mode 1 is not equal to HDR1 ?
> 4) From previous video clip on an interview with a Dutch Epson salesman, he said the 5040 can output 100-800nits. But UHD bluray discs are 1000-4000nits, is it the reason why the picture is so dark when we select HDR Mode 2 ? To make things right, does it mean the player will have to do the conversion in between, to make the picture right. Its not just Epson, I read the JVC thread n the user also complain insufficient brightness when using HDR too.
> 
> Thanks in advance for all input


Oh,i thought i'm the only one facing this problem..i've tried swithching between fine and fast still doesnt work.


----------



## gnolivos

$99 for a $1 piece of plastic. What is Epson smoking?


----------



## gnolivos

Is it worth looking into the wireless setup process? I need to figure out how or why that would be useful.


----------



## ac388

canillo said:


> I noticed the same thing.And noticed that the image quality with the frame interpolation in normal is much better than when is off. Im assuming unless you are fedding a 4k 60p signal...then the option becomes available. Assuming the epson handles 4k at 60p.


When feeding 4K stuff, 'Refresh rate' always read '23.99Hz', regardless of film or video. Hope some expert here can educate me a bit.


----------



## Spoonsey

rupedogg24 said:


> These pics are from a 1080p source with the projector doing the grunt work. Basement family room in the evening with light coming through the windows and I was still able to get quality pictures due to the brightness and clarity of this projector.


Great looking room and awesome pics. Well done!


----------



## Jimcarus

*Help needed*

Hi, I'm loving all these photos of the Epsons in action and I'm seriously considering buying one. I have one stumbling block - I currently use a 10M (32ft) High Speed HDMI cable to my Epson TW3200 with no problems but I'm not sure if this PJ will accept a cable that length for all 4K modes given the distance and bandwidth.

Is anyone using a similar length cable, or has one to try that can let me know, as I can't go shorter.

I'm only looking for real world tests, not theory, as I can't afford to make a mistake.

Thanks in advance if anyone is able to help.


----------



## dvdwilly3

aaranddeeman said:


> Thanks.
> Now if only I can demo one of these puppys..


I checked IQ Home entertainment (Fairfax) and they do not have it yet. He thought that 6040 was not shipping yet. He said that he was not sure that they would be putting up the 6040 for demo.


----------



## Viche

ac388 said:


> When feeding 4K stuff, 'Refresh rate' always read '23.99Hz', regardless of film or video. Hope some expert here can educate me a bit.


If e-shifted 1080p looks blurry in motion withoit FI, then what about native 4k which runs at 24fps and can't use FI?


----------



## Ellebob

if your 10 meter cable is passive you can always add a signal restorer if it doesn't work. Try it first before using a restorer. If it is an active cable that is more of a problem and the cable would likely need to be replaced if it wasn't designed for 18gbs bandwidth.


----------



## shepdog

Viche said:


> If e-shifted 1080p looks blurry in motion withoit FI, then what about native 4k which rubs at 24fps and can't use FI?




Does not look blurry at all


----------



## aaranddeeman

dvdwilly3 said:


> I checked IQ Home entertainment (Fairfax) and they do not have it yet. He thought that 6040 was not shipping yet. He said that he was not sure that they would be putting up the 6040 for demo.


Oh. Thanks.
The chances of them in Best buy are also bleak.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Jimcarus said:


> Hi, I'm loving all these photos of the Epsons in action and I'm seriously considering buying one. I have one stumbling block - I currently use a 10M (32ft) High Speed HDMI cable to my Epson TW3200 with no problems but I'm not sure if this PJ will accept a cable that length for all 4K modes given the distance and bandwidth.
> 
> Is anyone using a similar length cable, or has one to try that can let me know, as I can't go shorter.
> 
> I'm only looking for real world tests, not theory, as I can't afford to make a mistake.
> 
> Thanks in advance if anyone is able to help.


More or less everyone has that same issue. Longer than 20' cable..
Try the new Sewell passive (ETA 09/29). They "claim" it will work.


----------



## gnolivos

Viche said:


> If e-shifted 1080p looks blurry in motion withoit FI, then what about native 4k which rubs at 24fps and can't use FI?




I have been watching Blu-rays upscaled eshifted 4K without FI, and I have no such issues at all. Everything is extremely detailed and crisp. What version firmware do you guys have?


----------



## Jimcarus

aaranddeeman said:


> More or less everyone has that same issue. Longer than 20' cable..
> Try the new Sewell passive (ETA 09/29). They "claim" it will work.


Thanks for the replies, it's gives me more to research 

Do you need to use a 2.0 cable for this projector or will a 1.4a carry the the signal?


----------



## Mike Garrett

shepdog said:


> I'm with rupedogg24. I had a scheduled calibration that I've canceled. I'm two weeks in with 36 hours on the 5040 and my jaw still drops.
> 
> I've never owned a projector but my friend has a optima. Unsure the model. It's a nice projector but just no comparison. After watching all the games this weekend he has placed his order. I can't wait to see it at his place because he has 135" screen.
> 
> Several say that 4K is not that big of a deal compared to UHD and I disagree. Maybe on a small screen but on 120" the detail is just amazing. I sit anywhere from 10-15 ft & I don't even have a bd player yet, but the 4K streams from Netflix are really, really good.
> 
> I really can't remember the last time I've been this happy with a purchase.


Best to calibrate in place after you have around 100 hours on the projector. Next best would be to have the projector calibrated and then sent to you, as long as the calibrator burnt some hours on the lamp to get it to where the lamp was stabilized. Worst is if the projector is calibrated straight out of the box, before the lamp is stabilized. That is a waste of money in my opinion.


----------



## shepdog

Mike Garrett said:


> Best to calibrate in place after you have around 100 hours on the projector. Next best would be to have the projector calibrated and then sent to you, as long as the calibrator burnt some hours on the lamp to get it to where the lamp was stabilized. Worst is if the projector is calibrated straight out of the box, before the lamp is stabilized. That is a waste of money in my opinion.




Good to know


----------



## Gates

Jimcarus said:


> Thanks for the replies, it's gives me more to research
> 
> Do you need to use a 2.0 cable for this projector or will a 1.4a carry the the signal?




I don't have the Epson but I do have the JVC RS400 and the Audioquest Pearl 10m cable works just fine. Above 10m they say it becomes Standard definition. I don't think you can use a 1.4a cable.


----------



## Jimcarus

Gates said:


> I don't have the Epson but I do have the JVC RS400 and the Audioquest Pearl 10m cable works just fine. Above 10m they say it becomes Standard definition. I don't think you can use a 1.4a cable.


Thanks, that gives me hope on the cable length front. 

Buying this projector would push my finances to the limit right now after having just completed £40K of home improvements, so I pretty much need it to work out of the box with no extra expense. I can stretch to a new 10M 2.0 cable. If I would need a 2.0 HDMI repeater, it would be out of my range.

The terrible HDR performance and cable concerns are the only things delaying my purchase.


----------



## Gates

Jimcarus said:


> Thanks, that gives me hope on the cable length front.
> 
> Buying this projector would push my finances to the limit right now after having just completed £40K of home improvements, so I pretty much need it to work out of the box with no extra expense. I can stretch to a new 10M 2.0 cable. If I would need a 2.0 HDMI repeater, it would be out of my range.
> 
> The terrible HDR performance and cable concerns are the only things delaying my purchase.




I told my dealer that I would buy the projector if he threw in the cable and that was after I talked him down from their price. So try and get the cable for free if you can.


----------



## Mike Garrett

aaranddeeman said:


> Thanks.
> I too have the Sanyo PLV Z2000 (along with Acer H9500BD) in my theater.
> Good to know the comparison between the two to get a better idea.
> I was (and may be still am) a bit not impressed with the CR numbers and was getting pulled to the "dark" side.
> But your review is making me re-think for sure.


All of the pictures were of bright content. Dark content is where the difference would be, but in a room with light colored walls and a white ceiling, less of a difference.


----------



## Mike Garrett

gnolivos said:


> $99 for a $1 piece of plastic. What is Epson smoking?


Remember this is not the same piece as on the pro model. On the pro model it is black. This piece would have to be white and they will hardly sell any of them, so makes production cost, per piece very high. Though I agree with you, no way I would pay $99 for it. Just explaining why it is what it is.


----------



## Dirk504

Anyone compare this projector to the Sony 45ES and is the jump worth $1k picture wise? I don't really care about the motorized lens and other stuff, as I plan to "set it and forget it" at 16:9 with a 120" Sikver Ticket screen. But I do care about the 4K and 1080p Blu Ray images. 

My media room is a bat cave. Which projector would I benefit more from with this room (attached)? Also I have a Samsung KS8500. For those of you with 4K TVs, does the 5040 picture still impress you?

Last question. Is anyone pairing this projector with the XBox One S and are you experiencing any issues with Blu Ray playback? FYI I know it can't do Atmos, but I'll be using 5.1 for awhile, so it's irrelevant.


----------



## bakihanna

Dirk504 said:


> Anyone compare this projector to the Sony 45ES and is the jump worth $1k picture wise? I don't really care about the motorized lens and other stuff, as I plan to "set it and forget it" at 16:9 with a 120" Sikver Ticket screen. But I do care about the 4K and 1080p Blu Ray images.
> 
> My media room is a bat cave. Which projector would I benefit more from with this room (attached)? Also I have a Samsung KS8500. For those of you with 4K TVs, does the 5040 picture still impress you?
> 
> Last question. Is anyone pairing this projector with the XBox One S and are you experiencing any issues with Blu Ray playback? FYI I know it can't do Atmos, but I'll be using 5.1 for awhile, so it's irrelevant.


I had the 45ES before jumping to the Epson. The Sony 45ES is a beast of its own, picture colors pop like a mofo loved it while i had it. Since I wanted to have the 4k capability the $1k difference was worth the jump to me. The Epson blacks are better the picture sharpness if beyond, colors i still fill the Sony has the upper hand but once you mess around the Epson settings you can adjust the colors to your liking. Overall I do not regret getting returning the 45ES and getting the 5040 one bit.


----------



## Savatage316

Hey guys, didn't get a chance to read the full thread yet but just curious if anyone compared this to a BenQ 2050 and what sort of overall picture quality jump one could expect for 1080p. 

Also curious how the input lag is for gaming, I am getting a 1080 gpu soon I run a 980 ti currently, and I still use my ps4 plenty as well. I'd be slowly getting into 4k content, but I'm curious how on a performance level of overall pic quality compared to what I have now. Obviously an 800 buck projector can only go so far when you're comparing to a 3k model, but still I am always impressed with my little 2050 here. 

But if we're talkingike a 50% jump just in 1080p content then I think I gotta buy this projector Pronto


----------



## Bachiano

Dirk504 said:


> Anyone compare this projector to the Sony 45ES and is the jump worth $1k picture wise? I don't really care about the motorized lens and other stuff, as I plan to "set it and forget it" at 16:9 with a 120" Sikver Ticket screen. But I do care about the 4K and 1080p Blu Ray images.
> My media room is a bat cave. Which projector would I benefit more from with this room (attached)? Also I have a Samsung KS8500. For those of you with 4K TVs, does the 5040 picture still impress you?
> Last question. Is anyone pairing this projector with the XBox One S and are you experiencing any issues with Blu Ray playback? FYI I know it can't do Atmos, but I'll be using 5.1 for awhile, so it's irrelevant.


I also loved the natural picture the 45es produced but in the end I returned it because I have a bat cave like yours and the blacks were grey.
If you want faux 4k then you don't have a choice but to jump up to the 5040.
The 45es has a native contrast of 7000:1
The 5040 has the same native contrast (I think) but it also has an iris.
Have not seen the 5040 so can't comment on how effective the iris is in lowering the blacks.

Moving up a notch - RS400 vs 5040:
The JVC RS400 has better blacks but low input lag.
The 5040 has fast input lag but weaker blacks. 

Next level up - same catch 22 concerning input lag:
The JVC RS500 would be my pick for a bat cave but it still has horrible input lag and is the most expensive out of the three Pjs. 

The situation is tricky until we see some real world comparisons between the 5040 and RS400.


----------



## Dirk504

bakihanna said:


> I had the 45ES before jumping to the Epson. The Sony 45ES is a beast of its own, picture colors pop like a mofo loved it while i had it. Since I wanted to have the 4k capability the $1k difference was worth the jump to me. The Epson blacks are better the picture sharpness if beyond, colors i still fill the Sony has the upper hand but once you mess around the Epson settings you can adjust the colors to your liking. Overall I do not regret getting returning the 45ES and getting the 5040 one bit.


Thanks for the feedback. Have you had the chance to watch 4k Blu Rays and is there a huge difference between them and their 1080p counterparts? Sorry for all the questions, but there's nowhere in my city I can demo the 5040.


----------



## bakihanna

Dirk504 said:


> Thanks for the feedback. Have you had the chance to watch 4k Blu Rays and is there a huge difference between them and their 1080p counterparts? Sorry for all the questions, but there's nowhere in my city I can demo the 5040.


No a problem ask away, I jumped on both Projectors blind and luckily for me I have 45 day return window with best buy. IMO UHD has noticeable improvement over the regular BD, image pop more cause of the sharpness, I watched all my movies on HDR2 since I like my movies picture a little dim. I watched Star Trek,mad Max,Deadpool,The Martian,Creed, and X men futre past all on the philips 4k player and I thought all looked better than the blu rays for sure. Again this is all my preference and what my eyes can see, others may disagree but what we all 5040 owners can agree is that this projector is worth every penny spent.


----------



## gnolivos

I've seen/owned both. The Sony is not as sharp as the Epson. Also the motion handling of the Sony is terrible for 24p material. I cant believe people dont complain about it more. The Epson is a champ. Would never trade it for the Sony myself!



Dirk504 said:


> Anyone compare this projector to the Sony 45ES and is the jump worth $1k picture wise? I don't really care about the motorized lens and other stuff, as I plan to "set it and forget it" at 16:9 with a 120" Sikver Ticket screen. But I do care about the 4K and 1080p Blu Ray images.
> 
> My media room is a bat cave. Which projector would I benefit more from with this room (attached)? Also I have a Samsung KS8500. For those of you with 4K TVs, does the 5040 picture still impress you?
> 
> Last question. Is anyone pairing this projector with the XBox One S and are you experiencing any issues with Blu Ray playback? FYI I know it can't do Atmos, but I'll be using 5.1 for awhile, so it's irrelevant.


----------



## gnolivos

Careful -- Best Buy policy is 14 days for Projectors!



bakihanna said:


> No a problem ask away, I jumped on both Projectors blind and luckily for me I have 45 day return window with best buy. IMO UHD has noticeable improvement over the regular BD, image pop more cause of the sharpness, I watched all my movies on HDR2 since I like my movies picture a little dim. I watched Star Trek,mad Max,Deadpool,The Martian,Creed, and X men futre past all on the philips 4k player and I thought all looked better than the blu rays for sure. Again this is all my preference and what my eyes can see, others may disagree but what we all 5040 owners can agree is that this projector is worth every penny spent.


----------



## rupedogg24

Viche said:


> If e-shifted 1080p looks blurry in motion withoit FI, then what about native 4k which rubs at 24fps and can't use FI?


Be sure you're using HDMI 1 if you have a high speed cable. My Onkyo 809 is HMDI 1.4 but still works with that port through a high speed cable. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

Jimcarus said:


> Hi, I'm loving all these photos of the Epsons in action and I'm seriously considering buying one. I have one stumbling block - I currently use a 10M (32ft) High Speed HDMI cable to my Epson TW3200 with no problems but I'm not sure if this PJ will accept a cable that length for all 4K modes given the distance and bandwidth.
> 
> Is anyone using a similar length cable, or has one to try that can let me know, as I can't go shorter.
> 
> I'm only looking for real world tests, not theory, as I can't afford to make a mistake.
> 
> Thanks in advance if anyone is able to help.


I posted previously (in this thread I think even) that another AVS member has been successfully running 4K with a 30 foot run using the (linked below) monoprice cable. Search for monoprice in the BD UHD player thread for others seeking the same answer as I only captured the link but not the post or thread with the discussion so YMMV
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=12736


----------



## Dirk504

Looks like you all convinced me. I get my yearly bonus next month and I'll be using it to get the 5040.


----------



## Darren Germon

Have the epson 5040 known as tw8300 in Australia, using an Xbox one s so I can sample some 4K delights. Netflix in 2160p looks brilliant. So bought a uhd disc to try the player and on inserting the disc it said not connected to a HDR tv (which the Epson is), so to see if other hardware caused this I by passed the recviever (pioneer vsx931) and same result, so tried a new 12m high speed hdmi cable same result, tried the Xbox one s provided high speed cable and plugged directly into projector and stil same result.

So I'm guessing that the issue is the Xbox one s and a compatibility problem with HDR, has others tried a Xbox one s and a uhd disc on the epson and got the same message? So am I missing anything or is this a firmware update from Microsoft to fix?....


----------



## shepdog

Many problems with Xbox one s on many different devices. Someone else recommended Xbox forums. Tons of upset people over there


----------



## aaranddeeman

Gates said:


> I don't have the Epson but I do have the JVC RS400 and the Audioquest Pearl 10m cable works just fine. Above 10m they say it becomes Standard definition. I don't think you can use a 1.4a cable.


I don't believe there is any difference in the cable when you say 1.4a vs 2.0. It's just HDMI spec.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Mike Garrett said:


> All of the pictures were of bright content. Dark content is where the difference would be, but in a room with light colored walls and a white ceiling, less of a difference.


Yeah. Mine is close to bat cave.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> Careful -- Best Buy policy is 14 days for Projectors!


He may be Elite member..


----------



## bakihanna

aaranddeeman said:


> He may be Elite member..


I am a Elite Member, and thus the reason I made sure to say. I luckily have 45 days return with Best Buy


----------



## Savatage316

I think to boil my question down a bit simpler, I'm just newer to projections and what exactly will a high quality high end device do for my regular content that isn't 4k. So 1080p stuff, my Benq 2050 looks great in my eyes but what can I expect if someone could explain the difference when it comes to high end machines like this, will it completely alter my current media and then even more so with 4k feeds?


----------



## gnolivos

bakihanna said:


> I am a Elite Member, and thus the reason I made sure to say. I luckily have 45 days return with Best Buy




Ah, phew. Just wanted to make sure you weren't screwed!


----------



## gnolivos

Savatage316 said:


> I think to boil my question down a bit simpler, I'm just newer to projections and what exactly will a high quality high end device do for my regular content that isn't 4k. So 1080p stuff, my Benq 2050 looks great in my eyes but what can I expect if someone could explain the difference when it comes to high end machines like this, will it completely alter my current media and then even more so with 4k feeds?




Even if you display pure 1080p on this projector you will see a perceived improvement in image quality, compared to your previous projector due to increased contrast and deep blacks. Then factor in the up sampling to 4K and you have another step up in image quality (I notice it, more pixels and more fill on screen). Factor some of the awesome detail enhancement features and another jump. And finally 4K content should look clearly better again another step up. I have yet to test 4K. 
Bottom line is I sure know you will see a difference based on my similar experience.


----------



## Savatage316

gnolivos said:


> Even if you display pure 1080p on this projector you will see a perceived improvement in image quality, compared to your previous projector due to o creased contrast and deep blacks. Then factor in the up sampling to 4K and you have another step up in image quality (I notice it, more pixels and more fill on screen). Factor some do the awesome detail enhancement features and another jump. And finally 4K content should look clearly better again another step up. I have yet to test 4K.
> Bottom line is I sure know you will see a difference based on my similar experience.


Awesome. I wish I could have a pic or two to see what type of difference just to sort of see before I dropped 3000, but I'm sure the difference would be incredible. Like I'm curious if something like this would take on sort of the deep black levels you see in like good HD sets.


----------



## gnolivos

You'll never get the incredible performance of the awesome new Samsung 4K HDR TV sets. There are too many variables to control in home theatre setups. But I will say this, this projector blows away just about every high end commercial movie theatre image I've seen lately.


----------



## shepdog

gnolivos said:


> You'll never get the incredible performance of the awesome new Samsung 4K HDR TV sets. There are too many variables to control in home theatre setups. But I will say this, this projector blows away just about every high end commercial movie theatre image I've seen lately.




I think when people discuss projector vs TV sets, the size difference is discounted. After watching movies on a 120" screen for the last two weeks I can never go back. If anything I wish I could go bigger. The difference 4K makes on my screen is amazing. 

I've been checking out the $4k lg oled tvs and they are awesome. But as great as they are they don't come close to providing the thrill of the bigger screen. The lg loses some of its wow factor when I start creating distance. At 15ft it's still great but 65" just seems tiny now. The Epson at 15 ft still makes me say wow.


----------



## Savatage316

gnolivos said:


> You'll never get the incredible performance of the awesome new Samsung 4K HDR TV sets. There are too many variables to control in home theatre setups. But I will say this, this projector blows away just about every high end commercial movie theatre image I've seen lately.


Gotcha, yea I mean for these screen sizes it's hard to expect that type of performance but it's pretty damn close is what you're saying.

I just wanna make sure a jump from a Benq 2050 to the Epson 5040ub would be a fairly huge one, that's really all I need confirmed. But from what everyone is posting and saying seems like it will be


----------



## Savatage316

shepdog said:


> I think when people discuss projector vs TV sets, the size difference is discounted. After watching movies on a 120" screen for the last two weeks I can never go back. If anything I wish I could go bigger. The difference 4K makes on my screen is amazing.
> 
> I've been checking out the $4k lg oled tvs and they are awesome. But as great as they are they don't come close to providing the thrill of the bigger screen. The lg loses some of its wow factor when I start creating distance. At 15ft it's still great but 65" just seems tiny now. The Epson at 15 ft still makes me say wow.


Yea man same, I could never go smaller for gaming and movies, projection is the way to go I am the same and wish I could actually go larger.


----------



## wbcollegekid

Anybody get Netflix HDR streaming to work with their Epson? I have not been able to get Netflix HDR to work with the phillips UHD player.


----------



## shepdog

wbcollegekid said:


> Anybody get Netflix HDR streaming to work with their Epson? I have not been able to get Netflix HDR to work with the phillips UHD player.




Waiting on update from Netflix.

Should be some info on first page


----------



## gnolivos

Watched Jungle Book bluray today. I'm blown away. Looks absolutely incredible. This is reference material guys...!


----------



## Spoonsey

gnolivos said:


> Watched Jungle Book bluray today. I'm blown away. Looks absolutely incredible. This is reference material guys...!


Pictures please!


----------



## gnolivos

Spoonsey said:


> Pictures please!




Here I took a few for you!


----------



## Spoonsey

gnolivos said:


> Here I took a few for you!


Goddamn! Looks amazing.


----------



## gnolivos

Spoonsey said:


> Goddamn! Looks amazing.




iPhone had trouble focusing on some. The second to last is focused. Look at the detail of the kid way far out there!


----------



## kingwiggi

Epson 6040 

Short Video by Screen Innovations 

Screen Innovations


----------



## canillo

Here is a quick shot with my samsung phone with a moving scene. 1080p content upscaled. Cabernet monoprice. I dont know if the cable works with 60p content because I dont have any content. Waiting for oppo player.


----------



## Ronman79

gnolivos said:


> Here I took a few for you!


 Beautiful! What lighting, modes, 4K or 1080 blu-ray, etc? 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

Ronman79 said:


> Beautiful! What lighting, modes, 4K or 1080 blu-ray, etc?
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk




It is a dark room blacked out. Cinema mode calibrated quickly in medium lamp. Bluray upscaled to 4K using eshift. I'm in disbelief. Here is a 1:1 crop of the kid in that scene above. Look at the amount of detail. (!!!)


----------



## Ronman79

gnolivos said:


> It is a dark room blacked out. Cinema mode calibrated quickly in medium lamp. Bluray upscaled to 4K using eshift. I'm in disbelief. Here is a 1:1 crop of the kid in that scene above. Look at the amount of detail. (!!!)


I'm very impressed, as I inch closer to my purchase time frame. I'm curious to see what happens at CEDIA next week, but I have this one at the top of the list for now! My build should start in February, and I'm waiting until just before... Hurry up and wait sucks!!! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

Some of these screens look amazing guys. My only concern is just how sort of screens seen on my note 7 will look amazing no matter what, wish there was a way to see them more or less as if you were actually there. 

So torn, love my Benq 2050 but man if these sceens are what one would get then that would be incredible


----------



## canillo

anyone has an idea or has tried to see what setting gives a better picture. 1080p with frame interpolation on normal or high vs 1080p content upscaled to 4k 24p. I dont know if Im crazy but i feel like the 1080p at 60p and FI set to normal looks better.


----------



## gnolivos

canillo said:


> anyone has an idea or has tried to see what setting gives a better picture. 1080p with frame interpolation on normal or high vs 1080p content upscaled to 4k 24p. I dont know if Im crazy but i feel like the 1080p at 60p and FI set to normal looks better.




FI does nothing to detail. It just enhances motion. Anyway, you don't have to choose. You can do FI and 4K on blurays. (But not on UHD discs or true 4K content as I understand it).


----------



## hnupe

*Thoughts on High Speed Cable please?*

Has anyone dealt with 
binary b6 active grip trek? Is this a good brand, etc?


----------



## aaranddeeman

hnupe said:


> Has anyone dealt with
> binary b6 active grip trek? Is this a good brand, etc?


Frequent this forum for information.


----------



## Savatage316

I plan to get a PS4 pro and I'm upgrading my gpu from a 980 ti to a 1080 soon, but til then I'm rolling my ps4 and 980 ti and I'm just curious as to what I can expect for a boost from my current Benq 2050 to this with just ps4? I mean were talking a whole other level of clarity, crispness, black levels and contrast even for content that isn't 4k?

Basically this device will only get better the more 4k gear and content I throw at it. 

I'm just stalling since it's 3k haha 2k it'd been bought already, but 3k is a hesitating but I think I gotta


----------



## Bachiano

kingwiggi said:


> Epson 6040
> Short Video by Screen Innovations


No dead pixel or they replace the PJ.
That sound fantastic if it's true?
I went to epson USA to check out the warranty on both the 6040 and 5040 and could not find anything on dead pixels.
I wonder if the no dead pixel policy also applies to the 5040 ?


----------



## Bachiano

Savatage316 said:


> I plan to get a PS4 pro


Rumor is the PS4 pro is not true 4k
And won't play UHD 4k Blu-ray discs


----------



## JewDaddy

TBON512 said:


> HDMI 1 only, HDMI 2 on the Epson would always handshake at SDR regardless of settings.
> 4K 60P had to be completely shut off in the settings of the Philips player
> Resolution could not be set to 4K, but rather to Auto on the Philips player
> All Advanced image settings had to be set to "Auto" on the 5040.
> Picture in Picture is lost any time a 4K signal or 3D signal is present on either port according to Epson...however i was able to get PiP in a very color-distorted window with one 4K source.
> 
> So even if you have a 4K/60p capable BR player and disc with HDR UHD, you can only view it in 24P, and not 24P refreshed at 60Hz so that Frame Interpolation could be used to brighten it a little and smooth the motion. The Epson tech support rep admitted even they were trying to figure out all the missing details in the documentation of this PJ's capabilities.


Hmmmmmmm. This has me thinking about why CFI isn't available while watching a 4K source such as a 4K HDR Blu Ray or 1080P blu-Ray upscaled to 4K. Because the Frame Interpolation works if I set my Phillips or Samsung player to 1080p and use the 4K enhancement option in the settings. Your comments make it sound as though the Epson could possibly have CFI enabled if the projector recognized the blu Ray player at 4K 24P 60HZ. If it's not recognizing the source as 60HZ, that could be why it grays out the CFI option in the menu. Man if they could fix that, this would be the perfect projector for me. I've heard people say it can't enable CFI because it's not true 4K and the E-Shift mode doesn't allow that option. But after reading up about the JVC's, they use E-Shift and the CFI works with a 4ak blu Ray player.


----------



## Labud420

Could we get a REAL owners thread


----------



## gnolivos

Well disappointingly, I find that the lens shift memory is quite inexact. If I recall a saved memory setting, it can be off by over 1 inch on my 110 diagonal screen.


----------



## gnolivos

Now a shot from TWC


----------



## WynsWrld98

gnolivos said:


> Well disappointingly, I find that the lens shift memory is quite inexact. If I recall a saved memory setting, it can be off by over 1 inch on my 110 diagonal screen.


So vertical shift is inaccurate and requires the 1" adjustment? Have you tried resaving that setting to memory and see if it becomes any more accurate?


----------



## gnolivos

I've tried resaving. No dice. It's off most of the time but not always upon recalled.


----------



## Savatage316

Well, just made my purchase... Mine will be here Tuesday!


----------



## Stew4msu

Bachiano said:


> Rumor is the PS4 pro is not true 4k
> And won't play UHD 4k Blu-ray discs


Confirmed by engadget.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> I've tried resaving. No dice. It's off most of the time but not always upon recalled.


Are you at an "extreme" end of the range or anything? I have not yet had a chance to test the lens posiiton memory on mine but I do know that other projectors that are near a boundry (verticle or horizonal shift) don't "like" being at those extremes and they tend to waiver a bit like when you turn your car's steering wheel to it's limit you might hear a squel but if you don't press to the extreme, there is no squel. I wonder if you issue could be something similar?


----------



## canillo

we keep going around in circles about the 1080p 60p and the 4k at 24p. Does anyone indeed has accurate information if the Epson can accept and project 4k at 60p or 60hz? And if it does...how come no one has been able to do it yet. For me this issue could be a deal breaker since I like that option and the JVC is able to play it.


----------



## canillo

So its a software problem? I just wanna know that the epson its able to play that content. I have 45 days before I run outta my return days.


----------



## kraine

The EH-TW9300W review is now online :

http://www.projection-homecinema.fr/2016/09/10/test-epson-eh-tw9300w/

Google translation :



https://translate.google.fr/transla...mecinema.fr/2016/09/10/test-epson-eh-tw9300w/


----------



## robgarcia

just Ordered Mine Today but have to wait 10 days lol i will be counting the Time down. this will be my 3rd Epson Projector i tried to buy it from the same place i bought my 6030ub 
but the place tried to trash the Epson and told me to get a JVC , the sales rep went on to say it has 2500 lumens but not the same color lumens when in fact the actual web site from the manufacturer states it has 2500 of both white and color. I just think the AV Dealers will try and tell you false info because they want you to spend 2 to 3 thousand more on a better projector.

this same retailer told me that i would have to pay to have it delivered right to my door and offered no free stuff and i was shocked since i bout the 6030ub at 3400 about a year and a half ago and also 1300 for a oppo 105d Blu-Ray player and had both shipped for free. I then told myself I will not buy from them again, i went to best buy and they matched a online price for 5030ube and got it for 3097 Dollars saved 200 and no sales tax i just got to pick it up when it comes in. this projector will be the hottest thing this year for anyone wanting a 4k shift experience. as far as people saying it has issues i am confident they will get everything sorted out once they have a firmware upgrade. 

i did read the actual owners manual and it does say 60hz if i remember right that means it refreshes 60 times per sec


----------



## gnolivos

ndabunka said:


> Are you at an "extreme" end of the range or anything? I have not yet had a chance to test the lens posiiton memory on mine but I do know that other projectors that are near a boundry (verticle or horizonal shift) don't "like" being at those extremes and they tend to waiver a bit like when you turn your car's steering wheel to it's limit you might hear a squel but if you don't press to the extreme, there is no squel. I wonder if you issue could be something similar?




Not near any extremes.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Bachiano said:


> No dead pixel or they replace the PJ.
> That sound fantastic if it's true?
> I went to epson USA to check out the warranty on both the 6040 and 5040 and could not find anything on dead pixels.
> I wonder if the no dead pixel policy also applies to the 5040 ?


Yes, dead pixel policy applies to 5040 also.


----------



## Mike Garrett

robgarcia said:


> just Ordered Mine Today but have to wait 10 days lol i will be counting the Time down. this will be my 3rd Epson Projector i tried to buy it from the same place i bought my 6030ub
> but the place tried to trash the Epson and told me to get a JVC , the sales rep went on to say it has 2500 lumens but not the same color lumens when in fact the actual web site from the manufacturer states it has 2500 of both white and color. I just think the AV Dealers will try and tell you false info because they want you to spend 2 to 3 thousand more on a better projector.
> 
> this same retailer told me that i would have to pay to have it delivered right to my door and offered no free stuff and i was shocked since i bout the 6030ub at 3400 about a year and a half ago and also 1300 for a oppo 105d Blu-Ray player and had both shipped for free. I then told myself I will not buy from them again, i went to best buy and they matched a online price for 5030ube and got it for 3097 Dollars saved 200 and no sales tax i just got to pick it up when it comes in. this projector will be the hottest thing this year for anyone wanting a 4k shift experience. as far as people saying it has issues i am confident they will get everything sorted out once they have a firmware upgrade.
> 
> i did read the actual owners manual and it does say 60hz if i remember right that means it refreshes 60 times per sec


Best buy discounted the 5040 for you?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Mike Garrett said:


> Best buy discounted the 5040 for you?


He says they matched the online price. I am not sure who that is online (authorized dealer) discounting and providing closer to 5040 price for the UBe.
He also says "no sales tax". That is new for a B&M store.


----------



## shepdog

*This was posted on the other thread but great information. 

Thank you zombie10k*



zombie10k said:


> https://hdtvpolska.com/epson-eh-tw9300w-test-projektora-lcd-4k-ultra-hd/
> 
> potential owners should read through this review, one of the most thorough I've seen on the 5040 so far.
> _
> "HDMI 1, although it works in a standard 2.0a supports HDCP 2.2,* it is limited to 340MHz.* This means that it can accept the resolution 4Kp60 / 4Kp50 format only 8-bit 4: 2: 0. __* It does not provide 18Gbps capacity* "
> 
> _This looks like it will cause an immediate issue with the Samsung player which doesn't play nice with the bandwidth constrained 10.2Gbps chipsets.
> 
> _Unfortunately, not every player is in such a situation easily. Samsung BD-KU8500, for example, refuses to cooperate and degrades the signal to 8 bit without HDR and a wide palette of colors. Xbox One S does not want to specify the content of HDR._
> 
> 
> It does look like they got HDR working correctly with the $699 US Panasonic UB900 but only after very specific settings that are in the review.
> 
> HDR1 mode 1 looks like it's clips whites aggressively, HDR2 looks like a better choice.


----------



## c.kingsley

canillo said:


> So its a software problem? I just wanna know that the epson its able to play that content. I have 45 days before I run outta my return days.


It seems like someone with a PC or Mac and a short HDMI cable directly into the 5040 could definitively answer this question in about 5 minutes? Or does it have to be HDR to validate?

edit - supported according to manual over HDMI (not wireless): https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd51749/index.html


----------



## cofn42

I need to add my 2 cents about gaming and input lag here as it is being blown WAY out of proportion. 

I was almost scared off of buying a X500r last year by folks here claiming it is "unplayable" on a JVC due to input lag.

It is total BS.

As a preface, I am a hardcore gamer, I play on all platforms including PC. I play on average 50 - 70 games a year. Play single player and a lot of online shooters (CoD, BF, etc) and also play a lot of Final Fantasy 14 online which requires twitch timing on boss fights. Also delve into games that have a lot of QTE which have to be very accurate.

Saying all that, I have NEVER had an issue with the X500R, my kill counts have not wavered coming from a Panny 8000 which had substantially lower input lag (about 35ms). Hell I finished CoD:BO3 on REALISTIC on the X500, if input lag was an issue this would not have been possible as pretty much 1 shot and you are dead. 

When it comes down to it, an input lag of 140 or so is a total of about 4 lost frames from a 60fps refresh. That is 4 missing frame PER SECOND. Practically invisible to the eye. 

Unless you are playing on a professional level, there is not a snowballs chance in hell this will affect you, and even then, I would be willing to bet most pro gamers in a blind side by side would not know the difference. 

Do not be fooled folks, the JVC is perfectly capable of gaming and it looks downright amazing on the JVC projectors thanks to their black levels. 

So if input lag is your only deciding factor, go with the JVC.


----------



## ndabunka

aaranddeeman said:


> He says they matched the online price. I am not sure who that is online (authorized dealer) discounting and providing closer to 5040 price for the UBe.
> He also says "no sales tax". That is new for a B&M store.


No, he didn't say they discounted the 5040. His quote that showed a discout was from when he was negotiating for the 5030. Read again


----------



## flyinmunky99

cofn42 said:


> I need to add my 2 cents about gaming and input lag here as it is being blown WAY out of proportion.
> 
> I was almost scared off of buying a X500r last year by folks here claiming it is "unplayable" on a JVC due to input lag.
> 
> It is total BS.
> 
> As a preface, I am a hardcore gamer, I play on all platforms including PC. I play on average 50 - 70 games a year. Play single player and a lot of online shooters (CoD, BF, etc) and also play a lot of Final Fantasy 14 online which requires twitch timing on boss fights. Also delve into games that have a lot of QTE which have to be very accurate.
> 
> Saying all that, I have NEVER had an issue with the X500R, my kill counts have not wavered coming from a Panny 8000 which had substantially lower input lag (about 35ms). Hell I finished CoD:BO3 on REALISTIC on the X500, if input lag was an issue this would not have been possible as pretty much 1 shot and you are dead.
> 
> When it comes down to it, an input lag of 140 or so is a total of about 4 lost frames from a 60fps refresh. That is 4 missing frame PER SECOND. Practically invisible to the eye.
> 
> Unless you are playing on a professional level, there is not a snowballs chance in hell this will affect you, and even then, I would be willing to bet most pro gamers in a blind side by side would not know the difference.
> 
> Do not be fooled folks, the JVC is perfectly capable of gaming and it looks downright amazing on the JVC projectors thanks to their black levels.
> 
> So if input lag is your only deciding factor, go with the JVC.



I think its different for everyone. Some people will notice it more. 140ms is more like 8 missing frames from what I read. Add in lag from the controller on top and I'm sure on games that require quick actions like fighting or FPS a lot of people will feel it. Again depends on the person as to what they find ok.


----------



## Bufftweaker

cofn42 said:


> So if input lag is your only deciding factor, go with the JVC.


I wish but the JVC is 50% more expensive. No contest in sub 3k range.


----------



## shepdog

Bufftweaker said:


> I wish but the JVC is 50% more expensive. No contest in sub 3k range.




I just don't understand. 

I've read the entire other thread and it's pretty clear that 99.9% say if you can swing the cash buy the JVC. 

There are several JVC owners over there who state that lag is not a issue. I don't understand why JVC owners are so insistent on telling us the merits of their projector. Trust me we get it. It's the best under 10k and some would say 15k. I'm glad you guys love it but I love mine also. 

We complained in the other thread and were told to create a official Epson thread to stop the JVC talk. 

If a person does not understand the greatness of JVC at this point than they never will. 
Rant over.


----------



## robgarcia

Mike Garrett said:


> Best buy discounted the 5040 for you?


Yes we first called there 1800 number because it said you could not order it from there web site page we then mentioned it being online cheaper and they told my wife that since we were good customers from our past purchases that they would match it but if we had it delivered to our house that we would have to pay sales taxes . so we went to our local store that is about 45 miles from us in the state of Oregon and ordered it there and just set it up to pick up at the store when it arrives to avoid sales tax because the State of Oregon has no State tax.
and I live in Washington State. they then Verified our conversation with there online service and they matched a price with a online E retailer if you would like to know who it was just PM 
ME and i will tell you who.


----------



## Ronman79

cofn42 said:


> I need to add my 2 cents about gaming and input lag here as it is being blown WAY out of proportion.
> 
> I was almost scared off of buying a X500r last year by folks here claiming it is "unplayable" on a JVC due to input lag.
> 
> It is total BS.
> 
> As a preface, I am a hardcore gamer, I play on all platforms including PC. I play on average 50 - 70 games a year. Play single player and a lot of online shooters (CoD, BF, etc) and also play a lot of Final Fantasy 14 online which requires twitch timing on boss fights. Also delve into games that have a lot of QTE which have to be very accurate.
> 
> Saying all that, I have NEVER had an issue with the X500R, my kill counts have not wavered coming from a Panny 8000 which had substantially lower input lag (about 35ms). Hell I finished CoD:BO3 on REALISTIC on the X500, if input lag was an issue this would not have been possible as pretty much 1 shot and you are dead.
> 
> When it comes down to it, an input lag of 140 or so is a total of about 4 lost frames from a 60fps refresh. That is 4 missing frame PER SECOND. Practically invisible to the eye.
> 
> Unless you are playing on a professional level, there is not a snowballs chance in hell this will affect you, and even then, I would be willing to bet most pro gamers in a blind side by side would not know the difference.
> 
> Do not be fooled folks, the JVC is perfectly capable of gaming and it looks downright amazing on the JVC projectors thanks to their black levels.
> 
> So if input lag is your only deciding factor, go with the JVC.


I have to say that this is very contradictory info, and if true, is also very encouraging to someone like me who's on the fence. However, you are in the extreme minority to say so.... 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

shepdog said:


> I just don't understand.
> 
> I've read the entire other thread and it's pretty clear that 99.9% say if you can swing the cash buy the JVC.
> 
> There are several JVC owners over there who state that lag is not a issue. I don't understand why JVC owners are so insistent on telling us the merits of their projector. Trust me we get it. It's the best under 10k and some would say 15k. I'm glad you guys love it but I love mine also.
> 
> We complained in the other thread and were told to create a official Epson thread to stop the JVC talk.
> 
> If a person does not understand the greatness of JVC at this point than they never will.
> Rant over.


Well said too... 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

cofn42 said:


> I need to add my 2 cents about gaming and input lag here as it is being blown WAY out of proportion.
> 
> I was almost scared off of buying a X500r last year by folks here claiming it is "unplayable" on a JVC due to input lag.
> 
> It is total BS.
> 
> As a preface, I am a hardcore gamer, I play on all platforms including PC. I play on average 50 - 70 games a year. Play single player and a lot of online shooters (CoD, BF, etc) and also play a lot of Final Fantasy 14 online which requires twitch timing on boss fights. Also delve into games that have a lot of QTE which have to be very accurate.
> 
> Saying all that, I have NEVER had an issue with the X500R, my kill counts have not wavered coming from a Panny 8000 which had substantially lower input lag (about 35ms). Hell I finished CoD:BO3 on REALISTIC on the X500, if input lag was an issue this would not have been possible as pretty much 1 shot and you are dead.
> 
> When it comes down to it, an input lag of 140 or so is a total of about 4 lost frames from a 60fps refresh. That is 4 missing frame PER SECOND. Practically invisible to the eye.
> 
> Unless you are playing on a professional level, there is not a snowballs chance in hell this will affect you, and even then, I would be willing to bet most pro gamers in a blind side by side would not know the difference.
> 
> Do not be fooled folks, the JVC is perfectly capable of gaming and it looks downright amazing on the JVC projectors thanks to their black levels.
> 
> So if input lag is your only deciding factor, go with the JVC.


Wrong thread to promote anything else..


----------



## cofn42

Bufftweaker said:


> I wish but the JVC is 50% more expensive. No contest in sub 3k range.


Agreed on that!


----------



## cofn42

Ronman79 said:


> I have to say that this is very contradictory info, and if true, is also very encouraging to someone like me who's on the fence. However, you are in the extreme minority to say so....
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


I think honestly the issue is that the vast majority of people have never tried it.

Now this is not surprising at all, who has the cash to blow on a projector that "may" work, so they jump on the "OMG, 140ms lag will make your game unplayable" train. When in really would likely not even know it if they tried. 

They are in the same camp as the PC crowd that will scream doom and gloom if their game runs at 89fps instead of 90fps, claiming it is game breaking because they are missing 1 fps, when in reality without faps on they would have no clue. 

What people of not realize is 140ms is .14 of a second. POINT ONE FOUR! One 8th of a second. 

If someone is telling you that the reason they are not getting kills in CoD online is because of that 1/8 of a second, they are full of crap. The vast majority of people like to blame their lack of gaming prowess on anything but their ability. 

I hear it all the damn time, "oh man, i am lagging so bad, that is why i suck tonight" No, you suck most of the time, and this just gives them something else to blame. 

Just take gaming lag with a grain of salt, it is not nearly as bad as the nay sayers would have you believe.


----------



## cofn42

shepdog said:


> I just don't understand.
> 
> I've read the entire other thread and it's pretty clear that 99.9% say if you can swing the cash buy the JVC.
> 
> There are several JVC owners over there who state that lag is not a issue. I don't understand why JVC owners are so insistent on telling us the merits of their projector. Trust me we get it. It's the best under 10k and some would say 15k. I'm glad you guys love it but I love mine also.
> 
> We complained in the other thread and were told to create a official Epson thread to stop the JVC talk.
> 
> If a person does not understand the greatness of JVC at this point than they never will.
> Rant over.


My apologies for invading this thread, I am in the market for a new projector and the x550 and the 6040 are at the top of my list, and on the first couple pages of this thread, there was talk about avoiding the JVC because of lag, I just wanted to clear the air about the subject. 

All I am saying is if the only deciding factor in your choice is lag, then keep an open mind, as the other projector is not an issue at all.


----------



## gnolivos

This is getting out of control. Please get back on topic guys.


----------



## c.kingsley

cofn42 said:


> I need to add my 2 cents about gaming and input lag here as it is being blown WAY out of proportion.
> 
> I was almost scared off of buying a X500r last year by folks here claiming it is "unplayable" on a JVC due to input lag.
> 
> It is total BS.
> 
> As a preface, I am a hardcore gamer, I play on all platforms including PC. I play on average 50 - 70 games a year. Play single player and a lot of online shooters (CoD, BF, etc) and also play a lot of Final Fantasy 14 online which requires twitch timing on boss fights. Also delve into games that have a lot of QTE which have to be very accurate.
> 
> Saying all that, I have NEVER had an issue with the X500R, my kill counts have not wavered coming from a Panny 8000 which had substantially lower input lag (about 35ms). Hell I finished CoD:BO3 on REALISTIC on the X500, if input lag was an issue this would not have been possible as pretty much 1 shot and you are dead.
> 
> When it comes down to it, an input lag of 140 or so is a total of about 4 lost frames from a 60fps refresh. *That is 4 missing frame PER SECOND. Practically invisible to the eye.
> *
> Unless you are playing on a professional level, there is not a snowballs chance in hell this will affect you, and even then, I would be willing to bet most pro gamers in a blind side by side would not know the difference.
> 
> Do not be fooled folks, the JVC is perfectly capable of gaming and it looks downright amazing on the JVC projectors thanks to their black levels.
> 
> So if input lag is your only deciding factor, go with the JVC.


What you are saying is not correct. The frames aren't missing at all. The display outputs 60 frames per second but they are delayed on screen by 140ms from reality. As you move your control, the action on screen is occurring with a 140ms delay to the input. This causes overcompensation and a necessary lack of precision during fine movement because your brain hasn't received the visual outcome it expected to occur. Whether _you_ can perceive this or not is irrelevant. Anyone who plays online games will be at a significant disadvantage on a JVC vs an Epson. Black levels are king for video but they don't improve contents between live human beings. That's a fact. The delay is not only perceptible to a trained gamer, it is obvious, distracting and a significant disadvantage in any competitive play. This is why pro PC gamers use monitors with sub-5ms input lag.

Don't take anyone's word for this. Take your console or HTPC to a brick and mortar store and plug it in, demo the games you enjoy, demo and decide for yourself. I find the delay to be debilitating as do many others and I'm hardly a pro gamer.


----------



## cofn42

c.kingsley said:


> What you are saying is not correct. The frames aren't missing at all. The display outputs 60 frames per second but they are delayed on screen by 140ms from reality. As you move your control, the action on screen is occurring with a 140ms delay to the input. This causes overcompensation and a necessary lack of precision during fine movement because your brain hasn't received the visual outcome it expected to occur. Whether _you_ can perceive this or not is irrelevant. Anyone who plays online games will be at a significant disadvantage on a JVC vs an Epson. Black levels are king for video but they don't improve contents between live human beings. That's a fact. The delay is not only perceptible to a trained gamer, it is obvious, distracting and a significant disadvantage in any competitive play. This is why pro PC gamers use monitors with sub-5ms input lag.
> 
> Don't take anyone's word for this. Take your console or HTPC to a brick and mortar store and plug it in, demo the games you enjoy, demo and decide for yourself. I find the delay to be debilitating as do many others and I'm hardly a pro gamer.


I was putting it into a way people can understand, I know the frames are not missing, but it is the equivalent of being out by about 4 frames. 

As I stated in my other response above, 140ms is about 1/8 of a second, I would love to see someone who claims that input lag is an issue to try this out on a system with 30ms and one with 140 and see if they can tell a difference, because the vast majority will not. 

People hear it is a bad, get on the band wagon, and then spew misinformation around based on never having tried it themselves. 

I have experienced close to 2000hours of gaming since I picked up the x500r last year, and I can tell you first hand, that it is way over blown. If someone who plays as much as I do is not impacted, then about 90% of the folks out there are not going to have an issue. 

Sure there may be a minority, but they will be few and far between, much like some of us are sensitive to DLP rainbows, but that does not mean the vast majority are. 

You are right about one thing though, if it is a concern, take your system to a local store and ask to try it and assess for yourself.


----------



## shepdog




----------



## shepdog




----------



## canillo

I am not a gamer..just a movie lover... and the fact the the epson is not able to provide 18gbps is a turn off. That means no 4k 60p at 4.4.4. I tought it was a software problem but it looks like is the chip in the epaon that can not handle the data . While the jvc I believe has no problem providing theae features. Really considering returning the epson


----------



## c.kingsley

cofn42 said:


> You are right about one thing though, if it is a concern, take your system to a local store and ask to try it and assess for yourself.


We can certainly agree on this point. For those who it is a problem, it is on the same level as the rainbow effect on DLP (which incidentally I also suffer from).


----------



## WynsWrld98

canillo said:


> I am not a gamer..just a movie lover... and the fact the the epson is not able to provide 18gbps is a turn off. That means no 4k 60p at 4.4.4. I tought it was a software problem but it looks like is the chip in the epaon that can not handle the data . While the jvc I believe has no problem providing theae features. Really considering returning the epson


What does this really mean for the Epson? What sources provide 4K 60p? Ultra HD movies or 4K streaming of movies are 4K 24p, right? What is 4K 60p? Just trying to understand what sources limit what the Epson 5040/6040 can do.


----------



## c.kingsley

WynsWrld98 said:


> What does this really mean for the Epson? What sources provide 4K 60p? Ultra HD movies or 4K streaming of movies are 4K 24p, right? What is 4K 60p? Just trying to understand what sources limit what the Epson 5040/6040 can do.


This would be PC or console input primarily today. The manual states it supports 4k x 2k @ 60hz via HDMI, so I wouldn't write it off until more information comes out. There is only one UHD player that is working currently with this projector (Phillips) so I think there are some false conclusions being drawn as the reviewers making these claims are not using a known compatible player.


----------



## gnolivos

canillo said:


> I am not a gamer..just a movie lover... and the fact the the epson is not able to provide 18gbps is a turn off. That means no 4k 60p at 4.4.4. I tought it was a software problem but it looks like is the chip in the epaon that can not handle the data . While the jvc I believe has no problem providing theae features. Really considering returning the epson




I wouldn't worry. Blurays with eshift look superb (especially those mastered with high quality). 4K feeds are gonna look better, so I'm excited for that. Not really worried about specs. As long as this will stay compatible with 4K feeds, or the vast vast majority, I wouldn't worry personally. As long as it looks jaw dropping to YOU then stick with it.


----------



## canillo

shepdog said:


> *This was posted on the other thread but great information.
> 
> Thank you zombie10k*
> 
> 
> 
> zombie10k said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://hdtvpolska.com/epson-eh-tw9300w-test-projektora-lcd-4k-ultra-hd/
> 
> potential owners should read through this review, one of the most thorough I've seen on the 5040 so far.
> _
> "HDMI 1, although it works in a standard 2.0a supports HDCP 2.2,* it is limited to 340MHz.* This means that it can accept the resolution 4Kp60 / 4Kp50 format only 8-bit 4: 2: 0. __* It does not provide 18Gbps capacity* "
> 
> _This looks like it will cause an immediate issue with the Samsung player which doesn't play nice with the bandwidth constrained 10.2Gbps chipsets.
> 
> _Unfortunately, not every player is in such a situation easily. Samsung BD-KU8500, for example, refuses to cooperate and degrades the signal to 8 bit without HDR and a wide palette of colors. Xbox One S does not want to specify the content of HDR._
> 
> 
> It does look like they got HDR working correctly with the $699 US Panasonic UB900 but only after very specific settings that are in the review.
> 
> HDR1 mode 1 looks like it's clips whites aggressively, HDR2 looks like a better choice.
Click to expand...

according to this review the panasonic is able to feed that content but the Epson was not able to handle it. I am a fan of the Frame interpolation and like how movies look with it on. If the FI worked with 4k 24p material it wouldnt bother me since I believe the FI would compensate for the missing frames. When I called Epson about this matter it looks like the people on the phone do not fully understand the technical side to this proyector. I feel like Im asking quiestions that are way outta their knowledge, even when I asked to be trasnferred to a tech specialist. Ive got 40 days left on my return window , hopefully All questions will be answered before then. I understand AVS FORUM members will be having a meeting with Epson on CEDIA. It would be nice if they could take note on all these isssues and get back to us with some answers from the people who desinged and fully understand the capabilities of the Epson 5040ub, because it looks like the 4k 60p 4.4.4 and HDR content handling has been the only complaint about this great product.


----------



## canillo

does anyone think this image looks washed out? this is my first proyector and I can only compare it to my 65 samsung 4k tv. And the proyector does not come close to the samsung. I would like to know if its the settings ( bright cinema) or my screen( white elune vision reference studio 4k tab tensioned) .I have black and dark grey walls but my ceiling is white and speakers are close to the screen reflecting some of the light. I hear everyone talking about image popping out and vibrant colors and I feel mine is washed out. I have to say...some images( dark) look less washed out. anyone have and idea what could be the problem? proyector settings, screen, white ceiling, i feel like the elune screen is a step up from some of the screens used from a few of our members and at least in the pics they post their image looks better. I would really appreciate any advise, maybe this is the reason im paying too much attention to the 4k 60p handling issue, because I may not be seeing the real beauty of this proyector.
the images are being upscaled not native 4k content.


----------



## shepdog

canillo said:


> does anyone think this image looks washed out? this is my first proyector and I can only compare it to my 65 samsung 4k tv. And the proyector does not come close to the samsung. I would like to know if its the settings ( bright cinema) or my screen( white elune vision reference studio 4k tab tensioned) .I have black and dark grey walls but my ceiling is white and speakers are close to the screen reflecting some of the light. I hear everyone talking about image popping out and vibrant colors and I feel mine is washed out. I have to say...some images( dark) look less washed out. anyone have and idea what could be the problem? proyector settings, screen, white ceiling, i feel like the elune screen is a step up from some of the screens used from a few of our members and at least in the pics they post their image looks better. I would really appreciate any advise, maybe this is the reason im paying too much attention to the 4k 60p handling issue, because I may not be seeing the real beauty of this proyector.
> the images are being upscaled not native 4k content.




I haven't experienced anything I would consider washed out. 

I don't have a 2nd 4K tv to compare but I routinely watch my 65" plasma which is not shabby. I don't see much difference. Up close the plasma is obviously brighter but at 12-15 ft it's really not a contest for me. I thought I would need to use cinema bright but routinely use digital cinema on medium power and it's fine. 

I can't comment on HDR because I don't have a bd player yet. However I watched the 4K series Strange Things on Netflix which has quite a few dark and nighttime scenes. It never felt dim. It just looked amazing.


----------



## gnolivos

White ceiling might be an issue. Pics don't look too bad to me though. Just put up a velvet masking on the first few feet of the ceiling near screen. It will likely make a difference.


----------



## canillo

gnolivos said:


> White ceiling might be an issue. Pics don't look too bad to me though. Just put up a velvet masking on the first few feet of the ceiling near screen. It will likely make a difference.


yes ...I will paint it black to see if it makes a difference...they are not TOO bad you are 100% correct....but I feel like $5,000 worth of equipment should give me a great image and not an ok image.


----------



## gnolivos

Use flat black. Behr Mickey Mouse ears is a good option.


----------



## canillo

gnolivos said:


> Use flat black. Behr Mickey Mouse ears is a good option.


thats what I used for that wall and it works great...I still have some left. thanks for the advice. I will also shut of the lights of all my components too...notices my crown amp and panamax lights are very bright. thanks


----------



## Twids

Hi all,

I have a couple of questions of you wouldn't mind helping out.

1.) Does the 5040UB support frame interpolation of 3D content?

2.) Has the input lag been confirmed to be around 30ms?

Thanks.


----------



## JewDaddy

Twids said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have a couple of questions of you wouldn't mind helping out.
> 
> 1.) Does the 5040UB support frame interpolation of 3D content?
> 
> 2.) Has the input lag been confirmed to be around 30ms?
> 
> Thanks.


1) Yes

2) Yes. The input lag is so much better than the 5030 and you don't even need to use Fast Mode. It's pretty amazing.


----------



## Ronman79

Twids said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have a couple of questions of you wouldn't mind helping out.
> 
> 1.) Does the 5040UB support frame interpolation of 3D content?
> 
> 2.) Has the input lag been confirmed to be around 30ms?
> 
> Thanks.


Not sure about FI for 3d, but yes on 30 ms lag. I've seen some report slightly less. Not sure which ones, but it definitely has been confirmed by multiple reviewers to be at or around 30. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jasinto

i was reading controversial opinion here earlier

please one owner how check

using e-shift 1080 to 4k is enabled FI?

and if source is configured to 4k and the source upscale to 4k I dont have FI at all and disabled options in the menu?




Saludos


----------



## dataJunkie

Quick question.

I currently have a Benq 1070 hooked up to a PC with a Radeon R280x.

If I upgrade the card to a GTX 1070, and the projector to the Epson 5040UB, will the projector be able to handle 1440p gaming @ 60fps? 

Confused due to the 'faux k' element of the picture handling, would there be any issues gaming on this projector beyond 1080p?

thanks!

n


----------



## JewDaddy

Jasinto said:


> i was reading controversial opinion here earlier
> 
> please one owner how check
> 
> using e-shift 1080 to 4k is enabled FI?
> 
> and if source is configured to 4k and the source upscale to 4k I dont have FI at all and disabled options in the menu?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saludos


So here's how that works. When you feed a 4K source to the projector whether it's a blu-Ray or Netflix 4K or even a standard blu-Ray with the player set to output 4K as the resolution, no FI is available. There is a way to get FI with standard non 4K blu Rays and still use the 4K enhancement option. You just have to set your player to 1080p and then you can use FI all you want. The only time you can't use the 4K enhancement option with FI is if it's a non blu Ray source. For instance, if your watching Netflix in 1080p and you have the 4K enhancement option on, no FI. Watching direct tv or other cable provider of your choice in 1080p with 4K enhancement on, no FI. But a blu-Ray playing at 24p allows you to use 4K enhancement with FI. Just don't get 4K enhancement confused with 4K e-shift. Two totally separate things. Anything output in 4K resolution will have the FI option greyed out. Hope that makes sense.


----------



## Jasinto

> blu-Ray playing at 24p allows you to use 4K enhancement with FI


only


a lot more precise now



Saludos


----------



## muad'dib

I posted this in another Epson thread, but figured here might be best as i want these models.. 


I need to know for 100% before ordering this projector.. 
I will be doing 4k/60 HDR gaming in future... 

So, what I understand, is that this is not possible with these epsons? 
And that 4k/24 hdr is possible.. 

Or can you choose 4k/60 4:2:2 hdr and have that work? 


As I just got a xbox slim, and want to upscale games to 4k/60 and play them in HDR when they come out.. 
Thrn next year get the xbox Scorpio.. 
Thanks 

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk


----------



## canillo

JewDaddy said:


> Jasinto said:
> 
> 
> 
> i was reading controversial opinion here earlier
> 
> please one owner how check
> 
> using e-shift 1080 to 4k is enabled FI?
> 
> and if source is configured to 4k and the source upscale to 4k I dont have FI at all and disabled options in the menu?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Saludos
> 
> 
> 
> So here's how that works. When you feed a 4K source to the projector whether it's a blu-Ray or Netflix 4K or even a standard blu-Ray with the player set to output 4K as the resolution, no FI is available. There is a way to get FI with standard non 4K blu Rays and still use the 4K enhancement option. You just have to set your player to 1080p and then you can use FI all you want. The only time you can't use the 4K enhancement option with FI is if it's a non blu Ray source. For instance, if your watching Netflix in 1080p and you have the 4K enhancement option on, no FI. Watching direct tv or other cable provider of your choice in 1080p with 4K enhancement on, no FI. But a blu-Ray playing at 24p allows you to use 4K enhancement with FI. Just don't get 4K enhancement confused with 4K e-shift. Two totally separate things. Anything output in 4K resolution will have the FI option greyed out. Hope that makes sense.
Click to expand...

where do you chose between these 2? as far as I know the 4k enhancement uses the 4k eshift. There is no enhancement with out the eshift. In my epson there is absolutly no way to use FI and 4k enhancment at the same time. no matter what the source is. If you can please post a pic of the settings using both, maybe I have something wrong in my set up


----------



## Foo Katan

dataJunkie said:


> Quick question.
> 
> I currently have a Benq 1070 hooked up to a PC with a Radeon R280x.
> 
> If I upgrade the card to a GTX 1070, and the projector to the Epson 5040UB, will the projector be able to handle 1440p gaming @ 60fps?
> 
> Confused due to the 'faux k' element of the picture handling, would there be any issues gaming on this projector beyond 1080p?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> n


Actually 1440p @ 60hz is its sweet spot for PC gaming, this is what I use. See the link here where I did some resolution tests of 1080p, 1440p and 2160p using different ehancement options.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2491081-epson-5040ub-2999-e-shift-4k-hdr10-wcg-powered-lens-position-memory-56.html#post46367929


----------



## JewDaddy

canillo said:


> where do you chose between these 2? as far as I know the 4k enhancement uses the 4k eshift. There is no enhancement with out the eshift. In my epson there is absolutly no way to use FI and 4k enhancment at the same time. no matter what the source is. If you can please post a pic of the settings using both, maybe I have something wrong in my set up


Ok, here's how you do it. Whatever 4K player you have, change the resolution to 1080P. Make sure 24P is set to on or auto. Pop any blu-ray in and once it starts, Pull up the Menu on your Epson, Under the Image tab choose Advanced. There should be an option called 4K enhancement. Turn that on. You should still be able to turn the FI on as long as its outputting a 1080P signal. Try it and let me know if it works.

Just keep in mind that 4K enhancement with FI only works if the resolution is 1080p and you're watching a blu-ray. It does not work with Netflix, Hulu, or anything besides a movie because it's playing it at 24p. Hope this makes sense.


----------



## JewDaddy

So I looked at a brochure for the Epson 5040 and noticed a note at the bottom saying Frame Interpolation 1080P 24HZ 

Dangit!!!! Guess that confirms it :-(


----------



## canillo

JewDaddy said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> where do you chose between these 2? as far as I know the 4k enhancement uses the 4k eshift. There is no enhancement with out the eshift. In my epson there is absolutly no way to use FI and 4k enhancment at the same time. no matter what the source is. If you can please post a pic of the settings using both, maybe I have something wrong in my set up
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, here's how you do it. Whatever 4K player you have, change the resolution to 1080P. Make sure 24P is set to on or auto. Pop any blu-ray in and once it starts, Pull up the Menu on your Epson, Under the Image tab choose Advanced. There should be an option called 4K enhancement. Turn that on. You should still be able to turn the FI on as long as its outputting a 1080P signal. Try it and let me know if it works.
> 
> Just keep in mind that 4K enhancement with FI only works if the resolution is 1080p and you're watching a blu-ray. It does not work with Netflix, Hulu, or anything besides a movie because it's playing it at 24p. Hope this makes sense.
Click to expand...

So i have a regular 1080p bluray player that upscales to 4k. I turned off the upscaling , I was getting a 1080p at 60hz native signal. was able to turn on FI but not the 4k enhancement. Turned on the 4k enhancement and the FI got blocked.


----------



## JewDaddy

canillo said:


> So i have a regular 1080p bluray player that upscales to 4k. I turned off the upscaling , I was getting a 1080p at 60hz native signal. was able to turn on FI but not the 4k enhancement. Turned on the 4k enhancement and the FI got blocked.


Have to make sure the player is outputting 24p in order to get them both to work.


----------



## gnolivos

JewDaddy said:


> Have to make sure the player is outputting 24p in order to get them both to work.




Ok this is indeed how it works for me using a PlayStation three as a Blu-ray player, outputting at 24p. 

I am however confused by your earlier statement. 4K and hands meant and e-shift is synonymous in this projector, no? You turn on 4K enhancement option, and the projector will take a 1080 P signal, interpolate it up to 4K, and switch on the eshift on the projector for double the pixel count. No?


----------



## JewDaddy

gnolivos said:


> Ok this is indeed how it works for me using a PlayStation three as a Blu-ray player, outputting at 24p.
> 
> I am however confused by your earlier statement. 4K and hands meant and e-shift is synonymous in this projector, no? You turn on 4K enhancement option, and the projector will take a 1080 P signal, interpolate it up to 4K, and switch on the eshift on the projector for double the pixel count. No?


4K E shift is when the projector is outputting a 4K resolution. It's not true 4K but it still accepts a 4K signal and creates a faux 4K. 4K enhancement is completely separate. In fact, when you're watching a 4K resolution, the 4K enhancement option is greyed out. The 4K enhancement works like a detail enhancement option does and adds some extra detail to a 1080p signal. I don't know if this exactly the right way of explaining it but that's what I'm thinking.


----------



## gnolivos

Ok we're saying the same thing then !thanks.


----------



## Spoonsey

canillo said:


> does anyone think this image looks washed out? this is my first proyector and I can only compare it to my 65 samsung 4k tv. And the proyector does not come close to the samsung. I would like to know if its the settings ( bright cinema) or my screen( white elune vision reference studio 4k tab tensioned) .I have black and dark grey walls but my ceiling is white and speakers are close to the screen reflecting some of the light. I hear everyone talking about image popping out and vibrant colors and I feel mine is washed out. I have to say...some images( dark) look less washed out. anyone have and idea what could be the problem? proyector settings, screen, white ceiling, i feel like the elune screen is a step up from some of the screens used from a few of our members and at least in the pics they post their image looks better. I would really appreciate any advise, maybe this is the reason im paying too much attention to the 4k 60p handling issue, because I may not be seeing the real beauty of this proyector.
> the images are being upscaled not native 4k content.


Not sure if these will help but here some pictures from the same movie on my *5030* in 1080p, THX colour mode. I also have light coloured walls, ceiling and carpet.


----------



## canillo

gnolivos said:


> Ok we're saying the same thing then !thanks.[/QUOTE
> 
> 4k eshift =ability to accept and project a 4 k signal using pixel shift.
> 4k enhancement= ability to upscale a 1080p content to 4k content.
> 
> 4k eshift can work on its own if the source is 4k native content ..no need for 4k enhancement.
> 4k enchancement work with 4k eshift ...because it upscales a non 4k source then sends the data and 4k eshift does the last proccesing.


----------



## canillo

canillo said:


> gnolivos said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok we're saying the same thing then !thanks.[/QUOTE
> 
> 4k eshift =ability to accept and project a 4 k signal using pixel shift.
> 4k enhancement= ability to upscale a 1080p content to 4k content.
> 
> 4k eshift can work on its own if the source is 4k native content ..no need for 4k enhancement.
> 4k enchancement work with 4k eshift ...because it upscales a non 4k source then sends the data and 4k eshift does the last proccesing.
> 
> 
> 
> dont know why the last messege got mixed with the quote!.
Click to expand...


----------



## canillo

Spoonsey said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> does anyone think this image looks washed out? this is my first proyector and I can only compare it to my 65 samsung 4k tv. And the proyector does not come close to the samsung. I would like to know if its the settings ( bright cinema) or my screen( white elune vision reference studio 4k tab tensioned) .I have black and dark grey walls but my ceiling is white and speakers are close to the screen reflecting some of the light. I hear everyone talking about image popping out and vibrant colors and I feel mine is washed out. I have to say...some images( dark) look less washed out. anyone have and idea what could be the problem? proyector settings, screen, white ceiling, i feel like the elune screen is a step up from some of the screens used from a few of our members and at least in the pics they post their image looks better. I would really appreciate any advise, maybe this is the reason im paying too much attention to the 4k 60p handling issue, because I may not be seeing the real beauty of this proyector.
> the images are being upscaled not native 4k content.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if these will help but here some pictures from the same movie on my *5030* in 1080p, THX colour mode. I also have light coloured walls, ceiling and carpet.
Click to expand...

looks good...what screen do you have?


----------



## aaranddeeman

canillo said:


> gnolivos said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok we're saying the same thing then !thanks.[/QUOTE
> 
> 4k eshift =ability to accept and project a 4 k signal using pixel shift.
> 4k enhancement= ability to upscale a 1080p content to 4k content.
> 
> 4k eshift can work on its own if the source is 4k native content ..no need for 4k enhancement.
> 4k enchancement work with 4k eshift ...because it upscales a non 4k source then sends the data and 4k eshift does the last proccesing.
> 
> 
> 
> 4k eshift (JVC) = 4K Enhancement (Epson) = faux 4k = 4 million pixels only (not 8 million as with true 4k)
> 
> Don't confuse the different naming used by different brands.
Click to expand...


----------



## Spoonsey

canillo said:


> looks good...what screen do you have?


I have a Indigo 120" 16:9 fixed frame screen, acoustically transparent.


----------



## frenzy987

This news on the Epson only supporting 4:2:0 8 bit when displaying 4K/60 content has me a bit bummed out. I would love to see some 4K pictures of PC games if people get the time, or some impressions of the same.


----------



## ndabunka

A pic of my 5040 finally mounted...


----------



## Savatage316

ndabunka said:


> A pic of my 5040 finally mounted...


That's not the type of pics we wanna see man, get some display pics, stat!!


----------



## canillo

frenzy987 said:


> This news on the Epson only supporting 4:2:0 8 bit when displaying 4K/60 content has me a bit bummed out. I would love to see some 4K pictures of PC games if people get the time, or some impressions of the same.


news? where did it come out? any one knows how much is the difference from 4.2.0 to 4.4.4?


----------



## frenzy987

canillo said:


> news? where did it come out? any one knows how much is the difference from 4.2.0 to 4.4.4?


It's in the review that was linked at a few pages back, the Epson chip only supporting up to 10Gbps


----------



## gnolivos

I was lost on the topic of 4:2:0 etc and found this...

http://www.personal-view.com/talks/...video-explaining-444-422-and-420-for-noobs/p1


----------



## cuull

can anyone confirm input lag


----------



## Savatage316

cuull said:


> can anyone confirm input lag


Jewdaddy has confirmed it's rock solid. That was the biggest factor for me and I'll have mine tomorrow but from everything I've read it'a .30, .29ish


----------



## ClayM325

I just got my 5040 in my newly finished man cave (finished up everything late Saturday night, just in time for football!!) and I think its amazing. Its my first projector though so I have nothing to compare to but I love it. I have one little problem though, even though I have a 16:9 screen, and directv broadcasts in 16:9, I still have black lines (about 2.5") at top and bottom. I even had the lines before hooking up my satellite box when trying to align everything. Ive tried everything and cant get rid of them. Am I missing something?


----------



## aaranddeeman

ClayM325 said:


> I just got my 5040 in my newly finished man cave (finished up everything late Saturday night, just in time for football!!) and I think its amazing. Its my first projector though so I have nothing to compare to but I love it. I have one little problem though, even though I have a 16:9 screen, and directv broadcasts in 16:9, I still have black lines (about 2.5") at top and bottom. I even had the lines before hooking up my satellite box when trying to align everything. Ive tried everything and cant get rid of them. Am I missing something?


It all depends on the Aspect Ratio of the content. If you are watching movies it will typically preserve the 2.35:1 AR. 
If you are seeing the same with say news broadcasts, then check the setting in your direct tv STB.


----------



## shepdog

aaranddeeman said:


> It all depends on the Aspect Ratio of the content. If you are watching movies it will typically preserve the 2.35:1 AR.
> 
> If you are seeing the same with say news broadcasts, then check the setting in your direct tv STB.




Also check settings in your AVR. My receiver was set incorrectly


----------



## shepdog

gnolivos said:


> I was lost on the topic of 4:2:0 etc and found this...
> 
> http://www.personal-view.com/talks/...video-explaining-444-422-and-420-for-noobs/p1




Awesome. Now I have at least have a basic understanding


----------



## Mike Garrett

canillo said:


> news? where did it come out? any one knows how much is the difference from 4.2.0 to 4.4.4?


You are not going to get any projector with 4k 60, 4:4:4. That way exceeds the current HDMI spec.


----------



## ClayM325

aaranddeeman said:


> It all depends on the Aspect Ratio of the content. If you are watching movies it will typically preserve the 2.35:1 AR.
> If you are seeing the same with say news broadcasts, then check the setting in your direct tv STB.


The thing is, it was doing this before I even had content going to it (on the blue pattern screen). When I hit the aspect button on the remote, it wont let me change anything, other options other than what its on now are "blanked out" and unselectable



shepdog said:


> Also check settings in your AVR. My receiver was set incorrectly


See my comment above, could this still be causing it?


----------



## gnolivos

ClayM325 said:


> The thing is, it was doing this before I even had content going to it (on the blue pattern screen). When I hit the aspect button on the remote, it wont let me change anything, other options other than what its on now are "blanked out" and unselectable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See my comment above, could this still be causing it?




If you hit pattern button on remote, it does not fill your screen?!


----------



## ClayM325

gnolivos said:


> If you hit pattern button on remote, it does not fill your screen?!


That's correct, theres probly 2.5" on top and bottom even with the pattern.


----------



## gnolivos

ClayM325 said:


> That's correct, theres probly 2.5" on top and bottom even with the pattern.




Maybe your screen is not true 16:9? I can't think of anything else. The projector does not have a way to stretch the image vertically (optically or digitally) except for the aspect ratio functions which you say are not the culprit.


----------



## ClayM325

gnolivos said:


> Maybe your screen is not true 16:9? I can't think of anything else. The projector does not have a way to stretch the image vertically (optically or digitally) except for the aspect ratio functions which you say are not the culprit.


It is the Silver Ticket gray screen. Not sure why it wouldn't be but who knows. Any idea why the projector wont let me switch aspect ratios? Am I missing something there?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUQPIAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## gnolivos

I just thought of something. Can you take a picture of the pattern for us. ? Maybe you have digital masking top and bottom, which is an option on the settings. But that is not enabled by default. So it would be strange. Also measure the pattern circle left to right and top to bottom. Same dimension?


----------



## canillo

Mike Garrett said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> news? where did it come out? any one knows how much is the difference from 4.2.0 to 4.4.4?
> 
> 
> 
> You are not going to get any projector with 4k 60, 4:4:4. That way exceeds the current HDMI spec.
Click to expand...

Please read. 
http://procision.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL029571


----------



## shepdog

canillo said:


> Please read.
> http://procision.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL029571




Does compatible mean it displays the full spec or that it will accept it?


----------



## gnolivos

Accept it for sure. Display not likely but undisclosed, so I draw my own conclusions .


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

Mike Garrett said:


> You are not going to get any projector with 4k 60, 4:4:4. That way exceeds the current HDMI spec.


Not with 8-bit colour. 

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_0/hdmi_2_0_faq.aspx#146

But of course that's for 18gbps inputs. 

Sadly, as much as I was considering getting this projector despite the lack of FI at 4K, not being able to do 444 at UHD / 60 is definitely a dealbreaker for me because I use my projector for windows desktop.

Too bad. Epson, I hardly knew ye.


----------



## ndabunka

RLBURNSIDE said:


> Not with 8-bit colour.
> 
> http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_0/hdmi_2_0_faq.aspx#146
> 
> But of course that's for 18gbps inputs.
> 
> Sadly, as much as I was considering getting this projector despite the lack of FI at 4K, not being able to do 444 at UHD / 60 is definitely a dealbreaker for me because I use my projector for windows desktop.
> 
> Too bad. Epson, I hardly knew ye.


 Perhaps you were in the wrong (under $3K) forum all along? Hopefully you have a pocket full of cash to get you what you "need".


----------



## shepdog

RLBURNSIDE said:


> Not with 8-bit colour.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_0/hdmi_2_0_faq.aspx#146
> 
> 
> 
> But of course that's for 18gbps inputs.
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly, as much as I was considering getting this projector despite the lack of FI at 4K, not being able to do 444 at UHD / 60 is definitely a dealbreaker for me because I use my projector for windows desktop.
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad. Epson, I hardly knew ye.




So which projector do you currently use that does what you need?

I'm trying desperately to stay up to speed on the different tech


----------



## Savatage316

Still waiting for my 5040ub to arrive. So in a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the best, how blown away am I going to be??


----------



## ndabunka

ClayM325 said:


> ...even though I have a 16:9 screen, and directv broadcasts in 16:9, I still have black lines (about 2.5") at top and bottom...Am I missing something?


Probably. What is the width and height measurements of the screen? What is the measurement (top-to-bottom) of the projected image?


----------



## ndabunka

Savatage316 said:


> Still waiting for my 5040ub to arrive. So in a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the best, how blown away am I going to be??


11. Unless you are expecting it to do something un-realistic like exceeding the performance of a $30K projector which


----------



## Savatage316

ndabunka said:


> 11. Unless you are expecting it to do something un-realistic like exceeding the performance of a $30K projector which


Aw man really, won't out perform a 30k projector?? Refusing the package!! 

I just wish this sucker would get here already


----------



## Mike Garrett

canillo said:


> Please read.
> http://procision.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL029571


That is at 8 bit. Thought you were asking about 10 bit?


----------



## Pendraegon

Has anyone had luck with this projector and the Xbox one s? I've heard that they don't work well together at least for hdr, can it at least do 4k? Is the Phillips uhd player the only one that can currently do hdr with the 5040? Thanks


----------



## rupedogg24

Savatage316 said:


> Still waiting for my 5040ub to arrive. So in a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the best, how blown away am I going to be??


A 10 in my eyes. Loving my purchase the more I spend time with it. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## ftw85

*5040ub/Elite Aeon 3D 120"*

This is my first projector/HT setup. Getting the projector mounted was iffy (more cause of the ceiling mount) Screen install was simple but i think the alignment of my screen and projector is off and perhaps the throw distance isn't at the best distance. (I had to zoom in, lens shift, and play with the warp to get it somewhat to match my unleveled screen. lol

The projector itself I'm happy with it. I already spent 30+ hours watch film, tv, and playing video games on it. Here are some pics.


----------



## ftw85

shepdog said:


> I don't know but Epson and Samsung have acknowledge the Samsung player does not pass HDR to the Epson.
> 
> Couple owners on here have stated the same and traded the Samsung in for the Philips.
> 
> I'm personally waiting on the oppo



Apparently i couldn't get the player to pass to my 4k 55in Samsung curve TV. Creed kept saying no HDR capabilities. SMH


----------



## Savatage316

My main question is does this projector pop like say lcd screens do in terms of sharpness and colors? 

I know at projector screen sizes at this price tag there are always small tradeoffs but overall does a projector like this take things to a whole other level with image quality? Like someone said they can't tell the difference between this and their 4k HDTV I think it was. 

That's sort of what in excited about is just having that never level experience


----------



## shepdog

Savatage316 said:


> My main question is does this projector pop like say lcd screens do in terms of sharpness and colors?
> 
> 
> 
> I know at projector screen sizes at this price tag there are always small tradeoffs but overall does a projector like this take things to a whole other level with image quality? Like someone said they can't tell the difference between this and their 4k HDTV I think it was.
> 
> 
> 
> That's sort of what in excited about is just having that never level experience




For me yes

Your experience may be different. Up close I like the lg oled better but not by much. 

I haven't seen a hdtv I would trade for this projector. The clarity is great. The colors are great and you can't compensate for the size. No matter how good the hdtv may be its still a tiny screen compared to 120"


----------



## ndabunka

Pendraegon said:


> Has anyone had luck with this projector and the Xbox one s? I've heard that they don't work well together at least for hdr, can it at least do 4k? Is the Phillips uhd player the only one that can currently do hdr with the 5040? Thanks


That's a no-go on the Xbox 1S. The Panasonic works well with the 5040 which may be a better option than the Phillips assuming you don't mind spending twice the $'s for it


----------



## Savatage316

shepdog said:


> For me yes
> 
> Your experience may be different. Up close I like the lg oled better but not by much.
> 
> I haven't seen a hdtv I would trade for this projector. The clarity is great. The colors are great and you can't compensate for the size. No matter how good the hdtv may be its still a tiny screen compared to 120"


That's great to hear, that's what I'm pumped about is I have a nice projector now but it wasn't in the same echelon as something like this Epson. To hear you wouldn't take an HDTV over this pumps me up even more


----------



## jgriffin99

Not sure if stated elsewhere (couldn't find it) in this thread or not. Does anyone know the throw ratios when using Lens Memory? Or more specifically, do the throw ratios change when using Lens Memory? I am interested in using it for 2.35:1 but my throw isn't very long, about 14.5' from a 130" Cinemascope screen. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## gnolivos

VUDU via PS3 at 1080p with eshift.


----------



## ClayM325

gnolivos said:


> I just thought of something. Can you take a picture of the pattern for us. ? Maybe you have digital masking top and bottom, which is an option on the settings. But that is not enabled by default. So it would be strange. Also measure the pattern circle left to right and top to bottom. Same dimension?


The circle of the pattern is 52.75" wide, and 50" tall. And I thought it was round...
The pics below are of top and bottom. For some reason whenever I post pics on here it rotates them 90 degrees. Its a little more towards the top but I know that's just a matter of me bringing the ladder back in to adjust.


----------



## Savatage316

First things first.... It's huge lmao!! Wow it's large. 

Is this thing actually only 24lbs, feels heavier than that.


----------



## canillo

Savatage316 said:


> My main question is does this projector pop like say lcd screens do in terms of sharpness and colors?
> 
> I know at projector screen sizes at this price tag there are always small tradeoffs but overall does a projector like this take things to a whole other level with image quality? Like someone said they can't tell the difference between this and their 4k HDTV I think it was.
> 
> That's sort of what in excited about is just having that never level experience


Nop...it will never match a 4k samsung or lg tv. It is just not possible...not even the projectors in the commercial movie theaters can do such thing. A tv projects it own light and the colors are just unmatchable by a projector at any price point. But no tv will give you that movie experience like a projector. As much as I love my 65 4k samsung TV, now its just my Tv .....and the projector is my baby.You cannot compare it to a 4k hi end tv but as soon as you plug that baby in you will no longer care for a tv


----------



## frenzy987

RLBURNSIDE said:


> Not with 8-bit colour.
> 
> http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_0/hdmi_2_0_faq.aspx#146
> 
> But of course that's for 18gbps inputs.
> 
> Sadly, as much as I was considering getting this projector despite the lack of FI at 4K, not being able to do 444 at UHD / 60 is definitely a dealbreaker for me because I use my projector for windows desktop.
> 
> Too bad. Epson, I hardly knew ye.


This is my concern as well, the primary use for this would be for my windows desktop. I would either be playing games at 4K or upscaling from 1440P (depending on how demanding the game was). Hence why I would love to see some pics/impressions of 4K/60 through a PC, it's not an easy thing to test at a shop/showroom. Does this limitation of the Epson also mean HDR is unable to be used at 4K/60?


----------



## Savatage316

So here's my first issue. Can't seem to increase the size any further. I expand the picture but it stops, no way it's close to my screen size. What am I missing?


----------



## canillo

frenzy987 said:


> RLBURNSIDE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not with 8-bit colour.
> 
> http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_0/hdmi_2_0_faq.aspx#146
> 
> But of course that's for 18gbps inputs.
> 
> Sadly, as much as I was considering getting this projector despite the lack of FI at 4K, not being able to do 444 at UHD / 60 is definitely a dealbreaker for me because I use my projector for windows desktop.
> 
> Too bad. Epson, I hardly knew ye.
> 
> 
> 
> This is my concern as well, the primary use for this would be for my windows desktop. I would either be playing games at 4K or upscaling from 1440P (depending on how demanding the game was). Hence why I would love to see some pics/impressions of 4K/60 through a PC, it's not an easy thing to test at a shop/showroom. Does this limitation of the Epson also mean HDR is unable to be used at 4K/60?
Click to expand...

so far HDR content on the epson depends on the type of player being used...i belive the panasonic is the best option but its really expensive..a new panasonic with almost the same feautures as the one available now will be realeased for almost have the price.


----------



## canillo

Savatage316 said:


> So here's my first issue. Can't seem to increase the size any further. I expand the picture but it stops, no way it's close to my screen size. What am I missing?


have you checked your keystone settings? just to make sure that is not causing the issue..supposed to be set at 0


----------



## Savatage316

Yea, keystone is at 0...this screen is like 90 inches I'd say. I can't get it to zoom out any further, hmmmm


----------



## canillo

canillo said:


> Savatage316 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So here's my first issue. Can't seem to increase the size any further. I expand the picture but it stops, no way it's close to my screen size. What am I missing?
> 
> 
> 
> have you checked your keystone settings? just to make sure that is not causing the issue..supposed to be set at 0
Click to expand...

I just saw toyr pics....i have the same problem with my screen. You can put the image down a bit and make the space even on both sides..making it less notacible


----------



## canillo

Savatage316 said:


> Yea, keystone is at 0...this screen is like 90 inches I'd say. I can't get it to zoom out any further, hmmmm


how far are you projecting from the screen?


----------



## Savatage316

Yea that was my issue, I at first had it in my living room but it was to close and wasn't thinking about that. I put it on a desk in my main room and the distance is great now. 

It's definitely a gorgeous picture that's for sure. 

Is there a way to actually bring up or test the input lag?


----------



## canillo

painted my ceillings black.OMG!!!that makes all the diference...I feel I do get a better image. Im going to pick up some velvet for the speakers.


----------



## canillo

canillo said:


> painted my ceillings black.OMG!!!that makes all the diference...I feel I do get a better image. Im going to pick up some velvet for the speakers.


the blues look more natural in person. The samsung alters it


----------



## ClayM325

ndabunka said:


> Probably. What is the width and height measurements of the screen? What is the measurement (top-to-bottom) of the projected image?


The screen measures 96x54. The projected image is full width, and about 51" tall.


----------



## frenzy987

canillo said:


> so far HDR content on the epson depends on the type of player being used...i belive the panasonic is the best option but its really expensive..a new panasonic with almost the same feautures as the one available now will be realeased for almost have the price.


I was thinking more from the PC, games are just starting to utilise HDR, for example Forza Horizon 3 which is out next week, my video card supports HDR but am not sure if you can run HDR with the epson at 4K/60.


----------



## ndabunka

ClayM325 said:


> The circle of the pattern is 52.75" wide, and 50" tall. And I thought it was round...


It IS suppose to be round.

My 16:9 110" diagonal screen measuring EXACTLY 95x54 has a perfect circle with a 53" diameter. It's a bit trickey at the top & bottom on the test pattern as the box blocks out the extension at those points but you can measure anywhere across the circle and it should be a steady 53" diameter. Have you called Epson to see if perhaps your projector's lens may have a defect?


----------



## gnolivos

You're not projecting straight onto your screen, is my guess. It's slightly up or down. Or maybe left/right. You must project straight and THEN use lens shift to get it centered. The circle needs to be perfect.


----------



## k3nnis

ndabunka said:


> It IS suppose to be round.
> 
> My 16:9 110" diagonal screen measuring EXACTLY 95x54 has a perfect circle with a 53" diameter. It's a bit trickey at the top & bottom on the test pattern as the box blocks out the extension at those points but you can measure anywhere across the circle and it should be a steady 53" diameter. Have you called Epson to see if perhaps your projector's lens may have a defect?


Hi,

Do you have pics of your setup? I plan to get a 110" screen as well just want to see how it looks like size wise in your room. Also thinking of picking up the 5040/6040.

Thanks,
K.


----------



## gnolivos

Hrmmmm. I tested some high action sequence scenes today and something is bothering me. I am seeing some ghosting on very fast action scenes and pannings, noticeable along all edges of fast moving objects. It's annoying me a lot. This is on 24p content from bluray, 2D, and eshift on or off. I ran A/B comparisons with my old Sanyo and it's definitely the Epson. I have tried turning off all enhancements and still... anyone else notice?


----------



## WynsWrld98

canillo said:


> so far HDR content on the epson depends on the type of player being used...i belive the panasonic is the best option but its really expensive..a new panasonic with almost the same feautures as the one available now will be realeased for almost have the price.


I don't understand your posting. You're talking a new Panny Ultra HD player way down the road like a year from now? If I was spending big $$ on an Ultra HD player it would be the Oppo when it comes out.


----------



## ac388

Actually the Panasonic UHD player 'UD900' was available since March 2016 as per link below ...

'http://www.whathifi.com/panasonic/dmp-ub900/review'

But I still prefer to wait for Oppo , which should be here end of this year, n price about same as the current series.


----------



## ndabunka

k3nnis said:


> Hi,
> 
> Do you have pics of your setup? I plan to get a 110" screen as well just want to see how it looks like size wise in your room. Also thinking of picking up the 5040/6040.
> 
> Thanks,
> K.


Post #391 in this thread shows the projector mounted. It's very basic as it's just an 18" extension on a Cheif RPA281 mounted to the 5040 from a 9-foot tall ceiling. MLP & adjacent seating is currently 11'4" from the temporary screen and 14'4" from the projector lens. 

I am using my old Draper Targa Matt-White non-Acoustically Transparent screen until I decide which of the Acoustically transparent screens would work best for a screen that fully retracts into the 9-foot tall ceiling.

Did you mean to ask if I had pictures of the test image on the screen instead? If so, here ya go


----------



## k3nnis

ndabunka said:


> Post #391 in this thread shows the projector mounted. It's very basic as it's just an 18" extension on a Cheif RPA281 mounted to the 5040 from a 9-foot tall ceiling. MLP & adjacent seating is currently 11'4" from the temporary screen and 14'4" from the projector lens.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using my old Draper Targa Matt-White non-Acoustically Transparent screen until I decide which of the Acoustically transparent screens would work best for a screen that fully retracts into the 9-foot tall ceiling. Since the room is 14-feet wide, I could go as large as 156" diagonal 16:9 screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you mean to ask if I had pictures of the test image on the screen instead? If so, here ya go




Thanks for the pics.

Do you have pics of the actual room setup with a picture of the screen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## canillo

WynsWrld98 said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> so far HDR content on the epson depends on the type of player being used...i belive the panasonic is the best option but its really expensive..a new panasonic with almost the same feautures as the one available now will be realeased for almost have the price.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand your posting. You're talking a new Panny Ultra HD player way down the road like a year from now? If I was spending big $$ on an Ultra HD player it would be the Oppo when it comes out.
Click to expand...

I am talking about the panny ud 900...they are releasing very soon the ud700...and that is going to be a better price...but I am still wainting on the oppo...


----------



## ndabunka

k3nnis said:


> Thanks for the pics.
> 
> Do you have pics of the actual room setup with a picture of the screen?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I believe I posted a number of pictures of the room in a prior design renovation and/or speaker replacement thread. Those have a lot of stuff in the room from working being done. What is it that you are interested in seeing and I can try to take a few pictures tomorrow.


----------



## canillo

ndabunka said:


> k3nnis said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Do you have pics of your setup? I plan to get a 110" screen as well just want to see how it looks like size wise in your room. Also thinking of picking up the 5040/6040.
> 
> Thanks,
> K.
> 
> 
> 
> Post #391 in this thread shows the projector mounted. It's very basic as it's just an 18" extension on a Cheif RPA281 mounted to the 5040 from a 9-foot tall ceiling. MLP & adjacent seating is currently 11'4" from the temporary screen and 14'4" from the projector lens.
> 
> I am using my old Draper Targa Matt-White non-Acoustically Transparent screen until I decide which of the Acoustically transparent screens would work best for a screen that fully retracts into the 9-foot tall ceiling.
> 
> Did you mean to ask if I had pictures of the test image on the screen instead? If so, here ya go
Click to expand...

have you looked at the elune vision tab tensioned 4k studio reference accustic trans? i have the non AT. and its pretty good. I hear their AT competes against screens more than double the price


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks. Just want to see how a 110" look in a room size wise. What dimensions is your room? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

canillo said:


> have you looked at the elune vision tab tensioned 4k studio reference accustic trans? i have the non AT. and its pretty good. I hear their AT competes against screens more than double the price


I am currently looking at buying fabric from either Falcon or Seymour for a retrofit or new fully "in-ceiling" screen. I have no interest in a screen that "hangs on the wall or from the ceiling". Once retracted the screen will fit entirely wihtin the ceiling. However, that line of discussion is not appropriate for this projector thread so please search on my other posts to find that thread and carry this discussion over there so that this thread can remain focused on the Epson 5040ub projectors as intended


----------



## ana_moo_ana

so what is the verdict on the 4K/60f thing. Should I be concerned? Im using the projector for UHD bluray, Netflix & some console gaming


----------



## canillo

ana_moo_ana said:


> so what is the verdict on the 4K/60f thing. Should I be concerned? Im using the projector for UHD bluray, Netflix & some console gaming


as discussed before.....no 4k at 60p 4.4.4 with the epson. the only proyector that supports those specs under $4,000 is the JVC x550r, but you will be having a higher lag input. So you have to be willing to sacrifice one or the other, unless you drop a lot more money.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Anyone try a Darbee with the 5040? I'm using one with my 5030 on HD 40 setting and like it a lot.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

canillo said:


> as discussed before.....no 4k at 60p 4.4.4 with the epson. the only proyector that supports those specs under $4,000 is the JVC x550r, but you will be having a higher lag input. So you have to be willing to sacrifice one or the other, unless you drop a lot more money.




Thanks, but does UHD bluray, netflix & consoles use 4k/60 4.4.4 ?


----------



## canillo

ana_moo_ana said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> as discussed before.....no 4k at 60p 4.4.4 with the epson. the only proyector that supports those specs under $4,000 is the JVC x550r, but you will be having a higher lag input. So you have to be willing to sacrifice one or the other, unless you drop a lot more money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, but does UHD bluray, netflix & consoles use 4k/60 4.4.4 ?
Click to expand...

rare the UHD player that is able to provide that signal. I belive the panasonic men sioned in the other posts is the only one. but not sure that type of content is available yet.


----------



## canillo

WynsWrld98 said:


> Anyone try a Darbee with the 5040? I'm using one with my 5030 on HD 40 setting and like it a lot.


I have the darbee darblet ..I am not using...it is a good device but I think the epson has a very similar technology built in. But the main reason is that darbee device is not conpatible with 4k. That is why Oppo 4k player will not have darbee in it.


----------



## ClayM325

gnolivos said:


> You're not projecting straight onto your screen, is my guess. It's slightly up or down. Or maybe left/right. You must project straight and THEN use lens shift to get it centered. The circle needs to be perfect.


I think that's its, I may not have installed correctly. My projector is mounted from the ceiling and the lens is (if I remember correctly) about 8" higher than the top of the screen. Because of the use of this room (man cave for watching mainly sports...and Game of Thrones) there is a lot of people walking around in there throughout the day on Sundays and I need the projector out of the way. I used the mount to angle it down centered on the screen, and the keystone correction to square the image back up. Sounds like this is wrong?


----------



## gnolivos

ClayM325 said:


> I think that's its, I may not have installed correctly. My projector is mounted from the ceiling and the lens is (if I remember correctly) about 8" higher than the top of the screen. Because of the use of this room (man cave for watching mainly sports...and Game of Thrones) there is a lot of people walking around in there throughout the day on Sundays and I need the projector out of the way. I used the mount to angle it down centered on the screen, and the keystone correction to square the image back up. Sounds like this is wrong?




That's it. Your problem right there. You must not angle it! Project straight perpendicular to screen. Remove keystone entirely. Then use lens shift. Done.


----------



## ClayM325

gnolivos said:


> That's it. Your problem right there. You must not angle it! Project straight perpendicular to screen. Remove keystone entirely. Then use lens shift. Done.


lll get it fixed as soon as I get home! Thank you and thanks everyone else for your input and help I appreciate it!


----------



## WynsWrld98

canillo said:


> I have the darbee darblet ..I am not using...it is a good device but I think the epson has a very similar technology built in. But the main reason is that darbee device is not conpatible with 4k. That is why Oppo 4k player will not have darbee in it.


For my uses even if I had the 5040 (I have the 5030), I still primarily would watch TV (1080i/720p) and 1080p Blurays so if I wouldn't engage eShift for those sources with a 5040 the Darbee would work just fine. I see mixed opinions whether people like eShift engaged for these type of sources among the Epson and JVC forums. I will say with my 5030 the Darbee makes a very noticeable difference. Was just curious if anyone tried it on the 5040 with the type of sources (eShift not engaged) listed.


----------



## RiZLa_7

WynsWrld98 said:


> For my uses even if I had the 5040 (I have the 5030), I still primarily would watch TV (1080i/720p) and 1080p Blurays so if I wouldn't engage eShift for those sources with a 5040 the Darbee would work just fine. I see mixed opinions whether people like eShift engaged for these type of sources among the Epson and JVC forums. I will say with my 5030 the Darbee makes a very noticeable difference. Was just curious if anyone tried it on the 5040 with the type of sources (eShift not engaged) listed.


But would the Darbee work at all considering that you at times would be running a 4k resolution to the PJ ? 
Isn't it limited to 1080P resolutions?


----------



## Kelvin1000

ClayM325 said:


> lll get it fixed as soon as I get home! Thank you and thanks everyone else for your input and help I appreciate it!




Good rule of thumb that has always helped me to set up projectors: Tilt towards the SMALLER side!
If the top image is smaller than the bottom then tilt up; If the left side is smaller then rotate left.

Also, do not use keystone adjustments unless it is absolutely necessary as it reduces resolution and introduces unwanted image artifacts.

Hope this helps!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## flamjam

Can anyone comment on how well these handle motion??


----------



## ClayM325

Kelvin1000 said:


> Good rule of thumb that has always helped me to set up projectors: Tilt towards the SMALLER side!
> If the top image is smaller than the bottom then tilt up; If the left side is smaller then rotate left.
> 
> Also, do not use keystone adjustments unless it is absolutely necessary as it reduces resolution and introduces unwanted image artifacts.
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



The bottom of the projector (now the top) has flat spots where I could place a small torpedo level, which is how I was gonna make sure it was flat, is that ok? That's what I had done in the first place to get it flat, I angled it down after that to get the image on the screen because I wasn't able to find a setting to bring the screen down.


----------



## gnolivos

flamjam said:


> Can anyone comment on how well these handle motion??




I've been studying this on my 5040. At first I thought motion handling was excellent on bluray 24p content. But last night I watched Captain America Civil War bluray which has VERY fast action sequences. What I noticed throughout the movie on these sequences bothered me. Hard to explain, but it shows a ghosting effect of sorts. It almost starts to feel like the frame rate is halved because of this (I realize this is not what's happening, but it gives you that 'feel'). 

It happens on eshift ON and OFF. I compared A/B to my Sanyo Z2000 which has superb motion handling and it showed no such problems. 

Also I tried something interesting: I set up my Yamaha receiver to perform 4K upscaling, which makes the Epson believe it is receiving a true 4K signal (albeit at 10 bit, not 12 bit) and the motion problem is drastically reduced, or even eliminated. 

I will try with a different bluray player instead of the PS3 to see what I find out. 

This is concerning to me. It was very distracting.


----------



## JewDaddy

gnolivos said:


> I've been studying this on my 5040. At first I thought motion handling was excellent on bluray 24p content. But last night I watched Captain America Civil War bluray which has VERY fast action sequences. What I noticed throughout the movie on these sequences bothered me. Hard to explain, but it shows a ghosting effect of sorts. It almost starts to feel like the frame rate is halved because of this (I realize this is not what's happening, but it gives you that 'feel').
> 
> It happens on eshift ON and OFF. I compared A/B to my Sanyo Z2000 which has superb motion handling and it showed no such problems.
> 
> Also I tried something interesting: I set up my Yamaha receiver to perform 4K upscaling, which makes the Epson believe it is receiving a true 4K signal (albeit at 10 bit, not 12 bit) and the motion problem is drastically reduced, or even eliminated.
> 
> I will try with a different bluray player instead of the PS3 to see what I find out.
> 
> This is concerning to me. It was very distracting.



I've been using my Phillips 4K player and the only time I notice issued with motion handling is if I turn 4K enhancement on with a standard blu-Ray and turn the FI up all the way. Haven't tried it without. Which scene is it and I'll test it on mine as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

JewDaddy said:


> I've been using my Phillips 4K player and the only time I notice issued with motion handling is if I turn 4K enhancement on with a standard blu-Ray and turn the FI up all the way. Haven't tried it without. Which scene is it and I'll test it on mine as well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I'll check tonight and find a specific scene time. It really does happen on all the very fast action scenes though! Especially with moving people/objects on foreground.


----------



## Savatage316

So here's my main question, what settings do you guys use for console gaming and then pc gaming? 

I run a 980 ti, dark souls 3 is lookin to be running excellent. Deus ex feels like there's a small but slight input lag, just a little. Not sure if it's the game of my setting perhaps or if it's my gpu. 

Let me know guys, there are so many ins and outs I'm sure I'm not catching everything


----------



## ndabunka

WynsWrld98 said:


> For my uses even if I had the 5040 (I have the 5030), I still primarily would watch TV (1080i/720p) and 1080p Blurays so if I wouldn't engage eShift for those sources with a 5040 the Darbee would work just fine. I see mixed opinions whether people like eShift engaged for these type of sources among the Epson and JVC forums. I will say with my 5030 the Darbee makes a very noticeable difference. Was just curious if anyone tried it on the 5040 with the type of sources (eShift not engaged) listed.


The 5040 automatically applies their psuedo-4K to the 1080p signal just like darbee would so you really would no longer need a darbee. I sold mine on eBay for $90+ shipping


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> I've been studying this on my 5040. At first I thought motion handling was excellent on bluray 24p content. But last night I watched Captain America Civil War bluray which has VERY fast action sequences. What I noticed throughout the movie on these sequences bothered me. Hard to explain, but it shows a ghosting effect of sorts. It almost starts to feel like the frame rate is halved because of this (I realize this is not what's happening, but it gives you that 'feel').
> 
> It happens on eshift ON and OFF. I compared A/B to my Sanyo Z2000 which has superb motion handling and it showed no such problems.
> 
> Also I tried something interesting: I set up my Yamaha receiver to perform 4K upscaling, which makes the Epson believe it is receiving a true 4K signal (albeit at 10 bit, not 12 bit) and the motion problem is drastically reduced, or even eliminated.
> 
> I will try with a different bluray player instead of the PS3 to see what I find out.
> 
> This is concerning to me. It was very distracting.


Which receiver do you have & if that setting corrects your issues, is there even an issue any longer? Why would you turn off the AVR's upscaling if it does what you want?


----------



## ndabunka

ClayM325 said:


> The bottom of the projector (now the top) has flat spots where I could place a small torpedo level, which is how I was gonna make sure it was flat, is that ok? That's what I had done in the first place to get it flat, I angled it down after that to get the image on the screen because I wasn't able to find a setting to bring the screen down.


Push the LENS button on your 5040 remote and you will first see FOCUS. Push it a second time and you will see ZOOM, a 3rd will give you the SHIFT that you need to use to make the adjustment.

Contrary to the purest here, you CAN use keystone correction to fix some minor alignment issues if you need to due to room restrictions afterall it's WHY they have it available in the menu options. Use a longer extension if you can but if you can's then use keystone


----------



## gnolivos

ndabunka said:


> Which receiver do you have & if that setting corrects your issues, is there even an issue any longer? Why would you turn off the AVR's upscaling if it does what you want?



I'm unsure what I'm giving up by letting the AVR handle the upscaling. It may be an option though. What I do know is it seems to sacrifice color depth. It drops it from 12 bit to 10 according to the Epson's info screen.

It also disables the Frame Interpolation option for blurays if I handle the 4K through AVR.

It is a Yamaha RX-V673


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> The 5040 automatically applies their psuedo-4K to the 1080p signal just like darbee would so you really would no longer need a darbee. I sold mine on eBay for $90+ shipping


That isn't what a Darbee does.


----------



## WynsWrld98

RiZLa_7 said:


> But would the Darbee work at all considering that you at times would be running a 4k resolution to the PJ ?
> Isn't it limited to 1080P resolutions?


I don't have a 4K compatible A/V Receiver so I'd continue to route non-4K signals through my A/V Receiver to the second HDMI input of the projector and use the first HDMI input of the projector for an Ultra HD Bluray player. So I could continue to use the Darbee with the A/V Receiver.


----------



## sieden

Savatage316 said:


> So here's my main question, what settings do you guys use for console gaming and then pc gaming?
> 
> I run a 980 ti, dark souls 3 is lookin to be running excellent. Deus ex feels like there's a small but slight input lag, just a little. Not sure if it's the game of my setting perhaps or if it's my gpu.
> 
> Let me know guys, there are so many ins and outs I'm sure I'm not catching everything


Was this with the 4K Enhancement on or off?


----------



## sieden

Savatage316 said:


> Jewdaddy has confirmed it's rock solid. That was the biggest factor for me and I'll have mine tomorrow but from everything I've read it'a .30, .29ish


But is this with the 4K enhancement on or off?


----------



## Number05

gnolivos said:


> I'm unsure what I'm giving up by letting the AVR handle the upscaling. It may be an option though. What I do know is it seems to sacrifice color depth. It drops it from 12 bit to 10 according to the Epson's info screen.
> 
> It also disables the Frame Interpolation option for blurays if I handle the 4K through AVR.
> 
> It is a Yamaha RX-V673


Good to know. I have a Yamaha RX-V681 so assuming that perhaps I may see the same thing too.

(Still waiting to get my 5040 in CAD through BB).


----------



## sieden

*Input Lag*

Can't seem to find this info anywhere.

Looking to get an idea of the input lag with 4K Enhancement enabled while the projector is set in Fast Mode.
Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks!


----------



## gnolivos

sieden said:


> Can't seem to find this info anywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking to get an idea of the input lag with 4K Enhancement enabled while the projector is set in Fast Mode.
> 
> Can anyone confirm this?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




If it's gaming your thinking about, I think it may be pointless. As far as I can tell you can only enable FI if you feed 24p content. Such as bluray. I can't enable it for cable tv or PS3 games even at 1080, let alone 4K.


----------



## gnolivos

Number05 said:


> Good to know. I have a Yamaha RX-V681 so assuming that perhaps I may see the same thing too.
> 
> 
> 
> (Still waiting to get my 5040 in CAD through BB).




I hope your AVR supports 2.2 HDCP. Mine doesn't. Argh. Otherwise I absolutely LOVE this thing to death.


----------



## Savatage316

Well I've been playing BF4, NHL 17 and battlefront on Ps4 with enhancements on and I haven't noticed any input lag at all, it's pretty impressive. 

My only slightly issue issue is deus ex set to 4k resolution, a tiny bit of input lag. I had some presets on, I think i tried it with them off. 

Should presets definitly be off on pc running at 4k?although can 980 ti output 4k at 60hz?


----------



## Number05

gnolivos said:


> I hope your AVR supports 2.2 HDCP. Mine doesn't. Argh. Otherwise I absolutely LOVE this thing to death.


It does, which is the reason I sold my Yamaha RXV579 purchased this past spring (when I had my 5030 from a month this past June), and upgraded to the V681.


----------



## ClayM325

ndabunka said:


> Push the LENS button on your 5040 remote and you will first see FOCUS. Push it a second time and you will see ZOOM, a 3rd will give you the SHIFT that you need to use to make the adjustment.
> 
> Contrary to the purest here, you CAN use keystone correction to fix some minor alignment issues if you need to due to room restrictions afterall it's WHY they have it available in the menu options. Use a longer extension if you can but if you can's then use keystone


Ok so I ran home on my lunch break to tinker with it, and got it pretty damn close, now I have a (much smaller) issue. If the horizontal line in the bottom left corner is perfectly in the corner of the screen, the horizontal line at the top right corner is low. But if I fix the alignment at the top horizontal line, the bottom goes off the bottom of the screen. Basically, I can have 3 corners just right, and one is off. Likewise, if the bottom line is straight across the bottom of the screen, the top line is at a slight angle. So like if I were to use the knob on my mount to rotate the projector to fix the top, the bottom is off. Suggestions? Thanks again for all your help!!


----------



## gnolivos

ClayM325 said:


> Ok so I ran home on my lunch break to tinker with it, and got it pretty damn close, now I have a (much smaller) issue. If the horizontal line in the bottom left corner is perfectly in the corner of the screen, the horizontal line at the top right corner is low. But if I fix the alignment at the top horizontal line, the bottom goes off the bottom of the screen. Basically, I can have 3 corners just right, and one is off. Likewise, if the bottom line is straight across the bottom of the screen, the top line is at a slight angle. So like if I were to use the knob on my mount to rotate the projector to fix the top, the bottom is off. Suggestions? Thanks again for all your help!!




I suggest you go to one of the many sections in the forum that can help you with projection positioning as this issue is not specific to the Epson. It's basic understanding of projection alignment that applies to all projectors.


----------



## Savatage316

Anyone have some pc setting tips? Just want to cover all basis


----------



## ndabunka

ClayM325 said:


> Ok so I ran home on my lunch break to tinker with it, and got it pretty damn close, now I have a (much smaller) issue. If the horizontal line in the bottom left corner is perfectly in the corner of the screen, the horizontal line at the top right corner is low. But if I fix the alignment at the top horizontal line, the bottom goes off the bottom of the screen. Basically, I can have 3 corners just right, and one is off. Likewise, if the bottom line is straight across the bottom of the screen, the top line is at a slight angle. So like if I were to use the knob on my mount to rotate the projector to fix the top, the bottom is off. Suggestions? Thanks again for all your help!!


Glad we could help. Walls to homes are seldom straight. Loosen the bolts connecting the frame of your screen so that it can return to a perfectly flat/square alignment.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> I suggest you go to one of the many sections in the forum that can help you with projection positioning as this issue is it specific to the Epson. It's basic understanding of projection alignment that applies to all projectors.


He means to say that your issues are *NOT* specific to Epson


----------



## ndabunka

WynsWrld98 said:


> I don't have a 4K compatible A/V Receiver so I'd continue to route non-4K signals through my A/V Receiver to the second HDMI input of the projector and use the first HDMI input of the projector for an Ultra HD Bluray player. So I could continue to use the Darbee with the A/V Receiver.


It's not the AVR that is doing the conversion. It is the Projector ITSELF. No need for darbee


----------



## ndabunka

WynsWrld98 said:


> That isn't what a Darbee does.


The darbee increases sharpness on the 1080p signal. Since the 5040 has the ability to convert the 1080p to become a sharper image (e.g. the 4K "eShift-ish" stuff) it essentially does the same thing as darbee & therefore there is no need for it on a projector that has eShift-ish functionality


----------



## evoZip

Info here is all over the place! The recent 'ghosting' talk has me concerned about pulling the trigger for this! 


So I have a 100", 16x9 screen...and it will be, let's call it 19'6" (I forget exactly at the moment) away from the lens with the setup I am building. Projector Central calculator puts it's max distance at 20'8" for 100" screen, so, pushing the limit a bit there. Reference the aforementioned ghosting during action scenes, would this distance exacerbate this ghosting? (If it's even a real issue, I've only notice one user mention it throughout this thread).


Anyone pairing this with a Panny BDT500? A lot of talk about correct settings configuration between UHD Bluray players and the projector...but how does just a regular ol' bluray player look? 


Thanks!


----------



## terminal33

Anyone using a low profile mount for this projector? My ceiling is only 7.5 feet tall so I'd want the lowest profile possible. I'm hoping to order this projector today, upgrading from the BenQ 1070. All the pictures look good in this thread, but my computer screen is weak sauce so I'm sure I can't fully appreciate the detail. I'm trying to seal the deal on convincing my wife that it'll be worth the upgrade.


----------



## gnolivos

terminal33 said:


> Anyone using a low profile mount for this projector? My ceiling is only 7.5 feet tall so I'd want the lowest profile possible. I'm hoping to order this projector today, upgrading from the BenQ 1070. All the pictures look good in this thread, but my computer screen is weak sauce so I'm sure I can't fully appreciate the detail. I'm trying to seal the deal on convincing my wife that it'll be worth the upgrade.


I bought the terrific Chief Mount Mini RSMAU. I attached it in such a way that I get exactly 8 1/4 inches FROM THE CEILING to the CENTER OF THE LENS.

It's not cheap, but it is universal and very sturdy, and will be future proof. Go for it if you can.

http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RSMAU


----------



## gnolivos

*Epson 5040 Motion 2D / ghosting (solved)*

OK, in hopes of calming everybody's concern, I did extensive research on this matter today and came to a conclusion. *
There is nothing intrinsically wrong or different about the way the 5040 handles 24p content.*

I was wrong on a few points made initially, and so here is what I learned today:

-The overall motion is the same with 24p or 60hz forced on bluray (via Ps3 settings).
-The overall motion is the same whether the Epson does the 4k upscaling, or my Yamaha AVR does the upscaling.
-After capturing fast sequences with iPhone video on slow-mo (240fps?), I later reviewed each frame in slow-mo and there is absolutely no ghosting. Each frame is perfectly clean.
-When watching with my bare eyes, on screen, yes I *do* most definitely 'see' a ghosting type of effect that bothers me.
-It is more obvious on parts of the image with high contrast. Like a dark shirt/body moving very quickly on a white background... on the 'line' that separates them. And has to be FAST action.
-Switching to my old projector, yes can I see the same 'problem' but MUCH more subtle. I had never noticed it before.

So, my conclusion/theory? 
I think because this projector is so much brighter and capable of such better contrast, I must be seeing the optical 'effect' of permanence (of bright parts of the image) on my retina from one frame to the next.So I am seeing one frame faded into the next... Which explains why I cannot see this problem as clearly on my old projector. Also on the Epson I played with the settings and brought the overall lumen down as much as possible to test the idea, and sure enough the 'problem' is subdued.

Anyway, I think this is just a matter of me getting used to the 'perceived motion' characteristics resulting from higher brightness and contrast. I guess most of you already coming from high brightness high contrast projectors would not notice any of this.

I'm sorry for any grief I may have caused. I hope this helps.

PS: By the way, watching my old projector was painful, just no contest anymore LOL. The difference is so dramatic.


----------



## canillo

evoZip said:


> Info here is all over the place! The recent 'ghosting' talk has me concerned about pulling the trigger for this!
> 
> 
> So I have a 100", 16x9 screen...and it will be, let's call it 19'6" (I forget exactly at the moment) away from the lens with the setup I am building. Projector Central calculator puts it's max distance at 20'8" for 100" screen, so, pushing the limit a bit there. Reference the aforementioned ghosting during action scenes, would this distance exacerbate this ghosting? (If it's even a real issue, I've only notice one user mention it throughout this thread).
> 
> 
> Anyone pairing this with a Panny BDT500? A lot of talk about correct settings configuration between UHD Bluray players and the projector...but how does just a regular ol' bluray player look?
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I have the panasonic bdt460 and dont notice any of that. Do you need a smaller size at that distance? they are prob reffering to 100" is the smallest size at that distance. Epson can produce images up to 300"


----------



## canillo

terminal33 said:


> Anyone using a low profile mount for this projector? My ceiling is only 7.5 feet tall so I'd want the lowest profile possible. I'm hoping to order this projector today, upgrading from the BenQ 1070. All the pictures look good in this thread, but my computer screen is weak sauce so I'm sure I can't fully appreciate the detail. I'm trying to seal the deal on convincing my wife that it'll be worth the upgrade.


bought mine outta amazon...$49 and it works perfect. Not fancy, easy to install.


----------



## evoZip

canillo said:


> I have the panasonic bdt460 and dont notice any of that. Do you need a smaller size at that distance? they are prob reffering to 100" is the smallest size at that distance. Epson can produce images up to 300"


Yes, 100" is the smallest size at 20'8". I'll be at 19'+...so curious if anyone has a setup with that kind of distance.

And also making sure that a regular (NOT ultra-HD) Bluray player still looks good with this projector!


----------



## canillo

evoZip said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the panasonic bdt460 and dont notice any of that. Do you need a smaller size at that distance? they are prob reffering to 100" is the smallest size at that distance. Epson can produce images up to 300"
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, 100" is the smallest size at 20'8". I'll be at 19'+...so curious if anyone has a setup with that kind of distance.
> 
> And also making sure that a regular (NOT ultra-HD) Bluray player still looks good with this projector!
Click to expand...

evrerhing looks good on this projector. I did bit a calibration but I wanna get better results .thinking about getting disney wow to see if it improves . This is me being picky


----------



## SALadder22FF

canillo said:


> bought mine outta amazon...$49 and it works perfect. Not fancy, easy to install.


how low does this one hang? I have an 8' ceiling and am looking at some low profile mounts...the closest one I've found hangs 2.5" and the 7.6" of the 5040 makes it 10.1 total. not too bad


----------



## gnolivos

I was watching cable TV and Trump's face was not orange enough. I'm returning this projector.


----------



## canillo

SALadder22FF said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> bought mine outta amazon...$49 and it works perfect. Not fancy, easy to install.
> 
> 
> 
> how low does this one hang? I have an 8' ceiling and am looking at some low profile mounts...the closest one I've found hangs 2.5" and the 7.6" of the 5040 makes it 10.1 total. not too bad
Click to expand...

about the same...2 inches or so..I also have 8ft ceiling and needed a low profile mount. With the epson motorized lens was able to set it up with no issues. It also come with an extender just in case you wanna change the set up in the future....for 50 buck cant ask for more ...all metal parts and screws fit perfect. I think it sits perfect from the ceiling .


----------



## canillo

SALadder22FF said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> bought mine outta amazon...$49 and it works perfect. Not fancy, easy to install.
> 
> 
> 
> how low does this one hang? I have an 8' ceiling and am looking at some low profile mounts...the closest one I've found hangs 2.5" and the 7.6" of the 5040 makes it 10.1 total. not too bad
Click to expand...

about the same...2 inches or so..I also have 8ft ceiling and needed a low profile mount. With the epson motorized lens was able to set it up with no issues. It also come with an extender just in case you wanna change the set up in the future....for 50 buck cant ask for more ...all metal parts and screws fit perfect. I think it sits perfect from the ceiling .


----------



## JewDaddy

Still can't get over how good this looks!!! Watching Bad Boys 2 on Blu-Ray and set my player to output 1080p so I can use 4K enhancement with FI. LOVING THIS PROJECTOR!

































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Docj04

Does anyone have any pics of images from this projector during daytime/casual/social viewing? Trying to decide between this and the DLA-RS400 (trying to determine which ALR screen to get, too)

A large portion of this PJ duty will be weekend football parties in the basement. I like the lumens advantage this has over the JVC ( if calibrated lumens actualy beats the JVC that is) and want to confirm that this is the better double duty PJ for daytime as well as theater style viewing environments.

Thanks for helping a first time projector Newb.


----------



## shepdog

Docj04 said:


> Does anyone have any pics of images from this projector during daytime/casual/social viewing? Trying to decide between this and the DLA-RS400 (trying to determine which ALR screen to get, too)
> 
> 
> 
> A large portion of this PJ duty will be weekend football parties in the basement. I like the lumens advantage this has over the JVC ( if calibrated lumens actualy beats the JVC that is) and want to confirm that this is the better double duty PJ for daytime as well as theater style viewing environments.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for helping a first time projector Newb.



Lots of light in room. This was a afternoon game. Light colored walls. Glossy white crown moulding
I will take more this weekend


----------



## shepdog

shepdog said:


> Lots of light in room. This was a afternoon game. Light colored walls. Glossy white crown moulding
> I will take more this weekend




By the way. Not a great screen. 
Manual pull down 120"
It will probably look better on your screen


----------



## DanGraney

So until there is word on the Oppo player (boo, PS4 Pro... very boo), I picked up a Roku for some 4K content. Here are some pics:









Adding a couple more pics, shot in the daytime, with plenty of ambient light. Using a Pioneer SC-97 and Roku 4. Content is 4K footage via YouTube. Setting is Natural and Image Enhancement at Preset 5. Screen is 133" Da-Lite model C. 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

Was thinking of getting a roku 4 as well. Notice a difference on true 4K content vs bluray faux-k?


----------



## DanGraney

gnolivos said:


> Was thinking of getting a roku 4 as well. Notice a difference on true 4K content vs bluray faux-k?




Definitely more detail. More crispness. But the faux-k is pretty stellar. I still want to get some calibration on this.


----------



## canillo

JewDaddy said:


> Still can't get over how good this looks!!! Watching Bad Boys 2 on Blu-Ray and set my player to output 1080p so I can use 4K enhancement with FI. LOVING THIS PROJECTOR!
> 
> [iurl="http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1661633&d=1473903734"]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/iurl]
> 
> [iurl="http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1661641&d=1473903743"]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/iurl]
> 
> [iurl="http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1661649&d=1473903754"]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/iurl]
> 
> [iurl="http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1661657&d=1473903763"]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/iurl]
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


did you say you have the indigo screen? tour pics look really nice.


----------



## JohnnyGoofy

I just wanted to confirm Kpumps findings in regards to the shield vs Epson 5040 / TW9300.

I have the newest Shield TV OS, newest netflix app.

HDMI path is:
Shield -> Marantz 7010 --> 5040UB

Shield is configured with 4K60 Hz 4:2:0 and dynamic.
Tested with marco polo S1E01 with 4K plan

Marantz always shows the picture information from the shield as:
4K, 8bit, 709

If someone has their Shield working with the Epson in Netflix - HDR, I would like to know


----------



## Paul Cordingley

I have the Australian TW-9300, had it for nearly two weeks now. My old projector is a Panasonic PT-AE8000, which I loved. This Epson is dramatically sharper, higher contrast and better with motion (I can't stand any form of FI so that's strictly off). Just a stunning, gorgeous picture.

I bought this specifically to upgrade to UHD Blu-ray. I've got the Samsung and the Xbox One S, both of which play perfectly happily with our 75" Sony X9400D TV - and by happily I mean 4K, HDR10, 10-bit and BT.2020 - everything we want from our new ecosystem.

Not so with this Epson. To my utter dismay and disappointment (and against all indications from the marketing) this projector will not accept a 10-bit signal from either of these players. I get 4K and HDR, but 8-bit REC.709. I will say that UHDs look stunning - titles like Salt, Lucy, Sicario and The Revenant are truly amazing in their definition. I even have managed to cajole a lovely picture from Digital Cinema mode (i.e. the mode which is most colour accurate for P3) with judicious use of High Power, HDR 1, pumped contrast and gamma changes. Looks great, with no clipping. Really impressive.

But 8-bit REC.709 doesn't cut it. There's banding as a result (quite distracting in The Martian as an example) and I really wanted this projector for its wide colour gamut.

So what's the problem here? There seems to be soft confirmation (from what I'm reading) that the HDMI input isn't the latest high-speed necessary for 4K 10-bit at 4:4:4, in any flavour of frame rate. I know it accepts 12-bit 4:4:4 in 1080p because my Oppo 103 can send that and it displays it. But 4K - nope. The Samsung will only send full UHD in chroma-upscaled 10-bit 4:4:4, which this projector refuses to accept, forcing the Samsung to use 8-bit 4:2:0 709. I assume it's the same for the XBox One S, because it does the same thing.

Perhaps the upcoming Oppo will have source-direct, which I expect this projector will handle (10-bit, 4:2:0). But as it stands, this is a major disappointment, and it's not acceptable to have to wait for a new player which may or may not fix the problem.

I have an open track with Epson Australia, who are yet to provide me with answers. As it stands, I believe this projector is not "fit for purpose" - certainly I didn't expect a 2016 4K(esque) projector touting P3 colour handling etc. to not work with either of my two UHD players. This is not acceptable.

Has ANYONE been able to send 4K 24P 10-bit 4:2:0 and have this Epson light up with 10-bit BT.2020 in the info page? And if so, what did you do? What player? Does the Panasonic work - and by that I mean does the projector truly display the incoming signal as 10-bit 2020? I have yet to see any actual proof (screenshot for example) of this, from anyone, anywhere!


----------



## JewDaddy

Paul Cordingley said:


> I have the Australian TW-9300, had it for nearly two weeks now. My old projector is a Panasonic PT-AE8000, which I loved. This Epson is dramatically sharper, higher contrast and better with motion (I can't stand any form of FI so that's strictly off). Just a stunning, gorgeous picture.
> 
> I bought this specifically to upgrade to UHD Blu-ray. I've got the Samsung and the Xbox One S, both of which play perfectly happily with our 75" Sony X9400D TV - and by happily I mean 4K, HDR10, 10-bit and BT.2020 - everything we want from our new ecosystem.
> 
> Not so with this Epson. To my utter dismay and disappointment (and against all indications from the marketing) this projector will not accept a 10-bit signal from either of these players. I get 4K and HDR, but 8-bit REC.709. I will say that UHDs look stunning - titles like Salt, Lucy, Sicario and The Revenant are truly amazing in their definition. I even have managed to cajole a lovely picture from Digital Cinema mode (i.e. the mode which is most colour accurate for P3) with judicious use of High Power, HDR 1, pumped contrast and gamma changes. Looks great, with no clipping. Really impressive.
> 
> But 8-bit REC.709 doesn't cut it. There's banding as a result (quite distracting in The Martian as an example) and I really wanted this projector for its wide colour gamut.
> 
> So what's the problem here? There seems to be soft confirmation (from what I'm reading) that the HDMI input isn't the latest high-speed necessary for 4K 10-bit at 4:4:4, in any flavour of frame rate. I know it accepts 12-bit 4:4:4 in 1080p because my Oppo 103 can send that and it displays it. But 4K - nope. The Samsung will only send full UHD in chroma-upscaled 10-bit 4:4:4, which this projector refuses to accept, forcing the Samsung to use 8-bit 4:2:0 709. I assume it's the same for the XBox One S, because it does the same thing.
> 
> Perhaps the upcoming Oppo will have source-direct, which I expect this projector will handle (10-bit, 4:2:0). But as it stands, this is a major disappointment, and it's not acceptable to have to wait for a new player which may or may not fix the problem.
> 
> I have an open track with Epson Australia, who are yet to provide me with answers. As it stands, I believe this projector is not "fit for purpose" - certainly I didn't expect a 2016 4K(esque) projector touting P3 colour handling etc. to not work with either of my two UHD players. This is not acceptable.
> 
> Has ANYONE been able to send 4K 24P 10-bit 4:2:0 and have this Epson light up with 10-bit BT.2020 in the info page? And if so, what did you do? What player? Does the Panasonic work - and by that I mean does the projector truly display the incoming signal as 10-bit 2020? I have yet to see any actual proof (screenshot for example) of this, from anyone, anywhere!


The Phillips 4K Player will send 4K 24P 10-bit 4:2:0. I had the Samsung and it didn't work correctly but the Phillips player did.


----------



## Paul Cordingley

JewDaddy said:


> The Phillips 4K Player will send 4K 24P 10-bit 4:2:0. I had the Samsung and it didn't work correctly but the Phillips player did.


Thanks JewDaddy. Are you saying you specifically get 10-bit BT.2020 into the projector?


----------



## k3nnis

Unfortunately we don't have the Philips player here in Australia unless we import it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Fog_Man

*Newbe*

New as AVSFotum participant, "don't no much about ..." Considering the purchase of the Epson 5040. 

So a few questions

1. Vendor is downplaying the Epson and pushing the JVC X550RB.
Thoughts on comparison of the two? The brighter lumins of the Epson would work well in my sunny room.

2. I've read in this thread that the Samsung K8500 blue-ray player has incompatibility issues with the Epson. I just ordered the Samsung KM85c equivalent from Costco. Is the incompatibility shared? Any resolution to this problem? 

3. I will need a wall bracket for the projector. Experienced Monoprice shopper. Suggestions on wall bracket appreciated. 

Thank you


----------



## sieden

gnolivos said:


> If it's gaming your thinking about, I think it may be pointless. As far as I can tell you can only enable FI if you feed 24p content. Such as bluray. I can't enable it for cable tv or PS3 games even at 1080, let alone 4K.


FI as in frame interpolation?
That creates an extra frame between each real frame, and is the absolute worse option to enable while gaming.
On top of that the effect itself is horrid for movies as well IMO.

My question was regarding what effect the pixel shift has on response time.


----------



## JewDaddy

Paul Cordingley said:


> Thanks JewDaddy. Are you saying you specifically get 10-bit BT.2020 into the projector?


Whether I'm actually getting it or not, the Epson shows 12 bit BT2020. I don't know how accurate that is but HDR Mode 1 looks incredible and the Samsung doesn't even compare. It's just dull and dim.


----------



## JewDaddy

sieden said:


> FI as in frame interpolation?
> That creates an extra frame between each real frame, and is the absolute worse option to enable while gaming.
> On top of that the effect itself is horrid for movies as well IMO.
> 
> My question was regarding what effect the pixel shift has on response time.


Actually, the Epson will allow FI with any 1080p signal but not if 4K enhancement is selected. The only way you can get 1080p with 4K enhancement and FI is with a 24p signal.

The pixel shift has no effect on lag. I've tried with and without. It's pretty spectacular


----------



## gnolivos

sieden said:


> FI as in frame interpolation?
> 
> That creates an extra frame between each real frame, and is the absolute worse option to enable while gaming.
> 
> On top of that the effect itself is horrid for movies as well IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> My question was regarding what effect the pixel shift has on response time.




Sorry, I misinterpreted your original post. If it is 4K enhancement you're asking about, I can test lag for you on/off later today.


----------



## terminal33

canillo said:


> bought mine outta amazon...$49 and it works perfect. Not fancy, easy to install.


Alright I ordered the projector along with this mount. It'll be here tomorrow and I'm hoping it'll be a noticeable upgrade from my BenQ 1070 or else I'm gonna tell my wife it's all your guys's fault!


----------



## Docj04

shepdog said:


> By the way. Not a great screen.
> Manual pull down 120"
> It will probably look better on your screen


The image looks amazing, and thanks for the pic.

That said, that is still a really dark room to have a bunch of guys sitting and stading around eating and drinking. I'm looking more for a well lit room with the 5040 in action.

Just struggling to decide between the jvc and the epson. 
I don't want to make the wrong choice, but I need to get this project done NOW!


----------



## gnolivos

The JVC would shine in completely dark rooms. The benefit of black levels is lost with even the slightest light. So, if it is ambient light you're going to have, I would not pay more for the JVC. Plus the Epson is really very bright if you don't mind sacrificing color rendition. Heck, it's really bright even with the cinema modes.


----------



## ClayM325

Docj04 said:


> The image looks amazing, and thanks for the pic.
> 
> That said, that is still a really dark room to have a bunch of guys sitting and stading around eating and drinking. I'm looking more for a well lit room with the 5040 in action.
> 
> Just struggling to decide between the jvc and the epson.
> I don't want to make the wrong choice, but I need to get this project done NOW!


If you can wait until Sunday Ill get you some pics. Mine is used in my man cave-barn with 2 windows and lights on.


----------



## TheWorkz

*Received Projector*

Received my PJ last night and am blown away with how good it all looks. Did not do any config besides scale/position/etc., out of the box settings on 138" 2.35 AT 1.1 screen.. Since i am just now starting to build my theater, I realized that I really need to paint the ceiling and walls because in pitch black conditions, the white walls were glowing light it was daylight in there with this projector.. Some shots from my Nexus 5x...

I also shot a low quality video quickly of switching (clicking lens 2) from lens memory from 16:9>2.35..
http://raidacus.com/5040_resize.mp4


Tech notes: Image coming from PC (win10) DisplayPort > Onkyo RZ800 > Epson. 1080p video. I will bring my Nvidia Shield down tomorrow to test some higher res stuff.


----------



## magicvinny

Docj04 said:


> Just struggling to decide between the jvc and the epson.
> I don't want to make the wrong choice, but I need to get this project done NOW!


I have the same problem. I'm trying to decide between the Epson and the JVC. I have the RS46(X35) but want 4K now. 

Will I miss the blacklevels of the JVC or not?

Next month there is a home cinema happening in Belgium where they will show all the new projectors. Guess I'll be waiting till then to make a decision.


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

frenzy987 said:


> This is my concern as well, the primary use for this would be for my windows desktop. I would either be playing games at 4K or upscaling from 1440P (depending on how demanding the game was). Hence why I would love to see some pics/impressions of 4K/60 through a PC, it's not an easy thing to test at a shop/showroom. Does this limitation of the Epson also mean HDR is unable to be used at 4K/60?


Actually I don't believe 420 will make any difference at UHD / 60 for PC use in 8-bit, because this projector can't resolve all the fine detail at UHD anyway so the fact that the input port is limited to 420 at 60hz doesn't matter. 

What does matter, and makes it impossible for me to purchase this, is that you can't enable HDR10 at UHD 60 with 10gbps HDMI input ports, at least as far as I'm aware. This is to be confirmed by owners of course. 

I think for PC gamers you should stick to HDR at 1080p with a good AA mode since you'll have plenty of perf to spare, and forget UHD entirely. If your game doesn't support HDR10 then yeah, use UHD / 60 at 420 in 8-bit. Should be sharper. Not sure how much. 

But I'd venture a guess that the actual effective resolution of the 5040 would be roughly equivalent to 1440p so rendering PC games at 1440p60 then using GPU upscaling to 2160p60 in 420 to maintain 60fps is a very good idea. It's what the min-maxer in me would do. Max FPS and max out the quality the projector is capable of. But IMO HDR10 is the big selling feature of this projector, so I'd prioritize that at 1080p where available. It's really too bad they didn't use 18gbps input ports since that would allow UHD60 with HDR10 in 422 and that would definitely look both sharper and better than 1080p at 60hz (both in HDR10). But 

HDR10 and to a lesser extent WCG is really the big thing this projector offers over lower end 1080p projectors. It's still a good upgrade and a much better buy than any non-HDR projector IMO. HDR is where it's at. IMO getting supreme contrast and using SDR is counterproductive and a waste of money in the HDR era. 

Especially since PQ even in the low nits range is still a much more efficient and banding-reduced encoding than Gamma. Avoid SDR / gamma where possible.


----------



## flyinmunky99

Anyone have any 3D performance feedback?


----------



## swoosh1325

I Just got this bad boy hooked up last night and the picture blows me away. The 4k upscaling of 1080p is very impressive, like the people are popping off the screen. I upgraded from a 5030ub to the 5040ub so I wasnt expecting alot but was very impressed. I still have some calibrating and setting up to do but here are a couple of 4k pics I snapped last night on my iphone. The first pic with the backlighting on is from the 5030ub and the other 2 are from the 5040 in 4k from the nvidia shield. I see a few people wondering about ambient light and will take a few pics in full light when I get home from work but let me tell you this projector is more than bright enough to use in plenty of ambient lighting.


----------



## sunnyvali

Paul Cordingley said:


> Has ANYONE been able to send 4K 24P 10-bit 4:2:0 and have this Epson light up with 10-bit BT.2020 in the info page? And if so, what did you do? What player? Does the Panasonic work - and by that I mean does the projector truly display the incoming signal as 10-bit 2020? I have yet to see any actual proof (screenshot for example) of this, from anyone, anywhere!


Not sure if you are looking for this info. Attached is what I am seeing on my 5040 with Phillips player to Pioneer SC95 to Epson 5040.


----------



## sunnyvali

gnolivos said:


> The JVC would shine in completely dark rooms. The benefit of black levels is lost with even the slightest light. So, if it is ambient light you're going to have, I would not pay more for the JVC. Plus the Epson is really very bright if you don't mind sacrificing color rendition. Heck, it's really bright even with the cinema modes.


I also think the type of screen plays a major role in the overall experience and environment in which we use the projector. I want to try the ALR screen to see if that makes any difference in my light controlled room. Can't decide which one to go with.


----------



## jetsen

magicvinny said:


> I have the same problem. I'm trying to decide between the Epson and the JVC. I have the RS46(X35) but want 4K now.
> 
> Will I miss the blacklevels of the JVC or not?
> 
> Next month there is a home cinema happening in Belgium where they will show all the new projectors. Guess I'll be waiting till then to make a decision.


I will be waiting for you, we will have lots of things to show you, it will be a terrific show this year.


----------



## magicvinny

jetsen said:


> I will be waiting for you, we will have lots of things to show you, it will be a terrific show this year.


I was there last year too :grin:


----------



## Ronman79

swoosh1325 said:


> I Just got this bad boy hooked up last night and the picture blows me away. The 4k upscaling of 1080p is very impressive, like the people are popping off the screen. I upgraded from a 5030ub to the 5040ub so I wasnt expecting alot but was very impressed. I still have some calibrating and setting up to do but here are a couple of 4k pics I snapped last night on my iphone. The first pic with the backlighting on is from the 5030ub and the other 2 are from the 5040 in 4k from the nvidia shield. I see a few people wondering about ambient light and will take a few pics in full light when I get home from work but let me tell you this projector is more than bright enough to use in plenty of ambient lighting.


Wow....great difference in contrast!


----------



## canillo

terminal33 said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> bought mine outta amazon...$49 and it works perfect. Not fancy, easy to install.
> 
> 
> 
> Alright I ordered the projector along with this mount. It'll be here tomorrow and I'm hoping it'll be a noticeable upgrade from my BenQ 1070 or else I'm gonna tell my wife it's all your guys's fault!
Click to expand...

you wont regret it. The projector looks amazing and the mount works great .


----------



## canillo

swoosh1325 said:


> I Just got this bad boy hooked up last night and the picture blows me away. The 4k upscaling of 1080p is very impressive, like the people are popping off the screen. I upgraded from a 5030ub to the 5040ub so I wasnt expecting alot but was very impressed. I still have some calibrating and setting up to do but here are a couple of 4k pics I snapped last night on my iphone. The first pic with the backlighting on is from the 5030ub and the other 2 are from the 5040 in 4k from the nvidia shield. I see a few people wondering about ambient light and will take a few pics in full light when I get home from work but let me tell you this projector is more than bright enough to use in plenty of ambient lighting.


what screen is that?white or grey? i would have to say that is the best pic anyone has posted about this projector. was that 4k at 24p at 4.2.0?


----------



## swoosh1325

canillo said:


> what screen is that?white or grey? i would have to say that is the best pic anyone has posted about this projector. was that 4k at 24p at 4.2.0?


It was 4k at 24p 4.2.0 from the nvidia shield. The screen is a Black Diamond Zero Edge 1.4 gain 120" from Screen Innovations, it was expensive but man does it ever produce some great images especially with a room full of light.


----------



## canillo

sunnyvali said:


> Paul Cordingley said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has ANYONE been able to send 4K 24P 10-bit 4:2:0 and have this Epson light up with 10-bit BT.2020 in the info page? And if so, what did you do? What player? Does the Panasonic work - and by that I mean does the projector truly display the incoming signal as 10-bit 2020? I have yet to see any actual proof (screenshot for example) of this, from anyone, anywhere!
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if you are looking for this info. Attached is what I am seeing on my 5040 with Phillips player to Pioneer SC95 to Epson 5040.
Click to expand...

Im confused ..your pics shows 2 diferent info. 4k 24p 12bit 4.2.2 and 4k 24p 10bit 4.2 0...witch on is the one the projector is actually displaying. is the projector getting the higher signal and downscaling it??


----------



## Docj04

ClayM325 said:


> If you can wait until Sunday Ill get you some pics. Mine is used in my man cave-barn with 2 windows and lights on.



This is tremendously helpful and appreciated, as It will give me a closer idea of what I could expect. Please let us know what type of screen you're using as well. That obviously will help tell the tale.


----------



## chaos8517

swoosh1325 said:


> It was 4k at 24p 4.2.0 from the nvidia shield.


swoosh - have you been able to get HDR to show up for any titles on Netflix?


----------



## shepdog

swoosh1325 said:


> It was 4k at 24p 4.2.0 from the nvidia shield. The screen is a Black Diamond Zero Edge 1.4 gain 120" from Screen Innovations, it was expensive but man does it ever produce some great images especially with a room full of light.




I wish I was in a position to utilize a fixed screen. That is a very nice pic. How did you take it? I'm always looking for ways to improve my pictures


----------



## Docj04

swoosh1325 said:


> I Just got this bad boy hooked up last night and the picture blows me away. The 4k upscaling of 1080p is very impressive, like the people are popping off the screen. I upgraded from a 5030ub to the 5040ub so I wasnt expecting alot but was very impressed. I still have some calibrating and setting up to do but here are a couple of 4k pics I snapped last night on my iphone. The first pic with the backlighting on is from the 5030ub and the other 2 are from the 5040 in 4k from the nvidia shield. I see a few people wondering about ambient light and will take a few pics in full light when I get home from work but let me tell you this projector is more than bright enough to use in plenty of ambient lighting.


Thanks Swoosh! It's awesome to have members like you helping us finalize our purchases. 
Those pics definitely show undeniable improvements with the 5040 over the 30.
I for one am really looking forward to seeing some daytime "living room" or close to it lighting environment pictures. PLease be sure to include what screen you're using to help put it into perspective.

For those in the know, in comparing the contrast and blacks in these pictures---would the JVC really show a significant improvement beyond what the 5040 shows over the 5030 as demonstrated here?


----------



## k3nnis

Thx for the pics. I think there may be a bigger difference of the 5040 vs 5030 due to the 5030 bulb being old? And 5040 brand new? So not a 100% accurate comparison ? But I'm sure the 5040 will still look better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

I'd suggest a more fair comparison of the 5030 without the blue backlight. Just sayin


----------



## Docj04

gnolivos said:


> The JVC would shine in completely dark rooms. The benefit of black levels is lost with even the slightest light. So, if it is ambient light you're going to have, I would not pay more for the JVC. Plus the Epson is really very bright if you don't mind sacrificing color rendition. Heck, it's really bright even with the cinema modes.


This is what has me still waffling between the two.

I will have the times when i will be watching movies in pure blacked out conditions, and recognize that the JVC takes the win in this case--from what I've read here, that is essentially indisputable.

We know that the Epson has the lumen output edge which with all else being equal(room and ALR screen) should make it the daytime champ. But practically speaking, if that output edge is only achieved when it's in a mode/setting that creates a _relatively_ lousy image, then it's not an advantage anymore.

Do we know if the JVC at its 1700 lumen rating actually throws that many lumens in it's best mode/setting? or is it also reduced, and the 1700 is just a marketing spec as with many other projectors?

BTW--forgive me for blowing up the owner's thread this afternoon. I'm trying not to be hasty here, but it's REALLY hard because I want to decide--buy--enjoy!


----------



## DanGraney

Docj04 said:


> Thanks Swoosh! It's awesome to have members like you helping us finalize our purchases.
> 
> Those pics definitely show undeniable improvements with the 5040 over the 30.
> 
> I for one am really looking forward to seeing some daytime "living room" or close to it lighting environment pictures. PLease be sure to include what screen you're using to help put it into perspective.
> 
> 
> 
> For those in the know, in comparing the contrast and blacks in these pictures---would the JVC really show a significant improvement beyond what the 5040 shows over the 5030 as demonstrated here?



Pretty much daytime here...












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

swoosh1325 said:


> It was 4k at 24p 4.2.0 from the nvidia shield. The screen is a Black Diamond Zero Edge 1.4 gain 120" from Screen Innovations, it was expensive but man does it ever produce some great images especially with a room full of light.


Man, that is B-E-A-utiful!!!! However, a $4500 Screen for a $2999 projector, is NOT in the cards for me.....


----------



## Threefiddie

Ronman79 said:


> Man, that is B-E-A-utiful!!!! However, a $4500 Screen for a $2999 projector, is NOT in the cards for me.....


$4500?!??!?! whaaaaaaaaat... good grief. Does it make a sandwich?


----------



## k3nnis

Lol I wish I had the money for that screen....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## frenzy987

RLBURNSIDE said:


> Actually I don't believe 420 will make any difference at UHD / 60 for PC use in 8-bit, because this projector can't resolve all the fine detail at UHD anyway so the fact that the input port is limited to 420 at 60hz doesn't matter.
> 
> What does matter, and makes it impossible for me to purchase this, is that you can't enable HDR10 at UHD 60 with 10gbps HDMI input ports, at least as far as I'm aware. This is to be confirmed by owners of course.
> 
> I think for PC gamers you should stick to HDR at 1080p with a good AA mode since you'll have plenty of perf to spare, and forget UHD entirely. If your game doesn't support HDR10 then yeah, use UHD / 60 at 420 in 8-bit. Should be sharper. Not sure how much.
> 
> But I'd venture a guess that the actual effective resolution of the 5040 would be roughly equivalent to 1440p so rendering PC games at 1440p60 then using GPU upscaling to 2160p60 in 420 to maintain 60fps is a very good idea. It's what the min-maxer in me would do. Max FPS and max out the quality the projector is capable of. But IMO HDR10 is the big selling feature of this projector, so I'd prioritize that at 1080p where available. It's really too bad they didn't use 18gbps input ports since that would allow UHD60 with HDR10 in 422 and that would definitely look both sharper and better than 1080p at 60hz (both in HDR10). But
> 
> HDR10 and to a lesser extent WCG is really the big thing this projector offers over lower end 1080p projectors. It's still a good upgrade and a much better buy than any non-HDR projector IMO. HDR is where it's at. IMO getting supreme contrast and using SDR is counterproductive and a waste of money in the HDR era.
> 
> Especially since PQ even in the low nits range is still a much more efficient and banding-reduced encoding than Gamma. Avoid SDR / gamma where possible.


Good point about HDR and it really is a bummer. Though I will reserve my decision until I have seen some 4K/60 content from a PC game, hopefully some people in this camp post some impressions soon and some pics (would love to see Forza Horizon 3 at 4K/60), as dragging my PC to a showroom is really not an option. I was wondering, with the PS4 Pro (not natively doing 4K but using some trickery), would it be possible to set the output to 4K/30 (I don't believe any game, short of some very simple ones will be doing 4K/60) on the PS4 Pro whilst being able to to enable HDR? I do the vast majority of my gaming on PC but this would be a nice bonus if possible.


----------



## canillo

k3nnis said:


> Lol I wish I had the money for that screen....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


not trying to get away from the original thread but have you looked at the crytal edge technology? I have a friends that has it and claims it even better then the black diamond.


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

JewDaddy said:


> Actually, the Epson will allow FI with any 1080p signal but not if 4K enhancement is selected. The only way you can get 1080p with 4K enhancement and FI is with a 24p signal.
> 
> The pixel shift has no effect on lag. I've tried with and without. It's pretty spectacular


It occurs to me that a decent compromise for HDR + FI aficianados would be a downscaler from UHD to 1080p prior to the projector (I'm serious), that preserves HDR10 and WCG, but allows the projector to engage FI, which should still at least give a moderate sharpness boost because it's 2160p is 420 which is 444 1080p.

I agree with all the comments regarding FI and gaming, it adds lag but with slow-paced console games running at 1080p / 30 it could be bearable. But in general, Async Timewarp on the Rift has proven that it's possible to do frame _extrapolation_ instead of interpolation, and thereby increase framerate. Of course videogames that do 30fps are still outputting 1080p/60 so that will short-circuit the projector being able to engage FI anyway.

Since the projector has some ways to activate Faux-K for both UHD native and 1080p content, then it should be possible in theory, with a firmware update perhaps, to send 1440p and have its internal scalers do its wobulation magic with an intermediary resolution, such as 1440p / 10 bit / 60hz.


----------



## aaranddeeman

terminal33 said:


> Alright I ordered the projector along with this mount. It'll be here tomorrow and I'm hoping it'll be a noticeable upgrade from my BenQ 1070 or else I'm gonna tell my wife it's all your guys's fault!


Could you please post the SKU or model# of that mount. Somehow the attachment in OP is not opening for me.


----------



## canillo

aaranddeeman said:


> terminal33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Alright I ordered the projector along with this mount. It'll be here tomorrow and I'm hoping it'll be a noticeable upgrade from my BenQ 1070 or else I'm gonna tell my wife it's all your guys's fault!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you please post the SKU or model# of that mount. Somehow the attachment in OP is not opening for me.
Click to expand...

Epson 5040UB Projector Mount with optional extension pole by Vega A/V Systems...is the only one with the epson 5040ub in the image in amazon


----------



## terminal33

aaranddeeman said:


> Could you please post the SKU or model# of that mount. Somehow the attachment in OP is not opening for me.


If you go to Amazon and search for "Epson 5040ub mount," it's the first mount that shows up - "Epson 5040UB Projector Mount with optional extension pole by Vega A/V Systems." Currently selling for $49.95.


----------



## aaranddeeman

terminal33 said:


> If you go to Amazon and search for "Epson 5040ub mount," it's the first mount that shows up - "Epson 5040UB Projector Mount with optional extension pole by Vega A/V Systems." Currently selling for $49.95.


Got it.. Thanks


----------



## aaranddeeman

terminal33 said:


> If you go to Amazon and search for "Epson 5040ub mount," it's the first mount that shows up - "Epson 5040UB Projector Mount with optional extension pole by Vega A/V Systems." Currently selling for $49.95.


Following review attracted my attention. Look at the date of that review.

5.0 out of 5 starsMounted easily, the projector is holding place just right
By Jessica Uhri on *August 6, 2016*
Verified Purchase
Got this projector mount today. Its exactly as described. The mount is solid, fits my *Epson 5040UB* perfectly. Mounted easily, the projector is holding place just right. I'd recommend this product to anyone with a 5040.


----------



## terminal33

aaranddeeman said:


> Following review attracted my attention. Look at the date of that review.
> 
> 5.0 out of 5 starsMounted easily, the projector is holding place just right
> By Jessica Uhri on *August 6, 2016*
> Verified Purchase
> Got this projector mount today. Its exactly as described. The mount is solid, fits my *Epson 5040UB* perfectly. Mounted easily, the projector is holding place just right. I'd recommend this product to anyone with a 5040.


Yes, I saw that controversial review, but I took the chance anyway since a fellow AVS member in here recommended it. I guess I can let you know how it is when I install it this weekend.


----------



## Raffy87

aaranddeeman said:


> Following review attracted my attention. Look at the date of that review.
> 
> 5.0 out of 5 starsMounted easily, the projector is holding place just right
> By Jessica Uhri on *August 6, 2016*
> Verified Purchase
> Got this projector mount today. Its exactly as described. The mount is solid, fits my *Epson 5040UB* perfectly. Mounted easily, the projector is holding place just right. I'd recommend this product to anyone with a 5040.


I saw this review when I ordered this mount in August. I've never had an issue with Amazon's return policy so I ordered the mount.

I found the mount easy to install once I had it put together and it has been working fine since I installed it in mid-August. I found the instructions a bit lacking but nothing you can't overcome.


----------



## sunnyvali

canillo said:


> Im confused ..your pics shows 2 diferent info. 4k 24p 12bit 4.2.2 and 4k 24p 10bit 4.2 0...witch on is the one the projector is actually displaying. is the projector getting the higher signal and downscaling it??


The top one is the from the Phillips player. The bottom one show info from the projector.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Raffy87 said:


> I saw this review when I ordered this mount in August. I've never had an issue with Amazon's return policy so I ordered the mount.
> 
> I found the mount easy to install once I had it put together and it has been working fine since I installed it in mid-August. I found the instructions a bit lacking but nothing you can't overcome.


Lacking instruction is not a big issue.
I need a drop of about 11-12", but the extension pole has minimum of 14". That could be an issue.
This drop is needed as there is (and will be) one more PJ mounted just ahead of this one.


----------



## canillo

aaranddeeman said:


> Raffy87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I saw this review when I ordered this mount in August. I've never had an issue with Amazon's return policy so I ordered the mount.
> 
> I found the mount easy to install once I had it put together and it has been working fine since I installed it in mid-August. I found the instructions a bit lacking but nothing you can't overcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Lacking instruction is not a big issue.
> I need a drop of about 11-12", but the extension pole has minimum of 14". That could be an issue.
> This drop is needed as there is (and will be) one more PJ mounted just ahead of this one.
Click to expand...

Are you handy??? If you have the proper tool tou could alter the drop.Not hard ro do.


----------



## aaranddeeman

canillo said:


> Are you handy??? If you have the proper tool tou could alter the drop.Not hard ro do.


I am handy. 
If it's hard metal, cutting it off would be bit of a tough task though.


----------



## Craig Peer

I thought the 6040 we saw at Cedia today threw an outstanding picture - especially for the price ! Same projector as the 5040 except for the longer warranty, mount, lamp and a few projector features. Nice upgrade Epson !


----------



## k3nnis

Why does the 6040 have less lumens than 5040?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

*Epson 5040 Input Lag test results*

As promised here are my detailed tests for Input lag. 

I used an older ACER laptop connected to the Epson 5040 via RGB. This may or may not properly represent input lag over HDMI, but I have no other way of testing this as my laptop lacks HDMI out.
I captured 10 screenshots for each setting, and took the average. This was using the tool at http://tft.vanity.dk/

Notes:
-Every setting uses default options as set up by Epson (enhancements, etc).
-I made a special test* for the Bright Cinema setting, where I disabled all enhancements and turned fast mode ON. It went from 30ms to 23ms. 
-Cinema mode seems the fastest at 18ms.
-Bright Cinema the slowest at 30ms. (23ms with all enhancements off)

SEE ATTACHMENT.
I hope this helps.


----------



## rupedogg24

Watching Batman vs Superman 4K UHD right now with HDR 1 engaged, Bright Cinema mode, on the philips UHD-BRP. Looks really great. I plan on buying a few more movies this weekend. I'll report back as to how the others look. 

Any recommendations for 4K UHD movies?


----------



## k3nnis

Do the colours look natural on bright cinema compared to cinema?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

rupedogg24 said:


> Watching Batman vs Superman 4K UHD right now with HDR 1 engaged, Bright Cinema mode, on the philips UHD-BRP. Looks really great. I plan on buying a few more movies this weekend. I'll report back as to how the others look.
> 
> Any recommendations for 4K UHD movies?


The online 3D Bluray rental place is another option since they rent UHD discs which is how I plan on seeing Lucy once I have a pseudo 4K setup, check www.highdefdigest.com, click on the Ultra HD link under 'Latest Reviews', they give detailed UHD video/audio reviews but also a quick overview in each review of video quality and audio quality. Lucy is one of the rare ones rated with 5 of 5 video quality. Mad Max Fury Road and Deadpool have 4.5 of 5 video ratings.


----------



## Nexgen76

Okay question Epson 5040 is rated 2500 lumens is this correct before calibration ?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

k3nnis said:


> Do the colours look natural on bright cinema compared to cinema?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes. To my eyes they do. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## canillo

aaranddeeman said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you handy??? If you have the proper tool tou could alter the drop.Not hard ro do.
> 
> 
> 
> I am handy.
> If it's hard metal, cutting it off would be bit of a tough task though.
Click to expand...

Not at all...you will need a dremel or an angle grinder.If you dont have the tools then it will be a hard task.


----------



## aaranddeeman

canillo said:


> Not at all...you will need a dremel or an angle grinder.If you dont have the tools then it will be a hard task.


Sounds good..


----------



## Ronman79

Craig Peer said:


> I thought the 6040 we saw at Cedia today threw an outstanding picture - especially for the price ! Same projector as the 5040 except for the longer warranty, mount, lamp and a few projector features. Nice upgrade Epson !


Awesome! Thanks for the report! Looks like they misprinted the plaque, and are trying to remedy... Maybe? 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## canillo

I am testing lucy tonight


----------



## Viche

JewDaddy said:


> Actually, the Epson will allow FI with any 1080p signal but not if 4K enhancement is selected. The only way you can get 1080p with 4K enhancement and FI is with a 24p signal.
> 
> The pixel shift has no effect on lag. I've tried with and without. It's pretty spectacular


How about lag in 1080p with FI on? I would think that would look incredible in motion.



gnolivos said:


> Sorry, I misinterpreted your original post. If it is 4K enhancement you're asking about, I can test lag for you on/off later today.


Another opinion is always welcome. See above as well please.



TheWorkz said:


> Received my PJ last night and am blown away with how good it all looks. Did not do any config besides scale/position/etc., out of the box settings on 138" 2.35 AT 1.1 screen.. Since i am just now starting to build my theater, I realized that I really need to paint the ceiling and walls because in pitch black conditions, the white walls were glowing light it was daylight in there with this projector.. Some shots from my Nexus 5x...
> 
> I also shot a low quality video quickly of switching (clicking lens 2) from lens memory from 16:9>2.35..
> http://raidacus.com/5040_resize.mp4
> 
> 
> Tech notes: Image coming from PC (win10) DisplayPort > Onkyo RZ800 > Epson. 1080p video. I will bring my Nvidia Shield down tomorrow to test some higher res stuff.


Nice image!
What colors are you walls/ceiling?


----------



## Viche

WynsWrld98 said:


> The online 3D Bluray rental place is another option since they rent UHD discs which is how I plan on seeing Lucy once I have a pseudo 4K setup, check www.highdefdigest.com, click on the Ultra HD link under 'Latest Reviews', they give detailed UHD video/audio reviews but also a quick overview in each review of video quality and audio quality. Lucy is one of the rare ones rated with 5 of 5 video quality. Mad Max Fury Road and Deadpool have 4.5 of 5 video ratings.


What online 3D bluray rental place?


----------



## keithj101

I'm planning on shelf wall mounting, anyone have any tips on where to find a shelf large and sturdy enough to support this large projector?


----------



## ClayM325

So this week I found out (here) that I had install my projector incorrectly, as I had pointed the projector down at the screen, and used keystone to square the picture back out. Over the last few days I fixed it by shooting the image straight and using lens shift to get the picture centered on the screen, and refocused it. Well, last night I was watching the Jets-Bills game, and now the picture doesn't seem as clear and crisp as it did Sunday (when I was using the keystone...way out at 21). Everything seemed to have a little blur around it. Even a couple of my buddies noticed it last night and said something. I thought it would be clearer than it was Sunday. What could be causing this from what I changed between then and now? Could it have been my satellite signal or is it more likely something in the settings?


----------



## canillo

OMG!!!! I picked up a Phil 4k player to use until the oppo comes out, purchased Lucy. Set up my sistem....WOWWWWW....I mean I did not know how good this projector looks....I was impressed with the upscaled image but native 4k content is impresive. The colors...the sharpness. I was able to get 4k 24p 12bit 4.2.2 no problem. Also 4k 60p 8 bit 4.2.0 works.I dont know how much better the oppo player can be. If the phil is providing the max input the epson can handle, I dont see how the oppo can look better, maybe handles image or colors better? Only issue with the phil is that I cant get Netflix HDR...dont know why...has anyone had the same issue? Attached a few pics to demostrate color and sharpeness HDR set to 1. the texture in the first pic is not noise or the screen..its just that image that they created that way in the menu. The black are not JVC blacks but they are still very very good..


----------



## jetsen

ClayM325 said:


> So this week I found out (here) that I had install my projector incorrectly, as I had pointed the projector down at the screen, and used keystone to square the picture back out. Over the last few days I fixed it by shooting the image straight and using lens shift to get the picture centered on the screen, and refocused it. Well, last night I was watching the Jets-Bills game, and now the picture doesn't seem as clear and crisp as it did Sunday (when I was using the keystone...way out at 21). Everything seemed to have a little blur around it. Even a couple of my buddies noticed it last night and said something. I thought it would be clearer than it was Sunday. What could be causing this from what I changed between then and now? Could it have been my satellite signal or is it more likely something in the settings?



Depends on the amount of lens shift you use, if the image is moved completely to the sides/bottom/top of the lens this will definitely cause unsharpness and the softness/blur you describe.
This is due to the optics and is not something that you can solve unless moving te projector and use less shift.
You say that you used keystone at 21 which leads me to assume you have used a lot of lens shift now?


----------



## aaranddeeman

canillo said:


> OMG!!!! I picked up a Phil 4k player to use until the oppo comes out, purchased Lucy. Set up my sistem....WOWWWWW....I mean I did not know how good this projector looks....I was impressed with the upscaled image but native 4k content is impresive. The colors...the sharpness. I was able to get 4k 24p 12bit 4.2.2 no problem. Also 4k 60p 8 bit 4.2.0 works.I dont know how much better the oppo player can be. If the phil is providing the max input the epson can handle, I dont see how the oppo can look better, maybe handles image or colors better? Only issue with the phil is that I cant get Netflix HDR...dont know why...has anyone had the same issue? Attached a few pics to demostrate color and sharpeness HDR set to 1. the texture in the first pic is not noise or the screen..its just that image that they created that way in the menu. The black are not JVC blacks but they are still very very good..


Thanks.
The second last picture is from a TV. And all others are from the PJ. Is that right?


----------



## swoosh1325

chaos8517 said:


> swoosh - have you been able to get HDR to show up for any titles on Netflix?


I have not been able to get hdr to come through on netflix


----------



## swoosh1325

k3nnis said:


> Thx for the pics. I think there may be a bigger difference of the 5040 vs 5030 due to the 5030 bulb being old? And 5040 brand new? So not a 100% accurate comparison ? But I'm sure the 5040 will still look better.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Replaced the bulb in the 5030 about 2 months ago so its still fairly new for the comparison.


----------



## swoosh1325

gnolivos said:


> I'd suggest a more fair comparison of the 5030 without the blue backlight. Just sayin


You ask and you shall receive ! The first pic is 5030 with and second is of 5040. 2 month old bulb in the 5030.


----------



## swoosh1325

Docj04 said:


> Thanks Swoosh! It's awesome to have members like you helping us finalize our purchases.
> Those pics definitely show undeniable improvements with the 5040 over the 30.
> I for one am really looking forward to seeing some daytime "living room" or close to it lighting environment pictures. PLease be sure to include what screen you're using to help put it into perspective.
> 
> For those in the know, in comparing the contrast and blacks in these pictures---would the JVC really show a significant improvement beyond what the 5040 shows over the 5030 as demonstrated here?


Here are a few pics in a room loaded with light. Pardon the mess lol. OK pic 1 is full indoor and outdoor lighting with no projection just so you can see how much light is in the room. Pic 2 & 3 are the 5040ub full indoor & outdoor lighting. Pics 3 & 4 I have closed the blinds but have every single light in the living room turned on still. This is in Natural picture mode so it can still go a few steps brighter and the screen is a screen innovations black diamond zero edge 120" 1.4 gain. Hope these help you out.


----------



## Fog_Man

Would like to purchase the Epson 5040ube via reputable e-commerce, not in Florida. 
BB lists it avail on their site Oct 13.


----------



## ClayM325

jetsen said:


> Depends on the amount of lens shift you use, if the image is moved completely to the sides/bottom/top of the lens this will definitely cause unsharpness and the softness/blur you describe.
> This is due to the optics and is not something that you can solve unless moving te projector and use less shift.
> You say that you used keystone at 21 which leads me to assume you have used a lot of lens shift now?


Yea I used a decent amount, theres probly a foot or so of vertical shift left in it. Didn't use much horizontal shift at all, maybe a couple inches or so. Should I just get a longer extension to use less shift? I like the projector being high and out of the way, with people walking around in the room a lot on Sundays, but If I have to I can lower it some. Would prefer a different alternative though if there was one.


----------



## jetsen

ClayM325 said:


> Yea I used a decent amount, theres probly a foot or so of vertical shift left in it. Didn't use much horizontal shift at all, maybe a couple inches or so. Should I just get a longer extension to use less shift? I like the projector being high and out of the way, with people walking around in the room a lot on Sundays, but If I have to I can lower it some. Would prefer a different alternative though if there was one.


Extension should help, but just to make sure that it is the lens shift that causes the problem do this test.
Take the projector and put it on at table or something so the lens is about in the center of the screen and you can center the image without using lens shift.
If the problems is solved then it is definitely the amount of shift that causes the problem, if you still see the blurry problem then we you should look further.


----------



## TheWorkz

Viche said:


> Nice image!
> What colors are you walls/ceiling?


White right now because we are just starting construction on things. I watched my first full movie on it last night (hateful eight) even with the white walls and it still looked amazing.. Can't wait to get them painted darker though..


----------



## Viche

TheWorkz said:


> White right now because we are just starting construction on things. I watched my first full movie on it last night (hateful eight) even with the white walls and it still looked amazing.. Can't wait to get them painted darker though..


Yeah definitely. The thing that distracted me most in your video was the walls illuminating and deilluminating. Would be interesting to see how much that is tamped down with a flat dark paint.


----------



## canillo

aaranddeeman said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> OMG!!!! I picked up a Phil 4k player to use until the oppo comes out, purchased Lucy. Set up my sistem....WOWWWWW....I mean I did not know how good this projector looks....I was impressed with the upscaled image but native 4k content is impresive. The colors...the sharpness. I was able to get 4k 24p 12bit 4.2.2 no problem. Also 4k 60p 8 bit 4.2.0 works.I dont know how much better the oppo player can be. If the phil is providing the max input the epson can handle, I dont see how the oppo can look better, maybe handles image or colors better? Only issue with the phil is that I cant get Netflix HDR...dont know why...has anyone had the same issue? Attached a few pics to demostrate color and sharpeness HDR set to 1. the texture in the first pic is not noise or the screen..its just that image that they created that way in the menu. The black are not JVC blacks but they are still very very good..
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> The second last picture is from a TV. And all others are from the PJ. Is that right?
Click to expand...

no..all the pics are images running in the projector. the tv is part of the scene in the movie


----------



## WynsWrld98

Viche said:


> What online 3D bluray rental place?


http://www.store-3d-blurayrental.com/

They're like a smaller version of Netflix, not as fast shipping, but the discs they send are like those sold to consumers, not the "retail only" versions that Netflix/Redbox has that can be missing things like special features and sometimes even missing the DTS-HD MA/Dolby TrueHD soundtracks. Plus they carry titles that Netflix doesn't carry and if you e-mail them a title they don't carry often they'll add it to their inventory. I love this place. And they're the only place I'm aware of that rents 3D Blurays and UHD Blurays.


----------



## Viche

WynsWrld98 said:


> http://www.store-3d-blurayrental.com/
> 
> They're like a smaller version of Netflix, not as fast shipping, but the discs they send are like those sold to consumers, not the "retail only" versions that Netflix/Redbox has that can be missing things like special features and sometimes even missing the DTS-HD MA/Dolby TrueHD soundtracks. Plus they carry titles that Netflix doesn't carry and if you e-mail them a title they don't carry often they'll add it to their inventory. I love this place. And they're the only place I'm aware of that rents 3D Blurays and UHD Blurays.


Awesome!! Thanks so much.


----------



## Ronman79

ClayM325 said:


> So this week I found out (here) that I had install my projector incorrectly, as I had pointed the projector down at the screen, and used keystone to square the picture back out. Over the last few days I fixed it by shooting the image straight and using lens shift to get the picture centered on the screen, and refocused it. Well, last night I was watching the Jets-Bills game, and now the picture doesn't seem as clear and crisp as it did Sunday (when I was using the keystone...way out at 21). Everything seemed to have a little blur around it. Even a couple of my buddies noticed it last night and said something. I thought it would be clearer than it was Sunday. What could be causing this from what I changed between then and now? Could it have been my satellite signal or is it more likely something in the settings?


Good chance that it was the feed. It'll do that from time to time and make you doubt your stuff! Check other channels, sources, discs, etc to see if the issue compares, and you'll know.


----------



## mcallister

Looks like I'm joining the 5040 club. Upgrading from a Panny AE3000.

Went into my local Best Buy and they gave me an Astra 10% off! Won't be in until Wednesday will post impressions then!


----------



## kevinlg

Has anyone gone from the 55ES to the 5040/6040? or even the 40ES? 

Still thinking if it is worth the upgrade or not.


----------



## gnolivos

kevinlg said:


> Has anyone gone from the 55ES to the 5040/6040? or even the 40ES?
> 
> 
> 
> Still thinking if it is worth the upgrade or not.




I tried a 55Es and felt the image was too soft. And the reality creation engine from Sony adds too much grain to my liking. 

My 5040 is natively sharper and the enhancements add definition without any grain that so can see. Otherwise they seemed similar in quality.


----------



## sieden

Apparently I need 5 posts to quick reply to someone who included an image link in their post, sorry for the spam.


----------



## sieden

gnolivos said:


> As promised here are my detailed tests for Input lag.
> 
> I used an older ACER laptop connected to the Epson 5040 via RGB. This may or may not properly represent input lag over HDMI, but I have no other way of testing this as my laptop lacks HDMI out.
> I captured 10 screenshots for each setting, and took the average. This was using the tool at http://tft.vanity.dk/
> 
> Notes:
> -Every setting uses default options as set up by Epson (enhancements, etc).
> -I made a special test* for the Bright Cinema setting, where I disabled all enhancements and turned fast mode ON. It went from 30ms to 23ms.
> -Cinema mode seems the fastest at 18ms.
> -Bright Cinema the slowest at 30ms. (23ms with all enhancements off)
> 
> SEE ATTACHMENT.
> I hope this helps.


Was your test done with the 4K pixel shifting feature enabled as well?
This is my deciding factor on buying the projector.

Thanks!


----------



## Savatage316

Super impressive projector. What amazes me is not only the depth of color but the way that it takes ps4 content for example and really makes it look way better than 1080p. I loved my 2050 but it had a softness in comparison, this just is a whole new level of detail for not only console gaming but pc gaming as well. 

I haven't even delved into 4k movies with hdr etc yet, just on the gaming side of things currently and I'm simply blown away. The depth of color and clarity feels like an actual top of the line HDTV led lcd set that is 130 inches. It's really impressive all around. I get there's better out there most likely but at 3k I don't think you can beat what this projector offers. And who cares what it's called whether true 4k or fake 4k, it looks absolutely stunning. Looking good is looking good, simple as that


----------



## shepdog

Savatage316 said:


> Super impressive projector. What amazes me is not only the depth of color but the way that it takes ps4 content for example and really makes it look way better than 1080p. I loved my 2050 but it had a softness in comparison, this just is a whole new level of detail for not only console gaming but pc gaming as well.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't even delved into 4k movies with hdr etc yet, just on the gaming side of things currently and I'm simply blown away. The depth of color and clarity feels like an actual top of the line HDTV led lcd set that is 130 inches. It's really impressive all around. I get there's better out there most likely but at 3k I don't think you can beat what this projector offers. And who cares what it's called whether true 4k or fake 4k, it looks absolutely stunning. Looking good is looking good, simple as that




I haven't had time to really mess with any calibrations after 4 weeks. 

I come home, turn it on and just watch.


----------



## Savatage316

shepdog said:


> I haven't had time to really mess with any calibrations after 4 weeks.
> 
> I come home, turn it on and just watch.


Yea it's a damn impressive piece of equipment imho. Just a great purchase, I'm very happy with it thru and thru. 

What amazes me as I said above is how it takes ps4 and makes it look pretty damn awesome. Playing my pc most of the time and switching to PS4 was kind of an eye shock at times, with this console gaming looks very good


----------



## Threefiddie

kevinlg said:


> Has anyone gone from the 55ES to the 5040/6040? or even the 40ES?
> 
> Still thinking if it is worth the upgrade or not.


i got a sony hw50es...curious as well.


----------



## imhotep6

mcallister said:


> Looks like I'm joining the 5040 club. Upgrading from a Panny AE3000.
> 
> 
> 
> Went into my local Best Buy and they gave me an Astra 10% off! Won't be in until Wednesday will post impressions then!




How did you get the 10% off?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mcallister

imhotep6 said:


> How did you get the 10% off?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Pure luck really, a salesman approached me and I told them i was looking for the 5040 and he called over the store General Manager who offered me 10% off instantly and 36 months same as cash. I told him I was also looking at JVCs and whatnot and wanted to see the 5040 first.


----------



## imhotep6

mcallister said:


> Pure luck really, a salesman approached me and I told them i was looking for the 5040 and he called over the store General Manager who offered me 10% off instantly and 36 months same as cash. I told him I was also looking at JVCs and whatnot and wanted to see the 5040 first.




Soooo lucky.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

So I tested the Philips 4K player today, and overall it does look very good, and slightly sharper than Blu-rays with faux-k. The demo disc included was Creed, and I don't think this is the best example to judge. 
Overall, I don't feel a slight bump in image quality and color rendition justifies the huge additional expense that this represents to me, in terms of requiring new AVR, new UHD player, new cables, new discs etc. I subjectively feel this only gives me 10 to 15% improvement, so I am sticking with Blu-rays enhanced which look terrific.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

gnolivos said:


> As promised here are my detailed tests for Input lag.
> 
> I used an older ACER laptop connected to the Epson 5040 via RGB. This may or may not properly represent input lag over HDMI, but I have no other way of testing this as my laptop lacks HDMI out.
> I captured 10 screenshots for each setting, and took the average. This was using the tool at http://tft.vanity.dk/
> 
> Notes:
> -Every setting uses default options as set up by Epson (enhancements, etc).
> -I made a special test* for the Bright Cinema setting, where I disabled all enhancements and turned fast mode ON. It went from 30ms to 23ms.
> -Cinema mode seems the fastest at 18ms.
> -Bright Cinema the slowest at 30ms. (23ms with all enhancements off)
> 
> SEE ATTACHMENT.
> I hope this helps.




interesting, thanks for sharing.


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks. Anyone here can post pics of 24p 1080P Blu rays with 4K enhancement on?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

sieden said:


> Was your test done with the 4K pixel shifting feature enabled as well?
> 
> This is my deciding factor on buying the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




As I recall it, using the RGB computer port disabled the pixel shifting. I'm not 100% sure on this, but 90%


----------



## gnolivos

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. Anyone here can post pics of 24p 1080P Blu rays with 4K enhancement on?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I posted several earlier in this thread. Others have too! Take a look.


----------



## k3nnis

gnolivos said:


> I posted several earlier in this thread. Others have too! Take a look.




Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dirk504

gnolivos said:


> So I tested the Philips 4K player today, and overall it does look very good, and slightly sharper than Blu-rays with faux-k. The demo disc included was Creed, and I don't think this is the best example to judge.
> Overall, I don't feel a slight bump in image quality and color rendition justifies the huge additional expense that this represents to me, in terms of requiring new AVR, new UHD player, new cables, new discs etc. I subjectively feel this only gives me 10 to 15% improvement, so I am sticking with Blu-rays enhanced which look terrific.


Yea Creed isn't the best movie to test. It's only slightly better than the regular Blu Ray. Try The Revenant, Lucy, or Sicario.


----------



## canillo

you do know that the phil has a dedicated HDMI audio out for old receivers that dont support hadmi 2.0 HCDP 2.2? no need to upgrade receiver unless is a must for you to go into the receiver first


----------



## frenzy987

Savatage316 said:


> Yea it's a damn impressive piece of equipment imho. Just a great purchase, I'm very happy with it thru and thru.
> 
> What amazes me as I said above is how it takes ps4 and makes it look pretty damn awesome. Playing my pc most of the time and switching to PS4 was kind of an eye shock at times, with this console gaming looks very good


Have you tried any PC games at 4K/60, a tall ask I know, considering power required. Just interested to know how it looks in regards to chroma.


----------



## Savatage316

frenzy987 said:


> Have you tried any PC games at 4K/60, a tall ask I know, considering power required. Just interested to know how it looks in regards to chroma.


Been running deus ex and dark souls 3 in 4k and it looks spectacular, no performance hit. 

Also for a fun treat guys, I fired up Rogue Galaxy on ps4 via the psn release and wow it sharpens up ps2 games like crazy. Just a small side treat but still cool nonetheless. Makes me wanna really play Rogue Galaxy again as it looks pretty damn sexy on this projector


----------



## frenzy987

Savatage316 said:


> Been running deus ex and dark souls 3 in 4k and it looks spectacular, no performance hit.
> 
> Also for a fun treat guys, I fired up Rogue Galaxy on ps4 via the psn release and wow it sharpens up ps2 games like crazy. Just a small side treat but still cool nonetheless. Makes me wanna really play Rogue Galaxy again as it looks pretty damn sexy on this projector


Was that running Deus Ex natively on 4K on your PC, not upscaling? Don't suppose you have some pics to share, would love to see how it looks.


----------



## Savatage316

frenzy987 said:


> Was that running Deus Ex natively on 4K on your PC, not upscaling? Don't suppose you have some pics to share, would love to see how it looks.


Yea I can try to snag some pics tomorrow for sure. Yea simply set it to 4k resolution and it looked great. 4k enhancements I tried on and off and different degrees and overall a gorgeous picture and smooth running. I'll set out to get some pics tomorrow tho for sure


----------



## gnolivos

canillo said:


> you do know that the phil has a dedicated HDMI audio out for old receivers that dont support hadmi 2.0 HCDP 2.2? no need to upgrade receiver unless is a must for you to go into the receiver first




Saw that. BUT I hate losing AVR on screen menus.


----------



## gnolivos

Anybody else find that the lens shift memory recall is imprecise? Maybe my unit is defective.


----------



## Colin Goddard

Savatage316 said:


> Super impressive projector. What amazes me is not only the depth of color but the way that it takes ps4 content for example and really makes it look way better than 1080p. I loved my 2050 but it had a softness in comparison, this just is a whole new level of detail for not only console gaming but pc gaming as well.
> 
> Did you mean an Epson 5020?.. That is what I currently have now but I am considering the 5040..Thanks..


----------



## Savatage316

Colin Goddard said:


> Savatage316 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Super impressive projector. What amazes me is not only the depth of color but the way that it takes ps4 content for example and really makes it look way better than 1080p. I loved my 2050 but it had a softness in comparison, this just is a whole new level of detail for not only console gaming but pc gaming as well.
> 
> Did you mean an Epson 5020?.. That is what I currently have now but I am considering the 5040..Thanks..
> 
> 
> 
> Actually no, had a BenQ 2050 previously. So my upgrade was a fairly big jump
Click to expand...


----------



## Craig Peer

Ronman79 said:


> Awesome! Thanks for the report! Looks like they misprinted the plaque, and are trying to remedy... Maybe?
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


I noticed that !


----------



## SALadder22FF

What is the heat generated with this. I plan on having mine overhead the seating and was wondering if that makes for an uncomfortable temp. Thank you all for your great reviews.


----------



## shepdog

SALadder22FF said:


> What is the heat generated with this. I plan on having mine overhead the seating and was wondering if that makes for an uncomfortable temp. Thank you all for your great reviews.













This is directly above my seat. I don't hear it or feel any heat. Usually running it medium or eco. I've never really had to run it high.


----------



## MarkI

gnolivos said:


> Anybody else find that the lens shift memory recall is imprecise? Maybe my unit is defective.


I guess it depends on how far off it is. I have tested and it's off by at most 1" or so on a 120" screen. It looks like it will always be off by the same amount for the save so if you can get it so it's at least a little larger than the screen and you have really dark screen borders then it will probably be OK. After looking at the RS400 thread, it seems like the JVC projectors have similar issues. Maybe they can make it better with a firmware update. They should also fix the fact that the "Reset Lens Position" option in the "Reset" menu does absolutely nothing. 

I've tested on 2 5040s now, both had issues with the Lens Memory. And unfortunately both for me have been defective in other ways. First had some kind of processing issue pop up after 20 hours resulting in rows and columns of light pixels on the screen. This second one has halos/smearing and I can't focus it so the pixels are sharp without a halo around them. I like to game occasionally, but these problems and the UHD compatibility is making me consider that other brand.


----------



## SALadder22FF

How high is that above you


----------



## shepdog

SALadder22FF said:


> How high is that above you




71" I think.


----------



## gnolivos

My 5040 sits about 4-5 feet over my head. In eco or mid lamp modes I cannot hear it at all during movies. If I pause and pay attention yes I can hear it. Bottom line is, noise isn't a problem. 

I tried in high mode and I cannot hear it during movies most of the time except quiet dialogs. Not a problem for me but high lamp is absurdly bright for a bat cave room like mine.


----------



## gnolivos

Markl, mine does the same as yours. I don't understand why. The lens shift gears are very precise... you can nudge one half pixel at a time maybe less. There is no reason why the memory recall function is off by this much. Everyone with this issue maybe open a ticket with Epson. Perhaps few upgrade would fix. Not a deal breaker for me but it is an annoyance.


----------



## Darren Germon

Hey quick question, can the Epson be connected to wifi I've gone thru it's menu found that section but not sure in how to get it to connect.


----------



## Darren Germon

kevinlg said:


> Has anyone gone from the 55ES to the 5040/6040? or even the 40ES?
> 
> Still thinking if it is worth the upgrade or not.


I upgraded from a year old hw40 and glad I did, the Sony is a decent projector but the Epson is a step or 2 above and for me worth the $$$ in changeover. Found the Sony to be a little soft and in fact due to this i bought a darbee which i sold when i sold the Sony. The 4K/hdmi2.0/hdcp2.2 just opens a whole new world the Sony couldn't.


----------



## Josuah

Out of the box with default settings, Natural mode is the most accurate for me. I switched over to Digital Cinema in ECO mode after reading that is the only mode where it will support the DCI color space, and had to make significant changes to the RGB offset and gain settings to get it to look right but after which it tracks very well. (Calibrated using HCFR and i1 Display Pro.) I have a Carada 106" Precision screen in Classic White for a gain of 1.0. The room is light controlled.

I am successfully getting BT.2020 HDR from the Philips BDP7501 but only during 4K Blu-ray playback. I do not get 4K or HDR playback from Netflix on the BDP7501. It is on the latest firmware. The 5040UB switches to HDR Mode 2 which is too dark, so I have to manually switch it to HDR Mode 1 each time. Which is annoying. I also tried an NVIDIA Shield and Xbox One S, both on the latest firmware. Neither of which will send BT.2020 or HDR for Amazon or Netflix, or for 4K discs on the Xbox One S. However they will both output UHD resolution. The processor is a AV8802A with the latest firmware.

I am using random HDMI cables between sources and the AV8802A, and a long 30'-40' Monoprice "Commercial Series Premium" HDMI cable that I purchased back in 2008 and it passes the 4K video from the BDP7501 perfectly.

EDIT: Turns out I was not on the Netflix 4S+UHD plan. 4K w/o HDR may have been possible with the Xbox One S. 4K w/HDR may have been possible with the NVIDIA Shield.


----------



## shepdog

Josuah said:


> Out of the box with default settings, Natural mode is the most accurate for me. I switched over to Digital Cinema in ECO mode after reading that is the only mode where it will support the DCI color space, and had to make significant changes to the RGB offset and gain settings to get it to look right but after which it tracks very well. (Calibrated using HCFR and i1 Display Pro.) I have a Carada 106" Precision screen in Classic White for a gain of 1.0. The room is light controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> I am successfully getting BT.2020 HDR from the Philips BDP7501 but only during 4K Blu-ray playback. I do not get 4K or HDR playback from Netflix on the BDP7501. It is on the latest firmware. The 5040UB switches to HDR Mode 2 which is too dark, so I have to manually switch it to HDR Mode 1 each time. Which is annoying. I also tried an NVIDIA Shield and Xbox One S, both on the latest firmware. Neither of which will send BT.2020 or HDR for Amazon or Netflix, or for 4K discs on the Xbox One S. However they will both output UHD resolution. The processor is a AV8802A with the latest firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using random HDMI cables between sources and the AV8802A, and a long 30'-40'  Monoprice "Commercial Series Premium" HDMI cable that I purchased back in 2008 and it passes the 4K video from the BDP7501 perfectly.




What RGB and gain settings did you use?


----------



## WynsWrld98

Josuah said:


> Out of the box with default settings, Natural mode is the most accurate for me. I switched over to Digital Cinema in ECO mode after reading that is the only mode where it will support the DCI color space, and had to make significant changes to the RGB offset and gain settings to get it to look right but after which it tracks very well. (Calibrated using HCFR and i1 Display Pro.) I have a Carada 106" Precision screen in Classic White for a gain of 1.0. The room is light controlled.
> 
> I am successfully getting BT.2020 HDR from the Philips BDP7501 but only during 4K Blu-ray playback. I do not get 4K or HDR playback from Netflix on the BDP7501. It is on the latest firmware. The 5040UB switches to HDR Mode 2 which is too dark, so I have to manually switch it to HDR Mode 1 each time. Which is annoying. I also tried an NVIDIA Shield and Xbox One S, both on the latest firmware. Neither of which will send BT.2020 or HDR for Amazon or Netflix, or for 4K discs on the Xbox One S. However they will both output UHD resolution. The processor is a AV8802A with the latest firmware.
> 
> I am using random HDMI cables between sources and the AV8802A, and a long 30'-40' Monoprice "Commercial Series Premium" HDMI cable that I purchased back in 2008 and it passes the 4K video from the BDP7501 perfectly.


It's odd that Epson chose HDR2 as the default vs HDR1 since pretty much everyone says HDR2 is too dark and this is with a new lamp so getting as much lumens as you'll ever get.


----------



## gnolivos

WynsWrld98 said:


> It's odd that Epson chose HDR2 as the default vs HDR1 since pretty much everyone says HDR2 is too dark and this is with a new lamp so getting as much lumens as you'll ever get.




Agree. Even worse, the hdr1-3 setting does NOT get saved as part of your memory presets. So you have to switch it manually.


----------



## k3nnis

I plan to use near or at full vertical shift for this projector. Any issues with distortion or quality? Thanks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

gnolivos said:


> Agree. Even worse, the hdr1-3 setting does NOT get saved as part of your memory presets. So you have to switch it manually.


Definitely warrants a firmware update, should be an easy fix and make using the projector more convenient. They need to use AVSForum members as beta testers! 😆


----------



## shepdog

Taken from my seat 15ft from screen. Sorry I only have my iPhone 6+ available 

Roku4 streaming PlayStation Vue

Mode: cinema
Power: medium



*Taken this afternoon. Same settings. *














Ambient light looked like this


----------



## canillo

this is the distance I have ..no heat problems or noise using it at medium.hight lamp gets twice as loud.


----------



## Ronman79

shepdog said:


> Taken from my seat 15ft from screen. Sorry I only have my iPhone 6+ available
> 
> Roku4 streaming PlayStation Vue
> 
> Mode: cinema
> Power: medium
> 
> 
> 
> *Taken this afternoon. Same settings. *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient light looked like this


Roll Tide

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Paul Cordingley

Thanks to those who helped me out. I am selling the Samsung player after buying the Panasonic. Yes, this player is fantastic and actually sends 4:2:2 BT.2020 to this projector. Ahhhhhhhhh.


----------



## canillo

Paul Cordingley said:


> Thanks to those who helped me out. I am selling the Samsung player after buying the Panasonic. Yes, this player is fantastic and actually sends 4:2:2 BT.2020 to this projector. Ahhhhhhhhh.


what panasonic did you get??


----------



## Paul Cordingley

canillo said:


> what panasonic did you get??


The DMP-UB900. I love the info screen whilst a movie is playing - trust Panasonic to get this right and show enthusiasts exactly what they want (and during these early days, need) to see - formats and bit rates along with confirmational HDMI sink info. Perfect. 

And as for this projector, it is stunning. HDR really works, don't believe the nay sayers. Put this baby into HDR1 mode, put the lamp on full, make sure you're in Digital Cinema mode so that you get full P3 coverage, and it's happy times. This format has a bright and colourful future, pun intended.


----------



## gnolivos

P3 filter is engaged on other modes as well, particularly cinema mode which I favor.


----------



## Raffy87

Paul Cordingley said:


> The DMP-UB900. I love the info screen whilst a movie is playing - trust Panasonic to get this right and show enthusiasts exactly what they want (and during these early days, need) to see - formats and bit rates along with confirmational HDMI sink info. Perfect.
> 
> And as for this projector, it is stunning. HDR really works, don't believe the nay sayers. Put this baby into HDR1 mode, put the lamp on full, make sure you're in Digital Cinema mode so that you get full P3 coverage, and it's happy times. This format has a bright and colourful future, pun intended.


Do you know if you can control the UB900 over IP?


----------



## Viche

Paul Cordingley said:


> The DMP-UB900. I love the info screen whilst a movie is playing - trust Panasonic to get this right and show enthusiasts exactly what they want (and during these early days, need) to see - formats and bit rates along with confirmational HDMI sink info. Perfect.
> 
> And as for this projector, it is stunning. HDR really works, don't believe the nay sayers. Put this baby into HDR1 mode, put the lamp on full, make sure you're in Digital Cinema mode so that you get full P3 coverage, and it's happy times. This format has a bright and colourful future, pun intended.





gnolivos said:


> P3 filter is engaged on other modes as well, particularly cinema mode which I favor.


P3 is on cinema only, which is not bright, not digital cinema


----------



## gnolivos

Viche said:


> P3 is on cinema only, which is not bright, not digital cinema




I think you're right. I can hear the filter mechanically engaging on CINEMA mode for sure. Have never heard it on any other modes but the poster stated Digital Cinema has it too... I think not as well.


----------



## gnolivos

If you save a custom image setting in memory, and then start messing with the brightness slider contrast etc., I was expecting that when hitting the DEFAULT button, it would reset the slider to the custom saved memory value. However it is resetting it to the projector's factory default. I think this is rather useless this way. My old projector reset to the saved memory setting and I found it immensely useful when tweaking. 

Is this how Epson has always handled this? Is there any point in requesting a change?


----------



## gnolivos

I wanted to make sure all owners were aware that it is hugely beneficial to perform a pixel alignment of this projector. It's easy to follow through the settings menus. It will make a significant difference I the perceived sharpness of the projected image. Do it!


----------



## Don Giberson

I have not read through all the posts so my observations may have already been posted. 

Just took deliver of the 5040 yesterday. Pulled down my InFocus 777 and put up the 5040. Black levels and obviously aperature ratio is better. However, there is something special about a 3 chip DLP image that LCDs seem to lack. My fiance said the 777 was easier to watch. By and large, I have been disappointed with the 5040. This is my first active iris projector and the transition while throttling light can often be seen. Edge ringing is obvious and I can't seem to find a workaround. The HDR capability, discussed ad nauseum, was one of the reasons I moved forward with the purchase. No question I should have done more research. 

So my primary question is whether there are other than the Philips 4K UHD players now compatible with the 5040. Also, I have an older legacy sound system, Wilson Watt 6 Puppies, Krell, Wavestream using Onkyo for processing that is not HDCP 2.2 compatible. Can I use optical input and still get HDR from the Philips or other compatible players?

Was up late last night converging panels, playing with most settings not getting an image of which I am satisfied. The BluRay Avengers movie is very blurry, really horrible. Other discs were much better. Not sure why that is. I have a Sony 65" 4K direct view that displays the movie perfectly using the same Oppo 93 player I am using with the 5040. Tired but looking for solutions.

Thanks


----------



## Kelvin1000

Does this software based alignment reduce the resolution or introduce any other unwanted artifacts?

I know that it's not recommended to use keystone correction but I am not sure if the pixel alignment would have any negative effects.

Any pros have any input on this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Giberson

Kelvin1000 said:


> Does this software based alignment reduce the resolution or introduce any other unwanted artifacts?
> 
> I know that it's not recommended to use keystone correction but I am not sure if the pixel alignment would have any negative effects.
> 
> Any pros have any input on this?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I did the panel and corner alignment and noticed improvement with text with no degradation. The red panel was misaligned about 1 pixel. I assume there are micro servo motors moving the panels.


----------



## gnolivos

Don Giberson said:


> I did the panel and corner alignment and noticed improvement with text with no degradation. The red panel was misaligned about 1 pixel. I assume there are micro servo motors moving the panels.




I thought so too. But I've read it is all digital. Which is mind boggling to me.


----------



## shepdog

Don Giberson said:


> I have not read through all the posts so my observations may have already been posted.
> 
> 
> 
> Just took deliver of the 5040 yesterday. Pulled down my InFocus 777 and put up the 5040. Black levels and obviously aperature ratio is better. However, there is something special about a 3 chip DLP image that LCDs seem to lack. My fiance said the 777 was easier to watch. By and large, I have been disappointed with the 5040. This is my first active iris projector and the transition while throttling light can often be seen. Edge ringing is obvious and I can't seem to find a workaround. The HDR capability, discussed ad nauseum, was one of the reasons I moved forward with the purchase. No question I should have done more research.
> 
> 
> 
> So my primary question is whether there are other than the Philips 4K UHD players now compatible with the 5040. Also, I have an older legacy sound system, Wilson Watt 6 Puppies, Krell, Wavestream using Onkyo for processing that is not HDCP 2.2 compatible. Can I use optical input and still get HDR from the Philips or other compatible players?
> 
> 
> 
> Was up late last night converging panels, playing with most settings not getting an image of which I am satisfied. The BluRay Avengers movie is very blurry, really horrible. Other discs were much better. Not sure why that is. I have a Sony 65" 4K direct view that displays the movie perfectly using the same Oppo 93 player I am using with the 5040. Tired but looking for solutions.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks




Optical will not work. You can run HDMI from whatever player you choose to the projector than run a second cable from player to your processor. 

4K is not going to work without 2.2 with anything not just this projector unless you use something like hdfury. It's a copy protection scheme and it sucks. If anything in the chain is not 2.2 you will not get a picture. 

As far as DLP goes, I had a dlp rear projector I returned. I think if you really the way a dlp looks it may be hard to switch. 

Good luck.


----------



## Jasinto

Don Giberson said:


> playing with most settings not getting an image of which I am satisfied. The BluRay Avengers movie is very blurry, really horrible



I need answer about this , even if dlps are more sharper 3dlp have the same convergence problems
and if im not bad informed this infocus is 1280x720 have to be one problem sure.

the epson is 1080 and eshift at least made 1080x2

for me sharper picture can made change me buy decision 
Saludos


----------



## Don Giberson

shepdog said:


> Optical will not work. You can run HDMI from whatever player you choose to the projector than run a second cable from player to your processor.
> 
> 4K is not going to work without 2.2 with anything not just this projector unless you use something like hdfury. It's a copy protection scheme and it sucks. If anything in the chain is not 2.2 you will not get a picture.
> 
> As far as DLP goes, I had a dlp rear projector I returned. I think if you really the way a dlp looks it may be hard to switch.
> 
> Good luck.


I just installed the Philips. Hooked up player directly to projector and then connected another HDMI cable from the HDMI audio only receptacle to the processor. I inserted Creed and everything came up fine with an indication on the screen that HDR2 was active. The picture is dim and looks bad. Need to find out why. Can't bring up HDR menu while movie is in.


----------



## canillo

Don Giberson said:


> shepdog said:
> 
> 
> 
> Optical will not work. You can run HDMI from whatever player you choose to the projector than run a second cable from player to your processor.
> 
> 4K is not going to work without 2.2 with anything not just this projector unless you use something like hdfury. It's a copy protection scheme and it sucks. If anything in the chain is not 2.2 you will not get a picture.
> 
> As far as DLP goes, I had a dlp rear projector I returned. I think if you really the way a dlp looks it may be hard to switch.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> I just installed the Philips. Hooked up player directly to projector and then connected another HDMI cable from the HDMI audio only receptacle to the processor. I inserted Creed and everything came up fine with an indication on the screen that HDR2 was active. The picture is dim and looks bad. Need to find out why. Can't bring up HDR menu while movie is in.
Click to expand...

Ok..now go to your epson ...signal...advanced...dynamic range and swith from auto to HDR 1....and ENJOY your new beautiful pic.


----------



## Don Giberson

Jasinto said:


> I need answer about this , even if dlps are more sharper 3dlp have the same convergence problems
> and if im not bad informed this infocus is 1280x720 have to be one problem sure.
> 
> the epson is 1080 and eshift at least made 1080x2
> 
> for me sharper picture can made change me buy decision
> Saludos


I am not sure if there are 3 chip consumer level 4K DLPs. What is astounding is how my 777 competes favorably with 1080P projectors despite the lower resolution. In my experience, lower resolution can create a perception of better sharpness. I would wait to see some of the new single chip 4K DLPs.


----------



## terminal33

Ok so I just set up my 5040 and am watching the Rams/Seahawks game on Directv. I haven't adjusted any picture settings so it doesn't seem super impressive yet. It looks similar to my previous BenQ W1070. What basic settings should I adjust right now? I've read so much info this week that my head is bogged down and can't recall what settings to adjust right away. My screen is a basic 106" Silver Ticket screen so I know my images may not look as good as some images posted in this thread. But I'd appreciate any initial setup tips. Thanks!


----------



## gnolivos

terminal33 said:


> Ok so I just set up my 5040 and am watching the Rams/Seahawks game on Directv. I haven't adjusted any picture settings so it doesn't seem super impressive yet. It looks similar to my previous BenQ W1070. What basic settings should I adjust right now? I've read so much info this week that my head is bogged down and can't recall what settings to adjust right away. My screen is a basic 106" Silver Ticket screen so I know my images may not look as good as some images posted in this thread. But I'd appreciate any initial setup tips. Thanks!




My experience so far with cable TV, is that if the source signal is of poor quality it won't look good at all on this projector much like any other projector. But if this source signal is of a high-quality grade, it does look noticeably better than my old 1080 P projector. Just make sure you have the 4K enhancement option switched on!


----------



## terminal33

gnolivos said:


> My experience so far with cable TV, is that if the source signal is of poor quality it won't look good at all on this projector much like any other projector. But if this source signal is of a high-quality grade, it does look noticeably better than my old 1080 P projector. Just make sure you have the 4K enhancement option switched on!


I have 4K enhancement on. I just watched a few regular blu rays and I do see a slight improvement in image quality, but is it worth the $3k? At this point I'm leaning towards no. But I want to get the Philips 4K player and see how 4K blu rays look. I also did an A/B test with this Epson and my BenQ and the picture definitely is brighter on the Epson (bright cinema) and sharper. (I had image enhancement on level 5.) So as of now, yes the BenQ has a softer picture. I'm just debating whether or not it's worth being an early adopter of this Epson. I guess I'm still not impressed yet.


----------



## Don Giberson

terminal33 said:


> I have 4K enhancement on. I just watched a few regular blu rays and I do see a slight improvement in image quality, but is it worth the $3k? At this point I'm leaning towards no. But I want to get the Philips 4K player and see how 4K blu rays look. I also did an A/B test with this Epson and my BenQ and the picture definitely is brighter on the Epson (bright cinema) and sharper. (I had image enhancement on level 5.) So as of now, yes the BenQ has a softer picture. I'm just debating whether or not it's worth being an early adopter of this Epson. I guess I'm still not impressed yet.


I purchased the Philips earlier today. It included Creed. For me it was unimpressive. Dim, stuck on HDR2 despite having HDR1 selected. Netflix looked very nice but I could not get HDR or 4K to load. I purchased one of the first Sony 65" 4K direct view sets and got burned on 4K compatibility and feel I am going through a similar early adopter process with the 5040.

Why do HDR and 4K on Creed look so flat. Can someone share configuration data so I can force HDR1 with Creed? I would think Philips would bundle a disc to showcase HDR and UHD 4K.


----------



## shepdog

Don Giberson said:


> I purchased the Philips earlier today. It included Creed. For me it was unimpressive. Dim, stuck on HDR2 despite having HDR1 selected. Netflix looked very nice but I could not get HDR or 4K to load. I purchased one of the first Sony 65" 4K direct view sets and got burned on 4K compatibility and feel I am going through a similar early adopter process with the 5040.
> 
> 
> 
> Why do HDR and 4K on Creed look so flat. Can someone share configuration data so I can force HDR1 with Creed? I would think Philips would bundle a disc to showcase HDR and UHD 4K.




As far as I know no one is getting Netflix to stream HDR. I could be wrong but someone stated needs update.


----------



## TheWorkz

*5040, Nvidia Shield & 3D*

Not sure if anyone else has had this issue, but I attempted to test a 3d movie (HSBS) played back on an Nvidia shield and when I go to access the 3d settings on the 5040UB, they are all greyed out and do not allow me to access any settings. I have tried playing back through the KODI App (with 3d enabled) and Emby.. On a side note, a Win10 box (over displayport>HDMI), does allow me to access the 3d menus on the 5040 to enable Side By Side playback.

Anyone out there have any luck with Nvidia Shield connected to projector with 3d playback?


----------



## nickoakdl

Don Giberson said:


> Why do HDR and 4K on Creed look so flat. Can someone share configuration data so I can force HDR1 with Creed? I would think Philips would bundle a disc to showcase HDR and UHD 4K.


If you look at reviews of the UHD of Creed they mention that it's a disc that doesn't really benefit much from 4k or HDR, in comparison to the regular Blu-ray. Why Philips used this as the disc to show off their player beats me...


----------



## aaranddeeman

nickoakdl said:


> If you look at reviews of the UHD of Creed they mention that it's a disc that doesn't really benefit much from 4k or HDR, in comparison to the regular Blu-ray. Why Philips used this as the disc to show off their player beats me...


May be the cheapest deal they got..


----------



## canillo

Don Giberson said:


> terminal33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have 4K enhancement on. I just watched a few regular blu rays and I do see a slight improvement in image quality, but is it worth the $3k? At this point I'm leaning towards no. But I want to get the Philips 4K player and see how 4K blu rays look. I also did an A/B test with this Epson and my BenQ and the picture definitely is brighter on the Epson (bright cinema) and sharper. (I had image enhancement on level 5.) So as of now, yes the BenQ has a softer picture. I'm just debating whether or not it's worth being an early adopter of this Epson. I guess I'm still not impressed yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased the Philips earlier today. It included Creed. For me it was unimpressive. Dim, stuck on HDR2 despite having HDR1 selected. Netflix looked very nice but I could not get HDR or 4K to load. I purchased one of the first Sony 65" 4K direct view sets and got burned on 4K compatibility and feel I am going through a similar early adopter process with the 5040.
> 
> Why do HDR and 4K on Creed look so flat. Can someone share configuration data so I can force HDR1 with Creed? I would think Philips would bundle a disc to showcase HDR and UHD 4K.
Click to expand...

guys....I had the same experience with The martian...not very good 4k HDR bluray...then put on Lucy ...and wow...thats when I really noticed the difference.Not every movie is going to pop the HDR capabilities..that is why on every tech event they use the same clips all the time. To the point that now companies like samsung, LG, sony show their own content to make their product shine more. Imagine someone that spends 15k or more to get that slight improvement. Trust me when you put a 15k next to the epson 3k...you dont see the $12,000 diference..but compare the 2,000 benq or 2k sony or even the 2k epson 5030 and you can see why a lot of people spend the extra $1,000 for the 5040ub. If you already have a projector then of course it seems like a bigger investment.


----------



## terminal33

canillo said:


> guys....I had the same experience with The martian...not very good 4k HDR bluray...then put on Lucy ...and wow...thats when I really noticed the difference.Not every movie is going to pop the HDR capabilities..that is why on every tech event they use the same clips all the time. To the point that now companies like samsung, LG, sony show their own content to make their product shine more. Imagine someone that spends 15k or more to get that slight improvement. Trust me when you put a 15k next to the epson 3k...you dont see the $12,000 diference..but compare the 2,000 benq or 2k sony or even the 2k epson 5030 and you can see why a lot of people spend the extra $1,000 for the 5040ub. If you already have a projector then of course it seems like a bigger investment.


After some more A/B comparisons with my BenQ W1070 I realize that the Epson is noticeably superior. It's almost like the bulb needed to break in for an hour or something (I know that sounds dumb). But now I see how much brighter and sharper the images are. 

What image enhancement level do you use? I've kept mine at 5 just to get use to it. Basically it's like a Darbee, but does affect the color as well. My wife likes that we can turn on the lights and still have a watchable picture on the Epson. 

I ordered the Philips player and will pick it up tomorrow. I don't have Lucy but I borrowed The Revenant from a friend and hope to see another noticeable difference in PQ between 4K and 2K blu rays. My current blu ray player is an old Panny BDT-220. I viewed some scenes from Oblivion and it was nice. But will the Philips player provide an even better 2K picture than the Panny? I'm hoping it will since I have a bunch of regular blu rays. I plan to just rent 4K blu rays for now and buy the must-owns. 

Right now I'm leaning towards keeping the Epson and considering it worth the upgrade. But if the Philips and 4K image doesn't impress, I may just return it and wait. Perhaps I was expecting too much of an upgrade over my BenQ, but right now I haven't been blown away by the PQ of this Epson.


----------



## canillo

terminal33 said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> guys....I had the same experience with The martian...not very good 4k HDR bluray...then put on Lucy ...and wow...thats when I really noticed the difference.Not every movie is going to pop the HDR capabilities..that is why on every tech event they use the same clips all the time. To the point that now companies like samsung, LG, sony show their own content to make their product shine more. Imagine someone that spends 15k or more to get that slight improvement. Trust me when you put a 15k next to the epson 3k...you dont see the $12,000 diference..but compare the 2,000 benq or 2k sony or even the 2k epson 5030 and you can see why a lot of people spend the extra $1,000 for the 5040ub. If you already have a projector then of course it seems like a bigger investment.
> 
> 
> 
> After some more A/B comparisons with my BenQ W1070 I realize that the Epson is noticeably superior. It's almost like the bulb needed to break in for an hour or something (I know that sounds dumb). But now I see how much brighter and sharper the images are.
> 
> What image enhancement level do you use? I've kept mine at 5 just to get use to it. Basically it's like a Darbee, but does affect the color as well. My wife likes that we can turn on the lights and still have a watchable picture on the Epson.
> 
> I ordered the Philips player and will pick it up tomorrow. I don't have Lucy but I borrowed The Revenant from a friend and hope to see another noticeable difference in PQ between 4K and 2K blu rays. My current blu ray player is an old Panny BDT-220. I viewed some scenes from Oblivion and it was nice. But will the Philips player provide an even better 2K picture than the Panny? I'm hoping it will since I have a bunch of regular blu rays. I plan to just rent 4K blu rays for now and buy the must-owns.
> 
> Right now I'm leaning towards keeping the Epson and considering it worth the upgrade. But if the Philips and 4K image doesn't impress, I may just return it and wait. Perhaps I was expecting too much of an upgrade over my BenQ, but right now I haven't been blown away by the PQ of this Epson.
Click to expand...

good to hear your finding the beauty of the epson. I have not seen the revenant in 4k yet so cant really say. But creed and the martian are not really the best to test the epson. I use my enhancement on 4..but 3 also works great. depends on the movie....some movies you can crank it up to 5 with no problems...other movies 3 is the most you can do before it starts getting tooo sharp. I have the panasonic bdt 460 and dont really notice any diferrence from the philips 4k player when using 1080p content. I think Im one of the minority that preffers to watch some movies at 1080p 60p with the frame interpolation, instead of 4k upsclaled. So i think I will keep my panasonic for 1080p content so I dont have to switch back and fw the settings. we have to see if the new oppo does a better job at upscaling 1080p content. again my panasonic is really good at upscaling dont know how good is yours, some may notice a difference from their 1080p player vs their 4k player. 
Also ....what screen are you using???this might sound silly but I think that a screen could be fine for a 1080p projector but at the same time not enought smoothness for a 4k projector,so the texture on the screen might make you believe your not getting a sharper image. 

go to a local dealer ..check out JVC, Sony or what ever brand you think it might be an upgrade..Take your projector ...some places will allow you to connect it for comparision. and then decide...i dont think that projectors will get A LOT BETTER than the epson..at least not for less than $15,000 any time soon. That is why I am keeping mine.


----------



## shepdog

canillo said:


> go to a local dealer ..check out JVC, Sony or what ever brand you think it might be an upgrade..Take your projector ...some places will allow you to connect it for comparision. and then decide...i dont think that projectors will get A LOT BETTER than the epson..at least not for less than $15,000 any time soon. That is why I am keeping mine.




I didn't take my projector but this is exactly what I did. 

I went and checked out the JVC, Sony and I think Barco. After I spent about 2 hours one afternoon, I returned with my wife. After another 2 hours of hand wringing and turning lights on and off she looked at me and said. You did good. 


The only real debate is the JVC 400. If you can get it for about the same price than I probably would. It was not worth the extra to me. In a blacked out room the JVC has a tad more pop on certain movies. The slightest amount of light eliminated this in my opinion. 

No way would I spend the money for the JVC 500 or any of the Sonys. The Barco was not even a consideration. 

If I had a dedicated room with complete light control I honestly would consider the JVC 400 and Epson 5040. (Obviously I bought the 5040)They are both great. I've already got over 100 hrs on my projector so the bulb cost is also important. 

I didn't have a previous projector. 

If I did and was happy with it than I would probably have waited until the HDR stuff is more stable. However I don't think anything is coming out anytime soon near this price point. I'm getting to enjoy 4K now. 

Honestly if I hadn't purchased the Epson I would have went down a level it purchased the Sony 45es

If you are unhappy get something else. It's too much money to try and convince yourself otherwise regardless of what we may say on here. 

Find something that YOU connect with.


----------



## hoogs

Can the 5040ub do 120hz @ 1080p when connected to a PC? It does have HDMI 2.0 but I don't know if that is all that is required to achieve 120hz.


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

Not sure if it's worth upgrading from my w1080 after the recent feedback :/


----------



## sieden

Can anyone confirm:
1080p @ 60hz 4:2:0 HDR sent to the projector and the projector actually displaying 4K Enhanced 1080p 60hz HDR 4:2:0?
or is 60hz HDR 4:2:0 simply not possible due to the bandwidth of the HDMI input on the projector?


----------



## shepdog

NeO_Sk8eR said:


> Not sure if it's worth upgrading from my w1080 after the recent feedback :/




I wish I could give feedback to those who currently have a projector. 

This is my first projector and I love it. 

I will say this. The only two projectors I would consider are the Epson and JVC that's it. Nothing else is close. Their are some great 1080p projectors but without the ability to play 4K why buy them?

Because of this thread I went out and looked at ALL the under $15k 4K projectors. If price was no issue I think I would buy the pixel shift JVC 500. 

If you can get a NEW JVC 400 for $3k that would be 2nd. No one I talked to would make that deal 

I would put the Epson 5040 next 

For me it was easy. I choose the Epson. Price, performance equation was good for me. 

If you can go look. Don't listen to anyone on a message board. The screenshots are fun but really meaningless.

That's as honest as I can get. 

I absolutely love this projector. 

I'm averaging about 4-5 hrs a day so far. I'm too busy enjoying it to get bogged down in the specs. It is a fabulous bargain in my opinion. My highest praise is the fact I spent my money on it and kept it after evaluating all other contenders. All of us who own it can only give you our experience. 

It was a big chunk of money for me. At the very extreme edge of what I could afford and frankly a little more.


----------



## utkinpol

Hi, if anybody here uses WD TV streamer box, could you confirm if 5040 correctly receives 3D SBS .mkv files from it and plays them with no issues?


----------



## gnolivos

Those considering a JVC for its black levels, I can tell you from experience that you need more than just an awesome blacked out bat cave to take advantage of those deep blacks. You will need to have the entire vicinity of the screen blacked out with velvet, have flat black paint everywhere else, not even the smallest equipment light on, and a myriad of other considerations to the Nth degree of obsessiveness to truly make such a projector shine over say, an Epson 5040. 

If you have the money and the time to get to that level of perfection then absolutely by all means get one of those awesome JVCs. I have a professional theatre room but several limiting factors prevent me from getting that extra reduced light reflection. So for me it makes absolutely no difference between those 2 projectors. 

Just wanted to make sure people understood what it really takes for a JVC to shine.


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

shepdog said:


> I wish I could give feedback to those who currently have a projector.
> 
> This is my first projector and I love it.
> 
> I will say this. The only two projectors I would consider are the Epson and JVC that's it. Nothing else is close. Their are some great 1080p projectors but without the ability to play 4K why buy them?
> 
> Because of this thread I went out and looked at ALL the under $15k 4K projectors. If price was no issue I think I would buy the pixel shift JVC 500.
> 
> If you can get a NEW JVC 400 for $3k that would be 2nd. No one I talked to would make that deal
> 
> I would put the Epson 5040 next
> 
> For me it was easy. I choose the Epson. Price, performance equation was good for me.
> 
> If you can go look. Don't listen to anyone on a message board. The screenshots are fun but really meaningless.


Not saying it's not a great pj 
just saying from the above opinions of someone who's had both, it's not thousands better 
unfortunately nowhere near me has demos (i'm in the UK)


----------



## Don Giberson

I am underwhelmed by the Epson. The picture, though bright with good black levels just doesn't float my boat. HDR from my experience is useless based on watching Creed. Netflix 4K and HDR does not seem to work with the Epson. A relative who bought a Sony has had immediate success. The aperature ratio is poor compared to the JVC DILA. The company from whom I purchased the unit won't let me return the unit now that I have over 10 hours on it despite a 30 day return offer. I will likely reinstall my DLP and sell the Epson. When a company promotes 4K and HDR capability, it would be nice if there was a way to use the capabilities. The price you pay for being an early adopter. If Netflix worked, I might have a different opinion.


----------



## hoogs

Don check your PM


----------



## Jasinto

Don Giberson said:


> I am underwhelmed by the Epson. The picture, though bright with good black levels just doesn't float my boat. HDR from my experience is useless based on watching Creed. Netflix 4K and HDR does not seem to work with the Epson. A relative who bought a Sony has had immediate success. The aperature ratio is poor compared to the JVC DILA. The company from whom I purchased the unit won't let me return the unit now that I have over 10 hours on it despite a 30 day return offer. I will likely reinstall my DLP and sell the Epson. When a company promotes 4K and HDR capability, it would be nice if there was a way to use the capabilities. The price you pay for being an early adopter. If Netflix worked, I might have a different opinion.



Is hard to believe 720p proyector looks better ,even from this high quality infocus, although is good to hear different opinions 

Using e-shift do not see advantage over the infocus picture? or you think lost dlp touch.

I am dlp lover too but I am thinking buy this epson and i need opinions.

How look this proyector compared to benq ht3050 with the rec 709 thing?

Saludos


----------



## gnolivos

I've owned DLP in focus and they do have more pop. But I gave LCD a chance and after a few weeks I was fine. It takes adapting to a different 'feel' or 'look' of each technology. There are nuances but they are real. I suggest you keep it for a few weeks and see what you think. This really is one of the absolute best images a $3000 projector has ever managed to throw, so it's hard to believe you would not be satisfied if you can get over the different feel of the image.


----------



## shepdog

Don Giberson said:


> I am underwhelmed by the Epson. The picture, though bright with good black levels just doesn't float my boat. HDR from my experience is useless based on watching Creed. Netflix 4K and HDR does not seem to work with the Epson. A relative who bought a Sony has had immediate success. The aperature ratio is poor compared to the JVC DILA. The company from whom I purchased the unit won't let me return the unit now that I have over 10 hours on it despite a 30 day return offer. I will likely reinstall my DLP and sell the Epson. When a company promotes 4K and HDR capability, it would be nice if there was a way to use the capabilities. The price you pay for being an early adopter. If Netflix worked, I might have a different opinion.




Maybe you can buy the same Sony your relative has if you like it. You've already seen it so you know what your getting.


----------



## shepdog

NeO_Sk8eR said:


> Not saying it's not a great pj
> 
> just saying from the above opinions of someone who's had both, it's not thousands better
> 
> unfortunately nowhere near me has demos (i'm in the UK)




Understood. 
However unless you are paying upwards of 5k you have limited choices. 
Everyone is going to have different opinions. Based on my prior experiences with projectors it's 1000x better. The last time I looked at projectors was in 2010. It's 1000x better to me. 

Now that I'm back in the game I can say the Epson doesn't look bad next to $15k projectors. It just doesn't. It may not be for everyone but it is without a doubt a great projector.


----------



## sunnyvali

gnolivos said:


> Those considering a JVC for its black levels, I can tell you from experience that you need more than just an awesome blacked out bat cave to take advantage of those deep blacks. You will need to have the entire vicinity of the screen blacked out with velvet, have flat black paint everywhere else, not even the smallest equipment light on, and a myriad of other considerations to the Nth degree of obsessiveness to truly make such a projector shine over say, an Epson 5040.
> 
> If you have the money and the time to get to that level of perfection then absolutely by all means get one of those awesome JVCs. I have a professional theatre room but several limiting factors prevent me from getting that extra reduced light reflection. So for me it makes absolutely no difference between those 2 projectors.
> 
> Just wanted to make sure people understood what it really takes for a JVC to shine.


I agree. I was going to replace my Epson 5040 for the JVC. However, after reading a bit more and given my projector watching environment, I decided against it. I'll take that price difference and invest in an ALR screen. 

Just yesterday, we have neighbors' kids over to watch Angry Birds. There is no way I can turn all the lights off as I have two rows of seating with steps up the second row. Plus the popcorn and other breaks the kids want to take....


----------



## terminal33

NeO_Sk8eR said:


> Not sure if it's worth upgrading from my w1080 after the recent feedback :/


Here is a comparison picture I took last night with my Galaxy S7 from the blu ray, Oblivion. I took them just for reference for myself, but perhaps they will help you. 

*Epson 5040ub vs. BenQ W1070*
- 106" Silver Ticket 1.1 gain screen
- Panasonic BDT220 blu ray player (bought in 2012)
- Epson on bright cinema with image enhancement on 5
- ambient light in room

Let me know if you want me to take more pics tonight. I can compare Directv images as well.


----------



## canillo

terminal33 said:


> NeO_Sk8eR said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if it's worth upgrading from my w1080 after the recent feedback :/
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a comparison picture I took last night with my Galaxy S7 from the blu ray, Oblivion. I took them just for reference for myself, but perhaps they will help you.
> 
> *Epson 5040ub vs. BenQ W1070*
> - 106" Silver Ticket 1.1 gain screen
> - Panasonic BDT220 blu ray player (bought in 2012)
> - Epson on bright cinema with image enhancement on 5
> - ambient light in room
> 
> Let me know if you want me to take more pics tonight. I can compare Directv images as well.
Click to expand...

I asume epson is the second picture....wow...what a difference..


----------



## hoogs

Wow that's a HUGE difference


----------



## Viche

Don Giberson said:


> I am underwhelmed by the Epson. The picture, though bright with good black levels just doesn't float my boat. HDR from my experience is useless based on watching Creed. Netflix 4K and HDR does not seem to work with the Epson. A relative who bought a Sony has had immediate success. The *aperature ratio* is poor compared to the JVC DILA. The company from whom I purchased the unit won't let me return the unit now that I have over 10 hours on it despite a 30 day return offer. I will likely reinstall my DLP and sell the Epson. When a company promotes 4K and HDR capability, it would be nice if there was a way to use the capabilities. The price you pay for being an early adopter. If Netflix worked, I might have a different opinion.


aperature ratio?


----------



## Dirk504

Can this peerless mount work with the Epson 5040? I originally bought it to go with the Sony 45ES, but I may be going with this projector instead.

https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRG...qid=1474307544&sr=1-1&keywords=peerless+mount


----------



## Viche

terminal33 said:


> Here is a comparison picture I took last night with my Galaxy S7 from the blu ray, Oblivion. I took them just for reference for myself, but perhaps they will help you.
> 
> *Epson 5040ub vs. BenQ W1070*
> - 106" Silver Ticket 1.1 gain screen
> - Panasonic BDT220 blu ray player (bought in 2012)
> - Epson on bright cinema with image enhancement on 5
> - ambient light in room
> 
> Let me know if you want me to take more pics tonight. I can compare Directv images as well.


Contrast and color are better, but that sharpness is way over the top to me. It would be great if you could take several pics with other settings. Maybe image enhancement on 0 and 3? Do you have HDR mode 1 turned on?


----------



## zdog777

New Epson 5040 owner here.
Question are the Image preset mode options a setting that I change for each mode? Or is it preset from factory and each mode has a different setting?


----------



## Number05

Dirk504 said:


> Can this peerless mount work with the Epson 5040? I originally bought it to go with the Sony 45ES, but I may be going with this projector instead.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRG...qid=1474307544&sr=1-1&keywords=peerless+mount


Yep, I bought this one too (but in white) based on another users feedback that had tested with a 5040.

Still waiting though to get my 5040 in Canada.


----------



## flyinmunky99

Viche said:


> Contrast and color are better, but that sharpness is way over the top to me. It would be great if you could take several pics with other settings. Maybe image enhancement on 0 and 3? Do you have HDR mode 1 turned on?


He list a standard bluray player not a UHD one so Its the old Oblivion bluray not the new UHD version so no HDR option.

I agree the sharpness is way to hard. I would also like to see it at setting 0 to 3.

I get the feeling setting 2 will be the best set and forget option but 3 may also be decent without being too hard.

Cheers for pics.


----------



## terminal33

Viche said:


> Contrast and color are better, but that sharpness is way over the top to me. It would be great if you could take several pics with other settings. Maybe image enhancement on 0 and 3? Do you have HDR mode 1 turned on?





flyinmunky99 said:


> He list a standard bluray player not a UHD one so Its the old Oblivion bluray not the new UHD version so no HDR option.
> 
> I agree the sharpness is way to hard. I would also like to see it at setting 0 to 3.
> 
> I get the feeling setting 2 will be the best set and forget option but 3 may also be decent without being too hard.
> 
> Cheers for pics.


I will post more pics with various settings after work. But yes, this is from a standard blu ray player. I am getting the Philips today so I can take pics from that as well.


----------



## swoosh1325

I posted some pics before and talked about how much I love this projector but after having the weekend to take in some football I am in love. Ive had the 5030ub since the day it came out and always thought a picture cant possibly get better than this, boy was I wrong. My 5030ub never saw the day if could put out a picture like this. The upscale of regular 1080 cable tv is insane, I felt like I was on the sidelines of the games. If you are on the fence or worried about upgrading from something newer like I was , worry no longer as there is a very very noticeable upgrade in picture quality over just the upscaled 1080p content. Dont even get me started on how good the 4K content looks.


----------



## hoogs

swoosh1325 said:


> I posted some pics before and talked about how much I love this projector but after having the weekend to take in some football I am in love. Ive had the 5030ub since the day it came out and always thought a picture cant possibly get better than this, boy was I wrong. My 5030ub never saw the day if could put out a picture like this. The upscale of regular 1080 cable tv is insane, I felt like I was on the sidelines of the games. If you are on the fence or worried about upgrading from something newer like I was , worry no longer as there is a very very noticeable upgrade in picture quality over just the upscaled 1080p content. Dont even get me started on how good the 4K content looks.


What are your settings, just curious as far as Enhancement.


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

terminal33 said:


> Here is a comparison picture I took last night with my Galaxy S7 from the blu ray, Oblivion. I took them just for reference for myself, but perhaps they will help you.
> 
> *Epson 5040ub vs. BenQ W1070*
> - 106" Silver Ticket 1.1 gain screen
> - Panasonic BDT220 blu ray player (bought in 2012)
> - Epson on bright cinema with image enhancement on 5
> - ambient light in room
> 
> Let me know if you want me to take more pics tonight. I can compare Directv images as well.


That would be really great! Thank you


----------



## spiroh

For those of you with the Epson 5040 has anyone been able to successfully calibrate the bright cinema to make it look accurate? Concern is using the regular cinema mode might not be bright enough. Thanks


----------



## Don Giberson

Viche said:


> aperature ratio?


The aperture ratio is between the transparent or reflective area, excluding the pixel's wiring area, the transistor area (usually hidden by a black matrix), and the whole pixel area. As the open area ratio gets higher, light penetrates or reflects more efficiently.

Effectively, it is the ratio of the non imaging area of the panel to the imaging area. LCOS (Sony and JVC) is very good, DLP and LCD are not nearly as good. I am referencing the dark area between the pixels. More noticeable than I expected on the Epson given the pixel shifting.


----------



## Viche

Don Giberson said:


> The aperture ratio is between the transparent or reflective area, excluding the pixel's wiring area, the transistor area (usually hidden by a black matrix), and the whole pixel area. As the open area ratio gets higher, light penetrates or reflects more efficiently.
> 
> Effectively, it is the ratio of the non imaging area of the panel to the imaging area. LCOS (Sony and JVC) is very good, DLP and LCD are not nearly as good. I am referencing the dark area between the pixels. More noticeable than I expected on the Epson given the pixel shifting.


Ah.....basically pixel gap/SDE. Thanks


----------



## Waffles

terminal33 said:


> Here is a comparison picture I took last night with my Galaxy S7 from the blu ray, Oblivion. I took them just for reference for myself, but perhaps they will help you.
> 
> *Epson 5040ub vs. BenQ W1070*
> - 106" Silver Ticket 1.1 gain screen
> - Panasonic BDT220 blu ray player (bought in 2012)
> - Epson on bright cinema with image enhancement on 5
> - ambient light in room
> 
> Let me know if you want me to take more pics tonight. I can compare Directv images as well.



Epson definitely has a much more sharper, defined image compared to the somewhat washed out Benq image.


----------



## Waffles

This thing is just ridiculously enormous......me holding it at Best Buy


----------



## flyinmunky99

Waffles said:


> This thing is just ridiculously enormous......me holding it at Best Buy
> 
> 
> 
> Almost looks like your wearing it like armour and your head is sticking out lol. That looks huge! Now I'm worried by custom shelf can handle it


----------



## gnolivos

flyinmunky99 said:


> Waffles said:
> 
> 
> 
> This thing is just ridiculously enormous......me holding it at Best Buy
> 
> 
> 
> Almost looks like your wearing it like armour and your head is sticking out lol. That looks huge! Now I'm worried by custom shelf can handle it
> 
> 
> 
> It's huge but that picture is waaay misleading LOL. he's holding it closer to the camera. It's really nowehere THAT big hahaha
Click to expand...


----------



## Snoogleheimer

gnolivos said:


> flyinmunky99 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's huge but that picture is waaay misleading LOL. he's holding it closer to the camera. It's really nowehere THAT big hahaha
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, I believe you are correct. At first, I thought, OMG! WTF!
Click to expand...


----------



## imapfsr

Number05 said:


> Yep, I bought this one too (but in white) based on another users feedback that had tested with a 5040.
> 
> Still waiting though to get my 5040 in Canada.


Number5,
I just bought mine from Richard at Quebec Acoustic. He has them in stock at a good price.
Mine is overnight delivery and will be here tomorrow. Going to be real hard working with that box in my office tomorrow.


----------



## Smarty-pants

imapfsr said:


> Number5,
> I just bought mine from Richard at Quebec Acoustic. He has them in stock at a good price.
> Mine is overnight delivery and will be here tomorrow. Going to be real hard working with that box in my office tomorrow.


Hmm, anyone in the US selling it at a "good price"?


----------



## Kelvin1000

I have to do more testing but the Panasonic HDR seems to be playing nice with the Epson though I much prefer the HDR1 setting instead of the default HDR2.

HDR1 Bright Cinema:


HDR1 Cinema:


HDR2 Bright Cinema:


SDR:


Here is also the JVC X550R with the updated firmware and using the recommended JVC settings as a comparison:



With HDR engaged, the images on both projectors are very colorful but a bit more dim than I would like.

I think that many folks are right when they recommend the HD Fury which keeps the 2020 colors but without the dimming effects of HDR.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

kevinlg said:


> Has anyone gone from the 55ES to the 5040/6040? or even the 40ES?
> 
> Still thinking if it is worth the upgrade or not.


I went from a HW50ES to this 5040ub


----------



## canillo

Don Giberson said:


> I am underwhelmed by the Epson. The picture, though bright with good black levels just doesn't float my boat. HDR from my experience is useless based on watching Creed. Netflix 4K and HDR does not seem to work with the Epson. A relative who bought a Sony has had immediate success. The aperature ratio is poor compared to the JVC DILA. The company from whom I purchased the unit won't let me return the unit now that I have over 10 hours on it despite a 30 day return offer. I will likely reinstall my DLP and sell the Epson. When a company promotes 4K and HDR capability, it would be nice if there was a way to use the capabilities. The price you pay for being an early adopter. If Netflix worked, I might have a different opinion.


you keep using creed as your example when we have mention here many times that that is not the best movie to test the HDR capabilities. HDR is nothing more than darker blacks and whiter whites...everything in bewteen does not get directly impacted but its does look diferent since this effect makes the colors pop more. A movie with not a lot of color variation will not show this improvement very much. specs on the projector that you mentioned are amazing but specs are not everything. The epson is sharper than the JVC and colors pop more..brighter than the sony..its seems like the aperture specs will provide better blacks something that we all know LCoS is the industry leader. If you spend more money and are able to provide a complete pitch black room then you will prob see the advantage on the JVc's black. Please do a direct comparision with a movie like lucy vs your DLP projector and post some pictures. That way the fellow memebers have a clear idea of the arguments you are making. As good as your DLp is I have a hard time believing the image is comparable to the epson using it at its max performance. We want to make sure you test the epson with the apropiate content before you make a final judment , since fellow members can get confused . I actually started finding flaws on this projector...then went personally to the hi end dealers and took a look at jvc sony benq and realize what an amazing projector the epson is. for 3 k I was getting the performance of a 8k and 10k +. I will upload some images again of lucy so you have an idea


----------



## Viche

Kelvin1000 said:


> I have to do more testing but the Panasonic HDR seems to be playing nice with the Epson though I much prefer the HDR1 setting instead of the default HDR2.
> 
> HDR1 Bright Cinema:
> 
> 
> HDR1 Cinema:
> 
> 
> HDR2 Bright Cinema:
> 
> 
> SDR:
> 
> 
> Here is also the JVC X550R with the updated firmware and using the recommended JVC settings as a comparison:
> 
> 
> 
> With HDR engaged, the images on both projectors are very colorful but a bit more dim than I would like.
> 
> I think that many folks are right when they recommend the HD Fury which keeps the 2020 colors but without the dimming effects of HDR.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


From the pics, SDR has a slight color advantage over HDR 1 bright cinema. HDR 1 cinema's colors look wacked out. And the JVC's shadow detail is crushed ( i've noticed this in Art's shadow detail comparison images as well )

Do you see any of the above in real life? 

Which JVC is that in US model numbers?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dirk504 said:


> Can this peerless mount work with the Epson 5040? I originally bought it to go with the Sony 45ES, but I may be going with this projector instead.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRG...qid=1474307544&sr=1-1&keywords=peerless+mount


Yes. It should work.


----------



## Josuah

k3nnis said:


> I plan to use near or at full vertical shift for this projector. Any issues with distortion or quality?


I have almost full vertical shift. No problems at all.



shepdog said:


> What RGB and gain settings did you use?


The only settings I changed under Digital Cinema are the RGB offset and gain values. The remainder were left untouched.

Offset R: 52
Offset G: 51
Offset B: 52
Gain R: 66
Gain G: 51
Gain B: 49



Don Giberson said:


> This is my first active iris projector and the transition while throttling light can often be seen. Edge ringing is obvious and I can't seem to find a workaround. The HDR capability, discussed ad nauseum, was one of the reasons I moved forward with the purchase. No question I should have done more research.
> 
> Also, I have an older legacy sound system, Wilson Watt 6 Puppies, Krell, Wavestream using Onkyo for processing that is not HDCP 2.2 compatible. Can I use optical input and still get HDR from the Philips or other compatible players?


Iris transition is only noticeable to me when going from completely dark to light, or vice versa. It takes a fraction of a second to catch up. And it is completely silent. I am coming from the Epson 6500UB which was slower to respond and audible.

Edge ringing can be disabled by turning off the image enhancement settings. I have them set to off, even though preset 1 can make things look nicer.

The Philips BDP7501 actually has two HDMI outputs, so you can connect one via HDCP v2.2 to your display and a second to your processor or receiver, and thus get full lossless PCM or bitstream audio instead of the lower quality choices you would be restricted to over S/PDIF. However I have not tried this.


----------



## canillo

Kelvin1000 said:


> I have to do more testing but the Panasonic HDR seems to be playing nice with the Epson though I much prefer the HDR1 setting instead of the default HDR2.
> 
> HDR1 Bright Cinema:
> 
> 
> HDR1 Cinema:
> 
> 
> HDR2 Bright Cinema:
> 
> 
> SDR:
> 
> 
> Here is also the JVC X550R with the updated firmware and using the recommended JVC settings as a comparison:
> 
> 
> 
> With HDR engaged, the images on both projectors are very colorful but a bit more dim than I would like.
> 
> I think that many folks are right when they recommend the HD Fury which keeps the 2020 colors but without the dimming effects of HDR.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


do you have any other conparisions between these 2? lucky you that got the chance of an side by side comparision.


----------



## k3nnis

Josuah said:


> I have almost full vertical shift. No problems at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only settings I changed under Digital Cinema are the RGB offset and gain values. The remainder were left untouched.
> 
> 
> 
> Offset R: 52
> 
> Offset G: 51
> 
> Offset B: 52
> 
> Gain R: 66
> 
> Gain G: 51
> 
> Gain B: 49
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Iris transition is only noticeable to me when going from completely dark to light, or vice versa. It takes a fraction of a second to catch up. And it is completely silent. I am coming from the Epson 6500UB which was slower to respond and audible.
> 
> 
> 
> Edge ringing can be disabled by turning off the image enhancement settings. I have them set to off, even though preset 1 can make things look nicer.
> 
> 
> 
> The Philips BDP7501 actually has two HDMI outputs, so you can connect one via HDCP v2.2 to your display and a second to your processor or receiver, and thus get full lossless PCM or bitstream audio instead of the lower quality choices you would be restricted to over S/PDIF. However I have not tried this.




Ok thanks. Did you use any horizontal shift?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

Viche said:


> From the pics, SDR has a slight color advantage over HDR 1 bright cinema. HDR 1 cinema's colors look wacked out. And the JVC's shadow detail is crushed ( i've noticed this in Art's shadow detail comparison images as well )
> 
> 
> 
> Do you see any of the above in real life?
> 
> 
> 
> Which JVC is that in US model numbers?




They both look better live but you need perfect ambient light control or its too dim.

I honestly prefer the Panasonic SDR conversion which to my eyes looks quite good.

Maybe someone can chime in on HDR versus HDFury with 2020 on the Epson. The JVC guys swear by it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shepdog

canillo said:


> do you have any other conparisions between these 2? lucky you that got the chance of an side by side comparision.




What is the difference between cinema and digital cinema?

Cinema seems to be warmer.


----------



## Josuah

shepdog said:


> Optical will not work. You can run HDMI from whatever player you choose to the projector than run a second cable from player to your processor.


Optical will work if he is OK with lower quality audio sources.



k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks. Did you use any horizontal shift?


Yes, but only a little bit.

Also, it's extremely important to do the RGB alignment calibration including the four corners. I had two 5040UB's here and the first was very unaligned, the second just a bit but still noticeable.

Focus is relatively easy to get with digital adjustment, because you'll see the pixels shift horizontally and then vertically, or vice versa, once you hit the right focal point.


----------



## k3nnis

Josuah said:


> Optical will work if he is OK with lower quality audio sources.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but only a little bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, it's extremely important to do the RGB alignment calibration including the four corners. I had two 5040UB's here and the first was very unaligned, the second just a bit but still noticeable.
> 
> 
> 
> Focus is relatively easy to get with digital adjustment, because you'll see the pixels shift horizontally and then vertically, or vice versa, once you hit the right focal point.




Thanks. Is alignment easy to do? Is it all automatic?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Josuah

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. Is alignment easy to do? Is it all automatic?


It is digitally controlled via the remote. It is not automatic in the sense you have to use your eyeballs and manually press the buttons to make the panels move the way you want them to until you think it is lined up correctly. But the control is digital, not analogue, if that's what you meant.


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks. Sounds easy enough  so this is the first thing I should do once I have mounted the projector and screen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## canillo

I think that many folks are right when they recommend the HD Fury which keeps the 2020 colors but without the dimming effects of HDR.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
___________________________________________

anyone has any idea on wich fury does the action described in this post? i went to their web page and they have a few options and not a lot of info. This would be awsome because Ive seen many projectors at very hight prices fail to produce HDR images with out dimming...IMO no projector with under 4,000 lumens will provide the necesary nits to display a non dimmed HDR image.


----------



## Viche

Kelvin1000 said:


> They both look better live but you need perfect ambient light control or its too dim.
> 
> I honestly prefer the Panasonic SDR conversion which to my eyes looks quite good.
> 
> Maybe someone can chime in on HDR versus HDFury with 2020 on the Epson. The JVC guys swear by it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So that SDR image is how many bit and what color space?

Any comment on crushed shadow detail with the JVC?


----------



## shepdog

Is the lack of HDR on Netflix specific to the Epson or is it a Netflix issue that will not be corrected until Netflix fixes it on there end?


----------



## Kelvin1000

Viche said:


> So that SDR image is how many bit and what color space?
> 
> 
> 
> Any comment on crushed shadow detail with the JVC?



The SDR is 709 (take a look at the info in each screenshot)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

Alright guys, as promised earlier, here are some samples with the new Philips 4K player. These are Galaxy S7 shots from the standard blu ray of Oblivion - Ambient light - 106" Silver Ticket 1.1 Gain Screen - Bright Cinema Mode. I will be posting more samples, including Directv images. But it's hard with the Monday Night Football game on.


----------



## shepdog

Kelvin1000 said:


> They both look better live but you need perfect ambient light control or its too dim.
> 
> I honestly prefer the Panasonic SDR conversion which to my eyes looks quite good.
> 
> Maybe someone can chime in on HDR versus HDFury with 2020 on the Epson. The JVC guys swear by it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




So the fury keeps the color space at 2020 but keeps the brightness at sdr levels?

Is that a accurate statement?


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks. So this is a standard 1080P Blu ray disk?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. So this is a standard 1080P Blu ray disk?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes.


----------



## terminal33

Another shot from Oblivion - 1080P. (I only did Image Enhancement 2-5)


----------



## Kelvin1000

shepdog said:


> So the fury keeps the color space at 2020 but keeps the brightness at sdr levels?
> 
> Is that a accurate statement?




Yes, it keeps the 2020 without the HDR.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rgg14

*Enhanced*

I own the 5040ube for a month, for HD tv the righ enhancement setting is 3, but watching 4K video 4 and 5 look awesome.


----------



## canillo

Kelvin1000 said:


> shepdog said:
> 
> 
> 
> So the fury keeps the color space at 2020 but keeps the brightness at sdr levels?
> 
> Is that a accurate statement?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it keeps the 2020 without the HDR.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

model number???


----------



## terminal33

Ok last shots of 1080P Oblivion blu ray. I will post some Directv images from tonight's game later. I also will post some 4K images from The Revenant 4K blu ray disc. Side Note: With ambient lighting or darker, I prefer to watch in Natural mode, as opposed to Bright Cinema.


----------



## imapfsr

Smarty-pants said:


> Hmm, anyone in the US selling it at a "good price"?


Just be glad you don't have to pay Canadian prices where we dinged an extra $400 over the US price plus conversion etc. Good deal eh!


----------



## Smarty-pants

imapfsr said:


> Just be glad you don't have to pay Canadian prices where we dinged an extra $400 over the US price plus conversion etc. Good deal eh!


I always have to shake my head when I see a post like that.
I pay about $1000 per month on average for my medical expenses. How much do you pay?
I'd love to trade places with you and pay a little more for some toys instead.


----------



## Josuah

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks. Sounds easy enough  so this is the first thing I should do once I have mounted the projector and screen?


Making sure the menus are readable and not backwards or upsides down is what I did first.  Then position, zoom, and focus. Then the alignment. Then the color.


shepdog said:


> Is the lack of HDR on Netflix specific to the Epson or is it a Netflix issue that will not be corrected until Netflix fixes it on there end?


I believe it is due to the player (whatever you are using) not reporting the necessary characteristics to Netflix on app startup. That would be HDCP v2.2, 4K, and HDR. Possibly due to how the player and display are communicating. If the right stuff is advertised to the app then Netflix will try to stream UHD.


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks for the tips 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

Ok, I must have some wrong setting. Why does The Revenant 4K blu ray look so green? I'm using the HDMI cable that came with the Philips 4K blu ray player. Even though the Epson menu shows HDR2, it's really in HDR1 mode.


----------



## ac388

Not too sure what to look for on Corner alignment. Is it to check if the horizontal n vertical line on that box well aligned ? Or is it to check if the box is square enough ? Or to see if all boxes are lining up to the edges to all 4 corners ?

Tks for all input in advance.


----------



## k3nnis

Could it be the cable? How long is the cable run?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

could you do some more w1070 comparisons?


----------



## terminal33

k3nnis said:


> Could it be the cable? How long is the cable run?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The cable from my AVR to the Epson is a 35ft cable, found here. Then from the blu ray player to the AVR is the one that came with the Philips blu ray player.


----------



## terminal33

NeO_Sk8eR said:


> could you do some more w1070 comparisons?


Yes I can. But it'll have to be tomorrow. Sorry.


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

terminal33 said:


> Yes I can. But it'll have to be tomorrow. Sorry.


Thank you very much  now that you've had more time to play, what's your opinion?
worth the jump?


----------



## terminal33

NeO_Sk8eR said:


> Thank you very much  now that you've had more time to play, what's your opinion?
> worth the jump?


Yes, but not an emphatic yes. I still want to see what a 4K blu ray looks. I'm not sure why The Revenant looks so green and dim. I can definitely tell that the Epson produces a sharper, brighter, and overall better image. I think I'm trapped because if I keep my BenQ, then I'll know how much worse of a picture it has and I'll keep it'll bother me knowing the Epson has a better picture. The BenQ definitely has a "good enough" picture, but now that I see the Epson's images, I think I'm going to keep it.  For now.


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

terminal33 said:


> Yes, but not an emphatic yes. I still want to see what a 4K blu ray looks. I'm not sure why The Revenant looks so green and dim. I can definitely tell that the Epson produces a sharper, brighter, and overall better image. I think I'm trapped because if I keep my BenQ, then I'll know how much worse of a picture it has and I'll keep it'll bother me knowing the Epson has a better picture. The BenQ definitely has a "good enough" picture, but now that I see the Epson's images, I think I'm going to keep it.  For now.


this is my problem now 
I was fine, but since researching I know i can get better and it's driving me nuts


----------



## terminal33

NeO_Sk8eR said:


> this is my problem now
> I was fine, but since researching I know i can get better and it's driving me nuts


Wow, I just read my previous post and realized how many grammatical errors it had; must be bed time. Anyway, I suppose it'll always be a thought that we can have something better. Eventually we just have to make a decision and enjoy. Even with this Epson, I've caught myself wondering if something better in this price range will come. I mean, it seems inevitable that more companies will produce these faux-K projectors, thus driving the prices down. Well I'll post more pics tomorrow and hopefully help you make a decision.


----------



## Don Giberson

Josuah said:


> I have almost full vertical shift. No problems at all.
> 
> 
> 
> The only settings I changed under Digital Cinema are the RGB offset and gain values. The remainder were left untouched.
> 
> Offset R: 52
> Offset G: 51
> Offset B: 52
> Gain R: 66
> Gain G: 51
> Gain B: 49
> 
> 
> 
> Iris transition is only noticeable to me when going from completely dark to light, or vice versa. It takes a fraction of a second to catch up. And it is completely silent. I am coming from the Epson 6500UB which was slower to respond and audible.
> 
> Edge ringing can be disabled by turning off the image enhancement settings. I have them set to off, even though preset 1 can make things look nicer.
> 
> The Philips BDP7501 actually has two HDMI outputs, so you can connect one via HDCP v2.2 to your display and a second to your processor or receiver, and thus get full lossless PCM or bitstream audio instead of the lower quality choices you would be restricted to over S/PDIF. However I have not tried this.


That is very interesting about the iris. I can easily hear mine, sounds like a HDD accessing data, and it is not fast even though I have it on the fastest setting. There seems to be significant lag when transitioning from dark to light or vice versa. Unfortunately, there are no units on display that I can find in the San Jose, CA area to compare. Maybe I happened to get one that needs some work. 

I did hook up separate HDMI feeds for video and audio on the Philips and get 4K and HDR when playing discs. Netflix does not provide 4K or HDR through the Philps player when hooked up to the 5040UB. Epson said it should work and asked that I check the configuration of the Philips player to insure 24P vs. 60P for 4K content. It is configured properly and still cannot access Netflix 4K.


----------



## canillo

Don Giberson said:


> Josuah said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have almost full vertical shift. No problems at all.
> 
> 
> 
> The only settings I changed under Digital Cinema are the RGB offset and gain values. The remainder were left untouched.
> 
> Offset R: 52
> Offset G: 51
> Offset B: 52
> Gain R: 66
> Gain G: 51
> Gain B: 49
> 
> 
> 
> Iris transition is only noticeable to me when going from completely dark to light, or vice versa. It takes a fraction of a second to catch up. And it is completely silent. I am coming from the Epson 6500UB which was slower to respond and audible.
> 
> Edge ringing can be disabled by turning off the image enhancement settings. I have them set to off, even though preset 1 can make things look nicer.
> 
> The Philips BDP7501 actually has two HDMI outputs, so you can connect one via HDCP v2.2 to your display and a second to your processor or receiver, and thus get full lossless PCM or bitstream audio instead of the lower quality choices you would be restricted to over S/PDIF. However?I have not tried this.
> 
> 
> 
> That is very interesting about the iris. I can easily hear mine, sounds like a HDD accessing data, and it is not fast even though I have it on the fastest setting. There seems to be significant lag when transitioning from dark to light or vice versa. Unfortunately, there are no units on display that I can find in the San Jose, CA area to compare. Maybe I happened to get one that needs some work.
> 
> I did hook up separate HDMI feeds for video and audio on the Philips and get 4K and HDR when playing discs. Netflix does not provide 4K or HDR through the Philps player when hooked up to the 5040UB. Epson said it should work and asked that I check the configuration of the Philips player to insure 24P vs. 60P for 4K content. It is configured properly and still cannot access Netflix 4K.
Click to expand...

I have netflix 4k in my philips working just fine.you guys prop have something set up wrong. No HDR on netflix.


----------



## Viche

Kelvin1000 said:


> I have to do more testing but the Panasonic HDR seems to be playing nice with the Epson though I much prefer the HDR1 setting instead of the default HDR2.
> 
> HDR1 Bright Cinema:
> 
> 
> HDR1 Cinema:
> 
> 
> HDR2 Bright Cinema:
> 
> 
> SDR:
> 
> 
> Here is also the JVC X550R with the updated firmware and using the recommended JVC settings as a comparison:
> 
> 
> 
> With HDR engaged, the images on both projectors are very colorful but a bit more dim than I would like.
> 
> I think that many folks are right when they recommend the HD Fury which keeps the 2020 colors but without the dimming effects of HDR.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


One last question on the tiger images, why does the source for the 4th one read SDR 709, while the output reads HDR 2020. Why doesn't the output match the source?


----------



## terminal33

Don Giberson said:


> That is very interesting about the iris. I can easily hear mine, sounds like a HDD accessing data, and it is not fast even though I have it on the fastest setting. There seems to be significant lag when transitioning from dark to light or vice versa. Unfortunately, there are no units on display that I can find in the San Jose, CA area to compare. Maybe I happened to get one that needs some work.
> 
> I did hook up separate HDMI feeds for video and audio on the Philips and get 4K and HDR when playing discs. Netflix does not provide 4K or HDR through the Philps player when hooked up to the 5040UB. Epson said it should work and asked that I check the configuration of the Philips player to insure 24P vs. 60P for 4K content. It is configured properly and still cannot access Netflix 4K.





canillo said:


> I have netflix 4k in my philips working just fine.you guys prop have something set up wrong. No HDR on netflix.


I also have Netflix with the Philips player. The only thing I can think of is to make sure you have the Netflix plan that includes 4K streaming.


----------



## kevinlg

ndabunka said:


> I went from a HW50ES to this 5040ub


What were your thoughts on the upgrade?


----------



## Threefiddie

kevinlg said:


> What were your thoughts on the upgrade?


curious still as well as a hw50es owner


----------



## shepdog

terminal33 said:


> I also have Netflix with the Philips player. The only thing I can think of is to make sure you have the Netflix plan that includes 4K streaming.




I get Netflix 4K just not HDR


----------



## terminal33

shepdog said:


> I get Netflix 4K just not HDR


Hmm, I think when I had HDR1 on, the picture was too dark. But when I switched it to Auto or SDR, the picture looked great. So maybe Netflix can't utilize HDR?


----------



## Josuah

Don Giberson said:


> That is very interesting about the iris. I can easily hear mine, sounds like a HDD accessing data, and it is not fast even though I have it on the fastest setting. There seems to be significant lag when transitioning from dark to light or vice versa. Unfortunately, there are no units on display that I can find in the San Jose, CA area to compare. Maybe I happened to get one that needs some work.


Since you're listed as in Milpitas, and I'm listed as in San Jose, I can only guess this is a coy attempt at acquiring an invitation.  Yes, if you'd like to stop by and compare, please send me a PM and I'll provide my contact information.



ac388 said:


> Not too sure what to look for on Corner alignment. Is it to check if the horizontal n vertical line on that box well aligned ? Or is it to check if the box is square enough ? Or to see if all boxes are lining up to the edges to all 4 corners ?


You line up the RGB lines so they are properly overlapping and you get one line of white. Or the calibration color.



canillo said:


> I have netflix 4k in my philips working just fine.you guys prop have something set up wrong. No HDR on netflix.





terminal33 said:


> I also have Netflix with the Philips player. The only thing I can think of is to make sure you have the Netflix plan that includes 4K streaming.





terminal33 said:


> Hmm, I think when I had HDR1 on, the picture was too dark. But when I switched it to Auto or SDR, the picture looked great. So maybe Netflix can't utilize HDR?


Netflix only has a few HDR titles right now. Marco Polo is one. I am on the 4K plan, and I'm not sure what settings I would need to change on the player to get 4K working. If it is working, the badge on the movie display page would say UHD instead of just HD. I only see the badge say HD, and the Epson information showing BT.709 SDR. I'll try to play around with it more.

EDIT: Turns out I was not on the Netflix 4S+UHD plan. 4K w/o HDR may have been possible with the Xbox One S. 4K w/HDR may have been possible with the NVIDIA Shield.


----------



## Kelvin1000

Viche said:


> One last question on the tiger images, why does the source for the 4th one read SDR 709, while the output reads HDR 2020. Why doesn't the output match the source?




Top row tells you the source signal.
Bottom row tells you what the display is outputting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shepdog

Josuah said:


> Since you're listed as in Milpitas, and I'm listed as in San Jose, I can only guess this is a coy attempt at acquiring an invitation.  Yes, if you'd like to stop by and compare, please send me a PM and I'll provide my contact information.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You line up the RGB lines so they are properly overlapping and you get one line of white. Or the calibration color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Netflix only has a few HDR titles right now. Marco Polo is one. I am on the 4K plan, and I'm not sure what settings I would need to change on the player to get 4K working. If it is working, the badge on the movie display page would say UHD instead of just HD. I only see the badge say HD, and the Epson information showing BT.709 SDR. I'll try to play around with it more.




Netflix is broadcasting 4K but not HDR. No one has been able to get HDR on Netflix yet. 

A previous poster stated a firmware update might be coming soon. 

Having said that 'Strange Things' looks awesome.


----------



## jsil

If anyone in SF bay area has an Epson and wouldn't mine, demo it please let me know thanks.


----------



## Josuah

jsil said:


> If anyone in SF bay area has an Epson and wouldn't mine, demo it please let me know thanks.


Send me a PM.



shepdog said:


> Netflix is broadcasting 4K but not HDR. No one has been able to get HDR on Netflix yet.


From Netflix: Can I stream Netflix in HDR? Marco Polo is in HDR.


----------



## shepdog

Josuah said:


> Send me a PM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From Netflix: Can I stream Netflix in HDR? Marco Polo is in HDR.




When I look on the Epson it says 709rec sdr. 

It's been a few days since I checked so maybe it's been updated. 

I tried it on a Roku4 and FireTv with the same results.


----------



## Josuah

shepdog said:


> When I look on the Epson it says 709rec sdr.
> 
> It's been a few days since I checked so maybe it's been updated.
> 
> I tried it on a Roku4 and FireTv with the same results.


I was referring to the fact Netflix does indeed have UHD HDR content, not to whether or not you're getting it to play on your specific hardware setup.

I also cannot get Netflix to actually send UHD HDR to my Epson 5040UB. I tried with the Xbox One S, NVIDIA Shield, and Philips BDP7501 and they were all HD SDR. I was considering trying the Roku 4 and Fire TV but if you had no luck I guess I won't bother. I also tried Amazon on the Xbox One S without success.

EDIT: Turns out I was not on the Netflix 4S+UHD plan. 4K w/o HDR may have been possible with the Xbox One S. 4K w/HDR may have been possible with the NVIDIA Shield.


----------



## shepdog

Josuah said:


> I was referring to the fact Netflix does indeed have UHD HDR content, not to whether or not you're getting it to play on your specific hardware setup.
> 
> 
> 
> I also cannot get Netflix to actually send UHD HDR to my Epson 5040UB. I tried with the Xbox One S, NVIDIA Shield, and Philips BDP7501 and they were all HD SDR. I was considering trying the Roku 4 and Fire TV but if you had no luck I guess I won't bother. I also tried Amazon on the Xbox One S without success.




They have the content and they advertise it but I don't think anyone is getting it. 

I called support and he did not have a answer

It's very frustrating. Everyone(I'm talking about companies selling the product)seem to give a different answer.


----------



## Josuah

shepdog said:


> They have the content and they advertise it but I don't think anyone is getting it.


You will be able to get BT.2020 HDR Netflix on other devices. It just doesn't seem to be working with this particular projector and the hardware combinations I (and you) are trying.


----------



## kingwiggi

Josuah said:


> I was referring to the fact Netflix does indeed have UHD HDR content, not to whether or not you're getting it to play on your specific hardware setup.
> 
> I also cannot get Netflix to actually send UHD HDR to my Epson 5040UB. I tried with the Xbox One S, NVIDIA Shield, and Philips BDP7501 and they were all HD SDR. I was considering trying the Roku 4 and Fire TV but if you had no luck I guess I won't bother. I also tried Amazon on the Xbox One S without success.


FYI

Someone over on the UK avforum managed to do Netflix HDR using an HDFury linker


----------



## Josuah

kingwiggi said:


> Someone over on the UK avforum managed to do Netflix HDR using an HDFury linker


Thank you. I was investigating an HD Fury and this makes its case even stronger.


----------



## flyinmunky99

Can someone post a list/Link of all the supported Hz @ colour bits/colour formats/HDR etc....

Id like to try make a list of whats best possible for certain devices.


----------



## Viche

Kelvin1000 said:


> Top row tells you the source signal.
> Bottom row tells you what the display is outputting.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wonder what it's doing when it scales 10 bit 4:2:0 to 12 bit 4:2:2


----------



## Viche

Josuah said:


> Thank you. I was investigating an HD Fury and this makes its case even stronger.


Which HD Fury model is everyone using?


----------



## Craig Peer

Viche said:


> Which HD Fury model is everyone using?


The Integral.


----------



## canillo

Craig Peer said:


> Viche said:
> 
> 
> 
> Which HD Fury model is everyone using?
> 
> 
> 
> The Integral.
Click to expand...




Viche said:


> Josuah said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. I was investigating an HD Fury and this makes its case even stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> Which HD Fury model is everyone using?
Click to expand...

funny I asked this question a day ago and no one answered me.


----------



## doogue

*Best Calibration for 5040/6040*

Hello Fellow Epson Owners - 

I've notice a few folks post their favorite calibration numbers and wondering if others have found settings that they really love??

Show us your specs!

ps - I love my 5040!

:laugh:


----------



## canillo

so here it is.... 4k HDR does look sharper but not better colors than 1080p upsclaed content 709. i went back and foward between images and as you can see the hdr content look little washed out and dim. Regular upscaled content SDR 12bit 4.4.4 looks much vibrant. Now this makes me wonder what is the reason of HDR. Anyone thinks that using the HD fury to get t2020 colors 12bit 4.2.2 no HDR will surpase getting 709 12bit 4.4.4? 

here are the pics...top pics 4k 24p HDR 1 t2020

bottom pic 1080p 60p 709 12 bit 4.4.4 upscaled to 4k by projector. Darbee used in this set up.(no impact in colors it did create some depth).

Samsung phone does add a bit of color saturation to the pics


----------



## canillo

PioManiac said:


> There's actually a dedicated thread on AVS for the HDFury,
> ...for future reference if/when you have any questions... http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2171745-hdfury-integral.html
> 
> If buying through https://www.hdfury.com/
> the coupon code for 10% off is *HDfury*


I also posed there no one answered.


----------



## gnolivos

I just now bought the Lucy UhD 4K to test. I'll see if I come to the same conclusions as the above poster tonite.


----------



## k3nnis

Canillo: which HDR mode did you use? HDR 1 or 2? And bright cinema or just cinema?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

k3nnis said:


> Canillo: which HDR mode did you use? HDR 1 or 2? And bright cinema or just cinema?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




This is a crucial piece of information. I want to know too.


----------



## Kelvin1000

Does the HDFury processing cause any additional lag?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Craig Peer

canillo said:


> *funny I asked this question a day ago and no one answered me*.


Sorry - I've been trying to catch up from being at Cedia for three days !


----------



## Josuah

Kelvin1000 said:


> Does the HDFury processing cause any additional lag?


There is some processing time but it would apply to both audio and video.


----------



## Kelvin1000

But does anyone know how many MS of lag it would add for gaming purposes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

NeO_Sk8eR said:


> could you do some more w1070 comparisons?


Directv. 
All lights on. 
Epson-Natural mode-image enhancement 5.

BenQ W1070 









Epson 









Now with low lighting. 

BenQ W1070 









Epson-Bright Cinema-Image Enhancement 5









I can post more later tonight if you want. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Threefiddie

could have picked something else to take a pic of rather than cnn... lol

definitely a difference.


----------



## terminal33

Threefiddie said:


> could have picked something else to take a pic of rather than cnn... lol
> 
> definitely a difference.


Haha. I was in a rush and he happened to be on. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

So what are your conclusions with those pictures? Epson much sharper?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

k3nnis said:


> So what are your conclusions with those pictures? Epson much sharper?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Epson is definitely sharper, although the BenQ isn't bad in a dark room. The Epson is also brighter and that's a big deal for us because we can have medium lighting on and the Epson still throws an impressive image, whereas the BenQ fades quickly. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

terminal33 said:


> Epson is definitely sharper, although the BenQ isn't bad in a dark room. The Epson is also brighter and that's a big deal for us because we can have medium lighting on and the Epson still throws an impressive image, whereas the BenQ fades quickly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk




Ok thanks. Yes my room is not completely dark so Epson may be the better choice.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

Any update on that 10.2Gbps HDMI chipset vs 18Gbps debacle from Epson?


----------



## k3nnis

aaranddeeman said:


> Any update on that 10.2Gbps HDMI chipset vs 18Gbps debacle from Epson?




Would like to know this too. Any news from cedia?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## thrang

aaranddeeman said:


> Any update on that 10.2Gbps HDMI chipset vs 18Gbps debacle from Epson?


What's the 'debacle'?


----------



## gnolivos

Ok I did my testing with Lucy on the philips 4K player. I agree with canillo. 

I tested full 4K disc with HDR1 mode in Brilliant Cinema, low lamp. This was the best possible setting/image I could obtain for the UHD disc. (First pic)

Next I tested the Bluray 1080 with SDR of course, in both Cinema medium lamp (second pic) and brilliant cinema low lamp (3rd pic). 

Forget the images for one sec. My personal opinion was without a doubt that 1080p bluray sdr upscaled produced the most vibrant pleasing image. I barely see any difference in sharpness vs the 4K disc, and overall the colors and pop are better. 

So much so that I am watching the movie tonight on bluray. 

This projector is a fantastic machine for bluray discs. I am not convinced it is the best option for 4K UHD disc viewing, but that is not a problem for me at all.


----------



## hoogs

Pretty huge difference really. Look at the earpiece Anderson is wearing. On the w1070 you can barely see it, on the 5040ub it is clear as day.


----------



## Dws6

canillo said:


> so here it is.... 4k HDR does look sharper but not better colors than 1080p upsclaed content 709. i went back and foward between images and as you can see the hdr content look little washed out and dim. Regular upscaled content SDR 12bit 4.4.4 looks much vibrant. Now this makes me wonder what is the reason of HDR. Anyone thinks that using the HD fury to get t2020 colors 12bit 4.2.2 no HDR will surpase getting 709 12bit 4.4.4?
> 
> here are the pics...top pics 4k 24p HDR 1 t2020
> 
> bottom pic 1080p 60p 709 12 bit 4.4.4 upscaled to 4k by projector. Darbee used in this set up.(no impact in colors it did create some depth).
> 
> Samsung phone does add a bit of color saturation to the pics




I like the colors on the top images much better personally. The skin tones look more natural to me. 

Has anyone picked up the 6040 yet? I only keep seeing the 5040 mentioned here. I have seen the statements somewhere saying the 6040 hold presets for the video settings which if I remember correctly was an issue stated much earlier in this thread correct? Just wondering if the ISF certified unit (6040) received some different programming for the memory presets.


----------



## canillo

k3nnis said:


> Canillo: which HDR mode did you use? HDR 1 or 2? And bright cinema or just cinema?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


hdr 1 bright cinema mode..even ckanked the colors a bit to see if it could match ...but its a no no


----------



## canillo

Dws6 said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> so here it is.... 4k HDR does look sharper but not better colors than 1080p upsclaed content 709. i went back and foward between images and as you can see the hdr content look little washed out and dim. Regular upscaled content SDR 12bit 4.4.4 looks much vibrant. Now this makes me wonder what is the reason of HDR. Anyone thinks that using the HD fury to get t2020 colors 12bit 4.2.2 no HDR will surpase getting 709 12bit 4.4.4?
> 
> here are the pics...top pics 4k 24p HDR 1 t2020
> 
> bottom pic 1080p 60p 709 12 bit 4.4.4 upscaled to 4k by projector. Darbee used in this set up.(no impact in colors it did create some depth).
> 
> Samsung phone does add a bit of color saturation to the pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the colors on the top images much better personally. The skin tones look more natural to me.
> 
> Has anyone picked up the 6040 yet? I only keep seeing the 5040 mentioned here. I have seen the statements somewhere saying the 6040 hold presets for the video settings which if I remember correctly was an issue stated much earlier in this thread correct? Just wondering if the ISF certified unit (6040) received some different programming for the memory presets.
Click to expand...

I think my samsung phone made the colors less natural on the SDR content.In person they are bit more "relaxed". In person the 4k content looks sharper but not vibrant. I am determined to give this projector a chance...so I went and contacted HD FURY directly...after exchanging some i formation I am goin to order the box and take the HDR option off and send 12bit 4.2.2 t2020 and I bet I will have a killer image, native 4k, 12 bit t2020 colors and NO HDR dimness.


----------



## gnolivos

canillo said:


> I think my samsung phone made the colors less natural on the SDR content.In person they are bit more "relaxed". In person the 4k content looks sharper but not vibrant. I am determined to give this projector a chance...so I went and contacted HD FURY directly...after exchanging some i formation I am goin to order the box and take the HDR option off and send 12bit 4.2.2 t2020 and I bet I will have a killer image, native 4k, 12 bit t2020 colors and NO HDR dimness.




I would bet you would get something so similar to the upscaled SDR bluray that you would regret the investment. But please report back. I'm interested.


----------



## terminal33

hoogs said:


> Pretty huge difference really. Look at the earpiece Anderson is wearing. On the w1070 you can barely see it, on the 5040ub it is clear as day.


Good observation. I didn't even notice that.



canillo said:


> hdr 1 bright cinema mode..even ckanked the colors a bit to see if it could match ...but its a no no


Have you tried Natural mode in any of your testings? I prefer Natural mode over Bright Cinema with just about every source I send to the Epson.


----------



## Don Giberson

Josuah said:


> Since you're listed as in Milpitas, and I'm listed as in San Jose, I can only guess this is a coy attempt at acquiring an invitation.  Yes, if you'd like to stop by and compare, please send me a PM and I'll provide my contact information.
> 
> 
> 
> You line up the RGB lines so they are properly overlapping and you get one line of white. Or the calibration color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Netflix only has a few HDR titles right now. Marco Polo is one. I am on the 4K plan, and I'm not sure what settings I would need to change on the player to get 4K working. If it is working, the badge on the movie display page would say UHD instead of just HD. I only see the badge say HD, and the Epson information showing BT.709 SDR. I'll try to play around with it more.


Thank you for the invitation. I hate to impose on end users and was not looking for an invite. However, I may take you up on your offer. Thank you!


----------



## canillo

So did a few test. Netflix from the 1080p player vs the nexflix on the 4k player. 

1080p provides 
1080p 60p 12bit 4.4.4. 709 SDR

4k player provides
4k 60p 8bit 4.2 0 709 SDR

same as movies...4k and 60p is sharper but is a big drop in color 

Honestly did not see a diference in the images...


make your judment.. 
top 4k
bottom 1080p


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

terminal33 said:


> Directv.
> 
> I can post more later tonight if you want.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Wow that is quite the difference, if you have the time more would be great but obviously I don't want to be a pain, I'm around 85% convinced


----------



## rupedogg24

gnolivos said:


> Ok I did my testing with Lucy on the philips 4K player. I agree with canillo.
> 
> I tested full 4K disc with HDR1 mode in Brilliant Cinema, low lamp. This was the best possible setting/image I could obtain for the UHD disc. (First pic)
> 
> Next I tested the Bluray 1080 with SDR of course, in both Cinema medium lamp (second pic) and brilliant cinema low lamp (3rd pic).
> 
> Forget the images for one sec. My personal opinion was without a doubt that 1080p bluray sdr upscaled produced the most vibrant pleasing image. I barely see any difference in sharpness vs the 4K disc, and overall the colors and pop are better.
> 
> So much so that I am watching the movie tonight on bluray.
> 
> This projector is a fantastic machine for bluray discs. I am not convinced it is the best option for 4K UHD disc viewing, but that is not a problem



I have the Philips UHD player. My video settings are the following: 

HDMI Resolution - Auto
4k60P Output - 4k/60p (4.4.4)

The picture is very sharp and colors are vibrant. Colors don't look as good if I set the output to 4k/60p (4.2.2).


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

rupedogg24 said:


> I have the Philips UHD player. My video settings are the following:
> 
> HDMI Resolution - Auto
> 4k60P Output - 4k/60p (4.4.4)
> 
> The picture is very sharp and colors are vibrant. Colors don't look as good if I set the output to 4k/60p (4.2.2).
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk




For me it didn't matter what subsampling setting was used on the philips player. I had it set for 4:4:4 for this screenshot:


----------



## hoogs

So I picked this up from Best Buy last night and wow it is a very nice upgrade over the W1070. Everything is brighter and sharper which is awesome. I have to mess around with the PC settings because I don't think it looked as good as the W1070 text wise (It might be the enhancement getting in the way). I wish you could set the enhancement per input somehow.

Question though, only on white screens I see a red blob in the upper part of the screen that is probably the size of a baseball. Could that be a dust blob? Is there anything I can do? Or should I just return it for another one?

And secondly, I have a new AVR that can upscale to 4k. Should I turn that on or just let the projector do the work? Thanks!


----------



## aaranddeeman

hoogs said:


> Question though, only on white screens I see a red blob in the upper part of the screen that is probably the size of a baseball. Could that be a dust blob? Is there anything I can do? Or should I just return it for another one?


Dust blob it is..
Exchange is the right step.


----------



## gnolivos

hoogs said:


> Question though, only on white screens I see a red blob in the upper part of the screen that is probably the size of a baseball. Could that be a dust blob? Is there anything I can do? Or should I just return it for another one?
> 
> And secondly, I have a new AVR that can upscale to 4k. Should I turn that on or just let the projector do the work? Thanks!




Go to the settings menus and look for the grayscale balance setting adjustment. Not sure what it's called. It's where the panel alignment is located. It may help remove the redness on that one area.

As for the 4K upscale, I let the projector do it so that I can still use the frame interpolation feature should I ever need it. Can't do if you feed 4K from the AVR.


----------



## shepdog

canillo said:


> So did a few test. Netflix from the 1080p player vs the nexflix on the 4k player.
> 
> 1080p provides
> 1080p 60p 12bit 4.4.4. 709 SDR
> 
> 4k player provides
> 4k 60p 8bit 4.2 0 709 SDR
> 
> same as movies...4k and 60p is sharper but is a big drop in color
> 
> Honestly did not see a diference in the images...
> 
> 
> make your judment..
> top 4k
> bottom 1080p




Just quickly glancing i preferred the bottom with reading to see which was which


----------



## doogue

terminal33 said:


> Directv.
> All lights on.
> Epson-Natural mode-image enhancement 5.
> 
> BenQ W1070
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with low lighting.
> 
> BenQ W1070
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson-Bright Cinema-Image Enhancement 5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can post more later tonight if you want.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


You say "now with low lighting".... I believe that's a setting, but I'm not sure where - can you point me to that?


----------



## PioManiac

doogue said:


> You say "now with low lighting".... I believe that's a setting, but I'm not sure where - can you point me to that?


----------



## gnolivos

PioManiac said:


>




Hahahahaahahahahahahahagaga!!!!!!


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

PioManiac said:


>


Made me let out a big HA at work


----------



## hoogs

gnolivos said:


> Go to the settings menus and look for the grayscale balance setting adjustment. Not sure what it's called. It's where the panel alignment is located. It may help remove the redness on that one area.
> 
> As for the 4K upscale, I let the projector do it so that I can still use the frame interpolation feature should I ever need it. Can't do if you feed 4K from the AVR.


Will do, thanks!


----------



## terminal33

doogue said:


> You say "now with low lighting".... I believe that's a setting, but I'm not sure where - can you point me to that?


I mean the room had minimal lighting in it.


----------



## Jasinto

> I have to mess around with the PC settings because I don't think it looked as good as the W1070 text wise (It might be the enhancement getting in the way)


How can be , if the text is best defined in the benq 1070 all the sharpness in the epson is digital added , not real.

if the dust shadow can be deleted or minimized by the gnolivos method will be a very good news


Saludos


----------



## rupedogg24

gnolivos said:


> Go to the settings menus and look for the grayscale balance setting adjustment. Not sure what it's called. It's where the panel alignment is located. It may help remove the redness on that one area.
> 
> As for the 4K upscale, I let the projector do it so that I can still use the frame interpolation feature should I ever need it. Can't do if you feed 4K from the AVR.


I'll say this. I have the new onkyo RZ1100 and have it upscaling 1080p cable broadcast to 4k at the highest level. Along with the Epson eshift it creates a ridiculously good looking picture. Better than if I turned it off on the AVR. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

*4k vs 1080p eshift*

Ok I have more news to share regarding 4K vs 1080/eshift via the Philips UHD 4K player. 

First of all, there is no denying that true 4K UHD source does have more detail. But realistically it is MINIMAL on this projector. The upscale eshift faux-k is almost as good as true 4K. 

Here is some proof: 
(Pictures taken a few inches away from screen)
Notice the second picture (4K) has more detail on the shirt patterns than the first (1080 eshift). But such minimal difference that at a sitting distance you cannot tell at all.
Another example, now look at the text on the 'presentation'. First is 1080 eshift, second is 4K.


----------



## gnolivos

*HDR vs SDR*

OK, now onto HDR..

Last night I realized the Philips player has the option to disable HDR for 4k UHD discs. So it passes on a 709 SDR signal according to Epson info screen. In this case, you can use Epson's SDR mode and entirely bypass HDR 'issues' while feeding true 4K. the results are slightly better than the rather dull HDR processing that some of us are seeing.... but still NOT as good as basic SDR signal from Bluray Disc.

Here is some proof:
(Pictures taken a few inches away from screen)
First is Bluray SDR eshift. To me this looks the best.
Next is 4k UHD with HDR turned off at player (SDR passed to Epson) This look somewhat flat to me.
Last is 4k UHD with HDR turned on at player (HDR passed on to Epson, set to HDR1 on Projector). Even flatter to my eyes.
*
So, all things considered, my conclusion is that it is best to stick with 1080p Bluray SDR and eShift on this projector. It just looks better, pops more, and the loss of detail is negligible to the eye. Splitting hairs...*


----------



## doogue

terminal33 said:


> I mean the room had minimal lighting in it.


Gotcha - thanks!


----------



## doogue

I mean the room had minimal lighting in it.[/QUOTE]
Gotcha - thanks!


----------



## utkinpol

gnolivos said:


> First is Bluray SDR eshift. To me this looks the best.
> Next is 4k UHD with HDR turned off at player (SDR passed to Epson) This look somewhat flat to me.
> Last is 4k UHD with HDR turned on at player (HDR passed on to Epson, set to HDR1 on Projector). Even flatter to my eyes.
> *
> So, all things considered, my conclusion is that it is best to stick with 1080p Bluray SDR and eShift on this projector. It just looks better, pops more, and the loss of detail is negligible to the eye. Splitting hairs...*


It just cannot be right. I just played at my in-laws with their new Samsung 4K TV that also uses HDR, feeding from ubd-k8500. Results were opposite from those you see here. HDR should not degrade overall dynamic rage of the image like that, this whole thing seems to be a mess and just seems to be plain wrong. We played a BD in the HDR and image was visually better, an effect was quite visible and it was not negative at all.


----------



## gnolivos

utkinpol said:


> It just cannot be right. I just played at my in-laws with their new Samsung 4K TV that also uses HDR, feeding from ubd-k8500. Results were opposite from those you see here. HDR should not degrade overall dynamic rage of the image like that, this whole thing seems to be a mess and just seems to be plain wrong. We played a BD in the HDR and image was visually better, an effect was quite visible and it was not negative at all.




I'm not disagreeing with you. I think the Epson 5040 needs work on the HDR processing. Maybe a firmware update will fix this in the future. One can only hope. 

I've seen HDR on top of the line TVs, and it is absolutely terrific


----------



## gnolivos

All I can say is I watched Lucy in Bluray with eShift Cinema Mode, and I was absolutely blown away by the picture quality. I couldn't be happier.


----------



## utkinpol

PioManiac said:


> I don't have my HDFury yet, just placed my order yesterday afternoon,
> tracking says it will arrive from Taiwan before the end of the day tomorrow


Good luck with your hacking. 

I am going to spend money this year on the living room upgrade to get ks9500 as it just works, with no issues, as it seems, and does not require any odd gizmos. 
Projectors are simply not there yet.


----------



## canillo

gnolivos said:


> utkinpol said:
> 
> 
> 
> It just cannot be right. I just played at my in-laws with their new Samsung 4K TV that also uses HDR, feeding from ubd-k8500. Results were opposite from those you see here. HDR should not degrade overall dynamic rage of the image like that, this whole thing seems to be a mess and just seems to be plain wrong. We played a BD in the HDR and image was visually better, an effect was quite visible and it was not negative at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not disagreeing with you. I think the Epson 5040 needs work on the HDR processing. Maybe a firmware update will fix this in the future. One can only hope.
> 
> I've seen HDR on top of the line TVs, and it is absolutely terrific
Click to expand...

so here is the problem...HDR is meant to be used with really bright equipment that can produce around 1000 nits, TV can produce the amount of nits to take advantage of this. Projectors at this price range just dont. specially this epson that does not support the 12bit 4.4.4 colors that would work in partnership with HDR. I think that they add hdr to these projector mainly to make it compatible with the content not to make it look better..sad but truth.


----------



## shepdog

PioManiac said:


> HDR only looks great on some TV's currently,
> 
> it's not so good on projectors due to the light output requirements.
> 
> ..and cranking the brightness up tends to raise black levels to grey.
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with removing HDR (in the player or projector) is you also lose the Wide Color Gamut and BT.2020
> 
> All you're gaining back by going to Rec.709 is the brightness is restored to regular Bluray levels.
> 
> 
> 
> That's why so many in the "other" brand e-shift projector threads,
> 
> have opted for an HDFury Intergral to maintain 4K, BT.2020,
> 
> restored brightness levels and benefit from Wide Color Gamut with full bit depth from 4K/UHD discs.
> 
> 
> 
> Its a small price to pay, $224 delivered (after discount code).
> 
> 
> 
> Sure you could just give up buying 4K Blurays, but in many cases you're also giving up Atmos/DTS:X audio
> 
> for the studios who refuse to put the higher end audio tracks on their regular Blurays.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have my HDFury yet, just placed my order yesterday afternoon,
> 
> tracking says it will arrive from Taiwan before the end of the day tomorrow




My question is will this be any different than just using sdr709?

If you strip out the HDR isn't it now just reverted back to sdr with exaggerated colors? 

Trying understand how the fury works


----------



## Kelvin1000

PioManiac said:


> HDR only looks great on some TV's currently,
> 
> it's not so good on projectors due to the light output requirements.
> 
> ..and cranking the brightness up tends to raise black levels to grey.
> 
> 
> 
> The problem with removing HDR (in the player or projector) is you also lose the Wide Color Gamut and BT.2020
> 
> All you're gaining back by going to Rec.709 is the brightness is restored to regular Bluray levels.
> 
> 
> 
> That's why so many in the "other" brand e-shift projector threads,
> 
> have opted for an HDFury Intergral to maintain 4K, BT.2020,
> 
> restored brightness levels and benefit from Wide Color Gamut with full bit depth from 4K/UHD discs.
> 
> 
> 
> Its a small price to pay, $224 delivered (after discount code).
> 
> 
> 
> Sure you could just give up buying 4K Blurays, but in many cases you're also giving up Atmos/DTS:X audio
> 
> for the studios who refuse to put the higher end audio tracks on their regular Blurays.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have my HDFury yet, just placed my order yesterday afternoon,
> 
> tracking says it will arrive from Taiwan before the end of the day tomorrow




PioManiac,

Do you know if the HDFury processing increases lag for gaming?

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

So what exactly are we losing by using the Fury? Something is being stripped, but what does it translate to visually?


----------



## socal swagger

How well does the UBE version work? is there any drop in signal, how good or bad is it.


----------



## terminal33

gnolivos said:


> OK, now onto HDR..
> 
> Last night I realized the Philips player has the option to disable HDR for 4k UHD discs. So it passes on a 709 SDR signal according to Epson info screen. In this case, you can use Epson's SDR mode and entirely bypass HDR 'issues' while feeding true 4K. the results are slightly better than the rather dull HDR processing that some of us are seeing.... but still NOT as good as basic SDR signal from Bluray Disc.
> 
> Here is some proof:
> (Pictures taken a few inches away from screen)
> First is Bluray SDR eshift. To me this looks the best.
> Next is 4k UHD with HDR turned off at player (SDR passed to Epson) This look somewhat flat to me.
> Last is 4k UHD with HDR turned on at player (HDR passed on to Epson, set to HDR1 on Projector). Even flatter to my eyes.
> *
> So, all things considered, my conclusion is that it is best to stick with 1080p Bluray SDR and eShift on this projector. It just looks better, pops more, and the loss of detail is negligible to the eye. Splitting hairs...*


Hmm, I'll have to check this out on my Philips player tonight. I'm debating whether or not to keep the Philips. The only 4k BD I have is The Revenant so I'll do some comparisons with HDR on and off. 

On another note, 4k Netflix looks pretty good on SDR. Can I only stream 4k with the Philips? Or will my 4 year old Panasonic player work as well? 

Marco Polo-Natural-Image Enhancement 5.



















Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

PioManiac said:


> HDR only looks great on some TV's currently,
> it's not so good on projectors due to the light output requirements.
> ..and cranking the brightness up tends to raise black levels to grey.
> 
> The problem with removing HDR (in the player or projector) is you also lose the Wide Color Gamut and BT.2020
> All you're gaining back by going to Rec.709 is the brightness is restored to regular Bluray levels.
> 
> That's why so many in the "other" brand e-shift projector threads,
> have opted for an HDFury Intergral to maintain 4K, BT.2020,
> restored brightness levels and benefit from Wide Color Gamut with full bit depth from 4K/UHD discs.
> 
> I don't have my HDFury yet, just placed my order yesterday afternoon,
> tracking says it will arrive from Taiwan before the end of the day tomorrow


I thought you were very happy with the HDR quality of your "Brand X" projector?...Lol...gives me no hope for the satisfactory results of HDR processing of either camp....


----------



## Kelvin1000

Great info as always.
So would you say that the Panasonic set to SDR conversion Rec.709 is inferior to the Panasonic set to HDR with HDFury removing HDR while keeping BT.2020?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shepdog

Ronman79 said:


> I thought you were very happy with the HDR quality of your "Brand X" projector?...Lol...gives me no hope for the satisfactory results of HDR processing of either camp....




If hdfury does what I think he's saying it does, it will help everyone. 

No projector currently out that I can find is going to be bright enough.


----------



## Kelvin1000

Ronman79 said:


> I thought you were very happy with the HDR quality of your "Brand X" projector?...Lol...gives me no hope for the satisfactory results of HDR processing of either camp....



I myself prefer the 4K SDR conversion to the HDR because these projectors (although very bright) don't have enough lumens to display HDR properly, especially if there is any sort of ambient light present.

Now I'm just trying to figure out if using the HDFury BT.2020 workaround is even better...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

Please report your findings ASAP as I also have $224 itching my pockets!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

I see...curious here...


----------



## gnolivos

So basically Epson could add 3 lines of code and bypass the HDR flag. And they choose not to?

There has to be more to the Fury than a flag switch, or the $200+ price tag is an absolute scandal.


----------



## Ronman79

*SECRETS OF HOME THEATER & HIFI REVIEW*......http://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/...epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-lcd-projector-review/

You're welcome....again!

ronman79


----------



## gnolivos

Sorry I posted that before going to the Fury info page and realized all it does.


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

Ronman79 said:


> *SECRETS OF HOME THEATER & HIFI REVIEW*......http://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/...epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-lcd-projector-review/
> 
> You're welcome....again!
> 
> ronman79


Raves about the HDR capability


----------



## gnolivos

NeO_Sk8eR said:


> Raves about the HDR capability



Is blind!


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

gnolivos said:


> Is blind!


I'm considering buying this, could you just let me have the hope?


----------



## Ronman79

I can only hope, and imagine, that with all the flux in the HDR market, there will be some adjustment period for early adopting display devices like this (and flat panels also). There will be additional tweaking and adjusting to get a quality outcome from projectors which do not output sufficient light as LED tvs do...I think firmware updates, different user menu configurations, etc, will be used to improve things....That's my .02!


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> Is blind!


All the professional reviewers have been mostly positive about HDR on the 5040 while so many here struggle. It makes one wonder. The adjustable HDR mode setting combined with incompatible UHD players is causing undue confusion on the part of many -- my guess. If it doesn't "just work" then most people consider it to be broken.


----------



## royboy365

Has anyone else noticed the high pitched sound when 4K Enhancement is engaged? 

I'm wondering if this is normal or if something is wrong with mine.

Thanks!


----------



## hoogs

So two things:

1. It's definitely a dust blob on this brand new out of the box projector  And of course Best Buy only had one in stock.
2. The PC Text is wayyyy sharper if you use the native 4k res. I just have to use the Zoom in Windows which works OK. I was using 1080p just because of the size and it looks like crap lol.


----------



## aaranddeeman

hoogs said:


> So two things:
> 
> 1. It's definitely a dust blob on this brand new out of the box projector  And of course Best Buy only had one in stock.
> 2. The PC Text is wayyyy sharper if you use the native 4k res. I just have to use the Zoom in Windows which works OK. I was using 1080p just because of the size and it looks like crap lol.


Yup, but BB should order one for you. It's not hard.
You will be w/o PJ for few days. That's all about it.


----------



## gnolivos

royboy365 said:


> Has anyone else noticed the high pitched sound when 4K Enhancement is engaged?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if this is normal or if something is wrong with mine.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




Do you mean the mechanical sound that occurs for a few seconds when you initially engage, or do you mean a sound that remains on?


----------



## hoogs

I don't hear any high pitch sounds but I do here the hard drive type sounds that were mentioned earlier in this thread, it's not super loud though.


----------



## canillo

Ronman79 said:


> *SECRETS OF HOME THEATER & HIFI REVIEW*......http://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/...epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-lcd-projector-review/
> 
> You're welcome....again!
> 
> ronman79


HDR mode 0?? where did he find that??I only see 1 to 4


----------



## Ronman79

canillo said:


> HDR mode 0?? where did he find that??I only see 1 to 4


Yeah, surely it's not a difference from 5040 to 6040. I did notice him saying, going from 1 to 0. Sounds like I've heard users going from 2 to 1....either way, he mentions it again... Wondering... 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

Anyone here with a 6040 please confirm 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

PioManiac said:


> ..and don't forget to post pictures of your room so k3nnis can finally chose a projector.


Me too... Lol

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## BamaDave

I have a 142" screen and my primary seat is just over 13' back. Can someone with a simmular setup give me some feedback on clearly? 

Thanks!


----------



## k3nnis

PioManiac said:


> ..and don't forget to post pictures of your room so k3nnis can finally chose a projector.




+1 to this 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cripsy666

hoogs said:


> I don't hear any high pitch sounds but I do here the hard drive type sounds that were mentioned earlier in this thread, it's not super loud though.



The hard drive sounds are from the Auto Iris, and not the 4K enhancement. Try turning off the Auto iris and see if the noise is still there. It has been an annoying issue with all of the Epson Projo's with the auto iris.


----------



## gnolivos

When you choose modes like Cinema, there is a filter that gets placed mechanically in the light path. You will hear a high pitch mechanism engaging to place the filter. Is that what you are referring to?


----------



## Adrienn

Hi
what the release date for 6040UB?


----------



## Dws6

I have a dealer telling me he can get me one in 7 days so I believe they are already released. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

gnolivos said:


> OK, now onto HDR..
> 
> Last night I realized the Philips player has the option to disable HDR for 4k UHD discs. So it passes on a 709 SDR signal according to Epson info screen. In this case, you can use Epson's SDR mode and entirely bypass HDR 'issues' while feeding true 4K. the results are slightly better than the rather dull HDR processing that some of us are seeing.... but still NOT as good as basic SDR signal from Bluray Disc.
> 
> Here is some proof:
> (Pictures taken a few inches away from screen)
> First is Bluray SDR eshift. To me this looks the best.
> Next is 4k UHD with HDR turned off at player (SDR passed to Epson) This look somewhat flat to me.
> Last is 4k UHD with HDR turned on at player (HDR passed on to Epson, set to HDR1 on Projector). Even flatter to my eyes.
> *
> So, all things considered, my conclusion is that it is best to stick with 1080p Bluray SDR and eShift on this projector. It just looks better, pops more, and the loss of detail is negligible to the eye. Splitting hairs...*


The fleshtones looke more natural to me on the second image (SDR 4k)



PioManiac said:


> HDR only looks great on some TV's currently,
> it's not so good on projectors due to the light output requirements.
> ..and cranking the brightness up tends to raise black levels to grey.
> 
> The problem with removing HDR (in the player or projector) is you also lose the Wide Color Gamut and BT.2020
> All you're gaining back by going to Rec.709 is the brightness is restored to regular Bluray levels.
> 
> That's why so many in the "other" brand e-shift projector threads,
> have opted for an HDFury Intergral to maintain 4K, BT.2020,
> restored brightness levels and benefit from Wide Color Gamut with full bit depth from 4K/UHD discs.
> 
> Its a small price to pay, $224 delivered (after discount code).
> 
> Sure you could just give up buying 4K Blurays, but in many cases you're also giving up Atmos/DTS:X audio
> for the studios who refuse to put the higher end audio tracks on their regular Blurays.
> 
> I don't have my HDFury yet, just placed my order yesterday afternoon,
> tracking says it will arrive from Taiwan before the end of the day tomorrow


Will you get 4:4:4 with this method on the epson or does preserving 2020 mean you'll only get 4:2:0?


----------



## Viche

Ronman79 said:


> *SECRETS OF HOME THEATER & HIFI REVIEW*......http://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/...epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-lcd-projector-review/
> 
> You're welcome....again!
> 
> ronman79


Posted this in the other thread, but thought I'd put it here as well:

A few interesting things about the review:

I'm assuming he made a mistake in saying that P3 is achieved in digital cinema mode.
"The best starting point for a Rec.709 calibration is Natural. Cinema and Bright Cinema pump up color a bit to help the projector compete with ambient light. You can also access the full DCI-P3 gamut by selecting Digital Cinema. Dynamic is where you’ll find the maximum output of over 130fL. And B&W Cinema is a great way to watch black-and-white movies with a vintage sepia tone."

Wouldn't setting HDR to mode 0 mean turning it off? Haven't heard anyone else mention mode 0.
"When I watched Creed, I found it much too dark until I changed it from HDR Mode 1 to Mode 0. This is a function which really should be added to the remote."

It's odd that he got good results with Creed and the Martian when so many people complain about those two titles on this projector using HDR 

He claims the lens memory function is super precise:
"Testing this with crosshatch patterns showed the motors to be very precise. Not only did they nail the lens position perfectly, the change took only a few seconds."

He says that e-shift "shrinks the visible pixel gap." For those of you who prefer 1080 P with frame interpolation, do you miss the visible pixel gap reduction? 

He was getting 30 FL in eco-mode with the manual Iris closed all the way down. Is it me or does that seem brighter than most people are reporting?


----------



## Viche

@PioManiac

Yes...definitely confused by all the numbers/features at this point. 

Didn't realize all 4K/UHD Blurays were 2160p24 BT.2020 4:2:0 10-bit.

So the supposed 10.2 Gbps limitation will only really affect computer/console usage. Wonder how obvious it will be for gaming graphics considering the fact that 4k blu rays looks so sharp on this projector.

So in layman's terms, assuming you don't need the splitting capability, what real world, noticeable benefits will you experience (other than what can be achieved by ignoring the HDR signal) using the fury on the Epson, while watching movies or playing games?


----------



## flyinmunky99

I had my 9300(5040) yesterday and I'm finding motion blur and to be a massive distraction. I have never had a DLP projector, my previous is a 5 year old Epson LCD so its not like I'm going from one tech to another.

Clarity/smoothness just seems to be worse compared to my old machine. The image is sharper and brighter but any motion and my eyes seem to be noticing blur and lack of detail. Watching Avatar and movement clarity just seems inconsistent. I have began the return process.


----------



## gnolivos

flyinmunky99 said:


> I had my 9300(5040) yesterday and I'm finding motion blur and to be a massive distraction. I have never had a DLP projector, my previous is a 5 year old Epson LCD so its not like I'm going from one tech to another.
> 
> 
> 
> Clarity/smoothness just seems to be worse compared to my old machine. The image is sharper and brighter but any motion and my eyes seem to be noticing blur and lack of detail. Watching Avatar and movement clarity just seems inconsistent. I have began the return process.




Can you explain further? I noticed something similar if the image was set too bright. In my case it was the effect of each bright frame burning on your retina and blending from one frame to the next. 

Check fast motion with less contrasting scenes, which have lower brightness. I bet you won't see an issue. 

Do you come from an dimmer projector?

Anyway, make sure you are around 18fL brightness. I lowered mine and it seems much better now.


----------



## BamaDave

Has anyone viewed DirecTV HD content? I'm concerned on the upscaling ability of unit! Need some additional input please? 


David


----------



## flyinmunky99

gnolivos said:


> Can you explain further? I noticed something similar if the image was set too bright. In my case it was the effect of each bright frame burning on your retina and blending from one frame to the next.
> 
> Check fast motion with less contrasting scenes, which have lower brightness. I bet you won't see an issue.
> 
> Do you come from an dimmer projector?
> 
> Anyway, make sure you are around 18fL brightness. I lowered mine and it seems much better now.


I have tried Natural mode and also bright cinema on Eco with iris set to -20., 4k enhancements on/off and frame int off/low etc

Hard to describe but soon as I started trying different films and games (fifa) I picked up on it and it ruins my enjoyment of film as I cant relax.
Feels like a combo of losing image detail due to motion blur and also inconsistent motion judder.


----------



## Jasinto

flyinmunky99 said:


> I had my 9300(5040) yesterday and I'm finding motion blur and to be a massive distraction. I have never had a DLP projector, my previous is a 5 year old Epson LCD so its not like I'm going from one tech to another.
> 
> Clarity/smoothness just seems to be worse compared to my old machine. The image is sharper and brighter but any motion and my eyes seem to be noticing blur and lack of detail. Watching Avatar and movement clarity just seems inconsistent. I have began the return process.


There is a lot of contradictions here , is not dlp projector , and clarity is a kind of synonyms to sharper and contradiction of lack of detail .



Saludos


----------



## gnolivos

Third time in a week - while switching between saved memory modes the projector crashes with a black screen. Disconnecting power is he only way out. 

Anyone else had this happen?


----------



## hoogs

I am really confused about these numbers too. If I send a 4k signal to the projector I get 4:2:0 I believe from my PC. So that is a limitation of the chipset? What am I losing exactly doing that? I guess as long as I get 60hz I am ok??


----------



## flyinmunky99

Jasinto said:


> There is a lot of contradictions here , is not dlp projector , and clarity is a kind of synonyms to sharper and contradiction of lack of detail .
> 
> 
> 
> Saludos


I'm just explaining poorly I feel. I'm coming from a Epson tw5500 (8500ub in US I think) which is a 5 year old LCD so I expected motion to be same or better. I have never had a DLP projector so I'm saying its not like I have had experience of DLP motion and switching to LCD has shocked me, all I have ever had is LCD. 

I use Avatar as a reference disc as I have seen it multiple times. Within a few minutes I could feel something was off and I feel in part of the image where there is movement I pick up on lack of clarity (blur) in that part , I know LCD is like this but it never was a big enough issue on my old projector to be a distraction. I went through every setting and lower brightness right down as recommended in thread but no luck. Maybe its just my eyes  but I do remember reading somewhere in this thread of a similar issue with someone having similar experience with the new civil war.


----------



## Jasinto

if you turn off motion interpolation have same feeling


Saludos


----------



## Viche

flyinmunky99 said:


> I'm just explaining poorly I feel. I'm coming from a Epson tw5500 (8500ub in US I think) which is a 5 year old LCD so I expected motion to be same or better. I have never had a DLP projector so I'm saying its not like I have had experience of DLP motion and switching to LCD has shocked me, all I have ever had is LCD.
> 
> I use Avatar as a reference disc as I have seen it multiple times. Within a few minutes I could feel something was off and I feel in part of the image where there is movement I pick up on lack of clarity (blur) in that part , I know LCD is like this but it never was a big enough issue on my old projector to be a distraction. I went through every setting and lower brightness right down as recommended in thread but no luck. Maybe its just my eyes  but I do remember reading somewhere in this thread of a similar issue with someone having similar experience with the new civil war.


Darn, I really hate motion blur. Does anyone know if the LCOS panels suffer less from this? And I don't wanna hear "my JXX has no motion blur at all!" type answers. I mean does anyone have an established ranking for how the various projector technology rank on a scale of motion blur?


----------



## c.kingsley

Viche said:


> Darn, I really hate motion blur. Does anyone know if the LCOS panels suffer less from this? And I don't wanna hear "my JXX has no motion blur at all!" type answers. I mean does anyone have an established ranking for how the various projector technology rank on a scale of motion blur?


I am not aware of a ranking but LCD and LCoS both suffer from motion blur and I've never heard any inference that one technology is better than the other in this regard. I owned the old SXRD RP sets and they also suffered from motion blur. DLP motion suffers from rainbows though, so to each his own. I'd rather see some loss of resolution during fast panning than have my display look like something from My Little Pony.


----------



## Viche

c.kingsley said:


> I am not aware of a ranking but LCD and LCoS both suffer from motion blur and I've never heard any inference that one technology is better than the other in this regard. I owned the old SXRD RP sets and they also suffered from motion blur. DLP motion suffers from rainbows though, so to each his own. I'd rather see some loss of resolution during fast panning than have my display look like something from My Little Pony.


Agreed. I see rainbows too. Strange that this epson has more motion blur than your old one though...Did you try frame interpolation on low?


----------



## c.kingsley

Viche said:


> Agreed. I see rainbows too. Strange that this epson has more motion blur than your old one though...Did you try frame interpolation on low?


I don't have an Epson. I'm still straddling the fence between 5040 and "the projector that shan't be named."

But I can tell you from first hand experience owning both technologies that motion blur / loss of resolution during motion occurs on both. There are always trade-offs. I think some old set reviews had a pattern they would use to quantify the loss of resolution. As to frame interpolation, I don't appreciate the uneasy feel of it, so I would never enable it.


----------



## flyinmunky99

Viche said:


> Agreed. I see rainbows too. Strange that this epson has more motion blur than your old one though...Did you try frame interpolation on low?


I tried it on each setting including off. I tried switching any enhancements off as well just incase something was being done to the image which was causing me react to the issue. I demo'd a sony 55es, although a while back, but I did not notice the same issue.

Maybe this is just where the tech is these days but I couldn't sit through a film and enjoy it as it distracted me enough to lose focus on the film, the fact within a few mins I picked up on it means I knew I couldn't live with it unless I could fix it but no luck.

Minus the above issue the 2D image itself was very good and even on Eco you could see it offered plenty of brightness. I'm still trying to find that post with guy who had same issue as me if I remember.


----------



## terminal33

flyinmunky99 said:


> I tried it on each setting including off. I tried switching any enhancements off as well just incase something was being done to the image which was causing me react to the issue. I demo'd a sony 55es, although a while back, but I did not notice the same issue.
> 
> Maybe this is just where the tech is these days but I couldn't sit through a film and enjoy it as it distracted me enough to lose focus on the film, the fact within a few mins I picked up on it means I knew I couldn't live with it unless I could fix it but no luck.
> 
> Minus the above issue the 2D image itself was very good and even on Eco you could see it offered plenty of brightness. I'm still trying to find that post with guy who had same issue as me if I remember.


Hmm, my only other suggestion would be to check any settings on your AVR? I had some picture issues with 4K BD's and Xbox One. But then I realized some settings in my AVR were affecting it since I now have this Epson and my old BenQ was only 1080p.


----------



## flyinmunky99

terminal33 said:


> Hmm, my only other suggestion would be to check any settings on your AVR? I had some picture issues with 4K BD's and Xbox One. But then I realized some settings in my AVR were affecting it since I now have this Epson and my old BenQ was only 1080p.


I go straight from PS4 to projector. I'm gutted as now I'm sort of in projector no mans land. Sold my old Epson so now without one. Cant go JVC as they have worse motion/input lag as I game. Anything below this Epson would be worse, anything above at decent cost is bad for gaming. :crying: Il have to demo a DLP but no doubt ill see rainbows etc.


----------



## terminal33

BamaDave said:


> Has anyone viewed DirecTV HD content? I'm concerned on the upscaling ability of unit! Need some additional input please?
> 
> 
> David


Below are a few pics I took the other night. Not sure if they help you, but I can take more if you want. I feel that for Directv, image enhancement 3 is best. Overall the 4K scaling is great for Directv, but not as impressive as Netflix 4K. 

Natural - image enhancement 1









Natural - image enhancement 3









Natural - image enhancement 5









Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## shepdog

flyinmunky99 said:


> I go straight from PS4 to projector. I'm gutted as now I'm sort of in projector no mans land. Sold my old Epson so now without one. Cant go JVC as they have worse motion/input lag as I game. Anything below this Epson would be worse, anything above at decent cost is bad for gaming. :crying: Il have to demo a DLP but no doubt ill see rainbows etc.




I found this from a earlier poster:





gnolivos said:


> OK, in hopes of calming everybody's concern, I did extensive research on this matter today and came to a conclusion. *
> There is nothing intrinsically wrong or different about the way the 5040 handles 24p content.*
> 
> I was wrong on a few points made initially, and so here is what I learned today:
> 
> -The overall motion is the same with 24p or 60hz forced on bluray (via Ps3 settings).
> -The overall motion is the same whether the Epson does the 4k upscaling, or my Yamaha AVR does the upscaling.
> -After capturing fast sequences with iPhone video on slow-mo (240fps?), I later reviewed each frame in slow-mo and there is absolutely no ghosting. Each frame is perfectly clean.
> -When watching with my bare eyes, on screen, yes I *do* most definitely 'see' a ghosting type of effect that bothers me.
> -It is more obvious on parts of the image with high contrast. Like a dark shirt/body moving very quickly on a white background... on the 'line' that separates them. And has to be FAST action.
> -Switching to my old projector, yes can I see the same 'problem' but MUCH more subtle. I had never noticed it before.
> 
> So, my conclusion/theory?
> I think because this projector is so much brighter and capable of such better contrast, I must be seeing the optical 'effect' of permanence (of bright parts of the image) on my retina from one frame to the next.So I am seeing one frame faded into the next... Which explains why I cannot see this problem as clearly on my old projector. Also on the Epson I played with the settings and brought the overall lumen down as much as possible to test the idea, and sure enough the 'problem' is subdued.
> 
> Anyway, I think this is just a matter of me getting used to the 'perceived motion' characteristics resulting from higher brightness and contrast. I guess most of you already coming from high brightness high contrast projectors would not notice any of this.
> 
> I'm sorry for any grief I may have caused. I hope this helps.
> 
> PS: By the way, watching my old projector was painful, just no contest anymore LOL. The difference is so dramatic.


----------



## flyinmunky99

Interesting, thanks for that. Maybe that's what I'm seeing. I cant risk thinking I will just get use to it though. I'm goin to have to demo some more models.


----------



## shepdog

flyinmunky99 said:


> Interesting, thanks for that. Maybe that's what I'm seeing. I cant risk thinking I will just get use to it though. I'm goin to have to demo some more models.




Only thing I can suggest is get a lower gain screen and try it in natural or cinema with eco power

Maybe the combination will lower the brightness


It would be nice if you could demo projectors going forward with screens with similar gain as the one you currently own. 

I say this because I auditioned a Epson 2045 on a high bright 1.5 gain screen and it literally gave me a headache. I've since seen that same projector on a 1.0 white matte and it looked fine


----------



## shepdog

Thinking about this a bit more I wonder if the size of screen also has a significant effect. 

I have a plasma in the same room as my projector and it is much brighter but it does not bother me, even with the lights off. 

The Epson has never bothered me with the lights on or moderate lighting, however at night, with no lighting, anything above cinema bright echo power is too bright. Honestly I prefer natural with eco power. 

I think it's partially because the screen is taking up my entire field of view. I'm not sure I would describe the effect as motion but for a extended period of time it is fatiguing. 
I don't have that feeling at reduced power. 

This actually concerns me when it comes to HDR. I'm not sure I want 3x the brightness to properly display HDR. In a dark room, cinema bright on high power is very bright. Not sure I would want it much brighter regardless of the picture quality. 


I don't know just a guess.


----------



## flyinmunky99

shepdog said:


> Only thing I can suggest is get a lower gain screen and try it in natural or cinema with eco power
> 
> Maybe the combination will lower the brightness
> 
> 
> It would be nice if you could demo projectors going forward with screens with similar gain as the one you currently own.
> 
> I say this because I auditioned a Epson 2045 on a high bright 1.5 gain screen and it literally gave me a headache. I've since seen that same projector on a 1.0 white matte and it looked fine


I have a matt white 1.0 fixed frame 120". I'm trying to think of Alternatives but the Epson has so many features for the price and low input lag for gaming. I'm bit stuck. My own fault, should have kept my old projector until was satisfied with new.


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

can anyone who came from a DLP projector comment on the motion handling?
Don't want to spend thousands on a headache machine


----------



## terminal33

NeO_Sk8eR said:


> can anyone who came from a DLP projector comment on the motion handling?
> Don't want to spend thousands on a headache machine


I came from the BenQ W1070 and have no problems with Directv, blu ray, Netflix, or gaming with the Epson. But then again, I could just not be sensitive enough to it. Was there something specific you wanted to know?


----------



## hoogs

Coming from a W1070 as well with no issue gaming on it and no issue with TV. It is wayyy brighter than the W1070 though lol


----------



## flyinmunky99

Can someone confirm switching off enhancements / 4K also switches off noise reduction. Pretty sure I had it at 0 or 1. I've being doing some research and read noise reduction can cause motion/ghosting issues on Epsons.

If someone can switch noise reduction up a few notches and see if it causes increased motion blur/ ghosting? Ive boxed mine up but if noise reduction set to 1 is causing issue I will open box up and retest.

Cheers


----------



## hoogs

What material did you see ghosting in? Any specific scenes? I can try later tonight.


----------



## gnolivos

I have an ND2 filter and I am liking what it does to this bright projector. It lowers black levels further with a small sacrifice in brightness.


----------



## c.kingsley

flyinmunky99 said:


> Can someone confirm switching off enhancements / 4K also switches off noise reduction. Pretty sure I had it at 0 or 1. I've being doing some research and read noise reduction can cause motion/ghosting issues on Epsons.
> 
> If someone can switch noise reduction up a few notches and see if it causes increased motion blur/ ghosting? Ive boxed mine up but if noise reduction set to 1 is causing issue I will open box up and retest.
> 
> Cheers


Once upon a time, the advice here was that the first thing anyone should do after turning on a display device is disable all video processing including frame interpolation, noise reduction, etc. and reduce sharpness until there is no ringing (or set to 0, whichever comes first). Some of the pictures I see being posted have the sharpness in the stratosphere. Video processing leaves unnatural artifacts and modifies the picture in ways that were never intended by film makers.


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

hoogs said:


> Coming from a W1070 as well with no issue gaming on it and no issue with TV. It is wayyy brighter than the W1070 though lol





terminal33 said:


> I came from the BenQ W1070 and have no problems with Directv, blu ray, Netflix, or gaming with the Epson. But then again, I could just not be sensitive enough to it. Was there something specific you wanted to know?


Great to know, has anyone been able to get xbox running with HDR?
has the HDMI chipset limitation been confirmed by epson?


----------



## flyinmunky99

c.kingsley said:


> Once upon a time, the advice here was that the first thing anyone should do after turning on a display device is disable all video processing including frame interpolation, noise reduction, etc. and reduce sharpness until there is no ringing (or set to 0, whichever comes first). Some of the pictures I see being posted have the sharpness in the stratosphere. Video processing leaves unnatural artifacts and modifies the picture in ways that were never intended by film makers.


Yeah I agree, initially my enhancement was set to 3 and even that was boardering too much for me, 2 seemed the number to give a positive impact without going over board. 

Im pretty sure I switched off everything but got a nagging feeling even though I set the enhancement presets to off etc noise reduction may or may not have been active at level 1 or more.

I really don't want to get everything out of the box  and set up to find noise reduction set at 0 or whatever it defaults to on enhancements makes no difference to motion/ghosting though.


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

gnolivos said:


> I have an ND2 filter and I am liking what it does to this bright projector. It lowers black levels further with a small sacrifice in brightness.


People should try this if they want their movies to look more like cinema than video (assuming the image is too bright). The DCI spec for reflectance is 14fL, and depending on your screen size and what mode you're in, you could be well above that. Not everyone has a light meter to check and try to adjust the output to get that, and not everyone realises there is a standard for it or that its something they may want to aim for.

A glass Hoya HMC ND filter will help if image brightness is a problem and it can be removed if you want more lumens for 3D or if you need to watch with some lights on.

There's also the in lens iris which will reduce the lumen output by 20% and increase the on/off CR by 20%, so that may be worth trying before getting the filter.


----------



## BamaDave

Would you say that it is an obvious improvement over 1080P? What distance to you set back from the screen? I need some feedback in the image clarity and quality and about 13'? Thanks! David




terminal33 said:


> Below are a few pics I took the other night. Not sure if they help you, but I can take more if you want. I feel that for Directv, image enhancement 3 is best. Overall the 4K scaling is great for Directv, but not as impressive as Netflix 4K.
> 
> Natural - image enhancement 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Natural - image enhancement 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Natural - image enhancement 5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

BamaDave said:


> Would you say that it is an obvious improvement over 1080P? What distance to you set back from the screen? I need some feedback in the image clarity and quality and about 13'? Thanks! David


Coming from a BenQ W1070, it is an obvious improvement to me. I even asked my wife last night and she says she can see the difference as well. I sit about 13' from a 106" 1.1 gain screen. Besides clarity, the image is just overall brighter and colors are deeper. There's an obvious improvement from any source. I am mainly impressed with 1080p blu rays. The e-shift makes them look amazing. Netflix 4K streaming is incredible as well. My wife and I were watching some 4K waterfall content on Netflix just to see how amazing it is. I've posted some pics from all sources (except gaming) so check those out and let me know if you'd like pics from anything else.


----------



## flyinmunky99

hoogs said:


> What material did you see ghosting in? Any specific scenes? I can try later tonight.


I mostly watched Avatar 2D, sully being chased by creature near start or flying scenes, any motion really . Mainly if you can see if when noise reduction/mpeg reduction is turned on higher than 0 if it effects motion blur/ghosting.

Cheers, I doubt it makes a difference but if it does I will unbox my unit to retest before it goes back.


----------



## royboy365

gnolivos said:


> Do you mean the mechanical sound that occurs for a few seconds when you initially engage, or do you mean a sound that remains on?


It's a different sound that remains on the whole time.


----------



## royboy365

Cripsy666 said:


> The hard drive sounds are from the Auto Iris, and not the 4K enhancement. Try turning off the Auto iris and see if the noise is still there. It has been an annoying issue with all of the Epson Projo's with the auto iris.


I will try this and see if it goes away.


----------



## royboy365

gnolivos said:


> When you choose modes like Cinema, there is a filter that gets placed mechanically in the light path. You will hear a high pitch mechanism engaging to place the filter. Is that what you are referring to?


No as I'm familiar with that sound as it starts and stops. The sound I'm hearing stays on and increases noise level the whole time 4k is engaged.

I'm definitely sensitive to sound as I've read reviews on this unit where the reviewer says no fan noise difference between ECO and MEDIUM and I hear a definite difference.

I'm also much closer to the projector than most other setups given it's on a shelf right behind my bed just above my head.


----------



## gnolivos

royboy365 said:


> It's a different sound that remains on the whole time.




I just checked. There is absolutely no whine or sound on mine like you describe.


----------



## gnolivos

If anyone has a way to stream YouTube 4K , go find a video called COSTA RICA IN 4K 60fps. It's absolutely incredible !!


----------



## royboy365

gnolivos said:


> I just checked. There is absolutely no whine or sound on mine like you describe.


Darn! Before I box mine up and send it back, could I please hear from one or two other owners.

... and, for the sake of clarity... I have the sound muted, auto iris is off and I have the 4K enhancement menu choice screen up. When I choose OFF it is silent and when I choose ON there is a change in pitch and an increase in volume that is not present when OFF is chosen.

I'm trying to determine if this is normal or if my unit has an issue and needs to be replaced.


----------



## rupedogg24

royboy365 said:


> Darn! Before I box mine up and send it back, could I please hear from one or two other owners.
> 
> ... and, for the sake of clarity... I have the sound muted, auto iris is off and I have the 4K enhancement menu choice screen up. When I choose OFF it is silent and when I choose ON there is a change in pitch and an increase in volume that is not present when OFF is chosen.
> 
> I'm trying to determine if this is normal or if my unit has an issue and needs to be replaced.


No whine or the sound you described on mine either. It's super quiet. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

royboy365 said:


> Darn! Before I box mine up and send it back, could I please hear from one or two other owners.
> 
> ... and, for the sake of clarity... I have the sound muted, auto iris is off and I have the 4K enhancement menu choice screen up. When I choose OFF it is silent and when I choose ON there is a change in pitch and an increase in volume that is not present when OFF is chosen.
> 
> I'm trying to determine if this is normal or if my unit has an issue and needs to be replaced.


No whine from mine either. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## jaychatbonneau

flyinmunky99 said:


> I have a matt white 1.0 fixed frame 120". I'm trying to think of Alternatives but the Epson has so many features for the price and low input lag for gaming. I'm bit stuck. My own fault, should have kept my old projector until was satisfied with new.


Does anyone know what the input lag is with HDR enabled? I am thinking about getting one of these for use with PS4 Pro. Thanks!


----------



## terminal33

gnolivos said:


> If anyone has a way to stream YouTube 4K , go find a video called COSTA RICA IN 4K 60fps. It's absolutely incredible !!


Oh wow! I just watched that video. Amazing! Can we get Directv to look that good? Anyone tried the 4K box with them? 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

terminal33 said:


> Oh wow! I just watched that video. Amazing! Can we get Directv to look that good? Anyone tried the 4K box with them?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk




Yeah I tested it with the 4K player. Looked as good as those high end Samsung 4K tvs I am not kidding.


----------



## cheesenbizkitz

royboy365 said:


> Darn! Before I box mine up and send it back, could I please hear from one or two other owners.
> 
> ... and, for the sake of clarity... I have the sound muted, auto iris is off and I have the 4K enhancement menu choice screen up. When I choose OFF it is silent and when I choose ON there is a change in pitch and an increase in volume that is not present when OFF is chosen.
> 
> I'm trying to determine if this is normal or if my unit has an issue and needs to be replaced.


Mine has the same kind of whine, it's a little distracting when watching stuff, but I thought it was normal after reading about it a while ago. 4K enhancement off makes the projector super quiet, but when it's in there's like a constant whirring buzzing kind of noise.


----------



## shepdog

cheesenbizkitz said:


> Mine has the same kind of whine, it's a little distracting when watching stuff, but I thought it was normal after reading about it a while ago. 4K enhancement off makes the projector super quiet, but when it's in there's like a constant whirring buzzing kind of noise.




If I mute everything and really try I can hear it. 

It sits directly over my head and I just don't hear it. 

I usually listen at ref level -25 to -20 and I don't hear anything associated with the projector.


----------



## royboy365

cheesenbizkitz said:


> Mine has the same kind of whine, it's a little distracting when watching stuff, but I thought it was normal after reading about it a while ago. 4K enhancement off makes the projector super quiet, but when it's in there's like a constant whirring buzzing kind of noise.


Thank you every one for your replies. It sounds like cheesenbizkitz is experiencing what I am but the rest of you are not. I'm finding it distracting enough that I haven't been using 4k Enhancement unless I'm playing a UHD disk as the PQ is pretty phenomenal without it.

I've decided instead of sending it back to Amazon for a refund, I contacted Epson and they are shipping me a new replacement unit that I'll get in a couple of days and then I'll ship this one back to them. No charge for shipping either direction.

Hopefully there will be a difference. I'll report back if the replacement is better or not. If it is better then cheesenbizkitz may want to do the same.


----------



## Kelvin1000

The ProjectorReviews.com comparison between the JVC X550R and the Epson 5040ub has been published.

It seems to me that their results are very similar to what I have been describing while testing both of these projectors in my home.

Contrary to what some would have you believe, these two projectors are very evenly matched and the choice will ultimately depend on your, budget, setup and content preference.

The Bottom Line: Two standout projectors that can reproduce both 1080 and 4K content. The Epson will know doubt handily outsell the JVC, because I believe it will appeal more, to sports and TV lovers, and even for some/many? big time movie fans. For the hard core fanatics, demanding great black levels, of course the JVC has a real advantage. Those folks (which certainly includes me when it comes to movie watching), will have to trade off between the JVC’s blacks and the advantage in perceived sharpness of the Epson. No matter which of these two you pick, you will almost certainly be thrilled, especially when you consider how great these two are for their price - See more at: http://www.projectorreviews.com/com...s400u-comparison-review/#sthash.Z8IVdTLY.dpuf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

I hope Epson can provide some recommended settings on calibrating HDR, like JVC did. We know it is for the time being, at least it will ease the pain of all those searching souls here !!!


----------



## Ronman79

Kelvin1000 said:


> The ProjectorReviews.com comparison between the JVC X550R and the Epson 5040ub has been published.
> 
> It seems to me that their results are very similar to what I have been describing while testing both of these projectors in my home.
> 
> Contrary to what some would have you believe, these two projectors are very evenly matched and the choice will ultimately depend on your, budget, setup and content preference.
> 
> The Bottom Line: Two standout projectors that can reproduce both 1080 and 4K content. The Epson will know doubt handily outsell the JVC, because I believe it will appeal more, to sports and TV lovers, and even for some/many? big time movie fans. For the hard core fanatics, demanding great black levels, of course the JVC has a real advantage. Those folks (which certainly includes me when it comes to movie watching), will have to trade off between the JVC’s blacks and the advantage in perceived sharpness of the Epson. No matter which of these two you pick, you will almost certainly be thrilled, especially when you consider how great these two are for their price - See more at: http://www.projectorreviews.com/com...s400u-comparison-review/#sthash.Z8IVdTLY.dpuf
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I liked it! Leaning towards the Epson, but still unsure. Movies and the reference movie pic quality is the most weighty item for me, but fight night, game night, and video gaming are also on my lists, so........ 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Nexgen76

ac388 said:


> I hope Epson can provide some recommended settings on calibrating HDR, like JVC did. We know it is for the time being, at least it will ease the pain of all those searching souls here !!!


You right Epson really need to provide some kinda of setting. After viewing this PJ at CEDIA & it was calibrated by K.Miller this PJ throws a killer image. Not sure why some here image was dark but after viewing it in Epson batcave the image I seen was bright.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## Adrienn

Dws6 said:


> I have a dealer telling me he can get me one in 7 days so I believe they are already released.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is good news.... Thank you


----------



## terminal33

Ronman79 said:


> I liked it! Leaning towards the Epson, but still unsure. Movies and the reference movie pic quality is the most weighty item for me, but fight night, game night, and video gaming are also on my lists, so........
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Based on what you wrote, I believe you will be happy with the Epson. Your priorities are the same as mine. But there's a bonus... I didn't expect Netflix 4K to be so jaw-dropping for a projector. I've posted some pictures in this thread from Directv, standard blu ray, and Netflix 4K. Let me know if you want more samples to help make your decision. At first I wasn't sure if I wanted to keep the Epson because I didn't know if it was worth the upgrade over my previous BenQ. But after 5 days with it, she's definitely a keeper. Time to sell the BenQ.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Kelvin1000 said:


> The ProjectorReviews.com comparison between the JVC X550R and the Epson 5040ub has been published.
> 
> It seems to me that their results are very similar to what I have been describing while testing both of these projectors in my home.
> 
> Contrary to what some would have you believe, these two projectors are very evenly matched and the choice will ultimately depend on your, budget, setup and content preference.
> 
> The Bottom Line: Two standout projectors that can reproduce both 1080 and 4K content. The Epson will know doubt handily outsell the JVC, because I believe it will appeal more, to sports and TV lovers, and even for some/many? big time movie fans. For the hard core fanatics, demanding great black levels, of course the JVC has a real advantage. Those folks (which certainly includes me when it comes to movie watching), will have to trade off between the JVC’s blacks and the advantage in perceived sharpness of the Epson. No matter which of these two you pick, you will almost certainly be thrilled, especially when you consider how great these two are for their price - See more at: http://www.projectorreviews.com/com...s400u-comparison-review/#sthash.Z8IVdTLY.dpuf
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




great read, thanks for sharing.


----------



## gnolivos

terminal33 said:


> Based on what you wrote, I believe you will be happy with the Epson. Your priorities are the same as mine. But there's a bonus... I didn't expect Netflix 4K to be so jaw-dropping for a projector. I've posted some pictures in this thread from Directv, standard blu ray, and Netflix 4K. Let me know if you want more samples to help make your decision. At first I wasn't sure if I wanted to keep the Epson because I didn't know if it was worth the upgrade over my previous BenQ. But after 5 days with it, she's definitely a keeper. Time to sell the BenQ.




I was surprised to find some incredible quality 4K / 60fps videos on YouTube if all places. If your 4K player supports YT please try this video: (and pretty much everything from that YouTube user)


----------



## terminal33

gnolivos said:


> I was surprised to find some incredible quality 4K / 60fps videos on YouTube if all places. If your 4K player supports YT please try this video: (and pretty much everything from that YouTube user)]


I saw this video. It looked spectacular!


----------



## gnolivos

terminal33 said:


> I saw this video. It looked spectacular!




Yeah it's the clincher. If anyone watches this and isn't impressed, then their expectations for this projector are unrealistic.


----------



## hoogs

OMG I played some divinity original sin enhanced edition on the PC last night in 4K. I said WOW when it loaded and I saw the crispness and detail this projector projects compared to the W1070. I can't wait to play some of the other games I have like Tomb Raider which is supposed to look great in 4K. I also loaded up the new Hitman which I had played on the W1070 a bit and said WOW again.

I also messed around with the Nvidia control panel. I confirmed that 4K @ 30hz will display 4:4:4 but 4K @ 60 is limited to 4:2:0. That is probably already known, just thought I'd throw it out there.


----------



## Threefiddie

hoogs said:


> I also messed around with the Nvidia control panel. I confirmed that 4K @ 30hz will display 4:4:4 but 4K @ 60 is limited to 4:2:0. That is probably already known, just thought I'd throw it out there.


yeah both eww and sad. pc needs 4:4:4 60


----------



## hoogs

Threefiddie said:


> yeah both eww and sad. pc needs 4:4:4 60


While not ideal it still looks amazing


----------



## Kelvin1000

A couple of standard 1080p pics with out of the box settings and some ambient light:





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

Looks good, Kelvin!


----------



## filter_sweep

hoogs said:


> OMG I played some divinity original sin enhanced edition on the PC last night in 4K. I said WOW when it loaded and I saw the crispness and detail this projector projects compared to the W1070. I can't wait to play some of the other games I have like Tomb Raider which is supposed to look great in 4K. I also loaded up the new Hitman which I had played on the W1070 a bit and said WOW again.
> 
> I also messed around with the Nvidia control panel. I confirmed that 4K @ 30hz will display 4:4:4 but 4K @ 60 is limited to 4:2:0. That is probably already known, just thought I'd throw it out there.




Does anyone know if 1440p @ 60hz will display 4:4:4 within the 10.2 bandwidth? Or at least 4:4:2? I tried searching for this but can't find any charts with 1440p. 


I'm thinking 1440p is really closer to the "effective" resolution the Epson pixel shifting is creating anyway, so forcing your GPU to create 4k frames @ 60hz might not be worth it anyway, would rather crank up the detail settings and live with 1440p.


Edit - I guess you have to throw in the 8 vs 10 vs 12 bitrate thing in there too. I'll be getting the 5040 in about a week so I'll report back if no one else knows the answer.


----------



## hoogs

filter_sweep said:


> Does anyone know if 1440p @ 60hz will display 4:4:4 within the 10.2 bandwidth? Or at least 4:4:2? I tried searching for this but can't find any charts with 1440p.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking 1440p is really closer to the "effective" resolution the Epson pixel shifting is creating anyway, so forcing your GPU to create 4k frames @ 60hz might not be worth it anyway, would rather crank up the detail settings and live with 1440p.
> 
> 
> Edit - I guess you have to throw in the 8 vs 10 vs 12 bitrate thing in there too. I'll be getting the 5040 in about a week so I'll report back if no one else knows the answer.


I will check this tonight and let you know. My GTX1080 handles either OK


----------



## canillo

hoogs said:


> OMG I played some divinity original sin enhanced edition on the PC last night in 4K. I said WOW when it loaded and I saw the crispness and detail this projector projects compared to the W1070. I can't wait to play some of the other games I have like Tomb Raider which is supposed to look great in 4K. I also loaded up the new Hitman which I had played on the W1070 a bit and said WOW again.
> 
> I also messed around with the Nvidia control panel. I confirmed that 4K @ 30hz will display 4:4:4 but 4K @ 60 is limited to 4:2:0. That is probably already known, just thought I'd throw it out there.


4k 30hz 4.4.4 at how many bits??


----------



## hoogs

canillo said:


> 4k 30hz 4.4.4 at how many bits??


It said 8bit


----------



## filter_sweep

hoogs said:


> I will check this tonight and let you know. My GTX1080 handles either OK




Nice, that would be great! I'm still using a two-year old R290 (water cooled), it still handles most games without issues so I'm not too motivated to upgrade... going to wait at least one more year. 


I'm going to snake (through attic) a 50ft monoprice cabernet cable from my office to the HT I'm almost finished building, go through the AVR then another 35ft cable to the 5040. I've never run a pc signal through an AVR using HDMI before so I'm hoping it will all just work but I'm mentally prepared to spend a few hours troubleshooting the inevitable quirks. I've used the CRU utility before (needed for AMD GPUs) and I figure I'll need to use it again. I'm also snaking a 65ft USB cable to the HT to go into a powered USB hub so I can use a keyboard / mouse combo and game controller, so I should be able to completely control the PC from the HT without dealing with the heat or noise. Wish me luck!


----------



## flyinmunky99

Ok so I had my projector boxed up ready to return due to the motion issues. I decided to give it another shot and I think I'm ok now. At first I thought frame interpolation was ok on low. Tried it off and on when I first tried projector and seemed ok. But now I have clearly seen it introduce artefacts that I can replicate 

I'm sure it was part of the motion issue I was seeing. The scene in tangled when finn slides down the castle building and then a shot from above with castle panning up. The top of the building judders badly as it nears top of screen. With FI off its fine, yes not clear but not a distraction.

Second thing I noticed is enhancement cranks up noise and mpeg reduction when selecting presets. I manually went into these and set to 0.

I could be wrong but shouldn't noise reduction and mpeg etc b at 0 for bluray?

Anyway the good news I'm now happy


----------



## shepdog

flyinmunky99 said:


> Ok so I had my projector boxed up ready to return due to the motion issues. I decided to give it another shot and I think I'm ok now. At first I thought frame interpolation was ok on low. Tried it off and on when I first tried projector and seemed ok. But now I have clearly seen it introduce artefacts that I can replicate
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure it was part of the motion issue I was seeing. The scene in tangled when finn slides down the castle building and then a shot from above with castle panning up. The top of the building judders badly as it nears top of screen. With FI off its fine, yes not clear but not a distraction.
> 
> 
> 
> Second thing I noticed is enhancement cranks up noise and mpeg reduction when selecting presets. I manually went into these and set to 0.
> 
> 
> 
> I could be wrong but shouldn't noise reduction and mpeg etc b at 0 for bluray?
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway the good news I'm now happy




I've never used frame interpolation because the 4K upscaling is so good. I will check my noise reduction


----------



## shepdog

ac388 said:


> I hope Epson can provide some recommended settings on calibrating HDR, like JVC did. We know it is for the time being, at least it will ease the pain of all those searching souls here !!!




After reading the secrets review I applied their settings. 

Natural
Eco
Gamma -1
Iris -20

Nothing else was changed. 

The picture is not as bright. 
The colors appear accurate but maybe not as much immediate pop. However when I go back to cinema everything is overly saturated until I adjust to viewing it 

It's interesting.


----------



## gnolivos

And to test the black levels and iris I recommend this awesome video in 4K!


----------



## canillo

filter_sweep said:


> hoogs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will check this tonight and let you know. My GTX1080 handles either OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, that would be great! I'm still using a two-year old R290 (water cooled), it still handles most games without issues so I'm not too motivated to upgrade... going to wait at least one more year.
> 
> 
> I'm going to snake (through attic) a 50ft monoprice cabernet cable from my office to the HT I'm almost finished building, go through the AVR then another 35ft cable to the 5040. I've never run a pc signal through an AVR using HDMI before so I'm hoping it will all just work but I'm mentally prepared to spend a few hours troubleshooting the inevitable quirks. I've used the CRU utility before (needed for AMD GPUs) and I figure I'll need to use it again. I'm also snaking a 65ft USB cable to the HT to go into a powered USB hub so I can use a keyboard / mouse combo and game controller, so I should be able to completely control the PC from the HT without dealing with the heat or noise. Wish me luck!
Click to expand...

you will prob have a hard time getting the HDMI to transfer 4k at 60p at that long distance


----------



## gnolivos

shepdog said:


> After reading the secrets review I applied their settings.
> 
> Natural
> Eco
> Gamma -1
> Iris -20
> 
> Nothing else was changed.
> 
> The picture is not as bright.
> The colors appear accurate but maybe not as much immediate pop. However when I go back to cinema everything is overly saturated until I adjust to viewing it
> 
> It's interesting.




Just get your iris back to 0 and brightness will be back. 

Or use Cinema mode. It really is the best imho for movies.


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

HDR xbox requires 10-bit 4:2:0 4k/60
Does this work from the PC?


----------



## shepdog

gnolivos said:


> Just get your iris back to 0 and brightness will be back.
> 
> Or use Cinema mode. It really is the best imho for movies.




That's usually what I do. I was just trying out the settings the author of the review used.


----------



## JewDaddy

gnolivos said:


> I was surprised to find some incredible quality 4K / 60fps videos on YouTube if all places. If your 4K player supports YT please try this video: (and pretty much everything from that YouTube user)
> 
> https://youtu.be/iNJdPyoqt8U


How are you guys watching YouTube 4K on the epson?


----------



## Kelvin1000

Most 4K players: Panasonic, Philips, Samsung, ROKU and I think Xbox One S as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

JewDaddy said:


> How are you guys watching YouTube 4K on the epson?




I've tried the Philips 4K bR player, and the Roku 4. Both seems to have same streaming quality for Netflix and YouTube.


----------



## c.kingsley

hoogs said:


> I will check this tonight and let you know. My GTX1080 handles either OK


If you want to test this thoroughly, use CRU (custom resolution utility) to make a custom resolution for 4k x 2k and set your Hz to 59 or 61 then reboot. This will override the display's EDID. The only way to truly test a video display from a PC is to force the resolution upon it. Once you have that working, put up a chroma test pattern and take a picture of text on a red or magenta field. Here is an example of a display that is *not *passing 4:4:4 -- http://imgur.com/a/8nt9o

Notice how the text is smeared on the magenta color bar. When it is 4:4:4, the text in each bar will look completely legible.

If you use a DVI -> HDMI cable for this test, open the Nvidia Control Panel. Open Display -> Change Resolution. Once the override succeeds the connector type will display *Connector: DVI - PC Display*.

Nvidia drivers have a well documented problem with video display devices where they default to 4:2:0 at all resolutions when connected to video displays. They think you are plugged into a TV because that is what the EDID on the display told them.

If you have questions about this feel free to PM me and I can walk you through the process in greater detail.


----------



## Ken30NYC

flyinmunky99 said:


> Ok so I had my projector boxed up ready to return due to the motion issues. I decided to give it another shot and I think I'm ok now. At first I thought frame interpolation was ok on low. Tried it off and on when I first tried projector and seemed ok. But now I have clearly seen it introduce artefacts that I can replicate
> 
> I'm sure it was part of the motion issue I was seeing. The scene in tangled when finn slides down the castle building and then a shot from above with castle panning up. The top of the building judders badly as it nears top of screen. With FI off its fine, yes not clear but not a distraction.
> 
> Second thing I noticed is enhancement cranks up noise and mpeg reduction when selecting presets. I manually went into these and set to 0.
> 
> I could be wrong but shouldn't noise reduction and mpeg etc b at 0 for bluray?
> 
> Anyway the good news I'm now happy



I've been reading through the thread and I saw the issues you were having. I too was having the same problem. Watching the Captain America Cival War fight scenes in 3D had some horrible judder. It was actually giving me a headache. 

The setting that really made the difference for me was the IMAGE PROCESSING: Fast or Fine. When I switched it to FAST it was like a whole new world. It automatically disabled 4K enhancement and frame interpolation but it looks so much better now. 

I guess Epson thinks that's a pretty important setting too because they have it set as USER button on the remote by default.

That being said I can't believe how phenomenal the 3D is on this projector. I'm coming from a Panasonic 8000, and the 3D was very dark and had lots of crosstalk. I almost feel like returning my 4K player because I can't see ever buying the 4K version of a movie over the 3D version. I've never seen such perfect 3D with active shutter glasses before. 

Glad you didn't return your projector. It's a real gem for the price.


----------



## mrvtec

Hi Can someone please mention the box dimensions, will be travelling to Australia and looking to pick up a 5040 while im there since its significantly cheaper there than NZ


----------



## flyinmunky99

Ken30NYC said:


> I've been reading through the thread and I saw the issues you were having. I too was having the same problem. Watching the Captain America Cival War fight scenes in 3D had some horrible judder. It was actually giving me a headache.
> 
> The setting that really made the difference for me was the IMAGE PROCESSING: Fast or Fine. When I switched it to FAST it was like a whole new world. It automatically disabled 4K enhancement and frame interpolation but it looks so much better now.
> 
> I guess Epson thinks that's a pretty important setting too because they have it set as USER button on the remote by default.
> 
> That being said I can't believe how phenomenal the 3D is on this projector. I'm coming from a Panasonic 8000, and the 3D was very dark and had lots of crosstalk. I almost feel like returning my 4K player because I can't see ever buying the 4K version of a movie over the 3D version. I've never seen such perfect 3D with active shutter glasses before.
> 
> Glad you didn't return your projector. It's a real gem for the price.


Can i ask what your 3D settings are? Ive only watched Avatar and Tangled but not impressed with 3D to be honest. Ive played with settings but I seem to improve crosstalk for objects while causing more cross talk for objects at different depth/area of image. Also depth seems ok but I find the 3D a bit flat a lot of the times.


----------



## hoogs

c.kingsley said:


> If you want to test this thoroughly, use CRU (custom resolution utility) to make a custom resolution for 4k x 2k and set your Hz to 59 or 61 then reboot. This will override the display's EDID. The only way to truly test a video display from a PC is to force the resolution upon it. Once you have that working, put up a chroma test pattern and take a picture of text on a red or magenta field. Here is an example of a display that is *not *passing 4:4:4 -- http://imgur.com/a/8nt9o
> 
> Notice how the text is smeared on the magenta color bar. When it is 4:4:4, the text in each bar will look completely legible.
> 
> If you use a DVI -> HDMI cable for this test, open the Nvidia Control Panel. Open Display -> Change Resolution. Once the override succeeds the connector type will display *Connector: DVI - PC Display*.
> 
> Nvidia drivers have a well documented problem with video display devices where they default to 4:2:0 at all resolutions when connected to video displays. They think you are plugged into a TV because that is what the EDID on the display told them.
> 
> If you have questions about this feel free to PM me and I can walk you through the process in greater detail.


Didn't work, still only 4:2:0 at 60hz. I also tried 1440p and could only get 4:4:4 at 30hz. So it appears this projector cannot do 4:4:4 at 60hz.


----------



## c.kingsley

hoogs said:


> Didn't work, still only 4:2:0 at 60hz. I also tried 1440p and could only get 4:4:4 at 30hz. So it appears this projector cannot do 4:4:4 at 60hz.


Thank you! I guess that settles it.


----------



## Cripsy666

Ken30NYC said:


> I've been reading through the thread and I saw the issues you were having. I too was having the same problem. Watching the Captain America Cival War fight scenes in 3D had some horrible judder. It was actually giving me a headache.
> 
> The setting that really made the difference for me was the IMAGE PROCESSING: Fast or Fine. When I switched it to FAST it was like a whole new world. It automatically disabled 4K enhancement and frame interpolation but it looks so much better now.
> 
> I guess Epson thinks that's a pretty important setting too because they have it set as USER button on the remote by default.
> 
> That being said I can't believe how phenomenal the 3D is on this projector. I'm coming from a Panasonic 8000, and the 3D was very dark and had lots of crosstalk. I almost feel like returning my 4K player because I can't see ever buying the 4K version of a movie over the 3D version. I've never seen such perfect 3D with active shutter glasses before.
> 
> Glad you didn't return your projector. It's a real gem for the price.



Maybe it is just me.. but....Why are people using FI? and why are the people using FI complaining about it? It is inserting false frames... of course it will never look perfect... If you are considering returning a projector for that reason, then perhaps a different display device would be more suited. That's like returning a guitar amp because activating distortion/overdrive, distorts the original sound. The projector is trying to help you by making the picture look smooth, when the original source is not.... Perhaps it is just ignorance... if so.. I apologize... There are too many product returns due to the ill-informed.


----------



## filter_sweep

canillo said:


> you will prob have a hard time getting the HDMI to transfer 4k at 60p at that long distance


I assume you are correct, but I only want to transfer 1440p at 60hz, not 4k. My GPU isn't powerful to game at 4k right now, and may not be for several years. 1440p is a nice step up from 1080p though.


----------



## filter_sweep

hoogs said:


> Didn't work, still only 4:2:0 at 60hz. I also tried 1440p and could only get 4:4:4 at 30hz. So it appears this projector cannot do 4:4:4 at 60hz.


Bummer, thanks for doing the test though! I guess once I have the projector in my hands I'll have to decide if I prefer 4:2:0 at 1440p or 4:4:4 at 1080p. Life always a series of compromises though... you can have anything you want but not everything you want.


----------



## c.kingsley

filter_sweep said:


> Bummer, thanks for doing the test though! I guess once I have the projector in my hands I'll have to decide if I prefer 4:2:0 at 1440p or 4:4:4 at 1080p. Life always a series of compromises though... you can have anything you want but not everything you want.


As it stands now, even with a GTX 1080 with an i7 CPU it is difficult to game at maxed out 1440p. The best compromise currently is 1080p at max settings and this PJ will handle that just fine. I know the new Xbox is claiming it will do 4k but that is a pipe dream. We are at least 1-2 years from that being viable even on a high end PC. Fully utilized 1080p is the high end of the curve for this generation. By the time cards are ready to support gaming at 4k, there will be true 4k PJs to do it on.


----------



## Savatage316

Just got my evga 1080, for those gaming with it what settings are you using combined with the 5040?


----------



## Dws6

filter_sweep said:


> Nice, that would be great! I'm still using a two-year old R290 (water cooled), it still handles most games without issues so I'm not too motivated to upgrade... going to wait at least one more year.
> 
> 
> I'm going to snake (through attic) a 50ft monoprice cabernet cable from my office to the HT I'm almost finished building, go through the AVR then another 35ft cable to the 5040. I've never run a pc signal through an AVR using HDMI before so I'm hoping it will all just work but I'm mentally prepared to spend a few hours troubleshooting the inevitable quirks. I've used the CRU utility before (needed for AMD GPUs) and I figure I'll need to use it again. I'm also snaking a 65ft USB cable to the HT to go into a powered USB hub so I can use a keyboard / mouse combo and game controller, so I should be able to completely control the PC from the HT without dealing with the heat or noise. Wish me luck!



I would double check that USB cable length before snaking. I seem to remember a USB limitation of around 20'. If that's the case at 3.5 times the length I'm anticipating unreliability it it works at all. Just double check before going through all that work is all. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

Also are you guys running 4k enhancements when your resolution is set to 4k while gaming?


----------



## terminal33

gnolivos said:


> I was surprised to find some incredible quality 4K / 60fps videos on YouTube if all places. If your 4K player supports YT please try this video: (and pretty much everything from that YouTube user)


Did you see the snow monkeys in Japan 5K video by them? I think that's my favorite one so far. On another note, I watched my first full blu ray tonight on the Epson... The Finest Hours in standard 1080P. The e-shifting was spectacular. The black level and clarity was very impressive. Then I decided to browse Neflix and watched an episode of Fuller House in 4K and that was nothing short of spectacular. (The PQ that is, not the episode.) But that snow monkeys video is simply !


----------



## canillo

has anybody tried to play with 4k player color settings while watching HDR? maybe a bit on the PJ and a bit on the player could make the perfect combination..


----------



## canillo

OMG!!! please listen to our fellow members..look at costa rica in 4k and snow monkeys of japan5k...it looks Amazing..best content Ive seen from this projector.....including 4k movies ... and its not even t2020...


----------



## talon95

c.kingsley said:


> As it stands now, even with a GTX 1080 with an i7 CPU it is difficult to game at maxed out 1440p. The best compromise currently is 1080p at max settings and this PJ will handle that just fine. I know the new Xbox is claiming it will do 4k but that is a pipe dream. We are at least 1-2 years from that being viable even on a high end PC. Fully utilized 1080p is the high end of the curve for this generation. By the time cards are ready to support gaming at 4k, there will be true 4k PJs to do it on.


Depends on your target framerate I guess. I'm don't do any serious multiplayer anymore, so 30+fps is good enough for me and the GTX 1080 I have does that easily at 4k at max settings in the games I've played (Doom, Tomb Raider, Battlefront).


----------



## flyinmunky99

Cripsy666 said:


> Maybe it is just me.. but....Why are people using FI? and why are the people using FI complaining about it? It is inserting false frames... of course it will never look perfect... If you are considering returning a projector for that reason, then perhaps a different display device would be more suited. That's like returning a guitar amp because activating distortion/overdrive, distorts the original sound. The projector is trying to help you by making the picture look smooth, when the original source is not.... Perhaps it is just ignorance... if so.. I apologize... There are too many product returns due to the ill-informed.


You are right it should of been obvious but coming from my old Epson FI on low helped the image a little without causing any distractions or artefacts to my eyes. I just assumed in my error on low it would be the same or better than my 5 year old Epson LCD. Guess it wasn't as aggressive back then.

I'm glad I went back though and put everything off and to 0 in settings and worked my way up. Should have done that from start really.


----------



## gnolivos

Does anyone understand why the Aspect Ratio options are greyed out while on HDMI input source? My old projector allowed this via HDMI and was useful in some (albeit few) instances.


----------



## filter_sweep

Dws6 said:


> I would double check that USB cable length before snaking. I seem to remember a USB limitation of around 20'. If that's the case at 3.5 times the length I'm anticipating unreliability it it works at all. Just double check before going through all that work is all.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thanks for the heads up... I know about that limitation but after some searching I found this active monoprice USB cable with good reviews (see link below). I'll know soon enough if it works!


http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_...wg8VMwDwgup5VVAjeKMUe_HrZYPv-EmEGMaAlLw8P8HAQ


----------



## mcallister

Was able to get my 5040 mounted. I'm very pleased with the picture! 

I had to use a good amount of lens shift to center it on my screen. Will this degrade the picture? Or does keystone only degrade the pic? In the user guide referring to lens shift it mentions using the home button, and I'm a little confused. If I use the home button does it just reset the lens shift to the factory location?


----------



## Cripsy666

mcallister said:


> Was able to get my 5040 mounted. I'm very pleased with the picture!
> 
> I had to use a good amount of lens shift to center it on my screen. Will this degrade the picture? Or does keystone only degrade the pic? In the user guide referring to lens shift it mentions using the home button, and I'm a little confused. If I use the home button does it just reset the lens shift to the factory location?



Lens shift does not do anything to affect the picture, however key stoning will. It is best to NOT use keystone at all if you don't have to.


As for the home button.. they just mean to press that first so that it goes back to the starting position, so that you know you are at the initial point before using lens shift.


----------



## gnolivos

Having tested Sony's Reality Creation engine (which I find rather harsh), I continue to be very impressed with Epson's image enhancement controls. I set mine at preset #3 and never touch it. It doesn't add noticeable noise to my eyes, and the amount of edge enhancement is very tolerable to my eyes, while adding substantial perceived detail to both Bluray and Cable Tv. 

Hard to believe Epson can beat Sony at the image quality game.


----------



## Ken30NYC

flyinmunky99 said:


> Can i ask what your 3D settings are? Ive only watched Avatar and Tangled but not impressed with 3D to be honest. Ive played with settings but I seem to improve crosstalk for objects while causing more cross talk for objects at different depth/area of image. Also depth seems ok but I find the 3D a bit flat a lot of the times.


I'm using the ELPGS03 glasses for one. I honestly haven't changed many settings as far as 3D is concerned. The first 3D movie I watched was Enchanted Kingdom which is a slow moving animal documentary. Basically had all the 4K enhancements and FI on and it looked amazing. Then I put on CA: Civil War and started having major problems with all the jerky camera movements. I don't own Avatar but saw it a couple times in the theater and remember a few scenes were brutal in 3D because of the shaky camera. Like when that beast was chasing Sully under the tree towards the beginning. They need to realize 3D needs nice smooth cinematography to avoid giving people headaches. If you watched Pacific Rim you'll notice there's none of that shaky camera nonsense. They made a 3D movie right.

As far as 3D settings I left the depth on zero. I messed around with it a bit but like you said it does introduce a bit of crosstalk. One thing you can try is increasing the depth and then lowering the brightness of your glasses to medium to help counteract the crosstalk. Actually I just tried it out right now and it works pretty well. Still plenty bright and a bit deeper than the default 0. I may leave it like that 

As for the rest.... 3D DYNAMIC, Power Consumption: High, Iris: High Speed. Most important thing was Image Processing: FAST FI and 4K enhancement off. I set Image preset to off but I didn't notice a difference whether it was on 1 or 5 or off. I tried googling and I don't even know what that does. Anyone?


----------



## gnolivos

Image preset modes simply encompass presets for all the image enhancement settings. So, each image preset has a defined value for each of: noise reduction, mpeg noise reduction, super resolution, and detail enhancement. 
I am not sure whether this has any effect on 3-D mode though. Have not tested.


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

c.kingsley said:


> As it stands now, even with a GTX 1080 with an i7 CPU it is difficult to game at maxed out 1440p. The best compromise currently is 1080p at max settings and this PJ will handle that just fine. I know the new Xbox is claiming it will do 4k but that is a pipe dream. We are at least 1-2 years from that being viable even on a high end PC. Fully utilized 1080p is the high end of the curve for this generation. By the time cards are ready to support gaming at 4k, there will be true 4k PJs to do it on.


I would just consider this projector as a 1080p projector with HDR for gaming. Which is actually quite good if you are OK with 60hz only. 

You can also run the game on PC at some higher internal resolution to improve the final pixel details. But at UHD / 60 since it can only manage 420 in 8-bit, so that means no HDR at UHD for gaming (forget about 30hz for gaming). 

Even if the projector _could _accept 4k / 60 / 444 in 8-bit, it wouldn't make that much difference on screen due to the fact that it's Faux-K.

The important thing is that this projector looks good playing back movies at UHD in HDR, without frame interpolation (if you are ok with that), and you can do HDR at 1080p for gaming (on PC or consoles) which is still a huge upgrade over SDR, no question.

And for those of us who want / need frame interpolation, the only way to do it is downgrade the resolution from UHD to 1080p using something like the HDRFury. 

My biggest annoyance with this projector which makes it hard for me to bite, _isn't the fact that it only has got 10 gbps inputs_, it's the fact that it does, and it's *not taken full advantage of*. 

The projector could *easily accept 120hz for 2D, even with HDR10*, in RGB over 10gbps, and the *LCD panels and supporting electronics already manage 120hz* (due to 3D Blurays + shutter glasses needing 120hz for two eyes instead of 60hz to function), so really it is a major goof that they didn't allow 120hz 1080p which the inputs can manage easily. 

For gaming, that would have made it a "must buy" projector instead of a "shrug" for PC gaming at least (console HDR gaming is perfect, they can't typically only manage 60hz at best, although next year the new Xbox One could probably easily do 120hz 1080p).

*If Epson is reading this* : you will have many sales (at least one : myself) on your hands if you update the firmware to add 120hz input at 1080p in 8-bit SDR, or 96hz with HDR10. HDR is the reason to buy this projector, plus lowish lag, but for gamers we need higher refresh rates than 60hz and there is no technical reason not to provide it.

If that ever happens, then I'll buy it. It should totally be possible too, because HDMI 2.0 / 10gbp has 1080p / 120hz support officially in the spec and in the bandwidth limits, so whatever input chips this 5040 Epson model uses, it should be just a matter of exposing it in the EDID and activating that. This is *less work than providing shutter-glasses-based Bluray 3D support*, which it handles at 120hz and 1080p natively.


----------



## Kelvin1000

canillo said:


> OMG!!! please listen to our fellow members..look at costa rica in 4k and snow monkeys of japan5k...it looks Amazing..best content Ive seen from this projector.....including 4k movies ... and its not even t2020...




If you guys want to be impressed go to YouTube: SAMSUNG 4K DEMO AROUND THE WORLD





Prepared to be amazed!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

So with my 1080 at 4k resolution I'm getting 40ish to 50 frames, Ocd a little but still wanna test more. Running deus ex, msaa off obviously. What about you guys situ 1080s, what are you getting so far or what's the best you've seen for frames?


----------



## Viche

gnolivos said:


> I have an ND2 filter and I am liking what it does to this bright projector. It lowers black levels further with a small sacrifice in brightness.


Had you already tried closing down the iris as far as possible? 

It's funny how the argument keep swinging back-and-forth from this project isn't bright enough to it's so bright that it's giving me headaches.


----------



## shepdog

Viche said:


> Had you already tried closing down the iris as far as possible?
> 
> 
> 
> It's funny how the argument keep swinging back-and-forth from this project isn't bright enough to it's so bright that it's giving me headaches.




SDR = plenty bright
HDR = a little less bright

It's just taking some time to dial in to personal preference.


----------



## Ken30NYC

Kelvin1000 said:


> If you guys want to be impressed go to YouTube: SAMSUNG 4K DEMO AROUND THE WORLD
> https://youtu.be/u9lwcRffq7c
> 
> Prepared to be amazed!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yeah man, that really shows off the projector. Its sad switching back over to Cable TV and seeing such a crappy image when you know what the projector is capable of. Just not enough good 4K out there at the moment.


----------



## flyinmunky99

I'm trying to send 4K via Plex but the Epson shows its as 1080 res in the info screen. How are you guys sending youtube 4K videos to the projector?

Can it be done with Plex? Plex shows its a 4k file etc but when playing Epson info just shows 1080p.


----------



## gnolivos

Some screenies for my peeps on the fence...

iPhone 6 unretouched. Only cropped.


----------



## Kelvin1000

Most 4K players have the 4K YouTube App (Samsung, Panasonic, Phillips and ROKU).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

NICE! And that's with an AT screen!


----------



## gnolivos

Ronman79 said:


> NICE! And that's with an AT screen!




And the iPhone had trouble focusing on the dark. It's actually sharper than these look I promise.


----------



## imapfsr

Hey all,
Just a heads up for those of you using the Xbox One S. Received an update last night and I am now getting HDR but only up to 8bit if I remember correctly but it is a start. Unless my memory is really failing and that was already there then that is good news.
A little help from everyone if I may...I also have the Philips player and through both the Xbox and Philips I dont seem to be able to get Youtube in 4k. I can search the 4k videos but when I play them the little badge still shows HD. Am I missing a setting somewhere as this is driving me crazy.....wanna see the snow monkeys, is that too much to ask 
Thanks in advance.


----------



## gnolivos

imapfsr said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Just a heads up for those of you using the Xbox One S. Received an update last night and I am now getting HDR but only up to 8bit if I remember correctly but it is a start. Unless my memory is really failing and that was already there then that is good news.
> 
> A little help from everyone if I may...I also have the Philips player and through both the Xbox and Philips I dont seem to be able to get Youtube in 4k. I can search the 4k videos but when I play them the little badge still shows HD. Am I missing a setting somewhere as this is driving me crazy.....wanna see the snow monkeys, is that too much to ask
> 
> Thanks in advance.




I'm pretty sure the Philips player is playing 4K even if the badge says HD. Just Check your projector info screen. It should say 2160x......


----------



## Pendraegon

So I just tested this with an Xbox one s that I got today. Going straight from the Xbox to the projector it now says that I can play hdr, looking at 4k details it says that it supports hdr but not 10 bit. I put in a blu-ray however (lego movie uhd) and got a popup that hdr isn't supported. Is anyone else having issues? Also the Netflix app isn't going above 1080p even though I'm getting 60mbps down


----------



## Viche

gnolivos said:


> Yeah I tested it with the 4K player. Looked as good as those high end Samsung 4K tvs I am not kidding.


Direct TV has a 4K player or were you talking about the YouTube video? 



royboy365 said:


> Thank you every one for your replies. It sounds like cheesenbizkitz is experiencing what I am but the rest of you are not. I'm finding it distracting enough that I haven't been using 4k Enhancement unless I'm playing a UHD disk as the PQ is pretty phenomenal without it.
> 
> I've decided instead of sending it back to Amazon for a refund, I contacted Epson and they are shipping me a new replacement unit that I'll get in a couple of days and then I'll ship this one back to them. No charge for shipping either direction.
> 
> Hopefully there will be a difference. I'll report back if the replacement is better or not. If it is better then cheesenbizkitz may want to do the same.


 I'm assuming the sound is caused by whatever mechanism is used to shift the pixels back-and-forth rapidly.


----------



## gnolivos

@Viche I was referring to the Phillips UHD 4K player, not DirecTV


----------



## doogue

ac388 said:


> I hope Epson can provide some recommended settings on calibrating HDR, like JVC did. We know it is for the time being, at least it will ease the pain of all those searching souls here !!!


Agreed - I haven't seen any calibration recommendations yet!


----------



## royboy365

mcallister said:


> Was able to get my 5040 mounted. I'm very pleased with the picture!
> 
> I had to use a good amount of lens shift to center it on my screen. Will this degrade the picture? Or does keystone only degrade the pic? In the user guide referring to lens shift it mentions using the home button, and I'm a little confused. If I use the home button does it just reset the lens shift to the factory location?


The only thing it affects is light output by a small amount.


----------



## Viche

hoogs said:


> OMG I played some divinity original sin enhanced edition on the PC last night in 4K. I said WOW when it loaded and I saw the crispness and detail this projector projects compared to the W1070. I can't wait to play some of the other games I have like Tomb Raider which is supposed to look great in 4K. I also loaded up the new Hitman which I had played on the W1070 a bit and said WOW again.
> 
> I also messed around with the Nvidia control panel. I confirmed that 4K @ 30hz will display 4:4:4 but 4K @ 60 is limited to 4:2:0. That is probably already known, just thought I'd throw it out there.


How would you describe the difference in image quality between PC games at 4:4:4 and 4:2:0?



Ken30NYC said:


> I've been reading through the thread and I saw the issues you were having. I too was having the same problem. Watching the Captain America Cival War fight scenes in 3D had some horrible judder. It was actually giving me a headache.
> 
> The setting that really made the difference for me was the IMAGE PROCESSING: Fast or Fine. When I switched it to FAST it was like a whole new world. It automatically disabled 4K enhancement and frame interpolation but it looks so much better now.
> 
> I guess Epson thinks that's a pretty important setting too because they have it set as USER button on the remote by default.
> 
> That being said I can't believe how phenomenal the 3D is on this projector. I'm coming from a Panasonic 8000, and the 3D was very dark and had lots of crosstalk. I almost feel like returning my 4K player because I can't see ever buying the 4K version of a movie over the 3D version. I've never seen such perfect 3D with active shutter glasses before.
> 
> Glad you didn't return your projector. It's a real gem for the price.


I don't get it. Are you saying that with slow moving movies, you turn on fauxK + FI, but in fast action movies, you switch to fast mode which disables everything? I keep hearing that upscaling 1080 p movies on this projector looks great. If you're turning that feature off, then doesn't that make the 5040 just a slightly brighter 5030 with a mechanical lens?



RLBURNSIDE said:


> I would just consider this projector as a 1080p projector with HDR for gaming. Which is actually quite good if you are OK with 60hz only.
> 
> You can also run the game on PC at some higher internal resolution to improve the final pixel details. But at UHD / 60 since it can only manage 420 in 8-bit, so that means no HDR at UHD for gaming (forget about 30hz for gaming).
> 
> Even if the projector _could _accept 4k / 60 / 444 in 8-bit, it wouldn't make that much difference on screen due to the fact that it's Faux-K.
> 
> The important thing is that this projector looks good playing back movies at UHD in HDR, without frame interpolation (if you are ok with that), and you can do HDR at 1080p for gaming (on PC or consoles) which is still a huge upgrade over SDR, no question.
> 
> And for those of us who want / need frame interpolation, the only way to do it is downgrade the resolution from UHD to 1080p using something like the HDRFury.
> 
> My biggest annoyance with this projector which makes it hard for me to bite, _isn't the fact that it only has got 10 gbps inputs_, it's the fact that it does, and it's *not taken full advantage of*.
> 
> The projector could *easily accept 120hz for 2D, even with HDR10*, in RGB over 10gbps, and the *LCD panels and supporting electronics already manage 120hz* (due to 3D Blurays + shutter glasses needing 120hz for two eyes instead of 60hz to function), so really it is a major goof that they didn't allow 120hz 1080p which the inputs can manage easily.
> 
> For gaming, that would have made it a "must buy" projector instead of a "shrug" for PC gaming at least (console HDR gaming is perfect, they can't typically only manage 60hz at best, although next year the new Xbox One could probably easily do 120hz 1080p).
> 
> *If Epson is reading this* : you will have many sales (at least one : myself) on your hands if you update the firmware to add 120hz input at 1080p in 8-bit SDR, or 96hz with HDR10. HDR is the reason to buy this projector, plus lowish lag, but for gamers we need higher refresh rates than 60hz and there is no technical reason not to provide it.
> 
> If that ever happens, then I'll buy it. It should totally be possible too, because HDMI 2.0 / 10gbp has 1080p / 120hz support officially in the spec and in the bandwidth limits, so whatever input chips this 5040 Epson model uses, it should be just a matter of exposing it in the EDID and activating that. This is *less work than providing shutter-glasses-based Bluray 3D support*, which it handles at 120hz and 1080p natively.



AYA....posts like this scare me. I imagine that every time I buy or watch a movie, or play a game with this projector I'll have to go down a mental checklist of 20 settings options and configurations for how to get the best picture. I'll end up spending 30 minutes testing out different modes and extra peripherals (Fury) before I can finally sit down...HRD 1, HDR 2, HDR 0??, SDR, Fury stripped SDR, Cinema, Bright Cinema, Natural, Fast mode, Fine Mode, Image Enhancement 1 - 5, FI low med high, manual aperture setting, dynamic aperture off, slow, fast....

I realize I'll be able to set and forget some of these depending on my preferences and room, but it still seems like various movies (sci-fi dark, fast action, slow action, 4k etc) will benefit from different settings. Then we get to gaming....It's all a little overwhelming. I already piss the family off when I check setting on my ps3 and LCD TV before watching a movie. 

--------

@gnolivos Those images are incredible! They're every bit as good as those posted from the "_projector that shall not be named_". Other than being AT, what are the specs of your screen material. Are the blacks really that dark in person, or is the iPhone zeroing out the dark areas of the image?


----------



## royboy365

Viche said:


> Direct TV has a 4K player or were you talking about the YouTube video?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming the sound is caused by whatever mechanism is used to shift the pixels back-and-forth rapidly.


My assumption too but I don't think it should so loud as to be distracting. With the number of owners saying they don't hear anything when it engages makes me question my unit.


----------



## gnolivos

Viche said:


> @gnolivos Those images are incredible! They're every bit as good as those posted from the "_projector that shall not be named_". Other than being AT, what are the specs of your screen material. Are the blacks really that dark in person, or is the iPhone zeroing out the dark areas of the image?




I guess the phone is compensating exposure and making blacks blacker. Fact is, on bright images like this the blacks appear inky deep black. 

On the fireworks video it's a very very dark shade of grey in my bat cave. Impressive deep blacks. Better than I expected. No complaints in that department at all.


----------



## Docj04

Hello all. I'll be ordering this projector on Monday, and will be joining ranks of this thread.
In the meantime, I have a somewhat general question with some specificity to this projector.

Ill be mounting this projector from ceiling in my basement and projecting from 14-15' away. I would REALLY like to go with a 135" screen, and wondered if this projector will be able to throw a 135" image from so close. Will I need to back down to a 120"? Say it ain't so.
Thanks!


----------



## jmalto

hoogs said:


> Didn't work, still only 4:2:0 at 60hz. I also tried 1440p and could only get 4:4:4 at 30hz. So it appears this projector cannot do 4:4:4 at 60hz.




Damn, I was all set to get this projector but I guess I will have to keep looking because 4:4:4 60hz looks much more clear to me than 4:2:0 (yes, I've had tvs that does both and compared) utilizing as gaming monitors.


----------



## terminal33

Here are some more pics from the snow monkeys video via YouTube and the Philips player. All pics are in Natural mode - image enhancement 5 - low lighting in living room - taken with Galaxy S7. 




























And if the others weren't close enough... Lol. 











Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

Docj04 said:


> Hello all. I'll be ordering this projector on Monday, and will be joining ranks of this thread.
> In the meantime, I have a somewhat general question with some specificity to this projector.
> 
> Ill be mounting this projector from ceiling in my basement and projecting from 14-15' away. I would REALLY like to go with a 135" screen, and wondered if this projector will be able to throw a 135" image from so close. Will I need to back down to a 120"? Say it ain't so.
> Thanks!


As per projectorcentral.com 13' 3" is minimum to get 135" diag. So you are good.


----------



## Docj04

aaranddeeman said:


> As per projectorcentral.com 13' 3" is minimum to get 135" diag. So you are good.


Fantastic. I do believe I've decided on the silver ticket gray. For about $380, I believe it'll be a cost effective choice for my low lit, but not blacked out basement. I'm also struggling between that and the cinegrey 5D ALR screen. Either way, the 5040 is getting ordered on Monday!!


----------



## Dws6

filter_sweep said:


> Thanks for the heads up... I know about that limitation but after some searching I found this active monoprice USB cable with good reviews (see link below). I'll know soon enough if it works!
> 
> 
> Cool. Certainly cheap enough to try before you fish to be sure. Let us know how it works.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Threefiddie

RLBURNSIDE said:


> For gaming, that would have made it a "must buy" projector instead of a "shrug" for PC gaming at least (console HDR gaming is perfect, they can't typically only manage 60hz at best, although next year the new Xbox One could probably easily do 120hz 1080p).


you're getting hz confused with fps. no console will ever do more than 60hz whether it's 30fps or 60. they can't even get over 30fps at 900p 60hz upscaled to 1080 on nearly 3/4 of current console games. it will be a long time until consoles support 120hz in which they would need a minimum of 120 fps locked when 95% of the tv's out there 60hz other than monitors which are true 20, 144, 180, and 240hz. especially when pc's still have hard time hitting 120 but for consoles the framerate must be locked instead of pc's ability to be variable.

yes pc is whole other story.


----------



## Savatage316

What do you guys feel in terms of screen differences? Any major quality jumps between them?


----------



## Viche

Someone needs to go set these boys straight:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...-hw45es-hw40es-successor-41.html#post46966985


----------



## Ronman79

Docj04 said:


> Fantastic. I do believe I've decided on the silver ticket gray. For about $380, I believe it'll be a cost effective choice for my low lit, but not blacked out basement. I'm also struggling between that and the cinegrey 5D ALR screen. Either way, the 5040 is getting ordered on Monday!!


Sup Doc (and everyone else too), 

I've been wondering about screen material types, and trying to figure what I should go with. I too am very interested in what seems to be well reviewed and high value materials from Elite Screens. 

My room will be matte blacked out ceiling and walls, with dark carpet and black furniture. However, I'll have family (wife, 4 small children) and friends up for a good bit of games, fights, video gaming, etc. 

I figured a white screen, and when I do have on some lighting, it can be the independently controlled, dimmable, rear recessed lighting (well away from the screen). My most critical viewing will be of batcaved movie nights, but with the other, should I consider the gray screens? 

Hope we both get some help! 


Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

terminal33 said:


> Here are some more pics from the snow monkeys video via YouTube and the Philips player. All pics are in Natural mode - image enhancement 5 - low lighting in living room - taken with Galaxy S7.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Beautiful wind and sunburned monkey faces! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

If anyone is Pc gaming with a 1080 and could help me with a few things it'd be greatly appreciated


----------



## gtgray

c.kingsley said:


> If you want to test this thoroughly, use CRU (custom resolution utility) to make a custom resolution for 4k x 2k and set your Hz to 59 or 61 then reboot. This will override the display's EDID. The only way to truly test a video display from a PC is to force the resolution upon it. Once you have that working, put up a chroma test pattern and take a picture of text on a red or magenta field. Here is an example of a display that is *not *passing 4:4:4 -- http://imgur.com/a/8nt9o
> 
> Notice how the text is smeared on the magenta color bar. When it is 4:4:4, the text in each bar will look completely legible.
> 
> If you use a DVI -> HDMI cable for this test, open the Nvidia Control Panel. Open Display -> Change Resolution. Once the override succeeds the connector type will display *Connector: DVI - PC Display*.
> 
> Nvidia drivers have a well documented problem with video display devices where they default to 4:2:0 at all resolutions when connected to video displays. They think you are plugged into a TV because that is what the EDID on the display told them.
> 
> If you have questions about this feel free to PM me and I can walk you through the process in greater detail.


This is really some outdated info. I have 2 4k Samsungs that do 4k60 444 with 950gtx. Yes, I have verified using those tests. If you have 1.4 HDMI GPU you will not get 4k60 444 only 420.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

terminal33 said:


> Here are some more pics from the snow monkeys video via YouTube and the Philips player. All pics are in Natural mode - image enhancement 5 - low lighting in living room - taken with Galaxy S7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if the others weren't close enough... Lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk




wow man just wow


----------



## NeO_Sk8eR

Pendraegon said:


> So I just tested this with an Xbox one s that I got today. Going straight from the Xbox to the projector it now says that I can play hdr, looking at 4k details it says that it supports hdr but not 10 bit. I put in a blu-ray however (lego movie uhd) and got a popup that hdr isn't supported. Is anyone else having issues? Also the Netflix app isn't going above 1080p even though I'm getting 60mbps down


That's a shame :/ do you plan on getting Forza Horizon 3?
Wonder if HDR will work in games


----------



## Kelvin1000

Here are some standard 1080p pics taken during the day with ambient light coming from all over. 
Out of the box Bright Cinema mode without any calibration or adjustments:







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

Some other pics from YouTube 4K streaming:









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## flyinmunky99

Feel like I'm the only one not getting along with this projector. Its crazy as the reviews are great and user feedback is very positive but I cant get settled with the image. 

I know its LCD and my previous projector was LCD but I don't know if its motion or how the image is processed but the motion feels a step back to me. I find the Enhancements although make the image appear sharper bring artefacts after preset 2. 1 Seems the best but about as sharp as my previous Epson on Super resolution 1/2. I Find the auto Iris noisy and distracting.

Perhaps the native contrast is so similar to my old Epson tw5500 I'm not seeing any benefits. If this was my first projector I'm sure I would be happy.


----------



## shepdog

flyinmunky99 said:


> .....,,,,,,,,I'm sure I would be happy.




To me this is what is important. 

Are you happy?

Just because a ton of people like it is irrelevant if you don't. It doesn't really matter why. 

I play guitar and everyone loves Gibson. They make great guitars but my favorite is still a strat. I like the way they look and feel. It just makes me smile. 

That is hard to quantify.


----------



## c.kingsley

gtgray said:


> This is really some outdated info. I have 2 4k Samsungs that do 4k60 444 with 950gtx. Yes, I have verified using those tests. If you have 1.4 HDMI GPU you will not get 4k60 444 only 420.


The info is so outdated that it still happens on the latest GTX 1070/80 at a mere 1080p.  It depends on what is in the EDID.


----------



## Ken30NYC

Viche said:


> How would you describe the difference in image quality between PC games at 4:4:4 and 4:2:0?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't get it. Are you saying that with slow moving movies, you turn on fauxK + FI, but in fast action movies, you switch to fast mode which disables everything? I keep hearing that upscaling 1080 p movies on this projector looks great. If you're turning that feature off, then doesn't that make the 5040 just a slightly brighter 5030 with a mechanical lens?
> 
> 
> 
> AYA....posts like this scare me. I imagine that every time I buy or watch a movie, or play a game with this projector I'll have to go down a mental checklist of 20 settings options and configurations for how to get the best picture. I'll end up spending 30 minutes testing out different modes and extra peripherals (Fury) before I can finally sit down...HRD 1, HDR 2, HDR 0??, SDR, Fury stripped SDR, Cinema, Bright Cinema, Natural, Fast mode, Fine Mode, Image Enhancement 1 - 5, FI low med high, manual aperture setting, dynamic aperture off, slow, fast....
> 
> I realize I'll be able to set and forget some of these depending on my preferences and room, but it still seems like various movies (sci-fi dark, fast action, slow action, 4k etc) will benefit from different settings. Then we get to gaming....It's all a little overwhelming. I already piss the family off when I check setting on my ps3 and LCD TV before watching a movie.
> 
> --------
> 
> @gnolivos Those images are incredible! They're every bit as good as those posted from the "_projector that shall not be named_". Other than being AT, what are the specs of your screen material. Are the blacks really that dark in person, or is the iPhone zeroing out the dark areas of the image?



Yeah unfortunately it seems you can't just "set it and forget it" and get optimal quality from all sources. I still think the projector is wonderful, hands down better in every way than my old Panasonic 8000. As you can see from the pics of those YouTube 4K videos, the picture is superb. Super sharp, high resolution, with deep color. 

The problem for me and seemingly a few others is 1080 24p fast action Blu Rays. With all the enhancements on its headache inducing.  And it's not so much that the subjects on screen are moving fast, it's not a blur that's the problem. It's more when the actual camera is moving too fast, keeps shaking back and forth to create a chaotic effect. I guess FI is supposed to alleviate this but it doesn't. It just can't put in enough missing frames to make it really smooth. 

A lot of it comes down to how the movie was filmed. CA: Civil War and Heart of the Sea are so far the only movies I've had to turn off the enhancements. Batman vs Superman, a Life of Pi, Pacific Rim, Enchanted Kingdom were all fine. I'm gonna do Transformers and Mad Max later so I'll see how that fares out. If nothing else I'm getting a life lesson in cinematography lol.

As far as gaming I've had no issues. I guess the fact that everything is 60hz makes the difference. Even with enhancements on I notice no lag. My simple test for lag is this..... I set up one of my driving games with in cockpit view of the steering wheel. Then I turn my Fanatec wheel back and forth as fast as I can and see how well the on screen wheel keeps up. I'll tell you it's near 1:1 even on 4K so that's pretty great. 

And yes the blacks are that black . Those YouTube 4K videos are so far the best I've ever seen. That gives high hope for the steaming potential of the future.


----------



## Black Banshee

*6040 release date?*

Apologies if this is elsewhere in this increasingly lengthy thread. 

When is the 6040 model becoming available to purchase?


----------



## shepdog

Black Banshee said:


> Apologies if this is elsewhere in this increasingly lengthy thread.
> 
> 
> 
> When is the 6040 model becoming available to purchase?




Already available in Austin at some places and in dallas.


----------



## Black Banshee

Thanks, after some research it appears the 6040 needs to be purchased only at authorized Epson dealers? What dealers in Texas are offering it (I'm in Colorado)?


----------



## Viche

Ken30NYC said:


> Yeah unfortunately it seems you can't just "set it and forget it" and get optimal quality from all sources. I still think the projector is wonderful, hands down better in every way than my old Panasonic 8000. As you can see from the pics of those YouTube 4K videos, the picture is superb. Super sharp, high resolution, with deep color.
> 
> The problem for me and seemingly a few others is 1080 24p fast action Blu Rays. With all the enhancements on its headache inducing. And it's not so much that the subjects on screen are moving fast, it's not a blur that's the problem. It's more when the actual camera is moving too fast, keeps shaking back and forth to create a chaotic effect. I guess FI is supposed to alleviate this but it doesn't. It just can't put in enough missing frames to make it really smooth.
> 
> A lot of it comes down to how the movie was filmed. CA: Civil War and Heart of the Sea are so far the only movies I've had to turn off the enhancements. Batman vs Superman, a Life of Pi, Pacific Rim, Enchanted Kingdom were all fine. I'm gonna do Transformers and Mad Max later so I'll see how that fares out. If nothing else I'm getting a life lesson in cinematography lol.
> 
> As far as gaming I've had no issues. I guess the fact that everything is 60hz makes the difference. Even with enhancements on I notice no lag. My simple test for lag is this..... I set up one of my driving games with in cockpit view of the steering wheel. Then I turn my Fanatec wheel back and forth as fast as I can and see how well the on screen wheel keeps up. I'll tell you it's near 1:1 even on 4K so that's pretty great.
> 
> And yes the blacks are that black . Those YouTube 4K videos are so far the best I've ever seen. That gives high hope for the steaming potential of the future.


Thanks for the reply. You and anyone else who has issues with the motion in some movies should keep posting your experiences with various movies and settings. Never having seen the projector, I'd have to guess that image enhancement would cause issues with motion because the edge enhancement would be super obvious when things were still, but then struggle to keep up when things moved...so I would think you'd end up with almost a strobing effect between overly sharp/contrasty and somewhat blurry/muted images. Does it look anything like that?

So you don't notice the 4:2:0 in videogames? Blurry text, etc?

Is input lag low even with frame interpolation on? I had hoped that FI on high on 60hz videogames would reduce LCD motion blur.


----------



## gnolivos

What I experienced was explained earlier. It wasn't really blur. And FI was OFF for sure.


----------



## shepdog

I think this is very interesting. 

This player may be able to keep 2020 color but convert down to sdr without the added cost of a hdfury. 



BakeApples said:


> Got a response from Oppo. Although not a definite answer to our question, it sounds promising
> _
> "Yes, we anticipate the player being able to strip the HDR from the signal so that you can still take advantage of the increased color gamut provided by HDR. But we will not know the full specifications until the player is actually released."
> 
> _If they can offer us this, i will gladly hand over my money as soon as the player hits the market.


----------



## Ken30NYC

Viche said:


> Thanks for the reply. You and anyone else who has issues with the motion in some movies should keep posting your experiences with various movies and settings. Never having seen the projector, I'd have to guess that image enhancement would cause issues with motion because the edge enhancement would be super obvious when things were still, but then struggle to keep up when things moved...so I would think you'd end up with almost a strobing effect between overly sharp/contrasty and somewhat blurry/muted images. Does it look anything like that?
> 
> So you don't notice the 4:2:0 in videogames? Blurry text, etc?
> 
> Is input lag low even with frame interpolation on? I had hoped that FI on high on 60hz videogames would reduce LCD motion blur.


Yeah I know a few guys described it as a blur but it doesn't feel like that to me. I read someone else had captured the screen with a 120 FPS camera and said he could find no blur when he analyzed it frame by frame. I'd agree with your words that it feels more like a strobing. I was first calling it a shuttering effect. Like the processing couldn't keep up with what was going on.

Text is razor sharp on my PC. FI isn't available when I'm on PC. I think it's only available for 24p content. So for sure FI is designed to combat just the problem I'm having. I guess shaky cameras is just a little beyond what it can do. And I'm not getting any motion blur while gaming. I remember the old LCD's you would get ghosting but I'm not seeing any of that.


I just watched most of Transformers Dark of the Moon in 3D and I fully expected it to be a bloody mess motion wise. But to my surprise it looked really good even with enhancements on and FI on normal/high. Even when there's 14 robots on screen shooting each other, as long as the camera is stationary or maintains a nice smooth pan everything looks great. Even with the usual Michael Bay carnage he manages to keep nice smooth camera movements.

I experimented with various levels of FI on and off. Its weird when there's people on screen with high FI it gets that soap opery effect. I guess because we see people every day in real life and know how they move so when it looks too smooth it just feels off. But when it's the robots on screen, holy cow the FI really makes it buttery smooth. I replayed one scene of Bumblebee transforming on different levels of FI and it looked best on high. But when you get back to the people it just looks weird again. 

It is a bit overwhelming with all the settings trying to juggle gaming, 4K, 4K HDR, 1080 to 4K upscaled, 1080P 3D etc. I don't envy you having to explain to the wife and kids that dad needs 20 minutes prep time before movie night


----------



## gnolivos

Strobing sounds right. It is noticeable only on high contrast scenes with fast actions. To me anyway. I'm convinced it is an optical illusion of sorts. I was the one analyzing the frames from high speed capture, and there is no strobe, ghosting, or blurring to speak of.


----------



## gnolivos

Anyone test the Blanking option? I think it is pointless. Supposedly this is for people with CIH screens wanting to remove the 'black' bars spill top and bottom. However based on my testing all it does is assign 'black' pixel color to those regions. It makes no difference because those bars are already black. 

It would make more sense if it actually masked the regions entirely by physically restricting light, or similar. But I never expected it to be able to do that. So, is it pointless?


----------



## sunnyvali

Ken30NYC said:


> It is a bit overwhelming with all the settings trying to juggle gaming, 4K, 4K HDR, 1080 to 4K upscaled, 1080P 3D etc. I don't envy you having to explain to the wife and kids that dad needs 20 minutes prep time before movie night


My wife thinks I over engineer everything and this projector is no different. She can't turn the projector on and set it up for optimum viewing if I am not around. I have decided to leave HDR off for now so kids can watch when I am out of town. 

I think HDFury Integral may be an option for me. This way I don't have to change much on the projector and get the best picture and color.


----------



## Waikis

Hi folks,

Since HDR 4k60 is not possible with this HDMI chipset, would it be possible to run HDR @1080p60 4:4:4? Do I need HDFURY to downsample the UHD HDR signal to 1080p HDR?


----------



## c.kingsley

Waikis said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> Since HDR 4k60 is not possible with this HDMI chipset, would it be possible to run HDR @*1080p60* 4:4:4? Do I need HDFURY to downsample the UHD HDR signal to 1080p HDR?


For UHD movies the resolution is 4k24p 4:2:2 which is within the signal limits of the chipset. The HDFury people keep discussing is for removing HDR while retaining WCG of the UHD presentation. There is an unconfirmed rumor that the forthcoming Oppo player will have the capability as well.


----------



## shepdog

c.kingsley said:


> For UHD movies the resolution is 4k24p 4:2:2 which is within the signal limits of the chipset. The HDFury people keep discussing is for removing HDR while retaining WCG of the UHD presentation. There is an unconfirmed rumor that the forthcoming Oppo player will have the capability as well.




See this. Looks like the OPPO could be the perfect player for this projector 



anmg said:


> I sent an email request to Oppo and received this response:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jared,
> 
> 
> 
> Our anticipation is that we can convert HDR to SDR at BT2020 instead of REC709.
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> 
> 
> Customer Service
> 
> OPPO Digital, Inc.
> 
> 162 Constitution Dr.
> 
> Menlo Park, CA 94025
> 
> [email protected]


----------



## c.kingsley

shepdog said:


> See this. Looks like the OPPO could be the perfect player for this projector


Awesome! This will be_ *the*_ player to get for every 4k projector this generation as there are complaints in every thread about HDR being too dim.


----------



## canillo

Waikis said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> Since HDR 4k60 is not possible with this HDMI chipset, would it be possible to run HDR @1080p60 4:4:4? Do I need HDFURY to downsample the UHD HDR signal to 1080p HDR?


The HD Fury is a miracle worker my friend.....It will allow you to do what ever you want with it, up scale and down scale.


----------



## Rodrigo Ventura Rosenblut

anybody knows a good solid wall mount for the epson 5040ub?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Rodrigo Ventura Rosenblut said:


> anybody knows a good solid wall mount for the epson 5040ub?


I think Peerless PRG-EXA can work as wall mount as well.


----------



## gnolivos

Had to share this gem. Especially towards the end


----------



## BrianBuda

Rodrigo Ventura Rosenblut said:


> anybody knows a good solid wall mount for the epson 5040ub?


I purchased a Peerless PPA-W wall mount and it works great for the 5040UB


----------



## Kelvin1000

Rodrigo Ventura Rosenblut said:


> anybody knows a good solid wall mount for the epson 5040ub?



His one is excellent and a bit more sturdy than the Peerless:

https://www.amazon.com/Chief-RPAU-Universal-Projector-Ceiling/dp/B000BVOP6I


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jackattack51

Waikis said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> Since HDR 4k60 is not possible with this HDMI chipset, would it be possible to run HDR @1080p60 4:4:4? Do I need HDFURY to downsample the UHD HDR signal to 1080p HDR?


I just wanted to chime in and mention that I don't believe this statement is completely true. Based on images, such as the one attached to this post, the 5040 does accept and display 4k @ 60. What I don't believe the chipset supports is that resolution and frame rate with anything better than 8bit 4:2:0. I also believe that dropping the projector to 30hz allows for a higher bit depth and subsampling but I am not sure of the valid combinations.


----------



## hoogs

Jackattack51 said:


> I just wanted to chime in and mention that I don't believe this statement is completely true. Based on images, such as the one attached to this post, the 5040 does accept and display 4k @ 60. What I don't believe the chipset supports is that resolution and frame rate with anything better than 8bit 4:2:0. I also believe that dropping the projector to 30hz allows for a higher bit depth and subsampling but I am not sure of the valid combinations.


I'll check 1080 tonight, but here is what I can output from my GTX 1080:

[email protected] 8bit 4:2:0
[email protected] 8bit 4:4:4
[email protected] 8bit 4:2:0
[email protected] 8bit 4:4:4
[email protected] (I'll check chroma tonight but I wanted to confirm you cannot use 120hz)


----------



## jbarteli

Do you have your unit yet? I to have a VW95 and really want to know how great the upgrade would be.



RiZLa_7 said:


> Sounds like you had a real good "a-haaaaa-a" experience  !
> 
> What were your previous projector(s?) and other experiences?
> I don´t know what to expect coming from a Sony VPL-VW95ES.
> I have the 5040 in pre order and getting it within about 2 weeks.


----------



## gnolivos

I continue to be troubled by the motion handling of this projector under 24p mode (Blurays, for example). What I see can be described as a STROBING effect of sorts, as another member here put it. To be clear, I don't see any significant judder, the pannings are smooth and not 'jerky' -- however there is a strobing effect on very bright areas of the screen when there is panning or fast action, most especially pronounced on high contrasting areas of the screen. I see no issue with other modes such as 60 fps.

I wonder if the 5040 processes 1080p/24p signal at 24Hz? I think the Sanyo Z2000 that I have processes at 48Hz, and virtually no significant strobing or flicker to speak of. My *theory* is 24Hz would produce a flicker effect on bright areas when it goes from one frame to the next, whereas perhaps 48Hz reduces the effect considerably.

I have a scene from Transformers Bluray (2007) identified that clearly shows this problem. I will post the exact time of that scene later tonight for others to test.

One question I have: This is my first my first Epson projector... is the motion handling any different than the 5030? I don't think I read any complaints in the past about the previous model, so makes me wonder. Is there anyone here that owns both can comment?


----------



## SALadder22FF

c.kingsley said:


> Awesome! This will be_ *the*_ player to get for every 4k projector this generation as there are complaints in every thread about HDR being too dim.


Would you be able to explain this to me as a a beginner or guide me in the right direction for research...im getting a little lost woth all the 4.4.4 etc talk. Obviously I want the best picture for the $3k projector but I want to know the reasoning. Thanks so much..hope to Have mine before the Holidays.


----------



## Waikis

Jackattack51 said:


> I just wanted to chime in and mention that I don't believe this statement is true.


Apologies, what I meant was 4k 60 with 444 chroma.
So far with my PC, the only way for HDR to work is to use nvidias demo. But that forces my resolution to 4k 420 24hz.

What I want to find out is whether it is possible to keep the HDR metadata with the fury (or any other way) and output it at 1080p 444 60hz.

As side note, the projector doesnt seem to be receptive to custom resolutions. I tried [email protected] plus a bunch of other resolutions and it was a no go. So no ultra wide gaming.


----------



## Docj04

aaranddeeman said:


> As per projectorcentral.com 13' 3" is minimum to get 135" diag. So you are good.


I was just playing around with the PJ central calculator and saw that at a 15' throw, the zoom will need to be set at 1.84 of the maximum 2.10 on a 135" screen. vs. 1.65 zoom on a 120" screen at 15'.

Will my image quality suffer in general by having the zoom that high?


----------



## hoogs

Confirmed that 1080p works 4:4:4 @60hz and also you can select 8bit or 12bit.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Docj04 said:


> I was just playing around with the PJ central calculator and saw that at a 15' throw, the zoom will need to be set at 1.84 of the maximum 2.10 on a 135" screen. vs. 1.65 zoom on a 120" screen at 15'.
> 
> Will my image quality suffer in general by having the zoom that high?


It's the lumens that get impacted, not image quality IMO.


----------



## Docj04

Making sure that I understand--the wider the zoom, the dimmer the image?
If that's the case, would a higher gain screen such as the cinegrey 5D ALR screen that I'm leaning towards offset the lower lumens? 

It's rated at 1.5 gain, but may test a little lower than that...


----------



## aaranddeeman

Docj04 said:


> Making sure that I understand--the wider the zoom, the dimmer the image?
> If that's the case, would a higher gain screen such as the cinegrey 5D ALR screen that I'm leaning towards offset the lower lumens?
> 
> It's rated at 1.5 gain, but may test a little lower than that...


Remember though that high gain screen has it's own set of issues..


----------



## Jackattack51

hoogs said:


> I'll check 1080 tonight, but here is what I can output from my GTX 1080:
> 
> [email protected] 8bit 4:2:0
> [email protected] 8bit 4:4:4
> [email protected] 8bit 4:2:0
> [email protected] 8bit 4:4:4
> [email protected] (I'll check chroma tonight but I wanted to confirm you cannot use 120hz)


Thanks for the great info Hoogs. Did you verify that even though the PC was outputting those settings, that the projector was properly receiving and displaying them in its info screen?


----------



## hoogs

Full list in one spot for reference and yes I confirmed in the projector menu for all of these:

[email protected] 8bit 4:2:0
[email protected] 8bit 4:4:4
[email protected] 8bit 4:2:0
[email protected] 8bit 4:4:4
[email protected] 8bit or 12bit 4:4:4


----------



## frenzy987

Hoogs, would love to see some 4K/60 shots of PC games if you get a chance.


----------



## Threefiddie

suckkkkkkkks. although i wouldn't use it for pc gaming as I use the oculus rift and a curved 1440p ultrawide monitor... the fact it won't do 4:4:4 at 4k/60 is such a bummer....but yet it's not a 4k projector sooooo... can't have it all...but big time eww at 4k/30hz...desktop use at 30hz even would drive me insane.


----------



## JRD57

sunnyvali said:


> My wife thinks I over engineer everything and this projector is no different. She can't turn the projector on and set it up for optimum viewing if I am not around. I have decided to leave HDR off for now so kids can watch when I am out of town.
> 
> I think HDFury Integral may be an option for me. This way I don't have to change much on the projector and get the best picture and color.


This sounds like a major headache. Would the 6040 that _includes ISF-certified calibration tools and
lockable memory modes to ensure accurate performance _ eliminate having to repeat all these set-up routines?


----------



## Waikis

Threefiddie said:


> suckkkkkkkks. although i wouldn't use it for pc gaming as I use the oculus rift and a curved 1440p ultrawide monitor... the fact it won't do 4:4:4 at 4k/60 is such a bummer....but yet it's not a 4k projector sooooo... can't have it all...but big time eww at 4k/30hz...desktop use at 30hz even would drive me insane.


I game on 3440x1440 monitor as well, but I find the image quality on this projector to be far better than my monitor even with the 4:2:0 chroma. The colour accuracy / uniformity alone ****s all over monitors.

The e-shift also works well and brings in a lot of additional details in the game:

1080p 4k Enhancement On 4:4:4 vs 4k 4:2:0 (Image enhancement 2 for both)



















You can see the shirt folds in the 4k shot but not in the 1080p shot.
The 4k picture is also a lot cleaner with less aliasing (see the staff for example).


----------



## Threefiddie

Waikis said:


> I game on 3440x1440 monitor as well, but I find the image quality on this projector to be far better than my monitor even with the 4:2:0 chroma. The colour accuracy / uniformity alone ****s all over monitors.


yeah going to majorly disagree there by a country bumpkin mile. Comparing a projector to a curved ultrawide 1440p color accurate before even slightest calibration or even any ips monitor can't be touched by a fake 4k projector in both color production and overall image quality(especially image quality) spread across a giant screen. I'm all for a projectors but you're not going to beat ips (with minimal ips glow) monitor.


----------



## Waikis

Threefiddie said:


> yeah going to majorly disagree there by a country bumpkin mile. Comparing a projector to a curved ultrawide 1440p color accurate before even slightest calibration or even any ips monitor can't be touched by a fake 4k projector in both color production and overall image quality(especially image quality) spread across a giant screen. I'm all for a projectors but you're not going to beat ips (with minimal ips glow) monitor.


Unless you are willing to shell out for Eizo monitors, monitors are generally pretty subpar in terms of uniformity in my experience. Even my VA ultra-wide can be a bit lacking. 

Anyway, we are getting off topic here. The main reason why I posted those comparisons is to show potential buyers that while the lack of 4:4:4 for 4k60 is no doubt disappointing, the rest of the projectors ability (4k input, image quality etc) far outweigh that one flaw. I would still choose 4k 4:2:0 over 1080p 4:4:4.


----------



## Threefiddie

Waikis said:


> Unless you are willing to shell out for Eizo monitors, monitors are generally pretty subpar in terms of uniformity in my experience. Even my VA ultra-wide can be a bit lacking.


because va panels aren't exactly known for their awesomeness... they pale in comparison to ips. 

but yeah back on topic


----------



## ac388

hoogs said:


> Full list in one spot for reference and yes I confirmed in the projector menu for all of these:
> 
> [email protected] 8bit 4:2:0
> [email protected] 8bit 4:4:4
> [email protected] 8bit 4:2:0
> [email protected] 8bit 4:4:4
> [email protected] 8bit or 12bit 4:4:4


To achieve all these figures, does HDMI cable with a speed of 10.2 Gbps or 18Gbps matter ???
Thanks.


----------



## hoogs

frenzy987 said:


> Hoogs, would love to see some 4K/60 shots of PC games if you get a chance.


I can try, I only have the iphone 6 though so it may not look great.


----------



## Mike Garrett

6040's arriving this week.


----------



## Docj04

FWIW, I've always abided by the notion that hardwired is always better than wireless. I'm sure most would still agree with that.
That said, is anyone succesfully using the wireless capabilities to stream video/Directv/etc. It would make a HUGE impact on my flexibility for setup--especially for the immediate future.

Thanks.


----------



## royboy365

Docj04 said:


> I was just playing around with the PJ central calculator and saw that at a 15' throw, the zoom will need to be set at 1.84 of the maximum 2.10 on a 135" screen. vs. 1.65 zoom on a 120" screen at 15'.
> 
> Will my image quality suffer in general by having the zoom that high?


The only thing that changes is brightness and doesn't affect PQ. 

Projector Reviews had this to say about a pre-production model:

"Changing from wide angle to full telephoto produces a lot more drop off in brightness – Reduces brightness byjust over 31%.

This, folks is another indicator of improved optics design compared to the older 5030UB’s lens. That lens lost over 40% going from full wide angle to telephoto."


----------



## Dws6

So it makes sense then to setup and mount the project "near" its full wide angle setting and tweak from there to fit your intended screen size? I am ordering a 6040 for my first projector so still learning best practices. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Docj04

Interesting take, because I've been hearing mixed opinions on whether image quality is reduced with a bigger picture. Most I have read agress that with all else being equal(throw distance, PJ, Screen type), a smaller screen and image will be better.


----------



## gnolivos

I believe wide zoom gives you more brightness, but the opposite end gives you more contrast. So I normally go for the contrast assuming you have enough brightness.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Any 5040 owners in Washington DC area that are gracious to show a short demo of the PJ, please PM me.
Really appreciate your help.


----------



## kg505

Just ordered my 5040 and I'm now looking at what HDMI cables to buy. Does anyone have any good recommendations for a 12-15 ft cable that have had success getting HDR to work with?

Thanks


----------



## aaranddeeman

kg505 said:


> Just ordered my 5040 and I'm now looking at what HDMI cables to buy. Does anyone have any good recommendations for a 12-15 ft cable that have had success getting HDR to work with?
> 
> Thanks


Go for monoprice certified premium cable.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> I believe wide zoom gives you more brightness, but the opposite end gives you more contrast. So I normally go for the contrast assuming you have enough brightness.


So wide is shorter throw and tele is longer? or is it other way around?


----------



## Dws6

Wider would be to display a wider "bigger" image when positioning the projector closer to the screen. Telephoto would allow you to put the projector back further and "zoom" in to your screen size so in theory smaller image. 
Easiest way to think about it is if you were to leave the zoom alone the image would get bigger as you move the projector away from the screen and get smaller as you move it closer. You have to go wider as you move it in and zoom in as you move away. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dws6

So brighter in wider makes sense to me as your projector would typically be closer to the screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mike Garrett

gnolivos said:


> I believe wide zoom gives you more brightness, but the opposite end gives you more contrast. So I normally go for the contrast assuming you have enough brightness.


If you plan on doing much HDR in the next year, better go for brightness. Also if you want to improve your image the most, work on the room. This is assuming you do not already have a black pit.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dws6 said:


> So brighter in wider makes sense to me as your projector would typically be closer to the screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Gotcha. Thanks..


----------



## mguest

Is there a consensus on the best UHD player to pair with the 5040?


----------



## Hawkmarket

Mike Garrett said:


> If you plan on doing much HDR in the next year, better go for brightness. Also if you want to improve your image the most, work on the room. This is assuming you do not already have a black pit.




What's the FL threshold that HDR is actually being experienced as intended? From everything I'm reading the vast majority of projectors just don't have enough light to get the desired image that HDR can provide.


----------



## DanGraney

mguest said:


> Is there a consensus on the best UHD player to pair with the 5040?




I'm waiting on the Oppo, fwiw


----------



## gnolivos

mguest said:


> Is there a consensus on the best UHD player to pair with the 5040?




I think right now the Philips 4K UhD bluray player.

For streaming the roku 4 is my choice. But new ones are out in 2 weeks with support for HDR.


----------



## jbarteli

Will this be a big upgrade coming from the Sony-VW95?


----------



## Kelvin1000

Some good 4K content YouTube to test out or new projectors:


----------



## Mike Garrett

Hawkmarket said:


> What's the FL threshold that HDR is actually being experienced as intended? From everything I'm reading the vast majority of projectors just don't have enough light to get the desired image that HDR can provide.


It is not being fully experienced by any HT projector owner as of right now and it may never work as fully intended. Have seen many JVC and Sony owners that are happy with HDR. Several more would be happy with it if JVC allowed the dynamic iris to work, even if it was only on for fades to black.


----------



## Mike Garrett

mguest said:


> Is there a consensus on the best UHD player to pair with the 5040?


Right now the best UHD player is the Panny, but I expect the Oppo to be very good, if not better and the oppo will be cheaper. Preorders are being taken for oppo right now.


----------



## Mike Garrett

DanGraney said:


> I'm waiting on the Oppo, fwiw


Same here.


----------



## Gates

Mike Garrett said:


> Right now the best UHD player is the Panny, but I expect the Oppo to be very good, if not better and the oppo will be cheaper. Preorders are being taken for oppo right now.




No preorders for OPPO yet, just e-mail notifications for product info.


----------



## dvdwilly3

I would to ask if there is any 5040/6040 owner who may have Star Trek Into Darkness in UHD?

If there is, can you take a screen shot of time stamp 6 min. 13 sec. and 8 min. 06 sec. and post them, please?

PioManiac did those screen shots of those on his JVC projector on another thread and I would like some basis of comparison between the current JVC series and the Epson.

Yeah, yeah, yeah...I know that screen shots cannot be relied on because of...take your pick...cell phone contrast correction and any number of other issues related to brightness, color balance, contrast, etc.

What that comparison could tell me is the ability to resolve fine detail.

I can tell you that the ability to resove detail even in PioManiac's cell phone shots is quite clearly better than my Sony VPL-VW50...and it puts up a very good 1080p image. It is not even close.

But, I am looking to replace the Sony and I need a common point of reference for comparison between the JVC and Epson series. Hence, the request.

I as well as others have been trying to find a place that we can demo either of these, let alone both together, and I can tell you that it ain't happening anytime soon! Not in our area (northern Virginia).

Thanks!


----------



## gnolivos

Anyone with a 2016 Honda Accord? Can you drive down the interstate at 65mph and take a picture out the passenger window? I am trying to decide if my wife would like this car to replace her 2012 VW beetle.


----------



## gnolivos

Today Epson support looked up the specs on their tech manual and has confirmed to me that 24p signals are displayed at 10:10 pull down. Doesn't that equate to 240hz? I didn't think this projector could do 240hz. 

Anyway, I have my doubts on whether it is doing a proper 10:10 pull down on 24hz input. To me it feels like 1:1 or 2:2 at best. I see strobes ...


----------



## aaranddeeman

Mike Garrett said:


> Right now the best UHD player is the Panny, but I expect the Oppo to be very good, if not better and the oppo will be cheaper. *Preorders are being taken for oppo right now*.


Wow really!
The full specs are not even out. Or did they?


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> Anyone with a 2016 Honda Accord? Can you drive down the interstate at 65mph and take a picture out the passenger window? I am trying to decide if my wife would like this car to replace her 2012 VW beetle.


That's a bit harsh.
He is genuinely requesting something specific that is doable and that too because none available to be demoed around..


----------



## gnolivos

aaranddeeman said:


> That's a bit harsh.
> 
> He is genuinely requesting something specific that is doable and that too because none available to be demoed around..




Oh just a bit of humor. If I had the movie I would capture it for him no problem.


----------



## Mike Garrett

aaranddeeman said:


> Wow really!
> The full specs are not even out. Or did they?


That is why I said, "I expect" rather than saying it will be better.


----------



## Kelvin1000

dvdwilly3 said:


> I would to ask if there is any 5040/6040 owner who may have Star Trek Into Darkness in UHD?
> 
> 
> 
> If there is, can you take a screen shot of time stamp 6 min. 13 sec. and 8 min. 06 sec. and post them, please?
> 
> 
> 
> PioManiac did those screen shots of those on his JVC projector on another thread and I would like some basis of comparison between the current JVC series and the Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, yeah, yeah...I know that screen shots cannot be relied on because of...take your pick...cell phone contrast correction and any number of other issues related to brightness, color balance, contrast, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> What that comparison could tell me is the ability to resolve fine detail.
> 
> 
> 
> I can tell you that the ability to resove detail even in PioManiac's cell phone shots is quite clearly better than my Sony VPL-VW50...and it puts up a very good 1080p image. It is not even close.
> 
> 
> 
> But, I am looking to replace the Sony and I need a common point of reference for comparison between the JVC and Epson series. Hence, the request.
> 
> 
> 
> I as well as others have been trying to find a place that we can demo either of these, let alone both together, and I can tell you that it ain't happening anytime soon! Not in our area (northern Virginia).
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I don't have the blacked out killer setup that PioManiac has (my room is anything but ideal) and I haven't calibrated my 5040 so these pics are box stock but they can give you an idea:

Here are some standard 1080p pics taken during the day with ambient light coming from all over. 
Out of the box Bright Cinema mode without any calibration or adjustments:







Some other pics from YouTube 4K streaming:








A couple of standard 1080p pics with out of the box settings and some ambient light:




Samsung K8500 playing 4K without HDR

Epson 5040 not calibrated

Bright Cinema mode with no adjustments

Living room with some ambient light

Photos taken with an iPhone 6 Plus


----------



## PioManiac

Kelvin1000 said:


> I don't have the blacked out killer setup that PioManiac has (my room is anything but ideal) and I haven't calibrated my 5040 so these pics are box stock but they can give you an idea:



...Projected on a $5000 Black Diamond screen


----------



## aaranddeeman

^^^ I am loving this PJ, for the performance it exhibiting for it's price point.
Only not sure of about the 18Gbps/10.2Gbps issue. I know it matters only to gaming and may be to HTPC. I don't do either.


----------



## Josuah

I captured the Epson 5040UB EDID and also performed some experiments with different signals. From what I can tell, the Epson is limited to 300MHz 4Kp30 YCrCb 4:2:0 10-bit. Any attempt to feed it something higher will fail. Higher options are also marked as non-native in the EDID.

4K streaming sources need 4Kp60 4:2:0 10-bit advertised to trigger 4K HDR playback. Which requires 375MHz if I remember correctly. And so it isn't working.


----------



## shepdog

Josuah said:


> I captured the Epson 5040UB EDID and also performed some experiments with different signals. From what I can tell, the Epson is limited to 300MHz 4Kp30 YCrCb 4:2:0 10-bit. Any attempt to feed it something higher will fail. Higher options are also marked as non-native in the EDID.
> 
> 
> 
> 4K streaming sources need 4Kp60 4:2:0 10-bit advertised to trigger 4K HDR playback. Which requires 375MHz if I remember correctly. And so it isn't working.




Interesting. 
I hope the HDR >SDR works in the new OPPO player


----------



## Snoogleheimer

piomaniac said:


> ...projected on a $5000 black diamond screen


lmao!


----------



## Kelvin1000

PioManiac said:


> ...Projected on a $5000 Black Diamond screen



Actually, a $3,350 screen with ambient light present but come on now PioManic...

You know damn well that there is "no replacement for the basement" especially with blacked out walls, floors and ceilings!

I have no doubt that if I had your setup (and with some actual calibration which I know you have done) that the Epson would project an even better picture than what I am getting now.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Kelvin1000 said:


> Actually, a $3,350 screen with ambient light present but come on now PioManic...
> 
> You know damn well that there is "no replacement for the basement" especially with blacked out walls, floors and ceilings!
> 
> I have no doubt that under your conditions (and with some actual calibration which I know you have done) that the Epson would project an even better picture than what I am getting now.


I agree. For best picture quality, a fully blacked out room and a low gain white screen. Isn't amazing the picture quality you can get these days for less than 3K.


----------



## gnolivos

Josuah said:


> I captured the Epson 5040UB EDID and also performed some experiments with different signals. From what I can tell, the Epson is limited to 300MHz 4Kp30 YCrCb 4:2:0 10-bit. Any attempt to feed it something higher will fail. Higher options are also marked as non-native in the EDID.
> 
> 
> 
> 4K streaming sources need 4Kp60 4:2:0 10-bit advertised to trigger 4K HDR playback. Which requires 375MHz if I remember correctly. And so it isn't working.




Do you have a way to test what the refresh rate the projector uses when fed 1080p / 24p (from Blu-ray)?


----------



## Josuah

gnolivos said:


> Do you have a way to test what the refresh rate the projector uses when fed 1080p / 24p (from Blu-ray)?


Sorry, I don't have a good way to test the actual refresh rate right now.


----------



## brianlvi3

*How about the UBE wireless?*

Hey guys,

Maybe I missed it as I just started going through many pages of this great thread. I just do not see anything about the wireless option, the UBE version?

Anyone at all have anything to report on it, from first hand experience or a review?

Thanks.

Brian


----------



## Kelvin1000

PioManiac said:


> Correction, a $4900 retail screen (at BestBuy.com) that "you" paid $3350 for.
> 
> in the interest of full disclosure, it *was *the only detail you left off when telling dvdwilly3 *exactly *what you were showing him.
> 
> 
> 
> LOL! now you know what I went through,
> 
> 
> 
> Everyone was pretty quick to point out the projector I paid less than $4500 for (with a $650 free lamp)
> 
> Was actually a $7000 MSRP projector.
> 
> 
> 
> So Touche'
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I have no AutoCal or Spyder5 light meter yet,
> 
> So no, I have not calibrated....the screen shots I took (with my 8 y/o $250 screen)
> 
> were all taken within the first week or two with my projector.
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as I get 100-150 hours on it, I may look into calibrating it.



The 110" Black Diamond screen is actually listed for less than what I paid on the website right now without negotiating the price.

I have no problem giving the JVC it's due and have done so whenever a comparison comes up.

Why can't you just accept that the Epson produces a very good picture as well?

---

With the JVC on Cinema Mode - Daytime with all the lights on notice the light coming from behind the projector:


----------



## PioManiac

Kelvin1000 said:


> The 110" Black Diamond screen is actually listed for less than what I paid on the website right now without negotiating the price.
> 
> I have no problem giving the JVC it's due and have done so whenever a comparison comes up.
> 
> Why can't you just accept that the Epson produces a very good picture as well?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Epson 5040UB is Absolutely the BEST in it's * *class! *(in the USA based on MSRP)
(just not in Canada, were the RS400/X550 is $500 cheaper and a much better choice)

It is the clear Winner among *ALL *the other 4(faux)K pixel shifting Projectors below **$2999 MSRP*

Feel better now? 
(see what I did there? hint: there no other pj's in that category)

I've been with the 3LCD Epson UB bandwagon for over 8 years, right from their very first,
mostly in part due to Art's review/praise at projectorreviews.com

I know very well how good they are. Mine is still going strong and refuses to quit after 5 lamp changes and 13k hours


----------



## Kelvin1000

PioManiac said:


> The Epson 5040UB is Absolutely the BEST in it's class! without exception!
> 
> 
> 
> It is the clear Winner among *ALL *the other 4(faux)K pixel shifting Projectors below $2999 MSRP
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better now?
> 
> 
> 
> I've been with the 3LCD Espon UB line for over 8 years, right from their very first,
> 
> mostly in part due to Art's review/praise at projectorreviews.com
> 
> 
> 
> I know very well how good they are. Mine is still going strong and refuses to quit after 5 lamp changes and 13k hours



Maybe now the healing and reconciliation between the Epson and JVC fanboys can begin...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

PioManiac said:


> The Epson 5040UB is Absolutely the BEST in it's class! without exception!
> 
> 
> 
> It is the clear Winner among *ALL *the other 4(faux)K pixel shifting Projectors below $2999 MSRP
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better now?
> 
> 
> 
> I've been with the 3LCD Espon UB line for over 8 years, right from their very first,
> 
> mostly in part due to Art's review/praise at projectorreviews.com
> 
> 
> 
> I know very well how good they are. Mine is still going strong and refuses to quit after 5 lamp changes and 13k hours



Since you have owned many Epsons, can you comment on whether you ever noticed Flicker or Strobe when viewing Blu-ray in 24p?


----------



## shepdog

PioManiac said:


> The Epson 5040UB is Absolutely the BEST in it's class! without exception!
> 
> 
> 
> It is the clear Winner among *ALL *the other 4(faux)K pixel shifting Projectors below $2999 MSRP
> 
> 
> 
> Feel better now?
> 
> 
> 
> I've been with the 3LCD Espon UB line for over 8 years, right from their very first,
> 
> mostly in part due to Art's review/praise at projectorreviews.com
> 
> 
> 
> I know very well how good they are. Mine is still going strong and refuses to quit after 5 lamp changes and 13k hours




It's just bizarre. 

You own the best projector probably below $15k. I would take your projector over any of the Sonys.

Period. 

Every single review I've seen sings regarding projectors sings the praises of the JVC. It seems quite a few of the reviewers own or have owned a JVC. Hell most of us who opted for the Epson sing the praises of JVC. 

Yet any praise of the Epson brings you out like clockwork. 

I guess it doesn't matter why. You provide good information I just find the whole JVC vs Epson thing weird. 

Obviously in a thread devoted to the 5040, people are going to brag and puff their chest out a bit after spending 3 big ones. 

It shouldn't effect the pecking order. 

There is nothing stopping me from buying either JVC or the Sony for that matter. I just choose to allocate my funds differently. 

Anyway like I said despite all the JVC back and forth you provide good info.


----------



## PioManiac

gnolivos said:


> Since you have owned many Epsons, can you comment on whether you ever noticed Flicker or Strobe when viewing Blu-ray in 24p?


I still own the first one I bought, a 2007 model 1080UB

Here's Arts' review from January 2008 that sold me on it
http://www.projectorreviews.com/eps...080ub-home-theater-projector-review-overview/

I was looking for something that would come as close as possible to my Pioneer Kuro Black levels,
and at the time, like many here, the JVC's were just out of my reach in 2008 and I only had $2700 to spend.

Here's the Black Level performance notes from Art on the 1080UB (Ultra Black) that sold me:









I have not owned any other projector until the JVC X750 just last month,
and have never had an issue with flicker or strobe. I'm guessing those may be 3D issues?
I would have no idea, never liked 3D and will never use it


----------



## Hawkmarket

Mike Garrett said:


> I agree. For best picture quality, a fully blacked out room and a low gain white screen. Isn't amazing the picture quality you can get these days for less than 3K.




$4,000 seems to be the magic sweet spot for best bang for your buck right now. You can get a great image from the Epson or JVC on the right day upscaling to faux K on a white screen and have an amazing setup. You double that amount spent and I'm not certain half the people could tell the difference in a blind test.


----------



## gnolivos

Nope. I see significant strobe on high contrast areas with fast movement IN 2D MODE. It only happens with 24p feeds.


----------



## Docj04

royboy365 said:


> This was posted by rgg14 in the other thread on 8/30
> 
> *Wireless HDMI software is awful, the Epson 3600e wireless shows pop up windows on the screen the images of the inputs connected, so change among inputs was easy, this version does not show anything on the screen, you have to look to the wireless emitter for the lights to change between inputs, this is ridiculous, no way to know what connection you are on, so I have to wait 2-3 seconds to see what is in the input chosen, Epson figure out how is done in the 3600e, I hope they fixed with a firmware upgrade.



Isn't it possible to run the all of the HDMI cables from the various components and then one HDMI cable into the transmitter, thereby switching sources on the receiver--and therefore the transmitter/projector?

Also--my bigger concern is how reliable it transmits signal without degradation/interruption. I'm REALLY struggling with the measly $300 difference (which could go to my screen((which i still haven't decided on either)). It would be a nice option for projector placement flexibility and not having to run HDMI wires (which also have issues with 4k) through the ceiling to two possible locations.

If the technology and reliability are buggy--I'd be pissed. I'm way to OCD for it not to work as good as wired.

HELP!


----------



## gnolivos

If you inspect the manual carefully, you will see that the UBe version has limited support for color depth in certain modes.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Kelvin1000 said:


> The 110" Black Diamond screen is actually listed for less than what I paid on the website right now without negotiating the price.
> 
> I have no problem giving the JVC it's due and have done so whenever a comparison comes up.
> 
> Why can't you just accept that the Epson produces a very good picture as well?
> 
> ---
> 
> With the JVC on Cinema Mode - Daytime with all the lights on notice the light coming from behind the projector:


Fudge me thats pretty!


----------



## ndabunka

kg505 said:


> Just ordered my 5040 and I'm now looking at what HDMI cables to buy. Does anyone have any good recommendations for a 12-15 ft cable that have had success getting HDR to work with?
> 
> Thanks


There is an ENTIRE thread on it here...
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-h...-uhd-blu-ray-long-hdmi-cables-what-works.html


----------



## terminal33

gnolivos said:


> Nope. I see significant strobe on high contrast areas with fast movement IN 2D MODE. It only happens with 24p feeds.


I tested more on this last night. I would pause the movie when I noticed it and can still see a bit of flicker with it paused. But when I switched from "eco" lamp to "medium" lamp mode, it seemed to have gone away. Have you tried this? Also, can you give me an example of a movie where flicker happens? Last night I tried Transformers: Age of Extinction. I want to test it out more. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

PioManiac said:


> The Epson 5040UB is Absolutely the BEST in it's * *class! *(in the USA based on MSRP)
> (just not in Canada, were the RS400/X550 is $500 cheaper and a much better choice)
> 
> It is the clear Winner among *ALL *the other 4(faux)K pixel shifting Projectors below **$2999 MSRP*


And you actually have much different *RS500* with MSRP **$6999*
that you keep posting pictures of to compare to 5040..

So you both are even..


----------



## aaranddeeman

terminal33 said:


> I tested more on this last night. I would pause the movie when I noticed it and can still see a bit of flicker with it paused. But *when I switched from "eco" lamp to "medium" lamp mode*, it seemed to have gone away. Have you tried this? Also, can you give me an example of a movie where flicker happens? Last night I tried Transformers: Age of Extinction. I want to test it out more.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I may be wrong, but that is the classic indication of arc getting settled.
That flickr should go away after few hours of usage.


----------



## gnolivos

Yeah my flicker strobe is different. Not there when I pause. It is a motion problem. I will post exact scene in Tansformers 1 where it happens so everyone can verify. Frankly it happened all over the place in Captain America Civil War. It happens under ANY settings that I have tried, and this is via PS3 and also from my Roku 4 with 24p content.


----------



## hatlesschimp

gnolivos said:


> Yeah my flicker strobe is different. Not there when I pause. It is a motion problem. I will post exact scene in Tansformers 1 where it happens so everyone can verify. Frankly it happened all over the place in Captain America Civil War. It happens under ANY settings that I have tried, and this is via PS3 and also from my Roku 4 with 24p content.


What projector are you talking about? 

Ive watched all of 15 minutes of Civil war because its to fast paced on my jvc. I dont even think a 144hz Gsync monitor would help.


----------



## dvdwilly3

Kelvin1000 said:


> I don't have the blacked out killer setup that PioManiac has (my room is anything but ideal) and I haven't calibrated my 5040 so these pics are box stock but they can give you an idea:
> 
> Here are some standard 1080p pics taken during the day with ambient light coming from all over.
> Out of the box Bright Cinema mode without any calibration or adjustments:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some other pics from YouTube 4K streaming:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of standard 1080p pics with out of the box settings and some ambient light:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung K8500 playing 4K without HDR
> 
> Epson 5040 not calibrated
> 
> Bright Cinema mode with no adjustments
> 
> Living room with some ambient light
> 
> Photos taken with an iPhone 6 Plus


Kelvin1000, thanks so much for your expansive response.

This is exactly the kind of thing that I was after.

Comparing your pics with those of PioManiac may (or may not...) be enough for me to get off the fence between the RS400 and the 5040ub. 

I know that he is running a step above the RS400, but I believe that the image quality between the RS400 and the RS500 would be very similar.

At any rate, it provides the closest thing to a comparison between the Epson and JVC lines that I have seen.

Thanks again!


----------



## Kelvin1000

dvdwilly3 said:


> Kelvin1000, thanks so much for your expansive response.
> 
> 
> 
> This is exactly the kind of thing that I was after.
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing your pics with those of PioManiac may (or may not...) be enough for me to get off the fence between the RS400 and the 5040ub.
> 
> 
> 
> I know that he is running a step above the RS400, but I believe that the image quality between the RS400 and the RS500 would be very similar.
> 
> 
> 
> At any rate, it provides the closest thing to a comparison between the Epson and JVC lines that I have seen.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again!




Happy to help!

There is a pretty good comparison on ProjectorReviews.com between these two projectors which might be helpful to you if you haven read it yet.

I have also posted a lot of info about my viewing experience with both projectors which I sampled simultaneously for 3 weeks.

I was once in your predicament so I know the "struggle" 

Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PioManiac

aaranddeeman said:


> And you actually have much different *RS500* with MSRP **$6999*
> that you keep posting pictures of to compare to 5040..
> 
> So you both are even..


I've never posted any JVC screens shots in this thread, not one.
The screen shots that were posted in the other "non-official" Epson 5040 thread, 
I apologized for and I deleted every one of them 4 days ago.

I believe the only ones that might remain are if someone quoted me
and chose to include the pics in the quote.


----------



## terminal33

For anyone still on the fence... I just went into my local Best Buy and asked if they had the 5040. The salesman checked and said no stores have them yet, but he can order it for me. I asked him if there's a way to get a discount. He asked me what I wanted to pay for it. I told him $2500. He talked to his manager and said the lowest the computer will let him do is $2699, and any lower would have be for employees only. I asked if he could buy it for me and I'd pay him back. He laughed and said he wish he could. Then I asked about 0% financing and he said it would be 24 months with my Best Buy credit card. I asked about getting 36 months and he got that pushed through. I could have chosen the 5% back in rewards with regular financing and saved even more. There's also a promotion right now where if you apply for the Best Buy credit card, you'll get 10% back in rewards on your first purchase. Anyway, hopefully this can help. Oh, and I asked him if I refer my uncle to him, would my uncle be able to get the same deal? He said it should be no problem. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Here in Australia we have the 9300. Is that the same as the 6040?

Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk


----------



## Number05

terminal33 said:


> For anyone still on the fence... I just went into my local Best Buy and asked if they had the 5040. The salesman checked and said no stores have them yet, but he can order it for me. I asked him if there's a way to get a discount. He asked me what I wanted to pay for it. I told him $2500. He talked to his manager and said the lowest the computer will let him do is $2699, and any lower would have be for employees only. I asked if he could buy it for me and I'd pay him back. He laughed and said he wish he could. Then I asked about 0% financing and he said it would be 24 months with my Best Buy credit card. I asked about getting 36 months and he got that pushed through. I could have chosen the 5% back in rewards with regular financing and saved even more. There's also a promotion right now where if you apply for the Best Buy credit card, you'll get 10% back in rewards on your first purchase. Anyway, hopefully this can help. Oh, and I asked him if I refer my uncle to him, would my uncle be able to get the same deal? He said it should be no problem.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Dammit! When is Epson Canada going to release official pricing?! I want to finance too through BB Canada. Sheesh...at this rate I'm going to miss the NHL season opening!!


----------



## aaranddeeman

terminal33 said:


> For anyone still on the fence... I just went into my local Best Buy and asked if they had the 5040. The salesman checked and said no stores have them yet, but he can order it for me. I asked him if there's a way to get a discount. He asked me what I wanted to pay for it. I told him $2500. He talked to his manager and said the lowest the computer will let him do is $2699, and any lower would have be for employees only. I asked if he could buy it for me and I'd pay him back. He laughed and said he wish he could. Then I asked about 0% financing and he said it would be 24 months with my Best Buy credit card. I asked about getting 36 months and he got that pushed through. I could have chosen the 5% back in rewards with regular financing and saved even more. There's also a promotion right now where if you apply for the Best Buy credit card, you'll get 10% back in rewards on your first purchase. Anyway, hopefully this can help. Oh, and I asked him if I refer my uncle to him, would my uncle be able to get the same deal? He said it should be no problem.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Yeah. Good for you. The BB around here are not so lenient.. They want to squeeze every penny from your wallet.
Would it be possible to PM me the scan of your receipt. I can try showing that to them and see if they change their mind.
24/36 months financing would be icing on the cake.


----------



## Docj04

gnolivos said:


> If you inspect the manual carefully, you will see that the UBe version has limited support for color depth in certain modes.


Well. No wireless for me! Thanks for this.


----------



## terminal33

aaranddeeman said:


> Yeah. Good for you. The BB around here are not so lenient.. They want to squeeze every penny from your wallet.
> Would it be possible to PM me the scan of your receipt. I can try showing that to them and see if they change their mind.
> 24/36 months financing would be icing on the cake.


Sent. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## WestCDA

Number05 said:


> Dammit! When is Epson Canada going to release official pricing?! ...(


A rhetorical question, I presume, as I've never seen a direct response from any Epson entity on here ...  

Did you try asking Epson Canada?


----------



## Number05

WestCDA said:


> A rhetorical question, I presume, as I've never seen a direct response from any Epson entity on here ...
> 
> Did you try asking Epson Canada?


Yes. Idiotic customer support for pre-sales can't provide me any more information than what's listed on the Epson CAD website supposedly.


----------



## Ronman79

aaranddeeman said:


> ^^^ I am loving this PJ, for the performance it exhibiting for it's price point.
> Only not sure of about the 18Gbps/10.2Gbps issue. I know it matters only to gaming and may be to HTPC. I don't do either.


True, gaming beyond this is beyond me. And, 4K UHD Blu-ray and streaming, bt2020, and HDR are done with the 10.2. Is 18 better? Sure. Is it necessary in this cycle? I don't think... 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## PioManiac

Ronman79 said:


> True, gaming beyond this is beyond me. And, 4K UHD Blu-ray and streaming, bt2020, and HDR are done with the 10.2. Is 18 better? Sure. Is it necessary in this cycle? I don't think...
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Did you see the posts on the "other" thread?
(someone really needs to merge these two threads already)



Josuah said:


> I captured the Epson 5040UB EDID and also performed some experiments with different signals. From what I can tell, the Epson is limited to 300MHz 4Kp30 YCrCb 4:2:0 10-bit. Any attempt to feed it something higher will fail. Higher options are also marked as non-native in the EDID.
> 
> 4K streaming sources need 4Kp60 4:2:0 10-bit advertised to trigger 4K HDR playback. Which requires 375MHz if I remember correctly. And so it isn't working.





PioManiac said:


> I "think" the end result is 10-Bit must be reduced to 8-Bit for a 10.2Gbps HDMI chipset
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI, All "Current" 4K Blurays are 24p BT.2020 4:2:0 10 bit,
> and even that may change in the future to a higher spec since it is not limited/regulated
> ....However 4:2:0 10 Bit is not a valid format for HDMI (as shown above)
> 
> So it has to be adjusted in the player, and not all players do it the same...
> and not all Projectors are compatible with all formats either (10.2Gbps chip vs 18Gbps chip)
> 
> 
> My Panasonic UB900 can playback in 4K/24p HDR/BT.2020 4:4:4/12Bit
> or 4K/24 HDR/BT.2020 4:2:2/12Bit, not sure what the Samsung,Philips or XBO-S convert the video to,





Josuah said:


> That's right. You can feed the Epson 5040UB a 4Kp60 RGB 8-bit signal. Easy enough to test by setting the Xbox One S to 4K output in its UI which will display properly. But that isn't sufficient to trigger 4K streaming.
> 
> I'm told the first generation 4K Fire TV will trigger it because the 4K Fire TV itself is limited to 4Kp30, so an EDID that advertises 4Kp30 4:2:0 10-bit should allow 4K streaming. But I haven't confirmed this.


----------



## Ronman79

shepdog said:


> It's just bizarre.
> 
> You own the best projector probably below $15k. I would take your projector over any of the Sonys.
> 
> Period.
> 
> Every single review I've seen sings regarding projectors sings the praises of the JVC. It seems quite a few of the reviewers own or have owned a JVC. Hell most of us who opted for the Epson sing the praises of JVC.
> 
> Yet any praise of the Epson brings you out like clockwork.
> 
> I guess it doesn't matter why. You provide good information I just find the whole JVC vs Epson thing weird.
> 
> Obviously in a thread devoted to the 5040, people are going to brag and puff their chest out a bit after spending 3 big ones.
> 
> It shouldn't effect the pecking order.
> 
> There is nothing stopping me from buying either JVC or the Sony for that matter. I just choose to allocate my funds differently.
> 
> Anyway like I said despite all the JVC back and forth you provide good info.


Very well said. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## WestCDA

PioManiac said:


> Did you see the posts on the "other" thread?
> (someone really needs to merge these two threads already)


I almost liberated a beverage via my nose on reading that ...


----------



## Ronman79

PioManiac said:


> Did you see the posts on the "other" thread?
> (someone really needs to merge these two threads already)


OK, the stupendous picture quality (including things other than the absolute best native contrast) and the gaming performance, as well as price thrown in, had just barely won me over with the overall package that is the Epson 5040ub. I guess I'm not getting it all. 

The Epson does 4K (faux-K), 2020, and HDR... Right? Advertised to do so, etc...with UHD Blu-ray in mind, what would the JVC, with 18gbps, be capable of passing that this can't, aside from supercalafragelisticespidaliotious contrast? 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## achristians

terminal33 said:


> For anyone still on the fence... I just went into my local Best Buy and asked if they had the 5040. The salesman checked and said no stores have them yet, but he can order it for me. I asked him if there's a way to get a discount. He asked me what I wanted to pay for it. I told him $2500. He talked to his manager and said the lowest the computer will let him do is $2699, and any lower would have be for employees only. I asked if he could buy it for me and I'd pay him back. He laughed and said he wish he could. Then I asked about 0% financing and he said it would be 24 months with my Best Buy credit card. I asked about getting 36 months and he got that pushed through. I could have chosen the 5% back in rewards with regular financing and saved even more. There's also a promotion right now where if you apply for the Best Buy credit card, you'll get 10% back in rewards on your first purchase. Anyway, hopefully this can help. Oh, and I asked him if I refer my uncle to him, would my uncle be able to get the same deal? He said it should be no problem.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


BB's protection plan for 2 years is $350 and they will do a replacement bulb for you. I asked them if I get to keep the old bulb and they told me, "Yes". So, it might be worth it to check into this as well.


----------



## c.kingsley

hatlesschimp said:


> What projector are you talking about?
> 
> Ive watched all of 15 minutes of Civil war because its to fast paced on my jvc. I dont even think a 144hz Gsync monitor would help.


I watched it in the theater on a very nice Barco projector. It was too fast there as well. Too many zoomed shots on fast action sequences where wide angles would have been better.


----------



## Cripsy666

Number05 said:


> Dammit! When is Epson Canada going to release official pricing?! I want to finance too through BB Canada. Sheesh...at this rate I'm going to miss the NHL season opening!!



I know a fellow who works at BB in Canada who is also interested in the 5040. He was told that they will not be carrying the 5040 this year! 


It may be worth a border hop now!


----------



## gnolivos

terminal33 said:


> I tested more on this last night. I would pause the movie when I noticed it and can still see a bit of flicker with it paused. But when I switched from "eco" lamp to "medium" lamp mode, it seemed to have gone away. Have you tried this? Also, can you give me an example of a movie where flicker happens? Last night I tried Transformers: Age of Extinction. I want to test it out more.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk




Ok here we go. I would like others to test this and comment on whether you notice the strobing. Even 5030 owners if possible. I see this in every bluray, this is one example only. 

Transformers 1 Bluray. Player set to 24p. Epson set to any mode really. 
Go to time 47:53. You will see Sam in bed. Then the scene pans to the left. Look at the bright window flicker and strobe wildly.


----------



## canillo

terminal33 said:


> For anyone still on the fence... I just went into my local Best Buy and asked if they had the 5040. The salesman checked and said no stores have them yet, but he can order it for me. I asked him if there's a way to get a discount. He asked me what I wanted to pay for it. I told him $2500. He talked to his manager and said the lowest the computer will let him do is $2699, and any lower would have be for employees only. I asked if he could buy it for me and I'd pay him back. He laughed and said he wish he could. Then I asked about 0% financing and he said it would be 24 months with my Best Buy credit card. I asked about getting 36 months and he got that pushed through. I could have chosen the 5% back in rewards with regular financing and saved even more. There's also a promotion right now where if you apply for the Best Buy credit card, you'll get 10% back in rewards on your first purchase. Anyway, hopefully this can help. Oh, and I asked him if I refer my uncle to him, would my uncle be able to get the same deal? He said it should be no problem.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


what best buy and who did you speak with?


----------



## PioManiac

Ronman79 said:


> OK, the stupendous picture quality (including things other than the absolute best native contrast) and the gaming performance, as well as price thrown in, had just barely won me over with the overall package that is the Epson 5040ub. I guess I'm not getting it all.
> 
> The Epson does 4K (faux-K), 2020, and HDR... Right? Advertised to do so, etc...with UHD Blu-ray in mind, what would the JVC, with 18gbps, be capable of passing that this can't, aside from supercalafragelisticespidaliotious contrast?
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk



Did you not read the pertinent information in the posts provided,
or just not comprehend what information was being exchanged?

People want to know what the're buying and what the capabilities/limitations are.
It has nothing to do with JVC, So how about we leave that out of the discussion?
..I thought that's what everyone here wanted? 

The 10Gbps chip set has limitations, enough so that some have dismissed the 5040UB,
Just because gaming or streaming 4K/HDR doesn't matter to you, won't stop the knowledge from being shared and there are those for whom it DOES matter.

I'm willing to discuss these issues like an adult if you are.


----------



## terminal33

canillo said:


> what best buy and who did you speak with?


I went to the one in Duarte, near Los Angeles. Are you near there? 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## canillo

terminal33 said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> what best buy and who did you speak with?
> 
> 
> 
> I went to the one in Duarte, near Los Angeles. Are you near there?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

las vegas!!!but I can talk to some one here and prob if Im able to show proff they will do the same for me


----------



## Ronman79

PioManiac said:


> Did you not read the pertinent information in the posts provided,
> or just not comprehend what information was being exchanged?
> 
> People want to know what the're buying and what the capabilities/limitations are.
> It has nothing to do with JVC, So how about we leave that out of the discussion?
> ..I thought that's what everyone here wanted?
> 
> The 10Gbps chip set has limitations, enough so that some have dismissed the 5040UB,
> Just because gaming or streaming 4K/HDR doesn't matter to you, won't stop the knowledge from being shared and there are those for whom it DOES matter.
> 
> I'm willing to discuss these issues like an adult if you are.


Just to be clear, I've complimented your input, even "went to bat for you" on a couple occasions, as well as noting multiple times how awesome your pics were, etc. 

Yes, I was seriously asking the question. And, I do game on consoles, which I'd like to use the projector for. 

Further clarity..... you could easily be accused of being the child (referencing your "like adults" comment), as there are many here for some time now who could confirm the tantrums you've thrown because some didn't like the way you handled yourself and so forth. Like going and deleting all your posts, and then rising again on these threads (as someone just recently pointed out) to quickly argue Epson's faults....You did this just earlier. Your $7000 + $250 pro setup vs his $3000 + $4900 setup. Several posts that equated to a pissing match..... Yes..... I want to know, again, what my console gaming and uhd Blu-rays cannot do using the Epson 5040ub..... Rant, and question, complete.  

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

canillo said:


> las vegas!!!but I can talk to some one here and prob if Im able to show proff they will do the same for me


Well, we know the computer will "allow" them to adjust the price to $2699. It's just a matter of finding a manager that will approve of the price. Oh and the BB I went to doesn't have Magnolia. (Not sure if that matters.)


----------



## nickoakdl

Just watched "The Shallows" UHD and that movie shined on this projector. I watched it in Bright Cinema on HDR 1, after I watched some on HDR 2 and kind of wish I watched it under that setting. 

If you want a UHD to show off the 5040, go buy "The Shallows," decent movie but reference sound and video.


----------



## Josuah

Ronman79 said:


> I want to know, again, what my console gaming and uhd Blu-rays cannot do using the Epson 5040ub..... Rant, and question, complete.


Since the PS4 Pro isn't shipping yet:

4K Netflix: not possible with any player AFAIK without doing something crazy I am unable to figure out how to do.

4K Blu-ray: possible with the right player and the right settings. Works with Philips BDP7501. Fails with Xbox One S. On a related note, Xbox One S also completely fails to play some 4K Blu-ray discs—see Xbox forum.

4K Gaming: possible at 8-bit color on Xbox One S. (I haven't tried a game to confirm this though.)

EDIT: Turns out I was not on the Netflix 4S+UHD plan. 4K w/o HDR may have been possible with the Xbox One S. 4K w/HDR may have been possible with the NVIDIA Shield.


----------



## PioManiac

The limitations of a 10Gbps chip set are listed on the following chart (in Green)
Josuah explained the implications of being restricted to 300MHz 4Kp30 YCrCb 4:2:0 10-bit










"4K streaming sources need 4Kp60 4:2:0 10-bit advertised to trigger 4K HDR playback. 
Which requires 375MHz if I remember correctly. And so it isn't working."

I went on to explain that a reduction in bit depth would be required from 10 bit to 8 bit 

This is the difference 









To which Josuah confirmed:

"That's right. You can feed the Epson 5040UB a 4Kp60 RGB 8-bit signal. Easy enough to test by setting the Xbox One S to 4K output in its UI which will display properly. But that isn't sufficient to trigger 4K streaming."

I still don't quite understand what JVC has to do with the discussion?
People hate hearing those three letters for some reason, so why bring it up yet again?
But if you must know, all 3 current JVC models have been tested and passed the 18Gbps testing.

So the upper limits (in Yellow) are 4K/60 4:2:2 12 Bit or 4K/60 4:4:4 8 bit

If any of those numbers are confusing to you, More info here :
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/


----------



## mbeat

royboy365 said:


> Thank you every one for your replies. It sounds like cheesenbizkitz is experiencing what I am but the rest of you are not. I'm finding it distracting enough that I haven't been using 4k Enhancement unless I'm playing a UHD disk as the PQ is pretty phenomenal without it.
> 
> I've decided instead of sending it back to Amazon for a refund, I contacted Epson and they are shipping me a new replacement unit that I'll get in a couple of days and then I'll ship this one back to them. No charge for shipping either direction.
> 
> Hopefully there will be a difference. I'll report back if the replacement is better or not. If it is better then cheesenbizkitz may want to do the same.


Very curious if you have received the replacement from Epson yet? Any difference? Also, is there any difference between running 24p or 60p content regarding audible 4K enhancement noise?


----------



## aaranddeeman

PioManiac said:


> Did you not read the pertinent information in the posts provided,
> or just not comprehend what information was being exchanged?
> 
> People want to know what the're buying and what the capabilities/limitations are.
> It has nothing to do with JVC, So how about we leave that out of the discussion?
> ..I thought that's what everyone here wanted?
> 
> *The 10Gbps chip set has limitations, enough so that some have dismissed the 5040UB*,
> Just because gaming or streaming 4K/HDR doesn't matter to you, won't stop the knowledge from being shared and there are those for whom it DOES matter.
> 
> I'm willing to discuss these issues like an adult if you are.


This information was absent until Cedia week.
Remember you had lined up for buying 5040. But as it was not available in Canada and a good JVC deal was thrown at you, you jumped on it.


----------



## Viche

PioManiac said:


> ...Projected on a $5000 Black Diamond screen


 Which has no effect on sharpness or resolution, which the OP was asking about.


----------



## aaranddeeman

PioManiac said:


> People hate hearing those three letters for some reason, so why bring it up yet again?


If you haven't noticed (yet), the better part of the reason is your postings that undermined Epson.
Though it was good input, the overall tone killed it.



PioManiac said:


> But if you must know, all 3 current JVC models have been tested and passed the 18Gbps testing.


This is funny. 
JVCs can pass 18Gbps, but hardly anyone can game on it due to the stupendous input lag.
Epson's lag is good for gaming, but does not pass the 18Gbps that is needed for gaming.
Go figure..

In summary, both are lame in gaming department.


----------



## Viche

terminal33 said:


> For anyone still on the fence... I just went into my local Best Buy and asked if they had the 5040. The salesman checked and said no stores have them yet, but he can order it for me. I asked him if there's a way to get a discount. He asked me what I wanted to pay for it. I told him $2500. He talked to his manager and said the lowest the computer will let him do is $2699, and any lower would have be for employees only. I asked if he could buy it for me and I'd pay him back. He laughed and said he wish he could. Then I asked about 0% financing and he said it would be 24 months with my Best Buy credit card. I asked about getting 36 months and he got that pushed through. I could have chosen the 5% back in rewards with regular financing and saved even more. There's also a promotion right now where if you apply for the Best Buy credit card, you'll get 10% back in rewards on your first purchase. Anyway, hopefully this can help. Oh, and I asked him if I refer my uncle to him, would my uncle be able to get the same deal? He said it should be no problem.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Awesome! Can you PM me a copy of your receipt as well?


----------



## PioManiac

aaranddeeman said:


> This information was absent until Cedia week.
> Remember you had lined up for buying 5040. But as it was not available in Canada and a good JVC deal was thrown at you, you jumped on it.



I was answering the question.
It has nothing to do with me at all.


----------



## gnolivos

Come on people. If you are going to post please think what value it brings to the entire audience subscribed to this thread. If it is directed at a specific person, whether it is an attack or a rant, take it on through PM so we don't all have to suffer through it. 
I already unsubscribed from the 'other' thread because it got out of control. I want to stay around and provide meaningful information but this is getting ridiculous.


----------



## PioManiac

I'm on board, and willing to move forward.

Kelvin and I buried the hatchet 2 pages ago.



Kelvin1000 said:


> Maybe now the healing and reconciliation between the Epson and JVC fanboys can begin...


----------



## hoogs

Agreed, this is the OWNERS thread


----------



## ndabunka

aaranddeeman said:


> This is funny.
> JVCs can pass 18Gbps, but hardly anyone can game on it due to the stupendous input lag.
> Epson's lag is good for gaming, but does not pass the 18Gbps that is needed for gaming.
> Go figure..


BEST "Summary" post on gaming I have seen so far...(I will be directing all those GAMING posters who never seem to be able to be bothered to read proir post, directly to this one!).

One edit though. 18Gps isn't actually NEEDED for gaming though, is it? Most every game can also be run at the lower refresh rates as well, correct? 

IOW, isn't 60p is an "option" rather than a "requirement" for gaming?


----------



## Threefiddie

ndabunka said:


> BEST "Summary" post on gaming I have seen so far...(I will be directing all those GAMING posters who never seem to be able to be bothered to read proir post, directly to this one!).
> 
> One edit though. 18Gps isn't actually NEEDED for gaming though, is it? Most every game can also be run at the lower refresh rates as well, correct?
> 
> IOW, isn't 60p is an "option" rather than a "requirement" for gaming?


you would drive yourself insane to game anything less than 60hz but you can always play at 1080 on this projector but 4k pc you gotta have 4k60 4:4:4 so it doesn't look and feel like poop. console wise on xbox for example you won't get all the features with the projector limitation


but then again this isn't 4k projector and really shouldn't expect it to act like one. for gaming better off just letting it upscale 1080p or from what i understand it will do 1440p for pc. which if that's true... that's actually pretty sweet for a projector to do 1440p. it makes more sense anyways. 1440p is awesome and not as demanding as 4k...4k on pc on a non 4k projector, you aren't even getting true 4k but your gpu is rendering 4k but you aren't displaying true 4k. kind of a waste of effort and money at that point because 4k pc gaming is such a pita to run at a decent frame rate still this day...even if the 5040 did 4k60 fake 4k 4:4:4. consoles you just won't be getting hdr.


----------



## terminal33

Viche said:


> Awesome! Can you PM me a copy of your receipt as well?


Sent.


----------



## Colin Goddard

I would like to see the opinions of 5040 owners with the 3d performance of this projector?..Also are you using Epson 3d glasses or another after market brand?.. I currently own a 5020 and I would think all of my 3d glasses would work just fine with the 5040?..Thanks..


----------



## ndabunka

Threefiddie said:


> you would drive yourself insane to game anything less than 60hz but you can always play at 1080 on this projector but 4k pc you gotta have 4k60 4:4:4 so it doesn't look and feel like poop. console wise on xbox for example you won't get all the features with the projector limitation
> 
> 
> but then again this isn't 4k projector and really shouldn't expect it to act like one. for gaming better off just letting it upscale 1080p or from what i understand it will do 1440p for pc. which if that's true... that's actually pretty sweet for a projector to do 1440p. it makes more sense anyways. 1440p is awesome and not as demanding as 4k...4k on pc on a non 4k projector, you aren't even getting true 4k but your gpu is rendering 4k but you aren't displaying true 4k. kind of a waste of effort and money at that point because 4k pc gaming is such a pita to run at a decent frame rate still this day...even if the 5040 did 4k60 fake 4k 4:4:4. consoles you just won't be getting hdr.


So to confirm, 60p is not a REQUIREMENT for gaming. Thanks!


----------



## Threefiddie

ndabunka said:


> So to confirm, 60p is not a REQUIREMENT for gaming. Rather, most gamers will be playing on 1080p rather than 4K anyway and for that the 5040ub meets expectations. Thanks!


i would say 60hz 100% bare minimum requirement for gaming. it's 2016...we've been gaming at 60hz+ for extremely long time. anything less is horrible in both input lag and overall motion.


----------



## gnolivos

So my 5040 froze for the 5th time when changing image modes. But...
I called Epson and they overnighted me a new projector. Epson warranty is LEGENDARY.


----------



## hoogs

I disagree that you NEED [email protected] 4:4:4, [email protected] 4:2:0 still looks and feels great. Sure 4:4:4 is ideal, but I think games look amazing on this projector.


----------



## ndabunka

Threefiddie said:


> i would say 60hz 100% bare minimum requirement for gaming. it's 2016...we've been gaming at 60hz+ for extremely long time. anything less is horrible in both input lag and overall motion.


So, you can't use the JVC due to the lag it induces. Good to hear that you have the $'s needed to buy a $10K with TRUE 4K rather than these cheap eShift units. :laugh: While it is 2016, the costs of tech continue to evolve and "expecting" a $3K to do 60p with HDR apparently is unrealistic

While it is 2016, the costs of tech continue to evolve so perhaps Epson will find a patch to allow them to provide it in this projector in the future.


----------



## Threefiddie

hoogs said:


> I disagree that you NEED [email protected] 4:4:4, [email protected] 4:2:0 still looks and feels great. Sure 4:4:4 is ideal, but I think games look amazing on this projector.



the problem is with text without 4:4:4. it's the biggest reason why people had to wait so long for hdmi 2.0 and 4:4:4 4k 60hz support on 4k tv's for pc's.



ndabunka said:


> So, you can't use the JVC due to the lag it induces. Good to hear that you have the $'s needed to buy a $10K with TRUE 4K rather than these cheap eShift units. :laugh:
> While it is 2016, the costs of tech continue to evolve and "expecting" a $3K to do 60p with HDR apparently is unrealistic


for projectors yes they are lagging behind in 2016 when monitors and tv's can do it all... projectors still playing catchup in both tech and pricing in terms of 4k and hdr.

although it's complete bs why jvc is so bad with input lag and they haven't tried to remedy it over the years.


----------



## hoogs

Text looks fine IMO. I came from the w1070 and I would say the desktop looks quite a bit sharper when using [email protected] than it did on the W1070.


----------



## Threefiddie

this is the issue and why 4:4:4 is so important


----------



## ndabunka

Threefiddie said:


> this is the issue and why 4:4:4 is so important


Not arguing importance. Just stating reality. 4:4:4 does work on this projector in lower than 60p signals so simply accept that fact and run at the lower levels if you need 4:4:4 and can only afford this projectors price point.

Your equipment is not listed in your signature so it is unclear if you already bought this projector and are trying to find alternatives or if you are considering buying this projector?


----------



## chiltonj

Does anyone know if the 6040 is being sold yet? I've had the 3010 and now the 6030 which have both been very good to me but the 6040 looks like the "one". Thanks. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

PioManiac said:


> The limitations of a 10Gbps chip set are listed on the following chart (in Green)
> Josuah explained the implications of being restricted to 300MHz 4Kp30 YCrCb 4:2:0 10-bit
> 
> 
> 
> "4K streaming sources need 4Kp60 4:2:0 10-bit advertised to trigger 4K HDR playback.
> Which requires 375MHz if I remember correctly. And so it isn't working."
> 
> I went on to explain that a reduction in bit depth would be required from 10 bit to 8 bit
> 
> This is the difference
> 
> 
> To which Josuah confirmed:
> 
> "That's right. You can feed the Epson 5040UB a 4Kp60 RGB 8-bit signal. Easy enough to test by setting the Xbox One S to 4K output in its UI which will display properly. But that isn't sufficient to trigger 4K streaming."
> 
> I still don't quite understand what JVC has to do with the discussion?
> People hate hearing those three letters for some reason, so why bring it up yet again?
> But if you must know, all 3 current JVC models have been tested and passed the 18Gbps testing.
> 
> So the upper limits (in Yellow) are 4K/60 4:2:2 12 Bit or 4K/60 4:4:4 8 bit
> 
> If any of those numbers are confusing to you, More info here :
> http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/


I'd rather game in 1080p at 200 ms lag.
Just saying.


----------



## Viche

gnolivos said:


> So my 5040 froze for the 5th time when changing image modes. But...
> I called Epson and they overnighted me a new projector. Epson warranty is LEGENDARY.


Be interested to see if the new projector fixes your 24p motion issues as well.


----------



## Viche

hoogs said:


> I disagree that you NEED [email protected] 4:4:4, [email protected] 4:2:0 still looks and feels great. Sure 4:4:4 is ideal, but I think games look amazing on this projector.


According to Piomaniac's chart, native [email protected] 4:2:0 is not supported by the epson. Are you getting there via e-shift of a [email protected] 4:2:0 signal?


----------



## rgg14

imhotep6 said:


> Did anyone get the wireless version and can comment on it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


I got the wireless 5040ube and I love it, the 4k wireless works like a charm, a little slow to catch the signal when you tun it on but is Ok, I don't want to deal with cables, jus a clean installation. I have to say that I had the 2600e wireless before and I returned for this beauty, fake 4K is great as good as my Samsung 65" curve real 4K. saying that the way how wireless emitter works in the 2600e was way better because it shows small pop ups with the images of connected HDMI sources so it was very easy to choose and change between inputs. The geniuses of Epson decided for the 5040 series to remove the images and you have to see a small blue LED lights in the emitter to see what input you are choosing, very annoying. Otherwise great, I hope they use the same IU of the 2600e in an firmware upgrade. 4 inputs HDMI and one output HDMI plus Optical.


----------



## Colin Goddard

chiltonj said:


> Does anyone know if the 6040 is being sold yet? I've had the 3010 and now the 6030 which have both been very good to me but the 6040 looks like the "one". Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


6040's arriving this week. 
Unlike
You, ndabunka, Ronman79 and 2 others like this.
Call for CEDIA SPECIALS
AV Science Sales, 585-671-2968
[email protected]

your welcome


----------



## rgg14

WynsWrld98 said:


> Can a/some 5040/6040 owners comment on pic quality differences with eShift off vs. on and comment on detail/sharpness differences of the same title with a 4K UHD BD vs. 1080p BD? I own a 5030 and am trying to figure out if an upgrade makes sense. I'd like the powered zoom/focus/lens shift with memory but am wondering what else I'd notice if I buy an Ultra HD player/new HDMI cable/UHD BDs since I'm happy with the 5030 for 1080p but don't know what I'm missing with faux 4K and HDR.


5040 from 5030 is a huge upgrade faux 4K great and HDR


----------



## BrianBuda

Colin Goddard said:


> I would like to see the opinions of 5040 owners with the 3d performance of this projector?..Also are you using Epson 3d glasses or another after market brand?.. I currently own a 5020 and I would think all of my 3d glasses would work just fine with the 5040?..Thanks..


I've used the Samsung SSG-5150GB glasses from another TV and they work great. I've only watched 3d for a few minutes but it's very clear and haven't seen any crosstalk. Maybe this weekend I'll watch a full movie with the kids


----------



## Ken30NYC

Threefiddie said:


> this is the issue and why 4:4:4 is so important


That's a total misrepresentation of what the text looks like on this projector. I have my PC hooked up to my projector and the text is razor sharp at 4:2:0


----------



## Threefiddie

Ken30NYC said:


> That's a total misrepresentation of what the text looks like on this projector. I have my PC hooked up to my projector and the text is razor sharp at 4:2:0


you sure you're at 4k 60hz then and not something less? strange...because that's the difference between 4k 4:4:2 and 4:4:4. I can do it on my 4k tv right now and it's a huge difference.


----------



## gnolivos

If anyone wants to sit closer to their screen and not be bothered by SDE (screendoor effect) this projector is superb. When you turn on the 4K faux-k enhancement, the pixel grid disappears. And the image stays sharp. It's quite incredible really. I am able to sit a WHOLE ROW FORWARD now without SDE.


----------



## Ken30NYC

Threefiddie said:


> you sure you're at 4k 60hz then and not something less? strange...because that's the difference between 4k 4:4:2 and 4:4:4. I can do it on my 4k tv right now and it's a huge difference.



Yeah because you are changing it at your TV but your PC is still sending the higher signal. If PC and TV are setup for the same signal text will look clear on any color setting.


----------



## Threefiddie

Ken30NYC said:


> Yeah because you are changing it at your TV but your PC is still sending the higher signal. If PC and TV are setup for the same signal text will look clear on any color setting.


no. changing it at the pc. pc is the one sending the signal when I switch. Tv just interprets what the signal contains and displays it.


----------



## terminal33

Colin Goddard said:


> I would like to see the opinions of 5040 owners with the 3d performance of this projector?..Also are you using Epson 3d glasses or another after market brand?.. I currently own a 5020 and I would think all of my 3d glasses would work just fine with the 5040?..Thanks..


I have tested the 3D and for some reason I liked it better on my BenQ W1070. It appeared to have more depth and pop out than the Epson. I watched the 3D IMAX Under the Sea blu ray (focusing on the cod fish scene) along with scenes from The Avengers. I even played with the Epson settings and couldn't quite get it to pop out as much as the BenQ. BUT... I didn't do a a side by side comparison or anything. I am strictly going off of my memory. However, the Epson is clearly sharper and provides an overall better 3D image. 

I have tried 2 different pairs of glasses. This pair is noticeably better. It's brighter and sharper than this pair.


----------



## Ken30NYC

Threefiddie said:


> no. changing it at the pc. pc is the one sending the signal when I switch. Tv just interprets what the signal contains and displays it.


Hmmm something is off. Even text on my old Panasonic 8000 was very clear. That's literally unreadable, like the pixels for the letters aren't even in the right place. Thats way beyond just a color issue.


----------



## Threefiddie

Ken30NYC said:


> Hmmm something is off. Even text on my old Panasonic 8000 was very clear. That's literally unreadable, like the pixels for the letters aren't even in the right place. Thats way beyond just a color issue.


well that panny was only 1080 doing it. there is your difference, but yeah you're even getting me confused at this point when you say 4:4:2 looks glorious because I've only seen it look like poop at 4k 4:4:2 in both gaming and desktop use! lol


----------



## hoogs

I'll try to take some pics of my desktop/text at 4k60 4:2:0


----------



## Ken30NYC

Threefiddie said:


> well that panny was only 1080 doing it. there is your difference, but yeah you're even getting me confused at this point when you say 4:4:2 looks glorious because I've only seen it look like poop at 4k 4:4:2 in both gaming and desktop use! lol


I think you're a bit delusional on what constitutes "looking like poop". I'm saying regular text on a regular page that every one uses in their daily life looks great. You're doing some Chroma torture test that nobody really cares about. I just don't want the average consumer out there to think the text on this projector looks any thing like the misinformation your putting in your pictures.


----------



## Dws6

chiltonj said:


> Does anyone know if the 6040 is being sold yet? I've had the 3010 and now the 6030 which have both been very good to me but the 6040 looks like the "one". Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



I ordered my 6040 and got a smoking deal. My dealer was told they are shipping them as fast as they can but will be approx 2.5weeks. Maybe a bit longer. So it sounds like they may be having a hard time keeping up with demand. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Threefiddie

Ken30NYC said:


> I think you're a bit delusional on what constitutes "looking like poop". I'm saying regular text on a regular page that every one uses in their daily life looks great. You're doing some Chroma torture test that nobody really cares about. I just don't want the average consumer out there to think the text on this projector looks any thing like the misinformation your putting in your pictures.



Excuse you. No need to act like that. There is no mythical chroma torture test for one thing... 

But you don't even know the difference when you can't even see 4:4:4 to begin with. There is a huge difference on pc. That is all. Did you miss the fuss over this when 4k TVs came out and didn't have hdmi 2.0 and miss all that drama? Then gpus got hdmi 2.0 and had to wait on TVs to catch up.


----------



## ndabunka

Colin Goddard said:


> 6040's arriving this week.
> Unlike you, ndabunka, Ronman79 and 2 others like this.
> Call for CEDIA SPECIALS
> AV Science Sales, 585-671-2968
> [email protected]
> 
> your welcome


Huh?
I already own the 5040ub but have nothing against it's calibrated brother, the 6040ub. I do wish mine was in black.


----------



## chiltonj

ndabunka said:


> Huh?
> I already own the 5040ub but have nothing against it's calibrated brother, the 6040ub. I do wish mine was in black.


Not sure I understood this either: "Unlike you, etc etc and 2 others" Perhaps a typo. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## canillo

i just tested warcraft 4k HDR t2020 12bit 4.2.2 vs 1080p 4k upscaled SDR 709 12 4.4.4 ...Native 4k HDR DOES NOT stamd a chance against 1080p upscaled. I mean there is such a bhuge diference in color and brightness. Makes me wonder why bother spending money on a 4k player. HDR just hurts the image. Turning he HDR off in the player helps a bit but still no match. I wonder if is the 12bit 4.4.4 709 against the 12bit 4.2.2 t2020. Anyone can explain 12bit 4.4.4 SDR 709 vs 12bit 4.2.2 HDR t2020. and why the 709 looks more color full and brighter.


----------



## PioManiac

canillo said:


> i just tested warcraft 4k HDR t2020 12bit 4.2.2 vs 1080p 4k upscaled SDR 709 12 4.4.4 ...Native 4k HDR DOES NOT stamd a chance against 1080p upscaled. I mean there is such a bhuge diference in color and brightness. Makes me wonder why bother spending money on a 4k player. HDR just hurts the image. Turning he HDR off in the player helps a bit but still no match. I wonder if is the 12bit 4.4.4 709 against the 12bit 4.2.2 t2020. Anyone can explain 12bit 4.4.4 SDR 709 vs 12bit 4.2.2 HDR t2020. and why the 709 looks more color full and brighter.


I think its a case of another bad 4K release from Universal

I bought the 1080p Bluray for that one after reading Ralph's review here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/187-official-avs-foruma-blu-ray-disc-reviews/2590521-warcraft-ultra-hd-blu-ray-review.html

4K/UHD 80/100

The 1080 Bluray version scored a 94/100
...and still has the Atmos Audio, so its the better choice on this title.

I do have an HDFury Integral that can turn off HDR while maintaining BT.2020 and WCG,
But I doubt that would even save this disaster of a transfer.


----------



## Ronman79

I think he'd just copied the lines from Mike's statement, showing the release. It showed that we "liked" it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ndabunka View Post
Huh?
I already own the 5040ub but have nothing against it's calibrated brother, the 6040ub. I do wish mine was in black.
Not sure I understood this either: "Unlike you, etc etc and 2 others" Perhaps a typo.


----------



## imhotep6

rgg14 said:


> I got the wireless 5040ube and I love it, the 4k wireless works like a charm, a little slow to catch the signal when you tun it on but is Ok, I don't want to deal with cables, jus a clean installation. I have to say that I had the 2600e wireless before and I returned for this beauty, fake 4K is great as good as my Samsung 65" curve real 4K. saying that the way how wireless emitter works in the 2600e was way better because it shows small pop ups with the images of connected HDMI sources so it was very easy to choose and change between inputs. The geniuses of Epson decided for the 5040 series to remove the images and you have to see a small blue LED lights in the emitter to see what input you are choosing, very annoying. Otherwise great, I hope they use the same IU of the 2600e in an firmware upgrade. 4 inputs HDMI and one output HDMI plus Optical.




Thanks for the review.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

Viche said:


> Be interested to see if the new projector fixes your 24p motion issues as well.




No change there.


----------



## nickoakdl

canillo said:


> i just tested warcraft 4k HDR t2020 12bit 4.2.2 vs 1080p 4k upscaled SDR 709 12 4.4.4 ...Native 4k HDR DOES NOT stamd a chance against 1080p upscaled. I mean there is such a bhuge diference in color and brightness. Makes me wonder why bother spending money on a 4k player. HDR just hurts the image. Turning he HDR off in the player helps a bit but still no match. I wonder if is the 12bit 4.4.4 709 against the 12bit 4.2.2 t2020. Anyone can explain 12bit 4.4.4 SDR 709 vs 12bit 4.2.2 HDR t2020. and why the 709 looks more color full and brighter.


I just watched "The Shallows" on it last night and the 4k w/ HDR looked amazing.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Kelvin1000 said:


> The 110" Black Diamond screen is actually listed for less than what I paid on the website right now without negotiating the price.
> 
> I have no problem giving the JVC it's due and have done so whenever a comparison comes up.
> 
> Why can't you just accept that the Epson produces a very good picture as well?
> 
> ---
> 
> With the JVC on Cinema Mode - Daytime with all the lights on notice the light coming from behind the projector:
> http://s613.photobucket.com/user/kelvinpena123/media/82E6C626-91E1-42C3-80ED-A68682878041.jpg.html




Your room is a perfect example of a room where higher native contrast really does not matter. The images most likely appeared about the same. The lower price of the Epson made the choice easy for you and that is not even getting into the feature differences. I am definitely not knocking the Epson. Last year I did not think it belonged on the same playing field as the JVC. Now it is strong competition.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Hawkmarket said:


> $4,000 seems to be the magic sweet spot for best bang for your buck right now. You can get a great image from the Epson or JVC on the right day upscaling to faux K on a white screen and have an amazing setup. *You double that amount spent and I'm not certain half the people could tell the difference in a blind test.*


In a bat cave they would.  In a room with a fair amount of ambient light, they would be hard pressed to tell the difference. When I say bat cave, I mean dark. Here is front of my room with three 75 watt floods, right above my screen, on 100%. Floor is even black. On the right side of the image shows the front wall and side wall, but you can't tell, since it is black velvet. Screen is an AT screen with masking.


----------



## Waikis

Threefiddie said:


> you sure you're at 4k 60hz then and not something less? strange...because that's the difference between 4k 4:4:2 and 4:4:4. I can do it on my 4k tv right now and it's a huge difference.


The place where I got the image from literally says it's a chroma torture test image. I.e. how often will you display that kind of image in your daily use?
http://www.geeks3d.com/20141203/how-to-quickly-check-the-chroma-subsampling-used-with-your-4k-uhd-tv/

Anyway, here's what that section looks like in 4:2:0 with 5040ub:









Doesn't look as horribly mutilated as your picture

Also, here's another 4:4:4 v 4:2:0 comparison for texts in normal situations:

4:2:0









4:4:4









Now look at the photos at your PJ viewing distance


----------



## Hawkmarket

Mike Garrett said:


> In a bat cave they would.  In a room with a fair amount of ambient light, they would be hard pressed to tell the difference. When I say bat cave, I mean dark. Here is front of my room with three 75 watt floods, right above my screen, on 100%.




That's where I came up with the $4,000 number. I think regular Joe probably does a lot of variety viewing meaning football with the guys/ movie night/ regular cable TV etc in all kinds of lighting conditions. I could be wrong but that just seems to be the amount needed to spend to get high quality image without many tradeoffs in all of those environments. Sure, you can go blacker with JVC high end stuff but that's like complaining you took second to Usain Bolt in the hundred and feeling bad about it.


----------



## Mike Garrett

chiltonj said:


> Not sure I understood this either: "Unlike you, etc etc and 2 others" Perhaps a typo.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


If you did a copy and paste of the text on this post, apparently you get that: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-36.html#post47077937


----------



## royboy365

mbeat said:


> Very curious if you have received the replacement from Epson yet? Any difference? Also, is there any difference between running 24p or 60p content regarding audible 4K enhancement noise?


I finally installed the new projector this morning and there is now absolutely NO CHANGE in sound or pitch when using 4k enhancement no matter what the source material is.

FWIW, the exchange procedure was easy. Got through right away on a Thursday afternoon and the replacement was received on Monday afternoon and needed to be signed for. Epson puts a just under $2k+tax hold on your CC and the charge doesn't go through as long as your return is sent within 7 business days of receipt of your new projector.

Shepdog may want to give a heads up about this issue on the initial post. 

I want to again thank all of you who replied to my initial posting. Thank goodness I didn't continue to quietly suffer this issue thinking it was normal.


----------



## royboy365

gnolivos said:


> So my 5040 froze for the 5th time when changing image modes. But...
> I called Epson and they overnighted me a new projector. Epson warranty is LEGENDARY.


It will be interesting to see if the other visual issues you've commented on are still present in the new unit. Looking forward to your update. I just posted mine about the noise issue and PM'd cheesenbizkitz so he can replace his unit also.


----------



## canillo

PioManiac said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> i just tested warcraft 4k HDR t2020 12bit 4.2.2 vs 1080p 4k upscaled SDR 709 12 4.4.4 ...Native 4k HDR DOES NOT stamd a chance against 1080p upscaled. I mean there is such a bhuge diference in color and brightness. Makes me wonder why bother spending money on a 4k player. HDR just hurts the image. Turning he HDR off in the player helps a bit but still no match. I wonder if is the 12bit 4.4.4 709 against the 12bit 4.2.2 t2020. Anyone can explain 12bit 4.4.4 SDR 709 vs 12bit 4.2.2 HDR t2020. and why the 709 looks more color full and brighter.
> 
> 
> 
> I think its a case of another bad 4K release from Universal
> 
> I bought the 1080p Bluray for that one after reading Ralph's review here:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/187-o...2590521-warcraft-ultra-hd-blu-ray-review.html
> 
> 4K/UHD 80/100
> 
> The 1080 Bluray version scored a 94/100
> ...and still has the Atmos Audio, so its the better choice on this title.
> 
> I do have an HDFury Integral that can turn off HDR while maintaining BT.2020 and WCG,
> But I doubt that would even save this disaster of a transfer.
Click to expand...

in a good 4k movie....do you notice a difference by removing the HDR with the hdfury? does the 4.2.2 t2020 looks better than the 4.4.4 709 when you remove HDR?


----------



## DanGraney

Threefiddie said:


> i would say 60hz 100% bare minimum requirement for gaming. it's 2016...we've been gaming at 60hz+ for extremely long time. anything less is horrible in both input lag and overall motion.


I don't know if I'm just a big dummy, but I've been playing Star Wars: Battlefront on the PS4 on my 139" screen and it has been nothing short of awesome.


----------



## chiltonj

Mike Garrett said:


> If you did a copy and paste of the text on this post, apparently you get that: http://shop.mendtronix.com/site/templates/jvc-projector-repair-services.html


So, I asked if the 6040's were available and you post a link to the JVC repair services. Alrighty then. Um, thanks! 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## royboy365

terminal33 said:


> I have tested the 3D and for some reason I liked it better on my BenQ W1070. It appeared to have more depth and pop out than the Epson. I watched the 3D IMAX Under the Sea blu ray (focusing on the cod fish scene) along with scenes from The Avengers. I even played with the Epson settings and couldn't quite get it to pop out as much as the BenQ. BUT... I didn't do a a side by side comparison or anything. I am strictly going off of my memory. However, the Epson is clearly sharper and provides an overall better 3D image.
> 
> I have tried 2 different pairs of glasses. This pair is noticeably better. It's brighter and sharper than this pair.


Given the BenQ is DLP I'm not surprised you liked it better. 

DLP will trump LCD when it comes to the 3D experience. 

One of my projectors is the 1085ST and I can see the difference too.


----------



## Threefiddie

DanGraney said:


> I don't know if I'm just a big dummy, but I've been playing Star Wars: Battlefront on the PS4 on my 139" screen and it has been nothing short of awesome.


Well you are playing it at 60hz...so why wouldn't it be? Too bad the game itself isn't awesome


----------



## Mike Garrett

chiltonj said:


> So, I asked if the 6040's were available and you post a link to the JVC repair services. Alrighty then. Um, thanks!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Well that was not the intent. 
Corrected the link now.


----------



## DanGraney

Threefiddie said:


> Well you are playing it at 60hz...so why wouldn't it be? Too bad the game itself isn't awesome


Ha, no. Not awesome... awesome-ish. Near awesome. Awesome-esque? The Death Star levels are, pardon the pun, a blast.


----------



## Ken30NYC

Waikis said:


> The place where I got the image from literally says it's a chroma torture test image. I.e. how often will you display that kind of image in your daily use?
> http://www.geeks3d.com/20141203/how-to-quickly-check-the-chroma-subsampling-used-with-your-4k-uhd-tv/
> 
> Anyway, here's what that section looks like in 4:2:0 with 5040ub:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't look as horribly mutilated as your picture
> 
> Also, here's another 4:4:4 v 4:2:0 comparison for texts in normal situations:
> 
> 4:2:0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4:4:4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now look at the photos at your PJ viewing distance



Thank you for posting these. That was the exact point I was trying to make.


----------



## PioManiac

canillo said:


> in a good 4k movie....do you notice a difference by removing the HDR with the hdfury? does the 4.2.2 t2020 looks better than the 4.4.4 709 when you remove HDR?


It varies a lot from movie to movie,
Some are way too dark, some are just right even with HDR.

Kind of a crap shoot,
So I keep two 4K memory settings in the PJ with different Gamma/Iris settings etc.
If I feel HDR is crushing blacks or losing shadow details I flip to SDR/BT.2020
Then a quick change to my HDFury EDID in my smart phone fixes it.

Some regular old 1080 Blurays look as good as many of the 4K titles
Prometheus and the Original Oblivion are awesome, 
the 4K/UHD of Oblivion was ruined by Universal with too much DNR. 

I'm pretty careful to read on-line reviews before buying now.


----------



## chiltonj

Mike Garrett said:


> Well that was not the intent.
> Corrected the link now.


Thanks! 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Craig Peer

canillo said:


> in a good 4k movie....do you notice a difference by removing the HDR with the hdfury? does the 4.2.2 t2020 looks better than the 4.4.4 709 when you remove HDR?


I'm not using an Epson - I have a JVC RS600, but, I do see an improvement watching 4K UHD BR using an HD Fury Integral setting of custom mode 10 - 4K60 420 12bits BT2020 all sound, which removes the HDR. I have the Samsung player, but I also still have my Oppo BDP 103 Blu Ray player. I've switched back and forth quite a few times between the BR and the UHD BR. You may need to make some setting changes in both the player and the projector, but the UHD looks cleaner, less noisy, color looks better and detail ( last movie I used for this comparison test was the Star Trek reboot ) was a bit improved. Not night and day though, since the Blu Ray is already a great looking disc. 

Just FYI.


----------



## PioManiac

another benefit of using the HDFury to remove the flag for HDR,
is it restores the functionality of the dynamic iris (that gets disabled by HDR)

I'm not sure its the same on the 5040/6040 though.

Having those inky fade to 100% black between scenes looks so much better than grey.


----------



## Ronman79

PioManiac said:


> I'm on board, and willing to move forward.
> 
> Kelvin and I buried the hatchet 2 pages ago.


Willing and able here... :serious:


----------



## cnorth12

cine4home (German) website took the Epson 9300 (5040UB) apart and turns out it has a SIL9777 chipset which is capable of 18gbps and the full 600MHz. So a firmware update fire this chip up or not? This is above my pay grade so just throwing this info out here for the pros to chime in and set me straight! Lol.


----------



## c.kingsley

cnorth12 said:


> cine4home (German) website took the Epson 9300 (5040UB) apart and turns out it has a SIL9777 chipset which is capable of 18gbps and the full 600MHz. So a firmware update fire this chip up or not? This is above my pay grade so just throwing this info out here for the pros to chime in and set me straight! Lol.


Now I question if anyone who has posted charts of supported resolutions has actually done an EDID override. There is no way on an Nvidia card to force 4:4:4 output if the EDID isn't exposing it. And Nvidia drivers try to outsmart you by defaulting the display to TV on consumer video devices. The hint that this is occurring is if the Nvidia control panel labels the connector as *HDMI - TV*. When it is working it will say *DVI - PC* or *HDMI - PC*. It could be as simple as that. Using CRU (Custom Resolution Utility) all you have to do is edit the 4k x 2k resolution (if exposed) and change it from 60Hz to something like 60.001 Hz, restart the PC and it Nvidia will change to chroma 4:4:4. If the resolution isn't in the list, then it can be added with CRU the same way. Setting a minor refresh change from 60Hz will force the card into PC mode and 4:4:4.


----------



## Ronman79

cnorth12 said:


> cine4home (German) website took the Epson 9300 (5040UB) apart and turns out it has a SIL9777 chipset which is capable of 18gbps and the full 600MHz. So a firmware update fire this chip up or not? This is above my pay grade so just throwing this info out here for the pros to chime in and set me straight! Lol.


I suppose this is good news then! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## hoogs

Just wanted to throw a couple gaming pics up (Bad photographer and just iphone 6 shots from my theater chairs). The first one is just to show how crisp the text looks. The second and third show the difference between no enhancement and 5 enhancement. (I think 3 or 4 is usually best, but I was surprised how much detail popped at 5 in this game. Look at the grass and the character portraits!)


----------



## Josuah

c.kingsley said:


> Now I question if anyone who has posted charts of supported resolutions has actually done an EDID override.


Yes, I did. That's how I determined experimentally that sending anything above 300Mhz would fail. I used the HDFury Integral to advertise higher data-rate options and none of them would work. Black screen on the Epson.

This is the Epson 5040UB EDID. You can use an online EDID reader to examine it.


Code:


00 ff ff ff ff ff ff 00 4c a3 00 a8 01 01 01 01
15 1a 01 03 80 00 00 78 0e de 50 a3 54 4c 99 26
0f 50 54 20 00 00 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01 01
01 01 01 01 01 01 04 74 00 30 f2 70 5a 80 b0 58
8a 00 40 84 63 00 00 1e 02 3a 80 18 71 38 2d 40
58 2c 45 00 40 84 63 00 00 1e 00 00 00 fd 00 18
55 0f 87 1e 00 0a 20 20 20 20 20 20 00 00 00 fc
00 45 50 53 4f 4e 20 50 4a 0a 20 20 20 20 01 be
02 03 46 b2 59 90 1f 20 22 05 14 04 13 03 02 12
11 07 06 16 15 5f 5e 5d 62 01 0f 0e 1e 1d 76 03
0c 00 10 00 b8 3c e0 2e ff 21 ff c0 84 01 02 03
04 01 00 00 c7 e3 05 c0 00 e2 00 fb e5 0e 60 61
65 66 e3 06 05 01 01 3a 80 d0 72 38 2d 40 10 2c
45 80 40 84 63 00 00 1e 01 1d 80 18 71 1c 16 20
58 2c 25 00 40 84 63 00 00 9e 01 1d 80 d0 72 1c
16 20 10 2c 25 80 40 84 63 00 00 9e 00 00 00 ee


----------



## hoogs

c.kingsley said:


> Now I question if anyone who has posted charts of supported resolutions has actually done an EDID override. There is no way on an Nvidia card to force 4:4:4 output if the EDID isn't exposing it. And Nvidia drivers try to outsmart you by defaulting the display to TV on consumer video devices. The hint that this is occurring is if the Nvidia control panel labels the connector as *HDMI - TV*. When it is working it will say *DVI - PC* or *HDMI - PC*. It could be as simple as that. Using CRU (Custom Resolution Utility) all you have to do is edit the 4k x 2k resolution (if exposed) and change it from 60Hz to something like 60.001 Hz, restart the PC and it Nvidia will change to chroma 4:4:4. If the resolution isn't in the list, then it can be added with CRU the same way. Setting a minor refresh change from 60Hz will force the card into PC mode and 4:4:4.


I'm willing to work on it. I attached a screenshot, I edited the 4k res to 60.001 and then clicked OK, it said reboot required. I rebooted and I still get the same thing in the Nvidia panel. Am I missing something?


----------



## k3nnis

Maybe a firmware update can make the HDMI to be compatible with 18Gbps....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hoogs

Who has the Espon contact that let them know about the UHD Player issue? It'd be nice to at least have a response either way.


----------



## c.kingsley

hoogs said:


> I'm willing to work on it. I attached a screenshot, I edited the 4k res to 60.001 and then clicked OK, it said reboot required. I rebooted and I still get the same thing in the Nvidia panel. Am I missing something?


Try disabling the extension block and rebooting again. Drop it down to 59 or raise to 61Hz if that doesn't work. Some screens will blank out at those resolutions, just FYI.

It should look like this with the resolution under PC not UltraHD.


----------



## Cine4Home

royboy365 said:


> I finally installed the new projector this morning and there is now absolutely NO CHANGE in sound or pitch when using 4k enhancement no matter what the source material is.




Most machines do have a change in sound of the 4K Enhancement / eShift if you feed them with 24p and switch the frame interpolation (!) to medium or high. FI has Impact on refreh rate (probably 96Hz vs 120Hz). With the FI off or low, nothing ist audible.


Regards,
Ekki


----------



## Cine4Home

hoogs said:


> Who has the Espon contact that let them know about the UHD Player issue? It'd be nice to at least have a response either way.




I let them know 8 weeks ago, no(!) update is planned / possible regarding the Samsung issues.


Regards,
Ekki


----------



## mguest

royboy365 said:


> I finally installed the new projector this morning and there is now absolutely NO CHANGE in sound or pitch when using 4k enhancement no matter what the source material is.
> 
> FWIW, the exchange procedure was easy. Got through right away on a Thursday afternoon and the replacement was received on Monday afternoon and needed to be signed for. Epson puts a just under $2k+tax hold on your CC and the charge doesn't go through as long as your return is sent within 7 business days of receipt of your new projector.
> 
> Shepdog may want to give a heads up about this issue on the initial post.
> 
> I want to again thank all of you who replied to my initial posting. Thank goodness I didn't continue to quietly suffer this issue thinking it was normal.



Thank God I saw your posts here, I thought I was losing My MIND over that noise. I thought I had toggled every setting on this thang but, when I turned off the 4K, SWEET SILENCE. Although, I did notice that it was silent when displaying the home screen. Guess I'll call Epson tomorrow...


----------



## Cine4Home

k3nnis said:


> Maybe a firmware update can make the HDMI to be compatible with 18Gbps....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk






No, this is unlikely, because of this Little fella:














This is a SIL9679, the HDMI Receiver.


Regards,
Ekki


----------



## k3nnis

Cine4Home said:


> No, this is unlikely, because of this Little fella:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a SIL9679, the HDMI Receiver.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Ekki




There goes my hope for 18Gbps HDMI 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

k3nnis said:


> There goes my hope for 18Gbps HDMI
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Go wireless...


----------



## k3nnis

aaranddeeman said:


> Go wireless...




You mean with wireless I can achieve that? Like [email protected] 4:4:4?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

Yes... Is this what you are saying, @Cine4Home? The wireless hdmi Epson 5040ube would do 18gbps, but the 5040ub and the ISF certified 6040ub will not? Please elaborate further. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

Now I'm looking at the other thread, and the transmitter isn't capable....? Catch 22

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## royboy365

Cine4Home said:


> Most machines do have a change in sound of the 4K Enhancement / eShift if you feed them with 24p and switch the frame interpolation (!) to medium or high. FI has Impact on refreh rate (probably 96Hz vs 120Hz). With the FI off or low, nothing ist audible.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Ekki


If 4k Enhancement is engaged Frame Interpolation is grayed out. 

I don't quite see how you are engaging FI when it is not a usable option. 

Care to enlighten us?


----------



## gnolivos

royboy365 said:


> If 4k Enhancement is engaged Frame Interpolation is grayed out.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't quite see how you are engaging FI when it is not a usable option.
> 
> 
> 
> Care to enlighten us?




Available with 1080p 24p signal when 4K enhanced.


----------



## Colin Goddard

chiltonj said:


> Not sure I understood this either: "Unlike you, etc etc and 2 others" Perhaps a typo.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk





Ronman79 said:


> I think he'd just copied the lines from Mike's statement, showing the release. It showed that we "liked" it.
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by ndabunka View Post
> Huh?
> I already own the 5040ub but have nothing against it's calibrated brother, the 6040ub. I do wish mine was in black.
> Not sure I understood this either: "Unlike you, etc etc and 2 others" Perhaps a typo.


Thanks Ronman79, you are correct with what I did, Sorry for the confusion, I was just going out the door for work, petting the dog and kissing the wife goodbye when i remembered Mike's post from a few pages back..Anyhow, my next projector soon will be a 5040 or 6040?...Gotta decide if the 6040 is worth the extra $1000 ?..Also anyone new to Epson customer support, I will say they have been excellent to me... previous projectors 8350 and 5020 projector that I have now..


----------



## achristians

*Smoking Deal*



Dws6 said:


> I ordered my 6040 and got a smoking deal. My dealer was told they are shipping them as fast as they can but will be approx 2.5weeks. Maybe a bit longer. So it sounds like they may be having a hard time keeping up with demand.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Would you be willing to pm me the deal you got? Don't have enough posts to pm you.


----------



## Mike Garrett

cnorth12 said:


> cine4home (German) website took the Epson 9300 (5040UB) apart and turns out it has a SIL9777 chipset which is capable of 18gbps and the full 600MHz. So a firmware update fire this chip up or not? This is above my pay grade so just throwing this info out here for the pros to chime in and set me straight! Lol.


Cine4home also posted that a firmware upgrade can't give you 18Gbps, because another pat is the limiting factor.


----------



## Mike Garrett

k3nnis said:


> Maybe a firmware update can make the HDMI to be compatible with 18Gbps....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No. Another part limits it to less than 18Gbps.


----------



## k3nnis

Mike Garrett said:


> No. Another part limits it to less than 18Gbps.


ok thanks.


----------



## royboy365

gnolivos said:


> Available with 1080p 24p signal when 4K enhanced.


Thus basically if you force your UHD player/Roku 4 to display 1080P or are using a regular Blu-Ray player you can then use both 4k Enhancement and FI.

I just tried that successfully with my Phillips but not quite sure why I'd want to do that with movies instead of running in 4k output. Is this something gamers like to do? Anyone care to enlighten me/us?


----------



## royboy365

Cine4Home said:


> Most machines do have a change in sound of the 4K Enhancement / eShift if you feed them with 24p and switch the frame interpolation (!) to medium or high. FI has Impact on refreh rate (probably 96Hz vs 120Hz). With the FI off or low, nothing ist audible.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Ekki


I'd like to offer a rebuttal to this statement.

Doing as gnolivos suggested I played a 1080p disc at 24p and was able to engage FI while using 4k enhancement.

At no time under any amalgamation was there a change in pitch/sound of my unit in an extremely quiet room with the replacement projector I received from Epson.

I believe that any units you heard a sound issue with are malfunctioning or it is a quality control issue and should be replaced by Epson. If someone else is having this issue and gets a replacement that is still noisy it too should be replaced.

I now have a *completely quiet* unit with the exception of fan noise and am quite happy!

My previous unit had 100 hours on it. I'll be sure to post again with an update once I get a more hours on this new one in case it is something that happens after some use.


----------



## ac388

Cine4Home said:


> No, this is unlikely, because of this Little fella:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a SIL9679, the HDMI Receiver.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Ekki




Noted with thanks. Just curious if that HDMI receiver part is that expensive for a $3000 unit ? It almost sound as stupid as Usain Bolt can run 9.58 n he put on a tennis shoes for a 9.98 !!!


----------



## royboy365

*Roku 4 not streaming 4k Netflix to my projector*

Amazon and Vudu both are streaming in UHD no problem and using the Netflix app on my Phillips UHD player also streams in 4k as info in upper left corner shows 2160.

When I stream from the Netflix UHD choices on the Roku and look at the info area it is only showing 1080.

Is anyone successfully streaming UHD Netflix from the Roku 4? Any tips if you are?

Thanks!


----------



## Cine4Home

royboy365 said:


> I now have a *completely quiet* unit with the exception of fan noise and am quite happy!
> 
> My previous unit had 100 hours on it. I'll be sure to post again with an update once I get a more hours on this new one in case it is something that happens after some use.




Yes, some machines do not make any noise at all. But These are the exception, not the other way round.


Regards,
Ekki


----------



## gnolivos

royboy365 said:


> *Roku 4 not streaming 4k Netflix to my projector*
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon and Vudu both are streaming in UHD no problem and using the Netflix app on my Phillips UHD player also streams in 4k as info in upper left corner shows 2160.
> 
> 
> 
> When I stream from the Netflix UHD choices on the Roku and look at the info area it is only showing 1080.
> 
> 
> 
> Is anyone successfully streaming UHD Netflix from the Roku 4? Any tips if you are?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




In my case when I try streaming Netflix from Roku 4, I can see it jumping between 720 and 1080. In some occasions I can see it hitting 2160 briefly. It depends on your bandwidth. I have 25 MBs which comfortably exceeds the 15 MBs requirement for 4K. But the Netflix app seems not as efficient to keep up.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Epson TW9300 
130" 16:9 by screentechnics


----------



## Cine4Home

We also took a look into the Wireless HDMI Receiver:




http://cine4home.de/forums/topic/di...ir-sezieren-im-live-ticker/page/11/#post-2154




This explains the difference between cable / wireless connection with the TW9300.


Regards,
Ekki


----------



## utkinpol

Cine4Home said:


> No, this is unlikely, because of this Little fella:
> 
> This is a SIL9679, the HDMI Receiver.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Ekki


It is an amazing architectural flop. Truly beyond comprehension why they have done this. Somebody at Epson has made a huge mistake as bandwidth requirements during next 5 years will only be growing.


----------



## utkinpol

Cine4Home said:


> We also took a look into the Wireless HDMI Receiver:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://cine4home.de/forums/topic/di...ir-sezieren-im-live-ticker/page/11/#post-2154
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This explains the difference between cable / wireless connection with the TW9300.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Ekki


you say - "By contrast, the radio link runs entirely from the SIL9777 (both in the projector, as well as in the transmitter). The actually allow full HDMI2.0 to 18Gbit. Bottleneck is here but the wireless connection that does not support the full data rate at 60Hz."

google translate probably screwed it up - what did you mean, exactly? does or does not?


----------



## gnolivos

According to their 5040 manual, there is limited support for color depth on certain modes when using the wireless UBe.


----------



## Kelvin1000

The new ROKUs will play 4K 60FPS HDR streaming.

Can the 5040 display this signal (with and/or without HDR)?

All these formats are a bit confusing to me.


----------



## tklein2

*Should I Buy The 5040?*

Hello. I have a JVC DILA-RS4910 with a new bulb (300 hours). I have asked some opinions on this, but would like a few more. I have a light controlled dedicated theater room with dark burgundy walls and ceiling and a dark carpet. Me and the projector sit approximately 16 feet away from a 120 inch 1.2 gain screen. I mostly watch football, tv and movies (pretty even % across the board during football season). Would it be a mistake to buy the new epson 5040 to replace my JVC? I use a Darbee Dartlet but, it only works with Directv... too many HDMI handshaking issues with FireTV and Blu-ray player. I think I would be happy with epson's supposed sharper picture, but would the contrast bother me too much? I would never use the dynamic IRIS on either machine, too noisy and too annoying! I always use ECO mode for the quietest operation, as the projector sits right over my head. One last thing about epson... I had the 5030 and kept it for 2 months, but ultimately got rid of it because it had a uniform white issue... there was a pink hue on the bottom 3rd of the screen. Hopefully this new lens fixes those issues. Thanks in advance for your opinions!!


----------



## ndabunka

tklein2 said:


> Would it be a mistake to buy the new epson 5040 to replace my JVC? I use a Darbee Dartlet but, it only works with Directv... too many HDMI handshaking issues with FireTV and Blu-ray player. I think I would be happy with epson's supposed sharper picture, but would the contrast bother me too much? I would never use the dynamic IRIS on either machine, too noisy and too annoying! I always use ECO mode for the quietest operation, as the projector sits right over my head. One last thing about epson... I had the 5030 and kept it for 2 months, but ultimately got rid of it because it had a uniform white issue... there was a pink hue on the bottom 3rd of the screen. Hopefully this new lens fixes those issues. Thanks in advance for your opinions!!


Based on your struggles with your JVC it sounds like you are ready to move on. I believe that you would enjoy the 5040 for the following reasons:
1) Run in eco (or even in "medium") lamp mode the Epson is plenty quiet
2) The iris is silent on my unit so I never even notice it operating so you may find yourself using it (like I do)
3) There have not been any reports of uniformity problems on these units but even if there were, these come with a "no questions asked" return policy overnight so that risk is not there as long as you buy it from an authorized dealer.


----------



## Mike Garrett

ndabunka said:


> Based on your struggles with your JVC it sounds like you are ready to move on. I believe that you would enjoy the 5040 for the following reasons:
> 1) Run in eco (or even in "medium") lamp mode the Epson is plenty quiet
> 2) The iris is silent on my unit so I never even notice it operating so you may find yourself using it (like I do)
> 3) There have not been any reports of uniformity problems on these units but even if there were, these come with a "no questions asked" return policy overnight so that risk is not there as long as you buy it from an authorized dealer.


2. The iris is silent on the JVC, so he is not using the iris due to noise. He does not like seeing an iris in action. Some do not notice a dynamic iris and others it drives them crazy. So native to native, big advantage for his 4910.
3. Uniformity is improved on the Epson, but LCD still lags LCOS slightly in this area. To make up for this Epson has allowed this to be calibrated and corrected, so if you do that, you should get good results. 

I already gave him my opinion regarding purchasing a new projector.


----------



## tklein2

Mike Garrett said:


> 2. The iris is silent on the JVC, so he is not using the iris due to noise. He does not like seeing an iris in action. Some do not notice a dynamic iris and others it drives them crazy. So native to native, big advantage for his 4910.
> 3. Uniformity is improved on the Epson, but LCD still lags LCOS slightly in this area. To make up for this Epson has allowed this to be calibrated and corrected, so if you do that, you should get good results.
> 
> I already gave him my opinion regarding purchasing a new projector.


Yes, I've spoken to Mike about my situation. I found this about the new 5040 (TW9300 in Europe):

http://www.cine4home.de/tests/proje...00_w/epson_eh_tw_9300_7300_9300w-livetest.htm

There unit had the pink hue! But seems to be more easily correctable than it was with the 5030 (I spent at least an hour trying without great success).


----------



## royboy365

gnolivos said:


> In my case when I try streaming Netflix from Roku 4, I can see it jumping between 720 and 1080. In some occasions I can see it hitting 2160 briefly. It depends on your bandwidth. I have 25 MBs which comfortably exceeds the 15 MBs requirement for 4K. But the Netflix app seems not as efficient to keep up.


Hmmm... interesting. Thanks. I'll hardwire the Roku 4 in and see what happens. Gotta grab a longer Cat 6 cable at Fry's this afternoon.

I will say that when I run Fast.com my speeds come up as 120Mbps but it's worth a shot.

Thanks!


----------



## Viche

Mike Garrett said:


> 2. The iris is silent on the JVC, so he is not using the iris due to noise. He does not like seeing an iris in action. Some do not notice a dynamic iris and others it drives them crazy. So native to native, big advantage for his 4910.
> 3. Uniformity is improved on the Epson, but LCD still lags LCOS slightly in this area. To make up for this Epson has allowed this to be calibrated and corrected, so if you do that, you should get good results.
> 
> I already gave him my opinion regarding purchasing a new projector.


Actually he did say "I would never use the dynamic IRIS on either machine, too noisy and too annoying!"so the JVC must not be so "silent."


----------



## Mike Garrett

Viche said:


> Actually he did say "I would never use the dynamic IRIS on either machine, too noisy and too annoying!"so the JVC must not be so "silent."


I spoke with him.


----------



## gnolivos

Kelvin1000 said:


> The new ROKUs will play 4K 60FPS HDR streaming.
> 
> Can the 5040 display this signal (with and/or without HDR)?
> 
> All these formats are a bit confusing to me.




Definitely yes. I played many YouTube videos in for 4K at 60 frames per second. Confirmed via info screen and they look awesome.


----------



## Kelvin1000

gnolivos said:


> Definitely yes. I played many YouTube videos in for 4K at 60 frames per second. Confirmed via info screen and they look awesome.



Thanks, that's what I figured.

I don't have experience with the ROKUs and I wonder how the 1080p and 4K picture quality compares to the 4K players like the Panasonic.

Most of the 4K content I watch is streaming anyways and the Panasonic lacks VUDU support (were I have most of my digital movie collection).

I would think that the difference in picture quality would be a lot more obvious in larger screens but I haven't had the opportunity to sample the ROKUs to find out.

Anyone else care to chime in?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

Kelvin1000 said:


> Thanks, that's what I figured.
> 
> I don't have experience with the ROKUs and I wonder how the 1080p and 4K picture quality compares to the 4K players like the Panasonic.
> 
> Most of the 4K content I watch is streaming anyways and the Panasonic lacks VUDU support (were I have most of my digital movie collection).
> 
> I would think that the difference in picture quality would be a lot more obvious in larger screens but I haven't had the opportunity to sample the ROKUs to find out.
> 
> Anyone else care to chime in?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Coming from a PS3 as a streaming device (and bluray) I am very satisfied with the Roku 4. Impressive in so many ways. It supports every streaming service that I can think of. Interface is slick and fast. 4K support is widespread among YouTube, Vudu, Netflix, and other for sure. Even 1080 upscaled looks very good for most services (as it does with bluray). My only problem is bandwidth, it seems I am on the verge of the requirements. 

Wait a few days, the new Roku's are coming out and one of the models is said to support HDR in 4K. I am returning mine within the return window for the new one.


----------



## brianlvi3

*UBE wireless*



brianlvi3 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Maybe I missed it as I just started going through many pages of this great thread. I just do not see anything about the wireless option, the UBE version?
> 
> Anyone at all have anything to report on it, from first hand experience or a review?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Brian


Just checking to see if anyone has tested the wireless or I thought I saw someone say it does not do deep color? Thankss.


----------



## brianlvi3

*UBE Wireless*



gnolivos said:


> According to their 5040 manual, there is limited support for color depth on certain modes when using the wireless UBe.


Can anyone explain this better please.

Thanks.


----------



## DanGraney

So, coming off of the Sony 40es, I'm curious about all the new features of my Epson 5040 like the dynamic iris... is there a reason why I wouldn't use it? Is there a risk of image degradation?
Sorry, total newbie question, but I haven't had that as an option before.


----------



## rupedogg24

Just picked up Lucy, Mad Max, and the Shallows all on UHD BRD. Threw in Lucy 1st and wow. The picture is absolutely beautiful. 

I've had the Epson for about 1 month now. The HDR on HDR1 Bright Cinema mode is really beautiful. Can't wait to try out the other movies.


----------



## Viche

Mike Garrett said:


> I spoke with him.


Just curious, did he mention the noisy iris on the JVC?


----------



## Ronman79

*Projectorreviews.com's 6040UB Video Review (overview)*
*
*
*http://www.projectorreviews.com/review-tv/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-projector-overview/*


----------



## Mike Garrett

Viche said:


> Just curious, did he mention the noisy iris on the JVC?


Nope. JVC iris is pretty much silent.


----------



## gnolivos

brianlvi3 said:


> Can anyone explain this better please.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.




Well I did the work for you. It's in the manual 

Here:


----------



## Viche

Ronman79 said:


> *Projectorreviews.com's 6040UB Video Review (overview)*
> *
> *
> *http://www.projectorreviews.com/review-tv/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-projector-overview/*




Pretty cool that he also mentions that the JVC's fauxK implementation isn't as sharp as Epson's/
How did he manage to get 4k HDR off of the Samsung player?
On the Ender's Game screen shots it says Image Preset 4 - that's the detail enhancer setting, not the HDR level correct?
Kinda lame that he didn't push the reality creation slider up on the True 4K Sony image. Would love to see a true comparison at default and then with optimal detail enhancement settings


----------



## royboy365

Kelvin1000 said:


> Thanks, that's what I figured.
> 
> I don't have experience with the ROKUs and I wonder how the 1080p and 4K picture quality compares to the 4K players like the Panasonic.
> 
> Most of the 4K content I watch is streaming anyways and the Panasonic lacks VUDU support (were I have most of my digital movie collection).
> 
> I would think that the difference in picture quality would be a lot more obvious in larger screens but I haven't had the opportunity to sample the ROKUs to find out.
> 
> Anyone else care to chime in?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


While my Roku 4 does great with my 4k OLED, I'm definitely having a better experience using the NETFLIX and YOUTUBE apps on my Phillips UHD player with my projector. 

I cancelled my Panasonic order when they announced the OPPO 203 so can't comment on it.


----------



## Kelvin1000

royboy365 said:


> While my Roku 4 does great with my 4k OLED, I'm definitely having a better experience using the NETFLIX and YOUTUBE apps on my Phillips UHD player with my projector.
> 
> 
> 
> I cancelled my Panasonic order when they announced the OPPO 203 so can't comment on it.




The picture quality is better on the Philips?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

Kelvin1000 said:


> The picture quality is better on the Philips?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I have tested both and noticed no difference EXCEPT that you need to configure the Roku properly using the 10 bit option. (I think?). Otherwise there is a bug where the black levels on Some of he services is raised by about 7 clicks!


----------



## trainfan

*the wireless version has no 4k support*

so in wireless mode it will not support a 4k signal ? "(4k x 2k) or 3840 x 2160"
then what is the point of even offering the wireless version ???




gnolivos said:


> Well I did the work for you. It's in the manual
> 
> Here:


----------



## gnolivos

Quick update on my 24p motion issues. It appears this is directly related to the brightness of the projector. If I set to eco and lower IRIS to about -7 then things improve noticeably. This is still way brighter than my Sanyo Z2000 in highest brightness. 

My old projector was waaaay dimmer and therefore I may have been used to a different perceived motion on lower frame rate material such as 24p from bluray etc. 

What I'm concluding is, as I first suspected, is that this is more of an optical effect. Brightness combined with high contrast and low frame rates....


----------



## Acquiesce

Hello all!

l'm having a strange issue with Netflix 4K content, my Xbox One S and my Epson 5040.

I have been watching 4K content for a week now, but tonight, it seems that ALL of the 4k content is gone from my Netflix app!

I have been calibrating my projector today, but I have no idea what I could have done to cause this problem.

Before I could see the "4K content row" in the Netflix app, but now, it's completely gone. And if I go to "Marco Polo" for example it will show that the episode is only in 1080p.

Can someone confirm that they can still see Netflix 4k content using the xbox one s?

Thanks!


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

Acquiesce said:


> Hello all!
> 
> l'm having a strange issue with Netflix 4K content, my Xbox One S and my Epson 5040.
> 
> I have been watching 4K content for a week now, but tonight, it seems that ALL of the 4k content is gone from my Netflix app!
> 
> I have been calibrating my projector today, but I have no idea what I could have done to cause this problem.
> 
> Before I could see the "4K content row" in the Netflix app, but now, it's completely gone. And if I go to "Marco Polo" for example it will show that the episode is only in 1080p.
> 
> Can someone confirm that they can still see Netflix 4k content using the xbox one s?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk




Maybe somehow your Netflix account was downgraded to Hd? Check your account via website and verify you are in the 4K plan.


----------



## Acquiesce

gnolivos said:


> Maybe somehow your Netflix account was downgraded to Hd? Check your account via website and verify you are in the 4K plan.




4 screens + Ultra HD = my account is ok 

It's something else... but what?

I just bought the xbox one s so I can watch Netflix in 4k and now it's gone. (


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

Well wrong thread really. Try getting help on the streaming forum.


----------



## Acquiesce

gnolivos said:


> Well wrong thread really. Try getting help on the streaming forum.




could be the streaming, but like i said, it was working before I did some calibration on my pj. I must have done something wrong with either my projector or xbox settings... 


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## Acquiesce

Acquiesce said:


> could be the streaming, but like i said, it was working before I did some calibration on my pj. I must have done something wrong with either my projector or xbox settings...
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk




Ok I found the solution on another forum.

It was an handshake problem. 

You CAN'T switch hdmi cable while the projector and the xbox is on. It will cause an handshake glitch with the projector and the xbox.

I just powered on my projector and the xbox and everything is working fine now 


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## royboy365

Kelvin1000 said:


> The picture quality is better on the Philips?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


To me it does. It possibly could be a wi-fi issue in that the Phillips connects at faster speeds than does the Roku thus giving me better PQ. It could also be something between the Roku and the 5040 given my Roku does fine connected to my OLED. 

I would really need to hardwire in to take that variable off the table to give a more accurate accounting.


----------



## dvdwilly3

royboy365 said:


> To me it does. It possibly could be a wi-fi issue in that the Phillips connects at faster speeds than does the Roku thus giving me better PQ. It could also be something between the Roku and the 5040 given my Roku does fine connected to my OLED.
> 
> I would really need to hardwire in to take that variable off the table to give a more accurate accounting.


Wired is always faster than wi-fi...


----------



## hatlesschimp

Does playing 4k computer games suffer from lag?


----------



## Viche

gnolivos said:


> Quick update on my 24p motion issues. It appears this is directly related to the brightness of the projector. If I set to eco and lower IRIS to about -7 then things improve noticeably. This is still way brighter than my Sanyo Z2000 in highest brightness.
> 
> My old projector was waaaay dimmer and therefore I may have been used to a different perceived motion on lower frame rate material such as 24p from bluray etc.
> 
> What I'm concluding is, as I first suspected, is that this is more of an optical effect. Brightness combined with high contrast and low frame rates....


Cool. Now if we can get the other guy with motion issues to figure out why he is seeing what he is seeing, we can check this one off the list as well. Ironically, I thought I remembered him saying that he ONLY saw the issue in eco-mode. After which someone had mentioned lamp arcing during initial breakin.


----------



## gnolivos

For anyone on the fence debating between Epson and another brand, I want to comment on the unparalleled customer support that Epson provides. I can't imagine any other company being as competitive in that department. They will overnight you a new projector whenever you have an issue that they can't resolve over the phone. Free of charge. You just return the old one and continue to enjoy life. 

I can also attest to the quality of customer service. They are well trained and efficient. No wait on the phone. Just great experience really. 

People need to give this aspect of projector ownership some weight, because it can become a nightmare with other companies leaving you without projector for weeks at a time.


----------



## c.kingsley

What are you folks all using for ceiling mounts? Peerless or Chief? Any concerns with either one? White, black? Where did you get the extension tubes (if using them)?


----------



## ccotenj

mguest said:


> Thank God I saw your posts here, I thought I was losing My MIND over that noise. I thought I had toggled every setting on this thang but, when I turned off the 4K, SWEET SILENCE. Although, I did notice that it was silent when displaying the home screen. Guess I'll call Epson tomorrow...


and i'm glad you quoted his post, it made it easier to find for me. i have the same issue. good to know epson is making it easy.


----------



## gnolivos

I love my chief mount. Universal compact and sturdy as all heck.


----------



## aaranddeeman

c.kingsley said:


> What are you folks all using for ceiling mounts? Peerless or Chief? Any concerns with either one? White, black? Where did you get the extension tubes (if using them)?


I myself was (and is) looking at Peerless PRG-EXA. That's a complete kit for drop from 8" to 21"

Edit : It's actually 8" to 12"


----------



## Ronman79

aaranddeeman said:


> I myself was (and is) looking at Peerless PRG-EXA. That's a complete kit for drop from 8" to 21"


Gonna have to check that out. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

Ronman79 said:


> Gonna have to check that out.
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


I currently have Vantage Point CGUPM-12.
It's rated at 30 lbs.
While juggling between Epson or JVC, I realized it will not work for JVC and that is when I discovered Peerless (as suggested by a kind AVSer).
I am holding on until I finalize on the PJ. Cause if I go with Epson, the Vantage point can handle it.

Link to the mount info.


----------



## McBadden

Best 4K blu-ray player to use with Epson 5040ub? 

Sorry for posting this as a reply. For the life of me can't figure out how to start a new thread. 

We live out in the country so our internet is unfortunately limited to dsl, which means no 4K streaming. I consider myself lucky to even stream 1080p. Therefore I believe 4k blu-ray player will he my best bet. I'm considering between the Samsung UBD-K8500, Philips BDP7501 and possibly the Xbox One S. I'd like to wait for the Oppo but don't think I will he able to. I seem to recall some comparability issues with Samsung. Any advice would be appreciated. Having the Epson 5040 professionally installed on Oct 5. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

McBadden said:


> Best 4K blu-ray player to use with Epson 5040ub?
> 
> Sorry for posting this as a reply. For the life of me can't figure out how to start a new thread.
> 
> We live out in the country so our internet is unfortunately limited to dsl, which means no 4K streaming. I consider myself lucky to even stream 1080p. Therefore I believe 4k blu-ray player will he my best bet. I'm considering between the Samsung UBD-K8500, Philips BDP7501 and possibly the Xbox One S. I'd like to wait for the Oppo but don't think I will he able to. I seem to recall some comparability issues with Samsung. Any advice would be appreciated. Having the Epson 5040 professionally installed on Oct 5.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


From your choices, I will pick Philips.


----------



## c.kingsley

Well, add me to the club. My 5040 will be here next week.


----------



## hatlesschimp

gnolivos said:


> For anyone on the fence debating between Epson and another brand, I want to comment on the unparalleled customer support that Epson provides. I can't imagine any other company being as competitive in that department. They will overnight you a new projector whenever you have an issue that they can't resolve over the phone. Free of charge. You just return the old one and continue to enjoy life.
> 
> I can also attest to the quality of customer service. They are well trained and efficient. No wait on the phone. Just great experience really.
> 
> People need to give this aspect of projector ownership some weight, because it can become a nightmare with other companies leaving you without projector for weeks at a time.


I can compare the JVC X7000 to the tw9300 (I think its JVC X750r and 6040ub elsewhere) and the x7000 is a 20 percent improvement over the Epson 9300/6040ub. Blacks and colour are in another league and the actual image displayed still looks like a consumer home theater grade projector. The JVC has this beauty like its a cinema grade look. Pixels are indistinguishable and image just pops more. But the price is way different. Here in Australia the x7000 is near $8,500 RRP and the tw9300/6040ub is $4,799 RRP. But the biggest factor for me was gaming and the Epson wins this hands down but also does a respectful job with movies.

My 2 cents!


----------



## ndabunka

c.kingsley said:


> What are you folks all using for ceiling mounts? Peerless or Chief? Any concerns with either one? White, black? Where did you get the extension tubes (if using them)?


Chief RPA & 18 inch extension. All black. It is actually the same universal mount that previously serviced my Sony HW50ES. I just swung the arms into positions that fit the 5040


----------



## achristians

gnolivos said:


> I love my chief mount. Universal compact and sturdy as all heck.


DWS6 - Sorry for being a newbie and not being able to pm. Could you pm me the info to your dealer? If you don't mind, I would like to contact them and see what they can do for me on the 6040.


----------



## Ronman79

McBadden said:


> Best 4K blu-ray player to use with Epson 5040ub?
> 
> I'm considering between the Samsung UBD-K8500, Philips BDP7501 and possibly the Xbox One S. I'd like to wait for the Oppo but don't think I will he able to.


I think the Oppo will be worth waiting for. If not it, the Panasonic. Out of the ones you listed... Philips. 


Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## mcallister

Had an odd issue yesterday while watching football on my 5040. I have been using cinema in normal lamp mode (is normal right the one above Eco).

I decided to put the lamp in Eco considering my friends and I are huge college football fans and the projector was going to be on all day. About 3 hours in I started noticing a flicker type effect, almost like a flashlight switching on and off every few seconds.

I tried turning off the iris and messing with some settings none of which worked and also turning off the Epson and restarting it which still didn't work. I then moved the lamp mode back up to normal and it fixed the issue.

Does this sound like something I should be worried about? I did see a previous post mentioning something that sounds similar to this and the projector needs to "break in" in Eco mode. Hopefully that's the case.


----------



## Cripsy666

gnolivos said:


> For anyone on the fence debating between Epson and another brand, I want to comment on the unparalleled customer support that Epson provides. I can't imagine any other company being as competitive in that department. They will overnight you a new projector whenever you have an issue that they can't resolve over the phone. Free of charge. You just return the old one and continue to enjoy life.
> 
> I can also attest to the quality of customer service. They are well trained and efficient. No wait on the phone. Just great experience really.
> 
> People need to give this aspect of projector ownership some weight, because it can become a nightmare with other companies leaving you without projector for weeks at a time.



Not entirely true. I had to return multiple 3020 projectors. When I called, the call centre answered on cheap VOIP phones, and I could barely understand them. I had to talk to 2-3 different people before they authorized an exchange.


When they did authorize an exchange, they had to pre auth my credit card for the full amount of the replacement projector before they overnighted me a new one. (So now there is a $2000 hold for 3-7 days on my credit card) Also, after the first year, they have the right to send you a refurb. However, you always get a new lamp!


----------



## gnolivos

Cripsy666 said:


> Not entirely true. I had to return multiple 3020 projectors. When I called, the call centre answered on cheap VOIP phones, and I could barely understand them. I had to talk to 2-3 different people before they authorized an exchange.
> 
> 
> When they did authorize an exchange, they had to pre auth my credit card for the full amount of the replacement projector before they overnighted me a new one. (So now there is a $2000 hold for 3-7 days on my credit card) Also, after the first year, they have the right to send you a refurb. However, you always get a new lamp!




Still sounds like they bent over backwards to help you out. I can't imagine any company sending you thousands of dollars worth of equipment without a credit card hold. In any case, my point is that Epson has unmatched warranty and support.


----------



## Cripsy666

gnolivos said:


> Still sounds like they bent over backwards to help you out. I can't imagine any company sending you thousands of dollars worth of equipment without a credit card hold. In any case, my point is that Epson has unmatched warranty and support.






Yes, As I said.. YES they do a credit card pre-auth... which is the same as a hold. They do NOT send it without that.. Or they send you a postage label to send yours back first, then when they get it, they will send you a replacement.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Cripsy666 said:


> Yes, As I said.. YES they do a credit card pre-auth... which is the same as a hold. They do NOT send it without that.. Or they send you a postage label to send yours back first, then when they get it, they will send you a replacement.


So what's the argument seem to be here?
Aren't these options better than you shipping it on your cost and wait until that same one comes back to you after repairs?


----------



## Cripsy666

aaranddeeman said:


> So what's the argument seem to be here?
> Aren't these options better than you shipping it on your cost and wait until that same one comes back to you after repairs?



There wasn't an argument at all. The Epson warranty is great.. I was just explaining how it works.  It is not as easy as was stated. It takes a while on the phone to get approved for an exchange, and then the overnight exchange option needs a hold on a credit card at full retail value first.. and for some people, a hold of $2999 for up to a week may not be feasible for them. Also, some people do not have credit cards, in which case the overnight option is not available.


I have dealt with them before, and sending a replacement is a LAST resort for them, and you may have to talk to 2-3 different people before it gets approved.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Cripsy666 said:


> Also, some people do not have credit cards, in which case the overnight option is not available.


Are you serious? Who does not have credit card this day and age (and especially those who afford to buy a PJ worth $3k). 



Cripsy666 said:


> I have dealt with them before, and sending a replacement is a LAST resort for them, and you may have to talk to 2-3 different people before it gets approved.


You can't expect someone to handover a brand new piece right at your first call. 
Don't they have to ensure that the problem is not really user fixable?
95% of the problems are user issues in the electronic world, and simply due to lack of complete understanding of the (complex) product.
More so, they don't bother to RTFM, there solution is right there somewhere.


----------



## c.kingsley

ndabunka said:


> Chief RPA & 18 inch extension. All black. It is actually the same universal mount that previously serviced my Sony HW50ES. I just swung the arms into positions that fit the 5040


I ended up going with the Peerless PRGS-UNV paired with the cathedral mount and an 8" drop tube. The back wall of my theater room is clipped by the roof truss and has an 18" drop at an angle. The front wall where I will project is a flat 8' surface. Reading the individual manuals, the PRGS-UNV listed the cathedral mount as one of the accessories that works. I saw a cathedral mount on Chief's site but I couldn't find info on if it would work. Hopefully it works, I'll update after installation.


----------



## gnolivos

Well I regret having given any detail on the subject because people will dissect every word you write. Suffice it to say, Epson's warranty and support is EXCELLENT.


----------



## mase1981

i just got tracking for my 6040ub !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAAAAAY
anyone else purchased the 6040ub besides me?


----------



## Docj04

OK fellas.
I really would prefer to go with the 135" screen over the 120". I'm looking at the Cinegrey 3D screen.
Epson's projector calculator indicates a minimum throw of 13'4. Elite Screen recommends 1.5x the viewing width--so 117 x 1.5 /12 = 14.6' minimum.

With my basement layout, I'd be right at the minimum of 14-15' throw length, mounted on a 8'9" ceiling.
Although I'm within the minimum throw distance spec for both Epson and ELite for a 135" screen--Would you suggest reducing down to the 120"?

If so, why?


----------



## Colin Goddard

mase1981 said:


> i just got tracking for my 6040ub !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAAAAAY
> anyone else purchased the 6040ub besides me?


I will purchase the 6040 in the next few days.. I spoke with Mike @ AV Science yesterday and he said they expected a shipment Monday..Selling for $3999 and free shipping to the lower 48..Where did you buy yours?..And if you don't mind the price you paid?..thanks


----------



## firefox20000

Hi @All

My plan is to buy the Epson 5040 plus PS4Pro.

PS4Pro will be ready for Netflix 4K/HDR. 

Will be the 5040 to display Netflix 4K/HDR or not?


----------



## mase1981

Colin Goddard said:


> I will purchase the 6040 in the next few days.. I spoke with Mike @ AV Science yesterday and he said they expected a shipment Monday..Selling for $3999 and free shipping to the lower 48..Where did you buy yours?..And if you don't mind the price you paid?..thanks


I got mine from Mike as well, 3999$ shipped. 
i ordered from him, i honestly believe i was the first one to request one a few months back the day Epson released the statement. So that is why i believe mine was probably the first to be shipped. (if i am horribly wrong, please forgive me ) 
Got UPS tracking, will arrive to my place Thursday.


----------



## Colin Goddard

mase1981 said:


> I got mine from Mike as well, 3999$ shipped.
> i ordered from him, i honestly believe i was the first one to request one a few months back the day Epson released the statement. So that is why i believe mine was probably the first to be shipped. (if i am horribly wrong, please forgive me )
> Got UPS tracking, will arrive to my place Thursday.


Congrats!..This is my 3rd Epson projector..I've had good experience with there customer service..My 5020 was over 2 years old when my bulb went out with only 600 hours mostly on eco mode..I called and complained even though it was out of warranty..They shipped me a new bulb..No charge.Nice!


----------



## mase1981

Colin Goddard said:


> Congrats!..This is my 3rd Epson projector..I've had good experience with there customer service..My 5020 was over 2 years old when my bulb went out with only 600 hours mostly on eco mode..I called and complained even though it was out of warranty..They shipped me a new bulb..No charge.Nice!


Their Support is out of this world !
Which is one of the main reasons why i went with the 6040ub
i got ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOOOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT of pressure to go with JVC from Mike and a bunch of other forum users.
But i refused all offers and decided to stay with Epson. in particular the 6040ub from these reasons (in importance order)

1. Customer support and exchange program. 
2. Input lag for gaming. 
3. Color black. 
4. Extra bulb and mount. 

i had Epson before (3010) and had zero issues.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> Well I regret having given any detail on the subject because people will dissect every word you write. Suffice it to say, Epson's warranty and support is EXCELLENT.


Some people go hostile hearing any good word about Epson. (We know two of them now.. )


----------



## aaranddeeman

mase1981 said:


> I got mine from Mike as well, 3999$ shipped.
> i ordered from him, i honestly believe i was the first one to request one a few months back the day Epson released the statement. So that is why i believe mine was probably the first to be shipped. (if i am horribly wrong, please forgive me )
> Got UPS tracking, will arrive to my place Thursday.


Yup, your serial no. is 000001


----------



## mase1981

aaranddeeman said:


> mase1981 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got mine from Mike as well, 3999$ shipped.
> i ordered from him, i honestly believe i was the first one to request one a few months back the day Epson released the statement. So that is why i believe mine was probably the first to be shipped. (if i am horribly wrong, please forgive me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Got UPS tracking, will arrive to my place Thursday.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, your serial no. is 000001
Click to expand...

Lol! How funny will it be if that will actually happen lol


----------



## c.kingsley

mase1981 said:


> But i refused all offers and decided to stay with Epson. in particular the 6040ub from these reasons (in importance order)
> 
> 1. Customer support and exchange program.
> 2. Input lag for gaming.
> 3. Color black.
> 4. Extra bulb and mount.


Ultimately I chose the Epson because of option 2 as well. I spent too much time waffling between the 5040 and the RS400. I'd love the JVC but they lost me as a customer because of input lag. It is a huge issue if you want to game on the projector, despite anecdotal reports to the contrary. 

The sad thing is that comparisons between these have become dogmatic. It reminds me of the Playstation vs Xbox threads and that isn't a compliment. Everyone just enjoy your decisions. I know I will enjoy mine.


----------



## Threefiddie

firefox20000 said:


> Hi @All
> 
> My plan is to buy the Epson 5040 plus PS4Pro.
> 
> PS4Pro will be ready for Netflix 4K/HDR.
> 
> Will be the 5040 to display Netflix 4K/HDR or not?


prob not hdr. just like xbox due to chipset limitation on the projector


----------



## c.kingsley

Threefiddie said:


> prob not hdr. just like xbox due to chipset limitation on the projector


If it is 24Hz it will do just fine with HDR. Just curious, what video content has been filmed at 4k, 60Hz with HDR? Whether the PS4Pro will have difficulty remains to be seen. I would wait until it is tested. Right now we know the Phillips player works. The Oppo will likely work as well but we won't have first hand reports until November.


----------



## Threefiddie

c.kingsley said:


> If it is 24Hz it will do just fine with HDR. Just curious, what video content has been filmed at 4k, 60Hz with HDR? Whether the PS4Pro will have difficulty remains to be seen. I would wait until it is tested. Right now we know the Phillips player works. The Oppo will likely work as well but we won't have first hand reports until November.


well as of right now the xbox one s does not think the 5040 supports hdr and it will not enable hdr in apps or games because of it.


----------



## Waikis

Threefiddie said:


> well as of right now the xbox one s does not think the 5040 supports hdr and it will not enable hdr in apps or games because of it.


But using hdfury integral/linker should fix it right?


----------



## c.kingsley

Threefiddie said:


> well as of right now the xbox one s does not think the 5040 supports hdr and it will not enable hdr in apps or games because of it.


The XB1 S is having problems with a multitude of devices. That is a MS specific problem more than anything. At this time the Phillips player is the only one that is confirmed to not have problems so that is what people should use. It works on the Phillips so it isn't the projector that is the problem.


----------



## Threefiddie

c.kingsley said:


> The XB1 S is having problems with a multitude of devices. That is a MS specific problem more than anything. At this time the Phillips player is the only one that is confirmed to not have problems so that is what people should use. It works on the Phillips so it isn't the projector that is the problem.


well it's been reported that epson is looking to do a firmware update to fix the fact that 4k bluray players and xbox are not working correctly(other than the philips). so yeah it's the projector's problem right now.


----------



## Viche

firefox20000 said:


> Hi @*All*
> 
> My plan is to buy the Epson 5040 plus PS4Pro.
> 
> PS4Pro will be ready for Netflix 4K/HDR.
> 
> Will be the 5040 to display Netflix 4K/HDR or not?


Honestly no one knows for sure. The gimped hdmi chipset in the 5040 doesn't help the odds.


----------



## Threefiddie

ndabunka said:


> While both manufacturer's have their issues, this one is a Xbox issue. As others have pointed out it is a limitation of the way that Microsoft implemented their interfaces. The Xbox1S is crap
> 
> You position it as if the Phillips it the ONLY UHD working which is a falicy. In addition to the Phillips, the Panasonic UHD works as well. The samsung works but has issues with it's software as well so some things work and others don't Samsung is said to be working on a fix but I wouldn't hold my breath on that one.


in regards to just hdr. not 4k in general.


----------



## c.kingsley

Threefiddie said:


> in regards to just hdr. not 4k in general.


If device X works fine with player A and not player B, it doesn't logically follow that device X is the problem. Substitute real names for variables and I think you will be able to figure this logical puzzle out.


----------



## hnupe

*HELP PLEASE - What actual setting should I use to get best 4K picture?*

Hello,

Now that I have the Epson and the Philips BDP7501, I have read all 47 pages of this thread and I am very confused on how to proceed with my new toys.....Can someone please give me guidance on what "settings" I should have on the Epson and what "settings" I should have on the Philips BDP7501? Should I pay a person/company to do a calibration?

Any feed back will be appreciated.


----------



## McBadden

Ronman79 said:


> I think the Oppo will be worth waiting for. If not it, the Panasonic. Out of the ones you listed... Philips.
> 
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Thanks to everyone for their advice. I will probably pick up the Oppo after its release. In the meantime I've decided to go with the Xbox One S primarily because of the added bonus of being able to play games. I understand there are potential limitations with the Xbox but since I plan to get the upcoming Oppo anyway I feel like it makes more sense for me. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## royboy365

aaranddeeman said:


> From your choices, I will pick Philips.


The 5040 does such an *OUTSTANDING* job of handling 1080p Blu-Ray using 4k Enhancement and one of the Image Preset Modes the that I would strongly suggest waiting for the Oppo. I've been an Oppo user since the 82 and still use it for upscaling my regular DVD's to 1080p and use the 103 and 105 in other systems.

The internals of the new 203 has been designed specifically for UHD material.

I have both the Samsung and the Phillips UHD players (picked up Phillips because of Samsung incompatibility issues) and don't see enough of a difference to between 4k disks and BluRay disks to say you are missing much and should upgrade right away.

I've been following the Oppo 203 anticipation thread and honestly don't think you will have to wait very long for it. I already put a deposit at my local Magnolia store for 2 of them.


----------



## Threefiddie

c.kingsley said:


> If device X works fine with player A and not player B, it doesn't logically follow that device X is the problem. Substitute real names for variables and I think you will be able to figure this logical puzzle out.


Not sure why the jerk analogy...or why talking about his projector in both threads brings out the rudeness in people, but when epson has said publicly they are working on a fix and firmware update for those exact problems in regards to hdr... i don't know how much easier than can be to understand.


----------



## royboy365

Docj04 said:


> OK fellas.
> I really would prefer to go with the 135" screen over the 120". I'm looking at the Cinegrey 3D screen.
> Epson's projector calculator indicates a minimum throw of 13'4. Elite Screen recommends 1.5x the viewing width--so 117 x 1.5 /12 = 14.6' minimum.
> 
> With my basement layout, I'd be right at the minimum of 14-15' throw length, mounted on a 8'9" ceiling.
> Although I'm within the minimum throw distance spec for both Epson and ELite for a 135" screen--Would you suggest reducing down to the 120"?
> 
> If so, why?


I would take their suggested seating position with a grain of salt. I sit 10' away from my 150" and absolutely love it as do my wife and kids.

My two cents is go with the 135" especially with as many movies that are released in wide screen which will reduce your viewing area.


----------



## c.kingsley

Threefiddie said:


> Not sure why the jerk analogy...or why talking about his projector in both threads brings out the rudeness in people, but when epson has said publicly they are working on a fix and firmware update for those exact problems in regards to hdr... i don't know how much easier than can be to understand.


If explaining the facts in a simple way makes me a jerk you should consider moving along.


----------



## Threefiddie

it's the unnecessary manner that you come across as... you could have just added to conversation rather than trying to belittle and be rude. anyways... that's what epson has said. you can choose to believe what they have said or not. hdr support for other players will be in a firmware update at some point for the projector. it's a bug.


----------



## Threefiddie

it's in both threads. mentioned several times pages back. sometime early this past week and last week. it was brought up again recently because the 6040 review was using a samsung player with hdr in which no one has gotten that working either with hdr and 5040.


----------



## Threefiddie

forget it. All kinds of people are having issues with other players except for the Phillips. People have been talking to Epson and epson has it acknowledged it and are looking into it in a firmware update. the end . Now stop trying to be such an assertive know it all in these two threads.


Why is everyone so rude in this thread over this Projector? The epson vs jvc in these two threads has made everyone on edge over everything. Cut it out. It's constant poop slinging. Sucks all the fun out of discussing a hobby.


----------



## Threefiddie

Again it's in both threads and if your searching just Samsung you won't find it. It's general hdr problem with multiple players. But I'm done.


----------



## Ronman79

Cripsy666 said:


> Also, some people do not have credit cards, in which case the overnight option is not available.






aaranddeeman said:


> Are you serious? Who does not have credit card this day and age (and especially those who afford to buy a PJ worth $3k).


ME... 😱😂

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

McBadden said:


> Thanks to everyone for their advice. I will probably pick up the Oppo after its release. In the meantime I've decided to go with the Xbox One S primarily because of the added bonus of being able to play games. I understand there are potential limitations with the Xbox but since I plan to get the upcoming Oppo anyway I feel like it makes more sense for me.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


I can see the logic in your decision, and I think it's a good one. Provided you know that most likely you won't be getting what you should be (in terms of what 4K UHD discs can offer) for the time being. 
 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

royboy365 said:


> The 5040 does such an *OUTSTANDING* job of handling 1080p Blu-Ray using 4k Enhancement and one of the Image Preset Modes the that I would strongly suggest waiting for the Oppo. I've been an Oppo user since the 82 and still use it for upscaling my regular DVD's to 1080p and use the 103 and 105 in other systems.
> 
> The internals of the new 203 has been designed specifically for UHD material.
> 
> I have both the Samsung and the Phillips UHD players (picked up Phillips because of Samsung incompatibility issues) and don't see enough of a difference to between 4k disks and BluRay disks to say you are missing much and should upgrade right away.
> 
> I've been following the Oppo 203 anticipation thread and honestly don't think you will have to wait very long for it. I already put a deposit at my local Magnolia store for 2 of them.


 @MississippiMan 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## nolimithardware

Hello guys,

I don't know, if this was discussed here, but the wireless model (5040UB) has two HDMI Chips onboard and dedicates the 18 GB/s SIL9777 chipset to the wireless modul and the other lower 10,2 GB/s bandwith SIL9679 chipset to the "normal" HDMI connector on the back.

As we know, the wireless HDMI connection has the problem, that it can't pass the 18 GB/s completely over air, which therefore "downgrades" the capable chip.

My thought is, that Epson decided this way, because the people that buy the Wireless model 5040UB want to use also preferably wireless and not HDMI cables.

I ordered the 6040UB (non wireless model) and asking myself, if it even has also the 18 GB/s SIL9777 chip integrated ?
If it has, and in this case it should be routed to the HDMI connectors on the back due to the lack of wireless connection, may it not be the case, that it doesn't have the bandwith problems, which the wireless model 5040UB suffers from ?

I think it would make completely sense then.

Has anyone experience and the 6040 model at home to test it ?


----------



## gnolivos

Guys, take your personal attacks that add absolutely nothing to this discussion to PERSONAL MESSAGING. It's sickening to have to sort through all the irrelevant posts.


----------



## astrofool

I wished that Epson would make their projectors in black and white option .They have to know many have dedicated HT that have black ceilings. If the 5040 or 5030 were made in black and white that would be great.


----------



## Kelvin1000

Does anybody know how the Xbox One S performs in terms of 4K and 1080p on the 5040 without HDR?

Also, I have confirmed with Microsoft that it can support 4K on Netflix, Amazon and VUDU but I cannot find any information as far as 4K support on YouTube.

Can anyone share their experiences and let me know if these two get along well?


----------



## chiltonj

astrofool said:


> I wished that Epson would make their projectors in black and white option .They have to know many have dedicated HT that have black ceilings. If the 5040 or 5030 were made in black and white that would be great.


They do, 6040, 6030 etc. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Docj04

royboy365 said:


> I would take their suggested seating position with a grain of salt. I sit 10' away from my 150" and absolutely love it as do my wife and kids.
> 
> My two cents is go with the 135" especially with as many movies that are released in wide screen which will reduce your viewing area.


Thanks Roy.

I guess I should have indicated that my concerns lie more with image quality, projector zoom(epson will be at about 1.8/2.10), hotspotting with an ALR screen, etc.

Again--both manufacturers indicate that my throw length of ~14.5-15' is in "spec", but just barely.


----------



## Theaterfreak360

gnolivos said:


> Guys, take your personal attacks that add absolutely nothing to this discussion to PERSONAL MESSAGING. It's sickening to have to sort through all the irrelevant posts.


Man, I'm glad somebody finally stepped up and said something about this nonsense. As I'm reading through this thread, I keep thinking, "Darn, is there a moderator or somebody to curb this poor behavior and get the thread back on track?" I'm one for a little "friendly" discourse, but when it gets to the point when insults are thrown, it discourages further conversation and no longer feels communal. 

Even if someone doesn't completely have their facts straight, we can be respectful in the way that we respond to one another.

By the way...a cute emoji at the end of an insult doesn't "soften" the blow. Just sayin'.

Let's treat each other with some respect!


----------



## astrofool

chiltonj said:


> They do, 6040, 6030 etc.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



Well I know that' $1000 more though. I meant the 5040 5030 series in black.


----------



## Threefiddie

astrofool said:


> I wished that Epson would make their projectors in black and white option .They have to know many have dedicated HT that have black ceilings. If the 5040 or 5030 were made in black and white that would be great.


no kidding...but they want you to spend more money to get it in black.


----------



## brianlvi3

*UBE Wireless viewing*



gnolivos said:


> Well I did the work for you. It's in the manual
> 
> Here:


Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this but would any of those effect me as I am not familiar with those?

I only watch Bluray and Cable. Thanks for the help.


----------



## gnolivos

astrofool said:


> I wished that Epson would make their projectors in black and white option .They have to know many have dedicated HT that have black ceilings. If the 5040 or 5030 were made in black and white that would be great.




I couldn't agree more. Mine sticks out like a sore thumb in my blacked out room. Ridiculous lol. 

I wonder if we can buy the outer body panels from the 6040 and swap out.


----------



## chiltonj

astrofool said:


> Well I know that' $1000 more though. I meant the 5040 5030 series in black.


Gotcha, sry. I'm with you, I have black ceilings. Considered spray painting a white one black but I'm not willing to take that chance and resell would be harder so I'll be spending $1k over $5 can of spray paint. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## chiltonj

FWIW http://www.projectorreviews.com/com...a-5040ub-vs-jvc-dla-rs400u-comparison-review/

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## morellihugo

Hi, I'm a new member, still learning english... I want to share that Epson just post a firmware upgrade in their website for the 5040 and 6040 projectors. My projector comes from factory with Main 1.04, and Video 1.01 (I can't post pictures or links yet, but you can search "epson 5040 firmware update" in google), last night I upgrade the firmware through USB to version 1.05 and 1.03, and I realize two things, my projector is now more quiet, and the wireless HD, when I switch inputs, connects or synchronize with projector faster than before. I previously owned a Samsung UHD and I never be able to play 4K HDR, so I replaced the samsung with a Panasonic DMP-UB900. Thanks, and I hope my first contribution helps...


----------



## mase1981

morellihugo said:


> Hi, I'm a new member, still learning english... I want to share that Epson just post a firmware upgrade in their website for the 5040 and 6040 projectors. My projector comes from factory with Main 1.04, and Video 1.01 (I can't post pictures or links yet, but you can search "epson 5040 firmware update" in google), last night I upgrade the firmware through USB to version 1.05 and 1.03, and I realize two things, my projector is now more quiet, and the wireless HD, when I switch inputs, connects or synchronize with projector faster than before. I previously owned a Samsung UHD and I never be able to play 4K HDR, so I replaced the samsung with a Panasonic DMP-UB900. Thanks, and I hope my first contribution helps...


Thank you Sir ! i wish there was a "changelog" somewhere...


----------



## c.kingsley

Link referenced above:

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supAdvice.jsp?type=highlights¬eoid=289381


----------



## ccotenj

just a customer service note. i have the "noise with 4k enhancement" issue. 

i described the issue, the rep talked to the next person up, came back on the line and said "we will be overnighting you a new projector". 

less than 20 minutes, total.

color me happy.


----------



## Mike Garrett

mase1981 said:


> Their Support is out of this world !
> Which is one of the main reasons why i went with the 6040ub
> i got ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOOOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT of pressure to go with JVC from Mike and a bunch of other forum users.
> But i refused all offers and decided to stay with Epson. in particular the 6040ub from these reasons (in importance order)
> 
> 1. Customer support and exchange program.
> 2. Input lag for gaming.
> 3. Color black.
> 4. Extra bulb and mount.
> 
> i had Epson before (3010) and had zero issues.


I do not recommend the JVC to any gamer, the lag is too high.


----------



## mase1981

ccotenj said:


> just a customer service note. i have the "noise with 4k enhancement" issue.
> 
> i described the issue, the rep talked to the next person up, came back on the line and said "we will be overnighting you a new projector".
> 
> less than 20 minutes, total.
> 
> color me happy.


and THAT is why i was 120% cool with paying 1k extra for the 6040 over JVC etc


----------



## dvdwilly3

chiltonj said:


> FWIW http://www.projectorreviews.com/com...a-5040ub-vs-jvc-dla-rs400u-comparison-review/
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Thanks! Exactly the kind of thing that I have been chasing.


----------



## Josuah

It was pointed out to me today that I'm stupid. My Netflix plan was reverted from the 4S+UHD plan to 2S+HD when the grandfathering thing ended earlier this year. So my posts about not being able to get 4K Netflix from various devices are wrong in that sense. However I think they are still correct in not being able to get HDR from the Xbox One S. I might have been able to from the Shield or the Philips BDP7501.

I'm going back to edit my posts to indicate I messed up.


----------



## mcallister

The firmware on my 5040 is 105, do I need to do the update? Is 105 current?


----------



## terminal33

mcallister said:


> Had an odd issue yesterday while watching football on my 5040. I have been using cinema in normal lamp mode (is normal right the one above Eco).
> 
> I decided to put the lamp in Eco considering my friends and I are huge college football fans and the projector was going to be on all day. About 3 hours in I started noticing a flicker type effect, almost like a flashlight switching on and off every few seconds.
> 
> I tried turning off the iris and messing with some settings none of which worked and also turning off the Epson and restarting it which still didn't work. I then moved the lamp mode back up to normal and it fixed the issue.
> 
> Does this sound like something I should be worried about? I did see a previous post mentioning something that sounds similar to this and the projector needs to "break in" in Eco mode. Hopefully that's the case.


I've seen this flickering effect as well, especially during bright scenes with Eco mode. Whenever I switch to Medium, the issue goes away.


----------



## gnolivos

terminal33 said:


> I've seen this flickering effect as well, especially during bright scenes with Eco mode. Whenever I switch to Medium, the issue goes away.




That definitely sounds like lamp arcing. I think it's normal and will go away eventually.


----------



## ndabunka

mcallister said:


> The firmware on my 5040 is 105, do I need to do the update? Is 105 current?


Did you go to the link to see what version of the firmware is included? It answers your question pretty clearly.


----------



## techjoy

chiltonj said:


> Gotcha, sry. I'm with you, I have black ceilings. Considered spray painting a white one black but I'm not willing to take that chance and resell would be harder so I'll be spending $1k over $5 can of spray paint.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Plasti-Dip it. You can peel it off before selling it. It's used to paint cars, when you are tired of the color, it is easily removed without issues. Comes in flat colors too.


----------



## Labud420

I don't have a computer, like a lot of people, I have an android tablet. Any ideas on how to do a firmware upgrade?


----------



## Jackattack51

mcallister said:


> The firmware on my 5040 is 105, do I need to do the update? Is 105 current?


Based on the link, you have the latest firmware. Also, it appears your projector shipped that way. I wonder for how long people have had different firmware without knowing it.


----------



## mcallister

Jackattack51 said:


> Based on the link, you have the latest firmware. Also, it appears your projector shipped that way. I wonder for how long people have had different firmware without knowing it.


Thanks


----------



## Savatage316

So do you guys have any 4k player recommendations for the 5040? So far the whole 4k player situation seems fd up, with some not working, some not doing hdr, just seems like a serious cluster. Is the Panasonic pretty much the only one that is worth getting currently? 

Going to read thru a bit but hoping for a few direct opinions

All in all from just gaming so far I'm so impressed with this projector. Absolutely incredible how awesome this pj is for gaming


----------



## hnupe

*HELP PLEASE - What actual setting should I use to get best 4K picture?*

Hello,

Now that I have the Epson and the Philips BDP7501, I have read all 47 pages of this thread and I am very confused on how to proceed with my new toys.....Can someone please give me guidance on what "settings" I should have on the Epson and what "settings" I should have on the Philips BDP7501? Should I pay a person/company to do a calibration?

Any feed back will be appreciated.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> I wonder if we can buy the outer body panels from the 6040 and swap out.


Yup. The panels are available for an all time low price of $1,999 for the 5040 customers only..


----------



## aaranddeeman

dvdwilly3 said:


> Thanks! Exactly the kind of thing that I have been chasing.


But remember the following sentence in it though. So yeah. I want to see the side-by-side to be exact.

_*"...but not having the projectors at the same time makes that impractical for us..." *_


----------



## k3nnis

Hi All,

I can see some references in where Epson customer service is first class.

Does this quality of service also apply to Australia?

Thanks,
K.


----------



## Troy LaMont

Labud420 said:


> I don't have a computer, like a lot of people, I have an android tablet. Any ideas on how to do a firmware upgrade?


You shouldn't have any problem using an Android tablet the same as a computer, hell you can even use an Android phone! Just download the .bin file from the link provided to your tablet, attach a USB drive via an OTG USB adapter (usually $3 at most places) and then connect the USB drive to the projector.

If not, go to you local Best Buy, Frys, electronics store with a USB drive and use one of their computers, or the local library. 

I've transferred all types of files via Android to PC and other hardware, easy peezy, lemon squeezy.


----------



## ndabunka

aaranddeeman said:


> Yup. The panels are available for an all time low price of $1,999 for the 5040 customers only..


The black panels are actually only $1K more than the 5040ub and they come with an extra year of overnight warranty replacement, extra bulb and something else... just ask for the 6040ub package! :laugh:


----------



## royboy365

Docj04 said:


> Thanks Roy.
> 
> I guess I should have indicated that my concerns lie more with image quality, projector zoom(epson will be at about 1.8/2.10), hotspotting with an ALR screen, etc.
> 
> Again--both manufacturers indicate that my throw length of ~14.5-15' is in "spec", but just barely.


I use my projector on two different screens (both regular Elite Screens 1.1 gain white) from the same projector position. 

I have a long rectangular master bedroom and use a 100" screen at the foot of the bed and a 150" screen at the far end of the room. 

I find both screen sizes have excellent PQ and are bright enough to use in a room that has a fair amount of ambient lighting during the daytime. My best friend is a well known ISF Calibrator and he's been very impressed with the projector out of the box and will tweak it once i have a 100 hours on the current bulb.

As far as ALR hot spotting is concerned I can't speak with any kind of authority on it but from what little reading I have done it seems that is not an issue on all screens and depends on the technique used. Perhaps a post in the screen forum would be a good place to ask.

Distance wise you should be fine as the projector has a recessed area where connections are made and thus I'm able to shelf mount right up to the back wall given ventilation happens in the front.


----------



## aaranddeeman

ndabunka said:


> The black panels are actually only $1K more than the 5040ub and they come with an extra year of overnight warranty replacement, extra bulb and something else... just ask for the 6040ub package! :laugh:


Come on man. Don't I know that...


----------



## gnolivos

Performed update procedure today. It was a breeze. Love owning a product I can update myself. My old projector didn't allow that. Had to be sent in. Ugh.


----------



## Docj04

royboy365 said:


> I use my projector on two different screens (both regular Elite Screens 1.1 gain white) from the same projector position.
> 
> I have a long rectangular master bedroom and use a 100" screen at the foot of the bed and a 150" screen at the far end of the room.
> 
> I find both screen sizes have excellent PQ and are bright enough to use in a room that has a fair amount of ambient lighting during the daytime. My best friend is a well known ISF Calibrator and he's been very impressed with the projector out of the box and will tweak it once i have a 100 hours on the current bulb.
> 
> As far as ALR hot spotting is concerned I can't speak with any kind of authority on it but from what little reading I have done it seems that is not an issue on all screens and depends on the technique used. Perhaps a post in the screen forum would be a good place to ask.
> 
> Distance wise you should be fine as the projector has a recessed area where connections are made and thus I'm able to shelf mount right up to the back wall given ventilation happens in the front.


What would you estimate your throw length is when viewing the 150" screen?


----------



## royboy365

Docj04 said:


> What would you estimate your throw length is when viewing the 150" screen?


I'm 10' from the 100" screen and 25' from the 150" screen.

I usually use Cinema mode/Eco/-20 iris on the close one and Natural/High/0 iris on the one further away.


----------



## royboy365

Jackattack51 said:


> Based on the link, you have the latest firmware. Also, it appears your projector shipped that way. I wonder for how long people have had different firmware without knowing it.


I received my projector directly from Epson last week and it came with 103/101 and not 105/103 so my guess is not very long.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> Performed update procedure today. It was a breeze. Love owning a product I can update myself. My old projector didn't allow that. Had to be sent in. Ugh.


What does it fix/enhance?


----------



## gnolivos

My replacement unit from 4 days ago still had an older FW.


----------



## cheesenbizkitz

c.kingsley said:


> Link referenced above:
> 
> epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supAdvice.jsp?type=highlights&noteoid=289381


Does anyone know if this firmware is compatible with the Euro/Australian models of this projector, the EH-TW8300? I'm assuming it'll work because it's the same projector, just with a different name, but don't want to risk breaking anything. I can't find any firmware updates on the Australian Epson site.


----------



## McBadden

Ronman79 said:


> I can see the logic in your decision, and I think it's a good one. Provided you know that most likely you won't be getting what you should be (in terms of what 4K UHD discs can offer) for the time being.
> 
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


I feel like even if I were to pick up either the Philips or Samsung now (or even the Panasonic for that matter), I would still want the Oppo when it's released. In which case I would have the Oppo, plus another black box collecting dust. So since I would like a gaming console anyway to connect to the 5040, I might as well get one with at least some form of 4k bluray functionality. I already have a PS4, but since upcoming Pro won't have a 4k spinner I think the One S is a better for. BTW, very irritated with Sony for their decision to forego a 4k bluray in the Pro. I'm sure I'm not the only one here whose first bluray player was a PS3, which did a lot to promote the format. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

gnolivos said:


> Performed update procedure today. It was a breeze. Love owning a product I can update myself. My old projector didn't allow that. Had to be sent in. Ugh.


Can you kindly tell us what had been improved on this new firmware ? Since it is a tough reach for me to get up the ceiling to do this. If minor stuff, I would wait for the next one. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Smarty-pants

McBadden said:


> BTW, very irritated with Sony for their decision to forego a 4k bluray in the Pro. I'm sure I'm not the only one here whose first bluray player was a PS3, which did a lot to promote the format.


They already won the format war with HD DVD. There's no longer a need to put it in a gaming console anymore. 
Now they can get more buyers of their eventual 4K BD player, and you can bet there will likely be some special
features between the Pro and their 4K player to entice gamers to pony up.
Nothing but Oppo for me though. Once you go Oppo, you aren't likely to ever use another player.
They are going to sell a ton of them pretty soon.


----------



## gnolivos

ac388 said:


> Can you kindly tell us what had been improved on this new firmware ? Since it is a tough reach for me to get up the ceiling to do this. If minor stuff, I would wait for the next one. Thanks in advance.




Epson does not post change logs for firmware updates. Frustrating. So I'm sorry but I don't have an answer.


----------



## ac388

gnolivos said:


> Epson does not post change logs for firmware updates. Frustrating. So I'm sorry but I don't have an answer.


Noted with thanks. Probably something that is not major or else you would have observe it.


----------



## dimi123

ac388 said:


> Noted with thanks. Probably something that is not major or else you would have observe it.


In my experience EPSON are doing only major updates. The previous model (5030/6030/9200) had only one or two updates in 3 years.


----------



## WestCDA

ac388 said:


> Noted with thanks. Probably something that is not major or else you would have observe it.


Give Epson technical service a call and ask them - I've found them to be quite responsive. I asked what was in the last 5030 firmware update after finding it posted on an obscure Epson update page. They checked with their engineering dept. and sent me a reply the next day - it was an additional entry on one of the service menus, nothing that would affect the performance or operation of the projector. I downloaded and applied it anyway - they appear to be telling the truth, as there were no differences I could detect ...


----------



## cheesenbizkitz

epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supAdvice.jsp?type=highlights&noteoid=289381

In case anyone was wondering about the EH-TW8300/TW9300, this firmware updated my TW8300 to version 105 and 103 perfectly. Made no differences to the projector that I could detect, HDR is still not being detected properly on the Xbox One S and it didn't resolve the whirring/buzzing noise when using 4K enhancement or 4K content, projector is still pretty loud, although the fan itself seems to be a bit quieter, I'll be getting a replacement projector to fix that, but I thought I'd try my luck to see if it was somehow a software thing.


----------



## Mickey Mouse

didn't work for my German/European TW9300 (6040)...
Symptoms are as described for "wrong FW/type": when initiating the update process the projector switches off immediately (ok, after 2 or 3 seconds) and doesn't start the update.


----------



## mase1981

Those with the 5040ub (or if anyone with the 6040ub). 
which BD player is confirmed to have full 4K HDR? 
There are way too many pages to scroll to try and find the answer, trying my luck....
I have the XBOX ONE S but i understand HDR doesnt work with the 5040UB. Which BD Player is confirmed to be working? 
is it ONLY the Philips BDP7501, or is there a cheapest option that is confirmed to be working? (my sincere apologies for the i am sure already asked question).


----------



## gnolivos

Philips player works fine with Hdr based on my experience. Consider waiting a few months and see how you like bluray upscaled. In my experience the difference did not justify the $300 plus UHD discs, and I have a very acute vision and also I am very picky. Yes UHD looked crisper if you analyzed closely. Under most circumstances and most scenes, upscaled bluray appeared equal. And actually brighter compared to HdR.


----------



## Threefiddie

gnolivos said:


> Philips player works fine with Hdr based on my experience. Consider waiting a few months and see how you like bluray upscaled. In my experience the difference did not justify the $300 plus UHD discs, and I have a very acute vision and also I am very picky. Yes UHD looked crisper if you analyzed closely. Under most circumstances and most scenes, upscaled bluray appeared equal. And actually bright her compared to HdR.


sounds like when people said there was no difference between dvd and bluray back in 2006 lol. I will have to disagree with that after seeing 4k on many different device types compared to bluray.


----------



## gnolivos

Threefiddie said:


> sounds like when people said there was no difference between dvd and bluray back in 2006 lol. I will have to disagree with that after seeing 4k on many different device types compared to bluray.




Maybe it was the philips player. I didn't find it made such a huge difference like I explained. Also understand that the Epson is not a true 4K device. It doubles pixels, it doesn't quadruple like true 4K tvs etc. That's a huge difference. 200%. 

Also, I did certainly notice a more meaningful difference with the Roku and 4K content from YouTube. 

I really wasn't generalizing either... I was referring to the Philips player specifically, on the Epson specifically, with UHD Discs specifically. Just trying to help, I think people should test for themselves for sure and see if they find it worth the investment. I'd love to hear what others think as well.


----------



## leo9000

*Pixel Shift and HDR questions.*

Just got my 5040UB this past weekend. It’s ceiling mounted and projecting on a 130” Screen Innovations Slate screen. The picture really pops and looks great with Blu-rays and cable. I’m very pleased with the contrast and image is much brighter than my older Sony VPL-50. I noticed that several post mentioned the ability to turn off and on the pixel shift. I couldn’t find where to do that in the menu. I don’t want to turn it off, but would be nice to see if it is on for all the sources (blu-ray, cable, Apple TV, etc). Also, I played some 4K HDR blu-rays through my Samsung UBD-K8500. The 4K HDR does look much darker. I saw some posts that mentioned switching to HDR1, but I don’t find that either in the menu. Any suggestions?


----------



## brianlvi3

*What is the exchange program?*



mase1981 said:


> Their Support is out of this world !
> Which is one of the main reasons why i went with the 6040ub
> i got ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOOOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT of pressure to go with JVC from Mike and a bunch of other forum users.
> But i refused all offers and decided to stay with Epson. in particular the 6040ub from these reasons (in importance order)
> 
> 1. Customer support and exchange program.
> 2. Input lag for gaming.
> 3. Color black.
> 4. Extra bulb and mount.
> 
> i had Epson before (3010) and had zero issues.


What exactly is the exchange program?


----------



## mase1981

brianlvi3 said:


> What exactly is the exchange program?


They send you a replacement, shipped in 2 business days and you send back the defective in the box you received your replacement. usually, no question asked. they are pretty awesome with their support.


----------



## brianlvi3

That is really great, thanks. I wish they had a trade up program hah.


----------



## Threefiddie

google just announced chromecast ultra 4k hdr...

wonder if the hdr will work with the 5040 at all.


----------



## Josuah

mase1981 said:


> which BD player is confirmed to have full 4K HDR?


I can confirm the Philips BDP7501 will play 4K Blu-ray at BT.2020 4:2:0 10-bit HDR with the Epson 5040UB. I'm not sure about 4K HDR Netflix from the BDP7501. Someone else will have to answer that.


----------



## mase1981

Josuah said:


> I can confirm the Philips BDP7501 will play 4K Blu-ray at BT.2020 4:2:0 10-bit HDR with the Epson 5040UB. I'm not sure about 4K HDR Netflix from the BDP7501. Someone else will have to answer that.


Thank you Sir, will be buying it today !


----------



## royboy365

leo9000 said:


> Just got my 5040UB this past weekend. It’s ceiling mounted and projecting on a 130” Screen Innovations Slate screen. The picture really pops and looks great with Blu-rays and cable. I’m very pleased with the contrast and image is much brighter than my older Sony VPL-50. I noticed that several post mentioned the ability to turn off and on the pixel shift. I couldn’t find where to do that in the menu. I don’t want to turn it off, but would be nice to see if it is on for all the sources (blu-ray, cable, Apple TV, etc). Also, I played some 4K HDR blu-rays through my Samsung UBD-K8500. The 4K HDR does look much darker. I saw some posts that mentioned switching to HDR1, but I don’t find that either in the menu. Any suggestions?


If you will look at the first post of this thread after the initial specs you will find known issues and the answers to your questions.

Menu > Image > Image Enhancement > 4K Enhancement 
In that location you will also find the Image Preset Modes. Try them out. Most people like Preset 2 or 3 with some folks preferring 1 or 4. Haven't found anyone saying they like Preset 5 but try it yourself.

Menu > Signal > Advanced > Dynamic Range to choose Auto, SDR or HDR modes.


----------



## ccotenj

brianlvi3 said:


> What exactly is the exchange program?


i had a bad noise problem with mine. i called yesterday, described the issue, the rep had a few questions and put me on hold for about a minute. came back on and said "we will be overnighting you a new projector". they put a 1799 hold on a credit card, got my shipping info, and done. 

and it is here now, complete with shipping label and instructions for return of the original unit. all i gotta do is box it up and drop it at a fedex shipping location.

i've had a LOT of a/v equipment. only other companies that have touched that level of CS were bryston and mark seaton.


----------



## Number05

Well, Visions Canada has the 5040UB in their Vancouver warehouse ready for order (although it's still not listed on their website).

I showed one of the store managers the Eastporters quote and they reluctantly matched the 4300 CAD price point. The Visions store manager called Epson CAD before agreeing with the price match. There was more said about Eastporters pricing and their relationship with Epson Canada, but I don't wish to post this information.

I wanted to purchase locally as opposed to somewhere else.

Looks like I'll place my order with Visions later this week...


----------



## ndabunka

Smarty-pants said:


> Nothing but Oppo for me though. Once you go Oppo, you aren't likely to ever use another player. They are going to sell a ton of them pretty soon.


Oppo is good but they still need to bring their product to market at a competitive rate likely (e.g. lower than $399) otherwise many here will simply buy the Phillips at the $250 price point.


----------



## Mickey Mouse

leo9000 said:


> I played some 4K HDR blu-rays through my Samsung UBD-K8500. The 4K HDR does look much darker. I saw some posts that mentioned switching to HDR1, but I don’t find that either in the menu. Any suggestions?


K8500 and the Epson don't really work together 
the K8500 isn't able to output something different than 4:4:4 which exceeds the 10Gbit limit of the Epson HDMI input circuits. Therefore the data is reduced to 8bits and screws up the whole color/gamma stuff completely.

in my opinion it's impossible to get an acceptable picture quality with the Samsung/Epson couple (via HDMI wire, the wireless transmission seems to work), regardless of the settings! Even if you manage to get a "bright" picture by dirty tricks, the picture looks odd (gamma, contrast etc. nothing fits).

i owned a Samsung myself and swapped it for the Panasonic UB900 which works perfectly fine without any fancy adjustments.
unfortunately the Philips/Funai Player is not available her in Germany (yet), for now we have to choose between Samsung/Panasonic...


----------



## shepdog

ndabunka said:


> Oppo is good but they still need to bring their product to market at a competitive rate likely (e.g. lower than $399) otherwise many here will simply buy the Phillips at the $250 price point.




Everything I can see has the OPPO at 499. 

If it does some of the functions that the hdfury does as has been reported, than the OPPO will be ordered immediately. I've waited because I have confidence they will get it right.


----------



## Hellohowareyou

Number05 said:


> Well, Visions Canada has the 5040UB in their Vancouver warehouse ready for order (although it's still not listed on their website).
> 
> I showed one of the store managers the Eastporters quote and they reluctantly matched the 4300 CAD price point. The Visions store manager called Epson CAD before agreeing with the price match. There was more said about Eastporters pricing and their relationship with Epson Canada, but I don't wish to post this information.
> 
> I wanted to purchase locally as opposed to somewhere else.
> 
> Looks like I'll place my order with Visions later this week...


Kinda funny, don't you think? Looking at your signature, it seems to me that you may have purchased from Eastporters before. While Visions is now your new found love because they are local, through this process of them "matching" the price of Eastporters, Visions is trying nothing but to kill a credible competitor in the projector market by complaining to Epson Canada about Eastporters pricing. Epson Canada, while by the way, has a ridiculous pricing on the 5040ub to begin with, if you compare with the US pricing, but you already knew all of it.

To me, if a big company like Visions has to reluctantly resort to match a quote (not even beating it), it really is a disservice to Eastporters who gave you a quote, with all the best intent without trying to match. Guess what, if you now go to Eastporters and ask them to get better, they will perhaps give you some small discount on top of what you've already received. How far can you take it?


----------



## Number05

Hellohowareyou said:


> Kinda funny, don't you think? Looking at your signature, it seems to me that you have purchased from Eastporters before. While Visions is now your new found love because they are local, through this process of them "matching" the price of Eastporters, Visions is trying nothing but to kill a credible competitor in the projector market by complaining to Epson Canada. Epson Canada, while by the way, has a ridiculous pricing on the 5040ub to begin with, if you compare with the US pricing, but you already knew all of it.
> 
> To me, if a big company like Visions has to reluctantly match a quote, it really is a disservice to Eastporters who gave you a quote, with all the best intent without trying to match. Guess what, if you now go to Eastporters and ask them to get better, they will perhaps give you some small discount on top of what you've already received.


Nope, not at all - never purchased from them at all.

Don't assume.

I'd gladly purchase from Eastporters if they offered financing; Which they don't.


----------



## Hellohowareyou

Number05 said:


> Nope, not at all - never purchased from them at all.
> 
> Don't assume.


Then why contacting them and get a quote? And you didn't even do that? 

PS pardon me for my outburst. When a company like Eastporters, who are well discussed in these forums as a retailer providing great pricing on otherwise out of reach projectors, seem to get the flak from manufacturers like Epson (who force a pricing on consumers), it seems unfair. Eastporters might as well be forced to be out of Epson's business by going against their agreement. Yes I bought a few products from Eastporters. My experience with them has not been fully ideal, but I respect their competitive pricing.


----------



## Smarty-pants

ndabunka said:


> Oppo is good but they still need to bring their product to market at a competitive rate likely (e.g. lower than $399) otherwise many here will simply buy the Phillips at the $250 price point.


Well we won't get into the plethora of features that Oppo players have over other players, their build quality, their history of longevity, their great warranty, resale value, stellar customer support, etc...
I think their new player will offer some features that other UHD players do not, but the same principles still apply to the same comparisons to earlier models of their players. They always offer more for the price paid. To some it's worth it and to others it's not.
Many people who own or plan to own the new Epson and JVC projectors will find the new Oppo to be the perfect companion player.


----------



## Hellohowareyou

Smarty-pants said:


> Many people who own or plan to own the new Epson and JVC projectors will find the new Oppo to be the perfect companion player.


Fingers crossed.


----------



## cdelena

Smarty-pants said:


> Well we won't get into the plethora of features that Oppo players have over other players, their build quality, their history of longevity, their great warranty, resale value, stellar customer support, etc...
> I think their new player will offer some features that other UHD players do not, but the same principles still apply to the same comparisons to earlier models of their players. They always offer more for the price paid. To some it's worth it and to others it's not.
> Many people who own or plan to own the new Epson and JVC projectors will find the new Oppo to be the perfect companion player.


I paid the top price for an OPPO several years ago and five years later could not play some selections because it could not handle security implemented with branching (lionsgate). I got rid of it and won't buy another.


----------



## ricjor1

I currently have an Epson 5030ub and was wondering if the 5040 was really worth it? Are the differences significant between the models? Keep the 5030, get the 5040, or get the 6040?


----------



## Cripsy666

Hellohowareyou said:


> Then why contacting them and get a quote? And you didn't even do that?
> 
> PS pardon me for my outburst. When a company like Eastporters, who are well discussed in these forums as a retailer providing great pricing on otherwise out of reach projectors, seem to get the flak from manufacturers like Epson (who force a pricing on consumers), it seems unfair. Eastporters might as well be forced to be out of Epson's business by going against their agreement. Yes I bought a few products from Eastporters. My experience with them has not been fully ideal, but I respect their competitive pricing.




I love Eastporters.. I recently just decided to buy the JVC DLA-X550 from them (RS400). After all the current Epson issues, the JVC was a no brainer. I have had 2 JVCs in the past (both from Eastporters) and I have loved each of them with no problems at all. They have fantastic pricing without the crazy markups. They had the 550 (RS 400) on sale for $3800 CDN ($2880 US) with FREE shipping!!


----------



## Smarty-pants

cdelena said:


> I paid the top price for an OPPO several years ago and five years later could not play some selections because it could not handle security implemented with branching (lionsgate). I got rid of it and won't buy another.


You gotta be kidding me right? How is it the fault of the OEM that the authorization of seamless branching with Dolby TrueHD was implemented AFTER the player was manufactured? Oppo even tried to fix the issue but couldn't because the older hardware could not do the necessary processing. Not only that, but you leave the part out where you can simply use PCM output instead of bitstream and the audio still worked just fine and sounded identical. It's just a matter of decoding the audio in the player instead of the AVR.
Then there is the fact that the player was 5 YEARS OLD, lol (3 years past it's 2 year warranty).
With a market that changes continuously, the fact that it was great for 5 years is a pretty good time span,
and it still functioned perfectly with the only caveat is that it could not handle certain aspects of certain discs because their
encoding structure was changed YEARS after the player was manufactured.
Now, just as a comparative example, go buy one of the UHD players on the market right now and then see how great it is 5 years from now. 
Most OEMs drop support like a hot potato within a year and Oppo essentially supports their products for life.


----------



## filter_sweep

Just want to thank whoever mentioned giving Best Buy a try. I talked to a salesman in the Magnolia section and got him to reduce the price to account for sales tax (so final price would be same as buying over the internet). There are no 5040's in stock in all of Houston so they are overnighting the projector to me from Ohio (for free) and I should have it tomorrow. The big reason I did this though was to sign up for the rewards program and get 10% rewards back on the first purchase... by my estimation the points should be in my account well before black Friday so I can use them to pick up either the Philips UHD or game console if I decide to hold out for the Oppo. I may get the Philips player anyway and sell it after the Oppo starts supporting 4k/HDR streaming of Netflix etc.... I don't have anything else that can stream 4k and not sure how long I'll want to wait. 


My screen is supposed to arrive tomorrow as well so might be a couple days before it's all hooked up, will come back and post impressions when I do. This will be my first projector, coming from a 6 year old Samsung plasma, I'm not expecting that level of quality but am excited for the theater experience of a 150" screen with 7.2.4 atmos!


----------



## Hellohowareyou

Cripsy666 said:


> I love Eastporters.. I recently just decided to buy the JVC DLA-X550 from them (RS400). After all the current Epson issues, the JVC was a no brainer. I have had 2 JVCs in the past (both from Eastporters) and I have loved each of them with no problems at all. They have fantastic pricing without the crazy markups. They had the 550 (RS 400) on sale for $3800 CDN ($2880 US) with FREE shipping!!


Careful buddy. This is an official 5040 forum, also read as, hate any mention of anything JVC, irrespective of how weak the Epsons' price to performance ratio is compared to some well established makes and models. Of course there's another thread where things have been discussed to death about this. I especially have to scratch my head for Canadians pursuing the 5040, but this is not the place to discuss this.


----------



## Viche

Josuah said:


> I can confirm the Philips BDP7501 will play 4K Blu-ray at BT.2020 4:2:0 10-bit HDR with the Epson 5040UB. I'm not sure about 4K HDR Netflix from the BDP7501. Someone else will have to answer that.


Strange. According to the chart below, 4k 24fps 4:2:0 10-bit isn't a format that HDMI will accept. Does the Phillips send it as 4:4:4 8-bit?


----------



## cdelena

Smarty-pants said:


> You gotta be kidding me right? How is it the fault of the OEM that the authorization of seamless branching with Dolby TrueHD was implemented AFTER the player was manufactured? Oppo even tried to fix the issue but couldn't because the older hardware could not do the necessary processing. Not only that, but you leave the part out where you can simply use PCM output instead of bitstream and the audio still worked just fine and sounded identical. It's just a matter of decoding the audio in the player instead of the AVR.
> Then there is the fact that the player was 5 YEARS OLD, lol (3 years past it's 2 year warranty).
> With a market that changes continuously, the fact that it was great for 5 years is a pretty good time span,
> and it still functioned perfectly with the only caveat is that it could not handle certain aspects of certain discs because their
> encoding structure was changed YEARS after the player was manufactured.
> Now, just as a comparative example, go buy one of the UHD players on the market right now and then see how great it is 5 years from now.
> Most OEMs drop support like a hot potato within a year and Oppo essentially supports their products for life.[/QUOT
> 
> Sorry to offend you. I was disappointed enough to swear off the brand. I bought a Sony for less than 20% of the premium Oppo price and it played everything and streams all still 5 years later. I'll see what UHD unit I buy but it won't be an Oppo. To each their own.


----------



## ndabunka

Smarty-pants said:


> Well we won't get into the plethora of features that Oppo players have over other players, their build quality, their history of longevity, their great warranty, resale value, stellar customer support, etc...
> I think their new player will offer some features that other UHD players do not, but the same principles still apply to the same comparisons to earlier models of their players. They always offer more for the price paid. To some it's worth it and to others it's not.
> Many people who own or plan to own the new Epson and JVC projectors will find the new Oppo to be the perfect companion player.


Don't get me wrong. Features can be worth additional value and thus a higher price. That was why I said $399 rather than thinking that they would need to be closer to the $250 street price of the Phillips. It's all just WAG right now anyway. Sure wish they would at least provide an announcement date even if it is "Christmas '16".

Panasonic's UB900 is a good example of where they COMPLETELY missed the pricing target and now they are scrambling to put out a more reasonably priced alternative so that they have a viable product. I think under $400 will get Oppo as much business as they can handle. $499 will get them fewer buyers as those people will just pick up the Phillips. $699 will limit their buyers to only those also considering the Panasonic. Most, who have the choice, have already voted with their wallets that the Panny is not THAT much better than the Phillips so many of those are buying the more economical Phillips units.


----------



## Smarty-pants

cdelena said:


> Sorry to offend you. I was disappointed enough to swear off the brand. I bought a Sony for less than 20% of the premium Oppo price and it played everything and streams all still 5 years later. I'll see what UHD unit I buy but it won't be an Oppo. To each their own.


Lol, I'm not offended, just posting information. Your reasoning for not using a brand (whether it's Oppo or any other brand)
isn't justified by the product not working with something that wasn't even invented until years after the player was manufactured.
Yes to each their own decision and choice but other readers deserve to know the facts surrounding your claims since you didn't post them.


----------



## Craig Peer

Smarty-pants said:


> Lol, I'm not offended, just posting information. Your reasoning for not using a brand (whether it's Oppo or any other brand)
> isn't justified by the product not working with something that wasn't even invented until years after the player was manufactured.
> Yes to each their own decision and choice but other readers deserve to know the facts surrounding your claims since you didn't post them.


Oppo has been the most reliable BR player I've ever owned, and they update firmware when needed. I wouldn't own anything else at this point ( had a BDP 83 for ears, and now a BDP 103 ). Bought it after my first BR player - a Panasonic - died 2 months out of warranty. I've never looked back. I'm looking forward to the 4K player later this year!


----------



## Smarty-pants

ndabunka said:


> Don't get me wrong. Features can be worth additional value and thus a higher price. That was why I said $399 rather than thinking that they would need to be closer to the $250 street price of the Phillips. It's all just WAG right now anyway. Sure wish they would at least provide an announcement date even if it is "Christmas '16".
> 
> Panasonic's UB900 is a good example of where they COMPLETELY missed the pricing target and now they are scrambling to put out a more reasonably priced alternative so that they have a viable product. I think under $400 will get Oppo as much business as they can handle. $499 will get them fewer buyers as those people will just pick up the Phillips. $699 will limit their buyers to only those also considering the Panasonic. Most, who have the choice, have already voted with their wallets that the Panny is not THAT much better than the Phillips so many of those are buying the more economical Phillips units.


Oppo doesn't do street dates. They develop their products and when they are ready for consumer use, then they go up for sale.
I find it offensive that other OEMs release their products with major flaws and bugs, then proceed to attempt to fix those issues
off the backs of paying customers who act as beta testers (if such bugs ever get fixed at all).
Yes there are always some bugs with every product, but many OEMs will release products with known major issues
just to get it out and get money in their pockets.
Oppo doesn't do that, and in the past they have kept quiet until the product is ready, then release it with little to no advanced
announcement. Then of course people say why didn't you give us any info before you released it, lol.
They always want it both ways, but in the modern world of engineering and product development, it doesn't always work that way,
and OEMs want to get it out asap so the technology can be used and not outdated by the time it's released.

So you want Oppo to give you a release date of "Christmas" and then what if it's ready in November?
The release date would then be pointless if they released it early.
On the other hand if it is delayed do to software engineering bugs that took longer to fix than anticipated,
and it doesn't get released until January, then you'll be mad because they didn't hit their projected date. 

Yes if Oppo prices their player lower they will get more sales. That is true for ANY product, but isn't necessary when they know
how much business they will already get, how their product compares to others on the market, and how willing people are to 
pay whatever they reasonably ask for a player that is better than all the rest.
That's like saying a high end pre-amp that sells for $2000 should have been priced at $1000 because they would have sold more.
Oppo is priced a bit higher than most players because they are simply better on many levels.
No one is forced to pay the asking price, but pretty much everyone will want one. It's going to be quite good.
I was actually surprised when Oppo said the price would tentatively be $499. I honestly thought it would be higher. 

In all seriousness though, I am sure we are likely to get a nudge from the mods soon for being off topic,
so maybe take future comments about the Oppo UDP-203 to the 203 anticipation thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...3-uhd-blu-ray-player-anticipation-thread.html


----------



## gnolivos

Can someone give me an example of how the Blanking option would be useful?


----------



## ndabunka

I agree it should be in that thread so I will end my comments on it in this thread and pick them up over there.


----------



## Threefiddie

and the thread is back to poo slinging again


----------



## Savatage316

So it's confirmed the Xbox One S doesn't work with the 5040?


----------



## Number05

Hellohowareyou said:


> Then why contacting them and get a quote? And you didn't even do that?
> 
> PS pardon me for my outburst. When a company like Eastporters, who are well discussed in these forums as a retailer providing great pricing on otherwise out of reach projectors, seem to get the flak from manufacturers like Epson (who force a pricing on consumers), it seems unfair. Eastporters might as well be forced to be out of Epson's business by going against their agreement. Yes I bought a few products from Eastporters. My experience with them has not been fully ideal, but I respect their competitive pricing.


As I mentioned, I would of gone with Eastporters, but Visions offer's the financing. I have used Best Buy in the past due to this too.

I am not knocking Eastporters, I just don't have a spare 5k+ sitting in my back wallet as of today. If I could spread payments over a year, it's works for me.


----------



## c.kingsley

Savatage316 said:


> So it's confirmed the Xbox One S doesn't work with the 5040?


It is not passing HDR correctly. It may or may not be updated. But the XB1 S has other flaws, including not supporting bitstream output so no Atmos support. As a UHD player it is not the best option currently. The HDR issues may be fixed via firmware but it will never support bitstream, that's just not how the XB1 works. In my opinion, one should wait for the Scorpio as it pertains to gaming and buy a different player in the meantime.


----------



## cheesenbizkitz

Savatage316 said:


> So it's confirmed the Xbox One S doesn't work with the 5040?


It works, I'm using it as my main viewing device for this projector. It just doesn't detect HDR properly, so won't output it. 
4k/60hz works, UHD blu rays play perfectly and Netflix 4K streaming works just all without HDR.


----------



## gnolivos

I can confirm that the latest firmware 1.05 handles motorized lens shift differently than v 1.03. In a good way. 

Before, changing directions left/right or up/down was erratic. Now it's much more controlled.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> I can confirm that the latest firmware 1.05 handles motorized lens shift differently than v 1.03. In a good way.
> 
> Before, changing directions left/right or up/down was erratic. Now it's much more controlled.


Aa Ha. Good to know. Thanks for sharing..


----------



## Dws6

ndabunka said:


> Oppo is good but they still need to bring their product to market at a competitive rate likely (e.g. lower than $399) otherwise many here will simply buy the Phillips at the $250 price point.



Maybe some will but that's like saying Mercedes should price the E class to compete with the Accord. Oppo is a top tier product so I don't think they feel they need to compete at the same price point. I don't remember much of the specs on the new unit but I would imagine there is additional value to warrant it. Much of that maybe the fact it will probably work flawlessly out of the box. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

cheesenbizkitz said:


> It works, I'm using it as my main viewing device for this projector. It just doesn't detect HDR properly, so won't output it.
> 4k/60hz works, UHD blu rays play perfectly and Netflix 4K streaming works just all without HDR.


But no handshake issues or anything? Yea I knew about the hdr situation, but 4k video still looks stunning correct using it? 

I'm more of a Pc gamer so scorpio isn't something I'd buy, to the guy above. But I do want right now a good 4k player, the perk to the S is I still do play halo so it'd mainly just be used for halo gaming as Pc and ps4 are my main game platforms

If HDR is the only thing it lacks and atmos support, is that a deal breaker for most? I mean the standalones aren't impressing me much either, cept the 700 dollar Panasonic but I just can't buy into that much for a standalone


----------



## 5mark

gnolivos said:


> Can someone give me an example of how the Blanking option would be useful?


The most useful example would be watching a multi-AR film on a scope screen (such as The Dark Knight). The black bar area can be "blanked" so it doesn't spill off the screen when it opens up to 16:9.

On a 16:9 screen, it could be used to zoom scope movies a little larger and maintain a clean look with no overspill on the sides.


----------



## gnolivos

5mark said:


> The most useful example would be watching a multi-AR film on a scope screen (such as The Dark Knight). The black bar area can be "blanked" so it doesn't spill off the screen when it opens up to 16:9.
> 
> 
> 
> On a 16:9 screen, it could be used to zoom scope movies a little larger and maintain a clean look with no overspill on the sides.




Ah thanks! I can see how that would be helpful. I was disappointed initially thinking it would completely turn off pixels, which would eliminate any trace of grey bars on 2.35:1 movies.


----------



## ac388

WestCDA said:


> Give Epson technical service a call and ask them - I've found them to be quite responsive. I asked what was in the last 5030 firmware update after finding it posted on an obscure Epson update page. They checked with their engineering dept. and sent me a reply the next day - it was an additional entry on one of the service menus, nothing that would affect the performance or operation of the projector. I downloaded and applied it anyway - they appear to be telling the truth, as there were no differences I could detect ...


I did call Epson Hong Kong yesterday morning here n even attached the US Epson link for them to try it out. They replied in the afternoon(quite quick response) n said their unit here cannot read the file n will ask Japan if there will be one for HK soon. The stupid thing for me is ... when I get home n checked the firmware in my unit last night, it already had 105 n 103 on it :laugh:


----------



## hnupe

*Can someone respond to post 1374 please?*

Any thoughts please?


----------



## aaranddeeman

hnupe said:


> Any thoughts please?


What don't you quote it back here..?


----------



## hnupe

*Thoughts Please*



aaranddeeman said:


> What don't you quote it back here..?



Now that I have the Epson and the Philips BDP7501, I have read all 47 pages of this thread and I am very confused on how to proceed with my new toys.....Can someone please give me guidance on what "settings" I should have on the Epson and what "settings" I should have on the Philips BDP7501? Should I pay a person/company to do a calibration?


----------



## cheesenbizkitz

Savatage316 said:


> But no handshake issues or anything? Yea I knew about the hdr situation, but 4k video still looks stunning correct using it?
> 
> I'm more of a Pc gamer so scorpio isn't something I'd buy, to the guy above. But I do want right now a good 4k player, the perk to the S is I still do play halo so it'd mainly just be used for halo gaming as Pc and ps4 are my main game platforms
> 
> If HDR is the only thing it lacks and atmos support, is that a deal breaker for most? I mean the standalones aren't impressing me much either, cept the 700 dollar Panasonic but I just can't buy into that much for a standalone


Never had any handshake issues with it. Yeah, no atmos and no HDR are the only things that don't make it a great UHD player, otherwise UHD blu rays still look pretty amazing with it and this projector. Apparently they're working on an update to support bitstream audio because atmos is one of the main features of UHD blu rays now and people are starting to actually make noise about it, but who knows when they're actually going to make it happen. I remember reading somewhere that they have said that there's nothing stopping the actual hardware from doing it, so it sounds promising.


----------



## Savatage316

cheesenbizkitz said:


> Never had any handshake issues with it. Yeah, no atmos and no HDR are the only things that don't make it a great UHD player, otherwise UHD blu rays still look pretty amazing with it and this projector. Apparently they're working on an update to support bitstream audio because atmos is one of the main features of UHD blu rays now and people are starting to actually make noise about it, but who knows when they're actually going to make it happen. I remember reading somewhere that they have said that there's nothing stopping the actual hardware from doing it, so it sounds promising.


Hdr can also be fixed as well correct, it's just a matter of MS doing tho right? 

Here's my main question, when it comes to 4k uhd movies without hdr, this player is as good as any compared to stand alones correct? I just don't feel like spending 700 on a standalone, as long as this player does 4k uhd just as good then I'll probably grab the XBS.


----------



## nickoakdl

Savatage316 said:


> Hdr can also be fixed as well correct, it's just a matter of MS doing tho right?
> 
> Here's my main question, when it comes to 4k uhd movies without hdr, this player is as good as any compared to stand alones correct? I just don't feel like spending 700 on a standalone, as long as this player does 4k uhd just as good then I'll probably grab the XBS.


The XBOX won't do Dolby Atmos or DTS X, which is a deal breaker for some.


----------



## k3nnis

nickoakdl said:


> The XBOX won't do Dolby Atmos or DTS X, which is a deal breaker for some.




What audio can it do? Only dts and dolby digital?

Can it do dtshdma and Dolby true HD?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

hnupe said:


> Now that I have the Epson and the Philips BDP7501, I have read all 47 pages of this thread and I am very confused on how to proceed with my new toys.....Can someone please give me guidance on what "settings" I should have on the Epson and what "settings" I should have on the Philips BDP7501? Should I pay a person/company to do a calibration?


Simply pop a movie in and watch it. You don't HAVE to do ...anything else. Of course you always could read what others have done, try that yourself and then decide if you like those settings. You are also welcome to pay someone to calibrate it but you may not actually see much if any difference.


----------



## Josuah

Viche said:


> Strange. According to the chart below, 4k 24fps 4:2:0 10-bit isn't a format that HDMI will accept. Does the Phillips send it as 4:4:4 8-bit?


I don't know about the table, but 4K Blu-ray is pretty much 4Kp24 4:2:0 10-bit. And I believe that is what the HDFury Integral was reporting when I was playing a 4K disc.



hnupe said:


> Now that I have the Epson and the Philips BDP7501, I have read all 47 pages of this thread and I am very confused on how to proceed with my new toys.....Can someone please give me guidance on what "settings" I should have on the Epson and what "settings" I should have on the Philips BDP7501? Should I pay a person/company to do a calibration?


The BDP7501 will automatically do the right thing when plugged into HDMI #1 on the 5040UB and playing a 4K Blu-ray disc. You will probably want to manually select HDR Mode 1 but other than that you don't have to do anything special to get it to work.


----------



## terminal33

Ok I did some comparisons with the 1080p blu ray and 4K blu ray of The Revenant. My overall impression is that the e-shift of the standard blu ray is outstanding. I almost prefer the 1080p disc instead of the 4K since it has a brighter picture. While I do see a bit more detail and clarity in the 4K image, I'm not sure if it's worth it enough to keep the Philips player. I'm leaning towards returning it and waiting for the Oppo. In the meantime I would just keep e-shifting standard blu rays and get the new Roku box coming out this week for 4K streaming. Anyway, here are some screen shot comparisons. (I don't think I picked the best scenes necessarily, but I haven't seen the movie yet. I've just been doing scene demos.) Also, is The Revenant a darker looking movie to begin with? I'm waiting for my rentals of Lucy and The Shallows in 4K to come in. I've read about how incredible those look and I'm assuming those would be brighter? Settings are:

-bright cinema 
-eco lamp
-image enhancement 5
-gamma level at - 1 
-minimal lighting 
-106" Silver Ticket 1.1 gain screen
-pics taken with Galaxy S7 

1080p









4K 









1080p









4K









1080p









4K









*I then decided to change the gamma from - 1 to 1 to help brighten the 4K image. 

Gamma the at - 1









Gamma at 1









*Then just for fun I did the same with the 1080p images. 

Gamma at - 1









Gamma at 1









Well, I'm not sure if you can tell or not, but the 1080p discs look amazing... so amazing that I'm really considering waiting for the Oppo 4K player before I start purchasing 4K discs. On a side note: Does anyone else find it easier to be impressed with images with aspect ratios that fill up the whole screen? It's harder for me to appreciate and be wowed by images with the letterbox format. This may be a reason why The Revenant in 4K doesn't impressive me as much as it should.  

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## astrofool

In the first set of pics of the men cutting up the meat the 4k look quite a bit sharper, Look behind the dog at the tree line way in the back' it looks much cleaner as most stuff in the distance does. But in all the others I cant see much better sharpness of the 4k shots. All the 4k shots look darker though. Interesting.


----------



## aaranddeeman

astrofool said:


> In the first set of pics of the men cutting up the meat the 4k look quite a bit sharper, Look behind the dog at the tree line way in the back' it looks much cleaner as most stuff in the distance does. But in all the others I cant see much better sharpness of the 4k shots. All the 4k shots look darker though. Interesting.


I have to agree to that.
Also the gamma -1 looks too blue (at least in the pictures) on 1080P images.


----------



## chiltonj

Terminal33-thanks for taking the time and posting this info, very helpful. The Revenant is a darker movie btw. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## jsil

The current Xbox One or S doesn't support direct bitstreaming for audio formats need to set it to PCM out. This will give you lossless audio but no Dolby Atmos and DTS:X yet. You just won't see DD True HD or dts:MA on your receiver, since it's being decoded internally. Need to wait for an update from MS for Dolby Atmos & DTS:X.


----------



## leo9000

royboy365 said:


> If you will look at the first post of this thread after the initial specs you will find known issues and the answers to your questions.
> 
> Menu > Image > Image Enhancement > 4K Enhancement
> In that location you will also find the Image Preset Modes. Try them out. Most people like Preset 2 or 3 with some folks preferring 1 or 4. Haven't found anyone saying they like Preset 5 but try it yourself.
> 
> Menu > Signal > Advanced > Dynamic Range to choose Auto, SDR or HDR modes.


Great, thanks for the info.


----------



## leo9000

Mickey Mouse said:


> K8500 and the Epson don't really work together
> the K8500 isn't able to output something different than 4:4:4 which exceeds the 10Gbit limit of the Epson HDMI input circuits. Therefore the data is reduced to 8bits and screws up the whole color/gamma stuff completely.
> 
> in my opinion it's impossible to get an acceptable picture quality with the Samsung/Epson couple (via HDMI wire, the wireless transmission seems to work), regardless of the settings! Even if you manage to get a "bright" picture by dirty tricks, the picture looks odd (gamma, contrast etc. nothing fits).
> 
> i owned a Samsung myself and swapped it for the Panasonic UB900 which works perfectly fine without any fancy adjustments.
> unfortunately the Philips/Funai Player is not available her in Germany (yet), for now we have to choose between Samsung/Panasonic...


I went out and got the Philips player last night and it works great with the Epson. Was playing some scenes from The Revenant 4K Blu-ray and it looked amazing. I set the Epson to HDR1.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## Threefiddie

hdr works on the xbox...just not on the xbox and this projector....


----------



## mase1981

Getting my projector (6040ub) tomorrow !!! 
Purchased the Phillips BD UHD player last night...

A quick question for those who have the Phillips if they can please confirm...
Are you guys going through a receiver or directly from BD Player into projector? 

Purchased the phillips to get HDR 4k since the xbox one S is known to NOT work. 
But i will have it running through Yamaha 2060BL and i was wondering if the Yamaha is supported to be working with the Epson and have 4K HDR. i really hope the Yamaha will not kill the HDR etc...

Trying to get the best working setup ! driving me nuts and i dont even have the projector yet lol .


----------



## gnolivos

mase1981 said:


> Getting my projector (6040ub) tomorrow !!!
> 
> Purchased the Phillips BD UHD player last night...
> 
> 
> 
> A quick question for those who have the Phillips if they can please confirm...
> 
> Are you guys going through a receiver or directly from BD Player into projector?
> 
> 
> 
> Purchased the phillips to get HDR 4k since the xbox one S is known to NOT work.
> 
> But i will have it running through Yamaha 2060BL and i was wondering if the Yamaha is supported to be working with the Epson and have 4K HDR. i really hope the Yamaha will not kill the HDR etc...
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to get the best working setup ! driving me nuts and i dont even have the projector yet lol .




Check rear HDMI out of your Yamaha. If it doesn't say HDCP 2.2 on it, then it won't even pass the 4K encrypted signal from UHD players. All Yamahas AFTER 2016 support it.


----------



## mase1981

gnolivos said:


> Check rear HDMI out of your Yamaha. If it doesn't say HDCP 2.2 on it, then it won't even pass the 4K signal. All Yamahas AFTER 2016 support it.


Hey friend, that is not my question. I know the yamaha pass 4K HDR. 
Let me rephrase my question, apologies for not asking more clear  

I know my yamaha pass 4K HDR, i purchased it specifically for that...
Now, we know that the XBOX 1 S and this projector is not paying nice for HDR4K, therefor i purchased the Phillips... 
But, does the PHillips pass 4K HDR when its connected directly to the Epson, or people here pass it via a compatible receiver ? 

Basically i am trying to find out if the yamaha is compatible with the Epson, or it doesnt matter....


----------



## chiltonj

gnolivos said:


> Check rear HDMI out of your Yamaha. If it doesn't say HDCP 2.2 on it, then it won't even pass the 4K encrypted signal from UHD players. All Yamahas AFTER 2016 support it.


Same problem I'm probably going to run into using a Onkyo TX NR3009 which has 1.4a HDMI.  

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Mickey Mouse

mase1981 said:


> Now, we know that the XBOX 1 S and this projector is not paying nice for HDR4K, therefor i purchased the Phillips...
> But, does the PHillips pass 4K HDR when its connected directly to the Epson, or people here pass it via a compatible receiver ?
> 
> Basically i am trying to find out if the yamaha is compatible with the Epson, or it doesnt matter....


the problem with the Xbox S and the Samsung K8500 are related to the output format these machines are using for UHD-BD HDR discs. An AVR usually doesn't change this.

i have a CX-A5100 (should do the same regarding HDMI as your 2060) and the Samsung didn't work regardless of with/without the AVR and the Panasonic player works, doesn't matter if i connect it to the projector directly or loop through the AVR. The video processing isn't active for 4K input anyway (you can switch on/of, but it doesn't change anything).

so if the Philips works in general with the Epson, the 2060 shouldn't make any difference (my guess)!


----------



## mase1981

Mickey Mouse said:


> the problem with the Xbox S and the Samsung K8500 are related to the output format these machines are using for UHD-BD HDR discs. An AVR usually doesn't change this.
> 
> i have a CX-A5100 (should do the same regarding HDMI as your 2060) and the Samsung didn't work regardless of with/without the AVR and the Panasonic player works, doesn't matter if i connect it to the projector directly or loop through the AVR. The video processing isn't active for 4K input anyway (you can switch on/of, but it doesn't change anything).
> 
> so if the Philips works in general with the Epson, the 2060 shouldn't make any difference (my guess)!


Perfect, what you wrote make sense to me. And made me feel much better ! 
Cant wait to get the 6040UB tomorrow, mount it and test it all  
everything is ready and set up ! xb1s to yamaha HDMI 1, Phillips to Yamaha HDMI2. 

now just hoping the cable i got will work, and if not we'll get into the "Hunt for the cable" game... lol.


----------



## terminal33

astrofool said:


> In the first set of pics of the men cutting up the meat the 4k look quite a bit sharper, Look behind the dog at the tree line way in the back' it looks much cleaner as most stuff in the distance does. But in all the others I cant see much better sharpness of the 4k shots. All the 4k shots look darker though. Interesting.


Yes, I agree. It seems that is where 4K outshines 1080p the most on this projector. With 4K, the backgrounds are more detailed and clear. But the foreground images are very similar since the e-shift seems to do wonders. 



chiltonj said:


> Terminal33-thanks for taking the time and posting this info, very helpful. The Revenant is a darker movie btw.


I see, thanks. I have Risen 4K so I'll check that out tonight.


----------



## gnolivos

I found upper and lower black body casing for the 5040 for $150 shipped. Will give it a go!


----------



## gnolivos

Is there a consensus yet on the best 3D glasses for the 5040/6040? I want something light, not too bulky. Comfortable.


----------



## leo9000

gnolivos said:


> Is there a consensus yet on the best 3D glasses for the 5040/6040? I want something light, not too bulky. Comfortable.


I received my order of the Samsung SSG-5100GB 3D Active Glasses yesterday and they paired fine with the 5040. They are very light-weight,comfortable, and inexpensive.


----------



## mase1981

Anyone knows if the old EPSON 3D active glasses will work with the 5040 or 6040? 
these glasses: 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FHCUZ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Savatage316

Well I ordered an XB1S for now, need my halo fix. But probably going to eventually get the Oppo. 

Bought Revenant tho, stoked to see what this projector can do with 4k movies


----------



## JewDaddy

mase1981 said:


> Anyone knows if the old EPSON 3D active glasses will work with the 5040 or 6040?
> these glasses:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FHCUZ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


They work great!

These are probably my favorites:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7YT7BU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## mase1981

JewDaddy said:


> mase1981 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone knows if the old EPSON 3D active glasses will work with the 5040 or 6040?
> these glasses:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FHCUZ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> They work great!
> 
> These are probably my favorites:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7YT7BU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...

Thanks for confirming man  I got 6 of them from my 3010, glad I dont need to re buy


----------



## WestCDA

gnolivos said:


> I found upper and lower black body casing for the 5040 for $150 shipped. Will give it a go!


Is it a secret, or a one-off deal? I'm sure there are others that would be interested in doing the same ...


----------



## gnolivos

JewDaddy said:


> They work great!
> 
> 
> 
> These are probably my favorites:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7YT7BU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1




These appear to be the same? HISHOCK
Hi-SHOCK RF Pro "Black Heaven" | 3D active glasses for EPSON Projector Powerlite Home Cinema 2000, 2030, 2040, 2045, 3000, 3500, 4030, 4040, 5020, 5030, 5040, 6030 [120 Hz | rechargeable | 32 g] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013R9VTRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qWu9xb3X0858J


----------



## Ronman79

ndabunka said:


> Oppo is good but they still need to bring their product to market at a competitive rate likely (e.g. lower than $399) otherwise many here will simply buy the Phillips at the $250 price point.


The Oppo should be really good, if all others are an indication. I've been planning for quite some time to make my next player an Oppo. Their processing with the Mediatec chipset, attention to detail, and overall quality is something that just exceeds others. There's talk of both HDR formats being supported at some point, and also of being able to strip HDR from UHD Blu-ray (instead of the Fury Integral that some are going with). It's going to be $499, but for someone who knows what Oppo is all about, that's a price they're willing to pay, and gladly. I agree that many will go a less expensive route, and that's ok too....

Update: Seems this topic ran a little bit. Sorry, was just responding as I was catching up.


----------



## evoZip

Ronman79 said:


> The Oppo should be really good, if all others are an indication. I've been planning for quite some time to make my next player an Oppo. Their processing with the Mediatec chipset, attention to detail, and overall quality is something that just exceeds others. There's talk of both HDR formats being supported at some point, and also of being able to strip HDR from UHD Blu-ray (instead of the Fury Integral that some are going with). It's going to be $499, but for someone who knows what Oppo is all about, that's a price they're willing to pay, and gladly. I agree that many will go a less expensive route, and that's ok too....
> 
> Update: Seems this topic ran a little bit. Sorry, was just responding as I was catching up.


Considering the Panny 900 comes in at $700, $499--if it comes as expected--, would be a DEAL for the Oppo.


----------



## royboy365

hnupe said:


> Now that I have the Epson and the Philips BDP7501, I have read all 47 pages of this thread and I am very confused on how to proceed with my new toys.....Can someone please give me guidance on what "settings" I should have on the Epson and what "settings" I should have on the Philips BDP7501? Should I pay a person/company to do a calibration?


Get some hours on the projector before paying someone to calibrate it. My guy suggested 100 hours first.


----------



## sunnyvali

mase1981 said:


> Getting my projector (6040ub) tomorrow !!!
> Purchased the Phillips BD UHD player last night...
> 
> A quick question for those who have the Phillips if they can please confirm...
> Are you guys going through a receiver or directly from BD Player into projector?
> 
> Purchased the phillips to get HDR 4k since the xbox one S is known to NOT work.
> But i will have it running through Yamaha 2060BL and i was wondering if the Yamaha is supported to be working with the Epson and have 4K HDR. i really hope the Yamaha will not kill the HDR etc...
> 
> Trying to get the best working setup ! driving me nuts and i dont even have the projector yet lol .


I have the Phillips routed through my Pioneer SC-95 receiver. No issues at all. I do remember that I have turned off 4K upscaling on the receiver. Just wanted the native video signal to pass-thru.


----------



## Ashma

5mark said:


> The most useful example would be watching a multi-AR film on a scope screen (such as The Dark Knight). The black bar area can be "blanked" so it doesn't spill off the screen when it opens up to 16:9.
> 
> On a 16:9 screen, it could be used to zoom scope movies a little larger and maintain a clean look with no overspill on the sides.


Where can one find more information about this feature? I want to be able to watch movies like the TDK an Interstellar on my 2.35:1 screen but hear that when the image shifts to the IMAX the picture will overflow above and below. Does the blanking option prevent this? Thank you.


----------



## kevinlg

Anyone have any shots they've taken to show off the 5040/6040? 

I know pictures don't mean a thing but they're still great to see!


----------



## ac388

gnolivos said:


> I found upper and lower black body casing for the 5040 for $150 shipped. Will give it a go!


Wonder if it will void the warranty ? Since there should be some part that are screw-on to the casing.


----------



## c.kingsley

Mine showed up today. Cathedral mount is still en route so I couldn't mount it. I set it up on a temporary shelf and lit up the wall (no screen yet either). This thing looks incredible. I took some phone pics but they don't do it any justice. FYI, there is no noise that I could discern with eshift on.


----------



## Colin Goddard

mase1981 said:


> Thanks for confirming man  I got 6 of them from my 3010, glad I dont need to re buy





leo9000 said:


> I received my order of the Samsung SSG-5100GB 3D Active Glasses yesterday and they paired fine with the 5040. They are very light-weight,comfortable, and inexpensive.


I am so glad to see both your post!..I have Epson and Samsung glasses, unsure what model number the Samsung's are, but I have 8 pairs that we have used on our Epson 5020....some fit better than others for those who wear glasses plus 3d glasses, but we have had great results with both brands.. In the process of going all black acoustical ceiling drop in tile before my purchase of the 6040, but that's a subject for the diy forum..


----------



## royboy365

kevinlg said:


> Anyone have any shots they've taken to show off the 5040/6040?
> 
> I know pictures don't mean a thing but they're still great to see!


If you will take the time to look through this Owners thread and the other 5040/6040 thread you will find many photos.


----------



## Kelvin1000

kevinlg said:


> Anyone have any shots they've taken to show off the 5040/6040?
> 
> I know pictures don't mean a thing but they're still great to see!


Here are some standard 1080p pics taken during the day with ambient light coming from all over. 
Out of the box Bright Cinema mode without any calibration or adjustments:







Some other pics from YouTube 4K streaming:








Samsung K8500 playing 4K without HDR
Epson 5040 not calibrated
Bright Cinema mode with no adjustments
Living room with some ambient light
Photos taken with an iPhone 6 Plus


























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Waikis

Took these images to compare 1080p (4k enhancement) 4:4:4 vs native 4k 4:2:0 with Forza Horizon 3:

4k native:
https://abload.de/img/20161001_173531uqkde.jpg

1080p enhanced
https://abload.de/img/20161001_17363662jmv.jpg

Images too big, so I'm just gonna link it. These were taken about 1m away from the screen.


----------



## mcallister

Waikis said:


> Took these images to compare 1080p (4k enhancement) 4:4:4 vs native 4k 4:2:0 with Forza Horizon 3:
> 
> https://abload.de/img/20161001_173531uqkde.jpg
> https://abload.de/img/20161001_17363662jmv.jpg
> 
> Images too big, so I'm just gonna link it. These were taken about 1m away from the screen.


The top link is the 1080p with 4K Enhancement?


----------



## Waikis

mcallister said:


> The top link is the 1080p with 4K Enhancement?


top is native


----------



## bontrager

flyinmunky99 said:


> My throw Lens to screen is 12.5 feet and I have a 120" screen 1.1 gain. Will this unit be bright enough for 3D? This will be my 1st 3D projector so hoping first impression will be good.
> 
> I could consider dropping down to 110" if it would make a decent difference in terms of brightness/contrast for 3D/ 2D etc...but if not much difference I wont bother.


Yes, it's bright enough for 3d. However I'm watching on a 92" screen . At 120" your picture will be somewhat less bright.

Please note, while wearing your 3d glasses you can go to the menu and select how much light you would like to let in to your 3d glasses. Low, medium, or high. Each position that you select will have an effect on ghosting. Low being the least ghosting.

Right now, I am using the low setting and the picture has excellent brightness and contrast.

If ghosting doesn't bother you than consider the higher 2 settings ( it bothers me)

I would consider going to 110"

Good luck

Good luck


----------



## bontrager

HDR, am I getting it?

watched my first HDR dvd last night (Pan). I immediately got a message that your TV is not 4k ready "so your picture will be the best the TV can deliver" or something like that. I select OK and watched the dvd. Picture looked very good. I am using my Xbox one S for the source.

Based on the above content how do I know that I am getting the HDR feature that the disc can provide??

Also prior to watching the DVD, I loaded project cars to see if the One S would upscale the picture and to me , yes it does!!!

No lag but I was just watching the rolling demo, fabulous.

Thank you, could this be love?


----------



## evoZip

Ashma said:


> Where can one find more information about this feature? I want to be able to watch movies like the TDK an Interstellar on my 2.35:1 screen but hear that when the image shifts to the IMAX the picture will overflow above and below. Does the blanking option prevent this? Thank you.


I 2nd the request for more clarity on this subject, please!


----------



## bontrager

Kelvin1000 said:


> Here are some standard 1080p pics taken during the day with ambient light coming from all over.
> ]
> 
> Samsung K8500 playing 4K without HDR
> Epson 5040 not calibrated
> Bright Cinema mode with no adjustments
> Living room with some ambient light
> Photos taken with an iPhone 6 Plus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Excellent pictures. Where did you take the picture of the steam engine #2816??? 

Thank you.


----------



## Threefiddie

don't quote a giant wall of pics. takes forever to get through it all. just remove the img links out of the quote.


----------



## leo9000

Josuah said:


> I don't know about the table, but 4K Blu-ray is pretty much 4Kp24 4:2:0 10-bit. And I believe that is what the HDFury Integral was reporting when I was playing a 4K disc.
> 
> 
> 
> The BDP7501 will automatically do the right thing when plugged into HDMI #1 on the 5040UB and playing a 4K Blu-ray disc. You will probably want to manually select HDR Mode 1 but other than that you don't have to do anything special to get it to work.


Thanks for the information. I watched Creed last night and I set the HDR mode to 1. It looked great. I then put in Spectre to see what a regular Blu-ray looked like and it looked horrible, until I realized I had to switch off HDR1 and go back to Auto. Does anyone know if there is a quick way to switch between the Auto and HDR modes without going into the menu? Still getting used to the new projector and remote. Thanks.


----------



## BmanAVS

*Need Help - 4K vs. 1080p vs. HDR*



Kelvin1000 said:


> Here are some standard 1080p pics taken during the day with ambient light coming from all over.
> Out of the box Bright Cinema mode without any calibration or adjustments:
> 
> Samsung K8500 playing 4K without HDR
> Epson 5040 not calibrated
> Bright Cinema mode with no adjustments
> Living room with some ambient light
> Photos taken with an iPhone 6 Plus
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How are any of you getting 4K playback with either the the X Box 1S or the Samsung UBD-K8500? I wish I would have read this thread prior to purchase! Whenever I play an Ultra HD BD disc it switches to 1080P vs. 2160. When I stop playing either source, both on Xbox 1s and Samsung, it goes back to 2160. I have tried bypassing my Denon AVR x4200W and going straight to the projector, as well as through it. I use the projector's info for the current resolution to display output setting. I'm new at this stuff, and not sure if what I should expect it to report as a display. Both will "Play" the Ultra HD but as far as resolution goes they are reporting the same output with UHD Disc as a standard bluray. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Stunning images even in 1080p but its showing 1080p BT.0709 HDR2 or somethign like that. Not sure how to recognize I am getting HDR at the right resolution. Again....obviously I need help...been reading forum for about a week trying to understand and find my answer on my own. 

Thanks!


----------



## kevinlg

royboy365 said:


> If you will take the time to look through this Owners thread and the other 5040/6040 thread you will find many photos.



I have taken the time, I didn't say I haven't seen any. I asked for more contributions.


----------



## Viche

terminal33 said:


> Yes, I agree. It seems that is where 4K outshines 1080p the most on this projector. With 4K, the backgrounds are more detailed and clear. But the foreground images are very similar since the e-shift seems to do wonders.
> 
> 
> 
> I see, thanks. I have Risen 4K so I'll check that out tonight.


To me it looked that very first image of the Revenant had some camera shake or motion on screen that caused blurring that reduced resolution. The other upscaled 1080p images don't look nearly as blurry. True?


----------



## Mike Garrett

ac388 said:


> Wonder if it will void the warranty ? Since there should be some part that are screw-on to the casing.


I think this will be a daunting task to get everything back together and working perfectly. Also I am pretty sure that it will void your warranty. Imagine telling your car dealer that you took your new car completely apart and now, after putting it back together it has a problem. Do you think your dealer will fix it under warranty?


----------



## hoogs

Waikis said:


> Took these images to compare 1080p (4k enhancement) 4:4:4 vs native 4k 4:2:0 with Forza Horizon 3:
> 
> 4k native:
> https://abload.de/img/20161001_173531uqkde.jpg
> 
> 1080p enhanced
> https://abload.de/img/20161001_17363662jmv.jpg
> 
> Images too big, so I'm just gonna link it. These were taken about 1m away from the screen.


4k text even in 4:2:0 is much clearer, I'm loving this projector for gaming in 4k.


----------



## terminal33

Viche said:


> To me it looked that very first image of the Revnant had some camera shake or motion on screen that caused blurring that reduced resolution. The other upscaled 1080p images don't look nearly as blurry. True?


Hmm, not sure. But it certainly could be the case since I didn't make an effort to pause the scenes at the exact same location. :laugh:


----------



## dvdwilly3

Viche said:


> To me it looked that very first image of the Revnant had some camera shake or motion on screen that caused blurring that reduced resolution. The other upscaled 1080p images don't look nearly as blurry. True?


Everyone needs to be careful when they are trying to compare screen shots...

I have found that even on the same time mark, say 6 minutes, 13 seconds, that there are several frames within that time mark. And, they may very different...that is, some will be knife-edge clear and others will be blurry.

In particular, if you are trying to compare images between different projectors, if you are not careful, what you think you see will not be what you get...

Make sure that you are on the exact same frame if you really want a valid comparison.


----------



## Viche

Waikis said:


> Took these images to compare 1080p (4k enhancement) 4:4:4 vs native 4k 4:2:0 with Forza Horizon 3:
> 
> 4k native:
> https://abload.de/img/20161001_173531uqkde.jpg
> 
> 1080p enhanced
> https://abload.de/img/20161001_17363662jmv.jpg
> 
> Images too big, so I'm just gonna link it. These were taken about 1m away from the screen.


4K is obviously much more detailed. Is this taken from a PC? IF so, which video card?


----------



## terminal33

leo9000 said:


> Thanks for the information. I watched Creed last night and I set the HDR mode to 1. It looked great. I then put in Spectre to see what a regular Blu-ray looked like and it looked horrible, until I realized I had to switch off HDR1 and go back to Auto. Does anyone know if there is a quick way to switch between the Auto and HDR modes without going into the menu? Still getting used to the new projector and remote. Thanks.


I don't know of any quick way, but I know you can program that sequence if you have a Logitech Harmony remote. I've programmed a few commands already since Epson doesn't provide quicker ways. I wish the Auto feature would know to switch HDR off when watching 1080p discs.


----------



## mase1981

terminal33 said:


> I don't know of any quick way, but I know you can program that sequence if you have a Logitech Harmony remote. I've programmed a few commands already since Epson doesn't provide quicker ways. I wish the Auto feature would know to switch HDR off when watching 1080p discs.


Can you please share your sequence? i have the same setup as yours  since 6040UB is not yet in Logi DB i would love and appreciate if you share please


----------



## terminal33

mase1981 said:


> Can you please share your sequence? i have the same setup as yours  since 6040UB is not yet in Logi DB i would love and appreciate if you share please


I haven't set up the sequence for the HDR settings. I set up a sequence to see the projector Info and one more (but I can't remember right now.) Basically all you do is tell the Logitech which buttons and arrows to push and in what order. It can be time consuming but at least you only set it up one time.


----------



## mase1981

terminal33 said:


> I haven't set up the sequence for the HDR settings. I set up a sequence to see the projector Info and one more (but I can't remember right now.) Basically all you do is tell the Logitech which buttons and arrows to push and in what order. It can be time consuming but at least you only set it up one time.


Which model did u enter for Logi to recognize this projector? since 5040 and 6050 not yet in Logi DB


----------



## terminal33

mase1981 said:


> Which model did u enter for Logi to recognize this projector? since 5040 and 6050 not yet in Logi DB


I entered the 5040. It should be in their database.


----------



## mase1981

terminal33 said:


> I entered the 5040. It should be in their database.


lol. ur right..
i checked a few days ago . neither 5040 or 6040 were there . going to add 5040 since buttons should be identical  thank you.


----------



## BmanAVS

Update on below after I did some more testing. 

1. Ultra HD BD disc (Deadpool) in Samsung K8500 is extremely dark when playing but shows the following:
1920x1080
24Hz
Color Depth 10 bit 4:4:4 - Could get this to 12 bit if I chose samsung Deep color but still horribly dark image
BT.709 HDR2

2. When I stop the playback and go to main menu (Samsung menu):
Resolution: 3840x2160
Refresh: 60Hz
Color Depth 8 bit 4:2:0
Color Format BT.709 SDR

3. When I put the Regular BluRay (Deadpool) in I get the same as above #2 , really good looking image.

4. When I put the UHD BD (Deadpool) in the XB1S I get the following:
1920x1080 24Hz 8bit 

Frustrating. Finally found the HDR modes thanks to continued reading and playing. Again, any ideas why just the UHD playback fails over to HD while other content including Youtube from the Samsung plays in 4k 4.2.0?




BmanAVS said:


> How are any of you getting 4K playback with either the the X Box 1S or the Samsung UBD-K8500? I wish I would have read this thread prior to purchase! Whenever I play an Ultra HD BD disc it switches to 1080P vs. 2160. When I stop playing either source, both on Xbox 1s and Samsung, it goes back to 2160. I have tried bypassing my Denon AVR x4200W and going straight to the projector, as well as through it. I use the projector's info for the current resolution to display output setting. I'm new at this stuff, and not sure if what I should expect it to report as a display. Both will "Play" the Ultra HD but as far as resolution goes they are reporting the same output with UHD Disc as a standard bluray.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. Stunning images even in 1080p but its showing 1080p BT.0709 HDR2 or somethign like that. Not sure how to recognize I am getting HDR at the right resolution. Again....obviously I need help...been reading forum for about a week trying to understand and find my answer on my own.
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## Waikis

Viche said:


> 4K is obviously much more detailed. Is this taken from a PC? IF so, which video card?



yep from pc. I'm using gtx 1080.


----------



## Viche

BmanAVS said:


> Update on below after I did some more testing.
> 
> 1. Ultra HD BD disc (Deadpool) in Samsung K8500 is extremely dark when playing but shows the following:
> 1920x1080
> 24Hz
> Color Depth 10 bit 4:4:4 - Could get this to 12 bit if I chose samsung Deep color but still horribly dark image
> BT.709 HDR2
> 
> 2. When I stop the playback and go to main menu (Samsung menu):
> Resolution: 3840x2160
> Refresh: 60Hz
> Color Depth 8 bit 4:2:0
> Color Format BT.709 SDR
> 
> 3. When I put the Regular BluRay (Deadpool) in I get the same as above #2 , really good looking image.
> 
> 4. When I put the UHD BD (Deadpool) in the XB1S I get the following:
> 1920x1080 24Hz 8bit
> 
> Frustrating. Finally found the HDR modes thanks to continued reading and playing. Again, any ideas why just the UHD playback fails over to HD while other content including Youtube from the Samsung plays in 4k 4.2.0?


Here's my take:
...

The HDMI chipset in the Epson can only handle 10 GBPS (fact)
Per the chart below, 4k24 10 bit 4:4:4 is beyond its capability (fact)
The Samsung is sending a signal that the Epson can't handle, so it is being converted/remapped to 4k24 8 bit 4:2:0. This leads to the image looking darker (theory)
The regular Blu-Ray is 1080p and therefore much lower bandwidth, so the Epson is able to display the native signal correctly (theory)
Xbox One S also sends 4k HDR bluRay signal in too high of a bandwidth for the Epson HDMI chipset to handle (theory)
Youtube 4k videos are natively 8-bit 4:2:0, so they display properly (theory)
Other Players such as the Panasonic, Phillips, and hopefully Oppo have the ability to correctly export or convert higher bandwidth HDR 4K signals to a signal that the Epson can handle, so the image looks good (theory)
In doing so, these players are throwing away Rec 2020 color (theory)
Before certain people jump on my back...I'm trying to gain an understanding of these things myself, so as I note, some of this is just theory on my part. I know that others on here know more than I do, so I'm open to corrections, but not to thick-headed insults or suggestions that I am wasting my time. 

I'm legitimately curious as to how this all works. I'm also curious to know if we are losing anything with the signal that Panasonic and Phillips deliver, and if the Fury and Oppo will deliver a better picture by stripping HDR while maintaining Rec 2020 color.


----------



## Viche

FYI: 

Evan at Projector Central just posted:

"As you know the initial write up on the *Epson ProCinema 6040* was based on a pre-production sample. I've been waiting for a final production unit before completing the review. Good news, the 6040 production unit just arrived yesterday. I am expecting to go through it and finish the review by the end of next week."


----------



## BmanAVS

Viche said:


> Here's my take:
> ...
> 
> 
> The HDMI chipset in the Epson can only handle 10 GBPS (fact).
> Agreed!
> Per the chart below, 4k24 10 bit 4:4:4 is beyond its capability (fact)
> Agreed!
> The Samsung is sending a signal that the Epson can't handle, so it is being converted/remapped to 4k24 8 bit 4:2:0. This leads to the image looking darker (theory)
> This is not the case. Indeed sending a signal it can't reproduce but it's switching to 1080p 24 10bit HDR 4:4:4.
> The regular Blu-Ray is 1080p and therefore much lower bandwidth, so the Epson is able to display the native signal correctly (theory)
> The regular Bluray is being upscaled to 4k but 3840x2160 8 bit 4:2:0 SDR.
> Xbox One S also sends 4k HDR bluRay signal in too high of a bandwidth for the Epson HDMI chipset to handle (theory)
> XBOX plays at 1080p but 8 bit sdr vs sammys 10bit hdr. just trying to find out how and why only playback is affected.
> Youtube 4k videos are natively 8-bit 4:2:0, so they display properly (theory)
> Other Players such as the Panasonic, Phillips, and hopefully Oppo have the ability to correctly export or convert higher bandwidth HDR 4K signals to a signal that the Epson can handle, so the image looks good (theory)
> In doing so, these players are throwing away Rec 2020 color (theory)
> Before certain people jump on my back...I'm trying to gain an understanding of these things myself, so as I note, some of this is just theory on my part. I know that others on here know more than I do, so I'm open to corrections, but not to thick-headed insults or suggestions that I am wasting my time.
> 
> I'm legitimately curious as to how this all works. I'm also curious to know if we are losing anything with the signal that Panasonic and Phillips deliver, and if the Fury and Oppo will deliver a better picture by stripping HDR while maintaining Rec 2020 color.


see responses in your quote above. If it was the chipset, i would expect it to never play 3840x2160 vs only switch when doing playback. i am no expert but just seems like it's having issues negotiating the capabilities of the projector for the handshake that's required for playback. again guessing here. lol


----------



## Kelvin1000

BmanAVS said:


> How are any of you getting 4K playback with either the the X Box 1S or the Samsung UBD-K8500? I wish I would have read this thread prior to purchase! Whenever I play an Ultra HD BD disc it switches to 1080P vs. 2160. When I stop playing either source, both on Xbox 1s and Samsung, it goes back to 2160. I have tried bypassing my Denon AVR x4200W and going straight to the projector, as well as through it. I use the projector's info for the current resolution to display output setting. I'm new at this stuff, and not sure if what I should expect it to report as a display. Both will "Play" the Ultra HD but as far as resolution goes they are reporting the same output with UHD Disc as a standard bluray.
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. Stunning images even in 1080p but its showing 1080p BT.0709 HDR2 or somethign like that. Not sure how to recognize I am getting HDR at the right resolution. Again....obviously I need help...been reading forum for about a week trying to understand and find my answer on my own.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!



Run through the initial video setup and make sure your HDMI cable supports the latest standard.

There is no special procedure to get 4K. It's HDR that can be tricky.


----------



## c.kingsley

BmanAVS said:


> see responses in your quote above. If it was the chipset, i would expect it to never play 3840x2160 vs only switch when doing playback. i am no expert but just seems like it's having issues negotiating the capabilities of the projector for the handshake that's required for playback. again guessing here. lol


You might want to color your inline responses as it is very difficult to differentiate between your comments and Viche.


----------



## c.kingsley

Viche said:


> I'm legitimately curious as to how this all works. I'm also curious to know if we are losing anything with the signal that Panasonic and Phillips deliver, and if the Fury and Oppo will deliver a better picture by stripping HDR while maintaining Rec 2020 color.


Maybe I can shut this down once and for all. I recommend reading the entire link for a fantastic explanation of everything.

Source: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/

Here are the highlights:
*



Blu-ray and UHD Blu-ray both store the video signal in the 4:2:0 format

Click to expand...

*So, at this time, there is no need for anything higher than that for blu ray or UHD. 10.2Gbps is perfectly acceptable.

Emphasis mine:
*



This is important information, as we are seeing some sources such as the Samsung UHD Blu-Ray player that only support 4:4:4 or RGB at 10 bit, both of which require the whole video chain to be 18Gbps capable. They could easily have used 12 bit at 4:2:2:, which would have enabled compatibility with 10.2Gbps chipsets.

Click to expand...





As you can see it is possible that a 10.2Gbps chipset and cable infrastructure can support UHD Blu Ray, assuming the transfer medium is 4:2:2 at 12 bit.

Click to expand...

*Note, this is what we see as the output from the Phillips player.
*



Note that there appears to be some confusion about exactly what is supported in the HDMI specification, even among manufacturers and industry participants.

Click to expand...

*This is essentially an output problem. The projector supports display of the content as it is stored on the disk. Samsung has chosen to use an output that requires 18Gbps. Whether that can be corrected via firmware or not is unknown. The sad thing here is that these conversions are required at all. I would prefer that the output device send the content to the projector without any chroma conversion. This makes all of the current players on the market less than ideal because the best place for this conversion to occur is once, on the display itself. All of these arguments are focused on the wrong subject. Call these manufacturers and complain that they don't output the disc's native format! Everyone call Congress!


----------



## nologic2001

Viche said:


> Here's my take:
> ...
> 
> The HDMI chipset in the Epson can only handle 10 GBPS (fact)
> Per the chart below, 4k24 10 bit 4:4:4 is beyond its capability (fact)
> The Samsung is sending a signal that the Epson can't handle, so it is being converted/remapped to 4k24 8 bit 4:2:0. This leads to the image looking darker (theory)






Are you sure those devices are outputting [email protected] 8 bit 4:2:0? That bit depth and chroma combination aren't supported by the HDMI 2.0 standard.


----------



## Viche

c.kingsley said:


> Maybe I can shut this down once and for all. I recommend reading the entire link for a fantastic explanation of everything.
> 
> Source: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/
> 
> Here are the highlights:
> So, at this time, there is no need for anything higher than that for blu ray or UHD. 10.2Gbps is perfectly acceptable.
> 
> Emphasis mine:
> Note, this is what we see as the output from the Phillips player.
> 
> This is essentially an output problem. The projector supports display of the content as it is stored on the disk. Samsung has chosen to use an output that requires 18Gbps. Whether that can be corrected via firmware or not is unknown. The sad thing here is that these conversions are required at all. I would prefer that the output device send the content to the projector without any chroma conversion. This makes all of the current players on the market less than ideal because the best place for this conversion to occur is once, on the display itself. All of these arguments are focused on the wrong subject. Call these manufacturers and complain that they don't output the disc's native format! Everyone call Congress!


Thanks, I'll read the article and amend my list. I remember now that current 4k blu-rays are all encoded ar 4:2:0. Do you have any idea if that's 8, 10, or 12 bit color? Also does the expanded Rec 2020 color range on HDR disks mean a higher color bit rating?

The thing that confuses me is the fact that that chart shows that no 4k24 4:2:0 is supported by the HDMI spec. Doesn't that mean that any player has to do some alteration to the signal?


----------



## BmanAVS

So just for trial I went and bought the philips uhd player. Same result with thier included cable, projector info reports 1080p 24hz. Message pops up stating connect to source that can play 4k. i was thinking of resetting the projector entirely. image is great at 1080p but just want to see what im supposed to through this thing...lol


----------



## c.kingsley

BmanAVS said:


> So just for trial I went and bought the philips uhd player. Same result with thier included cable, projector info reports 1080p 24hz. Message pops up stating connect to source that can play 4k. i was thinking of resetting the projector entirely. image is great at 1080p but just want to see what im supposed to through this thing...lol


Not sure what is going on for you. I just took these, playing the Oblivion UHD on the Philips. My firmware is 105/103. These are taken with a camera phone and I still do not have a screen, this is shooting straight on a gray wall.

For those on the sidelines, don't listen to any of the detractors, naysayers or handwringers. This projector is outstanding.


----------



## BmanAVS

i just figured it out. Pure stupidity. Hdmi cable plugged into hdmi 2 vs hdmi 1. Sorry guys! crazy though i still got a message saying projector doesnt support hdr but at least now i am getting 4k 12 bit 4:2:2 out using direct connect with philips. Now to figure what to keep lol.


----------



## k3nnis

How did you get 4K 12bit 4:2:2 with the Epson? I thought the Epson can't go that high in bandwidth with the HDMI or am I mistaken?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## c.kingsley

Viche said:


> Thanks, I'll read the article and amend my list. I remember now that current 4k blu-rays are all encoded ar 4:2:0. Do you have any idea if that's 8, 10, or 12 bit color? Also does the expanded Rec 2020 color range on HDR disks mean a higher color bit rating?
> 
> The thing that confuses me is the fact that that chart shows that no 4k24 4:2:0 is supported by the HDMI spec. Doesn't that mean that any player has to do some alteration to the signal?


Blu rays and UHD are all chroma 4:2:0. Blu rays are all 8 bit color. UHD is all 10bit currently though the spec potentially supports 12 bit AFAIK. The point is that 10.2Gbps is more than enough for 4k24p 4:2:2 at 12bit color. The current Phillips player outputs this signal. As with any new technology there are some incompatibilities which is to be expected. I imagine much of this will be resolved in time. However, we know that the Phillips works. We can almost guarantee that the Oppo will also work. It all looks great from my seat and, like many others who have previously posted, I'm about to go enjoy this fantastic machine instead of posting here.


----------



## c.kingsley

k3nnis said:


> How did you get 4K 12bit 4:2:2 with the Epson? I thought the Epson can't go that high in bandwidth with the HDMI or am I mistaken?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You are mistaken. I didn't do anything, I plugged it in and turned it on. 

I take it back, there was a setting on the Phillips for 4:4:4 at 60Hz or 4:2:0. I set it to 4:4:4 though that should have no effect on 24Hz playback mode.


----------



## k3nnis

c.kingsley said:


> You are mistaken. I didn't do anything, I plugged it in and turned it on.
> 
> I take it back, there was a setting on the Phillips for 4:4:4 at 60Hz or 4:2:0. I set it to 4:4:4 though that should have no effect on 24Hz playback mode.




Ok thanks. Hope the oppo will be compatible 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## McBadden

gnolivos said:


> I found upper and lower black body casing for the 5040 for $150 shipped. Will give it a go!


I might be interested in such a casing since my ceiling is black. Would you mind sharing your source? 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

McBadden said:


> I might be interested in such a casing since my ceiling is black. Would you mind sharing your source?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


Read the rest of the thread


----------



## Rimo

Waikis said:


> Took these images to compare 1080p (4k enhancement) 4:4:4 vs native 4k 4:2:0 with Forza Horizon 3:
> 
> 4k native:
> https://abload.de/img/20161001_173531uqkde.jpg
> 
> 1080p enhanced
> https://abload.de/img/20161001_17363662jmv.jpg
> 
> Images too big, so I'm just gonna link it. These were taken about 1m away from the screen.


Nice, the 4K really helps tighten up the IQ gets rid of jaggies.


----------



## aaranddeeman

McBadden said:


> I might be interested in such a casing since my ceiling is black. Would you mind sharing your source?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk





ndabunka said:


> Read the rest of the thread


Unless I missed it, I don't recall the source being mentioned anywhere.


----------



## Ronman79

aaranddeeman said:


> Unless I missed it, I don't recall the source being mentioned anywhere.


It turned out it was for the 5030


----------



## ndabunka

aaranddeeman said:


> Unless I missed it, I don't recall the source being mentioned anywhere.


When he first posted it I had messaged him privately to alert him that I thought the pricing might have been for the older unit which is also a smaller size as I had found it doubtful that it was for the newer model. Shortly thereafter he posted a message in this thread stating that the components and prices were for the older 5030 unit. He also posted previously after he had gotten the pricing for the first two panels that he would need pricing for two other panels as well before he realied it was all for the older model. So, while those of us with white might like black it will likely be a while before Epson even offers the FOUR case components we would need and even then we would likely be forfeiting our warranties should we attempt it. For me, the warranty replacement is CRITICAL so I would not do this change if that is the case anyway.

Cross-posted with ^ as I started my original message and then got pulled away before coming back and typing my final details and then hitting SEND 

PS - He did send me the source in that reply PM but since it is for old components, no point in relaying.


----------



## Viche

I'm working on a summary of how each player plays with the Epson. I'll post shortly for all of you to review. In the meantime...some comments re: below...



c.kingsley said:


> This is essentially an output problem. The projector supports display of the content as it is stored on the disk. Samsung has chosen to use an output that requires 18Gbps. Whether that can be corrected via firmware or not is unknown. The sad thing here is that these conversions are required at all. I would prefer that the output device send the content to the projector without any chroma conversion. This makes all of the current players on the market less than ideal because the best place for this conversion to occur is once, on the display itself. All of these arguments are focused on the wrong subject. Call these manufacturers and complain that they don't output the disc's native format! Everyone call Congress!



From what I understand (see attached graphic) HDMI 2.0 does not support the native UHD Bluray spec of 4k24 / 4:2:0 / 8 or 10-bit color, so some sort of conversion must happen on the player. Just saying, we don't literally want the native format sent.



BmanAVS said:


> i just figured it out. Pure stupidity. Hdmi cable plugged into hdmi 2 vs hdmi 1. Sorry guys! crazy though i still got a message saying projector doesnt support hdr but at least now i am getting 4k 12 bit 4:2:2 out using direct connect with philips. Now to figure what to keep lol.



ahhhh....so can you tell me what the Samsung and Xbox One are sending now? Before I believe you had said that both were sending 1080p / 4:4:4 / 8 or 10-bit / Rec 709



k3nnis said:


> How did you get 4K 12bit 4:2:2 with the Epson? I thought the Epson can't go that high in bandwidth with the HDMI or am I mistaken?


see attached graphic


----------



## SolRebel

evoZip said:


> I 2nd the request for more clarity on this subject, please!


ME TOO!! I currently use a Lumagen to jump to 2:35.1 from 16:9 and also to crop the top and bottom 12.5% of the screen. This is the fix I found for those movies that switch aspect ratios. It works awesome, but my Lumagen doesn't support 4k so if I move from my current 5030 to a 5040, it would be super nice if the projector did the cropping natively. 

Anyone know? Thanks


----------



## ndabunka

SolRebel said:


> ME TOO!! I currently use a Lumagen to jump to 2:35.1 from 16:9 and also to crop the top and bottom 12.5% of the screen. This is the fix I found for those movies that switch aspect ratios. It works awesome, but my Lumagen doesn't support 4k so if I move from my current 5030 to a 5040, it would be super nice if the projector did the cropping natively.
> 
> Anyone know? Thanks


The 5040 does have LENS MEMORY and even has 2 separate hard buttons on the remote to make it easier to go from 16:9 to the 2:35.1 format. Not only that but it can also shift the image up or down or down on the screen as well so that you can retain either the top or bottom boarder. Of couse the opposite border would also then need to be adjusted using some method other than what is available through the projector itself (perhaps a top or bottom masking system)


----------



## Ashma

*Blanking Function*



ndabunka said:


> The 5040 does have LENS MEMORY and even has 2 separate hard buttons on the remote to make it easier to go from 16:9 to the 2:35.1 format. Not only that but it can also shift the image up or down or down on the screen as well so that you can retain either the top or bottom boarder. Of couse the opposite border would also then need to be adjusted using some method other than what is available through the projector itself (perhaps a top or bottom masking system)


I found this from a sister forum about the blanking feature to mask the screen between aspect ratios:

Darn I need to submit 5 posts before I can provide the link. Its on AVForum from December 2015

Anyone try this out on TDK or Interstellar on the Epson 5040 yet?

Thanks


----------



## Ashma

Ashma said:


> I found this from a sister forum about the blanking feature to mask the screen between aspect ratios:
> 
> Darn I need to submit 5 posts before I can provide the link. Its on AVForum from December 2015
> 
> Anyone try this out on TDK or Interstellar on the Epson 5040 yet?
> 
> Thanks


Here is the link sort of: avforums.com/threads/why-doesnt-1-85-crop-exist-on-projector-settings-or-does-it.2001394/


----------



## c.kingsley

Ashma said:


> I found this from a sister forum about the blanking feature to mask the screen between aspect ratios:
> 
> Darn I need to submit 5 posts before I can provide the link. Its on AVForum from December 2015
> 
> Anyone try this out on TDK or Interstellar on the Epson 5040 yet?
> 
> Thanks


The function works exactly like you would expect, preserving a chosen aspect ratio during movies where shifting occurs. It is software based. Explanations of how this works and the outcome are well described elsewhere on the Internet. It is a nice feature if you use a fixed CIH setup.


----------



## bontrager

Spoke to a Epson tech yesterday and no way can the 5040 do HDR with the Xbox One S without some sort of firmware update to either the 5040 or the S. He has no idea if or when this may happen ( disappointing).

So don't look to be able to play Gears of War 4 next week with HDR; sure it will still look pretty good as Project Cars has w/o HDR

He said that the Panasonic new 4k player will work because of its rendering options for lack of the proper term that has been mentioned in other posts.

$700.00 for the player


----------



## bontrager

sunnyvali said:


> I have the Phillips routed through my Pioneer SC-95 receiver. No issues at all. I do remember that I have turned off 4K upscaling on the receiver. Just wanted the native video signal to pass-thru.


The Phillips doesn't play dvd's correct; it's just a 4k streaming player?????

Looks that way to me


----------



## Kelvin1000

It does play 4K UHD Blu-rays.


----------



## c.kingsley

Kelvin1000 said:


> It does play 4K UHD Blu-rays.


To add to that, it is a very compact player, just barely larger than the disc tray.


----------



## Don Giberson

Here are some of my experiences with the 5040 coupled with a Philips UHD player after 100 hours. 

No Netflix 4K or HDR
HDR shows no improvement, in fact quite the opposite
Fan now stuck on high
Iris failed
Edge ringing
Could not get FI working

Quite disappointing. This is my first auto iris projector. It never really worked well as brightness would vary on same scene. The servo motor controlling the iris sounded like an old SCSI HDD reindexing. So loud you could easily hear it across the room. 

If my unit is an isolated case, I will consider having it replaced. If others have similar issues, I will try to get a refund or sell it. 

Are auto irises fundamentally unreliable over time?


----------



## gnolivos

Don Giberson said:


> Here are some of my experiences with the 5040 coupled with a Philips UHD player after 100 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> No Netflix 4K or HDR
> 
> HDR shows no improvement, in fact quite the opposite
> 
> Fan now stuck on high
> 
> Iris failed
> 
> Edge ringing
> 
> Could not get FI working
> 
> 
> 
> Quite disappointing. This is my first auto iris projector. It never really worked well as brightness would vary on same scene. The servo motor controlling the iris sounded like an old SCSI HDD reindexing. So loud you could easily hear it across the room.
> 
> 
> 
> If my unit is an isolated case, I will consider having it replaced. If others have similar issues, I will try to get a refund or sell it.
> 
> 
> 
> Are auto irises fundamentally unreliable over time?




Strange. I manage 4K on the same player with Netflix.


----------



## Rimo

Don Giberson said:


> No Netflix 4K or HDR
> HDR shows no improvement, in fact quite the opposite


Are you aware that Netflix now charges a premium to access the 4K and HDR content? It is no longer packaged with the standard subscription. 

Additionally your internet connection must meet the bandwidth requirements.


----------



## royboy365

Don Giberson said:


> Here are some of my experiences with the 5040 coupled with a Philips UHD player after 100 hours.
> 
> No Netflix 4K or HDR
> HDR shows no improvement, in fact quite the opposite
> Fan now stuck on high
> Iris failed
> Edge ringing
> Could not get FI working
> 
> Quite disappointing. This is my first auto iris projector. It never really worked well as brightness would vary on same scene. The servo motor controlling the iris sounded like an old SCSI HDD reindexing. So loud you could easily hear it across the room.
> 
> If my unit is an isolated case, I will consider having it replaced. If others have similar issues, I will try to get a refund or sell it.
> 
> Are auto irises fundamentally unreliable over time?


FWIW I get 4k on Netflix through the Phillips player app. I would suggest you check your settings and cable. 

Looking forward to trying out the new Roku Ultra to see what happens with it, they shipped it to me yesterday.


----------



## royboy365

Don Giberson said:


> Here are some of my experiences with the 5040 coupled with a Philips UHD player after 100 hours.
> 
> No Netflix 4K or HDR
> HDR shows no improvement, in fact quite the opposite
> Fan now stuck on high
> Iris failed
> Edge ringing
> Could not get FI working
> 
> Quite disappointing. This is my first auto iris projector. It never really worked well as brightness would vary on same scene. The servo motor controlling the iris sounded like an old SCSI HDD reindexing. So loud you could easily hear it across the room.
> 
> If my unit is an isolated case, I will consider having it replaced. If others have similar issues, I will try to get a refund or sell it.
> 
> Are auto irises fundamentally unreliable over time?


I've heard some others talk about the auto iris sounding like an old HDD but when I listened to both my old unit and the new one I didn't hear anything like that even in the middle of the night when all is dead quiet with ECO fan and the movie volume muted.

The old unit only made a distracting annoying sound when 4k Enhancement was engaged. I wonder if the Auto Iris sound is also an issue on only some units or all of them.

Perhaps other owners could chime in with their experience if they hear what you are describing or not.

Perhaps you can tell us a particular movie scene(s) that you hear it on?


----------



## Don Giberson

Rimo said:


> Are you aware that Netflix now charges a premium to access the 4K and HDR content? It is no longer packaged with the standard subscription.
> 
> Additionally your internet connection must meet the bandwidth requirements.


I am able to watch Netflix 4K on a direct view set in the house. I pull over 100 Mbs downstream. When I select 4K content on Netflix it plays. When I look at projector info on the projector, it is outputting 1080P not 4K. 4K blurays play fine from the Philips and projector info indicates 4K. Not sure what is wrong. Epson asked that I insure 24P is selected on the philips when playing 4K which it is.


----------



## rjguk

royboy365 said:


> I've heard some others talk about the auto iris sounding like an old HDD but when I listened to both my old unit and the new one I didn't hear anything like that even in the middle of the night when all is dead quiet with ECO fan and the movie volume muted.
> 
> The old unit only made a distracting annoying sound when 4k Enhancement was engaged. I wonder if the Auto Iris sound is also an issue on only some units or all of them.
> 
> Perhaps other owners could chime in with their experience if they hear what you are describing or not.
> 
> Perhaps you can tell us a particular movie scene(s) that you hear it on?


Set the iris to 'fast' and then fast-forward through something. Especially noticeable on recorded material with ads. On mine it makes a lot of disk-drive-type noise, and then spends a few seconds zeroing-in on the setting it wants. I've also been using the slower mode, but it is still very evident when operating. The projector is ceiling-mounted not far above my head though.


----------



## Don Giberson

royboy365 said:


> I've heard some others talk about the auto iris sounding like an old HDD but when I listened to both my old unit and the new one I didn't hear anything like that even in the middle of the night when all is dead quiet with ECO fan and the movie volume muted.
> 
> The old unit only made a distracting annoying sound when 4k Enhancement was engaged. I wonder if the Auto Iris sound is also an issue on only some units or all of them.
> 
> Perhaps other owners could chime in with their experience if they hear what you are describing or not.
> 
> Perhaps you can tell us a particular movie scene(s) that you hear it on?


Well, it failed so there is no sound coming from the iris at all now. I could pause any movie and the iris would continue to adjust. No doubt it had some issues from the start.


----------



## Don Giberson

rjguk said:


> Set the iris to 'fast' and then fast-forward through something. Especially noticeable on recorded material with ads. On mine it makes a lot of disk-drive-type noise, and then spends a few seconds zeroing-in on the setting it wants. I've also been using the slower mode, but it is still very evident when operating. The projector is ceiling-mounted not far above my head though.


Your explanation precisely defines how my unit operated before failing. Hope yours doesn't fail too.


----------



## rjguk

Don Giberson said:


> Your explanation precisely defines how my unit operated before failing. Hope yours doesn't fail too.


Well, with the iris noise and the whine with 4K enhancement of 60Hz material I'm kind of half-hoping that mine fails too, since then I wouldn't have the hassle of explaining why I wasn't happy with the various noises. I know that in the US Epson have an excellent reputation for sorting things out, but I don't know whether the same applies in the UK. I'm planning to talk to them on Monday.

I did some more analysis of the whine today. There are very small elements of it measurable on 24Hz BD material with 4Ke on, and likewise I can see a slight difference in the spectrogram of 50Hz material. However, the annoying noise is only really present on 60Hz material, where the actual big peak is 419.6Hz (7x the input).


----------



## gnolivos

People complaining about the whine noise... do you really hear this with your movie audio playing? I have my audio so loud generally that I wouldn't be able to hear a hair dryer!


----------



## bontrager

Threefiddie said:


> don't quote a giant wall of pics. takes forever to get through it all. just remove the img links out of the quote.


Thank you, will do in the future


----------



## bontrager

josuah said:


> i don't know about the table, but 4k blu-ray is pretty much 4kp24 4:2:0 10-bit. And i believe that is what the hdfury integral was reporting when i was playing a 4k disc.
> 
> 
> 
> The bdp7501 will automatically do the right thing when plugged into hdmi #1 on the 5040ub and playing a 4k blu-ray disc. You will probably want to manually select hdr mode 1 but other than that you don't have to do anything special to get it to work.




thank you!!!!!!!!!


----------



## rjguk

gnolivos said:


> People complaining about the whine noise... do you really hear this with your movie audio playing? I have my audio sonorous generally that I wouldn't be able to hear a hair dryer!


It only happens in a quiet moment, but then the background whine will intrude. It takes you out of the movie. It must be said that it is normally lost in the audio presentation, but using a PJ is an immersive experience such that it jars if you suddenly lose that. A bit like noticing some stray light across the screen.


----------



## chiltonj

rjguk said:


> It only happens in a quiet moment, but then the background whine will intrude. It takes you out of the movie. It must be said that it is normally lost in the audio presentation, but using a PJ is an immersive experience such that it jars if you suddenly lose that. A bit like noticing some stray light across the screen.


Without getting deep (blacker black) into iris and what its supposed to do, I've never seen a difference with it being on, normal or high speed so I have always just left it off on my 6030 and prior 5010. I wouldn't mind seeing pics proving otherwise but then it might be subjective/perceptive anyway. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

chiltonj said:


> Without getting deep (blacker black) into iris and what its supposed to do, I've never seen a difference with it being on, normal or high speed so I have always just left it off on my 6030 and prior 3010. I wouldn't mind seeing pics proving otherwise but then it might be subjective/perceptive anyway.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk




I hear it working all the time (while on mute) but I agree. I can't noice anything except on black screens. And I wish it would act faster in that situation.


----------



## terminal33

royboy365 said:


> FWIW I get 4k on Netflix through the Phillips player app. I would suggest you check your settings and cable.
> 
> Looking forward to trying out the new Roku Ultra to see what happens with it, they shipped it to me yesterday.


Please let us know how the new Roku is, particularly compared to the Philips and if HDR works.


----------



## Savatage316

Still learning the ins and outs, I for now have an Xbox S as my 4k player, I'll get a standalone soon for actual hdr if they don't patch it in eventually.. But what settings do you guys have for your epson, anything that is a must to be selected for best possibly 4k uhd movie watching?


----------



## ultraflexed

Hate to break it to you guys but the Samsung k-8500 player only outputs 4:4:4 at menu, then the actual movie plays it's 4:2:0 so their shouldn't be problem with the player and projector.


----------



## k3nnis

Can we play the movie without navigating the menu?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## McBadden

ndabunka said:


> When he first posted it I had messaged him privately to alert him that I thought the pricing might have been for the older unit which is also a smaller size as I had found it doubtful that it was for the newer model. Shortly thereafter he posted a message in this thread stating that the components and prices were for the older 5030 unit. He also posted previously after he had gotten the pricing for the first two panels that he would need pricing for two other panels as well before he realied it was all for the older model. So, while those of us with white might like black it will likely be a while before Epson even offers the FOUR case components we would need and even then we would likely be forfeiting our warranties should we attempt it. For me, the warranty replacement is CRITICAL so I would not do this change if that is the case anyway.
> 
> Cross-posted with ^ as I started my original message and then got pulled away before coming back and typing my final details and then hitting SEND
> 
> PS - He did send me the source in that reply PM but since it is for old components, no point in relaying.


I was initially under the impression the casing was some sort of external cladding, not that it would require me to disassemble my baby. So even if they come out with one for the 5040 I will have to pass. Definitely not going to void my warranty for the sake of aesthetics. Besides, the white contrasting against the black accoustic tiles has grown on me. I'm proud of it and kinda like how it stands out.  

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## mase1981

Hey Guys, thought i would give some info to those who are interested  
So, i got my 6040UB 2 days ago... It was extremely hard for me to mount it perfectly the way i wanted in my dedicated theater room but eventually thankfully got it done right  
A few things about the projector: 
1. it is HUGE. 
2. it is NOT as heavy as i thought (23lbs). 
3. it is GORGEOUS.
4. The back cable cover that comes with it sealed the deal on how beautiful it is.
5. The extra mount that came with it was a Chief elite. it only came with a 6" pipe, so had to go to Home Depot and construct a longer pipe for my scenario. After all said it done it came out beautiful. Also had to get a different ceiling bracket to replace the one it came with: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FL1OR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
5.1 The mount is VERY heavy, Sturdy and looks really professional. 
6. A few things that i was VERY surprised to achieve.... 
6.1 I put in a MediaBridge 25" HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031TRZX2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it worked flawlessly with everything (detailed below).
6.2 I route everything through Yamaha 2060BL.
6.3 Xbox One S i get 4K and HDR (thats the surprising part). i think it might be because my yamaha is routing the video. unsure... but i get these in green: 
*. Your TV supports 4K UHD (60Hz)
*. Your TV supports 4K 10-bit at 60Hz
*. Your TV supports HDR video/gaming. 
6.4 I also purchased as dedicated player Philips BDP7501. I get full 4K and HDR. 
7. The lens positioning on the projector is a life saver for my use case lol. 
8. The picture is stunning, and thats with zero calibration. However, i do want to get some professionals to ISF calibrate it for me to maximize it. 
9. First movie i saw was x-men apocalypse in 4K HDR Dolby Atmos and i was blown away. 
10. In my use case the projector was SUPER quiet, i could barely hear it. Power consumption is set to "Normal". 
11. I do not know if the 5040 have it, but the 6040 have a lens cover that automatically open and close with the projector power state, i found that feature to be AWESOME. 
12. The backbit remote is cool, have all the buttons you need. But i put it all on a logitech harmony elite which works perfect (settings in myharmoney is Epson Plowerlite 5040UB), still waiting for 6040 to be added to their DB). 
13. Gaming on this projector is a breeze, i have not noticed ANY type of lag. (Games Tested: Skyrim, Lord of the fallen, Tomb Raider 2).
that's it, that is my initial thought. Thank you all for all your valuable information here i have been reading non stop helping make my decision lol. 
I am a happy camper


----------



## gnolivos

It was me who added the 5040 codes to the Harmony database. . You should add the 6040 codes yourself for others to enjoy.


----------



## Threefiddie

mase1981 said:


> Hey Guys, thought i would give some info to those who are interested
> So, i got my 6040UB 2 days ago... It was extremely hard for me to mount it perfectly the way i wanted in my dedicated theater room but eventually thankfully got it done right
> A few things about the projector:
> 
> *6.3 Xbox One S i get 4K and HDR (thats the surprising part). *


i find that hard to believe.


----------



## mase1981

Threefiddie said:


> i find that hard to believe.


Hi, it might be my Yamaha upscaling or similar. but i can tell you when i check the XBOX 4k info page these are green: 
*. Your TV supports 4K UHD (60Hz)
*. Your TV supports 4K 10-bit at 60Hz
*. Your TV supports HDR video/gaming. 

Rather you chose to believe or not, i cant help with that lol .


----------



## mase1981

gnolivos said:


> It was me who added the 5040 codes to the Harmony database. . You should add the 6040 codes yourself for others to enjoy.


where did u go to add the codes to their DB and i will  The minimum i can do after you helped me out to watch my first movie last night easily with my harmony lol


----------



## gnolivos

Well what I did was manually add codes for each button. (Learn codes). The process itself is too complicated for me to remember though! Find 'learn codes' as you add a new device.

If the remotes are identical, then don't bother. Logitech would likely duplicate it or rename the entry to 5040/6040.


----------



## mase1981

gnolivos said:


> Well what I did was manually add codes for each button. (Learn codes). The process itself is too complicated for me to remember though! Find 'learn codes' as you add a new device.
> 
> If the remotes are identical, then don't bother. Logitech would likely duplicate it or rename the entry to 5040/6040.


yeah, i can easily do the "learn code", i did not know that if i do so it automatically add it to Logi DB, cool  
ill google the image of the 5040 remove vs the 6040 remote, they might be identical...


----------



## Threefiddie

mase1981 said:


> Hi, it might be my Yamaha upscaling or similar. but i can tell you when i check the XBOX 4k info page these are green:
> *. Your TV supports 4K UHD (60Hz)
> *. Your TV supports 4K 10-bit at 60Hz
> *. Your TV supports HDR video/gaming.
> 
> Rather you chose to believe or not, i cant help with that lol .


you are the only one ever. unless the 6040 has something different than the 5040 to do it. even epson acknowledged it won't work. interesting. in fact like the only player that will work with hdr is the phillips so far... so... weird.


----------



## mase1981

Threefiddie said:


> you are the only one ever. unless the 6040 has something different than the 5040 to do it. even epson acknowledged it won't work. interesting. in fact like the only player that will work with hdr is the phillips so far... so... weird.


Like i said, it might be my Yamaha. 
i did upgrade the 6040ub firmware to 1.05.
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supAdvice.jsp?type=highlights&noteoid=289381

i have no reason to "lie", from that exact reason that EVERYONE wrote here that it DOES NOT work i went ahead and purchased the Phillips, and i was extremely surprised to see HDR turn green on the xbox... 
Still going to use the phillips as i want dolby atmos etc, but i was surprised to see the HDR on the XBOX. 

If i go by logic, it could very well either be my Yamaha upscaling and enabling the HDR or the 6040 is different...


----------



## gnolivos

Just connect the Xbox directly to the Epson and see what you get.


----------



## mase1981

Threefiddie said:


> i find that hard to believe.





Threefiddie said:


> you are the only one ever. unless the 6040 has something different than the 5040 to do it. even epson acknowledged it won't work. interesting. in fact like the only player that will work with hdr is the phillips so far... so... weird.


i took some pics to show what i get, i tried my best to capture both the screen and the epson model number to show its legit pics lol  
Hope this helps. 
i will try to get the xbox connected directly and report back.


----------



## gnolivos

Not sure those pics prove much. We all know the Epson supports HDR. The Xbox is handshaking via HDMI and the Epson is reporting the supported feature set. That's all good, but the real question is whether the XBOX and the Epson can effectively handle an HDR signal together when playing a UHD disc etc. 

Test this:
Connect the Xbox via HDMI directly to HDMI 1 port on the Epson. Then play HDR content. Then display info on the projector and see what you get.


----------



## Kelvin1000

The Xbox One S had a new update in the last couple of days so maybe they fixed the problem...

I am getting one on Tuesday and will report back as well.


----------



## mase1981

I will do my best to test, but I'll need to take out the Xbox and move it up as the hdmi won't get to it physically.... I'll try.... 

And yes, I had an update on my Xbox last night right before I connected everything together....


----------



## QuantumCosmos

*Nvdia settings*

One of the devices I have connected to my 5040ub is a Windows 10 PC with a Nvidia GTX 1070. The only Nvdia display settings option at 4K when connected to the projector is at 8 bit at YCbCr420 (no RGB, YCbCr444 or 422). Is this what others are getting too? I have the PC connected via hdmi to a pioneer 924VSX receiver with HDMI 2 out connected to projector. I have the HDMI 1 out connected to my Samsung 4K TV and my Nvdia setting detected there for 4k allow me to change to RGB, YCbCr444, 222, 220, and 8,10,12 bit. 
My receiver HDMI settings are at 4:4:4 

What am I doing wrong? Will my current settings hurt my video performance.


----------



## QuantumCosmos

*Samsung 3D glasses do not sync*

Hi I have 2 Samsung 5150gb 3D glasses that's supposed to work with the 5040ub. I tried a couple of 3D movies on my PS4 but can't seems to sync the glasses. I've tried this when the projector detects a 3D source while pressing the power button on the glasses for a long time inches away from the projector, but it just blinks red and does not sync. I tried this with 2 of the same model glasses. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Colin Goddard

mase1981 said:


> Hey Guys, thought i would give some info to those who are interested
> So, i got my 6040UB 2 days ago... It was extremely hard for me to mount it perfectly the way i wanted in my dedicated theater room but eventually thankfully got it done right
> A few things about the projector:
> 1. it is HUGE.
> 2. it is NOT as heavy as i thought (23lbs).
> 3. it is GORGEOUS.
> 4. The back cable cover that comes with it sealed the deal on how beautiful it is.
> 5. The extra mount that came with it was a Chief elite. it only came with a 6" pipe, so had to go to Home Depot and construct a longer pipe for my scenario. After all said it done it came out beautiful. Also had to get a different ceiling bracket to replace the one it came with: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FL1OR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
> 5.1 The mount is VERY heavy, Sturdy and looks really professional.
> 6. A few things that i was VERY surprised to achieve....
> 6.1 I put in a MediaBridge 25" HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031TRZX2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it worked flawlessly with everything (detailed below).
> 
> Thanks for your input on the 6040 and hdmi cables.. I ordered a 6040 from Mike Garrett AV Sales yesterday and it will ship tomorrow, Monday...Anyway, I had some concern about my 4 year old Rocketfish 25ft hdmi cable being able to pass all the new 4k signals, 2.0 ect??..So I decided to just replace it, along with my hdmi cables from my receiver Marantz 7010 and Oppo 93..I thought why not?..I just spent $4k on a projector, why not spend $40 on new hdmi cables.....Just my thoughts


----------



## mase1981

Colin Goddard said:


> mase1981 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Guys, thought i would give some info to those who are interested
> So, i got my 6040UB 2 days ago... It was extremely hard for me to mount it perfectly the way i wanted in my dedicated theater room but eventually thankfully got it done right
> A few things about the projector:
> 1. it is HUGE.
> 2. it is NOT as heavy as i thought (23lbs).
> 3. it is GORGEOUS.
> 4. The back cable cover that comes with it sealed the deal on how beautiful it is.
> 5. The extra mount that came with it was a Chief elite. it only came with a 6" pipe, so had to go to Home Depot and construct a longer pipe for my scenario. After all said it done it came out beautiful. Also had to get a different ceiling bracket to replace the one it came with: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FL1OR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
> 5.1 The mount is VERY heavy, Sturdy and looks really professional.
> 6. A few things that i was VERY surprised to achieve....
> 6.1 I put in a MediaBridge 25" HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031TRZX2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it worked flawlessly with everything (detailed below).
> 
> Thanks for your input on the 6040 and hdmi cables.. I ordered a 6040 from Mike Garrett AV Sales yesterday and it will ship tomorrow, Monday...Anyway, I had some concern about my 4 year old Rocketfish 25ft hdmi cable being able to pass all the new 4k signals, 2.0 ect??..So I decided to just replace it, along with my hdmi cables from my receiver Marantz 7010 and Oppo 93..I thought why not?..I just spent $4k on a projector, why not spend $40 on new hdmi cables.....Just my thoughts
> 
> 
> 
> 100% agree!
> i got mine from mike as well, you will love it
Click to expand...


----------



## PioManiac

mase1981 said:


> Hi, it might be my Yamaha upscaling or similar. but i can tell you when i check the XBOX 4k info page these are green:
> *. Your TV supports 4K UHD (60Hz)
> *. Your TV supports 4K 10-bit at 60Hz
> *. Your TV supports HDR video/gaming.
> 
> Rather you chose to believe or not, i cant help with that lol .


That's awesome! Congrats!

I take it you had to put the Yamaha RX-A2060 into 4K Mode 1 in the advanced menu?
The default setting is Mode 2 and many on the Yamaha threads claim it won't pass 4K 10-Bit at 60Hz.


----------



## ndabunka

McBadden said:


> I was initially under the impression the casing was some sort of external cladding, not that it would require me to disassemble my baby. So even if they come out with one for the 5040 I will have to pass. Definitely not going to void my warranty for the sake of aesthetics. Besides, the white contrasting against the black accoustic tiles has grown on me. I'm proud of it and kinda like how it stands out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


Me too. Proof attached


----------



## gnolivos

So no one else feels that 24p content in general looks kind of weird on this projector? Like it's 15 frames per second. Fast action you can see every frame. I really don't know how else to describe it.


----------



## ndabunka

Threefiddie said:


> you are the only one ever. unless the 6040 has something different than the 5040 to do it. even epson acknowledged it won't work. interesting. in fact like the only player that will work with hdr is the phillips so far... so... weird.


The panasonic also works


----------



## mase1981

Threefiddie said:


> i find that hard to believe.


ok, i tested again and Yup, you were right.... 
Even though the XBOX says HDR enabled the epson info page shows "SDR"..
Well, there goes that theory... At least i am glad i got confirmation/justification to spending the extra money getting the Phillips lol....


----------



## mase1981

PioManiac said:


> That's awesome! Congrats!
> 
> I take it you had to put the Yamaha RX-A2060 into 4K Mode 1 in the advanced menu?
> The default setting is Mode 2 and many on the Yamaha threads claim it won't pass 4K 10-Bit at 60Hz.


i take that back on the xbox, the xbox might show 4k HDR , but the Epson itself under info menu will show SDR. 
and yes, to your question.


----------



## flyinmunky99

gnolivos said:


> So no one else feels that 24p content in general looks kind of weird on this projector? Like it's 15 frames per second. Fast action you can see every frame. I really don't know how else to describe it.


I Couldn't get settled with the general motion of the image with FI on or off, something about it lacked consistency or clarity compared to my old Epson. I have read currently the FI software is bugged on these new modes and will be fixed with Firmware update.

I couldn't get settled with it though and I returned it and am now looking for something else but for the price/features its hard.


----------



## gnolivos

flyinmunky99 said:


> I Couldn't get settled with the general motion of the image with FI on or off, something about it lacked consistency or clarity compared to my old Epson. I have read currently the FI software is bugged on these new modes and will be fixed with Firmware update.
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't get settled with it though and I returned it and am now looking for something else but for the price/features its hard.




Interesting. Where did you read about this? I'd like to investigate further.


----------



## flyinmunky99

gnolivos said:


> Interesting. Where did you read about this? I'd like to investigate further.


http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/

Its half way down under section motion comparison.


----------



## gnolivos

flyinmunky99 said:


> http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/
> 
> 
> 
> Its half way down under section motion comparison.




Thanks! I think they talk about issues wth FI feature ON. I have issues with it OFF though.


----------



## Josuah

mase1981 said:


> ok, i tested again and Yup, you were right....
> Even though the XBOX says HDR enabled the epson info page shows "SDR"..
> Well, there goes that theory...


That's because HDR is 10-bit. The extra 2 bits of data is what provides the additional dynamic range. The last green checkbox for HDR is because the EDID is advertising HDR support. But the Xbox One S requires 10-bit at 60Hz to be happy.


----------



## flyinmunky99

gnolivos said:


> Thanks! I think they talk about issues wth FI feature ON. I have issues with it OFF though.


Just for reference when I asked on there facebook page they said the LS10000 had better motion (without FI) also, but that's probably due to reflective panels.

I had similar impression as you have when playing 24p Bluray.


----------



## gnolivos

flyinmunky99 said:


> Just for reference when I asked on there facebook page they said the LS10000 had better motion (without FI) also, but that's probably due to reflective panels.
> 
> 
> 
> I had similar impression as you have when playing 24p Bluray.




Thanks. I don't understand how more people aren't bothered by it. I watched stand up comedy last night via Netflix (newest one by Russell Peters) and the motion was extremely distracting. I'm not sure whether the underlying signal was 24p, because the PS3 masks it with 60hz to the Epson.


----------



## Alad

Greetings all! First off, if you're trolling around trying to decide whether or not to upgrade your 5030ub to the 5040ub, I say a resounding GO FOR IT!! It's a huge improvement. Ps. And it's HUGE! It looked so similar that I was quite shocked at how much bigger it is. But it fit and looks amazing, so WOOT!

My question is:

What is the difference between Cinema and Digital Cinema? And should I be using one over the other? 

5040Ube
Marantz Sr5011
Xbox One S (got this just for the 4k/UHD stuff)
PS4
Apple TV


----------



## flyinmunky99

gnolivos said:


> Thanks. I don't understand how more people aren't bothered by it. I watched stand up comedy last night via Netflix (newest one by Russell Peters) and the motion was extremely distracting. I'm not sure whether the underlying signal was 24p, because the PS3 masks it with 60hz to the Epson.


I was using a PS4. I found static images to look good but when motion was introduced it just didn't feel good enough. FI on low was a no go straight away as I saw artefacts. Shame really as its got low input lag for gaming and accepts 4K. Not much else around with features for same price.


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> So no one else feels that 24p content in general looks kind of weird on this projector? Like it's 15 frames per second. Fast action you can see every frame. I really don't know how else to describe it.


I do not feel that way at all. Have you viewed another projector to make sure something isn't wrong with yours? If so, and you are still distracted, I recommend returning and buying something else. I suffer from RBE on DLP very strongly. If something bothers you during the viewing experience, it will never go away. 

I'd hate for you to return if its something obvious though. Could you give us some more info? How are you connected via HDMI, what devices in the display chain?


----------



## gnolivos

PS3 directly to Epson. I have tried 2 identical Epson 5040.


----------



## decapitate85

I have the chance to swap my 9300 (european) with the wireless version. Very happy with 9300 (I still don't have any 4k player since I'm using an htpc with jriver+madvr). The hdmi cable is already passed, so the only reason to change with wireless version would be more future-proof (and also white plastic chassis which will make my girlfriend happier). Is it real that wifi has more bandwidth? What would you do?

Inviato dal mio LG-D855 utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## decapitate85

Forgot to mention that I only use it for movies. Waiting for new pc software and optical drive to play uhd movies.

Inviato dal mio LG-D855 utilizzando Tapatalk


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> PS3 directly to Epson. I have tried 2 identical Epson 5040.


Have you tried another player?


----------



## WynsWrld98

flyinmunky99 said:


> I Couldn't get settled with the general motion of the image with FI on or off, something about it lacked consistency or clarity compared to my old Epson. I have read currently the FI software is bugged on these new modes and will be fixed with Firmware update.
> 
> I couldn't get settled with it though and I returned it and am now looking for something else but for the price/features its hard.


What model # was your previous Epson?


----------



## flyinmunky99

WynsWrld98 said:


> What model # was your previous Epson?


Epson tw5500 ( Think its 9500ub in US)


----------



## gnolivos

c.kingsley said:


> Have you tried another player?




Yes. All 3 players I have. Roku, PS3, Philips UHD


----------



## Kelvin1000

Josuah said:


> That's because HDR is 10-bit. The extra 2 bits of data is what provides the additional dynamic range. The last green checkbox for HDR is because the EDID is advertising HDR support. But the Xbox One S requires 10-bit at 60Hz to be happy.




What are the correct setting for the Xbox One S?
I can choose 8bit or 10bit.


----------



## Josuah

Kelvin1000 said:


> What are the correct setting for the Xbox One S?
> I can choose 8bit or 10bit.


Correct settings to accomplish what? With the Epson 5040UB, you cannot output 4Kp60 10-bit.


----------



## ndabunka

Kelvin1000 said:


> What are the correct setting for the Xbox One S?
> I can choose 8bit or 10bit.


Setting it in the garbage can could be correct :laugh:
at least until an update to it's software permits the owner to set it to a lower than 60Hz refresh rate which would then make it compatible with these Epsons


----------



## c.kingsley

ndabunka said:


> Setting it in the garbage can could be correct :laugh:
> at least until an update to it's software permits the owner to set it to a lower refresh rate then 60Hz


Which is odd because the original XB1 does 24Hz output on blu ray.


----------



## mase1981

Added the codes for 6040. Let's hope logi will make it available to all of its not automatic. There were a lot of missing buttons added them all. Thank you for your suggestions


----------



## morellihugo

*Roku premiere+ HDR*

Hi, today I got a new roku premiere+ and I can confirm that at least with Amazon prime video UHD my 5040ube is getting 4K HDR 8 bit 420 bt2020. I tried Netflix but it ultra HD doesn't work... (My Netflix subscription is 4 screen with 4K).


----------



## gnolivos

What's the deal with Netflix on the Roku Premiere? I get 4K using the Roku 4 no problem with Netflix.


----------



## Waikis

morellihugo said:


> Hi, today I got a new roku premiere+ and I can confirm that at least with Amazon prime video UHD my 5040ube is getting 4K HDR 8 bit 420 bt2020. I tried Netflix but it ultra HD doesn't work... (My Netflix subscription is 4 screen with 4K).


Wait, I've always thought that bt 2020 is only available with 10bit?


----------



## JewDaddy

Does anyone know how to connect the epson 5040 to wifi? I can't seem to figure it out.

*Edit - Nevermind. Looked at the manual and realized you need a separate USB wireless LAN adapter to make it work. Doesn't matter anyways because I thought you could update firmware through the Internet. Has to be USB. Couldn't get it to work at first but once I formatted my drive to Fat32, it accepted the update just fine and now running version 105


----------



## Viche

BmanAVS said:


> i just figured it out. Pure stupidity. Hdmi cable plugged into hdmi 2 vs hdmi 1. Sorry guys! crazy though i still got a message saying projector doesnt support hdr but at least now i am getting 4k 12 bit 4:2:2 out using direct connect with philips. Now to figure what to keep lol.


Still wondering....what are the Samsung and Xbox One sending now that you are using the correct HDMI port? Before you had said that both were sending 1080p / 4:4:4 / 8 or 10-bit / Rec 709...


----------



## ricjor1

Alad said:


> Greetings all! First off, if you're trolling around trying to decide whether or not to upgrade your 5030ub to the 5040ub, I say a resounding GO FOR IT!! It's a huge improvement. Ps. And it's HUGE! It looked so similar that I was quite shocked at how much bigger it is. But it fit and looks amazing, so WOOT!
> 
> I've been going back and forth about going from my 5030ub to the 5040ub, because I haven't had an opportunity to compare the two side by side. My friend recently had an opportunity to compare the two and advised me not to make the change...he said there is a difference, but not significant enough to change. In addition, I don't have any 4K sources.


----------



## chiltonj

ricjor1 said:


> Alad said:
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings all! First off, if you're trolling around trying to decide whether or not to upgrade your 5030ub to the 5040ub, I say a resounding GO FOR IT!! It's a huge improvement. Ps. And it's HUGE! It looked so similar that I was quite shocked at how much bigger it is. But it fit and looks amazing, so WOOT!
> 
> I've been going back and forth about going from my 5030ub to the 5040ub, because I haven't had an opportunity to compare the two side by side. My friend recently had an opportunity to compare the two and advised me not to make the change...he said there is a difference, but not significant enough to change. In addition, I don't have any 4K sources.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the same boat and not fully convinced to go from my 6030 to 6040.
> So, I'd ask this question to see if you all can help. My watching habits in my dedicated, light controlled theater are as follows:
> 1080p HD TV 80%
> (Sports 75%, Movies 20%, some random stupid show 5%)
> 
> Nap 5%
> (interrupted by wife and or kids 100%)
> 
> Blu-ray movies 15% (I do like watching movies with the best video/audio).
> 
> On my 6030, sports (football, soccer etc) get blurry quite a bit. This could be the projector, source, or my AVR but it's annoying. The information out there proclaims that the 6030 handles sports great which would be one of the main factors for upgrading.
> 
> Thanks for your feedback all.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## welldun

gnolivos said:


> Thanks. I don't understand how more people aren't bothered by it. I watched stand up comedy last night via Netflix (newest one by Russell Peters) and the motion was extremely distracting. I'm not sure whether the underlying signal was 24p, because the PS3 masks it with 60hz to the Epson.


Hello,
is the issue only there when viewing material that is being "streamed" or do blu-rays and other media exhibit the same?


----------



## gnolivos

welldun said:


> Hello,
> 
> is the issue only there when viewing material that is being "streamed" or do blu-rays and other media exhibit the same?



I've mentioned before, I see it in all players all sources as long as it is 24p. I think I may be more sensitive than others.


----------



## trainfan

*but from 5010e to 5040ube ?*



Alad said:


> Greetings all! First off, if you're trolling around trying to decide whether or not to upgrade your 5030ub to the 5040ub, I say a resounding GO FOR IT!! It's a huge improvement. Ps. And it's HUGE! It looked so similar that I was quite shocked at how much bigger it is. But it fit and looks amazing, so WOOT!
> 
> I've been going back and forth about going from my 5030ub to the 5040ub, because I haven't had an opportunity to compare the two side by side. My friend recently had an opportunity to compare the two and advised me not to make the change...he said there is a difference, but not significant enough to change. In addition, I don't have any 4K sources.




- But I am trolling around trying to decide to upgrade from the 5010e to the 5040ube, I have spent the last two weeks changing settings on my 5010e and now have my picture quality much higher than before. And this is with a bulb with 3900 hours on it. 
So really up in the air on whether to upgrade or not .
Wish I could see one in person.


----------



## Kelvin1000

gnolivos said:


> I've mentioned before, I see it in all players all sources as long as it is 24p. I think I may be more sensitive than others.



I believe that this has more to do with the source material than with the equipment.

I notice the same effect hat you are referring to on some 24p content with the Epson 5040, the JVC x550r and my Pioneer Kuro plasma.

I have also tried all of the above mentioned displays with PS3, PS4, Samsung 8500 and the Panasonic ub900 (my current player of choice) and it makes very little difference.

Even "reference material" like Life of Pi has some trouble on certain scenes. For example, the beginning of the chapter in the church when the camera pans down in the field.

All displays that I have tried show me the same result unless I use a lot of frame interpolation which I don't enjoy.


----------



## Ronman79

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## trainfan

how much does the pixel shifting improve the picture when watching live sports? Mainly Football


----------



## Docj04

trainfan said:


> how much does the pixel shifting improve the picture when watching live sports? Mainly Football



Great question! I'd also like to know this, as I just took delivery last friday, and will be getting the room set up really soon. I expect a lot of remaining sunday ticket days to be at my house!


----------



## ndabunka

Docj04 said:


> Great question! I'd also like to know this, as I just took delivery last friday, and will be getting the room set up really soon. I expect a lot of remaining sunday ticket days to be at my house!


We will look forward to your report then


----------



## gnolivos

trainfan said:


> how much does the pixel shifting improve the picture when watching live sports? Mainly Football




For me the biggest benefit is that when enabled, the pixel shifting dramatically improves the pixel fill rate. I never turn it off! You can sit way closer now without seeing the pixel grid. It really is amazing in that sense.


----------



## nickoakdl

trainfan said:


> how much does the pixel shifting improve the picture when watching live sports? Mainly Football


Depends on your service. I use Comcast and football looks pretty crappy no matter what. Waaay too compressed.


----------



## Kelvin1000

nickoakdl said:


> Depends on your service. I use Comcast and football looks pretty crappy no matter what. Waaay too compressed.




Depends on the channel too...
Local games for me are not that great.
Prime time games on Thursday, Sunday and Monday nights look a lot better.


----------



## trainfan

nickoakdl said:


> Depends on your service. I use Comcast and football looks pretty crappy no matter what. Waaay too compressed.



Yes the close ups between plays look great, but the zoomed out view for the actual plays looks terrible, really have to wonder what kind of cameras they use for the live action


I have Direct TV and NFL sunday ticket for my service, 




gnolivos said:


> For me the biggest benefit is that when enabled, the pixel shifting dramatically improves the pixel fill rate. I never turn it off! You can sit way closer now without seeing the pixel grid. It really is amazing in that sense.



does it make a noticeable difference on the zoomed out live action shots during the football plays ?


----------



## Docj04

ndabunka said:


> We will look forward to your report then


LOL. I've got some serious setting up to do in the basement, not including flooring, and installing power receptacles and running HDMI (which cable) to the two possible PJ ceiling mount locations.

Off topic, but I just took delivery of the yamaha Rx-A2050 from AC4L. How do you like your 3060? I couldn't pass up the feature set on the 2050 for $999, despite the accusations that the amps in the yammies are weak compared to the rest of the market when bench tested on the all Irrelevant "sine wave test"...


----------



## nickoakdl

trainfan said:


> Yes the close ups between plays look great, but the zoomed out view for the actual plays looks terrible, really have to wonder what kind of cameras they use for the live action
> 
> 
> I have Direct TV and NFL sunday ticket for my service,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does it make a noticeable difference on the zoomed out live action shots during the football plays ?


Comcast looks pretty bad either way. Even the static graphics on the screen that display the score get all broken up anytime there is something going on.


----------



## chiltonj

nickoakdl said:


> Comcast looks pretty bad either way. Even the static graphics on the screen that display the score get all broken up anytime there is something going on.


This is on the 5040, right? I have same experience with DirectTV on a 5030 and it depends on the channel. Closeups look great, zoomed out and it gets not so sharp. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

Docj04 said:


> LOL. I've got some serious setting up to do in the basement, not including flooring, and installing power receptacles and running HDMI (which cable) to the two possible PJ ceiling mount locations.
> 
> Off topic, but I just took delivery of the yamaha Rx-A2050 from AC4L. How do you like your 3060? I couldn't pass up the feature set on the 2050 for $999, despite the accusations that the amps in the yammies are weak compared to the rest of the market when bench tested on the all Irrelevant "sine wave test"...


LOL - I guess the term "really soon" may have been a bit over-optomistic in your reply then.

The A3060 is a nice unit. As you can tell from my prior posts I used to have one of the original 7.1 channel Yammy RX-V2400 (no HDMI connections) prior to this one. It had all the power needed and the 3060 continues that task with the additional 4 Atmos speakers (2 of which are powered off two channels of my Niles WHA amp). The 2060 won't leave you wishing for more power at all.

Other than needing the HDMI for full Atmos, I also wanted to replace the out-dated AVR & WHA control software that I was previously using with the newer system built into this receiver. It works very well and gives me the ability to control not only the HT but the entire sources and volume controls for the WHA all from a cell phone or windows interface.

See my signature below or any of my 1/2 gazillion prior post in the HDMI cable thread.


----------



## nickoakdl

Overall I'm just extremely unimpressed with Comcast's video quality on a projector. It's pretty good on a 60" but blown up to 133" and it's merely passable. Netflix looks incredible though.


----------



## trainfan

nickoakdl said:


> Overall I'm just extremely unimpressed with Comcast's video quality on a projector. It's pretty good on a 60" but blown up to 133" and it's merely passable. Netflix looks incredible though.



The problem with most channels is they are broadcast in 720p or 1080i ESPN is 720P I don't think any broadcast channels are in 1080p


Netflix and VUDU are in 1080p Pretty sure HULU is also.


Had HBO Now to get caught up on game of thrones but didn't seem to have the best quality streaming


----------



## PeterJ101

Does anyone think that HDR with Xbox one S is possible to fix with a Firmware update by either Epson or Microsoft? Or is it a purely hardware issue?

Could the lack of HDR with Epson on many other players including Xbox one S be considered misleading or false advertising, by Epson not stating there is limited compatibility for HDR. 

Follow up question: When will the next round of new projectors be coming out from any company, and do you think HDR issues would be resolved by then.


----------



## rupedogg24

Just got my new Roku 4k hooked up. It's fantastic. The Smithsonian Earth 4K channel really shows off this projector. Amazingly bright and colorful running at 24hz. 










Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

Does Netflix 4K HDR work with the new roku?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

k3nnis said:


> Does Netflix 4K HDR work with the new roku?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Doesn't seem to work, although, it does say HDR next to the name of the show. It says HDR but doesn't output in HDR 4K.

Roku Display Setting: 4K UHD TV









Roku Display Setting: 4K UHD TV HDR (outputs Netflix at 1080p pool for some reason).










Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

^^^^^
Crap


----------



## rupedogg24

gnolivos said:


> ^^^^^
> Crap


LOL! My exact response. I won't return it as I'm upgrading from a gen 1 PrimeTV. Hope they firmware the kinks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## PeterJ101

Sorry if this has been posted already. This is from Epson's FAQ and states what Epson says are compatible signals for HDR. All I see are a lot of "NOs" 

How can they claim this as an HDR projector when it doesn't work for any signal? Or am I missing something important here? 


Compatible Signals

Display format	Chroma subsampling	8-bit (SDR only)	10-bit 12-bit
4K (60p) 4:4:4 No	No	No
4:2:2 No	No	No
4:2:0 Yes	No	No
4K (24p) 4:4:4 Yes	No	No
4:2:2 Yes	Yes	Yes*
4:2:0	This signal is not supported.


WirelessHD Transmitter Compatible Signals (PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UBe only)

Display format	Chroma subsampling	8-bit (SDR only) 10-bit 12-bit
4K (60p) 4:4:4 No No No
4:2:2  No No No
4:2:0 Yes No No
4K (24p) 4:4:4 Yes Yes* Yes*
4:2:2 Yes Yes Yes*
4:2:0	This signal is not supported.

*This signal is processed at 4:2:2 10-bit.


----------



## rupedogg24

gnolivos said:


> ^^^^^
> Crap


Looks like it's an issue with the Netflix app. Here is Man In The High Castle running in UHD HDR on the Amazon App.










Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

I'm holding off for a PS4 pro. I hope it supports HDR. Sony has a good track record of constantly updating the console so we will see. I loved my PS3 for bluray with constant updates keeping it relevant


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks hope this gets fixed soon


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

rupedogg24 said:


> Looks like it's an issue with the Netflix app. Here is Man In The High Castle running in UHD HDR on the Amazon App.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk




Can you run it at 10bit 4:2:0?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ricjor1

I took the Jungle Book Blu-ray to Bjorn's today to view it on the Epson 6040. Unfortunately, they don't have the 5040. It only took 10 seconds to notice how much better the contrast was on the 6040. The brightness, color of the trees, color/detail of the birds in the first few minutes of the movies was significantly better. The screen was a Screen Innovations Slate, which is the same screen I use. In addition, the Blu-ray player was the same one I use. Now the only dilemma, 5040 or 6040?


----------



## k3nnis

Don't the 6040 and the 5040 have the same specs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Alad

ricjor1 said:


> Alad said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been going back and forth about going from my 5030ub to the 5040ub, because I haven't had an opportunity to compare the two side by side. My friend recently had an opportunity to compare the two and advised me not to make the change...he said there is a difference, but not significant enough to change. In addition, I don't have any 4K sources.
> 
> 
> 
> Well all I can say is that at 106" screen and 11 feet viewing distance, the 5040ub and its pixel shifting completely blew my mind and how much better it looked than my beloved 5030ub. My opinion. I then went out and got an Xbox one s for a little 4k source. LOVE IT!
Click to expand...


----------



## k3nnis

With the Xbox one S what 4K mode can you run it at with the Epson? 30hz 4:2:0. 10bit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Alad

Alad said:


> My question is:
> 
> What is the difference between Cinema and Digital Cinema? And should I be using one over the other?
> 
> 5040Ube
> Marantz Sr5011
> Xbox One S (got this just for the 4k/UHD stuff)
> PS4
> Apple TV


Any one have a clue about this ^^ ??

Also, is it possible to "force" HDR?? When playing a 4k HDR bluray on my Xbox One S, I switched the color space setting on the 5040ub to BT.2020 and it made the colors pop. Am I just screwing with it and faking an "improvement"????


----------



## gnolivos

Alad said:


> Any one have a clue about this ^^ ??
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is it possible to "force" HDR?? When playing a 4k HDR bluray on my Xbox One S, I switched the color space setting on the 5040ub to BT.2020 and it made the colors pop. Am I just screwing with it and faking an "improvement"????




Both of those modes use the color filter in the light path. I believe no other mode uses it. Don't know the differences though. 

I don't think you should be changing the color space settings. They need to match the source, as does Auto mode. I tried what you are saying once, noticed the pop but it looked really unnatural with blown out bright areas and crushed darks. It's not a good look.


----------



## rupedogg24

k3nnis said:


> Can you run it at 10bit 4:2:0?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not from what I can see. Maybe someone has had success on another streamer/player.


----------



## k3nnis

rupedogg24 said:


> Not from what I can see. Maybe someone has had success on another streamer/player.


ok thanks


----------



## Josuah

c.kingsley said:


> Which is odd because the original XB1 does 24Hz output on blu ray.


I think the Xbox One S will switch to 4Kp24 for a 4K Blu-ray, but the problem is it won't get that far unless your display first does 4Kp60 10-bit?



rupedogg24 said:


> Looks like it's an issue with the Netflix app. Here is Man In The High Castle running in UHD HDR on the Amazon App.


Doesn't look like that is really HDR since it says 8-bit. But it is engaging BT.2020 HDR2 mode on the projector.



k3nnis said:


> With the Xbox one S what 4K mode can you run it at with the Epson? 30hz 4:2:0. 10bit?


I think you can run 4Kp60 8-bit RGB. But you won't get BT.2020 or HDR from a 4K Blu-ray or 4K streaming services if I remember correctly.


----------



## ac388

Mike Garrett said:


> I think this will be a daunting task to get everything back together and working perfectly. Also I am pretty sure that it will void your warranty. Imagine telling your car dealer that you took your new car completely apart and now, after putting it back together it has a problem. Do you think your dealer will fix it under warranty?


Agreed. But wonder why people entertain this idea, it's not as easy as changing your phone case !!!


----------



## ac388

Josuah said:


> I think the Xbox One S will switch to 4Kp24 for a 4K Blu-ray, but the problem is it won't get that far unless your display first does 4Kp60 10-bit?
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't look like that is really HDR since it says 8-bit. But it is engaging BT.2020 HDR2 mode on the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you can run 4Kp60 8-bit RGB. But you won't get BT.2020 or HDR from a 4K Blu-ray or 4K streaming services if I remember correctly.


So you think Epson is faking it ! I thought HDR is like Dolby Atmos that one cannot implement it, but can only get it if the files are encoded with it. Right ???


----------



## rogermoore123

I have read all of both threads and the review links as well as the manual and am concerned about the 24p motion playback. Is there a 4:4 pulldown option in the menu like on my old epson to reduce judder on panning for 24p material ?


----------



## gnolivos

rogermoore123 said:


> I have read all of both threads and the review links as well as the manual and am concerned about the 24p motion playback. Is there a 4:4 pulldown option in the menu like on my old epson to reduce judder on panning for 24p material ?




No there isn't. Epson however has confirmed it does a 10:10 pull down on 24p content. (240hz)


----------



## rogermoore123

gnolivos said:


> No there isn't. Epson however has confirmed it does a 10:10 pull down on 24p content. (240hz)


Even better ! That should make for some smooth playback. The people with motion problems with FI turned off must just have incorrect settings somewhere.
Thanks for the quick reply -time to let the moths out of the wallet.


----------



## zombie10k

gnolivos said:


> No there isn't. Epson however has confirmed it does a 10:10 pull down on 24p content. (240hz)


hi, you're not alone with the issue you reported with 24p playback. I wonder if there are certain batches affected if everyone isn't seeing the same thing. 



RickAVManiac said:


> I put some hours on the 5040 this weekend and I can say that there something wrong with the 24fps motion on this projector. I read about that in another thread and can confirm the issue is real. *When send a 24fps signal (any movie), the motion look like 15 fps.* (eshift on or off). Seem also related to image quality. Some 720p sources look like crap, Older 1080p sources look bad, new 1080p source look barely ok and 4k seem just ok. *I try to play with all setting but nothing seem to change that. *The 60fps signal seem to look ok.


----------



## BmanAVS

Viche said:


> Still wondering....what are the Samsung and Xbox One sending now that you are using the correct HDMI port? Before you had said that both were sending 1080p / 4:4:4 / 8 or 10-bit / Rec 709...


Viche,

I haven't forgotten you. I am traveling and won't have ability to confirm things for you until the weekend.

Bman.


----------



## wbcollegekid

*Streaming with HDR*

I think in order to get HDR via streaming, the streaming content will need to be sent from the player at 24p. Netflix needs to better partner with streaming devices to implement this option. Hopefully the new google device will allow for Netflix content at 24p rather than 60p.


----------



## bontrager

gnolivos said:


> Performed update procedure today. It was a breeze. Love owning a product I can update myself. My old projector didn't allow that. Had to be sent in. Ugh.


Please share how you did this. I went thru the whole menu including the network tab and didn't see anything about an "update" choice.

thank you


----------



## bontrager

BmanAVS said:


> Viche,
> 
> I haven't forgotten you. I am traveling and won't have ability to confirm things for you until the weekend.
> 
> Bman.


Last week an Epson tech told me that the One S and the Samsung would not work.

Maybe something has changed


----------



## mase1981

bontrager said:


> Please share how you did this. I went thru the whole menu including the network tab and didn't see anything about an "update" choice.
> 
> thank you


you need to download the update, format a USB drive to either FAT or FAT32
move the downloaded file to the USB
take out ur projector power cable
plug in the USB
click the power button and then re attach the power cable
u will see the 3 status lights go on, keep pressing. when they are solid after about 7 seconds release, they will start flashing meaning the update is being written to the device
the projector will turn itself off, when it does take out the usb and power it back on
done.


----------



## gnolivos

zombie10k said:


> hi, you're not alone with the issue you reported with 24p playback. I wonder if there are certain batches affected if everyone isn't seeing the same thing.




Hi zombie. Wow that is EXACTLY how I describe the issue myself. Where was this posted? Thanks!!


----------



## chiltonj

k3nnis said:


> Don't the 6040 and the 5040 have the same specs?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Per projectorcentral.com, other than being black vs white, the 6040 has the same features as the 5040 with the following extras:
ISF Certification 
3 year warranty (vs 2)
Ceiling mount, cable cover
Extra lamp
Available via CEDIA and specialty dealers only 

Also noted on the site is that compared to the 5030/6030, the xx40 models are new from the ground up. 
http://www.projectorcentral.com/pro...Unveils-New-4K-Home-Theater-Line&entry_id=712

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## bontrager

mase1981 said:


> you need to download the update, format a USB drive to either FAT or FAT32
> move the downloaded file to the USB
> take out ur projector power cable
> plug in the USB
> click the power button and then re attach the power cable
> u will see the 3 status lights go on, keep pressing. when they are solid after about 7 seconds release, they will start flashing meaning the update is being written to the device
> the projector will turn itself off, when it does take out the usb and power it back on
> done.


Keep pressing the power button?????


Thank you!!!!!!!!!


----------



## dvdwilly3

chiltonj said:


> Per projectorcentral.com, other than being black vs white, the 6040 has the same features as the 5040 with the following extras:
> ISF Certification
> 3 year warranty (vs 2)
> Ceiling mount, cable cover
> Extra lamp
> Available via CEDIA and specialty dealers only
> 
> Also noted on the site is that compared to the 5030/6030, the xx40 models are new from the ground up.
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/pro...Unveils-New-4K-Home-Theater-Line&entry_id=712
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


There is one statement that is wrong here, and I have seen it stated repeatedly...

The 6040UB does NOT include ISF certification.

What is DOES include is..."Exceptional video performance — includes ISF®-certified calibration tools and lockable memory modes to ensure accurate performance"

This quotation is from the 6040UB specifications on the Epson website.

Including the necessary tools for calibration and being calibrated are two different things.

If I am incorrect, I would be more than happy to have someone correct me.


----------



## MUTTS

Good morning. Close to pulling the trigger on the 6040 for sports/movies/gaming.

Wondering how you think the image would look from 11.5 feet front row, 18 feet second row on a 153 diagonal 2.35:1 (123 inch diag for 16:9tv).

Thanks


----------



## DanGraney

rupedogg24 said:


> Looks like it's an issue with the Netflix app. Here is Man In The High Castle running in UHD HDR on the Amazon App.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


Hmmm, I didn't seem to get HDR out of Man In The High Castle... I only checked the first episode, however. Running the new Roku Premiere + through a Pioneer SC-97. I'll have to play with my settings, methinks.


----------



## chiltonj

dvdwilly3 said:


> There is one statement that is wrong here, and I have seen it stated repeatedly...
> 
> The 6040UB does NOT include ISF certification.
> 
> What is DOES include is..."Exceptional video performance — includes ISF®-certified calibration tools and lockable memory modes to ensure accurate performance"
> 
> This quotation is from the 6040UB specifications on the Epson website.
> 
> Including the necessary tools for calibration and being calibrated are two different things.
> 
> If I am incorrect, I would be more than happy to have someone correct me.


Also on Epson's site "...meets the ISF Certification standard". You do understand that being ISF compliant is a) having those calibration tools available within the projector (TV) and b) the training for professional engineers/calibrators. Being able to professionally calibrate to your specific environment means ISF certified. Not being professionally calibrated to your environment just means well, you may not be taking advantage of delivering the most accurate picture quality that is possible which a ISF certified projector can enable. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Nexgen76

dvdwilly3 said:


> There is one statement that is wrong here, and I have seen it stated repeatedly...
> 
> The 6040UB does NOT include ISF certification.
> 
> What is DOES include is..."Exceptional video performance — includes ISF®-certified calibration tools and lockable memory modes to ensure accurate performance"
> 
> This quotation is from the 6040UB specifications on the Epson website.
> 
> Including the necessary tools for calibration and being calibrated are two different things.
> 
> If I am incorrect, I would be more than happy to have someone correct me.



You are correct this is what Epson to me at CEDIA.


----------



## WestCDA

chiltonj said:


> Per projectorcentral.com, other than being black vs white, the 6040 has the same features as the 5040 with the following extras:
> ISF Certification
> 3 year warranty (vs 2)
> Ceiling mount, cable cover
> Extra lamp
> Available via CEDIA and specialty dealers only
> 
> Also noted on the site is that compared to the 5030/6030, the xx40 models are new from the ground up.
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/pro...Unveils-New-4K-Home-Theater-Line&entry_id=712
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


The 6040 also includes image stretch modes for support of anamorphic lenses and widescreen projection, same as the 6030. Those modes are not available on the 5040.


----------



## dvdwilly3

chiltonj said:


> Also on Epson's site "...meets the ISF Certification standard". You do understand that being ISF compliant is a) having those calibration tools available within the projector (TV) and b) the training for professional engineers/calibrators. Being able to professionally calibrate to your specific environment means ISF certified. Not being professionally calibrated to your environment just means well, you may not be taking advantage of delivering the most accurate picture quality that is possible which a ISF certified projector can enable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


My point being that OOB the 6040UB is not ISF calibrated...

As I said previously, the 6040UB is certified as having the tools to be calibrated, but it is NOT OOB calibrated...

That will affect the value proposition for some people. It is not a bad thing...they simply need to be aware of the difference.


----------



## chiltonj

dvdwilly3 said:


> My point being that OOB the 6040UB is not ISF calibrated...
> 
> As I said previously, the 6040UB is certified as having the tools to be calibrated, but it is NOT OOB calibrated...
> 
> That will affect the value proposition for some people. It is not a bad thing...they simply need to be aware of the difference.


Can't be calibrated because again, it's per your environment (lighting, room layout, screen, etc). 
Sorry, I guess it could be calibrated OOB to match a certain generic layout with factory presets but that wouldn't do any good. 
I think having the ability to professionally configure the projector to truly match my environment is the value proposition.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdwilly3

chiltonj said:


> Can't be calibrated because again, it's per your environment (lighting, room layout, screen, etc).
> Sorry, I guess it could be calibrated OOB to match a certain generic layout with factory presets but that wouldn't do any good.
> I think having the ability to professionally configure the projector to truly match my environment is the value proposition.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I understand that it could not realistically come OOB calibrated.

But, I have seen countless posts sayiyng that it comes with ISF calibration. It does not.

I agree with you 100% re value proposition...


----------



## chiltonj

Gotcha, true. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

bontrager said:


> Keep pressing the power button?????
> 
> 
> Thank you!!!!!!!!!


Hey said "keep pressing the power button" meaning to "HOLD DOWN" the power button. Not to press it numerous times.


----------



## Josuah

ac388 said:


> So you think Epson is faking it ! I thought HDR is like Dolby Atmos that one cannot implement it, but can only get it if the files are encoded with it. Right ???


No, I did not say the Epson 5040UB is faking HDR. I was answering specifically with respect to the Xbox One S app and the Epson 5040UB. I am able to get the Xbox One S to work with 4Kp60 8-bit RGB. I cannot get it to work with 4Kp60 10-bit because the Epson isn't able to receive that high a data rate.



wbcollegekid said:


> I think in order to get HDR via streaming, the streaming content will need to be sent from the player at 24p. Netflix needs to better partner with streaming devices to implement this option. Hopefully the new google device will allow for Netflix content at 24p rather than 60p.


Yes. Also, for whatever reason the Xbox One S wouldn't trigger 4Kp24 Bt.2020 HDR when I stuck a 4K Blu-ray disc into it. With the Epson 5040UB. Even though it should work. That's why I had to get the Philip BDP7501 to play 4K discs.


----------



## DanGraney

DanGraney said:


> Hmmm, I didn't seem to get HDR out of Man In The High Castle... I only checked the first episode, however. Running the new Roku Premiere + through a Pioneer SC-97. I'll have to play with my settings, methinks.




Argh. Not getting HDR... please don't be my HDMI cable

Never mind, I figured it out... and yeah, it's super dim. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## tklein2

tklein2 said:


> Hello. I have a JVC DILA-RS4910 with a new bulb (300 hours). I have asked some opinions on this, but would like a few more. I have a light controlled dedicated theater room with dark burgundy walls and ceiling and a dark carpet. Me and the projector sit approximately 16 feet away from a 120 inch 1.2 gain screen. I mostly watch football, tv and movies (pretty even % across the board during football season). Would it be a mistake to buy the new epson 5040 to replace my JVC? I use a Darbee Dartlet but, it only works with Directv... too many HDMI handshaking issues with FireTV and Blu-ray player. I think I would be happy with epson's supposed sharper picture, but would the contrast bother me too much? I would never use the dynamic IRIS on either machine, too noisy and too annoying! I always use ECO mode for the quietest operation, as the projector sits right over my head. One last thing about epson... I had the 5030 and kept it for 2 months, but ultimately got rid of it because it had a uniform white issue... there was a pink hue on the bottom 3rd of the screen. Hopefully this new lens fixes those issues. Thanks in advance for your opinions!!


I pulled the trigger on the 5040!! So far, I love it. Before I swapped out the 5040 for my JVC 4910 (with new bulb), I watched several minutes of Orphan Black in 1080p, I tried the UHD version, but my fire TV said my display was not HDCP 2.2 compliant. Anyway, after mounting the 5040 and performing a quick calibration, I quickly went to the same scenes in Orphan Black in UHD and it definitely looked much sharper. I'm very impressed with the new Epson lens/lcd system... edge to edge clarity is much better than the 5030 I had and much better than the JVC I'm currently replacing and that becomes even more obvious with 4K content. Keep in mind I sit about 14 feet from a 120 inch screen... so the extra detail and clarity is not lost on me. Color uniformity (pure white screen) is much improved over the 5030 and Panasonic's ( using the same Epson display tech ) I previously owned. It is not quite as good as the JVC, but can be adjusted to be pretty darn close. The black levels are not as good as the JVC, but apparently the sharper image is more important to me. I keep the auto IRIS off with it set to half open (10 out of 20) with the lamp in ECO mode and that makes the black levels look more than acceptable after looking at several scenes from the Star Wars 3 Blu-ray.

Now to the questions  I'm sure this has been discussed, I just can't find the answers... but for streaming I use the latest Amazon Fire TV (box not stick). It renders a 4k pixel count, but a color space of REC .709 regardless of whether I'm using the Netflix or Amazon Prime app. Is there a streamer out there that will get me the REC.2020? Does Netflix even offer .2020?


----------



## filter_sweep

Want to chime in with my impressions after about 15 hours so far. Got the 5040 mounted by Friday and was able to watch a couple 1080p blu-rays, some Comcast television and some atmos demos & games via my PC (in another room but connected through 50ft HDMI cable snaked through attic). 

My screen is a 150” 16:9 with Seymour XD acoustically transparent material. The room is not a pure bat cave, but it’s very dark… completely sealed with no windows, very dark grey (Behr “Cracked Pepper”) paint on most of walls and ceiling with some dark brown above the chair rail (except first 5’ of side walls are 100% dark grey), and dark grey carpet. My eyes are ~13ft from the screen in the first row of my theater, which is the main seating area. As this is my first projector, and coming from a Samsung plasma, I was really concerned with going so big on the screen because of needed lumens, screen door effect, and overall picture quality. I chose the 5040 over the Sony 45es because of the pixel shifting, not because I wanted to watch UHD so much, but to increase the sharpness sitting that close to a large screen. Impressions:



Image sharpness and clarity is outstanding with 1080p blu-rays! Watched the Fifth Element and Iron Man over the weekend and was jaw-dropping impressed. Well exceeded my expectations. I was swayed for a while by the JVC mob but gaming is too important to me so decided I had to go with the 5040… so glad I did. Blacks are extremely black to my eyes!
After playing with 4k enhancement levels I have mostly settled on setting #3. 
Natural color setting at medium lamp looks best to my eyes. Don’t feel the need to calibrate at this point, everything just looks right. Was really worried that I would need to run on high with a 150” screen, but I’m relieved that medium is perfect. Projector is mounted so lens is almost 100% open. 
Comcast HD cable is obviously softer looking than blu-rays, but still watchable. I may use lens memory to decrease the image size for TV watching. I don’t think I’ll watch movies recorded from cable anymore, just too soft sitting so close to a 150” screen. Time to grow my blu-ray collection.
I’m noticing a big difference in source quality. I watched an episode from the BBC Life nature documentary (Blu-Ray) and the use of different cameras was very apparent at times. I think that’s the sign of a good piece of gear… the ability to discern between the quality of source content. 
No perceptible noise from 4k enhancement and no issues with fast motion beyond the normal 24hz issues. Motion was great to my eyes when watching NFL football. 
I do hear the iris working when sound is off or extremely low, but can’t hear it working when the sound is at normal volumes. 
With 4k Image Enhancement off, the various FI setting don’t seem to make any difference to my eyes, not sure if it’s broken or my eyes just can’t tell. I personally hate the soap opera effect so never plan to use FI, but I do find it weird that I can’t see it working even on high. EDIT - I was testing this on 60hz content... after testing on 24hz content I can confirm the FI works just fine. Much prefer the 4k enhancement though, and can't have both at the same time.
PC input mirrors my computer monitor at 1440p, and games look great from my seating position. Text (e.g. web pages) is readable at that resolution but not that great as it’s not 4:4:4. Would not use this as a high resolution computer monitor, but for games or movies played from a PC it’s fantastic. Was a lot of fun to watch the Atmos demos to fully experience my new HT. 
 

Since this is my first projector I can’t give any comparisons to other PJs, and since I don’t have any 4k / HDR sources I can’t comment on those either. I will probably pick up a game console and UHD player around Black Friday, after which I’ll dive into that world. We’ll be living in a 1080p world for at least a few years though, and I’m super happy with this PJ for that purpose. 
I’ve read every word of this (and the other) thread and want to thank all the earliest adopters for helping me make an informed decision regarding the benefits and limitations of this PJ. I hope these impressions help anyone else out there with a similar setup and/or mindset. Thanks!!!


----------



## gnolivos

FI is pretty obvious when ON. do you see it working when 4K enhancement is on? You said no when OFF.


----------



## filter_sweep

gnolivos said:


> FI is pretty obvious when ON. do you see it working when 4K enhancement is on? You said no when OFF.




FI is greyed out when 4k enhancement is ON, so I have to turn 4k enhancement OFF to use the FI at all. Turning on FI though, and changing the settings, does nothing to the image that my eyes can see, which make me wonder if it's broken on my unit.


----------



## gnolivos

Well it works with bluray 24p and 4K on. Confirmed. It's actually one of the few instances it will enable. Mostly 24p content. And yes it's so obvious. Not sure what's going on with your unit.


----------



## k3nnis

So you guys think best way to watch 24p 1080p blu ray on the Epson is to turn 4K enhancement on? Or leave it off ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## filter_sweep

gnolivos said:


> Well it works with bluray 24p and 4K on. Confirmed. It's actually one of the few instances it will enable. Mostly 24p content. And yes it's so obvious. Not sure what's going on with your unit.




Well now that you mention it, I only tried to enable it twice, both while watching sports broadcasts (NFL football and F1 racing). Could it be that those sources were already 60hz, so the FI didn't do anything? I'll test it out on a Blu-ray tonight.


----------



## gnolivos

FI is greyed out for me on cable 60hz. Plus, it would make no sense on such frame rate


----------



## filter_sweep

k3nnis said:


> So you guys think best way to watch 24p 1080p blu ray on the Epson is to turn 4K enhancement on? Or leave it off ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




My vote is definitely on, very nice increase in sharpness without artifacts. This feature is the main reason I got this PJ.


----------



## gnolivos

k3nnis said:


> So you guys think best way to watch 24p 1080p blu ray on the Epson is to turn 4K enhancement on? Or leave it off ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I would always leave it on. It increases your pixel fill rate. And it does it without losing sharpness. Surprisingly.


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks guys 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## filter_sweep

gnolivos said:


> FI is greyed out for me on cable 60hz. Plus, it would make no sense on such frame rate




Is your 4k enhancement ON when watching cable at 60hz? I have to turn it off to un-grey the FI. But your comment is starting to make me think maybe mine isn't broken at all. I'll report back after some testing.


----------



## ndabunka

filter_sweep said:


> FI is greyed out when 4k enhancement is ON, so I have to turn 4k enhancement OFF to use the FI at all. Turning on FI though, and changing the settings, does nothing to the image that my eyes can see, which make me wonder if it's broken on my unit.


I also don't notice much difference with FI on or off so I doubt yours is broken. Some people are more sensitive to FI than others and therefore what some may find "very obvious" isn't to you or I. Perhaps we should identify specific content where FI may be more obvious than others so perhaps the others can tell us what content they are watching where it it more obvious


----------



## gnolivos

If you enable it on any bluray (they are 24 fps) then it should be very obvious. It will take it to perhaps 60fps or more. Not sure. If you can't see it, then I guess your brain is wired differently. Some people can't notice things that others can. I'm OCD and I notice EVERYTHING.


----------



## ndabunka

k3nnis said:


> So you guys think best way to watch 24p 1080p blu ray on the Epson is to turn 4K enhancement on? Or leave it off ?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


There is no reason to EVER turn it off. While true that 3D doesn't have a 4K component, the projector automatically recognizes that and turns it off for 3D content and then back on for non-3D


----------



## Mickey Mouse

i hope somebody who successfully updated the FW of the Epson may help me...

i've tried to update my TW9300 (honestly, i don't exactly know if it's the European version of the 5040 or 6040, but it doesn't really matter) and it doesn't work

i followed the instructions (power off, thumb drive (FAT, only the update file in root) into USB, insert power cord while press and hold the power button...), it starts, all lights are on and after very few seconds it switches off again...
i tried the same with the USB cable and a PC (ok, actually a MacBook) of course using the Mini USB port instead and the result is the same: insert power cord while pressing the power button, all lights on, release power button -> power off 

i have no clue what i'm doing wrong?

Regarding the trouble shooting guide the thumb drive and the PC/Mac aren't recognized. Even if i have the wrong FW update file, in case of the "USB cable method" the projector should be recognized as portable drive but it switches off and i don't have the chance to copy the update file.


----------



## gnolivos

Ok here's the thing. If you turn 4K off, it may allow you to enable FI on cable content etc. In that case though the source is likely 60hz and therefore you won't see a difference. 

Like I said, try it in bluray. Then decide if it is working.


----------



## Black Banshee

WestCDA said:


> The 6040 also includes image stretch modes for support of anamorphic lenses and widescreen projection, same as the 6030. Those modes are not available on the 5040.



Whoa. Just to confirm, the 5040 will still zoom for anamorphic content, right? I just bought the 5040 (doesn't arrive until next week). I have an anamorphic aspect ratio screen and want to make sure I can still zoom to fill the screen?


----------



## WestCDA

Black Banshee said:


> Whoa. Just to confirm, the 5040 will still zoom for anamorphic content, right? I just bought the 5040 (doesn't arrive until next week). I have an anamorphic aspect ratio screen and want to make sure I can still zoom to fill the screen?


No worries - yes, the 5040 will zoom to fill the wide aspect screen, pushing the projected 'black bars' above and below the screen. The difference is an anamorphic lens uses the full available panel resolution (and brightness) by having the projector (or an external processor) stretch the image to fit the full 16:9 frame, before the lens expands it to the full widescreen 2: 39/2:40 dimensions. 

I would expect the pixel shifting of the xx40 series should make the zoomed widescreen image look better than ever - and the power adjustments and selectable memories make it easier than ever to implement. Enjoy your new projector!


----------



## flint350

WestCDA said:


> No worries - yes, the 5040 will zoom to fill the wide aspect screen, pushing the projected 'black bars' above and below the screen. The difference is an anamorphic lens uses the full available panel resolution (and brightness) by having the projector (or an external processor) stretch the image to fit the full 16:9 frame, before the lens expands it to the full widescreen 2: 39/2:40 dimensions.
> 
> I would expect the pixel shifting of the xx40 series should make the zoomed widescreen image look better than ever - and the power adjustments and selectable memories make it easier than ever to implement. Enjoy your new projector!


I too was unaware the 5040 did not (itself) support aspect ratio, especially since there is a dedicated button on the remote. It's no biggie for me, as both my blu ray player and Denon AVR will do this and I can still use my anamorphic lens.


----------



## gnolivos

Black Banshee said:


> Whoa. Just to confirm, the 5040 will still zoom for anamorphic content, right? I just bought the 5040 (doesn't arrive until next week). I have an anamorphic aspect ratio screen and want to make sure I can still zoom to fill the screen?




It won't stretch which is what you'd really want for your lens. That would give you best use of resolution and brightness. The options are on the menu but they don't work for bluray HDMI for some reason. Or any HDMI source for that matter.

Edit: sorry I thought you said you had an anamorphic lens. So you'll be fine because you CAN zoom. Just not stretch.


----------



## morellihugo

Mickey Mouse said:


> i hope somebody who successfully updated the FW of the Epson may help me...
> 
> i've tried to update my TW9300 (honestly, i don't exactly know if it's the European version of the 5040 or 6040, but it doesn't really matter) and it doesn't work
> 
> i followed the instructions (power off, thumb drive (FAT, only the update file in root) into USB, insert power cord while press and hold the power button...), it starts, all lights are on and after very few seconds it switches off again...
> i tried the same with the USB cable and a PC (ok, actually a MacBook) of course using the Mini USB port instead and the result is the same: insert power cord while pressing the power button, all lights on, release power button -> power off
> 
> i have no clue what i'm doing wrong?
> 
> The same happened to me when I update the firmware. So, I deleted everything in the usb drive and format to FAT in my Windows 7 laptop (Previously, I tried formatting the usb drive on my MacBook Pro, but it doesn't work)... Then, from my windows laptop I downloaded the file in the usb drive directly. I followed the instructions, and it worked.


----------



## filter_sweep

gnolivos said:


> Ok here's the thing. If you turn 4K off, it may allow you to enable FI on cable content etc. In that case though the source is likely 60hz and therefore you won't see a difference.
> 
> Like I said, try it in bluray. Then decide if it is working.


Yep, you were right, I tried it in blu-ray and I can confirm that FI is working, definitely creates the soap opera effect when on the high FI setting. I went back and edited my original post so no one worries that some units have this broken. 

However, I was unable to get both 4k enhancement AND FI working at the same time on a 24hz source... at least from what the PJ was telling me... as soon as I enable one, the other one gets disabled or greyed out. My wife likes the FI effect so I wouldn't mind setting it on low while 4k enhancement is on, but no dice so far. Maybe one of these days I'll figure it out, not worried at all about it though because 40 years of watching 24hz movies have conditioned me to like the slow, blurry and juddery motion of film.


----------



## gnolivos

FI with 4K available ONLY with bluray. Been discussed many times! We need a FAQ


----------



## filter_sweep

gnolivos said:


> FI with 4K available ONLY with bluray. Been discussed many times! We need a FAQ


Agreed we need a FAQ... but just for clarity, my test tonight _was_ with a blu-ray. Did some web searching and Epson does have a FAQ with a note stating FI only works with 1080p @ 24hz, but it doesn't mention anything about conflicts with the 4k enhancement. Like I said, not a big deal to me either way, but I'm curious how this works for you but not for me. Will do some more digging.


----------



## cheesenbizkitz

Well, it seems as though the customer support for Epson in Australia isn't as good as it is in the US.

I had explained to them that I was having the issue of the annoying buzzing/whirring noise when 4K enhancement is on and that other people have got replacements that don't make the noise, so the noise isn't normal, and asked if I could get a replacement. They came back to me asking for links to where people were saying they got replacements and I sent them a few links to comments on this thread.

Now they've finally come back to me with this:



> Hi ****
> 
> We have run some tests and even though there is some noise produced under certain conditions, the noise output is still within the specifications of the product. As such we do not consider this issue a fault with the product.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Anthony


So apparently they've run some tests, and without any access to my projector, have said that the noise coming from it is within specification. To be fair, the noise is probably within the dB rating, but it's a very annoying noise that makes me want to just use 1080p content if I'm not going to be turning the volume up loud enough to drown it out.

I've considered just keeping it and dealing with the noise, but I've now had a few people comment on how loud the projector is, and that's even worse a feeling than having to put up with the noise myself. So I'm now going to attempt to return it to the store I bought it from and see how that goes. It does mean I'll be projectorless for a while if they do agree to replace it, but from what I've heard it is worth getting a replacement that doesn't have the noise.


----------



## filter_sweep

filter_sweep said:


> Agreed we need a FAQ... but just for clarity, my test tonight _was_ with a blu-ray. Did some web searching and Epson does have a FAQ with a note stating FI only works with 1080p @ 24hz, but it doesn't mention anything about conflicts with the 4k enhancement. Like I said, not a big deal to me either way, but I'm curious how this works for you but not for me. Will do some more digging.


The following is a copy / paste from the Projector Reviews review of the pre-production 6040:

"One important note: CFI does not work when pixel shifting is engaged, so there is a bit of an additional trade-off to consider – stick to standard 1080p/1080i when using it, or go for the extra detail using pixel shifting on 1080 or 4K content."

I now remember having read this when it was first published, which is why I suppose I never expected 4k enhancement and FI to work at the same time, regardless of content. You may want to double check to see if it really is working for you. If I have FI on and then I turn on 4k enhancement, it doesn't tell me FI is turned off until I go back into the menu and see it greyed out.


----------



## sgranger45

*Need advice pairing A/V Receiver and HDMI Cat7 driver modules with 5040UB*

Hi and thanks in advance for the help!

I have decided to purchase the *5040UB* but realize I will need to upgrade my Yamaha amp (circa 2010) that only supports 1080P HDMI to effectively use the 4K enhancement capability of the new Epson projector.

I am new to the projector world and obviously this will be my first big 4K UHD purchase. I am coming up to speed on HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2 and HDR content (it's a lot of numbers and makes my brain hurt!). Coming from the IT world, I know that having the correct path through the network with each component handshaking an playing nice with it's upstream and downstream neighbor is really important.

I have been reviewing the Denon AVR-X2300W and the Yamaha RX-A1050. In addition to the Epson 5040, I will be pairing the AVR with Definitive Technology 8040ST L/R speakers, the Definitive CS8040HD center channel speaker and the Definitive 8040BP surrounds. I have a Klipsch 10 inch powered sub to throw in the mix if the DT 8040's built in ones aren't enough. I will also have cables in place to expand from 5.1. to 7.1 when appropriate (meaning I pay off all this other gear!)

Content sources are Comcast X1 Cable (yuck, I know), the new Roku Ultimate 4K streaming device (when released this month), an OTA HD antenna in attic for locals (need some type of digital receiver), and possibly a 4K DVD player.

Also, since the projector to rack is about 30 ft., I have been advised to use Cat7 cable and HDMI converters on each end. I'd like to have the ones the use PPoE so I can just power the units at the rack and not the projector for a cleaner install. I am struggling with the right devices to buy here. (I plan to run 2 HDMI cables to utilize the 5040's PiP feature for sports). Should I be running any other cables between the 5040 and the rack? LAN cable, etc.?

So I appreciate any advice or recommendations on the AV receiver or HDMI signal drivers. And of course, anything I left out too!

P.S. I settled on a 110 inch screen with a centered viewing area from about 13.5 feet away. I think (hope) that's a great size! Lots of people on this forum have a tendency to "go bigger" on the screen thing! (not judging!)

Thanks much for reading!


----------



## gnolivos

filter_sweep said:


> The following is a copy / paste from the Projector Reviews review of the pre-production 6040:
> 
> 
> 
> "One important note: CFI does not work when pixel shifting is engaged, so there is a bit of an additional trade-off to consider – stick to standard 1080p/1080i when using it, or go for the extra detail using pixel shifting on 1080 or 4K content."
> 
> 
> 
> I now remember having read this when it was first published, which is why I suppose I never expected 4k enhancement and FI to work at the same time, regardless of content. You may want to double check to see if it really is working for you. If I have FI on and then I turn on 4k enhancement, it doesn't tell me FI is turned off until I go back into the menu and see it greyed out.




FI most definitely works on 1080p/24 from PS3 and with 4K on. No doubt. I am 100% sure. 

Make sure that you are receiving 24p from your player. See the info screen of the projector and it should say 24hz or close to that. If it says 60hz you won't be able to turn FI on. Good luck.


----------



## Josuah

tklein2 said:


> but for streaming I use the latest Amazon Fire TV (box not stick). It renders a 4k pixel count, but a color space of REC .709 regardless of whether I'm using the Netflix or Amazon Prime app. Is there a streamer out there that will get me the REC.2020? Does Netflix even offer .2020?


Netflix does offer 4K BT.2020 HDR. I wasn't able to figure out how to get it to work with the 5040 though. Maybe someone else has.


----------



## chiltonj

Hi Sgranger45-love my Def techs, almost have the same ones as you except my center is a 8060 or 8080, can't remember. The fronts have enough bass kick and can be tuned on the back of them with the bass knob. I'm in the same boat having an older (only 4 yrs old) onkyo very nice receiver, no 2.2 though. That yahama 1050 looks good though. No other cables needed to proj except power. BTW, I have 25' hdmi run and have had zero problems using a logi remote one with ir receiver sitting on top of my screen running back to equipment in another room. Always have the cables ready because you'll be getting Def techs for the rear soon enough 

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk


----------



## filter_sweep

sgranger45 said:


> Hi and thanks in advance for the help!
> 
> I have decided to purchase the *5040UB* but realize I will need to upgrade my Yamaha amp (circa 2010) that only supports 1080P HDMI to effectively use the 4K enhancement capability of the new Epson projector.
> 
> I am new to the projector world and obviously this will be my first big 4K UHD purchase. I am coming up to speed on HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2 and HDR content (it's a lot of numbers and makes my brain hurt!). Coming from the IT world, I know that having the correct path through the network with each component handshaking an playing nice with it's upstream and downstream neighbor is really important.
> 
> I have been reviewing the Denon AVR-X2300W and the Yamaha RX-A1050. In addition to the Epson 5040, I will be pairing the AVR with Definitive Technology 8040ST L/R speakers, the Definitive CS8040HD center channel speaker and the Definitive 8040BP surrounds. I have a Klipsch 10 inch powered sub to throw in the mix if the DT 8040's built in ones aren't enough. I will also have cables in place to expand from 5.1. to 7.1 when appropriate (meaning I pay off all this other gear!)
> 
> Content sources are Comcast X1 Cable (yuck, I know), the new Roku Ultimate 4K streaming device (when released this month), an OTA HD antenna in attic for locals (need some type of digital receiver), and possibly a 4K DVD player.
> 
> Also, since the projector to rack is about 30 ft., I have been advised to use Cat7 cable and HDMI converters on each end. I'd like to have the ones the use PPoE so I can just power the units at the rack and not the projector for a cleaner install. I am struggling with the right devices to buy here. (I plan to run 2 HDMI cables to utilize the 5040's PiP feature for sports). Should I be running any other cables between the 5040 and the rack? LAN cable, etc.?
> 
> So I appreciate any advice or recommendations on the AV receiver or HDMI signal drivers. And of course, anything I left out too!
> 
> P.S. I settled on a 110 inch screen with a centered viewing area from about 13.5 feet away. I think (hope) that's a great size! Lots of people on this forum have a tendency to "go bigger" on the screen thing! (not judging!)
> 
> Thanks much for reading!


Because the 5040 can't accept a signal anything greater than 10.2 gbps (enough for 4k @ 24hz @ 10 bit), you don't really need to worry that much about the cable or go down the HDMI converter at your 30ft length. I'm using a 35 ft Monoprice Cabernet cable from my AVR to the PJ without any issues, and there's a decent chance that cable will also work someday when I get a projector that can accept an 18gbps signal. Monoprice says it will support 18gbps up to 50ft but you never know. 

Regarding your screen size, this is something I debated for a long time and eventually went as big as my room would allow (150" 16:9 format) with the plan of masking it down if it was too big. My eyes in the front row are 13' from the screen and a 2:35 widescreen movie looks just right at that distance, very immersive but not too close. I couldn't be happier and I think I would have been disappointed if I had gone smaller. So glad the 5040 can put out enough lumens to light up a 150" screen, although my room is 100% light controlled so your mileage may very if you have to deal with sunlight. I think 110" is too small, I'd push to go at least 130" and mask it down if it's too big. 

Regarding receivers, you have a ton of options and it's hard to go wrong as long as it supports HDCP 2.2 you'll be fine. The big question you need to ask yourself is whether or not to go atmos / dts:x, which will be on all those 4k UHD disks you plan to buy... it's relatively cheap to put speakers in your ceiling if you're a little handy and the extra layer of immersion is worth it in my room (I have a 7.2.4 setup and I'm loving it). Using that many speakers shorten the list of receivers though and the price increases a lot... I picked up a close-out Denon x6200w that powers 9 channels and a 60wpc 2-channel amp for $100 from parts express to power the rear ceiling speakers. The Denon has great amps with tons of power, but the cost to get 11 channels of processing is a lot higher than a normal 7.1 receiver, but if you're in the market for a $3k PJ then I'd say you should also be in the market for a full atmos setup if you want to get the most from the experience. I really believe the audio is just as, if not more, important than the video when getting the full cinema experience. And the dolby surround and DTS neural x upconverters for non-atmos blu-rays are amazing... you will enjoy all of your blu-rays (and TV) more with overhead speakers. Imagine watching a football game and it literally sounding like you're in the crowd! Good luck with all your decisions...


----------



## tklein2

*Already Frustrated!*

OK, as I commented earlier today, I love the picture on my 5040, especially when streaming 4K from my Amazon FireTV box. However, I wanted to take advantage of HDR, which is at least half of the benefit of 4K. So, I bought a Roku Ultimate this evening and connected it. I can not find a single title in 4k let alone HDR on the Netflix app! From the Amazon app I found plenty, but the ones that worked fine from my FireTV do NOT work on the Roku... if I get anything, it starts in 4K then I see nothing but a purple screen and maybe hear the sound track. When I look at the projector picture info, it says 4K with 709 color space. What is going on? I did get only a couple to play, but most would not. Is it my HDMI cable? Is it because the Roku player is trying to put out 4K at 60 frames per second for the newer content and the 5040 can not handle it? Please let me know, as I will take this thing back and buy the JVC in a heart beat :-( Thanks.


----------



## k3nnis

Hi Guys,

Which media streamers/players will allow 4K HDR with netflix and amazon with the Epson 5040/6040?

Thanks,
K.


----------



## Dandlj

cheesenbizkitz said:


> Well, it seems as though the customer support for Epson in Australia isn't as good as it is in the US.
> 
> 
> 
> I had explained to them that I was having the issue of the annoying buzzing/whirring noise when 4K enhancement is on and that other people have got replacements that don't make the noise, so the noise isn't normal, and asked if I could get a replacement. They came back to me asking for links to where people were saying they got replacements and I sent them a few links to comments on this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Now they've finally come back to me with this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So apparently they've run some tests, and without any access to my projector, have said that the noise coming from it is within specification. To be fair, the noise is probably within the dB rating, but it's a very annoying noise that makes me want to just use 1080p content if I'm not going to be turning the volume up loud enough to drown it out.
> 
> 
> 
> I've considered just keeping it and dealing with the noise, but I've now had a few people comment on how loud the projector is, and that's even worse a feeling than having to put up with the noise myself. So I'm now going to attempt to return it to the store I bought it from and see how that goes. It does mean I'll be projectorless for a while if they do agree to replace it, but from what I've heard it is worth getting a replacement that doesn't have the noise.




I'd be interested to hear how you go, as I'm also in Australia and am going to purchase soon. Which model did you get and from whom?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## QuantumCosmos

QuantumCosmos said:


> One of the devices I have connected to my 5040ub is a Windows 10 PC with a Nvidia GTX 1070. The only Nvdia display settings option at 4K when connected to the projector is at 8 bit at YCbCr420 (no RGB, YCbCr444 or 422). Is this what others are getting too? I have the PC connected via hdmi to a pioneer 924VSX receiver with HDMI 2 out connected to projector. I have the HDMI 1 out connected to my Samsung 4K TV and my Nvdia setting detected there for 4k allow me to change to RGB, YCbCr444, 222, 220, and 8,10,12 bit.
> My receiver HDMI settings are at 4:4:4
> 
> What am I doing wrong? Will my current settings hurt my video performance.


Hi. Does anyone have a suggestion for this issue? I was hoping to get "RGB" color format and "full" output 
dynamic range. Is there a recommended display settings for Nvdia GTX cards for this projector, including what's refersh rate I should set it too?
Thanks


----------



## QuantumCosmos

QuantumCosmos said:


> Hi I have 2 Samsung 5150gb 3D glasses that's supposed to work with the 5040ub. I tried a couple of 3D movies on my PS4 but can't seems to sync the glasses. I've tried this when the projector detects a 3D source while pressing the power button on the glasses for a long time inches away from the projector, but it just blinks red and does not sync. I tried this with 2 of the same model glasses. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Hi Just checking if anyone can help me with this? I'd like to use my Samsung 5150Gb full active 3d glasses, which are compatible with this projector, but I can't see to sync. Thanks!


----------



## morellihugo

k3nnis said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Which media streamers/players will allow 4K HDR with netflix and amazon with the Epson 5040/6040?
> 
> Thanks,
> K.


I got the new roku premiere+, the first two days I wasn't able to have HDR on Netflix, only on Amazon. But yesterday night Netflix started showing HDR content... Maybe the roku have some update overnight, or maybe I'm having issues with my internet conection... I'm using audioquest pearl HDMI cables.


----------



## sgranger45

filter_sweep said:


> Because the 5040 can't accept a signal anything greater than 10.2 gbps (enough for 4k @ 24hz @ 10 bit), you don't really need to worry that much about the cable or go down the HDMI converter at your 30ft length. I'm using a 35 ft Monoprice Cabernet cable from my AVR to the PJ without any issues, and there's a decent chance that cable will also work someday when I get a projector that can accept an 18gbps signal. Monoprice says it will support 18gbps up to 50ft but you never know.
> 
> Regarding your screen size, this is something I debated for a long time and eventually went as big as my room would allow (150" 16:9 format) with the plan of masking it down if it was too big. My eyes in the front row are 13' from the screen and a 2:35 widescreen movie looks just right at that distance, very immersive but not too close. I couldn't be happier and I think I would have been disappointed if I had gone smaller. So glad the 5040 can put out enough lumens to light up a 150" screen, although my room is 100% light controlled so your mileage may very if you have to deal with sunlight. I think 110" is too small, I'd push to go at least 130" and mask it down if it's too big.
> 
> Regarding receivers, you have a ton of options and it's hard to go wrong as long as it supports HDCP 2.2 you'll be fine. The big question you need to ask yourself is whether or not to go atmos / dts:x, which will be on all those 4k UHD disks you plan to buy... it's relatively cheap to put speakers in your ceiling if you're a little handy and the extra layer of immersion is worth it in my room (I have a 7.2.4 setup and I'm loving it). Using that many speakers shorten the list of receivers though and the price increases a lot... I picked up a close-out Denon x6200w that powers 9 channels and a 60wpc 2-channel amp for $100 from parts express to power the rear ceiling speakers. The Denon has great amps with tons of power, but the cost to get 11 channels of processing is a lot higher than a normal 7.1 receiver, but if you're in the market for a $3k PJ then I'd say you should also be in the market for a full atmos setup if you want to get the most from the experience. I really believe the audio is just as, if not more, important than the video when getting the full cinema experience. And the dolby surround and DTS neural x upconverters for non-atmos blu-rays are amazing... you will enjoy all of your blu-rays (and TV) more with overhead speakers. Imagine watching a football game and it literally sounding like you're in the crowd! Good luck with all your decisions...


Thanks filter_sweep! Thanks for making my decision even harder! (JK - i really do appreciate the info.) Regarding the screen, I have a 120" screen masked off as a tape box on the wall right now. Of course, coming from the world of 55-60" LCD's, it looks massive! I will get used to it (in a good way).

I am a big fan of closeout and used gear if I can see it and trust it. I just picked up the entire Definitive Tech speaker setup to $800. They are all basically brand new (a rich guy had them in his second house here in Atlanta, GA that he never used. He was selling the house and had them packed away in a public storage warehouse). Do you have suggested sites to look for closeout items? What are your thoughts about reforms? I know the warranty is shorter but for a 30-50% discount, it might be worth it. I am assuming I can use my existing Yamaha amp to power something!? I hate that it's such a clean powerful amp and it's just the video switching that ages out so fast (and the audio decode obviously). I wish the industry developed so that the video and audio encoding were separate devices and we stuck to good old fashioned power amps. I know you can do this but it's either expensive or inconvienient.

The one thing I seem to discount a lot on the amps is all the 3rd party integrations like Pandora, Spotify, etc. I have SONOS zones everywhere in my house and I use this for all my streaming music. I know that there are apps coming out that allow you to set custom EQ's but the amp has to support the app.

So many choices!!


----------



## gnolivos

Wrong thread again. Stay on topic please.


----------



## k3nnis

morellihugo said:


> I got the new roku premiere+, the first two days I wasn't able to have HDR on Netflix, only on Amazon. But yesterday night Netflix started showing HDR content... Maybe the roku have some update overnight, or maybe I'm having issues with my internet conection... I'm using audioquest pearl HDMI cables.




Is the Epson reporting 4K HDR 10bit with Netflix? And is it 24p?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## morellihugo

k3nnis said:


> Is the Epson reporting 4K HDR 10bit with Netflix? And is it 24p?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi, my 5040 is reporting 4K 8 Bit HDR 2 4:2:0 BT2020, 60hz


----------



## wbcollegekid

tklein2 said:


> OK, as I commented earlier today, I love the picture on my 5040, especially when streaming 4K from my Amazon FireTV box. However, I wanted to take advantage of HDR, which is at least half of the benefit of 4K. So, I bought a Roku Ultimate this evening and connected it. I can not find a single title in 4k let alone HDR on the Netflix app! From the Amazon app I found plenty, but the ones that worked fine from my FireTV do NOT work on the Roku... if I get anything, it starts in 4K then I see nothing but a purple screen and maybe hear the sound track. When I look at the projector picture info, it says 4K with 709 color space. What is going on? I did get only a couple to play, but most would not. Is it my HDMI cable? Is it because the Roku player is trying to put out 4K at 60 frames per second for the newer content and the 5040 can not handle it? Please let me know, as I will take this thing back and buy the JVC in a heart beat :-( Thanks.





morellihugo said:


> I got the new roku premiere+, the first two days I wasn't able to have HDR on Netflix, only on Amazon. But yesterday night Netflix started showing HDR content... Maybe the roku have some update overnight, or maybe I'm having issues with my internet conection... I'm using audioquest pearl HDMI cables.


I bought the Roku Ultra yesterday and it is doing HDR. Remember not all shows are HDR. It will say so if it is. It appears that those shows are 60fps. For some reason I believe the netflix app is then disabling the 4K (reducing to 1080P) in order to display HDR. The color is 8 bit which does produce banding unfortunately. The picture is still very nice and obviously in HDR. 

Amazon app has the shows at 24fps at 4K with HDR, but with 8 bit as did Netflix. Both have BT. 2020, which can't be reproduced by our projector.

Lastly, I had to have the Roku connected directly to my projector and not through my AVR to get HDR out of Netflix and amazon. I don't have to do this to with my Phillips UHD player to get HDR with UHD bluray.


----------



## rjguk

wbcollegekid said:


> Lastly, I had to have the Roku connected directly to my projector and not through my AVR to get HDR out of Netflix and amazon. I don't have to do this to with my Phillips UHD player to get HDR with UHD bluray.


If you haven't already done it then you could try changing the 4K mode on the Yamaha to mode 1 rather than the default 2.

4_K Mode: Select the format of signals input/output at the unit when HDMI 4K (60 Hz/50Hz) compatible TV and playback device are connected to the unit. 

MODE 1: Inputs/outputs 4K (60 Hz/50 Hz) signals in 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 format. (4:2:0 format only for VIDEO AUX [HDMI IN] jack) 

When "MODE 1" is selected, use a high-speed HDMI cable that supports 18 Gbps

Depending on the connected devices or HDMI cables, videos may not be displayed correctly. 
In this case, select "MODE 2". 

MODE 2 Inputs/outputs 4K (60 Hz/50 Hz) signals in 4:2:0 format 
_


----------



## wbcollegekid

rjguk said:


> If you haven't already done it then you could try changing the 4K mode on the Yamaha to mode 1 rather than the default 2.
> 
> 4_K Mode: Select the format of signals input/output at the unit when HDMI 4K (60 Hz/50Hz) compatible TV and playback device are connected to the unit.
> 
> MODE 1: Inputs/outputs 4K (60 Hz/50 Hz) signals in 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 format. (4:2:0 format only for VIDEO AUX [HDMI IN] jack)
> 
> When "MODE 1" is selected, use a high-speed HDMI cable that supports 18 Gbps
> 
> Depending on the connected devices or HDMI cables, videos may not be displayed correctly.
> In this case, select "MODE 2".
> 
> MODE 2 Inputs/outputs 4K (60 Hz/50 Hz) signals in 4:2:0 format
> _


I have Mode 1 selected. Like I said, my Phillips UHD bluray player is working correctly with UHD bluray while connected to my AVR. Neflix app with Phillips still does not work regardless.


----------



## tklein2

*I Need Answers (XBOX One S & Firmware)*

I know there are issues with the XBOX One S and our projector. Can someone list them please. Can you currently stream Netflix and Amazon 4K content today or is everyone waiting for a fix from MS or Epson or both?

I've read where some people outside the US are updating their firmware on their equivalent Epson projectors? I looked on Epson's website and found nothing.

Thanks!


----------



## Kelvin1000

gnolivos said:


> Wrong thread again. Stay on topic please.



How's it going with your 24p issue research?

I have heard some similar issues from the JVC camp and I am wondering if it has something to don with the pixel-shift processing of these fauxK breed of projectors...


----------



## ndabunka

QuantumCosmos said:


> Hi. Does anyone have a suggestion for this issue? I was hoping to get "RGB" color format and "full" output
> dynamic range. Is there a recommended display settings for Nvdia GTX cards for this projector, including what's refersh rate I should set it too?
> Thanks


24 or 30fps, 12-bit & 4:4:4 should work just fine


----------



## QuantumCosmos

ndabunka said:


> 24 or 30fps, 12-bit & 4:4:4 should work just fine


thanks!


----------



## ndabunka

filter_sweep said:


> The following is a copy / paste from the Projector Reviews review of the pre-production 6040:
> 
> "One important note: CFI does not work when pixel shifting is engaged, so there is a bit of an additional trade-off to consider – stick to standard 1080p/1080i when using it, or go for the extra detail using pixel shifting on 1080 or 4K content."
> 
> I now remember having read this when it was first published, which is why I suppose I never expected 4k enhancement and FI to work at the same time, regardless of content. You may want to double check to see if it really is working for you. If I have FI on and then I turn on 4k enhancement, it doesn't tell me FI is turned off until I go back into the menu and see it greyed out.


I can confirm that the FI option IS AVAILABLE while running 4k enhancement AS LONG AS the frame rate is set to the 24fps that is used by BluRay DVDs. The only time FI is not available (as described above) is when one is running the signalling at the higher 60Hz frame rates. In those cases, FI is greyed out as described in the review quoted above.


----------



## gnolivos

Kelvin1000 said:


> How's it going with your 24p issue research?
> 
> I have heard some similar issues from the JVC camp and I am wondering if it has something to don with the pixel-shift processing of these fauxK breed of projectors...




I'm still researching and testing. I am also very confused, and here is why: I tested some of the scenes and movies that more clearly show the 'issue', but on my living room HDTV (which I never ever use), using a different bluray player etc. Well, I see more of the same issues there. 

Where I do NOT see the issue is on my old projector Sanyo Z2000. Begs the question, perhaps this is normal motion for 24p, but my old projector was somehow smoothing it out? It's an old model with no Frame Interpolation, so that's pure speculation on my part. 

I don't remember being troubled by 24p content on my 2 other older projectors, but then again those were used to play DVDs back in the day, and I'm not sure that's even a fair comparison in terms of frame rate, etc. I've had both DLP and LCD.


----------



## markrubin

move on please

posts deleted


----------



## Mike Garrett

flint350 said:


> I too was unaware the 5040 did not (itself) support aspect ratio, especially since there is a dedicated button on the remote. It's no biggie for me, as both my blu ray player and Denon AVR will do this and I can still use my anamorphic lens.


It will be a biggie, if trying to watch 4K BD, since I doubt your AVR can do vertical stretch of 4K content. I know that your BD player can't.


----------



## Viche

rupedogg24 said:


> Looks like it's an issue with the Netflix app. Here is Man In The High Castle running in UHD HDR on the Amazon App.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


You sure those stats are correct? It shows BT.2020 color and 8-bit color, and yet according to wikipedia:
Rec. 2020 defines a bit depth of either 10-bits per sample or 12-bits per sample


----------



## Mike Garrett

cheesenbizkitz said:


> Well, it seems as though the customer support for Epson in Australia isn't as good as it is in the US.
> 
> I had explained to them that I was having the issue of the annoying buzzing/whirring noise when 4K enhancement is on and that other people have got replacements that don't make the noise, so the noise isn't normal, and asked if I could get a replacement. They came back to me asking for links to where people were saying they got replacements and I sent them a few links to comments on this thread.
> 
> Now they've finally come back to me with this:
> 
> 
> 
> So apparently they've run some tests, and without any access to my projector, have said that the noise coming from it is within specification. To be fair, the noise is probably within the dB rating, but it's a very annoying noise that makes me want to just use 1080p content if I'm not going to be turning the volume up loud enough to drown it out.
> 
> I've considered just keeping it and dealing with the noise, but I've now had a few people comment on how loud the projector is, and that's even worse a feeling than having to put up with the noise myself. So I'm now going to attempt to return it to the store I bought it from and see how that goes. It does mean I'll be projectorless for a while if they do agree to replace it, but from what I've heard it is worth getting a replacement that doesn't have the noise.


I don't think any of the 5040's are noiseless when 4K enhancement is on. How loud the noise is and at what pitch it is may vary, so that some people can't hear it. I think that is why you are getting some people reporting that they do not hear anything and yet others report hearing a noise. And then there are the few that have a projector that makes a lot of noise. Those are the ones that should be exchanged. When you call them and say yours makes noise and you want a silent one, then they can't accommodate you.


----------



## rupedogg24

Viche said:


> You sure those stats are correct? It shows BT.2020 color and 8-but color, and yet according to wikipedia:
> Rec. 2020 defines a bit depth of either 10-bits per sample or 12-bits per sample


I have no way of really Testing that to be honest. That information is coming straight from the epson itself. So i'm assuming that it's true. 


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

morellihugo said:


> Hi, my 5040 is reporting 4K 8 Bit HDR 2 4:2:0 BT2020, 60hz




Ok thanks but I thought HDR needs to be 10bit to display properly?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

Isn't HDR on 8 bit like a Ferrari in a 25 mph zone?


----------



## above1

Epson authorized dealer? Out of curiosity, what do we get with an authorized dealer that is lost by buying the projector from a non-authorized dealer?


Looking at the warranty, it doesn't state it has to be purchased from an authorized dealer or warranty is void. So what is the value add?


Thanks,


----------



## eternal camper

Well, hello to eveyone out there who has purchased a new 5040/6040

I have had an Epson 6010 for at least 4 years and it just stopped working this past May. I thought it was a bulb but was ery busy throughout the summer and just did not get around to watching any movies. 

Whwn the summer was over, I called my installer and when he came over, he knew right away, as the bulb light was not flashing, that my projector was just not working. he suggested that I not even send it in for repair, but wait until after CEDIA to see what will be presented.

I waited, but decided to purchased a new 65" Sony 940D, put it in front of my 124" 2.35:1 screen, and watch movies until something came along.

The Epson 6040 came along, I purchased it, and had it installed yesterday, while moving my Sony upstairs.

My wife & I sat down in front of our new Epson, and my wife, whom we all know did not want me to get another PJ as she said many times, "Why spend the money. just keep the new Sony here". 

I live in Canada, In Toronto, so the only UHD signal that I have is either from my Rogers' 4K box and that was a disappointment, so I put in 2 4K movies on my Philips Ultra BD player, Life of Pi & DeadPool.

The picture was really not good, not sharp, terrible colour, and very, very disappointing! She walked out of our HT room, and I was just left with my mouth wide open!

This was the first Epson install for this company and they did say that their tech has to come to tweak the PJ, but I am now at a loss.

I am using a Marantz 8802 Pre/Pro with 12 channels of sound, 3 front Golden Ear, 2 side Golden Ear, and 2 rear Golden Ear, with 4 ceiling speakers + one more up front, in the ceiling, to give me a second centre-channel, as I just never hear the dialogue (the installers just installed this second centre-channel as I had an extra channel not being used so I decided to put it in.

I am using 2 amps for these 12 channels, a 5-channel Classé, and a 7-channel Emotiva (XPA-7)

My sound is awesome BUT what can I do to get a better lookng picture?

I am looking for help as to how to set-up my new 6040 so that the pic is clean, clear, and looking good. 

P.S.
My screen is about 18' from the projector and I do have a Schneider anamorphic lens in front of the projector's lens to fill my 2.35:1 screen. I had this lens with my 6010 projector and was told the only way to get my PJ to fill the screen while not losing any resolution was to purchase this lens.

Please help my smile again, and for my wife to be happy!

Stephen


----------



## Viche

So here's my latest crack at trying to sum up compatibility between the Epsons and various devices. This isn't perfect. Please post corrections with supporting pictures or documentation. If we can get this close to correct, maybe it can be stickied somewhere.

Source for some of this info: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/

* Baseline info:*• The HDMI chipset within the Epson has a bandwidth limitation of 10 Gbps
• There are limitations to the signal that the Epson can accept due to this chipset
• 4k Blu-rays are encoded as 4k24 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit Rec709 (non HDR) or 10-bit Rec2020 (HDR10) neither of which are supported by the HDMI 2.0 specification
• Some form of signal conversion must occur in order for any device using HDMI 2.0 to accept a 4K Blu-ray signal
• The signal transmitted by the device must fall within the Epson’s 10Gbs HDMI chipset limitation for it to be displayed on the projector​









*Samsung K8500 4K Blu-ray Player & Xbox One S*• Both convert Blu-rays to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec709 which Epson can support
• HDR movies with Rec2020 color are reduced to Rec709, so HDR is stripped
• The resulting image for HDR movies generally appears too dark on the Epson​*Phillips, Panasonic, Oppo (hopefully)*• Each convert the signal to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec 709 which the Epson supports
• HDR movies with Rec 2020 color are converted to 4k24 / 4:2:2 / 12-bit Rec2020 which the Epson supports
• The resulting image generally appears appropriate other than the Epson not having enough lumens to display HDR as intended​*Fury & Oppo (hopefully)*• Both send an Epson compatible signal, but have the ability to strip HDR, while leaving the expanded Rec2020 color intact for those who feel the Epson is too dark for HDR​*Roku Ultra (4K)*• Sends 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec709 which is supported by Epson
• HDR movies with Rec2020 color are reduced to Rec709, so HDR is stripped (despite the screen showing 8-bit HDR BT2020, HDR BT2020 requires at least 10-bit color – is Rec2020 color really being preserved here? )​*Amazon Fire Stick*• HDR signal is downgraded to 4k / Rec709​*YouTube*• YouTube 4k videos are natively up to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit
• If your player can send that native signal, the Epson can handle it
• Players that send the signal properly include: ????​*Netflix*• Netflix’s 4k videos are natively ?????
• If your player can send that native signal, the Epson can handle it
• Players that send the signal properly include: ????​*Gaming (PCs, 4k games on PS4 Pro & Xbox Scorpio)*• The Epson’s HDMI chipset (10 GBPS limitation) will only accept 4k60 at 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
• It is unknown whether these gaming devices will send 4k signals in this format. If for example they send the signal as 4k60 / 4:4:4 / 10-bit, the signal will fail or be downgraded to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit color 
• Either way, 4:4:4 will get downgraded to 4:2:0 and/or color will be downgraded to 8-bit (non-HDR) assuming the source was HDR to begin with​*Future video devices:*• High Frame Rate (HFR) 4k Blu-ray will display with nothing higher than 8-bit color on the Epson
• If a future format support 4:4:4, color can be no higher than 8-bit for it to work on the Epson
• Dolby Vision’s goal is to be 12-bit color. This should work with the Epson, assuming the player can send the signal as 4:2:2​


----------



## chiltonj

Good stuff viche! 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Bachiano

Viche said:


> So here's my latest crack at trying to sum up compatibility between the Epsons and various devices. This isn't perfect. Please post corrections with supporting pictures or documentation. If we can get this close to correct, maybe it can be stickied somewhere.


Great stuff.
But what a mess


----------



## k3nnis

Can't believe Epson didn't just use the higher bandwidth chipset and no headaches 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sgranger45

gnolivos said:


> Wrong thread again. Stay on topic please.


Isn't picking the right receiver for the 5040UB correct for the 5040 thread??


----------



## bobby45512

how big is the 5040 compared to the hw45es? I'm finding the sony to be too long in length and not enough adjustment with zoom for the size of my bedroom.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Viche said:


> *Roku 4k*
> • Sends 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec709 which is supported by Epson
> • HDR movies with Rec2020 color are reduced to Rec709, so HDR is stripped (despite the screen showing 8-bit HDR BT2020, HDR BT2020 requires at least 10-bit color – is Rec2020 color really being preserved here? )​


Which Roku? The new line that just came out? Roku has so many models including newly released ones I find all of this very confusing.


----------



## Viche

WynsWrld98 said:


> Which Roku? The new line that just came out? Roku has so many models including newly released ones I find all of this very confusing.


Based on user reports on this thread, Roku Ultra, the latest 4K player. I'm open to evidence to the contrary though.


----------



## c.kingsley

Viche said:


> Based on user reports on this thread, Roku Ultra, the latest 4K player. I'm open to evidence to the contrary though.


Correction to your post above, the Phillips player outputs UHD at 4k 24Hz 4:2:2 12bit.


----------



## c.kingsley

bobby45512 said:


> how big is the 5040 compared to the hw45es? I'm finding the sony to be too long in length and not enough adjustment with zoom for the size of my bedroom.


The dimensions are 7.6H x 20.5W x 17.7D. It is a big projector no question. I think I'm at 12'5" lens to screen and I'm shooting 126" diagonal at max zoom.


----------



## Viche

c.kingsley said:


> Correction to your post above, the Phillips player outputs UHD at 4k 24Hz 4:2:2 12bit.


So for non HDR signals as well? Do you have a screen shot or pic that shoes that? Not doubting you, just think I should start including links to screen shots that support the info.


----------



## aaranddeeman

c.kingsley said:


> Correction to your post above, the Phillips player outputs UHD at 4k 24Hz 4:2:2 12bit.


But that's what he said..


----------



## Natrix1973

So a couple quick questions I hope someone can help out with. I am looking at getting this projector to replace a W1080ST in my living room. It is mostly light controlled and I have a 130" 16x9 DIY white over silver spandex screen. I have the Phillips UHD player, Shield TV, PC and PS4 for main sources of movies/streaming/video game options.

I have a ceiling fan about 12.5 feet from the screen which looks like would be about where it would need to be mounted and also where the main seating is. I would have to place the projector about 17 ft back from the screen to clear the fan blades. 

Is that distance going to be an issue with filling the screen size or brightness for my screen? Is anyone projecting onto a spandex screen? Will the spandex cause issues with the image quality? 

Hoping to pull the trigger tomorrow if anyone can help out. Thanks for any answers or advice!


----------



## Dws6

above1 said:


> Epson authorized dealer? Out of curiosity, what do we get with an authorized dealer that is lost by buying the projector from a non-authorized dealer?
> 
> 
> Looking at the warranty, it doesn't state it has to be purchased from an authorized dealer or warranty is void. So what is the value add?
> 
> 
> Thanks,



Most manufactures will not warrant a product sold outside a dealer network. This goes outside the electronics realm too just FYI. It is usually outlined in the warranty document though so if it's deleted you may have a fighting chance down the road if you need a warranty claim. I would say it's a risk though. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dws6

bobby45512 said:


> how big is the 5040 compared to the hw45es? I'm finding the sony to be too long in length and not enough adjustment with zoom for the size of my bedroom.



It's not really the size of the projector you need to worry about. You need to verify distance by calculating it using the projectors throw ratio. Every manufacture has something a bit different and these Epson are a bit wider then some of the others I compared which means more flexibility. One of the projector sites has a calculator you can use by plugging in the model number and it will spit out the distances based on screen size, or screen sizes based on distance. I think it was projectorcentral can't remember but you can google it I'm sure. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## FSOL12

eternal camper said:


> Well, hello to eveyone out there who has purchased a new 5040/6040
> 
> I have had an Epson 6010 for at least 4 years and it just stopped working this past May. I thought it was a bulb but was ery busy throughout the summer and just did not get around to watching any movies.
> 
> Whwn the summer was over, I called my installer and when he came over, he knew right away, as the bulb light was not flashing, that my projector was just not working. he suggested that I not even send it in for repair, but wait until after CEDIA to see what will be presented.
> 
> I waited, but decided to purchased a new 65" Sony 940D, put it in front of my 124" 2.35:1 screen, and watch movies until something came along.
> 
> The Epson 6040 came along, I purchased it, and had it installed yesterday, while moving my Sony upstairs.
> 
> My wife & I sat down in front of our new Epson, and my wife, whom we all know did not want me to get another PJ as she said many times, "Why spend the money. just keep the new Sony here".
> 
> I live in Canada, In Toronto, so the only UHD signal that I have is either from my Rogers' 4K box and that was a disappointment, so I put in 2 4K movies on my Philips Ultra BD player, Life of Pi & DeadPool.
> 
> The picture was really not good, not sharp, terrible colour, and very, very disappointing! She walked out of our HT room, and I was just left with my mouth wide open!
> 
> This was the first Epson install for this company and they did say that their tech has to come to tweak the PJ, but I am now at a loss.
> 
> I am using a Marantz 8802 Pre/Pro with 12 channels of sound, 3 front Golden Ear, 2 side Golden Ear, and 2 rear Golden Ear, with 4 ceiling speakers + one more up front, in the ceiling, to give me a second centre-channel, as I just never hear the dialogue (the installers just installed this second centre-channel as I had an extra channel not being used so I decided to put it in.
> 
> I am using 2 amps for these 12 channels, a 5-channel Classé, and a 7-channel Emotiva (XPA-7)
> 
> My sound is awesome BUT what can I do to get a better lookng picture?
> 
> I am looking for help as to how to set-up my new 6040 so that the pic is clean, clear, and looking good.
> 
> P.S.
> My screen is about 18' from the projector and I do have a Schneider anamorphic lens in front of the projector's lens to fill my 2.35:1 screen. I had this lens with my 6010 projector and was told the only way to get my PJ to fill the screen while not losing any resolution was to purchase this lens.
> 
> Please help my smile again, and for my wife to be happy!
> 
> Stephen


I replaced a week ago, my old 5010 to EH-TW9300(5040). I knew that the picture will be better, but even did not expect that much better. Much sharper (despite the fact that I had to remove the old Darbee), the color is great (which I lacked in 5010),Brightness is better than in 5010 where it always work on Highlamp mode for 120"screen, NormalLamp mode on 5040 shines same in Cinema mode.
I do not play games on 5010 because everything looked sucks, on 5040 I turn on Gears of war4 and was blown away by the clarity and juiciness of picture compared to 5010. Today I run to buy receiver Yamaha 779 (replace oldman the Denon 2808) to properly commutate all devices in the 4k.
I can not understand why you have such a situation with a new projector, but I'm almost nothing has been calibrate and get this result out of the box. Only I changed a few settings, but still does not change the color settings, gamma and other deeper settings.
I hope you will understand what is a problem, and you can enjoy to the full from this very nice Epson


----------



## chiltonj

http://www.wrcbtv.com/story/3337965...ew-home-entertainment-projector-at-cedia-2016

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## wbcollegekid

Viche said:


> So for non HDR signals as well? Do you have a screen shot or pic that shoes that? Not doubting you, just think I should start including links to screen shots that support the info.


I believe the 12 bit is being downconverted to 10 bit and dithered out to 12 bit, per my conversation with Epson engineers. I do believe the HDR is very noticeable with Bright Cinema mode in a dark room. I really enjoyed watching the Revenant with HDR on. Unfortunately we lose the P3 color space with Bright Cinema.

I would like remind everyone that when watching non-UHD sources, you need to make sure you do not use the HDR preset.


----------



## MaximTre

I bought the wireless version 2 days ago.
Based on a german site teardown
cine4home.de/forums/topic/die-inneren-werte-des-epson-eh-tw9300-wir-sezieren-im-live-ticker/page/11/
HDMI (cable) is handled by the SIL9679 chip (limited band)
HDMI (wireless) in handled by the SIL9777 on both end (full band)

Tested both wireless and cable connections with both One S and K8500, some random BD UHDs
Cable -> no hdr
Wireless -> hdr is fine (4:2:2, 24hz, 12bit)

No hdr netflix on One S (both cable and wireless)

No hdr gaming on xbox one s (I think it's a 4k/60hz/8bit/4:4:4 signal) (both cable and wireless)
Hdr gaming is fine on a ps4 (Deus Ex tested. 1080p with hdr) (both cable and wireless, not 100% sure on this one, not sure if i tested the cable connection)


----------



## Viche

wbcollegekid said:


> I believe the 12 bit is being downconverted to 10 bit and dithered out to 12 bit, per my conversation with Epson engineers. I do believe the HDR is very noticeable with Bright Cinema mode in a dark room. I really enjoyed watching the Revenant with HDR on. Unfortunately we lose the P3 color space with Bright Cinema.
> 
> I would like remind everyone that when watching non-UHD sources, you need to make sure you do not use the HDR preset.


That's what I have listed for HDR movies (second bullet). Not sure I want to get into the 12 to 10 to 12 but conversion as I don't believe HDR Blu-rays are native 12 bit at this point. Are we on the same page?

Phillips, Panasonic, Oppo (hopefully)
· Each convert the signal to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec 709 which the Epson supports
· HDR movies with Rec 2020 color are converted to 4k24 / 4:2:2 / 12-bit Rec2020 which the Epson supports


----------



## Viche

MaximTre said:


> I bought the wireless version 2 days ago.
> Based on a german site teardown
> cine4home.de/forums/topic/die-inneren-werte-des-epson-eh-tw9300-wir-sezieren-im-live-ticker/page/11/
> HDMI (cable) is handled by the SIL9679 chip (limited band)
> HDMI (wireless) in handled by the SIL9777 on both end (full band)
> 
> Tested both wireless and cable connections with both One S and K8500, some random BD UHDs
> Cable -> no hdr
> Wireless -> hdr is fine (4:2:2, 24hz, 12bit)
> 
> No hdr netflix on One S (both cable and wireless)
> 
> No hdr gaming on xbox one s (I think it's a 4k/60hz/8bit/4:4:4 signal) (both cable and wireless)
> Hdr gaming is fine on a ps4 (Deus Ex tested. 1080p with hdr) (both cable and wireless, not 100% sure on this one, not sure if i tested the cable connection)


If you can provide a screenshot or someone else can confirm the wireless support of HDR (4:2:2, 24hz, 12bit), I'll add that to the compatibility list.


----------



## MaximTre

Viche said:


> If you can provide a screenshot or someone else can confirm the wireless support of HDR (4:2:2, 24hz, 12bit), I'll add that to the compatibility list.


Ok, no problem, I'll post when I'm back home


----------



## MaximTre

Review with the sammy wireless screenshot

https://translate.google.fr/transla...00_w/epson_eh_tw_9300_7300_9300w-livetest.htm


----------



## hatlesschimp

Whats the best settings for PC Gaming? I used to just select game mode on one of my old projectors. Just about to give Battlefield 1 a crack  Cheers


----------



## c.kingsley

wbcollegekid said:


> I would like remind everyone that when watching non-UHD sources, you need to make sure you do not use the HDR preset.


Quoting for truth. You will make this mistake at least once.


----------



## wbcollegekid

Viche said:


> So here's my latest crack at trying to sum up compatibility between the Epsons and various devices. This isn't perfect. Please post corrections with supporting pictures or documentation. If we can get this close to correct, maybe it can be stickied somewhere.
> 
> Source for some of this info: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/
> 
> * Baseline info:*• The HDMI chipset within the Epson has a bandwidth limitation of 10 Gbps
> • There are limitations to the signal that the Epson can accept due to this chipset
> • 4k Blu-rays are encoded as 4k24 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit Rec709 (non HDR) or 10-bit Rec2020 (HDR10) neither of which are supported by the HDMI 2.0 specification
> • Some form of signal conversion must occur in order for any device using HDMI 2.0 to accept a 4K Blu-ray signal
> • The signal transmitted by the device must fall within the Epson’s 10Gbs HDMI chipset limitation for it to be displayed on the projector​
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Samsung K8500 4K Blu-ray Player & Xbox One S*• Both convert Blu-rays to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec709 which Epson can support
> • HDR movies with Rec2020 color are reduced to Rec709, so HDR is stripped
> • The resulting image for HDR movies generally appears too dark on the Epson​*Phillips, Panasonic, Oppo (hopefully)*• Each convert the signal to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec 709 which the Epson supports
> • HDR movies with Rec 2020 color are converted to 4k24 / 4:2:2 / 12-bit Rec2020 which the Epson supports
> • The resulting image generally appears appropriate other than the Epson not having enough lumens to display HDR as intended​*Fury & Oppo (hopefully)*• Both send an Epson compatible signal, but have the ability to strip HDR, while leaving the expanded Rec2020 color intact for those who feel the Epson is too dark for HDR​*Roku Ultra (4K)*• Sends 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec709 which is supported by Epson
> • HDR movies with Rec2020 color are reduced to Rec709, so HDR is stripped (despite the screen showing 8-bit HDR BT2020, HDR BT2020 requires at least 10-bit color – is Rec2020 color really being preserved here? )​*Amazon Fire Stick*• HDR signal is downgraded to 4k / Rec709​*YouTube*• YouTube 4k videos are natively up to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit
> • If your player can send that native signal, the Epson can handle it
> • Players that send the signal properly include: ????​*Netflix*• Netflix’s 4k videos are natively ?????
> • If your player can send that native signal, the Epson can handle it
> • Players that send the signal properly include: ????​*Gaming (PCs, 4k games on PS4 Pro & Xbox Scorpio)*• The Epson’s HDMI chipset (10 GBPS limitation) will only accept 4k60 at 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
> • It is unknown whether these gaming devices will send 4k signals in this format. If for example they send the signal as 4k60 / 4:4:4 / 10-bit, the signal will fail or be downgraded to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
> • Either way, 4:4:4 will get downgraded to 4:2:0 and/or color will be downgraded to 8-bit (non-HDR) assuming the source was HDR to begin with​*Future video devices:*• High Frame Rate (HFR) 4k Blu-ray will display with nothing higher than 8-bit color on the Epson
> • If a future format support 4:4:4, color can be no higher than 8-bit for it to work on the Epson
> • Dolby Vision’s goal is to be 12-bit color. This should work with the Epson, assuming the player can send the signal as 4:2:2​


Roku Ultra feels like it is properly displaying HDR via Netflix and Amazon video. There is obvious banding though.


----------



## ndabunka

Mike Garrett said:


> I don't think any of the 5040's are noiseless when 4K enhancement is on. How loud the noise is and at what pitch it is may vary, so that some people can't hear it. I think that is why you are getting some people reporting that they do not hear anything and yet others report hearing a noise. And then there are the few that have a projector that makes a lot of noise. Those are the ones that should be exchanged. When you call them and say yours makes noise and you want a silent one, then they can't accommodate you.


Not certain about this as there does not appear to be any differentition in sound levels engaged or disengaged in my projector. Neither myself, my wife, children or the pets LOL have been able to discern any difference in a blind sound test.

I think the only way we could verify this postulation would be for someone to run some type of sound analysis software in a room with the projector running the different modes with graphs plotted to isolate the anamoly.

Has anyone experiencing this issue run any sound analysis software to capture it? Could we use REW "off label" as such a tool... for example?


----------



## tklein2

Thanks Viche and the others that have clarified... very informative!!


----------



## Mike Garrett

ndabunka said:


> Not certain about this as I can't hear mine nor can my wife, children or the pets. I think the only way we could verify this postulation would be for someone to run some type of sound analysis software in a room with the projector running the different modes with graphs plotted to isolate the anamoly.
> 
> Has anyone experiencing this issue run any sound analysis software to capture it? Could we use REW "off label" as such a tool... for example?


Maybe your noise happens to be on the quiet side and is masked by the fan noise. Cine4home, which sees many of these units, reported that all of them that he has seen, make some noise. That has also been my experience. Sounds like you may have a golden sample, noise wise.


----------



## firefox20000

From Epson FAQ:


----------



## ndabunka

Mike Garrett said:


> Maybe your noise happens to be on the quiet side and is masked by the fan noise. Cine4home, which sees many of these units, reported that all of them that he has seen, make some noise. That has also been my experience. Sounds like you may have a golden sample, noise wise.


I hope so but it could also be a genetic shortcoming... except the pets of course  REW is on my "hit list" of actions once I get my Elite Screen AUHD installed so if anyone has guidance on how to use it to capture the noise differences, I would be happy to implement those steps and report back my findings.


----------



## ndabunka

QuantumCosmos said:


> Hi. Does anyone have a suggestion for this issue? I was hoping to get "RGB" color format and "full" output dynamic range. Is there a recommended display settings for Nvdia GTX cards for this projector, including what's refersh rate I should set it too?
> Thanks





ndabunka said:


> 24 or 30fps, 12-bit & 4:4:4 should work just fine





QuantumCosmos said:


> thanks!


Minor clarification/correction.
24/30p 12-bit 4:4:4 is ONLY supported by the wireless version of this projector (5040ube) and even then (based on tlhe manual), that signal is converted down (in the projector) to 10-bit 4:2:2 so my recommendation SHOULD have been...

Set your game card's output to ...
24/30 10-bit 4:2:2

 me falling on my sword


----------



## cnorth12

I own the 5040UB and love it. I am need of a new 100" - 106" 16:9 motorized projection screen. Would like a tab-tensioned screen this time around as my old one is curled on the sides. It's in a family multi room setting with tan tile floors walls and white ceiling. I have decent control over ambient light but in no way total light control. I like to watch during the day sometimes but mainly at night. I know this is not a screen forum, but I'm not sure where to find the correct info on here for my particular projector? I currently have a matt white with 1.1 gain but not sure if a grey screen or an ambient light rejecting screen is needed? Trying to stay under a $1000. Projector is ceiling mounted about 13.6ft away from screen and about 12ft viewing distance. I apologize for the off topic question in regards to the 5040UB thread, so if anybody could just send a link with any info on my question or have any input would be great. Thanks.


----------



## gnolivos

Go to screens forum they will be happy to help you and have way better input than here.


----------



## ndabunka

cnorth12 said:


> I own the 5040UB and love it. I am need of a new 100" - 106" 16:9 motorized projection screen. Would like a tab-tensioned screen this time around as my old one is curled on the sides. It's in a family multi room setting with tan tile floors walls and white ceiling. I have decent control over ambient light but in no way total light control. I like to watch during the day sometimes but mainly at night. I know this is not a screen forum, but I'm not sure where to find the correct info on here for my particular projector? I currently have a matt white with 1.1 gain but not sure if a grey screen or an ambient light rejecting screen is needed? Trying to stay under a $1000. Projector is ceiling mounted about 13.6ft away from screen and about 12ft viewing distance. I apologize for the off topic question in regards to the 5040UB thread, so if anybody could just send a link with any info on my question or have any input would be great. Thanks.


Screens forum is here...
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/


----------



## trainfan

Just bit the bullet and ordered my new Epson 5040 UBE to replace my Epson 5010e, Now the long wait for the fed-ex truck Monday


----------



## rjguk

ndabunka said:


> Not certain about this as there does not appear to be any differentition in sound levels engaged or disengaged in my projector. Neither myself, my wife, children or the pets LOL have been able to discern any difference in a blind sound test.
> 
> I think the only way we could verify this postulation would be for someone to run some type of sound analysis software in a room with the projector running the different modes with graphs plotted to isolate the anamoly.
> 
> Has anyone experiencing this issue run any sound analysis software to capture it? Could we use REW "off label" as such a tool... for example?


On my sample, using Amazon Fire HD 4K box, REW shows a distinct peak at 419.6Hz. Playing a 420Hz tone via a signal generator matches the perceived sound of the PJ in this mode.

The green line is with 4Ke off, the purple line is with it on.










The 4Ke line is about 30db above the equivalent line with 4Ke off, and very noticeable.
Not evident on 50Hz material.

419.6 is exactly 7x the input frame rate.


----------



## exm

trainfan said:


> Just bit the bullet and ordered my new Epson 5040 UBE to replace my Epson 5010e, Now the long wait for the fed-ex truck Monday


I received a great deal (I think) on the 6040UB which will replace my 3020. 3020 x 2 = 6040 

Can't wait.


----------



## k3nnis

Should we get the wireless version so that we can get 12 bit 4:2:2 24hz/30hz? 
Or don't bother and stick to wired?


----------



## Viche

wbcollegekid said:


> Roku Ultra feels like it is properly displaying HDR via Netflix and Amazon video. There is obvious banding though.


I'm going to assume that it's not actually displaying HDR, and that the banding you are seeing is the result of the down converstion from 10 to 8-bit color. HDR requires 10-bit color. As always. open to discussion.


----------



## ndabunka

rjguk said:


> On my sample, using Amazon Fire HD 4K box, REW shows a distinct peak at 419.6Hz. Playing a 420Hz tone via a signal generator matches the perceived sound of the PJ in this mode.
> 
> The green line is with 4Ke off, the purple line is with it on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 4Ke line is about 30db above the equivalent line with 4Ke off, and very noticeable.
> Not evident on 50Hz material.
> 
> 419.6 is exactly 7x the input frame rate.


Good content here. Is there a possiblity that the frequencies used in your area of the world may impact what you are observing? 

or perhaps connection-based factors? US household connections have a 3rd wire for ground but (if I recall correctly) some UK circuits are simply a 2-prong socket. Could the noise you happen to be hearing be related to the absent ground prong in your power stream?


----------



## c.kingsley

Viche said:


> I'm going to assume that it's not actually displaying HDR, and that the banding you are seeing is the result of the down converstion from 10 to 8-bit color. HDR requires 10-bit color. As always. open to discussion.


Speaking of banding, I tried fiddling with changing the HDR setting from Auto to HDR1 on a UHD movie (Oblivion). Although this results in a brighter picture, there is banding clearly evident on early scenes of the blue sky as Tom is entering his vehicle/plane. So, I recommend leaving this setting at Auto. An additional side effect of changing the setting is that you now have to continue manually intervening when switching between content sources, so other users in the home that are not as technically proficient will accidentally end up viewing blu rays in an HDR mode, which causes terribly distorted colors. Some reviews have pointed at changing this setting on UHD content but they must not have been viewing with a sharp eye, because the increased brightness comes at cost of introducing banding, which is distracting and not how the picture is intended to be viewed.


----------



## c.kingsley

ndabunka said:


> Good content here. Is there a possiblity that the frequencies used in your area of the world may impact what you are observing?
> 
> or perhaps connection-based factors? US household connections have a 3rd wire for ground but (if I recall correctly) some UK circuits are simply a 2-prong socket. Could the noise you happen to be hearing be related to the absent ground prong in your power stream?


I am in new residential construction. I do not hear any audible sound with eshift engaged, with or without the sound on, from the variety of listening positions I have attempted. A good portion of my time has been spent walking around the room fiddling with settings. If there was an audible tone, I would have heard it. I don't discount that some people are hearing something, but I disagree that every projector suffers from it. There are so many variables that could contribute to this noise that some people are hearing. Grounding issues or ground loops are possibilities.


----------



## frenzy987

Anyone have any idea how much the input lag is when using wireless HDMI transmission?


----------



## ndabunka

frenzy987 said:


> Anyone have any idea how much the input lag is when using wireless HDMI transmission?


What logic makes you think wireless would induce a delay?


----------



## frenzy987

ndabunka said:


> What logic makes you think wireless would induce a delay?


By it's nature, the encapsulation/decapsulation of data generally some extra latency, just curious if anyone has measured it.


----------



## Dws6

Just received my 6040. Now to get it installed and order a screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

Viche said:


> If you can provide a screenshot or someone else can confirm the wireless support of HDR (4:2:2, 24hz, 12bit), I'll add that to the compatibility list.


Here it is.



Not wireless related, I can confirm some annoying coil whine at _some _ 60hz modes and settings.
I have to do a proper test, but as far as I can rembember (I used a PC) 1080p/60hz with digital cinema mode (not the other modes) and 4k/60hz (all modes) are affected.


----------



## MaximTre

frenzy987 said:


> By it's nature, the encapsulation/decapsulation of data generally some extra latency, just curious if anyone has measured it.


AFAIK the wireless technology used by epson should add no delay.
The downside is the transmitter and the projector need to be visible to each other.


----------



## frenzy987

MaximTre said:


> AFAIK the wireless technology used by epson should add no delay.
> The downside is the transmitter and the projector need to be visible to each other.


Oh, so even an internal wall or a curtain, would interfere?


----------



## bobby45512

frenzy987 said:


> By it's nature, the encapsulation/decapsulation of data generally some extra latency, just curious if anyone has measured it.


From my understanding input lag and latency are not one in the same, there's some great articles on it as well as response time.


----------



## Dandlj

I don't want to start a JVC vs Epson war, however I'm interested in understanding the technical differences between the Epson 9300/5040 vs JVV 5000/RS400

I've read on here that various sources don't work or are limited on the Epson. Is it the same on the JVC specification wise?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## above1

Dws6 said:


> above1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Epson authorized dealer? Out of curiosity, what do we get with an authorized dealer that is lost by buying the projector from a non-authorized dealer?
> 
> 
> Looking at the warranty, it doesn't state it has to be purchased from an authorized dealer or warranty is void. So what is the value add?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most manufactures will not warrant a product sold outside a dealer network. This goes outside the electronics realm too just FYI. It is usually outlined in the warranty document though so if it's deleted you may have a fighting chance down the road if you need a warranty claim. I would say it's a risk though.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll get it from an authorized dealer. 

Larry


----------



## frenzy987

bobby45512 said:


> From my understanding input lag and latency are not one in the same, there's some great articles on it as well as response time.


Thanks, I understand latency (the time it takes data to travel from one place to another) is different from input lag (the time the effect of say pressing a button on a controller takes to register on the screen), however latency does add to the overall amount of input lag. That said, it's a moot point as it sounds like the wireless transmission in the Epson doesn't have an effect on it . It's kind of weird that over wireless there seems to be more functionality in terms of supported video formats than over a wired connection, seems like a slight mis-step from Epson. Based on what I have read here it seems if you can do it (line of sight etc) wireless is the way to go.


----------



## bobby45512

frenzy987 said:


> Thanks, I understand latency (the time it takes data to travel from one place to another) is different from input lag (the time the effect of say pressing a button on a controller takes to register on the screen), however latency does add to the overall amount of input lag. That said, it's a moot point as it sounds like the wireless transmission in the Epson doesn't have an effect on it . It's kind of weird that over wireless there seems to be more functionality in terms of supported video formats than over a wired connection, seems like a slight mis-step from Epson. Based on what I have read here it seems if you can do it (line of sight etc) wireless is the way to go.


if it's the same as the 5030ube it should be using the 60ghz frequency which has come a long way in a short time and yes very odd how the wireless seems to be more capable to the wired counterpart.


----------



## rjguk

ndabunka said:


> Good content here. Is there a possiblity that the frequencies used in your area of the world may impact what you are observing?
> 
> or perhaps connection-based factors? US household connections have a 3rd wire for ground but (if I recall correctly) some UK circuits are simply a 2-prong socket. Could the noise you happen to be hearing be related to the absent ground prong in your power stream?


The PJ is on a normal UK power socket (50Hz) so if there were any ground loop/hum issues I'd expect something at 50Hz or a multiple. Nothing like that, the peaks with 4Ke on are very precisely multiples of the exact input frequency.

For 50Hz input (Sky HD box, 1080i) there is indeed a smallish sharp peak with 4Ke on compared to off. It is at 1350Hz, which is 27x the input. However, I struggled to hear the difference. The 60Hz input has the main peak at 419.6Hz (7x) and smaller ones at 540Hz (9x) and 1378.6Hz (23x) but it is the 419.6Hz one which is particularly evident. Lots of odd but exact multiples there, you'd think they were trying to avoid resonances...

My guess is that whatever opto-mechanical arrangement is driving the 4K enhancement is bound to be operating on various multiples of the frame rate, and the 419.6Hz noise is simply the sound of some component of that operation. It does vary according to listening position, the wavelength is about 86cm so plenty of scope for interference effects with the reflected sound from the ceiling just above the PJ.

I'd still like confirmation or otherwise that a 60Hz or 59.94Hz input gives this noise for other users. In my case it is an Amazon Fire TV 4K box. It is also clear in my case that for 50Hz and 24Hz inputs, and with 24Hz UHD, there is no noticeable noise.

Edited to add: I've updated the firmware, and no noticeable difference in noise.


----------



## MaximTre

Just a quick question, is it safe for us europeans to update using the us firmware found here?
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/...=highlights&noteoid=289381&ref=aff_cj_3640326

I can't find any update on european websites.
Thanks you.


----------



## MaximTre

frenzy987 said:


> Oh, so even an internal wall or a curtain, would interfere?


A wall I'd say 100% yes (I can't interrupt the signal with my body), a curtain I don't really know, but I imagine a too thick cloth could be a problem.


----------



## frenzy987

MaximTre said:


> A wall I'd say 100% yes (I can't interrupt the signal with my body), a curtain I don't really know, but I imagine a too thick cloth could be a problem.


Thanks, I think I can achieve line of sight.


----------



## rjguk

MaximTre said:


> Just a quick question, is it safe for us europeans to update using the us firmware found here?
> http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/...=highlights&noteoid=289381&ref=aff_cj_3640326
> 
> I can't find any update on european websites.
> Thanks you.


Yes, perfectly safe - it is the same software as on the UK site. The only difference is that the US site gives you a .bin file, the UK site gives you a zip file containing the .bin and the instructions. Worked fine on my TW7300.


----------



## k3nnis

What did the new firmware fix or added?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rjguk

k3nnis said:


> What did the new firmware fix or added?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I couldn't find a single thing that seemed different, nor have I seen any other information about the content.


----------



## ndabunka

rjguk said:


> The PJ is on a normal UK power socket (50Hz) so if there were any ground loop/hum issues I'd expect something at 50Hz or a multiple. Nothing like that, the peaks with 4Ke on are very precisely multiples of the exact input frequency.
> 
> For 50Hz input (Sky HD box, 1080i) there is indeed a smallish sharp peak with 4Ke on compared to off. It is at 1350Hz, which is 27x the input. However, I struggled to hear the difference. The 60Hz input has the main peak at 419.6Hz (7x) and smaller ones at 540Hz (9x) and 1378.6Hz (23x) but it is the 419.6Hz one which is particularly evident. Lots of odd but exact multiples there, you'd think they were trying to avoid resonances...
> 
> My guess is that whatever opto-mechanical arrangement is driving the 4K enhancement is bound to be operating on various multiples of the frame rate, and the 419.6Hz noise is simply the sound of some component of that operation. It does vary according to listening position, the wavelength is about 86cm so plenty of scope for interference effects with the reflected sound from the ceiling just above the PJ.
> 
> I'd still like confirmation or otherwise that a 60Hz or 59.94Hz input gives this noise for other users. In my case it is an Amazon Fire TV 4K box. It is also clear in my case that for 50Hz and 24Hz inputs, and with 24Hz UHD, there is no noticeable noise.
> 
> Edited to add: I've updated the firmware, and no noticeable difference in noise.


The large majority of my viewing is BlueRay which is done at the 24Hz rate. It sounds like you are confirming that you have no noise at that rate which is in alignment with my and others observations. I have not noticed any noise in any of the limited 60Hz material I have watched so far but I may have to do more testing to be of any help here. Thanks for the details and I will reply back if I have anything further to contribute.


----------



## wbcollegekid

Viche said:


> I'm going to assume that it's not actually displaying HDR, and that the banding you are seeing is the result of the down converstion from 10 to 8-bit color. HDR requires 10-bit color. As always. open to discussion.


The way I read it is that HDR can be 8 bit, but then it wouldn't meet the UHD standard.


----------



## leo9000

*Projector powering off issue - any ideas would be much appreciated*

Last night while watching cable TV on my 5040UB, the projector suddenly powered off, as if I had hit the off button (I didn’t). This same thing had been happening with my previous Sony projector this past year. It started happening after I got the Harmony remote. At first I thought it was the remote, so I removed the projector from the activities and devices and used the projector remote to turn off and on. It still continued to happen randomly (once a week or so). Now that I got the 5040UB, I did not add it to the Harmony, but last night it just powered off the same as the Sony. The projector is plugged into a Monster Power Converter, the HDMI cable to the projector comes from the receiver. Any ideas on why this is happening? It’s too coincidental that both projectors would have shut off issues. Just not sure where to start troubleshooting the issue.


----------



## gnolivos

If I stand in front of the projector and mute all audio, I can clearly hear the whine. If I sit right below the projector, my main sitting position, I can hear absolutely nothing. Just saying, your position may have a lot to do with this.


----------



## exm

rjguk said:


> I couldn't find a single thing that seemed different, nor have I seen any other information about the content.


Probably bug fixes.


----------



## WestCDA

leo9000 said:


> Last night while watching cable TV on my 5040UB, the projector suddenly powered off, as if I had hit the off button (I didn’t). This same thing had been happening with my previous Sony projector this past year. It started happening after I got the Harmony remote. At first I thought it was the remote, so I removed the projector from the activities and devices and used the projector remote to turn off and on. It still continued to happen randomly (once a week or so). Now that I got the 5040UB, I did not add it to the Harmony, but last night it just powered off the same as the Sony. The projector is plugged into a Monster Power Converter, the HDMI cable to the projector comes from the receiver. Any ideas on why this is happening? It’s too coincidental that both projectors would have shut off issues. Just not sure where to start troubleshooting the issue.


I don't know what the 'Monster Power Converter' is supposed to be doing for you, but if the other projector was also plugged into it, try taking it out of the loop and see if that eliminates the problem.


----------



## ndabunka

leo9000 said:


> Last night while watching cable TV on my 5040UB, the projector suddenly powered off, as if I had hit the off button (I didn’t). This same thing had been happening with my previous Sony projector this past year. It started happening after I got the Harmony remote. At first I thought it was the remote, so I removed the projector from the activities and devices and used the projector remote to turn off and on. It still continued to happen randomly (once a week or so). Now that I got the 5040UB, I did not add it to the Harmony, but last night it just powered off the same as the Sony. The projector is plugged into a Monster Power Converter, the HDMI cable to the projector comes from the receiver. Any ideas on why this is happening? It’s too coincidental that both projectors would have shut off issues. Just not sure where to start troubleshooting the issue.


If the same thing is happening with different products, it's most logically the one common component, a faulty Monster Power Converter, right?


----------



## Jasinto

Samsung have bluray firmware update in german forum one user say add hdr compatibility with the epson 

Some folks can confirm the thing?


Saludos


----------



## leo9000

WestCDA said:


> I don't know what the 'Monster Power Converter' is supposed to be doing for you, but if the other projector was also plugged into it, try taking it out of the loop and see if that eliminates the problem.


Thanks, that’s what I was thinking. I think I’ll start by removing the Monster power conditioner from the loop. Just odd that this started occurring when I got the Harmony, but it’s possible that was just a coincidence.


----------



## Kelvin1000

leo9000 said:


> Thanks, that’s what I was thinking. I think I’ll start by removing the Monster power conditioner from the loop. Just odd that this started occurring when I got the Harmony, but it’s possible that was just a coincidence.




Power conditioners and search protectors degrade overtime and must be changed periodically.


----------



## leo9000

Kelvin1000 said:


> Power conditioners and search protectors degrade overtime and must be changed periodically.


Thanks, that's good to know. I've had it for around 13 years. Yikes!


----------



## jamieuk147

Is the 5040UB the UK version of the Tw9300?


----------



## MaximTre

Jasinto said:


> Samsung have bluray firmware update in german forum one user say add hdr compatibility with the epson
> 
> Some folks can confirm the thing?
> 
> 
> Saludos


Just tested, it's true, it works now.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Getting my tomorrow morning! cant wait, I already own philips UHD player along with some UHD disks. Reading this forum makes me worried, not sure what settings to use to get the optimum outcome, all this 8, 10 & 12 bits talk confuse me even more. My use will be bluray, UHD, PS4 & XBOX1. Any special setting I have to use? I noticed only one hdmi input support hdcp 2.2, is the only lost benefit from the other port is that I cant stream protected 4k content?


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> Just tested, it's true, it works now.




Nice. So with the Samsung and Epson, what bit and chroma is it showing uhd bluray at? 4:2:0 10 bit? 

And is Netflix 4K HDR working on the Samsung and at what setting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## filter_sweep

MaximTre said:


> Just tested, it's true, it works now.




For those of us who haven't purchased a UHD player yet, can you elaborate? Any special settings / configuration needed? What signal does the 5040 say it's receiving along with HDR (8, 10 or 12 bit)? Looking to pick up a player on Black Friday and if the Samsung is now at parity with the Philips then it will increase my chances of getting a good deal.


----------



## spirithockey79

Got my 5040 a couple days ago and I can't believe the difference it makes. I'm coming from a 5010 which I thought was very good. The 4k enhancement on 1080p is no joke! I don't have a 4k player yet but did get the Roku Premier+ and the 4k streaming on Youtube is incredible. I understand the issues everyone is talking about with HDR though. 

I've run into a weird problem though and Epson support has said they haven't heard of this one yet so they will research and get back to me. Here's the issue:. 

When I was watching 4k streaming on Youtube I was playing around with the HDR modes and color space and found a combination that was OK. Not great, but okay. I decided to save a memory slot with those settings for 4k streaming. When I switched back Blu-ray input which is PS4 everything was fine but then I tried to load my original memory setting for Blu-ray and the screen went blank. The projector was still in, iris closed down quite a bit but remote was unresponsive as was controls on PJ. Blue power light was on, couldn't really hear much noise coming from PJ but wouldn't power off. So I had to unplug. 

After about 10 min I powered it back on. When I was messing around trying to get a response from the PJ I switch input on AVR (Denon x4200w) to DirecTV, so that's what came up when I powered the PJ back up. The color space and HDR modes was still active, so I tried again to use the original memory that I have set for Blu-ray (Dynamic Range and Color Space both set to Auto). PJ froze again. 

Powered back up but had AVR source set to PS4. Manually changed the settings to Auto, re-saved the memory. Added a new memory with random changes to settings. Flip back between those memory settings and everything is fine. Go back to Roku>Youtube and manually change settings. Everything is fine. Switch back to PS4, manually change, everything fine. Then toggle memories with "Auto" for HDR and Color Space, everything changes fine. Toggle back to memory that I saved when first doing streaming 4K on Roku (while in PS4 input), freezes again.

Anyone experiencing this? Like I said Epson had no clue, just asked what FW I was on which is 1.05 ( I think). It say 105 for Main and 103 for Video 2, whatever that is.

So for now, when wanting to change settings after switching between a 4k source and 1080p source I guess I will have to change the Color Space and HDR manually. Very strange.


----------



## ndabunka

MaximTre said:


> Just tested, it's true, it works now.


What's true? What works now that didn't before?


----------



## frenzy987

jamieuk147 said:


> Is the 5040UB the UK version of the Tw9300?


I believe the EU version of the 5040 is the 8300 which is white (in contrast to 5040), the 9300 (in black) is the equivalent of the 6040 but I don't believe it comes with the spare lamp and mounting bracket like the 6040 does.


----------



## Black Banshee

Woot! FedEx just delivered my 5040, can't wait to hook this baby up


----------



## Rodrigo Ventura Rosenblut

*Denon AVRX3100 and Epson Home Cinema 5040UBe and Marseille mCable*

Dear readers, hopefully somebody have the chance to read this and help me out, i'm just about to configure my first step into the projection/home theater world and i would need some advices to get the most of it.

As i'm aware, the Epson projector does only upconvert 1080p to 4K via e-shift technology, but my concerns comes when i have to pass through the Denon Receiver AVRX3100 from the sources, for example my sources are DirecTV (1080i), Apple TV (1080p), PS4 (1080p) and Google's Chromecast (1080p), these will be connected to the receiver's input, the receiver output will be connected to the Epson's HDMI through a Fusion4K High Speed 4K HDMI 2.0 cable - Professional Series Ultra HD (it was the better i could find for the 40ft. distance i needed for my projectors distance), so i have 2 questions:

1) getting special HDMI cables from the sources to the receiver would make any difference at all in quality/performance? i've seen these Marseille mCable that does upconvert content, but not sure if it's worth it at all.

2) the receiver does have wireless hdmi feature, can i get any advantage using this in combination with special hdmi cables against the 40ft. hdmi which im concerned it could lose some quality/speed due distance...

3) any tips/ideas/suggestion/advices to get the most with my configuration?

* i've already purchased the projector and the 40ft. hdmi cable... regard the denon receiver is the best option available in my country which supports 4k content, advices/suggestions/tips?


----------



## gnolivos

spirithockey79 said:


> I've run into a weird problem though and Epson support has said they haven't heard of this one yet so they will research and get back to me. Here's the issue:.
> 
> When I was watching 4k streaming on Youtube I was playing around with the HDR modes and color space and found a combination that was OK. Not great, but okay. I decided to save a memory slot with those settings for 4k streaming. When I switched back Blu-ray input which is PS4 everything was fine but then I tried to load my original memory setting for Blu-ray and the screen went blank. The projector was still in, iris closed down quite a bit but remote was unresponsive as was controls on PJ. Blue power light was on, couldn't really hear much noise coming from PJ but wouldn't power off. So I had to unplug.
> 
> After about 10 min I powered it back on. When I was messing around trying to get a response from the PJ I switch input on AVR (Denon x4200w) to DirecTV, so that's what came up when I powered the PJ back up. The color space and HDR modes was still active, so I tried again to use the original memory that I have set for Blu-ray (Dynamic Range and Color Space both set to Auto). PJ froze again.



That is bollocks!!! I have the same EXACT issue with 2 projectors Epson sent me and have been in contact with them weekly because they are actively trying to resolve. They even set up a 5040 in their lab and have been switching modes back and forth hundreds of times trying to reproduce. 

That hey tell you they have no clue about the issue is, well, an uninformed statement. 

Make sure you call again. Tell them to refer to reference numbers from my open cases:
160922-001664
161001-001917

They are well aware of our issue. Glad I'm not alone!


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> That is bollocks!!! I have the same EXACT issue with 2 projectors Epson sent me and have been in contact with them weekly because they are actively trying to resolve. They even set up a 5040 in their lab and have been switching modes back and forth hundreds of times trying to reproduce.
> 
> That hey tell you they have no clue about the issue is, well, an uninformed statement.
> 
> Make sure you call again. Tell them to refer to reference numbers from my open cases:
> 160922-001664
> 161001-001917
> 
> They are well aware of our issue. Glad I'm not alone!




Agreed! Glad I'm not the only one as well. So I wonder if others haven't necessarily tried these exact steps that would reproduce the issue or if their PJ's don't have that problem. 

I'll definitely call back and reference your cases. On a separate note, I have a BT 2020 vs Rec 709 question and you seem to have some pretty good knowledge based on reading your prior posts. I'm watching the Huntsman Winters War on Blu-ray but can't select 4k enhancement presumably because the source resolution is higher than 1080p. So I thought I would mess with the color space and change to BT 2020 and it looks pretty awesome. Colors are probably more saturated than they should be but still looks good. Is this normal? I thought the only benefit of BT 2020 was with 4k and HDR. Remember I don't have a 4k Blu-ray player.

I'm using Natural but I've read posts about the benefit of Cinema because of the P3 filter, but I still think Natural looks better than Cinema. Am I not combining the various settings appropriately?


----------



## dsewardj

*Glorious*

Just installed this bad boy last night and I am very pleased. This is by far the best upgrade to my setup ever. Below is the setup:

- Screen Innovations Slate 1.2 motorized 110" screen
- Onkyo TX-NR646 receiver
- Polk Audio speakers (they do their job; been eyeing the ELACs)
- Xbox One S 2GB (for blu-ray 4k only, gaming is done on the PC)
- Wii U (I lied, gaming exceptions must be made for Mario Kart and Smash Bros)
- PC (1080 GTX SLI is almost irresponsible)

I should have calibrated the light cannon first but couldn't resist snapping a few photos. I am seriously considering getting rid of my tv and using this exclusively. Brother stopped by to grab some tools while I was watching X-Men Days of Future Past 4k blu-ray during the day with light pouring in through the kitchen. He couldn't believe this was a projector. He stayed for the rest of the movie.


----------



## gnolivos

spirithockey79 said:


> On a separate note, I have a BT 2020 vs Rec 709 question and you seem to have some pretty good knowledge based on reading your prior posts. I'm watching the Huntsman Winters War on Blu-ray but can't select 4k enhancement presumably because the source resolution is higher than 1080p. So I thought I would mess with the color space and change to BT 2020 and it looks pretty awesome. Colors are probably more saturated than they should be but still looks good. Is this normal? I thought the only benefit of BT 2020 was with 4k and HDR. Remember I don't have a 4k Blu-ray player.
> 
> I'm using Natural but I've read posts about the benefit of Cinema because of the P3 filter, but I still think Natural looks better than Cinema. Am I not combining the various settings appropriately?



My knowledge on this is very limited to be honest. My understanding is that for all blurays the color space is based on rec 709. In any case what I do know for sure is that you want to match the color space to the source. If you have a rec 709 source you want to make sure the Epson is set for 709. The easiest way to handle this is to leave in auto mode.

I too once tried changing the color space to something different and at first I thought it looked better with more pop, but shortly after noticed that it was crushing the dark areas and blowing out light areas. Not good at all, and I reverted. 

After testing several modes, my recommendation for movie watching it is the Cinema mode. It does have the P3 filter which darkens things a little bit but in my dark theater room I use Cinema mode with low lamp setting and in fact have to close the iris!! So bright. 

My next choice is Bright Cinema with some warming tweaks of the color temperature. I use this if I have any ambient light for watching sports with friends etc. 

I don't use any other modes.


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> My knowledge on this is very limited to be honest. My understanding is that for all blurays the color space is based on rec 709. In any case what I do know for sure is that you want to match the color space to the source. If you have a rec 709 source you want to make sure the Epson is set for 709. The easiest way to handle this is to leave in auto mode.
> 
> I too once tried changing the color space to something different and at first I thought it looked better with more pop, but shortly after noticed that it was crushing the dark areas and blowing out light areas. Not good at all, and I reverted.
> 
> After testing several modes, my recommendation for movie watching it is the Cinema mode. It does have the P3 filter which darkens things a little bit but in my dark theater room I use Cinema mode with low lamp setting and in fact have to close the iris!! So bright.
> 
> My next choice is Bright Cinema with some warming tweaks of the color temperature. I use this if I have any ambient light for watching sports with friends etc.
> 
> I don't use any other modes.




Ok, thanks for the tips. I've been switching back and forth and I think I agree with you on Cinema. I also have dark theater and have iris at about -15. Question - do you have super white set to ON? The default was off but setting to ON makes the picture so much better IMO - having off just lightens the picture so much. 

If I hear back from Epson I'll be sure to provide an update.


----------



## gnolivos

spirithockey79 said:


> Ok, thanks for the tips. I've been switching back and forth and I think I agree with you on Cinema. I also have dark theater and have iris at about -15. Question - do you have super white set to ON? The default was off but setting to ON makes the picture so much better IMO - having off just lightens the picture so much.
> 
> If I hear back from Epson I'll be sure to provide an update.




I think Super White setting needs to match your player. I have a PS3 with such a setting. (Going From memory here). 

Anyway, whatever setting you use , make sure you calibrate Brightness and Contrast using Disney WoW or similar tool. Most Pixar discs have this.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> After testing several modes, my recommendation for movie watching it is the Cinema mode. It does have the P3 filter which darkens things a little bit but in my dark theater room I use Cinema mode with low lamp setting and in fact have to close the iris!! So bright.
> 
> My next choice is Bright Cinema with some warming tweaks of the color temperature. I use this if I have any ambient light for watching sports with friends etc.
> 
> I don't use any other modes.


I use DIGITAL CINEMA almost exclusively and believe that it also has the P3 filter in place. IMHO Bright Cinema is WAY too bright in pretty much all cases for any practical use in my HT including during the day with shades partially open. I run my lamp in ECO and MEDIUM modes only switching to HIGH for 3D content during daylight hours. At night or with the shades fully closed, 3D still pops even in medium mode.

I leave the Iris in AUTO 100% of the time and it works wonderfully. No reason at all to lock it open or closed thereby un-necessarily reducing contrast. Part of the reason I bought this particular projector was to get those high contrast levels that can ONLY be provided through the use of a Dynamic Iris. Granted, I was spoiled by first having the VPL-HW50ES with the DI but this Epson even outperforms the Sony! Very happy with this projector to this point.


----------



## MaximTre

k3nnis said:


> Nice. So with the Samsung and Epson, what bit and chroma is it showing uhd bluray at? 4:2:0 10 bit?
> 
> And is Netflix 4K HDR working on the Samsung and at what setting?


BD UHD -> 12bit/4:2:2/24hz signal 
No hdr flag for netxflix but, does the ks8500 netflix app support hdr?
I was told it doesn't.


----------



## MaximTre

filter_sweep said:


> For those of us who haven't purchased a UHD player yet, can you elaborate? Any special settings / configuration needed? What signal does the 5040 say it's receiving along with HDR (8, 10 or 12 bit)? Looking to pick up a player on Black Friday and if the Samsung is now at parity with the Philips then it will increase my chances of getting a good deal.


It' s 12bit, 4:2:2, 24hz signal.
No special setting, everything on auto as before the update.


----------



## MaximTre

ndabunka said:


> What's true? What works now that didn't before?


The Samsung KS8500 player received a software update yesterday.
After the update, the hdr signal is correctly passed to the epson using a cable connection.


----------



## morellihugo

ndabunka said:


> I use DIGITAL CINEMA almost exclusively and believe that it also has the P3 filter in place. IMHO Bright Cinema is WAY too bright in pretty much all cases for any practical use in my HT including during the day with shades partially open. I run my lamp in ECO and MEDIUM modes only switching to HIGH for 3D content during daylight hours. At night or with the shades fully closed, 3D still pops even in medium mode


3D content and frame interpolation, what setting do you think is better, low, normal??? 3D cinema or dynamic?


----------



## Ronman79

dsewardj said:


> Just installed this bad boy last night and I am very pleased. This is by far the best upgrade to my setup ever. Below is the setup:
> 
> - Screen Innovations Slate 1.2 motorized 110" screen
> - Onkyo TX-NR646 receiver
> - Polk Audio speakers (they do their job;


Hey, depending on what you have, Polk does some really good stuff, with really good value. I love my Polks. And, congrats! Nice setup. Have fun! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

MaximTre said:


> The Samsung KS8500 player received a software update yesterday.
> After the update, the hdr signal is correctly passed to the epson using a cable connection.


 @MississippiMan, check this out. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## nickoakdl

MaximTre said:


> The Samsung KS8500 player received a software update yesterday.
> After the update, the hdr signal is correctly passed to the epson using a cable connection.


Is that with just UHD discs or with Netflix, Amazon Prime, and VUDU as well?


----------



## hatlesschimp

Battlefield 1 is pretty sweet on the 6040ub! Input lag and pixel refresh rate are excellent.


----------



## MaximTre

nickoakdl said:


> Is that with just UHD discs or with Netflix, Amazon Prime, and VUDU as well?


Can't comment on amazon ad vudu app (not available here), but netflix app of the player doesn't support hdr at all (tested on a last generation Samung TV too, just in case)


----------



## k3nnis

So which media player or blu ray player supports Netflix 4K HDR at present?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jasinto

k3nnis said:


> So which media player or blu ray player supports Netflix 4K HDR at present?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


nvidia shield tv does but I read here before not with epsons , i have the nvidia shield but not the epson for check


Saludos


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks. If someone could check with the Epson that would be great 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dsewardj

Ronman79 said:


> Hey, depending on what you have, Polk does some really good stuff, with really good value. I love my Polks. And, congrats! Nice setup. Have fun!
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Thanks, and I didn't mean to disparage Polk Audio. The front speakers are Polk Audio Monitor70 Series II and for the price they have proven to be great entry level speakers. They can be a bit too bright at times, which does not bother me when watching movies or playing games, but when I listen to music I tend to notice more. After reading the rave reviews about the ELAC Debut F5 it is very tempting.


----------



## morellihugo

k3nnis said:


> So which media player or blu ray player supports Netflix 4K HDR at present?


The new Roku Premiere+ and Roku Ultra, both support HDR on Netflix and Amazon video. I have the premiere+...


----------



## k3nnis

morellihugo said:


> The new Roku Premiere+ and Roku Ultra, both support HDR on Netflix and Amazon video. I have the premiere+...




Thanks. Can you show a screenshot of the Epson information ie what bit and chrome and Hz it's playing netflix4k HDR at?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jamieuk147

Anyone kind enough to tell there calibrated settings?? As I find the cinema mode very red, especially people's skin tones.

Also..... Would I let my oppo do the upscaling 4Kx2k or best letting the Epson?


----------



## Black Banshee

*Rs-232?*

Has anyone else tried to control their 5040 via rs-232? I'm trying to set that up but the projector won't respond to commands and I couldn't find a setting in the menu to enable rs-232 or is it always supposed to be on?

Edit: doing some research it looks like you need to use a null modem db9 cable, not the standard pass-thru rs-232. Just ordered a db9 cable and will confirm.


----------



## techjoy

Is anyone projecting to a 100" 16:9 screen from an 11'-6" to 12'-0" distance with no issues? I am limited to that throw and wanted at least a 100" screen. That range is within the throw ratio of the 6040 according to the specs and at the lower range of the ALR screens I'm looking at (1.5x W.O.S.), but I want to know if there are any real work issues being on the low end of the throw range instead of on the sweet spot.

Thanks.


----------



## canillo

Ok..this will sound silly..but has anyone had the idea of having 2 epsons 5040ub creating one single image. That way we would be able to double the lumens and create the ultimate bright image for an HDR viewing? I work for Cirque du soleil and we use 4 projector per image , because the amount of brighness we need on those images. I guess it would be tricky to match and align the pixels but if it works I think $6,000 for a 5,000 lumens 4k HDR is not bad. Would this make any other improvements aditional to more light output? anyone has done this before?


----------



## dvdwilly3

jamieuk147 said:


> Anyone kind enough to tell there calibrated settings?? As I find the cinema mode very red, especially people's skin tones.
> 
> Also..... Would I let my oppo do the upscaling 4Kx2k or best letting the Epson?


The settings from Sound and Vision testing are a good starting place.

http://www.soundandvision.com/conte...projector-review-settings#bQcX8xspXjRzYTps.97

I used those for the Customized memory setting, except that I used the Natural picture setting instead of Cinema.

I am still playing with settings...they are almost infinitely variable...

It is difficult to get a bad picture out of this projector.


----------



## aaranddeeman

canillo said:


> Ok..this will sound silly..but has anyone had the idea of having 2 epsons 5040ub creating one single image. That way we would be able to double the lumens and create the ultimate bright image for an HDR viewing? I work for Cirque du soleil and we use 4 projector per image , because the amount of brighness we need on those images. I guess it would be tricky to match and align the pixels but if it works I think $6,000 for a 5,000 lumens 4k HDR is not bad. Would this make any other improvements aditional to more light output? anyone has done this before?


You have already done it. So what is stopping you now?


----------



## canillo

aaranddeeman said:


> canillo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok..this will sound silly..but has anyone had the idea of having 2 epsons 5040ub creating one single image. That way we would be able to double the lumens and create the ultimate bright image for an HDR viewing? I work for Cirque du soleil and we use 4 projector per image , because the amount of brighness we need on those images. I guess it would be tricky to match and align the pixels but if it works I think $6,000 for a 5,000 lumens 4k HDR is not bad. Would this make any other improvements aditional to more light output? anyone has done this before?
> 
> 
> 
> You have already done it. So what is stopping you now?
Click to expand...

beacuse Im a performer not the projector guy. So I havent done it my self. And we use commercial $100,000 projectors. Wanted to see if anyone has done it in a home set up an gotten any good results


----------



## spirithockey79

techjoy said:


> Is anyone projecting to a 100" 16:9 screen from an 11'-6" to 12'-0" distance with no issues? I am limited to that throw and wanted at least a 100" screen. That range is within the throw ratio of the 6040 according to the specs and at the lower range of the ALR screens I'm looking at (1.5x W.O.S.), but I want to know if there are any real work issues being on the low end of the throw range instead of on the sweet spot.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.




Should be no problem. I have a 110" 2.35 screen at pretty much max closeness/zoom for 5040, which is like 11'6". No issues at all with picture. At 12' you might be able to go up to 120".


----------



## Hawkmarket

canillo said:


> Ok..this will sound silly..but has anyone had the idea of having 2 epsons 5040ub creating one single image. That way we would be able to double the lumens and create the ultimate bright image for an HDR viewing? I work for Cirque du soleil and we use 4 projector per image , because the amount of brighness we need on those images. I guess it would be tricky to match and align the pixels but if it works I think $6,000 for a 5,000 lumens 4k HDR is not bad. Would this make any other improvements aditional to more light output? anyone has done this before?




I like your thinking! I'm not sure if it's practically possible in a home environment to align them perfectly or what that takes but I'm sure it's a rather sophisticated process. In addition, as I understand it you won't be getting anywhere near 5,000 lumens of HDR with two of these projectors. More like 1,500 peak.


----------



## aaranddeeman

canillo said:


> beacuse Im a performer not the projector guy. So I havent done it my self. And we use commercial $100,000 projectors. Wanted to see if anyone has done it in a home set up an gotten any good results


Ah okay.
As mentioned in the post above, alignment is going to PITA. And yes no 5000 lumens for HDR.


----------



## royboy365

techjoy said:


> Is anyone projecting to a 100" 16:9 screen from an 11'-6" to 12'-0" distance with no issues? I am limited to that throw and wanted at least a 100" screen. That range is within the throw ratio of the 6040 according to the specs and at the lower range of the ALR screens I'm looking at (1.5x W.O.S.), but I want to know if there are any real work issues being on the low end of the throw range instead of on the sweet spot.
> 
> Thanks.


I'm projecting 100" from 11' on my first screen and 150" from 25' on my second screen and both look excellent. 

I find it interesting that you mention a sweet spot as I was always under the impression that the sweet spot was as close to the screen as possible to get the most amount of lumens on the screen. The distance you mentioned is only a foot away from the closest you can be for 100".


----------



## royboy365

canillo said:


> Ok..this will sound silly..but has anyone had the idea of having 2 epsons 5040ub creating one single image. That way we would be able to double the lumens and create the ultimate bright image for an HDR viewing? I work for Cirque du soleil and we use 4 projector per image , because the amount of brighness we need on those images. I guess it would be tricky to match and align the pixels but if it works I think $6,000 for a 5,000 lumens 4k HDR is not bad. Would this make any other improvements aditional to more light output? anyone has done this before?


This is actually not too difficult as people have been using 2 projectors to display passive 3d for quite awhile and there is specific hardware and software available to make it easier to do that.

My only thought would be that for non HDR content it would be too bright but then I suppose you could always turn off one projector.

A search on "how to make 3d with 2 projectors" will get you a bunch of info and I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't thread on AVS about it.


----------



## gnolivos

Closer = more lumen. 
Farther = more contrast. 

Well, a function of zoom lens more than distance, but you get the idea.


----------



## KRGM1

I can't get a 4K picture from a 4K Blu Ray with the Samsung player. It has the update. The following message is displayed before the Blu Ray begins:
The ​_content will be played in HD because_ the display or the HDMI input port does not support 
HDCP 2.2


I'm using the same HDMI cables that work flawlessly with my Sony 4K projector. Info says 10 bit 4:4:4 BT 709 HDR2. 1920 x 1080. Any suggestions? HDMI video direct to projector, HDMI audio to processor. Netflix and Amazon work with 4K and Amazon works with 4K HDR.​


----------



## gnolivos

KRGM1 said:


> I can't get a 4K picture from a 4K Blu Ray with the Samsung player. It has the update. The following message is displayed before the Blu Ray begins:
> The ​_content will be played in HD because_ the display or the HDMI input port does not support
> HDCP 2.2
> 
> 
> I'm using the same HDMI cables that work flawlessly with my Sony 4K projector. Info says 10 bit 4:4:4 BT 709 HDR2. 1920 x 1080. Any suggestions? HDMI video direct to projector, HDMI audio to processor. Netflix and Amazon work with 4K and Amazon works with 4K HDR.​




You're probably connected to HDMI port 2? Try port 1 which is the only HDCP 2.2 compliant port.


----------



## KRGM1

LOL, such a simple fix. I thought this projector had both ports compliant. I've been trying to fix this for about an hour now. Thanks. Changed to 12 bit 4:2:2 BT 2020 and HDR2, and of course 3840 x 2160.


----------



## royboy365

KRGM1 said:


> LOL, such a simple fix. I thought this projector had both ports compliant. I've been trying to fix this for about an hour now. Thanks. Changed to 12 bit 4:2:2 BT 2020 and HDR2, and of course 3840 x 2160.


That's been one of my beefs about the projector. Would it *really* have been that big of a deal to make them both compliant?


----------



## canillo

KRGM1 said:


> LOL, such a simple fix. I thought this projector had both ports compliant. I've been trying to fix this for about an hour now. Thanks. Changed to 12 bit 4:2:2 BT 2020 and HDR2, and of course 3840 x 2160.


does this mean samsung and epson fixed their communication problems?


----------



## chiltonj

royboy365 said:


> That's been one of my beefs about the projector. Would it *really* have been that big of a deal to make them both compliant?


So much for passing through video directly from, let's say the oppo 203, to the 2nd port on the projector. Damn. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## jamieuk147

Will I be able to watch a UHD Blu-ray via HDMI 1 with a high speed HDMI 1.4 cable or must it be HDMI 2.0?

Not sure if HDMI 1.4 passes HDCP 2.2 restrictions?


----------



## Pesonen

canillo said:


> does this mean samsung and epson fixed their communication problems?


Hey, I have performed the "1008" update on the Samsung UBD-K8500 4K-player as well as the 105/103 update on my 9300W projector. I was hoping they would resolve the HDR-issue over an HDMI connection but sadly it does not. Samsung has done something because the projector info tells you everything is as it should (12 bit 4:2:2 and BT.2020 HDR2) but the image is dim and has the issues I've seen before the update over an HDMI-connection (when the info read 8 bit and Rec 709) are still clearly visible. Colours are not produced as they should and gradients of light are coarsely rendered in the image. A clear example of the problem can be seen in the final scene of Batman V Superman where Lois stands over a grave, the sky is filled with artefacts and layers of light are roughly rendered. I have attached photos taken with my iphone but the problem is even clearer when viewing. Shots were taken in Bright cinema mode in HDR1.

With a wireless connection on the Samsung player I get an image which is brighter and shows colours and light evenly. My massive problems with the wireless connection that works only when it wants to leads me to return the Samsung player and buying a Panasonic 4K player. I don't know if the Panasonic would help the wireless connection but at least I will get a proper HDMI connection.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Pesonen said:


> Hey, I have performed the "1008" update on the Samsung UBD-K8500 4K-player as well as the 105/103 update on my 9300W projector. I was hoping they would resolve the HDR-issue over an HDMI connection but sadly it does not. Samsung has done something because the projector info tells you everything is as it should (12 bit 4:2:2 and BT.2020 *HDR2*) but the image is dim and has the issues I've seen before the update over an HDMI-connection (when the info read 8 bit and Rec 709) are still clearly visible. Colours are not produced as they should and gradients of light are coarsely rendered in the image. A clear example of the problem can be seen in the final scene of Batman V Superman where Lois stands over a grave, the sky is filled with artefacts and layers of light are roughly rendered. I have attached photos taken with my iphone but the problem is even clearer when viewing. Shots were taken in Bright cinema mode in HDR1.
> 
> With a wireless connection on the Samsung player I get an image which is brighter and shows colours and light evenly. My massive problems with the wireless connection that works only when it wants to leads me to return the Samsung player and buying a Panasonic 4K player. I don't know if the Panasonic would help the wireless connection but at least I will get a proper HDMI connection.


I remember reading that you should use HDR1 preset than HDR2


----------



## aaranddeeman

jamieuk147 said:


> Will I be able to watch a UHD Blu-ray via HDMI 1 with a high speed HDMI 1.4 cable or must it be HDMI 2.0?
> 
> Not sure if HDMI 1.4 passes HDCP 2.2 restrictions?


IMHO there is no such thing as HDMI1.4 cable or HDMI2.0 cable.
The cables are the same. Those are the specifications.


----------



## Kelvin1000

aaranddeeman said:


> I remember reading that you should use HDR1 preset than HDR2



This is correct.


----------



## Pesonen

aaranddeeman said:


> I remember reading that you should use HDR1 preset than HDR2


Yes and I use HDR1 but the info screen will always tell you that you are in "HDR2" for some reason.


----------



## ndabunka

canillo said:


> does this mean samsung and epson fixed their communication problems?


 Samsung makes a patch for it's devices and you are asking if this means that Epson did something (to fix a KNOWN Samsung issue)? 

The obvious answer is...
"NO, as it is Samsung that is responsible for fixing THEIR flaw which was never was an EPSON issue in the first place"

*Here's your question in the corrected presentation*


canillo;47510657{SIC} said:


> Does this mean that Samsung FINALLY got around to correcting their communication problems?


Answer: Possibly but they may need to make other corrections as well
:laugh:


----------



## MississippiMan

*Concerning the Samsung 8500 Update*



Ronman79 said:


> @*MississippiMan* , check this out.


Hopefully that is / will be good news.

My Owner got a gander at an image in 1080p using the HDR presets we engaged and went nuts....as in "not so happy". And who could blame him as the image was dim, dull, and incredibly Red.

I got a call from him...a text from his Wife, both pleading me to change it back asap. 

I rushed over and did so, resetting the PJ on Default, and it was looking so good then he (owner) said please...just leave it like that. 

Granted, these Folks are decidedly "Non-Techy", most of their DVDs are SD. 

But of coursed they are elated at having a 175" 2.39:1 and a 178" 16:9 image at the level of quality the Epson delivers "out of the box", so it's not like I'm smelling Tar boiling or the Chickens are running around naked. 

Now....I will return...upgrade, and give the HDR settings another chance, using both the Wired and Wireless connections. I'll say this....if I can set up the HDR functionality and it does not adversely impact non-NDR content (IMO) then I will do so and leave it and then just settle back and wait for the next Phone call.

(...which BTW, also included the fact that the PJ powered down,and would not restart! I came by and unplugged it and it reset and has had no issues since. We shall see....we shall see.......)

Lastly, upcoming will be a series of Screen Shots in HDR mode if such a thing can be done. For the record, I gotta express to those who might care....given a proper screen surface and governable room conditions, the 5040 can power up 160" to 180" diagonal images with no problem. So all those of you with picayune, tiny 130'ers, or Postage Stamp sized 100"-110"ers, you've got "Zerox" potential going for ya!


----------



## gnolivos

It's true I'm projecting on a measly 110" and I have to set the lamp to LOW even on Cinema mode, AND have to close the iris a few notches. This thing could easily fill a much larger screen no doubt.


----------



## njbrodeur87

Can anyone confirm if hdr with Xbox one s still doesn't work with this projector? Any news when that might change or if it ever will?


----------



## ndabunka

njbrodeur87 said:


> Can anyone confirm if hdr with Xbox one s still doesn't work with this projector? Any news when that might change or if it ever will?


Have you heard that MS released a patch or something? If not, then just like Samsung did, Microsoft will eventually figure it out and issue a patch...or not


----------



## mhendu

*Nvidia control panel / 12-bit color*



hoogs said:


> I'll check 1080 tonight, but here is what I can output from my GTX 1080:
> 
> [email protected] 8bit 4:2:0
> [email protected] 8bit 4:4:4
> [email protected] 8bit 4:2:0
> [email protected] 8bit 4:4:4
> [email protected] (I'll check chroma tonight but I wanted to confirm you cannot use 120hz)


I have a GTX 1070 and an Epson 6040UB, hooked up via HDMI 2.0a cables (18Gbps compliant) through a Denon X6300H. At one point I had the projector displaying 4K with 12 bit color, not sure how, but I was able to confirm this when looking at the projector's information menu; however, when I swapped out my old cables with the new HDMI 2.0a cables I can no longer get it to do this (and it won't work with the old cables now either). From what I've read in this forum ideally I'd be able to set the graphics card to output 4K 30Hz 12-bit 4:2:2 but this doesn't seem to be an option in the Nvidia control panel. Has anyone managed to set their Nvidia card to use 12-bit color successfully and, if so, how did you do it?


----------



## hatlesschimp

Ive had 4k 60hz at 8 bit from my Titan X. 

Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk


----------



## mhendu

mhendu said:


> I have a GTX 1070 and an Epson 6040UB, hooked up via HDMI 2.0a cables (18Gbps compliant) through a Denon X6300H. At one point I had the projector displaying 4K with 12 bit color, not sure how, but I was able to confirm this when looking at the projector's information menu; however, when I swapped out my old cables with the new HDMI 2.0a cables I can no longer get it to do this (and it won't work with the old cables now either). From what I've read in this forum ideally I'd be able to set the graphics card to output 4K 30Hz 12-bit 4:2:2 but this doesn't seem to be an option in the Nvidia control panel. Has anyone managed to set their Nvidia card to use 12-bit color successfully and, if so, how did you do it?


OK, scratch that. I can set to YCbCr 4:2:2 12-bit color @ 30Hz 4K, but the dynamic range box can only be set to 'limited'. The projector shows that it's receiving 12-bit color @ 4:2:2 but the color format shows as BT.709 SDR. Is there a way to get HDR? If I set to RGB 8-bit color with full dynamic range the projector still displays BT.709 SDR. A little confused on how I can get HDR working with an Nvidia graphics card and this projector.


----------



## ndabunka

mhendu said:


> OK, scratch that. I can set to YCbCr 4:2:2 12-bit color @ 30Hz 4K, but the dynamic range box can only be set to 'limited'. The projector shows that it's receiving 12-bit color @ 4:2:2 but the color format shows as BT.709 SDR. Is there a way to get HDR? If I set to RGB 8-bit color with full dynamic range the projector still displays BT.709 SDR. A little confused on how I can get HDR working with an Nvidia graphics card and this projector.


The Epson manual shows that it "translates" the 12-bit 4:2:2 to 10-bit 4:2:2 so rather than requiring that translation why not simply set the Nvidia card to output 10-bit 4:2:2 as that would match the projectors published capabilities, right?


----------



## JewDaddy

After watching about 5 movies in 4K HDR with the Phillips player and both the projector and Phillips having the latest firmware, I prefer 1080p with the settings I came up with that look good to my eyes. The colors pop as much if not more than HDR, and yes that includes HDR Mode 1. I would say the true 4K as opposed to the 4K enhanceement looks a little more clear and sharp but not enough to take away FI. Once again, just my preference. I'm sure most don't use FI on high when watching movies. My eyes have just gotten so used to it that it's hard for me to watch without it. And, I feel like the motion handling on this projector is very bad without it on at least on low. I guess it's all about what we're able to find that makes us happy with the picture and with our purchase. Glad I've finally been able to do that with my settings. It can be frustrating trying to find settings we can be happy with and not feel the urge to make changes. I can sit back and just enjoy what I'm watching now


----------



## WynsWrld98

JewDaddy said:


> After watching about 5 movies in 4K HDR with the Phillips player and both the projector and Phillips having the latest firmware, I prefer 1080p with the settings I came up with that lookmgood to my eyes. The colors pop as much if not more than HDR, and yes that includes HDR Mode 1. I would say the true 4K as opposed to the 4K enhanceement looks a little more clear and sharp but not enough to take away FI. Once again, just my preference. I'm sure most don't use FI on high when watching movies. My eyes have just gotten so used to it that it's hard for me to watch without it. And, I feel like the motion handling on this projector is very bad without it on at least on low. I guess it's all about what we're able to find that makes us happy with the picture and with our purchase. Glad I've finally been able to do that with my settings. It can be frustrating trying to find settings we can be happy with and not feel the urge to make changes. I can sit back and just enjoy what I'm watching now


I'm one of the oddballs that likes F.I. as well. I'd be curious why it isn't available with a 4K signal because as far as I know the JVC RS400 that has been out for over a year does offer F.I. with 4K signals.

If I recall correctly with the Epson 6010 F.I. wasn't available in 3D but when I upgraded to the 5030 it is available. I wonder if Epson will do the same thing in that it will be available in the 5050. I'm just curious why it isn't available with the 5040.

Based on your comments about preferring 1080p over 4K HDR on the Epson I wonder if you were to try a 4K UHD player like the upcoming Oppo 203 whereby supposedly you can keep 4K and the wide color but use SDR vs. HDR what you'd think of that. I read on the RS400 forum that some prefer SDR over HDR with UHD Blurays and are doing it using an HDFury Integral.


----------



## JewDaddy

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm one of the oddballs that likes F.I. as well. I'd be curious why it isn't available with a 4K signal because as far as I know the JVC RS400 that has been out for over a year does offer F.I. with 4K signals.
> 
> If I recall correctly with the Epson 6010 F.I. wasn't available in 3D but when I upgraded to the 6030 it is available. I wonder if Epson will do the same thing in that it will be available in the 5050. I'm just curious why it isn't available with the 5040.
> 
> Based on your comments about preferring 1080p over 4K HDR on the Epson I wonder if you were to try a 4K UHD player like the upcoming Oppo 203 whereby supposedly you can keep 4K and the wide color but use SDR vs. HDR what you'd think of that. I read on the RS400 forum that some prefer SDR over HDR with UHD Blurays and are doing it using an HDFury Integral.


It's funny how we feel like oddballs when it's a feature that comes with tv's. Obviously it's there for a reason right?? Lol. 

I'm not sure either why FI isn't available with 4K. Just seems like something they intentionally left out to make next years model a little more appealing to upgrade to. I had the 5020 and hated that FI wasnt avaiable in 3D. That's the reason I jumped to the 5030. Can't give us everything we want in a projector. 

It's not that I prefer the SDR over HDR. I really like how HDR looks on this projector. The HDR looked phenomenal with the new XMEN Apocalypse. But after watching half of it in 4K HDR, I switched the player to 1080p with my settings and it looked just as good. One of the key things I found to make the colors pop and look very very saturated was changing to BT 2020. Yes at first it looks overblown, but after you tweak some settings, it looks amazing. Took me some time but I got it. I assume about 95% of the people on here would hate them, they look great to my eyes. I just wish there was a way to get 4K HDR with FI on this projector. I would pay for them to release an update that would allow for it to be used in 4K.


----------



## Waikis

mhendu said:


> OK, scratch that. I can set to YCbCr 4:2:2 12-bit color @ 30Hz 4K, but the dynamic range box can only be set to 'limited'. The projector shows that it's receiving 12-bit color @ 4:2:2 but the color format shows as BT.709 SDR. Is there a way to get HDR? If I set to RGB 8-bit color with full dynamic range the projector still displays BT.709 SDR. A little confused on how I can get HDR working with an Nvidia graphics card and this projector.


What content / player are you using on your PC?
The only ones that work for me are the nvidia HDR demo and Shadow Warriors 2 (first PC game to support HDR).

Netflix / Youtube doesn't currently support HDR output via PC. 
I've played around with MadVR as well but can't seem to get it to output bt 2020.


----------



## techjoy

spirithockey79 said:


> Should be no problem. I have a 110" 2.35 screen at pretty much max closeness/zoom for 5040, which is like 11'6". No issues at all with picture. At 12' you might be able to go up to 120".


Spirit, what screen do you have? Standard 1.0 gain, ALR, etc.? Glad to hear it's working for you.


----------



## mhendu

ndabunka said:


> The Epson manual shows that it "translates" the 12-bit 4:2:2 to 10-bit 4:2:2 so rather than requiring that translation why not simply set the Nvidia card to output 10-bit 4:2:2 as that would match the projectors published capabilities, right?


That's fair, thanks for the suggestion. I'll make that adjustment to my settings.


----------



## spirithockey79

techjoy said:


> Spirit, what screen do you have? Standard 1.0 gain, ALR, etc.? Glad to hear it's working for you.




It's just a standard 1.2 gain white screen. You should be fine with that size on 1.78 or bigger.


----------



## spirithockey79

Can anyone explain the difference between Cinema and Digital Cinema? I read that digital cinema is similar to what a movie theater would project, but not sure exactly what that means. Also, I think Natural looks, well...more natural, but I've read posts recommending the cinema settings due to use of DCI P3. Is there that much of a difference in the color gamut? Is it a greater difference when viewing rec 709 v BT 2020?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

installed my TW9300 today and dang I got visible purple dot that appear on white background. need to contact the retailer to figure this out, looks like more than one pixel.


----------



## spirithockey79

JewDaddy said:


> It's funny how we feel like oddballs when it's a feature that comes with tv's. Obviously it's there for a reason right?? Lol.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure either why FI isn't available with 4K. Just seems like something they intentionally left out to make next years model a little more appealing to upgrade to. I had the 5020 and hated that FI wasnt avaiable in 3D. That's the reason I jumped to the 5030. Can't give us everything we want in a projector.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not that I prefer the SDR over HDR. I really like how HDR looks on this projector. The HDR looked phenomenal with the new XMEN Apocalypse. But after watching half of it in 4K HDR, I switched the player to 1080p with my settings and it looked just as good. One of the key things I found to make the colors pop and look very very saturated was changing to BT 2020. Yes at first it looks overblown, but after you tweak some settings, it looks amazing. Took me some time but I got it. I assume about 95% of the people on here would hate them, they look great to my eyes. I just wish there was a way to get 4K HDR with FI on this projector. I would pay for them to release an update that would allow for it to be used in 4K.




Are you saying to change to BT 2020 on HDR content only, or on SDR as well? I've been playing with settings and notice more pop in SDR content when changing to BT 2020, but know that the colors are oversaturated. What type of setting changes did you make in order to make the BT 2020 look good? 

I thought that it was best to leave the color space on Auto so it matches the source color output. Maybe I'm misinterpreting your post.


----------



## mhendu

Waikis said:


> What content / player are you using on your PC?
> The only ones that work for me are the nvidia HDR demo and Shadow Warriors 2 (first PC game to support HDR).
> 
> Netflix / Youtube doesn't currently support HDR output via PC.
> I've played around with MadVR as well but can't seem to get it to output bt 2020.


I use Kodi as my main player - it doesn't yet output 10-bit video. It looks like MadVR will output 10-bit, would be interested to hear your experience with it. I installed the latest beta of Kodi 17 to take advantage of hardware-accelerated HEVC; seems like I should downgrade to Kodi 16 with DSPlayer and attempt to use MadVR. I think this would also allow me to watch MKVs with a 3D MVC layer in Kodi (which currently I use MPC-HC w/ MadVR to watch). Seems like it would be worth the effort to test, anyway.

Where can I find the nvidia HDR demo?


----------



## avsjohn

To those current 5040/6040 owners, a couple of questions. 

Just digging through threads trying to decide on a poser 4k projector or wait a couple of years for a cheaper true 4k. Have a 5030 right now and very happy with it, but would love more detail and not see the pixels on my 120" screen.

Unlike most people, on the Epson I just love the FI setting, and keep it cranked to max, as to me it doesn't really have the extreme soap opera effect pop that flat panels do. And in movies and 3D it really makes a difference when smoothing out the fast action that looks really choppy at 24 fps.

I just wanted to confirm that the FI works the same on 1080 sources as the 5030 does, but on uhd/4k sources it only works on 24 fps material. And a 4k movie at 24 fps would have double the resolution as 1080 but also able to obtain the smoothing of the FI effect. Is this correct?

Secondly, if the FI doesn't work with 4k input at 60 fps such as Netflix, then does the 60 fps help smooth out the uhd picture enough at the higher resolution, effectively 'simulating' a FI setting and avoiding the chopiness of 24 fps?

I'm not that concerned about HDR right now, though it would be nice, so the throttled chips of the 5040 doesn't bother me too much. Yet. Would the 5040ube wireless with it's extra 10.x.x setting be worth the extra dough?

Finally, a couple of reviews say that there is virtually no cross talk in 3D. Those of you who have watched 3D have you seen any cross talk? Is it similar to the 5020/30 if you had one?

I guess that's it, thanks for any info!


----------



## dvdwilly3

spirithockey79 said:


> Can anyone explain the difference between Cinema and Digital Cinema? I read that digital cinema is similar to what a movie theater would project, but not sure exactly what that means. Also, I think Natural looks, well...more natural, but I've read posts recommending the cinema settings due to use of DCI P3. Is there that much of a difference in the color gamut? Is it a greater difference when viewing rec 709 v BT 2020?


FWIW, I believe that Digital Cinema is the only set that replicates the DCI P3 color space...the rest are BT2020 at best...

Sort of relative brightness...

I believe that these are from a calibrated unit...

Dynamic [email protected] Bright Cinema [email protected] Natural [email protected] Cinema [email protected] (High Bulb [email protected]) B&W Cinema [email protected] Digital Cinema [email protected]
I run mine on Natural for most things...still playing with the settings. I find Cinema a bit dim.

From Epson,

Available Color Modes
You can set the projector to use these Color Modes, depending on the input source you are using:
2D Images
*Color Mode Description*
Dynamic Best for projecting in a bright room
Natural Best for projecting in a dark room
Bright Cinema Best for projecting in a room with closed curtains
Cinema Best for projecting color movies in a dark room
B&W Cinema Best for projecting black and white movies in a dark room
Digital Cinema Projects using the same color spectrum as digital movie theaters
3D Images
Color Mode Description
3D Dynamic Best for projecting in a bright room
3D Cinema Best for projecting movies in a dark room

I hope that this helps...


----------



## spirithockey79

dvdwilly3 said:


> FWIW, I believe that Digital Cinema is the only set that replicates the DCI P3 color space...the rest are BT2020 at best...
> 
> Sort of relative brightness...
> 
> I believe that these are from a calibrated unit...
> 
> Dynamic [email protected] Bright Cinema [email protected] Natural [email protected] Cinema [email protected] (High Bulb [email protected]) B&W Cinema [email protected] Digital Cinema [email protected]
> I run mine on Natural for most things...still playing with the settings. I find Cinema a bit dim.
> 
> From Epson,
> 
> Available Color Modes
> You can set the projector to use these Color Modes, depending on the input source you are using:
> 2D Images
> *Color Mode Description*
> Dynamic Best for projecting in a bright room
> Natural Best for projecting in a dark room
> Bright Cinema Best for projecting in a room with closed curtains
> Cinema Best for projecting color movies in a dark room
> B&W Cinema Best for projecting black and white movies in a dark room
> Digital Cinema Projects using the same color spectrum as digital movie theaters
> 3D Images
> Color Mode Description
> 3D Dynamic Best for projecting in a bright room
> 3D Cinema Best for projecting movies in a dark room
> 
> I hope that this helps...




Yes, that's helpful, thanks. I did read the detail from Epson and recall seeing those cal numbers somewhere. So if I have a small, dark theater room that probably has 30fl even on ECO and -20 Iris setting I should be good with using digital cinema? Natural certainly is brighter in my room, and with the Cinema modes I still end up closing Iris to -10 or -15.


----------



## weboperations

Can someone with a 5040ub tell me the size of the lens in diameter? 

I'm building a pass through window between two walls for the projector to shine through, and need to know how large of an opening I need to make in the wall.

I was considering cutting a 9inch wide by 8inch tall square opening, but need to make sure that's large enough for the lens to easily project to the screeen. Thanks!


----------



## WynsWrld98

avsjohn said:


> To those current 5040/6040 owners, a couple of questions.
> 
> Just digging through threads trying to decide on a poser 4k projector or wait a couple of years for a cheaper true 4k. Have a 5030 right now and very happy with it, but would love more detail and not see the pixels on my 120" screen.
> 
> Unlike most people, on the Epson I just love the FI setting, and keep it cranked to max, as to me it doesn't really have the extreme soap opera effect pop that flat panels do. And in movies and 3D it really makes a difference when smoothing out the fast action that looks really choppy at 24 fps.
> 
> I just wanted to confirm that the FI works the same on 1080 sources as the 5030 does, but on uhd/4k sources it only works on 24 fps material. And a 4k movie at 24 fps would have double the resolution as 1080 but also able to obtain the smoothing of the FI effect. Is this correct?
> 
> Secondly, if the FI doesn't work with 4k input at 60 fps such as Netflix, then does the 60 fps help smooth out the uhd picture enough at the higher resolution, effectively 'simulating' a FI setting and avoiding the chopiness of 24 fps?
> 
> I'm not that concerned about HDR right now, though it would be nice, so the throttled chips of the 5040 doesn't bother me too much. Yet. Would the 5040ube wireless with it's extra 10.x.x setting be worth the extra dough?
> 
> Finally, a couple of reviews say that there is virtually no cross talk in 3D. Those of you who have watched 3D have you seen any cross talk? Is it similar to the 5020/30 if you had one?
> 
> I guess that's it, thanks for any info!


I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is Epson disables F.I. for ANY kind of 4K input signal, ANY, so whether it be coming from streaming or UHD, 24 or 60 fps, it locks F.I. out for 4K input signals.

I've read a lot of reviews and posts on the 5040 and take interest in what people say about its 3D since I like 3D but the conclusion I came to is it's about the same as the 5030 (which is what I own) that it does very good 3D but some 3D will set off some crosstalk. It's nice that Epson provides settings for 3D depth and brightness to be able to minimize ghosting but I usually push these settings pretty high and only adjust them while watching a 3D disc if the crosstalk appears pretty frequently. I love how bright the 5030 is with 3D.


----------



## techjoy

royboy365 said:


> I'm projecting 100" from 11' on my first screen and 150" from 25' on my second screen and both look excellent.
> 
> I find it interesting that you mention a sweet spot as I was always under the impression that the sweet spot was as close to the screen as possible to get the most amount of lumens on the screen. The distance you mentioned is only a foot away from the closest you can be for 100".


I've read it's best not to get too close to the lower or upper range of the throw limits of a projector because too close can create hotspots and too far the projector looses brightness. I guess it depends on the screen, the projector and the room. In my case, I'm considering an EPV DarkStar .9 or SI Black Diamond 1.4 100" ALR and was told getting too close to the lower range could worsen the cons associated with these screens; namely sparkles, hot spots, etc.. EPV claims the DarkStar does not sparkle, but I'm skeptical so I wanted to make sure.

I am still undecided about which projector to get. I saw the JVC RS400 and the 6040 at a Magnolia in Miami and both looked very good. Decisions decisions!!!


----------



## spirithockey79

techjoy said:


> I've read it's best not to get too close to the lower or upper range of the throw limits of a projector because too close can create hotspots and too far the projector looses brightness. I guess it depends on the screen, the projector and the room. In my case, I'm considering an EPV DarkStar .9 or SI Black Diamond 1.4 100" ALR and was told getting too close to the lower range could worsen the cons associated with these screens; namely sparkles, hot spots, etc.. EPV claims the DarkStar does not sparkle, but I'm skeptical so I wanted to make sure.
> 
> 
> 
> I am still undecided about which projector to get. I saw the JVC RS400 and the 6040 at a Magnolia in Miami and both looked very good. Decisions decisions!!!




I've read that as well. So far I haven't seen any issues and I'm at the LOWEST range! . I'm fully zoomed in and just have less than an inch of overlap on my screen borders.


----------



## Dandlj

techjoy said:


> I've read it's best not to get too close to the lower or upper range of the throw limits of a projector because too close can create hotspots and too far the projector looses brightness. I guess it depends on the screen, the projector and the room. In my case, I'm considering an EPV DarkStar .9 or SI Black Diamond 1.4 100" ALR and was told getting too close to the lower range could worsen the cons associated with these screens; namely sparkles, hot spots, etc.. EPV claims the DarkStar does not sparkle, but I'm skeptical so I wanted to make sure.
> 
> 
> 
> I am still undecided about which projector to get. I saw the JVC RS400 and the 6040 at a Magnolia in Miami and both looked very good. Decisions decisions!!!




That's what I'm deciding between as well.

I've seen both and the JVC definitely had better blacks, however, the eShift to my eye looked better on the Epson, and I'm concerned on game lag on the JVC


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chiltonj

avsjohn said:


> To those current 5040/6040 owners, a couple of questions.
> 
> Just digging through threads trying to decide on a poser 4k projector or wait a couple of years for a cheaper true 4k. Have a 5030 right now and very happy with it, but would love more detail and not see the pixels on my 120" screen.
> 
> Unlike most people, on the Epson I just love the FI setting, and keep it cranked to max, as to me it doesn't really have the extreme soap opera effect pop that flat panels do. And in movies and 3D it really makes a difference when smoothing out the fast action that looks really choppy at 24 fps.
> 
> I just wanted to confirm that the FI works the same on 1080 sources as the 5030 does, but on uhd/4k sources it only works on 24 fps material. And a 4k movie at 24 fps would have double the resolution as 1080 but also able to obtain the smoothing of the FI effect. Is this correct?
> 
> Secondly, if the FI doesn't work with 4k input at 60 fps such as Netflix, then does the 60 fps help smooth out the uhd picture enough at the higher resolution, effectively 'simulating' a FI setting and avoiding the chopiness of 24 fps?
> 
> I'm not that concerned about HDR right now, though it would be nice, so the throttled chips of the 5040 doesn't bother me too much. Yet. Would the 5040ube wireless with it's extra 10.x.x setting be worth the extra dough?
> 
> Finally, a couple of reviews say that there is virtually no cross talk in 3D. Those of you who have watched 3D have you seen any cross talk? Is it similar to the 5020/30 if you had one?
> 
> I guess that's it, thanks for any info!


I can let you know in about 2 weeks, going from the 6030 to 6040. I saw pixels on my old 120" screen (Elite screens) and it bothered the crap out of me especially on white scenes. Went to a Stewart 123" (cima I believe) and it made a huge difference. No pixels, very good image. So, not sure if it's just your screen. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Waikis

mhendu said:


> I use Kodi as my main player - it doesn't yet output 10-bit video. It looks like MadVR will output 10-bit, would be interested to hear your experience with it. I installed the latest beta of Kodi 17 to take advantage of hardware-accelerated HEVC; seems like I should downgrade to Kodi 16 with DSPlayer and attempt to use MadVR. I think this would also allow me to watch MKVs with a 3D MVC layer in Kodi (which currently I use MPC-HC w/ MadVR to watch). Seems like it would be worth the effort to test, anyway.
> 
> Where can I find the nvidia HDR demo?


go here 
https://developer.nvidia.com/hdr-display-sample


----------



## Ronman79

JewDaddy said:


> It's funny how we feel like oddballs when it's a feature that comes with tv's. Obviously it's there for a reason right?? Lol.
> 
> I'm not sure either why FI isn't available with 4K. Just seems like something they intentionally left out to make next years model a little more appealing to upgrade to. I had the 5020 and hated that FI wasnt avaiable in 3D. That's the reason I jumped to the 5030. Can't give us everything we want in a projector.
> 
> It's not that I prefer the SDR over HDR. I really like how HDR looks on this projector. The HDR looked phenomenal with the new XMEN Apocalypse. But after watching half of it in 4K HDR, I switched the player to 1080p with my settings and it looked just as good. One of the key things I found to make the colors pop and look very very saturated was changing to BT 2020. Yes at first it looks overblown, but after you tweak some settings, it looks amazing. Took me some time but I got it. I assume about 95% of the people on here would hate them, they look great to my eyes. I just wish there was a way to get 4K HDR with FI on this projector. I would pay for them to release an update that would allow for it to be used in 4K.


The oddball feel is because most of us techy, videophile types think it adds an unnatural look to film or movie content. It does. And, as far as it being on all tvs now, so the dynamic, fireball, supernova picture modes. They don't look as the director and video editors intended either. However, these different modes are there because we all have God-given free will and opinions as well! Lol... You should use what you like, and a display that has all these features is bound to have a combination of settings to please most anyone's eyes. With that said, I like FI on stuff like sports. Enjoy your preferences, and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ana_moo_ana said:


> installed my TW9300 today and dang I got visible purple dot that appear on white background. need to contact the retailer to figure this out, looks like more than one pixel.




anyone knows what is Epson policy toward stuck & dead pixels? I think this dot is 4 pixels, there is also a smaller one the other side.


----------



## avsjohn

ana_moo_ana said:


> anyone knows what is Epson policy toward stuck & dead pixels? I think this dot is 4 pixels, there is also a smaller one the other side.


This looks suspiciously like a dust blob, albeit a very small one.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

avsjohn said:


> This looks suspiciously like a dust blob, albeit a very small one.




this is worth the try! do I have to remove the bulb & maybe use air duster? also is there a way to open the automated lens cover while the projector is off?


----------



## avsjohn

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is Epson disables F.I. for ANY kind of 4K input signal, ANY, so whether it be coming from streaming or UHD, 24 or 60 fps, it locks F.I. out for 4K input signals.
> 
> I've read a lot of reviews and posts on the 5040 and take interest in what people say about its 3D since I like 3D but the conclusion I came to is it's about the same as the 5030 (which is what I own) that it does very good 3D but some 3D will set off some crosstalk......


Bummer on the FI, watching something move across the screen shaking like a leaf makes me barfy. The heck with the director's vision or a century old film format, silky smooth movement is reality to me. There's an Epson engineer who is obviously old school calling the shots. (or maybe it's money) Boo to both.

I have my 3D cranked pretty hard, not much point in watching it unless things do pop as much as possible. Maybe BenQ will pull a 4k surprise someday.


----------



## avsjohn

ana_moo_ana said:


> this is worth the try! do I have to remove the bulb & maybe use air duster? also is there a way to open the automated lens cover while the projector is off?


This gets scary real fast (taking apart and blowing stuff around) involving breaking things, voiding warranty, etc. 

Check this thread out, and maybe consider swapping the projector out first.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...red-lens-position-memory-96.html#post47346185


----------



## mydsouza

*Roku Ultra issue with Epson 6040UB - help*

I proudly upgraded my 6030 to a 6040 this weekend. So far impressed with the picture. However, I only have a Roku Ultra as a UHD source and am having trouble setting the Roku display type to 4K UHD HDR. Apparently my Roku tells me that the display does not report back as an HDR capable display, please consult TV settings to enable Deep COlor. I have all this interconnected via a Yamaha AVR 3050 which features both HDMI 2.0a inputs with HDCP 2.2. Is this a compatibilty issue. I just updated both Roku and Yamaha with the latest firmware updated. Please help!


----------



## gnolivos

mydsouza said:


> I proudly upgraded my 6030 to a 6040 this weekend. So far impressed with the picture. However, I only have a Roku Ultra as a UHD source and am having trouble setting the Roku display type to 4K UHD HDR. Apparently my Roku tells me that the display does not report back as an HDR capable display, please consult TV settings to enable Deep COlor. I have all this interconnected via a Yamaha AVR 3050 which features both HDMI 2.0a inputs with HDCP 2.2. Is this a compatibilty issue. I just updated both Roku and Yamaha with the latest firmware updated. Please help!




Connected to HDMI 1 port? Don't use port 2


----------



## MississippiMan

weboperations said:


> Can someone with a 5040ub tell me the size of the lens in diameter?
> 
> I'm building a pass through window between two walls for the projector to shine through, and need to know how large of an opening I need to make in the wall.
> 
> I was considering cutting a 9inch wide by 8inch tall square opening, but need to make sure that's large enough for the lens to easily project to the screen. Thanks!


The size opening your considering is more than adequate, *IF *the lens is not placed too far back from the opening. The closer it is, the smaller the opening can be. However circulation is an important fact to consider, and jamming the face of the PJ up too close to a solid surface can be detrimental.

Also, if you are inverting the PJ (...almost certainly so...), then placing the Lens top of center in the opening will give you more leeway for the projected beam to fan downward without the bottom edge of the opening cutting the beam. As far as the sides, 9" wide is a big opening, so I'd say the PJ could be placed a full_* 4" *_behind the opening if the Lens is precisely centered. 

More on the last point, when I've done "Pass Through Tunnels" and the wall was 1/2" Drywall or a 1/2" Plywood veneer, I simply made sure that the partition wall stayed as thin as possible to avoid the edge being too deep. I was /am always able to place the PJ at most back to the 3.5" depth of the wall Framing. Lastly, throw distance is very relevant to how wide the beam will be coming out of the Lens. (...and therein how far recessed the lens can be...) That might not be an issue with you since the very fact your going to shoot through a wall means the PJ is in the back of the room.


----------



## mydsouza

gnolivos said:


> Connected to HDMI 1 port? Don't use port 2




No it's on port 1.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

*On HDR.........*

As someone who was always a fan of HDR in 35 mm Photography, it was always well understood the primary purpose of HDR was improving Detail and Color saturation in darker / dark shots. It was never about using such for general, normal light photography.

Nothing has changed, and it seems that far too much emphasis is placed on HDR being an advantage in every type of content.

Myself, it was / is all about increasing the subtle detail and color/contrast in darker movie content. *And that is all.* As for the rest of the image improvement, I expect the overall performance envelope of the Projector...as well as the Screen to carry the rest of the weight.

That said, it was the odd, over-saturated Red and marked reduction in brightness in 1080p when BT2020-HDR1 was selected for 4K HDR that concerned me most. Seems counterproductive if the PJ cannot default to 1080p setting when a SUHD-HDR disc is not in play. Today will see the Firmware Upgrade on the Samsung downloaded, as well as a check against any upgrade potential on the 5040ube's Firmware. (...what is the most current version? )


----------



## ana_moo_ana

avsjohn said:


> This gets scary real fast (taking apart and blowing stuff around) involving breaking things, voiding warranty, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Check this thread out, and maybe consider swapping the projector out first.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...red-lens-position-memory-96.html#post47346185




thanks for the advice,, yep, will try to swap it for other projector, if not, will get a refund & buy it from another shop.


----------



## weboperations

MississippiMan said:


> weboperations said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone with a 5040ub tell me the size of the lens in diameter?
> 
> I'm building a pass through window between two walls for the projector to shine through, and need to know how large of an opening I need to make in the wall.
> 
> I was considering cutting a 9inch wide by 8inch tall square opening, but need to make sure that's large enough for the lens to easily project to the screen. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> The size opening your considering is more than adequate, *IF *the lens is not placed too far back from the opening. The closer it is, the smaller the opening can be. However circulation is an important fact to consider, and jamming the face of the PJ up too close to a solid surface can be detrimental.
> 
> Also, if you are inverting the PJ (...almost certainly so...), then placing the Lens top of center in the opening will give you more leeway for the projected beam to fan downward without the bottom edge of the opening cutting the beam. As far as the sides, 9" wide is a big opening, so I'd say the PJ could be placed a full_* 4" *_behind the opening if the Lens is precisely centered.
> 
> More on the last point, when I've done "Pass Through Tunnels" and the wall was 1/2" Drywall or a 1/2" Plywood veneer, I simply made sure that the partition wall stayed as thin as possible to avoid the edge being too deep. I was /am always able to place the PJ at most back to the 3.5" depth of the wall Framing. Lastly, throw distance is very relevant to how wide the beam will be coming out of the Lens. (...and therein how far recessed the lens can be...) That might not be an issue with you since the very fact your going to shoot through a wall means the PJ is in the back of the room.
Click to expand...

Ok great. Do you know the diameter of the lens on the 5040ub?


----------



## dvdwilly3

weboperations said:


> Ok great. Do you know the diameter of the lens on the 5040ub?


The lens opening itself is 4". The lens itself is slightly less.

The lens housing, the light gray outer ring is 6".

I went downstairs and measured it on my 6040UB.

Does that help?


----------



## dataJunkie

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm one of the oddballs that likes F.I. as well. I'd be curious why it isn't available with a 4K signal because as far as I know the JVC RS400 that has been out for over a year does offer F.I. with 4K signals.
> 
> If I recall correctly with the Epson 6010 F.I. wasn't available in 3D but when I upgraded to the 5030 it is available. I wonder if Epson will do the same thing in that it will be available in the 5050. I'm just curious why it isn't available with the 5040.
> 
> Based on your comments about preferring 1080p over 4K HDR on the Epson I wonder if you were to try a 4K UHD player like the upcoming Oppo 203 whereby supposedly you can keep 4K and the wide color but use SDR vs. HDR what you'd think of that. I read on the RS400 forum that some prefer SDR over HDR with UHD Blurays and are doing it using an HDFury Integral.


Oddball here too .. to the point that I've configured SVP to work with Jriver so all movies are displayed this way. And the difference with a 120" screen is awesome. I'm awaiting the arrival of a 6040UB, and am wondering how the projector will handle this.

If there is an image at 1080P @ 60Hz, will pixelshift be able to handle this up to it's 4K equivalent? It's something I'll be trying first thing once it arrives .. 

n


----------



## weboperations

dvdwilly3 said:


> weboperations said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok great. Do you know the diameter of the lens on the 5040ub?
> 
> 
> 
> The lens opening itself is 4". The lens itself is slightly less.
> 
> The lens housing, the light gray outer ring is 6".
> 
> I went downstairs and measured it on my 6040UB.
> 
> Does that help?
Click to expand...


Thanks!! Yes.


----------



## ndabunka

dataJunkie said:


> If there is an image at 1080P @ 60Hz, will pixelshift be able to handle this up to it's 4K equivalent? It's something I'll be trying first thing once it arrives ..
> 
> n


Yes


----------



## dataJunkie

ndabunka said:


> Yes


Awesome! Thanks for the info  Looking forward to delivery moreso now ...


----------



## ndabunka

dataJunkie said:


> Awesome! Thanks for the info  Looking forward to delivery moreso now ...


4K conversion/aka "Pixel Shifting" works on everything regardless of signalling frequency. It's the HDR stuff that is limited based on the higher frequencys.


----------



## cdelena

MississippiMan said:


> The size opening your considering is more than adequate, *IF *the lens is not placed too far back from the opening. The closer it is, the smaller the opening can be. However circulation is an important fact to consider, and jamming the face of the PJ up too close to a solid surface can be detrimental.
> 
> Also, if you are inverting the PJ (...almost certainly so...), then placing the Lens top of center in the opening will give you more leeway for the projected beam to fan downward without the bottom edge of the opening cutting the beam. As far as the sides, 9" wide is a big opening, so I'd say the PJ could be placed a full_* 4" *_behind the opening if the Lens is precisely centered.
> 
> More on the last point, when I've done "Pass Through Tunnels" and the wall was 1/2" Drywall or a 1/2" Plywood veneer, I simply made sure that the partition wall stayed as thin as possible to avoid the edge being too deep. I was /am always able to place the PJ at most back to the 3.5" depth of the wall Framing. Lastly, throw distance is very relevant to how wide the beam will be coming out of the Lens. (...and therein how far recessed the lens can be...) That might not be an issue with you since the very fact your going to shoot through a wall means the PJ is in the back of the room.


Yes, it will vary. My opening in a full thickness wall is 5X12. I did it years ago and it was as big as I could make it in the center of the back wall. It works for this projector (18' throw to 110" screen) with it set back ~4" but may have been more flexible if it was taller opening. Mine is upright on a platform in the room behind the theater.

I did have to add a small remote extender as the remote ports are behind the wall. Pushing it too close to the wall might impair air flow of the front exhaust vent.

After working a little to adjust the height of the projector to get the lens exactly centered I am very pleased with the result.


----------



## rp-knight

Where is the best place to buy a 6040ub? I whant the black color . the mount & spare bulb are a plus. I will install myself.


----------



## FSOL12

gnolivos said:


> Connected to HDMI 1 port? Don't use port 2


Is there any difference between them besides HDCP 2.2 copy protection?


----------



## gnolivos

FSOL12 said:


> Is there any difference between them besides HDCP 2.2 copy protection?




Yeah, one is left, the other right. 

Seriously, no other difference that I'm aware of.


----------



## dvdwilly3

weboperations said:


> Thanks!! Yes.


Something else that you should be aware of...the lens does not sit directly behind the lens door.

The lens is inset behind the lens door back into the body of the projector something like 2".

Just in case it matters...


----------



## dvdwilly3

rp-knight said:


> Where is the best place to buy a 6040ub? I whant the black color . the mount & spare bulb are a plus. I will install myself.


Where are you located?


----------



## evoZip

techjoy said:


> I've read it's best not to get too close to the lower or upper range of the throw limits of a projector because too close can create hotspots and too far the projector looses brightness. I guess it depends on the screen, the projector and the room. In my case, I'm considering an EPV DarkStar .9 or SI Black Diamond 1.4 100" ALR and was told getting too close to the lower range could worsen the cons associated with these screens; namely sparkles, hot spots, etc.. EPV claims the DarkStar does not sparkle, but I'm skeptical so I wanted to make sure.
> 
> I am still undecided about which projector to get. I saw the JVC RS400 and the 6040 at a Magnolia in Miami and both looked very good. Decisions decisions!!!


I'm looking at a throw of ~19'6", onto a 100" (Silver Ticket, 1.1) screen. Projector central calculator shows that will work...and Epson actually told me that would be fine for the 5030 as well...but do either of you think this will be of detriment to my viewing quality?


----------



## trainfan

evoZip said:


> I'm looking at a throw of ~19'6", onto a 100" (Silver Ticket, 1.1) screen. Projector central calculator shows that will work...and Epson actually told me that would be fine for the 5030 as well...but do either of you think this will be of detriment to my viewing quality?


Why are you having it so far away, 19'6" is quite aways for only a 100" screen, you will lose a lot of brightness


----------



## dvdwilly3

weboperations said:


> Thanks!! Yes.


I did another reply later, but it may only been to myself...

The lens itself sits about 2" behind the lens door (further into the projector body) if that impacts your calculations.

Well, actually it sits there whether it impacts your calculations or not...


----------



## evoZip

trainfan said:


> Why are you having it so far away, 19'6" is quite aways for only a 100" screen, you will lose a lot of brightness


Well, the space is 19'6 by 12'4...the smaller width wouldn't work for various reasons, so just dealing the hand I'm dealt really. I could POSSIBLY put ceiling mount (basement, 7'9" drop ceiling) but building a shelf for the components in the opposite wall seems like the best setup IMO.

Mentioned it's a basement, and no windows in the room it will be in, so totally light controlled...


----------



## casino187

rp-knight said:


> Where is the best place to buy a 6040ub? I whant the black color . the mount & spare bulb are a plus. I will install myself.


I'm also looking for a 6040ub where can I buy and/or get a good price? I'm in Northwest, AR 72704


----------



## Dws6

Hey guys, I am setting this 6040UB up in a room with a 10' ceiling. I want the bottom of a 16:9 120" screen to be about 23" off the floor. The calculation I ran on the lens adjustment says a 12" down pipe will work. Seems like a bit of a stretch so is someone willing to confirm calculations and suggest where I can get the extension pipe? Is it just 1 1/2" conduit? I don't have a way to thread it though if so, so I'm curious to what others are doing. My back wall is 181" away so a shelf would probably work fine too but requires a bit more work to construct. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

Dws6 said:


> Hey guys, I am setting this 6040UB up in a room with a 10' ceiling. I want the bottom of a 16:9 120" screen to be about 23" off the floor. The calculation I ran on the lens adjustment says a 12" down pipe will work. Seems like a bit of a stretch so is someone willing to confirm calculations and suggest where I can get the extension pipe? Is it just 1 1/2" conduit? I don't have a way to thread it though if so, so I'm curious to what others are doing. My back wall is 181" away so a shelf would probably work fine too but requires a bit more work to construct.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My projector is mounted 15'6" from my 120" diagonal 16:9 screen with a 9-foot tall (108") walls & the bottom of my screen is 27" from the floor. I am using a 18-inch downpipe on a Chief RPA mount with no need for keystone and the projector is still 12" over my head when standing up (I am 5'10" tall).

I was ALSO able to use a 6-inch downpipe that I had "left over" from my prior Sony VPL-HW50ES installation and while it would work, it seemed to also require a bit of keystone correction so I would expect that adding another 12" to the mounting posiiton would DEFINITELY require keystone correction on yours.

Why not simply do like I did and order the 18" just to be "safe"?


----------



## spirithockey79

Question for anyone running a Denon x4200 (or recent/similar model) with the 5040. In the Video/Output Settings there is an option for i/p scaler. When I turn this off, 1080p content is listed as 1080p in the pj info screen, and I'm able to turn on/off 4k enhancement and turn on/off FI. So far so good, I think. 

As is typical with new gear we like to mess around with all settings/tweaks so I decided to turn i/p scaling to HDMI (which is only other option than OFF). Then a few other options are available:. Resolution, Progressive Mode, and Aspect Ratio. The only one that really has relevance here to my question (I think), which I'll get to i promise, is the Resolution. You can choose several options but for my question I think just choosing Auto is fine (or forcing to 4k). Anyway, with HDMI set and Auto set, my 1080p content shows 3840x2160 and FI is greyed out, so can't choose it. That would lead me to believe that it might be best to leave i/p scaler to off, since FI should be an available option right? 

But I swear when I toggle back and forth on a Blu-ray I think the picture has more detail with i/p scaler turned on. This makes me ask the question, is the 4k enhancement not working when I have it set to off? I can't believe this is right since there is an option to turn 4k enhancement on in the pj settings. I apologize if this sounds like a newbie question as I don't consider myself that green when it comes to this stuff, but I'm starting to feel dumber with all this 4k, HDR, 4:4:4, etc talk and just want to make sure I have my AVR setup the right way for video. I would assume the best thing is to just pass-thru the signal and let the pj handle all the processing but not sure which is the right setting for this now since the picture does look "more enhanced" with the scaler set to HDMI. Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Additional info: running PS4 for Blu-ray, no 4k player yet. Video output settings on PS4 are all set to Automatic (Resolution, RGB Range, HDR, Deep Color Output)


----------



## terminal33

spirithockey79 said:


> Question for anyone running a Denon x4200 (or recent/similar model) with the 5040. In the Video/Output Settings there is an option for i/p scaler. When I turn this off, 1080p content is listed as 1080p in the pj info screen, and I'm able to turn on/off 4k enhancement and turn on/off FI. So far so good, I think.
> 
> As is typical with new gear we like to mess around with all settings/tweaks so I decided to turn i/p scaling to HDMI (which is only other option than OFF). Then a few other options are available:. Resolution, Progressive Mode, and Aspect Ratio. The only one that really has relevance here to my question (I think), which I'll get to i promise, is the Resolution. You can choose several options but for my question I think just choosing Auto is fine (or forcing to 4k). Anyway, with HDMI set and Auto set, my 1080p content shows 3840x2160 and FI is greyed out, so can't choose it. That would lead me to believe that it might be best to leave i/p scaler to off, since FI should be an available option right?
> 
> But I swear when I toggle back and forth on a Blu-ray I think the picture has more detail with i/p scaler turned on. This makes me ask the question, is the 4k enhancement not working when I have it set to off? I can't believe this is right since there is an option to turn 4k enhancement on in the pj settings. I apologize if this sounds like a newbie question as I don't consider myself that green when it comes to this stuff, but I'm starting to feel dumber with all this 4k, HDR, 4:4:4, etc talk and just want to make sure I have my AVR setup the right way for video. I would assume the best thing is to just pass-thru the signal and let the pj handle all the processing but not sure which is the right setting for this now since the picture does look "more enhanced" with the scaler set to HDMI. Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Additional info: running PS4 for Blu-ray, no 4k player yet. Video output settings on PS4 are all set to Automatic (Resolution, RGB Range, HDR, Deep Color Output)


I have the Denon X2300 and for Directv the picture looks best when set to "bypass" and just let the Epson do its thing. I haven't tried comparisons with blu ray. I just assumed "bypass" is best for all sources. But I'll try when I get home and see.


----------



## Dandlj

ndabunka said:


> My projector is mounted 15'6" from my 120" diagonal 16:9 screen with a 9-foot tall (108") walls & the bottom of my screen is 27" from the floor. I am using a 18-inch downpipe on a Chief RPA mount with no need for keystone and the projector is still 12" over my head when standing up (I am 5'10" tall).
> 
> 
> 
> I was ALSO able to use a 6-inch downpipe that I had "left over" from my prior Sony VPL-HW50ES installation and while it would work, it seemed to also require a bit of keystone correction so I would expect that adding another 12" to the mounting posiiton would DEFINITELY require keystone correction on yours.
> 
> 
> 
> Why not simply do like I did and order the 18" just to be "safe"?




It looks like you have a white ceiling. Does this create a noticeable degradation in the picture quality ?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## trainfan

evoZip said:


> Well, the space is 19'6 by 12'4...the smaller width wouldn't work for various reasons, so just dealing the hand I'm dealt really. I could POSSIBLY put ceiling mount (basement, 7'9" drop ceiling) but building a shelf for the components in the opposite wall seems like the best setup IMO.
> 
> Mentioned it's a basement, and no windows in the room it will be in, so totally light controlled...



My space is 30' x 15.5' Have the projector mounted 16' from screen to a 7' 6" ceiling. Edge of lens closest to ceiling is 5" from ceiling to closely match the top of the 120" screen which is 6" from ceiling .
(if your projector is mounted to the ceiling it will be inverted and you want it as close as parallel to the top edge of the screen, if you have it mounted right side up on a shelf than it should be as close to parallel to the bottom of the screen) otherwise you have to use adjustments to match up the projection. With a 100" screen and your ceiling height I would say mount to the ceiling about 13' to 14' from screen.


----------



## trainfan

Have my 5040UBE mounted and love the Blanking feature, being able to completely blank and blacken out the black bars when projection a 2:35 :1 image to a 16:9 screen is great, But cannot cannot find any way to save the blanking feature. Non of the memory settings save the settings. Is there a way to do this?


----------



## k3nnis

What is the blanking feature? Does it remove the black bars??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## trainfan

the blanking feature appears to close down the lens on the black bars, (whether it be top and bottom bars, or left and right bars) which makes them completely black, which looks fantastic, but you have to adjust them individually and they aren't part of the memory save feature. So if you go from a 2:35:1 movie to a 16:9 movie you have to go to the blanking setting and reset the top bar to default then the bottom bar to default. 
then to go back to a 2:35 ratio movie you have to go in and slowly adjust each black bar one at a time.


This should be a save-able feature either in picture memory or lens memory


----------



## spirithockey79

trainfan said:


> Have my 5040UBE mounted and love the Blanking feature, being able to completely blank and blacken out the black bars when projection a 2:35 :1 image to a 16:9 screen is great, But cannot cannot find any way to save the blanking feature. Non of the memory settings save the settings. Is there a way to do this?




I've been messing around with this as well. Although it doesn't look like you can save to lens memory or picture setting, it looks like it might be saving it by input source. I have a 2.35 screen and have blanking settings set when watching a Blu-ray from my PS4 (either for 1.78 or changing aspect ratios). I also have blanking settings (slightly different) when the Blu-ray movie is stopped and it shows the PS4 menu (since it's 1.78). No real need to do this but it looks nice having the PS4 menu fit my screen. When I change inputs like to DirecTV and then back it seems to keep the blanking settings (both when playing a Blu-ray and just on the PS4 menu). I believe these saved when I turned on my pj today, but will check tomorrow to make sure. Hope this helps.


----------



## k3nnis

Nice did not know it had this feature. So by using blanking is it pretty much as good as masking the screen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

Don't waste your time guys. The Blanking feature does NOT mask the projected image to a pure black. All it does is assign 'black pixels' to the masked region. It does not physically mask the light path. Trust me. We covered this earlier in the thread. The use of blanking is for other reasons. NOT to make black bars any blacker.


----------



## trainfan

gnolivos said:


> Don't waste your time guys. The Blanking feature does NOT mask the projected image to a pure black. All it does is assign 'black pixels' to the masked region. It does not physically mask the light path. Trust me. We covered this earlier in the thread. The use of masking is for other reasons. NOT to make black bars any blacker.



Well it does make my black bars look much blacker, and it looks fantastic


----------



## gnolivos

trainfan said:


> Well it does make my black bars look much blacker, and it looks fantastic




Hehe it's all in your head!


----------



## exm

gnolivos said:


> Yeah, one is left, the other right.
> 
> Seriously, no other difference that I'm aware of.


So we should use the copy protection HDMI port?


----------



## gnolivos

exm said:


> So we should use the copy protection HDMI port?




For true 4K feeds that are copy protected yes. That includes any UHD player, and some (if not all) streamers.


----------



## exm

gnolivos said:


> For true 4K feeds that are copy protected yes. That includes any UHD player, and some (if not all) streamers.


Right now I have a Marantz AV8801/Oppo 93. So that won't work. I plan to upgrade to the AV8802A/Oppo 203 so that will work. Correct?


----------



## rp-knight

dvdwilly3 said:


> Where are you located?


Northeast Ohio


----------



## trainfan

gnolivos said:


> Hehe it's all in your head!


Actually its all in my eyes, as I adjust the blanking area the bars go from a dark grey to a dark black. Even if it doesn't mask the screen it does make the black bars...... Black


----------



## James A. McGahee

At one time DirecTV Sat. listed 1080p projectors that were compatible. 
Does anyone have any idea if the 6040 4K will or should be compatible?


----------



## gnolivos

trainfan said:


> Actually its all in my eyes, as I adjust the blanking area the bars go from a dark grey to a dark black. Even if it doesn't mask the screen it does make the black bars...... Black




Ok I'm going to try to explain this. The Blanking masking is NOT affected by your brightness controls. So, in reality, if you see a difference in the black bars when Blanking it is because your brightness setting was wrong to begin with. You had grey bars to begin with because your brightness (black level) is set too high for your input signal. There could be several reasons for this. 

Think I'm wrong? Try this: set your brightness really high (70). Then mask the top only with Blanking option. Now decrease your brightness. See how the top masked area does not darken despite your brightness decrease? See how he bottom DOES?

Blanking simply assigns black pixels. Nice that it does so at their darkest possible level regardless of our brightness setting. But the point is, it is no different than setting your brightness correctly !


----------



## shepdog

Deleted


----------



## trainfan

gnolivos said:


> Ok I'm going to try to explain this. The Blanking masking is NOT affected by your brightness controls. So, in reality, if you see a difference in the black bars when Blanking it is because your brightness setting was wrong to begin with. You had grey bars to begin with because your brightness (black level) is set too high for your input signal. There could be several reasons for this.
> 
> Think I'm wrong? Try this: set your brightness really high (70). Then mask the top only with Blanking option. Now decrease your brightness. See how the top masked area does not darken despite your brightness decrease? See how he bottom DOES?
> 
> Blanking simply assigns black pixels. Nice that it does so at their darkest possible level regardless of our brightness setting. But the point is, it is no different than setting your brightness correctly !



Ok will check out my settings tomorrow.
If I can ask, when watching blu rays in a darkened room, what settings do you have on your projector?
Thanks
Would be great to get the same black levels without doing the blanking setting


----------



## dvdwilly3

rp-knight said:


> Northeast Ohio


Okay. If you were located in the northern Virginia/metro DC area, I had a place for you...


----------



## sddp

DanGraney said:


> I have some Xpand X105-RF-X1 glasses leftover from my Sony 40es, and can confirm that they pair easily and work! Should be able to find those fairly cheaply.


 I have these as well, would anyone recommend better 3D glasses or all they all the same as long as they are universal RF?
Since once you use active you loose about %15-%20 light


----------



## ndabunka

Dandlj said:


> It looks like you have a white ceiling. Does this create a noticeable degradation in the picture quality ?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My ceiling's are 108 inches high. A 16:9 image is 59" tall. The bottom of the image is 27" from the floor leaving approximately TWO FEET between the top of the screen and the ceiling so IMHO a white ceiling is not the "HUGE" deal that some make it out to be. If the image was closer than 2 feet it might be a bigger deal but in your case it sounds like it will be 3 feet from the ceiling.

Having said that I am planning on re-carpeting the room and will also likely re-paint the ceiling as well once we get everything else done. When I do repaint it I might as well go with a darker color but I don't think a completely black ceiling is attractive so it may be a dark blue or similar approach once it is all said and done.


----------



## Dws6

Yeah I don't think it will hurt your picture quality much but a dark ceiling eliminates reflective light which makes the room much darker. My whole room is a very dark gray and with nearly 200 watts of lighting it's still like night in there and I can't see crap. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dws6

I went to Home Depot tonight and found a 8" long 1 1/2" conduit nipple. Since I couldn't get the 12" I was looking for I bought a coupler too to join to the 6" it came with. At 14" downrod I should be good on the 10' ceiling. Fingers crossed the math is right. Thanks for the help. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jetts

dvdwilly3 said:


> Okay. If you were located in the northern Virginia/metro DC area, I had a place for you...


I live Virginia/metro DC area where can I buy the Epson 6040ub?

Thank you ,

jetts


----------



## ana_moo_ana

gnolivos said:


> For true 4K feeds that are copy protected yes. That includes any UHD player, and some (if not all) streamers.




but UHD disks should work fine on none HDCP2.2 port?


----------



## gnolivos

ana_moo_ana said:


> but UHD disks should work fine on none HDCP2.2 port?




??? My post was not clear I guess... it will not work on non 2.2 ports. Certainly not on 4K. Some players default to 1080 on such non 2.2 ports.


----------



## Dandlj

ndabunka said:


> My ceiling's are 108 inches high. A 16:9 image is 59" tall. The bottom of the image is 27" from the floor leaving approximately TWO FEET between the top of the screen and the ceiling so IMHO a white ceiling is not the "HUGE" deal that some make it out to be. If the image was closer than 2 feet it might be a bigger deal but in your case it sounds like it will be 3 feet from the ceiling.
> 
> 
> 
> Having said that I am planning on re-carpeting the room and will also likely re-paint the ceiling as well once we get everything else done. When I do repaint it I might as well go with a darker color but I don't think a completely black ceiling is attractive so it may be a dark blue or similar approach once it is all said and done.




Thanks very useful.

I've been told by my local HT store that putting in a bulkhead would help too ie the screen is recessed so won't get affected by the ceiling. Photo of the HT store demo room attached. Anyone got any views?




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

Dandlj said:


> Thanks very useful.
> 
> I've been told by my local HT store that putting in a bulkhead would help too ie the screen is recessed so won't get affected by the ceiling. Photo of the HT store demo room attached. Anyone got any views?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is actually TERRIBLE & would bother me to no end. It's actually the near opposite of what I outlined. Mine had the ceiling 2 feet away buffered by 24 inches of black fabric. The "bulkhead" shown here in this design (being only inches away from the screen) is a flaw as it creates what is almost a "HALO" of reflection within a few inches of the screen. bad, bad bad. NOT GOOD, DON'T do it kinda bad...

unless you can trim that "alcove" in a black felt that would absorb the reflected light.


----------



## rupedogg24

jetts said:


> I live Virginia/metro DC area where can I buy the Epson 6040ub?
> 
> Thank you ,
> 
> jetts


I live in DC as well. I bought from visual apex. Free 2 day shipping or pay $60 for overnight. Never had an issue with them.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## ana_moo_ana

gnolivos said:


> ??? My post was not clear I guess... it will not work on non 2.2 ports. Certainly not on 4K. Some players default to 1080 on such non 2.2 ports.




dang, thought 2.2 is a must for 4K streaming content only not UHD. In this case, the other port is pretty useless to me.


----------



## jamieuk147

I don't like the electric focus... Nothing better than fine tuning the lens via hand


----------



## dvdwilly3

jetts said:


> I live Virginia/metro DC area where can I buy the Epson 6040ub?
> 
> Thank you ,
> 
> jetts


I sent you a PM...

It is an outstanding projector!


----------



## rayrush!!!!

Anyone know of a ceiling bracket for the 6040 with 36cm height?


----------



## ndabunka

jetts said:


> I live Virginia/metro DC area where can I buy the Epson 6040ub?
> 
> Thank you ,
> 
> jetts


Not certain why all these people on here are pointing you to a reseller that is on the other side of the continent as a mail order as that was NOT what you asked for. Heck, I bought mine from Projector People which is about 1500 miles closer but never thought to offer them to you as an option for a local dealer that you were requesting.

So, try IQ Home Entertainment as they are located near you in Fairfax, Virginia. I beleive that they are an authorized dealer for Epson projectors. I bought other components recently from them and they are good folks
http://www.iq-av.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=6040


----------



## Colin Goddard

rp-knight said:


> Northeast Ohio


If your looking for a brick and mortar store that carries the 5040/6040...Sound & Vision store in the Akron/Cleveland area.. I bought my 6040 from here at AV Science Sales..Both places are authorized dealers..


----------



## techjoy

evoZip said:


> I'm looking at a throw of ~19'6", onto a 100" (Silver Ticket, 1.1) screen. Projector central calculator shows that will work...and Epson actually told me that would be fine for the 5030 as well...but do either of you think this will be of detriment to my viewing quality?


Evo, I have never owned a projector so take my feedback with a grain of salt. I believe the further you place a projector from a screen the less brightness it will project on said screen. Of course, if you are watching movies in total darkness it may not be that detrimental or noticeable, but with a smidgen of ambient light, you are more likely to notice it. I think for 100" projection screen, the sweet spot of the throw range is between 13'-14'; unfortunately I am unable to achieve it and at the lower end of the 5040's throw range (about 11'-8").


----------



## casino187

ndabunka said:


> Not certain why all these people on here are pointing you to a reseller that is on the other side of the continent as a mail order as that was NOT what you asked for. Heck, I bought mine from Projector People which is about 1500 miles closer but never thought to offer them to you as an option for a local dealer that you were requesting.


Online is fine with me. I'm not sure what I'm missing, but I can't find a 6040ub at Projector People, can you send a link please?

Update: I asked projector people and they do not sell the 6040ub, any other tips on where to buy one?


----------



## ndabunka

casino187 said:


> Online is fine with me. I'm not sure what I'm missing, but I can't find a 6040ub at Projector People, can you send a link please?
> 
> Update: I asked projector people and they do not sell the 6040ub, any other tips on where to buy one?


Odd that you are including my reply to a guy in DC that was in search of a local dealer in your post and, apparently, didn't even bother to contact the company that I referred him to consider as they ARE a 6040 reseller.

Let's face it, nobody pays me to refer them and lots of people have already posted lots of options on here already so no need for those to be repeated. Not certain why you might only be considering online resellers as it's not like any are offering significant discounts on a brand new, hot item like this projector anyway, right?


----------



## casino187

ndabunka said:


> Odd that you are including my reply to a guy in DC that was in search of a local dealer in your post. Nobody pays me to refer them and lots of people have already posted lots of options on here already so no need for those to be repeated but you could help yourself simply by going to Epson's site to see the authorized Epson dealers near you or simply buy it from Epson direct online. It's not like any of these dealers are offering significant discounts on a brand new, hot item like this projector anyway, right?
> 
> http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/jsp/EsHome.do


Maybe I'm confused, but you stated you bought a 6040ub from projector people, but they don't sell that model. I'm looking for an online place to buy the 6040ub black model. That is why I quoted you. I don't need it for a few more weeks, so I'll continue my search. The epson site isn't working for me right now, it's slow but I could never find an authorized dealer on there nor could I buy it online through them when I checked last. thank you.


----------



## chiltonj

6040 should only be available via authorized dealers or online via black market or something like ebay but it's too early I would think. Nope, just looked, take that back, there are some on ebay. Not sure that would be cool with Epson. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

casino187 said:


> Maybe I'm confused, but you stated you bought a 6040ub from projector people, but they don't sell that model. I'm looking for an online place to buy the 6040ub black model. That is why I quoted you. I don't need it for a few more weeks, so I'll continue my search. The epson site isn't working for me right now, it's slow but I could never find an authorized dealer on there nor could I buy it online through them when I checked last. thank you.


Understandable that you didn't catch all the alignments but they are there in that post.

The link I provided him was originally a link to a 5040 (that I have listed in my signature). You can see in the notes for edits that I "changed the link to reflect the 6040" that he was seeking. My use of the term "mine" was "my projector/Epson".

Although my original post did include a link to Epson proper I changed to point to an Epson's reseller so click on that one to find a 6040ub with immediate availablity (I believe)


----------



## jetts

dvdwilly3 said:


> I sent you a PM...
> 
> It is an outstanding projector!


Thank you all for your feedback and suggestions !


----------



## rayrush!!!!

I need some Installation help. Manual says to mount projector centre of lens 58cm on top of screen height but that means the 6040 will be mounted really low from my ceiling. If i mount it higher and adjust keystone etc do i lose Pic quality. Any help appreciated!


----------



## gnolivos

Keystone is a no no for most of us. Google it.


----------



## ndabunka

rayrush!!!! said:


> I need some Installation help. Manual says to mount projector centre of lens 58cm on top of screen height but that means the 6040 will be mounted really low from my ceiling. If i mount it higher and adjust keystone etc do i lose Pic quality. Any help appreciated!


How "small" is your screen? 58cm is nearly TWO FEET. So this is saying that your lens should be no more than 22.83 INCHES above the TOP of your screen. Most here have at LEAST a 100" screen and many have far larger ones but let's do the maths at the smaller 100" 16:9 diag which works out to 124.46cm/49 inches tall. You will most likely also want to have your screen mounted so that the bottom is from 2 to 3 feet off the floor (24inches/61cm to 36inches/91.44cm) off the floor. Even taking the lowest numbers here of 24" (bottom of screen) + the 49" (screen itself) + 22.83" (viable space obove screen not needing ketstone adjustment) you have a maximum height of 95.83 inches/243cm. That's EIGHT FEET in height. If you have a valuted ceiling you may need an extension bar coming down or you may also be able to mount it on a rear wall perhaps.

If worse comes to worse you can, OF COURSE, use Keystone correction. The "purest" here like to pride themselves on poo-pooing it  but hey, it's YOUR projector and keystone DOES work pretty darned effectively. Hey, I used it for over 12 years without it damaging my eye sockets!


----------



## aaranddeeman

rayrush!!!! said:


> Anyone know of a ceiling bracket for the 6040 with 36cm height?


Try Peerless PRG-EXA


----------



## trainfan

trainfan said:


> Ok will check out my settings tomorrow.
> If I can ask, when watching blu rays in a darkened room, what settings do you have on your projector?
> Thanks
> Would be great to get the same black levels without doing the blanking setting



Ok turned the brightness down tell the black bars (top and bottom) were black. Man the blacks in movies are SUPER Black. You really get detailed shadows. The brightness seems really low, but maybe need to adjust to watching the right conditions ?


----------



## gnolivos

trainfan said:


> Ok turned the brightness down tell the black bars (top and bottom) were black. Man the blacks in movies are SUPER Black. You really get detailed shadows. The brightness seems really low, but maybe need to adjust to watching the right conditions ?



Grab any recent Disney bluray and run through the WOW settings. It will help you calibrate brightness and contrast. In reality the 5040 has dead on brightness settings so you really should be at 50 or 49 or 51. Not more than that. I would be surprised if you had to go 30


----------



## ndabunka

rayrush!!!! said:


> Thanks for reply!
> Screen is 100inch
> Projector is 4.1 metres away from lens
> Screen is 61cm from floor
> Screen is 51.5cm from Ceiling
> Estimated projector mount bracket from ceiling height 36cm
> 
> I do wish to use a little if not any keystone if possible.
> Just think projector will look strange being so low...


I think you are getting confused on the numbers. A 36cm ceiling mount would not need any keystone based on your prior number ranges. If you wanted to you could use a 10cm ceiling mount and still not need keystone so not certain what we are missing here?

Based on the numbers you provided the height of your room is only 237cm tall in total height so it looks like you have pretty low ceilings for a current century home. A 36cm drop is not necessary. If the numbers you provided above are accurate you could actually mount your projector as high as you like in your room and still NEVER need the keystone feature. Heck, you may even be able to flush mount it to the ceiling if they make such a kit...


----------



## trainfan

gnolivos said:


> Grab any recent Disney bluray and run through the WOW settings. It will help you calibrate brightness and contrast. In reality the 5040 has dead on brightness settings so you really should be at 50 or 49 or 51. Not more than that. I would be surprised if you had to go 30



Now have brightness and contrast at 50, Have the Disney WOW disc, next step will be that calibration


----------



## gnolivos

trainfan said:


> Now have brightness and contrast at 50, Have the Disney WOW disc, next step will be that calibration




Where was your brightness level before? Surely above 50, which is why the blanking option was tricking you.


----------



## rayrush!!!!

Yes,didn't calculate properly. 
Was half asleep
Thanks for help!


----------



## evoZip

trainfan said:


> My space is 30' x 15.5' Have the projector mounted 16' from screen to a 7' 6" ceiling. Edge of lens closest to ceiling is 5" from ceiling to closely match the top of the 120" screen which is 6" from ceiling .
> (if your projector is mounted to the ceiling it will be inverted and you want it as close as parallel to the top edge of the screen, if you have it mounted right side up on a shelf than it should be as close to parallel to the bottom of the screen) otherwise you have to use adjustments to match up the projection. With a 100" screen and your ceiling height I would say mount to the ceiling about 13' to 14' from screen.


Thanks for the input. I'll have to check the ceiling situation this weekend.

I was assuming the 19'6 would be fine based on projector central calculator. Says 100" 1.1 at that distance can handle 7% ambient light, and 21-22 fL...moving to 13' only goes up to 9%, and 30 fL.

PC puts 
Also, while Epson doesn't have it listed on their calculator drop down, you can select the 5025/5030...and it gives a range of 9'9" to 20'10" for a 100" screen, not even accounting for the 1.1 gain.

You don't think that would be sufficient? 

Any one else throwing that far to a 100" screen?


----------



## McBadden

Regarding 3D on the 5040ub:

Hello fellow enthusiasts!

Tried 3D viewing tonight for the first time on my 5040 using Samsung SSG-5100GB 3D HD TV Active Glasses purchased off Amazon for a fraction of the cost of the official Epson branded glasses. Easy to pair but a few of the batteries were dead on arrival, so recommend purchasing extra batteries up front. Glad I did! 

My source material was IMAX: Under the Sea 3D. The results? Outstanding! As my kids and wife would attest. The iconic "cod scene" lived up to the hype, as did many others. Especially loved the snakes and cuddle fish. All images "popped" and totally lived up to or exceeded my expectations. I highly recommend this source as a reference for trying out 3D on your 5040/6040. 

The disc was played on an Xbox One S using the Epson factory defaults. 

I'm glad PJ manufacturers are not abandoning the 3D format like their TV little brothers.

Anyone had any experience with the 2D to 3D conversion feature? How does it work? Does it work? What does it do? What is the required source material? Is it worth my time and effort? Im sorry, I searched for this but really didn't come up with much relevant material. 

WPS!



Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

McBadden said:


> Regarding 3D on the 5040ub:
> 
> Hello fellow enthusiasts!
> 
> Tried 3D viewing tonight for the first time on my 5040 using Samsung SSG-5100GB 3D HD TV Active Glasses purchased off Amazon for a fraction of the cost of the official Epson branded glasses. Easy to pair but a few of the batteries were dead on arrival, so recommend purchasing extra batteries up front. Glad I did!
> 
> My source material was IMAX: Under the Sea 3D. The results? Outstanding! As my kids and wife would attest. The iconic "cod scene" lived up to the hype, as did many others. Especially loved the snakes and cuddle fish. All images "popped" and totally lived up to or exceeded my expectations. I highly recommend this source as a reference for trying out 3D on your 5040/6040.
> 
> The disc was played on an Xbox One S using the Epson factory defaults.
> 
> I'm glad PJ manufacturers are not abandoning the 3D format like their TV little brothers.
> 
> Anyone had any experience with the 2D to 3D conversion feature? How does it work? Does it work? What does it do? What is the required source material? Is it worth my time and effort? Im sorry, I searched for this but really didn't come up with much relevant material.
> 
> WPS!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


Good to hear that you enjoyed the 3D. The 2D conversion is a bit ..."different"... with this projector. Trying to display a 2D movie as 3D doesn't work if you select "3D" as that presents two images separated by about 20 inches rather then the more "normal" 3D separation. However, selecting AUTO on the same material allowed it to be shown in 3D on our most recent viewing of Big Hero 6 & The Golden Compass BluRay titles so it does work. It just takes an unusual way to get it to display a 2D image properly as a 3D representation.


----------



## WynsWrld98

McBadden said:


> Regarding 3D on the 5040ub:
> 
> Hello fellow enthusiasts!
> 
> Tried 3D viewing tonight for the first time on my 5040 using Samsung SSG-5100GB 3D HD TV Active Glasses purchased off Amazon for a fraction of the cost of the official Epson branded glasses. Easy to pair but a few of the batteries were dead on arrival, so recommend purchasing extra batteries up front. Glad I did!
> 
> My source material was IMAX: Under the Sea 3D. The results? Outstanding! As my kids and wife would attest. The iconic "cod scene" lived up to the hype, as did many others. Especially loved the snakes and cuddle fish. All images "popped" and totally lived up to or exceeded my expectations. I highly recommend this source as a reference for trying out 3D on your 5040/6040.
> 
> The disc was played on an Xbox One S using the Epson factory defaults.
> 
> I'm glad PJ manufacturers are not abandoning the 3D format like their TV little brothers.
> 
> Anyone had any experience with the 2D to 3D conversion feature? How does it work? Does it work? What does it do? What is the required source material? Is it worth my time and effort? Im sorry, I searched for this but really didn't come up with much relevant material.
> 
> WPS!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


Re: 2D to 3D conversion, have used it when I first bought my 5030, is interesting but not anything I'd use.


----------



## Dws6

Well the 14" drop rod I made from 1 1/2" conduit worked perfectly on my 10' ceiling. I could easily hit the 23" off the floor mark I was shooting for. I could easily shift it well onto the floor. Projector lens is mounted 13' from the screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## McBadden

ndabunka said:


> Good to hear that you enjoyed the 3D. The 2D conversion is a bit ..."different"... with this projector. Trying to display a 2D movie as 3D doesn't work if you select "3D" as that presents two images separated by about 20 inches rather then the more "normal" 3D separation. However, selecting AUTO on the same material allowed it to be shown in 3D on our most recent viewing of Big Hero 6 & The Golden Compass BluRay titles so it does work. It just takes an unusual way to get it to display a 2D image properly as a 3D representation.


Thank you for your input and experience. I didn't expect miraculous results from 2D to 3D conversion and it's helpful to hear about real world experience that reinforces my expectations. To me, 3D is more or less a fun alternative for select material. It definitely has a place in my family's video repertoire, but I am more interested in getting the best 2D image out of my equipment. Thought I would investigate 3D conversion, but if nothing more than a gimmick then I won't put much effort into it. 

WPS!

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## McBadden

WynsWrld98 said:


> Re: 2D to 3D conversion, have used it when I first bought my 5030, is interesting but not anything I'd use.


That seems to be consistent with what I'm hearing from others. Thanks!


----------



## gnolivos

Watched Cafe Society bluray. No significant 24p motion issues on this one. So I'm confused. . This movie has spectacular visual qualities.


----------



## dsewardj

Does anyone know how to display the current resolution and frame rate from this projector? My last projector would let you know the resolution and whether or not it was 60 fps (for PC gaming) or 24 for watching blu-rays.


----------



## dvdwilly3

dsewardj said:


> Does anyone know how to display the current resolution and frame rate from this projector? My last projector would let you know the resolution and whether or not it was 60 fps (for PC gaming) or 24 for watching blu-rays.


Go to Menu on the remote.
Then, go to Info next to the bottom in the left panel.
Click on Info.
Then, click on Projector Info.
That will give you complete information on the incoming signal and the way that it is being processed.


----------



## ac388

I got a bit confused when reading that 'Projector info'. Which part represent the incoming signal n which is the outgoing ?
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Dave Harper

nickoakdl said:


> Depends on your service. I use Comcast and football looks pretty crappy no matter what. Waaay too compressed.



Plus, they're now down converting almost all 1080i channels to 720p, then encoding them into h.264/mpeg4, which is an even more lossy format (although to be fair, does a much better job than mpeg2). 

"Xfinity......the future of awful!"
- "Con"cast

FYI, I've read this ENTIRE thread up until the post I've quoted above, and I still don't recall even one mention comparing the 5040/6040 to a Sony VPL-350ES (or 300ES European version) true 4K unit that doesn't have wide color gamut, nor HDR support. Seems each has a trade off and I'm wondering which is better in the end, the "faux-K" with HDR and Rec2020/P3-DCI or the true 4K high end machine without it? Anybody?

I finally just ordered the 5040UBe and a Philips 4K Bluray player (have a XBone S, but as mentioned no HDR), so I guess I'll see and compare them directly for myself come Monday night. 

Oh well......maybe they'll be something by the time I catch up to this post......back to my days and days of reading this thread until I catch up!


----------



## dsewardj

dvdwilly3 said:


> Go to Menu on the remote.
> Then, go to Info next to the bottom in the left panel.
> Click on Info.
> Then, click on Projector Info.
> That will give you complete information on the incoming signal and the way that it is being processed.


Thanks, I will give this a try when I get home!


----------



## ndabunka

KRGM1 said:


> LOL, such a simple fix. I thought this projector had both ports compliant. I've been trying to fix this for about an hour now. Thanks. Changed to 12 bit 4:2:2 BT 2020 and HDR2, and of course 3840 x 2160.


It's not listed in your signature so which UHD player are you using? I believe that the Samsung still has issues so that is likely not the one. I am thinking about picking up the Phillips so wanting to know if you also are using it or are you using the much more expensive Panasonic?


----------



## ndabunka

aaranddeeman said:


> I remember reading that you should use HDR1 preset than HDR2


Where is this "preset"? In the projector or in the player? If player then I assume this is related only to the Samsung player? Did this ever get resolved on the Sammy or are people still having issues with dim illumination on the Sammy running HDR2?


----------



## terminal33

ndabunka said:


> Where is this "preset"? In the projector or in the player? If player then I assume this is related only to the Samsung player? Did this ever get resolved on the Sammy or are people still having issues with dim illumination on the Sammy running HDR2?


It's in the Epson.


----------



## gnolivos

Guys I noticed something. If you create a custom setting, it doesn't look like the RGBCMY custom values are saved. Are they? It appears that is a global setting not overridden by memories. 

This I noticed because when selecting one of he default image settings (BRIGHT CINEMA) the RGBCMY settings were not defaulted to zero.


----------



## cheesenbizkitz

So after hearing about the new firmware update, I went out and bought the Samsung UBD-K8500, and WOW!

Without even getting into actually being able to display BT.2020 and HDR now, it completely eliminated the 419.6hz loud buzz/hum that was coming from the projector! The projector is ridiculously quiet now when I use this player. It must be because the menus run at 50hz. My Xbox One S runs at 60hz all the time, on the menus and when watching Netflix, so I was constantly getting that annoying noise that's present at 60hz. This player is pretty much always at either 50hz for the menus or 24hz for blu-rays or streaming video. The only time that the noise came back was when I tried a 60fps youtube video and the player switched to 60hz.

I watched Pacific Rim in 4K HDR last night and it looked pretty damn good! This projector paired with this player has now made me consider this as a good investment again, after the annoying sound and HDR issues I was starting to get worried.


----------



## Alad

1. So can anyone now confirm without a doubt that the lastest update from Samsung has in fact made it so that the 5040ub can now display the HDR capabilities of the Samsung UBD-K8500????

2. What's the latest on the apps on the Samsung (Netflix, Amazon, Youtube) when it comes to 4k AND HDR?


----------



## Dave Harper

ndabunka said:


> What logic makes you think wireless would induce a delay?



The modulation of the data onto the wireless RF carrier in the transmitter, and then the demodulation on the receiver end. These steps aren't there when using wired.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

I spent about 30 hours with my TW-9300 (6040UB) after 5 years with JVC RS40 and here is my first impression. 
I use medium lamp mode, bright cinema with image preset 4. Screen is Da-Lite 114” with 1.3 gain and using Philips UHD player. 
I used Lucy and TMNT2 to test the 4K and HDR (was set to HDR1) and it looked gorgeous, was afraid that the picture won’t be bright but with my setup and projector settings this was bright enough to make the picture pop. I think the improvements over regular blurays are about 30%, for the ones I tested at least. 4K streaming (with no HDR) looked awesome, I played few episodes of Luke Cage and the improvements over the HD is clear. I just wish I don’t have to switch to HDR1 then back to auto every time, it should default to SDR when non HDR material is played. 
Played some scenes from Avatar to test the 3D and it looked great. Later I played the Nightmare Before Christmas, I noticed minor ghosting in very few scenes but overall it was nice. 
Played some games on PS4, picture is crisp and colorful! planning to get Gears of Wars 4 on Xbox and give it a try. 
Normal bluray disks didn’t look better than this. Overall, I think this is an improvements over my old setup in every category (except for the fan noise) and very pleased with the purchase. 

I have a question regarding the 4K enhancements. The Philips is sending 4K output even for the bluray disks which makes that option for the 4K enhancement shaded in the Epson. Is it safe to assume that the Epson is getting that signal and already doing the 4K enhancement on it?


----------



## k3nnis

Hi anamooana, thanks for the feedback. How is the black level of the Epson compared to your jvc? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ana_moo_ana

k3nnis said:


> Hi anamooana, thanks for the feedback. How is the black level of the Epson compared to your jvc?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I didnt find any lack of black level, it looked as deep as my 5 year old JVC,, I might not be that picky though or it's very hard to tell without them side by side. here are some mobile pics.


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks looks good. Have you got pics of your old jvc? Or have you sold it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

canillo said:


> Ok..this will sound silly..but has anyone had the idea of having 2 epsons 5040ub creating one single image. That way we would be able to double the lumens and create the ultimate bright image for an HDR viewing? I work for Cirque du soleil and we use 4 projector per image , because the amount of brighness we need on those images. I guess it would be tricky to match and align the pixels but if it works I think $6,000 for a 5,000 lumens 4k HDR is not bad. Would this make any other improvements aditional to more light output? anyone has done this before?



It's called projector stacking and we do it in commercial and performance type settings all the time, as you're aware. 

If I recall, member Art Sonneborn has done these a lot in a home type setting. Maybe search some of his posts and threads, mainly in the $3,000+ projector forum. 

I used to do it a few times with the old 3 gun CRT projectors with very nice results but it's a LOT of work! I've never tried with a digital projector, but maybe I'll try it with our ISF demo Sony VPL-VW350ES (for sale here) and the 5040UBe when it arrives Monday, just for sh*ts and giggles! 



dvdwilly3 said:


> FWIW, I believe that Digital Cinema is the only set that replicates the DCI P3 color space...the rest are BT2020 at best......



Well, considering rec.2020 is a wider and better color space than DCI-P3, that's not saying much.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

k3nnis said:


> Thanks looks good. Have you got pics of your old jvc? Or have you sold it?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




after 4 replacement bulbs & broken IR transmitter, the old projector finally gave in and stop working all together. It has some issue with the optical block.


----------



## k3nnis

Oh ok. I guess 5 years is long enough


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mase1981

Hi Guys, 
so had the 6040UB for 2 weeks now.
Very happy with it.
I am waiting for @DroptheRemote to come do a professional ISF calibration in a month from now (waiting for some lamp hours and his availability). 
I wanted to give 3 shout outs: 
1. Mike @avsmike from AVS for getting me the 6040UB in a blazing fast shipping. He made sure i get it i think one of the first people ever, the second they were able to ship it he sent it 2 days shipping the same day. i got it right on time for the weekend. It came with a Chief mount and everything that is needed in a VERY well packed box. So, thank you.
2. My second shout out is for @DroptheRemote , Doug from clearlyresolved Pro ISF Calibration. Even though i have yet to do my calibration but Doug is the most professional, respectful and genuinely honest guy i ever had the chance to buy a service from. I cant tell you enough how much time he spent explaining in deep details everything i wanted to know, learn and with the utmost respect towards my needs and requirements. Seriously, just PM this guy and you will see what i am talking about. i have 100% confident he will do a fantastic job next month when he will come to my house. 
3. My 3rd and last shoutout is to all of you (us) on this forum, the users. You guys are pure geniuses.... Thank you all for those who answered the million questions, the suggestions, the tests yo did and the information provided. Thank you guys ! Stay awesome !!

And Now, just wanted to share my setup, i am pretty excited and happy with the outcome and wanted to share


----------



## dataJunkie

mase1981 said:


> Hi Guys,
> so had the 6040UB for 2 weeks now.
> Very happy with it.
> I am waiting for @DroptheRemote to come do a professional ISF calibration in a month from now (waiting for some lamp hours and his availability).
> I wanted to give 3 shout outs:
> 1. Mike @avsmike from AVS for getting me the 6040UB in a blazing fast shipping. He made sure i get it i think one of the first people ever, the second they were able to ship it he sent it 2 days shipping the same day. i got it right on time for the weekend. It came with a Chief mount and everything that is needed in a VERY well packed box. So, thank you.
> 2. My second shout out is for @DroptheRemote , Doug from clearlyresolved Pro ISF Calibration. Even though i have yet to do my calibration but Doug is the most professional, respectful and genuinely honest guy i ever had the chance to buy a service from. I cant tell you enough how much time he spent explaining in deep details everything i wanted to know, learn and with the utmost respect towards my needs and requirements. Seriously, just PM this guy and you will see what i am talking about. i have 100% confident he will do a fantastic job next month when he will come to my house.
> 3. My 3rd and last shoutout is to all of you (us) on this forum, the users. You guys are pure geniuses.... Thank you all for those who answered the million questions, the suggestions, the tests yo did and the information provided. Thank you guys ! Stay awesome !!
> 
> And Now, just wanted to share my setup, i am pretty excited and happy with the outcome and wanted to share


Awesome Setup! Can I ask what ceiling mount you are using?


----------



## mase1981

dataJunkie said:


> Awesome Setup! Can I ask what ceiling mount you are using?


The mount that came with the projector was Chief RPA Elite Universal
Sadly it only came with a 6 Inch Rod, which in my specific setup it wasnt enough. i needed 27"... and the 27" are really expensive plus there was no way i would get them in time. 
So i went to Lowes and got this Rod, they have it in black and in all sorts of length. So i got 1 that was the biggest and also took an adapter and hooked them both together. i painted it rugged textured black which a spray can Lowes had (the color and texture were a perfect match). And it turned out perfect. 

Last thing i had to do, because my specific ceiling where the projector needed to be in according to the calculations without the need to use any keystone i had to have it on the area where i have a slope. So i had to also get this bracket.


----------



## ndabunka

*As posted in the Oppo 203 Anticipation thread...
*


claw said:


> ...The hope is that the Oppo player will have an option to turn off HDR but keep BT.2020. There are projectors/TVs that support BT.2020 but not HDR. This option would allow them to utilize the wide color gamut of BT.2020.


Older projectors have this restriction but I don't think it is applicable to our 5040ubs as this unit supports both BT.2020 and HDR, correct?



claw said:


> There are also projectors that do not handle the current grading of HDR very well and this option would benefit them in the same way.


Based on these details above, do any 5040ub owners actually NEED the Oppo 203 or is this just a buy Oppo 203 simply because.... it's the newest thing out there?


----------



## ClemsonJeeper

Does anyone know if there are discrete codes for Lens Memory 3 - 10? If so got a link?


----------



## Ronman79

mase1981 said:


> Hi Guys,
> so had the 6040UB for 2 weeks now.
> Very happy with it.
> I am waiting for @DroptheRemote to come do a professional ISF calibration in a month from now (waiting for some lamp hours and his availability).
> I wanted to give 3 shout outs:
> 1. Mike @avsmike from AVS for getting me the 6040UB in a blazing fast shipping. He made sure i get it i think one of the first people ever, the second they were able to ship it he sent it 2 days shipping the same day. i got it right on time for the weekend. It came with a Chief mount and everything that is needed in a VERY well packed box. So, thank you.
> 2. My second shout out is for @DroptheRemote , Doug from clearlyresolved Pro ISF Calibration. Even though i have yet to do my calibration but Doug is the most professional, respectful and genuinely honest guy i ever had the chance to buy a service from. I cant tell you enough how much time he spent explaining in deep details everything i wanted to know, learn and with the utmost respect towards my needs and requirements. Seriously, just PM this guy and you will see what i am talking about. i have 100% confident he will do a fantastic job next month when he will come to my house.
> 3. My 3rd and last shoutout is to all of you (us) on this forum, the users. You guys are pure geniuses.... Thank you all for those who answered the million questions, the suggestions, the tests yo did and the information provided. Thank you guys ! Stay awesome !!
> 
> And Now, just wanted to share my setup, i am pretty excited and happy with the outcome and wanted to share
> ]


Wow, Mase....really cool setup, and congratulations!!! Hope to see more soon!

RM


----------



## gnolivos

The aspect ratio options are always greyed out for me over HDMI. Why?! My older projectors allowed for this. Useful for certain TV channels.


----------



## Ronman79

ndabunka said:


> *As posted in the Oppo 203 Anticipation thread...
> *
> Older projectors have this restriction but I don't think it is applicable to our 5040ubs as this unit supports both BT.2020 and HDR, correct?
> 
> 
> Based on these details above, do any 5040ub owners actually NEED the Oppo 203 or is this just a buy Oppo 203 simply because.... it's the newest thing out there?


I saw this too over on the OPPO thread. I'd have to say that the option being there would be nice. 

From multiple opinions, even though the Epson AND the JVCs "support" HDR, many believe that it's not properly done with the limited light output of current projectors.

However, with the wider color gamut in place, but the HDR flag removed, some are enjoying great color depth/range, and without the dimming factor of HDR....


RM


----------



## spirithockey79

mase1981 said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> so had the 6040UB for 2 weeks now.
> 
> Very happy with it.
> 
> I am waiting for @DroptheRemote to come do a professional ISF calibration in a month from now (waiting for some lamp hours and his availability).
> 
> I wanted to give 3 shout outs:
> 
> 1. Mike @avsmike from AVS for getting me the 6040UB in a blazing fast shipping. He made sure i get it i think one of the first people ever, the second they were able to ship it he sent it 2 days shipping the same day. i got it right on time for the weekend. It came with a Chief mount and everything that is needed in a VERY well packed box. So, thank you.
> 
> 2. My second shout out is for @DroptheRemote , Doug from clearlyresolved Pro ISF Calibration. Even though i have yet to do my calibration but Doug is the most professional, respectful and genuinely honest guy i ever had the chance to buy a service from. I cant tell you enough how much time he spent explaining in deep details everything i wanted to know, learn and with the utmost respect towards my needs and requirements. Seriously, just PM this guy and you will see what i am talking about. i have 100% confident he will do a fantastic job next month when he will come to my house.
> 
> 3. My 3rd and last shoutout is to all of you (us) on this forum, the users. You guys are pure geniuses.... Thank you all for those who answered the million questions, the suggestions, the tests yo did and the information provided. Thank you guys ! Stay awesome !!
> 
> 
> 
> And Now, just wanted to share my setup, i am pretty excited and happy with the outcome and wanted to share




Wholeheartedly agree about Doug. I used him last year to calibrate my 5010. Let me know if you end up calibrating yours as I'd like to know how it turned out.. BTW, he's doing some discounts for previous customers in October.


----------



## ndabunka

BmanAVS said:


> Update on below after I did some more testing.
> 
> 1. Ultra HD BD disc (Deadpool) in Samsung K8500 is extremely dark when playing but shows the following:
> 1920x1080
> 24Hz
> Color Depth 10 bit 4:4:4 - Could get this to 12 bit if I chose samsung Deep color but still horribly dark image
> BT.709 HDR2


It appears that you may not have applied the Samsung patch or that it failed as the Epsone WILL convert the 10-bit 4:4:4 to 10-bit 4:2:2 which IS compliant but, of course the Samsung flaw was previously preventing proper operation.



BmanAVS said:


> 2. When I stop the playback and go to main menu (Samsung
> 3. When I put the Regular BluRay (Deadpool) in I get the same


Nothing else matters if you don't correctly apply the Samsung patch. The above is a KNOWN issue.



BmanAVS said:


> 4. When I put the UHD BD (Deadpool) in the XB1S I get the following:


There are known issues with XB1S that Microsoft that yet to even bothered to address.



BmanAVS said:


> Frustrating. Finally found the HDR modes thanks to continued reading and playing. Again, any ideas why just the UHD playback fails over to HD while other content including Youtube from the Samsung plays in 4k 4.2.0?


The samsung is SUPPOSE to change to those 8-bit 4K 4:2:0 because it is DESIGNED to and that is NORMAL operation.


----------



## ndabunka

Ronman79 said:


> I saw this too over on the OPPO thread. I'd have to say that the option being there would be nice.
> 
> From multiple opinions, even though the Epson AND the JVCs "support" HDR, many believe that it's not properly done with the limited light output of current projectors.
> 
> However, with the wider color gamut in place, but the HDR flag removed, some are enjoying great color depth/range, and without the dimming factor of HDR....
> 
> RM


I understand that the HDR removed can give us more options. The question is "is that necessary" in a chain with a 5040 that has a compliant UHD BD player (like the Panasonic and/or Phillips & even possibly with the Samsung once the patch has been applied)? Can't we already watch HDR BT.2020 with "typical" projector brightness?

I am getting tired of waiting for Oppo's 203 and am thinking of jumping off that bandwagon and picking up a Phillips UHD for about $200 and am wondering if I NEED any of the compromises that the Oppo provides or not


----------



## Ronman79

ndabunka said:


> I understand that the HDR removed can give us more options. The question is "is that necessary" in a chain with a 5040 that has a compliant UHD BD player (like the Panasonic and/or Phillips & even possibly with the Samsung once the patch has been applied)? Can't we already watch HDR BT.2020 with "typical" projector brightness?
> 
> I am getting tired of waiting for Oppo's 203 and am thinking of jumping off that bandwagon and picking up a Phillips UHD for about $200 and am wondering if I NEED any of the compromises that the Oppo provides or not


As so many of the people are doing with the FURY, getting the wider color palette of WCG, but not the dimming of HDR (using a display like current projectors that don't output even NEARLY as much light as a full array locally back-lit LCD flat panel), this is an "option" that many would say looks better. That would be why, and I'm waiting to see...

Just because the Epson can do WCG and HDR doesn't mean that it looks better. We'll see.


----------



## ndabunka

Ronman79 said:


> As so many of the people are doing with the FURY, getting the wider color palette of WCG, but not the dimming of HDR (using a display like current projectors that don't output even NEARLY as much light as a full array locally back-lit LCD flat panel), this is an "option" that many would say looks better. That would be why, and I'm waiting to see...


I know that people with other projectors are getting the Fury so that they can strip it but, if I understand correctly, we don't NEED to strip in order to get the image as the 5040 can accept it as is. I have no plans to pick up a Fury so for me this is a straight either/or decision..Phillips UHD today or Oppo 203 tomorrow for $300 more. The price is not a driving factor. The driving factor is that I have now gone without UHD for alomst two months waiting on the Oppo 203.



Ronman79 said:


> Just because the Epson can do WCG and HDR doesn't mean that it looks better.


Ah! I had thought that others had been successfull getting bright (enough) images with the 5040, BT.2020 & HDR turned on (they just had to use the HDR2 parameter). Perhaps that HDR2 was changing the color gammut to BT.709 rather than BT.2020 in order to get the brightness up. Do you know if that was the case?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

I guess it really comes down to your setting & your screen size. For my 1.3 114" screen, HDR1 is bright enough (using bright cinema mode). Anything other than HDR1 is dim though.


----------



## Ronman79

@ndabunka,

Honestly, I don't know for sure. I know that people are using Bright Cinema a lot, and that apparently the wider color gamut isn't even displayed with that setting, so....

IF you can output WCG and forgo HDR, it MIGHT make for a more enjoyable picture using these more mainstream projectors (and not a $35,000 light cannon top of the line home pro). Waiting to see what it brings....

Now, if I'm in your shoes (I don't have the projector yet; my timeline is about Feb. Researching, and getting my ducks, and $, in a row), I can see the dilemma...I'd be Jonsin' too...


----------



## ndabunka

ana_moo_ana said:


> I guess it really comes down to your setting & your screen size. For my 1.3 114" screen, HDR1 is bright enough (using bright cinema mode). Anything other than HDR1 is dim though.


Could you capture your INFO screen? If I understand correctly you may not be getting BT.2020 with bright cinema, right?


----------



## Dave Harper

Ronman79 said:


> I saw this too over on the OPPO thread. I'd have to say that the option being there would be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> From multiple opinions, even though the Epson AND the JVCs "support" HDR, many believe that it's not properly done with the limited light output of current projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> However, with the wider color gamut in place, but the HDR flag removed, some are enjoying great color depth/range, and without the dimming factor of HDR....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RM






ndabunka said:


> *As posted in the Oppo 203 Anticipation thread...
> 
> *
> 
> Older projectors have this restriction but I don't think it is applicable to our 5040ubs as this unit supports both BT.2020 and HDR, correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on these details above, do any 5040ub owners actually NEED the Oppo 203 or is this just a buy Oppo 203 simply because.... it's the newest thing out there?






Ronman79 said:


> As so many of the people are doing with the FURY, getting the wider color palette of WCG, but not the dimming of HDR (using a display like current projectors that don't output even NEARLY as much light as a full array locally back-lit LCD flat panel), this is an "option" that many would say looks better. That would be why, and I'm waiting to see...
> 
> 
> 
> Just because the Epson can do WCG and HDR doesn't mean that it looks better. We'll see.




Yes, these answers are the "why". Because most, if not all midrange projectors for the home like the Epsons and JVC and Sonys just don't have the lumens punch to display HDR the way it should look, like a lot of flat panels can with enough nits of brightness.


----------



## spirithockey79

Is no one else having issues with their 5040 freezing when changing between memory slots? This happens intermittently and there doesn't seem to be a pattern nor can I can consistently duplicate, but it just happened again. Screen goes dark, PJ still on but unresponsive to remote or PJ menu so have to unplug. It seems like once I'm on an input I can change back and forth between memories no problem. But if I change inputs, the initial screen will usually come up fine, but if I change to a different memory it tends to freeze. I think someone else had this issue as well an opened a ticket with Epson, but interested if anyone else has. Trying to determine if this is widespread or a couple bad units.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ndabunka said:


> Could you capture your INFO screen? If I understand correctly you may not be getting BT.2020 with bright cinema, right?




getting BT.2022 with bright cinema. Im using TW-9300, not sure if it's any difference than the 5040UB (it shouldn't)


----------



## gnolivos

spirithockey79 said:


> Is no one else having issues with their 5040 freezing when changing between memory slots? This happens intermittently and there doesn't seem to be a pattern nor can I can consistently duplicate, but it just happened again. Screen goes dark, PJ still on but unresponsive to remote or PJ menu so have to unplug. It seems like once I'm on an input I can change back and forth between memories no problem. But if I change inputs, the initial screen will usually come up fine, but if I change to a different memory it tends to freeze. I think someone else had this issue as well an opened a ticket with Epson, but interested if anyone else has. Trying to determine if this is widespread or a couple bad units.




I think I commented before but just in case here goes. I've had this exact same issue. Epson sent me a second unit and that one had the same problem. I suspect it is widespread. Probably people aren't switching often enough between memory slots to notice. It happens to me once every 100 times or so. 

I opened a ticket with Epson and they are well aware of this issue.


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> I think I commented before but just in case here goes. I've had this exact same issue. Epson sent me a second unit and that one had the same problem. I suspect it is widespread. Probably people aren't switching often enough between memory slots to notice. It happens to me once every 100 times or so.
> 
> I opened a ticket with Epson and they are well aware of this issue.




Yep, you were the person I was referring to I just couldn't remember your user name when I was typing 

I talked with Rich at Epson and gave him one of your ticket numbers. He said he talked to you and he indicated the same thing that you just said, that it happens every 100 times or so. However he told me that he thought your issue was fixed by updating the firmware. 

My issue happens everytime I have my PJ on it seems, meaning that if I'm messing around with tweaking during a 3-4 hour "session" it will happen a couple times. I think I found a workaround though...if after I change inputs I make a change via color mode first, then freely change loading memories it doesn't seem to happen. At least not yet. It would be nice if others experience this even once in awhile to contact Epson. Not sure I want to do an exchange if your still having the issue on your replacement.


----------



## ndabunka

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, these answers are the "why". Because most, if not all midrange projectors for the home like the Epsons and JVC and Sonys just don't have the lumens punch to display HDR the way it should look, like a lot of flat panels can with enough nits of brightness.


Dave - I appreciate your experience but simply stripping HDR and allowing BT.2020 might provide greater brightness but it's still not going to come ANYWHERE close to the specs, right?

We know that non-5040/6040 users need it for the reasons quoted above.

However, other 5040/6040 owners have posted that they can already play the BT.2020 and HDR and get decent brightness on the 5040/6040 platofrms simply by changing the HDR paramter to HDR2. If that all works with sufficent brightness on the 5040ub without the need to strip the HDR then ... we don't really actually NEED the Oppo's HDR stripping utility but perhaps there is another reason, unknown to me, that might warrant the 203 for those of us in this thread (e.g. 5040/6040 owners). If so, I would love to hear them


----------



## ndabunka

ana_moo_ana said:


> getting BT.2022 with bright cinema.


Thank You VERY MUCH!
This CONFIRMS that BT.2020 is available on the 5040/6040 series units when using HDR2 and works in bright cinema. Looks like I have no reason to buy the Oppo 203 unless someone comes up with some supporting logic. Which UHD player are you using here?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ndabunka said:


> Thank You VERY MUCH!
> 
> This CONFIRMS that BT.2020 is available on the 5040/6040 series units when using HDR2 and works in bright cinema. Looks like I have no reason to buy the Oppo 203 unless someone comes up with some supporting logic. Which UHD player are you using here?




no worries, Im using Philips BDP7501


----------



## ndabunka

ana_moo_ana said:


> no worries, Im using Philips BDP7501


Perfect!
I am cancelling my place in the Oppo 203 waitlist and picking up the Phillips...NOW!


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ndabunka said:


> Perfect!
> 
> I am cancelling my place in the Oppo 203 waitlist and picking up the Phillips...NOW!




you might want to wait for some expert opinions first  Im just sharing my experience (& setting) with HDR/UHD. 
I have the older Oppo model (2010 or 20111) & might upgrade to the new one in a year or two, currently the Philips is doing more than fine in my setup.


----------



## ndabunka

ana_moo_ana said:


> you might want to wait for some expert opinions first  Im just sharing my experience (& setting) with HDR/UHD.
> I have the older Oppo model (2010 or 20111) & might upgrade to the new one in a year or two, currently the Philips is doing more than fine in my setup.


I think I have exhausted this discussion. Many appear to be basing their guidance on other projectors that are not as capable (in the HDR realm) as this projector appears to be.

Other 5040 owners had previously spoken up about how their projectors worked where others had said that they would not but there was often a lack of details in those posts. 

Without a Phillips or other UHD player on-hand I was sifting through true and speculation. You have helped clear up the speculation.

PS - I won't hold anything against you as this is my decision simply based on feedback from an actualy user.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ndabunka said:


> I think I have exhausted this discussion. Many appear to be basing their guidance on other projectors that are not as capable (in the HDR realm) as this projector appears to be.
> 
> 
> 
> Other 5040 owners had previously spoken up about how their projectors worked where others had said that they would not but there was often a lack of details in those posts.
> 
> 
> 
> Without a Phillips or other UHD player on-hand I was sifting through true and speculation. You have helped clear up the speculation.
> 
> 
> 
> PS - I won't hold anything against you as this is my decision simply based on feedback from an actualy user.




haha ok fair enough, good luck & let us know your feedback!


----------



## gnolivos

I'm confused. What's the conclusion been drawn here about the Philips and HDR?


----------



## rupedogg24

ndabunka said:


> Thank You VERY MUCH!
> This CONFIRMS that BT.2020 is available on the 5040/6040 series units when using HDR2 and works in bright cinema. Looks like I have no reason to buy the Oppo 203 unless someone comes up with some supporting logic. Which UHD player are you using here?


I have the Philips running through an Onkyo RZ1100 and get BT.2020 12bit. when playing 4k Bluerays in HDR Bright Cinema.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> I'm confused. What's the conclusion been drawn here about the Philips and HDR?


Keep up man! LOL
It works "just fine" with this projector when running HDR & BT.2020 color space. There is no need to buy either the HD Fury nor the Oppo 203 player as the HDR stripping function as it is not needed with this projector.

Others projector owners apparently have to strip HDR from the BT.2020 color space in order to get their projectors to show a bright enough image (e.g. they NEED an HD Fury or other device to strip off the HDR tags in order to have sufficent brightness).

We all know that the image on ANY projector can't meet the 1K nit specs but by using the proper settings on the BD UHD player the Epson does not "suffer" the "dim screen" others have reported when viewing HDR content without such stripping in place.


----------



## Black Banshee

Apologies if this has been answered, but I'm trying to figure out how to enable frame interpolation when gaming with my PS4 (for movies/TV I hate FI, but I really prefer it for gaming). I'm running the signal through a Denon x6200w receiver and have tried numerous settings on the receiver for the video, but no matter what I try on the receiver or the projector, FI is greyed out. I have also disabled image enhancement on the projector, but FI is still not an option. Tips?

Thanks


----------



## ndabunka

Black Banshee said:


> Apologies if this has been answered, but I'm trying to figure out how to enable frame interpolation when gaming with my PS4 (for movies/TV I hate FI, but I really prefer it for gaming). I'm running the signal through a Denon x6200w receiver and have tried numerous settings on the receiver for the video, but no matter what I try on the receiver or the projector, FI is greyed out. I have also disabled image enhancement on the projector, but FI is still not an option. Tips?
> 
> Thanks


Are you trying to run FI at the 60Hz signal? Scratch that. I think there are known issues with the PS4 code that needs to be patched so I will leave this one for others that have PS4s or just search in this thread for prior PS4 issues & you may just find your answer (You may not like it but...)


----------



## Ronman79

ndabunka said:


> I think I have exhausted this discussion. Many appear to be basing their guidance on other projectors that are not as capable (in the HDR realm) as this projector appears to be.
> 
> Other 5040 owners had previously spoken up about how their projectors worked where others had said that they would not but there was often a lack of details in those posts.
> 
> Without a Phillips or other UHD player on-hand I was sifting through true and speculation. You have helped clear up the speculation.
> 
> PS - I won't hold anything against you as this is my decision simply based on feedback from an actualy user.


Although I'm not an "actual user", there are a couple things, several actually, that I'm keyed into. I'm very soon buying a new projector, Atmos receiver, screen, and UHD player. So, I'm part of discussions all around. 

One thing I've read from multiple accounts is also in your 5040 owners manual. The section containing picture modes lists which ones will have color filter, etc. Check it, and let me know (for the both of us, if you don't mind) . 

Concerning a players possible ability to strip HDR for a projector... If it looks better, even if the projector does "fine" without it, isn't "better" still.... better? 

And finally, with your question of why wait on the Oppo. I have nothing negative to say of the Philips, which many have been super happy using. However, I've had an Oppo on my dream list for some time, and only continued to put it off because the Blu-ray player that I have (Sony) is fine. When it became a reality to finish out a home theater, I knew I'd update to a 4K player. Now, I'd followed critics' reviews of all the players out there. And, a good example of comparisons is when the Panasonic came out, it scored highly over the Samsung (possibly Philips as well) in areas such as build quality, load times, sound quality, and video quality/processing. Yes, it performed better, doing the same job. 

Now, the reason I mention that is only to point out that aside from possible "extra" features that one may "need", I believe the reputation of Oppo precedes the 203. 

I'm waiting to PROBABLY get the best built, best backed, smoothest running, highest performing, most refined Video/Audio UHD player for the money, to date..... 

Thanks for reading!  

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> Dave - I appreciate your experience but simply stripping HDR and allowing BT.2020 might provide greater brightness but it's still not going to come ANYWHERE close to the specs, right?
> 
> We know that non-5040/6040 users need it for the reasons quoted above.
> 
> However, other 5040/6040 owners have posted that they can already play the BT.2020 and HDR and get decent brightness on the 5040/6040 platofrms simply by changing the HDR paramter to HDR2. If that all works with sufficent brightness on the 5040ub without the need to strip the HDR then ... we don't really actually NEED the Oppo's HDR stripping utility but perhaps there is another reason, unknown to me, that might warrant the 203 for those of us in this thread (e.g. 5040/6040 owners). If so, I would love to hear them


Can 5040 owners confirm what ndabunka wrote. If this is true that would be some news because tons of complaints about HDR too dim on most(/all?) projectors in this general price range. If saying it is plenty bright please state size/ratio/gain of screen.


----------



## ndabunka

WynsWrld98 said:


> Can 5040 owners confirm what ndabunka wrote. If this is true that would be some news because tons of complaints about HDR too dim on most(/all?) projectors in this general price range. If saying it is plenty bright please state size/ratio/gain of screen.


Are you SERIOUS? You JUST SAW a post by an ACTUALLY owner that not only stated this but he even posted images yet... What is he, chopped liver? Give me a break!

It's posted in these threads numerous times but each time someone who DOES NOT OWN the projector "poo-poos" it and then, others take that doubting for gospel for some reason. It sounds like you are saying "It is some type of conspiracy"? LOL

There ARE posts where it is too dim. Read those and you wil find one of the following within those posts:
1) The users own a Samsung and were complaining before there was a patch
2) The current samsung users haven't applied the patch
3) The users didn't read the threads telling them they need to change the HDR from HDR1 to HDR2
4) The users don't, in fact, actually own an Epson 5040 or 6040. In many cases, they own other manufacturer's products that DO REQUIRE the HDR tags to be strippped before they can display enough brightness. So some Sony & JVC and other projector owners DO STILL have problems creating dim images.
5) The Epson user didn't understand his equipment and/or he configured it wrong
6) The Receiver between the BD & the projector induced a format change
7) Hillary did it
8) Trump did it
9) Jill Stein did it
Take your pick of any or all of the above.


----------



## ndabunka

Ronman79 said:


> One thing I've read from multiple accounts is also in your 5040 owners manual. The section containing picture modes lists which ones will have color filter, etc. Check it, and let me know (for the both of us, if you don't mind) .


Read it & fully understand which ones have the P3 color filter but have no idea what you are asking here.



Ronman79 said:


> Concerning a players possible ability to strip HDR for a projector... If it looks better, even if the projector does "fine" without it, isn't "better" still.... better?


What looks better than what? My term that it "does fine" is just that. The Epson does as "well as is possible" for any of these projectors to do. In fact, it does EXACTLY the SAME without stripping the HDR as others are getting by stripping the HDR for projectors that can not cope with it so I am saying ... This Epson run in the correct settings is EQUIVALENT to the people running projectors that have to use the HD Fury in order to display their images which... also aren't as good as they really need to be in the long term but then again, NONE of the current projectors (under $15K) have the power to correctly display HDR specs so... your point was what?



Ronman79 said:


> And finally, with your question of why wait on the Oppo. ...I believe the reputation of Oppo precedes the 203.


I think you misunderstand. I think Oppo is a GREAT company with quality products so no issue there. The 203 will likley be available tomorrow (because I just placed my order for the Phillips tonight, right?). It's also going to be 2.5 times more expensive than the Phillips and (based on all reports to-date) the 203 won't have ANY streaming apps available at introduction. All things they can addres later with software. The ONE THING I think the Oppo WILL have but you did not include is that it probably will have Dolby Vision capablities. While nice, that tech is going to take at LEAST another year or so to fully develop IMHO.



Ronman79 said:


> I'm waiting to PROBABLY get the best built, best backed, smoothest running, highest performing, most refined Video/Audio UHD player for the money, to date.....


I am certain it will be out by the time you decide to make your investments so that shold work out great for you!


----------



## spirithockey79

Black Banshee said:


> Apologies if this has been answered, but I'm trying to figure out how to enable frame interpolation when gaming with my PS4 (for movies/TV I hate FI, but I really prefer it for gaming). I'm running the signal through a Denon x6200w receiver and have tried numerous settings on the receiver for the video, but no matter what I try on the receiver or the projector, FI is greyed out. I have also disabled image enhancement on the projector, but FI is still not an option. Tips?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks




Have you tried changing from fast image processing to fine? Also, make sure your Denon isn't set to i/p scaling "on" in the video>output settings. Video conversion can be set to "on", but not the scaling. I have an x4200 and if scaling is on the FI is always greyed out. When off, I can change FI if image processing is set to fine.


----------



## Mike Garrett

ndabunka said:


> My projector is mounted 15'6" from my 120" diagonal 16:9 screen with a 9-foot tall (108") walls & the bottom of my screen is 27" from the floor. I am using a 18-inch downpipe on a Chief RPA mount with no need for keystone and the projector is still 12" over my head when standing up (I am 5'10" tall).
> 
> I was ALSO able to use a 6-inch downpipe that I had "left over" from my prior Sony VPL-HW50ES installation and while it would work, it seemed to also require a bit of keystone correction so I would expect that adding another 12" to the mounting posiiton would DEFINITELY require keystone correction on yours.
> 
> Why not simply do like I did and order the 18" just to be "safe"?


18" drop tube is way more than you need. If set up properly, you would not have any key stone using the 6" drop tube. In fact, with the image starting 27" above the floor (120" screen), you could use no drop tube and if set up properly, you would not have any key stone. Now that is not what I would recommend. Generally, you want the center of the lens close to the top of the image. lower is fine, as long as it does not cause a head knocking situation.


----------



## Mike Garrett

k3nnis said:


> Nice did not know it had this feature. *So by using blanking is it pretty much as good as masking the screen*?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not correct. Blacking does not make the black bars any darker than they already are, if the projector is set up properly. If it does make the bars darker, then the projector is not set up correctly. Blanking is so that you can blank out image. So lets say you have a scope screen and want to watch a movie that has different aspect ratios (Dark Knight). You can set up the blanking so that when the movie switches to 16:9, you can blank out the image that would be shown above and below the screen.


----------



## Mike Garrett

trainfan said:


> Well it does make my black bars look much blacker, and it looks fantastic





gnolivos said:


> Hehe it's all in your head!


No, it just means his projector is not set up correctly.


----------



## Mike Garrett

ndabunka said:


> My ceiling's are 108 inches high. A 16:9 image is 59" tall. The bottom of the image is 27" from the floor leaving approximately TWO FEET between the top of the screen and the ceiling so IMHO a white ceiling is not the "HUGE" deal that some make it out to be. If the image was closer than 2 feet it might be a bigger deal but in your case it sounds like it will be 3 feet from the ceiling.
> 
> Having said that I am planning on re-carpeting the room and will also likely re-paint the ceiling as well once we get everything else done. When I do repaint it I might as well go with a darker color but I don't think a completely black ceiling is attractive so it may be a dark blue or similar approach once it is all said and done.





Dws6 said:


> Yeah *I don't think it will hurt your picture quality much* but a dark ceiling eliminates reflective light which makes the room much darker. My whole room is a very dark gray and with nearly 200 watts of lighting it's still like night in there and I can't see crap.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes it does, other wise we would not go to such great lengths to black out our rooms. It would be much nicer to sit in a room that was not all blacked out, but we do this because it improves the image so much.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Dandlj said:


> Thanks very useful.
> 
> I've been told by my local HT store that putting in a bulkhead would help too ie the screen is recessed so won't get affected by the ceiling. Photo of the HT store demo room attached. Anyone got any views?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You would be better off without the soffit.


----------



## Mike Garrett

casino187 said:


> Online is fine with me. I'm not sure what I'm missing, but I can't find a 6040ub at Projector People, can you send a link please?
> 
> Update: I asked projector people and they do not sell the 6040ub, any other tips on where to buy one?


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-66.html#post47560689


----------



## MaximTre

ndabunka said:


> Are you SERIOUS? You JUST SAW a post by an ACTUALLY owner that not only stated this but he even posted images yet... What is he, chopped liver? Give me a break!
> 
> It's posted in these threads numerous times but each time someone who DOES NOT OWN the projector "poo-poos" it and then, others take that doubting for gospel for some reason. It sounds like you are saying "It is some type of conspiracy"? LOL
> 
> There ARE posts where it is too dim. Read those and you wil find one of the following within those posts:
> 1) The users own a Samsung and were complaining before there was a patch
> 2) The current samsung users haven't applied the patch
> 3) The users didn't read the threads telling them they need to change the HDR from HDR1 to HDR2
> 4) The users don't, in fact, actually own an Epson 5040 or 6040. In many cases, they own other manufacturer's products that DO REQUIRE the HDR tags to be strippped before they can display enough brightness. So some Sony & JVC and other projector owners DO STILL have problems creating dim images.
> *5) The Epson user didn't understand his equipment and/or he configured it wrong*


I guess some didn't...
Samsung players before the patch sent a SDR signal to the Epson, but people liked to force the hdr or the 2020 settings because, hey, why not? Result, a completely wrong image.
HDR2 is the standard and correct setting (it's the 1000nits encoded source setting of the projector, it just defaults to HDR2). You can change to HDR 1 (500nits) to have some brightness back, but don't forget to adjust contrast as there will be some white clipping.
JVC users aren't required to strip the hdr metadata, they just prefer to do so.


----------



## nickoakdl

I have the 5040 and the Philips and have had little problems with displaying HDR. 

The extent of the problems that I have had consist of not being able to set it and forget it, meaning, I have to spend a couple minutes each UHD movie tweaking the settings. Once I get it, it's been pretty great.


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> Are you SERIOUS? You JUST SAW a post by an ACTUALLY owner that not only stated this but he even posted images yet... What is he, chopped liver? Give me a break!
> 
> It's posted in these threads numerous times but each time someone who DOES NOT OWN the projector "poo-poos" it and then, others take that doubting for gospel for some reason. It sounds like you are saying "It is some type of conspiracy"? LOL
> 
> There ARE posts where it is too dim. Read those and you wil find one of the following within those posts:
> 1) The users own a Samsung and were complaining before there was a patch
> 2) The current samsung users haven't applied the patch
> 3) The users didn't read the threads telling them they need to change the HDR from HDR1 to HDR2
> 4) The users don't, in fact, actually own an Epson 5040 or 6040. In many cases, they own other manufacturer's products that DO REQUIRE the HDR tags to be strippped before they can display enough brightness. So some Sony & JVC and other projector owners DO STILL have problems creating dim images.
> 5) The Epson user didn't understand his equipment and/or he configured it wrong
> 6) The Receiver between the BD & the projector induced a format change
> 7) Hillary did it
> 8) Trump did it
> 9) Jill Stein did it
> Take your pick of any or all of the above.


Someone forgot to take their meds today! I never said anyone said anything false or poo pooed anything or anything about a conspiracy, have no idea where you came up with that rant, I'm trying to gather INFORMATION. Knowing screen size (and ratio) and screen gain is very helpful in these type of situations to understand if the same type of image can be achievable with whatever we have at home. If user A says I got great looking HDR with my 5040, that alone isn't enough information to gather from it that I could get the same kind of image with my setup with a 5040. For all I know they could have a high gain screen, tiny screen, just not enough information to know how it relates to my setup which could be wildly different than theirs. This info should always be revealed by posters in these type of situations to get the full picture. This forum is also about MULTIPLE users giving their perspective so MULTIPLE users of the 5040 expressing their satisfaction with HDR is welcomed to give a consensus vs. relying on one person's experience.


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> What looks better than what? My term that it "does fine" is just that. The Epson does as "well as is possible" for any of these projectors to do. In fact, it does EXACTLY the SAME without stripping the HDR as others are getting by stripping the HDR for projectors that can not cope with it so I am saying ... This Epson run in the correct settings is EQUIVALENT to the people running projectors that have to use the HD Fury in order to display their images which... also aren't as good as they really need to be in the long term but then again, NONE of the current projectors (under $15K) have the power to correctly display HDR specs so... your point was what?


Okay, this is completely vague. You're words are speaking as an expert comparing projectors but don't reveal what you're comparing the 5040/6040 to, please reveal, this is way too vague when you state things such as "it does EXACTLY the SAME without stripping the HDR as others are getting by stripping the HDR" and "The Epson run in the correct settings is EQUIVALENT to the people running projectors that have to use the HD Fury".


----------



## MaximTre

PioManiac said:


> It's my understanding (please correct me if I'm mistaken)
> That Bright Cinema mode in the 5040/6040 totally disables the P3 filter
> ...a requirement for accurate UHD/HDR BT.2020 WCG playback.
> 
> The standard Cinema mode that allows color accuracy is only around ~500 lumens
> ...*far* short of the requirements for accurate HDR playback on a ~100" screen.
> 
> The "J" brand projectors are more than double the light output in accurate P3 modes,
> but many still opt for SDR BT.2020 to reveal shadow details that can be lost on "some" 4K UHD Blurays.
> 
> I find that about a third of the 4K Blurays I own benefit from SDR BT.2020
> Most look just fine to my eyes, but I do have a very short throw (12') to a 1.3 gain 120" screen,
> so I leave my projector in low lamp (eco) mode.
> 
> But at least I have the choice,
> a simple click on the HDFury Integral android app on my smartphone
> and the corresponding pre-set on my projectors remote, will correct the image
> "if" I think it will make an improvement for shadow details, without destroying contrast,
> raising the black floor and clipping whites for a "Brighter" image (AKA Bright Cinema mode) that doesn't really fix anything
> 
> But if it makes you happy, ignore everything I just typed
> and take comfort in the fact that ignorance is bliss.
> 
> Most Projectors in general are a long way from perfect HDR playback,
> Don't kid yourself thinking they are ...many 4K HDR capable TV's are well ahead in that respect.


I totally get what you're saying but I think you're not fair to the epson.
I'd say:
- you are comparing the poor epson to your vpr, which is 2 times the price.
- the epson has plenty of lumens for today tecnology, that's is selling point.
- epson has a 100% P3 colors, I think you should check jvc base projector coverage
- you don't have to use Bright cinema mode for hdr (I agree it's not the most accurate one). You can choose Digital Cinema too and have a totally awesome image. Here's the catch: high gain screen in a light controlled room (black walls too). That's what I'm using. Digital Cinema, high gain screen (2.8), 90", high lamp, HDR1 with toned down contrast. HDR image won't match the brightness I get with my Samsung KS8000, but it's damn close. The Sammy is what I used (and use) for reference. And I don't need to strip hdr, I have full P3 colors, that's some impressive result I wasn't expecting to get. I bought the epson for hdr and hdr only, I was prepared to send it back if it wouldn't have been a good hdr projector, but I kept it (the only thing I miss is a true 4k resolution, I can clearly see the difference).
- I'd also say, epson can be used for gaming too
- the really hateful thing is the limited hdmi connection, but I can trade it for the low input lag

EDIT: that's the screen I'm using (bought in the 3D era)
http://3droundabout.com/2011/10/5273/screenline-launches-range-of-framed-3d-projection-screens.html


----------



## ana_moo_ana

how about using bright cinema with SDR, will this also be missing full P3 color?


----------



## MaximTre

ana_moo_ana said:


> how about using bright cinema with SDR, will this also be missing full P3 color?


P3 color requires a BT.2020 color space, so no SDR (rec.709).
But don't worry, just use the bright cinema setting if you need it, it won't be 100% accurate on the color side (we're talking about a full P3 coverage, rec 709/sdr is totally covered), but if you need brightness you have to get it.
Plus, don't forget the jvc x550 only has 87% dci coverage at best, and nobody made a great deal.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

MaximTre said:


> P3 color requires a BT.2020 color space, so no SDR (rec.709).
> 
> But don't worry, just use the bright cinema setting if you need it, it won't be 100% accurate on the color side, but if you need brightness you have to get it.
> 
> Plus, don't forget the jvc x550 only has 87% dci coverage at best, and nobody made a great deal.




that what I was thinking, I guess Im not that picky as some folks here & happily take extra brightness over 100% color accuracy. I use preset 4 for image enhancement, Im sure some members will get a heart attack from that


----------



## ndabunka

PioManiac said:


> It's my understanding (please correct me if I'm mistaken)
> That Bright Cinema mode in the 5040/6040 totally disables the P3 filter
> ...a requirement for accurate UHD/HDR BT.2020 WCG playback.
> 
> The standard Cinema mode that allows color accuracy is only around ~500 lumens
> ...*far* short of the requirements for accurate HDR playback on a ~100" screen.
> 
> The "J" brand projectors are more than double the light output in accurate P3 modes,
> but many still opt for SDR BT.2020 to reveal shadow details that can be lost on "some" 4K UHD Blurays.
> 
> I find that about a third of the 4K Blurays I own benefit from SDR BT.2020
> Most look just fine to my eyes, but I do have a very short throw (12') to a 1.3 gain 120" screen,
> so I leave my projector in low lamp (eco) mode.
> 
> But at least I have the choice,
> a simple click on the HDFury Integral android app on my smartphone
> and the corresponding pre-set on my projectors remote, will correct the image
> "if" I think it will make an improvement for shadow details, without destroying contrast,
> raising the black floor and clipping whites for a "Brighter" image (AKA Bright Cinema mode) that doesn't really fix anything
> 
> But if it makes you happy, ignore everything I just typed
> and take comfort in the fact that ignorance is bliss.
> 
> Most Projectors in general are a long way from perfect HDR playback,
> Don't kid yourself thinking they are ...many 4K HDR capable TV's are well ahead in that respect.


I am actually not ignoring anything in your response. Use what you feel works or does not work for you. Based on what I have read JVC owners may actually NEED the HD Fury (or Oppo 203 once it comes out) in order to use BT.2020 without HDR.


----------



## gnolivos

While the Epson 5040 is a fantastic projector, likely at the top of the list in this price point, it really cannot be compared to newest TVs. If you need the size then Projector is the only way to go. All else equal, you can get an absolutely incredible large 4K HDR capable Tv for less than the $3,000 of the Epson. If you think HDR looks 'correct' on the Epson, you really haven't seen a modern day quality Tv from Samsung or LG. Projectors are 2 years behind, people. 

I like my 5040 but if all I needed was a 70" screen, you can bet your ass I would be buying a nice HDR capable TV!


----------



## ndabunka

WynsWrld98 said:


> Okay, this is completely vague. You're words are speaking as an expert comparing projectors but don't reveal what you're comparing the 5040/6040 to, please reveal, this is way too vague when you state things such as "it does EXACTLY the SAME without stripping the HDR as others are getting by stripping the HDR" and "The Epson run in the correct settings is EQUIVALENT to the people running projectors that have to use the HD Fury".


I never claim to be an expert so you are fabricating that in your own mind. I simply stated what others have reported which is that "the 5040/6040's have no need to strip HDR in order to properly represent BT.2020 color space". 

Apparently, others feel they need to use products like the HD Fury in order to accomplish. Which other projectors those may be does not matter to a 5040/6040 owner.


----------



## exm

gnolivos said:


> While the Epson 5040 is a fantastic projector, likely at the top of the list in this price point, it really cannot be compared to newest TVs. If you need the size then Projector is the only way to go. All else equal, you can get an absolutely incredible large 4K HDR capable Tv for less than the $3,000 of the Epson. If you think HDR looks 'correct' in te Epson, you really haven't seen a modern day quality Tv from Samsung or LG. Projectors are 2 years behind people.
> 
> I like my 5040 but if all I needed was a 70" screen, you can bet your ass I would be buying a nice HDR capable TV!


70" is definitely affordable. Unfortunately downsizing from a 103" to 70" is not an option. I would consider 85" but those televisions are still way too expensive. My guess is that this is my last projector lasting 3-4 years, and by then hopefully the 80-90" televisions are in the $3k range.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> While the Epson 5040 is a fantastic projector, likely at the top of the list in this price point, it really cannot be compared to newest TVs. If you need the size then Projector is the only way to go. All else equal, you can get an absolutely incredible large 4K HDR capable Tv for less than the $3,000 of the Epson. If you think HDR looks 'correct' on the Epson, you really haven't seen a modern day quality Tv from Samsung or LG. Projectors are 2 years behind, people.
> 
> I like my 5040 but if all I needed was a 70" screen, you can bet your ass I would be buying a nice HDR capable TV!


Completely agree here & thus my use of "good enough" in my prior statements. No projector sold today (with the possible expection of the laser) are bright enough to FULLY represent the HDR standard.

I think the problem is that people who are reading about HDR are reading accounts of users getting VERY DIM/un-watchable images so they think that is all-encompassing & they write off projectors entirely without realizing that there are REASONS that some get VERY DIM HDR representation. Some need an extra device (like the HD Fury) to get an acceptable picture. Others don't apply a patch that "fixes" a content delivery device (like a BluRay player). Others don't use the proper settings on their projector. There are a LOT of reasons that readers might think that ALL HDR content is poorly represented on projectors.

Others are enjoying HDR on their projectors and I am following that group. This will be my last post about HDR until I get and start using my UHD BD player so have fun all.


----------



## gnolivos

I'm confused by this: if I tweak Bright Cinema mode and save it as Memory 1, then I load up the DEFAULT BRIGHT CINEMA mode from the setting menu, it loads the memory setting instead, including RGBCMY custom values. I was expecting that the default factory setting would be loaded with zero or centered values. 

Can anyone confirm?!


----------



## morellihugo

gnolivos said:


> I'm confused by this: if I tweak Bright Cinema mode and save it as Memory 1, then I load up the DEFAULT BRIGHT CINEMA mode from the setting menu, it loads the memory setting instead, including RGBCMY custom values. I was expecting that the default factory setting would be loaded with zero or centered values.
> 
> Can anyone confirm?!


You are right, but in order to have the original Default Bright Cinema Mode (or Cinema, Natural...) you have to go to Menu, and select Reset at the bottom of the Menu screen, this reset the values to default but do not delete or change the settings you have on Memory...


----------



## gnolivos

morellihugo said:


> You are right, but in order to have the original Default Bright Cinema Mode (or Cinema, Natural...) you have to go to Menu, and select Reset at the bottom of the Menu screen, this reset the values to default but do not delete or change the settings you have on Memory...




Oh gosh. Never noticed this. So any change to default modes is saved automatically? That's interesting albeit unintuitive.


----------



## gnolivos

morellihugo said:


> You are right, but in order to have the original Default Bright Cinema Mode (or Cinema, Natural...) you have to go to Menu, and select Reset at the bottom of the Menu screen, this reset the values to default but do not delete or change the settings you have on Memory...




I tried it. I reset it. And it goes to default. HOWEVER, if I go to my memory setting and load it, and then back to the 'factory' setting which I just had reset, it doesn't work! It loads the memory setting that it was based on.


----------



## morellihugo

gnolivos said:


> Oh gosh. Never noticed this. So any change to default modes is saved automatically? That's interesting albeit unintuitive.


Looks like any change you make to default settings is saved at least for the current viewing session. I don't know if once you turn off the projector and then tomorrow you turn it on again, the projector will still have the changes you made yesterday... you know what I mean?


----------



## morellihugo

gnolivos said:


> I tried it. I reset it. And it goes to default. HOWEVER, if I go to my memory setting and load it, and then back to the 'factory' setting which I just had reset, it doesn't work! It loads the memory setting that it was based on.


I think you have to save the new values/calibration like a custom setting on memory.


----------



## gnolivos

morellihugo said:


> I think you have to save the new values/calibration like a custom setting on memory.




Hrmmmm. Well that's ridiculous don't you think?


----------



## morellihugo

gnolivos said:


> Hrmmmm. Well that's ridiculous don't you think?


Yes... you have to save your calibration or settings to a memory, and then go to Rename memory and choose Customized and create a new name...


----------



## Mike Garrett

ana_moo_ana said:


> how about using bright cinema with SDR, will this also be missing full P3 color?


Anytime you are using Bright Cinema, you are not getting P3 color space. With bright cinema setting and HDR, you are probably getting the same size color space as the RS400, but the 5040 can't be calibrated as accurately.


----------



## zombie10k

ndabunka said:


> It works "just fine" with this projector when running HDR & BT.2020 color space. There is no need to buy either the HD Fury nor the Oppo 203 player as the HDR stripping function as it is not needed with this projector.
> 
> Others projector owners apparently have to strip HDR from the BT.2020 color space in order to get their projectors to show a bright enough image (e.g. they NEED an HD Fury or other device to strip off the HDR tags in order to have sufficent brightness).


Hi, in regard to the JVC this isn't the case at all. Our P3 filter has significantly less lumen loss than the Epson. The main reason myself and others choose on occasion to run UHD/SDR/BT2020 is the inconsistency between UHD HDR titles. You can calibrate for 1 title and may have a clipping or crush issue with another - then fiddling with settings, etc. 

By running a setup like the Panasonic UB900 / HDfury, the Panasonic is doing the HDR->SDR mapping. It does a remarkable job with this task and is consistent. (Samsung 8500 is terrible here in comparison so it is player dependent right now). 

in addition, with UHD/SDR/BT2020 we can also use a BT.1886 gamma calibration which looks excellent combined with the wide color gamut.

Ideally the Oppo 203 will allow the UHD/SDR/BT2020 combo without the HDFury and also provide good tone mapping for those looking to take advantage of this scenario. I pre-ordered the 203 and will be testing this vs. UB900/HDFury. 


All of this applies to the Epson 5040 as well. If anyone has calibration equipment and the equipment listed above, contact me for a discussion. thx!


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Mike Garrett said:


> Anytime you are using Bright Cinema, you are not getting P3 color space. With bright cinema setting and HDR, you are probably getting the same size color space as the RS400, but the 5040 can't be calibrated as accurately.




thanks a lot Mike


----------



## rupedogg24

ndabunka said:


> Completely agree here & thus my use of "good enough" in my prior statements. No projector sold today (with the possible expection of the laser) are bright enough to FULLY represent the HDR standard.
> 
> I think the problem is that people who are reading about HDR are reading accounts of users getting VERY DIM/un-watchable images so they think that is all-encompassing & they write off projectors entirely without realizing that there are REASONS that some get VERY DIM HDR representation. Some need an extra device (like the HD Fury) to get an acceptable picture. Others don't apply a patch that "fixes" a content delivery device (like a BluRay player). Others don't use the proper settings on their projector. There are a LOT of reasons that readers might think that ALL HDR content is poorly represented on projectors.
> 
> Others are enjoying HDR on their projectors and I am following that group. This will be my last post about HDR until I get and start using my UHD BD player so have fun all.


Put me in the category of those enjoying HDR on the 5040. On HDR1 it's plenty bright for me and the picture if great. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Input lag test comparison between the 6040ub (9300) vs a Benq 2430t gaming monitor.


----------



## gnolivos

The more important question here is... does anybody see a difference between HDR color space and regular on projector ? (Comparing for example a bluray in SDR vs a UHD in HDR.). I know I didn't, and I'm real picky. I argue that in a blind test most if not all would not be able to tell.


----------



## WynsWrld98

rupedogg24 said:


> Put me in the category of those enjoying HDR on the 5040. On HDR1 it's plenty bright for me and the picture if great.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Screen size? screen ratio? screen gain? HDR source device(s)?


----------



## rupedogg24

WynsWrld98 said:


> Screen size? screen ratio? screen gain? HDR source device(s)?


130" DIY Milliskin Matte White over Grey.
5040 lens sits about 13.5' from the screen. 
Don't know what my screen gain is TBH.

Sources:
Onkyo RZ1100 feeds the projector
Philips UHD player (hdr)
Roku Premier + (hdr)
PS4 
HTPC with GTX970
FIOS cable box



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdwilly3

dsewardj said:


> Thanks, I will give this a try when I get home!


FWIW, from the Epson maual, for a more complete answer, the following is what you will see under the Info button...

Information item
Description
Lamp Hours
Displays the number of hours (H) the lamp has been used
Source
Displays the name of the port to which the current input source is connected
Input Signal
Displays the input signal setting of the current input source
Resolution
Displays the resolution of the current input source
Scan Mode
Displays the scan mode of the current input source
Refresh Rate
Displays the refresh rate of the current input source
3D Format
Displays the format of the 3D signal
Sync Info
Displays information that may be needed by a service technician
Color Depth
Displays the color depth and color difference
Color Format
Displays information about the color space and dynamic range
Status
Displays information about projector problems that may be needed by a service technician
Serial Number
Displays the projector's serial number
Event ID
Displays the Event ID number corresponding to a specific projector problem; see the list of Event ID codes


----------



## Dws6

mase1981 said:


> The mount that came with the projector was Chief RPA Elite Universal
> 
> Sadly it only came with a 6 Inch Rod, which in my specific setup it wasnt enough. i needed 27"... and the 27" are really expensive plus there was no way i would get them in time.
> 
> So i went to Lowes and got this Rod, they have it in black and in all sorts of length. So i got 1 that was the biggest and also took an adapter and hooked them both together. i painted it rugged textured black which a spray can Lowes had (the color and texture were a perfect match). And it turned out perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> Last thing i had to do, because my specific ceiling where the projector needed to be in according to the calculations without the need to use any keystone i had to have it on the area where i have a slope. So i had to also get this bracket.




This is exactly the same method I used for the down rod. A 8" piece with the included 6" piece and painted. Works perfect looks good and cheap. Best price I found online was 45.00 for the 12" one. Nuts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

ndabunka said:


> Dave - I appreciate your experience but simply stripping HDR and allowing BT.2020 might provide greater brightness but it's still not going to come ANYWHERE close to the specs, right?
> 
> 
> 
> We know that non-5040/6040 users need it for the reasons quoted above.
> 
> 
> 
> However, other 5040/6040 owners have posted that they can already play the BT.2020 and HDR and get decent brightness on the 5040/6040 platofrms simply by changing the HDR paramter to HDR2. If that all works with sufficent brightness on the 5040ub without the need to strip the HDR then ... we don't really actually NEED the Oppo's HDR stripping utility but perhaps there is another reason, unknown to me, that might warrant the 203 for those of us in this thread (e.g. 5040/6040 owners). If so, I would love to hear them



It's more about the tone mapping of the HDR signal than pure lumens output. 



Mike Garrett said:


> Anytime you are using Bright Cinema, you are not getting P3 color space. With bright cinema setting and HDR, you are probably getting the same size color space as the RS400, but the 5040 can't be calibrated as accurately.



Exactly! You need to use Digital Cinema to engage the P3 filter from what I understand. 



zombie10k said:


> Hi, in regard to the JVC this isn't the case at all. Our P3 filter has significantly less lumen loss than the Epson. The main reason myself and others choose on occasion to run UHD/SDR/BT2020 is the inconsistency between UHD HDR titles. You can calibrate for 1 title and may have a clipping or crush issue with another - then fiddling with settings, etc.
> 
> By running a setup like the Panasonic UB900 / HDfury, the Panasonic is doing the HDR->SDR mapping. It does a remarkable job with this task and is consistent. (Samsung 8500 is terrible here in comparison so it is player dependent right now).
> 
> in addition, with UHD/SDR/BT2020 we can also use a BT.1886 gamma calibration which looks excellent combined with the wide color gamut.
> 
> Ideally the Oppo 203 will allow the UHD/SDR/BT2020 combo without the HDFury and also provide good tone mapping for those looking to take advantage of this scenario. I pre-ordered the 203 and will be testing this vs. UB900/HDFury.
> 
> 
> All of this applies to the Epson 5040 as well. If anyone has calibration equipment and the equipment listed above, contact me for a discussion. thx!



Oh cool, thanks for stepping in Zombie! Good info. Hope it clears up some questions certain individuals have and the benefits. 

I should be getting a 5040 here to check out on Monday. I'll compare to our non HDR Sony 350ES. It will be nice to see how each runs with differing advantages for each. I don't have a Panasonic yet, nor an Integral since the 350 doesn't have wcg capabilities either. I was waiting for the Oppo myself. 

One interesting thing I happened to notice late last night after hooking in the Philips UHD Bluray player to play with and compare to the XBone S. The Philips looked good but only gave me 4K 4:2:0 12Bit SDR. It compared well to the XBone S. Afterwards I was messing in the XBone's Video menu and saw the Standard (YCbCr, limited range 16-235) or PC (RGB full range 0-255) output options. I said what the hey, see what it looks like on PC. 

Well it seemed to really make it pop with the extended range, revealing details in the low brightness levels. It was really late and I didn't have time to pull out our gear and test anything but to my eyes I was surprised and now very curious about how accurate that mode is and if it's an alternative for displays without HDR. I did use the XBone's Calibration Option real quick tho, just to see if it would improve anything. I of course couldn't get the blacker than black "eyeball" to show, but I gotta tell ya actual video looked quite good after that. The colors were noticeably not as deep and saturated, but had a real natural tone to them. It was so nice compared to the Philips on YCbCr (can't change to RGB Full) I ended up watching way more of The Revenant than intended and lost some valuable sleep. 

I'll post a report once I'm able to get everything hooked up and tweaked a bit.


----------



## ClemsonJeeper

OK I'll try again. 

Anyone have any idea if there are discrete remote commands for LENS 3 - 10? Obviously I can learn LENS1 & LENS2 from the controller but seems strange they wouldn't have codes to go direct to the other LENS positions and not have to monkey with menus, etc.

Or does anyone have any details regarding the IP connectivity of it? I see it listens on port 80 and apparently is running a webserver but when I browse to it, I just get a 404 which means its likely expecting some location. Anyone have details on this at all?

How are all you automating your 5040's? Or are you just using the controller and menu when switching memory?


----------



## Ricdeau

hatlesschimp said:


> Input lag test comparison between the 6040ub (9300) vs a Benq 2430t gaming monitor.


Could you tell me if there is any additional input lag with 4k enhancement on? I might have missed if anyone mentioned it elsewhere in this thread, but I haven't found any confirmation in my searching around. Thinking about upgrading to one of these so I'm trying to be sure.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Too me I feel input lag at 4k but I have no way to test it. My leobodnar only does 1080p and no higher.

Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk


----------



## Ricdeau

hatlesschimp said:


> Too me I feel input lag at 4k but I have no way to test it. My leobodnar only does 1080p and no higher.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk


Much appreciated. Hopefully someone will run a test in 4k at some point so we know where that stands.


----------



## Dandlj

hatlesschimp said:


> Input lag test comparison between the 6040ub (9300) vs a Benq 2430t gaming monitor.
> 
> https://youtu.be/kesHXEe7vis




Awesome. Thanks.

I see you aren't in a batcave yet the picture is great. Do you have pics of your room as it looks like the walls and ceiling are white? (I'm still deciding whether to paint our lounge walls and ceiling)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Dandlj said:


> Awesome. Thanks.
> 
> I see you aren't in a batcave yet the picture is great. Do you have pics of your room as it looks like the walls and ceiling are white? (I'm still deciding whether to paint our lounge walls and ceiling)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Im in a rental atm, new house will be finished soon.









Here is what it will look like


----------



## dvdwilly3

Dave Harper said:


> It's more about the tone mapping of the HDR signal than pure lumens output.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly! You need to use Digital Cinema to engage the P3 filter from what I understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh cool, thanks for stepping in Zombie! Good info. Hope it clears up some questions certain individuals have and the benefits.
> 
> I should be getting a 5040 here to check out on Monday. I'll compare to our non HDR Sony 350ES. It will be nice to see how each runs with differing advantages for each. I don't have a Panasonic yet, nor an Integral since the 350 doesn't have wcg capabilities either. I was waiting for the Oppo myself.
> 
> One interesting thing I happened to notice late last night after hooking in the Philips UHD Bluray player to play with and compare to the XBone S. The Philips looked good but only gave me 4K 4:2:0 12Bit SDR. It compared well to the XBone S. Afterwards I was messing in the XBone's Video menu and saw the Standard (YCbCr, limited range 16-235) or PC (RGB full range 0-255) output options. I said what the hey, see what it looks like on PC.
> 
> Well it seemed to really make it pop with the extended range, revealing details in the low brightness levels. It was really late and I didn't have time to pull out our gear and test anything but to my eyes I was surprised and now very curious about how accurate that mode is and if it's an alternative for displays without HDR. I did use the XBone's Calibration Option real quick tho, just to see if it would improve anything. I of course couldn't get the blacker than black "eyeball" to show, but I gotta tell ya actual video looked quite good after that. The colors were noticeably not as deep and saturated, but had a real natural tone to them. It was so nice compared to the Philips on YCbCr (can't change to RGB Full) I ended up watching way more of The Revenant than intended and lost some valuable sleep.
> 
> I'll post a report once I'm able to get everything hooked up and tweaked a bit.


From the Epson 6040UB brochure...

"2 Color brightness (color light output) and white brightness (white light output) will vary depending on usage conditions. Color light output measured in accordance with IDMS 15.4; white light output measured in accordance with ISO 21118. *3 Entire DCI color space can be displayed in Digital Cinema Mode only.* 4 For convenient and reasonable recycling options, visit www.epson.com/recycle 5 SmartWay is an innovative partnership of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency that reduces greenhouse gases and other air pollutants and improves fuel efficiency."

I thought that I had read in one of the reviews that DCI P3 was in Digital Cinema only...


----------



## Mike Garrett

gnolivos said:


> The more important question here is... does anybody see a difference between HDR color space and regular on projector ? (Comparing for example a bluray in SDR vs a UHD in HDR.). I know I didn't, and I'm real picky. I argue that in a blind test most if not all would not be able to tell.


Then either the content was not very good or something was wrong in the setup. SDR is only 1080P 8 bit. If you were using Bright Cinema, then you are not getting DCI color space. You would be getting slightly wider than 709, so not much difference.


----------



## gnolivos

I do Cinema with P3 filter exclusively for bluray. I thought I'd seen 12 bit for blurays on info screen before.


----------



## Dandlj

hatlesschimp said:


> Im in a rental atm, new house will be finished soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what it will look like




Oooh very nice



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

zombie10k said:


> Hi, in regard to the JVC this isn't the case at all. Our P3 filter has significantly less lumen loss than the Epson. The main reason myself and others choose on occasion to run UHD/SDR/BT2020 is the inconsistency between UHD HDR titles. You can calibrate for 1 title and may have a clipping or crush issue with another - then fiddling with settings, etc.
> 
> By running a setup like the Panasonic UB900 / HDfury, the Panasonic is doing the HDR->SDR mapping. It does a remarkable job with this task and is consistent. (Samsung 8500 is terrible here in comparison so it is player dependent right now).
> 
> in addition, with UHD/SDR/BT2020 we can also use a BT.1886 gamma calibration which looks excellent combined with the wide color gamut.
> 
> Ideally the Oppo 203 will allow the UHD/SDR/BT2020 combo without the HDFury and also provide good tone mapping for those looking to take advantage of this scenario. I pre-ordered the 203 and will be testing this vs. UB900/HDFury.
> 
> 
> All of this applies to the Epson 5040 as well. If anyone has calibration equipment and the equipment listed above, contact me for a discussion. thx!


It's very true there's inconsistency among UHD titles on the HDR side. I guess that's a the problem with fixed metadata (the inconsistencies can be found among the same movie too).
I think latest Samsung TVs can deal with that using dynamic contrast (I haven't tested LG Oleds), that's one or the keys of their strong HDR support.
But I found it's possible to get a correct setting with this epson using the lowest common denominator (a movie like Star Trek), which will fit all the other movies too.
I got really amazing results using a high gain screen with digital cinema setting (so full P3 support), I don't really feel I have to stripe anything (it's not a subjective and biased opinion, it's based on a direct comparison with a Samsung KS8000)

But, as I don't have a chance to test the hddfury, the question is: should I still consider stripping hdr metadata? What will I gain? What will I miss?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

MaximTre said:


> It's very true there's inconsistency among UHD titles on the HDR side. I guess that's a the problem with fixed metadata (the inconsistencies can be found among the same movie too).
> 
> I think latest Samsung TVs can deal with that using dynamic contrast (I haven't tested LG Oleds), that's one or the keys of their strong HDR support.
> 
> But I found it's possible to get a correct setting with this epson using the lowest common denominator (a movie like Star Trek), which will fit all the other movies too.
> 
> I got really amazing results using a high gain screen with dynamic cinema setting (so full P3 support), I don't really feel I have to stripe anything (it's not a subjective and biased opinion, it's based on a direct comparison with a Samsung KS8000)
> 
> 
> 
> But, as I don't have a chance to test the hddfury, the question is: should I still consider stripping hdr metadata? What will I gain? What will I miss?




u r using digital cinema or dynamic mode?


----------



## MaximTre

ana_moo_ana said:


> u r using digital cinema or dynamic mode?


Digital cinema, my bad, I'll edit the post.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

MaximTre said:


> Digital cinema, my bad, I'll edit the post.




I see, thanks a lot, will give it a try & see if I can see a big difference between it & bright cinema (in my eyes)


----------



## Black Banshee

ClemsonJeeper said:


> OK I'll try again.
> 
> Anyone have any idea if there are discrete remote commands for LENS 3 - 10? Obviously I can learn LENS1 & LENS2 from the controller but seems strange they wouldn't have codes to go direct to the other LENS positions and not have to monkey with menus, etc.
> 
> Or does anyone have any details regarding the IP connectivity of it? I see it listens on port 80 and apparently is running a webserver but when I browse to it, I just get a 404 which means its likely expecting some location. Anyone have details on this at all?
> 
> How are all you automating your 5040's? Or are you just using the controller and menu when switching memory?



I am using an Ipad to run everything in my home theater. I would also like IR or RS232 or IP discrete codes for the lens positions. My previous Panasonic projector had one-button commands to recall all the lens positions, but I can't find anything either through Irule or Simple Control remote software (I have both and would use whichever software package works). Maybe this projector is just too new for the codes to be out there yet? Obviously the codes exist for at least lens positions 1 and 2 since those are on the remote, but I'd like to import those into my Ipad remote software. Also I would like codes for the different color modes without digging through menus. 

I also haven't been able to get RS232 commands to work with this projector at all. Was told to use a null modem cable which I tried with no luck. So now I'm controlling via IR, but it's annoying to press 4-5 buttons to load a lens position or a color mode. If anyone has luck here please let me know!


----------



## ndabunka

ana_moo_ana said:


> I see, thanks a lot, will give it a try & see if I can see a big difference between it & bright cinema (in my eyes)


Digital Cinema will be dimmer than Bright Cinema but as it also places the P3 filter into the light stream so you get the best color possible.

Running bright Cinema is WAY too bright for us so we don't typically run in that mode unless it is a game like Splatoon.

As a point of reference, I have a 120" acoustically transparent (e.g. woven fabric) with 1.0 Gain capabilities so I do not have a high gain screen AT ALL and use Digital Cinema as our "go to" setting for pretty much all content.


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> Digital Cinema will be dimmer than Bright Cinema but as it also places the P3 filter into the light stream so you get the best color possible.
> 
> Running bright Cinema is WAY too bright for us so we don't typically run in that mode unless it is a game like Splatoon.
> 
> As a point of reference, I have a 120" acoustically transparent (e.g. woven fabric) with 1.0 Gain capabilities so I do not have a high gain screen AT ALL and use Digital Cinema as our "go to" setting for pretty much all content.


Bright Cinema is too bright for you even when watching HDR content?


----------



## Labud420

I'm on dynamic most of the time, I have a lot of ambient light, SI slate 1.2 ...140"


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ndabunka said:


> Digital Cinema will be dimmer than Bright Cinema but as it also places the P3 filter into the light stream so you get the best color possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Running bright Cinema is WAY too bright for us so we don't typically run in that mode unless it is a game like Splatoon.
> 
> 
> 
> As a point of reference, I have a 120" acoustically transparent (e.g. woven fabric) with 1.0 Gain capabilities so I do not have a high gain screen AT ALL and use Digital Cinema as our "go to" setting for pretty much all content.




thanks for the clarification, I tried switching them over & I do like the digital cinema for bluray & streaming, but will keep using bright cinema for video games & HDR content.


----------



## a210amg

Black Banshee said:


> I am using an Ipad to run everything in my home theater. I would also like IR or RS232 or IP discrete codes for the lens positions. My previous Panasonic projector had one-button commands to recall all the lens positions, but I can't find anything either through Irule or Simple Control remote software (I have both and would use whichever software package works). Maybe this projector is just too new for the codes to be out there yet? Obviously the codes exist for at least lens positions 1 and 2 since those are on the remote, but I'd like to import those into my Ipad remote software. Also I would like codes for the different color modes without digging through menus.
> 
> I also haven't been able to get RS232 commands to work with this projector at all. Was told to use a null modem cable which I tried with no luck. So now I'm controlling via IR, but it's annoying to press 4-5 buttons to load a lens position or a color mode. If anyone has luck here please let me know!


I'm using Simple Control (custom command plist) and CommandFusion to control a TW9300 (UK equivalent to 5040) using RS232 (via a GC IP2SL). I don't remember doing anything special to get it to work but I did turn Communication On under Standby Mode. I haven't found a protocol document yet for this generation of projector but the document for the LS10000 on Epson's site has most of the commands and they do work.


The lens memory recall commands are in the format "POPLP xx" where xx is the lens memory number.


The colour modes I'm using the most are;


Bright Cinema - "CMODE 0C"
Digital Cinema - "CMODE 22"
Natural - CMODE 07"
Cinema - "CMODE 15"
3D Cinema - "CMODE 17"
3D Dynamic - CMODE 18"


Useful for iRule are the status commands;


Power - "PWR?"
Input - "SOURCE?" 
Colour Mode - "CMODE?"
Lamp Hours - "LAMP?"


I will be moving over to IP at some point (the IP2SL was used for my previous JVC projector) and I believe the command format etc is all the same.


John


----------



## Dave Harper

Dave Harper said:


> It's more about the tone mapping of the HDR signal than pure lumens output.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly! You need to use Digital Cinema to engage the P3 filter from what I understand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh cool, thanks for stepping in Zombie! Good info. Hope it clears up some questions certain individuals have and the benefits.
> 
> I should be getting a 5040 here to check out on Monday. I'll compare to our non HDR Sony 350ES. It will be nice to see how each runs with differing advantages for each. I don't have a Panasonic yet, nor an Integral since the 350 doesn't have wcg capabilities either. I was waiting for the Oppo myself.
> 
> One interesting thing I happened to notice late last night after hooking in the Philips UHD Bluray player to play with and compare to the XBone S. The Philips looked good but only gave me 4K 4:2:0 12Bit SDR. It compared well to the XBone S. Afterwards I was messing in the XBone's Video menu and saw the Standard (YCbCr, limited range 16-235) or PC (RGB full range 0-255) output options. I said what the hey, see what it looks like on PC.
> 
> Well it seemed to really make it pop with the extended range, revealing details in the low brightness levels. It was really late and I didn't have time to pull out our gear and test anything but to my eyes I was surprised and now very curious about how accurate that mode is and if it's an alternative for displays without HDR. I did use the XBone's Calibration Option real quick tho, just to see if it would improve anything. I of course couldn't get the blacker than black "eyeball" to show, but I gotta tell ya actual video looked quite good after that. The colors were noticeably not as deep and saturated, but had a real natural tone to them. It was so nice compared to the Philips on YCbCr (can't change to RGB Full) I ended up watching way more of The Revenant than intended and lost some valuable sleep.
> 
> I'll post a report once I'm able to get everything hooked up and tweaked a bit.



Oh my, so far it's a mess trying to get a decent image with HDR on this thing!  

It certainly does seem like an HDFury Integral may be the ticket with it. Otherwise you have to choose between way too dim, flat and lifeless of a picture with Digital Cinema with P3 filter or Bright Cinema without, although brighter and a little less flat and lifeless. 

I have tried many many different combinations so far using HDR1-4, SDR, expanded or normal range, all the picture modes and not ONE of them compares to my Sony 350ES that does 4K without HDR or bt2020 wide color gamut. This is all with using both a Philips UHD BR and an XBox One S. (Yes, I know its limitations)

I agree that 1080p is nice and has some pop though. It's a toss up with that compared to the 350es. The 5040 is brighter with more pop and intra-image contrast and the 350es' picture clearly has more pixel density and detail being 4K and also just a more "natural" looking image. 

I did all this last night and may have missed something since it was very late again after a long day of work. I'm about to head in there again......"cover me Porkins"!


----------



## Dave Harper

I see that the Sound and Vision review also shows they had to use the HDMI Expanded mode:

http://www.soundandvision.com/conte...projector-review-settings#YGs2mKZKRPXZ6TAA.97 

I still can't get this to look the way a real 4K UHD HDR display should look. I don't know what mojo these reviewers are using, if any, but me thinks there's some "pay to play" going on here.

I got a PM from someone that suggested I change the UHD Player to its 1080p SDR output for a better image. If that's what needs to be done with this thing to get an acceptable image, then what the Hell is the point of touting its 4K HDR capabilities and why even bother buying this "faux-K" HDR display device? 

I can't tell you how pleasing it was to turn it off and put my Sony 350ES *TRUE* 4K projector back on, even without HDR and rec2020! 

Sorry if I'm offending anyone here, but I'm a straight shooter and just telling it like I see it. Believe me I WANT to really like this thing and keep it and retire my Sony, but based on what I've seen (or not actually!) I just can't do that. I welcome any and all suggestions to test before I return this thing. 

Thanks for listening! :up:


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> I welcome any and all suggestions to test before I return this thing.


It sounds to me like you spent the evening flailing around making so many changes you can't possibly be making a valid comparison.

First things first, you previously stated that your Philips UHD player only gave you "4K 4:2:0 12Bit SDR."

Not to be offensive myself, but if you've read this thread you would already know from user reports and pictures that you are doing something wrong. With a UHD inserted you should get 4k 4:2:2 12Bit BT2020 HDR. You need to go back to basics. Reset the projector to its factory defaults since you've changed too many settings. Go back to your signal chain. Start by ensuring that your Philips is directly connected via HDMI into HDMI 1, it is the only port capable of 4K HDR. Once that works (and it will) then work backwards from there to ensure you still receive 4k 2:2:2 12 bit. Now plug in your receiver and use the Philips through it. Do you still get 4k 4:2:2 12 bit? If not, your receiver is a problem. It may need a firmware update. You might be plugged into a port that doesn't support HDMI 2.2 on the receiver. You can't make any judgement until you are receiving the proper signal.

On the XB1 S - it is well documented that it does not properly support HDR while connected to the 5040. It isn't going to be an effective UHD player for the 5040 at this time (but it should look great at 1080p).


----------



## ndabunka

Dave Harper said:


> I see that the Sound and Vision review also shows they had to use the HDMI Expanded mode:
> 
> http://www.soundandvision.com/conte...projector-review-settings#YGs2mKZKRPXZ6TAA.97
> 
> I still can't get this to look the way a real 4K UHD HDR display should look. I don't know what mojo these reviewers are using, if any, but me thinks there's some "pay to play" going on here.
> 
> I got a PM from someone that suggested I change the UHD Player to its 1080p SDR output for a better image. If that's what needs to be done with this thing to get an acceptable image, then what the Hell is the point of touting its 4K HDR capabilities and why even bother buying this "faux-K" HDR display device?
> 
> I can't tell you how pleasing it was to turn it off and put my Sony 350ES *TRUE* 4K projector back on, even without HDR and rec2020!
> 
> Sorry if I'm offending anyone here, but I'm a straight shooter and just telling it like I see it. Believe me I WANT to really like this thing and keep it and retire my Sony, but based on what I've seen (or not actually!) I just can't do that. I welcome any and all suggestions to test before I return this thing.
> 
> Thanks for listening! :up:


David - I will be getting my Phillips UHD tonight and will be reporting back my experiences. I am expecting to get very clear UHD content as others have been successfull within this thread and those reviewers. Little things like the HDMI port used have caused others to experience what you are reporting. Your issues may well be a simple fix.

Skin-in-the-game - I have a co-worker who is planning to buy a 350ES in the near future (1 to 3 months from now) so myself and he are both interested in your eventual analysis.


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> It sounds to me like you spent the evening flailing around making so many changes you can't possibly be making a valid comparison.
> 
> First things first, you previously stated that your Philips UHD player only gave you "4K 4:2:0 12Bit SDR."
> 
> Not to be offensive myself, but if you've read this thread you would already know from user reports and pictures that you are doing something wrong. With a UHD inserted you should get 4k 4:2:2 12Bit BT2020 HDR. You need to go back to basics. Reset the projector to its factory defaults since you've changed too many settings. Go back to your signal chain. Start by ensuring that your Philips is directly connected via HDMI into HDMI 1, it is the only port capable of 4K HDR. Once that works (and it will) then work backwards from there to ensure you still receive 4k 2:2:2 12 bit. Now plug in your receiver and use the Philips through it. Do you still get 4k 4:2:2 12 bit? If not, your receiver is a problem. It may need a firmware update. You might be plugged into a port that doesn't support HDMI 2.2 on the receiver. You can't make any judgement until you are receiving the proper signal.
> 
> On the XB1 S - it is well documented that it does not properly support HDR while connected to the 5040. It isn't going to be an effective UHD player for the 5040 at this time (but it should look great at 1080p).



Did you seriously just write that to me? 

Thanks for the "tips", but I was speaking of the Philips connected to my Sony 350ES, not the 5040 

You may want to take a gander at this:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...es-vw350es-owners-thread-79.html#post47733441 

I'm sorry, but the Sony 350ES with those settings smokes the doors off of the 5040UBe, with or without HDR and WCG (P3/rec2020). I'm speaking now from first hand experience with both, not hearsay and speculation. If anyone cares to come by for a demo my doors are open. I also welcome any other comments from others who have the same equipment and can do a similar comparison personally. 

I will keep playing with it though, I certainly could've missed something with the 5040, as I did for awhile with the Sony. I will report ANYTHING I find, good or bad.


----------



## Dave Harper

ndabunka said:


> David - I will be getting my Phillips UHD tonight and will be reporting back my experiences. I am expecting to get very clear UHD content as others have been successfull within this thread and those reviewers. Little things like the HDMI port used have caused others to experience what you are reporting. Your issues may well be a simple fix.
> 
> 
> 
> Skin-in-the-game - I have a co-worker who is planning to buy a 350ES in the near future (1 to 3 months from now) so myself and he are both interested in your eventual analysis.



I'm using the wireless UBe option, so input is moot. 

I can get and sell the Sonys at great prices from a Premiere Sony Custom Install Dealer, so have your friend contact me.


----------



## ndabunka

Dave Harper said:


> I'm using the wireless UBe option, so input is moot.
> 
> I can get and sell the Sonys at great prices from a Premiere Sony Custom Install Dealer, so have your friend contact me.


He has his own installer who is "on the hook" for the entire HT room so I would expect that he will remain with him due to that fact but I have sent him the links to this forum so hopefully he will join these discussions before too long. His house should be completed sometime around the 1st quarter of '17.

I do think that the wireless STILL has restrictions on the second HDMI channel as the 2.2 HDCP compliance is only valid on the 1st port regardless of whether it is physical or virtual/wireless.

What State (of the Union) are you located? He, I or others might be interested in your calibration services.


----------



## dvdwilly3

Dave Harper said:


> Did you seriously just write that to me?
> 
> Thanks for the "tips", but I was speaking of the Philips connected to my Sony 350ES, not the 5040
> 
> You may want to take a gander at this:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...es-vw350es-owners-thread-79.html#post47733441
> 
> I'm sorry, but the Sony 350ES with those settings smokes the doors off of the 5040UBe, with or without HDR and WCG (P3/rec2020). I'm speaking now from first hand experience with both, not hearsay and speculation. If anyone cares to come by for a demo my doors are open. I also welcome any other comments from others who have the same equipment and can do a similar comparison personally.
> 
> I will keep playing with it though, I certainly could've missed something with the 5040, as I did for awhile with the Sony. I will report ANYTHING I find, good or bad.


Do you by any chance have Star Trek Into Darkness (1080p, not UHD)? 

At 6 minutes 13 seconds there is a scene with one of the elder (I guess...) aliens in a large head shot.

If you have it, can you post a screen shot? I have the 6040 and I thought that it looked very, very good. I would like to see what I am missing...

If not, no problem...


----------



## Dave Harper

ndabunka said:


> He has his own installer who is "on the hook" for the entire HT room so I would expect that he will remain with him due to that fact but I have sent him the links to this forum so hopefully he will join these discussions before too long. His house should be completed sometime around the 1st quarter of '17.
> 
> I do think that the wireless STILL has restrictions on the second HDMI channel as the 2.2 HDCP compliance is only valid on the 1st port regardless of whether it is physical or virtual/wireless.
> 
> What State (of the Union) are you located? He, I or others might be interested in your calibration services.


Sounds fair enough.

I am using the #1 input on the wireless transmitter, but when I get a chance later I am going to try some new things and retrace my steps just to be sure. I am human after all! 

I am in HI, so don't get to the mainland all that often. Maybe once or twice a year and that's usually to see family or to vacation, so don't like to spend too much time doing calibration "work", unless the price is right. I do have a client from way back in the old TAW, Inc. HD800 with Rock+ scaler days in the Charlotte area that's been asking me back though. Maybe it'll be in the cards sometime in the not too distant future?



dvdwilly3 said:


> Do you by any chance have Star Trek Into Darkness (1080p, not UHD)?
> 
> At 6 minutes 13 seconds there is a scene with one of the elder (I guess...) aliens in a large head shot.
> 
> If you have it, can you post a screen shot? I have the 6040 and I thought that it looked very, very good. I would like to see what I am missing...
> 
> If not, no problem...


I think we may only have that on digital Vudu when my son bought it to watch with his friends, but I'll check when I can. I know we have one of the Star Trek reboots on Bluray. I did check SW Force Awakens though on SD bluray and yes both projectors performed close to equal with that source. It is 4K UHD Bluray that I have issues with between the two, with the 350ES handily winning that battle, at least for now until someone throws me the magic bullet or I stumble onto that perfect combination of settings like I did with the Sony.

Why do you want to test 1080p SDR?


----------



## Dandlj

Dave Harper said:


> Sounds fair enough.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using the #1 input on the wireless transmitter, but when I get a chance later I am going to try some new things and retrace my steps just to be sure. I am human after all!
> 
> 
> 
> I am in HI, so don't get to the mainland all that often. Maybe once or twice a year and that's usually to see family or to vacation, so don't like to spend too much time doing calibration "work", unless the price is right. I do have a client from way back in the old TAW, Inc. HD800 with Rock+ scaler days in the Charlotte area that's been asking me back though. Maybe it'll be in the cards sometime in the not too distant future?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we may only have that on digital Vudu when my son bought it to watch with his friends, but I'll check when I can. I know we have one of the Star Trek reboots on Bluray. I did check SW Force Awakens though on SD bluray and yes both projectors performed close to equal with that source. It is 4K UHD Bluray that I have issues with between the two, with the 350ES handily winning that battle, at least for now until someone throws me the magic bullet or I stumble onto that perfect combination of settings like I did with the Sony.
> 
> 
> 
> Why do you want to test 1080p SDR?




Isn't the 350ES more expensive than the Epson? Wouldn't it be reasonable therefore to expect the Sony to perform better?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chiltonj

Dandlj said:


> Isn't the 350ES more expensive than the Epson? Wouldn't it be reasonable therefore to expect the Sony to perform better?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was thinking the same. Is it ~2x better? 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

*5040ub settings with Phillips UHD BRP7501 for HDR*

I am not certain which thread to drop this into so I will simply put it here as I know that Dave was/is interested in my results.

Not certain if this results in a "perfect" HDR image or not but a LOT of people mention a lot of issues with low brightness when running in HDR. Here are some settings that may seem counter-intuitive but they DO help with the brightness and keep the output in HDR. These are NOT "calibrated" recommendations. Another thing to be aware of is that my screen is a 1.0 Gain Acoustically Transparent (woven fabric) so this really is a "lowest common denominator" as far as the brightness/dimness of the projection surface itself so others with 1.2 white non-AT screens shold see even better results.

Running in Digital Cinema to retain the P3 color features
[URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1 )[/URL] Turn EPSON Super White to OFF! Yes, your read this correctly. The OFF setting, counter-intuitively makes the whites... WHITER
[URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2]#2 )[/URL] Turn Brightness up to 70
[URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=3]#3 )[/URL] Use HDR mode1
[URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=4]#4 )[/URL] Set HDMI Video Range to "Expanded"
#5) Leave Color Space on "Auto"
#6) Leave the Power consumption @ Medium
#7) Leave the Auto Iris @ High Speed

Optional things you can do to raise the brightness and retain the P3 color filter
Option #1 - Turn the Gamma to 2 (maybe not THE best thing for calibration but it DOES raise the light floor)
Option #2 - If you need an even brighter image you can also change to SDR as this projector has the ability to still retain the BT.2020 . There is no need for anything like the HD Fury to "strip" HDR so that you can get BT.2020 in SDR as this projector can accomplish this natively
Option #3 - Bump up the power to HIGH (if you don't mind the louder fan noise)
Option #4 - Loose the contrast benefits by locking down the Iris (I personally do not recommend that as the great contrast levels are part of the reason I bought this particular projector so reducing them intentionally by locking the Iris Open essentially negates that benefit)

IMPORTANT NOTE: Some have reported problems with Denon/marantz AVR's restricting HDR signalling to the point where they needed to set them to "bypass" in order to get the normal brightness that I am seeing (As you can see from my signature I have the Yahama A3060 AVR)

 Hope this helps!


----------



## ndabunka

Dandlj said:


> Isn't the 350ES more expensive than the Epson? Wouldn't it be reasonable therefore to expect the Sony to perform better?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The "street" price for the 350ES is twice as expensive as the "retail" price of the EPSON 5040 but it DOES have native 4K instead of the eShift varient. Some feel that makes it worth the additional $s and it IS the least expensive FULL 4K projector available. As I understand it, one of the things is that the 350ES was not designed to handle HDR well (Dave Harpe can correct me if I am mistaken here) so that in and of itself may give the EPSON an edge & why others may be considering it


----------



## Labud420

Save the comparisons to another topic, this is owners thread only ...please


----------



## dvdwilly3

Dave Harper said:


> Sounds fair enough.
> 
> I am using the #1 input on the wireless transmitter, but when I get a chance later I am going to try some new things and retrace my steps just to be sure. I am human after all!
> 
> I am in HI, so don't get to the mainland all that often. Maybe once or twice a year and that's usually to see family or to vacation, so don't like to spend too much time doing calibration "work", unless the price is right. I do have a client from way back in the old TAW, Inc. HD800 with Rock+ scaler days in the Charlotte area that's been asking me back though. Maybe it'll be in the cards sometime in the not too distant future?
> 
> 
> 
> I think we may only have that on digital Vudu when my son bought it to watch with his friends, but I'll check when I can. I know we have one of the Star Trek reboots on Bluray. I did check SW Force Awakens though on SD bluray and yes both projectors performed close to equal with that source. It is 4K UHD Bluray that I have issues with between the two, with the 350ES handily winning that battle, at least for now until someone throws me the magic bullet or I stumble onto that perfect combination of settings like I did with the Sony.
> 
> Why do you want to test 1080p SDR?


I want to see how much better it looks than this, which is e-shifted 1080p, without calibration...

And, I do not have the UHD version, but I think that this is an excellent picture in every way...

It was taken about 3' from the 92" screen and then zoomed in to effectively about 6 " from the screen...

I just would like to compare it to the real deal...


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> Did you seriously just write that to me?


Pardon me for assuming that your post was referring to the topic of the thread. 

The 350ES retails at 3x the price of a 5040 although any objective observer would be hard pressed to justify that difference when directly comparing the two.


----------



## ac388

ndabunka said:


> I am not certain which thread to drop this into so I will simply put it here as I know that Dave was/is interested in my results.
> 
> Not certain if this results in a "perfect" HDR image or not but a LOT of people mention a lot of issues with low brightness when running in HDR. Here are some settings that may seem counter-intuitive but they DO help with the brightness and keep the output in HDR. These are NOT "calibrated" recommendations. Another thing to be aware of is that my screen is a 1.0 Gain Acoustically Transparent (woven fabric) so this really is a "lowest common denominator" as far as the brightness/dimness of the projection surface itself so others with 1.2 white non-AT screens shold see even better results.
> 
> Running in Digital Cinema to retain the P3 color features
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1)#1 ) Turn EPSON Super White to OFF! Yes, your read this correctly. The OFF setting, counter-intuitively makes the whites... WHITER
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2)#2 ) Turn Brightness up to 70
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=3)#3 ) Use HDR mode1
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=4)#4 ) Set HDMI Video Range to "Expanded"
> #5) Leave Color Space on "Auto"
> #6) Leave the Power consumption @ Medium
> #7) Leave the Auto Iris @ High Speed
> 
> Optional things you can do to raise the brightness and retain the P3 color filter
> Option #1 - Turn the Gamma to 2 (maybe not THE best thing for calibration but it DOES raise the light floor)
> Option #2 - If you need an even brighter image you can also change to SDR as this projector has the ability to still retain the BT.2020 . There is no need for anything like the HD Fury to "strip" HDR so that you can get BT.2020 in SDR as this projector can accomplish this natively
> Option #3 - Bump up the power to HIGH (if you don't mind the louder fan noise)
> Option #4 - Loose the contrast benefits by locking down the Iris (I personally do not recommend that as the great contrast levels are part of the reason I bought this particular projector so reducing them intentionally by locking the Iris Open essentially negates that benefit)
> 
> IMPORTANT NOTE: Some have reported problems with Denon/marantz AVR's restricting HDR signalling to the point where they needed to set them to "bypass" in order to get the normal brightness that I am seeing (As you can see from my signature I have the Yahama A3060 AVR)
> 
> Hope this helps!


Thanks for your settings n tips for HDR. Is this base on your new Philips player ? If yes, you have not comment if the picture looks OK or really good with it ?


----------



## ndabunka

ac388 said:


> Thanks for your settings n tips for HDR. Is this base on your new Philips player ? If yes, you have not comment if the picture looks OK or really good with it ?


Let me know if you find these as well for you as they do me. The equipment is as listed in my signature so yes, this is based on the Phillips & the 5040ub.


----------



## Dave Harper

Dandlj said:


> Isn't the 350ES more expensive than the Epson? Wouldn't it be reasonable therefore to expect the Sony to perform better?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk






chiltonj said:


> I was thinking the same. Is it ~2x better?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



Yes, street price it's about 2 times the 6040, but that's kind of the point of this. The 350es is older gen, just before HDR and the like were totally hashed out and manufacturers weren't making anything with it yet really. The 5040 is the latest gen. We all know as technology ages it gets cheaper. If the 350es were released now it would probably be about $5K. 

As ndabunka points out below, I wanted to see (and also thought it a good experiment and comparison, since I couldn't find any online) what the differences would be between a faux-k WITH the latest tech, HDR and P3/DCI, Rec2020 vs a higher "quality" full 4K machine without those newer technologies. 

Ya know, What would be the more important thing to have if one was making that decision today, which I am!



ndabunka said:


> The "street" price for the 350ES is twice as expensive as the "retail" price of the EPSON 5040 but it DOES have native 4K instead of the eShift varient. Some feel that makes it worth the additional $s and it IS the least expensive FULL 4K projector available. As I understand it, one of the things is that the 350ES was not designed to handle HDR well (Dave Harpe can correct me if I am mistaken here) so that in and of itself may give the EPSON an edge & why others may be considering it



Yes that's true. It doesn't support HDR and only has a little higher than bt709 color gamut (maybe 70% of P3 iirc).

I did try some new settings again today on the 5040 and still no dice. I did get it to close the gap some though using "Dynamic" setting and then tweaking back some of the overblown settings it uses. I tried connecting the Philips directly to the wireless tx and used the hdmi audio out to the receiver. Same result, and to answer a previous question about me "flailing about in the menus" or some such BS, I AM getting full HDR rec 2020 4:2:2 12 bit on the Philips when I do this. 

I'll go try those settings you suggested ndabunka and let you know. 



Labud420 said:


> Save the comparisons to another topic, this is owners thread only ...please



I'm sorry, but what if I own both? Does that still make me an "owner"? I think I am bringing some very valuable info to this thread don't you? I'm not like those JVC folks you guys seem to hate that barge in here spouting JVC propaganda without even owning or maybe even seeing and testing the Epsons.


----------



## Dave Harper

dvdwilly3 said:


> I want to see how much better it looks than this, which is e-shifted 1080p, without calibration...
> 
> And, I do not have the UHD version, but I think that this is an excellent picture in every way...
> 
> It was taken about 3' from the 92" screen and then zoomed in to effectively about 6 " from the screen...
> 
> I just would like to compare it to the real deal...



See, this is what bugs me. Why would I buy the latest gear that supports 4K UHD with HDR10 rec2020 capabilities and then realize that it looks better using lower resolution 1080p SDR? That would tell me right there something isn't right. Maybe this is a great (and I mean GREAT!) 1080p projector, but shouldn't really be counted as a true high quality 4K HDR capable display device?



c.kingsley said:


> Pardon me for assuming that your post was referring to the topic of the thread.


I was referring to your statement about me "flailing about in the menus" or whatever the heck you said. I took offense to that as some sort of knock on my experience and knowledge and capabilities when I have MANY MANY years experience from all sides of this equation including broadcasting, telecommunications, High end home theater, ISF Certified Calibrations, live event technology and content distribution to name a few. 

I think I am MORE than qualified to properly setup and compare two projectors for quality and what they each provide to the prospective buyer. 



c.kingsley said:


> ......The 350ES retails at 3x the price of a 5040 although any objective observer would be hard pressed to justify that difference when directly comparing the two.



Yes, this is true for 1080p sources, but certainly NOT when comparing the 2 with 4K, HDR or not! See my comments about pricing and technology advancements being compared in my previous post. 

My offer still stands for you or anyone who would like to compare them directly. It won't for long though, because if I can't get the 5040 closer to the image I get with the 350es, it won't be here much longer. 

Now off to try ndabunka's settings!


----------



## Dave Harper

ndabunka said:


> I am not certain which thread to drop this into so I will simply put it here as I know that Dave was/is interested in my results.
> 
> 
> 
> Not certain if this results in a "perfect" HDR image or not but a LOT of people mention a lot of issues with low brightness when running in HDR. Here are some settings that may seem counter-intuitive but they DO help with the brightness and keep the output in HDR. These are NOT "calibrated" recommendations. Another thing to be aware of is that my screen is a 1.0 Gain Acoustically Transparent (woven fabric) so this really is a "lowest common denominator" as far as the brightness/dimness of the projection surface itself so others with 1.2 white non-AT screens shold see even better results.
> 
> 
> 
> Running in Digital Cinema to retain the P3 color features
> 
> [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1 )[/URL] Turn EPSON Super White to OFF! Yes, your read this correctly. The OFF setting, counter-intuitively makes the whites... WHITER
> 
> [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2]#2 )[/URL] Turn Brightness up to 70
> 
> [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=3]#3 )[/URL] Use HDR mode1
> 
> [URL=http://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=4]#4 )[/URL] Set HDMI Video Range to "Expanded"
> 
> #5) Leave Color Space on "Auto"
> 
> #6) Leave the Power consumption @ Medium
> 
> #7) Leave the Auto Iris @ High Speed
> 
> 
> 
> Optional things you can do to raise the brightness and retain the P3 color filter
> 
> Option #1 - Turn the Gamma to 2 (maybe not THE best thing for calibration but it DOES raise the light floor)
> 
> Option #2 - If you need an even brighter image you can also change to SDR as this projector has the ability to still retain the BT.2020 . There is no need for anything like the HD Fury to "strip" HDR so that you can get BT.2020 in SDR as this projector can accomplish this natively
> 
> Option #3 - Bump up the power to HIGH (if you don't mind the louder fan noise)
> 
> Option #4 - Loose the contrast benefits by locking down the Iris (I personally do not recommend that as the great contrast levels are part of the reason I bought this particular projector so reducing them intentionally by locking the Iris Open essentially negates that benefit)
> 
> 
> 
> IMPORTANT NOTE: Some have reported problems with Denon/marantz AVR's restricting HDR signalling to the point where they needed to set them to "bypass" in order to get the normal brightness that I am seeing (As you can see from my signature I have the Yahama A3060 AVR)
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps!



You did pretty much close to what I was thinking. Are you sure you didn't mean "Turn *contrast* up to 70", not brightness?

Are you positive about the SDR with rec 2020 and not needing an Integral? When I turned on SDR and away from HDR but left Rec2020 on, it really wiped
out my low end and whitewashed it. 

Here is what my further tweaking got me tonight. It's much closer to the 350es now, but after another direct comparison, the 350 still bests the 5040, but it does look REALLY great with the below setting!!!























The difference really must be the added pixel resolution of the 350's true 4K, but the other thing I noticed was the colors just seem way more saturated and with an intensity I don't ever recall seeing here. Blood was the most realistic I have seen to date in my theater! 

I just don't get it because the 350es isn't supposed to be getting the wider color gamut or HDR, yet it clearly is better than the 5040's color depth. The only thing I can think is the combo of the change in the XB1 S to PC-RGB and the 350es to Color Mode 2. It must engage something in either or both units that allows wider color and maybe something like gamma or dynamic range expansion/enhancement? I'll certainly have to research this more. Maybe PC RGB mode allows the 4:4:4 12Bit color on the 350es?


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

I've seen the 5040, JVC RS400, Epson LS1000 and Sony 520 side by side in a split screen set up, with them all being calibrated, and in mixed scenes you can't really tel them apart with SDR. The biggest difference was contrast and black level capability, and with the JVC, image noise.

With HDR the Sony was only marginally better on resolution, and that was mostly in static scenes. With motion it was very difficult to tell them apart. WCG went to the 5040.

Of them all, the best image came from the Epson LS10000 which also had the best black levels. The 5040 was very similar but lacked the contrast/black floor. The JVC looked a little noisy and being quite bright had a raised black floor (the pjs weren't brightness matched). The Sony didn't excel anywhere and was considerably overpriced IMHO.


----------



## gnolivos

Dave Harper said:


> See, this is what bugs me. Why would I buy the latest gear that supports 4K UHD with HDR10 rec2020 capabilities and then realize that it looks better using lower resolution 1080p SDR? That would tell me right there something isn't right. Maybe this is a great (and I mean GREAT!) 1080p projector, but shouldn't really be counted as a true high quality 4K HDR capable display device?



MY opinion after owning and tweaking my 5040 to death for 6 weeks:

It's a great 1080 projector. 

It's a very good 2K (not 4K!) projector in SDR. YouTube 4K sources etc. 

It's a disappointing projector in UHD/HDR content. 

It also appears to have poor 24p motion handling issues for me and a few others.


----------



## Kelvin1000

I have compared the 24p performance of the 5040 and the JVS X550R as well as my Pioneer Kuro plasma with various input sources including my PS4 and Panasonic 4K player and the 5040 is as good if not better with 24p content.

The problems with 24p depend on the content not on the equipment.

The size, detail and brightness of the image just exposes what's always been there.


----------



## gnolivos

Kelvin1000 said:


> I have compared the 24p performance of the 5040 and the JVS X550R as well as my Pioneer Kuro plasma with various input sources including my PS4 and Panasonic 4K player and the 5040 is as good if not better with 24p content.
> 
> The problems with 24p depend on the content not on the equipment.
> 
> The size, detail and brightness of the image just exposes what's always been there.




Maybe so. I only have 4 other previous projectors to compare to. I never before felt 24p content was so bothersome. And that's using my same test material. 

This may be a case of the projector being so good, so bright, so contrasty, that it exposes the flaws of 24p. Much like a Ferrari having more road noise than my civic, because it is in fact capable of 220mph vs 110mph.

Ultimately, I find that motion with half of blurays is not enjoyable with this projector. Very annoying at that.


----------



## xrider

gnolivos said:


> It's a very good 2K (not 4K!) projector in SDR. YouTube 4K sources etc.
> 
> It's a disappointing projector in UHD/HDR content.


Hi, I´ve ordered this projector.

I don´t understand what you mean ? 
Youtube 4K its very good ? So its good with 4K content, altough not with HDR+4K?

Main reason I did order it, was for the 4K capability.
Every review I read. They say its a marked difference from 1080p content?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

I think Im one of the few people here who enjoying HDR UHD content. Watched Angry Birds yesterday, it was noticeably better than normal BD.


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> I was referring to your statement about me "flailing about in the menus" or whatever the heck you said. I took offense to that as some sort of knock on my experience and knowledge and capabilities when I have MANY MANY years experience from all sides of this equation including broadcasting, telecommunications, High end home theater, ISF Certified Calibrations, live event technology and content distribution to name a few.


I could have been more delicate but I still stand by my original statement. Your recent screenshots underscore the legitimacy of my original comments. You've manually forced BT2020 in the 5040 menu. Why did you do that? The 5040 will detect HDR vs SDR automatically when it is configured correctly. Why not change that setting back to Auto and then attach a screenshot of your info screen while viewing a UHD? It should say 4k 4:2:2 12bit HDR BT2020 on that screen. If it doesn't... refer to my previous post.


----------



## ndabunka

Dave Harper said:


> You did pretty much close to what I was thinking. Are you sure you didn't mean "Turn *contrast* up to 70", not brightness?


Negatory Ghost rider. I turned BRIGHTNESS up, not contrast (this compensates for the darker treatment of the UHD signal and leaves contrast in the correct range.

Change to a different source as those images aren't the best for testing IMHO. Why not something with a lot fof colors in it like "Life or Pii"?

Also, there IS something about a restriction on the wireless that may be causing you difficulties. Can you remove that from the equation and test using ONLY a hard HDMI cable or is that not viable. You can always put the wireless back in the signal chain again later, right?

Note: You should not have to "force" any of the color settings. I left mine all set to AUTO


----------



## MaximTre

ndabunka said:


> Option #2 - If you need an even brighter image you can also change to SDR as this projector has the ability to still retain the BT.2020 . There is no need for anything like the HD Fury to "strip" HDR so that you can get BT.2020 in SDR as this projector can accomplish this natively


C'mon, man...
1000000% NOT true.
I think you also confuse color space with dynamic range, they're not the same thing.
Plus, gamma to 2, brightness to 70?

We should try to get a correct picture, not a completely messed up one.


----------



## gnolivos

The man is trying to help. Don't attack. I want more people to help and less people arguing.


----------



## QuantumCosmos

McBadden said:


> Regarding 3D on the 5040ub:
> 
> Hello fellow enthusiasts!
> 
> Tried 3D viewing tonight for the first time on my 5040 using Samsung SSG-5100GB 3D HD TV Active Glasses purchased off Amazon for a fraction of the cost of the official Epson branded glasses. Easy to pair but a few of the batteries were dead on arrival, so recommend purchasing extra batteries up front. Glad I did!
> 
> My source material was IMAX: Under the Sea 3D. The results? Outstanding! As my kids and wife would attest. The iconic "cod scene" lived up to the hype, as did many others. Especially loved the snakes and cuddle fish. All images "popped" and totally lived up to or exceeded my expectations. I highly recommend this source as a reference for trying out 3D on your 5040/6040.
> 
> The disc was played on an Xbox One S using the Epson factory defaults.
> 
> I'm glad PJ manufacturers are not abandoning the 3D format like their TV little brothers.
> 
> Anyone had any experience with the 2D to 3D conversion feature? How does it work? Does it work? What does it do? What is the required source material? Is it worth my time and effort? Im sorry, I searched for this but really didn't come up with much relevant material.
> 
> WPS!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


Hi I have the Samsung 5150gb and have tried 2 of the glasses and cannot sync to the projector. I tried doing this when playing a 3d movie and it is detected by the projector, then pressing the power button on the glasses for several seconds inches from the projector. The glasses just blinks red continuously and does not sync. Is there a specific way I should be syncing these glasses? Thanks


----------



## MaximTre

gnolivos said:


> The man is trying to help. Don't attack. I want more people to help and less people arguing.


I didn't really want to attack him.
But that's not helping, that's misinformation, and how that can be helpful?
You can't force sdr on a hdr signal (or hdr on a sdr signal) and hope to find a good image, the range is wrong.
But you sure can convert hdr to sdr with the right tools (hdfury are the most popular), and feed the vpr the correct range, THEN you can change the vpr setting.

EDIT: some tips.
- hdr on a vpr is a very difficult task to accomplish
- don't mess with range and color space. SDR is SDR, BT709 is BT709 and so on. If you convert the range or the color space with dedidicated tools you can change the setting because you cange id before with the tool.l (example: using the Integral to convert HDR to SDR and select HDR on the vpr is wrong)
- you can take some brightness back by manually selecting HDR1 instead of the HDR2 (which is the right setting according to the projector table, it's the 1000 nits setting. Current BD UHDs are encoded for 1000 nits). If you choose HDR1 you have to tone contrast down. If not, you will have white clipping.
- leave brightness alone, if possible, but don't go too high (a few click at most)
- digital cinema (=100% dci color space) is the best setting IF and only IF you can get a brighter enough picture. If not, and you likely want get it (the epson is not bright enough for big screen, or low gain on), use bright cinema.
- using bright cinema is completely fine. I are loosing some dci coverage, but you won't even notice. You need brighteness for hdr, that's your primary goal.
- don't forget, hdr on a vpr is a very difficult task to accomplish
- as last resort, you can use a tool to convert HDR to SDR. Why? To get a more manageable picture and still enjoy wide color gamut and bd hud resolution


----------



## TheronB

I don't agree here. Using Native mode and Runco smart color on my Delta HT-8000 looks better to me than using the matched BT709 profile.


----------



## ndabunka

MaximTre said:


> C'mon, man...
> 1000000% NOT true.
> I think you also confuse color space with dynamic range, they're not the same thing.
> Plus, gamma to 2, brightness to 70?
> 
> We should try to get a correct picture, not a completely messed up one.


LOL!
I know but others on here were complaining about HDR not being bright enough (for them) so I agreed to provide some ways that I saw to address the issue. I did not use the gamma but using the brightness to compensate for the naturally darker screen does help and it retains the P3 color range. Of course, one could simply forgo any of that and simply run it in BRIGHT CINEMA and also get a perfectly bright enough image but then they loose the P3. Just giving everyone options out there.


----------



## ndabunka

MaximTre said:


> I didn't really want to attack him.
> But that's not helping, that's misinformation, and how that can be helpful?


I didn't personally view it as an attack so much as a What the..?
However, you appear to have missed at least some in the intent and also the translation. Let me help



MaximTre said:


> You can't force sdr on a hdr signal (or hdr on a sdr signal) and hope to find a good image, the range is wrong. But you sure can convert hdr to sdr with the right tools (hdfury are the most popular), and feed the vpr the correct range, THEN you can change the vpr setting.


This was not listed as a recommendation but rather was listed as an "option" to using an HD Fury. Apparently you disagree as there is an additional parameter needed in that process that the HD Fury can accomodate.



MaximTre said:


> EDIT: some tips.
> - hdr on a vpr is a very difficult task to accomplish


You introduced vpr but that leads to the question... Are you saying that HD Fury in some way accomplishes that "difficult task"? I still don't see the need for it as I also would never (personally) force SDR but I guess it's a battling point for some reason



MaximTre said:


> - don't mess with range and color space. SDR is SDR, BT709 is BT709 and so on. If you convert the range or the color space with dedidicated tools you can change the setting because you cange id before with the tool.l (example: using the Integral to convert HDR to SDR and select HDR on the vpr is wrong)


The intent is to retain BT.2020 and since you can do that on the 5040 without the HD Fury, Why bother with it. Apparently it has something to do with vpr



MaximTre said:


> - you can take some brightness back by manually selecting HDR1 instead of the HDR2 (which is the right setting according to the projector table, it's the 1000 nits setting. Current BD UHDs are encoded for 1000 nits). If you choose HDR1 you have to tone contrast down. If not, you will have white clipping.


That was #1 on my list. Did you completely miss it?




MaximTre said:


> - leave brightness alone, if possible, but don't go too high (a few click at most)
> - digital cinema (=100% dci color space) is the best setting IF and only IF you can get a brighter enough picture. If not, and you likely want get it (the epson is not bright enough for big screen, or low gain on), use bright cinema.


You are missing the ENTIRE point of my post which is ...to get the brightest viable (non-messed up) picture possible while RETAINING the P3 range. If you "use Bright Cinema" as you suggest, you might just as well ignore my entire post...



MaximTre said:


> - using bright cinema is completely fine. I are loosing some dci coverage, but you won't even notice. You need brighteness for hdr, that's your primary goal.


Always an option but when others are arguing that they MUST retain the P3 color space then...



MaximTre said:


> - as last resort, you can use a tool to convert HDR to SDR. Why? To get a more manageable picture and still enjoy wide color gamut and bd hud resolution


You don't appear to need any tool to do this on this projector in order to retain the wide color gamut


----------



## MaximTre

ndabunka said:


> LOL!
> I know but others on here were complaining about HDR not being bright enough (for them) so I agreed to provide some ways that I saw to address the issue. I did not use the gamma but using the brightness to compensate for the naturally darker screen does help and it retains the P3 color range. Of course, one could simply forgo any of that and simply run it in BRIGHT CINEMA and also get a perfectly bright enough image but then they loose the P3. Just giving everyone options out there.


Opinions are opinions, facts are facts, you can't select sdr for hdr because, you know, it's a fact that sdr goes with sdr and hdr goes with hdr. But I don't really want to argue, anybody can do what he wants.
Also good luck with the p3 color range with all the messed up settings, but that's completely ok, you have the filter so you're ok.


----------



## MaximTre

ndabunka said:


> WALL OF TEXT


Yeah, I miss the point, don't worry.


----------



## ndabunka

MaximTre said:


> Opinions are opinions, facts are facts, you can't select sdr for hdr because, you know, it's a fact that sdr goes with sdr and hdr goes with hdr. But I don't really want to argue, anybody can do what he wants.
> Also good luck with the p3 color range with all the messed up settings, but that's completely ok, you have the filter so you're ok.


I am perfectly fine using Digital Cinema without ANY of the configurations I outlined in my original post on this subject. But then again I also have a very dark HT so I may be able to view a lower lumen UHD and be "just fine" whereas others may need some help. 

I was just trying to offer others who needed more illumination some ways to achieve it while retaining the P3 filter. I get it, you think any or all or all of these things are the equivalent of performing Hari Kari on the image displayed. I think we got that message. Hope your day gets better.

I don't 'recommend' stripping off the HDR for SDR representation but apparently others want to do that with the HD Fury....for some odd reason.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

how to choose HDR1 ? I always get HDR2 in the info screen even when select High Dynamic Range to HDR 1 mode


----------



## ndabunka

ana_moo_ana said:


> how to choose HDR1 ? I always get HDR2 in the info screen even when select High Dynamic Range to HDR 1 mode


You are using HDR1. The code in the Epson just doesn't properly reflect it on the info screen. Perhaps in the next update they will correct it


----------



## rupedogg24

ana_moo_ana said:


> I think Im one of the few people here who enjoying HDR UHD content. Watched Angry Birds yesterday, it was noticeably better than normal BD.


I'm fine with it as well. What picture mode are you using? I use Bright Cinema. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

ndabunka said:


> I am perfectly fine using Digital Cinema without ANY of the configurations I outlined in my original post on this subject. But then again I also have a very dark HT so I may be able to view a lower lumen UHD and be "just fine" whereas others may need some help.
> 
> I was just trying to offer others who needed more illumination some ways to achieve it while retaining the P3 filter. I get it, you think any or all or all of these things are the equivalent of performing Hari Kari on the image displayed. I think we got that message. Hope your day gets better.
> 
> I don't 'recommend' stripping off the HDR for SDR representation but apparently others want to do that with the HD Fury....for some odd reason.


I use the digital cinema setting.
But I have a small, high gain (2.8.) screen, so I have plenty of brightness (small + high gain is the key). The room is a completely dark one too, even the walls (for 2 meters from the screen).
With bigger and lower gain screens it's very difficult to use the digital cinema setting, brightness isn't simply enough.
So it's better (not according to me, but according to all the reviews), to give up the filter, as you need the bright mode a lot more than you need the filter.
The reason for the hdr striping is to have standard range (the same one as ordinary bd) because, who as problem with ordinary BDs range?
The result is not very good IMHO (I have the hdfury linker, I tested with my eyes), but I guess for some "not so bright as the epson" projectors, it's kind of a necessary evil.

PS: I use the bright cinema mode with the xbox. Using the linker, the xbox one s gives full hdr compatiblity, that's why I bought it. It's not a bad mode at all. Don't forget the rs400 has about the same color coverage as the epson in bright cinema mode.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ndabunka said:


> You are using HDR1. The code in the Epson just doesn't properly reflect it on the info screen. Perhaps in the next update they will correct it



thanks a lot. Haven't heard your first impression about the Philips player & the UHD performance with this projector in general  



rupedogg24 said:


> I'm fine with it as well. What picture mode are you using? I use Bright Cinema.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk



I use bright cinema on 114" 1.3 gain Da-Lite screen.


----------



## Dave Harper

Gary Lightfoot said:


> I've seen the 5040, JVC RS400, Epson LS1000 and Sony 520 side by side in a split screen set up, with them all being calibrated, and in mixed scenes you can't really tel them apart with SDR. The biggest difference was contrast and black level capability, and with the JVC, image noise.
> 
> 
> 
> With HDR the Sony was only marginally better on resolution, and that was mostly in static scenes. With motion it was very difficult to tell them apart. WCG went to the 5040.
> 
> 
> 
> Of them all, the best image came from the Epson LS10000 which also had the best black levels. The 5040 was very similar but lacked the contrast/black floor. The JVC looked a little noisy and being quite bright had a raised black floor (the pjs weren't brightness matched). The Sony didn't excel anywhere and was considerably overpriced IMHO.



What were your settings on the Sony? Did you have anything similar to what I posted? If not, then you wouldn't see what I see now on it.

My thoughts are that HDR isn't quite there yet for projectors, at least affordable ones for those who aren't Donald Trump or Kanye West. It really kills the brightness and punch factor, thus eliminating any gains you get with HDR. You have to jack the projector up with a High brightness "dynamic" type setting, open up the HDMI range to full, brighten up gamma and then calibrate from that point. Then, at least on the Sony and 5040, you get some nice images with good inter image contrast and sparkling high contrast with some oooomph to it. 

After I did this, it was quite easy to see the resolution difference between them, WITH moving scenes, not static!

Don't believe me? Grab a 5040/6040 and a Sony 300/350ES, install my settings and tweak slightly as needed for your environment, watch the opening scene, ch 15 and a few others from Revenant and THEN come back and tell me what you saw!


----------



## Waboman

My aging JVC is slowly dying and this projector is at the top of my list to replace it. Glad to read it's been so well received amongst the members here.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Waboman said:


> My aging JVC is slowly dying and this projector is at the top of my list to replace it. Glad to read it's been so well received amongst the members here.




My 5 years old RS40 died few months ago after several bulb failures. Pretty happy so far with this one.


----------



## Dandlj

Gary Lightfoot said:


> I've seen the 5040, JVC RS400, Epson LS1000 and Sony 520 side by side in a split screen set up, with them all being calibrated, and in mixed scenes you can't really tel them apart with SDR. The biggest difference was contrast and black level capability, and with the JVC, image noise.
> 
> 
> 
> With HDR the Sony was only marginally better on resolution, and that was mostly in static scenes. With motion it was very difficult to tell them apart. WCG went to the 5040.
> 
> 
> 
> Of them all, the best image came from the Epson LS10000 which also had the best black levels. The 5040 was very similar but lacked the contrast/black floor. The JVC looked a little noisy and being quite bright had a raised black floor (the pjs weren't brightness matched). The Sony didn't excel anywhere and was considerably overpriced IMHO.




What do you mean image noise/little noisy?

It's a shame everyone can't get the same comparison in a store nearby as it would remove a lot of conjecture and people could decide with their own eyes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> I could have been more delicate but I still stand by my original statement. Your recent screenshots underscore the legitimacy of my original comments. You've manually forced BT2020 in the 5040 menu. Why did you do that? The 5040 will detect HDR vs SDR automatically when it is configured correctly. Why not change that setting back to Auto and then attach a screenshot of your info screen while viewing a UHD? It should say 4k 4:2:2 12bit HDR BT2020 on that screen. If it doesn't... refer to my previous post.


Seriously still hanging on this, huh?

All I did was put the 5040 in BT2020 mode so it would ensure it didn't "automatically" switch off of it while I was doing my setup, plus I did it for the screen shots I was taking of the menus so people could SEE what mode to make sure it's in when I posted said pictures. It doesn't change a lick what the Philips is giving me, which WAS INDEED (as I have stated already in my last reply to you!) sending me the proper 2160p HDR BT2020 4:2:2 12 bit signal! Get off it already and actually read what others are writing, open your mind and get past what you WANT to believe. I KNOW what I am doing here and have been doing it since 1987! Here's your damned screen shot, sheesh, now move on already!

BTW, NONE of my previous screen shots were for "quality" purposes, they were to show you what settings I was using so others could try to duplicate. Screen shots are completely worthless anyway. Who the hell knows what display they're being viewed on, much less the million other factors involved in what the end user is seeing. 

You are certainly welcome to come visit beautiful Hawaii and stop by to see this first hand for yourself. Or you can get hold of your own 5040/6040 and a Sony 350, an XB1 S and then put in my EXACT SETTINGS and tweak for your setup and see this yourself.



ndabunka said:


> Negatory Ghost rider. I turned BRIGHTNESS up, not contrast (this compensates for the darker treatment of the UHD signal and leaves contrast in the correct range.
> 
> Change to a different source as those images aren't the best for testing IMHO. Why not something with a lot fof colors in it like "Life or Pii"?
> 
> Also, there IS something about a restriction on the wireless that may be causing you difficulties. Can you remove that from the equation and test using ONLY a hard HDMI cable or is that not viable. You can always put the wireless back in the signal chain again later, right?
> 
> Note: You should not have to "force" any of the color settings. I left mine all set to AUTO


Try using my settings that I posted with images from last night.

I heard the opposite on the wireless, that it allows MORE options to come through than the wired, but I will try it anyway, just to quiet the naysayers.

You guys DO realize what selecting it on the PROJECTOR/DISPLAY DEVICE is doing right? That doesn't change one iota what the source, in this case the Philips UHD BR, is sending you. That ONLY changes what mode the projector is in. If you mismatch them, then the image is messed up. If you select the SAME ONE THAT'S BEING SENT, all is fine! (which I did and told you why previously, so as not to have the projector changes modes while I was setting up and adjusting it)


----------



## Dave Harper

Dandlj said:


> .........It's a shame everyone can't get the same comparison in a store nearby as it would remove a lot of conjecture and people could decide with their own eyes........


I'm speaking from fact, not "conjecture", BTW. The 2 identical scenes on the two different projectors are clearly and factually different, with the 350ES being the better one. It is VERY easy to see. I am not saying that the 5040 didn't give an awesome image after I tweaked some more last night and posted those settings, because it DID! If I had seen it blind without comparing to the Sony I would have been very happy and would be keeping the 5040UBe. For everyone out there, please try my settings on your 5040/6040. I think you will be pretty happy. 

As others have said and rightly so, it's because the Sony is a higher quality, more expensive machine. I just thought maybe with the addition of HDR/BT2020 in the 5040, it would've made them equal or even the 5040 possibly better. This was not the case unfortunately. Believe me, I wanted it to be so I could keep the Epson.

I think the key here was the fact that the 5040 only shows perceived resolution of 4K pixels as opposed to 8K on the Sony. Also the fact that the XB1 S was able to output PC RGB and the Sony was able to handle it and appears to really shine with that when pairing with the XB1S. I could not duplicate that with the Philips, on either the Sony or the 5040. If I recall, I think I tried the XB1S with PC RGB on the 5040, but the wireless Tx couldn't accept it. Maybe I will try what ndabunka suggested and use the wired connection to see what that gives me.


----------



## gnolivos

Don't worry about what you heard regarding wireless channel. Grab the manual online and read it for yourself. Certain modes are limited while on wireless HDMI. It's on the manual on a table. I posted it a while back too.


----------



## Dave Harper

gnolivos said:


> Don't worry about what you heard regarding wireless channel. Grab the manual online and read it for yourself. Certain modes are limited while on wireless HDMI. It's on the manual on a table. I posted it a while back too.


What I "read" was that the wireless bypassed the one HDMI chip that's used for the wired input, which has less specs than the one the wireless signal gets processed through. Is this not the case? Any links?

I used the wireless Tx to send the HDMI signal for that screen shot I posted above. That certainly looks like it's sending the right signal through wireless to me. (YCbCr 2160p 4:4:4 12 Bit HDR BT.2020) No?

I did read the manual before I got this, but I'll check it out again when I can, thanks!


----------



## Dave Harper

gnolivos said:


> Don't worry about what you heard regarding wireless channel. Grab the manual online and read it for yourself. Certain modes are limited while on wireless HDMI. It's on the manual on a table. I posted it a while back too.





Dave Harper said:


> What I "read" was that the wireless bypassed the one HDMI chip that's used for the wired input, which has less specs than the one the wireless signal gets processed through. Is this not the case? Any links?
> 
> I used the wireless Tx to send the HDMI signal for that screen shot I posted above. That certainly looks like it's sending the right signal through wireless to me. (YCbCr 2160p 4:4:4 12 Bit HDR BT.2020) No?
> 
> I did read the manual before I got this, but I'll check it out again when I can, thanks!


Seems to me that you're confusing the two and swapping their capabilities. This image from the manual and posted *here*, as well as *the screen shot I posted*, contradict you and says that the wireless option ADDS a couple modes it's capable of as compared to the wired HDMI, as I stated:










You can easily see that the wireless option adds the 4K (24p) 4:4:4 10 and 12 bit options (converted to 10 bit) that the wired shows it does NOT have.


----------



## ndabunka

Dave Harper said:


> I'm speaking from fact, not "conjecture", BTW. The 2 identical scenes on the two different projectors are clearly and factually different, with the 350ES being the better one. It is VERY easy to see. I am not saying that the 5040 didn't give an awesome image after I tweaked some more last night and posted those settings, because it DID! If I had seen it blind without comparing to the Sony I would have been very happy and would be keeping the 5040UBe. For everyone out there, please try my settings on your 5040/6040. I think you will be pretty happy.
> 
> As others have said and rightly so, it's because the Sony is a higher quality, more expensive machine. I just thought maybe with the addition of HDR/BT2020 in the 5040, it would've made them equal or even the 5040 possibly better. This was not the case unfortunately. Believe me, I wanted it to be so I could keep the Epson.


Return the Gamma back to default and you might see a better EPSON image. That Gamma set to 2 "option" was just in case someone wanted to try it. It does require a lot of correcting if it is used

SDR with BT.2020 - I just showed that it IS possible to represent it on this projector. I do agree that you have to match source and destination & I don't run ANYTHING in SDR so I simply don't know if other additional tools may also be required.


----------



## Dave Harper

ndabunka said:


> Return the Gamma back to default and you might see a better EPSON image. That Gamma set to 2 "option" was just in case someone wanted to try it. It does require a lot of correcting if it is used.....


Already did and it doesn't. Have you tried my settings?



ndabunka said:


> ......SDR with BT.2020 - I just showed that it IS possible to represent it on this projector. I do agree that you have to match source and destination & I don't run ANYTHING in SDR so I simply don't know if other additional tools may also be required.
> 
> Wireless - I may have a link to that post somewhere in my book marks.


I think you're missing something here. The projector is still "receiving" the HDR signal, so by setting it to SDR you are creating a mismatch and therefore not using the proper tone map/lookup table for the colors to be accurate, etc. This is exactly why you DO need an HDFury Integral in the chain, because that device does the proper tone mapping to the signal from HDR (sent by the source) through the Integral (tone mapping), to SDR while maintaining BT2020 WCG (sent to the projector).

Try my settings, it keeps ALL of the higher specs in tact. 

I just posted links saying the wireless adds capabilities.


----------



## gnolivos

Page 160.


----------



## LondonBenji

Dave Harper said:


> I just posted links saying the wireless adds capabilities.


As I read that, it doesn't add anything except for being able to _accept _4k24p 4:4:4 10/12bit but since it's processed at 4:2:2 10bit, it's not actually more _capable_ as such.


----------



## Dave Harper

gnolivos said:


> Page 160.





LondonBenji said:


> As I read that, it doesn't add anything except for being able to _accept _4k24p 4:4:4 10/12bit but since it's processed at 4:2:2 10bit, it's not actually more _capable_ as such.


Yet, here we are:










If something can accept more signals than something else, whether it actually displays them doesn't mean it isn't more capable or doesn't add extra functionality, because it does. If that were the case, then the 5040/6040 wouldn't "add" anything to 1080p nor be able to be called a "4K Capable" projector, because it doesn't actually "display" the 4K signal that it receives in a true 4K image!

And the 4Kx2K (SMPTE) is 4096 x 2160, which UHD BRs (and most all streaming 4K sources I believe) do not have. They use 3840 x 2160p, so it's pretty much moot.


----------



## ndabunka

Dave Harper said:


> Already did and it doesn't. Have you tried my settings?


I must have missed them. Which post # in this thread has them?



Dave Harper said:


> I think you're missing something here. The projector is still "receiving" the HDR signal, so by setting it to SDR you are creating a mismatch and therefore not using the proper tone map/lookup table for the colors to be accurate, etc. This is exactly why you DO need an HDFury Integral in the chain, because that device does the proper tone mapping to the signal from HDR (sent by the source) through the Integral (tone mapping), to SDR while maintaining BT2020 WCG (sent to the projector).


I may well be. I will have to read more on the HD Fury. I was just happy that all the HDR stuff was viable on the 5040 that I must have mis-understood exactly what the HD Fury was doing.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> Page 160.


This was what I saw previously on the restrictions for DEEP COLOR. But there appears to be a lot of confusion as to what DEEP COLOR actually IS even among the players on this board. Many say that it's a parameter for older BluRay disc and does nothing or should actually be TURNED OFF for UHD. if that's the case than perhaps this restriction/limitation is firing blanks.

The intor from another (much longer) thread on another HT enthusiast site..."HDMI Deep Colour is about bit depth and numerical precision and doesn't provide a wider colour gamut, greater saturation or more vibrant colour."


----------



## ryanfx

mydsouza said:


> I proudly upgraded my 6030 to a 6040 this weekend. So far impressed with the picture. However, I only have a Roku Ultra as a UHD source and am having trouble setting the Roku display type to 4K UHD HDR. Apparently my Roku tells me that the display does not report back as an HDR capable display, please consult TV settings to enable Deep COlor. I have all this interconnected via a Yamaha AVR 3050 which features both HDMI 2.0a inputs with HDCP 2.2. Is this a compatibilty issue. I just updated both Roku and Yamaha with the latest firmware updated. Please help!


I contacted Roku about this. Apparently the Netflix app (specifically) is broken. If you try another 4K source (such as Amazon) it works fine.


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> Seriously still hanging on this, huh?
> 
> All I did was put the 5040 in BT2020 mode so it would ensure it didn't "automatically" switch off of it while I was doing my setup, plus I did it for the screen shots I was taking of the menus so people could SEE what mode to make sure it's in when I posted said pictures....


Thanks. I think you misunderstand my intent and that is unfortunate. I've had a 5040 for several weeks and I understand first hand what happens on screen when the source color is mismatched with the display, e.g. SDR input and HDR1-4 set rather than Auto. My request had everything to do with ensuring precision--to verify an apples to apples comparison. I'm not trying to stir the pot... 

Did you arrive at those settings using gear, colorimeter, etc. or was it done by eye?


----------



## LondonBenji

Dave Harper said:


> Yet, here we are:
> 
> If something can accept more signals than something else, whether it actually displays them doesn't mean it isn't more capable or doesn't add extra functionality, because it does. If that were the case, then the 5040/6040 wouldn't "add" anything to 1080p nor be able to be called a "4K Capable" projector, because it doesn't actually "display" the 4K signal that it receives in a true 4K image!
> 
> And the 4Kx2K (SMPTE) is 4096 x 2160, which UHD BRs (and most all streaming 4K sources I believe) do not have. They use 3840 x 2160p, so it's pretty much moot.


Is that from the projector menu or the player? Also your analogy doesn't work, it's not just a 1080p projector, it actually does something else in addition to replicate 4k displays, otherwise everyone would be calling a 1080p projector 4k.

The correct analogy in reference to what I was saying is for example 720p projectors which will happily accept a 1080p signal and resize it to 720p. Just because it displays the 1080p video, doesn't mean you're getting a 1080p output.

At the end of the day, wireless simply doesn't have the bandwidth without compression or compromise.


----------



## Dave Harper

ndabunka said:


> I must have missed them. Which post # in this thread has them?
> 
> 
> I may well be. I will have to read more on the HD Fury. I was just happy that all the HDR stuff was viable on the 5040 that I must have mis-understood exactly what the HD Fury was doing.


The settings are in the pictures I attached here on this post:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...0ub-6040ub-owners-thread-72.html#post47756625



ndabunka said:


> This was what I saw previously on the restrictions for DEEP COLOR. But there appears to be a lot of confusion as to what DEEP COLOR actually IS even among the players on this board. Many say that it's a parameter for older BluRay disc and does nothing or should actually be TURNED OFF for UHD. if that's the case than perhaps this restriction/limitation is firing blanks


Deep Color is ANY color gamut with more than a billion colors, so it applies to SD and UHD Blurays and other sources. It's basically anything above the 8 bit color gamut, like 10, 12, 16 bits, etc.

Here is good info on it:

https://sewelldirect.com/learning-center/what-is-deep-color


----------



## gnolivos

That screenshot of signal settings is irrelevant. It is not the projector menu!


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> Thanks. I think you misunderstand my intent and that is unfortunate. I've had a 5040 for several weeks and I understand first hand what happens on screen when the source color is mismatched with the display, e.g. SDR input and HDR1-4 set rather than Auto. My request had everything to do with ensuring precision--to verify an apples to apples comparison. I'm not trying to stir the pot...
> 
> Did you arrive at those settings using gear, colorimeter, etc. or was it done by eye?


I completely understood your "intent", but you misunderstood what hard switching it to the actual signal selection does in the projector apparently. I am trained enough to know and see what happens when signals conflict. It is VERY easy to see when you send an HDR signal into a display device that is set to display SDR. I am sure I would have noticed, but thank you. I certainly know enough not to "flail about in the menus" 

So far I only used the XB1S's "Calibrate TV" feature that allows you to set brightness, contrast, color and tint. My 350es is already ISF calibrated, but that was using bt709 discs and test patterns, etc. I understand the limitations of this and went with my WELL TRAINED eyes and experience to judge the end results on screen and any non-blind person with any experience whatsoever can see the clear difference and better image of the Sony when doing direct comparisons, as I have been for the last few days. I haven't had time to drag out all my gearand set it up in the evenings this week and will certainly do that when I am able. Believe me, I am just as curious, if not more, than you are! 

I was allowing the Epson's lamp to settle in before breaking out my gear and calibrating that, even though it will change in the first hundred or more hours as the lamp ages and settles in completely. It will not make a difference with the differences that I see between them though, mainly resolution, "naturalness" and depth of image with the Sony. The results I have gotten are arguably the BEST I have ever seen in my demo theaters wherever I have been (not including on the job with some of my very wealthy clients that could afford displays like the Sony VPL-VW5000ES and some trade shows like CES, T.H.E. Show and CEDIA). So far, being mainly a sole proprietor calibration and consulting business, I can only afford the Sony 350ES, and that was with an awesome discount from my main dealer that I have worked for and with for many years. I am working on being able to get a 365ES from him so I have full HDR/WCG support, and it's also why I decided to try the 5040 since it was so much cheaper, even with my discount. But alas, the 350ES even with it's limitations still outperforms the 5040/6040.

So if anyone is in the market for something like the 5040/6040, I would HIGHLY consider the Sony 300/350ES as well if it's close to the price or even maybe $1K more than the 6040UB. The native 4K and xvColor feature still appears to bring it above the faux-K with HDR of the Epson. (not drastically, but perceptible)


----------



## Dave Harper

gnolivos said:


> That screenshot of signal settings is irrelevant. It is not the projector menu!


Are you talking to ME? It is OF COURSE the "projector menu"!!!


























What the heck is in the water around here at AVS lately??? So many naysayers, just to be contrarians or something!

Why do people seem to NEVER put forth the time and effort to read and comprehend what was written BEFORE replying with a bunch of hogwash that doesn't even pertain to what was posted? This explains a lot in our society nowadays, such short attention spans and lack of attention to detail.


----------



## Dave Harper

LondonBenji said:


> Is that from the projector menu or the player? Also your analogy doesn't work, it's not just a 1080p projector, it actually does something else in addition to replicate 4k displays, otherwise everyone would be calling a 1080p projector 4k.
> 
> The correct analogy in reference to what I was saying is for example 720p projectors which will happily accept a 1080p signal and resize it to 720p. Just because it displays the 1080p video, doesn't mean you're getting a 1080p output.
> 
> At the end of the day, wireless simply doesn't have the bandwidth without compression or compromise.


Oh dear Lord, I give up!


----------



## gnolivos

Dave Harper said:


> Are you talking to ME? It is OF COURSE the "projector menu"!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What the heck is in the water around here at AVS lately??? So many naysayers, just to be contrarians or something!
> 
> 
> 
> Why do people seem to NEVER put forth the time and effort to read and comprehend what was written BEFORE replying with a bunch of hogwash that doesn't even pertain to what was posted? This explains a lot in our society nowadays, such short attention spans and lack of attention to detail.




Lol that's ironic what you posted. You went ballistic. Are your screenshots from the projector? Yes they are. Why you thought I was referring to you? Must be your water. 

In all seriousness I was referring to the guy posting several posts above where he CLEARLY is posting a picture from his PLAYER OR AVR.


----------



## Dandlj

Dave Harper said:


> I'm speaking from fact, not "conjecture", BTW. The 2 identical scenes on the two different projectors are clearly and factually different, with the 350ES being the better one. It is VERY easy to see. I am not saying that the 5040 didn't give an awesome image after I tweaked some more last night and posted those settings, because it DID! If I had seen it blind without comparing to the Sony I would have been very happy and would be keeping the 5040UBe. For everyone out there, please try my settings on your 5040/6040. I think you will be pretty happy.
> 
> 
> 
> As others have said and rightly so, it's because the Sony is a higher quality, more expensive machine. I just thought maybe with the addition of HDR/BT2020 in the 5040, it would've made them equal or even the 5040 possibly better. This was not the case unfortunately. Believe me, I wanted it to be so I could keep the Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> I think the key here was the fact that the 5040 only shows perceived resolution of 4K pixels as opposed to 8K on the Sony. Also the fact that the XB1 S was able to output PC RGB and the Sony was able to handle it and appears to really shine with that when pairing with the XB1S. I could not duplicate that with the Philips, on either the Sony or the 5040. If I recall, I think I tried the XB1S with PC RGB on the 5040, but the wireless Tx couldn't accept it. Maybe I will try what ndabunka suggested and use the wired connection to see what that gives me.




Wasn't a criticism of you mate, just an observation that it would be beneficial for people to be able to easily compare projectors in the same demo room somewhere close to home


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

gnolivos said:


> Lol that's ironic what you posted. You went ballistic. Are your screenshots from the projector? Yes they are. Why you thought I was referring to you? Must be your water.
> 
> In all seriousness I was referring to the guy posting several posts above where he CLEARLY is posting a picture from his PLAYER OR AVR.


Oh LOL!  We are living on an old WWII test range where Navy ships used to shell the area from the ocean as target practice, so maybe there IS something in our water! 

I don't see those. Do you have links? Do you mean mine when I replied to someone else telling me to show that I was getting 4K24p 4:4:4 HDR bt2020 from my Philips, which I was and posted a picture to prove it to him so he could see I wasn't just "flailing around in my menus"?:laugh:

this one?


----------



## gnolivos

Oh gosh. Yes. I'm not paying enough attention. I thought that image was meant to prove the Epson was processing 4:4:4. LOL. It's admittedly hard to keep up. And i should have quoted the post or image for clarity.


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

Dave Harper said:


> What were your settings on the Sony? Did you have anything similar to what I posted? If not, then you wouldn't see what I see now on it.


As I said, all were calibrated and that's why they looked much the same in the most part - as they should. Resolution played little difference as the difference is very small. WCG made a more visible difference, as did contrast and black level. 



Dave Harper said:


> My thoughts are that HDR isn't quite there yet for projectors,


I think that's the general consensus.



Dave Harper said:


> ...
> After I did this, it was quite easy to see the resolution difference between them, WITH moving scenes, not static!


Resolution is less visible during motion anyway, so static images will always be easier to tell resolution differences. It's easier to hit a stationary target for example, rather than a moving one, especially when it's on a random trajectory.



Dave Harper said:


> Don't believe me? Grab a 5040/6040 and a Sony 300/350ES, install my settings and tweak slightly as needed for your environment, watch the opening scene, ch 15 and a few others from Revenant and THEN come back and tell me what you saw!


Maybe if you'd set them up the same as the guy who calibrated these (and JVC Z1 recently), that would remove any advantage you thought the Sony had - I'd be inclined to stick with calibrated images. There is another guy who posts her called Bandyka and he too was a big Sony fan until he saw the Epson LS10000 and he now has one of those and has sold the Sony. 

That's not to say that the 4k Sony's don't produce a good image, because they do - when all correctly set up all the projectors mentioned produce fantastic images that would all look good in isolation and most people would be happy with, but when put up against each other in split screen and all at D65 with calibrated gamuts, you find that the resolution of the Sony is the least important part of the image. Higher contrast and WCG all have a more visible difference (it was the only way to accurately tell them apart, not the resolution when being presented with two pjs of the three without being told which was which), which is why the Sonys look way overpriced. I think I'd go with the 5040 over the 320 for example, but would prefer the contrast of the JVC if they were the same price. The Epson laser had the best image of them all though, but costs more money.

One recent test using an HTPC and MadVR scaling produced pretty much identical results on the Sony as on the eshifted JVC or Epson (can't remember which it was right now) and they provided pictures to prove it. It was done by Javs with Bandyka, and was the reason why Bandy changed his mind about the Sony. I don't have the link to the thread to hand, but a search might bring it up.


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

Dandlj said:


> What do you mean image noise/little noisy?



Moving pixels on the JVC that weren't there on the other projectors, so it looked a little more digital. The most obvious scene was where the girl released the T-Rex near the end of the movie (Jurassic World), and had a red glow stick in her hand - there was image 'noise' from the red glow that wasn't present on the Sony or Epson. It could have been due to the JVC being brighter (even with the iris at -15 it had a raised black level compared to the Epson Laser), but I wasn't able to measure the fL to see what the white point was.



Dandlj said:


> It's a shame everyone can't get the same comparison in a store nearby as it would remove a lot of conjecture and people could decide with their own eyes


I completely agree. Luckily for me, this guy is the Chromapure distributor for the UK and knows calibration better than most, so is able to get the best out of a projector. Having more than one on at once to produce side by side split screen images from the same source gives you an immediate comparison without having to rely on memory so you can spot differences much easier.

For me, the only weakness of the 5040 is it's contrast and black level compared to some of the other pjs.


----------



## LondonBenji

Dave Harper said:


> Are you talking to ME? It is OF COURSE the "projector menu"!!!


Why are you so angry? I'm trying to have a discussion with you and you're flying off the handle irrationally. Let's break it down again because I think you're misunderstanding what I'm saying.

1. You posted this picture claiming that WirelessHD adds more capability:










And while you're not technically wrong in terms of the WirelessHD adding more _input _capabilities. According to Epson's own manual which you posted, you're not gaining anything extra in terms of what you're actually getting from the _output _to/of the projector. To clarify, I'm not saying you can't _input_ 4:4:4 10 and 12bit with the WirelessHD transmitter, I'm just saying that by what Epson says on that same page, that it's processed down to 4:2:2 10bit when output.

2. You then posted this so as to possibly demonstrate that I'm somehow wrong maybe? I'm not sure.










Now since I don't have the projector I wasn't sure if they'd changed the usual Epson menu system style (I have a 3500) hence why I was asking, I wasn't sure if that signal information was from the perspective of the source or from the projector itself. Now that I know through your somewhat childish screaming that it's from the player, which makes sense as the WirelessHD transmitter presents itself at being 4:4:4 10/12bit capable, so the player uses that.

3. You also posted an irrelevant analogy to these projectors actually being 4k as they are only 1080p. It's irrelevant because they aren't just any normal 1080p projector so your analogy doesn't fit.

4. You then posted these tiny images that I have no idea what they say and is clearly a different menu system to the first one you posted, which now I know to be the source and I personally recognise these as actually being the Epson menu system since I own a 3500, and proclaimed that of course they are from the projector contradicting what was previously posted.



Dave Harper said:


> What the heck is in the water around here at AVS lately??? So many naysayers, just to be contrarians or something!
> 
> Why do people seem to NEVER put forth the time and effort to read and comprehend what was written BEFORE replying with a bunch of hogwash that doesn't even pertain to what was posted? This explains a lot in our society nowadays, such short attention spans and lack of attention to detail.


I think you need to take a step back, let your red mist disperse and calm down. Realise that perhaps you are projecting here and that perhaps you are the one that needs to take a little more time to read and comprehend what I am saying. Calling me a naysayer implies I have some sort of ulterior motive to try and discredit the capabilities of this projector? What exactly would I gain by doing that? How does that benefit me?

Now maybe the Epson menu pictures you finally posted show the signal information and also state the same 4:4:4 10/12bit input while using the WirelessHD transmitter and that's cool but you can't blame people for questioning it since it would contradict what Epson's _very own manuals_ say is possible that YOU posted.

Now have a beer or something and go and enjoy your projector.


----------



## Dave Harper

Gary Lightfoot said:


> As I said, all were calibrated and that's why they looked much the same in the most part - as they should. Resolution played little difference as the difference is very small. WCG made a more visible difference, as did contrast and black level.
> 
> I think that's the general consensus.
> 
> Resolution is less visible during motion anyway, so static images will always be easier to tell resolution differences. It's easier to hit a stationary target for example, rather than a moving one, especially when it's on a random trajectory.
> 
> Maybe if you'd set them up the same as the guy who calibrated these (and JVC Z1 recently), that would remove any advantage you thought the Sony had - I'd be inclined to stick with calibrated images. There is another guy who posts her called Bandyka and he too was a big Sony fan until he saw the Epson LS10000 and he now has one of those and has sold the Sony.
> 
> That's not to say that the 4k Sony's don't produce a good image, because they do - when all correctly set up all the projectors mentioned produce fantastic images that would all look good in isolation and most people would be happy with, but when put up against each other in split screen and all at D65 with calibrated gamuts, you find that the resolution of the Sony is the least important part of the image. Higher contrast and WCG all have a more visible difference (it was the only way to accurately tell them apart, not the resolution when being presented with two pjs of the three without being told which was which), which is why the Sonys look way overpriced. I think I'd go with the 5040 over the 320 for example, but would prefer the contrast of the JVC if they were the same price. The Epson laser had the best image of them all though, but costs more money.
> 
> One recent test using an HTPC and MadVR scaling produced pretty much identical results on the Sony as on the eshifted JVC or Epson (can't remember which it was right now) and they provided pictures to prove it. It was done by Javs with Bandyka, and was the reason why Bandy changed his mind about the Sony. I don't have the link to the thread to hand, but a search might bring it up.


I know that and it's all well and good and I agree, but if they didn't use the settings and signals that I did and THEN calibrate it, the results are all moot. That's like pushing the gas and the brake pedal at the same time on the Sony 350 because you're self limiting it to the same signal that the other projector is getting. If you'd have read my posts, you'd see I changed what the Sony is getting because it's apparently capable of resolving more parameters using the PC-RGB output setting in the XB1S, which may also provide better tone mapping or something, helping it as well. If I use the Philips player, yes they are closer to the same, but that isn't the point here, is it? If the Sony has more capabilities than the 5040, then of course I am going to use each device to it's MAXIMUM potential when doing a comparison, no? We certainly wouldn't compare a 1080p projector with a 4K unit and say _"hey, since the 1080p one can only accept a 1080p signal, lets only send that signal to both projectors and then say they are equal when being compared!"_

In this case, WCG did NOT win out since the 5040 was offered it and the Sony was not, yet the Sony still blew away the 5040. I agree, it was the contrast and black level of the Sony that did it, because the HDR signal on the 5040 screws with those things and limits what it can do, but NOT on the Sony when fed the PC-RGB signal from the XB1S and using the settings I have now posted on numerous occasions that no one here seems to want to try themselves (if they have the same gear, which I would think someone in the world would since I posted this in the Sony 300/350ES thread too).

I will say this for the LAST time. Anyone is MORE THAN welcome to come by and see for themselves, or fly me there and have the same equipment there for me to set this up and show you all personally. Anything other than that, then you either take my word for it, or not. It doesn't effect ME in the least if you do because at least "I" and any clients that hire me to do the same will be enjoying this and seeing what can make this thing really sing with UHD BRDs. I would love to get my hands on a 365ES or higher to see what more they could possibly do as well.

I am done speaking of this unless my further testing on the 5040 reveals more than I've seen so far. If you have questions or comments, please make sure to actually READ my posts up until this point and comprehend what it is that I have done here. Thanks!


----------



## ndabunka

Dave Harper said:


> The settings are in the pictures I attached


Yep, I saw those and that was why I asked about the Gamma2 as that was in those images which you then said that you later turned off so I thought that perhaps you had a different set of parameters.



Dave Harper said:


> Deep Color is ANY color gamut with more than a billion colors, so it applies to SD and UHD Blurays and other sources. It's basically anything above the 8 bit color gamut, like 10, 12, 16 bits, etc.


Yep, also familiar with the technical definition. My statement was that there have been a number of "discussions" about whether or not it should be turned on or off when using HDR.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, street price it's about 2 times the 6040, but that's kind of the point of this. The 350es is older gen, just before HDR and the like were totally hashed out and manufacturers weren't making anything with it yet really. The 5040 is the latest gen. We all know as technology ages it gets cheaper. If the 350es were released now it would probably be about $5K.
> 
> As ndabunka points out below, I wanted to see (and also thought it a good experiment and comparison, since I couldn't find any online) what the differences would be between a faux-k WITH the latest tech, HDR and P3/DCI, Rec2020 vs a higher "quality" full 4K machine without those newer technologies.
> 
> Ya know, What would be the more important thing to have if one was making that decision today, which I am!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that's true. It doesn't support HDR and only has a little higher than bt709 color gamut (maybe 70% of P3 iirc).
> 
> I did try some new settings again today on the 5040 and still no dice. I did get it to close the gap some though using "*Dynamic*" setting and then tweaking back some of the overblown settings it uses. I tried connecting the Philips directly to the wireless tx and used the hdmi audio out to the receiver. Same result, and to answer a previous question about me "flailing about in the menus" or some such BS, *I AM getting full HDR rec 2020 4:2:2 12 bit on the Philips when I do this.*
> 
> I'll go try those settings you suggested ndabunka and let you know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry, but what if I own both? Does that still make me an "owner"? I think I am bringing some very valuable info to this thread don't you? I'm not like those JVC folks you guys seem to hate that barge in here spouting JVC propaganda without even owning or maybe even seeing and testing the Epsons.


You can't get HDR Rec2020 in dynamic mode? You can get HDR Rec2020 in digital cinema mode.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Gary Lightfoot said:


> I've seen the 5040, JVC RS400, Epson LS1000 and Sony 520 side by side in a split screen set up, with them all being calibrated, and in mixed scenes you can't really tel them apart with SDR. The biggest difference was contrast and black level capability, and with the JVC, image noise.
> 
> With HDR the Sony was only marginally better on resolution, and that was mostly in static scenes. With motion it was very difficult to tell them apart. WCG went to the 5040.
> 
> Of them all, the best image came from the *Epson LS10000 which also had the best black levels.* The 5040 was very similar but lacked the contrast/black floor. The JVC looked a little noisy and being quite bright had a raised black floor (*the pjs weren't brightness matched*). The Sony didn't excel anywhere and was considerably overpriced IMHO.


I was about to post that something was not right with the projector set up, when I read LS10000 had the best black level, then I read the part about projectors, not brightness matched. They should have been brightness matched.


----------



## Mike Garrett

ndabunka said:


> LOL!
> I know but others on here were complaining about HDR not being bright enough (for them) so I agreed to provide some ways that I saw to address the issue. I did not use the gamma but using the brightness to compensate for the naturally darker screen does help and it retains the P3 color range. Of course, one could simply forgo any of that and simply run it in BRIGHT CINEMA and also get a perfectly bright enough image but then they loose the P3. Just giving everyone options out there.


Using just the 5040, you can't get SDR and Rec2020. You would have to use a device like the HD Fury Integral.


----------



## Mike Garrett

ndabunka said:


> I am perfectly fine using Digital Cinema without ANY of the configurations I outlined in my original post on this subject. But then again I also have a very dark HT so I may be able to view a lower lumen UHD and be "just fine" whereas others may need some help.
> 
> I was just trying to offer others who needed more illumination some ways to achieve it while retaining the P3 filter. I get it, you think any or all or all of these things are the equivalent of performing Hari Kari on the image displayed. I think we got that message. Hope your day gets better.
> 
> I don't 'recommend' stripping off the HDR for SDR representation but apparently others want to do that with the HD Fury....for some odd reason.


Yes digital cinema is the mode you need to use, if you want HDR and Rec2020.


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> I completely understood your "intent", but you misunderstood what hard switching it to the actual signal selection does in the projector apparently.


Don't be absurd. I know exactly what it does which is why I wanted to see your INFO screen in order to validate that INPUT matches OUTPUT. For someone who claims to be so adept, you sure can't seem to see the forest for the trees.


----------



## Dave Harper

LondonBenji said:


> Why are you so angry? I'm trying to have a discussion with you and you're flying off the handle irrationally. Let's break it down again because I think you're misunderstanding what I'm saying.
> 
> 1. You posted this picture claiming that WirelessHD adds more capability:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And while you're not technically wrong in terms of the WirelessHD adding more _input _capabilities. According to Epson's own manual which you posted, you're not gaining anything extra in terms of what you're actually getting from the _output _to/of the projector. To clarify, I'm not saying you can't _input_ 4:4:4 10 and 12bit with the WirelessHD transmitter, I'm just saying that by what Epson says on that same page, that it's processed down to 4:2:2 10bit when output.
> 
> 2. You then posted this so as to possibly demonstrate that I'm somehow wrong maybe? I'm not sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now since I don't have the projector I wasn't sure if they'd changed the usual Epson menu system style (I have a 3500) hence why I was asking, I wasn't sure if that signal information was from the perspective of the source or from the projector itself. Now that I know through your somewhat childish screaming that it's from the player, which makes sense as the WirelessHD transmitter presents itself at being 4:4:4 10/12bit capable, so the player uses that.
> 
> 3. You also posted an irrelevant analogy to these projectors actually being 4k as they are only 1080p. It's irrelevant because they aren't just any normal 1080p projector so your analogy doesn't fit.
> 
> 4. You then posted these tiny images that I have no idea what they say and is clearly a different menu system to the first one you posted, which now I know to be the source and I personally recognise these as actually being the Epson menu system since I own a 3500, and proclaimed that of course they are from the projector contradicting what was previously posted.
> 
> I think you need to take a step back, let your red mist disperse and calm down. Realise that perhaps you are projecting here and that perhaps you are the one that needs to take a little more time to read and comprehend what I am saying. Calling me a naysayer implies I have some sort of ulterior motive to try and discredit the capabilities of this projector? What exactly would I gain by doing that? How does that benefit me?
> 
> Now maybe the Epson menu pictures you finally posted show the signal information and also state the same 4:4:4 10/12bit input while using the WirelessHD transmitter and that's cool but you can't blame people for questioning it since it would contradict what Epson's _very own manuals_ say is possible that YOU posted.
> 
> Now have a beer or something and go and enjoy your projector.


I'm not angry, just frustrated that so many pop in here clearly saying things that aren't what I posted or have said I have done. It's not you specifically, so sorry. I posted ALL of those images well before and many times now because of this, so it wasn't like I just posted them to reply to you or your post. It was merely confirmation.

1. Adding more signals that a device can accept IS adding more "capability" over the alternative, which is wired which can't accept those, period. Yes you ARE gaining because you're starting with higher head room in the signal at 12bit 4:4:4, so even if it scales it down to 4:2:0 10bit, it has more information to work with to create that image. Why do you think mastering houses that create "reference" quality DVDs, Blurays, UHD BRs, etc. always try to get the highest quality source material like the Master tapes/files/film to use to start with? Remember "SuperBit DVDs"?

I only posted one of those manual pages btw. I think ndabunka posted the other one. (I'll check)

2. I posted that to show that the player (Philips) is outputting it's highest quality. See previous #1 reply.

3. My analogy wasn't irrelevant at all. In fact it's the same. The 5040 is capable of "accepting" a 4K image, yet it "down converts" it to display on the 5040's 1080p eShift system. That's essentially the same as what you're saying is done with the higher level 4:4:4 signal being "accepted" but "down converted" by the wireless transmitter to the projector. That is the analogy I was making.

4. Sorry, those images were taken and sent from my cell phone, which must have shrunk them on the upload. I can try to send higher resolution ones so they're bigger and more legible. I posted those images and screen shots at different times and for completely different reasons, so not sure where you're going with that? They don't contradict each other in the least. One is showing what the source is sending, the others are showing the proper settings and what to DO with that source signal to get the best possible image on screen. SO I am confused on your reply, sorry.

Manuals have indeed been known to be wrong and undocumented features on electronics devices that even the manufacturer didn't know about have been discovered from time to time. Maybe that's the case here, idk. I will have to hook it back up tonight and give it a look see so our curiosity can be quelled. I don't personally recall what the 5040 was reporting as being input to be honest. I will soon enough though.

Cheers!


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> Don't be absurd. I know exactly what it does which is why I wanted to see your INFO screen in order to *validate* that INPUT matches OUTPUT. For someone who claims to be so adept, you sure can't seem to see the forest for the trees.


The only one being absurd was you for asking the question, which if you understood wouldn't have asked.

.....and exactly who are YOU that I owe some sort of validation to? I don't know you from Adam either, so I have absolutely NOTHING to prove to you anyway. Either try my settings on the same equipment and THEN post from a knowledgeable stance, or move along. I have stated many times before your post what I was getting, sending and what my settings were. Whether you care to believe them or not is YOUR problem.


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> The only one being absurd was you for asking the question, which if you understood wouldn't have asked.


You're some random person on the Internet to me and probably everyone here. I don't know what gives you the impression that your reputation should precede you. None of your conduct in this thread has given me any cause to believe otherwise.


----------



## Dave Harper

Mike Garrett said:


> You can't get HDR Rec2020 in dynamic mode? You can get HDR Rec2020 in digital cinema mode.


Yes, I know. I was merely stating that I had the Philips outputting the full signal, which was in question by someone else. As posted by others and I think some reviews, they are changing to Bright Cinema, losing the P3 Filter, just so they can achieve more brightness which this projector needs more than WCG, to look acceptable. It's a trade off decision one may make with the 5040/6040 if they're using a larger, lower gain screen in maybe a non-batcave environment. I just figured I would try it with "Dynamic" mode and tame down it's effects to see if I could enhance that even more, knowing that the P3 filter would be sacrificed. The results were pretty good and brought it very close to the image I was getting with the Sony 350ES.


----------



## LondonBenji

Dave Harper said:


> I'm not angry, just frustrated that so many pop in here clearly saying things that aren't what I posted or have said I have done. It's not you specifically, so sorry. I posted ALL of those images well before and many times now because of this, so it wasn't like I just posted them to reply to you or your post. It was merely confirmation.
> 
> 1. Adding more signals that a device can accept IS adding more "capability" over the alternative, which is wired which can't accept those, period. Yes you ARE gaining because you're starting with higher head room in the signal at 12bit 4:4:4, so even if it scales it down to 4:2:0 10bit, it has more information to work with to create that image. Why do you think mastering houses that create "reference" quality DVDs, Blurays, UHD BRs, etc. always try to get the highest quality source material like the Master tapes/files/film to use to start with? Remember "SuperBit DVDs"?
> 
> 3. My analogy wasn't irrelevant at all. In fact it's the same. The 5040 is capable of "accepting" a 4K image, yet it "down converts" it to display on the 5040's 1080p eShift system. That's essentially the same as what you're saying is done with the higher level 4:4:4 signal being "accepted" but "down converted" by the wireless transmitter to the projector. That is the analogy I was making.


That makes sense in that regard, thank you for the insight.



Dave Harper said:


> 4. Sorry, those images were taken and sent from my cell phone, which must have shrunk them on the upload. I can try to send higher resolution ones so they're bigger and more legible. I posted those images and screen shots at different times and for completely different reasons, so not sure where you're going with that? They don't contradict each other in the least. One is showing what the source is sending, the others are showing the proper settings and what to DO with that source signal to get the best possible image on screen. SO I am confused on your reply, sorry.
> 
> Manuals have indeed been known to be wrong and undocumented features on electronics devices that even the manufacturer didn't know about have been discovered from time to time. Maybe that's the case here, idk. I will have to hook it back up tonight and give it a look see so our curiosity can be quelled. I don't personally recall what the 5040 was reporting as being input to be honest. I will soon enough though.


Awesome, thank you for checking, I appreciate it. The more I see posted about the 5040, the more I'm kicking myself for not paying more attention to "faux-K" projectors and just springing for the extra money over my 3500. 



Dave Harper said:


> Cheers!


Beers on me! Cheers!


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> You're some random person on the Internet to me and probably everyone here. I don't know what gives you the impression that your reputation should precede you. None of your conduct in this thread has given me any cause to believe otherwise.


And I really don't care what the hell you think. I am enjoying this and only post my findings for the betterment of all here to also try to maximize what they spent lots of hard earned money for. So take it or leave, I KNOW what I am capable of and have done to my signals and display devices here and that's all that matters to me. Not your rambling on and contrarian demeanor. I have been on this forum almost since it began and helped design and field award winning projectors and scalers at CES and CEDIA, but whether that reputation precedes me or not, I could give two sh*ts whether you knew it or not! If "time served" is all that matters in this thread or forum, then I sure would love to see Stacey Spears, Joel Silver and the like pop in here and see how you react to them!


----------



## Black Banshee

*5040 3D Printed Shell*

On a lighter note… 

So I had my heart set on the 6040 model because I wanted a black case to match my home theater black and blue theme. When I learned the 6040 was basically identical to the 5040 except the black color, I thought this really wasn’t worth the extra $1000 to me (I already have a ceiling mount and the spare lamps aren’t that expensive). Next I wondered if I could remove the case and paint it, but that would void the warranty, so I wondered if I could design and 3D print a “shell” for the 5040. I’m always looking for challenging 3D design projects, so that’s what I did:

The 5040 sticks out like a sore thumb in my dark black/blue theater:











Now with my shell:



























It has cutouts for the rear connector panel, lens, IR ports, vent fans, status lights, and an access door for the controls on the side. I was worried if this shell might overheat the projector, so I also added numerous thermal vent holes and thus far the shell only gets a little warm even after multiple hours of use (note I am running on ECO mode and hanging from the ceiling, so I’m not sure if heat could be a problem with higher power modes or if it is sitting on a shelf). 



















I put it on Thingiverse in case someone else wants to give it a go: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1850814 

Fair warning, this is not a quick thing to print and I’d only advise someone try it if they have good 3D printing experience (took ~70 hours of printing on my printer). I had to break it into 23 separate parts to print on a typical 3D printer with a 200mm cube print volume. Takes about 2 kg of plastic. 










I’m very pleased with the results and with the money I “saved”, I can now buy a PS4 Pro and Xbox One S! Hope it might help out another adventurous AVSer.

You could use this even if you have a 6040 and want a special color to match your décor (just print in that plastic color or paint it).

I’ve got a few more ideas to pimp out this design, so stay tuned.


----------



## Dave Harper

LondonBenji said:


> That makes sense in that regard, thank you for the insight.
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome, thank you for checking, I appreciate it. The more I see posted about the 5040, the more I'm kicking myself for not paying more attention to "faux-K" projectors and just springing for the extra money over my 3500.
> 
> 
> 
> Beers on me! Cheers!


Come here ya big lug!


----------



## ndabunka

Mike Garrett said:


> Using just the 5040, you can't get SDR and Rec2020. You would have to use a device like the HD Fury Integral.


Yep, I see that now. I had thought that changing the parameters on the Projector was changing them on the ingress but now realize that was an error due to my limited knowedge of this platform.


----------



## Dandlj

Black Banshee said:


> On a lighter note…
> 
> 
> 
> So I had my heart set on the 6040 model because I wanted a black case to match my home theater black and blue theme. When I learned the 6040 was basically identical to the 5040 except the black color, I thought this really wasn’t worth the extra $1000 to me (I already have a ceiling mount and the spare lamps aren’t that expensive). Next I wondered if I could remove the case and paint it, but that would void the warranty, so I wondered if I could design and 3D print a “shell” for the 5040. I’m always looking for challenging 3D design projects, so that’s what I did:
> 
> 
> 
> The 5040 sticks out like a sore thumb in my dark black/blue theater:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with my shell:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has cutouts for the rear connector panel, lens, IR ports, vent fans, status lights, and an access door for the controls on the side. I was worried if this shell might overheat the projector, so I also added numerous thermal vent holes and thus far the shell only gets a little warm even after multiple hours of use (note I am running on ECO mode and hanging from the ceiling, so I’m not sure if heat could be a problem with higher power modes or if it is sitting on a shelf).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put it on Thingiverse in case someone else wants to give it a go: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1850814
> 
> 
> 
> Fair warning, this is not a quick thing to print and I’d only advise someone try it if they have good 3D printing experience (took ~70 hours of printing on my printer). I had to break it into 23 separate parts to print on a typical 3D printer with a 200mm cube print volume. Takes about 2 kg of plastic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I’m very pleased with the results and with the money I “saved”, I can now buy a PS4 Pro and Xbox One S! Hope it might help out another adventurous AVSer.
> 
> 
> 
> You could use this even if you have a 6040 and want a special color to match your décor (just print in that plastic color or paint it).
> 
> 
> 
> I’ve got a few more ideas to pimp out this design, so stay tuned.




Awesome work


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

Black Banshee said:


> On a lighter note…
> 
> So I had my heart set on the 6040 model because I wanted a black case to match my home theater black and blue theme. When I learned the 6040 was basically identical to the 5040 except the black color, I thought this really wasn’t worth the extra $1000 to me (I already have a ceiling mount and the spare lamps aren’t that expensive). Next I wondered if I could remove the case and paint it, but that would void the warranty, so I wondered if I could design and 3D print a “shell” for the 5040. I’m always looking for challenging 3D design projects, so that’s what I did:
> 
> The 5040 sticks out like a sore thumb in my dark black/blue theater:


5, 4, 3, 2.......
Yes, that IS the countdown to the post where someone who doesn't have a 3D printer asks you what you would charge them to print one of these for them....


----------



## WynsWrld98

Black Banshee said:


> The 5040 sticks out like a sore thumb in my dark black/blue theater:


OMG your ceiling is out of this world! Did you have someone install it or DIY? Curious total cost for this. I know it's off topic but I am just blown away.


----------



## ndabunka

WynsWrld98 said:


> OMG your ceiling is out of this world! Did you have someone install it or DIY? Curious total cost for this. I know it's off topic but I am just blown away.


Why don't you check out the details in his thread. You know, the one linked in his signature...
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...-banshee-home-theater-gaming-lair-thread.html


----------



## WynsWrld98

Deleted


----------



## Ronman79

Dave Harper said:


> Seriously still hanging on this, huh?
> 
> All I did was put the 5040 in BT2020 mode so it would ensure it didn't "automatically" switch off of it while I was doing my setup, plus I did it for the screen shots I was taking of the menus so people could SEE what mode to make sure it's in when I posted said pictures. It doesn't change a lick what the Philips is giving me, which WAS INDEED (as I have stated already in my last reply to you!) sending me the proper 2160p HDR BT2020 4:2:2 12 bit signal! Get off it already and actually read what others are writing, open your mind and get past what you WANT to believe. I KNOW what I am doing here and have been doing it since 1987! Here's your damned screen shot, sheesh, now move on already!
> 
> BTW, NONE of my previous screen shots were for "quality" purposes, they were to show you what settings I was using so others could try to duplicate. Screen shots are completely worthless anyway. Who the hell knows what display they're being viewed on, much less the million other factors involved in what the end user is seeing.
> 
> You are certainly welcome to come visit beautiful Hawaii and stop by to see this first hand for yourself. Or you can get hold of your own 5040/6040 and a Sony 350, an XB1 S and then put in my EXACT SETTINGS and tweak for your setup and see this yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> Try using my settings that I posted with images from last night.
> 
> I heard the opposite on the wireless, that it allows MORE options to come through than the wired, but I will try it anyway, just to quiet the naysayers.
> 
> You guys DO realize what selecting it on the PROJECTOR/DISPLAY DEVICE is doing right? That doesn't change one iota what the source, in this case the Philips UHD BR, is sending you. That ONLY changes what mode the projector is in. If you mismatch them, then the image is messed up. If you select the SAME ONE THAT'S BEING SENT, all is fine! (which I did and told you why previously, so as not to have the projector changes modes while I was setting up and adjusting it)


Please chill out.... 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Ronman79 said:


> Please chill out....
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Already have....


----------



## Ronman79

Deleted


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> Please tell me that you are joking, right?
> 1) You don't realize that he linked to his theater (1st oversight)
> 2) I tired to "gently" guide you to take your off-topic discussion to the appropriate place
> 3) Then when you realize that you might actually need to spend some of YOUR precious time finding the details, you then act like it's OUR fault? Please! Give me a break
> 
> If you are interested in how he did it, THAT thread is the appropriate place to pursue it.
> You might also want to learn how to use the SEARCH features provided by this forum which provides you the ability to put keywords (like CEILING) for that thread and and go directly to similar comments from others asking the same thing.
> 
> _Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime._


No, I've never looked at anyone's links, never noticed that they exist. ndabunka: I don't know if you realize this but many of your posts come off condescending, know it all (and often you are proven WRONG with things you state as 100% fact) and I'd rather you NOT respond to anything I ever post on AVSForum. You post here non-stop and I cringe when I see posts from you due to having notifications turned on. Sorry I got excited about the star ceiling and made a short comment/question about it which you turned into a LONG post/rant.


----------



## Ronman79

Black Banshee said:


> On a lighter note…
> 
> 
> I’ve got a few more ideas to pimp out this design, so stay tuned.


That's freaking awesome! Congrats, and kudos to you. However, that's outside feasibility for me.... 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

WynsWrld98 said:


> No, I've never looked at anyone's links, never noticed that they exist. ndabunka: I don't know if you realize this but many of your posts come off condescending, know it all (and often you are proven WRONG with things you state as 100% fact) and I'd rather you NOT respond to anything I ever post on AVSForum. You post here non-stop and I cringe when I see posts from you due to having notifications turned on. Sorry I got excited about the star ceiling and made a short comment/question about it which you turned into a LONG post/rant.


People, people, people..... We all need to CHILL! Why don't we all just talk about what we enjoy about this wonderful hobby of ours, instead of scaring away less thick-skinned posters who are are probably coming here to do just that.
@ndabunka, he has a point. I held back from saying something earlier, but I'll politely agree. Give helpful input (which you do) and play nice.  Why can't we be friends...  

It's a wonderful world of fun forums and electronics, and nobody likes a Debbie (or Dougie) Downer! Lol.... Seriously, I'm sticking around because I want to learn as much about these new projectors as I can. From all of you. And I think a lot is trial and error, possible updates, and adaptation.... 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Waboman

Holy cow. Good thing I brought my kevlar vest. Lol. It's like the old format wars in here.


----------



## Waboman

ana_moo_ana said:


> My 5 years old RS40 died few months ago after several bulb failures. Pretty happy so far with this one.


Glad to hear you're enjoying your new pj. The optical block is going on my JVC. I've had two vertical lines for awhile now. My kids say, "dad, what are those lines on the screen?" "They're part of the movie. Now pipe down and eat your popcorn."


----------



## ac388

ndabunka said:


> Let me know if you find these as well for you as they do me. The equipment is as listed in my signature so yes, this is based on the Phillips & the 5040ub.


Noted with thanks. Upon checking, the Philips 7501 is not being sold here in Hong Kong. Wonder if it will be available in London, where I will go this December ???


----------



## rogermoore123

Trying not to wake the sleeping bears but - if uhd is 10bit 4:2:0 then wouldn't it be better for the player to output as close as possible to that. Otherwise you would be converting up then back down in the projector - unnecessary processing. Outputting higher than required would also stress your cable or wireless connection and possibly effect picture quality.
Do any of the players output the correct signal even though its not a hdmi spec ?


----------



## chiltonj

@Black Banshee - Beautiful!! Great job! 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

There is a 5:1 *****-to-information ratio going on here. Can we all please calm down ? I'm all for subscribing to the thread and providing useful information. The amount of bitching we need to weed through is overwhelming. Please. Thanks.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Black Banshee said:


> I’m very pleased with the results and with the money I “saved”, I can now buy a PS4 Pro and Xbox One S! Hope it might help out another adventurous AVSer.
> 
> You could use this even if you have a 6040 and want a special color to match your décor (just print in that plastic color or paint it).
> 
> I’ve got a few more ideas to pimp out this design, so stay tuned.


Fantastic.
How about earning some money as well by selling it o fellow AVSers.
Many of the 5040 owners may jump on the opportunity .


----------



## covsound1

hello iam an owner of the great 5040. dont want to start a tag war but i have notice all 4k hdr movies not equal black levels and color density. this pj is not plug and play like a 4k tv or updated to handle this new format. with that said you have the controls to get it done. what ever mode you are using try to change the offset down one or two clicks do not use extended range. your picture will pop just like sdr . i have no problems with dark hdr now hell i have to control light output lol. note my screen high contrast 2.8 white 120 phillips 4k bd pioneer 801 cinnamon hdmi cables.


----------



## c.kingsley

rogermoore123 said:


> Trying not to wake the sleeping bears but - if uhd is 10bit 4:2:0 then wouldn't it be better for the player to output as close as possible to that. Otherwise you would be converting up then back down in the projector - unnecessary processing. Outputting higher than required would also stress your cable or wireless connection and possibly effect picture quality.
> Do any of the players output the correct signal even though its not a hdmi spec ?


You're absolutely right. I made this statement in one of these two threads almost a month ago. It was noted that the HDMI spec doesn't support that signal natively so the player must perform conversion from disc to transport. It is definitely less than ideal.


----------



## rogermoore123

c.kingsley said:


> You're absolutely right. I made this statement in one of these two threads almost a month ago. It was noted that the HDMI spec doesn't support that signal natively so the player must perform conversion from disc to transport. It is definitely less than ideal.


Would everyone agree then that 10bit 4:2:2 is the next best output setting for a uhd player as opposed to a higher one ?


----------



## c.kingsley

I attempted these settings on Oblivion UHD.

- Digital Cinema mode
- Brightness 40
- Contrast 100
- Color Saturation 60
- Tint 50
- Power High
- Gamma 2
- HDMI Video Range - Expanded
- HDR 1

These result in obvious blooming, visible easily on shots of the sky in Oblivion. The contrast is pushed way too far. It looks acceptable if the contrast is turned down to 65 and brightness raised to 48-50 or so with Gamma at 1. I prefer the lamp on Medium or ECO. I ended up watching the entire movie. Many of the early scenes are quite dim, like the scene with a single candle between Jack and Victoria. That candle is _very_ bright though. As the movie proceeds, the scenes of the deserts outdoors and the cabin by the lake pop off the screen. The colors in the scene with Morgan Freeman lighting his cigar, with Jack visible in his glasses, are out of this world.


----------



## Black Banshee

aaranddeeman said:


> Fantastic.
> How about earning some money as well by selling it o fellow AVSers.
> Many of the 5040 owners may jump on the opportunity .


If I had time I'd print them for everyone 

However with a 2 year old and 2 month old and a grumpy wife and a day job, I'm lucky I got the time to print mine. 

There are a number of online printing services (example 3dhubs.com) someone might try, but I myself haven't used them.

I did this for myself as a hobby, and I do hope it helps someone else.


----------



## ndabunka

aaranddeeman said:


> fantastic.
> How about earning some money as well by selling it o fellow avsers.
> Many of the 5040 owners may jump on the opportunity .


...1 lol!


----------



## ndabunka

rogermoore123 said:


> Would everyone agree then that 10bit 4:2:2 is the next best output setting for a uhd player as opposed to a higher one ?


If you read in the UHD thread you will learn that 10-bit 4:2:0 is what UHD BluRay's are encoded at. However, in order to send them out of the player, they must support one of the HDMI specs as shown in the attached graphic. 10-bit 4:2:2 is not a supported HDMI specification so it can't be used as you are suggesting.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> There is a 5:1 *****-to-information ratio going on here. Can we all please calm down ? I'm all for subscribing to the thread and providing useful information. The amount of bitching we need to weed through is overwhelming. Please. Thanks.


My vote for most ironic post of the day:laugh:


----------



## rogermoore123

ndabunka said:


> If you read in the UHD thread you will learn that 10-bit 4:2:0 is what UHD BluRay's are encoded at. However, in order to send them out of the player, they must support one of the HDMI specs as shown in the attached graphic. 10-bit 4:2:2 is not a supported HDMI specification so it can't be used as you are suggesting.


I was thinking a player might be able to output it as the other epson table says it accepts it as an input.


----------



## ndabunka

rogermoore123 said:


> I was thinking a player might be able to output it as the other epson table says it accepts it as an input.


What alternate transport medium to HDMI are you proposing to use?


----------



## rogermoore123

ndabunka said:


> What alternate transport medium to HDMI are you proposing to use?


I thought a pc could output that - anyway I would like to back up a bit. On some samsung/tv forums they state they get banding when going too high on the player color output over uhd.


----------



## ndabunka

*My updated settings*

As most of you are already aware, I started my calibration efforts based off the EXCELLLENT Sound & Vision calibration recommendations that include the following parameters based on their recommendations:
*Settings
*
Color mode	Cinema *
Brightness	44
Contrast 46
Color Saturation	50
Tint 50
 
*Sharpness*

Standard	6
Thin Line Enhancement	8
Thick Line Enhancement	6

*Image Enhancement*
4K Enhancement	On
Image Preset mode	Preset 1
Noise Reduction	2
MPEG Noise Reduction	1

*Super-resolution*

Fine Line Adjust	1
Soft Focus Detail	1
 
*Detail Enhancement*

Strength	5
Range	15

*Color Temperature	Customized	*

R Gain	42
G Gain	47
B Gain	50
R Offset	47
G Offset	47
B Offset	47
Gamma	0
Epson Super White	Off
Lens Iris	-2
Power Consumption	ECO
Auto Iris	Normal
Aspect	Normal
Overscan	Off
HDMI Video Range	Expanded
Color Space	Auto
Dynamic Range	Auto
Image Processing	Fine

Read more at http://www.soundandvision.com/conte...projector-review-settings#fLBOBRqa75rGJxRA.99
& can be found here
http://www.soundandvision.com/conte...projector-review-settings#ZJfytHW8RgiMASHP.97

Here are my currect settings based on the changes recommended in this thread to bring the lumens up without removing the P3 filter. You will notice that my projector is connected via a hardwired HDMI cable so my transport is 12-bit 4:2:2 which is lower than Dave's wireless 12-bit 4:4:4 but as stated in the manual, both of those are converted back to 10-bit 4:2:2 within the projector

* I chose DIGITAL CINEMA as it provides more "pop" while retaining the P3 color space


----------



## Mike Garrett

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, I know. I was merely stating that I had the Philips outputting the full signal, which was in question by someone else. As posted by others and I think some reviews, they are changing to Bright Cinema, losing the P3 Filter, just so they can achieve more brightness which this projector needs more than WCG, to look acceptable. It's a trade off decision one may make with the 5040/6040 if they're using a larger, lower gain screen in maybe a non-batcave environment. I just figured I would try it with "Dynamic" mode and tame down it's effects to see if I could enhance that even more, knowing that the P3 filter would be sacrificed. The results were pretty good and brought it very close to the image I was getting with the Sony 350ES.


I agree. A lot of people in this thread are very confused by the numbers. They see 1,800/1,900 lumens calibrated in Bright Cinema, but do not realize that is not a Rec709 calibrated number. But that number is being used to compare to other projectors that are calibrated to Rec709. This projector like all lamp based projectors loses quite a bit of lumens, the moment you put the P3 filter in place. This is why so many are going the SDR, 10 bit, Rec2020 no HDR route using the HD Fury Integral.


----------



## ndabunka

rogermoore123 said:


> I thought a pc could output that


..using an HDMI cable...see the difficulty in your proposition?



rogermoore123 said:


> anyway I would like to back up a bit. On some samsung/tv forums they state they get banding when going too high on the player color output over uhd.


Banding can be induced through a large number of variables including the BD Player & the AVR it is fed through before it even gets to the projector. The only banding issue that has come up in this particular thread was identified to have been caused by a Marantz AVR so we there do not currently appear to be banding issues on this projector so it is a bit off topic here in this thread.


----------



## rogermoore123

ndabunka said:


> ..using an HDMI cable...see the difficulty in your proposition?
> 
> 
> Banding can be induced through a large number of variables including the BD Player & the AVR it is fed through before it even gets to the projector. The only banding issue that has come up in this particular thread was identified to have been caused by a Marantz AVR so we there do not currently appear to be banding issues on this projector so it is a bit off topic here in this thread.


Ok no problems - just found out what I was asking - chroma upsampling too far can cause halos on some large displays when down sampling again.


----------



## exm

I finally replaced my 6040UB replacing my 3020. I'm sure going from 4,000 lamp hours to 0 hours helps, but I can't help to be in shock how much better the picture looks (and I haven't even seen any 4k material). It's also wonderful to have a motorized lens.

Anyway, besides the extra lamp, the ceiling mount (which I'll sell), the black color (looks awesome) and the cable cover: does the 6040 have any other benefits over the 5040?


----------



## Ronman79

Projector Central updated their review from earlier (which was of a pre-production model).....

http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review.htm


----------



## Dave Harper

rogermoore123 said:


> *Trying not to wake the sleeping bears but* - if uhd is 10bit 4:2:0 then wouldn't it be better for the player to output as close as possible to that. Otherwise you would be converting up then back down in the projector - unnecessary processing. Outputting higher than required would also stress your cable or wireless connection and possibly effect picture quality.
> Do any of the players output the correct signal even though its not a hdmi spec ?


ROAR!!!! 










Interesting thought though......hmmmm. I doubt it would stress your cables or wireless connection resulting in effected picture quality though, being digital, as long as the signal is acceptable and doesn't reach it's minimum "cliff" point, you'll get the full image in all it's glory. As discussed in follow on comments, the banding from chroma sub-sampling conversions could be an issue though.



c.kingsley said:


> I attempted these settings on Oblivion UHD.
> 
> - Digital Cinema mode
> - Brightness 40
> - Contrast 100
> - Color Saturation 60
> - Tint 50
> - Power High
> - Gamma 2
> - HDMI Video Range - Expanded
> - HDR 1
> 
> These result in obvious blooming, visible easily on shots of the sky in Oblivion. The contrast is pushed way too far. It looks acceptable if the contrast is turned down to 65 and brightness raised to 48-50 or so with Gamma at 1. I prefer the lamp on Medium or ECO. I ended up watching the entire movie. Many of the early scenes are quite dim, like the scene with a single candle between Jack and Victoria. That candle is _very_ bright though. As the movie proceeds, the scenes of the deserts outdoors and the cabin by the lake pop off the screen. The colors in the scene with Morgan Freeman lighting his cigar, with Jack visible in his glasses, are out of this world.


That is close to what I tried last night with very good results that bring it ever so close and in some ways (brighter with more punch due to higher lumens) than the 350ES. I backed something down (don't remember what compared to yours) some so I didn't get the blooming/white crush you mentioned.

This result came so close to what I was raving about with the 350ES with XB1S on PC RGB that it's making me second guess returning the 5040. This is mainly due to it's 1080p performance, which it is stellar at, and what I of course watch most.....for now. The 350ES does have what I call just a more natural looking image in all modes, but it loses the brightness punch and "sparkle" of the 5040. I just have to decide which tradeoff and advantage is more important than the other. Do I keep the ever so slightly more natural and image depth of the 350ES, or the HDR BT2020 with brightness punch to rival a flat panel of the 5040?......dang this is hard!  Maybe resell value came be a factor too?

Here's my latest settings using the Philips UHD BR on the 5040:

*Digital Cinema
*Bright 40
*Contrast 90 (or as needed in your environment, same with Brightness)
*Color Sat 60
*Tint 65
*Power High
*Auto Iris (tried both off and on, off seemed to open it up more, but on gave deeper blacks in some scenes at the expense of punch factor)
*Gamma 2 (Seemed to bring out the details more due to brightness lowering when engaging the P3 filter and HDR1)
*Lens Iris 0
*HDMI Video Range "Expanded"
*Color Space BT2020
*Dynamic Range HDR Mode 1

My input signal from the Philips was 216p24 12 Bit 4:2:2 BT2020 HDR2

Let me know if anyone tries this and what you think. 



ndabunka said:


> If you read in the UHD thread you will learn that 10-bit 4:2:0 is what UHD BluRay's are encoded at. However, in order to send them out of the player, they must support one of the HDMI specs as shown in the attached graphic. 10-bit 4:2:2 is not a supported HDMI specification so it can't be used as you are suggesting.





rogermoore123 said:


> I was thinking a player might be able to output it as the other epson table says it accepts it as an input.


It can be supported at 60Hz/Fps though. It does say YCbCr 4:2:0 is supported in HDMI V2.0, 2.0a and 2.1, according to the below chart. I'm wondering if they mean just the 60Fps though?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Version_comparison


----------



## JewDaddy

Well I definitely have a small blue dust blob on the bottom of the picture when watching dark content. I'm way out of the 30 day return policy or replacement window. Is there anything that I can easily do to remove this dust blob? I tried blowing some air in the front vents and obviously did nothing. Still wanted to try anyways. Any suggestions?


----------



## Ronman79

JewDaddy said:


> Well I definitely have a small blue dust blob on the bottom of the picture when watching dark content. I'm way out of the 30 day return policy or replacement window. Is there anything that I can easily do to remove this dust blob? I tried blowing some air in the front vents and obviously did nothing. Still wanted to try anyways. Any suggestions?


Very unfortunate...have you contacted Epson? Maybe they'd take care of it.


----------



## JewDaddy

Ronman79 said:


> Very unfortunate...have you contacted Epson? Maybe they'd take care of it.


Not yet. I was hoping there was an easy way or trick I could try to use can air to fix it.


----------



## ndabunka

exm said:


> I finally replaced my 6040UB replacing my 3020. I'm sure going from 4,000 lamp hours to 0 hours helps, but I can't help to be in shock how much better the picture looks (and I haven't even seen any 4k material). It's also wonderful to have a motorized lens.
> 
> Anyway, besides the extra lamp, the ceiling mount (which I'll sell), the black color (looks awesome) and the cable cover: does the 6040 have any other benefits over the 5040?


Additional calibration settings are available on the 6040


----------



## ndabunka

Dave Harper said:


> ROAR!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is close to what I tried last night with very good results that bring it ever so close and in some ways (brighter with more punch due to higher lumens) than the 350ES...This result came so close to what I was raving about with the 350ES with XB1S on PC RGB that it's making me second guess returning the 5040. This is mainly due to it's 1080p performance, which it is stellar at, and what I of course watch most.....for now. The 350ES does have what I call just a more natural looking image in all modes, but it loses the brightness punch and "sparkle" of the 5040.


Have you had the chance to change the COLOR TEMP & SKIN TONES settings I mentioned previously for the 5040? Try setting them to ZERO and you just may end up with that "more natural looking image" to go along with the rest of it. I prefer 2 & 1 right now but might experiment with others. I would LOVE to learn what your high calibration tools end up indicating as the best image once you get around to it.


----------



## LumensLover

Is dynamic mode on the 5040ub that far off in terms of color balance? I have a zero edge 120" Screen Innovations Black Diamond 1.4 gain screen and I need as much brightness as possible. This screen soaks up alot of brightness.

I just returned a Sony HW45ES. It was just too dim in eco mode when used with the Black Diamond. I was hoping the 5040ub would give me at least 2000 lumens in dynamic mode on medium setting. Im willing to give up some color accuracy within reason.

I am also willing to have dynamic mode calibrated, however the lumens claims in the different reviews of the 5040ub/6040ub are all over the place.

I dont know which review to trust.


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> That is close to what I tried last night with very good results that bring it ever so close and in some ways (brighter with more punch due to higher lumens) than the 350ES. I backed something down (don't remember what compared to yours) some so I didn't get the blooming/white crush you mentioned.


As an aside have you had time to run through the Panel Alignment menu yet? My alignment was off from the factory. To anyone who may be unaware: this menu allows very granular control of R/B alignment in general and then individually by quadrant. It is a great feature and not too difficult to use.


----------



## Mike Garrett

exm said:


> I finally replaced my 6040UB replacing my 3020. I'm sure going from 4,000 lamp hours to 0 hours helps, but I can't help to be in shock how much better the picture looks (and I haven't even seen any 4k material). It's also wonderful to have a motorized lens.
> 
> Anyway, besides the extra lamp, the ceiling mount (which I'll sell), the black color (looks awesome) and the cable cover: does the 6040 have any other benefits over the 5040?


Extra year of warranty, ability to do vertical stretch and extra calibration controls, if you are having it ISF calibrated.


----------



## djkms

Hello all,

Thanks for all the insight and information in this thread. I have waded through the 75 pages as best as possible but just want to verify what I learned.
For Xbox One S - in order to get HDR working I need to get a HDFury until M$ patches the Xbox to fix this (fat chance), correct? Really looking to game in 4k HDR (I understand this projector is not native 4k).

Best player without any mods/etc for UHD HDR playback would be the Phillips BDP7501 correct?

I bought a 65" Samsung UHD TV back in 2014 and love it but its not HDR. Looking to either get this projector (with 125" screen) or a Samsung 65" KS9800. I understand the tradeoffs, huge screen not as good HDR or phenomenal HDR with much smaller screen. I had a 110" Optoma HD25e a few years back and loved it. Really thinking of getting back into projection home theater.

For those who have been able to compare this projectors HDR to a flat screen HDR does it even come close? From reading this thread it looks like there is still a lot of kinks to work out with HDR for projectors.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Kris


----------



## covsound1

djkms said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Thanks for all the insight and information in this thread. I have waded through the 75 pages as best as possible but just want to verify what I learned.
> For Xbox One S - in order to get HDR working I need to get a HDFury until M$ patches the Xbox to fix this (fat chance), correct? Really looking to game in 4k HDR (I understand this projector is not native 4k).
> 
> Best player without any mods/etc for UHD HDR playback would be the Phillips BDP7501 correct?
> 
> I bought a 65" Samsung UHD TV back in 2014 and love it but its not HDR. Looking to either get this projector (with 125" screen) or a Samsung 65" KS9800. I understand the tradeoffs, huge screen not as good HDR or phenomenal HDR with much smaller screen. I had a 110" Optoma HD25e a few years back and loved it. Really thinking of getting back into projection home theater.
> 
> For those who have been able to compare this projectors HDR to a flat screen HDR does it even come close? From reading this thread it looks like there is still a lot of kinks to work out with HDR for projectors.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any responses.
> 
> Kris


i have a samsung sud8500 learned a lot about how hdr 4k can look! this pg can compete and even out shine the tv. hdr is not dark like people say just have to remember to lower your offsets in what ever modes you like. i often dont use di just adjust shutter to taste eco mode with hdr1 or 2 and can even run gamma at -2 on some movies and light up a 120 inch screen and it will pop just like my 65" tv. when making adjustments look at absolute black level in the film if you do not get the feeling of oled like blacks when called for your setting are off start over and fix that first. my buddy came over a vt60 owner and was blown away went home and told me he saw colors he just can not get on his set and his black levels where not as deep. hope this gives your food for thought.


----------



## covsound1

4k no hdr some light in room


----------



## Dave Harper

covsound1 said:


> i have a samsung sud8500 learned a lot about how hdr 4k can look! this pg can compete and even out shine the tv. hdr is not dark like people say just have to remember to lower your offsets in what ever modes you like. i often dont use di just adjust shutter to taste eco mode with hdr1 or 2 and can even run gamma at -2 on some movies and light up a 120 inch screen and it will pop just like my 65" tv. when making adjustments look at absolute black level in the film if you do not get the feeling of oled like blacks when called for your setting are off start over and fix that first. my buddy came over a vt60 owner and was blown away went home and told me he saw colors he just can not get on his set and his black levels where not as deep. hope this gives your food for thought.



Hmmmm, not really sure what to say here. Are we watching the same projector and comparing it to the same flat panels? 

HDR is pretty dark actually, hence the reason so many have to trick it out by using Bright Cinema and the like to get enough lumens and pop on the screen in HDR and Digital Cinema (P3 Filter) mode. 



covsound1 said:


> 4k no hdr some light in room



What do you mean by this? Are you saying that you didn't use HDR when talking about the above quoted comparison?


----------



## covsound1

Dave Harper said:


> Hmmmm, not really sure what to say here. Are we watching the same projector and comparing it to the same flat panels?
> 
> HDR is pretty dark actually, hence the reason so many have to trick it out by using Bright Cinema and the like to get enough lumens and pop on the screen in HDR and Digital Cinema (P3 Filter) mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean by this? Are you saying that you didn't use HDR when talking about the above quoted comparison?


no i didnt take a comparison pic just showing the pop it has. i will take more later on when i have time but can assure you i can get the same from hdr. that was my first time posting a pic ever, testing and learning how to do it.


----------



## WynsWrld98

covsound1 said:


> 4k no hdr some light in room


16:9 or 2.4:1 120" screen? what is the gain? what is the source of the Fifth Element in HDR?


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

rogermoore123 said:


> Ok no problems - just found out what I was asking - chroma upsampling too far can cause halos on some large displays when down sampling again.


This is a 1080p projector with faux-K, and since UHD Blurays are 2160p at 420 which is, once downscaled to 1080p, 444, there is less "haloing" than a 1080p Bluray can offer, and equivalent to a native 1080p RGB signal coming from a PC.

Haloing is more related to luma resolution, and is typically more related to FALD TVs that have very, very low resolution LED backlight arrays compared to the static resolution. The diagonal pixel shifting only affects luma resolution since the chroma won't change much during shifting since there is only 1080p chroma res. Depending on the upscaling technique used, it could look sharper but AFAIK most displays use bilinear upscaling because there is no possibility of ringing. If they use anything else, it's likely bicubic which can have minor artifacts but remember, this is only truly a 1080p display and those artifacts will be masked by the fact that it's not true 4K, more like 2.5K. 

It's highly dubious that video signals which are highly compressed to begin, have as a limiting factor on sharpness the 1/2 chroma resolution. Much more likely to be limited by bitrate budget, even on a UHD Bluray. Bitrate (and various encoding settings) matters a whole lot, to some extent even more than luma resolution (let alone chroma resolution). Several respected industry people I've read here and elsewhere, have said they'd prefer a 1080p stream with the same bitrate as a 2160p stream, because that same bitrate would be used to have less macroblock and other artifacts. And that applies not only to streaming, but to UHD Blurays too. There is a limited bitrate budget and it would take a lot to even come close to saturating what HEVC 2160p at 420 can offer, let alone 444 at 2160p.


----------



## covsound1

WynsWrld98 said:


> 16:9 or 2.4:1 120" screen? what is the gain? what is the source of the Fifth Element in HDR?


that was not hdr amazon 4k uhd ruku or samsung 4k player playing through pioneer 801 receiver with cinnamon hdmi cables. made note of cable because i was using monster 18g cables very strong in density but less clean than the audoquest . on enhancement 3 max for monster with audoquest could take it to 5 with the same artifacts. my screen is a 120 high contrast 2.8 16:9 . i was going to change it to a mate white or alr screen but really have to look hard for artifacts compared to the pop it gives me. only negative pg has to be on eye level or it just becomes a regular white 1.1 screen. this may be one reason i dont find hdr dark. but even sitting at a hard angle i dont notice much of a difference in the picture. years ago i had a firehawk 1.8gain screen with a high contast at the time sony pg it was a very dark grey with speckles at the time the contrast and blacks pop really well . i step up to a 1080p sony wp50 the firehawk could not match the resolution . and i saw artifacts more had to replace it. this screen can handle high resolution and give you 2.8 gain.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

covsound1 said:


> made note of cable because i was using monster 18g cables very strong in density but less clean than the audoquest .




will the HDMI brand makes a difference on picture quality & sound? thought they are digital either on or off.


----------



## covsound1

ana_moo_ana said:


> will the HDMI brand makes a difference on picture quality & sound? thought they are digital either on or off.


yes it does. did not think so but i saw the difference on both the pj and tv . also found out older cables can pass 12 bit 444 with no problems. with the monsters you will say bold and rich with the audoquest your reaction would be clear and detail. 4k and eshift 4k works better with audoquest and 1080p looks richer monster. yes i know we are talking 1 and zeros but i see it.


----------



## MaximTre

djkms said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Thanks for all the insight and information in this thread. I have waded through the 75 pages as best as possible but just want to verify what I learned.
> For Xbox One S - in order to get HDR working I need to get a HDFury until M$ patches the Xbox to fix this (fat chance), correct? Really looking to game in 4k HDR (I understand this projector is not native 4k).
> 
> Best player without any mods/etc for UHD HDR playback would be the Phillips BDP7501 correct?
> 
> I bought a 65" Samsung UHD TV back in 2014 and love it but its not HDR. Looking to either get this projector (with 125" screen) or a Samsung 65" KS9800. I understand the tradeoffs, huge screen not as good HDR or phenomenal HDR with much smaller screen. I had a 110" Optoma HD25e a few years back and loved it. Really thinking of getting back into projection home theater.
> 
> For those who have been able to compare this projectors HDR to a flat screen HDR does it even come close? From reading this thread it looks like there is still a lot of kinks to work out with HDR for projectors.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any responses.
> 
> Kris


You are in my nearly the same situation I was. Here some info based on my direct experience:
- I upgraded my 2014 Samsung Tv (55hu7500) with the Evolution Kit (sek-3500), now it's hdr compatible. It was a very worthy upgrade, you should consider it
- in addition I bought a 65ks7000 (ks8000 in us)
- I experienced hdr for months on those screens, so I'm used to bright hdr
- I bought the 9300W with the specific purpose of getting a picture as close to the ks8000 as I could get
- bought the wireless version as the wireless part has a different controller than the wired part, more compatible (in fact, it's a full band one, but it limited by the wireless signal). There's a teardown on a german site.
- as a result, the samsung player and the xbox s didn't activate hdr (in movies) using wired connection, but the activated it withe the wireless one. There was an update for the samsung, it works now in hdr in the wired connection too (no update for xbox, so no change)
- even using the wireless, no hdr gaming on the xbox. As the xbox is looking for a full band port, is doesn't activate the flag for hdr gaming (4k/60hz). Using the linker, the flag is activated, it works with both wired and wireless. According to the linker, input signal is 4k/60hz/4:2:0/10bit/HDR, the same is the output (I set 10 bit in the xbox). The epson converts 10bit to 8bit, but it doesn't really matter, as the input original input is 8bit (no true 10bit rendering for the xbox). Without the linker the signal is exactly the same, but without hdr, that's why I believe it' just a flag.
- about hdr. As I said I have the ks8000 as reference (which is VERY good for hdr). I find the epson to be really really really good. BUT I use a 90", 2.8 gain screen, in a light controller room, with black painted wall (to control screen reflection). The point of hdr is not to have a bright image, but to have an image that can go up and down in brightness a lot more than sdr, so there's no point on messing up with brighteness to have a generally bright image, as the projector won't have lumen to go high when needed, and you will miss the lows too. So brighteness is the key, and the epson has a lot of birghtness. But you need to adjust you screen projection area. With my setup I can use digital cinema mode (but with high lamp, it's mandatory), but I'm pretty sure with a larger or lower gain screen I wouldn't be able. 
With larger screens, bright cinema is a must, as brighteness (from the lamp, not from the settings) is the key for hdr. If for some reason you can't get enough brightess, striping hdr with linker or integral is a good idea, as you will take the "high and low" out of the equation. Sure you will miss hdr, it's not the same at all, but I think some setups will need that.
- about wcg. dci cover is really good. sure digital cinema has a really nice 100% dci coverage, and 100% is always better than 99% or 98% and so on, but giving up the full dci cover (granted by the digital cinema setting) it's not a tragedy, bright cinema cover it's good too, as good as many other projectors
- about quality in general. I really believe in the right conditions this projector has really amazing hdr/wcg picture quality. Really amazing. And that's compared to the samsung ks8000. I miss the true 4k resolution, but that's ok for what I paid. So go on and buy it!


----------



## Dave Harper

covsound1 said:


> no i didnt take a comparison pic just showing the pop it has. i will take more later on when i have time but can assure you i can get the same from hdr. that was my first time posting a pic ever, testing and learning how to do it.



Oh sorry. That's weird. There were no pictures that were there when I read your post initially but now there are. They look very nice! The 5040/6040 does look very nice when the HDR and P3 filter are disengaged, I agree. I look forward to those too.


----------



## Dave Harper

covsound1 said:


> ....... hdr is not dark like people say just have to remember to lower your offsets in what ever modes you like. ........



So you're saying we should go into our grayscale settings and adjust the offsets? Are you doing that with a meter? Sounds interesting. Can you share your settings/numbers as a starting point for us?


----------



## Dave Harper

covsound1 said:


> that was not hdr amazon 4k uhd ruku or samsung 4k player playing through pioneer 801 receiver with cinnamon hdmi cables. made note of cable because i was using monster 18g cables very strong in density but less clean than the audoquest . on enhancement 3 max for monster with audoquest could take it to 5 with the same artifacts. my screen is a 120 high contrast 2.8 16:9 . i was going to change it to a mate white or alr screen but really have to look hard for artifacts compared to the pop it gives me. only negative pg has to be on eye level or it just becomes a regular white 1.1 screen. this may be one reason i dont find hdr dark. but even sitting at a hard angle i dont notice much of a difference in the picture. years ago i had a firehawk 1.8gain screen with a high contast at the time sony pg it was a very dark grey with speckles at the time the contrast and blacks pop really well . i step up to a 1080p sony wp50 the firehawk could not match the resolution . and i saw artifacts more had to replace it. this screen can handle high resolution and give you 2.8 gain.



Well, a 2.8 high gain screen, of course that explains it. 

Not sure what you're trying to say about the cables. If they're both high speed 18 gig of "to spec" quality, then your review of "more artifacts" in one over the other confuses me, unless one has some sort of defect. If the digital bits get there without loss or jitter, etc. then the images should be identical.


----------



## Dave Harper

covsound1 said:


> yes it does. did not think so but i saw the difference on both the pj and tv . also found out older cables can pass 12 bit 444 with no problems. with the monsters you will say bold and rich with the audoquest your reaction would be clear and detail. 4k and eshift 4k works better with audoquest and 1080p looks richer monster. yes i know we are talking 1 and zeros but i see it.



Hogwash!


----------



## aaranddeeman

covsound1 said:


> *yes it does*. did not think so but i saw the difference on both the pj and tv . also found out older cables can pass 12 bit 444 with no problems. with the monsters you will say *bold and ri*ch with the audoquest your reaction would be *clear and detail*. 4k and eshift *4k works better with audoquest* and *1080p looks richer monster*. yes i know we are talking 1 and zeros but i see it.


Sorry. But there goes your credibility to the drain..


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> ......The epson converts 10bit to 8bit, but it doesn't really matter, as the input original input is 8bit (no true 10bit rendering for the xbox). ...........
> 
> 
> - about hdr. As I said I have the ks8000 as reference (which is VERY good for hdr). I find the epson to be really really really good. BUT I use a 90", 2.8 gain screen, in a light controller room, with black painted wall (to control screen reflection)...........
> 
> But you need to adjust you screen projection area. With my setup I can use digital cinema mode (but with high lamp, it's mandatory), but I'm pretty sure with a larger or lower gain screen I wouldn't be able.
> 
> 
> With larger screens, bright cinema is a must, as brighteness (from the lamp, not from the settings) is the key for hdr. ............



Oh wow, can you show more info or links regarding the XBox limited to 8 bit? That's the first I'm hearing that. 

Of course, another 2.8 gain screen. I don't think the normal home theater owner uses those, so I guess it needs to be bought with this projector as a package to get the best HDR performance.

"......you need to adjust you screen projection area......."
- so you mean I need to make my picture smaller on my nice large cinematic screen that I use to simulate the local cineplex?  I think NOT!

I am able to use Digital Cinema on my 133" screen. I can adjust settings and keep HDR BT2020 without having to use a Bright Cinema.


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> Oh wow, can you show more info or links regarding the XBox limited to 8 bit? That's the first I'm hearing that.


I tested the xbox with the ks8000 (full 10bit panel), switiching xbox setting (8bit, 10bit, 12bit).
There's no difference at all, there's visible banding in Forza Horizon 3 (mostly in the sky), it's not difficult to notice, even the loading screen has banding, it'clearly an 8 bit signal.
I don't think the xbox has the power for 10bit rendering, but that's ok, we still have 2020 tone mapping and hdr.
What came a suprise, xbox signal is 4:2:0 all the time, I assumed it was 4:4:4.
Ps4 is RGB, limited or full, 12 bit (deep color setting on auto). It's 8bit for hdr gaming (one and only game supported, Deus Ex), even if the Ps4 outputs 12bit (it's all about tone mapping and hdr for the ps4 too).
All the info are taken by the linker.



Dave Harper said:


> so you mean I need to make my picture smaller on my nice large cinematic screen that I use to simulate the local cineplex?  I think NOT!
> I am able to use Digital Cinema on my 133" screen. I can adjust settings and keep HDR BT2020 without having to use a Bright Cinema.


Sorry if I wasn't clear, I don't imply anything, I was just assuming larger screens needed more light from the lamp, but every setup has his own settings.
I have a "small" screen as I am forced by the projection wall, I would have gone bigger.


----------



## c.kingsley

After watching Creed and Oblivion UHD (Digital Cinema, P3 engaged) my experience so far is that HDR is dim. I don't know if that is a grading problem on the media or an internal metadata mapping problem that might be corrected with firmware. The RS400s have been tuned a fair amount since release. But beyond that, I don't think either one of these transfers shows off the capability of the display.

Go to Youtube and watch "4k snow monkeys" or "4k costa rica" in Cinema mode. I think that is a clear example of what this PJ is capable of when HDR is not involved. After watching these, I'm inclined to be more curious about what result might be achieved with the upcoming Oppo or an HDFury to strip HDR. Also I'd like to find some UHDs that are sourced from 4k intermediates. I think Creed and Oblivion are both 2k DI.

Also check that your firmware is 105/103 which is the latest. Unfortunately the download page for this firmware is currently unavailable.


----------



## Ronman79

c.kingsley said:


> Unfortunately the download page for this firmware is currently unavailable.


Maybe they're preparing for another update!


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> I am able to use Digital Cinema on my 133" screen. I can adjust settings and keep HDR BT2020 without having to use a Bright Cinema.


Are your final settings the ones posted previously or have you refined further? I'm shooting 126" currently but will be dropping to 120" to fit the screen I just purchased. I like it at 126, so if I don't like the result I will probably buy another larger than 126" and not fill the screen. What screen are you using for 133"?


----------



## c.kingsley

Ronman79 said:


> Maybe they're preparing for another update!


I wouldn't hold out hope. It looks like they are migrating from an older website to a new look.


----------



## ndabunka

c.kingsley said:


> After watching Creed and Oblivion UHD (Digital Cinema, P3 engaged) my experience so far is that HDR is dim. I don't know if that is a grading problem on the media or an internal metadata mapping problem that might be corrected with firmware. The RS400s have been tuned a fair amount since release. But beyond that, I don't think either one of these transfers shows off the capability of the display.
> 
> Go to Youtube and watch "4k snow monkeys" or "4k costa rica" in Cinema mode. I think that is a clear example of what this PJ is capable of when HDR is not involved. After watching these, I'm inclined to be more curious about what result might be achieved with the upcoming Oppo or an HDFury to strip HDR. Also I'd like to find some UHDs that are sourced from 4k intermediates. I think Creed and Oblivion are both 2k DI.
> 
> Also check that your firmware is 105/103 which is the latest. Unfortunately the download page for this firmware is currently unavailable.


Of COURSE native 4K HDR is dim. It is the SAME on EVERY projector until you customize the settings as shown in tihs thread (if you want to retain the P3 filter) or by simply changing to bright cinema and also making a few minor adjustments


----------



## filter_sweep

MaximTre said:


> You are in my nearly the same situation I was. Here some info based on my direct experience:
> - I upgraded my 2014 Samsung Tv (55hu7500) with the Evolution Kit (sek-3500), now it's hdr compatible. It was a very worthy upgrade, you should consider it
> - in addition I bought a 65ks7000 (ks8000 in us)
> - I experienced hdr for months on those screens, so I'm used to bright hdr
> - I bought the 9300W with the specific purpose of getting a picture as close to the ks8000 as I could get
> - bought the wireless version as the wireless part has a different controller than the wired part, more compatible (in fact, it's a full band one, but it limited by the wireless signal). There's a teardown on a german site.
> - as a result, the samsung player and the xbox s didn't activate hdr (in movies) using wired connection, but the activated it withe the wireless one. There was an update for the samsung, it works now in hdr in the wired connection too (no update for xbox, so no change)
> - even using the wireless, no hdr gaming on the xbox. As the xbox is looking for a full band port, is doesn't activate the flag for hdr gaming (4k/60hz). Using the linker, the flag is activated, it works with both wired and wireless. According to the linker, input signal is 4k/60hz/4:2:0/10bit/HDR, the same is the output (I set 10 bit in the xbox). The epson converts 10bit to 8bit, but it doesn't really matter, as the input original input is 8bit (no true 10bit rendering for the xbox). Without the linker the signal is exactly the same, but without hdr, that's why I believe it' just a flag.
> - about hdr. As I said I have the ks8000 as reference (which is VERY good for hdr). I find the epson to be really really really good. BUT I use a 90", 2.8 gain screen, in a light controller room, with black painted wall (to control screen reflection). The point of hdr is not to have a bright image, but to have an image that can go up and down in brightness a lot more than sdr, so there's no point on messing up with brighteness to have a generally bright image, as the projector won't have lumen to go high when needed, and you will miss the lows too. So brighteness is the key, and the epson has a lot of birghtness. But you need to adjust you screen projection area. With my setup I can use digital cinema mode (but with high lamp, it's mandatory), but I'm pretty sure with a larger or lower gain screen I wouldn't be able.
> With larger screens, bright cinema is a must, as brighteness (from the lamp, not from the settings) is the key for hdr. If for some reason you can't get enough brightess, striping hdr with linker or integral is a good idea, as you will take the "high and low" out of the equation. Sure you will miss hdr, it's not the same at all, but I think some setups will need that.
> - about wcg. dci cover is really good. sure digital cinema has a really nice 100% dci coverage, and 100% is always better than 99% or 98% and so on, but giving up the full dci cover (granted by the digital cinema setting) it's not a tragedy, bright cinema cover it's good too, as good as many other projectors
> - about quality in general. I really believe in the right conditions this projector has really amazing hdr/wcg picture quality. Really amazing. And that's compared to the samsung ks8000. I miss the true 4k resolution, but that's ok for what I paid. So go on and buy it!


Just to clarify, when you say "linker" are you referring to the HDFury Linker? So we don't need to get the Integral ($250) to strip HDR, just the Linker ($200) will suffice? Does the linker "remap" the HDR values to SDR values like everyone is hoping the Oppo will do?

I'm currently debating which UHD player and which gaming console to get, because money / value is part of the equation. Was hoping the PS4 Pro would have a UHD disk player, but even without it I'm still considering getting one for the higher resolution / more stable gaming experience. My worry though is I'd have to force a 1080p output on the PS4 Pro because the 5040 is going to choke on a 4k / 60fps / 4:4:4 / 10-bit signal (and who knows if the Pro will give options for chroma sampling). No one knows yet how much '1080p value' there will be with the PS4 Pro either, will be up to each developer to give some enhancements to the lower resolution mode. However, if the Linker works like you say it does, maybe I could use it to dither (might be wrong term) the 4:4:4 / 10-bit down to 4:2:0 / 8-bit for games that don't give any advantage to 1080p output. 

Then there's the UHD player question. Am tempted by the Oppo to keep BT2020 while dropping HDR, but that really only makes sense if using Digital Cinema (with P3 filter) on High lamp mode (I have to fill up a 150" 1.0 gain screen). However, if I get a Linker to use with the PS4 Pro, could I use the other input (it has 2) for the Phillips player, strip HDR and get close to the same results?

You know, I love this PJ but it really would have been nice if Epson had just put a 18gbs HDMI input chip in this thing, guarantee this thread would be half as long, so many less headaches.


----------



## covsound1

Dave Harper said:


> So you're saying we should go into our grayscale settings and adjust the offsets? Are you doing that with a meter? Sounds interesting. Can you share your settings/numbers as a starting point for us?


lol no Dave. i thinking about getting gear and learning i did this with audio as i design and make speakers. yes i agree hdr is darker as design and 2020 is an different animal. what i am talking about take for example the hdr4k tarzan looked washed out and flat compared star trek. the black levels looked hazzy and light and colors drop at least 50% even with hdr 1 and gamma set at +1 nothing like the 1080p dics. just dropping offsett rgb by eye allowed me to get a good picture. when my buddy stop by and i gave most of my 1080 p movies that with my 4k dics to him i was in shock to that my 4k dics looked like ****.


----------



## filter_sweep

And now it's my turn to make a small contribution to the body of knowledge. After many hours of experimentation with PC gaming comparing 1080p to 1440p, I can both surprisingly and confidently conclude that PC gaming at 1080p looks better on this PJ than 1440p (!). 

It's counter-intuitive, but I think it boils down to 2 reasons:
- 1440p requires 8 bit color, can't do 10 bit due to the Epson's limitations, whereas 1080p can do higher color. 
- Scaling. I think it's because the Epson is using 1080p chips, there's something about scaling up to 1440p (instead of all the way up to 4k) that just doesn't look right. Too many jaggies from what my eyes can see. There's an apparent increase in sharpness but it's not good sharpness, is the best way I can describe it. I think 4k looks great (very limited tests), but my PC can't run AAA games at 4k without coming to it's knees. 

The good news about this is that PC gaming on the 5040 at 1080p lets you turn everything up to Ultra and get great frame rates. The bad news is my $300 27" 1440p IPS Korean monitor that is 4 years old looks better for many games due to increased resolution and pixel density. Obviously a very different experience though... I work at a computer most of the day so I usually would rather kick back on the couch in the evenings than sit upright at my PC with my hands on a mouse and keyboard.

Another interesting note is regarding the "4k Enhancement" settings when PC gaming on the 5040. Whereas the higher settings (3-5) can make 1080p movies and TV look really good (depending on your tastes), I find they make a game way, way too artificial looking, which is also a surprise. It does something to the textures that looks noisy. I actually prefer the 4k enhancements settings of 1 or 2 with a PC game. 

So just to be clear, I'm very happy with the 5040 when PC gaming at 1080p, the image is fantastic and it's nice to kick back and game on a huge screen, but am genuinely surprised that sending the higher resolutions this PJ is capable of doesn't result in a better looking picture than good-ole 1080p, and actually looks worse.


----------



## covsound1

filter_sweep said:


> Just to clarify, when you say "linker" are you referring to the HDFury Linker? So we don't need to get the Integral ($250) to strip HDR, just the Linker ($200) will suffice? Does the linker "remap" the HDR values to SDR values like everyone is hoping the Oppo will do?
> 
> I'm currently debating which UHD player and which gaming console to get, because money / value is part of the equation. Was hoping the PS4 Pro would have a UHD disk player, but even without it I'm still considering getting one for the higher resolution / more stable gaming experience. My worry though is I'd have to force a 1080p output on the PS4 Pro because the 5040 is going to choke on a 4k / 60fps / 4:4:4 / 10-bit signal (and who knows if the Pro will give options for chroma sampling). No one knows yet how much '1080p value' there will be with the PS4 Pro either, will be up to each developer to give some enhancements to the lower resolution mode. However, if the Linker works like you say it does, maybe I could use it to dither (might be wrong term) the 4:4:4 / 10-bit down to 4:2:0 / 8-bit for games that don't give any advantage to 1080p output.
> 
> Then there's the UHD player question. Am tempted by the Oppo to keep BT2020 while dropping HDR, but that really only makes sense if using Digital Cinema (with P3 filter) on High lamp mode (I have to fill up a 150" 1.0 gain screen). However, if I get a Linker to use with the PS4 Pro, could I use the other input (it has 2) for the Phillips player, strip HDR and get close to the same results?
> 
> You know, I love this PJ but it really would have been nice if Epson had just put a 18gbs HDMI input chip in this thing, guarantee this thread would be half as long, so many less headaches.


like max i also have a 2.8 hc screen but it is 120inch. if i zoom down to 90 it outplays my 4k sam 8500 tv in eco mode. even in 120 it gives my tv a run for the money. glad to hear about the linker think i am going to order the combo pack and get both the fury and linker. i have read the fury can also remap hdr and strip hdr. for remapping i think you need software that is an extra 300$. still trying to get a handle on these toys!


----------



## filter_sweep

covsound1 said:


> like max i also have a 2.8 hc screen but it is 120inch. if i zoom down to 90 it outplays my 4k sam 8500 tv in eco mode. even in 120 it gives my tv a run for the money. glad to hear about the linker think i am going to order the combo pack and get both the fury and linker. i have read the fury can also remap hdr and strip hdr. for remapping i think you need software that is an extra 300$. still trying to get a handle on these toys!


Hmmm... I thought that $300 software was to "inject" HDR into a SDR signal, but honestly HDFury's website is not very clear about their various products capabilities when it comes to HDR remapping. The only reason I think it's possible with the Integral is because people on this forum talk about it like it is... you certainly wouldn't get that from their website. 

If that $300 software is required for the HDR remapping, then I think the better "value" would be to get the Oppo 203 when it comes out, send the PS4 Pro signal through the Oppo's HDMI input, and use the Oppo's anticipated capabilities to strip the HDR (if needed, maybe the PS4 Pro and/or Xbox Scorpio can do it on their own, doubtful though). Of course, no one knows if the Oppo will be able to specify the exact chroma sampling for a 60hz signal. 

Like I said, Epson could have probably avoided all of this headache with a part that probably wouldn't have been more than $50 (just a guess, I have no real idea). Maybe they lacked the foresight that gaming consoles would be pushing signals higher than 10.2 gbps in 2017, and that some UHD players would send a signal higher than 4:2:0 chroma?


----------



## covsound1

Dave Harper said:


> Hogwash!


i agree. but buy both and swap and tell me what you think.this also happen to me in audio usb cables and i said its just ones and zeros. had to bite the bullet and pay the money! as a tech guy hands on i do not like spending extra if i dont have too.


----------



## covsound1

aaranddeeman said:


> Sorry. But there goes your credibility to the drain..


yes in the drain! i agree just reporting what i see and trying to share so we all can get a better handle.


----------



## WynsWrld98

c.kingsley said:


> After watching Creed and Oblivion UHD (Digital Cinema, P3 engaged) my experience so far is that HDR is dim. I don't know if that is a grading problem on the media or an internal metadata mapping problem that might be corrected with firmware. The RS400s have been tuned a fair amount since release. But beyond that, I don't think either one of these transfers shows off the capability of the display.
> 
> Go to Youtube and watch "4k snow monkeys" or "4k costa rica" in Cinema mode. I think that is a clear example of what this PJ is capable of when HDR is not involved. After watching these, I'm inclined to be more curious about what result might be achieved with the upcoming Oppo or an HDFury to strip HDR. Also I'd like to find some UHDs that are sourced from 4k intermediates. I think Creed and Oblivion are both 2k DI.
> 
> Also check that your firmware is 105/103 which is the latest. Unfortunately the download page for this firmware is currently unavailable.


When people post things like this it would be really helpful to post things such as info about screen (size, ratio, gain), what picture mode you're in, what lamp mode (eco/med/high), what HDR mode, if you've attempted to calibrate for HDR, etc. Because to readers like me the comments about HDR on the 5040/6040 are all over the map and it's hard to know what to make of all of it.


----------



## aaranddeeman

covsound1 said:


> i agree. but buy both and swap and tell me what you think.this also happen to me in audio usb cables and i said its just ones and zeros. had to bite the bullet and pay the money! as a *tech guy hands on* i do not like spending extra if i dont have too.


This is even worse.
Being a tech guy are falling for the faux claims..
Anyways, enjoy..


----------



## chiltonj

covsound1 said:


> yes it does. did not think so but i saw the difference on both the pj and tv . also found out older cables can pass 12 bit 444 with no problems. with the monsters you will say bold and rich with the audoquest your reaction would be clear and detail. 4k and eshift 4k works better with audoquest and 1080p looks richer monster. yes i know we are talking 1 and zeros but i see it.


I didn't think people were still getting raped by the likes of Monster cables but apparently not. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> I tested the xbox with the ks8000 (full 10bit panel), switiching xbox setting (8bit, 10bit, 12bit).
> 
> There's no difference at all, there's visible banding in Forza Horizon 3 (mostly in the sky), it's not difficult to notice, even the loading screen has banding, it'clearly an 8 bit signal.
> 
> I don't think the xbox has the power for 10bit rendering, but that's ok, we still have 2020 tone mapping and hdr.
> 
> What came a suprise, xbox signal is 4:2:0 all the time, I assumed it was 4:4:4..........



Sorry, I'm not a gamer so can't test Forza. Is that a 4K UHD game? Have you considered the source or an intermediary receiver in between that could be causing the loss of the greater than 8 bit signal? The XB1S has 3 settings, one each for 8, 10 and 12 bit outputs, so why would they offer this if it can't output that signal? Could it be the game itself being limited to 8 bit and the banding is there already in the video/graphics and going to 10-12 bit just reproduces that since it can't create what's not there in the first place (added chroma info)? I have reported that I saw a little banding in a sky scene in Revenant sometime during my testing but thought maybe I rectified that in the course of my tweaking. I'll have to go back and recheck. 

I seem to show 4:4:4, 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 in the signal info screens of both the projectors I am evaluating here. Why are you saying XB1S can't output it?



c.kingsley said:


> Are your final settings the ones posted previously or have you refined further? I'm shooting 126" currently but will be dropping to 120" to fit the screen I just purchased. I like it at 126, so if I don't like the result I will probably buy another larger than 126" and not fill the screen. What screen are you using for 133"?



Yes I think the last post where I wrote them out instead of just showing screen grabs was the one I was referencing. There was actually two different ones where I saw a comparable image to the 350ES on the 5040, one with Bright Cinema and one keeping the P3 filter by using Digital Cinema. 

I'm using a Stewart StudioTek 130 1.3 gain screen. 



covsound1 said:


> lol no Dave. i thinking about getting gear and learning i did this with audio as i design and make speakers. yes i agree hdr is darker as design and 2020 is an different animal. what i am talking about take for example the hdr4k tarzan looked washed out and flat compared star trek. the black levels looked hazzy and light and colors drop at least 50% even with hdr 1 and gamma set at +1 nothing like the 1080p dics. *just dropping offsett rgb by eye allowed me to get a good picture. *when my buddy stop by and i gave most of my 1080 p movies that with my 4k dics to him i was in shock to that my 4k dics looked like ****.



Why did you say "lol no Dave" to my question and then contradict yourself later in the post *(bolded above)*? Dropping "offset rgb" IS going into the grayscale settings and dropping the offset, which should NOT be done without proper equipment. You can really screw up you grayscale image resulting in a poor picture. Well I guess it's ok on the Epson and others now that they expose these settings to the consumer menus and have a default setting to save inquisitive people. 

You really shouldn't do that though. Maybe play with gamma and other settings but I wouldn't mess with grayscale gains and offsets to fix this HDR dim issue personally. Who knows anymore, maybe I'll mess with it just to see for myself. Like I said there's a default to fix stupid people like me! 



covsound1 said:


> i agree. but buy both and swap and tell me what you think.this also happen to me in audio usb cables and i said its just ones and zeros. had to bite the bullet and pay the money! as a tech guy hands on i do not like spending extra if i dont have too.



Well you did, but you didn't have to. I think the marketing and sales made your brain WANT to think that, so it did. 

The only possible reason to spend more on cables is for build quality (RF rejection, jitter/timing errors, solder/connection point integrity, copper quality, corrosion resistance, etc) to ensure the signal gets to its destination as close to the same bit for bit quality as was input to it from the source.


----------



## covsound1

chiltonj said:


> I didn't think people were still getting raped by the likes of Monster cables but apparently not.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


thats not what i said.try both the monster and audioquest and see the difference for yourself.not a fanboy of ether just telling what i saw. before i got the pg i used the audioquest on my tv and took it back and got the monster cables. monsters where just denser with more pop. got the 5040 3 weeks ago along with the phillips bd payer and got the audioquest to compare. and with the monster i could go to enhancement 2 or3 before artifacts effected the picture.with the audioquest i was able to take it to 5. note this is with film base movies where you can see the grain in the flim.normaly i set it to 2 or 1.


----------



## gnolivos

Ok I'm gonna say it. Enough BS talk about cables.


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> I'm using a Stewart StudioTek 130 1.3 gain screen.


Thanks. If this 120" ends up feeling too small, I'll look into Stewart. I assume they custom made that 133" screen?


----------



## c.kingsley

covsound1 said:


> thats not what i said.try both the monster and audioquest and see the difference for yourself.


It's digital and therefore whether it works or not is binary (yes or no). The cable is either capable of 10.2gbps at the length you've installed or not. If it isn't the picture won't display. The quality of a cable may improve your odds of success over long distances but it doesn't do anything for the quality of what is seen on screen. That's a fact.


----------



## dvdwilly3

Be careful of what you wish for...everyone (me included...) is chasing the best picture possible...
And, for many, if not most, that includes HDR...but, I will argue "it ain't necessarily so..."...

Make whatever argument that you would like, but HDR is dim, even under the best of circumstances.
And, to be totally honest, I am not always a fan...

As an example, this is an article by one of the HDR gurus from Sony...

https://pro.sony.com/bbsccms/assets/files/cat/mondisp/articles/HDR_X300_explained.pdf

Read the article, look at the pictures, and arrive at your own conclusions.

Please understand, I am not trying to argue for SDR...I am just saying that HDR is not the only path for everyone...
As always YMMV...


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> Thanks. If this 120" ends up feeling too small, I'll look into Stewart. I assume they custom made that 133" screen?



It's one that I traded my 110" for a few years back when I did a job in Indiana. His Barn Loft theater had the classic barn sloped sides that he didn't account for when he ordered such a large screen. I was looking to upsize my screen and he needed CRT projector install help on his Electrohome Marquee 9500 and an ISF calibration, so it worked out for both of us. 

It's a giant 16x9 screen so what I do is mask off the bottom portion to create a 2.35:1 CinemaScope aspect ratio so I can do CIH (Constant Image Height) like in theaters.


----------



## Dave Harper

covsound1 said:


> that was not hdr amazon 4k uhd ruku or samsung 4k player playing through pioneer 801 receiver with cinnamon hdmi cables. made note of cable because i was using monster 18g cables very strong in density but less clean than the audoquest . on enhancement 3 max for monster with audoquest could take it to 5 with the same artifacts. my screen is a 120 high contrast 2.8 16:9 . i was going to change it to a mate white or alr screen but really have to look hard for artifacts compared to the pop it gives me. only negative pg has to be on eye level or it just becomes a regular white 1.1 screen. this may be one reason i dont find hdr dark. but even sitting at a hard angle i dont notice much of a difference in the picture. years ago i had a firehawk 1.8gain screen with a high contast at the time sony pg it was a very dark grey with speckles at the time the contrast and blacks pop really well . i step up to a 1080p sony wp50 the firehawk could not match the resolution . and i saw artifacts more had to replace it. this screen can handle high resolution and give you 2.8 gain.





covsound1 said:


> yes it does. did not think so but i saw the difference on both the pj and tv . also found out older cables can pass 12 bit 444 with no problems. with the monsters you will say bold and rich with the audoquest your reaction would be clear and detail. 4k and eshift 4k works better with audoquest and 1080p looks richer monster. yes i know we are talking 1 and zeros but i see it.





covsound1 said:


> i agree. but buy both and swap and tell me what you think.this also happen to me in audio usb cables and i said its just ones and zeros. had to bite the bullet and pay the money! as a tech guy hands on i do not like spending extra if i dont have too.


I was just thinking, are those cables active ones by chance, like the Redmere, etc.? Can you share the models you're comparing?


----------



## shelly40

I have been looking at the 5040UB....

I currently have a 5 year old 1080UB.....

Is the 50404UB a worthwhile upgrade in features and picture quality ?

Thanks for any input

Shelly


----------



## aaranddeeman

dvdwilly3 said:


> Be careful of what you wish for...everyone (me included...) is chasing the best picture possible...
> And, for many, if not most, that includes HDR...but, I will argue "it ain't necessarily so..."...
> 
> Make whatever argument that you would like, but HDR is dim, even under the best of circumstances.
> And, to be totally honest, I am not always a fan...
> 
> As an example, this is an article by one of the HDR gurus from Sony...
> 
> https://pro.sony.com/bbsccms/assets/files/cat/mondisp/articles/HDR_X300_explained.pdf
> 
> Read the article, look at the pictures, and arrive at your own conclusions.
> 
> Please understand, I am not trying to argue for SDR...I am just saying that HDR is not the only path for everyone...
> As always YMMV...



If those pictures in that article did not indicate so, I would have thought the HDR one is actually SDR and vice-versa.
So the take away from it seems, HDR will "seem" dark, but not actually is? Or we are not yet used to accept the HDR image on the screen.
Something like when you are used to blue pushed TV, it's hard to accept the D65 calibrated image.
The quest continues, I guess..


----------



## covsound1

Dave Harper said:


> I was just thinking, are those cables active ones by chance, like the Redmere, etc.? Can you share the models you're comparing?


monster platium 6feet and audioqeust cinnamon 6feet. some dont want to hear it so i wil bring it up again. below two pics first 1080p the second 4khdr.going back to my statment of me saying i dont feel hdr to dark.


----------



## aaranddeeman

covsound1 said:


> monster platium 6feet and audioqeust cinnamon 6feet. some dont want to hear it so i wil bring it up again. below two pics first 1080p the second 4khdr.going back to my statment of me saying i dont feel hdr to dark.


But I am understanding (slowly) is HDR is not just "bright" picture. It's a whole new ball game, in terms of details in the shadows, and highlights in bright scenes maintained as they should be in real like. It should be assisted with WCG. etc. etc.
Done right, it should be spectacular else you get what you get.


----------



## covsound1

aaranddeeman said:


> But I am understanding (slowly) is HDR is not just "bright" picture. It's a whole new ball game, in terms of details in the shadows, and highlights in bright scenes maintained as they should be in real like. It should be assisted with WCG. etc. etc.
> Done right, it should be spectacular else you get what you get.


yes i agree 100% whole new way to watch and calibrate


----------



## djkms

covsound1 said:


> monster platium 6feet and audioqeust cinnamon 6feet. some dont want to hear it so i wil bring it up again. below two pics first 1080p the second 4khdr.going back to my statment of me saying i dont feel hdr to dark.


WOW! Thats an impressive difference, thanks for posting. The shadowing on her neck is terrible in the 1080 and the screen in the background shows a ton more detail in HDR. By the way, I have both pics side by side on my 27" monitors - is the only thing you changed was 1080->4k hdr? The second picture appears brighter.

Being on the fence with this projector (main reason for me is to get a projector with HDR) and seeing all the back and fourth about the problems with HDR in this thread was starting to turn me away. After these 2 screenshots though, im becoming convinced again


----------



## covsound1

djkms said:


> WOW! Thats an impressive difference, thanks for posting. The shadowing on her neck is terrible in the 1080 and the screen in the background shows a ton more detail in HDR. By the way, I have both pics side by side on my 27" monitors - is the only thing you changed was 1080->4k hdr? The second picture appears brighter.
> 
> Being on the fence with this projector (main reason for me is to get a projector with HDR) and seeing all the back and fourth about the problems with HDR in this thread was starting to turn me away. After these 2 screenshots though, im becoming convinced again


the only thing i change was disc other settings that mean anything auto. and for those that have this pg that means hdr2. and to throw one more gamma -2!


----------



## dvdwilly3

I have attached 3 shots of Star Trek Into Darkness at 6 minutes, 13 seconds.
I choose this particular screen shot for several reasons: it has considerable detail; it has some very white material; it has some very dark material.

While the color balance and contrast varies somewhat from image to image, look at the detail in the main face...the mud/makeup as well as fibers in the cloak that the character is wearing...

First is Sony (1080p); second is Epson (1080p with e-shift); third is Epson UHD...
These were all shot under the same conditions in the same room with the same camera...

The last shot is 2' from the screen and zoomed in...you can probably get a bit better detail with a true 4K, but from my main seat (13.5' away, third shot), it makes me happy!


----------



## McBadden

QuantumCosmos said:


> Hi I have the Samsung 5150gb and have tried 2 of the glasses and cannot sync to the projector. I tried doing this when playing a 3d movie and it is detected by the projector, then pressing the power button on the glasses for several seconds inches from the projector. The glasses just blinks red continuously and does not sync. Is there a specific way I should be syncing these glasses? Thanks


You might try changing the batteries. 4 out of 5 of my glasses arrived with dead batteries. Fortunately, I had purchased a big pack of replacement batteries at the time of purchase from Amazon. The led lights on my glasses with dead batteries displayed the same as yours, if I recall correctly. The battery life in percentage should also be displayed in a small, grey rectangular box near the center, bottom of your projection screen. I hope this helps. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

dvdwilly3 said:


> I have attached 3 shots of Star Trek Into Darkness at 6 minutes, 13 seconds.
> I choose this particular screen shot for several reasons: it has considerable detail; it has some very white material; it has some very dark material.
> 
> While the color balance and contrast varies somewhat from image to image, look at the detail in the main face...the mud/makeup as well as fibers in the cloak that the character is wearing...
> 
> First is Sony (1080p); second is Epson (1080p); third is Epson UHD...
> These were all shot under the same conditions in the same room with the same camera...
> 
> The last shot is 2' from the screen and zoomed in...you can probably get a bit better detail with a true 4K, but from my main seat (13.5' away, third shot), it makes me happy!


that kills the sony both 1080p shot and the hdr shows real life for hdr on this pj. enjoy your toys!


----------



## McBadden

MaximTre said:


> I use the digital cinema setting.
> But I have a small, high gain (2.8.) screen, so I have plenty of brightness (small + high gain is the key). The room is a completely dark one too, even the walls (for 2 meters from the screen).
> With bigger and lower gain screens it's very difficult to use the digital cinema setting, brightness isn't simply enough.
> So it's better (not according to me, but according to all the reviews), to give up the filter, as you need the bright mode a lot more than you need the filter.
> The reason for the hdr striping is to have standard range (the same one as ordinary bd) because, who as problem with ordinary BDs range?
> The result is not very good IMHO (I have the hdfury linker, I tested with my eyes), but I guess for some "not so bright as the epson" projectors, it's kind of a necessary evil.
> 
> PS: I use the bright cinema mode with the xbox. Using the linker, the xbox one s gives full hdr compatiblity, that's why I bought it. It's not a bad mode at all. Don't forget the rs400 has about the same color coverage as the epson in bright cinema mode.


Dumb question here, does the "linker" for the Xbox one S mentioned in your post script have something to do with the hdfury? I ask because I'm using the S with my 5040... But no fury. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## QuantumCosmos

*issues samsung 3d glasses for this projector*



McBadden said:


> You might try changing the batteries. 4 out of 5 of my glasses arrived with dead batteries. Fortunately, I had purchased a big pack of replacement batteries at the time of purchase from Amazon. The led lights on my glasses with dead batteries displayed the same as yours, if I recall correctly. The battery life in percentage should also be displayed in a small, grey rectangular box near the center, bottom of your projection screen. I hope this helps.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


Thanks on my way to the store to buy batteries!!!


----------



## MaximTre

filter_sweep said:


> Just to clarify, when you say "linker" are you referring to the HDFury Linker? So we don't need to get the Integral ($250) to strip HDR, just the Linker ($200) will suffice? Does the linker "remap" the HDR values to SDR values like everyone is hoping the Oppo will do?
> 
> I'm currently debating which UHD player and which gaming console to get, because money / value is part of the equation. Was hoping the PS4 Pro would have a UHD disk player, but even without it I'm still considering getting one for the higher resolution / more stable gaming experience. My worry though is I'd have to force a 1080p output on the PS4 Pro because the 5040 is going to choke on a 4k / 60fps / 4:4:4 / 10-bit signal (and who knows if the Pro will give options for chroma sampling). No one knows yet how much '1080p value' there will be with the PS4 Pro either, will be up to each developer to give some enhancements to the lower resolution mode. However, if the Linker works like you say it does, maybe I could use it to dither (might be wrong term) the 4:4:4 / 10-bit down to 4:2:0 / 8-bit for games that don't give any advantage to 1080p output.
> 
> Then there's the UHD player question. Am tempted by the Oppo to keep BT2020 while dropping HDR, but that really only makes sense if using Digital Cinema (with P3 filter) on High lamp mode (I have to fill up a 150" 1.0 gain screen). However, if I get a Linker to use with the PS4 Pro, could I use the other input (it has 2) for the Phillips player, strip HDR and get close to the same results?
> 
> You know, I love this PJ but it really would have been nice if Epson had just put a 18gbs HDMI input chip in this thing, guarantee this thread would be half as long, so many less headaches.


Yes, it's the hdfury integral.
It can strip hdr, just as the integral does, I don't have the integral but I believe the linker does as the integral.
I tested hdr->sdr on a few movies, I was really curious, but hdr is a noticeable step up in picture quality, so it's something anybody should do only if really needed.
Reading all those comments about hdr striping of other projectors owners is really misleading (or I got the wrong idea). Hdr striping is a BIG compromise, not something you should use just like you're doying nothing wrong.

EDIT: about the limited HDMI input, it really was a bad idea. The funny thing is, the wireless hdmi chip is different (newer, full band), but it limited by the wireless signal...


----------



## MaximTre

covsound1 said:


> like max i also have a 2.8 hc screen but it is 120inch. if i zoom down to 90 it outplays my 4k sam 8500 tv in eco mode. even in 120 it gives my tv a run for the money. glad to hear about the linker think i am going to order the combo pack and get both the fury and linker. i have read the fury can also remap hdr and strip hdr. for remapping i think you need software that is an extra 300$. still trying to get a handle on these toys!


Linker is enough for hdr strip!
https://www.hdfury.com/comparison/

Integral can be contolled by a phone app, a nice feature linker has not, but a bluetooth adapter is on the way.


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> Sorry, I'm not a gamer so can't test Forza. Is that a 4K UHD game? Have you considered the source or an intermediary receiver in between that could be causing the loss of the greater than 8 bit signal? The XB1S has 3 settings, one each for 8, 10 and 12 bit outputs, so why would they offer this if it can't output that signal? Could it be the game itself being limited to 8 bit and the banding is there already in the video/graphics and going to 10-12 bit just reproduces that since it can't create what's not there in the first place (added chroma info)? I have reported that I saw a little banding in a sky scene in Revenant sometime during my testing but thought maybe I rectified that in the course of my tweaking. I'll have to go back and recheck.
> 
> I seem to show 4:4:4, 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 in the signal info screens of both the projectors I am evaluating here. Why are you saying XB1S can't output it?


The Xbox has a direct connection to the linker and the display. Forza is a 4k game (upscaled by Xbox, but the output is 4k/60hz).
It surely is the game outputting at 8bit, movies as fine with their 10bit encode.
Banding in Forza is very noticeable. 
You may have seen some banding in the Revenant, but I think it's the encode, don't worry.
According to the linker the Xbox is always in 4:2:0, always, dashboard, games, movies, netflix (I triple checked with 3 different displays, just to be sure).


----------



## Dave Harper

covsound1 said:


> monster platium 6feet and audioqeust cinnamon 6feet. some dont want to hear it so i wil bring it up again. below two pics first 1080p the second 4khdr.going back to my statment of me saying i dont feel hdr to dark.



Yeah, easy to say when you're dealing with a 2.8 gain screen. It's easy to have MORE gain than you need and be able to back down the 1080p image (which is needed) than to try to do like most people with "normal" screens and have to squeeze the bejesus out of the 5040 just to get an acceptably bright enough image. 

Like I said, maybe a caveat with this projector is that if you don't want to have to do that, then you should plan on buying a high gain screen to match. 

Are you seeing any hotspotting and/or small viewing angle on that screen though?



djkms said:


> WOW! Thats an impressive difference, thanks for posting. The shadowing on her neck is terrible in the 1080 and the screen in the background shows a ton more detail in HDR. By the way, I have both pics side by side on my 27" monitors - is the only thing you changed was 1080->4k hdr? The second picture appears brighter.
> 
> Being on the fence with this projector (main reason for me is to get a projector with HDR) and seeing all the back and fourth about the problems with HDR in this thread was starting to turn me away. After these 2 screenshots though, im becoming convinced again



As stated above, do you have a high gain screen to match what he's doing?



covsound1 said:


> the only thing i change was disc other settings that mean anything auto. and for those that have this pg that means hdr2. and to throw one more gamma -2!



Please caveat your posts and numbers each time with the fact that they're being shown on a high 2.8 gain screen. What a lot of people fail to realize is that a screen and projector should be mated to each other in a symbiotic way to match each other and to perform at their peak as basically one display device in your environment. 



covsound1 said:


> that kills the sony both 1080p shot and the hdr shows real life for hdr on this pj. enjoy your toys!



The Sony is clearly leaning to the "Cool" (blue) side of the grayscale spectrum in those images, so they don't seem to each be calibrated to the same endpoint to make for a completely fair comparison. They are nice though.


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> The Xbox has a direct connection to the linker and the display. Forza is a 4k game (upscaled by Xbox, but the output is 4k/60hz).
> 
> It surely is the game outputting at 8bit, movies as fine with their 10bit encode.
> 
> Banding in Forza is very noticeable.
> 
> You may have seen some banding in the Revenant, but I think it's the encode, don't worry.
> 
> According to the linker the Xbox is always in 4:2:0, always, dashboard, games, movies, netflix (I triple checked with 3 different displays, just to be sure).



OK, so if I understand you right. It's always 4:2:0 but for games it's 8 bit and movies it's 10 bit (or whatever is on there)?

I'm confused, you say Forza is a 4K game, then in parentheses say it's being upscaled by the XBox. What would it need upscaling for if it's already 4K? Do you mean by upscaling that it's going from 4K24/30 to 4K60?

Thanks for the tip on The Revenant's encode banding. Good to know since I kind of freaked when I saw it and then checked the projector's info screen and it said I was in 4:4:4 12 bit, so I was like "WTF"!

I just picked up Road Warrior Fury Road UHD BR tonight, so I'll see how that puppy looks with my tweaks!


----------



## Dave Harper

Well, my assessment is still the same as my initial one. The Sony 350ES using the XB1S in PC RGB mode watching Mad Max Fury Road, with my tweaked settings still clearly and handily outperforms the 5040, even though it doesn't have HDR and BT2020. It's almost as if it does though, when comparing back to back directly with the 5040. It's the weirdest thing. Maybe for some reason when in PC Mode it is sending BT709, but with the x.v.Color wider color gamut? Maybe it's doing something similar to what the Integral would do? I just don't know at this point, but the colors are clearly better on the Sony and the more natural and detailed image is easily seen with added picture depth that makes it almost 3D compared to the flatter, more muted image from the 5040 and Philips combo with HDR BT2020. 

I really wish someone else with this combo could test and verify what I'm seeing here. It's kind of baffling and I keep talking myself out of it, but then I just keep repeating the same results, so it has to be real and has to be something that I just haven't picked up on that one or both of these devicesz are doing in combination with each other. 

I wish I knew a place to demo a higher spec HDR setup around here to have something to compare this to, but I'm thinking this is probably the best image and setup on this island. 

P.S. - I tried the XB1S on the 5040 and the settings I used before and can get pretty close again, but without HDR so it's making me really think the XB1S does have something it's doing similar to the Integral when in PC RGB mode.


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

Dave Harper said:


> I know that and it's all well and good and I agree, but if they didn't use the settings and signals that I did and THEN calibrate it, the results are all moot. That's like pushing the gas and the brake pedal at the same time on the Sony 350 because you're self limiting it to the same signal that the other projector is getting. If you'd have read my posts, you'd see I changed what the Sony is getting because it's apparently capable of resolving more parameters using the PC-RGB output setting in the XB1S, which may also provide better tone mapping or something, helping it as well. If I use the Philips player, yes they are closer to the same, but that isn't the point here, is it? If the Sony has more capabilities than the 5040, then of course I am going to use each device to it's MAXIMUM potential when doing a comparison, no? We certainly wouldn't compare a 1080p projector with a 4K unit and say _"hey, since the 1080p one can only accept a 1080p signal, lets only send that signal to both projectors and then say they are equal when being compared!"_


The guy who calibrates these also gets the max out of each projector and uses their full capabilities, and that's one reason why he doesn't level match them, though I would prefer that as I have a fL preference for cinematic rather than brighter more 'video' levels which some people like.



Dave Harper said:


> In this case, WCG did NOT win out since the 5040 was offered it and the Sony was not, yet the Sony still blew away the 5040.


Well the Epson does win with WCG because it has it and the Sony does not - if we use your argument for getting the best out of a pj then you have to use it with the Epson and concede the Sony loses here.



Dave Harper said:


> I agree, it was the contrast and black level of the Sony that did it, because the HDR signal on the 5040 screws with those things and limits what it can do, but NOT on the Sony when fed the PC-RGB signal from the XB1S and using the settings I have now posted on numerous occasions that no one here seems to want to try themselves (if they have the same gear, which I would think someone in the world would since I posted this in the Sony 300/350ES thread too).


The Epson can produce a watchable HDR image if you set it up correctly, it doesn't have to be dull and lifeless like it is on the Sony. For me, the only advantage the Sony 320 has is the native panel, and the 5040 is close enough and better with UHD for considerably cheaper that I wouldn't consider the Sony. The 520+ has better contrast but other problems, and not enough advantage over eshift to warrant the cost either, so I would go with the LS10000/LS10500.



Dave Harper said:


> I will say this for the LAST time. Anyone is MORE THAN welcome to come by and see for themselves, or fly me there and have the same equipment there for me to set this up and show you all personally. Anything other than that, then you either take my word for it, or not. It doesn't effect ME in the least if you do because at least "I" and any clients that hire me to do the same will be enjoying this and seeing what can make this thing really sing with UHD BRDs. I would love to get my hands on a 365ES or higher to see what more they could possibly do as well.
> 
> I am done speaking of this unless my further testing on the 5040 reveals more than I've seen so far. If you have questions or comments, please make sure to actually READ my posts up until this point and comprehend what it is that I have done here. Thanks!


That's assuming that you're the only guy on the planet that can get a good image out of the Sony.

You're welcome


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

Mike Garrett said:


> I was about to post that something was not right with the projector set up, when I read LS10000 had the best black level, then I read the part about projectors, not brightness matched. They should have been brightness matched.


My initial thoughts were that an ND2 on the JVC RS400 may help to equalise the projectors (even though it was already on -15), and give the contrast/black level advantage back to the JVC, but I think Andreas said that he calibrated an RS400 on a similar 3m wide screen and had to have the iris at something like -7 to get 14fL. Ideally I'd like to have some time with them and be able to measure the fL and contrast after calibration so I would be getting a more apples to apples comparison and know for sure what was what.

All displays were calibrated, and calibrated well, that was why in mid scenes they were identical colour wise and you couldn't tell which was which. You had to rely on contrast, black level and colour gamut to identify them (resolution not so much), depending on what the source was. His argument for not brightness matching is that he likes to show the strengths of every pj he gets, and if, like with the new JVCs, they have a brightness advantage, he will show that, and I think that's a fair argument for that. I personally prefer to stick with around 12fL to 14fL because I'm old school and like my images to be 'cinematic' and like good contrast and black levels to be part of the presentation. 

I think the Epson LS10000 has around 75000 to 100000 on/off CR which should be less than the RS400, but the Epson can do full fade to black and that is a very appealing advantage if you have a good room. The LS10000 also had a more 'solid', less 'noisy' image which also made me prefer it to the JVC - I find image noise (often from an overly bright image) to be distracting and takes me out of the movie, so that would be why I'd like to be able to play with the JVC to see if it can be made less 'noisy'. So far I'm liking the image from the LS10000 better than anything else.


----------



## fdny71

Hello everyone!

I upgraded my Epson 5010e to a 5040ube and love it! Also got off of wireless which removes the occasional drops and gives me HDMI-CEC.

However I seem to be experiencing an issue which I hope some of you fine folks may be able to help with. Every time I power on the projector, it automatically goes to HDMI2 input (which I have nothing connected to it, only HDMI1). I found nothing in googling nor searching the manuals. Anyone else experience this and know a fix?

FYI I did upgrade to fw105.

Thanks in advance and hope everyone has a great day!


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> I'm confused, you say Forza is a 4K game, then in parentheses say it's being upscaled by the XBox. What would it need upscaling for if it's already 4K? Do you mean by upscaling that it's going from 4K24/30 to 4K60?


Xbox One S renders games at 1080p resolution (or less).
Then is scales (internally) to 4k resolution, so the tv gets a 4k resolution signal, but it's not the native rendering resolution.


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> P.S. - I tried the XB1S on the 5040 and the settings I used before and can get pretty close again, but without HDR so it's making me really think the XB1S does have something it's doing similar to the Integral when in PC RGB mode.


If you have the xbox one s connected via a wired connection, no hdr/wcg at all. So you're getting sdr, rec 709 all the time.
Via wireless, you get hdr/wcg in movies (24hz), not in games (for games, you need the liner or something like that).


----------



## gnolivos

fdny71 said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> 
> 
> I upgraded my Epson 5010e to a 5040ube and love it! Also got off of wireless which removes the occasional drops and gives me HDMI-CEC.
> 
> 
> 
> However I seem to be experiencing an issue which I hope some of you fine folks may be able to help with. Every time I power on the projector, it automatically goes to HDMI2 input (which I have nothing connected to it, only HDMI1). I found nothing in googling nor searching the manuals. Anyone else experience this and know a fix?
> 
> 
> 
> FYI I did upgrade to fw105.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance and hope everyone has a great day!




Are you by chance using a programmable remote like a harmony? Maybe it is switching to HDMI 2 for you?


----------



## dataJunkie

Hi All,

I've just recently upgraded from a BenQ 1070, and first impressions out of the box are a huge improvement from the BenQ.

But reading here it seems like I'm not getting the max from the Projector just yet, and I'm hoping for some advice as to you I might achieve this.

I have the projector hooked up to a PC with a GTX 1070 GPU, which is in turn hooked into a Denon 6200W AVR. I've upgraded my Netflix sub to UHD and changed playback settings .. .yet still cannot seem to get the UHD listing for any of the series.

Which leads me to ask ... what resolution settings should I set my PC at? 1080P and let the PJ upscale, or should the PC be set to the 4K res before opening up Netflix? I've done both all to no avail. I bought a 4K ready HDMI cable yesterday and have that between the PC and PJ, and I have a redmere HDMI between PC and AVR ... still nothing more than HD.

Any suggestions would be most welcome .. 

thanks.
n


----------



## Ken30NYC

dataJunkie said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I've just recently upgraded from a BenQ 1070, and first impressions out of the box are a huge improvement from the BenQ.
> 
> But reading here it seems like I'm not getting the max from the Projector just yet, and I'm hoping for some advice as to you I might achieve this.
> 
> I have the projector hooked up to a PC with a GTX 1070 GPU, which is in turn hooked into a Denon 6200W AVR. I've upgraded my Netflix sub to UHD and changed playback settings .. .yet still cannot seem to get the UHD listing for any of the series.
> 
> Which leads me to ask ... what resolution settings should I set my PC at? 1080P and let the PJ upscale, or should the PC be set to the 4K res before opening up Netflix? I've done both all to no avail. I bought a 4K ready HDMI cable yesterday and have that between the PC and PJ, and I have a redmere HDMI between PC and AVR ... still nothing more than HD.
> 
> Any suggestions would be most welcome ..
> 
> thanks.
> n


Projector should be set to 4K enhancement. You can check your resolution by right clicking on your desktop and going to Nvidia control panel /resolution. Should say 3840x2160 (native). Then you know you're PC is in 4K. Text will get extremely small too, so I'm assuming you haven't been in 4k mode yet or you'd remember. I'm pretty sure Netflix on PC doesn't have 4K availability yet if you're trying to view through a browser. Its odd I know, but you have to do Netflix through a 4K blu ray player or a Roku or something like that.

If you want some quick and easy 4K stuff to try, just type 4k into the search bar in YouTube and you'll see some amazing quality 4K videos


----------



## filter_sweep

dataJunkie said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I've just recently upgraded from a BenQ 1070, and first impressions out of the box are a huge improvement from the BenQ.
> 
> But reading here it seems like I'm not getting the max from the Projector just yet, and I'm hoping for some advice as to you I might achieve this.
> 
> I have the projector hooked up to a PC with a GTX 1070 GPU, which is in turn hooked into a Denon 6200W AVR. I've upgraded my Netflix sub to UHD and changed playback settings .. .yet still cannot seem to get the UHD listing for any of the series.
> 
> Which leads me to ask ... what resolution settings should I set my PC at? 1080P and let the PJ upscale, or should the PC be set to the 4K res before opening up Netflix? I've done both all to no avail. I bought a 4K ready HDMI cable yesterday and have that between the PC and PJ, and I have a redmere HDMI between PC and AVR ... still nothing more than HD.
> 
> Any suggestions would be most welcome ..
> 
> thanks.
> n


You can't watch Netflix in 4k from a PC. Makes no sense why they restrict it like that, but that's how it is. You have to stream Netflix 4k from an "app" from one the devices that supports 4k streaming (Shield, UHD player, etc).


----------



## filter_sweep

MaximTre said:


> Linker is enough for hdr strip!
> https://www.hdfury.com/comparison/
> 
> Integral can be contolled by a phone app, a nice feature linker has not, but a bluetooth adapter is on the way.


Thanks for providing this info... nice to know these products exist, looks like the Linker would be better for my potential uses than the Integral. 

Also, not sure if anyone else is following the Oppo 203 anticipation thread, but someone recently posted some text from an email from Oppo themselves saying the 203 will *not* support HDR to SDR remapping (to keep BT 2020 color) when it first becomes available, and they may only add that feature at a later time as part of an experimental build. Since that was the main feature I was hoping for, I'm not going to bother waiting for the Oppo. Looks like it's full HDR or bust, will probably pick up the Philips within the next couple weeks and if I can't get a HDR picture I'm happy with (at 150" I'm worried, even with the option of using Bright Cinema) I'll turn to the HDFury Linker to see if I can remap to SDR.


----------



## Dave Harper

Gary Lightfoot said:


> The guy who calibrates these also gets the max out of each projector and uses their full capabilities, and that's one reason why he doesn't level match them, though I would prefer that as I have a fL preference for cinematic rather than brighter more 'video' levels which some people......


Well there is where I think we differ then and show that what's considered a "great image" is largely personal and opinion based. I see from your follow on post and the "fl preference" stated there that you adhere to strict FL settings on your screen. I think in this day and age with the advancements in technology we can go well behind that and I personally like and believe a sharper, punchier more "contrastier" image looks more pleasing to me in my theater and my clients have agreed, all while keeping it accurate and looking very natural in nature scenes, skin tones etc. I would bet in a blind test seeing these two back to back 95% of people would agree with my assessments of the two, if they could come see it here or elsewhere with the same parameters. 





Gary Lightfoot said:


> .....Well the Epson does win with WCG because it has it and the Sony does not - if we use your argument for getting the best out of a pj then you have to use it with the Epson and concede the Sony loses here.......




See, this is where you're not hearing what I'm trying to say. If he didn't use an XBox One S in PC RGB on the Sony and 5040 then he didn't experience what I'm seeing. 

I agree that the Epson has something the Sony doesn't, but that doesn't automatically make it better. It has to implement that feature to its full potential which I don't think the 5040 quite does. 

The Sony beats the 5040 using the same source without HDR (XB1S) and even more telling, when the 5040 has the superior HDR source (Philips 7501) while the Sony is still using the "inferior" XB1S. 

I am thinking the effect I am seeing with the XB1S in PC RGB mode is probably similar or equivalent to what others are seeing and using the Integral for with other sources and devices. I can't know for sure until I get one to test myself. 



Gary Lightfoot said:


> .....The Epson can produce a watchable HDR image if you set it up correctly, it doesn't have to be dull and lifeless like it is on the Sony. For me, the only advantage the Sony 320 has is the native panel, and the 5040 is close enough and better with UHD for considerably cheaper that I wouldn't consider the Sony. The 520+ has better contrast but other problems, and not enough advantage over eshift to warrant the cost either, so I would go with the LS10000/LS10500......




That's the key phrase...."watchable HDR image"...... I don't just want "watchable", which I agree it is. But the Sony with the settings I used in more than one occasion has bested the 5040, even with HDR and BT2020. Granted there are a number of factors involved in why that's the case like screen size and gain, source device, viewing environment, display device quality, native resolution, imager technology (SXRD/LCoS vs LCD), etc. These scenarios are most likely to be the norm in people's situations than all the things that have to be "perfect and just right" like a high gain screen, small size, laser light source, etc. that need to happen to have the HDR mode of the 5040 to look the way it can and should on a great flat panel (OLED?) or something. 





Gary Lightfoot said:


> ......That's assuming that you're the only guy on the planet that can get a good image out of the Sony.
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome


I never once said that. What I DID say is that it doesn't appear anyone else has used the same source and signal with the same source device, the XB1S in the same modes and settings that I have, so I'm asking for validation of WHY I am seeing such a better image this way than what is "supposed to be" better with an end to end HDR BT2020 projection setup?

So until someone else does this and shares/shows me better settings so the 5040 looks better comparing the exact same sources and settings then I'll have to stick with what I experience with my own settings and devices. 

Maybe you can share with me what settings were being used in the 5040, so I can replicate and compare it to what I have with the Sony and XB1S?




MaximTre said:


> Xbox One S renders games at 1080p resolution (or less).
> 
> Then is scales (internally) to 4k resolution, so the tv gets a 4k resolution signal, but it's not the native rendering resolution.



OK thanks. So the game itself isn't mastered in 4K?



MaximTre said:


> If you have the xbox one s connected via a wired connection, no hdr/wcg at all. So you're getting sdr, rec 709 all the time.
> 
> Via wireless, you get hdr/wcg in movies (24hz), not in games (for games, you need the liner or something like that).



I know that. I was trying to give both projectors the exact same signal source to see if it brought the 5040 closer to the Sony 350ES, which it did, but still not quite there, although VERY acceptable. Which makes me agree that if the Sony street price is $1,500 more than the 5040/6040, then the difference isn't worth the added costs.


----------



## exm

shelly40 said:


> I have been looking at the 5040UB....
> 
> I currently have a 5 year old 1080UB.....
> 
> Is the 50404UB a worthwhile upgrade in features and picture quality ?
> 
> Thanks for any input
> 
> Shelly


Yes. I went from the 1080UB to the 3020 (for brightness purposes) and now I own the 6040UB. The 5/6040UB will be much brighter for starters, but also you'll get 4K upscaling and the last-gen projector.


----------



## ndabunka

filter_sweep said:


> ...Looks like it's full HDR or bust, will probably pick up the Philips within the next couple weeks and if I can't get a HDR picture I'm happy with (at 150" I'm worried, even with the option of using Bright Cinema)...


You will be fine with Bright Cinema with that size unless you have the projector way, way back. You do loose the P3 using BC but it is still a VERY good HDR image. Heck, you could even use Dynamic if you need too.

PS - I use Digital Cinema from about 16 feet away with a 120" screen. Going much brighter is blindingly bright for us.


----------



## Dave Harper

exm said:


> Yes. I went from the 1080UB to the 3020 (for brightness purposes) and now I own the 6040UB. The 5/6040UB will be much brighter for starters, but also you'll get 4K upscaling and the last-gen projector.



Well, it's "faux-K upscaling", but yeah still better.


----------



## covsound1

the next shipment of the hd fury will be nov12. i think iam going to get one to check out. max has explained the linker just strips hdr and leaves you with sdr. i thought the fury could also strip hdr but leave you with 2020 providing you set the correct mode for your set up. ?? like what you get from streaming apps? if not the phillips already does this but converts to sdr that kills the point.


----------



## ndabunka

covsound1 said:


> the next shipment of the hd fury will be nov12. i think iam going to get one to check out. max has explained the linker just strips hdr and leaves you with sdr. i thought the fury could also strip hdr but leave you with 2020 providing you set the correct mode for your set up. ?? like what you get from streaming apps? if not the phillips already does this but converts to sdr that kills the point.


Try this thread for the details on the Linker
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2514537-hdfury-linker.html


----------



## Dave Harper

covsound1 said:


> the next shipment of the hd fury will be nov12. i think iam going to get one to check out. max has explained the linker just strips hdr and leaves you with sdr. i thought the fury could also strip hdr but leave you with 2020 providing you set the correct mode for your set up. ?? like what you get from streaming apps? if not the phillips already does this but converts to sdr that kills the point.



Yes, the HDFury Integral can do that as well. In fact it's the first to do it. I think for just $50 more, the Integral is the better buy. (Based on specs and information I've read, not a first hand comparison)


----------



## Dave Harper

Valleyboy said:


> If you don't mind me asking, what settings did you use for Blu Ray and for UHD for the Epson shot? The UHD shot looks amazing!



Who are you referring to?


----------



## Valleyboy

dvdwilly3 said:


> I have attached 3 shots of Star Trek Into Darkness at 6 minutes, 13 seconds.
> I choose this particular screen shot for several reasons: it has considerable detail; it has some very white material; it has some very dark material.
> 
> While the color balance and contrast varies somewhat from image to image, look at the detail in the main face...the mud/makeup as well as fibers in the cloak that the character is wearing...
> 
> First is Sony (1080p); second is Epson (1080p with e-shift); third is Epson UHD...
> These were all shot under the same conditions in the same room with the same camera...
> 
> The last shot is 2' from the screen and zoomed in...you can probably get a bit better detail with a true 4K, but from my main seat (13.5' away, third shot), it makes me happy!


If you don't mind me asking, what settings did you use for the UHD shot on the Epson, it looks amazing.


----------



## Valleyboy

Dave Harper said:


> Who are you referring to?


Sorry, I haven't posted before, still learning. Think I corrected it above. Was asking Willy.


----------



## spirithockey79

Anyone that owns a 5040 also have a 4k capable Denon AVR (2015/2016 model) like an x4200w? Trying to get definitive info on whether Video Conversion or i/p scaling on the AVR should be ON or OFF. I really can't tell a difference in PQ when one, or both, are set to ON. There is an issue with the OSD from the AVR not overlaying the screen when Video Conversion is OFF. Thoughts? or even better - educated directions??


----------



## LumensLover

My local authorized seller for Epson and JVC demoed the JVC RS500 and the Epson 6040ub for me today. It took me less than five minutes to make up my mind. I preferred the Epson 6040ub.

The blacks on RS400 were excellent. The blacks on the 6040ub were good. However the picture was much sharper and brighter on the 6040ub The RS400's picture looked softer and less detailed. Also the shadow detail appeared a bit crushed on the RS400 due to the inky black level.

So I purchased the Epson 6040ub. Can't wait to get it installed and running tonight. Very excited.


----------



## dvdwilly3

Valleyboy said:


> If you don't mind me asking, what settings did you use for the UHD shot on the Epson, it looks amazing.


Not a problem...I will do some screen shots and PM you.

Actually, I think that I took the Gamma up a notch to relieve a bit of the darkness...


----------



## Dave Harper

LumensLover said:


> My local authorized seller for Epson and JVC demoed the JVC RS500 and the Epson 6040ub for me today. It took me less than five minutes to make up my mind. I preferred the Epson 6040ub.
> 
> 
> 
> The blacks on RS400 were excellent. The blacks on the 6040ub were good. However the picture was much sharper and brighter on the 6040ub The RS400's picture looked softer and less detailed. Also the shadow detail appeared a bit crushed on the RS400 due to the inky black level.
> 
> 
> 
> So I purchased the Epson 6040ub. Can't wait to get it installed and running tonight. Very excited.



Were they calibrated and each optimized for their respective maximum performance? What sources were used and were they HDR, SDR, 1080p, 4K, etc.?

I think I may agree with your assessment when talking about SDR 1080p, but not so much for HDR 4K, at least when using a Sony as opposed to a JVC. I haven't used or seen one of those in awhile so I don't have a good memory of what their minute details look like.


----------



## Labud420

Got my copy of Star Trek beyond, HDR2 was very dark even on dynamic,now that I know how to adjust ill try with HDR1


----------



## Valleyboy

dvdwilly3 said:


> Not a problem...I will do some screen shots and PM you.
> 
> Actually, I think that I took the Gamma up a notch to relieve a bit of the darkness...


Thanks, that would be awesome.


----------



## RAJEEV NELLIYODAN

*signal & Picture Orientation*



Valleyboy said:


> Thanks, that would be awesome.


I installed my 5040ub. i cannot get video signal if i route the HDMI cable thru the ceiling and thru behind wall into rack. I get signal if the same cable is placed direct connection without ceiling thru ceiling or behind walls. The cable is 25 ft. Do i need a better cable ?? Also the picture looks trapezoidal, more on bottom and less on top, is there any adjustment or do i have to lift the projector up. 

Please help.


----------



## rjguk

RAJEEV NELLIYODAN said:


> I installed my 5040ub. i cannot get video signal if i route the HDMI cable thru the ceiling and thru behind wall into rack. I get signal if the same cable is placed direct connection without ceiling thru ceiling or behind walls. The cable is 25 ft. Do i need a better cable ?? Also the picture looks trapezoidal, more on bottom and less on top, is there any adjustment or do i have to lift the projector up.
> 
> Please help.


Regarding the alignment, you need to make sure the projector is level, both side-to-side and front-to-back. At the moment it sounds like the projector is tilted downwards at the front (if it is high up compared to the screen). Once level the projected image will miss part of the screen, so then you use the lens shift to move the image upwards or downwards as necessary. 

The cable may be making a marginal connection when used direct, but in the wall or ceiling it may be kinked, too close to other cables or something else that causes a degradation of the signal. A better cable does sound like a good strategy unless you can isolate what is causing the difference.


----------



## RAJEEV NELLIYODAN

*HDMI Cable*



rjguk said:


> Regarding the alignment, you need to make sure the projector is level, both side-to-side and front-to-back. At the moment it sounds like the projector is tilted downwards at the front (if it is high up compared to the screen). Once level the projected image will miss part of the screen, so then you use the lens shift to move the image upwards or downwards as necessary.
> 
> The cable may be making a marginal connection when used direct, but in the wall or ceiling it may be kinked, too close to other cables or something else that causes a degradation of the signal. A better cable does sound like a good strategy unless you can isolate what is causing the difference.


Any recommendation for a good reliable 4k HDMI cable to support 5040ub and 25 ft length ??


----------



## Labud420

Someone recommended blue jeans, I bought 1 works great


----------



## gnolivos

RAJEEV NELLIYODAN said:


> Any recommendation for a good reliable 4k HDMI cable to support 5040ub and 25 ft length ??




I got this one, I love the quality and the price. Reviews are outstanding too!

HDMI Cable, TecBillion High Speed CL3 Rated 2.0 HDMI Cable, Braided HDMI Cord-Supports Ethernet,4K, 3D and Audio Return, 25 Feet, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E3MUSRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5OkgybPA4678J


----------



## filter_sweep

spirithockey79 said:


> Anyone that owns a 5040 also have a 4k capable Denon AVR (2015/2016 model) like an x4200w? Trying to get definitive info on whether Video Conversion or i/p scaling on the AVR should be ON or OFF. I really can't tell a difference in PQ when one, or both, are set to ON. There is an issue with the OSD from the AVR not overlaying the screen when Video Conversion is OFF. Thoughts? or even better - educated directions??




I have the Denon 6200 which has the same conversion/scaling as the 4200. If you turn on conversion or scaling it will reduce the chroma to 4:2:0, but you will get the overlay for volume changes, etc. All video content (movies, TV) are already 4:2:0, so this is really only an issue if you're sending in a PC signal at 4:4:4 or using a game console with a setting turned on to send 4:4:4. That's why you probably can't see a PQ difference... the input signal is already at 4:2:0 so you're not losing anthing. The good thing is the Denon will save the settings by HDMI input, so you can turn it off for a PC or game HDMI input but turn it off for movie / TV watching and it will remember when you change between sources.


----------



## Dave Harper

RAJEEV NELLIYODAN said:


> I installed my 5040ub. i cannot get video signal if i route the HDMI cable thru the ceiling and thru behind wall into rack. I get signal if the same cable is placed direct connection without ceiling thru ceiling or behind walls. The cable is 25 ft. Do i need a better cable ?? Also the picture looks trapezoidal, more on bottom and less on top, is there any adjustment or do i have to lift the projector up.
> 
> 
> 
> Please help.



The HDMI cable may be running along or adjacent to an AC power line in the wall, causing enough interference to lose the signal integrity. Can you see in there at all or do you have another route to pass it through the wall?

If it works out of the wall but not in the wall, its most likely not the cable itself that's the issue, other than it not being shielded properly. Did you buy the proper shielded plenum cable for in wall use?


----------



## ndabunka

RAJEEV NELLIYODAN said:


> Any recommendation for a good reliable 4k HDMI cable to support 5040ub and 25 ft length ??


There are plenty of recommendations in the cable section of this forum. Keep in mind that if the path to your projector causes you to cross 110-120 volt wires, they WILL interfere with your signal so you may be able to resolve by simply putting some distance between the power and audio cables. Sometimes that can be as little as 2 or 3 inches depending on the shielding in the cable itself. You may need to re-route your cable and that may require a longer run.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> I got this one, I love the quality and the price. Reviews are outstanding too!
> 
> HDMI Cable, TecBillion High Speed CL3 Rated 2.0 HDMI Cable, Braided HDMI Cord-Supports Ethernet,4K, 3D and Audio Return, 25 Feet, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E3MUSRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5OkgybPA4678J


Be careful with the cheap cables like gnolivos identified. While they may work fine for 1080p signals, once the flow rates go up, ones like this will likely "give up the ghost". On the opposite end, you also do NOT need to spend hundreds on the Monster and the like. Rather, a good simple $25 or $35 cable that myself and others have VERIFIED higher throughout is the monoprice like this one in a 30-foot length
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12736&seq=1&format=2&AID=11051853&PID=6155355&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11051853&utm_term=VigLink-2470763\

If you are putting it in a wall the last thing you would want to do is to put it in now, verify it works with 1080p and then later learn that you have to rip it all out when you try to run higher definition content through it.


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

Dave Harper said:


> Well there is where I think we differ then and show that what's considered a "great image" is largely personal and opinion based. I see from your follow on post and the "fl preference" stated there that you adhere to strict FL settings on your screen. I think in this day and age with the advancements in technology we can go well behind that and I personally like and believe a sharper, punchier more "contrastier" image looks more pleasing to me in my theater and my clients have agreed, all while keeping it accurate and looking very natural in nature scenes, skin tones etc. I would bet in a blind test seeing these two back to back 95% of people would agree with my assessments of the two, if they could come see it here or elsewhere with the same parameters.


It's well known that a brighter image tends to attract the eye, hence why tvs have a demo mode which should make them look brighter and more colourful to the average punter in the showroom. That's not the mode people here will use to watch though.

You say 'contrastier', yet you can't make a pj have more contrast than it has - calibration usually reduces contrast unless you move away from calibrated settings or use a CC filter, , so how do you define making something 'contrastier'? Or do you mean just brighter, or using image processing tools, or adjusting gamma which can give a contraster look if it's done that way? In which case that can be a preference rather than a 'better' image quality as such and is down to individual pj post processing.

You say sharper, so you do use excessive sharpening? Sat at 1.85 screen heights, the Sony is only marginally sharper due to it's native res with UHD and hard to tell between that and fauK pjs during normal scenes. So hard that the easiest way to identify which pj was which was to look at the black levels. That was a much easier way to tell.

With things like calibration, there are targets. If you want an accurate image, you will adhere to the targets, if you want something else, you can do that, but the image won't be accurate - what you then have is preference over reference. It may be 'better' for you, but it's not better with respect to accuracy. If you want something brighter than the DCI spec of 14fL then you are moving away from reference and will raise the back floor of the image and that will have consequences to colour saturation near black and add unwanted haze. What's the point of calibration if you are picking and choosing which parts of the calibration you are adhering to?



Dave Harper said:


> See, this is where you're not hearing what I'm trying to say. If he didn't use an XBox One S in PC RGB on the Sony and 5040 then he didn't experience what I'm seeing.


If you calibrate two different projectors to the same source, and do it well, it should be difficult to tell the difference between them with respect to gamut and greyscale, assuming they can both reach the same targets. You will see differences in black level for example. If you can see a difference in the image then something may not be calibrated the same, or one has different image processing going. If you can see a difference you should be able to measure it and correct it. Did you calibrate them both to the XB1 and what looked different to make the Sony look so much better? 



Dave Harper said:


> I agree that the Epson has something the Sony doesn't, but that doesn't automatically make it better. It has to implement that feature to its full potential which I don't think the 5040 quite does.


It's better if you want WCG and the Epson reaches 100% P3 with the filter in place. The Sony doesn't. It also doesn't have a non defeatable noise reduction system, or degrading panels, or posterization that seems to be bugging a lot of people. Some people like RC and the SNR of the Sony though.



Dave Harper said:


> The Sony beats the 5040 using the same source without HDR (XB1S) and even more telling, when the 5040 has the superior HDR source (Philips 7501) while the Sony is still using the "inferior" XB1S.


In what way does it beat it in both of those examples? In what way does an SDR REC709 image beat the HDR 2020 image? Is it just image brightness? 



Dave Harper said:


> I am thinking the effect I am seeing with the XB1S in PC RGB mode is probably similar or equivalent to what others are seeing and using the Integral for with other sources and devices. I can't know for sure until I get one to test myself.


I think you need to measure what you're seeing so you can define what the difference really is. What the Integral and Fury do is to strip out the HDR signal so you don't force HDR (so get SDR) but still allow WCG, so that may be what you are seeing, but both displays should be showing the same image if calibrated, except the Sony won't reach full WCG, so shouldnt look as saturated.



Dave Harper said:


> That's the key phrase...."watchable HDR image"...... I don't just want "watchable", which I agree it is.


When I say watchable, I mean better than the Sony which doesn't have a watchable HDR image (no pj can really do a good HDR image as they don't have the amount of lumens, and some raise the black floor to try and make it work, so compromise one end to achieve the other). Watchable doesn't mean poor in this case. The sony is poor with HDR and the Epson watchable/better (as is the JVC). The Sony's res is only really visible in static scenes in split screen with the Epson/JVC/LS10000, but with motion it's harder, and even in split screen difficult to tell apart - unless you ramp up sharpening tools and then that is down to preference, and one may produce more apparent sharpness due to processing rather than actual sharpness.



Dave Harper said:


> But the Sony with the settings I used in more than one occasion has bested the 5040, even with HDR and BT2020.


Depends on what you mean by 'bested'. Many people prefer an SDR image over an HDR image because the SDR range within HDR is restricted and muted. If you tweak settings to counter that then you are probably moving away from a calibrated image. Some people raise the brightness or do other things so that it looks 'better' to them. Simply being 'brighter' can be 'better' to some people, as mentioned earlier. What do you do to make the Sony less dull in HDR mode?




Dave Harper said:


> I never once said that. What I DID say is that it doesn't appear anyone else has used the same source and signal with the same source device, the XB1S in the same modes and settings that I have, so I'm asking for validation of WHY I am seeing such a better image this way than what is "supposed to be" better with an end to end HDR BT2020 projection setup?


What you are saying is that other calibrators can't get a good image, but you can, without even seeing their results. It could be they are getting the same quality image from the Sony as you are, but are also able to get a very similar, equally as good image from the Epson. Having seen various pjs side by side and calibrated, it should in the most part be difficult to tell them apart. That's kinda the point of calibration.

Can you post gamut, greyscale, fL and gamma of both set ups so we can see what the differences are? That may go someway to showing why you think the Sony is so much better when it should look much the same in the most part.



Dave Harper said:


> So until someone else does this and shares/shows me better settings so the 5040 looks better comparing the exact same sources and settings then I'll have to stick with what I experience with my own settings and devices.


Which is what I am saying here - having seen correctly calibrated and comparable displays in split screen, the differences are much smaller than what you appear to be seeing. Things like better black levels or WCG for example should be more visible. 



Dave Harper said:


> Maybe you can share with me what settings were being used in the 5040, so I can replicate and compare it to what I have with the Sony and XB1S?


I can't because I didn't calibrate them, but regardless, if they are calibrated the same, they should look much the same.



Dave Harper said:


> I know that. I was trying to give both projectors the exact same signal source to see if it brought the 5040 closer to the Sony 350ES, which it did, but still not quite there, although VERY acceptable. Which makes me agree that if the Sony street price is $1,500 more than the 5040/6040, then the difference isn't worth the added costs.


Did you calibrate them each time you changed the signal source to make sure each was at the optimum?


----------



## RAJEEV NELLIYODAN

*HDMI Cable*



ndabunka said:


> Be careful with the cheap cables like gnolivos identified. While they may work fine for 1080p signals, once the flow rates go up, ones like this will likely "give up the ghost". On the opposite end, you also do NOT need to spend hundreds on the Monster and the like. Rather, a good simple $25 or $35 cable that myself and others have VERIFIED higher throughout is the monoprice like this one in a 30-foot length
> http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12736&seq=1&format=2&AID=11051853&PID=6155355&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11051853&utm_term=VigLink-2470763\
> 
> If you are putting it in a wall the last thing you would want to do is to put it in now, verify it works with 1080p and then later learn that you have to rip it all out when you try to run higher definition content through it.


This is the same cable (monoprice) i used and had issues while routing thru ceiling. I guess i should try to be away from the power cable. I understand hdmi cables are little tricky.


----------



## RAJEEV NELLIYODAN

*5040ub setup tips*

Does Epson provide any setup tips or quick setup for Epson 5040UB. Is there some guide and literature i can rely rather than trial and error or guessing.


----------



## Bortan

Just upgraded to a 5040UB from a 5030UB yesterday! Photos.. below.

I cannot get my 5040UB to work with my KDLinks A300 in 4K mode... anyone else have this issue?


----------



## k3nnis

Bortan said:


> Just upgraded to a 5040UB from a 5030UB yesterday! Photos.. below.
> 
> I cannot get my 5040UB to work with my KDLinks A300 in 4K mode... anyone else have this issue?


How does it compare to the 5030? Night and day?


----------



## ndabunka

RAJEEV NELLIYODAN said:


> Does Epson provide any setup tips or quick setup for Epson 5040UB. Is there some guide and literature i can rely rather than trial and error or guessing.


What are you asking? You should not have to "do ANYTHING" to the Epson in set up other than turn it on and enjoy the image. Certainly there ARE "things" you CAN do and the manual outlines them all. If you are seekign guidelines on "projector setup" in general you probably will want to review the STICKIES in these forums.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Bortan said:


> Just upgraded to a 5040UB from a 5030UB yesterday! Photos.. below.
> 
> I cannot get my 5040UB to work with my KDLinks A300 in 4K mode... anyone else have this issue?


Check what KDLink is outputting..


----------



## Dave Harper

Gary Lightfoot said:


> It's well known that a brighter image tends to attract the eye, hence why tvs have a demo mode which should make them look brighter and more colourful to the average punter in the showroom. That's not the mode people here will use to watch though.
> 
> You say 'contrastier', yet you can't make a pj have more contrast than it has - calibration usually reduces contrast unless you move away from calibrated settings or use a CC filter, , so how do you define making something 'contrastier'? Or do you mean just brighter, or using image processing tools, or adjusting gamma which can give a contraster look if it's done that way? In which case that can be a preference rather than a 'better' image quality as such and is down to individual pj post processing.
> 
> You say sharper, so you do use excessive sharpening? Sat at 1.85 screen heights, the Sony is only marginally sharper due to it's native res with UHD and hard to tell between that and fauK pjs during normal scenes. So hard that the easiest way to identify which pj was which was to look at the black levels. That was a much easier way to tell.
> 
> With things like calibration, there are targets. If you want an accurate image, you will adhere to the targets, if you want something else, you can do that, but the image won't be accurate - what you then have is preference over reference. It may be 'better' for you, but it's not better with respect to accuracy. If you want something brighter than the DCI spec of 14fL then you are moving away from reference and will raise the back floor of the image and that will have consequences to colour saturation near black and add unwanted haze. What's the point of calibration if you are picking and choosing which parts of the calibration you are adhering to?.......


First off, please stop being so condescending and treating me like I don't know what a good image should be or what calibration is and does for an image and display device. I have been doing this for the most part since 1994, in commercial, government/military and consumer realms and have setup and calibrated everything from TV broadcast transmitters, modulators, upconverters, Pro U-Matic and Betacam decks and other baseband sources in ALL of the world's various standards when I worked in Psyops Broadcasting, as well as numerous consumer devices from then until now, from VHS and LaserDisc up to UHD Blurays and everything in between. I have also assisted in final design, setup and technical support along with winning awards at both CEDIA and CES for TAW, Inc. and their High End CRT projectors (HD800/900), SDI DVD Player (DigiLink) and Video Processors (TAW Rock and Rock+).

The whole reason I put the word in quotes and said "contrastier" and not actual CONTRAST was so that it wasn't taken out of context, yet you took it that way anyway.  I KNOW what sharpness does, thank you very much, as well as what they do in "Beast" Buy to get Joe Sixpacks to buy this or that TV, so once again stop with the condescension please! We all know you know what you're doing too, so no need to flaunt it here and try to talk down to your counterparts.



Gary Lightfoot said:


> .....If you calibrate two different projectors to the same source, and do it well, it should be difficult to tell the difference between them with respect to gamut and greyscale, assuming they can both reach the same targets. You will see differences in black level for example. If you can see a difference in the image then something may not be calibrated the same, or one has different image processing going. If you can see a difference you should be able to measure it and correct it. Did you calibrate them both to the XB1 and what looked different to make the Sony look so much better?


I already said that I have gotten the 5040 very close and almost the same as the Sony when I used both the same exact sources (the XB1S in PC RGB mode), but the Sony bests it by a small margin still, so that goes hand in hand with what you just said. I already stated a million times how the Sony looks better and will not repeat it again here.



Gary Lightfoot said:


> ....It's better if you want WCG and the Epson reaches 100% P3 with the filter in place. The Sony doesn't. It also doesn't have a non defeatable noise reduction system, or degrading panels, or posterization that seems to be bugging a lot of people. Some people like RC and the SNR of the Sony though.....


As I said, that doesn't mean that the Epson automatically looks or performs better, just because it happens to have that feature or capability. If it isn't totally implemented correctly or the rest of the machine isn't capable of fully resolving said "feature", then that is moot. Its basically the same as it being able to ACCEPT a 4K signal, yet it's internal components aren't capable of fully RESOLVING all the resolution of said 4K signal, right, since it's "faux-K" and only appears to resolve somewhere between 2K and 4K? Same thing here in my experience with it's HDR/BT2020 performance. You even admit this later on when talking about projectors and being able to fully display HDR/BT2020 and their brightness levels.



Gary Lightfoot said:


> .....In what way does it beat it in both of those examples? In what way does an SDR REC709 image beat the HDR 2020 image? Is it just image brightness?......


I've already said this NUMEROUS times and you keep asking this, sheesh. In case you didn't know, the Sony has x.v.Color, which is a wider color gamut than standard rec709. I can only think at this point that the Sony is taking advantage of this to bring it closer to the WCG of the 5040, and then with it's advanced quality and features it is enough to outperform the 5040 when all things are considered and in the end results.



Gary Lightfoot said:


> ....I think you need to measure what you're seeing so you can define what the difference really is. What the Integral and Fury do is to strip out the HDR signal so you don't force HDR (so get SDR) but still allow WCG, so that may be what you are seeing, but both displays should be showing the same image if calibrated, except the Sony won't reach full WCG, so shouldnt look as saturated......


So even more condescension, thanks. I know what the HDFury is and what it does thank you very much. I just mentioned that the Sony is most likely taking advantage of x.v.Color, which is a wider color gamut.



Gary Lightfoot said:


> .....*When I say watchable, I mean better than the Sony which doesn't have a watchable HDR image (no pj can really do a good HDR image as they don't have the amount of lumens, and some raise the black floor to try and make it work, so compromise one end to achieve the other).* Watchable doesn't mean poor in this case. The sony is poor with HDR and the Epson watchable/better (as is the JVC). The Sony's res is only really visible in static scenes in split screen with the Epson/JVC/LS10000, but with motion it's harder, and even in split screen difficult to tell apart - unless you ramp up sharpening tools and then that is down to preference, and one may produce more apparent sharpness due to processing rather than actual sharpness......


That is what I was talking about when I said how you admit that "no pj can really do a good HDR image". From my experienced and professional opinion, the Epson 5040/6040 does NOT represent HDR very well and what it is capable of, so therefore whenn it's compared to what the Sony can do with it's advantages, the Sony does a better job rendering a great image on the screen as compared to the 5040 *WITH* HDR, and a marginally better job when we make all things equal, which takes advantage of the Sony's added capabilities. The Sony's added "res" is easily seen this way all throughout the movie during testing, static or moving images regardless.



Gary Lightfoot said:


> .....Depends on what you mean by 'bested'. Many people prefer an SDR image over an HDR image because the SDR range within HDR is restricted and muted. If you tweak settings to counter that then you are probably moving away from a calibrated image. Some people raise the brightness or do other things so that it looks 'better' to them. Simply being 'brighter' can be 'better' to some people, as mentioned earlier. What do you do to make the Sony less dull in HDR mode?......


By "bested" I mean, the image on the screen is BETTER than the Epson 5040/6040 and yes, it is and does look natural and calibrated WITHOUT artifacts that make it look fake, cartoony, overblown, white clipped, black crushed, green tinted, bluish, reddish, yada yada yada like your're seeming to make it out to be, like I'm some idiotic hack that doesn't know what I'm doing or what a "good image" looks like!

What I DO live by and adhere to is that fact that a scientific ISF Calibration doesn't ONLY mean exact numbers and that's it. I believe thoroughly that when someone pays me to ISF Calibrate their display, they expect first an accurate image as close to specs as it should and can be and then also on top of that FULLY taking advantage of that particular display device's capabilities to give me and the end client the best possible, natural "like looking through a window" image as humanly possible. I am NOT some scientific Big Bang Theory emotionless drone that is only supposed to walk into a calibration, hook up my meters, software, programs etc., set it all to the numbers then walk away even if that resultant image looks subjectively worse than what it "could be" with a few artistic tweaks applied on top of the scientifically correct calibration settings, taking advantage of whatever specs, features and modes that particular display device has to offer, and NOT dumbing it down to match an inferior display device I may have happened to have seen or compared it to.

I DO NOT look at myself as a scientific drone with expensive calibration gear that only thinks in terms of base foundational numbers like Sheldon Cooper with no emotion or feelings involved. Those are the baseline foundation to start with and then the REAL artist in me and the REAL artistry happens after that to display the utmost and best possible real looking image I can get on that particular display.....PERIOD! If you don't do it the same or feel the same then I am sorry for that and I guess we have to differ and you win because just the "numbers" say so. Many sports teams have lost to inferior competition, even if the "numbers" say otherwise, because as we ALL know, there's more to it than just that!



Gary Lightfoot said:


> .....What you are saying is that other calibrators can't get a good image, but you can, without even seeing their results. It could be they are getting the same quality image from the Sony as you are, but are also able to get a very similar, equally as good image from the Epson. Having seen various pjs side by side and calibrated, it should in the most part be difficult to tell them apart. That's kinda the point of calibration.....


Why do you keep saying that and putting words in my mouth??? I am SURE they have gotten great images and did an exemplary job calibrating what they did. All I ever said is, maybe they didn't think to use an XBox One S in PC RGB mode (or maybe a juiced up PC?) to see if that offered something more than just using a consumer UHD Bluray player instead? Answer my question...DID they use an XB1S and compare it to HDR on the other projectors??? DID they also set all the projectors to the XB1S on PC RGB instead of using the UHD BR player and then compare them, as I have? I am thinking no they haven't, so why do you keep spouting about something that YOU nor THEY have even tried, seen or tested??? Until you DO, then your comments mean nothing in this context and are nothing more than conjecture.

I will say this again and again.......If you or anyone else would like to come see or fly me anywhere to show you personally I WILL do that. You can just as easily get the same setup that I have and I will share with you the settings I have so far (still a tweak and work in progress though) so that you can replicate what I am seeing and offer some REAL feedback on this, which I would welcome completely as I am not perfect and only human. For some reason you just don't seem to want to do that. 



Gary Lightfoot said:


> .....Can you post gamut, greyscale, fL and gamma of both set ups so we can see what the differences are? That may go someway to showing why you think the Sony is so much better when it should look much the same in the most part.
> 
> Which is what I am saying here - having seen correctly calibrated and comparable displays in split screen, the differences are much smaller than what you *appear* to be seeing. Things like better black levels or WCG for example should be more visible.
> 
> 
> I can't because I didn't calibrate them, but regardless, if they are calibrated the same, they should look much the same......


So you're saying that ANY display device, regardless of its FULL capabilities, once calibrated they will ALL look and act nearly the same?  I think you're the one that is quite confused with THAT statement! That's like saying I would tune my Maserati to some man made spec to save the most gas, using the same "calibration" as my Hyundai Accent! That just isn't realistic nor true in the least! You tune each one based on it's FULL capabilities. Isn't a calibrated Sony VPL-VW5000 _supposed_ to look better than a eShift faux-k projector like the 5040 and JVCs? According to your logic that shouldn't be the case though and makes no sense whatsoever! As I said, I calibrate each and every display based on what that particular device can do and offers to me, to justify it's added expense and higher quality rating and the whole reason that device may be more expensive and in a higher tier than its counterpart.

By the way, I did say that the 5040 was very close to the Sony once I fed them the same signal and implemented similar tweaks on the 5040 as I used on the Sony 350ES. So YES, they did look very similar, but the Sony still edged it out due to it's added resolution and other small added factors that the Sony has compared to the Epson 5040.

I agree the black levels were a touch better on the 5040 due to its Iris function that the Sony lacks, but when you take the entire image from each and weigh all the positives and negatives, the Sony wins by a small but easily seen margin.



Gary Lightfoot said:


> .....Did you calibrate them each time you changed the signal source to make sure each was at the optimum?


Yes. The Sony was calibrated at install and then at about 100 hours initially, and then done again a short while ago after 500 hours once the lamp settled in, etc.

The 5040 is too new for any real calibration to hold, but I did tweak it up some initially upon install, but not what I would call a real calibration due to the new lamp, etc.

I did go through each setting after I changed sources back and forth and used the "Calibration" function in the XB1S menu to set the proper black, white, color, tint levels and checked the color bars and grey ramps to make sure they were fully resolved and as accurate as possible on this new 5040 projector. I saved the settings for quick access as I went back and forth.

I really don't know what else to say. Unless you see what I see and do what I did, you really have no way of knowing or understanding. I don't think I am going to comment any further, but feel free to do so, especially if you decide to do what I did. I'll post updates as I have them though, throughout the continued tweaking and calibrating.

Just to be sure everyone knows, I am NOT trashing the 5040 at all. It looks simply amazing in 1080p mode with 4K Enhancment with its brighter lamp output it throws some serious punch and gorgeous images! I just think the Sony ever so slightly edges it when all things being equal are sent to each one, that's it. As it should considering its higher price point and targeted market. If I were buying today, I would certainly get the Epson 5040 or 6040 if I had to pay more than $1-1.5K more for the Sony, which it still is street price wise. The differences just aren't that much greater to justify more than that, but that doesn't mean the differences aren't THERE!


----------



## spirithockey79

filter_sweep said:


> I have the Denon 6200 which has the same conversion/scaling as the 4200. If you turn on conversion or scaling it will reduce the chroma to 4:2:0, but you will get the overlay for volume changes, etc. All video content (movies, TV) are already 4:2:0, so this is really only an issue if you're sending in a PC signal at 4:4:4 or using a game console with a setting turned on to send 4:4:4. That's why you probably can't see a PQ difference... the input signal is already at 4:2:0 so you're not losing anthing. The good thing is the Denon will save the settings by HDMI input, so you can turn it off for a PC or game HDMI input but turn it off for movie / TV watching and it will remember when you change between sources.




Thank you. Your response has provided the best explanation I've seen so far on this topic. Usually I just see the standard "don't turn on those settings cause they impact PQ". While having the OSD is nice if it impacts PQ then I'm fine without it. That said I use a DirecTV receiver, a Roku 4k Premier+, and a PS4 for Blu-ray (kids play games on it seldomly). 

You mentioned there might be a setting on the game console to send 4:4:4 - are you familiar if there is one on the PS4? Is that just Deep Color? 

Also, if I end up getting a UHD player are you saying I could set that AVR input to have OSD and then use PS4 as just gaming console without OSD and not only will the AVR remember those settings but there won't be any PQ issues?


----------



## TheronB

Sports better on this thing at 1080p with DFI and detail enhancement or at Faux-K?


----------



## gnolivos

Can someone explain to me why all the aspect ratio options are greyed out over HDMI on this projector?!


----------



## hatlesschimp

The video below is me doing a quick unboxing of the 9300 / 6040ub 4k projector and also about my kef speaker custom cabinet speakers. I'm projecting on to an off white wall at the moment. The image is 110" 16:9 and 103" at 2.35:1 from memory. I really should have wrote it down, sorry. I'm using the projector about 6 hours a day at the moment with 4 hours roughly 16:9 content with that being general TV, Sports and a touch of Fifa and Battlefield 1, the last couple hours is normally a movie with my wife. Cant wait to see what the Oppo 203 can do with this awesome projector.


----------



## abs

Quick question before I bite the bullet and order one here in the the UK to replace my trusty Sony vw 95. On the wireless version 9300W in the UK can I still connect my old 1.4 hdmi to the pj and other end to my receiver and upscale to 4k this way? Or does it need to be connected to the 2.2 hdmi port? Or is this port solely for native 4k content etc. 

Secondly using the wireless transmitter if I connect the old hdmi as above to the receiver (Marantz sr7009) can I just use the wireless receiver to take care of the native 4k content? 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## flint350

gnolivos said:


> Can someone explain to me why all the aspect ratio options are greyed out over HDMI on this projector?!


The aspect ratio changes are only supported on the 6040 model. You will need something else to stretch content. Some avr's (my Denon) and others, plus some add-on boxes like Kodi/Android have that feature.


----------



## Dave Harper

abs said:


> Quick question before I bite the bullet and order one here in the the UK to replace my trusty Sony vw 95. On the wireless version 9300W in the UK can I still connect my old 1.4 hdmi to the pj and other end to my receiver and upscale to 4k this way? Or does it need to be connected to the 2.2 hdmi port? Or is this port solely for native 4k content etc.
> 
> Secondly using the wireless transmitter if I connect the old hdmi as above to the receiver (Marantz sr7009) can I just use the wireless receiver to take care of the native 4k content?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk



Yes you can send your old receiver's HDMI 1.4 signal to the projector and it will upscale the signal to 4K still using either hard wired HDMI input. You can also send 4K to input 2 (the non 2.0a HDCP 2.2 one) at HDMI 1.4 specs if I understand correctly. 

The projector won't know what is and isn't "native 4K". An upscaled 4K and a native have the same signal properties. 

Yes you can use the wireless Tx for your HDCP 2.2 4K content. They're all basically distinct HDMI inputs - wireless, HDMI 1 and HDMI 2, with the wireless and HDMI 1 being the ones with HDCP 2.2. 

If you only have the two inputs to your projector, I would send the wire to HDMI 1 and maybe your native 4K devices to the wireless since it's said to have the capability to receive more signal varieties. 

I'm really curious why you just don't use the wireless though, and bag the wired? It has 4 inputs of its own.


----------



## Dave Harper

flint350 said:


> The aspect ratio changes are only supported on the 6040 model. You will need something else to stretch content. Some avr's (my Denon) and others, plus some add-on boxes like Kodi/Android have that feature.



Are you sure it's not more of a signal defined setting? I think if he inputs a 4:3 and/or 480i/p source then those won't be greyed out and you can change aspect ratios. I thought it just doesn't allow a 16:9 signal's AR to be changed.


----------



## gnolivos

flint350 said:


> The aspect ratio changes are only supported on the 6040 model. You will need something else to stretch content. Some avr's (my Denon) and others, plus some add-on boxes like Kodi/Android have that feature.




Wow. That's horsesh*t from Epson. My 8 yr old projector stretches in any way imaginable over HDMI. Crap. I really needed this.


----------



## Valleyboy

I have to admit, I'm not the most technically savvy, but I sure am learning a lot from this forum. Thanks to everyone for their postings that make it easier for a newbie projector owner like myself to navigate the Epson 5040. It's always been a dream of mine to own a projector for home cinema and backyard showings so I finally bit the bullet and bought one and I'm absolutely loving it. Not dissapointed at all. I have a quick question, my projector seems to be running 103 and I understand there is an update for 105. Seeing as how I'm an idiot about these things, does anyone have the time to lay out how exactly I would update the projector using my Macbook Pro? Or do I even need to bother? Is there really anything of importance in the 105 update? Thanks again in advance, I really am enjoying reading everyone's comments. It's taken a while but I finally got through all of the posts.


----------



## dvdwilly3

Valleyboy said:


> I have to admit, I'm not the most technically savvy, but I sure am learning a lot from this forum. Thanks to everyone for their postings that make it easier for a newbie projector owner like myself to navigate the Epson 5040. It's always been a dream of mine to own a projector for home cinema and backyard showings so I finally bit the bullet and bought one and I'm absolutely loving it. Not dissapointed at all. I have a quick question, my projector seems to be running 103 and I understand there is an update for 105. Seeing as how I'm an idiot about these things, does anyone have the time to lay out how exactly I would update the projector using my Macbook Pro? Or do I even need to bother? Is there really anything of importance in the 105 update? Thanks again in advance, I really am enjoying reading everyone's comments. It's taken a while but I finally got through all of the posts.


You will need a USB stick.

I can send you the zipped update file. When you unzip it, you will find a PDF file with complete instructions.

Unzip the file and go down thru the subfolders until you get to the update file itself. Then, copy that file onto the USB drive.

The file has to be in the root directory (not in a subfolder) for the projector to find it.

I had originally just unzipped the zip file directly on the USB stick. That will not work. When the files are extracted, the file that you need is sitting in a subfolder, and the projector cannot find it.


----------



## abs

Dave Harper said:


> Yes you can send your old receiver's HDMI 1.4 signal to the projector and it will upscale the signal to 4K still using either hard wired HDMI input. You can also send 4K to input 2 (the non 2.0a HDCP 2.2 one) at HDMI 1.4 specs if I understand correctly.
> 
> The projector won't know what is and isn't "native 4K". An upscaled 4K and a native have the same signal properties.
> 
> Yes you can use the wireless Tx for your HDCP 2.2 4K content. They're all basically distinct HDMI inputs - wireless, HDMI 1 and HDMI 2, with the wireless and HDMI 1 being the ones with HDCP 2.2.
> 
> If you only have the two inputs to your projector, I would send the wire to HDMI 1 and maybe your native 4K devices to the wireless since it's said to have the capability to receive more signal varieties.
> 
> I'm really curious why you just don't use the wireless though, and bag the wired? It has 4 inputs of its own.


Thanks Dave for the reply. Yeah I was thinking of doing just that. .i.e. using the wireless receiver to handle everything. My only worry was the reliability going wireless over wired? Furthermore, my last projector the Sony vpl vw 95 had a sealed light path and after 700 hrs never experienced any dust blobs. I've read on here that a 5040 owner has a dust blob. This is concerning to me .

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## filter_sweep

spirithockey79 said:


> Thank you. Your response has provided the best explanation I've seen so far on this topic. Usually I just see the standard "don't turn on those settings cause they impact PQ". While having the OSD is nice if it impacts PQ then I'm fine without it. That said I use a DirecTV receiver, a Roku 4k Premier+, and a PS4 for Blu-ray (kids play games on it seldomly).
> 
> You mentioned there might be a setting on the game console to send 4:4:4 - are you familiar if there is one on the PS4? Is that just Deep Color?
> 
> Also, if I end up getting a UHD player are you saying I could set that AVR input to have OSD and then use PS4 as just gaming console without OSD and not only will the AVR remember those settings but there won't be any PQ issues?




You bet, glad to be of help, nice that all the research I've had to do can help someone else. I don't have a PS4 (yet, will probably get the PS4 Pro when it comes out next week), but my understanding is the "Deep Color" setting on the PS4 enables either 10 or 12 bit at 4:4:4, so you probably wouldn't want to use the Denon's OSD on top of that and have it reduced down to 4:2:0. There is, of course, a debate as to whether it would make a difference, because games would likely need some really small text in order for you to actually see the difference. The chroma sampling issue is really a bigger deal for using with a PC, because PC's are generally used for images with lots of small text (e.g. surfing the internet), and the reduced chroma will make that small text hard to read. 


To answer your last question, you got it right, the AVR will remember the settings by HDMI input, so if your PS4 is plugged into AUX2 and you turn off the scaling / conversion while using AUX2, when you switch back to AUX2 after something else like CBL/SAT (which presumably has a different setting) it will remember to turn off the scaling again. Very convenient!


----------



## Morames

flint350 said:


> The aspect ratio changes are only supported on the 6040 model. You will need something else to stretch content. Some avr's (my Denon) and others, plus some add-on boxes like Kodi/Android have that feature.


So are you saying if I bought 5040ub with a 2.35:1 screen which would give me 120" 16:9 I couldn't just hit a button and have it switch between the two? Or is it that the 6040ub automatically detects the aspect ration and switches for you? I'd like to save $1000 and spend it elsewhere if I can.


----------



## aaranddeeman

dvdwilly3 said:


> You will need a USB stick.
> 
> I can send you the zipped update file. When you unzip it, you will find a PDF file with complete instructions.
> 
> Unzip the file and go down thru the subfolders until you get to the update file itself. Then, copy that file onto the USB drive.
> 
> The file has to be in the root directory (not in a subfolder) for the projector to find it.
> 
> I had originally just unzipped the zip file directly on the USB stick. That will not work. When the files are extracted, the file that you need is sitting in a subfolder, and the projector cannot find it.


I only hope that 6040 and 5040 has exact same firmware file. Knowing the projectors it should be, but you never know.
Just a word of caution.


----------



## Valleyboy

aaranddeeman said:


> I only hope that 6040 and 5040 has exact same firmware file. Knowing the projectors it should be, but you never know.
> Just a word of caution.


Huh. Where would I find the 5040 update, because I am having trouble, the projector isn't updating.


----------



## flint350

Morames said:


> So are you saying if I bought 5040ub with a 2.35:1 screen which would give me 120" 16:9 I couldn't just hit a button and have it switch between the two? Or is it that the 6040ub automatically detects the aspect ration and switches for you? I'd like to save $1000 and spend it elsewhere if I can.


Yes and no, depends on your setup. Is the screen CIH widescreen or 16:9? Are you using an anamorphic lens? The aspect ratio button is mostly used to stretch a scope image electronically to fit (height only). That isn't supported on the 5040 in that way. You can zoom to fit - which is 1 button or you can stretch the image with other equipment. On the 6040, the aspect ratio can be changed with the aspect key if you have a wide screen and lens. 

Neither model "switches it for you". They both display the native image 16:9 or 2.35. Only the 6040 can do the stretch with a key, the 5040 accomplishes this by zooming and spilling the black bars offscreen. As I said, it all depends on what kind of screen and/or lens you have.

As for the earlier comment about 480i, I have no idea as I have no such sources anymore. I simply adjust what I have to fit my screen, a 138" scope that has a 110" 16:9 center. I have an a-lens and can stretch with my Denon, but lately I've been just as happy with the image simply zoomed and can use that "one button" method more easily. The lens memory is just terrific on this projector. I have the 3 most common sizes saved to easily switch btwn and (for now) have abandoned my old Prismasonic 5000HD to the closet.


----------



## exm

Valleyboy said:


> Huh. Where would I find the 5040 update, because I am having trouble, the projector isn't updating.


What's your current FW version?


----------



## Whitecamaross79

Hi all,
So I currently own a Sony hw40es and haven't had a problem at all with it. I had owned Epson before the Sony and it had issues which made me feel as if I was always on eggshells each time I turned it on because I kept thinking if it was going to turn on. Anyhow I'm here thinking of this 6040. I Have a few questions:

Will it best my Sony with 1080p content ? 
Will it make 1080p content look better ?
Is it slow locking the signal ?

Also, can anyone tell me the distance between the 3 bottom feet ? I looked everywhere and all I find are the dimensions. I need to know of its feet will sit perfectly on a shelf I have. I would appreciate it if someone can measure the bottom feet's distance. Thanks !


----------



## c.kingsley

Finally got my Silver Ticket 120" 1.1 gain screen installed last night. I had to do a lot of tweaking because the brightness was so much higher than the flat gray wall I was projecting on. Viewing distance is about 12' from screen.

I watched Warcraft UHD last night with the following settings:

Digital Cinema
Gamma 1
Iris -2
HDR1
Brightness 44
Contrast 65
Color Saturation 60

Wow. This movie pops off the screen. There are several scenes where it was literally like looking through a window. Not the best movie I've ever seen, but plenty of demo material.

I also bought UHD calibration patterns from mascior. He's done a tremendous job putting together a UHD test pattern set. They can be found here: 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...98-r-masciola-s-hdr-10-uhd-test-patterns.html

I will test how these settings stand up tonight.


----------



## Valleyboy

exm said:


> What's your current FW version?


It was 103, but on the second try I was able to download the new firmware to 105. DVDWilly3 was very helpful.


----------



## Dandlj

hatlesschimp said:


> The video below is me doing a quick unboxing of the 9300 / 6040ub 4k projector and also about my kef speaker custom cabinet speakers. I'm projecting on to an off white wall at the moment. The image is 110" 16:9 and 103" at 2.35:1 from memory. I really should have wrote it down, sorry. I'm using the projector about 6 hours a day at the moment with 4 hours roughly 16:9 content with that being general TV, Sports and a touch of Fifa and Battlefield 1, the last couple hours is normally a movie with my wife. Cant wait to see what the Oppo 203 can do with this awesome projector.
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/HigoXTWma7w




Great pic even with light walls and some sunlight!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Dandlj said:


> Great pic even with light walls and some sunlight!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That was a screen grab within the video. The video actually makes it look worse. Im sorry about using the phone to record with. I have no other camera. My good 4k camera broke. I should have another video ready tonight. Cheers


----------



## dataJunkie

Slightly off topic, but would anyone be able to confirm, the xBox One S is receiving an Atmos upgrade next year, and it can presently play Netflix UHD and 4K Blu Ray and is HDR Compatible?

Considering purchasing one as I enjoy and odd game and have not got a 4K player / Netflix app to hook up to my new 6040UB yet ... seems to be an all-in-one package at around the same price as the Philips Player.

thanks

n


----------



## jbarteli

dataJunkie said:


> Slightly off topic, but would anyone be able to confirm, the xBox One S is receiving an Atmos upgrade next year, and it can presently play Netflix UHD and 4K Blu Ray and is HDR Compatible?
> 
> Considering purchasing one as I enjoy and odd game and have not got a 4K player / Netflix app to hook up to my new 6040UB yet ... seems to be an all-in-one package at around the same price as the Philips Player.
> 
> thanks
> 
> n


It can all do that and will get a bitstream update for atmos etc.

BUT, for now the x1 does work correctly with the 60/5040ub.


----------



## MaximTre

c.kingsley said:


> Finally got my Silver Ticket 120" 1.1 gain screen installed last night. I had to do a lot of tweaking because the brightness was so much higher than the flat gray wall I was projecting on. Viewing distance is about 12' from screen.
> 
> I watched Warcraft UHD last night with the following settings:
> 
> Digital Cinema
> Gamma 1
> Iris -2
> HDR1
> Brightness 44
> Contrast 65
> Color Saturation 60
> 
> Wow. This movie pops off the screen. There are several scenes where it was literally like looking through a window. Not the best movie I've ever seen, but plenty of demo material.
> 
> I also bought UHD calibration patterns from mascior. He's done a tremendous job putting together a UHD test pattern set. They can be found here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...98-r-masciola-s-hdr-10-uhd-test-patterns.html
> 
> I will test how these settings stand up tonight.


Are you 100% sure about contrast @ 65? I believe you should go lower than 50 (using hdr1) to avoid white crush.


----------



## MaximTre

jbarteli said:


> It can all do that and will get a bitstream update for atmos etc.
> 
> BUT, for now the x1 does work correctly with the 60/5040ub.


It works fine (hdr on in movies) via wireless hdmi.
No hdr using the wired connection.
For hdr gaming (hdr @ 60hz), you need a linker or an integral or something like that (both wired and wireless hdmi)


----------



## RAJEEV NELLIYODAN

*HDMI Cable*



gnolivos said:


> I got this one, I love the quality and the price. Reviews are outstanding too!
> 
> HDMI Cable, TecBillion High Speed CL3 Rated 2.0 HDMI Cable, Braided HDMI Cord-Supports Ethernet,4K, 3D and Audio Return, 25 Feet, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E3MUSRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5OkgybPA4678J


thanks for the advice, place the order and got the cable delivered in 5 hrs thru Amazon. It works great, returning the http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...gLink-2470763\ hdmi cable. looks like the price is always not the factor.


----------



## c.kingsley

MaximTre said:


> Are you 100% sure about contrast @ 65? I believe you should go lower than 50 (using hdr1) to avoid white crush.


Nope, I'm not 100% sure yet as this was done entirely by eye. The UHD patterns I linked yesterday are currently in .ts format which won't play through the Philips. The author is reworking them as .mp4. I'll sanity check with the patterns once they are available.


----------



## gnolivos

RAJEEV NELLIYODAN said:


> thanks for the advice, place the order and got the cable delivered in 5 hrs thru Amazon. It works great, returning the http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_i...gLink-2470763\ hdmi cable. looks like the price is always not the factor.




Excellent. I think the quality is great and yes it does work perfectly for me on a tricky run close to power lines.


----------



## xrider

I have just installed my new 5040ub.
Its connected via PC and gtx 1070.
I am having problems with the text in 4K on windows. But when watching 4K videos on youtube it looks sharp ?
Also some 4K videos on youtube is rely laggy. But watching them on my qhd screen its all good. Anyone else having this problem ?


----------



## xrider

xrider said:


> I have just installed my new 5040ub.
> Its connected via PC and gtx 1070.
> I am having problems with the text in 4K on windows. But when watching 4K videos on youtube it looks sharp ?
> Also some 4K videos on youtube is rely laggy. But watching them on my qhd screen its all good. Anyone else having this problem ?


And I also have problem with the picture. The bottom horizontal line of the picture is bent downwards at the right side. I have it selling mounted, anyone else having this problem ?


----------



## hatlesschimp

The 9300 with 3 different movies. Interstellar is a funny film with how it jumps between cinemascope and 16:9. It not as bad as Ghost Busters with the rays going offscreen.


----------



## hoogs

xrider said:


> I have just installed my new 5040ub.
> Its connected via PC and gtx 1070.
> I am having problems with the text in 4K on windows. But when watching 4K videos on youtube it looks sharp ?
> Also some 4K videos on youtube is rely laggy. But watching them on my qhd screen its all good. Anyone else having this problem ?


Are you using Firefox? 4k was laggy in Firefox for me and smooth as butter in Edge of all browsers lol.


----------



## gnolivos

hatlesschimp said:


> The 9300 with 3 different movies. Interstellar is a funny film with how it jumps between cinemascope and 16:9. It not as bad as Ghost Busters with the rays going offscreen.
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/vLrOKCuKceQ




What is the name of the movie with the driving?


----------



## Dandlj

hatlesschimp said:


> That was a screen grab within the video. The video actually makes it look worse. Im sorry about using the phone to record with. I have no other camera. My good 4k camera broke. I should have another video ready tonight. Cheers




After all the talk that you must have dark rooms, which I appreciate = better picture, it's good to see what picture can be obtained in your kind of room. Looking forward to move videos. Nice work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

gnolivos said:


> What is the name of the movie with the driving?


Need for speed. 

It has a very good 7.1 sound track.


----------



## dvdwilly3

As I promised, I made a thread about the issue of my 6040 locking up when changing memory profiles (thanks, aaranddeeman.).

I included a PDF of the settings for the offending memory profiles...

Go here...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...n-switching-memory-profiles.html#post47939633

Sorry, I don't know how to post a link to it...

As Epson gives me information, I will bring it back to that thread...


----------



## c.kingsley

xrider said:


> I have just installed my new 5040ub.
> Its connected via PC and gtx 1070.
> I am having problems with the text in 4K on windows. But when watching 4K videos on youtube it looks sharp ?
> Also some 4K videos on youtube is rely laggy. But watching them on my qhd screen its all good. Anyone else having this problem ?


There are a couple issues at play here:

1. The projector can't resolve full 4k.
2. The projector can't do chroma 4:4:4 at 4k60.

Either one of these leads to poor text resolution. It is normal under these circumstances for text to appear "blocky" or unclear.


----------



## c.kingsley

I went ahead and hooked up my GTX 1070 to the 5040 directly to see what I could achieve and report my results.



3840x2160p60 works out of the box, but it is 4:2:0, I wouldn't recommend using it at this resolution. Text is mostly unreadable from normal distances.
3840x2160p24 works but it's too low of a framerate for daily display use.
2560x1440p60 is achievable with EDID override and a custom resolution (pic 1 and 2). This resolution would work for a primary display. Text scaling could use massaging.

That's all great but here is the real news...I've discovered the following:



1920x1080p*90* is achievable with EDID override. That's right, this projector will do 90Hz refresh at 1080p. If you intend to play PC games on the projector, this is a major development (pics 3, 4). To head off any questions, yes, I tried numerous other refresh rates between 60 and 144Hz. I stepped up to 90Hz in intervals of 1Hz after determining that 120Hz didn't work and 84Hz did.


----------



## Ronman79

c.kingsley said:


> Finally got my Silver Ticket 120" 1.1 gain screen installed last night. I had to do a lot of tweaking because the brightness was so much higher than the flat gray wall I was projecting on. Viewing distance is about 12' from screen.
> 
> I watched Warcraft UHD last night with the following settings:
> 
> Digital Cinema
> Gamma 1
> Iris -2
> HDR1
> Brightness 44
> Contrast 65
> Color Saturation 60
> 
> Wow. This movie pops off the screen. There are several scenes where it was literally like looking through a window. Not the best movie I've ever seen, but plenty of demo material.
> 
> I also bought UHD calibration patterns from mascior. He's done a tremendous job putting together a UHD test pattern set. They can be found here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...98-r-masciola-s-hdr-10-uhd-test-patterns.html
> 
> I will test how these settings stand up tonight.


Sounds great. Congrats! Eye candy doesn't hurt! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> I went ahead and hooked up my GTX 1070 to the 5040 directly to see what I could achieve and report my results.
> 
> 
> 
> 3840x2160p60 works out of the box, but it is 4:2:0, I wouldn't recommend using it at this resolution. Text is mostly unreadable from normal distances.
> 3840x2160p24 works but it's too low of a framerate for daily display use.
> 2560x1440p60 is achievable with EDID override and a custom resolution (pic 1 and 2). This resolution would work for a primary display. Text scaling could use massaging.
> 
> That's all great but here is the real news...I've discovered the following:
> 
> 
> 
> 1920x1080p*90* is achievable with EDID override. That's right, this projector will do 90Hz refresh at 1080p. If you intend to play PC games on the projector, this is a major development (pics 3, 4). To head off any questions, yes, I tried numerous other refresh rates between 60 and 144Hz. I stepped up to 90Hz in intervals of 1Hz after determining that 120Hz didn't work and 84Hz did.



Did you happen to try 96Hz, as that's an even multiple of 24Hz "film" sources?


----------



## Ronman79

hatlesschimp said:


> The 9300 with 3 different movies. Interstellar is a funny film with how it jumps between cinemascope and 16:9. It not as bad as Ghost Busters with the rays going offscreen.
> 
> https://youtu.be/vLrOKCuKceQ


Great stuff, man! Looking good... 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## casino187

deleted


----------



## MaximTre

c.kingsley said:


> I went ahead and hooked up my GTX 1070 to the 5040 directly to see what I could achieve and report my results.
> 
> That's all great but here is the real news...I've discovered the following:
> 
> 
> 
> 1920x1080p*90* is achievable with EDID override. That's right, this projector will do 90Hz refresh at 1080p. If you intend to play PC games on the projector, this is a major development (pics 3, 4). To head off any questions, yes, I tried numerous other refresh rates between 60 and 144Hz. I stepped up to 90Hz in intervals of 1Hz after determining that 120Hz didn't work and 84Hz did.


OMG, yes!
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks a LOT!
Will test later.


----------



## dataJunkie

c.kingsley said:


> I went ahead and hooked up my GTX 1070 to the 5040 directly to see what I could achieve and report my results.
> 
> 
> 
> 3840x2160p60 works out of the box, but it is 4:2:0, I wouldn't recommend using it at this resolution. Text is mostly unreadable from normal distances.
> 3840x2160p24 works but it's too low of a framerate for daily display use.
> 2560x1440p60 is achievable with EDID override and a custom resolution (pic 1 and 2). This resolution would work for a primary display. Text scaling could use massaging.
> 
> That's all great but here is the real news...I've discovered the following:
> 
> 
> 
> 1920x1080p*90* is achievable with EDID override. That's right, this projector will do 90Hz refresh at 1080p. If you intend to play PC games on the projector, this is a major development (pics 3, 4). To head off any questions, yes, I tried numerous other refresh rates between 60 and 144Hz. I stepped up to 90Hz in intervals of 1Hz after determining that 120Hz didn't work and 84Hz did.


OK, this is a bit of a revelation now ... have the same setup as you c.kingsley. So can I ask how I'd go about an EDID Override? 
Many thanks for your efforts  !

n


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> Did you happen to try 96Hz, as that's an even multiple of 24Hz "film" sources?


I did, 90Hz is the max it can muster. I should note that I had fauK enabled. I'm not sure if disabling it might lead to a higher result. My initial test stepped down 144 -> 120 -> 96 -> 84. Once I had success at 84, I bumped 1Hz at a time until it stopped getting sync. I tried a variety of refresh rates surrounding each of those numbers hoping to get lucky.

Yes that pattern should have led me to 72 not 84 but I wasn't paying attention.  It does work at 72Hz as well.


----------



## c.kingsley

dataJunkie said:


> OK, this is a bit of a revelation now ... have the same setup as you c.kingsley. So can I ask how I'd go about an EDID Override?
> Many thanks for your efforts  !
> 
> n


1. Download Custom Resolution Utility.
2. Set your resolution to 1080p.
3. Open CRU as an administrator.
4. Edit 1920x1080p to 59Hz (or 90Hz).
5. Click OK.
6. Reboot.

This is used to force chroma 4:4:4 output. Notice how my Nvidia control panel says "PC display" not TV or HDTV. You can make custom resolutions right inside CRU but its more user friendly to use the nvidia tool. Unfortunately the Nvidia tool will prevent you from changing many things because they are "unsupported by the display". CRU will let you override that behavior. Playing with CRU and custom resolutions is a rabbit hole, so be fair and forewarned. It can take quite a bit of tinkering to get it right.

So with that said, I think you can create the 90Hz refresh directly in Nvidia control panel as a custom resolution. Try that first!


----------



## MaximTre

c.kingsley said:


> I did, 90Hz is the max it can muster. I should note that I had fauK enabled. I'm not sure if disabling it might lead to a higher result. My initial test stepped down 144 -> 120 -> 96 -> 84. Once I had success at 84, I bumped 1Hz at a time until it stopped getting sync. I tried a variety of refresh rates surrounding each of those numbers hoping to get lucky.
> 
> Yes that pattern should have led me to 72 not 84 but I wasn't paying attention.  It does work at 72Hz as well.


Everything works as intended, but I noticed @90hz I get a lot of judder, games aren't smooth at all (it not my pc, 6 cores, 12 threads and a 1070 shuld be enough for 1080p).
I tried vsync on/off, rivatuner, nothing got rid of the judder.
Is the epson to blame or is something specific to 90hz (I have no experience on more than 60hz)?

PS: I used Nvidia control panel to create the resolution


----------



## c.kingsley

MaximTre said:


> Everything works as intended, but I noticed @90hz I get a lot of judder, games aren't smooth at all (it not my pc, 6 cores, 12 threads and a 1070 shuld be enough for 1080p).
> I tried vsync on/off, rivatuner, nothing got rid of the judder.
> Is the epson to blame or is something specific to 90hz (I have no experience on more than 60hz)?
> 
> PS: I used Nvidia control panel to create the resolution


I'm not sure, I didn't try any gaming. I was flipping windows around the screen and they seemed smooth to me. What is your FPS in game? It sounds like you're dipping down to a lower framerate. You'd be surprised re: performance. There are quite a few new games that still can't hit 1080p 60Hz locked on a GTX 1080 with the graphics settings turned up. Did you try 84 or 72, same result?


----------



## MaximTre

c.kingsley said:


> I'm not sure, I didn't try any gaming. I was flipping windows around the screen and they seemed smooth to me. What is your FPS in game? It sounds like you're dipping down to a lower framerate. You'd be surprised re: performance. There are quite a few new games that still can't hit 1080p 60Hz locked on a GTX 1080 with the graphics settings turned up. Did you try 84 or 72, same result?


FPS are locked @ 90fps, performance is not the problem, I monitored them.
I haven't tried 84 or 72, will try later, and report.


----------



## c.kingsley

MaximTre said:


> FPS are locked @ 90fps, performance is not the problem, I monitored them.
> I haven't tried 84 or 72, will try later, and report.


Try with e-shift off and on as well.


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys. I have a little blue spot on my screen as well as a white circle. I believed it to be dust blobs but I took it to a local repair center and he said he went in and cleaned it up and there's no dust behind the lens. Got it home and both are still showing up on a dark image. Any ideas?




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

c.kingsley said:


> Try with e-shift off and on as well.


We had the same idea, but that's not the problem.
84hz and 72hz show the same stutter, I think it's the projector.


----------



## exm

Question for Marantz AV8802 owners (I also posted this in the Marantz AV8002 forums). After I unpacked and connected my brand new 8802A (replacing an 8801), I encountered this problem: when I connect the BJC HDMI cable, I briefly see a picture (maybe 1 second) and then the screen turns black. When I unplug/replug the cable, I see the screen again for a second until it turns black. 

I finally got this fixed y disabling the 4k Enhancement in the 6040UB Projector. I tried disabling 4k upconverting in the Marantz but that didn't help. I also tried setting the Marantz to 1080P ouput. No luck. So disabling the projector 4k Enhancement works. Not sure if I like this approach. Any thoughts, experiences?


----------



## hatlesschimp

I tried that 90hz trick but couldnt get a signal. Here is some Battlefield 1 with the 6040ub + 18" Subwoofer. My house is still standing btw😀😄


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> ........This is used to force chroma 4:4:4 output. Notice how my Nvidia control panel says "PC display" not TV or HDTV. .....



This is what I've been trying to say that seems to help the image look better when I use the XBox One S and set it to PC RGB mode. The XB1S is basically just a dedicated Windows PC after all. Anyone know of a way to get into any "back door" settings on one so I can try some further tweaks?



c.kingsley said:


> I'm not sure, I didn't try any gaming. I was flipping windows around the screen and they seemed smooth to me. What is your FPS in game? It sounds like you're dipping down to a lower framerate. You'd be surprised re: performance. There are quite a few new games that still can't hit 1080p 60Hz locked on a GTX 1080 with the graphics settings turned up. Did you try 84 or 72, same result?






MaximTre said:


> We had the same idea, but that's not the problem.
> 
> 84hz and 72hz show the same stutter, I think it's the projector.



Is the game mastered in 30 or 60 Fps. If 60 then the judder/studder is most likely from the 90Hz not being an even multiple of that. Similar to how when we could see it when watching a 24Hz/Fps movie on an old 60Hz TV without good 3:2 pulldown.


----------



## JewDaddy

hatlesschimp said:


> I tried that 90hz trick but couldnt get a signal. Here is some Battlefield 1 with the 6040ub + 18" Subwoofer. My house is still standing btw😀😄
> 
> https://youtu.be/Jj9FggUSR6Y


Very awesome my friend!!!

I play battlefield 1 on PC with my Dolby atoms system and it's out of this world impressive.


----------



## Ronman79

@hatlesschimp,

Stinkin' awesome! Great stuff you did with the video effects, too....like that!


----------



## Waboman

hatlesschimp said:


> I tried that 90hz trick but couldnt get a signal. Here is some Battlefield 1 with the 6040ub + 18" Subwoofer. My house is still standing btw😀😄
> 
> https://youtu.be/Jj9FggUSR6Y


Love it!


----------



## hatlesschimp

Waboman said:


> Love it!


Cheers bud!


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> Is the game mastered in 30 or 60 Fps. If 60 then the judder/studder is most likely from the 90Hz not being an even multiple of that. Similar to how when we could see it when watching a 24Hz/Fps movie on an old 60Hz TV without good 3:2 pulldown.


Games on pc don't work like that, some games are tied to a specific refresh, but the majority isn't.
PC gaming monitors can reach 144hz.
I think epson electronic can't handle frames higher than 60, but that's ok, it's not a feature supported at all.


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> Games on pc don't work like that, some games are tied to a specific refresh, but the majority isn't.
> 
> PC gaming monitors can reach 144hz.
> 
> I think epson electronic can't handle frames higher than 60, but that's ok, it's not a feature supported at all.



OK thanks. I'm not a gamer at all really and what little I do with my son is on a console.


----------



## c.kingsley

hatlesschimp said:


> I tried that 90hz trick but couldnt get a signal. Here is some Battlefield 1 with the 6040ub + 18" Subwoofer. My house is still standing btw😀😄


Were you directly connected to the 6040 or passing through a receiver? I was directly connected FWIW.


----------



## c.kingsley

MaximTre said:


> Games on pc don't work like that, some games are tied to a specific refresh, but the majority isn't.


MaximTre is absolutely correct about this.

Most games allow you to unlock the framerate (disable Vsync) in their settings. This will cause the card to render as many frames per second as it can at a given quality. If you want to game at 60Hz, ideally your GPU is rendering well in excess of 60fps at all times, because nothing takes you out of the game more than dipping down to 30-40fps which turns 60Hz output into a slideshow. Disabling Vsync can lead to screen tearing when FPS > refresh rate, which some people find distracting.

You can enable Vsync and lock the FPS at the refresh of the display, but what happens when you dip to say 59fps on 60Hz output is the game drops to some multiple of 60Hz and this effect is jarring. In some games Vsync has a performance impact as well, so for best performance it should be disabled. If you are certain that the GPU can sustain FPS = Refresh at all times then it is alright to enable Vsync to avoid tearing.

I will drag my PC to the PJ room later and see if I can't duplicate MaximTre's experience.


----------



## c.kingsley

General question to GTX 1070/1080 owners:

Excluding games, what tools or programs are you using to playback content with HDR? For example, let's say I have some HDR content samples on my PC. How do I transport this to the display as HDR? When I'm connected to the display so far it seems to be SDR 709.


----------



## abs

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. I have a little blue spot on my screen as well as a white circle. I believed it to be dust blobs but I took it to a local repair center and he said he went in and cleaned it up and there's no dust behind the lens. Got it home and both are still showing up on a dark image. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's the only thing putting me off buying this pj because of dust blobs. I'm considering the Epson 10k or 10.5k laser pj instead. 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## c.kingsley

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. I have a little blue spot on my screen as well as a white circle. I believed it to be dust blobs but I took it to a local repair center and he said he went in and cleaned it up and there's no dust behind the lens. Got it home and both are still showing up on a dark image. Any ideas?


What was the reasoning behind taking it to a repair center instead of initiating a support call with Epson? Chances are they'll ship you out a new projector right away...


----------



## firefox20000

Has anyone tested a PS4pro with 5040/6040ub?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

I got small dot that appear to be a dust blob. After it was inspected by epson repair store they told me to use the current one until the replacement arrive in few days. 
Watched Angry Birds (UHD) today & it looked great, totally demo material.


----------



## abs

So they're just gonna give you a replacement unit because of a dust blob? That's good of Epson. I thought they'd only replace if it was due to a dead pixel? I was all set on buying one until owners like you said they had dust blobs. This has put me off now. 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## Jackattack51

firefox20000 said:


> Has anyone tested a PS4pro with 5040/6040ub?


I'm very interested in some test results from the PS4 Pro as well but it isn't shipping to consumers until November 10th. Maybe we'll get lucky and some place like digital foundry will comment on how it performs withs TVs capped with HDMI ports stuck at 10.2GBPs before it ships to consumers. My PS4 Pro is arriving on the 10th and will report back anything I find. I don't have a 5040 yet but I hope to get one soon if the ps4 pro plays nice with it.


----------



## WynsWrld98

c.kingsley said:


> What was the reasoning behind taking it to a repair center instead of initiating a support call with Epson? Chances are they'll ship you out a new projector right away...


Be careful with the use of the word "new", more likely a "refurb". Personally if I have a Epson projector with no known issues of things such as convergence (other than what it's going in for repair for) I'll be shipping my projector in and getting it back vs. getting a refurb back with unknown issues.


----------



## shelly40

Just got home from the store with a 5040UB.......

This is a long thread.......

Does anyone know what post # has some good settings to get started with ?

Thanks

Shelly


----------



## exm

shelly40 said:


> Just got home from the store with a 5040UB.......
> 
> This is a long thread.......
> 
> Does anyone know what post # has some good settings to get started with ?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Shelly


http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-projector-calibration-settings/


----------



## dvdwilly3

exm said:


> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-projector-calibration-settings/


I am using some settings on my 6040 that have yielded very good results...UHD and bluray running off of a Panasonic UB900.

TiVo

HDTV for 4K off of Netflix, Amazon, etc. that I have not played with yet...


----------



## siuengr

exm said:


> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-projector-calibration-settings/


Thanks, I just got mine hooked up today and was coming to look for the settings.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

abs said:


> So they're just gonna give you a replacement unit because of a dust blob? That's good of Epson. I thought they'd only replace if it was due to a dead pixel? I was all set on buying one until owners like you said they had dust blobs. This has put me off now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk




dont think the dust blobs is that common of an issue that should affect ur buying decision. They took my unit for two days to send a technical report to Epson in order to approve the replacement. And they r going to replace it with a new one not refurb (because the shop is requesting it from their other branch in different city)


----------



## abs

ana_moo_ana said:


> dont think the dust blobs is that common of an issue that should affect ur buying decision. They took my unit for two days to send a technical report to Epson in order to approve the replacement. And they r going to replace it with a new one not refurb (because the shop is requesting it from their other branch in different city)


I think you're the second owner that's mentioned it. 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## ana_moo_ana

abs said:


> I think you're the second owner that's mentioned it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk




yes, but if it was common issue u will see many people complaining. many retailers will allow u to exchange if it's within the 7 days period.


----------



## drdig

exm said:


> Question for Marantz AV8802 owners (I also posted this in the Marantz AV8002 forums). After I unpacked and connected my brand new 8802A (replacing an 8801), I encountered this problem: when I connect the BJC HDMI cable, I briefly see a picture (maybe 1 second) and then the screen turns black. When I unplug/replug the cable, I see the screen again for a second until it turns black.
> 
> I finally got this fixed y disabling the 4k Enhancement in the 6040UB Projector. I tried disabling 4k upconverting in the Marantz but that didn't help. I also tried setting the Marantz to 1080P ouput. No luck. So disabling the projector 4k Enhancement works. Not sure if I like this approach. Any thoughts, experiences?


In my Marantz 8802A I can not see HDR with HDMI output.
However, yes I can see it in the HDMI 2 output.
It has not happened with any other projector.
Look at my room to see the cables and equipment that use.


----------



## little_donkey

Is it worth upgrading to a 5040 coming from a Sony HW55? I like the Sony but I'm wondering if I should wait or upgrade now? How much better is it? 

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


----------



## Jimcarus

firefox20000 said:


> Has anyone tested a PS4pro with 5040/6040ub?


The PS Pro will allow a resolution of 2160 yuv420 at 60hz which means, so far, no HDR with games in 4k. I can get HDR with it on 1080p. This is selected from inside the game. Netflix is the only app that has been updated for 4k at this point. On a side note, the psvr looks much better on the pro. The only issue I've had so far is sometimes when switching between resolutions it decides I no longer have hdcp 2.2 and defaults to 1.4 and is only rectified by a pj reboot. I have played the last of us and first light in HDR and they both look beautiful.


----------



## firefox20000

Jimcarus said:


> The PS Pro will allow a resolution of 2160 yuv420 at 60hz which means, so far, no HDR with games in 4k. I can get HDR with it on 1080p. This is selected from inside the game. Netflix is the only app that has been updated for 4k at this point. On a side note, the psvr looks much better on the pro. The only issue I've had so far is sometimes when switching between resolutions it decides I no longer have hdcp 2.2 and defaults to 1.4 and is only rectified by a pj reboot. I have played the last of us and first light in HDR and they both look beautiful.


No way to get the pro in 4K/30p/HDR-Mode?


----------



## Jimcarus

firefox20000 said:


> No way to get the pro in 4K/30p/HDR-Mode?


Not currently. In the menu it says "HDR on your TV Only 2K supported"


----------



## pbels

gnolivos said:


> Well after 8 years I finally upgraded my trusty and awesome Sanyo Z2000 with this Epson 5400UB. FANTASTIC PROJECTOR. I spent 6 hours last night quickly calibrating Cinema and Bright Cinema mode, and watching blu-ray (PS3) as well as Cable TV (TWC).
> 
> I have a 110" acoustically Transparent 1.0 gain screen in a completely dedicated and blacked out room with only minor reflection from surrounding dark walls.
> 
> My first impressions are very good!
> 
> The contrast is exceptional and the black levels are fantastic. I am using the auto iris, and I find that completely dark scenes are detailed and with deep pleasing black levels, and mixed scenes look terrific without 'dull whites'. Your typical credit screens with black background and white scrolling text show very bright white letters with very deep dark background. My old PJ could not achieve this even with dynamic gamma trickery.
> 
> The brightness is over the top for a dedicated dark room. I have to use Bright Cinema in eco mode *and* clamp the IRIS down about -8. In Cinema mode (which is darker) I have it set up to Eco. This means that as the bulb ages I will have plenty of headroom to bump the lamp brightness to compensate.
> 
> Projector is louder than my Z2000 (which was probably the quietest 1080p projector ever built), but nothing that I can hear with movie soundtracks over it. It sits about 4 feet over my head.
> 
> Motorized lens focus, shift, and zoom are a godsend, and a very high end feature I wasn't expecting even at the $3000 mark. Love the lens cover too.
> 
> One bonus for me is that usually I see a moire pattern with AT screens and 1080p projectors that have sharp pixel structure. When displaying 1080p mode it had the structure. however when using the 4K upscale feature the moire was virtually gone (almost impossible to spot). This is a godsend for me.
> 
> Remote is very good! Lots of useful buttons there for the tweaker that likes to compare settings.
> 
> I did have ONE problem which may or may not be serious. I was switching between Cinema and Bright Cinema and the screen blacked out (like it normally does between switching) but it stayed black. I tried everything but the only way out was to unplug the Projector. Looked like a software issue to me. Anyone else had this?


Can you please send calibration settings for 5040
Thank you


----------



## pbels

*New owner*

Just installed the 6040 pairing it with xbox oneS
Today we will watch football and my son will play video games on it. I will report back ASAP. By the way paired it with the new Marantz 6011 (will be adding Atmos speakers soon)
Will try to post images tonight

Calibration settings would be helpful from anyone who has dialed this projector in.


----------



## abs

ana_moo_ana said:


> yes, but if it was common issue u will see many people complaining. many retailers will allow u to exchange if it's within the 7 days period.


I think more owners will encounter this problem. I think the 5030 was also plagued by this issue. .My Sony vw95 had a sealed light path and never encountered any dust issues. Unlike previous Panasonic/Sharp units I've owned that got dust blobs. It was refreshing when I moved to Sony and didn't have to worry about dust issues. It's such a shame that Epson didn't utilise a sealed path learning from issues with past units. I'm looking at the Epson laser pj or back to Sony. 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

abs said:


> I think more owners will encounter this problem. I think the 5030 was also plagued by this issue. .My Sony vw95 had a sealed light path and never encountered any dust issues. Unlike previous Panasonic/Sharp units I've owned that got dust blobs. It was refreshing when I moved to Sony and didn't have to worry about dust issues. It's such a shame that Epson didn't utilise a sealed path learning from issues with past units. I'm looking at the Epson laser pj or back to Sony.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


As someone mentioned before, LCDs can not be sealed due to heat issues.
So unless you move away from LCD, this "issue" will be present.
To that I liked the cleaver idea Sanyo(Z2000) had. They provided a user cleanable way to clean the LCD panels by blowing air through designated holes using supplied hand blower.
None other manufacturer provides this. But I never needed it to-date.


----------



## firefox20000

Jimcarus said:


> Not currently. In the menu it says "HDR on your TV Only 2K supported"



menu ps4pro-videosettings or mean you ingame-menu?

is the netflix-app output 4k/30p/hdr or only 4k/60p/8-bit?


----------



## hatlesschimp

Here is the PS4 / Fifa 17 on the 6040ub / 9300. I went through the settings and tried different camera angles. I really like that you can zoom the camera right out on a Projector and see more of the pitch. I normally roll with the COOP Camera, it helps with long balls! lol


----------



## Jimcarus

firefox20000 said:


> menu ps4pro-videosettings or mean you ingame-menu?
> 
> is the netflix-app output 4k/30p/hdr or only 4k/60p/8-bit?


It's in the PS4 Video options menu. In game you start in 4K and can then turn HDR on within the games options which turns off 4K.

Netflix is 4k/60p/8-bit.


----------



## MaximTre

Jimcarus said:


> It's in the PS4 Video options menu. In game you start in 4K and can then turn HDR on within the games options which turns off 4K.
> 
> Netflix is 4k/60p/8-bit.


That's very interesting.
Lucky you, you got the pro earlier, I have to wait a few days.
I can compare with the One S I already have.
The Xbox has no hdr option for 1080p, 4k or nothing, so due to epson hdmi limitation hdr gaming is not possible.
BUT with a hdfury linker hdr gaming is "unlocked" (4k/60hz/4:2:0/8bit).
I don't think the One S renders games @10bit (there's clear banding even on a 10bit Samsung KS8000), so I guess nothing is lost. I'd really like to see what the PS4 Pro can do about that.
HDR on standard PS4 is fine, as it'a 1080p signal.


----------



## Jimcarus

Jimcarus said:


> It's in the PS4 Video options menu. In game you start in 4K and can then turn HDR on within the games options which turns off 4K.
> 
> Netflix is 4k/60p/8-bit.


I also have the Xbox One S and think I'll use the Pro more. When the Pro is in 1080P/60 HDR mode the Epson menu displays 12 Bit BT2020 and defaults to HDR2 - you can then add the Epsons 4K enhancement.


----------



## MaximTre

Jimcarus said:


> When the Pro is in 1080P/60 HDR mode the Epson menu displays 12 Bit BT2020 and defaults to HDR2 - you can then add the Epsons 4K enhancement.


I think it's the exact same signal as the standard ps4, which can't render @10bit, I'm really curious about the Pro.


----------



## filter_sweep

Jimcarus said:


> I also have the Xbox One S and think I'll use the Pro more. When the Pro is in 1080P/60 HDR mode the Epson menu displays 12 Bit BT2020 and defaults to HDR2 - you can then add the Epsons 4K enhancement.




Thank you for your recent posts about the PS4 Pro. I've been 90% sure I wanted one even in spite of the 5040's limitations, but wasn't sure it would all work like I'd hoped it would, but your posts confirm it will and now I'm 100% convinced I will get it. Thanks!


----------



## ndabunka

little_donkey said:


> Is it worth upgrading to a 5040 coming from a Sony HW55? I like the Sony but I'm wondering if I should wait or upgrade now? How much better is it?
> 
> Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


I came from the HW50ES and all I can say is that the 4K enhancement capabilities alone make for a MUCH sharper image. I had previously avoided LCD due to SDE and while the Sony was a good quality projector, the Epson 5040 puts it to shame in every way except possible in regards to 3D where the hw55es may have a slight advantage IMHO


----------



## BamaDave

Has anybody upgraded a 6030 to the 6040? I'm just curious about their opinion and did they upgrade their HDMI cable or just retain the same? Also, I would like opinions on the source material specific to DirecTV HD viewing? Thanks for your time responding to my questions!


David


----------



## aaranddeeman

BamaDave said:


> Has anybody upgraded a 6030 to the 6040? I'm just curious about their opinion and did they upgrade their HDMI cable or just retain the same? Also, I would like opinions on the source material specific to DirecTV HD viewing? Thanks for your time responding to my questions!
> 
> 
> David


HDMI will be YMMV.. (Depending on length and gauge of the current cable)


----------



## jakowako

I am looking to upgrade to the 6040 from an Epson 6020 next February. I had the opportunity to view 1080p Blu-ray content with 4K enhancement on a 6040 and was very pleased by the overall picture on the new projector. I did not have the chance to view any Ultra HD 4K HDR content since my friend has yet to purchase an Ultra 4K player (they are undecided on the Philips or waiting for the Oppo). Unfortunately, this is what I was hoping to view. With Best Buys' recent buy 1 get 1 half off Ultra HD sale, Fox Connects recent sale and the coming Black Friday prices, I already have a stack of moveis ready to go with the intent of purchasing more soon. While I know it is best to view things with you own eyes before making a decision, can those with the experience of viewing Ultra HD 4K HDR content on this projector express some opinions? Was is worth the upgrade from 1080p enhanced? Any impressions would be very much appreciated.


----------



## ultrabubu

Can anyone tell me please, is the 5040ub the analog ,european model, to the tw-7300 or the 9300? Have an Sony 40es and want to upgrade first, for the motorized optic and for a potentially better and sharper image; is the 5040 much sharper then the sony?


----------



## mhendu

*Lens memory imprecise*

Have had this projector for about a month now - have been noticing that the lens memory is imprecise. I set it for 16x9 and 2.4:1 and noticed that it will consistently set the 16x9 mode a little below the top of my screen, even if I correct it and resave the memory. For 2.4:1 it will shift a little left of the border of my screen. I tried adjusting it higher than the border for 16x9 and instead of correcting for the error it ended up staying above the top border of the screen - it's like the lens memory works on larger units than the actual lens shift supports. I can correct for these issues with the motorized lens shift but it seems odd that the projector won't really remember the exact position when it's capable of being dialed in with the remote. I didn't have this problem with my old Panasonic projector.

Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## jbarteli

I have the same issue, but the sony vw95 I had before was even more impressie and the sharpness was always off.


----------



## ultrabubu

mhendu said:


> Have had this projector for about a month now - have been noticing that the lens memory is imprecise. I set it for 16x9 and 2.4:1 and noticed that it will consistently set the 16x9 mode a little below the top of my screen, even if I correct it and resave the memory. For 2.4:1 it will shift a little left of the border of my screen. I tried adjusting it higher than the border for 16x9 and instead of correcting for the error it ended up staying above the top border of the screen - it's like the lens memory works on larger units than the actual lens shift supports. I can correct for these issues with the motorized lens shift but it seems odd that the projector won't really remember the exact position when it's capable of being dialed in with the remote. I didn't have this problem with my old Panasonic projector.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this?


You mean the 5040ub?


----------



## mhendu

ultrabubu said:


> You mean the 5040ub?


Well, technically the 6040ub, but I imagine both behave in the same way.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ultrabubu said:


> can anyone tell me please, is the 5040ub the analog ,european model, to the tw-7300 or the 9300?



tw-9300


----------



## pasender91

> Quote:
> Originally Posted by ultrabubu View Post
> can anyone tell me please, is the 5040ub the analog ,european model, to the tw-7300 or the 9300?
> 
> tw-9300


Incorrect !
The correct mapping is:
5040 => 7300
6040 => 9300

When will vendors use once and for all the same references for the same products ????


----------



## ultrabubu

mhendu said:


> Well, technically the 6040ub, but I imagine both behave in the same way.


I think you're right that both will have the same motorized optics; I have a cinemascope screen and want a projector with motorized optics to take it out,in a separate (projection) room and use the image presets to change between different aspects.When you say that the lens memory is unprecise, I have concerns in buying this projector The precision of the lens memory is almost more important to me as the image diference between my sony hw40 and the epson.


----------



## ultrabubu

ana_moo_ana said:


> tw-9300





pasender91 said:


> Incorrect !
> The correct mapping is:
> 5040 => 7300
> 6040 => 9300
> 
> When will vendors use once and for all the same references for the same products ????


The 5040ub has an dynamic contrast ratio of 1.000.000/1 ,right ?
the 7300 has a ratio of 160.000/1 and the 9300 a ratio of
1.000.000/1


----------



## jbarteli

pasender91 said:


> Incorrect !
> The correct mapping is:
> 5040 => 7300
> 6040 => 9300
> 
> When will vendors use once and for all the same references for the same products ????


No thats incorrect.


----------



## rogermoore123

pasender91 said:


> Incorrect !
> The correct mapping is:
> 5040 => 7300
> 6040 => 9300
> 
> When will vendors use once and for all the same references for the same products ????


Incorrect !
4040 => 7300
5040 => 8300
6040 => 9300


----------



## ultrabubu

Didn't hear from an 8300😳😳


----------



## MaximTre

rogermoore123 said:


> Incorrect !
> 4040 => 7300
> 5040 => 8300
> 6040 => 9300


Incorrect too.
No 6040 in europe (it really is a 5040 with an additional lamp and something else, maybe addittional warranty? European standard warranty is 2 years).
8300 is a non existant model in Europe, I think it's an Australian model only. It looks like Australia as no 4040/7300.
It's all very confusing for no reason.

Looking at epson websites around the world I'd say:

6040 US = 9300 AU
5040 US = 9300 EU = 8300 AU
4040 US = 7300 EU

http://www.epson.co.uk/products/projectors [EUROPE]
http://www.epson.com.au/products/home-theatre-projectors/?grouptypeID=32 [AUSTRALIA]


----------



## gnolivos

Yes, lens memory recall is imprecise. Same problem here.


----------



## dvdwilly3

Would/could someone with the proper permissions set up a sticky thread something like "5040/6040 projector settings with screen shots"?

There have been a number of requests similar to this and I think that there are a variety of equipment chains, i.e. Source/AVR/projector that may come into play so it could get messy.

I think that new owners, in particular, would benefit from such a thread. My installer set up one setting which was based on bluray and that just is not enough. There is not simply one setting that will serve for all sources.

For example, watching Westworld last night off of a TiVo Roamio, my wife asked me, "Is this a 3D picture?" She knows that the projector will do 3D. And, of course, it wasn't, but I would like to post my settings and some screen shots.

I have posted screen shots and I know that others have, sometimes with settings. I just think that all of that should be in one location...

Somebody?


----------



## ultrabubu

ultrabubu said:


> I think you're right that both will have the same motorized optics; I have a cinemascope screen and want a projector with motorized optics to take it out,in a separate (projection) room and use the image presets to change between different aspects.When you say that the lens memory is unprecise, I have concerns in buying this projector The precision of the lens memory is almost more important to me as the image diference between my sony hw40 and the epson.


Whit "a little ", you mean about over or under 1"??


----------



## ultrabubu

mhendu said:


> Have had this projector for about a month now - have been noticing that the lens memory is imprecise. I set it for 16x9 and 2.4:1 and noticed that it will consistently set the 16x9 mode a little below the top of my screen, even if I correct it and resave the memory. For 2.4:1 it will shift a little left of the border of my screen. I tried adjusting it higher than the border for 16x9 and instead of correcting for the error it ended up staying above the top border of the screen - it's like the lens memory works on larger units than the actual lens shift supports. I can correct for these issues with the motorized lens shift but it seems odd that the projector won't really remember the exact position when it's capable of being dialed in with the remote. I didn't have this problem with my old Panasonic projector.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this?


Whit "a little" you mean over or under 1"?


----------



## ultrabubu

gnolivos said:


> Yes, lens memory recall is imprecise. Same problem here.


Can you be more specific?


----------



## dvdwilly3

Fairly recently, someone asked why I set the Color Temperature setting to 6500K (D65) on my 6040. This article explains why with a very good example picture showing why it is what should be used. 

Unless, of course, you desire a warmer or cooler picture...

https://www.cnet.com/news/what-is-tv-color-temperature-and-why-does-it-matter/


----------



## abs

I've put my order of the 6040 on hold because of the dust blob issue and looking at the laser pj instead. Can owners of the 6040 confirm how long they've owned their pj hours etc and if there are any significant blobs?

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

abs said:


> I've put my order of the 6040 on hold because of the dust blob issue and looking at the laser pj instead. Can owners of the 6040 confirm how long they've owned their pj hours etc and if there are any significant blobs?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


There is a substantial cost increase with that option, just to deal with dust blobs (that are fairly rare and Epson can clean them for free) alone. 
May be you should look at other brand instead.


----------



## abs

aaranddeeman said:


> There is a substantial cost increase with that option, just to deal with dust blobs (that are fairly rare and Epson can clean them for free) alone.
> May be you should look at other brand instead.


Couldn't live with dust blobs. .and couldn't be bothered having to send it back for cleaning and possibly being sent a refurbished unit. 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## Turbonetix

I'm really considering going with this for my theater. I'm curious about the noise level and the gaming lag tho.


----------



## weboperations

I see several people having issues with various UHD blu ray players and the compatibility with the 5040/6040. 

Can someone confirm the UHD players that have no issues? I'm about to purchase both and don't want to be stuck with an incompatible player. 

Obviously I'd like both 4K and HDR to work without a hitch. 

Thanks


----------



## Ronman79

Turbonetix said:


> I'm really considering going with this for my theater. I'm curious about the noise level and the gaming lag tho.


People are saying that noise level is very low on the low and medium settings. I've witnessed this as well. Gaming is great on the Epson, with just under 30ms lag. This is one thing that makes me look at it over the JVC. I've been trying to decide which would suit me best overall....

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

weboperations said:


> I see several people having issues with various UHD blu ray players and the compatibility with the 5040/6040.
> 
> Can someone confirm the UHD players that have no issues? I'm about to purchase both and don't want to be stuck with an incompatible player.
> 
> Obviously I'd like both 4K and HDR to work without a hitch.
> 
> Thanks


It seems that many have been very happy with the Philips for cost/quality compatibility. Also seems that the Panasonic has been the best overall, but it's also the most expensive. Samsung has recently patched their player, and others are saying that it plays nicely with the Epsons now. That said, I think I'm going to get the upcoming Oppo 203, due out soon. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## trainfan

mhendu said:


> Have had this projector for about a month now - have been noticing that the lens memory is imprecise. I set it for 16x9 and 2.4:1 and noticed that it will consistently set the 16x9 mode a little below the top of my screen, even if I correct it and resave the memory. For 2.4:1 it will shift a little left of the border of my screen. I tried adjusting it higher than the border for 16x9 and instead of correcting for the error it ended up staying above the top border of the screen - it's like the lens memory works on larger units than the actual lens shift supports. I can correct for these issues with the motorized lens shift but it seems odd that the projector won't really remember the exact position when it's capable of being dialed in with the remote. I didn't have this problem with my old Panasonic projector.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this?


I am having the same issue, when switching from 16:9 tv to 2.35:1 zoom and lens shift, I still have to go back and adjust the lens shift a couple inches, I keep saving the lens memory but it just doesn't exactly go to the same position

Mine will be off in the vertical direction, about 2 or 3 inches


----------



## kaotikr1

Turbonetix said:


> I'm really considering going with this for my theater. I'm curious about the noise level and the gaming lag tho.


The noise level in Eco and Medium are very low, I would consider it a non factor. Gaming lag comes in around 29ms, which is among the fastest out there with only a few being faster. I could not tell the difference between the Epson 6040 and the Sony HW45ES. I had both in my room at the same time, being fed the same source via a Lumagen Pro.


----------



## gnolivos

ultrabubu said:


> Can you be more specific?




Not really. I'm having the same problem, as stated. So a few posts above describes very specifically. Not worth repeating!


----------



## timmyotule

trainfan said:


> Mine will be off in the vertical direction, about 2 or 3 inches


Is it consistently off in the same direction? Do you have a significant lens shift being used? How is the projector mounted in relation to the screen?

If the shift is off consistently I wonder if it would work to try and adjust for the error in the initial setting of the preset. I'm considering upgrading from my old trusty Panasonic AE2000U and a reliable automated zoom / shift function would be great to have.


----------



## gnolivos

Turbonetix said:


> I'm really considering going with this for my theater. I'm curious about the noise level and the gaming lag tho.




Wow, you are worried about this? These are the 2 areas where this Pj excells. I have no complaints there. And it's one of the fastest low lag HT pj out there.


----------



## siuengr

Turbonetix said:


> I'm really considering going with this for my theater. I'm curious about the noise level and the gaming lag tho.


I just got my 5040 installed this weekend, and I was surprised about the noise level. It was a little more than I expected. From reading this forum, I expected it to audible on high lamp, but nearly inaudible on medium or eco. I thought medium was still fairly audible, and eco was better, but still fairly audible. I was listening in a sealed room with nothing else running, so there was no ambient noise to mask it. If there was any sound it would generally mask the sound of the projector.


----------



## firefox20000

ndabunka said:


> I came from the HW50ES and all I can say is that the 4K enhancement capabilities alone make for a MUCH sharper image. I had previously avoided LCD due to SDE and while the Sony was a good quality projector, the Epson 5040 puts it to shame in every way except possible in regards to 3D where the hw55es may have a slight advantage IMHO



What´s about the Frame Interpolation? Which is better (HW50 or 5040/6040)?


----------



## dotorg

siuengr said:


> I just got my 5040 installed this weekend, and I was surprised about the noise level. It was a little more than I expected. From reading this forum, I expected it to audible on high lamp, but nearly inaudible on medium or eco. I thought medium was still fairly audible, and eco was better, but still fairly audible. I was listening in a sealed room with nothing else running, so there was no ambient noise to mask it. If there was any sound it would generally mask the sound of the projector.


FWIW, I was equally surprised. I upgraded from a 5030 to a 5040 (sold my old house and the buyers wanted the 5030). Three things really surprised me -- the 5040 is *way* heavier (turns out, 50% heavier!), WAY bigger, and its noticeably louder. Mine's mounted only about a foot behind the primary seating area, at ceiling level, and its both noticeable, and something multiple people (who aren't the type to notice that sort of thing) have commented on. I'd say in low mode the 5040 sounds about the same as the 5030 did in high mode, and in high mode its really not usable if its mounted right above your seating area. 

I'm happy with it, and its really quite a visual upgrade from the 5030, but anyone considering it (especially if they've heard the older model) should be aware its much louder than you'd expect... if you're someone who wants silence in your HT when the movie is silent, you should mount it well away from your seating area.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> Yes, lens memory recall is imprecise. Same problem here.


No issue with lens memory here. I was using two different lens memory settings for 2 different screens here. Naturally, the projector remains in the exact same place for both of these memory settings


----------



## trainfan

timmyotule said:


> Is it consistently off in the same direction? Do you have a significant lens shift being used? How is the projector mounted in relation to the screen?
> 
> If the shift is off consistently I wonder if it would work to try and adjust for the error in the initial setting of the preset. I'm considering upgrading from my old trusty Panasonic AE2000U and a reliable automated zoom / shift function would be great to have.



I tried saving a lens memory with an adjustment for the error but it still comes back to the wrong setting, about 1 inch too high.
Projector mounted about 16.5' away inverted from the ceiling to a 158" screen, Projector is zoomed all the way out. Very little lens shift needed, mounted pretty close to dead on center, 
Wondering if would help to tilt the projector down slightly?


----------



## timmyotule

trainfan said:


> I tried saving a lens memory with an adjustment for the error but it still comes back to the wrong setting, about 1 inch too high.
> Projector mounted about 16.5' away inverted from the ceiling to a 158" screen, Projector is zoomed all the way out. Very little lens shift needed, mounted pretty close to dead on center,
> Wondering if would help to tilt the projector down slightly?


Thanks, yeah it probably would work to tilt it down. But if the projector isn't square to the screen you'll get some keystoning. If you tilt down the bottom of the image will be wider than the top. It may not be noticeable though.

You could also try raising the projector an inch and readjusting the lens memory. Maybe it's lens adjustment only has a resolution of an inch or two.


----------



## trainfan

timmyotule said:


> Thanks, yeah it probably would work to tilt it down. But if the projector isn't square to the screen you'll get some keystoning. If you tilt down the bottom of the image will be wider than the top. It may not be noticeable though.
> 
> You could also try raising the projector an inch and readjusting the lens memory. Maybe it's lens adjustment only has a resolution of an inch or two.


I tilted the front of the projector down, which moved the image down about 6 inches, then re adjusted the lens shift, still doesn't want to quite line back up. 


Can't move the projector up it is about 3 inches from the ceiling.


----------



## ndabunka

ndabunka said:


> No issue with lens memory here. I was using two different lens memory settings for 2 different screens here. Naturally, the projector remains in the exact same place for both of these memory settings


One VERY important thing to remember with this projector is that there is a teeny tiny bit of adjusting that the projector itself does after the end of it's "adjustment" to the new lens memory position. I almost "over-corrected a few times myself so... Make the lens changes and then... WAIT .... at LEAST a minute or 120 seconds BEFORE you "save" that position otherwise you won't be saving the ACTUAL memory position. Good luck!


----------



## seplant

siuengr said:


> I just got my 5040 installed this weekend, and I was surprised about the noise level. It was a little more than I expected. From reading this forum, I expected it to audible on high lamp, but nearly inaudible on medium or eco. I thought medium was still fairly audible, and eco was better, but still fairly audible. I was listening in a sealed room with nothing else running, so there was no ambient noise to mask it. If there was any sound it would generally mask the sound of the projector.


Interesting that Epson specs the 6040 fan noise at 20 – 31 dB. The 6030 is rated at 22 dB – 32 dB, and the 6010 (which I would be coming from) was also rated at 22 dB – 32 dB, so the 6040 SHOULD produce less noise than the older models. Any chance the people reporting high noise levels have defective units?


----------



## PeterJ101

I apologize if this has been answered already. I am hooking up a 5040 to a receiver that has only 1 hdmi 2.0 input. I want to hook up both a Xbox one S and PS4 Pro. Anyone recommened a good switcher? Also do I hook the projector into the receiver and then the receiver into the switcher or the other way around...confused! Do you think this will cause lag? Very confused. 

Thanks!


----------



## siuengr

seplant said:


> Interesting that Epson specs the 6040 fan noise at 20 – 31 dB. The 6030 is rated at 22 dB – 32 dB, and the 6010 (which I would be coming from) was also rated at 22 dB – 32 dB, so the 6040 SHOULD produce less noise than the older models. Any chance the people reporting high noise levels have defective units?


I don't have the equipment to measure it accurately, or how far away you are supposed to measure it. I just checked it with Sound Meter on my phone from about 5 ft away. The noise floor was dead silent and measured 28-30db. In Eco mode it measured 37db, and in High measured 40db. I don't know if it's load, I really don't have a reference. I just thought Eco would be near silent, and it's definitely not.


----------



## WynsWrld98

YouTube with HDR support, will be curious when someone can get this working with the 5040/6040 and report results: http://www.highdefdigest.com/news/s...r-video-streaming-and-uploading-support/36432


----------



## ac388

MaximTre said:


> Incorrect too.
> No 6040 in europe (it really is a 5040 with an additional lamp and something else, maybe addittional warranty? European standard warranty is 2 years).
> 8300 is a non existant model in Europe, I think it's an Australian model only. It looks like Australia as no 4040/7300.
> It's all very confusing for no reason.
> 
> Looking at epson websites around the world I'd say:
> 
> 6040 US = 9300 AU
> 5040 US = 9300 EU = 8300 AU
> 4040 US = 7300 EU
> 
> http://www.epson.co.uk/products/projectors [EUROPE]
> http://www.epson.com.au/products/home-theatre-projectors/?grouptypeID=32 [AUSTRALIA]


5040 US = TW8300,which is what I have in Hong Kong now n same for Japan.


----------



## rogermoore123

MaximTre said:


> Incorrect too.
> No 6040 in europe (it really is a 5040 with an additional lamp and something else, maybe addittional warranty? European standard warranty is 2 years).
> 8300 is a non existant model in Europe, I think it's an Australian model only. It looks like Australia as no 4040/7300.
> It's all very confusing for no reason.
> 
> Looking at epson websites around the world I'd say:
> 
> 6040 US = 9300 AU
> 5040 US = 9300 EU = 8300 AU
> 4040 US = 7300 EU
> 
> http://www.epson.co.uk/products/projectors [EUROPE]
> http://www.epson.com.au/products/home-theatre-projectors/?grouptypeID=32 [AUSTRALIA]


The 9300 in eu is black and isf certified with full lamp warranty - it has to be the 6040.


----------



## MaximTre

rogermoore123 said:


> The 9300 in eu is black and isf certified with full lamp warranty - it has to be the 6040.


No, it's not.
6040 has an extra lamp and other things.
There's no 6040 in europe, I live in europe, why insist?

http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review.htm

The Pro Cinema 6040UB and 4040 are sold by CEDIA dealers, custom installers and specialty home theater retailers. The Home Cinema 5040UB and 5040UBe are sold in open distribution and are available through Internet resellers.

The Pro 6040UB and 4040 models come with a ceiling mount, an extra replacement lamp, a cable cover, and a third year of warranty included in the price. The Home Cinema 5040UB and 5040UBe come with a two year warranty; replacement lamps, ceiling mounts and cable covers are not included.

The Pro models are black, the Home models are white.

There is no performance difference between the 6040UB and the 5040UB.


----------



## dataJunkie

*Advice needed*

Hi All.

Firstly, please excuse my amateurish setup .. I'm making do with what I have 

Can I ask your advice on this .. I have a 6040UB (Yet to be ceiling mounted) projecting onto my wall as shown, but I have a query with regards to the left hand margin.

If you look, there is a noticable slant inward from top to bottom on the picture. Any ideas what could be causing this? Is this a lens issue and I need to return the unit? If you look at the right hand side, the margin is basically parallel with my wall, so this leads me to think it is an internal issue with the unit itself. Is there somewhere I could reset the unit to factory settings to see if it will help at all?

I've updated the firmware and done an unplug etc ..

I've had a BenQ1070 before this, and never had this issue. both sides seemed symmetrical (so that rules out my walls being off centre etc .. as I initially suspected.

Any suggestions would be welcome .. thanks,

n


----------



## kriktsemaj99

dataJunkie said:


> ...Can I ask your advice on this .. I have a 6040UB (Yet to be ceiling mounted) projecting onto my wall as shown, but I have a query with regards to the left hand margin....



That's just a classic case of the projector not pointing straight at (i.e. perpendicular to) the screen. You have to tilt it to square up the picture. That will result in the picture not aligning with the screen, but you then you use the lens shift controls to centre it.

To convince youself of this, just make a very large change in pointing angle (e.g. try pointing up so the picture is well above the screen), then bring it back down with the lens shift. You'll see that the picture shape has changed. Now repeat using up/down and left/right pointing angle changes until you get it perfectly square and aligned.


----------



## dataJunkie

kriktsemaj99 said:


> That's just a classic case of the projector not pointing straight at the screen. You have to tilt it to square up the picture. That will result in the picture not aligning with the screen, but you then you use the lens shift controls to centre it.
> 
> To convince youself of this, just make a very large change in pointing angle (e.g. try pointing up so the picture is well above the screen), then bring it back down with the lens shift. You'll see that the picture shape has changed. Now repeat using up/down and left/right pointing angle changes until you get it perfectly square and aligned.


Excellent .. .thanks for this ...

Will try this when I get home ..

Cheers!


----------



## dvdwilly3

dataJunkie said:


> Hi All.
> 
> Firstly, please excuse my amateurish setup .. I'm making do with what I have
> 
> Can I ask your advice on this .. I have a 6040UB (Yet to be ceiling mounted) projecting onto my wall as shown, but I have a query with regards to the left hand margin.
> 
> If you look, there is a noticable slant inward from top to bottom on the picture. Any ideas what could be causing this? Is this a lens issue and I need to return the unit? If you look at the right hand side, the margin is basically parallel with my wall, so this leads me to think it is an internal issue with the unit itself. Is there somewhere I could reset the unit to factory settings to see if it will help at all?
> 
> I've updated the firmware and done an unplug etc ..
> 
> I've had a BenQ1070 before this, and never had this issue. both sides seemed symmetrical (so that rules out my walls being off centre etc .. as I initially suspected.
> 
> Any suggestions would be welcome .. thanks,
> 
> n


Check your projector mounting. The projector needs to be perpendicular to the front wall.

You need to be concerned with roll (left side higher than right side or vice versa--it looks like it is level...). The next concern is pitch--angled up or down...which leads to keystoning--the picture will be pinched from both sides at the top or bottom, which does not look like what is going on. 

The last is yaw. Here it is whether the right side is closer than the left side or vice versa. It looks like the yaw might be off. If you can loosen your mount, see if you can move the projector body slightly to bring the left side closer to the screen and see what happens to your image.


----------



## dataJunkie

dvdwilly3 said:


> Check your projector mounting. The projector needs to be perpendicular to the front wall.
> 
> You need to be concerned with roll (left side higher than right side or vice versa--it looks like it is level...). The next concern is pitch--angled up or down...which leads to keystoning--the picture will be pinched from both sides at the top or bottom, which does not look like what is going on.
> 
> The last is yaw. Here it is whether the right side is closer than the left side or vice versa. It looks like the yaw might be off. If you can loosen your mount, see if you can move the projector body slightly to bring the left side closer to the screen and see what happens to your image.


Thanks for the info. Will check these settings later on .

Many thanks,

n


----------



## galewarrior

Hey guys, first post. 
I've been lurking here since before the 5040ub was released. Lots of good info.
Planning to take the plunge on this machine, but I'm hesitant with the 10 GBPS bandwidth limitation. Seems like a major oversight in design with all the new tech coming our way in video.

I do plan to play PC games quite regularly. Are there any issues with 1080P 4:4:4 at 60HZ? I would use the eShift from here.
From what I understand even if this machine supported 4K 4:4:4 at 60hz, there would be the issue that it is indeed not native 4K- resulting in blurry text.
1440P would be a nice feature. I know this isn't a PC monitor and some compromises must be made...

I wouldn't even be considering the "other" projector, but from what I can tell it does support a full 18GBPS, 4:4:4. I'm aware the 5040ub has a quicker response time and crisper picture. Are those of us with PC's going to miss out without full 18 GBPS support going forward?

Planning to use with a 158" 2.35:1 Silver Ticket AT 1.1 screen. Room has moderate light control. I'm hoping this beast will have the light output and sharpness to cover this space without an anamorphic lens. I know zooming in will decrease pixel density and brightness.

Anyway, thanks to those who have been posting. What is a wealth of info on this forum! I hope to be joining you soon,


----------



## ndabunka

firefox20000 said:


> What´s about the Frame Interpolation? Which is better (HW50 or 5040/6040)?


No difference to me but do be informed that option is not available in 4K mode but since the HW50ES had no 4K there is ...no difference there either


----------



## ndabunka

galewarrior said:


> Hey guys, first post.
> I've been lurking here since before the 5040ub was released. Lots of good info.
> Planning to take the plunge on this machine, but I'm hesitant with the 10 GBPS bandwidth limitation. Seems like a major oversight in design with all the new tech coming our way in video.
> 
> I do plan to play PC games quite regularly. Are there any issues with 1080P 4:4:4 at 60HZ? I would use the eShift from here.
> From what I understand even if this machine supported 4K 4:4:4 at 60hz, there would be the issue that it is indeed not native 4K- resulting in blurry text.
> 1440P would be a nice feature. I know this isn't a PC monitor and some compromises must be made...
> 
> I wouldn't even be considering the "other" projector, but from what I can tell it does support a full 18GBPS, 4:4:4. I'm aware the 5040ub has a quicker response time and crisper picture. Are those of us with PC's going to miss out without full 18 GBPS support going forward?
> 
> Planning to use with a 158" 2.35:1 Silver Ticket AT 1.1 screen. Room has moderate light control. I'm hoping this beast will have the light output and sharpness to cover this space without an anamorphic lens. I know zooming in will decrease pixel density and brightness.
> 
> Anyway, thanks to those who have been posting. What is a wealth of info on this forum! I hope to be joining you soon,


Unfortunately, the 5040/6040 are your ONLY "real" option for gaming and yes, that may well reduce the range of frequencies that are available with it. The JVCs can accomodate the higher 60Hz with 4:4:4 but the lag simply makes them unviable as a gaming projector.


----------



## Mike Garrett

gnolivos said:


> Wow. That's horsesh*t from Epson. My 8 yr old projector stretches in any way imaginable over HDMI. Crap. I really needed this.


Do you have an anamorphic lens? That is what the vertical stretch is used for, nothing else.


----------



## Mike Garrett

Morames said:


> So are you saying if I bought 5040ub with a 2.35:1 screen which would give me 120" 16:9 I couldn't just hit a button and have it switch between the two? Or is it that the 6040ub automatically detects the aspect ration and switches for you? I'd like to save $1000 and spend it elsewhere if I can.


When you have a 2.35 screen, you use lens memory to set it up. Keep in mind the projector always throws a 16:9 image. All you are doing to get the image to fill the screen is literally zooming the black bars above and below the screen. The projector is still (like always) throwing a 16:9 image. Zoom method works well, but you do have to watch for a few things such as:

1. If you have light colored walls, you could see the projected black bars on the wall.
2. If you have your screen close (image less than one black bar width) to the ceiling and your ceiling is white or some other light color, you will see the black bar, when zoomed for 2.35. 
3. Zoom method is not perfect. So periodically you may need to do a slight adjustment and or re-save the adjustment.
4. Changing aspect ratio movies. When watching one of those, the 16:9 image will hit above and below your screen.

To set this up, you use the zoom, lens shift to size and position the 2.35 image and save into memory. You do the same with the 16:9 image and save. Then when you want to switch back and forth, you select the memory setting that you want with the remote. It is not automatic. It is also not automatic with the 6040 either.


----------



## chiltonj

Somewhat related, I just got a note that Google chromecast ultra is released in limited quantities. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## chiltonj

6040 vs 6030 size comparison. More pics to come. 










Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## pnw

chiltonj said:


> 6040 vs 6030 size comparison. More pics to come.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Are there any vents in the sides, or are they all front and back?


----------



## chiltonj

pnw said:


> Are there any vents in the sides, or are they all front and back?


Front only. 










Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

I may have missed the discussion about the Samsung UBDK8500(with new firmware). Is it working properly with the Epson now n can send out the same level of 4K HDR signal as Philips n Panasonic ? Thanks in advance.
*
*


----------



## aaranddeeman

ac388 said:


> I may have missed the discussion about the Samsung UBDK8500(with new firmware). Is it working properly with the Epson now n can send out the same level of 4K HDR signal as Philips n Panasonic ? Thanks in advance.
> *
> *


I would like to know as well. 
If it has resolved all it's quirks, it will be one of the contenders for best bang for buck.


----------



## k3nnis

Does the Samsung do Netflix 4K HDR?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

chiltonj said:


> Front only.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Thanks for those pictures.
Is all the needed hardware included for mounting the PJ? Or do we have to make a run for some items to the store?


----------



## Jackattack51

galewarrior said:


> Hey guys, first post.
> I've been lurking here since before the 5040ub was released. Lots of good info.
> Planning to take the plunge on this machine, but I'm hesitant with the 10 GBPS bandwidth limitation. Seems like a major oversight in design with all the new tech coming our way in video.
> 
> I do plan to play PC games quite regularly. Are there any issues with 1080P 4:4:4 at 60HZ? I would use the eShift from here.
> From what I understand even if this machine supported 4K 4:4:4 at 60hz, there would be the issue that it is indeed not native 4K- resulting in blurry text.
> 1440P would be a nice feature. I know this isn't a PC monitor and some compromises must be made...
> 
> I wouldn't even be considering the "other" projector, but from what I can tell it does support a full 18GBPS, 4:4:4. I'm aware the 5040ub has a quicker response time and crisper picture. Are those of us with PC's going to miss out without full 18 GBPS support going forward?
> 
> Planning to use with a 158" 2.35:1 Silver Ticket AT 1.1 screen. Room has moderate light control. I'm hoping this beast will have the light output and sharpness to cover this space without an anamorphic lens. I know zooming in will decrease pixel density and brightness.
> 
> Anyway, thanks to those who have been posting. What is a wealth of info on this forum! I hope to be joining you soon,


Anything at 1080p is way under the bandwidth cap of the Epson's chipset. 4:4:4 12bit is only ~6gbps. You are right though that the PC has the most to lose, but also the most flexibility in what settings you output. 4K/60hz/4:2:0/8b is available on this projector and a lot more if you cap your output at 30hz (but I don't think that's a real option). It's definitely not a perfect situation. 

As for lag, the epson is right under 30ms while the "other" project sits around 130ms. 30 is great, and while 130 is "playable", it's 100% noticeable that you are slightly behind the action. Some people find it acceptable but I think most would agree it's a bit too much.


----------



## chiltonj

aaranddeeman said:


> Thanks for those pictures.
> Is all the needed hardware included for mounting the PJ? Or do we have to make a run for some items to the store?


Mounting hardware included with 6040. Not sure about 5040 though. It's a chief mount. I'll get model number tomorrow. It's a little easier to use than the chief mount for my 5030.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

aaranddeeman said:


> I would like to know as well.
> 
> If it has resolved all it's quirks, it will be one of the contenders for best bang for buck.



Add me to the list of folks looking to know if the issues with the Samsung K8500 4K player have been resolved.

As of now, the Panasonic does not support 4K on YouTube and it doesn't have a VUDU app either.

Combine that with the fact that the Panasonic is $700 and the Samsung is only $250 and a good case can be made for the Samsung.


----------



## ac388

Kelvin1000 said:


> Add me to the list of folks looking to know if the issues with the Samsung K8500 4K player have been resolved.
> 
> As of now, the Panasonic does not support 4K on YouTube and it doesn't have a VUDU app either.
> 
> Combine that with the fact that the Panasonic is $700 and the Samsung is only $250 and a good case can be made for the Samsung.


You just read my mind ! Thinking to pick up one in London when I will be there end of this year. Believe it or not, no UHD Bluray player available in HK at least till March 2017.


----------



## MaximTre

I have a tw9300w and the samsung player.
The samsung player works fine after the latest update (4k + hdr using BD UHD), on both wired and wireless connection.
Prior the update, hdr worked only using wireless connection, now it's both.
Netflix app is 4k but no hdr (at least here, Italy, I don't know for other countries). It's not an epson problem, its the app itself (24hz output, but no hdr, even on latest TVs).


----------



## k3nnis

Do you need to use wireless on Epson to get HDR 4K Netflix in future?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chiltonj

chiltonj said:


> Mounting hardware included with 6040. Not sure about 5040 though. It's a chief mount. I'll get model number tomorrow. It's a little easier to use than the chief mount for my 5030.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk












Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Kelvin1000 said:


> Add me to the list of folks looking to know if the issues with the Samsung K8500 4K player have been resolved.
> 
> As of now, the Panasonic does not support 4K on YouTube and it doesn't have a VUDU app either.
> 
> Combine that with the fact that the Panasonic is $700 and the Samsung is only $250 and a good case can be made for the Samsung.



And the Philips is only $229 at Best Buy right now, too.


----------



## aaranddeeman

MaximTre said:


> I have a tw9300w and the samsung player.
> The samsung player works fine after the latest update (4k + hdr using BD UHD), on both wired and wireless connection.
> Prior the update, hdr worked only using wireless connection, now it's both.
> Netflix app is 4k but no hdr (at least here, Italy, I don't know for other countries). It's not an epson problem, its the app itself (24hz output, but no hdr, even on latest TVs).


There was also the red push issue on Samsung. I am not sure if that is resolved as well. (but this is OT. we can take it to the player thread)


----------



## dvdwilly3

For any one looking for a place to start with settings on the 5040/6040 projectors, I have started a thread, *5040/6040 Memory Profiles*, within this forum.

As good as the PQ is, it can benefit from settings that are specific to the application in use. For instance, settings that work best for TV do not work as well for UHD and vice versa.

I have posted the settings that I used on each piece of equipment in the chain, what the incoming signal is on the Epsonr, and the settings that I used on the Epson itself.

I also posted a number of representative screen shots so that you get an idea of what to expect. The posted screen shots do not look as good as the projector image itself so it can only go up from there.

I started with the settings that we use watching TV thru our TiVo. You should be able to use similar settings for whichever set top box you are using for changing channels.

It at least gives you a place to start and tweak from there. I will be adding the settings that I use for UHD, bluray, and 3D.

Hopefully, others will use that thread as a place to post their respective settings and examples of their respective results so that people do not have to try search to find the settings that are scattered throughout this thread.


----------



## chiltonj

4k enhancement is grayed out playing 4k uhd discs 24p or DirectTV. FI is also grayed out. Info says 4k resolution. Any ideas? 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

chiltonj said:


> 4k enhancement is grayed out playing 4k uhd discs 24p or DirectTV. FI is also grayed out. Info says 4k resolution. Any ideas?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Let me guess.
When the source is already 4K, it is greyed out to avoid clicking it off by accident.
The two states (on and off) are only possible for non-4K source.
But then again, this is my theory, let the actual users chime in.


----------



## chiltonj

aaranddeeman said:


> Let me guess.
> When the source is already 4K, it is greyed out to avoid clicking it off by accident.
> The two states (on and off) are only possible for non-4K source.
> But then again, this is my theory, let the actual users chime in.


Thanks, I was thinking the same and I'm processing 4k from the receiver on DirectTV so I'll try turning that off and see what happens. If only my kids would fall asleep so I can go back to playing  

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

MaximTre said:


> I have a tw9300w and the samsung player.
> The samsung player works fine after the latest update (4k + hdr using BD UHD), on both wired and wireless connection.
> Prior the update, hdr worked only using wireless connection, now it's both.
> Netflix app is 4k but no hdr (at least here, Italy, I don't know for other countries). It's not an epson problem, its the app itself (24hz output, but no hdr, even on latest TVs).


Wonder what is the max. resolution when you put a UHD disc ? 4K/4:2:2 10 bit BT2020 ??? 

Tks.


----------



## exm

chiltonj said:


> 4k enhancement is grayed out playing 4k uhd discs 24p or DirectTV. FI is also grayed out. Info says 4k resolution. Any ideas?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I have the same issue with my AV8802A


----------



## aaranddeeman

exm said:


> I have the same issue with my AV8802A


I don't think it's an "issue". It's WAD (Works As Designed).


----------



## Ronman79

dvdwilly3 said:


> For any one looking for a place to start with settings on the 5040/6040 projectors, I have started a thread, 5040/6040 Memory Profiles, within this forum.
> 
> As good as the PQ is, it can benefit from settings that are specific to the application in use. For instance, settings that work best for TV do not work as well for UHD and vice versa.
> 
> I have posted the settings that I used on each piece of equipment in the chain, what the incoming signal is on the Epsonr, and the settings that I used on the Epson itself.
> 
> I also posted a number of representative screen shots so that you get an idea of what to expect. The posted screen shots do not look as good as the projector image itself so it can only go up from there.
> 
> I started with the settings that we use watching TV thru our TiVo. You should be able to use similar settings for whichever set top box you are using for changing channels.
> 
> It at least gives you a place to start and tweak from there. I will be adding the settings that I use for UHD, bluray, and 3D.
> 
> Hopefully, others will use that thread as a place to post their respective settings and examples of their respective results so that people do not have to try search to find the settings that are scattered throughout this thread.


 @dvdwilly3, good work! This should be really helpful. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

Anyone have a contact with Epson to ask why FI is disabled with 4K content? It is available with the JVC RS400, curious why it isn't on the 5040/6040. No flame wars about FI please, it's understood it isn't for everyone but I like it.


----------



## exm

aaranddeeman said:


> I don't think it's an "issue". It's WAD (Works As Designed).


If I set my AV8802 to not use the scaler at all (bypass), or force it into 1080P I still can't use the 6040 4k enhancement.


----------



## Ronman79

exm said:


> If I set my AV8802 to not use the scaler at all (bypass), or force it into 1080P I still can't use the 6040 4k enhancement.


Are you using HDMI input #1 on the Epson. That might be it.


----------



## chiltonj

Ronman79 said:


> Are you using HDMI input #1 on the Epson. That might be it.


A change in my receiver setting from processing 4k to direct for direcTV and the 4k enhancement lit up. Thks. 

Should I be using my Yamaha rx-a3060 receiver or the Epson to upscale to 4k? Don't think I should need to do both. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## exm

Ronman79 said:


> Are you using HDMI input #1 on the Epson. That might be it.


Yes, but as can see with chiltonj's reply above, when I set my receiver to bypass it should do just that. So my guess is that the "issue" is with the Marantz


----------



## mase1981

I have been talking to Epson about the xBox one S and the lack of HDR. Thought i'd just share their response: 
Dear ****,
Our engineers have advised us that the XBox One S does not output a HDR signal that is compatible with the Epson projector HDR Modes. The XBox outputs 4K / 24Hz, 10-bit with a 4:4:4 pixel encoding.
4K @ 24 Hz
Resolution: 3840 x 2160p
Refresh rate: 24 Hz
Color depth: 30 bits per pixel (10-bit)
Pixel encoding: 4:4:4

This is a "No" in our Projector HDR compatibility table, meaning you will only get SDR / Rec.709.
This matter has already been reported to our Home Theater Product Marketing Team. They are aware of this limitation, but we do not have any type of "fix" or solution for you at this time. Please refer to the following Epson Projector HDR compatibility table:



Currently we only know of several Blu Ray players that will automatically recognize 4K / BT.2020 / HDR image settings:
We hope you understand our position on this matter.

Very Best Regards,
Tony C
Epson


----------



## Morames

Hey all. I know this is an owners thread, but I'm trying to justify a $1000-$2000 budget increase for one of these projectors over a Sony HW45ES. I had a pro installer tell me he had a chance, along with several other experienced professionals, to do a side beside with a 6040ub and a $20,000 Sony and they all preferred the 6040ub. 

Is it worthwhile for a non-handy projector novice to spend a bit extra for a pro to set up the whole system, hiding wires, calibration etc? Or is it ok to go on the cheap side and try to set up the projector myself? I confess I'm a little nervous about mounting it in the right spot and not having it fall on our heads mid movie. 

Would any of you say you have buyers remorse? My original plan was to get the Sony now, wait a few years and see where we Are at with projector technology. I'm intrigued by 4K, but like Dolby Atmos, it's like buying a hydrogen fueled car with only one refueling station 15 miles away. 

Thoughts? Again, sorry if this is the wrong thread.


----------



## WynsWrld98

mase1981 said:


> I have been talking to Epson about the xBox one S and the lack of HDR. Thought i'd just share their response:
> Dear ****,
> Our engineers have advised us that the XBox One S does not output a HDR signal that is compatible with the Epson projector HDR Modes. The XBox outputs 4K / 24Hz, 10-bit with a 4:4:4 pixel encoding.
> 4K @ 24 Hz
> Resolution: 3840 x 2160p
> Refresh rate: 24 Hz
> Color depth: 30 bits per pixel (10-bit)
> Pixel encoding: 4:4:4
> 
> This is a "No" in our Projector HDR compatibility table, meaning you will only get SDR / Rec.709.
> This matter has already been reported to our Home Theater Product Marketing Team. They are aware of this limitation, but we do not have any type of "fix" or solution for you at this time. Please refer to the following Epson Projector HDR compatibility table:
> 
> 
> 
> Currently we only know of several Blu Ray players that will automatically recognize 4K / BT.2020 / HDR image settings:
> We hope you understand our position on this matter.
> 
> Very Best Regards,
> Tony C
> Epson


Do you mind asking your Epson contact this question I posted above? Thanks

Anyone have a contact with Epson to ask why FI is disabled with 4K content? It is available with the JVC RS400, curious why it isn't on the 5040/6040. No flame wars about FI please, it's understood it isn't for everyone but I like it.


----------



## mase1981

WynsWrld98 said:


> Do you mind asking your Epson contact this question I posted above? Thanks
> 
> Anyone have a contact with Epson to ask why FI is disabled with 4K content? It is available with the JVC RS400, curious why it isn't on the 5040/6040. No flame wars about FI please, it's understood it isn't for everyone but I like it.


I don't have a "Contact", i just emailed their support Easily doable from the Epson site.


----------



## firefox20000

WynsWrld98 said:


> Do you mind asking your Epson contact this question I posted above? Thanks
> 
> Anyone have a contact with Epson to ask why FI is disabled with 4K content? It is available with the JVC RS400, curious why it isn't on the 5040/6040. No flame wars about FI please, it's understood it isn't for everyone but I like it.



There is no FI when input 4K content!


----------



## Dave Harper

Morames said:


> .......I had a pro installer tell me he had a chance, along with several other experienced professionals, to do a side beside with a 6040ub and a $20,000 Sony and they all preferred the 6040ub.......



That statement right there is utter and total BS. They are clueless as to what constitutes a good image on the screen if they said that. 

I have a 5040UBe and a $10K retail Sony VPL-VW350ES (which doesn't have HDR capabilities, but offers a wider than rec709 color gamut) here and the 350es is clearly the better machine upon direct side by side testing, as it should be. I've seen the higher end/cost Sonys and they're even better. The only thing I saw better with the Epsons were the higher lumens output gave it more of a pop when watching regular TV and sports. 

With that said, the 5040/6040 are indeed amazing projectors in their price range and well worth the cost of admission. If my budget were in the $3-4K range, these would be high on my list, if not on top.


----------



## WynsWrld98

firefox20000 said:


> There is no FI when input 4K content!


I know and I'm asking WHY it isn't available on the 5040/6040 because it is available on the JVC RS400 with 4K feeds and that projector is a lot older than the 5040/6040.


----------



## Morames

Thank you Dave


----------



## Valleyboy

dvdwilly3 said:


> For any one looking for a place to start with settings on the 5040/6040 projectors, I have started a thread, 5040/6040 Memory Profiles, within this forum.
> 
> As good as the PQ is, it can benefit from settings that are specific to the application in use. For instance, settings that work best for TV do not work as well for UHD and vice versa.
> 
> I have posted the settings that I used on each piece of equipment in the chain, what the incoming signal is on the Epsonr, and the settings that I used on the Epson itself.
> 
> I also posted a number of representative screen shots so that you get an idea of what to expect. The posted screen shots do not look as good as the projector image itself so it can only go up from there.
> 
> I started with the settings that we use watching TV thru our TiVo. You should be able to use similar settings for whichever set top box you are using for changing channels.
> 
> It at least gives you a place to start and tweak from there. I will be adding the settings that I use for UHD, bluray, and 3D.
> 
> Hopefully, others will use that thread as a place to post their respective settings and examples of their respective results so that people do not have to try search to find the settings that are scattered throughout this thread.


How does one get to this thread, I can't seem to figure that out?


----------



## chiltonj

Valleyboy said:


> How does one get to this thread, I can't seem to figure that out?


Click on Willys name, then posts.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ashma

Valleyboy said:


> How does one get to this thread, I can't seem to figure that out?


Just use this "5040/6040 Memory Profiles" in the search bar.
It's the first link that comes up


----------



## Valleyboy

Thanks, found it!


----------



## galewarrior

WynsWrld98 said:


> Do you mind asking your Epson contact this question I posted above? Thanks
> 
> Anyone have a contact with Epson to ask why FI is disabled with 4K content? It is available with the JVC RS400, curious why it isn't on the 5040/6040. No flame wars about FI please, it's understood it isn't for everyone but I like it.


Yeah I'm also bummed about the XBox HDR incompatibility. According to the table 4K/24fps 10 bit 4:4:4 breaks the 10 gig cap at 11.9 gigs of bandwidth. To bad, I really wanted to use the xbox for everything, especially once atoms is supported (if ever).

Complaining doesn't help though. I just gotta bite the bullet on this one. Looks like a better trade off than the higher cost and input lag of the JVC.


----------



## c.kingsley

WynsWrld98 said:


> I know and I'm asking WHY it isn't available on the 5040/6040 because it is available on the JVC RS400 with 4K feeds and that projector is a lot older than the 5040/6040.


I don't have any facts, but the likely answer is that it has something to do with staying under that $2999 price point. A motion interpolation circuit that supports 4k would add to the cost, like an 18gbps HDMI chip. They obviously made some calculated design decisions to release this projector, with all its capabilities, at the price point they did. Now, why the JVC has a full 18gpbs chip, FI on 4k, etc. and can't manage a reasonable input lag is a whole different issue entirely and it cost them at least one customer (me). I'm quite happy with the performance of the Epson. In 2-5 years, there will be something even better but for the intervening period, this is an amazing projector.


----------



## c.kingsley

Mike Garrett said:


> 4. Changing aspect ratio movies. When watching one of those, the 16:9 image will hit above and below your screen.


You would use blanking on the 5040 to resolve this issue. 

Initially I was all set on going CIH but after some time spent with the projector (my first), I decided to stay 16:9. I've watched The Dark Knight Rises, Interstellar, etc. and I find the changing aspect ratio to be kind of immersive. I wouldn't want to defeat it even though I could. If I did have a CIH setup, I would want removable masking for changing aspect films. I know it isn't a purist's take. I'm running 16:9 at 120" diagonal now. My 5040 is literally 1" from the back wall to make that happen though. The only way I would consider CIH is if I could frame out a projection room behind the main seating wall which would enable me to reach 2.35 much wider than I am now while keeping 16:9 roughly 120". I was worried the screen would be too big but, if anything, I already think it is too small!  

I have about 6' of empty attic behind the seating area. I won't be changing the setup for this projector, but some future setup may involve moving the projector into its own dedicated space. I see now that projection at home is a money pit and I'm sure I'll fall deeper into it as time goes on. I could never go back to a television for film.


----------



## Savatage316

So anyone pick up a ps4 pro today and able to turn on hdr mode for it? When I try to go into uncharted for instance, it says it supports 4k hdr but will be displayed in 2k hdr because of my TVs settings. 

Would this be adjusted in my projector or within the ps4? In ps4 im switching some options but not able to find where to get this changed. 

Anyone have any ideas?

Edit : when uncharted asked me if I want hdr on I selected yes and everything turned pink.


----------



## PhoenixCoyote

Savatage316 said:


> So anyone pick up a ps4 pro today and able to turn on hdr mode for it? When I try to go into uncharted for instance, it says it supports 4k hdr but will be displayed in 2k hdr because of my TVs settings.


I also picked up a PS4 Pro today and found that HDR is limited to 2K with my 5040ub. I'm pretty sure it's due to the 10 Ggbs bandwidth limitation of the 5040's chipset. Go to page 1 of this thread and scroll down for an explanation. There's also a chart which shows what the 5040 will and won't handle. PS4 Pro requires 10 bits for 4K HDR support. Bandwidth for 4K60 10-bits is 11.1 Gbps, beyond the 10 Gbps limit of the 5040. If you want to play games with HDR enabled, you'll have to set the PS4 Pro resolution to 1080p.


----------



## sddp

*Curved Screen good idea with 3D movies?*

So I just purchased the 5040UBE and haven't bought a screen yet.
I am set on a 135" and considering a curved. Will a curved work well with 3D content? 
And if there projector is about 2 feet to the left of the screen and 16' back from the ceiling, will that be weird whilst using lens shift?


----------



## Savatage316

Also what is the current firmware number and can it be updated simply thru the projector itself while connected to WiFi?


----------



## kpump

PhoenixCoyote said:


> I also picked up a PS4 Pro today and found that HDR is limited to 2K with my 5040ub. I'm pretty sure it's due to the 10 Ggbs bandwidth limitation of the 5040's chipset. Go to page 1 of this thread and scroll down for an explanation. There's also a chart which shows what the 5040 will and won't handle. PS4 Pro requires 10 bits for 4K HDR support. Bandwidth for 4K60 10-bits is 11.1 Gbps, beyond the 10 Gbps limit of the 5040. If you want to play games with HDR enabled, you'll have to set the PS4 Pro resolution to 1080p.


Yup, same here hdr 1080p only. Kinda of a bummer that this projector is advertised hdr but only works with extreamly limited hdr support. No shield tv, Xbox one, or full PS4 support. Wonder if they knew that?


----------



## Savatage316

PhoenixCoyote said:


> I also picked up a PS4 Pro today and found that HDR is limited to 2K with my 5040ub. I'm pretty sure it's due to the 10 Ggbs bandwidth limitation of the 5040's chipset. Go to page 1 of this thread and scroll down for an explanation. There's also a chart which shows what the 5040 will and won't handle. PS4 Pro requires 10 bits for 4K HDR support. Bandwidth for 4K60 10-bits is 11.1 Gbps, beyond the 10 Gbps limit of the 5040. If you want to play games with HDR enabled, you'll have to set the PS4 Pro resolution to 1080p.


Would the 4k enhancements make up for the drop in resolution? So with 4k enhancements and 1080p setting lets say, which would allow full hdr... Would that be viable? 

I mean here's my main question, is hdr that much of a game changer or is it something that most people can live without? I haven't seen it actually, but I been running plenty of games with my 1080 gpu and my consoles, with this projector and its nothing short of amazing. Is HDR something a person can live without or is it really a total massive downfall for this projector?


----------



## EveryGlenn17

So is there any hope of updates improving the hdr situation? I also purchased a ps4 pro, and I haven't been able to get hdr working for streaming Netflix, Amazon, or YouTube even at 1080p. I'll try a game tomorrow. 

I'm incredibly happy with the pj so far, but it's hdr limitations are disappointing. If anything I'm regretting the ps4 pro purchase at this point. I do have a lower end 4k/hdr TV that may make better use of it I suppose, but 4k/hdr gaming on my 100" screen would be epic. Here's hoping to better compatability in the future.


----------



## Savatage316

EveryGlenn17 said:


> So is there any hope of updates improving the hdr situation? I also purchased a ps4 pro, and I haven't been able to get hdr working for streaming Netflix, Amazon, or YouTube even at 1080p. I'll try a game tomorrow.
> 
> I'm incredibly happy with the pj so far, but it's hdr limitations are disappointing. If anything I'm regretting the ps4 pro purchase at this point. I do have a lower end 4k/hdr TV that may make better use of it I suppose, but 4k/hdr gaming on my 100" screen would be epic. Here's hoping to better compatability in the future.


The pro in itself is a nice console tho, it greatly helps frames out and with the new controllers, everything just feels so much better. Battlefield for instance feels incredibly smooth and overall better than it did so just saying, I think the pro in itself is a great snag. 

And same, I absolutely adore this pj... It's so good in fact at times I can't believe what I'm seeing at such amazing screen sizes, it's a badass, incredible projector. It just has fallen short on the hdr aspect and its a bummer, I just want to see it in action.. But doesn't sound like any type of update can help it


----------



## k3nnis

So HDR doesn't work with the Epson and ps4pro?? How about 1080P HDR? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

k3nnis said:


> So HDR doesn't work with the Epson and ps4pro?? How about 1080P HDR?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yea from what I gather, you'll get full hdr with 1080p. Which I'm gonna try because that might work out really well by utilizing the 4k enhancements along with it.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

really sad to hear about the HDR limitation on ps4pro & xbox


----------



## k3nnis

Savatage316 said:


> Yea from what I gather, you'll get full hdr with 1080p. Which I'm gonna try because that might work out really well by utilizing the 4k enhancements along with it.




Thanks let us know how you go. And what frame rates.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rowan_u

Savatage316 said:


> Yea from what I gather, you'll get full hdr with 1080p. Which I'm gonna try because that might work out really well by utilizing the 4k enhancements along with it.


I am also interested on whether or not 1080p HDR gaming is possible on this projector with PS4 pro. Thanks!


----------



## MaximTre

rowan_u said:


> I am also interested on whether or not 1080p HDR gaming is possible on this projector with PS4 pro. Thanks!


Yes, don't worry.
Leave the Pro on auto, it will automatically switch to 1080p/60hz/12bit/4:4:4 for hdr gaming,
SDR gaming is 2160p/60hz/8bit/4:2:0.

On a full band hdmi it's 2160p/60hz/12bit/4:2:2 for hdr and 2160p/60hz/8bit/4:4:4 for sdr.

There's banding with the 12bit setting (even with a samsung ks8000), so something is wrong on the ps4 deep color setting, or the ps4 renders games at 8bit (it may be what's happening, if so deep color is pointless)


----------



## Savatage316

MaximTre said:


> Yes, don't worry.
> Leave the Pro on auto, it will automatically switch to 1080p/60hz/12bit/4:4:4 for hdr gaming,
> SDR gaming is 2160p/60hz/8bit/4:2:0.
> 
> On a full band hdmi it's 2160p/60hz/12bit/4:2:2 for hdr and 2160p/60hz/8bit/4:4:4 for sdr.
> 
> There's banding with the 12bit setting (even with a samsung ks8000), so something is wrong on the ps4 deep color setting, or the ps4 renders games at 8bit (it may be what's happening, if so deep color is pointless)


Ah ok so it'll just work that with automatic? So it's the ps4s issue that it's not pushing full hdr?


----------



## MaximTre

Savatage316 said:


> Ah ok so it'll just work that with automatic? So it's the ps4s issue that it's not pushing full hdr?


Yes, auto works like that.

I tested the Pro with the epson and 2 different samsung tvs, no real 10 bit output. 
Don't know if it's a rendering limitation or a wrong output due to a broken deep color setting. 
Tbh, Xbox One S has the same limitations, so I think it's the rendering due to limited gpu power. 
I'll test Shadow Warrior 2 on pc this week end (one of the 2 hdr compatibile games on pc), will report the results.


----------



## Savatage316

The one thing I do know is this projector could make NES look like Xbox One, this thing blows me away every time I use it. What an incredible investment this piece of equipment has turned out to be . The color depth, the clarity, just everything about this projector is a sheer blast to use. When I'm playing my games now i still can't believe I have a picture this amazing at this size, just gorgeous


----------



## Savatage316

Oh one other question maxim, so with uncharted in game it has the actual hdr option to turn on. When I do that, my projector will switch over and everything is pink. I can show a screen, but what does that sound like? Have you tried that yet with uncharted if you have the game?


----------



## gnolivos

I was planning on buying a PS4 Pro today, solely as a Streaming player for VUDU, Youtube, and AmazonPrime **in 4K**. (also as a regular 1080p bluray player, no UHD)

1) Am I understanding that just as with games, I am not going to be able to obtain 4K HDR for these streaming services with the 5040?
2) How about just plain 4k streaming WITHOUT HDR? Is that possible at least?

I'm coming from a PS3, so there may be nothing to gain here from an upgrade Point Of View. Wanted to make sure. Please provide any input ! Thx


----------



## Savatage316

gnolivos said:


> I was planning on buying a PS4 Pro today, solely as a Streaming player for VUDU, Youtube, and AmazonPrime **in 4K**. (also as a regular 1080p bluray player, no UHD)
> 
> 1) Am I understanding that just as with games, I am not going to be able to obtain 4K HDR for these streaming services with the 5040?
> 2) How about just plain 4k streaming WITHOUT HDR? Is that possible at least?
> 
> I'm coming from a PS3, so there may be nothing to gain here from an upgrade Point Of View. Wanted to make sure. Please provide any input ! Thx


First thing I wanna say is quick, run, buy this projector... It's absolutely stunning. 4k is fine everywhere, hdr is the only thing that has some issues in which the other guys are better at explaining. But I can attest to the sheer quality of this projector and how good of an image that it puts out, and I haven't even scratched the surface yet. It'll blow your mind, trust me


----------



## MaximTre

Savatage316 said:


> Oh one other question maxim, so with uncharted in game it has the actual hdr option to turn on. When I do that, my projector will switch over and everything is pink. I can show a screen, but what does that sound like? Have you tried that yet with uncharted if you have the game?


Tested all the hdr games, no problem. 
Have you checked projector settings, color space, hdr1 etc (advanced tab)?
Ps4 Pro shoukd activate hdr by itself, but you can check ingame settings to be sure.


----------



## Mike Garrett

c.kingsley said:


> You would use blanking on the 5040 to resolve this issue.
> 
> Initially I was all set on going CIH but after some time spent with the projector (my first), I decided to stay 16:9. I've watched The Dark Knight Rises, Interstellar, etc. and I find the changing aspect ratio to be kind of immersive. I wouldn't want to defeat it even though I could. If I did have a CIH setup, I would want removable masking for changing aspect films. I know it isn't a purist's take. I'm running 16:9 at 120" diagonal now. My 5040 is literally 1" from the back wall to make that happen though. The only way I would consider CIH is if I could frame out a projection room behind the main seating wall which would enable me to reach 2.35 much wider than I am now while keeping 16:9 roughly 120". I was worried the screen would be too big but, if anything, I already think it is too small!
> 
> I have about 6' of empty attic behind the seating area. I won't be changing the setup for this projector, but some future setup may involve moving the projector into its own dedicated space. I see now that projection at home is a money pit and I'm sure I'll fall deeper into it as time goes on. I could never go back to a television for film.


Blanking is a pain to turn on and set up just for each aspect ratio changing movie. Now once projectors have a way that you can store the blanking settings in a memory, then it will be very useful. The new RS4500 will have this. CIH is a great way to go, but not if you are talking about going with the same width screen you would go with in 16:9.


----------



## Savatage316

MaximTre said:


> Tested all the hdr games, no problem.
> Have you checked projector settings, color space, hdr1 etc (advanced tab)?
> Ps4 Pro shoukd activate hdr by itself, but you can check ingame settings to be sure.


Well that's the thing, still learning the ins and outs of this stuff. I assumed that hdr was just "on" , and that the hdr 1 2 3 etc... We're simply different presets. 

I mean if you could, what options should I make sure are selected for hdr?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Quetion for the Philips owners. What is the best way to watch UHD & BD disks with this projector?
should I set the output resolution to 4K with UHD & 1080p with BD?
reason Im asking is that when I set it to auto I cant use the 4K enhancement option on the Epson for BD (1080p content) because the output from the player is 4k.


----------



## chiltonj

ana_moo_ana said:


> Quetion for the Philips owners. What is the best way to watch UHD & BD disks with this projector?
> should I set the output resolution to 4K with UHD & 1080p with BD?
> reason Im asking is that when I set it to auto I cant use the 4K enhancement option on the Epson for BD (1080p content) because the output from the player is 4k.


I literally just asked this related question to Epson where I wanted to know whether I should process video using my receiver or the projector. Below is the response and I don't know if that is the answer I was looking for so I think that I'll bring content in to my receiver and have that process 4k and set the projector to Auto which should grey out the 4k Enhancement option all the time on the Epson. BTW, I use the Philips and turned 4k/60p OFF and 24p Auto and the output is 4k.HDR.

Thank you for contacting Epson regarding your Epson PowerLite Pro Cinema 6040UB.

To address your concern, please refer to all the information below:

Connect your image source to the projector's *HDMI1 *port. In the Signal menu, select *Advanced *and set the *Color Space *and *Dynamic Range *settings to *Auto*.

The projector will automatically detect and display compatible signals only. If you don't see an image, check the projector's Info menu to make sure you are sending a compatible 4K HDR signal to the projector. If the Color Format section of the Info menu does not display *4K BT.2020 *and *HDR*, the signal is not compatible. See the tables below for a list of signals compatible with your projector.
*Compatible Signals*

Display format
Chroma subsampling
8-bit (SDR only)
10-bit
12-bit
4K (60p)
4:4:4
No
No
No
4:2:2
No
No
No
4:2:0
*Yes*
No
No
4K (24p)
4:4:4
*Yes*
No
No
4:2:2
*Yes*
*Yes*
*Yes**
4:2:0
This signal is not supported.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

chiltonj said:


> I literally just asked this related question to Epson where I wanted to know whether I should process video using my receiver or the projector. Below is the response and I don't know if that is the answer I was looking for so I think that I'll bring content in to my receiver and have that process 4k and set the projector to Auto which should grey out the 4k Enhancement option all the time on the Epson. BTW, I use the Philips and turned 4k/60p OFF and 24p Auto and the output is 4k.HDR.
> 
> Thank you for contacting Epson regarding your Epson PowerLite Pro Cinema 6040UB.
> 
> To address your concern, please refer to all the information below:
> 
> Connect your image source to the projector's *HDMI1 *port. In the Signal menu, select *Advanced *and set the *Color Space *and *Dynamic Range *settings to *Auto*.
> 
> The projector will automatically detect and display compatible signals only. If you don't see an image, check the projector's Info menu to make sure you are sending a compatible 4K HDR signal to the projector. If the Color Format section of the Info menu does not display *4K BT.2020 *and *HDR*, the signal is not compatible. See the tables below for a list of signals compatible with your projector.
> *Compatible Signals*
> 
> Display format
> Chroma subsampling
> 8-bit (SDR only)
> 10-bit
> 12-bit
> 4K (60p)
> 4:4:4
> No
> No
> No
> 4:2:2
> No
> No
> No
> 4:2:0
> *Yes*
> No
> No
> 4K (24p)
> 4:4:4
> *Yes*
> No
> No
> 4:2:2
> *Yes*
> *Yes*
> *Yes**
> 4:2:0
> This signal is not supported.




thanks for the feedback, seems they didnt get the question correctly. It's just annoying to switch between resolutions every time u want to play UHD or BD.


----------



## EveryGlenn17

Well I had a chance to play a bit of the last of us remastered on my ps4 pro. 1080p/hdr looks great, and upscaling makes the difference between it and 4k pretty insignificant, at least to my eyes on a 100" screen about 8 ft away. I'm pretty happy with the duo. I've not seen hdr content @ home prior to this, so I may not be the best judge I suppose. 

I still have not gotten any hdr from netflix/etc to work, but I think that's a ps4 pro issue. The amazon 4k looks better than Netflix 4k to me. Netflix has a grainy look with all the 4k I tried. 

I'm still holding out hope ps4 pro or epson could have an eventual update that diversifies how it can send/receive 4k/hdr, but I won't hold my breath. I'm sure they will update Netflix/amazon/YouTube to do hdr at least.


----------



## dvdwilly3

ana_moo_ana said:


> thanks for the feedback, seems they didnt get the question correctly. It's just annoying to switch between resolutions every time u want to play UHD or BD.


One of the beauties of this projector is the ability to save a set of settings to one of the 10 memory slots.

Then, rename the memory slot that you saved it to, say, memory slot 3 to something like "UHD".

Save a different set of settings to UHD, Bluray, Sports, Gaming, etc. You can do that 10 times.

Search for 5040/6040 Memory Profiles to see examples In that thread.

Then, when you are going to watch a UHD, click on the Memory button on the remote, click on Load Memory, and click on UHD. So, 3 quick clicks and you have an entire new profile loaded.


----------



## Dave Harper

ana_moo_ana said:


> really sad to hear about the HDR limitation on ps4pro & xbox



The XBox One S will send HDR if you have the wireless 5040UBe option.


----------



## dotorg

In case anyone's curious, as far as I can tell HDR also does not work with the Chromecast Ultra, even over the WirelessHD connection. 4K does, and its pretty spectacular, but combinations of specific videos that other sites say will come out as BT2020 with other displays do not do so with the Epson.

I'm still fiddling with it, but given there's really no configuration for the Chromecast to speak of, I think it is what it is.


----------



## c.kingsley

Mike Garrett said:


> Blanking is a pain to turn on and set up just for each aspect ratio changing movie. Now once projectors have a way that you can store the blanking settings in a memory, then it will be very useful. The new RS4500 will have this. CIH is a great way to go, but not if you are talking about going with the same width screen you would go with in 16:9.


I'm pretty sure blanking saves in the memory slot, but I could validate later. If I'm horribly wrong, I apologize up front. 

As to CIH, the problem is I installed the projector at the max throw distance for my room and zoomed as large as it would go. I then became accustomed to 16:9 at that size/width. Now if I went for CIH, 16:9 would be too small. I already feel like 2.35 is a little small on a 120" 16:9. I'm glad I didn't buy a screen until getting used to the screen. This is a great compromise until some future date when I can move the PJ into a hush box another 2-3' back and then I will be able to shoot a huge 2.35 frame.


----------



## c.kingsley

There has been a lot of talk about doing it but has anyone put an HDFury on the 5040 yet? If so, what were the results?

And I have an amendment to my earlier declaration that there was no noise with fauK engaged. That was not true. I do hear a noise, but it is almost like a resonant frequency. I have to stand in two specific zones in the room, neither of which are in the seating position, to hear the sound. For me, it is about 6' in front of the projector. I first noticed it when moving to change a disc in the player. In those two "pockets" it is quite audible when the audio is muted but elsewhere I can't hear it at all.


----------



## seplant

PhoenixCoyote said:


> I also picked up a PS4 Pro today and found that HDR is limited to 2K with my 5040ub. I'm pretty sure it's due to the 10 Ggbs bandwidth limitation of the 5040's chipset. Go to page 1 of this thread and scroll down for an explanation. There's also a chart which shows what the 5040 will and won't handle. PS4 Pro requires 10 bits for 4K HDR support. Bandwidth for 4K60 10-bits is 11.1 Gbps, beyond the 10 Gbps limit of the 5040. If you want to play games with HDR enabled, you'll have to set the PS4 Pro resolution to 1080p.


Since this projector is native 2K, does it really make that much of a difference if HDR from the PS4 Pro is limited to 2K? If it was able to handle a 4K HDR signal from the PS4 Pro, it would still have to downscale it to 2K HDR, wouldn't it?


----------



## c.kingsley

seplant said:


> Since this projector is native 2K, does it really make that much of a difference if HDR from the PS4 Pro is limited to 2K? If it was able to handle a 4K HDR signal from the PS4 Pro, it would still have to downscale it to 2K HDR, wouldn't it?


It still receives 4k, it doesn't downscale. The resolvable resolution from pixel shifting does not produce a true 4k. The 4k source would be superior even though the actual resolution on the display isn't 4k. Whether that makes a large difference or not would be hard to say without a direct comparison.


----------



## c.kingsley

I asked this previous but no one answered. What programs are you guys using to play 4k HDR clips from either a Mac or PC? I've tried on both and while I can achieve 4k playback, it always ends up rec 709. Has anyone been able to get a computer to output HDR video?


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> The XBox One S will send HDR if you have the wireless 5040UBe option.


For movies only (I have the wireless version).
Games and netflix require an hdfury device, I have the linker.


----------



## Justkidding

So with the Xbox One S and the HD fury linker you have Netflix hdr worked by letting the linker down scale the 4k signal to 1080p?


----------



## Tommy O'Brien

MaximTre said:


> For movies only (I have the wireless version).
> Games and netflix require an hdfury device, I have the linker.


I got a great deal on the Epson 5040UB, however, I was planning on using my Xbox One S and looked forward to HDR on my gaming, Movies, and Netflix. First time hearing of hdfury, would you be so kind as to explain set-up, or a link to a guide for enabling this on the non-wireless? Thx


----------



## k3nnis

Does the wireless version of 5040 allow you to use wired HDMI as well? Or only wireless?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

Tommy O'Brien said:


> I got a great deal on the Epson 5040UB, however, I was planning on using my Xbox One S and looked forward to HDR on my gaming, Movies, and Netflix. First time hearing of hdfury, would you be so kind as to explain set-up, or a link to a guide for enabling this on the non-wireless? Thx


It's plug and play, just connect the hdmi cables.


----------



## MaximTre

k3nnis said:


> Does the wireless version of 5040 allow you to use wired HDMI as well? Or only wireless?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Both.
The wireless hub is really good, 3 hdmi in one hdmi out, not a cheap thing.


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> Both.
> 
> The wireless hub is really good, 3 hdmi in one hdmi out, not a cheap thing.




Thanks. This may sound strange, if I bought a non wireless 5040 or 6040 can I in future buy the wireless separately?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dataJunkie

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. This may sound strange, if I bought a non wireless 5040 or 6040 can I in future buy the wireless separately?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Would like to know this too .. been looking around and can't find the 4k WiHD transmitter advertised anywhere as a standalone device


----------



## dvdwilly3

dataJunkie said:


> Would like to know this too .. been looking around and can't find the 4k WiHD transmitter advertised anywhere as a standalone device


I do not think that you can.

If you Google for a video of the tear down of the TW9300, it looks like it is integral to the build...

Forget Googling, this is it...

http://cine4home.de/der-epson-eh-tw9300w-im-teardown-video-test/

If it were feasible, it should have been available for the 5030. Try Googling for that...


----------



## aaranddeeman

dvdwilly3 said:


> I do not think that you can.
> 
> If you Google for a video of the tear down of the TW9300, it looks like it is integral to the build...
> 
> Forget Googling, this is it...
> 
> http://cine4home.de/der-epson-eh-tw9300w-im-teardown-video-test/
> 
> If it were feasible, it should have been available for the 5030. Try Googling for that...


But no one stops from buying a third party device if (and when) it becomes available.
Today there are 1080p transmitter and receiver pairs. I don't know if one for 4K exists as I never researched.


----------



## gnolivos

Anyone have input on this? Need to know limitations for movie streaming. 



gnolivos said:


> I was planning on buying a PS4 Pro today, solely as a Streaming player for VUDU, Youtube, and AmazonPrime **in 4K**. (also as a regular 1080p bluray player, no UHD)
> 
> 1) Am I understanding that just as with games, I am not going to be able to obtain 4K HDR for these streaming services with the 5040?
> 2) How about just plain 4k streaming WITHOUT HDR? Is that possible at least?
> 
> I'm coming from a PS3, so there may be nothing to gain here from an upgrade Point Of View. Wanted to make sure. Please provide any input ! Thx


----------



## Kelvin1000

Super interested in this as well


----------



## Kelvin1000

YouTube 4K confirmed

VUDU app not working at all on any resolution (invalid device error)

Pending Amazon and Netflix


----------



## dotorg

dotorg said:


> In case anyone's curious, as far as I can tell HDR also does not work with the Chromecast Ultra, even over the WirelessHD connection. 4K does, and its pretty spectacular, but combinations of specific videos that other sites say will come out as BT2020 with other displays do not do so with the Epson.
> 
> I'm still fiddling with it, but given there's really no configuration for the Chromecast to speak of, I think it is what it is.


An update... I did quite a bit of back-and-forth testing with YouTube, Vimeo, and Netflix (all which support 4K at various framerates, and HDR).

100% of sources sent to the Chromecast Ultra output at 59.96fps 4k, 8-bit 4:2:0. Even if the source video is 24fps, the Chromecast outputs 60fps. And even if the source video is 1080P, it outputs 4K. So, basically, its not really useful on the 5040/6040 unless you're solely looking for 4K resolution. The 2K upscaling is noticeably worse than the 4K enhancement in the projector, so a normal Chromecast or other device sending a 24fps 1080P signal to the projector gives a visibly better picture. And there's no possibility of HDR working, no matter the source framerate.

It bums me out that the Epson is so picky about formats, and that essentially nothing works properly with it, especially for $3300. Its pretty clear given that essentially no 4K devices only support 10.2gbit HDMI that essentially no sources account for that possibility. Its a fantastic image quality, but it seems pretty clear it'll forever be hamstrung by the bandwidth limitation... its not like the pool of devices that don't support 18gbit is going to grow. Over time even fewer things will sync up properly.


----------



## spirithockey79

c.kingsley said:


> I'm pretty sure blanking saves in the memory slot, but I could validate later. If I'm horribly wrong, I apologize up front.
> 
> As to CIH, the problem is I installed the projector at the max throw distance for my room and zoomed as large as it would go. I then became accustomed to 16:9 at that size/width. Now if I went for CIH, 16:9 would be too small. I already feel like 2.35 is a little small on a 120" 16:9. I'm glad I didn't buy a screen until getting used to the screen. This is a great compromise until some future date when I can move the PJ into a hush box another 2-3' back and then I will be able to shoot a huge 2.35 frame.




Unfortunately blanking does not save to either the picture setting memory or a lens position memory. It seems to be saved by input, which is at least useful.


----------



## Kelvin1000

dotorg said:


> It bums me out that the Epson is so picky about formats, and that essentially nothing works properly with it, especially for $3300. Its pretty clear given that essentially no 4K devices only support 10.2gbit HDMI that essentially no sources account for that possibility. Its a fantastic image quality, but it seems pretty clear it'll forever be hamstrung by the bandwidth limitation... its not like the pool of devices that don't support 18gbit is going to grow. Over time even fewer things will sync up properly.


The Epson is more than capable of displaying the 4K UHD HDR Blu-ray Disc industry standard format.

Some of the streaming devices output HDR but only do so at 60hz which requires 18gbit cables that tend to have a lot of problems for anything longer than 15 feet (which is a limitation for many projector setups). I believe this is why the disc standard doesn't require so much bandwidth.

If you don't care about HDR, then there are no real limitations to the 4K content that the Epson can display (and it displays it beautifully).

Personally, I don't think that projectors (even one as bright as this one) can put out the brightness that is required to really take advantage of HDR. 

For my taste, the 4K SDR content ends up looking better.


----------



## zimmea

Has anyone measured lumen output of production models at the various modes?
Trying to gauge image brightness for my setup in various modes. Looking to drive a 135" 16:9 from aprox 24ft throw with not the best light control during the day.

I'm finding a range of data from official reviews

Projector Central has way to good to be true numbers


> MODE High Medium Eco
> Dynamic 3509 2702 2630
> Bright Cinema	2413 1863 1806
> Natural 1846 1417 1382
> Cinema 1108 856 827
> Digital Cinema	1157 891 866


Projectorreviews.com have much lower numbers:


> Lumen Output and Color Temp at 100 IRE (mid zoom and Medium lamp):
> Dynamic	[email protected]
> Bright Cinema	[email protected]
> Natural	[email protected]
> Cinema	[email protected] (High Bulb [email protected])
> B&W Cinema	[email protected]
> Digital Cinema	[email protected]


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> For movies only (I have the wireless version).
> 
> Games and netflix require an hdfury device, I have the linker.



Thanks for the info!



aaranddeeman said:


> But no one stops from buying a third party device if (and when) it becomes available.
> 
> Today there are 1080p transmitter and receiver pairs. I don't know if one for 4K exists as I never researched.



Yes but the issue will be that if you use a separate wireless transmitter and receiver, you'd still be using the HDMI 1 wired input on the projector, thus still using the chip inside that has the same limitations. 

The advantage of the Epson wireless receiver that's integrated into the 5040UBe is that the signal uses a different HDMI decoder chip that has the higher capabilities than the one for the wired inputs. Those are apparently bypassed when using wireless mode. I believe the German site cine4home has pictures of the two different chips. 

There's info about this earlier in the thread.


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks. So I am debating to get the wireless 5040/6040 or the wired version? Since the wireless will have best if both worlds??? Am I right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Varun05

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. So I am debating to get the wireless 5040/6040 or the wired version? Since the wireless will have best if both worlds??? Am I right?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes I would say better to get wireless one. I also got the same and there is no loss of transmission using wireless. 
For 300 more you get better connectivity and easy installation.


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks. But are they available in black?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Varun05

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks. But are they available in black?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes. 6040 ube model.


----------



## rowan_u

PhoenixCoyote said:


> I also picked up a PS4 Pro today and found that HDR is limited to 2K with my 5040ub. I'm pretty sure it's due to the 10 Ggbs bandwidth limitation of the 5040's chipset. Go to page 1 of this thread and scroll down for an explanation. There's also a chart which shows what the 5040 will and won't handle. PS4 Pro requires 10 bits for 4K HDR support. Bandwidth for 4K60 10-bits is 11.1 Gbps, beyond the 10 Gbps limit of the 5040. If you want to play games with HDR enabled, you'll have to set the PS4 Pro resolution to 1080p.


Can anybody who owns PS4 pro and 5040 post a screenshot of the information page of an 1080p HDR signal being accepted by the projector? Still not clear on whether or not this is possible other than hypothetically. Thanks!


----------



## dvdwilly3

dotorg said:


> An update... I did quite a bit of back-and-forth testing with YouTube, Vimeo, and Netflix (all which support 4K at various framerates, and HDR).
> 
> 100% of sources sent to the Chromecast Ultra output at 59.96fps 4k, 8-bit 4:2:0. Even if the source video is 24fps, the Chromecast outputs 60fps. And even if the source video is 1080P, it outputs 4K. So, basically, its not really useful on the 5040/6040 unless you're solely looking for 4K resolution. The 2K upscaling is noticeably worse than the 4K enhancement in the projector, so a normal Chromecast or other device sending a 24fps 1080P signal to the projector gives a visibly better picture. And there's no possibility of HDR working, no matter the source framerate.
> 
> It bums me out that the Epson is so picky about formats, and that essentially nothing works properly with it, especially for $3300. Its pretty clear given that essentially no 4K devices only support 10.2gbit HDMI that essentially no sources account for that possibility. Its a fantastic image quality, but it seems pretty clear it'll forever be hamstrung by the bandwidth limitation... its not like the pool of devices that don't support 18gbit is going to grow. Over time even fewer things will sync up properly.


Take a look at this Sony article on HDR vs SDR and see which images you prefer.

https://pro.sony.com/bbsccms/assets/files/cat/mondisp/articles/HDR_X300_explained.pdf

For me, in most, if not all examples shown, I prefer SDR...


----------



## achristians

Would someone please explain to me what would be the better option in this scenario to achieve the full 18gbit bandwidth? Would it be better to buy the standard 5040ub plus an HD Fury Integral for $3250 or would it be less confusing, more user friendly, and more streamlined just buying the 5040ube for $3300? I don't know that it's really that big of a deal to me how easy setup is. I just am curious what I would be gaining or losing by choosing option 1 over option 2.


----------



## Jackattack51

rowan_u said:


> Can anybody who owns PS4 pro and 5040 post a screenshot of the information page of an 1080p HDR signal being accepted by the projector? Still not clear on whether or not this is possible other than hypothetically. Thanks!


I'm getting my 5040 tomorrow and have the Pro and I'll post a screenshot tomorrow after I get it all setup. For now though, I have no doubt that it will work just fine at 1080p. PM me if I forget.


----------



## firefox20000

Is there anyone with an 5040ube with PS4pro and can make a screenshot from the infoscreen? I need a 100% guarantee that the ube-Epson can 4K/HDR over wireless! Over wired-connection is there no chance?


----------



## Jackattack51

achristians said:


> Would someone please explain to me what would be the better option in this scenario to achieve the full 18gbit bandwidth? Would it be better to buy the standard 5040ub plus an HD Fury Integral for $3250 or would it be less confusing, more user friendly, and more streamlined just buying the 5040ube for $3300? I don't know that it's really that big of a deal to me how easy setup is. I just am curious what I would be gaining or losing by choosing option 1 over option 2.


First, the two options achieve different things. And second, I think you would be better off with the linker rather than the integral. 

The 5040ube is a slightly more capable projector out of the box. Take a look at this from the manual: 










The UBe gains the ability to transmit 4k/24 @ 4:4:4 10 and 12bit before the wireless bandwidth gives out. It doesn't add anything when transmitting at 60hz which is the only place you bump up against the 18gbit limit. 

The HD Fury linker on the other hand is able to convert subsampling and color depth on the fly. This allow for the linker to advertise to the source device that it accepts up to an 18gbps signal, but down convert the signal for the projector which is stuck at 10.2. Depending on what you are trying to achieve this may be useful. 

For my purposes I want to drop the 10bit color depth down to 8bit on a 4k/60/4:2:0 signal while preserving the HDR metadata. I believe this should work and I will report back tomorrow my findings when this stuff arrives. 

So basically, if you are only ever dealing with 24 or 30hz content, the UBe might provide some benefit to you. If you want to add more options at 60hz you'll need to look into something like the HD fury linker.


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

zimmea said:


> Has anyone measured lumen output of production models at the various modes?
> Trying to gauge image brightness for my setup in various modes. Looking to drive a 135" 16:9 from aprox 24ft throw with not the best light control during the day.
> 
> I'm finding a range of data from official reviews
> 
> Projector Central has way to good to be true numbers
> 
> 
> Projectorreviews.com have much lower numbers:


Projector reviews numbers are calibrated figures and mid zoom, so will be lower. PJ Centrals look like out of the box uncalibrated settings, and possibly at full zoom, so will have higher numbers.


----------



## Whopper80

Hi everyone,

I have been quietly following this thread and want to chime in with some test results:

I am using a PS4PRO connected via SONY 1040 receiver (4K capable HDMI) to the 5040UBe via Wireless Receiver Port 1. I do get 4k, but no HDR. 
Bypassing the SONY 1040 receiver and connecting the PS4Pro directly to the Wireless receiver yields the same results: no HDR but 4K works.
Setting the Display settings in the PS4Pro to 1080p does also NOT allow HDR for anything, not games, not Netflix. Turning of HDCP does also not make a difference (other than that Netflix doesnt start anymore).
Connecting my PS4 (non Pro) to the Wireless receiver DOES allow me to have HDR in Infamous Second Light, but not in Netflix (I believe that is because Netflix only pushes HDR if 4k is also available). It is surprising though that the old PS4 does let me activate HDR in 1080p resolution, but the PS4Pro set fixed to 1080p does not.

Connecting the Philips UHD player to the Projector directly via Wireless receiver gives me 4K & HDR using a UHD Bluray (Lego Movie), but not on Netflix, where it is only 4k with no HDR.

My conclusion is (and please correct me if that is wrong) that HDR only works if the source is 24 fps (Netflix is probably always set to 60) and 4K, but not on 60 FPS and 4K.
A little bit off-topic but if the PS4Pro is set to 4k Fixed (maybe even on Automatic), it seems to be up-scaling all games to 4K (the 4K upscaling in the projector cannot be disabled at that point which makes me believe its receiving a 4K source already).

The Phillips UHD is also getting returned, because it only helps me to play UHD Blurays which I do not anticipate buying a lot of. The player is very picky in terms of CODECs for Network streaming and USB drive playback so that is not a benefit either that would be worth the cost for it. Menu navigation also seems very slow in UHD Blurays (1-2 seconds until something happens on the screen after the button on the remote was pushed), which is also a big issue.

I am debating on getting the HDFury Integral hoping this can help with the issues, but i am not sure if that would solve it.

I hope these test results help somebody


----------



## c.kingsley

Jackattack51 said:


> First, the two options achieve different things. And second, I think you would be better off with the linker rather than the integral....
> 
> For my purposes I want to drop the 10bit color depth down to 8bit on a 4k/60/4:2:0 signal while preserving the HDR metadata. I believe this should work and I will report back tomorrow my findings when this stuff arrives.


If you get a chance several of us here are greatly curious about what results are obtained by using an HDFury to strip HDR while retaining WCG during UHD playback (4k - 4:2:2 - 24p - 10/12bit). I'm considering a purchase of one of these devices so I can use a device like the XB1 S that expects 18gpbs capability and if it improves the UHD experience by stripping HDR on some titles then that is a nice side benefit. Don't get me wrong, some of the HDR discs look quite good on the 5040, but others are too dark and would benefit from stripping out HDR.


----------



## c.kingsley

Gary Lightfoot said:


> Projector reviews numbers are calibrated figures and mid zoom, so will be lower. PJ Centrals look like out of the box uncalibrated settings, and possibly at full zoom, so will have higher numbers.


To add to that anecdotally:

I'm shooting a 120" 1.1gain screen which is as wide as possible at my throw distance. This projector is extremely bright, even with the iris clamped to -4, in my case. I was watching The Force Awakens last night (blu ray) on Cinema mode. The scene where


Spoiler



starkiller base fires its weapon and blows up Coruscant


 was too bright, it actually hurt my eyes. I am probably going to work on clamping the iris more to further improve black levels. Lumens output is not something to even be remotely concerned with on this projector and that includes Digital Cinema with the P3 filter engaged (HDR content is often dim, of course). I suggest setting up an appointment to view the projector for yourself, if you have the option at a nearby dealer. It is a light cannon.


----------



## c.kingsley

Whopper80 said:


> The Phillips UHD is also getting returned, because it only helps me to play UHD Blurays which I do not anticipate buying a lot of. The player is very picky in terms of CODECs for Network streaming and USB drive playback so that is not a benefit either that would be worth the cost for it. Menu navigation also seems very slow in UHD Blurays (1-2 seconds until something happens on the screen after the button on the remote was pushed), which is also a big issue.


I agree with this review of the Philips. It is an imperfect player, at best. I also found it to be all but useless for playing 4k files via the network or USB. It says "content unsupported" or something along those lines. Mine has the latest firmware, etc. This player is a bridge to view UHD until the Oppo comes out and it'll be sold as soon as another option is available.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Any idea if this is the latest firmware? I see it says 105 & the website says the latest firmware is 1.05.


----------



## gnolivos

Interesting. I though 1.05 and 1.03 was he latest. I see your have 1.04 on video2.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

gnolivos said:


> Interesting. I though 1.05 and 1.03 was he latest. I see your have 1.04 on video2.




it's the TW-9300 model if it makes any difference


----------



## c.kingsley

ana_moo_ana said:


> it's the TW-9300 model if it makes any difference


Mine says 105/103 which is the latest on the US firmware site. It looks like you have the latest and greatest! I wish they posted release notes on these so we actually knew what was different. This probably means an update is coming soon!


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

c.kingsley said:


> To add to that anecdotally:
> 
> I'm shooting a 120" 1.1gain screen which is as wide as possible at my throw distance. This projector is extremely bright, even with the iris clamped to -4, in my case. I was watching The Force Awakens last night (blu ray) on Cinema mode. The scene where
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> starkiller base fires its weapon and blows up Coruscant
> 
> 
> was too bright, it actually hurt my eyes. I am probably going to work on clamping the iris more to further improve black levels. Lumens output is not something to even be remotely concerned with on this projector and that includes Digital Cinema with the P3 filter engaged (HDR content is often dim, of course). I suggest setting up an appointment to view the projector for yourself, if you have the option at a nearby dealer. It is a light cannon.


You only need 600 lumens to get the DCI spec of 14fL of reflectance from a unity gain screen of your size, so with uncalibrated settings you will get an overly bright image as you describe. I would clamp the iris down to it's max of -10 - it only reduces the lumens by 20% (and increases the contrast by the same amount), which will give you around 21fL in cinema mode (assuming over 800 lumens), and you can open up the iris as the lamp dims with age.

Having a light meter to hand would be useful so you could constantly track the lumens and tweak the iris when necessary.


----------



## c.kingsley

Gary Lightfoot said:


> You only need 600 lumens to get the DCI spec of 14fL of reflectance from a unity gain screen of your size, so with uncalibrated settings you will get an overly bright image as you describe. I would clamp the iris down to it's max of -10 - it only reduces the lumens by 20% (and increases the contrast by the same amount), which will give you around 21fL in cinema mode (assuming over 800 lumens), and you can open up the iris as the lamp dims with age.
> 
> Having a light meter to hand would be useful so you could constantly track the lumens and tweak the iris when necessary.


I did a very basic calibration for rec 709 using the AVS HD709 patterns to set the brightness and contrast but I'm sure you are correct. I have an entirely light controlled room so I have the luxury of calibrating down to 14fL if only I had the right gear to accurately measure. I'd like to get my own colorimeter to do a more thorough calibration though I admit I know just enough to be dangerous about DIY calibration. I had my old SXRD set ISF calibrated by W. Jeff Meier and the results were impressive. It's a shame that the set ended up being replaced due to a large green blob and his efforts were wasted. I haven't professionally calibrated a set since that experience in 2006.

I'll go ahead and clamp to -10 and redo my calibration. Thanks for the input, Gary.


----------



## covsound1

shipment has been pushed back for both linker and fury. has any one tired to just turn off 4k out put on ether the panny or phillip 4k players? i did this and got 422 with 2020 color with out hdr picture looked good. note i was in sdr mode. have not been able to confirm this again due to my work hours. if this is true what a discovery. can someone test this!


----------



## c.kingsley

covsound1 said:


> shipment has been pushed back for both linker and fury. has any one tired to just turn off 4k out put on ether the panny or phillip 4k players? i did this and got 422 with 2020 color with out hdr picture looked good. note i was in sdr mode. have not been able to confirm this again due to my work hours. if this is true what a discovery. can someone test this!


The HDFury Integral page says shipments start in December but the Linker still shows as available. I was just looking at the page a few minutes ago as I'm considering a purchase.


----------



## Whopper80

I got a PM from GNOLIVOS but cannot reply since i dont have enough posts yet, so I hope its Ok to post the question and response here:




gnolivos said:


> Hey, thanks for your post.
> Can you confirm for me whether you can watch YouTube, Netflix, and voodoo, im full 4K but without HDR? I'm assuming the content itself would have to be encoded without HDR if this works at all.
> I am also assuming you cannot watch HDR encoded content and switch off the HDR 'feature' or flag, to pass it through successfully to the Epson.
> 
> 
> Anyway, I am interested only in watching 4K streaming movies etc, even if it is without HDR. Possible?


Hi!

I can confirm that i can watch 4K Netflix, even when i go through my non-HDCP2.2 compliant Sony receiver. I have not tested VOODOO or YouTube though, but I don't see why those wouldn't work. 
I tried several things for the HDR, even putting the Epson on one of its HDR settings hoping that would trigger the HDR compatibility, but it does not work unfortunatelly, which is weird taking into account that the regular PS4 with the same setup CAN send HDR...


----------



## Whopper80

Does somebody have the 105 firmware file for me (I believe I am on 104)? I tried downloading it from EPSON (sorry cannot post link since i dont have enough posts yet) but all i get is:

The requested URL /dsc/vi/fw/EPSONPJ_t5105_103.bin was not found on this server.

Thanks!


----------



## c.kingsley

I just purchased an HDFury Linker. I'll post a review of results of stripping HDR on UHD once it arrives.


----------



## gnolivos

Cool, thanks. So I am assuming you tried Netflix in 4K and all worked fine in SDR? I don't even know whether Netflix has HDR encoded videos yet actually. 

How about YouTube? Can you try 4K video such as this?

Non HDR 4K 60fps: 




HDR 4K: 






Whopper80 said:


> I got a PM from GNOLIVOS but cannot reply since i dont have enough posts yet, so I hope its Ok to post the question and response here:
> 
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I can confirm that i can watch 4K Netflix, even when i go through my non-HDCP2.2 compliant Sony receiver. I have not tested VOODOO or YouTube though, but I don't see why those wouldn't work.
> I tried several things for the HDR, even putting the Epson on one of its HDR settings hoping that would trigger the HDR compatibility, but it does not work unfortunatelly, which is weird taking into account that the regular PS4 with the same setup CAN send HDR...


----------



## Whopper80

YouTube shows only HD but it could be caused by the YouTube app on the PS4Pro not indicating 4K or because the kids are streaming currently and eating my bandwidth. The projector receives a 4K signal though and it does look like 4K on the screen.

Netflix shows the ultra HD 4K logo and the stream also seems 4k, projector shows 4k as well.

I am not sure how to get the stream info in the new PS4 app, there used to be a way to see the actual incoming resolution as an overlay in the app, but I cannot seem to get that shown anymore.


----------



## aaranddeeman

c.kingsley said:


> I just purchased an HDFury Linker. I'll post a review of results of stripping HDR on UHD once it arrives.


Would linker be better option than integral?


----------



## c.kingsley

aaranddeeman said:


> Would linker be better option than integral?


They are very similar with support for many of the same options:

https://www.hdfury.com/comparison/

I don't need the splitting and multi-output options or extra control functions (bluetooth, IR) on the Integral, so I went with the Linker instead. And the linker has additional scaling options that the Integral does not.


----------



## Whopper80

YouTube does play 4k. Was able to enabled the stream info in settings and I can confirm it's a 4k signal.
The amazon app only shows 1080p all the time but the amazon up might not have been updated for 4k on ps4pro. I looked at the updated changelog and none of the last versions of the app show 4k added.


----------



## dvdwilly3

For those debating over the 5040/6040 ability to do 3D...it does it, and does it in spades...

I fooled around with it this morning with Prometheus (one of my favorites...) using both the cheapie Samsung 5150GB glasses ($19.99) and the 3d Active glasses ($45). 
The Samsungs work very well. The 3D Active, even better. And, the 3D Active fit better over eyeglasses.

Insofar as the 3D rendering...one word, "Outstanding!" It makes Prometheus a whole other movie over 2D.
I will have to go back and watch it again...and again...and again...

If you are hesitating, don't. It provides a nice clear, bright picture...now I am going to have to buy some more 3D movies.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

dvdwilly3 said:


> For those debating over the 5040/6040 ability to do 3D...it does it, and does it in spades...
> 
> I fooled around with it this morning with Prometheus (one of my favorites...) using both the cheapie Samsung 5150GB glasses ($19.99) and the 3d Active glasses ($45).
> The Samsungs work very well. The 3D Active, even better. And, the 3D Active fit better over eyeglasses.
> 
> Insofar as the 3D rendering...one word, "Outstanding!" It makes Prometheus a whole other movie over 2D.
> I will have to go back and watch it again...and again...and again...
> 
> If you are hesitating, don't. It provides a nice clear, bright picture...now I am going to have to buy some more 3D movies.




love the 3D on it as well. Though tried Prometheus the other day & saw clear ghosting in the beginning of the movie (the mountain), had to adjust the depth a bit. but overall, very nice indeed.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

BTW, what is the mode number for the 3D Active glasses? I got Panasonic Panasonic VIERA TY-ER3D4MU & Im looking for something bigger


----------



## Whopper80

Whopper80 said:


> Does somebody have the 105 firmware file for me (I believe I am on 104)? I tried downloading it from EPSON (sorry cannot post link since i dont have enough posts yet) but all i get is:
> 
> The requested URL /dsc/vi/fw/EPSONPJ_t5105_103.bin was not found on this server.
> 
> Thanks!


Never mind, found it on the german EPSON website. Worked fine, no issues, and latest version now. Still no change in regards to HDR though.


----------



## aaranddeeman

c.kingsley said:


> I agree with this review of the Philips. It is an imperfect player, at best. I also found it to be all but useless for playing 4k files via the network or USB. It says "content unsupported" or something along those lines. Mine has the latest firmware, etc. This player is a bridge to view UHD until the Oppo comes out and it'll be sold as soon as another option is available.


But then again Oppo is gonna be the disk player only, at least at release time, IIRC.

Would you rate Samsung player above or below Philips?
I know Panasonic is on the forefront at this point in time and Oppo will possibly replace it soon.


----------



## EveryGlenn17

I can definitely confirm that the ps4 pro will output 1080p/hdr on games. The ps4 pro must be set to the 2k/hdr or auto mode, not locked into 1080. In the game menu itself, when hdr is turned on, if you look at the projector info screen you will see that it's outputting 1080p/hdr2. This is for "The Last of Us," the only 4k/hdr game I have. To my eyes, the 4k upscaled 1080p is basically identical to the 4k native, so it seems like a good option to do 1080p/hdr... 

Netflix, Amazon, and YouTube all output 4k, but not hdr. I think I had read that there was no hdr support for the streaming apps on ps4 pro at this time though. If someone with a pro hooked up to a 4k/hdr TV could confirm that'd be cool. 

I may look into the HD fury thing though, sounds interesting. As I said though, 1080p(upscaled) with hdr is beautiful. I need to have more games to really compare and contrast though, as one isn't enough for a really informed opinion I guess. I've seen others say that the hdr on this game isn't that impressive (I guess I agree, it's not a drastic improvement from the sdr), so again more viewing is needed.


----------



## Whopper80

EveryGlenn17 said:


> I can definitely confirm that the ps4 pro will output 1080p/hdr on games. The ps4 pro must be set to the 2k/hdr or auto mode, not locked into 1080. In the game menu itself, when hdr is turned on, if you look at the projector info screen you will see that it's outputting 1080p/hdr2. This is for "The Last of Us," the only 4k/hdr game I have. To my eyes, the 4k upscaled 1080p is basically identical to the 4k native, so it seems like a good option to do 1080p/hdr...
> 
> Netflix, Amazon, and YouTube all output 4k, but not hdr. I think I had read that there was no hdr support for the streaming apps on ps4 pro at this time though. If someone with a pro hooked up to a 4k/hdr TV could confirm that'd be cool.
> 
> I may look into the HD fury thing though, sounds interesting. As I said though, 1080p(upscaled) with hdr is beautiful. I need to have more games to really compare and contrast though, as one isn't enough for a really informed opinion I guess. I've seen others say that the hdr on this game isn't that impressive (I guess I agree, it's not a drastic improvement from the sdr), so again more viewing is needed.



Interesting, I will try that again. Do you have the PS4 directly connected to the Epson (Wireless? HDMI1?) or through other equipment? What is your firmware version on the PS4Pro (mine is latest as of yesterday).
If i set the PS4Pro to Automatic Resolution it always upscales to 4K it seems (a 4K image arrives at the Epson and 4K upscaling in the EPSON is greyed out). I will try setting it to 1080p again and report back.


----------



## c.kingsley

aaranddeeman said:


> But then again Oppo is gonna be the disk player only, at least at release time, IIRC.
> 
> Would you rate Samsung player above or below Philips?
> I know Panasonic is on the forefront at this point in time and Oppo will possibly replace it soon.


I have not seen the Samsung player, so I couldn't say. My understanding last I looked is it did was not working with the 5040UB, so I didn't even consider it when I bought the Philips. Now that I bought the HDFury, I'll have some options.


----------



## Whopper80

Interesting. Connecting the PS4 pro directly to the wireless transmitter allows for hdcp2.2 (my receiver can do 4k but no hdcp2.2). I can now enable HDR in games. The epson gets a 1080p, 60hz, 8bit bt2020 HDR2 signal.
Interestingly, the PS4 doesn't upscale games to 4k anymore now. Even when I set the PS4 manually to 2160p -yuv420, it does not change the resolution if HDR is on automatic. If I turn HDR off manually, in the settings of the PS4, it upscales again.

EDIT: And connecting it back to the SONY 1040, it strips the HDR out again, but upscales to 4K fine...
It must be my Sony AV that causes the HDR issue. I need a device that can split the signal into one port for HDMI audio (to the SONY 1040), and one for the video part (to the EPSON). Hopefully the Fury Integral can do that, or at least make the HDR work.

Does somebody know if HDR has different connection requirements than 4K by itself? I can do 4k fine through the Sony, but not 4K (not even on 1080p).


----------



## EveryGlenn17

Whopper80 said:


> EveryGlenn17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I can definitely confirm that the ps4 pro will output 1080p/hdr on games. The ps4 pro must be set to the 2k/hdr or auto mode, not locked into 1080. In the game menu itself, when hdr is turned on, if you look at the projector info screen you will see that it's outputting 1080p/hdr2. This is for "The Last of Us," the only 4k/hdr game I have. To my eyes, the 4k upscaled 1080p is basically identical to the 4k native, so it seems like a good option to do 1080p/hdr...
> 
> Netflix, Amazon, and YouTube all output 4k, but not hdr. I think I had read that there was no hdr support for the streaming apps on ps4 pro at this time though. If someone with a pro hooked up to a 4k/hdr TV could confirm that'd be cool.
> 
> I may look into the HD fury thing though, sounds interesting. As I said though, 1080p(upscaled) with hdr is beautiful. I need to have more games to really compare and contrast though, as one isn't enough for a really informed opinion I guess. I've seen others say that the hdr on this game isn't that impressive (I guess I agree, it's not a drastic improvement from the sdr), so again more viewing is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting, I will try that again. Do you have the PS4 directly connected to the Epson (Wireless? HDMI1?) or through other equipment? What is your firmware version on the PS4Pro (mine is latest as of yesterday).
> If i set the PS4Pro to Automatic Resolution it always upscales to 4K it seems (a 4K image arrives at the Epson and 4K upscaling in the EPSON is greyed out). I will try setting it to 1080p again and report back.
Click to expand...

I have my setup as Epson PJ 4k hdmi->soundbar with 4k hdmi pass through (Sony htnt5) - > ps4 pro (latest firmware). 

It will display 4k output until I enable hdr in the game menu, at which time it changes to 1080p/hdr (as verified by PJ info screen) . The upscale options are available on the PJ. What I've been doing is having the ps4 pro set to 4k/not RGB and switching the PJ from one set of settings to the other depending if Im using hdr or not. 

I'm not sure if some games don't have a hdr specific toggle or option to trigger this. I believe when I had tried to lock in 1080p on the ps4 pro it said hdr was disabled, but maybe activating it in the game menu would have enabled it.

Edit: just saw your most recent post, I'll verify later tonight that the upscaling was enabled with 1080p/hdr. I'm quite sure it was but I'll verify.


----------



## dvdwilly3

dvdwilly3 said:


> Go here...and thank you. I have the UB900, but did not realize that the region could be unlocked...
> 
> http://www.regionfreedom.com/index....mware-1-03a-for-selected-models-eb-eg-gn-pc:p


DO NOT GO TO THE WEBSITE...

I researched a bit and this guy has some very shady practices...

I wanted to post this as a warning instead of just deleting my previous post...

Sorry...


----------



## dvdwilly3

ana_moo_ana said:


> BTW, what is the mode number for the 3D Active glasses? I got Panasonic Panasonic VIERA TY-ER3D4MU & Im looking for something bigger


This is the model page...I just ordered another pair.

Now, I will 4 pair of those, with 2 pair of the Samsung in case I have all 6 seats occupied for 3D...


----------



## gnolivos

Thanks to everyone posting updates on the ps4pro compatibility situation !


----------



## covsound1

i will read a little more about the integral. thanks for the info. did anyone with panny or Philip 4k blue ray try to strip hdr by (4k off) . when i did this watching warcraft my info page showed 12bits 2020. had to switch my setting to sdr gamma look like what i get from vudu but with wide color. really need someone to compare this to what they from the integral or linker. note my pj is the non wireless 5040. it is my understanding these device rewrite code but leave picture untouched.


----------



## c.kingsley

covsound1 said:


> i will read a little more about the integral. thanks for the info. did anyone with panny or Philip 4k blue ray try to strip hdr by (4k off) . when i did this watching warcraft my info page showed 12bits 2020. had to switch my setting to sdr gamma look like what i get from vudu but with wide color. really need someone to compare this to what they from the integral or linker. note my pj is the non wireless 5040. it is my understanding these device rewrite code but leave picture untouched.


Sorry, but you can't strip HDR from UHD without the HDFury.


----------



## Docj04

Finally hung my 5040ub this afternoon. It's ceiling mounted about 15 feet from my cinegrey 3d screen.
Out of the box, I must say that I'm a good bit discouraged with football Directv. Are there any specific settings that need to be addressed besides in depth calibration to obtain a more "flat panel type" image?

I know that this is a painfully N00b level question, but this is a huge thread at this point.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Docj04 said:


> Finally hung my 5040ub this afternoon. It's ceiling mounted about 15 feet from my cinegrey 3d screen.
> Out of the box, I must say that I'm a good bit discouraged with football Directv. Are there any specific settings that need to be addressed besides in depth calibration to obtain a more "flat panel type" image?
> 
> I know that this is a painfully N00b level question, but this is a huge thread at this point.


Testing with TV as source adds too many parameters.
Connect a UHD Bluray player as a starting point.


----------



## Docj04

It's not nearly as crisp as the same game on my 4 year old sharp 70". I can only hope there is A LOT of tweaking to be done to dial this thing in.
Are there any obvious settings that can be done to get close?


----------



## EveryGlenn17

You should be getting a great image out of the box on natural. I did anyway. This pj took less calibration than any TV or pj I've used before to look great. Are you using the right hdmi port? Is it a serviceable cable? Have you focused the lens? What is your source? How's the resolution? If your looking at low quality video it could definitely look worse on a larger screen. Sorry if any of these are too simple, but just starting at the basics. I'm definitely no expert.


----------



## JewDaddy

Calling all projector experts!!!! Lol. I need your help with this one. Ok, so I've had what appears to be two dust blobs on my 5040 projector image. One in the bottom left corner that can be easily seen when watching blu-ray movies with the black bars. The other is more towards the middle right side that can really only be seen when there's nothing on the screen, i.e., no image or switching images and it goes black. 

Because I didn't purchase my projector from an authorized reseller, I couldn't get it covered directly from Epson under warranty. I went to an authorized repair center and at first they cleaned out the lens and that didn't work. They contacted Epson directly and were able to get an entire lens, optical engine and new motherboard covered under warranty. All of that got replaced and I was so excited to get my projector home. To my disbelief, one of the two dust blobs is still there. Luckily it's not the one on the bottom that was easy to spot. It's the other one that can really only be seen on a blank dark image. 

So, here's my question. If the lens, optical engine and motherboard have been replaced, where is this spot coming from???? And it's not a new spot either. It's the same one from before which means it couldn't have been in the lens or optical engine. Here's a pic showing what it looks like. The only thing I can think of at this point is that it might have something to do with the bulb. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks 




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. This may sound strange, if I bought a non wireless 5040 or 6040 can I in future buy the wireless separately?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk






NO!
I called and asked this from Epson directly. Apparently the 5040UBE is made specifically for the wireless hub only to link together. 
It will not link to the 5040 or the 6040.


I just got my a few days ago.


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks. So if I want to get 4K HDR Netflix or any of the streaming services can a linker and a 5040 do the job? Does Netflix 4K HDR output at 24Hz or 60hz?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

ana_moo_ana said:


> Any idea if this is the latest firmware? I see it says 105 & the website says the latest firmware is 1.05.






gnolivos said:


> Interesting. I though 1.05 and 1.03 was he latest. I see your have 1.04 on video2.






c.kingsley said:


> Mine says 105/103 which is the latest on the US firmware site. It looks like you have the latest and greatest! I wish they posted release notes on these so we actually knew what was different. This probably means an update is coming soon!



If I recall correctly, and I forgot to mention here after I saw it, but my 5040UBe showed 106 and 104. Could maybe the wireless options have a higher FW version? Can someone else with a UBe check theirs too?

I put mine back in the box while I put new carpet in the theater and have been using the Sony 350. Maybe I'll pull it back out and check too. 



dvdwilly3 said:


> DO NOT GO TO THE WEBSITE...
> 
> 
> 
> I researched a bit and this guy has some very shady practices...
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to post this as a warning instead of just deleting my previous post...
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry...



It's probably a good idea to edit your original post to say NOT to click on the link or remove it entirely because I clicked on it while catching up on this thread a few minutes ago.


----------



## sddp

dvdwilly3 said:


> For those debating over the 5040/6040 ability to do 3D...it does it, and does it in spades...
> 
> I fooled around with it this morning with Prometheus (one of my favorites...) using both the cheapie Samsung 5150GB glasses ($19.99) and the 3d Active glasses ($45).
> The Samsungs work very well. The 3D Active, even better. And, the 3D Active fit better over eyeglasses.
> 
> Insofar as the 3D rendering...one word, "Outstanding!" It makes Prometheus a whole other movie over 2D.
> I will have to go back and watch it again...and again...and again...
> 
> If you are hesitating, don't. It provides a nice clear, bright picture...now I am going to have to buy some more 3D movies.





What brand of screen are you using? white or grey?


I haven't bought a screen yet and still on the fence ugh.
So many pros and cons going white or grey.


----------



## galewarrior

c.kingsley said:


> I just purchased an HDFury Linker. I'll post a review of results of stripping HDR on UHD once it arrives.


Looking forward to it. 
How important is 8 vs 10-bit color if HDR is stripped?
4k/60 HZ 4:2:0 at 10 bit sounds like a decent PC hookup, but just breaks the bandwidth.


----------



## kaotikr1

We hooked up a PS4 Pro tonight to the 6040 running through a Lumagen Pro. Here is the info we got. All we did so far was turn HDR on.


----------



## Dave Harper

sddp said:


> What brand of screen are you using? white or grey?
> 
> 
> I haven't bought a screen yet and still on the fence ugh.
> So many pros and cons going white or grey.



If you want to do HDR with good pop to the image with this projector, I'm thinking a nice high gain screen actually. I wouldn't do grey personally.


----------



## dvdwilly3

sddp said:


> What brand of screen are you using? white or grey?
> 
> 
> I haven't bought a screen yet and still on the fence ugh.
> So many pros and cons going white or grey.


A fixed frame Stewart Firehawk in white from 2007. I don't know what generation that makes it...generation 1?

It is 92" diagonal in 16:9 format.

Sometimes you can find the Firehawks on eBay for a reasonable price.


----------



## Dave Harper

dvdwilly3 said:


> A fixed frame Stewart Firehawk in white from 2007. I don't know what generation that makes it...generation 1?
> 
> 
> 
> It is 92" diagonal in 16:9 format.
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes you can find the Firehawks on eBay for a reasonable price.



Did you buy that from AVS? I may have sold it to you.


----------



## dvdwilly3

Dave Harper said:


> If I recall correctly, and I forgot to mention here after I saw it, but my 5040UBe showed 106 and 104. Could maybe the wireless options have a higher FW version? Can someone else with a UBe check theirs too?
> 
> I put mine back in the box while I put new carpet in the theater and have been using the Sony 350. Maybe I'll pull it back out and check too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's probably a good idea to edit your original post to say NOT to click on the link or remove it entirely because I clicked on it while catching up on this thread a few minutes ago.


Done...I was torn between just deleting it in the first place or leaving it as a warning to anyone who might stumble across it...


----------



## dvdwilly3

Dave Harper said:


> Did you buy that from AVS? I may have sold it to you.


Sorry, but no. I bought it from Meyer Emco, a local place, and they installed it.

Since gone out of business unfortunately...


----------



## rowan_u

EveryGlenn17 said:


> I can definitely confirm that the ps4 pro will output 1080p/hdr on games. The ps4 pro must be set to the 2k/hdr or auto mode, not locked into 1080. In the game menu itself, when hdr is turned on, if you look at the projector info screen you will see that it's outputting 1080p/hdr2. This is for "The Last of Us," the only 4k/hdr game I have. To my eyes, the 4k upscaled 1080p is basically identical to the 4k native, so it seems like a good option to do 1080p/hdr...
> 
> Netflix, Amazon, and YouTube all output 4k, but not hdr. I think I had read that there was no hdr support for the streaming apps on ps4 pro at this time though. If someone with a pro hooked up to a 4k/hdr TV could confirm that'd be cool.
> 
> I may look into the HD fury thing though, sounds interesting. As I said though, 1080p(upscaled) with hdr is beautiful. I need to have more games to really compare and contrast though, as one isn't enough for a really informed opinion I guess. I've seen others say that the hdr on this game isn't that impressive (I guess I agree, it's not a drastic improvement from the sdr), so again more viewing is needed.


Are you wired or wireless? Thanks for checking that out!


----------



## Dave Harper

dvdwilly3 said:


> Sorry, but no. I bought it from Meyer Emco, a local place, and they installed it.
> 
> 
> 
> Since gone out of business unfortunately...



Yep, most likely due to my awesome bud Deniz Mutlu and his Evolution Audio store that offers superior equipment and service!


----------



## dataJunkie

firefox20000 said:


> Is there anyone with an 5040ube with PS4pro and can make a screenshot from the infoscreen? I need a 100% guarantee that the ube-Epson can 4K/HDR over wireless! Over wired-connection is there no chance?


Hi there ... HRD @ 1080P on the Pro works fine as I tested it over the weekend with Ratchet and Clank. The Pro detected the Epson and set the res as approproate automatically ... 1080P with HDR2 enabled.

I've not tried anything else yet .. got a bit distracted by R&C's quality colours in HDR 

I don't have the wireless version .. so cannot comment, sorry


----------



## EveryGlenn17

rowan_u said:


> EveryGlenn17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I can definitely confirm that the ps4 pro will output 1080p/hdr on games.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you wired or wireless? Thanks for checking that out!
Click to expand...

I'm wired. Epson->Sony htnt5->ps4pro.


----------



## dataJunkie

Pardon my n00bie question ... but could someone explain why a HDFury Linker or integral will enhance / improve the PQ of the Epson .. I'm a little confused as to how it works seeing as any external device that can manipulate any signal, will always have to pass through the limitation that is the on-board chip within the Epson itself.

So even though the fury Linker has the capability of 4K @ 60Hz @ 4:44:4 .. this will be non-achievable due to the Epson.s chip?

So how can the Linker / Integral assist in any way?

thanks,

n


----------



## firefox20000

kaotikr1 said:


> We hooked up a PS4 Pro tonight to the 6040 running through a Lumagen Pro. Here is the info we got. All we did so far was turn HDR on.


With 8-Bit-Colordepth is there really HDR on? I´m not sure....


----------



## dvdwilly3

firefox20000 said:


> With 8-Bit-Colordepth is there really HDR on? I´m not sure....


Pull up the Epson Menu and change the setting to SDR...you will be able to tell immediately.

If you have it set to Auto, then you are probably getting SDR...


----------



## Dave Harper

dataJunkie said:


> Pardon my n00bie question ... but could someone explain why a HDFury Linker or integral will enhance / improve the PQ of the Epson .. I'm a little confused as to how it works seeing as any external device that can manipulate any signal, will always have to pass through the limitation that is the on-board chip within the Epson itself.
> 
> 
> 
> So even though the fury Linker has the capability of 4K @ 60Hz @ 4:44:4 .. this will be non-achievable due to the Epson.s chip?
> 
> 
> 
> So how can the Linker / Integral assist in any way?
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> n



It can turn off HDR while maintaining the bt2020 wide color gamut. Without one, you can't do this. Turning off HDR would automatically defeat WCG as well.


----------



## kaotikr1

dvdwilly3 said:


> Pull up the Epson Menu and change the setting to SDR...you will be able to tell immediately.
> 
> If you have it set to Auto, then you are probably getting SDR...


You can for sure see a difference if you scroll through those settings.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Yikes. I think my head is spinning. 

I'm going to be buying the 5040 in a few weeks and want to make sure I shouldn't buy the UBe instead? I'd like to play my Xbox One in HDR if possible, but I'm not sure if the HD Fury / UBe combination would be useful.


----------



## Dave Harper

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Yikes. I think my head is spinning.
> 
> I'm going to be buying the 5040 in a few weeks and want to make sure I shouldn't buy the UBe instead? I'd like to play my Xbox One in HDR if possible, but I'm not sure if the HD Fury / UBe combination would be useful.



I would get the UBe wireless version if you're pairing it with an XB1S since that's the only way you'll get HDR from it with movies. 

Once you have that setup, test some HDR movies and at that point decide if you think the image is too dark and then you can try an Integral or Linker to strip HDR but maintain bt2020 WCG.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Dave Harper said:


> I would get the UBe wireless version if you're pairing it with an XB1S since that's the only way you'll get HDR from it with movies.
> 
> Once you have that setup, test some HDR movies and at that point decide if you think the image is too dark and then you can try an Integral or Linker to strip HDR but maintain bt2020 WCG.


Please excuse my ignorance, but if I went with a normal UHD bluray player, would I need the UBe? Is that because the Xbox sends movies at 60fps as opposed to the normal output of a bluray player? Wouldn't that change the way the movie was designed to look?

Edit-> It looks like I found the answer to my wireless question. It appears as though there is a box that needs to be pointed at the front of the projector where you plug in your sources.

I guess the question then is if you can use the output from your receiver so you only have to connect that to the wireless transmitter?


----------



## firefox20000

dvdwilly3 said:


> Pull up the Epson Menu and change the setting to SDR...you will be able to tell immediately.
> 
> If you have it set to Auto, then you are probably getting SDR...



I don´t have an Epson. But i will buy it, when he can 4K/HDR with PS4pro. 
Must i need the lumagen to get this or not?


----------



## Dave Harper

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Please excuse my ignorance, but if I went with a normal UHD bluray player, would I need the UBe? Is that because the Xbox sends movies at 60fps as opposed to the normal output of a bluray player? Wouldn't that change the way the movie was designed to look?
> 
> Edit-> It looks like I found the answer to my wireless question. It appears as though there is a box that needs to be pointed at the front of the projector where you plug in your sources.
> 
> I guess the question then is if you can use the output from your receiver so you only have to connect that to the wireless transmitter?



That depends on which player you use as opposed to the Xbox. I have a Philips here too and that works fine with HDR over wired. The wireless option does give you more input signal capabilities though. My thought was I'd rather have it than not, but you have to decide if that's worth the extra $300 to you. Maybe haggle with your dealer and ask for a free upgrade to the UBe version if you buy a 5040?

The XB1S does output 24Hz/Fps for movies, so it's not the 60Hz you mentioned. 

The wireless transmitter doesn't have to be "pointed at the front of the projector". It is wireless RF, a radio signal, so it will work as long as it's within range of the receiver that's built into the projector. It is LoS (line of sight) though so no obstacles like walls etc. should be between them. 

Yes you can just use the output of your receiver into the transmitter's Input 1 so your receiver acts as the switcher. That's what I did. Works like a charm.


----------



## Docj04

EveryGlenn17 said:


> You should be getting a great image out of the box on natural. I did anyway. This pj took less calibration than any TV or pj I've used before to look great. Are you using the right hdmi port? Is it a serviceable cable? Have you focused the lens? What is your source? How's the resolution? If your looking at low quality video it could definitely look worse on a larger screen. Sorry if any of these are too simple, but just starting at the basics. I'm definitely no expert.


I can attempt to refocus the lens, but I did that on intial power up. The source last night was football night in america on NBC. (had it playing on the PJ and on my old Sharp 70". Fairly certain that the program is broadcast in 1080p--at least 720p. Like I said--the sharp looked notably better.


----------



## galewarrior

Just so I'm clear-

Does the UBe version allow 4K/30 4:4:4 *10 bit*, which the Xbox one S uses for movie playback? From here, one can use a Fury to disable HDR and keep WCG. Working 4k Bluray HDR support.

The wired version does not support Xbox one S HDR support as the cap is 4K/30 4:4:4 *8-bit*. With or without the Fury, no 4k Bluray HD support.

But what about streaming services?

Can the UBe version also get us to 4K/60 4:2:0 and 10 bit? This is the magic number for me. I really want to be a able to use 60Hz and retain WCG 2020 4k. Streaming services sure are easy to use these days and I don't want to be stuck to physical disks all the time. It would be personal preference to either strip or retain HDR from here. 

Trying to figure out if we can ever get 10-bit color with 60Hz with this unit. I see 30hz being fine with movie players, but games and streaming will be tough.


----------



## Ashma

5040UB settings for picture mode question

I just set up the 5040ub in my home and am using the Sound and Vision settings for Cinema mode. 
The picture quality is lovely. Is anyone using these settings and if so, is there any reason not to use these settings for Digital Cinema?
Any modifications that people have made that improved the picture quality further?
Most of what I have read so for is for the issues with HDR and not standard 1080p, so owners' thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## gnolivos

Docj04 said:


> I can attempt to refocus the lens, but I did that on intial power up. The source last night was football night in america on NBC. (had it playing on the PJ and on my old Sharp 70". Fairly certain that the program is broadcast in 1080p--at least 720p. Like I said--the sharp looked notably better.




I suggest first you zoom down the Epson to a 70" screen size. Then compare side by side with your Sharp Tv. Much more fair comparison.


----------



## dvdwilly3

Ashma said:


> 5040UB settings for picture mode question
> 
> I just set up the 5040ub in my home and am using the Sound and Vision settings for Cinema mode.
> The picture quality is lovely. Is anyone using these settings and if so, is there any reason not to use these settings for Digital Cinema?
> Any modifications that people have made that improved the picture quality further?
> Most of what I have read so for is for the issues with HDR and not standard 1080p, so owners' thoughts would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I think that you will find that your PQ will benefit from using settings specific to your use, that is, settings for UHD would be different from settings for bluray. And, you can save the profiles to memory and rename them appropriately. For instance, one of mine is renamed "TIVO".

Search for *5040/6040 Memory Profiles*and you will find the settings that I have used as well as example screen shots. And, I do specify which equipment I am using for the settings.

It at least gives you something to experiment with.


----------



## achristians

Dave Harper said:


> I would get the UBe wireless version if you're pairing it with an XB1S since that's the only way you'll get HDR from it with movies.
> 
> Once you have that setup, test some HDR movies and at that point decide if you think the image is too dark and then you can try an Integral or Linker to strip HDR but maintain bt2020 WCG.


Dave - Are you 100% positive that the only way to get HDR with the Xbox is with the ube model? I thought that the integral or linker is what provides the 18gb bandwidth and the ability to have or strip HDR? Not calling you out as wrong. Just really confused now.


----------



## gnolivos

I just got a call from Epson support stating that they have finally nailed down the cause of the 'freeze' issue I (and at least one other member here) have been having with the 5040. They said a firmware fix is in the works and we should be seeing it in an upcoming version. 

I am very impressed with their responsiveness and willingness to get these issues resolved.


----------



## Dave Harper

achristians said:


> Dave - Are you 100% positive that the only way to get HDR with the Xbox is with the ube model? I thought that the integral or linker is what provides the 18gb bandwidth and the ability to have or strip HDR? Not calling you out as wrong. Just really confused now.



Sorry, but I'm equally confused as to what you're asking? The Integral or
Linker don't "provide" any bandwidth, the source, intermediate device, cable and display determine what that max is. The Integral and Linker just fool the source into thinking it's connected to a full 18Gbps HDR display and then can be changed to meet your particular display's max capabilities. 

From what I recall when I tested these, I wasn't able to get the option to select HDR in the XB1S menu when I used wired, both through my Pioneer Elite receiver and direct to the 5040. When I connected it to the wireless transmitter however, both thru and around the receiver, I DID get the HDR selection option. Does that clear anything up?

I can't speak for 100% certainty whether anyone else has gotten the wired to work with HDR between the two and I do recall someone saying here in reply to me that the wireless HDR only worked with video (movies, etc) and not games, which I don't really do except for the occasional game with my son when I need to kick his ass at Madden or NHL!


----------



## QuantumCosmos

*UHD bluray movies only playing at 1080p via Xbox One S*

Hi. I have an issue when playing any 4k UHD bluray movie on Xbox One S where it will ONLY display 1080p on my Epson 5040UB. 
The Xbox one s is setup correctly for 4k, plays Netflix at 4k (verified via Epson projector info screen) and will output/upscale to 4k when I play a regular 1080p bluray movie (also verified by Epson info screen). 
I also have my Windows 10 PC setup at 4k, which plays games flawlessly at 4k on this projector. 
I have still not upgraded to firmware 105, if that makes a difference. 
Please see both attached images showing 4K UHD movie at 1080p using BluRay app, and Xbox one S home screen at 4k
Since the projector is reporting 4k on the Xbox One S home screen, then it is connected properly, but not playing UHD bluray movies at correct resolution
I could not find any resolution when searching this, hopefully someone here has a quick fix? 
Thanks!


----------



## Docj04

gnolivos said:


> I suggest first you zoom down the Epson to a 70" screen size. Then compare side by side with your Sharp Tv. Much more fair comparison.


Zoomed it down all the way, and it's still no comparison. I will try the settings suggested in this thread, but I'm beginning to wonder if I grossly overestimated the ability of this PJ (or any in the $3-5k range) in it's ability to reproduce anything close to a flat panel TV.

I haven't lost hope, and feel that any product that advertises HD and even pseudo-4K should render a picture better than what essentially looks like standard def/non-digital. Perhaps the Cinegrey 3D I opted for is the culprit. At this point, It's almost unacceptable.


----------



## c.kingsley

Docj04 said:


> Zoomed it down all the way, and it's still no comparison. I will try the settings suggested in this thread, but I'm beginning to wonder if I grossly overestimated the ability of this PJ (or any in the $3-5k range) in it's ability to reproduce anything close to a flat panel TV.
> 
> I haven't lost hope, and feel that any product that advertises HD and even pseudo-4K should render a picture better than what essentially looks like standard def/non-digital. Perhaps the Cinegrey 3D I opted for is the culprit. At this point, It's almost unacceptable.


Something is wrong somewhere. It could be your screen, your signal chain, lens focus or any variety of other settings. Out of the box the projector should look quite good. With a little tinkering, it looks even better. I feel fairly confident stating it isn't the projector (unless something is wrong with yours). My 5040 looks like a huge 120" LCD which is exactly as it should. Everyone who has come over to watch it has been blown away by the picture quality. The picture produced by these projectors is amazing. Browse back through this thread at some pictures people have shared. Even those don't accurately describe how great it looks in person.

Take some pictures and share what you're seeing. Show us your info screen so we can see what your source input is.


----------



## Docj04

c.kingsley said:


> Something is wrong somewhere. It could be your screen, your signal chain, lens focus or any variety of other settings. Out of the box the projector should look quite good. With a little tinkering, it looks even better. I feel fairly confident stating it isn't the projector (unless something is wrong with yours). My 5040 looks like a huge 120" LCD which is exactly as it should. Everyone who has come over to watch it has been blown away by the picture quality. The picture produced by these projectors is amazing. Browse back through this thread at some pictures people have shared. Even those don't accurately describe how great it looks in person.
> 
> Take some pictures and share what you're seeing. Show us your info screen so we can see what your source input is.












So difficult to capture, but the image on the screen is very soft and even blurry.

It looks like low definition even non digital pq

Sent from my HTC6515LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

If the image looks soft please try: 1) insert a good quality bluray and determine if still not sharp
2) refocus
3) try the panel alignment feature. It can do wonders if your panels are grossly misaligned.


----------



## Docj04

I'll have to reconnect the ps3 tomorrow to look at bd again.
I agree that the picture is soft and truly is a bit blurry. The softness is constant but the blurriness is the worst during football when the camera is from a distance

Sent from my HTC6515LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## Docj04

...perhaps this softness/ cloudiness is what people refer to when they speak of graininess with ALR screens

Sent from my HTC6515LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## nickoakdl

Docj04 said:


> So difficult to capture, but the image on the screen is very soft and even blurry.
> 
> It looks like low definition even non digital pq
> 
> Sent from my HTC6515LVW using Tapatalk


If I compare my Epson 5040 on a 133" screen to my 60" LG, the Epson makes good sources look better and bad sources look worse. Blu-rays, Netflix, and my PS4 look better on the Epson; cable tv and low quality streaming looks better on the LG.


----------



## Docj04

In terms of television, directv is considered a good source, no?
As a rule, other than viewing angle, is there typically a PQ loss with ALR screens as compared to non ALR? Maybe this screen is to blame.

Sent from my HTC6515LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

Does anyone know if Kanto Living P101 ceiling projector mount is sturdy enough to hold the 5040?
It's the only one I've found that is only 3" from the ceiling down but says Max Weight 22lb and I know the 5040 is 24.7lb. Has anyone used this one of know of any that is 3" (4"max)?


----------



## nickoakdl

Docj04 said:


> In terms of television, directv is considered a good source, no?
> As a rule, other than viewing angle, is there typically a PQ loss with ALR screens as compared to non ALR? Maybe this screen is to blame.
> 
> Sent from my HTC6515LVW using Tapatalk


Directv should be better than my Comcast, but either way, cable is so highly compressed and projectors really expose that. 

Why don't you compare a Blu-ray on both displays?


----------



## Ronman79

Docj04 said:


> Zoomed it down all the way, and it's still no comparison. I will try the settings suggested in this thread, but I'm beginning to wonder if I grossly overestimated the ability of this PJ (or any in the $3-5k range) in it's ability to reproduce anything close to a flat panel TV.
> 
> I haven't lost hope, and feel that any product that advertises HD and even pseudo-4K should render a picture better than what essentially looks like standard def/non-digital. Perhaps the Cinegrey 3D I opted for is the culprit. At this point, It's almost unacceptable.


I'd say try a traditional white screen sample in your viewing environment, and see if that changes things. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Waikis

Docj04 said:


> In terms of television, directv is considered a good source, no?
> As a rule, other than viewing angle, is there typically a PQ loss with ALR screens as compared to non ALR? Maybe this screen is to blame.
> 
> Sent from my HTC6515LVW using Tapatalk


Are you sure the focus is correct?
Also, try setting image enhancement to 3.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Dave Harper said:


> That depends on which player you use as opposed to the Xbox. I have a Philips here too and that works fine with HDR over wired. The wireless option does give you more input signal capabilities though. My thought was I'd rather have it than not, but you have to decide if that's worth the extra $300 to you. Maybe haggle with your dealer and ask for a free upgrade to the UBe version if you buy a 5040?
> 
> The XB1S does output 24Hz/Fps for movies, so it's not the 60Hz you mentioned.


I'll have to call around and see what specials people are willing to offer since Black Friday is right around the corner.



Dave Harper said:


> The wireless transmitter doesn't have to be "pointed at the front of the projector". It is wireless RF, a radio signal, so it will work as long as it's within range of the receiver that's built into the projector. It is LoS (line of sight) though so no obstacles like walls etc. should be between them.


I guess I could hang it from the ceiling. I don't have an HDMI cable at the screen wall, but do have a conduit to the projector. Too bad it won't go through a double layer of 5/8" drywall.


----------



## little_donkey

What are good/best 3d glasses for the Epson

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


----------



## Alad

MaximTre said:


> For movies only (I have the wireless version).
> Games and netflix require an hdfury device, I have the linker.


Hey guys, what settings are you using to get Movies in HDR? I haven't figured out how to do it.
XB1s - Marantz SR5011 - 5040UBe (using wireless)


----------



## Docj04

Waikis said:


> Are you sure the focus is correct?
> Also, try setting image enhancement to 3.



Unless there is some other way to focus, I've adjusted the focus many times, both with the test pattern and during games--even on pause.

I see ZERO change whatsoever when changing image enhancement to any of the settings. Should there be an obvious difference??


----------



## Aberk

What are the odds we see some BF deals on the 5040?


----------



## c.kingsley

Docj04 said:


> Unless there is some other way to focus, I've adjusted the focus many times, both with the test pattern and during games--even on pause.
> 
> I see ZERO change whatsoever when changing image enhancement to any of the settings. Should there be an obvious difference??


At a glance, it looks to me like your lens focus and/or sharpness settings are off. When you say you've adjusted it with the test pattern, do you mean you have a disc with a test pattern? To answer your second question, if your lens focus is correct, you should see obvious differences changing the image enhancement setting. At a 5, it should have considerable ringing and at a 2 it looks about right.

I wouldn't consider DirecTV, Comcast or any cable/satellite provider to be a high quality source. You'll get a more consistent, less macro-blocked signal from Netflix, sadly. If you have the ability to receive an OTA broadcast, compare the feed you see on DirecTV vs what comes in directly from the antenna. Throw in a blu-ray and make sure your focus and sharpness are dialed in. There are some AVS HD 709 patterns you can find on this site. There is a good sharpness pattern in there -- it also works great for setting the lens focus.


----------



## gnolivos

Just bring up your projector menu and look at the text. Use that to focus. Is it sharp?


----------



## barslan

c.kingsley said:


> I just purchased an HDFury Linker. I'll post a review of results of stripping HDR on UHD once it arrives.





Jackattack51 said:


> For my purposes I want to drop the 10bit color depth down to 8bit on a 4k/60/4:2:0 signal while preserving the HDR metadata. I believe this should work and I will report back tomorrow my findings when this stuff arrives.


I am looking forward to see those results. Any news?


----------



## Docj04

c.kingsley said:


> At a glance, it looks to me like your lens focus and/or sharpness settings are off. When you say you've adjusted it with the test pattern, do you mean you have a disc with a test pattern? To answer your second question, if your lens focus is correct, you should see obvious differences changing the image enhancement setting. At a 5, it should have considerable ringing and at a 2 it looks about right.
> 
> I wouldn't consider DirecTV, Comcast or any cable/satellite provider to be a high quality source. You'll get a more consistent, less macro-blocked signal from Netflix, sadly. If you have the ability to receive an OTA broadcast, compare the feed you see on DirecTV vs what comes in directly from the antenna. Throw in a blu-ray and make sure your focus and sharpness are dialed in. There are some AVS HD 709 patterns you can find on this site. There is a good sharpness pattern in there -- it also works great for setting the lens focus.


The vendor I bought it from sent me a calibration disc that I will go ahead and try. Like i said, I see zero difference switching between image enhancements settings. It's so subtle that I don't notice it and/or I don't know what I'm "trying" to see.


----------



## evoZip

Aberk said:


> What are the odds we see some BF deals on the 5040?


I'm not seeing anything so far. Kind of want to wait but also would really like to have in place by thanksgiving weekend for The Game.


----------



## evoZip

Docj04 said:


> In terms of television, directv is considered a good source, no?
> As a rule, other than viewing angle, is there typically a PQ loss with ALR screens as compared to non ALR? Maybe this screen is to blame.
> 
> Sent from my HTC6515LVW using Tapatalk


I just went through 30-some pages on a Silver Ticket screen thread...seems to me that their 1.5 ALR screen has disappointed a bunch of folks. I'd try as someone else just suggested; put up something white to view it on.


----------



## Docj04

evoZip said:


> I just went through 30-some pages on a Silver Ticket screen thread...seems to me that their 1.5 ALR screen has disappointed a bunch of folks. I'd try as someone else just suggested; put up something white to view it on.


Yea. I had read about the silver tickets and even spoke with them via email (only way to communicate with them). They told me they were scrapping their older screen material due to complaints, and that they were going to be releasing a new material this year.

That's why I went with the Elite Cinegrey 3D (went with it over the new 5D for the better half angle viewing.) 

As some have suggested, I will try a calibration disc tonight. 

*If I compare my Epson 5040 on a 133" screen to my 60" LG, the Epson makes good sources look better and bad sources look worse. Blu-rays, Netflix, and my PS4 look better on the Epson; cable tv and low quality streaming looks better on the LG.
*

This is difficult to swallow, and given that Directv is the majority of what we watch--especially sports-- I'd hope that the PJ could be calibrated and a memory profile created for this source and application to make it look legitimate.


----------



## Rimmit

Aberk said:


> What are the odds we see some BF deals on the 5040?



Low to nonexistent. You are better off talking to a dealer and seeing if they are willing to get you a better price, or throw in a mount or something.


Dealers have a lot of wiggle room on the 6040ub and can drop the price on it down to 3350-3400ish if you bargain with them, and often lower if you buy some other components from them. The 5040ub has very little wiggle room, and they are very reluctant to bargain with it any if at all.


----------



## ndabunka

JewDaddy said:


> Calling all projector experts!!!! Lol. I need your help with this one. Ok, so I've had what appears to be two dust blobs on my 5040 projector image. One in the bottom left corner that can be easily seen when watching blu-ray movies with the black bars. The other is more towards the middle right side that can really only be seen when there's nothing on the screen, i.e., no image or switching images and it goes black.
> 
> Because I didn't purchase my projector from an authorized reseller, I couldn't get it covered directly from Epson under warranty. I went to an authorized repair center and at first they cleaned out the lens and that didn't work. They contacted Epson directly and were able to get an entire lens, optical engine and new motherboard covered under warranty. All of that got replaced and I was so excited to get my projector home. To my disbelief, one of the two dust blobs is still there. Luckily it's not the one on the bottom that was easy to spot. It's the other one that can really only be seen on a blank dark image.
> 
> So, here's my question. If the lens, optical engine and motherboard have been replaced, where is this spot coming from???? And it's not a new spot either. It's the same one from before which means it couldn't have been in the lens or optical engine. Here's a pic showing what it looks like. The only thing I can think of at this point is that it might have something to do with the bulb. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's your SCREEN. Try projecting onto a different surface


----------



## ndabunka

little_donkey said:


> What are good/best 3d glasses for the Epson
> 
> Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


I bought the Active3D and they work VERY well. Others have picked up the Samsung5100's & used successfully but others picked up Samsung5150s & had problems with those

I believe that there is a separate thread for the 3D glasses


----------



## abs

But he's had one blob disappear when it got cleaned out? 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Anyone owned a 6020 & upgraded to the 6040,if so is the pq a lot better on the 6040.I currently have a 6020 & got upgrade fever(need to take my meds)I live in the middle of no where, so they don't sell the pro version on the net where can I find them.I check here couldn't find any projectors fore sale.


----------



## talon95

ndabunka said:


> It's your SCREEN. Try projecting onto a different surface


No that's a dust blob. Not the screen. The screen wouldn't have a spot like that with a black image. Spots on the screen show up with a bright image.


----------



## Dave Harper

Alad said:


> Hey guys, what settings are you using to get Movies in HDR? I haven't figured out how to do it.
> 
> XB1s - Marantz SR5011 - 5040UBe (using wireless)



Mine as just plug and play with a pioneer elite vsx-90 receiver using the input 1 on the wireless transmitter. I would check your receiver's capabilities and menu settings and also the cables you're using.


----------



## sgranger45

*Dialing in HDR Settings*

Hi guys,

I've had my 5040UBe for a few weeks now but I am still very much a rookie when it comes to calibrating all this stuff. I even went back and read some basic HDR documentation related to the color range and digital photography to catch up.

I'm very happy with the overall projector and image quality. Everything looks pretty awesome from NFL games (World series was amazing) to movies and TV shows. For a while, I was struggling to see a big difference between good 1080p pictures and UHD but after getting the settings right, I can definitely tell the difference. 

Now I am working on UHD SDR and HDR. I have followed the guidelines for setting it up (it's by no means an "automatic" adjustment) but am struggling.

My source is Netflix "Chef's Table" in UHD (I looked up on line which shows had HDR). It is going through a new Yamaha RX-A1050 A/V receiver and using the wireless HDMI output. I stream through the new Roku Ultra (that I have to reboot every time I watch Netflix to get UHD content to show up - separate and well documented issue).

I am attaching a few screen shots but basically when I go to Signal > advanced settings, I start with HDMI Video Range as Auto, Color Space at BT.2020, Dynamic Range at HDR Mode 1 and Image Processing at Fine. I set Color Mode as Natural and Image Enhancement at 3. Every other image adjustment is at the factory default.

This produces an image that is a bit blown out and saturated with red too much. When I move to HDR Mode 2, this dials back but also gets darker. (images _2004 and _2006 are with HDR Mode 1, image _2010 is with HDR Mode 2)

I also get conflicting info on the Info > Projector Info screen as it still says Color Format: BT.709 SDR (although I believe this is incorrect as I think it's definitely and HDR picture).

Any help and guidance is appreciated to suggest optimizations to my pic.


----------



## k3nnis

Hi All,

With the 5040 wired version can we get 4K and also 4K HDR working with the Xbox One S? Youtube app, netflix app and also UHD BD.

Thanks,
K.


----------



## c.kingsley

talon95 said:


> No that's a dust blob. Not the screen. The screen wouldn't have a spot like that with a black image. Spots on the screen show up with a bright image.


If his optical block and lens have been replaced where is the dust blob? This anomaly is in the same position as before he had those replaced, so a dust blob seems unlikely...

The lamp or its assembly may be the source, but it would have to be some kind of hot spot on the bulb. I suspect a foreign substance on the lamp would reject or absorb light over an area, making it darker, not brighter which is opposite of what we are seeing.


----------



## c.kingsley

sgranger45 said:


> I am attaching a few screen shots but basically when I go to Signal > advanced settings, I start with HDMI Video Range as Auto, Color Space at BT.2020, Dynamic Range at HDR Mode 1 and Image Processing at Fine. I set Color Mode as Natural and Image Enhancement at 3. Every other image adjustment is at the factory default.


Set your color space to Auto. It looks like you are forcing BT2020 and your input is Rec709. What you see on the Info screen is what you are feeding the projector.


----------



## twcl

@sgranger45: From the images it looks like you trying to display SDR material as HDR. This gives you the red and orange color of peoples skin (the CIE color information is just wrong). By setting it to BT.2020 at the projector you force the error. Guess you're used to an LCD or Plasma before? If you've never seen a calibrated screen, one usually looks for too bright colors. 
Sorry no experience with the Roku, but first you need to get the right color space to the Epson. If you can't find any settings, check if the Yamaha is messing it up, by directly connecting the Roku to the Epson.
@k3nnis: Not so far, facing the same problem here. Just hoping on Microsoft to update the Xbox (join the petition, its on the microsoft board). As far as the Samsung player had the same issue in the beginning I'm optimistic, that it will get fixed soon.


----------



## k3nnis

twcl said:


> @sgranger45: From the images it looks like you trying to display SDR material as HDR. This gives you the red and orange color of peoples skin (the CIE color information is just wrong). By setting it to BT.2020 at the projector you force the error. Guess you're used to an LCD or Plasma before? If you've never seen a calibrated screen, one usually looks for too bright colors.
> Sorry no experience with the Roku, but first you need to get the right color space to the Epson. If you can't find any settings, check if the Yamaha is messing it up, by directly connecting the Roku to the Epson.
> @k3nnis: Not so far, facing the same problem here. Just hoping on Microsoft to update the Xbox (join the petition, its on the microsoft board). As far as the Samsung player had the same issue in the beginning I'm optimistic, that it will get fixed soon.


ok thanks. So they would need the xbox to display at 4:2:0 10 bit 24Hz? for it to work with the Epson wired?


----------



## dvdwilly3

sgranger45 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I've had my 5040UBe for a few weeks now but I am still very much a rookie when it comes to calibrating all this stuff. I even went back and read some basic HDR documentation related to the color range and digital photography to catch up.
> 
> I'm very happy with the overall projector and image quality. Everything looks pretty awesome from NFL games (World series was amazing) to movies and TV shows. For a while, I was struggling to see a big difference between good 1080p pictures and UHD but after getting the settings right, I can definitely tell the difference.
> 
> Now I am working on UHD SDR and HDR. I have followed the guidelines for setting it up (it's by no means an "automatic" adjustment) but am struggling.
> 
> My source is Netflix "Chef's Table" in UHD (I looked up on line which shows had HDR). It is going through a new Yamaha RX-A1050 A/V receiver and using the wireless HDMI output. I stream through the new Roku Ultra (that I have to reboot every time I watch Netflix to get UHD content to show up - separate and well documented issue).
> 
> I am attaching a few screen shots but basically when I go to Signal > advanced settings, I start with HDMI Video Range as Auto, Color Space at BT.2020, Dynamic Range at HDR Mode 1 and Image Processing at Fine. I set Color Mode as Natural and Image Enhancement at 3. Every other image adjustment is at the factory default.
> 
> This produces an image that is a bit blown out and saturated with red too much. When I move to HDR Mode 2, this dials back but also gets darker. (images _2004 and _2006 are with HDR Mode 1, image _2010 is with HDR Mode 2)
> 
> I also get conflicting info on the Info > Projector Info screen as it still says Color Format: BT.709 SDR (although I believe this is incorrect as I think it's definitely and HDR picture).
> 
> Any help and guidance is appreciated to suggest optimizations to my pic.


Search for *5040/6040 Memory Profiles* for sample setting and screen shots...


----------



## aaranddeeman

sgranger45 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I've had my 5040UBe for a few weeks now but I am still very much a rookie when it comes to calibrating all this stuff. I even went back and read some basic HDR documentation related to the color range and digital photography to catch up.
> 
> I'm very happy with the overall projector and image quality. Everything looks pretty awesome from NFL games (World series was amazing) to movies and TV shows. For a while, I was struggling to see a big difference between good 1080p pictures and UHD but after getting the settings right, I can definitely tell the difference.
> 
> Now I am working on UHD SDR and HDR. I have followed the guidelines for setting it up (it's by no means an "automatic" adjustment) but am struggling.
> 
> My source is Netflix "Chef's Table" in UHD (I looked up on line which shows had HDR). It is going through a new Yamaha RX-A1050 A/V receiver and using the wireless HDMI output. I stream through the new Roku Ultra (that I have to reboot every time I watch Netflix to get UHD content to show up - separate and well documented issue).
> 
> I am attaching a few screen shots but basically when I go to Signal > advanced settings, I start with HDMI Video Range as Auto, Color Space at BT.2020, Dynamic Range at HDR Mode 1 and Image Processing at Fine. I set Color Mode as Natural and Image Enhancement at 3. Every other image adjustment is at the factory default.
> 
> This produces an image that is a bit blown out and saturated with red too much. When I move to HDR Mode 2, this dials back but also gets darker. (images _2004 and _2006 are with HDR Mode 1, image _2010 is with HDR Mode 2)
> 
> I also get conflicting info on the Info > Projector Info screen as it still says Color Format: BT.709 SDR (although I believe this is incorrect as I think it's definitely and HDR picture).
> 
> Any help and guidance is appreciated to suggest optimizations to my pic.





dvdwilly3 said:


> Search for *5040/6040 Memory Profiles* for sample setting and screen shots...


Or simply follow this link


----------



## aaranddeeman

dvdwilly3 said:


> Search for *5040/6040 Memory Profiles* for sample setting and screen shots...


If I may suggest, please add link to that thread into your signature..


----------



## Smarty-pants

sddp said:


> Does anyone know if Kanto Living P101 ceiling projector mount is sturdy enough to hold the 5040?
> It's the only one I've found that is only 3" from the ceiling down but says Max Weight 22lb and I know the 5040 is 24.7lb. Has anyone used this one of know of any that is 3" (4"max)?


Never heard of that mount, but the "Chief" brand of mounts are known to be high quality and their low profile versions
should put the top of your pj about 3" from the ceiling (give or take maybe a quarter inch depending on your adjustments).
I just measured mine and it's about 3 1/8" from the ceiling.


----------



## Edllguy

For those in the "know" could someone please tell me which projectors competes with the 5040ub on price point and feature set?

Thanks


----------



## aaranddeeman

Edllguy said:


> For those in the "know" could someone please tell me which projectors competes with the 5040ub on price point and feature set?
> 
> Thanks


None


----------



## Jackattack51

barslan said:


> I am looking forward to see those results. Any news?


Sorry for the delay. Preliminary results were pretty positive. My signal chain was PS4 Pro -> Denon x4200w -> 5040UB

Earlier in the thread a couple of people wanted confirmation that the 5040UB could display 1080P HDR out of the box and the first attachment is proof of that. No work had to be done to achieve it. I just started up uncharted 4 and it asked me if I wanted HDR. I said yes and it did the rest. 

The second picture was a bit harder. Now the signal chain was PS4 Pro -> HD Fury Linker -> Denon x4200w -> 5040UB. In the linker I set the profile to scale down from a 4K/60/4:2:0/10b signal to a matching one but at 8bits. And since the linker was advertising to the ps4 that it could handle more, the PS4 allowed me to toggle HDR on at 4K. This was also achieved earlier in the thread by someone with a lumagen pro as well. The second attachment is proof of that. 

The only issue occurred when switching modes, such as toggling HDR in game or quitting back to the menu which forced HDR off. What occurred resembled HDMI handshaking issues where the signal would take about 10 seconds to lock, but in some cases it gave up before it finished. In those instances I hit a reset button on the Linker which forced another handshake and things settled out. I'm going to use it a bit more tonight before bed and see how it goes.

Ask me any questions and I'll do my best to answer them.


----------



## Edllguy

aaranddeeman said:


> None


Is this projector that good? My knowledge is limited about projectors but I have heard lots of good things about Epson. I want to recommend this projector to my condo board as a replacement for the outdated current projector they have in the shared facilities condo theater.

Thanks


----------



## c.kingsley

Jackattack51 said:


> The second picture was a bit harder. Now the signal chain was PS4 Pro -> HD Fury Linker -> Denon x4200w -> 5040UB.


I just got my Linker today as well. I did some fiddling trying to get 4K 4:2:2 BT2020 SDR at 24Hz (I used EDID 18) from a Philips UHD player. Unfortunately, I don't have a laptop at home today so I was running back and forth to my desktop to change settings on the Linker. I was not able to get BT2020 SDR. I was getting 4K 4:2:2 BT709 SDR. Can you see if you have the same experience? I confess its getting late and I may not be understanding what the output should be. I thought you could retain the WCG (BT2020) while stripping HDR.

In the Linker's settings, it defaults to HDCP 1.4. If I set it manually to 2.2, I have handshake issues every few seconds.


----------



## dvdwilly3

ndabunka said:


> I bought the Active3D and they work VERY well. Others have picked up the Samsung5100's & used successfully but others picked up Samsung5150s & had problems with those
> 
> I believe that there is a separate thread for the 3D glasses


Ditto on the Active 3D. I also have the Samsungs, and I think that the Active work better.

A bit more expensive, but worth it.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Edllguy said:


> Is this projector that good? My knowledge is limited about projectors but I have heard lots of good things about Epson. I want to recommend this projector to my condo board as a replacement for the outdated current projector they have in the shared facilities condo theater.
> 
> Thanks


You asked "price point and feature set" and that was the answer.
Now for your application, do you really need this PJ. That question only you can answer.
May be a simple 1080P would work.


----------



## dvdwilly3

gnolivos said:


> I just got a call from Epson support stating that they have finally nailed down the cause of the 'freeze' issue I (and at least one other member here) have been having with the 5040. They said a firmware fix is in the works and we should be seeing it in an upcoming version.
> 
> I am very impressed with their responsiveness and willingness to get these issues resolved.


I emailed the guy that I had worked with at Epson, and he said...

"They [engineering] said is was a combination of settings, but did not get into specifics. We've been told that we should be getting a firmware update sometime later this month or early next month. [emphasis added] 
As soon as the update is released, I will send you an Email with a link to download the firmware update."


----------



## EveryGlenn17

Jackattack51 said:


> barslan said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking forward to see those results. Any news?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the delay. Preliminary results were pretty positive. My signal chain was PS4 Pro -> Denon x4200w -> 5040UB
> 
> Earlier in the thread a couple of people wanted confirmation that the 5040UB could display 1080P HDR out of the box and the first attachment is proof of that. No work had to be done to achieve it. I just started up uncharted 4 and it asked me if I wanted HDR. I said yes and it did the rest.
> 
> The second picture was a bit harder. Now the signal chain was PS4 Pro -> HD Fury Linker -> Denon x4200w -> 5040UB. In the linker I set the profile to scale down from a 4K/60/4:2:0/10b signal to a matching one but at 8bits. And since the linker was advertising to the ps4 that it could handle more, the PS4 allowed me to toggle HDR on at 4K. This was also achieved earlier in the thread by someone with a lumagen pro as well. The second attachment is proof of that.
> 
> The only issue occurred when switching modes, such as toggling HDR in game or quitting back to the menu which forced HDR off. What occurred resembled HDMI handshaking issues where the signal would take about 10 seconds to lock, but in some cases it gave up before it finished. In those instances I hit a reset button on the Linker which forced another handshake and things settled out. I'm going to use it a bit more tonight before bed and see how it goes.
> 
> Ask me any questions and I'll do my best to answer them.
Click to expand...

How was the quality with the 8 bit hdr? Was it a noticeable upgrade from non hdr? I'm trying to decide if I should get an HD fury linker or just go with 1080p upscale /hdr...


----------



## ndabunka

Edllguy said:


> Is this projector that good? My knowledge is limited about projectors but I have heard lots of good things about Epson. I want to recommend this projector to my condo board as a replacement for the outdated current projector they have in the shared facilities condo theater.
> 
> Thanks


WAY overkill as this supports 4K and it is unlikely that you would need that for your target audience. How large is the space you are trying to "light up" with a projector? What size screen is it diagonally?

What you probably would want would be a VERY bright 1080p projector around this same price point or possibly even a lower cost model


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> I just got my Linker today as well. I did some fiddling trying to get 4K 4:2:2 BT2020 SDR at 24Hz (I used EDID 18) from a Philips UHD player. Unfortunately, I don't have a laptop at home today so I was running back and forth to my desktop to change settings on the Linker. I was not able to get BT2020 SDR. I was getting 4K 4:2:2 BT709 SDR. Can you see if you have the same experience? I confess its getting late and I may not be understanding what the output should be. I thought you could retain the WCG (BT2020) while stripping HDR.
> 
> In the Linker's settings, it defaults to HDCP 1.4. If I set it manually to 2.2, I have handshake issues every few seconds.


Have you tried putting the Linker between the Denon and the 5040? I ordered one too and should be getting it in a few days, so hopefully you figure it out before I get mine, haha!


----------



## k3nnis

Can someone test the linker with a Xbox one S and the 5040 wired? Does it playback UHD 4K Blu ray and also Netflix and YouTube 4K HDR?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

i have a large learning curve in front of me as i ordered a c6 pro. Mr Harper. i do hope Mr kingsley gets 2020 working before dec 1. i stated before i was able to get the philips to output 2020 with out hdr i was wrong it was late and i needed to rest for work. what i did find out the projector can be locked up by changing source say a ruko playing 4k with extended range set on and than switching to philips 4k blue ray locked me out of normal range. picture was washed out dim with no pop.as posted above not like a 4k tv.this is not a major problem as i was able to get hdr back bright and bold as ever. also side note i find th ruko will output 2020 with hdr on amazon only the others netflex vudo... 709. 709 looks good if you set extended range on and super white on with the ruko.


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> Have you tried putting the Linker between the Denon and the 5040? I ordered one too and should be getting it in a few days, so hopefully you figure it out before I get mine, haha!


I tried both ways, same result. I feel like I need to hook it up live with a laptop to see what is really going on, all the back and forth wasn't helping at all. It was much brighter on 709/SDR but I thought it would be outputting BT2020 SDR.

One thing I noticed is when I set to EDID 18 (4k 4:2:2 BT2020 24p), and fire up the Philips, it states that the display doesn't support HDR. When I leave the default EDID on, that doesn't happen. So the custom EDID is being relayed to the input source. I thought this thing was going to be able to strip HDR on the output while still advertising full capability to the input device.

At any rate, it has a ton of settings. It isn't a plug and play device, it requires some guess and check. I don't feel comfortable rendering a verdict until I can run it directly from a laptop.


----------



## MississippiMan

Docj04 said:


> ...perhaps this softness/ cloudiness is what people refer to when they speak of graininess with ALR screens





Ronman79 said:


> I'd say try a traditional white screen sample in your viewing environment, and see if that changes things.


I didn't see where Docj04 listed his working screen size, but I have a 5040 running a 181" + borderless image onto a Painted ALR Drywall surface. The surface has been smoothed to a exceptional level, and while the ALR Paint is a very dark Gray shade, because of it's components (Silver-Pearl-Polyurethane) and being sprayed via HVLP, it exhibits no "Graininess while having appreciable gain. But most telling is the surface's ability to render a extremely dynamic image with a almost 3D-like depth even at 181" diagonal. I estimate I'm getting 24 ft Lambert, which is blazingly bright in a dark environment.

Here are some revealing screen shots.










A shot in ambient light _and _under Flash...










Same shot w/no Flash in low ambient light - straight on...










This shot reveals the screen size in 16:9 mode...










and a few "In the Dark" examples....



















Sorry...no Football, but I can state irrevocably that Satellite imagery is even more intensely bright.

The coating used can also be sprayed directly onto any smooth, conventional Screen material (Silver Ticket / Carl's Flexi-White) or any other smooth, white material, so Docj04, just shoot me a PM and I'll set you up with the method / materials required.



Smarty-pants said:


> Never heard of that mount, but the "Chief" brand of mounts are known to be high quality and their low profile versions
> should put the top of your pj about 3" from the ceiling (give or take maybe a quarter inch depending on your adjustments).
> I just measured mine and it's about 3 1/8" from the ceiling.


I have been an advocate of the Chief Mounts (RPA-Dedicated) for quite a while, and when using the Dedicated Stamped Plates, and a ultra-short Drop Tube (4" long PVC)through the ceiling I could get the distance down to 3.5". Smarty, to get 3 1/8" you must of screwed the main component directly to the Ceiling, but even with that, the current Universal Mounting arms are much less desirable and of a higher profile than the older "Channel" arms of the RPA-O.

Since Chief has not yet released a RPA-Dedicated "Stamped Plate" for the 5040, I decided to switch to the Peerless Universal (w/Channel arms & Cam Adjust.) and managed 3.5" again....










...but that was because I had access above to mount a Peerless ACC-570 Ceiling Plate.
And it was absolutely necessary because I had to mount the PJ directly over the entry Doors. I wound up with 1.5" to spare ! 










Smarty, can you shoot an image of the Mount / ceiling? That would help others see what was / how it was done.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

twcl said:


> @*k3nnis* : Not so far, facing the same problem here. Just hoping on Microsoft to update the Xbox (join the petition, its on the microsoft board). As far as the Samsung player had the same issue in the beginning I'm optimistic, that it will get fixed soon.


Do you have a link? I looked around and didn't see anything.


----------



## gec5741

I knew I shouldn't of looked in this thread! I have an Epson 5030ub currently for going on 2 years now. I just replaced the bulb. is this projector that much better? Not that I'm able to do an upgrade now anyway but just curious if one would be worth it. I still love and use my 5030 all the time! 


Thanks


----------



## galewarrior

Enjoying all the Fury and linker posts!
I'm gonna pull the trigger. Is there any increased input lag or processing time with the wireless unit?


----------



## Ashma

Anyone try the Google Chromecast Ultra with the Epson? Any quirks/compatibility issues?
Trying to decide amongst the various streamer solutions for 4k. Thanks


----------



## dotorg

gec5741 said:


> I knew I shouldn't of looked in this thread! I have an Epson 5030ub currently for going on 2 years now. I just replaced the bulb. is this projector that much better? Not that I'm able to do an upgrade now anyway but just curious if one would be worth it. I still love and use my 5030 all the time!
> 
> 
> Thanks


I owned both, and as much as I think the 5040 is fantastic, I'd wholeheartedly say no. The picture is better, but its also MUCH bigger, MUCH heavier, and louder. And expensive. You're paying $3k to add faux-K and lens memory, broadly speaking. That's a lot of coin for a feature you clearly didn't need before and a feature that -- while beautiful -- is right at the cusp of being unnecessary at most viewing size/distances.

I replaced mine because the buyer of my old house wanted the 5030 with it, otherwise I would've been very happy keeping it. I just got lucky that it sold after the point the 5040 was available.


----------



## dotorg

Ashma said:


> Anyone try the Google Chromecast Ultra with the Epson? Any quirks/compatibility issues?
> Trying to decide amongst the various streamer solutions for 4k. Thanks


I replied about it a few pages back. It only outputs 4k 60fps, no matter what the input is, so 1080P is upscaled by the Chromecast, not the Epson (and looks worse as a result), and you get a lot of frame jitter on 24fps sources because it can't do a consistent conversion from 24 to 60fps.

Oh, and no HDR, because it can't run at lower framerates. 

I get better quality for non-4K sources (which is most) by playing them back through my Xbox. The Chromecast is just a benefit for 4K non-HDR sources.


----------



## Ashma

dotorg said:


> I replied about it a few pages back. It only outputs 4k 60fps, no matter what the input is, so 1080P is upscaled by the Chromecast, not the Epson (and looks worse as a result), and you get a lot of frame jitter on 24fps sources because it can't do a consistent conversion from 24 to 60fps.
> 
> Oh, and no HDR, because it can't run at lower framerates.
> 
> I get better quality for non-4K sources (which is most) by playing them back through my Xbox. The Chromecast is just a benefit for 4K non-HDR sources.


Thanks dotorg. I guess I'll look at Roku or the Firestick instead.


----------



## Pacific Breeze

ROKU + HDR

Hi guys,

Need some help summarizing this HDR issue. (I've read all 2600 posts but that was before I got the projector and looking back several pages I haven't found the info again)

I have the 5040UB and ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT. However, I have not been successful getting HDR to work from Roku which is my primary source. I recently upgraded from the Roku 4 to the Roku 4 Ultra which does have HDR support, as well as running the latest firmware on both. I tried connecting directly with a Redmere cable and also an Amazon cable (no receiver in the pathway), both rated for 18G. Still no HDR on either YouTube or Vudu. The 4K signals look incredible but I would love to figure out HDR too. Do I need to get a UHD Player? HD Fury?

Links to previously posted solutions are welcomed!


----------



## Whopper80

Jackattack51 said:


> Sorry for the delay. Preliminary results were pretty positive. My signal chain was PS4 Pro -> Denon x4200w -> 5040UB
> 
> Earlier in the thread a couple of people wanted confirmation that the 5040UB could display 1080P HDR out of the box and the first attachment is proof of that. No work had to be done to achieve it. I just started up uncharted 4 and it asked me if I wanted HDR. I said yes and it did the rest.
> 
> The second picture was a bit harder. Now the signal chain was PS4 Pro -> HD Fury Linker -> Denon x4200w -> 5040UB. In the linker I set the profile to scale down from a 4K/60/4:2:0/10b signal to a matching one but at 8bits. And since the linker was advertising to the ps4 that it could handle more, the PS4 allowed me to toggle HDR on at 4K. This was also achieved earlier in the thread by someone with a lumagen pro as well. The second attachment is proof of that.
> 
> The only issue occurred when switching modes, such as toggling HDR in game or quitting back to the menu which forced HDR off. What occurred resembled HDMI handshaking issues where the signal would take about 10 seconds to lock, but in some cases it gave up before it finished. In those instances I hit a reset button on the Linker which forced another handshake and things settled out. I'm going to use it a bit more tonight before bed and see how it goes.
> 
> Ask me any questions and I'll do my best to answer them.



Thanks for this post! Glad to hear that works! I had some HDR issues and happened to order the Denon 4200W yesterday so that gives me hope that changing my AV receiver will get me 1080p HDR


----------



## avsBuddy

Pacific Breeze said:


> ROKU + HDR
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Need some help summarizing this HDR issue. (I've read all 2600 posts but that was before I got the projector and looking back several pages I haven't found the info again)
> 
> I have the 5040UB and ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT. However, I have not been successful getting HDR to work from Roku which is my primary source. I recently upgraded from the Roku 4 to the Roku 4 Ultra which does have HDR support, as well as running the latest firmware on both. I tried connecting directly with a Redmere cable and also an Amazon cable (no receiver in the pathway), both rated for 18G. Still no HDR on either YouTube or Vudu. The 4K signals look incredible but I would love to figure out HDR too. Do I need to get a UHD Player? HD Fury?
> 
> Links to previously posted solutions are welcomed!


Unfortunately 5040 can only handle HDR using 24p HDR-10 signal in 4:2:2, but not in 4:4:4 or 4:2:0. See if there is a way to force Roku to use HDR format that is compatible with Epson.


----------



## Ronman79

MississippiMan said:


> Same shot w/no Flash in low ambient light - straight on...


I've seen the room, and it's VERY impressive!!!


RM


----------



## hatlesschimp

I cant get a HDR signal at all.

Does the projector need an update? Has anyone updated their projectors firmware and what was the process?

Im rolling with the Xbox One S to watch movies with at the moment, I've gone direct into the projector with the HDMI and tried both HDMI ports with no luck.

Im really not sure what I'm doing wrong or missing. Cheers lads.


----------



## k3nnis

I have a feeling xbox one S needs an update for it to work in HDR on the epson. If your epson is the wireless one I think it may work...

Is 1080P Blu Ray playback on the Xbox one S as good as a standalone BD player?


----------



## Jackattack51

c.kingsley said:


> I just got my Linker today as well. I did some fiddling trying to get 4K 4:2:2 BT2020 SDR at 24Hz (I used EDID 18) from a Philips UHD player. Unfortunately, I don't have a laptop at home today so I was running back and forth to my desktop to change settings on the Linker. I was not able to get BT2020 SDR. I was getting 4K 4:2:2 BT709 SDR. Can you see if you have the same experience? I confess its getting late and I may not be understanding what the output should be. I thought you could retain the WCG (BT2020) while stripping HDR.
> 
> In the Linker's settings, it defaults to HDCP 1.4. If I set it manually to 2.2, I have handshake issues every few seconds.


I thought you could too. I'll try and test that out tonight. Also, thanks for mentioning that bit about HDCP. I believe I set mine to 2.2 and the handshake is having a tough time. Maybe that will fix it!



EveryGlenn17 said:


> How was the quality with the 8 bit hdr? Was it a noticeable upgrade from non hdr? I'm trying to decide if I should get an HD fury linker or just go with 1080p upscale /hdr...


I really can't say yet. Nothing is calibrated and even then I have no idea what I'm doing with HDR. I'm going to dive into all of that this weekend. For what it's worth, my initial impressions were very positive and HDR was enabled.



galewarrior said:


> Enjoying all the Fury and linker posts!
> I'm gonna pull the trigger. Is there any increased input lag or processing time with the wireless unit?


I don't have a scientific way to measure it but I'll be checking into it this weekend. I'll report back. I use the resources here: http://tft.vanity.dk



Whopper80 said:


> Thanks for this post! Glad to hear that works! I had some HDR issues and happened to order the Denon 4200W yesterday so that gives me hope that changing my AV receiver will get me 1080p HDR


Yep! I can't speak for the rest of your equipment, but the 4200w played perfectly with HDR at 1080P (and at 4k with the linker). It seems like a crazy good deal right now.


----------



## hatlesschimp

k3nnis said:


> I have a feeling xbox one S needs an update for it to work in HDR on the epson. If your epson is the wireless one I think it may work...
> 
> Is 1080P Blu Ray playback on the Xbox one S as good as a standalone BD player?


I had the Samsung K8500 but it had issues too. Now I hear its been patched and works. For me the 1080p to 4k was more prominent with the JVC X7000. I struggle to notice the difference with the Epson 9300.


----------



## c.kingsley

hatlesschimp said:


> I cant get a HDR signal at all.
> Does the projector need an update? Has anyone updated their projectors firmware and what was the process?


This is a problem with the XB1S. It is expecting an 18gbps signal chain and the 6040/5040 only does 10.2gbps. It could be corrected with a software update by Microsoft, but I wouldn't hold out hope for that to occur quickly. In theory an HDFury Linker or Integral should make this work. As I'm still in the testing phase with my own Linker, I'm not ready to advise anyone to shell out $150 for it just yet. I have my laptop today so hopefully I will have some time to test it again this evening.


----------



## SALadder22FF

*Explanation Needed.*



avsBuddy said:


> Unfortunately 5040 can only handle HDR using *24p HDR-10 signal in 4:2:2, but not in 4:4:4 or 4:2:0*. See if there is a way to force Roku to use HDR format that is compatible with Epson.


Could you explain exactly what the differences here are to me? I've been reading this whole thread and am not sure what the difference is. I plan on using mine to mostly watch DirecTV, game with Xbox One and watch Netflix/Youtube through Roku. I would like HDR and best picture possible, but not sure if I'm going to really mind if it's only a little better with certain settings. Also, I plan on running everything through Marantz 6011 and on to a Screen Innovations 120" Black Diamond Zero Edge screen. 1.4 gain.


----------



## k3nnis

hatlesschimp said:


> I had the Samsung K8500 but it had issues too. Now I hear its been patched and works. For me the 1080p to 4k was more prominent with the JVC X7000. I struggle to notice the difference with the Epson 9300.


Ok thanks. I'm planning to buy both Xbox One S and also PS4 Pro. Is that overkill lol...

Hopefully the linker will solve the Xbox One S HDR issue.


----------



## c.kingsley

Alright, I have some results from testing on the Linker. You can remove HDR while retaining 4k / 12bit / 4:2:2 / 24p. You can also fool the sending device into believing your display is capable of 4k60p by changing the EDID and then using the scaler to convert all 4k60p to 4k60p 8bit 4:2:0 for the display. I don't have an XB1S to test, but this should enable HDR output from it.

To disable HDR:

Open the HDFury application. 
Select the HDR/AVI tab.
Clear/delete the HDR metadata in the box.
Check the box to Enable Custom HDR.

Enabling the custom (blank) HDR metadata reverts to BT2020 SDR.

First impressions:
It seems to be beneficial on Oblivion but not on Warcraft. I've mentioned earlier that Warcraft UHD looked very good overall in HDR. In order to take advantage of this capability it will require two memory settings on the 5040, one for HDR and one for SDR. And as far as I can tell, changing the setting to toggle HDR requires the GUI on a PC. It may be possible to toggle this setting with one of the macro key combinations, but I haven't investigated that yet. The device is a little finicky. It increases the HDMI sync/lock time by about 10 seconds but I could get used to it. I think the benefit of stripping HDR is going to depend on the movie you're watching. I didn't have time to perform another calibration of my Digital Cinema input, so all of these photos use the same settings I have been using for HDR. The stripped versions clearly need some adjustment in the brightness/contrast department. One of the biggest things I noticed was the mountains behind Medivh. Look at the detail in the background on HDR vs SDR. Although the picture is clearly brighter in SDR, I'm not sure it looks better universally.

Part of me is starting to wonder if we've just become accustomed to that SDR look and there isn't anything wrong with HDR other than our own perception.


----------



## aaranddeeman

^^^ Very nice @c.kingsley

I had the similar thought and mentioned before. It is same like getting used to D65 calibrated image after constantly watching the blue pushed TV.


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks for posting your findings  can someone please test with Xbox one S?  would like to see if I can playback UHD Blu ray with HDR and also games with HDR 4K. And YouTube and Netflix as well with HDR 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

Smarty-pants said:


> Never heard of that mount, but the "Chief" brand of mounts are known to be high quality and their low profile versions
> should put the top of your pj about 3" from the ceiling (give or take maybe a quarter inch depending on your adjustments).
> I just measured mine and it's about 3 1/8" from the ceiling.




Thanks, 


Are you referring to the Chief RPMA-US Elite Universal Ceiling Mount?


----------



## covsound1

c.kingsley said:


> Alright, I have some results from testing on the Linker. You can remove HDR while retaining 4k / 12bit / 4:2:2 / 24p. You can also fool the sending device into believing your display is capable of 4k60p by changing the EDID and then using the scaler to convert all 4k60p to 4k60p 8bit 4:2:0 for the display. I don't have an XB1S to test, but this should enable HDR output from it.
> 
> To disable HDR:
> 
> Open the HDFury application.
> Select the HDR/AVI tab.
> Clear/delete the HDR metadata in the box.
> Check the box to Enable Custom HDR.
> 
> Enabling the custom (blank) HDR metadata reverts to BT2020 SDR.
> 
> First impressions:
> It seems to be beneficial on Oblivion but not on Warcraft. I've mentioned earlier that Warcraft UHD looked very good overall in HDR. In order to take advantage of this capability it will require two memory settings on the 5040, one for HDR and one for SDR. And as far as I can tell, changing the setting to toggle HDR requires the GUI on a PC. It may be possible to toggle this setting with one of the macro key combinations, but I haven't investigated that yet. The device is a little finicky. It increases the HDMI sync/lock time by about 10 seconds but I could get used to it. I think the benefit of stripping HDR is going to depend on the movie you're watching. I didn't have time to perform another calibration of my Digital Cinema input, so all of these photos use the same settings I have been using for HDR. The stripped versions clearly need some adjustment in the brightness/contrast department. One of the biggest things I noticed was the mountains behind Medivh. Look at the detail in the background on HDR vs SDR. Although the picture is clearly brighter in SDR, I'm not sure it looks better universally.
> 
> Part of me is starting to wonder if we've just become accustomed to that SDR look and there isn't anything wrong with HDR other than our own perception.


thank you for this! my thoughts are like yours getting accustom to what this pj gives you.not a fan of ninja turtles i purchase the 4k hdr disc last night after reading a review.as always really needing sleep i watched the whole movie. the hdr really shows what this pj gives you as a gift. i cal digital cinema and natural for best picture and switched back and forth.digital cinema won. even though natural had a little more hdr pop (watching with more ambient light) with cinema just took you breath away.


----------



## Ronman79

c.kingsley said:


> Alright, I have some results from testing on the Linker. You can remove HDR while retaining 4k / 12bit / 4:2:2 / 24p. You can also fool the sending device into believing your display is capable of 4k60p by changing the EDID and then using the scaler to convert all 4k60p to 4k60p 8bit 4:2:0 for the display. I don't have an XB1S to test, but this should enable HDR output from it.
> 
> To disable HDR:
> 
> Open the HDFury application.
> Select the HDR/AVI tab.
> Clear/delete the HDR metadata in the box.
> Check the box to Enable Custom HDR.
> 
> Enabling the custom (blank) HDR metadata reverts to BT2020 SDR.
> 
> First impressions:
> It seems to be beneficial on Oblivion but not on Warcraft. I've mentioned earlier that Warcraft UHD looked very good overall in HDR. In order to take advantage of this capability it will require two memory settings on the 5040, one for HDR and one for SDR. And as far as I can tell, changing the setting to toggle HDR requires the GUI on a PC. It may be possible to toggle this setting with one of the macro key combinations, but I haven't investigated that yet. The device is a little finicky. It increases the HDMI sync/lock time by about 10 seconds but I could get used to it. I think the benefit of stripping HDR is going to depend on the movie you're watching. I didn't have time to perform another calibration of my Digital Cinema input, so all of these photos use the same settings I have been using for HDR. The stripped versions clearly need some adjustment in the brightness/contrast department. One of the biggest things I noticed was the mountains behind Medivh. Look at the detail in the background on HDR vs SDR. Although the picture is clearly brighter in SDR, I'm not sure it looks better universally.
> 
> Part of me is starting to wonder if we've just become accustomed to that SDR look and there isn't anything wrong with HDR other than our own perception.


SDR is clearly brighter, but in most all of them, especially after the first, HDR is clearly more detailed. Good pop, and good pics! Thanks. 



Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Titanfall 2 trailer on the 6040ub / 9300.


----------



## GizmoSprocket

Pacific Breeze said:


> ROKU + HDR
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> 
> 
> Need some help summarizing this HDR issue. (I've read all 2600 posts but that was before I got the projector and looking back several pages I haven't found the info again)
> 
> 
> 
> I have the 5040UB and ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT. However, I have not been successful getting HDR to work from Roku which is my primary source. I recently upgraded from the Roku 4 to the Roku 4 Ultra which does have HDR support, as well as running the latest firmware on both. I tried connecting directly with a Redmere cable and also an Amazon cable (no receiver in the pathway), both rated for 18G. Still no HDR on either YouTube or Vudu. The 4K signals look incredible but I would love to figure out HDR too. Do I need to get a UHD Player? HD Fury?
> 
> 
> 
> Links to previously posted solutions are welcomed!




I have been able to get it to work from roku's Amazon app mostly... and rarely from Roku's Netflix app. I often have to change from 4K HDR tv to 1080p and back... sometimes physically rebooting the Roku. It is not usable and I plan on opening an issue with Roku about it later this week or early next week. Meanwhile it works very reliably from my Philip 4K player and Amazon Fire 4K. This is with two different 18gbs cables, one being a MP Luxe active 50 foot.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## galewarrior

c.kingsley said:


> Alright, I have some results from testing on the Linker. You can remove HDR while retaining 4k / 12bit / 4:2:2 / 24p. You can also fool the sending device into believing your display is capable of 4k60p by changing the EDID and then using the scaler to convert all 4k60p to 4k60p 8bit 4:2:0 for the display. I don't have an XB1S to test, but this should enable HDR output from it.
> 
> To disable HDR:
> 
> Open the HDFury application.
> Select the HDR/AVI tab.
> Clear/delete the HDR metadata in the box.
> Check the box to Enable Custom HDR.
> 
> Enabling the custom (blank) HDR metadata reverts to BT2020 SDR.
> 
> First impressions:
> It seems to be beneficial on Oblivion but not on Warcraft. I've mentioned earlier that Warcraft UHD looked very good overall in HDR. In order to take advantage of this capability it will require two memory settings on the 5040, one for HDR and one for SDR. And as far as I can tell, changing the setting to toggle HDR requires the GUI on a PC. It may be possible to toggle this setting with one of the macro key combinations, but I haven't investigated that yet. The device is a little finicky. It increases the HDMI sync/lock time by about 10 seconds but I could get used to it. I think the benefit of stripping HDR is going to depend on the movie you're watching. I didn't have time to perform another calibration of my Digital Cinema input, so all of these photos use the same settings I have been using for HDR. The stripped versions clearly need some adjustment in the brightness/contrast department. One of the biggest things I noticed was the mountains behind Medivh. Look at the detail in the background on HDR vs SDR. Although the picture is clearly brighter in SDR, I'm not sure it looks better universally.
> 
> Part of me is starting to wonder if we've just become accustomed to that SDR look and there isn't anything wrong with HDR other than our own perception.


Great info, thanks for sharing! Have you been able to achieve 4K/60hz 4.2.0 at 10 bit? Can the wireless unit do it?


----------



## rjguk

GizmoSprocket said:


> Meanwhile it works very reliably from my Philip 4K player and Amazon Fire 4K. This is with two different 18gbs cables, one being a MP Luxe active 50 foot.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


You are getting HDR from the AFTV4K? Is that via Netflix, Prime Video or something else? More details please! (Prepares for crushing disappointment due to misinterpreting previous discussion...)


----------



## MaximTre

You need the Linker (or similiar) or the wireless unit to get hdr from Xbox (I have have both wireless and Linker, did a lot of testing).
Linker for full hdr compatbility (movies + games)
Wireless for hdr movies only.


----------



## MaximTre

c.kingsley said:


> To disable HDR:
> 
> Open the HDFury application.
> Select the HDR/AVI tab.
> Clear/delete the HDR metadata in the box.
> Check the box to Enable Custom HDR.
> 
> Enabling the custom (blank) HDR metadata reverts to BT2020 SDR.


As stated in the Linker thread by HDFury, you can also use edid 10, so you won't need a pc after the first setup.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2514537-hdfury-linker-15.html#post48059201


----------



## Snoogleheimer

c.kingsley said:


> Part of me is starting to wonder if we've just become accustomed to that SDR look and there isn't anything wrong with HDR other than our own perception.


Well, from the images you posted, I definitely prefer HDR.


----------



## Waikis

c.kingsley said:


> Alright, I have some results from testing on the Linker. You can remove HDR while retaining 4k / 12bit / 4:2:2 / 24p. You can also fool the sending device into believing your display is capable of 4k60p by changing the EDID and then using the scaler to convert all 4k60p to 4k60p 8bit 4:2:0 for the display. I don't have an XB1S to test, but this should enable HDR output from it.
> 
> To disable HDR:
> 
> Open the HDFury application.
> Select the HDR/AVI tab.
> Clear/delete the HDR metadata in the box.
> Check the box to Enable Custom HDR.
> 
> Enabling the custom (blank) HDR metadata reverts to BT2020 SDR.
> 
> First impressions:
> It seems to be beneficial on Oblivion but not on Warcraft. I've mentioned earlier that Warcraft UHD looked very good overall in HDR. In order to take advantage of this capability it will require two memory settings on the 5040, one for HDR and one for SDR. And as far as I can tell, changing the setting to toggle HDR requires the GUI on a PC. It may be possible to toggle this setting with one of the macro key combinations, but I haven't investigated that yet. The device is a little finicky. It increases the HDMI sync/lock time by about 10 seconds but I could get used to it. I think the benefit of stripping HDR is going to depend on the movie you're watching. I didn't have time to perform another calibration of my Digital Cinema input, so all of these photos use the same settings I have been using for HDR. The stripped versions clearly need some adjustment in the brightness/contrast department. One of the biggest things I noticed was the mountains behind Medivh. Look at the detail in the background on HDR vs SDR. Although the picture is clearly brighter in SDR, I'm not sure it looks better universally.
> 
> Part of me is starting to wonder if we've just become accustomed to that SDR look and there isn't anything wrong with HDR other than our own perception.


So, I just tried this as well with my ps4 pro + linker.
When the HDR is stripped, it's basically the same effect as going to epson's menu and selecting SDR when there's an HDR input. Basically, the image looks super washed out.

Am I doing something wrong here?


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> You need the Linker (or similiar) or the wireless unit to get hdr from Xbox (I have have both wireless and Linker, did a lot of testing).
> 
> Linker for full hdr compatbility (movies + games)
> 
> Wireless for hdr movies only.




Are you saying 5040 wired and linker I can get full HDR for movies and games? For both Xbox one S and PS4 pro?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> Alright, I have some results from testing on the Linker. You can remove HDR while retaining 4k / 12bit / 4:2:2 / 24p. You can also fool the sending device into believing your display is capable of 4k60p by changing the EDID and then using the scaler to convert all 4k60p to 4k60p 8bit 4:2:0 for the display. I don't have an XB1S to test, but this should enable HDR output from it.
> 
> To disable HDR:
> 
> Open the HDFury application.
> Select the HDR/AVI tab.
> Clear/delete the HDR metadata in the box.
> Check the box to Enable Custom HDR.
> 
> Enabling the custom (blank) HDR metadata reverts to BT2020 SDR.
> 
> First impressions:
> It seems to be beneficial on Oblivion but not on Warcraft. I've mentioned earlier that Warcraft UHD looked very good overall in HDR. In order to take advantage of this capability it will require two memory settings on the 5040, one for HDR and one for SDR. And as far as I can tell, changing the setting to toggle HDR requires the GUI on a PC. It may be possible to toggle this setting with one of the macro key combinations, but I haven't investigated that yet. The device is a little finicky. It increases the HDMI sync/lock time by about 10 seconds but I could get used to it. I think the benefit of stripping HDR is going to depend on the movie you're watching. I didn't have time to perform another calibration of my Digital Cinema input, so all of these photos use the same settings I have been using for HDR. The stripped versions clearly need some adjustment in the brightness/contrast department. One of the biggest things I noticed was the mountains behind Medivh. Look at the detail in the background on HDR vs SDR. Although the picture is clearly brighter in SDR, I'm not sure it looks better universally.
> 
> Part of me is starting to wonder if we've just become accustomed to that SDR look and there isn't anything wrong with HDR other than our own perception.



HDR definitely looks better, but as you said you didn't have time to calibrate. It looks like the SDR ones do need some brightness and contrast calibration., at minimum. 



Waikis said:


> So, I just tried this as well with my ps4 pro + linker.
> 
> 
> When the HDR is stripped, it's basically the same effect as going to epson's menu and selecting SDR when there's an HDR input. Basically, the image looks super washed out.
> 
> 
> 
> Am I doing something wrong here?



Did you recalibrate ?


----------



## MaximTre

k3nnis said:


> Are you saying 5040 wired and linker I can get full HDR for movies and games? For both Xbox one S and PS4 pro?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Xbox S needs the Linker with the wired connection or it won't enable hdr at all. 
Ps4 pro doesn't, as it recognizes the limited hdmi port and adapts to it. On the epson sdr is 2160p/4:2:0/60hz/8bit, hdr is 1080p/4:4:4/60hz/12bit (games, don't forget the Pro isn't a bd uhd player). You can use the Linker on the pro to get a 2160p/4:2:0/60hz/8bit/HDR, but with 8bit color you'll get banding.


----------



## MaximTre

Waikis said:


> So, I just tried this as well with my ps4 pro + linker.
> When the HDR is stripped, it's basically the same effect as going to epson's menu and selecting SDR when there's an HDR input. Basically, the image looks super washed out.
> 
> Am I doing something wrong here?


It shouldn't be wahsed out, it should be a regular sdr image, definitely not as when you select the wrong range in the projector settings.


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> Xbox S needs the Linker with the wired connection or it won't enable hdr at all.
> 
> Ps4 pro doesn't, as it recognizes the limited hdmi port and adapts to it. On the epson sdr is 2160p/4:2:0/60hz/8bit, hdr is 1080p/4:4:4/60hz/12bit (games, don't forget the Pro isn't a bd uhd player). You can use the Linker on the pro to get a 2160p/4:2:0/60hz/8bit/HDR, but with 8bit color you'll get banding.




Thanks for the info. So do you suggest getting wireless 5040 ? Or take the risk with wired 5040 and get linker and hope PS4 pro has a patch to make it work with 4K HDR in games?

Or play PS4 pro at 1080P with HDR and upscale to 4K using Epson?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Waikis

Dave Harper said:


> HDR definitely looks better, but as you said you didn't have time to calibrate. It looks like the SDR ones do need some brightness and contrast calibration., at minimum.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you recalibrate ?


Not calibrated yet, but my point is that the linker seems to merely turn off the HDR flag which is the same effect as selecting SDR in the projector.
So if you already have a player which is compatible with epson's hdr restriction (such as ps4 pro), there really is no need to get a linker.

Maybe i just have the wrong expectation of what the linker can do.



MaximTre said:


> As stated in the Linker thread by HDFury, you can also use edid 10, so you won't need a pc after the first setup.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2514537-hdfury-linker-15.html#post48059201


I tried this and ps4 doesnt detect hdr with this edid. So it seems that all it's doing is it is telling the ps4 that it supports wcg but not bt2020. However, ps4 only allows wcg when hdr is turned on. So the only way to strip hdr that i found is to also leave the hdr id blank.


----------



## MaximTre

Waikis said:


> Not calibrated yet, but my point is that the linker seems to merely turn off the HDR flag which is the same effect as selecting SDR in the projector.
> So if you already have a player which is compatible with epson's hdr restriction (such as ps4 pro), there really is no need to get a linker.
> 
> Maybe i just have the wrong expectation of what the linker can do.


The Linker is fine, the Epson can't convert hdr to sdr or sdr to hdr. You can force a color range, but the epson is not converting anything, just using the wrong color range (which will lead to errors in the image)

To check if you're getting the right signal from the Linker, check the info page on the epson:
bt2020/hdr2 -> regular hdr
rec709/sdr -> regular sdr
br2020/sdr -> what the epson show using the Linker with correct settings


----------



## Waikis

MaximTre said:


> The Linker is fine, the Epson can't convert hdr to sdr or sdr to hdr. You can force a color range, but the epson is not converting anything, just using the wrong color range (which will lead to errors in the image)
> 
> To check if you're getting the right signal from the Linker, check the info page on the epson:
> bt2020/hdr2 -> regular hdr
> rec709/sdr -> regular sdr
> br2020/sdr -> what the epson show using the Linker with correct settings


Yep bt2020 sdr is what i'm getting. With the game that i'm using (uncharted 4), the image looks like it has this greyish filter on it.


----------



## dotorg

c.kingsley said:


> This is a problem with the XB1S. It is expecting an 18gbps signal chain and the 6040/5040 only does 10.2gbps. It could be corrected with a software update by Microsoft, but I wouldn't hold out hope for that to occur quickly. In theory an HDFury Linker or Integral should make this work. As I'm still in the testing phase with my own Linker, I'm not ready to advise anyone to shell out $150 for it just yet. I have my laptop today so hopefully I will have some time to test it again this evening.


Its a more subtle problem than that. Its plausible, although I think unlikely, they'll fix the UHD player to properly output 4:2:0. Currently it mandates 4:4:4, which is stupid because the disks themselves are 4:2:0. But there's a tiny handful of 4K HDR-compatible devices that have the problem... its hard to imagine a PM bubbling that issue up as a priority over everything else they've got on their backlog. 

For other apps (streaming apps, games, etc), its really not plausible they'll support it. Those run at the native framerate of your system (either 50fps or 60fps), and requires 10bpp 4:2:0 to enable HDR. For a slew of reasons, you can be certain they'll never allow the framerate to be set lower (locked to 30fps, for example)... all of its output resolutions are 60fps, and it won't go below that when its in a mode using its compositing engine. That's an API level problem -- there's no reporting from an app or game back to the OS about what the target framerate is, so Windows 10 can't say "hey, they don't need 60fps, let me allow this to go back to 30fps so 10bit HDR works". And if they were going to add it, it'd be a new capability in the core Windows stack, and *those* are even harder to get done.


----------



## c.kingsley

Waikis said:


> I tried this and ps4 doesnt detect hdr with this edid. So it seems that all it's doing is it is telling the ps4 that it supports wcg but not bt2020. However, ps4 only allows wcg when hdr is turned on. So the only way to strip hdr that i found is to also leave the hdr id blank.


I had the same experience. Any of the EDIDs that do not contain HDR (even BT2020 EDIDs) caused my Philips to revert to BT709. This shows up on the Epson info screen and in the HDFury control panel.


----------



## c.kingsley

Waikis said:


> Yep bt2020 sdr is what i'm getting. With the game that i'm using (uncharted 4), the image looks like it has this greyish filter on it.


Mine looked similar. It looked better if I flipped over to Cinema where I've done a basic calibration for blu ray. I think it needs some adjustment. I haven't been able to get my UHD patterns to display yet because the Philips doesn't support the .mp4 or .ts encoding of the samples I have.


----------



## MaximTre

I tried the edid 10 setting with my samsung, and it works in getting rid of hdr.
But as sdr is way worse than hdr, I reverted to normal state.

I did some testing with PS4 Pro and Xbox One S and it's right, hdr it's not detected, so you have to use the default edid setting (or the first one if I can remember) and get rid of hdr flag on the fly (but you need a pc for that, not very convinient. A bluetooth adapter it's on the way, no ETA but it's coming).


----------



## gec5741

dotorg said:


> I owned both, and as much as I think the 5040 is fantastic, I'd wholeheartedly say no. The picture is better, but its also MUCH bigger, MUCH heavier, and louder. And expensive. You're paying $3k to add faux-K and lens memory, broadly speaking. That's a lot of coin for a feature you clearly didn't need before and a feature that -- while beautiful -- is right at the cusp of being unnecessary at most viewing size/distances.
> 
> I replaced mine because the buyer of my old house wanted the 5030 with it, otherwise I would've been very happy keeping it. I just got lucky that it sold after the point the 5040 was available.




Thanks for this. I defiantly can't do an upgrade now anyway so I'm glad to hear I'm not missing all THAT much. Lens memory would of been really nice back when I was trying to decide on the screen but now I have a fixed 16:9 screen anyway so in order to make use of it I'd have to upgrade that as well to a nice big scope screen and I just don't have the money. I just changed the bulb in my 5030 and I'm still loving it in my room so for now i'm happy. But like most of us here that are freaks in this hobby knowing something is out there that is better for around the same price as what we paid originally is hard to take 
But I guess that will always be the case and just comes with the territory! Maybe in another 2 years I'll be ready for an upgrade.


As for the size and noise of this 5040 I didn't realize it was that much bigger? And I thought I read that it was quite compared to the 5030. I thought I had heard they fixed the iris noise and fan noise issues that the 5030 had?


----------



## dotorg

gec5741 said:


> As for the size and noise of this 5040 I didn't realize it was that much bigger? And I thought I read that it was quite compared to the 5030. I thought I had heard they fixed the iris noise and fan noise issues that the 5030 had?


I was really shocked when I took it out of the box how big it was -- and the 5030 was big to begin with. The 5030 is 18x15x6" (approx) and 18lbs. The 5040 is closer to 21x18x7", and is 24lbs, so its about 3" bigger each way in footprint, and an inch taller. The 5030 seemed "big". The 5040 seems "massive" -- enough so that everyone who had been in the old home theater and the new commented on it when they first saw it. 

The specs on how loud it is suggest it should be quieter, but I suspect that depends where you're sitting relative to it. Both my old house and new house had it mounted directly above the primary seating location. The 5030 was about six inches lower relative to your head when sitting there. The 5040, however, on "mid" or "low" has about the same audible fan noise as the 5030 had on high, at that location. Its possible there's a difference in where sound is projected from it -- out the top vs out the front, or something. In my case, its quite a bit louder. 

The iris, I'd say, is about the same, but I tended to run both with it off because I don't like how the brightness fades up and down on sudden brightness changes. I play a lot of games on it, and that can be very distracting.


----------



## gnolivos

I've never owned a 5030 but my 5040 is very quiet in low and medium lamp. High lamp is loud but I would never use that in my blacked out room. Way too bright. 
I come from an ultra quiet Sanyo z2000. The king of silence. . The Epson is not as quiet but I still think it is inaudible when playing movies and it sits 4-5 feet over my head.


----------



## Smarty-pants

sddp said:


> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Are you referring to the Chief RPMA-US Elite Universal Ceiling Mount?


As @MississippiMan suggested in another post, I do have mine mounted directly to the ceiling to get a very low profile mount.
My particular mount is several years old now, and on the box is says the model is "RSAU".
I'm sure their newer ones are different now, but I have seen several dealers refer to the Chief mounts as high quality and
a great option for low profile mounting. Just make sure to find out which model is best for you before you buy.
If ordering from a dealer, just ask them specifics before you buy.


----------



## Smarty-pants

QUESTION:
On the Epson models, regarding the LAN/ethernet port, is it a necessity to have that connected to your home network,
or is it basically just used for periodical firmware updates and nothing else?
If I buy one, I really don't want to have to go though redoing my existing cabling, and can just hooking up a temporary
ethernet cable when necessary wouldn't be a big deal.
TIA


----------



## rogermoore123

Good news from projector central on firmware update: The disadvantage of setting HDR to one of its alternative modes with Epson's current firmware is that the projectors will then use that mode for all input signals, including SDR content, which messes up SDR image color and contrast. To avoid that happening, you need to manually switch the Dynamic Range setting back and forth between Auto and HDR 1, 3, or 4 as needed. Epson is also planning a firmware update that will let you change the HDR mode for the Auto setting to be any of the HDR modes. Once you change the HDR setting for Auto to user, you won't need to change the Dynamic Range setting manually when switching between HDR and SDR input.


----------



## Whopper80

Whopper80 said:


> Thanks for this post! Glad to hear that works! I had some HDR issues and happened to order the Denon 4200W yesterday so that gives me hope that changing my AV receiver will get me 1080p HDR


I received the Denon 4200W yesterday, and while HDR works fine now, the GUI overlay for navigating the Internet Radio menus does not show on the EPSON. Is that normal? I can get all the other overlays like Setup or Info etc. 

When i connect the Denon to my old BenQ 1070 i get the overlay. Looking at the signal info from the BenQ i get a 1080p 60Hz YUV signal. Is that yet another signal that the EPSON cant read?

If somebody with the same Denon and Epson could check that for me that would be appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## MaximTre

rogermoore123 said:


> Good news from projector central on firmware update: The disadvantage of setting HDR to one of its alternative modes with Epson's current firmware is that the projectors will then use that mode for all input signals, including SDR content, which messes up SDR image color and contrast. To avoid that happening, you need to manually switch the Dynamic Range setting back and forth between Auto and HDR 1, 3, or 4 as needed. Epson is also planning a firmware update that will let you change the HDR mode for the Auto setting to be any of the HDR modes. Once you change the HDR setting for Auto to user, you won't need to change the Dynamic Range setting manually when switching between HDR and SDR input.


SO HAPPY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Really needed feature, I was literally going to write epson about that!!!!


----------



## dvdwilly3

Smarty-pants said:


> QUESTION:
> On the Epson models, regarding the LAN/ethernet port, is it a necessity to have that connected to your home network,
> or is it basically just used for periodical firmware updates and nothing else?
> If I buy one, I really don't want to have to go though redoing my existing cabling, and can just hooking up a temporary
> ethernet cable when necessary wouldn't be a big deal.
> TIA


My 6040UB is not wired into my home network and works just fine.

For firmware updates, I load the file onto a thumb drive and plug it into the USB jack on the projector, and use that for the update.


----------



## dholmes54

I've been looking at the 6040,I currently have the 6020,will I notice a big improvement with the 6040 up converting my blu-rays to 2160? Im not planning on getting ultra HD blu-ray yet just want to know if the 6040 that much better than the 6020 thxs


----------



## evoZip

gec5741 said:


> As for the size and noise of this 5040 I didn't realize it was that much bigger? And I thought I read that it was quite compared to the 5030. I thought I had heard they fixed the iris noise and fan noise issues that the 5030 had?


Well, in the other reply to this, the user is rounding up for the 5040, and down for the 5030...40 is right about 2" wider and deeper.

I'm not simply replying to point that out though...ironically, I just went through your build thread. I am wanting to build (into an existing wall) pretty much the exact thing you did for your component shelves. Originally wanted to make the top shelf of it big enough to fit the 5040, but I really like the shelf you have your 30 on (added bonus reduces throw distance for me). 

So, I bring up the dimensions because I want to know how close are the feet of your 30 to the edges of that shelf? I'm wondering if it's too small for the 5040. Hopefully not! Thanks, and awesome media room!


----------



## gec5741

Hmm that's a good question. I want to say off hand with the back foot of my 5030 an inch or 2 from the edge ( like to keep it as far back without danger of it falling off) I'd probably say I have a good 3 inches or so of play from the front feet to edge of the shelf. Let me see if I can look up the dimensions of the shelf I used. I can also look tonight first hand and get definite measurements. The other benefit to that shelf you would have over having the pj in the wall is no heat issues.



EDIT: This the exact shelf I have in my room. https://www.amazon.ca/OmniMount-ECSB-Component-Shelf-Accessories/dp/B000EGI7V4

P.S. thanks for the kind words on my build. It's been a labor of love for sure!


----------



## dvdwilly3

dholmes54 said:


> I've been looking at the 6040,I currently have the 6020,will I notice a big improvement with the 6040 up converting my blu-rays to 2160? Im not planning on getting ultra HD blu-ray yet just want to know if the 6040 that much better than the 6020 thxs


Follow the link in my signature for some sample screen shots.

I have a few others in UHD.

I did not have the 6020; I had the Sony VPL-VW50.


----------



## jakowako

dholmes54 said:


> I've been looking at the 6040,I currently have the 6020,will I notice a big improvement with the 6040 up converting my blu-rays to 2160? Im not planning on getting ultra HD blu-ray yet just want to know if the 6040 that much better than the 6020 thxs



dholmes54 - I'm in the same boat as you. I currently have the 6020 and am seriously considering the 6040. In fact, I had a chance to demo a 6040 using Star Wars: The Force Awakens at 1080p enhanced. In my opinion, it was a noticeable difference in may ways. First, the contrast and black level was much improved over the 6020. Next, the sharpness of the image at 1080p looked improved over the 6020 and even more when e-shift was enabled to up convert the movie. Finally, the lens memory feature was a huge feature for me. I want to go with a cinema wide screen and this feature allows me to do it at an affordable price.

I to am not planning on purchasing any 4K Ultra HD movies yet. After reading these forums and the issues with HDR, HDMI on this unit only handling 10.2 in stead of 18, and more, to me it is not worth the headache for, in my opinion, a marginal upgrade. I, and I think you, would be very happy for the foreseeable future sticking with up converting your 1080 discs and holding out down the road when a true 4K projector is available in the $3-4K price range.

Again, just one person's opinion. I hope more can chime in


----------



## Dave Harper

dotorg said:


> Its a more subtle problem than that. Its plausible, although I think unlikely, they'll fix the UHD player to properly output 4:2:0. *Currently it mandates 4:4:4, which is stupid because the disks themselves are 4:2:0. *But there's a tiny handful of 4K HDR-compatible devices that have the problem... its hard to imagine a PM bubbling that issue up as a priority over everything else they've got on their backlog...........



I believe that's because the XB1S outputs in RGB, not YCbCr component. Maybe there's a limitation with this.


----------



## therecanbeonly1

Does the Epson (I have the 9300) Auto-update or notify if there is firmware update available if it has a network connection or do you have to manually download and update?


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> Mine looked similar. It looked better if I flipped over to Cinema where I've done a basic calibration for blu ray. I think it needs some adjustment. I haven't been able to get my UHD patterns to display yet because the Philips doesn't support the .mp4 or .ts encoding of the samples I have.



There's also some UHD and HD patterns hidden on Sony and Columbia Pictures Blu-ray Discs (both UHD and HD) that you can use for basic setup of colors and black (brightness) and white (contrast) levels. 

From the main menu of the movie, press or select "7669" (spells Sony on a telephone keypad) and then "enter". 

I bought the same UHD patterns as you and have a Philips too, so I feel your pain.


----------



## Waikis

MaximTre said:


> I tried the edid 10 setting with my samsung, and it works in getting rid of hdr.
> But as sdr is way worse than hdr, I reverted to normal state.
> 
> I did some testing with PS4 Pro and Xbox One S and it's right, hdr it's not detected, so you have to use the default edid setting (or the first one if I can remember) and get rid of hdr flag on the fly (but you need a pc for that, not very convinient. A bluetooth adapter it's on the way, no ETA but it's coming).


Have you tried comparing a stripped hdr vs hdr signal with sdr selection in epson?


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs everyone,living in the middle of no where I don't have a chance to compare projectors,I would have to drive 200 miles round trip to Louisville and then they probably won't have a Epson so most things I buy are blind buys


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> From the main menu of the movie, press or select "7669" (spells Sony on a telephone keypad) and then "enter".


That's a nice trick.


----------



## WynsWrld98

gnolivos said:


> I've never owned a 5030 but my 5040 is very quiet in low and medium lamp. High lamp is loud but I would never use that in my blacked out room. Way too bright.
> I come from an ultra quiet Sanyo z2000. The king of silence. . The Epson is not as quiet but I still think it is inaudible when playing movies and it sits 4-5 feet over my head.


As the lamp ages you might be using High lamp power (unless you have a high gain screen).


----------



## Pacific Breeze

Smarty-pants said:


> QUESTION:
> On the Epson models, regarding the LAN/ethernet port, is it a necessity to have that connected to your home network,
> or is it basically just used for periodical firmware updates and nothing else?
> If I buy one, I really don't want to have to go though redoing my existing cabling, and can just hooking up a temporary
> ethernet cable when necessary wouldn't be a big deal.
> TIA


The ethernet does not allow for firmware updates - even with the cable networked those are still performed exclusively via USB. There are apps that you can use to send the images to the Epson using the network cable. If you don't need that there's no need to add new wires.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Pacific Breeze said:


> The ethernet does not allow for firmware updates - even with the cable networked those are still performed exclusively via USB. There are apps that you can use to send the images to the Epson using the network cable. If you don't need that there's no need to add new wires.


Wow that seems like an almost useless feature then.
Seems odd to include something like that while at the same time not putting in an 18Gbps chip.
Thanks for the info.


----------



## GizmoSprocket

rjguk said:


> You are getting HDR from the AFTV4K? Is that via Netflix, Prime Video or something else? More details please! (Prepares for crushing disappointment due to misinterpreting previous discussion...)




A good go-to stream for me is the Amazon Original TV show, "Mozart in the Jungle," Season 2, EV 1). I can get the AFTV4k to render in HDR on my 5040. The FireTV routes through a Denon AVR-X6300h receiver. The Epson is the 2nd Monitor (not zone 2, but 2nd monitor. My primary display output on the Denon goes to an LG 75UH8500 LCD. I have my harmony turning the LG off before bringing up the Epson. This avoids HDCP issues running to both displays. The cables between source components and the AVR are Ultra Clarity Cables (aka UCC), which have been good to me re 4k/HDR. YMMV. I am currently using a Monoprice Luxe 50ft active cable from the AVR to the Epson and I am using a UCC to the LG panel from the AVR.

So, the LG panel has WebOS 3.0 and native support for HDR through VuDu, Amazon and Netflix... it works well. I like some of the features on the FireTV (x-Ray for movies) and the additional channels on Roku (Screambox, Shudder, etc... which Amazon carries the content for if I wanted to pay for a new subscription, which I don't. They cant link to existing accounts for premium services they sell... or wont. That is for a different soap-box, though).

I had been so disappointed by the reliability of Netflix on Roku to support HDR. Like many on this forum, it disappears and I need to reboot, sometimes disconnect it... sacrifice a virgin to a blood god, etc... to get HDR to come back on the Netflix app on Roku. To me, the reliability is laughably bad. It is unusable and bothers me because HDR support is exactly why I got the Ultra. I have two- actually... the other is on my 65UH9500 upstairs in the family room... mostly for the other apps like Shudder and Screambox. 

So I recall being surprised when I tried the FireTV's Netflix app and saw it supported HDR more reliably than the Roku app. Again, this is my first week with the PJ mounted and my assessment is very preliminary... 

I have been considering going to a fiber hdmi cable for $300 between the AVR and the Epson... just to remove doubt from that signal path being an issue... but the Luxe has been working well enough for now.

As far as the AVR, I don't have any picture enhancements on. The built in overlay for the AVR is enabled and the output displays are all auto. 

I hope this helps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Forza Horizon & Xbox one S on the 9300 / 6040ub. Attached is some signal info from Epson regarding the popular 4k uhd disc players.


----------



## GizmoSprocket

k3nnis said:


> Thanks for the info. So do you suggest getting wireless 5040 ? Or take the risk with wired 5040 and get linker and hope PS4 pro has a patch to make it work with 4K HDR in games?
> 
> Or play PS4 pro at 1080P with HDR and upscale to 4K using Epson?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I have the 5040UBe. I am pretty sure that the wireless transmitter is 1080p only... no HDR. If you want to use HDR, you need to use the single HDCP 2.2 port on the projector itself. This is in the manual, but it is written in a way that isn't perfectly clear... I recall a capability chart, but I might be remembering the manual wrong.

Update- I am wrong. I checked the manual section "Supported Video Display Formats" and it does have a chart and some UHD formats are indeed supported by the transmitter.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## mercuryyy

Can someone please shed some more info about the PS4 Pro, ONLY supporting HDR 2K due to the limited 10.2 Gbps HDMI port input the 5040 has.

1. Will the 5040UBe support 18 Gbps and did anybody get it actually working with PS4 Pro HDR 4K support showing on PS4 Pro setting "Supporting HDR 2K/4k"
2. If the port is HDCP 2.2 why does it not support 18 Gbps? and will epson be able to fix this with a framware update?
3. What other projectors support 18 Gbps? Isnt the DLA-RS500 or DLA-X750R supporting 18 gps according to their specs and what i'v read online "The DLA-X750R produces exquisite quality images with JVC's exclusive 4K e-shift4. It accepts native 4K 60P (4:4:4) content through Full Speed 18Gbps HDMI/HDCP 2.2 compatible inputs"

4. And Finally WHY WOULD EPSON come with a NEW 4K MODEL calming FULL HDR and not SUPPORT FULL HDR!!!!

Im feeling some serious buyers remorse here!


----------



## ac388

Pacific Breeze said:


> The ethernet does not allow for firmware updates - even with the cable networked those are still performed exclusively via USB. There are apps that you can use to send the images to the Epson using the network cable. If you don't need that there's no need to add new wires.


What about if I am using one of those Wifi dongle on the USB ? Will it work that way for Firmware upgrade ?


----------



## dvdwilly3

ac388 said:


> What about if I am using one of those Wifi dongle on the USB ? Will it work that way for Firmware upgrade ?


I don't think so. When I did the 105 upgrade on mine, the actual upgrade file was within a zipped file. When you unzip the zipped file, there are several files in several folders. And, once unzipped, that file was about 2 subfolders down.

The pj would not recognize the file at that level. It would not deal with it until I moved the file up to the root directory of the USB drive. As soon as I did that, it launched into thenupdate routine without any drama.


----------



## dvdwilly3

WynsWrld98 said:


> As the lamp ages you might be using High lamp power (unless you have a high gain screen).


Do you (or anyone) know whether the fan goes into high speed mode because you have selected High mode or is it temperature based?


----------



## chiltonj

Agree. I went from a 6030 to 6040 and the 40 is quieter imho in eco mode. With about 1200 hours on the 30, I was using normal mode or whatever it's called on the 30 more often as the display was getting darker. Still quiet enough to not bother me at all 4-5 feet away with sound on. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## rjguk

GizmoSprocket said:


> A good go-to stream for me is the Amazon Original TV show, "Mozart in the Jungle," Season 2, EV 1). I can get the AFTV4k to render in HDR on my 5040. The FireTV routes through a Denon AVR-X6300h receiver. The Epson is the 2nd Monitor (not zone 2, but 2nd monitor. My primary display output on the Denon goes to an LG 75UH8500 LCD. I have my harmony turning the LG off before bringing up the Epson. This avoids HDCP issues running to both displays. The cables between source components and the AVR are Ultra Clarity Cables (aka UCC), which have been good to me re 4k/HDR. YMMV. I am currently using a Monoprice Luxe 50ft active cable from the AVR to the Epson and I am using a UCC to the LG panel from the AVR.


Thanks for the info. I just tried Mozart in the Jungle, the UHD version, and it played perfectly on the Epson. In 8-bit SDR.
In my case the chain is the AFTV4k to a Yamaha 779 (with video mode 'direct' and 4k mode 1 set) and then a 16-foot Amazon Basics Hi-Speed HDMI cable to the PJ. In your case I wonder whether the presence of the HDR-capable LG somehow enables the HDR from the AFTV4k and that capability persists even when it is switched through to the Epson.

I'm puzzled, and after relentlessly reading the forums I've lost track a bit - can anyone else confirm Mozart in the Jungle reporting HDR via the AFTV4k? (Does it say HDR on the Amazon selection as well as on the Epson info screen?)


----------



## ana_moo_ana

I asked this question before but didnt get conclusive answer. Using Philips player with auto output mode it forces the output to be 4k, this will make the 4k Enhancement feature shaded in the Epson even for the 1080p content. Are Philips user doing the same? Im afraid Im not taking advantage of the 4K enhancement feature of the Epson, tried to switch between them but couldnt notice difference in PQ.


----------



## chiltonj

ana_moo_ana said:


> I asked this question before but didnt get conclusive answer. Using Philips player with auto output mode it forces the output to be 4k, this will make the 4k Enhancement feature shaded in the Epson even for the 1080p content. Are Philips user doing the same? Im afraid Im not taking advantage of the 4K enhancement feature of the Epson, tried to switch between them but couldnt notice difference in PQ.


Yeppers, I am doing this. I have 3 ways to handle 4k. Philips, AVR or projector. Philips on auto/4k, AVR direct and projector on 4k enhancement with DirectTV content. 
Also, slightly different that you question, this came from Epson support:
Connect your image source to the projector's HDMI1 port. In the Signal menu, select Advanced and set the Color Space and Dynamic Range settings to Auto.
"The projector will automatically detect and display compatible signals only. If you don't see an image, check the projector's Info menu to make sure you are sending a compatible 4K HDR signal to the projector. If the Color Format section of the Info menu does not display 4K BT.2020 and HDR, the signal is not compatible."

I start with auto as suggested but change depending on the content. 
I personally think hdr1, 2 etc vs sdr is subjective. I liked hdr1 with star trek beyond, but liked sdr over hdr in mad max fury road.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## dotorg

Dave Harper said:


> I believe that's because the XB1S outputs in RGB, not YCbCr component. Maybe there's a limitation with this.


I don't think that'd be the issue, because 4:4:4 is only required in the UHD BluRay player. Games run 4:2:0. If I had to guess, having been involved in those sort of decision making processes before, someone looked at the HDMI spec and locked it to the "best" available at that framerate, to reduce the QA testing matrix and create the greatest software compatibility, and didn't know or understand the implications for device compatibility.


----------



## dotorg

hatlesschimp said:


>


Well, that shows why the XB1S works for HDR UHD disks via WirelessHD and not via the HDMI port -- the 24fps 4:4:4 support. 

I find it baffling that a product manager at Epson looked at that compatibility chart and said "yeah, that's good for the market, lets go with that".


----------



## hatlesschimp

dotorg said:


> Well, that shows why the XB1S works for HDR UHD disks via WirelessHD and not via the HDMI port -- the 24fps 4:4:4 support.
> 
> I find it baffling that a product manager at Epson looked at that compatibility chart and said "yeah, that's good for the market, lets go with that".


Surely it can be patched. It makes no sense!


----------



## Threefiddie

because they are going to come out with another projector that will do it. watch it happen. just makes no sense to buy a half baked product as much as I would love to have one and replace my sony hw50es, it just doesn't fully support the xbox one s, ps4 pro, or pc. Can't buy something personally that doesn't work with my equipment unless i run it all at lower res. still want one though.


----------



## dotorg

hatlesschimp said:


> Surely it can be patched. It makes no sense!


Its a hardware limitation of the HDMI chipset, it can't be patched. 

The crux of the problem is that the HDMI standard has gotten too "big" -- the possible combination of supported formats is too big, and no one is willing to pay to test combinations that are functionally equivalent of other ones. So you get HDMI sources like the XB1, Chromecast and a bunch of the UHD players saying "this is the specifics I'm going to lock my output to -- it'll work for any media I may be playing". Its not a problem with most displays because a display, by its very nature, is going to have to connect to a slew of devices, so they'll have to test everything. So all of those sources work fine on 99% of the devices that claim 4K/UHD and HDR. But Epson, in its weirdness, released a brand new unit with a half-decade old chipset. And then, even more strangely, put a slightly different one behind the WirelessHD connection *and* didn't get *that* one up to modern spec, either. 

And for us owners, the reality is, there's not enough 5040 projectors out there for manufacturers to really care about scaling down their output to what it can support, because its the year of 4K, and in a few days there's going to be millions of 4K TVs sold for the holidays that, even in their $300 versions, are 100% compatible with what they're outputting. If I was them, I wouldn't sink engineer time into it, either. (If MS, for example, was to add 30fps support to its 4K output, which would enable HDR for games on the Epson, they'd have to invest in a PM to design the support, an engineer or two to build it, and a QA engineer or two to test it... and every single release going forward they'd have to retest it again... it'd be a huge investment for a minuscule market.)

I was looking at the HDFury, and I can't tell if it can do framerate changes... that's the real fix for the problem. You really need to be able to take a 60fps HDR input, and convert it to 30fps, or 24fps. That'd solve most of the compatibility problems, but I don't see framerate changes in their list of supported conversions.


----------



## WynsWrld98

dvdwilly3 said:


> Do you (or anyone) know whether the fan goes into high speed mode because you have selected High mode or is it temperature based?


You have control to select the low/med/high lamp mode but I believe if you set the projector to high altitude it defaults to high lamp. The point I was making is people will get a brand new projector all excited how bright it is but you do lose a lot of lumens as the lamp ages, as soon as within 500 hours you've already lost lumens. So starting at low or medium lamp mode not a bad idea but likely you'll end up in high lamp mode as the lamp ages unless ofcourse you have a high gain screen and/or small screen.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Threefiddie said:


> because they are going to come out with another projector that will do it. watch it happen. just makes no sense to buy a half baked product as much as I would love to have one and replace my sony hw50es, it just doesn't fully support the xbox one s, ps4 pro, or pc. Can't buy something personally that doesn't work with my equipment unless i run it all at lower res. still want one though.


Epson has released some of the 5 and 6 series projectors within a year of each other. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if Epson releases 5050/6050 projectors at the year point (announced at CEDIA 9/2017) with 18 GB chip to increase compatibility with source devices and other minor changes. I'm waiting it out with my 5030 until then, too many compatibility issues with the 5040/6040 for my taste compared to a competing projector like the JVC RS400 which is about a year older than the 5040/6040 yet has an 18 GB chip (JVC is supposedly releasing new projectors fairly soon so I'm on wait mode for them as well). MSRP on the RS400 $3999 vs 5040 $2999 but JVC is discounted whereas 5040 not which tightens the gap in price.


----------



## dholmes54

What kind of mount comes with 6040,can't find a picture of it.My 6020 uses a 1.5 inch threaded pipe,I bought a longer one instead of the one that came with the 6020.


----------



## c.kingsley

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm waiting it out with my 5030 until then, too many compatibility issues with the 5040/6040 for my taste compared to a competing projector like the JVC RS400 which is about a year older than the 5040/6040.


Except the trade off for that 18gpbs compatibility is the projector is all but worthless for 4k60 (or any resolution) gaming due to input latency. The RS400 is also an imperfect machine. At this time, November 2016, this is much ado about nothing, IMO. Neither the PS4 Pro nor the XB1 Scorpio are going to render 4k internally. The current consoles struggle to provide 1080p60 native! Even with the upgraded hardware of the Scorpio, it'll render some fraction of 4k internally, upscale to 4k and sell itself as a 4k console to the masses, most of whom will be none the wiser. In reality, you'd end up as good or better picture by setting the console to output 1080p60 and letting the Epson upscale/eshift the game for you. And bonus: HDR works at 1080p.

There never has been nor will there ever be a future proof display. Every projector in this price range (including the RS400) is a series of compromises. Neither of these projectors can even display native 4k, they're a bridge solution and a mostly competent one at that.


----------



## mercuryyy

I'v about to return my epson 5040 because its not supporting 18 Gpbs. Has someone here saw 5040 side by side with a *X950R? *I have a pretty lite up room so the trade off from 2500lm to 1900 scares me. im running the 5040 on bright cinema now and its ok for my living room i wish i could test the X950R in my lighting before i make a call on this. 

Feedback will really be appreciated


----------



## c.kingsley

mercuryyy said:


> Feedback will really be appreciated


This isn't the best audience for your question. You should ask in the RS600 threads.


----------



## k3nnis

Can you run 1080P HDR with Xbox one S? Or only on PS4 pro?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dotorg

k3nnis said:


> Can you run 1080P HDR with Xbox one S? Or only on PS4 pro?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, 4K only.

That option, I think, would work with an HDFury -- take the XB1S output at 4K and reduce it to 1080P HDR, which I believe the Epson can handle just fine. You wouldn't lose much -- the XB1 can't do 4K rendering, anyway, in games. I vaguely remember back a few dozen threads that someone had tried that.


----------



## MaximTre

Guys, check this awesome information about the wireless unit, it seems to run @450mhz intead of 300mhz (of the wired port).
That's a lot more bandwidth.
But apparently epson decided to limit what the wireless unit can support, another bad decision.
I think we should write them about that, I'll surely do.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2514537-hdfury-linker-17.html#post48273153


----------



## MaximTre

dotorg said:


> No, 4K only.
> 
> That option, I think, would work with an HDFury -- take the XB1S output at 4K and reduce it to 1080P HDR, which I believe the Epson can handle just fine. You wouldn't lose much -- the XB1 can't do 4K rendering, anyway, in games. I vaguely remember back a few dozen threads that someone had tried that.


Correct.
Or, you can use a 4k/4:2:0/8bit signal.


----------



## abs

WynsWrld98 said:


> Epson has released some of the 5 and 6 series projectors within a year of each other. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if Epson releases 5050/6050 projectors at the year point (announced at CEDIA 9/2017) with 18 GB chip to increase compatibility with source devices and other minor changes. I'm waiting it out with my 5030 until then, too many compatibility issues with the 5040/6040 for my taste compared to a competing projector like the JVC RS400 which is about a year older than the 5040/6040 yet has an 18 GB chip (JVC is supposedly releasing new projectors fairly soon so I'm on wait mode for them as well). MSRP on the RS400 $3999 vs 5040 $2999 but JVC is discounted whereas 5040 not which tightens the gap in price.


I'm gonna do the same and wait for the projectors due out next year. .this will be the first time in over 10 years I will be without a projector for longer than 6 months. The dust issue on the Epson is a major concern for me as previous models have been plagued with dust problems not having a sealed light path. .Laser is the way forward for me unless Epson decide to seal their light path etc on their non laser models. 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## mercuryyy

*In the picture is my 5040 on a cinagray 5d screen i made.

As you can see the lighting can is not controlled or lite. Im not happy with the epson not accepting 18 gpbs and want to change to the X950R will the 1900lm on the x950R Be a big difference compared to the epson's 2500LM in the picture attached the epson is set to bright cinema factory. 


View attachment 1776921

*


----------



## dholmes54

The pq looks fine imho


----------



## bezlar

Just got anew 5040 to compare to my optoma hd8600 dlp. Can anyone give me a quick setting that gets this ready for movies. Or best setting for all. I'm a set and forget guy. Screen is a Seymour at center stage xd 120 inch. Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Fenrir2

evoZip said:


> I'm not seeing anything so far. Kind of want to wait but also would really like to have in place by thanksgiving weekend for The Game.


Yesterday someone dropped prices on google (not like I check obsessively or anything as I am researching .>) and today googling turns up three places below the $2,999 price. TV Superstore being the current "winner" with no tax and free shipping for $2,379. 

Disclaimer as someone just research my first home theater equip I have no idea if those places are even legit or what not yet so YMMV. Just pointing out that prices are now apparently moving for those looking for Turkey day deals.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Fenrir2 said:


> Yesterday someone dropped prices on google (not like I check obsessively or anything as I am researching .>) and today googling turns up three places below the $2,999 price. TV Superstore being the current "winner" with no tax and free shipping for $2,379.
> 
> Disclaimer as someone just research my first home theater equip I have no idea if those places are even legit or what not yet so YMMV. Just pointing out that prices are now apparently moving for those looking for Turkey day deals.


Those place you see on the Google pricing lists that are well under $3K for the 5040 are scam artists.
Just do some searching of their business name on the Better Business Bureau and customer feedback sites.
Also be aware that some of them are also good at posting fake positive feedback in some places,
but if you search well enough you find the truth. They aren't worth your time.


----------



## Fenrir2

Smarty-pants said:


> Those place you see on the Google pricing lists that are well under $3K for the 5040 are scam artists.
> Just do some searching of their business name on the Better Business Bureau and customer feedback sites.
> Also be aware that some of them are also good at posting fake positive feedback in some places,
> but if you search well enough you find the truth. They aren't worth your time.


Thinks for the tip. I have not researched where to buy yet as I have not even determined which PJ I want. But the 5040 is one of two contenders if I want to pull the trigger sometime soon.


----------



## c.kingsley

Fenrir2 said:


> Yesterday someone dropped prices on google (not like I check obsessively or anything as I am researching .>) and today googling turns up three places below the $2,999 price. TV Superstore being the current "winner" with no tax and free shipping for $2,379.
> 
> Disclaimer as someone just research my first home theater equip I have no idea if those places are even legit or what not yet so YMMV. Just pointing out that prices are now apparently moving for those looking for Turkey day deals.


Caveat emptor. There is another poster here who bought from an unauthorized vendor, and they are having trouble getting the projector repaired under warranty. You would be better off purchasing it outright through Amazon (5% discover cash back) if you can afford to pay it off immediately or get a finance deal through a box store like Best Buy. The money you _might_ save will never be worth the hassle you'll endure if you have to submit a warranty claim. Other options are to use a Visa Gold or Amex and get a 3rd year of warranty through the card. I've used the Visa warranty service once in the past with no hassle.


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> Correct.
> 
> Or, you can use a 4k/4:2:0/8bit signal.




Does it look good at this mode? And do we need HD fury to achieve this on wired 5040?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdwilly3

bezlar said:


> Just got anew 5040 to compare to my optoma hd8600 dlp. Can anyone give me a quick setting that gets this ready for movies. Or best setting for all. I'm a set and forget guy. Screen is a Seymour at center stage xd 120 inch. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Set up memory profiles as you need on the projector...

Follow the link in my signature to get you started, and then tweak from there...but, remember to Save Memory to keep your settings.

Have fun!


----------



## MaximTre

k3nnis said:


> Does it look good at this mode? And do we need HD fury to achieve this on wired 5040?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, it's good, you get hdr, all the bt.2020 tone mapping and most of the colors. You'll have some occasional banding (think of the sky in forza horizon), but it's an acceptable trade off for a game.
You need a linker o something like that.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

so what is the verdict on PS4 Pro, does the image quality difference is noticeable between 1080p HDR (with 4K enhancement) vs 4k HDR ? 
Was planning to get it the pro but now Im hesitant.


----------



## Doron Davidoff

Hey All
I'm heaving a problem with displaying HDR content on my new 5040.
Just got my new roku premiere+, logged in my Netflix account and tried to play some HDR content.
please see in the image the settings that the 5040 is getting. and the picture it's displaying.
with standard 4K there is no problem, (the same HDR is playing ok on my Samsung HDR TV, so it's not roku's problem)


----------



## MaximTre

MaximTre said:


> Guys, check this awesome information about the wireless unit, it seems to run @450mhz intead of 300mhz (of the wired port).
> That's a lot more bandwidth.
> But apparently epson decided to limit what the wireless unit can support, another bad decision.
> I think we should write them about that, I'll surely do.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2514537-hdfury-linker-17.html#post48273153


Guys, it's true and huge.
This can have a great impact on compatibility, the wirelesshd is limited at 450mhz, while the wired at 300mhz.
450mhz is a LOT better than 300mhz, it means wireless could reach 4K60 4:2:0 12b but it's limited by epson at 8 bit. The point is the bandwidth is there, so limitations CAN BE FIXED.
Go check the HDFury post linked above.

Wired


WirelessHD


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> Guys, it's true and huge.
> 
> This can have a great impact on compatibility, the wirelesshd is limited at 450mhz, while the wired at 300mhz.
> 
> 450mhz is a LOT better than 300mhz, it means wireless could reach 4K60 4:2:0 12b but it's limited by epson at 8 bit. The point is the bandwidth is there, so limitations CAN BE FIXED.
> 
> Go check the HDFury post linked above.
> 
> 
> 
> Wired
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WirelessHD



Can the projector do it though? If it can't then the point is moot.


----------



## MaximTre

Well, it not about displaying 8:8:8 or 120hz or 16bit, it's just a bandwidth limitation.
I'll add all the credit for the finding goes to hdfury and they surely aren't amateurs , I believe it's an amazing discover, thanks guys!
Hope epson will unlock the wireless unit to its full potential, it would allow to fully utilise the ps4 pro and many other devices.


----------



## Gary Lightfoot

On the Cine4home website, they stripped down the 6040 and found the chipsets that limit what the pj can accept - IIRC, although the wireless may have a higher bandwidth, it still has to go through the same chip as the HDMI connection and it's that chip that is the limiting factor. I can't find the actual pictures of the chipsets, so maybe they were reported here by Ekki in one of the 6040 threads (he has been posting there). If that's the case, then nothing can be done to fix the limitation.


----------



## WynsWrld98

c.kingsley said:


> Except the trade off for that 18gpbs compatibility is the projector is all but worthless for 4k60 (or any resolution) gaming due to input latency. The RS400 is also an imperfect machine. At this time, November 2016, this is much ado about nothing, IMO. Neither the PS4 Pro nor the XB1 Scorpio are going to render 4k internally. The current consoles struggle to provide 1080p60 native! Even with the upgraded hardware of the Scorpio, it'll render some fraction of 4k internally, upscale to 4k and sell itself as a 4k console to the masses, most of whom will be none the wiser. In reality, you'd end up as good or better picture by setting the console to output 1080p60 and letting the Epson upscale/eshift the game for you. And bonus: HDR works at 1080p.
> 
> There never has been nor will there ever be a future proof display. Every projector in this price range (including the RS400) is a series of compromises. Neither of these projectors can even display native 4k, they're a bridge solution and a mostly competent one at that.


18 GB chip ONLY useful for gaming? Your post makes it sound like that's the case but I read a lot more compatibility issues with the 5040/6040 than gaming so are you saying those compatibility issues have nothing to do with Epson's 10 GB chip? Personally I don't do any gaming so it's a non-issue but am curious if Epson puts an 18 GB chip in the 5050/6050 what increases in compatibility it would bring for non-gaming sources (e.g., 4K HDR).


----------



## dholmes54

Hey DvdWilly3 how do you like the 6040ub,I live in a remote area and have to blind buy everything.From what I can see you have a great HT,what projector did you have before the 6040 UB?I have the 6020 now and been reading about the 6040ub and found one for a good price.Also how good does blu-rays look converted to 2160p,my Vizio 4k TV makes blu-rays look great converting to 2160p & was wondering if the 6040 did to,Im not getting ultra HD blu-rays for a while.


----------



## gnolivos

So I decided to sell my old non-HDCP compliant Yamaha AVR and bought the Yamaha Aventage A750. This thing better work well with the 5040 or I am going to throw a fit.


----------



## dvdwilly3

dholmes54 said:


> Hey DvdWilly3 how do you like the 6040ub,I live in a remote area and have to blind buy everything.From what I can see you have a great HT,what projector did you have before the 6040 UB?I have the 6020 now and been reading about the 6040ub and found one for a good price.Also how good does blu-rays look converted to 2160p,my Vizio 4k TV makes blu-rays look great converting to 2160p & was wondering if the 6040 did to,Im not getting ultra HD blu-rays for a while.


Hey, dholmes54...

I had a Sony VPL-VW50, 1080p, which put up a very good picture. But, it just was not up to the PQ of the 6040.

Go to the link in my signature and look at the various screen shots in that thread. Then, decide for yourself, or not, whether you like what I was able to achieve.

I am very pleased with it, and will likely not bother moving to true 4K whenever the price start to come down.

Remember, the only one that has to be happy is you...if you ignore the WAF factor...


----------



## MaximTre

Gary Lightfoot said:


> On the Cine4home website, they stripped down the 6040 and found the chipsets that limit what the pj can accept - IIRC, although the wireless may have a higher bandwidth, it still has to go through the same chip as the HDMI connection and it's that chip that is the limiting factor. I can't find the actual pictures of the chipsets, so maybe they were reported here by Ekki in one of the 6040 threads (he has been posting there). If that's the case, then nothing can be done to fix the limitation.


Well, thanks to the teardown we found wired and wireless have different chipsets, the wireless one being full band.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs willy I've got a dedicated room for HT & projector,what kind of mount came with the 6040? The 6020 let me use my 1.5 inch threaded pipe because the one that came with it was too short and using mine I don't have to adjust anything on the projector like keystone or all the other adjustments.


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> Well, it not about displaying 8:8:8 or 120hz or 16bit, it's just a bandwidth limitation.
> I'll add all the credit for the finding goes to hdfury and they surely aren't amateurs , I believe it's an amazing discover, thanks guys!
> Hope epson will unlock the wireless unit to its full potential, it would allow to fully utilise the ps4 pro and many other devices.


Just because the wireless can accept that input and send it over to the 5040UBe doesn't mean it can "fully utilize" those sources, because as Gary is saying below, the higher signal is being limited in the projector itself before being displayed.



Gary Lightfoot said:


> On the Cine4home website, they stripped down the 6040 and found the chipsets that limit what the pj can accept - IIRC, although the wireless may have a higher bandwidth, it still has to go through the same chip as the HDMI connection and it's that chip that is the limiting factor. I can't find the actual pictures of the chipsets, so maybe they were reported here by Ekki in one of the 6040 threads (he has been posting there). If that's the case, then nothing can be done to fix the limitation.





MaximTre said:


> Well, thanks to the teardown we found wired and wireless have different chipsets, the wireless one being full band.


I think you're missing what Gary said and what I believe I also read that is true, that the wireless chip sends its signal through the same chip that the hard wired HDMI inputs use, so in the end even the wireless signal is subject to the same limitations as the wired.

We could be mistaken though, but iirc somewhere in this thread I talked about the wireless signal having more capability and then someone mentioned this limitation to me as well. Although it kind of helps in that you can send more higher spec signals into it for more head room for the projector to use when it scales it back down, which can result in a little bit better of a signal in the end.


----------



## Pablo2k

Hi, I think I might go for the 5040ube, but I have a few questions before I pull the trigger:

1) is a VMax2 elite screen enough for this pj?
2) and if not, since I can only afford VMax2 screen should I go for the Sony 45ES?

I'm using dslr analogy and a good camera is nothing with a crappy lens.

Thanks!


----------



## c.kingsley

WynsWrld98 said:


> 18 GB chip ONLY useful for gaming? Your post makes it sound like that's the case but I read a lot more compatibility issues with the 5040/6040 than gaming so are you saying those compatibility issues have nothing to do with Epson's 10 GB chip? Personally I don't do any gaming so it's a non-issue but am curious if Epson puts an 18 GB chip in the 5050/6050 what increases in compatibility it would bring for non-gaming sources (e.g., 4K HDR).


That's not what I mean. Gaming is the most likely source for 4k60 HDR which is why I bring it up. The fact is we don't know if there will be a 5050/6050. It'll be at least a one year wait to test that theory. My point is the 5040 is plenty capable for UHD and it can still do 4k60p. The Youtube 4k samples look incredible as 8bit 4:2:0 SDR. With all the back and forth about HDR or SDR, I think most people tend to enjoy 4k SDR more so on the projector anyway, so it is a moot point from my chair (where it looks incredible, by the way). For gaming, I'll be setting my console to output 1080p. If the Scorpio won't support 1080p HDR, I'll have the Linker take the 18gbps 4k input and drop it to 1080p BT2020 HDR.

In summary, if you have any intention of playing games, then the 5040 is the only 4k option in this price range today. If you will never play games, look to the RS400. If you're OK with some minor compromises, a 5040 + HDFury is less than either the 5040UBE or the RS400 and it resolves any input compatibility issue except for 4k60p HDR (which can be downscaled to 1080p). The RS400 and 5040 are going to be sold all year. I'd love for JVC to prove me wrong but with their input lag track record, their new units are not likely to be any better in this department.


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> I think you're missing what Gary said and what I believe I also read that is true, that the wireless chip sends its signal through the same chip that the hard wired HDMI inputs use, so in the end even the wireless signal is subject to the same limitations as the wired.
> 
> We could be mistaken though, but iirc somewhere in this thread I talked about the wireless signal having more capability and then someone mentioned this limitation to me as well. Although it kind of helps in that you can send more higher spec signals into it for more head room for the projector to use when it scales it back down, which can result in a little bit better of a signal in the end.


Actually I'm not missing any point, really, I triple checked.
As I said, wireless and wired are on completely different path, handled by completely different chipsets.
That's why samsung player worked from the start via wireless only.

https://translate.google.fr/transla...00_w/epson_eh_tw_9300_7300_9300w-livetest.htm

*- The HDMI input directly to the projector is limited by the SIL9679. So probably the problems with the Samsung. This can be solved by FW probably not. Since one must hope for Samsung, otherwise it remains incompatible.

- The radio connection, on the other hand, runs completely via the SIL9777 (both in the projector and in the transmitter). Which actually allow full HDMI2.0 to 18Gbit. The bottle neck is the radio connection, which does not support the full data rate at 60Hz.*


----------



## c.kingsley

MaximTre said:


> *The bottle neck is the radio connection, which does not support the full data rate at 60Hz.*


What data rate is supported if not full 60Hz? I think its worth investigating but it just seems unlikely that Epson would purposely hamstring the input rates.


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> Alright, I have some results from testing on the Linker. You can remove HDR while retaining 4k / 12bit / 4:2:2 / 24p. You can also fool the sending device into believing your display is capable of 4k60p by changing the EDID and then using the scaler to convert all 4k60p to 4k60p 8bit 4:2:0 for the display. I don't have an XB1S to test, but this should enable HDR output from it.
> 
> To disable HDR:
> 
> Open the HDFury application.
> Select the HDR/AVI tab.
> Clear/delete the HDR metadata in the box.
> Check the box to Enable Custom HDR.
> 
> Enabling the custom (blank) HDR metadata reverts to BT2020 SDR.
> 
> First impressions:
> It seems to be beneficial on Oblivion but not on Warcraft. I've mentioned earlier that Warcraft UHD looked very good overall in HDR. In order to take advantage of this capability it will require two memory settings on the 5040, one for HDR and one for SDR. And as far as I can tell, changing the setting to toggle HDR requires the GUI on a PC. It may be possible to toggle this setting with one of the macro key combinations, but I haven't investigated that yet. The device is a little finicky. It increases the HDMI sync/lock time by about 10 seconds but I could get used to it. I think the benefit of stripping HDR is going to depend on the movie you're watching. I didn't have time to perform another calibration of my Digital Cinema input, so all of these photos use the same settings I have been using for HDR. The stripped versions clearly need some adjustment in the brightness/contrast department. One of the biggest things I noticed was the mountains behind Medivh. Look at the detail in the background on HDR vs SDR. Although the picture is clearly brighter in SDR, I'm not sure it looks better universally.
> 
> Part of me is starting to wonder if we've just become accustomed to that SDR look and there isn't anything wrong with HDR other than our own perception.


I got my Linker yesterday and was able to hook it up real quick late last night. When I initially tried it using the XBox One S via wired, I couldn't get it to recognize and send an SDR with bt2020 WCG signal if I disabled HDR like you mentioned by clearing out the HDR metadata in the box. (I also don't think you're supposed to click the "Custom HDR" box because I would get an error message saying I need a min of 2 and max of 32 characters in the box and wouldn't allow it being blank.) No matter what I tried the info screen on the 5040 kept saying it was bt709, not bt2020. Under Color Space in Auto mode it would auto select bt709 as well, proving that it was receiving bt709, not bt2020 WCG. The HDR box on the XB1S was grayed out and not selectable too, if that helps figure this out.

When I switched it to the Philips UHD BR player it DID give me SDR with bt2020 and even showed that in the info GUI you can pop up on it, as well as the 5040's info screen.

I didn't have time to test further after that. Is it maybe because the XB1S outputs RGB and not YCC? Maybe since it outputs RGB, it has to offer HDR in order to do WCG and without HDR, it won't do bt2020? Any ideas?


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> I didn't have time to test further after that. Is it maybe because the XB1S outputs RGB and not YCC? Maybe since it outputs RGB, it has to offer HDR in order to do WCG and without HDR, it won't do bt2020? Any ideas?


I'm not sure what settings are available on the XB1S, because I'm still holding out for the Scorpio. I pulled up the menu on my regular XB1 and I see it allows you to select either standard (which I assume is YCbCr) or PC RGB. Can you do this on the XB1 S also?

edit - hah, I just realized Scorpio is not out until holiday 2017. I thought it was going to be out this season. I'll just get an XB1S since I want one for the projector anyway. My S will be here on Tuesday.


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> Actually I'm not missing any point, really, I triple checked.
> As I said, wireless and wired are on completely different path, handled by completely different chipsets.
> That's why samsung player worked from the start via wireless only.
> 
> https://translate.google.fr/transla...00_w/epson_eh_tw_9300_7300_9300w-livetest.htm
> 
> *- The HDMI input directly to the projector is limited by the SIL9679. So probably the problems with the Samsung. This can be solved by FW probably not. Since one must hope for Samsung, otherwise it remains incompatible.
> 
> - The radio connection, on the other hand, runs completely via the SIL9777 (both in the projector and in the transmitter). Which actually allow full HDMI2.0 to 18Gbit. The bottle neck is the radio connection, which does not support the full data rate at 60Hz.*


OK, thanks for pointing to that link and showing the quotes. That does contradict what Gary and I read earlier, but that's good!

So what you're saying is for Epson to hopefully be able to update the FW to remove the radio limitation so it can transmit to the projector and display a full 18Gbps signal? It can already do the 24Hz, right, just not 60?


----------



## MaximTre

c.kingsley said:


> What data rate is supported if not full 60Hz? I think its worth investigating but it just seems unlikely that Epson would purposely hamstring the input rates.


Yeah, it would also seems very unlikely for epson to put a limited bandwidth hdmi port in a 2016 projector, but we know how it went.
Good news is bandwith is there using wireless, epson just has to unlock the locked resolutions, but those interested have to raise their voices, or it won't happen.


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> I'm not sure what settings are available on the XB1S, because I'm still holding out for the Scorpio. I pulled up the menu on my regular XB1 and I see it allows you to select either standard (which I assume is YCbCr) or PC RGB. Can you do this on the XB1 S also?
> 
> edit - hah, I just realized Scorpio is not out until holiday 2017. I thought it was going to be out this season. I'll just get an XB1S since I want one for the projector anyway. My S will be here on Tuesday.


Yes, it has that selection which I thought initially as you do. That "Standard" meant YCbCr component, but apparently it doesn't. I'm pretty sure the XBox Ones output only in RGB, not YCbCr. Standard setting means RGB video level (16-235) and PC RGB setting means PC Data levels (0-255). Both are RGBHV. Which I think actually accounts for why I see a better image using the XB1S on my Sony 350ES, because maybe it sends RGB 4:4:4 12 bit with an expanded color gamut? I won't know for awhile now though since my 350ES is in for service.

I'll check the output of the XB1S with my Linker when I have a chance to confirm what it's outputting.


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> OK, thanks for pointing to that link and showing the quotes. That does contradict what Gary and I read earlier, but that's good!
> 
> So what you're saying is for Epson to hopefully be able to update the FW to remove the radio limitation so it can transmit to the projector and display a full 18Gbps signal? It can already do the 24Hz, right, just not 60?


Not full, something between.
Limited hdmi is 300mhz (that's what the wired port is). Full is 600mhz.
Wireless is 450mhz (wireless chipset could support 600mhz, but wireless signal can't), but the added bandwidth can solve a lot of compatibility problems.


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, it has that selection which I thought initially as you do. That "Standard" meant YCbCr component, but apparently it doesn't. I'm pretty sure the XBox Ones output only in RGB, not YCbCr. Standard setting means RGB video level (16-235) and PC RGB setting means PC Data levels (0-255). Both are RGBHV. Which I think actually accounts for why I see a better image using the XB1S on my Sony 350ES, because maybe it sends RGB 4:4:4 12 bit with an expanded color gamut? I won't know for awhile now though since my 350ES is in for service.
> 
> I'll check the output of the XB1S with my Linker when I have a chance to confirm what it's outputting.


Check the linker thread, I posted many x1s screenshots, you'll find the informations there


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> Not full, something between.
> Limited hdmi is 300mhz (that's what the wired port is). Full is 600mhz.
> Wireless is 450mhz (wireless chipset could support 600mhz, but wireless signal can't), but the added bandwidth can solve a lot of compatibility problems.


I think that's what I'm saying though, that maybe they can update FW on the wireless transmitter so it's radio signal can allow full 18Gbps 600MHz since the chipset can do that.



MaximTre said:


> Check the linker thread, I posted many x1s screenshots, you'll find the informations there


OK thanks, I'll do that. Does it say whether the XB Ones are RGB only?


----------



## WynsWrld98

c.kingsley said:


> That's not what I mean. Gaming is the most likely source for 4k60 HDR which is why I bring it up. The fact is we don't know if there will be a 5050/6050. It'll be at least a one year wait to test that theory. My point is the 5040 is plenty capable for UHD and it can still do 4k60p. The Youtube 4k samples look incredible as 8bit 4:2:0 SDR. With all the back and forth about HDR or SDR, I think most people tend to enjoy 4k SDR more so on the projector anyway, so it is a moot point from my chair (where it looks incredible, by the way). For gaming, I'll be setting my console to output 1080p. If the Scorpio won't support 1080p HDR, I'll have the Linker take the 18gbps 4k input and drop it to 1080p BT2020 HDR.
> 
> In summary, if you have any intention of playing games, then the 5040 is the only 4k option in this price range today. If you will never play games, look to the RS400. If you're OK with some minor compromises, a 5040 + HDFury is less than either the 5040UBE or the RS400 and it resolves any input compatibility issue except for 4k60p HDR (which can be downscaled to 1080p). The RS400 and 5040 are going to be sold all year. I'd love for JVC to prove me wrong but with their input lag track record, their new units are not likely to be any better in this department.


You dismiss HDR like it's meaningless for the 5040 and JVC RS400 but a lot of people here are interested in it and some mention they like it so perhaps it's OK for you to dismiss it for your use and spend extra money on a Linker to get SDR but it seems the issues complained about here are compatibility issues with people trying to get HDR working on the 5040/6040 with various source devices so trying to understand how many of the compatibility issues are due to Epson using a 10 GB HDMI chip vs 18 GB HDMI chip and how many of the issues are gaming vs watching 4K HDR video content. Not everyone is into gaming so understanding issues that affect watching videos vs. gaming useful info and if Epson goes to an 18 GB HDMI chip (in 5050/6050) how many issues would potentially be solved. BTW it likely won't be a year until we know if Epson will release a 5050/6050, CEDIA is Sept 2017 and that is usually where announcements are made.


----------



## c.kingsley

WynsWrld98 said:


> You dismiss HDR like it's meaningless for the 5040 and JVC RS400 but a lot of people here are interested in it and some mention they like it so perhaps it's OK for you to dismiss it for your use and spend extra money on a Linker to get SDR but it seems the issues complained about here are compatibility issues with people trying to get HDR working on the 5040/6040 with various source devices so trying to understand how many of the compatibility issues are due to Epson using a 10 GB HDMI chip vs 18 GB HDMI chip and how many of the issues are gaming vs watching 4K HDR video content. Not everyone is into gaming so understanding issues that affect watching videos vs. gaming useful info and if Epson goes to an 18 GB HDMI chip (in 5050/6050) how many issues would potentially be solved.


I don't want to be that guy, but you need to find a period somewhere in this wall of text, it is terribly difficult to read.

I just think you're overthinking this. If 18gbps is the most important thing to you then the RS400 will fit the bill nicely. You can contact AVS and buy one today. I'm trying to help you. As someone who actually owns the projector and runs in a completely light controlled room, I can tell you that HDR is hit or miss. When its good, it is amazing. There will be some content that I may shut it off for. You can sit on the sidelines and wish for a 5050 or you can buy an RS400 today which will suit your needs just fine.


----------



## hatlesschimp

They need to start using Displayport in these TVs & Projectors. All these HDMI revisions just line the pockets of the HDMI founding members.
I cant see tgem releasing a 5050 or 6050 next year lol. At least two years between drinks id say if not 2.5 to 3 maybe.


----------



## chiltonj

c.kingsley said:


> I don't want to be that guy, but you need to find a period somewhere in this wall of text, it is terribly difficult to read.
> 
> I just think you're overthinking this. If 18gbps is the most important thing to you then the RS400 will fit the bill nicely. You can contact AVS and buy one today. I'm trying to help you. As someone who actually owns the projector and runs in a completely light controlled room, I can tell you that HDR is hit or miss. When its good, it is amazing. There will be some content that I may shut it off for. You can sit on the sidelines and wish for a 5050 or you can buy an RS400 today which will suit your needs just fine.


As more of a lamen here who just wants a good picture and doesn't understand half the stuff that's posted here, I agree with kingsley and recently posted that I enjoyed star trek with hdr1 and mad max fury road without hdr. I just don't like having to mess with settings during the first five minutes of every movie to get it to my liking. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

c.kingsley said:


> I don't want to be that guy, but you need to find a period somewhere in this wall of text, it is terribly difficult to read.
> 
> I just think you're overthinking this. If 18gbps is the most important thing to you then the RS400 will fit the bill nicely. You can contact AVS and buy one today. I'm trying to help you. As someone who actually owns the projector and runs in a completely light controlled room, I can tell you that HDR is hit or miss. When its good, it is amazing. There will be some content that I may shut it off for. You can sit on the sidelines and wish for a 5050 or you can buy an RS400 today which will suit your needs just fine.


I thought my question was quite simple, *don't really care who answers it*, let me state it as simply as I can. Re: the tons of complaints of compatibility issues with 4K HDR in the 5040/6040 threads whether it be video games or video content, would Epson adding a 18 GB HDMI chip in their next projector (e.g., 5050/6050) make a significant difference with the compatibility issues?

Was that succinct?

I've been quite loyal to Epson owning a 6010 and now a 5030 and think they do a great job with bang for buck, no projector is perfect including the JVC RS400. It can't be ignored how much complaining is going on in the 5040/6040 threads about compatibility issues, just trying to figure out how Epson might improve and/or solve it in their successor projector.


----------



## dvdwilly3

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs willy I've got a dedicated room for HT & projector,what kind of mount came with the 6040? The 6020 let me use my 1.5 inch threaded pipe because the one that came with it was too short and using mine I don't have to adjust anything on the projector like keystone or all the other adjustments.


My recollection is a 6" downrod, pipe, whatever...

The Epson has A considerable lens shift, both vertical and horizontal. Keystoning should not be an issue.

Just make sure that your mount is perpendicular to the screen. Asjust roll, pitch, and yaw as necessary. You should be fine.


----------



## trainfan

*8 bit 4:4:4 versus 12 bit 4:4:4*

Ok so doing some testing
And playing Blu-Rays on my Sony BDP-BX650 Upscaling Blu-ray player I am getting
12 bit 4:4:4 SDR picture.

And with encoded movies on my Nvidia Shield TV running a Plex Server I get
8 bit 4:4:4 SDR picture.

How much difference will that make in picture quality ?

And I didn't think I could get 12 bit 4:4:4 with a 5040UBE ??
Is the wireless part that is able to send a 12 bit signal ?

and this is with my Onkyo TX-NR818 receiver only being HDMI 1.4 , not a 2.0 or 2.2 reciever


----------



## mercuryyy

trainfan said:


> Ok so doing some testing
> And playing Blu-Rays on my Sony BDP-BX650 Upscaling Blu-ray player I am getting
> 12 bit 4:4:4 SDR picture.
> 
> And with encoded movies on my Nvidia Shield TV running a Plex Server I get
> 8 bit 4:4:4 SDR picture.
> 
> How much difference will that make in picture quality ?
> 
> And I didn't think I could get 12 bit 4:4:4 with a 5040UBE ??
> Is the wireless part that is able to send a 12 bit signal ?
> 
> and this is with my Onkyo TX-NR818 receiver only being HDMI 1.4 , not a 2.0 or 2.2 reciever


I own the 5040ub i didnt even know the ube will support a higher 4k format. I FIND IT RIDICULOUS that epson does not support 18 gbps and then they dont even support 12 bit 4:4:4 on the UB only on the wireless UBE. *WHY DO YOU ADVERTISE FULL 4K WITH HDR THEN!!!

*i WAS about to return it to amazon today and get a jvc x950r which suppports ALL THE 4K FORMATS but then i find out its lag time is 100-120ms compared to epson's 30-50 for online gaming. But its motion flow is much better then the epsons. SO MANY DAM TRADE OFFS


----------



## MaximTre

mercuryyy said:


> I own the 5040ub i didnt even know the ube will support a higher 4k format. I FIND IT RIDICULOUS that epson does not support 18 gbps and then they dont even support 12 bit 4:4:4 on the UB only on the wireless UBE. *WHY DO YOU ADVERTISE FULL 4K WITH HDR THEN!!!
> 
> *i WAS about to return it to amazon today and get a jvc x950r which suppports ALL THE 4K FORMATS but then i find out its lag time is 100-120ms compared to epson's 30-50 for online gaming. But its motion flow is much better then the epsons. SO MANY DAM TRADE OFFS


You are completely right, but unfortunately that's the situation right now.


----------



## Nexgen76

Okay so help me understand....Because I got RS400 and it appears to be dim watching 4K with HDR isn't the 5040 brighter this is living room conditions but I have blackout curtains. Also 10gb chipset vs 18 chipset what the issues behind that all I want to do is watch blu-ray & UHD Blu-ray and stream 4K from nexflix. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

trainfan said:


> Ok so doing some testing
> And playing Blu-Rays on my Sony BDP-BX650 Upscaling Blu-ray player I am getting
> *12 bit 4:4:4 SDR* picture.
> 
> And with encoded movies on my Nvidia Shield TV running a Plex Server I get
> *8 bit 4:4:4 SDR* picture.
> 
> How much difference will that make in picture quality ?
> 
> And I didn't think I could get 12 bit 4:4:4 with a 5040UBE ??
> Is the wireless part that is able to send a 12 bit signal ?
> 
> and this is with my Onkyo TX-NR818 receiver *only being HDMI 1.4* , not a 2.0 or 2.2 reciever


All above is discussing SDR so no issues. The higher chroma parameters referenced above only come into play when displaying in HDR.


----------



## dvdwilly3

trainfan said:


> Ok so doing some testing
> And playing Blu-Rays on my Sony BDP-BX650 Upscaling Blu-ray player I am getting
> 12 bit 4:4:4 SDR picture.
> 
> And with encoded movies on my Nvidia Shield TV running a Plex Server I get
> 8 bit 4:4:4 SDR picture.
> 
> How much difference will that make in picture quality ?
> 
> And I didn't think I could get 12 bit 4:4:4 with a 5040UBE ??
> Is the wireless part that is able to send a 12 bit signal ?
> 
> and this is with my Onkyo TX-NR818 receiver only being HDMI 1.4 , not a 2.0 or 2.2 reciever


I do not think that HDMI 1.4 (Onkyo 818) will pass HDR metadata. For that matter, I do not believe that it will pass BT 2020 metadata.

Try hooking your devices up directly to HDMI port 1 on the Epson and see what is displayed on your Info screen.

And, make sure that it is port 1 and not port 2 because port 2 will only handle HDMI 1.4, and you will be right back in the same boat.

Bottom line, you cannot get full 4K going thru your Onkyo...


----------



## c.kingsley

WynsWrld98 said:


> ...would Epson adding a 18 GB HDMI chip in their next projector (e.g., 5050/6050) make a significant difference with the compatibility issues?


Yes. In reality the answer is: it depends. What are you trying to accomplish?


----------



## c.kingsley

Nexgen76 said:


> Okay so help me understand....Because I got RS400 and it appears to be dim watching 4K with HDR isn't the 5040 brighter this is living room conditions but I have blackout curtains. Also 10gb chipset vs 18 chipset what the issues behind that all I want to do is watch blu-ray & UHD Blu-ray and stream 4K from nexflix.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk


Out of the box the 5040 is indeed brighter. You'll need the Philips or Panasonic player for UHD 4:2:2. It will do Netflix at 4K SDR because of 10.2gbps.


----------



## dholmes54

Thx dvdwilly3! Now I've got to think about how much of a loss I'll take selling my 6020 if I decide to get the 6040.


----------



## gnolivos

Is the PS4 Pro a good choice for 4K streaming in the 5040/6040? I like the idea of using this as a player because of historically frequent updates.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

c.kingsley said:


> Out of the box the 5040 is indeed brighter. You'll need the Philips or Panasonic player for UHD 4:2:2. It will do Netflix at 4K SDR because of 10.2gbps.




so Philips Netflix app can do HDR? I thought it's app limitation not projector


----------



## WynsWrld98

c.kingsley said:


> Yes. In reality the answer is: it depends. What are you trying to accomplish?


The most 4K HDR compatibility I can get with the most source devices.


----------



## c.kingsley

ana_moo_ana said:


> so Philips Netflix app can do HDR? I thought it's app limitation not projector


Disclaimer: I have the standard Netflix so I can't test this. But, if the content was 4k24 and Netflix outputs 24Hz, HDR could be supported. Whether it actually works, I can't say. If the content is 4k60 it will always be limited to 4k60 4:2:0 8bit SDR when paired with this projector.


----------



## c.kingsley

WynsWrld98 said:


> The most 4K HDR compatibility I can get with the most source devices.


Then 18gbps is what you need.


----------



## chiltonj

Does anyone have DirectTV with the 5040/6040 and on football games have blur around football players specifically from the wider shots? And the image is very soft. Closeups are great, movies are great (both DirectTV and Philips blu rays) so I'm guessing the cameras used for wider shots arent that good or the signal from DirectTV is too compressed and not that good.
I'm going direct through my receiver and with 4k enhancement on. 


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

I just found out that the 6040 doesn't come with 3d glasses,how much are they? Also been looking at the classifieds and used 6020 went selling very well & I hate dealing with eBay.


----------



## gnolivos

Can someone with a PS4 or PS4PRO test whether you can control the console with a universal IR Remote (such as Harmony) *via HDMI CEC protocol*? I think Sony calls this HDMI LINK.


----------



## exm

dholmes54 said:


> I just found out that the 6040 doesn't come with 3d glasses,how much are they? Also been looking at the classifieds and used 6020 went selling very well & I hate dealing with eBay.


I used to own the 3020, which came with ELPGS03 3D glasses. I tested them and they work find with the 6040 (I have a pair listed on eBay).


----------



## sddp

chiltonj said:


> As more of a lamen here who just wants a good picture and doesn't understand half the stuff that's posted here, I agree with kingsley and recently posted that I enjoyed star trek with hdr1 and mad max fury road without hdr. I just don't like having to mess with settings during the first five minutes of every movie to get it to my liking.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk




It's like you need a PhD in Hdmiology


----------



## sddp

dholmes54 said:


> I just found out that the 6040 doesn't come with 3d glasses,how much are they? Also been looking at the classifieds and used 6020 went selling very well & I hate dealing with eBay.






I tested it with my Mitsubisho Xpand 105 and worked perfectly. Any Active RF 3D glasses should work like the XPAND 3D Glasses Lite IR/RF.


However I am going to buy Epsons own 3D glasses and compare if the shutters are faster and dim less. Since actives reduce light by around %20


----------



## Dandlj

MaximTre said:


> Yeah, it would also seems very unlikely for epson to put a limited bandwidth hdmi port in a 2016 projector, but we know how it went.
> 
> Good news is bandwith is there using wireless, epson just has to unlock the locked resolutions, but those interested have to raise their voices, or it won't happen.




I wonder if Epson watch these threads for feedback or just watch their sales figures?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dandlj

MaximTre said:


> You are completely right, but unfortunately that's the situation right now.




When JVC release their new models in Jan then it might give Epson a nudge.

Epson did a great job with this projector and it has won awards and great reviews, however they've limited its connectivity. It would be interesting to know why they did this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs everyone,I meant to say the used Epson 6020 aren't selling here very well.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Do you need to buy a separate module to use 3D with the 6040/5040? TIA


----------



## trainfan

chiltonj said:


> Does anyone have DirectTV with the 5040/6040 and on football games have blur around football players specifically from the wider shots? And the image is very soft. Closeups are great, movies are great (both DirectTV and Philips blu rays) so I'm guessing the cameras used for wider shots arent that good or the signal from DirectTV is too compressed and not that good.
> I'm going direct through my receiver and with 4k enhancement on.



Yes I have DirectTV and watched sunday ticket all day, the wide shots are not using the greatest cameras plus with the fast action they are using massive compression to be able to broadcast it live.
Believe it would look the same no matter your provider, until they start using better cameras.


----------



## McBadden

dotorg said:


> I was really shocked when I took it out of the box how big it was -- and the 5030 was big to begin with. The 5030 is 18x15x6" (approx) and 18lbs. The 5040 is closer to 21x18x7", and is 24lbs, so its about 3" bigger each way in footprint, and an inch taller. The 5030 seemed "big". The 5040 seems "massive" -- enough so that everyone who had been in the old home theater and the new commented on it when they first saw it.
> 
> The specs on how loud it is suggest it should be quieter, but I suspect that depends where you're sitting relative to it. Both my old house and new house had it mounted directly above the primary seating location. The 5030 was about six inches lower relative to your head when sitting there. The 5040, however, on "mid" or "low" has about the same audible fan noise as the 5030 had on high, at that location. Its possible there's a difference in where sound is projected from it -- out the top vs out the front, or something. In my case, its quite a bit louder.
> 
> The iris, I'd say, is about the same, but I tended to run both with it off because I don't like how the brightness fades up and down on sudden brightness changes. I play a lot of games on it, and that can be very distracting.


I guess I'm just not that concerned with its size or weight. It's not as if I have to hold it. As far as loudness is concerned, I haven't found it to be distracting at all and I'm sitting pretty much right underneath it. But this is my first projector, so my perspective is probably different from others. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdwilly3

dholmes54 said:


> I just found out that the 6040 doesn't come with 3d glasses,how much are they? Also been looking at the classifieds and used 6020 went selling very well & I hate dealing with eBay.


These work very well and are about 1/2 the price of the Epson 3d glasses...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWERZN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Actually, Ther are some Samsung glasses that work pretty well at BB for less than $20.

I have both...I would get the 3D Active...the first ones above...


----------



## Dandlj

trainfan said:


> Yes I have DirectTV and watched sunday ticket all day, the wide shots are not using the greatest cameras plus with the fast action they are using massive compression to be able to broadcast it live.
> Believe it would look the same no matter your provider, until they start using better cameras.




Apparently they use HD cameras for the close up shots and non HD for the wide shots


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## McBadden

chiltonj said:


> Does anyone have DirectTV with the 5040/6040 and on football games have blur around football players specifically from the wider shots? And the image is very soft. Closeups are great, movies are great (both DirectTV and Philips blu rays) so I'm guessing the cameras used for wider shots arent that good or the signal from DirectTV is too compressed and not that good.
> I'm going direct through my receiver and with 4k enhancement on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I have DirecTV and have noticed some of this blur and softness you describe. It seems to be especially noticeable during the wide, telephoto shots. Then when the camera shifts to another angle everything looks nice and sharp again. Doesn't always happen, but when it does it is noticeable. I chalk it up to the camera equipment used by the broadcasters. Did not notice it tonight watching the Sunday night Packers ******* game on NBC. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

Agreed....You just need glasses, and do not have to buy a separate emitter, like with JVCs. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## McBadden

Smarty-pants said:


> Do you need to buy a separate module to use 3D with the 6040/5040? TIA


I don't know what you mean by "module". I didn't buy any extra equipment other than cheap Samsung SSG-5100GB 3D HD TV Active Glasses off Amazon and they work great for me. Other than arriving with mostly dead batteries that is. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Smarty-pants

Ronman79 said:


> Agreed....You just need glasses, and do not have to buy a separate emitter, like with JVCs.
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Thanks for the helpful post.
I will likely be buying the 5040 within the next couple days.
Nice to know if I finally decide to try 3D at home, all I need are the glasses.


----------



## ac388

dvdwilly3 said:


> I don't think so. When I did the 105 upgrade on mine, the actual upgrade file was within a zipped file. When you unzip the zipped file, there are several files in several folders. And, once unzipped, that file was about 2 subfolders down.
> 
> The pj would not recognize the file at that level. It would not deal with it until I moved the file up to the root directory of the USB drive. As soon as I did that, it launched into thenupdate routine without any drama.


Noted with thanks. Still don't know what's that USB slot is for ?


----------



## Ronman79

Smarty-pants said:


> Thanks for the helpful post.
> I will likely be buying the 5040 within the next couple days.
> Nice to know if I finally decide to try 3D at home, all I need are the glasses.


Congrats, and you're very welcome. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## mercuryyy

trainfan said:


> Yes I have DirectTV and watched sunday ticket all day, the wide shots are not using the greatest cameras plus with the fast action they are using massive compression to be able to broadcast it live.
> Believe it would look the same no matter your provider, until they start using better cameras.


Im actually seeing some great image from xfinity X1 im also using HD Fury to do the upscaling instead of the epsons internal upscaling i find it MUCH MUCH MUCH better. seeing a pretty good picture on CBS sunday football


----------



## sibyy

mercuryyy said:


> I own the 5040ub i didnt even know the ube will support a higher 4k format. I FIND IT RIDICULOUS that epson does not support 18 gbps and then they dont even support 12 bit 4:4:4 on the UB only on the wireless UBE. *WHY DO YOU ADVERTISE FULL 4K WITH HDR THEN!!!
> 
> *i WAS about to return it to amazon today and get a jvc x950r which suppports ALL THE 4K FORMATS but then i find out its lag time is 100-120ms compared to epson's 30-50 for online gaming. But its motion flow is much better then the epsons. SO MANY DAM TRADE OFFS



I couldn't agree more. There are TV sets that cost a fraction of what this projector sells for (I have a Samsung KS7000 myself) and accept an 18gbps connection and were're here troubleshooting this projector to work with our HDR/10bit sources. Absolutely ridiculous.

I knew this was faux 4K but now I have to pretty much give up on 10bit or HDR too from my sources - Nvidia Shield.
Not the step up from last generation that I was expecting.


----------



## chiltonj

Thanks all, I didn't notice on the Packers Redskins either. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdwilly3

ac388 said:


> Noted with thanks. Still don't know what's that USB slot is for ?


Unzip the downloaded file on your computer.

Copy the update file onto a USB drive (thumb drive).

Plug the USB drive into the USB slot on the projector. Follow the directions on the PDF that was part of the zipped file set.


----------



## NoTechi

*Epson response*

Hi all,

just want to add that I am pretty unhappy with the HDR situation as well.

I contacted German Epson support but the feedback was basicly that it is in the responsibility of the player developers to ensure everything is working as intended since Epson would have their interface done according international standards. As special case he mentioned the xbox one s would be more a pc where he can't see a solution coming soon.
In other words at least according to this German Epson support they are not even looking at the problem at Epson since its a player problem....

I for one now have two devices (the Epson and the xbox) which both claim 4k hdr support and I just get hdr on UHD and this just to the fact that I have the wireless version. No games nor streaming services like Netflix in HDR. Pretty sad.

Btw is anyone able to get Netflix/Amazon in 4k and HDR on any player? From my understanding this is not possible by any player due to the 60Hz from Netflix/Amazon right?

NoTechi


----------



## gnolivos

Honestly everyone should call Epson support and complain about the HDR situation. Have them open a ticket. If they get 100 calls they WILL investigate further. That's how it works.


----------



## hatlesschimp

A video looking at the Image Enhancement Presets and also showing some different aspect ratios.


----------



## evoZip

gec5741 said:


> Hmm that's a good question. I want to say off hand with the back foot of my 5030 an inch or 2 from the edge ( like to keep it as far back without danger of it falling off) I'd probably say I have a good 3 inches or so of play from the front feet to edge of the shelf. Let me see if I can look up the dimensions of the shelf I used. I can also look tonight first hand and get definite measurements. The other benefit to that shelf you would have over having the pj in the wall is no heat issues.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: This the exact shelf I have in my room. https://www.amazon.ca/OmniMount-ECSB-Component-Shelf-Accessories/dp/B000EGI7V4
> 
> P.S. thanks for the kind words on my build. It's been a labor of love for sure!


No problem man! Definitely can see how much thought/work went into it! Thankfully the house I just bought came with a finished basement...just needs some tweaks to get it to where I want. The dimensions are exactly what I would have done if building from scratch, but I think it'll work!

I'm optimistic it will fit then. My 5040 will be here today (missed the delivery Friday  ) and putting in the order for the shelf today, will be here by wednesday. 

Need to get the materials to build the component shelving still, and actually put the screen up on the wall. Things should be functional by a Friday gathering and hopefully building the shelving won't take too long lol


----------



## dotorg

NoTechi said:


> Hi all,
> 
> In other words at least according to this German Epson support they are not even looking at the problem at Epson since its a player problem....


He's not wrong, broadly speaking. The projector *does* implement the standards, and does it correctly. It announces what it can support, it negotiates among the things it can supports, and it works when there's something agreed upon. The problem the Epson has is that "what it can support" is ridiculously limited, partly because of the 10.2gbit chipset vs 18gbit, and partly because Epson is deliberately blocking formats that would work -- particularly on the wireless connection. 

That said, Microsoft, in this case, is 100% in the wrong. The problem with the XB1S is that it won't negotiate *at all*. For a given display scenario, there's one and only one combination of settings it'll agree to. Either your device works with it, or you don't get that option. If you want HDR, you need 4K60P, 10-bit, 4:2:0, with BT2020. Anything even slightly off, no HDR support. The non-HDR 4K gaming has its specific requirement, the UHD BluRay player has its specific requirement for SDR and HDR (which, stupidly, is greater than what the disks support!). 

So they're right -- Microsoft has to fix it. But I would be absolutely floored if they did. This is a problem that does *not* impact 99.99% of the 4K HDR-compatible displays out there, in terms of shipped units. The fact that Epson doesn't support the formats the XB1S support doesn't matter to Microsoft -- you would never burn tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars in up-front and ongoing development costs for a market that may consist of a few thousand or low ten thousand number of units. Those resources are better spent on things that millions or tens of millions will use. The only way I see this getting fixed is if a GPM or higher in that business group buys a 5040 and gets pissed about it not working and pulls rank.

Edit: the one thing I could see them fixing is the 4K HDR format used for BluRay disks -- because its "wrong" currently, and making it "right" is a small effort and you'd have one "correct" setting, not two or more different settings like you'd need to fix and test in perpetuity with the gaming problem. That'd make it work at least for UHD disks over the wired connection.


----------



## gnolivos

hatlesschimp said:


> A video looking at the Image Enhancement Presets and also showing some different aspect ratios.
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/J7WxsHUmNgg




Thanks. Nice video. 

One comment I will make, is your assertion that 4K enhancement doesn't make a difference, is incorrect. If you search through my posts on this thread early on, you will find some screenshots detailing the difference very clearly. It does add some perceived detail. Also, without a doubt it increases the pixel fill rate as well. That proved to be beneficial for me, where my acoustically transparent screen would show moire at 1080, but not with the 4K enhancement!


----------



## dvdwilly3

dotorg said:


> He's not wrong, broadly speaking. The projector *does* implement the standards, and does it correctly. It announces what it can support, it negotiates among the things it can supports, and it works when there's something agreed upon. The problem the Epson has is that "what it can support" is ridiculously limited, partly because of the 10.2gbit chipset vs 18gbit, and partly because Epson is deliberately blocking formats that would work -- particularly on the wireless connection.
> 
> That said, Microsoft, in this case, is 100% in the wrong. The problem with the XB1S is that it won't negotiate *at all*. For a given display scenario, there's one and only one combination of settings it'll agree to. Either your device works with it, or you don't get that option. If you want HDR, you need 4K60P, 10-bit, 4:2:0, with BT2020. Anything even slightly off, no HDR support. The non-HDR 4K gaming has its specific requirement, the UHD BluRay player has its specific requirement for SDR and HDR (which, stupidly, is greater than what the disks support!).
> 
> So they're right -- Microsoft has to fix it. But I would be absolutely floored if they did. This is a problem that does *not* impact 99.99% of the 4K HDR-compatible displays out there, in terms of shipped units. The fact that Epson doesn't support the formats the XB1S support doesn't matter to Microsoft -- you would never burn tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars in up-front and ongoing development costs for a market that may consist of a few thousand or low ten thousand number of units. Those resources are better spent on things that millions or tens of millions will use. The only way I see this getting fixed is if a GPM or higher in that business group buys a 5040 and gets pissed about it not working and pulls rank.
> 
> Edit: the one thing I could see them fixing is the 4K HDR format used for BluRay disks -- because its "wrong" currently, and making it "right" is a small effort and you'd have one "correct" setting, not two or more different settings like you'd need to fix and test in perpetuity with the gaming problem. That'd make it work at least for UHD disks over the wired connection.


You know I see people repeatedly jumping on Epson over using the limited 10.2 chipset. It is somewhat limited, but really...how much?

Sony in its flagship full 4K projectors, for example, the Sony VPL-665ES, msrp $15,000, is using that same 10.2 chipset.

A little perspective...people should not get so excited over it. 

Having said that, I do think that Epson, and anyone else cranking out projectors, TVs, bluray/UHD players, etc. should all comply what have been established as UHD format standards, period. See "...4K HDR format hsed for BluRay disks..." above...

Otherwise, they are not much of a standard, are they?


----------



## hatlesschimp

gnolivos said:


> Thanks. Nice video.
> 
> One comment I will make, is your assertion that 4K enhancement doesn't make a difference, is incorrect. If you search through my posts on this thread early on, you will find some screenshots detailing the difference very clearly. It does add some perceived detail. Also, without a doubt it increases the pixel fill rate as well. That proved to be beneficial for me, where my acoustically transparent screen would show moire at 1080, but not with the 4K enhancement!


LOL, What I done was cut off a bit of voice over of me saying "in my opinion" it does nothing, and I actually grabbed the wrong bit of audio too now looking at it. The QA/QC should be fired for this! Also I should have elaborated a touch more on it but didn't want to drag on too much. I am continually exploring the projector and trying things I will revisit this and a few other things in future videos. Thanks for noticing that btw but for my wall it really had no effect and the image enhanment presets are way more pronounced. Also like you I will soon have a AT screen and will have to mitigate that moire effect however I can with settings and making sure the material is installed at 15 degrees to the frame. I will have to go back and see your findings cheers!
Another video I have to do is compare the JVC to the Epson. Many people asking about it and its hard to help people because everyone has different tastes and expectations from a projector.


----------



## dotorg

dvdwilly3 said:


> Sony in its flagship full 4K projectors, for example, the Sony VPL-665ES, msrp $15,000, is using that same 10.2 chipset.
> 
> A little perspective...people should not get so excited over it.


You should go read the owner threads for it -- they're full of people with the same compatibility problems, for the same reason. Two wrongs don't make a right, and the owners who are trying to use them outside of dedicated home theaters where only movies are watched are having the same issues.


----------



## hatlesschimp

dotorg said:


> You should go read the owner threads for it -- they're full of people with the same compatibility problems, for the same reason. Two wrongs don't make a right, and the owners who are trying to use them outside of dedicated home theaters where only movies are watched are having the same issues.


Not much can be done. Bleeding edge technology will always burn in someway our pockets or our brains with buyers remorse. I have a Sony 4k TV from 2012 and It was the first 4K tv they produced but it couldnt do 4K @ 60hz via HDMI 1.4a now years later they patched it and I can get 4k @ 60hz but 8bit. These companies do it all the time and its all about saving a dollar in some way or making a dollar. It will never change. Once upon a time Sony was the Pinnacle Electronics company now they somehow stay afloat even though they are in the red.


----------



## MaximTre

As we are discussing about compatibilty,a small recap (with added details) on the wireless findings. It was HDFury to brings this up, check the Linker thread if interested.

From the projector teardown (credits to cine4home.de), it has been noticed that:
- The direct HDMI input to the projector is limited by the SIL9679 chipset. That means a limited bandwidth HDMI port (300mhz), and compatbility problems. No software fix is possible as it's an hardware limitation.
- The radio connection, on the other hand, runs via the SIL9777 (both in the projector and in the transmitter), which actually allow full HDMI2.0 to 18Gbit (600mhz). The bottleneck is the radio connection, which does not support the full data rate at 60Hz. NOTE: wired and wireless are completely separated, so wired can't bottleneck wireless.
While wireless can't support a full 600mhz connection due to radio connection limitation, it already supports a 450mhz connection, as stated in Epson Official Papers and as fully proven to be true by user tests (credits to HDFury for the finding): 4K/30Hz/4:4:4/12bit means 450mhz support, and it's there. NOTE: I'll repeat, 450mhz support is already there, 4K/30Hz/4:4:4/12bit works out of the box via wireless.

The problem is, the only 450mhz supported resolution is 4K/30Hz/4:4:4/12bit, which is borderline useless. So why not supporting 4K/60Hz/4:2:0/10bit (371mhz bandwidth) or the 4K/60Hz/4:2:0/12bit (450mhz bandwidth) or other resolutions as well (within 450mhz limit)?
Those resolutions are fare more useful to the users and will add value to the projector, balancing the big downside of the (not advertised) limited bandwidth hdmi port (which can't be fixed due to hardware limitation, as said), greatly enhancing compatibility and image quality (it could mean using a 10 bit signal instead of a 8bit one on 4k resolutions, eg. PS4Pro).
Right now the wireless solution is acting (nearly) as the wired one, and there's no reason for that.
As it's purely a software limitation, not an hardware one, it could be fixed.

So it's up to us to ask epson to fix the problem, and up to epson to really fix it, but I encourage you to contact Epson, or nothing will change.


----------



## mercuryyy

dvdwilly3 said:


> You know I see people repeatedly jumping on Epson over using the limited 10.2 chipset. It is somewhat limited, but really...how much?
> 
> Sony in its flagship full 4K projectors, for example, the Sony VPL-665ES, msrp $15,000, is using that same 10.2 chipset.
> 
> A little perspective...people should not get so excited over it.
> 
> Having said that, I do think that Epson, and anyone else cranking out projectors, TVs, bluray/UHD players, etc. should all comply what have been established as UHD format standards, period. See "...4K HDR format hsed for BluRay disks..." above...
> 
> Otherwise, they are not much of a standard, are they?


JVC DLA line are alll support 18 gpbs


----------



## DrDon

Bickering and condescending remarks removed.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Epson should fix the bandwidth issue by offering free upgrade to the hardware (by sending the projector in and they replacing it) to support 18Gbps. Yes, just a dream, but if Denon could do it (to upgrade 7200W to HDCP 2.2), why can't Epson.


----------



## dholmes54

What kind of firmware update does the 5040-6040 need? What does it improve?


----------



## NoTechi

> The only way I see this getting fixed is if a GPM or higher in that business group buys a 5040 and gets pissed about it not working and pulls rank.


Lets buy him one :laugh:

I would at least expect a official statement from Epson to the situation and if they are going to do something about it (e.g. to open up the limitations on wireless) or not (like the German Epson support told me). Thats the minimum they should do if they care about their customers.

NoTechi


----------



## gnolivos

Amazon prime has the 5040 for $200 less than typical pricing.


----------



## mutiger

I waited for the 5040UB to go on sale and as soon as it did, I ordered it. After reading all this, I canceled the order since thankfully Amazon hadn't shipped yet. I'm bummed, but I guess I'll stick with my aging AE7000 a bit longer. I appreciate all the early adopters reporting their findings on this forum. This is still an excellent projector, but when hardly anything supports it's very narrowly defined 4K/HDR spec, I can't see how it's built for the future when it barely supports the present. Epson is so close to making the ideal mid-range faux K projector but I'm afraid they cut one too many corners on this thing. 

And I'm sorry, but who really wants their projector to be white? I don't get that at all. My theater is entirely black. I'd have to paint this thing and void the warranty or get gouged another $1k for the black version, which there's no way I'd do. Maybe with the lights off it's not that noticeable?


----------



## aaranddeeman

mutiger said:


> I waited for the 5040UB to go on sale and as soon as it did, I ordered it. After reading all this, I canceled the order since thankfully Amazon hadn't shipped yet. I'm bummed, but I guess I'll stick with my aging AE7000 a bit longer. I appreciate all the early adopters reporting their findings on this forum. This is still an excellent projector, but when hardly anything supports it's very narrowly defined 4K/HDR spec, I can't see how it's built for the future when it barely supports the present. Epson is so close to making the ideal mid-range faux K projector but I'm afraid they cut one too many corners on this thing.
> 
> And I'm sorry, but who really wants their projector to be white? I don't get that at all. My theater is entirely black. I'd have to paint this thing and void the warranty or get gouged another $1k for the black version, which there's no way I'd do. Maybe with the lights off it's not that noticeable?


I believe Epson supports the required UHD spec.

Up to 4K resolution
4:2:0 color sub-sampling
Up to 10 bit color
Up to 60 frames per second
Support for wide color gamuts (REC.2020)
Support for HDR10 and Dolby Vision
No 3D support
HDCP2.2

The complete article : http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/


----------



## sgranger45

*Perspective on 5040 shortcomings (or not)*

I've been reading all the posts on the shortcomings of the Epson 5040/6040 projector because of the limitations on supporting a higher bandwidth implementation of their chipset. I am writing my response to others like me who may be reading this thread and trying to decide what to buy.

First, my place in the A/V fanatic food chain. Somewhere above amateur/novice and somewhere way below audio/videophile. I usually buy in the high mid-range price point for A/V, computers, cameras, etc. Being a technology entrepreneur, I understand the cost/performance/capability curve. It's a hockey stick that goes almost vertical once you get to the 96 or 97% point. I try and stay right below that trajectory. OK. So that's me.

_*This was my first projector.*_ I always had "big TV's" but I wanted to move to "an experience" system (meaning coming over to watch a movie on an 80" TV isn't and experience but a 120" screen is!). In addition to the 5040UBe, I paired it with a STR-169120-G Silver Ticket 120 inch 1.0 gain grey material screen, Yamaha RX-A1050 AV Receiver, Roku Ultra and Phillips BDP-7501 Ultra HD Blue-ray player (so Merry Christmas to me!).

I've had a few learning curves to get through with calibrating the colors etc. (thanks to this forum for tons of help) and have a couple of quirky things hanging out there (the Roku Ultra has a known problem where it has to be rebooted every time you go to Netflix for UltraHD content to show up). But for the most part, everything works well.

*Now for perspective* - this projector looks amazing to me. It looks amazing to my friends, my wife, my kids and just about everyone who sees it. I show them 1080P content upscaled though the Yamaha - looks awesome! Show them UltraHD content on Netflix - looks awesome (some say looks better than 1080P but most just say awesome). Show them Ultra HD HDR through Phillips player (Creed DVD that came with it) - looks awesome again! 

I do the "ok, look at this (Ultra HD) and now look at this! (Ultra HD HDR)" People say - "they both look awesome!" I say "but which one looks better!?" half say A, half say B. I love to fiddle with settings and calibration and every once in a while I find some setting that really makes a noticeable difference, but mostly, it's just my hobby to play around with it.

_If you are similar to me - buy this projector and you won't be disappointed._

Now, I am sure if I wait, something better will come along. Next year, I'll feel stupid for buying the 5040 because the 5050 or 5060 will be out with support for 18 Gbps UHD. But wait! By then, there will be rumors that the 5070 supporting 8K is just around the corner. And there will be 2 or 3 other things "just around the corner" that I should wait for. But, you know what, it's a $3,000 projector. Not a $30,000 projector. (BTW, if you want to spend 20 or 30K on a projector - I'm quite sure you can get your 18 GBPS data rate right now!). In a couple of years, if something revolutionary is on the market, I'll dump the 5040 on Craigslist for $1,000 and spend $3K to get the new thing. It's not going to be a life changing event to eat the 2K. 

But in the meantime, I will enjoy the heck out of College football, NFL playoffs, March Madness, Family movie nights, Date night movies with the wife, and the thousand other times I use it instead of waiting. If I divide the net $2k it may cost me against the number of events I watch, it's pennies.

So again, if you are an audio/videophile, you are probably on the wrong thread to start with. If you have a 5020 or 5030, you might want to hold out. If you are similar to my situation and share a similar perspective on the role of A/V in your personal life, this is an excellent projector and you won't be disappointed (except in your friends inability to discern the HDR color palette when it is so obvious to you!


----------



## dholmes54

These days there's always better projectors,avrs,spks, and blu-ray players just around the corner, you buy something and then a better one comes out! Got to be happy what you got or can afford.I want to thank everyone for answering my questions on the 6040,I found a dealer 50 miles away that can get me one way better than msrp,I can save 25% on a new 6040.Would my Epson 6020 with total of only 120 hrs on it ,mount,spare bulb,& glasses be worth 1200.00?Hope I didn't break any rules asking that. PS I'll add a darbee 5000 with it.


----------



## mutiger

sgranger45 said:


> Now, I am sure if I wait, something better will come along. Next year, I'll feel stupid for buying the 5040 because the 5050 or 5060 will be out with support for 18 Gbps UHD.



You won't feel stupid, nor will you have any regret. For somebody without a projector, this one is a no-brainer. For those of us that already have a decent 1080p solution but wanting to venture into 4K, it's not as simple. I'm looking for any excuse to upgrade, but I'm afraid I would regret this one. And that white case will mock me every time I walk into my theater. But hey, congrats on an awesome setup!


----------



## nickoakdl

People speculating that Epson will release a 5050 next year need keep in mind that the 5030 was released 3 years ago.

It took them 3 years to release its successor.

A 5050 is not coming next year.


----------



## little_donkey

I think there is a lot of drama on these forums like in every forum.
The problem is not so bad as anyone seems to think.

I bought the Epson TW9300 (eu. version of the 5040) 
I'm coming from a Sony HW55(still fan) and before that a JVC RS15
Reading these forums with the whole HDMI/HDR/18gbps problem I thought, damn i bought the wrong Projector.
The Sony I had before was a fantastic projector. But I wanted to upgrade for the HDR, 4k and the Motorized lens. 

So I started experimenting myself with the whole 4k/HDR stuff.
I'm also a gamer, so for me reason nr1 that i bought a Epson was also because i Game.
So no go for the JVC.
I had a difficult choice at first, because I was ready to buy a JVC x5000. But then reading about the HDMI handshake/switching/long wait to get an image and low input lag( and also expensive replacement lamps). I remembered why I was so happy that I went from a JVC to a Sony. No more long waiting to get an image or scrambled image. Second problem Lamp cost.

So now back to the Epson. I tried the PS4 Pro after reading all these horror stories.
One thing to know is that HDR on a projector is not impressive at all. Can't compare to a LCD ( I have a Sony XD85, HDR is fantastic on it) So I knew that buying a projector with HDR i would never get the same effect. Same with JVC x5000. I wasn't impressed at all. 
Because I'm waiting my new Yamaha receiver I wanted to test the HDR and 4K

So PS4 Pro directly to the Epson
Resolution automatically to 4k, nice!
Then I tried my first HDR game Ratchet and Clank. I get a message that the screen only support HDR in 1080p. So i said ok. Let's see what this HDR is all about.
And I had very dark Picture, putting the HDR to HDR mode 1 fixed it. And went also to Bright Cinema. Now we have a nice HDR picture. I disabled HDR on PS4 and tried the game again.
Projector show only 4k resolution but 8 bit. So no HDR.
And what I saw was a even better image then the 1080 HDR image.

Same with Uncharted 4 and first Light. 1080p in HDR and 4K without.

So to say the truth I prefered the 4k resolution then the HDR.
So yeah I know it would have been better to have both 4K and HDR.
But like I said before, I'm not that impressed with HDR on a projector compared to a LCD. 
The same games on my Sony LCD were breathtaking.

So for me I made the good choice for the Epson, absolute fantastic image, input lag is very low and 4k with the ps4 pro is fantastic. If you want HDR, just play the game in 1080P and you will still have a fantastic image with HDR.

The problem with the UHD players not showing HDR, haven't tried but from what I understand it's more a problem with the player itself. UHD standard is 4:2:0 so if your player sends 4:4:4 then I think it's better to send emails to the Player manufactured to fix the player with a firmware. 
To my understanding, Philips and Panasonic have no problems showing 4K with HDR on the Epson.
So better to email Microsoft and Samsung to fix their uhd players. 

So that's my input.
So if I have to say something negative about the Epson then it's the screendoor effect. Its not that bad compared to older models but still there. 
Sorry for my English and long post, it's not my native language


----------



## Threefiddie

nickoakdl said:


> People speculating that Epson will release a 5050 next year need keep in mind that the 5030 was released 3 years ago.
> 
> It took them 3 years to release its successor.
> 
> A 5050 is not coming next year.


means nothing

only epson knows.


----------



## gnolivos

I know many will scoff at the idea, but sometimes I like to take a 2.35:1 movie and zoom via aspect ratio menu to fill my 16:9 screen. It leaves left and right with image displayed but I can mask that physically or via digital masking. 

Anyhow, this is something my 8 yr old projector managed just fine via digital zooming. With the 5040 it cannot perform this function because via HDMI all such options are greyed out (if even available). Optical zoom can achieve this for me except that there isn't enough range to fill screen in my setup. 

Any alternatives?


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> I know many will scoff at the idea, but sometimes I like to take a 2.35:1 movie and zoom via aspect ratio menu to fill my 16:9 screen. It leaves left and right with image displayed but I can mask that physically or via digital masking.
> 
> Anyhow, this is something my 8 yr old projector managed just fine via digital zooming. With the 5040 it cannot perform this function because via HDMI all such options are greyed out (if even available). Optical zoom can achieve this for me except that there isn't enough range to fill screen in my setup.
> 
> Any alternatives?


But you would lose about 30% of the image by doing that. Don't you?
I believe 6040 can do what you are looking for, not 5040.


----------



## chiltonj

I went from the 6030 to the 6040 and the PQ is better. WOW factor better? No. 
No regrets though because I paid less than $1,200 to upgrade with ~3 yrs and ~1,500 hours of 6030 use. 
I believe the 6040 will hold its resale value just like my previous Epson models have done, 18Gbps or not. 
PS something better always comes along...
PSS A 5050/6050 won't come out in a long time. But, you'll probably see newer JVC and Sony models come out before the 5050. Pretty soon, we'll all have projector-less big screen TVs anyway. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## PioManiac

aaranddeeman said:


> But you would lose about 30% of the image by doing that. Don't you?
> I believe 6040 can do what you are looking for, not 5040.


I can't comprehend why anyone would want to do that?






































​
Do you get 30% off the price of your movies if you don't use all of it?


----------



## mutiger

Threefiddie said:


> means nothing
> 
> only epson knows.


I agree. Somebody said Epson never discounted their newer model projectors on Black Friday and a couple days later the 5040UB is $200 cheaper. Three years is an eternity. There is clearly demand for a higher spec'd projector and Epson wouldn't have to do all that much to meet that demand. They have something cool going with their faux K. If cheap 4k TVs can include an 18Gbps chip, why not a mid-range projector? And if they don't somebody else might - although admittedly there really isn't much competition in this space. Sony has nothing. JVC has uhm, nothing if you consider input lag even remotely important. And whatever happened to Panasonic? Yea okay, it might be three years. 

I just now called a local dealer of the 6040UB and he tried to push me into a Sony 55ES which I think is like a three year old projector and has no 4k capability whatsoever. He actually thinks the Sony looks better. I think he's just trying to dump old inventory since he has none of the Epson's in stock. He also thinks pixel shifting is a gimmick (which it obviously is not). Ugh. 

I think if the 5040UBE had the same $200 discount, I'd be a buyer. And why no 6040UBE? I swear if I have to get a white projector I am painting that sucker..or maybe I'll just cover it in electrical tape so it could be removed... haha, I totally would, unless it doesn't look as obnoxious as I think it would. Anybody have one of 5040s hung in a totally black theater?


----------



## gnolivos

mutiger said:


> Anyone have one of 5040s hung in a totally black theater?




I do. It bothers me. It not enough to paint it. And I am very particular about my room. I wish they made black an option for both models. Ugh.


----------



## nickoakdl

little_donkey said:


> So PS4 Pro directly to the Epson
> Resolution automatically to 4k, nice!
> Then I tried my first HDR game Ratchet and Clank. I get a message that the screen only support HDR in 1080p. So i said ok. Let's see what this HDR is all about.
> And I had very dark Picture, putting the HDR to HDR mode 1 fixed it. And went also to Bright Cinema. Now we have a nice HDR picture. I disabled HDR on PS4 and tried the game again.
> Projector show only 4k resolution but 8 bit. So no HDR.
> And what I saw was a even better image then the 1080 HDR image.


How much of an improvement is the 4K from the PS4 Pro over the 1080P? Been debating getting one, but I'm wondering if the improvement is big or small...


----------



## aaranddeeman

PioManiac said:


> I can't comprehend why anyone would want to do that?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you get 30% off the price of your movies if you don't use all of it?


Looking at those actual pictures 30% was a modest guess. It looks more like 40%.
Yeah. I wouldn't do it.. Even if it was 10%


----------



## Threefiddie

nickoakdl said:


> How much of an improvement is the 4K from the PS4 Pro over the 1080P? Been debating getting one, but I'm wondering if the improvement is big or small...


depends on the game as 95% aren't 4k. they are 1080, 1440p or 1800p checkerboarded up to 4k or 1080 upscaled to 4k.


----------



## Dave Harper

mercuryyy said:


> Im actually seeing some great image from xfinity X1 im also using HD Fury to do the upscaling instead of the epsons internal upscaling i find it MUCH MUCH MUCH better. seeing a pretty good picture on CBS sunday football



It can't be that great since "Con"cast began down converting their native 1080i channels to lower resolution 720p, trying to be sneaky while they transitioned to mpeg4/h.264 so they could cram in more crap reality and shopping channels. 

So you're basically down converting native 1080i to 720p (at Comcrap HQ), then it gets sent to your X1 which probably upconverts it again to 1080i/p, then sends it to your hdfury which finally then upconverts it up to 2160p. I'm sorry, but that has to severely affect image quality. 

Enjoy! 

Xfinity, the future of awful.


----------



## exm

mutiger said:


> You won't feel stupid, nor will you have any regret. For somebody without a projector, this one is a no-brainer. For those of us that already have a decent 1080p solution but wanting to venture into 4K, it's not as simple. I'm looking for any excuse to upgrade, but I'm afraid I would regret this one. And that white case will mock me every time I walk into my theater. But hey, congrats on an awesome setup!


I went from a 1080UB to a 3020 to a 6040UB. Wow.


----------



## WynsWrld98

aaranddeeman said:


> Epson should fix the bandwidth issue by offering free upgrade to the hardware (by sending the projector in and they replacing it) to support 18Gbps. Yes, just a dream, but if Denon could do it (to upgrade 7200W to HDCP 2.2), why can't Epson.


I've owned an Epson 6010 and currently an Epson 5030. IMO fantastic bang for the buck, both projectors, which is why when it ended up being upgrade time when 6010 warranty was running out I bought another Epson. I really had/have zero complaints about either projector. And my plan was to upgrade to the 5040 and I'm so thankful for this forum that I got a ton of info to manage my expectations of what the 5040 can do and can't do. The powered zoom/focus/lens shift for my CIH setup is something I've wanted a long time but ofcourse MSRP went up $1K for the extra features incl faux 4K and HDR. Epson chewed off a lot with what features they chose to implement in the 5040/6040 vs. 5030/6030 and as far as I can tell Epson probably didn't even know details of the many source devices re: how they were going to send 4K HDR since it seems many of the source devices like the new Roku series, XBox One S, new Chromecast, etc. didn't even exist when they were designing the 5040/6040. And ofcourse keeping the cost at only $1K above the 5030/6030 would have also been on their mind which is I'm sure why they chose the 10 GB HDMI chip over the 18 GB HDMI chip.

With so many sources providing 4K HDR content including streaming I do want to experience that as well and not have to buy additional hardware like the HDFury Integral/Linker to remove HDR leaving SDR and figure out how to set that up and still not end up with HDR. The best I can tell from the many postings about 4K HDR content on projectors is some content looks good, some too dark and that I'd expect to have to tweak settings based on the specific 4K HDR content I'm watching and not do what I normally do and just have a preset for my DVR and a preset for my Bluray player and never really having to touch them.

I'm sure there is no way in hell Epson is going to offer free upgrades to 18 GB HDMI chips for the 5040/6040.

However, I looked in my crystal ball and I see them offering it in a slightly upgraded 5050/6050 probably announced at CEDIA 9/2017.

*For those saying there is no way in hell 5050/6050 models are coming within a year of the 5040/6040 I looked up the release dates on projectorcentral.com (assuming their info is correct).* Epson introduced the 5010/6010 and one year later introduced the 5020/6020 with very minor changes. Same story between 5020/6020 and 5030/6030 models, only one year between them. If the projectorcentral.com dates are correct I could totally see Epson releasing a 5050/6050 with 18 GB HDMI chip a year after the 5040/6040 introduction. Time will tell how accurate my crystal ball is...

Again thanks for this forum so I was able to make an educated decision whether to upgrade from my 5030 to the 5040 or wait and see if the 5050 is far more compatible with the many 4K HDR sources.


----------



## mercuryyy

Dave Harper said:


> It can't be that great since "Con"cast began down converting their native 1080i channels to lower resolution 720p, trying to be sneaky while they transitioned to mpeg4/h.264 so they could cram in more crap reality and shopping channels.
> 
> So you're basically down converting native 1080i to 720p (at Comcrap HQ), then it gets sent to your X1 which probably upconverts it again to 1080i/p, then sends it to your hdfury which finally then upconverts it up to 2160p. I'm sorry, but that has to severely affect image quality.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> Xfinity, the future of awful.


Your right, but on some channels they actually do full 1080p other are crap. BUT what other choices do i have? DirectTV? same crap Dish? horrible signal


----------



## aaranddeeman

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm sure there is no way in hell Epson is going to offer free upgrades to 18 GB HDMI chips for the 5040/6040.
> 
> However, I looked in my crystal ball and I see them offering it in a slightly upgraded 5050/6050 probably announced at CEDIA 9/2017.


I know. That's why i said "it's a dream".
But having said that, I would like to find the brain behind designing and implementing 18Gbps chip for wireless and 10.2Gbps for wired.
May be they were designing looking into the mirror..


----------



## McBadden

mutiger said:


> I waited for the 5040UB to go on sale and as soon as it did, I ordered it. After reading all this, I canceled the order since thankfully Amazon hadn't shipped yet. I'm bummed, but I guess I'll stick with my aging AE7000 a bit longer. I appreciate all the early adopters reporting their findings on this forum. This is still an excellent projector, but when hardly anything supports it's very narrowly defined 4K/HDR spec, I can't see how it's built for the future when it barely supports the present. Epson is so close to making the ideal mid-range faux K projector but I'm afraid they cut one too many corners on this thing.
> 
> And I'm sorry, but who really wants their projector to be white? I don't get that at all. My theater is entirely black. I'd have to paint this thing and void the warranty or get gouged another $1k for the black version, which there's no way I'd do. Maybe with the lights off it's not that noticeable?


Despite the limitations discussed on this forum, I have found this projector to produce a beautiful image at a cost that is far less than its many impressive capabilities would command from other projectors. While slightly annoyed with some of the compatibility issues, I do not find them to detract from my overall experience, which is overwhelmingly positive. I love this machine and have no buyer's remorse whatsoever. As far as the white color is concerned, I would rather have it in black, but really not a big deal to me. I've just started playing Battlefield 1 on the Xbox one S, and feel like I am experiencing video gaming on a completely new and exciting level. I would have no reservations recommending this projector to anyone other than the most dedicated, hard core purist, who absolutely demanded the best possible performance regardless of price. To someone like me, who recognizes a good picture when they see it, and isn't hung up on what I personally consider to be some of the minutiae that others are concerned with, it is the perfect piece of hardware. 










Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## McBadden

little_donkey said:


> I think there is a lot of drama on these forums like in every forum.
> The problem is not so bad as anyone seems to think.
> 
> I bought the Epson TW9300 (eu. version of the 5040)
> I'm coming from a Sony HW55(still fan) and before that a JVC RS15
> Reading these forums with the whole HDMI/HDR/18gbps problem I thought, damn i bought the wrong Projector.
> The Sony I had before was a fantastic projector. But I wanted to upgrade for the HDR, 4k and the Motorized lens.
> 
> So I started experimenting myself with the whole 4k/HDR stuff.
> I'm also a gamer, so for me reason nr1 that i bought a Epson was also because i Game.
> So no go for the JVC.
> I had a difficult choice at first, because I was ready to buy a JVC x5000. But then reading about the HDMI handshake/switching/long wait to get an image and low input lag( and also expensive replacement lamps). I remembered why I was so happy that I went from a JVC to a Sony. No more long waiting to get an image or scrambled image. Second problem Lamp cost.
> 
> So now back to the Epson. I tried the PS4 Pro after reading all these horror stories.
> One thing to know is that HDR on a projector is not impressive at all. Can't compare to a LCD ( I have a Sony XD85, HDR is fantastic on it) So I knew that buying a projector with HDR i would never get the same effect. Same with JVC x5000. I wasn't impressed at all.
> Because I'm waiting my new Yamaha receiver I wanted to test the HDR and 4K
> 
> So PS4 Pro directly to the Epson
> Resolution automatically to 4k, nice!
> Then I tried my first HDR game Ratchet and Clank. I get a message that the screen only support HDR in 1080p. So i said ok. Let's see what this HDR is all about.
> And I had very dark Picture, putting the HDR to HDR mode 1 fixed it. And went also to Bright Cinema. Now we have a nice HDR picture. I disabled HDR on PS4 and tried the game again.
> Projector show only 4k resolution but 8 bit. So no HDR.
> And what I saw was a even better image then the 1080 HDR image.
> 
> Same with Uncharted 4 and first Light. 1080p in HDR and 4K without.
> 
> So to say the truth I prefered the 4k resolution then the HDR.
> So yeah I know it would have been better to have both 4K and HDR.
> But like I said before, I'm not that impressed with HDR on a projector compared to a LCD.
> The same games on my Sony LCD were breathtaking.
> 
> So for me I made the good choice for the Epson, absolute fantastic image, input lag is very low and 4k with the ps4 pro is fantastic. If you want HDR, just play the game in 1080P and you will still have a fantastic image with HDR.
> 
> The problem with the UHD players not showing HDR, haven't tried but from what I understand it's more a problem with the player itself. UHD standard is 4:2:0 so if your player sends 4:4:4 then I think it's better to send emails to the Player manufactured to fix the player with a firmware.
> To my understanding, Philips and Panasonic have no problems showing 4K with HDR on the Epson.
> So better to email Microsoft and Samsung to fix their uhd players.
> 
> So that's my input.
> So if I have to say something negative about the Epson then it's the screendoor effect. Its not that bad compared to older models but still there.
> Sorry for my English and long post, it's not my native language


I appreciate and agree with your input, and commend you on your excellent English. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> I do. It bothers me. It not enough to paint it. And I am very particular about my room. I wish they made black an option for both models. Ugh.




I do but it doesn't really bother me. I'd certainly prefer black but the pj is ceiling mounted slightly behind the seating area. So when I enter the room with the lights on a white pj doesn't bother me, and when the lights go out I'm looking at a 110" 2.35 screen with an awesome picture, so no reason to look around at the hideous white pj 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

hatlesschimp said:


> A video looking at the Image Enhancement Presets and also showing some different aspect ratios.
> 
> https://youtu.be/J7WxsHUmNgg


Great video, Chimp! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

I'm getting my Home Theater room prepped for the install. For those of you who have the 5040ub mounted on the ceiling where do you have the power outlet installed. left, right, behind? I just want to know what is the cleanest look.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Thanks bro. Im trying to finish off the Oblivion 4k vs 1080p but my kids keep interrupting 😣 funny buggers😁


----------



## ac388

dvdwilly3 said:


> Unzip the downloaded file on your computer.
> 
> Copy the update file onto a USB drive (thumb drive).
> 
> Plug the USB drive into the USB slot on the projector. Follow the directions on the PDF that was part of the zipped file set.


Appreciate your help !


----------



## Ronman79

sgranger45 said:


> I've been reading all the posts on the shortcomings of the Epson 5040/6040 projector because of the limitations on supporting a higher bandwidth implementation of their chipset. I am writing my response to others like me who may be reading this thread and trying to decide what to buy.
> 
> First, my place in the A/V fanatic food chain. Somewhere above amateur/novice and somewhere way below audio/videophile. I usually buy in the high mid-range price point for A/V, computers, cameras, etc. Being a technology entrepreneur, I understand the cost/performance/capability curve. It's a hockey stick that goes almost vertical once you get to the 96 or 97% point. I try and stay right below that trajectory. OK. So that's me.
> 
> _*This was my first projector.*_ I always had "big TV's" but I wanted to move to "an experience" system (meaning coming over to watch a movie on an 80" TV isn't and experience but a 120" screen is!). In addition to the 5040UBe, I paired it with a STR-169120-G Silver Ticket 120 inch 1.0 gain grey material screen, Yamaha RX-A1050 AV Receiver, Roku Ultra and Phillips BDP-7501 Ultra HD Blue-ray player (so Merry Christmas to me!).
> 
> I've had a few learning curves to get through with calibrating the colors etc. (thanks to this forum for tons of help) and have a couple of quirky things hanging out there (the Roku Ultra has a known problem where it has to be rebooted every time you go to Netflix for UltraHD content to show up). But for the most part, everything works well.
> 
> *Now for perspective* - this projector looks amazing to me. It looks amazing to my friends, my wife, my kids and just about everyone who sees it. I show them 1080P content upscaled though the Yamaha - looks awesome! Show them UltraHD content on Netflix - looks awesome (some say looks better than 1080P but most just say awesome). Show them Ultra HD HDR through Phillips player (Creed DVD that came with it) - looks awesome again!
> 
> I do the "ok, look at this (Ultra HD) and now look at this! (Ultra HD HDR)" People say - "they both look awesome!" I say "but which one looks better!?" half say A, half say B. I love to fiddle with settings and calibration and every once in a while I find some setting that really makes a noticeable difference, but mostly, it's just my hobby to play around with it.
> 
> _If you are similar to me - buy this projector and you won't be disappointed._
> 
> Now, I am sure if I wait, something better will come along. Next year, I'll feel stupid for buying the 5040 because the 5050 or 5060 will be out with support for 18 Gbps UHD. But wait! By then, there will be rumors that the 5070 supporting 8K is just around the corner. And there will be 2 or 3 other things "just around the corner" that I should wait for. But, you know what, it's a $3,000 projector. Not a $30,000 projector. (BTW, if you want to spend 20 or 30K on a projector - I'm quite sure you can get your 18 GBPS data rate right now!). In a couple of years, if something revolutionary is on the market, I'll dump the 5040 on Craigslist for $1,000 and spend $3K to get the new thing. It's not going to be a life changing event to eat the 2K.
> 
> But in the meantime, I will enjoy the heck out of College football, NFL playoffs, March Madness, Family movie nights, Date night movies with the wife, and the thousand other times I use it instead of waiting. If I divide the net $2k it may cost me against the number of events I watch, it's pennies.
> 
> So again, if you are an audio/videophile, you are probably on the wrong thread to start with. If you have a 5020 or 5030, you might want to hold out. If you are similar to my situation and share a similar perspective on the role of A/V in your personal life, this is an excellent projector and you won't be disappointed (except in your friends inability to discern the HDR color palette when it is so obvious to you!


Excellent perspective that puts things into perspective... Lol! Nice post. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## little_donkey

nickoakdl said:


> How much of an improvement is the 4K from the PS4 Pro over the 1080P? Been debating getting one, but I'm wondering if the improvement is big or small...


The 4k games are much sharper even if the projector is not true 4k. 
And if you have vr, it's the best you can get. 

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


----------



## achanonier

Hi Guys

First Post here, I'm from France and I'm very Happy with this projector.... as long as I don't use HDR content. 
As many of you experienced the image is way too dark and thus lacks intra image contrast in the mid range compared to SDR.

My hope is now that Epson makes a new firmware as Sony did on its HDR projector --> That's in the firmware release note and users report that it works great...

- Adds 'HDR Contrast' function to Picture Menu (when viewing HDR content) allowing user to adjust the average screen brigtness

Any plans from Epson on this ?


----------



## Skylinestar

mutiger said:


> You won't feel stupid, nor will you have any regret. For somebody without a projector, this one is a no-brainer. For those of us that already have a decent 1080p solution but wanting to venture into 4K, it's not as simple. I'm looking for any excuse to upgrade, but I'm afraid I would regret this one. And that white case will mock me every time I walk into my theater. But hey, congrats on an awesome setup!


Are the Klipsch copper Cerametallic woofers visible when the lights are out?


----------



## little_donkey

achanonier said:


> As many of you experienced the image is way too dark and thus lacks intra image contrast in the mid range compared to SDR.


Did you try hdr mode 1? 


Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


----------



## VLAGAS

achanonier said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> First Post here, I'm from France and I'm very Happy with this projector.... as long as I don't use HDR content.
> As many of you experienced the image is way too dark and thus lacks intra image contrast in the mid range compared to SDR.
> 
> My hope is now that Epson makes a new firmware as Sony did on its HDR projector --> That's in the firmware release note and users report that it works great...
> 
> - Adds 'HDR Contrast' function to Picture Menu (when viewing HDR content) allowing user to adjust the average screen brigtness
> 
> Any plans from Epson on this ?


Hi First post here, I'm 20 and don't have any experience so far with Projectors so incredibly newby post about to go down here - but looking at buying this epson as my first Projector.

Have got the PS4 Pro and came to this forum to see if they play well together. I know that the projector doesn't actually display native 4K but it will output 4k so the PS4 Pro will be outputting the best it can and won't think it's limited to a 1080p display.

A Lot of this stuff is way over my head but I'm trying my best to understand what people have said about gaming on this projector. If someone can please confirm what does and doesn't work with the PS4 Pro

*PS4 Pro on Epson Projector*
4K 60fps Gaming: *Yes*
4K HDR Gaming at 60fps: *No*
4K HDR Gaming at 30fps: *No?*
1080P HDR 60fps: *Yes?*
1080P HDR Gaming with 4k Projector Enhancement turned on: *Yes? (what does this do to input lag?)*
1080P HDR video apps (Netflix / Amazon): *Yes?*
4k HDR video apps (Netflix / Amazon): *No (more to do with the apps then projector?)*

4k HDR from an UHD player: *Surely Yes?*

Other than that I can't find the simplest of information like does 1080P content look worse on a projected 100" image compared to an 1080P LCD 55" image? 

I'm pretty sure the answer is yes the bigger the projected image the worse the quality, and that in general projectors can't quite hold up to what a good tv can do quality wise? But i'm hoping this will be an upgrade over our current 55" 1080p tv and that we won't instantly notice a decrease in quality over the larger image displayed. That instead we will be wowed by the experience and never look back.

I know this is retreading ground already covered but it's hard trying to look through 30 different pages with 10 different people experimenting on 10 different things.


----------



## mutiger

Skylinestar said:


> Are the Klipsch copper Cerametallic woofers visible when the lights are out?


Well, unlike a glaringly obnoxious white beast hanging from the ceiling, I kinda like the copper woofers but if I didn't, at least I can cover them up. I mean come on, does anybody here actually prefer a white projector? Seriously?? I think Epson needs feedback. It's absurd to charge more to get it in the correct color. It's insulting. I don't need a "professional" dealer to hold my hand and gouge me for another $1k to get what I want. And the only "pro" Epson dealer in my town (Columbia, MO), thinks a crappy three year old 1080p Sony is better than the Epson 6040. Yea, like I want that advice.


----------



## Justkidding

Hello everybody,

I am also thinking about buying the Epson 5040 UBe. 
I am from Germany and in German forums lots of people are so much complaining about the "ridiculous bad" frame interpolation capabilities of the new Epson.
After reading a lot in this thread this seems to be not such a big issue in the US.
I am just wondering why.
Is it because in the US most people don't use the frame interpolation at all and thus not care about it?
Or are the german guys just too picky? 
Really interested in your thoughts.

Cheers!


----------



## aaranddeeman

mutiger said:


> Well, unlike a glaringly obnoxious white beast hanging from the ceiling, I kinda like the copper woofers but if I didn't, at least I can cover them up. I mean come on, does anybody here actually prefer a white projector? Seriously?? I think Epson needs feedback. It's absurd to charge more to get it in the correct color. It's insulting. I don't need a "professional" dealer to hold my hand and gouge me for another $1k to get what I want. And the only "pro" Epson dealer in my town (Columbia, MO), thinks a crappy three year old 1080p Sony is better than the Epson 6040. Yea, like I want that advice.


Talk to the dealer. It's not actually $1K difference. You can negotiate for much less. And that added cost makes up for the additions it has.


----------



## mutiger

aaranddeeman said:


> Talk to the dealer. It's not actually $1K difference. You can negotiate for much less. And that added cost makes up for the additions it has.


This dealer is particularly difficult to haggle with and they don't deserve the sale anyway. But, in theory, yes I should be able to get it cheaper - up to 25% off apparently in some places.


----------



## Suppertime24

What is the best mount for the 5040?


I checked with Epson and they said it was model # CHF4000 but that they didn't currently have any to sell. Seems online sellers are also out of this model. 


Thanks.


----------



## c.kingsley

McBadden said:


> Despite the limitations discussed on this forum, I have found this projector to produce a beautiful image at a cost that is far less than its many impressive capabilities would command from other projectors. While slightly annoyed with some of the compatibility issues, I do not find them to detract from my overall experience, which is overwhelmingly positive. I love this machine and have no buyer's remorse whatsoever.


I feel exactly the same. By the way, I love your bar setup in the theater room.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Justkidding said:


> Hello everybody,
> 
> I am also thinking about buying the Epson 5040 UBe.
> I am from Germany and in German forums lots of people are so much complaining about the "ridiculous bad" frame interpolation capabilities of the new Epson.
> After reading a lot in this thread this seems to be not such a big issue in the US.
> I am just wondering why.
> Is it because in the US most people don't use the frame interpolation at all and thus not care about it?
> Or are the german guys just too picky?
> Really interested in your thoughts.
> 
> Cheers!


Ive tried it on and off and had mixed results. Too me it doesnt add enough for me to care about but when it goes pear shape it really goes pear shape. I was doing a recording and I forgot I left it on and had to stop and turn it off because it looked like garbage!


----------



## dotorg

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm getting my Home Theater room prepped for the install. For those of you who have the 5040ub mounted on the ceiling where do you have the power outlet installed. left, right, behind? I just want to know what is the cleanest look.


The power jack in the projector is, conveniently, in the dead center of the bottom of the projector, so its right at the top when hanging. As a result, you can get a very short cord in there -- mine's a 12" power cord, plugged into a power outlet that is about 5" back from the center point of the mount. The mount is bolted into a piece of blocking, and through a piece of strapping. The outlet box was also screwed to the blocking, so the center point of the outlet is less than 2" left of the centerpoint of the mount. 

I'd originally positioned everything assuming I'd be using a 5030 -- the 5040 switch happened after everything was installed. Because its bigger, it'd be a little better if the outlet was an inch or inch and a half farther back, but anywhere near the center line and behind the mount by, say, 6-8" will be fine and keep it above the projector with a very short cord.


----------



## dotorg

mutiger said:


> I mean come on, does anybody here actually prefer a white projector?


White is the new black. I don't believe for a second that people are buying devices because they're white, and I think the opposite is actually true. But, still, white is the trend. TiVo's new units are all white. Microsoft's XB1S is white, and has every damn color available *except* black, it seems. TVs are coming in white. And the worst part is, although polymer sciences are improving with regard to white plastics, they still yellow over time, so things end up looking old unless they're painted white.


----------



## Everdog

*Recap of Xbox 1 S issues?*

I've been reading through this thread and also anything else I could find on Google and I am still confused.


If I buy an Xbox 1 S to go with this projector, what can I expect today? 
Will I be able to steam 4K via Netflix?
Will I be able to play UHD Bluray discs in 4K?


And one bonus question. Does anyone stream 4K from Plex? What do you use. I am open to buying a Chrome Ultra or Roku device.


----------



## mutiger

McBadden said:


> As far as the white color is concerned, I would rather have it in black, but really not a big deal to me.


Very nice theater room! At least the projector matches your counter tops!. :laugh: The only thing it would match in my theater would be the screen. And wow, I knew that projector was huge, but holy cow, it is a monster. Thanks for sharing!!


----------



## MaximTre

Everdog said:


> I've been reading through this thread and also anything else I could find on Google and I am still confused.
> 
> 
> If I buy an Xbox 1 S to go with this projector, what can I expect today?
> Will I be able to steam 4K via Netflix?
> Will I be able to play UHD Bluray discs in 4K?
> 
> 
> And one bonus question. Does anyone stream 4K from Plex? What do you use. I am open to buying a Chrome Ultra or Roku device.


*Will I be able to steam 4K via Netflix? *
4k SDR yes
4k HDR no (both wired and wireless)

*Will I be able to play UHD Bluray discs in 4K?*
Wired 4k + SDR only
Wireless 4k + HDR


----------



## dvdwilly3

VLAGAS said:


> Hi First post here, I'm 20 and don't have any experience so far with Projectors so incredibly newby post about to go down here - but looking at buying this epson as my first Projector.
> 
> Have got the PS4 Pro and came to this forum to see if they play well together. I know that the projector doesn't actually display native 4K but it will output 4k so the PS4 Pro will be outputting the best it can and won't think it's limited to a 1080p display.
> 
> A Lot of this stuff is way over my head but I'm trying my best to understand what people have said about gaming on this projector. If someone can please confirm what does and doesn't work with the PS4 Pro
> 
> *PS4 Pro on Epson Projector*
> 4K 60fps Gaming: *Yes*
> 4K HDR Gaming at 60fps: *No*
> 4K HDR Gaming at 30fps: *No?*
> 1080P HDR 60fps: *Yes?*
> 1080P HDR Gaming with 4k Projector Enhancement turned on: *Yes? (what does this do to input lag?)*
> 1080P HDR video apps (Netflix / Amazon): *Yes?*
> 4k HDR video apps (Netflix / Amazon): *No (more to do with the apps then projector?)*
> 
> 4k HDR from an UHD player: *Surely Yes?*
> 
> Other than that I can't find the simplest of information like does 1080P content look worse on a projected 100" image compared to an 1080P LCD 55" image?
> 
> I'm pretty sure the answer is yes the bigger the projected image the worse the quality, and that in general projectors can't quite hold up to what a good tv can do quality wise? But i'm hoping this will be an upgrade over our current 55" 1080p tv and that we won't instantly notice a decrease in quality over the larger image displayed. That instead we will be wowed by the experience and never look back.
> 
> I know this is retreading ground already covered but it's hard trying to look through 30 different pages with 10 different people experimenting on 10 different things.


If you would like to see some examples, go to the link in my signature.

My screen is 92", not 100", but it would be close...

No gaming, but bluray, UHD, and TiVo...


----------



## Everdog

MaximTre said:


> *Will I be able to steam 4K via Netflix? *
> 4k SDR yes
> 4k HDR no (both wired and wireless)
> 
> *Will I be able to play UHD Bluray discs in 4K?*
> Wired 4k + SDR only
> Wireless 4k + HDR



So if I buy the wireless version I can get 4k + HDR from UHD Bluray discs?
I might have to replace the long HDMI cable to the projector anyway, so this could be an option for me.


----------



## MaximTre

Everdog said:


> So if I buy the wireless version I can get 4k + HDR from UHD Bluray discs?
> I might have to replace the long HDMI cable to the projector anyway, so this could be an option for me.


Yes, with wireless you are fine


----------



## am2model3

Hello fellower movie/projector fans! 
I have been reading/following this epson5040 owners thread and am thinking about buying, 2799 is nice discount. 

How do I add an image tag to my user on this forum?
I am looking at wanting 4K but don't want to pay the ludicrous Sony prices, $7k to 15k. 
I am torn waiting to see the 2017 DLP UHD 4k faux k options, but 5040ub @ 2799 is hard to beat. 

I wonder how DLP faux k 4million mirrors to 8million mirrors will compare to Epson and JVC 2million to 4million? 
They both seem to exhibit the same .5 pixel shift idea; but if one starts higher; technically it should look sharper?

I currently enjoy a 1080p DLP samsung SPa800b and its great since 2008. Lately I have been gaming with my game PC with an NvidiaTitanXPascal at 4k 2160p/60 and am using DSR (super sample) down to 1080p. So my game pc shrinks the 4k image to fit on 1080p. 
I would love to send this 4k image to the epson and see how it compares; can any epson owners post some 4k game screens from PC and PS4Pro?

Also, I read all about the 5040 and 5040ube HDMI chipset differences. Since the ube has 450mHz and the SIL9777 18gbps chipset; i realize everyone has said the regular 5040ub has 10.2 gpbs chipset limitation wired. Since 5040ube has the wireless input limitation/advantage of 450mhz (not 600mhz); i wondered has anyone tried WIRED into the 5040ube to see if that takes a full 18gbps signal? (or at least 450mhz?) (reason i wonder is would epson really put a 10.2gps wired chip AND a 18gbps wireless chip BOTH inside the UBE, that would be against the idea of cost. I suppose epson could have the 18gbps chip limited on its wired input to 10.2gbps; but that would be odd. 
I was just curious though; if anyone could comment using 5040ube WIRED and if the HDMI input is still limited at 10.2 or if 18 was somehow miraculously allowed? (thus bypassing the wireless transmission limitation of 450mhz?) = )


----------



## dotorg

am2model3 said:


> i wondered has anyone tried WIRED into the 5040ube to see if that takes a full 18gbps signal? (or at least 450mhz?)


The wired ports are identical, so there's no difference.


----------



## Suppertime24

Any thoughts on preferred mount?


----------



## dholmes54

*Epson*



McBadden said:


> Despite the limitations discussed on this forum, I have found this projector to produce a beautiful image at a cost that is far less than its many impressive capabilities would command from other projectors. While slightly annoyed with some of the compatibility issues, I do not find them to detract from my overall experience, which is overwhelmingly positive. I love this machine and have no buyer's remorse whatsoever. As far as the white color is concerned, I would rather have it in black, but really not a big deal to me. I've just started playing Battlefield 1 on the Xbox one S, and feel like I am experiencing video gaming on a completely new and exciting level. I would have no reservations recommending this projector to anyone other than the most dedicated, hard core purist, who absolutely demanded the best possible performance regardless of price. To someone like me, who recognizes a good picture when they see it, and isn't hung up on what I personally consider to be some of the minutiae that others are concerned with, it is the perfect piece of hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


I like a black projector,but your HT and white projector are great,beautiful room!


----------



## MississippiMan

Suppertime24 said:


> What is the best mount for the 5040?
> 
> 
> I checked with Epson and they said it was model # CHF4000 but that they didn't currently have any to sell. Seems online sellers are also out of this model.
> 
> 
> Thanks.





Suppertime24 said:


> Any thoughts on preferred mount?



Go look here for the best choices:
Peerless Universal

Chief RPA-U Universal


----------



## Jackattack51

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm sure there is no way in hell Epson is going to offer free upgrades to 18 GB HDMI chips for the 5040/6040.
> 
> However, I looked in my crystal ball and I see them offering it in a slightly upgraded 5050/6050 probably announced at CEDIA 9/2017.
> 
> *For those saying there is no way in hell 5050/6050 models are coming within a year of the 5040/6040 I looked up the release dates on projectorcentral.com (assuming their info is correct).* Epson introduced the 5010/6010 and one year later introduced the 5020/6020 with very minor changes. Same story between 5020/6020 and 5030/6030 models, only one year between them. If the projectorcentral.com dates are correct I could totally see Epson releasing a 5050/6050 with 18 GB HDMI chip a year after the 5040/6040 introduction. Time will tell how accurate my crystal ball is...
> 
> Again thanks for this forum so I was able to make an educated decision whether to upgrade from my 5030 to the 5040 or wait and see if the 5050 is far more compatible with the many 4K HDR sources.


You beat me to the punch. There are lots of people who can't see epson releasing a new projector next year but I see otherwise. The 5010 like in your example doesn't go back far enough. Ever since '07 with the 1080UB, epson has been releasing a projector every year stopping only at the 5030. From my point of view the delay was most likely due to the redesign of the 5040. Knowing that, it makes more sense to me that they will resume yearly updates now that the hard work of a redesign has been done. Now, its also totally possible that epson decided that a yearly upgrade cycle didn't make monetary sense to them and they switched at the same time as a redesign. Speculate all you want, but I think it's foolish to assume that they definitely aren't releasing a new projector next year.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Is there any noticeable input lag for gaming on the wireless ube vs the ub?


----------



## Dave Harper

mercuryyy said:


> Your right, but on some channels they actually do full 1080p other are crap. BUT what other choices do i have? DirectTV? same crap Dish? horrible signal



There are no 1080p broadcast HD channels, only 1080i or 720p.

DirecTV is MUCH better than "Con"cast, by a country mile, especially now that they've decided to make their crap even crappier with the down conversions. DirecTV is known to be the best MSO for HD picture quality and is why most videophiles have that service and pay a premium for it. Verizon FiOS is a close second and is the best option if you use TiVo with cable TV. 

I agree DISH PQ is garbage and I would never have that in my HT, although their equipment (Hopper3) is cool. 



achanonier said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> 
> 
> First Post here, I'm from France and I'm very Happy with this projector.... as long as I don't use HDR content.
> 
> As many of you experienced the image is way too dark and thus lacks intra image contrast in the mid range compared to SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> My hope is now that Epson makes a new firmware as Sony did on its HDR projector --> That's in the firmware release note and users report that it works great...
> 
> 
> 
> - Adds 'HDR Contrast' function to Picture Menu (when viewing HDR content) allowing user to adjust the average screen brigtness
> 
> 
> 
> Any plans from Epson on this ?



What I did (using an Xbox One S) was set the XB1S' output to PC RGB and then used extended HDMI range (0-255) on the projector and upped the gamma slightly which boosts the midrange, and then ran a calibration to set the proper white and black levels. 

This seems to create the same effect and I was utterly floored by the image I was getting on our Sony VPL-VW350ES and 5040UBe with the Revenant UHD BR. 



Justkidding said:


> Hello everybody,
> 
> 
> 
> I am also thinking about buying the Epson 5040 UBe.
> 
> I am from Germany and in German forums lots of people are so much complaining about the "ridiculous bad" frame interpolation capabilities of the new Epson.
> 
> After reading a lot in this thread this seems to be not such a big issue in the US.
> 
> I am just wondering why.
> 
> Is it because in the US most people don't use the frame interpolation at all and thus not care about it?
> 
> Or are the german guys just too picky?
> 
> Really interested in your thoughts.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!



It most likely has to do with the differing AC systems between the USA and Europe. We use a 60Hz system here and Europe uses 50Hz. This is the reason that when TV was invented. The USA used essentially the same refresh rate as its AC system, 59.94 (for more in depth reasons that we don't have to get into here) and Europe used 50Hz. This was done so you don't have that beat frequency line rolling up your tv screen. Remember how you had a control on your old tv to adjust that? (Us old folks anyway!  )

I'm pretty sure this causes the FI to act differently on essentially the same projector. Find someone over there with an AC transformer that converts it to 60Hz USA style AC and see if it improves.


----------



## Viche

Been away from the forums for a while. Anyone have any idea when the current $2799 sale will end?

Also, has anyone done any testing to see how fauxK (which shifts pixels diagonally) pairs up with PS4 Pro's Checkerboard rendering which also uses diagonal sampling to recreate 4K (not to mention the myriad of other resolutions, including dynamic, that developers can employ through the PS4 Pro)? I'm imagining all sorts of moire or other artifacts, but hopefully I am wrong.


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> *Will I be able to steam 4K via Netflix? *
> 
> 4k SDR yes
> 
> 4k HDR no (both wired and wireless)
> 
> 
> 
> *Will I be able to play UHD Bluray discs in 4K?*
> 
> Wired 4k + SDR only
> 
> Wireless 4k + HDR






Everdog said:


> So if I buy the wireless version I can get 4k + HDR from UHD Bluray discs?
> I might have to replace the long HDMI cable to the projector anyway, so this could be an option for me.






MaximTre said:


> Yes, with wireless you are fine



I believe you could also save $50-100 and get the 5040UB wired only version and an HDFury Integral or Linker to make it kick in and use HDR.


----------



## Threefiddie

Dave Harper said:


> There are no 1080p broadcast HD channels, only 1080i or 720p.
> 
> DirecTV is MUCH better than "Con"cast, by a country mile, especially now that they've decided to make their crap even crappier with the down conversions. DirecTV is known to be the best MSO for HD picture quality and is why most videophiles have that service and pay a premium for it. Verizon FiOS is a close second and is the best option if you use TiVo with cable TV.
> 
> I agree DISH PQ is garbage and I would never have that in my HT, although their equipment (Hopper3) is cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I


 just switched from that crap called DirecTV to dish. best decision yet. not only is dish caught up to 2016 in both speed and looks of the UI and how everything is catogroized with thumnails and other nice things but everything looks better than directv whether it's on 134" screen, 65's, or 55's. in the house. so disagree. it looks so much better than directv on a projector. oh yeah and 16 things at once vs directv's small amount of recording. I haven't had to cancel or move anything when my wife records 10000 reality tv shows. directv boxes feel like they have snails in them they are so damn slow and laggy. directv has got a lot of work to do. oh yeah dish was cheaper too even after directv begged me to come back and tried to take me out to dinner.


----------



## Ashma

dotorg said:


> White is the new black. I don't believe for a second that people are buying devices because they're white, and I think the opposite is actually true. But, still, white is the trend. TiVo's new units are all white. Microsoft's XB1S is white, and has every damn color available *except* black, it seems. TVs are coming in white. And the worst part is, although polymer sciences are improving with regard to white plastics, they still yellow over time, so things end up looking old unless they're painted white.


Actually went with the 5040ub because it was white. Could have a good dealer discount on the 6040 but chose the 5040 due to the color. It worked better with our white ceilings and WAF.


----------



## c.kingsley

Threefiddie said:


> oh yeah dish was cheaper too even after directv begged me to come back and tried to take me out to dinner.


Dish, Comcast, DirecTV...what are these relics of which you speak?


----------



## Threefiddie

c.kingsley said:


> Threefiddie said:
> 
> 
> 
> oh yeah dish was cheaper too even after directv begged me to come back and tried to take me out to dinner.
> 
> 
> 
> Dish, Comcast, DirecTV...what are these relics of which you speak?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't have any of it if it wasn't for my wife. I'd just use the Internet.


----------



## Dave Harper

Threefiddie said:


> just switched from that crap called DirecTV to dish. best decision yet. not only is dish caught up to 2016 in both speed and looks of the UI and how everything is catogroized with thumnails and other nice things but everything looks better than directv whether it's on 134" screen, 65's, or 55's. in the house. so disagree. it looks so much better than directv on a projector. oh yeah and 16 things at once vs directv's small amount of recording. I haven't had to cancel or move anything when my wife records 10000 reality tv shows. directv boxes feel like they have snails in them they are so damn slow and laggy. directv has got a lot of work to do. oh yeah dish was cheaper too even after directv begged me to come back and tried to take me out to dinner.



I'm talking about picture quality, and it is a fact that DirecTV is better based on their technology and broadcast parameters. Most of what you talked about is comparing their hardware and GUI, which I said was nice. 

If you're happy though, so be it. 

Let's get back on topic.......


----------



## exm

Suppertime24 said:


> What is the best mount for the 5040?
> 
> 
> I checked with Epson and they said it was model # CHF4000 but that they didn't currently have any to sell. Seems online sellers are also out of this model.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


I sent you a PM


----------



## gnolivos

Buy the RPAU mount. It will be compatible with projectors for millenniums.


----------



## NoTechi

*HDFury Linker questions*

Hi,

looking for some HDFury Linker experience with our Epsons.

- Is downscaling to 1080p with all colors and have the Epson upsacle again to 4k with the Linker on Netflix and Games better then just 4k with low color range without Linker?
- I have the Epson wireless version. So UHD 4k HDR works fine with the xbox one s. Can I set the linker to passthrough those signals while on Netflix and games it downscales them to 1080p with full color range without having to run to my pc and change the settings in the Linker each time?
- Would I connect the Linker between my xbox one s and my receiver or between the receiver and the projector?
- Is the xbox one s showing any different tv resolution option while the linker is in the chain?

I would go for the linker if there is a noticeable quality improvement in Netflix and Games on the xbox one s and if i could just forget about the linker after initial setup.

NoTechi


----------



## merceg100

Hi guys,
I'm planing to buy my first projector ever and it will probably be 5040. Considering that 3d glasses don't come along with it I was wondering whether my Panasonic active IR from last plasma series will work on Epson? If not what is the best third party RF 3d glasses that will work on 5040. I don't know if Amazon links are available in forum so if someone can send me link to good ones on PM.
Thanks


----------



## shelly40

The 5040, I believe needs RF glasses... IR no workie...

I don't have glasses yet... so can't help you there...

And a thanks to people mentioning this projector was on sale.....

Went back to where I got it, and got $212 back.....

Shelly


----------



## Dandlj

MaximTre said:


> Yes, with wireless you are fine




It's interesting, when the models first came out people were saying that the wireless, according to the specs, was more limited. Turns out that factually that was correct, but it seems there is more connectivity. Good to have real world experience.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Smarty-pants

hatlesschimp said:


> A video looking at the Image Enhancement Presets and also showing some different aspect ratios.
> 
> https://youtu.be/J7WxsHUmNgg


Great video! Thanks for doing that!


----------



## McBadden

Thank you to those with nice comments about my home theater room. I'm quite proud and pleased with it myself. 😊 However, it is not complete. I will upload updated pics after furniture has arrived. We have also installed some colored LED lighting that I would like to share with youys guys. 
Happy viewing!

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Smarty-pants said:


> Great video! Thanks for doing that!


Anything else you want to see let me know. I have 2 more vids almost ready but my wife is in hospital till the end of the week and Im minding the kids which I never knew was a fulltime job lol. My wife should be fine shes doing well btw after going in on monday for an op on her thyroid.


----------



## MaximTre

Dandlj said:


> It's interesting, when the models first came out people were saying that the wireless, according to the specs, was more limited. Turns out that factually that was correct, but it seems there is more connectivity. Good to have real world experience.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why would the wireless be more limited, when in fact it has a more advanced chipset, more bandwidth available, more resolutions support, more compatiblity?
I think it quite an advanced and impressive device, it's pushing around 14Gbps via a radio signal, without any hitch or compromise.


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> I believe you could also save $50-100 and get the 5040UB wired only version and an HDFury Integral or Linker to make it kick in and use HDR.


I have the Linker too, you are correct.
With the Linker you'll also activate HDR gaming (4k @8bit instead of full 10bit), and you need the Linker for that, the wireless in it's current state (AKA not patched by Epson) it's not enough (it'ok for hdr movies, not for hdr gaming).


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> I have the Linker too, you are correct.
> 
> With the Linker you'll also activate HDR gaming (4k @8bit instead of full 10bit), and you need the Linker for that, the wireless in it's current state (AKA not patched by Epson) it's not enough (it'ok for hdr movies, not for hdr gaming).




Thanks. With the linker do I need a computer near by the Epson for it to work? Sorry I'm not sure how it works? Each time I need HDR do I need to turn on laptop and activate it etc? To sum up what will the linker achieve with the wired 5040ub?

I know Blu ray 4K HDR already works without linker. 

Also is 8bit HDR gaming good quality?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. With the linker do I need a computer near by the Epson for it to work? Sorry I'm not sure how it works? Each time I need HDR do I need to turn on laptop and activate it etc? To sum up what will the linker achieve with the wired 5040ub?
> 
> I know Blu ray 4K HDR already works without linker.
> 
> Also is 8bit HDR gaming good quality?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No pc needed at all for normal use (you'll need it to change hd fury internal settings, or to make hdr -> sdr conversion on the fly).
With 8 bit color depth you'll have some occasional banding (think ot a clear blue sky, you'll have banding), but it's a trade off we can live with (we're keeping hdr, bt.2020 color grading, etc etc).
Here's an example of banding (my photos)

BANDING 8bit


NO BANDING 10 bit


----------



## achanonier

Hi again !

I'm ve just been aware that Sony has release a new firmware with a new feature for its 4k HDR linup!

- Further improvements of HDR-related functionality
- Adds 'HDR Contrast' function to Picture Menu (when viewing HDR content) allowing user to adjust the average screen brightness

The second feature is just what's needed to have good HDR rendering with current projectors.

How can we push such a feature request to Epson ?


----------



## MaximTre

achanonier said:


> How can we push such a feature request to Epson ?


Don't be afraid to write to them, Epson has an excellent customer service, you'll find contact informations on their site.


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> No pc needed at all for normal use (you'll need it to change hd fury internal settings, or to make hdr -> sdr conversion on the fly).
> 
> With 8 bit color depth you'll have some occasional banding (think ot a clear blue sky, you'll have banding), but it's a trade off we can live with (we're keeping hdr, bt.2020 color grading, etc etc).
> 
> Here's an example of banding (my photos)
> 
> 
> 
> BANDING 8bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NO BANDING 10 bit




Thanks. I guess I could live with that. So if I had wireless HDMI it is still limited to 8bit HDR gaming?

Also with the linker and wired HDMI what else will it allow me to do? Besides 8bit HDR gaming. How about Netflix 4K HDR? Or Amazon 4K HDR?

Thanks,
K.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## achanonier

MaximTre said:


> Don't be afraid to write to them, Epson has an excellent customer service, you'll find contact informations on their site.


Question asked to US support (not sure about French support though when I called them once to ask about the 4h enhancement whining noise at 60hz they were not aware of this...)


----------



## chiltonj

hatlesschimp said:


> Anything else you want to see let me know. I have 2 more vids almost ready but my wife is in hospital till the end of the week and Im minding the kids which I never knew was a fulltime job lol. My wife should be fine shes doing well btw after going in on monday for an op on her thyroid.


Fantastic video! I was wondering the same about 4k enhancement and could never tell a difference on/off. Definitely learned something new on the presets. Thank you! Cool opening on the video too with the sliding lens cover. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. I guess I could live with that. So if I had wireless HDMI it is still limited to 8bit HDR gaming?
> 
> Also with the linker and wired HDMI what else will it allow me to do? Besides 8bit HDR gaming. How about Netflix 4K HDR? Or Amazon 4K HDR?
> 
> Thanks,
> K.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Linker makes devices think everything is fine (full bandwidth hdmi port), then it converts the signal to what the Epson can display.
So you'll get an 4k/hdr/60hz/8 bit signal instead of the 10 bit one, but everything will work (Netflix HDR surely works, can't comment on Amazon app as it's not available where I live)


----------



## hatlesschimp

Picked up the Ps4 Pro and a couple games. Let see what we have, hey?


----------



## hatlesschimp

Sorry dont know what heppened with the tripple post


----------



## Justkidding

hatlesschimp said:


> Ive tried it on and off and had mixed results. Too me it doesnt add enough for me to care about but when it goes pear shape it really goes pear shape. I was doing a recording and I forgot I left it on and had to stop and turn it off because it looked like garbage!


Thanks for your opinion. So when you are watching Blurays (24 Hz) you always turn the frame interpolation feature off?




Dave Harper said:


> There are no 1080p broadcast HD channels, only 1080i or 720p.
> 
> It most likely has to do with the differing AC systems between the USA and Europe. We use a 60Hz system here and Europe uses 50Hz. This is the reason that when TV was invented. The USA used essentially the same refresh rate as its AC system, 59.94 (for more in depth reasons that we don't have to get into here) and Europe used 50Hz. This was done so you don't have that beat frequency line rolling up your tv screen. Remember how you had a control on your old tv to adjust that? (Us old folks anyway!  )
> 
> I'm pretty sure this causes the FI to act differently on essentially the same projector. Find someone over there with an AC transformer that converts it to 60Hz USA style AC and see if it improves.


But this is only relevant for TV sources isn't it?
So what about watching blurays? I assume they are 24p everywhere 
Do you still never use the FI feature? For these sources the FI should act the same shouldn't it?


----------



## Kelvin1000

The Roku Ultra received a firmware update and I can confirm that it can now display 4K HDR at 24Hz (same format as 4K UHD Blu-rays) with the Epson 5040ub.


----------



## k3nnis

Kelvin1000 said:


> The Roku Ultra received a firmware update and I can confirm that it can now display 4K HDR at 24Hz (same format as 4K UHD Blu-rays) with the Epson 5040ub.




Is this for Netflix 4K HDR and also Amazon 4K?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> The Linker makes devices think everything is fine (full bandwidth hdmi port), then it converts the signal to what the Epson can display.
> 
> So you'll get an 4k/hdr/60hz/8 bit signal instead of the 10 bit one, but everything will work (Netflix HDR surely works, can't comment on Amazon app as it's not available where I live)




Ok thanks. What device do you use for Netflix 4K HDR? And is 8bit 4K HDR Netflix better than Netflix 4K SDR?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## c.kingsley

achanonier said:


> Adds 'HDR Contrast' function to Picture Menu (when viewing HDR content) allowing user to adjust the average screen brightness


I don't know exactly what this setting does on the Sony, but you can adjust this already by forcing HDR mode 1. Before even attempting that, you'll need to have totally different settings for HDR vs SDR. Dave Harper has posted some settings which are a good starting point. I posted mine previously as well. It involves medium or high lamp, raising gamma to +1, contrast to ~65 and lowering brightness to ~45 as a basic starting point. There are too many variables to go into too much detail: screen size, screen gain, zoom, overall light floor for the room in question. You'll have to adjust it to your individual circumstances.

So far I've watched the following in UHD:

Oblivion, Lucy, Warcraft, Creed and Ender's Game. Every one of these titles has been "correctable" with alternate input settings similar to above. Ender's Game and Oblivion required HDR Mode 1, the other 3 were fine with HDR Auto.


----------



## Threefiddie

hatlesschimp said:


> Picked up the Ps4 Pro and a couple games. Let see what we have, hey?


disappointed yet? lol


----------



## PetrieLy

Is the wireless version 5040ube worth the extra $500, now that the 5040ub has dropped? Still on the fence which one to get.

From what I understand, they have different chipset but with the limitation of the wireless one they have the same viewing capabilities as of right now?
Whats the chance that the limitation of the wireless version gets lifted so we can play 4k/60hz/hdr? Newbie here trying to digest all this information.

Thanks.


----------



## vevans001

I'll apologize in advance if this ends up being a double post....already tried submitting once and I think I boogered something up.

This thread has been incredibly helpful. I'm ready to take the plunge on the 5040UB. A few quick questions if someone wouldn't mind helping out a first time projector buyer...

The contributions regarding mounts (especially the detailed instructions from MississippiMan) have been great. I went on Amazon to pick one out and found both the PRG-UNV and the PRG-UNV-W. They seem to be a bit different....will they both get the job done? The UNV-W is white and would match the projector, which I'm sure my wife would appreciate....with that being said, getting the right fit for the projector is my bigger concern.

I'm going to need to go somewhere in the range of 20 to 30' with my HDMI cable. I know virtually nothing about HDMI. Can someone steer me in the direction of the best cable to purchase?

I'm going to install an outlet in the ceiling behind the projector for power....besides that HDMI cable that will run to my receiver, are there any other cables/wires I'm forgetting while I'm in the midst of this process (sorry for the newbie questions)?


----------



## achanonier

c.kingsley said:


> I don't know exactly what this setting does on the Sony, but you can adjust this already by forcing HDR mode 1. Before even attempting that, you'll need to have totally different settings for HDR vs SDR. Dave Harper has posted some settings which are a good starting point. I posted mine previously as well. It involves medium or high lamp, raising gamma to +1, contrast to ~65 and lowering brightness to ~45 as a basic starting point. There are too many variables to go into too much detail: screen size, screen gain, zoom, overall light floor for the room in question. You'll have to adjust it to your individual circumstances.
> 
> So far I've watched the following in UHD:
> 
> Oblivion, Lucy, Warcraft, Creed and Ender's Game. Every one of these titles has been "correctable" with alternate input settings similar to above. Ender's Game and Oblivion required HDR Mode 1, the other 3 were fine with HDR Auto.


That's the setup I ended with during my tests !
Gamma + 1 and Contrast 65. But I'm noticd something strange also, I needed to set the HDI range to expended manually whatever the setting of the K8500 (Atdu, YCBCR 4.4.4, RGB limited, RGB Full) it always seems that the UHD blu ray is sent with full range but th eprojecteor on Auto stays on a limited range setting... Its the only source that bhave incorrectly with Auto HDMI range...
In terms of color I was set on Natural and the Auto color would be R.709 not BT.2020 do I have to switch that manually ? WHen I did colors seemed of in BT2020.

I'm still tryning to figure out if I need to send back teh Samsung to get a Panasonic player? Would I get a brighter image thansk to it's YCBCR 4.2.0 10 bits output ?


----------



## c.kingsley

achanonier said:


> That's the setup I ended with during my tests !
> Gamma + 1 and Contrast 65. But I'm noticd something strange also, I needed to set the HDI range to expended manually whatever the setting of the K8500 (Atdu, YCBCR 4.4.4, RGB limited, RGB Full) it always seems that the UHD blu ray is sent with full range but th eprojecteor on Auto stays on a limited range setting... Its the only source that bhave incorrectly with Auto HDMI range...
> In terms of color I was set on Natural and the Auto color would be R.709 not BT.2020 do I have to switch that manually ? WHen I did colors seemed of in BT2020.
> 
> I'm still tryning to figure out if I need to send back teh Samsung to get a Panasonic player? Would I get a brighter image thansk to it's YCBCR 4.2.0 10 bits output ?


Yes, you need to get the Philips or Panasonic player. Your UHD input needs to be 4:2:2 at 10 or 12 bit. The Samsung only sends 4:4:4, without a firmware update it is incompatible.


----------



## kg505

MaximTre said:


> No pc needed at all for normal use (you'll need it to change hd fury internal settings, or to make hdr -> sdr conversion on the fly).
> With 8 bit color depth you'll have some occasional banding (think ot a clear blue sky, you'll have banding), but it's a trade off we can live with (we're keeping hdr, bt.2020 color grading, etc etc).
> Here's an example of banding (my photos)
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered the linker so I can get 8bit HDR gaming. Can you post the settings you are using to get this with the PS4 pro and/or xbox one S?


----------



## Everdog

*Will HDMI 1.4a work with 4K and 5040UB?*

My receiver only supports HDMI 1.4a


From what I read, "1.4 connectors support a 3820x2160-resolution at 30 frames per second"


----------



## gnolivos

I wanted to comment on the use of Epson Super White setting. Originally I had it set to OFF because it seemed brighter. But when calibrating with the AVS Calman disc I noticed that the white levels were capable of showing only a few of the shades of white (although still within required specs). Then I switched Super White to ON and boom... was able to see every single one of the shades of white on the spectrum for the 'white level' calibration screen. (Contrast adjustment screen)

Am I correct in that it is preferable to have a slightly lowered perceived brightness while maintaining full white level capability ?


----------



## dholmes54

So does the 5040-6040 have banding problems,also what is HD fury


----------



## am2model3

HD fury is a HDMI device that clears up any HDMI issues. hdcp 1.4, 2.2; and all other sorts of HDMI handshake issues. it is like a translator that helps sort out the communication between devices so that things can become compatible. 

the projector has an HDMI wired input limitation on its input chip; it is a 10.2gbps input chip; however oddly inside the projector it has an 18gbps HDMI chip for video processing, apparently. 
Seems odd that Epson would limit the input when they spent money enough to have the full chip inside; but that's how it is!


----------



## hatlesschimp

Threefiddie said:


> disappointed yet? lol


Dont know yet Ive been busy. Still all in box lol.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs,I looked up & read about HD fury so banding not a issue?


----------



## Everdog

am2model3 said:


> HD fury is a HDMI device that clears up any HDMI issues. hdcp 1.4, 2.2; and all other sorts of HDMI handshake issues. it is like a translator that helps sort out the communication between devices so that things can become compatible.
> 
> the projector has an HDMI wired input limitation on its input chip; it is a 10.2gbps input chip; however oddly inside the projector it has an 18gbps HDMI chip for video processing, apparently.
> Seems odd that Epson would limit the input when they spent money enough to have the full chip inside; but that's how it is!



But isn't the problem with the HD Fury that you still get that HDMI 10.2 gbps bandwidth bottle neck? 
But with the more expensive 5040UBe the wireless HDMI has much greater bandwidth? So it should be the better option?


----------



## gec5741

evoZip said:


> No problem man! Definitely can see how much thought/work went into it! Thankfully the house I just bought came with a finished basement...just needs some tweaks to get it to where I want. The dimensions are exactly what I would have done if building from scratch, but I think it'll work!
> 
> I'm optimistic it will fit then. My 5040 will be here today (missed the delivery Friday  ) and putting in the order for the shelf today, will be here by wednesday.
> 
> Need to get the materials to build the component shelving still, and actually put the screen up on the wall. Things should be functional by a Friday gathering and hopefully building the shelving won't take too long lol


Sorry if this is a bit late. But I took a look at my shelf and 5030 and looks like I have plenty of room from the front feet to the edge of the shelf. I don't think you will have any problem with the 5040 fitting.


----------



## siuengr

I got the Samsung K8500 last night. I did the firmware update and it seemed to play a UHD HDR Blu-ray just fine. It came up as bt.2020 in the menu and the picture looked great. When I tried to watch something on Amazon, the K8500 says UHD HDR, but it looks very dark. The 5040 also says 709 HDR2. Is there some other setting that I am missing for the Amazon app to display HDR correctly?


----------



## Viche

hatlesschimp said:


> Anything else you want to see let me know. I have 2 more vids almost ready but my wife is in hospital till the end of the week and Im minding the kids which I never knew was a fulltime job lol. My wife should be fine shes doing well btw after going in on monday for an op on her thyroid.


Image enhancement is separate from 4k upscaling on the Epson, correct? If so, did you have 4k scaling turned on in the image enhancement video? And what do you mean in the video when you say that 4k enhancement does absolutely nothing? Do you mean that image enhancements do nothing on 4k sources, or that 4k upscaling does nothing on 1080p video?

Thanks!


----------



## hatlesschimp

Viche said:


> Image enhancement is separate from 4k upscaling on the Epson, correct? If so, did you have 4k scaling turned on in the image enhancement video? And what do you mean in the video when you say that 4k enhancement does absolutely nothing? Do you mean that image enhancements do nothing on 4k sources, or that 4k upscaling does nothing on 1080p video?
> 
> Thanks!


With uhd / 4k content the 4k enhancement can not be turned on as its doing its best here. But with 1080p content it can be turned on and off. When i done this i saw no difference. Which made me wonder if its tied to the image enhacement presets but it isnt. They are both seperate. Someone here said it did make adifference to them with an AT screen with extra fill. But to me i saw noting exciting happen and would rather ensure p3 is set on before i go digging through the menu to put 4k enhancement on. 
I will look at it a gain today and advise further. Maybe i have a dud machine lol or im blind but i honestly saw no d difference.


----------



## exm

I had some issues with my Marantz AV8802A and the 6040UB, but I have it figured out. For 1080P sources (Tivo DVR, Oppo BDP-93), should I let the Marantz upscale, or the Epson (using 4k enhancement)? I would think that the Epson can do a better job but somehow I like the Marantz upscaling better. Does that even make sense?


----------



## Viche

hatlesschimp said:


> With uhd / 4k content the 4k enhancement can not be turned on as its doing its best here. But with 1080p content it can be turned on and off. When i done this i saw no difference. Which made me wonder if its tied to the image enhacement presets but it isnt. They are both seperate. Someone here said it did make adifference to them with an AT screen with extra fill. But to me i saw noting exciting happen and would rather ensure p3 is set on before i go digging through the menu to put 4k enhancement on.
> I will look at it a gain today and advise further. Maybe i have a dud machine lol or im blind but i honestly saw no d difference.


Yeah that's super surprising. I've seen closeup screenshots in professional reviews showing the difference with 4k enhancement on and off with 1080p content, and the difference is very noticeable. For one, the SDE is greatly reduced. Some people in these threads have stated that 1080p with FauxK on is almost as good as native 4k source on the projector (I believe they also preferred this set up because of some other trade off that made it worth it...like the encoding used by the 4k movies not being supported by the 10 Gbps hdmi chipset in the projector). It was one of the main reasons I was thinking of buying this over the 5030. Please check again. I'll try to find a link to an image comparison article.

If you get a chance, please also check to see what type of signal the PS4 Pro is sending. I had written this a few months ago, and I'm wondering what the end result was:

Gaming (PCs, 4k games on PS4 Pro & Xbox Scorpio)
• The Epson’s HDMI chipset (10 GBPS limitation) will only accept 4k60 at 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
• It is unknown whether these gaming devices will send 4k signals in this format. If for example they send the signal as 4k60 / 4:4:4 / 10-bit, the signal will fail or be downgraded to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit color 
• Either way, 4:4:4 will get downgraded to 4:2:0 and/or color will be downgraded to 8-bit (non-HDR) assuming the source was HDR to begin with


----------



## exm

hatlesschimp said:


> With uhd / 4k content the 4k enhancement can not be turned on as its doing its best here. But with 1080p content it can be turned on and off. When i done this i saw no difference. Which made me wonder if its tied to the image enhacement presets but it isnt. They are both seperate. Someone here said it did make adifference to them with an AT screen with extra fill. But to me i saw noting exciting happen and would rather ensure p3 is set on before i go digging through the menu to put 4k enhancement on.
> I will look at it a gain today and advise further. Maybe i have a dud machine lol or im blind but i honestly saw no d difference.





hatlesschimp said:


> A video looking at the Image Enhancement Presets and also showing some different aspect ratios.
> 
> https://youtu.be/J7WxsHUmNgg





Viche said:


> Yeah that's super surprising. I've seen closeup screenshots in professional reviews showing the difference with 4k enhancement on and off with 1080p content, and the difference is very noticeable. For one, the SDE is greatly reduced. Some people in these threads have stated that 1080p with FauxK on is almost as good as native 4k source on the projector (I believe they also preferred this set up because of some other trade off that made it worth it...like the encoding used by the 4k movies not being supported by the 10 Gbps hdmi chipset in the projector). It was one of the main reasons I was thinking of buying this over the 5030. Please check again. I'll try to find a link to an image comparison article.
> 
> If you get a chance, please also check to see what type of signal the PS4 Pro is sending. I had written this a few months ago, and I'm wondering what the end result was:
> 
> Gaming (PCs, 4k games on PS4 Pro & Xbox Scorpio)
> • The Epson’s HDMI chipset (10 GBPS limitation) will only accept 4k60 at 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
> • It is unknown whether these gaming devices will send 4k signals in this format. If for example they send the signal as 4k60 / 4:4:4 / 10-bit, the signal will fail or be downgraded to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
> • Either way, 4:4:4 will get downgraded to 4:2:0 and/or color will be downgraded to 8-bit (non-HDR) assuming the source was HDR to begin with


I'm with hatlesschimp on this one. Also check the video at 1:30 where the author claims 4k enhancement doesn't work. Again, as I posted above, I'm routing it through the AV8802A (bypass on to enable 4k enhancement). I've tested 4k enhancement on my Tivo Roamio. I'll try Blu Ray next.


----------



## Viche

exm said:


> I'm with hatlesschimp on this one. Also check the video at 1:30 where the author claims 4k enhancement doesn't work. Again, as I posted above, I'm routing it through the AV8802A (bypass on to enable 4k enhancement). I've tested 4k enhancement on my Tivo Roamio. I'll try Blu Ray next.


FYI, hatless chimp IS the author of that video. 

So what you're saying is that 4k pixel shift has no visual effect on 1080p video? Hope I am misunderstanding one or both of you, cause that makes no fraking sense to me.


----------



## gnolivos

EDIT: sorry I just checked and I was confused. That test I performed compared bluray Lucy to UHD Lucy. So was basically showing how eshift does improve things. 
Anyway, 4K enhancement decreases pixel gap (SDE) and that is a big win if:
A) you want to sit closer to projector
Or
B) you have an acoustically transparent screen and want to eliminate Moire. 

(Ignore the comment below)
Search my posts on this thread early on. I had a very detailed description and screenshots showing what the 4K enhancement does to the image. It does in fact improve things without a doubt, but don't expected it to be night and day.


----------



## exm

Viche said:


> FYI, hatless chimp IS the author of that video.
> 
> So what you're saying is that 4k pixel shift has no visual effect on 1080p video? Hope I am misunderstanding one or both of you, cause that makes no fraking sense to me.


HA, figures!

So far I only tested Tivo DVR HD material. I want to test a Blu Ray soon. With DVR I don't see any difference.


----------



## Jackattack51

Viche said:


> If you get a chance, please also check to see what type of signal the PS4 Pro is sending. I had written this a few months ago, and I'm wondering what the end result was:
> 
> Gaming (PCs, 4k games on PS4 Pro & Xbox Scorpio)
> • The Epson’s HDMI chipset (10 GBPS limitation) will only accept 4k60 at 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
> • It is unknown whether these gaming devices will send 4k signals in this format. If for example they send the signal as 4k60 / 4:4:4 / 10-bit, the signal will fail or be downgraded to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
> • Either way, 4:4:4 will get downgraded to 4:2:0 and/or color will be downgraded to 8-bit (non-HDR) assuming the source was HDR to begin with


I can only speak for the Pro, but since a PC with the correct software can send whatever it wants, this should cover everything. 

The PS4 pro has the ability to output a 4k 4:2:0 8 bit signal out of the box. It is left up to the games to enable HDR. Without extra hardware, such as the linker, you are never able to enable HDR at 4k resolutions. Drop it down to 1080p however and you can toggle it on. The scorpio isn't due out for another year but if they do what they did with the xbox one s, it doesn't bode well for this projector.


----------



## hatlesschimp

I will get up close later and have another look. But if im sitting at 2x to 2.2x the image height and i turn a heavily marketed setting on and I see no difference am I blind?
I can honestly say if you do the same with the jvc x7000 i used to have. You would see a massive difference. Im actualy at this point now wondering as I lay in bed if my PJ is faulty. Arrgh lol. We will get to the bottom of this 😀😄😂😢😭


----------



## Viche

Jackattack51 said:


> I can only speak for the Pro, but since a PC with the correct software can send whatever it wants, this should cover everything.
> 
> The PS4 pro has the ability to output a 4k 4:2:0 8 bit signal out of the box. It is left up to the games to enable HDR. Without extra hardware, such as the linker, you are never able to enable HDR at 4k resolutions. Drop it down to 1080p however and you can toggle it on. The scorpio isn't due out for another year but if they do what they did with the xbox one s, it doesn't bode well for this projector.


So how does the checkboard, variable resolution, fauxK of the PS4Pro match up with the diagonal pixel shifting fake 4k of the Epson?


----------



## Mr. Mackey

Did anyone else move to this projector from an Epson 8350? I've had my 8350 for 6 years (3000 hours) and still think it looks pretty nice but have been wondering what kind of improvement I'd see with a newer projector on my 100" screen. I'm no extreme videophile so I'd hate to drop $3,000 plus the price of a new AVR, new HDMI cables, PS4Pro etc, and not see much of a difference. 

Anyone want to chime in on their impressions of the 5040 that may have moved up from a dinosaur model?

I'm also still a little nervous pulling the trigger due to the compatibility issues I'm reading about as well. Thanks to all those who are trying things out and reporting on them!


----------



## Jackattack51

Viche said:


> So how does the checkboard, variable resolution, fauxK of the PS4Pro match up with the diagonal pixel shifting fake 4k of the Epson?


Pretty great if you ask me. Digital Foundry has a pretty comprehensive set of videos about the ps4 pro and the games that take advantage of it. They have done a lot more research into this stuff than me and came away very impressed with the pro's ability to simulate 4k content. (A couple of games, like the last of us and deus ex, are true 4k). And while I haven't been specifically looking for graphical issues, I've played through tomb raider at 4k, and deus ex at 4k HDR, and have been extremely impressed with the results.


----------



## Dandlj

MaximTre said:


> Why would the wireless be more limited, when in fact it has a more advanced chipset, more bandwidth available, more resolutions support, more compatiblity?
> 
> I think it quite an advanced and impressive device, it's pushing around 14Gbps via a radio signal, without any hitch or compromise.




I've been following this thread since the beginning and in the early posts the specs stated it was more limited. Perhaps someone in the know can chime in.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jackattack51

Mr. Mackey said:


> Did anyone else move to this projector from an Epson 8350? I've had my 8350 for 6 years (3000 hours) and still think it looks pretty nice but have been wondering what kind of improvement I'd see with a newer projector on my 100" screen. I'm no extreme videophile so I'd hate to drop $3,000 plus the price of a new AVR, new HDMI cables, PS4Pro etc, and not see much of a difference.
> 
> Anyone want to chime in on their impressions of the 5040 that may have moved up from a dinosaur model?
> 
> I'm also still a little nervous pulling the trigger due to the compatibility issues I'm reading about as well. Thanks to all those who are trying things out and reporting on them!


I moved to the 5040 from an 8500UB and I've been extremely impressed with the results. I did a little a/b testing and the difference is drastic. Though light levels on my old bulb are way lower so it's not a fair comparison. Honestly though, if you're on the fence, I'd wait until next year when epson sorts the issues out. Especially if you are still happy with your 8350. I believe they will release a 5050 next year, others on here disagree. It's a gamble but if you are happy with what you have, I'd say stick with it a little longer.


----------



## am2model3

The 5040ube wireless allows a 4k hdr uhd blu ray signal through from xbox one s because the wireless allows a 450mhz signal instead of the wired which is limited to 300mhz. the hd fury linker can help take higher signals 300-600 and translate them down to max capacity output detected on the other side @300mhz. I just placed my order for 5040ub today!! $2799 great sale! I will be testing xbox one s, ps4pro, and my game pc 4k next week!!


----------



## k3nnis

Am I correct in saying With the 5040ube wireless HDMI , it will still be limited to 4k60 8bit HDR gaming on Xbox one S?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Jackattack51 said:


> I can only speak for the Pro, but since a PC with the correct software can send whatever it wants, this should cover everything.
> 
> The PS4 pro has the ability to output a 4k 4:2:0 8 bit signal out of the box. It is left up to the games to enable HDR. Without extra hardware, such as the linker, you are never able to enable HDR at 4k resolutions. Drop it down to 1080p however and you can toggle it on. The scorpio isn't due out for another year but if they do what they did with the xbox one s, it doesn't bode well for this projector.


I think everyone needs to take a step back and think about a few things. Does epson say the 9300/6040ub has HDR? I think they may mention it on the site but they dont make a song and dance about it like the TV manufacturers. Also i look at my 9300 box everyday as its next to my computer it doesnt mention hdr on the outside or have a pretty little logo like the 3lcd or 4k or isf etc. I also have a 1080p gaming monotor thats 8 bit and will only ever be 8bit because its a tn panel. I would love for it to have 100% color acuracy over the whole panel but it doesnt. We cant wish for things to change. Also i think its very hard for hdr to be implemented and appreciated on a projector without a fully light controlled room.
Too me im happy with sdr. Id rather invest in some calibration. Which makes me wonder if anyone whos worried about hdr on this pj if they have already done this. 
Also is hdr just another gimmick? 
I forget the exact ratio of this but They say the image is only 20 percent of the experience and the sound is 80 percent. So i now ask you what would you rather. A kickass subwoofer/s and Dolby Atmos or 4k hdr with 2.0 sound system.

Gee you can tell Ive had 1 hour sleep and now im waffling on here. Lol. 730am eek! 

Also isnt blu ray only 8bit. Ive never stopped to think damn that banding is terrible. Because studios hide that stuff. Only time i see banding is on my 8bit monitor when the sky is full in view. And even then i dont worry about it. Also what about the projectors limitations. Its blacks are hardly deep black. Coming from a jvc x7000 its the one thing i miss. The x7000 almost seemed like it painted my off white walls black at times lol. Another thing is there are a ton of sony pj fanboys hating life over in their threads talking about the degradation of the srxd chips lol. Imagine dropping 15k on a pj and its blavks turn grey. Not sure if youve ever been to the cinema and seen a poor contrast image like a cinema not far from me. But obviously they are running Sonys and have suffered that same problem because they use the same tech and them pjs cost a lot more then 15k.
Anyways im ranting and waffling on again. Hope this make sense and has some sort of reason to be typed lol. Also feel free to rip me a new one lol.


----------



## spirithockey79

achanonier said:


> That's the setup I ended with during my tests !
> 
> Gamma + 1 and Contrast 65. But I'm noticd something strange also, I needed to set the HDI range to expended manually whatever the setting of the K8500 (Atdu, YCBCR 4.4.4, RGB limited, RGB Full) it always seems that the UHD blu ray is sent with full range but th eprojecteor on Auto stays on a limited range setting... Its the only source that bhave incorrectly with Auto HDMI range...
> 
> In terms of color I was set on Natural and the Auto color would be R.709 not BT.2020 do I have to switch that manually ? WHen I did colors seemed of in BT2020.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still tryning to figure out if I need to send back teh Samsung to get a Panasonic player? Would I get a brighter image thansk to it's YCBCR 4.2.0 10 bits output ?




Are those settings primarily for UHD HDR viewing? Contrast seems way too high. What is your contrast setting for 1080p non-HDR viewing? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> I wanted to comment on the use of Epson Super White setting. Originally I had it set to OFF because it seemed brighter. But when calibrating with the AVS Calman disc I noticed that the white levels were capable of showing only a few of the shades of white (although still within required specs). Then I switched Super White to ON and boom... was able to see every single one of the shades of white on the spectrum for the 'white level' calibration screen. (Contrast adjustment screen)
> 
> Am I correct in that it is preferable to have a slightly lowered perceived brightness while maintaining full white level capability ?




I completely agree with you. Not sure if having it "ON" is the right setting, but I experienced the same thing when calibrating from a Munsil & Spears disc. Also it just looks better on IMO. When it's off it looks like there's a light haze over the picture. When it's "ON" the blacks look better and colors pop more IMO.

Really interested in feedback from others more experienced with this, just in case it should be "OFF" and other settings should be adjusted accordingly.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## chiltonj

spirithockey79 said:


> I completely agree with you. Not sure if having it "ON" is the right setting, but I experienced the same thing when calibrating from a Munsil & Spears disc. Also it just looks better on IMO. When it's off it looks like there's a light haze over the picture. When it's "ON" the blacks look better and colors pop more IMO.
> 
> Really interested in feedback from others more experienced with this, just in case it should be "OFF" and other settings should be adjusted accordingly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Same, I switched on and off about 20 times with different scenes. I prefer On. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

Jackattack51 said:


> Pretty great if you ask me. Digital Foundry has a pretty comprehensive set of videos about the ps4 pro and the games that take advantage of it. They have done a lot more research into this stuff than me and came away very impressed with the pro's ability to simulate 4k content. (A couple of games, like the last of us and deus ex, are true 4k). And while I haven't been specifically looking for graphical issues, I've played through tomb raider at 4k, and deus ex at 4k HDR, and have been extremely impressed with the results.


Have you compared either game between 1080p , 1080p HDR, 1080p fauxK, 4k pro version? Curious how the 2 versions of the game (pro vs non-pro) match up with various projector settings and which settings are best. Can you force all ps4 pro games to run at 1080p?


----------



## Jackattack51

Viche said:


> Have you compared either game between 1080p , 1080p HDR, 1080p fauxK, 4k pro version? Curious how the 2 versions of the game (pro vs non-pro) match up with various projector settings and which settings are best. Can you force all ps4 pro games to run at 1080p?


I haven't done as much testing as I had planned. Every time I think I might, I get caught up just playing the game. I'm on vacation so hopefully I'll be able to devote some time to it. And you can force the pro to output at 1080p. There are several options:


----------



## WynsWrld98

hatlesschimp said:


> I think everyone needs to take a step back and think about a few things. Does epson say the 9300/6040ub has HDR? I think they may mention it on the site but they dont make a song and dance about it like the TV manufacturers.


From top headline at https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...ctor-with-4K-Enhancement-and-HDR/p/V11H713020


PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB 3LCD Projector with 4K Enhancement and *HDR*​
and on same page: HDR compatible — enjoy HDR content, with an extremely wide range of brightness levels for images bursting with real-life color


----------



## hatlesschimp

WynsWrld98 said:


> From top headline at https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...tor-with-4K-Enhancement-and-HDR/p/V11H713020:
> 
> 
> PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB 3LCD Projector with 4K Enhancement and *HDR*​
> and on same page: HDR compatible — enjoy HDR content, with an extremely wide range of brightness levels for images bursting with real-life color


Dead link?


----------



## WynsWrld98

hatlesschimp said:


> Dead link?


Fixed the link


----------



## hatlesschimp

WynsWrld98 said:


> Fixed the link













Thanks mate!

So what the difference from the 5040ub to the 6040ub? Is the 5040ub the wireless version?


----------



## Threefiddie

Black vs white is the difference. 6040 includes extra bulb and mount


----------



## aaranddeeman

Threefiddie said:


> Black vs white is the difference. 6040 includes extra bulb and mount


And 3 years warranty..


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> I have the Linker too, you are correct.
> 
> With the Linker you'll also activate HDR gaming (4k @8bit instead of full 10bit), and you need the Linker for that, the wireless in it's current state (AKA not patched by Epson) it's not enough (it'ok for hdr movies, not for hdr gaming).



A problem I noticed last night while playing and testing is that I can't seem to get it to send bt2020 without HDR using the Linker between the XB1S and 5040. If I force 2020 on in the Linker it just still shows bt709 being received and 2020 out, which means it's just upconverting the 709, so the XB1S isn't outputting 2020. If I recall this was both wired and wireless. I also had an issue where I couldn't get it to send 4K and it was constantly stuck on 1080p. I eventually rectified that somehow. 

I switched over to the Panasonic and it worked wonderfully as planned and gave me bt2020 without HDR. 

I think this shows that the Xbox One S won't send bt2020 without HDR. It must be a limitation from the Xbox only sending out RGB instead of YCbCr. 

The Moral of the story may be that the XB1S just isn't a good match for the Epson, wired, wireless or Linker regardless. 

I'll try to test more, but if others can try to confirm this it would be great. 



MaximTre said:


> The Linker makes devices think everything is fine (full bandwidth hdmi port), then it converts the signal to what the Epson can display.
> 
> So you'll get an 4k/hdr/60hz/8 bit signal instead of the 10 bit one, but everything will work (Netflix HDR surely works, can't comment on Amazon app as it's not available where I live)



See above. 



Justkidding said:


> Thanks for your opinion. So when you are watching Blurays (24 Hz) you always turn the frame interpolation feature off?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But this is only relevant for TV sources isn't it?
> 
> So what about watching blurays? I assume they are 24p everywhere
> 
> Do you still never use the FI feature? For these sources the FI should act the same shouldn't it?



Yes that's true, it would mostly be for TV and video sources. 24Hz may not be affected, but remember, what I'm talking about is the AC power being different. Not the incoming video source frequency. Maybe the 50Hz power you use makes the FI work a little differently, (or it had to be tweaked for the line frequency at the factory?) than the 60Hz AC we use here?



PetrieLy said:


> Is the wireless version 5040ube worth the extra $500, now that the 5040ub has dropped? Still on the fence which one to get.
> 
> 
> 
> From what I understand, they have different chipset but with the limitation of the wireless one they have the same viewing capabilities as of right now?
> 
> Whats the chance that the limitation of the wireless version gets lifted so we can play 4k/60hz/hdr? Newbie here trying to digest all this information.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



You may just want to get the HDFury Integral or Linker for a lot less than that to make things more compatible. 



c.kingsley said:


> Yes, you need to get the Philips or Panasonic player. Your UHD input needs to be 4:2:2 at 10 or 12 bit. The Samsung only sends 4:4:4, without a firmware update it is incompatible.



There was a FW update for the Samsung that addressed this as I recall. 



k3nnis said:


> Am I correct in saying With the 5040ube wireless HDMI , it will still be limited to 4k60 8bit HDR gaming on Xbox one S?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes, you're correct from what I remember reading.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Threefiddie said:


> Black vs white is the difference. 6040 includes extra bulb and mount


...and an extra year of warranty and some kind of software calibration tools.
As far the the actual projectors, the 6040 and 5040 are IDENTICAL aside from the color.


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks for the info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> It must be a limitation from the Xbox only sending out RGB instead of YCbCr.


I put my Linker on the XB1S last night and found that the input signal was detected by the Linker as RGB regardless of resolution or other settings as well. As you mentioned earlier, standard vs PC RGB on the Xbox is probably just a distinction between where black is clipped. It won't work as a UHD player for the Epson but it can work as a platform for games, HBO, Amazon, Netflix, etc. albeit at 4k60 4:2:0 (HBO is only 1080p as far as I can tell).


----------



## k3nnis

So we can't use Xbox one S with linker and Epson wired as a UHD player? I thought we can output it as 10bit 4:2:0 24Hz?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Why dont we do a mashup of Ps4pro & Xbox one s, then we would have a decent console.


----------



## k3nnis

Yeah I agree 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

k3nnis said:


> So we can't use Xbox one S with linker and Epson wired as a UHD player? I thought we can output it as 10bit 4:2:0 24Hz?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes, you can, but I think it's limited to 8 bit not 10. I was just saying that you have to have HDR active if you want bt2020 wide color gamut. As soon as you defeat HDR, bt2020 goes away too. This isn't the case when you use a Linker with the stand alone UHD BR players like my Philips. You can get only bt2020 without HDR on those with the Linker.


----------



## k3nnis

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, you can, but I think it's limited to 8 bit not 10. I was just saying that you have to have HDR active if you want bt2020 wide color gamut. As soon as you defeat HDR, bt2020 goes away too. This isn't the case when you use a Linker with the stand alone UHD BR players like my Philips. You can get only bt2020 without HDR on those with the Linker.


ok thanks So if I got a samsung 4k BD player for example after the firmware update I can get 4:2:0 [email protected] 10bit even without the linker right? This is with wired as well.


----------



## exm

Okay, I have been doing 30 minutes of testing. Guess I should take pictures.

The Marantz AV8802A upscaling beats the 6040UB 4K enhancement hands down using a 1080P Tivo Roamio DVR signal. Or: the 4K enhancement doesn't work?

Next: Oppo BDP-93.


----------



## aaranddeeman

exm said:


> Okay, I have been doing 30 minutes of testing. Guess I should take pictures.
> 
> The Marantz AV8802A upscaling beats the 6040UB 4K enhancement hands down using a 1080P Tivo Roamio DVR signal. Or: the 4K enhancement doesn't work?
> 
> Next: Oppo BDP-93.


In other words if you feed the 4K source to 6040, it's much better than it (the 6040) upscaling the 1080P


----------



## am2model3

When you game on xbox one s, you will be doing 1080p sdr or 1080p hdr, the games wont be 4k rendered but maybe u meant upscaled.


----------



## rd7723

MaximTre said:


> *Will I be able to steam 4K via Netflix? *
> 4k SDR yes
> 4k HDR no (both wired and wireless)
> 
> *Will I be able to play UHD Bluray discs in 4K?*
> Wired 4k + SDR only
> Wireless 4k + HDR


Does the wireless 5040 have to have an hdmi cable attached to view the uhd hdr content. Or can the hdr signal be transmitted wireless?


----------



## siuengr

siuengr said:


> I got the Samsung K8500 last night. I did the firmware update and it seemed to play a UHD HDR Blu-ray just fine. It came up as bt.2020 in the menu and the picture looked great. When I tried to watch something on Amazon, the K8500 says UHD HDR, but it looks very dark. The 5040 also says 709 HDR2. Is there some other setting that I am missing for the Amazon app to display HDR correctly?


Any thoughts on this? I thought Amazon HDR worked on the K8500.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

any hope that the Netflix app on Philips (or the new Oppo) will support HDR? my current phillips doesn't, but Im hearing conflicting messages whether it's the app fault or the projector.


----------



## ndabunka

MaximTre said:


> *Will I be able to steam 4K via Netflix? *
> 4k SDR yes
> 4k HDR no (both wired and wireless)
> 
> *Will I be able to play UHD Bluray discs in 4K?*
> *Wired 4k + SDR only*
> Wireless 4k + HDR


I see statements like this from you a lot of times on here. You CAN play UHD Bluray disc in 4K AND get HDR. LOTS of us are doing just THAT! Wireless has NOTHING to do with it!

Now, there are some issues with 60Hz signals that some are using in conjunction with games that may have some issues but the UHD discs themselves played on my (and everyone elses) Bluray players DOES support 4K + HDR hard wired.


----------



## ndabunka

Everdog said:


> So if I buy the wireless version I can get 4k + HDR from UHD Bluray discs?
> I might have to replace the long HDMI cable to the projector anyway, so this could be an option for me.


You don't NEED to buy the wireless. The wired version DOES support 4K & HDR from UHD Bluray discs as long as the BluRay player is functioning properly. In some cases, that may mean that the player itself may need a patch (Samsung). Panasonic and Phillips do provide this functionality right out of the box.


----------



## Dave Harper

k3nnis said:


> ok thanks So if I got a samsung 4k BD player for example after the firmware update I can get 4:2:0 [email protected] 10bit even without the linker right? This is with wired as well.



I don't own nor have I ever seen the Samsung in action so I can't comment on that. I'll leave it up to some owners to chime in on this one, sorry. I just remembered reading that the Samsungs got a FW update, but don't recall exactly what it did to fix the connection issues.


----------



## k3nnis

Maybe he means on the Xbox one S


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

k3nnis said:


> Maybe he means on the Xbox one S
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Maybe and just maybe...


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> Maybe and just maybe...




 I sent you a pm 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> A problem I noticed last night while playing and testing is that I can't seem to get it to send bt2020 without HDR using the Linker between the XB1S and 5040. If I force 2020 on in the Linker it just still shows bt709 being received and 2020 out, which means it's just upconverting the 709, so the XB1S isn't outputting 2020. If I recall this was both wired and wireless. I also had an issue where I couldn't get it to send 4K and it was constantly stuck on 1080p. I eventually rectified that somehow.
> I switched over to the Panasonic and it worked wonderfully as planned and gave me bt2020 without HDR.


You need on the fly hdr->sdr conversion for xbox and ps4, it won't work otherwise (so a pc is needed so send the custom hdr bit).
With samsung and panasonic player you can set edid 10 in Linker configuration and get automatic conversion.
Check the Linker thread for more info.


----------



## MaximTre

c.kingsley said:


> I put my Linker on the XB1S last night and found that the input signal was detected by the Linker as RGB regardless of resolution or other settings as well. As you mentioned earlier, standard vs PC RGB on the Xbox is probably just a distinction between where black is clipped. It won't work as a UHD player for the Epson but it can work as a platform for games, HBO, Amazon, Netflix, etc. albeit at 4k60 4:2:0 (HBO is only 1080p as far as I can tell).


Rgb on the xbox it' just limited vs full range.
According to Linker stats chroma it's 4:2:0 while gaming (and dashboard), 4:4:4 in movies.


----------



## MaximTre

k3nnis said:


> So we can't use Xbox one S with linker and Epson wired as a UHD player? I thought we can output it as 10bit 4:2:0 24Hz?


Yes, you can, full 10 bit, the 8bit signal is for gaming (60hz), as there isn't enough hdmi bandwidth for a 10bit signal.


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> Yes, you can, full 10 bit, the 8bit signal is for gaming (60hz), as there isn't enough hdmi bandwidth for a 10bit signal.




Ok thanks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

am2model3 said:


> When you game on xbox one s, you will be doing 1080p sdr or 1080p hdr, the games wont be 4k rendered but maybe u meant upscaled.


The problem with the xbox is it won't allow 1080p/hdr gaming (as the ps4 pro does), even if the signal it's upscaled it has to be a 4k one. So without a full band hdmi port hdr gaming it's not supported at all, that's why you need a Linker, to fake a full band hdmi port.


----------



## MaximTre

Here's the Xbox One S recap (sorry for the exotic language, I already had them on my phone).

Wired


Wireless


Linker


----------



## achanonier

spirithockey79 said:


> Are those settings primarily for UHD HDR viewing? Contrast seems way too high. What is your contrast setting for 1080p non-HDR viewing?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yep just for HDR to get brighter mid range. For regular SDR everything is at 50.


----------



## k3nnis

Too blurry I can't see it on my iPhone 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MaximTre

k3nnis said:


> Too blurry I can't see it on my iPhone
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's just thumbnails, click for full image.


----------



## k3nnis

Lol my fault I was using view in gallery on Tapatalk. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## achanonier

Dynamic not so bad in SDR


----------



## achanonier

Hi there again.

I'm decided I'l return the Samsung and wait for the Oppo Player that will have more options for HDR--> SDR convertion. And also I hope it will be able to split the HDMI in signal to get audio aout only in teh second HDMI... (y receiver is not HDMI 2.23 compatible)


----------



## achanonier

I also want to share something with you guys : for those that hear the whining noise from the projector when 4k enhancement and 60hz is on I fugured out a solution on my projector.
I tend to be very picky at things.

I figured out this noise can change dramasticaly with the following factors : 

Room configuration : wave lenght of the sound and room proportions are linked (i have a square room which is teh worst case for stationary waves)
Mount type : Mine is nearly silent when revers mounted but more noisy when standing on its feet.
Ear to projector distance : I have dead silent spots , mid noisy ones, and even noisier ones in my room. My seating position is in the mid noisy area and canot be changed (see room configuration)

My projector is inside a kind of box that I realised make it worse because of whining reflexion (on the other hand I can't nearly hear the fan)


After experimenting I finally made thoses changes : I've put some cork in the box and added some foam on the side of the projector to eliminate sound reflexions --> The whining noise was nearly gone but still here (could not be heard in a movie though), but I wanted it to be GONE. 


Then I figured out that simply putting my hand on a specific aera on top of the projector just above the lens it would completely eliminate the noise.

It my particular case I 've inserted a little piece of foam (1 coin size) between the top of the projector and my ceiling. From then the whining noise is completety gone wherever I am in the room !!!!!


Here is what it looks like (the foam on the side is now more aestetic and fits the complete height of the box).


And that's the actual room


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Nice and clean. Very nice.


----------



## MaximTre

achanonier said:


> I also want to share something with you guys : for those that hear the whining noise from the projector when 4k enhancement and 60hz is on I fugured out a solution on my projector.


I can tell you on my unit, after a bit more than 100hrs, the dreaded coil whine is greatly reduced. Not as bad as the first hours.
I really hope it totally goes away, I hate it.


----------



## am2model3

Awesome movie projection room!! Also thank u for posting the xbox one s images stats for wired wireless and linker! I cant wait to try this all out next week!!


----------



## achanonier

Thanks guys for the nice comments !
That's my "noise room" --> guitar playing, home theater and gaming place !


----------



## hatlesschimp

Rise of the Tomb Raider on PS4Pro is EPIC with the 6040ub / tw9300. 

My god its amazing! 

No screen tearing. Couldnt see any pixels and the sound is just as amazing. Only played the first scene and a bit so far but I had to stop so I can share it with my wife. She loves watching me play 3rd person games like Tomb Raider.

Screen caps from the video Im putting together.


----------



## achanonier

Did you set the game to 4k or 1080p with enhanced graphics ?


----------



## hatlesschimp

achanonier said:


> Dis you set the game to 4k or 1080p with enhanced graphics ?


Set to 4k (3840 x 2160p) 8bit 59.94hz .709 - with Preset 3 on and Natural selected.

Looked great! Really impressed actually! I was on the fence with the PS4Pro but now Im glad I seen Tomb Raider at 110". Only thing missing is Atmos! Oh and the the uhd disc drive that they neglected to put in. I swear it will haunt Sony!

Was impressed with the streams I was able to perform whilst outputting a pseudo 4k signal. My first ever in console streams to YouTube. Pretty cool how it works. Elgato must be spewing!

Watch Dogs 2 did nothing for me game wise. I dont like the game-play. Looked decent visually but Tomb raider is a marvel!


----------



## Colin Goddard

What a bummer! 

I always thought my 6040 was a little slow producing an image on initial start up compared to my Epson 5020 and 8100. It takes about 45 seconds to 2 minutes.. I thought well this is a totally new machine and this is the nature of beast....

So I fired it up last night, the door opened, and after 2 minutes closed!..You have got to be kidding me!.. It had flashing blue light along with solid orange..Looked up owners manual and it said lamp problem. Unplug it and plug it back in.. Which I did and the bulb started right up!..BTW, there is only 69 hours on this machine!!...

Although it came back on I called Epson CS and they gave me a case number.. I just wanted them to have record of this event.. I'm guessing maybe a sensor problem?.. If this happens again I will have to send it back. I just DO NOT want a refurbished unit! I bought this from Mike here at AV and have not contacted him yet.. 

Sorry all, I just had to vent some, Happy Thanksgiving!...


----------



## am2model3

Awesome rise of tomb raider ps4pro! Thank you for sharing! Once i get my epson rise of tomb might be my first game to play 4k!! Cant wait to see it and glad to hear its spectacular!!


----------



## NoTechi

MaximTre said:


> The problem with the xbox is it won't allow 1080p/hdr gaming (as the ps4 pro does), even if the signal it's upscaled it has to be a 4k one. So without a full band hdmi port hdr gaming it's not supported at all, that's why you need a Linker, to fake a full band hdmi port.


First of thanks for sharing your experiences with the linker!

Even though I am getting closer I am still a bit confused and hopefully you can clarify it 

I have the wireless Epson and the xbox one s. As far as I understood the xbox one s is sending games in 60Hz same for Netflix. The Epsons only support 4:2:0 8bit with 60Hz. The linker can't convert 60Hz to 24Hz. If now the xbox sends a 4k HDR 60Hz signal to the linker, the linker will convert it to a 1080p with HDR?
So I would be able to play games and Netflix in 1080p with HDR? Would the projector upscale this again to 4k?

And the most important question do you see a difference between down and then upscaled HDR content (with linker) compared to 4k without HDR (without linker)?

Sorry for all those questions but I am really struggeling if the linker would be a good investment 

NoTechi


----------



## dholmes54

First Happy Thanksgiving everyone,my Epson 6020 has always took several seconds to come on and produce a image,called Epson & they said it was the way it was designed.I called Epson about the 6040 and the firmware upgrade & couldn't understand the girl,she must have been from a foreign country I'm not a bigot, just couldn't understand her,so what does it do?Also how do you guys like blu-rays up converted to 2160p on the 6040,I can tell a difference on my Vizio 65in.Its going to be a long time till I go the ultra blu-ray,sick of the changing formats and I've got so many blu-rays.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

hatlesschimp said:


> Set to 4k (3840 x 2160p) 8bit 59.94hz .709 - with Preset 3 on and Natural selected.
> 
> 
> 
> Looked great! Really impressed actually! I was on the fence with the PS4Pro but now Im glad I seen Tomb Raider at 110". Only thing missing is Atmos! Oh and the the uhd disc drive that they neglected to put in. I swear it will haunt Sony!
> 
> 
> 
> Was impressed with the streams I was able to perform whilst outputting a pseudo 4k signal. My first ever in console streams to YouTube. Pretty cool how it works. Elgato must be spewing!
> 
> 
> 
> Watch Dogs 2 did nothing for me game wise. I dont like the game-play. Looked decent visually but Tomb raider is a marvel!



do u prefer 4k over 1080p/HDR setting?


----------



## hatlesschimp

ana_moo_ana said:


> do u prefer 4k over 1080p/HDR setting?


Can't comment yet. More needs to be played.


----------



## am2model3

Im interested to compare 2160p dsr to 1080p and doing 2160p on epson!!


----------



## jsil

Hi hatlesschimp,

Saw your youtube video playing Tomb Raider and it looked great. Must be better seen it in person than on youtube lol.


----------



## schmidtwi

achanonier said:


> Here is what it looks like (the foam on the side is now more aestetic and fits the complete height of the box).


 



Very nice looking room! 


So there's enough lens shift to have this PJ sitting upright in a ceiling level box?




:-/


----------



## k3nnis

How does tomb raider on the Xbox one S compare to the ps4pro?  I just purchased Xbox one S 500gb Wii tomb raider and BF1. Will be coming Monday hopefully.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

I've seen a few guys post about upscaling the image with their receiver and pushing it to the 5040/6040 and the image is much better than if you just let the projector try to upscale. Is this the recommended way to upscale for this projector?


----------



## sddp

NoTechi said:


> First of thanks for sharing your experiences with the linker!
> 
> Even though I am getting closer I am still a bit confused and hopefully you can clarify it
> 
> I have the wireless Epson and the xbox one s. As far as I understood the xbox one s is sending games in 60Hz same for Netflix. The Epsons only support 4:2:0 8bit with 60Hz. The linker can't convert 60Hz to 24Hz. If now the xbox sends a 4k HDR 60Hz signal to the linker, the linker will convert it to a 1080p with HDR?
> So I would be able to play games and Netflix in 1080p with HDR? Would the projector upscale this again to 4k?
> 
> And the most important question do you see a difference between down and then upscaled HDR content (with linker) compared to 4k without HDR (without linker)?
> 
> Sorry for all those questions but I am really struggeling if the linker would be a good investment
> 
> NoTechi



I'm in the same boat so looking for suggestions as well. Btw what cable are you using when connecting the Xbox to the wireless?
Would be great to get everyone's feedback. I am looking at about 3 meters. Would rather buy something that is more than I need to future proof it and not buy again and again.


----------



## Daniel Ryan Mueller

Question. 

Since the 5040ub can not do hdr from a pc input at 4k 60 fps due to the bandwidth limitations, would i be able to do HDR content, at 1440p, 60+ fps?

Jw if there was a way to balance out the res with color quality in pc gaming. thanks


----------



## McBadden

exm said:


> HA, figures!
> 
> So far I only tested Tivo DVR HD material. I want to test a Blu Ray soon. With DVR I don't see any difference.


With DVR material I don't see much of difference either, but I certainly do with a good Blu Ray disc. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## McBadden

achanonier said:


> I also want to share something with you guys : for those that hear the whining noise from the projector when 4k enhancement and 60hz is on I fugured out a solution on my projector.
> I tend to be very picky at things.
> 
> I figured out this noise can change dramasticaly with the following factors :
> 
> Room configuration : wave lenght of the sound and room proportions are linked (i have a square room which is teh worst case for stationary waves)
> Mount type : Mine is nearly silent when revers mounted but more noisy when standing on its feet.
> Ear to projector distance : I have dead silent spots , mid noisy ones, and even noisier ones in my room. My seating position is in the mid noisy area and canot be changed (see room configuration)
> 
> My projector is inside a kind of box that I realised make it worse because of whining reflexion (on the other hand I can't nearly hear the fan)
> 
> 
> After experimenting I finally made thoses changes : I've put some cork in the box and added some foam on the side of the projector to eliminate sound reflexions --> The whining noise was nearly gone but still here (could not be heard in a movie though), but I wanted it to be GONE.
> 
> 
> Then I figured out that simply putting my hand on a specific aera on top of the projector just above the lens it would completely eliminate the noise.
> 
> It my particular case I 've inserted a little piece of foam (1 coin size) between the top of the projector and my ceiling. From then the whining noise is completety gone wherever I am in the room !!!!!
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like (the foam on the side is now more aestetic and fits the complete height of the box).
> 
> 
> And that's the actual room


Very nice, I love your room!

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## dataJunkie

SLightly off topic, but asking as I'm trying to get [email protected] on this PJ ... I have an nVidia 1700 in my HTPC, but cannot select 60hz from the nVidia Control panel when changing resolutions. ... the only resolutions that will allow me to select 60hz is 1080p and 3840 x 2160 (which it defaults to 'Native' when the 6040 is turned on).

Has anyone else been able to have 60Hz running on a res other than those mentioned?

Cheers,

n


----------



## NoTechi

sddp said:


> I'm in the same boat so looking for suggestions as well. Btw what cable are you using when connecting the Xbox to the wireless?
> Would be great to get everyone's feedback. I am looking at about 3 meters. Would rather buy something that is more than I need to future proof it and not buy again and again.



I have a receiver in between and everything is close together. Xbox to receiver I use the xbox hdmi cable and I got a 1m cable from the shop I bought the Receiver from which I use to connect the wireless.


NoTechi


----------



## Migeye

achanonier said:


> I
> 
> It my particular case I 've inserted a little piece of foam (1 coin size) between the top of the projector and my ceiling. From then the whining noise is completety gone wherever I am in the room !!!!!
> 
> 
> Here is what it looks like (the foam on the side is now more aestetic and fits the complete height of the box).


First, great room, so nice HT.
Second, thanks for the tip, going to try this because it's indeed annoying.


----------



## Everdog

ndabunka said:


> You don't NEED to buy the wireless. The wired version DOES support 4K & HDR from UHD Bluray discs as long as the BluRay player is functioning properly. In some cases, that may mean that the player itself may need a patch (Samsung). Panasonic and Phillips do provide this functionality right out of the box.



It doesn't make sense buying a 2nd UHD player when I will be using the Xbox One S. 
Also, no matter what there is a bottle neck of 300MHz with the wired version. The standard allows for double that. 


And so am I right in saying that even with the HD Fury Linker, it is impossible to get more bandwidth than 300MHz? Wouldn't the BEST solution be to use the Link AND the wireless version which should allow for 450MHz?


I could very well be wrong, and if so, could someone explain the fault in my logic?


----------



## brianlvi3

Hey guys,

I am in process of upgrading my HT room. Right now I have the Marantz AV7702, Oppo 103 and Epson 5020UB. I already have purchased (not hooked up yet) the Marantz AV7702mkii. I will be purchasing the new Oppo 4K player when available hopefully soon and a new PJ. I loved the 5020 and have been watching the 5040UB. My question is this;

Since the Epson is not a true 4K PJ, is it gong to be making a huge difference in picture quality. I would think it would but wanted to ask since it is not a true 4K PJ. In other words am i kind of wasting it on the PJ and the processor? Would just upgrading the to the Oppo allow it to just upscale everything anyway without having to pass a true 4K signal?

Or maybe wait for a 4K PJ to come down in price. Just wondering opinions. Thanks as always.


----------



## Threefiddie

k3nnis said:


> How does tomb raider on the Xbox one S compare to the ps4pro?  I just purchased Xbox one S 500gb Wii tomb raider and BF1. Will be coming Monday hopefully.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


tomb raider on xbox will look no where near as good as TR on the ps4 pro. PC version is still vastly superior to both anyways but the pro version can do 4k 30 fps or 1080p 60 over the xbox's sub upscaled to 1080 30fps version.


----------



## rjguk

Colin Goddard said:


> What a bummer!
> 
> I always thought my 6040 was a little slow producing an image on initial start up compared to my Epson 5020 and 8100. It takes about 45 seconds to 2 minutes.. I thought well this is a totally new machine and this is the nature of beast....
> 
> So I fired it up last night, the door opened, and after 2 minutes closed!..You have got to be kidding me!.. It had flashing blue light along with solid orange..Looked up owners manual and it said lamp problem. Unplug it and plug it back in.. Which I did and the bulb started right up!..BTW, there is only 69 hours on this machine!!...
> 
> Although it came back on I called Epson CS and they gave me a case number.. I just wanted them to have record of this event.. I'm guessing maybe a sensor problem?.. If this happens again I will have to send it back. I just DO NOT want a refurbished unit! I bought this from Mike here at AV and have not contacted him yet..
> 
> Sorry all, I just had to vent some, Happy Thanksgiving!...


My 7300 (5040) did the same at 107 hours. Just once, and unplugging it and restarting did appear to clear it.
I asked my dealer about it and he said that he's seen instances of it with every Epson pj, but never enough to worry about. The warranty is there...

My guess is that it gradually 'learns' the characteristics of that particular lamp while trying very slightly different control parameters and just occasionally the arc doesn't work properly. Then it works after that. (Of course it may just be dumb)


----------



## brianlvi3

rjguk said:


> My 7300 (5040) did the same at 107 hours. Just once, and unplugging it and restarting did appear to clear it.
> I asked my dealer about it and he said that he's seen instances of it with every Epson pj, but never enough to worry about. The warranty is there...
> 
> My guess is that it gradually 'learns' the characteristics of that particular lamp while trying very slightly different control parameters and just occasionally the arc doesn't work properly. Then it works after that. (Of course it may just be dumb)


My 5020 has done that a few times over 3-4 years also.


----------



## hatlesschimp

The Tomb Raider + Ps4Pro video as promised.


----------



## Colin Goddard

rjguk said:


> My 7300 (5040) did the same at 107 hours. Just once, and unplugging it and restarting did appear to clear it.
> I asked my dealer about it and he said that he's seen instances of it with every Epson pj, but never enough to worry about. The warranty is there...
> 
> My guess is that it gradually 'learns' the characteristics of that particular lamp while trying very slightly different control parameters and just occasionally the arc doesn't work properly. Then it works after that. (Of course it may just be dumb)


Thanks for the reply!...I have cold started my 6020 twice now since it shut down on me.. The good news is it has never been so fast to produce the Epson logo!.. I get an image with in 15 seconds, no blinking lights, and no closing of the lens door!..Nice!.. And as was mentioned, there is Epson's warranty...CS has been excellent with me with my last 2 projectors!..


----------



## schmidtwi

I just ordered my 5040ub from Mike Garrett at AV Science Sales - a great Black Friday special deal!!! Anyone on the fence about this unit should call Mike today!


The Epson will replace a BenQ 1070 - which is a great 1080P unit. Put up a very nice 135" 16x9 picture. This unit will get listed in the Classified forum soon.


Going through several major upgrades in my temporary HT this week. Bought a Denon X4300H, and set up ATMOS 7.2.4. Upgraded from a Denon 4311ci - which is an awesome unit (now for sale in the 'Classified' forum). But the X4300H is absolutely astounding with the new sound formats. 


Cool story - I actually ordered a Denon X4200W at closeout price. But they shipped me the new unit with "Free Upgrade to Denon X4300H!!" written on the Sales Invoice. What a fantastic early Christmas present!!


I'm also picking up an XBOX ONE S today, so I'll have plenty of 4K content to view. One last upgrade is an Ultimax UM18-22 sub, to round out a 4 sub set up (2-18's & 2 15's).


----------



## k3nnis

Threefiddie said:


> tomb raider on xbox will look no where near as good as TR on the ps4 pro. PC version is still vastly superior to both anyways but the pro version can do 4k 30 fps or 1080p 60 over the xbox's sub upscaled to 1080 30fps version.




How about a ps4 slim? What's the performance?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## am2model3

The epson 5040/6040 can perform as well or better than a sony 665es!!


----------



## cliffjrm

Anybody running this projector over 150 inches and have feedback they can share? I'm looking at using a Screen Innovations 160 inch Slate ALR motorized flush drop down screen. Also, how would I calculate the ideal throw distance be for brightest picture for 160 inch? I didn't want to go quite this big but ideally I want to block two large windows behind the screen for obvious reasons. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Everdog

I just realized my old Epson projector used IR 3D glasses. None work with this new one.

Will any RF 3D glass work with this projector? I don't watch 3D movies very often and would like to get a just a few generic or 'cheap' 3D RF glasses.


----------



## Halichopter

*Cheap 3D Glasses*



Everdog said:


> I just realized my old Epson projector used IR 3D glasses. None work with this new one.
> 
> Will any RF 3D glass work with this projector? I don't watch 3D movies very often and would like to get a just a few generic or 'cheap' 3D RF glasses.


I got 2 3D RF glasses from Ebay for $37 and they seem to work fine. They took a long time to ship, from China, however.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152066336698


----------



## Dave Harper

am2model3 said:


> The epson 5040/6040 can perform as well or better than a sony 665es!!



May I ask what you're basing that statement on? Head to head calibrated shootout in an optimal environment?

I did that, but using the 665es' lower sibling, the 350es, and that even slightly outperformed the 5040UBe I also have here. 



Everdog said:


> I just realized my old Epson projector used IR 3D glasses. None work with this new one.
> 
> 
> 
> Will any RF 3D glass work with this projector? I don't watch 3D movies very often and would like to get a just a few generic or 'cheap' 3D RF glasses.



I think the best cheap ones to use are the Samsung 5100/5150 glasses. I saw them at Best Buy online last week for $19 ea.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Quick Xbox One S question. I realize that games can't be played in HDR because of the bandwidth limitation. But what about a bluray?

Will the Xbox one play a 4K HDR Movie correctly?


----------



## NoTechi

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Quick Xbox One S question. I realize that games can't be played in HDR because of the bandwidth limitation. But what about a bluray?
> 
> Will the Xbox one play a 4K HDR Movie correctly?


Samsung, Panasonic and Sony UHD players now (after some firmware patching) have been reported to work correctly. Xbox One S will only play 4k HDR via wireless (one of the reasons I returned my non wireless to get the wireless version). Wired you will not get HDR.

NoTechi


----------



## hatlesschimp

cliffjrm said:


> Anybody running this projector over 150 inches and have feedback they can share? I'm looking at using a Screen Innovations 160 inch Slate ALR motorized flush drop down screen. Also, how would I calculate the ideal throw distance be for brightest picture for 160 inch? I didn't want to go quite this big but ideally I want to block two large windows behind the screen for obvious reasons. Thanks in advance!


Whats your seat position? Only info and knowledge i can draw on is Rich @ OzTheaterScreens said it was too pixelated at 160" or 170" 16:9 but he also loves to sit close to the image and is used to highend Sony and JVC. He didnt tell me what his seating position was from screen. Manual says up to 300" is possible! Im going 135" cinemascope which isnt too far off with the offscreen image added to make 16:9. Im still 4 weeks away from getting the pj setup in the new house so cant say from personal experience. Not sure if this helps but best to get the PJ first and project onto wall and see what your comfortable with. I found at my new house the image height of the 135" is perfect for 16:9 gaming for me. Also consider not all tv looks great blown up. Some sport isnt 1080p still.


----------



## D'ultimate

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Quick Xbox One S question. I realize that games can't be played in HDR because of the bandwidth limitation. But what about a bluray?
> 
> Will the Xbox one play a 4K HDR Movie correctly?





ndabunka said:


> You don't NEED to buy the wireless. The wired version DOES support 4K & HDR from UHD Bluray discs as long as the BluRay player is functioning properly. In some cases, that may mean that the player itself may need a patch (Samsung). Panasonic and Phillips do provide this functionality right out of the box.


From my understanding reading the thread the XB1 S can do Bluray and UHD Bluray with HDR. Just not games.


----------



## Iccy

How much latency does the wireless unit add to the overall lag on the 5040ube or 6040?


----------



## NoTechi

D'ultimate said:


> From my understanding reading the thread the XB1 S can do Bluray and UHD Bluray with HDR. Just not games.


No it can't. I had the wired version before and with xbox one s you will get 4k but no HDR. Just the wireless will give you UHD with 4k HDR.

NoTechi


----------



## NoTechi

Iccy said:


> How much latency does the wireless unit add to the overall lag on the 5040ube or 6040?


I don't have any numbers but I don't "feel" any difference to the wired version. It's really good. Only downside is I recognize some sync problems from time to time. But that's just in the initial sync when I switch content like from my media player to the xbox with different resolution or sometimes even within the xbox going from a game to Netflix. Once the connection is established I never have any problems.
I am playing Tomb Raider on the Xbox One S atm and its totally smooth and fantastic quality on wireless connection and I can't see any difference to the ps4 pro YouTube version which is posted in this thread. But that might also be caused by looking at the YouTube version. Having both side by side might be a different story. Also keep in mind I am just a casual user and not a pixel counter  

NoTechi


----------



## Threefiddie

k3nnis said:


> How about a ps4 slim? What's the performance?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


just normal 1080 30fps


----------



## k3nnis

Threefiddie said:


> just normal 1080 30fps




Ok thanks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

Originally Posted by D'ultimate...
From my understanding reading the thread the XB1 S can do Bluray and UHD Bluray with HDR. Just not games.



NoTechi said:


> No it can't. I had the wired version before and with xbox one s you will get 4k but no HDR. Just the wireless will give you UHD with 4k HDR.
> NoTechi


Let's be clear here. For 24/30Hz signals the 5040/6040 units OBVIOUSLY DO get 4K HDR from numerous bluray sources (Phillips, Panasonic, Patched Samsung, etc) when delivering the UHD specification of 24fps so if the XB1S can't do it via the wired interface then that problem remains within XB1S.

Are you saying that you had problems with 4K & HDR simultaneously with source content delivered through the wired interfaces at frame rates that are not in compliance with the UHD specs? Perhaps something sent at frame rates in excess of 30fps? if that is the case then...... it has been a well-known issue for about 2 months now since we learned of the 10.2 hardwired limitation in these Epsons


----------



## mwaarna

New Review of the Epson 5040 (Nov 25th):
http://4k.com/projector/epson-5040ub-review-4k-hdr-projector/


----------



## cliffjrm

hatlesschimp said:


> cliffjrm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody running this projector over 150 inches and have feedback they can share? I'm looking at using a Screen Innovations 160 inch Slate ALR motorized flush drop down screen. Also, how would I calculate the ideal throw distance be for brightest picture for 160 inch? I didn't want to go quite this big but ideally I want to block two large windows behind the screen for obvious reasons. Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> Whats your seat position? Only info and knowledge i can draw on is Rich @ OzTheaterScreens said it was too pixelated at 160" or 170" 16:9 but he also loves to sit close to the image and is used to highend Sony and JVC. He didnt tell me what his seating position was from screen. Manual says up to 300" is possible! Im going 135" cinemascope which isnt too far off with the offscreen image added to make 16:9. Im still 4 weeks away from getting the pj setup in the new house so cant say from personal experience. Not sure if this helps but best to get the PJ first and project onto wall and see what your comfortable with. I found at my new house the image height of the 135" is perfect for 16:9 gaming for me. Also consider not all tv looks great blown up. Some sport isnt 1080p still.
Click to expand...

My seating position is between 12 and 14 ft back from the screen.

How close was he sitting to get that opinion?

Would the JVC or Sony 600/665/365 be a better choice for that screen size?

Sports is huge to me so not sure if a higher end Sony true 4K projector or even the high end JVC would get me better results for TV viewing at large screen sizes.

Thanks for the response!


----------



## gnolivos

I've built a simple masking system ($100) now that I have motorized lens shift. My screen is 16:9. For 2.35:1 content I simply shift the image all the way down towards the bottom of the screen, and I roll down a masking 'shade' to cover the top black bar. It's a simple and effective solution without having to resort to masking the bottom. Love it.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> I've built a simple masking system ($100) now that I have motorized lens shift. My screen is 16:9. For 2.35:1 content I simply shift the image all the way down towards the bottom of the screen, and I roll down a masking 'shade' to cover the top black bar. It's a simple and effective solution without having to resort to masking the bottom. Love it.


Genius idea..


----------



## Eric_Connelly

So the wireless version will do 4K/60FPS/HDR with a PS 4 Pro?

That seems to be a whole lotta bandwidth for wireless, is it proprietary?

I am ready to buy in the next few days and the bandwidth thing does have me concerned.

Is the 6040 worth it over the 5040 for the additional tuning capability?


----------



## Threefiddie

Eric_Connelly said:


> So the wireless version will do 4K/60FPS/HDR with a PS 4 Pro?


nope. sure won't. not all 4k 60fps(wireless is 30hz) hdr. all at the same time.


----------



## hatlesschimp

cliffjrm said:


> My seating position is between 12 and 14 ft back from the screen.
> 
> How close was he sitting to get that opinion?
> 
> Would the JVC or Sony 600/665/365 be a better choice for that screen size?
> 
> Sports is huge to me so not sure if a higher end Sony true 4K projector or even the high end JVC would get me better results for TV viewing at large screen sizes.
> 
> Thanks for the response!


I will call him later and see.

I found the JVC x7000 wasnt the best with motion. Better for movies. You need to check that the Sonys do 60hz 4k etc. Not sure if its 30hz or 24hz only? I remember reading a lad bought one but couldnt play a game at 4k. Might be different story for tv. Honestly I cant comment other than the sony are known for good motion control. But seriously the Epson is pretty damn good. And and anything above it your chasing the Nth degree which only shows with true 4k content and gaming at 4k with hdr etc.


----------



## am2model3

Does this projector do 120hz with 1080p content? Can it be turned off? Is the 2160p content max out at 60hz? Is the 120hz mode essentially called frame interpolation on the menu or other name? Ill find out next week but was curious. Just got a cheap 4k tv from black friday and learned how to turn off 120hz true motion.


----------



## JewDaddy

mwaarna said:


> New Review of the Epson 5040 (Nov 25th):
> http://4k.com/projector/epson-5040ub-review-4k-hdr-projector/


Thanks for posting this review!

I do have a question about watching 4K blu-rays. It mentions in the review and I've also seen this mentioned on the threads, that it plays 4K blu-rays at 60fps. Here is a quote from the review. 

"The 5040UB natively handles 4K ultra HD video sources at a smooth 60 frames per second and the effect on movies and games played on this device is one of low motion blur, smooth motion nf very little in the way of artifacts or judder."

I'm very confused by that comment. I saw the first Hobbit movie in 48fps 3D and it looked smooth without any judder. Looked a lot like when CFI is engaged at high. But that's not what I see when watching a 4K blu-ray. It looks blurry and has judder, especially when the camera pans. Is it really playing 4K blu-rays at 60fps or is it the normal 24???


----------



## am2model3

Can the 5040 let u choose 60fps or 24fps true film modes for blu ray and ultra blu rays?


----------



## MaximTre

ndabunka said:


> Originally Posted by D'ultimate...
> From my understanding reading the thread the XB1 S can do Bluray and UHD Bluray with HDR. Just not games.
> 
> 
> 
> Let's be clear here. For 24/30Hz signals the 5040/6040 units OBVIOUSLY DO get 4K HDR from numerous bluray sources (Phillips, Panasonic, Patched Samsung, etc) when delivering the UHD specification of 24fps so if the XB1S can't do it via the wired interface then that problem remains within XB1S.
> 
> Are you saying that you had problems with 4K & HDR simultaneously with source content delivered through the wired interfaces at frame rates that are not in compliance with the UHD specs? Perhaps something sent at frame rates in excess of 30fps? if that is the case then...... it has been a well-known issue for about 2 months now since we learned of the 10.2 hardwired limitation in these Epsons


It's an Xbox limitation, just as it was for the Samsung player before the patch.
In details, the xbox is sending a 4:4:4 signal that exceeds the 300mhz bandwidth of the wired port (it works with tha 450mhz bandwidth of the wireless).
It's the same exact thing the Samsung player was doing prior the patch.
There's no need for that, so it can be patched, but Microsoft still hasn't.


----------



## MaximTre

JewDaddy said:


> Is it really playing 4K blu-rays at 60fps or is it the normal 24???


Normal 24hz.


----------



## MaximTre

NoTechi said:


> I don't have any numbers but I don't "feel" any difference to the wired version.


There's should be no lag, it's a proprietary epson technology.
It's a direct connection, it won't support multiple devices, but it's as good as a cable.


----------



## MaximTre

Daniel Ryan Mueller said:


> Question.
> 
> Since the 5040ub can not do hdr from a pc input at 4k 60 fps due to the bandwidth limitations, would i be able to do HDR content, at 1440p, 60+ fps?
> 
> Jw if there was a way to balance out the res with color quality in pc gaming. thanks


Yes, it works @ 1440p, you can get hdr.
You select the hdr option, than you can select the resolutio you want, even 480p, it doesn't matter.
It tried with both (literally 2) games that supports hdr on pc.


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> I think the best cheap ones to use are the Samsung 5100/5150 glasses. I saw them at Best Buy online last week for $19 ea.


100% correct!
I have latest 3 generations of Samung glasses 3xxx, 4xxx, 5xxxx, they all work and perform exactly the same.
A prefer the 3xxx as they have slighty bigger lens.


----------



## hatlesschimp

So Ive now played the following on PS4Pro and recommend all of them with the Epson tw9300 projector.
Battlefield 1
Watchdogs2 even though i dont like the game.
The last of us
Fifa 17
Rise of the Tomb Raider 
Soon will try COD

Unfortunately no 4k HDR but 4k is more than enough and makes the normal ps4 look like ps3 graphics. 1080p hdr isnt worgh it if you have 4k even at 8bit.
Also I believe battlefield1 in 4k on PS4Pro is better than PC 4k on the Epson tw9300/ 6040ub. 
Yeah you loose keyboard and mouse but the game runs real smooth and dont need a super expensive pc.


----------



## NoTechi

ndabunka said:


> Originally Posted by D'ultimate...
> From my understanding reading the thread the XB1 S can do Bluray and UHD Bluray with HDR. Just not games.
> 
> 
> 
> Let's be clear here. For 24/30Hz signals the 5040/6040 units OBVIOUSLY DO get 4K HDR from numerous bluray sources (Phillips, Panasonic, Patched Samsung, etc) when delivering the UHD specification of 24fps so if the XB1S can't do it via the wired interface then that problem remains within XB1S.
> 
> Are you saying that you had problems with 4K & HDR simultaneously with source content delivered through the wired interfaces at frame rates that are not in compliance with the UHD specs? Perhaps something sent at frame rates in excess of 30fps? if that is the case then...... it has been a well-known issue for about 2 months now since we learned of the 10.2 hardwired limitation in these Epsons


I am a day one early adopter. At that time I still thought buying two 4k HDR devices would give me 4k HDR.
I do not know who is violating which standards. All I know is with the Xbox one S I only get UHD 4k HDR via wireless (thats why I switched from wired). I did not find a single player who would give me Netflix 4k HDR yett. No 4k HDR gaming either on both newest gaming consoles. Now I am reading boards like this to find options if and how there are possibilities to get what I expected to get. But thats always the early adopter risk.

Don't get me wrong I totally love the quality I get from the projector and I don't regret buying it by any means. Games and movies look fantastic. I just did not got what is advertised and what I expected to get.

NoTechi


----------



## hatlesschimp

NoTechi said:


> I am a day one early adopter. At that time I still thought buying two 4k HDR devices would give me 4k HDR.
> I do not know who is violating which standards. All I know is with the Xbox one S I only get UHD 4k HDR via wireless (thats why I switched from wired). I did not find a single player who would give me Netflix 4k HDR yett. No 4k HDR gaming either on both newest gaming consoles. Now I am reading boards like this to find options if and how there are possibilities to get what I expected to get. But thats always the early adopter risk.
> 
> Don't get me wrong I totally love the quality I get from the projector and I don't regret buying it by any means. Games and movies look fantastic. I just did not got what is advertised and what I expected to get.
> 
> NoTechi


Yeah I hear ya. I tried 1080p hdr on the ps4pro before then switched to 4k without hdr with the same game and the 1080p hdr was dark and could see pixels. I know could switch settings etc but its too much work. Imagine my wife trying to negotiate that as well as switching input sources and adjusting the image aspect ratio. Lol
Anyways the sdr 4k gave the 1080p hdr a smack down!
More pixels and finer detail will always beat slighty better colours etc. It would be nice to have what makes sense to have but its not the end of the world. And now epson has something to improve in the next model and has tge oroblem of working out what they can leave off lol.


----------



## MaximTre

I totally choose hdr gaming over sdr gaming, but I have a properly calibrated HDR image so I can appreciate the huge difference.
I'm happy the Pro is smart enough to adapt to a limited hdmi port.
Xbox One S isn't, I hope Microsoft will fix that.


----------



## NoTechi

MaximTre said:


> I totally choose hdr gaming over sdr gaming, but I have a properly calibrated HDR image so I can appreciate the huge difference.
> I'm happy the Pro is smart enough to adapt to a limited hdmi port.
> Xbox One S isn't, I hope Microsoft will fix that.


Are you upscaling the PS 4 pro 1080p HDR to 4k by the projector again or is that not possible?

NoTechi


----------



## DireWolf08

I just ordered the 5040ub, I am stoked! 

That is all.


----------



## enetprof

Hi Folks,

Not sure if this has already been communicated, but the price of the 5040UBe has dropped $200 today. Previously, only the 5040UB had dropped... so you are now back to the $300 difference from the 5040UB model... at least at ABT.com...


----------



## ndabunka

MaximTre said:


> It's an Xbox limitation, just as it was for the Samsung player before the patch.
> In details, the xbox is sending a 4:4:4 signal that exceeds the 300mhz bandwidth of the wired port (it works with tha 450mhz bandwidth of the wireless).
> It's the same exact thing the Samsung player was doing prior the patch.
> There's no need for that, so it can be patched, but Microsoft still hasn't.


When people CONTINUE to REPEATEDLY falsely state that it is an Epson problem, it is understandably irritating. Others then complain thinking it's an Epson problem and then others reading it "adopt" that same position and a lot of incorrect "knowledge"/stupity is projected/spewed out on these forums. It is our job as knowledgable resource to correct these errors to reduce the propogation of such mis-information. 

This particular author was making "general" statements without any reference to the XB1S (as I illustrated above). If he has stated that the XBS1 was in the mix, the conversation would have been different. Instead, he states in one post some 2 pages back (that neither myself nor a number of others reading saw) that he is trying to get an XBS1 to work. Then he goes on individual posts after individual post stating how the 5040/6040 has an issue with IT'S wired port which is... COMPLETELY FALSE yet I appear to be one of the few trying to reign in those false labels.

I do get it. There are a lot of new people out here who may be lazy in the way they post. They also are lazy in assigning blame (because they don't TRULY understand what is going on). IMHO, those of us who DO understand owe it to the rest of the forum to point out the flaws in the newbies "logic". Otherwise, what good are we to this forum if we don't stand up and call BS?


----------



## MaximTre

NoTechi said:


> Are you upscaling the PS 4 pro 1080p HDR to 4k by the projector again or is that not possible?
> 
> NoTechi


To upscale back you'd need an additional video processor, but it would be limited by epson's (limited) hdmi port.
I can achieve the same result with a Linker, I can get a 4k/60hz/hdr/8bit signal, but as 8bits = banding, I prefer the full 1080p/10bit one (it's not a real 4k projector after all).
If epson will ever patch the wireless unit, we could get a 10bit signal even at 4k resolution.


----------



## c.kingsley

MaximTre said:


> It's an Xbox limitation, just as it was for the Samsung player before the patch.
> In details, the xbox is sending a 4:4:4 signal that exceeds the 300mhz bandwidth of the wired port (it works with tha 450mhz bandwidth of the wireless).
> It's the same exact thing the Samsung player was doing prior the patch.
> There's no need for that, so it can be patched, but Microsoft still hasn't.


There is a thread already for this on the user voice forums for Microsoft. The best way to gain visibility to this issue is to comment in detail about adding 4k24 4:2:2 for the bluray app in this thread and then run an upvote campaign on it:

https://xbox.uservoice.com/forums/3...e-xbox-one-s-hdr-compatibility-issue-with-the

For max visibility I would cross post this in the XBox subforums.


----------



## NoTechi

ndabunka said:


> When people CONTINUE to REPEATEDLY falsely state that it is an Epson problem, it is understandably irritating. Others then complain thinking it's an Epson problem and then others reading it "adopt" that same position and a lot of incorrect "knowledge"/stupity is projected/spewed out on these forums. It is our job as knowledgable resource to correct these errors to reduce the propogation of such mis-information.
> 
> This particular author was making "general" statements without any reference to the XB1S (as I illustrated above). If he has stated that the XBS1 was in the mix, the conversation would have been different. Instead, he states in one post some 2 pages back (that neither myself nor a number of others reading saw) that he is trying to get an XBS1 to work. Then he goes on individual posts after individual post stating how the 5040/6040 has an issue with IT'S wired port which is... COMPLETELY FALSE yet I appear to be one of the few trying to reign in those false labels.
> 
> I do get it. There are a lot of new people out here who may be lazy in the way they post. They also are lazy in assigning blame (because they don't TRULY understand what is going on). IMHO, those of us who DO understand owe it to the rest of the forum to point out the flaws in the newbies "logic". Otherwise, what good are we to this forum if we don't stand up and call BS?


But it's not only the Xbox. Whos fault is it that e.g. that Netflix 4k HDR is not working with any player on the Epsons?

NoTechi


----------



## c.kingsley

NoTechi said:


> But it's not only the Xbox. Whos fault is it that e.g. that Netflix 4k HDR is not working with any player on the Epsons?


It is never going to work, either, so yours is a rhetorical question. The 10.2gbps limitation is known and nothing is going to fix it. Why are we arguing about this again?


----------



## am2model3

Hatless chimp! Great fotos glad you are enjoying it! I should receive my 5040 on monday and may have to call in sick tuesday from work!! Hehe. = ). Or perhaps the whole week! Lol. Will be fun to fire it up!!


----------



## ndabunka

NoTechi said:


> But it's not only the Xbox. Whos fault is it that e.g. that Netflix 4k HDR is not working with any player on the Epsons?
> 
> NoTechi


It's a function of the frame rates. If Netflix transmitted at the UHD defined parameters of 24fps/24Hz then EVERY player would be able to work correctly. The REAL question here is ... why is Netflix sending NORMAL BluRay UHD content in 60Hz in the first place?

Of course, answering that still does not resolve non-BR UHD content (such as Youtube, Gaming, etc) and those ARE still problems with this projector but that is VERY DIFFERENT from UHD BluRay content.

If you are going to FORCE a 60Hz signal, artificially in the case of BluRay movies, then you are going to have to reduce the bit rate to 8-bit 4:2:0 in order to view it on the Epsons and yes, it WILL work on the Epsons with those parameters.

One of the problems is that people read a spec and say "I want the MAX" out of the spec and if a product can't deliver it AT ALL TIMES then they "claim" that it is broken.

When was the last time you drove your car at it's MAXIMUM speed? Do you ever REALLY need that speed EVERY time you drive? Of course not! You also do not need 18Gbps content capabilities 12-bit @ 4:4:4 for UHD BluRay because... that is NOT it's specification!

Sure you CAN drive a $80K Corvette @ 155MPH and you can also push content into an Epson @ 12-bit 4:4:4 and 60 Hz but in both cases, you are going to eventually crash.

Perhaps you should start viewing the $3K Epson 5040/6040's as the $30K 6-cylinder Camero's that run "just fine" up to 120MPH and you can consider the 10.2Gbps rate of the Epson to be it's "6-cylinder" engine.

If you INSIST on a 18Gbps/155MPH speed rate you can always just go buy yourself the latest JVC ($$$s) that CAN accomodate such speeds but then you will have to complain about a new problem called LAG but that is another story entirely...

In tech there are often compromises. People would LOVE to get a 18Gbps chip in the less expensive Camero but as soon as Chevy does that it also... RAISES the price exponentially (See the RS version). Epson will likely do the same thing with a similar price point in the near future. In other words, you have to pay to play


----------



## Dave Harper

MaximTre said:


> There's should be no lag, it's a proprietary epson technology.
> 
> It's a direct connection, it won't support multiple devices, but it's as good as a cable.



Just the fact of having to modulate the HDMI data onto an RF radio signal will indeed cause some delay/lag. Until someone measures it compared to the wired connection though, we can only speculate. It could be so negligible as to be imperceptible though. 

When I was in TV broadcasting the modulation process always resulted in a delay, and of course the video portion was always harder to modulate than the audio, so we had to artificially delay the audio part to match up with the video in the end, so we didn't get things like lip sync errors. 

Of course this was analog TV, but the point is, ANY time you run a signal through any type of processor, be it analog or digital, there WILL be delay/lag induced. 



ndabunka said:


> When people CONTINUE to REPEATEDLY falsely state that it is an Epson problem, it is understandably irritating. Others then complain thinking it's an Epson problem and then others reading it "adopt" that same position and a lot of incorrect "knowledge"/stupity is projected/spewed out on these forums. It is our job as knowledgable resource to correct these errors to reduce the propogation of such mis-information.
> 
> 
> 
> This particular author was making "general" statements without any reference to the XB1S (as I illustrated above). If he has stated that the XBS1 was in the mix, the conversation would have been different. Instead, he states in one post some 2 pages back (that neither myself nor a number of others reading saw) that he is trying to get an XBS1 to work. Then he goes on individual posts after individual post stating how the 5040/6040 has an issue with IT'S wired port which is... COMPLETELY FALSE yet I appear to be one of the few trying to reign in those false labels.
> 
> 
> 
> I do get it. There are a lot of new people out here who may be lazy in the way they post. They also are lazy in assigning blame (because they don't TRULY understand what is going on). IMHO, those of us who DO understand owe it to the rest of the forum to point out the flaws in the newbies "logic". Otherwise, what good are we to this forum if we don't stand up and call BS?



While I agree with this and the follow on supporting posts, I do think Epson "screwed the pooch" by not including an 18Gbps HDMI chip and capability in this model line. I am sure the costs were negligible to do so and anyone here, myself included, would've been happy to drop an additional $100 or so on it so as to avoid this player compatibility BS that's going on. It's not like the Xbox One S is outputting some crazy spec'd resolution and frame rate really, when you're talking today's 4K UHD.


----------



## am2model3

For those 5040/6040 owners who upgraded from 1080p, does the 2160p just make things look amazing? I cant wai to fire mine up this week!!


----------



## k3nnis

Hi guys, I'm seriously thinking of the Epson wireless unit instead of the wired one. But how well does the wireless HDMI work? Any dropouts? Issues?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

am2model3 said:


> For those 5040/6040 owners who upgraded from 1080p, does the 2160p just make things look amazing? I cant wai to fire mine up this week!!


Have you had a PJ before? Well forget any issues people are saying about this projector. Its amazing! Too me its a better option then any TV. I love having a big image to view. Blu rays and uhd look great. Any pj above this price is starting to not become cost effective for return on image quality. Like to me the JVC X7000 is better but at nearly double the price here in Australia its not double the image quality. Then there is the WHOLE Sony PJ range that has image degradation issues - theres a forum here dedicated to it. No way I could fork out for one of them and run the gauntlet. They do look good but yeah like I say risky. Had 2 lads come by yesterday and picked up my old ps4 and they stayed and played BF1, Tomb Raider and watched suicide squad for a bit. Had it set to 2160p yuv 8bit and they couldnt care what I had it set to and nor did they know what hdr is and they loved it. They couldnt get by the detail and clarity in BF1. Im playing today with them online. Totally squading up. Nice lads.

So just saying this is a bloody awesome PJ! No one! No one will be disappointed!


----------



## aaranddeeman

My 6040 arrived today.
After the initial hiccup (in the order), finally it made it to the store and I picked it up.
Bought it from Bestbuy for a killer price I could not pass up.
Shout out to @dvdwilly3 for all his help and leading me to go for 6040 that I had never considered (and only thinking of 5040)..

Next days are gonna be busy...


----------



## Waikis

Just a heads up, Cine4Home is developing an LPE filter for TW9300. 
This is not just a normal LPE filter like the previous versions, apparently, as they are trying to make it DCI P3 compliant. 
This means that we can use bright cinema mode + DCI P3 without the reduced brightness level of Digital cinema. 

I'm currently using a standard FL Day filter and it already looks amazing.


----------



## dvdwilly3

am2model3 said:


> For those 5040/6040 owners who upgraded from 1080p, does the 2160p just make things look amazing? I cant wai to fire mine up this week!!


You're gonna love it...

OOB it looks great, but can benefit from tweaking.

See the link in my signature for some suggested settings.

Have fun!


----------



## aaranddeeman

A quick question about mounting 6040 using the included mount.
After you secure the mounting hardware to ceiling and the PJ, can one person attach the PJ to the mount or there is a need for 2 people.
The reason for this question is, I have some help available only until tomorrow.
If one person can attach it, I don't have to rush to complete it by tomorrow.
Appreciate your help.


----------



## EveryGlenn17

Is it worth it to get a HD fury linker or integral for use with ps4pro? Is there a better device? 

Which would be a better choice? Can either upscale better than the pj? Can I set it to 2k/HDR/60fps with one or either? 

I had been following this thread but have fallen way behind. Also, could someone link some calibration settings? People's sigs don't show up on my mobile browser and I really can't seem to navigate other forums either. 

Thanks for any assistance.


----------



## mercuryyy

So anybody have any idea what the NATIVE contrast of the 5040/6040 is? i found absolutely zero information only their claimed 1,000,000 dynamic contrast which is bul***it


----------



## dvdwilly3

EveryGlenn17 said:


> Is it worth it to get a HD fury linker or integral for use with ps4pro? Is there a better device?
> 
> Which would be a better choice? Can either upscale better than the pj? Can I set it to 2k/HDR/60fps with one or either?
> 
> I had been following this thread but have fallen way behind. Also, could someone link some calibration settings? People's sigs don't show up on my mobile browser and I really can't seem to navigate other forums either.
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.


Not calibration settings, but some useful starting places...click on the link in my signature...

Or copy the link and paste it into your browser...


----------



## EveryGlenn17

dvdwilly3 said:


> EveryGlenn17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it worth it to get a HD fury linker or integral for use with ps4pro? Is there a better device?
> 
> Which would be a better choice? Can either upscale better than the pj? Can I set it to 2k/HDR/60fps with one or either?
> 
> I had been following this thread but have fallen way behind. Also, could someone link some calibration settings? People's sigs don't show up on my mobile browser and I really can't seem to navigate other forums either.
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.
> 
> 
> 
> Not calibration settings, but some useful starting places...click on the link in my signature...
> 
> Or copy the link and paste it into your browser...
Click to expand...

Yes, that's what I'm looking for. I've done some basic calibration, but nothing too intensive yet. Unfortunately your signature doesn't show up for me. Could you paste a link for me? Thanks.


----------



## ndabunka

mercuryyy said:


> So anybody have any idea what the NATIVE contrast of the 5040/6040 is? i found absolutely zero information only their claimed 1,000,000 dynamic contrast which is bul***it


It is in this thread. You could probably use the SEARCH function putting in the term "Native" and find it in about 1/2 a second


----------



## DonRSD

I am tempted to upgrade my current 5030 to a 5040, basically for the Xbox One S.

Will 4k / HDR work?

If not, what is the solution?

#confused


----------



## ndabunka

DonRSD said:


> I am tempted to upgrade my current 5030 to a 5040, basically for the Xbox One S.
> 
> Will 4k / HDR work?
> 
> If not, what is the solution?
> 
> #confused


Just read the prior three or four pages of this thread as it has been almost exclusively about the XB1S & the 5040/6040s


----------



## Clark Burk

At this point I would say pairing the Xbox 1s and the Epson 5040 is not a good idea. Perhaps Microsoft can configure a way to make it work better but if that's a requirement then best look elsewhere.


----------



## am2model3

Thanks! I cant wait. Upgrading from my 1080p dlp projector so the epson should be eye opening!! Running at 135 inch 16:9 so lotsa fotos next week!


----------



## mwaarna

aaranddeeman said:


> My 6040 arrived today.
> After the initial hiccup (in the order), finally it made it to the store and I picked it up.
> Bought it from Bestbuy for a killer price I could not pass up.
> Shout out to @dvdwilly3 for all his help and leading me to go for 6040 that I had never considered (and only thinking of 5040)..
> 
> Next days are gonna be busy...


Would you mind sending the price you got for the 6040 from best buy through message?

I just ordered the epson 5040 and they would not budge on the price due to UMP.. but maybe the 6040 is not UMP..


----------



## mercuryyy

ndabunka said:


> It is in this thread. You could probably use the SEARCH function putting in the term "Native" and find it in about 1/2 a second


Please do try. it will take you 1/2x0 because there is no answer to that question in this thread. at least not one i was able to find using the SEARCH function.

If anybody has the answer please do spare xxx,xxx chars for me  or maybe its xx,xxx in native contrast 

Thank you!


----------



## hatlesschimp

am2model3 said:


> Thanks! I cant wait. Upgrading from my 1080p dlp projector so the epson should be eye opening!! Running at 135 inch 16:9 so lotsa fotos next week!


Dlp to 3lcd is a big jump! No colour wheel lol. No RBE! Less noise!


----------



## MaximTre

Dave Harper said:


> Just the fact of having to modulate the HDMI data onto an RF radio signal will indeed cause some delay/lag. Until someone measures it compared to the wired connection though, we can only speculate. It could be so negligible as to be imperceptible though.
> 
> When I was in TV broadcasting the modulation process always resulted in a delay, and of course the video portion was always harder to modulate than the audio, so we had to artificially delay the audio part to match up with the video in the end, so we didn't get things like lip sync errors.
> 
> Of course this was analog TV, but the point is, ANY time you run a signal through any type of processor, be it analog or digital, there WILL be delay/lag.


It should be really negligible.
"Essentially no lag"
https://www.cnet.com/news/wireless-hd-video-is-here-so-why-do-we-still-use-hdmi-cables/


----------



## MaximTre

Clark Burk said:


> At this point I would say pairing the Xbox 1s and the Epson 5040 is not a good idea. Perhaps Microsoft can configure a way to make it work better but if that's a requirement then best look elsewhere.


As of today, to make the Xbox fully display HDR (movies and games) you need a Linker.
To bad the Ps4 Pro is no UHD player


----------



## jbarteli

MaximTre said:


> As of today, to make the Xbox fully display HDR (movies and games) you need a Linker.
> To bad the Ps4 Pro is no UHD player


Here the linker still isn't working even when I connect the linker directly to the projector.


----------



## k3nnis

MaximTre said:


> As of today, to make the Xbox fully display HDR (movies and games) you need a Linker.
> 
> To bad the Ps4 Pro is no UHD player




Can the PS4 pro display HDR without linker on the wired Epson?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdwilly3

EveryGlenn17 said:


> Yes, that's what I'm looking for. I've done some basic calibration, but nothing too intensive yet. Unfortunately your signature doesn't show up for me. Could you paste a link for me? Thanks.


How about now?

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...d-msrp/2637665-5040-6040-memory-profiles.html


----------



## hatlesschimp

Just some camera phone images of the PS4 Pro playing a 1080p blu ray. Looks better than the xbox one s to me.


----------



## aaranddeeman

mercuryyy said:


> Please do try. it will take you 1/2x0 because there is no answer to that question in this thread. at least not one i was able to find using the SEARCH function.
> 
> If anybody has the answer please do spare xxx,xxx chars for me  or maybe its xx,xxx in native contrast
> 
> Thank you!


----------



## Stereojeff

aaranddeeman said:


> A quick question about mounting 6040 using the included mount.
> After you secure the mounting hardware to ceiling and the PJ, can one person attach the PJ to the mount or there is a need for 2 people.
> The reason for this question is, I have some help available only until tomorrow.
> If one person can attach it, I don't have to rush to complete it by tomorrow.
> Appreciate your help.


As a reasonably fit 70 year old, I had no problem mounting the projector by myself.

Jeff


----------



## dvdwilly3

aaranddeeman said:


> A quick question about mounting 6040 using the included mount.
> After you secure the mounting hardware to ceiling and the PJ, can one person attach the PJ to the mount or there is a need for 2 people.
> The reason for this question is, I have some help available only until tomorrow.
> If one person can attach it, I don't have to rush to complete it by tomorrow.
> Appreciate your help.


I did not hang mine, but I watched the guy who did.

Assuming that you have the same mount with a locking mount, you should have amount with 2 main pieces--a projector mounting plate and a ceiling mount.

The projector plate that is screwed onto the bottom of the projector with nine 4mm screws. The celining mount is attached to the ceiling with lag bolts or very large screws. At least one side of it should be into a joist...that is solid wood and not a drywall anchor. Keep in mind that is pretty heavy.

At any rate attach the plate to the projector and the mount to the ceiling. Then, the projector plate should slide into the rails and lock in place. And, it literally locks with a key.

About the only time that you will have to lift it over your head is this last step. Having said that, it helps to have someone hand it to you after you have gotten up on the ladder. I would want to fall off the ladder while holding the projector. 

For that matter, I would not really want to fall off the ladder, period. Hide and hair is hard to regrow.


----------



## YUPYSNB

aaranddeeman said:


> My 6040 arrived today.
> After the initial hiccup (in the order), finally it made it to the store and I picked it up.
> Bought it from Bestbuy for a killer price I could not pass up.
> Shout out to @dvdwilly3 for all his help and leading me to go for 6040 that I had never considered (and only thinking of 5040)..
> 
> Next days are gonna be busy...


If you can pass this along to me as well. It would be greatly appreciated. I am contemplating on the UBE with the hope of a firmware patch for the bandwidth issue. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ht guy

Just a few quick noobee questions.

I've just ordered the 5040.

It will be a huge upgrade as I'm coming from a 2007 Panny ae2000 with a Panamorph UH440 and motorized sled. I've also got a Carada 128" 235:1 My pre/pro is an Anthem AVM50V.

My understanding is that I will not need to upgrade my screen and my plan is to get the Oppo 4k player when it launches next month.

1) It looks like I will no longer need the Panamorph system - correct?

2) My projector is mounted 13.5' from the screen. Will I need to move my mount?

3) It sounds like I will need to get some sort of switcher for the new HDMI cables to hook up the various sources as the Anthem will not handle the signal. Correct?

and (assume this is a "yes")

4) Will I be able to also hook up non-4k sources to the switcher (i.e.: Tivo Mini?)

Thanks in advance!


----------



## BiggusDiccus

Add me to the growing list of owners. I've own two Panny PJs prior, PTAE6000 and PTAE7000 on a 120" screen. I upgraded from the 6000 to the 7000 because of the 3D functionality but was disappointed overall by the performance. We've been tolerating this PJ until a 4K option became affordable. Here's hoping this is it. I'm starting with just a Roku Ultra as my sole 4K source but am very tempted by the PS4 Pro for gaming. Looks like i'm going to have to bypass my Denon AVR 3312ci since the HDMI ports are only 1.4. I'm going to integrate a Blackbird HDMI switch as a way of bypassing this limitation. UGH


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

ht guy said:


> 1) It looks like I will no longer need the Panamorph system - correct?


Panamorph should utilize all pixels. I am not sure if 5040 has vertical stretch. If it does, I will keep panamorph




ht guy said:


> 2) My projector is mounted 13.5' from the screen. Will I need to move my mount?


Depends on your screen size. Check projectorcentral.com


----------



## aaranddeeman

dvdwilly3 said:


> I did not hang mine, but I watched the guy who did.
> 
> Assuming that you have the same mount with a locking mount, you should have amount with 2 main pieces--a projector mounting plate and a ceiling mount.
> 
> The projector plate that is screwed onto the bottom of the projector with nine 4mm screws. The celining mount is attached to the ceiling with lag bolts or very large screws. At least one side of it should be into a joist...that is solid wood and not a drywall anchor. Keep in mind that is pretty heavy.
> 
> At any rate attach the plate to the projector and the mount to the ceiling. Then, the projector plate should slide into the rails and lock in place. And, it literally locks with a key.
> 
> About the only time that you will have to lift it over your head is this last step. Having said that, it helps to have someone hand it to you after you have gotten up on the ladder. I would want to fall off the ladder while holding the projector.
> 
> For that matter, I would not really want to fall off the ladder, period. Hide and hair is hard to regrow.


Thanks. I will keep that in mind.
Yeah, I tried to regrow my hair, but oh well..


----------



## aaranddeeman

Stereojeff said:


> As a reasonably fit 70 year old, I had no problem mounting the projector by myself.
> 
> Jeff


Thanks. That's encouraging..
I don't know though, if I will be able to say the same about myself when I will be 70..


----------



## gnolivos

PS4 Pro for $60 off at target today. And BF1 PS4 for $27 at Walmart.


----------



## dotorg

ndabunka said:


> Originally Posted by D'ultimate...
> From my understanding reading the thread the XB1 S can do Bluray and UHD Bluray with HDR. Just not games.
> 
> 
> 
> Let's be clear here. For 24/30Hz signals the 5040/6040 units OBVIOUSLY DO get 4K HDR from numerous bluray sources (Phillips, Panasonic, Patched Samsung, etc) when delivering the UHD specification of 24fps so if the XB1S can't do it via the wired interface then that problem remains within XB1S.


Why do you chime in when people post in this thread? Everyone who has even casually browsed the owners thead knows you're literally the worlds biggest fan of the Epson projectors, but either being triggered by someone saying something negative about your beloved projector, or deliberately posting straw man responses is a waste of space in the forum, and helps perpetuate bad information. 

The person you replied to was talking about the XBox 1 S. Not a single other device, so your reply is absolutely irrelevant. The *fact* is, the person you replied to is correct -- the XB1S can *not* do HDR without HDFury trickery (which makes it work by downgrading the signal outside the Xbox -- so what's the point, then) over the wired HDMI ports. That's an incontrovertible fact, and if someone is asking about the XB1S, then absolutely nothing else you can reply matters -- in the slightest. 

And everyone who has read this thread knows that you believe its every single device's fault *except* the projector's, that it has the single lowest combination of compatible signal settings of any 2016-vintage display device. We know. You've replied many dozens of times saying so, in this thread and the announcement thread. We're in reruns now. Time to change the channel. We know your belief is that its the fault of every single device out there except the projector and that a customer shouldn't reasonably expect -- even given 99.99% of other devices are -- that the "HDR" and "4K' in the $3000+ Epson projector would work with all of their devices. Its clearly the manufacturer of every other TV's fault that they were overachievers and made theirs work with everything. 

Give. Me. A. Break. 

The *fact* is, Epson is advertising a capability that, broadly speaking, doesn't work with the majority of sources that actually exist in the real world. *Some* sources have tweaked their process of negotiating a signal that happens to (deliberately or otherwise) make them work with the Epson, but anyone considering buying one, or anyone who has bought one and has problems needs to understand the real world and not the happy-happy-joy-joy fanboy world... and that is that those devices will almost certainly never be "patched" to work. And pretending its the fault of the source that Epson doesn't meet the minimums that every other display meets is just silly. 

Is there an issue with the XB1? Arguably, no. Its no more rigid in its output requirements than virtually any other 4K source out there... and source rigidity is generally not a problem because every other display handles more than a narrow sliver of the possible inputs. In fact, its more flexible than quite a few. So its disingenuous at best, dishonest at worst to pretend its the fault of those devices. 

Now, the XB1 *could* be patched to change the 24P/4k output from 4:4:4 to 4:2:2, and HDR would start working for wired UHD disks, but its almost definitely *not* going to happen because the format its using is better, and works on essentially every other device out there. And the fact that it can't do HDR gaming at 4K is Epson's problem, not theirs. It works on almost every other device. 

And, while Epson likely can't do anything about it for current owners (except maybe loosen up the restrictions on the wireless interface), and the people who have bought their quasi-compatible devices now can't vote with their wallets anymore, its important that Epson knows they screwed the pooch on this one, and gets the message loud and clear they need to do better in the future. Pretending every other manufacturer is the one that screwed up does not serve Epson, their customers, their future customers or a single person reading this thread who hasn't bought one yet any good.


----------



## audvid

Comparing Apples and Oranges: Epson 5040ub Vs Sony Vw675ES Vs Sony Qualia 004 (2008)
I realize that these two are two different price points. 
I also realize the Sony 675 would be superior. 
I am posting this question anyway, requesting comments from those who have compared the two. What is your subjective opinion, considering the costs difference.. One at $2700 (even $2100 on ebay) and the other at, probably a street price of $10,000 to $12,000.
I am considering the Epson for the real glass Japanese lens it is supposed to have (who makes it?). I won't like any projector with plastic lens elements.

My reasoning for considering the Epson:
If I were to buy the Epson, I would probably use it for 2 or 3 years and discard it. There is not much of "real 4k" right now anyway and 99% of my viewing is Dish network, at 1080p. 

The 4k is still evolving.. By the time, true 4k contents becomes mainstream, I can buy a high end true 4k projector at that time. 
Currently, I am using a Sony qualia 004, with a 150" wide Stewart 1.3 perforated screen. I am very very happy with the picture - especially its Carl zeiss lens.. but its bulbs are expensive and might become scarce. They are $900 for about 1000 hours in high mode. 

The Epson has a higher lumen output than my current Qualia and the new Sony 675 (assuming the numbers are to be believed). 

I have an older Epsom 8350 in a 2nd room on a 65" wide screen and the picture Ok for that purpose.. The picture is a bit soft and not as sharp as the Qualia. But then the epson 8350 is a very inexpensive projector. 

The bottom line question is.. My sony qualia 004 is 10 years old.. But it still has an amazingly sharp high quality picture. The new Epson 5040 is current technology; therefore, would it be as good or better than at least the Sony Qualia? I do expect the Sony 675 to be better but the 2nd question is.. is it really far superior to the Epson 5040, to justify the 4 to 5 times the price?

I am suspecting that the law of diminishing returns applies here and would appreciate comments from someone who has seen the Sony projectors and the Epson 5040.

Thank you.


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> While I agree with this and the follow on supporting posts, I do think Epson "screwed the pooch" by not including an 18Gbps HDMI chip and capability in this model line. I am sure the costs were negligible to do so and anyone here, myself included, would've been happy to drop an additional $100 or so on it so as to avoid this player compatibility BS that's going on. It's not like the Xbox One S is outputting some crazy spec'd resolution and frame rate really, when you're talking today's 4K UHD.


I agree, it would have saved several hassles and I would also have happily paid as much as the UBE for full compatibility. If the RS400 was capable of gaming, I would have went that route. For now the problem is limited due to very little content available beyond UHD. Right now this is mostly a limitation on paper. I imagine in the next 18 months as 4k HDR content begins to proliferate more, it will start to become a larger issue in practice. If I were Epson, I would quietly slip 18gbps HDMI into a 5040 rev 2.0 for the next model year but I honestly have no idea how likely that scenario is. If there is a change, I'll re-evaluate when new information is available.


----------



## knucklehd

*My impressions coming from an Acer 9500BD*

Hi All,
I'm a new Epson 5040ub owner and would like to tell a few impressions after owning for about 2 weeks since i upgraded from an Acer H9500BD 3D 1080P. ($14,999 at purchase)
This projector is better in every way i can think of, I feel very satisfied spending twice the price. It is awesome to look at, just using youtube streaming 4K UHD videos. 
I have an Onkyo TX-NR636 (only has one hdmi HDCP 2.2 port) and a PS4 PRO. I have an XBOX ONE S on the way that I'll use for my UHD player so I may need to upgrade receiver or use some linker to switch from gaming to the Xbox player for movies. 

I am 80% gamer, but this has made me want to get back into watching more movies with the family.
I have a dedicated Theater completely light controlled, and I view at 128 inches using a painted wall, i think i used Cream & Sugar ultra. (it's been awhile). 

I experience no noticeable lag on any game, no matter what setting i use on the projector (ex. using fast or fine, High speed Iris, Tomb Raider 4k, COD modern/infinite, BF1, Titanfall2 Destiny, Dishonored, etc.) They all look amazing

I use Natural setting, and typically settle for image enhancement 4 on ECO mode.
The projector is very quite, it sits on my 8ft ceiling, it is more quiet than the Acer was. It also produces less heat. The turn on time is a little faster, but the resolution switch time and menus are much faster. Yes the blacks are a good bit better too!
The only thing i didn't like about it is the size, it is huge, I did mount it by myself, but i about died and my bicep was cramping holding the durn thing up. 2 people would make it so much easier. 

I have had a couple or times it show me an error on boot up that says it can't move the iris to call epson service, but I know the iris is working.
I believe this happens only when you are booting and your source is in the middle of turning on or switching. 
One time the projector locked up while i was in the gamma adjust menu, this is a menu that pauses whatever is on your screen. The projector turned the fan on high and the Lamp light was on and the blue light was flashing for about a minute. It hasn't happened anymore and i have been in that menu a few more times.
I calibrated everything using the AVS disc

I really recommend this projector, I continually watch Gopro 4k videos etc, it just looks amazing. 
Thanks for listening, i am truly excited and can't wait to get some real 4K source to be even more impressed.


----------



## audvid

knucklehd said:


> Hi All,
> I'm a new Epson 5040ub owner and would like to tell a few impressions after owning for about 2 weeks since i upgraded from an Acer H9500BD 3D 1080P. ($14,999 at purchase)


$14,999 or $1,499? The reason I ask is.. I really would be interested in the comparitive opinion of a person who moved from a $15k projector down to this $3k projector..


----------



## knucklehd

audvid said:


> $14,999 or $1,499? The reason I ask is.. I really would be interested in the comparitive opinion of a person who moved from a $15k projector down to this $3k projector..


Oh my bad $1,499! So the Epson is ~twice the price of what I initially had purchased, but very worth it. 
I will never have a $15K projector


----------



## Ronman79

knucklehd said:


> Hi All,
> I'm a new Epson 5040ub owner and would like to tell a few impressions after owning for about 2 weeks since i upgraded from an Acer H9500BD 3D 1080P. ($14,999 at purchase)
> This projector is better in every way i can think of, I feel very satisfied spending twice the price. It is awesome to look at, just using youtube streaming 4K UHD videos.
> I have an Onkyo TX-NR636 (only has one hdmi HDCP 2.2 port) and a PS4 PRO. I have an XBOX ONE S on the way that I'll use for my UHD player so I may need to upgrade receiver or use some linker to switch from gaming to the Xbox player for movies.
> 
> I am 80% gamer, but this has made me want to get back into watching more movies with the family.
> I have a dedicated Theater completely light controlled, and I view at 128 inches using a painted wall, i think i used Cream & Sugar ultra. (it's been awhile).
> 
> I experience no noticeable lag on any game, no matter what setting i use on the projector (ex. using fast or fine, High speed Iris, Tomb Raider 4k, COD modern/infinite, BF1, Titanfall2 Destiny, Dishonored, etc.) They all look amazing
> 
> I use Natural setting, and typically settle for image enhancement 4 on ECO mode.
> The projector is very quite, it sits on my 8ft ceiling, it is more quiet than the Acer was. It also produces less heat. The turn on time is a little faster, but the resolution switch time and menus are much faster. Yes the blacks are a good bit better too!
> The only thing i didn't like about it is the size, it is huge, I did mount it by myself, but i about died and my bicep was cramping holding the durn thing up. 2 people would make it so much easier.
> 
> I have had a couple or times it show me an error on boot up that says it can't move the iris to call epson service, but I know the iris is working.
> I believe this happens only when you are booting and your source is in the middle of turning on or switching.
> One time the projector locked up while i was in the gamma adjust menu, this is a menu that pauses whatever is on your screen. The projector turned the fan on high and the Lamp light was on and the blue light was flashing for about a minute. It hasn't happened anymore and i have been in that menu a few more times.
> I calibrated everything using the AVS disc
> 
> I really recommend this projector, I continually watch Gopro 4k videos etc, it just looks amazing.
> Thanks for listening, i am truly excited and can't wait to get some real 4K source to be even more impressed.


Congrats! 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

mercuryyy said:


> Please do try. it will take you 1/2x0 because there is no answer to that question in this thread. at least not one i was able to find using the SEARCH function.
> 
> If anybody has the answer please do spare xxx,xxx chars for me  or maybe its xx,xxx in native contrast
> 
> Thank you!


The JVC fans appear to be the ones that bring it up the most so try searching on terms like 4910 and there are 2 5040/6040 threads to make certain you search the other one as well. This has been discussed many times in the past so it is out there. Good luck!


----------



## NoTechi

ndabunka said:


> It's a function of the frame rates. If Netflix transmitted at the UHD defined parameters of 24fps/24Hz then EVERY player would be able to work correctly. The REAL question here is ... why is Netflix sending NORMAL BluRay UHD content in 60Hz in the first place?
> 
> Of course, answering that still does not resolve non-BR UHD content (such as Youtube, Gaming, etc) and those ARE still problems with this projector but that is VERY DIFFERENT from UHD BluRay content.
> 
> If you are going to FORCE a 60Hz signal, artificially in the case of BluRay movies, then you are going to have to reduce the bit rate to 8-bit 4:2:0 in order to view it on the Epsons and yes, it WILL work on the Epsons with those parameters.
> 
> One of the problems is that people read a spec and say "I want the MAX" out of the spec and if a product can't deliver it AT ALL TIMES then they "claim" that it is broken.
> 
> When was the last time you drove your car at it's MAXIMUM speed? Do you ever REALLY need that speed EVERY time you drive? Of course not! You also do not need 18Gbps content capabilities 12-bit @ 4:4:4 for UHD BluRay because... that is NOT it's specification!
> 
> Sure you CAN drive a $80K Corvette @ 155MPH and you can also push content into an Epson @ 12-bit 4:4:4 and 60 Hz but in both cases, you are going to eventually crash.
> 
> Perhaps you should start viewing the $3K Epson 5040/6040's as the $30K 6-cylinder Camero's that run "just fine" up to 120MPH and you can consider the 10.2Gbps rate of the Epson to be it's "6-cylinder" engine.
> 
> If you INSIST on a 18Gbps/155MPH speed rate you can always just go buy yourself the latest JVC ($$$s) that CAN accomodate such speeds but then you will have to complain about a new problem called LAG but that is another story entirely...
> 
> In tech there are often compromises. People would LOVE to get a 18Gbps chip in the less expensive Camero but as soon as Chevy does that it also... RAISES the price exponentially (See the RS version). Epson will likely do the same thing with a similar price point in the near future. In other words, you have to pay to play


I am driving at maximum speed around 140MPH like every week ... crazy Germans without speedlimit on highways you know  If my car would not go at least the max speed it was advertised with I would give it back.

Since you are comparing it with the automotive world I would compare the Epson situation more like this: You are going to buy a car which is advertising that you will be able to have perfect music and mobile phone calls over the car build in bluetoooth. Once you purchased the car you find out it will just connect to windows phones. Android and IPhones have problems due to a different Bluetooth stack implementation and are not working or just limited. The car would be still great and most likely I would not give it back but I would say it's the car manufacturers fault not being compatible instead of the smart phone manufactures. And I would blame the car manufacturer/seller that he did not told me this limitation.

Same for those Epson projectors. Epson could list the known limitations within their product specification already. But they prefer to have the customer find out the limitations by their own after purchasing. I understand why they do it since they would sell way less but it's not customer friendly at all.

And again I would buy the projector as it is now again no question since I really like the picture quality/cost ratio even with the limitations.

NoTechi


----------



## Halichopter

jayselle said:


> The Philips BDP7501 properly passes the wider color and HDR. I'm returning the Samsung 8500.
> 
> What I'm unclear on is the different projector settings for SDR, HDR1, HDR2, HDR3, HDR4. The higher the number the darker the picture. The 5040 selects HDR2 if set to Auto.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Jayselle, I just got my Samsung 8500 and downloaded the firmware update yesterday. It now does BT.2020


----------



## Halichopter

*Ethernet Port?*

Anybody know what the Ethernet port on the 5040 is good for?


----------



## PioManiac

mercuryyy said:


> So anybody have any idea what the NATIVE contrast of the 5040/6040 is? i found absolutely zero information only their claimed 1,000,000 dynamic contrast which is bul***it


I recall the post from zombie10k and the day it happened very well,
it was the final straw that pulled me to The "Dark Side" 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2491081-epson-5040ub-2999-e-shift-4k-hdr10-wcg-powered-lens-position-memory-34.html#post46163217



zombie10k said:


> with the iris clamped on the 5040, low lamp, the contrast is ~7K:1. On the RS400 clamped down, it's ~30K:1. this is definitely a difference that can be seen in a light controlled room. RS500 is triple that amount if you can stretch the budget. native contrast is addicting, be careful if exposed to it.


and this was the closer:



zombie10k said:


> I've seen your HT room build from years ago, it's definitely dark enough to see a noticeable different in low-mid APL scenes on the JVC's vs the 6-7K native on the Epsons. If killer looking BD movies, dark sci-fi, etc is a goal, spring for the RS500, guarantee you will come back and thank us. I've sent my 25K 4K Sony VW1100 packing since it didn't come close to the native on the 500/600, I find it that important to getting fully engaged in the movies I watch.
> 
> I am excited though for the 5040 at this price point, it seems like a great update to the 5030. Much brighter, better lens, etc. I was just hoping they would crack 10-15k on the native.





Mike Garrett said:


> Since you have a gaming projector, seems no brainer on going with the 500.


----------



## jbarteli

Just a heads up for poeple who think the linker will help you get 4k hdr with games and movie on the xbox one S, it won't!! Just on the UBE....not the UB!
My Linker is going back!


----------



## EveryGlenn17

dvdwilly3 said:


> EveryGlenn17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's what I'm looking for. I've done some basic calibration, but nothing too intensive yet. Unfortunately your signature doesn't show up for me. Could you paste a link for me? Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> How about now?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...d-msrp/2637665-5040-6040-memory-profiles.html
Click to expand...

Perfect. Thank you!


----------



## gnolivos

knucklehd said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I'm a new Epson 5040ub owner and would like to tell a few impressions after owning for about 2 weeks since i upgraded from an Acer H9500BD 3D 1080P. ($14,999 at purchase)
> 
> This projector is better in every way i can think of, I feel very satisfied spending twice the price. It is awesome to look at, just using youtube streaming 4K UHD videos.
> 
> I have an Onkyo TX-NR636 (only has one hdmi HDCP 2.2 port) and a PS4 PRO. I have an XBOX ONE S on the way that I'll use for my UHD player so I may need to upgrade receiver or use some linker to switch from gaming to the Xbox player for movies.
> 
> 
> 
> I am 80% gamer, but this has made me want to get back into watching more movies with the family.
> 
> I have a dedicated Theater completely light controlled, and I view at 128 inches using a painted wall, i think i used Cream & Sugar ultra. (it's been awhile).
> 
> 
> 
> I experience no noticeable lag on any game, no matter what setting i use on the projector (ex. using fast or fine, High speed Iris, Tomb Raider 4k, COD modern/infinite, BF1, Titanfall2 Destiny, Dishonored, etc.) They all look amazing
> 
> 
> 
> I use Natural setting, and typically settle for image enhancement 4 on ECO mode.
> 
> The projector is very quite, it sits on my 8ft ceiling, it is more quiet than the Acer was. It also produces less heat. The turn on time is a little faster, but the resolution switch time and menus are much faster. Yes the blacks are a good bit better too!
> 
> The only thing i didn't like about it is the size, it is huge, I did mount it by myself, but i about died and my bicep was cramping holding the durn thing up. 2 people would make it so much easier.
> 
> 
> 
> I have had a couple or times it show me an error on boot up that says it can't move the iris to call epson service, but I know the iris is working.
> 
> I believe this happens only when you are booting and your source is in the middle of turning on or switching.
> 
> One time the projector locked up while i was in the gamma adjust menu, this is a menu that pauses whatever is on your screen. The projector turned the fan on high and the Lamp light was on and the blue light was flashing for about a minute. It hasn't happened anymore and i have been in that menu a few more times.
> 
> I calibrated everything using the AVS disc
> 
> 
> 
> I really recommend this projector, I continually watch Gopro 4k videos etc, it just looks amazing.
> 
> Thanks for listening, i am truly excited and can't wait to get some real 4K source to be even more impressed.




Your issue with the freeze is known, and I can confirm that Epson has found a fix and is rolling it out in an upcoming firmware update.


----------



## am2model3

I think the 4k review of 5040ub said contrast around 30,000... dynamic claims 1,000,000. I take delivery of 5040 tomorrow but probably wont fire up until tuesday! No work for me! Haha


----------



## dholmes54

Sorry if IVs asked this before but what kind of mount comes with the 5040-6040,is it the Chief 4500? Thxs


----------



## SALadder22FF

How does the 4k review of the projector praise the HDR for being amazing and more important than 4k, but it seems like the majority of people on here don't like it and think it makes it way too dark.


----------



## dvdwilly3

SALadder22FF said:


> How does the 4k review of the projector praise the HDR for being amazing and more important than 4k, but it seems like the majority of people on here don't like it and think it makes it way too dark.


Take a look at the SDR/HDR pictures in this Sony article...and see what you think.

I, and many others, the SDR pics over the HDR pics. To each, his/her own...

You can try the suggested settings by following the link in my signature.
There, you will find suggested settings and resulting screen shots...


----------



## mercuryyy

@PioManiac much appreciated. seems like the 5040 is light years behind rs500/600 in real native contrast numbers


----------



## ndabunka

NoTechi said:


> You are going to buy a car which is advertising that you will be able to have perfect music and mobile phone calls over the car build in bluetoooth. Once you purchased the car you find out it will just connect to windows phones. Android and IPhones have problems due to a different Bluetooth stack implementation and are not working or just limited.


Intersting argument for one called NoTechi - If the bluetooth stack was an older version then Yes, it WOULD be the fault of the cellular so that is a poor analogy here because once they updated their outdated cell, it WOULD then work. Microsoft coudl do as others have an allow their XB1S to function at a more basic level so they COULD make that change ...if they wanted.

The REAL issue here is the UHD specification. It handles 24Hz signals as it was designed. 

The Epson does not handle the 60Hz signals as many on here including gamers are seeking. It is a KNOWN issue. Buyers can make their decision and move on. I am tired of people saying "it doesn't handle UHD & HDR" because that is FALSE/WRONG/INACCURATE. It handles UHD/HDR in 24/30Hz modes as DESIGNED...PERIOD.

If people want to post that it doesn't handle UHD/HDR in 60Hz mode with the 10 or 12-bit signals... go right ahead, you won't find any arguement from me as that is an accurate statement.


----------



## pnw

Question for those who have experience with both the 5030 and 5040. Did you notice real-world differences in black levels and contrast?

Thanks for your comments!


----------



## Smarty-pants

brianlvi3 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I am in process of upgrading my HT room. Right now I have the Marantz AV7702, Oppo 103 and Epson 5020UB. I already have purchased (not hooked up yet) the Marantz AV7702mkii. I will be purchasing the new Oppo 4K player when available hopefully soon and a new PJ. I loved the 5020 and have been watching the 5040UB. My question is this;
> 
> Since the Epson is not a true 4K PJ, is it gong to be making a huge difference in picture quality. I would think it would but wanted to ask since it is not a true 4K PJ. In other words am i kind of wasting it on the PJ and the processor? Would just upgrading the to the Oppo allow it to just upscale everything anyway without having to pass a true 4K signal?
> 
> Or maybe wait for a 4K PJ to come down in price. Just wondering opinions. Thanks as always.


My advice would be, if you are not pressed or anxious to upgrade your display right now, you may be better off waiting.
If you are planning to buy the Oppo UHD player, then I would wait until you have that, then check and see how good it works
with your current display, then decide if you want to upgrade your display.
By that time, prices may be lower or even new projectors hitting the market that might be something you like better.
The emphasis here is on the Oppo player and how well it works with legacy displays.
Remember there aren't very many UHD Blu-ray releases out there, not compared to the number of movies available in
standard Blu-ray, so you have a lot of time before you need to put a large emphasis on 4K.
This doesn't include the gaming genre though, but I'm not a big gamer, so don't have any advice in that realm.


----------



## am2model3

Just connected my game pc to my lg uhd 4k 2160p set i got from black friday 50inch @4:2:0 8bit 2160p/60 and wow!! Cant wait to run this on the epson tomorrow!! Incredible detail!!


----------



## NoTechi

ndabunka said:


> Intersting argument for one called NoTechi - If the bluetooth stack was an older version then Yes, it WOULD be the fault of the cellular so that is a poor analogy here because once they updated their outdated cell, it WOULD then work. Microsoft coudl do as others have an allow their XB1S to function at a more basic level so they COULD make that change ...if they wanted.
> 
> The REAL issue here is the UHD specification. It handles 24Hz signals as it was designed.
> 
> The Epson does not handle the 60Hz signals as many on here including gamers are seeking. It is a KNOWN issue. Buyers can make their decision and move on. I am tired of people saying "it doesn't handle UHD & HDR" because that is FALSE/WRONG/INACCURATE. It handles UHD/HDR in 24/30Hz modes as DESIGNED...PERIOD.
> 
> If people want to post that it doesn't handle UHD/HDR in 60Hz mode with the 10 or 12-bit signals... go right ahead, you won't find any arguement from me as that is an accurate statement.


As a customer I would expect to get informed about known limitations by Epson and resellers and not just that the UHD/HDR in 24/30Hz is handled perfectly.
Saying those limitations are well known might be true for everyone who reads 100pages threads like this one but a "notechi" would trust the 4k HDR advertising from Epson.

NoTechi


----------



## Smarty-pants

ht guy said:


> Just a few quick noobee questions.
> 
> I've just ordered the 5040.
> 
> It will be a huge upgrade as I'm coming from a 2007 Panny ae2000 with a Panamorph UH440 and motorized sled. I've also got a Carada 128" 235:1 My pre/pro is an Anthem AVM50V.
> 
> My understanding is that I will not need to upgrade my screen and my plan is to get the Oppo 4k player when it launches next month.
> 
> 1) It looks like I will no longer need the Panamorph system - correct?
> 
> 2) My projector is mounted 13.5' from the screen. Will I need to move my mount?
> 
> 3) It sounds like I will need to get some sort of switcher for the new HDMI cables to hook up the various sources as the Anthem will not handle the signal. Correct?
> 
> and (assume this is a "yes")
> 
> 4) Will I be able to also hook up non-4k sources to the switcher (i.e.: Tivo Mini?)
> 
> Thanks in advance!


The Epson projectors (and none on the market at all that I am aware of) are not native 21:9 displays.
That would be the only way for you to have the option of removing your anamorphic lens.
Without the lens, you would need to zoom out the pic so it fills your screen, and the black bars would still show
several inches above and below your screen. You would of course have much better pixel brightness and perceived
resolution with keeping the lens in place. Since you already have such a nice setup with the lens, I would highly recommend keeping it.

Based on the projection calculator at projectorcentral.com, you should be fine with that throw distance.
However you will be in the closest to the screen range with just a couple of inches to spare.
You say your pj is mounted 13.5' from the screen, but it's hard to say if that will be the same distance from screen
to lens with the 5040, which will be much bigger than your old pj.
I got lucky with mine, and when I put the 5040 where my old pj was, I could still fill the screen with 1" to spare... PERFECT! lol
Hopefully yours will work out too.

If your Anthem is not compatible with HDCP 2.2, then you won't be able to pass 4K/HDR/BT2020 through it.
However this is tricky without knowing all your sources. Will you have more than 1 4K source?
If only 1 source for 4K, AND if you have 2 HDMI cables going to the pj from your equipment rack,
you could send video from the Oppo directly to the pj on HDMI-1 input,
then have your other devices go through the Anthem and then on to the HDMI-2 input of the pj.
Then of course the HDMI-2 output from the Oppo (audio only), would also run to the Anthem.
However if you have more than 1 source for 4K, then you may need some kind of switching and that can get very complicated.
If you use a lot of sources with your avr/processor, again this can get very complicated and you may want to consider selling
the Anthem and acquiring something that is HDCP 2.2 compatible.

I would imagine it's safe to assume that a switch that passes 4k/HDR/HDCP 2.2/BT2020 will likely be backward compatible with legacy formats too.


----------



## blackbelt

Ok I just ordered the epson5040 ub. I should have it this week cant wait to post some results.


----------



## Smarty-pants

ht guy said:


> ...or asked another way, can anyone tell me if the 5040ub can do the horizontal+vertical stretch needed to do 235:1?
> 
> If not, can it do the vertical stretch needed with the Panamorph?
> 
> Thanks!


I have only had mine for a couple days now and don' know for sure on other sources,
but when I send it UHD material from a UHD player, the zoom function is greyed out, so I know it doesn't work
with that source. Heck I don't even know if it has a stretch feature at all for anamorphic lenses.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Has everyone else who has bought the 5040 also not received a manual in the box with the projector??
That is some serious BS and I always use the manual with most of my devices, especially projectors.
There is a big learning curve to know what all the features/settings do in the 5040, and now apparently
I have to look up the manual online to see what the settings even do, and if I want to read it while adjusting the pj,
then I have to print out a sh!t-ton of pages. Not cool. :/


----------



## sddp

mwaarna said:


> Would you mind sending the price you got for the 6040 from best buy through message?
> 
> I just ordered the epson 5040 and they would not budge on the price due to UMP.. but maybe the 6040 is not UMP..




Not true. I initially tested it out with an appointment at Magnolia inside a best buy and when we came to talk about price matching (with B&H) he wouldn't do an EXACT match since he had to charge tax. 
So.... like always... I was patient and did some research and went to ANOTHER Magnolia and they guy (that I knew from a year ago) DID match with a site that had it at 2999. And got it for that price OTD.


Fast forward to last Sunday (when Black Fri sales kicked in) they online he matched dropped their price again to 2849 and called him up and he matched it again!


Needless to say, I went in that last sunday and instead of having him put the difference back on my CC, he gave me credit and ended up buying a LOT more equipment.


It's really who you know and have a relationship with.


----------



## ht guy

Smarty-pants said:


> The Epson projectors (and none on the market at all that I am aware of) are not native 21:9 displays.
> That would be the only way for you to have the option of removing your anamorphic lens.
> Without the lens, you would need to zoom out the pic so it fills your screen, and the black bars would still show
> several inches above and below your screen. You would of course have much better pixel brightness and perceived
> resolution with keeping the lens in place. Since you already have such a nice setup with the lens, I would highly recommend keeping it.
> 
> Based on the projection calculator at projectorcentral.com, you should be fine with that throw distance.
> However you will be in the closest to the screen range with just a couple of inches to spare.
> You say your pj is mounted 13.5' from the screen, but it's hard to say if that will be the same distance from screen
> to lens with the 5040, which will be much bigger than your old pj.
> I got lucky with mine, and when I put the 5040 where my old pj was, I could still fill the screen with 1" to spare... PERFECT! lol
> Hopefully yours will work out too.
> 
> If your Anthem is not compatible with HDCP 2.2, then you won't be able to pass 4K/HDR/BT2020 through it.
> However this is tricky without knowing all your sources. Will you have more than 1 4K source?
> If only 1 source for 4K, AND if you have 2 HDMI cables going to the pj from your equipment rack,
> you could send video from the Oppo directly to the pj on HDMI-1 input,
> then have your other devices go through the Anthem and then on to the HDMI-2 input of the pj.
> Then of course the HDMI-2 output from the Oppo (audio only), would also run to the Anthem.
> However if you have more than 1 source for 4K, then you may need some kind of switching and that can get very complicated.
> If you use a lot of sources with your avr/processor, again this can get very complicated and you may want to consider selling
> the Anthem and acquiring something that is HDCP 2.2 compatible.
> 
> I would imagine it's safe to assume that a switch that passes 4k/HDR/HDCP 2.2/BT2020 will likely be backward compatible with legacy formats too.


Excellent. Thank-you so much.

Good news about still needing the Panamorph. Even though I'd love a quick, one touch switch between 16:9 and 21:9, for what I've got in that lens, I'm not sorry to get more out of it.

Also good new about the projector distance. The 2000ae is pretty big, but I'll just have to mount it and see.

Based on what I've read, it sounds like the Anthem AVM50v isn't 2.2 compatible.

Great point about running 2 HDMI cables. 

Likely the Oppo will be the only 4k source. I've read in the thread about folks looking at some 4k Netflix and Amazon streaming - assume that will be able to be done via the Oppo?

If so, the only other video source will be for the rare instance of wanting TV in the theater. That is via a Tivo mini that could run through the Anthem and to the 2nd HDMI input on the PJ, with the Oppo going to the 1st.

Thanks again, it sounds like I should be set.


----------



## Smarty-pants

ht guy said:


> Excellent. Thank-you so much.
> 
> Good news about still needing the Panamorph. Even though I'd love a quick, one touch switch between 16:9 and 21:9, for what I've got in that lens, I'm not sorry to get more out of it.
> 
> Also good new about the projector distance. The 2000ae is pretty big, but I'll just have to mount it and see.
> 
> Based on what I've read, it sounds like the Anthem AVM50v isn't 2.2 compatible.
> 
> Great point about running 2 HDMI cables.
> 
> Likely the Oppo will be the only 4k source. I've read in the thread about folks looking at some 4k Netflix and Amazon streaming - assume that will be able to be done via the Oppo?
> 
> If so, the only other video source will be for the rare instance of wanting TV in the theater. That is via a Tivo mini that could run through the Anthem and to the 2nd HDMI input on the PJ, with the Oppo going to the 1st.
> 
> Thanks again, it sounds like I should be set.


Oppo has stated that they are working hard to get the UDP-203 out as soon as possible to meet demand.
As such, they are not going to include any streaming apps in the player on release.
They may add streaming apps later when they have more time to develop them and add them via firmware updates.

In anticipation of this I have already purchased a newer Roku player that outputs 4K/HDR for selected apps.
I have to run it though my HDCP compliant processor though. If you got the Roku Ultra model, you could run
HDMI direct to your pj, and the SP/dif audio to your Anthem.
However, when you include the Oppo player, this creates 2 sources for 4K and thus your switcher scenario comes back into play.


----------



## raviatuofu

*Best way to resolve Dust Blob on two day old Epson 5040*

Bought a new Epson 5040 for Thanksgiving. Installed it and the images are mind blowing. 
While turning it off , noticed that when the screen turns dark there a round purplish circle.

Wife says its nothing but that dust blob is bugging the hell out of me. 

What will be the best way to resolve it? Return it back to the authorized retailer or contact Epson? I do not want to end up with a refurb unit.

Advice/ prior experience on these kind of issues will be highly appreciated.


----------



## ht guy

Smarty-pants said:


> I have only had mine for a couple days now and don' know for sure on other sources,
> but when I send it UHD material from a UHD player, the zoom function is greyed out, so I know it doesn't work
> with that source. Heck I don't even know if it has a stretch feature at all for anamorphic lenses.


Can someone confirm whether or not the 5040 can do vertical stretch - with 1080p upscale and with UHD material?

Thanks!


----------



## PioManiac

ht guy said:


> Can someone confirm whether or not the 5040 can do vertical stretch - with 1080p upscale and with UHD material?
> 
> Thanks!


No, only the Pro Model Epson projectors have the ability to stretch for an external panamorphic lens setup.

You would have to upgrade to an Epson 6040 if you have an anamorphic lens/sled setup.


----------



## ht guy

PioManiac said:


> No, only the Pro Model Epson projectors have the ability to stretch for an external panamorphic lens setup.
> 
> You would have to upgrade to an Epson 6040 if you have an anamorphic lens/sled setup.


Aarrgghh. Looks like the 5040 will get returned once it arrives. Never guessed a $3k projector wouldn't handle the anamorphic, but understand not many of us care.

Sure was fun thinking about upgrading my 9 y/o PJ. Looks like I'll have to keep my eyes open for a good deal on a 6040. Speaking of which, are they (officially) available through retailers, or only installers?


----------



## aaranddeeman

ht guy said:


> Aarrgghh. Looks like the 5040 will get returned once it arrives. Never guessed a $3k projector wouldn't handle the anamorphic, but understand not many of us care.
> 
> Sure was fun thinking about upgrading my 9 y/o PJ. Looks like I'll have to keep my eyes open for a good deal on a 6040. Speaking of which, are they (officially) available through retailers, or only installers?


Just check, your AVR might do it.
I believe Denon 7200 does vertical stretch.


----------



## gnolivos

Does the PS4 pro Netflix app support 4K ? I am not sure I am seeing any UHD content listed via the app.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Smarty-pants said:


> Has everyone else who has bought the 5040 also not received a manual in the box with the projector??
> That is some serious BS and I always use the manual with most of my devices, especially projectors.
> There is a big learning curve to know what all the features/settings do in the 5040, and now apparently
> I have to look up the manual online to see what the settings even do, and if I want to read it while adjusting the pj,
> then I have to print out a sh!t-ton of pages. Not cool. :/


Go green my friend.. 
There should be a disk included containing the manual, IMHO.


----------



## Smarty-pants

aaranddeeman said:


> Go green my friend..
> There should be a disk included containing the manual, IMHO.


Umm, I'm fine with green but green doesn't calibrate my projector.
So... I have to print the whole manual (from the disc), or I have to move my desktop from my office to my theater room,
or I have to use my tablet or phone to browse the online manual (assuming there even is one),
and all of those options are a PITFA. I have an old laptop, but it's slow and clunky and I'm not buying a new laptop
JUST to read the 5040 manual in my theater room. Again, green is good, but this is just impractical.


----------



## pbels

*Problems while using xbox oneS Madden*

Watching my son play with new xbox oneS today about 3 minutes into his game the screen went blank for a full second or two. I didn't think much of it until it happened again about 10 minutes later.

Does anyone know what to make of this?


----------



## Smarty-pants

ht guy said:


> Aarrgghh. Looks like the 5040 will get returned once it arrives. Never guessed a $3k projector wouldn't handle the anamorphic, but understand not many of us care.
> 
> Sure was fun thinking about upgrading my 9 y/o PJ. Looks like I'll have to keep my eyes open for a good deal on a 6040. Speaking of which, are they (officially) available through retailers, or only installers?


I checked, and don't see any VS option in the 5040. In fact all the zoom modes are still greyed out with UHD and with 1080p too.
I don't use an anamorphic lens so never bothered to check if it even had that option.
I agree with you though, a $3k projector should have it.
In fact everyone keeps saying that the 5040 and 6040 are the same except for the color, but apparently that is not true.


----------



## am2model3

In my setup i have occasionally had the hdmi 1 sec blank always comes right back. It rarely happens cant explain it.


----------



## robc1976

Please excuse my ignorance here, trying to understand all this...I am a TV guy going to a projector.

With the HDMI ports I have my TV going to the ARC INPUT is this how these projectors work also? I noticed in the vid it has a 1080P hdmi and a 4K hdmi. If I have this unit connected to the ARC on my AVR (1 hdmi cable) do I just switch between the ports on the projector? A 4K hdmi also supports 1080p. So when watching 1080p content just leave HDMI in 1080P port and when watching 4K BD just switch hdmi to 4K port? Very surprised it just doesn't upscale or downscale content depending on source material? Am I missing something?


----------



## gnolivos

Am I correct in that on PS4 Pro you only get 4K content in 8 bit? Even bluray set to 4K seems to send 8 bit 4:4:4


----------



## rupedogg24

mwaarna said:


> New Review of the Epson 5040 (Nov 25th):
> http://4k.com/projector/epson-5040ub-review-4k-hdr-projector/


Whoever put this review together clearly stole some pictures from this forum for use on their site. Two of my photos posted to this forum are used in the article. Need to contact them to take those photos down as i did not give permission for use. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

rupedogg24 said:


> Whoever put this review together clearly stole some pictures from this forum for use on their site. Two of my photos posted to this forum are used in the article. Need to contact them to take those photos down as i did not give permission for use.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Totally saw that! That's yours with the big subs, right!? 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

Ronman79 said:


> Totally saw that! That's yours with the big subs, right!?
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Yep! Looks like the site builder used several photos from this forum. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## PioManiac

Hate to break it to you guys,
but once uploaded to the internet you're photos are free to the world to use.

unless you watermark/copyright them legally you are SOL


----------



## am2model3

Hehe i thought maybe you wrote the review!


----------



## dimi123

ht guy said:


> Aarrgghh. Looks like the 5040 will get returned once it arrives. Never guessed a $3k projector wouldn't handle the anamorphic, but understand not many of us care.
> 
> Sure was fun thinking about upgrading my 9 y/o PJ. Looks like I'll have to keep my eyes open for a good deal on a 6040. Speaking of which, are they (officially) available through retailers, or only installers?


The OPPO will have an anamorphic stretch option for sure. No need to return the 5040.


----------



## little_donkey

This is the first projector I have that doesn't cool down when powering off. Is it normal? I don't here the fan. My sony HW55 and jvc rs15 did cool down. You could hear the fan for one minute after powering down the projector. 

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

little_donkey said:


> This is the first projector I have that doesn't cool down when powering off. Is it normal?


Yeah. Heard this before. Seems to not be needed here, for whatever reason. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

rupedogg24 said:


> Whoever put this review together clearly stole some pictures from this forum for use on their site. Two of my photos posted to this forum are used in the article. Need to contact them to take those photos down as i did not give permission for use.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


 that sucks and same **** has happened to me ave if you did not put a copyright insignia on your photo and its on the internet they can use it because its considered public. Total BS I know


----------



## NoTechi

little_donkey said:


> This is the first projector I have that doesn't cool down when powering off. Is it normal? I don't here the fan. My sony HW55 and jvc rs15 did cool down. You could hear the fan for one minute after powering down the projector.
> 
> Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


Same for me. But if you turn off the projector and turn it on again before the lamp cooled down it will do cooling. I can hear the fan working for some time before it turns on again.

NoTechi


----------



## rjguk

robc1976 said:


> that sucks and same **** has happened to me ave if you did not put a copyright insignia on your photo and its on the internet they can use it because its considered public. Total BS I know


Definitely not true, images are copyright if you took them, there doesn't have to be anything on the image. A site using your images without permission is breaking the law. If you want to get serious then DMCA is used. Or point it out to them and see what they say.
Many articles, but http://lifehacker.com/5992419/the-best-ways-to-be-sure-youre-legally-using-online-photos sums it up.

Back to Epsons...


----------



## NoTechi

gnolivos said:


> Does the PS4 pro Netflix app support 4K ? I am not sure I am seeing any UHD content listed via the app.


The Xbox One S does 4k Netflix just no 4k HDR. Most likely same for PS4 Pro.

NoTechi


----------



## covsound1

i remember when i first got my epson a few weeks ago and my buddy was over i was using one of the first sony high end blue ray player that gave you the option to send rgb. i was amazed by the density and clarity of the image as well as the black level. some one on this forum posted how his ps4 sending rgb to his 365sony looked better than the image on his epson. coming from a sonyvw50 myself i understand his point. that same day i set up the epson pj i went out and got a phillps 4k player and never used my sony blueray again until tonight. if using the natural mode you skip one conversion step. all i can say is wow!! looks like i will have to do separate 4k and rbg blue ray players. Question as my sony player is about 8 years old what do i replace it with a ps4?


----------



## pasender91

hi all, I'm receving my 9300 today (is it equivalent to 5040 or 6040, i don't know )

As a recap to all, could existing owners share their settings to display 2K sources optimally ?
Do you use 4K enhancement, Super resolution, detail enhancement ?
And what about frame interpolation ?

Thanks for your tips


----------



## hatlesschimp

Halichopter said:


> Jayselle, I just got my Samsung 8500 and downloaded the firmware update yesterday. It now does BT.2020


Mean while us Xbox One S owner be like 😢😭😧


----------



## hatlesschimp

PioManiac said:


> I recall the post from zombie10k and the day it happened very well,
> it was the final straw that pulled me to The "Dark Side"
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...red-lens-position-memory-34.html#post46163217
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and this was the closer:


Horses for courses bro! Cant game on a JVC. But I do miss my x7000 sometimes having known it intimately for 470hrs.


----------



## hatlesschimp

dvdwilly3 said:


> Take a look at the SDR/HDR pictures in this Sony article...and see what you think.
> 
> I, and many others, the SDR pics over the HDR pics. To each, his/her own...
> 
> You can try the suggested settings by following the link in my signature.
> There, you will find suggested settings and resulting screen shots...


I think SDR over HDR everyday of the week because then I dont need degree in rocket science to make it HDR work.


----------



## hatlesschimp

rupedogg24 said:


> Whoever put this review together clearly stole some pictures from this forum for use on their site. Two of my photos posted to this forum are used in the article. Need to contact them to take those photos down as i did not give permission for use.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


The bloke compares the 5040 to the high-end Sony and says the 5040 is not as good in Image quality. - Captain Obvious! 

One of them costs $4,000 and is true bang for buck, the other is $15,000 and has funamental flaw that can slowly get you over time. LOL! (prices in AUD btw!)


----------



## ht guy

aaranddeeman said:


> Just check, your AVR might do it.
> I believe Denon 7200 does vertical stretch.





dimi123 said:


> The OPPO will have an anamorphic stretch option for sure. No need to return the 5040.


Excellent!

So I can stretch my non-UHD with Anthem and the UHD with the Oppo.

Now to figure out how to get Netflix/Amazon. I'm not a gamer so it looks like a Roku until they get added to the Oppo as my Tivo (or Apple TV) is only 1080...


----------



## Everdog

*Roku Ultra?*

I can't plug in my Xbox 1 S until after xmas because it is a present for the kids, so I did an impulse buy and bought a Roku Ultra on sale. So far it has been a disappointment. It appears the Plex app is playing my 4K content, but I don't have anything high quality to view at the moment. The problem is I can't get any of the other apps to play 4K. Youtube and the others will only play "HD". And for YouTube I can't find an option to change the resolution like I can on a PC. I've tried switching the Roku settings to 4K and 4K HDR, but have not had any luck. 


Anyone else try the Roku Ultra? Can any of the apps send 4K to the Epson and work properly?


----------



## covsound1

hatlesschimp said:


> Horses for courses bro! Cant game on a JVC. But I do miss my x7000 sometimes having known it intimately for 470hrs.


can you tell us more about the X7000. dont want to start a debate but would like to know your thoughts.


----------



## hatlesschimp

covsound1 said:


> can you tell us more about the X7000. dont want to start a debate but would like to know your thoughts.


The X7000 is a beast! Its purely movies only though and sports can be distracting at times with motion. Definitely No gaming due to the image processes it has on board that delay the input response from pushing a button on the controller or keyboard or mouse to performing that action onscreen. I clocked it at 132ms in THX Mode the rest of the modes were 155ms or more. I recommend to anyone with a TV or Projector dont go above 50ms! Pc Gamers should not go over 30ms ideally the lower the number the better but in theory 16.7ms is the lowest input lag you can get at 60hz. This Epson clocks in at 29~30ms. 

The JVC is clearly the King of blacks and native contrast! Its not something I can tell you about, you have to see it for yourself. I tried all I could to keep the X7000 and get a second hand PJ from someone online but couldn't stay in budget for the rest of the theatre room. I tried looking for decent second hang gaming capable PJ but couldn't find any cheap enough or in my state. The lad I sold the X7000 couldn't believe how good the image was when he came to pick it up. Of course I had the UHD version of Xmen: Apocalypse playing, turned the sound system up and he was like yep bag and tag it mate I will take it! I was the same too when I saw it! I had to have it. As he was leaving I said I will probably regret this and he said well its mine now with a laugh. But he meant it 

But I had done the research on the tw9300/6040ub before the sale of the X7000 but hadn't seen one in person. I walked into my local store and turned it on and was happy to see a bright vibrant picture. The depth in the blacks wasnt there and the black scenes didnt go as dark black and also the top and bottom 2.35:1 bands at the top and bottom on the 16:9 screen were a dead giveaway too. I think I left the room to check on my kids running around the store or check on my wife and I came back a short time later after seeing the 4k sony and 1080p sony in another room and a kid of one of the workers there had his PlayStation or xbox hooked up to it and thats when I was like I need this now. If it the Epson was out at the time when I bought the JVC x7000 I would have bought the Epson still. its an all round projector and its a lot lighter too, That x7000 is a back breaker. 

To me the JVC wouldn't be out of place in a real cinema. Its just so convincing the job it does and the eshift adds this lovely filmic look too, once again hard to explain but looks great and my wife even made the comment this is better than our local dodgy cinema. The Epson is very very good and 99.9% of the people on AVS would be more than happy with the image it produces. But its still a step behind the x7000 and x9000. To me it might only be 20% to 10% less in image quality - Ive thought about it a lot and it wouldn't be too far away from that! But I wouldn't pay the price difference now after seeing what the Epson can do and the features it has. Really its game changer and will force the other manufacturers to start dropping there prices or offer a more complete product for the same price. We the consumer finally have a win! 

Hope this helps sorry for the long story, they tend to come out when its 2am and I'm knackered!

Im sorry but the video below is the only one I think I have of the JVC in action before I sold it, its very short with no sound! I was testing it in my new house I'm building. Also my other videos are a lot better lol, the Epson unboxing video link should pop up and take you too that as well and you can kind of see the difference but its not the same movie. I might have some more x7000 videos on my phone. BTW In the coming week I have a few new projectors and OLED 4K HDR TV I'm testing out so might be worth subbing to my channel lol.


----------



## Docj04

SALadder22FF said:


> I've seen a few guys post about upscaling the image with their receiver and pushing it to the 5040/6040 and the image is much better than if you just let the projector try to upscale. Is this the recommended way to upscale for this projector?



In for this as well. I have a Yamaha rx-a2050, and i suppose the best way to check is to try them both out and see which unit produces the better image. It's a labor of love i suppose trying to learn how to calibrate and set the respective units and what jobs to assign to each of them when it comes to image quality.

SO MANY variables...


----------



## dvdwilly3

Docj04 said:


> In for this as well. I have a Yamaha rx-a2050, and i suppose the best way to check is to try them both out and see which unit produces the better image. It's a labor of love i suppose trying to learn how to calibrate and set the respective units and what jobs to assign to each of them when it comes to image quality.
> 
> SO MANY variables...


IIRC, that is what I did...let the UHD player or AVR upscale the image.

In particular, I seem to recall that the upscaling on my Denon X6200 was better than the upscaling on the Epson with my TiVo Roamio.

See the link in my signature for the settings that I used and resulting screen shots.

It at least gives you a starting point for tweaking...

Have fun!


----------



## Docj04

Thanks Willy!

Sent from my HTC6515LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## Spyderturbo007

ndabunka said:


> The Epson does not handle the 60Hz signals as many on here including gamers are seeking. It is a KNOWN issue. Buyers can make their decision and move on. I am tired of people saying "it doesn't handle UHD & HDR" because that is FALSE/WRONG/INACCURATE. It handles UHD/HDR in 24/30Hz modes as DESIGNED...PERIOD.
> 
> If people want to post that it doesn't handle UHD/HDR in 60Hz mode with the 10 or 12-bit signals... go right ahead, you won't find any arguement from me as that is an accurate statement.


I'm going to argue with you on that one. How is it a "KNOWN" issue when you watch this nice little video with some guy from Epson saying that "it plays well with all HDR" (2:00).


----------



## am2model3

After watching&gaming @ 2160p/60fps 4:2:0 8 bit; i have no worry that this is 'settling' for image quality. it was amazing. I take delivery of 5040ub today and powering up will be epic! My jaw hit the floor! I saw all kinds of amazing detail that is not even visible @ 1080p. Wow!! That was on a 50inch uhdtv; so the big screen 135 inch will be epic!


----------



## RAJEEV NELLIYODAN

*completed my project*

pics attached from 5040ub


----------



## MississippiMan

am2model3 said:


> After watching&gaming @ 2160p/60fps 4:2:0 8 bit; i have no worry that this is 'settling' for image quality. it was amazing. I take delivery of 5040ub today and powering up will be epic! My jaw hit the floor! I saw all kinds of amazing detail that is not even visible @ 1080p. Wow!! That was on a 50inch uhdtv; so the big screen 135 inch will be epic!


Should be....I've been watching it at 178" at a Customer's house and so far...mostly it's been incredible. Been having fits with getting the HDR squared away though...primarily because of the Samsung 8500 4K BD-DVD that's in there.

Going back to set up the Wireless (UBE) as the 2.2 HDMI input still seems to be what's making the unit under-perform. (...might be the cable though, so I'm changing that out as well....with this'n.

Gotta 'nother 5040UB going in, (w/140" Screen) and that one will use a Phillips 4K BD-DVD as well as a ROKU Ultra, both of which seem to present no issues in a direct HDMI mode (w/18gbps Cord)


----------



## mutiger

So I finally decided to pull the trigger and order the UBE from ABT.com since they are the only authorized dealer with a reduced price and now that projector is completely gone from their web site. My guess is that Epson didn't like their sale price. Oh well, I'll wait. It's easier to make a decision when somebody else makes it for you.


----------



## PeterJ101

mutiger said:


> So I finally decided to pull the trigger and order the UBE from ABT.com since they are the only authorized dealer with a reduced price and now that projector is completely gone from their web site. My guess is that Epson didn't like their sale price. Oh well, I'll wait. It's easier to make a decision when somebody else makes it for you.


Strange. I was told by ProjectorPeople that ABT was not an authorized dealer and that they could not match the price. It's definitely annoying the UBE was not discounted, I was ready to buy.


----------



## Everdog

Everdog said:


> I can't plug in my Xbox 1 S until after xmas because it is a present for the kids, so I did an impulse buy and bought a Roku Ultra on sale. So far it has been a disappointment. It appears the Plex app is playing my 4K content, but I don't have anything high quality to view at the moment. The problem is I can't get any of the other apps to play 4K. Youtube and the others will only play "HD". And for YouTube I can't find an option to change the resolution like I can on a PC. I've tried switching the Roku settings to 4K and 4K HDR, but have not had any luck.
> 
> 
> Anyone else try the Roku Ultra? Can any of the apps send 4K to the Epson and work properly?




I had some Costco bucks laying around and just picked up the Samsung 85 which is the Costco version of the Samsung. I'll give it a try night after updating the FW. Which ever works best I'll keep. Like I said, so far Youtube and other apps are not doing 4K with the RoKu. Youtube shows only 1080p - HD.


----------



## mutiger

I called Epson and they confirmed ABT.com is NOT an authorized seller. You can also check Epson's website by plugging in their zip code (60025) and they don't show up there either. I know they were at one time but probably lost it due to this kind of shadiness.


----------



## Ronman79

MississippiMan said:


> Should be....I've been watching it at 178" at a Customer's house and so far...mostly it's been incredible. Been having fits with getting the HDR squared away though...primarily because of the Samsung 8500 4K BD-DVD that's in there.
> 
> Going back to set up the Wireless (UBE) as the 2.2 HDMI input still seems to be what's making the unit under-perform. (...might be the cable though, so I'm changing that out as well....with this'n.
> 
> Gotta 'nother 5040UB going in, (w/140" Screen) and that one will use a Phillips 4K BD-DVD as well as a ROKU Ultra, both of which seem to present no issues in a direct HDMI mode (w/18gbps Cord)


Read my PM on that 4K HDR streaming to the Epson. I think getting the "HDR" aspect that way is still an issue overall. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

mutiger said:


> So I finally decided to pull the trigger and order the UBE from ABT.com since they are the only authorized dealer with a reduced price and now that projector is completely gone from their web site. My guess is that Epson didn't like their sale price. Oh well, I'll wait. It's easier to make a decision when somebody else makes it for you.





PeterJ101 said:


> Strange. I was told by ProjectorPeople that ABT was not an authorized dealer and that they could not match the price. It's definitely annoying the UBE was not discounted, I was ready to buy.



Well Guys,

Amazon appears to be an Authorized Epson Dealer, and the lower Sale Prices are up there too, and both are Amazon Prime:

https://www.amazon.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5040UB-Enhancement/dp/B01IO0QWJA/


https://www.amazon.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5040UBe-Enhancement/dp/B01IO0QVZ0/

If your a Prime member, then basically you can't get screwed.


----------



## mutiger

MississippiMan said:


> Amazon appears to be an Authorized Epson Dealer, and the lower Sale Prices are up there too, and both are Amazon Prime:
> 
> .


They are not lower on the UBE, only the UB.


----------



## Ronman79

MississippiMan said:


> Well Guys,
> 
> Amazon appears to be an Authorized Epson Dealer, and the lower Sale Prices are up there too, and both are Amazon Prime:


UBE is MSRP 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Spyderturbo007

My 5040UB is supposed to ship today and get delivered on Wednesday. 

Now all I have to do is finish the theater....unless I decide to break the cardinal rule and hang the projector before it's done.  

I ordered it on Friday and got it for the sale price, plus they threw in 2 pair of 3D glasses.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Everdog said:


> I can't plug in my Xbox 1 S until after xmas because it is a present for the kids, so I did an impulse buy and bought a Roku Ultra on sale. So far it has been a disappointment. It appears the Plex app is playing my 4K content, but I don't have anything high quality to view at the moment. The problem is I can't get any of the other apps to play 4K. Youtube and the others will only play "HD". And for YouTube I can't find an option to change the resolution like I can on a PC. I've tried switching the Roku settings to 4K and 4K HDR, but have not had any luck.
> 
> 
> Anyone else try the Roku Ultra? Can any of the apps send 4K to the Epson and work properly?


I have only had the 5040 for a few days now, but I noticed something with the Roku Premier+ I have.
I did have it connected to a 1080p display before I connected it to the Epson.
Since the old display was not 4K compatible, the Roku would only set to 1080p, and no 4K option in Netflix.
When I connected it to the Epson, I set the output to 4K/HDR, but there was still no 4K option in Netflix.
However later that day or the next day, the 4K option was finally available in Netflix,
so for some reason there was a long delay.
Maybe try rebooting the Roku, or just wait and see if it shows up.
I have not had time yet to try other apps outside of NF.


----------



## Smarty-pants

robc1976 said:


> Please excuse my ignorance here, trying to understand all this...I am a TV guy going to a projector.
> 
> With the HDMI ports I have my TV going to the ARC INPUT is this how these projectors work also? I noticed in the vid it has a 1080P hdmi and a 4K hdmi. If I have this unit connected to the ARC on my AVR (1 hdmi cable) do I just switch between the ports on the projector? A 4K hdmi also supports 1080p. So when watching 1080p content just leave HDMI in 1080P port and when watching 4K BD just switch hdmi to 4K port? Very surprised it just doesn't upscale or downscale content depending on source material? Am I missing something?


The HDMI-1 port is compatible with all sources UP TO 4K, while the HDMI-2 port is UP TO 1080P.
The 2 ports on the pj are so you can send 2 different sources to the pj (if you want or need to).
You don't have to use both ports though. You could just run it all to the HDMI-1 port for all your 4k and 1080p content,
especially if you are using an AVR/processor that already does HDMI switching.


----------



## robc1976

About to by this projector today, need some totaly newbie questions answered.

1. I and getting a 125" 2.35 screen, I know this projector does not allow for a anamorphic lens will I just use the zoom feature for movies in 2.35? How about when gaming in 16:9? Do you have to adjust it everytime or does it display automatically depending on source? Totally new to this lol

2. How do your switch between 1080P and 4K if its plugged into the ARC on the receiver (if that's the correct way to hook it up). I noticed it has a 1080P HDMI & 4K HDMI do you manually just switch ports on the projector depending on source?


----------



## Everdog

Smarty-pants said:


> I have only had the 5040 for a few days now, but I noticed something with the Roku Premier+ I have.
> I did have it connected to a 1080p display before I connected it to the Epson.
> Since the old display was not 4K compatible, the Roku would only set to 1080p, and no 4K option in Netflix.
> When I connected it to the Epson, I set the output to 4K/HDR, but there was still no 4K option in Netflix.
> However later that day or the next day, the 4K option was finally available in Netflix,
> so for some reason there was a long delay.
> Maybe try rebooting the Roku, or just wait and see if it shows up.
> I have not had time yet to try other apps outside of NF.



Which level of Netflix do you have or did it change recently?
Standard (streaming)$10 for 2 screens HD
Premium (streaming)$12 for 4 screens HD + Ultra HD


I never use Neflix on more than 2 screens at a time so I only have "standard" and therefore no option for their limited Ultra HD. 
My guess is you have premium and it took a bit for the app to determine it.


----------



## Everdog

MississippiMan said:


> Gotta 'nother 5040UB going in, (w/140" Screen) and that one will use a Phillips 4K BD-DVD as well as *a ROKU Ultra,* both of which seem to present no issues in a direct HDMI mode (w/18gbps Cord)



Please let us know if the Roku Ultra apps work with 4K. I was unable to get Youtube to play 4K video on the Roku Ultra. It appeared Plex was able to play 4K though.


----------



## Smarty-pants

robc1976 said:


> About to by this projector today, need some totaly newbie questions answered.
> 
> 1. I and getting a 125" 2.35 screen, I know this projector does not allow for a anamorphic lens will I just use the zoom feature for movies in 2.35? How about when gaming in 16:9? Do you have to adjust it everytime or does it display automatically depending on source? Totally new to this lol
> 
> 2. How do your switch between 1080P and 4K if its plugged into the ARC on the receiver (if that's the correct way to hook it up). I noticed it has a 1080P HDMI & 4K HDMI do you manually just switch ports on the projector depending on source?


You can use an anamorphic lens with the 5040, but you just need a separate source to do the proper stretching for the image.
If you use the zoom method on a Cinemascope screen, then the black bars with just shine above and below your screen.
You do need to adjust the pj when you go between 21:9 and 16:9 images, but the Epson also has "lens memory",
so you can program different setting into the memory profiles, and when you click it it will revert to your saved settings,
including the zoom. So while it's not "automatic", it can be done with the press of a button after you get it all calibrated and saved.

Just run one 18 GBps capable cable to the HDMI-1 input of the pj from your AVR.
It should handle both 4k and 1080p sources, assuming your AVR is HDCP 2.2 compliant for 4K / HDR / REC 2020.
As for "ARC", you don't need that with a projector since the projector has no audio capabilities,
but the ARC input is usually the same as any other HDMI input, so it should work fine, again as long as your AVR is 4k capable.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Everdog said:


> Which level of Netflix do you have or did it change recently?
> Standard (streaming)$10 for 2 screens HD
> Premium (streaming)$12 for 4 screens HD + Ultra HD
> 
> 
> I never use Neflix on more than 2 screens at a time so I only have "standard" and therefore no option for their limited Ultra HD.
> My guess is you have premium and it took a bit for the app to determine it.


Premium of course. You can't get 4K with Standard.


----------



## ndabunka

Spyderturbo007 said:


> I'm going to argue with you on that one. How is it a "KNOWN" issue when you watch this nice little video with some guy from Epson saying that "it plays well with all HDR" (2:00).


There are ALWAYS going to be people doing bad reviews on the Internet. Neither you or I can be the "Internet Police" but since you are a member of this forum you DO have access to this information. 

In hindsight, my use of "Common Knowledge" may not have been as EXACT as it should have been. Naturally, it was intended as "AVS Forum-acquired common knowledge" yet I also see that much of that present company tends to not read these threads and rather, as in the general populace, many simply expect to be spoon fed information at their convenience. Present company excepted of course.


----------



## Dave Harper

SALadder22FF said:


> How does the 4k review of the projector praise the HDR for being amazing and more important than 4k, but it seems like the majority of people on here don't like it and think it makes it way too dark.



The honest fact right now is that projectors really don't have the hutzpah in the gonads Dept when it comes to brightness, especially local zones across the screen like flat panels can. You really have to do some magical and knowledgeable tweaking to get HDR to look OK using a projector. It also helps immensely if you have a nice dedicated and light controlled theater. 



covsound1 said:


> i remember when i first got my epson a few weeks ago and my buddy was over i was using one of the first sony high end blue ray player that gave you the option to send rgb. i was amazed by the density and clarity of the image as well as the black level. some one on this forum posted how his ps4 sending rgb to his 365sony looked better than the image on his epson. coming from a sonyvw50 myself i understand his point. that same day i set up the epson pj i went out and got a phillps 4k player and never used my sony blueray again until tonight. if using the natural mode you skip one conversion step. all i can say is wow!! looks like i will have to do separate 4k and rbg blue ray players. Question as my sony player is about 8 years old what do i replace it with a ps4?



I think you're talking about me and my comparison using an Xbox One S on a 5040UBe and a Sony VPL-VW350ES?


----------



## gnolivos

So I tested a new PS4 Pro last night with my 5040 via HDMI wired. 

I love it BUT I hate the 8 bit banding. It says at 4K on the PS4: 4:2:0 8 bit. 

Is there a limitation somewhere along the chain that prohibits 4:2:0 at 12 bit? I could settle for that without HDR. But 8 bit is a deal breaker for me for movies. Other than that, loving the PS4 pro.


----------



## Everdog

ndabunka said:


> There are ALWAYS going to be people doing bad reviews on the Internet. Neither you or I can be the "Internet Police" but since you are a member of this forum you DO have access to this information.
> 
> In hindsight, my use of "Common Knowledge" may not have been as EXACT as it should have been. Naturally, it was intended as "AVS Forum-acquired common knowledge" yet I also see that much of that present company tends to not read these threads and rather, as in the general populace, many simply expect to be spoon fed information at their convenience. Present company excepted of course.


I just don't see what you are arguing.


In the marketing they talk about it working with all 4K and HDR, but it does not. Most buyers won't understand the difference between 30 and 60 FPS. They will just be frustrated that their projector marketed as playing 4K/HDR does not play their 4K/HDR material. They won't care if it works for other people.


btw, I can dunk a basketball. Impressive, right?
In the fine print I'll mention only when the rim is less than 8 feet, but there was nothing wrong with that first statement. And anyone complaining that I can't (because I can't on a standard 10 foot rim) is "doing bad reviews".


----------



## ndabunka

Everdog said:


> I just don't see what you are arguing.


My reply was in response to what a separate poster thought was a mis-leading review. I was agreeing with him. That is all.


----------



## robc1976

Smarty-pants said:


> You can use an anamorphic lens with the 5040, but you just need a separate source to do the proper stretching for the image.
> If you use the zoom method on a Cinemascope screen, then the black bars with just shine above and below your screen.
> You do need to adjust the pj when you go between 21:9 and 16:9 images, but the Epson also has "lens memory",
> so you can program different setting into the memory profiles, and when you click it it will revert to your saved settings,
> including the zoom. So while it's not "automatic", it can be done with the press of a button after you get it all calibrated and saved.
> 
> Just run one 18 GBps capable cable to the HDMI-1 input of the pj from your AVR.
> It should handle both 4k and 1080p sources, assuming your AVR is HDCP 2.2 compliant for 4K / HDR / REC 2020.
> As for "ARC", you don't need that with a projector since the projector has no audio capabilities,
> but the ARC input is usually the same as any other HDMI input, so it should work fine, again as long as your AVR is 4k capable.


 Thank you, that is the info I needed, I have a 4311ci but new receiver on the way is 4K. I have a 27GBps cable so that will work perfectly. Why does the PJ have a 1080 port and 4K port? I just hope I have a spare input. My new receiver should have spare ports besides BD, xbox 1, xbox 360 ect.

Okay while I have you here, more on the anamorphic lens...is this a better way to stretch the image rather than zoom? What do you mean by separate source to use with anamorphic lens?


----------



## Threefiddie

Resisting the urge so bad right now to buy this while it's still on sale...I just can't come to grips to buy it knowing I can't get everything I want out of it with it not supporting pc, xbox, ps4 pro 100%. Stuck between this (selling my hw50es) or keeping my hw50es and getting a samsung 4k ks8500 or ks9500 or lg c6 oled. 

driving me nuts.


----------



## robc1976

Threefiddie said:


> Resisting the urge so bad right now to buy this while it's still on sale...I just can't come to grips to buy it knowing I can't get everything I want out of it with it not supporting pc, xbox, ps4 pro 100%. Stuck between this (selling my hw50es) or keeping my hw50es and getting a samsung 4k ks8500 or ks9500 or lg c6 oled.
> 
> driving me nuts.


woah,woah glad I saw this post, I use xbox daily..what does it not support? Details please!


----------



## Threefiddie

robc1976 said:


> woah,woah glad I saw this post, I use xbox daily..n what does it not support? Details please!


no 4k hdr on xbox or ps4 pro.


----------



## Ashma

Smarty-pants said:


> I have only had the 5040 for a few days now, but I noticed something with the Roku Premier+ I have.
> I did have it connected to a 1080p display before I connected it to the Epson.
> Since the old display was not 4K compatible, the Roku would only set to 1080p, and no 4K option in Netflix.
> When I connected it to the Epson, I set the output to 4K/HDR, but there was still no 4K option in Netflix.
> However later that day or the next day, the 4K option was finally available in Netflix,
> so for some reason there was a long delay.
> Maybe try rebooting the Roku, or just wait and see if it shows up.
> I have not had time yet to try other apps outside of NF.


I am very interested in hearing your compatibility findings since I am interested in purchasing the Roku Premiere+ to view Amazon Video.
Fingers crossed that you get it to work and hopefully keep the HDR intact.


----------



## robc1976

Smarty-pants said:


> The HDMI-1 port is compatible with all sources UP TO 4K, while the HDMI-2 port is UP TO 1080P.
> The 2 ports on the pj are so you can send 2 different sources to the pj (if you want or need to).
> You don't have to use both ports though. You could just run it all to the HDMI-1 port for all your 4k and 1080p content,
> especially if you are using an AVR/processor that already does HDMI switching.


so sources that are say 720P you use the the 1080 port?


----------



## BiggusDiccus

Threefiddie said:


> Resisting the urge so bad right now to buy this while it's still on sale...I just can't come to grips to buy it knowing I can't get everything I want out of it with it not supporting pc, xbox, ps4 pro 100%. Stuck between this (selling my hw50es) or keeping my hw50es and getting a samsung 4k ks8500 or ks9500 or lg c6 oled.
> 
> 
> 
> driving me nuts.




Resistance is futile. I had the same dilemma but pulled the plug on this. I'm upgrading from a PTAE 7000U, which was a total bust, to this unit for not only the 4K resolution but it is a hands down a major upgrade across the board compared to what I have currently. My drawbacks are similar to yours, I have an XBOX, PS4 and a PC that I want to use. I'm going to have to bypass my Denon 3312 because I need more bandwidth from my HDMI but I feel it'll be worth it given what I gain. 



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

robc1976 said:


> that sucks and same **** has happened to me ave if you did not put a copyright insignia on your photo and its on the internet they can use it because its considered public. Total BS I know




The best way around this is to watermark you pics before uploading. Tons of free programs that do that. Just use a huge translucent SUPER large font front and center.
With your name or something that would make it difficult for pic jacking


----------



## robc1976

Threefiddie said:


> no 4k hdr on xbox or ps4 pro.


That sucks, do basically no 4K for xbox (forgot name of new one coming out)? That's a deal breaker for me...damn


----------



## Threefiddie

robc1976 said:


> That sucks, do basically no 4K for xbox (forgot name of new one coming out)? That's a deal breaker for me...damn


it still does 4k. just not in hdr.


----------



## robc1976

sddp said:


> The best way around this is to watermark you pics before uploading. Tons of free programs that do that. Just use a huge translucent SUPER large font front and center.
> With your name or something that would make it difficult for pic jacking


100% agree, I do that now on pics for business. I had a company steal my pics a few years back and use them in a book, I had a lawyer and everything...but since they where not water marked they are considered "public domain".


----------



## robc1976

Threefiddie said:


> it still does 4k. just not in hdr.


I need to read more, just learning about this stuff.

HDR = more vibtant colors, crispier image correct?


----------



## Smarty-pants

robc1976 said:


> Thank you, that is the info I needed, I have a 4311ci but new receiver on the way is 4K. I have a 27GBps cable so that will work perfectly. Why does the PJ have a 1080 port and 4K port? I just hope I have a spare input. My new receiver should have spare ports besides BD, xbox 1, xbox 360 ect.
> 
> Okay while I have you here, more on the anamorphic lens...is this a better way to stretch the image rather than zoom? What do you mean by separate source to use with anamorphic lens?





robc1976 said:


> so sources that are say 720P you use the the 1080 port?


When using an anamorphic lens, you need to STRETCH the picture to fill the full 16:9 panel,
then you slide the lens in place to fill the width of the cinemascope screen.
The Epson 5040 does not do the proper stretch needed, so you would have to use another device to do that with.
Like a DVDO or Lumagen processor, and players like Oppo have the stretch needed, but then that only comes from the player,
and won't stretch all sources, but Oppo 10x and 20x players have HDMI inputs so, it just depends on your needs and setup.
If you want to forgo the lens, you can just use the zoom method to fill the screen for 21:9 movies.

The 4K port can handle anything that is below 4K, so you can send 4K, 1080, 720, 480.
You only need to use the 2nd 1080p port IF you need another input on the pj. It just can't handle 4K.
Epson cheaped out on the 2nd port to save a few bucks instead of just tying it into the same input as the first port.
Other than that, there's no logical reason why they made it only up to 1080p.


----------



## gnolivos

HDMI port 2 certainly can handle 4K. Just not HDCP 2.2


----------



## robc1976

Smarty-pants said:


> When using an anamorphic lens, you need to STRETCH the picture to fill the full 16:9 panel,
> then you slide the lens in place to fill the width of the cinemascope screen.
> The Epson 5040 does not do the proper stretch needed, so you would have to use another device to do that with.
> Like a DVDO or Lumagen processor, and players like Oppo have the stretch needed, but then that only comes from the player,
> and won't stretch all sources, but Oppo 10x and 20x players have HDMI inputs so, it just depends on your needs and setup.
> If you want to forgo the lens, you can just use the zoom method to fill the screen for 21:9 movies.
> 
> The 4K port can handle anything that is below 4K, so you can send 4K, 1080, 720, 480.
> You only need to use the 2nd 1080p port IF you need another input on the pj. It just can't handle 4K.
> Epson cheaped out on the 2nd port to save a few bucks instead of just tying it into the same input as the first port.
> Other than that, there's no logical reason why they made it only up to 1080p.


 that makes total sense then, I figured it had to be something like that.

My player is a Denon 3113bd so I will be upgrading to a very good player.

Thank you for this info


----------



## pasender91

Hi All, sorry i repost the same as earlier today, either everyone zapped thru it, else it is a useless request, which i doubt 



> hi all, I'm receving my 9300 today (is it equivalent to 5040 or 6040, i don't know )
> 
> As a recap to all, could existing owners share their settings to display 2K sources optimally ?
> Do you use 4K enhancement, Super resolution, detail enhancement ?
> And what about frame interpolation ?
> 
> Thanks for your tips


----------



## robc1976

Threefiddie said:


> it still does 4k. just not in hdr.


 reading up on HDR and that is a huge deal, HDR does a lot for the picture. May have to look for another projector that supports it on xbox


----------



## Threefiddie

robc1976 said:


> May have to look for another projector that supports it on xbox


jvc which suck for gaming or a $15k sony 4k projector which is just stupid priced.


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> So I tested a new PS4 Pro last night with my 5040 via HDMI wired.
> 
> I love it BUT I hate the 8 bit banding. It says at 4K on the PS4: 4:2:0 8 bit.
> 
> Is there a limitation somewhere along the chain that prohibits 4:2:0 at 12 bit? I could settle for that without HDR. But 8 bit is a deal breaker for me for movies. Other than that, loving the PS4 pro.


Unfortunately 4:2:0 is the limit at 4k60. What content are you seeing banding on? I've been using the XB1S at 4:2:0 for gaming (BF1), Netflix and HBO Now--so far I've not seen any banding.


----------



## fdny71

I saw there was a new firmware 1.08 available. Does anyone know what it includes?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## k3nnis

c.kingsley said:


> Unfortunately 4:2:0 is the limit at 4k60. What content are you seeing banding on? I've been using the XB1S at 4:2:0 for gaming (BF1), Netflix and HBO Now--so far I've not seen any banding.




Are you on wired 5040? Are you using a linker?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

c.kingsley said:


> Unfortunately 4:2:0 is the limit at 4k60. What content are you seeing banding on? I've been using the XB1S at 4:2:0 for gaming (BF1), Netflix and HBO Now--so far I've not seen any banding.




Well That is for games. But for bluray 24hz it's doing 4:4:4 8 bit. Why not 12 bit?


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> Well That is for games. But for bluray 24hz it's doing 4:4:4 8 bit. Why not 12 bit?


It would have to drop to 4:2:2 to push 10 or 12 bit at 4k24. Blu ray is 4:2:0 8 bit, though, so unless there is something strange going on in the conversion from 4:2:0 -> 4:4:4 there shouldn't be any banding. Are you watching blu ray at 4k output on the PS4 or 1080p? Is there any difference if you switch?


----------



## SALadder22FF

I'm looking at using the Chief rpaus mount to mount my 5040. It's for inverted. 
will this mount work with the Epson 5040UBe?


----------



## c.kingsley

k3nnis said:


> Are you on wired 5040? Are you using a linker?


Yes, a wired 5040. No, I am not using the Linker. I bought it as a novelty to play with stripping HDR from UHD.


----------



## k3nnis

Oh ok. So what can you get out of the x1s and Epson 5040 wired? UHD blu ray HDR? Gaming HDR? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## am2model3

The 5040ub is in my house! Gonna fire up soon after my wife helps me setup. Epic!!


----------



## c.kingsley

fdny71 said:


> I saw there was a new firmware 1.08 available. Does anyone know what it includes?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


There are no release notes that I am aware of. Based on earlier reports I think we can assume this fixes the issues with locking up switching memory, but aside from that who knows? I updated mine but I don't notice any obvious differences otherwise.


----------



## c.kingsley

k3nnis said:


> Oh ok. So what can you get out of the x1s and Epson 5040 wired? UHD blu ray HDR? Gaming HDR?


Neither because the Xbox is expecting 18gbps (4k60 4:4:4 10 bit) for HDR. The 5040 won't pass the Xbox's HDR10 test in video settings, so it won't enable HDR for any sources.


----------



## k3nnis

Can it output non HDR 4K?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Threefiddie

k3nnis said:


> Can it output non HDR 4K?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


yes


----------



## k3nnis

Threefiddie said:


> yes




At what chroma sampling and bit depth?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

If you have a new Roku UHD player some really great material to check out is the Smithsonian World channel. Everything is streamed in 4K and beautifully sharp and colorful. This is from one of their newer programs. Pics taken on my samsung phone.

Chain is Roku to Onkyo RZ1100 to Epson 










































Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

c.kingsley said:


> It would have to drop to 4:2:2 to push 10 or 12 bit at 4k24. Blu ray is 4:2:0 8 bit, though, so unless there is something strange going on in the conversion from 4:2:0 -> 4:4:4 there shouldn't be any banding. Are you watching blu ray at 4k output on the PS4 or 1080p? Is there any difference if you switch?




Ok second screenshot it with PS4 pushing 1080 and Epson fauxK. 
First is PS4 pushing 4K. 

Are you saying even though I can obtain 4:4:4 12 bit (when pushing 1080) the content is limited to 8 bit anyway? I could have sworn I eliminated banding this way. Not sure what movie I was watching.


----------



## BiggusDiccus

gnolivos said:


> Ok second screenshot it with PS4 pushing 1080 and Epson fauxK.
> First is PS4 pushing 4K.
> 
> Are you saying even though I can obtain 4:4:4 12 bit (when pushing 1080) the content is limited to 8 bit anyway? I could have sworn I eliminated banding this way. Not sure what movie I was watching.




Won't the HDFury help here?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Threefiddie said:


> jvc which suck for gaming or a $15k sony 4k projector which is just stupid priced.


I will stay with epson if that is the case, will be going with the 6040UB though, Cant stand the white lol! Plus it comes with a ceiling mount and a extra bulb and 1 year extra warranty.


----------



## ndabunka

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm looking at using the Chief rpaus mount to mount my 5040. It's for inverted.
> will this mount work with the Epson 5040UBe?


That is the one I use because it was the one that previously supported my Sony HW50ES. I only use three of the legs with the proir Sony as well as the Epson. LOTS of adjustability with that design.


----------



## robc1976

Wich oppo BD player you guys suggest to go with this projector? 

Will have this receiver

https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hometheater/receivers/avrx7200wa

Looking at these 2 BD oppo players unless there is a better option. I don't stream, only movies and xbox.

http://www.audiophile.no/en/news/item/2082-oppo-bdt-101ci

https://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-bdp-103/


----------



## robc1976

Links are not working, I will fix them


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> Ok second screenshot it with PS4 pushing 1080 and Epson fauxK.
> First is PS4 pushing 4K.
> 
> Are you saying even though I can obtain 4:4:4 12 bit (when pushing 1080) the content is limited to 8 bit anyway? I could have sworn I eliminated banding this way. Not sure what movie I was watching.


Correct, blurays are encoded at 4:2:0 8bit SDR. If you set to 4k your output should be 4:2:0 8bit which is exactly what is on the disc (minus the 4k). I'm curious though, as I haven't experienced banding in any blurays. Do you have a specific movie and chapter/time that others could test to see?


----------



## c.kingsley

robc1976 said:


> Wich oppo BD player you guys suggest to go with this projector?
> 
> Will have this receiver
> 
> https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hometheater/receivers/avrx7200wa
> 
> Looking at these 2 BD oppo players unless there is a better option. I don't stream, only movies and xbox.
> 
> http://www.audiophile.no/en/news/item/2082-oppo-bdt-101ci
> 
> https://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-bdp-103/


If you want an Oppo, you should wait until the UDP-203 is released. Otherwise you can get the Panasonic, Philips or Samsung players now. If you get the Samsung, make sure to update the firmware so it supports 4:2:2 output.


----------



## hatlesschimp

rupedogg24 said:


> If you have a new Roku UHD player some really great material to check out is the Smithsonian World channel. Everything is streamed in 4K and beautifully sharp and colorful. This is from one of their newer programs. Pics taken on my samsung phone.
> 
> Chain is Roku to Onkyo RZ1100 to Epson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Umm whats the first picture of?


----------



## mutiger

BiggusDiccus said:


> Resistance is futile. I had the same dilemma but pulled the plug on this. I'm upgrading from a PTAE 7000U, which was a total bust
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I think you mean pulled the trigger, but anyway, I'm resisting for now and my current projector is also a Panny AE7000U...black projectors matter! :laugh: For me it's either the UBE or bust and since it's not on sale, I can wait for more feedback and will eagerly look forward to your review and comparison with the ole Panny.


----------



## ndabunka

mutiger said:


> I think you mean pulled the trigger, but anyway, I'm resisting for now and my current projector is also a Panny AE7000U...black projectors matter! :laugh: For me it's either the UBE or bust and since it's not on sale, I can wait for more feedback and will eagerly look forward to your review and comparison with the ole Panny.


the UBe's were/may still be on sale just like the non UBe models were (same discount amount)


----------



## rupedogg24

hatlesschimp said:


> Umm whats the first picture of?


I'll go with the torso of a butterfly.  

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

rupedogg24 said:


> I'll go with the torso of a butterfly.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


A photo from a mardi gras, perhaps?


----------



## robc1976

c.kingsley said:


> If you want an Oppo, you should wait until the UDP-203 is released. Otherwise you can get the Panasonic, Philips or Samsung players now. If you get the Samsung, make sure to update the firmware so it supports 4:2:2 output.


 great info thank you!


----------



## covsound1

hatlesschimp said:


> The X7000 is a beast! Its purely movies only though and sports can be distracting at times with motion. Definitely No gaming due to the image processes it has on board that delay the input response from pushing a button on the controller or keyboard or mouse to performing that action onscreen. I clocked it at 132ms in THX Mode the rest of the modes were 155ms or more. I recommend to anyone with a TV or Projector dont go above 50ms! Pc Gamers should not go over 30ms ideally the lower the number the better but in theory 16.7ms is the lowest input lag you can get at 60hz. This Epson clocks in at 29~30ms.
> 
> The JVC is clearly the King of blacks and native contrast! Its not something I can tell you about, you have to see it for yourself. I tried all I could to keep the X7000 and get a second hand PJ from someone online but couldn't stay in budget for the rest of the theatre room. I tried looking for decent second hang gaming capable PJ but couldn't find any cheap enough or in my state. The lad I sold the X7000 couldn't believe how good the image was when he came to pick it up. Of course I had the UHD version of Xmen: Apocalypse playing, turned the sound system up and he was like yep bag and tag it mate I will take it! I was the same too when I saw it! I had to have it. As he was leaving I said I will probably regret this and he said well its mine now with a laugh. But he meant it
> 
> But I had done the research on the tw9300/6040ub before the sale of the X7000 but hadn't seen one in person. I walked into my local store and turned it on and was happy to see a bright vibrant picture. The depth in the blacks wasnt there and the black scenes didnt go as dark black and also the top and bottom 2.35:1 bands at the top and bottom on the 16:9 screen were a dead giveaway too. I think I left the room to check on my kids running around the store or check on my wife and I came back a short time later after seeing the 4k sony and 1080p sony in another room and a kid of one of the workers there had his PlayStation or xbox hooked up to it and thats when I was like I need this now. If it the Epson was out at the time when I bought the JVC x7000 I would have bought the Epson still. its an all round projector and its a lot lighter too, That x7000 is a back breaker.
> 
> To me the JVC wouldn't be out of place in a real cinema. Its just so convincing the job it does and the eshift adds this lovely filmic look too, once again hard to explain but looks great and my wife even made the comment this is better than our local dodgy cinema. The Epson is very very good and 99.9% of the people on AVS would be more than happy with the image it produces. But its still a step behind the x7000 and x9000. To me it might only be 20% to 10% less in image quality - Ive thought about it a lot and it wouldn't be too far away from that! But I wouldn't pay the price difference now after seeing what the Epson can do and the features it has. Really its game changer and will force the other manufacturers to start dropping there prices or offer a more complete product for the same price. We the consumer finally have a win!
> 
> Hope this helps sorry for the long story, they tend to come out when its 2am and I'm knackered!
> 
> Im sorry but the video below is the only one I think I have of the JVC in action before I sold it, its very short with no sound! I was testing it in my new house I'm building. Also my other videos are a lot better lol, the Epson unboxing video link should pop up and take you too that as well and you can kind of see the difference but its not the same movie. I might have some more x7000 videos on my phone. BTW In the coming week I have a few new projectors and OLED 4K HDR TV I'm testing out so might be worth subbing to my channel lol.
> 
> https://youtu.be/3VuNAevHqNs


thanks a lot just getting in from work sorry for the late response! not only me it should help others too. very happy with my pj. love your speakers i owned a keff reference model 4 about 12 years back with old school adcom mosfet amps. talk about rich chocolate 3d sound.you are getting the best of sound and picture enjoy!!!


----------



## ndabunka

hatlesschimp said:


> Umm whats the first picture of?


What is the Thorax and Abdomen, Alex


----------



## Blue Bull

dotorg said:


> The power jack in the projector is, conveniently, in the dead center of the bottom of the projector, so its right at the top when hanging. As a result, you can get a very short cord in there -- mine's a 12" power cord, plugged into a power outlet that is about 5" back from the center point of the mount. The mount is bolted into a piece of blocking, and through a piece of strapping. The outlet box was also screwed to the blocking, so the center point of the outlet is less than 2" left of the centerpoint of the mount.
> 
> I'd originally positioned everything assuming I'd be using a 5030 -- the 5040 switch happened after everything was installed. Because its bigger, it'd be a little better if the outlet was an inch or inch and a half farther back, but anywhere near the center line and behind the mount by, say, 6-8" will be fine and keep it above the projector with a very short cord.


Greetings,

Mind if I get a link to where I can buy a shorter power cord? Thanks


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> the UBe's were/may still be on sale just like the non UBe models were (same discount amount)


The only post I've seen about UBes on sale was from a company that is NOT an authorized Epson dealer. Caveat emptor.


----------



## ndabunka

WynsWrld98 said:


> The only post I've seen about UBes on sale was from a company that is NOT an authorized Epson dealer. Caveat emptor.


It was an authorized dealer. I believe that sale ended Sunday.


----------



## Stecchino

To those 5040 owners who have a 16:9 screen, what practical advantage does the powered shift and memory features give you when you are watching 2.35:1 aspect ratio movies? 

I have an Epson HC 3500 now, and I just watch the 2.35:1 movies on the same 16:9 frame and deal with the gray bars. I'm missing some obvious advantage but am quite new to this. Is it only helpful when you have a 2.35:1 screen to avoid the manual adjustments switching between content?


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> It was an authorized dealer. I believe that sale ended Sunday.


Wrong re: you stating the 5040UBe was on sale from an authorized dealer. The person posted ABT.com had it on sale. See post #3294 and #3297 http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...b-6040ub-owners-thread-110.html#post48514329:

I called Epson and they confirmed ABT.com is NOT an authorized seller. You can also check Epson's website by plugging in their zip code (60025) and they don't show up there either. I know they were at one time but probably lost it due to this kind of shadiness.​


----------



## am2model3

Just spent some hours on the 5040. Epic! Rise of tomb raider is superb! 2500 lumens is blowing my eyes out coming from 1000 lumens, lol! My hdmi switcher dvdo edge 1.3 or 1.4 did not like talking to the 5040, going to try the linker tomorrow! Kind of an odd problem. 5040 talked to my game pc just fine. 
Details abound @2160p/60 4:2:0 8bit sdr!!


----------



## gnolivos

Stecchino said:


> To those 5040 owners who have a 16:9 screen, what practical advantage does the powered shift and memory features give you when you are watching 2.35:1 aspect ratio movies?
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Epson HC 3500 now, and I just watch the 2.35:1 movies on the same 16:9 frame and deal with the gray bars. I'm missing some obvious advantage but am quite new to this. Is it only helpful when you have a 2.35:1 screen to avoid the manual adjustments switching between content?




Here is how I use it. I shift the image down all the way leaving only one gray bar at the top. Then I pull down my simple masking system. I absolutely love it.


----------



## mutiger

ndabunka said:


> the UBe's were/may still be on sale just like the non UBe models were (same discount amount)


No authorized dealer had the UBEs for sale since they were apparently prevented from doing so by Epson. ABT.com is not authorized.


----------



## brianlvi3

Smarty-pants said:


> My advice would be, if you are not pressed or anxious to upgrade your display right now, you may be better off waiting.
> If you are planning to buy the Oppo UHD player, then I would wait until you have that, then check and see how good it works
> with your current display, then decide if you want to upgrade your display.
> By that time, prices may be lower or even new projectors hitting the market that might be something you like better.
> The emphasis here is on the Oppo player and how well it works with legacy displays.
> Remember there aren't very many UHD Blu-ray releases out there, not compared to the number of movies available in
> standard Blu-ray, so you have a lot of time before you need to put a large emphasis on 4K.
> This doesn't include the gaming genre though, but I'm not a big gamer, so don't have any advice in that realm.


Thanks so much SP. I am wondering how much better (or not) it would look because of the 4K conversion? In other words I already have the Marantz AV7702mkii (updrade over the AV7702), not hooked up yet. I am definitely all in on the new Oppo when it comes out (upgrade over the Oppo 103). Now the Epson 5020 vs. the 5040. So playing a standard bluray on one vs. the other one?


----------



## raviatuofu

mutiger said:


> No authorized dealer had the UBEs for sale since they were apparently prevented from doing so by Epson. ABT.com is not authorized.


ABT claims to be authorized dealer for Epson. Called them up just now 7AM Central and they pointed it on their website also. The person also said if they were not Epson authorized dealer, then they would not risk their entire operation by mentioning it on their website.
I will call epson also later today and clarify. 
Also, Adorama store[10011] doesn't not show up on epson site neither does B&H store[10001]. Both are authorized dealers for epsons.

I did take advantage of buying 5040 from ABT and if I find out ABT is not authorized  then will return projector or file fraud charges with CC.


----------



## mutiger

raviatuofu said:


> ABT claims to be authorized dealer for Epson. Called them up just now 7AM Central and they pointed it on their website also. The person also said if they were not Epson authorized dealer, then they would not risk their entire operation by mentioning it on their website.
> I will call epson also later today and clarify.
> Also, Adorama store[10011] doesn't not show up on epson site neither does B&H store[10001]. Both are authorized dealers for epsons.
> 
> I did take advantage of buying 5040 from ABT and if I find out ABT is not authorized  then will return projector or file fraud charges with CC.


Let us know what you find. I called Epson yesterday and they couldn't find any record of ABT being an authorized dealer, but I suspect they were looking it up using their same and possibly flawed web site. I dunno. I find it strange that ABT removed the UBE from their website yesterday (and it's still not there this morning). I also called ABT yesterday and they were still willing to let me order it at $200 off, but had no explanation for why it was removed. Something just didn't smell right and I wasn't willing to gamble. I feel pretty confident that even if they are authorized, they were absolutely not permitted to discount the UBEs, hence why the product was removed entirely from their web site.


----------



## Everdog

Is anyone able to watch Youtube 4K videos? I know they are are highly compressed, but I have a friend who has posted a lot of video to Youtube and I'd prefer watching them in fauxK.


When I tried with a Roku Ultra and also a Samsung UHD player, the projector said 4K, but the info from the Youtube app said "HD" and 1920x1080. There is no way that I can see to change the resolution that I can find. I think I have upscaling turned on on the projector, I haven't tried with that off and I can't see how it would matter.


----------



## MaximTre

fdny71 said:


> I saw there was a new firmware 1.08 available. Does anyone know what it includes?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Just updated.
I couldn't find any change.
I hoped I could change hdr default setting to 1 as someone stated it was in the works (just a rumor, I know), but there's no option for that.

Just a reminder, update is fine for european models too, I updated my tw9300w using the US file (and I guess all other regions too, but can't confirm).

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## Spyderturbo007

ndabunka said:


> There are ALWAYS going to be people doing bad reviews on the Internet.


I'm pretty sure the guy making that statement is with Epson and not some random guy doing a review.


----------



## Suppertime24

UBE's were on sale as my authorized dealer here in Atlanta called his Epson rep and asked if he was authorized to offer the sale price and Epson told him he could.


----------



## DireWolf08

Received 5040ub last night. Got it set up, aligned and projecting on to a temporary, makeshift screen. We watched a bunch of 1080p Blu-Ray content and holy cow! 

The picture is awesome and I don't even have my permanent screen solution or full light control in place yet! Even my wife, who has little to no interest in home theater stuff said, "This is awesome!" while we watched a Harry Potter movie. 

Not able to test any 4K or HDR yet, those are future upgrades. Lots more tweaking of the pj and room improvements left to do, but I am very pleased so far.


----------



## hatlesschimp

This video was a nightmare to edit. Shows some good stuff with Image Enhancement and the differences between 1080p and 4k content. Tried My best to convey this with my highend camera equipment!


----------



## mutiger

Suppertime24 said:


> UBE's were on sale as my authorized dealer here in Atlanta called his Epson rep and asked if he was authorized to offer the sale price and Epson told him he could.


All the major authorized online vendors did NOT have the UBEs on sale. ProjectorPeople.com claim they begged EPSON to let them reduce the price and were denied. Anyway, too late now. Epson clearly missed out on some sales.


----------



## ndabunka

mutiger said:


> No authorized dealer had the UBEs for sale since they were apparently prevented from doing so by Epson. ABT.com is not authorized.


OK, so apparently ABT was also discounting them as well. I did not buy one as I already had one but had I not already owned one, I would have bought through the authorized dealer that WAS offering it. I have ZERO interest in getting anyone in trouble.

Sigh... this is really NOT my fight so please stop dragging this out. Sorry that you or others may have missed whatever was available from where ever it may have been available for the brief period of time Perhaps they offered it and then got their hand slapped. Who knows. Who really cares here now after-the-fact. Just let it go PLEASE!


----------



## raviatuofu

mutiger said:


> Let us know what you find. I called Epson yesterday and they couldn't find any record of ABT being an authorized dealer, but I suspect they were looking it up using their same and possibly flawed web site. I dunno. I find it strange that ABT removed the UBE from their website yesterday (and it's still not there this morning). I also called ABT yesterday and they were still willing to let me order it at $200 off, but had no explanation for why it was removed. Something just didn't smell right and I wasn't willing to gamble. I feel pretty confident that even if they are authorized, they were absolutely not permitted to discount the UBEs, hence why the product was removed entirely from their web site.


Called Epson. I do not think they are aware of list of authorized online dealers.
The customer rep looks at Epson Find a dealer website and told me that B&H[10001], Adorama[10011], Crutchfield[22911] and ABT[60025] do not show up on their website so they are not authorized. 
I asked how come Best Buy near my house do not show up. 
She agreed and said there is a gap in the epson locate a dealer. 
I asked specifically if she has a list of Epson Authorized Internet Dealers. She had no clue of what I was talking about. 

In the end she said if the dealer says they are Epson Authorized Internet Dealer :laugh: then warranty will be honored.


----------



## NoTechi

*HDFury Linker experience*

I asked this already but I did not saw an answer (sorry if I overlooked it). Could someone with a HD Fury Linker share his experience in sense of noticeable picture quality difference with and without linker. I would be especially interested in the Epson Wireless, xbox and linker combination but I would be also interested in any other linker combination experiences.

NoTechi


----------



## Everdog

After playing around with setting on my receiver and projector I was finally able to get Ultra 4K videos working with the YouTube app on both the Roku Ultra and Samsung UHD player. Sadly, I have no clue which ones fixed my problem because it just started working. I turned back Image Enhancement on the Epson projector and it was still working so I know it was not that. It could be the problem is some of the videos were 60FPS. When I selected one that was 24 FPS and 4K it was the first one to work. The Epson reported it was 24 fps too. 

I am going to keep the Samsung and replace my 3D Blu-ray player. The old player was having problems with the wireless connection. It needed a connection up when it turns on in order to know that it can play 3D. But with the wireless connect it wasn't seeing it and then would not play 3D until it was powered off and on again with a wired connection. Very weird.


----------



## Toxic69

been reading trough some of this thread and my head is spinning, still cant decide if i want to spend the extra $1000 to get the 6040ub instead of the 5040ub


----------



## Dave Harper

Toxic69 said:


> been reading trough some of this thread and my head is spinning, still cant decide if i want to spend the extra $1000 to get the 6040ub instead of the 5040ub


In my opinion, the best thing you could do for your money is to get the UBe wireless version for its increased input capability, unless the black color is absolutely necessary for you. You could always just buy your own extended warranty and mount and then the new lamp when it's needed in a few years.


----------



## Toxic69

Dave Harper said:


> In my opinion, the best thing you could do for your money is to get the UBe wireless version for its increased input capability, unless the black color is absolutely necessary for you. You could always just buy your own extended warranty and mount and then the new lamp when it's needed in a few years.


putting aside the color, extra year warranty; mount and bulb what exactly is the driving difference between the 2 that made some of you purchase the 6040ub. i've been reading some extra processing and fine tuning options was that the reason? is that difference enough to make the leap?


----------



## Everdog

Toxic69 said:


> been reading trough some of this thread and my head is spinning, still cant decide if i want to spend the extra $1000 to get the 6040ub instead of the 5040ub


You should be able to negotiate the price down on the 6040UB.
I am like Dave Harper though. I went for the 5040UBE and the 50% greater bandwidth. Plus I don't have to worry about a bad 40 foot HDMI cable causing issues.


----------



## Toxic69

Everdog said:


> You should be able to negotiate the price down on the 6040UB.


really? was gonna put it on my BestBuy card and so no interest would they do negotiate


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> In my opinion, the best thing you could do for your money is to get the UBe wireless version for its increased input capability, unless the black color is absolutely necessary for you. You could always just buy your own extended warranty and mount and then the new lamp when it's needed in a few years.


So with the wireless version you don't need a HDMI? To bad its not battery operated, hate power cords because your always have to extend them lol!


----------



## Waikis

Has anyone here made an adjustment while HDR is on and then saved it into the memory?

My pj seems to lock up whenever I try to change profile from the one that I created without HDR on to the one created with HDR on.

Turning off the hdr first and then switch the profile doesnt seem to help either. It will still lock up the pj ie. Black screen and unresponsive until i unplug the power.


----------



## sddp

Waikis said:


> Has anyone here made an adjustment while HDR is on and then saved it into the memory?
> 
> My pj seems to lock up whenever I try to change profile from the one that I created without HDR on to the one created with HDR on.
> 
> Turning off the hdr first and then switch the profile doesnt seem to help either. It will still lock up the pj ie. Black screen and unresponsive until i unplug the power.






Did you update to the latest firmware?
I believe someone mentioned earlier that it fixed locking up memory or something like that.

Here's the link on Epsons site for instructions and the download for firmware version 1.08/1.04


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## Waikis

sddp said:


> Did you update to the latest firmware?
> I believe someone mentioned earlier that it fixed locking up memory or something like that.
> 
> Here's the link on Epsons site for instructions and the download for firmware version 1.08/1.04
> 
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805



Ah, I'll give that a go tonight. Cheers.


----------



## gnolivos

Waikis said:


> Ah, I'll give that a go tonight. Cheers.




Can u please update and try to reproduce the issue? Im interested in knowing whether the lockup problem is fixed. I've had it several times but could never consistently reproduce it.


----------



## dholmes54

Just ordered the 6040ub,its a blind buy but I had the 6020 and liked it and I'll be skipping a generation(6030) so I think I'll like that,time will tell.


----------



## WynsWrld98

sddp said:


> Did you update to the latest firmware?
> I believe someone mentioned earlier that it fixed locking up memory or something like that.
> 
> Here's the link on Epsons site for instructions and the download for firmware version 1.08/1.04
> 
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


Why in the world do they not include release notes on that page, so idiotic! They also should e-mail registered owners when a new firmware update is available vs. expecting people to remember to periodically check their website and/or troll forums like this. Such a simple thing to do!


----------



## BiggusDiccus

dvdwilly3 said:


> I don't think so. When I did the 105 upgrade on mine, the actual upgrade file was within a zipped file. When you unzip the zipped file, there are several files in several folders. And, once unzipped, that file was about 2 subfolders down.
> 
> 
> 
> The pj would not recognize the file at that level. It would not deal with it until I moved the file up to the root directory of the USB drive. As soon as I did that, it launched into thenupdate routine without any drama.




I use one of these for my VOIP Phone. It's worked perfectly. http://preview.*******.com/jsgohcj 

It works at a different layer so should make no difference to the port. Just make sure you have a strong signal. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## BiggusDiccus

BiggusDiccus said:


> I use one of these for my VOIP Phone. It's worked perfectly. http://preview.*******.com/jsgohcj
> 
> It works at a different layer so should make no difference to the port. Just make sure you have a strong signal.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Sorry that link trick didn't work. It's an iOGear Ethernet to Wireless bridge.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Toxic69 said:


> putting aside the color, extra year warranty; mount and bulb what exactly is the driving difference between the 2 that made some of you purchase the 6040ub. i've been reading some extra processing and fine tuning options was that the reason? is that difference enough to make the leap?



There's some extra ISF calibration settings in the menu of the 6040 to help calibrators like myself save settings. They're essentially the same as far as hardware though and I had no problems calibrating my 5040UBe. 



robc1976 said:


> So with the wireless version you don't need a HDMI? To bad its not battery operated, hate power cords because your always have to extend them lol!



You don't need a long HDMI to your projector from your equipment sources, just a short one from your sources to the wireless transmitter. The projector has the receiver built in and you select it just like any other input.


----------



## dholmes54

I'll probably have to get a new HDMI cable,mine is almost ten yes old,I guess I'll get a monoprice redmere


----------



## Everdog

robc1976 said:


> So with the wireless version you don't need a HDMI? To bad its not battery operated, hate power cords because your always have to extend them lol!


Not sure what are talking about. The Projector has the wireless connection built-in. You lose the pain in the rear HDMI cable making it easier to place the Projector.


----------



## ndabunka

Toxic69 said:


> putting aside the color, extra year warranty; mount and bulb what exactly is the driving difference between the 2 that made some of you purchase the 6040ub. i've been reading some extra processing and fine tuning options was that the reason? is that difference enough to make the leap?


Why would you "put aside" aspects that are components of the equation? That's like saying "Putting aside the ham and cheese, what did you think about the ham and cheese omelete I made you?". We would be justified in saying... Eggs


----------



## ndabunka

Everdog said:


> Not sure what are talking about. The Projector has the wireless connection built-in. You lose the pain in the rear HDMI cable making it easier to place the Projector.


He is saying that it would be nice not to have to run power to the unit because if it was battery operated you would not then need to run ANY cables to the projector. 

In other words, his use of LOL as a modfier at the end of his post indicates that ...drullroll please... He is JOKING!.


----------



## Toxic69

ndabunka said:


> Why would you "put aside" aspects that are components of the equation? That's like saying "Putting aside the ham and cheese, what did you think about the ham and cheese omelete I made you?". We would be justified in saying... Eggs


Lol Touché


----------



## robc1976

Everdog said:


> Not sure what are talking about. The Projector has the wireless connection built-in. You lose the pain in the rear HDMI cable making it easier to place the Projector.


I am totally new to projection, so you have a short HDMI cable going to your transmitor...how does that get a signal to your AVR/receiver?


----------



## cliffjrm

The manual shows says the UBU wireless transmitter needs to be in front of the projector.

Is anyone using it from behind or the side.

I like the UBE option but I'm going to have issues getting the transmitter from my receiver to anywhere near the front of the projector or near my screen.

Thanks!


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> There's some extra ISF calibration settings in the menu of the 6040 to help calibrators like myself save settings. They're essentially the same as far as hardware though and I had no problems calibrating my 5040UBe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't need a long HDMI to your projector from your equipment sources, just a short one from your sources to the wireless transmitter. The projector has the receiver built in and you select it just like any other input.


 okay that makes sense, I have to run a power cord full length anyway so might as well get the 6040ub. But its a awesome feature


----------



## aaranddeeman

raviatuofu said:


> In the end she said if the dealer says they are Epson Authorized Internet Dealer :laugh: then warranty will be honored.


Ok. So I am now Authorized Epson dealer.. Because I say so..


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I am totally new to projection, so you have a short HDMI cable going to your transmitor...how does that get a signal to your AVR/receiver?



Send the HDMI from your UHD source to the receiver. Then your receiver's HDMI output to the HDMI transmitter's input 1, 2 or 3. This way whatever your receiver switches to, it will send that to the projector just as if you had it wired instead. 



cliffjrm said:


> The manual shows says the UBU wireless transmitter needs to be in front of the projector.
> 
> Is anyone using it from behind or the side.
> 
> I like the UBE option but I'm going to have issues getting the transmitter from my receiver to anywhere near the front of the projector or near my screen.
> 
> Thanks!



I had mine on the side and was getting 100% signal strength. It's a radio signal like wifi and Bluetooth. It doesn't matter from what direction as long as you're within its distance limitations and and line of sight with no hard obstacles in between. 



robc1976 said:


> okay that makes sense, I have to run a power cord full length anyway so might as well get the 6040ub. But its a awesome feature



The whole point of the recommendation of the wireless option is because it accepts more input signal parameters than the wired version, so you get a two fold benefit here doing that. One, you don't have to run an HDMI cable and two, it will be more compatible with more source devices like the Xbox One S.


----------



## robc1976

ndabunka said:


> He is saying that it would be nice not to have to run power to the unit because if it was battery operated you would not then need to run ANY cables to the projector.
> 
> In other words, his use of LOL as a modfier at the end of his post indicates that ...drullroll please... He is JOKING!.


100% correct


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Send the HDMI from your UHD source to the receiver. Then your receiver's HDMI output to the HDMI transmitter's input 1, 2 or 3. This way whatever your receiver switches to, it will send that to the projector just as if you had it wired instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had mine on the side and was getting 100% signal strength. It's a radio signal like wifi and Bluetooth. It doesn't matter from what direction as long as you're within its distance limitations and and line of sight with no hard obstacles in between.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The whole point of the recommendation of the wireless option is because it accepts more input signal parameters than the wired version, so you get a two fold benefit here doing that. One, you don't have to run an HDMI cable and two, it will be more compatible with more source devices like the Xbox One S.


okay, that peaks my interest. I game and watch movies that is it. How is it more compatible with xbox S? I don't think the 5040ub supports HDR on xbox only 4k upscaling...I could be wrong.


----------



## robc1976

Total newb question here, how far back are these projectors usually on a 125" screen? Also, if anyone here has the epson ceiling mount how far does it hang down? Trying to plan things out. This screen is barely going to fit, depends how close to the ceiling I can put this screen, with frame the viewing screen would be 3" from ceiling, would that interfere with the projection?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> okay, that peaks my interest. I game and watch movies that is it. How is it more compatible with xbox S? *I don't think the 5040ub supports HDR on xbox only 4k upscaling...I could be wrong.*



It does for UHD Blurays using the wireless. You need to read up on this thread more for your answers. We can't rehash it all again here.


----------



## Threefiddie

Dave Harper said:


> It does for UHD Blurays using the wireless. You need to read up on this thread more for your answers. We can't rehash it all again here.


it still does 4k blurays wired. just not hdr.


----------



## robc1976

Threefiddie said:


> it still does 4k blurays wired. just not hdr.


I must have missed that, I thought the wired did HDR IN Bd but not in xbox? So the wired version does no HDR ON Bd? That's a game changer for sure, my only issue with the wired is the color (I am sure I can take casing off and paint if really needed) and wireless signal from my router, my room has 4 layers of drywal and 18" of concrete so signal may not be the best. I am sure it takes a lot of bandwith to play BD with a wireless option. Actually, wouldn't the PJ transmitor just send the signal...I am confused lol! 

So much info, read to many things.


----------



## ndabunka

robc1976 said:


> okay, that peaks my interest. I game and watch movies that is it. How is it more compatible with xbox S? I don't think the 5040ub supports HDR on xbox only 4k upscaling...I could be wrong.


Both the 5040 and the 6040 have the OPTION of purchase with the wireless transmitter. Those models are titled UBe (the e means wireless). In both models, that wireless option is a $300 increase in price. The non-wireless versions (5040UB & 6040UB) can not be "converted" to wireless at a later time as there is not any current after-market wireless option so you have to decide when you buy it if it is worth the extra $300 or not.

The wireless option DOES give slightly more bandwidth of signals into the projector. Since Xbox 1S has not been designed to accomodate more "typical" signals normally associated with movies (24 frames per second at specific bit rates), the Xbox one currently has some connectivity issues with this particular projector. Microsoft's logic is irrelavent but the point is that in order to use the XB1S effectively with this projector you basically HAVE to buy the $300 wireless option.


----------



## robc1976

I don't understand why a wireless version would do HDR in BD but wired won't? Its the same signal isn't it?


----------



## robc1976

ndabunka said:


> Both the 5040 and the 6040 have the OPTION of purchase with the wireless transmitter. Those models are titled UBe (the e means wireless). In both models, that wireless option is a $300 increase in price. The non-wireless versions (5040UB & 6040UB) can not be "converted" to wireless at a later time as there is not any current after-market wireless option so you have to decide when you buy it if it is worth the extra $300 or not.
> 
> The wireless option DOES give slightly more bandwidth of signals into the projector. Since Xbox 1S has not been designed to accomodate more "typical" signals normally associated with movies (24 frames per second at specific bit rates), the Xbox one currently has some connectivity issues with this particular projector. Microsoft's logic is irrelavent but the point is that in order to use the XB1S effectively with this projector you basically HAVE to buy the $300 wireless option.


I will for do go 6040ube then on color alone. Will the wireless work with xbox 1? I do no online gaming, no streaming but am connected to xbox live ECT.


----------



## k3nnis

Am I right in saying if buying the wireless version of the 5040/6040 we have best of both worlds? Ie we can have wireless and for whatever reason one day if we want to use wired we can also do that?

Also is there a table that shows what a wired and wireless 5040/6040 can output and with which devices? Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

robc1976 said:


> I must have missed that, I thought the wired did HDR IN Bd but not in xbox? So the wired version does no HDR ON Bd? That's a game changer for sure, my only issue with the wired is the color (I am sure I can take casing off and paint if really needed) and wireless signal from my router, my room has 4 layers of drywal and 18" of concrete so signal may not be the best. I am sure it takes a lot of bandwith to play BD with a wireless option. Actually, wouldn't the PJ transmitor just send the signal...I am confused lol!
> 
> So much info, read to many things.


See my other post above. There is no color difference between wired or wireless. The 5040UB ($2,999) & 6040UBs ($3,999) are wired versions. The 5040UBe ($3,299) & 6040UBe ($4,299) are the wireless versions.

These projectors support HDR & that is completely independent from the wired vs. wireless issue until... you tak specifically about 3rd-party devices (like the Xbox). As an example the equipment (Phillips BD player) in my signature all works perfectly FINE together and delivers 4K HDR at 24Hz signal (UHD specification) with no issues.

However, those with XB1S have to buy the wireless version due to Microsoft deciding to ONLY transmit a 60Hz signal (due to gaming needs). Why they don't offer the lower 24Hz UHD specification for UHD BD's is beyond the scope of this format


----------



## ndabunka

robc1976 said:


> I don't understand why a wireless version would do HDR in BD but wired won't? Its the same signal isn't it?


In the case of these units, you do get about 32.5% more bandwidth on the wireless units. That alone may justify the additional $300 costs. You won't get ALL the bandwidth possible so there are still numerous bandwidth models that still won't work. Accomodating all the possible bandwidth requirements may have been cost-prohibitive.

BD HDR standards are able to be transmitted using multiple signals as long as they are compliant with the specifications. This includes both 24Hz/30Hz/50Hz & 60Hz signals. UHD BD movies only require 24Hz signals but some online streaming sources only stream at 60Hz signals. We have the same issue with gaming consoles. Most games are done in 60Hz signals so Microsoft (and others) simply take the easy road and send UHD BD out at the higher bandwidth 60Hz signal which is what complicates things. The higher frequency, the more information and the more bandwidth is consumed by the signal.

HDR complicates this even more as there are chromas and bit rates that can be associated with how a pixel is populated on a screen. Prior to HDR nobody paid a whole lot of attention to the 4:4:4 or individual bitrates. The higher bit rate, the more bandwidth. The more saturated the Chroma, the more bandwidth is required.

Lots of people on this particular board are frustrated that Epson did not accomodate ALL POSSIBLE bandwidths. There was probably a justifyable financial reason that they did not accomodate all the badwidths. Doing so may have driven the cost of this projector beyond the market target. There are lots of reasons and all of them are embedded in this thread already so start by reading this forum post-by-post BACKWARDS so that you get the idea. Have fun!


----------



## robc1976

ndabunka said:


> See my other post above. There is no color difference between wired or wireless. The 5040UB ($2,999) & 6040UBs ($3,999) are wired versions. The 5040UBe ($3,299) & 6040UBe ($4,299) are the wireless versions.
> 
> These projectors support HDR & that is completely independent from the wired vs. wireless issue until... you tak specifically about 3rd-party devices (like the Xbox). As an example the equipment (Phillips BD player) in my signature all works perfectly FINE together and delivers 4K HDR at 24Hz signal (UHD specification) with no issues.
> 
> However, those with XB1S have to buy the wireless version due to Microsoft deciding to ONLY transmit a 60Hz signal (due to gaming needs). Why they don't offer the lower 24Hz UHD specification for UHD BD's is beyond the scope of this format


Okay that makes sense, I have question about your post, your talking about the 60hz signal for gaming needs and they don't have a 24hz signal for uhd BD is that the only connective issue? I will never use my XB1S for a bluray player, only for gaming. If the only connective issue is for BD compatibility I will get wired.

I was referring to the the 6040ube being black and the 5040ube being white.

I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this. A bit confused was a understatement...projection is a totally new world to me.


----------



## blackbelt

Ok I will get this 5040 delivered to me in the next day or two. So what 3d glasses do you all use. Do you order the epson ones or is there another brand that works as good.


----------



## robc1976

ndabunka said:


> In the case of these units, you do get about 32.5% more bandwidth on the wireless units. That alone may justify the additional $300 costs. You won't get ALL the bandwidth possible so there are still numerous bandwidth models that still won't work. Accomodating all the possible bandwidth requirements may have been cost-prohibitive.
> 
> BD HDR standards are able to be transmitted using multiple signals as long as they are compliant with the specifications. This includes both 24Hz/30Hz/50Hz & 60Hz signals. UHD BD movies only require 24Hz signals but some online streaming sources only stream at 60Hz signals. We have the same issue with gaming consoles. Most games are done in 60Hz signals so Microsoft (and others) simply take the easy road and send UHD BD out at the higher bandwidth 60Hz signal which is what complicates things. The higher frequency, the more information and the more bandwidth is consumed by the signal.
> 
> HDR complicates this even more as there are chromas and bit rates that can be associated with how a pixel is populated on a screen. Prior to HDR nobody paid a whole lot of attention to the 4:4:4 or individual bitrates. The higher bit rate, the more bandwidth. The more saturated the Chroma, the more bandwidth is required.
> 
> Lots of people on this particular board are frustrated that Epson did not accomodate ALL POSSIBLE bandwidths. There was probably a justifyable financial reason that they did not accomodate all the badwidths. Doing so may have driven the cost of this projector beyond the market target. There are lots of reasons and all of them are embedded in this thread already so start by reading this forum post-by-post BACKWARDS so that you get the idea. Have fun!


okay so its mainly a XB1S BD compatibility issue, nothing to really do with gaming itself. I will have a 4K blueray player so no need to use XB1S as one. I wish I new 1/2 what you do lol

Sadly I don't, so onto reading, I have been reading do many things about screens, projectors ect it gets scrambled.

Appreciate the info


----------



## blackbelt

Or is no one using 3d anymore?


----------



## ndabunka

blackbelt said:


> Ok I will get this 5040 delivered to me in the next day or two. So what 3d glasses do you all use. Do you order the epson ones or is there another brand that works as good.





blackbelt said:


> Or is no one using 3d anymore?


This has already been "beat to death" & the details are already here in this thread and/or ones like it. Just search this thread for 3d glasses.


----------



## robc1976

I am guessing with XBOX Scorpio you will needed wireless version for HDR gaming or no?


----------



## k3nnis

I remember someone posted a table with what the wired and wireless version can support in terms of chroma sampling and Hz and resolution. Can someone so kindly provide me the post? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

robc1976 said:


> Sadly I don't, so onto reading...
> Appreciate the info


I assume you meant to say "I am not SO into reading"..correct. If so, you learn from reading and you HAD to read to get to this point. Did you mean to say that you don't understand how to SEARCH on this site? if so, you don't even have to search. You can simply read the prior post in reverse order. Good luck. I am headed to sleep


----------



## evoZip

blackbelt said:


> Or is no one using 3d anymore?


http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-battery-operated-3d-glasses-black/4618005.p?skuId=4618005

I just purchased these and they paired immediately and worked perfectly fine. I wish they lenses were a little larger...but they are lightweight and I didn't see anything else anywhere near that price.


----------



## ndabunka

k3nnis said:


> I remember someone posted a table with what the wired and wireless version can support in terms of chroma sampling and Hz and resolution. Can someone so kindly provide me the post? Thanks
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Enough "spoon feeding" for me for one night. We are all grown ups here. There are tools in place here for finding such things VERY easily. Just scroll back or search


----------



## k3nnis

ndabunka said:


> Enough "spoon feeding" for me for one night. Just scroll back or search




Ok thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## blackbelt

evoZip said:


> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-battery-operated-3d-glasses-black/4618005.p?skuId=4618005
> 
> I just purchased these and they paired immediately and worked perfectly fine. I wish they lenses were a little larger...but they are lightweight and I didn't see anything else anywhere near that price.


Hey thanks for the info I will look at these.


----------



## robc1976

ndabunka said:


> I assume you meant to say "I am not SO into reading"..correct. If so, you learn from reading and you HAD to read to get to this point. Did you mean to say that you don't understand how to SEARCH on this site? if so, you don't even have to search. You can simply read the prior post in reverse order. Good luck. I am headed to sleep


I meant I "don't know 1/2 what you do" so onto reading...going to read every page


----------



## robc1976

Still reading all this thread, told wife I was going to get the wirless version and she is against it because of internet service "charter sucks". When playing a blueray with the wireless its not really streaming the blueray is it? I thought it is just sending a HDMI signal wich has nothing to do with our internet signal....am I wrong here? She is worried of internet going down while watching a movie ect.


----------



## Savatage316

Question guys, it's really driving me nuts. With ps4 pro hdr, games like ffxv and uncharted have options to turn on hdr. When I do I get a pink screen... What am I missing?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Im planning to buy Onkyo receiver TX-RZ710. Thought to ask just to be sure, should I expect any issues to handle 4K/HDR with the Epson ? it says it does support 4K/HDR but not sure with all the 10/12 bits, 2020, 30/60fps specs


----------



## NoTechi

*Wireless sync*

Is someone else experience initial wireless sync problems? On startup or if switch a source like the xbox and my media player pc it sometimes takes multiple attempts for the wireless connection to connect. Same sometimes if I switch from within one device to a different resolution. This is pretty annoying. Good thing is once the connection is established it is total stable.

Distance between wireless box and projector is around 3m and it's from front/site with nothing in between. I am thinking that other wireless devices might have an influence on the initial sync. Is there a way to change the channels the wireless is using?

NoTechi


----------



## Waikis

gnolivos said:


> Can u please update and try to reproduce the issue? Im interested in knowing whether the lockup problem is fixed. I've had it several times but could never consistently reproduce it.


Updated my fw and it is still not fixed. Sigh.


----------



## Dandlj

Ronman79 said:


> If that were the norm, I wouldn't say this.... But.... Do the rest of us mainstays here a favor, and if you aren't going to be helpful, just don't comment. I'm tired of reading your condescending remarks to most anyone you respond to. Are you really not aware that you do this??? Heck, I remember before realizing this of you that I PM'd you one night, after you'd gotten your Epson, to ask for advice. I was trying to help a friend set up an Epson and the Samsung player. You replied promptly, saying, "If you read my signature, you'll see that I don't have the Samsung"............... I took this with a grain of salt, thinking surely this wasn't intentional, and not a big deal... Get over yourself, and by they way, if you want to be helpful, point me to an official link of this black, wireless "6040UBE" you're telling everyone about. And, too bad the fellow below doesn't realize he was only one of the latest victims... He was freaking complimenting you on your "knowledge"......
> 
> To everyone else, I'm sorry for the rant! Goodnight.




As an avid reader of this thread the 2 most common questions seem to be 1) Xbox s 2) 3D glasses.

The problem is with tons of posts per day it's easy to loose sight of the answers. Shame there isn't a better way.

I agree with you, the best way currently is either to tell someone to go search, or be nice and ping back an answer or link


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rjguk

robc1976 said:


> Still reading all this thread, told wife I was going to get the wirless version and she is against it because of internet service "charter sucks". When playing a blueray with the wireless its not really streaming the blueray is it? I thought it is just sending a HDMI signal wich has nothing to do with our internet signal....am I wrong here? She is worried of internet going down while watching a movie ect.


The wireless in this case is not your wireless router, it is a little box that comes with the ube versions that allows the HDMI signal from your source/amp to be transmitted to the projector without having an HDMI cable between the two. It should work irrespective of the state of your ISP's quality of service*

*Unless you are trying to stream Netflix or Amazon video, in which case your wife is correct


----------



## robc1976

rjguk said:


> The wireless in this case is not your wireless router, it is a little box that comes with the ube versions that allows the HDMI signal from your source/amp to be transmitted to the projector without having an HDMI cable between the two. It should work irrespective of the state of your ISP's quality of service*
> 
> *Unless you are trying to stream Netflix or Amazon video, in which case your wife is correct


 you just saved me tons of time, couldn't find the answer. I don't stream anything in my theater, only blueray and gaming. 

Earlier in this thread (page 7-8) trying to read everything....says wireless version didn't have a on screen menu, this isnt correct is it? I can't see how it would be but wabt to be 100% sure.

Thanks for the info!


----------



## hatlesschimp

Dandlj said:


> As an avid reader of this thread the 2 most common questions seem to be 1) Xbox s 2) 3D glasses.
> 
> The problem is with tons of posts per day it's easy to loose sight of the answers. Shame there isn't a better way.
> 
> I agree with you, the best way currently is either to tell someone to go search, or be nice and ping back an answer or link
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Like you i had someone tell me what to get and i lost the page. Im going to buy them this week and test. I know i was very happy with 3d on the benq w1080st that i used to have in the bedroom. 100" 3d in the bedroom lol. Ahhh the time before i had two kids under 2!


----------



## dvdwilly3

hatlesschimp said:


> Like you i had someone tell me what to get and i lost the page. Im going to buy them this week and test. I know i was very happy with 3d on the benq w1080st that i used to have in the bedroom. 100" 3d in the bedroom lol. Ahhh the time before i had two kids under 2!


I bought the cheaper Samsungs at BB for $20...

But, I then ordered the 3D Active from Amazon. They were around $40 each. The lenses are larger, they are rechargable and they fit better over regular glasses. 

AND, they seem to work better. I don't know enough about crosstalk and other issues in 3D. I can just tell you that the image appeared clearer and the 3D effect seemed better defined to me.

Now, I have 4 pair of the 3D Active and 2 of the Samsung.


----------



## turbonut

Ronman79 said:


> If that were the norm, I wouldn't say this.... But.... Do the rest of us mainstays here a favor, and if you aren't going to be helpful, just don't comment. I'm tired of reading your condescending remarks to most anyone you respond to. Are you really not aware that you do this??? Heck, I remember before realizing this of you that I PM'd you one night, after you'd gotten your Epson, to ask for advice. I was trying to help a friend set up an Epson and the Samsung player. You replied promptly, saying, "If you read my signature, you'll see that I don't have the Samsung"............... I took this with a grain of salt, thinking surely this wasn't intentional, and not a big deal... Get over yourself, and by they way, if you want to be helpful, point me to an official link of this black, wireless "6040UBE" you're telling everyone about. And, too bad the fellow below doesn't realize he was only one of the latest victims... He was freaking complimenting you on your "knowledge"......
> 
> To everyone else, I'm sorry for the rant! Goodnight.



Completely agreed.


----------



## aaranddeeman

robc1976 said:


> Still reading all this thread, told wife I was going to get the wirless version and she is against it because of internet service "charter sucks". When playing a blueray with the wireless its not really streaming the blueray is it? I thought it is just sending a HDMI signal wich has nothing to do with our internet signal....am I wrong here? She is worried of internet going down while watching a movie ect.


Wireless HDMI and internet are two entirely different things. Don't get confused.
Your internet going down will impact only if you were streaming movie from internet (and not if watching movie from a disk)


----------



## aaranddeeman

ana_moo_ana said:


> Im planning to buy Onkyo receiver TX-RZ710. Thought to ask just to be sure, should I expect any issues to handle 4K/HDR with the Epson ? it says it does support 4K/HDR but not sure with all the 10/12 bits, 2020, 30/60fps specs


As long as it supports HDCP2.2, you should be good.


----------



## aaranddeeman

robc1976 said:


> you just saved me tons of time, couldn't find the answer. I don't stream anything in my theater, only blueray and gaming.
> 
> Earlier in this thread (page 7-8) trying to read everything....says wireless version didn't have a on screen menu, this isnt correct is it? I can't see how it would be but wabt to be 100% sure.
> 
> Thanks for the info!


It's very simple. 
Wireless version = everything wired version gives (minus the HDMI cable running from player/AVR to PJ and plus some extra bandwidth)


----------



## Lucidthinker

Snoogleheimer said:


> Hey guys, please help me understand. I will be getting a 2.31:1 screen. Now, the way I understand it, when I go back and forth from a 2.31:1 movie and back to 16:9 cable TV, with the 5030ub, I will need to manually readjust the picture each time to fit the screen, and, with the 5040ub, it will remember each setting so I can immediately change from 2.31:1 to 16:9 with the remote. Do I understand this correctly?


Yes. This unit has motorized lens for zoom, focus, and shift with lens memory. So, at a touch of a button you can switch from 2.35 to 16.9.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

aaranddeeman said:


> As long as it supports HDCP2.2, you should be good.




it does! thanks a lot


----------



## dotorg

ndabunka said:


> Why they don't offer the lower 24Hz UHD specification for UHD BD's is beyond the scope of this format


As people have said repeatedly, it does. The issue is it outputs 2160P /24hz at 10-bit 4:4:4, not 4:2:0. That's why it works with the UBe and not the UB. If it was at 60fps, 10-bit, even at 4:2:0 it wouldn't work on the UBe.

https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/4k-on-xbox-one-s-technical-requirements

That's the requirements. 

That's unlike the Chromecast Ultra, as an example, which forces *all* output to 50 or 60 @ 2160P and can't work with HDR on the 5040/6040 at all.


----------



## gnolivos

Waikis said:


> Updated my fw and it is still not fixed. Sigh.




Could you please call Epson support and open a ticket on this issue? Explain to them how to reproduce the problem. I've been working with them for the past couple of months to get this resolved, and they said they had a fix. I had assumed they included it in this firmware update.

Anyway, please make sure you call to get this resolved. They're working hard at fixing this!


----------



## Threefiddie

robc1976 said:


> I am guessing with XBOX Scorpio you will needed wireless version for HDR gaming or no?


noone knows a single thing about what scorpio will output. if it's anything like one s you'll never hdr game on this projector.



blackbelt said:


> Or is no one using 3d anymore?


well it is dead practically.



Savatage316 said:


> Question guys, it's really driving me nuts. With ps4 pro hdr, games like ffxv and uncharted have options to turn on hdr. When I do I get a pink screen... What am I missing?



well you can't do hdr with ps4 pro or xbox one s and this projector... so probably why.


----------



## robc1976

aaranddeeman said:


> Wireless HDMI and internet are two entirely different things. Don't get confused.
> Your internet going down will impact only if you were streaming movie from internet (and not if watching movie from a disk)


its what I thought but wanted 100% confirmation


----------



## Savatage316

Threefiddie said:


> well you can't do hdr with ps4 pro or xbox one s and this projector... so probably why.


So it's confirmed that pro and Xbox S can not and will not do hdr? Is it on their side of the ball to Fix that?


----------



## Threefiddie

Savatage316 said:


> So it's confirmed that pro and Xbox S can not and will not do hdr? Is it on their side of the ball to Fix that?


right. pro can do hdr at 2k that's it but sony and ms would both have to patch in a less bandwidth version for it to happen and work. considering the hdr tv's support the highest implementation of hdr that's what these consoles output. it's both epson and sony/ms fault. epson could have put bigger bandwidth hdmi chip it to support highest level of hdr but they didn't. 

Projector's are such a niche market don't count on ms/sony to come to the rescue either.


----------



## hatlesschimp

I cant talk about 4k HDR on projectors because Im yet to see it in it full glory properly other than dark images. 
I must admit I hadnt looked at the new TVs for a while and earlier in the year I walked past a few oleds with hdr and thought wow tvs have taken another leap good for them! So have TVs found themselves a new 3D or 4k to help drive sales. Whats next? 
Still infancy with all this stuff. Next year will be a better year for HDR. Hopefully Epson do a trade in deal with the 5040/6040 for the 5050/6050. Doubt we will see it in 2017 though (5050 LOL😀).


----------



## Everdog

Ashma said:


> Actually went with the 5040ub because it was white. Could have a good dealer discount on the 6040 but chose the 5040 due to the color. It worked better with our white ceilings and WAF.



My theater room has one section of the ceiling near the screen that my wife allowed me to paint a dark color with flat paint. The rest is higher and is still white. My old Epson 3010 was white too and I built a white 16 inch shelf for it to match the ceiling, and I always thought it looked pretty good. I too went with the 5040 because I though it looked better. I was worried that it would not fit on the 16 inch shelf but it actually fits better than the smaller 3010. This is because the 5040 has recessed ports and so the plug doesn't stick out 2 inches in the back when plugged in.


----------



## Everdog

robc1976 said:


> I am guessing with XBOX Scorpio you will needed wireless version for HDR gaming or no?



You can bet all future gaming systems will require MORE bandwidth. The 5040ube has 50% more than the 5040ub. People might be able to get the 5050ub to work with future products, but it might not be pretty.


----------



## Everdog

NoTechi said:


> Is someone else experience initial wireless sync problems? On startup or if switch a source like the xbox and my media player pc it sometimes takes multiple attempts for the wireless connection to connect. Same sometimes if I switch from within one device to a different resolution. This is pretty annoying. Good thing is once the connection is established it is total stable.
> 
> Distance between wireless box and projector is around 3m and it's from front/site with nothing in between. I am thinking that other wireless devices might have an influence on the initial sync. Is there a way to change the channels the wireless is using?
> 
> NoTechi


I've noticed when the resolution changes the screen goes blank and it appears to disconnect and re-establish the wireless connection. It is annoying, but I can live with it. 
I replaced my 3D Blu-ray player because of this. It needed the connection established when it turned on in order to play 3D movies. If the proper connection was not there, it was impossible to recognize one until the player was turned off and on and a proper connection was seen (which with the wireless never happened because it turns off and on when switching components).


I have seen mine take more than one attempt too. It will briefly say no input or connection. I'll pay more attention next time and see if it always happens in certain situations.


----------



## MississippiMan

Threefiddie said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *blackbelt*
> _Or is no one using 3d anymore?_
> 
> 
> well it is dead practically.


That would come as shocking news to all my Customers who are rockin' back, enjoying 3D Titles on their Panny 8000s', the Epson 5030s' and the new 5040UB

3D done right, in a wholly immersive way. is more incredible than it has ever been. Of course one does have to "want" to watch it, and yeah, a lot of FP purists eschew doing so. But the present & future belongs to the masses, and the masses are voting with their wallets.

I think the recent spate of 3D naysayers on this Forum are due to the TV mfgs leaving 3D off the newer SUHD-TVs for cost reasons. Myself, I own a Samsung UN55F9000 and it's 3D is pretty fantastic (dependent upon content) The 3D titles out there have come a long way since 2014, both quality and availability wise. Projection Oriented 3D is driving the need and desire for more Titles all the time. 

And when 3D is shown on a 140" - 165" screen with one sitting 10' back....immersive is a gross understatement. *To drive this Post squarely "On Topic"*...I've seen the 5040ube pumping out 3D at 165"s and it's flat out mind blowing.

That all said, comments alluding to 3D being "Dead" are just patently false. Or put another way; "The reports of 3D's death have been greatly exaggerated."


----------



## Threefiddie

well when they aren't releasing new movies or very few in 3d... i mean that says it and the fact they aren't being filmed with 3d cameras and most are conversions. It's not really even being supported by movie studios anymore except for some animated movies or most cgi dominate movies like TMNT. Higher ticket price and higher 3d blu ray price with a high cost to entry for tv's couple years ago certainly didn't help it


----------



## rogermoore123

Savatage316 said:


> So it's confirmed that pro and Xbox S can not and will not do hdr? Is it on their side of the ball to Fix that?


It is not the ps4pro or xboxones that has a problem.
They both output at the current hdmi spec - 18Gbps.
The epson only supports a max of 10.2Gbps. The wireless only accepts slightly higher signal of 24p 4.4.4 10/12bit then down converts to 4.2.2 to match non-wireless spec.
This projector will not do the current native 4k60p HDR streams without being down converted first.
The xboxones and ps4pro gaming output also has to be turned down to a reduced color and bitrate setting for the epson to work.
After following this thread from the start I'm happy to keep running my old epson with the ps4pro.

Like many other people on this thread are thinking - can the new posters please try and read from the start.
The same questions have been asked and answered multiple times. ☺


----------



## MississippiMan

Threefiddie said:


> well when they aren't releasing new movies or very few in 3d... i mean that says it and the fact they aren't being filmed with 3d cameras and most are conversions. It's not really even being supported by movie studios anymore except for some animated movies or most cgi dominate movies like TMNT.


That is far too much a blanket statement to be valid. And it is not supported by facts, as it will be impossible for you to show a single Industry statement to back any of the highlighted statements up.

Only particular movies are released in 3D, and yes, most all of those are usually Action Epics or CGI. Considering how many non-cartoon Action Epics are in fact released in 3D, (...virtually all...) I cannot feel how you can state the genre is dead. Just because newer movies similar to Sleepless in Seattle and the like are not filmed / released in 3D does not write the epitaph for 3D.

You sound like your a proclaimed non-advocate of 3D, (...I note your selling your own 3D outfit...) so perhaps that is what drives your comments. Maybe not. Myself, I take it for what it's worth to the entertainment value for people who like 3D. (...and let's not forget Gamers! ) All others need not weigh in on the matter...if for no other reason than arguments' sake.


----------



## Threefiddie

not at all. I used to be a huge 3d fan until the support for it went down the drain in games, movies, and 3dtv channels are non-existent. I've had 3d since it hit the consumer market on both pc and tv's/projectors. Hell I got 3 3d 65" tv's (one that is 4k hdr) in the house, 3 27" 1440p monitors that are 3d, and 134" screen for it but it's all about useless to me since support has nearly fallen off a cliff.

Gaming has all abandoned 3d too in both pc and consoles. the list goes on when you add broadcast 3dtv is gone and dwindling amount of 3d blu rays.

but free to come to whatever conclusion we both want but the thing on people's minds in both in home and theaters is not 3d in almost 2017. it's 4k, hdr, and overall picture quality.

and only reason I am selling my current 1080p 3d projector is because I want 4k or fauxk but the 3d support is certainly last on the list this day and age.

I get my true 3d fix with oculus rift and psvr anyways.


----------



## rogermoore123

Supported Epson 4k signals :

https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H714020~faq-300693


----------



## Savatage316

But 1080p should output 2k hdr correct? That's what I'm confused about is if I set my ps4 to 1080p I still can't get hdr.


----------



## hatlesschimp

HTC Vive ftw!


----------



## Suppertime24

Anybody ever bought from AudioVideoNation.com?


I guess they are a reseller so does that void the manufacturers warranty?


----------



## mutiger

robc1976 said:


> I was referring to the the 6040ube being black and the 5040ube being white.


I didn't know there even was a 6040 UBE.


----------



## robc1976

mutiger said:


> I didn't know there even was a 6040 UBE.


I thought there was, someone mentioned the 6040ub came in wireless...I am not seeing it anywhere. That sucks, why wouldn't they make that model in wireless? Really want the black case and ceiling mount. I guess you can vinyl wrap the 5040ube and I am sure they have a mount for it.


----------



## dimi123

Threefiddie said:


> well when they aren't releasing new movies or very few in 3d... i mean that says it and the fact they aren't being filmed with 3d cameras and most are conversions. It's not really even being supported by movie studios anymore except for some animated movies or most cgi dominate movies like TMNT. Higher ticket price and higher 3d blu ray price with a high cost to entry for tv's couple years ago certainly didn't help it


Couldn't disagree more. The number of 3D movies released theatrically has remained steady for the last 6 years. It varies between 40-47 titles per year. Support for 3D Blu-ray has also not dwindled. Every movie shown theatrically in 3D is also released in 3D on Blu-ray (at least in Europe). My collection of 3D titles consists of exactly 233 Blu-ray's (Movies, Animations, Documentaries, Concerts).


----------



## robc1976

rogermoore123 said:


> It is not the ps4pro or xboxones that has a problem.
> They both output at the current hdmi spec - 18Gbps.
> The epson only supports a max of 10.2Gbps. The wireless only accepts slightly higher signal of 24p 4.4.4 10/12bit then down converts to 4.2.2 to match non-wireless spec.
> This projector will not do the current native 4k60p HDR streams without being down converted first.
> The xboxones and ps4pro gaming output also has to be turned down to a reduced color and bitrate setting for the epson to work.
> After following this thread from the start I'm happy to keep running my old epson with the ps4pro.
> 
> Like many other people on this thread are thinking - can the new posters please try and read from the start.
> The same questions have been asked and answered multiple times. ☺


I am 1/2 way done with thread, lot of great info but all the info I have read thus far is its not compatible with the 60hz signal so uhd will not work ect. Does this effect normal gaming at all? I will for sure go with ube for more bandwith but just want to be sure I can normal game (non-online) on xbox 1 and xbox1s. Don't care if it is HDR, 4k is fine.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Savatage316 said:


> But 1080p should output 2k hdr correct? That's what I'm confused about is if I set my ps4 to 1080p I still can't get hdr.




my understanding from the owner feedback is that there should be no issues outputting 1080p/HDR with this projector.


----------



## exm

robc1976 said:


> I thought there was, someone mentioned the 6040ub came in wireless...I am not seeing it anywhere. That sucks, why wouldn't they make that model in wireless? Really want the black case and ceiling mount. I guess you can vinyl wrap the 5040ube and I am sure they have a mount for it.


The 6040UB is for installers. I assume most installers use actual wires.


----------



## sddp

WynsWrld98 said:


> Why in the world do they not include release notes on that page, so idiotic! They also should e-mail registered owners when a new firmware update is available vs. expecting people to remember to periodically check their website and/or troll forums like this. Such a simple thing to do!








Um... I think what you meant to say is why would they advertise HDR when 2 of the LARGEST gaming systems on earth (PS4 Pro and XBOX One S) won't work with HDR.. Now that's idiotic


When I first heard about this Epson 4K shift and HDR. I assumed it was...well... full %HDR and that HDR players would work. I had NO IDEA there was a catch 22 or trade offs, or pros and cons, or incompatible issues.


Back in the day when I bought a 1080P HDTV and a Blu Ray player and a Blu Ray Movie. They all worked. ALL THE TIME. Any and all Blu Ray movies played on ALL of my 1080P HDTVs all the time %100. No catch 22, no trade offs.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

did anyone try 1080p/HDR combo on normal PS4 (not pro)?


----------



## dataJunkie

ana_moo_ana said:


> my understanding from the owner feedback is that there should be no issues outputting 1080p/HDR with this projector.


PS4 Pro works fine with HDR @ 1080P. Tested with Ratchet and Clank and TLOU and all was good.

Non HDR outputs at 3160 ... faux-k .. so all good there too.


----------



## mutiger

exm said:


> The 6040UB is for installers. I assume most installers use actual wires.


Yea, there's no 6040UBE. Thanks for sending me on a wild goose chase. Normally I would never consider wireless either, but the added bandwidth and additional inputs absolutely make it worth considering. Also, I spoke with a Pro dealer and Epson is supposedly coming out with another version of the 6040, but the only change is that it will come in, and I kid you not...WHITE. The 5040 on the other hand will remain in white only. Gee, thanks Epson for giving us what nobody has been asking for.


----------



## robc1976

mutiger said:


> Yea, there's no 6040UBE. Thanks for sending me on a wild goose chase. Normally I would never consider wireless either, but the added bandwidth and additional inputs absolutely make it worth considering. Also, I spoke with a Pro dealer and Epson is supposedly coming out with another version of the 6040, but the only change is that it will come in, and I kid you not...WHITE. The 5040 on the other hand will remain in white only. Gee, thanks Epson for giving us what nobody has been asking for.


I can't handle a white case in my completely dark theater. I really want the exta bandwith and black case and the extra warranty is nice. The extra bulb I could careless about.

This sucks, don't know if HDR on uhd BD on XB1S is worth the sacrifice for me. Might just get a wired 6040UB, get a Phillips player which does HDR/4K BD and just play XB1S @ 4K. The extra bandwidth is nice but so is the black case, extra warranty and mount. I don't stream anything, just play games and watch BD.


----------



## mutiger

robc1976 said:


> I can't handle a white case in my completely dark theater. I really want the exta bandwith and black case and the extra warranty is nice. The extra bulb I could careless about.
> 
> This sucks, don't know if HDR on uhd BD on XB1S is worth the sacrifice for me. Might just get a wired 6040UB, get a Phillips player which does HDR/4K BD and just play XB1S @ 4K. The extra bandwidth is nice but so is the black case, extra warranty and mount. I don't stream anything, just play games and watch BD.


The dealer I spoke with also mentioned Epson is fully aware of the current limitations of these projectors and she thinks they are working to remedy the situation ASAP. As to what that remedy would be is anybody's guess but I can't imagine a hardware change-out. If I were guessing I would suspect they'll update the firmware to accept any and all 4k inputs and then downgrade it internally, but I really have no clue. This dealer could also very well be blowing smoke up my hind quarters. I won't believe anything unless there's an official announcement.


----------



## exm

robc1976 said:


> I can't handle a white case in my completely dark theater. I really want the exta bandwith and black case and the extra warranty is nice. The extra bulb I could careless about.
> 
> This sucks, don't know if HDR on uhd BD on XB1S is worth the sacrifice for me. Might just get a wired 6040UB, get a Phillips player which does HDR/4K BD and just play XB1S @ 4K. The extra bandwidth is nice but so is the black case, extra warranty and mount. I don't stream anything, just play games and watch BD.


If anything sell the bulb...


----------



## Dave Harper

Threefiddie said:


> it still does 4k blurays wired. just not hdr.



Agreed, but he was just asking about HDR, so that's what I was referring to:



robc1976 said:


> okay, that peaks my interest. I game and watch movies that is it. How is it more compatible with xbox S? * I don't think the 5040ub supports HDR on xbox *only 4k upscaling...I could be wrong.


----------



## robc1976

gnolivos said:


> That's it. Your problem right there. You must not angle it! Project straight perpendicular to screen. Remove keystone entirely. Then use lens shift. Done.


 since you seem to know about setup you would be the one to ask, how close to a ceiling can the viewing screen be, I need every available inch I can get.


----------



## robc1976

mutiger said:


> The dealer I spoke with also mentioned Epson is fully aware of the current limitations of these projectors and she thinks they are working to remedy the situation ASAP. As to what that remedy would be is anybody's guess but I can't imagine a hardware change-out. If I were guessing I would suspect they'll update the firmware to accept any and all 4k inputs and then downgrade it internally, but I really have no clue. This dealer could also very well be blowing smoke up my hind quarters. I won't believe anything unless there's an official announcement.


 totally agree, its great info though. I don't think they can fix the xbox HDR issue so they should at least offer a 6040ube for people like us who want a bkack case and wireless, I would pay the extra $300 on top of the extra $1000 for it. Its worth it, your going to have this piece of equipment in your room for years, needs to be the way you want it. My buddy who does a dry viny might make a vinyl wrap for it. Probaly sell the heck out of them in this thread lol!


----------



## hatlesschimp

Everdog said:


> My theater room has one section of the ceiling near the screen that my wife allowed me to paint a dark color with flat paint. The rest is higher and is still white. My old Epson 3010 was white too and I built a white 16 inch shelf for it to match the ceiling, and I always thought it looked pretty good. I too went with the 5040 because I though it looked better. I was worried that it would not fit on the 16 inch shelf but it actually fits better than the smaller 3010. This is because the 5040 has recessed ports and so the plug doesn't stick out 2 inches in the back when plugged in.


The next day after my Wife (AKA The Boss) & I had attended the colour and selections meeting with our house builder I gave them a call and said make the front wall & ceiling black in the theater room lol. My wife is yet to see it! They started painting last week. I think I might wear my sneakers & do some stretches to make sure I'm nimble before I take her in to see it. 😀
The builder gave me the air vents to paint black too. No sure how to tackle it so I can still move the louvers.
Entrance


----------



## Everdog

robc1976 said:


> totally agree, its great info though. I don't think they can fix the xbox HDR issue so they should at least offer a 6040ube for people like us who want a bkack case and wireless, I would pay the extra $300 on top of the extra $1000 for it. Its worth it, your going to have this piece of equipment in your room for years, needs to be the way you want it. My buddy who does a dry viny might make a vinyl wrap for it. Probaly sell the heck out of them in this thread lol!



I hope that won't be a heat blanket. Don't cover the air vents too.


I don't see what the big deal is. Where are you placing the projector? Mine is behind the audience/seats and I could easily add a black wall with a hole to my shelf to hide it. But when seated you can't see it, so there is no reason.


----------



## BiggusDiccus

Holy **** snacks! Look at the size difference between the Epson and the Panasonic PTAE7000.










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Everdog

hatlesschimp said:


> The next day after my Wife (AKA The Boss) & I had attended the colour and selections meeting with our house builder I gave them a call and said make the front wall & ceiling black in the theater room lol. My wife is yet to see it! They started painting last week. I think I might wear my sneakers & do some stretches to make sure I'm nimble before I take her in to see it. 😀
> The builder gave me the air vents to paint black too. No sure how to tackle it so I can still move the louvers.
> Entrance



Tell her those are accent walls. Dark colored walls are all the rage. 


I've been in some model homes where walls were painted very dark. I'd call some dark brown, but I am sure it was some trendy color with a fancy name. 


btw, I think you room is looking good. It looks good with the white trim...but are you planning on painting the trim too? Maybe let the wife pick that color.


----------



## hatlesschimp

The 5040ub/6040ub and the 4k sonys remind me of transformers or the robots from Pacific Rim.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Lol let her pick the trim! 

Im pretty pally with the painter. He said this black paint isnt the best. He ordered some only black pigment direct from the factory. He said it will blacker again and wont see any roll marks with two more coats of it. But we were discussing the trim and I have some dark carpet too. He thinks its better to leave the trim so it defines the wall to floor. 
As for my eife Ive allowed her to pick the color for the study nook. She choose tiffany aqua and thats when I pulled the pin on her picking anymore colours. 😉

Thats the theater room carpet.


----------



## brianlvi3

Couldn't find this in the thread. Sorry if I missed it. I have an Epson 5020 and I am soon upgrading to the 5040. Will the 5020 mount work? I would think not but...Thanks.


----------



## Savatage316

dataJunkie said:


> PS4 Pro works fine with HDR @ 1080P. Tested with Ratchet and Clank and TLOU and all was good.
> 
> Non HDR outputs at 3160 ... faux-k .. so all good there too.


What settings do you need? Because I'm pretty sure when I set ps4 to 1080p and turned hdr on in game I got a pink screen. Is there an hdr on and off button on the projector?


----------



## gnolivos

rogermoore123 said:


> It is not the ps4pro or xboxones that has a problem.
> 
> They both output at the current hdmi spec - 18Gbps.
> 
> The epson only supports a max of 10.2Gbps. The wireless only accepts slightly higher signal of 24p 4.4.4 10/12bit then down converts to 4.2.2 to match non-wireless spec.
> 
> This projector will not do the current native 4k60p HDR streams without being down converted first.
> 
> The xboxones and ps4pro gaming output also has to be turned down to a reduced color and bitrate setting for the epson to work.
> 
> After following this thread from the start I'm happy to keep running my old epson with the ps4pro.
> 
> 
> 
> Like many other people on this thread are thinking - can the new posters please try and read from the start.
> 
> The same questions have been asked and answered multiple times. ☺




Based on my testing the 5040 doesn't even handle 4K 60hz SDR without converting. I can tell you YouTube via PS4 pro downconverts. Not so with 4K 30hz SDR. 

You can always check the advanced info on Yt app for exact dimensions and fps.


----------



## brianlvi3

I was also looking at the throw distance charts. My Epson 5020 could throw around a 90 inch (give or take) image from around 8'6". Is the 5040 the same? I only see max images from the distances.

Thanks.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Tell me what distance the back of the projector to the screen and ill measure now for you.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Waikis said:


> Updated my fw and it is still not fixed. Sigh.


People who own the 5040/6040 should all contact Epson and ask for FW release notes and suggest they add them onto the page where they provide FW updates to download.


----------



## hatlesschimp

brianlvi3 said:


> I was also looking at the throw distance charts. My Epson 5020 could throw around a 90 inch (give or take) image from around 8'6". Is the 5040 the same? I only see max images from the distances.
> 
> Thanks.


Just zoom out max and at 8'9" I got 91" 16:9 diagonal. Thought you had 8'9" sorry.


----------



## brianlvi3

hatlesschimp said:


> Tell me what distance the back of the projector to the screen and ill measure now for you.


From the screen to the PJ lens is 8 foot 6 inches plus 16 inches more to the rear.

So a total of 10 feet from screen to back of the PJ. Thanks.


----------



## bezlar

BiggusDiccus said:


> Holy **** snacks! Look at the size difference between the Epson and the Panasonic PTAE7000.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Shouldn't the epson be on top!! 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

*Epson*



Suppertime24 said:


> Anybody ever bought from AudioVideoNation.com?
> 
> 
> I guess they are a reseller so does that void the manufacturers warranty?


I emailed them twice and asked if they where a authorized dealer got no response, buyer beware,but I may be wrong


----------



## robc1976

Everdog said:


> I hope that won't be a heat blanket. Don't cover the air vents too.
> 
> 
> I don't see what the big deal is. Where are you placing the projector? Mine is behind the audience/seats and I could easily add a black wall with a hole to my shelf to hide it. But when seated you can't see it, so there is no reason.


 haven't placed it yet but it might in front of the audience since I sit 16' from screen, then 2nd row of seats behind me so no shelf can be made since I will have treatments on ceiling at 1st reflection points. Plus I have 4 layers of drywall with 2 layers of green glue. Pita to work with.


----------



## c.kingsley

mutiger said:


> The dealer I spoke with also mentioned Epson is fully aware of the current limitations of these projectors and she thinks they are working to remedy the situation ASAP. As to what that remedy would be is anybody's guess but I can't imagine a hardware change-out. If I were guessing I would suspect they'll update the firmware to accept any and all 4k inputs and then downgrade it internally, but I really have no clue. This dealer could also very well be blowing smoke up my hind quarters. I won't believe anything unless there's an official announcement.


Whomever spun that yarn doesn't know what they are talking about -- no offense to you personally. Epson can't negotiate a signaling rate higher than its chipset is capable of. This is a hardware limitation that software will_* never *_be able to fix. The only fix is a new hardware revision with an 18gbps chip. Even if that did happen, it is highly unlikely to occur this year. It would probably take months to redesign, test, re-tool, procure vast quantity of new ICs and then start producing a revised mainboard for the projector. Even if that effort were already underway... it's going to be awhile.

And I'm operating under the assumption that the reason they included 10.2gbps HDMI has nothing to do with the cost of the SIL9777 chips. I wager there is another much more complicated or expensive component in the unit that is the real bottleneck. That would also explain why even the UBE with it's full 18gbps SIL9777s still has that artificial limitation.


----------



## c.kingsley

Suppertime24 said:


> Anybody ever bought from AudioVideoNation.com?
> 
> 
> I guess they are a reseller so does that void the manufacturers warranty?


The cost delta between this dubious seller and a legit one is so small that it begs the question of why you'd put yourself at risk? You could negotiate that difference at a Best Buy or get half of it through Amazon+Discover cash back. Either way, I'd never stick my neck out on 95% of a $3k purchase just to save 5%. Buy from an authorized reseller. Have you heard of murphy's law? I guarantee if you try and get some super deal from a back alley, you'll be the one on here in 6 weeks with a dust blob -- and Epson won't help.


----------



## gnolivos

My guess is that Epson designed the architecture under the 2K assumption. After all, this projector can only display half of 4K with eshift, so why even bother with full bandwidth. (So to speak). 

But if this was the case (and it's pure speculation on my part) it was a stupid decision because as we all now know, incoming signals cannot be properly processed or accepted before downscaling.


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> My guess is that Epson designed the architecture under the 2K assumption. After all, this projector can only display half of 4K with eshift, so why even bother with full bandwidth. (So to speak).
> 
> But if this was the case (and it's pure speculation on my part) it was a stupid decision because incoming signals cannot be properly processed or accepted before downscaling.


I agree. I suspect the entire signal chain after the HDMI input is where the real limitation resides and they simply matched the input to the rest of the signal processing chain. I don't think the price delta between the JVC and the Epson is an accident.


----------



## WynsWrld98

c.kingsley said:


> Whomever spun that yarn doesn't know what they are talking about -- no offense to you personally. Epson can't negotiate a signaling rate higher than its chipset is capable of. This is a hardware limitation that software will_* never *_be able to fix. The only fix is a new hardware revision with an 18gbps chip. Even if that did happen, it is highly unlikely to occur this year. It would probably take months to redesign, test, re-tool, procure vast quantity of new ICs and then start producing a revised mainboard for the projector. Even if that effort were already underway... it's going to be awhile.
> 
> And I'm operating under the assumption that the reason they included 10.2gbps HDMI has nothing to do with the cost of the SIL9777 chips. I wager there is another much more complicated or expensive component in the unit that is the real bottleneck. That would also explain why even the UBE with it's full 18gbps SIL9777s still has that artificial limitation.


Epson 5050/6050 announced at CEDIA 9/2017, release late 2017.


----------



## dvdwilly3

For anyone with the issue of the projector (5040/6040) freezing when loading a different memory profile, I still do not know what the issue was, but the latest firmware update, 108, fixed the issue for me...


----------



## robc1976

Sitting at best buy right now arguing with a salesman who is saying I don't need the epson connected to a 4k receiver to get 4K content because the epson actually upscales the signal to 4k. I don't understand how this could be true? Also saying the XB1S doesn't need to be hooked to a 4K receiver either because the epson "of course" will upscale the signal to 4K.

Please tell me he is wrong and I am not crazy


----------



## gnolivos

robc1976 said:


> Sitting at best buy right now arguing with a salesman who is saying I don't need the epson connected to a 4k receiver to get 4K content because the epson actually upscales the signal to 4k. I don't understand how this could be true? Also saying the XB1S doesn't need to be hooked to a 4K receiver either because the epson "of course" will upscale the signal to 4K.
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me he is wrong and I am not crazy




Depends. If you want to feed any 4K streamer or player through the AVR, you WILL NEED a 4K receiver and it must support HDCP 2.2 at that.


----------



## WynsWrld98

robc1976 said:


> Sitting at best buy right now arguing with a salesman who is saying I don't need the epson connected to a 4k receiver to get 4K content because the epson actually upscales the signal to 4k. I don't understand how this could be true? Also saying the XB1S doesn't need to be hooked to a 4K receiver either because the epson "of course" will upscale the signal to 4K.
> 
> Please tell me he is wrong and I am not crazy


He is wrong and you are not crazy (providing you want to feed a 4K signal vs 1080p signal to the Epson). I had a similar experience at a Best Buy/Magnolia when I asked why they didn't have a 4K source feeding to the Epson 5040. His response: most people will feed it a 1080p signal, not a 4K signal so we don't feel it necessary to connect a 4K source. Sounds like a similar line to what you're getting but if you have a source device capable of 4K you certainly would want to feed it to the Epson which means your receiver must be 4K capable.


----------



## aaranddeeman

robc1976 said:


> Sitting at best buy right now arguing with a salesman who is saying I don't need the epson connected to a 4k receiver to get 4K content because the epson actually upscales the signal to 4k. I don't understand how this could be true? Also saying the XB1S doesn't need to be hooked to a 4K receiver either because the epson "of course" will upscale the signal to 4K.
> 
> Please tell me he is wrong and I am not crazy


If you are buying the projector, why is there even an argument about receiver?


----------



## c.kingsley

robc1976 said:


> Sitting at best buy right now arguing with a salesman who is saying I don't need the epson connected to a 4k receiver to get 4K content because the epson actually upscales the signal to 4k. I don't understand how this could be true? Also saying the XB1S doesn't need to be hooked to a 4K receiver either because the epson "of course" will upscale the signal to 4K.
> 
> Please tell me he is wrong and I am not crazy


He is wrong and you're not crazy. Yes, it will upscale 1080p to 4k with eshift engaged, but you'll need the entire signal chain to support 4k and HDMI 2.2 for 4k input.


----------



## rupedogg24

So I've put about 600 hours on my Epson 5040. It sits in a family room/mancave so it gets plenty of use each day. I've been tweaking it daily, cause, that's what we do. I'm never satisfied and always feel like the picture can be better. 

With that said, I was fooling around with the upscale settings on my Onkyo RZ1100. I wasn't upscaling anything going to the Epson because I wanted the projector to handle all the 4k scaling. I was very wrong. I now let the Onkyo upscale ALL 1080p material prior to getting to the projector. Now, I do this with the assumption that the Onkyo will passthrough all 4k content directly to the receiver and only scale 1080p material. 

UHD from the Philips players looks exactly the same. But my Fios picture now looks absolutely beautiful. The Onkyo does some really special processing from what i can tell. The result is a clean, sharp image to the projector. 

Loving my 5040ub purchase more and more.


----------



## BiggusDiccus

Installed the unit in my media room. Here's my feedback on noise level. If you're watching 1080p it's very quiet. If you're watching 4K with HDR content it's loud AF! It's manageable by cranking the sound up but you can still hear it. In addition, the Epson's fan will spin up and down during bright and dark scenes. My source is Roku Ultra.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

BiggusDiccus said:


> Installed the unit in my media room. Here's my feedback on noise level. If you're watching 1080p it's very quiet. If you're watching 4K with HDR content it's loud AF! It's manageable by cranking the sound up but you can still hear it. In addition, the Epson's fan will spin up and down during bright and dark scenes. My source is Roku Ultra.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Do you have it on Eco Mode? Mine is super quiet and sits about 4ft above and behind my head. Mine is set to Bright Cinema.


----------



## BiggusDiccus

rupedogg24 said:


> Do you have it on Eco Mode? Mine is super quiet and sits about 4ft above and behind my head. Mine is set to Bright Cinema.




No, High mode. I'm projecting to a 120" screen 12' throw.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## c.kingsley

rupedogg24 said:


> Do you have it on Eco Mode? Mine is super quiet and sits about 4ft above and behind my head. Mine is set to Bright Cinema.


Same for me. Projector is directly above the prime seating area, maybe 3-4' above. I use eco for bluray and medium for UHD with HDR. It is mild even on medium but I never notice. Maybe the sound is always too loud. I have a soft spot in my heart for Atmos, I'm currently running 5.1.2 and it is incredible.


----------



## c.kingsley

BiggusDiccus said:


> No, High mode. I'm projecting to a 120" screen 12' throw.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I am at 12'6" and I use eco/medium FWIW. There isn't enough added brightness on high to justify the increase in fan noise or reduced bulb life IMO.


----------



## rupedogg24

BiggusDiccus said:


> No, High mode. I'm projecting to a 120" screen 12' throw.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm at 130" screen with about a 13' throw. Change the setting to Eco. Not that much difference in brightness for me, and I don't have a light controlled room. Stay on Eco then just play with the settings for a while (everyday) until you find the right settings for you. 

Save them in the LOCK settings area. Can save up to 10 configs.


----------



## am2model3

Agreed very odd there is an 18gpbs video chip inside but a 10.2gpbs input chip... odd!


----------



## robc1976

aaranddeeman said:


> If you are buying the projector, why is there even an argument about receiver?


 have to upgrade my receiver and bluray player, my Denon 4311ci and Denon 3113UBT ARE not 4K they are 1080P


----------



## robc1976

rupedogg24 said:


> I'm at 130" screen with about a 13' throw. Change the setting to Eco. Not that much difference in brightness for me, and I don't have a light controlled room. Stay on Eco then just play with the settings for a while (everyday) until you find the right settings for you.
> 
> Save them in the LOCK settings area. Can save up to 10 configs.


exact info I need, this would be great if my 125" 2.35 will be a 13' throw. This will put projector behind my ceiling treatments...but still in front of the seats. Has to be black, getting the 6040ub for sure


----------



## robc1976

c.kingsley said:


> He is wrong and you're not crazy. Yes, it will upscale 1080p to 4k with eshift engaged, but you'll need the entire signal chain to support 4k and HDMI 2.2 for 4k input.


Going with this receiver, I am a Denon fan mostly because I know it ave this is the last year of A-DSX. I love heights and wides they sound amazing but MUST be set up correctly and 90% Of people don't.

I think it supports everything on the planet lol! 

https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hometheater/receivers/avrx7200wa


----------



## robc1976

How come links don't work?


----------



## robc1976

WynsWrld98 said:


> He is wrong and you are not crazy (providing you want to feed a 4K signal vs 1080p signal to the Epson). I had a similar experience at a Best Buy/Magnolia when I asked why they didn't have a 4K source feeding to the Epson 5040. His response: most people will feed it a 1080p signal, not a 4K signal so we don't feel it necessary to connect a 4K source. Sounds like a similar line to what you're getting but if you have a source device capable of 4K you certainly would want to feed it to the Epson which means your receiver must be 4K capable.


it was the magnolia room lol


----------



## seplant

dvdwilly3 said:


> I bought the cheaper Samsungs at BB for $20...
> 
> But, I then ordered the 3D Active from Amazon. They were around $40 each. The lenses are larger, they are rechargable and they fit better over regular glasses.
> 
> AND, they seem to work better. I don't know enough about crosstalk and other issues in 3D. I can just tell you that the image appeared clearer and the 3D effect seemed better defined to me.
> 
> Now, I have 4 pair of the 3D Active and 2 of the Samsung.


Would you mind providing the model number of those 3D Active glasses? Thanks.


----------



## sddp

robc1976 said:


> have to upgrade my receiver and bluray player, my Denon 4311ci and Denon 3113UBT ARE not 4K they are 1080P




I'm in the same boat. On my 4311CI which does an excellent job for my set up doesn't have 4K or HDCP 2.2. I am running a 9.2. So I know the newer AVR-X6300H would be a perfect upgrade, but it cost 2.2K and I know this time next year it'll be 1.2K'ish. 


Although I am running 9.2 with separates I want to go Atmos and 9.2 with Atmos doesn't exist yet. So hopefully by next year or so Denon will have something


----------



## sddp

robc1976 said:


> exact info I need, this would be great if my 125" 2.35 will be a 13' throw. This will put projector behind my ceiling treatments...but still in front of the seats. Has to be black, getting the 6040ub for sure






So no one here with all the complaints can just use a pack of Sharpie's?


----------



## dvdwilly3

seplant said:


> Would you mind providing the model number of those 3D Active glasses? Thanks.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWERZN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A quirk of the Epson, I think...when the Amazon glasses are fully charged they only register at 75%. However, they stay at 75% for a very long time.

And, when I put fresh batteries in the Samsung glasses, they only registered at 75%. Go figure...


----------



## robc1976

sddp said:


> So no one here with all the complaints can just use a pack of Sharpie's?


That may take a while lol


----------



## robc1976

sddp said:


> I'm in the same boat. On my 4311CI which does an excellent job for my set up doesn't have 4K or HDCP 2.2. I am running a 9.2. So I know the newer AVR-X6300H would be a perfect upgrade, but it cost 2.2K and I know this time next year it'll be 1.2K'ish.
> 
> 
> Although I am running 9.2 with separates I want to go Atmos and 9.2 with Atmos doesn't exist yet. So hopefully by next year or so Denon will have something


I like heights and wides so will have to stick with the 2015 7200w, I also run separates.


----------



## terminal33

BiggusDiccus said:


> Installed the unit in my media room. Here's my feedback on noise level. If you're watching 1080p it's very quiet. If you're watching 4K with HDR content it's loud AF! It's manageable by cranking the sound up but you can still hear it. In addition, the Epson's fan will spin up and down during bright and dark scenes. My source is Roku Ultra.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





rupedogg24 said:


> Do you have it on Eco Mode? Mine is super quiet and sits about 4ft above and behind my head. Mine is set to Bright Cinema.


I just started noticing the whining sound if 4K enhancement is on. I never noticed it before. When I turn the 4K enhancement off, the sound goes away. I have it on Eco and Natural.


----------



## Ronman79

hatlesschimp said:


> The 5040ub/6040ub and the 4k sonys remind me of transformers or the robots from Pacific Rim.


Good looking room coming along! 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

rupedogg24 said:


> So I've put about 600 hours on my Epson 5040. It sits in a family room/mancave so it gets plenty of use each day. I've been tweaking it daily, cause, that's what we do. I'm never satisfied and always feel like the picture can be better.
> 
> 
> 
> With that said, I was fooling around with the upscale settings on my Onkyo RZ1100. I wasn't upscaling anything going to the Epson because I wanted the projector to handle all the 4k scaling. I was very wrong. I now let the Onkyo upscale ALL 1080p material prior to getting to the projector. Now, I do this with the assumption that the Onkyo will passthrough all 4k content directly to the receiver and only scale 1080p material.
> 
> 
> 
> UHD from the Philips players looks exactly the same. But my Fios picture now looks absolutely beautiful. The Onkyo does some really special processing from what i can tell. The result is a clean, sharp image to the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> Loving my 5040ub purchase more and more.




Thanks for the info. I think this is a topic worthy of some additional review/response from others as well. I have a Denon x4200w and have posted a few times in the Denon owners thread about the best AVR settings and haven't been able to get the best responses. 

It seems like all the feedback I've seen has been related to whether someone can still get their On Screen Display (OSD) from their AVR when setting Video Conversion or IP scaling to "ON", or both. I would certainly like to have the OSD work, but my primary concern is to get the best picture quality. That said, I don't have a 4K player yet as I'm waiting for the Oppo, but I have DirecTV, PS4, and Roku Premier+ --- and I really can't tell a difference with the Roku or the PS4 for Blu-ray playback between setting the AVR to Video Conversion and IP scaling to either ON or OFF. I believe when Video Conversion is set to OFF, the AVR just passes the video to the Epson to do its 4K upscaling thing, and when set to ON the AVR does it and then sends to Epson, which I'm guessing does nothing further with it other than process via the image settings in the menu. Like I said, for Blu-ray playback I can't tell a difference either way. I'd have to check Directv again to see if the scaling on the AVR looks better.

I'm pretty new to this aspect of how 4K upscaling should work, so very interested to hear from more educated folks that can give reasoning to why you would want those AVR settings either ON or OFF for various input sources.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## am2model3

Yes back in the 1080p days, blu rays and players just worked wonderfully whether you had 720p,1080i, or 1080p hdmi display. It was great. Now ultra hd 4k has issues to sort lol


----------



## robc1976

spirithockey79 said:


> Thanks for the info. I think this is a topic worthy of some additional review/response from others as well. I have a Denon x4200w and have posted a few times in the Denon owners thread about the best AVR settings and haven't been able to get the best responses.
> 
> It seems like all the feedback I've seen has been related to whether someone can still get their On Screen Display (OSD) from their AVR when setting Video Conversion or IP scaling to "ON", or both. I would certainly like to have the OSD work, but my primary concern is to get the best picture quality. That said, I don't have a 4K player yet as I'm waiting for the Oppo, but I have DirecTV, PS4, and Roku Premier+ --- and I really can't tell a difference with the Roku or the PS4 for Blu-ray playback between setting the AVR to Video Conversion and IP scaling to either ON or OFF. I believe when Video Conversion is set to OFF, the AVR just passes the video to the Epson to do its 4K upscaling thing, and when set to ON the AVR does it and then sends to Epson, which I'm guessing does nothing further with it other than process via the image settings in the menu. Like I said, for Blu-ray playback I can't tell a difference either way. I'd have to check Directv again to see if the scaling on the AVR looks better.
> 
> I'm pretty new to this aspect of how 4K upscaling should work, so very interested to hear from more educated folks that can give reasoning to why you would want those AVR settings either ON or OFF for various input sources.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I am getting a x7200WA OR X6200, are you referring to the AVR on screen display not projecting? That would be a huge issue with me because I am constantly running audyssey, tweaking settings ect.


----------



## achanonier

ana_moo_ana said:


> did anyone try 1080p/HDR combo on normal PS4 (not pro)?


Yep that works

I've tested the following

PS4 1080p HDR --> OK
PS4 Pro 1080p HDR --> OK
PS4 Pro 2160p60 --> OK
PS4 Pro 2160p60 HDR --> KO

All that with the wired version on HDMI 1.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

achanonier said:


> Yep that works
> 
> 
> 
> I've tested the following
> 
> 
> 
> PS4 1080p HDR --> OK
> 
> PS4 Pro 1080p HDR --> OK
> 
> PS4 Pro 2160p60 --> OK
> 
> PS4 Pro 2160p60 HDR --> KO
> 
> 
> 
> All that with the wired version on HDMI 1.




thats great! I didnt know the regular PS4 can do HDR till yesterday. Dont think I want to upgrade now lol


----------



## k3nnis

achanonier said:


> Yep that works
> 
> 
> 
> I've tested the following
> 
> 
> 
> PS4 1080p HDR --> OK
> 
> PS4 Pro 1080p HDR --> OK
> 
> PS4 Pro 2160p60 --> OK
> 
> PS4 Pro 2160p60 HDR --> KO
> 
> 
> 
> All that with the wired version on HDMI 1.




How do you get [email protected] HDR with the wired Epson? Is it 8bit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pasender91

He just mentioned KO for that resolution, meaning NOT OK


----------



## gnolivos

achanonier said:


> Yep that works
> 
> 
> 
> I've tested the following
> 
> 
> 
> PS4 1080p HDR --> OK
> 
> PS4 Pro 1080p HDR --> OK
> 
> PS4 Pro 2160p60 --> OK
> 
> PS4 Pro 2160p60 HDR --> KO
> 
> 
> 
> All that with the wired version on HDMI 1.




I disagree on the 
PS4 Pro 2160p60

How did you test this? For YouTube feeds it downgrades the resolution before displaying. Not sure about other sources.


----------



## dotorg

Threefiddie said:


> well when they aren't releasing new movies or very few in 3d... i mean that says it and the fact they aren't being filmed with 3d cameras and most are conversions.


That's because the quality ends up better. Ten years ago 3D conversions were lousy because they were done manually. Today, depth information is recorded (via LIDAR and other technologies) at the same time the film is shot. The end result is actually dramatically better when the depth is calculated in post-processing. The problem with "true" shot 3D is that it becomes very difficult to do CGI compositing and the whole editing process becomes much more difficult. You may also discover that the positioning of something in the foreground causes eyestrain. By doing it afterwards, it all blends seemlessly. So the fact that movies aren't shot in 3D is not a sign that 3D isn't being used, its a sign that directors and DPs have learned how to do it properly.


----------



## rogermoore123

gnolivos said:


> I disagree on the
> PS4 Pro 2160p60
> 
> How did you test this? For YouTube feeds it downgrades the resolution before displaying. Not sure about other sources.


It should be able to do 4k60p 4.2.0 8bit when you force 2160p yuv limited HDR off.
The neogaf guys have been doing a lot of testing with different displays - only downside is for gaming on the epson is it is half of the ps4pro's potential.
( 4k60p 4.4.4 8bit for non hdr and 4k60p 4.2.2 12bit for hdr on a 18Gbps display device )

http://m.neogaf.com/showthread.php?t=1310135


----------



## gnolivos

rogermoore123 said:


> It should be able to do 4k60p 4.2.0 8bit when you force 2160p yuv limited HDR off.
> 
> The neogaf guys have been doing a lot of testing with different displays - only downside is for gaming on the epson is it is half of the ps4pro's potential.
> 
> ( 4k60p 4.4.4 8bit for non hdr and 4k60p 4.2.2 12bit for hdr on a 18Gbps display device )
> 
> 
> 
> http://m.neogaf.com/showthread.php?t=1310135




I'm not disagreeing with you here - except that, on the YouTube app at least, you take a 2160p60 SDR video and it displays at a lower resolution on the Epson. I think it does 1440 but I have to recheck the exact resolution. Try it out. You click More Options on the YT app and select the last icon on the right that looks like a little bug.

If you select a 2160p30 SDR video it does full 4K.


----------



## aaranddeeman

robc1976 said:


> I am getting a x7200WA OR X6200, are you referring to the AVR on screen display not projecting? That would be a huge issue with me because I am constantly running audyssey, tweaking settings ect.


He is talking about OSD. What you are referring to is normal setup screen. Two different things.
OSD overlays on your running video. e.g Volume control.


----------



## rupedogg24

terminal33 said:


> I just started noticing the whining sound if 4K enhancement is on. I never noticed it before. When I turn the 4K enhancement off, the sound goes away. I have it on Eco and Natural.


How long have you had it? I think i read that its recommended to clean the filter monthly. Don't know if that cld be it. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

spirithockey79 said:


> Thanks for the info. I think this is a topic worthy of some additional review/response from others as well. I have a Denon x4200w and have posted a few times in the Denon owners thread about the best AVR settings and haven't been able to get the best responses.
> 
> It seems like all the feedback I've seen has been related to whether someone can still get their On Screen Display (OSD) from their AVR when setting Video Conversion or IP scaling to "ON", or both. I would certainly like to have the OSD work, but my primary concern is to get the best picture quality. That said, I don't have a 4K player yet as I'm waiting for the Oppo, but I have DirecTV, PS4, and Roku Premier+ --- and I really can't tell a difference with the Roku or the PS4 for Blu-ray playback between setting the AVR to Video Conversion and IP scaling to either ON or OFF. I believe when Video Conversion is set to OFF, the AVR just passes the video to the Epson to do its 4K upscaling thing, and when set to ON the AVR does it and then sends to Epson, which I'm guessing does nothing further with it other than process via the image settings in the menu. Like I said, for Blu-ray playback I can't tell a difference either way. I'd have to check Directv again to see if the scaling on the AVR looks better.
> 
> I'm pretty new to this aspect of how 4K upscaling should work, so very interested to hear from more educated folks that can give reasoning to why you would want those AVR settings either ON or OFF for various input sources.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Unless you set the I/P scalar on and set the specific output resolution (other than AUTO), the AVR will not change it, IMHO.
You just need Video conversion ON for OSD to work.


----------



## aaranddeeman

robc1976 said:


> have to upgrade my receiver and bluray player, my Denon 4311ci and Denon 3113UBT ARE not 4K they are 1080P


Though you should have the receiver that supports HDCP 2.2, it's not "must" with the two HDMI outputs the UHD players have these days.


----------



## aaranddeeman

robc1976 said:


> I like heights and wides so will have to stick with the 2015 7200w, I also run separates.


Just be aware though you can't have 4 heights and wides active at the same time.. But this is OT. Take this to AVR thread.


----------



## achanonier

gnolivos said:


> I disagree on the
> PS4 Pro 2160p60
> 
> How did you test this? For YouTube feeds it downgrades the resolution before displaying. Not sure about other sources.



I have the PS4 pro set on auto for resolution, dynalic range an HDR.
All games plays fine in 2160p60 but of course HDR cannot be activated.

So far I've tested Uncharted 4 , Rise of the Tomb Raider and TLOU.


----------



## gnolivos

achanonier said:


> I have the PS4 pro set on auto for resolution, dynalic range an HDR.
> 
> All games plays fine in 2160p60 but of course HDR cannot be activated.
> 
> 
> 
> So far I've tested Uncharted 4 , Rise of the Tomb Raider and TLOU.




Well there isn't really an accurate way of determining what exact signal is being sent from the PS4 to the projector, when playing games. Is there? The projector info screen tells you the output resolution, but says nothing about the incoming feed. That's my interpretation anyway. 
The feed from the PS4 may be downscaled accordingly based on the HDMI handshake and a limited bandwidth of the projector. 

Try the YouTube app and display the debug info to obtain exact information and tell me what you find out.


----------



## achanonier

I have a question for those that use a Programmable remote as the Logitech Harmony or other stuff with the Epson 6040.

I would like to know if there is a direct IR code for :
User saved memories
Dynamic range settings (SDR, HDR1 etc...)

I would like to be able to program activities with a programmable remote

THanks for your help


----------



## mase1981

achanonier said:


> I have a question for those that use a Programmable remote as the Logitech Harmony or other stuff with the Epson 6040.
> 
> I would like to know if there is a direct IR code for :
> User saved memories
> Dynamic range settings (SDR, HDR1 etc...)
> 
> I would like to be able to program activities with a programmable remote
> 
> THanks for your help


I Personally added the 6040 to Logitech DB, i have added every single button on the original remote. 
it is under "Epson Pro Cinema 6040B".


----------



## achanonier

mase1981 said:


> I Personally added the 6040 to Logitech DB, i have added every single button on the original remote.
> it is under "Epson Pro Cinema 6040B".


Ok but that means if I want to let's say changer user settings : I need send
Memrory IR code
Down IR code (as many time needed)
OK IR code

To have it changed ?

No direct access ?


----------



## mase1981

achanonier said:


> Ok but that means if I want to let's say changer user settings : I need send
> Memrory IR code
> Down IR code (as many time needed)
> OK IR code
> 
> To have it changed ?
> 
> No direct access ?


You have 2 physical buttons on the remote: "Memory & User". They were added to logitech DB by myself. Clicking those will bring you to the default page/first option. 
If you have more then that, that require more up / down / etc. what you want to do is create a "Macro".
on your Logi software to go "Activity" --> Change buttons --> Macros --> add a macro for after clicking the "User" or "Memory" Button and set the appropriate movement steps (Down, Down, Down, OK, Down, OK) .


----------



## achanonier

Ok th'as what I was thinking...
So that means all the menus will appear and I have to set wait times in between commands to make sure the PJ does everything correctly...


----------



## gnolivos

achanonier said:


> Ok but that means if I want to let's say changer user settings : I need send
> 
> Memrory IR code
> 
> Down IR code (as many time needed)
> 
> OK IR code
> 
> 
> 
> To have it changed ?
> 
> 
> 
> No direct access ?




You are looking for direct codes. The answer is none known at this time.


----------



## BiggusDiccus

terminal33 said:


> I just started noticing the whining sound if 4K enhancement is on. I never noticed it before. When I turn the 4K enhancement off, the sound goes away. I have it on Eco and Natural.




Well I can tell you that whether it's in Eco, Medium or High the noise level is higher than people have stated in their previous posts. I've had to raise the sound level +3db to compensate and even then you can hear it. I guess I'll get used to it because the picture is pretty spectacular. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## BiggusDiccus

gnolivos said:


> I disagree on the
> PS4 Pro 2160p60
> 
> How did you test this? For YouTube feeds it downgrades the resolution before displaying. Not sure about other sources.




You know that's a very good point! I was watching Netflix on my Roku Ultra and when selecting a show to watch in 4K the title will usually indicate it's in 4K UHD. Well sometimes it shows 4K UHD and other times it'll show HD for the same title, just moments later. Amazon Prime no problem. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rjguk

gnolivos said:


> Well there isn't really an accurate way of determining what exact signal is being sent from the PS4 to the projector, when playing games. Is there? The projector info screen tells you the output resolution, but says nothing about the incoming feed. That's my interpretation anyway.
> The feed from the PS4 may be downscaled accordingly based on the HDMI handshake and a limited bandwidth of the projector.
> 
> Try the YouTube app and display the debug info to obtain exact information and tell me what you find out.


I was taking the opposite interpretation - the projector info screen shows what it is receiving as an input, and that's set by the handshaking with the source. Anyone know for sure?


----------



## dataJunkie

Savatage316 said:


> What settings do you need? Because I'm pretty sure when I set ps4 to 1080p and turned hdr on in game I got a pink screen. Is there an hdr on and off button on the projector?


If you're getting a pink screen, have you tried a different HDMI Cables. Peeps on here have been trying varying HDMI cables with varying success. Some that are even labelled High-Speed may not actually be.

Just trying TLOU there now and its coming in at BT2020 / 12Bit / HDR2 /1080P

Maybe if you try disable HDR while connected and see if your normal signal is OK. And check the PS4 Pro settings that HDCP is enabled etc?

EDIT: You sholdn't have to enable HDR, as the console should auto detect compatibility. But if you want to check at the projector, its under Signal -> Advanced -> Dynamic Range


----------



## dataJunkie

robc1976 said:


> I am getting a x7200WA OR X6200, are you referring to the AVR on screen display not projecting? That would be a huge issue with me because I am constantly running audyssey, tweaking settings ect.


X6200 owner here .. turning Scaling off doesn't completey disable the OSD .. it just turns your screen blank for 5-6 seconds while it kicks in the overlay. Bit of an annoyance but not a deal breaker for me. There does seem to be a 'washed-out' effect on some blacks when the video conversion is enabled tho. Blacks are not as black as they could be. But will play around with setting a manual conversion to 4K/60 and see what happens tonight.


----------



## 1st Cav

Quick question, is it possible to watch 2.35:1 content on the 5040 without an anamorphic lens? And if it is, the picture quality isn't terribly compromised by doing so is it?


----------



## terminal33

rupedogg24 said:


> How long have you had it? I think i read that its recommended to clean the filter monthly. Don't know if that cld be it.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


I've had it for about 6 weeks. I'll look into cleaning the filter. The whining so far has been with Directv. I haven't checked with 1080p or 4K discs yet. 



BiggusDiccus said:


> Well I can tell you that whether it's in Eco, Medium or High the noise level is higher than people have stated in their previous posts. I've had to raise the sound level +3db to compensate and even then you can hear it. I guess I'll get used to it because the picture is pretty spectacular.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I plan to call Epson to see what they say, but if nothing can be done then I plan to just raise the volume and deal with it. Like you said, it projects such a nice picture.


----------



## Savatage316

dataJunkie said:


> If you're getting a pink screen, have you tried a different HDMI Cables. Peeps on here have been trying varying HDMI cables with varying success. Some that are even labelled High-Speed may not actually be.
> 
> Just trying TLOU there now and its coming in at BT2020 / 12Bit / HDR2 /1080P
> 
> Maybe if you try disable HDR while connected and see if your normal signal is OK. And check the PS4 Pro settings that HDCP is enabled etc?
> 
> EDIT: You sholdn't have to enable HDR, as the console should auto detect compatibility. But if you want to check at the projector, its under Signal -> Advanced -> Dynamic Range


Yea that's what I assumed is it should auto detect, but here's what I'm referring to.. In game looks at video options, there are options to turn on hdr... That's what I'm talking about, like you're saying it all auto detects which it does within the projector but hdr looks like it needs switched on within a game, have you did that yet? Because it's set to off on these games, take a look and see if you see what I'm referring to.


----------



## terminal33

spirithockey79 said:


> Thanks for the info. I think this is a topic worthy of some additional review/response from others as well. I have a Denon x4200w and have posted a few times in the Denon owners thread about the best AVR settings and haven't been able to get the best responses.
> 
> It seems like all the feedback I've seen has been related to whether someone can still get their On Screen Display (OSD) from their AVR when setting Video Conversion or IP scaling to "ON", or both. I would certainly like to have the OSD work, but my primary concern is to get the best picture quality. That said, I don't have a 4K player yet as I'm waiting for the Oppo, but I have DirecTV, PS4, and Roku Premier+ --- and I really can't tell a difference with the Roku or the PS4 for Blu-ray playback between setting the AVR to Video Conversion and IP scaling to either ON or OFF. I believe when Video Conversion is set to OFF, the AVR just passes the video to the Epson to do its 4K upscaling thing, and when set to ON the AVR does it and then sends to Epson, which I'm guessing does nothing further with it other than process via the image settings in the menu. Like I said, for Blu-ray playback I can't tell a difference either way. I'd have to check Directv again to see if the scaling on the AVR looks better.
> 
> I'm pretty new to this aspect of how 4K upscaling should work, so very interested to hear from more educated folks that can give reasoning to why you would want those AVR settings either ON or OFF for various input sources.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I have the Denon x2300 and with Directv, it looks noticeably better with the AVR set to "Bypass." I tried various video settings on the Denon last night to confirm, and the video processing on the Denon just isn't as good as the Epson, according to my eyes. I haven't checked with any blu ray discs though.


----------



## Axlrod

Is anyone else having issues with the screen going black for 5-10 seconds every 15-20 minutes after the Firmware update?

So far I've only noticed it when using the XB1S, but i haven't really tried the Roku Ultra, Phillips or Samsung as a source yet since I did the update.

Also. Is anyone else not getting Netflix in 4k from the Roku Ultra? Vudu on the Roku is giving 4K, but not nelflix?

Thanks


----------



## achanonier

terminal33 said:


> I've had it for about 6 weeks. I'll look into cleaning the filter. The whining so far has been with Directv. I haven't checked with 1080p or 4K discs yet.
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to call Epson to see what they say, but if nothing can be done then I plan to just raise the volume and deal with it. Like you said, it projects such a nice picture.


Whining noise is there when 4k enhancement or 4k input is used with a 60hz source.

So no whining noise for 24p UHD blu rays, and no whining noise for 50hz set top boxes...


----------



## dataJunkie

Savatage316 said:


> Yea that's what I assumed is it should auto detect, but here's what I'm referring to.. In game looks at video options, there are options to turn on hdr... That's what I'm talking about, like you're saying it all auto detects which it does within the projector but hdr looks like it needs switched on within a game, have you did that yet? Because it's set to off on these games, take a look and see if you see what I'm referring to.


I understand what you're referring to, and the two games that I tried ... Ratchet & Clank and TLOU both asked me upon initial startup that it has detected a HDR Compatible display and if I would like to enable HDR.

The same option can also be enabled via the options screen of both games seperately also ..

Hope this helps...

Are you directly connected to the Projector or are you hooked up to an AV receiver too?


----------



## spirithockey79

robc1976 said:


> I am getting a x7200WA OR X6200, are you referring to the AVR on screen display not projecting? That would be a huge issue with me because I am constantly running audyssey, tweaking settings ect.




Yes, I'm referring to the Denon's OSD. If you turn the Video Conversion on the AVR to OFF then the OSD will not display as an overlay to what you are watching. Sounds like it's not compatible with HDMI. Now if Video Conversion is turned ON, the OSD will work.

What I'm trying to get clarity on is 2 things:

1) when people refer to setting the AVR to " bypass" does that simply mean turning Video Conversion OFF? On my x4200w there is no specific bypass setting--- so I'm assuming it means OFF

2) by setting Video Conversion to ON, does that negatively impact picture quality? Does it interfere at all with the Epson doing their 4k upscaling?


----------



## spirithockey79

aaranddeeman said:


> Unless you set the I/P scalar on and set the specific output resolution (other than AUTO), the AVR will not change it, IMHO.
> 
> You just need Video conversion ON for OSD to work.




Thanks. So if Video Conversion is on (which allows the OSD) but up scaling is OFF, are you saying the AVR shouldn't be doing anything other than passing through to the Epson? Some refer to setting AVR to bypass and not sure if ON is bypassing or it has to be OFF


----------



## spirithockey79

terminal33 said:


> I have the Denon x2300 and with Directv, it looks noticeably better with the AVR set to "Bypass." I tried various video settings on the Denon last night to confirm, and the video processing on the Denon just isn't as good as the Epson, according to my eyes. I haven't checked with any blu ray discs though.




Does the x2300 have an actual bypass setting, or is that just turning Video Conversion to OFF?


----------



## Savatage316

dataJunkie said:


> I understand what you're referring to, and the two games that I tried ... Ratchet & Clank and TLOU both asked me upon initial startup that it has detected a HDR Compatible display and if I would like to enable HDR.
> 
> The same option can also be enabled via the options screen of both games seperately also ..
> 
> Hope this helps...
> 
> Are you directly connected to the Projector or are you hooked up to an AV receiver too?


I'm running thru a Denon S910W, and that's the thing.. Not sure if maybe there's an option there that's needing to be turned on. See for me all this new stuff is just insanely new to me, I been buying it all for years but it was just easier 5 to 10+ back. I rolled over one day and it's 4k this, hdr that, dynamic range, hdpc 2.2, I mean it was a colossal explosion of new terms and tech so when I upgraded I knew there was still a lot to learn. 

My pro is set to automatic, so it would make sense that everything is on automatically. I mean I get gorgeous pictures, that's the beauty of it all.. But I'm not sure what hdr looks like yet, so that's why I'm not sure if I'm seeing 1080p at 2k hdr or if I'm seeing 1080p with just 4k enhancements. 

But when I look in options in games like uncharted, hdr is what appears to be off... When I click it on in options it's when my screen goes pink. Turn it off and it's back to normal. So I'm just tryin to understand what I'm dealing with.


----------



## spirithockey79

1st Cav said:


> Quick question, is it possible to watch 2.35:1 content on the 5040 without an anamorphic lens? And if it is, the picture quality isn't terribly compromised by doing so is it?




Technically you can watch any aspect ratio you want on the 5040. . 

I'm assuming you are asking if you can watch it on a 2.35 screen without anamorphic lens. If so, then Yes, you just zoom to fit your screen and I don't think there's much compromise to pq. I have a 110" 2.35 screen and think the pq is awesome. You just set lens memory positions for 2.35, 2.39, 1.78, 1.85, 2.40, 2.75 (for stuff like Hateful Eight), as many as you want up to 10. Press of a button changes it. You'll want black walls though as the black bars will still be projecting above and below the screen. I have a black wall where the screen hangs and don't see any light from those black bars.


----------



## terminal33

spirithockey79 said:


> Does the x2300 have an actual bypass setting, or is that just turning Video Conversion to OFF?


It has an actual "Bypass" setting.


----------



## brianlvi3

hatlesschimp said:


> Just zoom out max and at 8'9" I got 91" 16:9 diagonal. Thought you had 8'9" sorry.


Thanks for your help.


----------



## gnolivos

Well I think I have some terrible news that no one has mentioned here before. 

If I am interpreting the information posted on the Sony PlayStation website correctly, the combination of a PS4 Pro and the Epson 5040 will never produce anything higher than 1080 P!!!

Epson 5040 is considered a 2K projector (as noted on the PlayStation 4 video settings information screen). So the table here says 1080p no matter what. 

Please tell me this is not true... (slaps forehead)

Source: http://blog.us.playstation.com/2016/09/08/ps4-pro-the-ultimate-faq/


----------



## robc1976

gnolivos said:


> I bought the terrific Chief Mount Mini RSMAU. I attached it in such a way that I get exactly 8 1/4 inches FROM THE CEILING to the CENTER OF THE LENS.
> 
> It's not cheap, but it is universal and very sturdy, and will be future proof. Go for it if you can.
> 
> http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RSMAU


 this is what I need to know (sorry for bumping older post) so basically your viewing screen starts at 8 1/2" from ceiling. Is that the closest I can get to the ceiling? I was hoping for closer, may have to get smaller screen.


----------



## welldun

Is there a calibration Thread for the 5040UB? 

I have one arriving today, and would like to see what others have done to calibrate the unit in a dedicated room that is completely light controlled, but using a gray screen. you can read up on the details of my room in my signature below. 

Thanks and sorry if this has already been asked, its just that being 3580 post in already, there a lot to sift through. I see that the opening post had some additional slots reserved for updated info, I will check there also. Thanks


----------



## k3nnis

achanonier said:


> Whining noise is there when 4k enhancement or 4k input is used with a 60hz source.
> 
> 
> 
> So no whining noise for 24p UHD blu rays, and no whining noise for 50hz set top boxes...




So for Xbox one S or PS4 gaming which is 60hz there will be whining with 4K enhancement?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

A NOTE ON SUPERWHITE EPSON SETTING.

I was watching Don't Breathe movie today via VuDu and it is a very dark movie. I noticed there was no detail on dark scenes. So I started messing with my already calibrated settings and noticed that when I turned super white off everything looked fine again. Big big difference. So just something to check guys... it is normal OFF by default but a while back I turned it on and recalibrated. That apparently was a bad idea.


----------



## sddp

welldun said:


> Is there a calibration Thread for the 5040UB?
> 
> I have one arriving today, and would like to see what others have done to calibrate the unit in a dedicated room that is completely light controlled, but using a gray screen. you can read up on the details of my room in my signature below.
> 
> Thanks and sorry if this has already been asked, its just that being 3580 post in already, there a lot to sift through. I see that the opening post had some additional slots reserved for updated info, I will check there also. Thanks




I bought this: Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark and Calibration Disc 2nd Edition 




Watch this video: 




http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xm...solution-explained-and-the-tom-cruise-co_tech


----------



## 1st Cav

spirithockey79 said:


> Technically you can watch any aspect ratio you want on the 5040. .
> 
> I'm assuming you are asking if you can watch it on a 2.35 screen without anamorphic lens. If so, then Yes, you just zoom to fit your screen and I don't think there's much compromise to pq. I have a 110" 2.35 screen and think the pq is awesome. You just set lens memory positions for 2.35, 2.39, 1.78, 1.85, 2.40, 2.75 (for stuff like Hateful Eight), as many as you want up to 10. Press of a button changes it. You'll want black walls though as the black bars will still be projecting above and below the screen. I have a black wall where the screen hangs and don't see any light from those black bars.


Perfect info, thanks alot! The lens memory function for scope is a major factor for me as I'm considering the Epson vs the Sony 45es. The light spill from the black bars was also a concern, but I'll be using a false screen wall covered in black GOM FR701 and will probably cover the side walls and ceiling within 4ft of the screen just to soak up any possible reflections. Thanks again


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Is there anywhere I can find the pros and cons of mounting the projector at different distances from the screen? I just received my 5040UB, but I'm not sure if I should try and mount it above the first row or above the second row. Or how far down from the ceiling. The guy I spoke to on the phone said you want the lens to be lined up with the top of the screen.

I've read that you should be towards the back half of the throw, but I'm not sure why or if that's even correct.

I have a 125" 2.35:1 screen.


----------



## Dave Harper

dataJunkie said:


> ....... There does seem to be a 'washed-out' effect on some blacks when the video conversion is enabled tho. Blacks are not as black as they could be. But will play around with setting a manual conversion to 4K/60 and see what happens tonight.



Maybe the receiver is set to "Extended" mode where it changes from the normal digital video levels of 16-235 to the full range of 0-255? This can make blacks appear more grey. 



achanonier said:


> Whining noise is there when 4k enhancement or 4k input is used with a 60hz source.
> 
> 
> 
> So no whining noise for 24p UHD blu rays, and no whining noise for 50hz set top boxes...



I seem to get a whining noise whenever my wife walks in!  

(Sorry, couldn't resist!)


----------



## Waikis

Is manual iris disabled in HDR mode?


----------



## robc1976

gnolivos said:


> A NOTE ON SUPERWHITE EPSON SETTING.
> 
> I was watching Don't Breathe movie today via VuDu and it is a very dark movie. I noticed there was no detail on dark scenes. So I started messing with my already calibrated settings and noticed that when I turned super white off everything looked fine again. Big big difference. So just something to check guys... it is normal OFF by default but a while back I turned it on and recalibrated. That apparently was a bad idea.


 collecting posts from this thread on this projector. I know it seems dumb but I like having references...adding this for sure


----------



## robc1976

dave harper said:


> maybe the receiver is set to "extended" mode where it changes from the normal digital video levels of 16-235 to the full range of 0-255? This can make blacks appear more grey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seem to get a whining noise whenever my wife walks in!
> 
> (sorry, couldn't resist!)


roflmao! !


----------



## gnolivos

A NOTE ON PS4 PRO AND 8 BIT BANDING
I can confirm that on PS4 Pro set to 4K, when streaming VUDU and possibly on Bluray as well, the Epson delivers only 8bit color and THERE IS definitely noticeable banding on any and all gradients. I see this in games too. 

My advice if you are watching movies is to set the PS4pro to 1080 and let the Epson do the 4K upscaling. You will get 12 bit AND you will be able to use FI if you wish.


----------



## hatlesschimp

gnolivos said:


> A NOTE ON SUPERWHITE EPSON SETTING.
> 
> I was watching Don't Breathe movie today via VuDu and it is a very dark movie. I noticed there was no detail on dark scenes. So I started messing with my already calibrated settings and noticed that when I turned super white off everything looked fine again. Big big difference. So just something to check guys... it is normal OFF by default but a while back I turned it on and recalibrated. That apparently was a bad idea.


I think Super White looks like puss!


----------



## Sundodger

hatlesschimp said:


> Surely it can be patched. It makes no sense!



Based on what I've read throughout this thread it sounds like I can view 4k and HDR through the Xbox One S if I get the 5040UBE (I just received the UB, but haven't unpacked it yet). Hatlesschimp, you seem to have had a chance to test the Xbox (and an understanding of the results). Hoping to avoid the Fury option.


Is that still the consensus?


When compared to other players (i.e. Samsung) with this XB1=>5040UBE image be the same or is there a loss of some kind?


Will this setup support HDR viewing of Netflix/Amazon streaming? 


I know this has been discussed, but I'm trying to consolidate the XB1 information since I will be gaming and would prefer to have a single gaming machine and player.


----------



## hatlesschimp

gnolivos said:


> A NOTE ON PS4 PRO AND 8 BIT BANDING
> I can confirm that on PS4 Pro set to 4K, when streaming VUDU and possibly on Bluray as well, the Epson delivers only 8bit color and THERE IS definitely noticeable banding on any and all gradients. I see this in games too.
> 
> My advice if you are watching movies is to set the PS4pro to 1080 and let the Epson do the 4K upscaling. You will get 12 bit AND you will be able to use FI if you wish.


Huh? Blu ray is 1080p and 8 bit. What were you watching? Im yet to see any banding anywhere. I dont think its worthy throwing out there and scarring people. 
Put it this way. I used to own a Benq W1080st. It was beautiful to me when compared to the old optoma that i had. One day on the forums someone said But Rainbow Effect is horrible on these projectors and its total off putting etc. Well from then on I saw the RBE and had to retrain my brain not to see it during black scenes with white writing or highlights.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Sundodger said:


> Based on what I've read throughout this thread it sounds like I can view 4k and HDR through the Xbox One S if I get the 5040UBE (I just received the UB, but haven't unpacked it yet). Hatlesschimp, you seem to have had a chance to test the Xbox (and an understanding of the results). Hoping to avoid the Fury option.
> 
> 
> Is that still the consensus?
> 
> 
> When compared to other players (i.e. Samsung) with this XB1=>5040UBE image be the same or is there a loss of some kind?
> 
> 
> Will this setup support HDR viewing of Netflix/Amazon streaming?
> 
> 
> I know this has been discussed, but I'm trying to consolidate the XB1 information since I will be gaming and would prefer to have a single gaming machine and player.


I cant get HDR 4k to work at 24hz, 30hz, 50hz, 60hz. Dont even think about 50hz or 60hz HDR- IT WILL NEVER HAPPEN, which is sad. I think the oppo 203 will be our saviour but.

Id look at it this way regarding the projector. Im not sad about not having HDR. Im only sad I cant make it work because I love to tinker and I get obsessive believing I can fix anything! I cant fix HDR, I cant make it work. 
I'm more sad I dont have full native 4k with 3840 x 2160 real pixels. 
To me HDR is dead as long as I have the 6040ub/ 5040ub / tw9300. Its too much work and stress to make it happen. Its like the sdta6rs have to align for me/us to magically get HDR etc. There are a few lads on here that will be going bald with all the stress. Just relax and put a blu ray on set it to P3 and Cinema and enjoy! It looks great!


----------



## Smarty-pants

gnolivos said:


> HDMI port 2 certainly can handle 4K. Just not HDCP 2.2


Oh I didn't know that, but if it's HDMI 1.4, then it's probably limited to 4:2:0.
Not many devices that can put out that res and color space at 4K with HDCP 2.0.
I still don't know why they just didn't make it 4K/HDR/WCG/HDCP 2.2 compatible like port-1.
It's not like you can have two sources going at the same time, and port-2 could just use the same
path that port-1 does when it's not is use.


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> A NOTE ON SUPERWHITE EPSON SETTING.
> 
> I was watching Don't Breathe movie today via VuDu and it is a very dark movie. I noticed there was no detail on dark scenes. So I started messing with my already calibrated settings and noticed that when I turned super white off everything looked fine again. Big big difference. So just something to check guys... it is normal OFF by default but a while back I turned it on and recalibrated. That apparently was a bad idea.




So glad you posted. That's so strange cause I found the exact same thing recently. I posted a few pages ago about how super white ON looked much better. It made images slightly darker and blacks seemed to look better and color popped more. A couple reasons why I stuck with it ON:

1) when I calibrated with a Spears & Munsil disc I wasn't able to get all of the bars in the brightness test with super white OFF. When I turned it ON I was able to see all the bars so assumed this was the "proper" setting

2) on some content (can't remember which now but will test it out again) when I had super white OFF the picture seemed to change to a light haze or milky film look---looked much better with it ON

Now, I thought that it was probably cause I have some other settings that need to be tweaked to make the OFF setting look less milky/hazy. While I don't think I've found the perfect setting to achieve this I think I'm pretty close. I changed the gamma down to down one to zero from +1 and increased my iris setting to -12 (I had it at about -8). None of this has been professionally calibrated. 

The reason I started fiddling with the OFF setting is because I was also not seeing the detail in dark scenes. Turning it OFF was a delegation but want to make sure I still get good blacks while retaining detail. Will keep tweaking and respond with any improvements. 

On a separate topic, and this may sound really newbie-like, I keep fiddling with my focus as Im not sure I'm dialing it in perfectly. Sometimes while using the pattern button I think having the pixels look like small square boxes tells me I have it set right. Then other times it seems like having the pixels have a bit of "fringe", for lack of a better term, gives me a better picture. I'm sure there is a right or wrong as I can't imagine this would be subjective, but interested in feedback.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

hatlesschimp said:


> Huh? Blu ray is 1080p and 8 bit. What were you watching? Im yet to see any banding anywhere. I dont think its worthy throwing out there and scarring people.
> Put it this way. I used to own a Benq W1080st. It was beautiful to me when compared to the old optoma that i had. One day on the forums someone said But Rainbow Effect is horrible on these projectors and its total off putting etc. Well from then on I saw the RBE and had to retrain my brain not to see it during black scenes with white writing or highlights.




Quick question:. When I watch a Blu-ray from a PS4 on this pj it shows 12bit 4:4:4. Is that due to the 4k upscaling from the pj since Blu-ray is 8bit? If so, is that how I know the 4k scaling is working? Reason I'm asking is I can't tell a difference on Blu-ray material between turning 4k enhancement ON or OFF. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

hatlesschimp said:


> Huh? Blu ray is 1080p and 8 bit. What were you watching? Im yet to see any banding anywhere. I dont think its worthy throwing out there and scarring people.
> Put it this way. I used to own a Benq W1080st. It was beautiful to me when compared to the old optoma that i had. One day on the forums someone said But Rainbow Effect is horrible on these projectors and its total off putting etc. Well from then on I saw the RBE and had to retrain my brain not to see it during black scenes with white writing or highlights.




I did and a/b comparison while watching Don't Breath (great movie!!) on VUDU. One of the first few scenes has a fade in of a door. It showed clear banding. I switched to 1080 12 bit and it was gone. 

I also see banding in games running at 4K 8 bit. Any level on BF1 with fog shows obvious banding on the gradient. 

If you don't see it, good for you! But it is there and yes, it is a known fact that 8 bit gradients can and will show banding. Nothing new.


----------



## gnolivos

spirithockey79 said:


> So glad you posted. That's so strange cause I found the exact same thing recently. I posted a few pages ago about how super white ON looked much better. It made images slightly darker and blacks seemed to look better and color popped more. A couple reasons why I stuck with it ON:
> 
> 1) when I calibrated with a Spears & Munsil disc I wasn't able to get all of the bars in the brightness test with super white OFF. When I turned it ON I was able to see all the bars so assumed this was the "proper" setting
> 
> 2) on some content (can't remember which now but will test it out again) when I had super white OFF the picture seemed to change to a light haze or milky film look---looked much better with it ON
> 
> Now, I thought that it was probably cause I have some other settings that need to be tweaked to make the OFF setting look less milky/hazy. While I don't think I've found the perfect setting to achieve this I think I'm pretty close. I changed the gamma down to down one to zero from +1 and increased my iris setting to -12 (I had it at about -8). None of this has been professionally calibrated.
> 
> The reason I started fiddling with the OFF setting is because I was also not seeing the detail in dark scenes. Turning it OFF was a delegation but want to make sure I still get good blacks while retaining detail. Will keep tweaking and respond with any improvements.
> 
> On a separate topic, and this may sound really newbie-like, I keep fiddling with my focus as Im not sure I'm dialing it in perfectly. Sometimes while using the pattern button I think having the pixels look like small square boxes tells me I have it set right.  Then other times it seems like having the pixels have a bit of "fringe", for lack of a better term, gives me a better picture. I'm sure there is a right or wrong as I can't imagine this would be subjective, but interested in feedback.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



My advice is to set Super White OFF, and calibrate your brightness and contrast using Disney wow or similar. That's 80% of the needed tweaks imho. I'd use Cinema mode for it, if you are intending it for movies. Also set the lamp to low or med. 

Nothing else needs tweaking unless you are obsessive. This projector has some phenomenal color calibration on Cinema and a few other modes out of the box.


----------



## hatlesschimp

gnolivos said:


> I did and a/b comparison while watching Don't Breath (great movie!!) on VUDU. One of the first few scenes has a fade in of a door. It showed clear banding. I switched to 1080 12 bit and it was gone.
> 
> I also see banding in games running at 4K 8 bit. Any level on BF1 with fog shows obvious banding on the gradient.
> 
> If you don't see it, good for you! But it is there and yes, it is a known fact that 8 bit gradients can and will show banding. Nothing new.


I havent played with fog yet. I was wondering what you were playing was thinking a flight sim or GTA. I think with BF1 you want to be at 1080p anyway for the 60hz servers.


----------



## hatlesschimp

spirithockey79 said:


> Quick question:. When I watch a Blu-ray from a PS4 on this pj it shows 12bit 4:4:4. Is that due to the 4k upscaling from the pj since Blu-ray is 8bit? If so, is that how I know the 4k scaling is working? Reason I'm asking is I can't tell a difference on Blu-ray material between turning 4k enhancement ON or OFF.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I think the PS4 just reads between the lines and does what ever it can to boost it up. Half the reason why 4k looks not bad on the Epson even though its 1080p is it accepts a signal thats 4x the image size and jams it into less pixels. So the detail is there and kess aliasing. I do this on my HTC Vive too and it works. Whereas with 540p 720p material your less than the native image so detail cant be magically created. Its like digital zooming with a camera. Its never going to give you a better detailed picture as you zoom closer.


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> My advice is to set Super White OFF, and calibrate your brightness and contrast using Disney wow or similar. That's 80% of the needed tweaks imho. I'd use Cinema mode for it, if you are intending it for movies. Also set the lamp to low or med.
> 
> Nothing else needs tweaking unless you are obsessive. This projector has some phenomenal color calibration on Cinema and a few other modes out of the box.




Thanks. Was there ever 100% confirmation that the P3 filter works with Cinema? I recall some posts indicating that it was just for Digital Cinema? Because of that I have been using Digital Cinema and I remember that I thought it looked better when first choosing between the two. Just curious on why you prefer Cinema. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

spirithockey79 said:


> Thanks. Was there ever 100% confirmation that the P3 filter works with Cinema? I recall some posts indicating that it was just for Digital Cinema? Because of that I have been using Digital Cinema and I remember that I thought it looked better when first choosing between the two. Just curious on why you prefer Cinema.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Yes Cinema uses the P3 Filter. You can hear it mechanically engaging. I believe Digital Cinema uses it too. It is in the manual. 

I use Cinema only because I read pro calibrators were using it as starting point. I personally see Digital Cinema as very similar.


----------



## robc1976

hatlesschimp said:


> I cant get HDR 4k to work at 24hz, 30hz, 50hz, 60hz. Dont even think about 50hz or 60hz HDR- IT WILL NEVER HAPPEN, which is sad. I think the oppo 203 will be our saviour but.
> 
> Id look at it this way regarding the projector. Im not sad about not having HDR. Im only sad I cant make it work because I love to tinker and I get obsessive believing I can fix anything! I cant fix HDR, I cant make it work.
> I'm more sad I dont have full native 4k with 3840 x 2160 real pixels.
> To me HDR is dead as long as I have the 6040ub/ 5040ub / tw9300. Its too much work and stress to make it happen. Its like the sdta6rs have to align for me/us to magically get HDR etc. There are a few lads on here that will be going bald with all the stress. Just relax and put a blu ray on set it to P3 and Cinema and enjoy! It looks great!


I know I can't get HDR gaming on XB1S gaming but can with UHD BD via XB1S but I will be using seperate BD player. So only things I would gain with the UBE model is more bandwidth (don't real need it) and more inputs (I would never use that). I do like not having to run a full length HDMI but I am running a power cord same length so my 2 channel conduit would still be the same amount of work. That's why I am going 6040UB for the black case, extra warranty $ bulb. The mount I will give to Somone on here as I am using a chief low profile mount.

Way I see it, I have been gaming/BD watching on a 64" TV that is only 1080P and will be gaming/BD watching it on a 125" 4K. Will be a huge difference, but I totally understand the "it can be better I must tweak it, must have HDR attitude" because I am borderline obsessive with my sound. I actually built my room for the speakers more than the screen lol! 

From what I have been reading most don't care for the HDR as much on projectors, TV'S are another story.


----------



## hatlesschimp

robc1976 said:


> I know I can't get HDR gaming on XB1S gaming but can with UHD BD via XB1S but I will be using seperate BD player. So only things I would gain with the UBE model is more bandwidth (don't real need it) and more inputs (I would never use that). I do like not having to run a full length HDMI but I am running a power cord same length so my 2 channel conduit would still be the same amount of work. That's why I am going 6040UB for the black case, extra warranty $ bulb. The mount I will give to Somone on here as I am using a chief low profile mount.
> 
> Way I see it, I have been gaming/BD watching on a 64" TV that is only 1080P and will be gaming/BD watching it on a 125" 4K. Will be a huge difference, but I totally understand the "it can be better I must tweak it, must have HDR attitude" because I am borderline obsessive with my sound. I actually built my room for the speakers more than the screen lol!
> 
> From what I have been reading most don't care for the HDR as much on projectors, TV'S are another story.


If I was to buy a new tv it would have to have FULL HDR10, Dolby Vision & 4k with low input lag.


----------



## Sundodger

robc1976 said:


> I know I can't get HDR gaming on XB1S gaming but can with UHD BD via XB1S but I will be using seperate BD player. So only things I would gain with the UBE model is more bandwidth (don't real need it) and more inputs (I would never use that).
> 
> 
> 
> From what I have been reading most don't care for the HDR as much on projectors, TV'S are another story.



I was hoping to use the XB1S for gaming/streaming/BD, so am I able to get HDR via XB1S with the UBE? (enough acronyms for you?)


Ideally I'd have one player, but I can either spend the money on the UBE and use the XB1S for all, or spend the money on another BD/streaming player. Same amount of cash, just trying to spend it wisely.


I understand what you're saying about HDR on projectors, but figure I'd like to maximize my options.


----------



## robc1976

hatlesschimp said:


> If I was to buy a new tv it would have to have FULL HDR10, Dolby Vision & 4k with low input lag.


 before I went projection I was going to go with a 88" tv just like that.


----------



## robc1976

Sundodger said:


> I was hoping to use the XB1S for gaming/streaming/BD, so am I able to get HDR via XB1S with the UBE? (enough acronyms for you?)
> 
> 
> Ideally I'd have one player, but I can either spend the money on the UBE and use the XB1S for all, or spend the money on another BD/streaming player. Same amount of cash, just trying to spend it wisely.
> 
> 
> I understand what you're saying about HDR on projectors, but figure I'd like to maximize my options.


I am a total newb so I may get corrected. 

Easy version, XB1S sends a 60hz signal for gaming and UHD ect but with wireless UBE it turns it into the correct 24hz signal so it can play HDR.


----------



## c.kingsley

Waikis said:


> Is manual iris disabled in HDR mode?


No. I have mine at -2 for my HDR memory and -15 for bluray.


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> I also see banding in games running at 4K 8 bit. Any level on BF1 with fog shows obvious banding on the gradient.
> 
> If you don't see it, good for you! But it is there and yes, it is a known fact that 8 bit gradients can and will show banding. Nothing new.


I have played about 10 hours of BF1 and about 30 hours of various other games. I do not see banding at 4k 8bit anywhere. Are you running through a receiver or directly connected to the projector? Can you list off all your video settings on the XB1? Here are mine:

4k
Standard (not RGB)
24bit

I'm running through an Onkyo RZ-800 which does not do any signal processing or conversion. If you are using a receiver, make sure it is not doing any of its own scaling or chroma conversion. Perhaps you might temporarily bypass and test again.


----------



## k3nnis

Ckingsley is yours a UB or UBE? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## c.kingsley

k3nnis said:


> Ckingsley is yours a UB or UBE?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


UB, wired, running 4k60 4:2:0 8bit.


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks. Will getting the linker assist in anything for the wired 5040 wired?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Waikis

c.kingsley said:


> No. I have mine at -2 for my HDR memory and -15 for bluray.



That's what I thought too, but manual iris is blanked on mine when I checked it yesterday. I'm using bright mode.


----------



## PetrieLy

Would appreciate if some one could help me figure out which Chief RPA mount to purchase? There are so many versions of this, do they all fit?! A little confused.

CHIEF RPA-U Ceiling Mount $138~
CHIEF RPMAU RPA Elite Universal Projector Mount with Keyed Locking $159~
Chief Universal Mini Elite Projector Mount - RSMAUW - Ceiling mount for Projector $145~

Which one is the best for the Epson 5040ub and the most future proof? Thanks!


----------



## am2model3

I just read online that hdmi 1.3 and 1.4 both have had 10.2gbps capabilities for years. Hdmi 2.0 increased that to 18gbps
The fact that products get made with hdmi 2.0 listed yet with 10.2 and/or sometimes 18 chipsets is disappointing.


----------



## gnolivos

c.kingsley said:


> I have played about 10 hours of BF1 and about 30 hours of various other games. I do not see banding at 4k 8bit anywhere. Are you running through a receiver or directly connected to the projector? Can you list off all your video settings on the XB1? Here are mine:
> 
> 4k
> Standard (not RGB)
> 24bit
> 
> I'm running through an Onkyo RZ-800 which does not do any signal processing or conversion. If you are using a receiver, make sure it is not doing any of its own scaling or chroma conversion. Perhaps you might temporarily bypass and test again.




Well I am on a PS4 pro. I get 8 bit at 4K. You? There is definitely banding as expected at 8 bit.


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> Well I am on a PS4 pro. I get 8 bit at 4K. You? There is definitely banding as expected at 8 bit.


I'm playing on an XB1S. There is no banding.


----------



## c.kingsley

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks. Will getting the linker assist in anything for the wired 5040 wired?


No, I don't think so. If you want to strip HDR from UHD it will work for that. I just don't find it user friendly enough to leave connected full time.


----------



## k3nnis

c.kingsley said:


> No, I don't think so. If you want to strip HDR from UHD it will work for that. I just don't find it user friendly enough to leave connected full time.




Ok thanks. I'm still trying to understand what will the UBE give me over the UB for a Xbox one S / PS4 pro?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

hatlesschimp said:


> I think Super White looks like puss!


Well, that's definitely an outcome that depends on your perspective! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

hatlesschimp said:


> If I was to buy a new tv it would have to have FULL HDR10, Dolby Vision & 4k with low input lag.


Like my Vizio P. But, I agree that, as said, HDR is probably not much of a deal on HDR. WCG is a different story. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Ronman79 said:


> Well, that's definitely an outcome that depends on your perspective!
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


I was expecting something spectacular "Super White". Lol. I just leave it off. Really need me screen to arrive before I calibrate. No point on an off white wall lol.
I bought my mate a projector a while back for his wedding and when we were testing it on his wall to check what screen size he wanted he was like I dont need a screen this looks great! - his walls were mocha! 😂 lets just say my mate is not known for buying rounds of drinks when its his turn Lol.


----------



## Smarty-pants

hatlesschimp said:


> I was expecting something spectacular "Super White". Lol. I just leave it off. Really need me screen to arrive before I calibrate. No point on an off white wall lol.
> I bought my mate a projector a while back for his wedding and when we were testing it on his wall to check what screen size he wanted he was like I dont need a screen this looks great! - his walls were mocha! 😂 lets just say my mate is not known for buying rounds of drinks when its his turn Lol.


It's funny how great you think something like that looks when you are on your very first projector,
and for many people you are usually on a tight budget your first time around.
So you have a middle or low end pj and cheapo screen.

My first pj which was an Epson 1080i model. I actually still have it in storage and keep it as a backup if
whatever I am currently using at the time goes out or whatever I might need it for.
At this point, it's so old, I will probably get it out and let the kids use it for games or backyard movies or something.
Anyway, I remember my first screen was made of "blackout cloth" from the local fabric store.
It actually didn't look bad at all, but I remember it looking like the best thing I'd ever seen aside from a pair of great tits. 

I also used a white wall before and painted it with Killz paint and it really did look good.
The screen I used to replace the temporary wall wasn't cheap, and I actually think the white wall looked about the same PQ wise.
Just ask @MississippiMan about painted walls, He knows all about that stuff.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

upgraded my 8 years old receiver to new one (Onkyo TX-RZ710). I tested the HDR on my PS4 (not pro) & I was able to upscale the signal from the receiver to 4K & getting the HDR signal. Dont feel the urge to upgrade to PS4 Pro now guess this setup will do.


----------



## ht guy

Lucidthinker said:


> Yes. This unit has motorized lens for zoom, focus, and shift with lens memory. So, at a touch of a button you can switch from 2.35 to 16.9.


So what would be the difference between that and (assuming your source can do vertical stretch) using an anamorphic lens? Quality? Light off the screen?


----------



## NoTechi

ana_moo_ana said:


> upgraded my 8 years old receiver to new one (Onkyo TX-RZ710). I tested the HDR on my PS4 (not pro) & I was able to upscale the signal from the receiver to 4K & getting the HDR signal. Dont feel the urge to upgrade to PS4 Pro now guess this setup will do.




Could someone with a pro and a capable Receiver do the same and let us know if there is a noticable difference 4k passtrhough vs 4k Receiver upscaled and HDR please 


I just have a XBox One S so far and and really happy with it but on the other hand I am also looking to find reasons to also buy the PS4 pro 



Update question: After thinking this over ... does HDR with just 8bit makes sense? I always thought HDR requires 10bit.

NoTechi


----------



## dotorg

k3nnis said:


> So for Xbox one S or PS4 gaming which is 60hz there will be whining with 4K enhancement?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Interestingly, I get a slight whining when I feed a 60hz 4K signal to the projector but *not* when I feed a 60hz 1080P signal with 4K enhancement on. Makes no damn sense, but when I first noticed the whine after upgrading my XB1 to an XB1S, I did some A/B testing and it was very consistent... a slight (quiet) whine when getting a native 4K signal, none with 4K enhancement. 

Its no louder, just a different pitch, than the fan noise, so it was more of a "huh" thing than something I found annoying.


----------



## gnolivos

gnolivos said:


> Well I think I have some terrible news that no one has mentioned here before.
> 
> If I am interpreting the information posted on the Sony PlayStation website correctly, the combination of a PS4 Pro and the Epson 5040 will never produce anything higher than 1080 P!!!
> 
> Epson 5040 is considered a 2K projector (as noted on the PlayStation 4 video settings information screen). So the table here says 1080p no matter what.
> 
> Please tell me this is not true... (slaps forehead)
> 
> Source: http://blog.us.playstation.com/2016/09/08/ps4-pro-the-ultimate-faq/




Not a single response on this major finding. No one concerned about this?!! IT SEEMS WE CANNOT GET 4K AT ALL ON THIS PROJECTOR WITH A PS4 PRO. Comments?


----------



## dotorg

c.kingsley said:


> I'm playing on an XB1S. There is no banding.


You shouldn't get banding in games if everything in the chain is 8-bit -- the video renderer basically dithers the output to blend them out when you're only outputting 8-bit. You'll see it if you switch the console to 10 or 12 bit and have something like an AVR that is converting it back to 8-bit, because the console don't do the blending itself and the AVR strips the low-order bits out and you suddenly get banding. Same would be true if you use an HD Fury to trick the Xbox into thinking it can get more data to your screen than it can... you can trick it into enabling HDR, for example, but you'll start to get banding because it thinks it can get 10-bit color, too. 

That's the reason why the docs tell you to not switch the HDMI to 10 or 12 bit (or PC color space, for that matter) if you don't know for absolutely certain that all of your gear supports it.

You'll still see banding in movies, though, because the Xbox isn't rendering that. A 10-bit source is truncated to 8-bit in the player, and you get banding... but its likely only noticeable in things like smooth skies, etc.


----------



## gnolivos

dotorg said:


> You shouldn't get banding in games if everything in the chain is 8-bit -- the video renderer basically dithers the output to blend them out when you're only outputting 8-bit. You'll see it if you switch the console to 10 or 12 bit and have something like an AVR that is converting it back to 8-bit, because the console don't do the blending itself and the AVR strips the low-order bits out and you suddenly get banding. Same would be true if you use an HD Fury to trick the Xbox into thinking it can get more data to your screen than it can... you can trick it into enabling HDR, for example, but you'll start to get banding because it thinks it can get 10-bit color, too.
> 
> 
> 
> That's the reason why the docs tell you to not switch the HDMI to 10 or 12 bit (or PC color space, for that matter) if you don't know for absolutely certain that all of your gear supports it.
> 
> 
> 
> You'll still see banding in movies, though, because the Xbox isn't rendering that. A 10-bit source is truncated to 8-bit in the player, and you get banding... but its likely only noticeable in things like smooth skies, etc.




I'll do some testing on this. I'm going through a Yamaha AVR but with pass through on HDMI. I definitely get banding in 8 bit feed at 4K. No banding on 12 bit at 1080. 

For example the Amazon app on PS4 has a black background with a slight gradient. It shows banding and it's awful.


----------



## dotorg

Sundodger said:


> Based on what I've read throughout this thread it sounds like I can view 4k and HDR through the Xbox One S if I get the 5040UBE (I just received the UB, but haven't unpacked it yet). Hatlesschimp, you seem to have had a chance to test the Xbox (and an understanding of the results). Hoping to avoid the Fury option.
> 
> 
> Is that still the consensus?


With the WirelessHD link and 24fps UHD BluRays, that is the case. No other source, as far as I can tell, will go down to 24fps no matter what the source material is, so Netflix and other sources, you will not. Its *only* the BluRay player. I think MS Video goes through the same pipeline, so its *possible* if they ever started offering 4K purchases or rentals it *might* work there, but it doesn't anywhere else. I actually double checked that yesterday -- everything else comes out 60fps (like Vudu, which has 4K rentals). 

For gaming you'll get 4K, and it'll do a (very nice) upscaling of the HDMI input to 4K, but its 60fps 4:2:0, no HDR. (Which is a damn shame, the most impressive uses of HDR I've ever seen have been games like Forza Horizons 3). 

If you run over HDMI (I have mine hooked up both ways, so its easy to A/B test) you get the 4K gaming, but no HDR in the BluRay player because it mandates 4:4:4 and there's no bandwidth for it. 

So if you want the Xbox for UHD playback, IMO, you pretty much need to get the UBe. If you're just using it for gaming, it doesn't matter at all, because you can't get HDR no matter what. In my testing, that's true of every other thing I've tried -- like the Chromecast Ultra -- as well. The Xbox seems to be one of the few devices that functionally changes with the slightly better bandwidth of the wireless link. Everything else either just works, or just does't work (the majority being the latter if you're talking about HDR).


----------



## dotorg

gnolivos said:


> I'll do some testing on this. I'm going through a Yamaha AVR but with pass through on HDMI. I definitely get banding in 8 bit feed at 4K. No banding on 12 bit at 1080.
> 
> For example the Amazon app on PS4 has a black background with a slight gradient. It shows banding and it's awful.


Well, I was responding to a comment about the XB1... That's a platform I have deep internal knowledge of, I don't know much about the PS4. I'd expect it works the same way with gaming, and likely the same with video, though. It comes down to the same thing -- if your source material (output of your 3D renderer, streaming video, etc) was rendered/mastered 8-bit, you shouldn't get banding because the system should've dithered out the transitions. If the source material is greater than 8-bit you'll get banding. (The same is true with 12->10bit, but the bands will be so fine I'd bet you couldn't pick them out...) Its strange to see banding in an app -- maybe the Amazon app is asking for a smooth gradient from the renderer and the renderer thinks the output is 10-bit, so its not smoothing the gradient? Or maybe the PS4's graphics subsystem doesn't do that kind of smoothing, but that'd be bizarre in 2016.


----------



## k3nnis

dotorg said:


> With the WirelessHD link and 24fps UHD BluRays, that is the case. No other source, as far as I can tell, will go down to 24fps no matter what the source material is, so Netflix and other sources, you will not. Its *only* the BluRay player. I think MS Video goes through the same pipeline, so its *possible* if they ever started offering 4K purchases or rentals it *might* work there, but it doesn't anywhere else. I actually double checked that yesterday -- everything else comes out 60fps (like Vudu, which has 4K rentals).
> 
> 
> 
> For gaming you'll get 4K, and it'll do a (very nice) upscaling of the HDMI input to 4K, but its 60fps 4:2:0, no HDR. (Which is a damn shame, the most impressive uses of HDR I've ever seen have been games like Forza Horizons 3).
> 
> 
> 
> If you run over HDMI (I have mine hooked up both ways, so its easy to A/B test) you get the 4K gaming, but no HDR in the BluRay player because it mandates 4:4:4 and there's no bandwidth for it.
> 
> 
> 
> So if you want the Xbox for UHD playback, IMO, you pretty much need to get the UBe. If you're just using it for gaming, it doesn't matter at all, because you can't get HDR no matter what. In my testing, that's true of every other thing I've tried -- like the Chromecast Ultra -- as well. The Xbox seems to be one of the few devices that functionally changes with the slightly better bandwidth of the wireless link. Everything else either just works, or just does't work (the majority being the latter if you're talking about HDR).



Ok thx. So to get HDR gaming from x1s and PS4 pro @4k both wired and wireless Epson won't work? Even with the linker?

So I'm better off to buy a led tv? Say 55" or 65".


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dotorg

k3nnis said:


> Ok thx. So to get HDR gaming from x1s and PS4 pro @4k both wired and wireless Epson won't work? Even with the linker?
> 
> So I'm better off to buy a led tv? Say 55" or 65".
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You can make it "work", but only "work".. You'll trick the console into outputting HDR data, at 60fps and 4K, but you can't get that data to the projector. I'm not sure what conversions you can do to it to get the bandwidth low enough -- if an HD Fury can go from 4K->1080P, that's probably your best bet, and let the projector re-upscale it. Given the console is rendering 1080P anyway, I think that's probably fine. But you're going to spend as much on the HD Fury as you will on the console... and half the price of a TV that would work just fine. If it was me, and HDR gaming was my priority (over movie/TV watching) I wouldn't have bought the 5040, and would've gone with a TV. But the fact that I game on the screen is more to make better use of a dedicated HT space, so that's secondary. (A lot of games kinda suck to play on a huge screen anyway.)

So "work" depends on what you define as working. You can get the system to get a BT2020/HDR signal to the projector, its up to you if what that signal consists of is "good enough" or not.


----------



## Kelvin1000

gnolivos said:


> Not a single response on this major finding. No one concerned about this?!! IT SEEMS WE CANNOT GET 4K AT ALL ON THIS PROJECTOR WITH A PS4 PRO. Comments?



My PS4 Pro definitely outputs [email protected] SDR to my Epson 5040ub and it looks amazing:


----------



## Threefiddie

ana_moo_ana said:


> upgraded my 8 years old receiver to new one (Onkyo TX-RZ710). I tested the HDR on my PS4 (not pro) & I was able to upscale the signal from the receiver to 4K & getting the HDR signal. Dont feel the urge to upgrade to PS4 Pro now guess this setup will do.


you're still missing out on the benefit of the pro with making games look better on it's own. You are really do nothing different with the receiver upscaling to 4k that the xbox one s doesn't already do itself. which is about next to nothing.



gnolivos said:


> Not a single response on this major finding. No one concerned about this?!! IT SEEMS WE CANNOT GET 4K AT ALL ON THIS PROJECTOR WITH A PS4 PRO. Comments?


have you not read anything in the two threads you posted it in?


----------



## gnolivos

Threefiddie said:


> you're still missing out on the benefit of the pro with making games look better on it's own. You are really do nothing different with the receiver upscaling to 4k that the xbox one s doesn't already do itself. which is about next to nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have you not read anything in the two threads you posted it in?




That was a mistake. I posted on the other thread by mistake but I never ever follow that one for reasons I won't get into. I tried to delete that post but it won't let me. 

Anyway, there was not a single response on THIS thread until now...

Is it possible that the Sony documentation is wrong then? Or perhaps is it possible it is indeed downscaling to a 1080p tender and piping it through a 2160p band?


----------



## gnolivos

ana_moo_ana said:


> upgraded my 8 years old receiver to new one (Onkyo TX-RZ710). I tested the HDR on my PS4 (not pro) & I was able to upscale the signal from the receiver to 4K & getting the HDR signal. Dont feel the urge to upgrade to PS4 Pro now guess this setup will do.




If you care at all about frame per second rendering, consider the pro. It has more power and more memory. Games will start taking advantage of this. Some older ones already do.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Threefiddie said:


> you're still missing out on the benefit of the pro with making games look better on it's own. You are really do nothing different with the receiver upscaling to 4k that the xbox one s doesn't already do itself. which is about next to nothing.


not sure how xbox one is related here. Im simply saying that u can enjoy HDR on ur non pro PS4 & make the receiver (or the projector) upscale the signal to 4K (PS4 cant output 4K)




gnolivos said:


> If you care at all about frame per second rendering, consider the pro. It has more power and more memory. Games will start taking advantage of this. Some older ones already do.



Im planning to, but now I can wait till Horizon Zero Dawn, maybe bundle deal


----------



## gnolivos

Am I the only one getting '2k' device in the PS4 Pro display info screen? Can you guys check?


----------



## Threefiddie

ana_moo_ana said:


> not sure how xbox one is related here. Im simply saying that u can enjoy HDR on ur non pro PS4 & make the receiver (or the projector) upscale the signal to 4K (PS4 cant output 4K)


it was a correlation example. the xbox one s upscales to 4k. ps4 doesn't. you're making the receiver do it. there for it's about same thing. next to nothing but yeah you get hdr.


----------



## Lucidthinker

ht guy said:


> So what would be the difference between that and (assuming your source can do vertical stretch) using an anamorphic lens? Quality? Light off the screen?


The topic of the zoom method vs. anamorphic lens has been discussed in a ton of threads in this forum. But, in summary here are the pros/cons of each approach (apologies ahead of time if I missed something):

Anamorphic lens:
PROS:
- Use all of the pixels available on the lcd/dlp panel
- Brighter image
- No light spill outside the screen frame
CONS:
- Very Expensive (4 figures)
- The projector/processor/source needs to stretch the image vertically (possible loss in quality) and then the lens will stretch it horizontally. This stretching vertically and then horizontally can only make the image worse (optical distortions - chromatic aberration, rainbow effect), if it all goes perfectly well, it should be just as good.
- The light may not spread as uniformly unless the screen is curved (which are more expensive)
- Pincushion distortion (which can be cured with a curved screen)

Zoom feature:
PROS:
- Cheap
- No added distortions
CONS:
- Loss in brightness
- larger pixels due to zooming
- "black" letterbox bars project above and below the screen

IMHO, with advent of super bright, quasi 4K projectors like the Epson 5040/6040, the disadvantages of the zoom method have been mitigated to a large degree (e.g. higher pixel density and a ton of lumens). 5 years ago it was a totally different given the state of projector technology at that time.


----------



## achanonier

Hi Guys

After returning My Samung K8500 I'm getting the new Panasonic UB700 wich should behave like the UB900.

Is there a general concensus fir UD HDR movies ?

Is it better to convert to SDR or watch in HDR with the average brightness loss ?
If using HDR what are your setup to get the image pop a little more ?

THX !


----------



## dotorg

Lucidthinker said:


> The topic of the zoom method vs. anamorphic lens has been discussed in a ton of threads in this forum. But, in summary here are the pros/cons of each approach (apologies ahead of time if I missed something):
> 
> Anamorphic lens:
> PROS:
> - Use all of the pixels available on the lcd/dlp panel


I don't believe the UHD BluRay format includes support for anamorphic content, so I'm not sure there's any 4K sources where you're going to get those pixels, anyway. The projector may stretch the incoming signal to fill the panel, but you're not creating information when it does that, so you're not gaining anything. 

It was different back in the days of DVD when you'd get more pixels out of a 720x480 screen. With BluRay the only anamorphic format supportec IIRC is 1440x1080, so you aren't gaining any pixels if you have an anamorphic lens to do 2.35:1, and UHD doesn't even support that. If the source "ultra-wide" material (2.35:1 or otherwise) isn't using all 1080 or 2160 lines of resolution, you're not actually going to gain anything to stretch whatever it is using to the panel's resolution. 

TL;DR -- I don't think anamorphic has made sense related to panel resolution since the "normal" aspect ratio switched to 16:9 and the HD and UHD formats never supported anamorphic encoding of wider materials in a 16:9 frame.


----------



## achristians

If anyone is interested in a good deal on a 6040 pm me. Thx


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> I have played about 10 hours of BF1 and about 30 hours of various other games. I do not see banding at 4k 8bit anywhere. Are you running through a receiver or directly connected to the projector? Can you list off all your video settings on the XB1? Here are mine:
> 
> 4k
> Standard (not RGB)
> 24bit
> 
> I'm running through an Onkyo RZ-800 which does not do any signal processing or conversion. If you are using a receiver, make sure it is not doing any of its own scaling or chroma conversion. Perhaps you might temporarily bypass and test again.



I believe "Standard" is still RGB. That just signifies that the digital video range is 16-235. The PC RGB setting expands that to 0-255. The XB1S only outputs RGB.


----------



## gnolivos

So I just checked the PS4 video info screen again. It says resolution is 3840x2160. 
It was the HDR info that states 2K support only (1080).
That puts my mind at ease. The PS4 definitely sees the 5040 as a true 4K projector (which we all know it is really not)


----------



## ana_moo_ana

I noticed after installing the new receiver that UHD disks (via Philips) can no longer play at 4K/60fps. I checked the settings on both the receiver & player with no luck, I even connect the player directly to the projector with no luck. Im start wondering that if it was outputting 4k/60fps before (which Im sure it did). Any idea what might be the reason here?


----------



## Sundodger

dotorg said:


> With the WirelessHD link and 24fps UHD BluRays, that is the case. No other source, as far as I can tell, will go down to 24fps no matter what the source material is, so Netflix and other sources, you will not. Its *only* the BluRay player. I think MS Video goes through the same pipeline, so its *possible* if they ever started offering 4K purchases or rentals it *might* work there, but it doesn't anywhere else. I actually double checked that yesterday -- everything else comes out 60fps (like Vudu, which has 4K rentals).
> 
> For gaming you'll get 4K, and it'll do a (very nice) upscaling of the HDMI input to 4K, but its 60fps 4:2:0, no HDR. (Which is a damn shame, the most impressive uses of HDR I've ever seen have been games like Forza Horizons 3).
> 
> If you run over HDMI (I have mine hooked up both ways, so its easy to A/B test) you get the 4K gaming, but no HDR in the BluRay player because it mandates 4:4:4 and there's no bandwidth for it.
> 
> So if you want the Xbox for UHD playback, IMO, you pretty much need to get the UBe. If you're just using it for gaming, it doesn't matter at all, because you can't get HDR no matter what. In my testing, that's true of every other thing I've tried -- like the Chromecast Ultra -- as well. The Xbox seems to be one of the few devices that functionally changes with the slightly better bandwidth of the wireless link. Everything else either just works, or just does't work (the majority being the latter if you're talking about HDR).




That is a great summary dotorg, thank you. It sounds like even if I used another streaming device (i.e. Samsung 8500) I still wouldn't be able to get Netflix HDR anyway. I think the combo of UBE and XB1 S will get me everything that the other players would (4k/HDR BD, 4k streaming, 4k gaming) since I couldn't get HDR gaming anyway with the 5040, right?


(also, I know that this is "4k")


----------



## pnw

*Understanding the 5040 with limited time to test*

1. So I now understand the 5040/6040 will not support streaming HDR at 4k 60p...but what does it do when presented with a 4k 60p HDR signal?

2. Haven't seen many comments about WCG...are there any additional issues at higher frame rates? I assume the 5040 has some limitations but, in your opinion, is WCG performance "close enough"?

3. What would be your "4 hour acid test routine" for the 5040 vs a 5030? (I currently own a fairly new 5030 and have a 5040 unopened...I can run the 5040 for up to 4 hours and still receive a 100% refund if it isn't that much better than my 5030.)


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ana_moo_ana said:


> I noticed after installing the new receiver that UHD disks (via Philips) can no longer play at 4K/60fps. I checked the settings on both the receiver & player with no luck, I even connect the player directly to the projector with no luck. Im start wondering that if it was outputting 4k/60fps before (which Im sure it did). Any idea what might be the reason here?




ok, it seems it was never outputting [email protected] According to projector central it's not compatible with HDR [email protected] only 24fps. Strange, I was under the impressing it does!


----------



## bezlar

I've borrowed a jvc 500 from a friend of mine. I'm going to do a quick compare. He is in the business so I can get this at his cost. I've already bought the epson 5040 and have been enjoying it for a week. I always wanted a jvc but never wanted to pay the price. Well I've played with the jvc just a few minutes so this might change, but after viewing Lucy in uhd I think the epson has more pop. My eyes are 45 years old so maybe they aren't as golden as some but after first impressions I'll keep the epson even with its limited bandwidth hdmi. I'll update this later when I get more time with both. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> I believe "Standard" is still RGB. That just signifies that the digital video range is 16-235. The PC RGB setting expands that to 0-255. The XB1S only outputs RGB.


100% correct. When it is plugged into the Linker I can validate that it is RGB regardless of Standard/RGB setting. Video levels it is...


----------



## bezlar

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## EveryGlenn17

Savatage316 said:


> dataJunkie said:
> 
> 
> 
> I understand what you're referring to, and the two games that I tried ... Ratchet & Clank and TLOU both asked me upon initial startup that it has detected a HDR Compatible display and if I would like to enable HDR.
> 
> The same option can also be enabled via the options screen of both games seperately also ..
> 
> Hope this helps...
> 
> Are you directly connected to the Projector or are you hooked up to an AV receiver too?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running thru a Denon S910W, and that's the thing.. Not sure if maybe there's an option there that's needing to be turned on. See for me all this new stuff is just insanely new to me, I been buying it all for years but it was just easier 5 to 10+ back. I rolled over one day and it's 4k this, hdr that, dynamic range, hdpc 2.2, I mean it was a colossal explosion of new terms and tech so when I upgraded I knew there was still a lot to learn.
> 
> My pro is set to automatic, so it would make sense that everything is on automatically. I mean I get gorgeous pictures, that's the beauty of it all.. But I'm not sure what hdr looks like yet, so that's why I'm not sure if I'm seeing 1080p at 2k hdr or if I'm seeing 1080p with just 4k enhancements.
> 
> But when I look in options in games like uncharted, hdr is what appears to be off... When I click it on in options it's when my screen goes pink. Turn it off and it's back to normal. So I'm just tryin to understand what I'm dealing with.
Click to expand...


I think what may be the issue is that you have the ps4 set to 1080p (unless I misunderstood your earlier post). 

The ps4pro should be set to auto for the resolution too. Then when you enable hdr in a game it will change the resolution from 4k/sdr to 1080p/HDR automatically. At least that's what works for me.

You can also see what's going on by checking the projector info screen to see your resolution and color bit/HDR.


----------



## c.kingsley

ana_moo_ana said:


> ok, it seems it was never outputting [email protected] According to projector central it's not compatible with HDR [email protected] only 24fps. Strange, I was under the impressing it does!


If it played back at 4k60 it was 8bit SDR. Make sure you set like this:

Resolution: 4K
4k/60p Output: 4K/60p(4:4:4)*
24p Output : Auto
Deep Color: Auto
HDR: Auto

* - this is the right setting for this player, it will drop a 4:2:0 when necessary (can verify on Epson info screen).

Also, a major note for anyone with the Philips player, make sure you *disable *BD-Video Secondary Audio (off). By default this setting is on. When it is on all of the audio is downmixed to either dolby digital or dts. You will not get DTS Master, TrueHD or Atmos with this setting at default!


----------



## c.kingsley

joel dickman said:


> *Am I correct in thinking that I can use the 4K enhancement feature of the Epson, OR the frame interpolation feature, but not both at the same time?*


Correct.


----------



## gnolivos

joel dickman said:


> Suppose I pop an ordinary 1080p Blu Ray disc into an ordinary 1080p Blu Ray disc player and hook it up to an Epson 5040 projector. _NOT_ a UHD 4K disc in a new UHD 4K player - just a garden variety Blu Ray in my old disc player...
> 
> *Am I correct in thinking that I can use the 4K enhancement feature of the Epson, OR the frame interpolation feature, but not both at the same time?*
> 
> Is this also true when playing 4K UHD discs in a new 4K UHD player?
> 
> Thanks in advance, and Happy Viewing,
> Joel Dickman




Actually in your example you will be able to use both. It's practically the only situation where you can!

I will elaborate. Because Blu-ray video is a 24 Hz feed, and is also not a 4K feed, the Epson will allow you to enable both.

As for UHD players, they will feed a 4K signal. The 4K enhancement WILL automatically be enabled of course... but you cannot enable FI. (Of this last piece I am not 100% certain, but it is what I recall from my own testing and others' input as well).


----------



## avsBuddy

bezlar said:


> I've borrowed a jvc 500 from a friend of mine. I'm going to do a quick compare. He is in the business so I can get this at his cost. I've already bought the epson 5040 and have been enjoying it for a week. I always wanted a jvc but never wanted to pay the price. Well I've played with the jvc just a few minutes so this might change, but after viewing Lucy in uhd I think the epson has more pop. My eyes are 45 years old so maybe they aren't as golden as some but after first impressions I'll keep the epson even with its limited bandwidth hdmi. I'll update this later when I get more time with both.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm interested in your observations. I had a chance to compare JVC 550R to Epson 6040 at a dealer, though not under ideal conditions.
JVC was un calibrated, projecting to a nice expensive Stewart screen driven by Samsung UHD Blue Ray. Epson was somewhat calibrated by their rep, projecting to an in-house brand screen driven by a Philips UHD BlueRay. Even though they were in two different rooms, I was able to use Martian BluRay to compare both projectors. JVC had slightly better blacks and absolutely no screen door effect when standing 2 feet from screen. Epson had visible pixels when at the 2 feet distance, but not an issue from the normal seating position. In the end, my brother and I preferred Epson by a big margin. JVC might have better blacks, but black is just one of millions colors. Epson had a much more natural picture, while having a "film" look. JVC looked very "digital" with loss of color, shadow detail. I played with gamma presets, brightness etc, but no lamp control. And while I was able to improve the picture of JVC a little bit - it was still crashing details in shadows, even with brightness up it was like saturation was applied and then washed out. It's something you think looks better in a showroom, but once you spend a bit of time with it, as I did, you realize it's not a natural picture. JVC also had this annoying delay when going from Blue Ray menu and the movie - it would blank out for what seemed like 20 seconds. Or it would go blank when you just insert the disk and you can hear menu music but no picture yet. JVC was on a deep refurbished discount making it the same price as 5040! I was very close to pulling the trigger on it, as it's touted to be so much superior to Epson here and on the JVC thread - and I was so set on buying my first projector.

In the end, I bought neither and walked out. I did not like JVC, and the Epson's limitation of not being able to support all 4k formats reminded me of the first HDTVs in the early 2000, which where quickly superseded by TV sets that supported full HD format. I'm also waiting for Sony to finally release an affordable 4k projector which should drive the prices down across the board. So I'll wait a bit more.


----------



## hatlesschimp

One of these might help the HDR cause.


----------



## robc1976

PetrieLy said:


> Would appreciate if some one could help me figure out which Chief RPA mount to purchase? There are so many versions of this, do they all fit?! A little confused.
> 
> CHIEF RPA-U Ceiling Mount $138~
> CHIEF RPMAU RPA Elite Universal Projector Mount with Keyed Locking $159~
> Chief Universal Mini Elite Projector Mount - RSMAUW - Ceiling mount for Projector $145~
> 
> Which one is the best for the Epson 5040ub and the most future proof? Thanks!


I read in a thread a guy used this for his 5040 ava its a low profile mount, puts viewing screen at 8 1/4" at center of lens. It didn't have the 5040 or 6040 in the compatibility drop down though? Hmmmm

http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/RSMAU


----------



## Dave Harper

bezlar said:


> I've borrowed a jvc 500 from a friend of mine. I'm going to do a quick compare. He is in the business so I can get this at his cost. I've already bought the epson 5040 and have been enjoying it for a week. I always wanted a jvc but never wanted to pay the price. Well I've played with the jvc just a few minutes so this might change, but after viewing Lucy in uhd I think the epson has more pop. My eyes are 45 years old so maybe they aren't as golden as some but after first impressions I'll keep the epson even with its limited bandwidth hdmi. I'll update this later when I get more time with both.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I think you're making a mistake from all I've seen, heard and read.



hatlesschimp said:


> One of these might help the HDR cause.



Oooooohhhhh, gimme gimme!!!


----------



## Hawkmarket

avsBuddy said:


> I'm interested in your observations. I had a chance to compare JVC 550R to Epson 6040 at a dealer, though not under ideal conditions.
> JVC was un calibrated, projecting to a nice expensive Stewart screen driven by Samsung UHD Blue Ray. Epson was somewhat calibrated by their rep, projecting to an in-house brand screen driven by a Philips UHD BlueRay. Even though they were in two different rooms, I was able to use Martian BluRay to compare both projectors. JVC had slightly better blacks and absolutely no screen door effect when standing 2 feet from screen. Epson had visible pixels when at the 2 feet distance, but not an issue from the normal seating position. In the end, my brother and I preferred Epson by a big margin. JVC might have better blacks, but black is just one of millions colors. Epson had a much more natural picture, while having a "film" look. JVC looked very "digital" with loss of color, shadow detail. I played with gamma presets, brightness etc, but no lamp control. And while I was able to improve the picture of JVC a little bit - it was still crashing details in shadows, even with brightness up it was like saturation was applied and then washed out. It's something you think looks better in a showroom, but once you spend a bit of time with it, as I did, you realize it's not a natural picture. JVC also had this annoying delay when going from Blue Ray menu and the movie - it would blank out for what seemed like 20 seconds. Or it would go blank when you just insert the disk and you can hear menu music but no picture yet. JVC was on a deep refurbished discount making it the same price as 5040! I was very close to pulling the trigger on it, as it's touted to be so much superior to Epson here and on the JVC thread - and I was so set on buying my first projector.
> 
> In the end, I bought neither and walked out. I did not like JVC, and the Epson's limitation of not being able to support all 4k formats reminded me of the first HDTVs in the early 2000, which where quickly superseded by TV sets that supported full HD format. *I'm also waiting for Sony to finally release an affordable 4k projector* which should drive the prices down across the board. So I'll wait a bit more.



That is going to be a VERY long wait. Nobody is more proud of their name than Sony. They will be the very last to lower their prices vs. their competitors and will never drive the market down in cost.


I also had the same experience as you did seeing the 6040 vs. JVC 400. Just liked the look of the Epson better.


----------



## dotorg

Sundodger said:


> That is a great summary dotorg, thank you. It sounds like even if I used another streaming device (i.e. Samsung 8500) I still wouldn't be able to get Netflix HDR anyway. I think the combo of UBE and XB1 S will get me everything that the other players would (4k/HDR BD, 4k streaming, 4k gaming) since I couldn't get HDR gaming anyway with the 5040, right?
> 
> 
> (also, I know that this is "4k")


Well, the answer is, it kinda depends. Right now, you get almost nothing with the XB1S. There are only two sources of "real" 4K on it -- Netflix (without HDR) and UHD BluRay discs (with HDR, as long as you have the UBe). None of the other apps are 4K yet. Vudu is supposed to be "soon", but isn't yet. YouTube isn't, and frankly may never be. (YouTube on the XB1 is an Edge browser control pointing at tv.youtube.com, and tv.youtube.com doesn't support it... and Google has always gone out of the way to prevent things like that from working on MS's devices.) Amazon is not 4K yet, and they've said nothing about when it will be. 

I still end up streaming YouTube on my Chromecast Ultra because you actually can get 4K (even if you can't get HDR, because it locks to 60fps, too). Vudu is apparently 4K on the Ultra, too, but there's no built-in way to confirm that, because the Ultra upscales everything to 4K. (Which sucks, you could spend $10 on a rental and not know.) Biggest downside of the Ultra is no Amazon support. 

Unfortunately Microsoft can't force app vendors to upgrade their software, so although MS *really* wanted to push the 4K thing before the PS4 Pro came out, they fell flat with a lack of application support for it. I'm sure it'll improve over time, but right now? Its probably not worth spending money to upgrade if you already had an XB1 unless you really wanted the UHD player and didn't want a second device.


----------



## dotorg

pnw said:


> 1. So I now understand the 5040/6040 will not support streaming HDR at 4k 60p...but what does it do when presented with a 4k 60p HDR signal?


It never will be -- it doesn't announce it can support it, so either the source picks something else, or the connection never comes up at all.


----------



## bezlar

Well it only took about 30 mins. Jvc is boxed back up. I'm only going to say a little because they both look really nice. The epson had more pop watching hdr uhd. I think the 2500 lumens are the reason. This was watching Lucy only in uhd. I watched the second chapter of tomorrow land to evaluate blacks. That is the scene when she rides her moto to the space platform. This is a great scene to evaluate contrast and black levels. The jvc won on inky black scenes but the epson still had the edge in the contrasty scenes. Just had more pop. 

So for me $2799 to $6999 tells me I could buy the next version along with this one and still have money left over. Epson has really got a nice projector here. I'm a movie 80% of the time and sports 15% and gaming 5% so I don't give a rats ass about the limitations of hdr gaming. I would imagine that my standard old 1080p version of tomb raider will indeed kick ass on this projector. My chiefs look fantastic on DIRECTV. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bezlar

One last thing. The lag between source and signal changes on the jvc where really annoying. Also the jvc is a piece of art. It oozes sexiness. Heavy and seems very well built. I felt like I should be wearing white gloves handling it. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ht guy

bezlar said:


> Well it only took about 30 mins. Jvc is boxed back up. I'm only going to say a little because they both look really nice. The epson had more pop watching hdr uhd. I think the 2500 lumens are the reason. This was watching Lucy only in uhd. I watched the second chapter of tomorrow land to evaluate blacks. That is the scene when she rides her moto to the space platform. This is a great scene to evaluate contrast and black levels. The jvc won on inky black scenes but the epson still had the edge in the contrasty scenes. Just had more pop.
> 
> So for me $2799 to $6999 tells me I could buy the next version along with this one and still have money left over. Epson has really got a nice projector here. I'm a movie 80% of the time and sports 15% and gaming 5% so I don't give a rats ass about the limitations of hdr gaming. I would imagine that my standard old 1080p version of tomb raider will indeed kick ass on this projector. My chiefs look fantastic on DIRECTV.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thank-you for that. As someone who just made the purchase and has a similar usage profile, it makes me look forward to getting it mounted!


----------



## gnolivos

bezlar said:


> Well it only took about 30 mins. Jvc is boxed back up. I'm only going to say a little because they both look really nice. The epson had more pop watching hdr uhd. I think the 2500 lumens are the reason. This was watching Lucy only in uhd. I watched the second chapter of tomorrow land to evaluate blacks. That is the scene when she rides her moto to the space platform. This is a great scene to evaluate contrast and black levels. The jvc won on inky black scenes but the epson still had the edge in the contrasty scenes. Just had more pop.
> 
> So for me $2799 to $6999 tells me I could buy the next version along with this one and still have money left over. Epson has really got a nice projector here. I'm a movie 80% of the time and sports 15% and gaming 5% so I don't give a rats ass about the limitations of hdr gaming. I would imagine that my standard old 1080p version of tomb raider will indeed kick ass on this projector. My chiefs look fantastic on DIRECTV.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Good to know and thanks for sharing. I will say though, I do not think the pop is due to lumens. I personally watch movies in my 5040 in Cinema mode (the darkest by a wide margin), lamp low, and iris -15. It's still plenty plenty bright and has plenty pop like you said. But I'm running at possibly the lowest lumen output I could achieve (not that I was trying, just that it was otherwise blinding). 

I would imagine lumen therefore was not a factor of pop?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Finished mounting my 6040 yesterday.
For ease of alignment, I first leveled the mount from all sides by just attaching the interface plate.
Once the projector was mounted it needed absolute minimal adjustment.
I needed about 12" drop from ceiling, so bought a 9" column. 
So anyone looking for exact measurement of drop from ceiling (to PJ top)), it will be 3" + length of extension column.

Now to the first impressions. 
- OOB it looks fantastic
- Image enhancement preset 1 (which is default) looks mushy. I settled for 3.
- Played the Costa Rica 4k video and wow
- Did the panel alignment, and though most of the thinks could be aligned, I had blurry intersection at left hand bottom. (I will not worry too much about it now)
- Still playing with Lens iris setting for optimal value. 
- Auto iris set to Normal


Next up
- Adjust grey scale using S&M
- Try some of the settings posted by @dvdwilly3 

Long term
- Try my hands on HCFR. (I have bought I1 Display Pro a year or so ago, but never opened)


----------



## WynsWrld98

gnolivos said:


> Good to know and thanks for sharing. I will say though, I do not think the pop is due to lumens. I personally watch movies in my 5040 in Cinema mode (the darkest by a wide margin), lamp low, and iris -15. It's still plenty plenty bright and has plenty pop like you said. But I'm running at possibly the lowest lumen output I could achieve (not that I was trying, just that it was otherwise blinding).
> 
> I would imagine lumen therefore was not a factor of pop?


Lack of calibration probably had a lot to do with the differences. I've read people who have had them side by side CALIBRATED that it can be difficult to tell them apart except for the JVC having better blacks. I do find the menu delays on the JVC very annoying and am hoping they fix it in their refresh supposedly coming out early 2017. Someone said the slowness is due to JVC having the 18 GB HDMI chip vs. Epson the 10 GB chip when I asked about the slowness but I have to believe it could be sped up/fixed. The JVCs are a lot older than the new Epsons so I bet the next version of them will be improved.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Does the 5040 come with a black power cord? I have a white ceiling and would like it to match so I need to know if I need to order a *********** cord. Thanks


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> Does the 5040 come with a black power cord? I have a white ceiling and would like it to match so I need to know if I need to order a *********** cord. Thanks


 very good question, how long is the power cord? I need 20' lol


----------



## Ronman79

aaranddeeman said:


> Finished mounting my 6040 yesterday.
> For ease of alignment, I first leveled the mount from all sides by just attaching the interface plate.
> Once the projector was mounted it needed absolute minimal adjustment.
> I needed about 12" drop from ceiling, so bought a 9" column.
> So anyone looking for exact measurement of drop from ceiling (to PJ top)), it will be 3" + length of extension column.
> 
> Now to the first impressions.
> - OOB it looks fantastic
> - Image enhancement preset 1 (which is default) looks mushy. I settled for 3.
> - Played the Costa Rica 4k video and wow
> - Did the panel alignment, and though most of the thinks could be aligned, I had blurry intersection at left hand bottom. (I will not worry too much about it now)
> - Still playing with Lens iris setting for optimal value.
> - Auto iris set to Normal
> 
> 
> Next up
> - Adjust grey scale using S&M
> - Try some of the settings posted by @dvdwilly3
> 
> Long term
> - Try my hands on HCFR. (I have bought I1 Display Pro a year or so ago, but never opened)


Congratulations!!! Good to hear. I've been focusing so much on the HDR compatibility of the projectors lately. Wondering if I should be putting more stock into the possibility of a JVC refresh with a gaming mode, after the first of the year. However, as a previous poster said, my main concern would be UHD/1080 Blu-ray first, TV and sports second, and gaming third. I don't know, with some discounting on both sides, if the JVC would really be worth the extra $ in my budget... I know you've been studying for a while too... 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## bezlar

SALadder22FF said:


> Does the 5040 come with a black power cord? I have a white ceiling and would like it to match so I need to know if I need to order a *********** cord. Thanks




Black


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bezlar

WynsWrld98 said:


> Lack of calibration probably had a lot to do with the differences. I've read people who have had them side by side CALIBRATED that it can be difficult to tell them apart except for the JVC having better blacks. I do find the menu delays on the JVC very annoying and am hoping they fix it in their refresh supposedly coming out early 2017. Someone said the slowness is due to JVC having the 18 GB HDMI chip vs. Epson the 10 GB chip when I asked about the slowness but I have to believe it could be sped up/fixed. The JVCs are a lot older than the new Epsons so I bet the next version of them will be improved.




I was at cedia this year for the first time and saw a lot of high end projectors. After a while they all start looking the same. Unless side by side you'd prob have a hard time telling 90% of them apart. I think front projection has come along way in the last few years. Should only get better. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ana_moo_ana

c.kingsley said:


> If it played back at 4k60 it was 8bit SDR. Make sure you set like this:
> 
> Resolution: 4K
> 4k/60p Output: 4K/60p(4:4:4)*
> 24p Output : Auto
> Deep Color: Auto
> HDR: Auto
> 
> * - this is the right setting for this player, it will drop a 4:2:0 when necessary (can verify on Epson info screen).
> 
> Also, a major note for anyone with the Philips player, make sure you *disable *BD-Video Secondary Audio (off). By default this setting is on. When it is on all of the audio is downmixed to either dolby digital or dts. You will not get DTS Master, TrueHD or Atmos with this setting at default!




thanks a lot, this is exactly my current setting


----------



## bezlar

gnolivos said:


> Good to know and thanks for sharing. I will say though, I do not think the pop is due to lumens. I personally watch movies in my 5040 in Cinema mode (the darkest by a wide margin), lamp low, and iris -15. It's still plenty plenty bright and has plenty pop like you said. But I'm running at possibly the lowest lumen output I could achieve (not that I was trying, just that it was otherwise blinding).
> 
> I would imagine lumen therefore was not a factor of pop?




I think the lumens help with the hdr. I use bright cinema in eco with iris at-14 for blue ray and then with uhd I open iris up to -4 and run lamp at normal hdr at 1. I haven't touched any thing else yet. Image out of box with these minor tweaks looks pretty good. I have 120 inch Seymour xd screen. I think as I've gotten older I like the image a little brighter. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

Those who have paired Philips BDP7501 with this PJ, what exactly are the settings on the Philips so that it will maintain the source resolution while sending it to the PJ.
e.g. Blu ray will ply at its native 1080p while UHD will play at 21060P
I tried to play with settings, but it always upscales to 4k for the 1080P Blu rays.
Appreciate your help.
I know it's bit OT, but not entirely.


----------



## gnolivos

Well my Lens memory recall continues to be off by more than an inch on my 110" screen. This is tremendously frustrating having to recall the position and THEN start tweaking it to its correct position. Every time. 

Can anyone comment on whether this is also a problem on your unit? I'm opening a ticket with Epson Monday.


----------



## Smarty-pants

bezlar said:


> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I know you are only setup temporarily to test that pj, but putting that blanket on there is not a good idea.
First the blanket will probably act as an insulator and make the pj hotter, but not by a lot if it only sits on top.
However you also have those tassels hanging off the back and blocking the airflow.
Eventually the lamp will get so hot, it will literally explode into a million pieces inside the pj.


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> Well my Lens memory recall continues to be off by more than an inch on my 110" screen. This is tremendously frustrating having to recall the position and THEN start tweaking it to its correct position. Every time.
> 
> Can anyone comment on whether this is also a problem on your unit? I'm opening a ticket with Epson Monday.




You don't use the blanking feature at all do you? If you do you may want to check the settings when you change a lens position for a given input source. I've used blanking here and there to make the light spillover pure black, but sometimes I forget it's set and then scratch my head when I change an aspect ratio on various inputs on why it doesn't look right. 

Other than that I find that some movies aspect ratio may not be identical with others that say they have the same aspect ratio. For example, I may try two movies that say they have the exact same aspect ratio but they don't seem to fit the screen in he exact same way. But I've tried with one movie where I completely change aspect ratio, then go back to that lens position for that same movie and it seems to be exact. So from my experience I'm really not seeing the lens memory being inconsistent, just that some movies don't seem to be true to the same aspect ratio as others.

Not sure if that makes sense or is even accurate, but I've been saving a 2.35a and 2.35b for that reason, and may do the same for 2.39 & 2.40. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

spirithockey79 said:


> You don't use the blanking feature at all do you? If you do you may want to check the settings when you change a lens position for a given input source. I've used blanking here and there to make the light spillover pure black, but sometimes I forget it's set and then scratch my head when I change an aspect ratio on various inputs on why it doesn't look right.
> 
> Other than that I find that some movies aspect ratio may not be identical with others that say they have the same aspect ratio. For example, I may try two movies that say they have the exact same aspect ratio but they don't seem to fit the screen in he exact same way. But I've tried with one movie where I completely change aspect ratio, then go back to that lens position for that same movie and it seems to be exact. So from my experience I'm really not seeing the lens memory being inconsistent, just that some movies don't seem to be true to the same aspect ratio as others.
> 
> Not sure if that makes sense or is even accurate, but I've been saving a 2.35a and 2.35b for that reason, and may do the same for 2.39 & 2.40.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Thanks for your input. 

I checked again. No Blanking at all. 
Also, my process consisted of displaying the pattern from Epson. Centering the image via motorized lens shift. Saving the preset. 
Then I immediately recall that same preset and it is Off by an inch! So it is clearly not aspect ratio related in my case. 

Also a note for you. You're just going to have to trust me on this. Blanking does NOT make the spill any blacker. It does not restrict the light path as you'd expect or wish it did. It simply projects black pixels at lowest brightness (regardless of your current brightness setting)

So, if you ARE noticing that your blanking does indeed produce a blacker spill (blacker grey bars) this is an indication that your image brightness was set incorrectly and too high to begin with. 

Net, those black bars should look identical when blanking is On or Off. That's one way to know your brightness levels are correctly calibrated.


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> Thanks for your input.
> 
> I checked again. No Blanking at all.
> Also, my process consisted of displaying the pattern from Epson. Centering the image via motorized lens shift. Saving the preset.
> Then I immediately recall that same preset and it is Off by an inch! So it is clearly not aspect ratio related in my case.
> 
> Also a note for you. You're just going to have to trust me on this. Blanking does NOT make the spill any blacker. It does not restrict the light path as you'd expect or wish it did. It simply projects black pixels at lowest brightness (regardless of your current brightness setting)
> 
> So, if you ARE noticing that your blanking does indeed produce a blacker spill (blacker grey bars) this is an indication that your image brightness was set incorrectly and too high to begin with.
> 
> Net, those black bars should look identical when blanking is On or Off. That's one way to know your brightness levels are correctly calibrated.




Thanks. I've used the pattern for all my lens positions but guess I never really used it to compare consistency, but will try that. 

Interesting on the blanking. I've used M&S disc to set the brightness and thought that it was set correctly, but still see light spillover onto my black velvet borders. When I use the blanking I can get that to completely go black. I'll have to check my brightness again. It's possible that I was calibrating brightness with Super White ON cause that let me see all of the bars in the calibration. I've since turned it OFF. 

Does the manual iris setting have anything to do with the "brightness" levels of the black bars?


Check out my HT & Movie collection @ http://www.blu-ray.com/community/profile.php?u=379734

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bezlar

Smarty-pants said:


> I know you are only setup temporarily to test that pj, but putting that blanket on there is not a good idea.
> 
> First the blanket will probably act as an insulator and make the pj hotter, but not by a lot if it only sits on top.
> 
> However you also have those tassels hanging off the back and blocking the airflow.
> 
> Eventually the lamp will get so hot, it will literally explode into a million pieces inside the pj.




Blanket was my cat proof when I wasn't watching the projector. They love to sit on anything new. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Threefiddie

I was wondering why there was a blanket...lol


----------



## Oledurt

I received this projector 2 weeks ago and since have spent a lot of time with it. I have it pretty dialed in now and it is amazing. I have read that projectors are supposed to be bad with HDR but I have mine in Bright Cinema mode with HDR 1. I calibrated it using the disney WOW disc. I watch in a dedicated room with no light, and the picture is nothing short of stunning, and I find it to be plenty bright as well. I guess I don't understand how much more brightness you need to do HDR...I mean I don't really want to wear sunglasses to watch a movie.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

I've had a few people question my judgment on banding at 4K 8bit on this projector. Here is a screenshot of severe banding on a gradient while playing Battlefield 1 on a PS4 Pro at 4K. 

Quitting the game entirely, setting the PS4 to 1080/12 bit and restarting the game eliminated the banding in this sequence as expected. 

I've had similar experiences while streaming movies in 8 bit via Vudu. Not sure about bluray but I i'm pretty sure I've seen the same thing.


----------



## Smarty-pants

spirithockey79 said:


> Thanks. I've used the pattern for all my lens positions but guess I never really used it to compare consistency, but will try that.
> 
> Interesting on the blanking. I've used M&S disc to set the brightness and thought that it was set correctly, but still see light spillover onto my black velvet borders. When I use the blanking I can get that to completely go black. I'll have to check my brightness again. It's possible that I was calibrating brightness with Super White ON cause that let me see all of the bars in the calibration. I've since turned it OFF.
> 
> Does the manual iris setting have anything to do with the "brightness" levels of the black bars?
> 
> 
> Check out my HT & Movie collection @ http://www.blu-ray.com/community/profile.php?u=379734
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Turning SuperWhite off is a major change and will require you to recalibrate (especially the contrast setting,
which also coincides with the brightness setting.
The iris opening up more or less shouldn't change the picture settings.
Maybe if you were to go extreme like +10 on high power compared to -10 on eco might change it a pinch.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Oledurt said:


> I received this projector 2 weeks ago and since have spent a lot of time with it. I have it pretty dialed in now and it is amazing. I have read that projectors are supposed to be bad with HDR but I have mine in Bright Cinema mode with HDR 1. I calibrated it using the disney WOW disc. I watch in a dedicated room with no light, and the picture is nothing short of stunning, and I find it to be plenty bright as well. I guess I don't understand how much more brightness you need to do HDR...I mean I don't really want to wear sunglasses to watch a movie.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


From my understanding it's title/scene dependent whether HDR looks too dark from what I've read. What titles have you watched in HDR? What size and ratio is your screen? What gain is your screen? You're using High lamp mode?


----------



## dholmes54

Just received my 6040 and wondering what HDMI cable to use,mine is almost ten yrs old.I bought one a few yrs ago from monoprice and never used it, it says redmere high speed supports 4k all 3d modes and 10.2gbps throughout & xv color.Should I order another one maybe the new Luxe series,or what kind from mono price have you guys had good luck with,thxs


----------



## aaranddeeman

dholmes54 said:


> Just received my 6040 and wondering what HDMI cable to use,mine is almost ten yrs old.I bought one a few yrs ago from monoprice and never used it, it says redmere high speed supports 4k all 3d modes and 10.2gbps throughout & xv color.Should I order another one maybe the new Luxe series,or what kind from mono price have you guys had good luck with,thxs


As you have projector right now, just try using existing cable, and if that does not work then look for new cable.
For me the Cabernet series (35 feet) is working with 6040 (and Philips 7501 via Denon 7200)


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> I've had a few people question my judgment on banding at 4K 8bit on this projector. Here is a screenshot of severe banding on a gradient while playing Battlefield 1 on a PS4 Pro at 4K.
> 
> Quitting the game entirely, setting the PS4 to 1080/12 bit and restarting the game eliminated the banding in this sequence as expected.
> 
> I've had similar experiences while streaming movies in 8 bit via Vudu. Not sure about bluray but I i'm pretty sure I've seen the same thing.


That is an excellent example of terrible banding. I believe you! However...I can 100% guarantee I have no banding on the XB1S sending 4k60 4:2:0 8 bit. If you bypass the receiver is it the same? Is the game HDR on PS4 Pro? If it is 1080p HDR and 10 or 12 bit then upconversion to 4k and downconversion from 4:4:4 or whatever chroma it is using to 4:2:0 could be the culprit. Aside from the banding, does the PS4 upscaling look better or worse than letting the Espon (or your receiver) do it?


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> Well my Lens memory recall continues to be off by more than an inch on my 110" screen. This is tremendously frustrating having to recall the position and THEN start tweaking it to its correct position. Every time.
> 
> Can anyone comment on whether this is also a problem on your unit? I'm opening a ticket with Epson Monday.


I'm not using the memory but I have noticed randomly that my screen will be shifted either up or down by about 3/4". I noticed it first last weekend. I popped in a movie and the screen was 3/4" low. I fixed it with lens shift. Then last night I fired up another movie and the screen was 3/4" high. I just happened to be watching 16:9 films, but this could have happened on 2.35 and I wouldn't have noticed. I've checked and re-checked the mount, it is secure. So far it has only been a minor annoyance -- in fact trying to make the screen shift only 3/4" is where the real annoyance is. It seems to not move at all for click after click of the remote. When you hold it down then it shifts by 2'.  It's very odd.


----------



## gnolivos

c.kingsley said:


> That is an excellent example of terrible banding. I believe you! However...I can 100% guarantee I have no banding on the XB1S sending 4k60 4:2:0 8 bit. If you bypass the receiver is it the same? Is the game HDR on PS4 Pro? If it is 1080p HDR and 10 or 12 bit then upconversion to 4k and downconversion from 4:4:4 or whatever chroma it is using to 4:2:0 could be the culprit. Aside from the banding, does the PS4 upscaling look better or worse than letting the Espon (or your receiver) do it?




Well my receiver is 4K pass through, so I don't expect any difference. I will give it a try though and report back.

I don't notice any difference in the upscale quality regardless of whether the receiver, the PlayStation, or the projector takes care of it.

The biggest difference however for me is bit depth. The only way to achieve that on the PS4 pro and this projector so far appears to be by setting the PS4 to 1080 which enables 12 bit. 

Now that's an issue if you want to use true 4K content apps like YouTube, or true 4K native games assuming there are any.


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> Well my receiver is 4K pass through, so I don't expect any difference. I will give it a try though and report back.
> 
> I don't notice any difference in the upscale quality regardless of whether the receiver, the PlayStation, or the projector takes care of it.
> 
> The biggest difference however for me is bit depth. The only way to achieve that on the PS4 pro and this projector so far appears to be by setting the PS4 to 1080 which enables 12 bit.
> 
> Now that's an issue if you want to use true 4K content apps like YouTube, or true 4K native games assuming there are any.


How does it look at 1080p 12 bit in HDR?

Personally I've found no obvious difference between feeding 1080p upscaled to 4k vs just letting the Epson fauK the 1080p input. What has your experience been?

edit - I just looked at the theater pics in your sig. It looks outstanding, great work!


----------



## dholmes54

aaranddeeman said:


> As you have projector right now, just try using existing cable, and if that does not work then look for new cable.
> For me the Cabernet series (35 feet) is working with 6040 (and Philips 7501 via Denon 7200)


Thxs,I'll check it out,I thought that old cable won't handel the signal,also do you power down everything when swapping out cables?


----------



## c.kingsley

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs,I'll check it out,I thought that old cable won't handel the signal,also do you power down everything when swapping out cables?


There really isn't a major difference between any of the cables other than how much shielding they contain. They'll either work or they won't. At distances up to 25' there shouldn't be any problem with the 10.2gbps signalling rate on the Epson. That is the sole silver lining to not having 18gbps HDMI. Look at the some of the threads where 18gbps is required, its frustrating to see how many problems people have finding a cable that can make it to 25' even.


----------



## dotorg

FYI, in case anyone has wondered (I know its been asked about, but not sure answered in this thread) -- Vudu UHD does not work with the 5040ube, either, on any player which can't drop its framerate down to 24fps. It turns out their UHD playback requires HEVC Main10 even if its not in either HDR format, so it won't offer the stream if the device can't receive 4K with 10-bit at the necessary framerate. 

That means no Vudu UHD on the Chromecast Ultra, as its output is locked to 50 or 60fps, and likely no UHD on the Xbox 1 S app, either, given none of the video apps other than the BluRay player can drop the output to 24fps. 

(I confirmed this with the Ultra -- as soon as you connect to it, it offers UHD, but as soon as you start playing you only get SD and HDX, which indicates the Ultra couldn't playback the UHD content.)


----------



## gnolivos

c.kingsley said:


> How does it look at 1080p 12 bit in HDR?
> 
> Personally I've found no obvious difference between feeding 1080p upscaled to 4k vs just letting the Epson fauK the 1080p input. What has your experience been?




I see no difference in BF1 gaming. I did see a difference with YouTube native app content in 4K. While on that topic, I have noticed half the time a YT 4K video will render at 1080 instead of 2160. I know this because it is shown on the debug info screen of the Yt app on the PS4. It must be a bug, because it is inconsistent for any given SAME 4K video. I restarted the console and it seemed to work on 4K again. Then it failed again after a while. Rats.

Not bandwidth related, I have 30 Mbps. And a speed test revealed full availability at the time.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs I've read some of there problems,I need 40 ft of cable.


----------



## hatlesschimp

gnolivos said:


> I've had a few people question my judgment on banding at 4K 8bit on this projector. Here is a screenshot of severe banding on a gradient while playing Battlefield 1 on a PS4 Pro at 4K.
> 
> Quitting the game entirely, setting the PS4 to 1080/12 bit and restarting the game eliminated the banding in this sequence as expected.
> 
> I've had similar experiences while streaming movies in 8 bit via Vudu. Not sure about bluray but I i'm pretty sure I've seen the same thing.


Comparison picture?


----------



## gnolivos

hatlesschimp said:


> Comparison picture?



Here. Minimal banding by comparison. It's there but trust me there is a big difference that is obvious during transitions and gradients. Pics can't capture the distraction!


----------



## c.kingsley

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs I've read some of there problems,I need 40 ft of cable.


I concur with the previous poster who advised to try and see if it works. That is a long run...


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> Here. Minimal banding by comparison. It's there but trust me there is a big difference that is obvious during transitions and gradients. Pics can't capture the distraction!


Which section of the game is that? I can go fire up the projector and take a photo.


----------



## gnolivos

c.kingsley said:


> How does it look at 1080p 12 bit in HDR?
> 
> Personally I've found no obvious difference between feeding 1080p upscaled to 4k vs just letting the Epson fauK the 1080p input. What has your experience been?
> 
> edit - I just looked at the theater pics in your sig. It looks outstanding, great work!




I have no reliable source for HDR. Well I did try the YT app with some videos tagged as HDR. I found that hit and miss and I am not even sure they are encoded correctly. I had to set the Epson to HDR3 at the time for it to look reasonably well. I gave up on HDR a while back. Pointless really if I can barely get 12 bit to work anyway. 

This projector is almost perfect. The 10.2 Gb limitation is a pain in the ass because most players are feeding full bandwidth even for the most basic content (i.e. Encapsulated in a 4K60 signal which he Epson has very limited support for)


----------



## gnolivos

c.kingsley said:


> Which section of the game is that? I can go fire up the projector and take a photo.




This was campaign mode. The mission that starts with planes in Italy. It then proceeds to a battle at night in the trenches on foot. When you die there is a dark gradient transition. Very distracting banding.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Ordered my Screen Innovations Black Diamond Zero Edge 120" on Thursday and ordered the 5040Ube along with stand and mount today. Everything will be up and running for UFC 206...I cannot wait and will have plenty of pics to follow. So excited and thanks for all the great info passed along in this huge thread.


----------



## c.kingsley

gnolivos said:


> This was campaign mode. The mission that starts with planes in Italy. It then proceeds to a battle at night in the trenches on foot. When you die there is a dark gradient transition. Very distracting banding.


You are right. I just fired up that scene. If you stare at the sky you can see it without dying. But, I see it on any setting. It seems like something inherent in the game. Here are 3 samples...the color correction on the 4k sample is not indicative of what it really looks like. My phone did something to the picture.


----------



## gnolivos

Well the 12 bit picture looks much better to me. Did you not notice that difference? Like I mentioned before, the banding is always there, but much more distracting on 8 bit.


----------



## hatlesschimp

gnolivos said:


> Well the 12 bit picture looks much better to me. Did you not notice that difference? Like I mentioned before, the banding is always there, but much more distracting on 8 bit.


It may be a case where you flick to 1080p 12bit if you have trouble with the banding in some games but surely seeing more detail into the distance is better for bf1 over colour graduations.


----------



## gnolivos

hatlesschimp said:


> It may be a case where you flick to 1080p 12bit if you have trouble with the banding in some games but surely seeing more detail into the distance is better for bf1 over colour graduations.




Agree. I'm just not sure that BF1 has more than 1080p detail. Maybe it just upscales? In this case I'd rather have the Epson do the upscale and set the PS4 to 1080 12 bit.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

SALadder22FF said:


> Ordered my Screen Innovations Black Diamond Zero Edge 120" on Thursday and ordered the 5040Ube along with stand and mount today. Everything will be up and running for UFC 206...I cannot wait and will have plenty of pics to follow. So excited and thanks for all the great info passed along in this huge thread.


Cool! That is the combo I've been eyeing. I was gonna get the projector first, and project it on the wall with screen paint for awhile, and hopefully, get up the nerve to drop 4 grand on a screen. lol


----------



## hatlesschimp

Snoogleheimer said:


> Cool! That is the combo I've been eyeing. I was gonna get the projector first, and project it on the wall with screen paint for awhile, and hopefully, get up the nerve to drop 4 grand on a screen. lol


Only 4k in the States! Wow, try like 8k here in Aus


----------



## Kelvin1000

I have this same combo and it works great!

1080p resolution Blu-rays:


4K resolution streaming:



With the lights on and the shades open:


----------



## Snoogleheimer

hatlesschimp said:


> Only 4k in the States! Wow, try like 8k here in Aus


Holy crap, I thought 4 grand was insane, 8 grand is criminal. lol


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Kelvin1000 said:


> I have this same combo and it works great!


Yeah, I remember you. That looks awesome. So, no buyers remorse? Golly, that's an awful lot to spend on a screen. But, I'll prolly get one.


----------



## seplant

gnolivos said:


> Well my Lens memory recall continues to be off by more than an inch on my 110" screen. This is tremendously frustrating having to recall the position and THEN start tweaking it to its correct position. Every time.
> 
> Can anyone comment on whether this is also a problem on your unit? I'm opening a ticket with Epson Monday.


Just curious if you followed the advice from ndabunka in this post.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Snoogleheimer said:


> Holy crap, I thought 4 grand was insane, 8 grand is criminal. lol


The screen i went with is 2.5k. I probably would have forked out another 1.5k for Si screen.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

hatlesschimp said:


> The screen i went with is 2.5k. I probably would have forked out another 1.5k for Si screen.


Yeah, I kinda wish I hadn't checked one out. Now, I just gotta have one. Costs more than the damn projector.


----------



## Kelvin1000

No remorse whatsoever!


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Kelvin1000 said:


> No remorse whatsoever!


Yeah, they're pretty damn awesome aren't they? I checked one out in a showroom and was blown away. I also heard you really have to be careful with them. God, I would probably have to kill myself if I damaged a $4000.00 screen. lol


----------



## SALadder22FF

I don't have a light controlled room so the ambient light rejecting feature was really important to me. The one I got with LED lights retails for a little over 5k. Looks like a huge plasma on the wall. Can't wait to set it up.


----------



## Threefiddie

i just can't imagine spending that much on a screen... I fortunately have an all black room and would love to turn the lights on but not for that price. lol


----------



## Ronman79

Threefiddie said:


> i just can't imagine spending that much on a screen... I fortunately have an all black room and would love to turn the lights on but not for that price. lol


That's gonna be my case too... Much less on a screen, in a dedicated, black, batcave... Leave the lights off, and save the money two ways... Lol! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

seplant said:


> Just curious if you followed the advice from ndabunka in this post.




Well thanks for pointing me to that post. Now reading it, I remember seeing this a while back. I honestly don't believe there is any additional movement as explained on that post, but I am going to give it a try.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Got some 3d glasses today! Yet to test them. Cant wait but! Should have been $99aud each but sold for $60aud as they were the only pair they had in store. I asked if he could get more in and he said the price would be more!


----------



## dvdwilly3

hatlesschimp said:


> Got some 3d glasses today! Yet to test them. Cant wait but! Should have been $99aud each but sold for $60aud as they were the only pair they had in store. I asked if he could get more in and he said the price would be more!


Try a pair of these. I bought them in the 2 pack, but I think that they have singles.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWERZN2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are 1/2 the price of the Epsons and very comfortable and render an excellent 3D image.

I had bought a pair of the Epson and they did not fit over my regular glasses. Never even fired them up. They were returned.


----------



## aaranddeeman

aaranddeeman said:


> Finished mounting my 6040 yesterday.
> For ease of alignment, I first leveled the mount from all sides by just attaching the interface plate.
> Once the projector was mounted it needed absolute minimal adjustment.
> I needed about 12" drop from ceiling, so bought a 9" column.
> So anyone looking for exact measurement of drop from ceiling (to PJ top)), it will be 3" + length of extension column.
> 
> Now to the first impressions.
> - OOB it looks fantastic
> - Image enhancement preset 1 (which is default) looks mushy. I settled for 3.
> - Played the Costa Rica 4k video and wow
> - Did the panel alignment, and though most of the thinks could be aligned, I had blurry intersection at left hand bottom. (I will not worry too much about it now)
> - Still playing with Lens iris setting for optimal value.
> - Auto iris set to Normal
> 
> 
> Next up
> - Adjust grey scale using S&M
> - Try some of the settings posted by @dvdwilly3
> 
> Long term
> - Try my hands on HCFR. (I have bought I1 Display Pro a year or so ago, but never opened)



Did some calibration attempt using S&M and settled for the following.

1. All the setting mentioned in the S&V article (except Brightness, contrast, color and tint)
2. Set Auto Iris = Off
3. Calibrated Brightness, contrast, color and tint using S&M
4. Moved lens iris to -10 (and finally moved to -15)
5. Set Auto iris = normal

Watched Warcraft (1080p BR), and I must say this movie is must have to reveal what this projector can do.


----------



## Threefiddie

hatlesschimp said:


> Got some 3d glasses today! Yet to test them. Cant wait but! Should have been $99aud each but sold for $60aud as they were the only pair they had in store. I asked if he could get more in and he said the price would be more!


I haven't really paid attention to 3d with this projector but does the 4k shifting work with 3d?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Threefiddie said:


> I haven't really paid attention to 3d with this projector but does the 4k shifting work with 3d?


3D and 4K don't go together..


----------



## Threefiddie

aaranddeeman said:


> 3D and 4K don't go together..


tv's do it with the upscale.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Ronman79 said:


> That's gonna be my case too... Much less on a screen, in a dedicated, black, batcave... Leave the lights off, and save the money two ways... Lol!
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Well, I've been eyeing this screen for over 2 years and am super excited to finally purchase my own along with the epson. Always nice when you make dreams realities.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

SALadder22FF said:


> Well, I've been eyeing this screen for over 2 years and am super excited to finally purchase my own along with the epson. Always nice when you make dreams realities.


----------



## dotorg

Threefiddie said:


> I haven't really paid attention to 3d with this projector but does the 4k shifting work with 3d?


No, and some players like the XB1S need to be manually switched back to 1080P in the console settings to get 3D to enable.


----------



## rayians

I am thinking of upgrading my Panasonic and ordering the 5040UB. I am a bit confused about the 4K upscaling. I have a Oppo BDP-103 blu ray player and Onkyo TX-NR3010 receiver, both of which claim to support 4K upscaling. Would there be any advantage to going to a true 4K blu ray player and/or a receiver that supports HDMI 2.2?


----------



## hatlesschimp

Get the UBE version. It will save you some grief


----------



## rayians

hatlesschimp said:


> Get the UBE version. It will save you some grief


What sort of grief do you mean? I am most concerned if I will get a better picture with a 4K player versus an upscaling 1080p player with an upscaling projector.


----------



## hatlesschimp

rayians said:


> What sort of grief do you mean? I am most concerned if I will get a better picture with a 4K player versus an upscaling 1080p player with an upscaling projector.


Some here have said if they had seen the UBE had a less hdmi bottle neck with HDR than they would have skipped the UB version and would have paid the extra dosh.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

dvdwilly3 said:


> Try a pair of these. I bought them in the 2 pack, but I think that they have singles.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWERZN2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> They are 1/2 the price of the Epsons and very comfortable and render an excellent 3D image.
> 
> 
> 
> I had bought a pair of the Epson and they did not fit over my regular glasses. Never even fired them up. They were returned.




I bought the Panasonic VIERA TY-ER3DMU glasses. Not sure Im happy with them. Not sure if it was the glasses fault or the projector, but last movie I saw (Frankenweenie) has a lot of ghosting, tried to adjust the depth with no luck. I might give these pair a chance, Im looking for more comfy glasses than the ones I have.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

hatlesschimp said:


> Some here have said if they had seen the UBE had a less hdmi bottle neck with HDR than they would have skipped the UB version and would have paid the extra dosh.


Yes, I'm going to get the UBe. Haven't read much wireless connection issues with them so yeah, it's a go. Still gotta run a power cord to it, oh well.


----------



## gnolivos

rayians said:


> What sort of grief do you mean? I am most concerned if I will get a better picture with a 4K player versus an upscaling 1080p player with an upscaling projector.




I've given my detailed feedback on this before but here goes briefly: I tested 4K UHD discs vs same disc on Bluray 1080p. There was a difference in detail but the 1080p with 4K enhancement was sooo close that I decided not to bother with the additional cost of a UHD player and UHD discs. 

Lastly, the 4K discs are encoded in HDR which is hit or miss with this projector. And honestly SDR just looks better on this projector to my eyes, and many others think so too. 

Anyway, trust YOUR eyes if you can test it.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Whats the price difference on the UB and UBE?


----------



## rayians

gnolivos said:


> I've given my detailed feedback on this before but here goes briefly: I tested 4K UHD discs vs same disc on Bluray 1080p. There was a difference in detail but the 1080p with 4K enhancement was sooo close that I decided not to bother with the additional cost of a UHD player and UHD discs.
> 
> Lastly, the 4K discs are encoded in HDR which is hit or miss with this projector. And honestly SDR just looks better on this projector to my eyes, and many others think so too.
> 
> Anyway, trust YOUR eyes if you can test it.


Thank you very much for the info! I suspect I'll end up testing a 4K player just to see if it makes a world of difference on my setup. I never leave any stone un-turned! I have all very high end equipment that is all less than 3 years old but none of it supports HDMI 2.2, so I am looking at a new receiver, blu ray player and HDMI cables. The difference would have to blow me away to go through all of that right now. I am sure we are several years out from a true 4K projector selling under $3,000. By that time I'll be ready to upgrade.


----------



## raviatuofu

*5040 automatic shutdown while watching Blu Ray from Xbox One*

Weird Issue. Epson 5040 UB is connected to Denon X3300.
While streaming an entire movie from Apple TV its just fine but when I do Blu Ray from Xbox One it shuts down. Happened to me twice while watching the same movie on Blu Ray. It goes completely off and I have to do turn it 'On'. It comes back in a minute.
Any suggestions??


----------



## aaranddeeman

raviatuofu said:


> Weird Issue. Epson 5040 UB is connected to Denon X3300.
> While streaming an entire movie from Apple TV its just fine but when I do Blu Ray from Xbox One it shuts down. Happened to me twice while watching the same movie on Blu Ray. It goes completely off and I have to do turn it 'On'. It comes back in a minute.
> Any suggestions??


Yeah. Read the XBOX issues in this thread. And don't change the size of your text unnecessarily when you post.


----------



## Kelvin1000

rayians said:


> What sort of grief do you mean? I am most concerned if I will get a better picture with a 4K player versus an upscaling 1080p player with an upscaling projector.



You will definitely get a better picture with an original 4K signal and the pixel shifting projectors will have a lot more information to work with to produce a great picture.

You can convert 480 into 4K but that doesn't mean the result will be anywhere near as good.

There is only so much that upscaling can get you so generally speaking, the higher the quality of the original source signal, the better the result.


----------



## JewDaddy

ana_moo_ana said:


> I bought the Panasonic VIERA TY-ER3DMU glasses. Not sure Im happy with them. Not sure if it was the glasses fault or the projector, but last movie I saw (Frankenweenie) has a lot of ghosting, tried to adjust the depth with no luck. I might give these pair a chance, Im looking for more comfy glasses than the ones I have.


Certain 3D movies don't play well with the Epson projector. Not sure why. Some are almost unwatchable. But others are perfect. For instance, Jurassic World looked incredible in 3D on the Epson. But Terminator Genesis and a lot of the Jungle Book looked horrible and almost unwatchable. Seems to happen with darker movies. 

Contrary to what some people might tell you, there are absolutely no pair of 3-D glasses that will help with crosstalk. That has nothing to do with the glasses and has everything to do with the projector itself. The only thing an expensive pair of glasses might help with, are two things. More light output and comfort. I have four different brands of glasses. The cheapest coming in at $20 a pair and the most expensive coming in at $100 a pair. Absolutely makes no difference with crosstalk. Don't go down that route and start spending a lot of time and money to fix the issue. Unfortunately with this projector it is what it is. The crosstalk is there and will be more noticeable on certain films. 

I've also found that certain scenes can trigger the projector to maybe shift the lens to where crosstalk is a lot more noticeable. I say this because as I was watching the jungle book in 3-D, everything was going great and I hadn't noticed any cross talk until the scene where it's raining at the very beginning. After about 30 seconds I noticed that the lens almost went out of focus. After that scene was over, the next scene was very bright and colorful. At first, there was a lot of cross talk. But then all of a sudden I noticed that the screen sort of flickered and the crosstalk went away. It's almost as if there something that happens in the movies were watching that can trigger cross talk. Or maybe I'm crazy! LOL. It would be great if somebody that also owns the jungle book in 3-D can test my theory. Again, if anyone does check this, everything looked great up until the scene where it starts to rain and the little boy is walking with the wolves. 

I also think one of the reasons why professional reviewers give the 3-D on this projector such high reviews is because they're not watching enough 3-D content to actually see the problems that occur. For some reason, crosstalk seems to happen the more you watch a 3-D movie. I don't know why but it does. 

Please don't think I'm bashing the 3-D on this projector because I have definitely seen a lot worse. But I've also seen a lot better. Certain movies look outstanding and you would never think there was an issue with 3-D on this thing. But then other movies start to show its faults. I would like to hear some other peoples opinions on this and what movies they watch it in 3-D that looked fantastic without any cross talk.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

hatlesschimp said:


> Whats the price difference on the UB and UBE?


About 300 bucks.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

JewDaddy said:


> Certain 3D movies don't play well with the Epson projector. Not sure why. Some are almost unwatchable. But others are perfect. For instance, Jurassic World looked incredible in 3D on the Epson. But Terminator Genesis and a lot of the Jungle Book looked horrible and almost unwatchable. Seems to happen with darker movies.
> 
> 
> 
> Contrary to what some people might tell you, there are absolutely no pair of 3-D glasses that will help with crosstalk. That has nothing to do with the glasses and has everything to do with the projector itself. The only thing an expensive pair of glasses might help with, are two things. More light output and comfort. I have four different brands of glasses. The cheapest coming in at $20 a pair and the most expensive coming in at $100 a pair. Absolutely makes no difference with crosstalk. Don't go down that route and start spending a lot of time and money to fix the issue. Unfortunately with this projector it is what it is. The crosstalk is there and will be more noticeable on certain films.
> 
> 
> 
> I've also found that certain scenes can trigger the projector to maybe shift the lens to where crosstalk is a lot more noticeable. I say this because as I was watching the jungle book in 3-D, everything was going great and I hadn't noticed any cross talk until the scene where it's raining at the very beginning. After about 30 seconds I noticed that the lens almost went out of focus. After that scene was over, the next scene was very bright and colorful. At first, there was a lot of cross talk. But then all of a sudden I noticed that the screen sort of flickered and the crosstalk went away. It's almost as if there something that happens in the movies were watching that can trigger cross talk. Or maybe I'm crazy! LOL. It would be great if somebody that also owns the jungle book in 3-D can test my theory. Like I said, everything looked great up until the scene where it starts to rain and the little boy is walking with the wolves.
> 
> 
> 
> I also think one of the reasons why professional reviewers give the 3-D on this projector such high reviews is because they're not watching enough 3-D content to actually see the problems that occur. For some reason, crosstalk seems to happen the more you watch a 3-D movie. I don't know why but it does.
> 
> 
> 
> Please don't think I'm bashing the 3-D on this projector because I have definitely seen a lot worse. But I've also seen a lot better. Like I said, certain movies look outstanding and you would never think there was an issue with 3-D on this thing. But then other movies start to show its faults. I would like to hear some other peoples opinions on this and what movies they watch it in 3-D that looked fantastic without any cross talk.




very informative post, thank u very much. I only tried two movies, one worked well (the nightmare before Christmas) & the other was full of ghosting. I rarely play 3D movies so it's not a big deal for me, just surprised that many giving it good reviews in the 3D handling which wasn't the case for me, for that movie at least.


----------



## JewDaddy

ana_moo_ana said:


> very informative post, thank u very much. I only tried two movies, one worked well (the nightmare before Christmas) & the other was full of ghosting. I rarely play 3D movies so it's not a big deal for me, just surprised that many giving it good reviews in the 3D handling which wasn't the case for me, for that movie at least.


You're welcome. It's frustrating because when you watch a great 3-D movie on this projector it's quite the experience. But then you watch another movie and it's the exact opposite experience. I wish the 3-D on this thing was a lot more consistent but unfortunately it's not. I guess it's just about the luck of the draw with what movie you're watching.


----------



## dvdwilly3

JewDaddy said:


> You're welcome. It's frustrating because when you watch a great 3-D movie on this projector it's quite the experience. But then you watch another movie and it's the exact opposite experience. I wish the 3-D on this thing was a lot more consistent but unfortunately it's not. I guess it's just about the luck of the draw with what movie you're watching.


I think that a lot of what you are seeing is not the projector, but the production of the movies themselves. I think that 3D rendering is a lot like HDR--there is little consistency from label to label, and even among movies from the same label.

Each production studios approach varies and, consequently, so does the 3D or HDR implementation.

Try Prometheus in 3D. It is one of the best implementations of 3D that I have seen.


----------



## dholmes54

My only problem is that my screen is a 600.00 $ elite cinema white that I bought in 2008,its120in 16x9,now my projector is 5 times that price I think I've a new BMW with used tires! It was a pain installing a 10ft screen in a 11.5 ft wide room,so I think I'll just keep it anyway.


----------



## JewDaddy

dvdwilly3 said:


> I think that a lot of what you are seeing is not the projector, but the production of the movies themselves. I think that 3D rendering is a lot like HDR--there is little consistency from label to label, and even among movies from the same label.
> 
> Each production studios approach varies and, consequently, so does the 3D or HDR implementation.
> 
> Try Prometheus in 3D. It is one of the best implementations of 3D that I have seen.


 I agree but at the same time I also disagree. I agree in the fact that not all 3-D is created equal. Meaning some 3-D movies look a lot better than other 3D movies. For example, pacific rim and avatar jump out at you in almost every scene. Other movies in 3-D are a lot more about just adding a little depth to the picture. And you are correct, Prometheus is amazing in 3-D! 

However, I do not agree that certain movies show more cross talk because of the movie itself. I have watched plenty of 3-D movies on previous projectors, more importantly DLP projectors that have zero Cross talk but have tons of cross talk on this projector. Again I think this has to do with how the projector handles certain 3-D content. I don't think this is any fault of the 3-D movie itself. I just have a hard time believing that a movie can show perfect on one projector and then have tons of issues on another. That to me shows the projectors faults or limitations.


----------



## rupedogg24

I've given up on HDR (for now). Before you poo poo it hear me out. 

I turned off the HDR feature on my Philips player because i just wasn't seeing the benefits of it, even with switching it to HDR1 setting. Then there was another problem. Having to switch to HDR1 every time i wntd to watch a 4k bluray. Hated it. I want to just sit and watch a movie without worrying every minute about a setting being dialedin perfectly. 

The picture without HDR engaged looks better IMO. Still as detailed and sharp, and brighter. Beautiful. 

I played with HDR on this projector for a while. I'm good for a while until Epson or whomever works out the kinks. 1080p looks amazing on this projector. It's breathed new life into my 1080p collection. 3D has been amazing. 4K has been amazing. This projector is amazing. 

My setting in the Philips









Epson setting without HDR watching 4k bluray.









Notice on Philips player prior to 4K BRD playing.









I also turned off HDR on the PS4. Couldn't see any benefits whatsoever. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## dotorg

JewDaddy said:


> After about 30 seconds I noticed that the lens almost went out of focus. After that scene was over, the next scene was very bright and colorful. At first, there was a lot of cross talk. But then all of a sudden I noticed that the screen sort of flickered and the crosstalk went away. It's almost as if there something that happens in the movies were watching that can trigger cross talk. Or maybe I'm crazy! LOL.



I noticed the exact same thing a half dozen times watching The Force Awakens last night. Exactly the same -- for a moment everything seemed out of focus, crosstalk got real bad, and the next bright scene, it was razor sharp and no crosstalk again.

I thought I was going crazy. 

I was hypothesizing its neurological -- your eyes actually process changes in bright scenes much faster than dark scenes. If you remember maybe 20 years ago there was a Super Bowl where they showed the half-time in 3D using glasses they'd given out. Those basically had one eye slightly darker than the other. That actually slightly delays your brain processing what it saw from that eye, and if there's motion on the screen, it actually causes that eye to see a frame or two behind -- end result, a fake 3D that is just weird but works. 

My guess was (and I have *no* idea why I never noticed it on my 5030) in the darker scenes, something with that neurological delay is making it seem like there's more crosstalk, or possibly the opposite -- the brighter parts are masking it. In either case, the darker the total screen brightness, the more of an issue I thought there was. Although I can't explain that "why is everything blurry all of a sudden" sense. I don't think that's a glitch related to 4K enhancement -- the image during the movie didn't look like it was doing it in 3D mode. 

I have auto iris off, so that wouldn't have been it either. (Unless, maybe, that was a setting sticky to Digital Cinema and it wasn't off in 3D?)


----------



## c.kingsley

aaranddeeman said:


> Did some calibration attempt using S&M and settled for the following.
> 
> 1. All the setting mentioned in the S&V article (except Brightness, contrast, color and tint)
> 2. Set Auto Iris = Off
> 3. Calibrated Brightness, contrast, color and tint using S&M
> 4. Moved lens iris to -10 (and finally moved to -15)
> 5. Set Auto iris = normal
> 
> Watched Warcraft (1080p BR), and I must say this movie is must have to reveal what this projector can do.


I agree about Warcraft. The UHD is also reference material for HDR, along with Lucy. 

I hadn't seen the S&V review yet, I'll have to test those grayscale changes on a different memory. I notice the reviewer mentions a separate Digital Cinema calibration for UHD that achieved 29fL and calibrated out to 1000 nits. Based on some comments in the RS400 threads about calibrating HDR to a 1000nit target, I've been hoping to do the same to the Epson. I notice he does not list the settings he used to achieve this target. There may be no choice but to buy a meter and attempt the calibration at home...


----------



## JewDaddy

dotorg said:


> I noticed the exact same thing a half dozen times watching The Force Awakens last night. Exactly the same -- for a moment everything seemed out of focus, crosstalk got real bad, and the next bright scene, it was razor sharp and no crosstalk again.
> 
> I thought I was going crazy.
> 
> I was hypothesizing its neurological -- your eyes actually process changes in bright scenes much faster than dark scenes. If you remember maybe 20 years ago there was a Super Bowl where they showed the half-time in 3D using glasses they'd given out. Those basically had one eye slightly darker than the other. That actually slightly delays your brain processing what it saw from that eye, and if there's motion on the screen, it actually causes that eye to see a frame or two behind -- end result, a fake 3D that is just weird but works.
> 
> My guess was (and I have *no* idea why I never noticed it on my 5030) in the darker scenes, something with that neurological delay is making it seem like there's more crosstalk, or possibly the opposite -- the brighter parts are masking it. In either case, the darker the total screen brightness, the more of an issue I thought there was. Although I can't explain that "why is everything blurry all of a sudden" sense. I don't think that's a glitch related to 4K enhancement -- the image during the movie didn't look like it was doing it in 3D mode.
> 
> I have auto iris off, so that wouldn't have been it either. (Unless, maybe, that was a setting sticky to Digital Cinema and it wasn't off in 3D?)


I guess we're not crazy after all!!!!

I noticed a lot of what you just mentioned with Warcraft 3D as well. I was hoping that Star Wars wouldn't have this issue. Bummer :-(

If you haven't yet, watch Jurassic World in 3D on this thing and you will be blown away. The lack of crosstalk and 3D effects are fantastic.


----------



## aaranddeeman

c.kingsley said:


> I agree about Warcraft. The UHD is also reference material for HDR, along with Lucy.
> 
> I hadn't seen the S&V review yet, I'll have to test those grayscale changes on a different memory. I notice the reviewer mentions a separate Digital Cinema calibration for UHD that achieved 29fL and calibrated out to 1000 nits. Based on some comments in the RS400 threads about calibrating HDR to a 1000nit target, I've been hoping to do the same to the Epson. I notice he does not list the settings he used to achieve this target. There may be no choice but to buy a meter and attempt the calibration at home...


Just meter may not be enough. We also need a test pattern disk that is mastered for HDR..


----------



## Smarty-pants

seplant said:


> Just curious if you followed the advice from ndabunka in this post.


I clicked your link but it doesn't take me to the intended post.
Can you post a specific quote or a working link please, and thank you.


----------



## seplant

Smarty-pants said:


> I clicked your link but it doesn't take me to the intended post.
> Can you post a specific quote or a working link please, and thank you.


Post #2490 in this thread


----------



## seplant

JewDaddy said:


> Certain 3D movies don't play well with the Epson projector. Not sure why. Some are almost unwatchable. But others are perfect. For instance, Jurassic World looked incredible in 3D on the Epson. But Terminator Genesis and a lot of the Jungle Book looked horrible and almost unwatchable. Seems to happen with darker movies.
> 
> Contrary to what some people might tell you, there are absolutely no pair of 3-D glasses that will help with crosstalk. That has nothing to do with the glasses and has everything to do with the projector itself. The only thing an expensive pair of glasses might help with, are two things. More light output and comfort. I have four different brands of glasses. The cheapest coming in at $20 a pair and the most expensive coming in at $100 a pair. Absolutely makes no difference with crosstalk. Don't go down that route and start spending a lot of time and money to fix the issue. Unfortunately with this projector it is what it is. The crosstalk is there and will be more noticeable on certain films.
> 
> I've also found that certain scenes can trigger the projector to maybe shift the lens to where crosstalk is a lot more noticeable. I say this because as I was watching the jungle book in 3-D, everything was going great and I hadn't noticed any cross talk until the scene where it's raining at the very beginning. After about 30 seconds I noticed that the lens almost went out of focus. After that scene was over, the next scene was very bright and colorful. At first, there was a lot of cross talk. But then all of a sudden I noticed that the screen sort of flickered and the crosstalk went away. It's almost as if there something that happens in the movies were watching that can trigger cross talk. Or maybe I'm crazy! LOL. It would be great if somebody that also owns the jungle book in 3-D can test my theory. Again, if anyone does check this, everything looked great up until the scene where it starts to rain and the little boy is walking with the wolves.
> 
> I also think one of the reasons why professional reviewers give the 3-D on this projector such high reviews is because they're not watching enough 3-D content to actually see the problems that occur. For some reason, crosstalk seems to happen the more you watch a 3-D movie. I don't know why but it does.
> 
> Please don't think I'm bashing the 3-D on this projector because I have definitely seen a lot worse. But I've also seen a lot better. Certain movies look outstanding and you would never think there was an issue with 3-D on this thing. But then other movies start to show its faults. I would like to hear some other peoples opinions on this and what movies they watch it in 3-D that looked fantastic without any cross talk.


Why not open a ticket with Epson on this issue? Maybe they can improve the 3D performance with a firmware update.


----------



## JewDaddy

seplant said:


> Why not open a ticket with Epson on this issue? Maybe they can improve the 3D performance with a firmware update.


I like the way you think but it's a waste of time. I don't think the 3D can be fixed by a firmware update. Something in the hardware I'm guessing.


----------



## seplant

JewDaddy said:


> I like the way you think but it's a waste of time. I don't think the 3D can be fixed by a firmware update. Something in the hardware I'm guessing.


It doesn't hurt to ask. Let's let Epson make that determination.


----------



## dholmes54

So since I don't have ultra blu-ray yet It be better to use HDMI #2 on the 6040 & let std blu-rays up convert to 2160p


----------



## c.kingsley

aaranddeeman said:


> Just meter may not be enough. We also need a test pattern disk that is mastered for HDR..


There is a link here to purchase one:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...98-r-masciola-s-hdr-10-uhd-test-patterns.html

These patterns will not play on the Philips player. They do play on a PC or Mac but with no HDR flags. You can force HDR via the Linker if you have one. I don't think there is any legitimate difference between forcing HDR mode on the Epson or sending the flags via the Linker. All HDR does is read a static metadata value from the disc and then that enables the corresponding remap table in the Epson. I think if you can get them to play at 4k 10 bit from any source then force HDR mode 2 on the Epson. I've never owned a colorimeter though and I don't know where to start or which brands to look for. I need to do more research. I do feel like there is a great deal of untapped capacity in the 5040 for HDR, I just don't have the right tool set to unlock it.


----------



## c.kingsley

dholmes54 said:


> So since I don't have ultra blu-ray yet It be better to use HDMI #2 on the 6040 & let std blu-rays up convert to 2160p


The choice of input doesn't matter. The projector will upscale content via either input. For ease of use I would recommend sticking to HDMI 1 and switching inputs through your receiver.


----------



## Halichopter

JewDaddy said:


> Please don't think I'm bashing the 3-D on this projector because I have definitely seen a lot worse. But I've also seen a lot better. Certain movies look outstanding and you would never think there was an issue with 3-D on this thing. But then other movies start to show its faults. I would like to hear some other peoples opinions on this and what movies they watch it in 3-D that looked fantastic without any cross talk.


I have watched Avatar in 3D with this projector and it is amazing with no cross talk that I can see. The only problem is that the scenes are pretty dark. I know 3D inevitably reduces the brightness, but was wondering what the recommended settings on the Epson should be when watching a 3D movie?

Thanks.


----------



## trainfan

*Saving Lens Memory positions*



ndabunka said:


> One VERY important thing to remember with this projector is that there is a teeny tiny bit of adjusting that the projector itself does after the end of it's "adjustment" to the new lens memory position. I almost "over-corrected a few times myself so... Make the lens changes and then... WAIT .... at LEAST a minute or 120 seconds BEFORE you "save" that position otherwise you won't be saving the ACTUAL memory position. Good luck!


"Well my Lens memory recall continues to be off by more than an inch on my 110" screen. This is tremendously frustrating having to recall the position and THEN start tweaking it to its correct position. Every time. 

Can anyone comment on whether this is also a problem on your unit? I'm opening a ticket with Epson Monday."



seplant said:


> Just curious if you followed the advice from ndabunka in this post.


thanks for the help, this fixed my lens memory problem, going from my saved settings for 16:9 and 2.35 content, I always had to do a little fine adjusting after .
Now I set both and waited 2 minutes before saving my different lens positions and now they are saved perfectly :laugh:


----------



## c.kingsley

trainfan said:


> thanks for the help, this fixed my lens memory problem, going from my saved settings for 16:9 and 2.35 content, I always had to do a little fine adjusting after .
> Now I set both and waited 2 minutes before saving my different lens positions and now they are saved perfectly :laugh:


Very interesting, but it still seems like a bug that should be escalated to Epson. As I mentioned earlier, I'm not using different memories, but my screen jumps up and down in the vertical plane between sessions -- seemingly random at this point. I haven't measured the amount it is off, but it always seems about 3/4" at 12'6" throw. What happens is I turn on the PJ and its shifted either up or down. I'll correct it, shut the PJ down for the day and then I find it is shifted the opposite way on the next viewing. Anyone else notice this occurring?


----------



## ndabunka

trainfan said:


> "Well my Lens memory recall continues to be off by more than an inch on my 110" screen. This is tremendously frustrating having to recall the position and THEN start tweaking it to its correct position. Every time.





seplant said:


> Just curious if you followed the advice from ndabunka?





trainfan said:


> Thanks for the help, this fixed my lens memory problem, going from my saved settings for 16:9 and 2.35 content, I always had to do a little fine adjusting after. Now I set both and waited 2 minutes before saving my different lens positions and now they are saved perfectly :laugh:


Good to hear that there was nothing wrong with your projector & Happy to learn that you benefited from my recommendation


----------



## gnolivos

ndabunka said:


> Good to hear that there was nothing wrong with your projector & Happy to learn that you benefited from my recommendation




I'm testing this myself now. I will report back!


----------



## aaranddeeman

rupedogg24 said:


> I also turned off HDR on the PS4. Couldn't see any benefits whatsoever.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk



Wouldn't it be better to leave the HDR (to Auto) in the source device.
That way the HDR together with WCG is sent to PJ.
Now on Epson, force it to SDR and BT2020
This is assuming that the source will drop HDR and also WCG when you disable HDR in it's settings.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Look what arrived! 

135" 2.37:1 Cinemascope Acoustic Transparent Screen by OzTheaterScreens!


----------



## Dandlj

robc1976 said:


> before I went projection I was going to go with a 88" tv just like that.




Which TV?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

rupedogg24 said:


> I've given up on HDR (for now). Before you poo poo it hear me out.
> 
> I turned off the HDR feature on my Philips player because i just wasn't seeing the benefits of it, even with switching it to HDR1 setting. Then there was another problem. Having to switch to HDR1 every time i wntd to watch a 4k bluray. Hated it. I want to just sit and watch a movie without worrying every minute about a setting being dialedin perfectly.
> 
> The picture without HDR engaged looks better IMO. Still as detailed and sharp, and brighter. Beautiful.
> 
> I played with HDR on this projector for a while. I'm good for a while until Epson or whomever works out the kinks. 1080p looks amazing on this projector. It's breathed new life into my 1080p collection. 3D has been amazing. 4K has been amazing. This projector is amazing.


I ordered this PJ to potentially replace my Panny 3000 and as a trial into 4K. During the week that I have had it, I have concluded that the 5040 as you indicated is undeniably superior in image quality...brighter, sharper, and improved colors. And after playing a number of 4K Blu-rays, my assessment of HDR mirror yours exactly. The Martian and The Revenant were both overly dark for my liking with the out of box settings. Setting to HDR1 and increasing to high power still did not improve the image to my liking. Like yourself, the brightness of the image did not improve until I turned HDR off in the Philips UHD player. At that point, IMO, the image became watchable and improved dramatically. I will agree that this PJ is amazing with the caveat that it's HDR capability is not quite ready for prime time. My understanding is that this is not a detraction of the 5040 but a common lack of sufficient lumens characteristic of PJ's at this price point. Overall, I'm extremely happy with the 5040 and will likely keep it. 

Just an added note: I'm projecting onto a 115" 1.1gain screen from 12' in a completely light controlled room.


----------



## robc1976

Dandlj said:


> Which TV?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was going to go with this, lot cheaper than price in link

http://www.samsung.com/us/televisio...d-smart-tv-88-class-88-0-diag-un88js9500fxza/


----------



## gene4ht

aaranddeeman said:


> Wouldn't it be better to leave the HDR (to Auto) in the source device.
> That way the HDR together with WCG is sent to PJ.


I'm far from being an HDR sme but this makes sense and something I would like to try with a little coaching.




aaranddeeman said:


> Now on Epson, force it to SDR and BT2020


How and where do I make this selection?




aaranddeeman said:


> This is assuming that the source will drop HDR and also WCG when you disable HDR in it's settings.


How can this be determined?


----------



## Oledurt

i thought you needed a hdfury to drop hdr and keep the bt2020 color space. Is there another way?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

gene4ht said:


> I ordered this PJ to potentially replace my Panny 3000 and as a trial into 4K. During the week that I have had it, I have concluded that the 5040 as you indicated is undeniably superior in image quality...brighter, sharper, and improved colors. And after playing a number of 4K Blu-rays, my assessment of HDR mirror yours exactly. The Martian and The Revenant were both overly dark for my liking with the out of box settings. Setting to HDR1 and increasing to high power still did not improve the image to my liking. Like yourself, the brightness of the image did not improve until I turned HDR off in the Philips UHD player. At that point, IMO, the image became watchable and improved dramatically. I will agree that this PJ is amazing with the caveat that it's HDR capability is not quite ready for prime time. My understanding is that this is not a detraction of the 5040 but a common lack of sufficient lumens characteristic of PJ's at this price point. Overall, I'm extremely happy with the 5040 and will likely keep it.
> 
> Just an added note: I'm projecting onto a 115" 1.1gain screen from 12' in a completely light controlled room.



I wouldn't say it's simply a lumens thing. My new replacement Sony VW365ES (for a defective 350ES) with lower lumens than the 5040. With the newest 2.301 firmware on it that adds an HDR Contrast adjustment which makes it push the total image brightness up and really finally does enough for me to keep HDR on for a projector. The upgraded panels on the x65/75ES series Sonys really make a WORLD of difference! 

I would think that Epson could implement a similar firmware to enable an HDR contrast adjustment to boost the lumens brightness up to make it acceptable. 

You guys should put some pressure on them with emails, calls, etc. explaining what Sony did. 



Oledurt said:


> i thought you needed a hdfury to drop hdr and keep the bt2020 color space. Is there another way?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Yes, you do.


----------



## achanonier

Dave Harper said:


> I wouldn't say it's simply a lumens thing. My new replacement Sony VW365ES (for a defective 350ES) with lower lumens than the 5040. With the newest 2.301 firmware on it that adds an HDR Contrast adjustment which makes it push the total image brightness up and really finally does enough for me to keep HDR on for a projector. The upgraded panels on the x65/75ES series Sonys really make a WORLD of difference!
> 
> I would think that Epson could implement a similar firmware to enable an HDR contrast adjustment to boost the lumens brightness up to make it acceptable.
> 
> You guys should put some pressure on them with emails, calls, etc. explaining what Sony did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you do.


I already sent them a email for the exact same thing ! 
We really need that HDR contrast adjustment !


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> i thought you needed a hdfury to drop hdr and keep the bt2020 color space. Is there another way?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Epson has the setting to switch to SDR and you can set the color space to BT2020.
Now, how it compares to the HDFury output is unknown.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gene4ht said:


> How and where do I make this selection?


You do this in the "Signal" menu item.


----------



## caveman2000

JewDaddy said:


> Certain 3D movies don't play well with the Epson projector. Not sure why. Some are almost unwatchable. But others are perfect. For instance, Jurassic World looked incredible in 3D on the Epson. But Terminator Genesis and a lot of the Jungle Book looked horrible and almost unwatchable. Seems to happen with darker movies.
> 
> Contrary to what some people might tell you, there are absolutely no pair of 3-D glasses that will help with crosstalk. That has nothing to do with the glasses and has everything to do with the projector itself. The only thing an expensive pair of glasses might help with, are two things. More light output and comfort. I have four different brands of glasses. The cheapest coming in at $20 a pair and the most expensive coming in at $100 a pair. Absolutely makes no difference with crosstalk. Don't go down that route and start spending a lot of time and money to fix the issue. Unfortunately with this projector it is what it is. The crosstalk is there and will be more noticeable on certain films.
> 
> I've also found that certain scenes can trigger the projector to maybe shift the lens to where crosstalk is a lot more noticeable. I say this because as I was watching the jungle book in 3-D, everything was going great and I hadn't noticed any cross talk until the scene where it's raining at the very beginning. After about 30 seconds I noticed that the lens almost went out of focus. After that scene was over, the next scene was very bright and colorful. At first, there was a lot of cross talk. But then all of a sudden I noticed that the screen sort of flickered and the crosstalk went away. It's almost as if there something that happens in the movies were watching that can trigger cross talk. Or maybe I'm crazy! LOL. It would be great if somebody that also owns the jungle book in 3-D can test my theory. Again, if anyone does check this, everything looked great up until the scene where it starts to rain and the little boy is walking with the wolves.
> 
> I also think one of the reasons why professional reviewers give the 3-D on this projector such high reviews is because they're not watching enough 3-D content to actually see the problems that occur. For some reason, crosstalk seems to happen the more you watch a 3-D movie. I don't know why but it does.
> 
> Please don't think I'm bashing the 3-D on this projector because I have definitely seen a lot worse. But I've also seen a lot better. Certain movies look outstanding and you would never think there was an issue with 3-D on this thing. But then other movies start to show its faults. I would like to hear some other peoples opinions on this and what movies they watch it in 3-D that looked fantastic without any cross talk.





> Certain 3D movies don't play well with the Epson projector. Not sure why. Some are almost unwatchable. But others are perfect. For instance, Jurassic World looked incredible in 3D on the Epson. But Terminator Genesis and a lot of the Jungle Book looked horrible and almost unwatchable. Seems to happen with darker movies.


I did a lot of 3D testing the last days on the 5040. The most important option to reduce ghosting is 'Signal->3D Setup->3D Brightness' setting. Here you can trade brightness against ghosting by changing the timing of the 3D glasses's shutter. 'medium' will do for most movies to reduce ghosting to an acceptable level. 'low' nearly eliminated ghosting in all my test-scenes, leaving only a small trace here and there. But the picture will become quite dark (depending on the size of the screen), so the high lamp mode might be a 'must' to compensate for it.

To minimize ghosting, the 'Diagonal Screen Size' should be set to the correct value.

'3D Depth' let you shift the point of minimal ghosting. This is a 'dangerous' parameter, which might lead to extreme ghosting. If you have prominent ghosting on an object in the front, you can adjust the '3D Depth' so that the ghosting completely vanishes, only to emphasis ghosting on all objects in the back. I would recommend only values between '-1' and '1' here.

Of course, if the 3D image is completely strange, the 3D glasses might have synchronized with an inverse timing (especially if glasses of other brands are used), so 'Inverse 3D Glasses' may correct this.

Hope this helps.

Marc


----------



## gene4ht

aaranddeeman said:


> Epson has the setting to switch to SDR and you can set the color space to BT2020.
> Now, how it compares to the HDFury output is unknown.





aaranddeeman said:


> You do this in the "Signal" menu item.


Thanks! I'll give this a try and compare results to just turning off HDR at the source. I guess I'm just a little surprised that more 5040/6040 owners don't find the image as being dark as do @rupedogg24 and I.


----------



## gene4ht

achanonier said:


> *I already sent them a email *for the exact same thing !
> We really need that HDR contrast adjustment !


I would like to do the same. Can you post or PM me the email address to where you sent the request...to ensure it gets the attention of the same people/group/division? Thanks!


----------



## ana_moo_ana

gene4ht said:


> I would like to do the same. Can you post or PM me the email address to where you sent the request...to ensure it gets the attention of the same people/group/division? Thanks!




same here please


----------



## Oledurt

aaranddeeman said:


> Epson has the setting to switch to SDR and you can set the color space to BT2020.
> 
> Now, how it compares to the HDFury output is unknown.




When I do this it brightens the picture a lot is this normal? Info screen says bt2020 color space but sdr instead of hdr. I have heard conflicting info on this. 

Dave Harper an ISF Calibrator claims HDR cannot be stripped this way, and states you need the HDFury to do this correctly. Before I drop the cash on a linker I need to make sure the projector won't do it.

It is confusing because on the surface the projector appears to do this.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

aaranddeeman said:


> Epson has the setting to switch to SDR and you can set the color space to BT2020.
> 
> Now, how it compares to the HDFury output is unknown.



That is just setting the Epson to be in that mode to accept a proper HDR/bt2020 signal. That doesn't make the source actually SEND the HDR-less bt2020 wide color gamut signal to the projector. You MUST have the hdfury Integral or Linker to present the proper EDID to the source so it thinks that your display is capable of bt2020 without HDR. 



gene4ht said:


> Thanks! I'll give this a try and compare results to just turning off HDR at the source. I guess I'm just a little surprised that more 5040/6040 owners don't find the image as being dark as do @rupedogg24 and I.



It is very dark, that's why I suggest owners send in comments to implement a new firmware with some sort of HDR contrast adjustment as the Sonys have now. 



Oledurt said:


> When I do this it brightens the picture a lot is this normal? Info screen says bt2020 color space but sdr instead of hdr. I have heard conflicting info on this.
> 
> Dave Harper an ISF Calibrator claims HDR cannot be stripped this way, and states you need the HDFury to do this correctly. Before I drop the cash on a linker I need to make sure the projector won't do it.
> 
> It is confusing because on the surface the projector appears to do this.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



See answer above.


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> That is just setting the Epson to be in that mode to accept a proper HDR/bt2020 signal. That doesn't make the source actually SEND the HDR-less bt2020 wide color gamut signal to the projector. You MUST have the hdfury Integral or Linker to present the proper EDID to the source so it thinks that your display is capable of bt2020 without HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is very dark, that's why I suggest owners send in comments to implement a new firmware with some sort of HDR contrast adjustment as the Sonys have now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See answer above.




Thanks Dave

I completely understand now. I took your suggestion to contact Epson and request they add an ability to adjust contrast/brightness in HDR mode. 

I think for now I will hold off on the HD Fury and see if Epson makes some changes with firmware upgrades. I am sure they know this is an issue as I have seen some prominent reviewers make the same criticism of HDR on the Epson projector. 

Epson is responsive to their customers requests I have had great experiences with there customer service. 

For now, I am holding out for the firmware. Thanks again for your clarification.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## joel dickman

*Epson's response regarding 4K enhancement & frame interpolation at the same time*



joel dickman said:


> Suppose I pop an ordinary 1080p Blu Ray disc into an ordinary 1080p Blu Ray disc player and hook it up to an Epson 5040 projector. _NOT_ a UHD 4K disc in a new UHD 4K player - just a garden variety Blu Ray in my old disc player...
> 
> *Am I correct in thinking that I can use the 4K enhancement feature of the Epson, OR the frame interpolation feature, but not both at the same time?*
> 
> Is this also true when playing 4K UHD discs in a new 4K UHD player?
> 
> Thanks in advance, and Happy Viewing,
> Joel Dickman


I posted this question recently here and got two conflicting responses. Decided to let Epson officially respond, and was told:

1) When watching a 1080p Blu Ray disc in an old 1080p Blu Ray disc player, the Epson 4k e-shift enhancement feature and the frame interpolation feature can BOTH be used at the same time.

2) I was also told - *contrary to Art Feierman's review at projectorreviews.com* - that the 4K enhancement feature and the frame interpolation feature can be used at the same time when watching a 4K UHD disc in a new 4K UHD player too.


So I am still confused about this stuff. Is there anybody out there who can clear this up for me? _Not on the basis of reading manuals or theory_, but on the basis of personal hands-on (or eyes-on) experience with the relevant equipment and features? I need some personal testimony regarding this before laying my money down. My main focus is on watching 1080p Blu Rays rather than the newer and more problematic 4K UHD material.

Theory is gray, but the tree of life is green.

Thanks in advance, and happy viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## rupedogg24

gene4ht said:


> Thanks! I'll give this a try and compare results to just turning off HDR at the source. I guess I'm just a little surprised that more 5040/6040 owners don't find the image as being dark as do @rupedogg24 and I.


And in all honesty I couldn't see any difference when i turned it off at the source between rec2020 and .709. 

When I switched the Epson to SDR the image was flat, less color, and washed out. Better to turn it off on the Philips. No dropoff in image quality that I could see. I'll add some pics later. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

joel dickman said:


> I posted this question recently here and got two conflicting responses. Decided to let Epson officially respond, and was told:
> 
> 1) When watching a 1080p Blu Ray disc in an old 1080p Blu Ray disc player, the Epson 4k e-shift enhancement feature and the frame interpolation feature can BOTH be used at the same time.
> 
> 2) I was also told - *contrary to Art Feierman's review at projectorreviews.com* - that the 4K enhancement feature and the frame interpolation feature can be used at the same time when watching a 4K UHD disc in a new 4K UHD player too.
> 
> 
> So I am still confused about this stuff. Is there anybody out there who can clear this up for me? _Not on the basis of reading manuals or theory_, but on the basis of personal hands-on (or eyes-on) experience with the relevant equipment and features? I need some personal testimony regarding this before laying my money down. My main focus is on watching 1080p Blu Rays rather than the newer and more problematic 4K UHD material.
> 
> Theory is gray, but the tree of life is green.
> 
> Thanks in advance, and happy viewing,
> Joel Dickman




I can confirm without a doubt that (1) is true. As for (2) I cannot recall. I returned my UHD player.


----------



## Dave Harper

rupedogg24 said:


> *And in all honesty I couldn't see any difference when i turned it off at the source between rec2020 and .709.*
> 
> When I switched the Epson to SDR the image was flat, less color, and washed out. Better to turn it off on the Philips. No dropoff in image quality that I could see. I'll add some pics later.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


If you turned "it" off at the source (what is "it"? HDR, bt2020 or both that you turned off a the source?) If "it" was HDR, then that's because when you turn HDR off at the source device, it also automatically turns off bt2020 wide color gamut output and makes the signal 4K SDR bt709. If not, did you recalibrate for bt2020 color points? This is why you need an HDFury Integral or Linker, so it provides a special EDID to tell the source to send HDR with bt2020 and then the HDFury device strips ONLY the HDR metadata, leaving the bt2020 WCG intact to your display device. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that earlier.


----------



## sddp

JewDaddy said:


> I agree but at the same time I also disagree. I agree in the fact that not all 3-D is created equal. Meaning some 3-D movies look a lot better than other 3D movies. For example, pacific rim and avatar jump out at you in almost every scene. Other movies in 3-D are a lot more about just adding a little depth to the picture. And you are correct, Prometheus is amazing in 3-D!
> 
> However, I do not agree that certain movies show more cross talk because of the movie itself. I have watched plenty of 3-D movies on previous projectors, more importantly DLP projectors that have zero Cross talk but have tons of cross talk on this projector. Again I think this has to do with how the projector handles certain 3-D content. I don't think this is any fault of the 3-D movie itself. I just have a hard time believing that a movie can show perfect on one projector and then have tons of issues on another. That to me shows the projectors faults or limitations.




And that's where the VEFXi 3D-Bee Diamond comes into play. I bought this 5040 mostly because of the 3D ability that I saw when I demo'd it. 
For movies that I haven't bought in 3D format I use the 3D-Bee and works as good if not better than Natively done 3D movies.


----------



## dvdwilly3

joel dickman said:


> I posted this question recently here and got two conflicting responses. Decided to let Epson officially respond, and was told:
> 
> 1) When watching a 1080p Blu Ray disc in an old 1080p Blu Ray disc player, the Epson 4k e-shift enhancement feature and the frame interpolation feature can BOTH be used at the same time.
> 
> 2) I was also told - *contrary to Art Feierman's review at projectorreviews.com* - that the 4K enhancement feature and the frame interpolation feature can be used at the same time when watching a 4K UHD disc in a new 4K UHD player too.
> 
> 
> So I am still confused about this stuff. Is there anybody out there who can clear this up for me? _Not on the basis of reading manuals or theory_, but on the basis of personal hands-on (or eyes-on) experience with the relevant equipment and features? I need some personal testimony regarding this before laying my money down. My main focus is on watching 1080p Blu Rays rather than the newer and more problematic 4K UHD material.
> 
> Theory is gray, but the tree of life is green.
> 
> Thanks in advance, and happy viewing,
> Joel Dickman


I can confirm that (2) as stated is incorrect.

I went down to the HT and turned up a 4K disc, and when I went to the menu, Frame Interpolation on mine is grayed out...you cannot make any selection.


----------



## dvdwilly3

Dave Harper said:


> If you turned "it" off at the source (what is "it"? HDR, bt2020 or both that you turned off a the source?) If "it" was HDR, then that's because when you turn HDR off at the source device, it also automatically turns off bt2020 wide color gamut output and makes the signal 4K SDR bt709. If not, did you recalibrate for bt2020 color points? This is why you need an HDFury Integral or Linker, so it provides a special EDID to tell the source to send HDR with bt2020 and then the HDFury device strips ONLY the HDR metadata, leaving the bt2020 WCG intact to your display device. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that earlier.


I tried turning off HDR on the Panasonic UB900.

What I got for output from the player was 4K SDR BT. 709...just as Dave says...


----------



## Oledurt

Here are two images of a dark scene in hunger games: mockingjay part 2. The first is the upscaled bluray picture. The second is the uhd 4k disc with hdr 1 engaged. 

The projector is in cinema mode for the blu ray pic and bright cinema mode on the uhd pic.









Top pic shows bright cinema mode with hdr 1 active bottom shows with sdr active. You can make out more colors with hdr on but there is a loss of detail. Sdr brings back the details but with less color.








https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161205/5fb66d4b926b85cf7e9728ac593952e8.jpg[/

The only way i can get a decent contrast with hdr on is to increase the gamma curve to 2


----------



## Valleyboy

Oledurt said:


> Here are two images of a dark scene in hunger games: mockingjay part 2. The first is the upscaled bluray picture. The second is the uhd 4k disc with hdr 1 engaged.
> 
> The projector is in cinema mode for the blu ray pic and bright cinema mode on the uhd pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Quick question, as the pictures are laid out- is the first one (standard blu ray) the one on the bottom or the one on the top?


----------



## Oledurt

Valleyboy said:


> Quick question, as the pictures are laid out- is the first one (standard blu ray) the one on the bottom or the one on the top?




The top one is standard blu ray rec Bt.709 bottom is UHD rec Bt.2020 HDR 1 engaged.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Valleyboy

Oledurt said:


> The top one is standard blu ray rec Bt.709 bottom is UHD rec Bt.2020 HDR 1 engaged.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Huh, the standard blu ray looks better. Interesting. Thanks.


----------



## joel dickman

*good news for 1080p blu ray fans*



gnolivos said:


> I can confirm without a doubt that (1) is true. As for (2) I cannot recall. I returned my UHD player.


Thanks gnolivos for putting my mind at ease. I have a substantial 1080p blu ray collection, so this matters to me.

The folks who hang out on the $3000 plus forum are busy speculating about new JVC projectors that are going to be available very soon. This is an interesting time to be shopping for a new projector.

Happy Viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## joel dickman

*I trust dvdwilly3 more than the Epson answer person*



dvdwilly3 said:


> I can confirm that (2) as stated is incorrect.
> 
> I went down to the HT and turned up a 4K disc, and when I went to the menu, Frame Interpolation on mine is grayed out...you cannot make any selection.


Thanks dvdwilly3 for responding. Your experience -and Art Feierman's review - are more convincing than what the Epson guy told me.

Happy viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## dvdwilly3

joel dickman said:


> Thanks dvdwilly3 for responding. Your experience -and Art Feierman's review - are more convincing than what the Epson guy told me.
> 
> Happy viewing,
> Joel Dickman


I had a similar experience with the Epson support earlier. I think that most of those guys are more at the technical end. They really need someone on staff who can speak knowledgeably about the GUI and menu.

These units are new to these guys also.

Yea for AVS forum. We are all in this together!


----------



## NoTechi

Dave Harper said:


> If you turned "it" off at the source (what is "it"? HDR, bt2020 or both that you turned off a the source?) If "it" was HDR, then that's because when you turn HDR off at the source device, it also automatically turns off bt2020 wide color gamut output and makes the signal 4K SDR bt709. If not, did you recalibrate for bt2020 color points? This is why you need an HDFury Integral or Linker, so it provides a special EDID to tell the source to send HDR with bt2020 and then the HDFury device strips ONLY the HDR metadata, leaving the bt2020 WCG intact to your display device. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that earlier.


HDFury support told me that only the Linker is capable of scaling, the Integral can't https://www.hdfury.com/comparison/

I am getting confused now what a HDFury would be good for.

Integral and Linker: I understood both can remove HDR and keep bt2020 from any HDR source. This is only valid for sources where the Epson would be able to play HDR from (so just from UHD players)? Or would it be also possible to have e.g. on the xbox one s, which at the moment only allows Netflix with 4k SDR bt709, to play Netflix 4k bt2020 since the xbox would think HDR is possible and sends the HDR signal which would be removed by the HDFurys but bt2020 would be kept?

Linker only: Scaling would allow to send a 4k signal with HDR from e.g. Netflix or games with 60Hz and the Linker would scale it down to 1080p with HDR in 60hz which the Epson would accept? Upscaling by the Epson to 4k would not be possible since it would be still 60Hz?

And even all this would be possible is it worth it?

I am getting a headache now 

NoTechi


----------



## merceg100

I just bought 5040 and I'm really excited about my purchase! But my excitement has fall down a little bit after reading this forum for the last several pages where I read a lot about dust bulbs. I'm wondering if that thing happens what can I do to get rid of it? I mean is there a way to fix it and how, and is there a way of preventing it?


----------



## WynsWrld98

merceg100 said:


> I just bought 5040 and I'm really excited about my purchase! But my excitement has fall down a little bit after reading this forum for the last several pages where I read a lot about dust bulbs. I'm wondering if that thing happens what can I do to get rid of it? I mean is there a way to fix it and how, and is there a way of preventing it?


You can't fix it yourself, you must get a swap from Epson. I've owned a 6010 and 5030 in a house that is anything but clean, no air purifier and zero dust blobs.


----------



## Smarty-pants

merceg100 said:


> I just bought 5040 and I'm really excited about my purchase! But my excitement has fall down a little bit after reading this forum for the last several pages where I read a lot about dust bulbs. I'm wondering if that thing happens what can I do to get rid of it? I mean is there a way to fix it and how, and is there a way of preventing it?


This isn't the first time I have read such concerns from potential buyers.
I really don't think that Epson has a dust blob issue with their projectors. I have seen a couple people claim to have them,
and maybe they do, but that is just a couple people, and every device sold on the market is going to have some issues and
a certain percentage of problematic units. Doesn't matter if it's a projector, a car, a leaf blower, or whatever.
I can only tell you that I have no dust blob issues, and based on what I have read from user experience,
99%+ of owners don't either.

It's good to have concerns and do your homework on a product before buying. That is a good thing,
but with the Epson projectors, as long as you buy from an authorized dealer, you are covered under warranty.
Epson has great support and their projector exchange program is awesome. I actually took advantage of it several years back.
Had an issue with my unit and they sent me a brand new projector and after I received it I had to send the old one back.
They temporarily put a charge on my credit card for the new one until they got the old one back
and then the temp charge was removed.

I have some concerns about what my projector does functionally that may or may not be fixed with software,
but as far as something physically or mechanically happening to it, I have no worries and have confidence that
Epson will fix it. It is one of the reason why I bought it. I have had past experience with both Epson and JVC
support, and Epson is at the top and JVC at the bottom, and that is another reason why I went with Epson too.


----------



## merceg100

Smarty-pants said:


> This isn't the first time I have read such concerns from potential buyers.
> I really don't think that Epson has a dust blob issue with their projectors. I have seen a couple people claim to have them,
> and maybe they do, but that is just a couple people, and every device sold on the market is going to have some issues and
> a certain percentage of problematic units. Doesn't matter if it's a projector, a car, a leaf blower, or whatever.
> I can only tell you that I have no dust blob issues, and based on what I have read from user experience,
> 99%+ of owners don't either.
> 
> It's good to have concerns and do your homework on a product before buying. That is a good thing,
> but with the Epson projectors, as long as you buy from an authorized dealer, you are covered under warranty.
> Epson has great support and their projector exchange program is awesome. I actually took advantage of it several years back.
> Had an issue with my unit and they sent me a brand new projector and after I received it I had to send the old one back.
> They temporarily put a charge on my credit card for the new one until they got the old one back
> and then the temp charge was removed.
> 
> I have some concerns about what my projector does functionally that may or may not be fixed with software,
> but as far as something physically or mechanically happening to it, I have no worries and have confidence that
> Epson will fix it. It is one of the reason why I bought it. I have had past experience with both Epson and JVC
> support, and Epson is at the top and JVC at the bottom, and that is another reason why I went with Epson too.


Well the thing is that I bought it from authorized dealer, but the problem is that I brought it from states to my place in Europe, so it won't be much of a help here if something goes wrong  and I had to remove it from the original packeging in order to transport it.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Smarty-pants said:


> This isn't the first time I have read such concerns from potential buyers.
> I really don't think that Epson has a dust blob issue with their projectors. I have seen a couple people claim to have them,
> and maybe they do, but that is just a couple people, and every device sold on the market is going to have some issues and
> a certain percentage of problematic units. Doesn't matter if it's a projector, a car, a leaf blower, or whatever.
> I can only tell you that I have no dust blob issues, and based on what I have read from user experience,
> 99%+ of owners don't either.
> 
> It's good to have concerns and do your homework on a product before buying. That is a good thing,
> but with the Epson projectors, as long as you buy from an authorized dealer, you are covered under warranty.
> Epson has great support and their projector exchange program is awesome. I actually took advantage of it several years back.
> Had an issue with my unit and they sent me a brand new projector and after I received it I had to send the old one back.
> They temporarily put a charge on my credit card for the new one until they got the old one back
> and then the temp charge was removed.
> 
> I have some concerns about what my projector does functionally that may or may not be fixed with software,
> but as far as something physically or mechanically happening to it, I have no worries and have confidence that
> Epson will fix it. It is one of the reason why I bought it. I have had past experience with both Epson and JVC
> support, and Epson is at the top and JVC at the bottom, and that is another reason why I went with Epson too.


Re: sent you a brand new projector, that's great, but no guarantee of that, especially after a projector model has been out for awhile for them to have refurbs in their inventory. My Epson 6010 broke, I chose to send it in and have it repaired, I didn't want to play Russian roulette with getting a refurb that can have issues (e.g., bad panel alignment), Epson gives you the option to either do swap or have your own fixed.


----------



## gene4ht

Dave Harper said:


> *It is very dark*, that's why I suggest owners send in comments to implement a new firmware with some sort of HDR contrast adjustment as the Sonys have now.


While reading through these threads, owners repeatedly and overwhelmingly state how brilliant and bright the 5040 is...in cinema and bright cinema modes. My guess is these comments are in reference to HD Blu-ray material and not UHD HDR material. If this is the case and the source material is not identified, it is a bit misleading to potential buyers...particularly first time/novice buyers who would expect the same quality image irregardless of source material. Not being a first time buyer or novice, I too expected a reasonable watchable image with HDR content...not at all expecting a much darker image. Even with Al Griffin's S&V review, there was mention of a bright image and nothing of a dark image. Now that I've got this off my chest, I will again state that I really like this PJ, await a potential HDR contrast solution from Epson, enjoy the 5040 and move on.


----------



## Smarty-pants

WynsWrld98 said:


> Re: sent you a brand new projector, that's great, but no guarantee of that, especially after a projector model has been out for awhile for them to have refurbs in their inventory. My Epson 6010 broke, I chose to send it in and have it repaired, I didn't want to play Russian roulette with getting a refurb that can have issues (e.g., bad panel alignment), Epson gives you the option to either do swap or have your own fixed.


I never understood why some people hate the idea of a refurbished unit.
You send in a used unit, you get a used one back, so what. As long as it's in good condition and works well.
I can understand being scared of the unknown, but if the product is properly repaired and checked, there should be no issues.
Also when you send in your item, and it gets repaired, and they send it back, guess what... you now have a refurbished product. 
I've bought a couple refurbished items in the past, and a lot of used gear too, and never any major issues.
I just make sure I always ask the right questions and such before buying such things.
I honestly feel you have about the same chance of something happening to a new product than to a used one,
depending on the functionality of the product. It varies on a case by case basis though.
Anyway, just my opinion.


----------



## gene4ht

rupedogg24 said:


> And in all honesty I couldn't see any difference when i turned it off at the source between rec2020 and .709.
> 
> When I switched the Epson to SDR the image was flat, less color, and washed out. Better to turn it off on the Philips. No dropoff in image quality that I could see. I'll add some pics later.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


I haven't tried this yet but I will shortly and provide my impressions as well. However, I do agree with your assessment in that with HDR off in the Philips, the image is significantly better than with it on.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Smarty-pants said:


> I never understood why some people hate the idea of a refurbished unit.
> You send in a used unit, you get a used one back, so what. As long as it's in good condition and works well.
> I can understand being scared of the unknown, but if the product is properly repaired and checked, there should be no issues.
> Also when you send in your item, and it gets repaired, and they send it back, guess what... you now have a refurbished product.
> I've bought a couple refurbished items in the past, and a lot of used gear too, and never any major issues.
> I just make sure I always ask the right questions and such before buying such things.
> I honestly feel you have about the same chance of something happening to a new product than to a used one,
> depending on the functionality of the product. It varies on a case by case basis though.
> Anyway, just my opinion.


I owned the 6010 and now the 5030 and have been reading the Epson forums here ever since I bought the 6010 and have read of people going through multiple refurb projectors they received from Epson each having various problems so it all depends on how well Epson checks them out. I took the conservative route when my 6010 needed repair and had it repaired vs. getting a refurb. My 6010 had great convergence and I didn't want to risk getting a refurb with less than great convergence or other issues. I could see people reading your posting and assuming if they use Epson's swap program that they'd get a new projector back like you did, just wanted to let people know they may get a new one or a refurb.


----------



## Smarty-pants

gene4ht said:


> While reading through these threads, owners repeatedly and overwhelmingly state how brilliant and bright the 5040 is...in cinema and bright cinema modes. My guess is these comments are in reference to HD Blu-ray material and not UHD HDR material. If this is the case and the source material is not identified, it is a bit misleading to potential buyers...particularly first time/novice buyers who would expect the same quality image irregardless of source material. Not being a first time buyer or novice, I too expected a reasonable watchable image with HDR content...not at all expecting a much darker image. Even with Al Griffin's S&V review, there was mention of a bright image and nothing of a dark image. Now that I've got this off my chest, I will again state that I really like this PJ, await a potential HDR contrast solution from Epson, enjoy the 5040 and move on.


You make a good point, but if any given buyer does their homework properly,
they will find that HDR is dark and requires a ton of brightness to look as good as it can,
and there are NO projectors that are even bright enough to do HDR to it's full potential.
I mean maybe one that cost $20-$30k, I don't follow ultra high end gear, but certainly not under $15k.
The powers that be want you to buy into the new technology though, so even with reviewers it's usually going to sound like a sales pitch,
but with a few critiques thrown in.
It's always been the case that when you want the gritty truth, just ask the owners.
It can be difficult to find ALL the info you need in a place like this sometimes. So much falls in between all the banter.
The days of PnP are long gone, and sometimes it feels like a full time job just keeping up with industry news and
figuring out what gear is best to buy and then keeping up with everything surrounding your gear, etc...
It seems to never end if you always want the best out of your system.


----------



## Dave Harper

Valleyboy said:


> Huh, the standard blu ray looks better. Interesting. Thanks.


Yep, most likely due to the dark HDR issue....see below.......



NoTechi said:


> HDFury support told me that only the Linker is capable of scaling, the Integral can't https://www.hdfury.com/comparison/
> 
> I am getting confused now what a HDFury would be good for.
> 
> Integral and Linker: I understood both can remove HDR and keep bt2020 from any HDR source. This is only valid for sources where the Epson would be able to play HDR from (so just from UHD players)? Or would it be also possible to have e.g. on the xbox one s, which at the moment only allows Netflix with 4k SDR bt709, to play Netflix 4k bt2020 since the xbox would think HDR is possible and sends the HDR signal which would be removed by the HDFurys but bt2020 would be kept?
> 
> Linker only: Scaling would allow to send a 4k signal with HDR from e.g. Netflix or games with 60Hz and the Linker would scale it down to 1080p with HDR in 60hz which the Epson would accept? Upscaling by the Epson to 4k would not be possible since it would be still 60Hz?
> 
> And even all this would be possible is it worth it?
> 
> I am getting a headache now
> 
> NoTechi


Yes, you're right that only the Linker does any kind of scaling. The Integral just mainly does custom EDID and HDR metadata. I am by far no expert on these though, so I would highly recommend heeding HDFury's awesome advice. They will ask you what source devices and displays you have and then what you hope to accomplish. Then they'll offer which solution is best, Integral, Linker or both.

I believe you're right, that you could possibly use the Linker to scale the 60Hz signal to something the 5040/6040 could input properly. Once again though, HDFury is the one I would go to for definitive advice.



gene4ht said:


> While reading through these threads, owners repeatedly and overwhelmingly state how brilliant and bright the 5040 is...in cinema and bright cinema modes. My guess is these comments are in reference to HD Blu-ray material and not UHD HDR material. If this is the case and the source material is not identified, it is a bit misleading to potential buyers...particularly first time/novice buyers who would expect the same quality image irregardless of source material. Not being a first time buyer or novice, I too expected a reasonable watchable image with HDR content...not at all expecting a much darker image. Even with Al Griffin's S&V review, there was mention of a bright image and nothing of a dark image. Now that I've got this off my chest, I will again state that I really like this PJ, await a potential HDR contrast solution from Epson, enjoy the 5040 and move on.


Yes, Those modes are brighter....when compared to the other HDR modes, but certainly not compared to SDR with something like a regular HD bluray. That's why many people see the various screen shots here and that Sony article that's been posted and keep saying the SDR images look better. This is why many with projectors are getting HDFury devices to strip HDR and keep WCG bt2020. It certainly appears the lumen brightness is there to be utilized, as the new Sony FW using lower lumen projectors clearly shows. For some reason the Epsons aren't taking full advantage of their 2500 lumen capability with HDR though. I wonder why that would be? (that's a serious question, I'm not being sarcastic.)



Smarty-pants said:


> I never understood why some people hate the idea of a refurbished unit.
> You send in a used unit, you get a used one back, so what. As long as it's in good condition and works well.
> I can understand being scared of the unknown, but if the product is properly repaired and checked, there should be no issues.
> Also when you send in your item, and it gets repaired, and they send it back, guess what... you now have a refurbished product.
> I've bought a couple refurbished items in the past, and a lot of used gear too, and never any major issues.
> I just make sure I always ask the right questions and such before buying such things.
> I honestly feel you have about the same chance of something happening to a new product than to a used one,
> depending on the functionality of the product. It varies on a case by case basis though.
> Anyway, just my opinion.


I always kind of didn't mind getting refurb and B-Stock. At least I knew that unit was put on a tech's bench and tested to work properly by the time it left his/her bench!


----------



## Smarty-pants

WynsWrld98 said:


> I owned the 6010 and now the 5030 and have been reading the Epson forums here ever since I bought the 6010 and have read of people going through multiple refurb projectors they received from Epson each having various problems so it all depends on how well Epson checks them out. I took the conservative route when my 6010 needed repair and had it repaired vs. getting a refurb. My 6010 had great convergence and I didn't want to risk getting a refurb with less than great convergence or other issues. I could see people reading your posting and assuming if they use Epson's swap program that they'd get a new projector back like you did, just wanted to let people know they may get a new one or a refurb.


Ok no worries. I honestly didn't know they would even send a refurb as opposed to a new one,
or maybe they just send them later in the warranty cycle when they run out of new ones.
I'd be kinda pissed if I had a 2 month old PJ and it was swapped with a refurb.
They should guarantee a swap with a new one for at least a certain time period.

In that case years ago, I actually bought a refurb directly from Epson.
Back then there was no choice and they just sent me one and to my surprise it was brand new.
The issue I had with mine turned out to be embedded in all their PJs though, but they apparently didn't know it.
I was happy to swap a refurb one for a new one though, lol.
The refurb one I bought looked and worked like new though.
The one I bought had several hundred hours on the lamp when I had to send it in,
so I got a brand new lamp out of the deal too.


----------



## gene4ht

Smarty-pants said:


> You make a good point, but if any given buyer does their homework properly,
> they will find that HDR is dark and requires a ton of brightness to look as good as it can,
> and there are NO projectors that are even bright enough to do HDR to it's full potential.
> I mean maybe one that cost $20-$30k, I don't follow ultra high end gear, but certainly not under $15k.
> The powers that be want you to buy into the new technology though, so even with reviewers it's usually going to sound like a sales pitch,
> but with a few critiques thrown in.
> It's always been the case that when you want the gritty truth, just ask the owners.
> It can be difficult to find ALL the info you need in a place like this sometimes. So much falls in between all the banter.
> The days of PnP are long gone, and sometimes it feels like a full time job just keeping up with industry news and
> figuring out what gear is best to buy and then keeping up with everything surrounding your gear, etc...
> It seems to never end if you always want the best out of your system.


Problem is...I know...been around this block and actually did some homework! Just wanted to rant a bit! I'm OK now! Appreciate your "voice of reason." Thanks!!!


----------



## gene4ht

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, Those modes are brighter....when compared to the other HDR modes, but certainly not compared to SDR with something like a regular HD bluray. That's why many people see the various screen shots here and that Sony article that's been posted and keep saying the SDR images look better. This is why many with projectors are getting HDFury devices to strip HDR and keep WCG bt2020. It certainly appears the lumen brightness is there to be utilized, as the new Sony FW using lower lumen projectors clearly shows. For some reason the Epsons aren't taking full advantage of their 2500 lumen capability with HDR though. I wonder why that would be? (that's a serious question, I'm not being sarcastic.)


Another logical level headed person! Thanks to you as well Dave!


----------



## seplant

gnolivos said:


> I'm testing this myself now. I will report back!


gnolivos, I'm just curious if your lens memory issues have been resolved.


----------



## gnolivos

seplant said:


> gnolivos, I'm just curious if your lens memory issues have been resolved.




I tested the procedure. Upon memory recall it is still off but by much less. I think it helped. Will keep on testing.


----------



## J Crew

Hello everyone. I'm building a house and have designed a basic space for a media/theater room that is 100% ambient light controlled. I'm wanting to put up a 120" 16:9 screen with a throw distance of around 12'-13'. What is the closest sitting distance that I can achieve with this projector?

This information will help me design the seating and rear bar area better. The rear area of the room is dependent on the location of the theater seating.

Thanks in advanced.


----------



## Stecchino

JewDaddy said:


> Certain 3D movies don't play well with the Epson projector. Not sure why. Some are almost unwatchable. But others are perfect. For instance, Jurassic World looked incredible in 3D on the Epson. But Terminator Genesis and a lot of the Jungle Book looked horrible and almost unwatchable. Seems to happen with darker movies.


I have just installed the 5040, upgrading from my Epson 3500. I had zero ghosting problems that I could recall with my 3500 unit. Tonight I tried 3D for the first time (A Christmas Carol 3D, Gravity 3D) and got blurriness and what I suppose is crosstalk sometimes. Certain scenes, usually dark (but certainly not always dark ones), triggered this unhappiness. As a big 3D fan, I am more than a little bummed at how the 5040 is performing with 3D. 



JewDaddy said:


> Contrary to what some people might tell you, there are absolutely no pair of 3-D glasses that will help with crosstalk. That has nothing to do with the glasses and has everything to do with the projector itself. The only thing an expensive pair of glasses might help with, are two things. More light output and comfort. I have four different brands of glasses. The cheapest coming in at $20 a pair and the most expensive coming in at $100 a pair. Absolutely makes no difference with crosstalk. Don't go down that route and start spending a lot of time and money to fix the issue. Unfortunately with this projector it is what it is. The crosstalk is there and will be more noticeable on certain films.
> 
> I've also found that certain scenes can trigger the projector to maybe shift the lens to where crosstalk is a lot more noticeable. I say this because as I was watching the jungle book in 3-D, everything was going great and I hadn't noticed any cross talk until the scene where it's raining at the very beginning. After about 30 seconds I noticed that the lens almost went out of focus. After that scene was over, the next scene was very bright and colorful. At first, there was a lot of cross talk. But then all of a sudden I noticed that the screen sort of flickered and the crosstalk went away. It's almost as if there something that happens in the movies were watching that can trigger cross talk. Or maybe I'm crazy! LOL. It would be great if somebody that also owns the jungle book in 3-D can test my theory. Again, if anyone does check this, everything looked great up until the scene where it starts to rain and the little boy is walking with the wolves.
> 
> I also think one of the reasons why professional reviewers give the 3-D on this projector such high reviews is because they're not watching enough 3-D content to actually see the problems that occur. For some reason, crosstalk seems to happen the more you watch a 3-D movie. I don't know why but it does.
> 
> Please don't think I'm bashing the 3-D on this projector because I have definitely seen a lot worse. But I've also seen a lot better. Certain movies look outstanding and you would never think there was an issue with 3-D on this thing. But then other movies start to show its faults. I would like to hear some other peoples opinions on this and what movies they watch it in 3-D that looked fantastic without any cross talk.


I also just recently bought Jungle Book on 3D and so I will report back. I have already started to take notes on which scenes in which movies seem to most often become blurry and crosstalky. I don't know if the 3D Signal menu settings (Menu -> Signal -> 3D Setup...) on the 5040 and it's various settings can help with this. I maxed out the 3D brightness and tweaked the diagonal size. Viewing in color mode 3D Dynamic.

I will also, as soon as I can, compare and contrast the same movies and scenes with the Epson 3500 and confirm whether the 3500 suffers from the same problems as the 5040.


----------



## hatlesschimp

rupedogg24 said:


> And in all honesty I couldn't see any difference when i turned it off at the source between rec2020 and .709.
> 
> When I switched the Epson to SDR the image was flat, less color, and washed out. Better to turn it off on the Philips. No dropoff in image quality that I could see. I'll add some pics later.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


I think if you never seen both you would be happy with either. I kind of think rec2020 looks a little too colourful. Skin tone is a dead giveaway btw.


----------



## hatlesschimp

J Crew said:


> Hello everyone. I'm building a house and have designed a basic space for a media/theater room that is 100% ambient light controlled. I'm wanting to put up a 120" 16:9 screen with a throw distance of around 12'-13'. What is the closest sitting distance that I can achieve with this projector?
> 
> This information will help me design the seating and rear bar area better. The rear area of the room is dependent on the location of the theater seating.
> 
> Thanks in advanced.


At 3.5m from lens to wall makes 110" image fully wide. I've sat at 7 feet whilst gaming trying to concentrate but had to reduce image size to 95" to 100"( at a guess.). 
At 110" im comfotable with 8.5 feet being the closest id want to sit.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Stecchino said:


> I have just installed the 5040, upgrading from my Epson 3500. I had zero ghosting problems that I could recall with my 3500 unit. Tonight I tried 3D for the first time (A Christmas Carol 3D, Gravity 3D) and got blurriness and what I suppose is crosstalk sometimes. Certain scenes, usually dark (but certainly not always dark ones), triggered this unhappiness. As a big 3D fan, I am more than a little bummed at how the 5040 is performing with 3D.
> 
> 
> 
> I also just recently bought Jungle Book on 3D and so I will report back. I have already started to take notes on which scenes in which movies seem to most often become blurry and crosstalky. I don't know if the 3D Signal menu settings (Menu -> Signal -> 3D Setup...) on the 5040 and it's various settings can help with this. I maxed out the 3D brightness and tweaked the diagonal size. Viewing in color mode 3D Dynamic.
> 
> I will also, as soon as I can, compare and contrast the same movies and scenes with the Epson 3500 and confirm whether the 3500 suffers from the same problems as the 5040.


Tweaking (lowering from maxed out) the 3D Brightness setting under 3D Setup should help matters, setting it maxed out definitely would give ghosting in difficult scenes (assuming same result as what it does on my Epson 5030).


----------



## dvdwilly3

Smarty-pants said:


> You make a good point, but if any given buyer does their homework properly,
> they will find that HDR is dark and requires a ton of brightness to look as good as it can,
> and there are NO projectors that are even bright enough to do HDR to it's full potential.
> I mean maybe one that cost $20-$30k, I don't follow ultra high end gear, but certainly not under $15k.
> The powers that be want you to buy into the new technology though, so even with reviewers it's usually going to sound like a sales pitch,
> but with a few critiques thrown in.
> It's always been the case that when you want the gritty truth, just ask the owners.
> It can be difficult to find ALL the info you need in a place like this sometimes. So much falls in between all the banter.
> The days of PnP are long gone, and sometimes it feels like a full time job just keeping up with industry news and
> figuring out what gear is best to buy and then keeping up with everything surrounding your gear, etc...
> It seems to never end if you always want the best out of your system.


Or, as my wife says, 

"And, why is it you are changing your (fill in the blank ____) again? You said that had everything that you need!"

Too true!


----------



## seplant

Stecchino said:


> I have just installed the 5040, upgrading from my Epson 3500. I had zero ghosting problems that I could recall with my 3500 unit. Tonight I tried 3D for the first time (A Christmas Carol 3D, Gravity 3D) and got blurriness and what I suppose is crosstalk sometimes. Certain scenes, usually dark (but certainly not always dark ones), triggered this unhappiness. As a big 3D fan, I am more than a little bummed at how the 5040 is performing with 3D.
> 
> 
> 
> I also just recently bought Jungle Book on 3D and so I will report back. I have already started to take notes on which scenes in which movies seem to most often become blurry and crosstalky. I don't know if the 3D Signal menu settings (Menu -> Signal -> 3D Setup...) on the 5040 and it's various settings can help with this. I maxed out the 3D brightness and tweaked the diagonal size. Viewing in color mode 3D Dynamic.
> 
> I will also, as soon as I can, compare and contrast the same movies and scenes with the Epson 3500 and confirm whether the 3500 suffers from the same problems as the 5040.


Be sure to read post #3787 and see if that helps. Please report back if it does.


----------



## J Crew

hatlesschimp said:


> At 3.5m from lens to wall makes 110" image fully wide. I've sat at 7 feet whilst gaming trying to concentrate but had to reduce image size to 95" to 100"( at a guess.).
> At 110" im comfotable with 8.5 feet being the closest id want to sit.


Thanks @hatlesschimp for the quick response. So for gaming it sounds like you suggest viewing around 9 feet for my parameters? Does this distance recommendation change for movie watching?

Thanks again!


----------



## dholmes54

Is it OK to clean the lens with Zeiss wipes that I use on my glasses?


----------



## hatlesschimp

J Crew said:


> Thanks @hatlesschimp for the quick response. So for gaming it sounds like you suggest viewing around 9 feet for my parameters? Does this distance recommendation change for movie watching?
> 
> Thanks again!


I thought you wanted to know the closest you could sit. I was think you were trying to calculate if you could fit a second row.
I think 120" 16:9 @ 4m is the max size. Im comfortable with 3m around 103" with my makeshift setup at the moment. I think 110" is too big for some games at 3m but Fifa its good. At my new house I will have 103" at 4m because Ive gone for a cinemascope screen 135".


----------



## robc1976

hatlesschimp said:


> At 3.5m from lens to wall makes 110" image fully wide. I've sat at 7 feet whilst gaming trying to concentrate but had to reduce image size to 95" to 100"( at a guess.).
> At 110" im comfotable with 8.5 feet being the closest id want to sit.


I guess my 2.35:1 138" will be fine since my 16:9 will be around 110" (16:9 110" is 54" tall so is a 138" 2.35:1).

I am at 16ft


----------



## Stecchino

caveman2000 said:


> I did a lot of 3D testing the last days on the 5040. The most important option to reduce ghosting is 'Signal->3D Setup->3D Brightness' setting. Here you can trade brightness against ghosting by changing the timing of the 3D glasses's shutter. 'medium' will do for most movies to reduce ghosting to an acceptable level. 'low' nearly eliminated ghosting in all my test-scenes, leaving only a small trace here and there. But the picture will become quite dark (depending on the size of the screen), so the high lamp mode might be a 'must' to compensate for it.
> 
> To minimize ghosting, the 'Diagonal Screen Size' should be set to the correct value.
> 
> '3D Depth' let you shift the point of minimal ghosting. This is a 'dangerous' parameter, which might lead to extreme ghosting. If you have prominent ghosting on an object in the front, you can adjust the '3D Depth' so that the ghosting completely vanishes, only to emphasis ghosting on all objects in the back. I would recommend only values between '-1' and '1' here.
> 
> Of course, if the 3D image is completely strange, the 3D glasses might have synchronized with an inverse timing (especially if glasses of other brands are used), so 'Inverse 3D Glasses' may correct this.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Marc


*Many many thanks for sharing your findings!* 

Based on this I am happy to correlate your experience. Reducing 3D Brightness to LOW produced a dramatic improvement in overall 3D quality in several test scenes. The decrease in the amount of blurriness or crosstalk in certain scenes in A Christmas Carol 3D and Gravity 3D was obvious.

My current settings now that I will live with for a bit and continue testing content:


*3D Brightness*: LOW (mandatory)
*Color Mode*: 3D Dynamic (helps counteract the darker 3D image)
*Power Consumption*: HIGH (to each his own)
*Screen size currently*: 110" diagonal (Epson is set to match)


----------



## hatlesschimp

robc1976 said:


> I guess my 2.35:1 138" will be fine since my 16:9 will be around 110" (16:9 110" is 54" tall so is a 138" 2.35:1).
> 
> I am at 16ft


Im rolling at 2.37:1 so I guess im just that little bit less again in height.

http://www.projectorscreens.com.au/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=42


----------



## robc1976

hatlesschimp said:


> Im rolling at 2.37:1 so I guess im just that little bit less again in height.
> 
> http://www.projectorscreens.com.au/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=42


 how do you like it for gaming? How far way do you sit?


----------



## J Crew

hatlesschimp said:


> Im rolling at 2.37:1 so I guess im just that little bit less again in height.
> 
> http://www.projectorscreens.com.au/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=42


I am open to cinemascope/2.35:1 ratio.

Yes, you are correct. I'm wanting to know the closest I can sit to the screen before it becomes too close. Both for gaming on my xbox one s and for watching movies. My throw distance will be between 12'-13'.

Thanks again.


----------



## Everdog

Dave Harper said:


> It is very dark, that's why I suggest owners send in comments to implement a new firmware with some sort of HDR contrast adjustment as the Sonys have now.



I've noticed that the HDR modes are very dark too. I need to do some testing and make sure the colors are right, because when my 5040 is set to one of the HDR modes, it gets very dark and sometimes very ugly.


----------



## Oledurt

Everdog said:


> I've noticed that the HDR modes are very dark too. I need to do some testing and make sure the colors are right, because when my 5040 is set to one of the HDR modes, it gets very dark and sometimes very ugly.




i have been trying to deal with this as well. I have spent a lot of time working adjusting brightness and contrast, and to be honest HDR on this projector in its current form sucks.

In my opinion it ruins the picture, and it looks worse than 1080p. Last night I made some changes that have drastically improved the picture.

Try this and watch a UHD blu ray let me know how it works.

I have the samsung k8500 uhd player. I forced the color to RGB. If you have a different player turn off hdr or force the color out of Y'CbCr. 

Next in the projector settings force SDR. Finally, set the colorspace to BT2020.

What this does is remove the HDR, but keeps the bt2020 wide colorspace. 

You can switch back and forth from rec709 to bt2020 color if you want to see the improvement. 

I have it set up this way, and now the picture is stunning. Epson needs to fix HDR on this projector, because the way it is implemented actually ruins the picture.

I also have the HD Fury linker arriving tomorrow, and I will test stripping HDR with that and see if it is different than the above mentioned method.

bottom line. Remove HDR if you want the picture to look good with UHD.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

Oledurt said:


> i have been trying to deal with this as well. I have spent a lot of time working adjusting brightness and contrast, and to be honest HDR on this projector in its current form sucks.
> 
> In my opinion it ruins the picture, and it looks worse than 1080p. Last night I made some changes that have drastically improved the picture.
> 
> Try this and watch a UHD blu ray let me know how it works.
> 
> I have the samsung k8500 uhd player. I forced the color to RGB. If you have a different player turn off hdr or force the color out of Y'CbCr.
> 
> Next in the projector settings force SDR. Finally, set the colorspace to BT2020.
> 
> What this does is remove the HDR, but keeps the bt2020 wide colorspace.
> 
> You can switch back and forth from rec709 to bt2020 color if you want to see the improvement.
> 
> I have it set up this way, and now the picture is stunning. Epson needs to fix HDR on this projector, because the way it is implemented actually ruins the picture.
> 
> I also have the HD Fury linker arriving tomorrow, and I will test stripping HDR with that and see if it is different than the above mentioned method.
> 
> bottom line. Remove HDR if you want the picture to look good with UHD.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




This is just UNBELIEVABLE and an EPIC FAIL on Epson's part. That so many people from around the world have to have a PhD in HDRology and come up with some complex mathematical equation for this HDR Projector to work with HDR. For a Decade anyone with little or NO knowledge of high Def or 1080 that bought a blu ray player, a blu ray movie and a HD tv ALWAYS got a HD signal and watched thousands of movies, tv shows, commercials, etc.


----------



## gnolivos

Ok I've had enough, we need to do something about this HDR problem. 

ANYONE and EVERYONE dissatisfied with HDR on their 5040/6040 you must call Epson and explain your problem. If they get say 200 calls on this issue, trust me, they WILL try to do something about it within reason (technical and financial). 

If this gets us nowhere, I will craft an email to Epson Projector VP. 

CALL EPSON PROJECTOR SUPPORT:

(562) 276-4394

Hours :

Monday – Friday 6 am – 8 pm (PT)
Saturday 7 am – 4 pm (PT)


----------



## Stecchino

gnolivos said:


> Ok I've had enough, we need to do something about this HDR problem.
> 
> ANYONE and EVERYONE dissatisfied with HDR on their 5040/6040 you must call Epson and explain your problem. If they get say 200 calls on this issue, trust me, they WILL try to do something about it within reason (technical and financial).
> 
> If this gets us nowhere, I will craft an email to Epson Projector VP.
> 
> CALL EPSON PROJECTOR SUPPORT:
> 
> (562) 276-4394
> 
> Hours :
> 
> Monday – Friday 6 am – 8 pm (PT)
> Saturday 7 am – 4 pm (PT)


In a nutshell, what should we report? I haven't had any time to experiment with HDR or troubleshoot but am willing to report the issues that every unit is experiencing to raise awareness.


----------



## gnolivos

Stecchino said:


> In a nutshell, what should we report? I haven't had any time to experiment with HDR or troubleshoot but am willing to report the issues that every unit is experiencing to raise awareness.




I'd keep it honest. If you aren't personally going through issues don't call. They will be asking detailed questions such as what player, what movies, etc. 

I strongly suggest you do not call if you don't have first-hand experience with these issues.


----------



## Oledurt

gnolivos said:


> I'd keep it honest. If you aren't personally going through issues don't call. They will be asking detailed questions such as what player, what movies, etc.
> 
> I strongly suggest you do not call if you don't have first-hand experience with these issues.




I have contacted Epson via email but i will follow up with a phone call. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdwilly3

Oledurt said:


> i have been trying to deal with this as well. I have spent a lot of time working adjusting brightness and contrast, and to be honest HDR on this projector in its current form sucks.
> 
> In my opinion it ruins the picture, and it looks worse than 1080p. Last night I made some changes that have drastically improved the picture.
> 
> Try this and watch a UHD blu ray let me know how it works.
> 
> I have the samsung k8500 uhd player. I forced the color to RGB. If you have a different player turn off hdr or force the color out of Y'CbCr.
> 
> Next in the projector settings force SDR. Finally, set the colorspace to BT2020.
> 
> What this does is remove the HDR, but keeps the bt2020 wide colorspace.
> 
> You can switch back and forth from rec709 to bt2020 color if you want to see the improvement.
> 
> I have it set up this way, and now the picture is stunning. Epson needs to fix HDR on this projector, because the way it is implemented actually ruins the picture.
> 
> I also have the HD Fury linker arriving tomorrow, and I will test stripping HDR with that and see if it is different than the above mentioned method.
> 
> bottom line. Remove HDR if you want the picture to look good with UHD.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


How are the colors on standard bluray?


----------



## Oledurt

perfect


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

dvdwilly3 said:


> How are the colors on standard bluray?




perfect


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

rupedogg24 said:


> I've given up on HDR (for now).





gene4ht said:


> The Martian and The Revenant were both overly dark for my liking with the out of box settings. I'm projecting onto a 115" 1.1gain screen from 12' in a completely light controlled room.





achanonier said:


> I already sent them a email for the exact same thing !
> We really need that HDR contrast adjustment !





Dave Harper said:


> It is very dark, that's why I suggest owners send in comments to implement a new firmware with some sort of HDR contrast adjustment as the Sonys have now.





Everdog said:


> I've noticed that the HDR modes are very dark too. I need to do some testing and make sure the colors are right, because when my 5040 is set to one of the HDR modes, it gets very dark and sometimes very ugly.





Oledurt said:


> i have been trying to deal with this as well. I have spent a lot of time working adjusting brightness and contrast, and to be honest HDR on this projector in its current form sucks.





sddp said:


> This is just UNBELIEVABLE and an EPIC FAIL on Epson's part. That so many people from around the world have to have a PhD in HDRology and come up with some complex mathematical equation for this HDR Projector to work with HDR. For a Decade anyone with little or NO knowledge of high Def or 1080 that bought a blu ray player, a blu ray movie and a HD tv ALWAYS got a HD signal and watched thousands of movies, tv shows, commercials, etc.





gnolivos said:


> Ok I've had enough, we need to do something about this HDR problem.
> 
> CALL EPSON PROJECTOR SUPPORT:
> 
> (562) 276-4394
> 
> Hours :
> 
> Monday – Friday 6 am – 8 pm (PT)
> Saturday 7 am – 4 pm (PT)



WOW! Looks like @rupedogg24 and I opened up Pandora's box...was wondering why there wasn't more widespread agreement and concern. I totally agree with 99% of @Smarty-pants comments but take "minor" exception to the last statement..."It seems to never end if you always want the best out of your system."

This is absolutely true for all of us. However, the issue here is that we should expect the starting point to be minimally at an acceptable level for any given product. I will be placing a courteous and cordial call to Epson. Thanks gnolivos!


----------



## Oledurt

gene4ht said:


> WOW! Looks like @rupedogg24 and I opened up Pandora's box...was wondering why there wasn't more widespread agreement and concern. I totally agree with 99% of @Smarty-pants comments but take "minor" exception to the last statement..."It seems to never end if you always want the best out of your system."
> 
> This is absolutely true for all of us. However, the issue here is that we should expect the starting point to be minimally at an acceptable level for any given product. I will be placing a courteous and cordial call to Epson. Thanks gnolivos!




i am on the phone with epson right now. sent them screenshots issue is being escalated as i type lol


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Everdog

Oledurt said:


> i have been trying to deal with this as well. I have spent a lot of time working adjusting brightness and contrast, and to be honest HDR on this projector in its current form sucks.
> 
> In my opinion it ruins the picture, and it looks worse than 1080p. Last night I made some changes that have drastically improved the picture.
> 
> Try this and watch a UHD blu ray let me know how it works.
> 
> I have the samsung k8500 uhd player. I forced the color to RGB. If you have a different player turn off hdr or force the color out of Y'CbCr.
> 
> Next in the projector settings force SDR. Finally, set the colorspace to BT2020.
> 
> What this does is remove the HDR, but keeps the bt2020 wide colorspace.
> 
> You can switch back and forth from rec709 to bt2020 color if you want to see the improvement.
> 
> I have it set up this way, and now the picture is stunning. Epson needs to fix HDR on this projector, because the way it is implemented actually ruins the picture.
> 
> I also have the HD Fury linker arriving tomorrow, and I will test stripping HDR with that and see if it is different than the above mentioned method.
> 
> bottom line. Remove HDR if you want the picture to look good with UHD.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I have the Costco version of the Samsung player and will give this a try. Where do I change the to the bt2020 wide colorspace? Is that easy to find? I don't remember seeing it off the top of my head.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Oledurt said:


> i am on the phone with epson right now. sent them screenshots issue is being escalated as i type lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I've seen people post on one of the Epson or JVC forums of people having both an Epson 5040/6040 and a JVC (e.g., RS400), I'd be curious if they see an offending UHD 4K HDR title/scene on one projector and play it back on the other if it comes down to certain titles are just mastered too dark in HDR for projectors in general re: how many lumens the current models can pump out. I would think some titles/scenes would look OK in HDR on these projectors and some not but that is just a guess. In order to get anywhere near the HDR experience flat screens deliver I would think the answer is projectors will have to really be able to increase lumens a lot.


----------



## Oledurt

Everdog said:


> I have the Costco version of the Samsung player and will give this a try. Where do I change the to the bt2020 wide colorspace? Is that easy to find? I don't remember seeing it off the top of my head.




in the projector settings signal tab advanced colorspace


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

WynsWrld98 said:


> I've seen people post on one of the Epson or JVC forums of people having both an Epson 5040/6040 and a JVC (e.g., RS400), I'd be curious if they see an offending UHD 4K HDR title/scene on one projector and play it back on the other if it comes down to certain titles are just mastered too dark in HDR for projectors in general re: how many lumens the current models can pump out. I would think some titles/scenes would look OK in HDR on these projectors and some not but that is just a guess. In order to get anywhere near the HDR experience flat screens deliver I would think the answer is projectors will have to really be able to increase lumens a lot.


Most of us are likely in agreement that current PJ's lack the necessary lumens to provide "stellar" HDR performance. And it's also likely that there is a variation in HDR title mastering. I think however that if a manufacturer markets it's product as HDR compatible/capable, the consumer should expect a minimum level of "acceptable" performance. If this can't be managed, then a performance disclaimer should be included. IMO, manufacturers have an obligation to perform some level of due diligence...i.e. test with as much available content as possible and with consumer panels. I realize these are all idealistic scenarios and the reality today varies. Relative to HDR implementation, it's really in infancy going through growing pains. The solution, I feel, lies in the near future when standards (for HDR hardware and software) are developed, implemented, and met. Meanwhile, we should expect caring and concerned manufacturers to follow Sony's (per Dave Harper) lead and provide interim solutions to its consumers.


----------



## Oledurt

gene4ht said:


> Most of us are likely in agreement that current PJ's lack the necessary lumens to provide "stellar" HDR performance. And it's also likely that there is a variation in HDR title mastering. I think however that if a manufacturer markets it's product as HDR compatible/capable, the consumer should expect a minimum level of "acceptable" performance. If this can't be managed, then a performance disclaimer should be included. IMO, manufacturers have an obligation to perform some level of due diligence...i.e. test with as much available content as possible and with consumer panels. I realize these are all idealistic scenarios and the reality today varies. Relative to HDR implementation, it's really in infancy going through growing pains. The solution, I feel, lies in the near future when standards (for HDR hardware and software) are developed, implemented, and met. Meanwhile, we should expect caring and concerned manufacturers to follow Sony's (per Dave Harper) lead and provide interim solutions to its consumers.




I spoke with a representative at Epson today who promised to take my information to senior people. I have dealt with Epson before and they really do care about what we say.

I sent some screenshots and I will share them here with you. Basically what you can see is that HDR mode is too dark and details are lost. Color may be superior but you sacrifice the detail in the image.

When you look at SDR you see all the detail return, and even upscaled blu ray has more detail than UHD with HDR on. That is not a good thing. All the hype is about how much better UHD is and HDR. Epson has a real problem here.

The projector is in bright cinema mode on all these screenshots.

This first image is take from UHD 4k Hunger Games Mocking Jay part 2. It is a darker image and HDR 1 is engaged.










Same Image with HDR 1 off










Different image HDR 1 engaged. Same UHD Disc










Same image with HDR 1 off










Now we have the same images on the regular Blu Ray rec.709 and SDR engage. 4k pixel shift is on as well.




















Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Waikis

I've been playing around with HDR and linker as well, some comments (correct me if i'm wrong):



Oledurt said:


> Next in the projector settings force SDR. Finally, set the colorspace to BT2020.
> What this does is remove the HDR, but keeps the bt2020 wide colorspace.


When you do this, the HDR isn't actually stripped, rather you are telling the projector to apply SDR processing, ie. apply the standard 2.2 gamma curve rather than ST2084. This results in a washed out look in my experience. 



Oledurt said:


> You can switch back and forth from rec709 to bt2020 color if you want to see the improvement.


The signal sent from UHD is still bt2020, when you manually select the color space in the projector, it applies the rec 709 processing to the bt2020 signal which might undersaturate the colour. (not sure about this point, others can chime in)

A more accurate way to test the differences would be to ensure that the signal is natively rec 709 and bt2020. 



Oledurt said:


> I also have the HD Fury linker arriving tomorrow, and I will test stripping HDR with that and see if it is different than the above mentioned method.


I bought the Linker because a lot of people said that it can strip the HDR while retaining WCG. I find this statement to be inaccurate. 

The linker is just a scaler / on-the-fly EDID editor which can tell your source whether your unit is capable of WCG+HDR or just HDR. It doesn't actually remap the colour space nor process HDR image into SDR, this will be left to your source device.

For my PS4 pro, EDID#10 (WCG only with HDR disabled) means that my projector is flagged as not having HDR capability, and thus the HDR function is disabled within PS4 pro itself. The only way to "strip" HDR, is to use the normal EDID and windows GUI to remove the HDR metadata from the signal. But this merely tells the epson to use the SDR processing instead of HDR, the signal itself is HDR. Essentially, this is the same result as not having the linker altogether and just manually select SDR. Either way (with Linker or not) you will get a washed out image. 
I don't see any way to actually separate WCG and HDR with ps4 pro with the WCG image properly remapped to the standard gamma curve. 

Now, there might be UHD players out there that can let you independently turn off HDR or WCG and process the image accordingly. If you have that kind of player, using EDID#10 will let you properly strip HDR out of the signal and process it correctly. This is how the JVC users have been doing it as far as I know.

Others more knowledgeable please correct me, I'm still figuring out these things too.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> If you have a different player turn off hdr .
> 
> Next in the projector settings force SDR. Finally, set the colorspace to BT2020.


IMHO you are doing redundant things. 
May be following will work exactly the same way

Option 1:
- HDR off in the player
- Simply change color space to BT202 in Epson

Option 2:
- Leave HDR on in the player
- Set Dynamic Range to SDR and color space to BT2020 in Epson



Theoretically Option2 should be better, assuming WCG reaches the PJ and is still maintained by the forced settings on it. But I may be wrong.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> rspace.
> 
> I also have the HD Fury linker arriving tomorrow, and I will test stripping HDR with that and see if it is different than the above mentioned method.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


This would be really interesting and everyone is waiting for the results.
If it works better HDFury will be flooded with (pre)orders from Epson owners..


----------



## Oledurt

Waikis said:


> I've been playing around with HDR and linker as well, some comments (correct me if i'm wrong):
> 
> 
> 
> When you do this, the HDR isn't actually stripped, rather you are telling the projector to apply SDR processing, ie. apply the standard 2.2 gamma curve rather than ST2084. This results in a washed out look in my experience.
> 
> 
> 
> The signal sent from UHD is still bt2020, when you manually select the color space in the projector, it applies the rec 709 processing to the bt2020 signal which might undersaturate the colour. (not sure about this point, others can chime in)
> 
> A more accurate way to test the differences would be to ensure that the signal is natively rec 709 and bt2020.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the Linker because a lot of people said that it can strip the HDR while retaining WCG. I find this statement to be inaccurate.
> 
> The linker is just a scaler / on-the-fly EDID editor which can tell your source whether your unit is capable of WCG+HDR or just HDR. It doesn't actually remap the colour space nor process HDR image into SDR, this will be left to your source device.
> 
> For my PS4 pro, EDID#10 (WCG only with HDR disabled) means that my projector is flagged as not having HDR capability, and thus the HDR function is disabled within PS4 pro itself. The only way to "strip" HDR, is to use the normal EDID and windows GUI to remove the HDR metadata from the signal. But this merely tells the epson to use the SDR processing instead of HDR, the signal itself is HDR. Essentially, this is the same result as not having the linker altogether and just manually select SDR. Either way (with Linker or not) you will get a washed out image.
> I don't see any way to actually separate WCG and HDR with ps4 pro with the WCG image properly remapped to the standard gamma curve.
> 
> Now, there might be UHD players out there that can let you independently turn off HDR or WCG and process the image accordingly. If you have that kind of player, using EDID#10 will let you properly strip HDR out of the signal and process it correctly. This is how the JVC users have been doing it as far as I know.
> 
> Others more knowledgeable please correct me, I'm still figuring out these things too.




Well this is disappointing to hear as I ordered the HDFury linker I thought it would work. 

I guess it now comes down to either I just deal with the darker images or I get a different projector.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Oledurt said:


> I spoke with a representative at Epson today who promised to take my information to senior people. I have dealt with Epson before and they really do care about what we say.


I too called and spoke with a tech support rep who identified himself as Paul. He indicated that although the number provided by @gnolivos routes through Long Beach, CA, he was actually based in Manila. After telling him the reason for my call, he indicated that this is the first he's heard of any HDR issues with the 5040/6040 and felt it was an isolated problem. From my experience with manufacturer's call center scripted procedures, this is a common first level response. At any rate, I assured him the issue is more widespread. He then requested only very basic information...PJ model number, source device, if the source connection was direct (to PJ) or indirect (via processor) and a description of the issue...that's all. With this information, he indicated a case number would be created (I have it) and the case would be escalated to second level support. I'm glad it's now documented but not completely comfortable that it will reach the correct personnel. Not having any prior experience with Epson customer service/support, I prefer to rely on your more positive experience.


----------



## gnolivos

gene4ht said:


> I too called and spoke with a tech support rep who identified himself as Paul. He indicated that although the number provided by @gnolivos routes through Long Beach, CA, he was actually based in Manila. After telling him the reason for my call, he indicated that this is the first he's heard of any HDR issues with the 5040/6040 and felt it was an isolated problem. From my experience with manufacturer's call center scripted procedures, this is a common first level response. At any rate, I assured him the issue is more widespread. He then requested only very basic information...PJ model number, source device, if the source connection was direct (to PJ) or indirect (via processor) and a description of the issue...that's all. With this information, he indicated a case number would be created (I have it) and the case would be escalated to second level support. I'm glad it's now documented but not completely comfortable that it will reach the correct personnel. Not having any prior experience with Epson customer service/support, I prefer to rely on your more positive experience.




They will soon know it's widespread. And for the record I called about this HDR issue 3 months back and they took screenshots from me through email. They sure KNOW.


----------



## dholmes54

Does anyone like the 5040-6040.I just got the 6040 havnt hooked it up yet,seems like I bought the wrong projector after reading all the bad opions here.


----------



## aaranddeeman

dholmes54 said:


> Does anyone like the 5040-6040.I just got the 6040 havnt hooked it up yet,seems like I bought the wrong projector after reading all the bad opions here.


I like my 6040.
Yes, there is this HDR issue bing discussed. But show me a projector in the market for this price point where HDR is working 100%.
Having said that, let's give Epson a chance. They may already be working on it.


----------



## rupedogg24

dholmes54 said:


> Does anyone like the 5040-6040.I just got the 6040 havnt hooked it up yet,seems like I bought the wrong projector after reading all the bad opions here.


I absolutely love my 5040. I'm not worried about the HDR issues, as I have it turned off at the source. If they ever fogure it out and get it working properly I will turn it back on. This thing throws a beautiful picture. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## dev23007

*5040 UHD vs 1080p upscaled*

One big question for the community. Its of course hard to tell from pictures on the 5040 UB, but is the picture difference from a 1080p bluray pixel shifted vs a UHD 4k that great? The reason I ask is right now I would need a UHD player(xbox one S-$300 and of course purchasing new movies vs just watching my current blurays?

also how 

Does the 5040 UB output 4k shifting at 60Hz? HTPC games or/and movies?

Thanks to anyone who answers trying to find this all day on google!


----------



## c.kingsley

aaranddeeman said:


> I like my 6040.
> Yes, there is this HDR issue bing discussed. But show me a projector in the market for this price point where HDR is working 100%.
> Having said that, let's give Epson a chance. They may already be working on it.


JVC made substantial changes to HDR on the RS400 after release. You have to think that was based on user reports. The practice of releasing a minimum viable product and then iterating on it after release is becoming much more common. I'm not sure I agree 100% with that philosophy, just stating the facts. I'm sure you all have had that feeling with various products that you paid money for a finished product only to find out that you were a beta tester instead. That's just the direction software industry has gone, sadly.


----------



## sddp

gene4ht said:


> I too called and spoke with a tech support rep who identified himself as Paul. He indicated that although the number provided by @*gnolivos* routes through Long Beach, CA, he was actually based in Manila. After telling him the reason for my call, he indicated that this is the first he's heard of any HDR issues with the 5040/6040 and felt it was an isolated problem. From my experience with manufacturer's call center scripted procedures, this is a common first level response. At any rate, I assured him the issue is more widespread. He then requested only very basic information...PJ model number, source device, if the source connection was direct (to PJ) or indirect (via processor) and a description of the issue...that's all. With this information, he indicated a case number would be created (I have it) and the case would be escalated to second level support. I'm glad it's now documented but not completely comfortable that it will reach the correct personnel. Not having any prior experience with Epson customer service/support, I prefer to rely on your more positive experience.




FYI, if you call and insist on a higher tier and they will transfer you BACK to Long Beach (southern Cali) and no more language barrier and they know their stuff without having to read it off a script. 
The transferring offshore is great for basic technical issues. I've been using Epson products for almost 15 years and don't mind the overseas tech support. They genuinely try to help and it's always been free on all of my products even a decade after the warranty has expired. But this HDR business is gotten out of hand.
About 3 months ago when the thread "Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread" it only had around 20K views. By the end of this month/year it'll probably hit quarter of a million. For the ones that write about their issues there's easily 100 more who don't.


----------



## dev23007

dev23007 said:


> One big question for the community. Its of course hard to tell from pictures on the 5040 UB, but is the picture difference from a 1080p bluray pixel shifted vs a UHD 4k that great? The reason I ask is right now I would need a UHD player(xbox one S-$300 and of course purchasing new movies vs just watching my current blurays?
> 
> also how
> 
> Does the 5040 UB output 4k shifting at 60Hz? HTPC games or/and movies?
> 
> Thanks to anyone who answers trying to find this all day on google!


Just thought of something else, I have a ton of .mkv bluray files on my PC. Ive always used kmplayer to watch them, will this upscale with pixel shift detecting the content correctly via gtx 1070 hdmi 18.0 gbps cable to my Epson 5040UB?


----------



## gene4ht

Oledurt said:


> Well this is disappointing to hear as I ordered the HDFury linker I thought it would work.
> 
> I guess it now comes down to either I just deal with the darker images or I get a different projector.


It's not quite that black and white (no pun intended) for me. I actually like the image with HDR off in the Philips player. From my perspective, the 5040 is a significant improvement in sharpness, color, blacks, and contrast over my current 8 year old Panny 3000. HDR is a feature I was looking forward to. But since I never had it, I don't miss it. And hopefully, Epson will deliver a solution. And as @WynsWrld98 eluded to, this is likely a common issue with other PJ's.


----------



## gene4ht

dholmes54 said:


> Does anyone like the 5040-6040.I just got the 6040 havnt hooked it up yet,seems like I bought the wrong projector after reading all the bad opions here.


Do NOT misinterpret the current HDR discussion! IMO, the 5040/6040 are excellent PJ's! We're just attempting to find a solution for one of its features, namely HDR, that doesn't perform to expectations. This appears to be an issue that all PJ's at moment and at this price point and even significantly higher have. Unbox your 6040, feel good about your choice/purchase, and enjoy!


----------



## gene4ht

c.kingsley said:


> JVC made substantial changes to HDR on the RS400 after release. You have to think that was based on user reports. The practice of releasing a minimum viable product and then iterating on it after release is becoming much more common. I'm not sure I agree 100% with that philosophy, just stating the facts. I'm sure you all have had that feeling with various products that you paid money for a finished product only to find out that you were a beta tester instead. *That's just the direction software industry has gone, sadly*.


Totally agree..and not just software!

What! Another auto recall?


----------



## dev23007

dev23007 said:


> Just thought of something else, I have a ton of .mkv bluray files on my PC. Ive always used kmplayer to watch them, will this upscale with pixel shift detecting the content correctly via gtx 1070 hdmi 18.0 gbps cable to my Epson 5040UB?


Please someone help who has this so I can save money and not buy a 4kplayer if its not going to be better than 108p pixels shifted?


----------



## dev23007

dev23007 said:


> One big question for the community. Its of course hard to tell from pictures on the 5040 UB, but is the picture difference from a 1080p bluray pixel shifted vs a UHD 4k that great? The reason I ask is right now I would need a UHD player(xbox one S-$300 and of course purchasing new movies vs just watching my current blurays?
> 
> also how
> 
> Does the 5040 UB output 4k shifting at 60Hz? HTPC games or/and movies?
> 
> Thanks to anyone who answers trying to find this all day on google!


THis was the question I needed answered/.


----------



## gnolivos

The 5040/6040 allows 4K eshift on ANY source. Done.


----------



## gene4ht

rupedogg24 said:


> I absolutely love my 5040. I'm not worried about the HDR issues, as I have it turned off at the source. If they ever fogure it out and get it working properly I will turn it back on. This thing throws a beautiful picture.


I completely agree! But since I feel responsible for starting this snowball, I'm offering my apologies for setting things off in such a negative direction. For the record, IMO, the majority of this PJ's features, performance, and above all image are definitely positive. I absolutely do NOT regret my purchase decision and have no desire to look elsewhere!


----------



## aaranddeeman

While we are at it, some reading from Projector central
Not that there is any new information, but for those who are looking for some details at one place.


----------



## Kelvin1000

WynsWrld98 said:


> I've seen people post on one of the Epson or JVC forums of people having both an Epson 5040/6040 and a JVC (e.g., RS400), I'd be curious if they see an offending UHD 4K HDR title/scene on one projector and play it back on the other if it comes down to certain titles are just mastered too dark in HDR for projectors in general re: how many lumens the current models can pump out. I would think some titles/scenes would look OK in HDR on these projectors and some not but that is just a guess. In order to get anywhere near the HDR experience flat screens deliver I would think the answer is projectors will have to really be able to increase lumens a lot.



I have had them both side by side for several weeks and I can tell you hat the JVC is no better with HDR. The Epson actually has the upper hand since it is brighter but then again, the JVC is able to display HDR for the streaming services which typically require 18gb signals.

In my experience, HDR is not well suited for projectors due to the high lumens required to properly display the signal.

The Epson is one of the best HDR-capable projectors currently available but it is still not good enough for my taste and setup.

However, when it comes to 4K SDR, this projector is a true gem and one hell of a bargain.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs everyone,I havint recovered enough to even lift a 25lb projector,got help coming Thursday,I just won't use HDR since I'm only going to up convert 1080p to 2160. Is everyone sure its not ultra blu-rays causing problems,remember how much trouble blu-rays were a few yrs ago.


----------



## mali9171

*Aligning the Image properly on 158" 2.35:1 CURVED Silver Ticket Screen*

I just bought an Epson 5040ub and a Silver Ticket 158" Curved 2.35:1 screen (white material). Does anyone know if there is a way for me to calibrate the image to fit the curved screen properly. Right now there is a slight bend/curve sort of U-shaped both top and bottom of the image (more noticeable at the bottom). If the projector settings cannot fix this, what is the cheapest way to fix this?

Also, I am getting really annoyed by too much brightness in outside movie scenes....too much backlight/overexposure/contrast (dunno how else to explain it). I turn the brightness down, and the faces become too dark. Have tried different modes under Dynamic range including Auto and SDR. Is SDR same as turning HDR off? If not, how else do you turn HDR off as I am no using any HDR at this time.


----------



## gene4ht

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs everyone,I havint recovered enough to even lift a 25lb projector,got help coming Thursday,I just won't use HDR since I'm only going to up convert 1080p to 2160. Is everyone sure its not ultra blu-rays causing problems,remember how much trouble blu-rays were a few yrs ago.


You should at least explore/experiment with HDR...just to get to know the PJ and establish a baseline. The UHD blu-rays, due to varying mastering techniques/standards, probably contribute to the issues to a minor degree. But as everyone has mentioned, the crux of the issues are related to current projector brightness capabilities...or more precisely, the lack thereof....or as demanded in The Fifth Element opening scene..."More Light Aziz!!!"


----------



## gene4ht

aaranddeeman said:


> While we are at it, some reading from Projector central
> Not that there is any new information, but for those who are looking for some details at one place.


Excellent read and reference material! The HDR comment in the opening paragraph really says it all...thanks!

"However, at the moment HDR is very much bleeding edge."

Add to this fact that most folks on this forum are early adopters and what do we have?


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> i have been trying to deal with this as well. I have spent a lot of time working adjusting brightness and contrast, and to be honest HDR on this projector in its current form sucks.
> 
> In my opinion it ruins the picture, and it looks worse than 1080p. Last night I made some changes that have drastically improved the picture.
> 
> Try this and watch a UHD blu ray let me know how it works.
> 
> I have the samsung k8500 uhd player. I forced the color to RGB. If you have a different player turn off hdr or force the color out of Y'CbCr.
> 
> Next in the projector settings force SDR. Finally, set the colorspace to BT2020.
> 
> What this does is remove the HDR, but keeps the bt2020 wide colorspace.
> 
> You can switch back and forth from rec709 to bt2020 color if you want to see the improvement.
> 
> I have it set up this way, and now the picture is stunning. Epson needs to fix HDR on this projector, because the way it is implemented actually ruins the picture.
> 
> I also have the HD Fury linker arriving tomorrow, and I will test stripping HDR with that and see if it is different than the above mentioned method.
> 
> bottom line. Remove HDR if you want the picture to look good with UHD.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



This does not work this way. See Waikis' post below if you haven't already. He's right on the mark. :up:



Everdog said:


> I have the Costco version of the Samsung player and will give this a try. Where do I change the to the bt2020 wide colorspace? Is that easy to find? I don't remember seeing it off the top of my head.


 
Don't bother, the Samsung can't do it on its own. 



WynsWrld98 said:


> I've seen people post on one of the Epson or JVC forums of people having both an Epson 5040/6040 and a JVC (e.g., RS400), I'd be curious if they see an offending UHD 4K HDR title/scene on one projector and play it back on the other if it comes down to certain titles are just mastered too dark in HDR for projectors in general re: how many lumens the current models can pump out. I would think some titles/scenes would look OK in HDR on these projectors and some not but that is just a guess. In order to get anywhere near the HDR experience flat screens deliver I would think the answer is projectors will have to really be able to increase lumens a lot.


 
The new Sonys with FW 2.301 can do it quite well with some settings tweaks, starting with the HDR Contrast adjustment. 



Oledurt said:


> in the projector settings signal tab advanced colorspace
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Moot point. 



Waikis said:


> I've been playing around with HDR and linker as well, some comments (correct me if i'm wrong):
> 
> 
> 
> When you do this, the HDR isn't actually stripped, rather you are telling the projector to apply SDR processing, ie. apply the standard 2.2 gamma curve rather than ST2084. This results in a washed out look in my experience.
> 
> 
> 
> The signal sent from UHD is still bt2020, when you manually select the color space in the projector, it applies the rec 709 processing to the bt2020 signal which might undersaturate the colour. (not sure about this point, others can chime in)
> 
> A more accurate way to test the differences would be to ensure that the signal is natively rec 709 and bt2020.
> 
> I bought the Linker because a lot of people said that it can strip the HDR while retaining WCG. I find this statement to be inaccurate.
> 
> The linker is just a scaler / on-the-fly EDID editor which can tell your source whether your unit is capable of WCG+HDR or just HDR. It doesn't actually remap the colour space nor process HDR image into SDR, this will be left to your source device.
> 
> For my PS4 pro, EDID#10 (WCG only with HDR disabled) means that my projector is flagged as not having HDR capability, and thus the HDR function is disabled within PS4 pro itself. The only way to "strip" HDR, is to use the normal EDID and windows GUI to remove the HDR metadata from the signal. But this merely tells the epson to use the SDR processing instead of HDR, the signal itself is HDR. Essentially, this is the same result as not having the linker altogether and just manually select SDR. Either way (with Linker or not) you will get a washed out image.
> I don't see any way to actually separate WCG and HDR with ps4 pro with the WCG image properly remapped to the standard gamma curve.
> 
> Now, there might be UHD players out there that can let you independently turn off HDR or WCG and process the image accordingly. If you have that kind of player, using EDID#10 will let you properly strip HDR out of the signal and process it correctly. This is how the JVC users have been doing it as far as I know.
> 
> Others more knowledgeable please correct me, I'm still figuring out these things too.



You're correct for the most part HDFury says that it does strip HDR while maintaining bt2020. Although I don't have a PS4 to test mine with, I have tried it on Panasonic, Philips and XB1S UHD bluray players and it gave me a nice SDR 4K bt2020 image. 



aaranddeeman said:


> IMHO you are doing redundant things.
> 
> May be following will work exactly the same way
> 
> 
> 
> Option 1:
> 
> - HDR off in the player
> 
> - Simply change color space to BT202 in Epson
> 
> 
> 
> Option 2:
> 
> - Leave HDR on in the player
> 
> - Set Dynamic Range to SDR and color space to BT2020 in Epson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theoretically Option2 should be better, assuming WCG reaches the PJ and is still maintained by the forced settings on it. But I may be wrong.



Theoretically none of them do as you're saying because it doesn't stop the HDR and/or WCG signals from being sent from the source so switching them in the menu just stretches bt709 and/or SDR to the wider standards, or vice versa. 



aaranddeeman said:


> This would be really interesting and everyone is waiting for the results.
> 
> If it works better HDFury will be flooded with (pre)orders from Epson owners..



It does work and there's tons of happy customers all over AVS. 



gene4ht said:


> Do NOT misinterpret the current HDR discussion! IMO, the 5040/6040 are excellent PJ's! We're just attempting to find a solution for one of its features, namely HDR, that doesn't perform to expectations. This appears to be an issue that all PJ's at moment and at this price point and even significantly higher have. Unbox your 6040, feel good about your choice/purchase, and enjoy!



Not all. I am VERY happy with HDR on my VPL-VW365ES compared to what I was getting on my prior VW350ES and 5040UBe......and the 5040 has more lumens available to it than the Sonys, so as I said all the Epsons should need is a tweak to FW to allow HDR Ckntrast adjustments and it may turn out to be better than the Sonys, at least as far as HDR is concerned. Not so much on pure image detail (native 4K) and colors though.


----------



## Waikis

Dave Harper said:


> You're correct for the most part HDFury says that it does strip HDR while maintaining bt2020. Although I don't have a PS4 to test mine with, I have tried it on Panasonic, Philips and XB1S UHD bluray players and it gave me a nice SDR bt 2020


How does it work with xb1s? Do you just use edid#10 and the xbox will automatically send wcg signal with sdr gamma?


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> This does not work this way. See Waikis' post below if you haven't already. He's right on the mark. :up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't bother, the Samsung can't do it on its own.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new Sonys with FW 2.301 can do it quite well with some settings tweaks, starting with the HDR Contrast adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moot point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're correct for the most part HDFury says that it does strip HDR while maintaining bt2020. Although I don't have a PS4 to test mine with, I have tried it on Panasonic, Philips and XB1S UHD bluray players and it gave me a nice SDR 4K bt2020 image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theoretically none of them do as you're saying because it doesn't stop the HDR and/or WCG signals from being sent from the source so switching them in the menu just stretches bt709 and/or SDR to the wider standards, or vice versa.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It does work and there's tons of happy customers all over AVS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all. I am VERY happy with HDR on my VPL-VW365ES compared to what I was getting on my prior VW350ES and 5040UBe......and the 5040 has more lumens available to it than the Sonys, so as I said all the Epsons should need is a tweak to FW to allow HDR Ckntrast adjustments and it may turn out to be better than the Sonys, at least as far as HDR is concerned. Not so much on pure image detail (native 4K) and colors though.




Waiting on firmware then Dave. Hopefully Epson will come through for us.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nickoakdl

Am I the only one content with HDR?

I set mine to Bright Cinema, gamma +2, HDR 1 or 2, ECO consumption . 

I've had no problems. I have the Da-Lite HP Screen to add some brightness, but keep in mind I run on ECO and not bright like a lot of people. 

I've watch "The Shallows" "Soul Survivor" "Sausage Party" and a few others and have been happy every time.

With that said...I'm extremely disappointed with the lack of compatibility. You should be able to hook up any 4k HDR capable device and get a proper image, e.g. Netflix, Amazon Prime, PS4 Pro, Roku, etc.....


----------



## terminal33

Oledurt said:


> i have been trying to deal with this as well. I have spent a lot of time working adjusting brightness and contrast, and to be honest HDR on this projector in its current form sucks.
> 
> In my opinion it ruins the picture, and it looks worse than 1080p. Last night I made some changes that have drastically improved the picture.
> 
> Try this and watch a UHD blu ray let me know how it works.
> 
> I have the samsung k8500 uhd player. I forced the color to RGB. If you have a different player turn off hdr or force the color out of Y'CbCr.
> 
> Next in the projector settings force SDR. Finally, set the colorspace to BT2020.
> 
> What this does is remove the HDR, but keeps the bt2020 wide colorspace.
> 
> You can switch back and forth from rec709 to bt2020 color if you want to see the improvement.
> 
> I have it set up this way, and now the picture is stunning. Epson needs to fix HDR on this projector, because the way it is implemented actually ruins the picture.
> 
> I also have the HD Fury linker arriving tomorrow, and I will test stripping HDR with that and see if it is different than the above mentioned method.
> 
> bottom line. Remove HDR if you want the picture to look good with UHD.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Well I tried this tonight and I was actually quite happy with the results. After turning off the HDR in my Philips player, I watched some scenes from The Revenant and Batman vs. Superman, and it was actually impressive. I had the Epson set to Eco - Digital Cinema - Gamma 0, and it was noticeable brighter than having HDR 1 engaged. I also toggled between Rec709 and BT2020 and I preferred BT2020 (although there were some scenes where Rec709 looked more natural). Anyway, I look forward to your findings with the Fury.


----------



## Waikis

nickoakdl said:


> Am I the only one content with HDR?
> 
> I set mine to Bright Cinema, gamma +2, HDR 1 or 2, ECO consumption .
> 
> I've had no problems. I have the Da-Lite HP Screen to add some brightness, but keep in mind I run on ECO and not bright like a lot of people.
> 
> I've watch "The Shallows" "Soul Survivor" "Sausage Party" and a few others and have been happy every time.
> 
> With that said...I'm extremely disappointed with the lack of compatibility. You should be able to hook up any 4k HDR capable device and get a proper image, e.g. Netflix, Amazon Prime, PS4 Pro, Roku, etc.....


I don't have a brightness problem either when using HDR with bright cinema. However, bright cinema doesn't use the dci p3 filter, so you can't see the expanded color space.


----------



## Smarty-pants

If you guys want to try something, I think you may be surprised at this.
Now keep in mind this is just something I tried, and there is no official calibration done here.
It's also a very specific set of settings for a specific UHD title, so I do not know how it will look with other movies.
I honestly have had no extra time to find any HDR/UHD patterns to try and do any real calibrations for UHD on my system yet,
so just think of this as an experiment. Be sure to let me know if you love or hate it.
I'm starting to think HDR may be a real option on this projector. 

Epson UHD Extreme Settings for HDR-2

STAR TREK: BEYOND UHD BD
This title defaults the PJ to the HDR-2 Dynamic Range setting.
This may or may not work for other UHD titles that default to a different or same Dynamic Range setting.
Remember to keep your Dynamic Range, Color Space, and similar settings at default/AUTO.
You want to make sure the projector is receiving 4k resolution, HDR, and WCG.

COLOR MODE: BRIGHT CINEMA
BRIGHTNESS: 48
CONTRAST: 100
COLOR: 85
TINT: 50
SHARPNESS: 0
COLOR TEMP: 5/3
IMAGE ENHANCEMENT: PRESET 2
GAMMA: 2
SUPER WHITE: OFF
LENS IRIS: 0
POWER CONSUMPTION: ECO
(feel free to experiment with higher power and different lens iris settings)


----------



## achanonier

Hi

The contrast setting is quite exteme here.
Anything above 65 I found was leading to burning bright areas...


----------



## gnolivos

mali9171 said:


> I just bought an Epson 5040ub and a Silver Ticket 158" Curved 2.35:1 screen (white material). Does anyone know if there is a way for me to calibrate the image to fit the curved screen properly. Right now there is a slight bend/curve sort of U-shaped both top and bottom of the image (more noticeable at the bottom). If the projector settings cannot fix this, what is the cheapest way to fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I am getting really annoyed by too much brightness in outside movie scenes....too much backlight/overexposure/contrast (dunno how else to explain it). I turn the brightness down, and the faces become too dark. Have tried different modes under Dynamic range including Auto and SDR. Is SDR same as turning HDR off? If not, how else do you turn HDR off as I am no using any HDR at this time.




Brightness setting is actually just "black level". It's a misnomer. If your image is too bright you need to instead tweak the lamp to eco. Then additionally set the iris to a lower setting like -8 or -15. Still too bright? Then you'd need an optical filter. Or a screen with low gain such as 0.8. What screen do you have?

Lastly it may be that your contrast level on the pj is too high. But I doubt it. That setting is also a misnomer by the way. It is basically "white level". Just take a Disney Blu-ray Disc and follow their simple WOW calibration to set brightness and contrast properly.


----------



## aaranddeeman

achanonier said:


> Hi
> 
> The contrast setting is quite exteme here.
> Anything above 65 I found was leading to burning bright areas...


Yeah. I have to agree to that.
But we can give it a shot and tweak as needed.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Smarty-pants said:


> If you guys want to try something, I think you may be surprised at this.
> Now keep in mind this is just something I tried, and there is no official calibration done here.
> It's also a very specific set of settings for a specific UHD title, so I do not know how it will look with other movies.
> I honestly have had no extra time to find any HDR/UHD patterns to try and do any real calibrations for UHD on my system yet,
> so just think of this as an experiment. Be sure to let me know if you love or hate it.
> I'm starting to think HDR may be a real option on this projector.
> 
> Epson UHD Extreme Settings for HDR-2
> 
> STAR TREK: BEYOND UHD BD
> This title defaults the PJ to the HDR-2 Dynamic Range setting.
> This may or may not work for other UHD titles that default to a different or same Dynamic Range setting.
> Remember to keep your Dynamic Range, Color Space, and similar settings at default/AUTO.
> You want to make sure the projector is receiving 4k resolution, HDR, and WCG.
> 
> COLOR MODE: BRIGHT CINEMA
> BRIGHTNESS: 48
> CONTRAST: 100
> COLOR: 85
> TINT: 50
> SHARPNESS: 0
> COLOR TEMP: 5/3
> IMAGE ENHANCEMENT: PRESET 2
> GAMMA: 2
> SUPER WHITE: OFF
> LENS IRIS: 0
> POWER CONSUMPTION: ECO
> (feel free to experiment with higher power and different lens iris settings)


It would be worth a shot and starting point for further tweak. Thanks.
It's sad that we can not adjust the basic picture modes using disks like S&M (as there are none available with HDR flag). We have to rely on trial and error..


----------



## Eric_Connelly

My old TV is sold and I am ordering a 5040UBE today.

I'm going to run electrical today and am confused about placement.

We are going to have a 120" screen. In the picture below the higher ceiling is 100". The 2x4 wall you see if going to be a 1/2 wall and bench style bar when completed. That sits right behind the section and it is 20' 5" to the back of the couch.

Given that space where is the best place to put it for 120"?

We will sit roughly 19' from the screen and I have considered a 135" screen in the future, so do I lose anything by placing it where I could do either or? 

We are not finished with the basement yet so the window to the left will get new treatments and black out curtains, still some paint work to do but it does have near white carpet which even when using our current TV is pretty reflective but it is what it is.

Thanks


----------



## Smarty-pants

achanonier said:


> Hi
> 
> The contrast setting is quite exteme here.
> Anything above 65 I found was leading to burning bright areas...


Do you have a specific test pattern you are using to set contrast for HDR?
Otherwise it's just guessing, but I didn't see any real abnormalities in Star Trek HDR with contrast maxed out.
Many HDR movies actually have some colors way too hot and look out of place even with a proper calibration.
While it can still look good with a lower contrast setting, I pretty much was looking through the movie for a specific
reason to lower it and couldn't find any. Even dark scenes with flashes of light didn't yield any screen blooming
or blown out whites you normally see with contrast set too high. At least not on my setup.

1.1 gain white screen at 12' viewing distance with 106" wide screen Cinemascope screen (zoomed out).

Again though I am not recommending the settings for reference, but just something fun to try.


----------



## Oledurt

Waikis said:


> I don't have a brightness problem either when using HDR with bright cinema. However, bright cinema doesn't use the dci p3 filter, so you can't see the expanded color space.




How do you get the expanded color space? What setting?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Dave Harper said:


> all the Epsons should need is a tweak to FW to allow HDR Ckntrast adjustments





Oledurt said:


> Waiting on firmware then Dave. Hopefully Epson will come through for us.


+1 In the meantime, I will turn off HDR in the source/player and enjoy the outstanding SDR image!


----------



## Oledurt

If you guys want to see what the Projector can do. watch The secret life of Pets UHD blu ray. Turn on HDR the movie is very bright. OMG it is amazing almost 3D like it really shows what this Projector can do. That being said our HDR issues I think in part are caused by poorly transferred or mastered UHD discs. Because there is a lot of variation between discs. Some seem to be just fine with HDR on some are too dark. I am sure we will see better and better discs as we go forward.

So what modes on the projector support the DCI P3 Colorspace? I notice in the manual it says Digital Cinema? But I read somewhere Bright Cinema and HDR 1 also support it. Any clarity on that?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## achanonier

Smarty-pants said:


> Do you have a specific test pattern you are using to set contrast for HDR?
> Otherwise it's just guessing, but I didn't see any real abnormalities in Star Trek HDR with contrast maxed out.
> Many HDR movies actually have some colors way too hot and look out of place even with a proper calibration.
> While it can still look good with a lower contrast setting, I pretty much was looking through the movie for a specific
> reason to lower it and couldn't find any. Even dark scenes with flashes of light didn't yield any screen blooming
> or blown out whites you normally see with contrast set too high. At least not on my setup.
> 
> 1.1 gain white screen at 12' viewing distance with 106" wide screen Cinemascope screen (zoomed out).
> 
> Again though I am not recommending the settings for reference, but just something fun to try.


No I don't have any patterns :
But when I'v done my tests it was with the UHD BR The Revenant and I noticed that on some specific scenes having the contrast over 65 was burning bright areas...

Hey I just got an idea while typing : with the PS4Pro and Uncharted 4 when in HDR mode you can adjust global brightness with a slider, to help there is a black to white test pattern here... I don't know if that relevant though...


----------



## nickoakdl

joel dickman said:


> Please tell us more. The juicy details... we need all the help we can get with HDR.
> 
> 1) Is your screen the older 2.8 gain, or the 2.4? How large is it diagonally? 16:9 or 'scope?
> 2) Do you watch in a fully darkened room? Black walls / ceiling / floor? Or a more normal viewing environment?
> 3) Are you using a 4K UHD Blu Ray disc player? If so, which one? What settings?
> 
> Anything else you can think of will be appreciated. You might be the only contented Epson HDR user, except for the compatibility problems you mention.
> 
> Happy Viewing,
> Joel Dickman


1. 2.4 133" 16:9
2. Black ceiling, grey walls, cream carpet
3. Philips UHD Player

As far as settings, I'll look at those tonight, but I think most everything on the UHD player is set to AUTO.

Another gripe I have, which I think applies to most displays if I'm not mistaken, is that with HDR there is no "set it and forget it." I mentioned the "Bright Cinema" setting, but I might actually use the "Digital Cinema" setting (writing this from my shoddy memory at the moment). Some things HDR 1 looked better, some things HDR 2 worked. 

Either way, the most important thing I've found when viewing HDR content on this projector is turning the GAMMA to +2. Which is probably counter-intuitive, but calibrating for HDR is completely different than SDR. With the GAMMA set to 0, I was unhappy with the image.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Oledurt said:


> If you guys want to see what the Projector can do. watch The secret life of Pets UHD blu ray. Turn on HDR the movie is very bright. OMG it is amazing almost 3D like it really shows what this Projector can do. That being said our HDR issues I think in part are caused by poorly transferred or mastered UHD discs. Because there is a lot of variation between discs. Some seem to be just fine with HDR on some are too dark. I am sure we will see better and better discs as we go forward.
> 
> So what modes on the projector support the DCI P3 Colorspace? I notice in the manual it says Digital Cinema? But I read somewhere Bright Cinema and HDR 1 also support it. Any clarity on that?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


From what it says on Epson's spec/support page, the filter is there for _Cinema_ and _Digital Cinema_.


----------



## Oledurt

Smarty-pants said:


> From what it says on Epson's spec/support page, the filter is there for _Cinema_ and _Digital Cinema_.




Does HDR mode matter?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Smarty-pants

achanonier said:


> No I don't have any patterns :
> But when I'v done my tests it was with the UHD BR The Revenant and I noticed that on some specific scenes having the contrast over 65 was burning bright areas...
> 
> Hey I just got an idea while typing : with the PS4Pro and Uncharted 4 when in HDR mode you can adjust global brightness with a slider, to help there is a black to white test pattern here... I don't know if that relevant though...


I am not really a gamer and the minute experience I have with HDR is with optical disc and streaming of movies/tv.
I don't know if that pattern in PS4P would help, but I would wager a guess that it is somewhat different between games and movies.
Probably less critical with games.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Oledurt said:


> Does HDR mode matter?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That I could not tell you and I wonder the same thing.
All I know is with the UHD discs I have, I think they all default to HDR-2 when on AUTO in the 5040.
The pj actually has 4 different HDR settings, and the manual gives no info at all about what to do with those settings,
or how to calibrate them, etc...
The next time someone here contacts Epson support and wants to ask about it,
I'd be curious what they say the 4 different settings are even for.
My best guess is that the pj probably reads the metadata from the disc which tells the pj the max/min nits/luminance
that the disc is mastered at and is supposed to apply the proper HDR mode automatically.
The problem is we have no way to properly calibrate HDR, so no matter what mode is used,
if the pj is calibrated with software meant for 1080p, the pic is too dark no matter what.
Some are content with using the default Bright Cinema settings and HDR-1, but I still think that's not close to correct.


----------



## Dave Harper

Waikis said:


> How does it work with xb1s? Do you just use edid#10 and the xbox will automatically send wcg signal with sdr gamma?



Yes if I recall it was edid 10 and I remember deleting the HDR metadata as mentioned. I don't have the 5040 anymore so can't test. 



terminal33 said:


> Well I tried this tonight and I was actually quite happy with the results. After turning off the HDR in my Philips player, I watched some scenes from The Revenant and Batman vs. Superman, and it was actually impressive. I had the Epson set to Eco - Digital Cinema - Gamma 0, and it was noticeable brighter than having HDR 1 engaged. I also toggled between Rec709 and BT2020 and I preferred BT2020 (although there were some scenes where Rec709 looked more natural). Anyway, I look forward to your findings with the Fury.



You can't just toggle between color gamut modes on the projector like that! That doesn't change what the source is sending so you're just stretching or compressing the color info!!! 



Smarty-pants said:


> If you guys want to try something, I think you may be surprised at this.
> 
> Now keep in mind this is just something I tried, and there is no official calibration done here.
> 
> It's also a very specific set of settings for a specific UHD title, so I do not know how it will look with other movies.
> 
> I honestly have had no extra time to find any HDR/UHD patterns to try and do any real calibrations for UHD on my system yet,
> 
> so just think of this as an experiment. Be sure to let me know if you love or hate it.
> 
> I'm starting to think HDR may be a real option on this projector.
> 
> 
> 
> Epson UHD Extreme Settings for HDR-2
> 
> 
> 
> STAR TREK: BEYOND UHD BD
> 
> This title defaults the PJ to the HDR-2 Dynamic Range setting.
> 
> This may or may not work for other UHD titles that default to a different or same Dynamic Range setting.
> 
> Remember to keep your Dynamic Range, Color Space, and similar settings at default/AUTO.
> 
> You want to make sure the projector is receiving 4k resolution, HDR, and WCG.
> 
> 
> 
> COLOR MODE: BRIGHT CINEMA
> 
> BRIGHTNESS: 48
> 
> CONTRAST: 100
> 
> COLOR: 85
> 
> TINT: 50
> 
> SHARPNESS: 0
> 
> COLOR TEMP: 5/3
> 
> IMAGE ENHANCEMENT: PRESET 2
> 
> GAMMA: 2
> 
> SUPER WHITE: OFF
> 
> LENS IRIS: 0
> 
> POWER CONSUMPTION: ECO
> 
> (feel free to experiment with higher power and different lens iris settings)


 
Color looks way high too. Like you're trying to compensate for the wrong gamut or something. 





gene4ht said:


> +1 In the meantime, I will turn off HDR in the source/player and enjoy the outstanding SDR image!



That's ok but you have to also understand you're also losing WCG bt2020.


----------



## Oledurt

Smarty-pants said:


> That I could not tell you and I wonder the same thing.
> 
> All I know is with the UHD discs I have, I think they all default to HDR-2 when on AUTO in the 5040.
> 
> The pj actually has 4 different HDR settings, and the manual gives no info at all about what to do with those settings,
> 
> or how to calibrate them, etc...
> 
> The next time someone here contacts Epson support and wants to ask about it,
> 
> I'd be curious what they say the 4 different settings are even for.
> 
> My best guess is that the pj probably reads the metadata from the disc which tells the pj the max/min nits/luminance
> 
> that the disc is mastered at and is supposed to apply the proper HDR mode automatically.
> 
> The problem is we have no way to properly calibrate HDR, so no matter what mode is used,
> 
> if the pj is calibrated with software meant for 1080p, the pic is too dark no matter what.
> 
> Some are content with using the default Bright Cinema settings and HDR-1, but I still think that's not close to correct.




That makes perfect sense thank you.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Smarty-pants

Dave Harper said:


> Color looks way high too. Like you're trying to compensate for the wrong gamut or something.


Like I said, not meant to be reference, but the color doesn't look too high when I actually watch it.
So far lots of criticism but no one saying they tried it and it looked bad.  
Trust me, I am very picky about my picture settings, so when I say it looks decent that isn't just saying it's bright.
I need to find the time to research more on how to calibrate HDR more properly though so I can get some real reference settings.


----------



## gene4ht

Dave Harper said:


> That's ok but you have to also understand you're also losing WCG bt2020.


Thanks...understand. I don't have any desire to invest in additional hardware (Fury)...will be content with Rec 709 and either awaiting a FW solution or the next generation PJ.


----------



## Dave Harper

Smarty-pants said:


> Like I said, not meant to be reference, but the color doesn't look too high when I actually watch it.
> 
> 
> So far lots of criticism but no one saying they tried it and it looked bad.
> 
> Trust me, I am very picky about my picture settings, so when I say it looks decent that isn't just saying it's bright.
> 
> I need to find the time to research more on how to calibrate HDR more properly though so I can get some real reference settings.



After looking at your settings again, I think the reason it looks ok to you and not too high is because you're cranking up the color to a cartoonish state and then when you pump up the gamma to +2, the added lumen brightness in the middle ranges, that would normally make the image appear washed out, kind of counter balances that. Just a theory though as I can't test it out any longer. I'm interested to hear what others think with those settings too. 

Don't take this as a knock or that I don't agree with what you're saying, because I remember doing some pretty crazy adjustments to get a good HDR image on my 5040 too. Just look back at some old posts of mine!


----------



## WynsWrld98

I think a couple of people asked this question recently and I didn't see a response so here it is again, how big of a difference is there in picture quality of a 1080p Bluray with eShift on vs. same title 4K UHD Bluray?


----------



## gnolivos

Id say subjectively 20% better. 
I had an early post on this very topic showing some detailed close up screenshots. It was using the movie Lucy as an example.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

yeah I would give it 20-30% improvement. Watched my old Kill Bill bluray last night & was very pleased with it, having watched few UHD disks & Netflix content I didnt feel any need to double dip any of my current collection, from what I have seen so far, UHD is nice to have but not must.


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> After looking at your settings again, I think the reason it looks ok to you and not too high is because you're cranking up the color to a cartoonish state and then when you pump up the gamma to +2, the added lumen brightness in the middle ranges, that would normally make the image appear washed out, kind of counter balances that. Just a theory though as I can't test it out any longer. I'm interested to hear what others think with those settings too.
> 
> Don't take this as a knock or that I don't agree with what you're saying, because I remember doing some pretty crazy adjustments to get a good HDR image on my 5040 too. Just look back at some old posts of mine!




What does the correct HDMI video setting I have two options. Normal or expanded. Does it need to be set to expanded for UHD not really too clear.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## javanpohl

Is there already a discussion going on somewhere about how the 3D on this projector compares with a good DLP?


----------



## gnolivos

Oledurt said:


> What does the correct HDMI video setting I have two options. Normal or expanded. Does it need to be set to expanded for UHD not really too clear.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Normal. It is 16-255. Make sure your player is set NORMAL also. They must match.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Screen Innovations 120" Black Diamond arrived today. All the pieces coming in.


----------



## gnolivos

SALadder22FF said:


> Screen Innovations 120" Black Diamond arrived today. All the pieces coming in.




Wth? This monster comes assembled. Lol


----------



## gnolivos

One clarification on an earlier post of mine. I said 4K enhancement can be turned ON on any Input. 

HOWEVER, you can NOT turn it on for 3D signals. That includes blur-ays in 3D


----------



## Oledurt

Smarty-pants said:


> If you guys want to try something, I think you may be surprised at this.
> 
> Now keep in mind this is just something I tried, and there is no official calibration done here.
> 
> It's also a very specific set of settings for a specific UHD title, so I do not know how it will look with other movies.
> 
> I honestly have had no extra time to find any HDR/UHD patterns to try and do any real calibrations for UHD on my system yet,
> 
> so just think of this as an experiment. Be sure to let me know if you love or hate it.
> 
> I'm starting to think HDR may be a real option on this projector.
> 
> 
> 
> Epson UHD Extreme Settings for HDR-2
> 
> 
> 
> STAR TREK: BEYOND UHD BD
> 
> This title defaults the PJ to the HDR-2 Dynamic Range setting.
> 
> This may or may not work for other UHD titles that default to a different or same Dynamic Range setting.
> 
> Remember to keep your Dynamic Range, Color Space, and similar settings at default/AUTO.
> 
> You want to make sure the projector is receiving 4k resolution, HDR, and WCG.
> 
> 
> 
> COLOR MODE: BRIGHT CINEMA
> 
> BRIGHTNESS: 48
> 
> CONTRAST: 100
> 
> COLOR: 85
> 
> TINT: 50
> 
> SHARPNESS: 0
> 
> COLOR TEMP: 5/3
> 
> IMAGE ENHANCEMENT: PRESET 2
> 
> GAMMA: 2
> 
> SUPER WHITE: OFF
> 
> LENS IRIS: 0
> 
> POWER CONSUMPTION: ECO
> 
> (feel free to experiment with higher power and different lens iris settings)




Hey thanks for sharing. I tried these and ya looks pretty damn good. I encourage everyone to give these a try. Looked good with the Creed UHD.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Chief Ceiling Mount:

For those of you who currently have an RPA ceiling mount or are interested in this mount and don't want or care for the universal bracket, a custom SLB bracket specifically for the 5040/6040 is available. However, it cannot be found on Chief's website or in a retailer's inventory...yet. After my inquiry with Chief, I was told that it only recently became available as a special build item. The bracket has the designation SLB357 and can be ordered from Chief or retailers. If ordering from a retailer, it's very likely they (1) don't know it exists and/or (2) will tell you it is not in theirs and Chief' website database. It isn't....you'll need to instruct them they must call Chief to confirm and order. The list price is $171 but competitive retailers will quote significantly less. I placed my order today but because it's a special build, I was only given an estimated ETA of 2 weeks or less.


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> What does the correct HDMI video setting I have two options. Normal or expanded. Does it need to be set to expanded for UHD not really too clear.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





gnolivos said:


> Normal. It is 16-255. Make sure your player is set NORMAL also. They must match.


Actually, you can have it set to expanded, but as gnolivos said, make sure they're the same in the source and the projector. You will lose whiter than white though (the 236-255 data range from normal setting) since it will remap the 235 data point to 255 and push those above the threshold. I can't remember if it also crushes blacker than black though. I think I still remember seeing the BtB bar in the XB1S's Test patterns when I was setting black levels/brightness.

This isn't really a big deal as very few images go above and below those values and I think the expanded dynamic range you get by doing this really helps more than it hurts with HDR, more so than whatever you lose by clipping BtB or WtW. Just make sure to readjust your brightness and contrast settings also so they match up again to their proper settings level.

I did this extensively with my old VW350ES and it really helped. The scenes in The Revenant UHD BR really blew me away with these settings. Look back on some of my old posts in this thread for more info. I pretty much matched the settings to the 5040 I also had here at the sanme time and the results were really close to each other, with the extra detail of the true 4K Sony edging it out some (but to be expected at more than 3x the retail price!).


----------



## gnolivos

For those asking how much difference there is between 4K eShift and True 4K on this projector:

I documented it earlier here in this post below:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...0ub-6040ub-owners-thread-28.html#post46948017


.


----------



## gene4ht

Dave Harper said:


> I did this extensively with my old VW350ES and it really helped. The scenes in The Revenant UHD BR really blew me away with these settings. Look back on some of my old posts in this thread for more info. I pretty much matched the settings to the 5040 I also had here at the sanme time and the results were really close to each other, with the extra detail of the true 4K Sony edging it out some (but to be expected at more than 3x the retail price!).


Don't know if anyone has mentioned it or agrees but I for one appreciate your balanced perspective on things.


----------



## gnolivos

I know at least for DVD and Blu-Ray, the Limited 16-255 range has always been the recommended setting. I am not sure how/if this changes today with UHD to be honest.
My test has always been: If I can see Blacker Than Black (BtB) signal on calibration discs, then I know everything is fine with this setting.

Here is a good read on the topic from Audioholics:
http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration/hdmi-black-levels-xvycc-rgb



Dave Harper said:


> Actually, you can have it set to expanded, but as gnolivos said, make sure they're the same in the source and the projector. You will lose whiter than white though (the 236-255 data range from normal setting) since it will remap the 235 data point to 255 and push those above the threshold. I can't remember if it also crushes blacker than black though. I think I still remember seeing the BtB bar in the XB1S's Test patterns when I was setting black levels/brightness.
> 
> This isn't really a big deal as very few images go above and below those values and I think the expanded dynamic range you get by doing this really helps more than it hurts with HDR, more so than whatever you lose by clipping BtB or WtW. Just make sure to readjust your brightness and contrast settings also so they match up again to their proper settings level.
> 
> I did this extensively with my old VW350ES and it really helped. The scenes in The Revenant UHD BR really blew me away with these settings. Look back on some of my old posts in this thread for more info. I pretty much matched the settings to the 5040 I also had here at the sanme time and the results were really close to each other, with the extra detail of the true 4K Sony edging it out some (but to be expected at more than 3x the retail price!).


----------



## Dave Harper

gene4ht said:


> Don't know if anyone has mentioned it or agrees but I for one appreciate your balanced perspective on things.


Thanks! That's because I was told I am the chosen one, said to bring balance to the "Forum"! 



gnolivos said:


> I know at least for DVD and Blu-Ray, the Limited 16-255 range has always been the recommended setting. I am not sure how/if this changes today with UHD to be honest.
> My test has always been: If I can see Blacker Than Black (BtB) signal on calibration discs, then I know everything is fine with this setting.
> 
> Here is a good read on the topic from Audioholics:
> http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration/hdmi-black-levels-xvycc-rgb


Yes I agree it is "recommended" and also say to do that with 99% of the setups, but as stated, this really helps where projectors and HDR are concerned to get a brighter more dynamic image on screen since projectors basically don't have the lumens to do HDR justice like flat panels can.......yet.


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> Thanks! That's because I was told I am the chosen one, said to bring balance to the "Forum"!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I agree it is "recommended" and also say to do that with 99% of the setups, but as stated, this really helps where projectors and HDR are concerned to get a brighter more dynamic image on screen since projectors basically don't have the lumens to do HDR justice like flat panels can.......yet.




I found your recommended settings earlier in the thread I will plug them in and check them out too. Thank you.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

My early conclusions on HDR are on POST #825. I passed this on to Epson support back in September.


----------



## little_donkey

My projector when turned on started wit very loud fan, fans at high speed and no image. Blinking blue power light. Had to disconnect the power cable. Happened twice this week. Should I worry? Maybe update the firmware? 

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

Oledurt said:


> So what modes on the projector support the DCI P3 Colorspace? I notice in the manual it says Digital Cinema? But I read somewhere Bright Cinema and HDR 1 also support it. Any clarity on that?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


My understanding is Cinema and Digital Cinema are the only ones with the color filter engaged for WCG.


----------



## raviatuofu

Hooked up my Philips BDP7501 with Creed UHD. 
UHD is not impressive :crying:. Tried all the settings on 5040 which were mentioned here. 

In the end, turned off UHD on Philips and life is simple again.


----------



## schmidtwi

Eric_Connelly said:


> We will sit roughly 19' from the screen and I have considered a 135" screen in the future, so do I lose anything by placing it where I could do either or?


 

IMHO, 19' is way too far from a 120" or 135" screen. I sit 11' from a 130" 16x9 screen, and I would not want to view from any further back - especially with the picture from the 5040. My Dedicated HT (WIP) will have a 150" or 160" wide 2:35 screen, and front row will be 12'.




.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

schmidtwi said:


> IMHO, 19' is way too far from a 120" or 135" screen. I sit 11' from a 130" 16x9 screen, and I would not want to view from any further back - especially with the picture from the 5040. My Dedicated HT (WIP) will have a 150" or 160" wide 2:35 screen, and front row will be 12'.
> 
> .


I've laid this out on my wall and first 120" is the largest I can go. I have a header that drops down and there is a corner at 45 degree's. You may not be able to see it but on the left side of the picture I posted in the angled wall.

Not to mention now I need to move one of my speakers to the far left as it is, any bigger and I'm obscuring the screen with the speaker plus placement is not optimal.

So my space from the header drop down to the corner of the 45 degree is 115" and the screen is 109" in width. 

The other options is to move it out from the wall roughly 18" so I can get around the 45 then we're right butted up against the wall and the header on the other side.

The 79" I have now looks a bit small but laying out the frame of the 120 versus this and its a huge difference, almost 45" bigger in width.


----------



## gnolivos

Eric_Connelly said:


> I've laid this out on my wall and first 120" is the largest I can go. I have a header that drops down and there is a corner at 45 degree's. You may not be able to see it but on the left side of the picture I posted in the angled wall.
> 
> 
> 
> Not to mention now I need to move one of my speakers to the far left as it is, any bigger and I'm obscuring the screen with the speaker plus placement is not optimal.
> 
> 
> 
> So my space from the header drop down to the corner of the 45 degree is 115" and the screen is 109" in width.
> 
> 
> 
> The other options is to move it out from the wall roughly 18" so I can get around the 45 then we're right butted up against the wall and the header on the other side.
> 
> 
> 
> The 79" I have now looks a bit small but laying out the frame of the 120 versus this and its a huge difference, almost 45" bigger in width.




If you are limited by width check my sig. I went with AT screen and looove it. Gives me extra width to work with plus the screen sits closer. I can tell you with 4K enhancement the Moire is a non issue! Off topic. So now back.


----------



## schmidtwi

Eric_Connelly said:


> I've laid this out on my wall and first 120" is the largest I can go.


Understand the space constraint for the screen size, have you thought about an AT screen? Or you always have the option to move the seating closer. 






.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

gnolivos said:


> If you are limited by width check my sig. I went with AT screen and looove it. Gives me extra width to work with plus the screen sits closer. I can tell you with 4K enhancement the Moire is a non issue! Off topic. So now back.


What thread are you referring to? Did not see it in your .sig.



schmidtwi said:


> Understand the space constraint for the screen size, have you thought about an AT screen? Or you always have the option to move the seating closer.
> 
> .


No way to move it closer or a desire to. Sectional is 159" long. The room itself is 48' long and at the 20' mark we cut the carpet and installed tile for the back half. Built a wall/bar/bench seating with specific cut outs for the couch to recline and its bolted to the floor.

As per my comment above, not sure what an AT screen is a search for it brought up nothing.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave Harper said:


> Actually, you can have it set to expanded, but as gnolivos said, make sure they're the same in the source and the projector. You will lose whiter than white though (the 236-255 data range from normal setting) since it will remap the 235 data point to 255 and push those above the threshold.


When using contrast pattern from S&M disk, should we let blow the white bars after 236 (when using limited settings) or attempt to get them as many as possible?
Also on Philips BDP7501 there is no setting to change the HDMI to limited or expanded. And hence I am always keeping it Auto on the PJ.


----------



## schmidtwi

Eric_Connelly said:


> As per my comment above, not sure what an AT screen is a search for it brought up nothing.


 
AT = Acoustically Transparent. Speakers go behind the screen, so you can go big (wall-to-wall). Jamestown or SeymourAV are 2 popular AT screen providers here on AVS.


Sorry for going off topic. Back to our regularly scheduled discussion on the awesomeness of the Epson 5040... 

.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

schmidtwi said:


> AT = Acoustically Transparent. Speakers go behind the screen, so you can go big (wall-to-wall). Jamestown or SeymourAV are 2 popular AT screen providers here on AVS.
> 
> 
> Sorry for going off topic. Back to our regularly scheduled discussion on the awesomeness of the Epson 5040...
> 
> .


Audio first, video second. We spend way more time listening to music than watching a movie.

The only thing that is Acoustically Transparent is the thin air 

Still would not help, the angle of the wall and the drop of the header is what does it.

So in doing some reading on projector placement looks like I can place it anywhere between 14 and 22 feet.

Is closer better?


----------



## Dave Harper

aaranddeeman said:


> When using contrast pattern from S&M disk, should we let blow the white bars after 236 (when using limited settings) or attempt to get them as many as possible?
> Also on Philips BDP7501 there is no setting to change the HDMI to limited or expanded. And hence I am always keeping it Auto on the PJ.


I don't have that disc. I use R. Masciola's Patterns, Joe Kane's disc and DVE Bluray along with a pattern generator. Generally though, you want to try to resolve as many of those bars as you can so you have some head room, but without clipping or the whites starting to change colors like pink, etc. I would try setting a combination of your source and the display on both limited (hate that term here!) and expanded while using the brightness and contrast patterns on the discs and see which ones give you the BtB and WtW bars visible. If you get them using expanded then keep it that way, preferrably in both devices. Remember this is all recommendations for HDR to get the most dynamic range you can from your projector, it's not really for other sources that are more mature like HDTV, DVD and HD Blurays where limited 16-235 YCbCr is recommended.

Someone attached a link about this and I found the end paragraphs to be applicable and good in this situation:

http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration/hdmi-black-levels-xvycc-rgb 



> .....As long as you can see a below black signal, you are more than likely set up to get the best possible dynamic range from your display. Your final step in resolving this issue should be to set the correct black and white levels.
> 
> Again - make sure you can see below black levels in your system, and then calibrate your display to set your black and white levels. This should allow you to enjoy the full benefits of your display and get the most dynamic range out of your DVDs. _(but in this case UHD HDR BRDs - HarperVision's note)_


----------



## Ronman79

Eric_Connelly said:


> I've laid this out on my wall and first 120" is the largest I can go. I have a header that drops down and there is a corner at 45 degree's. You may not be able to see it but on the left side of the picture I posted in the angled wall.
> 
> Not to mention now I need to move one of my speakers to the far left as it is, any bigger and I'm obscuring the screen with the speaker plus placement is not optimal.
> 
> So my space from the header drop down to the corner of the 45 degree is 115" and the screen is 109" in width.
> 
> The other options is to move it out from the wall roughly 18" so I can get around the 45 then we're right butted up against the wall and the header on the other side.
> 
> The 79" I have now looks a bit small but laying out the frame of the 120 versus this and its a huge difference, almost 45" bigger in width.


120 is my max feasible too. Gonna be great. Embrace it. Sure beats the crap outta my 50 or 60!

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## McBadden

dholmes54 said:


> Does anyone like the 5040-6040.I just got the 6040 havnt hooked it up yet,seems like I bought the wrong projector after reading all the bad opions here.


I love my 5040ub. Might have bought the ube version if I had done more research beforehand, but no regrets. The primary issue discussed on this forum is with HDR compatibility. My PJ throws a bold and beautiful image despite the HDR limitation. There will always be the next greatest piece of hardware around the corner. Even if Epson releases a "5050" tomorrow with 100% HDR compatibility, I will still enjoy movies and games with no remorse. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

After all the discussions about HDR in these few pages, I decided to make another attempt at my settings on the pj.
This time I thought
- will not use any CMS or GAMA from review sites (that I have to blindly follow until I actually measure some day)
- change only that I can using the S&M disk

After that attempted, I again popped my usual UHDs and I must say I am not too "unhappy" with the HDR picture.
I have listed my settings below. Now these may not work for you 100% based on your setup. But I suggest use S&M or some such disk to get close.
The setting mentioned only are changed. Rest were left at default that Epson sets them to.

Color Mode : Digital Cinema
Brightness : 51
Contrast : 32
Saturation : 45
Tint : 60
Sharpness : 10,10,10
Color Temp : 7
Image preset : 1
Lens Iris : (-10 for SDR, -5 or below for HDR)
Auto Iris : Normal

Color Mode : Cinema
Brightness : 50
Contrast : 33
Saturation : 44
Tint : 62
Sharpness : 10,10,10
Color Temp : 7
Image preset : 1
Lens Iris : (-10 for SDR, -5 or below for HDR)
Auto Iris : Normal


I did notice that there is clipping on Red channel and some on blue. I will make an attempt to fine tune going into CMS. But that is guessing (as someone said) without actual measurement.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave Harper said:


> I don't have that disc. I use R. Masciola's Patterns, Joe Kane's disc and DVE Bluray along with a pattern generator. Generally though, you want to try to resolve as many of those bars as you can so you have some head room, but without clipping or the whites starting to change colors like pink, etc. I would try setting a combination of your source and the display on both limited (hate that term here!) and expanded while using the brightness and contrast patterns on the discs and see which ones give you the BtB and WtW bars visible. If you get them using expanded then keep it that way, preferrably in both devices. Remember this is all recommendations for HDR to get the most dynamic range you can from your projector, it's not really for other sources that are more mature like HDTV, DVD and HD Blurays where limited 16-235 YCbCr is recommended.
> 
> Someone attached a link about this and I found the end paragraphs to be applicable and good in this situation:
> 
> http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration/hdmi-black-levels-xvycc-rgb


Thanks Dave..
I stayed with Auto everything, that gave me maximum visible bars.


----------



## rjguk

little_donkey said:


> My projector when turned on started wit very loud fan, fans at high speed and no image. Blinking blue power light. Had to disconnect the power cable. Happened twice this week. Should I worry? Maybe update the firmware?
> 
> Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


Mine has done it once, at just over 100 hours. Twice sounds more concerning.
My understanding is that it isn't uncommon due to the fine tuning of the way it strikes the lamp - if it doesn't strike it shuts down. Regular occurrence could mean the lamp has a problem. I'd contact Epson just to have it noted in case it becomes a warranty issue.


----------



## quick2k3

Im getting a lot of graininess/noise in the picture that I notice most in dark scenes. Some BDs seem to be worse than others. Last night I was watching Band of Brothers BD when they were in the plane prior to the drop in Normandy (its a pretty dark scene) and it got so bad at one point it almost looked like static on the screen. Band of Brothers might not be the best example because I think it has a lot of natural grain to it but this isn't the only content Ive noticed it with.

I tried turning off/on 4K, Image Enh, sharpness, super resolution and noise reduction. I also made sure it was in Fine instead of Fast. There was some change but still an awful lot of noise. 

Im pretty sure my HDMI cable is g2g as I have no problem with 4K HDR from Roku Ultra.

Am I missing anything?


----------



## aaranddeeman

quick2k3 said:


> Im getting a lot of graininess/noise in the picture that I notice most in dark scenes. Some BDs seem to be worse than others. Last night I was watching Band of Brothers BD when they were in the plane prior to the drop in Normandy (its a pretty dark scene) and it got so bad at one point it almost looked like static on the screen. Band of Brothers might not be the best example because I think it has a lot of natural grain to it but this isn't the only content Ive noticed it with.
> 
> I tried turning off/on 4K, Image Enh, sharpness, super resolution and noise reduction. I also made sure it was in Fine instead of Fast. There was some change but still an awful lot of noise.
> 
> Im pretty sure my HDMI cable is g2g as *I have no problem with 4K HDR from Roku Ultra.
> *
> Am I missing anything?


Then it will be either the disk itself or the player.
What player do you have?


----------



## quick2k3

aaranddeeman said:


> Then it will be either the disk itself or the player.
> What player do you have?


One of the Samsung 3D BD players (I dont remember the model of the top of my head.) 

Im impatiently waiting for the Oppo. I'll have to try playing it from the Xbox One.


----------



## achanonier

Smarty-pants said:


> If you guys want to try something, I think you may be surprised at this.
> Now keep in mind this is just something I tried, and there is no official calibration done here.
> It's also a very specific set of settings for a specific UHD title, so I do not know how it will look with other movies.
> I honestly have had no extra time to find any HDR/UHD patterns to try and do any real calibrations for UHD on my system yet,
> so just think of this as an experiment. Be sure to let me know if you love or hate it.
> I'm starting to think HDR may be a real option on this projector.
> 
> Epson UHD Extreme Settings for HDR-2
> 
> STAR TREK: BEYOND UHD BD
> This title defaults the PJ to the HDR-2 Dynamic Range setting.
> This may or may not work for other UHD titles that default to a different or same Dynamic Range setting.
> Remember to keep your Dynamic Range, Color Space, and similar settings at default/AUTO.
> You want to make sure the projector is receiving 4k resolution, HDR, and WCG.
> 
> COLOR MODE: BRIGHT CINEMA
> BRIGHTNESS: 48
> CONTRAST: 100
> COLOR: 85
> TINT: 50
> SHARPNESS: 0
> COLOR TEMP: 5/3
> IMAGE ENHANCEMENT: PRESET 2
> GAMMA: 2
> SUPER WHITE: OFF
> LENS IRIS: 0
> POWER CONSUMPTION: ECO
> (feel free to experiment with higher power and different lens iris settings)



Hey !

I just received yesterday the Panasonic UHD BD player.
I've made some test to set things the way you do and I must admit I have really good results !

I use the Natural color profile (I prefer its gamma curve to Bright Cinema)

COLOR MODE: Natural
BRIGHTNESS: 48
CONTRAST: 90
COLOR: 65
TINT: 50
GAMMA: 2
LENS IRIS: 0
POWER CONSUMPTION: ECO

I didn't notice any burned bright areas, but I'm sure I had with settings over 65 on the Samsung K8500...

Image is bright and defined, lots of details in dark areas (more than with SDR) and I still have the effects of HDR !

However this setting is terrible for PS4pro HDR gaming everything is burnt...

Well I need more playing around but I'm happy right now !


----------



## Threefiddie

SALadder22FF said:


> Screen Innovations 120" Black Diamond arrived today. All the pieces coming in.


did they take you out to dinner first?


----------



## dataJunkie

dev23007 said:


> THis was the question I needed answered/.


"Does the 5040 UB output 4k shifting at 60Hz? HTPC games or/and movies?"

You get 60hz, but wiht an 8-bit 4:2:0 colour space ... still looks amazing IMO ... 

nVidia let me create a custom res : 2160x1440, (this is a kind of sweet spot for me) and I can set this at 12-bit @ 60hz with full RGB. PJ reports this aas 1080p tho .. so dunno if the graphics Driver is fooling the PJ somehow ... maybe someone can elaborate a bit more than I ?


----------



## gnolivos

Im trying to troubleshoot/verify 4K streams via PS4 and Netflix app. I can't find a way to display the current stream quality info as on my PS3. In other, words, if used to display 720, 1080, 4K, etc. WHILE STREAMING. Not on the ps4 app?


----------



## welldun

shepdog said:


> MSRP: $2999.00
> 
> 
> * SCROLL DOWN FOR KNOWN ISSUES*
> 
> *The brilliant HDR-compatible home theater projector with 4K Enhancementb*.
> 
> Offering exceptional color performance, the Home Cinema 5040UB delivers immersive experiences. Featuring 4K Enhancement Technology, this brilliant home theater projector supports 4K streaming devices and Ultra HD Blu-ray content. It's also compatible with High Dynamic Range (HDR) content, displaying an extraordinary range of brightness levels with deep, dramatic blacks. Delivering 2,500 lumens of color brightness and 2,500 lumens of white brightness, the 5040UB is ideal for a variety of rooms. Its expansive color gamut displays the entire sRGB and DCI color spaces3. A 1,000,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio ensures rich detail in both bright and dark scenes, while its 16-piece glass lens achieves stunning clarity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Up to 3x Brighter Colors with Epson**
> 
> Brilliant image quality requires high color brightness. Epson 3LCD projectors have up to 3x Brighter Colors than leading competitive projectors.* Delivering 2500 lumens of color brightness and 2500 lumens of white brightness, the PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB uses 3LCD, 3-chip technology for brilliant images with true-to-life color.
> 
> 
> 
> *Model*:V11H71302
> 
> 
> 
> *Projection System*:Epson 3LCD, 3-chip optical engine
> 
> 
> 
> *Native Resolution*:1080p (1920 x 1080) with 4K enhancement
> 
> 
> 
> *Color Brightness*:2500 lumens
> 
> 
> 
> *White Brightness*:2500 lumens
> 
> 
> 
> Product Guides & Additional Information:
> 
> http://m.epson.com/alf_upload/pdfs/projectors/brochure_5040UB_specs.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Key Features*
> 
> 
> 
> *Bright and Colorful*
> 
> 
> 
> Features 2500 lumens of color brightness (color light output)1 and 2500 lumens of white brightness (white light output)1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *4K Enhancement Technology*
> 
> 
> 
> Epson's 4K Enhancement Technology delivers astonishing picture quality — every subtle intricacy is captured.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Contrast Ratio*
> 
> Up to 1,000,000:1 contrast ratio
> 
> 
> *Lens Shift*
> 
> Equipped with horizontal and vertical lens shift, to help configure projector setup
> 
> 1080p
> 
> Supports full HD 1080p resolution
> 
> *3-Dimensional Picture*
> 
> 2D & 3D Full HD technology puts you right in the middle of exciting, lifelike adventures, and Bright 3D Drive allows for bright, 3D projection.
> 
> 
> 
> *4K Enhancement Technology*— accepts 4K input and supports HDCP 2.2 for truly immersive scenes with 4K content
> 
> *HDR compatible* — enjoy HDR content, with an extremely wide range of brightness levels for images bursting with real-life color
> 
> *Bright* — ideal for a variety of lighting conditions.
> 
> The Home Cinema 5040UB has:
> 
> Color Brightness: 2500 lumens2
> 
> White Brightness: 2500 lumens2
> 
> *Expansive color gamut *— get brilliant, color-rich performance that displays the entire sRGB color space, plus DCI in Digital Cinema Mode
> 
> *Dramatic Ultra Black levels *— an improved iris design delivers up to a 1,000,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio
> 
> *Remarkable new cinema lens *— designed and manufactured in Japan, it features a 16-piece glass structure optimized for 4K performance and precision
> 
> *Epson Image Enhancement Technology *— features Super-resolution and improved Detail Enhancement to sharpen and refine images for lifelike smoothness and clarity
> 
> *Powered lens position memory* — preset up to 10 positions for motorized focus, zoom and lens shift; features 2.1x zoom and ultra wide lens shift
> 
> *Outstanding service *— 2-year limited warranty and toll-free support
> 
> 
> 
> Eco Features
> 
> RoHS compliant
> 
> Recyclable product4
> 
> Epson America, Inc. is a SmartWay Transport Partner5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For more information on Epson's environmental programs, go to www.epson.com/environment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *****TIPS*****
> 
> Manually Setting HDR
> Menu -> Signal -> Advanced
> 
> 
> 
> ***********video explaining 4:4:4***********
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Royboy 365 suggested a spot for known issues
> 
> 
> ******KNOWN ISSUES******
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * The Samsung UBD-8500 does not pass 10 or 12bit, and only Rec709. Waiting on firmware update. *
> 
> Kpump is also reporting that the Epson does not detect HDR from the shield after trying several cables.
> 
> Looks like the Philips player is the only player that provides HDR to the Epson at this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to cnorth12
> Samsung player has HDR streaming through Amazon App.
> 
> No Netflix HDR as of yet. Firmware update supposedly anytime, but who knows?
> 
> Philips has only 2 apps, Netflix and Youtube no HDR.
> 
> Xbox One S offers Netflix HDR streaming but that's it and of course the 4k blu-ray player that comes built in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From wbcollegekid


Good day all, 

Since this first post seems to be set up to alert us of features, compatibility and other changes, is there any chance that it can be updated with instructions for firmware updates and compatibility with newer devices like the Chromecast Ultra? Also a short list of HDMI cables that work properly.

Thanks.

FYI, I've had my 5040UB for less than a week and so far I'm loving it. After nearly 10 years with my EMP-TW700, this new one was worth the wait! Also I mentioned HDMI cable above because my "not so old" cable from monoprice was giving me issues which the new cable that Projector People included with the purchase was able to resolve. the new cable is a 10 feet long cable from Comprehensive model number COMHDHD10EST.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Threefiddie said:


> did they take you out to dinner first?


Out of curiosity, how much did you spend on your screen?


----------



## am2model3

from what i read, Creed UHD blu ray is not the best demo movie to view. (they said the movie scan isn't as great) 
You may want to try something like Star Trek 1,2,3 or another film on UHD with special effects.


----------



## Threefiddie

SALadder22FF said:


> Out of curiosity, how much did you spend on your screen?


I think 850 or 900 for 134" carada. certainly no where near si territory that's for sure lol.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Ronman79 said:


> My understanding is Cinema and Digital Cinema are the only ones with the color filter engaged for WCG.


 Yep. In fact you can prove this while switching the preset profiles. Whenever you switch to Cinema or Digital Cinema from another profile, you can hear the filter sliding in and out of place.



raviatuofu said:


> Hooked up my Philips BDP7501 with Creed UHD.
> UHD is not impressive :crying:. Tried all the settings on 5040 which were mentioned here.
> 
> In the end, turned off UHD on Philips and life is simple again.


While I have done some calibrating and can get HDR to look decent on the 5040,
once I switch back to SDR, it is just more pleasing overall.
I think over time most will agree, like they do with almost all projectors, that SDR with BT2020 will be the best way to go.
This can be done with an HDfury, but there may be other options available soon too.



Dave Harper said:


> I don't have that disc. I use R. Masciola's Patterns, Joe Kane's disc and DVE Bluray along with a pattern generator. Generally though, you want to try to resolve as many of those bars as you can so you have some head room, but without clipping or the whites starting to change colors like pink, etc. I would try setting a combination of your source and the display on both limited (hate that term here!) and expanded while using the brightness and contrast patterns on the discs and see which ones give you the BtB and WtW bars visible. If you get them using expanded then keep it that way, preferrably in both devices. Remember this is all recommendations for HDR to get the most dynamic range you can from your projector, it's not really for other sources that are more mature like HDTV, DVD and HD Blurays where limited 16-235 YCbCr is recommended.
> 
> Someone attached a link about this and I found the end paragraphs to be applicable and good in this situation:
> 
> http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration/hdmi-black-levels-xvycc-rgb


I thought everyone into calibration had the S&M disc, lol. 

Regarding the expanded RGB, I found that I can get both WTW and BTB, but I have to turn the contrast down pretty far,
like 15 notches lower than with it set to limited. I just wonder if the overall brightness and CR of the image suffers as a result,
and it's impossible to tell for sure without a true side by side comparison or a light meter.
I'll have to do some more tweaking, and see just where Superwhite fits into the same scenario too.

If you can find the time, I'd love to see what kind of calibrated settings you came up with for the 5040.
I tried searching the thread but gave up after a while.


----------



## covsound1

hd fury works with latest soft ware. with phillips or panny should be connected to receiver and fury to input of projector. on blue ray player set to 444 60 not 420 60 or you will get sdr709 at 12 bits only. also turn off dynamic hdr as the receiver will not let it pass,the projector will pick it back up. with the bt app allow all setting on. channel selection use matrix swap. hdcp use 2.2 +1.4 button in the middle. edid settings custom. edid automix allow ycbcr bt2020 and hdr. automix max audio max video. edid custom 8 for full signal with hdr or 10 for bt 2020 with out hdr. with the phone app you can leave it in 8 most of the time or switch to 10 if you run across a dark hdr movie. the updated edid or hardware to my eyes gives you a more flim like picture than with out the fury. black levels, colors ,pop all better with both bt2020 and hdr . side note the phillips latest update also fixed netflex no you dont get hdr but 709 8bit standard or 4k looks better than all the steaming devices i have. i was going to wait for the oppo 203 but may look at the panny as it has netflex and amazon just needs vudo? hope this helps


----------



## rlhaidet

Epson Home Cinema 5040 works with Roku 4 Ultra 4K and looks amazing. However, when I plug the Roku into my Yamaha RX-A860...nothing. Has anyone had compatibility issues regarding Yamaha and Epson?? Help


----------



## rjguk

rlhaidet said:


> Epson Home Cinema 5040 works with Roku 4 Ultra 4K and looks amazing. However, when I plug the Roku into my Yamaha RX-A860...nothing. Has anyone had compatibility issues regarding Yamaha and Epson?? Help


On the Yamaha you need to use 4k mode 1 (in advanced settings) so that it handles everything. The default is mode 2 where it is more restrictive.

For advanced settings hold down 'Straight' on the front panel and power the unit on, then 'Program' to select an item and 'Straight' to select a setting.

Edited to add: Pages 127-129 in the manual for more details and explanation.

Edited again: if it isn't the above then see whether it works with the Roku plugged in to the same cable that currently goes from the Yamaha to the PJ, in case it is the cable that won't pass the signal.


----------



## gnolivos

rjguk said:


> On the Yamaha you need to use 4k mode 1 (in advanced settings) so that it handles everything. The default is mode 2 where it is more restrictive.
> 
> For advanced settings hold down 'Straight' on the front panel and power the unit on, then 'Program' to select an item and 'Straight' to select a setting.
> 
> Edited to add: Pages 127-129 in the manual for more details and explanation.
> 
> Edited again: if it isn't the above then see whether it works with the Roku plugged in to the same cable that currently goes from the Yamaha to the PJ, in case it is the cable that won't pass the signal.




Good info. I had no idea. I have a A750. 

Make sure both zones are off or it won't work.


----------



## dslethal123

The wall I'm putting a screen on is 13ft wide by 7ft 8in tall. The seating can go back as far as 20ft. I'm not sure how large a screen I can go with on the wall dimensions I provided. I'm not sure if I can go over 100inches with the screen size. If 100inches is the max I can go, will this project work fine with a screen this size?


----------



## Threefiddie

you can go bigger!


----------



## dholmes54

Do any of you use a cover to keep dust out of the Epson when not in use,also what are the best settings for the 6040? Thxs


----------



## dslethal123

Is there a preferred screen for this projector? 

If I wanted to keep the screen costs under $1000, what screen would be suggested for this projector? Is there a significant gain in quality to the "average joe" if I spend more than $1000 on a screen?


----------



## kevinlg

So I hate to be this guy but I need help. I have been researching a way to get HDR out of my Xbox One S and it's showing it will only allow 8-bit 4k. I have a 6040UB

I'm using all current gen AudioQuest and Transparent cables and my processor is the Anthem AVM 60 so I know none of those are the issue.

I came across an article that shows that the Phillips UHD blu ray is the only one that can do bt.2020 through the Epson, does that still hold true?

What components are working properly in 4K w/ HDR on the 5040/6040UB? And what settings/presets are needed to get it working.

Other than that I am shocked how much sharper it is than my 65ES, I'm doing a A/B comparison with a couple shots as well to compare both models.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

I'm using HDR/Bright Cinema settings & for my setup it's bright enough & quite enjoyable, any more improvements are highly welcomed. I just hate switching from Auto to HDR1 all the time, hope at least they fix that ASAP.


----------



## Whopper80

Hi,

I cannot get HDR in Netflix on the PS4Pro or the Philips BDP7501. HDR from UHD works. I get 4K from the Philips and PS4Pro on Netflix though.
I use the 5040UBE connected to a DENON 4200W.

Is that normal?


----------



## Stecchino

Anyone know the maximum number of simultaneously connected 3D glasses this will support? Most I ever did on my Epson 3500 was 7.


----------



## mase1981

Anyone noticed new firmware 1.08? i cant find changelog so no idea what changed... i just updated from 1.04... i got the 6040ub


----------



## gnolivos

I'd ask that if ANYONE here has experienced precise memory recall of Lens Shift, please post and confirm. 

I submit that this is a 100% widespread issue. Prove me wrong please.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

mase1981 said:


> Anyone noticed new firmware 1.08? i cant find changelog so no idea what changed... i just updated from 1.04... i got the 6040ub




do u have link? the UK site still have the older one


----------



## mase1981

ana_moo_ana said:


> do u have link? the UK site still have the older one


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## ana_moo_ana

mase1981 said:


> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 1819729




thanks a lot


----------



## MississippiMan

dslethal123 said:


> Is there a preferred screen for this projector?
> 
> If I wanted to keep the screen costs under $1000, what screen would be suggested for this projector? Is there a significant gain in quality to the "average joe" if I spend more than $1000 on a screen?


If your Theater Room is "dedicated" (...that is to say intelligently Light Controlled...) and the Wall / Ceiling surfaces are essentially non-reflective (...your low ceiling could be at issue...), believe it or not, a Silver Ticket Fixed Screen in Matte White could leave you very happy.
https://www.amazon.com/STR-169100-Silver-Ticket-Cinema-Projector/dp/B00HZRM9K0/

If you have a Prime membership, you really have nothing to worry about. Get one...try it. Not satisfied? Return it on their Ticket.

If you need any degree of ambient light resistance, things get only a bit more dicey, choice wise, but spending at / over $1000.00 for a 100" screen? 

That would be stewpid.

BTW...if your only going to have 1 row of seats, with a wall as high as your Screen wall, 120" diagonal is easily doable.


Really, you need to provide more room details. But essentially, a 122" 16:9 screen is 60" x 107" 

7' 8" = 92"

Placing the top of a 122" diagonal screen at 12" from the ceiling leaves the bottom edge 20" off the floor. That's fine for Single Row Seating. 

A 110" diagonal screen (54" x 96") at the same height would up the Floor to Screen measurement to 26".

Moral? Go big, as the "Big Picture" ain't "Big" unless it's BIG! And with this PJ, Big is Mo'Bedder!


----------



## MississippiMan

gnolivos said:


> I'd ask that if ANYONE here has experienced precise memory recall of Lens Shift, please post and confirm.
> 
> I submit that this is a 100% widespread issue. Prove me wrong please.


Don't'cha hate being right? 'Cause ya are....unfortunately.


----------



## Oledurt

I got the hd fury linker today. so is this supposed to make a better pic? Why do people recommend the linker? What is the hype all about. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hernandez_t

Has anyone successfully used the Sanus Systems VMPR1 mount with the 5040ub?


----------



## gnolivos

MississippiMan said:


> Don't'cha hate being right? 'Cause ya are....unfortunately.




Well I opened a ticket with Epson today. I hope everybody else with the same issue calls in to report their problem. So far, they think it's just my unit!


----------



## therecanbeonly1

mase1981 said:


> Anyone noticed new firmware 1.08? i cant find changelog so no idea what changed... i just updated from 1.04... i got the 6040ub


How do you update the firmware, I cannot see anything in the manual?


----------



## mase1981

therecanbeonly1 said:


> How do you update the firmware, I cannot see anything in the manual?


http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530500en.pdf


----------



## ana_moo_ana

can I use the same file for the European model 9300?


----------



## siuengr

MississippiMan said:


> If your Theater Room is "dedicated" (...that is to say intelligently Light Controlled...) and the Wall / Ceiling surfaces are essentially non-reflective (...your low ceiling could be at issue...), believe it or not, a Silver Ticket Fixed Screen in Matte White could leave you very happy.
> https://www.amazon.com/STR-169100-Silver-Ticket-Cinema-Projector/dp/B00HZRM9K0/
> 
> If you have a Prime membership, you really have nothing to worry about. Get one...try it. Not satisfied? Return it on their Ticket.
> 
> If you need any degree of ambient light resistance, things get only a bit more dicey, choice wise, but spending at / over $1000.00 for a 100" screen?
> 
> That would be stewpid.
> 
> BTW...if your only going to have 1 row of seats, with a wall as high as your Screen wall, 120" diagonal is easily doable.
> 
> 
> Really, you need to provide more room details. But essentially, a 122" 16:9 screen is 60" x 107"
> 
> 7' 8" = 92"
> 
> Placing the top of a 122" diagonal screen at 12" from the ceiling leaves the bottom edge 20" off the floor. That's fine for Single Row Seating.
> 
> A 110" diagonal screen (54" x 96") at the same height would up the Floor to Screen measurement to 26".
> 
> Moral? Go big, as the "Big Picture" ain't "Big" unless it's BIG! And with this PJ, Big is Mo'Bedder!


I agree. I went with the 120" Silver Ticket and couldn't be happier. I have it in a small light controlled room, and the picture looks great with the 5040.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> I got the hd fury linker today. so is this supposed to make a better pic? Why do people recommend the linker? What is the hype all about. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Shouldn't we be asking those questions to you now? 
Anyways, please play with it and let us know if it's worth..


----------



## Eric_Connelly

Mine will be here tomorrow by 8pm according to Amazon.

Got my screen hung today, Silver Ticket 120" Grey 1.0.


----------



## c.kingsley

dslethal123 said:


> Is there a preferred screen for this projector?
> 
> If I wanted to keep the screen costs under $1000, what screen would be suggested for this projector? Is there a significant gain in quality to the "average joe" if I spend more than $1000 on a screen?


Being this was my first projector, I started at the lower end for screens. Here is what I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/STR-169120-S...sr=8-1-spons&keywords=silver+ticket+120&psc=1

I'm impressed with the quality but I'm sure there are better screens. How much better are they? The cost rises dramatically and I have doubts that the performance increases linearly with the cost. My room is completely light controlled and I think this screen looks excellent for what I paid.


----------



## c.kingsley

kevinlg said:


> So I hate to be this guy but I need help. I have been researching a way to get HDR out of my Xbox One S and it's showing it will only allow 8-bit 4k. I have a 6040UB
> 
> I'm using all current gen AudioQuest and Transparent cables and my processor is the Anthem AVM 60 so I know none of those are the issue.
> 
> I came across an article that shows that the Phillips UHD blu ray is the only one that can do bt.2020 through the Epson, does that still hold true?
> 
> What components are working properly in 4K w/ HDR on the 5040/6040UB? And what settings/presets are needed to get it working.
> 
> Other than that I am shocked how much sharper it is than my 65ES, I'm doing a A/B comparison with a couple shots as well to compare both models.


You can't get 4k HDR from the XB1S because it expects 18gbps HDMI in order to enable it. The Philips, Panasonic and Samsung players all will work for HDR, just make sure to update the firmware. I still wouldn't use the XB1S for UHD even if it did do HDR, because it is still downmixing all of the audio. You'll need a dedicated player for Atmos if you have it.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

First time projector and 5040UBe owner. Woot. Going to try to install myself. Going to project from about 12' to a 110" Silver Ticket screen. Just spend some time with a stud finder and I looks like it's going to be 6" or so off center based on the location of the studs. The center line of the screen is basically in between two studs. Can keystone correct for _horizontal _misalignment?


----------



## Eric_Connelly

flapjackdowntheline said:


> First time projector and 5040UBe owner. Woot. Going to try to install myself. Going to project from about 12' to a 110" Silver Ticket screen. Just spend some time with a stud finder and I looks like it's going to be 6" or so off center based on the location of the studs. The center line of the screen is basically in between two studs. Can keystone correct for _horizontal _misalignment?



Stud location does not matter as you can move the brackets along the back of the screen.

Assuming you have 16 on center studs there would be 5 studs behind the screen. Put the screws on the two outer most and slide the attaching bracket over to match them.


----------



## Waikis

A quick update regarding hdfury linker. There's a firmware update that fixes compatibility with ps4 pro. 

When I enable edid#10, hdr can now still be enabled from the ps4's system menu.

HOWEVER, the hdr option is still disabled from the ingame menu in games such as FF15.

I think for games which picks up the hdr setting at the os level (eg ratchet clank), the linker might work in stripping the hdr, ill have to check those later.

But hey at least we are getting somewhere.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Eric_Connelly said:


> Stud location does not matter as you can move the brackets along the back of the screen.
> 
> Assuming you have 16 on center studs there would be 5 studs behind the screen. Put the screws on the two outer most and slide the attaching bracket over to match them.


Thanks for the response! Sorry, I did a poor job of explaining. The screen is mounted. It's the projector I still need to mount. I want to mount it to the ceiling 12' back from the screen. But, based on the locations of the ceiling joists the projector won't be centered to the screen. It'll be off 6" to the left or right, depending on which joist I attach the mount to. So, I'm wondering if that can be corrected? I know, I'm a total noob here.


----------



## Stecchino

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Thanks for the response! Sorry, I did a poor job of explaining. The screen is mounted. It's the projector I still need to mount. I want to mount it to the ceiling 12' back from the screen. But, based on the locations of the ceiling joists the projector won't be centered to the screen. It'll be off 6" to the left or right, depending on which joist I attach the mount to. So, I'm wondering if that can be corrected? I know, I'm a total noob here.



Perhaps you can place the projector on something high momentarily (with help) to simulate the mounted position. Just to be more certain. But between the lens shift and the option of last resort (keystone) that doesn't seem like you're off by much.


----------



## Oledurt

aaranddeeman said:


> Shouldn't we be asking those questions to you now?
> 
> Anyways, please play with it and let us know if it's worth..



Ok so I can confirm that the HD Fury linker does indeed allow you to remove HDR and keep the BT2020 color space. It is very easy to do.

You place the linker between the AVR and Projector.

You download the Linker Drivers and GUI from the HD Fury website onto a laptop. 

You plug the hdmi cables into the linker, and plug the linker into the laptop.

On the linker you select Custom EDID mode.

You turn on the projector and the UHD player and start a 4k movie

Open the Linker GUI on the laptop now you can see the exact input and output. Basically what is going into the Linker and what is going out to the projector.

Now you simply pull down the list of custom EDID's and select number 18 4k-422 12 Bit BT.2020 All Sound

Now you go to tab two on the GUI and you select the option to Force BT.2020.

Unplug the Linker from the laptop plug it back into its power supply and enjoy!

You are now watching UHD with the BT.2020 colorspace in SDR.

Works perfectly and the result is awesome. When and if Epson releases firmware with more options to tweak HDR then i'll try to use HDR again. If not I am perfectly happy with the BT.2020 colorspace and SDR.


----------



## therecanbeonly1

mase1981 said:


> http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530500en.pdf


Thanks, didn't work on my 9300 but thanks for the information


----------



## gene4ht

Oledurt said:


> Ok so I can confirm that the HD Fury linker does indeed allow you to remove HDR and keep the BT2020 color space...You are now watching UHD with the BT.2020 colorspace in SDR...Works perfectly and the result is awesome. When and if Epson releases firmware with more options to tweak HDR then i'll try to use HDR again. If not I am perfectly happy with the BT.2020 colorspace and SDR.


Thanks for the detailed description and update! Subjectively speaking, in your estimation, can you quantify (percentage wise) the improvement of SDR 2020 over 709?


----------



## covsound1

Oledurt said:


> Ok so I can confirm that the HD Fury linker does indeed allow you to remove HDR and keep the BT2020 color space. It is very easy to do.
> 
> You place the linker between the AVR and Projector.
> 
> You download the Linker Drivers and GUI from the HD Fury website onto a laptop.
> 
> You plug the hdmi cables into the linker, and plug the linker into the laptop.
> 
> On the linker you select Custom EDID mode.
> 
> You turn on the projector and the UHD player and start a 4k movie
> 
> Open the Linker GUI on the laptop now you can see the exact input and output. Basically what is going into the Linker and what is going out to the projector.
> 
> Now you simply pull down the list of custom EDID's and select number 18 4k-422 12 Bit BT.2020 All Sound
> 
> Now you go to tab two on the GUI and you select the option to Force BT.2020.
> 
> Unplug the Linker from the laptop plug it back into its power supply and enjoy!
> 
> You are now watching UHD with the BT.2020 colorspace in SDR.
> 
> Works perfectly and the result is awesome. When and if Epson releases firmware with more options to tweak HDR then i'll try to use HDR again. If not I am perfectly happy with the BT.2020 colorspace and SDR.


is there a way to go back to full hdr or pass through with out using your lab top. say a push of a program button on the unit it self.


----------



## Oledurt

It is very noticeable The colors are much more realistic. I am watching the 4k Bourne moves which I have seen many times on Blu Ray, and the colors are just so much more true to life. 

I have also watched some movies with HDR active, and It looks even better because the colors have even more vibrancy with HDR. 

I used Dave Harpers settings he posted earlier in this thread using digital cinema mode. That calibration was watchable and you can really see the potential for HDR. Unfortunately, it was still a little too dark. 

The BT.2020 colorspace is vastly superior to rec.709, and you can definitely tell the difference even with SDR.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

covsound1 said:


> is there a way to go back to full hdr or pass through with out using your lab top. say a push of a program button on the unit it self.




Not with the linker I don't think. With the Integral there is an app so you can do everything right through the app. I ordered one of those too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

Here are some screenshots I took post Linker install. This is 4k with SDR and the BT.2020 colorspace. 

Using the exact calibration settings in the Sound and Vision review found here

http://www.soundandvision.com/conte...projector-review-settings#TBysFP4KFarv8toj.97

Needless to say I am very happy!




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Threefiddie

is it just the picture or is it blurry as can be? looks like the projector is out of focus.


----------



## Oledurt

Threefiddie said:


> is it just the picture or is it blurry as can be? looks like the projector is out of focus.




It is The Bourne Ultimatum in UHD. It is in focus the picture in the movie is a bit "fuzzy" I guess. 

I can post some other screens of a different scene.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Threefiddie

it's probably just the camera panning in the movie and the effect pausing can cause it to smear.


----------



## gnolivos

Oledurt said:


> It is The Bourne Ultimatum in UHD. It is in focus the picture in the movie is a bit "fuzzy" I guess.
> 
> I can post some other screens of a different scene.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Can you check what color bit depth the projector info screen shows after you do all the linker/fury trickery please? 8 or 12 bit?


----------



## Oledurt

gnolivos said:


> Can you check what color bit depth the projector info screen shows after you do all the linker/fury trickery please? 8 or 12 bit?















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

Oledurt said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thanks. I bet it looks great. Too bad this won't do 12 bit 4K 60hz at ANY subsampling.


----------



## Savatage316

I'm still not understanding why I get a pink screen on ps4 when a game has hdr on. 

Can someone with a ps4 download the resident evil 7 demo and load it up? I turned the game on and the main load screen was fine, but once it went to get into the main game of flicks to a pink screen. Now the game has no inner hdr on and off button, so I went out into ps4 display settings and turned hdr off and that of course let me run the game just fine. 

Can someone else try this and see what happens, make sure the hdr display setting in ps4 is set to automatic first


----------



## Threefiddie

Savatage316 said:


> I'm still not understanding why I get a pink screen on ps4 when a game has hdr on.
> 
> Can someone with a ps4 download the resident evil 7 demo and load it up? I turned the game on and the main load screen was fine, but once it went to get into the main game of flicks to a pink screen. Now the game has no inner hdr on and off button, so I went out into ps4 display settings and turned hdr off and that of course let me run the game just fine.
> 
> Can someone else try this and see what happens, make sure the hdr display setting in ps4 is set to automatic first


you cannot do hdr 4k with consoles on this projector...so you're getting pink screen of death. i'm surprised it's even trying...and didn't block the option.


----------



## Savatage316

Threefiddie said:


> you cannot do hdr 4k with consoles on this projector...so you're getting pink screen of death. i'm surprised it's even trying...and didn't block the option.



But I thought it would automatically adjust it to 2k hdr? That's why I'm confused. I know we can't get full 4k hdr but I thought 2k hdr was doable


----------



## Oledurt

gnolivos said:


> Thanks. I bet it looks great. Too bad this won't do 12 bit 4K 60hz at ANY subsampling.




Couple more screens












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

aaranddeeman said:


> After all the discussions about HDR in these few pages, I decided to make another attempt at my settings on the pj.
> This time I thought
> - will not use any CMS or GAMA from review sites (that I have to blindly follow until I actually measure some day)
> - change only that I can using the S&M disk
> 
> After that attempted, I again popped my usual UHDs and I must say I am not too "unhappy" with the HDR picture.
> I have listed my settings below. Now these may not work for you 100% based on your setup. But I suggest use S&M or some such disk to get close.
> The setting mentioned only are changed. Rest were left at default that Epson sets them to.
> 
> Color Mode : Digital Cinema
> Brightness : 51
> Contrast : 32
> Saturation : 45
> Tint : 60
> Sharpness : 10,10,10
> Color Temp : 7
> Image preset : 1
> Lens Iris : (-10 for SDR, -5 or below for HDR)
> Auto Iris : Normal
> 
> Color Mode : Cinema
> Brightness : 50
> Contrast : 33
> Saturation : 44
> Tint : 62
> Sharpness : 10,10,10
> Color Temp : 7
> Image preset : 1
> Lens Iris : (-10 for SDR, -5 or below for HDR)
> Auto Iris : Normal
> 
> 
> I did notice that there is clipping on Red channel and some on blue. I will make an attempt to fine tune going into CMS. But that is guessing (as someone said) without actual measurement.



Today I tried the Bright Cinema. That one is way too hard to calibrate in the absence of any measurement or appropriate test patterns.
However I realized that leaving it at it's default renders a fantastic HDR picture. You may just need to switch the HDR mode to HDR1.

I think I am done with tweaking this thing (for now). It's either Cinema or Digital Cinema for SDR as per calibration above and Bright Cinema with all defaults for HDR (in HDR1) for me.
I am now rethinking about the HDFury (that I was strongly considering until now)
Now time sit back, relax and enjoy some blu rays and UHDs that are still in shrink wraps..


----------



## seplant

Could someone with the 6040 using the included Chief mount take a quick measurement for me from the lens to the center of the mounting rod? My projector is on its way, and I'm trying to determine placement to get the screen width I'm planning on. Thanks.


----------



## covsound1

Oledurt said:


> Here are some screenshots I took post Linker install. This is 4k with SDR and the BT.2020 colorspace.
> 
> Using the exact calibration settings in the Sound and Vision review found here
> 
> http://www.soundandvision.com/conte...projector-review-settings#TBysFP4KFarv8toj.97
> 
> Needless to say I am very happy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i have the integral looks like they both push color and up. nice to know we can do bt2020 sdr if needed like mocking j or hdr2020 like pacific rim.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

aaranddeeman said:


> However I realized that leaving it at it's default renders a fantastic HDR picture. You may just need to switch the HDR mode to HDR1.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I am done with tweaking this thing (for now). It's either Cinema or Digital Cinema for SDR as per calibration above and Bright Cinema with all defaults for HDR (in HDR1) for me.



my exact same conclusion


----------



## Oledurt

In cinema mode identical settings. Top one is HDR, middle is SDR with B2020 colorspace, and last one is digital cinema mode calibrated for HDR using Dave Harpers settings found in this thread.


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NoTechi

Could someone with a HDFury linker and a xbox one s let us know whats possible in regards to games and Netflix please.

NoTechi


----------



## Waikis

Oledurt said:


> In cinema mode identical settings. Top one is HDR, bottom is SDR with B2020 colorspace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Judging from your Linker setting where you are forcing the output to be BT2020, are you sure you are not stretching rec 709 signal to bt2020?
If you set your player to rec 709 and select bt2020 in Epson, does it produce the same result for you?


----------



## rjguk

therecanbeonly1 said:


> Thanks, didn't work on my 9300 but thanks for the information


As far as I know the firmware files are international. The US one certainly worked on my UK 7300 and I compared that file with one obtained from the UK site.

The very first time I did one it didn't work, so I tried it on a different USB stick and it was fine. Some USB sticks have hidden partitions which may cause problems. The most important point is having the .bin file in the root directory (i.e. not in a folder) on the USB stick formatted as FAT32.
The Epson UK site gives a zip file which contains the .bin file and the PDF instuctions. The US site gives the .bin file directly, with a separate link (as above) for the PDF instructions. However, in spite of those differences up to now the .bin files have been the same.

Establishing that it can be done successfully is worth the effort, one less thing to worry about.


----------



## gnolivos

Waikis said:


> Judging from your Linker setting where you are forcing the output to be BT2020, are you sure you are not stretching rec 709 signal to bt2020?
> 
> If you set your player to rec 709 and select bt2020 in Epson, does it produce the same result for you?




I had the exact same question. Judging by those screenshots, it looks like it is just over saturating with 2020. I actually think the top picture looks better!


----------



## k3nnis

Does the linker help with anything with Xbox one S console?


----------



## gnolivos

Savatage316 said:


> But I thought it would automatically adjust it to 2k hdr? That's why I'm confused. I know we can't get full 4k hdr but I thought 2k hdr was doable




Have you tried setting the projector to 1080 P, and then re-launching the game to see if it does 2K HDR? 2K is 1080. 

Note that if your game is already launched, you may have to go to the PlayStation home screen, hover over the game icon, click option button, and close the application before relaunching.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> In cinema mode identical settings. Top one is HDR, bottom is SDR with B2020 colorspace.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I noticed this similar color cast (towards green or bit muted color) when I used Cinema mode in HDR (that is actually calibrated for and with SDR).
This is without Fury though.


----------



## dvdwilly3

aaranddeeman said:


> I noticed this similar color cast (towards green or bit muted color) when I used Cinema mode in HDR (that is actually calibrated for and with SDR).
> This is without Fury though.


If you have calibrated for one dynamic range, say SDR, and then shift to the other, in this case, HDR, without re-calibrating, isn't there going to be a color shift?

I know that is not the same as going from BT. 709 to BT. 2020, or vice versa, but it still seems to me that a shift in the contrast levels is going to cause a bit of a color spectrum shift...


----------



## kevinlg

c.kingsley said:


> You can't get 4k HDR from the XB1S because it expects 18gbps HDMI in order to enable it. The Philips, Panasonic and Samsung players all will work for HDR, just make sure to update the firmware. I still wouldn't use the XB1S for UHD even if it did do HDR, because it is still downmixing all of the audio. You'll need a dedicated player for Atmos if you have it.


Gotcha, thanks for the info! I'm waiting for the Oppo 4K to release this month


----------



## Oledurt

aaranddeeman said:


> I noticed this similar color cast (towards green or bit muted color) when I used Cinema mode in HDR (that is actually calibrated for and with SDR).
> 
> This is without Fury though.




Hmm I see what you mean. A more fair comparison then would be a calibrated SDR mode with BT2020 color space via linker vs a calibrated HDR mode. I'll work on that.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

this is what i meant by a push in color. it looks good but a little over the top. i notice this on both pass though or hdr2020 and bt2020 more so. to be fair i added a new hdmi cable form the phillips that was 29 dollars. a rocketfish 4ft hdmi form best buy. maybe i will fork it up for another audioquest .i know a lot of people dont believe but monsters cables push color or just a little over the top and add a little noise. this cable looks like the monster but with a little less noise. the audioquest has a balance about it (less over the top color) with less noise. (another way to explain when you use enhance mode 3 it looks more film like with all details clear)


----------



## Eric_Connelly

UPS showed up way earlier than expected.

Set it up really quick and off to get black out curtains for our side window.

One problem is I get what looks like whisps of smoke in the upper left corner. Is this a dust blob?

They roll up from the center and fall to the sides just like smoke in a fire would. Only see it in bright scenes but its very evident. Takes up about a 2'x3' corner on a 120" screen.

Detail is amazing but its just too bright in the room and I have a lot of adjusting yet to do.

Does the smoke effect mean it needs to be replaced?


----------



## Oledurt

Oledurt said:


> In cinema mode identical settings. Top one is HDR, middle is SDR with B2020 colorspace, and last one is digital cinema mode calibrated for HDR using Dave Harpers settings found in this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I updated this take a look.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Smarty-pants said:


> Yep. In fact you can prove this while switching the preset profiles. Whenever you switch to Cinema or Digital Cinema from another profile, you can hear the filter sliding in and out of place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I have done some calibrating and can get HDR to look decent on the 5040,
> 
> once I switch back to SDR, it is just more pleasing overall.
> 
> I think over time most will agree, like they do with almost all projectors, that SDR with BT2020 will be the best way to go.
> 
> This can be done with an HDfury, but there may be other options available soon too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought everyone into calibration had the S&M disc, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the expanded RGB, I found that I can get both WTW and BTB, but I have to turn the contrast down pretty far,
> 
> like 15 notches lower than with it set to limited. I just wonder if the overall brightness and CR of the image suffers as a result,
> 
> and it's impossible to tell for sure without a true side by side comparison or a light meter.
> 
> I'll have to do some more tweaking, and see just where Superwhite fits into the same scenario too.
> 
> 
> 
> If you can find the time, I'd love to see what kind of calibrated settings you came up with for the 5040.
> 
> I tried searching the thread but gave up after a while.



I had the disc but sold sold It along with my old calibration gear while I was "playing" overseas in Afghanistan and then moved here. I've since gotten a Gretag Macbeth iOne Pro to get me started again until I can build up my calibration business again and afford some higher end gear. 

I see you didn't read the ending paragraphs of the links I posted then, cuz it answers the expanded/extended question regarding the levels. 



kevinlg said:


> So I hate to be this guy but I need help. I have been researching a way to get HDR out of my Xbox One S and it's showing it will only allow 8-bit 4k. I have a 6040UB
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using all current gen AudioQuest and Transparent cables and my processor is the Anthem AVM 60 so I know none of those are the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I came across an article that shows that the Phillips UHD blu ray is the only one that can do bt.2020 through the Epson, does that still hold true?
> 
> 
> 
> What components are working properly in 4K w/ HDR on the 5040/6040UB? And what settings/presets are needed to get it working.
> 
> 
> 
> Other than that I am shocked how much sharper it is than my 65ES, I'm doing a A/B comparison with a couple shots as well to compare both models.



Having had the 350 side by side with the 5040 and now a 365es, I find that statement pretty hard to believe. If native 4K have one thing they're better at vs faux-k JVCs and Epsons, its native sharpness with their 8 million vs 4 million pixels. 



Oledurt said:


> I got the hd fury linker today. so is this supposed to make a better pic? Why do people recommend the linker? What is the hype all about. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



It allows bt2020 WCG without HDR, but I see you've figured it out in later posts. 



flapjackdowntheline said:


> Thanks for the response! Sorry, I did a poor job of explaining. The screen is mounted. It's the projector I still need to mount. I want to mount it to the ceiling 12' back from the screen. But, based on the locations of the ceiling joists the projector won't be centered to the screen. It'll be off 6" to the left or right, depending on which joist I attach the mount to. So, I'm wondering if that can be corrected? I know, I'm a total noob here.



If you have access above the ceiling you can span the space between the joists with 3/4" plywood and use that as a mounting point in between studs/joists.



Oledurt said:


> Ok so I can confirm that the HD Fury linker does indeed allow you to remove HDR and keep the BT2020 color space. It is very easy to do.
> 
> You place the linker between the AVR and Projector.
> 
> You download the Linker Drivers and GUI from the HD Fury website onto a laptop.
> 
> You plug the hdmi cables into the linker, and plug the linker into the laptop.
> 
> On the linker you select Custom EDID mode.
> 
> You turn on the projector and the UHD player and start a 4k movie
> 
> Open the Linker GUI on the laptop now you can see the exact input and output. Basically what is going into the Linker and what is going out to the projector.
> 
> Now you simply pull down the list of custom EDID's and select number 18 4k-422 12 Bit BT.2020 All Sound
> 
> Now you go to tab two on the GUI and you select the option to Force BT.2020.
> 
> Unplug the Linker from the laptop plug it back into its power supply and enjoy!
> 
> You are now watching UHD with the BT.2020 colorspace in SDR.
> 
> Works perfectly and the result is awesome. When and if Epson releases firmware with more options to tweak HDR then i'll try to use HDR again. If not I am perfectly happy with the BT.2020 colorspace and SDR.



See, THAT is the advantage of an HDFury! 



Oledurt said:


> In cinema mode identical settings. Top one is HDR, middle is SDR with B2020 colorspace, and last one is digital cinema mode calibrated for HDR using Dave Harpers settings found in this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I don't think I calibrated between each setting I was playing with, other than one for HDR and one for SDR initially. 

I didn't have my Linker when I did those posts earlier either, so I couldn't do SDR bt2020 at the time which is why the colors seem a little less saturated in that last image. They're more like the middle image now on my 365es. 



Waikis said:


> Judging from your Linker setting where you are forcing the output to be BT2020, are you sure you are not stretching rec 709 signal to bt2020?
> 
> 
> If you set your player to rec 709 and select bt2020 in Epson, does it produce the same result for you?



I was wondering the same thing, but the effect is similar when outputting true bt2020, but the colors aren't as "cartoony" when it's real 2020.


----------



## covsound1

Oledurt said:


> I updated this take a look.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


the black bars have all changed.i think the goal would be to maintain that black color of pic1. i dont understand why nobody talks about custom gamma settings.very happy you posted pics using your ipad.


----------



## kevinlg

I said the 65ES vs the 6040UB not a 365 or any native 4K projector.


----------



## Dave Harper

covsound1 said:


> the black bars have all changed.i think the goal would be to maintain that black color of pic1. i dont understand why nobody talks about custom gamma settings.very happy you posted pics using your ipad.



I've discussed trying different gamma to boost the midrange luminance to help with HDR. 



kevinlg said:


> I said the 65ES vs the 6040UB not a 365 or any native 4K projector.



OK sorry, must've read too fast! Good to know.


----------



## knucklehd

Savatage316 said:


> I'm still not understanding why I get a pink screen on ps4 when a game has hdr on.
> 
> Can someone with a ps4 download the resident evil 7 demo and load it up? I turned the game on and the main load screen was fine, but once it went to get into the main game of flicks to a pink screen. Now the game has no inner hdr on and off button, so I went out into ps4 display settings and turned hdr off and that of course let me run the game just fine.
> 
> Can someone else try this and see what happens, make sure the hdr display setting in ps4 is set to automatic first


I downloaded the demo. It works fine for me. Maybe you have an HDMI cable issue. All my settings at automatic and
it shows as 8bit 4:2:2 HDR mode2 bt 2020 (i change it to HDR mode 1)

I upgraded to an ONKYO TX-NR656, it is also on auto 4K.
I did the 1.08 firmware update last night, no difference noted, nothing new in the menus etc. I doubt its related to your problem, good luck.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

did some calibration today using Disney WoW disk. 

SDR:

























For HDR Im using the default Digital Brightness settings.


----------



## ch1sox

What's the difference between Digital Cinema and Cinema? Is natural or bright cinema better for daytime viewing? Have any reviews stated how many lumens each mode uses?


----------



## Eric_Connelly

Got some room darkening curtains and so far the whole thing has been a bit frustrating.

Based on another posters suggestion we picked up Secret Life of Pets on 4K BD playing through and updated 8500 and I updated the firmware on the Epson to 1.08.

It looks good but the colors do not pop the way I expected them to. Still seems a bit washed out.

Clarity wise its excellent. Everything else is not. 

On the PS4 Pro it is so oversaturated. Either too dark or too bright. Dark scenes in Destiny its just too dark to see. Adjust it so it looks decent. Then go into one of the menu's and its so bright everything is just overblown and basically anything on the lighter side of red is bright white.

I'm using a Silver Ticket Grey 1.0 screen.

DirectTV is the same way. 

Based on the pictures I've seen here I'm not anywhere near what others are getting. 

Did most people get good results out of the box for anything besides HDR BD?


----------



## vevans001

Sorry....noob question time.

I know you need a certain type of receiver for 4k, but I'm not sure how things work since the 5040 isn't an authentic 4k. I was considering using this receiver, which uses "4k video up conversion."

Will this receiver pair well with the 5040, or am I about to make a mistake?


----------



## rjguk

vevans001 said:


> Sorry....noob question time.
> 
> I know you need a certain type of receiver for 4k, but I'm not sure how things work since the 5040 isn't an authentic 4k. I was considering using this receiver, which uses "4k video up conversion."
> 
> Will this receiver pair well with the 5040, or am I about to make a mistake?


I've got the 779 and that works fine. The change from -79 to the current -81 models added Dolby Atmos but the rest of the spec and chassis is pretty much the same. You are getting it for a good price because of the newer model.
I've found the 4k upscaling works well, I can't really distinguish between the Yamaha upscaling and the Epson upscaling.


----------



## Savatage316

knucklehd said:


> I downloaded the demo. It works fine for me. Maybe you have an HDMI cable issue. All my settings at automatic and
> it shows as 8bit 4:2:2 HDR mode2 bt 2020 (i change it to HDR mode 1)
> 
> I upgraded to an ONKYO TX-NR656, it is also on auto 4K.
> I did the 1.08 firmware update last night, no difference noted, nothing new in the menus etc. I doubt its related to your problem, good luck.


I'm getting so annoyed because nobody seems to have this issue I have.. But the thing is, the picture I get as is, is amazing so it's hard to be that upset with it. Still I just want to figure this out. 

Is there a limit to hdmi cord length that could cause an issue?


----------



## Smarty-pants

Eric_Connelly said:


> UPS showed up way earlier than expected.
> 
> Set it up really quick and off to get black out curtains for our side window.
> 
> One problem is I get what looks like whisps of smoke in the upper left corner. Is this a dust blob?
> 
> They roll up from the center and fall to the sides just like smoke in a fire would. Only see it in bright scenes but its very evident. Takes up about a 2'x3' corner on a 120" screen.
> 
> Detail is amazing but its just too bright in the room and I have a lot of adjusting yet to do.
> 
> Does the smoke effect mean it needs to be replaced?


Do you have a heat vent blowing air in the light path of the image?
If so, then that could be what you are seeing. I had a similar issue when I got my first projector and
with the pj ceiling mounted a hvac vent was directly in front of the pj.
When the heat came on, it made a weird smokey look on part of the screen.
Took me a while to figure out what was going on, then suddenly a "facepalm" moment, lol.
Fortunately it was easy to rework the system and turn that vent into an air return.


----------



## Smarty-pants

dvdwilly3 said:


> If you have calibrated for one dynamic range, say SDR, and then shift to the other, in this case, HDR, without re-calibrating, isn't there going to be a color shift?
> 
> I know that is not the same as going from BT. 709 to BT. 2020, or vice versa, but it still seems to me that a shift in the contrast levels is going to cause a bit of a color spectrum shift...


That is what MEMORY profiles are for. Calibrate for a specific set of settings and save to memory,
then rename the memory to easily ready what it's for.
Can save multiple memory profiles for the same color mode.
Just have to remember to manually switch to the proper memory profile when necessary.


----------



## Smarty-pants

vevans001 said:


> Sorry....noob question time.
> 
> I know you need a certain type of receiver for 4k, but I'm not sure how things work since the 5040 isn't an authentic 4k. I was considering using this receiver, which uses "4k video up conversion."
> 
> Will this receiver pair well with the 5040, or am I about to make a mistake?


Video processing in an AVR is kinda worthless IMO, unless the display you are using just sucks.
I have always just used passthrough mode with AVR type processors.
Still though, for this type of stuff we are using these days, *you need to make sure the AVR is HDCP 2.2 and HDR compatible*.
Even if you are just using passthrough to the display, it still needs to handshake with the source device and if the source
device is doing 4K/HDR/WCG, you need to have that compatibility in your AVR.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Savatage316 said:


> I'm getting so annoyed because nobody seems to have this issue I have.. But the thing is, the picture I get as is, is amazing so it's hard to be that upset with it. Still I just want to figure this out.
> 
> Is there a limit to hdmi cord length that could cause an issue?


As others mentioned, it could be your cabling. If you have some elcheapo off brand cables, they may not have the proper
specs to pass the info to your display. Of course you don't need expensive cables, jut the right kind of cables.
While the 404/5040/6040 isn't full or true 4K, it still requires higher bandwidth than something like stand Blu-ray would.
You need to have proper high speed cables. Monoprice and BlueJeansCable are good sources for good cables that don't
break the bank account.
Of course it's possible that cabling isn't the issue, but just saying, if it is...


----------



## bezlar

Smarty-pants said:


> That is what MEMORY profiles are for. Calibrate for a specific set of settings and save to memory,
> 
> then rename the memory to easily ready what it's for.
> 
> Can save multiple memory profiles for the same color mode.
> 
> Just have to remember to manually switch to the proper memory profile when necessary.




I have memory set up for blue ray and one set up for uhd hdr. When I switch to the hdr memory it always defaults to hdr 2. Then I always have to go in at switch back to hdr 1. It's starting to piss me off. Then if I switch back to blue ray sdr it retains the hdr2 setting which then pisses me off again. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

dvdwilly3 said:


> If you have calibrated for one dynamic range, say SDR, and then shift to the other, in this case, HDR, without re-calibrating, isn't there going to be a color shift?
> 
> I know that is not the same as going from BT. 709 to BT. 2020, or vice versa, but it still seems to me that a shift in the contrast levels is going to cause a bit of a color spectrum shift...


Yes. You are absolutely right..


----------



## Smarty-pants

bezlar said:


> I have memory set up for blue ray and one set up for uhd hdr. When I switch to the hdr memory it always defaults to hdr 2. Then I always have to go in at switch back to hdr 1. It's starting to piss me off. Then if I switch back to blue ray sdr it retains the hdr2 setting which then pisses me off again.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I know what you mean. It sure would be nice if Epson included certain things like HDR, Blanking, and a few other
features to be saved to memory like the standard picture settings and lens memory.
Although the lens memory is completely fubar and I am not happy about that since it is one of the specific features
I bought the 5040 for.


----------



## rjguk

Smarty-pants said:


> Video processing in an AVR is kinda worthless IMO, unless the display you are using just sucks.
> I have always just used passthrough mode with AVR type processors.
> Still though, for this type of stuff we are using these days, *you need to make sure the AVR is HDCP 2.2 and HDR compatible*.
> Even if you are just using passthrough to the display, it still needs to handshake with the source device and if the source
> device is doing 4K/HDR/WCG, you need to have that compatibility in your AVR.


The Yamaha 679 cited by the poster does do passthrough, using the 'Direct' option, and is up-to-date except for the Atmos capabilities that were introduced at the model change. On my 779 I've tried to distinguish between passthrough and AV processing for 1080i > UHD upscaling, no difference I can notice although I'm sure there must be one...


----------



## aaranddeeman

seplant said:


> could someone with the 6040 using the included chief mount take a quick measurement for me from the lens to the center of the mounting rod? My projector is on its way, and i'm trying to determine placement to get the screen width i'm planning on. Thanks.


9-1/2"


----------



## Savatage316

Smarty-pants said:


> As others mentioned, it could be your cabling. If you have some elcheapo off brand cables, they may not have the proper
> specs to pass the info to your display. Of course you don't need expensive cables, jut the right kind of cables.
> While the 404/5040/6040 isn't full or true 4K, it still requires higher bandwidth than something like stand Blu-ray would.
> You need to have proper high speed cables. Monoprice and BlueJeansCable are good sources for good cables that don't
> break the bank account.
> Of course it's possible that cabling isn't the issue, but just saying, if it is...


That's the thing tho, it's a monoprice cable. The only thing I could guess is it's to long, does length affect anything? 

I just wish someone else has the issue so they could relate and let me know what they did to fix it. 

Only other thing I haven't done is update the firmware, which Is my next move... But is that something that could happen due to a lack of firmware update?


----------



## Eric_Connelly

Anyone with a PS4 Pro have some settings they like as a starting point?

I fixed the muddy/blooming imagery, forgot to set it back to SDR, huge difference. I assume this will fix my DTV problem too.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

Savatage316 said:


> That's the thing tho, it's a monoprice cable. The only thing I could guess is it's to long, does length affect anything?
> 
> I just wish someone else has the issue so they could relate and let me know what they did to fix it.
> 
> Only other thing I haven't done is update the firmware, which Is my next move... But is that something that could happen due to a lack of firmware update?


Yes cable length matters as far as price goes. Under 10' the cheap cables seem to work with no difference between cheap/expensive but as you get longer and longer the trend is more expensive and better built cables work better.

I went with the UBE specifically for this reason. I have to go across my room 15', up 15' and back to the center 15'. The extra $500 for the wireless easily made up for the annoyance with higher priced cables and getting it all behind the drywall.

If your doing a short run it should be fine. I'm running 4K 60hz on my PS4 Pro with the cheap braided Amazon cables and I've also run it with the super thin Monoprice cables no problems on a 6' cord.


----------



## dvdwilly3

Smarty-pants said:


> That is what MEMORY profiles are for. Calibrate for a specific set of settings and save to memory,
> then rename the memory to easily ready what it's for.
> Can save multiple memory profiles for the same color mode.
> Just have to remember to manually switch to the proper memory profile when necessary.


Trust me, I know about memory profiles...I have 10 separate profiles...

What I was responding to was his original posting, which read, in part...

"In cinema mode identical settings. Top one is HDR, middle is SDR with B2020 colorspace, and last one is digital cinema mode calibrated for HDR using Dave Harpers settings found in this thread."

I took his statement to mean that he had not necessarily re-calibrated between taking pictures. 

And, that if he had done that, I would expect a color shift...

And, when I pointed that out, he confirmed that was what he had done, and that he would do separate calibrations and take those pictures...


----------



## Smarty-pants

dvdwilly3 said:


> Trust me, I know about memory profiles...I have 10 separate profiles...
> 
> What I was responding to was his original posting, which read, in part...
> 
> "In cinema mode identical settings. Top one is HDR, middle is SDR with B2020 colorspace, and last one is digital cinema mode calibrated for HDR using Dave Harpers settings found in this thread."
> 
> I took his statement to mean that he had not necessarily re-calibrated between taking pictures.
> 
> And, that if he had done that, I would expect a color shift...
> 
> And, when I pointed that out, he confirmed that was what he had done, and that he would do separate calibrations and take those pictures...


K sorry, must have misread.
Yeah when doing comparisons like that, it is important to be separately calibrated for every combination.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Savatage316 said:


> That's the thing tho, it's a monoprice cable. The only thing I could guess is it's to long, does length affect anything?
> 
> I just wish someone else has the issue so they could relate and let me know what they did to fix it.
> 
> Only other thing I haven't done is update the firmware, which Is my next move... But is that something that could happen due to a lack of firmware update?


Length does matter depending on the situation.
If you are trying to send 4k/60 signals, you really should have a certified for 4K cable, and those usually max out at around
25 ft I think. Any longer than that and they are not guaranteed to work with the highest bandwidth signals.
However the 5040 shouldn't have such an issue since it can't even accept the highest bandwidth signals.
I have to have a longer (35 ft) cable, the Cabernet cable from Monoprice and it works great with UHD Blu-ray and Roku 4K.
I'm not a gamer so don't know about compatibility with gaming consoles.
Almost any cable should work at 3, 6, 10 ft lengths as long as it's a quality cable and is "high speed".

These are the 4K certified cables from Monoprice. http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15427

The Cabernet cables that may or may not be good for full 4K bandwidth, is located here.
http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506


----------



## vevans001

Sorry if this has already been mentioned, but when gaming, does the response time (lag...delay...whatever the appropriate word is) differ depending on whether you are wired in or using the wireless UBe?


----------



## audvid

hatlesschimp said:


> Lol let her pick the trim!
> 
> Im pretty pally with the painter. He said this black paint isnt the best. He ordered some only black pigment direct from the factory.


This is the blackest of the black paints you can find
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...0030032_Supersaturated_Concentrated_Base.html

It is called Rosco supersaturated black. It is also sold in magician supply stores. 
I did compare it to the blackest paint I could find at sherwin williams - no comparision. 
This paint should be used for the ceiling - especially, if the projector is ceiling mounted. You WILL notice substantial improvement with Rosco vs ordinary black. 

I tried Rosco black on side walls also - it was actually SCARY black.. Seriously, it became like a dungeon! Imemdiately, I changed the wall colors to dark red/maroon. 

Shades of red work just fine in theatre room - for side walls - and perhaps even carpet? Obviously, all black is ideal from Video perspective but maroon/red would work out just fine.. 
And, you can use a shade of grey, behind the projector - to lighten the ceiling too - if decorator approves. 
The key is the wall opposite to the screen. That needs to be as dark as possible - again, depending on the length of the room.. Dark red would work just fine (my room is about 27 feet long). 

In addition, you should consider acoustic panels on walls and ceiling. Extremely important! You can PM me if you wish and I can give you details as to how to do so, cost effectively. 
I dont want to deviate too much from the thread.. if you have questions/comments, just PM me. 
Good luck.


----------



## knucklehd

Savatage316 said:


> I'm getting so annoyed because nobody seems to have this issue I have.. But the thing is, the picture I get as is, is amazing so it's hard to be that upset with it. Still I just want to figure this out.
> 
> Is there a limit to hdmi cord length that could cause an issue?


The best thing you can do is rule out the cable by simply moving your PS4 close to the projector temporarily and trying a new shorter cable, rule out the AVR, etc.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

vevans001 said:


> Sorry if this has already been mentioned, but when gaming, does the response time (lag...delay...whatever the appropriate word is) differ depending on whether you are wired in or using the wireless UBe?



Zero difference. I was concerned about that but noticed no difference at all between 3 different TVs I play on and the projector via wireless.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

This is my first projector so how is the color fidelity compared to a regular LCD TV?

It is very pale and lacks pop especially in the reds.

I know I have to calibrate it but not sure if I should use one of the disc that's are available or buy something to do it.

I have a Spider, forget what version for my monitors but its automatic with software, not sure if would do me much good on the projector.


----------



## hatlesschimp

audvid said:


> This is the blackest of the black paints you can find
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...0030032_Supersaturated_Concentrated_Base.html
> 
> It is called Rosco supersaturated black. It is also sold in magician supply stores.
> I did compare it to the blackest paint I could find at sherwin williams - no comparision.
> This paint should be used for the ceiling - especially, if the projector is ceiling mounted. You WILL notice substantial improvement with Rosco vs ordinary black.
> 
> I tried Rosco black on side walls also - it was actually SCARY black.. Seriously, it became like a dungeon! Imemdiately, I changed the wall colors to dark red/maroon.
> 
> Shades of red work just fine in theatre room - for side walls - and perhaps even carpet? Obviously, all black is ideal from Video perspective but maroon/red would work out just fine..
> And, you can use a shade of grey, behind the projector - to lighten the ceiling too - if decorator approves.
> The key is the wall opposite to the screen. That needs to be as dark as possible - again, depending on the length of the room.. Dark red would work just fine (my room is about 27 feet long).
> 
> In addition, you should consider acoustic panels on walls and ceiling. Extremely important! You can PM me if you wish and I can give you details as to how to do so, cost effectively.
> I dont want to deviate too much from the thread.. if you have questions/comments, just PM me.
> Good luck.


This new black was better. Not sure how it compares to others like Rosco. I think Roaco make that good Green screen paint too. 

Was watching "Walking with Dinosaurs 3d" with my daughter this morning. Shes only 2 so I limited her 3d glasses time to bit here and there that I thought looked good. The Butterfly Scene near the mini waterfall was epic with plenty of pop. My daughter was trying to touch them. No cross talk or 3d issues at all and I was using the OEM epson 3d glasses.


----------



## seplant

Smarty-pants said:


> I know what you mean. It sure would be nice if Epson included certain things like HDR, Blanking, and a few other
> features to be saved to memory like the standard picture settings and lens memory.
> *Although the lens memory is completely fubar and I am not happy about that since it is one of the specific features
> I bought the 5040 for.*


Have you tried to open a ticket for the lens memory issue? gnolivos said in post #3979 that he opened a ticket yesterday, and Epson thought he was the only person with this problem.


----------



## seplant

aaranddeeman said:


> 9-1/2"


Thanks!


----------



## hatlesschimp

seplant said:


> Have you tried to open a ticket for the lens memory issue? gnolivos said in post #3979 that he opened a ticket yesterday, and Epson thought he was the only person with this problem.


I havent used the lens memory yet because im shooting onto a wall. But need it for my 2.37:1 screen when I install it.


----------



## dholmes54

Since I don't have ultra blu yet I'm going to use reg HDMI input on the 6040 from my Yamaha 2050,that way I don't have to mess with arc and I can still upconvert to 2160 for now.


----------



## seplant

hatlesschimp said:


> I havent used the lens memory yet because im shooting onto a wall. But need it for my 2.37:1 screen when I install it.


I'm in the same boat as you, chimp. My 6040 is its way, and I'm planning on converting from 16:9 to 2.35:1 and use the lens memory, so want to make sure everyone having this issue is reporting it to Epson. You might want to just play around with it...save your current lens position, shift the lens on yours to line up with something around your screen, maybe a speaker. Save that as a memory setting. Then try every day or so to go back and forth between memory settings, just to see if it works as you need it to. If not, report it to Epson!


----------



## lcrenshaw7

hatlesschimp said:


> This new black was better. Not sure how it compares to others like Rosco. I think Roaco make that good Green screen paint too.
> 
> Was watching "Walking with Dinosaurs 3d" with my daughter this morning. Shes only 2 so I limited her 3d glasses time to bit here and there that I thought looked good. The Butterfly Scene near the mini waterfall was epic with plenty of pop. My daughter was trying to touch them. No cross talk or 3d issues at all and I was using the OEM epson 3d glasses.


what black paint is this?


----------



## hatlesschimp

lcrenshaw7 said:


> what black paint is this?


Cant remember the paint name. But can get it for you. Are you in AUSTRALIA?


----------



## Mike Garrett

Just wanted to let everybody know the Epson 5040 goes on sale for $2,799 starting December 11th, until December 24th.


----------



## Dave Harper

Mike Garrett said:


> Just wanted to let everybody know the Epson 5040 goes on sale for $2,799 starting December 11th, until December 24th.



Anything for the UBe, or maybe 6040?


----------



## Mike Garrett

Dave Harper said:


> Anything for the UBe, or maybe 6040?


No, Epson did not put the 6040 or the 5040UBe on sale.


----------



## therecanbeonly1

rjguk said:


> As far as I know the firmware files are international. The US one certainly worked on my UK 7300 and I compared that file with one obtained from the UK site.
> 
> The very first time I did one it didn't work, so I tried it on a different USB stick and it was fine. Some USB sticks have hidden partitions which may cause problems. The most important point is having the .bin file in the root directory (i.e. not in a folder) on the USB stick formatted as FAT32.
> The Epson UK site gives a zip file which contains the .bin file and the PDF instuctions. The US site gives the .bin file directly, with a separate link (as above) for the PDF instructions. However, in spite of those differences up to now the .bin files have been the same.
> 
> Establishing that it can be done successfully is worth the effort, one less thing to worry about.


Thanks, reformatted the USB and it worked first time, any idea what was in this update?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Mike Garrett said:


> Just wanted to let everybody know the Epson 5040 goes on sale for $2,799 starting December 11th, until December 24th.


Hey. How are you breaking the "no price talk" rule..


----------



## Smarty-pants

aaranddeeman said:


> Hey. How are you breaking the "no price talk" rule..


LOL... house rules. Do as I say, not as I do.


----------



## McBadden

Savatage316 said:


> That's the thing tho, it's a monoprice cable. The only thing I could guess is it's to long, does length affect anything?
> 
> I just wish someone else has the issue so they could relate and let me know what they did to fix it.
> 
> Only other thing I haven't done is update the firmware, which Is my next move... But is that something that could happen due to a lack of firmware update?


I was told by my installer that at the time of my installation there were no HDMI cables that could deliver HDR content beyond 50 feet, but that they expected them to be available soon. 4K yes, HDR no. I have a long run between my equipment cabinet and projector, so this affects me as well. But since my sole 4k HDR source is an XBox1S which is not compatible with the HDR of the 5040ub anyway, I haven't been too concerned about it. 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

McBadden said:


> I was told by my installer that at the time of my installation there were no HDMI cables that could deliver HDR content beyond 50 feet, but that they expected them to be available soon. 4K yes, HDR no. I have a long run between my equipment cabinet and projector, so this affects me as well. But since my sole 4k HDR source is an XBox1S which is not compatible with the HDR of the 5040ub anyway, I haven't been too concerned about it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


I ordered a 25' new active cable, gonna see if that clears up my issue. I got a feeling it will as I'm running 30 footer and I think it passes hdr even 2k atm


----------



## dvdwilly3

audvid said:


> This is the blackest of the black paints you can find
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...0030032_Supersaturated_Concentrated_Base.html
> 
> It is called Rosco supersaturated black. It is also sold in magician supply stores.
> I did compare it to the blackest paint I could find at sherwin williams - no comparision.
> This paint should be used for the ceiling - especially, if the projector is ceiling mounted. You WILL notice substantial improvement with Rosco vs ordinary black.
> 
> I tried Rosco black on side walls also - it was actually SCARY black.. Seriously, it became like a dungeon! Imemdiately, I changed the wall colors to dark red/maroon.
> 
> Shades of red work just fine in theatre room - for side walls - and perhaps even carpet? Obviously, all black is ideal from Video perspective but maroon/red would work out just fine..
> And, you can use a shade of grey, behind the projector - to lighten the ceiling too - if decorator approves.
> The key is the wall opposite to the screen. That needs to be as dark as possible - again, depending on the length of the room.. Dark red would work just fine (my room is about 27 feet long).
> 
> In addition, you should consider acoustic panels on walls and ceiling. Extremely important! You can PM me if you wish and I can give you details as to how to do so, cost effectively.
> I dont want to deviate too much from the thread.. if you have questions/comments, just PM me.
> Good luck.


My room is painted a pretty dark plum, all 4 walls and ceiling and it works very well. My wife was a consultant and she liked the color.

I second the notion of room treatment. If nothing else, use traps in the 4 corners. It helps clean things up nicely, without being visually obtrusive. Actually, I think it looks kinda cool.

I will post a couple of pics when I get to the desktop.


----------



## Mike Garrett

aaranddeeman said:


> Hey. How are you breaking the "no price talk" rule..


I am not breaking it. That price is the MSRP on the 5040 for today until December 24th. Epson lowered the pricing.


----------



## audvid

dvdwilly3 said:


> My room is painted a pretty dark plum, all 4 walls and ceiling and it works very well. My wife was a consultant and she liked the color.


Sounds like a great choice.. Dark plum, dark red - almost any dark color should work fine. I myself am not a fan of black.. but with a ceiling mounted projector, black ceiling is preferable but dark plum would work out just fine! Good choice!


----------



## gene4ht

gene4ht said:


> Chief Ceiling Mount:
> 
> For those of you who currently have an RPA ceiling mount or are interested in this mount and don't want or care for the universal bracket, a custom SLB bracket specifically for the 5040/6040 is available. However, it cannot be found on Chief's website or in a retailer's inventory...yet. After my inquiry with Chief, I was told that it only recently became available as a special build item. The bracket has the designation SLB357 and can be ordered from Chief or retailers. If ordering from a retailer, it's very likely they (1) don't know it exists and/or (2) will tell you it is not in theirs and Chief' website database. It isn't....you'll need to instruct them to call Chief to confirm and order. The list price is $171 but competitive retailers will quote significantly less.* I placed my order today but because it's a special build, I was only given an estimated ETA of 2 weeks or less*.


Just a quick update: I ordered the SLB357 on the 7th and received UPS notification today that it will be delivered tomorrow the 12th. Not too shabby for a "special build" item that's not in retail inventory...5 calendar days which includes 2 weekend days! Upon arrival, I'll provide a further update to confirm it is indeed the correct custom bracket for the 5040/6040.


----------



## troy9173

*Philips UHD Mode*

I am trying to watch Netflix 4K movie on 5040ub. It does not appear that the HDR is working. I have all the settings on auto on the Philips and the 5040, but the info screen on the 5040 says:


Color Depth: 8 bit 4:2:0
Color Format: BT.709 SDR


It does not appear the HDR is kicking in. Can anyone advise?


Thanks, T
Troy.


----------



## gnolivos

Im finding. YouTube app on PS4 pro very finicky. I load 4K videos and sometimes they display full res according to the YT player statistics screen. Other times it locks in at 1080 or even lower. My internet speed is 35mbps. And I'm wired. Can't be a projector issue can it?


----------



## Threefiddie

great price drop again... now back to the debate of getting this projector vs. keeping my current projector and getting an oled.


----------



## Smarty-pants

gnolivos said:


> Im finding. YouTube app on PS4 pro very finicky. I load 4K videos and sometimes they display full res according to the YT player statistics screen. Other times it locks in at 1080 or even lower. My internet speed is 35mbps. And I'm wired. Can't be a projector issue can it?


That sounds like par for the course when it comes to streaming (unfortunately).
Just last night, simply trying to watch HBO On Demand from DirecTV, it was buffering and showing a message that
my ISP may be at fault, but the DirecTV receiver was the only IP device running in the house and my speed is 30mbps.
I have seen it on YT as well, and this is the fault of the source we are streaming from.
(IE: YouTube, DirecTV, Netflix, etc...)
They don't send the proper bandwidth that they advertise so they can save money on resources and provide
content to twice as many people with half the bandwidth and half the cost so they make more money.
It's kind of ridiculous at this point in the game, but until the "government" cracks down harder on their unethical
practices, there's not much we can do about it aside from not giving them our money.


----------



## gnolivos

Smarty-pants said:


> That sounds like par for the course when it comes to streaming (unfortunately).
> 
> Just last night, simply trying to watch HBO On Demand from DirecTV, it was buffering and showing a message that
> 
> my ISP may be at fault, but the DirecTV receiver was the only IP device running in the house and my speed is 30mbps.
> 
> I have seen it on YT as well, and this is the fault of the source we are streaming from.
> 
> (IE: YouTube, DirecTV, Netflix, etc...)
> 
> They don't send the proper bandwidth that they advertise so they can save money on resources and provide
> 
> content to twice as many people with half the bandwidth and half the cost so they make more money.
> 
> It's kind of ridiculous at this point in the game, but until the "government" cracks down harder on their unethical
> 
> practices, there's not much we can do about it aside from not giving them our money.




Well when it does go 4K it looks incredible.


----------



## gnolivos

gnolivos said:


> Well when it does go 4K it looks incredible.




Still think this is a Ps4 pro specific issue. I had the roku4 and it played the same video perfectly every time. I checked.


----------



## dvdwilly3

audvid said:


> Sounds like a great choice.. Dark plum, dark red - almost any dark color should work fine. I myself am not a fan of black.. but with a ceiling mounted projector, black ceiling is preferable but dark plum would work out just fine! Good choice!


A few shots...

The front standing at the door...
The rear standing at the door...
The front at MLP...
The projector without flash...
The projector with flash...

You can see the acoustic panels in the corners...
The posters all have a matte, non-reflective "glass". I think that it is fiberglass.
They don't show here, but I have top front and top rear.
All of my wiring for tops is running under the baseboard that can be seen on the far wall or in the raceway on top of it.


----------



## audvid

dvdwilly3 said:


> A few shots...
> 
> The front standing at the door...
> The rear standing at the door...
> The front at MLP...
> The projector without flash...
> The projector with flash...
> 
> You can see the acoustic panels in the corners...
> The posters all have a matte, non-reflective "glass". I think that it is fiberglass.
> They don't show here, but I have top front and top rear.
> All of my wiring for tops is running under the baseboard that can be seen on the far wall or in the raceway on top of it.


Your room looks great.. Nice choice of colors.. But your posters.. you should get fabric posters.. If you want, I can tell you where to get them.. There is a company in NY - they will print anything on fabric.. I can send you the name.. i forgot.. i used it.. You might wish to consider making acoustic panel boards, with fabric and the posters you like? 

Attached are my before and after pictures.. Sadly, I did not pay attention to the color of my room, for 19 years! I was too lazy to change.. I changed the colors only recently.. 
HUGE difference.. And when I redid the panels and mounted them 3" away from the wall, again, a huge acoustical improvement. I did not use any acoustic analysis software.. Just winged it..


----------



## dev23007

*Question on 2k gaming*

I have my Epson 5040 via expensive hmdi certified cables to a denon receive to my gtx1070 , bf1 4k native set through NVidia desktop and in game at about 50fps [email protected] no problem. My question is for some reason I cant play games at 2k 1440p 60hz? am I missing something? in game and in nvida control panel it locks off 60 hz? can only set it to 2k at 30Hz? no luck with custom resolution just get black screen on test. is it my denon receiver or does the Epson not accept 2k @ 60 hz?


----------



## Dandlj

hatlesschimp said:


> Cant remember the paint name. But can get it for you. Are you in AUSTRALIA?




Yes please.

I was looking at this colour http://www.taubmans.com.au/colourcentre/colour-details/63628/mojo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robstl

I compared Sicario Blu-ray with Sicario UHD Blu-ray using a Samsung UBD K8500. The UHD's Rec. 2020 HDR was definitely a big color improvement in exterior shots, though interior shots seemed to not benefit nearly as much. The resolution increase, however, was hardly noticeable on my 150" screen at a seating distance of 15'. Subtitles were a bit clearer and whiter but at least for the most part, the resolution appeared the same between the Blu-ray and UHD Blu-ray. I also watched Life of Pi on UHD and had a similar experience. Any comments on why? 

By comparison, a 4k recording of the Olympics looked vastly superior than in 1080i. The 4k recording was so clear that it looked like I was really there. I was expecting this same sort of result from the resolution increase of UHD but so far I am very disappointed.


----------



## gnolivos

Are you sure your projector is getting 4K resolution from your player? What does the info screen show?


----------



## dvdwilly3

audvid said:


> Your room looks great.. Nice choice of colors.. But your posters.. you should get fabric posters.. If you want, I can tell you where to get them.. There is a company in NY - they will print anything on fabric.. I can send you the name.. i forgot.. i used it.. You might wish to consider making acoustic panel boards, with fabric and the posters you like?
> 
> Attached are my before and after pictures.. Sadly, I did not pay attention to the color of my room, for 19 years! I was too lazy to change.. I changed the colors only recently..
> HUGE difference.. And when I redid the panels and mounted them 3" away from the wall, again, a huge acoustical improvement. I did not use any acoustic analysis software.. Just winged it..


Thanks re the offer on the fabric posters...but I will pass. The current posters have not been a problem...

Good move on the panels. Many people mistakenly mount them directly on the wall.
The gap adds to their effectiveness...


----------



## robstl

gnolivos said:


> Are you sure your projector is getting 4K resolution from your player? What does the info screen show?


Yes, the Epson shows 3840 x 2160 resolution and HDR 2 Rec. 2020. I figured at 150" I would easily see the resolution increase.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Dandlj said:


> Yes please.
> 
> I was looking at this colour http://www.taubmans.com.au/colourcentre/colour-details/63628/mojo
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I find out today for ya! 🖒


----------



## gnolivos

robstl said:


> Yes, the Epson shows 3840 x 2160 resolution and HDR 2 Rec. 2020. I figured at 150" I would easily see the resolution increase.




Well HDR kinda sucks on this pj. Set it to hdr1 and brilliant Cinema. Should look at least decent. But yeah SDR 1080 will look better. Maybe perceived as sharper too.


----------



## seplant

robstl said:


> I compared Sicario Blu-ray with Sicario UHD Blu-ray using a Samsung UBD K8500. The UHD's Rec. 2020 HDR was definitely a big color improvement in exterior shots, though interior shots seemed to not benefit nearly as much. The resolution increase, however, was hardly noticeable on my 150" screen at a seating distance of 15'. Subtitles were a bit clearer and whiter but at least for the most part, the resolution appeared the same between the Blu-ray and UHD Blu-ray. I also watched Life of Pi on UHD and had a similar experience. Any comments on why?
> 
> By comparison, a 4k recording of the Olympics looked vastly superior than in 1080i. The 4k recording was so clear that it looked like I was really there. I was expecting this same sort of result from the resolution increase of UHD but so far I am very disappointed.


Are those UHD Blu-rays made from 4K masters? Pretty sure Life of Pi is not.


----------



## Oledurt

I am happy with this projector for what it is. It is not perfect, and for 3k it is around a 25% better pic than the previous epson 5030ub. my plan is to keep this for 3 years, and than see how the technology is. Until then I will enjoy my 25% better picture.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

my recomended hdr moivies to show what this pg can doacific rim,lucy,ninja turtles shadows,the last witch hunter, warcraft,star trek into the darknes,star trek,gods of egypt,deadpool,x-men future past. just some i own.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> Well HDR kinda sucks on this pj. Set it to hdr1 and brilliant Cinema. Should look at least decent. But yeah SDR 1080 will look better. Maybe perceived as sharper too.


Most of us on here have found that HDR2 is the only acceptable setting as HDR1 is far too dim. There are also a number of posts showing the settings to ensure that you get BT.2020 color and good brightness rather than having to resort to SDR


----------



## achanonier

Hi Guys

I'm still working on this HDR thing.

After testing HDR back and forth with SDR, I still like the way HDR looks. (Very lifelike picture !)
Altough it may not be perfectly correct as regards to function transfer or calibration I like the picture I get.

But now I'm still debating two different calibrations

*Setting 1 - *
Natural Mode Eco Mode
*HDR 2*
Gamma + 2
*Contrast 70* (Yes I went from 90 to 70 because I had burnt skies in Deadpool)
Color 60
Other settings at default value

or 

*Setting 2 - *
Natural Mode Eco Mode
*HDR 1*
Gamma + 2
*Contrast 50*
Color 60
Other settings at default value


Both look pretty good !

I kinda like the setting with HDR 1 better (I have more room to prevent burnt skies and it looks a little more punchy in mid tones) but 
- I hate to have to switch HDR mode each time I need to watch HDR content
- What about for movies that do not default to HDR 2? Are they any of theses ? (For example if a movie defaults to HDR3, the best setting may be HDR2 instead of HDR1 so it will be a pain in the a** to programm a consistent behaviour with a programmable remote...
- I want a consistent setting and not have to bother each time...


Any suggestions ? How do you guys handle this ?


----------



## dvdwilly3

achanonier said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> I'm still working on this HDR thing.
> 
> After testing HDR back and forth with SDR, I still like the way HDR looks. (Very lifelike picture !)
> Altough it may not be perfectly correct as regards to function transfer or calibration I like the picture I get.
> 
> But now I'm still debating two different calibrations
> 
> *Setting 1 - *
> Natural Mode Eco Mode
> *HDR 2*
> Gamma + 2
> *Contrast 70* (Yes I went from 90 to 70 because I had burnt skies in Deadpool)
> Color 60
> Other settings at default value
> 
> or
> 
> *Setting 2 - *
> Natural Mode Eco Mode
> *HDR 1*
> Gamma + 2
> *Contrast 50*
> Color 60
> Other settings at default value
> 
> 
> Both look pretty good !
> 
> I kinda like the setting with HDR 1 better (I have more room to prevent burnt skies and it looks a little more punchy in mid tones) but
> - I hate to have to switch HDR mode each time I need to watch HDR content
> - What about for movies that do not default to HDR 2? Are they any of theses ? (For example if a movie defaults to HDR3, the best setting may be HDR2 instead of HDR1 so it will be a pain in the a** to programm a consistent behaviour with a programmable remote...
> - I want a consistent setting and not have to bother each time...
> 
> 
> Any suggestions ? How do you guys handle this ?


You are using the memory to save theses sets? Right?

Like...HDR Set 1...HDR Set 2...HDR Set 3...etc.?

So, then all that you do is load whichever memory setting.


----------



## achanonier

dvdwilly3 said:


> You are using the memory to save theses sets? Right?
> 
> Like...HDR Set 1...HDR Set 2...HDR Set 3...etc.?
> 
> So, then all that you do is load whichever memory setting.


Yes I do of course buth the HDR mode setting is not part of the user presets.
You have to manually change it... Signal---> Advance --> Dynamaic range blablabla... which pisses me off...


----------



## aaranddeeman

ndabunka said:


> Most of us on here have found that *HDR2 is the only acceptable* setting as HDR1 is far too dim.


You mean HDR1..


----------



## aaranddeeman

achanonier said:


> Yes I do of course buth the HDR mode setting is not part of the user presets.
> You have to manually change it... Signal---> Advance --> Dynamaic range blablabla... which pisses me off...


Yes. That's bit of an annoyance.
Anything in "Image" tab is saved. Everything else need to be adjusted manually


----------



## gnolivos

aaranddeeman said:


> Yes. That's bit of an annoyance.
> 
> Anything in "Image" tab is saved. Everything else need to be adjusted manually




Actually some settings outside of the image tab do get saved as well.


----------



## kg505

NoTechi said:


> Could someone with a HDFury linker and a xbox one s let us know whats possible in regards to games and Netflix please.
> 
> NoTechi


The Linker will give you a couple of options for games. You can choose 4K 4:2:0 8bit HDR which will cause some banding which I only really find noticeable in the sky in Forza Horizon 3. It'll also let you choose 1080P 4:4:4 10/12 bit HDR which is what I use since games on the xbox one s are all 1080P native anyways. 

Another big advantage of the linker with the xbox one s was just released in the latest linker firmware which was to add a setting that lets you change the 4K 24Hz 4:4:4 12 bit HDR signal into a 4k 24Hz 4:2:2 12 bit HDR signal which now gives you the ability to use the xbox one s as a 4k HDR bluray player. 

I don't have netflix so I haven't tried that functionality out but since it is a 60hz signal the linker should give you the same options that it does for games.


----------



## dvdwilly3

achanonier said:


> Yes I do of course buth the HDR mode setting is not part of the user presets.
> You have to manually change it... Signal---> Advance --> Dynamaic range blablabla... which pisses me off...


Yeah, I went downstairs and played with the projector...and it does not save the Dynamic Range setting with Save Memory.
And, the Epson default if the Dynamic Range is on Auto is HDR2, which for me is too dark.

Here is a thought...a workaround certainly, but it would avoid the PITA over having to manually reset the Dynamic Range setting.

Leave the Dynamic Range setting on Auto. When you pop in a bluray, you get SDR.
And, when you pop in a UHD, you get HDR2, the Epson default.

Leave the Dynamic Range setting on the Epson on Auto and calibrate the rest of the settings for UHD to tweak HDR2.

Not exactly what we would like, but it would work to keep everyone from having to jump around in the menu
to reset the Dynamic Range every time that you change from UHD to bluray and vice versa.


----------



## Oledurt

dvdwilly3 said:


> Yeah, I went downstairs and played with the projector...and it does not save the Dynamic Range setting with Save Memory.
> And, the Epson default if the Dynamic Range is on Auto is HDR2, which for me is too dark.
> 
> Here is a thought...a workaround certainly, but it would avoid the PITA over having to manually reset the Dynamic Range setting.
> 
> Leave the Dynamic Range setting on Auto. When you pop in a bluray, you get SDR.
> And, when you pop in a UHD, you get HDR2, the Epson default.
> 
> Leave the Dynamic Range setting on the Epson on Auto and calibrate the rest of the settings for UHD to tweak HDR2.
> 
> Not exactly what we would like, but it would work to keep everyone from having to jump around in the menu
> to reset the Dynamic Range every time that you change from UHD to bluray and vice versa.




this is a response from Epson when I spoke with them about HDR being too dark.

Hi Guthrie,

Overwrote the Auto mode for HDR by selecting HDR mode 1 means all contact will be viewed as HDR1, even SDR content this will effect the colors and brightness, when watching SRD content he has to go in and change the setting to SDR or Auto. We are working on a Firmware that will allow the Auto mode to select HDR 1 or 2, but when watching SDR content the PJ will go to SDR mode, that FW should be released by end of this month or early January.


Regards,
Matt S. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdwilly3

Oledurt said:


> this is a response from Epson when I spoke with them about HDR being too dark.
> 
> Hi Guthrie,
> 
> Overwrote the Auto mode for HDR by selecting HDR mode 1 means all contact will be viewed as HDR1, even SDR content this will effect the colors and brightness, when watching SRD content he has to go in and change the setting to SDR or Auto. We are working on a Firmware that will allow the Auto mode to select HDR 1 or 2, but when watching SDR content the PJ will go to SDR mode, that FW should be released by end of this month or early January.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Matt S.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Good to know. Thanks!

I will just leave it as is and deal with it for now.

If we keep beating on Epson long enough, maybe they will get all of the "features" (Apple speak...) fixed.

Still a great projector...


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Oledurt said:


> this is a response from Epson when I spoke with them about HDR being too dark.
> 
> Hi Guthrie,
> 
> Overwrote the Auto mode for HDR by selecting HDR mode 1 means all contact will be viewed as HDR1, even SDR content this will effect the colors and brightness, when watching SRD content he has to go in and change the setting to SDR or Auto. We are working on a Firmware that will allow the Auto mode to select HDR 1 or 2, but when watching SDR content the PJ will go to SDR mode, that FW should be released by end of this month or early January.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Matt S.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




great to hear, this is badly needed.


----------



## terminal33

achanonier said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> I'm still working on this HDR thing.
> 
> After testing HDR back and forth with SDR, I still like the way HDR looks. (Very lifelike picture !)
> Altough it may not be perfectly correct as regards to function transfer or calibration I like the picture I get.
> 
> But now I'm still debating two different calibrations
> 
> *Setting 1 - *
> Natural Mode Eco Mode
> *HDR 2*
> Gamma + 2
> *Contrast 70* (Yes I went from 90 to 70 because I had burnt skies in Deadpool)
> Color 60
> Other settings at default value
> 
> or
> 
> *Setting 2 - *
> Natural Mode Eco Mode
> *HDR 1*
> Gamma + 2
> *Contrast 50*
> Color 60
> Other settings at default value


I'll have to try these settings today and see how it looks. But yesterday I watched the 4K BD of X-men: Apocalypse in SDR - Eco - Natural - Gamma 0 - Philips player, and it looked incredible! I was plenty happy with the results; especially the detail, clarity, and black level. But I'm curious to see how your settings will look.


----------



## ryanoletzke

Hi - newbie here 

I'm looking to buy the epson 5040ub this holiday before Christmas, looking at that $2799 sale 

I have a few questions for the thread here.

First my setup:

1. I have a 130" 16:9 DIY AT screen that I am very pleased with. (viewing distance is 13 or so feet)
2. I currently have the epson 8350, and I am ready to upgrade.
3. I have a DENON AVR-E400 7.1 AV receiver, it has 4K/3D pass through capability, but I don't think it has HDCP 2.2.
4. I run Comcast Xfinity cable, and have an xbox One S, and apple tv. 
5. I am running an HDMI cable about 30 feet through the ceiling from the receiver to the projector.
6. Total light control in my basement (no windows)

My viewing content priority:

1. Football and sports in general.
2. Xbox one S for gaming.
3. Movies (thinking to use the xbox one S player for this) Also, stream from Apple TV.

Questions:

1. Will my receiver (Denon AVR-E400) work? Do I need to upgrade it to get the 4K - e-shift enhancement feature to work on the new epson? Or will the "4K pass through" feature work?
2. Will I need to run a new/another HDMI cable to access the features of the 4K e-shift enhancement?

Thanks for the input!


----------



## NoTechi

kg505 said:


> The Linker will give you a couple of options for games. You can choose 4K 4:2:0 8bit HDR which will cause some banding which I only really find noticeable in the sky in Forza Horizon 3. It'll also let you choose 1080P 4:4:4 10/12 bit HDR which is what I use since games on the xbox one s are all 1080P native anyways.
> 
> Another big advantage of the linker with the xbox one s was just released in the latest linker firmware which was to add a setting that lets you change the 4K 24Hz 4:4:4 12 bit HDR signal into a 4k 24Hz 4:2:2 12 bit HDR signal which now gives you the ability to use the xbox one s as a 4k HDR bluray player.
> 
> I don't have netflix so I haven't tried that functionality out but since it is a 60hz signal the linker should give you the same options that it does for games.


Many thanks for the feedback! 

Since I got the wireless Epson I got 4k HDR UHDs with the xbox already. But the HDR at 1080p with games sounds interesting. Will have to think it over if its really worth it just to have games in HDR at 1080p since the linker is not cheap. 

NoTechi


----------



## chiltonj

Just received pre-order for the 203, anyone else looking at buying? $549. Not sure if it's worth what my Philips can do. Would like feedback please. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Stecchino

If any of you have been dealing with stripping HDR metadata (@oledurt) as an interim solution and tweaking the color settings, Oppo has confirmed on their FAQ page for their new UHD player that they're just released UDP 203 can strip HDR metadata optionally for "Projectors and older 4K TVs" that don't support it. If someone purchased one of the fury devices for the express purpose it might not be necessary if you use this Oppo. 

As for me I have spent zero time tweaking HDR settings so far but will finally get around to it once the Oppo player arrives next month.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

thats so cool, I only wish they release Netflix app soon, dont have the extra 2.2 HDCP HDMI input on my receiver.


----------



## Stecchino

ana_moo_ana said:


> thats so cool, I only wish they release Netflix app soon, dont have the extra 2.2 HDCP HDMI input on my receiver.




Oppo's approach is apparently to have a slimmed down OS (and presumably quicker loading). Their official recommendation on the FAQ page is to plug in your Roku Ultra or whatever into the HDMI input on the back of the Oppo, which is 4K UHD friendly.

So you still only need the one 2.2 HDCP HDMI input on your receiver, the chain stays intact.


----------



## Ronman79

Just bought mine! Have wanted an Oppo for a long time. Expected features like the ability to strip HDR from UHD discs for projectors like this one (haven't made my mind up yet) seems like a great addition to the stellar rep of the already extremely brand.... 




chiltonj said:


> Just received pre-order for the 203, anyone else looking at buying? $549. Not sure if it's worth what my Philips can do. Would like feedback please.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

chiltonj said:


> Just received pre-order for the 203, anyone else looking at buying? $549. Not sure if it's worth what my Philips can do. Would like feedback please.


I've ordered the 203 for my HT and will use the 7501 for the living/family room system.. For me, the primary advantage of the 203 is that it supports 4K, bt2020, SDR without the need for an HD Fury Integral. This was confirmed by @Smarty-pants in the owner's thread.



Stecchino said:


> If any of you have been dealing with stripping HDR metadata (@oledurt) as an interim solution and tweaking the color settings, Oppo has confirmed on their FAQ page for their new UHD player that they're just released UDP 203 can strip HDR metadata optionally for "Projectors and older 4K TVs" that don't support it. If someone purchased one of the fury devices for the express purpose it might not be necessary if you use this Oppo.
> 
> As for me I have spent zero time tweaking HDR settings so far but will finally get around to it once the Oppo player arrives next month.


Ditto...same here.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Anyone else have a gaming PC in their setup, with an nVidia GPU, and able to get 4k60 passed to the projector? In nVidia control panel 4k30 is the highest refresh rate option I have available. I seem to recall nVidia supporting chroma 4:2:0 to pass 4k60 through hdmi 1.4, but I can't figure out how to take advantage of it.

5040UBe (I'm using wireless)
Marantz SR6008
3770K
nVidia Titan X(M)


----------



## ht guy

audvid said:


> This is the blackest of the black paints you can find
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...0030032_Supersaturated_Concentrated_Base.html
> 
> It is called Rosco supersaturated black. It is also sold in magician supply stores.
> I did compare it to the blackest paint I could find at sherwin williams - no comparision.
> This paint should be used for the ceiling - especially, if the projector is ceiling mounted. You WILL notice substantial improvement with Rosco vs ordinary black.
> 
> I tried Rosco black on side walls also - it was actually SCARY black.. Seriously, it became like a dungeon! Imemdiately, I changed the wall colors to dark red/maroon.
> 
> Shades of red work just fine in theatre room - for side walls - and perhaps even carpet? Obviously, all black is ideal from Video perspective but maroon/red would work out just fine..
> And, you can use a shade of grey, behind the projector - to lighten the ceiling too - if decorator approves.
> The key is the wall opposite to the screen. That needs to be as dark as possible - again, depending on the length of the room.. Dark red would work just fine (my room is about 27 feet long).
> 
> In addition, you should consider acoustic panels on walls and ceiling. Extremely important! You can PM me if you wish and I can give you details as to how to do so, cost effectively.
> I dont want to deviate too much from the thread.. if you have questions/comments, just PM me.
> Good luck.


In honor of our 10 year-old Panasonic 2000ae projector getting upgraded to the 5040, the 20 year-old carpet and 10 year old paint is also getting replaced.

...and this black is the best! Wow. I thought my ceiling was flat black before. No comparison! (Found it at a local "stage sales" place.)

GREAT recommendation!

Thanks!!


----------



## Oledurt

Stecchino said:


> If any of you have been dealing with stripping HDR metadata (@oledurt) as an interim solution and tweaking the color settings, Oppo has confirmed on their FAQ page for their new UHD player that they're just released UDP 203 can strip HDR metadata optionally for "Projectors and older 4K TVs" that don't support it. If someone purchased one of the fury devices for the express purpose it might not be necessary if you use this Oppo.
> 
> As for me I have spent zero time tweaking HDR settings so far but will finally get around to it once the Oppo player arrives next month.




Thank you I will be purchasing this. That being said I have turned on HDR again, and I find if I use Bright Cinema mode default settings with color saturation 60, gamma 2 and HDR 1...I can see a very nice watchable picture.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robstl

ndabunka said:


> Most of us on here have found that HDR2 is the only acceptable setting as HDR1 is far too dim. There are also a number of posts showing the settings to ensure that you get BT.2020 color and good brightness rather than having to resort to SDR


I have found that HDR 1 is the brightest of the HDR settings. HDR 2 is dimmer, 3 dimmer than 2, and 4 dimmest of all.


----------



## robstl

seplant said:


> Are those UHD Blu-rays made from 4K masters? Pretty sure Life of Pi is not.


Life of Pi was not shot in 4K according to Real or Fake 4K.com Sicario is close, per http://realorfake4k.com/my-product/sicario/, but the site said I should see a noticeable improvement in the picture. Both the Blu-ray and UHD Blu-ray looked great, resolution-wise, but I could not really tell any difference in the resolution difference. I just don't understand why.


----------



## spirithockey79

Stecchino said:


> If any of you have been dealing with stripping HDR metadata (@oledurt) as an interim solution and tweaking the color settings, Oppo has confirmed on their FAQ page for their new UHD player that they're just released UDP 203 can strip HDR metadata optionally for "Projectors and older 4K TVs" that don't support it. If someone purchased one of the fury devices for the express purpose it might not be necessary if you use this Oppo.
> 
> As for me I have spent zero time tweaking HDR settings so far but will finally get around to it once the Oppo player arrives next month.




Yep, just ordered my 203 today. Would be very interested in what settings everyone uses with the 5040. I really don't understand all the 4:4:4, 4:2:0, 10bit vs 12bit, etc so looking to the experts to make sure I'm getting the right "best" picture.


----------



## Oledurt

spirithockey79 said:


> Yep, just ordered my 203 today. Would be very interested in what settings everyone uses with the 5040. I really don't understand all the 4:4:4, 4:2:0, 10bit vs 12bit, etc so looking to the experts to make sure I'm getting the right "best" picture.




don't over think it...put it on bright cinema mode crank the gamma to 2. adjust brightness/contrast/color to taste. HDR 1 on. slap in mad max fury road uhd, sit back and try not to pee yourself 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## lcrenshaw7

Will a Sanus Universal mount work with the 5040? I am using it with a 5030 now and need to know if I need to get a new mount. Thanks for your help


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> don't over think it...put it on bright cinema mode crank the gamma to 2. adjust brightness/contrast/color to taste. HDR 1 on. slap in mad max fury road uhd, sit back and try not to pee yourself
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Well I can't wait to see a faux 4k picture as I just have a PS3 currently. It sounds like there are quite a few picture settings on the Oppo 203 do wanted to make sure I had it set right for the 5040.



Check out my HT & Movie collection @ http://www.blu-ray.com/community/profile.php?u=379734

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rd7723

*Piercing sound in eco mode*

I recently started using bright cinema in eco mode. I was using medium mode. Before the picture is displayed, the projector is quiet. As soon as the picture is displayed there is a constant piercing sound coming from the pj. The eco mode is actually louder than medium. Anyone else had this issue. Any suggestions? Thanks for any reply.


----------



## robstl

rd7723 said:


> I recently started using bright cinema in eco mode. I was using medium mode. Before the picture is displayed, the projector is quiet. As soon as the picture is displayed there is a constant piercing sound coming from the pj. The eco mode is actually louder than medium. Anyone else had this issue. Any suggestions? Thanks for any reply.


I always use ECO mode (in a completely dark room), though I have tried Normal and High Power for comparison. I've never heard a piercing sound. I suggest you call Epson.


----------



## terminal33

achanonier said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> I'm still working on this HDR thing.
> 
> After testing HDR back and forth with SDR, I still like the way HDR looks. (Very lifelike picture !)
> Altough it may not be perfectly correct as regards to function transfer or calibration I like the picture I get.
> 
> But now I'm still debating two different calibrations
> 
> *Setting 1 - *
> Natural Mode Eco Mode
> *HDR 2*
> Gamma + 2
> *Contrast 70* (Yes I went from 90 to 70 because I had burnt skies in Deadpool)
> Color 60
> Other settings at default value
> 
> or
> 
> *Setting 2 - *
> Natural Mode Eco Mode
> *HDR 1*
> Gamma + 2
> *Contrast 50*
> Color 60
> Other settings at default value
> 
> 
> Both look pretty good !
> 
> I kinda like the setting with HDR 1 better (I have more room to prevent burnt skies and it looks a little more punchy in mid tones)


Well I tested your setting #2. Below are a few pics from X-men Apocalypse in comparison to SDR - gamma 0 - natural - eco. To me they all look impressive. 

SDR 









Your HDR 1









SDR 









Your HDR 1









Just for fun I did SDR with gamma at -1.











Sent from my Galaxy S7.


----------



## rupedogg24

robstl said:


> I have found that HDR 1 is the brightest of the HDR settings. HDR 2 is dimmer, 3 dimmer than 2, and 4 dimmest of all.


I still have it off. The Philips player does something call Dynamic Range Conversion with it off. Don't know what it means. Wondering if it keeps the bt2020 without saying it? I honestly don't see a difference. And I can't see me spending more money on another BDP like the Oppo. 

Unless someone tells me that the Oppo makes the picture look like it's 8k I'm good with the Philips. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

ht guy said:


> *In honor of our 10 year-old Panasonic 2000ae projector getting upgraded to the 5040...*


I didn't quite wait that long...just upgraded from my 8 year old Panny PT-AE3000...PJ PQ has come a long way in 8-10 years!


----------



## ndabunka

rupedogg24 said:


> I still have it off. The Philips player does something call Dynamic Range Conversion with it off. Don't know what it means. Wondering if it keeps the bt2020 without saying it? I honestly don't see a difference. And I can't see me spending more money on another BDP like the Oppo.
> 
> Unless someone tells me that the Oppo makes the picture look like it's 8k I'm good with the Philips.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Same here as the Phillips has been great for the past few months at about 25% the cost of the Oppo 203. Apparently some of the UHD disks that were produced have a tendency to be significantly darker & it appears that others are planning to use the Oppo 203 like the HD Fury and strip HDR allowing BT.2020 to be retained without HDR perhaps.


----------



## MaximTre

ana_moo_ana said:


> great to hear, this is badly needed.


So true.


----------



## vivianli

Does anyone uses projector not so top notch? Say about 200$ projector?


----------



## aaranddeeman

rd7723 said:


> I recently started using bright cinema in eco mode. I was using medium mode. Before the picture is displayed, the projector is quiet. As soon as the picture is displayed there is a constant piercing sound coming from the pj. The eco mode is actually louder than medium. Anyone else had this issue. Any suggestions? Thanks for any reply.


I do hear that sound, but not piercing and it is in any mode. This comes only when the home screen of the Philips BDP7501 is displayed. 
I don't think it comes when watching movies or other content, but it is low so may be I did not notice.


----------



## aaranddeeman

vivianli said:


> Does anyone uses projector not so top notch? Say about 200$ projector?


Are you in a wrong thread?


----------



## achanonier

terminal33 said:


> Well I tested your setting #2. Below are a few pics from X-men Apocalypse in comparison to SDR - gamma 0 - natural - eco. To me they all look impressive.
> 
> SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your HDR 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your HDR 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just for fun I did SDR with gamma at -1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S7.


Yes that looks good !

But I've done some more testing last night with new movies...
And I'm really annoyed... While I can get a great picture for each movie it requieres tweaking the contrast for nearly each movie.

The Revenant : you can boost the contrsat to 80 with no clipping and get a great bright picture
Deadpool : same setting would clip severly the skies, so I had to lower it down to 70 to get something acceptable.
Kingsmen : Same as Deadpool
Star Treck : Difficult here, I fell that contrast at 70 somes sequences ar bit too muffled, but anything higher would clip too much in space sequences...

I thought I found a nice compromise here until I loaded Pacific Rim last night...
This movie is my demo disc in regluar Blu ray and I was really disappointed...
PAcific Rim : Contrast at 70 would make severe clipping and gamma +2 just kills the picth black that make the orginal Blu Ray a reference... And the underwater scenes at the end were really lacking dynamic...

So I decided to test the Panasonic HDR-->SDR conversion. It has a range stting to adjust the resulting range.

And what a surprise !!!

I know have a consistent image between movies which is both brightand very dynamic, much more than the std blu rays. Pitch black are back too.
I did a side by side comparison with the std Blu ray using the two inputs of the PJ and I was really surprised.
The UHD converted to SDR bring more details in dark areas and has way more punch in the bright areas without clipping.
I almost feels HDR like . The sparks around the JAeger in the hangar were incredible, underwater scenes were very dynamic.
I switched back to The Revenant, and yes it almost feels HDR, with popping fires and Sun glares...
Only deception here is the relatively weak colors in Mad Max Fury Road... 

I'v ordered a HD Fury Linker to add to the chain in orer to keep BT2020 color space, I hope it will get even better !!

I have one question for you guys : Ther is a noticeable color switch between BT709 and BT2020 in some movies with water a little too green to my taste.
Is it the way it's supposed to look or do I need a specific color calibration to have it look like BT709 ? (PS I use Natural mode)


----------



## aaranddeeman

rupedogg24 said:


> I still have it off. The Philips player does something call Dynamic Range Conversion with it off. *Don't know what it means*. Wondering if it keeps the bt2020 without saying it? I honestly don't see a difference. And I can't see me spending more money on another BDP like the Oppo.
> 
> Unless someone tells me that the Oppo makes the picture look like it's 8k I'm good with the Philips.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


That means no HDR. And all players do that. BT2020 is not maintained in that mode. You can see that from Projector Info screen.
I also have Philips and I must say for the price, it's the best bang for buck in the market today (if you don't care anything else other than disks and may be Youtube and Netflix)


----------



## dvdwilly3

aaranddeeman said:


> That means no HDR. And all players do that. BT2020 is not maintained in that mode. You can see that from Projector Info screen.
> I also have Philips and I must say for the price, it's the best bang for buck in the market today (if you don't care anything else other than disks and may be Youtube and Netflix)


You know, what I cannot understand is why the UB900 firmware does not provide for SDR + BT. 2020 as an output without the need for an HD Fury.

According to the HEVC specs that combination exists in the data stream. It should be a matter of setting the appropriate flag.

If the Oppo can address that flag in the data stream, then there is no reason that the Panasonic could not also do that. It is not a hardware issue.

What am I missing?


----------



## achanonier

dvdwilly3 said:


> You know, what I cannot understand is why the UB900 firmware does not provide for SDR + BT. 2020 as an output without the need for an HD Fury.
> 
> According to the HEVC specs that combination exists in the data stream. It should be a matter of setting the appropriate flag.
> 
> If the Oppo can address that flag in the data stream, then there is no reason that the Panasonic could not also do that. It is not a hardware issue.
> 
> What am I missing?


I guess it's just that the manufacturers figured out the end user would'nt bother and made everything automatic based on EDID.
Th eLinker just does that : it says the display cannont do HDR but can do BT2020 and the player outputs that... Which means it can !


----------



## JCHokie

Is there a consensus on the best "bang for the buck" 3D glasses for the 5040? I don't foresee myself doing a lot of 3D viewing, but I'd like to have the option. Thanks!


----------



## dvdwilly3

JCHokie said:


> Is there a consensus on the best "bang for the buck" 3D glasses for the 5040? I don't foresee myself doing a lot of 3D viewing, but I'd like to have the option. Thanks!


Try these...work like a champ, and the price (shown here for a 2-pack) is half that of the Epson glasses...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWERZN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think that they are also available as single pairs...


----------



## welldun

JCHokie said:


> Is there a consensus on the best "bang for the buck" 3D glasses for the 5040? I don't foresee myself doing a lot of 3D viewing, but I'd like to have the option. Thanks!


Visual Apex sells the Samsung SSG-3300CR which have a white frame, and they say that they work well with the 5040ub. while searching for a black framed version I found the SSG-3300GR on amazon for around $20 for two pairs of glasses, which seems like an amazing deal if they work! The only differences I can see between these and the ones at Visual Apex, is the color and the G in the model number instead of a C. 

I ordered 3 sets (6 glasses in total) which should arrive by Thursday. I will report back my finding once I receive them. Hopefully they work like the ones at Visual Apex. If not I will return them. 

here is the link for those interested... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PYEBZ2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## welldun

Firware update not working...

Good day all, over the past 2 days I have been trying to update the firmware of my 5040ub to the lastest one listed on Epson's website. the version listed is the 108/104. My projector currently has 106/104. I have tried several times following the instructions which call for the firmware to be on the root folder of a USB drive, unplugging the power supply of projector and attaching the USB to it, then holding the power button on the projector as you plug the power supply back in. each time I've done this the projector lights up, makes a churning type of sound and the lights flash (orange and blue) for a few second at first, then just blue for a few more second. after that the projector standby light remain on, and nothing else happens. When go back into the menu and check the version, it is still the same that was there before. Am I missing a step in the process? 

For those of you wondering what the firmware update does, here is a reply that I received from their Advanced Product Support team:
"Hello xxxxx,

My name is xxxxx and I am with Epson Advanced Product support. The firmware update from v1.06 to 1.08 for the HomeCinema 5040 fixed a possible issue that could occur in which the screen would go completely blank when switching memory settings with certain combinations of settings enabled.

Should you require further assistance, please reply to this e-mail. If you have a different support issue, submit a request via our Support Site and we will respond in a timely manner.
Best Regards,

xxxxx
Epson America"


----------



## cdelena

welldun said:


> Firware update not working...
> 
> Good day all, over the past 2 days I have been trying to update the firmware of my 5040ub to the lastest one listed on Epson's website. the version listed is the 108/104. My projector currently has 106/104. I have tried several times following the instructions which call for the firmware to be on the root folder of a USB drive, unplugging the power supply of projector and attaching the USB to it, then holding the power button on the projector as you plug the power supply back in. each time I've done this the projector lights up, makes a churning type of sound and the lights flash (orange and blue) for a few second at first, then just blue for a few more second. after that the projector standby light remain on, and nothing else happens. When go back into the menu and check the version, it is still the same that was there before. Am I missing a step in the process?
> 
> For those of you wondering what the firmware update does, here is a reply that I received from their Advanced Product Support team:
> "Hello xxxxx,
> 
> My name is xxxxx and I am with Epson Advanced Product support. The firmware update from v1.06 to 1.08 for the HomeCinema 5040 fixed a possible issue that could occur in which the screen would go completely blank when switching memory settings with certain combinations of settings enabled.
> 
> Should you require further assistance, please reply to this e-mail. If you have a different support issue, submit a request via our Support Site and we will respond in a timely manner.
> Best Regards,
> 
> xxxxx
> Epson America"


The USB drive must be a FAT format so if it was formatted on W10 it may not be.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Anyone else have a gaming PC in their setup, with an nVidia GPU, and able to get 4k60 passed to the projector? In nVidia control panel 4k30 is the highest refresh rate option I have available. I seem to recall nVidia supporting chroma 4:2:0 to pass 4k60 through hdmi 1.4, but I can't figure out how to take advantage of it.
> 
> 5040UBe (I'm using wireless)
> Marantz SR6008
> 3770K
> nVidia Titan X(M)


For anyone else with this issue, I sorted it out, sort of. My Marantz SR6008 only supports 4k30. That's why I don't have the option of 4k60. I guess I'm in for a new receiver.


----------



## Smarty-pants

welldun said:


> Visual Apex sells the Samsung SSG-3300CR which have a white frame, and they say that they work well with the 5040ub. while searching for a black framed version I found the SSG-3300GR on amazon for around $20 for two pairs of glasses, which seems like an amazing deal if they work! The only differences I can see between these and the ones at Visual Apex, is the color and the G in the model number instead of a C.
> 
> I ordered 3 sets (6 glasses in total) which should arrive by Thursday. I will report back my finding once I receive them. Hopefully they work like the ones at Visual Apex. If not I will return them.
> 
> here is the link for those interested... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PYEBZ2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have yet to buy any 3D glasses but have used a couple pairs.
The thing I don't like about those ones is they don't have the blinder panels on the sides to keep your eyes
focused on the screen. Even in a really dark room, the reflections off the screen light up the room somewhat
and your eyes are distracted in your peripheral vision, and that is why so many of the glasses have that side
panel on them. Aside from that, those glasses look like a great bargain.

Never jumped into 3D because my old projector required buying a separate module for 3D, and the glasses
were expensive, and my kids young enough they probably would have broken them.
Now I want to buy some, but am afraid of spending a lot of money on them and then they don't work or don't look good.
Hard finding the best glasses for the best price. They all seem to have a significant amount of negative reviews
and then you have to figure out the noise ratio of dumb people to people with legit issues.


----------



## gene4ht

Smarty-pants said:


> I have yet to buy any 3D glasses...Never jumped into 3D because my old projector required buying a separate module for 3D


Same here...also was never really enthralled with 3D. However, since the capability is available with the 5040, it's something I would perhaps like to try now. Can 5040 owners confirm that a 3D module/dongle or any special screen capability is NOT required? These are two of the items that, in the past, held me back as well.


----------



## gnolivos

gene4ht said:


> Same here...also was never really enthralled with 3D. However, since the capability is available with the 5040, it's something I would perhaps like to try now. Can 5040 owners confirm that a 3D module/dongle or any special screen capability is NOT required? These are two of the items that, in the past, held me back as well.




Nothing other than glasses are required. Just keep in mind that the 4K enhancement cannot be switched on in 3D mode


----------



## gene4ht

gnolivos said:


> Nothing other than glasses are required. Just keep in mind that the 4K enhancement cannot be switched on in 3D mode


Ok...Great! Thanks! Then I'll put 3D glasses on Santa's list! BTW...I've seen 3D glasses for kids as well...are they a necessary investment...or a nice to have?


----------



## Don Giberson

I had the same issue last night trying to upgrade from 105/104 to 108/104. Second level support told me that there would be a firmware update to address the default assignment of HDR2 to HDR1 when playing HDR material. I was hoping to see that in this version. I am going to try to reformat using FAT 32. On a side note, I picked up my Oppo 203 today. It works well though it locked up after the mandatory firmware upgrade using the included disc in the box. After re-powering, it has been working without a hitch. I originally had the Philips player but the tray mechanism failed and the wireless credentials kept erasing. Image looks very nice on the Oppo. HDR is still a bit dark for my liking but seemingly a bit brighter than the Philips. Oppo sold out of their first shipment yesterday. There was a consistent flow of customers coming in to pick up their units today.


----------



## sddp

welldun said:


> Visual Apex sells the Samsung SSG-3300CR which have a white frame, and they say that they work well with the 5040ub. while searching for a black framed version I found the SSG-3300GR on amazon for around $20 for two pairs of glasses, which seems like an amazing deal if they work! The only differences I can see between these and the ones at Visual Apex, is the color and the G in the model number instead of a C.
> 
> I ordered 3 sets (6 glasses in total) which should arrive by Thursday. I will report back my finding once I receive them. Hopefully they work like the ones at Visual Apex. If not I will return them.
> 
> here is the link for those interested... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PYEBZ2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1






I know this question about 3D glasses has been battered to death. But the reason I bought this PJ was for the 3D as I am only into 3D and only buy 3D movies and the movies that are not in 3D I use a 3D-Bee device that up converts as good if not better than native 3D movies.


Would anyone know what are the BEST 3D glasses for this Epson 5040?
I don't care about price. I just want the best 3D possible. As of now I have the Monster Vision 3D and Xpand X105 and they work fine and I know any and all RF glasses should pair up. But Epson has their own version for $100, are they in any shape or form better? as in less light loss, clearer image, more of a 3D pop out?






There has to be a difference between $19 3D glasses compared to $99. I know a lot is in marketing and name.. Any info from someone who's tested several would be great. As that can help others on here or those who are looking for answers on Google and can be re-directed to this post.


Thanks!


----------



## SALadder22FF

Received My 5040UBe today. I got the mount yesterday. Only one last piece of the puzzle of the stand to hold all the equipment. Install is scheduled for next weekend. To say I'm excited is an understatement. In the meantime the can lighting and painting will freshen up the room.

Y'all weren't lying when you said it's big...my roomate when he saw it: Holy crap...that things huge.


----------



## rd7723

robstl said:


> I always use ECO mode (in a completely dark room), though I have tried Normal and High Power for comparison. I've never heard a piercing sound. I suggest you call Epson.


Thanks for replying.


----------



## audvid

ht guy said:


> ...and this black is the best! Wow. I thought my ceiling was flat black before. No comparison! (Found it at a local "stage sales" place.)
> GREAT recommendation!
> Thanks!!


My pleasure.. Glad you tried it. I have suggested this many times but no one else tried it.. I myself found out about it from another member on this forum. People do not realize that this black is blacker than anything else they can buy.. until they actually see it..


----------



## rd7723

aaranddeeman said:


> I do hear that sound, but not piercing and it is in any mode. This comes only when the home screen of the Philips BDP7501 is displayed.
> I don't think it comes when watching movies or other content, but it is low so may be I did not notice.


Thanks for replying. i had to switch back to medium to get rid of the annoying sound. It is constant during all content except for a blank screen.


----------



## gene4ht

gene4ht said:


> Just a quick update: I ordered the SLB357 on the 7th and received UPS notification today that it will be delivered tomorrow the 12th. Not too shabby for a "special build" item that's not in retail inventory...5 calendar days which includes 2 weekend days! Upon arrival, *I'll provide a further update to confirm it is indeed the correct custom bracket for the 5040/6040*.


The SLB357 bracket arrived on Monday and I can confirm it is the correct bracket for the 5040/6040. I've always preferred the very sturdy Chief RPA mounts and their custom SLB brackets over their universal spider legs design. The RPA and SLB combo make for a very simple and quick installation. Subsequent de-installations and re-installations are equally simple and quick because its design keeps everything in perfect alignment and registration. I was able to de-install my old PJ and install the 5040 in less than 30 minutes. Here's a few pix to confirm fit.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

For those having firmware update problems. Follow the directions exactly and remember the part where it does absolutely nothing for over a minute.

Format it FAT, not FAT 32. You can format any drive as FAT, but it will only show 2GB regardless of the size of the drive, assuming its a drive over 2GB.

I did not think mine was working so I just left it and after a while it started to flash, then turned itself off.

We are both beyond impressed with the PJ. 

Now the question will become what changes going from a $300 Silver Ticket screen to a better one?


----------



## McBadden

Don Giberson said:


> I had the same issue last night trying to upgrade from 105/104 to 108/104. Second level support told me that there would be a firmware update to address the default assignment of HDR2 to HDR1 when playing HDR material. I was hoping to see that in this version. I am going to try to reformat using FAT 32. On a side note, I picked up my Oppo 203 today. It works well though it locked up after the mandatory firmware upgrade using the included disc in the box. After re-powering, it has been working without a hitch. I originally had the Philips player but the tray mechanism failed and the wireless credentials kept erasing. Image looks very nice on the Oppo. HDR is still a bit dark for my liking but seemingly a bit brighter than the Philips. Oppo sold out of their first shipment yesterday. There was a consistent flow of customers coming in to pick up their units today.


You are the first that I've seen on this forum who actually has their hands on the Oppo 203. Congrats! I will be reading with keen interest in the coming days about other 5040ub owner's experience with the 203. In addition to its ability to convert HDR to SDR, the Oppo site gives additional details regarding 4K compatibility. 

"The UDP-203 features support for all current SD, HD, and UHD resolutions, including [email protected], [email protected], [email protected], and [email protected] using various color spaces such as PC RGB, Video RGB, YCbCr 4:4:4, 4:2:2, and 4:2:0."

To those of you much wiser than myself, which means pretty much everyone here, what does this mean for us 5040ub owners?

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Giberson

McBadden said:


> You are the first that I've seen on this forum who actually has their hands on the Oppo 203. Congrats! I will be reading with keen interest in the coming days about other 5040ub owner's experience with the 203. In addition to its ability to convert HDR to SDR, the Oppo site gives additional details regarding 4K compatibility.
> 
> "The UDP-203 features support for all current SD, HD, and UHD resolutions, including [email protected], [email protected], [email protected], and [email protected] using various color spaces such as PC RGB, Video RGB, YCbCr 4:4:4, 4:2:2, and 4:2:0."
> 
> To those of you much wiser than myself, which means pretty much everyone here, what does this mean for us 5040ub owners?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


The Oppo 203 is very nice. I have a model 95 in a 2 channel audio only system that has been perfect. I performed a quick setup on the 203 and the unit rocks. Played some of Lucy and feel this is the best the 5040 has ever looked. I have a Roku Ultra I pass through the Oppo HDMI in port that works as expected. No streaming apps on the 203. Unfortunatley, HDR doesn't pass through the HDMI port but image quality is very good. Oppo indicated that there may be a firmware upgrade to address HDR through the HDMI in port but made no promises. It was basically a plug and play affair with the Oppo. Seems the 5040 likes it. I know very little about Chroma Subsampling but found the following link helpful explaining how it works. Hope this helps.


----------



## MississippiMan

gene4ht said:


> The SLB357 bracket arrived on Monday and I can confirm it is the correct bracket for the 5040/6040. I've always preferred the very sturdy Chief RPA mounts and their custom SLB brackets over their universal spider legs design. The RPA and SLB combo make for a very simple and quick installation. Subsequent de-installations and re-installations are equally simple and quick because its design keeps everything in perfect alignment and registration. I was able to de-install my old PJ and install the 5040 in less than 30 minutes. Here's a few pix to confirm fit.


Intensely joyous about this.

Should be self evident to all that this mounting method is by far the best that can be had.


----------



## Stecchino

dvdwilly3 said:


> Try these...work like a champ, and the price (shown here for a 2-pack) is half that of the Epson glasses...
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWERZN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> I think that they are also available as single pairs...



I recently ordered 6 of these 3Active as well. You can buy in 1/2/4/6 unit lots, and they discount the bigger you go. I don't have a ton of hours logged with them yet but so far so good. Each unit comes with its only charging cable, its own cleaning cloth, and the whole thing comes with a padded, sturdy storage case to hold it all, which is a big convenience.


----------



## Stecchino

sddp said:


> As of now I have the Monster Vision 3D and Xpand X105 and they work fine and I know any and all RF glasses should pair up. But Epson has their own version for $100, are they in any shape or form better? as in less light loss, clearer image, more of a 3D pop out?
> 
> There has to be a difference between $19 3D glasses compared to $99. I know a lot is in marketing and name.. Any info from someone who's tested ...



I have a bunch and will doing some more testing soon between 

Epson - closed peripheral design ($$$)
3Active - closed peripheral ($$)
ValueView - open peripheral ($$)
Samsung SSG5150GB - open peripheral ($$).


----------



## Stecchino

gene4ht said:


> Same here...also was never really enthralled with 3D. However, since the capability is available with the 5040, it's something I would perhaps like to try now. Can 5040 owners confirm that a 3D module/dongle or any special screen capability is NOT required? These are two of the items that, in the past, held me back as well.



Welcome to world of 3D on a giant screen. It's awesome. 

Now that you have the Epson, I'm happy to say that the 3D feature is quite mature and thankfully a bit of technology that generally "just works". On the 5040 specifically it is found that setting the 3D brightness setting to medium or low improves clarity. optionally compensate for the darker image by using 3D Dynamic color mode and perhaps high energy lamp mode.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Stecchino said:


> I recently ordered 6 of these 3Active as well. You can buy in 1/2/4/6 unit lots, and they discount the bigger you go. I don't have a ton of hours logged with them yet but so far so good. Each unit comes with its only charging cable, its own cleaning cloth, and the whole thing comes with a padded, sturdy storage case to hold it all, which is a big convenience.


Where are you seeing them discounted?
Looking on Amazon, I see them in single, 2pk, and 4pk options, but they are all pretty much the same price and not discounted for larger packs. Maybe I will try eBay.

EDIT: eBay slightly cheaper for the 4pk/6pk.
I just have me and the wife and two kids. I may just get a 2pk of the 3Active ones for right now,
and then get 2 pair of the other ones mentioned earlier that were super cheap for the kids.
I can try both and see how they are and potentially buy more later for guests, but if the cheap ones
are fine for kids and guests, that will be a plus. Especially since the cheaper ones are more easily replaced if they break.


----------



## terminal33

I remember when I first connected the Philips UHD player to my Epson 5040ub, it set the output to 4:2:0. I then changed it to 4:4:4 for whatever reason. (Perhaps I thought that was better.) But is it better to just leave it at 4:2:0 since that is what was originally set to?


----------



## gene4ht

Stecchino said:


> Welcome to world of 3D on a giant screen. It's awesome.
> 
> Now that you have the Epson, I'm happy to say that the 3D feature is quite mature and thankfully a bit of technology that generally "just works". On the 5040 specifically it is found that setting the 3D brightness setting to medium or low improves clarity. optionally compensate for the darker image by using 3D Dynamic color mode and perhaps high energy lamp mode.


Appreciate your response and setting recommendations. I'll await your 3D glasses testing and findings, order glasses, and then put your settings to use!


----------



## Derrek

I'm hoping someone can help me here, I've been trying to find it everywhere. When I use google chromecast ultra to cast uhd movies from VUDU, the info on the projector is always 3840x2160, at 60 hz, and sdr 8 bit color, I can not for the life of me get it to say hdr. What am I doing wrong? I have a pioneer vsx 1130 receiver.


----------



## Oledurt

I ordered one of these...my first Cinemascope 2:35.1 Screen. I already own a 110 inch Elite Screen. Looks great so I am excited to get this Elite Lunette curved 125 inch screen.

I'll take pictures once I get it.

https://www.projectorscreenstore.co...690E31FD5445&gclid=CMrskavE9NACFQkMaQod23UFCQ


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## john barlow

Hey guys and gals. I just took delivery of my 5040, as I took advantage of the 200. reduction in price. Picked it up from B&H Photo in NYC. Great store with excellent service and website. Waiting for the OPPO UHD203 to hit the shelves. Not thrilled about the HDR limitations but, I guess I can live with it while regular guys like me wait for prices to drop on 4K native projectors. This industry needs reform. The reason the consumer electronics industry regarding TVs and new formats is in a state of chaos is of their own slick and deceptive marketing. Releasing must have feature upgrades every year is causing a consumer backlash. Haven't the geniuses making these foolish decisions figured out that the consumer is weary of upgrading expensive gear every other year? That being said, I'm replacing a Panny 8000 with the Epson. Hope I'm amazed. Too cold from the UPS truck to mount right now. Tomorrow morning it will commence. any tips as far as mounting or setup would be appreciated. Electronics are as follows. Marantz AV8802A Pre/Prp. 2 Marantz 8077- 7 channel amps. Oppo BD103D. Amazon Fire TV 4K ready media player. Stewart 130" 2.35:1 Firehawk fixed screen. Speakers L/R Usher CP6381's. Center, Usher X616, Surrounds 2 pair PSB Dipole. Atmos enabled speakers, front and rear Martin Logan AFX Atmos enabled sitting on 36 inch stands.


----------



## los seres

Derrek said:


> I'm hoping someone can help me here, I've been trying to find it everywhere. When I use google chromecast ultra to cast uhd movies from VUDU, the info on the projector is always 3840x2160, at 60 hz, and sdr 8 bit color, I can not for the life of me get it to say hdr. What am I doing wrong? I have a pioneer vsx 1130 receiver.


Because of the limitation on the projectors HDMI input (300Mhz) You will only be able to do 4K at 8bit @60hz @ 4:2:0 with Chromecast Ultra. so no HDR (10bit minimum).


----------



## Derrek

los seres said:


> Because of the limitation on the projectors HDMI input (300Mhz) You will only be able to do 4K at 8bit @60hz @ 4:2:0. so no HDR (10bit minimum).


So it's the chromecast that is the limiting factor?


----------



## Derrek

los seres said:


> Because of the limitation on the projectors HDMI input (300Mhz) You will only be able to do 4K at 8bit @60hz @ 4:2:0. so no HDR (10bit minimum).


Or is it the projector? If so why do they say it's HDR capable?


----------



## los seres

Derrek said:


> Or is it the projector? If so why do they say it's HDR capable?


The projector can do HDR but at 24hz. Because of the limited bandwidth of the HDMI input (10.2 gbps) it can only do 4k 60P @8bit @4:2:0. It would need 18 gbps to do 4K @60 @10bits.


----------



## Derrek

los seres said:


> The projector can do HDR but at 24hz. Because of the limited bandwidth of the HDMI input (10.2 gbps) it can only do 4k 60P @8bit @4:2:0. It would need 18 gbps to do 4K @60 @10bits.


Ok starting to understand and there is no way to get the videos to play at 24 fps unless google changes something in chromecast settings that allows that correct


----------



## los seres

Derrek said:


> Ok starting to understand and there is no way to get the videos to play at 24 fps unless google changes something in chromecast settings that allows that correct


Yes Correct. This is the same thing that happens on the Nvidia Shield TV.


----------



## gnolivos

Same problem with PS4 pro. Everything is channeled through a 60hz container.


----------



## Derrek

los seres said:


> Yes Correct. This is the same thing that happens on the Nvidia Shield TV.


Any idea if google will ever let that happen or any streaming VUDU player capable of changing to 24hz


----------



## gene4ht

john barlow said:


> I'm replacing a Panny 8000 with the Epson...Hope I'm amazed....any tips as far as mounting or setup would be appreciated.


Coming from a Panny PT-AE3000 that has served me very well over the years, the Epson 5040 was a "major" upgrade for me in terms of brightness, sharpness, clarity, and color saturation and of course 4K capability...albeit excellent faux 4K.. I hesitated in upgrading to the 8000 last year due to lack of 4K and therefore extremely interested in your findings and impressions relative to overall PQ differences.

Relative to your mounting inquiry, and not knowing your current ceiling mount, if you don't have a Chief RPA/SLB mounting system, I would highly suggest looking into one. It is an extremely sturdy mount and will make life with a PJ extremely simple and easy. If you do have a Chief RPA, a custom SLB is available...see my recent posts.

WRT to settings, as PQ and color are very subjective, I would only recommend experimenting with the settings to taste. You could begin with some of the settings posted recently by owners here who have found favored settings. Ultimately, only you will be able to determine what combination of parameters makes an image pleasing to you. Hope you have as much fun as many of us did during our first days of ownership! IMO, the many pluses of the 5040 outweighs the few minuses!


----------



## Eric_Connelly

Took inspiration from another poster here. Did not like the idea of a mount and it just sitting out. With the front intake/vent had this built today.

Basement is under remodel so its a bit of a mess but it solves two problems. One a great place to put the projector and not bug me so much about getting white and a place to hang presence speakers.

The unfinished wall will be a counter top with bar counter when its done. The header across the top to hold the projector was only $120 in materials.


----------



## gnolivos

LENS MEMORY RECALL EPSON RESPONSE AND SOLUTION

All, important update here from Epson today regarding the inaccurate lens memory recall that we have been experiencing. Here is a copy paste of their response. Please read in detail...

The gist of it is, you should move your lens shift in One Direction only, and never step back for final adjustments. I have yet to test this. 
-----------------

Sorry for our late reply on this matter, we were checking with our engineers.

Here is the reply from the engineers on this matter;

We have done the test of lens shift position memory in the QC process on multiple units.
The recalled position accuracy of the units tested were each within spec.

SEC engineers confirmed that the shift amount between recalled position and original position is within 5.5 mm or less as actual measurement value.

There is a possibility of bad accuracy caused by the procedure for fitting in the screen when customers memorizes the different positions.

As a precaution, when you fit the display position to the screen, you should avoid moving the lens shift in the opposite direction.
Please refer to the attached file named “Epson PC 4040-6040UB HC 5040UB-5040UBe Lens shift position memory.pdf" for a better explanation, and try to use this method when setting lens memory positions.

If you move the lens shift "step by step" to opposite direction for fine-tuning, the moving amount will not be counted correctly by sensor. As a result, a memorized position will be shifted from target, and the bad accuracy of recalled position occurs.
This is caused by a factor coming from the mechanical structure and the position monitoring method by sensor.

Unfortunately, SEC hasn't been able to find a better solution for accuracy improvement.

Thank you again for your patience in this matter.
We hope this helps!


----------



## ht guy

As I'm thinking about the wiring...

Sources
Roku Ultra
Apple TV
Oppo BDP203

PrePro
Anthem AVM 50V

Can I simply plug the Roku and Apple TV into the 2 HDMI inputs on the Oppo, and then take one HDMI out to the 50040 for video and the other HDMI out to the Anthem for audio?

...seems too simple...


----------



## john barlow

gene4ht said:


> Coming from a Panny PT-AE3000 that has served me very well over the years, the Epson 5040 was a "major" upgrade for me in terms of brightness, sharpness, clarity, and color saturation and of course 4K capability...albeit excellent faux 4K.. I hesitated in upgrading to the 8000 last year due to lack of 4K and therefore extremely interested in your findings and impressions relative to overall PQ differences.
> 
> Relative to your mounting inquiry, and not knowing your current ceiling mount, if you don't have a Chief RPA/SLB mounting system, I would highly suggest looking into one. It is an extremely sturdy mount and will make life with a PJ extremely simple and easy. If you do have a Chief RPA, a custom SLB is available...see my recent posts.
> 
> WRT to settings, as PQ and color are very subjective, I would only recommend experimenting with the settings to taste. You could begin with some of the settings posted recently by owners here who have found favored settings. Ultimately, only you will be able to determine what combination of parameters makes an image pleasing to you. Hope you have as much fun as many of us did during our first days of ownership! IMO, the many pluses of the 5040 outweighs the few minuses!


Hey, maybe you could illuminate me with the purpose of the HDFury. Why I would want or need one. I am interested in making sure I have everything I need to finish my theater upgrade which has been underway since April.


----------



## aaranddeeman

ht guy said:


> As I'm thinking about the wiring...
> 
> Sources
> Roku Ultra
> Apple TV
> Oppo BDP203
> 
> PrePro
> Anthem AVM 50V
> 
> Can I simply plug the Roku and Apple TV into the 2 HDMI inputs on the Oppo, and then take one HDMI out to the 50040 for video and the other HDMI out to the Anthem for audio?
> 
> ...seems too simple...


Oppo does not have 2 HDMI inputs IMHO.


----------



## ht guy

ht guy said:


> As I'm thinking about the wiring...
> 
> Sources
> Roku Ultra
> Apple TV
> Oppo BDP203
> 
> PrePro
> Anthem AVM 50V
> 
> Can I simply plug the Roku and Apple TV into the 2 HDMI inputs on the Oppo, and then take one HDMI out to the 50040 for video and the other HDMI out to the Anthem for audio?
> 
> ...seems too simple...





aaranddeeman said:


> Oppo does not have 2 HDMI inputs IMHO.


When I first saw this, I read it as "Dual HDMI Outputs and Inputs."

Re-reading it, I can see it says "...and Input."

Same question applies - Now just the Roku Ultra is going to the 203.

And the Apple TV running through the Pre/Pro and then to a different HDMI input on the 5040.


----------



## ndabunka

gnolivos said:


> LENS MEMORY RECALL EPSON RESPONSE AND SOLUTION
> 
> All, important update here from Epson today regarding the inaccurate lens memory recall that we have been experiencing. Here is a copy paste of their response. Please read in detail...
> 
> The gist of it is, you should move your lens shift in One Direction only, and never step back for final adjustments. I have yet to test this.
> -----------------
> 
> Sorry for our late reply on this matter, we were checking with our engineers.
> 
> Here is the reply from the engineers on this matter;
> 
> We have done the test of lens shift position memory in the QC process on multiple units.
> The recalled position accuracy of the units tested were each within spec.
> 
> SEC engineers confirmed that the shift amount between recalled position and original position is within 5.5 mm or less as actual measurement value.
> 
> There is a possibility of bad accuracy caused by the procedure for fitting in the screen when customers memorizes the different positions.
> 
> As a precaution, when you fit the display position to the screen, you should avoid moving the lens shift in the opposite direction.
> Please refer to the attached file named “Epson PC 4040-6040UB HC 5040UB-5040UBe Lens shift position memory.pdf" for a better explanation, and try to use this method when setting lens memory positions.
> 
> If you move the lens shift "step by step" to opposite direction for fine-tuning, the moving amount will not be counted correctly by sensor. As a result, a memorized position will be shifted from target, and the bad accuracy of recalled position occurs.
> This is caused by a factor coming from the mechanical structure and the position monitoring method by sensor.
> 
> Unfortunately, SEC hasn't been able to find a better solution for accuracy improvement.
> 
> Thank you again for your patience in this matter.
> We hope this helps!


Good research 
Whoever the author is that translated the diagrams does not appear to use english as his native language but the premise shows why some of us have no "error" in our memory settings where others do. I know that my "micro" adjustments were always over ten increments/steps in any one direction and based on the guidance in this document that theoretically provides a more secure base for the positioning sensor(s)


----------



## gene4ht

john barlow said:


> Hey, maybe you could illuminate me with the purpose of the HDFury. Why I would want or need one. I am interested in making sure I have everything I need to finish my theater upgrade which has been underway since April.


Disclaimer: I'm far from being an SME on the technical side of these discussions but will attempt a simple layman's explanation. HDR and BT2020 are features/standards that offer a better range of color, brightness, and contrast. Among other requirements, a display device must be capable of a minimum level of brightness (some order of nits) in order to fully take advantage of HDR's benefits. Currently there are many flat panel displays that produce the necessary brightness whereas most projectors fall short and project a dark image...unacceptable to many viewers. A common solution for some is to turn off HDR at the source device. However, removing HDR also results in the removal of BT2020...which is the wider range color space. The end result is SDR and the rec 709 color space (less wide color space) remains. IMO and some others, SDR and rec 709 produce a very good image...not as good as HDR and BT2020 but never the less very good. This is where the HD Fury enters the picture (no pun intended). This device will remove HDR but not BT2020...in essence retaining the more desirable wider color gamut. For those who desire the wider color space, the HD Fury offers a solution. News Flash! I believe you have an Oppo 103. If you are contemplating an upgrade to the 203, it's been confirmed that the 203 can strip HDR and retain BT2020. Those who have a greater level of understanding, please provide further input if I have misspoken. Hope this has been helpful.

Note: To my understanding, these are interim solutions to improve the dark HDR image. We currently have expectations that Epson will provide an HDR contrast adjustment capability perhaps via firmware. Also, because this is a characteristic of most current projectors, it may be that a better solution won't occur until brighter PJ's become available.


----------



## McBadden

Don Giberson said:


> The Oppo 203 is very nice. I have a model 95 in a 2 channel audio only system that has been perfect. I performed a quick setup on the 203 and the unit rocks. Played some of Lucy and feel this is the best the 5040 has ever looked. I have a Roku Ultra I pass through the Oppo HDMI in port that works as expected. No streaming apps on the 203. Unfortunatley, HDR doesn't pass through the HDMI port but image quality is very good. Oppo indicated that there may be a firmware upgrade to address HDR through the HDMI in port but made no promises. It was basically a plug and play affair with the Oppo. Seems the 5040 likes it. I know very little about Chroma Subsampling but found the following link helpful explaining how it works. Hope this helps.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JYZDnenaGc


Thanks for the link. Looks like it will be very informative. I'm curious if you were able to display a 4k HDR image while playing Lucy or any other 4k HDR blu-ray? Also, have you tried the HDR to SDR conversion? 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Giberson

McBadden said:


> Thanks for the link. Looks like it will be very informative. I'm curious if you were able to display a 4k HDR image while playing Lucy or any other 4k HDR blu-ray? Also, have you tried the HDR to SDR conversion?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


All 4K HDR discs I have tried have played successfully with the 5040 showing 4K and HDR. I still need to force HDR1 mode from the default HDR2 setting the projector assigns. This after my recent firmware upgrade to 1.08/1.04 from 1.05/1.04.

Here are two photos. The first is 4k with HDR enabled on the 203 and the 5040 set on HDR1. The second photo is with HDR disabled on the 203 and the 5040 dynamic range set on "auto".

Color saturation with HDR is higher but not, in my opinion, necessarily better. The image is a bit dimmer with HDR enabled. Frankly, I prefer the look with HDR disabled. Color depth is 8 bit 4:4:4 and color format is BT.709 SDR with HDR off. Color depth is 8 bit 4:4:4 and color format is BT2020 HDR2 with HDR enabled though the projector's dynamic range is set on HDR1.

Though the HDR enabled image appears darker, viewing the sky at about the 10:00 position of the image between the buildings shows a brighter sky. Perhaps with some tweaking, the HDR image could prove better overall than non HDR.


----------



## McBadden

Don Giberson said:


> All 4K HDR discs I have tried have played successfully with the 5040 showing 4K and HDR. I still need to force HDR1 mode from the default HDR2 setting the projector assigns. This after my recent firmware upgrade to 1.08/1.04 from 1.05/1.04.
> 
> I have not tried HDR to SDR yet.


Awesome that you're getting 4k HDR! You have the 5040ub, right? From one of your earlier posts, you had described being "underwhelmed" by the 5040. Does having a compatible source in the Oppo 203 alter your perception of the 5040? 

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Giberson

McBadden said:


> Awesome that you're getting 4k HDR! You have the 5040ub, right? From one of your earlier posts, you had described being "underwhelmed" by the 5040. Does having a compatible source in the Oppo 203 alter your perception of the 5040?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


I am pleased with the projector, mostly by the factory support. I hold confidence Epson will take care of their customers and now better understand the challenges of designing a device before standards have been finalized. If there is an appreciative improvement with native 4K projectors in the future, I always have the option to upgrade.

Please read my previous post as I experimented toggling HDR on and off on both the 203 and projector and posted a couple pictures.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Don Giberson said:


> All 4K HDR discs I have tried have played successfully with the 5040 showing 4K and HDR. I still need to force HDR1 mode from the default HDR2 setting the projector assigns. This after my recent firmware upgrade to 1.08/1.04 from 1.05/1.04.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are two photos. The first is 4k with HDR enabled on the 203 and the 5040 set on HDR1. The second photo is with HDR disabled on the 203 and the 5040 dynamic range set on "auto".
> 
> 
> 
> Color saturation with HDR is higher but not, in my opinion, necessarily better. The image is a bit dimmer with HDR enabled. Frankly, I prefer the look with HDR disabled. Color depth is 8 bit 4:4:4 and color format is BT.709 SDR with HDR off. Color depth is 8 bit 4:4:4 and color format is BT2020 HDR2 with HDR enabled though the projector's dynamic range is set on HDR1.
> 
> 
> 
> Though the HDR enabled image appears darker, viewing the sky at about the 10:00 position of the image between the buildings shows a brighter sky. Perhaps with some tweaking, the HDR image could prove better overall than non HDR.




thank u for the feedback, did u try the same screenshot with HDR stripped? ( SDR BT2020)


----------



## hatlesschimp

Watched Deadpool 4k with the following. 
Oppo 203 with Stripped HDR Metadata rec2020 + Epson tw9300 set to Digital Cinema + Preset 3 (sdr)

Found it not bad for standard setting selections. But Deadpool is a hard movie to get right with hdr on projectors


----------



## exm

Don Giberson said:


> The Oppo 203 is very nice. I have a model 95 in a 2 channel audio only system that has been perfect. I performed a quick setup on the 203 and the unit rocks. Played some of Lucy and feel this is the best the 5040 has ever looked. I have a Roku Ultra I pass through the Oppo HDMI in port that works as expected. No streaming apps on the 203. Unfortunatley, HDR doesn't pass through the HDMI port but image quality is very good. Oppo indicated that there may be a firmware upgrade to address HDR through the HDMI in port but made no promises. It was basically a plug and play affair with the Oppo. Seems the 5040 likes it. I know very little about Chroma Subsampling but found the following link helpful explaining how it works. Hope this helps.


Don't you have a 4K receiver/pre? Why have the Roku pass-through the Oppo if you lose HDR?


----------



## SALadder22FF

I wanted to open up the 5040UBe and just test it out before putting up the screen and mounting and all that. just moved the tv outta the way and through on the wall. I was blown away by the picture quality straight out of the box. Played some Titanfall 2 and got a little dizzy, watched some youtube videos and was more impressed.

Can't wait to get everything finished.


----------



## Don Giberson

exm said:


> Don't you have a 4K receiver/pre? Why have the Roku pass-through the Oppo if you lose HDR?


I don't have a 4K prepro. Older legacy stuff.


----------



## Don Giberson

ana_moo_ana said:


> thank u for the feedback, did u try the same screenshot with HDR stripped? ( SDR BT2020)


Not sure how to strip HDR and maintain BT2020. Would like to try it.


----------



## siuengr

Don Giberson said:


> Not sure how to strip HDR and maintain BT2020. Would like to try it.


On the 203 in the HDR settings use the Strip Metadata and it should maintain BT2020.
203 - HDR [ Auto | On | Off | Strip Metadata ]


----------



## Don Giberson

siuengr said:


> On the 203 in the HDR settings use the Strip Metadata and it should maintain BT2020.
> 203 - HDR [ Auto | On | Off | Strip Metadata ]


Thanks, I found it. Pics are self explanatory. Difference is very subtle.


----------



## siuengr

Don Giberson said:


> Thanks, I found it. Pics are self explanatory.


Did you notice any difference between SDR and Stripped? Can you add the third image to your previous post to compare all three?

I have a 203 on the way, so I'm hoping for good things from it with this projector.


----------



## Don Giberson

siuengr said:


> On the 203 in the HDR settings use the Strip Metadata and it should maintain BT2020.
> 203 - HDR [ Auto | On | Off | Strip Metadata ]





siuengr said:


> Did you notice any difference between SDR and Stripped? Can you add the third image to your previous post to compare all three?
> 
> I have a 203 on the way, so I'm hoping for good things from it with this projector.


I edited my previous post to include SDR vs. Stripped images. Difference is very subtle.

The player kept timing out of paused mode before I could change to HDR. Stripped is my favorite for the couple discs I have tried.


----------



## gnolivos

HDR explained:
http://www.forbes.com/sites/johnarc...next-big-thing-in-tv-technology/#787894552698


----------



## siuengr

Don Giberson said:


> I edited my previous post to include SDR vs. Stripped images. Difference is very subtle.
> 
> The player kept timing out of paused mode before I could change to HDR. Stripped is my favorite for the couple discs I have tried.


Thanks, I can only see some very subtle changes in the shadows between the two images. The overall color looks pretty much the same.


----------



## Bob Furmanek

I've recently replaced my Epson 5030 with the 5040 as I wanted the auto lens features. I'm happy with that upgrade but am quite disappointed with increased levels of crosstalk. While I would very rarely see it on the 5030 during extreme contrast differences, it's much more common on the 5040. 

I called Epson and a tech representative told me there was no change whatsoever on the 3-D specs between the two projectors. But - something is different to be causing this issue. The 3-D image has been properly calibrated and I'm using the official Epson RF glasses.

Anyone else experience this issue?


----------



## Don Giberson

siuengr said:


> Thanks, I can only see some very subtle changes in the shadows between the two images. The overall color looks pretty much the same.


I agree. It is my understanding that our eyes are much more sensitive to luma than chroma. In that regard, a properly dialed HDR display should look amazing. Having owned the Philips, comparatively, I am thrilled with the performance of the Oppo.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Bob Furmanek said:


> I've recently replaced my Epson 5030 with the 5040 as I wanted the auto lens features. I'm happy with that upgrade but am quite disappointed with increased levels of crosstalk. While I would very rarely see it on the 5030 during extreme contrast differences, it's much more common on the 5040.
> 
> I called Epson and a tech representative told me there was no change whatsoever on the 3-D specs between the two projectors. But - something is different to be causing this issue. The 3-D image has been properly calibrated and I'm using the official Epson RF glasses.
> 
> Anyone else experience this issue?


In the 3D setup do you have the 3D brightness set the same between 5030 and 5040?


----------



## Bob Furmanek

Yes, I'm using the same brightness level.


----------



## Valleyboy

A question for those who have been experimenting with this projector: is there much difference between a standard blu ray being played on standard blu ray player vs a standard blu ray upconverted to 4K on a UHD player? I'm just trying to decide whether to ask for a Phillips 4K player for Christmas. I honestly don't see myself buying a lot of UHD discs, so I would mostly just be playing my existing blu rays on it. Thank you in advance for any opinions on this subject.


----------



## gnolivos

Valleyboy said:


> A question for those who have been experimenting with this projector: is there much difference between a standard blu ray being played on standard blu ray player vs a standard blu ray upconverted to 4K on a UHD player? I'm just trying to decide whether to ask for a Phillips 4K player for Christmas. I honestly don't see myself buying a lot of UHD discs, so I would mostly just be playing my existing blu rays on it. Thank you in advance for any opinions on this subject.




Nope. My opinion is don't bother! Use a regular 1080p non 4K converting player and let the Epson do the upconversion. It looks very very good and in some cases can look superb. 

Also this way you gain the ability to use frame interpolation should you decide to use that. I use it for concert blurays and action sports blurays.


----------



## mwaarna

Bob Furmanek said:


> I've recently replaced my Epson 5030 with the 5040 as I wanted the auto lens features. I'm happy with that upgrade but am quite disappointed with increased levels of crosstalk. While I would very rarely see it on the 5030 during extreme contrast differences, it's much more common on the 5040.
> 
> I called Epson and a tech representative told me there was no change whatsoever on the 3-D specs between the two projectors. But - something is different to be causing this issue. The 3-D image has been properly calibrated and I'm using the official Epson RF glasses.
> 
> Anyone else experience this issue?


Other people in the thread have mentioned the same. They had brightness setting on high for 3d and i believe they dropped it down to medium or low to get a much better 3d image.

Search the forum for crosstalk and i'm sure you'll find it.

Also using the same settings as a 5030 is not the same thing. They are 2 different products.

Check:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-128.html#post48741465



Stecchino said:


> *Many many thanks for sharing your findings!*
> 
> Based on this I am happy to correlate your experience. Reducing 3D Brightness to LOW produced a dramatic improvement in overall 3D quality in several test scenes. The decrease in the amount of blurriness or crosstalk in certain scenes in A Christmas Carol 3D and Gravity 3D was obvious.
> 
> My current settings now that I will live with for a bit and continue testing content:
> 
> 
> *3D Brightness*: LOW (mandatory)
> *Color Mode*: 3D Dynamic (helps counteract the darker 3D image)
> *Power Consumption*: HIGH (to each his own)
> *Screen size currently*: 110" diagonal (Epson is set to match)


----------



## ndabunka

McBadden said:


> Awesome that you're getting 4k HDR! You have the 5040ub, right? From one of your earlier posts, you had described being "underwhelmed" by the 5040. Does having a compatible source in the Oppo 203 alter your perception of the 5040?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


Most of us have been getting 4K HDR on our 5040's for a long time now simply by using the Phillips and/or Samsung UHD players. So you do not NEED to buy a Oppo 203 just for that. I personally REALLY like the 4K HDR BT.2020 capabilities on this unit. All my content is from movies so it's all at the 24fps/24Hz rates and I do have a VERY dark room and have calibrated my projector to an optimum level specific to HDR 4K in my room. I can access that setting with a single push of a button and then switch just as quickly to an SDR presented image with another single button push.


----------



## achanonier

ndabunka said:


> Most of us have been getting 4K HDR on our 5040's for a long time now simply by using the Phillips and/or Samsung UHD players. So you do not NEED to buy a Oppo 203 just for that. I personally REALLY like the 4K HDR BT.2020 capabilities on this unit. All my content is from movies so it's all at the 24fps/24Hz rates and I do have a VERY dark room and have calibrated my projector to an optimum level specific to HDR 4K in my room. I can access that setting with a single push of a button and then switch just as quickly to an SDR presented image with another single button push.


Hi ndabunka.

Can you share your settings ? I would be interested !


----------



## Gashi

Hi Guys!

I just bought the Epson EH-TW9300 (6040ub )projektor and have it in a fully light controlled room with matt black colored walls/ceiling and red carpet combined with an 124 Euroscreen framed flexwhite screen.

Could someone with similar setup (lightcontrolled room) share there SDR settings, would really really appreciated it!

Best!
Gashi


----------



## aaranddeeman

Gashi said:


> Hi Guys!
> 
> I just bought the Epson EH-TW9300 (6040ub )projektor and have it in a fully light controlled room with matt black colored walls/ceiling and red carpet combined with an 124 Euroscreen framed flexwhite screen.
> 
> Could someone with similar setup (lightcontrolled room) share there SDR settings, would really really appreciated it!
> 
> Best!
> Gashi


To begin, just adjust Brightness and Contrast using any of the patterns disk (S&M, DVE, or AVSHD). Leave everything else to default.
That is a good start.


----------



## rogermoore123

Smarty-pants said:


> That I could not tell you and I wonder the same thing.
> All I know is with the UHD discs I have, I think they all default to HDR-2 when on AUTO in the 5040.
> The pj actually has 4 different HDR settings, and the manual gives no info at all about what to do with those settings,
> or how to calibrate them, etc...
> The next time someone here contacts Epson support and wants to ask about it,
> I'd be curious what they say the 4 different settings are even for.
> My best guess is that the pj probably reads the metadata from the disc which tells the pj the max/min nits/luminance
> that the disc is mastered at and is supposed to apply the proper HDR mode automatically.
> The problem is we have no way to properly calibrate HDR, so no matter what mode is used,
> if the pj is calibrated with software meant for 1080p, the pic is too dark no matter what.
> Some are content with using the default Bright Cinema settings and HDR-1, but I still think that's not close to correct.


Took me 2hrs to catch up after not reading the thread for a week but - 
HDR1 = 500 cd/m2
HDR2 = 1000 cd/m2
HDR3 = 5000 cd/m2
HDR4 = 10000 cd/m2
UHD encoded at 1000 at the moment. Using HDR1 will clip any value over 500 which is why it is brighter but will lose some fine detail.


----------



## ndabunka

achanonier said:


> Hi ndabunka.
> 
> Can you share your settings ? I would be interested !


Already previously shared in this thread or possibly in the other 5040ub thread. Just search on my prior posts & you will see a LOT of discussion from about a month or two back.


----------



## ndabunka

rogermoore123 said:


> Took me 2hrs to catch up after not reading the thread for a week but -
> HDR1 = 500 cd/m2
> HDR2 = 1000 cd/m2
> HDR3 = 5000 cd/m2
> HDR4 = 10000 cd/m2
> UHD encoded at 1000 at the moment. Using HDR1 will clip any value over 500 which is why it is brighter but will lose some fine detail.


This makes sense as someone stated that the 5040/6040's are around 600-700 when calibrated in Cinema mode and close to 1000 when in digital cinema so HDR2 should be viable in Digital Cinema though I think everyone here is using the HDR1 setting

I am NOT a fan of bright cinema as others on here are and therefore never use it in my HT. Then again, I use mine primarily for movies & have ZERO ambient light complications which may be a bit unique as others appear to use theirs in shared rooms with a fair amount of light intrusion for football games where they need the additional candle power of bright cinema.

There is a chart somewhere that shows the different illuminations that are presented with each individual setting.... wanders off in search of said graphic


----------



## Don Giberson

ndabunka said:


> Most of us have been getting 4K HDR on our 5040's for a long time now simply by using the Phillips and/or Samsung UHD players. So you do not NEED to buy a Oppo 203 just for that. I personally REALLY like the 4K HDR BT.2020 capabilities on this unit. All my content is from movies so it's all at the 24fps/24Hz rates and I do have a VERY dark room and have calibrated my projector to an optimum level specific to HDR 4K in my room. I can access that setting with a single push of a button and then switch just as quickly to an SDR presented image with another single button push.


I started with the Philips but the transport failed and it would not keep wireless credentials. In my opinion and given my experience with Oppo, the added cost is well justified.


----------



## Meshal_22

Is there anyone try a 4k movie on PC ?
I have everything the pc and the onkyo rz1100 and epson 5040ube but i dont know how does it work


----------



## Oledurt

ndabunka said:


> This makes sense as someone stated that the 5040/6040's are around 600-700 when calibrated in Cinema mode and close to 1000 when in digital cinema so HDR2 should be viable in Digital Cinema though I think everyone here is using the HDR1 setting
> 
> 
> 
> I am NOT a fan of bright cinema as others on here are and therefore never use it in my HT. Then again, I use mine primarily for movies & have ZERO ambient light complications which may be a bit unique as others appear to use theirs in shared rooms with a fair amount of light intrusion for football games where they need the additional candle power of bright cinema.
> 
> 
> 
> There is a chart somewhere that shows the different illuminations that are presented with each individual setting.... wanders off in search of said graphic




I am using digital cinema mode with HDR 2 everything default accept gamma set to 2. I have no ambient light in my room. A beautiful picture no complaints whatsoever.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Eric_Connelly

I saw some threads in here about purple screen but cannot find it.

Saw that Man in the High Castle S2 came out so I hooked up my Roku 4K which will play back in 4K plus HDR. Started to watch it and after 10 or so seconds got the purple screen.

Connected to a Yamaha RX-A2030 and it reports 4K @60hz in 4:2:0 which is the same as with my PS4 Pro which goes through the Yamaha.

The interface is fine, it is just the video that goes light purple. Using the same cables as I use for everything else and in fact this one is only 3' long and same cable I used it for on another TV.


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

Upgrading from the 5030ub. Should be in tomorrow! Can't wait to see the improvements


----------



## Smarty-pants

rogermoore123 said:


> Took me 2hrs to catch up after not reading the thread for a week but -
> HDR1 = 500 cd/m2
> HDR2 = 1000 cd/m2
> HDR3 = 5000 cd/m2
> HDR4 = 10000 cd/m2
> UHD encoded at 1000 at the moment. Using HDR1 will clip any value over 500 which is why it is brighter but will lose some fine detail.


Thank you for that. It does make sense based on the darkened images when toggling through the HDR modes.
However I think they do have HDR2 just too dark. At least with the modes that use the P3 filter (Cinema and Digital Cinema).
I don't think I have tried a movie yet that has defaulted to anything other than HDR2. Has anyone else?


----------



## am2model3

I have seen the 5040ub in person and I have to say; it looks great; the projector is really bright; but does it trick me into thinking i'm looking at 2160p 4k? not really. does it look better than 1080p? Sort of. If this thing were 18gbps i might have gone for it; but even seeing 2160p content fed into this projector; i was a bit underwhelmed. If you are on the fence; i'd wait for native. If you have money to burn and want something while you wait; this sort of satisfies. 1080p ftw! pixel shifting technology is cool; but it isn't strong enough to convince me.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Don Giberson said:


> I edited my previous post to include SDR vs. Stripped images. Difference is very subtle.
> 
> The player kept timing out of paused mode before I could change to HDR. Stripped is my favorite for the couple discs I have tried.


What do you mean by "timing out of paused mode"? Do you mean the screensaver in the Oppo came on?
I believe the time frame for the screen saver is 5 minutes IIRC.
You can also go into the Oppo settings and turn the screensaver off while you are doing things like that.
There have been many times in the past using Oppo players I had to do that when it keeps coming on while trying
to calibrate or something similar.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Well, here goes yet another post about 3D glasses (sorry guys).
What I had planned was... I already purchased a couple pairs of decent quality glasses for myself and my wife.
I wanted to also buy a couple pairs for my 2 pre-teen kids, but for now I just wanted to get cheaper ones,
as I am a little weary of them breaking nicer ones, and they probably won't even notice or care if they are as good as the other ones.
So, someone on here posted a link (sorry, can't remember who it was) to some nicely priced ones that were $20 for 2 pair.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PYEBZ2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I was all set to buy them today, had them in my Amazon shopping cart, but now they suddenly jacked the price
up to 4 times what they were. ACK!!!
So *does anyone else know of any cheap glasses that will work well with the Epsons?*
I had other links open on my PC, but then closed them all after I had decided what to buy.
I should have bought them yesterday but didn't even consider they would raise the price. 

Once again I apologize for yet another 3D glasses convo. These were to be part of Christmas for the family
and now I am in a lurch trying find something else and am at a loss.


----------



## john barlow

gene4ht said:


> Disclaimer: I'm far from being an SME on the technical side of these discussions but will attempt a simple layman's explanation. HDR and BT2020 are features/standards that offer a better range of color, brightness, and contrast. Among other requirements, a display device must be capable of a minimum level of brightness (some order of nits) in order to fully take advantage of HDR's benefits. Currently there are many flat panel displays that produce the necessary brightness whereas most projectors fall short and project a dark image...unacceptable to many viewers. A common solution for some is to turn off HDR at the source device. However, removing HDR also results in the removal of BT2020...which is the wider range color space. The end result is SDR and the rec 709 color space (less wide color space) remains. IMO and some others, SDR and rec 709 produce a very good image...not as good as HDR and BT2020 but never the less very good. This is where the HD Fury enters the picture (no pun intended). This device will remove HDR but not BT2020...in essence retaining the more desirable wider color gamut. For those who desire the wider color space, the HD Fury offers a solution. News Flash! I believe you have an Oppo 103. If you are contemplating an upgrade to the 203, it's been confirmed that the 203 can strip HDR and retain BT2020. Those who have a greater level of understanding, please provide further input if I have misspoken. Hope this has been helpful.
> 
> Note: To my understanding, these are interim solutions to improve the dark HDR image. We currently have expectations that Epson will provide an HDR contrast adjustment capability perhaps via firmware. Also, because this is a characteristic of most current projectors, it may be that a better solution won't occur until brighter PJ's become available.


Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I just completed and paid for an Oppo UDP203 player directly from Oppo. I'd been checking in with them frequently since last night and always got the sold out notice until a few minutes ago. $549. + 17. for shipping. I'll be anxiously awaiting a tracking number. They wouldn't guarantee me one before Christmas. That's Okay. patience is something I'm trying to learn anyway. 


Yay!


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

Smarty-pants said:


> Well, here goes yet another post about 3D glasses (sorry guys).
> What I had planned was... I already purchased a couple pairs of decent quality glasses for myself and my wife.
> I wanted to also buy a couple pairs for my 2 pre-teen kids, but for now I just wanted to get cheaper ones,
> as I am a little weary of them breaking nicer ones, and they probably won't even notice or care if they are as good as the other ones.
> So, someone on here posted a link (sorry, can't remember who it was) to some nicely priced ones that were $20 for 2 pair.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PYEBZ2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> I was all set to buy them today, had them in my Amazon shopping cart, but now they suddenly jacked the price
> up to 4 times what they were. ACK!!!
> So *does anyone else know of any cheap glasses that will work well with the Epsons?*
> I had other links open on my PC, but then closed them all after I had decided what to buy.
> I should have bought them yesterday but didn't even consider they would raise the price.
> 
> Once again I apologize for yet another 3D glasses convo. These were to be part of Christmas for the family
> and now I am in a lurch trying find something else and am at a loss.


I love my 3 Active glasses. $40 on amazon


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

Smarty-pants said:


> Thank you for that. It does make sense based on the darkened images when toggling through the HDR modes.
> However I think they do have HDR2 just too dark. At least with the modes that use the P3 filter (Cinema and Digital Cinema).
> I don't think I have tried a movie yet that has defaulted to anything other than HDR2. Has anyone else?


If you have a roku (YouTube is tricky with its encoding specifics so only certain devices can play it), look at into the cave of wonder on YouTube (the real hdr version). It's only a demo clip available right now. Gonna test my full length uncompressed version when my projector comes in.


----------



## hnupe

*Firmware Update Question???*

Hello,

Has anyone done the update? What does it solve? Should it be done?

Thanks


----------



## gene4ht

john barlow said:


> Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I just completed and paid for an Oppo UDP203 player directly from Oppo. I'd been checking in with them frequently since last night and always got the sold out notice until a few minutes ago. $549. + 17. for shipping. I'll be anxiously awaiting a tracking number. They wouldn't guarantee me one before Christmas. That's Okay. patience is something I'm trying to learn anyway.
> 
> 
> Yay!


Congrats...sorta/kinda thought you might be upgrading! I too will be joining the 203 crowd...pre-ordered a couple of days ago.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Nathan Cardinale said:


> I love my 3 Active glasses. $40 on amazon


I have two pairs of those on the way already.
The other ones at the link I posted WERE $20 for 2 pair, which would be $10 a piece.
Kicking myself now for not buying them right away.
I wouldn't mind buying better ones for the kids too, but I am afraid they might break them
and that would hurt a lot less at $20 as opposed to $80.


----------



## EveryGlenn17

Frame Interpolation 


It seems that the option is greyed out for me after calibration. What setting effects this? Is it worth it to bother? I don't like soap opera effects. 

Also, when calibrating, the only way for me to get a good white scale for contrast was with epson super white set to on, without it I lost a lot of the brighter whites. Weird. By eyeball I liked it better with it off.


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

Smarty-pants said:


> I have two pairs of those on the way already.
> The other ones at the link I posted WERE $20 for 2 pair, which would be $10 a piece.
> Kicking myself now for not buying them right away.
> I wouldn't mind buying better ones for the kids too, but I am afraid they might break them
> and that would hurt a lot less at $20 as opposed to $80.


The 3 Active are pretty dang sturdy. Thinker plastic (not heavy though). Love the side blockage to avoid distractions. Pretty sure the Panasonic Active glasses work as well and are like 1/2 the price


----------



## ana_moo_ana

also tempted to get the Oppo 203 & pair it with this projector. I dont think I'll strip the HDR though since Im happy with picture it throws using HDR1 & bright cinema. Might want to wait on the 205 though & see what improvements it offers.


----------



## Bob Furmanek

Thanks very much for the tip. I'll try adjusting these settings and see what happens.



mwaarna said:


> Other people in the thread have mentioned the same. They had brightness setting on high for 3d and i believe they dropped it down to medium or low to get a much better 3d image.
> 
> Search the forum for crosstalk and i'm sure you'll find it.
> 
> Also using the same settings as a 5030 is not the same thing. They are 2 different products.
> 
> Check:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-128.html#post48741465


----------



## gnolivos

EveryGlenn17 said:


> Frame Interpolation
> 
> 
> It seems that the option is greyed out for me after calibration. What setting effects this? Is it worth it to bother? I don't like soap opera effects.
> 
> Also, when calibrating, the only way for me to get a good white scale for contrast was with epson super white set to on, without it I lost a lot of the brighter whites. Weird. By eyeball I liked it better with it off.




I've answered these numerous times but here goes again because it's important ...

FI can be enabled for 24hz sources. No 60hz. So bluray 24hz will allow for FI. I believe that UHD 24hz may also work, but now I forget. 

As for superwhite, I have also done extensive testing and posted my conclusions earlier in this thread. I recommend you leave it OFF. Yes you do get to see the entire white spectrum on calibration discs (arguably a necessity imho). But the detail on dark scenes with it ON gets absolutely destroyed and makes this look like a $700 projector at best on the dark scenes. Plus, you get extra perceived brightness with it OFF anyway. 

Leave it off!


----------



## raymondtrudeau

How much better is the 5040 vs 3100.. The price difference is huge.. I was going to get the 3100 but may save and get the 5040 UB..
Is there a big huge difference between Blu Ray 1080p and the 4k this projector can play day a 4 k disc? 
Thanks


----------



## Eric_Connelly

How much of an effect does the AVR have on HDR?

I hooked up my Roku 4K directly to the wireless Epson box because it would purple screen on my Yamaha 2030. It has no HDCP2.2 and I'm getting tired of the cable shuffle because I cannot do DTS+ over optical and that means no 5 channel for some reason on the Roku, only passes 2 unless DTS+ is enabled and you get audio drops on optical.

We watched Grand Tour last night and if I turn on HDR it pushes into the red so much its unwatchable. SDR is washed out a bit. Man in the High Castle however looks nearly perfect on SDR, and just gets super dark in HDR1.

Output from my 8500 which also goes directly into the Epson wireless box is good in HDR1, its a bit dark but its watchable and no red push.

So before I got and get this calibrated I want to get all the sources that I am going to use long term. The Roku4 is better for streaming for me. A 203 as soon as they open ordering up again but with an AVR is there a difference if its just passing through? 

I'm going to try to go with the least expensive 9 channel AVR I can find since I'll be using external AMPS and DAC unless there is a reason from a video standpoint to get something better.


----------



## terminal33

Smarty-pants said:


> I have two pairs of those on the way already.
> The other ones at the link I posted WERE $20 for 2 pair, which would be $10 a piece.
> Kicking myself now for not buying them right away.
> I wouldn't mind buying better ones for the kids too, but I am afraid they might break them
> and that would hurt a lot less at $20 as opposed to $80.


Wow, I can't believe they jacked those prices up. I must have ordered right before the increase. I just got done testing the glasses with the Epson and they are great! I also have a pair of Hi-Shock glasses that were about $40 a pair and I couldn't tell the difference between the two. Hopefully the prices come back down.


----------



## gene4ht

Stecchino said:


> I have a bunch and will doing some more testing soon...





welldun said:


> Visual Apex sells the Samsung SSG-3300CR...I ordered 3 sets (6 glasses in total) which should arrive by Thursday...I will report back my finding once I receive them.





Nathan Cardinale said:


> I love my 3 Active glasses. $40 on amazon





Smarty-pants said:


> I have two pairs of those on the way already.


Like most of you, I'm looking for the best combination of performance, quality, fit/comfort, and price. Anxiously awaiting findings and impressions from you guys before pulling the trigger.


----------



## gene4ht

ana_moo_ana said:


> also tempted to get the Oppo 203 & pair it with this projector. I dont think I'll strip the HDR though since Im happy with picture it throws using HDR1 & bright cinema. Might want to wait on the 205 though & see what improvements it offers.


As I have the Philips, it was both an easy and difficult decision for me. I guess I wanted the option to be able to strip HDR without investing in a piece of single purpose HW (HD Fury). But the deciding factor(s) was/were owning a well respected source device that will be well supported and retain value over the long term.


----------



## gene4ht

I've been reading some reviews of various active 3D glasses that prompted questions in my mind about their charging ability/characteristics. First, what can be expected in terms of number of charging cycles? Second, are the batteries replaceable? Third, if the battery exceed its number of charging cycles and are not replaceable...then we should be aware that at some point, the glasses will need to be replaced. Or lastly, the number of charging cycles is so high, concern is a moot point.

FYI: Also read in reviews that some glasses contained poor quality batteries that either would not charge or would not hold a charge...would only work if plugged into the charger.


----------



## dvdwilly3

gene4ht said:


> I've been reading some reviews of various active 3D glasses that prompted questions in my mind about their charging ability/characteristics. First, what can be expected in terms of number of charging cycles? Second, are the batteries replaceable? Third, if the battery exceed its number of charging cycles and are not replaceable...then we should be aware that at some point, the glasses will need to be replaced. Or lastly, the number of charging cycles is so high, concern is a moot point.
> 
> FYI: Also read in reviews that some glasses contained poor quality batteries that either would not charge or would not hold a charge...would only work if plugged into the charger.


One thing that I will note, but it is a quirk of the Epson projector and not the Active 3D glasses themselves.

If you charge them fully and sync the with the projector, it will show them as 75% charged. 

However, if you sync the Samsung active glasses which are battery-operated instead of rechargeable, the projector shows those as having a 75% charge as well.

Like I said, it appears to be a quirk of the projector rather than a fault of the glasses.

As always YMMV...


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

gene4ht said:


> I've been reading some reviews of various active 3D glasses that prompted questions in my mind about their charging ability/characteristics. First, what can be expected in terms of number of charging cycles? Second, are the batteries replaceable? Third, if the battery exceed its number of charging cycles and are not replaceable...then we should be aware that at some point, the glasses will need to be replaced. Or lastly, the number of charging cycles is so high, concern is a moot point.
> 
> FYI: Also read in reviews that some glasses contained poor quality batteries that either would not charge or would not hold a charge...would only work if plugged into the charger.


The 3 Active does not have replaceable batteries I think, but I've had mine over a year and they still hold a charge for a long time. Haven't ever had them die. They can do like 4 movies or something like that (haven't ever watched that many in a month, and will charge them in case)on one charge


----------



## sddp

gene4ht said:


> I've been reading some reviews of various active 3D glasses that prompted questions in my mind about their charging ability/characteristics. First, what can be expected in terms of number of charging cycles? Second, are the batteries replaceable? Third, if the battery exceed its number of charging cycles and are not replaceable...then we should be aware that at some point, the glasses will need to be replaced. Or lastly, the number of charging cycles is so high, concern is a moot point.
> 
> FYI: Also read in reviews that some glasses contained poor quality batteries that either would not charge or would not hold a charge...would only work if plugged into the charger.




I have the Mitsubishi Xpand105 (which is the same as the regular x105) and got them January of 2013 and have been using them regularly and they work on this projector and charge well, so next month it will be 4 years of use. I just leave it on the PS4 set to rest mode over night.


----------



## terminal33

raymondtrudeau said:


> How much better is the 5040 vs 3100.. The price difference is huge.. I was going to get the 3100 but may save and get the 5040 UB..
> Is there a big huge difference between Blu Ray 1080p and the 4k this projector can play day a 4 k disc?
> Thanks


I've never seen the 3100 in action, but I believe the 5040 would outshine it in just about every aspect. Having the 5040 for about 2 months now, I suggest saving up for the 5040. 

There is a noticeable difference between 1080p and 4K blu rays, from what I've seen. I wouldn't say it's a "big huge difference," but "impressively different" is how I would describe it. With that said, I just watched Interstellar on standard blu ray last night and the Epson projected a jaw dropping image. But a 4K blu ray of say, X-men: Apocalypse, is still a step above, and I'm only viewing in SDR. I believe I've posted some samples in this thread that you can check out.


----------



## Savatage316

Well I bought a brand new hdmi cable and still getting this on ps4 pro with games that turn hdr on. My pro otherwise and Pc games obviously look incredible. 

Now I know hdr 4k doesn't work on this atm, but as someone else tested with for instance resident evil 7 demo which has hdr on automatically, they had no issues. Just trying to achieve 2k hdr but That is what I get. Now if I turn off hdr in pro settings it's fine, but any you of selections to turn hdr on in a game this is what I get. So it's not the cable. 

Last thing I haven't done is update firmware, but would that really be a cause? It just seems there's a setting within the Epson that is not on or selected. It's driving me nuts


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

Gotta wait for a new hdcp 2.2 splitter to view 4K and hdr. My current setup limits it to 1.4. Only 2-3 days wait wait


----------



## SALadder22FF

I've been keeping up with this forum for a few months now. Anyway someone who has posted their calibrated settings can do a quick post so I can try them out on mine so I don't have to sift through the thousands of posts.


----------



## gene4ht

dvdwilly3 said:


> One thing that I will note, but it is a quirk of the Epson projector and not the Active 3D glasses themselves.
> 
> If you charge them fully and sync the with the projector, it will show them as 75% charged.
> 
> However, if you sync the Samsung active glasses which are battery-operated instead of rechargeable, the projector shows those as having a 75% charge as well.
> 
> Like I said, it appears to be a quirk of the projector rather than a fault of the glasses.
> 
> As always YMMV...


Hmm...that is somewhat quirky. Does this occur with all active 3D glasses regardless of brand? Also wondering if this has been reported to Epson and what their response may have been.


----------



## gene4ht

Nathan Cardinale said:


> The 3 Active does not have replaceable batteries I think, but I've had mine over a year and they still hold a charge for a long time. Haven't ever had them die. They can do like 4 movies or something like that (haven't ever watched that many in a month, and will charge them in case)on one charge





sddp said:


> I have the Mitsubishi Xpand105 (which is the same as the regular x105) and got them January of 2013 and have been using them regularly and they work on this projector and charge well, so next month it will be 4 years of use. I just leave it on the PS4 set to rest mode over night.


It appears battery life or number of charge cycles is something we need not be concerned about...thanks for the input!


----------



## covsound1

well after owning this 5040ub for about 5 weeks i must say i love it. after owning a hw40 sony that was about 6 years old and getting my first taste of hdr4k with a samsung js8500 i never would have thought i would own anything by epson. being a fan of sxrd my path was 4k faux jvc or real 4k sony. i have a 120 inch 16:9 hc 2.8 screen that i feel can hang out with slate1.8 at 6x the price. with the pj i also upgraded to a pioneer 801 receiver and a philips 4k blue ray as i thought it was the same hardware as the panny with less frills. my hdmi cable was a monster black platinum that i liked with its over sat colors and noisy detail i talked about this and got rebuffed on this forum.lol i stepped up to the cinnamon audioquest. that cable allowed the colors to flow but not in a over sat way like the monster with less noise.what i did not take into account is how it improved my shadow detail and white clipping. i say this tonight because in my hast to use the hdfury intergal i bought a rocketfish hdmi hdr cable to connect to the receiver (spending a lot of money the last 5 weeks). i was surprise as i thought it was a good cable. i was loving the picture but felt i would have to upgrade the pj sooner than expected. i was looking at crushed black detail like what you get from last years oleds. and clipping whites.just a harder or more digital picture. well i took that cable out and replace it with audioquest. all i can say is oh my god! shadow detail hdr whites that are not clipped and the feeling of every color out their. i know alot of people complain about the darkness of hdr but to taken into a dark seen and still see detail in the dark is what hdr is all about. note ( i use the customized gamma settings not gamma +1 or +2. epson put it their for you to use . USE IT!)


----------



## aaranddeeman

covsound1 said:


> well after owning this 5040ub for about 5 weeks i must say i love it. after owning a hw40 sony that was about 6 years old and getting my first taste of hdr4k with a samsung js8500 i never would have thought i would own anything by epson. being a fan of sxrd my path was 4k faux jvc or real 4k sony. i have a 120 inch 16:9 hc 2.8 screen that i feel can hang out with slate1.8 at 6x the price. with the pj i also upgraded to a pioneer 801 receiver and a philips 4k blue ray as i thought it was the same hardware as the panny with less frills. my hdmi cable was a monster black platinum that i liked with its over sat colors and noisy detail i talked about this and got rebuffed on this forum.lol i stepped up to the cinnamon audioquest. that cable allowed the colors to flow but not in a over sat way like the monster with less noise.what i did not take into account is how it improved my shadow detail and white clipping. i say this tonight because in my hast to use the hdfury intergal i bought a rocketfish hdmi hdr cable to connect to the receiver (spending a lot of money the last 5 weeks). i was surprise as i thought it was a good cable. i was loving the picture but felt i would have to upgrade the pj sooner than expected. i was looking at crushed black detail like what you get from last years oleds. and clipping whites.just a harder or more digital picture. well i took that cable out and replace it with audioquest. *all i can say is oh my god! shadow detail hdr whites that are not clipped *and the feeling of every color out their. i know alot of people complain about the darkness of hdr but to taken into a dark seen and still see detail in the dark is what hdr is all about. note ( i use the customized gamma settings not gamma +1 or +2. epson put it their for you to use . USE IT!)


Here we go again.
This is called justifying your buck...
Sorry, but if cable improved the picture, we should have seen $3k-50K cable and $10 PJ and other equipment..


----------



## Smarty-pants

Well I found a couple more pairs of cheap 3d glasses I might want to try to use for my kids.
I'm going cheap on their glasses right now until they can prove they can take care of more expensive ones.
However, I really have no idea how to determine if any given active 3D glasses are compatible with the Epson 5040.
I'd love to get some feedback from anyone who knows if these glasses will or will not work with the Epson.
...or please just explain the criteria for compatibility with the Epson.
Please and thank you. 

https://www.amazon.com/Sharp-AQUOS-...=1482035335&sr=8-5&keywords=active+3D+glasses

There are also these ones, but they say they are "DLP-link" and I have no idea what DLP-link is.
https://www.amazon.com/SainSonic-De...6603&sr=1-20&keywords=active+3D+glasses+Epson

Yet another pair...
https://www.amazon.com/SainSonic-SS...sr=1-44&keywords=active+3D+glasses+Epson&th=1

Mostly just want to know if these are compatible with the Epson 5040.


----------



## SALadder22FF

some shots on the wall before I have the SI Black Diamond installed next week. Using Bright Cinema watching DirecTV and Titanfall 2 on Xbox One through wireless UBe. 120" screen size


----------



## covsound1

aaranddeeman said:


> Here we go again.
> This is called justifying your buck...
> Sorry, but if cable improved the picture, we should have seen $3k-50K cable and $10 PJ and other equipment..


well iam really saying the 5040 is good enough to see the difference.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

covsound1 said:


> well iam really saying the 5040 is good enough to see the difference.


The cable will make zero difference in PQ.

There are better quality cables that will carry a high bit rate signal farther but you either get a picture or you don't.

But if you get that picture its the same on every single cable.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Maxed out the size on my wall before the screen is mounted this week and watched some 4k youtube. Here are some pics.


----------



## ndabunka

dvdwilly3 said:


> One thing that I will note, but it is a quirk of the Epson projector and not the Active 3D glasses themselves.
> 
> If you charge them fully and sync the with the projector, it will show them as 75% charged.
> 
> However, if you sync the Samsung active glasses which are battery-operated instead of rechargeable, the projector shows those as having a 75% charge as well.
> 
> Like I said, it appears to be a quirk of the projector rather than a fault of the glasses.
> 
> As always YMMV...


This is NOT happening on my projector with my Active 3D glasses. My 5040ub always shows 100% with my Active 3D glasse. Is sounds like you may have a setting issue on your projector ONLY. Have you called Epson?


----------



## ndabunka

covsound1 said:


> well iam really saying the 5040 is good enough to see the difference.


I agree with the others. Even a $100K projector would not "show" ANY difference. The cable is either (1) Capable of transmitting the signal successfully or (2) It fails to transmit the signal successfully. The are ZERO "quality" difference in the actual "SIGNAL" itself.


----------



## Savatage316

ndabunka said:


> Not a gamer but your entire premise sounds confused.
> (1) You relize that a configuration is not support yet you are frustrated that you can get something (pink screen apparently) but you can figure out how to "correct" it? The pink screen itself could well be the RESULT of the compatibliity problems, right?
> (2) Others testing alternate material content (a demo that may well have been produced COMPLETELY differently and therefore could be supported) does NOT mean that the game itself which may well have gone through alternate design/development will work. It's like saying that a 16 year old cheerleader can do a back flip and since your grandmother is also a girl, she should also be able to do a back flip. It just doesn't work like that in either reality.
> 
> Perhaps someone may want to start a Epson 5040/6040 GAMING thread so that others of like mind could have a single source for identifying potential gaming issues on this projector. Just a thought.


First of all, I'm sensing some sort of attitude from you and not sure why as I'm simply trying to figure something out here.

And I believe you're confused as the person who mentioned testing as well tested the "exact" same demo on the exact same console. So there's no different material going on here as you're suggesting. 

My projector works great thru and thru. This is an issue that I fully understand doesn't work to full capabilities, 4k hdr, but otters aren't getting a purple screen when hdr is turned on within their game. Which I feel at this point is a firmware issue. But there are other gamers here, it's why I posted it


----------



## ndabunka

Savatage316 said:


> First of all, I'm sensing some sort of attitude from you and not sure why as I'm simply trying to figure something out here.
> 
> And I believe you're confused as the person who mentioned testing as well tested the "exact" same demo on the exact same console. So there's no different material going on here as you're suggesting.
> 
> My projector works great thru and thru. This is an issue that I fully understand doesn't work to full capabilities, 4k hdr, but otters aren't getting a purple screen when hdr is turned on within their game. Which I feel at this point is a firmware issue. But there are other gamers here, it's why I posted it


I deleted my original post so you are welcome to do the same here.

The point that I was echoing was one which you had already acknowledge. The PS4 has issues with transmitting HDR in a manner that the 5040 can accomodate. This is a KNOWN issue and the results could be a wide range. Your original post made it appear that you would trying to plan the ACTUAL game rather than the DEMO. Apparently, that is not the case here. Hope you find someone that can help you out. As I mentioned in my original post you may want to consider creating you own thread that focus's on this as you may get better results


----------



## Oledurt

I encourage others to play with customizing your gamma setting with hdr. I used The watchman uhd which is a dark movie. Once you dial in the gamma the result with HDR is in fact stunning. i am in digital cinema mode and hdr 2. With gamma customized the picture is not overly dark, and shadow detail is outstanding.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

ndabunka said:


> I deleted my original post so you are welcome to do the same here.
> 
> The point that I was echoing was one which you had already acknowledge. The PS4 has issues with transmitting HDR in a manner that the 5040 can accomodate. This is a KNOWN issue and the results could be a wide range. Your original post made it appear that you would trying to plan the ACTUAL game rather than the DEMO. Apparently, that is not the case here. Hope you find someone that can help you out. As I mentioned in my original post you may want to consider creating you own thread that focus's on this as you may get better results


The main reason I haven't is I don't fully know the etiquette around here as much to what is ok and what isn't, I figured all questions would most likely be directed and or placed in the owners thread. I'd be all for that but just was not sure if having a thread like that is doable around here with owners threads. 

Right now my main quest is to find someone who has the same problem to see if they either found a solution or if they understand why it's doing what it's doing. 

I just assumed from my understanding that people are achieving 2k hdr, which is what I feel I'm not getting on my consoles.


----------



## dvdwilly3

ndabunka said:


> This is NOT happening on my projector with my Active 3D glasses. My 5040ub always shows 100% with my Active 3D glasse. Is sounds like you may have a setting issue on your projector ONLY. Have you called Epson?


I have not. 

I figured that they had more significant issues to resolve.


----------



## dholmes54

Since I'm only going to use a std blu-rays and player that up converts what does HDR and SDR do,dumb question what does SDR stand for,I know what HDR is(high dynamic range)


----------



## dholmes54

SALadder22FF said:


> I've been keeping up with this forum for a few months now. Anyway someone who has posted their calibrated settings can do a quick post so I can try them out on mine so I don't have to sift through the thousands of posts.


I would like to know that too,one member said he had some a few months ago but I couldn't find them


----------



## SALadder22FF

Oledurt said:


> I encourage others to play with customizing your gamma setting with hdr. I used The watchman uhd which is a dark movie. Once you dial in the gamma the result with HDR is in fact stunning. i am in digital cinema mode and hdr 2. With gamma customized the picture is not overly dark, and shadow detail is outstanding.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


How would you suggest dialing in the gamma?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> I encourage others to play with customizing your gamma setting with hdr. I used The watchman uhd which is a dark movie. Once you dial in the gamma the result with HDR is in fact stunning. i am in digital cinema mode and hdr 2. With gamma customized the picture is not overly dark, and shadow detail is outstanding.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Just be very careful though, that setting the gamma without any measurement will lead to entirely incorrect gamma.


----------



## dvdwilly3

dholmes54 said:


> I would like to know that too,one member said he had some a few months ago but I couldn't find them


Go to the link in my signature...and start there...


----------



## hatlesschimp

Yep, I love the Oppo 203!
The PS4Pro still has a role but the Xbox One S is now defunct


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs dvdwilly


----------



## ndabunka

Savatage316 said:


> The main reason I haven't is I don't fully know the etiquette around here as much to what is ok and what isn't, I figured all questions would most likely be directed and or placed in the owners thread. I'd be all for that but just was not sure if having a thread like that is doable around here with owners threads.
> 
> Right now my main quest is to find someone who has the same problem to see if they either found a solution or if they understand why it's doing what it's doing.
> 
> I just assumed from my understanding that people are achieving 2k hdr, which is what I feel I'm not getting on my consoles.


I do know that PS4 compatibility issues have already been addressed numerous times in this thread as well as the other 5040 thread. However, anytime I tell a poster to do a search on the prior comments, I get a "warning" so I will simply say that it has been previously discussed. If you want to search you are welcome to. If on the other hand someone else has the exact answer perhaps they will chime in. 4K HDR is ENTIRELY possible when the source is capable of delivering the conten at the 24Hz signal level so it is completly within the capablities of this projector.

However, the PS4 may not have THAT particular capability. I think it is ONLY designed to output at 60Hz which is at least a major contributor to this issue. If you read this threads history you will see that some place blame on alternate shoulder. There ARE other projectors that DO permit HDR AND the 60Hz signal but they are MUCH more expensive.

The bottom line is that if you must accept a 60Hz signal, then you also msut send that 60Hz HDR signal as 4:2:0 & 8-bit. That is probably the way the others with PS4 got the correct color. Why don't you ask one of them on one of those threads how they did it?


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

My projector is awesome! Loving it over the 5030ub, quite a big difference. I have a 120" screen and the projector is pretty much as close as it can be (very slight zoom). 

Image brightness is crazy! The colors on it seem so much more crisp. I can sit anywhere now and not see pixels (I'm usually between 8ft and 12ft away). My gf loves it to. Was enamored at how life like things look and thought it was almost 3D looking!

Gonna have to get an hdfury to try out HDR from my Xbox one.


----------



## Oledurt

aaranddeeman said:


> Just be very careful though, that setting the gamma without any measurement will lead to entirely incorrect gamma.




I found you really don't need to change much to get an oustanding pic with HDR i'll try to take a pic of my customized gamma curve to show you. 

If I did totally screw up the "correct gamma curve.". I can't tell. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

custom gamma setting will be different depending on your screen and your taste.the controls allow you to freeze frame and pick points in the picture or the whole picture.as some have stated you can really throw your picture out of wack or get to place heaven.play with the controls and adjust to your pleasure.you can always compare what you have done of the fly to the standard settings. jvc pjs have always used a non standard gamma to get a better picture.(better blacks at the cost of a little crush). hope this stays on this thread. i also must mention the super white on works for hdr allowing you to see detail in blown out whites,it seems to drop the whole curve even into the blacks. sorry about the cable talk i will not bring it up again.


----------



## JewDaddy

gnolivos said:


> I've answered these numerous times but here goes again because it's important ...
> 
> FI can be enabled for 24hz sources. No 60hz. So bluray 24hz will allow for FI. I believe that UHD 24hz may also work, but now I forget.
> 
> As for superwhite, I have also done extensive testing and posted my conclusions earlier in this thread. I recommend you leave it OFF. Yes you do get to see the entire white spectrum on calibration discs (arguably a necessity imho). But the detail on dark scenes with it ON gets absolutely destroyed and makes this look like a $700 projector at best on the dark scenes. Plus, you get extra perceived brightness with it OFF anyway.
> 
> Leave it off!


That's not entirely true. If you're watching a non 4K source, i.e., anything 1080p, then turn 4K enhancement off and FI will be allowed. But you are correct that with a 1080p source and 4K enchancement on, it has to be 24hz to enable FI. If you're watching a 4K source such as a 4K blu Ray, you will not get the FI option no matter what. Hope this helps.


----------



## bigabit

Will mostly echo what others have said, but here is my experience with UHD HDR playback on the 5040 and Oppo 203:

My dedicated theater room is a little large but very dark. It has full light control, but the throw is long at around 27'. My 1.2 gain screen is also over 200". I usually sit in the middle of three rows, about 18 feet back.

I was interested in Faux-K because at 12' back the image on the front row was not the best with a Sony HW40. The Sony did a great job with the long throw but was never a long term solution. Another priority was the ability to play UHD discs solely for the common Atmos and DTS:X tracks not included at times on the regular blurays.

1. It was a little tricky to set up due to some oddities in my system. My AVM60 supports pass through but for whatever reason it took a lot of trial and error to get a clean 4K image from the 203 to the 5040. My 25' HDMI cables are 2.0a but not 18gb. I was able to get things to work by setting the 203 to 4:2:0 and 10 bit color. Oddly this shows up as 4:2:2 / 12 bit according to the Epson info menu. If I set the Oppo to 4:4:4 and 12 bit I end up with 8 bit according to the Epson. But in the end either way when I get a proper 4k signal with HDR the results are the same (no noticeable difference between color / bit settings).

2. The Epson is very bright and the picture is great. At my screen size there is a noticeable screen door effect, especially from the front row. The 4k enhancement helps only a little. This is disappointing as I was aiming to improve the picture for the front row, and the Sony HW40 had no screen door whatsoever (image just didn't look as good as middle row). But it is not a deal breaker as the image seems better in every other way at this distance. In comparable calibration modes the Epson is only a little brighter than the Sony due to my long throw (5040 loses more light).

3. I think the HDR is great. The SDR picture is also great, and brighter in the same mode. If you compare Bright Cinema HDR to Bright Cinema SDR it comes down to your thirst for perceived lumens. I think it's more realistic to compare Bright Cinema mode HDR to Cinema mode SDR. In my room there is little difference between the two in brightness and HDR to me looks more filmic. A few of the UHD blurays run extra dark though and need at least HDR 1 if not also Gamma +2 to get some detail back. There definitely needs to be a better way to change the HDR setting.

4. The UHD discs are worth it on this projector. One or two do look sloppier than the others, the same as a few 1080p blurays look extra exceptional and easily rival the 4k. Not all content and transfers are equal. But owning this projector I will definitely leverage its full abilities when a UHD HDR disc is available. Counting on the studios to keep improving their releases. If I discover some SDR settings that I prefer to HDR I will happily use those.

5. The Oppo 203 has the ability to strip the HDR data but still send the 4k image. Oppo says this will preserve the Rec 2020 color. The 5040 disagrees and shows 709. Again, I'm liking the HDR while my bulb is nice and bright, but will still be curious if this option eventually pans out. Am going to contact Oppo support.

6. The lens memory was a factor for me, but I haven't used it yet. I had two Sony HW40s, one for 16:9 and one for 2.35. This is a much more practical setup. Look forward to the kinks getting worked out there.

X-Men Apocalypse looks the best all around so far, which also looked great at 1080p in my previous setup. But the 5040 image from the UHD disc is special. Overall very impressed (with the projector).

Again, I love the way the HDR looks but when it is working properly the difference is not so astounding that it should be disappointing to anyone if it doesnt work in their setup. The SDR image is really great. I'm glad to have two options for rendering content and will look forward to seeing if either improves with firmware updates. Always looking for a way to squeak out a little more performance in the theater.

So far the 5040 has been a nice upgrade until native 4K prices come down. I think it is a bargain at its price and anyone looking to use it on a larger screen will not be disappointed.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Well I am beyond perplexed and quite frustrated at trying to get 3D going with my setup.
I bought the 3Active glasses so many here recommended. Paired them, or so it says on screen,
but the Epson doesn't appear to recognized the 3D, or the glasses aren't working or something.
I can't get an actual 3D view of the screen, just the funky blurry image that is supposed to turn into 3D.
I just wasted way too much time troubleshooting and now might get 4 hours of sleep tonight.
If anyone has any real advice on what could be wrong, I'm all ears.
I can always figure this stuff out on my own, but apparently not this time. It should not be this difficult.

Perhaps the couple of movies I have on hand aren't real 3D or the wrong kind of 3D?
I tried both Polar Express and Coraline 3D Blu-ray versions.

WTF am I doing wrong?


----------



## NoTechi

JewDaddy said:


> That's not entirely true. If you're watching a non 4K source, i.e., anything 1080p, then turn 4K enhancement off and FI will be allowed. But you are correct that with a 1080p source and 4K enchancement on, it has to be 24hz to enable FI. If you're watching a 4K source such as a 4K blu Ray, you will not get the FI option no matter what. Hope this helps.



If it is not 24Hz and 4k is off I don't get FI. Source set to 1080p and 4K enhancement off with 60Hz for example from my TV receiver will still lead to FI greyed out. But if I understand it correctly thats ok since having 60Hz will be equal or better then FI anyhow.


NoTechi


----------



## achanonier

Hi there
Juste a quick post to say that I have finally found my UHD settings

I use a Panasonic UHD player that allow a very good and user parametrable HDR to SDR conversion (it has a specific "Dynamic Range Conversion" slider that adjust the max noit output of your display).
And in between the player and the PJ I sue a HD Fury Linker in order to keep BT2020 color space.

I've been tweaking things for days literraly and this is for me by far the best and most consistent setting I can have.

I keep WCG with great colors and dynamic and the customized HDR-->SDR conversion brings out an almost HDR feel of the image.

I'm not sure you can do better with HDR engaged because if you tweak gamma / brightness / contrast to get a bright enough image in HDR you simply kill / reduce the dynamic range almost to SDR (which is quite logical as you keep maximum PJ brightness and bring up average brightness to an acceptable level thus dropping global dynamic range)


----------



## little_donkey

Do people here have a Panasonic ub900 or ub700 for playing UHD blurays?
What are the options with a Panasonic for outputting UHD to the epson
How is it with the projector, how is the HDR?
I wanted a Oppo but it cost like 600€ more then a Panasonic UB700


----------



## hatlesschimp

Was a little scared to see what SS would look like on the Oppo 203 but it came up fine on HDR2. Think I liked the Digital Cinema the best. Natural looked a bit to red.


----------



## coolpal

Smarty-pants said:


> Well I am beyond perplexed and quite frustrated at trying to get 3D going with my setup.
> I bought the 3Active glasses so many here recommended. Paired them, or so it says on screen,
> but the Epson doesn't appear to recognized the 3D, or the glasses aren't working or something.
> I can't get an actual 3D view of the screen, just the funky blurry image that is supposed to turn into 3D.
> I just wasted way too much time troubleshooting and now might get 4 hours of sleep tonight.
> If anyone has any real advice on what could be wrong, I'm all ears.
> I can always figure this stuff out on my own, but apparently not this time. It should not be this difficult.
> 
> Perhaps the couple of movies I have on hand aren't real 3D or the wrong kind of 3D?
> I tried both Polar Express and Coraline 3D Blu-ray versions.
> 
> WTF am I doing wrong?


Not sure if this helps but I was trying to compare the 5040 with a sony 45es last weekend trying to decide which to keep, and both of them played my Avatar 3D blu-ray just fine with 3d glasses that came with my Samsung TV.
I believe these are the glasses that were included with my TV: http://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/television-home-theater-accessories/televisions/3d-active-glasses-ssg-5150gb-za/

In terms of settings, I have not touched anything either in PJ or in the blu-ray player (Philips 4k player and PS3)

Oh btw, I ended up keeping this Epson. Wanted to save some $ but liked the overall sharpness and ability to play 4k enough to justify the $1k difference.


----------



## SALadder22FF

This is def. noob question but where do you go to activie the hdr1 or hdr2..I'm not finding it.


----------



## bluer101

I'm on the fence right now on upgrading my Benq W1070. I'm in a living room projecting on a 100" elite screens electric 1.1 gain. 

I like the epson 5040 a lot and the Sony 45. I'm looking for a better picture overall over the Benq. Our viewing is mostly at night for full light control but white walls. Please help!


----------



## gene4ht

SALadder22FF said:


> This is def. noob question but where do you go to activie the hdr1 or hdr2..I'm not finding it.


Signal...Advanced...Dynamic Range

I was initially wondering as well...since all references were to HDR1, HDR2, etc rather than HDR Mode 1, HDR Mode 2...thought I was in the wrong menu.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Well, as if anyone cares, I THINK I figured out my issue with 3D.
I think the movies I have right now are the old style of "Anaglyph 3D" and apparently the newer 3D BD releases are different,
AKA: side-by-side or top-and-bottom 3D and active 3D glasses do not work with the older type of 3D movies.
The two that I was trying to use were "Polar Express" and "Coraline". Both have been in my collection for many years now,
so I guess the newer version of those movies include the side-by-side type 3D instead of the alaglyph type 3D (?).
If I am correct, then we will see when I get more 3D discs in hand. I have a few on order that should get here this week.

Sometimes you just have to figure it out on your own, but hopefully if anyone else has the same issue they can search this
thread and see my report before they waste hours trying to figure it out.


----------



## gene4ht

Smarty-pants said:


> Well, as if anyone cares, I THINK I figured out my issue with 3D.
> I think the movies I have right now are the old style of "Anaglyph 3D" and apparently the newer 3D BD releases are different,
> AKA: side-by-side or top-and-bottom 3D and active 3D glasses do not work with the older type of 3D movies.
> The two that I was trying to use were "Polar Express" and "Coraline". Both have been in my collection for many years now,
> so I guess the newer version of those movies include the side-by-side type 3D instead of the alaglyph type 3D (?).
> If I am correct, then we will see when I get more 3D discs in hand. I have a few on order that should get here this week.
> 
> Sometimes you just have to figure it out on your own, but hopefully if anyone else has the same issue they can search this
> thread and see my report before they waste hours trying to figure it out.


Sorry I couldn't help...I'm a 3D newbie also! I care...so thanks!


----------



## Smarty-pants

gene4ht said:


> Sorry I couldn't help...I'm a 3D newbie also! I care...so thanks!


LOL, thanks. 
It's so humbling though, because I have been doing this stuff for so long, I can set up new displays, avrs, players, etc...
without even looking at the manual 99% of the time. All my family and friends come to me when they have questions or issues with their gear, but now I am way late to the game on this 3D stuff, so it's like a fish out of water experience until I can get this stuff figured out.


----------



## gene4ht

Smarty-pants said:


> LOL, thanks.
> It's so humbling though, because I have been doing this stuff for so long, I can set up new displays, avrs, players, etc...
> without even looking at the manual 99% of the time. All my family and friends come to me when they have questions or issues with their gear, but now I am way late to the game on this 3D stuff, so it's like a fish out of water experience until I can get this stuff figured out.


Haha....same here...just call me Smarty-pants jr.


----------



## gnolivos

lol ! Those 3D movies like Coraline used analgyph glasses. They require those colored cheap glasses and look terrible. What you want is the newer 3D movies that state Bluray3d on the cover. Completely different technologies.


----------



## gnolivos

Pro tip: To focus, Click on the Pattern button to display pattern on screen. The pattern is displayed with 4K enhancement OFF, and the individual pixels are distinguishable this way, making it so much easier to perfectly focus.


----------



## little_donkey

Is the Panasonic UB900 or 700 a good combi with this projector for UHD blurays?
I don't want to pay 600€ more for an Oppo.

Will I get HDR with the Pana, and no banding?


----------



## NoTechi

*HDFury Linker XBox One S experience*

I just got the HDFury Linker and started to play with it a bit together with the XBox One S and the 6040ube. I am not there yet but i would like to share what I have experienced so far. If someone is interested I took some screeshots of the projector and linker info and posted them on a German forum. Screenshots are also in German but you will get the point. HIFI-Forum link

Outcome so far:
1. Xbox shows full compatibility to 4k and HDR content with the linker directly connected to the wireless box (I got a receiver in between but its set to not upscale)
2. no HDR with the game I tested (FF15). HDR is not even sent from the XBox but from what I have read FF15 should be in HDR
3. there is something strange going on having BT709 as input and BT2020 as output from the linker. That sounds to me kinda impossible beside "faking" the signal to BT2020 even though the color space is still BT709
3. Both games and Netflix are 8bit. This was to be expected since the projector is limited to 8bit with 60Hz. Interesting to see is that even if 10/12 bit is sent to the projector it seems to "downscale" it to 8bit but plays well. In other words the bandwidth of the wireless connection can't be the limiting factor since the 10/12bit get transmitted (or the wireless box is already downscaling it but I doubt that). It's the HDMI chip itself or better Epson who restricted it to 8bit at 60Hz. At least the wireless chip was reported to be able to handle 10/12bit at 60Hz.
4. With Netflix I get BT2020 and HDR2. I am just curios if this even makes sense at 8bit

I am going to play more around with the Linker settings and I did no projector calibration at all with the linker in between so far. But not looking at the numbers and just from the first look with linker but without calibration it did not look impressive at all (or even worse) with 8bit even with BT2020 and HDR. It comes all back to streaming like Netflix UHD content and gaming is in 60Hz and thats limited to 8bit by the projector 

NoTechi


----------



## ndabunka

little_donkey said:


> Is the Panasonic UB900 or 700 a good combi with this projector for UHD blurays?
> I don't want to pay 600€ more for an Oppo.
> 
> Will I get HDR with the Pana, and no banding?


You don't even have to spend the $'s for either of the pannys as the Phillips is available for around $150 and delivers 4K HDR on UHD titles. It doesn't "strip" the HDR header information like the Oppo 203 can do but it's also a fraction of the cost. I think the 203 also has an issue with red-push when stripping HDR making it essentially useless for that function until Oppo corrects it. You will have to change the HDR on the 5040 to HDR1 instead of HDR2 but that's prety much it unless you want to fine tune the other projector settings as others have outlined here.


----------



## spirithockey79

Smarty-pants said:


> LOL, thanks.
> 
> It's so humbling though, because I have been doing this stuff for so long, I can set up new displays, avrs, players, etc...
> 
> without even looking at the manual 99% of the time. All my family and friends come to me when they have questions or issues with their gear, but now I am way late to the game on this 3D stuff, so it's like a fish out of water experience until I can get this stuff figured out.




Appreciate the info on the 3D glasses as I'm looking at returning the Samsung 5150 for these or the Xpand 3D glasses. Don't really care for the Samsung's. 

Separate question for you re: Oppo 203 with 5040. I noticed you were a beta tester and posted about your experience with HDR stripping. I'm guessing you've seen recent posts in the Oppo thread about this where it may not actually be passing WCG 2020 but instead just passing 709. Interested in your recent thoughts on this based on your experiences. Do you still notice a difference? Is it still very good? Do you let Oppo handle the conversion or the pj? What about impressions I'm general with the 5040?

My 203 should arrive on Wed. I've never had an Oppo (use PS4 currently) and have never seen a 4k disc on this pj yet - just upscaled Blu-ray. I have a 110" 2.35 screen and love the picture I get currently (basic cal via S&M, not professional). I'd be interested in what settings you are using with the 203 (I.e Auto, Direct, 4:4:4, 4:2:2, etc). 

Thanks in advance for any feedback!



Check out my HT & Movie collection @ http://www.blu-ray.com/community/profile.php?u=379734

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## blackbelt

gnolivos said:


> Pro tip: To focus, Click on the Pattern button to display pattern on screen. The pattern is displayed with 4K enhancement OFF, and the individual pixels are distinguishable this way, making it so much easier to perfectly focus.


Gonna give this a try.


----------



## Stecchino

gene4ht said:


> Like most of you, I'm looking for the best combination of performance, quality, fit/comfort, and price. Anxiously awaiting findings and impressions from you guys before pulling the trigger.


I posted my comparisons of 4 sets of 3D glasses here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3...d-glasses-4-models-compared.html#post49131769

Just sharing here as my projector is also the 5040 and glasses came up a bunch recently.


----------



## Smarty-pants

spirithockey79 said:


> Appreciate the info on the 3D glasses as I'm looking at returning the Samsung 5150 for these or the Xpand 3D glasses. Don't really care for the Samsung's.
> 
> Separate question for you re: Oppo 203 with 5040. I noticed you were a beta tester and posted about your experience with HDR stripping. I'm guessing you've seen recent posts in the Oppo thread about this where it may not actually be passing WCG 2020 but instead just passing 709. Interested in your recent thoughts on this based on your experiences. Do you still notice a difference? Is it still very good? Do you let Oppo handle the conversion or the pj? What about impressions I'm general with the 5040?
> 
> My 203 should arrive on Wed. I've never had an Oppo (use PS4 currently) and have never seen a 4k disc on this pj yet - just upscaled Blu-ray. I have a 110" 2.35 screen and love the picture I get currently (basic cal via S&M, not professional). I'd be interested in what settings you are using with the 203 (I.e Auto, Direct, 4:4:4, 4:2:2, etc).
> 
> Thanks in advance for any feedback!



Most of those questions can be a mixed bag of nuts because you can go in different directions with different things.
I haven't really played much with Strip Metadata feature of the 203 lately, but...
I know it works and is also still a work in progress. I don't really see any major red push going to the 5040,
but this could have changed in the last few fw revisions, I'm not really sure.
I truly have confidence that Oppo will get it sorted out soon. You can be the judge for yourself when you get it and try it out.
(I don't think the bt2020 flag is false though. That is just people talking out of the wrong end of their body.)

Generally I let Oppo do the heavy lifting with upscaling, but again this can be tricky since the 5040 will be doing
conversion no matter what since it's not true 4K. I would try things both ways in your own setup and see what you like better.
Different ways of sending standard Blu-ray content would be Source Direct, or different iteration of Deep Color and Color Space along
with Custom 1080p, or scale it to 4K. Both Oppo and Epson have great scaling so one really isn't better than the other.
At one time, I think I thought sending Blu-ray at 1080p to the Epson looked better, but that is no official statement.
However for UHD Blu-ray I pretty much just send Source Direct.

One good thing about the Oppo is that the AUTO settings are very good. You can't really go wrong using them.
Since the Epson is limited on what it can accept, the Oppo receives the proper metadata for the Epson and sends the proper signals.
You will love what UHD looks like with the Epson. The darkness of HDR can be calibrated somewhat,
but try it with and without and decide for yourself.
Personally I tend to watch bright UHD content WITH HDR and darker movies WITHOUT HDR.
With the way I do stuff, and testing things and whatnot, I am always changing stuff, so my settings are a bit of a moving target.


----------



## terminal33

bluer101 said:


> I'm on the fence right now on upgrading my Benq W1070. I'm in a living room projecting on a 100" elite screens electric 1.1 gain.
> 
> I like the epson 5040 a lot and the Sony 45. I'm looking for a better picture overall over the Benq. Our viewing is mostly at night for full light control but white walls. Please help!


You will get a drastic upgrade in picture quality with the Epson. I had the W1070 as well and was hesitant on the Epson because I wasn't sure if it would be worth it. But after a few minutes with the Epson, I knew I couldn't go back. You will notice the difference in brightness and clarity. I can actually watch Directv with lights on, whereas before it would have to be somewhat dim with the W1070. The colors pop and the 1080p blu rays look incredible upscaled. 4K blu rays obviously look the best, my favorite so far is X-men: Apocalypse. I watched a few 3D blu rays as well and it is simply impressive. Anyway, I've posted some pics in this forum. (I may have even posted some comparison pics with the BenQ.) My suggestion is to get off the fence and get the Epson.  (Sorry, I can't comment on the Sony.)


----------



## bluer101

terminal33 said:


> You will get a drastic upgrade in picture quality with the Epson. I had the W1070 as well and was hesitant on the Epson because I wasn't sure if it would be worth it. But after a few minutes with the Epson, I knew I couldn't go back. You will notice the difference in brightness and clarity. I can actually watch Directv with lights on, whereas before it would have to be somewhat dim with the W1070. The colors pop and the 1080p blu rays look incredible upscaled. 4K blu rays obviously look the best, my favorite so far is X-men: Apocalypse. I watched a few 3D blu rays as well and it is simply impressive. Anyway, I've posted some pics in this forum. (I may have even posted some comparison pics with the BenQ.) My suggestion is to get off the fence and get the Epson.  (Sorry, I can't comment on the Sony.)


Thank you for the advice. I'm going to look back to see if I can find some pictures. 

The main drawback is the price of course. But if it's really that good then I might make the jump. Also for the lens memory for my next AT 2.35 screen.


----------



## gnolivos

Maybe I've just gotten used to this projector, but I'm now finding 24p content motion way more acceptable. What gives. Huh?

Also I upgraded from PS3 to PS4pro recently. Don't think that has anything to do with it. But who knows.


----------



## DireWolf08

I must say, I have not done any drastic color adjustments, but I am really enjoying the picture quality on this projector. I am using a 110" ALR screen (material purchased from Carl's Place). All I did was set the color to Cinema mode and bulb brightness on Eco. Contrast and overall brightness are great. Image sharpness are outstanding. I have not been able to test 4K or HDR capabilities yet as I don't have a capable player or AVR yet. 

If I _had_ to complain about something, I do see some minor banding on streaming sources (e.g. FireTV, both content and menus) and I have noted some minor, intermittent motion jumpiness on Blu-Ray movies. Otherwise, looks beautiful!


----------



## lcrenshaw7

Has anyone tried the Roku Ultra and been able to get 4K HDR working on Netflix or VUDU? Was wanting to get one for my 5040 but want to make sure it will work


----------



## little_donkey

ndabunka said:


> You don't even have to spend the $'s for either of the pannys as the Phillips is available for around and delivers 4K HDR on UHD titles. It doesn't "strip" the HDR header information like the Oppo 203 can do but it's also a fraction of the cost. I think the 203 also has an issue with red-push when stripping HDR making it essentially useless for that function until Oppo corrects it. You will have to change the HDR on the 5040 to HDR1 instead of HDR2 but that's prety much it unless you want to fine tune the other projector settings as others have outlined here.


Thanks for the reply
Problem is that for some weird reason the Philips uhd player is not available in europe, or I can't find it.
So its samsung, Panasonic or Oppo.

Seems the Panasonic outputs uhd bluray only in 4:4:4 12bit so I think I will have problems playing UHD with hdr on the epson or am I wrong?


----------



## ndabunka

little_donkey said:


> Thanks for the reply
> Problem is that for some weird reason the Philips uhd player is not available in europe, or I can't find it.
> So its samsung, Panasonic or Oppo.
> 
> Seems the Panasonic outputs uhd bluray only in 4:4:4 12bit so I think I will have problems playing UHD with hdr on the epson or am I wrong?


AH, I don't think we knew your location as it's not displayed in your profile or avatar signature so no issue there. The Pana and Samsungs are your only options. The Samssung with old fimrware will need to be updated to the latest frimware in order for it to be used so if you do buy one of those (likely around 150-200GBP) then make CERTAIN you update the firmware before using it.

Others have stated here in this thread or the other 5040 thread that the Panny's output is not an issue as the projector then converts the 12 4:4:4 to 10-bit 4:2:2 (I think) which IS a valid format for the Epson. Of course, this is all in the 24Hz range as ALL the dedicated UHD players conform to that signal. Ignore any members who may try to take this conversation into the 60Hz realm as it is not applicable to the UHD players themselves but is rather, an issue realated to the individual streaming options which are more controlled by the providers of those streaming services than they are the formatting of the UHD disk content itself. Hope this helps!


----------



## Everdog

NoTechi said:


> I just got the HDFury Linker and started to play with it a bit together with the XBox One S and the 6040ube. I am not there yet but i would like to share what I have experienced so far. If someone is interested I took some screeshots of the projector and linker info and posted them on a German forum. Screenshots are also in German but you will get the point. HIFI-Forum link
> 
> Outcome so far:
> 1. Xbox shows full compatibility to 4k and HDR content with the linker directly connected to the wireless box (I got a receiver in between but its set to not upscale)
> 2. no HDR with the game I tested (FF15). HDR is not even sent from the XBox but from what I have read FF15 should be in HDR
> 3. there is something strange going on having BT709 as input and BT2020 as output from the linker. That sounds to me kinda impossible beside "faking" the signal to BT2020 even though the color space is still BT709
> 3. Both games and Netflix are 8bit. This was to be expected since the projector is limited to 8bit with 60Hz. Interesting to see is that even if 10/12 bit is sent to the projector it seems to "downscale" it to 8bit but plays well. In other words the bandwidth of the wireless connection can't be the limiting factor since the 10/12bit get transmitted (or the wireless box is already downscaling it but I doubt that). It's the HDMI chip itself or better Epson who restricted it to 8bit at 60Hz. At least the wireless chip was reported to be able to handle 10/12bit at 60Hz.
> 4. With Netflix I get BT2020 and HDR2. I am just curios if this even makes sense at 8bit
> 
> I am going to play more around with the Linker settings and I did no projector calibration at all with the linker in between so far. But not looking at the numbers and just from the first look with linker but without calibration it did not look impressive at all (or even worse) with 8bit even with BT2020 and HDR. It comes all back to streaming like Netflix UHD content and gaming is in 60Hz and thats limited to 8bit by the projector
> 
> NoTechi



Thank you for all of your work on this. 
I have the UBe and was planning on one day getting the HDLinker Fury if it helps. I've been waiting for others to give it a try and do all the hard stuff in advance.


----------



## Valleyboy

Perhaps someone has had the same problem and can help me with this. When I stream 1080p content from my Roku 4 (via Vudu or Netflix) to my 5040, the picture is jittery. And it's not the internet because we have ultra high speed and when I stream 4k to the projector from Netflix it looks terrific. Do I have something set wrong?


----------



## bighernan

*5040ub locks up*

Hey everyone. 

Recent upgrade from a Optoma HD25-LV to the Epson 5040UB. What a difference! The picture is not only brighter, but way more punchier colors and the detail improvement is amazing. 

Anyway, ran into an issue last night that I am able to replicate every time. I stored 3 different custom settings/modes on the projector. One using Bright Cinema, one using Digital Cinema, and one using Neutral. Basically the projector locks up, doesn't throw an image, and is unresponsive whenever i try to use the Neutral mode, or when i switch away from the neutral mode. the only thing "special" about my Neutral setting is the iris is closed down to -10. just putting it here to see if anybody else can replicate this issue or if its limited to mine.


----------



## ndabunka

bighernan said:


> Hey everyone.
> 
> Recent upgrade from a Optoma HD25-LV to the Epson 5040UB. What a difference! The picture is not only brighter, but way more punchier colors and the detail improvement is amazing.
> 
> Anyway, ran into an issue last night that I am able to replicate every time. I stored 3 different custom settings/modes on the projector. One using Bright Cinema, one using Digital Cinema, and one using Neutral. Basically the projector locks up, doesn't throw an image, and is unresponsive whenever i try to use the Neutral mode, or when i switch away from the neutral mode. the only thing "special" about my Neutral setting is the iris is closed down to -10. just putting it here to see if anybody else can replicate this issue or if its limited to mine.
> 
> https://youtu.be/GUq18maMFzE


I believe that your issue is related to memory settings rather than the neutral mode itself and others have run into this so... search this and the other 5040 thread to find others who had similar issues. You can simply type in a logical phrase like "lock up" and find a large number of posts related to 5040s locking up. Hope this helps.


----------



## gnolivos

bighernan said:


> Hey everyone.
> 
> 
> 
> Recent upgrade from a Optoma HD25-LV to the Epson 5040UB. What a difference! The picture is not only brighter, but way more punchier colors and the detail improvement is amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, ran into an issue last night that I am able to replicate every time. I stored 3 different custom settings/modes on the projector. One using Bright Cinema, one using Digital Cinema, and one using Neutral. Basically the projector locks up, doesn't throw an image, and is unresponsive whenever i try to use the Neutral mode, or when i switch away from the neutral mode. the only thing "special" about my Neutral setting is the iris is closed down to -10. just putting it here to see if anybody else can replicate this issue or if its limited to mine.
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/GUq18maMFzE




Known major issue. I reported this one first. Do you have latest Epson firmware? They claim to have fixed it. I upgraded and it seems to have fixed it for me. One other member here however claims to continue having issues. 

If you upgraded and still have lock ups PLEASE CALL EPSON SUPPORT ASAP. This is a number one priority issue for them and would likely want to hear your particular story and setup.


----------



## bighernan

gnolivos said:


> Known major issue. I reported this one first. Do you have latest Epson firmware? They claim to have fixed it. I upgraded and it seems to have fixed it for me. One other member here however claims to continue having issues.
> 
> If you upgraded and still have lock ups PLEASE CALL EPSON SUPPORT ASAP. This is a number one priority issue for them and would likely want to hear your particular story and setup.


gnolivos thanks for the note. I tried to search for it and couldn't find anything but this thread is a bit long and admit to skipping a few pages here and there as i read through it.

Anyway, will try to upgrade firmware when i get home tonight and will let you know if it solves it. if not, Ill be sure to contact epson.


----------



## dvdwilly3

bighernan said:


> gnolivos thanks for the note. I tried to search for it and couldn't find anything but this thread is a bit long and admit to skipping a few pages here and there as i read through it.
> 
> Anyway, will try to upgrade firmware when i get home tonight and will let you know if it solves it. if not, Ill be sure to contact Epson.


CORRECTION--this WAS the solution. I just tried the link and it is dead. You will have to contact Epson. They only seem to leave the updates up fpr a limited amount of time...sorry. At least you can reference the update file...

This was the resolution for me and at least some others...you are looking for the update binary ending in ".104"...



Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Haymarket, VA (metro DC)
Posts: 679
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 455 Post(s)
Liked: 259
For those who may have this issue...

I got an email yesterday from R. Marquez at Epson with a link to the firmware update.

http://download2.ebz.epson.net/dsc/v..._t5108_104.bin

I went to the web page and downloaded the .bin file, copied it to USB, and installed it.


----------



## gene4ht

Stecchino said:


> I posted my comparisons of 4 sets of 3D glasses here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3...d-glasses-4-models-compared.html#post49131769
> 
> Just sharing here as my projector is also the 5040 and glasses came up a bunch recently.


Excellent, thorough, and helpful review! Thanks!


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Does anyone else get a slight hum when viewing 4K content at 60hz? Noticed with my gaming PC at 4K 60hz.


----------



## ndabunka

bighernan said:


> gnolivos thanks for the note. I tried to search for it and couldn't find anything but this thread is a bit long and admit to skipping a few pages here and there as i read through it.
> 
> Anyway, will try to upgrade firmware when i get home tonight and will let you know if it solves it. if not, Ill be sure to contact epson.


You do not have to search that way (page by page). There is a SEARCH utility/application at the top right hand corner of this thread that says "SEARCH THIS THREAD". Click on that and enter the words..
LOCK UP

the search feature will then show you ONLY the POSTS in this thread that have those EXACT words in it. That ways you can read only those post and not have to search through EVERY post in here


----------



## TKNice

Hey guys,

I'm very interested in the 6040 but it looks like there are currently only two places to buy it online. Why is this? Is it because it's aimed at the custom install market? Will it become more popular?


----------



## ndabunka

TKNice said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm very interested in the 6040 but it looks like there are currently only two places to buy it online. Why is this? Is it because it's aimed at the custom install market? Will it become more popular?


The 6040ub is designated as a model that can be calibrated so it is typically only sold by higher end retailers who posses such abilities rather than by "box mover" websites. However, there are a number of vendors here on this forum that can sell you one and can help put you in touch with qualified individuals capable of providing calibration services should you desire


----------



## TKNice

ndabunka said:


> The 6040ub is designated as a model that can be calibrated so it is typically only sold by higher end retailers who posses such abilities rather than by "box mover" websites. However, there are a number of vendors here on this forum that can sell you one and can help put you in touch with qualified individuals capable of providing calibration services should you desire


thanks ndabunka. I'm not looking to buy until a bonus comes in march, so I've got time. Definitely got to have the black and I like the idea that it comes with a mount. My current mount has some shortcomings. Would you say the 6040 comes calibrated the same out of box as the 5040 and it's as friendly for user calibrations? I'm not likely to get it professionally calibrated unless it's really necessary.


----------



## spirithockey79

Smarty-pants said:


> Most of those questions can be a mixed bag of nuts because you can go in different directions with different things.
> 
> I haven't really played much with Strip Metadata feature of the 203 lately, but...
> 
> I know it works and is also still a work in progress. I don't really see any major red push going to the 5040,
> 
> but this could have changed in the last few fw revisions, I'm not really sure.
> 
> I truly have confidence that Oppo will get it sorted out soon. You can be the judge for yourself when you get it and try it out.
> 
> (I don't think the bt2020 flag is false though. That is just people talking out of the wrong end of their body.)
> 
> 
> 
> Generally I let Oppo do the heavy lifting with upscaling, but again this can be tricky since the 5040 will be doing
> 
> conversion no matter what since it's not true 4K. I would try things both ways in your own setup and see what you like better.
> 
> Different ways of sending standard Blu-ray content would be Source Direct, or different iteration of Deep Color and Color Space along
> 
> with Custom 1080p, or scale it to 4K. Both Oppo and Epson have great scaling so one really isn't better than the other.
> 
> At one time, I think I thought sending Blu-ray at 1080p to the Epson looked better, but that is no official statement.
> 
> However for UHD Blu-ray I pretty much just send Source Direct.
> 
> 
> 
> One good thing about the Oppo is that the AUTO settings are very good. You can't really go wrong using them.
> 
> Since the Epson is limited on what it can accept, the Oppo receives the proper metadata for the Epson and sends the proper signals.
> 
> You will love what UHD looks like with the Epson. The darkness of HDR can be calibrated somewhat,
> 
> but try it with and without and decide for yourself.
> 
> Personally I tend to watch bright UHD content WITH HDR and darker movies WITHOUT HDR.
> 
> With the way I do stuff, and testing things and whatnot, I am always changing stuff, so my settings are a bit of a moving target.




Thanks for the detailed response. Received my 203 today and happy to report that everything seems to be working without a hitch between my 203, Denon x4200w, and 5040. Time to mess with all the video settings to see which look better. 

Do you know if you can save different settings in the 203? Like one group for 1080p and one for UHD?



Check out my HT & Movie collection @ http://www.blu-ray.com/community/profile.php?u=379734

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> Known major issue. I reported this one first. Do you have latest Epson firmware? They claim to have fixed it. I upgraded and it seems to have fixed it for me. One other member here however claims to continue having issues.
> 
> If you upgraded and still have lock ups PLEASE CALL EPSON SUPPORT ASAP. This is a number one priority issue for them and would likely want to hear your particular story and setup.




I also reported this to Epson awhile ago and the FW update seemed to have fixed it for me.



Check out my HT & Movie collection @ http://www.blu-ray.com/community/profile.php?u=379734

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

Has anyone had any noticeable lag with the UBe? I think it's my old xbox, but when I try to play blu rays on it, the video and audio is slightly off. I am using the UBe wireless HDMI. Directv, roku ultra, etc works fine, but has anyone experienced these type of issues?


----------



## bighernan

bighernan said:


> gnolivos thanks for the note. I tried to search for it and couldn't find anything but this thread is a bit long and admit to skipping a few pages here and there as i read through it.
> 
> Anyway, will try to upgrade firmware when i get home tonight and will let you know if it solves it. if not, Ill be sure to contact epson.



ndabunka, dvdwilly3 and gnolivos -- thank you.

I updated the firmware and the issues are no longer present. I can sleep happy tonight


----------



## aaranddeeman

spirithockey79 said:


> I also reported this to Epson awhile ago and the FW update seemed to have fixed it for me.
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my HT & Movie collection @ http://www.blu-ray.com/community/profile.php?u=379734
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


If I may suggest to remove the distracting message "Check out my HT...." from every post and move it to your AVS signature instead. 
It's bit annoying when reading the post(s), honestly.


----------



## McBadden

NoTechi said:


> I just got the HDFury Linker and started to play with it a bit together with the XBox One S and the 6040ube. I am not there yet but i would like to share what I have experienced so far. If someone is interested I took some screeshots of the projector and linker info and posted them on a German forum. Screenshots are also in German but you will get the point. HIFI-Forum link
> 
> Outcome so far:
> 1. Xbox shows full compatibility to 4k and HDR content with the linker directly connected to the wireless box (I got a receiver in between but its set to not upscale)
> 2. no HDR with the game I tested (FF15). HDR is not even sent from the XBox but from what I have read FF15 should be in HDR
> 3. there is something strange going on having BT709 as input and BT2020 as output from the linker. That sounds to me kinda impossible beside "faking" the signal to BT2020 even though the color space is still BT709
> 3. Both games and Netflix are 8bit. This was to be expected since the projector is limited to 8bit with 60Hz. Interesting to see is that even if 10/12 bit is sent to the projector it seems to "downscale" it to 8bit but plays well. In other words the bandwidth of the wireless connection can't be the limiting factor since the 10/12bit get transmitted (or the wireless box is already downscaling it but I doubt that). It's the HDMI chip itself or better Epson who restricted it to 8bit at 60Hz. At least the wireless chip was reported to be able to handle 10/12bit at 60Hz.
> 4. With Netflix I get BT2020 and HDR2. I am just curios if this even makes sense at 8bit
> 
> I am going to play more around with the Linker settings and I did no projector calibration at all with the linker in between so far. But not looking at the numbers and just from the first look with linker but without calibration it did not look impressive at all (or even worse) with 8bit even with BT2020 and HDR. It comes all back to streaming like Netflix UHD content and gaming is in 60Hz and thats limited to 8bit by the projector
> 
> NoTechi


I'm curious where you found a 6040ube? I was under the impression that the ube was only available as a 5040.

Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Smarty-pants

spirithockey79 said:


> Thanks for the detailed response. Received my 203 today and happy to report that everything seems to be working without a hitch between my 203, Denon x4200w, and 5040. Time to mess with all the video settings to see which look better.
> 
> Do you know if you can save different settings in the 203? Like one group for 1080p and one for UHD?
> 
> 
> 
> Check out my HT & Movie collection @ http://www.blu-ray.com/community/profile.php?u=379734
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


No, not really. Not sure that would be a good way to do it anyway. The Epsons are very customizable and you can just save different memory/picture settings in the Epson for the same purpose.

My advice with the Oppo is to just leave most of the picture settings at default and auto.
If you want some explicit setting, you can try Color Space: 4:2:2 and Deep Color: 10 bit.
Set Resolution to Source Direct and you are good for pretty much all movies and shows.
(Be sure to turn OFF any scaling in the Denon)


----------



## aaranddeeman

Smarty-pants said:


> No, not really. Not sure that would be a good way to do it anyway. The Epsons are very customizable and you can just save different memory/picture settings in the Epson for the same purpose.
> 
> My advice with the Oppo is to just leave most of the picture settings at default and auto.
> If you want some explicit setting, you can try Color Space: 4:2:2 and Deep Color: 10 bit.
> Set Resolution to *Source Direct* and you are good for pretty much all movies and shows.
> (Be sure to turn OFF any scaling in the Denon)


Ah. Does mean it will send the exact source resolution to display and will not upconvert everything to 4k? That would be neat.
I am missing that in the Philips.


----------



## bluer101

Has anyone here that owns a Oppo 103d feed the projector 2K4K from the Oppo with darbee? 

Just curios is the Oppo does better than the Epson.


----------



## budeliao

Just joined the Epson 5040 owners club. Placed the order yesterday and will be setting things up next week. Just couldn't pass on the $2799 price. It's my first projector purchase so really looking forward to it. Have appreciated all the thoughts and comments on this thread as I debated the purchase.

Next up: UHD blu-ray.


----------



## bluer101

budeliao said:


> Just joined the Epson 5040 owners club. Placed the order yesterday and will be setting things up next week. Just couldn't pass on the $2799 price. It's my first projector purchase so really looking forward to it. Have appreciated all the thoughts and comments on this thread as I debated the purchase.
> 
> Next up: UHD blu-ray.


Well I just did the same thing, I joined the club. Will be delivered on Friday, merry Xmas to me, lol. 

I have to stop hanging around here. 

Could not pass up the reviews here and BB 24 month financing. Play with their money.

Hope is a great upgrade to my Benq w1070. That will be going in my sons bedroom for his gaming.


----------



## NoTechi

McBadden said:


> I'm curious where you found a 6040ube? I was under the impression that the ube was only available as a 5040.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N930V using Tapatalk


Actually I got a Epson EH TW9300w which should be the European name for the 6040ube.
There is also a TW9300 which is the same without wireless. And there is the little brother TW7300 where no wireless version is available afaik.

NoTechi


----------



## gene4ht

Smarty-pants said:


> My advice with the Oppo is to just leave most of the picture settings at default and auto.


Received my 203 as well...as you suggested, my settings are at default and auto. I did however experiment with stripping HDR (metadata) and, like others, encountered "red push." Can/should this be counteracted with color adjustments or is this something Oppo is/will be correcting?


----------



## hernandez_t

lcrenshaw7 said:


> Will a Sanus Universal mount work with the 5040? I am using it with a 5030 now and need to know if I need to get a new mount. Thanks for your help


The Geek Squad was able to make the Sanus VMPR1 mount work with my 5040. It took my coaxing them and some extra effort on their part. I believe there are 9 mount holes on the 5040. The Sanus has 4 arms that wouldn't reach to the 4 outer most corner holes. But the projector seems to be balanced and stable with all 4 arms attached where they did reach.


----------



## Smarty-pants

aaranddeeman said:


> Ah. Does mean it will send the exact source resolution to display and will not upconvert everything to 4k? That would be neat.
> I am missing that in the Philips.


Yes resolution of the source material will remain unchanged when using Source Direct. That means 4k output for UHD, 1080p output for standard Blu-ray, and 480p output for DVD. This may or may not be recommended for most 4K displays, but the Epsons are not true 4K,
and scaling signals in the player once and then again in the projector could yield worse results rather than letting the pj just scale them once before applying eShift. It's always best to try it different ways though, and use your own source of judgement.



bluer101 said:


> Has anyone here that owns a Oppo 103d feed the projector 2K4K from the Oppo with darbee?
> Just curios is the Oppo does better than the Epson.


I honestly have not specifically tried that with my Epson 5040 yet. I would wager an educated guess that it's probably better to not scale it to 4K in the player and just send it as 1080p with Darbee enhancement. If sending the 4K signal to the Epson, the Epson will have to downscale it back to 1080p anyway before applying eShift. Also be careful with using Darbee AND the sharpening enhancements of the Epson.
Too many enhancements will cause picture degradation and artifacts.



gene4ht said:


> Received my 203 as well...as you suggested, my settings are at default and auto. I did however experiment with stripping HDR (metadata) and, like others, encountered "red push." Can/should this be counteracted with color adjustments or is this something Oppo is/will be correcting?


The Strip Metadata feature of the Oppo is still being worked on. Whatever anomalies you see will be corrected in time. It's impossible to know how long that will take, but Oppo is working all issues. They are very proactive in that regard.


----------



## gene4ht

Smarty-pants said:


> The Strip Metadata feature of the Oppo is still being worked on. Whatever anomalies you see will be corrected in time. It's impossible to know how long that will take, but* Oppo is working all issues. They are very proactive in that regard.*


Thanks...comforting to know!

Since Oppo discussion is slightly OT here, this new thread I just discovered might be helpful also....nevertheless...certainly appreciate your input here. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...p-203-technical-discussion-issues-thread.html


----------



## Smarty-pants

gene4ht said:


> Thanks...comforting to know!
> 
> Since Oppo discussion is slightly OT here, this new thread I just discovered might be helpful also....nevertheless...certainly appreciate your input here.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...p-203-technical-discussion-issues-thread.html


That thread is very unnecessary IMO. For people trying to follow UDP-203 discussions, there are already 3 threads and that one makes 4.
I know the owners thread is VERY busy right now, but in time it will slow down and be more stable.
I will always try to offer help with the 203 and how it works with the Epson 4040/5040/6040 when I can if there are specific questions here.
General questions about the 203 should be posted in the owners thread, and if they happen to slip through the cracks and not addressed within 24 hours or so, feel free to resubmit. I can tell you for sure that there are no representatives from Oppo helping on the forum right now.
Mostly it comes from beta testers and owners who are just trying to help when they have the time.
Personally I can't even keep up with all the comments in the owners thread. I have to resort to skimming when I get too far behind, lol.


----------



## schmidtwi

*!*



bluer101 said:


> Thank you for the advice. I'm going to look back to see if I can find some pictures.
> 
> The main drawback is the price of course. But if it's really that good then I might make the jump. Also for the lens memory for my next AT 2.35 screen.


I also upgraded to the Epson from a BenQ W1070. It is a huge upgrade, worth the jump. The 1070 is a very good budget pj that throws a good picture, but the Epson is an AWESOME PJ!!


EDIT: ooops, just saw you ordered the Epson. Congrats - you will like..


----------



## Vaggeto

Just got a 6040 today and I've got a bright blue spot. Any ideas what this is? I don't see anything on the lens so I'm afraid it's coming from within. Seems a bit to obvious to be a dust blob and unlikely brand new, but maybe?

Thanks


----------



## aaranddeeman

Vaggeto said:


> Just got a 6040 today and I've got a bright blue spot. Any ideas what this is? I don't see anything on the lens so I'm afraid it's coming from within. Seems a bit to obvious to be a dust blob and unlikely brand new, but maybe?
> 
> Thanks


Dust blob or it is on the screen.


----------



## Vaggeto

aaranddeeman said:


> Dust blob or it is on the screen.


In further testing, if I isolate the colors with the remote "pattern" button the red color has a dark spot, both green and blue are perfectly normal. So from what I can tell this blue blob is due to a lack of red color which makes perfect since considering it's cyan and not really blue.

Assuming it's a dust blob on the red LCD, is there any risk in trying to clear this one myself? I'm not familiar with the process with this projector but I know with most projectors you can attempt to clear it yourself. I just don't want to damage it or void the warranty.

Thanks


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Vaggeto said:


> Just got a 6040 today and I've got a bright blue spot. Any ideas what this is? I don't see anything on the lens so I'm afraid it's coming from within. Seems a bit to obvious to be a dust blob and unlikely brand new, but maybe?
> 
> Thanks




got a purple one much smaller than that but it was visible from viewing distance, my dealer contacted Epson & they replaced mine with new one.


----------



## gnolivos

Vaggeto said:


> Just got a 6040 today and I've got a bright blue spot. Any ideas what this is? I don't see anything on the lens so I'm afraid it's coming from within. Seems a bit to obvious to be a dust blob and unlikely brand new, but maybe?
> 
> Thanks




Take it back to dealer and get it replaced. Don't put any hours on it. Simple swap.


----------



## Holy Sith

Vaggeto said:


> Just got a 6040 today and I've got a bright blue spot. Any ideas what this is? I don't see anything on the lens so I'm afraid it's coming from within. Seems a bit to obvious to be a dust blob and unlikely brand new, but maybe?


I had pretty much the same thing on my second (yes SECOND!) TW9300 (European black 5040ub). It was slightly more green than cyan and a bit more central than your spot. I assumed it was some kind of dust blob, took it back to my dealer and had it swapped out for a third. 

Just for reference, my first had a green tint in the bottom right corner. It wasn't as bothersome as the green/cyan spot in the middle of the screen but still needed replacing. It actually took my dealer a couple of weeks to get a replacement from Epson (these things are selling like hot cakes) and I probably put >300hrs on it (it's basically my TV). So far, so good with my 3rd model. At first I was rather peeved (slight understatement) with the issues but I guess these things just sometimes happen with tech and I can't complain about the warranty service I've had so far (hopefully I won't be needing any more support).

I upgraded from a BenQ W1070 and the stunning picture from this Epson just blew me away (even with the teething troubles). I know it's to be expected for the price difference but still...this light cannon just throws a stonking image. I'm sure it almost burned a hole in my screen it was so bright! 

Anyway, I hope your warranty replacement is swift and pain-free


----------



## evoZip

*3D help*

Had kept up with the first 90some pages...lot of new info/pages since then that I haven't been able to check through all, but did try a search with no help

xBox one (S)...USB hard drive. Trying to play a 3D movie, and I get the split screen on each of them. How do I blend them? My only other 3D display is an LG tv, and I press the 3D button and it brings up images asking "how is the image displayed- split vertically or horizontally" and it's as simple as that. 

3D is enabled on xbox...anyone know what I'm missing here?

Thanks!


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

SALadder22FF said:


> Has anyone had any noticeable lag with the UBe? I think it's my old xbox, but when I try to play blu rays on it, the video and audio is slightly off. I am using the UBe wireless HDMI. Directv, roku ultra, etc works fine, but has anyone experienced these type of issues?


Also have UBe and using WiHD. I haven't tried any physical media, but I have an XB1, and have played high bitrate content through Plex without any trouble. No a/v sync issues at all.


----------



## Oledurt

can't get lens memory to work right. I have a new cinemascope widescreen. I have saved the lens setting for 16x9 perfectly accurate, but when I zoom out and save the lens memory for the 2.40.1 aspect ratio it does not accurately recall that position. For example, I hit lens 2 it moves to the 16x9 setting perfectly. I hit lens 1 it goes back to widescreen setting however it is off from the original saved setting. 

i have saved, readjusted, and re saved countless times, no matter what I do it will not accurately save that zoomed out wide lens position accurately.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

Quick firmware update question, when I plug the USB in will it start updating firmware instantly or will I have to tell it?


----------



## gnolivos

Savatage316 said:


> Quick firmware update question, when I plug the USB in will it start updating firmware instantly or will I have to tell it?




You tell it. You tell it: "I will read your manual".


----------



## Savatage316

gnolivos said:


> You tell it. You tell it: "I will read your manual".


Lol yea I laughed when I realized I wrote, tell it. I am not able to find my damn manual, but I thought itd be as easy as selecting update like my Denon and that would be it. I have my USB stick in with the file. Not sure what to do next here, lookin up some info and can't find specifics. Gonna see if the 5040ub manual is online, betting it is


----------



## Savatage316

Got it all updated, good stuff


----------



## gnolivos

It's on Epson website.


----------



## Savatage316

Got it all updated. So here's what I have, firmware didn't solve my purple screen issue when it comes to hdr. I called epson and they said it's most likely the receiver which is why it's not passing hdr. In my info area of my projector I'm betting BT 709 SDR. So I'm not getting an hdr signal. 

Anyone have the Denon S910w model? 

I'm still learning on this new stuff so I'm just not sure what options would open this signal up. But it makes sense that my problem is right there


----------



## bighernan

*dust blob*



flapjackdowntheline said:


> Does anyone else get a slight hum when viewing 4K content at 60hz? Noticed with my gaming PC at 4K 60hz.




Last night I noticed a greenish blob during dark scenes. its on the far left of the image, dead center on the vertical plane. I tried to remove by wiping lens - still there. Its definitely a dust blob. Didn't even have it for a full week. Called my dealer today and after 15 minutes on the phone, epson is sending me a replacement unit and ill be sending this one back. I had my optima HD25-LV for almost 4 years and never had an issue so i hope this dust blob just a one off and not indicative of the 5040ub quality. 

flapjackdowntheline, I do hear a slight hum when 4k enhancement is enabled, and honestly, i think i like the picture a more with 4k enhancement disabled anyway, so im keeping it off. I am still able to apply image resolution enhancement (Super Resolution and Detail Enhancement) while keeping 4k enhancement disabled. 

With the projector in eco mode and 4k off, its nearly silent.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Savatage316 said:


> Got it all updated. So here's what I have, firmware didn't solve my purple screen issue when it comes to hdr. I called epson and they said it's most likely the receiver which is why it's not passing hdr. In my info area of my projector I'm betting BT 709 SDR. So I'm not getting an hdr signal.
> 
> Anyone have the Denon S910w model?
> 
> I'm still learning on this new stuff so I'm just not sure what options would open this signal up. But it makes sense that my problem is right there


Run an HDMI cable direct from your source device to the projector to rule out the Denon causing any problems (as a test).


----------



## Savatage316

I'll do that for sure. Here's a question, if everyone goes into their info section, does that color format say bt.709 sdr or is everyone else getting bt.2020 hdr?


----------



## welldun

Savatage316 said:


> Got it all updated, good stuff


I've tried countless time to do the upgrade (including once with while on the phone with an epson tech support person), but some how the update does not install. 

Here are my steps again, perhaps you can chime in and tell me if you did something different to get the update to work.


step1. formatted a 4Gb Sandisk USB stick to FAT on my Windows 10 laptop
Step2. I downloaded the Epson 108/104 firmware file and copied it to the formatted USB drive. the file extension is ".bin"
step3. I unplugged the projector.
step4. I inserted the USB drive into the middle USB port of the 5040ub.
Step5. while holding down the standby/power button on the projector, I plugged the power cord to the projector.
Step6. once the Blue and Orange lights near the standby button begin to flash, I release the standby button. 
Step7. After releasing the button, I sit and wait. but within 10 second my Projector goes into standby mode with just the blue light of the button remaining on. 
I left the unit like that for more than 8 hours only to find that the firmware did not update


----------



## Savatage316

welldun said:


> I've tried countless time to do the upgrade (including once with while on the phone with an epson tech support person), but some how the update does not install.
> 
> Here are my steps again, perhaps you can chime in and tell me if you did something different to get the update to work.
> 
> 
> step1. formatted a 4Gb Sandisk USB stick to FAT on my Windows 10 laptop
> Step2. I downloaded the Epson 108/104 firmware file and copied it to the formatted USB drive. the file extension is ".bin"
> step3. I unplugged the projector.
> step4. I inserted the USB drive into the middle USB port of the 5040ub.
> Step5. while holding down the standby/power button on the projector, I plugged the power cord to the projector.
> Step6. once the Blue and Orange lights near the standby button begin to flash, I release the standby button.
> Step7. After releasing the button, I sit and wait. but within 10 second my Projector goes into standby mode with just the blue light of the button remaining on.
> I left the unit like that for more than 8 hours only to find that the firmware did not update


Well only thing different I did was format it at fat32, maybe that is what the difference is that's needed for you. Also did you put the file in a folder or anything?


----------



## welldun

Savatage316 said:


> Well only thing different I did was format it at fat32, maybe that is what the difference is that's needed for you. Also did you put the file in a folder or anything?


I did FAT because that's what the instructions called for. And as far as the file goes, I did not put it in a folder. The instructions call for it to be in the root directory (which I understood as, no folder).


----------



## Savatage316

welldun said:


> I did FAT because that's what the instructions called for. And as far as the file goes, I did not put it in a folder. The instructions call for it to be in the root directory (which I understood as, no folder).


Right, just was making sure. I did FAT 32 tho so give it a try


----------



## rjguk

Some USB sticks are partitioned so that manufacturer-supplied software can always run and this can possibly interfere with what the update process is expecting. Sandisk Cruzer is a case in point. I had a stick (Sandisk Cruzer) where it didn't work, a different stick (Kingston Datatraveler) was fine with exactly the same procedure. Apart from that, formatting as FAT32 is required, and the .bin file the only single thing on the stick.

(You can get rid of the Sandisk partition, but it is easier to use a different make)


----------



## Savatage316

See what I'm not getting is in my info area, my color range is bt.709... But I can scroll back a bit and up and head to other settings and change my image to bt.2020...and I get even darker more colorful colors. But when I go back to look at my info it's still showing 709. I don't understand that.


----------



## ndabunka

Oledurt said:


> can't get lens memory to work right. I have a new cinemascope widescreen. I have saved the lens setting for 16x9 perfectly accurate, but when I zoom out and save the lens memory for the 2.40.1 aspect ratio it does not accurately recall that position. For example, I hit lens 2 it moves to the 16x9 setting perfectly. I hit lens 1 it goes back to widescreen setting however it is off from the original saved setting.
> 
> i have saved, readjusted, and re saved countless times, no matter what I do it will not accurately save that zoomed out wide lens position accurately.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


#1) Ensure that neither of the settings is at the projectors "MAXIMUM"
#2) Ensure that you ...w....a.....i.....t before trying to SAVE the memory setting as the projector does a few gyrations before it reaches it's "final" setting. Others were adjusting and then saving before this settled and reported that simply waiting 2 minutes before saving the setting resolved the issue
#3) As is already posted here on one of these threads, EPSON has provided guidance as to how to "properly" adjust the settings before saving. It has something to do with incremental and/or "partial" increments that are possible in the adjustment. Please do a search using the search function on this forum and enter something logical into it like "epson saving" or "memory saving" or similar for exactly how EPSON recommends that you perform the changes and save


----------



## ndabunka

Savatage316 said:


> See what I'm not getting is in my info area, my color range is bt.709... But I can scroll back a bit and up and head to other settings and change my image to bt.2020...and I get even darker more colorful colors. But when I go back to look at my info it's still showing 709. I don't understand that.


Nothing odd there. Sounds like your source is only sending 709.

The changes you are making on the projector can't change the source data. It can and does attempt to provide you the 2020 color pallet but since the source isn't 2020 it will, very understandably, look worng because it is wrong


----------



## ndabunka

Savatage316 said:


> Got it all updated. So here's what I have, firmware didn't solve my purple screen issue when it comes to hdr. I called epson and they said it's most likely the receiver which is why it's not passing hdr. In my info area of my projector I'm betting BT 709 SDR. So I'm not getting an hdr signal.
> 
> Anyone have the Denon S910w model?
> 
> I'm still learning on this new stuff so I'm just not sure what options would open this signal up. But it makes sense that my problem is right there


Did the purple screen go away once you connected direct to the projector (e.g. removed the AVR from the equation)? That particular Denon is supposed to be capable of supporting HDR so it's more likely a setting in the Denon box is set incorrectly (e.g. over riding/blocking HDR). 

Sounds like you will want to take this one to the Denon thread to get guidance from others who use Denon's rather than expecting to find a S910W user on this thread (a bit of a longer shot).


----------



## Savatage316

ndabunka said:


> Did the purple screen go away once you connected direct to the projector (e.g. removed the AVR from the equation)? That particular Denon is supposed to be capable of supporting HDR so it's more likely a setting in the Denon box is set incorrectly (e.g. over riding/blocking HDR).
> 
> Sounds like you will want to take this one to the Denon thread to get guidance from others who use Denon's rather than expecting to find a S910W user on this thread (a bit of a longer shot).


Gonna try to run that line now and see if I can get the purple screen to go away without the avr, hadn't had a moment. But I posted on the Denon thread, no luck yet getting a response.


----------



## Savatage316

So is this how the difference of color ranges should look? 

https://flic.kr/p/Qfco8Q

https://flic.kr/p/QhVMj2

Top one 709, bottom set to 2020. 

What am I looking at here, it was set to auto. Is that 2020 setting lookin like it's displaying properly, if so then why wouldn't it automatically detect that?


----------



## Oledurt

ndabunka said:


> #1) Ensure that neither of the settings is at the projectors "MAXIMUM"
> 
> #2) Ensure that you ...w....a.....i.....t before trying to SAVE the memory setting as the projector does a few gyrations before it reaches it's "final" setting. Others were adjusting and then saving before this settled and reported that simply waiting 2 minutes before saving the setting resolved the issue
> 
> #3) As is already posted here on one of these threads, EPSON has provided guidance as to how to "properly" adjust the settings before saving. It has something to do with incremental and/or "partial" increments that are possible in the adjustment. Please do a search using the search function on this forum and enter something logical into it like "epson saving" or "memory saving" or similar for exactly how EPSON recommends that you perform the changes and save




Thank you so much...problem solved.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

rjguk said:


> Some USB sticks are partitioned so that manufacturer-supplied software can always run and this can possibly interfere with what the update process is expecting. Sandisk Cruzer is a case in point. I had a stick (Sandisk Cruzer) where it didn't work, a different stick (Kingston Datatraveler) was fine with exactly the same procedure. Apart from that, formatting as FAT32 is required, and the .bin file the only single thing on the stick.
> 
> (You can get rid of the Sandisk partition, but it is easier to use a different make)


Thanks for the info about the partition on the Sandisk Drive. I will look for a different USB stick. unfortunately the other USB sticks that I have at the moment are 64Gb, and for some reason windows 10 won't format those into anything other than NTFS or Exfat. I hope that's the issue and not anything else. 

I actually made a short video of the procedure as it happens with my setup, so that anyone who has done the update can view it and tell me if their process was similar. The one thing that I know is not happening is the "75 seconds" of lights flashing during the update that the instructions mention. In the video, you can see how after just a few seconds, the unit goes into standby. 

One quick question for all of you who have the 5040ub. Does the projector make all the white lettering look green when you first start it up? my unit seems to come on with greencoloring on everything that should be white. However, the green goes away once the projector warms up. 

here is the link to the video that I recorded. It includes a mini tour of my setup and the update procedure. I put it in Dropbox.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pjw0uef3urx808z/5040ub%20update%20failure.mp4?dl=0


----------



## ndabunka

Oledurt said:


> Thank you so much...problem solved.
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Good to hear this helped!


----------



## ndabunka

Savatage316 said:


> So is this how the difference of color ranges should look?
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/Qfco8Q
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/QhVMj2
> 
> Top one 709, bottom set to 2020.
> 
> What am I looking at here, it was set to auto. Is that 2020 setting lookin like it's displaying properly, if so then why wouldn't it automatically detect that?


There is a button you can push on the remote that will show you the ACTUAL specs of what is coming into the projector and also what the projector is outputing. I don't recall the button and am not by my projector now but if you read the manual or perhaps just investigate the remote a bit you should be able to easily find it. Something like INFO if I recall


----------



## bighernan

I had a very similar issue while upgrading. It wasn't working. What did it for me is I had to use diskpart to delete all partitions and wipe the drive completely and then format it FAT or FAT32 (don't remember which one I did). 

You can try following this guide on how to use diskpart. It's pretty straightforward. Once it's properly formatted, you can copy the file and try the upgrade again. Best of luck. 

https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc725797(v=ws.11).aspx



welldun said:


> Thanks for the info about the partition on the Sandisk Drive. I will look for a different USB stick. unfortunately the other USB sticks that I have at the moment are 64Gb, and for some reason windows 10 won't format those into anything other than NTFS or Exfat. I hope that's the issue and not anything else.
> 
> I actually made a short video of the procedure as it happens with my setup, so that anyone who has done the update can view it and tell me if their process was similar. The one thing that I know is not happening is the "75 seconds" of lights flashing during the update that the instructions mention. In the video, you can see how after just a few seconds, the unit goes into standby.
> 
> One quick question for all of you who have the 5040ub. Does the projector make all the white lettering look green when you first start it up? my unit seems to come on with greencoloring on everything that should be white. However, the green goes away once the projector warms up.
> 
> here is the link to the video that I recorded. It includes a mini tour of my setup and the update procedure. I put it in Dropbox.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pjw0uef3urx808z/5040ub%20update%20failure.mp4?dl=0


----------



## aaranddeeman

welldun said:


> I've tried countless time to do the upgrade (including once with while on the phone with an epson tech support person), but some how the update does not install.
> 
> Here are my steps again, perhaps you can chime in and tell me if you did something different to get the update to work.
> 
> 
> step1. formatted a 4Gb Sandisk USB stick to FAT on my Windows 10 laptop
> Step2. I downloaded the Epson 108/104 firmware file and copied it to the formatted USB drive. the file extension is ".bin"
> step3. I unplugged the projector.
> step4. I inserted the USB drive into the middle USB port of the 5040ub.
> Step5. while holding down the standby/power button on the projector, I plugged the power cord to the projector.
> Step6. once the Blue and Orange lights near the standby button begin to flash, I release the standby button.
> Step7. After releasing the button, I sit and wait. but within 10 second my Projector goes into standby mode with just the blue light of the button remaining on.
> I left the unit like that for more than 8 hours only to find that the firmware did not update



Why don't you try the alternate method of using USB cable and your computer mentioned here.


----------



## swyda038

Does both HDMI ports on the 5040ub accept a 4k signal? The issue I have is that I have an HDMI cable in the wall that is 2.0 but not hdcp 2.2 capable (it is 1.4) I can get a converter to convert the hdcp 2.2 signal coming out of my reciever, to hdcp 1.4 before it connects to my in wall hdmi 2.0 hdcp 1.4, while still allowing the 4k information through, but will the 5040ub non hdcp 2.2 port accept the 4k information at the hdcp 1.4 level? If not, will the hdcp 2.2 port accept a hdcp 1.4 4k signal?

thanks everyone!


----------



## Despoiler

welldun said:


> Thanks for the info about the partition on the Sandisk Drive. I will look for a different USB stick. unfortunately the other USB sticks that I have at the moment are 64Gb, and for some reason windows 10 won't format those into anything other than NTFS or Exfat. I hope that's the issue and not anything else.
> 
> I actually made a short video of the procedure as it happens with my setup, so that anyone who has done the update can view it and tell me if their process was similar. The one thing that I know is not happening is the "75 seconds" of lights flashing during the update that the instructions mention. In the video, you can see how after just a few seconds, the unit goes into standby.
> 
> One quick question for all of you who have the 5040ub. Does the projector make all the white lettering look green when you first start it up? my unit seems to come on with greencoloring on everything that should be white. However, the green goes away once the projector warms up.
> 
> here is the link to the video that I recorded. It includes a mini tour of my setup and the update procedure. I put it in Dropbox.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pjw0uef3urx808z/5040ub%20update%20failure.mp4?dl=0



Don't use Windows to format USB SD devices. It never works in my experience. Go grab a free tool called HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool.


----------



## leo9000

Savatage316 said:


> Well only thing different I did was format it at fat32, maybe that is what the difference is that's needed for you. Also did you put the file in a folder or anything?


I had a similar issue. I tried downloading the file to a new USB stick and then it worked properly. Even though I had formatted the first stick correctly the projector just wouldn’t read it. You may want to try a new USB stick.


----------



## welldun

Thank you all for your prompt replies on how to get the firmware update done. I managed to find an old USB stick that I got from a conference. I was able to format that one to FAT32, put the software on and it, and it worked beautifully. The update is there now.


----------



## swyda038

Does both HDMI ports on the 5040ub accept a 4k signal? The issue I have is that I have an HDMI cable in the wall that is 2.0 but not hdcp 2.2 capable (it is 1.4) I can get a converter to convert the hdcp 2.2 signal coming out of my reciever, to hdcp 1.4 before it connects to my in wall hdmi 2.0 hdcp 1.4, while still allowing the 4k information through, but will the 5040ub non hdcp 2.2 port accept the 4k information at the hdcp 1.4 level? If not, will the hdcp 2.2 port accept a hdcp 1.4 4k signal?

thanks everyone!


----------



## Savatage316

So I got my pro to accept 2k hdr, but man it was super dark and dim. Like I was lookin at a screen blanketed by smoke, just dark. Anyone ever experience that before?


----------



## Colin Goddard

I have a question that I have been searching here and with the owners manual..Maybe I over looked it? Anyway,I have an Epson 6040, Marantz 7010 and an Oppo 203...with that said, How do I switch HDR modes on my 6040?.. I would like to go from HDR1 to HDR2 to see the difference in picture quality..Or is HDR encoded on the disc your watching and can't be change?..A little confused here..Thanks in advance for your help..


----------



## leo9000

Colin Goddard said:


> I have a question that I have been searching here and with the owners manual..Maybe I over looked it? Anyway,I have an Epson 6040, Marantz 7010 and an Oppo 203...with that said, How do I switch HDR modes on my 6040?.. I would like to go from HDR1 to HDR2 to see the difference in picture quality..Or is HDR encoded on the disc your watching and can't be change?..A little confused here..Thanks in advance for your help..


When watching a UHD source go into Menu, Signal menu, Advanced, Dynamic Range, and choose your HDR selection. I find that I prefer HDR1 for most 4K Blu-rays since it is the brightest.


----------



## swyda038

gnolivos said:


> HDMI port 2 certainly can handle 4K. Just not HDCP 2.2


Does the HDMI port 2 accept a 4k signal with a hdcp 1.4? The issue I have is that I have an HDMI cable in the wall that is 2.0 but not hdcp 2.2 capable (it is 1.4) I can get a converter to convert the hdcp 2.2 signal coming out of my reciever, to hdcp 1.4 before it connects to my in wall hdmi 2.0 hdcp 1.4. The converter is designed to allow for 4k information through, but will the 5040ub non hdcp 2.2 port accept the 4k 60mhz 10bit information at the hdcp 1.4 level? Will there be any quality loss in converting from hdcp 2.2 to 1.4 and using the hdmi port2?

thanks !


----------



## ndabunka

Savatage316 said:


> So I got my pro to accept 2k hdr, but man it was super dark and dim. Like I was lookin at a screen blanketed by smoke, just dark. Anyone ever experience that before?


Yes. You know to change the projector's HDR option from all the prior people posting that very common observation. There are even people like me that provided an extensive listing of parameters to configure your projector in order to get a brighter picture. Just follow any of those and you will get better performance.

So, you are saying that your "purple Screen" was no longer purple when you cabled around the AVR or was there something else that fixed the purple screen like perhaps putting in the proper settings into the AVR , correct?


----------



## ndabunka

swyda038 said:


> Does both HDMI ports on the 5040ub accept a 4k signal? The issue I have is that I have an HDMI cable in the wall that is 2.0 but not hdcp 2.2 capable (it is 1.4) I can get a converter to convert the hdcp 2.2 signal coming out of my reciever, to hdcp 1.4 before it connects to my in wall hdmi 2.0 hdcp 1.4, while still allowing the 4k information through, but will the 5040ub non hdcp 2.2 port accept the 4k information at the hdcp 1.4 level? If not, will the hdcp 2.2 port accept a hdcp 1.4 4k signal?
> 
> thanks everyone!


Your description makes it sound like you may not understand what you are asking about. Once you convert something to a lower parameter, you are basically "stuck" with that lower parameter. You can't simply transcode a 2.2 signal into a 1.4 for transport across the wire and then on the other end trasncode it back to 2.2.

The Epson has two HDMI in ports. One is 2.2 and you can connect that to a cable and a device that supports 2.2. Of course it can also accept the lower resolution 1.4 HDMI signal but that lower resolution signal can't carry 4K so if 4K is your objective you will need to replace the cable with a compliant 4K version.

The second port is the lower speed and is not designed to transport 4K and no amount of gyrations will change that


----------



## Savatage316

ndabunka said:


> Yes. You know to change the projector's HDR option from all the prior people posting that very common observation. There are even people like me that provided an extensive listing of parameters to configure your projector in order to get a brighter picture. Just follow any of those and you will get better performance.
> 
> So, you are saying that your "purple Screen" was no longer purple when you cabled around the AVR or was there something else that fixed the purple screen like perhaps putting in the proper settings into the AVR , correct?


Yea it was my receiver that had the wrong conversion settings and it let the hdr pass thru once I changed that. 

If you could link or point me to where you have parameters to increase the brightness for hdr that would be great, would about fix all my issues. Thanks again for some suggestions and what with this


----------



## rayians

I received my Oppo 203 4k player today and paired it with my Epson 5040UB. I bought a "high end" Monoprice 40' HDMI that swore up and down it handled HMDI 2.2 up to 100'. Well, long story short, it doesn't. Just to be sure it was the Monoprice HDMI, I hooked up the Oppo directly to the HDMI 2.2 port using the Oppo HDMI cable, and sure enough it was the Monoprice cable. 

Now for the really disappointing part. I compared side by side images of a 4k disc and a regular blu ray disc of the same movie, and the blu ray disc BY FAR had a brighter, more vibrant image. I played with the settings for a while and got it better, but now the blacks are lacking and the colors and whites still pop more from the blu ray. After 2 hours of tinkering, the regular blu ray image is still quite superior the the 4k image. 

I know it's a setting of some sort, can anyone give me any advice where to start?


----------



## Smarty-pants

ndabunka said:


> Your description makes it sound like you may not understand what you are asking about. Once you convert something to a lower parameter, you are basically "stuck" with that lower parameter. You can't simply transcode a 2.2 signal into a 1.4 for transport across the wire and then on the other end trasncode it back to 2.2.
> 
> The Epson has two HDMI in ports. One is 2.2 and you can connect that to a cable and a device that supports 2.2. Of course it can also accept the lower resolution 1.4 HDMI signal but that lower resolution signal can't carry 4K so if 4K is your objective you will need to replace the cable with a compliant 4K version.
> 
> The second port is the lower speed and is not designed to transport 4K and no amount of gyrations will change that


Wrong. HDMI 1.4 CAN transmit 4K resolution.


----------



## livitup311

rayians said:


> I received my Oppo 203 4k player today and paired it with my Epson 5040UB. I bought a "high end" Monoprice 40' HDMI that swore up and down it handled HMDI 2.2 up to 100'. Well, long story short, it doesn't. Just to be sure it was the Monoprice HDMI, I hooked up the Oppo directly to the HDMI 2.2 port using the Oppo HDMI cable, and sure enough it was the Monoprice cable.
> 
> Now for the really disappointing part. I compared side by side images of a 4k disc and a regular blu ray disc of the same movie, and the blu ray disc BY FAR had a brighter, more vibrant image. I played with the settings for a while and got it better, but now the blacks are lacking and the colors and whites still pop more from the blu ray. After 2 hours of tinkering, the regular blu ray image is still quite superior the the 4k image.
> 
> I know it's a setting of some sort, can anyone give me any advice where to start?




I would try setting the Oppo to strip HDR.


----------



## Smarty-pants

swyda038 said:


> Does both HDMI ports on the 5040ub accept a 4k signal? The issue I have is that I have an HDMI cable in the wall that is 2.0 but not hdcp 2.2 capable (it is 1.4) I can get a converter to convert the hdcp 2.2 signal coming out of my reciever, to hdcp 1.4 before it connects to my in wall hdmi 2.0 hdcp 1.4, while still allowing the 4k information through, but will the 5040ub non hdcp 2.2 port accept the 4k information at the hdcp 1.4 level?  If not, will the hdcp 2.2 port accept a hdcp 1.4 4k signal?
> 
> thanks everyone!


This is an interesting scenario. I have not seen anyone trying such a method with a HDCP 2.2=>1.4 converter yet.
I'm sure there are people doing it in places I don't read, but I just haven't seen any yet.

I know that the last generation of Oppo players (the BDP105D and BDP-103D) could upscale lower resolutions to 4K, and then send signals over the HDMI 1.4 out at 4K/50/60 4:2:0.
I have used that method on a secondary setup and the 4K showed nicely on a HDCP 2.2 compliant 4K tv.
However I have not tried it on the Epson and never thought to even try it on the HDMI-2 input since I already had the abilities for 4K on the HDMI-1 input.
I may be able to try this sometime soon to see if the 4K resolution is maintained for the HDMI-2 input on the Epson. I suspect that it will be fine, but I am curious what it looks like and a few other details. However I am quite busy until after the holiday, so no guarantees until next week. Then again my curiosity may get the best of me and I may make time to try it today, lol.


----------



## swyda038

Smarty-pants said:


> This is an interesting scenario. I have not seen anyone trying such a method with a HDCP 2.2=>1.4 converter yet.
> I'm sure there are people doing it in places I don't read, but I just haven't seen any yet.
> 
> I know that the last generation of Oppo players (the BDP105D and BDP-103D) could upscale lower resolutions to 4K, and then send signals over the HDMI 1.4 out at 4K/50/60 4:2:0.
> I have used that method on a secondary setup and the 4K showed nicely on a HDCP 2.2 compliant 4K tv.
> However I have not tried it on the Epson and never thought to even try it on the HDMI-2 input since I already had the abilities for 4K on the HDMI-1 input.
> I may be able to try this sometime soon to see if the 4K resolution is maintained for the HDMI-2 input on the Epson. I suspect that it will be fine, but I am curious what it looks like and a few other details. However I am quite busy until after the holiday, so no guarantees until next week. Then again my curiosity may get the best of me and I may make time to try it today, lol.


Thanks for your interest in this and feedback. I am trying to avoid having to re-fish a new hdmi cable that is hdcp 2.2 through the walls and having to re-drywall and paint. My current hdmi cable is 2.0 and can handle 4k UHD resolution 60mhz, etc. but doesn't have the hdcp capability 2.2. The converter I was looking at was an HD Fury Integral which seems like it can transfer the 4k signal and simply decodes the 2.2 into 1.4, but I wasn't sure if that could work with the Epson 5040ub HDMI inputs and still provide the 4k image quality. If not, I will just bite the bullet and re-fish a new hdmi cable.


----------



## aaranddeeman

I was wondering if anyone has been able to access the ISF calibration controls on 6040.
I would be really interested to see what they would bring beyond the existing settings. May be 20 point grey scale adjustment and some other goodies..


----------



## chiltonj

swyda038 said:


> Thanks for your interest in this and feedback. I am trying to avoid having to re-fish a new hdmi cable that is hdcp 2.2 through the walls and having to re-drywall and paint. My current hdmi cable is 2.0 and can handle 4k UHD resolution 60mhz, etc. but doesn't have the hdcp capability 2.2. The converter I was looking at was an HD Fury Integral which seems like it can transfer the 4k signal and simply decodes the 2.2 into 1.4, but I wasn't sure if that could work with the Epson 5040ub HDMI inputs and still provide the 4k image quality. If not, I will just bite the bullet and re-fish a new hdmi cable.


I'm pretty sure the cables will work just fine and it's the hdmi ports themselves that allow transferring additional data through the cables. I could be wrong but I've been using the same hdmi cable for about 5 years now and it works fine between 2.2 enabled devices including my oppo 203 and 6040.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

rayians said:


> I received my Oppo 203 4k player today and paired it with my Epson 5040UB. I bought a "high end" Monoprice 40' HDMI that swore up and down it handled HMDI 2.2 up to 100'. Well, long story short, it doesn't. Just to be sure it was the Monoprice HDMI, I hooked up the Oppo directly to the HDMI 2.2 port using the Oppo HDMI cable, and sure enough it was the Monoprice cable.
> 
> Now for the really disappointing part. I compared side by side images of a 4k disc and a regular blu ray disc of the same movie, and the blu ray disc BY FAR had a brighter, more vibrant image. I played with the settings for a while and got it better, but now the blacks are lacking and the colors and whites still pop more from the blu ray. After 2 hours of tinkering, the regular blu ray image is still quite superior the the 4k image.
> 
> I know it's a setting of some sort, can anyone give me any advice where to start?




Digital Cinema mode default HDR 1. Don't base your opinion off of one blu ray/UHD. Some UHD movies are not that great.

Also understand that brighter doesn't' always mean better. HDR improves shadow detail, and improves color vibrancy as well as black levels.

It took me awhile to appreciate the difference, and to process what I was seeing.

I suggest you watch a few different 4k UHD discs first. 

if you want to see the difference in color accuracy and detail the opening of Everest really is amazing. It almost looks like video on the 4k disc. on the pan of Everest notice the variety of colors, browns and greys in the rocks vs the Blu Ray.

Hope this helps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

swyda038 said:


> Does both HDMI ports on the 5040ub accept a 4k signal? The issue I have is that I have an HDMI cable in the wall that is 2.0 but not hdcp 2.2 capable (it is 1.4) I can get a converter to convert the hdcp 2.2 signal coming out of my reciever, to hdcp 1.4 before it connects to my in wall hdmi 2.0 hdcp 1.4, while still allowing the 4k information through, but will the 5040ub non hdcp 2.2 port accept the 4k information at the hdcp 1.4 level? If not, will the hdcp 2.2 port accept a hdcp 1.4 4k signal?
> 
> thanks everyone!


HDMI 2 will accept 4K, but HDMI 1 will not if it is not HDCP2.2, IIRC.


----------



## therecanbeonly1

Is there any way of saving a 'blanking' setting with a saved lens position?


----------



## ht guy

*Any other Panamorph users?*

I've got a UH440 lens and notice Panamorph touts the current two lens choices as "4K compatible."

Any other Panamorph users who might know if the UH440 will work with the 5040?


----------



## Smarty-pants

ht guy said:


> I've got a UH440 lens and notice Panamorph touts the current two lens choices as "4K compatible."
> 
> Any other Panamorph users who might know if the UH440 will work with the 5040?


I doubt that any anamorphic lens would be any more or any less compatible with 4K than it is with any other resolution.
They are likely just saying "4K compatible" as a marketing gimmick to attract new customers with 4K projectors.
I am not intimately familiar with the UH440 and it's aperture, but it's highly likely that it will be just fine with the 5040.


----------



## ht guy

Smarty-pants said:


> I doubt that any anamorphic lens would be any more or any less compatible with 4K than it is with any other resolution.
> They are likely just saying "4K compatible" as a marketing gimmick to attract new customers with 4K projectors.
> I am not intimately familiar with the UH440 and it's aperture, but it's highly likely that it will be just fine with the 5040.


Thanks SP! That makes sense.

...now just to figure out if the 5040 will fit on the Panamorph AK6 mounting plate I already own...


----------



## Smarty-pants

swyda038 said:


> Thanks for your interest in this and feedback. I am trying to avoid having to re-fish a new hdmi cable that is hdcp 2.2 through the walls and having to re-drywall and paint. My current hdmi cable is 2.0 and can handle 4k UHD resolution 60mhz, etc. but doesn't have the hdcp capability 2.2. The converter I was looking at was an HD Fury Integral which seems like it can transfer the 4k signal and simply decodes the 2.2 into 1.4, but I wasn't sure if that could work with the Epson 5040ub HDMI inputs and still provide the 4k image quality. If not, I will just bite the bullet and re-fish a new hdmi cable.


Cables are about bandwidth, and really aren't specifically related to resolution/HDCP/HDR etc...
It just happens to be that 4K @ 60Hz with 4:4:4 is going to require the most bandwidth to travel through a cable,
so potentially you need to have a cable that can transport those signals.

My advice would be to try your cable first before buying a HDfury.
There are also other methods too, like I think Monoprice sells a cheaper HDCP 2.2=>1.4 converter,
but I have not used it and do not know any details about it. Maybe the HDfury is a better product if you choose to go that route.

Even if you are able to send something like 4K/4:2:0/8b via HDMI 1.4 to the Epson, you could still probably use the HDMI-1 input.
However nothing is guaranteed these days, and the only way to know for sure is to try it first hand.
Again once I get some time I can try pushing upscaled 4K from my Oppo BDP-105D to the 5040 and see what happens.


----------



## spirithockey79

therecanbeonly1 said:


> Is there any way of saving a 'blanking' setting with a saved lens position?




Nope. Would be nice if they could add it to a FW update though. It does remember blanking settings by source though. Not really a big help though. It's a pain when going back and forth between a 1.78 movie and a scope movie that you've "blanked" due to changing aspect ratio.


----------



## gnolivos

Blanking is almost useless anyway. In most cases people use it incorrectly from my experience. And I have read every post in this thread.


----------



## mwaarna

evoZip said:


> Had kept up with the first 90some pages...lot of new info/pages since then that I haven't been able to check through all, but did try a search with no help
> 
> xBox one (S)...USB hard drive. Trying to play a 3D movie, and I get the split screen on each of them. How do I blend them? My only other 3D display is an LG tv, and I press the 3D button and it brings up images asking "how is the image displayed- split vertically or horizontally" and it's as simple as that.
> 
> 3D is enabled on xbox...anyone know what I'm missing here?
> 
> Thanks!


Under image there is an option for 3D. It's set on automatic. You need to manually switch it to 3D. 

Also the 3D option is grayed out if a 4k signal is detected. With my ps4 pro I had to turn 4k off, and then play the 3D files from plex.


----------



## therecanbeonly1

gnolivos said:


> Blanking is almost useless anyway. In most cases people use it incorrectly from my experience. And I have read every post in this thread.


In what way, please elaborate.


----------



## audvid

swyda038 said:


> Does both HDMI ports on the 5040ub accept a 4k signal? The issue I have is that I have an HDMI cable in the wall that is 2.0 but not hdcp 2.2 capable (it is 1.4) I can get a converter to convert the hdcp 2.2 signal coming out of my reciever, to hdcp 1.4 before it connects to my in wall hdmi 2.0 hdcp 1.4, while still allowing the 4k information through, but will the 5040ub non hdcp 2.2 port accept the 4k information at the hdcp 1.4 level? If not, will the hdcp 2.2 port accept a hdcp 1.4 4k signal?
> 
> thanks everyone!


I don't think the issue is whether your cable is hdcp 1.4 or 2.2 capable. There is no hdcp capability for a cable. The only capability is the bit rate.. And most often, cables like yours would work just fine. Why not try it? I am assuming that the 4k capable cables need to be certified for 18+ gbps.. 
ps: i just saw the post by smarty pants. He is right. it is just about band width.. Your cable will probably work just fine.


----------



## gnolivos

therecanbeonly1 said:


> In what way, please elaborate.




Quickly searching for Blanking on this thread will give you all the details. Or I can do the search and paste in here for you. But I'd rather not.


----------



## sddp

gnolivos said:


> Nope. My opinion is don't bother! Use a regular 1080p non 4K converting player and let the Epson do the upconversion. It looks very very good and in some cases can look superb.
> 
> Also this way you gain the ability to use frame interpolation should you decide to use that. I use it for concert blurays and action sports blurays.




And don't forget you can also use the Darbee DVP5000S to get more detail out of it on top of the Epson 4K eShift. So for the first time in human history you can have your cake and eat it too.
Or double dip lol


----------



## DireWolf08

I am getting really bad 3D ghosting on some content. 3D looks great on Guardians of the Galaxy, but lots of ghosting on Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. Any way to tweak or improve 3D performance?


----------



## seplant

Has anyone seriously considered designing a hush box for these projectors? Setting the power consumption to the High setting really gives 3D blu-rays the extra punch they need, but the fan noise is deafening. I don't have any 4K material yet, but could that also help brighten up HDR content?

I haven't noticed any ghosting or other issues with 3D using the default 3D settings. Are there any particular scenes in Harry Potter that seemed worse than others?

By the way, I tried the 3ACTIVE glasses and found them to work well, but they don't fit very well over my glasses. I found the XPAND glasses, available at Best Buy for $39.99 fit perfectly and work at least as well as the 3ACTIVE glasses.


----------



## bluer101

sddp said:


> And don't forget you can also use the Darbee DVP5000S to get more detail out of it on top of the Epson 4K eShift. So for the first time in human history you can have your cake and eat it too.
> Or double dip lol


Just got my 5040 today and playing with it now. 

I have basically out the box settings. 

I only changed the auto iris to normal, power to eco, FI to low, and 4K enhancement to 3. Then have my Oppo 103d darbee setting to high def 35%. 

I cannot believe the picture over my Benq w1070. You see so much more detail and contrast.


----------



## spirithockey79

gnolivos said:


> Blanking is almost useless anyway. In most cases people use it incorrectly from my experience. And I have read every post in this thread.




It's not useless when you have a scope screen and don't want to be annoyed by movies that change aspect ratios like TDK or others shot with some IMAX.


----------



## Savatage316

bluer101 said:


> Just got my 5040 today and playing with it now.
> 
> I have basically out the box settings.
> 
> I only changed the auto iris to normal, power to eco, FI to low, and 4K enhancement to 3. Then have my Oppo 103d darbee setting to high def 35%.
> 
> I cannot believe the picture over my Benq w1070. You see so much more detail and contrast.


Yea same, I had a BenQ 2050 and while I loved it... This pj blows it away, not even close to comparison. And the 4k content is simply mind blowing.


----------



## dvdwilly3

For anyone holding out on a purchase of a faux K projector such as one of the Epsons, to see what kind of competition the new JVC true 4K projector might pose against the higly priced true 4K Sony line, it appears that the question has been answered...

MSRP $35,000...

The 5040/6040 looks better and better...


----------



## bluer101

Been playing around this morning. I was doing comparison between the Benq and the 5040. I still have my Benq ceiling mounted and the 5040 below it shooting just over my seats temporarily. 

One thing I noticed this morning and no matter what settings I have tried, when watching DIRECTV I get a noticeable slight jump or jitter in the picture. I can make it happen easy when having the guide open. If I push the bottom to browse the guide every time you hit the button the picture jumps very slightly. On some DIRECTV menus it does the same thing. I know it's not just when in menus and guides because when I watch say NFL or something like CNN / fox, you can see the jump in the bottom ticker or text. Like anything that has a fixed image, but the whole image jumps. 

I tried straight to the 5040 from the DIRECTV box, reset DTV box, menu setting, all types of 5040 settings (FI, 4K enhance, etc) and nothing works. 

Funny thing is it does not do,it on my Benq or Sony tv. Also if I bring up the 5040 menu the menu does not jump, but the DIRECTV image behind does. Any things I can try. 

Below is bluray 1080p daytime bright sun closed drapes.


----------



## dholmes54

When changing HDMI cables to see which is better,do you guys power down your equipment?


----------



## ndabunka

Smarty-pants said:


> Wrong. HDMI 1.4 CAN transmit 4K resolution.


Sigh. It may be capable of (limited) 4K support as it simply does not have the bandwidth that many need for 4K usage. It will not support it at the 60Hz frame rate. Here is a quote for reference:

"*HDMI 1.4 supported 4K resolutions, yes, but only at 24 or 30 frames per second.* That works fine for movies, but isn't useful for gaming and many TV broadcasts, which require 50 or 60 fps."


https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=can+hdmi+1.4+support+4K

My PRIMARY point was that once you "convert" DOWN to 1.4 you can't simply "up-convert" back to a higher bandwidth. 

That logic doesn't work. It's like saying "I have a huge ocean and I am going to funnel it into a small channel and then when it gets to the other side of that channel, it will be an ocean again". That may be partially true IF you do not take into consideration all the variables. Certainly the other side could... EVENTUALLY become an ocean but the signal is REAL TIME traffic and you need TIME to build the ocean on the other side and that is one thing you are not afforded so...
you can't simply "up-convert" a 1.4 to a 2.0 HDMI on that other side of the channel and expect it to have 2.0 bandwidth


----------



## ndabunka

bluer101 said:


> Been playing around this morning. I was doing comparison between the Benq and the 5040. I still have my Benq ceiling mounted and the 5040 below it shooting just over my seats temporarily.
> 
> One thing I noticed this morning and no matter what settings I have tried, when watching DIRECTV I get a noticeable slight jump or jitter in the picture. I can make it happen easy when having the guide open. If I push the bottom to browse the guide every time you hit the button the picture jumps very slightly. On some DIRECTV menus it does the same thing. I know it's not just when in menus and guides because when I watch say NFL or something like CNN / fox, you can see the jump in the bottom ticker or text. Like anything that has a fixed image, but the whole image jumps.
> 
> I tried straight to the 5040 from the DIRECTV box, reset DTV box, menu setting, all types of 5040 settings (FI, 4K enhance, etc) and nothing works.
> 
> Funny thing is it does not do,it on my Benq or Sony tv. Also if I bring up the 5040 menu the menu does not jump, but the DIRECTV image behind does. Any things I can try.
> 
> Below is bluray 1080p daytime bright sun closed drapes.


I don't KNOW that this is the case but others have reported that menus often run at a different frequency than the picture signals


----------



## bluer101

ndabunka said:


> I don't KNOW that this is the case but others have reported that menus often run at a different frequency than the picture signals


I thought about that too, but with no menus up I can still see the jumping. 

I have been playing around and it will not do it when I change DIRECTV to 720p or if I watch a 1080p on demand movie. So right there it has something to do with 1080i interlaced. 

It does not happen on my tv or Benq being fed the same box. So maybe it's a hiccup with the 5040. Plot thickens.


----------



## drhankz

bluer101 said:


> I thought about that too, but with no menus up I can still see the jumping.
> 
> I have been playing around and it will not do it when I change DIRECTV to 720p or if I watch a 1080p on demand movie. So right there it has something to do with 1080i interlaced.
> 
> It does not happen on my tv or Benq being fed the same box. So maybe it's a hiccup with the 5040. Plot thickens.


 If you had CABLE versus Satellite it would not jump around


----------



## bluer101

drhankz said:


> If you had CABLE versus Satellite it would not jump around


Lol, I had Comcast until 10 months ago. Our hoa got rid of Comcast. 

Everything works perfect before I introduced the 5040 yesterday. I just think the 5040 has an issue with interlaced. I'm going to try other things.


----------



## drhankz

bluer101 said:


> Lol, I had Comcast until 10 months ago. Our hoa got rid of Comcast.
> 
> Everything works perfect before I introduced the 5040 yesterday. I just think the 5040 has an issue with interlaced. I'm going to try other things.



The fact it worked before means nothing


----------



## bluer101

drhankz said:


> The fact it worked before means nothing


Your right, but I have bypassed everything in the chain and directly connected to the 5040. Also tried multiple hdmi cables to rule things out. The fact I can reproduce it with interlaced vs progressive means something being sent or decoded by the 5040 is not right.


----------



## Rob Simkow

dholmes54 said:


> When changing HDMI cables to see which is better,do you guys power down your equipment?


I've never powered down anything, just remove the old one and connect the new one.


----------



## ndabunka

bluer101 said:


> Your right, but I have bypassed everything in the chain and directly connected to the 5040. Also tried multiple hdmi cables to rule things out. The fact I can reproduce it with interlaced vs progressive means something being sent or decoded by the 5040 is not right.


Why even bother with an interlaced signal AT ALL? Just change the the Sat receivers ouput to 720p as that is the same volume of content as 1080i


----------



## bluer101

ndabunka said:


> Why even bother with an interlaced signal AT ALL? Just change the the Sat receivers ouput to 720p as that is the same volume of content as 1080i


That is what I have done for now.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs Rob


----------



## bluer101

Ok guys I figured the jumping / jitter out.


----------



## Smarty-pants

ndabunka said:


> Sigh. It may be capable of (limited) 4K support as it simply does not have the bandwidth that many need for 4K usage. It will not support it at the 60Hz frame rate. Here is a quote for reference:
> 
> "*HDMI 1.4 supported 4K resolutions, yes, but only at 24 or 30 frames per second.* That works fine for movies, but isn't useful for gaming and many TV broadcasts, which require 50 or 60 fps."
> 
> 
> https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=can+hdmi+1.4+support+4K
> 
> My PRIMARY point was that once you "convert" DOWN to 1.4 you can't simply "up-convert" back to a higher bandwidth.
> 
> That logic doesn't work. It's like saying "I have a huge ocean and I am going to funnel it into a small channel and then when it gets to the other side of that channel, it will be an ocean again". That may be partially true IF you do not take into consideration all the variables. Certainly the other side could... EVENTUALLY become an ocean but the signal is REAL TIME traffic and you need TIME to build the ocean on the other side and that is one thing you are not afforded so...
> you can't simply "up-convert" a 1.4 to a 2.0 HDMI on that other side of the channel and expect it to have 2.0 bandwidth


I'm glad you looked that up, so now you know. 

The OP never actually said anything about converting 2.2 to 1.4 and then back to 2.2 again.
He just wanted to convert 2.2 to 1.4 since his in-wall cable might not be up to snuff.

It remains unknown if he could convert down to 1.4 and still retain 4K, even it it's limited to 4:2:0 / 8b / 24/30.
Retain WCG and HDR too?... I doubt that. Probably just better to be content with the conversion to 1.4.
BEsides, his cable may actually work fine for 2.2 based on his description.


----------



## ndabunka

bluer101 said:


> Ok guys I figured the jumping / jitter out.


and it was...


----------



## bluer101

ndabunka said:


> and it was...


Advanced

Deinterlacing 

Deinterlacing: sets whether to convert interlaced-to-progressive signals for certain video image types

• Off: for fast-moving video images
• Video: for most video images
• Film/Auto: for movies, computer graphics, and animation

It was set for Film/Auto by default, changing to Video solved it.


----------



## SALadder22FF

trainfan said:


> so in wireless mode it will not support a 4k signal ? "(4k x 2k) or 3840 x 2160"
> then what is the point of even offering the wireless version ???


Did you ever get an answer for this?


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours.


----------



## Rob Simkow

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours.
> 
> That stinks; hopefully it's an easy fix.


----------



## brianlvi3

Fast questions. I just took down my 5020UB and installed my 5040UBE. Haven't had time to play with the settings yet. I see about updating firmware on the 5040. Will it be able to be set up to connect to the internet using Wi Fi for updates?

Also will the 3D glasses from my 5020 be able to be used with the 5040?

Thanks.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Rob Simkow said:


> flapjackdowntheline said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours.
> 
> That stinks; hopefully it's an easy fix.
> 
> 
> 
> Just for kicks I decided to update the firmware, which'd I'd been putting off. No more error message. That's good, I hope.
Click to expand...


----------



## rupedogg24

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours.


That stinks. Try every including a hard reset of at all possible. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

Does anyone know if the 5040 can be controlled by iRule thru IP?


----------



## trainfan

Oledurt said:


> can't get lens memory to work right. I have a new cinemascope widescreen. I have saved the lens setting for 16x9 perfectly accurate, but when I zoom out and save the lens memory for the 2.40.1 aspect ratio it does not accurately recall that position. For example, I hit lens 2 it moves to the 16x9 setting perfectly. I hit lens 1 it goes back to widescreen setting however it is off from the original saved setting.
> 
> i have saved, readjusted, and re saved countless times, no matter what I do it will not accurately save that zoomed out wide lens position accurately


You have to setup your zoom and alignment then let it just sit there for at least 2 minutes then save it
It is a known bug, but will finally save your setting correctly


----------



## trainfan

SALadder22FF said:


> trainfan said:
> 
> 
> 
> so in wireless mode it will not support a 4k signal ? "(4k x 2k) or 3840 x 2160"
> then what is the point of even offering the wireless version ???
> 
> 
> 
> Did you ever get an answer for this?
Click to expand...

Yes it will


----------



## Raffy87

bluer101 said:


> Does anyone know if the 5040 can be controlled by iRule thru IP?


It's my understanding you can't. I'm running Simple Control; while not iRule, if I understand correctly they both operate under the same premise. I control my 5040 through an iTach IR Remitter that Simple Control recognizes. I stuck the transmitter onto the back sensor of the projector. Works great! I would think you'd be able to do the same thing with iRule. I'm hoping I'll be to control via IP at some point but haven't been able to yet.


----------



## bluer101

Raffy87 said:


> It's my understanding you can't. I'm running Simple Control; while not iRule, if I understand correctly they both operate under the same premise. I control my 5040 through an iTach IR Remitter that Simple Control recognizes. I stuck the transmitter onto the back sensor of the projector. Works great! I would think you'd be able to do the same thing with iRule. I'm hoping I'll be to control via IP at some point but haven't been able to yet.


Thanks, I might mess around and see what I can come up with.


----------



## brianlvi3

Hey guys, 

Finished setting up my 3 new components. Epson 5040UBE, Marantz 7702mkll and Oppo 203 bluray player. Here is what is happening and I am not sure exactly where to start. I have checked and re-checked all cables.

No matter what I am watching, cable TV or a bluray, I get intermittent drop outs off my Epson. I do have a long run using a Key Digital and cat cable, approx. 60 feet.

I was watching the Denver game and the picture and sound dropped out off and on. It will run good for say 20 minutes, than it kind of glitches and the screen goes black for a second or 2, than right back to normal. It might do it a few times in a row on and off. Than it stays on for 20 minutes.

I am going to try using my Sony 55 inch 4K TV which is in the set up also to see if it drops out also. I am going to also try the wireless today.

Thanks again.


----------



## aaranddeeman

brianlvi3 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Finished setting up my 3 new components. Epson 5040UBE, Marantz 7702mkll and Oppo 203 bluray player. Here is what is happening and I am not sure exactly where to start. I have checked and re-checked all cables.
> 
> No matter what I am watching, cable TV or a bluray, I get intermittent drop outs off my Epson. I do have a long run using a Key Digital and cat cable, approx. 60 feet.
> 
> I was watching the Denver game and the picture and sound dropped out off and on. It will run good for say 20 minutes, than it kind of glitches and the screen goes black for a second or 2, than right back to normal. It might do it a few times in a row on and off. Than it stays on for 20 minutes.
> 
> I am going to try using my Sony 55 inch 4K TV which is in the set up also to see if it drops out also. I am going to also try the wireless today.
> 
> Thanks again.


If you got UBE, why are you even trying the 60' cable. 
Connect wirelessly and see if that solves the problem.


----------



## brianlvi3

aaranddeeman said:


> If you got UBE, why are you even trying the 60' cable.
> Connect wirelessly and see if that solves the problem.


I was hoping not to but because of my long run I could fall back on wireless. Can I run one of my HDMI outputs on the Marantz 7702 into the wireless Epson transmitter and will it be able to output all of the inputs on the Marantz?


----------



## Dave Harper

ndabunka said:


> Why even bother with an interlaced signal AT ALL? Just change the the Sat receivers ouput to 720p as that is the same volume of content as 1080i



That is SO not true! 1080i has the same spatial resolution as 1080p. It's just split into two separate fields rather than one full frame but when properly deinterlaced it is exactly the same as 1080p. 

1080i has far more picture information than 720p. Just ask Comcast customers who've had their systems switched over from most all native 1080i channels being switched to 720p (along with their conversion to mpeg4). There are many, many reports of how bad it looks. They've compared old recorded shows at 1080i to the newer 720p ones and it's easy to see the loss in resolution. 

I started a huge thread on this issue over at tivocommunityforum.com 



brianlvi3 said:


> I was hoping not to but because of my long run I could fall back on wireless. Can I run one of my HDMI outputs on the Marantz 7702 into the wireless Epson transmitter and will it be able to output all of the inputs on the Marantz?



Yes that will work.


----------



## SALadder22FF

My ube will drop the signal when I switch over to the roku and sometimes when a youtube starts. It gets it back in a few seconds but it's quite annoying drop out every time I switch


----------



## motsu

Hey, Im thinking about getting this projector, but there are a few things i have not been able to find... hopefully some owners could help me out.

1) what is the max refresh rate when displaying 1080p video? Epsons website does not have any info on the supported refresh rates for different resolutions, and the only images i have seen online of info screens show 29.9hz

2) is there noticeable delay on the automatic / dynamic iris? im worried the screen will noticeably flick darker during dark scenes.

3) has the issues mentioned in the beginning of the thread in regard to color space been fixed? im planning on using a media pc with an rx 480 which should be able to push 4:4:4 @ 4k60 with YCbCr 10 bit, still not sure if the 480 can do rec. 2020, or if thats 10 bit rec 709 (if anyone knows if the 1060 v rx480 is better in this regard... let me know!). regardless of what gpu i go with, i want to make sure that this projector would work with a media PC and not just one brand of bluray player.

Thanks!


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> Also understand that brighter doesn't' always mean better. HDR improves shadow detail, and improves color vibrancy as well as black levels.
> 
> It took me awhile to appreciate the difference, and to process what I was seeing.


I have to agree here after watching a couple of UHD disks.
Now I am liking the way HDR gives that depth. I could watch X-Men even in Cinema mode (with lens iris at -5)

*Caution* : Don't start with "The Martian". That movie will depress you in the HDR department, because it's bit dark to begin with.


----------



## c.kingsley

Does anyone know if there is documentation on discrete IR codes for the 5040? I'm looking to activate specific custom memory slots (not lens memory) while changing sources with a Harmony remote. I can program a macro to an unused button to do this after switching inputs but this isn't a very elegant solution for the family.


----------



## seplant

c.kingsley said:


> Does anyone know if there is documentation on discrete IR codes for the 5040? I'm looking to activate specific custom memory slots (not lens memory) while changing sources with a Harmony remote. I can program a macro to an unused button to do this after switching inputs but this isn't a very elegant solution for the family.



I asked Epson about IR codes just this week, and here is the reply I received: "The following IR Codes are not going to be available for your projector but the information or link below should help resolve the issue.

https://files.support.epson.com/Epson_Handbook/assets/content/proddetails/download/pdf/ESCVP21_e_P.pdf"

They also sent the attached spreadsheet. I then asked if that meant discrete infrared codes do not exist for many of the commands available in the sub menus of the 6040 and can only be directly commanded by using the ESC/VP21 protocol. 

Here is the Epson response to that: "That is correct, there are no direct links/codes to the sub-menus. The Esc VP-21 guide that is attached also applies to setup and command control for home theater".


I'm clueless on how to use the ESC VP-21 protocol. I did a search in the Remote Control area of the forum, but pretty much came up empty. Can anyone provide any links to information on how to control Epson projectors using this protocol. like a beginner's guide? Thanks.


----------



## cwilli01

terminal33 said:


> If you go to Amazon and search for "Epson 5040ub mount," it's the first mount that shows up - "Epson 5040UB Projector Mount with optional extension pole by Vega A/V Systems." Currently selling for $49.95.




I bought one of these mounts. Installation is a snap so far, but it only comes with 4 washers - where are these supposed to be used? I can see needing washers for where the mount connects to the projector, but they were packaged with the allen wrench, which leads me to believe that they are supposed to be used with the allen bolts (where you mount the upper half of the mount with the lower half of the mount)... 


Any thoughts?


Thanks,


Chuck


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

Ordered a hdfury integral and linker. Gonna see what I can get from my Xbox one s


----------



## c.kingsley

seplant said:


> I'm clueless on how to use the ESC VP-21 protocol. I did a search in the Remote Control area of the forum, but pretty much came up empty. Can anyone provide any links to information on how to control Epson projectors using this protocol. like a beginner's guide?


From a quick glance at the document it's a serial protocol so it would require another device, like a computer, to send the codes to the projector. I also didn't see any reference to the 5040 product line in that document but it could be fairly generic to all Epson projectors. Even then, I don't see a code in there for accessing a discrete memory slot.


----------



## seplant

c.kingsley said:


> From a quick glance at the document it's a serial protocol so it would require another device, like a computer, to send the codes to the projector. I also didn't see any reference to the 5040 product line in that document but it could be fairly generic to all Epson projectors. Even then, I don't see a code in there for accessing a discrete memory slot.


The TW9300 is the Europeon version of the 5040. See row 156 of the TW9300 tab of the spreadsheet posted earlier. That command function is named "Call of Memory". 

Like I said previously, I have no clue where to start to get this to work. I have a computer available, but I don't know how to get IR/RF commands from my Harmony remote to the computer and then how to get the computer to understand those commands and then relay them to the projector. 

Maybe we should keep this thread on topic and start a new thread in the Remote Control area about RS232 control of Epson projectors.


----------



## bluer101

seplant said:


> The TW9300 is the Europeon version of the 5040. See row 156 of the TW9300 tab of the spreadsheet posted earlier. That command function is named "Call of Memory".
> 
> Like I said previously, I have no clue where to start to get this to work. I have a computer available, but I don't know how to get IR/RF commands from my Harmony remote to the computer and then how to get the computer to understand those commands and then relay them to the projector.
> 
> Maybe we should keep this thread on topic and start a new thread in the Remote Control area about RS232 control of Epson projectors.



These codes are for network control, like iRule. I'm going to add the 5040 to my iRule setup soon and will be playing with these.


----------



## elmalloc

Is the 6040 the only version that supports anamorphic lenses (with squeeze/stretch)? Paying a lot more just for that feature if so, otherwise I'd pick up a 5040 now.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> LENS MEMORY RECALL EPSON RESPONSE AND SOLUTION
> 
> All, important update here from Epson today regarding the inaccurate lens memory recall that we have been experiencing. Here is a copy paste of their response. Please read in detail...
> 
> The gist of it is, you should move your lens shift in One Direction only, and never step back for final adjustments. I have yet to test this.
> -----------------
> 
> Sorry for our late reply on this matter, we were checking with our engineers.
> 
> Here is the reply from the engineers on this matter;
> 
> We have done the test of lens shift position memory in the QC process on multiple units.
> The recalled position accuracy of the units tested were each within spec.
> 
> SEC engineers confirmed that the shift amount between recalled position and original position is within 5.5 mm or less as actual measurement value.
> 
> There is a possibility of bad accuracy caused by the procedure for fitting in the screen when customers memorizes the different positions.
> 
> As a precaution, when you fit the display position to the screen, you should avoid moving the lens shift in the opposite direction.
> Please refer to the attached file named “Epson PC 4040-6040UB HC 5040UB-5040UBe Lens shift position memory.pdf" for a better explanation, and try to use this method when setting lens memory positions.
> 
> If you move the lens shift "step by step" to opposite direction for fine-tuning, the moving amount will not be counted correctly by sensor. As a result, a memorized position will be shifted from target, and the bad accuracy of recalled position occurs.
> This is caused by a factor coming from the mechanical structure and the position monitoring method by sensor.
> 
> Unfortunately, SEC hasn't been able to find a better solution for accuracy improvement.
> 
> Thank you again for your patience in this matter.
> We hope this helps!
> 
> 
> Spoiler


This is good explanation.
I just realized one thing though, how do you move to "Default" position. With the steps explained here, to go to your first lens position, one should start from default position (the way it came from factory). Because it is retaining the position co-ordinates in relation to the current position and that current is nothing but the factory default position. 
I am not at my projector right now, else would have checked. But I may have missed if there was a button click to move it to it's original position.
Does anyone know?


----------



## gnolivos

I had the same question. But I then figured it doesn't really need to be defaulted prior to setting your desired position. 

Just move it well away from your final intended position. Then move the image in ONE direction only vertically. And then in ONE direction horizontally. Make sure more than 10 clicks are needed. Done.


----------



## ndabunka

seplant said:


> The TW9300 is the Europeon version of the 5040. See row 156 of the TW9300 tab of the spreadsheet posted earlier. That command function is named "Call of Memory".
> 
> Like I said previously, I have no clue where to start to get this to work. I have a computer available, but I don't know how to get IR/RF commands from my Harmony remote to the computer and then how to get the computer to understand those commands and then relay them to the projector.
> 
> Maybe we should keep this thread on topic and start a new thread in the Remote Control area about RS232 control of Epson projectors.


You might be able to use something like the Global Cache to "capture" IR signals and then use it's RS232 interface to send a signal to the computer. From there you could condition the response and then send an IP command to the projector... forget it. Not realy worth it, right? LOL


----------



## ht guy

elmalloc said:


> Is the 6040 the only version that supports anamorphic lenses (with squeeze/stretch)? Paying a lot more just for that feature if so, otherwise I'd pick up a 5040 now.


That is apparently true, but I've also got an A-lens and am planning to use the BD203 for vertical stretch.


----------



## elmalloc

ht guy said:


> That is apparently true, but I've also got an A-lens and am planning to use the BD203 for vertical stretch.


Well ,that makes the decision a lot more interesting.

I have a Sim2 HT380 with lens and it throws a beautiful picture. It's about 8 years old now, I have to imagine the Epson 5040/6040 is better, but I'm not sure if I should make the switch.

Do you think the BD203 will squeeze as well as the projector would?

Thanks!
ELmO


----------



## aaranddeeman

gnolivos said:


> I had the same question. But I then figured it doesn't really need to be defaulted prior to setting your desired position.
> 
> Just move it well away from your final intended position. Then move the image in ONE direction only vertically. And then in ONE direction horizontally. Make sure more than 10 clicks are needed. Done.


OK. Thanks.
Wonder how it maintains the reference.


----------



## Mike Johnson 3

Hi guys. I'm doing an awful lot of head scratching here...

I recently bought a Sony 940D with Panasonic ub900 and my wife is bugging me to return the Sony and go with the 5040ube

We watched a few movies on Christmas and she was very unimpressed with the 75" screen size. She is used to our older Epson tw1000 (I know, it's very ancient & low end) and 100" screen. On the other hand, I'm more impressed with the clarity of the 940D. 

The room I'd use for projection is just a living room in a condo, with blinds and curtains blocking most of the light. Viewing would be done mostly at night anyhow, so not much chance of ambient lighting, other than a little nearby kitchen light-bleed.

My dilemma is: forgetting my obsession with tech specs, which is going to provide a better cinema experience? Especially with the 4k UHD format I've been chasing and now have with my Panny/Sony setup.

I was toying with the idea of keeping using my spare Sony 65x850C if I need any day time viewing, but that gets awkward because I'd be using a a fixed projector screen and the 65" Sony can't occupy the same space.

I'm really asking for some of your opinions and would greatly appreciate any feedback


----------



## elmalloc

One can never go smaller. Go larger!


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

brianlvi3 said:


> I was hoping not to but because of my long run I could fall back on wireless. Can I run one of my HDMI outputs on the Marantz 7702 into the wireless Epson transmitter and will it be able to output all of the inputs on the Marantz?


Yes. That's exactly how I'm setup. Denon receiver has 4 HDMI input sources (Tivo Bolt, XB1, PS4, gaming PC) and one output to the wireless transmitter. So far I've been very pleased with the wireless setup. Yes, switching sources, resolutions, and refresh rate takes a bit longer, but once it's connected I've not experienced any drop outs or obvious latency issues, and I've done quite a bit of gaming where I'd expect to have noticed latency. 

Granted, my transmitter is on a shelf about 12' from and directly in front of the projector. Projector always reports 100% signal. It's very sensitive to obstruction, though, given the frequency its using. If I stick my hand in the line of sight, I can watch the signal strength reduce significantly and can even cause drop outs.


----------



## Savatage316

Question, I have a nice silver ticket fixed screen... But if I ever wanted to go larger I'd most like have to get a pull down for how this room is setup. But I hate how they aren't fixed, or are they fairly firm, who uses a pull down?


----------



## bluer101

Savatage316 said:


> Question, I have a nice silver ticket fixed screen... But if I ever wanted to go larger I'd most like have to get a pull down for how this room is setup. But I hate how they aren't fixed, or are they fairly firm, who uses a pull down?


I have a 100" electric elite screen.


----------



## motsu

bluer101 said:


> I have a 100" electric elite screen.


How do you like it, and what model is it? I was looking at some of their tab tensioned motorized screens in the 500 dollar range. From most of the reviews online it seems like a great screen. 

Can you manually stop the screen before it gets all the way down? I would love to gettoh something up for wide screen movies while still owning a 16:9 screen


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

So saw some more crosstalk than my 5030ub. I found by adjusting the 3d brightness to LOW and turning the lamp to high greatly reduces the crosstalk. I adjusted lamp brightness to high to compensate and use dynamic. image is MUCH clearer. Also turned the interpolation to low which helped. Even when setting screen to 120" (which adjusts the 3d depth), I have little crosstalk.


----------



## ndabunka

Mike Johnson 3 said:


> Hi guys. I'm doing an awful lot of head scratching here...
> 
> I recently bought a Sony 940D with Panasonic ub900 and my wife is bugging me to return the Sony and go with the 5040ube
> 
> We watched a few movies on Christmas and she was very unimpressed with the 75" screen size. She is used to our older Epson tw1000 (I know, it's very ancient & low end) and 100" screen. On the other hand, I'm more impressed with the clarity of the 940D.
> 
> The room I'd use for projection is just a living room in a condo, with blinds and curtains blocking most of the light. Viewing would be done mostly at night anyhow, so not much chance of ambient lighting, other than a little nearby kitchen light-bleed.
> 
> My dilemma is: forgetting my obsession with tech specs, which is going to provide a better cinema experience? Especially with the 4k UHD format I've been chasing and now have with my Panny/Sony setup.
> 
> I was toying with the idea of keeping using my spare Sony 65x850C if I need any day time viewing, but that gets awkward because I'd be using a a fixed projector screen and the 65" Sony can't occupy the same space.
> 
> I'm really asking for some of your opinions and would greatly appreciate any feedback


As long as you don't have any plans to play game consoles on the 5040, you really SHOULD go back to a projector for movies. The 5040 will do an AMAZING job with that 100" screen and should even be bright enough for daytime viewing as well.

I have a powered 120" screen that I drop in front of the 55" LED that is in the room if you are curious about what others do in these situations


----------



## Ronman79

Mike Johnson 3 said:


> Hi guys. I'm doing an awful lot of head scratching here...
> 
> I recently bought a Sony 940D with Panasonic ub900 and my wife is bugging me to return the Sony and go with the 5040ube
> 
> We watched a few movies on Christmas and she was very unimpressed with the 75" screen size. She is used to our older Epson tw1000 (I know, it's very ancient & low end) and 100" screen. On the other hand, I'm more impressed with the clarity of the 940D.
> 
> The room I'd use for projection is just a living room in a condo, with blinds and curtains blocking most of the light. Viewing would be done mostly at night anyhow, so not much chance of ambient lighting, other than a little nearby kitchen light-bleed.
> 
> My dilemma is: forgetting my obsession with tech specs, which is going to provide a better cinema experience? Especially with the 4k UHD format I've been chasing and now have with my Panny/Sony setup.
> 
> I was toying with the idea of keeping using my spare Sony 65x850C if I need any day time viewing, but that gets awkward because I'd be using a a fixed projector screen and the 65" Sony can't occupy the same space.
> 
> I'm really asking for some of your opinions and would greatly appreciate any feedback


Mike, there are many, many people here and elsewhere who are extremely excited and pleased with their 5040/6040 setups. And, there's something to be said about scale....bigger screen creates a more immersive experience. Also, as opposed to the comment above, many people are extremely happy with gaming on it too. There are some problems with getting HDR gaming from the newer consoles, but as a whole, gaming is supposed to be very good on the Epson....


----------



## Savatage316

ndabunka said:


> As long as you don't have any plans to play game consoles on the 5040, you really SHOULD go back to a projector for movies. The 5040 will do an AMAZING job with that 100" screen and should even be bright enough for daytime viewing as well.
> 
> I have a powered 120" screen that I drop in front of the 55" LED that is in the room if you are curious about what others do in these situations


Gotta disagree on consoles, I game tons on it... With my Pc and my ps4 pro and x1S, and gaming is absolutely glorious on this. 










That's Battlefield 1 from Ps4 Pro, looks and runs amazing. No input lag whatsoever, top of leader boards almost every match, same with titanfall 2


----------



## ndabunka

Savatage316 said:


> Gotta disagree on consoles, I game tons on it... With my Pc and my ps4 pro and x1S, and gaming is absolutely glorious on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's Battlefield 1 from Ps4 Pro, looks and runs amazing. No input lag whatsoever, top of leader boards almost every match, same with titanfall 2


Acknowledged. I probably should clarify. My original guidance was in reference to gaming in 4K HDR (as the original poster had presented 4K HDR as one of the parameters.


Mike Johnson 3 said:


> Hi guys. I'm doing an awful lot of head scratching here...
> I recently bought a Sony 940D with Panasonic ub900 and my wife is bugging me to return the Sony and go with the 5040ube...
> My dilemma is: forgetting my obsession with tech specs, which is going to provide a better cinema experience? Especially with *the 4k UHD forma*t I've been chasing and now have with my Panny/Sony setup....


Users like you who (likely) display games at 1080p and almost ANY frame rate will work "just fine" as you have pointed out. Even those that want to run the 4K spec at the 24Hz or 30Hz refresh rate should have no issues as long as they are accepting of the content being delivered at 8-bit 4:2:0.

My original comments were a "caveat" as there are more than a few on this thread that have poo-poo'ed the idea of running games on it because they ran into issues with 4K and HDR. They were VERY vocal in no uncertain terms that (to them), this projector is inadequate to run 4K HDR at 60 frames per second. This is accurate in so much as this projector was not "designed" to do so. So perhaps I should have clarified as such...
*"If you are a gamer that needs 4K HDR AND high frame rates over 30fps, this projector may not be capable of achieving such objectives". * 

To my knowledge, no projectors under $30K are capable of delivering the low-lag high 60FPS 4K HDR display either so IMHO this one does do a bang up job for the price point no matter what others may say..


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

ndabunka said:


> Acknowledged. I probably should clarify. My original guidance was in reference to gaming in 4K HDR (as the original poster had presented 4K HDR as one of the parameters). Users like you who (likely) display games at 1080p and almost ANY frame rate will work "just fine" as you have pointed out. Even those that want to run the 4K spec at the 24Hz or 30Hz refresh rate should have no issues as long as they are accepting of the content being delivered at 8-bit 4:2:0.
> 
> My original comments were a "caveat" as there are more than a few on this thread that have poo-poo'ed the idea of running games on it because they ran into issues with 4K and HDR. They were VERY vocal in no uncertain terms that (to them), this projector is inadequate to run 4K HDR at 60 frames per second. This is accurate in so much as this projector was not "designed" to do so. So perhaps I should have clarified as such...
> *"If you are a gamer that needs 4K HDR AND high frame rates over 30fps, this projector may not be capable of achieving such objectives". *
> 
> To my knowledge, no projectors under $30K are capable of delivering the low-lag high 60FPS 4K HDR display either so IMHO this one does do a bang up job for the price point no matter what others may say..


I game a lot on my projector. It's in my bedroom and is my main source of viewing. My current setup prevents a lot of the XB1 features, but tomorrow I'll have my hdfury integral and linker in hand. I'll update y'all as to what I'm able achieve on them. Thus far, everything has been superb. Gaming (BF1) and movie viewing is exquisite.


----------



## ndabunka

Nathan Cardinale said:


> I game a lot on my projector. It's in my bedroom and is my main source of viewing. My current setup prevents a lot of the XB1 features, but tomorrow I'll have my hdfury integral and linker in hand. I'll update y'all as to what I'm able achieve on them. Thus far, everything has been superb. Gaming (BF1) and movie viewing is exquisite.


Nathan - You are welcome to post your findings to go along with all the others who have already posted about their success/failures with the XB1 & the HDfury linker. I have a RX 470 card in a PC I built for my 20 year old son but don't game much (anymore) myself. I have tested out a few things but gaming is not an issue for me personally. Someone should probably create a thread dedicated to "Epson 5040ub/6040ube Gaming" so that others like yourself can find pertinant content rapidly without having to re-create gaming discussions that are getting lost within this thread.


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

You can do HDR without 4K on this. It's a 1080p60 projector, that's how people should think of it, especially for gaming where the actual resolution increase is way more costly than doubling framerate (4k is 4x the pixels as 1080p so four times the work, whereas 1080p60 vs 1080p30 is only 2x). You're better off gaming at 1080p60 than 2160p30, definitely. HDR makes things look sharper anyway too.


----------



## Savatage316

I'm getting 60 frames on anything Pc relate and console games that hit 60 frames, this projector is absolutely incredible for gaming. Gaming is my main goal, movies are secondary for me. The only thing that holds back 60 frames would be the game, not the projector. The hdr is wonky but that's firmware stuff that can be fixed. But I wouldn't of bought this projector if it wasn't good for gaming. I'm running a 1080 on my Pc and pro, x1s for consoles and it's glorious. There is not one issue with any type of frame related stuff whatsoever. 60 frames easily obtainable.

But I own an x34 predator for my monitor, gsync etc... And I use my epson 5040ub for basically everything and hardly look at my Pc monitor anymore , so yea...gaming is beautiful on it, I play tons of online shooters and frames aren't an issue, the refresh rate on this projector is top notch


----------



## AdamAttewell

What HDMI video range are you guys using?

I have calibrated my 9300 for SDR but had to switch to expanded because normal was clipping blacks & whites on my test paterns (AVS HD 709)

I do find that HDR looks better with the HDMI video range set to normal but I am yet to calibrate HDR so I dont know its effect.


----------



## elmalloc

Savatage316 said:


> I'm getting 60 frames on anything Pc relate and console games that hit 60 frames, this projector is absolutely incredible for gaming. Gaming is my main goal, movies are secondary for me. The only thing that holds back 60 frames would be the game, not the projector. The hdr is wonky but that's firmware stuff that can be fixed. But I wouldn't of bought this projector if it wasn't good for gaming. I'm running a 1080 on my Pc and pro, x1s for consoles and it's glorious. There is not one issue with any type of frame related stuff whatsoever. 60 frames easily obtainable.
> 
> But I own an x34 predator for my monitor, gsync etc... And I use my epson 5040ub for basically everything and hardly look at my Pc monitor anymore , so yea...gaming is beautiful on it, I play tons of online shooters and frames aren't an issue, the refresh rate on this projector is top notch


Interesting considering it is a top notch movie projector and many are simply gaming (which is what i do with my older 8350). PS4 pro can do 4k but this projector is not truly 4K so this is the best we can do unless you shell out more for True 4K projector.


----------



## Mike Johnson 3

*Thanks, more questions...*

Thanks for the comments in response to my questions. I'm leaning towards having the 65 Sony wall-mounted and have the projector screen drop down in front of it.

It's mainly for movie use, rarely games.

Another question: Since the 75" 940D is so crisp, I can watch it at 6' - 7' easily... But at 9' away from the 110" screen am I really getting that much of a HUGE effect over the 75"? Doesn't being closer to the 75" give almost the same cinematic feel of the 110" at the greater distance?

PS. I went through 6 TV's due to screen imperfections (backlight issues, etc), finally ended up happy with the 940D only to be here about to get rid of it :laugh: I hope the 5040 gives an even MORE EPIC experience than the 940D when watching movies.


----------



## Savatage316

elmalloc said:


> Interesting considering it is a top notch movie projector and many are simply gaming (which is what i do with my older 8350). PS4 pro can do 4k but this projector is not truly 4K so this is the best we can do unless you shell out more for True 4K projector.


Yea, gaming on this is heavenly. I'd love to see a native 4k 130" screen next to it, from what I gathered many have commented saying it's probably be hard to tell the difference. To spend 10k or more is out of the question, but at its price point and for his this performs its absolutely stunning. 

I personally can't believe how amazing games look and run on this, seems wrong for the price point to be honest. Movies are a given, but gaming is absolutely astounding on this. Like I said I have an incredible ultra wide screen monitor with gsync and I barely touch it anymore. 

Sure there will eventually be a better projector, but this for the price is unmatched


----------



## Oledurt

AdamAttewell said:


> What HDMI video range are you guys using?
> 
> 
> 
> I have calibrated my 9300 for SDR but had to switch to expanded because normal was clipping blacks & whites on my test paterns (AVS HD 709)
> 
> 
> 
> I do find that HDR looks better with the HDMI video range set to normal but I am yet to calibrate HDR so I dont know its effect.




I use expanded. Not really sure what the difference is between normal and expanded.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## NoTechi

Just a short update since I had not much time playing more with the linker due to this Chistmas thingy going on 

As I wrote earlier with the linker I am able to get HDR or just the high color space with streaming like Netflix via the xbox one s. But since it is still 60Hz it is also limited to 8bit by the Espon. I wasn't able to adjust settings to make me happy at all. Actually it looked even worse imo then without HDR and I switched back to not using it. So for me the linker did not fullfilled my hopes in regards to gaming and streaming services. This was to be expected since I was aware of the 8bit limitation.

New potential buyers should be aware that it is not only gaming but also streaming UHD content from Netflix and co which is not working out with ths projector. Netflix still looks great but new buyers should be aware that you will have limitations not only with HDR-gaming but also with HDR-Video streaming services.

NoTechi


----------



## AdamAttewell

Oledurt said:


> I use expanded. Not really sure what the difference is between normal and expanded.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes would be nice to know what this setting actually does and why it defaults to normal mode.


----------



## aaranddeeman

AdamAttewell said:


> Yes would be nice to know what this setting actually does and why it defaults to normal mode.


The difference between normal and expanded is normal = 16-235 and expanded = 0-255 (Shows Blacker Than Black and Whiter Than White)
The expanded is mainly useful just for calibration.
Normal covers the required visual DR.


----------



## aaranddeeman

UHDs are mastered at 4:2:0 10bit (as I understand). 
Then wouldn't it make sense to set the source to 4:2:0 10Bit instead of making it like 4:2:2 12 Bit and such?


----------



## ac388

Finally have time setting up my Oppo 203 with the 5040 n played 2 UHD bluray discs. Very surprised to find out the final output resolution on the projector are quite different. The first disc is 'Lucy' n it is " BT2020 4:2:2 12bit HDR2" n the second disc is " Batman vs Superman" n it is "BT2020 4:4:4 8bit HDR2", while the setting on both the projector n 203 remain unchange. Can someone enlighten me up n should I expect those resolution vary from film to film ??? Thanks in advance.


----------



## ht guy

elmalloc said:


> Well ,that makes the decision a lot more interesting.
> 
> I have a Sim2 HT380 with lens and it throws a beautiful picture. It's about 8 years old now, I have to imagine the Epson 5040/6040 is better, but I'm not sure if I should make the switch.
> 
> Do you think the BD203 will squeeze as well as the projector would?
> 
> Thanks!
> ELmO


My PJ (Panasonic ae2000) was 9 years old and, based on what I've seen, the upgrade will be major. 4k input, amazing faux-k output, upscaling, 3D and HDR. 

As for the vertical stretch, this is my first Epson, but my 3rd Oppo. Based on my knowledge of and experience with Oppo, I definitely trust them to get it right.

Don't know if someone here will weigh in before my PJ is installed (scheduled for 1/9.) Either way, I'll post my A lens impressions.

John


----------



## ac388

Since the Oppo 203 had been out for 2-3 weeks, any recommended settings between it n 5040, when watching UHD Bluray n when watching standard Bluray. I did search this thread n nothing really show up. Thanks in advance !!!


----------



## Ronman79

Mike Johnson 3 said:


> Thanks for the comments in response to my questions. I'm leaning towards having the 65 Sony wall-mounted and have the projector screen drop down in front of it.
> 
> It's mainly for movie use, rarely games.
> 
> Another question: Since the 75" 940D is so crisp, I can watch it at 6' - 7' easily... But at 9' away from the 110" screen am I really getting that much of a HUGE effect over the 75"? Doesn't being closer to the 75" give almost the same cinematic feel of the 110" at the greater distance?
> 
> PS. I went through 6 TV's due to screen imperfections (backlight issues, etc), finally ended up happy with the 940D only to be here about to get rid of it  I hope the 5040 gives an even MORE EPIC experience than the 940D when watching movies.


If you have the room, I'd say go 120" or even larger. Because you have a point. If you have a 75", then adding a 110" doesn't sound like such a big, immersive difference. I'm going 120" edgeless, and I might have gone larger if I could fit it. I have ceiling slope in an attic theater room to deal with. Take a look at this. And remember, diagonal measurements make for a bigger difference than most would think. One is your 75-110, and the other is 75-120 (the pics didn't have the labeled heading).















. 

Just for kicks, here's the difference between the 60" I'm watching while typing, and the 120" I'll have upstairs... Lol. 










See what twice the diagonal count actually gives me... 60 x 2 = 4 times the screen size! Yay for me...  



Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

Installed the SI 120" Black Diamond tonight. I didn't think the picture could get any better, but it def. did. I took pictures of blank screen, Assassin's Creed on Xbox One and 4K Youtube. Totally worth every penny.


----------



## covsound1

someone posted being pleased with the panny sdr709 dynamic conversion and dynamic adjustment.a bell went off i checked the phillips but it does not have that feature so i got one today to see for myself. well the panny not to my surprise produces a better picture than the phillips. but what really caught me off guard was the combo of the panny and hd fury playback of sdr2020. the panny allows dynamic adjustment of sdr2020. what this means in cinema mode your 4khdr will be as bright as blue rays and still get some hdr processing. i only watched witchcraft so far and like it better this way than normal hdr. this was never the case with the phillips where hdr was king.


----------



## Smarty-pants

ac388 said:


> Finally have time setting up my Oppo 203 with the 5040 n played 2 UHD bluray discs. Very surprised to find out the final output resolution on the projector are quite different. The first disc is 'Lucy' n it is " BT2020 4:2:2 12bit HDR2" n the second disc is " Batman vs Superman" n it is "BT2020 4:4:4 8bit HDR2", while the setting on both the projector n 203 remain unchange. Can someone enlighten me up n should I expect those resolution vary from film to film ??? Thanks in advance.





ac388 said:


> Since the Oppo 203 had been out for 2-3 weeks, any recommended settings between it n 5040, when watching UHD Bluray n when watching standard Bluray. I did search this thread n nothing really show up. Thanks in advance !!!


The 5040 is capable of those two combinations of Color Space and Deep Color ONLY (along with 4K/60 _ 4:2:0 _ 8b).
I don't know why the player may choose differently between two movies as to which one it prefers,
unless somehow the disc itself is telling it something different from the other one.
The EDID from the Epson should give those two choices though, and since HDR is supposed to have a minimum of 10bits,
it's kind of a wonder exactly what is going on with the 8bit/HDR2 output.
Right now I just have my 203 set to "Custom UHD 24" _ "4:4:4" _ "12b".
That always results in 4:2:2/12b for UHD discs. I really don't see any difference to my eyes with the 4:4:4/8b, so to each their own.

Other than discussed paragraph above, you will get great results with the AUTO settings from the 203 on the 5040.
Other settings are more personal preference and/or related directly to other gear in your setup.
As far as settings on the 5040, I haven't settled on anything specific just yet.
Done a lot of experimenting and still just unsure since there are no test patterns to help set viewing for HDR.
The default setting for the Bright Cinema color mode are somewhat decent for viewing HDR, but the colors will be slightly off
in order to push higher brightness. However I only use Eco mode too since I can't stand fan noise.


----------



## ac388

Smarty-pants said:


> The 5040 is capable of those two combinations of Color Space and Deep Color ONLY (along with 4K/60 _ 4:2:0 _ 8b).
> I don't know why the player may choose differently between two movies as to which one it prefers,
> unless somehow the disc itself is telling it something different from the other one.
> The EDID from the Epson should give those two choices though, and since HDR is supposed to have a minimum of 10bits,
> it's kind of a wonder exactly what is going on with the 8bit/HDR2 output.
> Right now I just have my 203 set to "Custom UHD 24" _ "4:4:4" _ "12b".
> That always results in 4:2:2/12b for UHD discs. I really don't see any difference to my eyes with the 4:4:4/8b, so to each their own.
> 
> Other than discussed paragraph above, you will get great results with the AUTO settings from the 203 on the 5040.
> Other settings are more personal preference and/or related directly to other gear in your setup.
> As far as settings on the 5040, I haven't settled on anything specific just yet.
> Done a lot of experimenting and still just unsure since there are no test patterns to help set viewing for HDR.
> The default setting for the Bright Cinema color mode are somewhat decent for viewing HDR, but the colors will be slightly off
> in order to push higher brightness. However I only use Eco mode too since I can't stand fan noise.


Noted with thanks. Since I only have 2 UHD Bluray discs now, maybe when I got a few more, the answer may come out.

As for setting, will follow yours when I got home tonight n see if my unit will respond same as yours.

Thanks again for your quick reply.

P.S. May I know what you use to calibrate for UHD ?


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> I use expanded. Not really sure what the difference is between normal and expanded.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk






AdamAttewell said:


> Yes would be nice to know what this setting actually does and why it defaults to normal mode.






aaranddeeman said:


> The difference between normal and expanded is normal = 16-235 and expanded = 0-255 (Shows Blacker Than Black and Whiter Than White)
> 
> 
> The expanded is mainly useful just for calibration.
> 
> 
> Normal covers the required visual DR.



You're correct about the digital values for both, but it's actually the normal setting that allows for seeing blacker than black and whiter than white
content. Video is mastered (or is supposed to be) with the black levels set at digital value 16 and peak white value at 235. This allows head (236-255) and tail (0-15) room to put blacker than black and whiter than white signals/information. If you watch a video mastered with black at 16 and then set the display to expanded, it pushes the 16 value signal down to 0, thus not allowing any signals below that (blacker than black). The same is true in the opposite end of the spectrum for whites that get pushed up from 235 to 255, crushing any whiter than whites. 



aaranddeeman said:


> UHDs are mastered at 4:2:0 10bit (as I understand).
> 
> 
> Then wouldn't it make sense to set the source to 4:2:0 10Bit instead of making it like 4:2:2 12 Bit and such?



4:2:0 10bit isn't a valid HDMI signal, so therefore it had to be converted to one in order to be transmitted to the display. 4:2:2 12 bit is valid.


----------



## MaximTre

NoTechi said:


> Just a short update since I had not much time playing more with the linker due to this Chistmas thingy going on
> 
> As I wrote earlier with the linker I am able to get HDR or just the high color space with streaming like Netflix via the xbox one s. But since it is still 60Hz it is also limited to 8bit by the Espon. I wasn't able to adjust settings to make me happy at all. Actually it looked even worse imo then without HDR and I switched back to not using it. So for me the linker did not fullfilled my hopes in regards to gaming and streaming services. This was to be expected since I was aware of the 8bit limitation.
> 
> New potential buyers should be aware that it is not only gaming but also streaming UHD content from Netflix and co which is not working out with ths projector. Netflix still looks great but new buyers should be aware that you will have limitations not only with HDR-gaming but also with HDR-Video streaming services.
> 
> NoTechi


I have the linker too, and I don't agree at all.
[email protected] it's all about banding, you get the same exact color space / palette/ tone mapping / contrast as a full 10 bit signal.
The only downside is banding when more than 8bit color is needed (think of a clear blue sky), but that's really hardly a problem for most of the sources (I use it on both XB1 and PS4 Pro).
You can also use the switch on the linker to downscale and get a full fat 10 bit hdr signal @ 1080p, so I don't really get how hdr can look worse than sdr if properly calibrated.
Now that I'm used to hdr, I really think sdr is so bad, I'm really having an hard time with sdr movies, streaming and gaming 
Thank god hdr is catching up.


----------



## NoTechi

MaximTre said:


> I have the linker too, and I don't agree at all.
> [email protected] it's all about banding, you get the same exact color space / palette/ tone mapping / contrast as a full 10 bit signal.
> The only downside is banding when more than 8bit color is needed (think of a clear blue sky), but that's really hardly a problem for most of the sources (I use it on both XB1 and PS4 Pro).
> You can also use the switch on the linker to downscale and get a full fat 10 bit hdr signal @ 1080p, so I don't really get how hdr can look worse than sdr if properly calibrated.
> Now that I'm used to hdr, I really think sdr is so bad, I'm really having an hard time with sdr movies, streaming and gaming
> Thank god hdr is catching up.


Don't get me wrong I am not talking about playing UHD disc movies with HDR (which I really like). For those I don't need the linker since the UHDs with HDR from XBox One S via wireless work nicely. I am talking about video streaming and gaming. If I go for HDR or higher color space with lets say a Netflix HDR stream forced by the linker the color looks "not good". It's hard to describe and the only reason I can think of would be the 8bit limitation. But since you seem to be really happy with it I am going to give it another shot. I did not try the downscale yet but 10bit hdr @ 1080p sounds worth a try 

NoTechi


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave Harper said:


> You're correct about the digital values for both, but it's actually the normal setting that allows for seeing blacker than black and whiter than white
> content. Video is mastered (or is supposed to be) with the black levels set at digital value 16 and peak white value at 235. This allows head (236-255) and tail (0-15) room to put blacker than black and whiter than white signals/information. If you watch a video mastered with black at 16 and then set the display to expanded, it pushes the 16 value signal down to 0, thus not allowing any signals below that (blacker than black). The same is true in the opposite end of the spectrum for whites that get pushed up from 235 to 255, crushing any whiter than whites.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah. Good catch. Never thought about it. Thanks Dave for clarifying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4:2:0 10bit isn't a valid HDMI signal, so therefore it had to be converted to one in order to be transmitted to the display. 4:2:2 12 bit is valid.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay. Then the question is why on earth the UHD is mastered that way..
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## bluer101

I have 2 quick questions. 

1. From what I read the 5040 has no cooldown after turning off, correct? Mine just turns off after lens close. 

2. Also I noticed after the lens closes when turning off I get a short grunting from fast to slow. Like less that 2 seconds. Is this normal?

I don't think I heard it last week but I'm now listing for it, lol. The only thing I changed in settings from last week is auto iris to high speed from normal. Maybe the iris motor?


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dave Harper said:


> You're correct about the digital values for both, but it's actually the normal setting that allows for seeing blacker than black and whiter than white
> content. Video is mastered (or is supposed to be) with the black levels set at digital value 16 and peak white value at 235. This allows head (236-255) and tail (0-15) room to put blacker than black and whiter than white signals/information. If you watch a video mastered with black at 16 and then set the display to expanded, it pushes the 16 value signal down to 0, thus not allowing any signals below that (blacker than black). The same is true in the opposite end of the spectrum for whites that get pushed up from 235 to 255, crushing any whiter than whites.


So is my calibration invalidated as I am using the expanded setting?

The only reason I switched to this was because when I was trying to set contrast and brightness with the AVS HD disc I would not get the flashing bars to show above their reference levels. 

With brightness nothing above reference black would flash.

And I think for contrast all the levels flashed and no matter what setting i tried could never get it to change.

Do I have to redo my whole calibration now? 

If so how do I set brightness and contrast with normal mode activated?


----------



## Mike Johnson 3

Ronman79 said:


> If you have the room, I'd say go 120" or even larger. Because you have a point. If you have a 75", then adding a 110" doesn't sound like such a big, immersive difference. I'm going 120" edgeless, and I might have gone larger if I could fit it. I have ceiling slope in an attic theater room to deal with. Take a look at this. And remember, diagonal measurements make for a bigger difference than most would think. One is your 75-110, and the other is 75-120 (the pics didn't have the labeled heading).
> 
> Just for kicks, here's the difference between the 60" I'm watching while typing, and the 120" I'll have upstairs... Lol.
> 
> See what twice the diagonal count actually gives me... 60 x 2 = 4 times the screen size! Yay for me...
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


The room is only 15'x15'x9' so I may be limited. I'll measure up and see about going 120" or more.


----------



## Mike Johnson 3

I get this projector is capable of handling a 4K HDR signal...

If it's not displaying 4K, what's the point in sending it a 4K signal? Since buying the 940D I also bought the Panasonic ub900 player and a few 4K HDR movies. Should I not bother and just stick to 1080p content?


----------



## bigboar

hey all, I am looking for some opinions. I am the owner of a 4040(couldnt paas up the deal an authorized dealer gave me on it along with the chief mount and extra bulb).
i already own an xone s but keep reading about it not doing hdr. I am curious if I should invest in a dedicated player for my 4k movies? I currently have a $200 visa gift card i could put to use if there is something out there that would give me a noticeable difference in pq(even though i cant complain how it is now). I am already kinda down on the s as it still doesnt do atmos or x which my theater is setup to do even though i know its supposed to be coming in an update. I have been looking at the philips and samsung and also possibly the oppo but saw on first page the philips is the only one that seems to work correctly. I did see a few pages back someone mentioned a firmware upgrade for the sammy that fixed it but its not mentioned on the first page. any help or thoughts much appreciated.


----------



## MaximTre

NoTechi said:


> Don't get me wrong I am not talking about playing UHD disc movies with HDR (which I really like). For those I don't need the linker since the UHDs with HDR from XBox One S via wireless work nicely. I am talking about video streaming and gaming. If I go for HDR or higher color space with lets say a Netflix HDR stream forced by the linker the color looks "not good". It's hard to describe and the only reason I can think of would be the 8bit limitation. But since you seem to be really happy with it I am going to give it another shot. I did not try the downscale yet but 10bit hdr @ 1080p sounds worth a try
> 
> NoTechi


I was referring to games and streaming (I use a different player for uhd movies).
I have the wireless version too, but I prefer the samsung player.

If you use the linker and put the X1 in hdr mode, the netflix app will output the correct hdr color space, so the linker it's not forcing anything.

Just try the switch for 1080p/hdr/10bit and compare to the 4k/hdr/8bit signal, you won't really notice a difference under normal viewing (I prefer 4k signal when using the PS4 Pro with enhanced games, the difference in resolution is noticeable. Without the linker the PS4 is limited @1080p in hdr mode).
To test 8bit banding, try X1 Horizon 3 menus or PS4 Ratchet & Clank (the level with the "land sharks", look at the sky). Use the switch to quickliy see the difference.


----------



## rjguk

Mike Johnson 3 said:


> I get this projector is capable of handling a 4K HDR signal...
> 
> If it's not displaying 4K, what's the point in sending it a 4K signal? Since buying the 940D I also bought the Panasonic ub900 player and a few 4K HDR movies. Should I not bother and just stick to 1080p content?


There is a lot more information in a UHD signal. The 4k enhancement works by deriving two separate 1080 'views' from that data and showing them in a 'e-shift' fashion. So other things being equal there's more actual information to play with than if it simply gets a 1080p signal.
The upscaling is pretty good anyway so whether there's much visible difference is another matter, but sending it more data is hardly likely to make the image worse.


----------



## spirithockey79

AdamAttewell said:


> So is my calibration invalidated as I am using the expanded setting?
> 
> 
> 
> The only reason I switched to this was because when I was trying to set contrast and brightness with the AVS HD disc I would not get the flashing bars to show above their reference levels.
> 
> 
> 
> With brightness nothing above reference black would flash.
> 
> 
> 
> And I think for contrast all the levels flashed and no matter what setting i tried could never get it to change.
> 
> 
> 
> Do I have to redo my whole calibration now?
> 
> 
> 
> If so how do I set brightness and contrast with normal mode activated?




I had the same questions & concerns as you (search a few of my previous posts for more context). I believe the fix for me (or at least a change that set my mind at ease) was changing my Blu-ray player. I was using my PS4 (not Pro), and like you couldn't see everything needed in the brightness & contrast tests on my M&S calibration disc unless I changed to expanded. The problem to me with expanded was it was creating a light film over the entire picture and blacks weren't as dark. Changing gamma, brightness, contrast, iris settings, etc wouldn't fix it. Conversely setting to Auto or Normal made everything darker but then lost a certain amount of shadow detail. It drove me crazy.

Anyway, I purchased the Oppo 203 and when calibrating with that I can now see all the bars, etc in the test patterns with Auto and normal and have seemed to dial in the right amount of shadow detail. Not sure exactly what the right settings are in the 203 that allow this though. Also not sure what settings in the PS4 were that were not allowing me to see them, and I think I tried every combination of video settings in the PS4. To my eyes now, I think Auto/Normal is the appropriate setting. That said I'm in no way an expert at this stuff and could easily be swayed if others that know what they are doing tell me something is amiss.


----------



## spirithockey79

For those that have the Oppo 203, do you prefer to have the Oppo's custom resolution set to UHD Auto or 1080p Auto? My assumption is setting to UHD Auto will let the Oppo do the 4k upscaling and send to the Epson, whereas setting to 1080p Auto will essentially bypass the Oppo's upscaling and force the Epson to do it. If my assumptions are correct, has anyone done extensive testing to see which device might be better for the upscaling.?

I've gone back and forth and don't really notice a difference. But setting to 1080p will allow you to use FI if so inclined.


----------



## Dave Harper

AdamAttewell said:


> So is my calibration invalidated as I am using the expanded setting?
> 
> 
> 
> The only reason I switched to this was because when I was trying to set contrast and brightness with the AVS HD disc I would not get the flashing bars to show above their reference levels.
> 
> 
> 
> With brightness nothing above reference black would flash.
> 
> 
> 
> And I think for contrast all the levels flashed and no matter what setting i tried could never get it to change.
> 
> 
> 
> Do I have to redo my whole calibration now?
> 
> 
> 
> If so how do I set brightness and contrast with normal mode activated?



Your calibration isn't invalidated. It's just a brightness and contrast adjustment that's needed. Each time you switch between normal and expanded you should readjust the brightness and contrast settings. 

What is your source device and what is that set to, normal (Video) or expanded (PC)?



spirithockey79 said:


> I had the same questions & concerns as you (search a few of my previous posts for more context). I believe the fix for me (or at least a change that set my mind at ease) was changing my Blu-ray player. I was using my PS4 (not Pro), and like you couldn't see everything needed in the brightness & contrast tests on my M&S calibration disc unless I changed to expanded. The problem to me with expanded was it was creating a light film over the entire picture and blacks weren't as dark. Changing gamma, brightness, contrast, iris settings, etc wouldn't fix it. Conversely setting to Auto or Normal made everything darker but then lost a certain amount of shadow detail. It drove me crazy.
> 
> Anyway, I purchased the Oppo 203 and when calibrating with that I can now see all the bars, etc in the test patterns with Auto and normal and have seemed to dial in the right amount of shadow detail. Not sure exactly what the right settings are in the 203 that allow this though. Also not sure what settings in the PS4 were that were not allowing me to see them, and I think I tried every combination of video settings in the PS4. To my eyes now, I think Auto/Normal is the appropriate setting. That said I'm in no way an expert at this stuff and could easily be swayed if others that know what they are doing tell me something is amiss.



Your source (PS4) should have the same setting as the display, normal or expanded. They should match. Just about everything home theater (video levels) should be mastered in the normal 16-235 mode. PCs are the only thing that should be using expanded mode. If they're matching and you can't get the bars to correctly set your brightness and contrast levels then it's most likely due to the source clipping those values, which they can do. It used to be a bigger problem, but still can occur. 

Just a tip, I did however switch to expanded to help with a larger dynamic brightness range for stripped HDR with bt2020 wide color gamut when I had my Xbox One S going to my Sony VW350ES. I did have to readjust the black and white levels though to get a proper image.

When I got the VW365ES it supported HDR and had the HDR Contrast slider so I no longer needed to do that. Since the 5040/6040 doesn't have this feature, this may help with it showing brighter images when displaying HDR.


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> Your calibration isn't invalidated. It's just a brightness and contrast adjustment that's needed. Each time you switch between normal and expanded you should readjust the brightness and contrast settings.
> 
> What is your source device and what is that set to, normal (Video) or expanded (PC)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your source (PS4) should have the same setting as the display, normal or expanded. They should match. Just about everything home theater (video levels) should be mastered in the normal 16-235 mode. PCs are the only thing that should be using expanded mode. If they're matching and you can't get the bars to correctly set your brightness and contrast levels then it's most likely due to the source clipping those values, which they can do. It used to be a bigger problem, but still can occur.
> 
> Just a tip, I did however switch to expanded to help with a larger dynamic brightness range for stripped HDR with bt2020 wide color gamut when I had my Xbox One S going to my Sony VW350ES. I did have to readjust the black and white levels though to get a proper image.
> 
> When I got the VW365ES it supported HDR and had the HDR Contrast slider so I no longer needed to do that. Since the 5040/6040 doesn't have this feature, this may help with it showing brighter images when displaying HDR.




Dave, thanks for the info as that greatly helps in understanding what appropriate settings should be. The Oppo 203 also has a "strip HDR" feature although the color mapping isn't working right. If Oppo fixes this and that feature works as advertised I'll take a look at expanded again. I've just noticed that whites look really bad when watching HDR on this pj so (not sure the correct term to describe it) hopefully they aren't as bad with just stripping HDR.


----------



## am2model3

When i look at my 2160p 50 inch compared to my 1080p 130 inch; its no comparison which is more immersive! 
I'll get a 2160p projector when its native! 

Until then; Nvidia DSR 4k 2160p/60 games superscale down to 1080p and I get an incredible game experience @ 1080p!


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

AdamAttewell said:


> So is my calibration invalidated as I am using the expanded setting?
> 
> The only reason I switched to this was because when I was trying to set contrast and brightness with the AVS HD disc I would not get the flashing bars to show above their reference levels.
> 
> With brightness nothing above reference black would flash.
> 
> And I think for contrast all the levels flashed and no matter what setting i tried could never get it to change.
> 
> Do I have to redo my whole calibration now?
> 
> If so how do I set brightness and contrast with normal mode activated?


To get the flashing bars, you need to activate Epson super white. Though people have said they prefer it turned off since it (possibly) crushes the black levels. I turned it on, calibrated brightness, and turned it off.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dave Harper said:


> Your calibration isn't invalidated. It's just a brightness and contrast adjustment that's needed. Each time you switch between normal and expanded you should readjust the brightness and contrast settings.
> 
> What is your source device and what is that set to, normal (Video) or expanded (PC)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your source (PS4) should have the same setting as the display, normal or expanded. They should match. Just about everything home theater (video levels) should be mastered in the normal 16-235 mode. PCs are the only thing that should be using expanded mode. If they're matching and you can't get the bars to correctly set your brightness and contrast levels then it's most likely due to the source clipping those values, which they can do. It used to be a bigger problem, but still can occur.
> 
> Just a tip, I did however switch to expanded to help with a larger dynamic brightness range for stripped HDR with bt2020 wide color gamut when I had my Xbox One S going to my Sony VW350ES. I did have to readjust the black and white levels though to get a proper image.
> 
> When I got the VW365ES it supported HDR and had the HDR Contrast slider so I no longer needed to do that. Since the 5040/6040 doesn't have this feature, this may help with it showing brighter images when displaying HDR.


My source is a Panasonic UB700 I have had a look in all the menus but I can't seem to find any setting for video or PC.


----------



## ndabunka

AdamAttewell said:


> My source is a Panasonic UB700 I have had a look in all the menus but I can't seem to find any setting for video or PC.


The Panny doesn't need to have anything listed as video or PC. Others have posted above the following...
Panny's Normal = Video
Panny's Expanded = PC/Computer


----------



## Ronman79

Mike Johnson 3 said:


> The room is only 15'x15'x9' so I may be limited. I'll measure up and see about going 120" or more.


You've got the room. I've got 15 at the widest part of a 3' knee wall with sloped ceiling from there. The screen that I'm going to be using is a 16x9 model that's overall 59"x105". That's just under 9 feet. So.... If you use a retractable screen even, you'd have to allow for the case, but would have room to spare! 👍😆

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

Mike Johnson 3 said:


> I get this projector is capable of handling a 4K HDR signal...
> 
> If it's not displaying 4K, what's the point in sending it a 4K signal? Since buying the 940D I also bought the Panasonic ub900 player and a few 4K HDR movies. Should I not bother and just stick to 1080p content?


That's like saying that a 1080p TV can receive a full HD signal, but why not just use DVD. Better source signal to a capable display, better picture. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Smarty-pants said:


> The 5040 is capable of those two combinations of Color Space and Deep Color ONLY (along with 4K/60 _ 4:2:0 _ 8b).
> I don't know why the player may choose differently between two movies as to which one it prefers,
> unless somehow the disc itself is telling it something different from the other one.
> The EDID from the Epson should give those two choices though, and since HDR is supposed to have a minimum of 10bits,
> it's kind of a wonder exactly what is going on with the 8bit/HDR2 output.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now I just have my 203 set to "Custom UHD 24" _ "4:4:4" _ "12b".
> That always results in 4:2:2/12b for UHD discs. I really don't see any difference to my eyes with the 4:4:4/8b, so to each their own.
> 
> 
> 
> Other than discussed paragraph above, you will get great results with the AUTO settings from the 203 on the 5040.
> Other settings are more personal preference and/or related directly to other gear in your setup.
> As far as settings on the 5040, I haven't settled on anything specific just yet.
> Done a lot of experimenting and still just unsure since there are no test patterns to help set viewing for HDR.
> The default setting for the Bright Cinema color mode are somewhat decent for viewing HDR, but the colors will be slightly off
> in order to push higher brightness. However I only use Eco mode too since I can't stand fan noise.



I have double checked again n the reading for 'Batman vs Superman' is 8bit/HDR/4:4:4/BT2020.
I used your setting n force the UHD24/12bit n 4:4:4 on the Batman disc, but it still come out 8bit/HDR/4:4:4/BT2020.
Bright Cinema looks ok but still off. When using AVS HD disc, I am running into Normal n Expanded setting problem as others are discussing above, since the Reference Black level is not flashing in my case.


----------



## Smarty-pants

ac388 said:


> I have double checked again n the reading for 'Batman vs Superman' is 8bit/HDR/4:4:4/BT2020.
> I used your setting n force the UHD24/12bit n 4:4:4 on the Batman disc, but it still come out 8bit/HDR/4:4:4/BT2020.
> Bright Cinema looks ok but still off. When using AVS HD disc, I am running into Normal n Expanded setting problem as others are discussing above, since the Reference Black level is not flashing in my case.


First, my previous post about using explicit setting of 4:4:4/12b in the 203 was wrong.
May apologies for that. I should have said 4:2:2. Trying 4:4:4/12b resulted in 4:4:4/8b output.

I would not use expanded RGB. Anyone is welcome to their opinion on that, but it is not meant for home theater viewing.
If you turn SuperWhite on, you will see the blacker than black bars. However you don't really need to.
Just turn brightness down until you see the 2 most distinctive bars on the right, then turn brightness down until
the darkest one disappears only showing 1 bar, then turn brightness up until the 2nd bar can be seen.
Then leave it there or raise it one more notch. If you have a bat cave leave it there,
if you have any ambient light at all then raise it one more notch.
(I'm assuming that you are using a pattern that uses the 4 bars.)


----------



## ac388

Smarty-pants said:


> First, my previous post about using explicit setting of 4:4:4/12b in the 203 was wrong.
> May apologies for that. I should have said 4:2:2. Trying 4:4:4/12b resulted in 4:4:4/8b output.
> 
> I would not use expanded RGB. Anyone is welcome to their opinion on that, but it is not meant for home theater viewing.
> If you turn SuperWhite off, you will see the blacker than black bars. However you don't really need to.
> Just turn brightness down until you see the 2 most distinctive bars on the right, then turn brightness down until
> the darkest one disappears only showing 1 bar, then turn brightness up until the 2nd bar can be seen.
> Then leave it there or raise it one more notch. If you have a bat cave leave it there,
> if you have any ambient light at all then raise it one more notch.
> (I'm assuming that you are using a pattern that uses the 4 bars.)


Noted the 4:2:2 setting. Will give it a try tonight.

As for the 4 bars pattern, is it inside the AVS HD disc ? If yes, under which section ?


----------



## Smarty-pants

ac388 said:


> Noted the 4:2:2 setting. Will give it a try tonight.
> 
> As for the 4 bars pattern, is it inside the AVS HD disc ? If yes, under which section ?


One more typo, Superwhite ON to see BTB.
I don't use the AVS HD disc. My normal goto calibration disc is the Spears and Munsil set.


----------



## kanerator

Every time I think I am off the fence on projector choice, I read another forum and that puts me back on the fence. And it's not just a question of demo-ing different projector choices and picking the best picture. I've narrowed my choices down to Epson 6040, JVC Rs600, or a Sony 4k. But the problem is that each of them have their own inherent issues.
The Sony's have this rarely discussed issue of contrast deterioration (in as little as 500 hours according to some forum posters). 
The JVC have the issue of uneven brightness across the panel, particularly around the edges.
I had pretty much decided on the Epson 6040, but I am now reading that the Epson has issues with handling 12 bit 4.4.4, and worse I am reading lots of owners complaining about ghosting on 3d (one of the main reasons I wanted to upgrade my projector was to get 3d capable) and the dreaded green dust blobs.
It kinda becomes a case of which problems do I want to risk or live with. 
Then, of course, there is the old "do I wait to see what next year brings in price drop and tech innovation." I, like most of you tech followers was super excited about UHD and HDR, but in reading the forums in the past few weeks, so many people have mentioned how terrible the UHD discs look with HDR enabled because of the lack of brightness of projectors. The experts even say that most tv's can't produce the 1000 nits required to fully utilise HDR. If watching UHD HDR discs requires purchasing a $100,000 plus projector to get to the brightness level required to enjoy this new technology, I'm uncertain how it is going to be embraced by the projector crowd. People seem to be getting benefit from UHD SDR set-ups and the clarity of these pixel shifting and 4k projectors on blu-ray and dvd is a step up and worth the upgrade, but UHD HDR could go the way of 3d and SACD as a stepping stone to some new technology rather than a destination. 3d may be superseded by VR just as SACD has been superseded by blu-ray lossless audio and audio formats like Atmos and DTS:X ( if the music industry would wake up and embrace them). I love tech, but the need to upgrade equipment every 3 to 5 years is difficult. My 4 year old, top of the line Pioneer amp is useless for Atmos , 3d Auro, or DTS:X. My Oppo needs to be upgraded to the 203 model to do UHD, speakers need to be added for Atmos and my projector needs to be upgraded for 4k and 3d.


----------



## ac388

Smarty-pants said:


> One more typo, Superwhite ON to see BTB.
> I don't use the AVS HD disc. My normal goto calibration disc is the Spears and Munsil set.


Noted. I did not have the S&M disc. Will play with the AVS disc .


----------



## Oledurt

kanerator said:


> Every time I think I am off the fence on projector choice, I read another forum and that puts me back on the fence. And it's not just a question of demo-ing different projector choices and picking the best picture. I've narrowed my choices down to Epson 6040, JVC Rs600, or a Sony 4k. But the problem is that each of them have their own inherent issues.
> 
> The Sony's have this rarely discussed issue of contrast deterioration (in as little as 500 hours according to some forum posters).
> 
> The JVC have the issue of uneven brightness across the panel, particularly around the edges.
> 
> I had pretty much decided on the Epson 6040, but I am now reading that the Epson has issues with handling 12 bit 4.4.4, and worse I am reading lots of owners complaining about ghosting on 3d (one of the main reasons I wanted to upgrade my projector was to get 3d capable) and the dreaded green dust blobs.
> 
> It kinda becomes a case of which problems do I want to risk or live with.
> 
> Then, of course, there is the old "do I wait to see what next year brings in price drop and tech innovation." I, like most of you tech followers was super excited about UHD and HDR, but in reading the forums in the past few weeks, so many people have mentioned how terrible the UHD discs look with HDR enabled because of the lack of brightness of projectors. The experts even say that most tv's can't produce the 1000 nits required to fully utilise HDR. If watching UHD HDR discs requires purchasing a $100,000 plus projector to get to the brightness level required to enjoy this new technology, I'm uncertain how it is going to be embraced by the projector crowd. People seem to be getting benefit from UHD SDR set-ups and the clarity of these pixel shifting and 4k projectors on blu-ray and dvd is a step up and worth the upgrade, but UHD HDR could go the way of 3d and SACD as a stepping stone to some new technology rather than a destination. 3d may be superseded by VR just as SACD has been superseded by blu-ray lossless audio and audio formats like Atmos and DTS:X ( if the music industry would wake up and embrace them). I love tech, but the need to upgrade equipment every 3 to 5 years is difficult. My 4 year old, top of the line Pioneer amp is useless for Atmos , 3d Auro, or DTS:X. My Oppo needs to be upgraded to the 203 model to do UHD, speakers need to be added for Atmos and my projector needs to be upgraded for 4k and 3d.




I hear you...This hobby is a journey with no end. Everything is a stepping stone to the next thing. Nothing in this hobby is timeless. 

That being said...You can focus on all the reviews, specs, issues, tech talk etc. Or you can take the plunge and enjoy things for what they are. I choose the later.

If you really want to be practical you need to wait for the tech to mature. It may be awhile before we see affordable projectors that meet the HDR standard.

That being said, at this moment there really is no HDR standard. It is still being ironed out. In the meantime this Epson is a nice improvement over the old 5030. 

I would say a 20% to 25% increase in picture quality. For the price it is worth it to me. I plan to replace it in 3 years when the technology matures.

HDR and the BT2020 colorspace are the future there is no doubt about that. It may not currently be perfect but the "faux K" is a definite improvement over 1080p, and that will hold me over for awhile.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dave Harper said:


> Your calibration isn't invalidated. It's just a brightness and contrast adjustment that's needed. Each time you switch between normal and expanded you should readjust the brightness and contrast settings.
> 
> What is your source device and what is that set to, normal (Video) or expanded (PC)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your source (PS4) should have the same setting as the display, normal or expanded. They should match. Just about everything home theater (video levels) should be mastered in the normal 16-235 mode. PCs are the only thing that should be using expanded mode. If they're matching and you can't get the bars to correctly set your brightness and contrast levels then it's most likely due to the source clipping those values, which they can do. It used to be a bigger problem, but still can occur.
> 
> Just a tip, I did however switch to expanded to help with a larger dynamic brightness range for stripped HDR with bt2020 wide color gamut when I had my Xbox One S going to my Sony VW350ES. I did have to readjust the black and white levels though to get a proper image.
> 
> When I got the VW365ES it supported HDR and had the HDR Contrast slider so I no longer needed to do that. Since the 5040/6040 doesn't have this feature, this may help with it showing brighter images when displaying HDR.


I had another look at this and as you say blacks are blacker with normal mode active, but when I run the dynamic range test in calman it reports the whites are being clipped at 235.

Upon switching to expanded and then re-running the test no clipping occurs.

Whats confusing me is if expanded does not allow blacker than black or whiter than white why does calman report clipping in normal mode?

Should it not be the other way round?


----------



## covsound1

achanonier said:


> Hi there
> Juste a quick post to say that I have finally found my UHD settings
> 
> I use a Panasonic UHD player that allow a very good and user parametrable HDR to SDR conversion (it has a specific "Dynamic Range Conversion" slider that adjust the max noit output of your display).
> And in between the player and the PJ I sue a HD Fury Linker in order to keep BT2020 color space.
> 
> I've been tweaking things for days literraly and this is for me by far the best and most consistent setting I can have.
> 
> I keep WCG with great colors and dynamic and the customized HDR-->SDR conversion brings out an almost HDR feel of the image.
> 
> I'm not sure you can do better with HDR engaged because if you tweak gamma / brightness / contrast to get a bright enough image in HDR you simply kill / reduce the dynamic range almost to SDR (which is quite logical as you keep maximum PJ brightness and bring up average brightness to an acceptable level thus dropping global dynamic range)


just want to send a thankyou! for information about the panny and hd fury.


----------



## Dave Harper

AdamAttewell said:


> I had another look at this and as you say blacks are blacker with normal mode active, but when I run the dynamic range test in calman it reports the whites are being clipped at 235.
> 
> Upon switching to expanded and then re-running the test no clipping occurs.
> 
> Whats confusing me is if expanded does not allow blacker than black or whiter than white why does calman report clipping in normal mode?
> 
> Should it not be the other way round?



It sounds like maybe your source and display aren't set to the same setting. Almost like the source is expanded and being squished into the limited range, clipping WTW. Therefore setting to expanded opens it up to allow it to display. 

What's your source device and all your settings? What is your "Super White" setting?


----------



## MDesigns

Dave Harper said:


> You're correct about the digital values for both, but it's actually the normal setting that allows for seeing blacker than black and whiter than white
> content. Video is mastered (or is supposed to be) with the black levels set at digital value 16 and peak white value at 235. This allows head (236-255) and tail (0-15) room to put blacker than black and whiter than white signals/information. If you watch a video mastered with black at 16 and then set the display to expanded, it pushes the 16 value signal down to 0, thus not allowing any signals below that (blacker than black). The same is true in the opposite end of the spectrum for whites that get pushed up from 235 to 255, crushing any whiter than whites.


If we are talking about the projectors setting, doesn't it work like this:

When using normal, the projector uses it's full dynamic range to display values 16-235 and you are not able to see 0-15 and 236-255. When you change to expanded, you can see all the levels including the 0-15 and 236-255.

But since the BTB(0-15) and WTW(236-255) levels usually doesn't contain any information, normal mode is recommended. Also with normal mode you are not wasting brightness to displaying WTW signals.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dave Harper said:


> It sounds like maybe your source and display aren't set to the same setting. Almost like the source is expanded and being squished into the limited range, clipping WTW. Therefore setting to expanded opens it up to allow it to display.
> 
> What's your source device and all your settings? What is your "Super White" setting?


My source is a Panasonic UB700 set to normal mode which another poster tells me is video mode.

My pattern generator is a lumagen radiance with levels set to video.

I have super white off but turning it on stops the clipping occuring.

What does super white actually do?


----------



## bigboar

I have narrowed my choices down to the sammy 8500 or philips 7501. Can anyone recommend which unit works better for uhd blu rays? I would like to go buy it today but dont want to make the wrong choice. I know the first page says the philips is the only one that does hdr correctly but i saw later in this thread someone stated they had a firmware update on the sammy and it fixed it


----------



## aaranddeeman

bigboar said:


> I have narrowed my choices down to the sammy 8500 or philips 7501. Can anyone recommend which unit works better for uhd blu rays? I would like to go buy it today but dont want to make the wrong choice. I know the first page says the philips is the only one that does hdr correctly but i saw later in this thread someone stated they had a firmware update on the sammy and it fixed it


+1 for Philips..


----------



## Mike Johnson 3

It's official! I returned the Sony 75" 940D last night! I have an Epson 5040ube on order! Also doing a screen size increase to a Silver Ticket fixed 120" gray screen! I decided against any drop-down screens as I can't stand wrinkles! I'll just keep the Sony 65" in the closet and set it up in front of the PJ screen when needed.

I hope the Panny ub900 pairs well with the Epson...

Are my TDGBT500A Sony active 3D glasses going to work with the Epson? Or should I return those and get something different?

It was funny being in line at BB last night, "What's wrong with the TV? Too big?" 
"No, too SMALL!"  My wife's happy. I'm happy if she is.


----------



## xrider

Mike Johnson 3 said:


> It's official! I returned the Sony 75" 940D last night! I have an Epson 5040ube on order! Also doing a screen size increase to a Silver Ticket fixed 120" gray screen! I decided against any drop-down screens as I can't stand wrinkles! I'll just keep the Sony 65" in the closet and set it up in front of the PJ screen when needed.
> 
> I hope the Panny ub900 pairs well with the Epson...
> 
> Are my TDGBT500A Sony active 3D glasses going to work with the Epson? Or should I return those and get something different?
> 
> It was funny being in line at BB last night, "What's wrong with the TV? Too big?"
> "No, too SMALL!"  My wife's happy. I'm happy if she is.


I´m interested to hear what you think when you get it.
I bought 5040ub after month of thinking between that and a Sony 75 940D. But my conculsion was that sure the 940D will give me better image quality. But I don´t think I can go down in screen size(Already had a sanyo z2000 and 90 inch screen). So I went for 5040ub and a 106 inch screen .


----------



## Mike Johnson 3

xrider said:


> I´m interested to hear what you think when you get it.
> I bought 5040ub after month of thinking between that and a Sony 75 940D. But my conculsion was that sure the 940D will give me better image quality. But I don´t think I can go down in screen size(Already had a sanyo z2000 and 90 inch screen). So I went for 5040ub and a 106 inch screen .


I'm sure you understand it was a tough decision.

My wife and I had a good discussion about it all... With all of my "sales-pitch" about why we should keep the 940D, she said "I'm not moved by science and tech specs. I just go by the effect it creates on me and the 75" doesn't take me there like the BIG screen does (projector)."


----------



## am2model3

kanerator said:


> Every time I think I am off the fence on projector choice, I read another forum and that puts me back on the fence. And it's not just a question of demo-ing different projector choices and picking the best picture. I've narrowed my choices down to Epson 6040, JVC Rs600, or a Sony 4k. But the problem is that each of them have their own inherent issues.
> The Sony's have this rarely discussed issue of contrast deterioration (in as little as 500 hours according to some forum posters).
> The JVC have the issue of uneven brightness across the panel, particularly around the edges.
> I had pretty much decided on the Epson 6040, but I am now reading that the Epson has issues with handling 12 bit 4.4.4, and worse I am reading lots of owners complaining about ghosting on 3d (one of the main reasons I wanted to upgrade my projector was to get 3d capable) and the dreaded green dust blobs.
> It kinda becomes a case of which problems do I want to risk or live with.
> Then, of course, there is the old "do I wait to see what next year brings in price drop and tech innovation." I, like most of you tech followers was super excited about UHD and HDR, but in reading the forums in the past few weeks, so many people have mentioned how terrible the UHD discs look with HDR enabled because of the lack of brightness of projectors. The experts even say that most tv's can't produce the 1000 nits required to fully utilise HDR. If watching UHD HDR discs requires purchasing a $100,000 plus projector to get to the brightness level required to enjoy this new technology, I'm uncertain how it is going to be embraced by the projector crowd. People seem to be getting benefit from UHD SDR set-ups and the clarity of these pixel shifting and 4k projectors on blu-ray and dvd is a step up and worth the upgrade, but UHD HDR could go the way of 3d and SACD as a stepping stone to some new technology rather than a destination. 3d may be superseded by VR just as SACD has been superseded by blu-ray lossless audio and audio formats like Atmos and DTS:X ( if the music industry would wake up and embrace them). I love tech, but the need to upgrade equipment every 3 to 5 years is difficult. My 4 year old, top of the line Pioneer amp is useless for Atmos , 3d Auro, or DTS:X. My Oppo needs to be upgraded to the 203 model to do UHD, speakers need to be added for Atmos and my projector needs to be upgraded for 4k and 3d.


i know what you mean. If i were you; i'd keep waiting. 2017 or 2018 should bring some real good native 2160p 4k projector options that feature full 18GPS HDMI inputs; until you see the spec "native 2160p" and "18gbps HDMI" inputs; the option should be off your list. = ) There are other options such as HDMI 2.0a; HDR, dolby vision; WCG wide color gamut; DCI-P3 and/or BT.2020.


----------



## rjguk

am2model3 said:


> i know what you mean. If i were you; i'd keep waiting. 2017 or 2018 should bring some real good native 2160p 4k projector options that feature full 18GPS HDMI inputs; until you see the spec "native 2160p" and "18gbps HDMI" inputs; the option should be off your list. = ) There are other options such as HDMI 2.0a; HDR, dolby vision; WCG wide color gamut; DCI-P3 and/or BT.2020.


And note that broadcast TV may be moving to Hybrid-Log-Gamma (HLG) type of HDR. The BBC is testing this at the moment. One more feature for a PJ to have to support, although it is possible this can be added in firmware.


----------



## GregCh

rjguk said:


> And note that broadcast TV may be moving to Hybrid-Log-Gamma (HLG) type of HDR. The BBC is testing this at the moment. One more feature for a PJ to have to support, although it is possible this can be added in firmware.


Does it really matter? 

I mean, current projectors can't really reproduce true HDR so why worry about broadcast HDR which is a long way off in the future.

In order for projectors to even come close to reproducing true HDR they will have to get brightness levels way up and black levels way down. In addition they will have to do that in the BT2020 colorspace and produce accurate color while achieving the bright projection levels. 

New LED TVs are starting to hit the 2000 and 3000 nit level which is about 600 to 900 foot-lambert equivalent. Most projectors are only producing 20 - 30 FL on a 120" screen. In addition the black levels on new fald LED tvs are equivalent or better than plasma. Projection systems on a white screen just can't hit those same levels. 

HDR just doesn't translate well to projection systems. I expect that meta data will be added to HDR10 in the near future and that will help out projection systems in the future to simulate HDR better but I doubt they will ever achieve the same level of impact that HDR on a led tv can provide.


----------



## john barlow

am2model3 said:


> i know what you mean. If i were you; i'd keep waiting. 2017 or 2018 should bring some real good native 2160p 4k projector options that feature full 18GPS HDMI inputs; until you see the spec "native 2160p" and "18gbps HDMI" inputs; the option should be off your list. = ) There are other options such as HDMI 2.0a; HDR, dolby vision; WCG wide color gamut; DCI-P3 and/or BT.2020.


Get the Epson for service and dedication to product quality. They can't be beat. Any wrinkles now inherent will be solved by people in this forum and good companies like Oppo and Epson, take good care of their customers. If I was going for flat panel, it would be Sony. But, I love this Epson 5040UB, a little more every day. And, I don't even have my 4K disc player yet. The Oppo 203, arrives next Tuesday. You could spend your whole life waiting for something better. Waiting for a year or two and the E companies will have you salivating for 8K.


----------



## rjguk

GregCh said:


> Does it really matter?
> 
> I mean, current projectors can't really reproduce true HDR so why worry about broadcast HDR which is a long way off in the future.
> 
> In order for projectors to even come close to reproducing true HDR they will have to get brightness levels way up and black levels way down. In addition they will have to do that in the BT2020 colorspace and produce accurate color while achieving the bright projection levels.
> 
> New LED TVs are starting to hit the 2000 and 3000 nit level which is about 600 to 900 foot-lambert equivalent. Most projectors are only producing 20 - 30 FL on a 120" screen. In addition the black levels on new fald LED tvs are equivalent or better than plasma. Projection systems on a white screen just can't hit those same levels.
> 
> HDR just doesn't translate well to projection systems. I expect that meta data will be added to HDR10 in the near future and that will help out projection systems in the future to simulate HDR better but I doubt they will ever achieve the same level of impact that HDR on a led tv can provide.


I agree about HDR using HDR10, it is mastered for high-brightness displays. The thing about HLG is that it doesn't depend on high-brightness displays, it will improve the dynamic range even for devices that can only hit fairly low brightness levels, it is a non-linear brightness scheme. I suspect it will be in use fairly quickly if the BBC trials are a guide. The adoption of 2160/50p UHD as the output of millions of UK SkyQ boxes caught quite a few manufacturers out, and we can expect more of that in the future. The 2016 events in the link below are interesting.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_Log-Gamma

HLG appears to use Rec. 2100.

Yes, projectors don't do it as well, but HLG is probably their best hope of doing it better than now.


----------



## bluer101

I'm bumping my own questions. They were on the bottom of a page. 





bluer101 said:


> I have 2 quick questions.
> 
> 1. From what I read the 5040 has no cooldown after turning off, correct? Mine just turns off after lens close.
> 
> 2. Also I noticed after the lens closes when turning off I get a short grunting from fast to slow. Like less that 2 seconds. Is this normal?
> 
> I don't think I heard it last week but I'm now listing for it, lol. The only thing I changed in settings from last week is auto iris to high speed from normal. Maybe the iris motor?


Here is a video. The first sound is the lens cover closing but the sound at the end like a groan is in question. I tried auto iris off and still that sound.


----------



## gene4ht

Mike Johnson 3 said:


> ...the 75" doesn't take me there like the BIG screen does (projector)..


75" is a BIG screen... >100" is an immersive experience!



GregCh said:


> *Does it really matter? *
> 
> I mean, current projectors can't really reproduce true HDR so why worry about broadcast HDR which is a long way off in the future.
> 
> In order for projectors to even come close to reproducing true HDR they will have to get brightness levels way up and black levels way down. In addition they will have to do that in the BT2020 colorspace and produce accurate color while achieving the bright projection levels.
> 
> New LED TVs are starting to hit the 2000 and 3000 nit level which is about 600 to 900 foot-lambert equivalent. Most projectors are only producing 20 - 30 FL on a 120" screen. In addition the black levels on new fald LED tvs are equivalent or better than plasma. Projection systems on a white screen just can't hit those same levels.
> 
> HDR just doesn't translate well to projection systems. I expect that meta data will be added to HDR10 in the near future and that will help out projection systems in the future to simulate HDR better but I doubt they will ever achieve the same level of impact that HDR on a led tv can provide.





john barlow said:


> Get the Epson for service and dedication to product quality. They can't be beat. Any wrinkles now inherent will be solved by people in this forum and good companies like Oppo and Epson, take good care of their customers. If I was going for flat panel, it would be Sony. But, I love this Epson 5040UB, a little more every day. And, I don't even have my 4K disc player yet. The Oppo 203, arrives next Tuesday. * You could spend your whole life waiting for something better.* Waiting for a year or two and the E companies will have you salivating for 8K.


+1 +1 +1

There will always be two schools of thought. One school for those who wait for perfection. And the other school for those who get to enjoy what's available now. I'm a graduate of the latter school!


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dave Harper said:


> It sounds like maybe your source and display aren't set to the same setting. Almost like the source is expanded and being squished into the limited range, clipping WTW. Therefore setting to expanded opens it up to allow it to display.
> 
> What's your source device and all your settings? What is your "Super White" setting?


Just in case I am not explaining what's happening very well, here are some pictures.

Both are with the contrast cranked way too high so it is easy to see what's happening in pictures.

Normal mode:









Expanded:









Pictures are not very good but you can see that in normal mode everything above 16 is clipped but in expanded you can see above 16.

Both pictures are with the contrast set to 70 and no matter how high you crank the contrast with hdmi video range set to normal you never see anything above 16.

So should I calibrate with normal or expanded mode enabled as I am very confused.


----------



## 2 Stangs

How is this projector with maintaining sharpness/focus? With my current DLP I have to re-adjust the manual focus ring every hour or so as it drifts on it's own and the PQ becomes fuzzy.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Forgot to also include the effect on contrast.

Normal:









Expanded:










As you can see with normal lots of clipping and this is why calman is also telling me that whites are being clipped.

What I have discovered is that if you have normal mode active and the enable Epson super white the whites are no longer clipped and you can see the full range just like expanded mode is active.

It also seems to have no effect on the brightness test pattern in terms of it being altered when switching between on and off.


----------



## Ronman79

Mike Johnson 3 said:


> It's official! I returned the Sony 75" 940D last night! I have an Epson 5040ube on order! Also doing a screen size increase to a Silver Ticket fixed 120" gray screen! I decided against any drop-down screens as I can't stand wrinkles! I'll just keep the Sony 65" in the closet and set it up in front of the PJ screen when needed.
> 
> I hope the Panny ub900 pairs well with the Epson...
> 
> Are my TDGBT500A Sony active 3D glasses going to work with the Epson? Or should I return those and get something different?
> 
> It was funny being in line at BB last night, "What's wrong with the TV? Too big?"
> "No, too SMALL!"  My wife's happy. I'm happy if she is.




Conratulations!!! Let us know how things turn out.


----------



## bigboar

aaranddeeman said:


> +1 for Philips..


Thanks, went and picked it up today and installed it a little bit ago. I think I am good to go for awhile now and am going to sit back and enjoy the 4040 for the next few years..very happy with it. Its my first projector purchase.


----------



## gnolivos

2 Stangs said:


> How is this projector with maintaining sharpness/focus? With my current DLP I have to re-adjust the manual focus ring every hour or so as it drifts on it's own and the PQ becomes fuzzy.




I've paid close attention to this since I purchased it a couple of months ago. I can tell you I have never noticed the focus drifting at all. Every time I've checked the focus is perfectly maintained and extremely sharp.


----------



## ndabunka

bigboar said:


> Thanks, went and picked it up today and installed it a little bit ago. I think I am good to go for awhile now and am going to sit back and enjoy the 4040 for the next few years..very happy with it. Its my first projector purchase.


Where did you buy the rack blank with a cut out that fits the Phillips? I think I NEED one of those!


----------



## bigboar

ndabunka said:


> Where did you buy the rack blank with a cut out that fits the Phillips? I think I NEED one of those!


I took a regular blank and cut out a 2.5x8.750 opening then after I tested fit I marked where the eject and power buttons are and used a .750 bit with center at edge of opening and drilled 2 half circles so my finger could reach the buttons if ever needed.


----------



## aaranddeeman

bigboar said:


> Thanks, went and picked it up today and installed it a little bit ago. I think I am good to go for awhile now and am going to sit back and enjoy the 4040 for the next few years..very happy with it. Its my first projector purchase.


Looks pretty darn fantastic in that rack.


----------



## Ronman79

bigboar said:


> Thanks, went and picked it up today and installed it a little bit ago. I think I am good to go for awhile now and am going to sit back and enjoy the 4040 for the next few years..very happy with it. Its my first projector purchase.


Very nice 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## rd7723

xrider said:


> I´m interested to hear what you think when you get it.
> I bought 5040ub after month of thinking between that and a Sony 75 940D. But my conculsion was that sure the 940D will give me better image quality. But I don´t think I can go down in screen size(Already had a sanyo z2000 and 90 inch screen). So I went for 5040ub and a 106 inch screen .


I had to send my 5040 back due to the hdmi inputs stopped working. I was also considering the 940d or getting another 5040. Please let us know what you think.


----------



## John Budny

Took some comparison shots of my 5040UB playing the Magnificent 7 Blu-ray on the Oppo 203 and then the 4K Ultra HD disc. 

In the composite images the first picture is the Blu-ray (it is being upconverted by the Oppo 203 and it is in the Bright Cinema color mode), the second is the 4K disc defaulted in Bright Cinema to HDR 2 and the third image is the 4K disc in Bright Cinema with the HDR 1 preset. 

I have not calibrated the projector so all picture settings are default.


----------



## seplant

ndabunka said:


> I can confirm that the FI option IS AVAILABLE while running 4k enhancement AS LONG AS the frame rate is set to the 24fps that is used by BluRay DVDs. The only time FI is not available (as described above) is when one is running the signalling at the higher 60Hz frame rates. In those cases, FI is greyed out as described in the review quoted above.


ndabunka

Sorry to bring up this old post, but how do you set the frame rate to 24fps? Isn't that automatically set based on the source material? I'm playing a Blu-ray and the Info screen shows a 23.98 Hz refresh rate but the frame interpolation option is still grayed out. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## spiff0013

John Budny said:


> Took some comparison shots of my 5040UB playing the Magnificent 7 Blu-ray on the Oppo 203 and then the 4K Ultra HD disc.
> 
> In the composite images the first picture is the Blu-ray (it is being upconverted by the Oppo 203 and it is in the Bright Cinema color mode), the second is the 4K disc defaulted in Bright Cinema to HDR 2 and the third image is the 4K disc in Bright Cinema with the HDR 1 preset.
> 
> I have not calibrated the projector so all picture settings are default.


I'm seeing similar results with my 5040UB + Oppo 203. I'm relatively new to the whole 4K game, but I thought everything was supposed to be 'brighter', 'clearer', 'sharper', more vibrant, etc. So I bit the bullet on all these upgrades for my theater, bought a couple 4K Bluray, sat down with my popcorn ready to be amazed, and was very underwhelmed and disappointed by how dark everything looks. Am I just missing something with a setting somewhere or calibration? 

1080p regular Bluray looks great in Bright Cinema using projectorreviews.com calibration settings, but 4K looks like a dark muddy mess. I've played around with settings, but I feel like I'm missing something obvious...


----------



## bezlar

spiff0013 said:


> I'm seeing similar results with my 5040UB + Oppo 203. I'm relatively new to the whole 4K game, but I thought everything was supposed to be 'brighter', 'clearer', 'sharper', more vibrant, etc. So I bit the bullet on all these upgrades for my theater, bought a couple 4K Bluray, sat down with my popcorn ready to be amazed, and was very underwhelmed and disappointed by how dark everything looks. Am I just missing something with a setting somewhere or calibration?
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p regular Bluray looks great in Bright Cinema using projectorreviews.com calibration settings, but 4K looks like a dark muddy mess. I've played around with settings, but I feel like I'm missing something obvious...




Look at the clouds in the first set of photos. Third image is fantastic. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

spiff0013 said:


> I'm seeing similar results with my 5040UB + Oppo 203. I'm relatively new to the whole 4K game, but *I thought everything was supposed to be 'brighter', 'clearer', 'sharper', more vibrant, etc. *So I bit the bullet on all these upgrades for my theater, bought a couple 4K Bluray, sat down with my popcorn ready to be amazed, and was very underwhelmed and disappointed by how dark everything looks. Am I just missing something with a setting somewhere or calibration?
> 
> 1080p regular Bluray looks great in Bright Cinema using projectorreviews.com calibration settings, but 4K looks like a dark muddy mess. I've played around with settings, but I feel like I'm missing something obvious...


As you eluded to, everything is brighter, clearer, sharper, and more vibrant. The dark images require an understanding of HDR and how it relates to projectors at this time.

To familiarize yourself with some of the contributing factors and solutions, please search this thread for "HDR and dark images/pictures" or review posts in this thread starting at the beginning of December. Some members have posted their personal settings and or solutions...i.e. see @rupedogg24 (post #3758) and @bezlar (post #3681) for differing preferences. Bottom line, there appears to be an inconsistency in UHD mastering and current projectors do not yet have the same lumen capability of flat panel displays for optimum HDR performance.


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> Forgot to also include the effect on contrast.
> 
> Normal:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Expanded:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see with normal lots of clipping and this is why calman is also telling me that whites are being clipped.
> 
> What I have discovered is that if you have normal mode active and the enable Epson super white the whites are no longer clipped and you can see the full range just like expanded mode is active.
> 
> It also seems to have no effect on the brightness test pattern in terms of it being altered when switching between on and off.


Super white "on" is indeed the right setting.


----------



## Dave Harper

MDesigns said:


> If we are talking about the projectors setting, doesn't it work like this:
> 
> When using normal, the projector uses it's full dynamic range to display values 16-235 and you are not able to see 0-15 and 236-255. When you change to expanded, you can see all the levels including the 0-15 and 236-255.
> 
> But since the BTB(0-15) and WTW(236-255) levels usually doesn't contain any information, normal mode is recommended. Also with normal mode you are not wasting brightness to displaying WTW signals.






AdamAttewell said:


> My source is a Panasonic UB700 set to normal mode which another poster tells me is video mode.
> 
> 
> 
> My pattern generator is a lumagen radiance with levels set to video.
> 
> 
> 
> I have super white off but turning it on stops the clipping occuring.
> 
> 
> 
> What does super white actually do?






AdamAttewell said:


> Just in case I am not explaining what's happening very well, here are some pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> Both are with the contrast cranked way too high so it is easy to see what's happening in pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> Normal mode:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Expanded:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures are not very good but you can see that in normal mode everything above 16 is clipped but in expanded you can see above 16.
> 
> 
> 
> Both pictures are with the contrast set to 70 and no matter how high you crank the contrast with hdmi video range set to normal you never see anything above 16.
> 
> 
> 
> So should I calibrate with normal or expanded mode enabled as I am very confused.






AdamAttewell said:


> Forgot to also include the effect on contrast.
> 
> 
> 
> Normal:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Expanded:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see with normal lots of clipping and this is why calman is also telling me that whites are being clipped.
> 
> 
> 
> What I have discovered is that if you have normal mode active and the enable Epson super white the whites are no longer clipped and you can see the full range just like expanded mode is active.
> 
> 
> 
> It also seems to have no effect on the brightness test pattern in terms of it being altered when switching between on and off.



This explains it all way better than I ever could. Sometimes I confuse myself too, and I probably did with you as well! 

This link also explains "Super White", which is basically just allowing whiter than white above 236. 

http://referencehometheater.com/2014/commentary/rgb-full-vs-limited/


----------



## nielvm

spiff0013 said:


> I'm seeing similar results with my 5040UB + Oppo 203. I'm relatively new to the whole 4K game, but I thought everything was supposed to be 'brighter', 'clearer', 'sharper', more vibrant, etc. So I bit the bullet on all these upgrades for my theater, bought a couple 4K Bluray, sat down with my popcorn ready to be amazed, and was very underwhelmed and disappointed by how dark everything looks. Am I just missing something with a setting somewhere or calibration?
> 
> 1080p regular Bluray looks great in Bright Cinema using projectorreviews.com calibration settings, but 4K looks like a dark muddy mess. I've played around with settings, but I feel like I'm missing something obvious...


To look at hdr images with the wider color gamut bt2020, you should use the cinema or digital cinema mode. You'll hear a filter coming in front of the light pad enabeling a wider gamut. For hdr, Lots of people manually change the hdr2 mode to hdr1. This gives an overall brighter image, bit clips a lot of higher regions

I've tried and tested a lot of settings. Peronally i prefer upping the brightnes to about 60 and leave the hdr mode to automatic (2). With hdr I set the epson superwhite to "off". These two settings don't clip as much white as the hdr1 mode, but gives an overall bright and nice picture imo.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dave Harper said:


> This explains it all way better than I ever could. Sometimes I confuse myself too, and I probably did with you as well!
> 
> This link also explains "Super White", which is basically just allowing whiter than white above 236.
> 
> http://referencehometheater.com/2014/commentary/rgb-full-vs-limited/


So just to confirm before doing calibration I should set HDMI video range to "Normal" and Epson Super White turned on?

It's just that even when Epson Super White is enabled you still cant see above video black with the black clipping pattern.


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> So just to confirm before doing calibration I should set HDMI video range to "Normal" and Epson Super White turned on?


Yes


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Yes


Even though black still clips in normal mode with super white turned on?


----------



## nielvm

I don't have blacks clipping with superwhite set to on...

Brightness and contrast are set at 50 with me...


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> I don't have blacks clipping with superwhite set to on...
> 
> Brightness and contrast are set at 50 with me...


If I have HDMI video range set to normal & Super White turned on and then open the black clipping patterned on the AVS 709 HD test pattern disk no matter how high I turn the brightness no bars will appear above level 16 (Reference Black). Just like my picture.

Which makes setting the brightness impossible.


----------



## nielvm

I'll check how this is displayed with me later today.


----------



## Glenn Rubin

*Looking for a device that can stream apps in HDR*

Hello, 

I'm relatively new to here but thought I'd ask if anyone know of any device that can stream apps (Amazon, Netflix, Youtube etc) video in HDR to my Epson 5040UBE ? 

I'm not so much interested in Bluray 4K/HDR but more so just streaming. 

Right now I have a Roku Ultra and although the picture in 4K is tremendous I really want to see what the 4K/HDR looks like. 

Thanks,
Glenn


----------



## Glenn Rubin

*Also looking for calibration settings*

If anyone can steer me to a site or has some professional calibrations settings that would be great.


----------



## john barlow

bigboar said:


> Thanks, went and picked it up today and installed it a little bit ago. I think I am good to go for awhile now and am going to sit back and enjoy the 4040 for the next few years..very happy with it. Its my first projector purchase.


Nice looking theater there. You build that yourself? My hats off to the designer and builder. I have a medium sized 2nd floor HT that I built before we moved into our house. The only piece of equipment from that 2010 build is the Stewart 130" Cinemascope screen. Third projector and all new electronics + extra subwoofer rounded me out. I have to be torn kicking and screaming every night to shut down the family theater.


----------



## john barlow

Glenn Rubin said:


> If anyone can steer me to a site or has some professional calibrations settings that would be great.


Ditto!


----------



## bigboar

john barlow said:


> Nice looking theater there. You build that yourself? My hats off to the designer and builder. I have a medium sized 2nd floor HT that I built before we moved into our house. The only piece of equipment from that 2010 build is the Stewart 130" Cinemascope screen. Third projector and all new electronics + extra subwoofer rounded me out. I have to be torn kicking and screaming every night to shut down the family theater.


thanks John! I did. the whole thing started when i bought one of the vivitek h1186 projectors. Long story short, its still sitting upstairs new in the box...:laugh:


----------



## aaranddeeman

AdamAttewell said:


> If I have HDMI video range set to normal & Super White turned on and then open the black clipping patterned on the AVS 709 HD test pattern disk no matter how high I turn the brightness no bars will appear above level 16 (Reference Black). Just like my picture.
> 
> Which makes setting the brightness impossible.


when using clipping patterns to set your Brightness and Contrast controls, please do the following 

1. Set HDMI range to Auto
2. Set Super white to On
3. Adjust your brightness and contrast controls using appropriate patterns
4. Now you can choose to leave HDMI range to Auto (as long as your source is using Limited/Normal for all video content) or change it to "Normal"
5. Super white can be left "On" if you want to see the rare WTW content that appear once in a blue moon


----------



## AdamAttewell

aaranddeeman said:


> when using clipping patterns to set your Brightness and Contrast controls, please do the following
> 
> 1. Set HDMI range to Auto
> 2. Set Super white to On
> 3. Adjust your brightness and contrast controls using appropriate patterns
> 4. Now you can choose to leave HDMI range to Auto (as long as your source is using Limited/Normal for all video content) or change it to "Normal"
> 5. Super white can be left "On" if you want to see the rare WTW content that appear once in a blue moon


Ok but how do I know I have set the brightness level correctly? 

As when Auto/normal is enabled I cant see above reference black (level 16) because the epson is clipping it. 

How do I know I have the correct brightness level?


----------



## nielvm

Just tried, raising the brigthness above 50 makes the bars below 16 visible...


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Just tried, raising the brigthness above 50 makes the bars below 16 visible...


This is not the case for me when HDMI Video Range is on normal/auto mode.


----------



## nielvm

Do you start in the "normal" setting?


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Do you start in the "normal" setting?


Tried both Normal & Auto both do the same.

I found this in another thread and it is exactly what happens with mine.

1) HDMI Normal, Super White Off: HDMI will not pass blacker than black (levels 1-15) and whiter than white (levels 236-255) is clipped at the default Contrast setting of 0.

2) HDMI Normal, Super White On: HDMI will not pass blacker than black, but will pass whiter than white all the way to 255 with Contrast at 0.

3) HDMI Extended, (Super White grayed out): HDMI will pass blacker than black with Brightness at 0, requiring brightness to be calibrated down to compensate, and will pass whiter than white to its limit with Contrast at 0.


----------



## nielvm

I mean the color mode...


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> I mean the color mode...


Using Natural for SDR.


----------



## nielvm

Strange, same here...

Could it be your mediaplayer who is sending out the wrong signal then?


----------



## gnolivos

For me, using a PS4 as player, the only way to get the calibration correct for brightness and contrast (btb, wtw) was to have hdmi auto and Super White OFF. 

IN FACT Super White ON made the blacks (and any dark scene for that matter) completely unwatchable. So superwhite ON for me was a no no. 

I I am thinking that based on the account of several posters here, the correct settings on the Epson may depend on your specific player.


----------



## aaranddeeman

AdamAttewell said:


> Ok but how do I know I have set the brightness level correctly?
> 
> As when Auto/normal is enabled I cant see above reference black (level 16) because the epson is clipping it.
> 
> How do I know I have the correct brightness level?


Your source may be sending only limited. 
I (and many others) do see the BTB either in Auto or Expanded


----------



## aaranddeeman

AdamAttewell said:


> Tried both Normal & Auto both do the same.
> 
> I found this in another thread and it is exactly what happens with mine.
> 
> 1) HDMI Normal, Super White Off: HDMI will not pass blacker than black (levels 1-15) and whiter than white (levels 236-255) is clipped at the default Contrast setting of 0.
> 
> 2) HDMI Normal, Super White On: HDMI will not pass blacker than black, but will pass whiter than white all the way to 255 with Contrast at 0.
> 
> 3) HDMI Extended, (Super White grayed out): HDMI will pass blacker than black with Brightness at 0, requiring brightness to be calibrated down to compensate, and will pass whiter than white to its limit with Contrast at 0.


Default contrast (or brightness or anything else) is not 0, it's 50
Also note HDMI expanded and Superwhite can not be used together. One grey's out when other is selected.


----------



## ndabunka

AdamAttewell said:


> Tried both Normal & Auto both do the same.
> 
> I found this in another thread and it is exactly what happens with mine.
> 
> 1) HDMI Normal, Super White Off: HDMI will not pass blacker than black (levels 1-15) and whiter than white (levels 236-255) is clipped at the default Contrast setting of 0.
> 
> 2) HDMI Normal, Super White On: HDMI will not pass blacker than black, but will pass whiter than white all the way to 255 with Contrast at 0.
> 
> 3) HDMI Extended, (Super White grayed out): HDMI will pass blacker than black with Brightness at 0, requiring brightness to be calibrated down to compensate, and will pass whiter than white to its limit with Contrast at 0.


What are the output settings on your bluray player and which product are you using. If it's a normal bluray player then it should be sending normal. If it's a XboxOne, Playstation or a computer then it may be trying to send Extended which is why you may be seeing what you are seeing on the projector. If you have an AVR in-line between the source bluray and the projector, it too could be complicating the equation (or not)


----------



## Dave Harper

AdamAttewell said:


> So just to confirm before doing calibration I should set HDMI video range to "Normal" and Epson Super White turned on?
> 
> It's just that even when Epson Super White is enabled you still cant see above video black with the black clipping pattern.



Yes that's what I would set it to. 



AdamAttewell said:


> If I have HDMI video range set to normal & Super White turned on and then open the black clipping patterned on the AVS 709 HD test pattern disk no matter how high I turn the brightness no bars will appear above level 16 (Reference Black). Just like my picture.
> 
> Which makes setting the brightness impossible.


You keep saying you can't see the blacks "above level 16". I think that's what is screwing people up too because it's not clipping levels ABOVE 16, you should be saying it's clipping blacks BELOW digital level 16. 



aaranddeeman said:


> when using clipping patterns to set your Brightness and Contrast controls, please do the following
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Set HDMI range to Auto
> 
> 2. Set Super white to On
> 
> 3. Adjust your brightness and contrast controls using appropriate patterns
> 
> 4. Now you can choose to leave HDMI range to Auto (as long as your source is using Limited/Normal for all video content) or change it to "Normal"
> 
> 5. Super white can be left "On" if you want to see the rare WTW content that appear once in a blue moon



This is good advice. 



gnolivos said:


> For me, using a PS4 as player, the only way to get the calibration correct for brightness and contrast (btb, wtw) was to have hdmi auto and Super White OFF.
> 
> IN FACT Super White ON made the blacks (and any dark scene for that matter) completely unwatchable. So superwhite ON for me was a no no.
> 
> I I am thinking that based on the account of several posters here, the correct settings on the Epson may depend on your specific player.



This makes me think I recall reading that someone reported that the Epson, when Super White was turned on, would drop the whole range from 16-255 down to like 0-240 or some such BS. Maybe this is what's happening?

I agree this is extremely source dependent and any one of many possibilities and variables between source and display can whack this mole into a messed up state. And there's always that ONE brand and model device that screwed up and is sending the wrong signal for its setting too! This used to be much more of an issue than it is now though. Early DVD players were the worst! 



ndabunka said:


> What are the output settings on your bluray player and which product are you using. If it's a normal bluray player then it should be sending normal. If it's a XboxOne, Playstation or a computer then it may be trying to send Extended which is why you may be seeing what you are seeing on the projector. If you have an AVR in-line between the source bluray and the projector, it too could be complicating the equation (or not)



iirc, he's using a Panasonic UB900 UHD Bluray and a Lumagen video processor. Maybe his Lumagen has an incorrect setting? Good call on the AVR, that could certainly be clipping blacks as well.


----------



## AdamAttewell

ndabunka said:


> What are the output settings on your bluray player and which product are you using. If it's a normal bluray player then it should be sending normal. If it's a XboxOne, Playstation or a computer then it may be trying to send Extended which is why you may be seeing what you are seeing on the projector. If you have an AVR in-line between the source bluray and the projector, it too could be complicating the equation (or not)


I have a panny UB700 but I also have a Sony BDP-S5500 I have tried both with the same results.

I have looked through both players menus and am unable to find a way to change the output levels so I am presuming they are video only. 

I used the Sony player with my previous projector (HW55ES) and using the AVS patterns a I could see all levels when cranking the levels up or down low we looking at the respective picture control.

I decided to use normal with super white enabled and then used the AVS black clipping pattern by turning the brightness down until I could just barley see level 15. With super white on the white clipping pattern works as intended.





Dave Harper said:


> Yes that's what I would set it to.
> 
> 
> 
> You keep saying you can't see the blacks "above level 16". I think that's what is screwing people up too because it's not clipping levels ABOVE 16, you should be saying it's clipping blacks BELOW digital level 16.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good advice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This makes me think I recall reading that someone reported that the Epson, when Super White was turned on, would drop the whole range from 16-255 down to like 0-240 or some such BS. Maybe this is what's happening?
> 
> I agree this is extremely source dependent and any one of many possibilities and variables between source and display can whack this mole into a messed up state. And there's always that ONE brand and model device that screwed up and is sending the wrong signal for its setting too! This used to be much more of an issue than it is now though. Early DVD players were the worst!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> iirc, he's using a Panasonic UB900 UHD Bluray and a Lumagen video processor. Maybe his Lumagen has an incorrect setting? Good call on the AVR, that could certainly be clipping blacks as well.


I also thought my lumagen was causing this so I decided to bypass it but it made no difference. Also there is no AVR in the video chain.


----------



## Dave Harper

Oh that's right, it's a Panasonic UB700, not 900. I have the 900, so I'll have to check mine. Do you have another calibration disc or Bluray with patterns to set white and black levels, like DVE, Disney Wow, Spears and Munsil or Bluray with THX (Optimizer) or from Sony Pictures (hit 7669, spells Sony, at main menu)?

Sounds like we need to brainstorm the settings on the Epson to see what could be up. I no longer have the 5040, so I may be out at this point. 

It seems to be a head scratcher, but I'm sure it's something obvious we're missing.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dave Harper said:


> Oh that's right, it's a Panasonic UB700, not 900. I have the 900, so I'll have to check mine. Do you have another calibration disc or Bluray with patterns to set white and black levels, like DVE, Disney Wow, Spears and Munsil or Bluray with THX (Optimizer) or from Sony Pictures (hit 7669, spells Sony, at main menu)?
> 
> Sounds like we need to brainstorm the settings on the Epson to see what could be up. I no longer have the 5040, so I may be out at this point.
> 
> It seems to be a head scratcher, but I'm sure it's something obvious we're missing.


I tried the DVE brightness pattern and its the same as the AVS one.


----------



## Dave Harper

AdamAttewell said:


> I tried the DVE brightness pattern and its the same as the AVS one.



What is this setting in your UB700 set to? This is where you can set it to RGB Standard (Normal) or Enhanced (Expanded). YCbCr doesn't offer that option. Try them all and report back.


----------



## spiff0013

nielvm said:


> To look at hdr images with the wider color gamut bt2020, you should use the cinema or digital cinema mode. You'll hear a filter coming in front of the light pad enabeling a wider gamut. For hdr, Lots of people manually change the hdr2 mode to hdr1. This gives an overall brighter image, bit clips a lot of higher regions
> 
> I've tried and tested a lot of settings. Peronally i prefer upping the brightnes to about 60 and leave the hdr mode to automatic (2). With hdr I set the epson superwhite to "off". These two settings don't clip as much white as the hdr1 mode, but gives an overall bright and nice picture imo.


Thanks neilvm, been pouring over this forum today and going to try to mess with the HDR setting as well as Gamma when I get home. Hopefully better results.


----------



## exm

Glenn Rubin said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm relatively new to here but thought I'd ask if anyone know of any device that can stream apps (Amazon, Netflix, Youtube etc) video in HDR to my Epson 5040UBE ?
> 
> I'm not so much interested in Bluray 4K/HDR but more so just streaming.
> 
> Right now I have a Roku Ultra and although the picture in 4K is tremendous I really want to see what the 4K/HDR looks like.
> 
> Thanks,
> Glenn


The Roku Ultra does HDR. I don't think you'll find a better streaming solution as of now.


----------



## seplant

exm said:


> The Roku Ultra does HDR. I don't think you'll find a better streaming solution as of now.


Should the Roku Premiere + do HDR as well?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## exm

seplant said:


> Should the Roku Premiere + do HDR as well?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Yes, that one works as well.


----------



## seplant

exm said:


> Yes, that one works as well.


I'm able to get 4K but not HDR using the Premiere +. I have it set to display 4K HDR under Settings but it says 30fps. I thought the 5040/6040 can take only a 24fps signal. The Premiere + has the latest firmware. Am I missing something else?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## db999md

seplant said:


> I'm able to get 4K but not HDR using the Premiere +. I have it set to display 4K HDR under Settings but it says 30fps. I thought the 5040/6040 can take only a 24fps signal. The Premiere + has the latest firmware. Am I missing something else?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


The Roku Premiere + will do

- 4k HDR from Amazon prime streaming 
- 4k non-HDR from VUDU - vudu's HDR is Dolby Vision which our projectors will not do
- 4k non-HDR from netflix - Netflix insists on 60hz so right now our projector will not do HDR.


----------



## ht guy

db999md said:


> The Roku Premiere + will do
> 
> - 4k HDR from Amazon prime streaming
> - 4k non-HDR from VUDU - vudu's HDR is Dolby Vision which our projectors will not do
> - 4k non-HDR from netflix - Netflix insists on 60hz so right now our projector will not do HDR.


Thanks! Assume the Roku Ultra capabilities (as respects 4k streaming) are the same as the Premiere +?


----------



## chiltonj

Am I the only one who does not prefer HDR? Every 4K UHD content I've tried with HDR1 comes out red. HDR2 is better but darker which causes me to brighten the screen and after I do that, it looks the same to my eyes when just using Auto. I also just set Auto on my Oppo 203 as well. 
Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I just don't get what the fuss is about. 
BTW on another subject - Rocky Mountain Express 4K is pretty cool visually and with Atmos. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## db999md

ht guy said:


> Thanks! Assume the Ultra capabilities (as respects 4k streaming) are the same?


Let me know specifically what you are asking.


----------



## ht guy

db999md said:


> Let me know specifically what you are asking.


Post edited for clarity - just asking about the capabilities of the Roku Ultra vs. Premiere + with respect to 4k.


----------



## aaranddeeman

ht guy said:


> Post edited for clarity - just asking about the capabilities of the Roku Ultra vs. Premiere + with respect to 4k.


https://image.roku.com/ww/docs/US_Prev_vs_New_Comp_Chart_110216-opt.pdf


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

db999md said:


> The Roku Premiere + will do
> 
> - 4k HDR from Amazon prime streaming
> - 4k non-HDR from VUDU - vudu's HDR is Dolby Vision which our projectors will not do
> - 4k non-HDR from netflix - Netflix insists on 60hz so right now our projector will not do HDR.


You need to get an hDFury linker (and maybe integral). I have both hooked up and I can now do any source or content on the projector.

From what I see though, Netflix isn't 10 bit still which causes a lot of banding


----------



## seplant

*Roku & Netflix in HDR*

Looking back through this thread, there appear to be some owners who have been somewhat successful getting HDR to work with Netflix on the Roku Premiere + and/or Ultra:



morellihugo said:


> I got the new roku premiere+, the first two days I wasn't able to have HDR on Netflix, only on Amazon. But yesterday night Netflix started showing HDR content... Maybe the roku have some update overnight, or maybe I'm having issues with my internet conection... I'm using audioquest pearl HDMI cables.





k3nnis said:


> Is the Epson reporting 4K HDR 10bit with Netflix? And is it 24p?





morellihugo said:


> Hi, my 5040 is reporting 4K 8 Bit HDR 2 4:2:0 BT2020, 60hz





morellihugo said:


> The new Roku Premiere+ and Roku Ultra, both support HDR on Netflix and Amazon video. I have the premiere+...





ryanfx said:


> I contacted Roku about this. Apparently the Netflix app (specifically) is broken. If you try another 4K source (such as Amazon) it works fine.





avsBuddy said:


> Unfortunately 5040 can only handle HDR using 24p HDR-10 signal in 4:2:2, but not in 4:4:4 or 4:2:0. See if there is a way to force Roku to use HDR format that is compatible with Epson.





GizmoSprocket said:


> I have been able to get it to work from roku's Amazon app mostly... and rarely from Roku's Netflix app. I often have to change from 4K HDR tv to 1080p and back... sometimes physically rebooting the Roku. It is not usable and I plan on opening an issue with Roku about it later this week or early next week. Meanwhile it works very reliably from my Philip 4K player and Amazon Fire 4K. This is with two different 18gbs cables, one being a MP Luxe active 50 foot.





GizmoSprocket said:


> I had been so disappointed by the reliability of Netflix on Roku to support HDR. Like many on this forum, it disappears and I need to reboot, sometimes disconnect it... sacrifice a virgin to a blood god, etc... to get HDR to come back on the Netflix app on Roku. To me, the reliability is laughably bad. It is unusable and bothers me because HDR support is exactly why I got the Ultra.





Kelvin1000 said:


> The Roku Ultra received a firmware update and I can confirm that it can now display 4K HDR at 24Hz (same format as 4K UHD Blu-rays) with the Epson 5040ub.





db999md said:


> The Roku Premiere + will do
> 
> - 4k HDR from Amazon prime streaming
> - 4k non-HDR from VUDU - vudu's HDR is Dolby Vision which our projectors will not do
> - 4k non-HDR from netflix - Netflix insists on 60hz so right now our projector will not do HDR.


I'd be curious to hear back from Kelvin1000 on the confirmation of 4K HDR at 24Hz. Was this with Amazon or Netflix or both? And where was the 24Hz shown? On the Roku or on the projector info screen? My Roku shows only 60Hz or 30Hz.


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

chiltonj said:


> Am I the only one who does not prefer HDR? Every 4K UHD content I've tried with HDR1 comes out red. HDR2 is better but darker which causes me to brighten the screen and after I do that, it looks the same to my eyes when just using Auto. I also just set Auto on my Oppo 203 as well.
> Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I just don't get what the fuss is about.
> BTW on another subject - Rocky Mountain Express 4K is pretty cool visually and with Atmos.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


It's going to look darker. The lighting on hdr is more realistic. Once you adjust to how it looks brightness wise, you will appreciate the highlights and the darkness. This projector has some serious abilities with darker content imo. The best sources are 4k bluray. The Revenant is a great example of this. Darker movie, but it's like in the woods and under trees. The skin tones are more true to life with how light bounces off of them. You can see into the fire and actually see the light from it affecting the surroundings.


----------



## bluer101

I'm finding I like 4K enhance off with 1080p bluray. 

I have 4K off, image enhance at 3, FI at normal. Plus source is Oppo 103d with darbee set at 35-40. This overall settings gives a very crisp picture. 

I don't have any 4K material yet, but would have to guess with 4K enhancement with 4K bluray would be outstanding. 

I'm finding 1080p with 4K enhancement on give a slightly softer picture, with less pixel structure visible.


----------



## ndabunka

chiltonj said:


> Am I the only one who does not prefer HDR? Every 4K UHD content I've tried with HDR1 comes out red. HDR2 is better but darker which causes me to brighten the screen and after I do that, it looks the same to my eyes when just using Auto. I also just set Auto on my Oppo 203 as well.
> Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I just don't get what the fuss is about.
> BTW on another subject - Rocky Mountain Express 4K is pretty cool visually and with Atmos.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


There is a KNOWN issue with the Oppo erroneously sending an overly red/wrong signal. You may want to go to the official Oppo 203 thread for details (why, how, when a fix might come, etc) as the red shift is not due to either the UHD content nor the Epson projector


----------



## aaranddeeman

chiltonj said:


> Am I the only one who does not prefer HDR? Every 4K UHD content I've tried with HDR1 comes out red. HDR2 is better but darker which causes me to brighten the screen and after I do that, it looks the same to my eyes when just using Auto. I also just set Auto on my Oppo 203 as well.
> Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I just don't get what the fuss is about.
> BTW on another subject - Rocky Mountain Express 4K is pretty cool visually and with Atmos.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Honestly, I am enjoying the HDR once I started watching it without any prejudice. Even in the Cinema mode that is supposed to be the lease lumen mode on Epson.
My source is Philips BDP7501 in case you wanted to know.
Looks like among early offerings Philips has stood it's ground (apart from Panasonic). It was surprising that Oppo had to have so many issues (at least reading from that thread. I have no personal experience).


----------



## Dave Harper

bluer101 said:


> ......I'm finding 1080p with 4K enhancement on give a slightly softer picture, with less pixel structure visible.



Isn't that the whole point? You don't see "pixel structure" in real life, do you? It only looks softer because you don't have the pixel structure fooling your eyes. Watch longer with more intensity and you should start to notice a more natural image with fine details starting to show with 4K enhancement on.


----------



## bluer101

Dave Harper said:


> Isn't that the whole point? You don't see "pixel structure" in real life, do you? It only looks softer because you don't have the pixel structure fooling your eyes. Watch longer with more intensity and you should start to notice a more natural image with fine details starting to show with 4K enhancement on.


Yes, you are right. But with 1080p source it just makes it softer. I would assume with 4K source it is crisp.


----------



## Glenn Rubin

exm said:


> The Roku Ultra does HDR. I don't think you'll find a better streaming solution as of now.


Yes it does HDR but can't do HDR with this projector unfortunately. Picture is still very good though, but I really want to check out something streaming with HDR.


----------



## Dave Harper

bluer101 said:


> Yes, you are right. But with 1080p source it just makes it softer. I would assume with 4K source it is crisp.



Yes, because of the false sharpness due to the pixel gaps.


----------



## brianlvi3

bigboar said:


> Thanks, went and picked it up today and installed it a little bit ago. I think I am good to go for awhile now and am going to sit back and enjoy the 4040 for the next few years..very happy with it. Its my first projector purchase.


I noticed you have a Marantz Pre/Pro correct? If so what cable and what length are you running and have you had any glitches? Thanks.


----------



## brianlvi3

brianlvi3 said:


> Fast questions. I just took down my 5020UB and installed my 5040UBE. Haven't had time to play with the settings yet. I see about updating firmware on the 5040. Will it be able to be set up to connect to the internet using Wi Fi for updates?
> 
> Also will the 3D glasses from my 5020 be able to be used with the 5040?
> 
> Thanks.


Anyone? Thanks.


----------



## aaranddeeman

brianlvi3 said:


> Anyone? Thanks.


If you have bought Epson's wifi adapter, then I guess yes. Else you have to use USB stick.


----------



## brianlvi3

aaranddeeman said:


> If you have bought Epson's wifi adapter, then I guess yes. Else you have to use USB stick.


How about the 3S glasses? Thanks for your response.


----------



## bigboar

brianlvi3 said:


> I noticed you have a Marantz Pre/Pro correct? If so what cable and what length are you running and have you had any glitches? Thanks.


its an 18' I bought from partsexpress when i was there buying my sub. not sure of the brand just remember it was on sale for like $12. havent had any glitches.


----------



## gnolivos

bigboar said:


> its an 18' I bought from partsexpress when i was there buying my sub. not sure of the brand just remember it was on sale for like $12. havent had any glitches.




Like me, you must live near Cincinnati?


----------



## SALadder22FF

I debuted the setup at UFC 207. I have the Epson 5040Ube mounted with only power cable. I bought a custom 1' white cable to make it cleaner. Mounted the 120" Screen Innovations Black Diamond Zero Edge with LEDs. Everything is sitting in the BDI Ola 8137 stand. This would be Xbox One Day One Edition with Kinect, Roku Ultra, DirecTV, Marantz SR6011 receiver, Logitech Harmony One to control everything and the Epson wireless transmitter. Very happy with how it turned out. Everyone said pictures don't do it justice and they really don't. Still trying to find the best picture settings, but am loving using the new tech.

A lot of people said the screen isn't what they were expecting. They thought it would be like a big white pull down screen. Because it's 1.4 gain it's more grey, but still looks great off.

Showing off some of the different LED colors. Green for the fight, Red on Hell's Kitchen and purple for a little football.

Also, for you gamers out there I put a little mini Juggernaug from Black Ops Zombies...functioning mini fridge.


----------



## bluer101

SALadder22FF said:


> I debuted the setup at UFC 207. I have the Epson 5040Ube mounted with only power cable. I bought a custom 1' white cable to make it cleaner. Mounted the 120" Screen Innovations Black Diamond Zero Edge with LEDs. Everything is sitting in the BDI Ola 8137 stand. This would be Xbox One Day One Edition with Kinect, Roku Ultra, DirecTV, Marantz SR6011 receiver, Logitech Harmony One to control everything and the Epson wireless transmitter. Very happy with how it turned out. Everyone said pictures don't do it justice and they really don't. Still trying to find the best picture settings, but am loving using the new tech.
> 
> A lot of people said the screen isn't what they were expecting. They thought it would be like a big white pull down screen. Because it's 1.4 gain it's more grey, but still looks great off.
> 
> Showing off some of the different LED colors. Green for the fight, Red on Hell's Kitchen and purple for a little football.
> 
> Also, for you gamers out there I put a little mini Juggernaug from Black Ops Zombies...functioning mini fridge.


In your pictures it looks like you have a back cover on the Epson. Is that one and if so where did you get it?


----------



## SALadder22FF

bluer101 said:


> In your pictures it looks like you have a back cover on the Epson. Is that one and if so where did you get it?


The cover over the inputs? If so, came with it.


----------



## bluer101

SALadder22FF said:


> The cover over the inputs? If so, came with it.


Ok, I guess the Ube comes with it.


----------



## NoTechi

MaximTre said:


> I was referring to games and streaming (I use a different player for uhd movies).
> I have the wireless version too, but I prefer the samsung player.
> 
> If you use the linker and put the X1 in hdr mode, the netflix app will output the correct hdr color space, so the linker it's not forcing anything.
> 
> Just try the switch for 1080p/hdr/10bit and compare to the 4k/hdr/8bit signal, you won't really notice a difference under normal viewing (I prefer 4k signal when using the PS4 Pro with enhanced games, the difference in resolution is noticeable. Without the linker the PS4 is limited @1080p in hdr mode).
> To test 8bit banding, try X1 Horizon 3 menus or PS4 Ratchet & Clank (the level with the "land sharks", look at the sky). Use the switch to quickliy see the difference.


A first try did not brought the results you are mentioning. I did a factory reset with the linker and I get following results with netflix when I use the downscale switch:
reso: 1920x1080
refresh: 59,94Hz
color: 8bit 4:4:4 BT.2020 HDR2
The linker info tells me that it sends 10bit so it looks like the Epson is reducing it. What setting am I missing to get 10bit?

NoTechi


----------



## MaximTre

NoTechi said:


> A first try did not brought the results you are mentioning. I did a factory reset with the linker and I get following results with netflix when I use the downscale switch:
> reso: 1920x1080
> refresh: 59,94Hz
> color: 8bit 4:4:4 BT.2020 HDR2
> The linker info tells me that it sends 10bit so it looks like the Epson is reducing it. What setting am I missing to get 10bit?
> 
> NoTechi


You are using the wireless connection, right? I have the wireless version too, I faced the same problem.
For some reason the wireless units sends an 8 bit signal @ 4:4:4 1080p, there's no way to to get more bits even if it should.
You need to use the wired connection to get a 10bit or 12 bit signal with the linker. 
It's not Linker fault, it's the wireless unit, I tried everything.


----------



## NoTechi

MaximTre said:


> You are using the wireless connection, right? I have the wireless version too, I faced the same problem.
> For some reason the wireless units sends an 8 bit signal @ 4:4:4 1080p, there's no way to to get more bits even if it should.
> You need to use the wired connection to get a 10bit or 12 bit signal with the linker.
> It's not Linker fault, it's the wireless unit, I tried everything.


Yes I got the wireless connection since it supports 4:4:4 @ 24hz without linker for UHD movies. Bit disappointing to hear now that just the wired connection is getting me 10bit @ 4:4:4 1080p.
Many thanks for the info safes me lots of time trying all kind of settings! 
I might go for a wired/non wired mix. Wired for all streaming and gaming and non wired for UHD movies. My user profile is like 95% streaming from Netflix, movies from a NAS and gaming and just 5% watching UHDs. So going wired 95% of the time might also reduce the sometimes pretty long initial handshakes when changing resolutions/sources.

NoTechi


----------



## DonRSD

What is the latest firmware revision for the 5040 and where would I download the latest firmware from?
I can't find it anywhere on Epson's website.

Help!!!


----------



## Despoiler

DonRSD said:


> What is the latest firmware revision for the 5040 and where would I download the latest firmware from?
> I can't find it anywhere on Epson's website.
> 
> Help!!!


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

1.08/1.04

Second section from the bottom or CTRL+F 5040


----------



## mase1981

DonRSD said:


> What is the latest firmware revision for the 5040 and where would I download the latest firmware from?
> I can't find it anywhere on Epson's website.
> 
> Help!!!


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## DonRSD

Despoiler said:


> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> 1.08/1.04
> 
> Second section from the bottom or CTRL+F 5040





mase1981 said:


> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


Thank you!!!
For some reason, I couldn't find it


----------



## rjguk

The Epson 6040/9300 shows up in the Cine4Home test of the Acer 4k DLP projector in some comparison shots. However, the Epson screenshots look like the panel alignment is way off. If that Epson was mine I'd be taking a very close look at the panel settings...

http://cine4home.de/test-premiere-a...t-neuer-dlp-uhd-technik-ein-comeback-von-dlp/

The comparison shot of the street signs makes it look like the Epson was dropped from a height. Not sure what that does for their credibility.


----------



## talon95

rjguk said:


> The Epson 6040/9300 shows up in the Cine4Home test of the Acer 4k DLP projector in some comparison shots. However, the Epson screenshots look like the panel alignment is way off. If that Epson was mine I'd be taking a very close look at the panel settings...
> 
> http://cine4home.de/test-premiere-a...t-neuer-dlp-uhd-technik-ein-comeback-von-dlp/
> 
> The comparison shot of the street signs makes it look like the Epson was dropped from a height. Not sure what that does for their credibility.


Yea I think the blue was at least off on the Epson. Still the Acer looks great in those shots, but with a CR of 1600 at best, I wouldn't even consider it. I'd rather have my Epson 5030UB than that. I still have a Benq W6000 with that level of contrast and it totally sucks compared to the 5030.

They did mention something I've thought all along though. The only way a projector can do HDR well is with high ANSI contrast. Absolute brightness and on/off contrast isn't enough.


----------



## LumenChip

Despoiler said:


> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> 1.08/1.04
> 
> Second section from the bottom or CTRL+F 5040


My freshly minted 6040UB is at firmware 1.51, this makes me wonder if the firmware on the link is outdated.


----------



## Despoiler

LumenChip said:


> My newly installed 6040UB is at firmware 1.51, this makes me wonder if the firmware on the link is outdated.


Could be why the firmware isn't directly linked off the device's support page.


----------



## swarm87

want to get a projector and I really like this one(already have a vizio p55 and want a larger screen for movies while still being able to keep 4k and hdr) my throw from wall to where I can put the screen is exactly 120" is this projector a viable option?


----------



## Smarty-pants

bluer101 said:


> In your pictures it looks like you have a back cover on the Epson. Is that one and if so where did you get it?


The back cover only comes included with the wireless version of the 5040.
This is because you can set up the 5040UB*e* so that the only cable connected is the power cable.
Thus, you do not need the physical connections on the back of the unit, like the HDMI inputs. So those inputs can be covered up.
If you are using the standard/non-wireless 5040, then you must use HDMI or other cables, and when doing that then the cover can not be placed on the back since the cable(s) are in the way, so the cover is not included with the non-wireless version.

It does seem like they could have easily cut a couple of holes in the panel for HDMI cables to go through while still being able to cover the rear input panel. I mean it's only plastic panel, and it was already developed for the projector, so seems like something small they could have included for the $3000 price paid.

However there are a lot of other features I would rather see that we probably won't, which is disappointing.
Like being able to save BLANKING and HDR modes to specific memory saves, and a proper zoom mode to counter the curvature of a curved screen, and a vertical stretch mode for use with anamorphic lenses.
It's unfortunate that this projector seems to cater more to the gaming demographic rather than the home theater one.


----------



## Smarty-pants

ndabunka said:


> There is a KNOWN issue with the Oppo erroneously sending an overly red/wrong signal. You may want to go to the official Oppo 203 thread for details (why, how, when a fix might come, etc) as the red shift is not due to either the UHD content nor the Epson projector


That is only when using the experimental STRIP METADATA setting in the 203.
There is no red push when using the player normally with HDR set to AUTO, ON, or OFF.
The issues with STRIP METADATA and other bugs should be fixed soon with firmware updates.


----------



## chiltonj

Smarty-pants said:


> The back cover only comes included with the wireless version of the 5040.
> This is because you can set up the 5040UB*e* so that the only cable connected is the power cable.
> Thus, you do not need the physical connections on the back of the unit, like the HDMI inputs. So those inputs can be covered up.
> If you are using the standard/non-wireless 5040, then you must use HDMI or other cables, and when doing that then the cover can not be placed on the back since the cable(s) are in the way, so the cover is not included with the non-wireless version.
> 
> It does seem like they could have easily cut a couple of holes in the panel for HDMI cables to go through while still being able to cover the rear input panel. I mean it's only plastic panel, and it was already developed for the projector, so seems like something small they could have included for the $3000 price paid.
> 
> However there are a lot of other features I would rather see that we probably won't, which is disappointing.
> Like being able to save BLANKING and HDR modes to specific memory saves, and a proper zoom mode to counter the curvature of a curved screen, and a vertical stretch mode for use with anamorphic lenses.
> It's unfortunate that this projector seems to cater more to the gaming demographic rather than the home theater one.


Back panel comes with the 6040 as well...FYI. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Smarty-pants

AdamAttewell said:


> Ok but how do I know I have set the brightness level correctly?
> 
> As when Auto/normal is enabled I cant see above reference black (level 16) because the epson is clipping it.
> 
> How do I know I have the correct brightness level?


All you need to do is turn brightness down until you can not see the 18 marker on screen.
Then raise brightness until you see the 18 marker and you are good to go.

You aren't actually supposed to see anything below 18 (maybe just a smidge of 17).
Just because you can see BTB when using expanded RGB doesn't make it better.

I also saw some comments when you were claiming to adjust CONTRAST with that pattern.
The BTB patterns are only for BRIGHTNESS, and the WTW patterns are only for CONTRAST.
While they can sometimes affect each other, just go back and forth between the patters and make sure they both look correct.
If you adjust brightness to see 16, then make a large adjustment to contrast, you may have to change brightness by a notch to counter it,
but not always, but just remember that brightness is used for the dark BTB patterns, and contrast is used for the bright WTW patterns.


----------



## Smarty-pants

John Budny said:


> Took some comparison shots of my 5040UB playing the Magnificent 7 Blu-ray on the Oppo 203 and then the 4K Ultra HD disc.
> 
> In the composite images the first picture is the Blu-ray (it is being upconverted by the Oppo 203 and it is in the Bright Cinema color mode), the second is the 4K disc defaulted in Bright Cinema to HDR 2 and the third image is the 4K disc in Bright Cinema with the HDR 1 preset.
> 
> I have not calibrated the projector so all picture settings are default.


Those are excellent screenshot comparisons. Thank you so much for posting them.
Obviously a lot of discussion follows them for good reason.

As another poster suggested, you really do want to use either the DIGITAL CINEMA or CINEMA color modes since those two color modes are the ones with the proper filter in place for the wider color gamuts.
While the default settings of the 5040 are actually quite good, you will benefit from doing at least a basic calibration of brightness/contrast/color/tint to make sure you get the best possible picture outside of a more in depth calibration.

It would also be fantastic to see some screenshots with the STRIP METADATA mode enabled in the Oppo 203 to demonstrate what it looks like compared to the other screenshots. However, as I mentioned above, that function in the 203 is still experimental and not working properly yet, so better to wait until a firmware update fixes it.

I always have such a hard time getting good screenshot pics of my setup.
I don't do a lot of photography outside of just using my phone, but my phone has a really nice mode that takes great shots of stuff in low lighting, but impossible to do without setting up something like a tripod to do it with.
I need to find a cheap tripod I can use with my phone for such things.


----------



## bigboar

gnolivos said:


> Like me, you must live near Cincinnati?


yes. I am in wayne township. kinda in between hamilton and middletown.


----------



## Smarty-pants

chiltonj said:


> Back panel comes with the 6040 as well...FYI.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Well that shoots my theory all to hell then, lol.
I wonder why the 5040 doesn't come with the panel.
Am I correct that it can't effectively be used when cables are attached to the rear?
If so then that is odd that it is even included with the 6040, UNLESS perhaps somehow the 6040 is compatible with the wireless hub that comes with the 5040UBe, or perhaps they were planning on that but decided before release not to include it with the 6040.
That's all just guessing, but just food for thought...


----------



## aaranddeeman

Smarty-pants said:


> Well that shoots my theory all to hell then, lol.
> I wonder why the 5040 doesn't come with the panel.
> Am I correct that it can't effectively be used when cables are attached to the rear?
> If so then that is odd that it is even included with the 6040, UNLESS perhaps somehow the 6040 is compatible with the wireless hub that comes with the 5040UBe, or perhaps they were planning on that but decided before release not to include it with the 6040.
> That's all just guessing, but just food for thought...


As much I wanted to mount the back panel on my 6040, I refrained myself after seeing the pressure it exerts on the HDMI cable (almost making it torn in 90 degree). For the fear of it causing issues to the cable, I boxed it up and tucked it away.
I guess it makes sense only on wireless units and/or with the HDMI cables that are thin and flexible.


----------



## Smarty-pants

aaranddeeman said:


> As much I wanted to mount the back panel on my 6040, I refrained myself after seeing the pressure it exerts on the HDMI cable (almost making it torn in 90 degree). For the fear of it causing issues to the cable, I boxed it up and tucked it away.
> I guess it makes sense only on wireless units and/or with the HDMI cables that are thin and flexible.


If I had one I would try just cutting a hole in it so the HDMI cable could go through that and the rest covered up.
Honestly speaking though, it's not that big of a deal to me that the back is covered, and mine really is out in the
open where everyone can see the back, but I would trade that for Epson fixing some of their issues instead.


----------



## chiltonj

aaranddeeman said:


> As much I wanted to mount the back panel on my 6040, I refrained myself after seeing the pressure it exerts on the HDMI cable (almost making it torn in 90 degree). For the fear of it causing issues to the cable, I boxed it up and tucked it away.
> I guess it makes sense only on wireless units and/or with the HDMI cables that are thin and flexible.


Ditto, same here. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## chiltonj

Smarty-pants said:


> If I had one I would try just cutting a hole in it so the HDMI cable could go through that and the rest covered up.
> Honestly speaking though, it's not that big of a deal to me that the back is covered, and mine really is out in the
> open where everyone can see the back, but I would trade that for Epson fixing some of their issues instead.


Mine is smokey black plastic to match the 6040, not sure what color the one is with the wireless. I'd hope that it matches the unit, assuming white. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## chiltonj

Potentially dumb observation: projector info shows input information. I don't see output information which would be nice to see input 1080p and 4k out with enhancement on. Guess the projector doesn't upconvert the signal per se. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## bigboar

Smarty-pants said:


> Well that shoots my theory all to hell then, lol.
> I wonder why the 5040 doesn't come with the panel.
> Am I correct that it can't effectively be used when cables are attached to the rear?
> If so then that is odd that it is even included with the 6040, UNLESS perhaps somehow the 6040 is compatible with the wireless hub that comes with the 5040UBe, or perhaps they were planning on that but decided before release not to include it with the 6040.
> That's all just guessing, but just food for thought...


My 4040 came with the back panel also. There is enough spacing that i was able to get all the extra power cord that was left and my regular hdmi inside.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Smarty-pants said:


> If I had one I would try just cutting a hole in it so the HDMI cable could go through that and the rest covered up.
> Honestly speaking though, it's not that big of a deal to me that the back is covered, and mine really is out in the
> open where everyone can see the back, but I would trade that for Epson fixing some of their issues instead.


Sounds like a good idea.
I will think about it when the "newness" of this PJ is over..


----------



## bigboar

Smarty-pants said:


> If I had one I would try just cutting a hole in it so the HDMI cable could go through that and the rest covered up.
> Honestly speaking though, it's not that big of a deal to me that the back is covered, and mine really is out in the
> open where everyone can see the back, but I would trade that for Epson fixing some of their issues instead.


there must be different covers or something because my back cover fit a bunch of cord plus my hdmi cable no problem, the cable isnt smashed against the back or anything. here is a couple pics trying to show the room in behind it and showing the power cord wound up inside it.


----------



## aaranddeeman

bigboar said:


> there must be different covers or something because my back cover fit a bunch of cord plus my hdmi cable no problem, the cable isnt smashed against the back or anything. here is a couple pics trying to show the room in behind it and showing the power cord wound up inside it.


Yes. It's the same. Depends on how stiff the cable is. Unless you have some slack in the cable, it will make hard 90 degree turn.


----------



## bigboar

aaranddeeman said:


> Yes. It's the same. Depends on how stiff the cable is. Unless you have some slack in the cable, it will make hard 90 degree turn.


Ok. makes sense.


----------



## aaranddeeman

aaranddeeman said:


> Honestly, I am enjoying the HDR once I started watching it without any prejudice. Even in the Cinema mode that is supposed to be the lease lumen mode on Epson.


I would like to reiterate again. HDR looks fantastic. Just watched Lucy..
Just do the following
- Pick a right movie (e.g. Lucy, X-men Apocalypse)
- Set the mode to HDR1
- Watch the movie start to end and don't keep flipping between SDR and HDR

There are right lumens at right places. E.g. in Lucy when she crosses 80% there us scene where there is full white background and Lucy in foreground in black attire. That white is so freakin bright (even in Cinema mode).
So yeah. HDR is for me now. I have stopped complaining.

Stop flipping, Start enjoying... That should be your new year's resolution..


----------



## ht guy

How does one buy a warrantied 6040? I searched the Epson website without finding any list of authorized dealers.

From an installer, I assume, but my AV guy is not authorized Epson (though he'd love to sell me a JVC...)

If via Magnolia - they aren't on the website.

Nothing online (eBay) seems to be authorized.

Thanks.

Edit/solved:

So as not to further clutter the thread with this, and in case I'm not the only one who looked here, but found *no* "where to buy" link - here is a link the very helpful kaotikr1 sent me.


----------



## ndabunka

aaranddeeman said:


> I would like to reiterate again. HDR looks fantastic. Just watched Lucy..
> Just do the following
> - Pick a right movie (e.g. Lucy, X-men Apocalypse)
> - Set the mode to HDR1
> - Watch the movie start to end and don't keep flipping between SDR and HDR
> 
> There are right lumens at right places. E.g. in Lucy when she crosses 80% there us scene where there is full white background and Lucy in foreground in black attire. That white is so freakin bright (even in Cinema mode).
> So yeah. HDR is for me now. I have stopped complaining.
> 
> Stop flipping, Start enjoying... That should be your new year's resolution..


I also just happened to have watch Lucy last night as well. The only thing I do differently is that I bump up the brightness to 60 and the contrast to 54. Leave the Gamma alone at defualt of 0. I can't recall if I have super white on or off but agree with the clean room-type scenes being well represented. However, my "pay attention" scenes were the ones with the wide variety of colors as she went from time period to time period. Stunning!


----------



## AdamAttewell

Smarty-pants said:


> All you need to do is turn brightness down until you can not see the 16 marker on screen.
> Then raise brightness until you see the 16 marker and you are good to go.
> 
> You aren't actually supposed to see anything below 16.
> Just because you can see BTB when using expanded RGB doesn't make it better.
> 
> I also saw some comments when you were claiming to adjust CONTRAST with that pattern.
> The BTB patterns are only for BRIGHTNESS, and the WTW patterns are only for CONTRAST.
> While they can sometimes affect each other, just go back and forth between the patters and make sure they both look correct.
> If you adjust brightness to see 16, then make a large adjustment to contrast, you may have to change brightness by a notch to counter it,
> but not always, but just remember that brightness is used for the dark BTB patterns, and contrast is used for the bright WTW patterns.


I know that you are not supposed to see below 16 but the point of the pattern is to ascertain the correct brightness setting. 

If you can't see levels 16 or below how do you know the brightness control is set correctly?

You can't see the bars flashing to indicate the control is set to high which makes it very hard to set correctly.

I apologise if I incorrectly referred to contrast instead of brightness.


----------



## aaranddeeman

ndabunka said:


> I also just happened to have watch Lucy last night as well. The only thing I do differently is that I bump up the brightness to 60 and the contrast to 54. Leave the Gamma alone at defualt of 0. I can't recall if I have super white on or off but agree with the clean room-type scenes being well represented. However, my "pay attention" scenes were the ones with the wide variety of colors as she went from time period to time period. Stunning!


When it's in HDR mode, it already adds the required contrast. You do not need to bump it.
To test, just bring up the white clipping pattern from AVSHD709 (or any other similar disk), now manually switch between SDR and HDR and you will see.
If you don't have the test disk at hand, just start any bluray movie and try switching between SDR and HDR and you will se the difference.


----------



## Smarty-pants

AdamAttewell said:


> I know that you are not supposed to see below 16 but the point of the pattern is to ascertain the correct brightness setting.
> 
> If you can't see levels 16 or below how do you know the brightness control is set correctly?
> 
> You can't see the bars flashing to indicate the control is set to high which makes it very hard to set correctly.
> 
> I apologise if I incorrectly referred to contrast instead of brightness.


My sincerest apologies. 
It has been so long since I used a numbered pluge pattern, I got the numbers mixed up.
Normally I use a pattern that has 4 bars in the middle and a checkerboard pattern on the sides and no numbers on the screen.
Your goal is to see 18 and above, (NOT 16). It's also ok if you can even see a smidge of 17 fading in, but you don't want to see the
full brightness of 17, however you do want to see the full brightness of 18.
So if you see 17 and 18, you should be able to calibrate with that, now that you know the right numbers.


----------



## ndabunka

aaranddeeman said:


> When it's in HDR mode, it already adds the required contrast. You do not need to bump it.
> To test, just bring up the white clipping pattern from AVSHD709 (or any other similar disk), now manually switch between SDR and HDR and you will see.
> If you don't have the test disk at hand, just start any bluray movie and try switching between SDR and HDR and you will se the difference.


It looks like you are fine with me bumping up the brightness setting but have an issue with me also bumping the contrast. I did this in my HT because (to me) it looks better with just that slight bump. 

I posted in this thread months ago settings that I recommended. Others eventually followed. I was actually the 2nd person to post my settings as I was responding to another who asked what settings others used. Lots of others have also contributed their recommendations so there are lots of people out there with lots of opinions. It doesn't make them any more right or wrong than others. My particular projector & room configuration may well warrant this bump. Others may do better with a reduction in contrast. Individual projectors may well warrant slightly different settings based on the projector itself, the room, etc.

I was simply agreeing that Lucy was good content and mentioned my changes to make it pop. I was not making ANY calibration recommendations. I ws just saying what helps in my case.

Minor correction - my contrast is @ 52 for UHD HDR movies, not 54. As a point of reference, it is at 48 for SDR content


----------



## Smarty-pants

chiltonj said:


> Potentially dumb observation: projector info shows input information. I don't see output information which would be nice to see input 1080p and 4k out with enhancement on. Guess the projector doesn't upconvert the signal per se.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


The projector ALWAYS outputs 1080p.
Remember it is not a true 4K display. It is a native 1080p display and uses eShift to make it look like 4K.
For incoming 4K signals, it converts that to 1080p and then uses eShift to make it look like 4K.
For incoming signals that are less than 1080p, again they will be (up)converted to 1080p.

So when you see what is coming in, that is telling what is being converted to the native (1080p) resolution
of the display, and again the output is always the same according to what settings you have implemented in the settings menu.
Some things can change like color gamut depending on what you send the projector, it will display the best colors sent.
IE: BT.2020 for UHD Blu-ray, BT:709 for HD Blu-ray, and BT.601 for DVD.

It kind of would be nice if there were extended info showing exactly what was being displayed,
but there really wouldn't be too much info there aside from color gamut, color space, and other various settings you have set in the settings menu, and most of those settings are usually set_it_and_forget_it type settings that most people don't change often.


----------



## Stecchino

kanerator said:


> ......
> 
> I had pretty much decided on the Epson 6040, but I am now reading ..... lots of owners complaining about ghosting on 3d (one of the main reasons I wanted to upgrade my projector was to get 3d capable) and the dreaded green dust blobs.


The 3D is great. I am one who was concerned at first but a simple settings change fixed the blurriness. Well made 3D flicks look absolutely amazing on this projector.

Also I'm not aware the dust blobs are super common. But Epson has a great warranty program (fast replacements if ever needed). 





kanerator said:


> ....but UHD HDR could go the way of 3d and SACD as a stepping stone to some new technology rather than a destination. 3d may be superseded by VR just as SACD has been superseded by blu-ray lossless audio and audio formats like Atmos and DTS:X ( if the music industry would wake up and embrace them).



Not to get too far off topic here but people will certainly produce VR movies and other content. But I think your concern is not warranted that VR will somehow replace 3D in cinema. 3D will retain the full support of the studios for as long as people buy tickets to see it. And if they sell tickets they will also sell 3D blu-rays. VR is inherently a single person experience (online multi player gaming notwithstanding) and better suited for gaming, and education. I guess my point is that this is one technology you can take off your list of being worried about going away in a couple of years. (In my opinion)


----------



## aaranddeeman

ndabunka said:


> It looks like you are fine with me bumping up the brightness setting but have an issue with me also bumping the contrast and somehow think what I was doing was related to SDR. It was not. I did this in my HT because (to me) it looks better with just that slight bump.
> 
> I posted in this thread months ago settings that I recommended. Others eventually followed. I was actually the 2nd person to post my settings as I was responding to another who asked what settings others used. Lots of others have also contributed their recommendations so there are lots of people out there with lots of opinions. It doesn't make them any more right or wrong than others. My particular projector & room configuration may well warrant this bump. Others may do better with a reduction in contrast. Individual projectors may well warrant slightly different settings based on the projector itself, the room, etc.
> 
> I was simply agreeing that Lucy was good content and mentioned my changes to make it pop. I was not making ANY calibration recommendations. I ws just saying what helps in my case.
> 
> Minor correction - my contrast is @ 52 for UHD HDR movies, not 54. As a point of reference, it is at 48 for SDR content


I only pointed out that the HDR mode itself adds the additional contrast.
But you got emotional.. 
BTW, for the record, I have no issues what setting you use in your room for SDR or HDR.


----------



## bluer101

Stecchino said:


> The 3D is great. I am one who was concerned at first but a simple settings change fixed the blurriness. Well made 3D flicks look absolutely amazing on this projector.
> 
> Also I'm not aware the dust blobs are super common. But Epson has a great warranty program (fast replacements if ever needed).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to get too far off topic here but people will certainly produce VR movies and other content. But I think your concern is not warranted that VR will somehow replace 3D in cinema. 3D will retain the full support of the studios for as long as people buy tickets to see it. And if they sell tickets they will also sell 3D blu-rays. VR is inherently a single person experience (online multi player gaming notwithstanding) and better suited for gaming, and education. I guess my point is that this is one technology you can take off your list of being worried about going away in a couple of years. (In my opinion)


Can you post those 3D settings?


----------



## Stecchino

bluer101 said:


> Can you post those 3D settings?



Not sure how to link to a specific post on the mobile app but just search this thread for the query "3D Brightness". See my post from 12/6/2016 where I respond to and confirm some of Caveman2000's findings.


----------



## achanonier

aaranddeeman said:


> When it's in HDR mode, it already adds the required contrast. You do not need to bump it.
> To test, just bring up the white clipping pattern from AVSHD709 (or any other similar disk), now manually switch between SDR and HDR and you will see.
> If you don't have the test disk at hand, just start any bluray movie and try switching between SDR and HDR and you will se the difference.




Hi there !

I've also been tweaking and playing a all lot of HDR movie and I also start enjoying it !

But here is my point of view which is quite different : 

1 - It needs to work in *eco mode* : because this one is dead silent and I want my PJ to be dead silent
2 - It need to *work with all HDR movies* not only bright ones (yes Lucy or Xmen or Kingsmen... ) but also darker ones : The Revanant, Batman V Superman...
3 - I *hate having clipped whites* and you get a lot of them with HDR 1 mode - just look at some skies in deadpool or the chapter two of Pacific Rim when they build the wall, the skies are clipped

What I wanted to achieve :
- get an *average brightness level *a little under the one I get with the Panasonic HDR --> SDR conversion
- get enough *headroom to get a good HDR effect*.
- have a good *lisibility in dark areas*
- have enough punch to say : whaouh and not think about the SDR version anymore

My setings : 

Mode *Natural*
*HDR 1*
Epson *super white ON* : that avoid the white clipping inherent to HDR 1
Contrast 50
Brightness 50
Color 55 (to compensate custom gamma curve)
*Eco mode*
Iris 0
Auto Iris Normal
*Custom Gamma Curve* : that's what bringing the magic back to me. Gamma + 2 was bringing brightness but to the expense of greyed blacks and dull image. So I made a custom gamma curve that keeps a good contrast ratio, great low light visibility and global image punch.
*I d'ont have a picture of the final gamma curve but it looks like this : I just lowered the values 3 steps down from this image for my final setting.(exept first and last one that remain default)*


It may look extreme I d'ont know what the axis value is but this is actually not brighter than Gamma +2 it has the same mid range punch but without the hight black levels of gamma +2 (the graph seems to use another scale...)

It was great for the movies I've whatched so far (Star Treck, Star Trek into Darkness, Deadpool, Pacific Rim, Kingsmen, Batman V superman, The Revenant and Mad Max Fury Road).

I've automated the HDR mode change and memory bank change with my Harmony Remote, I have a specific HDR Movie activity, so there is no hassle any more doing all this.


----------



## rjguk

Smarty-pants said:


> For incoming 4K signals, it converts that to 1080p and then uses eShift to make it look like 4K.


I believe it isn't quite that simple, so how about a minor modification:

For incoming 4k signals, it creates two slightly different overlapping 1080p sub-frames from each frame and then uses 4k enhancement and persistence of vision to make the final human-observed image look more like 4k.
For non-4k signals it can upscale and apply the above processing if 4k enhancement is ON.

With a 4k input I don't think you can turn 4k enhancement OFF, it has to do it to handle a 4k input. If it was simply downscaling to 1080p first I would have expected the 4k enhancement to be optional.


----------



## kanerator

Stecchino said:


> The 3D is great. I am one who was concerned at first but a simple settings change fixed the blurriness. Well made 3D flicks look absolutely amazing on this projector.
> 
> Also I'm not aware the dust blobs are super common. But Epson has a great warranty program (fast replacements if ever needed).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to get too far off topic here but people will certainly produce VR movies and other content. But I think your concern is not warranted that VR will somehow replace 3D in cinema. 3D will retain the full support of the studios for as long as people buy tickets to see it. And if they sell tickets they will also sell 3D blu-rays. VR is inherently a single person experience (online multi player gaming notwithstanding) and better suited for gaming, and education. I guess my point is that this is one technology you can take off your list of being worried about going away in a couple of years. (In my opinion)


Thanks, Stecchino.


----------



## aaranddeeman

achanonier said:


> 1 - It needs to work in *eco mode* : because this one is dead silent and I want my PJ to be dead silent


I use only Eco mode in HDR or SDR



> 2 - It need to *work with all HDR movies* not only bright ones (yes Lucy or Xmen or Kingsmen... ) but also darker ones : The Revanant, Batman V Superman...


I will check those movies out at some point. I guess we can add "The Martian" in it as well.



> 3 - I *hate having clipped whites* and you get a lot of them with HDR 1 mode - just look at some skies in deadpool or the chapter two of Pacific Rim when they build the wall, the skies are clipped


Good point. I never really looked for the clipping while watching.




> My setings :
> 
> *HDR 1*
> Epson *super white ON* : that avoid the white clipping inherent to HDR 1
> Contrast 50
> Brightness 50
> Color 55 (to compensate custom gamma curve)
> *Eco mode*
> Iris 0
> Auto Iris Normal
> *Custom Gamma Curve* : that's what bringing the magic back to me. Gamma + 2 was bringing brightness but to the expense of greyed blacks and dull image. So I made a custom gamma curve that keeps a good contrast ratio, great low light visibility and global image punch.
> *I d'ont have a picture of the final gamma curve but it looks like this : I just lowered the values 3 steps down from this image for my final setting.(exept first and last one that remain default)*


That Gamma looks almost extreme. I would say w/o measurements it would be hard.
I am waiting for @mascior (Ryan's) HDR10 patterns to be available as .iso to be burned. Once they are available, I will be able to measure and arrive at better settings.


----------



## covsound1

aaranddeeman said:


> I use only Eco mode in HDR or SDR
> 
> 
> I will check those movies out at some point. I guess we can add "The Martian" in it as well.
> 
> 
> Good point. I never really looked for the clipping while watching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That Gamma looks almost extreme. I would say w/o measurements it would be hard.
> I am waiting for @mascior (Ryan's) HDR10 patterns to be available as .iso to be burned. Once they are available, I will be able to measure and arrive at better settings.


like the fact you are the first to post an attempt. this is what i have talked about when i said epson will allow a custom gamma just like what comes fixed in the jvc. your setting look over the top but i will give them a shot and take a look. mine are less extreme as i dont go pass 4+ in the mid range but i drop low level to 2- and i dont touch high level. this gives me a mid range punch with deep blacks and some clipped whites. if i want to see detail in white i just turn on super white. i too also like eco mode and have no need for the others. had to put down the phillips player for the panny the other day because it allows adjustments to get that last bit of control.also the dynamic control puts it in a class by it self. i will post some of my setting later.i have calman but just need more time with it to learn the in and outs of hdr and sdr 2020.on some movies i can get a picture looks 3d like depth .


----------



## ndabunka

achanonier said:


> Hi there !
> 
> I've also been tweaking and playing a all lot of HDR movie and I also start enjoying it !
> 
> My setings :
> *HDR 1*
> Epson *super white ON* : that avoid the white clipping inherent to HDR 1
> Contrast 50
> Brightness 50
> Color 55 (to compensate custom gamma curve)
> *Eco mode*
> Iris 0
> Auto Iris Normal
> *Custom Gamma Curve* : that's what bringing the magic back to me. Gamma + 2 was bringing brightness but to the expense of greyed blacks and dull image. So I made a custom gamma curve that keeps a good contrast ratio, great low light visibility and global image punch.
> *I d'ont have a picture of the final gamma curve but it looks like this : I just lowered the values 3 steps down from this image for my final setting.(exept first and last one that remain default)*


Thanks for your details. 

I also run almost exclusively in ECO mode but will change to Medium mode for the darker UHD disks

I did go back to investigate if I had super white on or off and I can now confirm that I also have it turned ON. Turning Super White off does raise the brightness level but as you mentioned, it also crushes the whites and it looks like you and I have discovered.

I have a higher brighteness with a Gamma left at zero. Thanks for your custom gamma curve. I will experiment with mine to better understand if replicating something like yours will benefit my set up.


----------



## swyda038

Quick Question.

Can you remove the feet from the epson 5040 ub? I am close to buying the projector but only have 7.5" in height for the space where the projector is going. The dimensions listed on epson website is 7.6" with the feet and 6.7" without.

Thanks!


----------



## seplant

achanonier said:


> It needs to work in *eco mode* : because this one is dead silent and I want my PJ to be dead silent



Hey, if you don't like the noise, just build a hush box!


----------



## JackOften

Smarty-pants said:


> ...*For incoming 4K signals, it converts that to 1080p and then uses eShift to make it look like 4K.*
> For incoming signals that are less than 1080p, again they will be (up)converted to 1080p.
> 
> So when you see what is coming in, that is telling what is being converted to the native (1080p) resolution
> of the display, and again the output is always the same according to what settings you have implemented in the settings menu.
> Some things can change like color gamut depending on what you send the projector, it will display the best colors sent.
> IE: BT.2020 for UHD Blu-ray, BT:709 for HD Blu-ray, and BT.601 for DVD.


Ok, this got my attention. I'm about to upgrade to the 5040ub, and I'm running older equipment in between my 4k sources and the projector (non-4k/1.4 HDMI receiver, HDbaseT extender). 

Are you saying aside from the color gamut, I wouldn't benefit from upgrading my equipment to HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2 for my 4k picture since the 5040ub down converts a 4k signal anyways? It doesn't use the 4k/extra pixel information?

I don't want to upgrade a perfectly good receiver if possible. I know the color gamut change isn't a superficial upgrade, but if I can keep the old receiver/HDbaseT extender... well, that buys me a captivator 1400! haha.

Thanks


----------



## Smarty-pants

JackOften said:


> Ok, this got my attention. I'm about to upgrade to the 5040ub, and I'm running older equipment in between my 4k sources and the projector (non-4k/1.4 HDMI receiver, HDbaseT extender).
> 
> Are you saying aside from the color gamut, I wouldn't benefit from upgrading my equipment to HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2 for my 4k picture since the 5040ub down converts a 4k signal anyways? It doesn't use the 4k/extra pixel information?
> 
> I don't want to upgrade a perfectly good receiver if possible. I know the color gamut change isn't a superficial upgrade, but if I can keep the old receiver/HDbaseT extender... well, that buys me a captivator 1400! haha.
> 
> Thanks


There is no specific answer as to yes or no. It is very dependent on your specific equipment, what the content is,
how the feed is coming in, etc...
For the most part, when it comes to something like UHD Blu-ray, you have 3 significant differences from standard Blu-ray...
The resolution, the color gamut, and HDR. IMO the resolution is the least significant change.
You probably won't see much difference (if any) when downconverting 4K to 2K while retaining the other two,
or even when dropping HDR as well. The WCG is the best part of it IMO.
If you want my advice on your situation, I would say to get the 5040 first, try it with your current gear and see what it's like.
Remember most UHD players also offer 2 HDMI outputs so you can send audio direct to your legacy gear,
and then send the video directly to your display.
However this is also where your "other 4K sources" come into play and how you also get those to the display.
Again I would say just try the projector first and then go from there if you aren't in a big hurry.
4K/UHD is still VERY MUCH A WORK IN PROGRESS no matter what source or device or stream you are using,
so again IMO, taking your time isn't a bad thing.


----------



## JackOften

Smarty-pants said:


> ...There is no specific answer as to yes or no. ...


Thanks for the quick reply!

I'm making this upgrade from a 3020 to a 5040ub almost exclusively for 4k gaming (better lag, better blacks, better throw for a smaller gaming screen) though I do a ton of movie watching where the 3020 is acceptable as is. I have a regular Blu-ray player, Roku premiere, DirecTV and ShieldTV. If the WCG is *the* most important upgrade in terms of picture quality it may be worthy of upgrading the middlemen anyways. I don't want to have to ask my wife for money to upgrade twice, thus the 'let me resolve this now' attitude. 

Appreciate the info. Anything you have to add would be helpful. I'm sitting 10' from a 120" screen.

Thanks!


----------



## subliminac

How is everyone finding the image uniformity on this projector? Is it really much improved over previous UB models? Every LCD or LCoS projector I have owned has shown color tinting in portions of a white or near white image, to varying degrees. I'm thinking of purchasing a 5040UB but since I watch a lot of black and white movies image uniformity is very important to me. I would love to go with DLP for this reason alone but am far too sensitive to RBE for it to be a solution.

I have also noticed this model has a Color Uniformity adjustment feature. Has anyone felt the need to use this and if so what were the results? Is this something that could help with tinting issues or is it more for general brightness uniformity?


----------



## exm

JackOften said:


> Thanks for the quick reply!
> 
> I'm making this upgrade from a 3020 to a 5040ub almost exclusively for 4k gaming (better lag, better blacks, better throw for a smaller gaming screen) though I do a ton of movie watching where the 3020 is acceptable as is. I have a regular Blu-ray player, Roku premiere, DirecTV and ShieldTV. If the WCG is *the* most important upgrade in terms of picture quality it may be worthy of upgrading the middlemen anyways. I don't want to have to ask my wife for money to upgrade twice, thus the 'let me resolve this now' attitude.
> 
> Appreciate the info. Anything you have to add would be helpful. I'm sitting 10' from a 120" screen.
> 
> Thanks!


I upgraded from the 3020 to the 6040ub. You won't believe your eyes, especially while watching a movie.


----------



## aaranddeeman

subliminac said:


> I have also noticed this model has a Color Uniformity adjustment feature. Has anyone felt the need to use this and if so what were the results? Is this something that could help with tinting issues or is it more for general brightness uniformity?


I am not sure how useful that feature would be, because it is not color mode specific nor can be saved in the memory. Once you set it, it applies to all modes. Now that will help one (or more) but may as well hurt other modes.


----------



## Rob Simkow

seplant said:


> Hey, if you don't like the noise, just build a hush box!



That cannot be good for picture quality.


----------



## bigabit

rjguk said:


> I believe it isn't quite that simple, so how about a minor modification:
> 
> For incoming 4k signals, it creates two slightly different overlapping 1080p sub-frames from each frame and then uses 4k enhancement and persistence of vision to make the final human-observed image look more like 4k.
> For non-4k signals it can upscale and apply the above processing if 4k enhancement is ON.
> 
> With a 4k input I don't think you can turn 4k enhancement OFF, it has to do it to handle a 4k input. If it was simply downscaling to 1080p first I would have expected the 4k enhancement to be optional.


This is incorrect. I confirmed this with Epson support.

All 4k content is downscaled to 1080p and then 4k enhancement is applied the same way as it would have been if the signal had already been 1080p. None of the additional 4k data is used to create the extra pixels, only the resulting downscaled image. The projector does not upscale anything to 4k.

I do agree that it is odd that you cannot disable 4k enhancement when the signal is 4k, which is why I enquired with support.

I have been experimenting with downscaling UHD discs to 1080p but retaining 2020 and HDR. I have been unable to discern any difference.


----------



## achanonier

seplant said:


> Hey, if you don't like the noise, just build a hush box!


What about the cooling in your setup ?

Here is mine but if I close the front all the heat will stay inside...
By the way the box is full lenght


----------



## rjguk

bigabit said:


> This is incorrect. I confirmed this with Epson support.
> 
> All 4k content is downscaled to 1080p and then 4k enhancement is applied the same way as it would have been if the signal had already been 1080p. None of the additional 4k data is used to create the extra pixels, only the resulting downscaled image. The projector does not upscale anything to 4k.
> 
> I do agree that it is odd that you cannot disable 4k enhancement when the signal is 4k, which is why I enquired with support.
> 
> I have been experimenting with downscaling UHD discs to 1080p but retaining 2020 and HDR. I have been unable to discern any difference.


Disappointing - it seems like a wasted opportunity.
My UHD source (AFTV4K for Amazon and Netflix) is reduced to 8-bit 4.2.0 for unknown handshaking reasons, my potential UHD source (SkyQ satellite box) is locked to 2160/50p so would also end up as 8-bit due to bandwidth. So the only benefit from UHD from those sources is the resolution, and that's downscaled.

I get no WCG or HDR from those sources so no advantage there.

Edited to add - it seems my understanding of Epson's processing was based on the assumption that it was like JVC's e-Shift. That does subsample a UHD frame to produce the pair of offset 1080 frames.


----------



## achanonier

rjguk said:


> Disappointing - it seems like a wasted opportunity.
> My UHD source (AFTV4K for Amazon and Netflix) is reduced to 8-bit 4.2.0 for unknown handshaking reasons, my potential UHD source (SkyQ satellite box) is locked to 2160/50p so would also end up as 8-bit due to bandwidth. So the only benefit from UHD from those sources is the resolution, and that's downscaled.
> 
> I get no WCG or HDR from those sources so no advantage there.
> 
> Edited to add - it seems my understanding of Epson's processing was based on the assumption that it was like JVC's e-Shift. That does subsample a UHD frame to produce the pair of offset 1080 frames.


And I'm sure that's what it does actually!
Either the guys from support don't know what they're talking about or they just meant that at the end yes te PJ displays a 1080p frame so yes it downscales but why would the two 1080p picture be the same ?

Maybe be its hard to see on a movie but I can assure you with PS4 pro that the menus, texts ans so on are much more detailled in 4k than in 1080p with 4k enhancement ON.


----------



## achanonier

Here are some 4k HDR shots with my custom gamma curve.
The Smartphone pciture don't do justice to the real image but it can give an idea !


----------



## seplant

achanonier said:


> What about the cooling in your setup ?
> 
> Here is mine but if I close the front all the heat will stay inside...
> By the way the box is full lenght


I'm really just experimenting. The top and back are completely open except for three pieces of dense foam that are resting on the projector. There is 3.5" of clearance to the ceiling and 2" on each side of the projector. During operation, the outlet side (right side looking from the front) is warm, but the inlet side stays cool.

No discernible impact on picture quality.


----------



## Dave Harper

bigabit said:


> This is incorrect. I confirmed this with Epson support.
> 
> 
> 
> All 4k content is downscaled to 1080p and then 4k enhancement is applied the same way as it would have been if the signal had already been 1080p. None of the additional 4k data is used to create the extra pixels, only the resulting downscaled image. The projector does not upscale anything to 4k.
> 
> 
> 
> I do agree that it is odd that you cannot disable 4k enhancement when the signal is 4k, which is why I enquired with support.
> 
> 
> 
> I have been experimenting with downscaling UHD discs to 1080p but retaining 2020 and HDR. I have been unable to discern any difference.



If this is true, it removes it from my list of possible choices for me. It would certainly explain the easily seen detail differences I saw between the 5040 and the Sony VW350ES. Very sad. 

Does anyone know if the laser models like the LS10500 do this as well?


----------



## Glenn Rubin

achanonier said:


> Here are some 4k HDR shots with my custom gamma curve.
> The Smartphone pciture don't do justice to the real image but it can give an idea !


achanonier, can you tell me what devices you're using and all the calibration settings on your projector? I want to try and replicate this, it looks tremendous!


----------



## achanonier

Glenn Rubin said:


> achanonier, can you tell me what devices you're using and all the calibration settings on your projector? I want to try and replicate this, it looks tremendous!



Hi Glenn

Thx for your comment, I'm very happy with the picture I get !

This is my Panasonic UB700 direct to the Epson TW9300 (6040 here).
The settings are posted a few posts above on the previous page !


----------



## shin_iori

achanonier said:


> Hi Glenn
> 
> Thx for your comment, I'm very happy with the picture I get !
> 
> This is my Panasonic UB700 direct to the Epson TW9300 (6040 here).
> The settings are posted a few posts above on the previous page !



hi

very impressive pictures.
can you post a picture of your final Gamma curve please ?

best regard


----------



## chiltonj

bigabit said:


> This is incorrect. I confirmed this with Epson support.
> 
> All 4k content is downscaled to 1080p and then 4k enhancement is applied the same way as it would have been if the signal had already been 1080p. None of the additional 4k data is used to create the extra pixels, only the resulting downscaled image. The projector does not upscale anything to 4k.
> 
> I do agree that it is odd that you cannot disable 4k enhancement when the signal is 4k, which is why I enquired with support.
> 
> I have been experimenting with downscaling UHD discs to 1080p but retaining 2020 and HDR. I have been unable to discern any difference.


Interesting. I was curious about viewing output information because my AVR processes/upscales content to 4K. So, I see 4K as the input into the Epson. 
With this comment, the Epson takes an up converted signal and then down scales and then enhances to 4K? I'll have to check tonight to see if 4K enhancement is on when I upscale via AVR. 
For now, I'm passing the original signal through my AVR and letting Epson do whatever it does. Not sure if that's the right approach but the PQ looks the same to me either way from the AVR (processing or direct). 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

bigabit said:


> This is incorrect. I confirmed this with Epson support.
> 
> 
> 
> All 4k content is downscaled to 1080p and then 4k enhancement is applied the same way as it would have been if the signal had already been 1080p. None of the additional 4k data is used to create the extra pixels, only the resulting downscaled image. The projector does not upscale anything to 4k.
> 
> 
> 
> I do agree that it is odd that you cannot disable 4k enhancement when the signal is 4k, which is why I enquired with support.
> 
> 
> 
> I have been experimenting with downscaling UHD discs to 1080p but retaining 2020 and HDR. I have been unable to discern any difference.




This is absolutely and categorically INCORRECT information from Epson Support. I assure you 4K content is sampled into 2 distinct 1080p images per frame, and displayed offset from each other to give you double amount of pixels. Each of the 2 images contain different information effectively giving you twice the image information compared to 1080p. (Although not 4 times as true 4K would). 

Your support contact was misinformed. 

Recently I posted extensive analysis with screenshots comparing Lucy 1080p with eShift vs Lucy UHD with eShift. The difference was noticeable and commensurate with a double resolution enhancement. No doubt about this. Screenshots were done with closeup shots of details. It was unarguable. 

Hope this helps.


----------



## rjguk

Thank you gnolivos, faith being restored after that little setback


----------



## achanonier

shin_iori said:


> hi
> 
> very impressive pictures.
> can you post a picture of your final Gamma curve please ?
> 
> best regard


Sure I will take a picture tonight !


----------



## shin_iori

achanonier said:


> Sure I will take a picture tonight !


Thanks a lot.

have you make an special Setup for PS4 PRO HDR game ? ( xbox ons S to )


----------



## dholmes54

Are these settings everyone is giving for 4k blu-rays or std,or does it matter.


----------



## achanonier

dholmes54 said:


> Are these settings everyone is giving for 4k blu-rays or std,or does it matter.


These are for HDR content only!


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs,I'm staying with std blu-rays for now uhd later this yr.


----------



## nielvm

bigabit said:


> This is incorrect. I confirmed this with Epson support.
> 
> All 4k content is downscaled to 1080p and then 4k enhancement is applied the same way as it would have been if the signal had already been 1080p. None of the additional 4k data is used to create the extra pixels, only the resulting downscaled image. The projector does not upscale anything to 4k.
> 
> I do agree that it is odd that you cannot disable 4k enhancement when the signal is 4k, which is why I enquired with support.
> 
> I have been experimenting with downscaling UHD discs to 1080p but retaining 2020 and HDR. I have been unable to discern any difference.


I do believe there is some difference. The 4k enhancement is significally more quiet when feeding a 4k signal. When feeding a 1080p signal, the projector produces an annoying noise imo. 

Don't know if there is a difference in image quality, but I think it does something different with 4k and 1080p.


----------



## swyda038

achanonier said:


> What about the cooling in your setup ?
> 
> Here is mine but if I close the front all the heat will stay inside...
> By the way the box is full lenght


I will have a very similar setup with the front being completely open (as you have it) as well as the backside. Quick question, with the front being open, is this enough to cool the projector even if the top and bottom are very tight, or do you need a minimum space around the entire projector? Also, do you know if the feet can come off of the projector? I may need to remove the feet to gain more clearance around mine once I receive it.
Thanks!


----------



## sddp

For those who are using the 5040UBE wireless:


I have been scratching my head around this one for a few weeks.
I have the 5040UBE and using the wireless HDMI and have a 9.2 surround system. Ever since I connected and started using the wireless hdmi I hear a very high pitched whining sound coming out of all of my speakers. I have done dozens of test to figure out what is causing it.
For example when I turn on the unit and the Sony PS4 and once they connect, I start hearing the sound. When I log in to my account on PS4 the high pitch goes away momentarily while the screen is blank then when PS4 menu comes up the high pitch comes back. When I choose a game to play (Star Wars Battlefront) and PS4 goes black/blank while it's loading the pitch goes away and once the game loads the high pitch comes back. This happens when watching anything (Cable, XOBX, tv, movies, etc.). It is EXTREMELY annoying and is giving me a headache (being that I am running 9 Klipsch speakers, the subs don't get the sound, at least I haven't gone close enough to the them to notice).

All components are connected to a monster 2500 power center. I tried plugging the wireless transmitter to a different outlet on an adjacent wall and still have the same issue once the wireless hdmi reconnects.
The only temporary way I was able to solve this was to use a ground lift since its a 3-prong and that took the noise away. But not sure if that a good longer term solution. I know someone else has to have this issue.


Any technical experts have any idea what's causing this and the best way to address it?


----------



## brianlvi3

sddp said:


> For those who are using the 5040UBE wireless:
> 
> 
> I have been scratching my head around this one for a few weeks.
> I have the 5040UBE and using the wireless HDMI and have a 9.2 surround system. Ever since I connected and started using the wireless hdmi I hear a very high pitched whining sound coming out of all of my speakers. I have done dozens of test to figure out what is causing it.
> For example when I turn on the unit and the Sony PS4 and once they connect, I start hearing the sound. When I log in to my account on PS4 the high pitch goes away momentarily while the screen is blank then when PS4 menu comes up the high pitch comes back. When I choose a game to play (Star Wars Battlefront) and PS4 goes black/blank while it's loading the pitch goes away and once the game loads the high pitch comes back. This happens when watching anything (Cable, XOBX, tv, movies, etc.). It is EXTREMELY annoying and is giving me a headache (being that I am running 9 Klipsch speakers, the subs don't get the sound, at least I haven't gone close enough to the them to notice).
> 
> All components are connected to a monster 2500 power center. I tried plugging the wireless transmitter to a different outlet on an adjacent wall and still have the same issue once the wireless hdmi reconnects.
> The only temporary way I was able to solve this was to use a ground lift since its a 3-prong and that took the noise away. But not sure if that a good longer term solution. I know someone else has to have this issue.
> 
> 
> Any technical experts have any idea what's causing this and the best way to address it?


I also have the same issue. I connected the wireless transmitter directly in a straight line about 10 feet away and down about 6 feet. It is plugged into my Panamax. All I hear is a high pitch. It changes a bit if I start moving it around. I have not had a chance to play with it yet. 

I ordered a 35 foot Celerity HDMI cable coming today. For now I have been running an Audioquest 8 meter HDMI cable with mostly good results. A drop out on UHD movie after an hour.

I can not live with any type of feedback/high pitch like what I experienced. Not sure what is causing it as i have a dedicated circuit to my home theater and no ground loop problems.


----------



## SALadder22FF

I am having an issue also with the Ube wireless. My ROKU 4 when trying to play Youtube videos will lose the signal for about 3 seconds while loading the video and then pick it back up. It did this while watching a video on VUDU and has done it with Netflix as well. DirecTV through the Xbox One has never dropped signal once. 

Does anyone know what this might be? I am thinking about returning the ROKU, but I don't know what would cause it to lose signal like that every time a video loads.

Anyone with knowledge of this I would really appreciate your help. Thank you


----------



## sddp

brianlvi3 said:


> I also have the same issue. I connected the wireless transmitter directly in a straight line about 10 feet away and down about 6 feet. It is plugged into my Panamax. All I hear is a high pitch. It changes a bit if I start moving it around. I have not had a chance to play with it yet.
> 
> I ordered a 35 foot Celerity HDMI cable coming today. For now I have been running an Audioquest 8 meter HDMI cable with mostly good results. A drop out on UHD movie after an hour.
> 
> I can not live with any type of feedback/high pitch like what I experienced. Not sure what is causing it as i have a dedicated circuit to my home theater and no ground loop problems.





So I am not alone, I have also noticed moving the power to the wireless does affect the high pitch, very odd.


----------



## Mike Johnson 3

SALadder22FF said:


> I am having an issue also with the Ube wireless. My ROKU 4 when trying to play Youtube videos will lose the signal for about 3 seconds while loading the video and then pick it back up. It did this while watching a video on VUDU and has done it with Netflix as well. DirecTV through the Xbox One has never dropped signal once.
> 
> Does anyone know what this might be? I am thinking about returning the ROKU, but I don't know what would cause it to lose signal like that every time a video loads.
> 
> Anyone with knowledge of this I would really appreciate your help. Thank you


My 5040ube just arrived this afternoon and the Roku Ultra is the very first thing I plugged into the wireless hub. I didn't have any dropouts like you mentioned with either Netflix or VUDU so far. Do you have access to another Roku to see if that's the problem?

(the only 3 seconds of blank screen I got was when switching between 4K and 1080p content)


----------



## brianlvi3

sddp said:


> So I am not alone, I have also noticed moving the power to the wireless does affect the high pitch, very odd.


Another issue with the wireless is my Optimum TV box will not work at all. No picture. I have a picture with Oppo, Xbox, PS4 but nothing with my cable box.

These are reasons now for me trying a very expensive cable. Fingers crossed.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Mike Johnson 3 said:


> My 5040ube just arrived this afternoon and the Roku Ultra is the very first thing I plugged into the wireless hub. I didn't have any dropouts like you mentioned with either Netflix or VUDU so far. Do you have access to another Roku to see if that's the problem?
> 
> (the only 3 seconds of blank screen I got was when switching between 4K and 1080p content)


That makes me think it's my unit. I just switched out the hdmi cable and still dropping signal. I am returning to best buy in a few hours to try another unit. Thank you for your input


----------



## Dave Harper

gnolivos said:


> This is absolutely and categorically INCORRECT information from Epson Support. I assure you 4K content is sampled into 2 distinct 1080p images per frame, and displayed offset from each other to give you double amount of pixels. Each of the 2 images contain different information effectively giving you twice the image information compared to 1080p. (Although not 4 times as true 4K would).
> 
> Your support contact was misinformed.
> 
> Recently I posted extensive analysis with screenshots comparing Lucy 1080p with eShift vs Lucy UHD with eShift. The difference was noticeable and commensurate with a double resolution enhancement. No doubt about this. Screenshots were done with closeup shots of details. It was unarguable.
> 
> Hope this helps.



I recall seeing some postings about a test pattern to confirm this. It was probably in the JVC threads somewhere. I'll have to try to find it again.


----------



## john barlow

gnolivos said:


> This is absolutely and categorically INCORRECT information from Epson Support. I assure you 4K content is sampled into 2 distinct 1080p images per frame, and displayed offset from each other to give you double amount of pixels. Each of the 2 images contain different information effectively giving you twice the image information compared to 1080p. (Although not 4 times as true 4K would).
> 
> Your support contact was misinformed.
> 
> Recently I posted extensive analysis with screenshots comparing Lucy 1080p with eShift vs Lucy UHD with eShift. The difference was noticeable and commensurate with a double resolution enhancement. No doubt about this. Screenshots were done with closeup shots of details. It was unarguable.
> 
> Hope this helps.


I've had the Epson 5040 for a month and up until yesterday had not had the opportunity to play a UHD disc. The Oppo 203 arrived at my doorstep 30 hours ago and I am blown away by the 4k emulation. This is a whole new ballgame for us and I would have to surmise the 800 gorilla is HDCP issues and the general disgust it is causing people in our hobby that are just trying to get the best picture possible. It's like jumping through flaming hoops and not getting burned. Not easy to do. I do however realize that a year from now, most issues will be ironed out and I will still be in love with my fauxk system. And now ladies and gentlemen, it's back to the next UHD movie. I'm happy with Oppo and Epson. Believe me I know that this industry is in distress do to HDCP issues and I recommend all players, take a deep breath, learn patience, Yoga and sooner or later your system will be firing on all cylinders. I have no connection to any manufacturer but, I am a fan of both Epson and Oppo for their noted dedication to customer service. That's why I'm not having a breakdown over issues. We'll get this figured out and start enjoying our hobby again, rather than spending all our viewer time in the HD forums. Cheers!


----------



## SALadder22FF

New ROKU 4 did the same thing. drops the signal on youtube as it's loading the video for a few seconds. so frustrating


----------



## Oledurt

Glenn Rubin said:


> achanonier, can you tell me what devices you're using and all the calibration settings on your projector? I want to try and replicate this, it looks tremendous!




not to rain on anyones parade, but messing with the gamma in this way may look good for some scenes but overall may not be the best.

Really Epson should provide a separate contrast setting for HDR. 

That being said it is your projector do what you want.

I find that HDR looks great on this projector and is hands down better than SDR.

I run in bright cinema mode, HDR 1, and I set Epson Super White to on

I than use my Disney Wow Blu ray to set brightness, contrast, and color saturation.

my gamma is set to -1. I find this combination is not overly dark even in dark movies like suicide squad.

The picture I get with HDR, although not as good...Is in the same ball park as my LG OLED.

For a projected image on a 125 inch cinemascope screen I find the picture to be stunning.

To me it is not enough of an improvement to spend $7000 more to get a native 4k projector.

I am very happy with this projector.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bigabit

gnolivos said:


> This is absolutely and categorically INCORRECT information from Epson Support. I assure you 4K content is sampled into 2 distinct 1080p images per frame, and displayed offset from each other to give you double amount of pixels. Each of the 2 images contain different information effectively giving you twice the image information compared to 1080p. (Although not 4 times as true 4K would).
> 
> Your support contact was misinformed.
> 
> Recently I posted extensive analysis with screenshots comparing Lucy 1080p with eShift vs Lucy UHD with eShift. The difference was noticeable and commensurate with a double resolution enhancement. No doubt about this. Screenshots were done with closeup shots of details. It was unarguable.
> 
> Hope this helps.


I would love to see these pics but can't find them. Do you mind reposting a link? I don't care if it scales it down to 480p if the end result is it looks better.

For what it's worth this is the quote from Epson support:

"Regarding the 4K enhance, the optical engine & video processor does filter out the 4k signal/resolution and only allows the 1080p signal to passthrough, then uses it's processor to apply the pixel shift for the 4k enhancement."


----------



## bigabit

nielvm said:


> I do believe there is some difference. The 4k enhancement is significally more quiet when feeding a 4k signal. When feeding a 1080p signal, the projector produces an annoying noise imo.
> 
> Don't know if there is a difference in image quality, but I think it does something different with 4k and 1080p.


Interesting, I had not noticed that. While the annoying noise at 1080p is disconcerting, glad to hear there must be some difference.

I had gone back to just feeding all sources at their native resolution, but maybe I will try upscaling to 4K at the player again.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave Harper said:


> I recall seeing some postings about a test pattern to confirm this. It was probably in the JVC threads somewhere. I'll have to try to find it again.


JVC thread? of course...


----------



## Dave Harper

bigabit said:


> I would love to see these pics but can't find them. Do you mind reposting a link? I don't care if it scales it down to 480p if the end result is it looks better.
> 
> 
> 
> For what it's worth this is the quote from Epson support:
> 
> 
> 
> "Regarding the 4K enhance, the optical engine & video processor does filter out the 4k signal/resolution and only allows the 1080p signal to passthrough, then uses it's processor to apply the pixel shift for the 4k enhancement."



That quote could still mean that it breaks out the 4K signal into two separate 1080p frames to be run through the projector's processing. It doesn't specifically say that it down-converts 4K to 1080p, throwing away pixel info. 

Of course, if it was made by Comcast it certainly would down-convert it so they could throw more useless features into the machine.


----------



## SALadder22FF

If anyone is having the same issue as me I fixed it by changing the setting in the ROKU. It allowed me to set it up as 4K UHD HDR, but the picture would drop out when I loaded youtube videos. I changed it to 4K UHD and now no problem at all. I don't really use the HDR so I dont see any problem here.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Oledurt said:


> not to rain on anyones parade, but messing with the gamma in this way may look good for some scenes but overall may not be the best.
> 
> Really Epson should provide a separate contrast setting for HDR.
> 
> That being said it is your projector do what you want.
> 
> I find that HDR looks great on this projector and is hands down better than SDR.
> 
> I run in bright cinema mode, HDR 1, and I set Epson Super White to on
> 
> I than use my Disney Wow Blu ray to set brightness, contrast, and color saturation.
> 
> my gamma is set to -1. I find this combination is not overly dark even in dark movies like suicide squad.
> 
> The picture I get with HDR, although not as good...Is in the same ball park as my LG OLED.
> 
> For a projected image on a 125 inch cinemascope screen I find the picture to be stunning.
> 
> To me it is not enough of an improvement to spend $7000 more to get a native 4k projector.
> 
> I am very happy with this projector.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


QUESTION: Since the HDR/SDR setting can not be assigned to different picture/color/memory modes, are you saying that you put the pj on HDR-1 and then calibrate everything for 4K / HDR / 1080p / SDR / etc... all with the HDR-1 mode intact 24/7?
I never thought about doing that, but I wonder if it screws up SDR content.


----------



## ac388

dholmes54 said:


> Are these settings everyone is giving for 4k blu-rays or std,or does it matter.


Do u mind to tell me which post# has that UHD settings ? Thanks in advance.


----------



## nielvm

Oledurt said:


> I find that HDR looks great on this projector and is hands down better than SDR.
> 
> I run in bright cinema mode, HDR 1, and I set Epson Super White to on
> 
> I than use my Disney Wow Blu ray to set brightness, contrast, and color saturation.
> 
> my gamma is set to -1. I find this combination is not overly dark even in dark movies like suicide squad.
> 
> The picture I get with HDR, although not as good...Is in the same ball park as my LG OLED.
> 
> For a projected image on a 125 inch cinemascope screen I find the picture to be stunning.
> 
> To me it is not enough of an improvement to spend $7000 more to get a native 4k projector.
> 
> I am very happy with this projector.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Actually, the only correct color modes for hdr content are cinema or digital cinema. These modes use a color filter to allow for a wider color gamut. Using other modes will definitly be brighter, but at the cost of color.


----------



## achanonier

Smarty-pants said:


> QUESTION: Since the HDR/SDR setting can not be assigned to different picture/color/memory modes, are you saying that you put the pj on HDR-1 and then calibrate everything for 4K / HDR / 1080p / SDR / etc... all with the HDR-1 mode intact 24/7?
> I never thought about doing that, but I wonder if it screws up SDR content.


Yes that will screw SDR content unless you play again with gamma curve and so on...
On my side I automated the HDR1 / Auti swicth with my Harmony Remote.


----------



## achanonier

Oledurt said:


> not to rain on anyones parade, but messing with the gamma in this way may look good for some scenes but overall may not be the best.
> 
> Really Epson should provide a separate contrast setting for HDR.
> 
> That being said it is your projector do what you want.
> 
> I find that HDR looks great on this projector and is hands down better than SDR.
> 
> I run in bright cinema mode, HDR 1, and I set Epson Super White to on
> 
> I than use my Disney Wow Blu ray to set brightness, contrast, and color saturation.
> 
> my gamma is set to -1. I find this combination is not overly dark even in dark movies like suicide squad.
> 
> The picture I get with HDR, although not as good...Is in the same ball park as my LG OLED.
> 
> For a projected image on a 125 inch cinemascope screen I find the picture to be stunning.
> 
> To me it is not enough of an improvement to spend $7000 more to get a native 4k projector.
> 
> I am very happy with this projector.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Yes I understand exactly what you feel I, too was reluctant to play with the gamma Curve, and I would obviously prefer Epson to provide a HDR saturation slider.
But to me the image without adjustments is not acceptable as is in eco mode and HDR 1, you have the HDR effect but at the expense of a somehow dull and contrasts lacking image in the mid range.
Of course as any setup it's a matter of taste !

Here are some more screenshots from a darker movie :


----------



## achanonier

shin_iori said:


> hi
> 
> very impressive pictures.
> can you post a picture of your final Gamma curve please ?
> 
> best regard


Here is is


----------



## nielvm

Which color mode? Other adjustments?

Which screen are you using?


----------



## achanonier

nielvm said:


> Which color mode? Other adjustments?
> 
> Which screen are you using?



Mode Natural
HDR 1
Epson super white ON : that avoid the white clipping inherent to HDR 1
Contrast 50
Brightness 50
Color 55 (to compensate custom gamma curve)
Eco mode
Iris 0
Auto Iris Normal
Custom Gamma Curve


Screen is a classical gain 1 Lumen Movie Palace 2m wide
Half gain angle is 150°

Dedicated room with no windows with mid to light grey walls.


----------



## nielvm

Thx, will try this later today,

The actual numbers of the gamma would be nice! (Si ce n'est pas trop difficile )


----------



## achanonier

nielvm said:


> Thx, will try this later today,
> 
> The actual numbers of the gamma would be nice! (Si ce n'est pas trop difficile )


Sure I'll check theses tonight but then again do not take it as absolute reference you may like it or not and want to adjust !

(et non c'est pas trop difficile !  )


----------



## achanonier

I think I should share this here : 


_Panasonic has also recognised that HDR content is generally unsuitable for watching in high ambient lighting, since the source signal is encoded in absolute luminance as code values, and most HDR TVs would max out their [Backlight] and [Contrast] settings in HDR mode, leaving little headroom for manoeuvre unlike SDR (whose video signal operates in relative luminance) where gamma can be used effectively to brighten the picture by applying a gain adjustment. Some viewers engage [Dynamic Contrast] on their televisions to obtain a luminance boost for watching HDR during daytime, but it’s far from ideal because there’s little to no compensation for the PQ (perceptual quantisation) EOTF (electro-optical transfer function) used in ST.2084 HDR10 standard.

What Panasonic engineers have designed is very clever: they will first convert the input YUV signal to linear RGB before applying gain adjustments, therefore raising the brightness of hard-to-see dark detail for bright-room viewing, yet without degrading the image even when the scene cuts to a brighter one. The company is planning to add these useful features to the already launched UB900 and UB700 via a firmware update in the future._

Can't wait the new firmware for my UB700 to compare with the custom Gamma Curve!
It's incredible that Epson doesn't bring any answer on the PJ side...


----------



## covsound1

achanonier said:


> I think I should share this here :
> 
> 
> _Panasonic has also recognised that HDR content is generally unsuitable for watching in high ambient lighting, since the source signal is encoded in absolute luminance as code values, and most HDR TVs would max out their [Backlight] and [Contrast] settings in HDR mode, leaving little headroom for manoeuvre unlike SDR (whose video signal operates in relative luminance) where gamma can be used effectively to brighten the picture by applying a gain adjustment. Some viewers engage [Dynamic Contrast] on their televisions to obtain a luminance boost for watching HDR during daytime, but it’s far from ideal because there’s little to no compensation for the PQ (perceptual quantisation) EOTF (electro-optical transfer function) used in ST.2084 HDR10 standard.
> 
> What Panasonic engineers have designed is very clever: they will first convert the input YUV signal to linear RGB before applying gain adjustments, therefore raising the brightness of hard-to-see dark detail for bright-room viewing, yet without degrading the image even when the scene cuts to a brighter one. The company is planning to add these useful features to the already launched UB900 and UB700 via a firmware update in the future._
> 
> Can't wait the new firmware for my UB700 to compare with the custom Gamma Curve!
> It's incredible that Epson doesn't bring any answer on the PJ side...


ok i see why your gamma curves are more extreme than my curves as you are in natural mode.i tried your curves in cinema mode and got a funny magenta push . i am thinking about setting the panny to rgb standard trying your curves in natural as the epson allows rgb with no conversion in natural mode. thank you for information of panny future update.


----------



## nielvm

Just saw that you use the natural color mode.
Bit shame that you don't really profit from the wider color gamut provided by HDR.

Perhaps this is the best way to go though, ignore the wider color gamut and go for a brighter color mode. Just enjoy the contrastrich picture...


----------



## swyda038

achanonier said:


> What about the cooling in your setup ?
> 
> Here is mine but if I close the front all the heat will stay inside...
> By the way the box is full lenght


What's the amount of space you have between the top of your projector and the ceiling of the boxed in space?


----------



## achanonier

swyda038 said:


> I will have a very similar setup with the front being completely open (as you have it) as well as the backside. Quick question, with the front being open, is this enough to cool the projector even if the top and bottom are very tight, or do you need a minimum space around the entire projector? Also, do you know if the feet can come off of the projector? I may need to remove the feet to gain more clearance around mine once I receive it.
> Thanks!



The opening is 20cm high and 55cm wide as per the drawings I made 6 years ago.
That leaves 3cm of margin, for me its more 2cm under the PJ and 1cm above.

PS : Sorry the drawing is in French and Metric System (I can deal with english but no way I can do anything with Imperial units  ...) 



Air intake and exhaust is on the front so there is absolutely not discernable heat inside the "box" that is actually 4.7m wide.
I have two air vents (no fan at all) on the back. I can put my arm inside when I remove the vent I did this after a 6 hours projection and there was absolutely no heat inside.

I have no idea if the feet can come off but depending on you setup you may need them for tilt and roll adjustment...


----------



## dholmes54

Since I don't have 4k player yet,what are anyone have settings for SDR?


----------



## achanonier

nielvm said:


> Just saw that you use the natural color mode.
> Bit shame that you don't really profit from the wider color gamut provided by HDR.
> 
> Perhaps this is the best way to go though, ignore the wider color gamut and go for a brighter color mode. Just enjoy the contrastrich picture...


Natural doesn't break WCG and BT2020. You still have WCG and BT2020 signal with Natural.

But you are right as the filter is not beeing engaged you get something a little narrower than P3 colorspace which is the target for BT2020 content as the PJ cannot do complete BT2020.

The only two modes that use the filter for accurate P3 colorspace are Cinema and Digital Cinema and they are way too dark because of the filter... So that's a no go for me.
Bright cinema doesnt, it's often recommanded for HDR because of it's gamma curve which is a the name says "bright" in terms of reproductible colorspace it's not better than natural. And I don't like the way it pull up the black areas, I feel it lacks details in dark areas...


But still the gammut is much bigger than with BT709 colorspace and that is very noticeable. It was my main pont doing this other wise I would juste go with the Pany HDR--> SDR conversion wich is good but which also converts back to BT709. 

Projectorsreviews.com has made a bright cinema calibration for BT709 and DCI/P3. Look at the diffrences bewteen the gamuts.
It would be similar with Natural (both don't engage the filter)



















And believe me there is a huge difference on screen in colors between BT709 and the near P3 colorspace that I get.


----------



## nielvm

I measures the colors in natural mode when feeding bt2020 colors, they are nearly the same as rec709, very little difference...

Of course most worldly colors van be made with rec709 colors, so perhaps the advantage isn't as great as hoped/suspected...


----------



## am2model3

HDMI 2.1 bomb dropped! 48gbps! 

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_1/index.aspx


----------



## John2017

*150 inch screen*

Has anybody used 5040 on a 150 inch screen for 3d? Does it work out well?


----------



## Oledurt

achanonier said:


> Yes I understand exactly what you feel I, too was reluctant to play with the gamma Curve, and I would obviously prefer Epson to provide a HDR saturation slider.
> 
> But to me the image without adjustments is not acceptable as is in eco mode and HDR 1, you have the HDR effect but at the expense of a somehow dull and contrasts lacking image in the mid range.
> 
> Of course as any setup it's a matter of taste !
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some more screenshots from a darker movie :




I did some testing. I set up my screen with your settings. I compare your result with my bright cinema result and than I use a baseline of a near perfect 4k HDR image on my LG OLED.

I think you are on to something here.




























excuse the bad glare on the oled pics. the order of the pics are Natural/custom gamma, OLED, bright cinema/gamma -1 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## achanonier

Oledurt said:


> I did some testing. I set up my screen with your settings. I compare your result with my bright cinema result and than I use a baseline of a near perfect 4k HDR image on my LG OLED.
> 
> I think you are on to something here.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes that's why I wanted to share with you guys.
The Bright cinema mode cleary exhibits that the blacks are both greyish AND muted like there is not contrast. Its gamma curve must be very weired...

Also for the second set of picture look at how the blue part of the flags stand out on the Custom curve and OLed and how it melts with the wall behind onn the Bright cinema mode...

And for the last one if you check the lower part of the image there is much more details in the houses with the custom curve too and it maintains a better black level.


For the gamma values for those who wondered
From left to right

0
+19
+27
+29
+30
+30
+28
+20
0


----------



## nielvm

Thank you, testing them now.

Looking pretty good indeed.


----------



## john barlow

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs,I'm staying with std blu-rays for now uhd later this yr.


I am so glad I got to watch a few UHD discs the last couple of days because I've been able to do settings on the fly and I'm getting proficient at it already in only a couple of days. The remote for the 5040UB is laid out perfectly for me and I like the thoughtfulness of quick access buttons for Memory and lens position. I can deal with different settings from various formats and am pleased with the ease of finding settings on my first Epson projectors. Everyday, I find something new that thrills me. It's has an excellent ecosystem. Well thought out. I got some great UHD images last night. I have been noticing some mosquito noise occasionally with some programming. It was frustrating at first but, I am getting proficient at ameliorating anomalies. Say that three times fast.


----------



## john barlow

nielvm said:


> Actually, the only correct color modes for HDR content are cinema or digital cinema. These modes use a color filter to allow for a wider color gamut. Using other modes will definitely be brighter, but at the cost of color.


I've found that to be the case as well. You can offset that symptom by jacking up the saturation no? My main issue is picture noise at time. I've never dealt with this issue with either of my Panny PJ's. Although, there was not 4k or HDR to deal with. This is new territory for me, learning to navigate settings on the fly. It's certainly challenging but, it's kind of fun too. Who knows, where the dust will settle but, it's nice to have options. When HD optical discs hit the market you had to choose Blu or HDD, one or the other. I had good advice and went Blu. I still read people ranting about that all these years later that were in the opposite camp. It reminded me of the Apple fanboys and their constant ridicule of Microsoft. That was useful. All in all, it's usually the rule that the more choices we consumers get in products and features, the happier we will be. Even if there is a little learning and work involved. Good thing I retired in April. At the end of the day, I'm glad Oppo and Epson are working to give consumers more options. We get the learning curve as early adopters but, I have to do something with my life. I have faith that these two great American companies will work with us to settle our PQ issues in a sincere manner and without delay.


----------



## sddp

am2model3 said:


> HDMI 2.1 bomb dropped! 48gbps!
> 
> http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdmi_2_1/index.aspx






And this is one of the main reasons why I bought Monster HDMI platinum cables. I know I spent a lot more, but they offer a lifetime free upgrade. So when the day that 2.1 at 48gbps becomes a necessity (probably a decade or more from now, but eventually it'll happen, and in 2035 there'll be new specs at 24K 100gbps, and so on) I just make a phone call to get the latest and greatest all over again for free.


----------



## sddp

John2017 said:


> Has anybody used 5040 on a 150 inch screen for 3d? Does it work out well?




Yes that was one of my main reasons why I got the 5040, and it is WAY better 3D than compared to my Mitsubishi 92" 3D.


There are some issues with this thing I have NEVER seen or experienced in all the 3D HDTV I've had in the last 10 years called ghosting/crosstalk. That now I have with the 5040. I haven't yet done all the calibrating with S&M disc and haven't fully tinkered with all the 3D settings yet. But I noticed it while testing it out on Transformers 3D Imax Blu ray and it was frustrating.


However, on the BR disc for Teenage Ninja Turtles, in the Extras they had a trailer or some 2 min sample in 3D and it was FLAWLESS and AMAZING. The 3D did have WAY more pop then any of my Mitsubishi DLP's and more than my Samsun 3D LED.


I only buy 3D disc and the discs that are not available in 3D, I use my 3D-Bee converter box which is as good if not better than native 3D Blu rays


----------



## gnolivos

achanonier said:


> Yes that's why I wanted to share with you guys.
> 
> The Bright cinema mode cleary exhibits that the blacks are both greyish AND muted like there is not contrast. Its gamma curve must be very weired...
> 
> 
> 
> Also for the second set of picture look at how the blue part of the flags stand out on the Custom curve and OLed and how it melts with the wall behind onn the Bright cinema mode...
> 
> 
> 
> And for the last one if you check the lower part of the image there is much more details in the houses with the custom curve too and it maintains a better black level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the gamma values for those who wondered
> 
> From left to right
> 
> 
> 
> 0
> 
> +19
> 
> +27
> 
> +29
> 
> +30
> 
> +30
> 
> +28
> 
> +20
> 
> 0




Been trying to follow this. My understanding is this is a custom curve to be applied to NATURAL mode, right? Any other tweaks aside from the mandatory Brightness and Contrast?


----------



## nielvm

Yes, color to 55, hdr mode 1 and super white "on". See above.


----------



## Viche

Interesting:
*OPTOMA UHD60
Native 4K Home Theater Projector*

*Today Optoma unveiled the new Optoma UHD60, which at $2,799 will be the first home theater projector to offer native 4K (3840x2160) resolution below $3,000.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/optoma-uhd60.htm?em
*


----------



## therecanbeonly1

achanonier said:


> Yes that's why I wanted to share with you guys.
> The Bright cinema mode cleary exhibits that the blacks are both greyish AND muted like there is not contrast. Its gamma curve must be very weired...
> 
> Also for the second set of picture look at how the blue part of the flags stand out on the Custom curve and OLed and how it melts with the wall behind onn the Bright cinema mode...
> 
> And for the last one if you check the lower part of the image there is much more details in the houses with the custom curve too and it maintains a better black level.
> 
> 
> For the gamma values for those who wondered
> From left to right
> 
> 0
> +19
> +27
> +29
> +30
> +30
> +28
> +20
> 0


Thanks, used your settings, the picture does look good, would be great if we could get a similar result in cinema mode with the P3 filter.


----------



## Oledurt

been playing around with these gamma settings and i'll be honest i can get just as good if not better picture in digital cinema mode gamma set at 0 as long as I use HDR 1 with super white. Shadow detail is great, and pic is bright enough.

This leads me to believe strongly that Epson just needs to add a way to tweak the HDR brightness separately. it is clear that the projector puts out plenty of light. Add a customized HDR function similar to how you can customize the gamma. Problem solved.

Perhaps future firmware will address this. Until than I am running Digital Cinema, HDR 1, and Super White on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

SALadder22FF said:


> I am having an issue also with the Ube wireless. My ROKU 4 when trying to play Youtube videos will lose the signal for about 3 seconds while loading the video and then pick it back up. It did this while watching a video on VUDU and has done it with Netflix as well. DirecTV through the Xbox One has never dropped signal once.
> 
> Does anyone know what this might be? I am thinking about returning the ROKU, but I don't know what would cause it to lose signal like that every time a video loads.
> 
> Anyone with knowledge of this I would really appreciate your help. Thank you


It's probably not the ROKU. Sounds like you may have an insufficient broadband connection. You can get perfect DirecTV even with the lowly DSL connection but may need a high capcity DSL to keep up with content.


----------



## chiltonj

Used the settings and I like it. Turned up Brightness to 60 for my own taste. Using preset 3.



















Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

achanonier said:


> Sure I'll check theses tonight but then again do not take it as absolute reference you may like it or not and want to adjust !
> 
> (et non c'est pas trop difficile !  )


Pardon my 4th year poor french but 
Une question sur votre signature. Il traduit à.. 'Et pas cela n'est pas trop difficile'. Cet argot signifie-t-il 'non trop difficile pour moi' ?

or did you mean "et c'est pas trop difficile" (e.g. non should not be there)?


----------



## covsound1

i didnt try natural with custom posted gamma curve, i will. but using custom gamma with a p3 mode works for me -2,4,5,4,3,3,1,0,0 along with panny -3 brightness and +3 contrast iris closed down to 14 in eco mode. hdr 1 or 2 sometimes 3 (pacific rim). 3d like picture.


----------



## nielvm

ndabunka said:


> Pardon my 4th year poor french but
> Une question sur votre signature. Il traduit à.. 'Et pas cela n'est pas trop difficile'. Cet argot signifie-t-il 'non trop difficile pour moi' ?
> 
> or did you mean "et c'est pas trop difficile" (e.g. non should not be there)?


I asked him if it's not too difficult to post the exact gamma settings, he answered: no it's not too difficult.


That's all


----------



## ndabunka

nielvm said:


> I asked him if it's not too difficult to post the exact gamma settings, he answered: no it's not too difficult.
> 
> 
> That's all


A-Ha!
Now it makes sense. (missing) punctuation gets me EVERY time! :laugh:


----------



## achanonier

ndabunka said:


> Pardon my 4th year poor french but
> Une question sur votre signature. Il traduit à.. 'Et pas cela n'est pas trop difficile'. Cet argot signifie-t-il 'non trop difficile pour moi' ?
> 
> or did you mean "et c'est pas trop difficile" (e.g. non should not be there)?


LOL

I meant
And no (answer to question) it's not too difficult !


----------



## achanonier

I did try the custom gamma (even pumped a bit) with Digital Cinema.
It's pretty good actually but a little to dark in eco mode.
Very good in High Lamp mode.

What I noticed is that Digital Cinema with eco lamp is greenish compared to Natural mode with eco mode.
Did not know which one was more acurate until I pushed the lamp to high mode with Digital Cinema, the greenish is gone and colors look almost like eco in Natural mode.

So I believe that the Color modes were optimised with lamp mode in mind. It does actually make sens that the bulb white color changes with power output.


----------



## nielvm

That's what I liked the most about your settings in natural mode, the colors stay realistic.

In cinema mode it is very difficult to obtain good skin tones.


----------



## Soccerdude

Which HDMI [6040] input 1-2 used for 4k HDMI out of oppo 203 player?..


----------



## aaranddeeman

achanonier said:


> I did try the custom gamma (even pumped a bit) with Digital Cinema.
> It's pretty good actually but a little to dark in eco mode.
> Very good in High Lamp mode.
> 
> What I noticed is that Digital Cinema with eco lamp is greenish compared to Natural mode with eco mode.
> Did not know which one was more acurate until I pushed the lamp to high mode with Digital Cinema, the greenish is gone and colors look almost like eco in Natural mode.
> 
> So I believe that the Color modes were optimised with lamp mode in mind. It does actually make sens that the bulb white color changes with power output.


In Cinema and Digital Cinema, the Green and blue primaries and magenta secondary are bit off from the target (DCI-P3)
Natural if pretty close (REC.709) with less deviation (IIRC).
May be that is what you may be seeing.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Soccerdude said:


> Which HDMI [6040] input 1-2 used for 4k HDMI out of oppo 203 player?..


Whichever says HDCP2.2 (I guess it is HDMI1)


----------



## shin_iori

achanonier said:


> Yes that's why I wanted to share with you guys.
> The Bright cinema mode cleary exhibits that the blacks are both greyish AND muted like there is not contrast. Its gamma curve must be very weired...
> 
> Also for the second set of picture look at how the blue part of the flags stand out on the Custom curve and OLed and how it melts with the wall behind onn the Bright cinema mode...
> 
> And for the last one if you check the lower part of the image there is much more details in the houses with the custom curve too and it maintains a better black level.
> 
> 
> For the gamma values for those who wondered
> From left to right
> 
> 0
> +19
> +27
> +29
> +30
> +30
> +28
> +20
> 0


thanks a lot
i will test your configuration.

ps : do you speek french ?


----------



## aaranddeeman

shin_iori said:


> ps : do you speek french ?


Ok. Please don't start French now. It's all Greek to most of us..


----------



## covsound1

for me i get more color fidelity in eco mode than high lamp mode the change does indeed add more of a blue push that may be more acceptable for some but when i see color in black i have a hard time enjoying what i see. this is one of reasons i use p3 modes almost all the the time. really comes down to what you like no right or wrong.


----------



## achanonier

shin_iori said:


> thanks a lot
> i will test your configuration.
> 
> ps : do you speek french ?


I am french actually !


----------



## achanonier

covsound1 said:


> for me i get more color fidelity in eco mode than high lamp mode the change does indeed add more of a blue push that may be more acceptable for some but when i see color in black i have a hard time enjoying what i see. this is one of reasons i use p3 modes almost all the the time. really comes down to what you like no right or wrong.


Yes you're right, everything i up to one's taste !
HDR is much about compromises at the moment so everybody will do it's own ! 
The most important is that people can enjoy HDR with this great PJ !


----------



## ana_moo_ana

was hoping to have official word from Epson about the current HDR situation & maybe a tweaking settings like what other companies did, sadly nothing yet. Not sure it's even on their radar.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Well after home demoing a 6040UB for a few weeks I am ready to plug the plug and buy this projector.

Now I remember reading somewhere that the 5040UBe has an upgraded HDMI chipset that has a higher bandwidth than the 6040UB.

So the question is should I buy for 5040UB for the better HDMI chipset?


----------



## DireWolf08

dholmes54 said:


> Since I don't have 4k player yet,what are anyone have settings for SDR?


I would be interested in this as well, just to see what other people have. 

I have done some basic initial adjustments. I am at work, so I can't look up the exact settings, but I know I started from Cinema mode and did not have to adjust much. I have a 110" Carl's Place ALR screen and used DVE HD Basics disc for adjustments.


----------



## gnolivos

DireWolf08 said:


> I would be interested in this as well, just to see what other people have.
> 
> 
> 
> I have done some basic initial adjustments. I am at work, so I can't look up the exact settings, but I know I started from Cinema mode and did not have to adjust much. I have a 110" Carl's Place ALR screen and used DVE HD Basics disc for adjustments.




For me on SDR it is Cinema mode in Eco. I applied some custom gamma adjustments based on one of the professional review sites. But it didn't change things dramatically imho. It looks spot on and I have no complaints about color rendition.


----------



## JewDaddy

achanonier said:


> Here are some 4k HDR shots with my custom gamma curve.
> 
> The Smartphone pciture don't do justice to the real image but it can give an idea !




Looks great! Can you post your custom gamma settings?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shin_iori

achanonier said:


> I am french actually !


OK 
i'm french too
i will test your gamma curve this week end.


----------



## ndabunka

AdamAttewell said:


> Well after home demoing a 6040UB for a few weeks I am ready to plug the plug and buy this projector.
> 
> Now I remember reading somewhere that the 5040UBe has an upgraded HDMI chipset that has a higher bandwidth than the 6040UB.
> 
> So the question is should I buy for 5040UB for the better HDMI chipset?


There are no chipset differences between the 5040 and 6040 choices. There IS a difference between the normal and the wireless versions of each so the difference is between a ub (normal wired) vs. a ube (wireless & $300 more expensive). Wireless versions are available on both the 5040 as well as the 6040


----------



## AdamAttewell

ndabunka said:


> There are no chipset differences between the 5040 and 6040 choices. There IS a difference between the normal and the wireless versions of each so the difference is between a ub (normal wired) vs. a ube (wireless & $300 more expensive). Wireless versions are available on both the 5040 as well as the 6040


Apologies, being in the UK we have different model numbers and I have gotten the US model number mixed up.

So Should I buy the wireless version to get the better HDMI chipset or wont I be able to to advantage of the extra bandwidth?


----------



## gnolivos

Buy wireless. You will have some added advantages over wired.


----------



## dholmes54

sddp said:


> And this is one of the main reasons why I bought Monster HDMI platinum cables. I know I spent a lot more, but they offer a lifetime free upgrade. So when the day that 2.1 at 48gbps becomes a necessity (probably a decade or more from now, but eventually it'll happen, and in 2035 there'll be new specs at 24K 100gbps, and so on) I just make a phone call to get the latest and greatest all over again for free.


A lot of people over the last few years say that Monster cables are too expensive, I looked up the price of the 35ft HDMI cable I need and its a lot of money,with that said Monster makes good cables the innterconnects between my avr and amps are 25 yrs old so maybe 200.00$ is not that bad,we pay a lot for the rest of are equipment!


----------



## AdamAttewell

gnolivos said:


> Buy wireless. You will have some added advantages over wired.


That's what I thought, I am right in saying that at present the increased bandwidth can only be taken advantage of by using the wireless connection as when you use a hardwired connection the chipset defaults back to the limited bandwidth?


----------



## dotorg

SALadder22FF said:


> I am having an issue also with the Ube wireless. My ROKU 4 when trying to play Youtube videos will lose the signal for about 3 seconds while loading the video and then pick it back up. It did this while watching a video on VUDU and has done it with Netflix as well. DirecTV through the Xbox One has never dropped signal once.
> 
> Does anyone know what this might be? I am thinking about returning the ROKU, but I don't know what would cause it to lose signal like that every time a video loads.
> 
> Anyone with knowledge of this I would really appreciate your help. Thank you


That's because its switching resolutions, your Xbox isn't. If your Xbox is set to 4K and you put on an HDR UHD disk, you'll see it do the same thing as it switches down to 24fps UHD. If you set your Xbox to 1080P, you'll see it every time you go into Netflix because Netflix will request 4K.

That's just the HDMI renegotiating happening.


----------



## BDUB619

Viche said:


> Interesting:
> *OPTOMA UHD60
> Native 4K Home Theater Projector*
> 
> *Today Optoma unveiled the new Optoma UHD60, which at $2,799 will be the first home theater projector to offer native 4K (3840x2160) resolution below $3,000.
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/optoma-uhd60.htm?em
> *


Very interesting!

Was hoping there would be some sub $3000 4k PJ's debuting at CES 2017!

I had to return my Epson 5040UB because I couldn't get any better than 2k resolution out of it with PS4 Pro, and the lack of motion enhancements in "faux k" mode made my games and movie framerates seem very choppy. I was bummed.


----------



## Waikis

For those who's used the pj for several hundred hours now, what's your peak white fl level at now?


----------



## gnolivos

Waikis said:


> For those who's used the pj for several hundred hours now, what's your peak white fl level at now?




I don't have a way to measure, but I can say in my darkened room, I am still using eco bulb, and cinema mode, with the iris closed at -7!


----------



## nielvm

Waikis said:


> For those who's used the pj for several hundred hours now, what's your peak white fl level at now?


About 40ftl on a 100"screen in eco mode.


----------



## Waikis

Hmm. 
I'm using a 100" black widow screen, PJ is 3.5m away and I'm only getting about 20 fl with medium lamp .

Lamp is only about 220hrs.


----------



## aaranddeeman

covsound1 said:


> for me i get more color fidelity in eco mode than high lamp mode the change does indeed add more of a blue push that may be more acceptable for some but when i see color in black i have a hard time enjoying what i see. this is one of reasons i use p3 modes almost all the the time. really comes down to what you like no right or wrong.


Same here. I am almost always using Cinema mode. May be just flip for a second to other and come back on next click.


----------



## aaranddeeman

If you don't already have in your collection this one is a must have blu ray (albeit its SDR) to showcase your fine display. May it be this PJ or any other or even a flat panel.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsara-Blu-ray-Balinese-Legong-Dancers/dp/B008N9AAQ4


----------



## Ronman79

ndabunka said:


> There are no chipset differences between the 5040 and 6040 choices. There IS a difference between the normal and the wireless versions of each so the difference is between a ub (normal wired) vs. a ube (wireless & $300 more expensive). Wireless versions are available on both the 5040 as well as the 6040


You've said this before. But.... There is no wireless 6040 version. 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

Waikis said:


> Hmm.
> I'm using a 100" black widow screen, PJ is 3.5m away and I'm only getting about 20 fl with medium lamp .
> 
> Lamp is only about 220hrs.


Do you use natural mode?


----------



## Waikis

nielvm said:


> Do you use natural mode?


Dynamic


----------



## nielvm

Strange, iris fully open?


----------



## Waikis

nielvm said:


> Strange, iris fully open?


Yep, medium lamp, so iris is fully open. Im using max horizontal lens shift though, but i dont think that reduces brightness?


----------



## nielvm

Medium lamp doesn't mean the iris is fully open...


----------



## aaranddeeman

nielvm said:


> Medium lamp doesn't mean the iris is fully open...


May be he meant to say "...medium lamp and iris fully open..."


----------



## dholmes54

I like the pq of this projector but having trouble getting good blacks,what's a good setting for that,also since I'm only using std blu-rays for now would a darbee 5000 help?


----------



## SALadder22FF

dotorg said:


> That's because its switching resolutions, your Xbox isn't. If your Xbox is set to 4K and you put on an HDR UHD disk, you'll see it do the same thing as it switches down to 24fps UHD. If you set your Xbox to 1080P, you'll see it every time you go into Netflix because Netflix will request 4K.
> 
> That's just the HDMI renegotiating happening.


Thanks! I had figured this out last week. I had set the ROKU to recognize my display as 4K UHD HDR. I switched it down to 4K UHD. Now it does not switch.

Very happy with the picture quality.

My only thing is I cannot get it perfectly fit onto the zero edge screen. The installer used Keystone at 1 which I've seen y'all are against on this forum. It's like it's off just a little bit. He also said it's designed to bleed over a little bit, but becaues the zero edge is so small it's noticeable. Is this true?


----------



## Waikis

nielvm said:


> Medium lamp doesn't mean the iris is fully open...


I was referring to manual iris, since that only works in eco mode.

But yeah, auto iris is set to off.


----------



## aaranddeeman

SALadder22FF said:


> Thanks! I had figured this out last week. I had set the ROKU to recognize my display as 4K UHD HDR. I switched it down to 4K UHD. Now it does not switch.
> 
> Very happy with the picture quality.
> 
> My only thing is I cannot get it perfectly fit onto the zero edge screen. The installer used Keystone at 1 which I've seen y'all are against on this forum. It's like it's off just a little bit. He also said it's designed to bleed over a little bit, but becaues the zero edge is so small it's noticeable. Is this true?


It's very hard to match edge to edge and corner to corner any PJ with any screen, unless you do the entire mounting using laster corrected computer driven automated equipment.
In short, just add a bit of spill. You will forget it soon. 
And avoid keystone. If you need keystone, then your PJ is not square to the screen. It's tilted. 
Just make it square and use only lens shift to adjust.


----------



## Smarty-pants

SALadder22FF said:


> Thanks! I had figured this out last week. I had set the ROKU to recognize my display as 4K UHD HDR. I switched it down to 4K UHD. Now it does not switch.
> 
> Very happy with the picture quality.
> 
> My only thing is I cannot get it perfectly fit onto the zero edge screen. The installer used Keystone at 1 which I've seen y'all are against on this forum. It's like it's off just a little bit. He also said it's designed to bleed over a little bit, but becaues the zero edge is so small it's noticeable. Is this true?


It's possible to get the image centered properly onto your screen and without keystone too as long as the projector mount
has the proper adjustments. It does take time and can be a very tedious process, but of course that is also why people
pay an installer to do it. I'm assuming you have it ceiling mounted upside down (?).
No matter how you have it installed though, not being able to fit it onto your screen without overscanning the image
means your installer didn't know wtf he was doing, and you didn't get what you paid for unless the install price was really cheap.


----------



## spirithockey79

Has anyone has an issue with their 5040 with the manual iris settings not working like it has been? Prior to today whenever I change the iris setting (like from -20 to -10) I could notice a change with each click. I could also hear the iris adjust with every click. Well, today I was messing around with HDR settings for the Oppo 203 and have read recent posts about custom gamma and some people getting the Cinema or Digital Cinema mode to look good with HDR1 and Iris at 0. So I tried this and when I started changing the Iris I really couldn't tell a difference. It still seemed dark at 0. So I turned off HDR and just thought I would mess with the Iris in various color modes. I tried Natural, Cinema, Bright Cinema, and Digital Cinema. To my surprise I couldn't see any noticeable changes in lamp brightness. I went from -20 to 0 in each. Also, I could only hear the iris adjust on every other click (not every click like I'm pretty sure I have heard every other time prior to today). I turned the pj off and then tried again about 10 min later. Same issue. Earlier this morning (prior to me encountering this) my projector just turned off with the orange lamp indicator and blue power light blinking. Not sure if this would have any impact on the iris issue though. 

Any thoughts? I haven't called Epson yet.


----------



## ndabunka

Ronman79 said:


> You've said this before. But.... There is no wireless 6040 version.
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


Thanks for the clairification. Obviously I was not aware that Epson had not released a wireless version of the 6040. I assume then that there is also no european equivalent wireless as well then.


----------



## Ronman79

ndabunka said:


> Thanks for the clairification. Obviously I was not aware that Epson had not released a wireless version of the 6040. I assume then that there is also no european equivalent wireless as well then.


You're welcome, and I don't think so. Odd, especially seeing that some have experienced better pass through of higher gbps hdmi signal with the UBE... 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

I got the Oppo 203 today. I set it up in the back of the room so that the short HDMI cord that Oppo includes could be hooked up straight to the projector and then I used a longer cord I had to run the audio out to my AVR. I want to make sure that any issues I might have would not be because of a HDMI cord that is too long. 

I put in the 4K Miss Peregrin's Home for Peculiar Children because I have read that it is one of the best looking 4K disks available. It looked good. Next I tried out the Blu Ray of the same movie. Looks the same to me. 

Surely I must be missing a setting. 

Here is what my projector says:




I notice that the frame interpolation option is greyed out. Not that I use it, I hate it but it seems like it's only not available on 1080i sources so just wondering..




Also, 4K enhancement is greyed out too. Not sure if that means anything.


----------



## carp

The last few days I have been checking out 4K videos on youtube using a new Roku 4. Maybe I'm disappointed in the 4K disk because the youtube 4k stuff blows it away.


----------



## john barlow

brianlvi3 said:


> I also have the same issue. I connected the wireless transmitter directly in a straight line about 10 feet away and down about 6 feet. It is plugged into my Panamax. All I hear is a high pitch. It changes a bit if I start moving it around. I have not had a chance to play with it yet.
> 
> I ordered a 35 foot Celerity HDMI cable coming today. For now I have been running an Audioquest 8 meter HDMI cable with mostly good results. A drop out on UHD movie after an hour.
> 
> I can not live with any type of feedback/high pitch like what I experienced. Not sure what is causing it as i have a dedicated circuit to my home theater and no ground loop problems.


Try a cheater plug?


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> been playing around with these gamma settings and i'll be honest i can get just as good if not better picture in digital cinema mode gamma set at 0 as long as I use HDR 1 with super white. Shadow detail is great, and pic is bright enough.
> 
> This leads me to believe strongly that Epson just needs to add a way to tweak the HDR brightness separately. it is clear that the projector puts out plenty of light. Add a customized HDR function similar to how you can customize the gamma. Problem solved.
> 
> Perhaps future firmware will address this. Until than I am running Digital Cinema, HDR 1, and Super White on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Is your picture as bright as the Natural mode with custom gamma used by the individual you responded to? Reason I ask is I've tried his settings and I've also tried Dig Cin, HDR 1, Super White ON, gamma 0 and Iris at 0 and that picture is no where near as bright as his with Natural mode. I've tried gamma 1 & 2 and still not that great of an HDR picture.

Prior to seeing his Natural / Custom Gamma settings I would always default to Bright Cinema, Gamma 1 or 2, HDR 1, and Iris between 0-5 --- but after trying his settings I like his much better.

I have a 110" 2.35 screen and using Oppo 203 for UHD HDR. Room is light controlled and almost pitch black.

I'd like to find a good Cinema or Dig Cin setting but just not seeing how.


----------



## brianlvi3

john barlow said:


> Try a cheater plug?


If that does work, what would be the disadvantage/danger leaving it that way? No ground? Also I am not sure why my Optimum cable box doesn't connect. Thanks.


----------



## SALadder22FF

aaranddeeman said:


> It's very hard to match edge to edge and corner to corner any PJ with any screen, unless you do the entire mounting using laster corrected computer driven automated equipment.
> In short, just add a bit of spill. You will forget it soon.
> And avoid keystone. If you need keystone, then your PJ is not square to the screen. It's tilted.
> Just make it square and use only lens shift to adjust.





Smarty-pants said:


> It's possible to get the image centered properly onto your screen and without keystone too as long as the projector mount
> has the proper adjustments. It does take time and can be a very tedious process, but of course that is also why people
> pay an installer to do it. I'm assuming you have it ceiling mounted upside down (?).
> No matter how you have it installed though, not being able to fit it onto your screen without overscanning the image
> means your installer didn't know wtf he was doing, and you didn't get what you paid for unless the install price was really cheap.


HMM so which is it?


----------



## Waikis

spirithockey79 said:


> Has anyone has an issue with their 5040 with the manual iris settings not working like it has been? Prior to today whenever I change the iris setting (like from -20 to -10) I could notice a change with each click. I could also hear the iris adjust with every click. Well, today I was messing around with HDR settings for the Oppo 203 and have read recent posts about custom gamma and some people getting the Cinema or Digital Cinema mode to look good with HDR1 and Iris at 0. So I tried this and when I started changing the Iris I really couldn't tell a difference. It still seemed dark at 0. So I turned off HDR and just thought I would mess with the Iris in various color modes. I tried Natural, Cinema, Bright Cinema, and Digital Cinema. To my surprise I couldn't see any noticeable changes in lamp brightness. I went from -20 to 0 in each. Also, I could only hear the iris adjust on every other click (not every click like I'm pretty sure I have heard every other time prior to today). I turned the pj off and then tried again about 10 min later. Same issue. Earlier this morning (prior to me encountering this) my projector just turned off with the orange lamp indicator and blue power light blinking. Not sure if this would have any impact on the iris issue though.
> 
> Any thoughts? I haven't called Epson yet.


I had the power and lamp light problem several times now.
Will speak to epson next week to see if they can do anything about it.

No issue with manual iris though.


----------



## Oledurt

see below


----------



## Oledurt

spirithockey79 said:


> Is your picture as bright as the Natural mode with custom gamma used by the individual you responded to? Reason I ask is I've tried his settings and I've also tried Dig Cin, HDR 1, Super White ON, gamma 0 and Iris at 0 and that picture is no where near as bright as his with Natural mode. I've tried gamma 1 & 2 and still not that great of an HDR picture.
> 
> Prior to seeing his Natural / Custom Gamma settings I would always default to Bright Cinema, Gamma 1 or 2, HDR 1, and Iris between 0-5 --- but after trying his settings I like his much better.
> 
> I have a 110" 2.35 screen and using Oppo 203 for UHD HDR. Room is light controlled and almost pitch black.
> 
> I'd like to find a good Cinema or Dig Cin setting but just not seeing how.




I think that those settings are very good. I am still contemplating using them. I just find digital cinema with hdr 1 sufficient and not too dark. I had to get used to seeing HDR. SDR is overall brighter, but HDR is much more dynamic, and the shadows and blacks are much better. I feel that you need an adjustment period from viewing years of 1080p SDR bt.709 colorspace. HDR is not really about overall image brightness. It is about a much larger contrast range.

What I do is if I think a scene is too dark on the projector I play the same scene on my LG OLED. I always find that the scene is not any brighter on the LG. The scene is supposed to be dark! Now watch the scene in SDR it is brighter but the shadow details you get with HDR are gone and that sucks.

All this being said. The natural setting with the customized gamma settings provide much brighter colors, and that is most certainly due to the nearly doubled light output compared to digital cinema mode. That is much more like my OLED. The downside to digital cinema mode is less color vibrancy. 

That is why I have not ruled out the natural mode.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Smarty-pants

SALadder22FF said:


> HMM so which is it?


He's trying to give the installer the benefit of the doubt. I'm not. It can be done, but takes time and effort.
I've never actually tried calibrating a no-border screen. I'm sure it's not easy,
and maybe there might need to be just an ever so slight bit of overscan (like 1%),
but using keystone is kind of laughable to me, for a paid professional install.


----------



## bluer101

Just got thru watching Revenant on bluray. Once our eyes get adjusted to the dark and picture it is really great over our old w1070.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Smarty-pants said:


> maybe there might need to be just an ever so slight bit of overscan (like 1%),


This is what I actually meant. 


> but using keystone is kind of laughable to me, for a paid professional install.


100%


----------



## Vaggeto

Alright... I have been trying to avoid asking questions that are likely already addressed throughout this thread, but I'm now at that point even after reading probably a majority of posts here. I'm typically extremely tech savy and yet I'm really struggling to feel confident in my setup and use of this projector. This really makes me believe a good wiki style 1st post with a lot more information and instruction on setup and use would be extremely helpful for this specific projector. There seem to be quite a few known quirks and possible advise the others are only going to find if they are lucky enough to find the random posts that include it.

Overall, I'm trying to identify which settings are best. I ran through the basic Avia style calibration for brightness/contract/Saturation/Hue and most settings were near perfect all at the defaults of 50 especially the Saturation/Hue. But then I tried some other settings based on a recommendation here with some much more wild RGBCMY colors and the colors were different, but I thought it looked good and again the Saturation/Hue calibrations were still correct. Overall that makes me really wonder how much more I need to look into learning about real calibration myself or having a professional do it.

The brings me to another question... there seems to be many different uses of the various color modes. (Movies/games, ambient light changes, 3D, and also HDR). What I'm really struggling with his how to calibrate for these other modes like HDR and 3D. Are there good known methods to do this and would a calibrator typically be expected to do for all modes including HDR?

For HDR, I have yet to get the projector to tell me in info that it was receiving anything other that SDR, so even though I'm watching UHD Blu-Rays through the Xbox One S or other UHD content from the FireTV, (My understanding is the FireTV isn't capable at this time of sending over HDR and the Xbox One S should be, but mine doesn't show my display as being capable for HDR). I can't tell if the projector is receiving what it needs to so that when I do force HDR modes, they are accurately portraying with the content creators wanted. For example one the UHD Blu-Ray Martian, when I force HDR 1 or 2, the colors themselves drastically change much like others have posted in screenshots here and although it might not look bad, I can't believe both versions of what I'm seeing are true to the original intent.

I'm rambling quite a bit here but just trying to get a confident grip that I'm watching movies looking their best. I have relatively limited time for tweaking and it's quite frustrating to try and watch an HDR movie for the 1st couple of times only to sit and tinker with settings for a couple of hours instead of watching.

Any broad advice?


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> ......Now watch the scene in SDR it is brighter *but the shadow details you get with HDR are gone* and that sucks......



This is not the experience I recall with HDR vs SDR on the Sony 365ES, so
I'm sure it's more of a projector capability issue than a format issue.


----------



## AdamAttewell

spirithockey79 said:


> Is your picture as bright as the Natural mode with custom gamma used by the individual you responded to? Reason I ask is I've tried his settings and I've also tried Dig Cin, HDR 1, Super White ON, gamma 0 and Iris at 0 and that picture is no where near as bright as his with Natural mode. I've tried gamma 1 & 2 and still not that great of an HDR picture.
> 
> Prior to seeing his Natural / Custom Gamma settings I would always default to Bright Cinema, Gamma 1 or 2, HDR 1, and Iris between 0-5 --- but after trying his settings I like his much better.
> 
> I have a 110" 2.35 screen and using Oppo 203 for UHD HDR. Room is light controlled and almost pitch black.
> 
> I'd like to find a good Cinema or Dig Cin setting but just not seeing how.


Can you give me the link to the post for those settings? Would like to try them myself.

Much appreciated


----------



## colt9987

I am having an issue with my 5040ub shutting off on it's own about every hour. It seems as if it is on a sleep timer or something, but I have checked all of the projector settings, avr settings, and htpc settings, and there are no sleep timers activated. I just received the projector a few days ago, but I believe the issue started after I did the 1.08/1.04 firmware update. Has anyone else had this issue? If so, how did you fix it? Thanks!


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> I think that those settings are very good. I am still contemplating using them. I just find digital cinema with hdr 1 sufficient and not too dark. I had to get used to seeing HDR. SDR is overall brighter, but HDR is much more dynamic, and the shadows and blacks are much better. I feel that you need an adjustment period from viewing years of 1080p SDR bt.709 colorspace. HDR is not really about overall image brightness. It is about a much larger contrast range.
> 
> What I do is if I think a scene is too dark on the projector I play the same scene on my LG OLED. I always find that the scene is not any brighter on the LG. The scene is supposed to be dark! Now watch the scene in SDR it is brighter but the shadow details you get with HDR are gone and that sucks.
> 
> All this being said. The natural setting with the customized gamma settings provide much brighter colors, and that is most certainly due to the nearly doubled light output compared to digital cinema mode. That is much more like my OLED. The downside to digital cinema mode is less color vibrancy.
> 
> That is why I have not ruled out the natural mode.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Gotcha, thanks. If you end up tweaking either of the P3 modes to where you think the brightness is improved quite a bit I'd be interested in trying those settings.


----------



## spirithockey79

AdamAttewell said:


> Can you give me the link to the post for those settings? Would like to try them myself.
> 
> Much appreciated


Sure. Here's one post that shows his main settings: 4719

Here's the one that has his custom gamma settings: 4733


----------



## dholmes54

carp said:


> I got the Oppo 203 today. I set it up in the back of the room so that the short HDMI cord that Oppo includes could be hooked up straight to the projector and then I used a longer cord I had to run the audio out to my AVR. I want to make sure that any issues I might have would not be because of a HDMI cord that is too long.
> 
> I put in the 4K Miss Peregrin's Home for Peculiar Children because I have read that it is one of the best looking 4K disks available. It looked good. Next I tried out the Blu Ray of the same movie. Looks the same to me.
> 
> Surely I must be missing a setting.
> 
> Here is what my projector says:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I notice that the frame interpolation option is greyed out. Not that I use it, I hate it but it seems like it's only not available on 1080i sources so just wondering..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, 4K enhancement is greyed out too. Not sure if that means anything.


That's what my 6040 shows when watching std blu-rays,the reviews on uhd blu-ray makes me want to wait,seems std gets a better pq than uhd a lot of the time,did you figure out what's wrong with yours?


----------



## chiltonj

This is why I wish you could view output settings on the projector info acreen. 

The first picture is with my AVR set to directly pass through the 1080 DirectTV signal with Epson 4K enhancement ON. Take note of the CBS logo in top right. 

The second picture is with my AVR set to upscale the signal to 4K. The logo is positioned correctly. Not sure what to make of this. 



















Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## HarleyRider

*I feel clueless and need some guidance*

I've had numerous pj's over the years, but this 4k/HDR stuff is very foreign to me. I'm considering the 5040ub and am really confused as to what it can and can't do. I've tried to read through as many posts as I could, but many seem to contradict one another to the point where my head is spinning. I know this is not a true native 4k pj and I understand the part ok and what the pixel shifting does and doesn't do. My confusion is around the HDR support. I look at the specs and descriptions on Epson's website and it suggests the wired version can display HDR content. But then I see several posts saying it can't because of some 10Gbps chipset limitation, but the wireless version WILL fully support HDR and 16Gbps transfer speed. But then I read something about the wireless 5040ube that certain type of content still needs a hard-wired connection because the wireless connection DOESN'T have the bandwidth, hence my total confusion at this point.

Could some kind soul please boil it down for me? I'm planning to pair the 5040ub with the Panny UB900. What will this allow me to do/see with regard to 4K UHD Blurays and Netflix 4K streaming, specifically as it relates to HDR? Thanks in advance and sorry if this has already been answered somewhere else.


----------



## aaranddeeman

HarleyRider said:


> I've had numerous pj's over the years, but this 4k/HDR stuff is very foreign to me. I'm considering the 5040ub and am really confused as to what it can and can't do. I've tried to read through as many posts as I could, but many seem to contradict one another to the point where my head is spinning. I know this is not a true native 4k pj and I understand the part ok and what the pixel shifting does and doesn't do. My confusion is around the HDR support. I look at the specs and descriptions on Epson's website and it suggests the wired version can display HDR content. But then I see several posts saying it can't because of some 10Gbps chipset limitation, but the wireless version WILL fully support HDR and 16Gbps transfer speed. But then I read something about the wireless 5040ube that certain type of content still needs a hard-wired connection because the wireless connection DOESN'T have the bandwidth, hence my total confusion at this point.
> 
> Could some kind soul please boil it down for me? I'm planning to pair the 5040ub with the Panny UB900. What will this allow me to do/see with regard to 4K UHD Blurays and Netflix 4K streaming, specifically as it relates to HDR? Thanks in advance and sorry if this has already been answered somewhere else.


HDR looks good, but it will not be as bright as the TVs do. This is with every other projector currently in the market. It had to do with the lumens and not GBPs.
If your viewing is only UHD BD and streaming, 10.2GBPs is more than enough. Note that UHDs are mastered in 4:2:0 10Bit.
Wireless will give you some extra room in bandwidth, but is still not 18GBPs.


----------



## kaotikr1

carp said:


> I got the Oppo 203 today. I set it up in the back of the room so that the short HDMI cord that Oppo includes could be hooked up straight to the projector and then I used a longer cord I had to run the audio out to my AVR. I want to make sure that any issues I might have would not be because of a HDMI cord that is too long.
> 
> 
> 
> I put in the 4K Miss Peregrin's Home for Peculiar Children because I have read that it is one of the best looking 4K disks available. It looked good. Next I tried out the Blu Ray of the same movie. Looks the same to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Surely I must be missing a setting.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what my projector says:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I notice that the frame interpolation option is greyed out. Not that I use it, I hate it but it seems like it's only not available on 1080i sources so just wondering..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, 4K enhancement is greyed out too. Not sure if that means anything.




Unless I am missing something shouldn't it say BT2020 instead of 709 if your using the 4K disc?


----------



## carp

kaotikr1 said:


> Unless I am missing something shouldn't it say BT2020 instead of 709 if your using the 4K disc?


I posted on the Oppo 203 thread, they thought I was using the blu ray too, but I'm not. I tried it again today to be sure. Here is a shot of the output of the oppo on the left and the epson on the right. 

What am I doing wrong?


----------



## kaotikr1

carp said:


> I posted on the Oppo 203 thread, they thought I was using the blu ray too, but I'm not. I tried it again today to be sure. Here is a shot of the output of the oppo on the left and the epson on the right.
> 
> What am I doing wrong?


Yes that is incorrect, you need to go into the setting of the OPPO and turn HDR from ON or Auto to Strip Metadata. Give that a shot and then post your info screens again.


----------



## carp

My options are auto, on, or off. When I switch to auto or off I get this, so no longer BD output I assume?





But the picture is very washed out. Can't tell if it's better or worse right now. I have the latest firmware update from the Oppo, which I thought was supposed to have the strip metadata option, but maybe not.

Try one of the HDR modes on the Epson?


----------



## kaotikr1

This is what I see on my 203.


----------



## Oledurt

kaotikr1 said:


> This is what I see on my 203.




change it to on


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

chiltonj said:


> This is why I wish you could view output settings on the projector info acreen.
> 
> The first picture is with my AVR set to directly pass through the 1080 DirectTV signal with Epson 4K enhancement ON. Take note of the CBS logo in top right.
> 
> The second picture is with my AVR set to upscale the signal to 4K. The logo is positioned correctly. Not sure what to make of this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



Your projector may have overscan (or zoom) on in your 1080p settings and not when it's receiving a 2160p UHD signal.


----------



## chiltonj

Dave Harper said:


> Your projector may have overscan (or zoom) on in your 1080p settings and not when it's receiving a 2160p UHD signal.


Yep, duh. It was set to auto. Changed to off. Thanks much! 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

kaotikr1 said:


> This is what I see on my 203.


Ahh. Got it. I was using the HDR button on the remote, I didn't go into the menu. 

Ok... so I'm seeing what I should be now. I can now see a difference from Blu Ray. Still not as crazy clear as the youtube videos but it does look really good. Whew... I feel better than I did yesterday about buying this. 

Thanks so much for the help!


----------



## spirithockey79

I don' think I've seen a post on this yet, but does anyone know if 4k UHD discs are just inherently different from their bluray counterpart? Aside of course from being 4k and including HDR. Not even sure I'm asking this correctly. Here's why I'm asking:

I have the Epson 5040, Oppo 203, Denon x4200w, and PS3. For purposes of this post, the AVR is set to pass-through all video.

I tried watching Star Trek Into Darkness in 4K HDR on the Oppo and thought I would compare to the regular blu-ray. I started out with the bluray in the PS3 and then I could just toggle back and forth through my AVR (one HDMI from AVR to 5040). So here's what I did:

- tried 4k in Oppo with HDR ON. Used a Natural setting with customized gamma that were posted recently in this thread. Iris set to 0 and in Eco mode. Watched the initial scene where Jim & Bones are running through the red forest and jump on the cliff. With the 4k disc colors were washed out. When I try bright cinema it's pretty much the same. Picture is certainly watchable though. 

- switched to bluray on PS3 using my normal picture setting of digital cinema, Eco mode and Iris at 10. Colors looked much better and picture was obviously brighter. 

- then turned OFF HDR on the 4k disc and moved to my digital cinema setting that I used for the PS3 (thinking that should effectively match the SDR picture from the PS3). Nope. Picture was much dimmer than when looking at the normal bluray in the PS3. Anyone have any idea why??

- I also tried strip metadata in the Oppo to keep the BT2020 with SDR. With this I used my digital cinema setting and also tried a natural setting (not the one with customized gamma as that was setup for HDR, but used gamma 0 and Iris at 0). The picture really didn't look any different than watching HDR ON with the Natural customized gamma settings, and certainly not as bright or colorful as the normal bluray. I even changed the iris to 0 in digital cinema and couldn't really tell a difference.

- lastly I put the normal bluray in the Oppo to play it with HDR off. Used my normal digital cinema mode with Iris at 10. Picture looked the exact same as with the bluray in the PS3 (detail, colors, brightness)

So a couple of things here. 

1) a little disappointed that the bluray upscale for the Oppo doesn't look any better than the PS3. 
2) it seems the 4k disc with HDR OFF is not as bright as the normal bluray --- is this to be expected? I thought the only difference that made the picture much darker was using HDR.

At first I was concerned that my Epson wasn't working properly because I know that my Digital Cinema setting with Iris at 10 is pretty bright. But when I watched the 4k disc with HDR off (which I thought is what made the picture darker) even changing the Iris to 0 did not produce as bright a picture with the normal bluray.


----------



## carp

Ok, tired all the settings (8,10,12 bit and 4:2:2/4:4:4) out of curiosity, not because I have a clue what they all mean.  

I get no picture with 12 bit 4:4:4 and no picture with 10 bit 4:4:4.

However, I do get a picture with 12 bit 4:4:2 and 10 bit 4:4:2

Which setting should I use? My Epson says 12 bit 4:4:2 with both settings (both for 10 bit and 12 bit) as you can see below. I'm not sure I see a difference. 







I'm excited, there is definitely a difference from the blu ray. Not as much as the youtube clips but still it's a worthwhile upgrade IMO.


----------



## kaotikr1

Oledurt said:


> change it to on
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


For what reason?


----------



## carp

Oops, typos. I meat 4:2:2, not 4:4:2 since that's not a thing.


----------



## Waikis

colt9987 said:


> I am having an issue with my 5040ub shutting off on it's own about every hour. It seems as if it is on a sleep timer or something, but I have checked all of the projector settings, avr settings, and htpc settings, and there are no sleep timers activated. I just received the projector a few days ago, but I believe the issue started after I did the 1.08/1.04 firmware update. Has anyone else had this issue? If so, how did you fix it? Thanks!


Did any of the indicators light up when it shut down?


----------



## Dave Harper

spirithockey79 said:


> I don' think I've seen a post on this yet, but does anyone know if 4k UHD discs are just inherently different from their bluray counterpart? Aside of course from being 4k and including HDR. Not even sure I'm asking this correctly. Here's why I'm asking:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Epson 5040, Oppo 203, Denon x4200w, and PS3. For purposes of this post, the AVR is set to pass-through all video.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried watching Star Trek Into Darkness in 4K HDR on the Oppo and thought I would compare to the regular blu-ray. I started out with the bluray in the PS3 and then I could just toggle back and forth through my AVR (one HDMI from AVR to 5040). So here's what I did:
> 
> 
> 
> - tried 4k in Oppo with HDR ON. Used a Natural setting with customized gamma that were posted recently in this thread. Iris set to 0 and in Eco mode. Watched the initial scene where Jim & Bones are running through the red forest and jump on the cliff.  With the 4k disc colors were washed out. When I try bright cinema it's pretty much the same. Picture is certainly watchable though.
> 
> 
> 
> - switched to bluray on PS3 using my normal picture setting of digital cinema, Eco mode and Iris at 10. Colors looked much better and picture was obviously brighter.
> 
> 
> 
> - then turned OFF HDR on the 4k disc and moved to my digital cinema setting that I used for the PS3 (thinking that should effectively match the SDR picture from the PS3). Nope. Picture was much dimmer than when looking at the normal bluray in the PS3. Anyone have any idea why??
> 
> 
> 
> - I also tried strip metadata in the Oppo to keep the BT2020 with SDR. With this I used my digital cinema setting and also tried a natural setting (not the one with customized gamma as that was setup for HDR, but used gamma 0 and Iris at 0). The picture really didn't look any different than watching HDR ON with the Natural customized gamma settings, and certainly not as bright or colorful as the normal bluray. I even changed the iris to 0 in digital cinema and couldn't really tell a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> - lastly I put the normal bluray in the Oppo to play it with HDR off. Used my normal digital cinema mode with Iris at 10. Picture looked the exact same as with the bluray in the PS3 (detail, colors, brightness)
> 
> 
> 
> So a couple of things here.
> 
> 
> 
> 1) a little disappointed that the bluray upscale for the Oppo doesn't look any better than the PS3.
> 
> 2) it seems the 4k disc with HDR OFF is not as bright as the normal bluray --- is this to be expected? I thought the only difference that made the picture much darker was using HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> At first I was concerned that my Epson wasn't working properly because I know that my Digital Cinema setting with Iris at 10 is pretty bright. But when I watched the 4k disc with HDR off (which I thought is what made the picture darker) even changing the Iris to 0 did not produce as bright a picture with the normal bluray.



Just how are you "turning off HDR"? I think what you're seeing is because the video data on the disc is recorded there in HDR mode, so the dynamic range is there no matter what and it relies on remapping to SDR levels in the player to get the same upper and lower parameters of its standard Bluray counterpart. Could there be a setting that's not allowing it to remap properly, making it appear darker just as it would in HDR?

I don't have an Oppo and not 100% on my thoughts above, but just throwing it out there as a possibility?

Also, I thought I read when you select "Strip Metadata" in the Oppo that it kills both HDR and bt2020, at least for now until they update it via FW? Did they do that already?

Do you have an hdfury device in line by chance?



carp said:


> Ok, tired all the settings (8,10,12 bit and 4:2:2/4:4:4) out of curiosity, not because I have a clue what they all mean.
> 
> 
> 
> I get no picture with 12 bit 4:4:4 and no picture with 10 bit 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> 
> However, I do get a picture with 12 bit 4:4:2 and 10 bit 4:4:2
> 
> 
> 
> Which setting should I use? My Epson says 12 bit 4:4:2 with both settings (both for 10 bit and 12 bit) as you can see below. I'm not sure I see a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm excited, there is definitely a difference from the blu ray. Not as much as the youtube clips but still it's a worthwhile upgrade IMO.






carp said:


> Oops, typos. I meat 4:2:2, not 4:4:2 since that's not a thing.



UHD BRDs are essentially only mastered at 4:2:0 10bit, which is an invalid format for HDMI so the best format to send to a display should usually be 4:2:2 12 bit, but that could cause banding in some scenes like a bright sky scene, etc. in which case 10bit may be better. I set mine to 12 bit and haven't noticed any banding so far. I use a Panasonic UB900 player.


----------



## schmidtwi

HarleyRider said:


> I've had numerous pj's over the years, but this 4k/HDR stuff is very foreign to me. I'm considering the 5040ub and am really confused as to what it can and can't do. I've tried to read through as many posts as I could, but many seem to contradict one another to the point where my head is spinning. I know this is not a true native 4k pj and I understand the part ok and what the pixel shifting does and doesn't do. My confusion is around the HDR support. I look at the specs and descriptions on Epson's website and it suggests the wired version can display HDR content. But then I see several posts saying it can't because of some 10Gbps chipset limitation, but the wireless version WILL fully support HDR and 16Gbps transfer speed. But then I read something about the wireless 5040ube that certain type of content still needs a hard-wired connection because the wireless connection DOESN'T have the bandwidth, hence my total confusion at this point.
> 
> Could some kind soul please boil it down for me? I'm planning to pair the 5040ub with the Panny UB900. What will this allow me to do/see with regard to 4K UHD Blurays and Netflix 4K streaming, specifically as it relates to HDR? Thanks in advance and sorry if this has already been answered somewhere else.


 

I haven't had time to completely figure out all the features and settings on my 5040 yet, and I've had it since late Nov. I will say this projector throws a fantastic picture out of the box, and after calibrating with standard calibration patterns produces a crystal clear, bright, colorful and contrast-rich image without HDR. 4K streaming from Roku is stunning. I hope to have time to refine the image, and play with HDR more over the next few months. I appreciate all the input on this forum.

If you are on the fence, buy it. I guarantee you will not be disappointed.




.


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> Just how are you "turning off HDR"? I think what you're seeing is because the video data on the disc is recorded there in HDR mode, so the dynamic range is there no matter what and it relies on remapping to SDR levels in the player to get the same upper and lower parameters of its standard Bluray counterpart. Could there be a setting that's not allowing it to remap properly, making it appear darker just as it would in HDR?
> 
> I don't have an Oppo and not 100% on my thoughts above, but just throwing it out there as a possibility?
> 
> Also, I thought I read when you select "Strip Metadata" in the Oppo that it kills both HDR and bt2020, at least for now until they update it via FW? Did they do that already?
> 
> Do you have an hdfury device in line by chance?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UHD BRDs are essentially only mastered at 4:2:0 10bit, which is an invalid format for HDMI so the best format to send to a display should usually be 4:2:2 12 bit, but that could cause banding in some scenes like a bright sky scene, etc. in which case 10bit may be better. I set mine to 12 bit and haven't noticed any banding so far. I use a Panasonic UB900 player.


Dave,

The Oppo has the ability to turn OFF HDR as well as strip HDR and leave the bt2020 (as you mention in your post). I assumed when you turn OFF HDR, and not strip, that you would get the same exact picture as you would from the standard bluray. Based on what I'm seeing that doesn't look accurate.

It just seems so weird that I can't the same level of lamp output for a 4k disc that is not using HDR (if the Oppo OFF feature works correctly) as I can with the standard bluray. As I mentioned previously I've never had an issue with Digital Cinema not being bright enough for a movie OTHER THAN when trying HDR with 4k. Now it seems it's not bright enough for 4k with HDR OFF (again, if Oppo feature is working right) ---- or it's not intended to look like the standard bluray.

So, for people like me that already have a struggle to get a good HDR image on this pj, if that can't be worked out and there really isn't a noticeable upgrade in the 4k resolution as compared to the standard bluray discs - then I'm questioning why I should spend $500 on the Oppo OR buy 4k discs at all. I really hope I'm doing something wrong or not understanding something cause I'm just not impressed with 4K HDR ON or OFF at this point compared to standard bluray upscaling on this pj. 

Yes, Oppo did provide a FW update that fixed the strip feature. It was actually utilizing bt2020 without HDR before the update, it just didn't have the color mapping correct. This has been fixed according to Oppo and it does look pretty good. However, for the time being they suggest kicking up brightness in the Oppo for that feature by 8 or 9 clicks since their fix affected black levels negatively.


----------



## Dave Harper

Thanks for the new info. I haven't been reading the Oppo 203 threads for awhile now, ever since I got the Panny, HDFury Integral and Linker. Mainly for fear of buyer's remorse. 

So do you think it could be what I mentioned, that it's not remapping the HDR levels recorded on the disc to proper SDR levels? Maybe that's why they're saying to raise black levels with the new FW?

Have you asked this question in the Oppo 203 owners thread?


----------



## HarleyRider

aaranddeeman said:


> HDR looks good, but it will not be as bright as the TVs do. This is with every other projector currently in the market. It had to do with the lumens and not GBPs.
> If your viewing is only UHD BD and streaming, 10.2GBPs is more than enough. Note that UHDs are mastered in 4:2:0 10Bit.
> Wireless will give you some extra room in bandwidth, but is still not 18GBPs.





schmidtwi said:


> I haven't had time to completely figure out all the features and settings on my 5040 yet, and I've had it since late Nov. I will say this projector throws a fantastic picture out of the box, and after calibrating with standard calibration patterns produces a crystal clear, bright, colorful and contrast-rich image without HDR. 4K streaming from Roku is stunning. I hope to have time to refine the image, and play with HDR more over the next few months. I appreciate all the input on this forum.
> 
> If you are on the fence, buy it. I guarantee you will not be disappointed.


Guys, thanks for the feedback. From all that I've read, it sounds like this is the best option out there right now unless I'm willing to spend $10K+ for the 4K Sony, which I'm not. Think I'm going to order up one this week!


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> Thanks for the new info. I haven't been reading the Oppo 203 threads for awhile now, ever since I got the Panny, HDFury Integral and Linker. Mainly for fear of buyer's remorse.
> 
> So do you think it could be what I mentioned, that it's not remapping the HDR levels recorded on the disc to proper SDR levels? Maybe that's why they're saying to raise black levels with the new FW?
> 
> Have you asked this question in the Oppo 203 owners thread?




Not sure if it's a remapping issue since they've only mentioned remapping problems with the stripping HDR feature. I hope your thoughts are accurate though. I've yet to see anything from Oppo or 203 users bringing this up as an issue. The brightness suggestion from Oppo was only related to using the stripping HDR feature, not for turning it off completely.

Would certainly be interested in any feedback from those with a 5040 and the Oppo if they have the same experience. I haven't yet posted this in the Oppo thread but will.

Are you able to "turn off" HDR with your fury? If so I wonder if you would see the same thing. If you didn't I would guess this is an issue with the Oppo then. 

I appreciate the help.


----------



## covsound1

achanonier said:


> Yes you're right, everything i up to one's taste !
> HDR is much about compromises at the moment so everybody will do it's own !
> The most important is that people can enjoy HDR with this great PJ !


thanks to your input i have played with natural mode more looks like my second best mode on the pj. posted some settings for 8 bit 4k bt.709.i dont not post the pic to show i have clamped down the iris to -15.


----------



## Dave Harper

They look good, although it appears maybe whites are a little too peaked and blown out, but it could be just the pictures.


----------



## covsound1

Dave Harper said:


> They look good, although it appears maybe whites are a little too peaked and blown out, but it could be just the pictures.


yes it does look that way.Note 6 with hdr new feature for android,i notice some pics i took to fast to let hdr set looks blown out about 3 stops over


----------



## gnolivos

Multipass!


----------



## achanonier

spirithockey79 said:


> I don' think I've seen a post on this yet, but does anyone know if 4k UHD discs are just inherently different from their bluray counterpart? Aside of course from being 4k and including HDR. Not even sure I'm asking this correctly. Here's why I'm asking:
> 
> I have the Epson 5040, Oppo 203, Denon x4200w, and PS3. For purposes of this post, the AVR is set to pass-through all video.
> 
> I tried watching Star Trek Into Darkness in 4K HDR on the Oppo and thought I would compare to the regular blu-ray. I started out with the bluray in the PS3 and then I could just toggle back and forth through my AVR (one HDMI from AVR to 5040). So here's what I did:
> 
> - tried 4k in Oppo with HDR ON. Used a Natural setting with customized gamma that were posted recently in this thread. Iris set to 0 and in Eco mode. Watched the initial scene where Jim & Bones are running through the red forest and jump on the cliff. With the 4k disc colors were washed out. When I try bright cinema it's pretty much the same. Picture is certainly watchable though.
> 
> - switched to bluray on PS3 using my normal picture setting of digital cinema, Eco mode and Iris at 10. Colors looked much better and picture was obviously brighter.
> 
> - then turned OFF HDR on the 4k disc and moved to my digital cinema setting that I used for the PS3 (thinking that should effectively match the SDR picture from the PS3). Nope. Picture was much dimmer than when looking at the normal bluray in the PS3. Anyone have any idea why??
> 
> - I also tried strip metadata in the Oppo to keep the BT2020 with SDR. With this I used my digital cinema setting and also tried a natural setting (not the one with customized gamma as that was setup for HDR, but used gamma 0 and Iris at 0). The picture really didn't look any different than watching HDR ON with the Natural customized gamma settings, and certainly not as bright or colorful as the normal bluray. I even changed the iris to 0 in digital cinema and couldn't really tell a difference.
> 
> - lastly I put the normal bluray in the Oppo to play it with HDR off. Used my normal digital cinema mode with Iris at 10. Picture looked the exact same as with the bluray in the PS3 (detail, colors, brightness)
> 
> So a couple of things here.
> 
> 1) a little disappointed that the bluray upscale for the Oppo doesn't look any better than the PS3.
> 2) it seems the 4k disc with HDR OFF is not as bright as the normal bluray --- is this to be expected? I thought the only difference that made the picture much darker was using HDR.
> 
> At first I was concerned that my Epson wasn't working properly because I know that my Digital Cinema setting with Iris at 10 is pretty bright. But when I watched the 4k disc with HDR off (which I thought is what made the picture darker) even changing the Iris to 0 did not produce as bright a picture with the normal bluray.



Hi there !
One important thing : UHD HDR discs are mastered differently than their HD SDR counterparts.
Colors may be differents and overall brightness may be different. So don't expect them to look the same.

But there is no reason why it would be wached out in colors... That's weired...

Concerning brightness I don't know the Oppo but with my Pany when I let it do the HDR-->SDR conversion, the image is nearly as bright as the SDR blu ray...

Also concerning HDR remember that to get the extra headroom average brightness has to be lower than with SDR on a PJ because it can't obviously reach 1000 nit... How much darker is a matter of taste and settings...


----------



## covsound1

gnolivos said:


> Multipass!


slide show ( yeah baby! )


----------



## gandol67

I know this is a silly question, but (my wife is making me ask), and I know all you guys can feel me on this one. I will see a significant increase quality going from my current projector, a Panasonic PT-AR100u to the Epson correct? She won't take my word for it, she said how could it be any better.

Thanks


----------



## spirithockey79

achanonier said:


> Hi there !
> 
> One important thing : UHD HDR discs are mastered differently than their HD SDR counterparts.
> 
> Colors may be differents and overall brightness may be different. So don't expect them to look the same.
> 
> 
> 
> But there is no reason why it would be wached out in colors... That's weired...
> 
> 
> 
> Concerning brightness I don't know the Oppo but with my Pany when I let it do the HDR-->SDR conversion, the image is nearly as bright as the SDR blu ray...
> 
> 
> 
> Also concerning HDR remember that to get the extra headroom average brightness has to be lower than with SDR on a PJ because it can't obviously reach 1000 nit... How much darker is a matter of taste and settings...




Ok, thanks for the info. I've heard from another Oppo owner having the same issue, so maybe that's the problem. I'll let Oppo know and see if it's something they are addressing.


----------



## aaranddeeman

achanonier said:


> But there is no reason why it would be wached out in colors... That's weired...
> 
> Concerning brightness I don't know the Oppo but with my Pany when I let it do the HDR-->SDR conversion, the image is nearly as bright as the SDR blu ray...


If want to watch SDR from HDR disk, the conversion should be done at source (as you mentioned above) and not PJ.
If HDR is sent to PJ and you change the Dynamic range to SDR at PJ, there is washout of the image. It does not work properly.


----------



## aaranddeeman

gandol67 said:


> I know this is a silly question, but (my wife is making me ask), and I know all you guys can feel me on this one. I will see a significant increase quality going from my current projector, a Panasonic PT-AR100u to the Epson correct? She won't take my word for it, she said *how could it be any better*.
> 
> Thanks


Ask her the same question when she is shopping for a pair of shoes or dress or any such thing..


----------



## achanonier

aaranddeeman said:


> If want to watch SDR from HDR disk, the conversion should be done at source (as you mentioned above) and not PJ.
> If HDR is sent to PJ and you change the Dynamic range to SDR at PJ, there is washout of the image. It does not work properly.



Yes conversion at the source if you select SDR on the PJ with a HDR signal, it does not do any conversion it's just a wrong mapping of the colors thus the horrible wash out... That should not be allowed in the menus...


----------



## gandol67

aaranddeeman said:


> ask her the same question when she is shopping for a pair of shoes or dress or any such thing.. :d:d:d


true


----------



## Booker357

I tried 3d on my projector for the first time last night using these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I8TF76M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, and it was awesome, put in the 3d version of into Darkness on Blu-Ray and it looked very similar to watching a "Real 3D" movie in the theater


----------



## Oledurt

Two screenshots. Using calibrated Digital Cinema mode with Super White on. I am using the Strip Meta Data feature on the Oppo 203 to get BT2020 with SDR. My oppo has the new (experimental) Firmware that eliminates the red color shift on the strip meta data feature. Enjoy!

Digital Cinema HDR 1 Super White on










Digital Cinema Meta Data Stripped via Oppo. SDR with BT2020 Super White on.











Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

I just rewatched the Home Theater Geeks TWiT Podcast with Joe Kane again where he discusses SDR vs HDR, and why he likes SDR with bt2020 better than HDR (as many now do, especially with projectors).

He also goes into what I said about the UHD disc having only the HDR version on it, with the player responsible for remapping to SDR. I guess that's where I recall hearing it before. It's at about 38 minutes in if I recall. I stopped right after that because it was almost 2am and I was having the ole "narcoleptic whiplash" haha! 

https://twit.tv/shows/home-theater-geeks/episodes/302 

Click spoiler tag for reference posts:


Spoiler






spirithockey79 said:


> I don' think I've seen a post on this yet, but does anyone know if 4k UHD discs are just inherently different from their bluray counterpart? Aside of course from being 4k and including HDR. Not even sure I'm asking this correctly. Here's why I'm asking:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Epson 5040, Oppo 203, Denon x4200w, and PS3. For purposes of this post, the AVR is set to pass-through all video.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried watching Star Trek Into Darkness in 4K HDR on the Oppo and thought I would compare to the regular blu-ray. I started out with the bluray in the PS3 and then I could just toggle back and forth through my AVR (one HDMI from AVR to 5040). So here's what I did:
> 
> 
> 
> - tried 4k in Oppo with HDR ON. Used a Natural setting with customized gamma that were posted recently in this thread. Iris set to 0 and in Eco mode. Watched the initial scene where Jim & Bones are running through the red forest and jump on the cliff. With the 4k disc colors were washed out. When I try bright cinema it's pretty much the same. Picture is certainly watchable though.
> 
> 
> 
> - switched to bluray on PS3 using my normal picture setting of digital cinema, Eco mode and Iris at 10. Colors looked much better and picture was obviously brighter.
> 
> 
> 
> - then turned OFF HDR on the 4k disc and moved to my digital cinema setting that I used for the PS3 (thinking that should effectively match the SDR picture from the PS3). Nope. Picture was much dimmer than when looking at the normal bluray in the PS3. Anyone have any idea why??
> 
> 
> 
> - I also tried strip metadata in the Oppo to keep the BT2020 with SDR. With this I used my digital cinema setting and also tried a natural setting (not the one with customized gamma as that was setup for HDR, but used gamma 0 and Iris at 0). The picture really didn't look any different than watching HDR ON with the Natural customized gamma settings, and certainly not as bright or colorful as the normal bluray. I even changed the iris to 0 in digital cinema and couldn't really tell a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> - lastly I put the normal bluray in the Oppo to play it with HDR off. Used my normal digital cinema mode with Iris at 10. Picture looked the exact same as with the bluray in the PS3 (detail, colors, brightness)
> 
> 
> 
> So a couple of things here.
> 
> 
> 
> 1) a little disappointed that the bluray upscale for the Oppo doesn't look any better than the PS3.
> 
> 2) it seems the 4k disc with HDR OFF is not as bright as the normal bluray --- is this to be expected? I thought the only difference that made the picture much darker was using HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> At first I was concerned that my Epson wasn't working properly because I know that my Digital Cinema setting with Iris at 10 is pretty bright. But when I watched the 4k disc with HDR off (which I thought is what made the picture darker) even changing the Iris to 0 did not produce as bright a picture with the normal bluray.






Dave Harper said:


> Just how are you "turning off HDR"? I think what you're seeing is because the video data on the disc is recorded there in HDR mode, so the dynamic range is there no matter what and it relies on remapping to SDR levels in the player to get the same upper and lower parameters of its standard Bluray counterpart. Could there be a setting that's not allowing it to remap properly, making it appear darker just as it would in HDR?
> 
> I don't have an Oppo and not 100% on my thoughts above, but just throwing it out there as a possibility?
> 
> Also, I thought I read when you select "Strip Metadata" in the Oppo that it kills both HDR and bt2020, at least for now until they update it via FW? Did they do that already?
> 
> Do you have an hdfury device in line by chance?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UHD BRDs are essentially only mastered at 4:2:0 10bit, which is an invalid format for HDMI so the best format to send to a display should usually be 4:2:2 12 bit, but that could cause banding in some scenes like a bright sky scene, etc. in which case 10bit may be better. I set mine to 12 bit and haven't noticed any banding so far. I use a Panasonic UB900 player.






spirithockey79 said:


> Dave,
> 
> 
> 
> The Oppo has the ability to turn OFF HDR as well as strip HDR and leave the bt2020 (as you mention in your post). I assumed when you turn OFF HDR, and not strip, that you would get the same exact picture as you would from the standard bluray. Based on what I'm seeing that doesn't look accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> It just seems so weird that I can't the same level of lamp output for a 4k disc that is not using HDR (if the Oppo OFF feature works correctly) as I can with the standard bluray. As I mentioned previously I've never had an issue with Digital Cinema not being bright enough for a movie OTHER THAN when trying HDR with 4k. Now it seems it's not bright enough for 4k with HDR OFF (again, if Oppo feature is working right) ---- or it's not intended to look like the standard bluray.
> 
> 
> 
> So, for people like me that already have a struggle to get a good HDR image on this pj, if that can't be worked out and there really isn't a noticeable upgrade in the 4k resolution as compared to the standard bluray discs - then I'm questioning why I should spend $500 on the Oppo OR buy 4k discs at all. I really hope I'm doing something wrong or not understanding something cause I'm just not impressed with 4K HDR ON or OFF at this point compared to standard bluray upscaling on this pj.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Oppo did provide a FW update that fixed the strip feature. It was actually utilizing bt2020 without HDR before the update, it just didn't have the color mapping correct. This has been fixed according to Oppo and it does look pretty good. However, for the time being they suggest kicking up brightness in the Oppo for that feature by 8 or 9 clicks since their fix affected black levels negatively.






Dave Harper said:


> Thanks for the new info. I haven't been reading the Oppo 203 threads for awhile now, ever since I got the Panny, HDFury Integral and Linker. Mainly for fear of buyer's remorse.
> 
> So do you think it could be what I mentioned, that it's not remapping the HDR levels recorded on the disc to proper SDR levels? Maybe that's why they're saying to raise black levels with the new FW?
> 
> Have you asked this question in the Oppo 203 owners thread?






spirithockey79 said:


> Not sure if it's a remapping issue since they've only mentioned remapping problems with the stripping HDR feature. I hope your thoughts are accurate though. I've yet to see anything from Oppo or 203 users bringing this up as an issue. The brightness suggestion from Oppo was only related to using the stripping HDR feature, not for turning it off completely.
> 
> Would certainly be interested in any feedback from those with a 5040 and the Oppo if they have the same experience. I haven't yet posted this in the Oppo thread but will.
> 
> Are you able to "turn off" HDR with your fury? If so I wonder if you would see the same thing. If you didn't I would guess this is an issue with the Oppo then.
> 
> I appreciate the help.






achanonier said:


> Hi there !
> 
> One important thing : UHD HDR discs are mastered differently than their HD SDR counterparts.
> 
> Colors may be differents and overall brightness may be different. So don't expect them to look the same.
> 
> 
> 
> But there is no reason why it would be wached out in colors... That's weired...
> 
> 
> 
> Concerning brightness I don't know the Oppo but with my Pany when I let it do the HDR-->SDR conversion, the image is nearly as bright as the SDR blu ray...
> 
> 
> 
> Also concerning HDR remember that to get the extra headroom average brightness has to be lower than with SDR on a PJ because it can't obviously reach 1000 nit... How much darker is a matter of taste and settings...






spirithockey79 said:


> Ok, thanks for the info. I've heard from another Oppo owner having the same issue, so maybe that's the problem. I'll let Oppo know and see if it's something they are addressing.


----------



## spirithockey79

achanonier said:


> Yes conversion at the source if you select SDR on the PJ with a HDR signal, it does not do any conversion it's just a wrong mapping of the colors thus the horrible wash out... That should not be allowed in the menus...




Agreed. All of the comparisons I mentioned in my post where I was switching from HDR or SDR was done in the Oppo. The only changes I would make in the 5040 is when changing HDR from #2 to #1. 

I appreciate the comments about UHD authoring though as that seems like a reasonable explanation. The whole thing that started this for me is when I thought "I wonder what the picture would look like with HDR OFF & using a non-HDR picture setting". ( I say non-HDR cause it seems like most people prefer bright cinema or maybe natural mode with HDR due to brightness). I'm one of those cause Dig Cinema and Cinema just are too dim even at Iris set to zero. And with my setup I can pump out tons of FL (small room, short throw). Probably 45-50fl, so I have no issues using Eco with Dig Cinema at -10 to -20 Iris when not using HDR. 

Anyway, when I tried it on my Dig Cin setting I was surprised with how dim it was, even with iris set to 0. So when I checked the standard Blu-ray in my PS4 in THE SAME Dig Cin mode I was again surprised at how bright the picture was even with iris at -10. I then put the Bluray in the Oppo and it looked just like the picture from the PS4. 

This is what made me ask about UHD SDR in Rec709 vs Bluray. I just don't see a huge difference between a 4k disc and 1080p with 4k enhancement so was hoping the HDR would be worth it. If it's not, I'm not sure keeping the bt2020 with SDR is enough of a reason to keep the Oppo, or to buy 4k discs at all.


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> Two screenshots. Using calibrated Digital Cinema mode with Super White on. I am using the Strip Meta Data feature on the Oppo 203 to get BT2020 with SDR. My oppo has the new (experimental) Firmware that eliminates the red color shift on the strip meta data feature. Enjoy!
> 
> Digital Cinema HDR 1 Super White on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema Meta Data Stripped via Oppo. SDR with BT2020 Super White on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




You wouldn't by chance be willing to post the same picture of the standard Blu-ray in your Dig Cin mode would you? Also, maybe do a natural or bright cinema picture with HDR 1 ON? Pretty please?


----------



## Oledurt

spirithockey79 said:


> You wouldn't by chance be willing to post the same picture of the standard Blu-ray in your Dig Cin mode would you? Also, maybe do a natural or bright cinema picture with HDR 1 ON? Pretty please?




Ok here you go.

Bright Cinema HDR 1










Natural with custom gamma curve HDR 1










Digital Cinema mode Blu Ray REC 709.











Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## buda1844

*Early issues*

Hey everyone,
This is my first post on the forums! I've been lurking on this thread for a long time and decided to buy the projector around Black Friday. Unfortunately I've already run into a couple issues.

When walking into my room while the white Netflix logo loaded, I noticed some teeny tiny pink dots. Would never notice them if my door wasn't right by screen in that exact circumstance, but better safe than sorry. Turns out I had the fabled dust blobs. Epson was great and sent me a new projector.

To make things more complicated, the replacement has a very annoying buzzing sound when 4k enhancement is enabled. Note that this means I can't have anything send a 4K signal - it is not just for 1080p upscaling (although I know that is what 4K does anyways). It is definitely not the fan.

Luckily, I held on to the original project to compare it. No buzz, in fact I hear no difference. Epson has agreed to send another one, despite claiming some 4K Enhancement sound is expected. I'm very happy with their customer service, but I can't help but feel a little paranoid that I will forever be in this cycle of having to re-setup my theater room (mounting over and over is a PITA!).

Can anyone give me some peace by confirming their 5040 has no audible noise when 4K enhement is on?


P.S. I have zero complaints on picture or gaming performance!


----------



## ac388

Did a lot of reading above mostly regarding the setting for UHD bluray ? Any recommended setting for standard Bluray for the 5040 n Oppo 203 ? Since when I used the above 'Natural with custom gamma curve HDR 1' for UHD 4K, it looks good. But when switch to standrad Bluray, color/contrast/brightness don't seems right, even when HDR is set to off.

Appreciate if somebody point me to the post# if there were good recommendation. Thanks in advance.

P.S. Most important is which Color mode to use, since I already assign the above 'Natural' mode for UHD 4K.


----------



## achanonier

ac388 said:


> Did a lot of reading above mostly regarding the setting for UHD bluray ? Any recommended setting for standard Bluray for the 5040 n Oppo 203 ? Since when I used the above 'Natural with custom gamma curve HDR 1' for UHD 4K, it looks good. But when switch to standrad Bluray, color/contrast/brightness don't seems right, even when HDR is set to off.
> 
> Appreciate if somebody point me to the post# if there were good recommendation. Thanks in advance.
> 
> P.S. Most important is which Color mode to use, since I already assign the above 'Natural' mode for UHD 4K.



You can have sveral user memory using the same color mode.

For HDR I have a user memory with custom gamma curve, Natural mode, Super white on and HDR 1.
For SDR I have a user memory with gamma 0, Natural mode, Super white Off, SDR range.


----------



## bluer101

buda1844 said:


> Hey everyone,
> This is my first post on the forums! I've been lurking on this thread for a long time and decided to buy the projector around Black Friday. Unfortunately I've already run into a couple issues.
> 
> When walking into my room while the white Netflix logo loaded, I noticed some teeny tiny pink dots. Would never notice them if my door wasn't right by screen in that exact circumstance, but better safe than sorry. Turns out I had the fabled dust blobs. Epson was great and sent me a new projector.
> 
> To make things more complicated, the replacement has a very annoying buzzing sound when 4k enhancement is enabled. Note that this means I can't have anything send a 4K signal - it is not just for 1080p upscaling (although I know that is what 4K does anyways). It is definitely not the fan.
> 
> Luckily, I held on to the original project to compare it. No buzz, in fact I hear no difference. Epson has agreed to send another one, despite claiming some 4K Enhancement sound is expected. I'm very happy with their customer service, but I can't help but feel a little paranoid that I will forever be in this cycle of having to re-setup my theater room (mounting over and over is a PITA!).
> 
> Can anyone give me some peace by confirming their 5040 has no audible noise when 4K enhement is on?
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. I have zero complaints on picture or gaming performance!



Yes, slight high pitch.


----------



## dholmes54

Wonder why the fan stops running after you turn the Epson off,my old 6020 ran for about 30 seconds,is it because I'm using echo mode?


----------



## bluer101

dholmes54 said:


> Wonder why the fan stops running after you turn the Epson off,my old 6020 ran for about 30 seconds,is it because I'm using echo mode?


I don't know either, my old Benq ran after for about a minute.


----------



## buda1844

bluer101 said:


> Yes, slight high pitch.


Interesting, thanks for sharing!

Are you able to hear it over dialog in a movie?

Mine is drowned out by only very loud action; I can even hear it during intro music.


----------



## bluer101

buda1844 said:


> Interesting, thanks for sharing!
> 
> Are you able to hear it over dialog in a movie?
> 
> Mine is drowned out by only very loud action; I can even hear it during intro music.


Very faint if it's a quiet scene. My PJ is mounted right above head at 7 1/2 feet from floor. It is talked about here in this thread about the whine.


----------



## dholmes54

I never understood why projector manufacters don't add a battery or capacitor to run the fan if the power goes out in your home,I've got a a APC battery backup,but as expensive as projectors are they should have them.


----------



## bluer101

dholmes54 said:


> I never understood why projector manufacters don't add a battery or capacitor to run the fan if the power goes out in your home,I've got a a APC battery backup,but as expensive as projectors are they should have them.


Mine is plugged into a battery backup.


----------



## talon95

dholmes54 said:


> I never understood why projector manufacters don't add a battery or capacitor to run the fan if the power goes out in your home,I've got a a APC battery backup,but as expensive as projectors are they should have them.


It doesn't matter if the projector is turned off without the fan staying on. The only reason the fan continues to run on a lot of them is so you can turn it back on sooner. So if the power does kick it off, don't turn it back on immediately.


----------



## gnolivos

DEEPWATER HORIZON (bluray) is a decent movie that visually rivals UHD quality on this projector imho.


----------



## bluer101

Just got some 3D glasses and wondering why you can use 4K enhancement.


----------



## Seegs108

FYI for anyone on the fence about getting an Epson 5040 or the RS400. I hear AVScience is running a special right now where the RS400 can be bought for the same price as a 5040. Their remaining stock of brand new in box RS400/RS500/RS600's are being sold at clearance pricing. Hundreds cheaper than pre-order/CEDIA special pricing. Pick them up soon before they sell out. If you aren't a gamer, you'll still be getting the same image quality as the new JVC models. The low lag gaming mode in my opinion would be the only reason to go with a new model before the 2016 models sell out. Get in contact with Mike Garrett or Craig Peer if you're interested. They post often on the forum.


----------



## ac388

achanonier said:


> You can have sveral user memory using the same color mode.
> 
> For HDR I have a user memory with custom gamma curve, Natural mode, Super white on and HDR 1.
> For SDR I have a user memory with gamma 0, Natural mode, Super white Off, SDR range.


Thanks. I did try it last night n it works. Rather than confusing myself with 2 'Natural', I did rename them 'UHD 4K' n 'Bluray'. However, if I have selected HDR1 on 'UHD 4K', HDR will stuck there even when I switch to 'Bluray', n the picture color will be out of wack. So, I have to go into the menu to change it to 'SDR'.

Also, when I did the color mode switch, I have to hit 'Memory' on remote everytime n then go several steps until the 'Load the memory' n select either 'UHD 4K' or Bluray'. Is there a shortcut to do that ?
Since if I just hit 'Color mode' on remote, it will only show 'Natural', even after I rename it.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ht guy

elmalloc said:


> Well ,that makes the decision a lot more interesting.
> 
> I have a Sim2 HT380 with lens and it throws a beautiful picture. It's about 8 years old now, I have to imagine the Epson 5040/6040 is better, but I'm not sure if I should make the switch.
> 
> Do you think the BD203 will squeeze as well as the projector would?
> 
> Thanks!
> ELmO





ht guy said:


> My PJ (Panasonic ae2000) was 9 years old and, based on what I've seen, the upgrade will be major. 4k input, amazing faux-k output, upscaling, 3D and HDR.
> 
> As for the vertical stretch, this is my first Epson, but my 3rd Oppo. Based on my knowledge of and experience with Oppo, I definitely trust them to get it right.
> 
> Don't know if someone here will weigh in before my PJ is installed (scheduled for 1/9.) Either way, I'll post my A lens impressions.
> 
> John


Hey ELmO, I said I'd report back and here I am (for the two of us who are interested in using an Anamorphic lens with the 5040.)

First, can't imagine being much happier with the image quality. As suspected, the difference with my 9 y/o Panny AE2000 and the 5040 is HUGE!

After checking with Panamporph, I learned that the current lens/transport mounting plate doesn't have a way to mount for the older motor transport, so my installed would have to drill the old plate to work with the 5040.

I was a bit concerned, but it really came off without a hitch. The BD203 throws on the vertical stretch and the lens does the rest.

And it looks freakin' great!!

While I'm not a pixel peeper, I am planning on doing some comparisons of zoom vs. lens. But unless the zoom method kills using the lens, I'm sure I'll stick with the lens.


----------



## bluer101

gnolivos said:


> DEEPWATER HORIZON (bluray) is a decent movie that visually rivals UHD quality on this projector imho.


That looks great for bluray. I did not get out to Best Buy to get it tonight.


----------



## MaximTre

aaranddeeman said:


> In Cinema and Digital Cinema, the Green and blue primaries and magenta secondary are bit off from the target (DCI-P3)
> Natural if pretty close (REC.709) with less deviation (IIRC).
> May be that is what you may be seeing.


Do you have any suggestion for HDR digital cinema color calibration?
I'd really like to fix Digital Cinema colors, but I don't have any tool.


----------



## aaranddeeman

MaximTre said:


> Do you have any suggestion for HDR digital cinema color calibration?
> I'd really like to fix Digital Cinema colors, but I don't have any tool.


The default colors are not really bad and visually will make subtle difference.
I am still in the process of fine tuning the settings. I will share once ready.


----------



## TheronB

Do the JVCs have the pixel shifting noise like the Epson and DLP models seen to have?


----------



## achanonier

TheronB said:


> Do the JVCs have the pixel shifting noise like the Epson and DLP models seen to have?


Yes they also complain about it...
Look for "Whining noise"...


----------



## achanonier

ac388 said:


> Thanks. I did try it last night n it works. Rather than confusing myself with 2 'Natural', I did rename them 'UHD 4K' n 'Bluray'. However, if I have selected HDR1 on 'UHD 4K', HDR will stuck there even when I switch to 'Bluray', n the picture color will be out of wack. So, I have to go into the menu to change it to 'SDR'.
> 
> Also, when I did the color mode switch, I have to hit 'Memory' on remote everytime n then go several steps until the 'Load the memory' n select either 'UHD 4K' or Bluray'. Is there a shortcut to do that ?
> Since if I just hit 'Color mode' on remote, it will only show 'Natural', even after I rename it.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I guess ther is some confusion here.
When you hit Color Mode it just change the color mode in the current user memory.
The right way is to store your settings in the user memory and change it via the memory button.

It sure needs a few clics...

I'm using a Harmony remote, and I have everything automated : preset change, HDR mode change, and so on...


----------



## RyanChristopher

Long time reader of the page here. Just took delivery of a 5040UB, upgraded from a BenQ w1070. Was looking forward to having it all setup tonight after work, but due to the forecast fo 18-31 inches of snow we are about to get here in Wyoming my OPPO 203 and 4K HDMI cables got delayed until tomorrow. Glad to be apart of the Owners thread.


----------



## Dave Harper

RyanChristopher said:


> Long time reader of the page here. Just took delivery of a 5040UB, upgraded from a BenQ w1070. Was looking forward to having it all setup tonight after work, but due to the forecast fo 18-31 inches of snow we are about to get here in Wyoming my OPPO 203 and 4K HDMI cables got delayed until tomorrow. Glad to be apart of the Owners thread.



You're not "apart" of (or from) it, you are certainly "a part" of it, and I'm sure they're glad to have you! 

I would still hook that puppy up and run some cable/sat/ota or streaming app through it, so you can at least see how nice it is with a movie or hdtv show or something. It certainly gives you something fun to do while you're holed up in your house by snow drifts!


----------



## gene4ht

ht guy said:


> First, can't imagine being much happier with the image quality. As suspected, the difference with my 9 y/o Panny AE2000 and the 5040 is HUGE!


As I had also recently posted, in terms of image quality...sharpness, color saturation, contrast, blacks, and brightness...upgrading from my Panny AE3000 to the 5040 mirror your experience exactly!


----------



## gene4ht

Dave Harper said:


> You're not "apart" of (or from) it, you are certainly "a part" of it, and I'm sure they're glad to have you


LOL!!! Nor will he likely part with it!!!


----------



## AdamAttewell

Can anyone recommend 3D glasses for these Epson's? I have some Sony's that work but I am getting a little crosstalk even with the 3D glasses brightness on low.

I have a pair of the Epson's on the way to see if they make it any better.


----------



## RyanChristopher

Dave Harper said:


> You're not "apart" of (or from) it, you are certainly "a part" of it, and I'm sure they're glad to have you!
> 
> I would still hook that puppy up and run some cable/sat/ota or streaming app through it, so you can at least see how nice it is with a movie or hdtv show or something. It certainly gives you something fun to do while you're holed up in your house by snow drifts!


Haha. Always was preferred math over english class. I ceiling mounted it hooked up the PS4 and ran a blue ray just for fun. Unfortunately I'm rewrireing my 7.2.2 atoms setup as well so no sound until those cables arrive with the oppo and new HDMIs. I went with a Monoprice Luxe Series CL3, 30ft HDMI cable. I'll report back on the reliability and 4K ability once it is all hooked up. 

Excited to try our 4K HDR and the custom gamma curve.


----------



## dvdwilly3

AdamAttewell said:


> Can anyone recommend 3D glasses for these Epson's? I have some Sony's that work but I am getting a little crosstalk even with the 3D glasses brightness on low.
> 
> I have a pair of the Epson's on the way to see if they make it any better.


Try these available thru Amazon...they work like a champ and are 1/2 the price of the Epson glasses. They fit fairly comfortably over prescription glasses.

*EPSON-Compatible 3ACTIVE® 3D Glasses. Rechargeable. TWIN-PACK*


----------



## bluer101

AdamAttewell said:


> Can anyone recommend 3D glasses for these Epson's? I have some Sony's that work but I am getting a little crosstalk even with the 3D glasses brightness on low.
> 
> I have a pair of the Epson's on the way to see if they make it any better.


I got 4 pairs of the Samsung 5100 3D glasses off eBay, all 4 $35. There is some crosstalk every now and then but not bad. I want to try the Epson ones but the price is not right. 

I have the 3active ones for my Benq and they were ok.

Plus I like the replaceable battery in the Samsung over chargeable ones. You can just pop in a battery without the worry of having glasses charged.


----------



## gene4ht

AdamAttewell said:


> Can anyone recommend 3D glasses for these Epson's? I have some Sony's that work but I am getting a little crosstalk even with the 3D glasses brightness on low.
> 
> I have a pair of the Epson's on the way to see if they make it any better.


 @Stecchino provided this excellent review last month...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html


----------



## ac388

achanonier said:


> I guess ther is some confusion here.
> When you hit Color Mode it just change the color mode in the current user memory.
> The right way is to store your settings in the user memory and change it via the memory button.
> 
> It sure needs a few clics...
> 
> I'm using a Harmony remote, and I have everything automated : preset change, HDR mode change, and so on...


Tks. Is your 'User memory' same as 'Memory' button on the Epson remote ?


----------



## achanonier

ac388 said:


> Tks. Is your 'User memory' same as 'Memory' button on the Epson remote ?



Yes


----------



## achanonier

Was wathcing Star Trek Into Darkness yesterday in 4K HDR, I'm still amazed by the pciture quality !
I love ths PJ ! 

And I could not resist taking screenshots..


----------



## elmalloc

Great, what size screen are you using there Arch? Sorry if I asked in a PM!

I'm coming from a 14.5 ft wide 2.35 screen, I'll definitely try the 5040 to see how it performs against my Sim2. I don't think my HT380 coudl have gotten better for color, sharpness, film like quality/etc. I know the slightly smaller screens can look quite detailed/good at 1080p.

I always thought my next jump would be true 4K.


----------



## achanonier

elmalloc said:


> Great, what size screen are you using there Arch? Sorry if I asked in a PM!
> 
> I'm coming from a 14.5 ft wide 2.35 screen, I'll definitely try the 5040 to see how it performs against my Sim2. I don't think my HT380 coudl have gotten better for color, sharpness, film like quality/etc. I know the slightly smaller screens can look quite detailed/good at 1080p.
> 
> I always thought my next jump would be true 4K.


It's 2m wide ! Not very big actually but I sit pretty close at about 3m.


----------



## RyanChristopher

What is everyone's preferred method or device for watching 4K streaming apps like Netflix on their projector?


----------



## siuengr

RyanChristopher said:


> What is everyone's preferred method or device for watching 4K streaming apps like Netflix on their projector?


I'm using the Roku Premiere+. It works well, but right now you can only get HDR from Amazon, and it has severe banding. I don't know if it is my setup, but it says BT2020 HDR2, but it is only 8bit. I'm hoping there will be some updates for Netflix and Youtube. The NVidia shield may work a little better, but I'm waiting for some reviews of the new one.


----------



## Evan201

Hey guys, 

Just pulled the trigger on the Epson 5040ub and holy smokes its a YUGE step up from my Epson EX70 720p projector I bought in 2011. 

Loaded it up with Mad Max on Blu Ray playing from an X Box One. I'm currently using a 105" Elite Screen Cinegrey 5d in my living room to help with lights on viewing. 
I have not changed any out of the box settings yet. I was using Dynamic mode on Mad Max and will probably be using Bright Cinema for HDTV viewing. 
The Ninja Turtles movie streamed through Amazon Video off of the Xbox One looked phenomenal as well. 

I was carefully considering my options before purchasing and I can now say that I am thrilled that I didn't wait until summer for the new DLP's coming out. 

THIS THING IS JUST INSANE!!!! I love it and so does the wife!


----------



## NoTechi

RyanChristopher said:


> What is everyone's preferred method or device for watching 4K streaming apps like Netflix on their projector?


Xbox One S (set to 4k HDR) --> HDFury Linker scaling down to 1080p HDR --> Epson

update----
Just to add with this I am getting following with Netflix:
1920x1080
60Hz
10bit 4.4.4
BT.2020 HDR2

NoTechi


----------



## seplant

siuengr said:


> I'm using the Roku Premiere+. It works well, but right now you can only get HDR from Amazon, and it has severe banding. I don't know if it is my setup, but it says BT2020 HDR2, but it is only 8bit. I'm hoping there will be some updates for Netflix and Youtube. The NVidia shield may work a little better, but I'm waiting for some reviews of the new one.


There are posts earlier in this thread from people saying they are getting HDR with Netflix using the Roku Ultra/Premiere +. Can anyone confirm this?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## siuengr

seplant said:


> There are posts earlier in this thread from people saying they are getting HDR with Netflix using the Roku Ultra/Premiere +. Can anyone confirm this?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


I haven't been able to get it to work. I think you had to power off the Roku, then HDR might work on netflix after a restart, but maybe not. That is why I was just waiting for a fix. I'm not sure is is passing through my Marantz 7010 correctly either, because is should be more than 8 bit.


----------



## elmalloc

Evan201 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on the Epson 5040ub and holy smokes its a YUGE step up from my Epson EX70 720p projector I bought in 2011.
> 
> Loaded it up with Mad Max on Blu Ray playing from an X Box One. I'm currently using a 105" Elite Screen Cinegrey 5d in my living room to help with lights on viewing.
> I have not changed any out of the box settings yet. I was using Dynamic mode on Mad Max and will probably be using Bright Cinema for HDTV viewing.
> The Ninja Turtles movie streamed through Amazon Video off of the Xbox One looked phenomenal as well.
> 
> I was carefully considering my options before purchasing and I can now say that I am thrilled that I didn't wait until summer for the new DLP's coming out.
> 
> THIS THING IS JUST INSANE!!!! I love it and so does the wife!


Welcome to AVSForum! That is quite a long time to go between upgrading Projectors, you should have seen a very large difference between 720p IMO.

My PJ is 8 years old and discontinued too, but I wonder if I'll see as large a jump as you guys are. I need the pixels with a large screen, most projectors look pretty good at smaller sizes in my experience. It's when we force them to movie theater sizes that we begin to see their weaknesses magnified. I am eager to get one and see what it does in my setup.


----------



## Evan201

elmalloc said:


> Welcome to AVSForum! That is quite a long time to go between upgrading Projectors, you should have seen a very large difference between 720p IMO.
> 
> My PJ is 8 years old and discontinued too, but I wonder if I'll see as large a jump as you guys are. I need the pixels with a large screen, most projectors look pretty good at smaller sizes in my experience. It's when we force them to movie theater sizes that we begin to see their weaknesses magnified. I am eager to get one and see what it does in my setup.


A massive jump in quality from the multi-media EX70 for sure! Im thrilled! What size screen are you running? Light controlled room? 
As of today, being a one day owner, I doubt I'll even be interested in going to the UHD disks. The standard blu rays look so damn good with this thing that I'm not convinced its worth the added money in $30 disks and a new UHD Philips player.


----------



## welldun

RyanChristopher said:


> What is everyone's preferred method or device for watching 4K streaming apps like Netflix on their projector?


currently I'm using the Chromecast Ultra which is 4k but only does 60pfs so no HDR. Apparently the projector needs 24fps for the HDR to work with it. Either way, the picture looks great in 4k SDR with all of the material that I've tested from Netflix and Youtube.


----------



## RyanChristopher

So just got everything set up and ready to go. Throw in my first UHD Blu-Ray (Ghostbusters) and sure enough there is a clump of dead pixels (not sure how many hard to tell with image enhancement on) in the center left third of the screen. Made sure it wasn't dust on the lens or screen. Put up a dead pixel test screen of all the colors and it's only showing up on red. From 11' feet away on a 120" screen it is supper distracting to see a black dot on people's faces every time they are framed left. So I can either try an exchange through Best Buy or go through Epson Warrenty. What would you guys recommend is the best approach to exchange this unit out for a better one?


----------



## TheronB

Best buy 

Epson can give you a refurb


----------



## rayians

Has anyone tried a different wireless LAN module other than the $99 Epson V12H418P12? There are so many other wireless LAN's out there, some less than 10% of that price, I can't imagine something else won't work.


----------



## carp

Sorry if it's been discussed and I missed it - has there been any talk of a firmware release to address the lens memory issue?


----------



## seplant

carp said:


> Sorry if it's been discussed and I missed it - has there been any talk of a firmware release to address the lens memory issue?


See post #4182. Works as designed. Just have to follow the steps described by Epson in that post. Of course, it would be nice if they had put that in the manual!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## airbag41

Just got the 5040ube. I am setting it up tonight! Quick question, anyone have a good link for the calibration settings or is the projector review version the best that is online.

Thanks


----------



## spirithockey79

I posted a few pages back about comparing a standard bluray movie on the 5040 to it's 4k HDR counterpart using an Oppo 203. Here are 3 pics that show what I was concerned with, from Star Trek Into Darkness.

Pic 1 - 4k disc in Oppo on HDR1, using custom gamma settings posted a few pages back with Natural color mode, super white ON, Iris 0, and Eco mode.

Pic 2 - 4k disc in Oppo on HDR1, digital cinema color mode, gamma 2, super white OFF, Iris 0, and Eco mode.

Pic 3 - standard bluray in PS4, digital cinema color mode, gamma 0, super white OFF, Iris 0, and Eco mode.

I keep reading that some people are able to get a nice HDR picture with a P3 color mode like digital cinema or cinema - I just don't see how. Whit Iris fully open, using high gamma, the pic is still pretty dark on HDR1. Also, the standard bluray is by far a brighter picture with more more saturated color. Is everyone seeing the same thing? I'll check the same scene for stripping HDR and using bt2020 in a bit.


----------



## RyanChristopher

TheronB said:


> Best buy
> 
> Epson can give you a refurb


Thanks taking it back this weekend. Closest Best Buy is 2 hours away. Here is to another week with out a projector till the replacement comes. But have to say the picture that comes out of the 5040 is really impressive. Happy I bought one just need to get one that has a full functioning pixel array. Also way quieter than my old BenQ w1070 even in high altitude mode.


----------



## seplant

*Wiki start?*

I've been following this thread since very early on and have found there to be just a ton of great information posted here, but the thread has grown so large that it can sometimes be difficult to find specific information. I started keeping a list of posts that have been useful to me, so I put everything in a Word file and put it up on Google Docs. There are over three pages of links to posts on issue resolution, projector capabilities and calibration settings, and other great information. I'm not a gamer, so sorry but I skipped most of the posts specific to that. 

There was talk of starting a wiki page at one time, so if anyone wants to use this as a start, be my guest. Here is the link: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ymtKDt_pJCmdbV1bHNw1jGZSu0zWoIZQ_JZUkfBYy70/edit?usp=sharing. If you have difficulty getting to this file, please let me know.


----------



## MrFootin

*Darbee on HDMI 2 1080p signals*



ndabunka said:


> The darbee increases sharpness on the 1080p signal. Since the 5040 has the ability to convert the 1080p to become a sharper image (e.g. the 4K "eShift-ish" stuff) it essentially does the same thing as darbee & therefore there is no need for it on a projector that has eShift-ish functionality


 I have the same setup, Oppo-203 to HDMI 1 on PJ with Roku 4 routed through the Oppo. I have my Directv receiver going into my Sony AVR and into HDMI 2 on the 5040ub. I didn't think I could use or need the Darbee since it didn't work with 4k, I first ran the Directv without the Darbee then I decided to place the Darbee between the Sony AVR and HDMI 2 on the PJ. The Epson 5040 may have lots of controls for the picture, 4K "eShift-ish stuff, but it does not do what the Darbee does. The Darbee does as much for the picture quality on Directv as it did on my BenQ W1070. IT WORKS! I didn't notice any increase in picture quality going from my BenQ W1070 with the Darbee to the Epson 5040ub when watching Directv. There is a very noticeable increase going when inserting the Darbee on the 5040. The Epson further increases the picture of the Darbee enhanced image coming from the Sony AVR. Without the Darbee on the Epson I had the same image quality as the BenQ with the Darbee. The Darbee most definitely has a place using incoming 1080p signals if you are inputting it on HDMI 2 on the Epson 5040. I didn't think I would need it but since I had it I gave it a shot, and I'm glad I did.


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

NoTechi said:


> Xbox One S (set to 4k HDR) --> HDFury Linker scaling down to 1080p HDR --> Epson
> 
> update----
> Just to add with this I am getting following with Netflix:
> 1920x1080
> 60Hz
> 10bit 4.4.4
> BT.2020 HDR2
> 
> NoTechi


Out of curiosity, why are you downscaling to 1080p, exactly? I could understand if you were doing it to activate FI at 24p -> 60p which works only at 1080p, but to me it seems rather weird to not take advantage of 4K when you already have it.

...did someone convince you that 1080p 4:4:4 was somehow better / sharper than 2160p 4:2:0? Is that it? Because if that's the case, they are dead wrong.


----------



## ndabunka

MrFootin said:


> I have the same setup, Oppo-203 to HDMI 1 on PJ with Roku 4 routed through the Oppo. I have my Directv receiver going into my Sony AVR and into HDMI 2 on the 5040ub. I didn't think I could use or need the Darbee since it didn't work with 4k, I first ran the Directv without the Darbee then I decided to place the Darbee between the Sony AVR and HDMI 2 on the PJ. The Epson 5040 may have lots of controls for the picture, 4K "eShift-ish stuff, but it does not do what the Darbee does. The Darbee does as much for the picture quality on Directv as it did on my BenQ W1070. IT WORKS! I didn't notice any increase in picture quality going from my BenQ W1070 with the Darbee to the Epson 5040ub when watching Directv. There is a very noticeable increase going when inserting the Darbee on the 5040. The Epson further increases the picture of the Darbee enhanced image coming from the Sony AVR. Without the Darbee on the Epson I had the same image quality as the BenQ with the Darbee. The Darbee most definitely has a place using incoming 1080p signals if you are inputting it on HDMI 2 on the Epson 5040. I didn't think I would need it but since I had it I gave it a shot, and I'm glad I did.


You are welcome to continue using your Darby with 1080p sources but the Epson does already have the same (or VERY similar) sharpness utilities already "built into" it. There are 5 ranges and most of us keep ours on 3. To me, this provides the EXACT SAME funcitonality as my Darby used to provide with the non-Epson unit. Keep playing with your 5040 and you are bound to find the setting or just search for more information in this thread. Good luck


----------



## MrFootin

I've spent hours using all the controls available on the 5040ub and while they do have what seems like endless combinations I was never able to achieve the results I did when I threw my Darbee back into the mix. The Epson 5040 does give you great results in improved picture quality on 1080p input signals, add the Darbee and you get fantastic results. Out of the box I saw no improvement (and dare I say, maybe even worse) in the picture quality when watching Directv on HDMI 2 on the Epson from my BenQ W1070 with the Darbee. After hours of adjustments I was able to achieve a "slight" improvement on the Epson over the BenQ/Darbee setup. Once I added the Darbee back in I would say I now have a much better picture on the Epson over the BenQ/Darbee setup. I still have not gotten that jaw dropping picture others have talked about on any 4K Blu-ray I have tried. The only really fantastic picture I've gotten so far was streaming the UHD version of Lone Survivor from my Roku Premier+ on VUDU. I think right now HDR should stand for "High Definition Ruined". On this PJ anyway, it takes a bright, beautiful, vibrant, colorful image and darkens and mutes it. I just laid out over 4K on 4K and I want that jaw dropping picture. Don't get me started on the 3D on this PJ, I may just keep my W1070 hooked up for that. I never even knew what ghosting and crosstalk was, I DO NOW.


----------



## muad'dib

Anyone with xbox one s able to get HDR with UHD movies to work? 

It tells me that Epson can do 4k/60 8 bit, but not HDR..


----------



## WynsWrld98

spirithockey79 said:


> I posted a few pages back about comparing a standard bluray movie on the 5040 to it's 4k HDR counterpart using an Oppo 203. Here are 3 pics that show what I was concerned with, from Star Trek Into Darkness.
> 
> Pic 1 - 4k disc in Oppo on HDR1, using custom gamma settings posted a few pages back with Natural color mode, super white ON, Iris 0, and Eco mode.
> 
> Pic 2 - 4k disc in Oppo on HDR1, digital cinema color mode, gamma 2, super white OFF, Iris 0, and Eco mode.
> 
> Pic 3 - standard bluray in PS4, digital cinema color mode, gamma 0, super white OFF, Iris 0, and Eco mode.
> 
> I keep reading that some people are able to get a nice HDR picture with a P3 color mode like digital cinema or cinema - I just don't see how. Whit Iris fully open, using high gamma, the pic is still pretty dark on HDR1. Also, the standard bluray is by far a brighter picture with more more saturated color. Is everyone seeing the same thing? I'll check the same scene for stripping HDR and using bt2020 in a bit.


Why not try increasing from Eco Mode to medium or full lamp power as a test?


----------



## carp

seplant said:


> See post #4182. Works as designed. Just have to follow the steps described by Epson in that post. Of course, it would be nice if they had put that in the manual!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Thanks, I've read a lot of thread but missed that! I think I get it.... basically don't do any back tracking when setting the image. What's annoying - at least on mine, is that sometimes the lens position stops moving even though I am still pressing the button to move it. I have to hold the button down and then it finally starts moving, often further than I want. It's random, sometimes single pushes of the button work and sometimes they don't.


----------



## bluer101

carp said:


> Thanks, I've read a lot of thread but missed that! I think I get it.... basically don't do any back tracking when setting the image. What's annoying - at least on mine, is that sometimes the lens position stops moving even though I am still pressing the button to move it. I have to hold the button down and then it finally starts moving, often further than I want. It's random, sometimes single pushes of the button work and sometimes they don't.


I notice the same thing only if I go one way, then back the opposite way. When I first go the opposite way is that stop moving like it's got slack in the motor drive. 

I still have not figured out what that shutdown grinding noise is on mine. I have not had a chance to call Epson after I emailed them.


----------



## bluer101

MrFootin, 

First picture was with my Benq W1070 with Oppo 103d with darbee on. Second picture is the Epson 5040ub with 4K enhance on, image enhance on level 4 but tweaked, and darbee on with the Oppo 103d. Both are playing 1080p bluray. I have not played anything yet in 4K as I don't have anything to stream or play it yet.


----------



## Glenn Rubin

siuengr said:


> I'm using the Roku Premiere+. It works well, but right now you can only get HDR from Amazon, and it has severe banding. I don't know if it is my setup, but it says BT2020 HDR2, but it is only 8bit. I'm hoping there will be some updates for Netflix and Youtube. The NVidia shield may work a little better, but I'm waiting for some reviews of the new one.


I have an Roku Ultra and can't get any HDR on it from any source. What are you watching on Amazon when you get the HDR2? 

Thanks


----------



## frenzy987

ndabunka said:


> Thanks for the clairification. Obviously I was not aware that Epson had not released a wireless version of the 6040. I assume then that there is also no european equivalent wireless as well then.


There is a wireless version of the 9300 (6040) at least in australia: http://www.epson.com.au/products/projector/EH-TW9300W.asp


----------



## jsil

Hi bluer101,

How do you like the Epson 5040 so far? I'm also using a Benq W1070 and thinking about upgrading to either Epson 5040 or to the new JVC projector. Just want to know if the PQ is that much better than the Benq and was worth it thanks.


----------



## siuengr

Glenn Rubin said:


> I have an Roku Ultra and can't get any HDR on it from any source. What are you watching on Amazon when you get the HDR2?
> 
> Thanks


The Grand Tour is in HDR and comes up as HDR2. I also tested Mozart in the Jungle, which shows up as HDR2 as well. The weird thing last night is that I got the Roku updated to 7.5.1, and Netflix still didn't show up as HDR, but Luke Cage and Captain America Civil War displayed as BT2020 SDR.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

I've had my 5040ube setup for a few weeks now and no problems.

Last night went to watch Grand Tour off of Roku 4K and get the purple screen/hdcp2.2 error. Worked fine last week. Rebooted Roku and wireless box, same problem. I tried to even switch to 4K 10bit and it won't change resolution due to the error. Switching to 1080p and now cannot switch back to 4K because it says the display does not support.

Switched over to my Samsung 8500 and no problem. My AVR doesn't support 2.2 so on the Samsung its HDMI to Port 2 on the wireless receiver, HDMI to AVR. On the Roku its HDMI to Port 3 on the wireless box, Optical to the AVR.

The Samsung looks terrible IMO on the Amazon app, very washed out compared to the Roku using identical settings which does not make much sense but it is much better.

Same cable, nothing at all moved or changed since last week. I didn't think to try Netflix 4K off of it.

I did not move cables yet, that will be today if it doesn't work.


----------



## bluer101

jsil said:


> Hi bluer101,
> 
> How do you like the Epson 5040 so far? I'm also using a Benq W1070 and thinking about upgrading to either Epson 5040 or to the new JVC projector. Just want to know if the PQ is that much better than the Benq and was worth it thanks.


The PQ is noticeable better as you can see with those photos I posted. Now the question was it worth it? That's very hard to answer because of the $3000 price tag. If the price was not in the equation it is definatly worth it. Right now I'm using a elite screen spectrum that I paired with the Benq to get into the PJ scene. I think when I do a dedicated theater room with a better screen and such I think the 5040 will really shine. Plus, I'm sure my Oppo 103d helps too as it did with the Benq. 

I have one issue with it with the short grinding noise right after shutoff. I hope today to call Epson to see what they will do. I'm still under exchange period until middle of feb with Best Buy being a elite plus member. So if it needs replacing and Epson won't send a brand new unit I will do a exchange with Best Buy. 

The whole purpose for me getting the 5040 was to see the difference in a more expensive PJ. Plus with all the positive reviews that were out there and here I decided to jump on it. It is a step into the future with the 4K enhance, so I figured it can be somewhat future proof for a while. While that being said I have been totally satisfied with bluray 1080p and have not even tried 4K yet. I still think 4K is very premature and being forced to the public. That being said the 5040 is doing great for what I bought it for so far, 1080p with 4K enhance. 

I also wanted the motorized zoom for doing CIH when I hopefully do my room this year, another factor for the 5040.


----------



## bezlar

bluer101 said:


> The PQ is noticeable better as you can see with those photos I posted. Now the question was it worth it? That's very hard to answer because of the $3000 price tag. If the price was not in the equation it is definatly worth it. Right now I'm using a elite screen spectrum that I paired with the Benq to get into the PJ scene. I think when I do a dedicated theater room with a better screen and such I think the 5040 will really shine. Plus, I'm sure my Oppo 103d helps too as it did with the Benq.
> 
> 
> 
> I have one issue with it with the short grinding noise right after shutoff. I hope today to call Epson to see what they will do. I'm still under exchange period until middle of feb with Best Buy being a elite plus member. So if it needs replacing and Epson won't send a brand new unit I will do a exchange with Best Buy.
> 
> 
> 
> The whole purpose for me getting the 5040 was to see the difference in a more expensive PJ. Plus with all the positive reviews that were out there and here I decided to jump on it. It is a step into the future with the 4K enhance, so I figured it can be somewhat future proof for a while. While that being said I have been totally satisfied with bluray 1080p and have not even tried 4K yet. I still think 4K is very premature and being forced to the public. That being said the 5040 is doing great for what I bought it for so far, 1080p with 4K enhance.
> 
> 
> 
> I also wanted the motorized zoom for doing CIH when I hopefully do my room this year, another factor for the 5040.




You sure the grinding noise isn't the lens cover closing?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

bezlar said:


> You sure the grinding noise isn't the lens cover closing?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


It's after the cover shuts. Here is the video from a few pages back. No one even commented about it.


----------



## ndabunka

Ronman79 said:


> You've said this before. But.... There is no wireless 6040 version.





ndabunka said:


> Thanks for the clairification. Obviously I was not aware that Epson had not released a wireless version of the 6040. I assume then that there is also no european equivalent wireless as well then.





frenzy987 said:


> There is a wireless version of the 9300 (6040) at least in australia: http://www.epson.com.au/products/projector/EH-TW9300W.asp


Thanks frenzy987 for the insight. I think the confusion may be due to the model numbers. It appears that the TW8300 is the 5040ub, the TW9300 is the 6040ub. 

However, as it appears to have a white shell on that website, the TW9300W may actually be the 5040ube rather than a 6040ube equivalent. However, if an actual owner (you perhaps? if you are in Aus & have the TW9300W) could verify that the TW9300W is actually black in color (or perhpas has the additional tuning capabilities) then perhaps this can all finally be put to rest.


----------



## bezlar

bluer101 said:


> It's after the cover shuts. Here is the video from a few pages back. No one even commented about it.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-BsKG1rN1w&sns=em




Ya that sounds odd. Mine doesn't make that noise. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

WynsWrld98 said:


> Why not try increasing from Eco Mode to medium or full lamp power as a test?




I have. It doesn't really change the HDR image much.


----------



## spirithockey79

siuengr said:


> The Grand Tour is in HDR and comes up as HDR2. I also tested Mozart in the Jungle, which shows up as HDR2 as well. The weird thing last night is that I got the Roku updated to 7.5.1, and Netflix still didn't show up as HDR, but Luke Cage and Captain America Civil War displayed as BT2020 SDR.




Yep, noticed the same thing last night. However it's still buggy. I have the Roku Premier+ and when I would fast forward or rewind a 4k show, it would keep changing from bt2020 & Rec709. It was a pain cause it was causing me to change my picture settings constantly. Seems like with bt2020 the best video range is Expanded but with Rec709 it looked better with Auto On, and/or super white ON.


----------



## terminal33

Watched the 4K BD of Deepwater Horizon last night using the aforementioned customized gamma/natural settings. The picture was definitely impressive. But then I threw in the 2K disc (gamma 0, natural) to compare and wow, it was perhaps... better? Obviously the question at hand is whether 4K discs are worth purchasing (Atmos aside). This projector does such and incredible job with 2K discs that I'm starting to think I should stop buying 4K discs, unless the 2K version of that movie doesn't have Atmos. Anyway, I know the PQ differences between the 2K and 4K discs of particular movies will vary. But for Deepwater Horizon, I'm perfectly happy with the 2K version and actually prefer it. Below is a comparison shot. I'm curious as to which one you guys prefer. Click on the spoiler tag at the bottom to reveal which pic was 2K and which one was 4K.





















Spoiler



First image is 2K.



Sent from my Galaxy S7.


----------



## rjguk

ndabunka said:


> Thanks frenzy987 for the insight. I think the confusion may be due to the model numbers. It appears that the TW8300 is the 5040ub, the TW9300 is the 6040ub.
> 
> However, as it appears to have a white shell on that website, the TW9300W may actually be the 5040ube rather than a 6040ube equivalent. However, if an actual owner (you perhaps? if you are in Aus & have the TW9300W) could verify that the TW9300W is actually black in color (or perhpas has the additional tuning capabilities) then perhaps this can all finally be put to rest.


Confusing isn't it...
My understanding is that the 'W' suffix is for Wireless. The TW7300 is the 'home' model so it is white, and is equivalent to the 4040ub. The TW9300 is the 'pro' model so is black and equivalent to the 6040ub (but without the spare lamp and mount that the US model has).
The TW9300W is the wireless model and just happens to be white for the Euro/Australia offering. Whether that's functionally identical to a 6040ube in white is another matter.


----------



## siuengr

spirithockey79 said:


> Yep, noticed the same thing last night. However it's still buggy. I have the Roku Premier+ and when I would fast forward or rewind a 4k show, it would keep changing from bt2020 & Rec709. It was a pain cause it was causing me to change my picture settings constantly. Seems like with bt2020 the best video range is Expanded but with Rec709 it looked better with Auto On, and/or super white ON.


I wish they would just provide the options to force a specific output. I tried the hidden menu on the Roku to change from 4:2:2 12 bit to 4:2:0 10 bit, but the 5040 didn't like that at all. It wouldn't display anything until I magically got it switch back without a display. There is a lot of talk on the Roku forum about banding in the Amazon app, so I don't think that is a Epson issue. I don't know where the Netflix issue is.


----------



## ndabunka

rjguk said:


> Confusing isn't it...
> My understanding is that the 'W' suffix is for Wireless. The TW7300 is the 'home' model so it is white, and is equivalent to the 4040ub. The TW9300 is the 'pro' model so is black and equivalent to the 6040ub (but without the spare lamp and mount that the US model has).
> The TW9300W is the wireless model and just happens to be white for the Euro/Australia offering. Whether that's functionally identical to a 6040ube in white is another matter.


The 6040ub is not available in white and there is no 6040ube so the ONLY way ti understand if the TW9300W is actually a 5040ube would be to look "under the covers" at the programming options. THAT would answer the question


----------



## ndabunka

terminal33 said:


> Watched the 4K BD of Deepwater Horizon last night using the aforementioned customized gamma/natural settings. The picture was definitely impressive. But then I threw in the 2K disc (gamma 0, natural) to compare and wow, it was perhaps... better? Obviously the question at hand is whether 4K discs are worth purchasing (Atmos aside). This projector does such and incredible job with 2K discs that I'm starting to think I should stop buying 4K discs, unless the 2K version of that movie doesn't have Atmos. Anyway, I know the PQ differences between the 2K and 4K discs of particular movies will vary. But for Deepwater Horizon, I'm perfectly happy with the 2K version and actually prefer it. Below is a comparison shot. I'm curious as to which one you guys prefer. Click on the spoiler tag at the bottom to reveal which pic was 2K and which one was 4K.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> First image is 2K.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S7.


This is like saying "I have a ferrari but I disabled 2 of it's cylinders so that it would not be as loud. Odd, but the corvette actually seems FASTER"... well, Duh! Not odd...AT ALL.

The "custom gamma settings" are throwing off your 4K picture. They are REALLY washing it out causing you to loose most of the darker aspects. STOP doing that and try comparing the two again.


----------



## Oledurt

ndabunka said:


> This is like saying "I have a ferrari but I disabled 2 of it's cylinders so that it would not be as loud. Odd, but the corvette actually seems FASTER"... well, Duh! Not odd...AT ALL.
> 
> 
> 
> The "custom gamma settings" are throwing off your 4K picture. They are REALLY washing it out causing you to loose most of the darker aspects. STOP doing that and try comparing the two again.




I watched this movie last night in digital cinema mode with hdr 2 looked awesome to me saw all the details just fine.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

ndabunka said:


> This is like saying "I have a ferrari but I disabled 2 of it's cylinders so that it would not be as loud. Odd, but the corvette actually seems FASTER"... well, Duh! Not odd...AT ALL.
> 
> The "custom gamma settings" are throwing off your 4K picture. They are REALLY washing it out causing you to loose most of the darker aspects.  STOP doing that and try comparing the two again.


Couldn't agree any more.
That custom gamma is just a "preference" that came out of visual guessing. I am sure that is way off. It surely is beyond (below) 1.0 looking at the slider positions.
Brighter does not always mean it's better. It just fools the eye(and the brain). 
But anyways. If it looks good for someone, that's what matters I guess..


----------



## frenzy987

ndabunka said:


> The 6040ub is not available in white and there is no 6040ube so the ONLY way ti understand if the TW9300W is actually a 5040ube would be to look "under the covers" at the programming options. THAT would answer the question


The 9300W here has ISF certification, isn't that a feature only on the 6040?


----------



## seplant

spirithockey79 said:


> Yep, noticed the same thing last night. However it's still buggy. I have the Roku Premier+ and when I would fast forward or rewind a 4k show, it would keep changing from bt2020 & Rec709. It was a pain cause it was causing me to change my picture settings constantly. Seems like with bt2020 the best video range is Expanded but with Rec709 it looked better with Auto On, and/or super white ON.


I'm getting BT2020 now from Netflix through the Roku Premier+ after the Roku firmware update. This is the first time I've seen the expanded color range on my 6040. It looked kind of dark, but I still had super white on. I'll try with the HDMI expanded setting instead. Thanks.


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> I watched this movie last night in digital cinema mode with hdr 2 looked awesome to me saw all the details just fine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Have you noticed if Dig Cin w/HDR2 looks too dark on other UHD movies? My Dig Cin setting w/HDR1 seems too dark and that's with Iris at 0 and gamma at 1 or 2. What size is your screen? 

Mine is 110" 2.35 scope but my pj is mounted at the shortest throw distance for my room, so normally I'm getting a TON of FL, probably 40-50, but even then Dig Cin just doesn't compare at all to a std Blu-ray in terms of brightness or color saturation.


----------



## vid53

I just purchased the Sony 45 projector and i am not impressed with the brightness of it. I am really thinking of moving up to the Epson 5040. My set up has the projector, shelf mounted and is 16 feet from a 120 inch Jamestown acoustical transparent screen. I am looking forward to getting some advice on the brightness of this projector from the owners. Also i am looking for the front measurements of this projector like the measurement from the shelf to the bottom of the lens and to the top of the lens from the shelf.


----------



## Oledurt

spirithockey79 said:


> Have you noticed if Dig Cin w/HDR2 looks too dark on other UHD movies? My Dig Cin setting w/HDR1 seems too dark and that's with Iris at 0 and gamma at 1 or 2. What size is your screen?
> 
> Mine is 110" 2.35 scope but my pj is mounted at the shortest throw distance for my room, so normally I'm getting a TON of FL, probably 40-50, but even then Dig Cin just doesn't compare at all to a std Blu-ray in terms of brightness or color saturation.




I am throwing the image onto a 125 inch cinemascope screen the projector is 15 feet back. I have watched a lot of UHD discs in this mode and I find it took me awhile to get used to it.

I think that your eye always gravitates to a brighter image, but not necessarily a better or more accurate image. As I got used to how HDR works I have come to appreciate it more.

I prefer it strongly even over BT2020 with SDR. I find that the image is almost 3d sometimes. I find the image to be softer generally and less color banding.

When the picture is supposed to be dark it is dark when it needs to be bright it is very bright. I don't use HDR 1 because I can't stand the clipped whites.

My room is dark no ambient light whatsoever. If i had any ambient light it would be a different story.

I keep the gamma at 0, but I worked a bit to get the brightness, contrast, and color saturation perfect. I used the Disney WOW disc for this.

I have a LG OLED TV as well So I have watched some stuff on that too. Since it is capable of true black it looks amazing, but I do not see a substantial difference in how the UHD image is presented on the OLED vs the Epson. That is to say a dark UHD movie say Suicide Squad or The Watchmen are dark on both the projector and the OLED. 

The best thing I did was to just stick it on that mode, and watch a bunch of movies, and let myself get used to it. I can say once I got the brightness and stuff set on the projector I have not watched one UHD disc I felt was too dark. 

An example I can tell you about was last night when I watched Deepwater Horizon there is a really dark scene on the rig when he is using a flashlight in a dark passageway. The flashlight just jumped off the screen and it almost felt as if the flashlight was shining into the room.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

terminal33 said:


> Watched the 4K BD of Deepwater Horizon last night using the aforementioned customized gamma/natural settings. The picture was definitely impressive. But then I threw in the 2K disc (gamma 0, natural) to compare and wow, it was perhaps... better? Obviously the question at hand is whether 4K discs are worth purchasing (Atmos aside). This projector does such and incredible job with 2K discs that I'm starting to think I should stop buying 4K discs, unless the 2K version of that movie doesn't have Atmos. Anyway, I know the PQ differences between the 2K and 4K discs of particular movies will vary. But for Deepwater Horizon, I'm perfectly happy with the 2K version and actually prefer it. Below is a comparison shot. I'm curious as to which one you guys prefer. Click on the spoiler tag at the bottom to reveal which pic was 2K and which one was 4K.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> First image is 2K.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S7.



This can be due to the 5040 not being native 4K. I don't think you'd get the same results on a native 4K Sony or new DLP. 



ndabunka said:


> The 6040ub is not available in white and there is no 6040ube so the ONLY way ti understand if the TW9300W is actually a 5040ube would be to look "under the covers" at the programming options. THAT would answer the question





frenzy987 said:


> The 9300W here has ISF certification, isn't that a feature only on the 6040?



I believe the "W" at the end stands for "white", so a TW9300W is basically a white 6040UB.


----------



## GregCh

ndabunka said:


> This is like saying "I have a ferrari but I disabled 2 of it's cylinders so that it would not be as loud. Odd, but the corvette actually seems FASTER"... well, Duh! Not odd...AT ALL.
> 
> The "custom gamma settings" are throwing off your 4K picture. They are REALLY washing it out causing you to loose most of the darker aspects. STOP doing that and try comparing the two again.


The thing is your projector is a 1080P projector. There really shouldn't be much difference between a standard bluray and a 4K UHD bluray because the projector can really only reproduce 1080P. 

I know that it has pixel shifting but pixel shifting doesn't improve resolution. The resolution remains 1080P. The only thing you are really comparing is the custom gamma settings vs the standard HDR settings. 

If you had a true 4K projector, projecting a sufficiently large image, side by side to a 1080P image, and you were close to the screen then you would see a big difference. Most likely unless your screen size is over 120" and your seating distance is less than 10', it probably wouldn't make much difference.


----------



## Oledurt

GregCh said:


> The thing is your projector is a 1080P projector. There really shouldn't be much difference between a standard bluray and a 4K UHD bluray because the projector can really only reproduce 1080P.
> 
> 
> 
> I know that it has pixel shifting but pixel shifting doesn't improve resolution. The resolution remains 1080P. The only thing you are really comparing is the custom gamma settings vs the standard HDR settings.
> 
> 
> 
> If you had a true 4K projector, projecting a sufficiently large image, side by side to a 1080P image, and you were close to the screen then you would see a big difference. Most likely unless your screen size is over 120" and your seating distance is less than 10', it probably wouldn't make much difference.




I have seen the epson next to a 15k Sony native 4k projector, and believe me the Sony looks better even at a distance.

The Epson is not in the same league, and should not be compared to the Sony.

That being said the Epson is very very good for the price. It is a great upgrade from the old 5030UB. 4K pixel shifting works pretty damn good, and certainly brings out details you don't see on regular 1080p.

Native 4k is a whole other level, and as soon as projectors can do both HDR, and native 4k for less than a Rolex costs I will be all over it. Until than I will be happy with this Epson.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Adream2018

Can someone please elaborate on what this means (taken from Epson website)? 


*Exceptional video performance* — includes ISF®-certified calibration tools and lockable memory modes to ensure accurate performance
Denon AV receivers come with Audyssey software and a mirophone, so consumers can calibrate audio. Is this something similar for vieo calibrations?

What differences does the 6040 offer over the 5040 for $1,000 extra other than: 1) spare lamp, 2) 1 extra year of warranty coverage, 3) a cable cover and 4) ISF calibration tools?

If the spare lamp, extra year of warranty coverage and cable cover are no value to me, would you say the ISF calibration tools are worth $1,000? For individuals who purchase the 5040, does that mean you can not have a certified ISF technician calibrate your projector?

I am trying to decide if I should get the 5040 or the 6040. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> I am throwing the image onto a 125 inch cinemascope screen the projector is 15 feet back. I have watched a lot of UHD discs in this mode and I find it took me awhile to get used to it.
> 
> I think that your eye always gravitates to a brighter image, but not necessarily a better or more accurate image. As I got used to how HDR works I have come to appreciate it more.
> 
> I prefer it strongly even over BT2020 with SDR. I find that the image is almost 3d sometimes. I find the image to be softer generally and less color banding.
> 
> When the picture is supposed to be dark it is dark when it needs to be bright it is very bright. I don't use HDR 1 because I can't stand the clipped whites.
> 
> My room is dark no ambient light whatsoever. If i had any ambient light it would be a different story.
> 
> I keep the gamma at 0, but I worked a bit to get the brightness, contrast, and color saturation perfect. I used the Disney WOW disc for this.
> 
> I have a LG OLED TV as well So I have watched some stuff on that too. Since it is capable of true black it looks amazing, but I do not see a substantial difference in how the UHD image is presented on the OLED vs the Epson. That is to say a dark UHD movie say Suicide Squad or The Watchmen are dark on both the projector and the OLED.
> 
> The best thing I did was to just stick it on that mode, and watch a bunch of movies, and let myself get used to it. I can say once I got the brightness and stuff set on the projector I have not watched one UHD disc I felt was too dark.
> 
> An example I can tell you about was last night when I watched Deepwater Horizon there is a really dark scene on the rig when he is using a flashlight in a dark passageway. The flashlight just jumped off the screen and it almost felt as if the flashlight was shining into the room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Thanks for the info. Maybe my problem is that I keep messing around trying to find the perfect setup between the Oppo 203 & 5040 with HDR vs strip metadata, video range Auto vs Expanded, P3 Color Mode vs brighter image, etc etc. Maybe I should try what you suggest and just try to get used to HDR and then try to enjoy it! Of course now I'm toying with buying the Panny UHD player and comparing that to the Oppo as I've read quite a few posts where that produces a much better picture.


----------



## ndabunka

GregCh said:


> The thing is your projector is a 1080P projector. There really shouldn't be much difference between a standard bluray and a 4K UHD bluray because the projector can really only reproduce 1080P.
> 
> I know that it has pixel shifting but pixel shifting doesn't improve resolution. The resolution remains 1080P. The only thing you are really comparing is the custom gamma settings vs the standard HDR settings.
> 
> If you had a true 4K projector, projecting a sufficiently large image, side by side to a 1080P image, and you were close to the screen then you would see a big difference. Most likely unless your screen size is over 120" and your seating distance is less than 10', it probably wouldn't make much difference.


LOL. Just LOL


----------



## ndabunka

Dave Harper said:


> I believe the "W" at the end stands for "white", so a TW9300W is basically a white 6040UB.


The "W" couldn't also stand for..... Wireless?


----------



## siuengr

Tonycpa2004 said:


> Can someone please elaborate on what this means (taken from Epson website)? Denon AV receivers come with Audyssey software and a mirophone, so consumers can calibrate audio. Is this something similar for vieo calibrations...
> 
> 
> *Exceptional video performance* — includes ISF®-certified calibration tools and lockable memory modes to ensure accurate performance
> What differences does the 6040 offer over the 5040 for $1,000 extra other than: 1) spare lamp, 2) 1 extra year of warranty coverage, 3) a cable cover and 4) ISF calibration tools?
> 
> If the spare lamp, extra year of warranty coverage and cable cover are no value to me, would you say the ISF calibration tools are worth $1,000? For individuals who purchase the 5040, does that mean you can not have a certified ISF technician calibrate your projector?
> 
> I am trying to decide if I should get the 5040 or the 6040. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!


I only have the 5040, so I'm not 100% what all the extra tools are for the 6040. You can still have a ISF technition come calibrate the 5040, but I think the 6040 has some additional settings to tweak the color a little more. They both have the same light engine, so you should be able to get very similar results. I think more people get the 6040 because it is black rather than white. I would have too, but it wasn't worth $1000.


----------



## Adream2018

^^^Thanks. I prefer the white. I guess if I can have the 5040 calibrated by an ISF tech there is no need to spend the $1,000 extra for the 6040. Especially, since I don't need the spare lamp, cable cover, and extra 1 year of warranty coverage. I appreciate the quick reply.

I just sold my 5030UBe for $1,600 on Ebay (I bought it for $2,600, no shipping or tax, exactly two years ago, so it wound up only costing $500 per year). Tonight I found the 5040UB for $2,700, no shiping or tax. So, it looks like this is a no brainer for $1,100 out of pocket (just in time for the Superbowl). After, I use it for 100 hours (or whatever they recommend) I'll probably opt to have an ISF tech calibrate (which I have never done before for a few hundred more). 

I appreciate the quick response.


----------



## frenzy987

Dave Harper said:


> I believe the "W" at the end stands for "white", so a TW9300W is basically a white 6040UB.


Here you go, have a look yourself:

http://www.epson.com.au/products/projector/EH-TW9300W.asp?groupid=127

Wireless check
ISF Certified check
3 year bulb warranty check

It also happens to be white, which is odd, but such are regional differences at times.


----------



## covsound1

ordered aeon 3d elite roll to compare against my hp 2.8 screen. had this screen over the years and never notice the dirty film it had. i cleaned it with a micro towel and water, went from a dull white to a bright white wow night and day. put a blue ray in and was amazed at the clarity and bright skies no longer looked alive. had to turn up color and bring down brightness looked a lot like my 4k tv but i lost my 3d feel and blacks where not as lush and deep (jvc like ). the picture had contrast but lost something.(felt like i had a 3000 dollar projector) i also notice my room was a lot darker when the screen went bright guess its a true white alr screen. prometheus looked sharp but black was off no matter how i adjusted the pj. the kicker was when i loaded lucy hdr2 not 1 and closed down iris -8 plus 1 gamma looked better than i have ever seen it before and jupiter ascending looked awesome. i will miss 8 years of dirt lol. i hope the elite 3d can give me the clarity like a clean hp 2.8, the 3d vibrant color like a dirty 8 year hp 2.8 and the black pop of a alr screen. i know wishful thinking!!


----------



## Dave Harper

ndabunka said:


> The "W" couldn't also stand for..... Wireless?






frenzy987 said:


> Here you go, have a look yourself:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.epson.com.au/products/projector/EH-TW9300W.asp?groupid=127
> 
> 
> 
> Wireless check
> 
> ISF Certified check
> 
> 3 year bulb warranty check
> 
> 
> 
> It also happens to be white, which is odd, but such are regional differences at times.



Well there you go, the W means white and wireless! 

Thanks for the clarification!


----------



## gnolivos

GregCh said:


> The thing is your projector is a 1080P projector. There really shouldn't be much difference between a standard bluray and a 4K UHD bluray because the projector can really only reproduce 1080P.
> 
> 
> 
> I know that it has pixel shifting but pixel shifting doesn't improve resolution. The resolution remains 1080P. The only thing you are really comparing is the custom gamma settings vs the standard HDR settings.
> 
> 
> 
> If you had a true 4K projector, projecting a sufficiently large image, side by side to a 1080P image, and you were close to the screen then you would see a big difference. Most likely unless your screen size is over 120" and your seating distance is less than 10', it probably wouldn't make much difference.




This is incorrect. Eshifting on a 4K source does in fact increase resolution over a 1080p source. 
Eshifting on a 1080p source however only increases pixel fill rate.


----------



## dholmes54

I watched Deep Water Horizon last night,std blu-ray,did anyone noticed a weird pattern in the background in the closing credits, need to try it on my TV to see if its the Epson causing it,the rest of the movie looked great and the sq was A+ could only stand -18 on my Yamaha MV.


----------



## aaranddeeman

dholmes54 said:


> I watched Deep Water Horizon last night,std blu-ray,did anyone noticed a weird pattern in the background in the closing credits, need to try it on my TV to see if its the Epson causing it,the rest of the movie looked great and the sq was A+ could only stand -18 on my Yamaha MV.


I quit once the credits appear.
Having said that the PQ on the BR is fantastic.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Tonycpa2004 said:


> What differences does the 6040 offer over the 5040 for $1,000 extra other than: 1) spare lamp, 2) 1 extra year of warranty coverage, 3) a cable cover and 4) ISF calibration tools?


And mount.

It's like asking what's the difference if I fly business vs economy for a $$$$ more other than : 1)Lounge access 2)All drinks on the plane and ever where 3)close to flat bed sleeping 4)Premium everything etc. etc.
Just sayin..


----------



## RyanChristopher

Oledurt said:


> I am throwing the image onto a 125 inch cinemascope screen the projector is 15 feet back. I have watched a lot of UHD discs in this mode and I find it took me awhile to get used to it.
> 
> I think that your eye always gravitates to a brighter image, but not necessarily a better or more accurate image. As I got used to how HDR works I have come to appreciate it more.
> 
> I prefer it strongly even over BT2020 with SDR. I find that the image is almost 3d sometimes. I find the image to be softer generally and less color banding.
> 
> When the picture is supposed to be dark it is dark when it needs to be bright it is very bright. I don't use HDR 1 because I can't stand the clipped whites.
> 
> My room is dark no ambient light whatsoever. If i had any ambient light it would be a different story.
> 
> I keep the gamma at 0, but I worked a bit to get the brightness, contrast, and color saturation perfect. I used the Disney WOW disc for this.
> 
> I have a LG OLED TV as well So I have watched some stuff on that too. Since it is capable of true black it looks amazing, but I do not see a substantial difference in how the UHD image is presented on the OLED vs the Epson. That is to say a dark UHD movie say Suicide Squad or The Watchmen are dark on both the projector and the OLED.
> 
> The best thing I did was to just stick it on that mode, and watch a bunch of movies, and let myself get used to it. I can say once I got the brightness and stuff set on the projector I have not watched one UHD disc I felt was too dark.
> 
> An example I can tell you about was last night when I watched Deepwater Horizon there is a really dark scene on the rig when he is using a flashlight in a dark passageway. The flashlight just jumped off the screen and it almost felt as if the flashlight was shining into the room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Awesome write up I feel the same. I would rather watch getbused to watching a dark scene the way the film maker intended it to be than to adjust their vision to suit my preferences. 

You said you don't use HDR 1 thus I am assuming you use the HDR 2 setting. Did you use the Cinema or Digital Cinema modes for the increases color gamut or another setting before doing your basic calibration adjustments with the WOW disc?


----------



## siuengr

aaranddeeman said:


> And mount.
> 
> It's like asking what's the difference if I fly business vs economy for a $$$$ more other than : 1)Lounge access 2)All drinks on the plane and ever where 3)close to flat bed sleeping 4)Premium everything etc. etc.
> Just sayin..


Not exactly considering they have the same exact light engine. It's more like paying for Economy vs Economy Plus. You may get an inch of extra leg room, aka ISF tools, and some free drinks, aka the lamp, mount, and cover, but if you don't need those things then there is no need to pay for them.


----------



## Adream2018

aaranddeeman said:


> And mount.
> 
> It's like asking what's the difference if I fly business vs economy for a $$$$ more other than : 1)Lounge access 2)All drinks on the plane and ever where 3)close to flat bed sleeping 4)Premium everything etc. etc.
> Just sayin..


The reason why I asked was because I wanted to know if there was anything else included that I wasn't aware of for the extra $1,000. Since I have no use for the spare lamp, extra year of warranty or the cable cover, the only thing that would be to me was the ISF tool. I wasn't familiar with the ISF tool which is why I asked for information about it. I also asked if there were any other possible upgrades which I wasn't aware of.

Your response let me know that a mount is also included. I don't need that as well, so your reply helped me make an informed decision. Thanks.


----------



## Pesonen

aaranddeeman said:


> Couldn't agree any more.
> That custom gamma is just a "preference" that came out of visual guessing. I am sure that is way off. It surely is beyond (below) 1.0 looking at the slider positions.
> Brighter does not always mean it's better. It just fools the eye(and the brain).
> But anyways. If it looks good for someone, that's what matters I guess..



The problem with this projector when comparing image quality of 4K HDR releases to their blu-ray counterparts has always been just what a brilliant SDR 1080p image it can produce. However the adjusted gamma settings posted here combined with the nicely accurate colour of the "Natural" setting bring out by far the best results. It's cool to hear people are enjoying their projectors on wider colour gamut "Cinema" or "Digital cinema" settings. For my eyes those settings are more of a marketing feature for Epson though as they can say the projector produces an increased percentage of BT2020 in theory. The WCG filter eats so much light in the process though that the resulting image is too dull for enjoyable viewing for me. 

Just my 2 cents but thanks to aaranddeeman for his findings with the gamma curves, has made 4K Blu-rays look great on this projector.


----------



## Oledurt

testing


----------



## AdamAttewell

Tonycpa2004 said:


> Can someone please elaborate on what this means (taken from Epson website)?
> 
> 
> *Exceptional video performance* — includes ISF®-certified calibration tools and lockable memory modes to ensure accurate performance
> Denon AV receivers come with Audyssey software and a mirophone, so consumers can calibrate audio. Is this something similar for vieo calibrations?
> 
> What differences does the 6040 offer over the 5040 for $1,000 extra other than: 1) spare lamp, 2) 1 extra year of warranty coverage, 3) a cable cover and 4) ISF calibration tools?
> 
> If the spare lamp, extra year of warranty coverage and cable cover are no value to me, would you say the ISF calibration tools are worth $1,000? For individuals who purchase the 5040, does that mean you can not have a certified ISF technician calibrate your projector?
> 
> I am trying to decide if I should get the 5040 or the 6040. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!


I would recommend giving this review a look.

http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/

In Europe the 5040 is called the 7300 & the 6040 is called the 9300.

They compare both of them against each other toward the end of the review and you can see you are really paying for black level in the 6040.

They also show how the room effects projectors and that if you are not in a bat cave the 6040 is a waste of money.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Pesonen said:


> The problem with this projector when comparing image quality of 4K HDR releases to their blu-ray counterparts has always been just what a brilliant SDR 1080p image it can produce. .


A small correction. It's not just this projector, this is true for every other 4k (faux or native) projector in the market currently.


----------



## aaranddeeman

AdamAttewell said:


> I would recommend giving this review a look.
> 
> http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/
> 
> In Europe the 5040 is called the 7300 & the 6040 is called the 9300.
> 
> They compare both of them against each other toward the end of the review and you can see you are really paying for black level in the 6040.
> 
> They also show how the room effects projectors and that if you are not in a bat cave the 6040 is a waste of money.


After HCFR calibration, I am getting on/off contrast close to 6300:1 in Cinema mode with Iris=0 (and Auto iris off). This is on 6040.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Pesonen said:


> It's cool to hear people are enjoying their projectors on wider colour gamut "Cinema" or "Digital cinema" settings. For my eyes those settings are more of a marketing feature for Epson though as they can say the projector produces an increased percentage of BT2020 in theory.


Not a theory. It does produce the DCI-P3 gamut in Cinema and Digital Cinema.
You will need to see the CIE to believe.


----------



## v8maro

Hey guys - got the 5040ub new last week - I'm playing UHD Blu rays from my Xbox one s - it seems to not be playing in '4k enhancement' mode. How do I get the setting image -> image enhancement -> 4k enhancement setting to be enabled?? Kinda confused here.


----------



## gnolivos

AdamAttewell said:


> I would recommend giving this review a look.
> 
> 
> 
> http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/
> 
> 
> 
> In Europe the 5040 is called the 7300 & the 6040 is called the 9300.
> 
> 
> 
> They compare both of them against each other toward the end of the review and you can see you are really paying for black level in the 6040.
> 
> 
> 
> They also show how the room effects projectors and that if you are not in a bat cave the 6040 is a waste of money.




I'm surprised about this finding. I thought they were both identical on specs. Maybe calibration was somewhat off on the 5040?!


----------



## siuengr

gnolivos said:


> I'm surprised about this finding. I thought they were both identical on specs. Maybe calibration was somewhat off on the 5040?!


The 7300 is equivalent to the 4040ub, the 9300 is equivalent to the 5040/6040ub. If you look at the specs for the 7300 the listed lumens is 2300 which is the same as the 4040. The 5040/6040 both have 2500 lumens. The 7300 only has a listed contrast of 160,000:1, compared to the 1,000,000:1 listed for the 9300.


----------



## aaranddeeman

*Epson6040 Calibrated Cinema settings*

Anyone who is interested in using these setting, please feel free.
Please note
1. They have been calibrated using HCFR
2. This is not professionally calibrated, but DIY. So further fine tuning may be possible.
3. These are calibrated for SDR only (using internal HCFR patterns)
4. Calibration was done and is useful for light controlled room (with dark walls)

You can set the lens iris to your choice. Lens iris 0 produces about 9+ ftl on (from a distance of about 13.5 ft from screen). At lens iris -10, you should get bit over 8 ftl.
Auto iris can be set to normal while watching.
DE of magenta could get down only to 3.7. It was not possible to go below that. Rest all are less than of around 1.0

Once I have other mode(s), I will share the settings here. I will also have my signature updated at some point with these setting link(s).


----------



## raf77

siuengr said:


> The 7300 is equivalent to the 4040ub, the 9300 is equivalent to the 5040/6040ub. If you look at the specs for the 7300 the listed lumens is 2300 which is the same as the 4040. The 5040/6040 both have 2500 lumens. The 7300 only has a listed contrast of 160,000:1, compared to the 1,000,000:1 listed for the 9300.


You right.
4040ub is tw7300
But tw9300 isn't equivalent to 5040ub.
There is a 3rd one tw8300 equivalent to 5040ub.


----------



## Smarty-pants

spirithockey79 said:


> Thanks for the info. Maybe my problem is that I keep messing around trying to find the perfect setup between the Oppo 203 & 5040 with HDR vs strip metadata, video range Auto vs Expanded, P3 Color Mode vs brighter image, etc etc. Maybe I should try what you suggest and just try to get used to HDR and then try to enjoy it! Of course now I'm toying with buying the Panny UHD player and comparing that to the Oppo as I've read quite a few posts where that produces a much better picture.


I'd give Oppo a bit more time to tweak their software. I know it's frustrating after buying it and now having to wait on certain features,
but it will be worth it in the end.

As far as comparing to the Panasonic, the Panny does have sharpening techniques embedded in it's coding.
You can get an equal image on the Oppo if you play with enhancement settings in player and projector.
Oppo strives to get the most accurate image that comes from the source material while also offering things
like upsampling and upscaling and such, but they will never alter an image against the users will,
even if it does look good, they cater to videophile/audiophile demographic and try to keep things pure if you will.

When it comes to HDR I think the 5040 does quite well actually.
You really do need to have different memory settings for different things.
I can enjoy all aspects of it with the P3 filter modes, except sometimes when a movie is really dark in general
and is zoomed out to fill my 115" Cinemascope screen. Then HDR gets a bit underwhelming and I either use Strip Metadata
in the Oppo or use Bright Cinema in the 5040. I am still tweaking things constantly with the 5040 as time permits but as any
owner knows it isn't easy since things like HDR and fluctuating output from movie to movie can vary so much.


----------



## dimi123

ndabunka said:


> I think the confusion may be due to the model numbers. It appears that the TW8300 is the 5040ub, the TW9300 is the 6040ub.
> However, as it appears to have a white shell on that website, the TW9300W may actually be the 5040ube rather than a 6040ube equivalent. However, if an actual owner (you perhaps? if you are in Aus & have the TW9300W) could verify that the TW9300W is actually black in color (or perhpas has the additional tuning capabilities) then perhaps this can all finally be put to rest.


The TW9300W has an all white shell in Europe and has also a "Anamorphic Wide" setting, so it should be the equivalent of the 6040ube.


----------



## achanonier

terminal33 said:


> Watched the 4K BD of Deepwater Horizon last night using the aforementioned customized gamma/natural settings. The picture was definitely impressive. But then I threw in the 2K disc (gamma 0, natural) to compare and wow, it was perhaps... better? Obviously the question at hand is whether 4K discs are worth purchasing (Atmos aside). This projector does such and incredible job with 2K discs that I'm starting to think I should stop buying 4K discs, unless the 2K version of that movie doesn't have Atmos. Anyway, I know the PQ differences between the 2K and 4K discs of particular movies will vary. But for Deepwater Horizon, I'm perfectly happy with the 2K version and actually prefer it. Below is a comparison shot. I'm curious as to which one you guys prefer. Click on the spoiler tag at the bottom to reveal which pic was 2K and which one was 4K.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> First image is 2K.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S7.


Both look pretty good to me.

I've also been comparing a lot a 4k HDR vs 1080p Blu Ray.

A also noticed more color punch with some std Blu Ray but the 4K HDR version has so much more color gradations it's impressive.
You can easily notice it in The First Star Treck movie just before Kirk leaves to join Star fleet when he looks at the Star Fleet base on the ground , there is so much more different shades of grey compared to the std Blu Ray.
That leads to a somehow softer looking image with regards to colors... But they are so much richer...

Also remember that the color mastering is done differently probably by different persons may be with different targets... So when you compare you don't only compare technology / PJ settings but you also compare the job done at mastering.

I noticed that some movies look very similar while other offer differents color grading, color punch...

I watched Star Treck beyond yesterday evening and I must say that I love the picture I get in 4k HDR, I now feel that I lack something with std blu rays... and it's not the resolution... it's color grading, HDR...


PS : I got it right at gessing the 4k picture in you screens, just by looking at the hangar roof on the top right and differents shades of green in the grass...


----------



## achanonier

RyanChristopher said:


> Awesome write up I feel the same. *I would rather watch getbused to watching a dark scene the way the film maker intended it to be than to adjust their vision to suit my preferences. *


Exept that the film maker and colorist are doing the master with a 1000 or 10000 max nit target. So their intened medium brightness and dark scenes brightness is way over the one we get with the PJ... So you're absolutely not getting what's intended either...


----------



## raf77

dimi123 said:


> The TW9300W has an all white shell in Europe and has also a "Anamorphic Wide" setting, so it should be the equivalent of the 6040ube.


Tw9300w (w for wi-fi i think) is white.
Tw9300 without "w" is black.


----------



## Ryan0751

I'm considering upgrading from my trusty 5.5 year old Epson 8700UB to the 5040UB or 5040UBE.

But, I have some concerns. I apologize if this is a bit long, but please be patient as I'll get back to the 5040UB/UBE discussion by the end 

Just to give some background, I live in a loft.

In my living space, I have a standard LCD TV for daytime viewing, with my projection screen mounted above:










The PJ is hanging from the ceiling on a long pole mount:










The PJ gets it's HDMI using a CAT6 cable running through conduit to the front of the room and an HDMI balun extender.

Recently I've made some upgrades to the system. First, I swapped out my receiver for a Yamaha RX-V860 which has HDMI 2.0a and HDCP 2.2 support. It also has dual HDMI outputs, so I can easily have my TV and PJ both connected up to my system (with my old receiver I had to use an HDMI splitter). 

I also added an XBox One S and upgraded my PS4 to the PS4 Pro with the hopes of moving to 4K soon. I "cut the cord" last year, so I stream and now use the XBox One with tuner and OTA antenna for local channels. Everything was working just fine (in 1080p of course).

I then swapped out my TV (an older Samsung 46") for the one pictured, a Sony 55" 930d. This is when I started having big issues.

With both HDMI outputs enabled (to the TV and PJ), my PJ video cuts out constantly (every 10-30s). I got around this problem by setting the receiver to output only to the PJ when using the PJ activities (Harmony Elite remote), and only to the TV when using TV activities, etc. Great!

Now I have HDCP 2.2 problems. The XBox One S will display just fine on my TV, but won't display on my PJ (the receiver pops up an HDCP 2.2 error).

So now, this is where I'm thinking about the 5040UB/UBE. Ideally I had hoped to wait a bit longer to see what happens with the 4K space an native support on PJ's. But, I think the 5040UB may still be an upgrade from my existing PJ and be more than good enough for my middle aged eyes.

I'm interested in the UBE wireless model, but I read in one Amazon review the wireless doesn't support HDR? And I've of course read many things on this thread that HDR doesn't work well with most sources anyway. If I don't go with the UBE, I need to figure out how to get the HDMI to my PJ. There are 4K baluns on Monoprice that do 4K at 30Hz, but of course not HDR. I'm not sure if I even need HDR. 

More concerning, if you use the wireless transmitter, does the receiver "see" it as HDCP 2.2 compliant? I want to avoid the problems I have with my existing setup. I presume making everything in the path HDCP 2.2 will fix most of them. Anyone else running a setup like mine?

If you have any suggestions here I'd really appreciate it! These issues have been driving me nuts, I am kind of regretting making changes to my previously working setup.


----------



## v8maro

Can anyone help me? No matter what source I put to the Epson I cannot get the 4k enhancement setting to be enabled. What am I doing wrong?? Sending from my Xbox one s - using the blu-ray player, YouTube, Amazon, and Netflix! Is this an Xbox one s issue?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> I am throwing the image onto a 125 inch cinemascope screen the projector is 15 feet back. I have watched a lot of UHD discs in this mode and I find it took me awhile to get used to it.
> 
> I think that your eye always gravitates to a brighter image, but not necessarily a better or more accurate image. As I got used to how HDR works I have come to appreciate it more.
> 
> I prefer it strongly even over BT2020 with SDR. I find that the image is almost 3d sometimes. I find the image to be softer generally and less color banding.
> 
> When the picture is supposed to be dark it is dark when it needs to be bright it is very bright. I don't use HDR 1 because I can't stand the clipped whites.
> 
> My room is dark no ambient light whatsoever. If i had any ambient light it would be a different story.
> 
> I keep the gamma at 0, but I worked a bit to get the brightness, contrast, and color saturation perfect. I used the Disney WOW disc for this.
> 
> I have a LG OLED TV as well So I have watched some stuff on that too. Since it is capable of true black it looks amazing, but I do not see a substantial difference in how the UHD image is presented on the OLED vs the Epson. That is to say a dark UHD movie say Suicide Squad or The Watchmen are dark on both the projector and the OLED.
> 
> The best thing I did was to just stick it on that mode, and watch a bunch of movies, and let myself get used to it. I can say once I got the brightness and stuff set on the projector I have not watched one UHD disc I felt was too dark.
> 
> An example I can tell you about was last night when I watched Deepwater Horizon there is a really dark scene on the rig when he is using a flashlight in a dark passageway. The flashlight just jumped off the screen and it almost felt as if the flashlight was shining into the room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Perfect.
Reflects my sentiments exactly.


----------



## aaranddeeman

v8maro said:


> Can anyone help me? No matter what source I put to the Epson I cannot get the 4k enhancement setting to be enabled. What am I doing wrong?? Sending from my Xbox one s - using the blu-ray player, YouTube, Amazon, and Netflix! Is this an Xbox one s issue?


If the 4K enhancement shows greyed out, then PJ is already receiving 4k source (natively or upgraded by one of the devices in the chain). Check Projector Info to confirm this.
Most likely your AVR may be the culprit, if every signal is being upscaled.


----------



## v8maro

aaranddeeman said:


> If the 4K enhancement shows greyed out, then PJ is already receiving 4k source (natively or upgraded by one of the devices in the chain). Check Projector Info to confirm this.
> Most likely your AVR may be the culprit, if every signal is being upscaled.


chain is:
xbox one s -> denon avr x6300h (4k passthrough) -> epson 5040ub

Thanks for the fast response - I have a Denon AVR-X6300H feeding the PJ, I'll check to see how it's set. So if 4k enhancement is off, this means its got a 4k signal? OK, cool. I'm new to all of this so I've been reading a lot of this thread but its very long. When I look at the info on the PJ for when I'm playing something the resolution is 3840x2160, BT.709, SDR, usually in 24fps coming from a bluray on the xbox one s - how do I get HDR to work when it's a 4k HDR blu ray?


----------



## kg505

v8maro said:


> chain is:
> xbox one s -> denon avr x6300h (4k passthrough) -> epson 5040ub
> 
> Thanks for the fast response - I have a Denon AVR-X6300H feeding the PJ, I'll check to see how it's set. So if 4k enhancement is off, this means its got a 4k signal? OK, cool. I'm new to all of this so I've been reading a lot of this thread but its very long. When I look at the info on the PJ for when I'm playing something the resolution is 3840x2160, BT.709, SDR, usually in 24fps coming from a bluray on the xbox one s - how do I get HDR to work when it's a 4k HDR blu ray?


In short the xbox one s will not currently display HDR with the 5040UB because of what signal the xbox one s outputs. To get HDR to show up with a 4K HDR blu ray right now using the xbox one s you need an HD Fury linker or you have to exchange the 5040UB for the 5040UBE model. Also keep in mind that HDR will not work on any xbox one s games no matter which model of the 5040 you have without the HD Fury Linker. 

Earlier in this thread there are a ton of specifics on why the xbox one s doesn't work with with the 5040 if you want more details.


----------



## v8maro

kg505 said:


> In short the xbox one s will not currently display HDR with the 5040UB because of what signal the xbox one s outputs. To get HDR to show up with a 4K HDR blu ray right now using the xbox one s you need an HD Fury linker or you have to exchange the 5040UB for the 5040UBE model. Also keep in mind that HDR will not work on any xbox one s games no matter which model of the 5040 you have without the HD Fury Linker.
> 
> Earlier in this thread there are a ton of specifics on why the xbox one s doesn't work with with the 5040 if you want more details.


Thanks for the helpful info!! How would me having the 5040UBe help? I thought the only difference was the WirelessHD? 

So the linker is $200, is it basically plug and play between the Denon and the PJ? I did read that some HDR BR players will play HDR content on the 5040 but those are anywhere from $300-400, so with me having the xbox one s already, the linker may be the solution. 

I can be pretty patient, does MS/XBox plan to change the output format at all? And yeah, do you know the post number(s) with the info, I'd love to learn/read it. Unfortunately this thread is so long it's hard to find it!

Lastly, whats the difference between this:
https://www.amazon.com/HD-Fury-Spli...84577312&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=HD+FURY+Linker

and this:
https://www.hdfury.com/shop/videoprocessors/linker-4k60-444-600mhz/

Thanks!!!


----------



## Docj04

seplant said:


> I've been following this thread since very early on and have found there to be just a ton of great information posted here, but the thread has grown so large that it can sometimes be difficult to find specific information. I started keeping a list of posts that have been useful to me, so I put everything in a Word file and put it up on Google Docs. There are over three pages of links to posts on issue resolution, projector capabilities and calibration settings, and other great information. I'm not a gamer, so sorry but I skipped most of the posts specific to that.
> 
> There was talk of starting a wiki page at one time, so if anyone wants to use this as a start, be my guest. Here is the link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9bUBIufx_l4OTc5bTZpUkk3V1k. If you have difficulty getting to this file, please let me know.


I'd Like to buy you dinner and drinks for all of this effort. This is my post maybe ever on this entire site!!

Well done, and truly appreciated.


----------



## ndabunka

raf77 said:


> Tw9300w (w for wi-fi i think) is white.
> Tw9300 without "w" is black.


The TW9300 that is black does not have the wireless option so logically the W stands for WIRELESS!

Just kidding. We have ALREADY been over this in the prior posts in this thread. I like the premise that the W stands for wireless AND white. In ths end that distrinction is miniscule when related to WHY the original inquiry was possed.

I stated that I thought that there was a wireless equivalent to the 6040 that was produced. Others said (nearly) flat out that I was crazy. What color that wireless version actually is, is simply a tertiary component. 

Others verifying that there actually IS a wireless 6040 varient meets the measure of my original inquiry so thanks to the european and those down under for that confirmation.


----------



## seplant

Oledurt said:


> I am throwing the image onto a 125 inch cinemascope screen the projector is 15 feet back. I have watched a lot of UHD discs in this mode and I find it took me awhile to get used to it.
> 
> I think that your eye always gravitates to a brighter image, but not necessarily a better or more accurate image. As I got used to how HDR works I have come to appreciate it more.
> 
> I prefer it strongly even over BT2020 with SDR. I find that the image is almost 3d sometimes. I find the image to be softer generally and less color banding.
> 
> When the picture is supposed to be dark it is dark when it needs to be bright it is very bright. I don't use HDR 1 because I can't stand the clipped whites.
> 
> My room is dark no ambient light whatsoever. If i had any ambient light it would be a different story.
> 
> I keep the gamma at 0, but I worked a bit to get the brightness, contrast, and color saturation perfect. I used the Disney WOW disc for this.
> 
> I have a LG OLED TV as well So I have watched some stuff on that too. Since it is capable of true black it looks amazing, but I do not see a substantial difference in how the UHD image is presented on the OLED vs the Epson. That is to say a dark UHD movie say Suicide Squad or The Watchmen are dark on both the projector and the OLED.
> 
> The best thing I did was to just stick it on that mode, and watch a bunch of movies, and let myself get used to it. I can say once I got the brightness and stuff set on the projector I have not watched one UHD disc I felt was too dark.
> 
> An example I can tell you about was last night when I watched Deepwater Horizon there is a really dark scene on the rig when he is using a flashlight in a dark passageway. The flashlight just jumped off the screen and it almost felt as if the flashlight was shining into the room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Would you mind sharing the settings you ended up with?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## bullpuss

I have owned this projector for about 2 months now........i have read all the comments in this thread valid or not. Folks i must say for the money this sell for this is the best projector out there. I have demo a JVC and Sony at the $3999.99 price point and none of them prove to me they are worth $1000 more *in my oppinion*. Thanks to Mike from AV- Science one of the best in the business i think i made the right choice.......i own a large collection of bluray coupled with my Pioneer BDP-62FD this projector really shines. One thing though i need a screen to match it with... that is great but not too expensive preferable under $1200 any suggestion from the forum will be appreciated.Thanks again Mike you are the man.....big up AV-Science number 1 place to get this projector.


----------



## SALadder22FF

I have an Xbox One original...day one edition...it has a blu ray player, but every time I try it the sound is slightly behind the video...very distracting to see the sound not match up with the people talking. Has anyone run into this problem with the player or projector not matching up the video and the sound? Any ideas on what might cause this? 

I need a 4k player anyways, but wanted to use the Xbox for a little while.


----------



## Oledurt

seplant said:


> Would you mind sharing the settings you ended up with?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk




I recommend using the Natural setting with the custom gamma settings found in this thread. Expanded video range and HDR 2. Calibrate brightness, contrast, and color saturation I use Disney WOW for this.

I do not use HDR 1 because it clips the whites bad you can see this if you watch the shallows UHD the sea foam as the waves roll over.

I also use Digital Cinema as well, but since I tweaked the natural settings with the custom gamma and used the settings above I get a very very good picture. 

Give it a try and let me know what you think.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

Oledurt said:


> I recommend using the Natural setting with the custom gamma settings found in this thread. Expanded video range and HDR 2. Calibrate brightness, contrast, and color saturation I use Disney WOW for this.
> 
> I do not use HDR 1 because it clips the whites bad you can see this if you watch the shallows UHD the sea foam as the waves roll over.
> 
> I also use Digital Cinema as well, but since I tweaked the natural settings with the custom gamma and used the settings above I get a very very good picture.
> 
> Give it a try and let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Where did you end up at on your brightness, contrast, and color saturation settings?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## v8maro

SALadder22FF said:


> I have an Xbox One original...day one edition...it has a blu ray player, but every time I try it the sound is slightly behind the video...very distracting to see the sound not match up with the people talking. Has anyone run into this problem with the player or projector not matching up the video and the sound? Any ideas on what might cause this?
> 
> I need a 4k player anyways, but wanted to use the Xbox for a little while.


I turned my xb1 and power brick into MS @ the MS Store and got $100 credit, bought an XB1s for $150 more, came with another controller and 2 games.


----------



## Oledurt

seplant said:


> Where did you end up at on your brightness, contrast, and color saturation settings?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk




Brightness 38
Contrast 81
Color Saturation 56
Tint 49

Medium Lamp Mode
Auto Iris Normal

My projector is 15 feet away throwing onto a 125 inch 1.1 gain Cinemascope screen in a light controlled room (no ambient light)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Ryan0751 said:


> I'm considering upgrading from my trusty 5.5 year old Epson 8700UB to the 5040UB or 5040UBE.
> 
> 
> 
> But, I have some concerns. I apologize if this is a bit long, but please be patient as I'll get back to the 5040UB/UBE discussion by the end
> 
> 
> 
> Just to give some background, I live in a loft.
> 
> 
> 
> In my living space, I have a standard LCD TV for daytime viewing, with my projection screen mounted above:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PJ is hanging from the ceiling on a long pole mount:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The PJ gets it's HDMI using a CAT6 cable running through conduit to the front of the room and an HDMI balun extender.
> 
> 
> 
> Recently I've made some upgrades to the system. First, I swapped out my receiver for a Yamaha RX-V860 which has HDMI 2.0a and HDCP 2.2 support. It also has dual HDMI outputs, so I can easily have my TV and PJ both connected up to my system (with my old receiver I had to use an HDMI splitter).
> 
> 
> 
> I also added an XBox One S and upgraded my PS4 to the PS4 Pro with the hopes of moving to 4K soon. I "cut the cord" last year, so I stream and now use the XBox One with tuner and OTA antenna for local channels. Everything was working just fine (in 1080p of course).
> 
> 
> 
> I then swapped out my TV (an older Samsung 46") for the one pictured, a Sony 55" 930d. This is when I started having big issues.
> 
> 
> 
> With both HDMI outputs enabled (to the TV and PJ), my PJ video cuts out constantly (every 10-30s). I got around this problem by setting the receiver to output only to the PJ when using the PJ activities (Harmony Elite remote), and only to the TV when using TV activities, etc. Great!
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have HDCP 2.2 problems. The XBox One S will display just fine on my TV, but won't display on my PJ (the receiver pops up an HDCP 2.2 error).
> 
> 
> 
> So now, this is where I'm thinking about the 5040UB/UBE. Ideally I had hoped to wait a bit longer to see what happens with the 4K space an native support on PJ's. But, I think the 5040UB may still be an upgrade from my existing PJ and be more than good enough for my middle aged eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm interested in the UBE wireless model, but I read in one Amazon review the wireless doesn't support HDR? And I've of course read many things on this thread that HDR doesn't work well with most sources anyway. If I don't go with the UBE, I need to figure out how to get the HDMI to my PJ. There are 4K baluns on Monoprice that do 4K at 30Hz, but of course not HDR. I'm not sure if I even need HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> More concerning, if you use the wireless transmitter, does the receiver "see" it as HDCP 2.2 compliant? I want to avoid the problems I have with my existing setup. I presume making everything in the path HDCP 2.2 will fix most of them. Anyone else running a setup like mine?
> 
> 
> 
> If you have any suggestions here I'd really appreciate it! These issues have been driving me nuts, I am kind of regretting making changes to my previously working setup.



I don't have my 5040UBe anymore, but the wireless system is indeed fully HDCP 2.2 and will indeed pass 4K HDR without issue. In fact, the wireless transmitter unit accepts MORE signals than the projector's wired HDCP 2.2 HDMI input does. 

If you bypass the wireless TX and go straight to the projector with HDMI then it's the exact same projector as a standard 5040UB. Only difference is the wireless receiver built into it.


----------



## Ryan0751

Dave Harper said:


> I don't have my 5040UBe anymore, but the wireless system is indeed fully HDCP 2.2 and will indeed pass 4K HDR without issue. In fact, the wireless transmitter unit accepts MORE signals than the projector's wired HDCP 2.2 HDMI input does.
> 
> If you bypass the wireless TX and go straight to the projector with HDMI then it's the exact same projector as a standard 5040UB. Only difference is the wireless receiver built into it.


Cool, thanks! I will give it a try I think.


----------



## dvdwilly3

You can file this one under FWIW, but I thought that it was worth sharing.
If someone had just told me about it, I would not have believed it...but, there you go.

I went downstairs to watch a movie today on my Epson 6040...excellent projector!
I pushed the "Watch Movie" button on my Harmony remote and waited for everything
to spin up...no picture. Looked up at the projector...no lights. What!!

Oh, man...not one of those! Maybe it isn't. Tried the Epson remote itself. No response.
Then, climbed on a chair and tried the button on the body. No response. This cannot be!

So, troubleshoot it. It isn't getting power, unplug from receptacle, wait 20 seconds, plug it back in,
and cycle back thru. Nothing! So, nothing from the outlet. Check the breakers...no issue. Try another
outlet, so I get my yard extension cable, run it to an outlet on a separate circuit just in case, and...
Nothing!.

Okay, the projector power cord is next. Get a replacement power cord and plug it in, and...blue lights!
What!!

When I originally installed my Sony projector, I had bought a Monster Cable Powerline 200 power cord which
was built like a tank. It could never go bad, right? So when I replaced the Sony with my new Epson 6040, 
I kept the Monster Cable Powerline 200 power cable and used it with my new Epson 6040. 

The MC was built like a tank...what could go wrong? It is never moved except to plug it into the receptacle 
and unplug it. So, I went thru a series of unplugging and re-plugging with the MC Powerline and the replacement
power cord (Tripplite, FWIW...).

MC Powerline, no power. Tripplite, power.

This is sort of beyond logic--when I was telling my wife about it, she said, "But, a power cord can't go bad...can it?"

Previously, I would have smiled and said, "No, dear." 

Now, not so much...


----------



## spirithockey79

dvdwilly3 said:


> You can file this one under FWIW, but I thought that it was worth sharing.
> If someone had just told me about it, I would not have believed it...but, there you go.
> 
> I went downstairs to watch a movie today on my Epson 6040...excellent projector!
> I pushed the "Watch Movie" button on my Harmony remote and waited for everything
> to spin up...no picture. Looked up at the projector...no lights. What!!
> 
> Oh, man...not one of those! Maybe it isn't. Tried the Epson remote itself. No response.
> Then, climbed on a chair and tried the button on the body. No response. This cannot be!
> 
> So, troubleshoot it. It isn't getting power, unplug from receptacle, wait 20 seconds, plug it back in,
> and cycle back thru. Nothing! So, nothing from the outlet. Check the breakers...no issue. Try another
> outlet, so I get my yard extension cable, run it to an outlet on a separate circuit just in case, and...
> Nothing!.
> 
> Okay, the projector power cord is next. Get a replacement power cord and plug it in, and...blue lights!
> What!!
> 
> When I originally installed my Sony projector, I had bought a Monster Cable Powerline 200 power cord which
> was built like a tank. It could never go bad, right? So when I replaced the Sony with my new Epson 6040,
> I kept the Monster Cable Powerline 200 power cable and used it with my new Epson 6040.
> 
> The MC was built like a tank...what could go wrong? It is never moved except to plug it into the receptacle
> and unplug it. So, I went thru a series of unplugging and re-plugging with the MC Powerline and the replacement
> power cord (Tripplite, FWIW...).
> 
> MC Powerline, no power. Tripplite, power.
> 
> This is sort of beyond logic--when I was telling my wife about it, she said, "But, a power cord can't go bad...can it?"
> 
> Previously, I would have smiled and said, "No, dear."
> 
> Now, not so much...




Thanks for sharing, definitely good to know!


----------



## spirithockey79

Smarty-pants said:


> I'd give Oppo a bit more time to tweak their software. I know it's frustrating after buying it and now having to wait on certain features,
> 
> but it will be worth it in the end.
> 
> 
> 
> As far as comparing to the Panasonic, the Panny does have sharpening techniques embedded in it's coding.
> 
> You can get an equal image on the Oppo if you play with enhancement settings in player and projector.
> 
> Oppo strives to get the most accurate image that comes from the source material while also offering things
> 
> like upsampling and upscaling and such, but they will never alter an image against the users will,
> 
> even if it does look good, they cater to videophile/audiophile demographic and try to keep things pure if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> When it comes to HDR I think the 5040 does quite well actually.
> 
> You really do need to have different memory settings for different things.
> 
> I can enjoy all aspects of it with the P3 filter modes, except sometimes when a movie is really dark in general
> 
> and is zoomed out to fill my 115" Cinemascope screen. Then HDR gets a bit underwhelming and I either use Strip Metadata
> 
> in the Oppo or use Bright Cinema in the 5040. I am still tweaking things constantly with the 5040 as time permits but as any
> 
> owner knows it isn't easy since things like HDR and fluctuating output from movie to movie can vary so much.




Thanks for the perspective!


----------



## sddp

dvdwilly3 said:


> You can file this one under FWIW, but I thought that it was worth sharing.
> If someone had just told me about it, I would not have believed it...but, there you go.
> 
> I went downstairs to watch a movie today on my Epson 6040...excellent projector!
> I pushed the "Watch Movie" button on my Harmony remote and waited for everything
> to spin up...no picture. Looked up at the projector...no lights. What!!
> 
> Oh, man...not one of those! Maybe it isn't. Tried the Epson remote itself. No response.
> Then, climbed on a chair and tried the button on the body. No response. This cannot be!
> 
> So, troubleshoot it. It isn't getting power, unplug from receptacle, wait 20 seconds, plug it back in,
> and cycle back thru. Nothing! So, nothing from the outlet. Check the breakers...no issue. Try another
> outlet, so I get my yard extension cable, run it to an outlet on a separate circuit just in case, and...
> Nothing!.
> 
> Okay, the projector power cord is next. Get a replacement power cord and plug it in, and...blue lights!
> What!!
> 
> When I originally installed my Sony projector, I had bought a Monster Cable Powerline 200 power cord which
> was built like a tank. It could never go bad, right? So when I replaced the Sony with my new Epson 6040,
> I kept the Monster Cable Powerline 200 power cable and used it with my new Epson 6040.
> 
> The MC was built like a tank...what could go wrong? It is never moved except to plug it into the receptacle
> and unplug it. So, I went thru a series of unplugging and re-plugging with the MC Powerline and the replacement
> power cord (Tripplite, FWIW...).
> 
> MC Powerline, no power. Tripplite, power.
> 
> This is sort of beyond logic--when I was telling my wife about it, she said, "But, a power cord can't go bad...can it?"
> 
> Previously, I would have smiled and said, "No, dear."
> 
> Now, not so much...





That is strange. Did you try the MC cord on some other device, even a computer to see if it works?
If the cord went bad, I believe Monster will replace it, life time warranty on their higher end products. I use the same 200 cord for a decade on pro audio gear and never had an issue.


----------



## bezlar

dvdwilly3 said:


> You can file this one under FWIW, but I thought that it was worth sharing.
> If someone had just told me about it, I would not have believed it...but, there you go.
> 
> I went downstairs to watch a movie today on my Epson 6040...excellent projector!
> I pushed the "Watch Movie" button on my Harmony remote and waited for everything
> to spin up...no picture. Looked up at the projector...no lights. What!!
> 
> Oh, man...not one of those! Maybe it isn't. Tried the Epson remote itself. No response.
> Then, climbed on a chair and tried the button on the body. No response. This cannot be!
> 
> So, troubleshoot it. It isn't getting power, unplug from receptacle, wait 20 seconds, plug it back in,
> and cycle back thru. Nothing! So, nothing from the outlet. Check the breakers...no issue. Try another
> outlet, so I get my yard extension cable, run it to an outlet on a separate circuit just in case, and...
> Nothing!.
> 
> Okay, the projector power cord is next. Get a replacement power cord and plug it in, and...blue lights!
> What!!
> 
> When I originally installed my Sony projector, I had bought a Monster Cable Powerline 200 power cord which
> was built like a tank. It could never go bad, right? So when I replaced the Sony with my new Epson 6040,
> I kept the Monster Cable Powerline 200 power cable and used it with my new Epson 6040.
> 
> The MC was built like a tank...what could go wrong? It is never moved except to plug it into the receptacle
> and unplug it. So, I went thru a series of unplugging and re-plugging with the MC Powerline and the replacement
> power cord (Tripplite, FWIW...).
> 
> MC Powerline, no power. Tripplite, power.
> 
> This is sort of beyond logic--when I was telling my wife about it, she said, "But, a power cord can't go bad...can it?"
> 
> Previously, I would have smiled and said, "No, dear."
> 
> Now, not so much...




I also use that plug. I had to shave some of the plastic off of the outer housing to make it work with the epson. I used utility knife. Works great now. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## brianlvi3

Hey guys,

I have the 5040UBE but using 35 foot Celerity cable. Marantz 7702mkii and Oppo 203. I have watched a few movies both bluray and 4k. Pictures looks good, better on some, not the greatest on others. TV is average at best. I am coming from a 5020 PJ. I have not touched any settings as of yet.

I have been trying to keep up reading this thread but kind of fell behind. All settings are set to the way they came. 

Can someone give me a starting point for settings for;

4K movies
Bluray
TV watching

I am using a 90 inch screen with PJ around 9 feet away and looking for a starting point. Thanks!!!


----------



## aaranddeeman

brianlvi3 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I have the 5040UBE but using 35 foot Celerity cable. Marantz 7702mkii and Oppo 203. I have watched a few movies both bluray and 4k. Pictures looks good, better on some, not the greatest on others. TV is average at best. I am coming from a 5020 PJ. I have not touched any settings as of yet.
> 
> I have been trying to keep up reading this thread but kind of fell behind. All settings are set to the way they came.
> 
> Can someone give me a starting point for settings for;
> 
> 4K movies
> Bluray
> TV watching
> 
> I am using a 90 inch screen with PJ around 9 feet away and looking for a starting point. Thanks!!!



You can take a look at signature of @dvdwilly3 or mine (see below)..
There are also few more posts with various settings. Try and see what you like.
A lot depends on your room and environment, so best would be to calibrate yourself.
But as a starting point you can start at these.


----------



## gene4ht

dvdwilly3 said:


> You can file this one under FWIW, but I thought that it was worth sharing.
> If someone had just told me about it, I would not have believed it...but, there you go.





bezlar said:


> I also use that plug. I had to shave some of the plastic off of the outer housing to make it work with the epson. I used utility knife. Works great now.


FWIW II...

I initially tested the 5040 mounted on a table with it's own power cord...A-OK. I then had an experience similar to yours when I later ceiling mounted the PJ. Not wanting to run a new power cord through the ceiling, I decided just to use the cord from my previous PJ. The Epson would not power on until I used the Epson cord. As I knew the old PJ cord was good, I just chalked it up to perhaps a peculiar/proprietary physical match up between the PJ's male prongs and the female end of the A/C cord and never pursued it any further....Hmmm?


----------



## aaranddeeman

gene4ht said:


> FWIW II...
> 
> I initially tested the 5040 mounted on a table with it's own power cord...A-OK. I then had an experience similar to yours when I later ceiling mounted the PJ. Not wanting to run a new power cord through the ceiling, I decided just to use the cord from my previous PJ. The Epson would not power on until I used the Epson cord. As I knew the old PJ cord was good, I just chalked it up to perhaps a peculiar/proprietary physical match up between the PJ's male prongs and the female end of the A/C cord and never pursued it any further....Hmmm?


I did not use the cord that came with Epson and using the old that was already there. So far it's good though.


----------



## dvdwilly3

gene4ht said:


> FWIW II...
> 
> I initially tested the 5040 mounted on a table with it's own power cord...A-OK. I then had an experience similar to yours when I later ceiling mounted the PJ. Not wanting to run a new power cord through the ceiling, I decided just to use the cord from my previous PJ. The Epson would not power on until I used the Epson cord. As I knew the old PJ cord was good, I just chalked it up to perhaps a peculiar/proprietary physical match up between the PJ's male prongs and the female end of the A/C cord and never pursued it any further....Hmmm?


One thing that I failed to mention...the 6040 had been running just fine off of the Monster Cable since mid-October, so in my case it was not incompatibility between the Epson and a foreign-make cable...

It just stopped working...


----------



## gene4ht

aaranddeeman said:


> I did not use the cord that came with Epson and using the old that was already there. So far it's good though.


Apparently it's an issue with some a/c cords but not others....just not making proper physical contact with some cords.


----------



## gene4ht

dvdwilly3 said:


> One thing that I failed to mention...the 6040 had been running just fine off of the Monster Cable since mid-October, so in my case it was not incompatibility between the Epson and a foreign-make cable...
> 
> It just stopped working...


Hmmm....puzzling!


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Looking for anyone else with a gaming PC attached to their projector who's also using the wireless mode of the UBe. I'm trying to isolate the behavior I'm experiencing.

Gaming PC is attached to my Denon AVR S920W via HDMI, which is then connected via HDMI to the wireless transmission unit that comes with the UBe. When the PCs desktop resolution is set to [email protected], I'll get annoying signal dropouts. It seems like an issue with the projector, but the wireless signal to the projector is always at 100% (direct line of sight, 12 feet from projector). It doesn't seem to happen when I'm playing media (movies, games), only when I'm doing stuff on the desktop.

It's not a huge issue. I can drop the desktop resolution to 1080p, which is better for usability anyway. Some games, however, only seem to recognize that the system is connected to a 4k capable display when the desktop resolution is set to 4k, otherwise they max out at 1080p. Just want to try to find out if it's something going on with the projector, or if it's being caused by something else in the chain.


----------



## audvid

I am reposting a post I made in another thread:
First of all, I am no expert in Video.. Just very experienced. My home theatre was built 21 years ago. My first projection TV was 35 years ago - a 2 piece unit.
I am not sensitive to color correction or gamma changes. I would not even know, if there is a gamma drift.
My current projector is a sony qualia 004 since many years and prior was 9" CRT. I appreciate the amazing lens that the Qualia has.. The picture is clear and rich (Xenon lamp). I thought it might be time to "upgrade". My recent experience has shown me that I can wait for a while and I am not missing anything - because 95% of my viewing is 2k Dish channels. 

There are so many experts here on the forum and I am making the following observations as being just a "layman's" opinion. 


Today, I viewed Sony hw45es, epson 4040 and Jvc x550. I had also seen, with the same channel, a 85" Sony lcd TV ($8000). 

1. What i saw and commented about, on the sony 350 screen door effect was because of the screen. I saw the same here, on one of the screens. 
2. *Both the Epson 4040 and the jvc 550 have scaling artifacts.* As did the Sony TV.
3. The sony 45 had no scaling/digital artifacts - probably because it was 1080p.
4. JVC and Epson did not seem to have scaling artifacts, with 4k Source. I did not watch much of 4k today. I switched right away to 2k fox hd. 
5. The "cheap lens" factor was very obvious to me. The picture is not crisp/clean and colors were not rich. Contrast was quite good, on both jvc and epson - but then, it is not a great comparison, because I don't think there were calibrated or set carefully. 

While the Epson and the jvc, with 2k Dish source, did have scaling artifacts and some posterization, they were better than what I saw with the Sony 350 yesterday. Having said that, it is possible that there is something wrong with that particular Sony 350, which I saw - either with the source or the projector itself. I cannot believe that the Sony would be so obviously bad. 

My over all conclusion - If I were going to buy a projector, *the Epson 5040 seems the best value. At $3000 list, I cant see any justification to buy the JVC eshift or Sony 4k (at 3 to 5 times the price?*). 

I wish I could see a sony 1000. I would expect it to have an amazing clarity, because of its lens.


----------



## Evan201

bullpuss said:


> I have owned this projector for about 2 months now........i have read all the comments in this thread valid or not. Folks i must say for the money this sell for this is the best projector out there. I have demo a JVC and Sony at the $3999.99 price point and none of them prove to me they are worth $1000 more *in my oppinion*. Thanks to Mike from AV- Science one of the best in the business i think i made the right choice.......i own a large collection of bluray coupled with my Pioneer BDP-62FD this projector really shines. One thing though i need a screen to match it with... that is great but not too expensive preferable under $1200 any suggestion from the forum will be appreciated.Thanks again Mike you are the man.....big up AV-Science number 1 place to get this projector.


I'm using the Cinegrey 5d designer cut with my own 105" custom frame job. The Epson 5040ub looks stunning on it in my opinion. My matte white wall is brighter, but the cinegrey 5d seems extremely accurate for my tastes.


----------



## aaranddeeman

audvid said:


> While the Epson and the jvc, with 2k Dish source, did have scaling artifacts and some posterization, they were better than what I saw with the Sony 350 yesterday.


Using TV STB (or any streaming device/app) as a source to determine display quality should be avoided.
Just use a decent blu ray player to make the determination.
I know you have already concluded, but just sayin..


----------



## audvid

aaranddeeman said:


> Using TV STB ...as a source to determine display quality should be avoided.
> Just use a decent blu ray player to make the determination.
> I know you have already concluded, but just sayin..


Except for people like me, who watch Satellite, 95% of the time. Most people use their projector/theatre rooms for movie watching. I am among the extremely few, who uses a 150" wide screen as a regular TV. I don't use flat screen tV. 
Btw, yesterday, I saw a Sony 85". The picture is amazing, of course. It did have scaling artifacts but no projector can compete with it. Unfortunately, my room is too big for that TV - or else, I would be switching to a 85" TV, rather than a projector.


----------



## aaranddeeman

audvid said:


> Except for people like me, who watch Satellite, 95% of the time. Most people use their projector/theatre rooms for movie watching. I am among the extremely few, who uses a 150" wide screen as a regular TV. I don't use flat screen tV.
> Btw, yesterday, I saw a Sony 85". The picture is amazing, of course. It did have scaling artifacts but no projector can compete with it. Unfortunately, my room is too big for that TV - or else, I would be switching to a 85" TV, rather than a projector.


You may have missed my point.
I was just saying to use a medium as source that does not introduce any compression or any such thing that will make you conclude the display is bad. In reality it could be weird processing at the source.


----------



## Eric McEntee

*Another FWIW post...*

Bought a 5040ub to replace a 5030ub last week - and love it so far. The 5030 was no slouch, but this new one is great.

This is not meant to stir things up and solicit "Read the all the post in the thread" replies but I've read through almost all of the posts, other forums, etc and got HDR fatigue so I sent a note to Epson asking about my combo (Denon X3300W, PS4 Pro, 5040ub) and what I'd need to do for HDR either via disc or streaming.

I was getting no HDR luck with a Roku Premiere+ and Netflix and just wanted to see if they could tell me what I was doing wrong. Asked about the HD Fury Linker (still learning if this helps or just causes banding...) and got this response about a few specific devices from Epson I wanted to share. 

Seems to me researching the HD Fury Linker, waiting to see if there is a PS4 firmware some day, or just being happy (I am) with 4k streaming and gaming. It's not a huge deal to me - love the projector as is.



_Thank you for your inquiry. Yes HDR is confusing. Here's a list of compatible devices that will do HDR with our Epson 5040ub. _
_Samsung K8500 with latest fw version (please check with Samsung for this)_
_Panasonic UBZ1_
_Panasonic UB900_
_Phillips BDP7501_

_These do not support HDR but will display the 4k output resolution. HDR may require a a firmware update in the future by these manufacturers for it to work with our projector. We have no info on this and you'd need to reach out to each company regarding this_

_Microsoft Xbox One_
_Nvidia Shield_
_Sony PS4 Pro_
_Google Chromecast Ultra_

_Please reach out to your fellow AVSforum members as they may have tested other sources and have additional settings they may have found._


Best of luck to everyone trying to decipher this to fit your needs and setup!


EDIT - 

Just found this on a Roku forum (https://forums.roku.com/viewtopic.php?t=96956&start=15):
_
Starting in 7.5.1 b4085, we are offering a new feature on a secret screen which may help with color banding on some TVs in 4K HDR mode. Not all units are eligible for this build yet, but if yours is try going to the HDMI secret screen using this key combination:

HOME HOME HOME HOME HOME DOWN LEFT UP UP UP

Try toggling your HDR mode from 4:2:2 to 4:2:0. This will also change you from 12 bit color to 10 bit color.

Please note this option is only for HDR mode, not regular 4K mode._


----------



## Dave Harper

audvid said:


> Except for people like me, who watch Satellite, 95% of the time. Most people use their projector/theatre rooms for movie watching. I am among the extremely few, who uses a 150" wide screen as a regular TV. I don't use flat screen tV.
> Btw, yesterday, I saw a Sony 85". The picture is amazing, of course. It did have scaling artifacts but no projector can compete with it. Unfortunately, my room is too big for that TV - or else, I would be switching to a 85" TV, rather than a projector.



See this:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=49974641#/topics/2644161?page=61&_k=g8h1k6


----------



## ac388

Hi Dave,

Epson 5040 n Oppo 203 : I bet quite a few people are having this combo nowadays, n I have a stupid question to ask. Due to the chip limitation on 5040, does it matter if I get a 2.0(18Gbps) HDMI cable or not, since they are now showing 'BT2020 4:2:2 12bit HDR2' for UHD Bluray movies at 24 frames with a 1.4(10.2Gpbs) cable. So, if I play a 4K video file at 60 frames, things will be downmix n I won't be able to get the same or better spec., even if I have a 2.0 HDMI cable, right ??? Thanks for your input in advance.

P.S. My cable length is 10M n it is connected directly between the above 2 units.


----------



## exm

Eric McEntee said:


> Bought a 5040ub to replace a 5030ub last week - and love it so far. The 5030 was no slouch, but this new one is great.
> 
> This is not meant to stir things up and solicit "Read the all the post in the thread" replies but I've read through almost all of the posts, other forums, etc and got HDR fatigue so I sent a note to Epson asking about my combo (Denon X3300W, PS4 Pro, 5040ub) and what I'd need to do for HDR either via disc or streaming.
> 
> I was getting no HDR luck with a Roku Premiere+ and Netflix and just wanted to see if they could tell me what I was doing wrong. Asked about the HD Fury Linker (still learning if this helps or just causes banding...) and got this response about a few specific devices from Epson I wanted to share.
> 
> Seems to me researching the HD Fury Linker, waiting to see if there is a PS4 firmware some day, or just being happy (I am) with 4k streaming and gaming. It's not a huge deal to me - love the projector as is.
> 
> 
> 
> _Thank you for your inquiry. Yes HDR is confusing. Here's a list of compatible devices that will do HDR with our Epson 5040ub. _
> _Samsung K8500 with latest fw version (please check with Samsung for this)_
> _Panasonic UBZ1_
> _Panasonic UB900_
> _Phillips BDP7501_
> 
> _These do not support HDR but will display the 4k output resolution. HDR may require a a firmware update in the future by these manufacturers for it to work with our projector. We have no info on this and you'd need to reach out to each company regarding this_
> 
> _Microsoft Xbox One_
> _Nvidia Shield_
> _Sony PS4 Pro_
> _Google Chromecast Ultra_
> 
> _Please reach out to your fellow AVSforum members as they may have tested other sources and have additional settings they may have found._
> 
> 
> Best of luck to everyone trying to decipher this to fit your needs and setup!
> 
> 
> EDIT -
> 
> Just found this on a Roku forum (https://forums.roku.com/viewtopic.php?t=96956&start=15):
> _
> Starting in 7.5.1 b4085, we are offering a new feature on a secret screen which may help with color banding on some TVs in 4K HDR mode. Not all units are eligible for this build yet, but if yours is try going to the HDMI secret screen using this key combination:
> 
> HOME HOME HOME HOME HOME DOWN LEFT UP UP UP
> 
> Try toggling your HDR mode from 4:2:2 to 4:2:0. This will also change you from 12 bit color to 10 bit color.
> 
> Please note this option is only for HDR mode, not regular 4K mode._


Did this work for you to enable HDR on the Roku?


----------



## exm

audvid said:


> Except for people like me, who watch Satellite, 95% of the time. Most people use their projector/theatre rooms for movie watching. I am among the extremely few, who uses a 150" wide screen as a regular TV. I don't use flat screen tV.
> Btw, yesterday, I saw a Sony 85". The picture is amazing, of course. It did have scaling artifacts but no projector can compete with it. Unfortunately, my room is too big for that TV - or else, I would be switching to a 85" TV, rather than a projector.


I'm with you! I have a 103" with a 6040 watching DVR 90% of the time. Unfortunately 65" is affordable but anything higher comes into projector territory. My 6040 came with the extra bulb so in a few years I might consider swapping it out for a flat screen television - but I need at least 85"!


----------



## Eric McEntee

exm said:


> Did this work for you to enable HDR on the Roku?


The menu is a bit thrown together. It seems like once you get in, it displays some stats about what resolutions are supported, and then has a single button called HDR 4:2:2.

If you click it, the screen goes black, but there is still audio. The only way to get back is to repeat the key sequence and hope you did it right and you'll see the menu again.

As I read more about this - it seems like the Premier+ (I would assume the Ultra too) - do support HDR 4:2:0 (I think that's right) at 30fps. This button seemed to be a way to toggle HDR 4:2:2 on, which the projector can't do - hence the black screen.

I use a PS4 Pro, and the Netflix app does 4k, as does Amazon - so for me not much of a difference. I'll be returning the Roku and putting that money toward one of the UHD players that works with the 5040 instead.


----------



## siuengr

Eric McEntee said:


> The menu is a bit thrown together. It seems like once you get in, it displays some stats about what resolutions are supported, and then has a single button called HDR 4:2:2.
> 
> If you click it, the screen goes black, but there is still audio. The only way to get back is to repeat the key sequence and hope you did it right and you'll see the menu again.
> 
> As I read more about this - it seems like the Premier+ (I would assume the Ultra too) - do support HDR 4:2:0 (I think that's right) at 30fps. This button seemed to be a way to toggle HDR 4:2:2 on, which the projector can't do - hence the black screen.
> 
> I use a PS4 Pro, and the Netflix app does 4k, as does Amazon - so for me not much of a difference. I'll be returning the Roku and putting that money toward one of the UHD players that works with the 5040 instead.


I agree, do not try this trick with the Roku. I did, and got stuck on the black screen for a while before getting the key sequence right to convert it back. I thought the default is 4:2:2 12 bit, per the Roku forum, which the Epson should support at 24Hz. I think both should work, unless the Roku is trying to push 4:2:0 10 bit @ 60hz. A lot of people see banding at 4:2:2 12 bit, so they are forcing 4:2:0 10 bit on other displays. For me, the 5040 only show 8 bit on the info from the Roku even if it says BT2020 and HDR. Somehting doesn't seem right.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-networking-media-servers-content-streaming/2604017-official-roku-4k-hdr-premiere-ultra-owners-thread-87.html#post49662313


----------



## gnolivos

Eric McEntee said:


> I use a PS4 Pro, and the Netflix app does 4k, as does Amazon - so for me not much of a difference. I'll be returning the Roku and putting that money toward one of the UHD players that works with the 5040 instead.



Can you triple check? My PS4 pro can NOT display 4k from Amazon app. I'm pretty sure the amazon app is not coded for 4k yet. 

Only Netflix and YouTube.


----------



## Eric McEntee

gnolivos said:


> Can you triple check? My PS4 pro can NOT display 4k from Amazon app. I'm pretty sure the amazon app is not coded for 4k yet.
> 
> Only Netflix and YouTube.


Sure thing, I'll post a pic tonight - could be I am misinterpreting.


----------



## HarleyRider

exm said:


> I'm with you! I have a 103" with a 6040 watching DVR 90% of the time. Unfortunately 65" is affordable but anything higher comes into projector territory. My 6040 came with the extra bulb so in a few years I might consider swapping it out for a flat screen television - but I need at least 85"!


Yup, same here. 106" as our only TV, probably 90% DirecTV, 5% Netflix, 5% Bluray. Wife and I look at the 70+ inch flat screens at Costco/Sam's all the time and she's the one that always says, "Yeah, but that's not as cool as the projector and the big screen you have now. That's puny." 

Now that I've upgraded from the Sony 40ES to the 5040ub and the new Panny UB900 we'll be watching a lot more Bluray and a lot more 4K Netflix -- as soon as I figure out all the settings. Between the Epson and the Panny, the array of options and settings is mind-boggling...


----------



## Striper Mark

Hey all - New to the whole projector world and just starting my research. Will the 5040UB work with about a 10 foot throw and a 100" length screen? Projector.com puts that ratio in the red, but I'm not sure if that means it's not advisable or won't work. Will be watching mostly movies in darkened basement. Also, is the wireless option worth it to not run an HDMI cable 30 feet.
Thanks!!


----------



## bluer101

Striper Mark said:


> Hey all - New to the whole projector world and just starting my research. Will the 5040UB work with about a 10 foot throw and a 100" length screen? Projector.com puts that ratio in the red, but I'm not sure if that means it's not advisable or won't work. Will be watching mostly movies in darkened basement. Also, is the wireless option worth it to not run an HDMI cable 30 feet.
> Thanks!!


I believe I'm 10' 3" from my 100". Thats lens to screen.


----------



## Striper Mark

bluer101 said:


> I believe I'm 10' 3" from my 100". Thats lens to screen.


Thanks!


----------



## hckymstr19

*Epson 5040ub pixelation/grainy issue*

Hey guys brand new epson 5040 owner, literally just got it today and had to hook it up and see how it looked before work. I hooked it up straight from my ps4 pro and watched some of the 4k videos from YouTube and it looked amazing but on certain scenes I noticed pretty severe what looks like pixelation or grainyness usually in the sky when the color fades from like dark gray to white. I didn't have time to take a picture but another user posted exactly what I saw but it never really got answerd. I have attached a pic that shows what I saw. Again this isn't my image but it is exactly what I am getting. Let me know that you think guys


----------



## aaranddeeman

hckymstr19 said:


> Hey guys brand new epson 5040 owner, literally just got it today and had to hook it up and see how it looked before work. I hooked it up straight from my ps4 pro and watched some of the 4k videos from YouTube and it looked amazing but on certain scenes I noticed pretty severe what looks like pixelation or grainyness usually in the sky when the color fades from like dark gray to white. I didn't have time to take a picture but another user posted exactly what I saw but it never really got answerd. I have attached a pic that shows what I saw. Again this isn't my image but it is exactly what I am getting. Let me know that you think guys


Stop trusting streaming quality. Period.
Just put in a super quality blu-ray or UHD and then...


----------



## hckymstr19

aaranddeeman said:


> Stop trusting streaming quality. Period.
> Just put in a super quality blu-ray or UHD and then...


I'm glad to hear that because I don't want it to be an issue with the projector but the image I posted is from someone playing a UHD from a Samsung player. Can anyone explain what causes or what that jaggedyness is?


----------



## Ronman79

ndabunka said:


> The TW9300 that is black does not have the wireless option so logically the W stands for WIRELESS!
> 
> Just kidding. We have ALREADY been over this in the prior posts in this thread. I like the premise that the W stands for wireless AND white. In ths end that distrinction is miniscule when related to WHY the original inquiry was possed.
> 
> I stated that I thought that there was a wireless equivalent to the 6040 that was produced. Others said (nearly) flat out that I was crazy. What color that wireless version actually is, is simply a tertiary component.
> 
> Others verifying that there actually IS a wireless 6040 varient meets the measure of my original inquiry so thanks to the european and those down under for that confirmation.


Well, I didn't call you crazy, but I did state that there's no wireless 6040. There's no wireless 6040. 👍😆

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## rjguk

hckymstr19 said:


> I'm glad to hear that because I don't want it to be an issue with the projector but the image I posted is from someone playing a UHD from a Samsung player. Can anyone explain what causes or what that jaggedyness is?


That image looks like banding. That's when there isn't enough color information to make a smooth gradation between shades. Normally 8 bits is enough to get smooth color (that's what normal blu ray uses) but sometimes items in the playback chain get a bit inventive, so one box might be converting to 10 or 12 bits while another is taking that and converting it (badly) back to 8, or vice versa. Sometimes a source has 10 or 12 bits but something else is converting it, perhaps more than once. The end result of rounding the bits up or down or dithering between them can be unpredictable and is seldom as good as the original arrangements. Given that most players and displays have a myriad of settings for color depth and so on it isn't surprising that the image will end up strange if everything isn't set right.

Try a 'normal' BD or UHD BD source and you'll see that the projector does a fine job if the input is exactly what it expects. I've found that 'Auto' is a good setting for lots of things, it avoids trying to second-guess something without all the information... 

Regarding Youtube, a lot depends on what you are using to play it with. In any case 4k Youtube is going to be heavily compressed and you never know what the quality or specification of the video was before they uploaded the file (or what processing they did between where they got it from and that upload).


----------



## wbcollegekid

I recently purchased the new Nvidia Shield player, it allows you to change the frame rate of video to 24p. By doing this, I now get 4K HDR using Amazon and Netflix with my 5040UB. It also passes BT. [email protected], with no obvious banding. I have the PS4 Pro, new ChromeCast Ultra and Roku Ultra. None of these worked for both Amazon and Netflix.


----------



## Bejoy

I purchased the Epson 4040 and it is getting installed on Saturday (1/21). I am finally upgrading after almost 10 years


(current set-up is Mitsibishi HC6000 projector, Denon 3806 AVR, Deftech 7.1 speakers, Panasonic BDT500 bluray)




I am pairing the new Epson it with a new Marantz 7010 with a 7.2.4 setup with Deftech speakers (adding 4 ceiling for atmos).. I couldn't find a forum for the 4040, so I figured I could a couple of questions here:




--Is there anything else I need to get HDR to work on the Epson projector from the Panasonic UB900? (I think I read somewhere on here that the Philips plays better with the Epson?)
--How is gaming on the Xbox One S with the Epson (I am considering to get one, even though I already have the UB900...)


These are the items getting installed on Saturday, just want to see if I need to get anything else before then:


Epson 4040
Marantz 7010 (plus a 2 channel amp for rear atmos)
Deftech speakers (7.2.4)
Panasonic UB900
Roku Premiere Plus


(HDMI wise, I have 5 of the Monoprice Premium Certifed cables 18GBps and one Monoprice Cabernet 30 foot active cable - The installer said the current hdmi in the wall might work fine, so I may not need to upgrade the cable, will have to see when we install).


Thanks for any and all advice. (I have been reading this thread for a few days now in anticipation of the Epson. I am surprised not too many people have the 4040? I chose it since it is black. I could always get the Epson 5040 instead since it is not delivered yet though...)


Thanks!


----------



## hckymstr19

*Epson 5040ub banding*



rjguk said:


> That image looks like banding. That's when there isn't enough color information to make a smooth gradation between shades. Normally 8 bits is enough to get smooth color (that's what normal blu ray uses) but sometimes items in the playback chain get a bit inventive, so one box might be converting to 10 or 12 bits while another is taking that and converting it (badly) back to 8, or vice versa. Sometimes a source has 10 or 12 bits but something else is converting it, perhaps more than once. The end result of rounding the bits up or down or dithering between them can be unpredictable and is seldom as good as the original arrangements. Given that most players and displays have a myriad of settings for color depth and so on it isn't surprising that the image will end up strange if everything isn't set right.
> 
> Try a 'normal' BD or UHD BD source and you'll see that the projector does a fine job if the input is exactly what it expects. I've found that 'Auto' is a good setting for lots of things, it avoids trying to second-guess something without all the information...
> 
> Regarding Youtube, a lot depends on what you are using to play it with. In any case 4k Youtube is going to be heavily compressed and you never know what the quality or specification of the video was before they uploaded the file (or what processing they did between where they got it from and that upload).


So is there a way to ensure this doesn't happen or is kept to a minimum. Or does it all just come down to what material I am inputing into the projector?


----------



## Eric McEntee

gnolivos said:


> Can you triple check? My PS4 pro can NOT display 4k from Amazon app. I'm pretty sure the amazon app is not coded for 4k yet.
> 
> Only Netflix and YouTube.



So, my mistake here... Pretty sure the Amazon app is just 1080p, no indications otherwise. I misinterpreted the output from the PS4 when looking at the projector info.

Interested in the Nvdia shield post a few replies up from here...


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

wbcollegekid said:


> I recently purchased the new Nvidia Shield player, it allows you to change the frame rate of video to 24p. By doing this, I now get 4K HDR using Amazon and Netflix with my 5040UB. It also passes BT. [email protected], with no obvious banding. I have the PS4 Pro, new ChromeCast Ultra and Roku Ultra. None of these worked for both Amazon and Netflix.


That's good to hear! I've been tempted to pick up a Shield, and this might put me over. Do you have any experience streaming local PC games to your shield?


----------



## wbcollegekid

flapjackdowntheline said:


> That's good to hear! I've been tempted to pick up a Shield, and this might put me over. Do you have any experience streaming local PC games to your shield?


It worked pretty well. It was able to stream many games at 4K including GTA5 and Batman Arkham Knight. No hiccups, but I also have 1080 GTX SLI


----------



## Evan201

wbcollegekid said:


> I recently purchased the new Nvidia Shield player, it allows you to change the frame rate of video to 24p. By doing this, I now get 4K HDR using Amazon and Netflix with my 5040UB. It also passes BT. [email protected], with no obvious banding. I have the PS4 Pro, new ChromeCast Ultra and Roku Ultra. None of these worked for both Amazon and Netflix.


Very interested in this particular setup. Did you have to run any firmware updates to either the player or the projector? Any other specific steps you took other than changing the settings in the Nvidia Shield to 24fps? Is your player hooked up directly to the PJ or running through a switch? I'm using a 50' HDMI running through a Monoprice 4 port Switch to my 5040ub.


----------



## rjguk

hckymstr19 said:


> So is there a way to ensure this doesn't happen or is kept to a minimum. Or does it all just come down to what material I am inputing into the projector?


If you see banding then you need to consider what the replay chain and the settings are. Simpler is usually better, pushing to get HDR is often the cause of compromises in other PQ areas. I really can't say for sure because everybody's systems are different, but if you get such banding then something is not quite right. Sometimes a really good 1080p image is just so much better than a UHD HDR image, we really aren't there yet. Nearly there, but when it doesn't work it is worse. The trick is to find what does work.

Feeling philosophical - UHD/HDR is a work in progress, good with the bad...


----------



## Smarty-pants

^ Just to help clarify though... sometimes banding is unavoidable due to the coding of the source, or it can even be embedded into the
video coding of an optical disc or video file. So just because you sometimes see banding, doesn't mean something is wrong with your setup.
Sometimes yes, and sometimes not.


----------



## gene4ht

gene4ht said:


> ...was never really enthralled with 3D. However, since the capability is available with the 5040, it's something I would perhaps like to try now. Can 5040 owners confirm that a 3D module/dongle or any special screen capability is NOT required? These are two of the items that, in the past, held me back...





gnolivos said:


> Nothing other than glasses are required. Just keep in mind that the 4K enhancement cannot be switched on in 3D mode





Stecchino said:


> Welcome to world of 3D on a giant screen. It's awesome.
> 
> Now that you have the Epson, I'm happy to say that the 3D feature is quite mature and thankfully a bit of technology that generally "just works". On the 5040 specifically it is found that setting the 3D brightness setting to medium or low improves clarity. optionally compensate for the darker image by using 3D Dynamic color mode and perhaps high energy lamp mode.


Just a quick update to say I've officially joined the ranks of 5040 3D users...um aficionados. It took me several weeks from my original posting to now to finally find the time to set up the PJ, acquire a few 3D titles, test some 3D glasses and enjoy a movie. I can now say that 3D adds a new dimension to the PJ experience. I had always thought of 3D as a novelty and really didn't expect much. However, I can honestly say that 3D on this PJ has exceeded my expectations and is definitely worthwhile to set it up. For me, the darker image (not nearly as dark as HDR) that is associated with 3D can be mostly offset by using Stecchino's advice above. And relative to glasses, it may take a few trial pairs to find the ones most usable/compatible/comfortable for you. Again, Stecchino's review is a good start and very helpful. Keeping things in perspective, I fully understand that 3D has never really taken root and is being abandoned by many manufacturers...but why not take advantage of one of this PJ's features. Lastly, from a software or content perspective, I discovered that my local "Family Video" has several hundred titles available for "far less" than regular rentals. 

Finally, I do have a question for you seasoned users: What is ghosting and cross talk that I hear about? Are these image aberrations that are obvious? If so, I don't think I'm seeing any.


----------



## SALadder22FF

So I upgraded my DirecTV to 4k today and am running into some problems with the wireless UBe again. Earlier when I had the ROKU set to 4k UHD HDR it would lose the signal when trying to pick what resolution the youtube video was.

I was running directv through my xbox one and it would say my TV wasn't able to display the 4k signal and the info on the projector confirmed that. 

So, I plugged straight into the wireless hdmi port from directv and now all resolutions are supported. 

NOW when I change channels and it's picking between 1080i, 1080p and 4k the signal drops out.

How can I fix this??? it's crazy annoying...I besides buying an Xbox One S that can transmit the 4k...even then idk if it would fix the problem.

Please Help!


----------



## bluer101

Ghosting. 










Crosstalk.


----------



## RyanChristopher

gene4ht said:


> Just a quick update to say I've officially joined the ranks of 5040 3D users...um aficionados. It took me several weeks from my original posting to now to finally find the time to set up the PJ, acquire a few 3D titles, test some 3D glasses and enjoy a movie. I can now say that 3D adds a new dimension to the PJ experience. I had always thought of 3D as a novelty and really didn't expect much. However, I can honestly say that 3D on this PJ has exceeded my expectations and is definitely worthwhile to set it up. For me, the darker image (not nearly as dark as HDR) that is associated with 3D can be mostly offset by using Stecchino's advice above. And relative to glasses, it may take a few trial pairs to find the ones most usable/compatible/comfortable for you. Again, Stecchino's review is a good start and very helpful. Keeping things in perspective, I fully understand that 3D has never really taken root and is being abandoned by many manufacturers...but why not take advantage of one of this PJ's features. Lastly, from a software or content perspective, I discovered that my local "Family Video" has several hundred titles available for "far less" than regular rentals.
> 
> Finally, I do have a question for you seasoned users: What is ghosting and cross talk that I hear about? Are these image aberrations that are obvious? If so, I don't think I'm seeing any.




I have always been in the majority of people who love the 3D experience and have always believed that 3D must be dont on a projector. A TV screen in most cases is way to small to be fully immersed in the 3D experience. My 5040 gets delivered on Monday and was curious as to what 3D glasses you ended up liking the best?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## db999md

*Netflix HDR on Nvidia shield TV - confirmed*



wbcollegekid said:


> I recently purchased the new Nvidia Shield player, it allows you to change the frame rate of video to 24p. By doing this, I now get 4K HDR using Amazon and Netflix with my 5040UB. It also passes BT. [email protected], with no obvious banding. I have the PS4 Pro, new ChromeCast Ultra and Roku Ultra. None of these worked for both Amazon and Netflix.


I can confirm this. I have bought most of the 4k streamers to see what does everything the best: Samsung 8500 UHD blu-ray, XBOX One S, Roku premiere, and now the Nvidia Shield TV (the 1st gen version that is $199 at best buy now). I find that the Nvidia shield is the only one that will play netflix 4K HDR on the epson 5040ub. I bought the player today, and after it updated it's firmware, I had to go to the google play store and update the netflix app for it to do HDR. The netflix app that was loaded on the box when it came did not support HDR at all.


----------



## DonRSD

Any reason why the lens shift keeps moving?
Every few days I have to adjust my picture, as it moves. Its saved in the memory.

Any suggestions?


----------



## ac388

Dave maybe busy. Can anybody else help ? Thanks in advance.





ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Epson 5040 n Oppo 203 : I bet quite a few people are having this combo nowadays, n I have a stupid question to ask. Due to the chip limitation on 5040, does it matter if I get a 2.0(18Gbps) HDMI cable or not, since they are now showing 'BT2020 4:2:2 12bit HDR2' for UHD Bluray movies at 24 frames with a 1.4(10.2Gpbs) cable. So, if I play a 4K video file at 60 frames, things will be downmix n I won't be able to get the same or better spec., even if I have a 2.0 HDMI cable, right ??? Thanks for your input in advance.
> 
> P.S. My cable length is 10M n it is connected directly between the above 2 units.


----------



## k3nnis

db999md said:


> I can confirm this. I have bought most of the 4k streamers to see what does everything the best: Samsung 8500 UHD blu-ray, XBOX One S, Roku premiere, and now the Nvidia Shield TV (the 1st gen version that is $199 at best buy now). I find that the Nvidia shield is the only one that will play netflix 4K HDR on the epson 5040ub. I bought the player today, and after it updated it's firmware, I had to go to the google play store and update the netflix app for it to do HDR. The netflix app that was loaded on the box when it came did not support HDR at all.




How did you get HDR with the 5040? On Netflix. I thought the 5040 had issues with bandwidth limitation for the hdmi port?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## db999md

k3nnis said:


> How did you get HDR with the 5040? On Netflix. I thought the 5040 had issues with bandwidth limitation for the hdmi port?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The key is that on the Nvidia shield you can lock the output at 24hz in the device's settings - that setting overcomes the bandwidth limitation.


----------



## k3nnis

Oh ok. So does everything play correctly on Netflix at 24Hz? Are all content on Netflix 24Hz?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

bluer101 said:


> Ghosting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crosstalk.


Thanks for posting these visuals! I've also been reading up on the subject and I understand now that it's unavoidable for a number of reasons but there are also some things that can be done to minimize it's occurrences/effects. So far, I have not seen any examples in the content I have viewed.


----------



## gene4ht

RyanChristopher said:


> I have always been in the majority of people who love the 3D experience and have always believed that 3D must be dont on a projector.


I have to agree...3D on a screen >100" is necessary to properly exhibit it's immersive capabilities.



RyanChristopher said:


> A TV screen in most cases is way to small to be fully immersed in the 3D experience.


This is likely one of the primary reasons why 3D has never approached popular critical mass. A smaller screen just does not offer the same level/degree of immersion. Possibly, in the future when all common screen sizes exceed 100', 3D may make a return for round 3.



RyanChristopher said:


> My 5040 gets delivered on Monday and was curious as to what 3D glasses you ended up liking the best?


Congrats on your 5040...you will not be disappointed!

After reading the review by @*Stecchino* , I purchased the 3Active and ValueView glasses by Dimensional Optics. All the active glasses apparently will work with the 5040 but it really comes down to personal fit and comfort. My family and friends all preferred the ValueView so I returned the 3Actives and ordered additional ValueViews. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html


----------



## RyanChristopher

gene4ht said:


> I have to agree...3D on a screen >100" is necessary to properly exhibit it's immersive capabilities.
> 
> 
> 
> This is likely one of the primary reasons why 3D has never approached popular critical mass. A smaller screen just does not offer the same level/degree of immersion. Possibly, in the future when all common screen sizes exceed 100', 3D may make a return for round 3.
> 
> 
> 
> After reading the review by @Stecchino, I purchased the 3Active and ValueView glasses by Dimensional Optics. All the active glasses apparently will work with the 5040 but it really comes down to personal fit and comfort. My family and friends all preferred the ValueView so I returned the 3Actives and ordered additional ValueViews.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html




Thanks for the input and the link. I saw it posted earlier and read it then. I was leaning towards the ValueViews myself but figured I'd get another person's input and you just solidified made my decision to get the ValueViews. Thanks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

gene4ht said:


> Thanks for posting these visuals! I've also been reading up on the subject and I understand now that it's unavoidable for a number of reasons but there are also some things that can be done to minimize it's occurrences/effects. So far, I have not seen any examples in the content I have viewed.


No problem. 

I notice some on the 5040 because I'm looking for it. My Benq hardly has any.


----------



## gnolivos

k3nnis said:


> Oh ok. So does everything play correctly on Netflix at 24Hz? Are all content on Netflix 24Hz?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I'm interested in this question too. I know for a fact there is content on Netflix with greater frame rate than 24.


----------



## Chris the Rock

Long time lurker. First time posting in ages.

I own a 6040 with less than 10 hours on the lamp. Been fiddling with it all week. I can appreciate all sides of the discussion regarding this projector. I am trying to come to grips with the complexity of HDR and I'm dealing with the frustrations, and the one at the top of my list is that the "Auto" HDR setting most of the time defaults to HDR Mode 2, which I find (like others) to be too dark for my liking. I think somewhere a hundred pages back in this thread, someone claimed that a FW upgrade was on the way to allow users to pick which HDR Mode is selected when you choose "Auto". That will be nice.

But I digress.

This post is to get the attention of anyone who happens to have an Oppo UDP-203 player mated to their 5040/6040.

I did a FW update on my Oppo last night, and since then whenever I play back a UHD disc, the 6040 reports back that the resolution is 1920x1080, not 3840x2160 as it did prior to the FW upgrade. It shows BT2020 colorspace. 

My Oppo player is set to a custom UHD resolution @ 24hz, 10-bit color depth (taking cues from the HomeTheaterReview.com review of the Oppo player which was reviewed on an Epson 6040).

I first noticed it as I was trying to dial in my UHD picture using The Revenant UHD compared to the BD of the same title. I have dialed in my BD settings to my satisfaction, and I was playing back the UHD and noticed I had the option to turn on Frame Interpolation (which I don't use), and that seemed strange, as it's not something you can do with a UHD source. So I checked the Projector Information, and sure enough.

Here's the strangest part:
When a disc is not playing, (the Oppo is in the menu, for example), it does show 3840x2160, albeit BT709 with SDR. As soon as I start a UHD disc, and after a black screen, it goes back to showing 1920x1080, Rec2020, HDR2.

I've sent Oppo a note asking about it, I have cleared my persistent storage and all my settings on the Oppo. 

My Projector seems fine, the PS4 Pro shows UHD resolution, so maybe this belongs in the Oppo 203 Owner's thread. I'll be checking there, too.

Thanks for the the discussion over the past months. I don't want to alarm anyone - this isn't a "WARNING: don't update your Oppo" post, because I'm not sure exactly what is causing the problem or if there's anything I can do to fix it. When they get back to me, I'll update here, especially if they have a suggestion that tells me how to fix this issue. I fully admit, I could be missing something.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Chris the Rock said:


> Long time lurker. First time posting in ages.
> 
> I own a 6040 with less than 10 hours on the lamp. Been fiddling with it all week. I can appreciate all sides of the discussion regarding this projector. I am trying to come to grips with the complexity of HDR and I'm dealing with the frustrations, and the one at the top of my list is that the "Auto" HDR setting most of the time defaults to HDR Mode 2, which I find (like others) to be too dark for my liking. I think somewhere a hundred pages back in this thread, someone claimed that a FW upgrade was on the way to allow users to pick which HDR Mode is selected when you choose "Auto". That will be nice.
> 
> But I digress.
> 
> This post is to get the attention of anyone who happens to have an Oppo UDP-203 player mated to their 5040/6040.
> 
> I did a FW update on my Oppo last night, and since then whenever I play back a UHD disc, the 6040 reports back that the resolution is 1920x1080, not 3840x2160 as it did prior to the FW upgrade. It shows BT2020 colorspace.
> 
> My Oppo player is set to a custom UHD resolution @ 24hz, 10-bit color depth (taking cues from the HomeTheaterReview.com review of the Oppo player which was reviewed on an Epson 6040).
> 
> I first noticed it as I was trying to dial in my UHD picture using The Revenant UHD compared to the BD of the same title. I have dialed in my BD settings to my satisfaction, and I was playing back the UHD and noticed I had the option to turn on Frame Interpolation (which I don't use), and that seemed strange, as it's not something you can do with a UHD source. So I checked the Projector Information, and sure enough.
> 
> Here's the strangest part:
> When a disc is not playing, (the Oppo is in the menu, for example), it does show 3840x2160, albeit BT709 with SDR. As soon as I start a UHD disc, and after a black screen, it goes back to showing 1920x1080, Rec2020, HDR2.
> 
> I've sent Oppo a note asking about it, I have cleared my persistent storage and all my settings on the Oppo.
> 
> My Projector seems fine, the PS4 Pro shows UHD resolution, so maybe this belongs in the Oppo 203 Owner's thread. I'll be checking there, too.
> 
> Thanks for the the discussion over the past months. I don't want to alarm anyone - this isn't a "WARNING: don't update your Oppo" post, because I'm not sure exactly what is causing the problem or if there's anything I can do to fix it. When they get back to me, I'll update here, especially if they have a suggestion that tells me how to fix this issue. I fully admit, I could be missing something.


This clearly is an Oppo issue. If other source (PS4) is giving correct resolution.
And yes, wrong thread.


----------



## db999md

gnolivos said:


> I'm interested in this question too. I know for a fact there is content on Netflix with greater frame rate than 24.


I am willing to try some shows if you tell me what you wish me to try.


----------



## bezlar

Chris the Rock said:


> Long time lurker. First time posting in ages.
> 
> 
> 
> I own a 6040 with less than 10 hours on the lamp. Been fiddling with it all week. I can appreciate all sides of the discussion regarding this projector. I am trying to come to grips with the complexity of HDR and I'm dealing with the frustrations, and the one at the top of my list is that the "Auto" HDR setting most of the time defaults to HDR Mode 2, which I find (like others) to be too dark for my liking. I think somewhere a hundred pages back in this thread, someone claimed that a FW upgrade was on the way to allow users to pick which HDR Mode is selected when you choose "Auto". That will be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> But I digress.
> 
> 
> 
> This post is to get the attention of anyone who happens to have an Oppo UDP-203 player mated to their 5040/6040.
> 
> 
> 
> I did a FW update on my Oppo last night, and since then whenever I play back a UHD disc, the 6040 reports back that the resolution is 1920x1080, not 3840x2160 as it did prior to the FW upgrade. It shows BT2020 colorspace.
> 
> 
> 
> My Oppo player is set to a custom UHD resolution @ 24hz, 10-bit color depth (taking cues from the HomeTheaterReview.com review of the Oppo player which was reviewed on an Epson 6040).
> 
> 
> 
> I first noticed it as I was trying to dial in my UHD picture using The Revenant UHD compared to the BD of the same title. I have dialed in my BD settings to my satisfaction, and I was playing back the UHD and noticed I had the option to turn on Frame Interpolation (which I don't use), and that seemed strange, as it's not something you can do with a UHD source. So I checked the Projector Information, and sure enough.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the strangest part:
> 
> When a disc is not playing, (the Oppo is in the menu, for example), it does show 3840x2160, albeit BT709 with SDR. As soon as I start a UHD disc, and after a black screen, it goes back to showing 1920x1080, Rec2020, HDR2.
> 
> 
> 
> I've sent Oppo a note asking about it, I have cleared my persistent storage and all my settings on the Oppo.
> 
> 
> 
> My Projector seems fine, the PS4 Pro shows UHD resolution, so maybe this belongs in the Oppo 203 Owner's thread. I'll be checking there, too.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the the discussion over the past months. I don't want to alarm anyone - this isn't a "WARNING: don't update your Oppo" post, because I'm not sure exactly what is causing the problem or if there's anything I can do to fix it. When they get back to me, I'll update here, especially if they have a suggestion that tells me how to fix this issue. I fully admit, I could be missing something.




Mine doesn't do that. I have oppo 4:2:2 12 bit everything else auto. Also this is right thread. It could be epson you don't know that's why you come here also. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Chris the Rock said:


> Long time lurker. First time posting in ages.
> 
> 
> 
> I own a 6040 with less than 10 hours on the lamp. Been fiddling with it all week. I can appreciate all sides of the discussion regarding this projector. I am trying to come to grips with the complexity of HDR and I'm dealing with the frustrations, and the one at the top of my list is that the "Auto" HDR setting most of the time defaults to HDR Mode 2, which I find (like others) to be too dark for my liking. I think somewhere a hundred pages back in this thread, someone claimed that a FW upgrade was on the way to allow users to pick which HDR Mode is selected when you choose "Auto". That will be nice.
> 
> 
> 
> But I digress.
> 
> 
> 
> This post is to get the attention of anyone who happens to have an Oppo UDP-203 player mated to their 5040/6040.
> 
> 
> 
> I did a FW update on my Oppo last night, and since then whenever I play back a UHD disc, the 6040 reports back that the resolution is 1920x1080, not 3840x2160 as it did prior to the FW upgrade. It shows BT2020 colorspace.
> 
> 
> 
> My Oppo player is set to a custom UHD resolution @ 24hz, 10-bit color depth (taking cues from the HomeTheaterReview.com review of the Oppo player which was reviewed on an Epson 6040).
> 
> 
> 
> I first noticed it as I was trying to dial in my UHD picture using The Revenant UHD compared to the BD of the same title. I have dialed in my BD settings to my satisfaction, and I was playing back the UHD and noticed I had the option to turn on Frame Interpolation (which I don't use), and that seemed strange, as it's not something you can do with a UHD source. So I checked the Projector Information, and sure enough.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the strangest part:
> 
> When a disc is not playing, (the Oppo is in the menu, for example), it does show 3840x2160, albeit BT709 with SDR. As soon as I start a UHD disc, and after a black screen, it goes back to showing 1920x1080, Rec2020, HDR2.
> 
> 
> 
> I've sent Oppo a note asking about it, I have cleared my persistent storage and all my settings on the Oppo.
> 
> 
> 
> My Projector seems fine, the PS4 Pro shows UHD resolution, so maybe this belongs in the Oppo 203 Owner's thread. I'll be checking there, too.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the the discussion over the past months. I don't want to alarm anyone - this isn't a "WARNING: don't update your Oppo" post, because I'm not sure exactly what is causing the problem or if there's anything I can do to fix it. When they get back to me, I'll update here, especially if they have a suggestion that tells me how to fix this issue. I fully admit, I could be missing something.




I encountered this same problem with the 203 beta fw, but not at first. Everything was outputting fine and then I was messing around quite a bit between custom settings, strip hdr, etc and then noticed my uhd setting was only doing 1080p. I reset but that didn't fix it. What fixed it for me was unplugging and holding the power button for about 10-15 seconds to clear any residual memory stuff. Then it started working right again.


----------



## Smarty-pants

spirithockey79 said:


> I encountered this same problem with the 203 beta fw, but not at first. Everything was outputting fine and then I was messing around quite a bit between custom settings, strip hdr, etc and then noticed my uhd setting was only doing 1080p. I reset but that didn't fix it. What fixed it for me was unplugging and holding the power button for about 10-15 seconds to clear any residual memory stuff. Then it started working right again.


That procedure was likely just a coincidence.
There are still a few bugs in the Oppo that need worked on, and I think one of them is that CUSTOM UHD 24HZ output has a bug that outputs 1080p instead of 4K. I'm trying to go from memory without verifying, but I think when you change the output to UHD AUTO then that will give you the correct output. You may have changed the settings and then just needed a new handshake or full power cycle to get the settings to work properly.

Also if you have NETWORK STANDBY set in the player settings, and you turn the player off and then back on, you are not getting a full power cycle because NETWORK STANDBY keeps the player active for IP control.
To get a full power cycle you need to change NETWORK STANDBY to ENERGY EFFICIENT and then power cycle the player,
or do what you did and pull the plug for a bit, then restore power and turn it on.
Whenever the player comes back on after losing power, it's first power cycle will be ENERGY EFFICIENT, then it will return to NETWORK STANDBY on the next cycle.


----------



## ht guy

*5040/6040 screen upgrade?*

After being blown away by the improvements from upgrading my 10 year old projector and pre-pro, I'm wondering if I should look into upgrading my 10 year old screen.

I'm using a 128" Carada Criterion 235:1 that looks great with the 5040. I would want an identically sized screen as I've got the center/sub just below the bottom edge and curtain valance covering part of the top edge.

Would I see a big improvement? If so, what screen should I get?

Thanks!


----------



## OnkelCannabia

*Epson x265 on PC*

I have a question for anyone trying to use the Epson with his PC. I have a GTX1070, which supports HEVC x265 decoding and yet most players seem not to detect it. I've tried several x265 4K HDR test videos, but none of them work and I just can't find out why, so my last shot is trying to figure out if it has anything to do with the projector and that 10 gbps bandwidth problem. It's a long shot, but I don't know what else to do. I'm just gonna quote my on post from another forum. Maybe anyone else here has had similar issues?



> Computer Type: Custom Built Desktop
> GPU: KFA2 GTX 1070 Sniper OC
> CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K
> Motherboard: Asus ROG Maximus IX Hero Intel Z270
> RAM: 32GB (2x 16384MB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000
> PSU: 860 Watt Corsair AX
> Operating System & Version: Windows 10 Pro
> GPU Drivers: Nvidia Driver v376.33
> Display: Epson 9300/5040UB
> Description of Problem:
> I cannot get the GTX1070 to use the x265 properly. I tested the videos "ok_Sony_4K_HDR_Camp" and "Samsung_HDR_-_Chasing_the_Light". Both are publically available HDR samples.
> 
> I tried MPC-HC, VLC and SMPlayer and various guides on how to get them working with 4k 60fps videos. CPU usage is always at 100% and they stutter. Most players only give me the option to use no hardware acceleration, automic or directx. I believe there should be more options in SMplayer and VLC, but they don't appear. I've also tried the HEVC Chrome plugin. It says my PC is too slow to handle the videos. So again, hardware support seems not to be detected.
> 
> If i try the default Windows Media Player playback is smooth and it CPU usage is at 10%, but after about 3 seconds the video turns green and pink and is heavily zoomed in. If I move the mouse it goes back to normal. If I open with "Movies & TV" I get smooth playback but the colors are all wrong. It's like the contrast it set to the most extreme setting possible. It's hard to describe, but it is absolutely unwatchable.
> 
> If one or two players were failing I'd assume a software issue, but since absolutely nothing will play the 4K 60fps videos, I'm wondering if there is some hardware defect with the codec in the GPU??


----------



## aaranddeeman

ht guy said:


> After being blown away by the improvements from upgrading my 10 year old projector and pre-pro, I'm wondering if I should look into upgrading my 10 year old screen.
> 
> I'm using a 128" Carada Criterion 235:1 that looks great with the 5040. I would want an identically sized screen as I've got the center/sub just below the bottom edge and curtain valance covering part of the top edge.
> 
> Would I see a big improvement? If so, what screen should I get?
> 
> Thanks!


If you don't have/see any issues with the existing screen, then why?


----------



## ht guy

aaranddeeman said:


> If you don't have/see any issues with the existing screen, then why?


10 years is a long time when it comes to technology. I didn't have/see any issues with the old pj or pre-pro, but both have proved worthy of upgrade.

Admittedly, both offer new features, but if there was a much better way to go with a screen, it would be good to know what the options are.

I certainly wouldn't be disappointed with "You wouldn't see a visible improvement!"


----------



## craigwatson

*Over 5000 read and still unsure of Xbox One S and Linker*

First of all, THANK YOU!!! I initially started reading the thread from the beginning and a month ago it caused me to get the 5040UB and I LOVE IT! Your wisdom and helpfulness gave me every measure fo hope that I would get the best picture etc

I originally purchased knowing that I have an XBOX One S and I would possibly need to buy the HD Fury Linker based on my preference after seeing the picture etc...

Needless to say I just got the Linker a few days ago and I am truly stumped and looking for advice...

My system is as follows:
I have a Rock Ultra, Tivo, Xbox One S and Fire TV all feeding my Denon S910W (for audio only for me as I have it pass through all signals and don't up or downscale in the receiver) and then feeding my Epson 5040UB

I can get 4k etc from everywhere but we all know I want either HDR or the best 2020 WCG etc.... Thus the Linker... 

When I put the Linker between the Denon and the PJ I get no signal output the PJ can read at all... 

I have tried many different settings (EDID preset #2 , #10 , #18) with force BT2020 on etc and maybe I just keep screwing everything up but I am getting nothing 

Is there anyone out there with a similar enough setup or the wisdom to help give me the best Xbox, Denon, Linker and Epson settings because for over 5000 messages read in the thread my eyes are crossed and I am really at my wits end.... I would TRULY appreciate any and ALL help anyone can provide in the way of advice.

Thank You!


----------



## db999md

craigwatson said:


> First of all, THANK YOU!!! I initially started reading the thread from the beginning and a month ago it caused me to get the 5040UB and I LOVE IT! Your wisdom and helpfulness gave me every measure fo hope that I would get the best picture etc
> 
> I originally purchased knowing that I have an XBOX One S and I would possibly need to buy the HD Fury Linker based on my preference after seeing the picture etc...
> 
> Needless to say I just got the Linker a few days ago and I am truly stumped and looking for advice...
> 
> My system is as follows:
> I have a Rock Ultra, Tivo, Xbox One S and Fire TV all feeding my Denon S910W (for audio only for me as I have it pass through all signals and don't up or downscale in the receiver) and then feeding my Epson 5040UB
> 
> I can get 4k etc from everywhere but we all know I want either HDR or the best 2020 WCG etc.... Thus the Linker...
> 
> When I put the Linker between the Denon and the PJ I get no signal output the PJ can read at all...
> 
> I have tried many different settings (EDID preset #2 , #10 , #18) with force BT2020 on etc and maybe I just keep screwing everything up but I am getting nothing
> 
> Is there anyone out there with a similar enough setup or the wisdom to help give me the best Xbox, Denon, Linker and Epson settings because for over 5000 messages read in the thread my eyes are crossed and I am really at my wits end.... I would TRULY appreciate any and ALL help anyone can provide in the way of advice.
> 
> Thank You!



I have xbox one S and linker. xbox one s will properly play back Blu-ray in HDR on Epson 5040ub without linker. I think that you are SOL as far as 4k HDR gaming and Netflix due to the 10gbps limitation from xbox one s. You can use the downscaling feature + edid preset on linker to downscale 4k60 HDR to 1080 / 60p 4:4:4 HDR and this will display if that is what you want to do. I do not think that sbox one s does gaming in less than 60hz but I am not 100% sure.


This projector does not support HDR in 4k60hz .


----------



## craigwatson

db999md said:


> I have xbox one S and linker. xbox one s will properly play back Blu-ray in HDR on Epson 5040ub without linker. I think that you are SOL as far as 4k HDR gaming and Netflix due to the 10gbps limitation from xbox one s. You can use the downscaling feature + edid preset on linker to downscale 4k60 HDR to 1080 / 60p 4:4:4 HDR and this will display if that is what you want to do. I do not think that sbox one s does gaming in less than 60hz but I am not 100% sure.
> 
> 
> This projector does not support HDR in 4k60hz .


When I go to settings under Xbox One S, it says it can do 4k but not HDR. It does say apps can do 8-bit but nothing more... Am I missing something?


----------



## raffertyjr

Thanks everyone for all your help in planning the setup for my new basement. My wife and I have been building a house and we will move in just a couple of weeks. She will doubtless be frustrated when she tries to organize the rest of the house and I spend all my time getting our theater set up in the basement.

I have bought everything that I need and plan to set up, but I still have a little time to make some changes if needed. 

25% DirecTV
25% Blu Ray Viewing
25% streaming Netflix, Amazon Prime, Vudu
25% Music Listening

I want to be able to watch as much content in 4K as possible, but I am less concerned with HDR, as this generally seems to make everything more complicated. I am excited to have 2 atmos speakers, and need to make sure I have a good set up to use them.

Can anyone provide advice as to whether or not this equipment list looks good, and whether or not I might consider any last minute changes? I am particularly concerned that I'll get something set up and the Epson won't display correctly because I have missed something.

Epson 5040ub
Silver Ticket 120" Thin Bezel Grey Material
Marantz SR6011 Reciever
2 Klipsch RP280FA Towers
Klipsch RP440C Center
2 Klipsch CDT-3650-C II Rear In-Ceiling
Philips BDP7501 Blu Ray Player
Nvidia Shield TV (2017) for Streaming Video


Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!!

Raff


----------



## Adream2018

I just received my Epson 5040UB and the firmware showed version Main: 69007664BUWWV*106* and Video2: 68L2BWMV*104* is installed. Is that the latest because on the Epson site (https://epson.com/Support/wa00805) I see the latest version for the 5040UB appears to be *1.08/1.04*.

I downloaded that file from the Epson site and it named the file EpsonPj_t*108*_*104*.bin. I save it to a USB memory stick. Unplugged the Espon power cord. Inserted the USB memory stick into the projector. Simultaneously held the power button and plugged in the Power cord. All lights lit up and flashed. I believe that means the update started. Then only the blue power light was lit on the projector. So, I thought the update was finished. I powered it up and the Epson still appears as version 106. Just like it was when I powered it up for the first time?

So, what should the version appear as if the you have the latest firmware? I am a little confused as why the Epson site shows *1.08 slash 1.04* but my projector still shows Main: 69007664BUWWV*106* and Video2: 68L2BWMV*104*?

Anyone know what I did wrong? How long is the process supposed to take from the time you plug in the power cord while holding the power button then release the power button after all the lights start flashing?

Thanks guys.


----------



## Adream2018

AdamAttewell said:


> I would recommend giving this review a look.
> 
> http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/
> 
> In Europe the 5040 is called the 7300 & the 6040 is called the 9300.
> 
> They compare both of them against each other toward the end of the review and you can see you are really paying for black level in the 6040.
> 
> They also show how the room effects projectors and that if you are not in a bat cave the 6040 is a waste of money.


Thanks


----------



## hckymstr19

Hey guys just got the 5040ub a couple days ago trying to get settings straightened out and I have saved some memory slots but sometimes and pretty often when I go to load a memory slot the screen just goes black and the projector freezes and the only way out is to unplug the projector and plug it back in. Just wondering if anyone else is experiencing that and if I should just call epson or not. Let me know. Thanks


----------



## seplant

hckymstr19 said:


> Hey guys just got the 5040ub a couple days ago trying to get settings straightened out and I have saved some memory slots but sometimes and pretty often when I go to load a memory slot the screen just goes black and the projector freezes and the only way out is to unplug the projector and plug it back in. Just wondering if anyone else is experiencing that and if I should just call epson or not. Let me know. Thanks


Do you have the latest firmware?

Sent from my Samsung S7 Edge


----------



## db999md

craigwatson said:


> When I go to settings under Xbox One S, it says it can do 4k but not HDR. It does say apps can do 8-bit but nothing more... Am I missing something?


I just checked again to make sure.

My xbox also says no HDR support when plugged in thru a denon X2200W receiver, and I was wrong, UHD bluray is playing at 24hz but not in HDR and not in BT.2020.

I bet you could get the UHD blu-ray to play HDR with the linker. Overall however Xbox one s not a good mate with this projector unless they change the xbox firmware


----------



## dvdwilly3

hckymstr19 said:


> Hey guys just got the 5040ub a couple days ago trying to get settings straightened out and I have saved some memory slots but sometimes and pretty often when I go to load a memory slot the screen just goes black and the projector freezes and the only way out is to unplug the projector and plug it back in. Just wondering if anyone else is experiencing that and if I should just call epson or not. Let me know. Thanks


Several of us had this issue...

The latest firmware from Epson fixed it...109, I think...


----------



## db999md

db999md said:


> I just checked again to make sure.
> 
> My xbox also says no HDR support when plugged in thru a denon X2200W receiver, and I was wrong, UHD bluray is playing at 24hz but not in HDR and not in BT.2020.
> 
> I bet you could get the UHD blu-ray to play HDR with the linker. Overall however Xbox one s not a good mate with this projector unless they change the xbox firmware


To get the 4k HDR with bluray on xbox one s using linker:
- choose EDID preset #2 - xbox will now detect HDR capable display
- on the scaler page you select 4k30 preset and choose 4k24/25/30 422 12b 300MHz
that should do it. It will change the 4k24 4:4:4 from the xbox to the 4k24 4:2:2 that the 5040ub will support


----------



## akgolf

I'll be having a theater put in our new house this year.

I haven't purchased any equipment yet and am leaning towards the Epson 5040 or the Sony 675.

Looking at these last few posts about the linker. Is this something I'll need to get or will the newer receivers, Blu Ray players be okay without it?


----------



## Bejoy

*HDR on Epson with Streaming Aps*

Just got the Epson projector today! It is an amazing upgrade. I have it hooked to a Marantz 7010 and the 4k sources are the Roku Premiere Plus and the Panasonic UB900.

4K discs looks amazing and I am getting 4K and HDR.

When I stream Netflix and Amazon from the Panasonic player internal apps, I get 4K but no HDR.
When I stream Netflix and Amazon from the ROKU Premiere Plus, I get 4K but no HDR.

Am I missing something?

also, I did a Menu - Info - Projector Info and it says:

Amazon 4K = 8 bit 4:4:4 BT. 2020 HDR 2 and 24.00Hz
Netflix 4K = 8 bit 4:2:0 BT. 2020 SDR and 59.94 Hz

Should I change the settings somewhere on the Epson?

Thanks!
I have 4 hours on my projector now!


----------



## spirithockey79

Smarty-pants said:


> That procedure was likely just a coincidence.
> 
> There are still a few bugs in the Oppo that need worked on, and I think one of them is that CUSTOM UHD 24HZ output has a bug that outputs 1080p instead of 4K. I'm trying to go from memory without verifying, but I think when you change the output to UHD AUTO then that will give you the correct output. You may have changed the settings and then just needed a new handshake or full power cycle to get the settings to work properly.
> 
> 
> 
> Also if you have NETWORK STANDBY set in the player settings, and you turn the player off and then back on, you are not getting a full power cycle because NETWORK STANDBY keeps the player active for IP control.
> 
> To get a full power cycle you need to change NETWORK STANDBY to ENERGY EFFICIENT and then power cycle the player,
> 
> or do what you did and pull the plug for a bit, then restore power and turn it on.
> 
> Whenever the player comes back on after losing power, it's first power cycle will be ENERGY EFFICIENT, then it will return to NETWORK STANDBY on the next cycle.




Good to know, thanks


----------



## Smarty-pants

ht guy said:


> 10 years is a long time when it comes to technology. I didn't have/see any issues with the old pj or pre-pro, but both have proved worthy of upgrade.
> 
> Admittedly, both offer new features, but if there was a much better way to go with a screen, it would be good to know what the options are.
> 
> I certainly wouldn't be disappointed with "You wouldn't see a visible improvement!"


You don't need a new screen. The one you have is a nice screen.
Your money is better spent on something else that might give you a better experience.


----------



## dvdwilly3

ht guy said:


> After being blown away by the improvements from upgrading my 10 year old projector and pre-pro, I'm wondering if I should look into upgrading my 10 year old screen.
> 
> I'm using a 128" Carada Criterion 235:1 that looks great with the 5040. I would want an identically sized screen as I've got the center/sub just below the bottom edge and curtain valance covering part of the top edge.
> 
> Would I see a big improvement? If so, what screen should I get?
> 
> Thanks!


Like others here, I think that your screen is just fine...

You don't say what your audio setup is. If it is not Atmos/DTS Neural in at least 5.1.2, and preferably 7.1.4, then you are missing out. Put your $$ there.

How large is your room? Including ceiling height? How many rows of seats do you have?


----------



## ht guy

dvdwilly3 said:


> Like others here, I think that your screen is just fine...
> 
> You don't say what your audio setup is. If it is not Atmos/DTS Neural in at least 5.1.2, and preferably 7.1.4, then you are missing out. Put your $$ there.
> 
> How large is your room? Including ceiling height? How many rows of seats do you have?


Thanks aaranddeeman, smartypants and dvdwilly3. I'm not going to change my screen - and happy to use the money for Atmos. 

And dvdwilly3, I sent you a PM re: Atmos so as to not get too far off topic here.


----------



## gnolivos

Removed


----------



## JackOften

Bejoy said:


> Just got the Epson projector today! It is an amazing upgrade. I have it hooked to a Marantz 7010 and the 4k sources are the Roku Premiere Plus and the Panasonic UB900.
> 
> 4K discs looks amazing and I am getting 4K and HDR.
> 
> When I stream Netflix and Amazon from the Panasonic player internal apps, I get 4K but no HDR.
> When I stream Netflix and Amazon from the ROKU Premiere Plus, I get 4K but no HDR.
> 
> Am I missing something?
> 
> also, I did a Menu - Info - Projector Info and it says:
> 
> Amazon 4K = 8 bit 4:4:4 BT. 2020 HDR 2 and 24.00Hz
> Netflix 4K = 8 bit 4:2:0 BT. 2020 SDR and 59.94 Hz
> 
> Should I change the settings somewhere on the Epson?
> 
> Thanks!
> I have 4 hours on my projector now!


I get the same results with Netflix. I've use a premier+, Nvidia shield, and Philips UHD Blu ray player to stream Netflix and always get the same results, 4:2:0 SDR.


----------



## panman40

Guys, just bought the TW9300W in the uk, had a few teething problems especially with the wireless but seem to have sorted that now.

I'm sure I read somewhere that the PJ itself can be setup to power up/down the transmitter when you switch on, I cannot find a setting relating to that, any ideas ?.
I use a harmony so don't want to be messing with the oe remote.

Thanks.


----------



## panman40

This shot is with camera pan and some movement from a sky tv show at 50hz with 4K enhancement off so a 1080i picture, if you look at some of the wall and the edge of the guys face it seems to have like an interlacing problem, I never seen anything like it before with Sony pj's but using 4K enhancer reduces it , blu Ray I can't really see the issue or on 4K, we often watch sky tv though.

Any thoughts ?.


----------



## Savatage316

Here's a few things I'm still trying to figure out and understand. 

So in my info, it says color depth 8 bit 4:2:00 and color format bt 709 sdr. 

Does that sound right? I'm running ps4 right now, is that what everyone else gets in their info? 

Now if I go to signal, advanced, color space I can manually select auto, 709 or 2020. When I select 2020 the colors do change, but how can that be if my projector info is showing my signal at 709 sdr? 

I am still just tryin to understand a lot of this new stuff.


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

panman40 said:


> This shot is with camera pan and some movement from a sky tv show at 50hz with 4K enhancement off so a 1080i picture, if you look at some of the wall and the edge of the guys face it seems to have like an interlacing problem, I never seen anything like it before with Sony pj's but using 4K enhancer reduces it , blu Ray I can't really see the issue or on 4K, we often watch sky tv though.
> 
> Any thoughts ?.


That's not a problem with the projector, any TV box should be able to de-interlace a TV signal before outputting 1080p instead of 1080i. There should be a setting from your cable box to output 1080p. 

Bluray and Netflix always output progressive signals too.


----------



## Bejoy

JackOften said:


> I get the same results with Netflix. I've use a premier+, Nvidia shield, and Philips UHD Blu ray player to stream Netflix and always get the same results, 4:2:0 SDR.


Oh, i just tried it again and I am getting the 4:2:0 SDR with *Bt.709.*
(my source is the Roku Premiere Plus)

Originally I got:
Amazon 4K = 8 bit 4:4:4 BT. 2020 HDR 2 and 24.00Hz
Netflix 4K = 8 bit 4:2:0 *BT. 2020* SDR and 59.94 Hz

I guess I tricked the epson into bt2020, by hitting the netflix button (while I was watching amazon HDR) on the roku remote. So, it stayed in bt2020. If i hit home and then netflix, then it will be bt709. When you hit home it always goes back to BT709.

So, is there any way to get Netflix HDR on our Epson? 

Thanks

.


----------



## rjguk

RLBURNSIDE said:


> That's not a problem with the projector, any TV box should be able to de-interlace a TV signal before outputting 1080p instead of 1080i. There should be a setting from your cable box to output 1080p.
> 
> Bluray and Netflix always output progressive signals too.


The projector should be able to deinterlace 1080i though, and it is often stated that an expensive projector is likely to have a better deinterlacer/scaler than a lowest bidder network-supplied TV box.
What panman40 didn't mention was the setting of 'Deinterlacing' in the 'Image', 'Advanced' menu. This in turn depends on whether 'Image processing' is set to 'Fast' or 'Fine'. I'd expect to be using 'Fine' and leave deinterlacing on 'Auto' for a Sky+HD box with 1080i. (Well, that's what mine is set to anyway, and no trace of such artifacts).


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

Not sure how many people wouldn't buy this projector on the basis of faulty 1080i deinterlacing chip, I was merely offering a potential workaround in case you hadn't tried it.

There are literally no current sources AFAIK which can't de-interlace these days. And electronics devices almost invariably use lowest-bidder sourcing generally, as does probably every other manufacturer interested in making a profit. Actually do to otherwise would probably be a violation of fiduciary duty to which stockholders would take exception / even possibly sue over. Even if you returned your projector as a result of this or gave a negative feedback due to it, they have to weigh that vs the cost to implement a better solution for literally every other customer who doesn't use that or who is willing to simply configure their set-top box to output 1080p. Which is in and of itself not an unreasonable thing to suggest.


----------



## rjguk

RLBURNSIDE said:


> Not sure how many people wouldn't buy this projector on the basis of faulty 1080i deinterlacing chip, I was merely offering a potential workaround in case you hadn't tried it.
> 
> There are literally no current sources AFAIK which can't de-interlace these days. And electronics devices almost invariably use lowest-bidder sourcing generally, as does probably every other manufacturer interested in making a profit. Actually do to otherwise would probably be a violation of fiduciary duty to which stockholders would take exception / even possibly sue over. Even if you returned your projector as a result of this or gave a negative feedback due to it, they have to weigh that vs the cost to implement a better solution for literally every other customer who doesn't use that or who is willing to simply configure their set-top box to output 1080p. Which is in and of itself not an unreasonable thing to suggest.


The Sky+HD box that is in millions of UK homes takes the 1080i satellite broadcast and outputs it at, er, 1080i. It can upscale 576i to 1080i though. No p option, that's on the 2160p satellite Sky Q boxes which are taking over but that's nowhere near the market penetration. So having the projector deinterlace is necessary, and from my own observations it does it extremely well.


----------



## panman40

rjguk said:


> The projector should be able to deinterlace 1080i though, and it is often stated that an expensive projector is likely to have a better deinterlacer/scaler than a lowest bidder network-supplied TV box.
> What panman40 didn't mention was the setting of 'Deinterlacing' in the 'Image', 'Advanced' menu. This in turn depends on whether 'Image processing' is set to 'Fast' or 'Fine'. I'd expect to be using 'Fine' and leave deinterlacing on 'Auto' for a Sky+HD box with 1080i. (Well, that's what mine is set to anyway, and no trace of such artifacts).


Well I've had Sonys hw40, hw65 and a few dlp projectors and never seen this before, static images are excellent.
My setting is film/auto for deinterlacing, 'image processing is on default Fine but set to fast eliminates the issue 99% but obviously introduces other issues. Some points I have noticed are as follows,

Without Eshift 4K enhancement on its worse as in the picture I posted, turning on eshift helps as its shifting the pixels horizontally by 0.5 which masks it a little.

What also makes it progressively worse is using the image enhancer from 1-5 with Off having the best result, this is quite annoying as I found image enhancer 2 to add a little something to the image rather like reality creation did on my Sony, without it the image is a little soft.

When my unit arrived I could tell the box had been shunted around in transit, upon opening I found the auto lens Hood about 1/3rd open and jammed, this corrected itself on first power up though and seems to be working fine.


----------



## db999md

Bejoy said:


> Oh, i just tried it again and I am getting the 4:2:0 SDR with *Bt.709.*
> (my source is the Roku Premiere Plus)
> 
> Originally I got:
> Amazon 4K = 8 bit 4:4:4 BT. 2020 HDR 2 and 24.00Hz
> Netflix 4K = 8 bit 4:2:0 *BT. 2020* SDR and 59.94 Hz
> 
> I guess I tricked the epson into bt2020, by hitting the netflix button (while I was watching amazon HDR) on the roku remote. So, it stayed in bt2020. If i hit home and then netflix, then it will be bt709. When you hit home it always goes back to BT709.
> 
> So, is there any way to get Netflix HDR on our Epson?
> 
> Thank
> .


You need to get the new nvidia shield (2017) and lock it in to 24 hz in the display menu then netflix HDR will work. 
BT2020 should require more than 8 bit so I do not think that it is really sending bt2020 in 8 bit


----------



## bluer101

panman40 said:


> Well I've had Sonys hw40, hw65 and a few dlp projectors and never seen this before, static images are excellent.
> My setting is film/auto for deinterlacing, 'image processing is on default Fine but set to fast eliminates the issue 99% but obviously introduces other issues. Some points I have noticed are as follows,
> 
> Without Eshift 4K enhancement on its worse as in the picture I posted, turning on eshift helps as its shifting the pixels horizontally by 0.5 which masks it a little.
> 
> What also makes it progressively worse is using the image enhancer from 1-5 with Off having the best result, this is quite annoying as I found image enhancer 2 to add a little something to the image rather like reality creation did on my Sony, without it the image is a little soft.
> 
> When my unit arrived I could tell the box had been shunted around in transit, upon opening I found the auto lens Hood about 1/3rd open and jammed, this corrected itself on first power up though and seems to be working fine.


Set it to fast and video. 

I had similar with DIRECTV. It's worth a try.


----------



## Bejoy

db999md said:


> You need to get the new nvidia shield (2017) and lock it in to 24 hz in the display menu then netflix HDR will work.
> BT2020 should require more than 8 bit so I do not think that it is really sending bt2020 in 8 bit


Cool. Thanks! But, is it worth it to spend $200 to see Netflix HDR? Shouldn't there be an update coming to the epson to enable HDR via streaming apps from the roku? (I also have a Panasonic UB900 connected to the Epson, so when I play a UHD disc it shows 12 bit with the Bt2020.) I agree, The 8 bit showing bt2020 was weird..


----------



## crosswire

Hello all
I just upgraded my home theatre almost the whole 9 yards. This is what I ended up getting. 

Epson 5040ub
Denon x2300w
Samsung k8500 

So far, I plugged it all in and did the audio calibration and was up and running. Switched to Cinema mode and was blown away on my 110" 4k projector screen. I have a few questions, coming from a 7 year old system. 



Does the 5040ub do the auto lens shift from 16x9 to 2.35:1 like the ae4000u I had did? I see that lens1 and lens 2 button on remote nothing happens when pressed.
My devices did all the firmware updates today included the DTS.x on the denon. Also the samsung player. I'm not sure about the epson yet as I cant figure out the firmware version I have. see link https://postimg.org/image/9vz3q0jz3


The website did have a firmware via usb but not sure if I should do it and benefits of what features come with it.?
Also should I be calibrating the epson out of the box or where would I start?
The denon did its most recent update on the DTS.x and not sure if im supposes to activate the dts.x feature it or is it automatic?
Re the 4k upscaling..All 3 products have that built in. Which one is the actual ideal 4k upscaler for bluray discs.I connect the samsung to the denon and then out to the epson or is it all automatically taken care off?

Much thanks for any assistance.


----------



## panman40

bluer101 said:


> Set it to fast and video.
> 
> I had similar with DIRECTV. It's worth a try.


So it's not likely to be a faulty unit then ?. Experimenting it seems setting to fast overrides film/auto and Video as its not doing any deinterlacing?. I do see an unstable picture especially text with it set to Fast.
Then I have to remember to switch it back for blu Ray which isn't to ideal.

I would request another unit but if it's not faulty as such it seems a waste of time.


----------



## hckymstr19

So I just wanted to get everyone's opinion. I just got this projector and love it, been playing blurays through my ps4 pro and they look amazing. But I am debating about getting the Philips bdp7501 UHD player and wondering if everyone thinks it is worth it or not. Are the UHD videos going to be THAT much better looking that I will notice? Let me know your opinions, thanks


----------



## crosswire

hckymstr19 said:


> So I just wanted to get everyone's opinion. I just got this projector and love it, been playing blurays through my ps4 pro and they look amazing. But I am debating about getting the Philips bdp7501 UHD player and wondering if everyone thinks it is worth it or not. Are the UHD videos going to be THAT much better looking that I will notice? Let me know your opinions, thanks


i found this online 
https://tvevaluate.com/samsung-ubd-k8500-vs-philips-bdp7501/


----------



## dvdwilly3

panman40 said:


> So it's not likely to be a faulty unit then ?. Experimenting it seems setting to fast overrides film/auto and Video as its not doing any deinterlacing?. I do see an unstable picture especially text with it set to Fast.
> Then I have to remember to switch it back for blu Ray which isn't to ideal.
> 
> I would request another unit but if it's not faulty as such it seems a waste of time.


You can always Save the settings for each so that it a 2-step process.

Then, you juress the Memory button, select Load Memory, and select whichever set of settings that you want to use.

See the link in my signature for examples...


----------



## hckymstr19

crosswire said:


> i found this online
> https://tvevaluate.com/samsung-ubd-k8500-vs-philips-bdp7501/


I guess I was looking for information or opinions more towards if the UHDs will look THAT much different or at least significantly enough over regular blu rays to justify purchasing a Philips and then 4k disks.


----------



## Savatage316

Anyone able to work with me a bit here on understanding this? 

Even just for starters color format is 709 sdr in my info. I don't recall seeing it change pending the feed, is that what everyone else's color format says in their info? Or is everyone getting bt 2020?

I don't understand how I can manually turn on bt 2020 and yet my signal stays at 709 sdr..


----------



## panman40

My unit is being replaced, hopefully I get lucky next time, thanks for the replys.


----------



## Glenn Rubin

Bejoy said:


> Just got the Epson projector today! It is an amazing upgrade. I have it hooked to a Marantz 7010 and the 4k sources are the Roku Premiere Plus and the Panasonic UB900.
> 
> 4K discs looks amazing and I am getting 4K and HDR.
> 
> When I stream Netflix and Amazon from the Panasonic player internal apps, I get 4K but no HDR.
> When I stream Netflix and Amazon from the ROKU Premiere Plus, I get 4K but no HDR.
> 
> Am I missing something?
> 
> also, I did a Menu - Info - Projector Info and it says:
> 
> Amazon 4K = 8 bit 4:4:4 BT. 2020 HDR 2 and 24.00Hz
> Netflix 4K = 8 bit 4:2:0 BT. 2020 SDR and 59.94 Hz
> 
> Should I change the settings somewhere on the Epson?
> 
> Thanks!
> I have 4 hours on my projector now!


I have the same two units with my projector, the UB900 but the Roku Ultra. There's no way to stream HDR on either. Kind of ridiculous but it is what it is. Personally after watching several 4K discs on the UB900 in HDR and comparing with 4K streams on Netflix, Amazon and Youtube I think the 4K without HDR looks maybe a little better. The HDR is nice but a little too dark.


----------



## Migeye

Maybe it's already somewhere mentioned, but sometimes when i turn on the projector it starts to blow in turbo mode for a few seconds before it comes operational.
Is this normal behavior?


----------



## crosswire

crosswire said:


> Hello all
> I just upgraded my home theatre almost the whole 9 yards. This is what I ended up getting.
> 
> Epson 5040ub
> Denon x2300w
> Samsung k8500
> 
> So far, I plugged it all in and did the audio calibration and was up and running. Switched to Cinema mode and was blown away on my 110" 4k projector screen. I have a few questions, coming from a 7 year old system.
> 
> 
> 
> Does the 5040ub do the auto lens shift from 16x9 to 2.35:1 like the ae4000u I had did? I see that lens1 and lens 2 button on remote nothing happens when pressed.
> My devices did all the firmware updates today included the DTS.x on the denon. Also the samsung player. I'm not sure about the epson yet as I cant figure out the firmware version I have. see link https://postimg.org/image/9vz3q0jz3
> 
> 
> The website did have a firmware via usb but not sure if I should do it and benefits of what features come with it.?
> Also should I be calibrating the epson out of the box or where would I start?
> The denon did its most recent update on the DTS.x and not sure if im supposes to activate the dts.x feature it or is it automatic?
> Re the 4k upscaling..All 3 products have that built in. Which one is the actual ideal 4k upscaler for bluray discs.I connect the samsung to the denon and then out to the epson or is it all automatically taken care off?
> 
> Much thanks for any assistance.


Also being my first all 3d device, which are the best glasses. I saw the epson had a few good models.


----------



## TheGizzard

Question for the owners, I hope this is the right place to ask. I am rebuilding my theater and my new home and looking into projectors just now. 


Is it worth getting this projector if my intention is to play 4k and HDR? I believe I read that it does not support HDR10 which I understand to be the current HDR standard I should be looking for. Does the addition of the HD Fury Linker give this projector full HDR10 capability? 


I am currently looking at the NVidia shield and eventually the Xbox One S as sources. Will I be able to play Netflix via Shield and get 4K HDR? Will I be able to play games with 4K HDR on the Xbox One?


I guess I am trying to figure out if this is the projector to get or if I should be looking for another similarly priced projector which is compatible with 4K HDR10? If the best move is to wait, for the next version I will reluctantly do so. But if this projector is available now and can handle the scenarios I mentioned, then I will be happy to move ahead. 


Thanks!!


----------



## bluer101

dvdwilly3 said:


> You can always Save the settings for each so that it a 2-step process.
> 
> Then, you juress the Memory button, select Load Memory, and select whichever set of settings that you want to use.
> 
> See the link in my signature for examples...


That's what I'm doing now to correct mine.


----------



## brianlvi3

Hey guys, I have asked and searched but can't find the answer. Will the 3D glasses I had for my Epson 5020UB work for my new 5040UB?

Thanks.


----------



## rogermoore123

hckymstr19 said:


> So I just wanted to get everyone's opinion. I just got this projector and love it, been playing blurays through my ps4 pro and they look amazing. But I am debating about getting the Philips bdp7501 UHD player and wondering if everyone thinks it is worth it or not. Are the UHD videos going to be THAT much better looking that I will notice? Let me know your opinions, thanks


I'm in the same situation and really happy with the picture quality.

Check out this: 

http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=270798

A list of UHD's that come from a 4k or higher master.
Also there is only one movie using the 100gig disk so far.
Same problem when bluray first came out and people were wondering why the picture quailty wasn't what they were expecting.


----------



## Docj04

Hello folks. Can anyone link me to, or provide settings/calibrations for using Directv? I tried dvdwilly's settings for TiVO and and seemed extremely dark.

Fwiw, I'm projecting onto a 120" Cinegrey 3D screen.

I'm hosting the neighborhood superbowl party this year, and really want to have this thing dialed in.

Thanks!


----------



## TheGizzard

db999md said:


> I can confirm this. I have bought most of the 4k streamers to see what does everything the best: Samsung 8500 UHD blu-ray, XBOX One S, Roku premiere, and now the Nvidia Shield TV (the 1st gen version that is $199 at best buy now). I find that the Nvidia shield is the only one that will play netflix 4K HDR on the epson 5040ub. I bought the player today, and after it updated it's firmware, I had to go to the google play store and update the netflix app for it to do HDR. The netflix app that was loaded on the box when it came did not support HDR at all.




This is great news. 4K HDR with the nvidia shield. Can you confirm if the new 2017 version is required, or if it works on the old version as well? I ask because the new version does not include an IR sensor unless you buy the 2017 Shield Pro.


----------



## bluer101

Migeye said:


> Maybe it's already somewhere mentioned, but sometimes when i turn on the projector it starts to blow in turbo mode for a few seconds before it comes operational.
> Is this normal behavior?


I notice this too sometimes. 

I'm going to exchange mine with Best Buy before my return period ends. Mainly returning due to the grinding noise after shutdown. I was going to call Epson and see what they will do. I just think it's easier to visit Best Buy and do an exchange in store. Then the new one will be shipped to me with free 2 day shipping.


----------



## Evan201

bluer101 said:


> I notice this too sometimes.
> 
> I'm going to exchange mine with Best Buy before my return period ends. Mainly returning due to the grinding noise after shutdown. I was going to call Epson and see what they will do. I just think it's easier to visit Best Buy and do an exchange in store. Then the new one will be shipped to me with free 2 day shipping.


My new 5040ub is less than two weeks old also purchased from Best Buy. I have noticed the turbo fan noise a couple times. Nothing too often. What I do notice a lot is this pulsating/ percussive sound that becomes fast and slow during different lighting in scenes. Anyone notice this? I'm wondering if I should do an exchange before my 2 weeks runs out with Best Buy.


----------



## bluer101

Evan201 said:


> My new 5040ub is less than two weeks old also purchased from Best Buy. I have noticed the turbo fan noise a couple times. Nothing too often. What I do notice a lot is this pulsating/ percussive sound that becomes fast and slow during different lighting in scenes. Anyone notice this? I'm wondering if I should do an exchange before my 2 weeks runs out with Best Buy.


Maybe that's the auto iris?


----------



## Evan201

bluer101 said:


> Maybe that's the auto iris?


Haven't thought of that one. I'll turn it off tonight and see if that helps with that stuttering noise. It almost sounds like a drum beating and progressively slows down and speeds up. 

My first attempt at updating the firmware to the current release was not successful so I'm going to be trying that again as well.


----------



## JackOften

Bejoy said:


> Oh, i just tried it again and I am getting the 4:2:0 SDR with *Bt.709.*
> (my source is the Roku Premiere Plus)
> 
> Originally I got:
> Amazon 4K = 8 bit 4:4:4 BT. 2020 HDR 2 and 24.00Hz
> Netflix 4K = 8 bit 4:2:0 *BT. 2020* SDR and 59.94 Hz
> 
> I guess I tricked the epson into bt2020, by hitting the netflix button (while I was watching amazon HDR) on the roku remote. So, it stayed in bt2020. If i hit home and then netflix, then it will be bt709. When you hit home it always goes back to BT709.
> 
> So, is there any way to get Netflix HDR on our Epson?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> .


I'm not so sure there is a way right now to get HDR 4k Netflix. It seems that Netflix only sends 4k/60hz HDR, and the 5040ub with it's 10GB hdmi processor/chip can't handle that. I've seen rumors of the NVidia workaround but as a shield owner, I haven't been able to download the latest firmware to test it.

We know that Amazon can send a 4k/24hz HDR signal, so it will be up to Netflix to send a 4k/24hz signal with HDR for us to get support at some point.


----------



## Evan201

Really interested in the new 2017 Nvidia Shield TV for its fixed 24hz option and being able to properly pass HDR and BT2020 to the 5040ub for Amazon and Netflix UHD viewing. 

I have a monoprice 4 port switch that is going into the 5040. Does anyone know if the Nvidia Shield TV will be able to pass HDR and BT2020 through the switch or will the Nvidia Shield have to be direct into the back of the PJ?


----------



## TheGizzard

The new Shield locks in 24p according to reports enabling 4K HDR on this projector. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## JackOften

Glenn Rubin said:


> I have the same two units with my projector, the UB900 but the Roku Ultra. There's no way to stream HDR on either. Kind of ridiculous but it is what it is. Personally after watching several 4K discs on the UB900 in HDR and comparing with 4K streams on Netflix, Amazon and Youtube I think the 4K without HDR looks maybe a little better. The HDR is nice but a little too dark.


With a decent amount of time manipulating the settings, I had good results watching "Man on High Castle" via Amazon with HDR. Looked fantastic. Netflix isn't sending HDR via 4k/24hz right now so we aren't really seeing HDR. Haven't tested YouTube yet.


----------



## Oledurt

achanonier said:


> Yes that's why I wanted to share with you guys.
> 
> The Bright cinema mode cleary exhibits that the blacks are both greyish AND muted like there is not contrast. Its gamma curve must be very weired...
> 
> 
> 
> Also for the second set of picture look at how the blue part of the flags stand out on the Custom curve and OLed and how it melts with the wall behind onn the Bright cinema mode...
> 
> 
> 
> And for the last one if you check the lower part of the image there is much more details in the houses with the custom curve too and it maintains a better black level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the gamma values for those who wondered
> 
> From left to right
> 
> 
> 
> 0
> 
> +19
> 
> +27
> 
> +29
> 
> +30
> 
> +30
> 
> +28
> 
> +20
> 
> 0




For those wondering about HDR on this projector. These custom gamma settings should be used in Natural mode. Use HDR 1 with super white on. Set color Saturation to 55 to compensate for the gamma curve.

If you do this you will get a very good (not too dark) image with HDR.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## db999md

TheGizzard said:


> This is great news. 4K HDR with the nvidia shield. Can you confirm if the new 2017 version is required, or if it works on the old version as well? I ask because the new version does not include an IR sensor unless you buy the 2017 Shield Pro.


I do not have the older device so I do not know.

What I can tell you is that the CEC controls work fine, so I can use the projector's remote to control the nvidia shield.
the proejctor's HDMI link menu let me switch and control the nvidia, the ruku ultra+ , and the samsung blu-ray right from the projector remote. And, when I choose one of the devices the receiver changes to the right input. Acutally works pretty darn well.


----------



## TheGizzard

db999md said:


> I do not have the older device so I do not know.
> 
> What I can tell you is that the CEC controls work fine, so I can use the projector's remote to control the nvidia shield.
> the proejctor's HDMI link menu let me switch and control the nvidia, the ruku ultra+ , and the samsung blu-ray right from the projector remote. And, when I choose one of the devices the receiver changes to the right input. Acutally works pretty darn well.



That's terrific news. I was going to buy the Nvidia Shield Pro just so that I could get IR control with my Control4 universal remote. What receiver are you using?


----------



## Evan201

ANYONE KNOW if I can use a thumb drive formatted in FAT32 to run the firmware update via USB?


----------



## hckymstr19

Oledurt said:


> For those wondering about HDR on this projector. These custom gamma settings should be used in Natural mode. Use HDR 1 with super white on. Set color Saturation to 55 to compensate for the gamma curve.
> 
> If you do this you will get a very good (not too dark) image with HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Does natural take you out of the p3 color?


----------



## spirithockey79

This HDR stuff is driving me crazy! Just when I think I have a decent picture I try a different UHD movie and the settings are awful (usually too dark of a picture). I was going back and forth from The Shallows and Star Trek Into Darkness and wanted to pull my hair out!


----------



## dvdwilly3

spirithockey79 said:


> This HDR stuff is driving me crazy! Just when I think I have a decent picture I try a different UHD movie and the settings are awful (usually too dark of a picture). I was going back and forth from The Shallows and Star Trek Into Darkness and wanted to pull my hair out!


You should be aware that there are two groups of studios that are mastering to significantly different levels.

One group is mastering to 1000 nits and the other to 4000 nits.

I forget which studios belong to which groups...you can search the forum and find the list.

I would suggest setting up for the first group and Save to Memory as HDR1000. Then, do the same with
the other group except name that set of settings HDR4000.

Then, depending on whose UHD you are running, use the appropriate setting.


----------



## Jonathan Schwabe

Hi all, im about to buy a epson 9300(5040), what 4k ultra blu ray player is recommended?


----------



## Evan201

Jonathan Schwabe said:


> Hi all, im about to buy a epson 9300(5040), what 4k ultra blu ray player is recommended?


From what I gather you should buy the Philips BDP7501 for UHD discs and the Nvidia Shield TV (2017) for 4k/24hz streaming.


----------



## Chris the Rock

hckymstr19 said:


> Does natural take you out of the p3 color?


It is a fact that the Natural mode does not activate the "color filter" that is used for Cinema and Digital Cinema modes, specifically made for displaying wide color gamut. 

I can't speak with any authority or knowledge about how much less color you can actually see when in Natural mode, though. I use Natural for watching Blu Rays and playing games and have been very satisfied.


----------



## Docj04

Nobody has any Directv calibration settings recommendations?


----------



## Oledurt

hckymstr19 said:


> Does natural take you out of the p3 color?




It is true that natural does not use the color filter like digital cinema does. However it still is using BT 2020 which is a container for the P3 colorspace.

So it is showing a wider color gamut than rec 709, but not as much as cinema/digital cinema. That being said the difference is negligible in my opinion.

The brightness and HDR of Natural mode as well as color accuracy is more of a noticeable improvement.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> It is true that natural does not use the color filter like digital cinema does. However it still is using BT 2020 which is a container for the P3 colorspace.
> 
> So it is showing a wider color gamut than rec 709, but not as much as cinema/digital cinema. That being said the difference is negligible in my opinion.
> 
> The brightness and HDR of Natural mode as well as color accuracy is more of a noticeable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




I completely agree that for HDR material Natural seems to be the best along with HDR1. I go back and forth between Natural and Dig Cinema for Blu-ray.


----------



## spirithockey79

dvdwilly3 said:


> You should be aware that there are two groups of studios that are mastering to significantly different levels.
> 
> One group is mastering to 1000 nits and the other to 4000 nits.
> 
> I forget which studios belong to which groups...you can search the forum and find the list.
> 
> I would suggest setting up for the first group and Save to Memory as HDR1000. Then, do the same with
> the other group except name that set of settings HDR4000.
> 
> Then, depending on whose UHD you are running, use the appropriate setting.




Interesting. I remember some discussion in this thread about how studios have been mastering for various nits levels, but I must have missed the fact that they ALWAYS master that way. I like your memory idea. Star Trek was Paramount and The Shallows is Sony if that helps.


----------



## carp

All this talk of HDR has me curious to try it. Will it even work with the Oppo 203 though? I think it won't work well either way with my size screen but I'm just curious. I've been using strip metadata and the picture looks great on 4k disks.


----------



## hckymstr19

Oledurt said:


> It is true that natural does not use the color filter like digital cinema does. However it still is using BT 2020 which is a container for the P3 colorspace.
> 
> So it is showing a wider color gamut than rec 709, but not as much as cinema/digital cinema. That being said the difference is negligible in my opinion.
> 
> The brightness and HDR of Natural mode as well as color accuracy is more of a noticeable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Awesome I'll have to give it a shot when my Philips bdp7501 arrives this Saturday.


----------



## Bejoy

Evan201 said:


> From what I gather you should buy the Philips BDP7501 for UHD discs and the Nvidia Shield TV (2017) for 4k/24hz streaming.


Is there a benefit to having the Philips UHD player over the Panasonic UHD player? 

(I am getting HDR with the Panasonic UB900 so i wasnt sure if there are any advantages with the Philips player.) they are only $199 with a movie included, so if so, I may get one..

Thanks!


----------



## seplant

*Issue with Philips UHD player*

I picked up the Philips BDP7501 UHD player last week when Target had them on sale. I was wondering if any other Epson 5040/6040 owners are having issues with the Philips player not always recognizing the Epson as a 4K UHD display. This behavior seems to be intermittent in my setup. I am using Monoprice Certified Premium High Speed HDMI cables both between the player and my Anthem 720 receiver and between the receiver and the projector. I have no such issues with a Roku Premiere + using the same type of cables.


----------



## seplant

brianlvi3 said:


> Hey guys, I have asked and searched but can't find the answer. Will the 3D glasses I had for my Epson 5020UB work for my new 5040UB?
> 
> Thanks.


As long as they are RF and not IR they should work.


----------



## seplant

hckymstr19 said:


> So I just wanted to get everyone's opinion. I just got this projector and love it, been playing blurays through my ps4 pro and they look amazing. But I am debating about getting the Philips bdp7501 UHD player and wondering if everyone thinks it is worth it or not. Are the UHD videos going to be THAT much better looking that I will notice? Let me know your opinions, thanks


 That's a tough one! Personally, I'm having a hard time making the jump to UHD Blu-rays. This projector does such a phenomenal job of up-scaling standard blu-rays it is hard to imagine UHD blu-rays being so much better as to justify the extra expense. I know there are people in this thread who are enjoying 4K HDR UHDs using various custom settings, but I'm just not there yet. As my post above indicates, I did just purchase the Philips BDP-7501, which I'm having issues with and which came with the Creed UHD blu-ray. Granted, this is probably one of the worst UHD discs to do a comparison on, but I've tried all the recommended settings for HDR and none of them make this disc look better than the standard blu-ray. I own almost 600 standard blu-rays, so I wouldn't even think about replacing all or most of them with UHD, but if there are some UHD discs out there that are significantly better than their standard blu-rays, I would be interested in finding out what those are and doing a comparison with those.


----------



## seplant

TheGizzard said:


> Is it worth getting this projector if my intention is to play 4k and HDR? I believe I read that it does not support HDR10 which I understand to be the current HDR standard I should be looking for. Does the addition of the HD Fury Linker give this projector full HDR10 capability?


This projector absolutely DOES support HDR10. That is the standard for UHD blu-rays. You do not need the HD Fury Linker for full HDR10 capability. What this projector does not support is Dolby Vision (DV), but even when DV discs start to be released, they will also include HDR10, so those discs should play just fine on this projector, although without the advantages of DV. For more information on HDR10 vs. Dolby Vision, see this article.


----------



## db999md

TheGizzard said:


> That's terrific news. I was going to buy the Nvidia Shield Pro just so that I could get IR control with my Control4 universal remote. What receiver are you using?



Denon X2200W


----------



## Oledurt

seplant said:


> That's a tough one! Personally, I'm having a hard time making the jump to UHD Blu-rays. This projector does such a phenomenal job of up-scaling standard blu-rays it is hard to imagine UHD blu-rays being so much better as to justify the extra expense. I know there are people in this thread who are enjoying 4K HDR UHDs using various custom settings, but I'm just not there yet. As my post above indicates, I did just purchase the Philips BDP-7501, which I'm having issues with and which came with the Creed UHD blu-ray. Granted, this is probably one of the worst UHD discs to do a comparison on, but I've tried all the recommended settings for HDR and none of them make this disc look better than the standard blu-ray. I own almost 600 standard blu-rays, so I wouldn't even think about replacing all or most of them with UHD, but if there are some UHD discs out there that are significantly better than their standard blu-rays, I would be interested in finding out what those are and doing a comparison with those.




This whole 4k HDR thing is pretty new. When I first got the Epson and tried watching UHD I was very underwhelmed by UHD. Now I really appreciate the improvements.

My advice is to really spend time watching some 4k material with HDR to get used to what you are seeing. Brightness does not always mean better.

We are used to seeing Blu Ray in the Standard Dynamic Range. As someone else said above the HDR 10 standard is sometimes using a maximum luminance value of 4000 nits and sometimes 1000 nits. 

Like Blu Ray not all UHD discs are amazing transfers. I personally thought the Creed UHD was really good in 4k. If you want to see a reference 4k disc watch The Revenant.

Color banding which is common on blu ray discs has been nearly eliminated on 4k discs. Shimmer on things like metal objects, cars, clouds etc look better with HDR. Lighting ie flashlights, car head lights, lamps, sun etc all look way better with HDR.

Granted, HDR is not done as well as it will be in a few years, but I still find it a good improvement over regular blu ray.

Watch more movies in UHD don't give up.


----------



## Migeye

Evan201 said:


> My new 5040ub is less than two weeks old also purchased from Best Buy. I have noticed the turbo fan noise a couple times. Nothing too often.


I asked this also on a Dutch forum and also there owners experience the loud fan noise at startup sometimes. Maybe it's by design then for some reason (blowing out dust from time to time:grin


----------



## Smarty-pants

JackOften said:


> I'm not so sure there is a way right now to get HDR 4k Netflix. It seems that Netflix only sends 4k/60hz HDR, and the 5040ub with it's 10GB hdmi processor/chip can't handle that. I've seen rumors of the NVidia workaround but as a shield owner, I haven't been able to download the latest firmware to test it.
> 
> We know that Amazon can send a 4k/24hz HDR signal, so it will be up to Netflix to send a 4k/24hz signal with HDR for us to get support at some point.


4K/60 4:2:0 8-bit is 8.9 GBps

I'm not sure why everyone wants HDR anyway since it's more or less too dark for large projection systems.
I'd be perfectly happy with SDR BT.2020 as long as they do it right.
I actually do get that with some shows on my Roku Premier+.


----------



## rogermoore123

Oledurt said:


> It is true that natural does not use the color filter like digital cinema does. However it still is using BT 2020 which is a container for the P3 colorspace.
> 
> So it is showing a wider color gamut than rec 709, but not as much as cinema/digital cinema. That being said the difference is negligible in my opinion.
> 
> The brightness and HDR of Natural mode as well as color accuracy is more of a noticeable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


You can set the image to Rec2020 color gamut in any mode but the digital cinema mode is the only one that can correctly map the UHD rec2020 signal to 100% of DCI P3.
Other non filter modes can be used to gain lumens after a full color calibration but you will still lose some of the wider gamut which is a major benefit of UHD's.


----------



## Smarty-pants

^ The Cinema color mode also uses the P3 filter, but I am not 100% sure how Cinema and Digital Cinema differ from each other.


----------



## Oledurt

rogermoore123 said:


> You can set the image to Rec2020 color gamut in any mode but the digital cinema mode is the only one that can correctly map the UHD rec2020 signal to 100%.
> 
> Other non filter modes can be used to gain lumens after a full color calibration but you will still lose some of the wider gamut which is a major benefit of UHD's.




I agree with all of this except the part where you say it is a major benefit. On this projector it is not a major benefit. Sacrificing 50% lumens for a Wider Color gamut is a bad idea with HDR.

Let's wait and see what Epson comes up with to handle the brightness issues with HDR. I am certain they will address it in a firmware update at some point.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## achanonier

Oledurt said:


> I agree with all of this except the part where you say it is a major benefit. On this projector it is not a major benefit. Sacrificing 50% lumens for a Wider Color gamut is a bad idea with HDR.
> 
> Let's wait and see what Epson comes up with to handle the brightness issues with HDR. I am certain they will address it in a firmware update at some point.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Totally agree with you.

The gammut difference is hard to tell without color measurement tools, on the contrary increased brightness is an immediate and visible benefice.
And now with the custom gamma curve I now enjoy HDR without wondering if the BLu ray or SDR would look better and without fiddling with settings between movies...





PS : the slight white clipping is due to my camera...


----------



## rogermoore123

Oledurt said:


> I agree with all of this except the part where you say it is a major benefit. On this projector it is not a major benefit. Sacrificing 50% lumens for a Wider Color gamut is a bad idea with HDR.
> 
> Let's wait and see what Epson comes up with to handle the brightness issues with HDR. I am certain they will address it in a firmware update at some point.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Here is an interesting article for viewing UHD and calibrating for Rec 2020 with HDR forced off in the projector.

https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&nv=1&rurl=translate.google.com.au&sl=auto&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=http://performances-home-cinema.fr/2016/12/03/test-calibration-video-rec709-rec2020-epson-tw9300/&usg=ALkJrhjHC6H-OyBlnjJwu-bJLdK_0EDYMw


----------



## TheGizzard

db999md said:


> Denon X2200W


Very cool. I need a new receiver and this has everything. The only "problem" I see is too many HDMI ports. What am I going to plug into all these. As it stands I currently view everything through a Roku. Add Xbox, Shield... And I can't think of anything else. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdwilly3

spirithockey79 said:


> Interesting. I remember some discussion in this thread about how studios have been mastering for various nits levels, but I must have missed the fact that they ALWAYS master that way. I like your memory idea. Star Trek was Paramount and The Shallows is Sony if that helps.


I found this by Carbon FtPrt...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...000-x7000-owners-thread-431.html#post45901641

I do not know whether he is maintaining the list or not...


----------



## hckymstr19

Oledurt said:


> This whole 4k HDR thing is pretty new. When I first got the Epson and tried watching UHD I was very underwhelmed by UHD. Now I really appreciate the improvements.
> 
> My advice is to really spend time watching some 4k material with HDR to get used to what you are seeing. Brightness does not always mean better.
> 
> We are used to seeing Blu Ray in the Standard Dynamic Range. As someone else said above the HDR 10 standard is sometimes using a maximum luminance value of 4000 nits and sometimes 1000 nits.
> 
> Like Blu Ray not all UHD discs are amazing transfers. I personally thought the Creed UHD was really good in 4k. If you want to see a reference 4k disc watch The Revenant.
> 
> Color banding which is common on blu ray discs has been nearly eliminated on 4k discs. Shimmer on things like metal objects, cars, clouds etc look better with HDR. Lighting ie flashlights, car head lights, lamps, sun etc all look way better with HDR.
> 
> Granted, HDR is not done as well as it will be in a few years, but I still find it a good improvement over regular blu ray.
> 
> Watch more movies in UHD don't give up.


Yea that's what I'm thinking, certain disks will definitely be better than others. I'm gunna give it a shot, found an amazing deal for a Philips for 80$ so couldn't pass it up and I'm gunna get the revenant and use that as a Baseline because I know that is a perfect reference point for 4k. See what happens I guess


----------



## Oledurt

rogermoore123 said:


> Here is an interesting article for viewing UHD and calibrating for Rec 2020 with HDR forced off in the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> https://translate.googleusercontent...w9300/&usg=ALkJrhjHC6H-OyBlnjJwu-bJLdK_0EDYMw




interesting article...would have been nice if he posted his settings. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Valleyboy

Just picked up the Phillips UHD player. Can anyone tell me the best settings on the player for this projector? And do you have different settings for standard Blu Rays vs UHD discs? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## v8maro

So I just bought an HD Fury linker for this thing and I'm trying to get it to do 4k24 420 12bit so I can watch an HDR movie from my xbox one s. I am kind of lost on how to set this up, anyone know how to do this??

I thought I was supposed to set it to 2.2/THRU then on the EDID tab select preset 18 (4k24 422 12bit all sound) and then thats it??

Do I need to mess with the scaler tab?

Kinda lost


----------



## v8maro

v8maro said:


> So I just bought an HD Fury linker for this thing and I'm trying to get it to do 4k24 420 12bit so I can watch an HDR movie from my xbox one s. I am kind of lost on how to set this up, anyone know how to do this??
> 
> I thought I was supposed to set it to 2.2/THRU then on the EDID tab select preset 18 (4k24 422 12bit all sound) and then thats it??
> 
> Do I need to mess with the scaler tab?
> 
> Kinda lost


ok, so I was able to take my xbox one s and get it to output this:
4k24-422 12-bit BT.2020 All Sound

Now, when I look at the projector info, its showing:
4k 24hz
12 bit 4:2:2
BT.2020 SDR

Which means I have everything active that I set in the Linker - I still cannot figure out how to turn HDR on - anyone know how I can do that with the Linker?


----------



## db999md

v8maro said:


> ok, so I was able to take my xbox one s and get it to output this:
> 4k24-422 12-bit BT.2020 All Sound
> 
> Now, when I look at the projector info, its showing:
> 4k 24hz
> 12 bit 4:2:2
> BT.2020 SDR
> 
> Which means I have everything active that I set in the Linker - I still cannot figure out how to turn HDR on - anyone know how I can do that with the Linker?


Your problem is that unless the xbox sees 4:4:4 capability at 24hz it will not allow HDR.
So you need to set your EDID at #2 , so xbox thinks you can do everything. 

Then you need to go to the scaler tab and set a 30hz preset to 12 bit 4:2:2 and it should work. 
Set the 60hz preset at 1080p, 4:4:4 so that if the xbox tries to display anything that the projector does not support it will scale it down to 1080p 4:4:4 (this will allow you to see netflix HDR in 1080p if you want)
ignore edid limits should be UNCHECKED
color dept should be same as source (not sure the exact text on those options)

Then run the display detection thing on xbox it will show that you can do everything 

you should be good to go --> 4k60 sources will be downscaled to 1080p 4:4:4 with orig color depth
4k24/25/30 sources will be converted to 4:2:2 with orig color depth and HDR will be kept


----------



## Smarty-pants

Oledurt said:


> I agree with all of this except the part where you say it is a major benefit. On this projector it is not a major benefit. Sacrificing 50% lumens for a Wider Color gamut is a bad idea with HDR.
> 
> Let's wait and see what Epson comes up with to handle the brightness issues with HDR. I am certain they will address it in a firmware update at some point.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm glad you are confident. Mine wanes since since the pj has been released now for like 5-6 months and only 1 very minor update so far.
I wouldn't be surprised if we are stuck with the way it is.


----------



## mhendu

gnolivos said:


> I had the same question. But I then figured it doesn't really need to be defaulted prior to setting your desired position.
> 
> Just move it well away from your final intended position. Then move the image in ONE direction only vertically. And then in ONE direction horizontally. Make sure more than 10 clicks are needed. Done.


This should be pinned at the top of the thread - so helpful! Saved me a tremendous amount of frustration with lens memory on this projector, really the only significant issue that I've had.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> It is true that natural does not use the color filter like digital cinema does. However it still is using BT 2020 which is a container for the P3 colorspace.
> 
> So it is showing a wider color gamut than rec 709, but not as much as cinema/digital cinema. That being said the difference is negligible in my opinion.
> 
> The brightness and HDR of Natural mode as well as color accuracy is more of a noticeable improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



No. Natural will not show color gamut outside REC.709


----------



## dataJunkie

crosswire said:


> Hello all
> I just upgraded my home theatre almost the whole 9 yards. This is what I ended up getting.
> 
> Epson 5040ub
> Denon x2300w
> Samsung k8500
> 
> So far, I plugged it all in and did the audio calibration and was up and running. Switched to Cinema mode and was blown away on my 110" 4k projector screen. I have a few questions, coming from a 7 year old system.
> 
> 
> 
> Does the 5040ub do the auto lens shift from 16x9 to 2.35:1 like the ae4000u I had did? I see that lens1 and lens 2 button on remote nothing happens when pressed.
> My devices did all the firmware updates today included the DTS.x on the denon. Also the samsung player. I'm not sure about the epson yet as I cant figure out the firmware version I have. see link https://postimg.org/image/9vz3q0jz3
> 
> 
> The website did have a firmware via usb but not sure if I should do it and benefits of what features come with it.?
> Also should I be calibrating the epson out of the box or where would I start?
> The denon did its most recent update on the DTS.x and not sure if im supposes to activate the dts.x feature it or is it automatic?
> Re the 4k upscaling..All 3 products have that built in. Which one is the actual ideal 4k upscaler for bluray discs.I connect the samsung to the denon and then out to the epson or is it all automatically taken care off?
> 
> Much thanks for any assistance.


Hi there,

I have a very similar setup to yours, apart from the AV (Denon X6200W here). 

I've had the setup for about 3 months now, and have been endlessly tinkering with settings since then 

I've tried 4K Enhancement on the PJ, AV Upscaling and a mixture of the two, and in my limited experience I can't say that there's much difference. (Sorry). But this isn't a bad thing as I'm still blown away by the picture whenever I fire the PJ up. Sometimes I find that completely turning off the IP Conversion on the AV enhances the blacks when I watch Netflix on my Amazon 4K Fire unit, and other times enabling the Picture Mode to Movie on the Denon enhances some other TV Series (The Expanse). So it depends on the video being fed into it.

I have recenly discovered that the most accurate reading of what is being output is to go to the 'General' Page of your Denon AV Settings and go to 'Information' .. under there you will see Video Output settings ... and this will tell you what the original signal it's receiving is and what it is outputting it to, the Colour Range and the Bit Rate ... more informative than what you'll get on the PJ.

The Samsung plays any 4K Content thrown at it and defaults to HDR2. It's hella darker that what you'd be used to, but if you sit with it and let your eyes adjust, HDR really does outshine SDR. In dark scenes you really notice the flicker and shimmer of any light source with the dynamic contrast kicking in and giving an almost 3D Effect to the picture (The scene in Warcraft where they are going through the portal is just eye-popping in HDR motion). I've not made much changes to the BD Player at all. 

The PS4 Pro does a fantastic job at HDR (limited to 1080p tho ... but Ratchet & Clank is a joy to behlod).

I also have a Gaming PC hooked up, and found the 2160 x 1440p the sweet spot for gaming ... and when running in this mode, the PJ (for some reason) reads the output as 1080P... runs at 8-bit @ 60HZ tho ... so not complaining . Resident Evil 7 supports HDR on PC, so this will be my first experience of HDR from my PC when I get to try this at the weekend ... will report back any findings 

I've my eye on the NVidia Shield now as it has just been announced that all original versions are getting a firmware update to support Amazon and Netflix in 4K HDR, (Amazon Fire doesnt).

Hope this helps.

n


----------



## v8maro

db999md said:


> Your problem is that unless the xbox sees 4:4:4 capability at 24hz it will not allow HDR.
> So you need to set your EDID at #2 , so xbox thinks you can do everything.
> 
> Then you need to go to the scaler tab and set a 30hz preset to 12 bit 4:2:2 and it should work.
> Set the 60hz preset at 1080p, 4:4:4 so that if the xbox tries to display anything that the projector does not support it will scale it down to 1080p 4:4:4 (this will allow you to see netflix HDR in 1080p if you want)
> ignore edid limits should be UNCHECKED
> color dept should be same as source (not sure the exact text on those options)
> 
> Then run the display detection thing on xbox it will show that you can do everything
> 
> you should be good to go --> 4k60 sources will be downscaled to 1080p 4:4:4 with orig color depth
> 4k24/25/30 sources will be converted to 4:2:2 with orig color depth and HDR will be kept


Thank you! This helped a lot, I was able to get the xbox to show check marks for every setting - however, when I went to play an HDR movie (jupiter ascending) it still displayed in SDR! The HDR tab did show HDR metadata but the input section in the top right shows HDR Input not active. Ideas??

edit: ok....got it working and I didnt change anything, just needed a power cycle? odd.

Anyways, if I want to play netflix in 4k without HDR, is that possible?

Thanks again!!!!


----------



## vevans001

Hi all.....brace yourself for some first time projector owner questions. I've got my wires ran and everything but the projector is in place - ready to purchase my new Epson. Questions:

1) Pros/cons to purchasing the projector online versus going to Best Buy (I think it's my only local option)? 

2) I noticed there was a tiny price drop on Amazon. Nothing as substantial as we've seen on a couple previous occasions (I should have bought it then). There isn't any indication of another one of those sales in the near future, correct?

3) When looking at the projector on Amazon, I notice that there are 4 and 5 year protection plans. Are these worth it, or no? 

Thanks in advance for your advice!


----------



## exm

Jonathan Schwabe said:


> Hi all, im about to buy a epson 9300(5040), what 4k ultra blu ray player is recommended?


If you can afford it, get the Oppo.


----------



## carp

I'm curious if anyone else has had this issue:

Twice in the past couple weeks when I turn on the projector the picture is out of focus, and changing the focus does nothing. Also there is a blue line that runs vertically right down the middle of the screen. 

When this happens all I can do is turn it off and turn it back on. When it is turned back on it sounds like a jet engine is getting ready to take off in my room. After 10 seconds or so the fan calms down and the picture comes on and all is fine. 

I'm taking it back today to Nebraska Furniture Mart. I bought it the first week in December but they had a holiday return policy in place that says you have until the end of December to return anything.


----------



## hckymstr19

aaranddeeman said:


> No. Natural will not show color gamut outside REC.709


Is this 100% confirmed? Even if playing a 4k UHD through my Philips bdp7501 and getting bt2020?


----------



## carp

carp said:


> I'm curious if anyone else has had this issue:
> 
> Twice in the past couple weeks when I turn on the projector the picture is out of focus, and changing the focus does nothing. Also there is a blue line that runs vertically right down the middle of the screen.
> 
> When this happens all I can do is turn it off and turn it back on. When it is turned back on it sounds like a jet engine is getting ready to take off in my room. After 10 seconds or so the fan calms down and the picture comes on and all is fine.
> 
> I'm taking it back today to Nebraska Furniture Mart. I bought it the first week in December but they had a holiday return policy in place that says you have until the end of December to return anything.



Oops, I meant end of January.


----------



## Oledurt

aaranddeeman said:


> No. Natural will not show color gamut outside REC.709



ok thanks. do you use those cinema settings for uhd discs or just blu ray?


----------



## Glenn Rubin

Bejoy said:


> Is there a benefit to having the Philips UHD player over the Panasonic UHD player?
> 
> (I am getting HDR with the Panasonic UB900 so i wasnt sure if there are any advantages with the Philips player.) they are only $199 with a movie included, so if so, I may get one..
> 
> Thanks!


I can say I noticed a vast improvement in picture quality streaming my Netflix over the Panasonic UB900 as compared to the Roku Ultra. Roku Ultra is very good but the UB900 is fantastic. Only thing I don't like about the Panasonic is the apps. They have Netflix and Youtube and then a bunch of rubbish. No Amazon.


----------



## firefox20000

hckymstr19 said:


> Is this 100% confirmed? Even if playing a 4k UHD through my Philips bdp7501 and getting bt2020?


When you play uhd-bluray and use natural mode, then you get 89% of DCI-P3. The greatest backjump is on "Green", "Red" and "Blue" are a little bit down.


----------



## SALadder22FF

My Philips player came in with Pacific Rim 4K, Gravity 3D, some nature 4k and Avatar 3D. I tested out avatar last night with my girlfriend and she couldn't believe how good it looked. Didn't change any settings, just put in and started. She thought it looked better than Star Wars we just saw in 3D, which is understandable because it's made for 3D. The fact that it was BRIGHT, filled up my whole 120" screen and the 3D looked amazing made for an incredible home movie experience. The 3D on this projector is legit.


----------



## hckymstr19

firefox20000 said:


> When you play uhd-bluray and use natural mode, then you get 89% of DCI-P3. The greatest backjump is on "Green", "Red" and "Blue" are a little bit down.


But doesn't that contradict aaranddeeman when he said natural doesn't go outside 709, because p3 is outside 709 range is it not? Isn't p3 somewhere in between 709 and 2020. I feel like we are getting contradicting information here.


----------



## welldun

Hello all,

Could Shepdog or any one else who is able edit the first post, be as kind as to update it with some of the info and discoveries about the projector? There is a lot of good information buried in this thread, and this would help many of us who are either new or still trying to figure out what settings work best with which UHD player or streaming device etc. 

based on the structure of the original post, I believe that this was the intention all along.


----------



## sddp

SALadder22FF said:


> My Philips player came in with Pacific Rim 4K, Gravity 3D, some nature 4k and Avatar 3D. I tested out avatar last night with my girlfriend and she couldn't believe how good it looked. Didn't change any settings, just put in and started. She thought it looked better than Star Wars we just saw in 3D, which is understandable because it's made for 3D. The fact that it was BRIGHT, filled up my whole 120" screen and the 3D looked amazing made for an incredible home movie experience. The 3D on this projector is legit.




Did you notice any ghosting or crosstalk on any of those 3D movies?


----------



## Stecchino

SALadder22FF said:


> ....last night with my girlfriend and she couldn't believe how good it looked. Didn't change any settings, just put in and started. She thought it looked better than Star Wars we just saw in 3D, which is understandable because it's made for 3D. The fact that it was BRIGHT, filled up my whole 120" screen and the 3D looked amazing made for an incredible home movie experience. The 3D on this projector is legit.



Welcome to the club.


----------



## birdog

v8maro said:


> Thanks for the helpful info!! How would me having the 5040UBe help? I thought the only difference was the WirelessHD?
> 
> So the linker is $200, is it basically plug and play between the Denon and the PJ? I did read that some HDR BR players will play HDR content on the 5040 but those are anywhere from $300-400, so with me having the xbox one s already, the linker may be the solution.
> 
> I can be pretty patient, does MS/XBox plan to change the output format at all? And yeah, do you know the post number(s) with the info, I'd love to learn/read it. Unfortunately this thread is so long it's hard to find it!
> 
> Lastly, whats the difference between this:
> https://www.amazon.com/HD-Fury-Spli...84577312&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=HD+FURY+Linker
> 
> and this:
> https://www.hdfury.com/shop/videoprocessors/linker-4k60-444-600mhz/
> 
> Thanks!!!


Has anyone answered this question? I am interested to know how this would work as I have the 4040ub.


----------



## firefox20000

hckymstr19 said:


> But doesn't that contradict aaranddeeman when he said natural doesn't go outside 709, because p3 is outside 709 range is it not? Isn't p3 somewhere in between 709 and 2020. I feel like we are getting contradicting information here.


Look at this review:

https://translate.googleusercontent...owanie-obrazu-z-szerok-palet-barw-rec-2020dcihttps://translate.google.de/transla...n-eh-tw9300w-test-projektora-lcd-4k-ultra-hd/


----------



## hckymstr19

firefox20000 said:


> Look at this review:
> 
> https://translate.googleusercontent...owanie-obrazu-z-szerok-palet-barw-rec-2020dcihttps://translate.google.de/transla...n-eh-tw9300w-test-projektora-lcd-4k-ultra-hd/


Perfect, that's what I was looking for. But why is it all these really in depth calibrations never come with what the settings were on the projector to get those results.


----------



## SALadder22FF

sddp said:


> Did you notice any ghosting or crosstalk on any of those 3D movies?


only watched Avatar. None of the above. Just a gorgeous movie.


----------



## sddp

SALadder22FF said:


> only watched Avatar. None of the above. Just a gorgeous movie.




Thanks!


Did you change any settings from factory?


What mode where you in?


I am dying to see Avatar in 3D on this. Just haven't had time to do the Spears and M calibration yet


----------



## Docj04

Relative to "4k enhancement" the manual indicates that it "accepts 4K signals and enhances the output of 1080p signals".
why is it that the 4K enhancement setting is grayed out within my image enhancement menu?
I have the feed from my Directv box running into my yamaha rx-a2050 via hdmi--and then out from the yamaha into the 5040ub also via hdmi.

I can't help but wonder if menu is grayed out due to the 5040 not receiving, or not "knowing" that it's receiving 1080p, and therefore not giving me the option to turn on 4k enhancement.
I have the resolution set on the Directv box set at 1080p. Is it possible that yamaha avr is somehow not passing the 1080 through??


----------



## gnolivos

It's greyed because you are receiving 4k content and it forces it ON. Likely your Yamaha is doing 4k upscale so the projector thinks it is 4k. (And it in fact is!)


----------



## Docj04

gnolivos said:


> It's greyed because you are receiving 4k content and it forces it ON. Likely your Yamaha is doing 4k upscale so the projector thinks it is 4k. (And it in fact is!)


Just checked. The yamaha video processing was set to auto. Upon swithcing to 1080p, "4k enhancement" did illuminate. Then, upon swithching the yamaha processing to 4K, the 4k enhancement option again grayed out (likely as per your suggestion, I'd assume).

What kinda stinks is that I see no actual picture quality difference when swithcing through the different settings


----------



## seplant

sddp said:


> Did you notice any ghosting or crosstalk on any of those 3D movies?


I have watched a few 3D movies on my 6040, and I noticed cross talk on only one so far: Edge of Tomorrow. Certain scenes in this film had it really bad. I could go back to the same scenes and see the cross talk was still there. However, a couple of days later I tried that film again, and there was very little cross talk in those scenes where it was terrible previously, so I'm not quite sure what was going on with that one.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## SALadder22FF

So I snapped some pictures of the different sources I have and was wondering if anyone could help me with what is the best. I'm assuming 4:4:4 is the best, but what about 60 vs 24 hz. 

I'm just curious what the different 8bit vs 12bit vs 4:4:4 vs 24 vs 60hz means.

Red shirt coming out of blue door is DirecTV 4K
Underwater fish shot is Philips 4k nature 4k blu ray
Waterfall with green and brown is Philips Netflix
Waterfall Zoomed in is Roku Ultra Netflix
Snowy Mountains with Blue Water is Philps Youtube
Snowboarder on mountain is Roku Ultra Youtube


Thanks for any help


----------



## SALadder22FF

sddp said:


> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Did you change any settings from factory?
> 
> 
> What mode where you in?
> 
> 
> I am dying to see Avatar in 3D on this. Just haven't had time to do the Spears and M calibration yet


No changes. I was in 3d natural. Looks absolutely amazing.


----------



## aaranddeeman

hckymstr19 said:


> Is this 100% confirmed? Even if playing a 4k UHD through my Philips bdp7501 and getting bt2020?


BT.2020 is only the container. It carries both REC.709 and DCI-P3 gamut and will use appropriate based on display capability.
If on Cinema or DIgitial Cinema, you will get DCI-P3 else it will be only REC.709
At least this my understanding. I am all ears to find out otherwise.


----------



## achanonier

hckymstr19 said:


> But doesn't that contradict aaranddeeman when he said natural doesn't go outside 709, because p3 is outside 709 range is it not? Isn't p3 somewhere in between 709 and 2020. I feel like we are getting contradicting information here.



Actually Natural mode can get you outside 709 but not full P3.
It's somewhere in between but then again without a spectrometer I'm not sure you'll see any difference.

On the other hand just compare HDR BT2020 input with natural mode and then switch to SDR BT709 also with Natural mode and you'll immediately see the improved gammut..


----------



## crosswire

dataJunkie said:


> Hi there,
> 
> I have a very similar setup to yours, apart from the AV (Denon X6200W here).
> 
> I've had the setup for about 3 months now, and have been endlessly tinkering with settings since then
> 
> I've tried 4K Enhancement on the PJ, AV Upscaling and a mixture of the two, and in my limited experience I can't say that there's much difference. (Sorry). But this isn't a bad thing as I'm still blown away by the picture whenever I fire the PJ up. Sometimes I find that completely turning off the IP Conversion on the AV enhances the blacks when I watch Netflix on my Amazon 4K Fire unit, and other times enabling the Picture Mode to Movie on the Denon enhances some other TV Series (The Expanse). So it depends on the video being fed into it.
> 
> I have recenly discovered that the most accurate reading of what is being output is to go to the 'General' Page of your Denon AV Settings and go to 'Information' .. under there you will see Video Output settings ... and this will tell you what the original signal it's receiving is and what it is outputting it to, the Colour Range and the Bit Rate ... more informative than what you'll get on the PJ.
> 
> The Samsung plays any 4K Content thrown at it and defaults to HDR2. It's hella darker that what you'd be used to, but if you sit with it and let your eyes adjust, HDR really does outshine SDR. In dark scenes you really notice the flicker and shimmer of any light source with the dynamic contrast kicking in and giving an almost 3D Effect to the picture (The scene in Warcraft where they are going through the portal is just eye-popping in HDR motion). I've not made much changes to the BD Player at all.
> 
> The PS4 Pro does a fantastic job at HDR (limited to 1080p tho ... but Ratchet & Clank is a joy to behlod).
> 
> I also have a Gaming PC hooked up, and found the 2160 x 1440p the sweet spot for gaming ... and when running in this mode, the PJ (for some reason) reads the output as 1080P... runs at 8-bit @ 60HZ tho ... so not complaining . Resident Evil 7 supports HDR on PC, so this will be my first experience of HDR from my PC when I get to try this at the weekend ... will report back any findings
> 
> I've my eye on the NVidia Shield now as it has just been announced that all original versions are getting a firmware update to support Amazon and Netflix in 4K HDR, (Amazon Fire doesnt).
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> n


HI thanks for the comprehensive response. I didn't even see the response. 

_Re: 4K Enhancement on the PJ, AV Up scaling
_I see that my 4k up scaling is greyed out in the projector currently so i assume the signal is 4k enhanced. I have not been in the AV settings lately but from memory, most of the settings were set to auto in there for hdmi and color etc. 

_Re: IP Conversion on the AV
_Where is this setting n what does this do?

_RE: HDR - The Samsung plays any 4K Content thrown at it and defaults to HDR2_
I assume, you need to have HDR movie to see the effect right? How I do know it defaults to HDR? I play my regular blu rays and dont see a diff. 

_Re: 'General' Page of your Denon AV Settings and go to 'Information' _
Will try this and report back and see. Right now, I have cinema mode on the epson with preset 3. So far it works. The black could be little blacker perhaps. I moved the brightness down a smidge. 


I do have the nvidia shield but hooked up to living room tv. I did watch netflix from the samsung player and seems ok. Both players seems to do HDR as you mentioned. 

I don't play any games as I have an unhooked ps3 laying around somewhere. It used to be my old bluray player.

Also how does ultraUDH 4k movies fare on the setup. I assume 4k signal is down converted and then 4k enhanced through projector? Is there a difference in resolution. My screen is 110" and i'm 14' feet away. 

Also I was watching 3d movies and in the 3d settings, have screen size and 3d depth. Even though my screen is 110".. 2.35:1, I have to push the screen size settings to 120" as I was seeing some double edge artifacts. It cleared it up immediately. The 3d depth... not sure how effective it is. I have it at 10 in mad max and looked ok, not immersive.


----------



## dholmes54

SALadder22FF said:


> My Philips player came in with Pacific Rim 4K, Gravity 3D, some nature 4k and Avatar 3D. I tested out avatar last night with my girlfriend and she couldn't believe how good it looked. Didn't change any settings, just put in and started. She thought it looked better than Star Wars we just saw in 3D, which is understandable because it's made for 3D. The fact that it was BRIGHT, filled up my whole 120" screen and the 3D looked amazing made for an incredible home movie experience. The 3D on this projector is legit.


May I ask where you bought the Phillips player?


----------



## Ryedhel

I'm a new owner of the 5040. I just completed my theatre room last week. I'll mention that I've only read up to page 37 of this thread so far. My main focus has been on the discussions surrounding HDR 4k playback. I connected my pj last weekend and finally picked up a 4k UHD blu-ray, Lucy, last night. I started it up and the HDR picture is outstanding. It's very bright and vibrant. I'm am not experiencing any of the dullness issues that I've read about. It could be that this issue has been resolved and I haven't gotten that far in this thread yet. Anyways, here is some info on my setup and the info of what is displaying.

Epson 5040
EluneVision Reference Studio 4K 115" audio weave screen
Philips 4K player
Deion X4300h
PJ Distance to screen is 13’10”

Projector Info during playback of Lucy UHD:
12 bit 4:2:2
BT.2020 HDR2
Image Enhancement is preset 1

I will mention that my projector was calibrated professionally. I've been mostly using "bright cinema" mode so far. The picture is extremely bright and that is in eco mode. I almost find it too bright. I've been going back in forth between bright cinema and cinema (I don’t believe my pj was calibrated in cinema though, just checking on that). When using cinema I have it on medium instead of eco. As I mentioned earlier I haven't experienced the dullness issues that others have mentioned on here when using HDR, and the picture is quite bright.

Here are a couple quick pictures with my iPhone 7. They suck but I’ve had limited time. One of each mode. I haven’t actually seen this movie yet so I didn’t want to get to far into it. Just a quick play to test some different modes and settings. I don’t have my blackout curtain yet for my window, so there is some light in the room but it’s fairly minimal.


----------



## SALadder22FF

dholmes54 said:


> May I ask where you bought the Phillips player?


Amazon


----------



## crosswire

Ryedhel said:


> I'm a new owner of the 5040. I just completed my theatre room last week. I'll mention that I've only read up to page 37 of this thread so far. My main focus has been on the discussions surrounding HDR 4k playback. I connected my pj last weekend and finally picked up a 4k UHD blu-ray, Lucy, last night. I started it up and the HDR picture is outstanding. It's very bright and vibrant. I'm am not experiencing any of the dullness issues that I've read about. It could be that this issue has been resolved and I haven't gotten that far in this thread yet. Anyways, here is some info on my setup and the info of what is displaying.
> 
> Epson 5040
> EluneVision Reference Studio 4K 115" audio weave screen
> Philips 4K player
> Deion X4300h
> PJ Distance to screen is 13’10”
> 
> Projector Info during playback of Lucy UHD:
> 12 bit 4:2:2
> BT.2020 HDR2
> Image Enhancement is preset 1
> 
> I will mention that my projector was calibrated professionally. I've been mostly using "bright cinema" mode so far. The picture is extremely bright and that is in eco mode. I almost find it too bright. I've been going back in forth between bright cinema and cinema (I don’t believe my pj was calibrated in cinema though, just checking on that). When using cinema I have it on medium instead of eco. As I mentioned earlier I haven't experienced the dullness issues that others have mentioned on here when using HDR, and the picture is quite bright.
> 
> Here are a couple quick pictures with my iPhone 7. They suck but I’ve had limited time. One of each mode. I haven’t actually seen this movie yet so I didn’t want to get to far into it. Just a quick play to test some different modes and settings. I don’t have my blackout curtain yet for my window, so there is some light in the room but it’s fairly minimal.


does the BT.2020 HDR2 work only for uhd 4k movies with HDR on them?


----------



## dholmes54

SALadder22FF said:


> Amazon


Thxs,I didn't know they where selling the Phillips with those movies included. I looked again it only comes with Creed,not a bad movie.


----------



## v8maro

Ryedhel said:


> I'm a new owner of the 5040. I just completed my theatre room last week. I'll mention that I've only read up to page 37 of this thread so far. My main focus has been on the discussions surrounding HDR 4k playback. I connected my pj last weekend and finally picked up a 4k UHD blu-ray, Lucy, last night. I started it up and the HDR picture is outstanding. It's very bright and vibrant. I'm am not experiencing any of the dullness issues that I've read about. It could be that this issue has been resolved and I haven't gotten that far in this thread yet. Anyways, here is some info on my setup and the info of what is displaying.
> 
> Epson 5040
> EluneVision Reference Studio 4K 115" audio weave screen
> Philips 4K player
> Deion X4300h
> PJ Distance to screen is 13’10”
> 
> Projector Info during playback of Lucy UHD:
> 12 bit 4:2:2
> BT.2020 HDR2
> Image Enhancement is preset 1
> 
> I will mention that my projector was calibrated professionally. I've been mostly using "bright cinema" mode so far. The picture is extremely bright and that is in eco mode. I almost find it too bright. I've been going back in forth between bright cinema and cinema (I don’t believe my pj was calibrated in cinema though, just checking on that). When using cinema I have it on medium instead of eco. As I mentioned earlier I haven't experienced the dullness issues that others have mentioned on here when using HDR, and the picture is quite bright.
> 
> Here are a couple quick pictures with my iPhone 7. They suck but I’ve had limited time. One of each mode. I haven’t actually seen this movie yet so I didn’t want to get to far into it. Just a quick play to test some different modes and settings. I don’t have my blackout curtain yet for my window, so there is some light in the room but it’s fairly minimal.


Can you post screen shots of all of your calibrations?


----------



## akgolf

Ryedhel said:


> I'm a new owner of the 5040. I just completed my theatre room last week. I'll mention that I've only read up to page 37 of this thread so far. My main focus has been on the discussions surrounding HDR 4k playback. I connected my pj last weekend and finally picked up a 4k UHD blu-ray, Lucy, last night. I started it up and the HDR picture is outstanding. It's very bright and vibrant. I'm am not experiencing any of the dullness issues that I've read about. It could be that this issue has been resolved and I haven't gotten that far in this thread yet. Anyways, here is some info on my setup and the info of what is displaying.
> 
> Epson 5040
> EluneVision Reference Studio 4K 115" audio weave screen
> Philips 4K player
> Deion X4300h
> PJ Distance to screen is 13’10”
> 
> Projector Info during playback of Lucy UHD:
> 12 bit 4:2:2
> BT.2020 HDR2
> Image Enhancement is preset 1
> 
> I will mention that my projector was calibrated professionally. I've been mostly using "bright cinema" mode so far. The picture is extremely bright and that is in eco mode. I almost find it too bright. I've been going back in forth between bright cinema and cinema (I don’t believe my pj was calibrated in cinema though, just checking on that). When using cinema I have it on medium instead of eco. As I mentioned earlier I haven't experienced the dullness issues that others have mentioned on here when using HDR, and the picture is quite bright.
> 
> Here are a couple quick pictures with my iPhone 7. They suck but I’ve had limited time. One of each mode. I haven’t actually seen this movie yet so I didn’t want to get to far into it. Just a quick play to test some different modes and settings. I don’t have my blackout curtain yet for my window, so there is some light in the room but it’s fairly minimal.


I noticed you have an acoustic transparent screen, so I assume you have the speakers behind the screen. I was also considering going that route and wondering how you like it.


----------



## Jonathan Schwabe

Hi all, I got my 9300 today and a new shield, but I can't get hdr on netflix on the shield, only 4k... help


----------



## HarleyRider

*What all gets saved in User memory?*

Sorry if I missed the answer to this in a previous post, but what all gets saved in the User Memory settings? Or rather, what does not? I would have expected the Color Space and Dynamic Range settings to be saved from the Signal-->Advanced... menu, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Or is the assumption that you'd calibrate all the Color Modes with the same Color Space and Dynamic Range settings? I did one user memory for TV on Bright Cinema, SDR, and another one for 4K UHD on Digital Cinema, HDR2. But seems all that gets saved are brightness, contrast, color, tint, etc. So I still have to manually change the Dynamic Range setting after loading the other settings from memory? Is this true or am I doing something wrong?


----------



## Valleyboy

Just curious what settings I should use on my Phillips 4k player to get the best picture on my 5040ub?


----------



## crosswire

Jonathan Schwabe said:


> Hi all, I got my 9300 today and a new shield, but I can't get hdr on netflix on the shield, only 4k... help


the shield just got a massive update today.


----------



## panman40

Going to calibrate my tw9300w at the weekend, I normally prefer to see all white detail so I'm thinking of using super white, obviously I need to decide before doing greyscale and colour gamut,

What are your thoughts about super white On or Off please ?.


----------



## Jonathan Schwabe

Ok. What version do you have. I got 5.0 (24.28.401.110)


----------



## aaranddeeman

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs,I didn't know they where selling the Phillips with those movies included. I looked again it only comes with Creed,not a bad movie.


May be you assumed they "came" with the player. OP might have just ordered them together..


----------



## Smarty-pants

panman40 said:


> Going to calibrate my tw9300w at the weekend, I normally prefer to see all white detail so I'm thinking of using super white, obviously I need to decide before doing greyscale and colour gamut,
> 
> What are your thoughts about super white On or Off please ?.


If you want the most accurate cinema/ISF-like calibrated picture, leave Super White ON.
You can calibrate with it off, but you contrast will be lowered in exchange for a brighter image.
I know that sounds contradictory, but kinda how it works.
There are more than one color mode in projector though, so you could try calibrating DIGITAL CINEMA with Super White on,
then calibrate CINEMA with Super White off and see the differences.
...or just calibrate both ways with Digital Cinema and save 2 different memory modes.


----------



## LumenChip

akgolf said:


> I noticed you have an acoustic transparent screen, so I assume you have the speakers behind the screen. I was also considering going that route and wondering how you like it.


I also bought the Elunevision AT screen. There is more to this setup than simply placing speakers behind the screen. The greatest benefit involves careful speaker selections, pair it with speakers that have above-average imaging and you will be greatly rewarded. With my setup it feels as if the sounds are being created where the action is on screen. After experiencing this it will be difficult to ever consider a non-AT screen.


----------



## akgolf

LumenChip said:


> I also bought the Elunevision AT screen. There is more to this setup than simply placing speakers behind the screen. The greatest benefit involves careful speaker selections, pair it with speakers that have above-average imaging and you will be greatly rewarded. With my setup it feels as if the sounds are being created where the action is on screen. After experiencing this it will be difficult to ever consider a non-AT screen.


Thanks for the info. 

Not a DIY person. I'm having a dealer install the entire setup in our new house. Had concerns about vibration and image on an AT screen, I haven't been able to see a demo of one yet with an AT screen. 

I was able to see the 5040UB in a theater about the size of ours and was able to sit pretty close. I believe they had a 150 inch screen and it looked really nice. Unfortunately they weren't able to demo it with a 4K source, so still not sure how much better that will look. 

Will probably get the 5040UB unless a really nice 4K projector comes out before the theater gets built in about eight months. I'll have him install a Dolby Atmos system and will install as large a screen that I can get away with in the 11.5 X 18 foot room.


----------



## Ryedhel

crosswire said:


> does the BT.2020 HDR2 work only for uhd 4k movies with HDR on them?


Only for 4k UHD as far as I know. When I play a 1080p blu-ray I get:
8 bit 4:4:4
BT709 SDR


----------



## Ryedhel

akgolf said:


> I noticed you have an acoustic transparent screen, so I assume you have the speakers behind the screen. I was also considering going that route and wondering how you like it.


Yes I love the AT screen. Only my centre speaker is behind it though. I didn't want all three speakers that close together. Nothing beats three identical vertically orientated speakers for your LCR's. My previous theatre room had a standard 100" screen with two tower speakers and the horizontal centre speaker. My new setup is much better. I love that the sound appears as though it's coming from the actual people on the screen. The dispersion seems much better as well.


----------



## akgolf

Ryedhel said:


> Yes I love the AT screen. Only my centre speaker is behind it though. I didn't want all three speakers that close together. Nothing beats three identical vertically orientated speakers for your LCR's. My previous theatre room had a standard 100" screen with two tower speakers and the horizontal centre speaker. My new setup is much better. I love that the sound appears as though it's coming from the actual people on the screen. The dispersion seems much better as well.


Thanks for the info. 

Looks I need to decide which AT screen now. 

My installer included a 120 inch Dragonfly in the quote, but I think I can get up to 150 inch in the room. 

Anyone using Dragonfly screens? I haven't checked with the installer to see what other brands he offers yet.


----------



## Stecchino

akgolf said:


> Will probably get the 5040UB unless a really nice 4K projector comes out before the theater gets built in about eight months. I'll have him install a Dolby Atmos system and will install as large a screen that I can get away with in the 11.5 X 18 foot room.


If you're still 8 months out from a purchase , in addition to the 5040UB keep an eye on the the new Optoma 4K projector announced at CES this month. I'm loving this Epson as I did my last but just FYI.


----------



## Stecchino

I really wish that AVS would create sub forums for popular component brands. One gigantic owners thread is extremely helpful...but also clunky. Searching in the thread is sometimes limited depending on what you're seeking.


----------



## akgolf

Stecchino said:


> If you're still 8 months out from a purchase , in addition to the 5040UB keep an eye on the the new Optoma 4K projector announced at CES this month. I'm loving this Epson as I did my last but just FYI.


I did see that and if it gets good reviews, that could be the one.


----------



## crosswire

Jonathan Schwabe said:


> Ok. What version do you have. I got 5.0 (24.28.401.110)


i have the original and was updated to 5.0.2

https://9to5google.com/2017/01/26/s...lling-out-to-original-nvidia-shield-tv-units/


----------



## panman40

Smarty-pants said:


> If you want the most accurate cinema/ISF-like calibrated picture, leave Super White ON.
> You can calibrate with it off, but you contrast will be lowered in exchange for a brighter image.
> I know that sounds contradictory, but kinda how it works.
> There are more than one color mode in projector though, so you could try calibrating DIGITAL CINEMA with Super White on,
> then calibrate CINEMA with Super White off and see the differences.
> ...or just calibrate both ways with Digital Cinema and save 2 different memory modes.


Hi, thanks for this, I do prefer an accurate image where possible, super white On is reminiscent of my previous Sony hw65es,.

I noticed that with super white off I need to reduce contrast to 35-40 ( by eye so far) as its pretty bright even with the manual Iris at -10.
Do you have picture mode NATURAL on the USA version ?, that's what I have been using as it looks closet to D65, I'm only attempting rec709 for the moment as I'm on V2 of ChromaPure and don't have the 2020 test patterns yet. I think cinema drops in the P3 filter, I don't think I need that for rec709 ?.

Thanks.


----------



## ht guy

carp said:


> I'm curious if anyone else has had this issue:
> 
> Twice in the past couple weeks when I turn on the projector the picture is out of focus, and changing the focus does nothing. Also there is a blue line that runs vertically right down the middle of the screen.
> 
> When this happens all I can do is turn it off and turn it back on. When it is turned back on it sounds like a jet engine is getting ready to take off in my room. After 10 seconds or so the fan calms down and the picture comes on and all is fine.
> 
> I'm taking it back today to Nebraska Furniture Mart. I bought it the first week in December but they had a holiday return policy in place that says you have until the end of December to return anything.


The focus issue / blue line sounds concerning, as I've not had that happen. I'd consider an exchange.

The jet engine fan sound is normal if you turn the pj off and back on again. You'll notice that there seems to be no fan whenever you turn it off. Don't know how Epson is cooling the bulb, but have definitely noticed that if you turn the pj right back on, the fan fires up big time. That is normal behavior.


----------



## Jonathan Schwabe

crosswire said:


> i have the original and was updated to 5.0.2
> 
> https://9to5google.com/2017/01/26/s...lling-out-to-original-nvidia-shield-tv-units/


Got it to work.


----------



## eshabtai

Jonathan Schwabe said:


> Got it to work.


Did you get HDR on Netflix?


----------



## Jonathan Schwabe

Yes it's working with hdr.


----------



## rtv

crosswire said:


> the shield just got a massive update today.


Very nice! The ShieldTV now uses BT2020 whenever possible (even with 8bit connections). 
I usually go with 1080p + refreshrate switching + FI (on slow or animated films) and get BT2020 12 Bit HDR with Netflix there as well! 

Calibrated to 16fL with IRIS -16 on Natural+Eco I just need to open up the Iris and get decent brightness even with HDR2 on 110".

Nice update


----------



## dholmes54

I just received a Phillips bdp 7501uhd player,didn't want to spend hundreds of $$$ on a UHF player,my question is I have to connect my HDMI cable to the 4k 60p input on the 6040 and output the HDMI on my Yamaha 2050 from the 4k output correct? Also can I still use a std blue ray player through the 4k input on the Epson?


----------



## Smarty-pants

panman40 said:


> Hi, thanks for this, I do prefer an accurate image where possible, super white On is reminiscent of my previous Sony hw65es,.
> 
> I noticed that with super white off I need to reduce contrast to 35-40 ( by eye so far) as its pretty bright even with the manual Iris at -10.
> Do you have picture mode NATURAL on the USA version ?, that's what I have been using as it looks closet to D65, I'm only attempting rec709 for the moment as I'm on V2 of ChromaPure and don't have the 2020 test patterns yet. I think cinema drops in the P3 filter, I don't think I need that for rec709 ?.
> 
> Thanks.


Yes the settings/features of the US models should be identical to your model.
Correct that the CINEMA and DIGITAL CINEMA use the P3 filter for BT2020, so if you aren't viewing BT2020 content,
then you don't really need to use the Cinema color modes. NATURAL is a good candidate for REC709 calibration.


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

Just got my 5040ub calibrated by Chad B. Lots of improvements on my projector. It was pretty far off on all modes. 

Cal Night uses Natural mode and is perfect rec709 on my 120" screen and pushing 18fl. 

Cal Day uses Natural as well with a medium lamp mode and a higher gamma. I'm getting 30fl and accurate colors!

I view a lot with the windows open, so I have a cal bright mode that uses dynamic. Not perfect on the colors with some green push on the high end and uses a different gamma to bring out the mid tones. It's calibrated at 48fl and is so bright!

HDR calibration was done. Evened all the colors out and saved more of the image, but the projector just isn't powerful enough for hdr. Max output for HDR was 60 nits, but we calibrated it as best as possible to show as much image as possible.

Got 3D calibrated too, still need to check how much light and stuff it's pushing.


----------



## njbrodeur87

Hey everyone. I have been doing alot of reading on here and will be pulling the plug on this projector. i had some general questions and my setup as well. Please let me know the below all works out and makes sense.

Basic questions first:
coming from a 5030ub is it a very easy difference going from that to this one in regards to picture in 1080p, what about using 4k?
Will 3d glasses i had from 5030 work on this 5040?

Setup: Please let me know if below will all work and/or if i should change something for something better

Buying a Denon X3300 Reciever ( has all inputs with 2.2 hdcp and 4k60 )
Epson 5040ub projector of course

Xbox one S - since it cannot do hdr for 4k bluerays or netflix etc , so this will be used as just 4k with playing games and watch youtube in 4k
PS4 Pro - also cannot do hdr, so this will be the 4k GAMING machine with no hdr as well.
Samsung K8500 - buying this to play all 4k bluerays on here since this supports HDR. Also will watch netflix in 4k HDR on here since it supports HDR 
Direct TV 4K - got this already installed and can watch the view channels they have in $K and any on demand stuff.

Seeing above, are all my writings correct? anything i should change or should everything work as i described?


----------



## Stecchino

@njbrodeur87

I think you mean pulling the trigger. Pulling the plug in my mind means you are going to get rid of your unit. 

The 3D glasses that came with the 5030 will work.


----------



## njbrodeur87

opps yes lol i meant pulling the trigger


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

Here are all my calibration documents. These show the before and after calibration data. All before picture settings were adjusted with Spears and Munsil. There is such a major difference in image quality.

I will NOT post settings. For one its outta respect for the work Chad did, and two, my projector was calibrated vastly different than the other 3 5040s he had done, just going to show using other peoples numbers will almost guaranteed not work. However if you have any questions, be sure to ask. https://files.acrobat.com/a/preview/93daf461-d0bc-4933-9551-84d50252b259


----------



## Flawe

Could someone that managed to get HDR working with the Shield explain how they did it? I get 4k BT2020 4:2:2 signals but they're always SDR.


----------



## Evan201

Definitely interested in the shield tutorial as well.


----------



## SALadder22FF

I've been using wireless hdmi and am gonna run a 35' hdmi as I was told there was possibility of picture quality loss with 50' and above. The highest I've ever seen is my blu ray output at 12 bit 422. Do I need a cable capable of 18gbs to handle this or will a 10gbs work?


----------



## ht guy

ht guy said:


> Hey ELmO, I said I'd report back and here I am (for the two of us who are interested in using an Anamorphic lens with the 5040.)
> 
> First, can't imagine being much happier with the image quality. As suspected, the difference with my 9 y/o Panny AE2000 and the 5040 is HUGE!
> 
> After checking with Panamporph, I learned that the current lens/transport mounting plate doesn't have a way to mount for the older motor transport, so my installed would have to drill the old plate to work with the 5040.
> 
> I was a bit concerned, but it really came off without a hitch. The BD203 throws on the vertical stretch and the lens does the rest.
> 
> And it looks freakin' great!!
> 
> While I'm not a pixel peeper, I am planning on doing some comparisons of zoom vs. lens. But unless the zoom method kills using the lens, I'm sure I'll stick with the lens.


..and an update. I ultimately decided I needed the vertical stretch for all 3 input (Apple TV, Shield TV and BD205,) so I returned the 5040 and bit the bullet on a 6040.

I'm very happy with the result. Picture is the same (freakin' amazing!) but now all inputs are separate and no need to switch between input and disk on the BD205 to get vertical stretch.


----------



## ht guy

SALadder22FF said:


> I've been using wireless hdmi and am gonna run a 35' hdmi as I was told there was possibility of picture quality loss with 50' and above. The highest I've ever seen is my blu ray output at 12 bit 422. Do I need a cable capable of 18gbs to handle this or will a 10gbs work?


According to my installer, there are no 18gbs cables longer than ~10'.

My run is 50'. No idea what he used, but 4k works great and the picture is exceptional.


----------



## TheGizzard

Evan201 said:


> Definitely interested in the shield tutorial as well.


From what I read you just need to lock the output to 24p. And you can then use 4K HDR. 


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Flawe

TheGizzard said:


> From what I read you just need to lock the output to 24p. And you can then use 4K HDR.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


When I do this, and play a UHD title on Netflix, the Info screen shows a signal that's [email protected], 12 bit BT2020 4:2:2 but still SDR. I never get any of the HDR modes. And this is supposed to be one of the signals that' supported by the projector (even though the signal is trimmed to 10bit).


----------



## panman40

Had a couple of hrs calibrating this morning and this verified my initial thoughts from the general viewing I have done this week.

Black floor level is not as good as the Sony hw65es, it measures 0.006ftl and with peak white set to 18ftl gives a contrast ratio of just 3300:1. The Sony has 0.003ftl black resulting in 5800:1 contrast ( calibrated).

Set the Iris to auto and this basically gives a contrast ratio Infinity so I will have to see if I can hear it working during content and hopefully use it.

The projector is very bright, even superwhite on which looses 4ftl still gives a peak output of 18ftl measured off my 106" 1.0 gain white screen, that's with contrast default 50, manual Iris -12. 

I'm thinking if the auto Iris annoys me in content I'm going to try and fit a nd2 filter somehow which should lower the black floor.

Greyscale in natural mode came up well in Natural mode, colours (rec709) calibrated perfectly, gamma measures approximately 2.2 from 10% ire up to a steady 2.3 until 70% ire then almost 2.4 so pretty decent


----------



## brianlvi3

Just UGH!! I have the Epson 5040, Oppo 203 and the Marantz 7702mkii. I have no choice but to run an approx. 30 foot cable due to my room layout. I have been using PJ's for 20 years. My first was a Sharpvision LCD hah. Anyway my current set up has been nothing but problems due to my HDMI run. I have used Cat cable with Key Digital, Audioquest HDMI's and Celerity fiber optic cables. My last cable was a Monoprice active HDMI.

With my new set up I just keep loosing the signal on everything, Optimum box, Oppo, Xbox, PS4. I finally tried the Celerity 35 foot fiber optic cable. It worked for a solid week with everything including 4K movies. I ran it through my ceiling, worked great for 3 weeks. Last night I put on Da vinci Code 4K, the signal kept dropping out. 20-30 times during the entire movie. Than I tried TV watching, same thing. 

How can it work for almost a month and now problems. Maybe I turned it on in a different order...I am going to do more troubleshooting later on tonight. I have about had it. I hate to say that this might be it for me. Looking at the biggest TV's money can by right now. I hate to give my PJ hobby but I have about had it.

I purchased the wireless Epson, the UBE. I can't even get that to work. With the PJ and receiver only 8 feet apart, it will just drop out the signal. No idea why. It will not even recognize my cable box. It says no signal but transmitter located. It will run Oppo, Xbox, PS4 (with some drop outs) but will not bring up a picture using the wireless. I am just ready to throw in the towel, just UGH...


----------



## madermat

is there a way to hook the projector to just the dvd player and see if it is stable,this way you can eliminate the receiver being a prob? I do not have the Epson 5040 my sony 45 has a 50ft cable working no prob I know not as much data as a 4k projector


----------



## panman40

Just watched the first movie on the 9300w, half way through it decides to part company with the image and the fan noise becomes very loud along with the lamp led flashing, after a minute fan stops so I power cycle the reboot to finish the film, is this common. ?.


----------



## Evan201

Just brought home the Nvidia Shield TV 2017. Fixed the output to 4k/24p 
I updated the Netflix app and I'm a subscriber of their 4k plan. 
I also have Amazon Prime video which should offer 4k titles. 
I'm not seeing any offerings on either app for UHD titles in the headlines. 
I am getting 3840x2160 and BT2020 4:2:2 passed to the projector though. SDR is listed not HDR.

I have a monoprice 4x1 switch that everything is running through and thought maybe that was the culprit so I ran the Shield TV direct to the projector HDMI 2.2 input with my 50' cable and still didn't see any UHD titles listed on those streaming apps. 
I'm running the latest up to date firmware on the PJ as well. 

Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong and how to see those UHD titles listed on Netflix and Amazon?


----------



## bluer101

panman40 said:


> Just watched the first movie on the 9300w, half way through it decides to part company with the image and the fan noise becomes very loud along with the lamp led flashing, after a minute fan stops so I power cycle the reboot to finish the film, is this common. ?.


I don't think that's common at all.


----------



## crosswire

Anyone use amazon echo dot etc to the 5040ub to control turning off and on the system? If not how would one go about doing it. Is the 50407! Wifi compatible as I see a setting for it in network
Thanks


----------



## KanosWRX

ht guy said:


> According to my installer, there are no 18gbs cables longer than ~10'.
> 
> My run is 50'. No idea what he used, but 4k works great and the picture is exceptional.


Well here is a 20 ft.

https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=15431

Also I think you can get at least 25 ft here, maybe longer,

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Not sure why your installer would think you can't go over 10 ft.. that is pretty short even for 18gbps


----------



## Evan201

Im losing audio when locking the Nvidia Shield TV 2017 to 4k/24p. Running the shield through a 4x1 monoprice switch optical cable to my sound bar. Seems to mess up when switching from 2ch to 5.1ch on the switch also. Screen goes green. 
Can't get any sound to play unless its set to 1080p/50hz which is recommended. This sucks. 

What's the word here?


----------



## aaranddeeman

panman40 said:


> Had a couple of hrs calibrating this morning and this verified my initial thoughts from the general viewing I have done this week.
> 
> Black floor level is not as good as the Sony hw65es, it measures 0.006ftl and with peak white set to 18ftl gives a contrast ratio of just 3300:1. The Sony has 0.003ftl black resulting in 5800:1 contrast ( calibrated).
> 
> Set the Iris to auto and this basically gives a contrast ratio Infinity so I will have to see if I can hear it working during content and hopefully use it.
> 
> The projector is very bright, even superwhite on which looses 4ftl still gives a peak output of 18ftl measured off my 106" 1.0 gain white screen, that's with contrast default 50, manual Iris -12.
> 
> I'm thinking if the auto Iris annoys me in content I'm going to try and fit a nd2 filter somehow which should lower the black floor.
> 
> Greyscale in natural mode came up well in Natural mode, colours (rec709) calibrated perfectly, gamma measures approximately 2.2 from 10% ire up to a steady 2.3 until 70% ire then almost 2.4 so pretty decent


Have you tried using Cinema mode instead. It has WCG at the cost of lumens. These both should benifit you.
I have got CR close to 6200:1 in Cinema mode


----------



## RyanChristopher

Received and installed my second 5040UB this week. I returned my first one due to a dead pixel in the center of the image. This new one now randomly shuts off. It is not over heating it just shuts off seemingly at random. It has done it three times so far. Twice while watching Deepwater Horizon on UHD on day one and then again tonight while watching Amazon prime video on my Xbox One. Any ideas as to what might be causing this? The projector is plugged directly into the outlet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

RyanChristopher said:


> Received and installed my second 5040UB this week. I returned my first one due to a dead pixel in the center of the image. This new one no randomly shuts off. It is not over heating it just shuts off seemingly at random. It has done it free time so far. Twice while watching Deepwater Horizon on UHD on day one and then again tonight white watching Amazon prime video on my Xbox One. Any ideas as to what might be causing this. The projector is plugged directly into the outlet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wow, that stinks. 

I still have not exchanged mine yet. I called Epson today and after 20 minutes on the phone I was told the department that will help troubleshoot is not open on weekends. So now I need to call back again on Monday. I'm wondering if I should just return it and wait for something else down the road.


----------



## cydnix

Evan201 said:


> Just brought home the Nvidia Shield TV 2017. Fixed the output to 4k/24p
> I updated the Netflix app and I'm a subscriber of their 4k plan.
> I also have Amazon Prime video which should offer 4k titles.
> I'm not seeing any offerings on either app for UHD titles in the headlines.
> I am getting 3840x2160 and BT2020 4:2:2 passed to the projector though. SDR is listed not HDR.
> 
> I have a monoprice 4x1 switch that everything is running through and thought maybe that was the culprit so I ran the Shield TV direct to the projector HDMI 2.2 input with my 50' cable and still didn't see any UHD titles listed on those streaming apps.
> I'm running the latest up to date firmware on the PJ as well.
> 
> Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong and how to see those UHD titles listed on Netflix and Amazon?


When you're playing something with HDR on Amazon give it a little time for HDR to actually kick in and it should be fine. It should start off as HD then Ultra HD then Ultra HD + HDR. If you press down while playing the Amazon play menu will tell you and then you can confirm through the projector. Netflix I am having issues even getting UHD so can't help you there.


----------



## siuengr

brianlvi3 said:


> Just UGH!! I have the Epson 5040, Oppo 203 and the Marantz 7702mkii. I have no choice but to run an approx. 30 foot cable due to my room layout. I have been using PJ's for 20 years. My first was a Sharpvision LCD hah. Anyway my current set up has been nothing but problems due to my HDMI run. I have used Cat cable with Key Digital, Audioquest HDMI's and Celerity fiber optic cables. My last cable was a Monoprice active HDMI.
> 
> With my new set up I just keep loosing the signal on everything, Optimum box, Oppo, Xbox, PS4. I finally tried the Celerity 35 foot fiber optic cable. It worked for a solid week with everything including 4K movies. I ran it through my ceiling, worked great for 3 weeks. Last night I put on Da vinci Code 4K, the signal kept dropping out. 20-30 times during the entire movie. Than I tried TV watching, same thing.
> 
> How can it work for almost a month and now problems. Maybe I turned it on in a different order...I am going to do more troubleshooting later on tonight. I have about had it. I hate to say that this might be it for me. Looking at the biggest TV's money can by right now. I hate to give my PJ hobby but I have about had it.
> 
> I purchased the wireless Epson, the UBE. I can't even get that to work. With the PJ and receiver only 8 feet apart, it will just drop out the signal. No idea why. It will not even recognize my cable box. It says no signal but transmitter located. It will run Oppo, Xbox, PS4 (with some drop outs) but will not bring up a picture using the wireless. I am just ready to throw in the towel, just UGH...


I have the 5040, Oppo 203, and Marantz 7010. I am using a Blue Jean cable Series-1 30 ft cable, and I haven't had any sync issues it the two month I've been using it. I also have a Roku, Xbox, and HTPC all running 4K.


----------



## db999md

crosswire said:


> Anyone use amazon echo dot etc to the 5040ub to control turning off and on the system? If not how would one go about doing it. Is the 50407! Wifi compatible as I see a setting for it in network
> Thanks


The epson app will control the projector via wifi. However, I am not sure if this projector accepts remote commands via wifi in a manner that would let you control it with something like anymote.

This procedure is not hard and described elsewhere on the internet. Here is a brief way to get alexa to control remotes using an android device with IR blaster.

1. download and configure Anymote plus (costs like $5) - this will control many devices via wifi - for me worked with denon receiver, tivo, roku; others can be configured for IR operation but you need an android device with ir blaster (I am using an old LG G2 I had laying around)

2. add the "anymote skill" to alexa using the alexa app.

3. continue configuring. You can voice control macros in anymote+, so you can say "alexa, tell anymote to movie" and have a macro named movie that turn on the projector and sets to blu ray.

You can get cheap tablets with ir blasters. There are some 3rd party blasters as well.

The other option is to get the logitech harmony hub which is also alexa compatible.

For me, voice control of home theatre devices is a solution looking for a problem. It is quicker for me to press a button on the MX-850 remote than think of the right thing to say. It has a place in home automation turning on lights and stuff.


----------



## Evan201

cydnix said:


> When you're playing something with HDR on Amazon give it a little time for HDR to actually kick in and it should be fine. It should start off as HD then Ultra HD then Ultra HD + HDR. If you press down while playing the Amazon play menu will tell you and then you can confirm through the projector. Netflix I am having issues even getting UHD so can't help you there.


I don't see the icon to distinguish UHD to begin with so its difficult to determine which title is offered in 4k to begin with. 

I'm beginning to think i need a better quality HDMI cable less than 50' long to work across all my options. 
I had 4k Direct TV installed today and the 4k channel kicks in for 10 seconds and then says not available and drops out with a weird message about cabling. 
My Nvidia Shield is also not working through monoprice 4x1 switch. its dropping the audio when selecting 4k/24p output. A few hurdles but all will be worked out in time i suppose. Great projector.


----------



## panman40

RyanChristopher said:


> Received and installed my second 5040UB this week. I returned my first one due to a dead pixel in the center of the image. This new one now randomly shuts off. It is not over heating it just shuts off seemingly at random. It has done it three times so far. Twice while watching Deepwater Horizon on UHD on day one and then again tonight while watching Amazon prime video on my Xbox One. Any ideas as to what might be causing this? The projector is plugged directly into the outlet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's exactly what I had yesterday, I'm hoping it's a one off but what with poor calibrated contrast ratio / black level I'm beginning to wish I stuck with my hw65 Sony.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Mounted the PJ, plenty of things still to be done in the room but might be able to squeese a moving in tonight when the sun goes down. #nocurtainsyet 









Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

bluer101 said:


> I don't think that's common at all.


I see another owner is having the same shut down. If it happens again I will be pretty dissapointed.


----------



## panman40

aaranddeeman said:


> Have you tried using Cinema mode instead. It has WCG at the cost of lumens. These both should benifit you.
> I have got CR close to 6200:1 in Cinema mode


I didn't try cinema mode as I was calibrating for rec709 not 2020 WCG, without using the auto Iris the lowest black floor the projector can do is 0.006ftl, this is the culprit for the low CR. 

So have you calibrated cinema mode ( p3filter) to rec709 and achieved better black level ?. What calibration software are you using ?.
Thanks for your reply and suggestions, much appreciated.


----------



## k3nnis

hatlesschimp said:


> Mounted the PJ, plenty of things still to be done in the room but might be able to squeese a moving in tonight when the sun goes down. #nocurtainsyet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk




Nice. Do you mind showing your entire HT room? Want to see where the doors, windows etc are located.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

panman40 said:


> I didn't try cinema mode as I was calibrating for rec709 not 2020 WCG, without using the auto Iris the lowest black floor the projector can do is 0.006ftl, this is the culprit for the low CR.
> 
> So have you calibrated cinema mode ( p3filter) to rec709 and achieved better black level ?. What calibration software are you using ?.
> Thanks for your reply and suggestions, much appreciated.


Cinema mode will calibrate to DCI-P3, not Rec.709
I use HCFR
Also I did get the black floor Y=0.006 (It's not ftL).
When you set the lens iris to -10 it drops to around 0.004 - 0.003 (IIRC).


----------



## hatlesschimp

k3nnis said:


> Nice. Do you mind showing your entire HT room? Want to see where the doors, windows etc are located.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk












Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks. What will you put for the windows? Plantation shutters? Blinds? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

aaranddeeman said:


> Cinema mode will calibrate to DCI-P3, not Rec.709
> I use HCFR
> Also I did get the black floor Y=0.006 (It's not ftL).
> When you set the lens iris to -10 it drops to around 0.004 - 0.003 (IIRC).


Thanks, i did think that that's why I asked just to make sure, it's rec 709 I'm calibrating for at the moment hence using Natural which is the most accurate to start off with. 

On my ChromaPure software it is FTL, it's my preference over cdm.

I used manual Iris at -12 which gave 0.006, it did not seem to make any difference at min -20 either. 

I'm ising an i1D3 X rite, which meter are you using ?.


----------



## hatlesschimp

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. What will you put for the windows? Plantation shutters? Blinds?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Blinds to start with then once I sort out the vents in amd out of the room that im not happy with then I will board it up and do some sound treatment over it.

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

hatlesschimp said:


> Blinds to start with then once I sort out the vents in amd out of the room that im not happy with then I will board it up and do some sound treatment over it.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk




Oh ok thx. Did you use a project home builder or custom? I'm also building a home but with a project home builder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NoTechi

Flawe said:


> When I do this, and play a UHD title on Netflix, the Info screen shows a signal that's [email protected], 12 bit BT2020 4:2:2 but still SDR. I never get any of the HDR modes. And this is supposed to be one of the signals that' supported by the projector (even though the signal is trimmed to 10bit).


I just got a new shield as well and having the same results. No HDR for Netflix/Amazon. Could someone with a Shield make a screenshot of the HDR output from Netflix or Amazon and let us know the settings next to restricting the shield to 24Hz.

NoTechi


----------



## hatlesschimp

k3nnis said:


> Oh ok thx. Did you use a project home builder or custom? I'm also building a home but with a project home builder.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah went with a semi volume builder but was able to modify it easy.


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sherr127

Anyone here using oppo 203 with 5040 can share the settings?

For 1080p i'm using neutral which seems the best but when i play uhd 4k its darker and the colors a bit flat,maybe there are different settings for 4k?


----------



## bluer101

panman40 said:


> I see another owner is having the same shut down. If it happens again I will be pretty dissapointed.


I didn't see the other post, like you I hope it dies not start to happen.


----------



## lemme

*random shutoffs*

FYI if people are experiencing the Epson 4040 or 6040 randomly turning off there is currently an issue with apple TVs. Try disabling your apple TV sleep mode. This should make the behavior disappear. I have had this issue with a customer already. 

In parallel be sure to check the status lights on the side of the projector when it does turn off to make sure it still had power and did not have an error lights lit. But in my experience it has been apple TV issues. If you call Epson tech support they should say the same thing


----------



## Barry7767

Try setting Shied to 60hz or 59.9hz. Restart Shield. After it has booted, load Netflix and verify UHD 4K titles are visible. Then go back to settings and switch to 24hz. Go back to Netflix, search for 'HDR' in search window. It should say HDR next to Daredevil for example. 

I had UHD 4k titles disappear and it seemed to be following a reboot of the Shield in 24hz mode, Netflix app didn't like it. A reboot in 60hz solved it for me. Changing it to 24hz was fine as long as Shield remains in standby, but any reboot would lose the 4K titles again. 

You may also need to set HDR on within the advanced signal (I think) setting on the Epson.


----------



## brianlvi3

siuengr said:


> I have the 5040, Oppo 203, and Marantz 7010. I am using a Blue Jean cable Series-1 30 ft cable, and I haven't had any sync issues it the two month I've been using it. I also have a Roku, Xbox, and HTPC all running 4K.


The only difference is the 7010 that you have to my 7702. Years ago I used a Blue Jean Cable on one of my old PJ's. Can you message me all your settings for all 3 pieces that you are using? I know a lot to ask so if you don't have the time it is all good. Thanks again.


----------



## brianlvi3

sherr127 said:


> Anyone here using oppo 203 with 5040 can share the settings?
> 
> For 1080p i'm using neutral which seems the best but when i play uhd 4k its darker and the colors a bit flat,maybe there are different settings for 4k?


I would love to see some Marantz 7702, Oppo 203 and Epson 5040 settings to start with.


----------



## siuengr

brianlvi3 said:


> The only difference is the 7010 that you have to my 7702. Years ago I used a Blue Jean Cable on one of my old PJ's. Can you message me all your settings for all 3 pieces that you are using? I know a lot to ask so if you don't have the time it is all good. Thanks again.


Here are the settings I have fr everything. Let me know if there are any other specific settings you want to see.

Oppo 203









Marantz 7010









Epson 5040









SDR Settings


----------



## brianlvi3

siuengr said:


> Here are the settings I have fr everything. Let me know if there are any other specific settings you want to see.
> 
> Oppo 203
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marantz 7010
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson 5040
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SDR Settings


Thanks so much. I am heading down to play around. I can tell you that I am using different settings. I will let you know.

Thanks!!


----------



## eshabtai

Barry7767 said:


> Try setting Shied to 60hz or 59.9hz. Restart Shield. After it has booted, load Netflix and verify UHD 4K titles are visible. Then go back to settings and switch to 24hz. Go back to Netflix, search for 'HDR' in search window. It should say HDR next to Daredevil for example.
> 
> I had UHD 4k titles disappear and it seemed to be following a reboot of the Shield in 24hz mode, Netflix app didn't like it. A reboot in 60hz solved it for me. Changing it to 24hz was fine as long as Shield remains in standby, but any reboot would lose the 4K titles again.
> 
> You may also need to set HDR on within the advanced signal (I think) setting on the Epson.


Works for me as well. I had to update the Netflix app. Before the update it did not play in HDR, but it seems the update fixed it for me. I can now stream both Netflix and Amazon in 4k HDR (though in Netflix there is no indication of the 4K quality so it's hard to verify that - though from looking at the bandwidth it seems comparable to Amazon in 4K).


----------



## Evan201

Are you guys running the Shield directly into the PJ or through a switch? What length is your cable and what brand?


----------



## welldun

two quick questions for the Nvidia Shield owners or anyone who can answer the questions...

Currently I have the Chromecast Ultra which is the new 4k HDR version. Unfortunately the unit only plays at 60fps which doesn't allow for the HDR to be used on the Epson 5040ub, since the projector requires a 24fps signal for HDR. From what I've read, the Nvidia Shield will convert the 60fps signal down to 24fps. For that reason, I am considering replacing the Chromecast Ultra with the Nvidia Shield, but before I do, I have a few questions for you folks. 

1. Is there any noticeable loss of quality when you scale down to 24fps from the 60pfs?

2. Is there a 4k Blu-ray player that would make the Nvidia Shield obsolete/redundant at this point or in the near future?

I'm limited in space on my equipment rack, so I would prefer to get one device (if possible) that would allow for the 5040ub to get the best quality signal and also make use of the HDR...


----------



## Evan201

Shield Plugged Into Monoprice 4x1 Switch - Audio stripped via optical cable to sound bar. Drops audio always and video sometimes when switching to 4k/24 and I don't receive all the 4k output options, so unusable configuration. 
post a picture

Shield Plugged In Direct To The 5040ub via 50' cable. No sound with this option because of monoprice switch limitation for sound. With going direct I do receive the proper video functions and can watch UHD content after a reboot in 4k/50 then switching to 4k/24 (should I ditch the monoprice switch running HDMI sound to my sound bar for something different If direct to PJ is the only option for UHD viewing? Anyone have any recommendations for equipment for my configuration?)
image uploader

Info settings from Shield direct into PJ - No sound. 
images hosting


----------



## Evan201

I think i figured it out. My monoprice switch is not compatible with 4k and will have issues. I need a new AV receiver that supports HDCP 2.2 and 4k. 

Any suggestions on a receiver with at least 4 ins and two being HDCP 2.2 compliant? 

Will I need a receiver that can lock 4k/24hz for it to play nice with the Nvidia Shield when locking that at 4k/24p?


----------



## Barry7767

Evan201 said:


> I think i figured it out. My monoprice switch is not compatible with 4k and will have issues. I need a new AV receiver that supports HDCP 2.2 and 4k.
> 
> Any suggestions on a receiver with at least 4 ins and two being HDCP 2.2 compliant?
> 
> Will I need a receiver that can lock 4k/24hz for it to play nice with the Nvidia Shield when locking that at 4k/24p?


Sounds like that's your issue. I run HDMI direct from Shield to PJ as my receiver isn't 2.2 either. For audio I bought a USB to Optical converter, which connects to the optical input on my receiver. Not quite as good quality as the Dolby Digital + of Netflix, but not bad. 

Will be replacing receiver soon. Given how quickly standards are changing I'm looking at the Marantz 6011 (and hopefully a power amp) rather than the 7011 as no doubt it will need changing again soon.


----------



## thevenom

Hello everyone,
Going to be creating a home theater in my garage (20x16), no windows.
Is this the best option I can get for under 3k still? or is there something better?
Also what would be a good screen to pair it up with? 120"? 20' distance from the wall the screen will be placed on.

Thanks in advance and sorry if I sound newbish


----------



## Evan201

Barry7767 said:


> Sounds like that's your issue. I run HDMI direct from Shield to PJ as my receiver isn't 2.2 either. For audio I bought a USB to Optical converter, which connects to the optical input on my receiver. Not quite as good quality as the Dolby Digital + of Netflix, but not bad.
> 
> Will be replacing receiver soon. Given how quickly standards are changing I'm looking at the Marantz 6011 (and hopefully a power amp) rather than the 7011 as no doubt it will need changing again soon.


How about the Denon AVR-S510BT for me configuration? Will it work?


----------



## imapfsr

panman40 said:


> I see another owner is having the same shut down. If it happens again I will be pretty dissapointed.


Epson is sending me my 5th 5040UB, 2 had the flashing blue and orange light which is supposed to mean a bulb issue (which they sent a new bulb but that did not fix the issue) and two with the solid lit orange and blue for 10 seconds which is iris issue. All will not turn on after initial power up and off. Try to restart with the remote and power button but a no go. Have to unplug the projo to get it to turn on again. They offered me a refund but I declined as I have things set up with a very nice 2.35:1 screen so I need the power zoom and faux k! Epson has been great but they are now hinting that it's my fault which is nuts as I had the Epson ht2040 for over a year in the same spot same plug in etc and it was fine.


----------



## NoTechi

Barry7767 said:


> Try setting Shied to 60hz or 59.9hz. Restart Shield. After it has booted, load Netflix and verify UHD 4K titles are visible. Then go back to settings and switch to 24hz. Go back to Netflix, search for 'HDR' in search window. It should say HDR next to Daredevil for example.
> 
> I had UHD 4k titles disappear and it seemed to be following a reboot of the Shield in 24hz mode, Netflix app didn't like it. A reboot in 60hz solved it for me. Changing it to 24hz was fine as long as Shield remains in standby, but any reboot would lose the 4K titles again.
> 
> You may also need to set HDR on within the advanced signal (I think) setting on the Epson.


Thanks Barry u made my day! Updating the Netflix app and searching for hdr (not just going to the uhd list) did it 😎

NoTechi


----------



## bluer101

imapfsr said:


> Epson is sending me my 5th 5040UB, 2 had the flashing blue and orange light which is supposed to mean a bulb issue (which they sent a new bulb but that did not fix the issue) and two with the solid lit orange and blue for 10 seconds which is iris issue. All will not turn on after initial power up and off. Try to restart with the remote and power button but a no go. Have to unplug the projo to get it to turn on again. They offered me a refund but I declined as I have things set up with a very nice 2.35:1 screen so I need the power zoom and faux k! Epson has been great but they are now hinting that it's my fault which is nuts as I had the Epson ht2040 for over a year in the same spot same plug in etc and it was fine.


Holy Crap!!!!

You are making me think twice about returning my 5040 with the grind at shutdown. I don't need other issues instead.


----------



## ht guy

KanosWRX said:


> Well here is a 20 ft.
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=15431
> 
> Also I think you can get at least 25 ft here, maybe longer,
> 
> http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
> 
> Not sure why your installer would think you can't go over 10 ft.. that is pretty short even for 18gbps


hah! I almost said "My installer says...but I'm sure the experts here will refute it..."

Good to know although even at 25ft, it wouldn't have been long enough for my situation.

Thanks for the info though. I'll pass it on.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Can I get a link from someone using a 35' hdmi cable capable of 18gbps. Trying to find the best deal.


----------



## imapfsr

bluer101 said:


> Holy Crap!!!!
> 
> You are making me think twice about returning my 5040 with the grind at shutdown. I don't need other issues instead.


I wouldn't worry too much. Epson really has been great (amazing actually) and I think it may be a batch that were sent to Canada that are having the issues. None the less, if this one does the same I don't know what I'm going to do.


----------



## bluer101

imapfsr said:


> I wouldn't worry too much. Epson really has been great (amazing actually) and I think it may be a batch that were sent to Canada that are having the issues. None the less, if this one does the same I don't know what I'm going to do.


Well good luck and hope this ones good for ya. 

I have to call Epson tomorrow and see what they are going to do with mine. I would like a new one shipped to me. I will pay the deposite too. If they don't swap for a new one I still have to Feb 14 with Best Buy to return and exchange.


----------



## Striper Mark

Has anyone been successful in using the Wireless version to connect an Oppo 203 or Shield instead fo an HDMI?


----------



## bombertodd

SALadder22FF said:


> Can I get a link from someone using a 35' hdmi cable capable of 18gbps. Trying to find the best deal.


I've seen the monoprice lux cl3 cable pass 18gbps at 50 feet. Mediabridge has cables that are tested to make sure they pass.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Im up and running with the AT screen from OZTS. There is no moire on the 135" Cinemascope AT screen. The woven screen material was rotated to 15 degrees when I installed it. Works and looks great. The blinds arrive tomorrow so then I can use the room during the day lol. 









Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

Good day all,
I picked up the 2017 Nvidia Shield yesterday and under the resolution options the highest signal I had was 1080p. After 10 minutes of testing I went back into the resolution page and saw 4K as one of the options, so I selected [email protected] I watched half of a show on Amazon in HDR, then tested it out and some of the gaming. Then I realized that the picture quality dropped again, so I went into the resolution settings and noticed that 4K was not there as an option anymore. Are you guys experiencing anything like this? I thought that once we locked it in to a certain resolution it would remain there, but in my case,not only is it not staying locked in, but it's also doing away with some of the resolution options after some time.


----------



## Duddits

After reading all the horrorstories of dustblobs and degradation of panels I think I will bye a Sony HW-65 instead.


----------



## brianlvi3

siuengr said:


> Here are the settings I have fr everything. Let me know if there are any other specific settings you want to see.
> 
> Oppo 203
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marantz 7010
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson 5040
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SDR Settings


I did exact settings and still the same. Can you also show me your 4K settings on the Epson? Thanks again for your help. I see the ones for SDR. Thanks.


----------



## panman40

Duddits said:


> After reading all the horrorstories of dustblobs and degradation of panels I think I will bye a Sony HW-65 instead.


Degradation off panels.... That was supposedly an issue with Sony sxrd panels long term!. I don't think it's safe to buy anything lol.

I just got the 9300 coming from a hw65 Sony, there's a lot to like about the Epson but the black level is not as good as my Sony was.


----------



## Duddits

panman40 said:


> Degradation off panels.... That was supposedly an issue with Sony sxrd panels long term!. I don't think it's safe to buy anything lol.
> 
> I just got the 9300 coming from a hw65 Sony, there's a lot to like about the Epson but the black level is not as good as my Sony was.


What I have read here in the forum the HW65 does not have degradation of panels like som other Sony has. Here in Sweden the Sony is also cheaper than Epson.


----------



## Booker357

SALadder22FF said:


> Can I get a link from someone using a 35' hdmi cable capable of 18gbps. Trying to find the best deal.


This one seems to be working for me, so far so good. High quality
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U7SLEW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## swyda038

*Best Projector Screen to use with Epson 5040ub projector*

What is the best projector screen to use with the Epson 5040ub project in a light controlled room with no windows? Not sure whether to get a grey screen or white (what amount of gain is needed?) that will produce the best picture quality. Thanks for input


----------



## dholmes54

Do I have to use the 4k input on the epson and the 4k output on my avr to get 4k? I just hate using arc! Thxs


----------



## Smarty-pants

SALadder22FF said:


> Can I get a link from someone using a 35' hdmi cable capable of 18gbps. Trying to find the best deal.


To you and others here who are commenting about the 18 GBps cables and such...
Hopefully you all realize that there is no such thing as being able to send 18 GBps signals to the 5040UB, right?
It's chipset can not handle those signals, and IIRC it accepts a few combination like...
4K-24/25/30 @ 4444/8b and 422/12b ... 4K-60/50 @ 420/8b. All of those combos are 8.9 GBps.

So... you really only need a 10.2 GBps cable for the Epson projectors, BUT if you can get a better cable to be safe and future proof,
it's always best to get the best quality and bandwidth when you can.
However it is almost impossible to find anything longer than 25 feet that can handle the higher bandwidths.
The Monoprice active cables that boast 18 GBps aren't truthful. They may send some lower bandwidth signals @ 4K/60,
but not true 18 GBps consistently. Again though, the cables should still work fine for the Epson projectors since the Epson
projectors can't go above 10.2 GBps anyway.

The only cables I know of that will actually do 18 GBps 4K are the optical type HDMI cables from OEMs like Celerity.
Those cables are not cheap though, so you have to consider if it's worth spending that kind of money for a cable to
the Epson that really doesn't need to 18 GBps compatible.
However if you are running the cable through the ceiling and walls and it's difficult to replace later, you may want to consider
the investment to be worth it if the cable isn't easily replaceable later on when you might eventually get a true 4K projector.


----------



## Smarty-pants

dholmes54 said:


> Do I have to use the 4k input on the epson and the 4k output on my avr to get 4k? I just hate using arc! Thxs


You definitely need to use the 4K HDCP 2.2 HDMI-1 input on the Epson projector to get 4K.
Then you also need to use the same type of output on your AVR, or just send the video directly from a source
device like a UHD Blu-ray player, which I believe all of them so far have dual HDMI outputs so you can send one
of them to the display and the other ton an AVR that isn't HDCP 2.2 (4K) compatible.
However if your AVR is 4k capable, then you should probably just route everything through it.

Not quite sure what ARC has to do with it, and the Epson isn't ARC capable anyway since it's a projector that doesn't use audio.
All of your audio should be routed through your AVR, with only a video signal sent to the projector.


----------



## siuengr

brianlvi3 said:


> I did exact settings and still the same. Can you also show me your 4K settings on the Epson? Thanks again for your help. I see the ones for SDR. Thanks.


Those are the 4K SDR settings, for 4K HDR, I use Natural with the custom gamma curve as previously discussed in this thread, quoted below.



achanonier said:


> Yes that's why I wanted to share with you guys.
> The Bright cinema mode cleary exhibits that the blacks are both greyish AND muted like there is not contrast. Its gamma curve must be very weired...
> 
> Also for the second set of picture look at how the blue part of the flags stand out on the Custom curve and OLed and how it melts with the wall behind onn the Bright cinema mode...
> 
> And for the last one if you check the lower part of the image there is much more details in the houses with the custom curve too and it maintains a better black level.
> 
> 
> For the gamma values for those who wondered
> From left to right
> 
> 0
> +19
> +27
> +29
> +30
> +30
> +28
> +20
> 0





Oledurt said:


> For those wondering about HDR on this projector. These custom gamma settings should be used in Natural mode. Use HDR 1 with super white on. Set color Saturation to 55 to compensate for the gamma curve.
> 
> If you do this you will get a very good (not too dark) image with HDR.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs smarty,I've got a Yamaha 2050avr and just got a Phillips uhd player,so I need to use the 4k on my avr & Epson


----------



## siuengr

swyda038 said:


> What is the best projector screen to use with the Epson 5040ub project in a light controlled room with no windows? Not sure whether to get a grey screen or white (what amount of gain is needed?) that will produce the best picture quality. Thanks for input


I went with a Silver Ticket 120" White 1.1 gain, STR-169120. For a light controlled room, you don't need a grey screen. The screen actually measures around .98 gain, but still good enough for a light controlled room. It looks amazing, and has been rated nearly as good as screens costing 10x more.


----------



## lupoal

Duddits said:


> After reading all the horrorstories of dustblobs and degradation of panels I think I will bye a Sony HW-65 instead.


talking about horror stories nobody can compete with Sony and the marvelous SXRD panel degradation... with C.R. falling down in few hundreds hours below 1500:1... dustblob are nothing in comparison

search for the proper discussion about that and enjoy


----------



## lupoal

Duddits said:


> What I have read here in the forum the HW65 does not have degradation of panels like som other Sony has. Here in Sweden the Sony is also cheaper than Epson.


come on ... and u trust it? nobody explained what was the problem in background... do you really believe they solved it? why?


----------



## panman40

Duddits said:


> What I have read here in the forum the HW65 does not have degradation of panels like som other Sony has. Here in Sweden the Sony is also cheaper than Epson.


Basically all hear say from what I read when I followed that thread for a while.


----------



## Bejoy

SALadder22FF said:


> Can I get a link from someone using a 35' hdmi cable capable of 18gbps. Trying to find the best deal.


I am using a 35 foot cable from Monoprice that does 18gbps. 
My run = UB900 Panasonic to Marantz 7010 to Epson. Marantz to Epson is the 35 foot cable. No issues for 4K and no issues for HDR..

They (monoprice) certify 18gbps for a length up to 50 feet on this cable. I got mine for $19.99 a few weeks ago. the price ranges from $19.99 - 31.89 depending on the specials they are running. I highly recommend this cable:

https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=12736


----------



## Bejoy

Smarty-pants said:


> To you and others here who are commenting about the 18 GBps cables and such...
> Hopefully you all realize that there is no such thing as being able to send 18 GBps signals to the 5040UB, right?
> It's chipset can not handle those signals, and IIRC it accepts a few combination like...
> 4K-24/25/30 @ 4444/8b and 422/12b ... 4K-60/50 @ 420/8b. All of those combos are 8.9 GBps.
> 
> So... you really only need a 10.2 GBps cable for the Epson projectors, BUT if you can get a better cable to be safe and future proof,
> it's always best to get the best quality and bandwidth when you can.
> However it is almost impossible to find anything longer than 25 feet that can handle the higher bandwidths.
> The Monoprice active cables that boast 18 GBps aren't truthful. They may send some lower bandwidth signals @ 4K/60,
> but not true 18 GBps consistently. Again though, the cables should still work fine for the Epson projectors since the Epson
> projectors can't go above 10.2 GBps anyway.
> 
> The only cables I know of that will actually do 18 GBps 4K are the optical type HDMI cables from OEMs like Celerity.
> Those cables are not cheap though, so you have to consider if it's worth spending that kind of money for a cable to
> the Epson that really doesn't need to 18 GBps compatible.
> However if you are running the cable through the ceiling and walls and it's difficult to replace later, you may want to consider
> the investment to be worth it if the cable isn't easily replaceable later on when you might eventually get a true 4K projector.


My original HDMI cable (9 years old) would not work with the Epson 4k projector. The installer wanted to sell me a $500 cable. I asked them to try out the monoprice cable I bought for $20. It worked like a charm, they were impressed. You are right, the epson only needs the 10.2Gbps cable, but, i figure when I change my projector to a true 4K (when prices drop to 3K range) the higher rated cable is already there.. I also had them run a cat5 ethernet cable while they were retro fitting the HDMI so now I have wired ethernet to the epson projector as well..

I am getting 4k/HDR from my panasonic UB900. I still only get 4K (no HDR) from Netlfix and Amazon. (I have the UB900 and the Roku Premiere PLus for streaming).


----------



## john barlow

Duddits said:


> What I have read here in the forum the HW65 does not have degradation of panels like som other Sony has. Here in Sweden the Sony is also cheaper than Epson.


Just thought I'd add two cents to this. I don't think you will find another consumer electronics company as devoted to their customers and has the infrastructure for helping those customers on shore as Epson does. Just my two cents. I have no regrets. I was so happy that Epson added lens memory functions for cinemascope fans like myself. That was the only thing needed for me to jump from Panasonic, was Lens Memory. Thanks Epson.


----------



## brianlvi3

brianlvi3 said:


> I did exact settings and still the same. Can you also show me your 4K settings on the Epson? Thanks again for your help. I see the ones for SDR. Thanks.


Can i ask what settings you use for regular bluray watching and TV watching also? Thanks again.


----------



## brianlvi3

siuengr said:


> Here are the settings I have fr everything. Let me know if there are any other specific settings you want to see.
> 
> Oppo 203
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Marantz 7010
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson 5040
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SDR Settings


Can i ask what settings you use for regular bluray watching and TV watching also? Thanks again.


----------



## siuengr

brianlvi3 said:


> Can i ask what settings you use for regular bluray watching and TV watching also? Thanks again.


The same settings I use for 4K SDR in the the last image I posted, Digital Cinema, with Brightness and Contrast at 53.


----------



## brianlvi3

siuengr said:


> The same settings I use for 4K SDR in the the last image I posted, Digital Cinema, with Brightness and Contrast at 53.


Thanks again for your time and all the help!!


----------



## bluer101

Just got off the phone with Epson. Ask some basic questions just like on saturdays call. He then put me on hold to ask upper tech. After 2 minutes he comes back and asks if I disable 4K does it still make the grinding noise. I told him yes. Then he immediately says it's a hardware failure. It will qualify for warranty and get an exchange. Secure the replacement with a CC and when the replacement arrives put my faulty one in the box and return. Then I would get the hold removed from my CC. I said ok. 

Then I ask if I would get a brand new replacement and was told no it would be a refurb. I told him I have until Feb 14 to return exchange with BB and calling them first to see their options. 

I asked for a brand new unit and was told it's not possible. I explained that my unit is just over 30 days old and why would I get a refurb from them when I can just get a new unit from BB. He said I can be put on hold to see if they could do a new unit but no guarantee when it arrives. So I told him by that time I might be out of my BB return period for new exchange or money back. He seemed not to care. 

So now I'm on a fence. Should I exchange for another one or just return and try another brand? Would it be worth it to get the 6040ub? The black body, extra bulb, and 3 year warranty is tempting. What would you all do?

I'm just a little frustrated with their refurb. I had an issue with my Benq w1070 at just over a month old optical issue, and no questions ask, brand new exchange.


----------



## Rob Simkow

Personally, I'd see if you can return and purchase a fresh one at BB.


----------



## bluer101

Rob Simkow said:


> Personally, I'd see if you can return and purchase a fresh one at BB.


That's what I'm going to do. I'm within the return period.


----------



## LumenChip

akgolf said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Looks I need to decide which AT screen now.
> 
> My installer included a 120 inch Dragonfly in the quote, but I think I can get up to 150 inch in the room.
> 
> Anyone using Dragonfly screens? I haven't checked with the installer to see what other brands he offers yet.


I see you are in Canada, you can easily have the 150" EluneVision Reference AT screen at an affordable price. I went with the 150" and Epson 6040 but upgraded to the Audioweave+. It has a higher gain, more neutral white and tighter weave, but is only available through a Custom Installer.


----------



## akgolf

LumenChip said:


> I see you are in Canada, you can easily have the 150" EluneVision Reference AT screen at an affordable price. I went with the 150" and Epson 6040 but upgraded to the Audioweave+. It has a higher gain, more neutral white and tighter weave, but is only available through a Custom Installer.


Actually I live in Oklahoma now, after living in Alaska for the last 28 years. 

I'll get with my installer and see what brands of screens he deals with. See if I have other options through him. 

Did you go with the 16:9 or 2.35:1 screen on your 150 inch screen?

Also how far back is your projector from the screen? 

My room will be 18x11.5 feet, so still not sure what is practical for this room. I did see a demo of a Sony 675 in a room similar in size to mine with a 140 inch screen and it was impressive.


----------



## Glenn Rubin

crosswire said:


> Anyone use amazon echo dot etc to the 5040ub to control turning off and on the system? If not how would one go about doing it. Is the 50407! Wifi compatible as I see a setting for it in network
> Thanks


I believe this will not work directly with the projector & Echo combination but with a Harmony remote. I am using my Harmony app and voice commands to turn my system on/off as well as the projector and other commands etc.


----------



## raviatuofu

I am using Harmony Hub and Echo. Harmony Hub App on iPhone does the trick of turning my equipment on before I go into media room.

It controls Epson 5040, Denon , Apple TV and Philips Blu Ray Player.


----------



## hatlesschimp

A bit of Lucy UHD action tonight on the 9300 + Oppo UDP 203 + newly installed OzTheaterScreens 135" Cinemascope screen. 
Im very very happy with the results. Just need to finish off the front wall around the screen. I made sure to rotate the screen to 15 degrees and dont have any issue with moire.


----------



## welldun

bluer101 said:


> That's what I'm going to do. I'm within the return period.


From personal experience I too will suggest you get a new one from BB. My original 5040ub had some issues. Epson said they were going to send me a new unit. The unit that I received was loosely repackaged and came in worse shape than my original unit. I called Projector People who sold me the original, and they got on the phone with epson about it. I ended up returning the replacement back to Epson, I returned my original back to Projector People, and they sent me a New unit.


----------



## bigboar

I have a question and it may be stupid. Why doesnt epson update our firmware to where it automatically chooses hdr 1 instead of hdr 2 when a uhd disc is played?


----------



## bluer101

welldun said:


> From personal experience I too will suggest you get a new one from BB. My original 5040ub had some issues. Epson said they were going to send me a new unit. The unit that I received was loosely repackaged and came in worse shape than my original unit. I called Projector People who sold me the original, and they got on the phone with epson about it. I ended up returning the replacement back to Epson, I returned my original back to Projector People, and they sent me a New unit.


Thanks for the response. I just want a new unit and that's what I paid for. Now if down the road it needs service that is fine with warranty work. 

The crazy thing is I have been dealing with Epson support through email and then 2 phone calls over the past 2 weeks to get to this point. So in reality the claim started before 30 days were up. I was not pleased with CS from Epson and very little concern for the consumer. 

I asked the representative if he thought it was fair that they offered me a refurb with a brand new PJ when I can take it back to BB for exchange. His answer was, be has no opinion on the matter and only reads and goes by guidelines by Epson.


----------



## crosswire

raviatuofu said:


> I am using Harmony Hub and Echo. Harmony Hub App on iPhone does the trick of turning my equipment on before I go into media room.
> 
> It controls Epson 5040, Denon , Apple TV and Philips Blu Ray Player.


Ok thanks. I have the old logitech harmony remote. Sucks we have to buy a separate device to make it work. I know denon has an ios app not sure epson does nor the k8500. 
Will look for a hub in the mean time.


----------



## Ryedhel

hatlesschimp said:


> A bit of Lucy UHD action tonight on the 9300 + Oppo UDP 203 + newly installed OzTheaterScreens 135" Cinemascope screen.
> Im very very happy with the results. Just need to finish off the front wall around the screen. I made sure to rotate the screen to 15 degrees and dont have any issue with moire.


What color mode is that? HDR1 or 2?


----------



## sddp

bluer101 said:


> Just got off the phone with Epson. Ask some basic questions just like on saturdays call. He then put me on hold to ask upper tech. After 2 minutes he comes back and asks if I disable 4K does it still make the grinding noise. I told him yes. Then he immediately says it's a hardware failure. It will qualify for warranty and get an exchange. Secure the replacement with a CC and when the replacement arrives put my faulty one in the box and return. Then I would get the hold removed from my CC. I said ok.
> 
> Then I ask if I would get a brand new replacement and was told no it would be a refurb. I told him I have until Feb 14 to return exchange with BB and calling them first to see their options.
> 
> I asked for a brand new unit and was told it's not possible. I explained that my unit is just over 30 days old and why would I get a refurb from them when I can just get a new unit from BB. He said I can be put on hold to see if they could do a new unit but no guarantee when it arrives. So I told him by that time I might be out of my BB return period for new exchange or money back. He seemed not to care.
> 
> So now I'm on a fence. Should I exchange for another one or just return and try another brand? Would it be worth it to get the 6040ub? The black body, extra bulb, and 3 year warranty is tempting. What would you all do?
> 
> I'm just a little frustrated with their refurb. I had an issue with my Benq w1070 at just over a month old optical issue, and no questions ask, brand new exchange.




I know the frustrating feeling. Just an FYI refurb is not a bad thing. But worth it if it's been after a few years, not 3 weeks.
With BB, just ask for an exchange right there on the spot.
Second. Instead of shelling out the $$ for the 6040, Would be better to get BB max extended warranty. I think it's 4 years. They don't do refurb. either fix, exchange or money back.
PLUS if you use an American Express, they add an additional year, so you get 5 years. Trust me, there will be something mindblowing in 2022


Now if you return it and buy an new one again, you get 14 days unless your an elite which you'd get 45 days


----------



## sddp

crosswire said:


> Ok thanks. I have the old logitech harmony remote. Sucks we have to buy a separate device to make it work. I know denon has an ios app not sure epson does not the k8500.
> Will look for a hub in the mean time.









I have a super old harmony remote, 880 that I got on 2004'sh. It works on my Denon and Epson 5040ube


----------



## Boldlygo

*HDR Colour Not Right?*

Here's my current system: Epson 6040UB, OPPO UDP-203, Marantz AV7702 (Atmos 7.1.2), Elite Aeon Series 125" screen.

Some observations: The Marantz will pass 4K but not HDR. So I've hooked up the Epson into HDMI-1 out on the back on the OPPO and HDMI-2 goes into an input on the Marantz for audio. Since I have the Epson plugged into the OPPO, I use the Marantz to switch all my other inputs (Cable, HD-DVD, AppleTV, JRiver) and feed that into the back HDMI input of the OPPO and switch the OPPO to the back input. Works good. BTW the OPPO is by far the BEST 4K player. I've seen the Samsung, had the Philips running for a couple of days but there is no comparison.

While playing Star Trek: Beyond 4K - if I set the HDR mode on the OPPO to 'Auto', the Epson reports an SDR signal in its Info menu. Switching the OPPO to HDR changes the Epson to show HDR.

Here's what's really bothering me - I've got everything set as good as I can get on the Epson while watching 4K. I started in Dynamic mode and made all sorts of adjustments (see attached pic). Lamp is Medium. I had to set the Dynamic Range to 'HDR Mode1' of course. I've also set watching Bluray's to different settings (using Disney's WOW disc) and have these saved in a memory. But here's the problem - colour reproduction in the 4K version is NOT as good as the Bluray version of the same movie! I've gone back and forth many, many times with ST: Beyond's discs as well as Suicide Squad. For ST, I looked at the early scene when Kirk, Spock & McCoy are standing on the bridge looking at the 'snow globe in space' and the colours of their uniforms are plain, blah. But put in the BD disc, and the colours pop out. Later on same thing - when they are all getting off The Enterprise and you see a big crowd of Star Trek personnel, the colours of the BD disc are always better. This is not what 4K with HDR is supposed to be? Is it? What am I doing wrong?? And BTW, the resolution, or detail of the BD compared to the 4K is almost the same. At this point I'm preferring to watch the BD - why did I invest so much in 4K??


----------



## Jonathan Schwabe

When I feed the 5040 with a 4k signal or use the 4k enhancement on other signals, there's a different sound from the projector, that is very anorring and that goes away, when turn 4k/4k enhancement off...


----------



## BigDavesWife

I used this thread to do a lot of research before I replaced my dead JVC DLA RS2 and I am happy with my new 5040UB. I am a novice who just loves tech and home theater. I have a dedicated home theater and I am using the Stewart Firehawk screen that I originally purchased in 2010 to go with my JVC - I haven't done any calibration yet and the projector looks pretty good right out of the box. My question is whether you have to check for firmware updates from Epson or if the projector is automatically shipped with the most up to date firmware installed. I purchased from B&H Photo. May be a stupid question but I can't seem to find a straight answer just using google. Can't wait to see how the big game looks on Sunday - GO FALCONS!


----------



## crosswire

sddp said:


> I have a super old harmony remote, 880 that I got on 2004'sh. It works on my Denon and Epson 5040ube


ok will try it. I have an amazon echo so wanted to work with it. But it seems i need a harmony hub.


----------



## bluer101

sddp said:


> I know the frustrating feeling. Just an FYI refurb is not a bad thing. But worth it if it's been after a few years, not 3 weeks.
> With BB, just ask for an exchange right there on the spot.
> Second. Instead of shelling out the $$ for the 6040, Would be better to get BB max extended warranty. I think it's 4 years. They don't do refurb. either fix, exchange or money back.
> PLUS if you use an American Express, they add an additional year, so you get 5 years. Trust me, there will be something mindblowing in 2022
> 
> 
> Now if you return it and buy an new one again, you get 14 days unless your an elite which you'd get 45 days


It's going to be an exchange. They will have to order one shipped to my house. 

I can't return and rebuy as I will lose the pre Xmas sale price. 

Also I'm a elite plus so my return window is by Feb 14.


----------



## Chris the Rock

Boldlygo said:


> Here's my current system: Epson 6040UB, OPPO UDP-203, Marantz AV7702 (Atmos 7.1.2), Elite Aeon Series 125" screen.
> 
> Some observations: The Marantz will pass 4K but not HDR. So I've hooked up the Epson into HDMI-1 out on the back on the OPPO and HDMI-2 goes into an input on the Marantz for audio. Since I have the Epson plugged into the OPPO, I use the Marantz to switch all my other inputs (Cable, HD-DVD, AppleTV, JRiver) and feed that into the back HDMI input of the OPPO and switch the OPPO to the back input. Works good. BTW the OPPO is by far the BEST 4K player. I've seen the Samsung, had the Philips running for a couple of days but there is no comparison.
> 
> While playing Star Trek: Beyond 4K - if I set the HDR mode on the OPPO to 'Auto', the Epson reports an SDR signal in its Info menu. Switching the OPPO to HDR changes the Epson to show HDR.
> 
> Here's what's really bothering me - I've got everything set as good as I can get on the Epson while watching 4K. I started in Dynamic mode and made all sorts of adjustments (see attached pic). Lamp is Medium. I had to set the Dynamic Range to 'HDR Mode1' of course. I've also set watching Bluray's to different settings (using Disney's WOW disc) and have these saved in a memory. But here's the problem - colour reproduction in the 4K version is NOT as good as the Bluray version of the same movie! I've gone back and forth many, many times with ST: Beyond's discs as well as Suicide Squad. For ST, I looked at the early scene when Kirk, Spock & McCoy are standing on the bridge looking at the 'snow globe in space' and the colours of their uniforms are plain, blah. But put in the BD disc, and the colours pop out. Later on same thing - when they are all getting off The Enterprise and you see a big crowd of Star Trek personnel, the colours of the BD disc are always better. This is not what 4K with HDR is supposed to be? Is it? What am I doing wrong?? And BTW, the resolution, or detail of the BD compared to the 4K is almost the same. At this point I'm preferring to watch the BD - why did I invest so much in 4K??


I don't have answers to your questions, but I want to say hello to another member who has nearly the same setup and is encountering issues. 

I have an Oppo 203, Epson 6040 and a Marantz 7702mkii, which is supposed to pass UHD with HDR.

I have unexplainable, crazy issues with getting UHD content from the Oppo to pass through the Marantz on to the Epson. I've never gotten it to work reliably: either it will receive 3840*2160 resolution along without the HDR and BT2020 color, or it will receive 1920*1080 resolution WITH HDR and BT2020 color. Honest, I've checked everything I can think of on all the equipment. If I turn on my system, I'll get a picture with no sound. If I reboot the Marantz, I get 4K/HDR/BT2020. That is, until I switch discs and the Oppo menu shows on screen. When the new disc loads, it will only play 1920*1080, no matter what I do, the Epson still showing HDR with BT2020 color. Yeah, it's crazy. 

When I go directly from the Oppo to the Epson, it works. So clearly the Marantz, right? Not so fast: According to the Marantz (Setup>General>Information) it is receiving 1080 from the Oppo, despite being configured as "Source Direct", "UHD Auto", or "UHD 24". I can see what it's getting and what it's sending on to the projector. It's not doing anything to the video signal before it goes on to the projector. Oppo has had me send them log files, and has owned the issue as a "firmware problem", but I'm not completely convinced. 

Anyway, your description of the way you're handling the way your original 7702 doesn't pass HDR has put an idea in my head, for routing through the Oppo on its way to the projector. Thanks for describing that so well.

With all these problems, I haven't had the chance to dial in my settings, but my experiences with UHD HDR on the 6040 so far have been unsatisfactory as well. Star Trek Beyond's darker scenes (anything on board the Enterprise) was a dim, washed out mess, though the outdoor scenes looked good. However, playing 1080p HDR from the PS4 Pro (Deus Ex Mankind Divided) looks great once the in-game brightness is adjusted (and coincidentally, that's going through the Marantz and seems to work, though it isn't 4K HDR because the Epson can't do 4K60 with HDR.

I'm sure in time I'll figure out something that will work. Until then I'll continue to lurk around here until some news comes out that Epson has addressed this.


----------



## bluer101

Things get stranger. 

I took down the projector to box up. For fun I took it into a bedroom to shoot a 130-135 2.35 screen. I just placed it on a dresser and used it like table top vs ceiling. Well after playing I turned it off and no noise. So I flipped the projector over on its top like its ceiling mounted and turned it back on. Waited for it to turn fully on with blinking blue light going off. 

Guess what, hit power button and after the lens door closes I get that grind from a fan. Maybe it's just lose enough that it's rubbing on something after warmed up? But why does it make no noise while using it? I'm puzzled, what should I do.


----------



## seplant

bigboar said:


> I have a question and it may be stupid. Why doesnt epson update our firmware to where it automatically chooses hdr 1 instead of hdr 2 when a uhd disc is played?


I asked Epson a related question just this week. 

Here was my question: HDR content on the 6040UB projector appears to be very dark, even when switching to the HDR1 preset. I understand that Sony provided a firmware update on their 4K projectors to provide their users with the ability to better adjust contrast when viewing HDR content. Does Epson intend to provide a future firmware update to improve the quality of HDR content played on the 6040UB projector?

And the Epson response:

"Thank you for contacting Epson.  HDR 1 brightness is the brightest HDR setting available, when you go to a brighter image in HDR, some picture quality is lost."

Huh??? I think more owners need to submit tickets to Epson about their HDR issues to get them to wake up!


Sent from my Samsung S7 Edge


----------



## Evan201

Here's a snippet from a thread on the Denon AVR-S510BT receiver from AVS forums. 
Before I buy this thing I am wondering if anyone can help me with some predictions. 
I want to achieve 4k/24p HDR from my new Nvidia Shield TV 2017 and I'm not sure that I will get it right when passing the 4k/24p from the Shield through the Denon. 
Based on this description of the receiver below, does anyone think it will be a problem when setting the Shield to 4k/24p, running it through the Denon HDMI 2.0a input, then out to the projector to achieve 4k/24p HDR streaming? Will the projector accept it as 4k/24p or will it get tripped up thinking that it's being fed a 4k/60hz signal from the Denon? Will the projector down convert the 60hz to the 24? Will I lose the HDR? 
*
DENON AVR-S510BT*
This is a 5CH AVR which features Bluetooth, but* is not a networking model*. Firmware updates would be installed via the USB jack. It includes a mic for a basic (ie. non-Audyssey) single position speaker/sub calibration. It can display the GUI over 2D/3D video on HDMI1 and HDMI2 and pass through 4k/60Hz video from HDMI3/HDMI4/HDMI5 but cannot display the GUI over 4k video. It does not feature: HDMI(ARC), HDMI Control, Audyssey, speaker posts (uses spring clips) or Component Video inputs/output. It comes with a 2 year Denon warranty if purchased from an authorized dealer.


----------



## LumenChip

akgolf said:


> Actually I live in Oklahoma now, after living in Alaska for the last 28 years.
> 
> I'll get with my installer and see what brands of screens he deals with. See if I have other options through him.
> 
> Did you go with the 16:9 or 2.35:1 screen on your 150 inch screen?
> 
> Also how far back is your projector from the screen?
> 
> My room will be 18x11.5 feet, so still not sure what is practical for this room. I did see a demo of a Sony 675 in a room similar in size to mine with a 140 inch screen and it was impressive.


I went with the 16:9 as I wanted a full size picture for both 16:9 and 2.35:1 and also like Imax movies with switching aspect ratios. My projector is 22.5 ft from the screen. With the lights off I use the cinema mode with medium lamp. For a brighter presentation with Natural mode I use medium lamp with the manual Iris at -7 clicks, and it is still too bright. Even with some ambient light, high lamp mode is not an option. I think my 6040 is a lot brighter than spec.


----------



## akgolf

LumenChip said:


> I went with the 16:9 as I wanted a full size picture for both 16:9 and 2.35:1 and also like Imax movies with switching aspect ratios. My projector is 22.5 ft from the screen. With the lights off I use the cinema mode with medium lamp. For a brighter presentation with Natural mode I use medium lamp with the manual Iris at -7 clicks, and it is still too bright. Even with some ambient light, high lamp mode is not an option. I think my 6040 is a lot brighter than spec.


Thanks. 

I was thinking of going with the 16:9 also. It still allows a pretty large 2.35:1 image.


----------



## bluer101

Boxed up my 5040 and returned to BB. They then were able to sell me another one for the discounted price with manager override. Also I still qualify for 2 day free shipping so it will be delivered at home Friday. Another great thing about it is, I have another 45 day return period. I was in and out of BB within 15 minutes, go to love that.


----------



## Docj04

siuengr said:


> I went with a Silver Ticket 120" White 1.1 gain, STR-169120. For a light controlled room, you don't need a grey screen. The screen actually measures around .98 gain, but still good enough for a light controlled room. It looks amazing, and has been rated nearly as good as screens costing 10x more.


How recently did you get your Silverticket screen? About 3 months ago when I was deciding which screen to get, Silverticket informed me that they were totally redesigning their screen to help reduce graininess and sparkle. Do you know if you got the "new and improved" offering?


----------



## siuengr

Docj04 said:


> How recently did you get your Silverticket screen? About 3 months ago when I was deciding which screen to get, Silverticket informed me that they were totally redesigning their screen to help reduce graininess and sparkle. Do you know if you got the "new and improved" offering?


I have no idea which version I got. I bought it at the end of October. The version I got said it was 4K Ultra HD ready, and I don't notice any graininess or sparkle.


----------



## bigabit

Watched Jack Reacher 2 on UHD...I think it's the first title I've encountered where I could never get the image to blow out. I typically use the much discussed Natural mode with modified gamma on HDR1. But even turning Super White off never impacted detail in sky or bright areas. Just looked brighter overall. The boosted gamma did still look better than without (at the cost of raised black levels).

Have not put in the regular Bluray for comparison but thought this one looked pretty great in HDR.


----------



## dimi123

Boldlygo said:


> But here's the problem - colour reproduction in the 4K version is NOT as good as the Bluray version of the same movie! I've gone back and forth many, many times with ST: Beyond's discs as well as Suicide Squad. For ST, I looked at the early scene when Kirk, Spock & McCoy are standing on the bridge looking at the 'snow globe in space' and the colours of their uniforms are plain, blah. But put in the BD disc, and the colours pop out. Later on same thing - when they are all getting off The Enterprise and you see a big crowd of Star Trek personnel, the colours of the BD disc are always better. This is not what 4K with HDR is supposed to be? Is it? What am I doing wrong?? And BTW, the resolution, or detail of the BD compared to the 4K is almost the same. At this point I'm preferring to watch the BD - why did I invest so much in 4K??


I think it has to do with the mastering and color grading of the transfer. On Star Trek Beyond and Suicide Squad the differences are subtle, try watching Gods Of Egypt or Warcraft on UHD - totally different color grading than the Blu-ray.


----------



## Stecchino

Docj04 said:


> How recently did you get your Silverticket screen? About 3 months ago when I was deciding which screen to get, Silverticket informed me that they were totally redesigning their screen to help reduce graininess and sparkle. Do you know if you got the "new and improved" offering?




I was using the silver ticket, 110 inch, white material, 1.0 gain. I had it for about a year and didn't notice any grain that was not in the original content or sparkle with the Epson 5040. I just installed the woven acoustic material version from silver ticket and will fire that up this weekend.


----------



## rogermoore123

Hi everyone, I'm interested in everyone's panel alignment quality. Mine was out a fair bit on the blue and red up almost one pixel. Took a long time to get better with the inbuilt convergence patterns.
Ended up using the AVS horizontal and verticle patterns to get it within half a pixel. If you do it only shift using the corner adjustments using 8 steps each corner in the same direction = one pixel so no digital scaling will be used.
Also have all enhancements turned off and minimal lens shift.
Much sharper picture now.


----------



## migsta

Anybody go from the Epson 6010 to the 6040UB. I have a 6010 now and am thinking about this upgrade or don't bother unless I can go straight to their laser projectors (i.e. LS10500, etc.).

Also, if I make the move to the 6040UB does that mean that I can play UHD Bluray's via a UHD player or stream them (assuming a UHD CD ROM will be available soon) by ripping them with MakeMKV to an MKV format for example. I'm asking this because none of Epson's projectors, including the 6040UB, are native 4k. What would happen if I got a UHD player and sent it to my current 6010 - would the 4k disc play and then just downgrade to 1080p? 

Finally, do you think I can pass a 4k signal using a very long Audioquest Cinnamon cable which I'm using right now. It's probably around 40 feet long. If that cable doesn't work, what cable in the 40 to 50 feet range is highly recommended?


----------



## Boldlygo

That's exactly what I did. What a difference! Besides the better picture, the motorized zooming and positioning with memory is a big plus. I went from a 110" 16:9 powered screen to a 125" 2:35 screen so I could watch movies in that format full-screen. What a difference!
Even though the new Epson is not native 4K, it still accepts all 4K and HDR signals. Read up on all the specs - it does pixel shifting to emulate 4K. Most call it psuedo-4K.
I'm now using the new OPPO UDP-203 4K player and all 4K movies play fine. I don't think the 6010 will accept any 4K signal - it wouldn't know how to interpret it.
As for your cable - not familiar with it. But I had a generic 40' cable with the 6010 and it works fine with the 6040.



migsta said:


> Anybody go from the Epson 6010 to the 6040UB. I have a 6010 now and am thinking about this upgrade or don't bother unless I can go straight to their laser projectors (i.e. LS10500, etc.).
> 
> Also, if I make the move to the 6040UB does that mean that I can play UHD Bluray's via a UHD player or stream them (assuming a UHD CD ROM will be available soon) by ripping them with MakeMKV to an MKV format for example. I'm asking this because none of Epson's projectors, including the 6040UB, are native 4k. What would happen if I got a UHD player and sent it to my current 6010 - would the 4k disc play and then just downgrade to 1080p?
> 
> Finally, do you think I can pass a 4k signal using a very long Audioquest Cinnamon cable which I'm using right now. It's probably around 40 feet long. If that cable doesn't work, what cable in the 40 to 50 feet range is highly recommended?


----------



## crosswire

rogermoore123 said:


> Hi everyone, I'm interested in everyone's panel alignment quality. Mine was out a fair bit on the blue and red up almost one pixel. Took a long time to get better with the inbuilt convergence patterns.
> Ended up using the AVS horizontal and verticle patterns to get it within half a pixel. If you do it only shift using the corner adjustments using 8 steps each corner in the same direction = one pixel so no digital scaling will be used.
> *Also have all enhancements turned off and minimal lens shift.*
> Much sharper picture now.


Can you elaborate please on what were turned off. I did the panel alignment as well.


----------



## migsta

Boldlygo said:


> That's exactly what I did. What a difference! Besides the better picture, the motorized zooming and positioning with memory is a big plus. I went from a 110" 16:9 powered screen to a 125" 2:35 screen so I could watch movies in that format full-screen. What a difference!
> Even though the new Epson is not native 4K, it still accepts all 4K and HDR signals. Read up on all the specs - it does pixel shifting to emulate 4K. Most call it psuedo-4K.
> I'm now using the new OPPO UDP-203 4K player and all 4K movies play fine. I don't think the 6010 will accept any 4K signal - it wouldn't know how to interpret it.
> As for your cable - not familiar with it. But I had a generic 40' cable with the 6010 and it works fine with the 6040.


Okay, thanks for the response.

So are you saying that the 6040UB does not require a certified 4k cable to work. My current 40 plus foot Audioquest Cinnamon is relatively high end but it's an older cable and I'm concerned that I might not get the best picture from it using the 6040UB but running another one might be next to impossible now.

On the screen side, I have an older Stewart Firehawk G3 90 inch diagonal. Can't really go any larger and I don't want to change the screen. The distance is about 16 ft from the screen to the projector which is ceiling mounted. Any issues with this setup and the 6040UB in place of my current 6010?


----------



## rogermoore123

crosswire said:


> Can you elaborate please on what were turned off. I did the panel alignment as well.


To make sure you have the alignment as good as it can be - during adjustment I had FI off,4k enhancement off,picture enhancement off as well as all digital sharpening settings off.
Align panel until both red and blue pixels are as clear as possible(priority)and inline as much as possible with green.
Then turn back on your other digital enhancements to your picture preference ( I tuned them with text on the screen ).


----------



## Chris the Rock

Just sent the following to Epson Support, just to see what answer I get. I am 100% sure they will give me an answer off of their script, and tell me nothing. I'm just trying to add logs to the fire.

I have had my share of issues getting UHD playback from the Oppo 203 through my Marantz AV7702ii to work properly, so I haven't had any time to monkey around with the settings too much, but this was my first reaction.

I'm just hoping that more people speak up and say something, because I really believe that with an update or two, this will get worked out. 

And I REALLY wish there was some software available, like a DVE UHD disc, so I could calibrate* the UHD+HDR picture with something other picture information from a scene in a movie. _ *yes, I know adjusting with a disc isn't really "calibrating"..._

I'm blown away by the quality from BD playback and Console Gaming. I just wish UHD looked better out of the box.



> The image from UHD Discs played in HDR mode is too dark, and lacks detail in low-light scenes. I am playing back in Digital Cinema mode, using HDR1 mode, the brightest available. Please tell me how to get an image with enough detail in the lower-light parts of the picture. Blu-Ray discs played back in Standard Dynamic Range have much more detail in the darker parts of the picture.
> 
> The HDR playback from UHD discs at this point is unacceptable, and doesn't offer any improvement over Blu-Ray discs.
> 
> I am using an Oppo 203 UHD Player and a Marantz AV7702mk2 processor, and neither is doing anything to the picture.
> 
> What can I do to raise the overall light output in Digital Cinema mode, besides putting the projector in "High" Energy Use mode? I expect UHD to look at least as good as Blu Ray discs - and even better, in fact, with the expanded color gamut and high dynamic range, but in fact they look much worse. Washed out, with not nearly enough detail in lower-light scenes.
> 
> I can't be the only customer with this issue. Please let me know if anything can be done to improve my experience. I will be very disappointed if you tell me this is the way it's "supposed to be". Because it isn't.


----------



## crosswire

rogermoore123 said:


> To make sure you have the alignment as good as it can be - during adjustment I had FI off,4k enhancement off,picture enhancement off as well as all digital sharpening settings off.
> Align panel until both red and blue pixels are as clear as possible(priority)and inline as much as possible with green.
> Then turn back on your other digital enhancements to your picture preference ( I tuned them with text on the screen ).


Ok great. usually my 4k enhancement is greyed out. Should I do panel alignment with the bluray and denon receiver turned off first.


----------



## rogermoore123

crosswire said:


> Ok great. usually my 4k enhancement is greyed out. Should I do panel alignment with the bluray and denon receiver turned off first.


I wasn't happy with the epson pattern so I cross checked it from the verticle and horizontal AVS patterns on a USB key switching back and forwards to see the progress.
You can then use it to calibrate your other media devices as well.
There is also an iso image version as well for your bluray player.
Just make sure your amp and players are not upscaling or doing other processing first.
After this you can set all the black and white levels using the clipping patterns for your picture modes for a very basic calibration.
I also checked the color clipping which was only bad on red and blue in cinema mode - ( setup for rec709 ).


----------



## dvdwilly3

migsta said:


> Okay, thanks for the response.
> 
> So are you saying that the 6040UB does not require a certified 4k cable to work. My current 40 plus foot Audioquest Cinnamon is relatively high end but it's an older cable and I'm concerned that I might not get the best picture from it using the 6040UB but running another one might be next to impossible now.
> 
> On the screen side, I have an older Stewart Firehawk G3 90 inch diagonal. Can't really go any larger and I don't want to change the screen. The distance is about 16 ft from the screen to the projector which is ceiling mounted. Any issues with this setup and the 6040UB in place of my current 6010?


My 6040 is fed by a 10-year old 35' Monster Cable running thru my ceiling. There have been no issues. You should be alright with the Audioquest cable.

I also have a 92" Stewart Firehawk circa 2008 and likewise there have been no issues.


----------



## Boldlygo

Well, one way to test is to buy a 4K cable from a place you can return it, like Best Buy. It doesn't have to be too long. Once you get the new projector simply place it somewhere temporarily so you can do an A/B swap of the cables.

I'm 15' from the front of the lens to the front of my screen. The zoom is maxed out, which means if the projector was any closer the 2:35 image would not completely fill the screen. Smaller screens have no issue - you just adjust the zoom and positioning.



migsta said:


> Okay, thanks for the response.
> 
> So are you saying that the 6040UB does not require a certified 4k cable to work. My current 40 plus foot Audioquest Cinnamon is relatively high end but it's an older cable and I'm concerned that I might not get the best picture from it using the 6040UB but running another one might be next to impossible now.
> 
> On the screen side, I have an older Stewart Firehawk G3 90 inch diagonal. Can't really go any larger and I don't want to change the screen. The distance is about 16 ft from the screen to the projector which is ceiling mounted. Any issues with this setup and the 6040UB in place of my current 6010?


----------



## dholmes54

Ive said before,HDMI shouldn't be a problem,its been around for over ten yrs. Im using rca cables that are over 30 yrs old with no problems,unless you buy a generic cable HDMI cable it should work at any lenght.


----------



## welldun

quick questions, and one observation...

First the question: For those of you who have the Samsung UHD Blu-ray player and have done the firmware update which allows you to set the resolution to [email protected], are you now able to watch the Netflix HDR content, as wells as the AMazon HDR content? I ask this because in this thread I found a tip for watching Netflix HDR content via the Nvidia Shield simply by first setting the Shield Resolution to [email protected] which allows you to find and identify the HDR content on Netflix, then you have to switch the Resolution back to [email protected] for the Epson projector to accept and reproduce the HDR signal. I'm wondering you can do the same with the Samsung UHD player. If so then I might just pick one up and return the Nvidia Shield (although it seems like a nice unit). 

Now for the observation and a final question: Last night I watched Sully on Blu-ray with the Image Enhancement set to 3. I used Cinema mode with the Power Consumption set to Eco. I used DVE HD-Basics to calibrate that Mode, and all I can say is WOW! The movie looked amazing both in color and detail, (btw, the Audio Track is awesome in Atmos). For those of you who may have seen the movie, have you compared the Blu-ray version to the 4k version? 

As much as I want to pick up a UHD player, I'm really left wondering just how much more/better could the 4k player be when paired with the Epson? Is the picture quality, coloring and detail brought by the 4k version that much better than the Blu-ray with 4k Enhancement?


----------



## bluer101

rogermoore123 said:


> I wasn't happy with the epson pattern so I cross checked it from the verticle and horizontal AVS patterns on a USB key switching back and forwards to see the progress.
> You can then use it to calibrate your other media devices as well.
> There is also an iso image version as well for your bluray player.
> Just make sure your amp and players are not upscaling or doing other processing first.
> After this you can set all the black and white levels using the clipping patterns for your picture modes for a very basic calibration.
> I also checked the color clipping which was only bad on red and blue in cinema mode - ( setup for rec709 ).


How do display another test pattern while doing the panel alignment? When I did it on the 5040 I returned last night it had a pattern automatically come up. 



welldun said:


> quick questions, and one observation...
> 
> First the question: For those of you who have the Samsung UHD Blu-ray player and have done the firmware update which allows you to set the resolution to [email protected], are you now able to watch the Netflix HDR content, as wells as the AMazon HDR content? I ask this because in this thread I found a tip for watching Netflix HDR content via the Nvidia Shield simply by first setting the Shield Resolution to [email protected] which allows you to find and identify the HDR content on Netflix, then you have to switch the Resolution back to [email protected] for the Epson projector to accept and reproduce the HDR signal. I'm wondering you can do the same with the Samsung UHD player. If so then I might just pick one up and return the Nvidia Shield (although it seems like a nice unit).
> 
> Now for the observation and a final question: Last night I watched Sully on Blu-ray with the Image Enhancement set to 3. I used Cinema mode with the Power Consumption set to Eco. I used DVE HD-Basics to calibrate that Mode, and all I can say is WOW! The movie looked amazing both in color and detail, (btw, the Audio Track is awesome in Atmos). For those of you who may have seen the movie, have you compared the Blu-ray version to the 4k version?
> 
> As much as I want to pick up a UHD player, I'm really left wondering just how much more/better could the 4k player be when paired with the Epson? Is the picture quality, coloring and detail brought by the 4k version that much better than the Blu-ray with 4k Enhancement?


I'm with you, I have not watched any 4K material and for the most part 1080p blurays are just amazing with the 5040. I used a altered Image Enhancement set to 4.


----------



## bluer101

Now my BB order is backordered.


----------



## Chris the Rock

LOL. Here's the response, proving once again they never even read what you send them. 

"Try setting the "dynamic range/HDR mode" to 1 from 2 (default setting)."

Yes, that will make it brighter, won't it. :laugh:



Chris the Rock said:


> Just sent the following to Epson Support, just to see what answer I get. I am 100% sure they will give me an answer off of their script, and tell me nothing. I'm just trying to add logs to the fire.
> 
> I have had my share of issues getting UHD playback from the Oppo 203 through my Marantz AV7702ii to work properly, so I haven't had any time to monkey around with the settings too much, but this was my first reaction.
> 
> I'm just hoping that more people speak up and say something, because I really believe that with an update or two, this will get worked out.
> 
> And I REALLY wish there was some software available, like a DVE UHD disc, so I could calibrate* the UHD+HDR picture with something other picture information from a scene in a movie. _ *yes, I know adjusting with a disc isn't really "calibrating"..._
> 
> I'm blown away by the quality from BD playback and Console Gaming. I just wish UHD looked better out of the box.
> 
> "The image from UHD Discs played in HDR mode is too dark, and lacks detail in low-light scenes. I am playing back in Digital Cinema mode, using HDR1 mode, the brightest available. Please tell me how to get an image with enough detail in the lower-light parts of the picture. Blu-Ray discs played back in Standard Dynamic Range have much more detail in the darker parts of the picture.
> 
> The HDR playback from UHD discs at this point is unacceptable, and doesn't offer any improvement over Blu-Ray discs.
> 
> I am using an Oppo 203 UHD Player and a Marantz AV7702mk2 processor, and neither is doing anything to the picture.
> 
> What can I do to raise the overall light output in Digital Cinema mode, besides putting the projector in "High" Energy Use mode? I expect UHD to look at least as good as Blu Ray discs - and even better, in fact, with the expanded color gamut and high dynamic range, but in fact they look much worse. Washed out, with not nearly enough detail in lower-light scenes.
> 
> I can't be the only customer with this issue. Please let me know if anything can be done to improve my experience. I will be very disappointed if you tell me this is the way it's "supposed to be". Because it isn't."


----------



## migsta

*Not Cheap*

This is not a cheap projector in Canada at $5,400 plus taxes. Anybody get it much cheaper? Otherwise, just making the point in the event pricing can't be openly discussed on this forum.


----------



## LumenChip

migsta said:


> This is not a cheap projector in Canada at $5,400 plus taxes. Anybody get it much cheaper? Otherwise, just making the point in the event pricing can't be openly discussed on this forum.


Your cost should be around 10% lower


----------



## Savatage316

Question, whether I'm running thru my Pc or a console my signal always says 8 bit, 4:4:2, 709 sdr

Is that normal? Or should that definitely be saying 10 bit 2020?


----------



## DavidK442

migsta said:


> This is not a cheap projector in Canada at $5,400 plus taxes. Anybody get it much cheaper? Otherwise, just making the point in the event pricing can't be openly discussed on this forum.



Yes, ridiculous. Completely takes it out of consideration for us northerners.


----------



## Savatage316

I'm reading that Pc and consoles can only achieve 8 bit 4:2:0, and even if the signal would be 10 bit 4:4:4, it'd be downgraded. 

Is this something that can be changed via firmware to receive actual 4:4:4 10 bit 4k60?


----------



## bluer101

Update, now it says shipped and will be delivered tomorrow. It's coming from Davenport FL distribution center. 

Crazy!!!


----------



## SolRebel

Some interesting info on cables in here. I have been dragging my feet on upgrading from a 5030 to a 5040 largely due to the fact that I don?t want to rip my wall open and run new cables. I assumed I would need new cable to get 4k and/or HDR, but now I?m wondering if that is the case. Cable were fast as I could get at the time (end of 2013), Monoprice, 1 way Redmere. Think they might work? Worst case I could order the 5040 and test it out and return it if it didn?t work (or rip my wall open =]


----------



## welldun

SolRebel said:


> Some interesting info on cables in here. I have been dragging my feet on upgrading from a 5030 to a 5040 largely due to the fact that I don?t want to rip my wall open and run new cables. I assumed I would need new cable to get 4k and/or HDR, but now I?m wondering if that is the case. Cable were fast as I could get at the time (end of 2013), Monoprice, 1 way Redmere. Think they might work? Worst case I could order the 5040 and test it out and return it if it didn?t work (or rip my wall open =]


why not reach out to Monoprice and ask them what Gbps your cable is rated at? 

Or, depending on how the current hdmi wire is tide to the wall, pehaps if it's loose you could just tape the new one to one end of the old one and pull it through. 

I very much doubt that you would return the 5040ub due to the HDMI cable (once you have it at home).


----------



## SolRebel

Any thoughts on how 3D on the 5040 compares to the 5030?


----------



## perfectevolution

How is everyone's focus uniformity with these projectors?

I'm projecting onto a 150" screen and focus is softer as you move to the right of the screen. I use a HTPC and text is readable across the entire screen so the softness isn't awful. I can bring the right side into better focus with about 3 or 4 clicks, but then the rest of the screen is slightly soft.

It is most noticeable when doing panel alignment. The vertical lines towards the right of the screen have about 3 pixels of light smear which makes panel alignment a bit trickier.

Is there anyway to improve or adjust focus uniformity? My screen and projector are squared, panel alignment looks good, lens is clean, no keystone... anything else to try?


----------



## SolRebel

Monoprice thinks this is my hdmi 50 foot cable - 10.2 GBps 4k @ 24 Hz max. Think that will work for 4K and HDR?


----------



## Oledurt

This is my opinion take it for what it is worth...

I have owned this projector for a few months, and I can tell you HDR is a gimmick on this projector. Yes technically It has HDR-10 but this projector can put out around 100 nits in Cinema mode calibrated which has the wide color gamut. If you run it in Natural you get around 200+ nits, and you lose the cinema filter.

HDR is mastered at anywhere from 1000 to 4000 nits. SDR works with 100 nits. So HDR is really only better if the display has the NITS to pull it off. If not you will probably get a better dynamic range with SDR.

I strip HDR and watch the discs BT2020 wide color and SDR. I use Cinema mode, and it looks great. Someday there will be standards and displays that can pull HDR off properly, but that is not today. 

This projector is awesome, but I think it is important to set your expectations correctly. HDR in its current form is just a gimmick on this projector.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## EL Duke

Ive been having a tinker with a 6040 the last few days as I was interested how it handled 4k disks and seeing as there was quite alot of talk about the picture being to dim I was interested to see for myself what the deal was.
Initially I was quite disappointed and yes the pic was not up to scratch. So I browsed the thread and got a few folks settings and gave them a bash also. All the settings I came across were based around bright cinema and natural mode which kind of defeats the purpose when wanting to get rec2020 but I could see why some people might like this as it did brighten the pic up but to me the colour was just way off.
Anyway round 2 was today and I got a bunch of disks out and had a play around. I switched between various films including Xmen apocalypse, revenant, kingsmen, mad max, deadpool, the accountant and warcraft to name a few and I thought these settings got the best pic that I have managed so far, which is really only been around 5 hours of playing with the projector. So if you are having trouble or are disappointed with hdr give these a bash and see how u get on.
Anyway Ive read that hdr mode 1 seems to be the go to mode and I can see why as obviously its the brightest but it can really blow out highlights so I gonna throw a curve ball and say start off with the setting at auto which is hdr 2, there was a few films when I would use hdr 1 but to me 2 just seemed abit more natural. Im viewing in a dark room also so Im not looking for a really bright pic but Ive found these good enough for my eyes at least.
Cinema mode, 
Brightness 64, I shifted up brightness to the point where it would effect the colour of the black bars and I would shift it back a few notchs which was around 64.
Contrast 65, again this could be down to taste I noticed you could go higher but take deadpool for example if you boost it to much then in the daytime scenes with the sky as background the sky would just be white.
Colour 55,
Colour temp to taste but I have it at 4. 
Gamma plus 1
Image preset 3
Power on medium and I have the iris set at -5. 
Everything else I think is default to the best of my knowledge.


----------



## Smarty-pants

Savatage316 said:


> I'm reading that Pc and consoles can only achieve 8 bit 4:2:0, and even if the signal would be 10 bit 4:4:4, it'd be downgraded.
> 
> Is this something that can be changed via firmware to receive actual 4:4:4 10 bit 4k60?


Nope. The Epson 4040/5040/6040 are limited to 10.2 GBps input signals.
Pretty much what you see on the the chart from the following link, is what your pj can display. (the 8.9 GBps signals in green)
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/HDMI_data_rates.png


----------



## EL Duke

My biggest pet hate for this projector is I can get some really bad colour banding in both hdr and sdr modes. Oblivion, deadpool and the martian really stuck out anytime the skyline is in the background. But also on say the blue background on the playstation 4 menus is really bad. Any suggestions to try tame this?


----------



## Smarty-pants

SolRebel said:


> Some interesting info on cables in here. I have been dragging my feet on upgrading from a 5030 to a 5040 largely due to the fact that I don?t want to rip my wall open and run new cables. I assumed I would need new cable to get 4k and/or HDR, but now I?m wondering if that is the case. Cable were fast as I could get at the time (end of 2013), Monoprice, 1 way Redmere. Think they might work? Worst case I could order the 5040 and test it out and return it if it didn?t work (or rip my wall open =]


Is it the Cabernet one from Monoprice? If so, then it's probably fine.
I have that cable in 35 ft length and bought it a few years ago. It works fine with the 5040 since the 5040
won't even accept anything about 10.2 GBps, and the mainstream signals it does currently accept
(24/25/30Hz @ 4:4:4/8b and 4:2:2/12b ... 50/60HZ @ 4:2:0/8b) are all 8.9 GBps.


----------



## chiltonj

SolRebel said:


> Some interesting info on cables in here. I have been dragging my feet on upgrading from a 5030 to a 5040 largely due to the fact that I don?t want to rip my wall open and run new cables. I assumed I would need new cable to get 4k and/or HDR, but now I?m wondering if that is the case. Cable were fast as I could get at the time (end of 2013), Monoprice, 1 way Redmere. Think they might work? Worst case I could order the 5040 and test it out and return it if it didn?t work (or rip my wall open =]


I upgraded from the 6030 to 6040 using the same monoprice hdmi cable that is about 5 years old. Works fine. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## Smarty-pants

EL Duke said:


> My biggest pet hate for this projector is I can get some really bad colour banding in both hdr and sdr modes. Oblivion, deadpool and the martian really stuck out anytime the skyline is in the background. But also on say the blue background on the playstation 4 menus is really bad. Any suggestions to try tame this?


If the incoming signals are 8 bit, then that is probably why, and if the source device can do 4:2:2 / 12 bit instead,
then you are likely to see less banding. However if the source device can't be forced to send 4:2:2 / 12 bit,
then you are likely stuck with what you are seeing.
Sometimes banding is caused by other things too, like the source material.
For displays like the faux-4K projectors, they are always going to be limited in what they can receive and
the overall light output is much less than that of fixed panel displays like OLED.
It will be several years before all of this gets much better and affordable to get the best picture quality period... unfortunately.


----------



## HarleyRider

Oledurt said:


> This is my opinion take it for what it is worth...
> 
> I have owned this projector for a few months, and I can tell you HDR is a gimmick on this projector. Yes technically It has HDR-10 but this projector can put out around 100 nits in Cinema mode calibrated which has the wide color gamut. If you run it in Natural you get around 200+ nits, and you lose the cinema filter.
> 
> HDR is mastered at anywhere from 1000 to 4000 nits. SDR works with 100 nits. So HDR is really only better if the display has the NITS to pull it off. If not you will probably get a better dynamic range with SDR.
> 
> I strip HDR and watch the discs BT2020 wide color and SDR. I use Cinema mode, and it looks great. Someday there will be standards and displays that can pull HDR off properly, but that is not today.
> 
> This projector is awesome, but I think it is important to set your expectations correctly. HDR in its current form is just a gimmick on this projector.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm with you on this. I've wasted way too many hours trying to get HDR to give me even a marginally acceptable image and it just isn't happening. Last night I resigned myself to the fact that I'll just need to force SDR for 4K discs and enjoy the increased clarity from the pixel shifting and increased color gamut. Spent a couple hours today calibrating cinema and digital cinema modes at Eco and Med power levels, SDR, BT2020. I'm done with HDR on this thing.


----------



## Limp Fox

Given the frowned upon HDR on the 6040 would one suggest just going with the significantly cheaper 5040UB or UBE? The 6040 is 400,000 more contrast and 100 lumens brighter , but I'm not sure how much that would matter. 

I plan to mount whichever PJ I get at about 14' 6" from a 110" Black Diamond Zero Edge screen. This will be mounted in the living room, hence why I chose the screen I did. 

Thanks

Judd


----------



## bluer101

My new replacement 5040ub arrived today. Got it mounted and all settings redone. Watched oblivion and now watching revenant on bluray. Still have not taken any 4K plunge as regular bluray is still mind blowing.


----------



## welldun

welldun said:


> quick questions, and one observation...
> 
> First the question: For those of you who have the Samsung UHD Blu-ray player and have done the firmware update which allows you to set the resolution to [email protected], are you now able to watch the Netflix HDR content, as wells as the AMazon HDR content? I ask this because in this thread I found a tip for watching Netflix HDR content via the Nvidia Shield simply by first setting the Shield Resolution to [email protected] which allows you to find and identify the HDR content on Netflix, then you have to switch the Resolution back to [email protected] for the Epson projector to accept and reproduce the HDR signal. I'm wondering you can do the same with the Samsung UHD player. If so then I might just pick one up and return the Nvidia Shield (although it seems like a nice unit).
> 
> Now for the observation and a final question: Last night I watched Sully on Blu-ray with the Image Enhancement set to 3. I used Cinema mode with the Power Consumption set to Eco. I used DVE HD-Basics to calibrate that Mode, and all I can say is WOW! The movie looked amazing both in color and detail, (btw, the Audio Track is awesome in Atmos). For those of you who may have seen the movie, have you compared the Blu-ray version to the 4k version?
> 
> As much as I want to pick up a UHD player, I'm really left wondering just how much more/better could the 4k player be when paired with the Epson? Is the picture quality, coloring and detail brought by the 4k version that much better than the Blu-ray with 4k Enhancement?


I guess I'll answer my own question for the benefit of those who might also be interested in the answers.

Tonight I brought home a Samsung UHD K8500 Blu-ray player and I played the Batman vs Superman 4k HDR Blu-ray on it while also playing the standard Blu-ray version on my Sony BDP-5200 Blu-ray player. when comparing the two by switching back and forth on the same scenes, the overall image quality when both were played with the image Enhancement was pretty much on par. The HDR version was obviously darker, and that could be due in part because HDR has not been calibrated properly. Nonetheless, I still don't see enough of a jump in image quality between the 4k version and the Standard blu-ray version (while using the Epson 5040ub at least). I think that for now I will just keep my Sony Blu-ray player and enjoy the brightness of the SDR content.

As for the apps on the Samsung player, they don't seem to work like they do on the Nvidia Shield, so I'll keep the Shield also.


----------



## rogermoore123

perfectevolution said:


> How is everyone's focus uniformity with these projectors?
> 
> I'm projecting onto a 150" screen and focus is softer as you move to the right of the screen. I use a HTPC and text is readable across the entire screen so the softness isn't awful. I can bring the right side into better focus with about 3 or 4 clicks, but then the rest of the screen is slightly soft.
> 
> It is most noticeable when doing panel alignment. The vertical lines towards the right of the screen have about 3 pixels of light smear which makes panel alignment a bit trickier.
> 
> Is there anyway to improve or adjust focus uniformity? My screen and projector are squared, panel alignment looks good, lens is clean, no keystone... anything else to try?


Make sure you have minimal lens shift - the more you use the more optical distortion.
Also as I stated earlier only shift pixels by 8 if you have to move them and always do all four corners otherwise there will be digital scaling used across the screen.
See if that helps.


----------



## rogermoore123

EL Duke said:


> My biggest pet hate for this projector is I can get some really bad colour banding in both hdr and sdr modes. Oblivion, deadpool and the martian really stuck out anytime the skyline is in the background. But also on say the blue background on the playstation 4 menus is really bad. Any suggestions to try tame this?


I had a lot of banding using the ps4pro when streaming 8bit sources.The ps4 upsamples to 12bit in auto which is no good and will create banding when converted in the projector. After turning ps4 down to 8bit ( hdmi limited ) the banding is gone ( but have to turn back for game full quality ).The amp is on pass through so no other processing.
Make sure your amp is not doing a second conversion before the projector converts.
My projector is on auto hdmi.


----------



## rogermoore123

welldun said:


> quick questions, and one observation...
> 
> 
> 
> Now for the observation and a final question: Last night I watched Sully on Blu-ray with the Image Enhancement set to 3. I used Cinema mode with the Power Consumption set to Eco. I used DVE HD-Basics to calibrate that Mode, and all I can say is WOW! The movie looked amazing both in color and detail, (btw, the Audio Track is awesome in Atmos). For those of you who may have seen the movie, have you compared the Blu-ray version to the 4k version?
> 
> As much as I want to pick up a UHD player, I'm really left wondering just how much more/better could the 4k player be when paired with the Epson? Is the picture quality, coloring and detail brought by the 4k version that much better than the Blu-ray with 4k Enhancement?


The picture will be double the infomation of bluray on your screen if you buy 4k mastered UHD blurays.
Read the reviews on bluray.com - Most of the UHD blurays are only 2k masters and actually rated worse than bluray picture quality.
There is a very small list of proper 4k or higher masters but it is growing.

http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=270798


----------



## HarleyRider

Limp Fox said:


> Given the frowned upon HDR on the 6040 would one suggest just going with the significantly cheaper 5040UB or UBE? The 6040 is 400,000 more contrast and 100 lumens brighter , but I'm not sure how much that would matter.
> 
> I plan to mount whichever PJ I get at about 14' 6" from a 110" Black Diamond Zero Edge screen. This will be mounted in the living room, hence why I chose the screen I did.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Judd


The Epson 6040UB and 5040UB models have the same specs. Both are 2500 lumens and 1,000,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio. With the 6040 you get a ceiling mount, a spare lamp, and ISF-certified calibration tools. Knowing what I know now about the HDR capability of just about ANY


----------



## dholmes54

So you guys are saying your using SDR instead of HDR even with 4k blu-rays?


----------



## bigabit

Oledurt said:


> This projector is awesome, but I think it is important to set your expectations correctly. HDR in its current form is just a gimmick on this projector.


It does *feel* like it can do the required brightness and wide color gamut required for HDR, just not at the same time.

To me it's on the same level as the 4k "enhancement". Nice to have now, look forward to the real deal.

Once you tweak the settings hard enough to get watchable HDR content, it's really more like HDR "enhanced". Certainly not reference.

My screen is too large and I have to be in high lamp mode and Natural or Bright Cinema anyway. So if I can get a watchable HDR image with any settings I am stoked, even if the improvement is marginal. It's a tough line to walk however because SDR always looks perfect.

I still watch the 4k discs and feel they are worth the investment.


----------



## bigabit

dholmes54 said:


> So you guys are saying your using SDR instead of HDR even with 4k blu-rays?


It's not a bad option.

But I find that the 4k discs that don't look amazing in HDR don't look much better with it disabled. The discs like Lucy that look great in HDR also look great with it disabled. In those cases might as well use the HDR. Or not.

The most frustrating thing is the inconsistency across releases, resulting in there being no definitive best option.


----------



## welldun

rogermoore123 said:


> The picture will be double the infomation of bluray on your screen if you buy 4k mastered UHD blurays.
> Read the reviews on bluray.com - Most of the UHD blurays are only 2k masters and actually rated worse than bluray picture quality.
> There is a very small list of proper 4k or higher masters but it is growing.
> 
> http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=270798


The 4K movie that I tried last night which was Batman versus Superman is one of the ones on the list of 4k mastered movies. Like I said in my post, I didn't see enough of a difference between the standard Blu ray and the 4k Blu ray to absolutely sell me on 4k being that much better than the standard Blu ray with 4k enhancement on the 5040ub projector. However I'm sure that if I bring it over to my samsung KS 8000 TV I will probably see a little bit more of a difference... but then again, the size of the screen on the TV being 55 inches probably won't make a big difference anyways since I don't sit close enough to get full use of the 4k benefit anyway.
I guess the bigger point is that the standard BluRay with the 4K enhancement on the Epson 5040ub is that good that personally I don't feel I need to get a 4K Blu-ray player. Instead I will more than likely put that money towards an elite screens 100 inch Aeon series Edge free screen to maximize my viewing experience in the room.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs bidabit


----------



## HarleyRider

bigabit said:


> It's not a bad option.
> 
> But I find that the 4k discs that don't look amazing in HDR don't look much better with it disabled. The discs like Lucy that look great in HDR also look great with it disabled. In those cases might as well use the HDR. Or not.
> 
> The most frustrating thing is the inconsistency across releases, resulting in there being no definitive best option.


This is very true. Hunger Games Mockingjay 1 and 2 look equally lackluster in both SDR and HDR, although HDR is completely unwatchable.


----------



## gene4ht

Oledurt said:


> This is my opinion take it for what it is worth...
> 
> I have owned this projector for a few months, and I can tell you HDR is a gimmick on this projector. Yes technically It has HDR-10 but this projector can put out around 100 nits in Cinema mode calibrated which has the wide color gamut. If you run it in Natural you get around 200+ nits, and you lose the cinema filter.
> 
> HDR is mastered at anywhere from 1000 to 4000 nits. SDR works with 100 nits. So HDR is really only better if the display has the NITS to pull it off. If not you will probably get a better dynamic range with SDR.
> 
> I strip HDR and watch the discs BT2020 wide color and SDR. I use Cinema mode, and it looks great. Someday there will be standards and displays that can pull HDR off properly, but that is not today.
> 
> This projector is awesome, but I think it is important to set your expectations correctly. HDR in its current form is just a gimmick on this projector.


From the onset, when I first watched a couple of 4K HDR Blu Rays (The Martian & The Revenant - both dark transfers to begin with) and found them to be unacceptably dark, I was a bit disappointed but knew that current PJ's just didn't have the necessary or ability to increase lumens for acceptable HDR performance. Like many, I sat on the sidelines hoping those with more patience and desire to tinker would find acceptable settings. Ultimately, I agreed with and adopted @rupedogg24 position..."Turn off HDR and watch SDR with BT 709/BT 2020." This PJ simply throws a beautiful, sharp, detailed, and bright image with 4K enhancement. For me, I'm enthralled and amazed with the SDR image. IMO, HDR is a "nice to have" and not a "must have." Future generations of PJ's will undoubtedly get it right.


----------



## rupedogg24

gene4ht said:


> From the onset, when I first watched a couple of 4K HDR Blu Rays (The Martian & The Revenant - both dark transfers to begin with) and found them to be unacceptably dark, I was a bit disappointed but knew that current PJ's just didn't have the necessary or ability to increase lumens for acceptable HDR performance. Like many, I sat on the sidelines hoping those with more patience and desire to tinker would find acceptable settings. Ultimately, I agreed with and adopted @rupedogg24 position..."Turn off HDR and watch SDR with BT 709/BT 2020." This PJ simply throws a beautiful, sharp, detailed, and bright image with 4K enhancement. For me, I'm enthralled and amazed with the SDR image. IMO, HDR is a "nice to have" and not a "must have." Future generations of PJ's will undoubtedly get it right.


And I haven't gone back since. The picture is amazing on this projector. That coupled with my onkyo rz1100 and a great atmos track makes for a thrilling experience in my home theater. I thought about getting the HDfury but looked at it and felt like I would be 'doing too much'. Turn off HDR, sit back, and enjoy what this projector can do for the price. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

HarleyRider said:


> This is very true. Hunger Games Mockingjay 1 and 2 look equally lackluster in both SDR and HDR, although HDR is completely unwatchable.


There some 1080p discs like Oblivion that look just as good if not better than some 4k discs that I've seen. The Epson absolutely murders 1080p Blurays. Have gone back and watched multiple films with additional details being pulled out like never before. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## HarleyRider

rupedogg24 said:


> There some 1080p discs like Oblivion that look just as good if not better than some 4k discs that I've seen. The Epson absolutely murders 1080p Blurays. Have gone back and watched multiple films with additional details being pulled out like never before.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Totally agree. Wife and I watched Frozen for about the 12th time last weekend, but first time on the new Epson. Even my wife who is largely indifferent about these things kept commenting on how vivid and sharp the picture was, and how she never saw the subtle freckles on Anna's shoulders before when watching it on the Sony 40ES.


----------



## BRADH

Just order the 6040ub. It will replace a Samsung SP-A900. I am currently using a monoprice 25ft HDMI cable from my Denon AVP-A1HDCI to the Samsung. Which works perfectly with my current setup. 


My question is what monoprice cable would give me HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 at 25ft. Is 2.0 compatible with current setup or will I need to leave the cable I have and run a new one for the 2.0 input.


I will be adding a ultra blu-ray player and upgrading the Denon pretty soon. 


Thanks in advance.


Brad


----------



## Smarty-pants

BRADH said:


> Just order the 6040ub. It will replace a Samsung SP-A900. I am currently using a monoprice 25ft HDMI cable from my Denon AVP-A1HDCI to the Samsung. Which works perfectly with my current setup.
> 
> 
> My question is what monoprice cable would give me HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 at 25ft. Is 2.0 compatible with current setup or will I need to leave the cable I have and run a new one for the 2.0 input.
> 
> 
> I will be adding a ultra blu-ray player and upgrading the Denon pretty soon.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Brad


You are really on the cusp of being able to use a "certified for 18GBps cable".
Most of them work up to 20ft, with a few that might work at 25ft. BlueJeansCables is supposed to have one that works at 25ft,
but I think it cost $100. You can try one of the Monoprice active cables (Cabernet or Luxe series),
and one of those should work too, but most likely they will fail with 4K/10b/60Hz signals.

Having said that, the Epson projectors can not do 18 GBps signals. Only 10.2 GBps or lower,
so you don't necessarily NEED a cable that can do 18 GBps consistently.
However if you went that route, you would be somewhat futureproof.
On the other hand, cable technology is likely to improve more over the next few years, and you could just
try not going with an 18 GBps cable and worry about it later.

Heck, if you have a quality high speed cable in place already that can do 10.2 GBps, you'd be better off just using that right now
with an Epson 4040/5040/6040.


----------



## john barlow

EL Duke said:


> Ive been having a tinker with a 6040 the last few days as I was interested how it handled 4k disks and seeing as there was quite alot of talk about the picture being to dim I was interested to see for myself what the deal was.
> Initially I was quite disappointed and yes the pic was not up to scratch. So I browsed the thread and got a few folks settings and gave them a bash also. All the settings I came across were based around bright cinema and natural mode which kind of defeats the purpose when wanting to get rec2020 but I could see why some people might like this as it did brighten the pic up but to me the colour was just way off.
> Anyway round 2 was today and I got a bunch of disks out and had a play around. I switched between various films including Xmen apocalypse, revenant, kingsmen, mad max, deadpool, the accountant and warcraft to name a few and I thought these settings got the best pic that I have managed so far, which is really only been around 5 hours of playing with the projector. So if you are having trouble or are disappointed with hdr give these a bash and see how u get on.
> Anyway Ive read that hdr mode 1 seems to be the go to mode and I can see why as obviously its the brightest but it can really blow out highlights so I gonna throw a curve ball and say start off with the setting at auto which is hdr 2, there was a few films when I would use hdr 1 but to me 2 just seemed abit more natural. Im viewing in a dark room also so Im not looking for a really bright pic but Ive found these good enough for my eyes at least.
> Cinema mode,
> Brightness 64, I shifted up brightness to the point where it would effect the colour of the black bars and I would shift it back a few notchs which was around 64.
> Contrast 65, again this could be down to taste I noticed you could go higher but take deadpool for example if you boost it to much then in the daytime scenes with the sky as background the sky would just be white.
> Colour 55,
> Colour temp to taste but I have it at 4.
> Gamma plus 1
> Image preset 3
> Power on medium and I have the iris set at -5.
> Everything else I think is default to the best of my knowledge.


I've been spending a great deal of time learning to navigate this PJ's controls also. With standard Blu Ray on my last two PJ's, once I found a good setting, I rarely had to monkey with PQ settings. This is new for me. Some 4k discs have just looked God awful to me. For example, Magnificent 7 4K. No matter what I did, I couldn't flesh out a good pick with this disc. I ejected it and put the Blu Ray in the tray and hit play. Much better PQ. Watched Ender's Game in 4k. Great pic, almost perfect. This is what I don't understand about 4k and HDR, why is there so much PQ variance between titles? There ought to be standards when claiming superior 4k or HDR and they look worse than standard DVDs no? Thankfully, I only shelled out 19. for this disk at BB and I had the Blu ray to fall back on. I don't think I will get a professional calibration on this PJ. How can you calibrate when every disc you play needs a plethora of different settings? Anyone out there get good PQ, with the Mag 7 4k, kindly share your settings with me. It's funny that I'm even writing this because for the most part I love this PJ and then I pop in a movie that can't even get a decent PQ and I feel like I"m back on square one.


----------



## BRADH

Smarty-pants said:


> You are really on the cusp of being able to use a "certified for 18GBps cable".
> Most of them work up to 20ft, with a few that might work at 25ft. BlueJeansCables is supposed to have one that works at 25ft,
> but I think it cost $100. You can try one of the Monoprice active cables (Cabernet or Luxe series),
> and one of those should work too, but most likely they will fail with 4K/10b/60Hz signals.
> 
> Having said that, the Epson projectors can not do 18 GBps signals. Only 10.2 GBps or lower,
> so you don't necessarily NEED a cable that can do 18 GBps consistently.
> However if you went that route, you would be somewhat futureproof.
> On the other hand, cable technology is likely to improve more over the next few years, and you could just
> try not going with an 18 GBps cable and worry about it later.
> 
> Heck, if you have a quality high speed cable in place already that can do 10.2 GBps, you'd be better off just using that right now
> with an Epson 4040/5040/6040.


Thanks for the info. I have been reading a lot here and on the web. It get kind of confusing at times. The truth is Iam not for sure which monoprice cable I have. I will look into the Bluejeanscable. I would like to replace it just once. 

Another part of my question was would I be able to use a 2.0 cable and the 2.0 input on the 6040 with my current pre-pro until I upgrade it, or would I need to use the other HDMI input on the 6040. 

Thanks for the help

Brad


----------



## gene4ht

john barlow said:


> I've been spending a great deal of time learning to navigate this PJ's controls also. With standard Blu Ray on my last two PJ's, once I found a good setting, I rarely had to monkey with PQ settings. This is new for me. Some 4k discs have just looked God awful to me. For example, Magnificent 7 4K. No matter what I did, I couldn't flesh out a good pick with this disc. I ejected it and put the Blu Ray in the tray and hit play. Much better PQ. Watched Ender's Game in 4k. Great pic, almost perfect. This is what I don't understand about 4k and HDR, why is there so much PQ variance between titles? There ought to be standards when claiming superior 4k or HDR and they look worse than standard DVDs no? Thankfully, I only shelled out 19. for this disk at BB and I had the Blu ray to fall back on. I don't think I will get a professional calibration on this PJ. How can you calibrate when every disc you play needs a plethora of different settings? Anyone out there get good PQ, with the Mag 7 4k, kindly share your settings with me. It's funny that I'm even writing this because for the most part I love this PJ and then I pop in a movie that can't even get a decent PQ and I feel like I"m back on square one.


I think it's safe to say 4K and HDR are still pretty much in their infancy stages...especially for projectors. Those of us who frequent these threads are early adopters and are experiencing the growing pains. The facts appear to be that (1) PJ's at these price points are not yet ready for prime time as it relates to brightness and HDR and (2) the HDR content provided by the film makers are not yet governed by a standard to ensure consistent quality. Consequently, current owners appear to be divided into two camps...those who attempt to find/determine optimal settings for HDR and those who are happy with SDR. I personally prefer the latter as I find SDR's image to be excellent and I don't particularly care to modify settings for each disc or source. These issues will eventually be resolved in the coming generations of PJs and content. The price we pay as early adopters will always include bumps to ensure future owners experience plug and play.


----------



## flamjam

Can anyone comment on the motion with these projectors? We watch a lot of sport


----------



## Smarty-pants

BRADH said:


> Thanks for the info. I have been reading a lot here and on the web. It get kind of confusing at times. The truth is Iam not for sure which monoprice cable I have. I will look into the Bluejeanscable. I would like to replace it just once.
> 
> Another part of my question was would I be able to use a 2.0 cable and the 2.0 input on the 6040 with my current pre-pro until I upgrade it, or would I need to use the other HDMI input on the 6040.
> 
> Thanks for the help
> 
> Brad


HDMI 2.0 is backward compatible, so you can run video from your older AVR to the 5040 (HDMI-1 input) no problem for 1080p and lower resolutions.


----------



## panman40

rupedogg24 said:


> There some 1080p discs like Oblivion that look just as good if not better than some 4k discs that I've seen. The Epson absolutely murders 1080p Blurays. Have gone back and watched multiple films with additional details being pulled out like never before.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


I find HDR not great either and have it turned Off on my Oppo player. I have tried 2020 with natural pic mode but it's to red especially faces, may I ask the settings your using below please ?.

Picture mode,
709 or 2020,
Superwhite on or off,

Thank you.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

cant believe there is still no firmware fix for the HDR default to HDR1 when in Auto, thought it was coming late Dec early Jan!


----------



## EL Duke

Yeah couldn't agree more, you could play about with settings with every different film. Ive tried about half the uhds of what I have so far and the settings I posted get me in the ball park but I always play about depending on the film. For me I try and get a good outdoor scene and play about with brighness/contrast. Deadpool, the martian and oblivion for example have great scenes where if your brigness or contrast are ot the skyline will just be white mess so dial down till thoughs cloud start appearing or vise versa. 
I took a couple pics of suicide squad on uhd and bluray to compare and even though it can be quite a dark film the uhd to me still outdoes the bluray. The lighting itself just looks so much better and natural. I cant seem to post pics using mobile however.
When oppo fix the hdr to sdr conversion on their player I might see how that works out.
Overall though I do still like what the projector can output. For the price its an absolute bargain


----------



## EL Duke

rogermoore123 said:


> I had a lot of banding using the ps4pro when streaming 8bit sources.The ps4 upsamples to 12bit in auto which is no good and will create banding when converted in the projector. After turning ps4 down to 8bit ( hdmi limited ) the banding is gone ( but have to turn back for game full quality ).The amp is on pass through so no other processing.
> Make sure your amp is not doing a second conversion before the projector converts.
> My projector is on auto hdmi.


Thanks for this! The amp was the culprit, there was a processing setting on that I didnt know about and now its off mostly all sorted.


----------



## rupedogg24

panman40 said:


> I find HDR not great either and have it turned Off on my Oppo player. I have tried 2020 with natural pic mode but it's to red especially faces, may I ask the settings your using below please ?.
> 
> Picture mode,
> 709 or 2020,
> Superwhite on or off,
> 
> Thank you.


Natural 
709
Super white off

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## EL Duke

If wanting to use rec2020 you should be using cinema or digital cinema mode also


----------



## covsound1

i find hdr great on this projector all most 3d like with out the glasses. most people are stuck trying to set up hdr like old school technology. the pipe has all the flow just have to turn it on.i thought by turning turning up gamma was the way to go but it is not.it has to come down!what goes up is your contrast and your brightness controls your black floor.when doing hdr you lose control of your a.i. your ai becomes your brightness setting. i have made a memory called 4k hdr1 and i tested it with a bunch of 4k movies and not once did i have to make an adjustment! i have a white screen and my blacks are just as good or better than what you get sdr 2020 with ai! color just pops and most seens are wow factor.all this in cinema eco mode hdr1.until epson gives us more hdr options or control you will get whites a little blown out you can turn on super-white your taste. i know you must saying what are the settings.-2 gamma is not enough to get it done has to be drop to at least -4 leave top and bottom set at 0 in custom gamma and than play with other settings bring up contrast 68 or more to your srceen and set your black level with your brightness.make a memory slot name it and enjoy your hdr projector.


----------



## EL Duke

Could you share you custom gamma setting id like to give it a try and is something I have no idea where to start. Are you using the graph or image setting?


----------



## panman40

rupedogg24 said:


> Natural
> 709
> Super white off
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Thanks, that's what I'm actually doing but I thought you said the WCG was great ?. With those settings your not using 2020 ?.


----------



## panman40

EL Duke said:


> If wanting to use rec2020 you should be using cinema or digital cinema mode also


Yes that's what I was thinking but WCG 2020 is selectable in natural mode, be interesting if covsound1 comes back with these HDR settings..


----------



## Oledurt

covsound1 said:


> i find hdr great on this projector all most 3d like with out the glasses. most people are stuck trying to set up hdr like old school technology. the pipe has all the flow just have to turn it on.i thought by turning turning up gamma was the way to go but it is not.it has to come down!what goes up is your contrast and your brightness controls your black floor.when doing hdr you lose control of your a.i. your ai becomes your brightness setting. i have made a memory called 4k hdr1 and i tested it with a bunch of 4k movies and not once did i have to make an adjustment! i have a white screen and my blacks are just as good or better than what you get sdr 2020 with ai! color just pops and most seens are wow factor.all this in cinema eco mode hdr1.until epson gives us more hdr options or control you will get whites a little blown out you can turn on super-white your taste. i know you must saying what are the settings.-2 gamma is not enough to get it done has to be drop to at least -4 leave top and bottom set at 0 in custom gamma and than play with other settings bring up contrast 68 or more to your srceen and set your black level with your brightness.make a memory slot name it and enjoy your hdr projector.




wtf are you serious? How do you make HDR look good when the UHD disc is mastered for 1000-4000 nits and in the mode you describe above you are probably doing around 120 bits brightness.

Post your settings please I want to test this.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

sorry heading out on my day off. i think you have 9 points leave top one and bottom set at 0 change others to -4 gamma.turn up your contrast i believe had mine set to 72? adjust your black level with brightness control your will not be the same as mine as i have a hp 2.8 screen. i have mine set above 56 or more? hdr1 will clip some high lights this can be offset by turning on hdr2 or super-white which will dim both ways i per fur to deal with a little clipping for spectacular picture color density.when i calibrate with calman i may post settings. on my panny player i have brightness set at -3 and contrast+3 hope this helps. natural mode is not needed as cinema mode is just a little less bright and you are getting full hdr 2020 color.


----------



## covsound1

Oledurt said:


> wtf are you serious? How do you make HDR look good when the UHD disc is mastered for 1000-4000 nits and in the mode you describe above you are probably doing around 120 bits brightness.
> 
> Post your settings please I want to test this.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


yes i am! how many tv sets really do 1000 nits more or less 4000? think out the box thats why we post.


----------



## Oledurt

covsound1 said:


> sorry heading out on my day off. i think you have 9 points leave top one and bottom set at 0 change others to -4 gamma.turn up your contrast i believe had mine set to 72? adjust your black level with brightness control your will not be the same as mine as i have a hp 2.8 screen. i have mine set above 56 or more? hdr1 will clip some high lights this can be offset by turning on hdr2 or super-white which will dim both ways i per fur to deal with a little clipping for spectacular picture color density.when i calibrate with calman i may post settings. on my panny player i have brightness set at -3 and contrast+3 hope this helps. natural mode is not needed as cinema mode is just a little less bright and you are getting full hdr 2020 color.




ok you have a high gain 2.8 screen that kind of makes sense


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

Oledurt said:


> ok you have a high gain 2.8 screen that kind of makes sense
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


i just got the elite 3d but before i put it up i wanted to get the most out of the hp. had it for years cleaned it two weeks ago and my picture got ugly. lost my blacks colors where not as dense but my room was less lit up and clarity went up 2X. funny how dirt gave me a good picture. to guess it may have been around 1.3 gain with a dull white now it may be a 1.6 gain and off white. after settings i like what i see now more than what i had before.blacks are deep colors are vibrant day time seen looks like real sun light.with that said the screen helps but not the reason for getting hdr out the box i may have to eat my words when i put up the elite 3d we will see.


----------



## panman40

covsound1 said:


> i just got the elite 3d but before i put it up i wanted to get the most out of the hp. had it for years cleaned it two weeks ago and my picture got ugly. lost my blacks colors where not as dense but my room was less lit up and clarity went up 2X. funny how dirt gave me a good picture. to guess it may have been around 1.3 gain with a dull white now it may be a 1.6 gain and off white. after settings i like what i see now more than what i had before.blacks are deep colors are vibrant day time seen looks like real sun light.with that said the screen helps but not the reason for getting hdr out the box i may have to eat my words when i put up the elite 3d we will see.


That's an awful lot of guess work there.. I've never had a dirty enough screen to guess its gain!.


----------



## migsta

*6040UB Picture*

I demo'd this projector at my dealer today. Used Deadpool as the source and the 4k UHD disc is simply amazing. Using the Bluray 1080p, was not really better than my 6010 to my eyes. I find that both the 6010 and that 6040UB look very bright/white at 1080p. It's nowhere near as rich or dynamic, much deeper blacks I guess, as it is with the UHD disc. Maybe something wasn't set right? Does HDR come into play with both 1080p and 4k or just one of them? At 4k, as this is the projector's big selling feature, it rocks. I'm worried about my cable but hopefully it will pass the signal should I pull the trigger on this projector. I have an Audioquest Cinnamon but about a 40 foot cable.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Smarty-pants said:


> Nope. The Epson 4040/5040/6040 are limited to 10.2 GBps input signals.
> Pretty much what you see on the the chart from the following link, is what your pj can display. (the 8.9 GBps signals in green)
> http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/HDMI_data_rates.png


Please dont flash that in here again. Its depressing for some of us, me included.  

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## Smarty-pants

hatlesschimp said:


> Please dont flash that in here again. Its depressing for some of us, me included.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


Lol, it's really not a horrible thing.
There are a lot more reasons why it's good to not need full 18 Gbps throughput, than it is to have it and deal with all the cable issues.
The only real downside would be 4K/*60* being limited to 4:2:0 8b, so no HDR there, but...
If streaming devices like Roku/Amazon/Chrome would just push 24 or 30 Hz, then that would be fine too, and it would also allow HDR as well. 
Remember optical UHD discs are also native 4K/24 4:2:0 10b (with 2K Blu-ray being 2K/24 4:2:0 8b).
Too bad the former isn't an approved HDMI specification, which makes no sense to me, but I'm no engineer.


----------



## Limp Fox

Some of these posts make me think I shouldn't pick up a 6040ub, but rather a straight 1080p from either Epson or one of it's competitors. Perhaps doing that and waiting a few more months/years until you can just calibrate and forget it like those before the 5040/6040's is best. Not to mention one would save some cash. At least around this price point. Who wants to sit there before each movie and tell the Kids or guest, "Hold on while I dial it in for "this" movie."

-A confused consumer


----------



## hatlesschimp

Smarty-pants said:


> Lol, it's really not a horrible thing.
> There are a lot more reasons why it's good to not need full 18 Gbps throughput, than it is to have it and deal with all the cable issues.
> The only real downside would be 4K/*60* being limited to 4:2:0 8b, so no HDR there, but...
> If streaming devices like Roku/Amazon/Chrome would just push 24 or 30 Hz, then that would be fine too, and it would also allow HDR as well.
> Remember optical UHD discs are also native 4K/24 4:2:0 10b (with 2K Blu-ray being 2K/24 4:2:0 8b).
> Too bad the former isn't an approved HDMI specification, which makes no sense to me, but I'm no engineer.


Just messing around lol. Doesnt bother me.


----------



## JewDaddy

Firmware


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

Just fired up the Denon AVR-S510BT with the epson 5040 and no go. Im on current firmware for both. 

Getting signal dropout on all devices. Getting pixel sparkling too when the video does briefly click in. 

Using 50' cable to Epson. The Denon output is HDCP 2.2 and going into Epson HDMI input 1 (HDCP 2.2) 

Shield TV - Fail 
XBX one - fail 
Direct TV - fail 

My Monoprice 4x1 Switch works perfect with all devices but does not send higher resolution than 1080p. 

Anyone have any ideas? Maybe my HDMI is too long?


----------



## JackOften

Evan201 said:


> Just fired up the Denon AVR-S510BT with the epson 5040 and no go. Im on current firmware for both.
> 
> Getting signal dropout on all devices.
> 
> Using 50' cable to Epson. The Denon output is HDCP 2.2 and going into Epson HDMI input 1 (HDCP 2.2)
> 
> Shield TV - Fail
> XBX one - fail
> Direct TV - fail
> 
> My Monoprice 4x1 Switch works perfect with all devices but does not send higher resolution than 1080p.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas? Maybe my HDMI is too long?


50' hdmi? yea, that could be it. I use HDbaseT for the same distance.


----------



## Evan201

JackOften said:


> 50' hdmi? yea, that could be it. I use HDbaseT for the same distance.


I have the ability to cut it down to 35' 
Would that be all I would need to do to get this running? 

What cable should I go with for optimal performance? 

Monoprice Cabernet or Luxe?
Blue Jeans?

When the 50' cable I have now is plugged directly into my Shield tv it does put out the higher resolution.


----------



## BRADH

Smarty-pants said:


> HDMI 2.0 is backward compatible, so you can run video from your older AVR to the 5040 (HDMI-1 input) no problem for 1080p and lower resolutions.



My current cable is 1.3. So will need to replace it. From monoprice Iam looking https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12735&seq=1&format=2 and https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024015&p_id=3658&seq=1&format=2 plus you said something about Bluejeanscable do you have a link for the one you think would work. 
I got think about what you said and a 10.2gb would cover the 6040 and it looks like the 18gb cable s are a hit and miss for a lot of people. 

Brad


----------



## covsound1

panman40 said:


> That's an awful lot of guess work there.. I've never had a dirty enough screen to guess its gain!.


amazing what years of neglect can do notice in all my guessing i never said it was 2.8 gain. i never thought it was when i first got the screen. my point was that the darker screen helped and when i took it away my picture went with it. thats the reason for wanting to try the elite 3d. did anyone try the gamma settings or is everyone stuck sdr?


----------



## Smarty-pants

Evan201 said:


> I have the ability to cut it down to 35'
> Would that be all I would need to do to get this running?
> 
> What cable should I go with for optimal performance?
> 
> Monoprice Cabernet or Luxe?
> Blue Jeans?
> 
> When the 50' cable I have now is plugged directly into my Shield tv it does put out the higher resolution.


50 FT is LONG! You won't get 4K/60/12b with a cable that long unless you buy the uber expensive Celerity Optical cable.
For the Epson projectors though, the input is limited to 10.2 Gbps anyway, so you technically don't need the best cable,
you just need one that passes the highest bandwidth that the Epson can accept.
Unless you want to go with the Celerity cable (to kind of future proof it), the Monoprice Cabernet or Luxe should work fine for the Epson.
IMHO, unless it's a huge PITA to replace it again down the road, I'd just put in a Monoprice cable for now.

Also, if you can do a shorter cable, then do so. The longer the cable is, the farther the signals have to travel and then the signals get weaker.


----------



## Smarty-pants

BRADH said:


> My current cable is 1.3. So will need to replace it. From monoprice Iam looking https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12735&seq=1&format=2 and https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024015&p_id=3658&seq=1&format=2 plus you said something about Bluejeanscable do you have a link for the one you think would work.
> I got think about what you said and a 10.2gb would cover the 6040 and it looks like the 18gb cable s are a hit and miss for a lot of people.
> 
> Brad


For a Monoprice cable that is longer than 25 ft, you need the Cabernet or the Luxe cables.
They won't handle the full 18 Gbps signals, but the Epsons won;t allow over 10.2 Gbps anyway, so they will work fine
for the current Epson projectors.

I'm sorry I don't have a link for the BJ cable. I just remember seeing a benchmark test showing that BJ had one that was 25 ft long
that passed all the tests for 18 Gbps signals. I know it costs about $100 too.
There are discussions in the HDMI forum here on AVS that will have a lot more information, and asking there will likely get you
the answers you need. I only mention the BJ cable, because you said "25 ft".
Almost all cables that will handle the full 18 Gbps signals are 20 ft or shorter (aside from optical HDMI cables),
so the BJ cable seems like it was a nice exception.

Heck there may be other exceptions out there too, but I don't follow the cable discussions closely since I don't currently
need a long cable that will do full 18 Gbps.
I also think this cable situation will change as time goes on. Cable manufacturers will figure out how to make better cables
for longer distances of 18 Gbps signals, and as they come to market, they will likely get cheaper too.
How long that takes though is anyone's guess.


----------



## BRADH

Smarty-pants said:


> For a Monoprice cable that is longer than 25 ft, you need the Cabernet or the Luxe cables.
> They won't handle the full 18 Gbps signals, but the Epsons won;t allow over 10.2 Gbps anyway, so they will work fine
> for the current Epson projectors.
> 
> I'm sorry I don't have a link for the BJ cable. I just remember seeing a benchmark test showing that BJ had one that was 25 ft long
> that passed all the tests for 18 Gbps signals. I know it costs about $100 too.
> There are discussions in the HDMI forum here on AVS that will have a lot more information, and asking there will likely get you
> the answers you need. I only mention the BJ cable, because you said "25 ft".
> Almost all cables that will handle the full 18 Gbps signals are 20 ft or shorter (aside from optical HDMI cables),
> so the BJ cable seems like it was a nice exception.
> 
> Heck there may be other exceptions out there too, but I don't follow the cable discussions closely since I don't currently
> need a long cable that will do full 18 Gbps.
> I also think this cable situation will change as time goes on. Cable manufacturers will figure out how to make better cables
> for longer distances of 18 Gbps signals, and as they come to market, they will likely get cheaper too.
> How long that takes though is anyone's guess.


I really appreciate all the help. I might just go with option 2 it's not active it supports 10.2gb. It should do the trick for 6040. In a few years Epson or someone will have a 4K projector for the same price as the 5040/6040 and maybe UHD will be under control. 

Brad


----------



## Ronman79

hatlesschimp said:


> Please dont flash that in here again. Its depressing for some of us, me included.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


Love your videos chimp, and think the 5040/6040 is a great projector, especially for the money. Heck, I've been on the fence between them and the JVCs..... With the above in mind, and the fact that JVC just released the new models with low gaming lag, I think I'm gonna go that route. Then again, I've had the unfortunate luxury of not being ready to purchase with my renovation not started yet. The lack of 18gbps only is an issue really with HDR streaming services, so far.....

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## clhug

I'm getting the 5040ube. I'll need a new 4k Blu-ray player to go with it. I know the Philips BDP7501 works well with these projectors, and it's at $200 right now, so that will likely be what I go with, but...

I wanted to ask for clarification about either the X-Box One S or the PlayStation 4. I know there are HDR issues with both of these and the 5040, but are those HDR issues even when playing 4k HDR Blu-ray discs (which I believe most if not all are the 24p), or are the issues just with the 60p stuff (which I believe is mostly gaming related)?

If the 5040 will work properly for HDR on Blu-ray discs played with either the X-Box One S or PS 4, I might get one of them instead of a dedicated 4k Blu-ray player. I can live without the HDR for gaming as long at HDR works for playing 4k HDR Blu-ray movies. But if HDR doesn't work with either of these even for Blu-ray movies, then I'll go with the Philips.

Thank you!


----------



## hatlesschimp

Ronman79 said:


> Love your videos chimp, and think the 5040/6040 is a great projector, especially for the money. Heck, I've been on the fence between them and the JVCs..... With the above in mind, and the fact that JVC just released the new models with low gaming lag, I think I'm gonna go that route. Then again, I've had the unfortunate luxury of not being ready to purchase with my renovation not started yet. The lack of 18gbps only is an issue really with HDR streaming services, so far.....
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


Yeah you will love the JVC. Only slight thing is the input source switch time. But tge blacks are great!

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

hatlesschimp said:


> Yeah you will love the JVC. Only slight thing is the input source switch time. But tge blacks are great!
> 
> Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


Fence talk again.... What made you go with the Epson? I know that when you bought (as I was thinking) it was the "best" with low lag for gaming. I think that issue being resolved now, the 18gbps issue, and the fact that msrp is NOT for what these things can be bought... I'll go with JVC. No flames needed. I've followed this thread closely because it was high on my list, and is what seems to be a great projector....

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Ronman79 said:


> Fence talk again.... What made you go with the Epson? I know that when you bought (as I was thinking) it was the "best" with low lag for gaming. I think that issue being resolved now, the 18gbps issue, and the fact that msrp is NOT for what these things can be bought... I'll go with JVC. No flames needed. I've followed this thread closely because it was high on my list, and is what seems to be a great projector....
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


The JVC is great was only saying the only knock on x7000 & x9000 (and new models) is the input switching time is a pain in the butt. But once you start watching a movie its not even an issue and some will not even notice or care about it. For me it was because Im a fidgeter, im always changing things and messing with stuff when I shouldnt. Also if you are splitting hairs for input lag the 9300 still wins by 25 percent less input lag. But most wont see it. Most that do will notice with a keyboard and mouse with FPS. The 9300 comes in feeling like the same as a standard VA panel 1440p / 4k monitor for input lag.
But JVC blacks are amazing. Its not a myth and there are a lot better quality parts in it. And in saying that the lamp price is a downer too on the JVC with them coming in around $500+ per unit vs $150. And to me the x5000 and probably the new version are not worth it to me but x7000 and x9000 certainly are. If the x7500 was priced the same as the 9300 then all of us would be over in the JVC thread and this thread would be barron. By the end of the year the 9300 will be priced very nicely and will be hard to pass up as a bang for buck option when compared. Heck I nearly bought a 9200 the other day for my father in law knowing he would be more than happy with what it has to offer. It was so cheap - maybe something wrong with it lol. 

I think we projector enthusiasts should be happy with what we have on offer. It wasnt long ago 720p was the standard for a good projector. And its great that us gamers have windged about input lag and hdr on projectors and Tvs and the manufacturers are listening and fixing things. Who knows what projector thread we will all be in in a few years time - a laser 8k beast perhaps? 😀


----------



## shin_iori

covsound1 said:


> amazing what years of neglect can do notice in all my guessing i never said it was 2.8 gain. i never thought it was when i first got the screen. my point was that the darker screen helped and when i took it away my picture went with it. thats the reason for wanting to try the elite 3d. did anyone try the gamma settings or is everyone stuck sdr?


hi

can you post your complete setting ? and your custom gamma curve ?
thanks in advance.


----------



## covsound1

shin_iori said:


> hi
> 
> can you post your complete setting ? and your custom gamma curve ?
> thanks in advance.


sorry was trying to find a one all be all gamma curve for hdr. thought i hit gold loading revenant followed ninja turtles and deepwater water horizon but all went down the can watching goodfellas and found myself making adjustments as the picture was unwatchable. maybe goodfelles is just a bad hdr? the setting was gamma -4 for all except top and bottom and adjust contrast up by 10 to 15 and brightness to first change in black level.color +6. nothing is calibrated about this as you adjust.


----------



## EL Duke

There seem to be some bogie disks out there for sure when viewing on this pj. Exodus springs to mind. My settings Ive narrowed down to work on most disks Ive tried. All I need to switch between is hdr 1 and 2. I find I use hdr2 more though. 1 can really blow highlights out fast


----------



## migsta

*What To Do?*

Now I'm not so sure it's worth upgrading form the 6010 to the 6040UB, maybe better wait for the next model? Or, maybe go with the JVC X550R or simply go to the next level of JVC X750R or Epson LS10500. Anybody really happy that moved from a 6010 to the 6040UB and can say it's really worth it?

Does HDR play with both 1080p and 4k UHD discs or just one of the two? But HDR is not really worth using because the projector is not bright enough? Confused?


----------



## EL Duke

After more playing about these are my hdr settings. These are simply done by eye so its my tastes but I find they work fine on the majority of the disks Ive played. I generally stick with hdr 2 and only really use hdr 1 occasionally. If you are using hdr1 u have to tame some of these settings our your highlights are gonna be blown way off.
Cinema, brightness 75, contrast 70, color sat 58 colour temp 3 or 4, image enchan 3.
Gamma customised -9 -2 -1 3 3 1 2 0 0.
Power medium, epson super white on. Lens iris -5.
Disks ive played over the last few days include. Xmen apocalypse, oblivion, suicide squad, BvS, man of steel, deepwater horizon, everest, the shallows, tmnt, star trek intp darkness, tarzan.
The disk that really didnt seems to work was exodus. Needed alot of tweaking. Mag 7 was also abit of a pain to dial in


----------



## EL Duke

Overall though Im really impressed with what this projector can put out. Apart from some tinkering in hdr mode blurays look amazing. Xbox and ps4 again have been very impressive. Coming from a sony hw40 I couldn't be happier


----------



## EL Duke

My neighbour is currently out so I am a little bit louder than usual. Ive upped the power to high and watching oblivion and the pic is great. So if you can get away with having the projector running in high whislt in hdr mode do it.


----------



## Boldlygo

I did and I don't regret it. Much better picture - HDR not so much. But the advantage of power zooming and lens shifting with memory settings is fantastic. This projector was a major factor in deciding to upgrade my screen from 110" 16x9 to 125" 2.35:1. Then I upgraded my OPPO from the BDP-103D to the UDP-203. Even though the 4K discs are not that much better than the BD in picture quality on the Epson, some of the 4K discs have Dolby Atmos when the BD doesn't. 






migsta said:


> Now I'm not so sure it's worth upgrading form the 6010 to the 6040UB, maybe better wait for the next model? Or, maybe go with the JVC X550R or simply go to the next level of JVC X750R or Epson LS10500. Anybody really happy that moved from a 6010 to the 6040UB and can say it's really worth it?
> 
> Does HDR play with both 1080p and 4k UHD discs or just one of the two? But HDR is not really worth using because the projector is not bright enough? Confused?


----------



## covsound1

EL Duke said:


> Overall though Im really impressed with what this projector can put out. Apart from some tinkering in hdr mode blurays look amazing. Xbox and ps4 again have been very impressive. Coming from a sony hw40 I couldn't be happier


also coming from hw40 still very pleased with the wow factor of this pj.what we have is four camps of hdr movies low gamma high gamma and movies like pacific rim that need no help at all,and movies like goodfellows that should be striped to sdr or never be allowed to be sold! i agree with you hdr movies that fall into the first 3 camps look amazing.


----------



## john barlow

EL Duke said:


> Yeah couldn't agree more, you could play about with settings with every different film. Ive tried about half the uhds of what I have so far and the settings I posted get me in the ball park but I always play about depending on the film. For me I try and get a good outdoor scene and play about with brighness/contrast. Deadpool, the martian and oblivion for example have great scenes where if your brigness or contrast are ot the skyline will just be white mess so dial down till thoughs cloud start appearing or vise versa.
> I took a couple pics of suicide squad on uhd and bluray to compare and even though it can be quite a dark film the uhd to me still outdoes the bluray. The lighting itself just looks so much better and natural. I cant seem to post pics using mobile however.
> When oppo fix the hdr to sdr conversion on their player I might see how that works out.
> Overall though I do still like what the projector can output. For the price its an absolute bargain


I felt Suicide Squad emitted a great HDR picture. In fact, I thought it was amazing.


----------



## DanGraney

Smarty-pants said:


> 50 FT is LONG! You won't get 4K/60/12b with a cable that long unless you buy the uber expensive Celerity Optical cable.
> 
> For the Epson projectors though, the input is limited to 10.2 Gbps anyway, so you technically don't need the best cable,
> 
> you just need one that passes the highest bandwidth that the Epson can accept.
> 
> Unless you want to go with the Celerity cable (to kind of future proof it), the Monoprice Cabernet or Luxe should work fine for the Epson.
> 
> IMHO, unless it's a huge PITA to replace it again down the road, I'd just put in a Monoprice cable for now.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, if you can do a shorter cable, then do so. The longer the cable is, the farther the signals have to travel and then the signals get weaker.




I bought the 50' Bugubird cable from Amazon and have had no issues. My 2 cents. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## rogermoore123

clhug said:


> I wanted to ask for clarification about either the X-Box One S or the PlayStation 4. I know there are HDR issues with both of these and the 5040, but are those HDR issues even when playing 4k HDR Blu-ray discs (which I believe most if not all are the 24p), or are the issues just with the 60p stuff (which I believe is mostly gaming related)?
> 
> If the 5040 will work properly for HDR on Blu-ray discs played with either the X-Box One S or PS 4, I might get one of them instead of a dedicated 4k Blu-ray player. I can live without the HDR for gaming as long at HDR works for playing 4k HDR Blu-ray movies. But if HDR doesn't work with either of these even for Blu-ray movies, then I'll go with the Philips.
> 
> Thank you!


The PS4 and PS4Pro does not have a UHD bluray player.
The only HDR you should be able to get is 1080p on new games.
It will stream 4k but with no HDR at the moment because providers are sending 60p.


----------



## rogermoore123

hatlesschimp said:


> Yeah you will love the JVC. Only slight thing is the input source switch time. But tge blacks are great!
> 
> Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


Also the 5000/5500 does not do the full DCI p3 like the two higher models and the Epson.


----------



## achanonier

covsound1 said:


> sorry heading out on my day off. i think you have 9 points leave top one and bottom set at 0 change others to -4 gamma.turn up your contrast i believe had mine set to 72? adjust your black level with brightness control your will not be the same as mine as i have a hp 2.8 screen. i have mine set above 56 or more? hdr1 will clip some high lights this can be offset by turning on hdr2 or super-white which will dim both ways i per fur to deal with a little clipping for spectacular picture color density.when i calibrate with calman i may post settings. on my panny player i have brightness set at -3 and contrast+3 hope this helps. natural mode is not needed as cinema mode is just a little less bright and you are getting full hdr 2020 color.


Doesn't that totaly clips highlights ? in my epxerience HDR1 alone already clips a lot of the highlights and then you also set contrast to 72??

When I use HDR1 I set Superwhite to one in order to get the highlights corrrect. Even the If I push contrast to anything above 55 I get clipped highlights. I usually check with some skies from Deadpool and the second chapter from Pacific Rim when they biuld the walls...


----------



## covsound1

achanonier said:


> Doesn't that totaly clips highlights ? in my epxerience HDR1 alone already clips a lot of the highlights and then you also set contrast to 72??
> 
> When I use HDR1 I set Superwhite to one in order to get the highlights corrrect. Even the If I push contrast to anything above 55 I get clipped highlights. I usually check with some skies from Deadpool and the second chapter from Pacific Rim when they biuld the walls...


yes i have notice that on other movies.and it is not not a good trade off.had to turn on super white.pacific rim defaults to hdr3 and needs no help.i played with el duke curves with the battleship release hdr2 looked good but now skies a little too burned in now.yes i agree gamma curves need to be set with a 55 to 60 contrast limit.


----------



## clhug

rogermoore123 said:


> clhug said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to ask for clarification about either the X-Box One S or the PlayStation 4. I know there are HDR issues with both of these and the 5040, but are those HDR issues even when playing 4k HDR Blu-ray discs (which I believe most if not all are the 24p), or are the issues just with the 60p stuff (which I believe is mostly gaming related)?
> If the 5040 will work properly for HDR on Blu-ray discs played with either the X-Box One S or PS 4, I might get one of them instead of a dedicated 4k Blu-ray player. I can live without the HDR for gaming as long at HDR works for playing 4k HDR Blu-ray movies. But if HDR doesn't work with either of these even for Blu-ray movies, then I'll go with the Philips.
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> The PS4 and PS4Pro does not have a UHD bluray player.
> The only HDR you should be able to get is 1080p on new games.
> It will stream 4k but with no HDR at the moment because providers are sending 60p.
Click to expand...

Thank you.

After I posted the original message I did some additional research and determined what you said. I also found out that although the X-Box One S does do 4k HDR Blu-ray, it does not do Dolby Atmos or DTS:X. So I'm sticking with the Philips 4k Blu-ray player.

I would still be interested to know though if the 5040 can display 4k HDR Blu-ray from the X-Box One S, or if it doesn't even work for Blu-ray. (I know it doesn't work for game content.)

Thanks again!


----------



## dholmes54

So what you guys are saying most 4k movies are too dark,so you have to switch between HDR 1-2 & sometime SDR,also the gama settings are strange to me it being a graph like,I'm use to setting 1.8,2.2 & 2 a little confusing.


----------



## knucklehd

*My ECO HDR2 and SDR Digital Cinema settings*

What currently works for me ITD (I Tweak Daily) 
I have been wanting to post my settings for a couple of weeks, finally here they are and I would like to here if they help anyone to maintain ECO mode and HDR2

GOAL: I only want ECO mode due to fan noise and extra heat not wanted in my Theater
Thanks to others for their settings, some which I built from. 
* I do not want to use Natural for filter reasons, it's also noisier and uses more power. 
* I did not want to use HDR 1
I have 664 hours on my bulb. I have a dark, light controlled theater room with a custom painted wall 128", no screen.
I don't expect these setting to work perfect for you, however, give them a try and learn what to adjust in your room/movie situation. 
HDR is certainly not one size fits all!
I did not want to force any of bt2020 or HDR modes, I leave all settings on auto which allows me to not have to switch color modes in menus of disc screens etc.

Set while using my Samsung UHD 8500 player and my Onkyo TX-NR656 receiver.
HDR mode 2 (auto for most)
Color Mode: Digital Cinema
Brightness:57
Contrast: 60
Color saturation: 60
Tint: 50
Skin tone: 3
Epson super white: Off - personal, see what works for you and dependent on movie sometimes and clipping 
Lens Iris - personal setting. I like -8 to -11 with Auto Iris off if quiet movie, else Normal (auto iris sounds like a hard drive scanning)  
I generally use image enhance 3

Custom gamma curve from left to right 0,9,21,25,28,29,25,17,0

Try the above first without messing with below, but my settings carried over from sdr color temp customized are: 
Customized Color temp
Gain Red: 66
Gain Green: 61
Gain Blue: 59

Also under image > advanced > RGBCMY, you can add some more color, usually without penalty
for all R


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs


----------



## Evan201

Smarty-pants said:


> 50 FT is LONG! You won't get 4K/60/12b with a cable that long unless you buy the uber expensive Celerity Optical cable.
> For the Epson projectors though, the input is limited to 10.2 Gbps anyway, so you technically don't need the best cable,
> you just need one that passes the highest bandwidth that the Epson can accept.
> Unless you want to go with the Celerity cable (to kind of future proof it), the Monoprice Cabernet or Luxe should work fine for the Epson.
> IMHO, unless it's a huge PITA to replace it again down the road, I'd just put in a Monoprice cable for now.
> 
> Also, if you can do a shorter cable, then do so. The longer the cable is, the farther the signals have to travel and then the signals get weaker.


Thanks for the response. For a test I decided to hook up my Denon AVR-S510BT to the Epson 5040ub with a 6 foot Amazon Basic cable in HDMI input 1 HDCP 2.2 and ran the Shield TV into the Denon. 
This setup did pass the higher resolution just fine with no signal loss. So I guess I'm going to go ahead and get the Luxe cable in 35' to see if that holds up properly for my living room configuration. 

Thanks again to everyone for the help. I really don't want to have to buy another $300 device to get my system up and running reliably so hoping this Luxe cable takes care of business. I'll report back when I receive it.


----------



## migsta

*JVC over Epson*

Maybe this is just a standard coined sales pitch from a salesman, and you've probably heard it, but here is one salesman's point of view as to why the JVC X550RB is better than the 6040UB/5040UB. Any thoughts/comments?

"We have had the 6040UB in action in our demo room for a while now, and can confirm that the image quality has increased only slightly vs the 6030UB, and the contrast ratio is still just as poor. In other words, the 6040UB suffers from the same problem vs the JVC that the 6030UB did, except now it’s almost twice as expensive. The JVC X550RB actual measured native contrast is roughly 5.8x better than the 6040UB – we do a lot of ISF projector calibrations and we have measured contrasts with a top of the line colorimeter, so this is not a theoretical number, your contrast is literally going to be 5.8x higher on the JVC. This is a revolutionary difference and it’s easily seen to the naked eye. The 4K enhancement is a lot better on the JVC as well (due to primarily JVC being the company that made this innovation back in 2012, and is now on its 4th iteration of the enhancement which each iteration having gotten a lot better, whereas Epson is now late to the game and only now has their first version). So when you stack the JVC’s 5.8x better native contrast, sharper pixel structure, as well as much better 4K enhancement, the image is a whole lot better on the JVC X550RB. In summary, the X550RB is going to cost you a lot less money, and give you better overall performance. The difference is just really easy to see when you see the two projectors side by side. People who have come to the demo room have been blown away at how much better the JVC’s performance is compared to the 6040UB. If you are in the area, you’re welcome to come in and see the difference for yourself, but either way, I guarantee you that you will be a lot happier with the JVC than with the Epson in every single way."


----------



## BMac1203

migsta said:


> Maybe this is just a standard coined sales pitch from a salesman, and you've probably heard it, but here is one salesman's point of view as to why the JVC X550RB is better than the 6040UB/5040UB. Any thoughts/comments?
> 
> "We have had the 6040UB in action in our demo room for a while now, and can confirm that the image quality has increased only slightly vs the 6030UB, and the contrast ratio is still just as poor. In other words, the 6040UB suffers from the same problem vs the JVC that the 6030UB did, except now it’s almost twice as expensive. The JVC X550RB actual measured native contrast is roughly 5.8x better than the 6040UB – we do a lot of ISF projector calibrations and we have measured contrasts with a top of the line colorimeter, so this is not a theoretical number, your contrast is literally going to be 5.8x higher on the JVC. This is a revolutionary difference and it’s easily seen to the naked eye. The 4K enhancement is a lot better on the JVC as well (due to primarily JVC being the company that made this innovation back in 2012, and is now on its 4th iteration of the enhancement which each iteration having gotten a lot better, whereas Epson is now late to the game and only now has their first version). So when you stack the JVC’s 5.8x better native contrast, sharper pixel structure, as well as much better 4K enhancement, the image is a whole lot better on the JVC X550RB. In summary, the X550RB is going to cost you a lot less money, and give you better overall performance. The difference is just really easy to see when you see the two projectors side by side. People who have come to the demo room have been blown away at how much better the JVC’s performance is compared to the 6040UB. If you are in the area, you’re welcome to come in and see the difference for yourself, but either way, I guarantee you that you will be a lot happier with the JVC than with the Epson in every single way."


Interesting that you bring this up.

My wife and I were just at Magnolia yesterday and had a chance to demo the Sony 65es, Epson 6040 and JVC RS400 (x550r). We viewed them in that order, over and over with the same BD content (X-Men First Class in 1080).

Unfortunately, the way that Magnolia has their store set up is that each projector is in a completely different room with completely different lighting (& sometimes ambient light) and with not only different screen vendors, but sizes and materials, as well.

We saw:
Sony 65es @ ~14' throw onto a 100" SI Series 1 white screen in a completely dark room
Epson 6040 @ ~12' throw onto a 100" Stewart Firehawk ALR screen with minor ambient light (solar shades)
JVC x550r @ ~14/16' throw onto an SI Series 3 white screen w/no control over ambient light (store overhead lights coming through an open doorway in the "living room" setup)

We were told that each of the projectors were in cinema mode on high lamp mode, but they couldn't find the remotes to confirm on either the Epson or JVC.

Unfortunately, I could go on and on about the differences in picture, contrast, sharpness and color, but due to not knowing the hours on the bulb, the differences in screens, ambient light, etc. we left more confused than when we entered.

Ultimately - I placed an order with a dealer on this site this morning for a JVC rs420. Why? The 2017 model has the low input lag for gaming; Every dealer and friend that I spoke with told me I'd have buyer's remorse with the 6040. The reviews and threads that I've read haven't put it that bluntly; it really does appear to be a toss-up between the two. I continued to lean towards the Epson, mainly for the picture brightness and inclusion of mount and extra bulb in the price, but was able to pick up the JVC for a deal that I couldn't pass up. 

I'm sure they're both great projectors once calibrated and I don't envy anyone else making this decision  If you want to follow my findings with how the rs420 is - check out the rs420 owner's thread in a week or two. :grin:

Unless these 2 are side by side I think they're both a great choice.


----------



## covsound1

migsta said:


> Maybe this is just a standard coined sales pitch from a salesman, and you've probably heard it, but here is one salesman's point of view as to why the JVC X550RB is better than the 6040UB/5040UB. Any thoughts/comments?
> 
> "We have had the 6040UB in action in our demo room for a while now, and can confirm that the image quality has increased only slightly vs the 6030UB, and the contrast ratio is still just as poor. In other words, the 6040UB suffers from the same problem vs the JVC that the 6030UB did, except now it’s almost twice as expensive. The JVC X550RB actual measured native contrast is roughly 5.8x better than the 6040UB – we do a lot of ISF projector calibrations and we have measured contrasts with a top of the line colorimeter, so this is not a theoretical number, your contrast is literally going to be 5.8x higher on the JVC. This is a revolutionary difference and it’s easily seen to the naked eye. The 4K enhancement is a lot better on the JVC as well (due to primarily JVC being the company that made this innovation back in 2012, and is now on its 4th iteration of the enhancement which each iteration having gotten a lot better, whereas Epson is now late to the game and only now has their first version). So when you stack the JVC’s 5.8x better native contrast, sharper pixel structure, as well as much better 4K enhancement, the image is a whole lot better on the JVC X550RB. In summary, the X550RB is going to cost you a lot less money, and give you better overall performance. The difference is just really easy to see when you see the two projectors side by side. People who have come to the demo room have been blown away at how much better the JVC’s performance is compared to the 6040UB. If you are in the area, you’re welcome to come in and see the difference for yourself, but either way, I guarantee you that you will be a lot happier with the JVC than with the Epson in every single way."


please do the demo and tell us what you think.the new one is the 420rs about 4000$.very happy with the epson would do it again in the 1080 forum.


----------



## EL Duke

Is there a fix for the lens memory? I have my 16.9 setting as 1 and for 2 I lower the screen when watching anything widescreen ao it sits on the bottom of my picture frame screen. Setting 1 works fine. Setting 2 however is a real pain in the ass. First time I press it it will sink a good inch lower than it should. Press the bottom again and it goes to the correct spot. It is always taking 2 presses of the botton to get it right. Have tried deleting and saving the setting again but no luck.


----------



## imapfsr

imapfsr said:


> I wouldn't worry too much. Epson really has been great (amazing actually) and I think it may be a batch that were sent to Canada that are having the issues. None the less, if this one does the same I don't know what I'm going to do.


So I received the 5th 5040 and I am afraid to say it has the same issue. Solid lit orange and blue light indicating iris issues. I have a feeling that Epson are going to offer me a refund as they dont want to keep sending these out. The last comment was that it was very strange to be having the same issue for one person (which I kinda think is strange myself) and they are hinting at a environmental issue which I think is even more strange. I had the Epson HC2040 for the last 1.5 years previous to this projector using the exact same set up (Pioneer VSX1130)except for the HDMI cable as I purchased an 18gb ready (even though it really isnt needed) so I cannot see what the issue may be. Anyone else ever hear of anything like this happening before. I already shut off the Apple TV setting that may have been shutting things down so I am stumped. I really dont want to give my projector back but I want one that works.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## seplant

migsta said:


> Now I'm not so sure it's worth upgrading form the 6010 to the 6040UB, maybe better wait for the next model? Or, maybe go with the JVC X550R or simply go to the next level of JVC X750R or Epson LS10500. Anybody really happy that moved from a 6010 to the 6040UB and can say it's really worth it?
> 
> Does HDR play with both 1080p and 4k UHD discs or just one of the two? But HDR is not really worth using because the projector is not bright enough? Confused?





Boldlygo said:


> I did and I don't regret it. Much better picture - HDR not so much. But the advantage of power zooming and lens shifting with memory settings is fantastic. This projector was a major factor in deciding to upgrade my screen from 110" 16x9 to 125" 2.35:1. Then I upgraded my OPPO from the BDP-103D to the UDP-203. Even though the 4K discs are not that much better than the BD in picture quality on the Epson, some of the 4K discs have Dolby Atmos when the BD doesn't.


I went from a 6010 to a 6040. At first, I was regretting the decision, but the more I watch the 6040 and the more I get the settings dialed in, the more I am impressed with it. I think also, the lamp needed some hours on it. The detail that this thing brings out on standard blu-rays is amazing. Plus the 3D is much more impressive on the 6040 than it is on the 6010, with a brighter image and better 3D effect to my eyes, although some 3D blu-rays seem to be prone to crosstalk more so on this projector. The lens memory feature on the 6040 has me working towards switching from a 110" 16x9 screen to a 120" 2.35:1 AT screen. I bought a Philips UHD Blu-ray player, but to be honest, I wasn't impressed, so I returned it. I have a large blu-ray collection, and the fact that UHD discs are only marginally better than their standard blu-rays on this projector did not convince me to start investing in UHD blu-rays. That plus the fact that HDR on this projector is just not ready for prime-time and it appears that Epson is not even considering making any improvements to the HDR settings.

I was able to sell my 6010 for a decent price, so that helped. I'm now enjoying the improved picture quality on all my blu-rays, the improved 3D ability, and looking forward to being able to have a constant-height screen setup. I'm sure if someone comes out soon with a sub-$4,000 native 4K projector that has 3x the lumens to be able to do HDR properly plus lens memory, I'll be kicking myself for not waiting. But I kinda doubt it!


----------



## knucklehd

EL Duke said:


> Is there a fix for the lens memory? I have my 16.9 setting as 1 and for 2 I lower the screen when watching anything widescreen ao it sits on the bottom of my picture frame screen. Setting 1 works fine. Setting 2 however is a real pain in the ass. First time I press it it will sink a good inch lower than it should. Press the bottom again and it goes to the correct spot. It is always taking 2 presses of the botton to get it right. Have tried deleting and saving the setting again but no luck.



Answer (along with tons of other good info) is also located in Seplant's 
Mini wiki 

LENS memory settings guide


----------



## welldun

Would those of you who have had the 5040 or 6040 professionally calibrated please give us your honest assessment of the picture quality of 4life HDR after the HDR calibration? Especially how it compares to the calibrated the standard 1080p Blu-ray with 4K enhancement and SDR. In a previous post I gave my opinion that the standard Blu-rays when you add 4K enhancement look superb even when compared to the quality of the 4K BluRay that I tested it against on the Samsung ubd-k8500. However I had not calibrated the projector for HDR so my assesment miggt not be 100% accurate because it was based on an uncalibrated HDR setting. In the last few post I've seen some positive feedback about the HDR quality, so I'd like to hear from those who had a professional calibration done.


----------



## bluer101

I'm a complete idiot. 

After recieving my second 5040 I redid the panel alignment. The way I thought to do the alignment is to turn it on and do all the adjustments. Then click it off to set it. But did not realize that was wrong. 

So after figuring it out I can say that it made a big improvement on the picture and especially on text.


----------



## sddp

DirectTV or Dish?


When I ordered Dish a few years ago, I had SPECIFICALLY asked if they had 1080P and was told yes. So after the install, I checked info on the screen and it showed 1080i. I was kinda bummed and the installer told me they don't offer 1080P. This was on a Mitsubishi 92" and so I only watched news and simple shows that I didn't care for if it wasn't in P and avoided any movies as I'd buy them on Blu-Ray. 


Fast forward to the superbowl and having the 5040ube on a 150" Elite 3D. 
I could see all kinds of aliasing/pixelating everywhere. The grass looked like small pixels all over the screen, the half time had banding all over. The fire on Gaga was not smooth. Players running wasn't smooth at all and annoying. Don't get me wrong, it was a great experience over all, but NOTHING compared to a Blu Ray movie in any shape or form. So I am planning on switching.
Now I am sure ya'll know cable service providers are just like car dealerships and will say ANYTHING for a sale. I've called DirectTV a few times and asked them do you offer 1080P (don't really care about the compression, since it is what it is) and every time they say yes and some channels are 4K.


I don't want to go through with a new dish install on the roof and cabling, new contract, etc just to find out... oh no we don't have 1080P, just "i"


Does anyone here know if Direct is actually true 1080P delivered to the home?
at 150" every little detail is pretty obvious.


Thanks


----------



## bluer101

Only a few pay per view I believe in 1080p. The rest is 1080i and 720p. 

I have the 5040ub and DTV is nothing like blu ray.


----------



## LumensLover

No excuse for $500 lamps from JVC. Price gouging in it's worst form. Not everyone is using a projector as a toy only to be dusted off once a week for viewing.

Some of us love our projectors and use them on a daily basis.


----------



## Smarty-pants

^ I agree on the lamp pricing. They should all be $100 and even then they are making a decent profit.


----------



## Smarty-pants

sddp said:


> DirectTV or Dish?
> 
> 
> When I ordered Dish a few years ago, I had SPECIFICALLY asked if they had 1080P and was told yes. So after the install, I checked info on the screen and it showed 1080i. I was kinda bummed and the installer told me they don't offer 1080P. This was on a Mitsubishi 92" and so I only watched news and simple shows that I didn't care for if it wasn't in P and avoided any movies as I'd buy them on Blu-Ray.
> 
> 
> Fast forward to the superbowl and having the 5040ube on a 150" Elite 3D.
> I could see all kinds of aliasing/pixelating everywhere. The grass looked like small pixels all over the screen, the half time had banding all over. The fire on Gaga was not smooth. Players running wasn't smooth at all and annoying. Don't get me wrong, it was a great experience over all, but NOTHING compared to a Blu Ray movie in any shape or form. So I am planning on switching.
> Now I am sure ya'll know cable service providers are just like car dealerships and will say ANYTHING for a sale. I've called DirectTV a few times and asked them do you offer 1080P (don't really care about the compression, since it is what it is) and every time they say yes and some channels are 4K.
> 
> 
> I don't want to go through with a new dish install on the roof and cabling, new contract, etc just to find out... oh no we don't have 1080P, just "i"
> 
> 
> Does anyone here know if Direct is actually true 1080P delivered to the home?
> at 150" every little detail is pretty obvious.
> 
> 
> Thanks


Like someone else said, only 1080p on some pay per view stuff, and they offer 4K on like 3 or 4 channels,
but you have to have special boxes and pay more for it and not worth the price IMO.

99% of everything is 1080i or 720p and good grief, it's not even close to Blu-ray, and you are lucky if 5% of it looks as good as DVD.
Compression artifacting all over the place and looks the same as cable tv, which is barely tolerable IMO.
This type of viewing entertainment should be seen for the content, not the PQ.


----------



## panman40

migsta said:


> Maybe this is just a standard coined sales pitch from a salesman, and you've probably heard it, but here is one salesman's point of view as to why the JVC X550RB is better than the 6040UB/5040UB. Any thoughts/comments?
> 
> "We have had the 6040UB in action in our demo room for a while now, and can confirm that the image quality has increased only slightly vs the 6030UB, and the contrast ratio is still just as poor. In other words, the 6040UB suffers from the same problem vs the JVC that the 6030UB did, except now it’s almost twice as expensive. The JVC X550RB actual measured native contrast is roughly 5.8x better than the 6040UB – we do a lot of ISF projector calibrations and we have measured contrasts with a top of the line colorimeter, so this is not a theoretical number, your contrast is literally going to be 5.8x higher on the JVC. This is a revolutionary difference and it’s easily seen to the naked eye. The 4K enhancement is a lot better on the JVC as well (due to primarily JVC being the company that made this innovation back in 2012, and is now on its 4th iteration of the enhancement which each iteration having gotten a lot better, whereas Epson is now late to the game and only now has their first version). So when you stack the JVC’s 5.8x better native contrast, sharper pixel structure, as well as much better 4K enhancement, the image is a whole lot better on the JVC X550RB. In summary, the X550RB is going to cost you a lot less money, and give you better overall performance. The difference is just really easy to see when you see the two projectors side by side. People who have come to the demo room have been blown away at how much better the JVC’s performance is compared to the 6040UB. If you are in the area, you’re welcome to come in and see the difference for yourself, but either way, I guarantee you that you will be a lot happier with the JVC than with the Epson in every single way."


I've never had a jvc due to cost, my last projector was a Sony hw65es, I recently went with the TW9300W in the uk. First impressions were pretty poor to be honest, I DIY calibrate and used the same kit I've always had, same screen / room etc. The best black level I could get was 0.006ftl and this resulted in an on/off CR of just 3300:1. My Sony was 0.003ftl with a CR of 5800:1. This could be seen clearly in content and blacks were weak and made worse with the grey scope movie bars on my 16:9 screen. Very dissapointing indeed.

Not really knowing what to do I just carried on watching pretty unhappy. I now have around 50 hrs on it and did a re cal last week and found black had dropped to 0.004ftl with a CR of 4000:1, an improvement, I also used custom gamma to get a flat 2.4 gamma curve right from 10% ire, this seems to have further improved 'perceived' black level without to much clipping.

It cost me £1050 uk to upgrade from my 1 yr old Sony ( taken as part exchange) and I had to borrow most of that, if the X5500 jvc was the same price I would have gone for that without doubt even factoring in the lamp price which here in the uk is £500 with the Epson at £300. I wish I could get a spare Epson lamp for the $150 that it seems to be in the USA!.

So for me it's been a bit of a bumpy ride especially as I had 2 complete shut downs with the lamp led flashing and high fan noise.

I had thought to see if I could return it and get my Sony back but as it seems to have gotten better after a few hrs and the fact 3D is better than Sonys I'm going to keep it and hopefully it will improve further and behave!.


----------



## achanonier

covsound1 said:


> yes i have notice that on other movies.and it is not not a good trade off.had to turn on super white.pacific rim defaults to hdr3 and needs no help.i played with el duke curves with the battleship release hdr2 looked good but now skies a little too burned in now.yes i agree gamma curves need to be set with a 55 to 60 contrast limit.


My Pacific Rim defaults to HDR 2...
Strange...


----------



## achanonier

knucklehd said:


> What currently works for me ITD (I Tweak Daily)
> I have been wanting to post my settings for a couple of weeks, finally here they are and I would like to here if they help anyone to maintain ECO mode and HDR2
> 
> GOAL: I only want ECO mode due to fan noise and extra heat not wanted in my Theater
> Thanks to others for their settings, some which I built from.
> * I do not want to use Natural for filter reasons, it's also noisier and uses more power.
> * I did not want to use HDR 1
> I have 664 hours on my bulb. I have a dark, light controlled theater room with a custom painted wall 128", no screen.
> I don't expect these setting to work perfect for you, however, give them a try and learn what to adjust in your room/movie situation.
> HDR is certainly not one size fits all!
> I did not want to force any of bt2020 or HDR modes, I leave all settings on auto which allows me to not have to switch color modes in menus of disc screens etc.
> 
> Set while using my Samsung UHD 8500 player and my Onkyo TX-NR656 receiver.
> HDR mode 2 (auto for most)
> Color Mode: Digital Cinema
> Brightness:57
> Contrast: 60
> Color saturation: 60
> Tint: 50
> Skin tone: 3
> Epson super white: Off - personal, see what works for you and dependent on movie sometimes and clipping
> Lens Iris - personal setting. I like -8 to -11 with Auto Iris off if quiet movie, else Normal (auto iris sounds like a hard drive scanning)
> I generally use image enhance 3
> 
> Custom gamma curve from left to right 0,9,21,25,28,29,25,17,0
> 
> Try the above first without messing with below, but my settings carried over from sdr color temp customized are:
> Customized Color temp
> Gain Red: 66
> Gain Green: 61
> Gain Blue: 59
> 
> Also under image > advanced > RGBCMY, you can add some more color, usually without penalty
> for all R


----------



## Waikis

panman40 said:


> I've never had a jvc due to cost, my last projector was a Sony hw65es, I recently went with the TW9300W in the uk. First impressions were pretty poor to be honest, I DIY calibrate and used the same kit I've always had, same screen / room etc. The best black level I could get was 0.006ftl and this resulted in an on/off CR of just 3300:1. My Sony was 0.003ftl with a CR of 5800:1. This could be seen clearly in content and blacks were weak and made worse with the grey scope movie bars on my 16:9 screen. Very dissapointing indeed.
> 
> Not really knowing what to do I just carried on watching pretty unhappy. I now have around 50 hrs on it and did a re cal last week and found black had dropped to 0.004ftl with a CR of 4000:1, an improvement, I also used custom gamma to get a flat 2.4 gamma curve right from 10% ire, this seems to have further improved 'perceived' black level without to much clipping.
> 
> It cost me £1050 uk to upgrade from my 1 yr old Sony ( taken as part exchange) and I had to borrow most of that, if the X5500 jvc was the same price I would have gone for that without doubt even factoring in the lamp price which here in the uk is £500 with the Epson at £300. I wish I could get a spare Epson lamp for the $150 that it seems to be in the USA!.
> 
> So for me it's been a bit of a bumpy ride especially as I had 2 complete shut downs with the lamp led flashing and high fan noise.
> 
> I had thought to see if I could return it and get my Sony back but as it seems to have gotten better after a few hrs and the fact 3D is better than Sonys I'm going to keep it and hopefully it will improve further and behave!.



Try getting a light power filter from cine4home. http://www.beamer-discount.de/sonst...w9300-tw9300w-inkl-einstellwerte-p-50637.html
With the filter on and in dynamic mode, I'm getting 0.0029 black level with a CR of ~6000:1. Bear in mind that my room is not a bat cave, so you might do better.


----------



## rogermoore123

achanonier said:


> Thanks for Sharing.
> I'm gonna give it a try and compare to my custom gamma curve with Natural mode.
> 
> I have two questions :
> In HDR mode : you set brightness to 60 : what about raised black level ?
> In SDR mode : what's the point on using a mode with filter for bt709 color space ?
> 
> Thanks !!


Using the filter gives you a higher contrast ratio with better blacks for a small screen. Too many lumens on my 110" screen in eco.


----------



## elmalloc

Does the 5040UBE support 4K wireless HDMI from PS4 Pro/receiver sources? Is there a special receiver I need to buy that will support it?

Thanks!


----------



## rogermoore123

elmalloc said:


> Does the 5040UBE support 4K wireless HDMI from PS4 Pro/receiver sources? Is there a special receiver I need to buy that will support it?
> 
> Thanks!


It comes with its own dedicated receiver with multiple hdmi but needs an extra power point.


----------



## elmalloc

rogermoore123 said:


> It comes with its own dedicated receiver with multiple hdmi but needs an extra power point.


Hi Roger,

Thanks for the quick reply. I have a bunch of (older) receivers with HDMI switching in them.

If I connect the PS4 Pro to my (older) receiver, I assume the HDMI out on the receiver will go into Epson's dedicated receiver? Does my receiver need to know how to process 4K of some sort?

Or do all the cables go into the Epson receiver, and are simultaneously streamed to Epson - and the Epson receiver has a dedicated cable to my own receiver?

Thanks!
ELmO


----------



## panman40

rogermoore123 said:


> Using the filter gives you a higher contrast ratio with better blacks.


Can cinema mode be calibrated for rec709 for normal tv and blu Ray ?. As it has the p3 filter I never tried.


----------



## panman40

Waikis said:


> Try getting a light power filter from cine4home. http://www.beamer-discount.de/sonst...w9300-tw9300w-inkl-einstellwerte-p-50637.html
> With the filter on and in dynamic mode, I'm getting 0.0029 black level with a CR of ~6000:1. Bear in mind that my room is not a bat cave, so you might do better.


That's interesting but dismissed it due to it having the red tint, I used a similar one on my hw40 but that had a colour tone that was bright but with a green push so ideal.

Do they do an nd2 I wonder ?. Also where does the filter fit on the outside or under the lens shutter ?. Thanks.


----------



## panman40

Waikis said:


> Try getting a light power filter from cine4home. http://www.beamer-discount.de/sonst...w9300-tw9300w-inkl-einstellwerte-p-50637.html
> With the filter on and in dynamic mode, I'm getting 0.0029 black level with a CR of ~6000:1. Bear in mind that my room is not a bat cave, so you might do better.


Sorry I forgot to ask, what horrible things lie within dynamic mode!, I can't really use anything other than low lamp due to the noise. I noticed the amount of dust particle that are drawn into the lens when it's powered up, I guess it's the fan drawing it in but it's a little worrying, a filter would stop that if it fits in front.
Thanks.


----------



## rogermoore123

elmalloc said:


> Hi Roger,
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I have a bunch of (older) receivers with HDMI switching in them.
> 
> If I connect the PS4 Pro to my (older) receiver, I assume the HDMI out on the receiver will go into Epson's dedicated receiver? Does my receiver need to know how to process 4K of some sort?
> 
> Or do all the cables go into the Epson receiver, and are simultaneously streamed to Epson - and the Epson receiver has a dedicated cable to my own receiver?
> 
> Thanks!
> ELmO


You can use your old receiver but you will not get 4k through it.
If you upgrade your amp you still have to have the ps4pro hdmi output turned down for the epson. ( ps4pro can pump out more than epson can handle )
I run ps4pro at 1080p 12bit 4.4.4 @ 60 fps or 30fps with details enhanced and use 4k enhance on epson.


----------



## elmalloc

rogermoore123 said:


> You can use your old receiver but you will not get 4k through it.
> If you upgrade your amp you still have to have the ps4pro hdmi output turned down for the epson. ( ps4pro can pump out more than epson can handle )
> I run ps4pro at 1080p 12bit 4.4.4 @ 60 fps or 30fps with details enhanced and use 4k enhance on epson.


Great information, thanks. Suggest me a new receiver!  Budget friendly, this is just a gaming 2.1 setup. 4-5+ HDMI is necessary!


----------



## rogermoore123

panman40 said:


> Can cinema mode be calibrated for rec709 for normal tv and blu Ray ?. As it has the p3 filter I never tried.


Yes - I use it for the lower lumen output ( 110" screen ).
Way too bright in other modes for SDR.Just had to turn down red and blue ( clipping ).
I have not calibrated for HDR.


----------



## rogermoore123

elmalloc said:


> Great information, thanks. Suggest me a new receiver!  Budget friendly, this is just a gaming 2.1 setup. 4-5+ HDMI is necessary!


I dont have the wireless model but just checked the manual - the wireless transmitter has an optical audio out port.
Should work on your old amp.
It also has a hdmi out port for a monitor or tv.
Download the user manual and check it out.


----------



## covsound1

achanonier said:


> My Pacific Rim defaults to HDR 2...
> Strange...


it has been awhile i will pop it in and check.i may have put it in hdr3.been playing battleship a lot the contrast is great notice the skies just look off no matter what gamma settings i use. went to sdr 2020 bang it all popped into place the clarity was just so much better the panny dynamic conversion was set -3. did not feel like i lost anything but gained.could it be epson processing of hdr or extreme settings of gamma correction for color brightness?


----------



## knucklehd

achanonier said:


> Thanks for Sharing.
> I'm gonna give it a try and compare to my custom gamma curve with Natural mode.
> 
> I have two questions :
> In HDR mode : you set brightness to 60 : what about raised black level ?
> In SDR mode : what's the point on using a mode with filter for bt709 color space ?
> 
> Thanks !!


Your welcome, 
I have always used Bright cinema mode in SDR, I believe it can still produce the best picture, allowing for better contrast. 
My main complaint is noise, so I won't use medium+ power or any mode that increases the fan noise. (my biggest problem with my Theater is the 8ft ceiling)

You mean I set contrast to 60? I could change that to "up to 60" because this is where some clipping begins on some movies.
My black levels are good, but since i know my last tweeking rage focused on trying to match an identical BR movie in brightness and color and comparing saved profiles from the natural settings profiles posted from other users. (which really is not the correct thing to do, but I had to have a guideline) When someone tries a new setting, and if they immediately see that their picture is darker, the quick judgement is passed on that this is not as good as their current brighter picture. 
My settings on my screen produced very similar picture as some of the other settings posted, except i remain in Bright Cinema mode and HDR 2 and ECO power, which I am pleased with. 

I need more movies! We need a standard still picture for comparison. I tried taking pics of my setup with phone camera and that is a real bad idea. 
Currently, I only have Xmen Apocalypse, Storks, The Revenant, Jason Bourne and The Martian.
I have seen Xmen 2 times, the other movies I have only watched the first chapters on while testing settings.


----------



## dvdwilly3

knucklehd said:


> Your welcome,
> I have always used Bright cinema mode in SDR, I believe it can still produce the best picture, allowing for better contrast.
> My main complaint is noise, so I won't use medium+ power or any mode that increases the fan noise. (my biggest problem with my Theater is the 8ft ceiling)
> 
> You mean I set contrast to 60? I could change that to "up to 60" because this is where some clipping begins on some movies.
> My black levels are good, but since i know my last tweeking rage focused on trying to match an identical BR movie in brightness and color and comparing saved profiles from the natural settings profiles posted from other users. (which really is not the correct thing to do, but I had to have a guideline) When someone tries a new setting, and if they immediately see that their picture is darker, the quick judgement is passed on that this is not as good as their current brighter picture.
> My settings on my screen produced very similar picture as some of the other settings posted, except i remain in Bright Cinema mode and HDR 2 and ECO power, which I am pleased with.
> 
> I need more movies! We need a standard still picture for comparison. I tried taking pics of my setup with phone camera and that is a real bad idea.
> Currently, I only have Xmen Apocalypse, Storks, The Revenant, Jason Bourne and The Martian.
> I have seen Xmen 2 times, the other movies I have only watched the first chapters on while testing settings.


I do not believe that a single still picture can be used. If so, what would it be?

You have two groups of studios using different mastering "standards". One group is mastering to 1000 nits. The other group is mastering at 4000 nits.

So, if you came up with a still picture masterd to 2000 nits, and calibrated to that, then none of the movies being mastered at 1000 nits or 4000 nits would look right.

Arguably, if you had a standard picture mastered at 1000 nits, then movies from one studio group would look fine. However, movies from the other group of studios would not.

Unless and until somebody gets their other foot nailed to the floor and develops a single standard AND all studios master to that standard, then there is no standard and we will continue to go round in circles...


----------



## Limp Fox

migsta said:


> Maybe this is just a standard coined sales pitch from a salesman, and you've probably heard it, but here is one salesman's point of view as to why the JVC X550RB is better than the 6040UB/5040UB. Any thoughts/comments?
> 
> "We have had the 6040UB in action in our demo room for a while now, and can confirm that the image quality has increased only slightly vs the 6030UB, and the contrast ratio is still just as poor. In other words, the 6040UB suffers from the same problem vs the JVC that the 6030UB did, except now it’s almost twice as expensive. The JVC X550RB actual measured native contrast is roughly 5.8x better than the 6040UB – we do a lot of ISF projector calibrations and we have measured contrasts with a top of the line colorimeter, so this is not a theoretical number, your contrast is literally going to be 5.8x higher on the JVC. This is a revolutionary difference and it’s easily seen to the naked eye. The 4K enhancement is a lot better on the JVC as well (due to primarily JVC being the company that made this innovation back in 2012, and is now on its 4th iteration of the enhancement which each iteration having gotten a lot better, whereas Epson is now late to the game and only now has their first version). So when you stack the JVC’s 5.8x better native contrast, sharper pixel structure, as well as much better 4K enhancement, the image is a whole lot better on the JVC X550RB. In summary, the X550RB is going to cost you a lot less money, and give you better overall performance. The difference is just really easy to see when you see the two projectors side by side. People who have come to the demo room have been blown away at how much better the JVC’s performance is compared to the 6040UB. If you are in the area, you’re welcome to come in and see the difference for yourself, but either way, I guarantee you that you will be a lot happier with the JVC than with the Epson in every single way."


Thanks for posting your thoughts. I was so close to pulling the trigger on the 6040, but after following this thread and recently looking at the JVC thread I'm sold on the JVC. The higher lamp cost shouldn't be a deal breaker to many people considering just like in the past we've seen them drop almost in half when newer models come out and/or generics start flooding the market. I'm just thankful that I didn't impulse buy like always. Man, I would've had to hear the wife nag every time (or close to it), we wanted to watch something because I would've been adjusting this and that. 

Best of luck to everyone in this thread. 

Judd


----------



## panman40

rogermoore123 said:


> Yes - I use it for the lower lumen output ( 110" screen ).
> Way too bright in other modes for SDR.Just had to turn down red and blue ( clipping ).
> I have not calibrated for HDR.


That's interesting, I found cinema a tad dull even with Iris open, what gain is your screen ?, I'm using an i1d3 and ChromaPure and have 16ftl measured off the screen, 1.0 gain white.


----------



## EL Duke

knucklehd said:


> Answer (along with tons of other good info) is also located in Seplant's
> Mini wiki
> 
> LENS memory settings guide


Thank you will give this a try


----------



## shin_iori

EL Duke said:


> After more playing about these are my hdr settings. These are simply done by eye so its my tastes but I find they work fine on the majority of the disks Ive played. I generally stick with hdr 2 and only really use hdr 1 occasionally. If you are using hdr1 u have to tame some of these settings our your highlights are gonna be blown way off.
> Cinema, brightness 75, contrast 70, color sat 58 colour temp 3 or 4, image enchan 3.
> Gamma customised -9 -2 -1 3 3 1 2 0 0.
> Power medium, epson super white on. Lens iris -5.
> Disks ive played over the last few days include. Xmen apocalypse, oblivion, suicide squad, BvS, man of steel, deepwater horizon, everest, the shallows, tmnt, star trek intp darkness, tarzan.
> The disk that really didnt seems to work was exodus. Needed alot of tweaking. Mag 7 was also abit of a pain to dial in


thanks for sharing

I've tested your setup on The Revenant, X-men Apocalypse => it's VERY GOOD !!! I have adopted your setup.

but on Pacific Rim , in some specials effect , the brightness are TOO HIGH. in HDR3 , the movie are too dark.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

question to PS4 Pro owners, any luck in getting 2160p-RGB? is the below is the maximum I can get with this projector? after playing few games with HDR, I prefer the higher resolution over it as the improvement with HDR is not worth the hassle for me.


----------



## covsound1

shin_iori said:


> thanks for sharing
> 
> I've tested your setup on The Revenant, X-men Apocalypse => it's VERY GOOD !!! I have adopted your setup.
> 
> but on Pacific Rim , in some specials effect , the brightness are TOO HIGH. in HDR3 , the movie are too dark.


as posted earlier there will be no standard gamma setting for hdr as disc are not mastered the same.you may need 3 different memory slots.a 100 percent slider control for hdr from a epson update would help.hope they give us something before the next model.jvc and sony address this with new models.


----------



## knucklehd

ana_moo_ana said:


> question to PS4 Pro owners, any luck in getting 2160p-RGB? is the below is the maximum I can get with this projector? after playing few games with HDR, I prefer the higher resolution over it as the improvement with HDR is not worth the hassle for me.


Yes this is correct. I get the same thing, confirmed if I plug into a supported HDR tv nearby, that the TV has full support. 
Either the PS4pro or the Projector will need some firmware update to allow it to work correctly.


----------



## shin_iori

hi

with a HDFURY Linker, you can


----------



## covsound1

natural is the only mode that wiil take rgb with out conversion.Dave Harper posted about getting a better results using rgb on his sony wonder if he ever tried natural mode before he his trail period ended with the epson. before i got the epson all i ever used was rgb expanded.


----------



## Waikis

panman40 said:


> Sorry I forgot to ask, what horrible things lie within dynamic mode!, I can't really use anything other than low lamp due to the noise. I noticed the amount of dust particle that are drawn into the lens when it's powered up, I guess it's the fan drawing it in but it's a little worrying, a filter would stop that if it fits in front.
> Thanks.


The only drawback with using dynamic mode is that calibration is a lot more difficult. But you can still achieve very good results. 
No issues with heat so far in the Australian summer.


----------



## clhug

elmalloc said:


> Does the 5040UBE support 4K wireless HDMI from PS4 Pro/receiver sources? Is there a special receiver I need to buy that will support it?
> 
> Thanks!


Keep in mind you will not get HDR with the PS4 Pro (or X-Box One S) with this projector. It just doesn't work. 4k works, but not 4k HDR.


----------



## elmalloc

I have not witnessed HDR yet, so I'm not going to konw any better.  Unless the JVC supports HDR...that 2017 model supposedly only has 2 frames of gaming lag now...I heard the Epson appears slightly sharper, though.


----------



## migsta

*Oppo or Panny or ...*

Pulled the trigger on the 6040UB - should hopefully be up and running Friday.

Would you go with the Oppo 203 or the older Panny UB900 with this projector? The Panny does not appear to support HDR so that would be a big deal? Apparently, the Oppo supports HDR10. Or, is another player recommended (i.e. Samsung). I'm mostly interested in the best picture quality and sound from a Bluray disc or a UHD disc so the other features are secondary.


----------



## Oledurt

I have hired an ISF Calibrater. After tweaking this projector on my own back and forth and using others settings and not being fully satisfied I am getting it professionally calibrated. I will be getting Rec709, and BT2020 HDR calibrated as well as 3D. 

All this for $300. I am especially looking forward to the HDR calibration, as I have found that particularly frustrating to deal with. I will let you guys know how it all turns out after it is done.

Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

Oledurt said:


> I have hired an ISF Calibration. After tweaking this projector on my own back and forth and using others settings and not being fully satisfied I am getting it professionally calibrated. I will be getting Rec709, and BT2020 HDR calibrated as well as 3D.
> 
> All this for $300. I am especially looking forward to the HDR calibration, as I have found that particularly frustrating to deal with. I will let you guys know how it all turns out after it is done.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'll be interested to see how this $300 investment works out for you.


----------



## schmidtwi

^^^^^ That is a good price for an ISF Calibration. What area of the US are you located? Perhaps you can share the Calibrator's name if you are happy with the results.


With the many problems people discuss here, it's easy to get a bad feeling for this pj.


I, for one, am completely blown away by the picture every time I use this unit. Not using HDR (yet), but Bluray & streaming movies via Roku Premier+ are fantastic in SDR. Xbox One S & PC games are excellent. I couldn't be happier. Ummm, wait. I will be happier when I finish my dedicated HT build, so I can upgrade to a 160" 2.35:1 screen for maximum effect!! 




.


----------



## Oledurt

schmidtwi said:


> ^^^^^ That is a good price for an ISF Calibration. What area of the US are you located? Perhaps you can share the Calibrator's name if you are happy with the results.
> 
> 
> With the many problems people discuss here, it's easy to get a bad feeling for this pj.
> 
> 
> I, for one, am completely blown away by the picture every time I use this unit. Not using HDR (yet), but Bluray & streaming movies via Roku Premier+ are fantastic in SDR. Xbox One S & PC games are excellent. I couldn't be happier. Ummm, wait. I will be happier when I finish my dedicated HT build, so I can upgrade to a 160" 2.35:1 screen for maximum effect!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .




Hello,

I am in Nebraska. I will let you know how it turns out when he finishes.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## crumby2

hello there.

My 9300 (5040) is too bright for me on my small 2meters screen (kinda regret not taking a JVC, seems the iris can close more according to lumens mesurements in reviews). It is surprising they do not take small screen users into account. I think under 3 meters, this projector must be too bright for many people..

I can use the "Cinema" mode (with his P3 filter) to reduce brightness but the colorspace is then troublesome.
What good ND filter would you recomend to minimize sharpness loss ? (i don't mind small color derivations, i can recalibrate after). The usual Hoya ND filter would be enought ?

By the way. I can't get what the difference is between "Cinema" and "Digital Cinema". "Cinema" seems to match DCI closely but what is "Digital Cinema" then ?


----------



## sddp

Smarty-pants said:


> Like someone else said, only 1080p on some pay per view stuff, and they offer 4K on like 3 or 4 channels,
> but you have to have special boxes and pay more for it and not worth the price IMO.
> 
> 99% of everything is 1080i or 720p and good grief, it's not even close to Blu-ray, and you are lucky if 5% of it looks as good as DVD.
> Compression artifacting all over the place and looks the same as cable tv, which is barely tolerable IMO.
> This type of viewing entertainment should be seen for the content, not the PQ.




I have called and spoken to DirectTV on a few occasions over the last few weeks asking specifically about getting 1080P and every time they said yes, one even checked with a supervisor. I had told them with Dish, I get 2 versions of almost all channels. A standard version and then next chan up is the HD (but 1080i) and told this to Direct and they said they offer 1080P even on their local channel line up. So this is just a blatant lie?


I want to see the Oscars in the best picture possible, which is coming up in the end of the month. So would DTV offer better picture over Dish?


----------



## crumby2

panman40 said:


> Can cinema mode be calibrated for rec709 for normal tv and blu Ray ?. As it has the p3 filter I never tried.


I am currently using cinemode until i get a ND filter (see my post above). The colors are a bit off. I have not been able to calibrate to rec709 because the RGB/CYM sliders doesn't go far enough. The green is still out of the 709 triangle.
I bought the Epson because the JVC price was really high and they had bad input lag for occasional gaming. But now that the new JVC X5500 has a gaming mode.. I kinda regret.

About C:R, i have around 6000:1 ON/OFF at iris -20 (without dynamic iris) with Natural or Cinemode (in my living room). It is ok except for movies with starfields like Star Wars..
It is strange you had only 3000:1 The contrast slider was at 50 ?

I agree the cinemode looks a bit dull. Not sure why. Maybe because of the improper colorspace. Or the P3 filter reduce intra contrast maybe...

I think it's bad design when you can't reduce brightness enough. The same goes for many cheaply designed computer screen since the LED switch.


----------



## GizmoSprocket

ana_moo_ana said:


> cant believe there is still no firmware fix for the HDR default to HDR1 when in Auto, thought it was coming late Dec early Jan!



Agreed... this is very frustrating.


----------



## k3nnis

crumby2 said:


> hello there.
> 
> My 9300 (5040) is too bright for me on my small 2meters screen (kinda regret not taking a JVC, seems the iris can close more according to lumens mesurements in reviews). It is surprising they do not take small screen users into account. I think under 3 meters, this projector must be too bright for many people..
> 
> I can use the "Cinema" mode (with his P3 filter) to reduce brightness but the colorspace is then troublesome.
> What good ND filter would you recomend to minimize sharpness loss ? (i don't mind small color derivations, i can recalibrate after). The usual Hoya ND filter would be enought ?
> 
> By the way. I can't get what the difference is between "Cinema" and "Digital Cinema". "Cinema" seems to match DCI closely but what is "Digital Cinema" then ?




How many inches diagonal is your screen and how far are you sitting from screen and what is your throw distance from projector lens to screen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ana_moo_ana

shin_iori said:


> hi
> 
> with a HDFURY Linker, you can






knucklehd said:


> Yes this is correct. I get the same thing, confirmed if I plug into a supported HDR tv nearby, that the TV has full support.
> 
> Either the PS4pro or the Projector will need some firmware update to allow it to work correctly.



Any idea if this is a limitation or miscommunication? & is the issue from Epson or PS4?


----------



## crumby2

k3nnis said:


> How many inches diagonal is your screen and how far are you sitting from screen and what is your throw distance from projector lens to screen?


90" diagonal (small appartement). I sit around 3 meters (10 ft) away. Projector 4 meters (13 ft) away.
I don't remember my mesurements but above 16fL by a good margin


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks. Is it bad to sit behind the projector? Eg projector is mounted 1 feet in front of my seating area


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

crumby2 said:


> I am currently using cinemode until i get a ND filter (see my post above). The colors are a bit off. I have not been able to calibrate to rec709 because the RGB/CYM sliders doesn't go far enough. The green is still out of the 709 triangle.
> I bought the Epson because the JVC price was really high and they had bad input lag for occasional gaming. But now that the new JVC X5500 has a gaming mode.. I kinda regret.
> 
> About C:R, i have around 6000:1 ON/OFF at iris -20 (without dynamic iris) with Natural or Cinemode (in my living room). It is ok except for movies with starfields like Star Wars..
> It is strange you had only 3000:1 The contrast slider was at 50 ?
> 
> I agree the cinemode looks a bit dull. Not sure why. Maybe because of the improper colorspace. Or the P3 filter reduce intra contrast maybe...
> 
> I think it's bad design when you can't reduce brightness enough. The same goes for many cheaply designed computer screen since the LED switch.


I've never had a problem yet with to bright a projector, it's the brightest so far though.

Where will you find an nd2 filter to fit ?, are you hoping to fit it over the very outside where it's a huge diameter ?, I can't open the lens Sheild manually to look at the lens itself, although I don't think there's enough gap between lens and inside of the Sheild for a filter ?.

After a recal and using Iris -16 my black now measures 0.004fl with CR 4000:1, better I suppose but still a bit weak, I think an nd2 would work well for 2D but would need to easily detach for 3D.

If you find a suitable nd2 please do let me know.

Thanks.


----------



## rogermoore123

ana_moo_ana said:


> Any idea if this is a limitation or miscommunication? & is the issue from Epson or PS4?


The PS4Pro on 4k RGB is pumping out a signal for 18gbs - epson only takes 10.2gbs as stated many times before.
Some people are using a linker to remove a lot of color information to get the signal. ( turned down to 8bit )


----------



## rogermoore123

panman40 said:


> That's interesting, I found cinema a tad dull even with Iris open, what gain is your screen ?, I'm using an i1d3 and ChromaPure and have 16ftl measured off the screen, 1.0 gain white.


The gain is 1.0 but I only have 120hrs on the lamp.
The last 10hrs have dropped lumens quite a lot now so I will calibrate properly soon.
Still bright enough at the moment but I have a dark grey recessed 600mm cavity in the wall for the screen with around 500mm space around screen.
Projector around 3.5m from screen and no other light in room.
( epson super white off )


----------



## rogermoore123

dvdwilly3 said:


> Unless and until somebody gets their other foot nailed to the floor and develops a single standard AND all studios master to that standard, then there is no standard and we will continue to go round in circles...


The solution is Dolby Vision,Hybrid log gamma and HDRdynamic metadata.
Unfortunately the epson will probably get non of these although the last two could be a firmware update with the HDMI upgraded to 2.1


----------



## ana_moo_ana

rogermoore123 said:


> The PS4Pro on 4k RGB is pumping out a signal for 18gbs - epson only takes 10.2gbs as stated many times before.
> 
> Some people are using a linker to remove a lot of color information to get the signal. ( turned down to 8bit )




uh again with this dumb limitation,,, dont think this can be fixed then.


----------



## migsta

*6040UB Install/Setup*

Any quick setup tips for the projector install of the 6040UB:


Obvious config changes to make right off the bat?
How do I know if my HDMI cable is passing the full signal? Is it only over the 4k Bluray player where I can check for this? Will be using the Panny UB900.
Would the mount from the 6010 hold the 6040UB or not worth chancing? Is the profile/install of the 6040UB ceiling mount identical or will it cover over the current 6010 ceiling mount. Just concerned about repair work, if any, to the ceiling when switching to the 6040UB ceiling mount.
It has two HDMI connectors on the back so I assume I would use HDMI 1 from my PREAMP?


----------



## swyda038

What is the best streaming / gaming device that provides the best image quality and compatibility with the Epson 5040ub?

Thanks


----------



## Evan201

swyda038 said:


> What is the best streaming / gaming device that provides the best image quality and compatibility with the Epson 5040ub?
> 
> Thanks


I got the Nvidia Shield TV 2017 and its fantastic. It puts out 4k resolution, BT2020 and 12bit and can be locked in at 4k/24p so the epson can accept the better resolution. It passes 4k video from Netflix and Amazon video also after fixing the output video to 4k/24p. Will need to set it to 4k/50 or /60 and then reboot. Once rebooted then switch to 4k/24p and you'll be good to go. 
I'm changing out my older 50' HDMI which is not passing through my Denon AVR-S510BT receiver for a Monoprice 35' active Luxe cable to see if I can eliminate the video and audio drop out I'm currently getting. 
I ran my current 50' cord direct from the shield to the epson and did receive the higher resolution properly, but with no way to run sound like that. 

Anyway, the Shield seems to be the best due to putting out BT2020 whenever possible and being capable of fixing the output video to 4k/24p which the epson can accept.

I have the new 35' MP Luxe cable coming today so I'll be reporting back on if that length works properly tonight.


----------



## crumby2

panman40 said:


> I've never had a problem yet with to bright a projector, it's the brightest so far though.
> 
> Where will you find an nd2 filter to fit ?, are you hoping to fit it over the very outside where it's a huge diameter ?, I can't open the lens Sheild manually to look at the lens itself, although I don't think there's enough gap between lens and inside of the Sheild for a filter ?.
> 
> After a recal and using Iris -16 my black now measures 0.004fl with CR 4000:1, better I suppose but still a bit weak, I think an nd2 would work well for 2D but would need to easily detach for 3D.
> 
> If you find a suitable nd2 please do let me know.
> 
> Thanks.


If think il will use a Hoya ND filter like this : https://www.amazon.com/Hoya-NDx2-Neutral-Density-Filter/dp/B00009R9EA/ (not sure if i will use a 0.2 or 0.3 yet, need to make some lumens mesurements).

The easiest method for me would be to cut a disc out of a flexible plastic sheet of 150mm diameter (outside ring of the projector), then make a hole in the center for the ND filter (need to check what diameter of ND filter is necessary for the light path at this point. depends of the zoom, lens shift). Then i would attach the disc with black electric tape.
(a 150mm filter would be super expensive)

But for a easily detachable one.. i don't know (i don't use 3D)
Maybe with a 150mm basic plastic lens cover ? But the outside in maybe a bit slippery (doesn't seems straight)


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Evan201 said:


> I got the Nvidia Shield TV 2017 and its fantastic. It puts out 4k resolution, BT2020 and 12bit and can be locked in at 4k/24p so the epson can accept the better resolution. It passes 4k video from Netflix and Amazon video also after fixing the output video to 4k/24p. Will need to set it to 4k/50 or /60 and then reboot. Once rebooted then switch to 4k/24p and you'll be good to go.
> I'm changing out my older 50' HDMI which is not passing through my Denon AVR-S510BT receiver for a Monoprice 35' active Luxe cable to see if I can eliminate the video and audio drop out I'm currently getting.
> I ran my current 50' cord direct from the shield to the epson and did receive the higher resolution properly, but with no way to run sound like that.
> 
> Anyway, the Shield seems to be the best due to putting out BT2020 whenever possible and being capable of fixing the output video to 4k/24p which the epson can accept.
> 
> I have the new 35' MP Luxe cable coming today so I'll be reporting back on if that length works properly tonight.


5040ube here. I've also been getting drop-outs. Only happens when passing 4k60hz content to the projector. The only source I have for that content at the moment is my gaming PC (Titan X), which requires a 35' cable to my Denon AVR-S920W, then a shorter 6' cable from the AVR to the Epson wireless transmitter. I've gone through two active 35' HDMI cables, and still get occasional drop-outs when passing 4k60hz.

I've decided to use the "nuclear option" and just ordered a 50' Celerity fiber optic HDMI cable. I'm not thrilled to have just spent $275 on an HDMI cable, but based on what I've read, that's probably the best chance of success in sending 4k60hz content to the projector at this point. I'll report back when I get it swapped in.


----------



## HarleyRider

*What would you do?*

Need your opinion on this dilemma. I think I know the answer, but wanted to get the opinion of people who know way more than me. I'm still within the return period for the 5040 and my local dealer just dropped the price of the JVC x750r by a couple grand. That still makes the JVC two grand more than the 5040, but would it be worth it to exchange the Epson for the JVC? Is it two grand better in contrast and 4k pixel shifting? Or would I be better off taking that $2k and buying a new quality high contrast screen? Thinking the screen is the answer because that would benefit any new projector down the road, right? I can't afford a Screen Innovations Black Diamond, but would one of their Series 5 Slate 1.2 be a good pair with the Epson and help improve the black levels?


----------



## budeliao

HarleyRider said:


> Need your opinion on this dilemma. I think I know the answer, but wanted to get the opinion of people who know way more than me. I'm still within the return period for the 5040 and my local dealer just dropped the price of the JVC x750r by a couple grand. That still makes the JVC two grand more than the 5040, but would it be worth it to exchange the Epson for the JVC? Is it two grand better in contrast and 4k pixel shifting? Or would I be better off taking that $2k and buying a new quality high contrast screen? Thinking the screen is the answer because that would benefit any new projector down the road, right? I can't afford a Screen Innovations Black Diamond, but would one of their Series 5 Slate 1.2 be a good pair with the Epson and help improve the black levels?


Keep the 5040, put the 2k in the bank for upgrade to real 4k PJ in 2-3 years.


----------



## Keith Ferguson

On the fence with the 6040 vs the 5040. Black would be nice but not an issue and i don't think the extra mount and bulb are worth the extra $1000. I think it is down to the ISF and if it makes a difference? I don't know much about it, will i miss it?


----------



## seplant

migsta said:


> Any quick setup tips for the projector install of the 6040UB:
> 
> 
> Obvious config changes to make right off the bat?
> How do I know if my HDMI cable is passing the full signal? Is it only over the 4k Bluray player where I can check for this? Will be using the Panny UB900.
> Would the mount from the 6010 hold the 6040UB or not worth chancing? Is the profile/install of the 6040UB ceiling mount identical or will it cover over the current 6010 ceiling mount. Just concerned about repair work, if any, to the ceiling when switching to the 6040UB ceiling mount.
> It has two HDMI connectors on the back so I assume I would use HDMI 1 from my PREAMP?





Regarding config changes, check the mini-wiki in my signature for several different recommendations. For SDR, I personally prefer Natural color setting. I don't have UHD blu-ray capability, so best to see what others recommend for that.

A 4K UHD HDR blu-ray would be best to determine if your cable is passing the full signal. Just go to Projector > Info to make sure the projector is receiving a 4K HDR Rec 2020 signal.

I went from a 6010 to a 6040, and I can tell you that the 6040 is quite a bit heavier. The mounts are exactly the same except for the mounting plate that attaches to the projector. 

If you want 4K HDR, you MUST use the HDMI 1 input.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Keith Ferguson said:


> On the fence with the 6040 vs the 5040. Black would be nice but not an issue and i don't think the extra mount and bulb are worth the extra $1000. I think it is down to the ISF and if it makes a difference? I don't know much about it, will i miss it?


And 1 year extra manufacturer's warranty. For me the ISF feature is a feature I'd never use but the black case is highly attractive as is the extra bulb and extra year factory warranty.


----------



## BRADH

I see on Epsons site there 1.08/1.04 firmware. From the image you can see what mine has. I am assuming mine is 1.06 is this correct? If in need to update it is using the USB cable from a laptop or a thumb drive the easiest. 

Thanks in advance 
Brad


----------



## dvdwilly3

BRADH said:


> I see on Epsons site there 1.08/1.04 firmware. From the image you can see what mine has. I am assuming mine is 1.06 is this correct? If in need to update it is using the USB cable from a laptop or a thumb drive the easiest.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Brad


Thumbdrive...dowload the zipped file and unzip it on your hard drive. 

Print the PDF instructions.

Copy the .bin file to the root directory of the thumb drive.

Then, follow the instructions.


----------



## Evan201

Well finally. 

Just got the Monoprice Luxe Active 35' and ran it to my my Denon AVR-S510BT. 
Have the Nvidia Shield 2017, Directv 4k, and Xbox One for Blue Ray SDR. 

I'm finally getting the most out of this setup reliably with all devices. The 4k UHD on Netflix and directv 4k channels look great. 
For those interested, you have to reboot the shield in 4k/50 and then switch to 4k/24p every time after a restart on the shield or you won't see the Netflix app show 4k UHD titles. 

After a ton of headaches, I'm finally happy with the results and setup. Even have HDR in Netflix passing through. 
For HDR I used the custom Gamma Natural previously discussed. 
Brightness 53
Contrast 63
Color Saturation 55
The screen is a custom Elite Screens Cinegrey 5d 105" 
Looks awesome. 

free image hosting


----------



## NoTechi

BRADH said:


> I see on Epsons site there 1.08/1.04 firmware. From the image you can see what mine has. I am assuming mine is 1.06 is this correct? If in need to update it is using the USB cable from a laptop or a thumb drive the easiest.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Brad



Just for info to European model users. Epson support told me not to use the US model Firmware (without giving a reason).
So for 9300W it is still Firmware 1.05 according to German Epson Website.


NoTechi


----------



## Stecchino

13

This is the number of simultaneously connected 3D glasses that worked with the 5040 this past weekend during a gathering at my house. I hadn't tried more that was just what we pulled off. Not too shabby Epson.


----------



## Soccerdude

Any FW upgrades from Epson for their 6040 since release ?.


----------



## Boldlygo

On the Canadian website there is no mention of firmware upgrades. Do we check the US website?




Soccerdude said:


> Any FW upgrades from Epson for their 6040 since release ?.


----------



## Soccerdude

Boldlygo said:


> On the Canadian website there is no mention of firmware upgrades. Do we check the US website?


No I didn't .


----------



## Keith Ferguson

seplant said:


> Regarding config changes, check the mini-wiki in my signature for several different recommendations. For SDR, I personally prefer Natural color setting. I don't have UHD blu-ray capability, so best to see what others recommend for that.
> 
> A 4K UHD HDR blu-ray would be best to determine if your cable is passing the full signal. Just go to Projector > Info to make sure the projector is receiving a 4K HDR Rec 2020 signal.
> 
> I went from a 6010 to a 6040, and I can tell you that the 6040 is quite a bit heavier. The mounts are exactly the same except for the mounting plate that attaches to the projector.
> 
> If you want 4K HDR, you MUST use the HDMI 1 input.
> [/INDENT]


WOW Seplant what a great cache of info....love it

Does anyone have a recommendation on professional or diy calibration? I am pretty handy (i think ) but no fancy tools or software.


----------



## BRADH

dvdwilly3 said:


> Thumbdrive...dowload the zipped file and unzip it on your hard drive.
> 
> Print the PDF instructions.
> 
> Copy the .bin file to the root directory of the thumb drive.
> 
> Then, follow the instructions.



Ok my thumbdrive is FAT 32 it didn't work. You said unzip the file, Iam not for sure how to do that. I am going to get a new thumbdrive and see if that works.


Brad


----------



## dvdwilly3

BRADH said:


> Ok my thumbdrive is FAT 32 it didn't work. You said unzip the file, Iam not for sure how to do that. I am going to get a new thumbdrive and see if that works.
> 
> 
> Brad


IIRC you have to reformat the thumb drive as NTFS first...

Just plug the thumb drive into your PC and right-click. Format will be a choice...


----------



## BRADH

dvdwilly3 said:


> IIRC you have to reformat the thumb drive as NTFS first...
> 
> Just plug the thumb drive into your PC and right-click. Format will be a choice...



Ok then it should work after reformatting to NTFS what about FAT?


Thanks for help


Brad


----------



## rjguk

BRADH said:


> Ok then it should work after reformatting to NTFS what about FAT?
> 
> 
> Thanks for help
> 
> 
> Brad


FAT32 is correct, you choose this in the format dialog.
There are two other important points.
1. After unzipping the file on your computer make sure the resulting .bin file is in the root directory of the stick. Easiest way to ensure this is to make it the only file on the stick.
(To unzip it you can usually select the downloaded file and then one of the options in File Explorer is 'Extract all'. The result is a directory containing the unzipped data. Copy the .bin file from there to the stick.)
2. A few brands of stick just don't behave correctly, usually because they've got hidden partitions to support vendor stuff. Try others.


----------



## budeliao

BRADH said:


> I see on Epsons site there 1.08/1.04 firmware. From the image you can see what mine has. I am assuming mine is 1.06 is this correct? If in need to update it is using the USB cable from a laptop or a thumb drive the easiest.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Brad


I'm assuming we have no info about what is in this new f/w build?


----------



## BRADH

budeliao said:


> I'm assuming we have no info about what is in this new f/w build?



Nothing I could fine.


Brad


----------



## BRADH

rjguk said:


> FAT32 is correct, you choose this in the format dialog.
> There are two other important points.
> 1. After unzipping the file on your computer make sure the resulting .bin file is in the root directory of the stick. Easiest way to ensure this is to make it the only file on the stick.
> (To unzip it you can usually select the downloaded file and then one of the options in File Explorer is 'Extract all'. The result is a directory containing the unzipped data. Copy the .bin file from there to the stick.)
> 2. A few brands of stick just don't behave correctly, usually because they've got hidden partitions to support vendor stuff. Try others.



Oddly the file when downloaded isn't zipped.


----------



## rjguk

BRADH said:


> Oddly the file when downloaded isn't zipped.


Sorry, the US site uses a straight .bin, the UK site uses a zip file containing the .bin and the instructions. Up to now the .bin files from either source have been identical, although that doesn't mean there won't be variations in future.


----------



## BRADH

rjguk said:


> Sorry, the US site uses a straight .bin, the UK site uses a zip file containing the .bin and the instructions. Up to now the .bin files from either source have been identical, although that doesn't mean there won't be variations in future.



I got it updated. You where right about some thumbdrives. The one that worked was PNY brand.


Thanks again


Brad


----------



## tdoom15

I've been reading and rereading as much as I can over the last few weeks, and still don't feel like I have a firm grasp on the 5040 and its compatibility issues with 4k/HDR and various devices.

My budget is $3k and I'm leaning toward the 5040 over the JVC rs400. I've heard sports and normal cable tv viewing is better on the Epson as well as I sometimes like to have a little ambient lighting for which I also hear the Epson is better.

Ideally I'd like to just hook up a comcast box and use a UHD blu ray player for blu ray and streaming, but looks like I will need the comcast box, UHD player and a dedicated streaming device to be able to do everything. I don't know if HDR will be important to me as I've read that the light output from projectors just aren't bright enough...but I'd still like to try it.

So my plan is this:

Comcast - TV/Sports

Phillips 7501 - 4k HDR Blu ray movies. 

Nvidia Shield TV - Netflix, Amazon, HBO Go, Hulu, etc. It sounds like the Shield should be able to do Netflix and Amazon at 24p for 4k HDR, correct?

Does this sound like a reasonable plan? What are the draw backs from such a set up?
Does the phillips give up anything in picture quality vs other options such as the samsung k8500/oppo/etc
With 3 devices, I'm assuming I'll need some sort of HDMI switch that is compatible with 4k HDR signal?

I appreciate all opinions, just want to be sure before I pull the trigger.


----------



## Evan201

tdoom15 said:


> I've been reading and rereading as much as I can over the last few weeks, and still don't feel like I have a firm grasp on the 5040 and its compatibility issues with 4k/HDR and various devices.
> 
> My budget is $3k and I'm leaning toward the 5040 over the JVC rs400. I've heard sports and normal cable tv viewing is better on the Epson as well as I sometimes like to have a little ambient lighting for which I also hear the Epson is better.
> 
> Ideally I'd like to just hook up a comcast box and use a UHD blu ray player for blu ray and streaming, but looks like I will need the comcast box, UHD player and a dedicated streaming device to be able to do everything. I don't know if HDR will be important to me as I've read that the light output from projectors just aren't bright enough...but I'd still like to try it.
> 
> So my plan is this:
> 
> Comcast - TV/Sports
> 
> Phillips 7501 - 4k HDR Blu ray movies.
> 
> Nvidia Shield TV - Netflix, Amazon, HBO Go, Hulu, etc. It sounds like the Shield should be able to do Netflix and Amazon at 24p for 4k HDR, correct?
> 
> Does this sound like a reasonable plan? What are the draw backs from such a set up?
> Does the phillips give up anything in picture quality vs other options such as the samsung k8500/oppo/etc
> With 3 devices, I'm assuming I'll need some sort of HDMI switch that is compatible with 4k HDR signal?
> 
> I appreciate all opinions, just want to be sure before I pull the trigger.


I went with the Denon AVR-S510BT receiver for HDCP 2.2 compliance. It has 5 inputs (3 of which are HDCP 2.2 compliant) combined with a 35' Luxe active cable, seems to work great with the epson. 
If I were you I would skip the Philips player for now due to the price of the unit and the UHD discs that may or may not look good for $30 a pop.
Try out the Nvidia Shield TV for a while. It does pass 4k/24p BT2020 and HDR from Netflix after some tweaking and offers all the great streaming apps. 
In Netflix you can search "HDR" and it will bring up titles that are offered in 4k HDR. There are about 10 titles on there right now. 
The Shield puts out a stunning picture with 4k videos on Youtube as well. Easily the best streaming box on the market in my opinion. Also can provide Kodi with Exodus and plenty of other add ons.
So far 4k streaming in SDR and SDR Blu Ray discs are the best performance on the Epson. I don't really see the need to go to a UHD Blu Ray Player and invest in $30 UHD discs since they will probably come out too dark for my liking. Standard Blu Rays look absolutely great though.


----------



## whmacs

NoTechi said:


> Just for info to European model users. Epson support told me not to use the US model Firmware (without giving a reason).
> So for 9300W it is still Firmware 1.05 according to German Epson Website.
> 
> 
> NoTechi


Hi NoTechi,
Here in Australia we have the 9300/9300W, the firmware on the Australian Epson site is 1.08

http://tech.epson.com.au/

Select the 9300W projector then select 'drivers and downloads' then select 'All'

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## exm

To any Roku Ultra/Prestige+ owners here:
Do I need to leave the Roku at 4:2:2 or use the secret menu to set it to 4:2:0 to get HDR?


----------



## ac388

Just to make sure I did not read it wrongly .... Leaving it ON after the adjustment is the right thing to do ???




bluer101 said:


> I'm a complete idiot.
> 
> After recieving my second 5040 I redid the panel alignment. The way I thought to do the alignment is to turn it on and do all the adjustments. Then click it off to set it. But did not realize that was wrong.
> 
> So after figuring it out I can say that it made a big improvement on the picture and especially on text.


----------



## bluer101

ac388 said:


> Just to make sure I did not read it wrongly .... Leaving it ON after the adjustment is the right thing to do ???


Yes. 

I thought it was a toggle to make the adjustments.


----------



## webmst

*8300 (5040) Returned*

I recently returned my 8300 (which is the 5040 here in Oz) after measuring 49-51 Db with 2 separate sound meters near the unit in Eco / Cinema Mode without 4K turned on.

A senior tech at Au. Epson Tech Support Help Centre indicated this was not normal and the unit is faulty.

I hope to get a replacement soon 

I got a Cine4home filter on it's way for the replacement (hopefully) anybody care to share their "before and after" settings when using one of these filters.


----------



## Waikis

webmst said:


> I recently returned my 8300 (which is the 5040 here in Oz) after measuring 49-51 Db with 2 separate sound meters near the unit in Eco / Cinema Mode without 4K turned on.
> 
> A senior tech at Au. Epson Tech Support Help Centre indicated this was not normal and the unit is faulty.
> 
> I hope to get a replacement soon
> 
> *I got a Cine4home filter on it's way for the replacement (hopefully) anybody care to share their "before and after" settings when using one of these filters*.


Calibrating with the C4H filter is very tricky since it uses dynamic mode. As a starting point, you can try the included calibration setting from C4H.


----------



## webmst

Waikis said:


> Calibrating with the C4H filter is very tricky since it uses dynamic mode. As a starting point, you can try the included calibration setting from C4H.


I agree - that's why I was keen to hear from anyone who's actually done it for themselves or had a pro calibrator install their unit with the device and can share their settings. .


----------



## EveryGlenn17

Using the 5040 as a pc monitor...

I'm in the process of deciding on a laptop that I can also use with the 5040 for gaming, etc. 

Does anyone with more Experience know if I'll be able to do 1440p/60 fps with a good laptop connected to this pj. I'm not worried about the laptop to do 1440/60, but just whether I'd be able to set it to output to the pj that way and whether the pj would receive it properly. And what kind of color would I be left with? 8 bit? 

Thanks in advance for any knowledge. I did try a search, but with my mobile browser it's not very effective.


----------



## Waikis

webmst said:


> I agree - that's why I was keen to hear from anyone who's actually done it for themselves or had a pro calibrator install their unit with the device and can share their settings. .


Ive done it with a de of less than 1.5 for greyscale except for the very low end. 
Happy to share my settings but im using a diy black widow screen.


----------



## panman40

I really wish cine4home did an nd2 aswell as the pink FL-day type, I would contact them but can't speak or type in German,

Is their filter designed to fit on the outside of the unit ?, that's a very large diameter, I wonder if it's glass or plastic ?.


----------



## Waikis

panman40 said:


> I really wish cine4home did an nd2 aswell as the pink FL-day type, I would contact them but can't speak or type in German,
> 
> Is their filter designed to fit on the outside of the unit ?, that's a very large diameter, I wonder if it's glass or plastic ?.


It fits outside and it's glass.

Also, the C4H filter is basically just a fl-day2 filter afaik. Ekki said it has been tested so that it meets the DCI spectrum, but don't know whether that's true or not.


----------



## NoTechi

whmacs said:


> Hi NoTechi,
> Here in Australia we have the 9300/9300W, the firmware on the Australian Epson site is 1.08
> 
> http://tech.epson.com.au/
> 
> Select the 9300W projector then select 'drivers and downloads' then select 'All'
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen



Many thanks Stephen I will go for it  A bit sad that Epson can't get their published Firmware revisions alligned arround the globe.


NoTechi


----------



## elmalloc

I was really pumped to get the Epson 5040UBE, I sold off my Epson 8350 and Optoma HD33 projectors to begin funding for it. 

In the mean time, I found out the BenQ HT8050 is coming out (4K) and Optoma UHD60 (supposedly resolves 4K also) are coming out. The BENQ MSRP is $8500 but I see it's sold out on a website for much less, and the UHD60 MSRP is $2800. 

I'm hesitant to purchase the 5040UBE although there are great reviews here, and I know the saying is you'll just keep waiting for the next thing. The BENQ is out in a couple weeks and Optoma is out 2Q...argh!


----------



## dvdwilly3

webmst said:


> I recently returned my 8300 (which is the 5040 here in Oz) after measuring 49-51 Db with 2 separate sound meters near the unit in Eco / Cinema Mode without 4K turned on.
> 
> A senior tech at Au. Epson Tech Support Help Centre indicated this was not normal and the unit is faulty.
> 
> I hope to get a replacement soon
> 
> I got a Cine4home filter on it's way for the replacement (hopefully) anybody care to share their "before and after" settings when using one of these filters.


I have not measured it, but I can tell you that my 6400 is quieter than the Sony VW-VPL50 which it replaced...and fan noise was not really an issue on that projector...


----------



## crumby2

webmst said:


> I recently returned my 8300 (which is the 5040 here in Oz) after measuring 49-51 Db with 2 separate sound meters near the unit in Eco / Cinema Mode without 4K turned on.


My 9300 is also a lot louder than i thought it would be, after reading some reviews claiming that it was barely audible. I am disapointed. It's not "loud" but at night watching a movie at low volume, its annoying. Maybe i will buy a sound meter.
I asked Epson in which condition the 21db announced was measured (distance) but they never answered.

They told me i can send it for checkup but well... the chances i get it back somehow damaged or replaced with some refurbished unit are high. ("Service centers" are computer&others stuff repair affiliated business here)
I don't know about sound meters brands. What would you recommand ? cheap and accurate.


----------



## bluer101

Both 5040ub that I have had are basically quiet. I run bright cinema, eco, 4K. Mine is mounted above head back 1 foot. 

The only time I hear the 4K enhance whine is with a 1080 60 signal. Regular bluray at 1080p 24 4K enhance there is no whine.


----------



## rupedogg24

Soooo I ended up biting the bullet and ordering the HDfury Integral. Specifically for the stripping of HDR on 4k Blurays. 

Can someone point me in the direction of how to strip the HDR Metadata with the Integral? Thank you in advance. I downloaded the PDF instructions and will play with it once it arrives. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

rupedogg24 said:


> Soooo I ended up biting the bullet and ordering the HDfury Integral. Specifically for the stripping of HDR on 4k Blurays.
> 
> Can someone point me in the direction of how to strip the HDR Metadata with the Integral? Thank you in advance. I downloaded the PDF instructions and will play with it once it arrives.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Hi Rupedogg24,
Firstly install the IOS or Andriod Integral app on your phone or tablet as this will allow you to control the integral via Bluetooth. Now take a look at page 14 of the Ingeral manual. You want to set the custom EDID to 10 (4K60 4.2.0 12bit BT.2020 all sound) This will give you wide colour gamut (Rec 2020) but remove HDR.

There is also a Integral group on AVS where the makers of the Intergral (HD Fury) answer your questions. If you search for Epson, there has been a number of posts on how to strip HDR.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2171745-hdfury-integral.html

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## rupedogg24

whmacs said:


> Hi Rupedogg24,
> Firstly install the IOS or Andriod Integral app on your phone or tablet as this will allow you to control the integral via Bluetooth. Now take a look at page 14 of the Ingeral manual. You want to set the custom EDID to 10 (4K60 4.2.0 12bit BT.2020 all sound) This will give you wide colour gamut (Rec 2020) but remove HDR.
> 
> There is also a Integral group on AVS where the makers of the Intergral (HD Fury) answer your questions. If you search for Epson, there has been a number of posts on how to strip HDR.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2171745-hdfury-integral.html
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


Stephen - Thanks kind sir. Really appreciate it. Do you have the integral? How has your experience been with it?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

whmacs said:


> Hi Rupedogg24,
> Firstly install the IOS or Andriod Integral app on your phone or tablet as this will allow you to control the integral via Bluetooth. Now take a look at page 14 of the Ingeral manual. You want to set the custom EDID to 10 (4K60 4.2.0 12bit BT.2020 all sound) This will give you wide colour gamut (Rec 2020) but remove HDR.
> 
> There is also a Integral group on AVS where the makers of the Intergral (HD Fury) answer your questions. If you search for Epson, there has been a number of posts on how to strip HDR.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2171745-hdfury-integral.html
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


 10 (4K60 4.2.0 12bit BT.2020 all sound)

I'm assuming this setting covers 4k/24p? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## corvus0

*Problems with lens iris*

The (manual) lens iris on my 5040ub is having problems, and Epson refuses to fix it.

I can adjust the iris using the menu, and it appears to work correctly if I close it down to -20 and then open it up back to -1. But at the final step from -1 to 0, an error message pops up saying "Cannot switch the Lens Iris. Contact your nearest Epson service center."

I did just that, and the person I spoke with said that since that's not a feature of the 5040ub (but the 6040ub), they will not fix it (nevermind that I'm apparently stuck at slightly less than a fully open iris) because there is "nothing to fix".

Of course there was much confusion when the 5040 was released around whether it did have this feature because of the wording in the manual, yet all of the reports from folks indicated the feature was present (as it is on mine), and there were even some reports from folks who confirmed with Epson that they have the same settings (for example post 892 in the product announcement thread).

I'm not sure how to proceed. On the one hand, I have nothing from Epson really to back up the idea that this is something that should even be on this model. On the other hand, I clearly have an actual unit with a defect. However, that seems to be the only thing wrong with it, and I can probably live with it.


----------



## whmacs

rupedogg24 said:


> 10 (4K60 4.2.0 12bit BT.2020 all sound)
> 
> I'm assuming this setting covers 4k/24p?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Hi Rupedogg24,
Yes, I've had an Integral for a few months now and it has worked very well. In my case I use it between my Panasonic UB900 4K blu-ray player and my 2013 Sony 4K TV to strip away the HDCP 2.2 copy protection, Rec2020 wide colour gamut and HDR. While my TV is 4K it does not support any of these features. Without the Integral, as my TV does not support HDCP 2.2. I would only get 1080p from a 4K blu-ray. I have my EDID set to 12 (4k60-420 8-bit 300MHz All Sound).

In the next couple of days I will be getting an Epson 9300W (6040UBE in the USA) and like you, I will use the Integral to remove HDR before sending to the Epson.

EDID setting 10 will cover 4k/24p.

BTW, How do you like your projector? 

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## rupedogg24

whmacs said:


> Hi Rupedogg24,
> Yes, I've had an Integral for a few months now and it has worked very well. In my case I use it between my Panasonic UB900 4K blu-ray player and my 2013 Sony 4K TV to strip away the HDCP 2.2 copy protection, Rec2020 wide colour gamut and HDR. While my TV is 4K it does not support any of these features. Without the Integral, as my TV does not support HDCP 2.2. I would only get 1080p from a 4K blu-ray. I have my EDID set to 12 (4k60-420 8-bit 300MHz All Sound).
> 
> In the next couple of days I will be getting an Epson 9300W (6040UBE in the USA) and like you, I will use the Integral to remove HDR before sending to the Epson.
> 
> EDID setting 10 will cover 4k/24p.
> 
> BTW, How do you like your projector?
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


I freaking love it. Movies, TV, sports, all look amazing on it. I have HDR turned off on my Philips BDP so I'm interested to see if there is a huge difference in picture quality. Thank you very much for your response. 

You will not be disappointed with the Epson. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## mycview2

I would love to buy a 5040UBe based on all of the reviews but have an issue with a long-throw situation.

Distance between projector and 120" screen will be about 30 feet.

We watch movies primarily at night and have good blinds if not.

Will this projector work and if not any reccomendations?


----------



## Evan201

mycview2 said:


> I would love to buy a 5040UBe based on all of the reviews but have an issue with a long-throw situation.
> 
> Distance between projector and 120" screen will be about 30 feet.
> 
> We watch movies primarily at night and have good blinds if not.
> 
> Will this projector work and if not any reccomendations?



Mine is operating flawlessly with Monoprice Luxe 35' Active HDMI cable.


----------



## mycview2

Evan201 said:


> Mine is operating flawlessly with Monoprice Luxe 35' Active HDMI cable.


Nice, thanks for the response - so you've got a 35' cable - are you throwing a full 35' feet to that 105' screen?


----------



## elmalloc

mycview2 said:


> I would love to buy a 5040UBe based on all of the reviews but have an issue with a long-throw situation.
> 
> Distance between projector and 120" screen will be about 30 feet.
> 
> We watch movies primarily at night and have good blinds if not.
> 
> Will this projector work and if not any reccomendations?


Using ProjectorCentral's calculator, I see at 30ft throw the 5040UB will give a 145" diagonal 16x9 as the smallest.

In order to achieve 120", you would have to bring the lens to screen to 24'10".

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## Evan201

mycview2 said:


> Nice, thanks for the response - so you've got a 35' cable - are you throwing a full 35' feet to that 105' screen?


My projector is mounted roughly 12' from my screen.


----------



## elmalloc

I thikn I'm going to be in trouble using the 5040 in my room. I have a 110" screen in there, I don't think I'll have the requisite 10'9" from lens to screen with the 5040 because the projector is HUGE! I almost need the back of the projector to be flush mounted with the wall. Yikes. Really should have gone with a 100" screen.


----------



## whmacs

rupedogg24 said:


> I freaking love it. Movies, TV, sports, all look amazing on it. I have HDR turned off on my Philips BDP so I'm interested to see if there is a huge difference in picture quality. Thank you very much for your response.
> 
> You will not be disappointed with the Epson.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Thanks Rupedogg24,
Glad to hear you are enjoying your projector. Looking forward to getting mine.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## bigabit

mycview2 said:


> I would love to buy a 5040UBe based on all of the reviews but have an issue with a long-throw situation.
> 
> Distance between projector and 120" screen will be about 30 feet.
> 
> We watch movies primarily at night and have good blinds if not.
> 
> Will this projector work and if not any reccomendations?


I'm doing about a 30' throw. It works. Keep in mind that you lose a lot of light (up to 30%) at this distance. So you will be probably end up in high lamp mode, and the brighter color profiles. I use Natural. It looks great. Projector is much louder in high lamp mode if you don't have an enclosure.

Sonys do better in general with the longer throw (lose only 15-20% light), and are quieter. But Sony doesn't have anything comparable at this price point if you are interested in playing 4k content.


----------



## EL Duke

whmacs said:


> Hi Rupedogg24,
> Firstly install the IOS or Andriod Integral app on your phone or tablet as this will allow you to control the integral via Bluetooth. Now take a look at page 14 of the Ingeral manual. You want to set the custom EDID to 10 (4K60 4.2.0 12bit BT.2020 all sound) This will give you wide colour gamut (Rec 2020) but remove HDR.
> 
> There is also a Integral group on AVS where the makers of the Intergral (HD Fury) answer your questions. If you search for Epson, there has been a number of posts on how to strip HDR.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2171745-hdfury-integral.html
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


Can you connect and control the fury from off the bat with bluetooth? I am keen on trying the strip metadata feature with the projector but my laptop is pretty goosed right now and I cant see myself replacing it as I dont really have a need for a pc/laptop these days. I had no idea these were bluetooth so I might look into getting one again rather than getting the oppo.


----------



## whmacs

EL Duke said:


> Can you connect and control the fury from off the bat with bluetooth? I am keen on trying the strip metadata feature with the projector but my laptop is pretty goosed right now and I cant see myself replacing it as I dont really have a need for a pc/laptop these days. I had no idea these were bluetooth so I might look into getting one again rather than getting the oppo.


Hi EL Duke,
Yes, you can just control it using an IOS or Android device via Bluetooth straight out of the box. You will however need a Windows computer to update the Integral's firmware. 

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## elmalloc

bigabit said:


> I'm doing about a 30' throw. It works. Keep in mind that you lose a lot of light (up to 30%) at this distance. So you will be probably end up in high lamp mode, and the brighter color profiles. I use Natural. It looks great. Projector is much louder in high lamp mode if you don't have an enclosure.
> 
> Sonys do better in general with the longer throw (lose only 15-20% light), and are quieter. But Sony doesn't have anything comparable at this price point if you are interested in playing 4k content.


If my calculation is correct though, he can't use a 30ft throw with a 120" screen. 30ft minimal image size is 145". He'll need to brin the projector closer.


----------



## elmalloc

*What SOURCES should we use with the 5040UBE?*

So after reading this thread, I'm still a little confused. If I get this projector, it will be *for wireless HDMI only.* AFAIK, the wireless HDMI doesn't affect the signal but beats me at this point considering everyone here is talking about running 35ft fiber optic HDMI cables.

What *sources* should I use? 


I currently have a PS4 (non pro) and XBOX One (non-S). 
It sounds like from many of you that original blurays using 4k enhancement look "nearly as good as UHD", and some of you say "this UHD looks outstanding".
Others appear content streaming 4K in some fashion.

*Questions:*


So to UHD or not to UHD with the 5040UBE (wireless)?
What source should we use, if UHD? Philips or Oppo?
Purpose of Nvidia Shieild TV? I have a GTX 1080 machine that would only be connected wirelessly, but it sounds like people use Nvidia Shield for 4K streaming
Any reason to upgrade to PS4 Pro and XBOX One S?

Thanks!
ELmO


----------



## EL Duke

whmacs said:


> Hi EL Duke,
> Yes, you can just control it using an IOS or Android device via Bluetooth straight out of the box. You will however need a Windows computer to update the Integral's firmware.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


Cheers,
Has anyone got any comparison pics of this pj running in hdr mode and it having the meta data stripped? Or any experience just stripping the meta data using the fury or oppo player?


----------



## lgreis

Ho all, does anyone have a dalite high power 2.8 screen that are using with the 5040/6040? Projector junkies made a review and in cinema mode it delivered 246 ansi lumens and 9500.1 CR, it will be perfect for an HP, does anyone made the same readings? And the cinema mode works with 4k and 1080p? Bt709 and 2020? Thanks

Enviado do meu GT-I9505 através de Tapatalk


----------



## lgreis

http://www.projectorjunkies.com/epson-tw9300-full-review-2/

Enviado do meu GT-I9505 através de Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

The Frame Interpolation option on my 6040 is always grayed out, no matter what source I am using. Does anyone know what conditions cause this and how to enable it? I know this was working when I first received this projector, but has not for some time now. I thought maybe other settings might be disabling frame interpolation, but I have tried toggling several other settings (such as 4K enhancement) with no luck. Since 4K enhancement is not available for 3D sources, Frame Interpolation should be available in 3D, but it is still grayed out on my projector. My sources include an Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player, Sony PS3, Tivo Premiere XL4, Philips BDP7501 UHD player, and Roku Premiere +.


----------



## dholmes54

You guys are talking about 30-40 ft from lens to screen,you must have a big HT! I'm jealous, mine is only 23x11.5, my lens is 13 ft from a120 in 16.9 screen which was a job putting up by myself in a 11.5 wide room! Since your talking about 30ft or more you must be mounting it in the back wall like a commercial theater,that would be nice.


----------



## covsound1

lgreis said:


> Ho all, does anyone have a dalite high power 2.8 screen that are using with the 5040/6040? Projector junkies made a review and in cinema mode it delivered 246 ansi lumens and 9500.1 CR, it will be perfect for an HP, does anyone made the same readings? And the cinema mode works with 4k and 1080p? Bt709 and 2020? Thanks
> 
> Enviado do meu GT-I9505 através de Tapatalk


i have the hp2.8 high gain with the 5040 16.9 screen.because i have had it so long i have taken its gain for granted until last night when i compared it to a elite 3d screen. the 3d is very good about 3 f stops lower than the hp2.8 it hides problems you would notice on the 2.8.mid tone colors pop about the same but high tone colors just take off one the 2.8 more like real life.i wanted to do a 2.35 to screen and that is why i got the 3d.did not want to destroy the hp as you can not buy it any more.i will make a 2.35 frame for the 3d and see if i can live with it.


----------



## lgreis

Did you already try the cinema mode with the HP low lamp and min iris? How is it? Can be used with bluray and uhd? 

Enviado do meu GT-I9505 através de Tapatalk


----------



## BRADH

Ok I might need a little help.


I have attached a few pictures of what looks like a geometry or pincushion problem. In the pic with the white line showing all the way around the screen you cans in the bottom right corner is lifted if you zoom in it is off of the screen frame. In the other pic you can see I moved the image in a bit and the top right corner and bottom left are moved in. 


Sorry I just looked at them again and they aren't level. I wasn't holding my phone level, but you get the idea. If I line up the top line across the entire screen frame the left bottom goes down and the right is up bit. I can see it on the frame. I have images from digital video essentials and I have the same thing. One other thing there is no distortion in focus. The optic is tack sharp. Honestly its as sharp as the 900a which has a great lens.


I replaced my Samsung SP A900B single chip DLP with the 6040ub. Everything else has is the same mount and screen. I didn't have this problem with the Samsung. 


Using the lens sift does seem to change it a little but not much. I can replace the ceiling mount with the one that came with the projector if that would help, it has more adjustments. I have emailed Epson with the pictures and they want me to call them Monday. I was just wondering if anyone here has had or seen this problem. If so is something I can try to fix this. My old projector didn't have electronic controls like this one does.


Thanks in advance.


Brad


----------



## panman40

BRADH said:


> Ok I might need a little help.
> 
> 
> I have attached a few pictures of what looks like a geometry or pincushion problem. In the pic with the white line showing all the way around the screen you cans in the bottom right corner is lifted if you zoom in it is off of the screen frame. In the other pic you can see I moved the image in a bit and the top right corner and bottom left are moved in.
> 
> 
> Sorry I just looked at them again and they aren't level. I wasn't holding my phone level, but you get the idea. If I line up the top line across the entire screen frame the left bottom goes down and the right is up bit. I can see it on the frame. I have images from digital video essentials and I have the same thing. One other thing there is no distortion in focus. The optic is tack sharp. Honestly its as sharp as the 900a which has a great lens.
> 
> 
> I replaced my Samsung SP A900B single chip DLP with the 6040ub. Everything else has is the same mount and screen. I didn't have this problem with the Samsung.
> 
> 
> Using the lens sift does seem to change it a little but not much. I can replace the ceiling mount with the one that came with the projector if that would help, it has more adjustments. I have emailed Epson with the pictures and they want me to call them Monday. I was just wondering if anyone here has had or seen this problem. If so is something I can try to fix this. My old projector didn't have electronic controls like this one does.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> Brad


I would say you need to tilt the PJ unit down on the left side and the rotate it slightly to the right the use lens shift to square up again, this is from standing behind the PJ looking at the screen.


----------



## panman40

seplant said:


> The Frame Interpolation option on my 6040 is always grayed out, no matter what source I am using. Does anyone know what conditions cause this and how to enable it? I know this was working when I first received this projector, but has not for some time now. I thought maybe other settings might be disabling frame interpolation, but I have tried toggling several other settings (such as 4K enhancement) with no luck. Since 4K enhancement is not available for 3D sources, Frame Interpolation should be available in 3D, but it is still grayed out on my projector. My sources include an Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player, Sony PS3, Tivo Premiere XL4, Philips BDP7501 UHD player, and Roku Premiere +.


My frame interpolation is greyed out whenever the PJ is receiving a 24 or 60hz signal, 50hz from uk sky HD and it's available to use. Trust me though, it's not worth using imo. If you want a slightly smoother 3D motion just change image processing fron fine to fast but be aware this setting seems global so you may need to change it back for anything else.


----------



## covsound1

lgreis said:


> Did you already try the cinema mode with the HP low lamp and min iris? How is it? Can be used with bluray and uhd?
> 
> Enviado do meu GT-I9505 através de Tapatalk


the hp is what i have set up now looks good with sdr 709 sdr 2020 and full hdr. just on the fence about elite 3d.if i never had a hp i would never know what i was missing. the same can be said for the 3d black level.i still get that inky black feeling with the hp but with the with the 3d it is really black and contrast seems to take a hit.in prometheus the cave seen i can feel the flash light project into the room and follow the reflections on my walls and this is in eco mode.it may turn out i may love the 3d after i set it up and get use to it?


----------



## BRADH

panman40 said:


> I would say you need to tilt the PJ unit down on the left side and the rotate it slightly to the right the use lens shift to square up again, this is from standing behind the PJ looking at the screen.



Thanks for the info that was exactly what was needed. It's perfect now. 

Thanks again
Brad


----------



## chevpowr

welldun said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Could Shepdog or any one else who is able edit the first post, be as kind as to update it with some of the info and discoveries about the projector? There is a lot of good information buried in this thread, and this would help many of us who are either new or still trying to figure out what settings work best with which UHD player or streaming device etc.
> 
> based on the structure of the original post, I believe that this was the intention all along.





Oledurt said:


> I have hired an ISF Calibrater. After tweaking this projector on my own back and forth and using others settings and not being fully satisfied I am getting it professionally calibrated. I will be getting Rec709, and BT2020 HDR calibrated as well as 3D.
> 
> All this for $300. I am especially looking forward to the HDR calibration, as I have found that particularly frustrating to deal with. I will let you guys know how it all turns out after it is done.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I would be interested in seeing the settings you get from your calibration  
Im going to try to use a calibration disk tonight and see if it helps. 
The color in natural mode looks amazing but Im always looking for better. Also I would love to see the HDR settings you get because I am lost on how to get that to look correct.


----------



## panman40

Been dissapointed with UHD so far on my 9300, I have an Oppo 203 and set HDR to off, deepwater horizon didn't look great tonight, even HDR on with cinema/hdr1 it was dissapointing. Had audio drop ots and lip sync issues from the Oppo, 

Feeling peeved I went back and tried the blu Ray, this looked better, then I selected source direct from Oppo resoloution , fantastic picture from the Epson now, I just don't think I need 4K UHD, great colours, detail, shadow detail and black levels. 
Excellent!.


----------



## raf77

Good to me, I will stay with FHD for while.


----------



## lgreis

covsound1 said:


> the hp is what i have set up now looks good with sdr 709 sdr 2020 and full hdr. just on the fence about elite 3d.if i never had a hp i would never know what i was missing. the same can be said for the 3d black level.i still get that inky black feeling with the hp but with the with the 3d it is really black and contrast seems to take a hit.in prometheus the cave seen i can feel the flash light project into the room and follow the reflections on my walls and this is in eco mode.it may turn out i may love the 3d after i set it up and get use to it?


Do you have some readings about what you are geting in cinema mode, low lamp, closed iris with the HP? And what contrast ratio?

Enviado do meu GT-I9505 através de Tapatalk


----------



## exm

exm said:


> To any Roku Ultra/Prestige+ owners here:
> Do I need to leave the Roku at 4:2:2 or use the secret menu to set it to 4:2:0 to get HDR?


Anyone any input? Thanks!


----------



## firefox20000

Evan201 said:


> Well finally.
> 
> Just got the Monoprice Luxe Active 35' and ran it to my my Denon AVR-S510BT.
> Have the Nvidia Shield 2017, Directv 4k, and Xbox One for Blue Ray SDR.
> 
> I'm finally getting the most out of this setup reliably with all devices. The 4k UHD on Netflix and directv 4k channels look great.
> For those interested, you have to reboot the shield in 4k/50 and then switch to 4k/24p every time after a restart on the shield or you won't see the Netflix app show 4k UHD titles.
> 
> After a ton of headaches, I'm finally happy with the results and setup. Even have HDR in Netflix passing through.
> For HDR I used the custom Gamma Natural previously discussed.
> Brightness 53
> Contrast 63
> Color Saturation 55
> The screen is a custom Elite Screens Cinegrey 5d 105"
> Looks awesome.
> 
> free image hosting


Which settings you are use? Thanks


----------



## migsta

*6040UB Online*

Setup the projector Friday, it's pretty nice but just have to tinker too much. My old Audioquest Cinnamon cable seems to be okay @ 40 feet plus passing the full signal. Have played 2 full 4K UHD discs and no issues at all. Only disc is Deadpool on a specific chapter where it just pixelates like crazy with a pixelated picture and no audio - other chapters seem fine - might still be my cable with certain discs or just certain 4K UHD discs have issues?

I'm using 4K HDR with Signal set from Auto to BT2020 and Auto to HDR1 or SDR instead of Auto/HDR2. SDR seems to bright but HDR1 can be too dark in scenes. I guess these settings don't save right cause I have to manually turn them from Auto to the aforementioned and back to Auto when I want to watch other than 4K HDR.

When switching source, TV to Bluray Player, all of a sudden I heard a buzzing noise coming from the 6040. Went away after switching back and forth between sources but anything to worry about?

4K HDR:
Mode: ECO
Iris: OFF
Picture Mode: Bright Cinema (any other tweaks here for this mode)
Signal: BT2020 & HDR1 or SDR
Epson White: ON

My Panny UB900 (anybody have this player and can tell me what settings should be set for 4K HDR and Bluray).

TV: Cinema
Epson White: On
Mode: ECO
Iris: OFF
Anything else

What picture mode do you guys use for straight Bluray? Do you have to worry about the signal settings when using just Bluray?


----------



## Michał Cyfert

I am considering buying EPSON 9300 (6040 in US) + CIH (2.4:1) screen. I have a light gray painted wall. Will the black bars in 2.40:1 Blu-ray films be very visible on the wall?


----------



## BRADH

migsta said:


> When switching source, TV to Bluray Player, all of a sudden I heard a buzzing noise coming from the 6040. Went away after switching back and forth between sources but anything to worry about?
> 
> 4K HDR:
> Mode: ECO
> Iris: OFF
> Picture Mode: Bright Cinema (any other tweaks here for this mode)
> Signal: BT2020 & HDR1 or SDR
> Epson White: ON
> 
> 
> What picture mode do you guys use for straight Bluray? Do you have to worry about the signal settings when using just Bluray?




The buzzing noise is normal. I hear no buzzing when playing 24fs but when it plays 60fs I hear a little buzzing.


From what I have read the Natural mode is the most accurate out of the box. I use that mode and used Digital video essentials bluray disc to calibrate mine. I will have it ISF calibrated after I get a few 100 hours on it.


I don't have any 4k setup yet so other will have to chime in on that.


Brad


----------



## Glenn Rubin

migsta said:


> Pulled the trigger on the 6040UB - should hopefully be up and running Friday.
> 
> Would you go with the Oppo 203 or the older Panny UB900 with this projector? The Panny does not appear to support HDR so that would be a big deal? Apparently, the Oppo supports HDR10. Or, is another player recommended (i.e. Samsung). I'm mostly interested in the best picture quality and sound from a Bluray disc or a UHD disc so the other features are secondary.


I have the Panisonic UB900 and it does support HDR only via disc playback though. No streaming HDR that I'm aware of. To be honest I think the regular 4K looks better anyway. The HDR is too dark in my opinion. I also have a Roku Ultra 4K and compared the streaming to the Panny. The Panasonic has a much better picture streaming. Not to mention the sound on the Panasonic is out of this world. I can't speak for the Oppo 203 but from the research I've done most say the Panasonic is far superior. As of a couple of days ago the Panasonic was $100 off on their site. $599 w/free shipping plus tax. Hope this helps.


----------



## covsound1

lgreis said:


> Do you have some readings about what you are geting in cinema mode, low lamp, closed iris with the HP? And what contrast ratio?
> 
> Enviado do meu GT-I9505 através de Tapatalk


for non hdr i can close it down to all the way to -20.i like -2 to -1 gamma for best depth and a custom -3 if the movie has enough range.with the panny brightness around 48 to 52. with contrast thats your play toy to get the most out of the hp to low you lose day light to high your picture gets hard non film like.with a source like the ruko my brightness settngs drops to the low 40s.with all that said my low black floor can still drop just as low or lower with hdr.remember you have no manual iris with hdr as well as other projectors.what is cool about the epson is the auto mode that i take for granted.looking at the sony thread guys are setting up the source not the pj to get the best out of hdr.example push brightness and contrast in the blue ray player and not on the pj. i will play with this and report back my findings.hope this helps


----------



## terminal33

Oledurt said:


> I recommend using the Natural setting with the custom gamma settings found in this thread. Expanded video range and HDR 2. Calibrate brightness, contrast, and color saturation I use Disney WOW for this.
> 
> I do not use HDR 1 because it clips the whites bad you can see this if you watch the shallows UHD the sea foam as the waves roll over.
> 
> I also use Digital Cinema as well, but since I tweaked the natural settings with the custom gamma and used the settings above I get a very very good picture.
> 
> Give it a try and let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





Oledurt said:


> Brightness 38
> Contrast 81
> Color Saturation 56
> Tint 49
> 
> Medium Lamp Mode
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> My projector is 15 feet away throwing onto a 125 inch 1.1 gain Cinemascope screen in a light controlled room (no ambient light)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Are you still using the above settings? I've been experimenting again, trying to decide whether or not to watch movies in HDR or not. With the custom gamma settings, it has super white ON. But with it "ON" I can't change it to the expanded video range. Is that the same with you?


----------



## webmst

so 2 things I have to ask :
I've seen great posts on settings but after 5,600 posts I have yet to see a complete ISF set of values posted.
So I know many of you have done an excellent job using the tools available from places like www.curtpalme.com but *has anybody actually got a full (as in complete professional , ISF based) calibration for all sources completed and if so could you please publish ?*
I know there are all kinds of screens and rooms and distances and sizes ( years ago I produced the CRT Calibration DVD Featured that is still available through Curt's website for free now)
I just would like to see what the outcome is for you on all the 6040/5030 settings for all your sources.

I already have the Projector Reviews set; some other sets from people here; and a copy of the great set of figures on the "Natural" + gamma set to play with.

Second - lots of posts about the 6040/5040 "whine" and noise, but so far as I can tell no-one else has put a figure to this (mine was 49Db to 51Db from 2m and then 30cm respectively) sound meters on Center-weighted, Slow settings. That was on ECO; no 4K ; no iris; no super white with no material playing after a film (2 hours on).
So that puts the unit outside it's noise performance specifications of 21Db -32Db (as confirmed by Epson over the phone).
It will be interesting to see what they say now they have the unit back (I've yet to hear from them here in Australia about the unit).

*So has anybody else put a sound meter near their projector and if so what noise level is your unit emitting at your working settings at a given distance?*


----------



## db999md

Found something new tonight re: HDR - I have the Samsung UBD-K8500 4k bluray player, and I discovered that the bluray player itself has a brightness control. When you press pause, and go to the icon on the right and press OK, a menu pops up - go to picture settings and then choose user and then you can adjust brightness. I set it all the way up to +10 and initial impression is that it helps HDR playback a lot on this projector.


----------



## covsound1

read the sony 675 forum.i have a samsung 4k blue ray player that i dont use with this pj as it performs best at 444 chroma conversion problems to 422.they did a update to fix it but i replaced with the phillips before that.did you change any other settings to color and contrast as well.


----------



## EL Duke

Are those that are using natural for hdr just wanting the extra brightness? Cant see the point of losing out on WCG when not using digita cinema and cinema but each to there own. Have only found a few films that are abit dark for hdr and for those disks Im keen to try a fury or the oppo player to strip the hdr meta data.


----------



## jorsan

I have a JVC 35B projector for 3 years now. Because WAF and new family room decoration/design, this "big, black and ugly" projector need to be replaced with a new "small and white" one. Because of this, I was thinking to buy the 5040UB. Do you think I will miss my JVC a lot considering picture quality, contrast etc?; thanks in advance.


----------



## elmalloc

jorsan said:


> I have a JVC 35B projector for 3 years now. Because WAF and new family room decoration/design, this "big, black and ugly" projector need to be replaced with a new "small and white" one. Because of this, I was thinking to buy the 5040UB. Do you think I will miss my JVC a lot considering picture quality, contrast etc?; thanks in advance.


The Epson 5040UB is not "small" and is larger than the JVC 35B.


----------



## covsound1

EL Duke said:


> Are those that are using natural for hdr just wanting the extra brightness? Cant see the point of losing out on WCG when not using digita cinema and cinema but each to there own. Have only found a few films that are abit dark for hdr and for those disks Im keen to try a fury or the oppo player to strip the hdr meta data.


i have set up both cinema and natural to equal each other in hdr. the contrast difference is night and day. blacks are darker colors are richer depth is deeper and for a projector out plays my tv in dynamics.with blue rays i can watch natural mode all day.i watched deepwater horizon 1080p from the ruko and was impressed with the image so i got 4k disc expecting greatness. as some else posted it was a let down.i know the information is there but cant see it just a mess.went into the panny and boasted all settings b.c.and color 10.9.10. still needed help from the pj. gamma -2 looked ok but i kenw i could get a little more depth so i did a custom at -3 for low and mid range and left the top end alone.i still had pump up color a little and set contrast for no clipping on the epson.bang now this disc is now one of my reference disc.i have a hd fury and to be honest i hardly ever use the edit 10 for sdr bt2020. hdr on the epson is that good!


----------



## jorsan

elmalloc said:


> The Epson 5040UB is not "small" and is larger than the JVC 35B.


Yes, you are right ! is little bit biger ....


----------



## migsta

*6040UB Manual Adjustments*

Just picked up the 6040UB this past Friday. I'm already sick of having to manually tweak between watching Blu-ray, Blu-ray UHD 4K and TV, etc. And then, you have to remember to go back to Auto on Signal from HDR1 & BT2020 or the picture is messed up when going back to TV for example. So a few things,

We really can't save these Advanced Settings?
Do you use your Epson remote for making these changes
or
Is there a quicker way to make these changes using some other remote

Some scenes are just so dark using HDR1 but I've not messed around with it much from there. I find SDR to be not cinema like when watching a UHD disc. When I manually move from HDR2 to HDR1 or SDR, info still shows HDR2 with BT2020 yet I can see that HDR1 or SDR is being applied based on how the picture changes. Do we really have to change BT2020 from Auto - if left at Auto info shows BT2020.

In Natural mode, I find that looking at a person's hair can tend to show a lot of zany shiny glowing like effect when I watch TV.


----------



## knucklehd

migsta said:


> Just picked up the 6040UB this past Friday. I'm already sick of having to manually tweak between watching Blu-ray, Blu-ray UHD 4K and TV, etc. And then, you have to remember to go back to Auto on Signal from HDR1 & BT2020 or the picture is messed up when going back to TV for example. So a few things,
> 
> We really can't save these Advanced Settings?
> Do you use your Epson remote for making these changes
> or
> Is there a quicker way to make these changes using some other remote
> 
> Some scenes are just so dark using HDR1 but I've not messed around with it much from there. I find SDR to be not cinema like when watching a UHD disc. When I manually move from HDR2 to HDR1 or SDR, info still shows HDR2 with BT2020 yet I can see that HDR1 or SDR is being applied based on how the picture changes. Do we really have to change BT2020 from Auto - if left at Auto info shows BT2020.
> 
> In Natural mode, I find that looking at a person's hair can tend to show a lot of zany shiny glowing like effect when I watch TV.


This is why I leave everything on Auto and I have tweaked my setup for this. I have a memory setting for each viewing mode and I never have to change anything within those auto settings. If you can't make hdr2 work from anyone else's suggested settings then that won't work for you. I finally made it work for me. I also don't like Natural mode because it is actually too bright in some circumstances along with the louder fan. 

So if i am watching normal tv or basically most anything, I have memory 1 setting for saved for that. 
When I watch an HDR movie, I have a memory setting for that. 
You will still tweak your saved setting from time to time until you get them satisfactory, you can have multiple settings for instance, if there is a particularly bad HDR move that needs more whatever adjustment, you can save and name it so you will know to use that for certain types of movies, etc
I use the original remote, it works pretty good actually and is very simple once you save your settings. Even use it to replace the world's worst remote control that comes with the Samsung K8500 player.


----------



## migsta

knucklehd said:


> This is why I leave everything on Auto and I have tweaked my setup for this. I have a memory setting for each viewing mode and I never have to change anything within those auto settings. If you can't make hdr2 work from anyone else's suggested settings then that won't work for you. I finally made it work for me. I also don't like Natural mode because it is actually too bright in some circumstances along with the louder fan.
> 
> So if i am watching normal tv or basically most anything, I have memory 1 setting for saved for that.
> When I watch an HDR movie, I have a memory setting for that.
> You will still tweak your saved setting from time to time until you get them satisfactory, you can have multiple settings for instance, if there is a particularly bad HDR move that needs more whatever adjustment, you can save and name it so you will know to use that for certain types of movies, etc
> I use the original remote, it works pretty good actually and is very simple once you save your settings. Even use it to replace the world's worst remote control that comes with the Samsung K8500 player.


Okay, thanks. So leave all at Auto and never go into Advanced/Signal to change the two settings from Auto. That means Auto should use BT2020 which it does based on what Info tells me. As we know, Auto will use HDR2. What picture mode do you recommend I work with when viewing UHD discs & what key settings will I want to change then to make HDR2 work like HDR1 or better with a selected picture mode.


----------



## wond3rboi

Quick setup question:

I have a 5040ub, Yamaha rx-v379 and an xbox one...I want to upgrade my systems so I can stream 4k HDR from Netflix/Amazon. I currently plan on purchasing the Roku Premiere+ (I think HDR10 is more useful than Dolby Vision because it seems like Dolby Vision has less content). Is there a way for me to avoid having to upgrade my receiver? I'm a theater noob, so I don't know if it's possible to split the signal from the Roku so that audio goes to my receiver and the video (in 4k HDR) goes straight to the projector. My receiver can do 4k passthrough, but I don't think it can do HDR. I know the Roku Ultra has an extra optical port, but I don't know if that helps me...


----------



## Oledurt

webmst said:


> so 2 things I have to ask :
> I've seen great posts on settings but after 5,600 posts I have yet to see a complete ISF set of values posted.
> So I know many of you have done an excellent job using the tools available from places like www.curtpalme.com but *has anybody actually got a full (as in complete professional , ISF based) calibration for all sources completed and if so could you please publish ?*
> I know there are all kinds of screens and rooms and distances and sizes ( years ago I produced the CRT Calibration DVD Featured that is still available through Curt's website for free now)
> I just would like to see what the outcome is for you on all the 6040/5030 settings for all your sources.
> 
> I already have the Projector Reviews set; some other sets from people here; and a copy of the great set of figures on the "Natural" + gamma set to play with.
> 
> Second - lots of posts about the 6040/5040 "whine" and noise, but so far as I can tell no-one else has put a figure to this (mine was 49Db to 51Db from 2m and then 30cm respectively) sound meters on Center-weighted, Slow settings. That was on ECO; no 4K ; no iris; no super white with no material playing after a film (2 hours on).
> So that puts the unit outside it's noise performance specifications of 21Db -32Db (as confirmed by Epson over the phone).
> It will be interesting to see what they say now they have the unit back (I've yet to hear from them here in Australia about the unit).
> 
> *So has anybody else put a sound meter near their projector and if so what noise level is your unit emitting at your working settings at a given distance?*




I will be getting a full ISF Calibration including HDR BT2020. Feb 25th


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

Hd1 is a nice place to visit but not live. Like kuckledheahd posted to use memory slots. You can turn up your contrast brightness and color in your disc player and save a memory slot for that too.after this your brightness should be good enough for you to drop your gamma and stay with in the natural working range of the projector. Sorry didn't link this to correct post.


----------



## rjguk

wond3rboi said:


> Quick setup question:
> 
> I have a 5040ub, Yamaha rx-v379 and an xbox one...I want to upgrade my systems so I can stream 4k HDR from Netflix/Amazon. I currently plan on purchasing the Roku Premiere+ (I think HDR10 is more useful than Dolby Vision because it seems like Dolby Vision has less content). Is there a way for me to avoid having to upgrade my receiver? I'm a theater noob, so I don't know if it's possible to split the signal from the Roku so that audio goes to my receiver and the video (in 4k HDR) goes straight to the projector. My receiver can do 4k passthrough, but I don't think it can do HDR. I know the Roku Ultra has an extra optical port, but I don't know if that helps me...


The RX-V379 is kind of the odd one out, since the higher models in the x79 range do actually hav*e *HDMI 2.0a/HDR capability. One option would be to get a x81 model, but it may still be possible to find a deal on the older range (unless you want Atmos, that was the main change between x79 and x81). I got the V779 at around half the price of the almost-identical 781 (since I wasn't bothered about Atmos).

The alternative may be to use an HDFury device in some creative way, but at the end of the day you'll probably want an AV amp that just takes various inputs and sends them to the output without fuss...


----------



## covsound1

Oledurt said:


> I will be getting a full ISF Calibration including HDR BT2020. Feb 25th
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Will that include your 4K blue ray player


----------



## Oledurt

covsound1 said:


> Will that include your 4K blue ray player


the projector.


----------



## EL Duke

Im interested in what colour temp will be used in pro calibration. The default in natural is 6500 which seems a little to neutral to my tastes. I normally pop it down to 5500 or 5000 as I prefer a warmer picture. Cinema only uses a number and is defualted to 5 but I pressume that is 6500 also. Again I'll drop it down to 4 or 3 depending on source


----------



## EL Duke

covsound1 said:


> i have set up both cinema and natural to equal each other in hdr. the contrast difference is night and day. blacks are darker colors are richer depth is deeper and for a projector out plays my tv in dynamics.with blue rays i can watch natural mode all day.i watched deepwater horizon 1080p from the ruko and was impressed with the image so i got 4k disc expecting greatness. as some else posted it was a let down.i know the information is there but cant see it just a mess.went into the panny and boasted all settings b.c.and color 10.9.10. still needed help from the pj. gamma -2 looked ok but i kenw i could get a little more depth so i did a custom at -3 for low and mid range and left the top end alone.i still had pump up color a little and set contrast for no clipping on the epson.bang now this disc is now one of my reference disc.i have a hd fury and to be honest i hardly ever use the edit 10 for sdr bt2020. hdr on the epson is that good!


Im going to try natural tonight simply as im to intreiged by the custom gamma curve I saw. Which looks absolutely bonkers on paper but I'll give it a bash.


----------



## covsound1

Oledurt said:


> the projector.


I asked because I watched some calman videos.very interested on your impression after you get it done.when you get primary color points correct your desgarded movies will have new life.i am still in learning mode as we have to deal with 709 and p3 in a bt2020 cantainment window not to mention hdr 10.good luck!


----------



## wond3rboi

rjguk said:


> The RX-V379 is kind of the odd one out, since the higher models in the x79 range do actually hav*e *HDMI 2.0a/HDR capability. One option would be to get a x81 model, but it may still be possible to find a deal on the older range (unless you want Atmos, that was the main change between x79 and x81). I got the V779 at around half the price of the almost-identical 781 (since I wasn't bothered about Atmos).
> 
> The alternative may be to use an HDFury device in some creative way, but at the end of the day you'll probably want an AV amp that just takes various inputs and sends them to the output without fuss...


I actual do care about Atmos, but I won't have time to install it until later this year; that's why I was trying to hold off on buying a new receiver. I'm not very familiar with how mature Atmos is, or where receivers could go with it in that time frame.


----------



## wond3rboi

rjguk said:


> The RX-V379 is kind of the odd one out, since the higher models in the x79 range do actually hav*e *HDMI 2.0a/HDR capability. One option would be to get a x81 model, but it may still be possible to find a deal on the older range (unless you want Atmos, that was the main change between x79 and x81). I got the V779 at around half the price of the almost-identical 781 (since I wasn't bothered about Atmos).
> 
> The alternative may be to use an HDFury device in some creative way, but at the end of the day you'll probably want an AV amp that just takes various inputs and sends them to the output without fuss...


I actually do care about Atmos, but I won't have time to install it until later this year; that's why I was trying to hold off on buying a new receiver. I'm not very familiar with how mature Atmos is, or where receivers could go with it in that time frame.


----------



## covsound1

EL Duke said:


> Im going to try natural tonight simply as im to intreiged by the custom gamma curve I saw. Which looks absolutely bonkers on paper but I'll give it a bash.


El Duke
I reread my post that is cinema mode that is my favorite and the only one I use for HDR. Natural just can't compete. I think some like it because of low gain or dark screens.but I will give a thumbs up for 709 stuff or blue rays or watching hdr in the day time with lights on.


----------



## terminal33

covsound1 said:


> i have set up both cinema and natural to equal each other in hdr. the contrast difference is night and day. blacks are darker colors are richer depth is deeper and for a projector out plays my tv in dynamics.with blue rays i can watch natural mode all day.i watched deepwater horizon 1080p from the ruko and was impressed with the image so i got 4k disc expecting greatness. as some else posted it was a let down.i know the information is there but cant see it just a mess.went into the panny and boasted all settings b.c.and color 10.9.10. still needed help from the pj. gamma -2 looked ok but i kenw i could get a little more depth so i did a custom at -3 for low and mid range and left the top end alone.i still had pump up color a little and set contrast for no clipping on the epson.bang now this disc is now one of my reference disc.i have a hd fury and to be honest i hardly ever use the edit 10 for sdr bt2020. hdr on the epson is that good!


What are your settings for Cinema?


----------



## terminal33

EL Duke said:


> Are those that are using natural for hdr just wanting the extra brightness? Cant see the point of losing out on WCG when not using digita cinema and cinema but each to there own. Have only found a few films that are abit dark for hdr and for those disks Im keen to try a fury or the oppo player to strip the hdr meta data.


Right now I am using Natural for the brightness, but I am open for something better. Can you tell me the settings you use? Thanks!


----------



## knucklehd

migsta said:


> Okay, thanks. So leave all at Auto and never go into Advanced/Signal to change the two settings from Auto. That means Auto should use BT2020 which it does based on what Info tells me. As we know, Auto will use HDR2. What picture mode do you recommend I work with when viewing UHD discs & what key settings will I want to change then to make HDR2 work like HDR1 or better with a selected picture mode.


Hey migsta,
Just click the link at the bottom of my signature. That will take you to my post where I described a lot of things that I do and for what reasons. There will always be extreme examples for you to need to force some setting other than auto, but that shouldn't be your norm. Topics already covered are so easy to miss because this thread is so long. There is also a mini wiki for this projector that user seplant started. 
5040ub mini wiki -- click me!


----------



## EL Duke

terminal33 said:


> What are your settings for Cinema?


I tend to stick with auto so hdr2 I use hdr1 sometimes but with these settings tamed abit on the brightness and contrast.
Brightness 67, contrast 65, colour 55, image enhancment 3, colour temp to taste, gamma is custom if u search my posts u should find it. Iris in on highspeed and -5. Super white is on. Power is on medium but if im watching a film and have the sound higher than usual I can get away with high which also brightens up the pic nicely, I am in a dark room also.
Tried the natural setting that are kicking about and I prefer mine from what ive tested so far. Each to there own though.


----------



## terminal33

EL Duke said:


> I tend to stick with auto so hdr2 I use hdr1 sometimes but with these settings tamed abit on the brightness and contrast.
> Brightness 67, contrast 65, colour 55, image enhancment 3, colour temp to taste, gamma is custom if u search my posts u should find it. Iris in on highspeed and -5. Super white is on. Power is on medium but if im watching a film and have the sound higher than usual I can get away with high which also brightens up the pic nicely, I am in a dark room also.
> Tried the natural setting that are kicking about and I prefer mine from what ive tested so far. Each to there own though.


Got it, thanks. Have you tried these settings with Digital Cinema as well?


----------



## covsound1

terminal33 said:


> What are your settings for Cinema?


44/86/57/50 = brightness/contrast/color/tint cinema gamma ok at-2 I run customized -4-3-3-2-1-1 0 0 0. Eco. Signal hdmi range auto, color space auto, dynamic range auto. Image pro fine. Pansy settings contrast 12 brightness 9 color saturation 12 hue 0. Use a dark movie that you did not like because of darkness.


----------



## covsound1

covsound1 said:


> 44/86/57/50 = brightness/contrast/color/tint cinema gamma ok at-2 I run customized -4-3-3-2-1-1 0 0 0. Eco. Signal hdmi range auto, color space auto, dynamic range auto. Image pro fine. Panny settings contrast 12 brightness 9 color saturation 12 hue 0. Use a dark movie that you did not like because of darkness.


Wrong gamma -4 3 3 3 2 2 1 0 0 sorry top one for movies that need no help. I should not post setting when I have plumbers ripping up my rest room to get to a broken pipe. The contrast on the Epson 56 or higher to point of clipping.


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> I will be getting a full ISF Calibration including HDR BT2020. Feb 25th
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




It would be great to hear how knowledgeable you find your calibrator to be with this pj, it being fairly new. I've had a couple of professional calibrations and both times it appeared that the individual missed some important aspects of what the display device could do, so just defaulted to some typical settings. Would like to know if your calibrator takes enough care to look at all capabilities of the 5040.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Evan201 said:


> Well finally.
> 
> Just got the Monoprice Luxe Active 35' and ran it to my my Denon AVR-S510BT.
> Have the Nvidia Shield 2017, Directv 4k, and Xbox One for Blue Ray SDR.
> 
> I'm finally getting the most out of this setup reliably with all devices. The 4k UHD on Netflix and directv 4k channels look great.
> For those interested, you have to reboot the shield in 4k/50 and then switch to 4k/24p every time after a restart on the shield or you won't see the Netflix app show 4k UHD titles.
> 
> After a ton of headaches, I'm finally happy with the results and setup. Even have HDR in Netflix passing through.
> For HDR I used the custom Gamma Natural previously discussed.
> Brightness 53
> Contrast 63
> Color Saturation 55
> The screen is a custom Elite Screens Cinegrey 5d 105"
> Looks awesome.
> 
> free image hosting


Have you tested any 4k60hz content for any period? I've tried several 35'-50' active cables. They work fine at those distances at 4k30hz and 24hz, but at 60hz the screen blacks out intermittently (gaming pc as 4k60hz source). My fiber cable arrives Thursday, fingers crossed.


----------



## elmalloc

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Have you tested any 4k60hz content for any period? I've tried several 35'-50' active cables. They work fine at those distances at 4k30hz and 24hz, but at 60hz the screen blacks out intermittently (gaming pc as 4k60hz source). My fiber cable arrives Thursday, fingers crossed.


Are you taking a fiber cable from your receiver to the projector, or PC directly to projector?

Lastly, does anyone have these issue when using the UBE (wireless) version of transmission?


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

elmalloc said:


> Are you taking a fiber cable from your receiver to the projector, or PC directly to projector?
> 
> Lastly, does anyone have these issue when using the UBE (wireless) version of transmission?


When my fiber cable arrives my setup will be: fiber from PC to receiver, then 6' non-fiber cable from receiver to wireless transmitter, wireless transmitter to projector. I haven't had any issues with my ube other than 4k60 drops, but I'm convinced that's an issue with the length of the connection from my 4k60 source to my system.


----------



## elmalloc

flapjackdowntheline said:


> When my fiber cable arrives my setup will be: fiber from PC to receiver, then 6' non-fiber cable from receiver to wireless transmitter, wireless transmitter to projector. I haven't had any issues with my ube other than 4k60 drops, but I'm convinced that's an issue with the length of the connection from my 4k60 source to my system.


Thanks! You are one of the first to comment on UBE performance concerning 4k in this thread. Oddly it seems everyone here has the UB model and not UBE, it made me think people with UBE are not experiencing any issues.

How about we have short fiber cables from all sources, into wireless transmitter - and an optical cable (audio) from wireless transmitter to receiver? See any issues if I go down that route with UBE? This eliminates multiple cabling and receiver processing potential issues.

Also what *sources *are you utilizing? I have not purchased the PJ yet. I'm thinking of Nvidia Shield TV (instead of Roku/etc) after speaking with some forum members via PM. I suppose I'd also pick up a PS4 Pro to try and get 4K games? It seems like people are having problems with HDR in general and the Oppo 203, I've seen the "Philips" player mentioned here a few times. 

Hard to tell in this thread if UHD is worth it considering all the talk about 4K enhancement over BDs looking nearly as good?

Thanks!


----------



## dholmes54

Having a ISF guy calibrate your projector would only work if the tech came to your home to do it,wouldn't work if you took it somewhere because of your type of screen and room you have correct? Asking this because I live in the middle of no where!


----------



## elmalloc

dholmes54 said:


> Having a ISF guy calibrate your projector would only work if the tech came to your home to do it,wouldn't work if you took it somewhere because of your type of screen and room you have correct? Asking this because I live in the middle of no where!


Correct.


----------



## Gabre

Hi, 
can I jump in with a question. I currently own 5020UB. 

few days ago I went to a dealer nearby that had a dedicated treated room for projector presentations, and they had 3 projectors in there. The Epson 6040, JVC X45, and Sony HW45
What I first noticed that I dont see any noticable diference in image quality compared to my 5020 to be honest, same general look. And this was 6040, not 5040. I wonder did Epson even change their LCD panels att all in last few years, or have they been just adding software features, etc. 

Then, he switched to JVC. Now that is one big upgrade and diference in PQ. Noticably MUCH MUCH better contrast, picture is punchier, blacks are better, better details, everything. Almost 3D look to it. 
I made sure that the setting would be similar on all of them, and not some artificial dynamic contrast, etc. 

Then we tried Sony as well, which is lacking in everything behind these two, but still very decent (if you havent seen JVC right before it hehe ) 
what brings me to the question of price. Epsons price for 5040 is the same or even more expensive then JVC (im in canada), which makes absolutely no sense as these two PJ cant even go into same sentence not to say same price bracket. 

Has Epson lost his game or they are milking the market with their name today? 

Id like to see forums opinion on their pricing 

Thanks


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

elmalloc said:


> Thanks! You are one of the first to comment on UBE performance concerning 4k in this thread. Oddly it seems everyone here has the UB model and not UBE, it made me think people with UBE are not experiencing any issues.
> 
> How about we have short fiber cables from all sources, into wireless transmitter - and an optical cable (audio) from wireless transmitter to receiver? See any issues if I go down that route with UBE? This eliminates multiple cabling and receiver processing potential issues.
> 
> Also what *sources *are you utilizing? I have not purchased the PJ yet. I'm thinking of Nvidia Shield TV (instead of Roku/etc) after speaking with some forum members via PM. I suppose I'd also pick up a PS4 Pro to try and get 4K games? It seems like people are having problems with HDR in general and the Oppo 203, I've seen the "Philips" player mentioned here a few times.
> 
> Hard to tell in this thread if UHD is worth it considering all the talk about 4K enhancement over BDs looking nearly as good?
> 
> Thanks!


I tried bypassing my receiver to see if it was the receiver that was causing the issue (even bought another receiver!). I went PC to wireless transmitter with a 35' cable, then audio out from wireless transmitter to receiver. Sill got the same dropouts. Either it's the cable (which is what I suspect), or something's wrong with my pj.

My current sources:
Gaming PC (Titan X)
PS4
XBO (original)
Tivo Bolt


----------



## DubDriver17

For the 5040UB owners here:

I have read through the forum and seen issues that are discussed.

In general, are you overall happy with your purchase, or would you go another way if you could do it over again?


----------



## welldun

DubDriver17 said:


> For the 5040UB owners here:
> 
> I have read through the forum and seen issues that are discussed.
> 
> In general, are you overall happy with your purchase, or would you go another way if you could do it over again?


Overall happy with 5040ub.


----------



## airbag41

Just got my 5040ube and had a couple quick questions. Apologize in advance for the basic questions:

1) I"m struggling with a good setup for the settings for cable HD, Blu Ray, HDR / UHD content. I have searched the forum for some settings but has any risen above the rest?

2) For HDR content, do you always have to switch in the settings to HDR 1 or 2 or can you assign by input a image setting so I don't have to change it each time as I switch content?

Thanks!


----------



## jsrdlr

Looks like I'll be joining the 6040UB club! We're looking at a 135" screen in my 23'x13' HT room. No windows so ambient light will not be a problem. Phillips 4k Bluray player and Integra DRX 2 receiver. I'm assuming my installer will route everything through the Integra but I honestly don't know yet. Install isn't until March 20. They say patience is a virtue...

Extremely excited though. I've wanted a PJ for a very long time but kept settling for TV's. Last house had a 73" Mitsu rear DLP that was great, but not the same as a PJ. We had considered a 1080 PJ for now but ultimately decided to run with the 6040 and upgrade whenever prices for true 4k are reasonable.


----------



## sddp

jsrdlr said:


> Looks like I'll be joining the 6040UB club! We're looking at a 135" screen in my 23'x13' HT room. No windows so ambient light will not be a problem. Phillips 4k Bluray player and Integra DRX 2 receiver. I'm assuming my installer will route everything through the Integra but I honestly don't know yet. Install isn't until March 20. They say patience is a virtue...
> 
> Extremely excited though. I've wanted a PJ for a very long time but kept settling for TV's. Last house had a 73" Mitsu rear DLP that was great, but not the same as a PJ. We had considered a 1080 PJ for now but ultimately decided to run with the 6040 and upgrade whenever prices for true 4k are reasonable.











You'll be pleasantly surprised. I went from the Mits 73, to the 92". And was quite happy but wanted to venture into the 4K/HDR world. But wanted to go bigger on the screen size evolution of things. And couldn't quite afford a physical HDTV larger than a 92", I think the 100" and above at 4K start around 50K. And so far there's no such thing as a 150" 4K/HDR/3D HDTV. And if there was, it would be quite expensive. So my 5040ube was the perfect solution. It is as good if not a tad better than my Mits 92".


The only problem I have now, is that I have to watch all of my movie collection ALL over again. Which will take about 5+ years. In which There's be some other technological advancement of 8K Dolby Gold View (No such thing but I am sure if Dolby Vision comes out with something better, it'll be a Gold or Platinum version or something like that) on a clear screen in 4D with some new higher number of channels of Dolby Atmos of 10.4.16.4


----------



## EL Duke

covsound1 said:


> 44/86/57/50 = brightness/contrast/color/tint cinema gamma ok at-2 I run customized -4-3-3-2-1-1 0 0 0. Eco. Signal hdmi range auto, color space auto, dynamic range auto. Image pro fine. Pansy settings contrast 12 brightness 9 color saturation 12 hue 0. Use a dark movie that you did not like because of darkness.


Tried out my settings but having the panny uhd player I adjusted the brightness, contrast and colour in the player settings and just raising the brightness by 2, contrast by 4 and colour by 5 Im finding the extra pop real nice. Cheers for the suggestion!


----------



## Eric_Connelly

DubDriver17 said:


> For the 5040UB owners here:
> 
> I have read through the forum and seen issues that are discussed.
> 
> In general, are you overall happy with your purchase, or would you go another way if you could do it over again?


Happy?

Ecstatic is more like it. I do kind of think about waiting for the new JVC with its game mode however I have a fully finished basement and my joists do not run the right way to easily run a cable so the UBE model was a must have.

The issues with it I think relate more to the technology implementation across all the products rather than just with the projector itself. I tried to solve one problem, fixed 90 percent, made 1 part worse. 

Considering my total investment for the PJ and a 120 inch screen was less than my first 60" HDTV it has delivered a lot of enjoyment.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

I upgraded my AVR to a Yamaha RX-A3060 today in hopes of reducing the input jungle I had in the back. So now instead of this being plugged in here or there depending on if it needed HDCP support it now all plugs into the AVR.

This was huge because the PJ as soon as it didn't not see anything at all on inputs would switch to my Roku which was plugged in direct to the wireless transmitter. Not the end of the world but if you have one its a good 30-50 seconds to swap over to another input and have it sync up.

So I am down to 2 problems, one of them pretty severe.

1. Roku Netflix. Netflix introduced video preview after you sit on one of their show icons for more than 5 seconds or so. The PJ flips out over this. It re-handshakes every single time it starts or stops. So if you pause over a TV show the screen goes black and it takes 10 seconds for it to come back. Move over a step, black video for 10 seconds, syncs, then black video again while the video starts to play. I have no found no setting to turn off the preview which I don't want anyways.

2. I am still not getting HDR on Amazon or Netflix, is this Roku related also? I only get 8 bit no matter what I set it to. My PS4 reports that HDR is only available in 2K, not 4K, no matter what setting I change. I have the Roku set to 4K 10bit.

I have the AVR set to straight pass through.

At this point I just want a single device that will play Netflix/Amazon in HDR. 

Should I just buy a Shield, have people had better luck?


----------



## Natrix1973

Eric_Connelly said:


> I upgraded my AVR to a Yamaha RX-A3060 today in hopes of reducing the input jungle I had in the back. So now instead of this being plugged in here or there depending on if it needed HDCP support it now all plugs into the AVR.
> 
> This was huge because the PJ as soon as it didn't not see anything at all on inputs would switch to my Roku which was plugged in direct to the wireless transmitter. Not the end of the world but if you have one its a good 30-50 seconds to swap over to another input and have it sync up.
> 
> So I am down to 2 problems, one of them pretty severe.
> 
> 1. Roku Netflix. Netflix introduced video preview after you sit on one of their show icons for more than 5 seconds or so. The PJ flips out over this. It re-handshakes every single time it starts or stops. So if you pause over a TV show the screen goes black and it takes 10 seconds for it to come back. Move over a step, black video for 10 seconds, syncs, then black video again while the video starts to play. I have no found no setting to turn off the preview which I don't want anyways.
> 
> 2. I am still not getting HDR on Amazon or Netflix, is this Roku related also? I only get 8 bit no matter what I set it to. My PS4 reports that HDR is only available in 2K, not 4K, no matter what setting I change. I have the Roku set to 4K 10 bit and it shows up fine.
> 
> I have the AVR set to straight pass through.
> 
> At this point I just want a single device that will play Netflix/Amazon in HDR.
> 
> Should I just buy a Shield, have people had better luck?



I believe you need to change the 3060 HDMI mode to Mode 1 in the advanced settings to increase the bandwidth passed through it if you haven't already. I know the 3050 I have has that option to change. I don't know if that will help with the Roku issues but it does work with the PS4 and Shield.


----------



## rupedogg24

This puppy arrived today. Will hook it up later and give my impressions.









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## jsrdlr

sddp said:


> You'll be pleasantly surprised. I went from the Mits 73, to the 92". And was quite happy but wanted to venture into the 4K/HDR world. But wanted to go bigger on the screen size evolution of things. And couldn't quite afford a physical HDTV larger than a 92", I think the 100" and above at 4K start around 50K. And so far there's no such thing as a 150" 4K/HDR/3D HDTV. And if there was, it would be quite expensive. So my 5040ube was the perfect solution. It is as good if not a tad better than my Mits 92".
> 
> 
> The only problem I have now, is that I have to watch all of my movie collection ALL over again. Which will take about 5+ years. In which There's be some other technological advancement of 8K Dolby Gold View (No such thing but I am sure if Dolby Vision comes out with something better, it'll be a Gold or Platinum version or something like that) on a clear screen in 4D with some new higher number of channels of Dolby Atmos of 10.4.16.4


----------



## Eric_Connelly

Natrix1973 said:


> I believe you need to change the 3060 HDMI mode to Mode 1 in the advanced settings to increase the bandwidth passed through it if you haven't already. I know the 3050 I have has that option to change. I don't know if that will help with the Roku issues but it does work with the PS4 and Shield.


Thanks I did change it to Mode 1, still only see 2K HDR option in PS4 and the Roku did not make a difference, same with Netflix.

Still sounded like I needed to change it anyways. I might pick up a Shield if it will help out with some of these oddball issues.


----------



## dholmes54

rupedogg24 said:


> This puppy arrived today. Will hook it up later and give my impressions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Sorry if this is a dumb question what is that?


----------



## rupedogg24

dholmes54 said:


> Sorry if this is a dumb question what is that?


HDfury Integral. Allows me to strip the HDR Metadata from a 4K bluray but keep the WCG bt2020 color. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs


----------



## hatlesschimp




----------



## schmidtwi

DubDriver17 said:


> For the 5040UB owners here:
> 
> I have read through the forum and seen issues that are discussed.
> 
> In general, are you overall happy with your purchase, or would you go another way if you could do it over again?


 

Extremely happy, and would do it over again every time. Fantastic PJ - likely the best picture for this price.




.


----------



## whmacs

DubDriver17 said:


> For the 5040UB owners here:
> 
> I have read through the forum and seen issues that are discussed.
> 
> In general, are you overall happy with your purchase, or would you go another way if you could do it over again?


Hi DubDriver17,
Only received my 9300W (6040UBE) yesterday. I've had DLP projectors for the last 13 years and I never thought a 3 Panel LCD projector could be sharper that a single chip DLP. Yesterday I was proven wrong. You could almost cut your finger on how sharp the image was (Panasonic UB900 upscaling Blu-ray (Guardians of the Galaxy)) to 4K. Ultra 4K blu-rays are even sharper. A HDFury Integral strips HDR and WCG. I was then using the Epson wireless transmitter to send the 4K signal to the 9300W. The only way I could block the signal was to put my hand over the transmitter. Walking around in the room had no effect. Very impressed!

I have not played around with any settings yet and was running it straight out of the box (bright cinema, medium lamp mode). Brightness and contrast was around 3x better than my Infocus SP-8602 DLP. Also colours where richer and popped more than the DLP.

To put things in perspective I have white walls so I need brightness and punch to get a good picture (see my galley here):
http://www.stephenmacmillan.com/ht/gallery.htm
If I had a bat cave then I might have considered the JVC, but I also really wanted the wireless transmitter and the sharpness the 9300W is known for. 

My wife and three kids who have watched many a movie on my previous projectors. All stated it was a major step up in picture quality and just like watching a TV (from a brightness, contrast, sharpness and colour perspective).

Anyway, I've only had one night with the 9300W, but so far it has exceeded my expectations.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## john barlow

schmidtwi said:


> Extremely happy, and would do it over again every time. Fantastic PJ - likely the best picture for this price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Industry reviewers have stated that this projector elevates Epson to high end status for home theater projectors. All for under 3k!


----------



## rupedogg24

hatlesschimp said:


> https://youtu.be/Jd0SwLKHDWw


Have you figured out how to do a panel alignment? Wld love a video on how that works. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

rupedogg24 said:


> Have you figured out how to do a panel alignment? Wld love a video on how that works.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


I havent messed with that yet but when I looked at it appeared to be pretty straight forward. I remember having a play with the JVC x7000 and found it pretty easy. I will make one soon for ya thanks.

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

EL Duke said:


> Tried out my settings but having the panny uhd player I adjusted the brightness, contrast and colour in the player settings and just raising the brightness by 2, contrast by 4 and colour by 5 Im finding the extra pop real nice. Cheers for the suggestion!


EL duke i will try that. i will take pictures next time as i made errors posting and felt bad about that.i would also like to thank aaranddeeman for posting a full calibration for the forum his colors are really good others should take a look at his setttings.i will try you panny settings with your gamma settings with john wick.


----------



## sddp

rupedogg24 said:


> HDfury Integral. Allows me to strip the HDR Metadata from a 4K bluray but keep the WCG bt2020 color.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk




Sorry if this also sounds dumb, but what is the advantage of stripping HDR metadata from a 4K? (and is it really worth it? on a 150" Cinegrey 3D screen?)
Wouldn't you want all of the HDR on a 4K in all it's glory on this PJ?


----------



## rupedogg24

sddp said:


> Sorry if this also sounds dumb, but what is the advantage of stripping HDR metadata from a 4K?
> Wouldn't you want all of the HDR on a 4K in all it's glory on this PJ?


Nah. HDR hasn't panned out for me on this projector as it has for others. I actually turned it off a few months back. It's all about the color space as far as I know that makes the picture pop. Stripping the HDR and keeping the bt2020 color space is my preference. 

Plus I do not have a bat cave like others. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

whmacs said:


> Hi DubDriver17,
> Only received my 9300W (6040UBE) yesterday. I've had DLP projectors for the last 13 years and I never thought a 3 Panel LCD projector could be sharper that a single chip DLP. Yesterday I was proven wrong. You could almost cut your finger on how sharp the image was (Panasonic UB900 upscaling Blu-ray (Guardians of the Galaxy)) to 4K. Ultra 4K blu-rays are even sharper. A HDFury Integral strips HDR and WCG. I was then using the Epson wireless transmitter to send the 4K signal to the 9300W. The only way I could block the signal was to put my hand over the transmitter. Walking around in the room had no effect. Very impressed!
> 
> I have not played around with any settings yet and was running it straight out of the box (bright cinema, medium lamp mode). Brightness and contrast was around 3x better than my Infocus SP-8602 DLP. Also colours where richer and popped more than the DLP.
> 
> To put things in perspective I have white walls so I need brightness and punch to get a good picture (see my galley here):
> http://www.stephenmacmillan.com/ht/gallery.htm
> If I had a bat cave then I might have considered the JVC, but I also really wanted the wireless transmitter and the sharpness the 9300W is known for.
> 
> My wife and three kids who have watched many a movie on my previous projectors. All stated it was a major step up in picture quality and just like watching a TV (from a brightness, contrast, sharpness and colour perspective).
> 
> Anyway, I've only had one night with the 9300W, but so far it has exceeded my expectations.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


One of the best posts/summaries in this thread, answering many questions I've posed but didn't get any answer for (lol). You addressed which BD player you're using, what the Fury is used for, how effective the wireless communication is, etc.

Question though, are you having your Panasonic BD player upscale or letting the projector do 4K enhancement?

I've read Oppo 203 is a bit troublesome and people were looking at other BD players (Philips/Panasonic), but I've had no luck in getting more information on that. I see HatlessChip is using the Oppo though.


----------



## EL Duke

hatlesschimp said:


> https://youtu.be/Jd0SwLKHDWw


Could you share what settings you are using when gaming please?


----------



## rogermoore123

A question for the owners of the samsung player with the latest firmware -
If SDR is set in the dynamic range menu in the projector do you still receive the color space 2020 in the signal info menu for UHD bluray ?


----------



## EL Duke

hatlesschimp said:


> https://youtu.be/Jd0SwLKHDWw


When you are zoomed out for the larger pic could you not just use the blanking feature to cut the excess instead of it overlapping the screen?


----------



## john barlow

To those who are jumping ship or naysayers that don't own this unit and seem to know everything about it, in spite of not having the pleasure of getting to know this new class of Home Theater projector. As far as I'm concerned, Epson did me and all owners a solid, by introducing this game changing imaging device to we, who could not previously shell out several thousand dollars for a high end projector. The Epson 5040UB is a high end projector. The thing about high end audio or video devices is, they come with a learning curve. When your resolution becomes this good, bad content becomes glaringly awful at times. I found this out back in the day during my obsession with High end, two channel audio. I had to read reams of reviews and spend countless hours in forums, in my quest to master the high end. Impedance matching between preamp and amplifier was a real brain teaser for me. Choosing the best sounding vintage vacuum tubes. Choosing speakers as well. This is the level where even swapping out power cords can make a perceptible difference, believe it or not. So, from my own experience, I've learned that patience is a virtue with exceptionally good pieces of audio gear. I'm here to pick the brains of fellow cinema lovers that have similar set up systems, in order to get the most from my viewing and listening experience. I have no interest in feeding trolls.


----------



## elmalloc

You should probably reference who you're talking to as I don't see a lot of naysayers in this thread. I think many of us come from the "swapping out power cords" crowd, too. With audio, you don't know what you've got until it's gone. I let my Epson 8100 go a long time ago only to pick up the 8350 as a replacement. I'm here for the 5040UBE, now.


----------



## GregCh

sddp said:


> Sorry if this also sounds dumb, but what is the advantage of stripping HDR metadata from a 4K? (and is it really worth it? on a 150" Cinegrey 3D screen?)
> Wouldn't you want all of the HDR on a 4K in all it's glory on this PJ?


HDR is really only half-baked for most budget projectors.

Current HDR is all about color volume. Color saturation at various gamma levels. The problem with most projectors including the Epson is that they don't have the wide color space at the brighter levels. There isn't near enough dynamic range on these projectors to handle current HDR10. Maybe Dolby Vision will help this somewhat by providing better ranges of brightness in the variable metadata that is more suited to projection. But most of these projectors don't even support Dolby Vision. 

Some owners strip the metadata, so that they can at least use BT2020 and a wider color space at the lower brightness levels. This really isn't an Epson problem per se, it is more of a problem due to no realistic HDR spec for projectors. Most likely you won't get close to what flat panels produce for HDR unless you are spending upwards of $30K for your projector.


----------



## john barlow

elmalloc said:


> You should probably reference who you're talking to as I don't see a lot of naysayers in this thread. I think many of us come from the "swapping out power cords" crowd, too. With audio, you don't know what you've got until it's gone. I let my Epson 8100 go a long time ago only to pick up the 8350 as a replacement. I'm here for the 5040UBE, now.


Like I said, I don't feed trolls and I don't see anything useful about making things personal between myself and other AVS members. I do realize that we live in a society that demands instant gratification but, when it comes to our hobby, sometimes the road is bumpy. My main reason for the post was to reassure prospective Epson buyers that this is indeed a fine piece of gear and I feel it's worth taking the time to learn to get the best out of it because, It's a highly resolving projector powerhouse, that in my opinion ranks with manufacturers of high end optics. Trolling members and playing gotcha, belongs on Facebook or reality TV.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

I am disappointed in the HDR issue but the flip side HDR is not as important to me to go down to 85" screen and a physical TV.

Also, nobody else seems to be doing it right so its not like we got ripped off by buying this brand because it sucks at HDR, seems a lot do unless as another post said your spending tons of money.

If every other PJ was doing it right at this price then I'd say something but when I turned it on it is every bit as good, if not better, at 120" than my Sony 900B was at 79" and cost about 1/3 the price.

Every single projector concern I had went away when I started to watch this. Yes on crappy content it is worse, i.e. DirectTv is very soft, but good content its far superior but that would be true if I had a 120" flat panel, only so much information and when you make it bigger, it looks worse.

With this HD Fury you get the better color space with the brightness? What exactly is HDR meta data? I figured it was the extra data to make up the difference between 8 bit and 10/12 bit color space. Something that rode on top of the 8 bit stuff to keep compatibility.

I got my Shield to work with HDR at 24hz but the pic is too dark and I'm in a flat very light controlled room. I'd be interested in one if it helps and also if it is a single connection.


----------



## elmalloc

It seems like the first post in this thread has a lot of good updated info on what the Fury is used for/why, etc. that I see the same questions repeated in the thread go unanswered (mine included).


----------



## mycview2

Have made some progress since last post, going to buy a 5040 and had some questions:

1) Projector will be about 2 feet off center horizontally, the 5040's lens shift should work fine in correcting this yes?

2) Screen will be about 20 feet away - is 120" screen a good size to optimize around?


----------



## elmalloc

john barlow said:


> Like I said, I don't feed trolls and I don't see anything useful about making things personal between myself and other AVS members. I do realize that we live in a society that demands instant gratification but, when it comes to our hobby, sometimes the road is bumpy. My main reason for the post was to reassure prospective Epson buyers that this is indeed a fine piece of gear and I feel it's worth taking the time to learn to get the best out of it because, It's a highly resolving projector powerhouse, that in my opinion ranks with manufacturers of high end optics. Trolling members and playing gotcha, belongs on Facebook or reality TV.


That's cool and all but you basically dropped a bomb on everyone by saying that.. lol. I get your point that this projector is nice, I don't know if I'd say it's another "class", Epson has always had good stuff that was worth every penny (bang for the buck and more). Perhaps you are saying it's now reaching into the higher end territory (where projectors 5K+ used to live).

There is no smooth road in Audio and Video, at some point you will be back to AVS looking for the next best thing. I was able to stay away for a few years, lol.

There certainly are some here that would prefer another projector in the same price range, but that's just their opinion. It really is all an opinion anyway. e.g. the JVC may have higher contrast but lower perceived sharpness because of how pixel shifting is implemented against a higher fill rate. Also, perhaps the few (5-10ish?) MS the Epson does better than JVC's 2017 models is enough for a gamer to go to Epson. Or they don't have enough throw distance (as in my case) to look elsewhere.


----------



## elmalloc

mycview2 said:


> Have made some progress since last post, going to buy a 5040 and had some questions:
> 
> 1) Projector will be about 2 feet off center horizontally, the 5040's lens shift should work fine in correcting this yes?
> 
> 2) Screen will be about 20 feet away - is 120" screen a good size to optimize around?


I like to use ProjectionCentral's calculator for a projector to see throw distances/etc:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

For 20ft away (front of lens to screen), the Epson 5040UB can project a 97"-204" 16x9 image. You're at 31fL at that distance in a dark room for 120".

The Epson has a +/- 47% horizontal shift, so you should be able to place it 2ft off center with a 120" image.

The screen size is really more dependent on where your seating distance is.


----------



## john barlow

elmalloc said:


> That's cool and all but you basically dropped a bomb on everyone by saying that.. lol. I get your point that this projector is nice, I don't know if I'd say it's another "class", Epson has always had good stuff that was worth every penny (bang for the buck and more). Perhaps you are saying it's now reaching into the higher end territory (where projectors 5K+ used to live).
> 
> There is no smooth road in Audio and Video, at some point you will be back to AVS looking for the next best thing. I was able to stay away for a few years, lol.
> 
> There certainly are some here that would prefer another projector in the same price range, but that's just their opinion. It really is all an opinion anyway. e.g. the JVC may have higher contrast but lower perceived sharpness because of how pixel shifting is implemented against a higher fill rate. Also, perhaps the few (5-10ish?) MS the Epson does better than JVC's 2017 models is enough for a gamer to go to Epson. Or they don't have enough throw distance (as in my case) to look elsewhere.


In today's consumer electronics market it seems you always have to compromise one feature for another when choosing a model or brand. The important feature for me has always been lens memory and zooming to cinema-scope. My first two pj's were the Panny AE4000U and AE8000U. Loved both of them. The Epson 5040 and 6040 have indeed entered high end territory when I consider the feature set and the PQ that I am able to flesh out with my unit is truly spectacular and that's why for me, it's high end. Even though the price doesn't reflect that. I've had my unit for just over a month or so. I've already purchased 25 UHD discs. Love most of them. My favorite right now being Trolls. The PQ on this unit has my jaw on the floor. Mind blowing colors, sound and luminescence.


----------



## LumensLover

john barlow said:


> In today's consumer electronics market it seems you always have to compromise one feature for another when choosing a model or brand. The important feature for me has always been lens memory and zooming to cinema-scope. My first two pj's were the Panny AE4000U and AE8000U. Loved both of them. The Epson 5040 and 6040 have indeed entered high end territory when I consider the feature set and the PQ that I am able to flesh out with my unit is truly spectacular and that's why for me, it's high end. Even though the price doesn't reflect that. I've had my unit for just over a month or so. I've already purchased 25 UHD discs. Love most of them. My favorite right now being Trolls. The PQ on this unit has my jaw on the floor. Mind blowing colors, sound and luminescence.


Mind blowing sound from a projector with no onboard speakers?


----------



## LumensLover

john barlow said:


> To those who are jumping ship or naysayers that don't own this unit and seem to know everything about it, in spite of not having the pleasure of getting to know this new class of Home Theater projector. As far as I'm concerned, Epson did me and all owners a solid, by introducing this game changing imaging device to we, who could not previously shell out several thousand dollars for a high end projector. The Epson 5040UB is a high end projector. The thing about high end audio or video devices is, they come with a learning curve. When your resolution becomes this good, bad content becomes glaringly awful at times. I found this out back in the day during my obsession with High end, two channel audio. I had to read reams of reviews and spend countless hours in forums, in my quest to master the high end. Impedance matching between preamp and amplifier was a real brain teaser for me. Choosing the best sounding vintage vacuum tubes. Choosing speakers as well. This is the level where even swapping out power cords can make a perceptible difference, believe it or not. So, from my own experience, I've learned that patience is a virtue with exceptionally good pieces of audio gear. I'm here to pick the brains of fellow cinema lovers that have similar set up systems, in order to get the most from my viewing and listening experience. I have no interest in feeding trolls.


Swapping out power cords for "better sound" is the fodder of snake oil saleman. Absolutely no scientific evidence to support such a thing.


----------



## LumensLover

Gabre said:


> Hi,
> can I jump in with a question. I currently own 5020UB.
> 
> few days ago I went to a dealer nearby that had a dedicated treated room for projector presentations, and they had 3 projectors in there. The Epson 6040, JVC X45, and Sony HW45
> What I first noticed that I dont see any noticable diference in image quality compared to my 5020 to be honest, same general look. And this was 6040, not 5040. I wonder did Epson even change their LCD panels att all in last few years, or have they been just adding software features, etc.
> 
> Then, he switched to JVC. Now that is one big upgrade and diference in PQ. Noticably MUCH MUCH better contrast, picture is punchier, blacks are better, better details, everything. Almost 3D look to it.
> I made sure that the setting would be similar on all of them, and not some artificial dynamic contrast, etc.
> 
> Then we tried Sony as well, which is lacking in everything behind these two, but still very decent (if you havent seen JVC right before it hehe )
> what brings me to the question of price. Epsons price for 5040 is the same or even more expensive then JVC (im in canada), which makes absolutely no sense as these two PJ cant even go into same sentence not to say same price bracket.
> 
> Has Epson lost his game or they are milking the market with their name today?
> 
> Id like to see forums opinion on their pricing
> 
> Thanks


I owned the Epson 6040UB. The blacks were ok but paled in comparison to the JVC RS400 I later purchased within the same price range. The 6040 looked really good with 4k content however it looked equally as bad with non 4k content.

The motorized zoom feature is not trustworthy to me and numerous 6040/5040 owners have reported problems with lens memory on their units. I do not think the 5040 nor the 6040 are worth their current price points.

The 6040's picture quality is discernably inferior to the entry level JVC RS400/420 at the same price point.


----------



## rupedogg24

So I had a few minutes to play with the HDfury Integral and I have to say I'm really liking it. For me it's made a big difference. 

*My Setup:*

*Cables:*
25 ft Ultra Clarity Cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016WM5AG8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Monoprice Certified HDMI Cables - https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15427

Screen - 140' 16x9 DIY spandex screen

*Components*
PS4/Roku P+/Gaming PC/Chromecast/Fios Cable > All connected to Onkyo RZ1100 > Integral slot 1

Philips BRD > Integral slot 2 (Philips HDMI Audio out to RZ1100)

HDfury Intergral is set to EDID 10 - 4k/60-420 12-bit BT.2020FS

I will add pictures later although I do not believe that my cell phone will capture the TRUE difference. I have given up on HDR for now and the Integral was definitely the right solution. I had turned off HDR on the Philips but was only receiving rec.709 color space. 

The difference with the HDfury is noticeable to my eyes. The picture pops a little more. It looks slightly sharper. slightly. 

I need to find a way to tame the whites. The picture feels like it's jumping off the screen bright as hell during bright scenes. But (and it's a big but) with the brightness of picture the black levels seem to have gotten better. Again, I'm not looking at it with a meter I'm just stating what my eyes can see, and they tell me that black levels have lowered with the Integral in the chain stripping the HDR from the 4k blurays. 

*Movies Watched during my quick test*
Lucy and The Shallows

My EPSON settings
Color Mode - Natural
Brightness - 50
Contrast - 53
Color sat - 55
Tint - 52
Gamma - 0

everything else unchanged. 

I highly recommend spending the extra cash on an Integral if you are on the fence with HDR. Shipping was amazingly fast as well.


----------



## john barlow

LumensLover said:


> Swapping out power cords for "better sound" is the fodder of snake oil saleman. Absolutely no scientific evidence to support such a thing.


If you choose to believe that, I will not try to convince you. Back in the day I had a high end 2 channel system. The cabling alone retailed for over 26k. I think the whole system retailed for around 150k. Let me tell you at this level of resolution, cables do make an audible difference. A good power conditioner like a Furman can lower your noise floor, thereby sounds you may have never heard before are now audible. I'm a firm believer in choosing systems all the way down to power cords.


----------



## john barlow

LumensLover said:


> Mind blowing sound from a projector with no onboard speakers?


I was referring to the soundtrack on most HD discs. Please pardon the faux pas, I've been going back and forth between the 5040UB and Oppo 203 player thread and I mention quality for PQ and sound from a disc whether I'm in this thread or the Oppo. I'll be more specific in the future. Sorry. At least you got to say gotcha. Lol.


----------



## whmacs

elmalloc said:


> One of the best posts/summaries in this thread, answering many questions I've posed but didn't get any answer for (lol). You addressed which BD player you're using, what the Fury is used for, how effective the wireless communication is, etc.
> 
> Question though, are you having your Panasonic BD player upscale or letting the projector do 4K enhancement?
> 
> I've read Oppo 203 is a bit troublesome and people were looking at other BD players (Philips/Panasonic), but I've had no luck in getting more information on that. I see HatlessChip is using the Oppo though.


Hi Elmalloc,
Thanks, really just dumping my first impressions. As I mentioned above, I'm pleasantly surprised how good the picture is on this projector without me even starting to fiddle with any settings. All the 'buy a JVC, its better' comments had me set some low expectations 

The Panasonic is doing the upscaling to 4K sending it through the HDFury then to the wireless transmitter. I use a 10 metre powered HDMI cable between the HDFury and wireless transmitter without issue. I also have an Oppo 103D that is hardwired to the 9300W via a DVDO 1080p video processor and 15metre powered HDMI cable. The Oppo is outputting 1080p and the 9300W is upscaling to 4k. I have not had a change to do a close comparison between the upscaling of the Panasonic vs the 9300W, but from memory they both looked very good. I'll take a closer look this weekend. 

When I start fiddling, I get the HDFury Integral to stop blocking wide colour gamut and see how that looks. 

I can't comment on the Oppo 203 as I don't own one, but the Panasonic UB900 has been excellent (owned it for 6 months) and had zero issues with it. 

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## spirithockey79

covsound1 said:


> EL duke i will try that. i will take pictures next time as i made errors posting and felt bad about that.i would also like to thank aaranddeeman for posting a full calibration for the forum his colors are really good others should take a look at his setttings.i will try you panny settings with your gamma settings with john wick.




Do you happen to know the post # for aaranddeeman's settings? I've tried to search but not having much luck. Thanks


----------



## seplant

spirithockey79 said:


> Do you happen to know the post # for aaranddeeman's settings? I've tried to search but not having much luck. Thanks


I think you'll find aaranddeeman's settings in post #3943. It is listed in the mini-wiki in my signature. Note that I haven't been keeping that updated lately. Anyone who wants to pick that up, feel free!


----------



## LumensLover

john barlow said:


> I was referring to the soundtrack on most HD discs. Please pardon the faux pas, I've been going back and forth between the 5040UB and Oppo 203 player thread and I mention quality for PQ and sound from a disc whether I'm in this thread or the Oppo. I'll be more specific in the future. Sorry. At least you got to say gotcha. Lol.


Sorry about the tone of my post. Not trying to get you in any way. I just wanted to make sure I understood where you were coming from on the projector.


----------



## aaranddeeman

spirithockey79 said:


> Do you happen to know the post # for aaranddeeman's settings? I've tried to search but not having much luck. Thanks


See my signature below..


----------



## EL Duke

rupedogg24 said:


> So I had a few minutes to play with the HDfury Integral and I have to say I'm really liking it. For me it's made a big difference.
> 
> *My Setup:*
> 
> *Cables:*
> 25 ft Ultra Clarity Cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016WM5AG8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Monoprice Certified HDMI Cables - https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15427
> 
> Screen - 140' 16x9 DIY spandex screen
> 
> *Components*
> PS4/Roku P+/Gaming PC/Chromecast/Fios Cable > All connected to Onkyo RZ1100 > Integral slot 1
> 
> Philips BRD > Integral slot 2 (Philips HDMI Audio out to RZ1100)
> 
> HDfury Intergral is set to EDID 10 - 4k/60-420 12-bit BT.2020FS
> 
> I will add pictures later although I do not believe that my cell phone will capture the TRUE difference. I have given up on HDR for now and the Integral was definitely the right solution. I had turned off HDR on the Philips but was only receiving rec.709 color space.
> 
> The difference with the HDfury is noticeable to my eyes. The picture pops a little more. It looks slightly sharper. slightly.
> 
> I need to find a way to tame the whites. The picture feels like it's jumping off the screen bright as hell during bright scenes. But (and it's a big but) with the brightness of picture the black levels seem to have gotten better. Again, I'm not looking at it with a meter I'm just stating what my eyes can see, and they tell me that black levels have lowered with the Integral in the chain stripping the HDR from the 4k blurays.
> 
> *Movies Watched during my quick test*
> Lucy and The Shallows
> 
> My EPSON settings
> Color Mode - Natural
> Brightness - 50
> Contrast - 53
> Color sat - 55
> Tint - 52
> Gamma - 0
> 
> everything else unchanged.
> 
> I highly recommend spending the extra cash on an Integral if you are on the fence with HDR. Shipping was amazingly fast as well.


Even though you are stripping hdr you should still be using cinema or digital cinema as that has the dci p3 filter for wide colour gamet which is what you want to be keeping


----------



## rupedogg24

EL Duke said:


> Even though you are stripping hdr you should still be using cinema or digital cinema as that has the dci p3 filter for wide colour gamet which is what you want to be keeping


Interesting. I'll have to try it later tonight. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

i have not played with sdr bt2020 or edit 10 on the hd fury for some time. as i enjoy learning the how to make hdr work in edit 8. my go to mode is cinema as it has the least blue error. the hd fury does add a little pop to everything that why it stays in my system. i will not talk about cables as most tend to think it makes no difference. i will not do the jvc epson debate but wonder why no one talked about ansi values? at the end of the day show me a pj where you can put your hand in front of your screen and get a better black level? i have not seen one pj to date or tv for that matter that does not have any problems showing hdr. with that said very happy with the epson.


----------



## brianlvi3

elmalloc said:


> Are you taking a fiber cable from your receiver to the projector, or PC directly to projector?
> 
> Lastly, does anyone have these issue when using the UBE (wireless) version of transmission?


I have the UBE and I can not get it to work at all. It is horrible. If a dust spec drops in front of the transmitter the picture drops out. I will be contacting Epson again as I have been working with them on trying some different stuff.

I will need an exchange. Hope it is not the part in the unit.

Right now I am using a 30 foot Blue Jeans series 1 cable and all is good (knock on wood).


----------



## elmalloc

brianlvi3 said:


> I have the UBE and I can not get it to work at all. It is horrible. If a dust spec drops in front of the transmitter the picture drops out. I will be contacting Epson again as I have been working with them on trying some different stuff.
> 
> I will need an exchange. Hope it is not the part in the unit.
> 
> Right now I am using a 30 foot Blue Jeans series 1 cable and all is good (knock on wood).


Well, that stinks. I kind of need wireless to work, basement is finished and routing cable is going to be pretty difficult to make it look professional on the 1st floor. Is there anything odd about the angle of where your projector is mounted and where the transmitter is?


----------



## Pakalika

*Is this projector the right one for my given space*

I am designing a media room for my house and really like the features that come with the 5040. However when I enter the information into the projector central calculator I get the feeling that this won't work. I have a 13' throw distance to a 120" acoustic screen. The sizes are fixed. Three walls are windowless and there is no back wall, so a ton of ambient light will exist but there will be some. Should I look at different projectors? Has anyone set this at 13' with awesome results? I am hoping to avoid wasting $3K. Any help is appreciated.


----------



## brianlvi3

elmalloc said:


> Well, that stinks. I kind of need wireless to work, basement is finished and routing cable is going to be pretty difficult to make it look professional on the 1st floor. Is there anything odd about the angle of where your projector is mounted and where the transmitter is?


Not at all. I have it less than 10 feet away about 4 feet or so below the PJ in a straight line.


----------



## TeHaX

It seems Epson released new firmware 1.09. Does anybody knows the changes?


----------



## elmalloc

Pakalika said:


> I am designing a media room for my house and really like the features that come with the 5040. However when I enter the information into the projector central calculator I get the feeling that this won't work. I have a 13' throw distance to a 120" acoustic screen. The sizes are fixed. Three walls are windowless and there is no back wall, so a ton of ambient light will exist but there will be some. Should I look at different projectors? Has anyone set this at 13' with awesome results? I am hoping to avoid wasting $3K. Any help is appreciated.


What from your Projection Calculator says it won't work? It will work just fine. I'm going to be doing 10'9" to a 110" screen. You have 50fL. You will be fine even with some ambient light. I doubt it will be a waste of 3K unless you receive a dud, in which case Epson or whoever would replace it. Note: I don't own the projector yet, but I will soon.

If you're a movie only buff, there are other options around the same price. The Epson will probably do everything well enough, even though there are opinions out there. Especially if you haven't seen a projector before, you won't feel like you wasted money.

I run with only 14-15fL in the basement, I prefer a brighter image (depending on PJ technology though, that sometimes means a higher black level). When people see a very bright image vs. a duller one, I think more often than not the average person is going to choose the brighter image. Your acoustic screen will bring the gain down a little bit, depending what manufacture you have, they are typically not 1.0+ gain. Your eyes adjust though, so even the "dimmer" images look just fine in the dark.

My prior Epson was in a "similar" room to yours, windows were blocked out, but it was on the first floor so some ambient light came in (like during the morning). Not a bat cave, but it still performed admirably. Now if I'm doing critical movie watching, I don't do it in a room like that (if I can control it) - I prefer a bat cave.


----------



## whmacs

brianlvi3 said:


> I have the UBE and I can not get it to work at all. It is horrible. If a dust spec drops in front of the transmitter the picture drops out. I will be contacting Epson again as I have been working with them on trying some different stuff.
> 
> I will need an exchange. Hope it is not the part in the unit.
> 
> Right now I am using a 30 foot Blue Jeans series 1 cable and all is good (knock on wood).


Hi Brian,
Sorry to hear you are having issues with the wireless. What is the signal strength? 

I have my transmitter at the front of the room with my projector mounted on the ceiling. Transmitter to projector is approx 6metres. My signal strength shows 100%. We actually had a hard time blocking the signal! In the end I had to cover the transmitter with my hand to get the signal to drop.

I'm wondering if you have a faulty transmitter, or you are getting interface from something else in your house eg microwave, wifi etc.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## elmalloc

whmacs said:


> Hi Brian,
> Sorry to hear you are having issues with the wireless. What is the signal strength?
> 
> I have my transmitter at the front of the room with my projector mounted on the ceiling. Transmitter to projector is approx 6metres. My signal strength shows 100%. We actually had a hard time blocking the signal! In the end I had to cover the transmitter with my hand to get the signal to drop.
> 
> I'm wondering if you have a faulty transmitter, or you are getting interface from something else in your house eg microwave, wifi etc.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


I also wonder if the downward angle is not great enough - the instruction manual seems to indicate a fairly specific location to how the receiver can see the transmitter. They're probably using WiGig (or something similar). WiGig is very strong at close range, but provides very little coverage (local area); it provides more bandwidth than most HDMI cables fro what I read! I think it actually provides more bandwidth than the Epson can handle. It's mean to combat all the noisy wifi signals people have from neighbors/etc. at the same time giving huge bandwidth.

I'm sure Brian has tried this but my first thing to do would be to move the transmitter to a different angle of attack (upward/downward) and centered with the projector if possible.


----------



## john barlow

We should change the name of this thread to, Don't buy the 5040, get a JVC instead. It gets a little frustrating trying to sift through posts from folks that don't have any interest in owning this PJ, or folks that own the JVC and have come here to gloat. Maybe it's time to find an owners thread so we can exchange useful information. I'm a person who intends to hang on to this pj for at least two years.


----------



## rjguk

TeHaX said:


> It seems Epson released new firmware 1.09. Does anybody knows the changes?


The firmware shown as 1.09/1.04 is actually a file called EPSONPJ_t5108_104.bin

That's puzzling, because normally the file is named after the release, and in this case it appears to be named after the previous release of 1.08/1.04. Or perhaps I'm reading it wrong.


----------



## brianlvi3

whmacs said:


> Hi Brian,
> Sorry to hear you are having issues with the wireless. What is the signal strength?
> 
> I have my transmitter at the front of the room with my projector mounted on the ceiling. Transmitter to projector is approx 6metres. My signal strength shows 100%. We actually had a hard time blocking the signal! In the end I had to cover the transmitter with my hand to get the signal to drop.
> 
> I'm wondering if you have a faulty transmitter, or you are getting interface from something else in your house eg microwave, wifi etc.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


Signal strength is horrible, keeps completely dropping out and then spending minutes trying to connect back. I even ran a long HDMI cable and put the transmitter right in front of the PJ. It would work for a few minutes, then drop the signal again. I was having a tough time finding a cable to work due to the 30 foot run I have which is why i purchased the wireless as a just in case.

Finally this Blue Jeans cable seems to be doing the trick. I even had problems with the Celerity Fiber Optic cable which cost me $300.00. Thank God for a good return policy hah.

As far as interference, nothing on or running at the time.


----------



## brianlvi3

rjguk said:


> The firmware shown as 1.09/1.04 is actually a file called EPSONPJ_t5108_104.bin
> 
> That's puzzling, because normally the file is named after the release, and in this case it appears to be named after the previous release of 1.08/1.04. Or perhaps I'm reading it wrong.


What does the firmware fix?


----------



## rjguk

brianlvi3 said:


> What does the firmware fix?


They never say. Generally I'd be inclined to stay up-to-date, but in this case the filename looks too much like the previous one to fill me with confidence. Has anyone got a memory stick with the previous one still on it so we can confirm the 1.08 filename? (I erased mine just before pulling the new one down).


----------



## brianlvi3

elmalloc said:


> I also wonder if the downward angle is not great enough - the instruction manual seems to indicate a fairly specific location to how the receiver can see the transmitter. They're probably using WiGig (or something similar). WiGig is very strong at close range, but provides very little coverage (local area); it provides more bandwidth than most HDMI cables fro what I read! I think it actually provides more bandwidth than the Epson can handle. It's mean to combat all the noisy wifi signals people have from neighbors/etc. at the same time giving huge bandwidth.
> 
> I'm sure Brian has tried this but my first thing to do would be to move the transmitter to a different angle of attack (upward/downward) and centered with the projector if possible.


At one point I held the transmitter about 2 feet in front of the PJ and still had problems. It has to be defective. Looking forward to getting a replacement. Just have not had time to call Epson back after they asked me to try a few different things.


----------



## bluer101

This is the file name on my flash drive from before. 


EPSONPJ_t5108_104.bin


----------



## mycview2

elmalloc said:


> I like to use ProjectionCentral's calculator for a projector to see throw distances/etc:
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> For 20ft away (front of lens to screen), the Epson 5040UB can project a 97"-204" 16x9 image. You're at 31fL at that distance in a dark room for 120".
> 
> The Epson has a +/- 47% horizontal shift, so you should be able to place it 2ft off center with a 120" image.
> 
> The screen size is really more dependent on where your seating distance is.


Thank you very much for answering in detail!


----------



## john fusco

TeHaX said:


> It seems Epson released new firmware 1.09. Does anybody knows the changes?




Can someone please post a link to where I can find this new firmware. I'm having trouble locating it. Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## crumby2

john fusco said:


> Can someone please post a link to where I can find this new firmware. I'm having trouble locating it. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


http://download2.ebz.epson.net/dsc/vi/fw/EPSONPJ_t5109_104.bin


----------



## whmacs

brianlvi3 said:


> At one point I held the transmitter about 2 feet in front of the PJ and still had problems. It has to be defective. Looking forward to getting a replacement. Just have not had time to call Epson back after they asked me to try a few different things.


Hi Brian,
Yes, definitely sounds defective. Hopefully Epson will sort you out quickly.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## flint350

john fusco said:


> Can someone please post a link to where I can find this new firmware. I'm having trouble locating it. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/...=highlights&noteoid=289381&ref=aff_cj_3640326


----------



## Eric_Connelly

Just an FYI my wireless receiver is 18' horizontal and 6' vertical to the PJ, no problems. 

Does anyone know the spec's as far as frequency?


----------



## elmalloc

Eric_Connelly said:


> Just an FYI my wireless receiver is 18' horizontal and 6' vertical to the PJ, no problems.
> 
> Does anyone know the spec's as far as frequency?


It's 60GHZ. It sounds like WiGig. Super high bandwidth, very short distance.

http://www.sibeam.com/en/News/2016/20160921SiBEAMTechnologyEnables4KWirelessVideoTx.aspx

3D Glasses still work over 2.4 Ghz.


----------



## Paul Cordingley

I just installed the 1.09 firmware (the link was wrong, I had to modify the URL as it was 108_104) and can now see new options in the AUTO setting - sweet!

HDR (Bright)
HDR
HDR Mode 1
HDR Mode 2
HDR Mode 3
HDR Mode 4


----------



## Paul Cordingley

I should add that I run the Aussie TW9300 and have had no problems with either our own firmware or this US version. I've had no time to experiment and won't have for another few days, so keen to see what others make of this and their findings! I do love HDR on the projector and never had an issue or thought it was too dark but hated always having to switch to Mode 1 as it defaulted to Mode 2 (which IS too dark). Hopefully won't need to do that from now on. The only thing I think we may still have to do manually is load our different calibration memory settings for SDR or HDR.


----------



## schmidtwi

LumensLover said:


> Sorry about the tone of my post.


Actually, all three of your posts displayed an arrogant, negative tone. No need to berate anyone for their opinions. And no need to denigrate our choice of projector, based on your opinion. I doubt anyone found your posts useful.


This thread is great for all 5040ub/6040ub owners, or anyone interested in buying one of these units. We are open about our challenges, experiences, settings, etc., related to these units. Most of us on this thread happen to think the Epson's are a fantastic value with an exceptional picture.


----------



## seplant

Paul Cordingley said:


> I just installed the 1.09 firmware (the link was wrong, I had to modify the URL as it was 108_104) and can now see new options in the AUTO setting - sweet!
> 
> HDR (Bright)
> HDR
> HDR Mode 1
> HDR Mode 2
> HDR Mode 3
> HDR Mode 4


I don't currently have a UHD blu-ray player, but it would be nice to know from someone who does how the new HDR (Bright) setting compares with the custom gamma settings many have been using. Please install the new firmware and report!


----------



## schmidtwi

Paul Cordingley said:


> I just installed the 1.09 firmware (the link was wrong, I had to modify the URL as it was 108_104) and can now see new options in the AUTO setting - sweet!
> 
> HDR (Bright)
> HDR
> HDR Mode 1
> HDR Mode 2
> HDR Mode 3
> HDR Mode 4


 

Thanks for the info! Now I'll finally have to update firmware. I'll be interested to hear your thoughts on the new options.


.


----------



## bluer101

Modified URL

http://download2.ebz.epson.net/dsc/vi/fw/EPSONPJ_t5109_104.bin


----------



## covsound1

the settings we have now 100nits 1000nits 2000nits and 4000nits. hdr1 is blown out hdr2 can be dark some times. may be 500nits would be perfect. was also looking for a slider as well cant have it all lol. maybe this is why other brands lowered prices? did they know this was coming. i will be up late tonight!


----------



## sddp

flint350 said:


> http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/...=highlights&noteoid=289381&ref=aff_cj_3640326




When did this firmware update come out?


ANd is it better to use usb 3.0? or stick with 2.0
and what size did you guys use?


About to buy a usb just for this Epson for all firmware updates.


Thanks


----------



## WynsWrld98

Paul Cordingley said:


> I just installed the 1.09 firmware (the link was wrong, I had to modify the URL as it was 108_104) and can now see new options in the AUTO setting - sweet!
> 
> HDR (Bright)
> HDR
> HDR Mode 1
> HDR Mode 2
> HDR Mode 3
> HDR Mode 4


Which one is the default?


----------



## ac388

Thanks. I am in Hong Kong n wish I can use this new Firmware here. Since in HK, we cannot do the update ourselves thru the USB thumbdrive, n have to be sent back to the factory for the technicans to do it, which I think is stupid n cost us money for transport too !!!



Paul Cordingley said:


> I just installed the 1.09 firmware (the link was wrong, I had to modify the URL as it was 108_104) and can now see new options in the AUTO setting - sweet!
> 
> HDR (Bright)
> HDR
> HDR Mode 1
> HDR Mode 2
> HDR Mode 3
> HDR Mode 4


----------



## covsound1

well we now have a brighter hdr1 that does not clip as hard as before and you dont have to turn up color as it flows a lot better. also the manual iris works with hdr now you will need it as its a lot brighter. also had to normal settings. i can even use gamma -1 and get good output.guys with dark or low gain screens will love it. natural looks better balanced with hdr now.


----------



## covsound1

sddp said:


> When did this firmware update come out?
> 
> 
> ANd is it better to use usb 3.0? or stick with 2.0
> and what size did you guys use?
> 
> 
> About to buy a usb just for this Epson for all firmware updates.
> 
> 
> Thanks


had to use two different sticks one of them did not work.if it does not it will not brick your machine try another one. enjoy


----------



## bigabit

Curious to hear everybody's results but in my setup so far this is a big improvement for HDR. This has not changed the capabilities of the projector, but it has greatly simplified getting good results.

Auto Bright setting is nice to have, but so far HDR Mode 2 looks great on the discs I've tried. No more need for the gamma boost. Just using the same preset / mode I use for SDR.


----------



## ac388

Did u use the the Auto Bright setting in Natural mode for UHD Bluray playback ??? If yes, do you mind to share your setting . Thanks in advance.


----------



## covsound1

last update we now have bi2020 hdr or sdr with bt2020.


----------



## hatlesschimp

LumensLover said:


> I owned the Epson 6040UB. The blacks were ok but paled in comparison to the JVC RS400 I later purchased within the same price range. The 6040 looked really good with 4k content however it looked equally as bad with non 4k content.
> 
> The motorized zoom feature is not trustworthy to me and numerous 6040/5040 owners have reported problems with lens memory on their units. I do not think the 5040 nor the 6040 are worth their current price points.
> 
> The 6040's picture quality is discernably inferior to the entry level JVC RS400/420 at the same price point.


The Base model JVC isnt worth the cash in Australia. The Epson is around 1000 to 1500 cheaper on RRP. I think the mid tier x7000/x7500 and x9000/x9500 are great but not very good on the wallet. People like bang for buck and thats why the Epson is a winner hands down. Its "The People's Projector!"
I cant wait to see how JVC, Sony & Benq will react with their next projector releases. I think JVC might actually improve the base model x5000 to where it should be and not give a gimped offering trying to push people to the more expensive products. Anyway Epson have done PJ enhusiasts a solid!

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## bigabit

With new firmware and after basic brightness and contrast adjustments to prevent clipping on each mode, there is little difference to me between HDR1 and HDR2. It may be best to calibrate to regular auto (HDR2), so that you have the option to bump up to HDR1 on an overly dark disc (Arrival). So not sure I will use Auto Bright, after all the waiting for that feature.

There has definitely been an improvement in the gamma and color rendering of HDR content overall. HDR1 is bright but will still usually clip skies, etc. unless you enable Super White or adjust contrast accordingly.

Just resetting the gamma to 0 or even -1 on my previous HDR presets looks pretty great. No magic in the settings.


----------



## MaximTre

Just upgraded to new firmware.
The only different features I found were:
- information page shows HDR instead of HDR2 as before
- there'se a new "bright" HDR auto preset. It's just the auto setting with hdr1 instead of hdr2 (for hdr sources). So normal auto setting = hdr2 (as before), "bright" auto = hdr1. 

I guess that's all.


----------



## bigabit

seplant said:


> I don't currently have a UHD blu-ray player, but it would be nice to know from someone who does how the new HDR (Bright) setting compares with the custom gamma settings many have been using. Please install the new firmware and report!


The new Auto Bright setting simply changes the default from HDR 2 to HDR 1. So you don't have to access the menu if that is your preferred mode.

To me all of the HDR settings look closer to the custom gamma settings now. Possibly better. HDR 1 with Super White on is really close to HDR 2 with Super White off.

It also seems you could create a preset that works for HDR and SDR, so you don't ever have to change a thing. Curious to see what others conclude.


----------



## covsound1

recap 1 bright hd1 has new gamma curves you no longer have to use it with gamma1 that clipped whites. auto lets the projector select sdr hd1 hd2 hd3 and hd4. sdr know gives you bt 2020 hdr same as hd fury and panny edit 10. only now it is done at the projector end not the player end nice, have to test more as i thought i saw some chroma problems.hdfury may still be the best option have to test.but to members that dont have the fury or like hdr epson gave you a gift. settings can be normalized now with richer tone less wash out and deeper blacks. hd1 same as bright hd1. hdr2 did not test may be the same as before but something changed as it now works with normal settings and gamma. last full control of manual iris in hdr. watched fith element 4k on the panny amazon in the sdr setting it popped and had better clarity than before but gostbuster is where i saw chroma problems with red.


----------



## rupedogg24

covsound1 said:


> recap 1 bright hd1 has new gamma curves you no longer have to use it with gamma1 that clipped whites. auto lets the projector select sdr hd1 hd2 hd3 and hd4. sdr know gives you bt 2020 hdr same as hd fury and panny edit 10. only now it is done at the projector end not the player end nice, have to test more as i thought i saw some chroma problems.hdfury may still be the best option have to test.but to members that dont have the fury or like hdr epson gave you a gift. settings can be normalized now with richer tone less wash out and deeper blacks. hd1 same as bright hd1. hdr2 did not test may be the same as before but something changed as it now works with normal settings and gamma. last full control of manual iris in hdr. watched fith element 4k on the panny amazon in the sdr setting it popped and had better clarity than before but gostbuster is where i saw chroma problems with red.


Literally just got my HDfury but will probably end up keeping it. Haven't tested the new firmware yet. Will have to try it later. Loving what the HDfury has brought out in the picture. Similar pop I didn't have before on films like Lucy and The Shallows.


----------



## seplant

covsound1 said:


> recap 1 bright hd1 has new gamma curves you no longer have to use it with gamma1 that clipped whites. auto lets the projector select sdr hd1 hd2 hd3 and hd4. sdr know gives you bt 2020 hdr same as hd fury and panny edit 10. only now it is done at the projector end not the player end nice, have to test more as i thought i saw some chroma problems.hdfury may still be the best option have to test.but to members that dont have the fury or like hdr epson gave you a gift. settings can be normalized now with richer tone less wash out and deeper blacks. hd1 same as bright hd1. hdr2 did not test may be the same as before but something changed as it now works with normal settings and gamma. last full control of manual iris in hdr. watched fith element 4k on the panny amazon in the sdr setting it popped and had better clarity than before but gostbuster is where i saw chroma problems with red.


Thanks, covsound1. I'll look forward to your feedback after more testing. What I'm really curious to know is the consensus on whether 4K HDR BT2020 with the newly available settings now looks SIGNIFICANTLY better than standard blu-ray. Not having invested in a UHD player or any UHD discs yet and knowing how incredible standard blu-rays look on this projector, I'm still hesitant to jump into the UHD pool at this point for fear of only a marginal improvement in picture quality.


----------



## NoTechi

*Europe Epson Firmware Updates*

I can' believe that the European (German, British,..) Epson support websites still have Firmware 1.05 as latest Firmware while US is at 1.09 already. Australia is at 1.08. Doesn't sound like they are well organized.

I tried to update with the US and Australien one (9300w) but without success. After pluging power in while keep the power on key pressed just leads to having the projector turn off after a few seconds and on again and off again and so on. Tried multiple USB sticks and used FAT and FAT32 without luck and gave up. Could someone post which USB stick they used and which format FAT or FAT32 they used please.

NoTechi


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Got my Celerity fiber optic HDMI cable yesterday to replace the 2 35' active cables I've tried that can't keep 4k60hz without occasional drops. Haven't had long enough to test it out, but so far so good. Need to try to play a game in 4k for a while to make sure it's resolved the drop outs. My ube signal is always at 100%, and I'm pretty confident it's not that. If this cable doesn't work, then I don't know. Perhaps my pj is fooked.


----------



## bigboar

rupedogg24 said:


> Literally just got my HDfury but will probably end up keeping it. Haven't tested the new firmware yet. Will have to try it later. Loving what the HDfury has brought out in the picture. Similar pop I didn't have before on films like Lucy and The Shallows.


me too! just received my linker yesterday and havent even hooked it up yet. by the way, would you pm me your settings? all i am wanting to do is strip hdr. I use a philip uhd, xbox one s, going to a marantz sr7010 then the projector.


----------



## elmalloc

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Got my Celerity fiber optic HDMI cable yesterday to replace the 2 35' active cables I've tried that can't keep 4k60hz without occasional drops. Haven't had long enough to test it out, but so far so good. Need to try to play a game in 4k for a while to make sure it's resolved the drop outs. My ube signal is always at 100%, and I'm pretty confident it's not that. If this cable doesn't work, then I don't know. Perhaps my pj is fooked.


Sorry if I asked you personally before, so you're saying your wireless via UBE doesn't pass 4k60 without drops, hence you're going to celerity fiber optic HDMI?

Thanks!


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

elmalloc said:


> Sorry if I asked you personally before, so you're saying your wireless via UBE doesn't pass 4k60 without drops, hence you're going to celerity fiber optic HDMI?
> 
> Thanks!


I'm still unsure where the problem is exactly. I suspect the problem lies with the cable from my gaming PC to the receiver (30' or so). If that's where the problem is, then this fiber optic HDMI should solve it. If I still get drops with fiber in place, then the problem is somewhere else. UBE signal strength is always 100%, and it actually takes quite a bit of effort to disrupt the wireless signal.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

I only had a few minutes to play with it but now off the Shield TV watching Netflix I get SDR, 12 bit, 2020.

Thought it used to be 8 bit? I have it set at 24hz 4K.

Tonight I'll try a UHD BD and see what the difference is.


----------



## rupedogg24

bigboar said:


> me too! just received my linker yesterday and havent even hooked it up yet. by the way, would you pm me your settings? all i am wanting to do is strip hdr. I use a philip uhd, xbox one s, going to a marantz sr7010 then the projector.


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=50793657

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## rjguk

NoTechi said:


> I can' believe that the European (German, British,..) Epson support websites still have Firmware 1.05 as latest Firmware while US is at 1.09 already. Australia is at 1.08. Doesn't sound like they are well organized.
> 
> I tried to update with the US and Australien one (9300w) but without success. After pluging power in while keep the power on key pressed just leads to having the projector turn off after a few seconds and on again and off again and so on. Tried multiple USB sticks and used FAT and FAT32 without luck and gave up. Could someone post which USB stick they used and which format FAT or FAT32 they used please.
> 
> NoTechi


I'd previously been using a no-name USB stick, FAT32 format, 8GB. However, yesterday I deleted the old firmware file and put the new one on, then did the connect power with the on button depressed, and it just went to solid lights for a few seconds and switched off. 
I tried reformatting, still no joy. This was a stick that had worked fine on previous occasions. 

Then I got a USB3 card reader, put a 16GB Integral Ultimate Pro SDHC card from my camera in it and copied over the .bin file. It installed fine from that. That card is FAT32, formatted by the camera, allocation unit size 32K. The failing one that previously worked is FAT32 with an allocation unit size of 4096 bytes.


----------



## bigboar

rupedogg24 said:


> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=50793657
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


thanks!


----------



## knucklehd

PSA, make sure you are putting the usb in the correct slot, I didn't realize that the usb will actually fit in the slot to the right of the hdmi. The 300ma opthdmi. Working in the dark theater i just did this incorrectly, like a dumb ass.  
At least it didn't fry anything. 

I was hesitant to upgrade to this new 1.09 Firmware because I am currently happy with my HDR2 default because that's where all my custom settings and time have went. Thankfully they didn't break that. It defaults to saying HDR in the info screen, but it is actually still HDR2.
Now you have a choice within the menu to set your default to "AUTO (Bright)" which is really the old HDR1 (with maybe some tweaks that I didn't verify because I use HDR2 anyway) Or you can choose or leave it where it defaults to the original AUTO (HDR2). I was hoping they would make it a choice and not default it to HDR1, and they did just that!

If you are happy with your current auto settings, there is no need to feel like you have to update the firmware immediately, if you want to tweak on the HDR1 level and/or want that to be your default then this is a must firmware update.
I was hoping to see the PS4Pro get recognized beyond the 2k, but it still thinks RGBCYM is unsupported. Maybe someday.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Well, eff. Just played Witcher 3, 4k60hz, after having put the fiber optic HDMI line in place. Getting the same drop outs as before with the 35' active HDMI cables. I've tried 2 different receivers. The Epson wireless transmitter always shows 100%. I'm left with the depressing conclusion that the projector is simply ****ed up.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Okay...so, this isn't very comforting. Just got off the phone with Epson technical support. Explained my issue, the ways I've tried to isolate and rule out the source of the problem. The response:

Tech support: "So, you need to drop the 4k source signal from 60hz to 25hz"

Me: "Well, yeah, if I reduce the signal from 60hz to 30hz or 24hz, then I don't get signal drops. But I want a 60hz signal. I thought the projector accepted 4k60hz signals. The signal I'm sending is 4k60hz chroma 4:2:0, so it should meet the bandwidth limitations of the system"

Tech support: "No, sir, it doesn't support that. We recommend 4k at 25hz."


----------



## JackOften

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Okay...so, this isn't very comforting. Just got off the phone with Epson technical support. Explained my issue, the ways I've tried to isolate and rule out the source of the problem. The response:
> 
> Tech support: "So, you need to drop the 4k source signal from 60hz to 25hz"
> 
> Me: "Well, yeah, if I reduce the signal from 60hz to 30hz or 24hz, then I don't get signal drops. But I want a 60hz signal. I thought the projector accepted 4k60hz signals. The signal I'm sending is 4k60hz chroma 4:2:0, so it should meet the bandwidth limitations of the system"
> 
> Tech support: "No, sir, it doesn't support that. We recommend 4k at 25hz."


I run my shield with 4k/60 with no issues (was playing Witcher 3 gamestream a few days ago). I use a HDBaseT solution to transmit the signal. Something stinks with that response.

Edit: are you using the beta shield games client? I thought that was the only way to get 60hz.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

JackOften said:


> I run my shield with 4k/60 with no issues (was playing Witcher 3 gamestream a few days ago). I use a HDBaseT solution to transmit the signal. Something stinks with that response.
> 
> Edit: are you using the beta shield games client? I thought that was the only way to get 60hz.


No shield in my system. Gaming PC is connected receiver via fiber optic HDMI. Then from receiver to UBe wireless transmitter via 6' HDMI cable. Then, of course, transmitter to PJ. The only thing I haven't tried is going HDMI cable directly into the PJ. Of course, the reason I went with the UBe was to circumvent having to run a line to the projector.


----------



## sddp

seplant said:


> Thanks, covsound1. I'll look forward to your feedback after more testing. What I'm really curious to know is the consensus on whether 4K HDR BT2020 with the newly available settings now looks SIGNIFICANTLY better than standard blu-ray. Not having invested in a UHD player or any UHD discs yet and knowing how incredible standard blu-rays look on this projector, I'm still hesitant to jump into the UHD pool at this point for fear of only a marginal improvement in picture quality.




My take on only getting 4K disc from now on.
For starters, all 4K disc come with a blu ray anyways. But eventually this 4K fuax/eshift will become a thing of the past. Just like HD up scaling was the latest craze a decade ago and now you can't even find a non HD tv, not even sitting by the curb to be picked up for free/trash.


The price difference (this mainly applies to when it comes out on disc for the first week, i.e. best buy, Walmart, target, etc) the blu ray is on sale for around $17.99'ish where as the 4K is about $5-7 more. You mine as well get the 4K. So when 4K tvs and 4K projectors become the norm, you'll already amassed a 4K library instead of having to buy your favorite movies ALL OVER AGAIN on a 4K disc


The only exception is if you are a die hard 3D fan. I find it an EPIC FAIL on the studios not having a full package of 4K/3D/Blu ray set. Willing to pay the extra $. 
Since as of now if you want a 4K copy and a 3D, you have to but each individually and that takes up twice the space and twice the $$.
3D already comes with dozens of disc, you get the 3D, you get the 2D Blue ray, you get the extras, you get the ultraviolet something or other.




Every time a movie comes out, I am always on the fence, should I get the 3D or the 4K since both would cost around $50 ( being that I am big on 3D). What a conundrum .


----------



## HarleyRider

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Gaming PC is connected receiver via fiber optic HDMI. Then from receiver to UBe wireless transmitter via 6' HDMI cable.


Have you tried taking the receiver out of the mix and running your gaming PC direct to the UBe transmitter and see if it still drops out? Maybe it's that extra hop from PC to receiver to UBe transmitter.


----------



## thecloneranger

i went ahead and bit the bullet bought a 5040ub. upgrading from a 5030 do i need to replace the hdmi cable to get 4k i wanna say i ran the latest hdmi spec when i in stalled it 2 years ago? im running it through the ceiling. the only 4k source i have now is xbox one s


----------



## Eric_Connelly

Well found out something good and something a bit annoying.

I hear people on here talk about Lucy all the time so we bought it a few weeks ago. I honestly did not get all the hype over it and thought when I had it in HDR it looked terrible.

So after updating the firmware I popped that back in...and noticed something. 

It seems that the people who package the 4K Ultra HD disk cases do not always put the Ultra HD Disc in the facing spot when you open it. We've bought maybe 10 4K movies and looks like 4 out of the 10 the BD was in the facing slot. Because of the paper insert for the digital version never noticed there was another disk behind it.

So Lucy, Independence Day, Star Trek Beyond, and one other I can't remember we watched the BD version not the 4K version. Star Trek was the first one we tried the night we got the projector and I remember being disappointed in it since HDR mode in a non-HDR disc turns it all to crap.

I cannot image I am the only one to do this, so double check your disks especially if your like us. We open it up stairs, go downstairs and pop it in a dimly lit room just assuming its the right disk.

That being said I put Lucy UHD disc in and in Auto Bright with 1.09 it is very watchable compared to before. It's not perfect but it also is all default settings so I have a lot more hope that once I play around with it HDR viewing will be the default.

See more tonight once it gets dark out. Putting up new trim and the window treatments are mostly down so its pretty bright in here but a nice improvement over the previous firmware.

It also looks way better than the BD disc.


----------



## JackOften

flapjackdowntheline said:


> No shield in my system. Gaming PC is connected receiver via fiber optic HDMI. Then from receiver to UBe wireless transmitter via 6' HDMI cable. Then, of course, transmitter to PJ. The only thing I haven't tried is going HDMI cable directly into the PJ. Of course, the reason I went with the UBe was to circumvent having to run a line to the projector.


Yea, a direct line just to test may be worthwhile, would allow you to eliminate anything in between. Last question: Vid card? I'm sure it's modern since you are trying 4k, but some older ones won't output 60hz 4k


----------



## elmalloc

I thought i read some people were having issues with 4k60 in some setups with their Epson. May be wrong.


----------



## rupedogg24

1st time doing a firmware update since I've had the projector. Could someone please point me in the direction of how to update the firmware? Thank you


----------



## BRADH

rupedogg24 said:


> 1st time doing a firmware update since I've had the projector. Could someone please point me in the direction of how to update the firmware? Thank you




Download the firmware and copy it to your thumb drive. Unplug the projector and put the thumb drive in the usb drive on the projector. Hold the power button ( on the projector) while plugging the projector back in until you see the orange lights. Then release the power button and the lights should flash then the update should start it can take a few minutes. If the blue power light comes in stand by then the thumb drive may not be one that the projector likes. I had this problem the first time I tried and had to use a PNY thumb drive to get mine to work.


Good luck.


----------



## webmst

dear all,
i see a lot of repeat questions in this thread - not surprising after over 5700 messages 
so I've attached my notes from this thread in case they can help anybody. Some 203 and other notes are also in there. Many thanks to all those here who've given up their time to share their thoughts and help others . 
The notes are not in any particular order so you'll need to go through it all for yourself. I haven't included the latest 109 user experiences and settings yet.


----------



## knucklehd

rupedogg24 said:


> 1st time doing a firmware update since I've had the projector. Could someone please point me in the direction of how to update the firmware? Thank you


Directions directly from their site if you click on USB
http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530500en.pdf


----------



## rupedogg24

knucklehd said:


> Directions directly from their site if you click on USB
> http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530500en.pdf


Thank you. Couldn't find it myself.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

JackOften said:


> Yea, a direct line just to test may be worthwhile, would allow you to eliminate anything in between. Last question: Vid card? I'm sure it's modern since you are trying 4k, but some older ones won't output 60hz 4k


I've tested with a direct line to the wireless transmitter using the 2 35' active HDMI cables I have. Haven't tested direct line to the transmitter with the new fiber cable. Gonna test direct fiber line from PC to PJ tonight (skipping both the receiver and the transmitter). If it doesn't work under that circumstance. It's not gonna work at all, which is really disappointing.

Video card is a Titan X(M).


----------



## sddp

webmst said:


> dear all,
> i see a lot of repeat questions in this thread - not surprising after over 5700 messages
> so I've attached my notes from this thread in case they can help anybody. Some 203 and other notes are also in there. Many thanks to all those here who've given up their time to share their thoughts and help others .
> The notes are not in any particular order so you'll need to go through it all for yourself. I haven't included the latest 109 user experiences and settings yet.




Seriously? WOW Where do we send our money to? Do you have PayPal?


Thank you for your hard work and input doing this, it does help a lot. And I believe I speak on behalf a handful from here.


----------



## sddp

knucklehd said:


> Directions directly from their site if you click on USB
> http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530500en.pdf




Thanks!
So you have PayPal too? :laugh:


----------



## rupedogg24

webmst said:


> dear all,
> i see a lot of repeat questions in this thread - not surprising after over 5700 messages
> so I've attached my notes from this thread in case they can help anybody. Some 203 and other notes are also in there. Many thanks to all those here who've given up their time to share their thoughts and help others .
> The notes are not in any particular order so you'll need to go through it all for yourself. I haven't included the latest 109 user experiences and settings yet.


Bravo friend. Thank you for your work on this.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Well, this is a bummer. Ran the fiber optic hdmi straight into pj. Tried to play a game 4k60hz. Nope. Didn't make it more than 2 minutes in before signal drop that never recovered. Had to alt-tab back out to desktop, which was set to 1080p, to get image back. Titan X(M), passing 4:2:2, 4k60hz. This projector won't take it. Not over wireless, not hard wired. Pretty bummed.


----------



## whmacs

webmst said:


> dear all,
> i see a lot of repeat questions in this thread - not surprising after over 5700 messages
> so I've attached my notes from this thread in case they can help anybody. Some 203 and other notes are also in there. Many thanks to all those here who've given up their time to share their thoughts and help others .
> The notes are not in any particular order so you'll need to go through it all for yourself. I haven't included the latest 109 user experiences and settings yet.


Thanks Webmst!
BTW have you upgraded to v109 yet? The Australian Epson site still only has v108.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## v8maro

covsound1 said:


> recap 1 bright hd1 has new gamma curves you no longer have to use it with gamma1 that clipped whites. auto lets the projector select sdr hd1 hd2 hd3 and hd4. sdr know gives you bt 2020 hdr same as hd fury and panny edit 10. only now it is done at the projector end not the player end nice, have to test more as i thought i saw some chroma problems.hdfury may still be the best option have to test.but to members that dont have the fury or like hdr epson gave you a gift. settings can be normalized now with richer tone less wash out and deeper blacks. hd1 same as bright hd1. hdr2 did not test may be the same as before but something changed as it now works with normal settings and gamma. last full control of manual iris in hdr. watched fith element 4k on the panny amazon in the sdr setting it popped and had better clarity than before but gostbuster is where i saw chroma problems with red.


So did I waste 200 on my linker?


----------



## covsound1

v8maro said:


> So did I waste 200 on my linker?


no i still have mine in my system as others have noted and myself a little more pop.looks like we where getting the hdr strip before but it defaulted to 709rec now we have bt2020. we need to compare what works best as i noted a little chroma push(red). when using streaming or game consoles we may have also have a new edit that allows more stuff to come down the pipe. hold on to your linker a valuable tool. with the new tweaks we have every setting you worked on go out the window.i think i may reset all start over and begin using my calman and relearn my better balanced pj.oh by the way i feel your same sentiments i just got the panny over the phillips that worked fine


----------



## EL Duke

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Well, this is a bummer. Ran the fiber optic hdmi straight into pj. Tried to play a game 4k60hz. Nope. Didn't make it more than 2 minutes in before signal drop that never recovered. Had to alt-tab back out to desktop, which was set to 1080p, to get image back. Titan X(M), passing 4:2:2, 4k60hz. This projector won't take it. Not over wireless, not hard wired. Pretty bummed.


If wanting 4k at 60hz the maxing you can have your settings at is 4.2.0 8bit give this a try. Its what my ps4 pro and xbox one s run at


----------



## webmst

er .well......actually nope...........(see my previous posts) my 8300 is back with Epson due to sound issues (49-51Db instead of 20-31 as spec'd). We'll see where that gets to. If they can't fix and offer a reconditioned replacement I've already organised an upgrade instead through my retailer to a 9300 (6040).
If any wishes to seriously contribute to my dog bone fund - they can PM me  hahahahahaaaaaa.......

So the answer is "no" to the 109 upgrade  at the mo.................


----------



## whmacs

webmst said:


> er .well......actually nope...........(see my previous posts) my 8300 is back with Epson due to sound issues (49-51Db instead of 20-31 as spec'd). We'll see where that gets to. If they can't fix and offer a reconditioned replacement I've already organised an upgrade instead through my retailer to a 9300 (6040).
> If any wishes to seriously contribute to my dog bone fund - they can PM me  hahahahahaaaaaa.......
> 
> So the answer is "no" to the 109 upgrade  at the mo.................


Bummer... I hope that Epson get you sorted out quickly.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## migsta

*First Glitch*

First glitch since owning this projector for a week now - was watching TV and switched over to my UHD Panny player. Stuck in the UHD disc and noticed it was registering at 1080p but playing. Ejected the disc and stuck another UHD disc in and it said this display does not support 4K. Had to power off/on the projector and then it worked as normal. Is this just an HDMI handshake issue or is my cable suspect? Cable has been passing the full signal with no issues until this occurred. To run HDMI over Ethernet with a balun, do you need CAT6 or will CAT5 work and how many cables are required? Is this the way to ultimately futureproof the HDMI connection as I have around a 40ft plus cable which appears to be working but not sure if I should run Ethernet with a balun.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

EL Duke said:


> If wanting 4k at 60hz the maxing you can have your settings at is 4.2.0 8bit give this a try. Its what my ps4 pro and xbox one s run at


So, this is interesting. In the past I've run my 35' active hdmi cables directly to the wireless transmitter. Still got drops at 4k60. Got the fiber optic hdmi cable on Thursday. Ran fiber from gaming PC to receiver, then receiver to transmitter using standard hdmi cable. Still got drops. I then ran fiber directly to the projector. Still got drops. In fact, that configuration was the worst. The only thing I hadn't tried at this point was fiber to the transmitter, bypassing the receiver. Just set that up this morning, and 4k60 4:2:0 8bit appears to be stable so far. 15 minutes of Witcher 3 4k60 and no drops so far. Fingers crossed. Seems wireless transmitter is the most stable way to deliver 4k to this projector.


----------



## EL Duke

When you say 35' active hdmi cable are you meaning the cable is 35 feet long? Cause thats a helluva length for 4k and will def be a cause in dropouts. Glad you have it sorted though, 8 bit 4.2.0 should be stable. Unfortunately because of the chipset in the projector you can not go any higher. 4k 10bit at 60hz 4.4.4 would need an 18gb chipset and the epson only has a 10.


----------



## migsta

*Firmware Download Where?*

Where are you folks seeing the 6040UB firmware. I look on Epson's sites and don't see anything for firmware. Just documentation & utilities basically.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

EL Duke said:


> When you say 35' active hdmi cable are you meaning the cable is 35 feet long? Cause thats a helluva length for 4k and will def be a cause in dropouts. Glad you have it sorted though, 8 bit 4.2.0 should be stable. Unfortunately because of the chipset in the projector you can not go any higher. 4k 10bit at 60hz 4.4.4 would need an 18gb chipset and the epson only has a 10.


Yep. 35 foot long active hdmi cables. You're right. It's the length that's the problem. It's strange though that I get stable 4k60 going from source to wireless transmitter with fiber, but I don't if I go fiber to projector. I thought I read somewhere that the wireless transmitter and receiver can handle more bandwidth than the wired components, so maybe that's it. In any event, seems to be working ok now.


----------



## seplant

migsta said:


> Where are you folks seeing the 6040UB firmware. I look on Epson's sites and don't see anything for firmware. Just documentation & utilities basically.


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## v8maro

I downloaded the latest firmware here: 1.09/1.04 http://download2.ebz.epson.net/dsc/vi/fw/EPSONPJ_t5109_104.bin

Why is it listed as 1.09/1.04 but the download is 108/104?

When I updated, the PJ info screen says: Main:6Y0076648UWWV*108* Video2: 68L28RMV*104*

Seems like this is the 108 firmware, where do I get the 1.09??


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Yep. 35 foot long active hdmi cables. You're right. It's the length that's the problem. It's strange though that I get stable 4k60 going from source to wireless transmitter with fiber, but I don't if I go fiber to projector. I thought I read somewhere that the wireless transmitter and receiver can handle more bandwidth than the wired components, so maybe that's it. In any event, seems to be working ok now.


Aaaaaaaand I spoke to soon. Played Witcher 3, 4k60, 4:2:0, for about 30 minutes, and the drops started. This projector simply cannot accept 60hz 4k signals. Period.


----------



## Whopper80

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Aaaaaaaand I spoke to soon. Played Witcher 3, 4k60, 4:2:0, for about 30 minutes, and the drops started. This projector simply cannot accept 60hz 4k signals. Period.


Mh, I have played Witcher 3 on [email protected] via Nvidia Shield Streaming (from my PC) for hours and i have not had any signal drops.
I used the UBE though via wireless.


----------



## RyanChristopher

v8maro said:


> I downloaded the latest firmware here: 1.09/1.04 http://download2.ebz.epson.net/dsc/vi/fw/EPSONPJ_t5109_104.bin
> 
> 
> 
> Why is it listed as 1.09/1.04 but the download is 108/104?
> 
> 
> 
> When I updated, the PJ info screen says: Main:6Y0076648UWWV*108* Video2: 68L28RMV*104*
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like this is the 108 firmware, where do I get the 1.09??




This is happening to me as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RyanChristopher

v8maro said:


> I downloaded the latest firmware here: 1.09/1.04 http://download2.ebz.epson.net/dsc/vi/fw/EPSONPJ_t5109_104.bin
> 
> Why is it listed as 1.09/1.04 but the download is 108/104?
> 
> When I updated, the PJ info screen says: Main:6Y0076648UWWV*108* Video2: 68L28RMV*104*
> 
> Seems like this is the 108 firmware, where do I get the 1.09??


Found this link posted on page 191. This is the file you are looking for.

http://download2.ebz.epson.net/dsc/v..._t5109_104.bin


----------



## rjguk

RyanChristopher said:


> Found this link posted on page 191. This is the file you are looking for.
> 
> http://download2.ebz.epson.net/dsc/v..._t5109_104.bin


Correct. Epson need to sort that out, their page clearly shows 1.09 but somebody forgot to change the actual link to point it to the 1.09 file.


----------



## mase1981

upgraded to 109. i wish they would post a change log


----------



## elmalloc

Whopper80 said:


> Mh, I have played Witcher 3 on [email protected] via Nvidia Shield Streaming (from my PC) for hours and i have not had any signal drops.
> I used the UBE though via wireless.


Do you notice any lag when playing Witcher 3 via nvidia shield? I was thinking of connecting my PC to the transmitter, but if Nvidia shield is doing a decent enough job? I'd probably end up playing *Mass Effect 4 *(TM) like that (coming soon, to a store near you).


----------



## Battleship-7

*5040ub Won't Recognize 3d Content*

Hello, I am trying to view 3D content for the first time. I am streaming a side by side 3D movie using an Nvidia Shield. The side by side shows up but I cant access any 3D settings to have the movie go to 3D mode (they are all greyed out). Is there a way to force 3D viewing?


----------



## spirithockey79

rjguk said:


> Correct. Epson need to sort that out, their page clearly shows 1.09 but somebody forgot to change the actual link to point it to the 1.09 file.


That link doesn't work, but for everyone having issues just copy/paste the link from the Epson page to your browser and replace the "108" in the link with "109". It will download the correct 109 version.

Also, don't use the port (vertical) on the pj closest to the HDMI connections. Use the horizontal USB port closest to the ethernet port.


----------



## migsta

*Lnks Don't Work*



spirithockey79 said:


> That link doesn't work, but for everyone having issues just copy/paste the link from the Epson page to your browser and replace the "108" in the link with "109". It will download the correct 109 version.
> 
> Also, don't use the port (vertical) on the pj closest to the HDMI connections. Use the horizontal USB port closest to the ethernet port.


None of the links posted in the recent thread work for me. There is one that works but it takes me to a 1.08/1.04 bin file. I'm not sure what you mean by the above as I don't see the link where I can change 108 to 109. 

Can someone please help, thanks.


----------



## rjguk

migsta said:


> None of the links posted in the recent thread work for me. There is one that works but it takes me to a 1.08/1.04 bin file. I'm not sure what you mean by the above as I don't see the link where I can change 108 to 109.
> 
> Can someone please help, thanks.


The Epson firmware page is at https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

The 6040ub firmware is near the bottom. However, their link is broken. When you click on the download button for the firmware labelled 1.09 you get the 1.08 file. To fix this do the following:

Use a right click on the download button and choose 'copy link location'. Then paste that URL into the address bar of your browser, it will be a link to http://download2.ebz.epson.net/dsc/vi/fw/EPSONPJ_t5108_104.bin (the wrong file).
Then, instead of hitting enter, fix the name by manually changing the 108 to 109. Then you'll have a link to the correct file, http://download2.ebz.epson.net/dsc/vi/fw/EPSONPJ_t5109_104.bin

Hit enter and that's the new link it uses. Or just use that last link to get to the 109 file directly


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Whopper80 said:


> Mh, I have played Witcher 3 on [email protected] via Nvidia Shield Streaming (from my PC) for hours and i have not had any signal drops.
> I used the UBE though via wireless.


I'm also using UBE through wireless with a fiber optic hdmi cable to the wireless transmitter.


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys. Couple quick questions about the new firmware. My first question is about HDR Modes. When I watch a 4K blu-ray, I always switch to HDR Mode 1 because the projector always defaults to HDR Mode 2 if you have Dynamic Range set to Auto. Everyone knows that when you change to HDR Mode 1, you HAVE to manually change back to Auto or the color looks terrible on non HDR content. Is this something that was fixed in the new firmware? Secondly, do you think they can add FI to 4K content in a firmware upgrade or will that have to be a hardware change? Thanks


----------



## JewDaddy

webmst said:


> dear all,
> i see a lot of repeat questions in this thread - not surprising after over 5700 messages
> so I've attached my notes from this thread in case they can help anybody. Some 203 and other notes are also in there. Many thanks to all those here who've given up their time to share their thoughts and help others .
> The notes are not in any particular order so you'll need to go through it all for yourself. I haven't included the latest 109 user experiences and settings yet.


Awesome pdf file!! Thanks!!

I was wondering a couple things. The settings you listed on your pdf are for 4k HDR Sources, what are your settings for regular non HDR Content such as movies and games? Still trying to find the right brightness, gamma and color temp but I keep going back and forth. Also, can you explain a little bit more in detail on how you are supposed to properly align the panel on this projector? This still confuses me. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to make the red and blue disappear behind the white lines or keep them outside to see them. Thanks


----------



## Whopper80

elmalloc said:


> Do you notice any lag when playing Witcher 3 via nvidia shield? I was thinking of connecting my PC to the transmitter, but if Nvidia shield is doing a decent enough job? I'd probably end up playing *Mass Effect 4 *(TM) like that (coming soon, to a store near you).


Seems to work fine, I have not noticed any noticable lag, at least with the Witcher. Its important though that the resolution and refresh rate set on the shield matches resolution and refresh rate in the game itself. Plus a GTX1080 in the PC and a gigabit LAN connection between PC and shield is helpful as well. Have not tested via WIFI but i dont think that would work as well as the LAN connection.


----------



## Whopper80

flapjackdowntheline said:


> I'm also using UBE through wireless with a fiber optic hdmi cable to the wireless transmitter.


Do you connect directly from the Shield to the wireless transmitter or do you go through an AV receiver or so? If so, the AV receiver might be the bottleneck.
Make sure too that resolution on the Shield matches the resolution and refresh rate on the Witcher settings.
And your graphics card in the PC needs to be fairly powerful to send the 4k 60hz over to the Shield.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Whopper80 said:


> Do you connect directly from the Shield to the wireless transmitter or do you go through an AV receiver or so? If so, the AV receiver might be the bottleneck.
> Make sure too that resolution on the Shield matches the resolution and refresh rate on the Witcher settings.
> And your graphics card in the PC needs to be fairly powerful to send the 4k 60hz over to the Shield.


I don't have a shield. I'm going fiber hdmi directly from gaming pc to the wireless transmitter. Gaming system is [email protected], 32gb ram, Titan X(Maxwell). I'm bypassing the receiver. It's not the receiver. I can't imagine it's the cord anymore, since I'm using a fiber optic hdmi cable.


----------



## chevpowr

Is anyone getting HDR from their Roku Premiere+? Specifically from the Netflix app? I have yet to get it to work, even after the 109 firmware.


----------



## covsound1

i don't game but i think you may be running at 600hz. if you can drop it to 320hz in the video card 420 that may work for a pc signal. the shield does that for you as it drops bit rate too. our chip in the projector will max out at 420 8bit 320hz at 4k 60hz .the cord not the problem. maybe a linker can help you. don't think 1080p at 12bits would hurt to much with this pj. hope this helps


----------



## v8maro

Ok so I updated to the 109 firmware... And now when I play a uhd bluray it doesn't come in on hdr! It says 12 bit 4:2:2 bt.709 SDR. I have the linker - do I need to change it so hdr comes through again???


----------



## jweinh

*5040ub + Xbox One S 4k Blurays*

Hey guys. I've had a 5040ub for a few weeks now and have been loving it - upgraded from an Epson 8350. I've had no issue getting 4k from the PS4 Pro, but today I went and grabbed a new Xbox One S to have a 4k bluray player. The Xbox One noticed it was 4k capable and switched the resolution to it - verified in the Epson menu. However, I popped in the Ultra HD version of Arrival and started the Bluray app - the resolution sent to the projector switched to 1080p. I've tried just about everything, and can't seem to get 4k blurays to play. 

Is anyone with a 5040ub and an Xbone S getting 4k blurays to play without using something like the HDFury?


----------



## covsound1

v8maro said:


> Ok so I updated to the 109 firmware... And now when I play a uhd bluray it doesn't come in on hdr! It says 12 bit 4:2:2 bt.709 SDR. I have the linker - do I need to change it so hdr comes through again???


yes go back to edit8 on the linker.


----------



## v8maro

covsound1 said:


> v8maro said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so I updated to the 109 firmware... And now when I play a uhd bluray it doesn't come in on hdr! It says 12 bit 4:2:2 bt.709 SDR. I have the linker - do I need to change it so hdr comes through again???
> 
> 
> 
> yes go back to edit8 on the linker.
Click to expand...

Could you explain more what that means?


----------



## aaranddeeman

v8maro said:


> Could you explain more what that means?


That could simply mean "Don't strip HDR" and send it as is. (I don't have HDFury, but I can guess)


----------



## bigabit

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. Couple quick questions about the new firmware. My first question is about HDR Modes. When I watch a 4K blu-ray, I always switch to HDR Mode 1 because the projector always defaults to HDR Mode 2 if you have Dynamic Range set to Auto. Everyone knows that when you change to HDR Mode 1, you HAVE to manually change back to Auto or the color looks terrible on non HDR content. Is this something that was fixed in the new firmware? Secondly, do you think they can add FI to 4K content in a firmware upgrade or will that have to be a hardware change? Thanks


The new Auto Bright setting will default to HDR 1 and leave SDR untouched. So that is fixed.

I doubt they will enable FI for 4k sources, but who knows.


----------



## bigabit

chevpowr said:


> Is anyone getting HDR from their Roku Premiere+? Specifically from the Netflix app? I have yet to get it to work, even after the 109 firmware.


I get HDR from Amazon but have never been able to get the Netflix app to even show the HDR badge on the listings. It makes me sad. But I don't think it has anything to do with the Epson. More likely a Roku or Netflix bug.

4k SDR looks amazing at least.


----------



## panman40

I'm in the UK and have been advised not to update my tw9300 to 109 from the USA website due to warranty reasons.

Looking at EU Epson site it still has 105 up.. I do hope they update this to the new 109 very soon.


----------



## ht guy

bigabit said:


> I get HDR from Amazon but have never been able to get the Netflix app to even show the HDR badge on the listings. It makes me sad. But I don't think it has anything to do with the Epson. More likely a Roku or Netflix bug.
> 
> 4k SDR looks amazing at least.


No issues doing that with my Shield TV.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

covsound1 said:


> i don't game but i think you may be running at 600hz. if you can drop it to 320hz in the video card 420 that may work for a pc signal. the shield does that for you as it drops bit rate too. our chip in the projector will max out at 420 8bit 320hz at 4k 60hz .the cord not the problem. maybe a linker can help you. don't think 1080p at 12bits would hurt to much with this pj. hope this helps


I'm not sure I understand what "600hz" and "320hz" mean in this context. Would they be pixel clocks? If so, how would I change that variable?


----------



## dataJunkie

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Aaaaaaaand I spoke to soon. Played Witcher 3, 4k60, 4:2:0, for about 30 minutes, and the drops started. This projector simply cannot accept 60hz 4k signals. Period.


Hi .. just my 2 cents. I've an Nvidia 1070 hooked up to this and have no issues with [email protected] Of course I have to drop texture etc to get it .. but it's there. I find 2560 x 1440 the sweet spot (for my spec anyway) for buttery smooth 60fps with ultra textures on Mafia III, Witcher 3, Doom etc. 

I also have Jriver running the Cinema element, and SVP for 60Hz playback (some people don't like it, but for a 110' screen, it looks awesome imo) ... and it runs no bother. 

I have the projector running through a Denon X6200W, PC Connected to same.

Do you have ARC Enabled anywhere in your HDMI Chain? It can play havoc sometimes as each device sends queries out to see who's requesting what. I had an issue with a UPC Horizon box that was cutting out Audio, and ARC was the issue.

Awaiting the drop of Horizon Zero Dawn and ME next week tho ... eek!


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

dataJunkie said:


> Do you have ARC Enabled anywhere in your HDMI Chain? It can play havoc sometimes as each device sends queries out to see who's requesting what. I had an issue with a UPC Horizon box that was cutting out Audio, and ARC was the issue.


Hmm, that's an intersting suggestion I hadn't considered. I don't use ARC, but maybe it's "active" somewhere in my chain. I'll look into that. Isn't that what the HDMI Link setting does on this projector, cuz that's always been on for me.



> Awaiting the drop of Horizon Zero Dawn and ME next week tho ... eek!


Very excited for HZD!


----------



## v8maro

aaranddeeman said:


> That could simply mean "Don't strip HDR" and send it as is. (I don't have HDFury, but I can guess)


yeah not sure, thats why I'm asking lol


----------



## bigabit

ht guy said:


> No issues doing that with my Shield TV.


Jealous man. I bought the Shield TV first and returned it because I also could only get HDR on Amazon but not Netflix. Tried everything. I know it's worked for other people on both devices.


----------



## bigabit

After trying more UHD discs with the new firmware I've found that on transfers that run dark you can pull a little harder on them with HDR 1 and some gamma boost, without blowing them out.

This has resulted in me storing an HDR 1 calibrated preset and one for HDR 2. The HDR 1 preset does some gamma boost, similar to what was previously suggested. The HDR 2 config leaves gamma at 0. Both were calibrated with Super White on. Sometimes you can get away with Super White off with very minimal detail loss and significant brightness boost.

I wish in addition to Auto Bright the firmware would allow defining a memory preset for HDR and SDR. And I would like to find a preset that works for all discs. But there is such a wide variance in transfers I'm not sure there will be a set and forget situation that yields the best results.

I have the Oppo 203 and have also compared HDR off and Strip Meta data since the new firmware on both devices. Both yield acceptable results with minimal drawbacks. Setting the HDR mode to SDR on the Epson looks nothing like Strip Metadata on the Oppo. Not sure if anyone has figured out how to make that usable.

But finding the right preset with HDR on has always been the best for every disc. Have not had a disc where I would rather turn HDR off or watch standard Bluray. Kind of a bummer it takes some guesswork but I will probably run HDR 2 by default and if a movie looks dark switch to HDR 1.

No question getting better results since update. I may even subject myself to Suicide Squad again.


----------



## JewDaddy

Does anyone have some type of instructional guide showing how to align the panels on the 5040? I'm still not quite sure what I'm looking for when aligning the panels.


----------



## covsound1

v8maro said:


> yeah not sure, thats why I'm asking lol


sorry for late response on your linker you should be in custom edit8. that is almost like a pass through.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Ok, so it sounds like in order to definitely solve the 4k60hz problem I'm having, I need to get an HDfury thingy to turn the 600mhz signal into a 4k60 4:2:0 300mhz signal. Do I get the Linker or the Integral? Does the Integral do everything the Linker does, plus more stuff?


----------



## covsound1

i think think the linker will give you the flexibility you need for gaming.i played billy lynn's 4kblueray it is 4k 60hz hdr not 24hz the projector defaulted to sdr 709 8 bit with out hdr. i hope this is not the future of 4k movies. please read post and ask that questions in the linker forum they are very promt to answer. at the end of the day this is still a 1080p projector with 2k enhancements and thats why the linker at 1080p with hdr may work for you.


----------



## dholmes54

I just got a 4k player ,Philips and haven't had any trouble with drop outs yet,but just realized that I've been playing at 24 fps not 60 is that the reason people are having trouble? I've a 4k vizio and it does 60 fps great,but I really can't tell the difference between 24 & 60,if I set my player at 60 with the Epson and have. trouble what do you guys do to solve it?Is the problem because the Epson is not a true 4k projector? Thxs sry long post. PS I bought 2 Philips player from Amazon I had some bonus $ built up & got them cheap!


----------



## spirithockey79

bigabit said:


> After trying more UHD discs with the new firmware I've found that on transfers that run dark you can pull a little harder on them with HDR 1 and some gamma boost, without blowing them out.
> 
> 
> 
> This has resulted in me storing an HDR 1 calibrated preset and one for HDR 2. The HDR 1 preset does some gamma boost, similar to what was previously suggested. The HDR 2 config leaves gamma at 0. Both were calibrated with Super White on. Sometimes you can get away with Super White off with very minimal detail loss and significant brightness boost.
> 
> 
> 
> I wish in addition to Auto Bright the firmware would allow defining a memory preset for HDR and SDR. And I would like to find a preset that works for all discs. But there is such a wide variance in transfers I'm not sure there will be a set and forget situation that yields the best results.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Oppo 203 and have also compared HDR off and Strip Meta data since the new firmware on both devices. Both yield acceptable results with minimal drawbacks. Setting the HDR mode to SDR on the Epson looks nothing like Strip Metadata on the Oppo. Not sure if anyone has figured out how to make that usable.
> 
> 
> 
> But finding the right preset with HDR on has always been the best for every disc. Have not had a disc where I would rather turn HDR off or watch standard Bluray. Kind of a bummer it takes some guesswork but I will probably run HDR 2 by default and if a movie looks dark switch to HDR 1.
> 
> 
> 
> No question getting better results since update. I may even subject myself to Suicide Squad again.




What color mode are you using for HDR? I also have the Oppo and between their latest beta FW and the Epson's recent 109 FW I was excited to try and get HDR looking better, but I still think I like the strip HDR feature on the Oppo. For HDR ON, I'm using Dig Cinema to keep the P3 color and have the manual iris down to 0 with gamma at 0. I find that HDR 2 is ok but picture looks better with super white OFF. I have not had a prof calibration yet. Interested in more detail on your settings. Thanks


----------



## migsta

*Firmware Update*

Does it reset your current projector settings? Fairly safe to do? I downloaded the following file and am about to do the update.

EPSONPJ_t5109_104.bin

Is that the correct file? Copied it to the USB stick, formatted as FAT32, and on the root. It's the only file on the stick.


----------



## covsound1

dholmes54 said:


> I just got a 4k player ,Philips and haven't had any trouble with drop outs yet,but just realized that I've been playing at 24 fps not 60 is that the reason people are having trouble? I've a 4k vizio and it does 60 fps great,but I really can't tell the difference between 24 & 60,if I set my player at 60 with the Epson and have. trouble what do you guys do to solve it?Is the problem because the Epson is not a true 4k projector? Thxs sry long post. PS I bought 2 Philips player from Amazon I had some bonus $ built up & got them cheap!


your phillips will work well with the projector set at 4.2.2. 12 bit and 24 frames. most movies are encoded for 24 frames. your tv can decode for 120 frames some people like that look and some dont. what happens is that you need a chip with more power that will not run over its limits or process more information than what is needed.look at webmst wikki to learn more it has been talked about great depth.


----------



## bigabit

spirithockey79 said:


> What color mode are you using for HDR? I also have the Oppo and between their latest beta FW and the Epson's recent 109 FW I was excited to try and get HDR looking better, but I still think I like the strip HDR feature on the Oppo. For HDR ON, I'm using Dig Cinema to keep the P3 color and have the manual iris down to 0 with gamma at 0. I find that HDR 2 is ok but picture looks better with super white OFF. I have not had a prof calibration yet. Interested in more detail on your settings. Thanks


Keep in mind I am maxing out the throw on this projector and am already losing a lot of light there. Not to mention projecting through glass. My screen is 1.2 gain and I have total light control, but the Cinema and Digital Cinema settings are not a viable option for me. Too dark. So I'm envious that you are able to run that. You could very well be looking at a better image than me already.

I'm in Natural or Bright Cinema, High Lamp Mode, with brightness and contrast adjusted with Disney WOW for SDR and some HDR10 test patterns I downloaded for HDR. No professional calibration.

Before the firmware update I was using Natural mode with the gamma boost. With new firmware I have a Bright Cinema setting that I use with HDR 1 for darker discs. The Natural preset I had set up before the update now blows out some skies. Not sure if that is due to changes in firmware.

I like to "calibrate" with Super White on so that if content is mastered on the dark side I have the option of turning it off. Or if we are watching sports or something I just turn it off.

I'm also pretty pumped on the 203 firmware update. Watching the UHD discs with Strip Metadata is great. When I say I prefer using HDR it's probably upwards of a 5% improvement in most cases. It just doesn't look worse ever so I'd rather not turn it off. I tell myself it's because that's how it was mastered but hilariously I'm not even getting P3 in the profiles I'm using so let's be real.

I'll post my settings this weekend. Still going through discs to try and dial them in.


----------



## migsta

migsta said:


> Does it reset your current projector settings? Fairly safe to do? I downloaded the following file and am about to do the update.
> 
> EPSONPJ_t5109_104.bin
> 
> Is that the correct file? Copied it to the USB stick, formatted as FAT32, and on the root. It's the only file on the stick.


The firmware update worked okay for me, thanks ALL for the help.

Is there any way to go back to default settings on the different modes (i.e. Cinema, Natural, etc.). I know we can save settings and load them from memory but if I switch from Cinema to Natural, for example, within a saved memory mode it seems to keep the settings from when that picture mode was modified on one of the memory settings.


----------



## spirithockey79

bigabit said:


> Keep in mind I am maxing out the throw on this projector and am already losing a lot of light there. Not to mention projecting through glass. My screen is 1.2 gain and I have total light control, but the Cinema and Digital Cinema settings are not a viable option for me. Too dark. So I'm envious that you are able to run that. You could very well be looking at a better image than me already.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in Natural or Bright Cinema, High Lamp Mode, with brightness and contrast adjusted with Disney WOW for SDR and some HDR10 test patterns I downloaded for HDR. No professional calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> Before the firmware update I was using Natural mode with the gamma boost. With new firmware I have a Bright Cinema setting that I use with HDR 1 for darker discs. The Natural preset I had set up before the update now blows out some skies. Not sure if that is due to changes in firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> I like to "calibrate" with Super White on so that if content is mastered on the dark side I have the option of turning it off. Or if we are watching sports or something I just turn it off.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also pretty pumped on the 203 firmware update. Watching the UHD discs with Strip Metadata is great. When I say I prefer using HDR it's probably upwards of a 5% improvement in most cases. It just doesn't look worse ever so I'd rather not turn it off. I tell myself it's because that's how it was mastered but hilariously I'm not even getting P3 in the profiles I'm using so let's be real.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post my settings this weekend. Still going through discs to try and dial them in.




Gotcha. I'm at the other end of the spectrum. I have almost the shortest throw possible for my screen, which is 110" 2.35 scope at ~11.5 ft. So I get plenty of fL, but still find that HDR2 can be a little too dark. Initially I thought HDR1 was the best setting but then hearing the issue with White's being overblown (and then seeing for myself on certain discs) I've been focused on trying to get HDR2 to work.


----------



## dholmes54

covsound1 said:


> your phillips will work well with the projector set at 4.2.2. 12 bit and 24 frames. most movies are encoded for 24 frames. your tv can decode for 120 frames some people like that look and some dont. what happens is that you need a chip with more power that will not run over its limits or process more information than what is needed.look at webmst wikki to learn more it has been talked about great depth.


Thxs,aren't most movies 24 frps? I seen the last Lord of the rings at 48 fps. and I thought it looked strange


----------



## ayrton

*New Guy*

Hi all,

First off I want to thank Craig Peer (AVS) for all the help he provided me in getting a projector going in my home theater. He was kind enough to invite me to his house for a demo. State of the art comes to mind. After this and 35 emails I have a 5040UBe, Stewart screen and a Chief mount. Purchased through Craig/AVS. Very happy with all.

Been an AVS member for quite awhile, but new to this thread. My 65" Panny. plasma kept getting smaller every day.

I'm at page 48 on this thread and won't bother asking questions until I've read it all.

Thanks guys and girls for all the info you provide!!


----------



## v8maro

covsound1 said:


> sorry for late response on your linker you should be in custom edit8. that is almost like a pass through.


Do you mean EDID 8? *4k60-420 12-bit HDR BT.2020 All Sound* ?

Isn't that 13.4Gbps which is more than the PJ can handle?


----------



## ac388

Can't wait to see what your settings are like for 4K with or without HDR, since currently I am not happy with any 4K settings on my 203/5040 combo. However, very happy with regular Bluray settings thru the WOW disc.




bigabit said:


> Keep in mind I am maxing out the throw on this projector and am already losing a lot of light there. Not to mention projecting through glass. My screen is 1.2 gain and I have total light control, but the Cinema and Digital Cinema settings are not a viable option for me. Too dark. So I'm envious that you are able to run that. You could very well be looking at a better image than me already.
> 
> I'm in Natural or Bright Cinema, High Lamp Mode, with brightness and contrast adjusted with Disney WOW for SDR and some HDR10 test patterns I downloaded for HDR. No professional calibration.
> 
> Before the firmware update I was using Natural mode with the gamma boost. With new firmware I have a Bright Cinema setting that I use with HDR 1 for darker discs. The Natural preset I had set up before the update now blows out some skies. Not sure if that is due to changes in firmware.
> 
> I like to "calibrate" with Super White on so that if content is mastered on the dark side I have the option of turning it off. Or if we are watching sports or something I just turn it off.
> 
> I'm also pretty pumped on the 203 firmware update. Watching the UHD discs with Strip Metadata is great. When I say I prefer using HDR it's probably upwards of a 5% improvement in most cases. It just doesn't look worse ever so I'd rather not turn it off. I tell myself it's because that's how it was mastered but hilariously I'm not even getting P3 in the profiles I'm using so let's be real.
> 
> I'll post my settings this weekend. Still going through discs to try and dial them in.


----------



## covsound1

v8maro said:


> Do you mean EDID 8? *4k60-420 12-bit HDR BT.2020 All Sound* ?
> 
> Isn't that 13.4Gbps which is more than the PJ can handle?


it can handle that just fine. what year is your camaro? i have a 15 ss black 6 speed.


----------



## webmst

JewDaddy said:


> Awesome pdf file!! Thanks!!
> 
> I was wondering a couple things. The settings you listed on your pdf are for 4k HDR Sources, what are your settings for regular non HDR Content such as movies and games? Still trying to find the right brightness, gamma and color temp but I keep going back and forth. Also, can you explain a little bit more in detail on how you are supposed to properly align the panel on this projector? This still confuses me. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to make the red and blue disappear behind the white lines or keep them outside to see them. Thanks


Ok I don't have my 8300 here (Epson Australia are looking into the noise problem for me. 49-50Db instead of 21-32Db as spec'd). so I can't help you with the exact settings I was using, but I started with about 4 or 5 memories of settings based on the excellent work of the people on this thread. Then I tweaked those as required. I didn't do a "full" calibration ( not enough hours on the unit i thought to warrant that yet).

Now focus was in the pdf but not exact alignment so this is how I got there (Anyone chime in if you have a better/alternative way).
Focus First 
First (and most importantly) turn off all enhancements incl 4K; super white; detail enhancement etc etc. If you're feeling really excited factory reset 
Check everything is either 'off" or set to "0" in all the areas of "image" and advanced etc etc.
Then use a menu screen or pattern or alignment screen (anything with a really precise image from inside the projector for this step to focus the pixels - stand next to the screen. Get the focus roughly right. Then for fine adjustment - use the focus on the remote in 1 step intervals back and forth until your image is as sharp as possible (take your glasses off if that helps .

Only then attack the alignment of panels.
Each of the colours (yes we're in Oz with the extra "u" heehee )
needs to sit exactly aligned with each other.
Ideally the 3 colours blend exactly and are separately "invisible" as separated colours.
Use the same remote technique (1 step back and forth) as for focusing.
In the end you should only "see" a white vertical and horizontal line.
If they don't align no matter what you do - maybe your setup (physical alignment etc) is a bit "up the creek".
Like others have previously stated - spend a lot of time getting the physical right.
Avoid having to use the in built trapezoidal adjustments - ("trap" is the right word here) great for presentation and quick setup in board rooms etc, but not so good for critical home theatre where you're asking the projector to "process" the picture to achieve this change.
Ideally you end up with 2 lovely white lines on your screen and you can show the family and I'm sure they will all go "oooh" and "argh" when you explain in detail what they all mean 
It's a journey for the whole family 
My dogs have been watching me calibrate this new projector and previously my old Sony CRT since being puppies and now just sleep through it all...............except the subwoofer tests (I've got JBL 2242's and 2241's) when they usually wake up and start barking thinking we've been invaded by aliens again.................:laugh:


----------



## v8maro

covsound1 said:


> v8maro said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you mean EDID 8? *4k60-420 12-bit HDR BT.2020 All Sound* ?
> 
> Isn't that 13.4Gbps which is more than the PJ can handle?
> 
> 
> 
> it can handle that just fine. what year is your camaro? i have a 15 ss black 6 speed.
Click to expand...

No matter what setting I put it on now hdr isn't active from my Xbox one s. 

I used to have a 99ss but sold it long ago. Never updated my username lol. I've since had some nice cars


----------



## v8maro

covsound1 said:


> v8maro said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you mean EDID 8? *4k60-420 12-bit HDR BT.2020 All Sound* ?
> 
> Isn't that 13.4Gbps which is more than the PJ can handle?
> 
> 
> 
> it can handle that just fine. what year is your camaro? i have a 15 ss black 6 speed.
Click to expand...

Actually - weird - popped in a different hdr movie and now it's working? Weird. Idk what gives.


----------



## dan webster

Has anyone with a 5040 previously had a jvc 4910 or equivalent.I have been using my jvc recently with a fury integral along with a new samsung 8500 uhd player. It works pretty well for 4k but hdmi handshakes are not the best. I have thought about a newer jvc but this epson has caught my eye. My biggest questions are how does black level on the 5040 compare to my older jvc and how are hdmi lock on times. I just dont want to get an epson and have buyers remorse. My jvc has been rock solid for 2 years but for 4k i am not that happy.


----------



## vince.janik

Hi fellow Audio/Video freaks. Im new to the forum. I enlisted because of the bulk of shared user experiences of this projector. Very interesting to read about all of your joy (and challenges) with this projector. I am about to order the projector (TW9300, since Im from the Netherlands). 

Still some minor doubts:
- My theatre room is fairly small. 10.83ft x 13,91ft. Lens to screen probably around 12.5ft. I planning to build a DIY 120inch 2.35:1 screen with spandex (white over silver). I am fiddling with the calculator on projector central, and it says it should be possible. Im not totally assured that my wishes are possible (in terms of size, PQ). 
- Yesterday i read that Optoma is also about to launch a new series of 4K PJs (UHD60 and UHD65) in july. If you were in my shoes, would you wait or just buy the UB5040? Of course it might have the same HDR 'issues', it probably is a big guess, same goes for input lag. 

I got interested in the UB5040 because of the general positive reviews and low input lag for gaming. 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

vince.janik said:


> Hi fellow Audio/Video freaks. Im new to the forum. I enlisted because of the bulk of shared user experiences of this projector. Very interesting to read about all of your joy (and challenges) with this projector. I am about to order the projector (TW9300, since Im from the Netherlands).
> 
> Still some minor doubts:
> - My theatre room is fairly small. 10.83ft x 13,91ft. Lens to screen probably around 12.5ft. I planning to build a DIY 120inch 2.35:1 screen with spandex (white over silver). I am fiddling with the calculator on projector central, and it says it should be possible. Im not totally assured that my wishes are possible (in terms of size, PQ).
> - Yesterday i read that Optoma is also about to launch a new series of 4K PJs (UHD60 and UHD65) in july. If you were in my shoes, would you wait or just buy the UB5040? Of course it might have the same HDR 'issues', it probably is a big guess, same goes for input lag.
> 
> I got interested in the UB5040 because of the general positive reviews and low input lag for gaming.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


Hi,

Many of us are in the exact same boat! I sold my marvelous Epson 8350 (2D/gaming) projector. Probably lowest lag of any non short throw projector (I think it was at 18-20ms).

The BenQ HT8050 (4K DLP), Epson 5040UB (4K enhancement) and the upcoming UHD60 from Optoma are good to look at for replacements. I read the input lag on the 5040UB is still very good, I recall reading a number between 25-30ms.

The JVC RS420 should also be in your consideration, I think it's 32-37ms with the 2017 model. Its blacks are probably going to be better but it's perceived sharpness (from what I read) is not as nice as the 5040.

ELmO


----------



## vince.janik

elmalloc said:


> Hi,
> 
> Many of us are in the exact same boat! I sold my marvelous Epson 8350 (2D/gaming) projector. Probably lowest lag of any non short throw projector (I think it was at 18-20ms).
> 
> The BenQ HT8050 (4K DLP), Epson 5040UB (4K enhancement) and the upcoming UHD60 from Optoma are good to look at for replacements. I read the input lag on the 5040UB is still very good, I recall reading a number between 25-30ms.
> 
> The JVC RS420 should also be in your consideration, I think it's 32-37ms with the 2017 model. Its blacks are probably going to be better but it's perceived sharpness (from what I read) is not as nice as the 5040.
> 
> ELmO


The Benq certainly looks appealing too, but that pricepoint (8000,- USD) is out of my league. Also, no motorised lense shift/memory for that price? 

Also considering the JVC RS420 now, thanks for the tip!

Vince 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

vince.janik said:


> The Benq certainly looks appealing too, but that pricepoint (8000,- USD) is out of my league. Also, no motorised lense shift/memory for that price?
> 
> Also considering the JVC RS420 now, thanks for the tip!
> 
> Vince
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


That's MSRP, don't think the BENQ will street for that price. You can contact AVS for pricing on RS420 or the closeout RS400 is a good price, too.


----------



## covsound1

v8maro said:


> Actually - weird - popped in a different hdr movie and now it's working? Weird. Idk what gives.


ok it does work. you have a sink problem . this will happen sometimes when you change formats say streaming something and changing to a 4k hdr blue ray. resink you can force by switching to hdmi 2 on the projector and back to hdmi1. 2.0a handshake is a pain my panny one out of ten times will not sink.


----------



## v8maro

covsound1 said:


> ok it does work. you have a sink problem . this will happen sometimes when you change formats say streaming something and changing to a 4k hdr blue ray. resink you can force by switching to hdmi 2 on the projector and back to hdmi1. 2.0a handshake is a pain my panny one out of ten times will not sink.


Thanks! I was wondering if it was something dumb like that, will test more tonight!


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs covsound1,I guess the reason I can't tell the difference in the 24-60 hz is my eyes are pushing 63yrs old,& got a cataract on one eye,but I can tell the pq difference between std blu-ray and 4k not a big difference but some.


----------



## covsound1

the linker is getting a lot of press with jvc owners as a new coustom edit allows di function with hdr. in a nut shell it strips the hdr tag but still sends it through with all its glory. you get di iris function manual iris control and bt2020 with hdr. have any with the linker updated fw and does this work for our projectors?


----------



## elmalloc

covsound1 said:


> the linker is getting a lot of press with jvc owners as a new coustom edit allows di function with hdr. in a nut shell it strips the hdr tag but still sends it through with all its glory. you get di iris function manual iris control and bt2020 with hdr. have any with the linker updated fw and does this work for our projectors?


is the linker the same as the HD Fury or is it something else?


----------



## RobertHT

Anyone else having this strange white line issue? Running from an oppo 95 to Marantz 8802a. Overscan is grayed out as well as 4k eshift. I turned the video processing in the Marantz on and off without change. Any thoughts of what might be causing the line on letterbox only. Thanks for any insight


----------



## v8maro

covsound1 said:


> the linker is getting a lot of press with jvc owners as a new coustom edit allows di function with hdr. in a nut shell it strips the hdr tag but still sends it through with all its glory. you get di iris function manual iris control and bt2020 with hdr. have any with the linker updated fw and does this work for our projectors?


I'm running 1.09, and a linker with .19 fw - tell me how to do this and I will test it tonight (I don't know much about all these settings like Iris ect)


----------



## v8maro

elmalloc said:


> is the linker the same as the HD Fury or is it something else?


HD Fury is the company that makes the Linker (product) - so yes, same.


----------



## abs

While we're on the subject of the linker which I'll need to pass a hdcp 2.2 signal from my virgin v6 box through my non hdcp 2.2 receiver. Instead of using a linker could I use the money towards an oppo blu ray player? Would I be able to use the oppo the same way as a linker for all my sources. Is there an option for this? If so I'd rather put my £170 towards a 4k player. 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk


----------



## migsta

*No Picture Upon Turning ON*

A couple of times now, since updating to 1.09, I got "Performing Wireless HD Connection" blinking on the screen and then it just goes to no picture but just sound. This happens upon turning ON the projector. I can hit MENU on the remote and get the MENU but no picture. I turned it OFF and then back ON and it came up OK. Not sure what that's about?


----------



## covsound1

elmalloc said:


> is the linker the same as the HD Fury or is it something else?[/QUOTE yes hd fury linker or hdfury integral. the linker can scale say 4k to 1080 and keep hdr. the fury can split the signal to give you two or act as a switcher for two different sources. both can give you a new custom edit.


----------



## covsound1

v8maro said:


> I'm running 1.09, and a linker with .19 fw - tell me how to do this and I will test it tonight (I don't know much about all these settings like Iris ect)


i asked in the linker forum no response at this point. i think you have the latest fw. play with the edits when you get one that has strange color but does not say hdr you hit gold! i cant do this as i have the integral.


----------



## spirithockey79

RobertHT said:


> Anyone else having this strange white line issue? Running from an oppo 95 to Marantz 8802a. Overscan is grayed out as well as 4k eshift. I turned the video processing in the Marantz on and off without change. Any thoughts of what might be causing the line on letterbox only. Thanks for any insight




I experienced this issue but thought it was my Oppo 203, which is still pretty buggy. Never thought it might be the Epson. Anyway, just stopped the disc and restarted without issue.


----------



## panman40

Has anyone checked/measured black levels and gamma after the 109 update ?. To


----------



## whmacs

Hi All,
For 8300 / 9300 / 9300W owners, Epson Australia has now put v109 up on the Australian Epson site:
http://www.epson.com.au/products/home-theatre-projectors/?grouptypeID=32

Click on 'more info' -> downloads -> 'All' and scroll down the page to the firmware section.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## eshabtai

*Shield TV 5.1 update*

Anyone tried the new shield tv 5.1 update?
Are you still getting Netflix and Amazon in HDR?

Everything works so well on the Shield with the 5040 so I'm worried the update may break something but I do want to get the surround fixes for the amazon app that come with the update...

BTW: having tried both the new Roku and Chromecast ultra, none work well with the 5040. Shield is the only streamer that allows streaming all sources in 24fps which in turn leaves enough bandwidth to get HDR when supported.


----------



## bigabit

ac388 said:


> Can't wait to see what your settings are like for 4K with or without HDR, since currently I am not happy with any 4K settings on my 203/5040 combo. However, very happy with regular Bluray settings thru the WOW disc.


I've been working on a few different presets since the firmware update. I decided to take photos to post with my settings but they didn't really turn out. I think they at least illustrate the difference in brightness. I posted the preset and photos in a PDF here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6ghJQw4OSBMNHhvcTktZEdCblE/view?usp=sharing

These are the settings I am currently using the most:

HDR Mode - Auto Bright
Mode - Bright Cinema
Brightness - 52
Contrast - 46
Color - 57
Tint - 45
Color Temp. - 5
Skin Tone - 3
Super White - ON
Gamma - 0,10,22,27,29,30,29,14,0


----------



## NoTechi

eshabtai said:


> Anyone tried the new shield tv 5.1 update?
> Are you still getting Netflix and Amazon in HDR?
> 
> Everything works so well on the Shield with the 5040 so I'm worried the update may break something but I do want to get the surround fixes for the amazon app that come with the update...
> 
> BTW: having tried both the new Roku and Chromecast ultra, none work well with the 5040. Shield is the only streamer that allows streaming all sources in 24fps which in turn leaves enough bandwidth to get HDR when supported.


Not sure if it is related to the Shield or the Epson Firmware update but I don't get HDR anymore in Netflix and I am back to BT2020 SDR. I tried the "turn 50Hz" on, reboot the shield, "turn 23Hz on" without success. 

NoTechi


----------



## panman40

bigabit said:


> I've been working on a few different presets since the firmware update. I decided to take photos to post with my settings but they didn't really turn out. I think they at least illustrate the difference in brightness. I posted the preset and photos in a PDF here:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6ghJQw4OSBMNHhvcTktZEdCblE/view?usp=sharing
> 
> These are the settings I am currently using the most:
> 
> HDR Mode - Auto Bright
> Mode - Bright Cinema
> Brightness - 52
> Contrast - 46
> Color - 57
> Tint - 45
> Color Temp. - 5
> Skin Tone - 3
> Super White - ON
> Gamma - 0,10,22,27,29,30,29,14,0


Your hdr1 bright pictures look pretty good, what is hdr1 "brighter" ?.


----------



## bigabit

panman40 said:


> Your hdr1 bright pictures look pretty good, what is hdr1 "brighter" ?.


Just the custom name for that memory/preset. It's similar to HDR1 Bright but disables Super White and boosts contrast more. It only works on really dark discs or on some animated movies. Kind of like a last resort, I don't really use it.


----------



## migsta

*HD Fury and/or Linker*

If I have the following: 6040UB, AVM60, Panny UHD UB900, HTPC, Bluray Player, TiVo, etc.

Is there any benefit to getting an HD Fury and/or Linker in my setup. If so, what is the benefit and do I need one or both and how would I connect the device(s)?


----------



## elmalloc

*5040UBE/UB about to get a massive discount from Epson*

Hi,

I was about to pull the trigger on the 5040UBE and I heard from an authorized retailer that Epson is having an absolutely killer deal starting next week on both the 5040UBE/UB. 

They said Epson usually doesn't discount their wireless models. I heard the discount is from Epson, so it should be across the board on dealers, but not sure. It's a heavy discount and I will* definitely become an Epson 5040UBE owner *next week!

ELmO


----------



## v8maro

bigabit said:


> ac388 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see what your settings are like for 4K with or without HDR, since currently I am not happy with any 4K settings on my 203/5040 combo. However, very happy with regular Bluray settings thru the WOW disc.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been working on a few different presets since the firmware update. I decided to take photos to post with my settings but they didn't really turn out. I think they at least illustrate the difference in brightness. I posted the preset and photos in a PDF here:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6ghJQw4OSBMNHhvcTktZEdCblE/view?usp=sharing
> 
> These are the settings I am currently using the most:
> 
> HDR Mode - Auto Bright
> Mode - Bright Cinema
> Brightness - 52
> Contrast - 46
> Color - 57
> Tint - 45
> Color Temp. - 5
> Skin Tone - 3
> Super White - ON
> Gamma - 0,10,22,27,29,30,29,14,0
Click to expand...

This is awesome! Thanks so much. I'll be trying this tonight! You rock!


----------



## migsta

*Hdmi link*



migsta said:


> A couple of times now, since updating to 1.09, I got "Performing Wireless HD Connection" blinking on the screen and then it just goes to no picture but just sound. This happens upon turning ON the projector. I can hit MENU on the remote and get the MENU but no picture. I turned it OFF and then back ON and it came up OK. Not sure what that's about?


I think this was being caused by HDMI LINK being set to ON. I don't recall ever changing this setting but it seemed to be the cause. I'm not sure what wireless device it would be trying to connect to though? I noticed that this setting showed a Wireless HD Device when I was getting a blank image with just sound and the Epson Menu screen. When I turned HDMI LINK to OFF, it no longer goes to "Performing Wireless HD Connection".


----------



## airbag41

Quick question on firmware update, I ran it and all seemed to work. However when I go to projector info > main I get a long string of letters / numbers which ends in V108. Does that mean it did not work?


----------



## Snoogleheimer

YIPPIE! I just ordered my 5040ub. For anyone interested, Mike Garrett @ AV Science has by far the best price, which started yesterday. 

[email protected]
877-823-4452 ext 102


----------



## rjguk

airbag41 said:


> Quick question on firmware update, I ran it and all seemed to work. However when I go to projector info > main I get a long string of letters / numbers which ends in V108. Does that mean it did not work?


There are two possibilities. First is that it worked, but you used the 1.08 file because the Epson site still serves that instead of the 1.09 file. (Most likely).
See a page or two back for the fixed link so you get the correct file.
The other possibility is that you had the correct file but for some reason it didn't work. (Less likely). If you've still got the file on the USB stick you'll be able to see whether it is really 108 or 109..


----------



## airbag41

rjguk said:


> There are two possibilities. First is that it worked, but you used the 1.08 file because the Epson site still serves that instead of the 1.09 file. (Most likely).
> See a page or two back for the fixed link so you get the correct file.
> The other possibility is that you had the correct file but for some reason it didn't work. (Less likely). If you've still got the file on the USB stick you'll be able to see whether it is really 108 or 109..



No you are right, I missed the link issue and probably didn't have the correct one. Will go back and review. Thanks for you help!


----------



## bluer101

elmalloc said:


> Hi,
> 
> I was about to pull the trigger on the 5040UBE and I heard from an authorized retailer that Epson is having an absolutely killer deal starting next week on both the 5040UBE/UB.
> 
> They said Epson usually doesn't discount their wireless models. I heard the discount is from Epson, so it should be across the board on dealers, but not sure. It's a heavy discount and I will* definitely become an Epson 5040UBE owner *next week!
> 
> ELmO


I have until March 19 at BB forprice match.


----------



## lgreis

Snoogleheimer said:


> YIPPIE! I just ordered my 5040ub. For anyone interested, Mike Garrett @ AV Science has by far the best price, which started yesterday.
> 
> [email protected]
> 877-823-4452 ext 102


It is an epson promotion?

Enviado do meu Hi8 pro através de Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

Snoogleheimer said:


> YIPPIE! I just ordered my 5040ub. For anyone interested, Mike Garrett @ AV Science has by far the best price, which started yesterday.
> 
> [email protected]
> 877-823-4452 ext 102


welcome to the 5040 club! I usually see you over in the Pioneer Elite AVR thread.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

lgreis said:


> It is an epson promotion?
> 
> Enviado do meu Hi8 pro através de Tapatalk


I think so.


----------



## lgreis

Snoogleheimer said:


> I think so.


Do you know what percentage of discount?

Enviado do meu Hi8 pro através de Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

I picked up a new screen to go with the 5040ub. It's the Elite Screens Edge Free Aeon series AR100WH2. I watched a few of 4k Videos on Youtube and boy do they look nice! My old screen worked well but with the added brightness from the 5040ub sometimes there would be hotspots during really bright scenes. This new Elite screen handles it all like a champ!


----------



## lgreis

elmalloc said:


> Hi,
> 
> I was about to pull the trigger on the 5040UBE and I heard from an authorized retailer that Epson is having an absolutely killer deal starting next week on both the 5040UBE/UB.
> 
> They said Epson usually doesn't discount their wireless models. I heard the discount is from Epson, so it should be across the board on dealers, but not sure. It's a heavy discount and I will* definitely become an Epson 5040UBE owner *next week!
> 
> ELmO


What do you mean an heavy discount?

Enviado do meu Hi8 pro através de Tapatalk


----------



## lgreis

Snoogleheimer said:


> $2499.00


Thats really good... Maybe its time to upgrade from my 6030


----------



## lgreis

Can anyone confirm what is the max contrast ratio in cinema mode, low lamp and and iris at minimum, i read that is 9500.1 can anyone confirm this? And can it be calibrated for bt709?

Enviado do meu Hi8 pro através de Tapatalk


----------



## Snoogleheimer

lgreis said:


> Do you know what percentage of discount?
> 
> Enviado do meu Hi8 pro através de Tapatalk


Oops, not allowed to talk price, sorry.


----------



## crumby2

lgreis said:


> Can anyone confirm what is the max contrast ratio in cinema mode, low lamp and and iris at minimum, i read that is 9500.1 can anyone confirm this? And can it be calibrated for bt709?
> 
> Enviado do meu Hi8 pro através de Tapatalk


Unlike reviews i have better contrast with Natural iris-20 (~9000) than Cinemode iris-20 (~7500)
I havent be able to calibrate to perfect 709 on cinemode on my model. Not possible on green.

Also note than Cinemode with iris at minimum (-20) in "low lamp" mode may be too dark (less than 12fL) unless you have a small screen.


----------



## ac388

Thanks a lot !!! Will try them all this weekend. However, I forgot the gain of your screen. Mine is a 92" Stewart with 1.3 gain from 12ft. away.

P.S. It will be perfect if you can share the setting on 203 too. 




bigabit said:


> I've been working on a few different presets since the firmware update. I decided to take photos to post with my settings but they didn't really turn out. I think they at least illustrate the difference in brightness. I posted the preset and photos in a PDF here:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6ghJQw4OSBMNHhvcTktZEdCblE/view?usp=sharing
> 
> These are the settings I am currently using the most:
> 
> HDR Mode - Auto Bright
> Mode - Bright Cinema
> Brightness - 52
> Contrast - 46
> Color - 57
> Tint - 45
> Color Temp. - 5
> Skin Tone - 3
> Super White - ON
> Gamma - 0,10,22,27,29,30,29,14,0


----------



## john fusco

lgreis said:


> Do you know what percentage of discount?
> 
> Enviado do meu Hi8 pro através de Tapatalk




$500 off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bigabit

ac388 said:


> Thanks a lot !!! Will try them all this weekend. However, I forgot the gain of your screen. Mine is a 92" Stewart with 1.3 gain from 12ft. away.
> 
> P.S. It will be perfect if you can share the setting on 203 too.


My screen is 1.2 gain CenterStageXD...

Lately I've been using Source Direct on the 203. No picture adjustments. 4:2:2 12-bit, everything else Auto.


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks. It seems your settings should work on mine since screen gain about same n even the 203 setting is exactly same too.


----------



## lgreis

crumby2 said:


> Unlike reviews i have better contrast with Natural iris-20 (~9000) than Cinemode iris-20 (~7500)
> I havent be able to calibrate to perfect 709 on cinemode on my model. Not possible on green.
> 
> Also note than Cinemode with iris at minimum (-20) in "low lamp" mode may be too dark (less than 12fL) unless you have a small screen.


I have a dalite high power 2.8 gain 119', thats why i was interested to know if i could use the 5040 with it. I have a 6030 and its too bright, 24fl, raises the blacks too much, 6500.1 native. So if i could use cinema mode with 246 ansi lumens, its about 16fl with my screen and 9500.1 native it will be very good. But the greens is a problem... maibe with a 3dlut could resolve?

Enviado do meu GT-I9505 através de Tapatalk


----------



## Craig Peer

john fusco said:


> $500 off
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Starts on the 26th, and ends March 11th. Applies to the 5040UB and 5040UBe !


----------



## Toxic69

hey thread.. i'm happy to say i became a 6040ub owner this past weekend. 

its soo awesome i just love it.. i'm using a 135" scope screen and totally love the motorized lens. 

any tips for a newb


----------



## Evan201

NoTechi said:


> Not sure if it is related to the Shield or the Epson Firmware update but I don't get HDR anymore in Netflix and I am back to BT2020 SDR. I tried the "turn 50Hz" on, reboot the shield, "turn 23Hz on" without success.
> 
> NoTechi


I have updated to the new Shield 5.1 but im still at the V108 firmware on Epson and everything is working properly. 

Should I not update the firmware to the V109? What other benefits come with the V109?


----------



## NoTechi

Evan201 said:


> I have updated to the new Shield 5.1 but im still at the V108 firmware on Epson and everything is working properly.
> 
> Should I not update the firmware to the V109? What other benefits come with the V109?


I just tried to reboot the shield with 23Hz and now Netflix works again with HDR. So it looks like no reboot with setting at 50Hz is required (its even not working then) anymore!

NoTechi


----------



## Evan201

NoTechi said:


> I just tried to reboot the shield with 23Hz and now Netflix works again with HDR. So it looks like no reboot with setting at 50Hz is required (its even not working then) anymore!
> 
> NoTechi


THAT'S GREAT NEWS. Does the new 109 firmware improve HDR capabilities mainly or what?


----------



## NoTechi

Evan201 said:


> THAT'S GREAT NEWS. Does the new 109 firmware improve HDR capabilities mainly or what?


The main change is that u get a new bright auto option which will select HDR1 instead of HDR2 once a HDR signal is detected.

NoTechi


----------



## Evan201

NoTechi said:


> The main change is that u get a new bright auto option which will select HDR1 instead of HDR2 once a HDR signal is detected.
> 
> NoTechi


That sounds cool. Going to try it out tonight with some Netflix HDR material. I don't really want to invest in the $30 UHD disks and a philips player or OPPO. 
Spent a lot this year in home theater already. HA.


----------



## NoTechi

Evan201 said:


> That sounds cool. Going to try it out tonight with some Netflix HDR material. I don't really want to invest in the $30 UHD disks and a philips player or OPPO.
> Spent a lot this year in home theater already. HA.


It's not as good as some UHD discs but still great once u figuerd out the settings which best fits your taste. 

NoTechi


----------



## elmalloc

Does the Oppo 203 play well wth this projector? I thought I read no. There are too many devices to sift through in this thread on what inputs we should use!


----------



## sub_ohm

The 6040 is HANDS DOWN my first suggestion for any normal person (not wanting to spend a fortune) looking to install a home theater.


----------



## LumensLover

sub_ohm said:


> The 6040 is HANDS DOWN my first suggestion for any normal person (not wanting to spend a fortune) looking to install a home theater.


JVC 420 is better for the same price range.


----------



## dholmes54

LumensLover said:


> JVC 420 is better for the same price range.


Why are you telling us this in the Epson thread? We know JVC makes good projectors,makes us feel we bought the wrong projector! I like my 6040!


----------



## Snoogleheimer

LumensLover said:


> JVC 420 is better for the same price range.


No it isn't. The RS500 is, but, for a lot more $$$.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

sub_ohm said:


> The 6040 is HANDS DOWN my first suggestion for any normal person (not wanting to spend a fortune) looking to install a home theater.


Agreed.


----------



## thomasfarkos

hi, is this a good projector for movies?


----------



## Evan201

thomasfarkos said:


> hi, is this a good projector for movies?


ITS SUPER KILLER for standard 1080 blu rays. Plus more as stated in the 197 pages of thread.


----------



## LumensLover

Snoogleheimer said:


> No it isn't. The RS500 is, but, for a lot more $$$.


I have owned both. The new JVC RS420 is hands down better than the 6040. Sharper image, better color accuracy, and much better blacks.

I sent the 6040 back after a week.


----------



## PeterJ101

*Epson 5040UBE or the JVC 420*

Going nuts trying to decide. I want the full 18GBPS for HDR on the JVC, but the brightness and Wireless of the 5040UBE are also important. Any opinions? Anyone think the more future proof 18GBPS full HDR support of the JVC is worth the extra money? Especially now that I hear the Epson is about to go on sale. Any hope for a JVC sale? Hard decisions.


----------



## joel dickman

*jvc or epson?*



LumensLover said:


> JVC 420 is better for the same price range.


The older JVC RS400 is presently available for around $3000 on close-out. The newer JVC RS420 with superior low lag time for gamers is around $4000. JVC replacement lamps are $559.

The Epson 5040UB will be available for $2500 in a few days, and replacement lamps (from Epson) go for $300. Epson replacement lamps may be available for less elsewhere.

The JVC projectors have the blackest blacks. Nobody disputes this. But the Epson blacks - while inferior to the JVC - are still very good. Perhaps good enough for people who do not watch in a dedicated bat-cave environment.

The Epson is likely brighter than the JVC, according to Evan Powell of* projectorcentral.com.* The Epson has greater "perceived sharpness", according to Art Feierman of *projectorreviews.com*. Some people dispute this last point, claiming that while the Epson has superior "_perceived_ sharpness", it does not have superior _actual _sharpness. Here we enter into the realm of projector metaphysics. I fail to understand this distinction myself. For my money, perceived sharpness is the only kind of sharpness worthy of the name. But what do I know?

The JVC chipset makes it compatible with a wider range of gaming consoles and streaming devices than the Epson. The Epson thread is full of complaints about this issue.

Both projectors seem to have problems doing HDR. 

All the above is gleaned from reading alone. I have had only very brief viewing sessions with the two projectors, and that was in a terrible environment for making comparisons. The best way to choose would be to have both machines in your own home over a period of weeks, switching back and forth. Seeing is believing. For most of us doing this is not feasible.

It is not clear to me that one projector is superior to the other.

Happy viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## bigabit

PeterJ101 said:


> Going nuts trying to decide. I want the full 18GBPS for HDR on the JVC, but the brightness and Wireless of the 5040UBE are also important. Any opinions? Anyone think the more future proof 18GBPS full HDR support of the JVC is worth the extra money? Especially now that I hear the Epson is about to go on sale. Any hope for a JVC sale? Hard decisions.


I would not buy either of these projectors based on future-proofing. Too early for HDR. The discs aren't even mastered consistently. But for now these are a fun upgrade over plain 1080p. To me it makes more sense to spend less now and upgrade to real 4K and better established HDR when it's available. Whatever you decide go in with realistic expectations.

If the wireless is important I would buy the 5040UBE. That will also solve nearly all the problems (if any) that come from lack of 18BGPS support.

Also whatever you decide be sure to go into the other forum and tell everybody that it's better.


----------



## Toxic69

i too looked at the JVC but the horrific input lag turned me away, i'm a casual gamer and the JVC wont do. So happy with my 6040ub


----------



## gene4ht

joel dickman said:


> The older JVC RS400 is presently available for around $3000 on close-out. The newer JVC RS420 with superior low lag time for gamers is around $4000. JVC replacement lamps are $559.
> 
> The Epson 5040UB will be available for $2500 in a few days, and replacement lamps (from Epson) go for $300. Epson replacement lamps may be available for less elsewhere.
> 
> The JVC projectors have the blackest blacks. Nobody disputes this. But the Epson blacks - while inferior to the JVC - are still very good. Perhaps good enough for people who do not watch in a dedicated bat-cave environment.
> 
> The Epson is likely brighter than the JVC, according to Evan Powell of* projectorcentral.com.* The Epson has greater "perceived sharpness", according to Art Feierman of *projectorreviews.com*. Some people dispute this last point, claiming that while the Epson has superior "_perceived_ sharpness", it does not have superior _actual _sharpness. Here we enter into the realm of projector metaphysics. I fail to understand this distinction myself. For my money, perceived sharpness is the only kind of sharpness worthy of the name. But what do I know?
> 
> The JVC chipset makes it compatible with a wider range of gaming consoles and streaming devices than the Epson. The Epson thread is full of complaints about this issue.
> 
> Both projectors seem to have problems doing HDR.
> 
> All the above is gleaned from reading alone. I have had only very brief viewing sessions with the two projectors, and that was in a terrible environment for making comparisons. The best way to choose would be to have both machines in your own home over a period of weeks, switching back and forth. Seeing is believing. For most of us doing this is not feasible.
> 
> *It is not clear to me that one projector is superior to the other.
> *


Agreed...and cudos for a well balanced summary/perspective. IMO, it comes down to preferred features, personal preference, and budget.



bigabit said:


> I would not buy either of these projectors based on future-proofing. Too early for HDR. The discs aren't even mastered consistently. But for now these are a fun upgrade over plain 1080p. To me it makes more sense to spend less now and upgrade to real 4K and better established HDR when it's available. Whatever you decide go in with realistic expectations.


Also agreed...my thoughts exactly!



bigabit said:


> Also whatever you decide be sure to go into the other forum and tell everybody that it's better.


I normally don't engage...but just this once...I can't resist saying....Don't feed the trolls!


----------



## Snoogleheimer

bigabit said:


> Also whatever you decide be sure to go into the other forum and tell everybody that it's better.


lol, kids will be kids.


----------



## Evan201

NoTechi said:


> I just tried to reboot the shield with 23Hz and now Netflix works again with HDR. So it looks like no reboot with setting at 50Hz is required (its even not working then) anymore!
> 
> NoTechi


Confirmed using new 109 firmware. 
So mine is only showing 4k UHD titles on Netflix if I do the old reboot in 50 and then switch to 23hz. 

But I am no longer able to get the HDR signal even after pulling up HDR titles in the search menu like I was able to before. Any thoughts?


----------



## Snoogleheimer

LumensLover said:


> I have owned both. The new JVC RS420 is hands down better than the 6040. Sharper image, better color accuracy, and much better blacks.
> I sent the 6040 back after a week.


I have checked out a RS400, RS500, and an Epson 5040ub. The RS400 just wasn't bright enough for a multipurpose room. The deeper blacks didn't matter to me since I don't have a pitch black dedicated theater. Also, the 5040 had a sharper image. Now, I thought the image of the RS500 was awesome. I almost bought one (you can get them for $4500.00 now), however, since I plan on selling my PJ in a year and upgrading, the $2500.00 price tag of the 5040 was more appealing. _(I am actually shocked what people are paying for used PJs)._ lol I sure hope I can get $2000.00 for my PJ next year. That would be great.


----------



## Ronman79

I'm not a troll, and I've been following both threads. With everything that I've seen and heard, I believe I've settled on the JVC RS420 (maybe possible 520). I believe the Epson is a great machine. However, the limitations of the chipset are a factor. "Perceived sharpness" is not actual sharpness, but is a valid observation of an Epson-leaning reviewer. Even in that comparison, and Art's "best ofs", he put the previous JVC as the performance champ. The current series changes the one thing that tipped the scales for me with the Epson - the input lag... The superior contrast, by a long shot, is what made it so hard to not go with JVC in the first place. The Epson brightness advantage is also not there when properly calibrated....Also, that brings to mind the "advantage" of the Epson having the full P3 color gamut. With the mode(s) that will display that, the Epson is so darkened with the filter in place...

That said, I have yet to buy a projector for my theater room expansion being built next month! I've studies both of these 2 (or 4) projectors very closely! These are great units with great competition and fans!!! God bless.... 😱😵😈😂😂😂

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Ronman79 said:


> I believe I've settled on the JVC RS420 (maybe possible 520).


Man, if you can swing it, &, you plan on keeping it for an extended period of time, go with the RS520.


----------



## Ronman79

Snoogleheimer said:


> Man, if you can swing it, &, you plan on keeping it for an extended period of time, go with the RS520.


What's your thought of selling in a year and upgrading? I'm curious. I will have a dedicated, "batcave" room when needed. I do think the 520 would of course have more longevity, but I'm thinking we're on the cusp of other things and technology in the industry. I know... There's always something on the horizon, but seriously, this 4K, HDR, WCG, laser, led stuff is early stage, especially in projectors.... Fact. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

Snoogleheimer said:


> I have checked out a RS400, RS500, and an Epson 5040ub. The RS400 just wasn't bright enough for a multipurpose room. The deeper blacks didn't matter to me since I don't have a pitch black dedicated theater. Also, the 5040 had a sharper image. Now, I thought the image of the RS500 was awesome. I almost bought one (you can get them for $4500.00 now), however, since I plan on selling my PJ in a year and upgrading, the $2500.00 price tag of the 5040 was more appealing. _(I am actually shocked what people are paying for used PJs)._ lol I sure hope I can get $2000.00 for my PJ next year. That would be great.


I agree with you about the lack of brightness with the JVC RS420. Especially in a multipurpose room paired with a alr screen. However the 5040/6040's calibrated lumens are very low which lends itself to the same problem as the JVC.

I also did not trust the electric lens movement on the 6040. Seemed much too fragile.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Ronman79 said:


> What's your thought of selling in a year and upgrading? I'm curious. I will have a dedicated, "batcave" room when needed. I do think the 520 would of course have more longevity, but I'm thinking we're on the cusp of other things and technology in the industry. I know... There's always something on the horizon, but seriously, this 4K, HDR, WCG, laser, led stuff is early stage, especially in projectors.... Fact.


Well, that is the MAIN reason I went with a 5040 ($2499.00 new). I think things are gonna get real interesting in a year, so, didn't want to invest long term. Also, I found resale values on PJs are amazingly good (especially lower cost models). 

For some reason, I didn't think the RS400 kicked the 5040's ass. But, I wasn't able to compare side by side, and, I'm no expert. Now, the RS500 I checked out a couple weeks ago? WOW! I was VERY impressed. Maybe I should have bought it, IDK. I just thought $2500.00 was the smarter move right now. Life is full of choices. lol


----------



## Snoogleheimer

LumensLover said:


> I agree with you about the lack of brightness with the JVC RS420. Especially in a multipurpose room paired with a alr screen. However the 5040/6040's calibrated lumens are very low which lends itself to the same problem as the JVC.
> 
> I also did not trust the electric lens movement on the 6040. Seemed much too fragile.


Well, I didn't think the RS400 was a bad PJ. I liked it, but, like I mentioned in previous thread, I just didn't think it kicked the 5040's ass. Maybe if I was able to do a side by side comparison, my opinion would have been different. Now, when I checked out the RS500, I immediately could tell it was in a different league. Almost bought one. Wanted to check out a RS600 too (you can get those for around $6000.00 now). Hell, they listed for $9000.00. Oh well, I'll only have the 5040 for about a year probably.


----------



## Smarty-pants

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Okay...so, this isn't very comforting. Just got off the phone with Epson technical support. Explained my issue, the ways I've tried to isolate and rule out the source of the problem. The response:
> 
> Tech support: "So, you need to drop the 4k source signal from 60hz to 25hz"
> 
> Me: "Well, yeah, if I reduce the signal from 60hz to 30hz or 24hz, then I don't get signal drops. But I want a 60hz signal. I thought the projector accepted 4k60hz signals. The signal I'm sending is 4k60hz chroma 4:2:0, so it should meet the bandwidth limitations of the system"
> 
> Tech support: "No, sir, it doesn't support that. We recommend 4k at 25hz."





flapjackdowntheline said:


> Well, this is a bummer. Ran the fiber optic hdmi straight into pj. Tried to play a game 4k60hz. Nope. Didn't make it more than 2 minutes in before signal drop that never recovered. Had to alt-tab back out to desktop, which was set to 1080p, to get image back. Titan X(M), passing 4:2:2, 4k60hz. This projector won't take it. Not over wireless, not hard wired. Pretty bummed.


With the Epson FauxK projectors, the 4K/60 input must be limited to 4:2:0 color space and 8bit color.
You can not go higher for the color space or deep color with 4K/60, or you exceed the 10.2 GBps limitation of the input.
With 4K/24-25-30, you can do 4:2:2 / 12bit OR 4:4:4 / 8bit.

If you use a device like a UHD Blu-ray player, it will read the EDID info coming from the Epson and only send one of those
combinations mentioned. If you use a source device where you can override that push something else that exceeds the bandwidth
limitation, you will run into problems.

No "cable" is going to magically increase what the input can handle.
My advice would be to return the Celerity cable you bought since it's overkill for the Epson and not needed.
Of course you may be somewhat future proof if you decide to buy a different pj in a couple years that does
use higher bandwidth signals, then the cable might be useful, but I willing to bet that better cables in longer
lengths will be available for cheaper prices within that time frame.


----------



## Smarty-pants

elmalloc said:


> Does the Oppo 203 play well wth this projector? I thought I read no. There are too many devices to sift through in this thread on what inputs we should use!


The Oppo still has some slight issues depending on your needs, but should be worked out soon via firmware updates.
The 203 owners thread will shed more light on details if you want to know, ask there.
As for how it pairs up with the Epson projectors in general, there are no issues there at all that I can see. It works great with my 5040UB.


----------



## LumensLover

Snoogleheimer said:


> Well, I didn't think the RS400 was a bad PJ. I liked it, but, like I mentioned in previous thread, I just didn't think it kicked the 5040's ass. Maybe if I was able to do a side by side comparison, my opinion would have been different. Now, when I checked out the RS500, I immediately could tell it was in a different league. Almost bought one. Wanted to check out a RS600 too (you can get those for around $6000.00 now). Hell, they listed for $9000.00. Oh well, I'll only have the 5040 for about a year probably.


My main problem with the 5040 and 6040 is their price points. I believe the 5040 would be a great projector for $2,000. At $2,500 I would consider it a decent deal.

At $3000 it is overpriced. At $4,000 it is in JVC territory. It is not 4k. It's hdr features are lackluster. And there are numerous issues being reported with it's lens memory/motorized lens.


----------



## lgreis

Snoogleheimer said:


> No it isn't. The RS500 is, but, for a lot more $$$.


Every jvc as internal reflections that epson dont, been there, see that! Had both the rs500 and rs520 in my home and give up on jvc because of that, for me give the money that could buy 2 5040 and see reflection in the image that a could not control thats kills ansicontraste is unaceptable... yes jvc is the best when it comes to very dark scenes, no questions ask, but not all movies are like alien or prometheous, the epson can reach to almoust more 30% ansi than jvc... like jvc this year give a machine with low lag game to not lose selings to epson; i hope epson does the same in ifa2017 and give us an 5050 with 15000.1 native!!!


----------



## elmalloc

One thing when deciding on a projector (for either dedicated home use, or multi use environment) - there is no _"this is my last projector"._

Both the JVC and Epson will hold value OK if you do want to get into the flipping game. I own a Sim2 which I paid a pretty penny for, based on your budget, the more you spend - the more liable you will be to hold onto the projector for longer.

One thing is for sure in life, you don't know what you have until it's gone. So once you find that "magic", it's time to stop reading AVSForum.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Smarty-pants said:


> With the Epson FauxK projectors, the 4K/60 input must be limited to 4:2:0 color space and 8bit color.
> You can not go higher for the color space or deep color with 4K/60, or you exceed the 10.2 GBps limitation of the input.
> With 4K/24-25-30, you can do 4:2:2 / 12bit OR 4:4:4 / 8bit.
> 
> If you use a device like a UHD Blu-ray player, it will read the EDID info coming from the Epson and only send one of those
> combinations mentioned. If you use a source device where you can override that push something else that exceeds the bandwidth
> limitation, you will run into problems.
> 
> No "cable" is going to magically increase what the input can handle.
> My advice would be to return the Celerity cable you bought since it's overkill for the Epson and not needed.
> Of course you may be somewhat future proof if you decide to buy a different pj in a couple years that does
> use higher bandwidth signals, then the cable might be useful, but I willing to bet that better cables in longer
> lengths will be available for cheaper prices within that time frame.


I mis-typed the chroma setting in that post. I am using 4k/60/4:2:0/8bit from the gaming PC (at least that's what the nVidia control panel says is being output). So I've been getting consistent drops at 4k/60/4:2:0/8bit on a fiber optic hdmi line. It happens whether I go directly into the wireless transmitter or through my AVR. Somebody else posted that the TMDS clock of the signal from the PC may be 600Mhz and a Linker may be necessary to convert to 300Mhz. My HDfury Linker arrives today. I'm hoping that can resolve the issue.

Does anyone know if pc games can override the color settings set in the desktop? I've run through everything I can at this point, and other than that my pj is broken or the pj really cannot consistently work with 4k/60 signal at any chroma setting, I wonder if games can set their own chroma settings? Although, when I am running a game and check pj info, it always says it's in 4k/60/4:2:0/8bit mode. I'm just kinda at a loss here.


----------



## AVmaster319

10.2G HDMI 2.0 and 18G HDMI 2.0 is creating a huge market confusion and manufacturers do not actively state which HDMI version their products support. Especially when they only support 10.2G


----------



## NoTechi

Evan201 said:


> Confirmed using new 109 firmware.
> So mine is only showing 4k UHD titles on Netflix if I do the old reboot in 50 and then switch to 23hz.
> 
> But I am no longer able to get the HDR signal even after pulling up HDR titles in the search menu like I was able to before. Any thoughts?



Looks like I was too fast in thinking it might finally work. When I reboot with 23Hz I was able to watch 4k hdr (Daredevil). Now i realized I don't see the UHD section anymore. So a reboot with 50Hz brings the UHD section back and it stays there after switching to 30Hz ... but then I don't get HDR anymore ... sigh


I tried to put the linker in between but then I can't switch to 23Hz anymore (Fury switches back to 50Hz regardless what I do)


What a mess ... :/


Update: After lots of switching and rebooting I got 4k hdr and the UHD section back ... no clue how and I bet next reboot it will be gone again ...


NoTechi


----------



## leo9000

Has anyone tried to play the new 4K UHD blu-ray of Billy Lynn's Long Halftime Walk in 60fps? I put it in to see how it looked on my Philips BDP7501 player and the Epson does not seem to be outputting HDR. I had just updated the firmware to 109.


----------



## seplant

*Image enhancement exclusions*

Interesting info from Epson here. I don't recall seeing this posted in this thread anywhere. I sent in a request to Epson asking if any settings could disable frame interpolation, as my 6040 always seemed to have that option grayed out, and they sent me this. Turns out you can't do frame interpolation if the "fast" mode is enabled, only if the "fine" mode is enabled. Who knew?


----------



## Evan201

NoTechi said:


> Looks like I was too fast in thinking it might finally work. When I reboot with 23Hz I was able to watch 4k hdr (Daredevil). Now i realized I don't see the UHD section anymore. So a reboot with 50Hz brings the UHD section back and it stays there after switching to 30Hz ... but then I don't get HDR anymore ... sigh
> 
> 
> I tried to put the linker in between but then I can't switch to 23Hz anymore (Fury switches back to 50Hz regardless what I do)
> 
> 
> What a mess ... :/
> 
> 
> Update: After lots of switching and rebooting I got 4k hdr and the UHD section back ... no clue how and I bet next reboot it will be gone again ...
> 
> 
> NoTechi



So I figured out how to receive HDR to the Epson using the Shield with all current firmware and updates. I searched "HDR" in the amazon app and played some coral reef stuff. Checked my INFO and yep, receiving HDR. The new HDR Auto Bright setting looks great. Very cool. All I really care about is BT2020 in SDR anyway so don't really mind losing it in Netflix that much. Looks AMAZING on this PJ. 
If you're UHD menu isn't showing up in Netflix, it seems the reboot in 50 then switching to 24hz does the trick. I only sleep mine so it seems to stay put unless the power goes out.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

So this is interesting. Got the Linker today, and hooked it up so that my setup goes like this: gaming pc > linker > AVR > pj. Gaming PC output set to 4k60, 4:4:4, 8bit. Linker output set to 4k60, 4:2:0, 8bit, 300Mhz. I was still getting dropouts! They weren't lasting as long, so there's that.

Here's where it got really interesting. Put the linker into HDCP 1.4 mode instead of 2.2. Played Dishonered 2 4k60 for 30 minutes. Ordinarily I would have experienced a handful of dropouts within that frame, but nothing. I'm gonna play around some more tomorrow, but it appears forcing HDCP 1.4 fixed the dropouts. Scratching my head.


----------



## elmalloc

flapjackdowntheline said:


> So this is interesting. Got the Linker today, and hooked it up so that my setup goes like this: gaming pc > linker > AVR > pj. Gaming PC output set to 4k60, 4:4:4, 8bit. Linker output set to 4k60, 4:2:0, 8bit, 300Mhz. I was still getting dropouts! They weren't lasting as long, so there's that.
> 
> Here's where it got really interesting. Put the linker into HDCP 1.4 mode instead of 2.2. Played Dishonered 2 4k60 for 30 minutes. Ordinarily I would have experienced a handful of dropouts within that frame, but nothing. I'm gonna play around some more tomorrow, but it appears forcing HDCP 1.4 fixed the dropouts. Scratching my head.


Thanks for the hard work on this, as other PC gamers are watching!


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

elmalloc said:


> Thanks for the hard work on this, as other PC gamers are watching!


As I side note, if you need to be convinced that this projector puts out an image better than 1080p, and that native 4k content looks better than the 4k enhancement mode, hook a gaming pc up to this thing and look at 1080p, 1080p with e-shift 4k, and native 4k. E-shift 4k isn't even close in this context. Native 4k content looks incredible!


----------



## elmalloc

flapjackdowntheline said:


> As I side note, if you need to be convinced that this projector puts out an image better than 1080p, and that native 4k content looks better than the 4k enhancement mode, hook a gaming pc up to this thing and look at 1080p, 1080p with e-shift 4k, and native 4k. E-shift 4k isn't even close in this context. Native 4k content looks incredible!


Up close pictures, necessary! Sounds like I'll need to hook up a GTX1080 to this machine. Can the Shield stream 4K wirelessly on the same network? I've got a 1080 in the living room for HTC Vive, would hate to have to build another rig in the game room if I didn't have to!


----------



## Battleship-7

flapjackdowntheline said:


> So this is interesting. Got the Linker today, and hooked it up so that my setup goes like this: gaming pc > linker > AVR > pj. Gaming PC output set to 4k60, 4:4:4, 8bit. Linker output set to 4k60, 4:2:0, 8bit, 300Mhz. I was still getting dropouts! They weren't lasting as long, so there's that.
> 
> Here's where it got really interesting. Put the linker into HDCP 1.4 mode instead of 2.2. Played Dishonered 2 4k60 for 30 minutes. Ordinarily I would have experienced a handful of dropouts within that frame, but nothing. I'm gonna play around some more tomorrow, but it appears forcing HDCP 1.4 fixed the dropouts. Scratching my head.


You have to select the 1080p resolution output on the Nvidia. (bottom selection in resolution setting screen)


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Battleship-7 said:


> You have to select the 1080p resolution output on the Nvidia. (bottom selection in resolution setting screen)


I don't think I understand what you're suggesting. I don't 1080p going to the projector. I want 4k60hz going to the projector. In the nVidia control panel I have the output to the Linker set to 3840x2160, 4:4:4, 8bit. The Linker converts the signal to 3840x2160, 4:2:0, 8bit, 300Mhz, and downgrades HDCP to 1.4 from 2.2, which seems to allow a stable signal to the projector. Why would I want to select 1080p at this point?


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

elmalloc said:


> Up close pictures, necessary! Sounds like I'll need to hook up a GTX1080 to this machine. Can the Shield stream 4K wirelessly on the same network? I've got a 1080 in the living room for HTC Vive, would hate to have to build another rig in the game room if I didn't have to!


Gotta work right now. I'll take some pictures later. Plenty of folks have Shields around here, so hopefully they can chime in. Based on what I've read of the Shield, you probably won't have an ideal experience using it wirelessly. If you can get Ethernet to it, it apparently works pretty well, though.

My gaming PC doubles as my office workstation, which is a floor up and near the other side of the house. I've run a fiber optic hdmi cable and powered usb cable through the wall from my office to the basement media closet. USB cable attaches to a hub that has controller and keyboard dongles. I think my fiber optic cable is 40'. I use Displayfusion to setup hotkeys to easily switch the gaming pc display to the projector (can even use my phone to do it).

If you can hardwire your gaming pc to the projector, do that before getting a Shield. Not because the Shield isn't awesome, a direct connection is obviously better than streaming, plus there might be some games or applications you might want to use that can't be streamed.


----------



## elmalloc

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Gotta work right now. I'll take some pictures later. Plenty of folks have Shields around here, so hopefully they can chime in. Based on what I've read of the Shield, you probably won't have an ideal experience using it wirelessly. If you can get Ethernet to it, it apparently works pretty well, though.
> 
> My gaming PC doubles as my office workstation, which is a floor up and near the other side of the house. I've run a fiber optic hdmi cable and powered usb cable through the wall from my office to the basement media closet. USB cable attaches to a hub that has controller and keyboard dongles. I think my fiber optic cable is 40'. I use Displayfusion to setup hotkeys to easily switch the gaming pc display to the projector (can even use my phone to do it).
> 
> If you can hardwire your gaming pc to the projector, do that before getting a Shield. Not because the Shield isn't awesome, a direct connection is obviously better than streaming, plus there might be some games or applications you might want to use that can't be streamed.


Makes sense, I was thinking last resort I'll connect the PC to the wireless transmitter but it seems like you or others were having problems with that. Can't really do hardwire in this situation (or feeling too lazy right now with the basement area being finished). I'll have my 5040uBE next week to see how stuff goes, I might connect the 980TI to it, don't want to waste my 1080 in this area, but not sure the 980TI can keep up with 4K gaming (even a single 1080 can't I think?).


----------



## TheGizzard

I plan on using my shield with my GTX 1080. So I will be able to report back. I hope to stream 4K from my PC to the shield. Over gigabit LAN of course. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

TheGizzard said:


> I plan on using my shield with my GTX 1080. So I will be able to report back. I hope to stream 4K from my PC to the shield. Over gigabit LAN of course.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


AFAIK, 4K streaming does not need as much bandwidth as people think (15Mbps?). The lag is what I might worry about, but I'm not sure on that front anymore with the WiGig/60hz technology running around.

I won't be able to hard wire anything as my router/modem is in the basement where I'm working on a LAN gaming setup.


----------



## Battleship-7

flapjackdowntheline said:


> I don't think I understand what you're suggesting. I don't 1080p going to the projector. I want 4k60hz going to the projector. In the nVidia control panel I have the output to the Linker set to 3840x2160, 4:4:4, 8bit. The Linker converts the signal to 3840x2160, 4:2:0, 8bit, 300Mhz, and downgrades HDCP to 1.4 from 2.2, which seems to allow a stable signal to the projector. Why would I want to select 1080p at this point?


I'm just relaying what Epson told me to do and it worked for me. I had my output set to 4K and the 3D would only play side by side with the 3D settings greyed out. I switched to 1080p output on the Nvidia and I was able to switch to 3D viewing.


----------



## TheGizzard

He is talking about 3D. 3D doesn't work in 4K I assume. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Battleship-7 said:


> I'm just relaying what Epson told me to do and it worked for me. I had my output set to 4K and the 3D would only play side by side with the 3D settings greyed out. I switched to 1080p output on the Nvidia and I was able to switch to 3D viewing.


Oh, I see. Yeah, you can't do 4k and 3D. I'm not trying to do 3D. I just want to get consistent 4k60 without signal drops. Based on my tinkering so far with the Linker, it seems like it's an issue with HDCP. HDCP 2.2 seems to be pretty temperamental in my setup. I don't know why, exactly, but using the Linker to downgrade HDCP to 1.4 seems to have fixed the drops so far. I'll have more time to play with it tonight to make sure the Linker has solved the problem.


----------



## JackOften

TheGizzard said:


> I plan on using my shield with my GTX 1080. So I will be able to report back. I hope to stream 4K from my PC to the shield. Over gigabit LAN of course.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I've been using a 1080 (no OC) with a shield (gigabyte LAN)for over a month. Works great with 4k/60 4:2:0. Been playing Skyrim SE maxed out, hovers around 50-60fps.

If you guys are looking for 4k gaming benchmarks you should take a look at gaming websites. General consensus is that the 1080 won't do 4k maxed out, you need to turn down the settings on some modern games.


----------



## PeterJ101

I know this has been asked a few times, but I was wondering if there are any updates. I know the 5040 Ub or UBE can't use HDR or REC 2020 while using the XBOX One or PS4 Pro in 4k. But Is it possible for the Xbox or Ps4 to do HDR or Rec 2020 while in 1080P? Or is there any sort of combo they can do this sort of thing? 

Does anyone that purchased the 5040UB have any regrets with the limitation of the 10.2 GBPS? Do you feel you're missing out at all on HDR gaming? Any opinions/ personal experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

PeterJ101 said:


> I know this has been asked a few times, but I was wondering if there are any updates. I know the 5040 Ub or UBE can't use HDR or REC 2020 while using the XBOX One or PS4 Pro in 4k. But Is it possible for the Xbox or Ps4 to do HDR or Rec 2020 while in 1080P? Or is there any sort of combo they can do this sort of thing?
> 
> Does anyone that purchased the 5040UB have any regrets with the limitation of the 10.2 GBPS? Do you feel you're missing out at all on HDR gaming? Any opinions/ personal experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


I haven't played around with HDR as much as a lot of other people around here have, but from what I have seen I haven't found it that compelling. I just don't think there's enough brightness in these projectors for HDR. It's kind of a crude sense of taste, but I'm more immersed by the sheer size of the display than I am by HDR, and I have a 65" 4K/HDR Samsung. Yeah, it looks nice and all, but I'd rather watch whatever it is I want to watch or play on a big ass ****ing screen. lol

The 10GBPS thing is a real bummer for me only because it limits any incoming 4k60 signal to 4:2:0. That's probably something only gamers are gonna but annoyed by, but there it is.


----------



## v8maro

flapjackdowntheline said:


> So this is interesting. Got the Linker today, and hooked it up so that my setup goes like this: gaming pc > linker > AVR > pj. Gaming PC output set to 4k60, 4:4:4, 8bit. Linker output set to 4k60, 4:2:0, 8bit, 300Mhz. I was still getting dropouts! They weren't lasting as long, so there's that.
> 
> Here's where it got really interesting. Put the linker into HDCP 1.4 mode instead of 2.2. Played Dishonered 2 4k60 for 30 minutes. Ordinarily I would have experienced a handful of dropouts within that frame, but nothing. I'm gonna play around some more tomorrow, but it appears forcing HDCP 1.4 fixed the dropouts. Scratching my head.


I used my after my AVR and have my linker set to EDID 2
I then check both the 4k60 and 4k30 in the scaler tab, setting them to my preference


----------



## Jem87

What's the best settings to use to get deep blacks on bright cinema ECO?


----------



## Jem87

I've had the 5040 projector for about 3 weeks, working fine and all, but the last few days I've noticed some noise coming from it. I have it set to Bright cinema ECO, auto iris and 4k enchantment off. Here's a few short videos up close to the projector: 

https://vid.me/f4N5

https://vid.me/ZOcf

It should be quieter than this, no? What could be the problem?

Just wanted to get some of your thoughts before I try getting a replacement. 

Thanks.


----------



## webmst

My 5040 /8300 Noise Issue Update

I sent my 8300 (5040) back with noise issues to my retailer who sent it to their tech support.
That was 3 weeks ago. They reported they could not reproduce my noise issue. I quizzed them in some detail and found they had only powered the unit on (no material played through it and placed it on carpet before listening to it although they had not measured the sound.
I measured the unit at 49-51Db from 2metres - 0.3metres respectively. I have 2 sound level meters (sound engineer and video/TV production editor in another life). 
That was on a low profile Epson ceiling-mount with a standard plaster board (Gyprock) 2.4.m ceiling. The unit had just completed a 2 hr blu ray movie and operates only in ECO/ Cinema mode with 4K enhancement on. The noise level is the same after 2 minutes or 2 hours.
Operating specifications state 21-32 Db for this unit.
I spoke to a senior Epson tech in Sydney before returning the unit who confirmed this was not operating within design and I should return the unit for inspection.

The unit is being shipped from Canberra to Sydney to Epson direct next week to determine what is happening.

I'll be a month without a projector and I"m getting a bit wobbly.................but I think it is a problem and 50Db is evident during movies so I don't think it operating as it should.

I asked this before and got no takers so I try again ---> can anyone else dust off their sound meter and check what they get from their 5040/8300 or 6040/9300 please ?
Love to know how my unit compares to others.


----------



## rjguk

I'm happy to do some measurements on my 7300. Are you talking about fan noise, or the coil whine on 60Hz material?


----------



## bluer101

Jem87 said:


> I've had the 5040 projector for about 3 weeks, working fine and all, but the last few days I've noticed some noise coming from it. I have it set to Bright cinema ECO, auto iris and 4k enchantment off. Here's a few short videos up close to the projector:
> 
> https://vid.me/f4N5
> 
> https://vid.me/ZOcf
> 
> It should be quieter than this, no? What could be the problem?
> 
> Just wanted to get some of your thoughts before I try getting a replacement.
> 
> Thanks.


That rumbling noise sounds like the auto iris set to fast or normal, but you say it is off along with 4K.


----------



## jsrdlr

bluer101 said:


> That rumbling noise sounds like the auto iris set to fast or normal, but you say it is off along with 4K.




I thought they said the iris was set to auto. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

Jem87 said:


> I've had the 5040 projector for about 3 weeks, working fine and all, but the last few days I've noticed some noise coming from it. I have it set to Bright cinema ECO, auto iris and 4k enchantment off. Here's a few short videos up close to the projector:
> 
> https://vid.me/f4N5
> 
> https://vid.me/ZOcf
> 
> It should be quieter than this, no? What could be the problem?
> 
> Just wanted to get some of your thoughts before I try getting a replacement.
> 
> Thanks.





jsrdlr said:


> I thought they said the iris was set to auto.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Above highlighted in red he says auto iris and 4K off. 


Auto iris has 3 settings. 

Off, high speed, and normal. 

This is what I said, 

"That rumbling noise sounds like the auto iris set to fast or normal, but you say it is off along with 4K."

I was questioning it sounds like it's on, but he says it's off.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Well, bad news for me. With the Linker in my chain I'm absolutely positive the projector is being sent a signal that fits well within its bandwidth limitations (4k60, 4:2:0, 8bit, 300Mhz), and I'm still getting dropouts! I don't know what else could be going on other than something is wrong with my projector. Jesus, I've spend over $500 on fiber optic cables and a Linker.


----------



## rjguk

I just made some preliminary measurements. The calibrated UMIK-1 mic was 1.2 metres directly below the ceiling mounted 7300 (that's where we sit).
I used REW to do the measurements. 
First one was with everything off, except the laptop I was using. That does produce some very quiet fan noise so I kept it as far away as possible. These images probably don't show enough detail so I'll make the actual .mdat file available if anyone wants to load them up. The green line is the quiet room, the other line is ECO, 60Hz, iris off. All traces including the quiet baseline have a spike at 120Hz, that may be something in the house like the fridge or maybe the laptop. Below about 40 Hz the levels are probably mostly distant wind, traffic etc.
:









Next is the quiet room compared to Medium lamp:









Now quiet room compared to High lamp:










This one is 50Hz (green) material compared to 60Hz:









What's interesting there is that 60Hz has a whine which is noticeable, yet 50Hz shows much higher (but less audible) levels at lower frequencies. The 'whine' is the spike at 420Hz, but unless it is my imagination it seems a lot less noticeable than before - I'm on firmware 1.09 now.

Here's a link to the .mdat file so that those with REW can load it up and see the full resolution of the traces: https://dl.dropbox.com/s/3z67fheledx5ult/PJ noise compilation.mdat?dl=0

I don't believe I'm able to show much that will help webmst, although in my case there is no objectionable noise so perhaps this is simply a reference for a good unit. An SPL meter may weight it differently, but then the traces above show more information. The baseline is measuring about 12 dB at 270Hz, while the ECO mode is showing 25 dB at that frequency (that's a peak).

I can do more measurements if required, subject to finding a quiet time.


----------



## jsrdlr

bluer101 said:


> Above highlighted in red he says auto iris and 4K off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Auto iris has 3 settings.
> 
> 
> 
> Off, high speed, and normal.
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I said,
> 
> 
> 
> "That rumbling noise sounds like the auto iris set to fast or normal, but you say it is off along with 4K."
> 
> 
> 
> I was questioning it sounds like it's on, but he says it's off.




Yeah, I read it the other way but you're prob right!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

jsrdlr said:


> Yeah, I read it the other way but you're prob right!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Lol, now seeing it it can mean both ways, but the and is throwing me off. Hope OP comes back to set it straight and finds the answer. 

I hear that same sound only with auto iris engaged. It makes more noise on high speed. Reminds me of a hard drive.


----------



## etrigand

There's a lot of good information in this thread, but the first post hasn't been updated since October, and (as lovely as you're writing is) it's difficult to leaf through it looking for what I need.

Can someone summarize the best set up for an Xbox One S? It looks like some of you are using HD Fury? Does that force it to give us HDR?


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Good Lord. I have a 5040ub on order. I think when it gets here, I'm just gonna pick a factory preset, and be happy with it. Thank God I'm not much of a videophile. My main prerequisite was *BIG*! And then, I want a nice ALR screen, which I will be ordering soon. Oh, and UHD Bluray players? OMG! What a horror show. Can you guys recommend a decent one that will work with this PJ? Just thought it was better to ask 5040 owners. I'm not real picky. I will spend big bucks if needed. You can PM me answers off thread if you'd like. I need to order one and my head is spinning. lol


----------



## bluer101

Snoogleheimer said:


> Good Lord. I have a 5040ub on order. I think when it gets here, I'm just gonna pick a factory preset, and be happy with it. Thank God I'm not much of a videophile. My main prerequisite was *BIG*! And then, I want a nice ALR screen, which I will be ordering soon. Oh, and UHD Bluray players? OMG! What a horror show. Can you guys recommend a decent one that will work with this PJ? Just thought it was better to ask 5040 owners. I'm not real picky. I will spend big bucks if needed. You can PM me answers off thread if you'd like. I need to order one and my head is spinning. lol


I'm pretty much out of the box settings with a few tweaks. Also no 4K source or material either. I'm very happy with my bluray's picture and what the 4K enhance does.


----------



## gene4ht

Snoogleheimer said:


> Good Lord. I have a 5040ub on order. I think when it gets here, *I'm just gonna pick a factory preset, and be happy with it.* Thank God I'm not much of a videophile. My main prerequisite was *BIG*! And then, I want a nice ALR screen, which I will be ordering soon. Oh, and UHD Bluray players? OMG! What a horror show. Can you guys recommend a decent one that will work with this PJ? Just thought it was better to ask 5040 owners. *I'm not real picky.* I will spend big bucks if needed. You can PM me answers off thread if you'd like. I need to order one and my head is spinning. lol


If you truly say you are what you are, then the Philips should satisfy your needs very well...and this deal below from Monoprice presently can't be beat! I have both the Philips and the Oppo. The Oppo has some birthing issues that will eventually be resolved. The Philips will simply do what it does w/o issue and is IMO 95% of the Oppo's PQ at 1/3 the price...YMMV.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p...&utm_content=18812&utm_campaign=170220_monday


----------



## whmacs

webmst said:


> My 5040 /8300 Noise Issue Update
> 
> I asked this before and got no takers so I try again ---> can anyone else dust off their sound meter and check what they get from their 5040/8300 or 6040/9300 please ?
> Love to know how my unit compares to others.


Hi Webmst,
I took a few measurements this morning while the house has quite. I was using the SPLPro app on my iPhone 6S+ with Slow and C weighting set. 

The room measured 33.2db with the projector off.

The below measurements were: colour natural, 4K enhancement on, medium lamp mode and auto iris set to high speed. As I've only had the 9300W for 10 day so these are all default out of the box settings as I have not had time to fiddle yet.

Measurements where taken about 1.5 metres below the projector (where I sit).

60Hz - 35.7db
24Hz - 35.6db

With the sound muted I can hear the fans in the projector, but even with relatively low listening levels (-27db on the amp volume dial) this completely drowns out any noise from the projector.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## sparky7

Snoogleheimer said:


> Good Lord. I have a 5040ub on order. I think when it gets here, I'm just gonna pick a factory preset, and be happy with it. Thank God I'm not much of a videophile. My main prerequisite was *BIG*! And then, I want a nice ALR screen, which I will be ordering soon. Oh, and UHD Bluray players? OMG! What a horror show. Can you guys recommend a decent one that will work with this PJ? Just thought it was better to ask 5040 owners. I'm not real picky. I will spend big bucks if needed. You can PM me answers off thread if you'd like. I need to order one and my head is spinning. lol



Might want to see this.


http://app.bronto.com/public/viewmessage/html/26198/2s450jh48hxln48yvxtv3vyayfw4m


mark


----------



## Snoogleheimer

sparky7 said:


> Might want to see this.
> 
> 
> http://app.bronto.com/public/viewmessage/html/26198/2s450jh48hxln48yvxtv3vyayfw4m
> 
> 
> mark


Yes, I got that deal.  Should ship soon.


----------



## JackOften

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Well, bad news for me. With the Linker in my chain I'm absolutely positive the projector is being sent a signal that fits well within its bandwidth limitations (4k60, 4:2:0, 8bit, 300Mhz), and I'm still getting dropouts! I don't know what else could be going on other than something is wrong with my projector. Jesus, I've spend over $500 on fiber optic cables and a Linker.


Spend another $200 on a shield. Only buy it from somewhere you can return it if it doesn't work.


----------



## elmalloc

etrigand said:


> There's a lot of good information in this thread, but the first post hasn't been updated since October, and (as lovely as you're writing is) it's difficult to leaf through it looking for what I need.
> 
> Can someone summarize the best set up for an Xbox One S? It looks like some of you are using HD Fury? Does that force it to give us HDR?


I asked this same question but nobody answered, hehe. It would be great if someone updated the original post with which sources are the best. It seems mostly the consensus is the projector looks great with 1080p content, some people say they also see a different with 4K sources, some day HDR basically doesn't work, others say with the latest update one of the HDR modes looks usable.

AFAIK, the HD Fury strips the HDR from the signal and leaves the BT2020 extended color space that people seem to prefer.

Thread can definitely be confusing for people who are looking to own this device.


----------



## JackOften

Snoogleheimer said:


> Good Lord. I have a 5040ub on order. I think when it gets here, I'm just gonna pick a factory preset, and be happy with it. Thank God I'm not much of a videophile. My main prerequisite was *BIG*! And then, I want a nice ALR screen, which I will be ordering soon. Oh, and UHD Bluray players? OMG! What a horror show. Can you guys recommend a decent one that will work with this PJ? Just thought it was better to ask 5040 owners. I'm not real picky. I will spend big bucks if needed. You can PM me answers off thread if you'd like. I need to order one and my head is spinning. lol


The other poster is right, go with the Philips. It's proven to work well with the 5040. It's just a down home player with no compatibility issues. Been using it for a month, PQ as good as the rest.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

One nice thing, my HDMI cable length will only be about 10'. I want to run the HDMI cable & power cable in parallel inside same conduit. Will I need a fiber-optic HDMI cable to do this?


----------



## k3nnis

Does the Panasonic 4k Blu ray player work well with the Epson?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

JackOften said:


> The other poster is right, go with the Philips. It's proven to work well with the 5040. It's just a down home player with no compatibility issues. Been using it for a month, PQ as good as the rest.


I've seen the Philips player mentioned a few times in this thread (vs. Oppo 203, which seems to have issues, but some say it's fine).

Looks like the model people are referring to is: *Philips BDP7501*

Thanks!
ELmO


----------



## JackOften

elmalloc said:


> I've seen the Philips player mentioned a few times in this thread (vs. Oppo 203, which seems to have issues, but some say it's fine).
> 
> Looks like the model people are referring to is: *Philips BDP7501*
> 
> Thanks!
> ELmO


Yup! Post 5965 found you a good price for one, but they should sell them locally of you need instant satisfaction.


----------



## valpofun15

*Epson 5040ub not displaying 3840x2160 other than menu screens*

I have the Phillips BDP-7501 4k player. Ive set the video resolution to display 4k content but during movie playback it resorts back to 1920x1080. Anybody have any ideas as to why this is taking place? Is there a series of setup options that I need to do in order to get the phillips and the Epson to work properly together in order to play true 4k content from 4k discs? Thanks.


----------



## Oledurt

Today I had the ISF Calibration done on my projector. The calibrator was here for over 6 hours and performed 4 different calibrations. 2 for blu ray one for HDR and one for 3D. I watched John Wick, and wow what a difference. The feedback I got from the calibrator is that this projector has very good color and can be properly calibrated for HDR. brightness is not enough but he set a customized gamma setting to compensate. It is a vast improvement over what I had. 

I paid $310 for all of this. I am beyond satisfied, and I highly recommend anyone who is having trouble do not hesitate to hire a reputable calibrator. It is very worth it in my opinion. 

I know some of you want to know the settings, and I do not blame you....I cannot however share them out of respect for my calibrators work, and they will not work for you anyway. Just know that if you are on the fence drop the coin on the calibration it is really worth it to make it shine.










Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## TheGizzard

Oledurt said:


> Today I had the ISF Calibration done on my projector. The calibrator was here for over 6 hours and performed 4 different calibrations. 2 for blu ray one for HDR and one for 3D. I watched John Wick, and wow what a difference. The feedback I got from the calibrator is that this projector has very good color and can be properly calibrated for HDR. brightness is not enough but he set a customized gamma setting to compensate. It is a vast improvement over what I had.
> 
> I paid $310 for all of this. I am beyond satisfied, and I highly recommend anyone who is having trouble do not hesitate to hire a reputable calibrator. It is very worth it in my opinion.
> 
> I know some of you want to know the settings, and I do not blame you....I cannot however share them out of respect for my calibrators work, and they will not work for you anyway. Just know that if you are on the fence drop the coin on the calibration it is really worth it to make it shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks for this. I will get mine calibrated once it's all set up. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

valpofun15 said:


> I have the Phillips BDP-7501 4k player. Ive set the video resolution to display 4k content but during movie playback it resorts back to 1920x1080. Anybody have any ideas as to why this is taking place? Is there a series of setup options that I need to do in order to get the phillips and the Epson to work properly together in order to play true 4k content from 4k discs? Thanks.


Make sure you:
Have a proper hdmi cord. 
Have it plugged into the proper hdmi slot in the projector. 
Have a compatible AVR if using one. 
Inserted the 4k disc and not the standard blu ray. 

Those are the things that initially come to mind.  


Sent from my Galaxy S7.


----------



## MississippiMan

*5040UB & UBE on sale tomorrow w/$500.00 Instant Rebate*

*Here* is the skinny.......


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

JackOften said:


> Spend another $200 on a shield. Only buy it from somewhere you can return it if it doesn't work.


Ugh, I really want a direct connection. Right now I've relegated myself to 4k60 4:4:4 output from the pc, which is then downscaled to 1080p 4:4:4. It's a decent compromise because I get all the nice anti-aliasing that you can get with 4k going to this projector, plus extra color information that you wouldn't if you were feeding it the only 4k60 signal it can _theoretically_ accept (4:2:0).

An actual 4k60 image does appear slightly sharper than a 4k60 image downscaled to 1080p on this projector, but I'm more or less giving up on feeding this projector actual 4k content. I'm tempted to get a shield, but I fear that combining 4k60 4:2:0 AND the transcoding involved in shield's streaming would give me an overall worse experience in terms of both image quality and latency versus a 4k 4:4:4 downscaled image.


----------



## elmalloc

terminal33 said:


> Make sure you:
> Have a proper hdmi cord.
> Have it plugged into the proper hdmi slot in the projector.
> Have a compatible AVR if using one.
> Inserted the 4k disc and not the standard blu ray.
> 
> Those are the things that initially come to mind.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S7.


What AVR do you recommend?

Thanks!


----------



## terminal33

elmalloc said:


> What AVR do you recommend?
> 
> Thanks!


I was on a budget when I got mine, but I've been happy with the Denon 2300. It's worked flawlessly with the Epson. I set the Denon to "Bypass" and not upscale the picture. In my opinion, this has looked best. 

Sent from my Galaxy S7.


----------



## HarleyRider

k3nnis said:


> Does the Panasonic 4k Blu ray player work well with the Epson?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup. Been using the UB900 for a couple months now with my 5040. No issues. Plenty of things you can tweak but I'm pretty much running it with out of the box settings and it just works. But I'm not trying to do fancy things like forcing SDR while keeping BT2020 color gamut that I see Oppo owners mentioning. I forced mine to 4K output resolution so it upscales everything and just let 'er rip. I'm happy with it, but I've always been a Panasonic disc player fan. Upscaled 1080p Blurays look great, 4K UHD look great since I did that latest Epson firmware update. Only thing I can't get to work is HDR from the Netflix app. Supposedly people over in the Panny UB900 thread are doing it, but I can't get it to work. I get 4K but no HDR. Not a big deal to me. I also like the network connectivity that lets me play my FLAC audio collection using the Panny. Sounds great.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Oledurt said:


> Today I had the ISF Calibration done on my projector. The calibrator was here for over 6 hours and performed 4 different calibrations. 2 for blu ray one for HDR and one for 3D. I watched John Wick, and wow what a difference. The feedback I got from the calibrator is that this projector has very good color and can be properly calibrated for HDR. brightness is not enough but he set a customized gamma setting to compensate. It is a vast improvement over what I had.
> 
> I paid $310 for all of this. I am beyond satisfied, and I highly recommend anyone who is having trouble do not hesitate to hire a reputable calibrator. It is very worth it in my opinion.
> 
> I know some of you want to know the settings, and I do not blame you....I cannot however share them out of respect for my calibrators work, and they will not work for you anyway. Just know that if you are on the fence drop the coin on the calibration it is really worth it to make it shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I watched John Wick the other night in 4k HDR as well. Just used HDR 1 and preset. Blown away by the picture.


----------



## elmalloc

terminal33 said:


> I was on a budget when I got mine, but I've been happy with the Denon 2300. It's worked flawlessly with the Epson. I set the Denon to "Bypass" and not upscale the picture. In my opinion, this has looked best.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S7.


On A BUDGET?!?! That AVR is $800!!!!!


----------



## k3nnis

HarleyRider said:


> Yup. Been using the UB900 for a couple months now with my 5040. No issues. Plenty of things you can tweak but I'm pretty much running it with out of the box settings and it just works. But I'm not trying to do fancy things like forcing SDR while keeping BT2020 color gamut that I see Oppo owners mentioning. I forced mine to 4K output resolution so it upscales everything and just let 'er rip. I'm happy with it, but I've always been a Panasonic disc player fan. Upscaled 1080p Blurays look great, 4K UHD look great since I did that latest Epson firmware update. Only thing I can't get to work is HDR from the Netflix app. Supposedly people over in the Panny UB900 thread are doing it, but I can't get it to work. I get 4K but no HDR. Not a big deal to me. I also like the network connectivity that lets me play my FLAC audio collection using the Panny. Sounds great.




Thanks. Does it play UHD BD's in HDR with the Epson? Ie enable 24P 4K @ 4:2:0 10 bit? Or 12 bit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Ronman79

elmalloc said:


> On A BUDGET?!?! That AVR is $800!!!!!


One's budget is another's lotto! Lol... Hey the 7200 is what, $3000???

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

Ronman79 said:


> One's budget is another's lotto! Lol... Hey the 7200 is what, $3000???
> 
> Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


I've got money, I just haven't spent $800 on an AVR before. I normally go separates. I suppose because this is my gaming setup and not theater setup I wasn't expecting to spend almost 1K for a secondary receiver on a secondary projector that is $2500 itself!


----------



## Seawater

*Trade In On Epson 5040ub*

Would anyone know if any retailers do trade ins on projectors? I have an Epson 5020ub and would like to upgrade to a 5040ub.

Thanks


----------



## terminal33

elmalloc said:


> On A BUDGET?!?! That AVR is $800!!!!!


Haha, I should mention that it was on sale for $399 and no tax! 

Sent from my Galaxy S7.


----------



## elmalloc

terminal33 said:


> Haha, I should mention that it was on sale for $399 and no tax!
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy S7.


I'd take that! :laugh:


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> Today I had the ISF Calibration done on my projector. The calibrator was here for over 6 hours and performed 4 different calibrations. 2 for blu ray one for HDR and one for 3D. I watched John Wick, and wow what a difference. The feedback I got from the calibrator is that this projector has very good color and can be properly calibrated for HDR. brightness is not enough but he set a customized gamma setting to compensate. It is a vast improvement over what I had.
> 
> I paid $310 for all of this. I am beyond satisfied, and I highly recommend anyone who is having trouble do not hesitate to hire a reputable calibrator. It is very worth it in my opinion.
> 
> I know some of you want to know the settings, and I do not blame you....I cannot however share them out of respect for my calibrators work, and they will not work for you anyway. Just know that if you are on the fence drop the coin on the calibration it is really worth it to make it shine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Great to hear. A few questions:

1. Do you know if your calibrator travels to the Midwest? If so, would you mind providing his contact info?
2. Do you know if he had experience with the 5040 prior to yours? 6 hours sounds like a long time for one display. Just wondering if he had an idea of what to do with the 5040 already or was figuring it out on the fly.
3. While I certainly respect your decision not to share settings, could you share any insights you learned that might help the rest of us with things like: using Natural vs a P3 color space for HDR, whether HDR1 is a good mode after being calibrated or does HDR2 still provide better highlights, whether there is a right vs wrong when it comes to using Super White, etc etc


----------



## LumensLover

Seawater said:


> Would anyone know if any retailers do trade ins on projectors? I have an Epson 5020ub and would like to upgrade to a 5040ub.
> 
> Thanks


No


----------



## elmalloc

Did you watch him/her while they calibrated your projector? I'm interested in how much of a different you saw....


----------



## HarleyRider

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. Does it play UHD BD's in HDR with the Epson? Ie enable 24P 4K @ 4:2:0 10 bit? Or 12 bit?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes. 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR.


----------



## k3nnis

HarleyRider said:


> Yes. 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR.




Ok thx 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## webmst

thank you so much for posting your sound measurements 

I think 30-35Db was around what I'd expect from the unit with a ECO/4K enhancement/ auto iris on - style combination or similar. So I'm not expecting 22 -30 Db with a real or calibrated setting - but I suspect my 49-50 Db is way out of wack 

Oh..... and I'm in Oz so it's only a 50Hz world here. 

And... my place is a property in the Snowy Mountains - so the room measured "almost zero" ambient noise compared to the projector only on at 49-50 Db.

It will be fascinating to see what Epson says.

Glad to see an ISF calibration yielded great results -


----------



## thevenom

What's a good ceiling mount for this? Just pulled the trigger with the price drop.


----------



## Oledurt

spirithockey79 said:


> Great to hear. A few questions:
> 
> 1. Do you know if your calibrator travels to the Midwest? If so, would you mind providing his contact info?
> 2. Do you know if he had experience with the 5040 prior to yours? 6 hours sounds like a long time for one display. Just wondering if he had an idea of what to do with the 5040 already or was figuring it out on the fly.
> 3. While I certainly respect your decision not to share settings, could you share any insights you learned that might help the rest of us with things like: using Natural vs a P3 color space for HDR, whether HDR1 is a good mode after being calibrated or does HDR2 still provide better highlights, whether there is a right vs wrong when it comes to using Super White, etc etc




Hey,

I live in NE and I do believe he does travel but I am not sure the details on that. His name is Michael Boeker and his number is 402-517-0271. 

He was very professional, and had a lot of knowledge. He had very expensive equipment over 20k invested in his tools. I am positive he was familiar with my Epson as he knew his way around it without any issues or questions.

He even reset my lens memory settings since they were not perfect. So I can tell you that for HDR he used digital cinema with a custom gamma curve to compensate for the lack of brightness. 

He showed me how accurate he got the HDR Electro Optical Transfer Function. It was nearly perfect. For Blu Ray he used Natural. He calibrated using Auto Bright mode (HDR 1). Super White was left off, and I see no clipped whites or anything like that.

To be honest I think the key to getting HDR right with this projector is the custom gamma settings. I can say that the way he set my gamma is not anything like what I found posted in this thread.

As far as him spending 6 hours working on the calibration I can tell you he was extremely meticulous in his approach. He did not just use his instruments and punch the numbers in and walk out. He brought different discs mastered at both 1000 nits and 4000 nits, and spent quite a bit of time actually confirming his settings using various media.

He also used various approaches to achieve a desired result, and than went with the best one.

He told me that the Epson has very good color and is pretty accurate. There was a color error in green on the BT2020 color space but the DCI colorspace was nearly perfect once calibrated. Rec709 was nearly perfect as well. 

So was it worth it? HELL YES! For the HDR calibration alone. I should have done this as soon as I bought the projector, and I most certainly will pay for the calibration on my next one.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

spirithockey79 said:


> Great to hear. A few questions:
> 
> 1. Do you know if your calibrator travels to the Midwest? If so, would you mind providing his contact info?
> 2. Do you know if he had experience with the 5040 prior to yours? 6 hours sounds like a long time for one display. Just wondering if he had an idea of what to do with the 5040 already or was figuring it out on the fly.
> 3. While I certainly respect your decision not to share settings, could you share any insights you learned that might help the rest of us with things like: using Natural vs a P3 color space for HDR, whether HDR1 is a good mode after being calibrated or does HDR2 still provide better highlights, whether there is a right vs wrong when it comes to using Super White, etc etc


Point 3 in your post would go a long way to helping others with some base settings, good ask!, hopefully he will not mind


----------



## Ronman79

Oledurt said:


> Hey,
> 
> I live in NE and I do believe he does travel but I am not sure the details on that. His name is Michael Boeker and his number is 402-517-0271.
> 
> He was very professional, and had a lot of knowledge. He had very expensive equipment over 20k invested in his tools. I am positive he was familiar with my Epson as he knew his way around it without any issues or questions.
> 
> He even reset my lens memory settings since they were not perfect. So I can tell you that for HDR he used digital cinema with a custom gamma curve to compensate for the lack of brightness.
> 
> He showed me how accurate he got the HDR Electric Optical Transfer Function. It was nearly perfect. For Blu Ray he used Natural. He calibrated using Auto Bright mode (HDR 1). Super White was left off, and I see no clipped whites or anything like that.
> 
> To be honest I think the key to getting HDR right with this projector is the custom gamma settings. I can say that the way he set my gamma is not anything like what I found posted in this thread.
> 
> As far as him spending 6 hours working on the calibration I can tell you he was extremely meticulous in his approach. He did not just use his instruments and punch the numbers in and walk out. He brought different discs mastered at both 1000 nits and 4000 nits, and spent quite a bit of time actually confirming his settings using various media.
> 
> He also used various approaches to achieve a desired result, and than went with the best one.
> 
> He told me that the Epson has very good color and is pretty accurate. There was a color error in green on the BT2020 color space but the DCI colorspace was nearly perfect once calibrated. Rec709 was nearly perfect as well.
> 
> So was it worth it? HELL YES! For the HDR calibration alone. I should have done this as soon as I bought the projector, and I most certainly will pay for the calibration on my next one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


It's actually good that you didn't do it right away. Lamp needs time to settle. Glad to hear you're so pleased! 

Sent from my XR6P10 using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

I have question(s) related to "Panel alignment".
I noticed that, when adjusting the color R, the red + in the intersection adjustments goes blur or sharp as you adjust. When it is blur, the red is almost merging with the green, but when you make the + sharp, it kind of goes to one of the sides of the green. 
So should we just ignore the blur in the + and make sure the red is not visible from the side and align with green, or we should make sure the + is sharp and ignore where the red stays in relation to green.
Similar questions for blue as well, only that it does not affect the red + during that adjustment.


----------



## rjguk

webmst said:


> thank you so much for posting your sound measurements
> 
> I think 30-35Db was around what I'd expect from the unit with a ECO/4K enhancement/ auto iris on - style combination or similar. So I'm not expecting 22 -30 Db with a real or calibrated setting - but I suspect my 49-50 Db is way out of wack
> 
> Oh..... and I'm in Oz so it's only a 50Hz world here.
> 
> And... my place is a property in the Snowy Mountains - so the room measured "almost zero" ambient noise compared to the projector only on at 49-50 Db.
> 
> It will be fascinating to see what Epson says.
> 
> Glad to see an ISF calibration yielded great results -


What's the nature of the noise? I can see that a high fan could be objectionable but 'normal'. A defective iris might cause a lot of clattering or grinding. 4k enhancement might give rise to a whine but that's normally on 60Hz. What does it sound like compared to what you think it should sound like?


----------



## webmst

there is a simply a "lot" of noise is the short answer.
It could be a combination of fan + iris, although that is just a guess.
I recorded a video of the unit with a sound meter next to it showing 50Db in situ attached to the ceiling via an Epson low profile mount. 
Perhaps I should've removed the unit from the ceiling and placed it on a table upright and tried the same test. 
For reference the 8300 replaced my old Sony 1292 CRT which had a custom-made sound box enclosure. 1292's (for those not familiar) were 9" liquid-cooled CRT projectors (about 60kg) and that pumped 65Db or more without the sound box . 
So I was surprised to hear quite so much noise from the 8300/5040 unit.
Graham (From Melbourne) and I produced a CRT Calibration DVD about a decade ago which sold through the Curt Palme website (it's a free download now).

I am so happy to hear an ISF project on someone's new Epson yielded great results.


----------



## rjguk

webmst said:


> there is a simply a "lot" of noise is the short answer.
> It could be a combination of fan + iris, although that is just a guess.
> I recorded a video of the unit with a sound meter next to it showing 50Db in situ attached to the ceiling via an Epson low profile mount.
> Perhaps I should've removed the unit from the ceiling and placed it on a table upright and tried the same test.
> For reference the 8300 replaced my old Sony 1292 CRT which had a custom-made sound box enclosure. 1292's (for those not familiar) were 9" liquid-cooled CRT projectors (about 60kg) and that pumped 65Db or more without the sound box .
> So I was surprised to hear quite so much noise from the 8300/5040 unit.
> Graham (From Melbourne) and I produced a CRT Calibration DVD about a decade ago which sold through the Curt Palme website (it's a free download now).
> 
> I am so happy to hear an ISF project on someone's new Epson yielded great results.


I suppose it could be some sort of resonance between the fan (possibly defective) and the ceiling panel. I'd characterise mine as a gentle whooshing on ECO, going up to be more noticeable in Medium and very noticeable in High. I wonder if your fan control is somehow stuck in High? I recall that it does make more noise in Dynamic mode even in ECO, but I leave it in Natural. 
In the Snowy Mountains are you at an altitude where the fan might be pushed a bit harder? Just a thought - you might be at sea level


----------



## coolpal

This PJ is on sale for $2500 @amazon from different vendors including Amazon. Pretty sure a new one is coming this year.


----------



## elmalloc

JackOften said:


> Yup! Post 5965 found you a good price for one, but they should sell them locally of you need instant satisfaction.


Bought it from MonoPrice.

Also bought an AC router. Struggling finding a receiver that's affordable, just like the router, you have super high reviews, and reviews that say "this is totally broken". It's impossible to find a good router or receiver these days.


----------



## JackOften

elmalloc said:


> Bought it from MonoPrice.
> 
> Also bought an AC router. Struggling finding a receiver that's affordable, just like the router, you have super high reviews, and reviews that say "this is totally broken". It's impossible to find a good router or receiver these days.


Check out the Yamaha xx60 series receivers. They have none of the handshake or video connection issues that Denon/marantz are having. The DSP's (extra sound enhancement) are daunting, but you don't have to use them.


----------



## bluer101

aaranddeeman said:


> I have question(s) related to "Panel alignment".
> I noticed that, when adjusting the color R, the red + in the intersection adjustments goes blur or sharp as you adjust. When it is blur, the red is almost merging with the green, but when you make the + sharp, it kind of goes to one of the sides of the green.
> So should we just ignore the blur in the + and make sure the red is not visible from the side and align with green, or we should make sure the + is sharp and ignore where the red stays in relation to green.
> Similar questions for blue as well, only that it does not affect the red + during that adjustment.


I would like to know this as well. But when I did mine the first time aligned the +. The second time I ignored the + and made the surrounding lines white. 

To me trying to get the + right makes the rest wrong. 

IDK, would like to know.


----------



## elmalloc

JackOften said:


> Check out the Yamaha xx60 series receivers. They have none of the handshake or video connection issues that Denon/marantz are having. The DSP's (extra sound enhancement) are daunting, but you don't have to use them.


I **just** paid for the Denon *S920W* on amazon ($500). It *has 8 HDMI HDCP 2.2 inputs! *

EDIT: I now cancelled it and will check out the Yamahas. The Yamaha 60 series looks like it has *only 3-4 HDCP 2.2s, in roughly the same price range.* To get 7-8 HDCP 2.2, gotta pay $1200 for Yamaha.

Are *Denons *really having handshake problems, any more information on that? I plan to send the HDMI out to Epson's wireless transmitter.

Thanks for the information!

I noticed *flapjackdowntheline *has the same Denon S290W receiver, but has been having some 4k60hz issues. I'll ask him.

I realize this thread is tough to track with the amount of information, but this type of stuff would be great to add to the original post if possible. :laugh:


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> Hey,
> 
> I live in NE and I do believe he does travel but I am not sure the details on that. His name is Michael Boeker and his number is 402-517-0271.
> 
> He was very professional, and had a lot of knowledge. He had very expensive equipment over 20k invested in his tools. I am positive he was familiar with my Epson as he knew his way around it without any issues or questions.
> 
> He even reset my lens memory settings since they were not perfect. So I can tell you that for HDR he used digital cinema with a custom gamma curve to compensate for the lack of brightness.
> 
> He showed me how accurate he got the HDR Electro Optical Transfer Function. It was nearly perfect. For Blu Ray he used Natural. He calibrated using Auto Bright mode (HDR 1). Super White was left off, and I see no clipped whites or anything like that.
> 
> To be honest I think the key to getting HDR right with this projector is the custom gamma settings. I can say that the way he set my gamma is not anything like what I found posted in this thread.
> 
> As far as him spending 6 hours working on the calibration I can tell you he was extremely meticulous in his approach. He did not just use his instruments and punch the numbers in and walk out. He brought different discs mastered at both 1000 nits and 4000 nits, and spent quite a bit of time actually confirming his settings using various media.
> 
> He also used various approaches to achieve a desired result, and than went with the best one.
> 
> He told me that the Epson has very good color and is pretty accurate. There was a color error in green on the BT2020 color space but the DCI colorspace was nearly perfect once calibrated. Rec709 was nearly perfect as well.
> 
> So was it worth it? HELL YES! For the HDR calibration alone. I should have done this as soon as I bought the projector, and I most certainly will pay for the calibration on my next one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Awesome. Thanks so much for taking the time to provide that detailed response. I'm going to call him. I'm in St. Louis area so hopefully that's part of the territory he'll travel to.


----------



## bluer101

I just looked up ISF and the company is located 5 minutes from me. I'm sure that's the business training but I guess when I'm ready to get my 5040ub calibrated I could contact them directly.


----------



## clhug

I saw the posts earlier talking about the 1.09 firmware update with the link to this site to download it, which I've done and appreciate the direct link.
https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

My question is, how the heck do you find this page navigating from the main Epson.com web site? I had looked all over the place and could not find a firmware page to save my life.

Just want to know so I can find it again in the future. (I know I can set a bookmark, but I don't want to have to depend on that.)

Thanks!


----------



## aaranddeeman

clhug said:


> I saw the posts earlier talking about the 1.09 firmware update with the link to this site to download it, which I've done and appreciate the direct link.
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> My question is, how the heck do you find this page navigating from the main Epson.com web site? I had looked all over the place and could not find a firmware page to save my life.
> 
> Just want to know so I can find it again in the future. (I know I can set a bookmark, but I don't want to have to depend on that.)
> 
> Thanks!


A simple google search "epson 6040ub firmware" will bring it up.


----------



## aaranddeeman

bluer101 said:


> I would like to know this as well. But when I did mine the first time aligned the +. The second time I ignored the + and made the surrounding lines white.
> 
> To me trying to get the + right makes the rest wrong.
> 
> IDK, would like to know.


Exactly. That is where I got confused. Should I worry about the + or just ignore it if it gets blur..

This page does not add anything we don't know.


----------



## etrigand

What's Linker for? Does it do the same thing as HD Fury?

p.s. Again, could someone summarize a setup and settings that are better that Xbox One S and 6040UB with factory settings?


----------



## webmst

Interesting point regarding altitude - thanks for the reply 

I'm at exactly 800 metres above sea level - which I don't think should make a difference - but you never know.

And the sound could be a fan -as you say - not working as it should.

Again - so far the unit has only played blu ray's and only in ECO / Cinema / super white off / 4K enhancement on / iris off


----------



## clhug

aaranddeeman said:


> clhug said:
> 
> 
> 
> I saw the posts earlier talking about the 1.09 firmware update with the link to this site to download it, which I've done and appreciate the direct link.
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> My question is, how the heck do you find this page navigating from the main Epson.com web site? I had looked all over the place and could not find a firmware page to save my life.
> 
> Just want to know so I can find it again in the future. (I know I can set a bookmark, but I don't want to have to depend on that.)
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> A simple google search "epson 6040ub firmware" will bring it up.
Click to expand...

I had tried searching, with 5040 not 6040 since that's what I own, and it didn't turn up anything.

Regardless, I'd still like to know how to navigate to it from Epson's main page. I had tried under Support, putting my model in and going to its support page and the only download there was a pointer to the Android and iOS apps. I had tried going to the 5040 product page first, then clicking the Support link from that, which just took me to the same support page I had already seen. Nowhere in any of that do I see anything mentioning firmware. Seems odd it's not easily findable on their web site through the support section.

Thanks again!


----------



## jsil

​I'm thinking about getting this projector but have a few questions. 
1. Which UHD player has the least amount of issues with 
Epson 5040.
2. People complained about it been to dark when using HDR modes. With the new firmware does it help a lot.


----------



## ht guy

clhug said:


> I had tried searching, with 5040 not 6040 since that's what I own, and it didn't turn up anything.
> 
> Regardless, I'd still like to know how to navigate to it from Epson's main page. I had tried under Support, putting my model in and going to its support page and the only download there was a pointer to the Android and iOS apps. I had tried going to the 5040 product page first, then clicking the Support link from that, which just took me to the same support page I had already seen. Nowhere in any of that do I see anything mentioning firmware. Seems odd it's not easily findable on their web site through the support section.
> 
> Thanks again!


I agree, and had the same problem finding an authorized dealer to sell me a 5040/6040.

I found the 5040/6040 page easily enough, but had to ask here to get the link to find an authorized dealer in my area (you'd think these links would be "top of the page" once you get to the product page for the PJ. Go figure.)


----------



## elmalloc

jsil said:


> ​I'm thinking about getting this projector but have a few questions.
> 1. Which UHD player has the least amount of issues with
> Epson 5040.
> 2. People complained about it been to dark when using HDR modes. With the new firmware does it help a lot.


#1) I don't have the projector yet, but I've gotten feedback from a couple people that the Philips *BDP7501 *plays well with the Epson. Monoprice.com has a good price on it that doesn't break the bank, I bought it.

#2) I'm still deciphering this too. I read in this thread one person seems pretty happy with HDR after the latest firmware.


----------



## jsil

Just got back from BB and asked about the Epson 5040 and could get it in a week with 36 month financing. Just about to leave and they ask me if I would be interested in an open box JVC X550R. They gave me a really good deal on it. Told them to let me think about it and will get back to them later.


----------



## Web35

welldun said:


> Visual Apex sells the Samsung SSG-3300CR which have a white frame, and they say that they work well with the 5040ub. while searching for a black framed version I found the SSG-3300GR on amazon for around $20 for two pairs of glasses, which seems like an amazing deal if they work! The only differences I can see between these and the ones at Visual Apex, is the color and the G in the model number instead of a C.
> 
> I ordered 3 sets (6 glasses in total) which should arrive by Thursday. I will report back my finding once I receive them. Hopefully they work like the ones at Visual Apex. If not I will return them.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone confirm that the Samsung SSG-3300GR glasses work with the 5040ub? I've searched and cannot find a confirming statement in this thread.
> 
> Thanks,
> Bob


----------



## welldun

Web35 said:


> Can anyone confirm that the Samsung SSG-3300GR glasses work with the 5040ub? I've searched and cannot find a confirming statement in this thread.
> 
> Thanks,
> Bob


They work great! As I wrote in my original post I bought 6 of them.I've used them all at the same time with guests in the house, everyone loves them.


----------



## Web35

welldun said:


> They work great! As I wrote in my original post I bought 6 of them.I've used them all at the same time with guests in the house, everyone loves them.


Thanks Welldun!


----------



## philipbtz

etrigand said:


> What's Linker for? Does it do the same thing as HD Fury?
> 
> p.s. Again, could someone summarize a setup and settings that are better that Xbox One S and 6040UB with factory settings?


I think it's called HDFury Linker  https://www.hdfury.com/shop/videoprocessors/linker-4k60-444-600mhz/

---

I finally decided this weekend to invest in the TW9300(6040UB) even with the known issues it has. Been following this thread for a long time but with all the JVC talk in here I have forgotten a few things  I also have the Xbox One S and I'm not able to get the projector to show UHD resolution when playing a UHD disc. The disc plays OK but I only get 1080p into the projector. I think the xbox downscales the picture and then the projector does the fauxk upsacaling. The funny thing is when I look at the Xbox info screen it says 2160p but in the projector menu I'm only getting 1080p.This results in some strange motion handling. I take it I need the Linker since I'm not willing to buy yet another player (Philips seems to work). If I try to enable "Allow 4k" in the xbox it wont let me(xbox forum said this need to be enabled for it to properly show UHD discs). I think it's trying to sync with 4k60Hz 4:4:4 or something. 

Anyway I'm totally blown away with this projector coming from a Benq w1070 DLP. This is just lighyears beyong what that projector could do. I'm enjoying my BDs to the fullest right now and I'm not too worried about the whole UHD thing even though it would be nice to get it working at some point.

For anyone that wants to play around I tried these settings and found them to be really good. The only thing I have different is Iris at -20 instead of -2 (batcave with short throw) and I'm still deciding on if I should use the auto iris or not. http://www.soundandvision.com/conte...projector-review-settings#A3yl6tfOVGlDiAkm.97

P.s. So if someone can confirm that I need a Linker for Xbox One S it would be nice to know. I guess it could be my HDMI cable as well since I don't have a Premium certified one but it's a high speed cable so should work with HDR turned off and 8 bit color me thinks.


----------



## gnolivos

I've posted this before a long time ago, but I couldn't find the original post. So here goes again, since this question gets asked a lot:

The difference in DETAIL between a regular bluray disc viewed with eShift ON, compared to the 4K native disc (note: eShift forced ON) is noticeable in these screenshots I took from the movie Lucy:
(First is 1080, followed by 4k).

These are extreme closeups. My opinion is that at a distance, 1080p looks superb, and almost equals a 4k image to the average viewer. Also HDR makes for a more dull picture imho (on this PJ) so overall 1080p is for me preferred. And cheaper.


----------



## TheGizzard

Can you confirm? Are the 4K examples upscaled? Or is that a 4K Blu-ray source?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Charlie Anderson

Anyone experience any vignetting on the image of the 5040UB? Just got mine setup this weekend and noticed this issue. It's not a deal breaker but I notice these things and it's a sort of a "once you see it you can't unsee it" issue. I'm going to use my light meter to take a spot/incident reading to see the difference in exposure, but I can see it just with a grey screen by eye. 


Pics for reference, sorry for the potato quality, shot with my iPhone. 












































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

Charlie Anderson said:


> Anyone experience any vignetting on the image of the 5040UB? Just got mine setup this weekend and noticed this issue. It's not a deal breaker but I notice these things and it's a sort of a "once you see it you can't unsee it" issue. I'm going to use my light meter to take a spot/incident reading to see the difference in exposure, but I can see it just with a grey screen by eye.
> 
> 
> Pics for reference, sorry for the potato quality, shot with my iPhone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I could be wrong but it looks like a hot spot. I recently changed my screen because of it. The 5040ub is much brighter than my old projector (Epson TW-700) and the laminate screen that I was using was creating these brighter spots once the 5040ub was in use. My new screen does not exhibit these hot spots anymore.

Here is a quick write up describing Hot spots:
https://fuxionelectronics.wordpress.com/2011/10/21/projection-tip-friday-projector-screen-hot-spots-explained/


----------



## Mike Garrett

coolpal said:


> This PJ is on sale for $2500 @amazon from different vendors including Amazon. Pretty sure a new one is coming this year.


Yes, it is an Epson sale. All authorized dealers are offering it for $2,499. Delivered. I had a few customers that were thinking about buying last week and I advised them to wait, since the sale was coming.


----------



## Charlie Anderson

welldun said:


> I could be wrong but it looks like a hot spot. I recently changed my screen because of it. The 5040ub is much brighter than my old projector (Epson TW-700) and the laminate screen that I was using was creating these brighter spots once the 5040ub was in use. My new screen does not exhibit these hot spots anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a quick write up describing Hot spots:
> 
> https://fuxionelectronics.wordpress...-friday-projector-screen-hot-spots-explained/




Thanks, that's helpful to read. It seems like that's the case. I have an Elite Screen Aeon ALR screen that I did my research on and thought it would be fine for
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M3D222Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nHdTybM7V34E4

I went with grey but I suppose I should have gone with white instead. Will have to contact Elite Screens to see if I can get them to swap it out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mike Garrett

Charlie Anderson said:


> Thanks, that's helpful to read. It seems like that's the case. I have an Elite Screen Aeon ALR screen that I did my research on and thought it would be fine for
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M3D222Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nHdTybM7V34E4
> 
> I went with grey but I suppose I should have gone with white instead. Will have to contact Elite Screens to see if I can get them to swap it out
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is your throw longer than 1.5 times the viewing width of your screen? If not, then you will be getting a hot spot. Does not mean that you can't have a hot spot with a longer throw, just means that it is at an acceptable level, per the manufacturer. There are always tradeoffs, when you go away from a 1.0 gain lambertian screen. You gain in one area and lose in another.


----------



## elmalloc

welldun said:


> They work great! As I wrote in my original post I bought 6 of them.I've used them all at the same time with guests in the house, everyone loves them.


I've got some Optoma RF glasses that I used with my Optoma HD33 projector. I hope to use them with the Epson 5040. Do you know if Epson basically supports any 3D RF glasses?


----------



## Charlie Anderson

Mike Garrett said:


> Is your throw longer than 1.5 times the viewing width of your screen? If not, then you will be getting a hot spot. Does not mean that you can't have a hot spot with a longer throw, just means that it is at an acceptable level, per the manufacturer. There are always tradeoffs, when you go away from a 1.0 gain lambertian screen. You gain in one area and lose in another.




It's a 135" screen, which is 118" wide roughly, and the projector is right at the 15' mark, which is just barely over the 1.5x. I'm contacting elite screens, hopefully I can just swap it out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mike Garrett

Charlie Anderson said:


> It's a 135" screen, which is 118" wide roughly, and the projector is right at the 15' mark, which is just barely over the 1.5x. I'm contacting elite screens, hopefully I can just swap it out.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am making an assumption on the minimum throw. It could be as high as 1.8 times screen width. Your screen is not defective, so swapping it out for another screen is not going to change anything. The replacement will hot spot the same amount, if you use the same throw. The solution is to use a longer throw or a smaller screen, if you want to stick with that particular screen.


----------



## Charlie Anderson

Mike Garrett said:


> I am making an assumption on the minimum throw. It could be as high as 1.8 times screen width. Your screen is not defective, so swapping it out for another screen is not going to change anything. The replacement will hot spot the same amount, if you use the same throw. The solution is to use a longer throw or a smaller screen, if you want to stick with that particular screen.




Damn had no idea this was a thing. So if I went from a 135" to a 120" and zoomed in it would make a difference? I should zoom in to 120" and see how that looks then before I make any decisions on swapping out the screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

Charlie Anderson said:


> Damn had no idea this was a thing. So if I went from a 135" to a 120" and zoomed in it would make a difference? I should zoom in to 120" and see how that looks then before I make any decisions on swapping out the screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Unfortunately it is a thing. If you could move the PJ further back (away from the screen) it will help disperse the light a bit more. Think of it like this... If you hold a flashlight close to the wall, the light beam from the flashlight will be concentrated as one main bright spot on the wall. If you then begin to increase the distance between the flashlight and the wall, you will notice that the light begins to cover more of the wall and the area that was once a very bright spot on the wall will decrease in brightness as you increase the distance.

Before going through the trouble of replacing the screen, I would suggest that you give both Epson and Elite Screens a call to see if they can help you find a solution.


----------



## dholmes54

Why do we need the linker when the Epson accepts 2.2 HDMI,is because of the avr that your using? Or is it for HDR problem?


----------



## welldun

elmalloc said:


> I've got some Optoma RF glasses that I used with my Optoma HD33 projector. I hope to use them with the Epson 5040. Do you know if Epson basically supports any 3D RF glasses?


If you already have some 3D glasses that you like, then its worth a shot trying them out. From what I've read, the tech is similar between these RF glasses and the differences tend to be style, comfort and or brightness of the image. I've also used Epson original glasses with my brother-in-law's 5030ub and they work nicely, but he also owns several Samsung SSG-5150GB that came with his 3D TV and those work just as well with his 5030ub. 

However, between the 3 styles that I have used, I personally prefer my own. I don't see a huge drop in brightness with mine and they fit rather comfortably.


----------



## elmalloc

welldun said:


> If you already have some 3D glasses that you like, then its worth a shot trying them out. From what I've read, the tech is similar between these RF glasses and the differences tend to be style, comfort and or brightness of the image. I've also used Epson original glasses with my brother-in-law's 5030ub and they work nicely, but he also owns several Samsung SSG-5150GB that came with his 3D TV and those work just as well with his 5030ub.
> 
> However, between the 3 styles that I have used, I personally prefer my own. I don't see a huge drop in brightness with mine and they fit rather comfortably.


Great, thanks! I know the glasses I have worked well with the Optoma, although they did darken the image a bit (active glasses). They combination had no crosstalk though which was amazing. The first Epson to come out (3050/3100?) with 3D, had really bad crosstalk and I had to return the projector.

I'll try them out and report my experience on the slow death of 3D...  4K doesn't support it!!


----------



## welldun

Btw,
for those interested in the Samsung 3D glasses, it looks like they have once again lowered the price on Amazon from $80 for a set of two, down to $30. when I originally bought mine they were $20 for the set, and shortly thereafter the price jumped up to $80. This could be a good opportunity for those interested to get them at a lower price. 

here is the link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PYEBZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## elmalloc

welldun said:


> Btw,
> for those interested in the Samsung 3D glasses, it looks like they have once again lowered the price on Amazon from $80 for a set of two, down to $30. when I originally bought mine they were $20 for the set, and shortly thereafter the price jumped up to $80. This could be a good opportunity for those interested to get them at a lower price.
> 
> here is the link:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PYEBZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


How many 3D glasses can the projector support? Does it have an internal RF emitter? The Optoma had an external emitter that kind of hung down from the projector.

Sounds lik ea good deal, I'd buy more, I can probably fit more than 4 people watching 3D....


----------



## welldun

elmalloc said:


> How many 3D glasses can the projector support? Does it have an internal RF emitter? The Optoma had an external emitter that kind of hung down from the projector.
> 
> Sounds lik ea good deal, I'd buy more, I can probably fit more than 4 people watching 3D....


I've used 6 at the same time and I believe I read in this thread somewhere that someone else had used at least 8 if not more. As for the emitter it's all internal. It's probably the same location where the remote sends the signal.
The one thing I will point out about using these glasses (and I don't know that it's exclusive to these since it might just be a Epson thing) Is that when you pair them you get a notification on the screen acknowledging that they have been paired with the projector but it also says that the battery level is at "0" which is not the case. These glasses have a light that will be red when they are low on a charge and green when they are good to go. They come with a USB cable that you connect to a laptop or another device to charge the battery when it runs low.


----------



## terminal33

elmalloc said:


> Bought it from MonoPrice.
> 
> Also bought an AC router. Struggling finding a receiver that's affordable, just like the router, you have super high reviews, and reviews that say "this is totally broken". It's impossible to find a good router or receiver these days.


I've really like the Denon I have. Works well with the Epson and haven't had any problems. I got mine from Fry's. That model seems to go on sale every month for the price I paid if you use the coupon code. (You have to sign up to get their e-mails to get a coupon code.)


----------



## v8maro

etrigand said:


> There's a lot of good information in this thread, but the first post hasn't been updated since October, and (as lovely as you're writing is) it's difficult to leaf through it looking for what I need.
> 
> Can someone summarize the best set up for an Xbox One S? It looks like some of you are using HD Fury? Does that force it to give us HDR?


I have an xb1s, the only way to get 4k UHD + HDR is with the linker. ATMOS is an update coming from M$ sometime this year?.


----------



## jsrdlr

welldun said:


> Btw,
> for those interested in the Samsung 3D glasses, it looks like they have once again lowered the price on Amazon from $80 for a set of two, down to $30. when I originally bought mine they were $20 for the set, and shortly thereafter the price jumped up to $80. This could be a good opportunity for those interested to get them at a lower price.
> 
> here is the link:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PYEBZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


What's up with the horrible reviews for these? A bunch of user error or are they truly hit or miss?


----------



## HarleyRider

Charlie Anderson said:


> Damn had no idea this was a thing. So if I went from a 135" to a 120" and zoomed in it would make a difference? I should zoom in to 120" and see how that looks then before I make any decisions on swapping out the screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's the combination of the brightness of the Epson with the higher gain ALR screen. I have a little bit of the same thing on a 110" now after switching from a 1.0 gain white screen to an Elite 1.2 gain ALR screen. I'm not sure if zooming in or out will help much. You need to physically move the projector farther away from the screen. If that's not possible, what you could try is moving the projector off to the side keeping the same height and using horizontal lens shift to center the image. That can help make the hotspotting less pronounced. I'm well beyond the 1.5x screen width rule of thumb for throw distance and still had a little hotspotting but couldn't move the pj any farther back. The lens shift trick worked for me. With a 135" ALR screen, your pj should be at least 15' back from the screen. 20' would be better.


----------



## welldun

jsrdlr said:


> What's up with the horrible reviews for these? A bunch of user error or are they truly hit or miss?


Not sure on those... I can only go by my own experience with them, which has been good so far.


----------



## rmilyard

So I am thinking about getting this projector to replace my Epson 2030. We have enjoyed the 2030 but looking to upgrade. Is the 5040ub really a good upgrade? I found for $2499 and seems like go price. I would love true 4k but the $ is out of my range at this time. So does this 4k enhancement work good etc?


----------



## v8maro

elmalloc said:


> I asked this same question but nobody answered, hehe. It would be great if someone updated the original post with which sources are the best. It seems mostly the consensus is the projector looks great with 1080p content, some people say they also see a different with 4K sources, some day HDR basically doesn't work, others say with the latest update one of the HDR modes looks usable.
> 
> AFAIK, the HD Fury strips the HDR from the signal and leaves the BT2020 extended color space that people seem to prefer.
> 
> Thread can definitely be confusing for people who are looking to own this device.


You need a linker to get the xb1s to show HDR, which it can and will do. I'm able to do it, it's nice. The linker has the ability to strip HDR, but it's not needed unless you just want the bt.2020 color and a brighter image. 

Basically, the xb1s will ONLY output 4k60 - since the Epson is limited to 10.2gbps, there is only one compatible mode for 12-bit (hdr) 4k24 4:2:2 - thus, you must tell the linker to convert to that signal. I use EDID #2 , pass-through, and then on 4k60 source (UHD BR HDR), I tell the linker to convert it to 4k24 4:2:2. The stupid HDMI chipset they decided to use in this projector is the issue. They should have used a better one IMO then NONE of these issues would exist.


----------



## v8maro

Oledurt said:


> Hey,
> 
> I live in NE and I do believe he does travel but I am not sure the details on that. His name is Michael Boeker and his number is 402-517-0271.
> 
> He was very professional, and had a lot of knowledge. He had very expensive equipment over 20k invested in his tools. I am positive he was familiar with my Epson as he knew his way around it without any issues or questions.
> 
> He even reset my lens memory settings since they were not perfect. So I can tell you that for HDR he used digital cinema with a custom gamma curve to compensate for the lack of brightness.
> 
> He showed me how accurate he got the HDR Electro Optical Transfer Function. It was nearly perfect. For Blu Ray he used Natural. He calibrated using Auto Bright mode (HDR 1). Super White was left off, and I see no clipped whites or anything like that.
> 
> To be honest I think the key to getting HDR right with this projector is the custom gamma settings. I can say that the way he set my gamma is not anything like what I found posted in this thread.
> 
> As far as him spending 6 hours working on the calibration I can tell you he was extremely meticulous in his approach. He did not just use his instruments and punch the numbers in and walk out. He brought different discs mastered at both 1000 nits and 4000 nits, and spent quite a bit of time actually confirming his settings using various media.
> 
> He also used various approaches to achieve a desired result, and than went with the best one.
> 
> He told me that the Epson has very good color and is pretty accurate. There was a color error in green on the BT2020 color space but the DCI colorspace was nearly perfect once calibrated. Rec709 was nearly perfect as well.
> 
> So was it worth it? HELL YES! For the HDR calibration alone. I should have done this as soon as I bought the projector, and I most certainly will pay for the calibration on my next one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Could you post a before/after picture of the same frame in a HDR movie? I'd like the see the difference.


----------



## Charlie Anderson

HarleyRider said:


> It's the combination of the brightness of the Epson with the higher gain ALR screen. I have a little bit of the same thing on a 110" now after switching from a 1.0 gain white screen to an Elite 1.2 gain ALR screen. I'm not sure if zooming in or out will help much. You need to physically move the projector farther away from the screen. If that's not possible, what you could try is moving the projector off to the side keeping the same height and using horizontal lens shift to center the image. That can help make the hotspotting less pronounced. I'm well beyond the 1.5x screen width rule of thumb for throw distance and still had a little hotspotting but couldn't move the pj any farther back. The lens shift trick worked for me. With a 135" ALR screen, your pj should be at least 15' back from the screen. 20' would be better.




I might give the lens shift a try and see how that works. Unfortunately I can't move the projector at all as I'm stuck wth it being in the spot it is as I've already run the cable & power for it where it is. But I'll try and see if I can mess with some settings to make it better


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

v8maro said:


> Could you post a before/after picture of the same frame in a HDR movie? I'd like the see the difference.


A long time ago I read someone said that "HDR" couldn't really be photographed, I thought I read that in a review! Is that false?


----------



## elmalloc

Charlie Anderson said:


> I might give the lens shift a try and see how that works. Unfortunately I can't move the projector at all as I'm stuck wth it being in the spot it is as I've already run the cable & power for it where it is. But I'll try and see if I can mess with some settings to make it better
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not sure how much it would help, but you could also try lowering/raising the projector on your mount (not sure how adjustable yours is, mine are all NTP pipes. If you're projecting from lower to up, perhaps the ambient light from the ceiling (if it's not dark) might wash out some of the spotlighting. You might get a worse overall picture but the uniformity might come back, worth a shot though if it's bothering you a lot.

Also I wonder if you can lower the overall brightness of it by goign into eco mode (not sure if the 5040 has it) or even an ND Filter on the lens. I might have the same problems as I'm only going to be 10'9" away from a 110" screen - it should be over 50ftl which will probably cause similar issues to yours.


----------



## elmalloc

terminal33 said:


> I've really like the Denon I have. Works well with the Epson and haven't had any problems. I got mine from Fry's. That model seems to go on sale every month for the price I paid if you use the coupon code. (You have to sign up to get their e-mails to get a coupon code.)


Great, I ended up buying the Denon S920W. Me and flapjack will basically have the same setup. Can't resist the 8 HDMI HDCP 2.2 inputs.


----------



## v8maro

elmalloc said:


> A long time ago I read someone said that "HDR" couldn't really be photographed, I thought I read that in a review! Is that false?


If it looks different I would think a camera would notice it, using the same settings/lighting of course.


----------



## jsrdlr

welldun said:


> Not sure on those... I can only go by my own experience with them, which has been good so far.


Good enough for me. Added to my Amazon wishlist for when the PJ gets installed.


----------



## rfb6435

*Can the 5040ub run in 3D eco mode?*

I currently own a 5030ub and was considering upgrading.

Can the 5040ub stay in ECO mode while in 3d? I have a 106" screen and am willing to give up some brightness to reduce fan noise (which really annoys me).

My main problem with the 5030ub is that it is too loud when ceiling mounted and not in ECO mode.

This isn't an issue for normal 2d viewing but in 3d it doesn't allow eco mode and automatically goes into high brightness and therefore high fan mode.

The 3500 that I had allowed eco mode and 3d together and worked well so it is very annoying that the 5030ub won't do it. 

I am really hoping that the 5040ub will work in 3d and eco modes at the same time but I can't seem to find the answer in reviews and didn't see it answered here yet.

Thanks,

Rich


----------



## Geraldius

Been getting frequent picture dropouts with my 5040ube. I saw in this thread one other user experiencing this but with other equipment. My playback devices are Sony BDP-BX58 Blu-ray player and Xbox one connected through Onkyo TX-NR555. Using the Onkyo's HDCP 2.2 input ports and output into the HDMI1 port of the Epson wireless transmitter. The transmitter is positioned about 15' away.


I haven't tried to isolate any of the components to see if any one of them is at fault yet. It happens maybe once or twice during playback of a blu-ray movie, and intermittently but more frequently with the Xbox. I think 4K upscaling may be enabled on the Onkyo. Will try bypassing the Onkyo first. Hate to think that the wireless is unreliable.


----------



## Geraldius

rfb6435 said:


> I currently own a 5030ub and was considering upgrading.
> 
> Can the 5040ub stay in ECO mode while in 3d? I have a 106" screen and am willing to give up some brightness to reduce fan noise (which really annoys me)...
> Rich


I don't recall trying it in eco mode but it does allow 3D in 'medium' mode which operates the fan at low speed. I think I prefer the extra brightness of high power mode though for 3D despite the louder fan. On a 135" screen the medium mode seems too dark for 3D.


----------



## VATerp

Guys, I have had my project for a couple months now and really struggling with getting my picture dialed-in. One particular annoying thing is the "smoke" look of a wave of lines on light colors (almost like you can see a swirl of lines). This seems to occur on 4K conversion I thought but when I turn it off I still see it.

Is there a "newb" guide to calibrate in the colors? Almost like a Disney WOW Blu-Ray? Is there one recommended? I am no expert but know what I like when it comes to sharp colors.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Geraldius said:


> Been getting frequent picture dropouts with my 5040ube. I saw in this thread one other user experiencing this but with other equipment. My playback devices are Sony BDP-BX58 Blu-ray player and Xbox one connected through Onkyo TX-NR555. Using the Onkyo's HDCP 2.2 input ports and output into the HDMI1 port of the Epson wireless transmitter. The transmitter is positioned about 15' away.
> 
> 
> I haven't tried to isolate any of the components to see if any one of them is at fault yet. It happens maybe once or twice during playback of a blu-ray movie, and intermittently but more frequently with the Xbox. I think 4K upscaling may be enabled on the Onkyo. Will try bypassing the Onkyo first. Hate to think that the wireless is unreliable.


I'm probably the other user you're referring to. I've spent a lot of time and quite a bit of money on cables and an HDFury Linker to try to solve the issue and isolate what's causing it. Definitely start testing things, and I'd start with bypassing your AVR altogether (don't enable bypass mode, just physically bypass it) and plug directly into the wireless transmitter. I've done that and still get drops, but so far only when playing 4k content, and most frequently with 4k60 content from my gaming PC. My wireless transmitter is located directly in front of and about 11-12' away from my projector. No obstructions, direct line of sight, and every time I've ever checked or monitored the signal it's reported 100%. I've never seen it go lower unless I'm obstructing it with my body while I fiddle with the things.

In my case, it can only be a few things at this point, 1) My PC, 2) the transmitter, or 3) the projector. I don't know of any issue from my PC, which I keep very tidy on the software side and fully updated. There are no signs to indicate failure in any of my components. GPU is a Titan X (Maxwell). 1080p into and out of the transmitter works without issue. 

I went to some trouble to move **** around to plug directly into the projector. I thought I was plugged into HDMI 1 at the time, and I got drops when feeding the projector 4k content. In fact the drops were a lot more frequent. The projector was effectively not usable when I had my fiber optic line going directly into it, which led me to believe the transmitter isn't at fault. Unfortunately, I now know I was plugged into the HDMI 2 input of the projector, which I've read cannot appropriately handle a 4k signal, which might explain why the issue was worse - it may in fact just have been a different issue of a truly incompatible input in that case. In any event, because I didn't test both inputs, it's still possible the problem is in the transmitter, and I'll have to move everything around again to test a direct line to the projector to test HDMI 1 and find out if the problem can be isolated to the projector or transmitter. It's a huge hassle with my equipment, which is why I bought the UBe in the first place.

I've been corresponding via email with Epson tech support after feeling like I've done my own due diligence, but no resolution yet. They're still gathering information on what I've tried and haven't offered any possible fixes yet (I'm actually on hold with them as I write this as they suggested I call in to talk about it in more detail). I'll let you know.


----------



## elmalloc

VATerp said:


> Guys, I have had my project for a couple months now and really struggling with getting my picture dialed-in. One particular annoying thing is the "smoke" look of a wave of lines on light colors (almost like you can see a swirl of lines). This seems to occur on 4K conversion I thought but when I turn it off I still see it.
> 
> Is there a "newb" guide to calibrate in the colors? Almost like a Disney WOW Blu-Ray? Is there one recommended? I am no expert but know what I like when it comes to sharp colors.


I saw this on my first projector set up as well. Any chance a heat drop/vent is anywhere in the line of sight of your projected image?


----------



## elmalloc

Geraldius said:


> Been getting frequent picture dropouts with my 5040ube. I saw in this thread one other user experiencing this but with other equipment. My playback devices are Sony BDP-BX58 Blu-ray player and Xbox one connected through Onkyo TX-NR555. Using the Onkyo's HDCP 2.2 input ports and output into the HDMI1 port of the Epson wireless transmitter. The transmitter is positioned about 15' away.
> 
> 
> I haven't tried to isolate any of the components to see if any one of them is at fault yet. It happens maybe once or twice during playback of a blu-ray movie, and intermittently but more frequently with the Xbox. I think 4K upscaling may be enabled on the Onkyo. Will try bypassing the Onkyo first. Hate to think that the wireless is unreliable.


Hi,

Do a search on this forum for your Onkyo model. My relatively recent Onkyo model had HDMI board failure (no longer switches any HDMI), and I'm not alone. Bypass Onkyo and see or find another receiver in your house to double check.

There was another besides flapjack that had wireless not working whatsoever (super flaky on theirs). From what I've read the transmitter needs line of sight, and it's probably using WiGig 60GHz frequency which is a very "strong"/very "short" signal.


----------



## v8maro

dholmes54 said:


> Why do we need the linker when the Epson accepts 2.2 HDMI,is because of the avr that your using? Or is it for HDR problem?


The issue is the HDMI chipset on the Epson can only do 10.2Gbps, thus, some options like HDR or Color space would be unsupported or not shown. Some devices, like the xb1s only output at a bandwith that the Epson cannot accept, thus, the Linker fixes that issue.


----------



## v8maro

rfb6435 said:


> I currently own a 5030ub and was considering upgrading.
> 
> Can the 5040ub stay in ECO mode while in 3d? I have a 106" screen and am willing to give up some brightness to reduce fan noise (which really annoys me).
> 
> My main problem with the 5030ub is that it is too loud when ceiling mounted and not in ECO mode.
> 
> This isn't an issue for normal 2d viewing but in 3d it doesn't allow eco mode and automatically goes into high brightness and therefore high fan mode.
> 
> The 3500 that I had allowed eco mode and 3d together and worked well so it is very annoying that the 5030ub won't do it.
> 
> I am really hoping that the 5040ub will work in 3d and eco modes at the same time but I can't seem to find the answer in reviews and didn't see it answered here yet.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rich


The 5040ub has 3 modes - Eco, Normal, High - High is the only mode when the fan kicks up, however, I have not tried anything in 3d. I'd be surprised if the fan kicks in on Normal for 3d - the difference between Normal and high is barely noticeable btw.


----------



## leo9000

leo9000 said:


> Has anyone tried to play the new 4K UHD blu-ray of Billy Lynn's Long Halftime Walk in 60fps? I put it in to see how it looked on my Philips BDP7501 player and the Epson does not seem to be outputting HDR. I had just updated the firmware to 109.


Anyone tried watching the 60 fps 4K UHD blu-ray of this movie? Trying to figure out if its the player or the projector.


----------



## HarleyRider

elmalloc said:


> I saw this on my first projector set up as well. Any chance a heat drop/vent is anywhere in the line of sight of your projected image?


I get this any time my wife turns on the little fake fireplace space heater that sits perpendicular to the screen. It's like the wavy mirage you see coming off hot pavement in the summer time. If it was all the time, I'd be annoyed, but once in a while isn't worth an argument with the wife. Gotta pick your battles... :laugh:


----------



## Natrix1973

leo9000 said:


> Anyone tried watching the 60 fps 4K UHD blu-ray of this movie? Trying to figure out if its the player or the projector.


Look at the HDMI signal bandwidth chart in the first post of this thread. You need full 18.2 Gb bandwidth for 4k60 with HDR, projector is limited to 10.2 Gb bandwidth so it is not going to be able do both at the same time.

Here is the chart and info quoted into the first post of this thread.













> Originally Posted by Viche
> 
> So here's my latest crack at trying to sum up compatibility between the Epsons and various devices. This isn't perfect. Please post corrections with supporting pictures or documentation. If we can get this close to correct, maybe it can be stickied somewhere.
> 
> Source for some of this info: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/
> 
> Baseline info:
> • The HDMI chipset within the Epson has a bandwidth limitation of 10 Gbps
> • There are limitations to the signal that the Epson can accept due to this chipset
> • 4k Blu-rays are encoded as 4k24 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit Rec709 (non HDR) or 10-bit Rec2020 (HDR10) neither of which are supported by the HDMI 2.0 specification
> • Some form of signal conversion must occur in order for any device using HDMI 2.0 to accept a 4K Blu-ray signal
> • The signal transmitted by the device must fall within the Epson’s 10Gbs HDMI chipset limitation for it to be displayed on the projector
> 
> 
> Samsung K8500 4K Blu-ray Player & Xbox One S
> • Both convert Blu-rays to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec709 which Epson can support
> • HDR movies with Rec2020 color are reduced to Rec709, so HDR is stripped
> • The resulting image for HDR movies generally appears too dark on the Epson
> Phillips, Panasonic, Oppo (hopefully)
> • Each convert the signal to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec 709 which the Epson supports
> • HDR movies with Rec 2020 color are converted to 4k24 / 4:2:2 / 12-bit Rec2020 which the Epson supports
> • The resulting image generally appears appropriate other than the Epson not having enough lumens to display HDR as intended
> Fury & Oppo (hopefully)
> • Both send an Epson compatible signal, but have the ability to strip HDR, while leaving the expanded Rec2020 color intact for those who feel the Epson is too dark for HDR
> Roku Ultra (4K)
> • Sends 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec709 which is supported by Epson
> • HDR movies with Rec2020 color are reduced to Rec709, so HDR is stripped (despite the screen showing 8-bit HDR BT2020, HDR BT2020 requires at least 10-bit color – is Rec2020 color really being preserved here? )
> Amazon Fire Stick
> • HDR signal is downgraded to 4k / Rec709
> YouTube
> • YouTube 4k videos are natively up to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit
> • If your player can send that native signal, the Epson can handle it
> • Players that send the signal properly include: ????
> Netflix
> • Netflix’s 4k videos are natively ?????
> • If your player can send that native signal, the Epson can handle it
> • Players that send the signal properly include: ????
> Gaming (PCs, 4k games on PS4 Pro & Xbox Scorpio)
> • The Epson’s HDMI chipset (10 GBPS limitation) will only accept 4k60 at 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
> • It is unknown whether these gaming devices will send 4k signals in this format. If for example they send the signal as 4k60 / 4:4:4 / 10-bit, the signal will fail or be downgraded to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
> • Either way, 4:4:4 will get downgraded to 4:2:0 and/or color will be downgraded to 8-bit (non-HDR) assuming the source was HDR to begin with
> Future video devices:
> • High Frame Rate (HFR) 4k Blu-ray will display with nothing higher than 8-bit color on the Epson
> • If a future format support 4:4:4, color can be no higher than 8-bit for it to work on the Epson
> • Dolby Vision’s goal is to be 12-bit color. This should work with the Epson, assuming the player can send the signal as 4:2:2


----------



## Geraldius

The user manual is ambiguous/contradictory on the supported signals for the wireless. First it shows several refresh rates for 4Kx2K in the table, including: 
24/30/50/60 Hz for 3840 x 2160
50/60 Hz for 4096 x 2160, 
and 24Hz for 4096 x 2160 (SMPTE).


However there are notes 1 and 2 below that contradict this.
Note 2:
"When projecting in WirelessHD, the following signals are not supported:
* 4K x 2K: 50/60 Hz
* 4K x 2k (SMPTE): 24 Hz."


???


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Just had a rather lengthy and pleasant conversation with a knowledgeable Epson tech. Based on our conversation, they seem to treat 4k60, 4:2:0 as a technically supported but not guaranteed input signal, which is disappointing, but understandable. I'm gonna pick up a Shield and another possibly another well tested 4k source and start testing 4k30/24 content to determine whether I should have the transmitter replaced.

Assuming everything else is working well, then I'm content to accept 4k60 just isn't really a thing I or anyone else should count on with this projector. In fact, having used the Linker for a few days now playing quite a bit of my gaming pc, I'm becoming more and more convinced that in terms of image quality, 4k60 is kind of a dead end. The fact is, if you want 4k60 you have to throw away quite a bit of color information (4:2:0 versus 4:4:4).

I've been using the Linker so that I can get the PC to send out a 4k60 4:4:4 signal which the Linker downscales to 1080p60 with all the color information retained (4:4:4). I then have 4k enhancement on, obviously filling in those intra-pixel spaces with color and producing a very nice image. Yeah, it's not native 4k to the screen, but of course it never was. I do perceive a slight loss in sharpness compared to sending a 4k60 signal to the projector. Though, in this way I'm retaining quite a bit more color information. And the perceived loss in sharpness is very nearly overcome by using a preset (I'm using preset 3). 

I'm getting a very solid image with no aliasing or shimmering because, effectively, this scheme is producing an image similar to 4x supersampling AA. After all the playing around I've done, I think this is the ideal image. It balances resolution and image quality at 60hz from a 4k source. Frankly, even if I had 4k60 working without issue at this point, I think I'd prefer this method (4k60 4:4:4 > Linker 1080p60 4:4:4 > Projector, 4k enhancement on, preset 3). Additionally, with PC games beginning to support HDR, this is gonna be the only way to get HDR to the screen from a 4k source. Yeah, obviously, I could just directly render in 1080p, but if I can run in 4k and get a nice antialiased, no-shimmering, image to the screen, I'd rather go for that then just shart out a straight 1080p image. As a bonus, actual driver based supersampling doesn't always work and many games don't offer in-game supersampling/resolution scaling. This is a no hassle solution that's simply a matter of selecting 4k as the resolution in the game (lol, at least "no hassle" once it's set up and except for how much goddamn money it costs).

Hopefully this serves as a kind of PSA/buyer beware for anyone else looking to this projector for 4k gaming. Which isn't to say I'd not recommend it. Other than this very specific nit-pick, this projector has been wonderful! And like I said, for $3,000, right now nobody is gonna get 4k60 4:4:4 anyway.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Geraldius said:


> The user manual is ambiguous/contradictory on the supported signals for the wireless. First it shows several refresh rates for 4Kx2K in the table, including:
> 24/30/50/60 Hz for 3840 x 2160
> 50/60 Hz for 4096 x 2160,
> and 24Hz for 4096 x 2160 (SMPTE).
> 
> 
> However there are notes 1 and 2 below that contradict this.
> Note 2:
> "When projecting in WirelessHD, the following signals are not supported:
> * 4K x 2K: 50/60 Hz
> * 4K x 2k (SMPTE): 24 Hz."
> 
> 
> ???


Here's what I was sent by Epson tech support during my back and forth on my 4k60 issues. See above for a brief description of my tech support conversation. Yeah, 4k60 is supported, but only kind of, and tech supports position seems to be something like, "it might work ok, it might not, but even if it does, it's not really an ideal signal anyway from an image quality perspective". I think that position is right, in so far as it's probably not an ideal signal in terms of image quality. You might argue that because it not a mode they seem to really stand by that's a reason to just say, "it doesn't work", and you won't get much push back from me, but we all know we're not really getting 4k from this projector anyway, so it's hard to get too upset about it.


----------



## PeterJ101

Does anyone play games on PS4 Pro in 1080P with HDR? Does this work? Trying to decide if it's worth the extra 1000+ for the JVC 420 for HDR gaming. Thanks!


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

PeterJ101 said:


> Does anyone play games on PS4 Pro in 1080P with HDR? Does this work? Trying to decide if it's worth the extra 1000+ for the JVC 420 for HDR gaming. Thanks!


I played TLOU on my non-Pro PS4, 1080p, HDR. Seemed to work fine.


----------



## clhug

welldun said:


> Btw,
> for those interested in the Samsung 3D glasses, it looks like they have once again lowered the price on Amazon from $80 for a set of two, down to $30. when I originally bought mine they were $20 for the set, and shortly thereafter the price jumped up to $80. This could be a good opportunity for those interested to get them at a lower price.
> 
> here is the link:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PYEBZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Right now they're showing at $29.52 for the pair, so about $30. Also, can you confirm which seller you purchased from? I tend to be skeptical of 3rd party sellers selling super cheap (knock offs, used sold as new, non-functional, whatever), but if you can confirm which seller you purchased from I'd be comfortable with that since you said you got good ones. Thanks!


----------



## covsound1

i was testing all enhancement modes for ringing distortion and found even order 2 and 4 have none? i was using 3 as my go too and 2 when i wanted a more film like look. 2 looks like 4 but with more of a harder contrast pop. 4 is now my go too for everything. 1.3 and 5 all have ringing distortion.


----------



## sddp

v8maro said:


> I have an xb1s, the only way to get 4k UHD + HDR is with the linker. ATMOS is an update coming from M$ sometime this year?.




Wait. I thought the XB1S already had atmos?
So as of today Feb 27, 2017 it doesn't?


----------



## v8maro

sddp said:


> v8maro said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have an xb1s, the only way to get 4k UHD + HDR is with the linker. ATMOS is an update coming from M$ sometime this year?.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait. I thought the XB1S already had atmos?
> So as of today Feb 27, 2017 it doesn't?
Click to expand...

I've looked for a release date weekly since they announced it and have yet to see it out there (except insider which is a joke)


----------



## hatlesschimp

v8maro said:


> I've looked for a release date weekly since they announced it and have yet to see it out there (except insider which is a joke)


Im still waiting for the PS4Pro 4.50 update too!

Cant wait to try some console games in Atmos. I think that will definitely happen with Project Scorpio but unsure if we will see anymore than Atmos for movies only on the XB1S.

On another note been playing COD remastered on my PS4Pro with my Yamaha AVR upscalling the Dolby Bitstream with Neural X soinds pretty authentic and with BF1 on PS4Pro it sounds not to far from what is produced with the PC version with Dolby Atmos tm.


----------



## rmilyard

I have a question for you guys using the 5040ub. Mine will be here Thursday. Right now I have an Epson 2030. We have enjoyed it. I have a FreeNAS server setup for all my media. I try to store blu ray .iso files there when I buy them. I playback my 3d and normal blu rays iso file back on an Intel NUC 5th Gen i5. I am running Kodi 17. It will playback pretty much all my media. I do have it setup with scripts when playback .iso files it uses PowerDVD 16. We have liked this setup.

So now with this new 5040ub should I be looking at replacing the 5th Gen NUC? I was thinking with a newer Kaby Lake version. Looks like Intel only has the i3 versions out now. Would the ASRock or MSI ones be a good option? Or maybe a ZBOX EN1060? I am looking at being able to use this new 5040ub to it's max.

Any suggests would be great!


----------



## swyda038

What place online is the best place to purchase the epson 5040ube based on pricing, return policy, customer service, etc.?

Thanks!


----------



## dholmes54

v8maro said:


> The issue is the HDMI chipset on the Epson can only do 10.2Gbps, thus, some options like HDR or Color space would be unsupported or not shown. Some devices, like the xb1s only output at a bandwith that the Epson cannot accept, thus, the Linker fixes that issue.


Thxs,I've had no trouble with my Epson but maybe its because I only use 24 fps instead of 60,that HD fury is expensive.


----------



## elmalloc

Can't believe I'm asking this but, does anyone use 5040UBE in a non light controlled room? How well does it function for you?

I'm thinking of turning my great room into my movie theater, which is blasphemy since it doesn't have great light control with windows, but I noticed I only watch movies at night anyway. Plus when my parents visit I don't think they like walking downstairs anymore, seems like my family room is the ideal spot, has a huge throw too.

I wouldn't critically watch anything during the day, but I bet I can get the contrast under control at night.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs,I've had no trouble with my Epson but maybe its because I only use 24 fps instead of 60,that HD fury is expensive.


I'm beginning to the think that a Linker is kind of an important companion device to this projector if you plan on playing games using the newest consoles, otherwise you're probably gonna have a bad time with 4k60 HDR.


----------



## bigabit

rmilyard said:


> So I am thinking about getting this projector to replace my Epson 2030. We have enjoyed the 2030 but looking to upgrade. Is the 5040ub really a good upgrade? I found for $2499 and seems like go price. I would love true 4k but the $ is out of my range at this time. So does this 4k enhancement work good etc?


$2499 is a great deal and will likely be a very nice upgrade for you. The 4k enhancement works very well scaling up 1080p as well as scaling down a 4k signal. Things do get a little hairy with the UHD discs and HDR. I bought because it would allow me to play that media, but now that I have it the upgrade would have been worth it even if it only accepted 1080p.

How much you will get out of 4k enhancement has a lot to do with screen size and seating distance.


----------



## v8maro

swyda038 said:


> What place online is the best place to purchase the epson 5040ube based on pricing, return policy, customer service, etc.?
> 
> Thanks!


Amazon



dholmes54 said:


> Thxs,I've had no trouble with my Epson but maybe its because I only use 24 fps instead of 60,that HD fury is expensive.


Probably, more devices support that. The real main issue is trying to get HDR to work.



flapjackdowntheline said:


> I'm beginning to the think that a Linker is kind of an important companion device to this projector if you plan on playing games using the newest consoles, otherwise you're probably gonna have a bad time with 4k60 HDR.


Yep!


----------



## welldun

clhug said:


> Right now they're showing at $29.52 for the pair, so about $30. Also, can you confirm which seller you purchased from? I tend to be skeptical of 3rd party sellers selling super cheap (knock offs, used sold as new, non-functional, whatever), but if you can confirm which seller you purchased from I'd be comfortable with that since you said you got good ones. Thanks!


I believe it was Amazon originally but when I go into my purchase history and I click on the "buy it again" button it brings me to the link that I shared with you guys.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs guys,I'm not a gamer but I've just been using SDR instead of HDR I can't tell the difference,of cource I'm 1/2 blind at my age!


----------



## rmilyard

bigabit said:


> $2499 is a great deal and will likely be a very nice upgrade for you. The 4k enhancement works very well scaling up 1080p as well as scaling down a 4k signal. Things do get a little hairy with the UHD discs and HDR. I bought because it would allow me to play that media, but now that I have it the upgrade would have been worth it even if it only accepted 1080p.
> 
> How much you will get out of 4k enhancement has a lot to do with screen size and seating distance.


Right now the screen is 100" 16:9. Seating is about 15 feet from screen I believe. I have a Denon AVR-X6200 setup ATMOS 7.2.4.


----------



## Charlie Anderson

hatlesschimp said:


> Im still waiting for the PS4Pro 4.50 update too!
> 
> Cant wait to try some console games in Atmos. I think that will definitely happen with Project Scorpio but unsure if we will see anymore than Atmos for movies only on the XB1S.
> 
> On another note been playing COD remastered on my PS4Pro with my Yamaha AVR upscalling the Dolby Bitstream with Neural X soinds pretty authentic and with BF1 on PS4Pro it sounds not to far from what is produced with the PC version with Dolby Atmos tm.
> 
> https://youtu.be/rZagwWGrr3U




You'd want to use Linear PCM for that true uncompressed surround sound, bitstream DTS will emulate the surround sound. My atmos setup benefits nicely from the PCM


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

rmilyard said:


> I have a question for you guys using the 5040ub. Mine will be here Thursday. Right now I have an Epson 2030. We have enjoyed it. I have a FreeNAS server setup for all my media. I try to store blu ray .iso files there when I buy them. I playback my 3d and normal blu rays iso file back on an Intel NUC 5th Gen i5. I am running Kodi 17. It will playback pretty much all my media. I do have it setup with scripts when playback .iso files it uses PowerDVD 16. We have liked this setup.
> 
> So now with this new 5040ub should I be looking at replacing the 5th Gen NUC? I was thinking with a newer Kaby Lake version. Looks like Intel only has the i3 versions out now. Would the ASRock or MSI ones be a good option? Or maybe a ZBOX EN1060? I am looking at being able to use this new 5040ub to it's max.
> 
> Any suggests would be great!


AMD just launched the ryzen processor line, wait for reviews on it. Intel will have to slash prices to keep up, there is a new (temporary) king.


----------



## clhug

welldun said:


> clhug said:
> 
> 
> 
> Right now they're showing at $29.52 for the pair, so about $30. Also, can you confirm which seller you purchased from? I tend to be skeptical of 3rd party sellers selling super cheap (knock offs, used sold as new, non-functional, whatever), but if you can confirm which seller you purchased from I'd be comfortable with that since you said you got good ones. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it was Amazon originally but when I go into my purchase history and I click on the "buy it again" button it brings me to the link that I shared with you guys.
Click to expand...

Well, the link doesn't necessarily go to a specific seller. On items like this, Amazon changes the preferred seller at will and sometimes often.

If you look at your order of the item in the Your Orders list, you should see "Sold by", as shown in my attached screen shot of an item I recently purchased from Amazon. Does your order of your glasses actually say "Sold by" Amazon.com? Or if not, then who? When I look at the link for those glasses, and then the list of sellers, Amazon themselves is not listed anywhere as a seller of this item. (There are several "fulfilled by Amazon" but not "sold by" Amazon.)

The only $20 price I see is from a seller (CS2Enterprises) offering a used set, but also charges $4.89 shipping.

Thanks again!


----------



## hatlesschimp

Charlie Anderson said:


> You'd want to use Linear PCM for that true uncompressed surround sound, bitstream DTS will emulate the surround sound. My atmos setup benefits nicely from the PCM
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Im not running dts. I selected Dolby out of the ps4. It works well. Tested it just before with the last of us and could hear some dogs localize to the top front atmos speakers as I moved the view. 

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## Charlie Anderson

hatlesschimp said:


> Im not running dts. I selected Dolby out of the ps4. It works well. Tested it just before with the last of us and could hear some dogs localize to the top front atmos speakers as I moved the view.
> 
> Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk




Ah word, well Bitstream is compressed, Linear PCM is uncompressed. Do what sounds good to you 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

clhug said:


> Well, the link doesn't necessarily go to a specific seller. On items like this, Amazon changes the preferred seller at will and sometimes often.
> 
> If you look at your order of the item in the Your Orders list, you should see "Sold by", as shown in my attached screen shot of an item I recently purchased from Amazon. Does your order of your glasses actually say "Sold by" Amazon.com? Or if not, then who? When I look at the link for those glasses, and then the list of sellers, Amazon themselves is not listed anywhere as a seller of this item. (There are several "fulfilled by Amazon" but not "sold by" Amazon.)
> 
> The only $20 price I see is from a seller (CS2Enterprises) offering a used set, but also charges $4.89 shipping.
> 
> Thanks again!


 This is what my invoice says:

Shipped on December 12, 2016

Items Ordered	Price
3 of: (2x Pair) Samsung Rechargeable 3D Active Glasses, Black
Sold by: Amazon.com LLC 

Condition: New
$19.00


----------



## sherlocktk

elmalloc said:


> Can't believe I'm asking this but, does anyone use 5040UBE in a non light controlled room? How well does it function for you?
> 
> I'm thinking of turning my great room into my movie theater, which is blasphemy since it doesn't have great light control with windows, but I noticed I only watch movies at night anyway. Plus when my parents visit I don't think they like walking downstairs anymore, seems like my family room is the ideal spot, has a huge throw too.
> 
> I wouldn't critically watch anything during the day, but I bet I can get the contrast under control at night.


I have mine installed in my living room, Has high windows and lots of ambient light from family room. With drapes closed during day but still "light" in the room its fine, but sometimes the blacks and dark details get washed out. At Night when its dark, I can have a light on in the room and it still looks great, especially on animated movies. I frequently have a 25 watt light on in the room for "movie night" so my small kids dont trip all over the place when the eventually get bored and play with legos. This does not impact the movie ability. Being able to change from "cinena" mode (aka dark room) to Bright cinema is perfect when there is high ambient light. 

I used to have a ~1000 lumen mitsubishi projector This was bad during daytime at all. This projector is significantly better in ambient light situations I am not annoyed to watch movies/tv on it during the day anymore. 

Projector is ~19 ft from screen and screen size is about ~170 inches. Screen is just drywall painted a shade of flat brown that does not mess with colors much


----------



## elmalloc

sherlocktk said:


> I have mine installed in my living room, Has high windows and lots of ambient light from family room. With drapes closed during day but still "light" in the room its fine, but sometimes the blacks and dark details get washed out. At Night when its dark, I can have a light on in the room and it still looks great, especially on animated movies. I frequently have a 25 watt light on in the room for "movie night" so my small kids dont trip all over the place when the eventually get bored and play with legos. This does not impact the movie ability. Being able to change from "cinena" mode (aka dark room) to Bright cinema is perfect when there is high ambient light.
> 
> I used to have a ~1000 lumen mitsubishi projector This was bad during daytime at all. This projector is significantly better in ambient light situations I am not annoyed to watch movies/tv on it during the day anymore.
> 
> Projector is ~19 ft from screen and screen size is about ~170 inches. Screen is just drywall painted a shade of flat brown that does not mess with colors much


Great, thanks! I will need custom drapes if I care about daytime viewing (ceiling is 20ft high). My projector will be 16-17ft back from a 10ft wide 16x9 cinescoped to 2.4 (14ft wide). So I should have less width I'm throwing than you are. Mine will end up being about 178" 2.4. Good to hear that the projector is working well for you at night time.

I suggest changing from flat brown paint though! I'm still considering StudioTek ST130 but it's hard to ignore the Silver Ticket prices. You can find DIY paint mixtures on this forum's DIY screen section. Try it out!


----------



## HarleyRider

swyda038 said:


> What place online is the best place to purchase the epson 5040ube based on pricing, return policy, customer service, etc.?
> 
> Thanks!


I cannot say enough good things about Crutchfield.com. Items are almost always in stock, fast and free shipping on orders over $35, 60 day return policy. And great customer service. I bought my 5040ub in January and when their price dropped this month, I contacted them, said I was still within the 60 day return window and asked if they'd refund me the $500 difference. They did! Credited my Visa the same day. Can't beat that!


----------



## elmalloc

HarleyRider said:


> I cannot say enough good things about Crutchfield.com. Items are almost always in stock, fast and free shipping on orders over $35, 60 day return policy. And great customer service. I bought my 5040ub in January and when their price dropped this month, I contacted them, said I was still within the 60 day return window and asked if they'd refund me the $500 difference. They did! Credited my Visa the same day. Can't beat that!


AVS also sells projectors. I used ProjectorPeople for this purchase, they are friendly to me and have given me good deals in the past for Screen Innovations products. Also, Amazon doesn't let me use PayPal to pay...hehe.


----------



## swyda038

Getting ready to purchase the epson 5040 and can't decide between the 5040ub or 5040ube. 

I have a 30' in the wall HDMI 2.2 cable that runs from my AVR is (which is behind a bar) to the where the projector would go which is located in a soffit and will be surrounded on all sides except for the front of the projector(see image). I was thinking of the wireless to give me an additional option in case the hdmi cable doesn't work well. 

I have two concerns: One is if the wireless will even work if the wireless transmitter is in line of sight of just the front of the projector or does the entire projector need to be exposed / out in the open for it to work. I could move the projector to be in front of the soffit if needed to expose it, but would really like it to stay more hidden in the soffit. My other concern is future proofing with the HDCP compatibility issue and not wanting to have to fish a new HDMI cable through the wall again if they change to a different HDCP in the future, that my cable is not compatible with. This may not even be an issue as I really don't know too much about it, but wanted to get your thoughts.

Is there any other reasons to go with a wireless over the regular projector or vice versa (ie. better image quality, etc.)

Thanks


----------



## Craig Peer

swyda038 said:


> Getting ready to purchase the epson 5040 and can't decide between the 5040ub or 5040ube.
> 
> I have a 30' in the wall HDMI 2.2 cable that runs from my AVR is (which is behind a bar) to the where the projector would go which is located in a soffit and will be surrounded on all sides except for the front of the projector(see image). I was thinking of the wireless to give me an additional option in case the hdmi cable doesn't work well.
> 
> I have two concerns: One is if the wireless will even work if the wireless transmitter is in line of sight of just the front of the projector or does the entire projector need to be exposed / out in the open for it to work. I could move the projector to be in front of the soffit if needed to expose it, but would really like it to stay more hidden in the soffit. My other concern is future proofing with the HDCP compatibility issue and not wanting to have to fish a new HDMI cable through the wall again if they change to a different HDCP in the future, that my cable is not compatible with. This may not even be an issue as I really don't know too much about it, but wanted to get your thoughts.
> 
> Is there any other reasons to go with a wireless over the regular projector or vice versa (ie. better image quality, etc.)
> 
> Thanks


I have yet to hear any complaints myself with the wireless 5040UBe, but the soffit could be a question. What's it made out of - wood / drywall ? One good thing is the 5040's are on sale for about another 1 1/2 weeks, which helps buy the more expensive wireless model.


----------



## swyda038

Craig Peer said:


> I have yet to hear any complaints myself with the wireless 5040UBe, but the soffit could be a question. What's it made out of - wood / drywall ? One good thing is the 5040's are on sale for about another 1 1/2 weeks, which helps buy the more expensive wireless model.


It is made out of a wood frame and drywall.


----------



## sddp

swyda038 said:


> What place online is the best place to purchase the epson 5040ube based on pricing, return policy, customer service, etc.?
> 
> Thanks!





A magnolia inside a Best Buy hand down.


You'll have to go to a few to find one that will price match with no tax, since online you don't pay tax, BB will match and tax, but if you befriend one at a Magnolia to match %100, you would be better off (basically he'll match a little less to compensate for tax)


Reason for BB is for one you get a LOT of points back which = $ for future purchases and 2nd you become an elite status for a year. Meaning you have 45 to return anything and free 2 day shipping. And if you get their extended warranty and something goes wrong, there is no shipping, just drop it off


----------



## Craig Peer

swyda038 said:


> It is made out of a wood frame and drywall.


I'll guess it will work fine then ( with metal studs - who knows ).


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

swyda038 said:


> Getting ready to purchase the epson 5040 and can't decide between the 5040ub or 5040ube.
> 
> I have a 30' in the wall HDMI 2.2 cable that runs from my AVR is (which is behind a bar) to the where the projector would go which is located in a soffit and will be surrounded on all sides except for the front of the projector(see image). I was thinking of the wireless to give me an additional option in case the hdmi cable doesn't work well.
> 
> I have two concerns: One is if the wireless will even work if the wireless transmitter is in line of sight of just the front of the projector or does the entire projector need to be exposed / out in the open for it to work. I could move the projector to be in front of the soffit if needed to expose it, but would really like it to stay more hidden in the soffit. My other concern is future proofing with the HDCP compatibility issue and not wanting to have to fish a new HDMI cable through the wall again if they change to a different HDCP in the future, that my cable is not compatible with. This may not even be an issue as I really don't know too much about it, but wanted to get your thoughts.
> 
> Is there any other reasons to go with a wireless over the regular projector or vice versa (ie. better image quality, etc.)
> 
> Thanks


I'm pretty certain it's just the front of the projector that must be line of sight to the wireless transmitter. The UBe's wireless transmitter/receiver can accept slightly more signals than the UB or the UBe over physical HDMI line. So, you're not just paying more for the versatility of no wires, you're actually getting slightly more in terms of the range of signals the projector can accept. Others have written about that, and it was confirmed to me by an Epson tech through a lengthy conversation I had with one of them yesterday. The attached chart from Epson tech support shows this.

Edit: To be absolutely clear, the UBe merely _accepts_ a signal that the UB won't. It won't actually _display_ all the information from that incoming signal. Note in the chart that the signal that the UBe can _accept_ that the UB cannot (up to 4k24 4:4:4 12bit) is "processed at 4:2:2 10bit". The bandwidth of the wireless transmitter and receiver is slightly greater than the bandwidth you can get to the projector over physical HDMI. Apparently that's why the UBe can receive a slightly higher bandwidth signal. But, unfortunately, the components shared between both versions that actually process images for display have the same limitations, and thus you won't actually get to see any difference on the screen.

You might wonder, "what's the point?", then. And the benefit is that slightly more devices work without issue connected to the projector. I think the One S has been notoriously problematic with the UB with 4kHDR content, but the UBe is able to overcome the issue by being at least able to receive the signal it sends out. The option to avoid running another wire and the slightly better device compatibility was compelling enough for me to spend more.


----------



## elex_enthu

Hello owners of Epson 5040 / 6040,
I have Epson 8350 since 2011. It is working fine ...still on first bulb! I have 150 inch Elite screen. Everybody who visits us, says "Wow" at the setup. I am thinking of upgrading to 5040 ..mostly UBE to have wireless HDMI. Is it a worthwhile upgrade? Will I really see huge upgrade in picture quality? House is built 4 years back and all wiring in concealed. That is the reason to go to UBE. But feel free to suggest / recommend.

Thanks.


----------



## dholmes54

Is there always trouble with the Epson and using HDR at 60 fps ? If so what's the cheapest HD fury I need?


----------



## elmalloc

elex_enthu said:


> Hello owners of Epson 5040 / 6040,
> I have Epson 8350 since 2011. It is working fine ...still on first bulb! I have 150 inch Elite screen. Everybody who visits us, says "Wow" at the setup. I am thinking of upgrading to 5040 ..mostly UBE to have wireless HDMI. Is it a worthwhile upgrade? Will I really see huge upgrade in picture quality? House is built 4 years back and all wiring in concealed. That is the reason to go to UBE. But feel free to suggest / recommend.
> 
> Thanks.


I sold my 8350 as part of upgrading to the 5040UBE. I think the time is now, based on reports of the image quality and gaming performance. I used the 8350 mainly as a gaming projector, did very well. I saw a review on Amazon of some ambient light image projected from the 8350 vs. the 5040 and it made me buy the 5040.

Also, my in wall HDMI run seems to have failed during the basement renovation, so I'm going UBE. I'll have it this week and set it up to give you more thoughts on comparisons, but I was very happy with the 8350.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

dholmes54 said:


> Is there always trouble with the Epson and using HDR at 60 fps ? If so what's the cheapest HD fury I need?


The projector simply will not receive an HDR signal at 4k60. 1080p shouldn't be a problem. The HDFury product you want, if in fact you want one, is the Linker. It's $200.


----------



## clhug

welldun said:


> This is what my invoice says:
> 
> Shipped on December 12, 2016
> 
> Items Ordered	Price
> 3 of: (2x Pair) Samsung Rechargeable 3D Active Glasses, Black
> Sold by: Amazon.com LLC
> 
> Condition: New
> $19.00


Wow, you got a great deal then! Maybe Amazon was trying to get rid of their stock and no longer carry these themselves. I'll have to keep an eye out.

I also have some inexpensive 3D glasses I purchased through (though not necessarily directly from) Amazon and will post my info on them once I've had a chance to try them in the next week or two.


----------



## k3nnis

flapjackdowntheline said:


> I'm pretty certain it's just the front of the projector that must be line of sight to the wireless transmitter. The UBe's wireless transmitter/receiver can accept slightly more signals than the UB or the UBe over physical HDMI line. So, you're not just paying more for the versatility of no wires, you're actually getting slightly more in terms of the range of signals the projector can accept. Others have written about that, and it was confirmed to me by an Epson tech through a lengthy conversation I had with one of them yesterday. The attached chart from Epson tech support shows this.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: To be absolutely clear, the UBe merely _accepts_ a signal that the UB won't. It won't actually _display_ all the information from that incoming signal. Note in the chart that the signal that the UBe can _accept_ that the UB cannot (up to 4k24 4:4:4 12bit) is "processed at 4:2:2 10bit". The bandwidth of the wireless transmitter and receiver is slightly greater than the bandwidth you can get to the projector over physical HDMI. Apparently that's why the UBe can receive a slightly higher bandwidth signal. But, unfortunately, the components shared between both versions that actually process images for display have the same limitations, and thus you won't actually get to see any difference on the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> You might wonder, "what's the point?", then. And the benefit is that slightly more devices work without issue connected to the projector. I think the One S has been notoriously problematic with the UB with 4kHDR content, but the UBe is able to overcome the issue by being at least able to receive the signal it sends out. The option to avoid running another wire and the slightly better device compatibility was compelling enough for me to spend more.




Thanks for the info. So if I had the UB non wireless and a linker will that solve the issue with the Xbox one S?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PeterJ101

I'm honestly so stuck on either the Epson 5040 or the JVC 420, that I don't think I'll get either at this point. haha! I'm in a never ending indecision loop.

I may just go a different route for something cheaper to hold me over...Epson 3700??? Who knows...


----------



## dholmes54

flapjackdowntheline said:


> The projector simply will not receive an HDR signal at 4k60. 1080p shouldn't be a problem. The HDFury product you want, if in fact you want one, is the Linker. It's $200.


Is that what its called at HD Fury the linker,does it work? Thxs


----------



## rd7723

HarleyRider said:


> I cannot say enough good things about Crutchfield.com. Items are almost always in stock, fast and free shipping on orders over $35, 60 day return policy. And great customer service. I bought my 5040ub in January and when their price dropped this month, I contacted them, said I was still within the 60 day return window and asked if they'd refund me the $500 difference. They did! Credited my Visa the same day. Can't beat that!


I agree 100 percent on Crutchfield.


----------



## bigabit

rmilyard said:


> Right now the screen is 100" 16:9. Seating is about 15 feet from screen I believe. I have a Denon AVR-X6200 setup ATMOS 7.2.4.


At 100" the ideal distance for true 4k is around 13' (or closer). At 15' 4k "enhancement" may be just about all the boost you need from a pixel density standpoint.

With a 7.2.4 setup seems like the ability to play the UHD discs would add a lot of value. Was mostly what prompted me to upgrade.


----------



## bigabit

swyda038 said:


> What place online is the best place to purchase the epson 5040ube based on pricing, return policy, customer service, etc.?
> 
> Thanks!


I ordered my first unit from Amazon (direct/prime). Sent it back a month later with 100 hours on the bulb. Full refund, no questions asked.


----------



## dataJunkie

Query for those PS4 Pro owners out there .. 

I started playing Horizon Zero Dawn last night on my 6040UB, and have to set my Denon x6300 to '4K' specifically to get it displaying on the projector.

So far so good, 4K output with HDR. The anomaly comes when you are transitioning from standing main Character to a running main Character .. the whole picture shimmers and turns darker before settling into a fluid scene again. Almost as if the HDR & pixel-shift is taking a second to readjust to the change of pace in the scene in Faux-K...

It's hard to describe and I'll try and post a vid later to illustrate ... but I have found that if I reduce the Enhanced Effects to Preset 1 .. the shimmer goes away, not completely - but enough to make it not immediately noticeable.

I've yet to try the game on my Panny Plasma or run at 1080P through the projector ... with the preset set to 3.

So just wondering if anyone else has taken the plunge into Horizon Zero Dawn's world and experienced the same issue? Or any suggestions as to what may be happening?

Thanks,

n


----------



## Charlie Anderson

dataJunkie said:


> Query for those PS4 Pro owners out there ..
> 
> 
> 
> I started playing Horizon Zero Dawn last night on my 6040UB, and have to set my Denon x6300 to '4K' specifically to get it displaying on the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> So far so good, 4K output with HDR. The anomaly comes when you are transitioning from standing main Character to a running main Character .. the whole picture shimmers and turns darker before settling into a fluid scene again. Almost as if the HDR & pixel-shift is taking a second to readjust to the change of pace in the scene in Faux-K...
> 
> 
> 
> It's hard to describe and I'll try and post a vid later to illustrate ... but I have found that if I reduce the Enhanced Effects to Preset 1 .. the shimmer goes away, not completely - but enough to make it not immediately noticeable.
> 
> 
> 
> I've yet to try the game on my Panny Plasma or run at 1080P through the projector ... with the preset set to 3.
> 
> 
> 
> So just wondering if anyone else has taken the plunge into Horizon Zero Dawn's world and experienced the same issue? Or any suggestions as to what may be happening?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> 
> n




I haven't played that yet but can let you know when I end up picking it up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

k3nnis said:


> Thanks for the info. So if I had the UB non wireless and a linker will that solve the issue with the Xbox one S?


Yes.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

dholmes54 said:


> Is that what its called at HD Fury the linker,does it work? Thxs


Yes, the product is called the HDFury Linker. Yes, it works.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs,flapjack


----------



## Oledurt

Oledurt said:


> Hey,
> 
> I live in NE and I do believe he does travel but I am not sure the details on that. His name is Michael Boeker and his number is 402-517-0271.
> 
> He was very professional, and had a lot of knowledge. He had very expensive equipment over 20k invested in his tools. I am positive he was familiar with my Epson as he knew his way around it without any issues or questions.
> 
> He even reset my lens memory settings since they were not perfect. So I can tell you that for HDR he used digital cinema with a custom gamma curve to compensate for the lack of brightness.
> 
> He showed me how accurate he got the HDR Electro Optical Transfer Function. It was nearly perfect. For Blu Ray he used Natural. He calibrated using Auto Bright mode (HDR 1). Super White was left off, and I see no clipped whites or anything like that.
> 
> To be honest I think the key to getting HDR right with this projector is the custom gamma settings. I can say that the way he set my gamma is not anything like what I found posted in this thread.
> 
> As far as him spending 6 hours working on the calibration I can tell you he was extremely meticulous in his approach. He did not just use his instruments and punch the numbers in and walk out. He brought different discs mastered at both 1000 nits and 4000 nits, and spent quite a bit of time actually confirming his settings using various media.
> 
> He also used various approaches to achieve a desired result, and than went with the best one.
> 
> He told me that the Epson has very good color and is pretty accurate. There was a color error in green on the BT2020 color space but the DCI colorspace was nearly perfect once calibrated. Rec709 was nearly perfect as well.
> 
> So was it worth it? HELL YES! For the HDR calibration alone. I should have done this as soon as I bought the projector, and I most certainly will pay for the calibration on my next one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Follow up.

After some viewing of HDR material I found that I was getting overexposed clipped whites on certain films like Everest. I emailed my calibrator and he came back over last night.

Did a little more testing, and discovered digital cinema just doesn't have the light output. So I suggested bright cinema mode. He tested it and found it had double the light output.

I read on here that you lose the P3 colorspace once you switch out of digital cinema/cinema mode. I can confirm that is not true. The green had more of an error in bright cinema mode vs digital cinema, but the p3 colorspace is still being shown.

He got everything dialed in, and added a custom gamma curve. We tested it on some material and WOW what an amazing picture! The HDR is as bright as I have seen it, and on some scenes it almost can hurt your eyes.

I rewatched Everest last night, and it was stunning no clipping, and great detail. Then I tried a darker movie Suicide Squad, which is also mastered at 4000 nits. It was really awesome. Blacks were still really good but the overall shadow detail, and light floor seemed to be raised. The ending with all the lightning was very bright. Skin tones are nearly perfect now.

I also had him check Natural, but it was not as bright as Bright Cinema. We got over 26 ft lamberts at the screen with Bright Cinema. Which is only around 86 nits. Even though the movies are mastered at 1000 to 4000 nits, my calibrator explained that most HDR highlights in movies average at around 100 nits currently. It is doubtful that projectors will ever be bright enough to do HDR properly, but it still looks really good on the calibrated Epson. Better than SDR, and that is what I was looking for.

So besides the small error to green the other colors calibrated nicely. So in the in end Auto Bright (HDR 1) with Bright Cinema is the way to go. Calibrated Colors, and a custom gamma curve. Super White off, Auto Iris off (user discretion) no super resolution or detail enhancements.

A wonderful calibrated picture...Thanks for reading! The End  





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## VATerp

elmalloc said:


> I saw this on my first projector set up as well. Any chance a heat drop/vent is anywhere in the line of sight of your projected image?


Yes, you may be on to something there. I will see if that is in fact what is causing it. Any recommendations regarding updating the colors/settings on my projector? Or a better way to calibrate it for my room easily?


----------



## jsil

Hi Oledurt,

What firmware version is the Epson on?


----------



## dholmes54

Oledurt are you using the fury linker and a fiber optic cable,how long is your cable from your avr to projector?


----------



## Charlie Anderson

swyda038 said:


> Getting ready to purchase the epson 5040 and can't decide between the 5040ub or 5040ube.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 30' in the wall HDMI 2.2 cable that runs from my AVR is (which is behind a bar) to the where the projector would go which is located in a soffit and will be surrounded on all sides except for the front of the projector(see image). I was thinking of the wireless to give me an additional option in case the hdmi cable doesn't work well.
> 
> 
> 
> I have two concerns: One is if the wireless will even work if the wireless transmitter is in line of sight of just the front of the projector or does the entire projector need to be exposed / out in the open for it to work. I could move the projector to be in front of the soffit if needed to expose it, but would really like it to stay more hidden in the soffit. My other concern is future proofing with the HDCP compatibility issue and not wanting to have to fish a new HDMI cable through the wall again if they change to a different HDCP in the future, that my cable is not compatible with. This may not even be an issue as I really don't know too much about it, but wanted to get your thoughts.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any other reasons to go with a wireless over the regular projector or vice versa (ie. better image quality, etc.)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks




FYI I tested 35', 30', & 25' high speed HDMI cables. Only the 25' worked for me with HDR & 4K signal. I would make sure you test it out 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

VATerp said:


> Yes, you may be on to something there. I will see if that is in fact what is causing it. Any recommendations regarding updating the colors/settings on my projector? Or a better way to calibrate it for my room easily?


I have a vent in-between my projector and screen and I can see the heat waves when the heater is on. Cool effect at first, but obviously ruins the movie.


----------



## Oledurt

jsil said:


> Hi Oledurt,
> 
> 
> 
> What firmware version is the Epson on?




The latest. 1.09 I think it is.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

dholmes54 said:


> Oledurt are you using the fury linker and a fiber optic cable,how long is your cable from your avr to projector?




No. Just straight connection from Blu Ray to AVR. My cable from projector to AVR is 25 feet.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jsil

Where you on 1.08 before the calibration?


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs oledurt so your not using uhd disk or 4k 60hz


----------



## Oledurt

jsil said:


> Where you on 1.08 before the calibration?




Nope the calibrator did all his work after I updated the firmware to 1.09


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs oledurt so your not using uhd disk or 4k 60hz




I watch blu ray and UHD @ 4k 24hz 4:2:2. I don't game on the projector and I use an Oppo 203 UHD player to watch movies.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

Oledurt said:


> I watch blu ray and UHD @ 4k 24hz 4:2:2. I don't game on the projector and I use an Oppo 203 UHD player to watch movies.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Do you watch Netflix with it? Does Netflix output 24 or 60Hz for 4k HDR shows?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs oledurt that's the way I'm watching movies at 24fps,I have a few uhd disk and a Philips player and I think it looks great without HDR & 4k60,but maybe I'm wrong,HDR and 4k 60 might look better.


----------



## Oledurt

k3nnis said:


> Do you watch Netflix with it? Does Netflix output 24 or 60Hz for 4k HDR shows?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I don't watch netflix in my home theater. I think netflix has 4k not sure about HDR. I am not sure how it outputs on the Epson.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs oledurt that's the way I'm watching movies at 24fps,I have a few uhd disk and a Philips player and I think it looks great without HDR & 4k60,but maybe I'm wrong,HDR and 4k 60 might look better.




Well most movies are fillmed @24 frames per second so if you are watching 4k 24hz that is the way the filmmaker intended it to be seen. My understanding is 4k 60hz is more for video games, hdtv, and video.

If you can get an ISF trained calibrator and are willing to spend the money it is well worth it for this projector. I highly recommend it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

*Nvidia Shield TV 2017 fully updated. *

Loss of HDR via Netflix after 1.09 firmware update. The UHD 4k titles are still listed in 4k/24p, but no longer receive HDR no matter what I do. 

I do receive HDR via Amazon App, but there are VERY few titles listed in HDR. Amazon doesn't even have big name movies in HDR. Just coral reef documentaries and such, but none the less the HDR is passing through on those few titles at least. 

Weird. I was receiving HDR via Netflix with the 1.08 firmware, but no longer.


----------



## Evan201

What is the absolute best way to avoid shuddering/jumpiness when panning occurs in certain movies? I noticed the jumpiness pretty bad in some panning scenes in standard BD Revenant. 
This was playing through an XBX One. 

Image processing to FAST instead of FINE? 

Turn off 4k enhancement?

Anything else that helps?


----------



## jsil

So did you notice a difference between the two firmware's in HDR 1 mode. I'm trying to see if firmware 1.09 made a difference with brightness in HDR mode thanks.


----------



## dholmes54

Can't afford a certified isf tech don't think there's any in my area, they have to come to far,live in remote area


----------



## Oledurt

jsil said:


> So did you notice a difference between the two firmware's in HDR 1 mode. I'm trying to see if firmware 1.09 made a difference with brightness in HDR mode thanks.




I think it is the same. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jsil

I know pictures cannot tell the whole story but could you post some thanks.


----------



## Oledurt

jsil said:


> I know pictures cannot tell the whole story but could you post some thanks.




ok I will in a bit any requests?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

PeterJ101 said:


> I'm honestly so stuck on either the Epson 5040 or the JVC 420, that I don't think I'll get either at this point. haha! I'm in a never ending indecision loop.
> 
> I may just go a different route for something cheaper to hold me over...Epson 3700??? Who knows...


Hopefully new Epson 5050 and new JVCs announced at CEDIA Sept 2017.


----------



## jsil

A mix of 4k movies with dark scenes and dead horse scene from Revenant in 4k thanks.


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> Follow up.
> 
> After some viewing of HDR material I found that I was getting overexposed clipped whites on certain films like Everest. I emailed my calibrator and he came back over last night.
> 
> Did a little more testing, and discovered digital cinema just doesn't have the light output. So I suggested bright cinema mode. He tested it and found it had double the light output.
> 
> I read on here that you lose the P3 colorspace once you switch out of digital cinema/cinema mode. I can confirm that is not true. The green had more of an error in bright cinema mode vs digital cinema, but the p3 colorspace is still being shown.
> 
> He got everything dialed in, and added a custom gamma curve. We tested it on some material and WOW what an amazing picture! The HDR is as bright as I have seen it, and on some scenes it almost can hurt your eyes.
> 
> I rewatched Everest last night, and it was stunning no clipping, and great detail. Then I tried a darker movie Suicide Squad, which is also mastered at 4000 nits. It was really awesome. Blacks were still really good but the overall shadow detail, and light floor seemed to be raised. The ending with all the lightning was very bright. Skin tones are nearly perfect now.
> 
> I also had him check Natural, but it was not as bright as Bright Cinema. We got over 26 ft lamberts at the screen with Bright Cinema. Which is only around 86 nits. Even though the movies are mastered at 1000 to 4000 nits, my calibrator explained that most HDR highlights in movies average at around 100 nits currently. It is doubtful that projectors will ever be bright enough to do HDR properly, but it still looks really good on the calibrated Epson. Better than SDR, and that is what I was looking for.
> 
> So besides the small error to green the other colors calibrated nicely. So in the in end Auto Bright (HDR 1) with Bright Cinema is the way to go. Calibrated Colors, and a custom gamma curve. Super White off, Auto Iris off (user discretion) no super resolution or detail enhancements.
> 
> A wonderful calibrated picture...Thanks for reading! The End
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Apologies if you've mentioned this previously, but what size screen do you have and how far away is your pj mounted? Just wondering if that's the main reason you think digital cinema isn't putting out enough light.

I completely agree that bright cinema is much brighter but if you have a 140" screen and you're 20ft away then you certainly need more fL than someone that has a 100" screen mounted 12ft away. Also, what is your manual iris setting at? 

Lastly, are you saying your calibrator is thinking Epson is incorrect in their communications that only Cinema & Dig Cinema use the P3 color space? That's certainly interesting, but why can't we hear the filter moving when choosing bright cinema?


----------



## Oledurt

125 inch screen projector is 15 feet back. I sit 10 feet from screen. My calibrator tested the colorspace of digital cinema and bright cinema. His readings confirmed that you are still getting the bt2020/P3 colorspace in bright cinema mode without the cinema filter. The greens are not quite as accurate as digital cinema mode. Once calibrated looks damn good though.

digital cinema mode has superior color accuracy. In regards to HDR you want as much brightness as you can get, and a custom gamma curve to get the most out of this projector or any projector frankly.

The calibrator plotted the colors using very expensive gear. I don't have to guess. you are getting p3 without the cinema filter.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

jsil said:


> A mix of 4k movies with dark scenes and dead horse scene from Revenant in 4k thanks.




Here you go.










Keep in mind these are pictures it is better in person.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jsil

Thanks for the pictures.


----------



## ac388

So, I assume you have the latest firmware 222 on the Oppo too, right ? Any specific settings on the 203 ?


----------



## bigabit

Evan201 said:


> *Nvidia Shield TV 2017 fully updated. *
> 
> Loss of HDR via Netflix after 1.09 firmware update. The UHD 4k titles are still listed in 4k/24p, but no longer receive HDR no matter what I do.
> 
> I do receive HDR via Amazon App, but there are VERY few titles listed in HDR. Amazon doesn't even have big name movies in HDR. Just coral reef documentaries and such, but none the less the HDR is passing through on those few titles at least.
> 
> Weird. I was receiving HDR via Netflix with the 1.08 firmware, but no longer.


Can't explain how this relates to firmware but one thing I know for sure is that Netflix will not show HDR at less than 60hz.

Cited in this article:
https://support.roku.com/article/235400407-why-is-4k-at-60-fps-important-to-playing-hdr-content-

Not device specific. Platform specific. I don't think netflix has 24hz HDR streams. I swear other people have had it working though. But I have never been able to get HDR on Netflix on Roku or Shield.

Looking forward to this changing or somebody figuring it out.


----------



## Oledurt

bigabit said:


> This is awesome info. So you are using Bright Cinema / HDR 1? What about Natural?




He calibrated natural for rec709 blu ray. For HDR it put out less lumens than bright cinema.

Yes I am using Bright Cinema/HDR 1 for UHD. ISF Calibrated.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

bigabit said:


> Can't explain how this relates to firmware but one thing I know for sure is that Netflix will not show HDR at less than 60hz.
> 
> Cited in this article:
> https://support.roku.com/article/235400407-why-is-4k-at-60-fps-important-to-playing-hdr-content-
> 
> Not device specific. Platform specific. I don't think netflix has 24hz HDR streams. I swear other people have had it working though. But I have never been able to get HDR on Netflix on Roku or Shield.
> 
> Looking forward to this changing or somebody figuring it out.


I for sure had HDR running with Netflix. That indian adam sandler movie was totally feeding HDR. 
I updated the Firmware on the projector and then a day later updated the shield to its newest update. 

Stopped sending after that.


----------



## k3nnis

Was that Netflix movie in 24Hz?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

The best I can get with HDR streaming from the Amazon app on Nvidia Shield 2017 so far. 
This is for my particular taste. So far my favorite thing to watch with the epson is animation 1080p 23.98hz. This projector handles SDR BD material the best imo. I did these settings while watching the good dinosaur BD 12bit rec709 from an xbox one. They seem pretty good for HDR streaming too. 
Pictures taken with Iphone 7
Gamma 0 Auto Bright 

Amazon Video 4k UHD HDR passing through. I'm able to do this with about 3 amazon videos. 
screenshot program

image post

image url

image hosting no sign up

Good Dino BD via XBX one Same Settings. Gamma 0 Auto Bright 
pic host

gif hosting

host image online


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> Follow up.
> 
> After some viewing of HDR material I found that I was getting overexposed clipped whites on certain films like Everest. I emailed my calibrator and he came back over last night.
> 
> Did a little more testing, and discovered digital cinema just doesn't have the light output. So I suggested bright cinema mode. He tested it and found it had double the light output.
> 
> I read on here that you lose the P3 colorspace once you switch out of digital cinema/cinema mode. I can confirm that is not true. The green had more of an error in bright cinema mode vs digital cinema, but the p3 colorspace is still being shown.
> 
> He got everything dialed in, and added a custom gamma curve. We tested it on some material and WOW what an amazing picture! The HDR is as bright as I have seen it, and on some scenes it almost can hurt your eyes.
> 
> I rewatched Everest last night, and it was stunning no clipping, and great detail. Then I tried a darker movie Suicide Squad, which is also mastered at 4000 nits. It was really awesome. Blacks were still really good but the overall shadow detail, and light floor seemed to be raised. The ending with all the lightning was very bright. Skin tones are nearly perfect now.
> 
> I also had him check Natural, but it was not as bright as Bright Cinema. We got over 26 ft lamberts at the screen with Bright Cinema. Which is only around 86 nits. Even though the movies are mastered at 1000 to 4000 nits, my calibrator explained that most HDR highlights in movies average at around 100 nits currently. It is doubtful that projectors will ever be bright enough to do HDR properly, but it still looks really good on the calibrated Epson. Better than SDR, and that is what I was looking for.
> 
> So besides the small error to green the other colors calibrated nicely. So in the in end Auto Bright (HDR 1) with Bright Cinema is the way to go. Calibrated Colors, and a custom gamma curve. Super White off, Auto Iris off (user discretion) no super resolution or detail enhancements.
> 
> A wonderful calibrated picture...Thanks for reading! The End
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I've been playing with digital and bright cinema for HDR, nothing scientific as yet though. I can see that bright cinema has to much colour even though couloir control is 50. I took a guess and am thinking this is why it appears to have the WCG 2020 without the P3 filter.

I'm not a big fan of very bright images from a projector, indeed a television to and the thought of 'almost hurts my eyes' would be a no go for myself. I don't know what Iris setting he's used or contrast setting but with superwhite off it must be incredibly bright!.

I also find digital cinema to have better base black floor which helps in dark scenes.

So what peak White ftl did he set for you ?.

Thanks.


----------



## rupedogg24

dataJunkie said:


> Query for those PS4 Pro owners out there ..
> 
> I started playing Horizon Zero Dawn last night on my 6040UB, and have to set my Denon x6300 to '4K' specifically to get it displaying on the projector.
> 
> So far so good, 4K output with HDR. The anomaly comes when you are transitioning from standing main Character to a running main Character .. the whole picture shimmers and turns darker before settling into a fluid scene again. Almost as if the HDR & pixel-shift is taking a second to readjust to the change of pace in the scene in Faux-K...
> 
> It's hard to describe and I'll try and post a vid later to illustrate ... but I have found that if I reduce the Enhanced Effects to Preset 1 .. the shimmer goes away, not completely - but enough to make it not immediately noticeable.
> 
> I've yet to try the game on my Panny Plasma or run at 1080P through the projector ... with the preset set to 3.
> 
> So just wondering if anyone else has taken the plunge into Horizon Zero Dawn's world and experienced the same issue? Or any suggestions as to what may be happening?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> n


I have it and have not experienced that. Turn off the processing from your AVR. I have the onkyo rz1100 with upscaling turned off. I let the projector handle the 4k upscale. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## hatlesschimp

Whats the go with Bobby or Billy Lyns halftime walk. Im 5.33 minutes into it. The acting is terrible, the filming is terrible and to top it off its in 16.9. Should I keep watching or end it now? And watch John Wick 4k instead?


----------



## covsound1

after 109 update lost ruko 4k 30 frame feature defaults to 60 frame hdr. netflex only plays at 60hz 709 4k. amazon still defaults to 24hz hdr 2020 8 bit on edit 8 from hdfury, vudo also defaults 709 8 bit uhd . looks like the only streaming hdr service will be the amazon app for the epson. the hdr is not a big deal for me but not having bt2020 vudo and fandago sucks!


----------



## migsta

*Harmony Companion & 6040UB*

So I bought a Harmony Companion hub & remote just to control the Shield Non-Pro. Works okay turning on my PREAMP & SHIELD but the Epson 6040UB will not turn on no matter what I try. The hub is in Line of Sight (LoS) with the Shield & PREAMP but the projector is not. But even when I connect the IR Emitter to the hub and place it as close as I can, so within LoS of the projector, nothing happens. I even went as far as trying to get the hub to memorize the power off/on from the Epson remote but it will not recognize that remotes command. Anything else I can try to get the Epson to turn on/off with the Harmony?


----------



## dataJunkie

rupedogg24 said:


> I have it and have not experienced that. Turn off the processing from your AVR. I have the onkyo rz1100 with upscaling turned off. I let the projector handle the 4k upscale.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


OK .. thanks for this.

I done just that last night .. and curiously .. when I disable the processing on the AVR, the projector only outputs 1080p. Any idea why this might be? Figured if it was a HDMI Cabling issue I'd not get 4K at all. But only with the 4K Processing on set to 4K will the Projector process the signal.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

migsta said:


> So I bought a Harmony Companion hub & remote just to control the Shield Non-Pro. Works okay turning on my PREAMP & SHIELD but the Epson 6040UB will not turn on no matter what I try. The hub is in Line of Sight (LoS) with the Shield & PREAMP but the projector is not. But even when I connect the IR Emitter to the hub and place it as close as I can, so within LoS of the projector, nothing happens. I even went as far as trying to get the hub to memorize the power off/on from the Epson remote but it will not recognize that remotes command. Anything else I can try to get the Epson to turn on/off with the Harmony?


Strange. Something is wrong somewhere. I have the Harmony Hub/remote and the IR from the hub controls my 5040UBe without issue. The Hub is located about 12 feet away directly in front of the projector. My projector is mounted to the ceiling. I have a shelf on the other side of the room at projector height that supports the Hub and my wireless transmitter.


----------



## rupedogg24

dataJunkie said:


> OK .. thanks for this.
> 
> I done just that last night .. and curiously .. when I disable the processing on the AVR, the projector only outputs 1080p. Any idea why this might be? Figured if it was a HDMI Cabling issue I'd not get 4K at all. But only with the 4K Processing on set to 4K will the Projector process the signal.


You may just want to check that image enhancement is ON in the projector settings. Then you can adjust the leves (1,2,3) from there to your preference.


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> I've been playing with digital and bright cinema for HDR, nothing scientific as yet though. I can see that bright cinema has to much colour even though couloir control is 50. I took a guess and am thinking this is why it appears to have the WCG 2020 without the P3 filter.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a big fan of very bright images from a projector, indeed a television to and the thought of 'almost hurts my eyes' would be a no go for myself. I don't know what Iris setting he's used or contrast setting but with superwhite off it must be incredibly bright!.
> 
> 
> 
> I also find digital cinema to have better base black floor which helps in dark scenes.
> 
> 
> 
> So what peak White ftl did he set for you ?.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.




Bright Cinema mode does show the P3 BT2020 WCG. It does not appear to show it, because the calibrator took readings and showed me a color plot that confirmed it.

HDR is about contrast. Deeper blacks and brighter whites. Everyday you see things much brighter than what your TV is capable of, and your eyes handle it just fine. 

Our eyes are most sensitive to contrast changes. HDR done properly can give you a whole new sense of depth in an image. Projectors don't have near the light output to do HDR properly, and neither do current LED panels, however they get much closer than projectors.

That being said you can still get a very good image with HDR on this projector if it is properly done. 

The calibrated picture I have has very deep blacks and really good contrast. Digital Cinema just does not have enough light output to properly do HDR the contrast is too narrow, and whites get clipped. The only way to prevent this is to lower contrast or turn super white on. Problem with that is you lose brightness, and the picture looks too dark.

Bright Cinema has double the light output, and can provide a much better HDR image, and contrast. In this mode you can have a wider HDR like contrast, AND retain the overall brightness of the image. You can guess your settings I did that for awhile too. Or you can either pay a calibrator or invest in some instruments yourself, and test your projector.

You need a custom gamma curve to make it right, and the only way you can do that is through taking readings. If you don't than you are just guessing.

Even if I posted all my settings from the calibration they would not work for you. My room, and conditions are different than yours. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

dataJunkie said:


> OK .. thanks for this.
> 
> I done just that last night .. and curiously .. when I disable the processing on the AVR, the projector only outputs 1080p. Any idea why this might be? Figured if it was a HDMI Cabling issue I'd not get 4K at all. But only with the 4K Processing on set to 4K will the Projector process the signal.


Additionally, If you only have the PS4 and you are running it in HDR remember that it will only output at HDR at 1080p.


----------



## dholmes54

How did you guys get your HDMI cable from your avr to your projector under 20 ft, mine is 30 ft and that is as short as I can get it,my projector is 12 ft from the screen.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

dholmes54 said:


> How did you guys get your HDMI cable from your avr to your projector under 20 ft, mine is 30 ft and that is as short as I can get it,my projector is 12 ft from the screen.


My HDMI run is 10'. lol My rack sits in the middle of the wall to the right, right behind the couch. PJ will be mounted on ceiling perpendicular to rack. (just got my 5040! , haven't had time to install it yet, work work work).

Oh, and AVR sits on top of rack = shortest HDMI run possible.


----------



## rmilyard

dholmes54 said:


> How did you guys get your HDMI cable from your avr to your projector under 20 ft, mine is 30 ft and that is as short as I can get it,my projector is 12 ft from the screen.


I would like to know also. Mine cable had to be 50 feet. I had to run it behind this PVC crown molding we found. My 5040 is coming today.


----------



## dataJunkie

rupedogg24 said:


> Additionally, If you only have the PS4 and you are running it in HDR remember that it will only output at HDR at 1080p.


Hi .. yes ..it's a PS4 Pro. Will check tonight, but almost sure the 4K Enhancement is set to 'On' .. 

Cheers,

n


----------



## HarleyRider

dholmes54 said:


> How did you guys get your HDMI cable from your avr to your projector under 20 ft, mine is 30 ft and that is as short as I can get it,my projector is 12 ft from the screen.


You may have to relocate your components closer to the projector if possible. All of my components are at the back of the room, in a wall unit behind the main seating position, basically directly underneath where I have the projector. That puts my projector only about 6' from my pre/pro.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs guys,the only way to get mine shorter would be straight from projector to behind the screen,but that would only shorten it by a few ft.All my equipment is in front below the screen and projector above my head,as long as HDMI been around it should work perfectly at any length unless its a very cheap one.I've had no problems yet with my new 30 ft redmere cable but I'm not running 4k60 just 24fps.


----------



## dholmes54

HarleyRider said:


> You may have to relocate your components closer to the projector if possible. All of my components are at the back of the room, in a wall unit behind the main seating position, basically directly underneath where I have the projector. That puts my projector only about 6' from my pre/pro.


Good idea but I can't,when I made the room I designed it for a big TV not a projector and all the outlets are in the front and I've got a very small room 22x11x8 ft.thxs


----------



## dvdwilly3

For those of you not paying attention (I wasn't...), Epson has posted a new firmware update 109 on their update page.

Looking at it briefly while troubleshooting something else, I noticed under Signal...Advanced...Dynamic Range...that it now includes as the first choice Auto (Bright).
The second choice is now Auto.

With a little experimentation, that Auto (Bright) setting will default to HDR1. Yea!!

And, Auto (second choice) still defaults to HDR2 like always.

There may be other changes...I am still chasing my current problem...


----------



## Natrix1973

dvdwilly3 said:


> For those of you not paying attention (I wasn't...), Epson has posted a new firmware update 109 on their update page.
> 
> Looking at it briefly while troubleshooting something else, I noticed under Signal...Advanced...Dynamic Range...that it now includes as the first choice Auto (Bright).
> The second choice is now Auto.
> 
> With a little experimentation, that Auto (Bright) setting will default to HDR1. Yea!!
> 
> And, Auto (second choice) still defaults to HDR2 like always.
> 
> There may be other changes...I am still chasing my current problem...


Yep, been available and discussed in here since the middle of February!


----------



## dvdwilly3

Natrix1973 said:


> Yep, been available and discussed in here since the middle of February!


Curiously, I ran a search on 5040 update 109, and the search turned up nothing...

Oh, well, better late than never...


----------



## dholmes54

If I decide to get a HD Fury Linker will it work with a mono price active HDMI cable red mere?


----------



## NoTechi

Evan201 said:


> I for sure had HDR running with Netflix. That indian adam sandler movie was totally feeding HDR.
> I updated the Firmware on the projector and then a day later updated the shield to its newest update.
> 
> Stopped sending after that.


Same here I watched multiple stuff in 4k BT2020 HDR on Netflix. After I updated the shield and the projector firmware I am stuck with 4k BT2020 SDR. The old reboot at 50Hz and go back to 23Hz workaround is not working for me anymore even though the UHD section is still shown in Netflix.
Beside that 4k BT2020 still looks amazing 

NoTechi


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

dholmes54 said:


> If I decide to get a HD Fury Linker will it work with a mono price active HDMI cable red mere?


It should work as well as any other device would using any particular cable.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs flapjack


----------



## wickedg8gt

Hey everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my projector in a year or so. I currently have an Epson 5010. I havn't read all 207 pages but I'll try to get through most. I've seen a lot of good and some bad with 5040 due to firmware and hdr stuff. But again, I havn't read the whole thread so I might be reading to much into it. If you were me, would you get the current 5040, or wait to see if they have a "5050" this or next year with all the latest kinks and firmware and all little updates and things fixed that the 5040 kinda had problems with? Thanks my friends.


----------



## exm

wickedg8gt said:


> Hey everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my projector in a year or so. I currently have an Epson 5010. I havn't read all 207 pages but I'll try to get through most. I've seen a lot of good and some bad with 5040 due to firmware and hdr stuff. But again, I havn't read the whole thread so I might be reading to much into it. If you were me, would you get the current 5040, or wait to see if they have a "5050" this or next year with all the latest kinks and firmware and all little updates and things fixed that the 5040 kinda had problems with? Thanks my friends.


The 5040UB is a great projector, but it has limitations especially with the HDMI chipset bandwidth. The problem is that after the 5050 you want to wait for the 5060, then for the... You know what I'm saying. I don't have any problems with my 6040.

Do you have a receiver that can handle HDR and 4K?


----------



## welldun

wickedg8gt said:


> Hey everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my projector in a year or so. I currently have an Epson 5010. I havn't read all 207 pages but I'll try to get through most. I've seen a lot of good and some bad with 5040 due to firmware and hdr stuff. But again, I havn't read the whole thread so I might be reading to much into it. If you were me, would you get the current 5040, or wait to see if they have a "5050" this or next year with all the latest kinks and firmware and all little updates and things fixed that the 5040 kinda had problems with? Thanks my friends.


Depending on when you got the 5010, it seems like you are ok waiting a few Generations before considering a change. If you've waited this long and you are not looking to do anything until next year anyways, why not wait to see if the 5050 or some other version is available then. I think those of us who have the 5040 now and have learned enough about how to get the most out of it,would say we're pretty happy. My last projector before this one was purchased in 2007. So I was pretty patient. The difference between my old one and the new 5040 is night and day.


----------



## wickedg8gt

exm said:


> The 5040UB is a great projector, but it has limitations especially with the HDMI chipset bandwidth. The problem is that after the 5050 you want to wait for the 5060, then for the... You know what I'm saying. I don't have any problems with my 6040.
> 
> Do you have a receiver that can handle HDR and 4K?



Thank you. As of right now, I do not own anything 4k or HDR, just considering an upgrade. I'm buying my first home and wanted my livingroom/theatre room to be nice. But I also know the 5040 is not a true 4k also. And I'm trying to read the whole thread currently, but what is the HDMI chipset bandwith problem the 5040 has? Thanks.


----------



## wickedg8gt

welldun said:


> Depending on when you got the 5010, it seems like you are ok waiting a few Generations before considering a change. If you've waited this long and you are not looking to do anything until next year anyways, why not wait to see if the 5050 or some other version is available then. I think those of us who have the 5040 now and have learned enough about how to get the most out of it,would say we're pretty happy. My last projector before this one was purchased in 2007. So I was pretty patient. The difference between my old one and the new 5040 is night and day.




I bought my 5010 a month or two after it came out. Yeah I don't upgrade often. But it has been several years. You are correct though, I've waited this long, I can wait till the "5050" comes out. It maybe full 4k or not have some of the firmware issues or chip issues this one people have noticed.


----------



## HarleyRider

wickedg8gt said:


> Hey everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my projector in a year or so. I currently have an Epson 5010. I havn't read all 207 pages but I'll try to get through most. I've seen a lot of good and some bad with 5040 due to firmware and hdr stuff. But again, I havn't read the whole thread so I might be reading to much into it. If you were me, would you get the current 5040, or wait to see if they have a "5050" this or next year with all the latest kinks and firmware and all little updates and things fixed that the 5040 kinda had problems with? Thanks my friends.


Right now is a great time to pick up the 5040UB or 5040UBe because Epson just dropped the prices. But if you're not looking to do anything for a while, I'd wait to see how that new Optoma UHD60 looks that's coming out this year. It'll be the first sub-$3000 native 4K projector. There's also the new BenQ HT8050 native 4K projector that just came out. More than the Epson, but half the price of the Sony. Not endorsing either of those, just pointing out that native 4K projectors are dropping in price pretty quickly. Up until last month, the $10k Sony was the lowest priced true 4K projector. That's changing quickly. All that aside, with proper calibration, the 5040 can output a pretty stunning picture.


----------



## wickedg8gt

HarleyRider said:


> Right now is a great time to pick up the 5040UB or 5040UBe because Epson just dropped the prices. But if you're not looking to do anything for a while, I'd wait to see how that new Optoma UHD60 looks that's coming out this year. It'll be the first sub-$3000 native 4K projector. There's also the new BenQ HT8050 native 4K projector that just came out. More than the Epson, but half the price of the Sony. Not endorsing either of those, just pointing out that native 4K projectors are dropping in price pretty quickly. Up until last month, the $10k Sony was the lowest priced true 4K projector. That's changing quickly. All that aside, with proper calibration, the 5040 can output a pretty stunning picture.



Thank you. That's what I think I will do. I've owned all Epsons; 5 to be exact. I just havn't upgraded since the 5010. But I think I will wait. I don't mind switching to a different brand if they are better. Maybe Epson will fix their 4k issues on their next one and be true 4k. I will check into that BenQ.


----------



## wickedg8gt

I do however need new hdmi cables. Probably buying some in the next week. Might as well go ahead and get 4k ones and upgrade. Get future proof per say. I know Monoprice has just 1 set of cables that are 4k and HDR. It's the #15427. Not sure if they are the newest hdmi spec 2.0 or 2.2; but is that what everyone is using or is their one better out there?


----------



## cappy83

*Will my setup work???*

I've been reading for a long time and appreciate all the info everyone drops in here......

I've just bought an Epson 5040UB(First Projector!) and will have it installed next week. I'm concerned about the HDMI run....I bought a media bridge HDMI cable that supports 4k 60 hz(advertised) that's 35 feet long. Should I be concerned? Right now I have Denon x2300, Xbox One S(I'm aware of HDR issue) and just purchased the ELAC F5 and B6 setup.....

Has anyone experienced issue with longer runs? Should I look at getting another Bluray player?I just want to make sure I get the best picture and sound quality within my budget! Thanks for the help and all advice is welcome!


----------



## rmilyard

Well my new 5040ub came today. I did get it on the mount my old 2030 was using. Well.... I didn't think about this. My 2030 was at 9 feet and projected on 100" 16:9. The 5040 I can't get the image to fill screen even at full zoom. Hmmmm... I didn't want to take the mount down. I can go back about 2 feet if needed but sucks!


----------



## raf77

You have calculator on Epson website. Should use before bought Epson projector.

Wickedg8gt.
I using 50 feet long "kabel direct" HDMI from Amazon.
Have been recommended by someone in this thread.
Thanks to that person.
Cable work fine.


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> 125 inch screen projector is 15 feet back. I sit 10 feet from screen. My calibrator tested the colorspace of digital cinema and bright cinema. His readings confirmed that you are still getting the bt2020/P3 colorspace in bright cinema mode without the cinema filter. The greens are not quite as accurate as digital cinema mode. Once calibrated looks damn good though.
> 
> digital cinema mode has superior color accuracy. In regards to HDR you want as much brightness as you can get, and a custom gamma curve to get the most out of this projector or any projector frankly.
> 
> The calibrator plotted the colors using very expensive gear. I don't have to guess. you are getting p3 without the cinema filter.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Gotcha, thanks. Helpful information. I think I need a prof calibration. I really want to love HDR on this pj but I'm just not there yet. I keep reverting back to the strip metadata feature in the Oppo 203. I also keep going back and forth between dig cinema and natural and now I'm gonna have to give bright cinema a chance again! 

I was just worried that HDR on these PJ's was too new for calibrators to really have a good handle on what to do, especially if they don't have a lot of direct experience with the Epson. Was worried about wasting $375+


----------



## Oledurt

spirithockey79 said:


> Gotcha, thanks. Helpful information. I think I need a prof calibration. I really want to love HDR on this pj but I'm just not there yet. I keep reverting back to the strip metadata feature in the Oppo 203. I also keep going back and forth between dig cinema and natural and now I'm gonna have to give bright cinema a chance again!
> 
> I was just worried that HDR on these PJ's was too new for calibrators to really have a good handle on what to do, especially if they don't have a lot of direct experience with the Epson. Was worried about wasting $375+




Find a good calibrator that has calibrated HDR. Has good equipment, and is knowlegeable. Getting the right gamma curve for HDR is key.

Bright Cinema with HDR 1  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Hi Oledurt,

Thanks. Using 'Bright Cinema with Auto Bright' with a 'n' shape graph on gamma curve, while Contrast, Brightness , color n tint all untouch. I feel I am already 80% there, at least the picture is now bright enough to do all kind of calibration. I think everyone that complained picture too dark on HDR material, they should at least give this setting a shot !!!


----------



## john barlow

rmilyard said:


> Well my new 5040ub came today. I did get it on the mount my old 2030 was using. Well.... I didn't think about this. My 2030 was at 9 feet and projected on 100" 16:9. The 5040 I can't get the image to fill screen even at full zoom. Hmmmm... I didn't want to take the mount down. I can go back about 2 feet if needed but sucks!


I abandoned the ceiling mount that was utilized for both my Panny pj's. I built and installed a custom shelf above the room entrance on the rear wall opposite the screen, obviously. I wish I'd done this to begin with. My room appears larger without the hulking 5040 hanging from the ceiling. Glad I did it.


----------



## db999md

*Nvidia stream 2017 still sends netflix HDR with 1.09*

There are above posts one page back that state that after firmware update 1.09 to the projector that Netflix will no longer send HDR to the 5040ub using the nvidia shield 2017.
I have not found this to be the case - netflix HDR still works after 1.09 update. Remember, you need to lock the shield at 4k/24hz for it to work.


----------



## flyguyjake

Anyone here upgrade from a 5030? I currently have a 5030 and I just ordered the 5040 it will be here Saturday. I'm anxious to see the improvements.


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> Bright Cinema mode does show the P3 BT2020 WCG. It does not appear to show it, because the calibrator took readings and showed me a color plot that confirmed it.
> 
> HDR is about contrast. Deeper blacks and brighter whites. Everyday you see things much brighter than what your TV is capable of, and your eyes handle it just fine.
> 
> Our eyes are most sensitive to contrast changes. HDR done properly can give you a whole new sense of depth in an image. Projectors don't have near the light output to do HDR properly, and neither do current LED panels, however they get much closer than projectors.
> 
> That being said you can still get a very good image with HDR on this projector if it is properly done.
> 
> The calibrated picture I have has very deep blacks and really good contrast. Digital Cinema just does not have enough light output to properly do HDR the contrast is too narrow, and whites get clipped. The only way to prevent this is to lower contrast or turn super white on. Problem with that is you lose brightness, and the picture looks too dark.
> 
> Bright Cinema has double the light output, and can provide a much better HDR image, and contrast. In this mode you can have a wider HDR like contrast, AND retain the overall brightness of the image. You can guess your settings I did that for awhile too. Or you can either pay a calibrator or invest in some instruments yourself, and test your projector.
> 
> You need a custom gamma curve to make it right, and the only way you can do that is through taking readings. If you don't than you are just guessing.
> 
> Even if I posted all my settings from the calibration they would not work for you. My room, and conditions are different than yours.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That's reassuring then that it does actually cover WCG.

I agree our eyes do see bright images every day but sat in a completely darkened room with various scene changes if whites a bright enough to make me squint that's to bright for me, it's just a personal thing I guess.

I'm intrigued how you have very deep blacks though unless your using the auto Iris ?, you can't make blacks deeper by calibration only if they were raised to begin with using to high a brightness or the wrong video level, unfortunately I can't use the auto Iris because it's noisy and distracting during quiet scenes.

I'm not a fan of superwhite on for HDR although it's a must for the natural SDR calibration I have done, once I get V3 of ChromaPure I will have a stab at HDR calibration and setup digital and bright cinema on memories to compare, it sounds like you have a very nice calibration and your happy which is the main thing !.

I certainly wouldn't want to copy all your settings, especially greyscale and colour gamut, that would be a wrong thing to do as like you say all displays will be slightly different , I would be interested to see a screenshot of your HDR gamma curve if your calibrator left you any charts ?, that would be interesting.


----------



## LondonBenji

HarleyRider said:


> Right now is a great time to pick up the 5040UB or 5040UBe because Epson just dropped the prices.


Yikes, $500 price drop so soon after launch (~6 months)? That almost sounds like they've realised that the HDMI chipset/HDR issue is unsolvable and they are rushing it's replacement already....


----------



## ana_moo_ana

flapjackdowntheline said:


> I'm beginning to the think that a Linker is kind of an important companion device to this projector if you plan on playing games using the newest consoles, otherwise you're probably gonna have a bad time with 4k60 HDR.




guess I have a lot of reading & searching to do


----------



## rmilyard

I have a question for you all. I am going to be moving my projector mount today due to different throws from my old 2030 and new 5040. Per Epson for 100" screen need be 9' 10" - 20' 8.1" [Ft/in].

So would it matter much if say I go 10' 10" and use the zoom in? That way later if want change to 110" it would be at range?


----------



## MississippiMan

rmilyard said:


> I have a question for you all. I am going to be moving my projector mount today due to different throws from my old 2030 and new 5040. Per Epson for 100" screen need be 9' 10" - 20' 8.1" [Ft/in].
> 
> So would it matter much if say I go 10' 10" and use the zoom in? That way later if want change to 110" it would be at range?


No problem there. The Epson has a very wide range of Focal Length / Zoom.

At 10'-10" you will be optimizing the available Lumen output, and availing yourself of a tighter image.


----------



## HarleyRider

rmilyard said:


> I have a question for you all. I am going to be moving my projector mount today due to different throws from my old 2030 and new 5040. Per Epson for 100" screen need be 9' 10" - 20' 8.1" [Ft/in].
> 
> So would it matter much if say I go 10' 10" and use the zoom in? That way later if want change to 110" it would be at range?


According to the calculator on Projector Central, 10'-10" is exactly at the end of the zoom range for a 110" screen. If it were me, I'd give myself a little more wiggle room. I'm at about a 16' throw onto a 1.2 gain 110" Cinegrey screen and there's MORE then enough brightness. I'd actually go back a bit further if I could, but that'd require taking out a wall...


----------



## swyda038

bigabit said:


> I ordered my first unit from Amazon (direct/prime). Sent it back a month later with 100 hours on the bulb. Full refund, no questions asked.


Do you know how long their return policy is? Did they send you a new one or you just got your money back? Trying to decide between Crutchfield or Amazon to purchase.


----------



## dataJunkie

rupedogg24 said:


> You may just want to check that image enhancement is ON in the projector settings. Then you can adjust the leves (1,2,3) from there to your preference.


Hi again. 

After a bit more playing around here's where I'm at.

PS4 Pro renders the home page in 4K with passthrough from the AVR. When I open Horizon Zero Dawn, the first Geurilla Logo renders in 4K, and then the screen goes blank before the second Geurilla Logo and then when it comes back, the game is only outputting 1080p. Even if the PS4Pro is hard set to output in 2K, it just stays at 1080 in-game.

Go back out to the menu screen and we're back at 4K again ... curious.

Any other PS4 Pro users experience this?

Switching it up to my PC, and it renders 4K with AVR passthrough, same with NVidia SHield ..

Just with the Horizon Zero Dawn game for some reason ... 

Any suggestions welcome 

n


----------



## rmilyard

HarleyRider said:


> According to the calculator on Projector Central, 10'-10" is exactly at the end of the zoom range for a 110" screen. If it were me, I'd give myself a little more wiggle room. I'm at about a 16' throw onto a 1.2 gain 110" Cinegrey screen and there's MORE then enough brightness. I'd actually go back a bit further if I could, but that'd require taking out a wall...


I think we could do back about 12 1/5 maybe 13 max. Don't want right against the back wall.


----------



## HarleyRider

swyda038 said:


> Do you know how long their return policy is? Did they send you a new one or you just got your money back? Trying to decide between Crutchfield or Amazon to purchase.


Amazon is 30 days. Crutchfield is 60.


----------



## terminal33

cappy83 said:


> I've been reading for a long time and appreciate all the info everyone drops in here......
> 
> I've just bought an Epson 5040UB(First Projector!) and will have it installed next week. I'm concerned about the HDMI run....I bought a media bridge HDMI cable that supports 4k 60 hz(advertised) that's 35 feet long. Should I be concerned? Right now I have Denon x2300, Xbox One S(I'm aware of HDR issue) and just purchased the ELAC F5 and B6 setup.....
> 
> Has anyone experienced issue with longer runs? Should I look at getting another Bluray player?I just want to make sure I get the best picture and sound quality within my budget! Thanks for the help and all advice is welcome!


I also have the Denon x2300 and bought this 35ft HDMI cable. Everything has worked flawlessly so far, even with 4K. As for the blu ray player, I have the Philips 4K player and that has been working just fine as well. The other thing I want to mention is that I have the Denon set to "Bypass" the video. I tried having the Denon scale everything to 4K, but that did not look as good.


----------



## Whopper80

dataJunkie said:


> Hi again.
> 
> After a bit more playing around here's where I'm at.
> 
> PS4 Pro renders the home page in 4K with passthrough from the AVR. When I open Horizon Zero Dawn, the first Geurilla Logo renders in 4K, and then the screen goes blank before the second Geurilla Logo and then when it comes back, the game is only outputting 1080p. Even if the PS4Pro is hard set to output in 2K, it just stays at 1080 in-game.
> 
> Go back out to the menu screen and we're back at 4K again ... curious.
> 
> Any other PS4 Pro users experience this?
> 
> Switching it up to my PC, and it renders 4K with AVR passthrough, same with NVidia SHield ..
> 
> Just with the Horizon Zero Dawn game for some reason ...
> 
> Any suggestions welcome
> 
> n


You have to turn off the HDR in the ingame settings. That will set the resolution back to 4k.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

seems I will be pulling the trigger for HD fury Linker. Can the owners confirm that this will resolve the PS4 Pro issue of 4K RGB color & HDR at 4K/60? also is there any other benefits expected from the linker? can it strip the HDR info while maintaining BT2020 ?


----------



## elmalloc

rmilyard said:


> I think we could do back about 12 1/5 maybe 13 max. Don't want right against the back wall.


I'm going to have to go within 2" of my back wall. THe vents are in the front. Yeah it seems kind of scary, but if this projector gives me 2 good years I'll be happy. I need 110" so 10'10" is a tight push, I should have never bought a 110"' screen for this room. Never go "as big as you can", always leave wiggle room.


----------



## hatlesschimp

A member asked me too make a video with HDR with "The Last of us" on PS4pro. So here it is.






Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Great video,was you using the HD fury linker?


----------



## bigabit

swyda038 said:


> Do you know how long their return policy is? Did they send you a new one or you just got your money back? Trying to decide between Crutchfield or Amazon to purchase.


I just got my money back. I believe it was 30 days, but I had more time because I happened to buy within the holiday shopping window. When I determined I wanted to do a return I initiated through the website and then called to confirm there would be no restocking fee, etc. The rep was very helpful and said I might as well use the projector while within the window to see if I could not determine a solution to my problem. I was surprised by this suggestion but he even emailed me a confirmation after our phone call.


----------



## bigabit

Oledurt said:


> He calibrated natural for rec709 blu ray. For HDR it put out less lumens than bright cinema.
> 
> Yes I am using Bright Cinema/HDR 1 for UHD. ISF Calibrated.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sorry if you've posted this already but I am curious if the calibration was done with HDMI Video Range set to limited and Super White set to off.

It seems like with that combo I still clip whites a lot even after firmware update but I think I've currently been doing HDMI Video arrange full/expanded which does not.


----------



## Barry7767

HDR does indeed work at 24hz. But only in 1080p for me. Have a look at something like Breaking Bad which is 4K but SDR whilst in 24hz. Is it available in 4K or just HD? I lose all UHD titles in 24hz mode.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ana_moo_ana said:


> seems I will be pulling the trigger for HD fury Linker. Can the owners confirm that this will resolve the PS4 Pro issue of 4K RGB color & HDR at 4K/60? also is there any other benefits expected from the linker? can it strip the HDR info while maintaining BT2020 ?




and feedback is highly appreciated


----------



## elmalloc

Got everything in, time to hook 'em up. Hanging the projector will be the toughest and may not happen for a while because I have to get it within an inch or two of the back wall. Studs are not in the right spot.


----------



## DavidK442

elmalloc said:


> Got everything in, time to hook 'em up. Hanging the projector will be the toughest and may not happen for a while because I have to get it within an inch or two of the back wall. Studs are not in the right spot.


Are you hanging just to get it up, out of the way, or would a shelf mounted a bit further down the wall work?


----------



## rmilyard

Well I got the old projector mount moved back. The new 5040ub is now up. We added few items to theater when messing with this. Added Philips Hue lights and Echo Dot. I need to move the new HTPC done today. Got ASRock BeeBox 7200 to replace 5th Gen Intel i5 NUC. Need to get all programmed into my Harmony Ultimate Home remote. Then never used Echo Dot before so want to learn home to setup for voice commands for Theater.


----------



## DavidK442

hatlesschimp said:


> A member asked me too make a video with HDR with "The Last of us" on PS4pro. So here it is.


A lot of people, including myself, appreciate the effort so please don't take this feedback harshly.
I was hoping to see a clear comparison (flipping back and forth and side by side) between the best SDR & the best HDR setup on your system. What I saw were a bunch of on screen menu adjustments and the difference between HDR 1, 2, 3 & 4. Near the end you briefly showed some edited footage with three side by side screen shots of different setting, but it was only up for a moment and not so easy to make any comparisons. Maybe I just didn't know what I was looking at.
Also I suppose, without HDR video recording capability on your end, or play back on mine, all that will really show are the changes in brightness.
Truly don't mean to grind you for doing something nice, but you did ask for feedback on your video after all.


----------



## elmalloc

*Epson 5040UBE nearly flush mounted*

Got lucky, SLBU Chief bracket is easy to work with. Recessed power on the projector AND the wall saved my ass. Projector is squared and focused away, now to search for settings to use with this thing.

Tried some Zelda Switch on it and it worked, in a very lit room. Not really playable though like that, let's see if the game room does any better.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

elmalloc said:


> Got lucky, SLBU Chief bracket is easy to work with. Recessed power on the projector AND the wall saved my ass. Projector is squared and focused away, now to search for settings to use with this thing.
> 
> Tried some Zelda Switch on it and it worked, in a very lit room. Not really playable though like that, let's see if the game room does any better.


Kewl! Got my 5040 3 days ago. It's still in the box. lol I won't have time to mess with it til Monday. I've got the same mount on the way, except, I chose the 3" pipe, and, I'm going to screw a board up from joist to joist for added support and adjustability. I got a 10' fiber-optic HDMI cable from Monoprice because I want to run HDMI with power cord parallel in same conduit to PJ. My rack sits at middle of wall to the right, right behind the couch, that's why I only need a 10' cable. Anyway, gotta 'git r done' by Monday afternoon, that's when Comcast is coming over to get me hooked up.


----------



## colt9987

Has anyone found any differences between the fine and fast modes?


----------



## flyguyjake

Is there anyway to do a full factory reset on this projector? I've gone in the menu under reset and the lens position will not return to its factory position.


----------



## hatlesschimp

DavidK442 said:


> A lot of people, including myself, appreciate the effort so please don't take this feedback harshly.
> I was hoping to see a clear comparison (flipping back and forth and side by side) between the best SDR & the best HDR setup on your system. What I saw were a bunch of on screen menu adjustments and the difference between HDR 1, 2, 3 & 4. Near the end you briefly showed some edited footage with three side by side screen shots of different setting, but it was only up for a moment and not so easy to make any comparisons. Maybe I just didn't know what I was looking at.
> Also I suppose, without HDR video recording capability on your end, or play back on mine, all that will really show are the changes in brightness.
> Truly don't mean to grind you for doing something nice, but you did ask for feedback on your video after all.


Thanks for the feedback! I like these comments, its the only way I improve the videos. I do tend to get burnt out by towards the end of editing a video and rush a little to get it done. Not sure how I can record in HDR 12bit with my camera. I might be able to less resolution. 
I will try and make another video and have it up in the next 24 hours.


----------



## Oledurt

bigabit said:


> Sorry if you've posted this already but I am curious if the calibration was done with HDMI Video Range set to limited and Super White set to off.
> 
> 
> 
> It seems like with that combo I still clip whites a lot even after firmware update but I think I've currently been doing HDMI Video arrange full/expanded which does not.




Hdmi Range is Normal and Super white is off.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## llooping

Hi guys,

Does anyone have updated our projector with Firmware 1.09 ?

Because, since this update, the quality of the screen is better, BUT, in 3D mode with a movie, the background is just horrible 

Have you the same problem ?

Thx


----------



## philipbtz

Ok so I have the strangest problem with my TW9300 and I hope someone knows something about this.

My setup:
Nvidia Shield (v2) -> Marantz SR5010 -> HD Fury Linker -> TW9300: For the most part OK but occational drop out probably due to my 5 meter long cable from receiver to projector(getting a Monoprice cable soon)
Xbox One S -> Marantz SR5010 -> HD Fury Linker -> TW9300: Here is the problem!

After about 30min or shorter the projector shuts off dead. You can hear the movie is playing in the background so Xbox doesn't freeze or anything. When I turn the projector on again it runs the fan at max speed for about 30 seconds and then starts the projector. Then I wait sometimes 10 min sometimes 30 min and it shuts off again. This ONLY happens from the XBox!(???) I have no idea what it could be. I've tried it without the Linker in the chain, I've tried with both BD and UHD discs, different resolutions etc. I also tried both Digital Cinema and Cinema modes but same thing on both. This just started happening with about 20 hours on the lamp. What is going on? The first 20 hours everything was fine. This happened the first time I was setting up the Linker and playing UHD discs in Digital Cinema mode. Before I was only ever in cinema with BD and Netflix. So I thought maybe it has to do with the Linker but it happens without the Linker as well. Any help is much appreciated!


Edit: I'm running the 1.08 firmware that came with the projector but don't dare to upgrade to 1.09 since I'm not sure how that will affect my warranty as it's not up on any EU site yet. They are still at 1.05!?? Three versionen below what the projector came with. And yes sleep mode is off in the projector and the time is set to 1 min. So even if setting it to off doen't work it should sleep within one minute but it doen't it take 10-30 min.


----------



## eshabtai

db999md said:


> There are above posts one page back that state that after firmware update 1.09 to the projector that Netflix will no longer send HDR to the 5040ub using the nvidia shield 2017.
> I have not found this to be the case - netflix HDR still works after 1.09 update. Remember, you need to lock the shield at 4k/24hz for it to work.


Have you also upgraded the shield to 5.1?
Thanks.


----------



## rjguk

philipbtz said:


> Ok so I have the strangest problem with my TW9300 and I hope someone knows something about this.
> 
> My setup:
> Nvidia Shield (v2) -> Marantz SR5010 -> HD Fury Linker -> TW9300: For the most part OK but occational drop out probably due to my 5 meter long cable from receiver to projector(getting a Monoprice cable soon)
> Xbox One S -> Marantz SR5010 -> HD Fury Linker -> TW9300: Here is the problem!
> 
> After about 30min or shorter the projector shuts off dead. You can hear the movie is playing in the background so Xbox doesn't freeze or anything. When I turn the projector on again it runs the fan at max speed for about 30 seconds and then starts the projector. Then I wait sometimes 10 min sometimes 30 min and it shuts off again. This ONLY happens from the XBox!(???) I have no idea what it could be. I've tried it without the Linker in the chain, I've tried with both BD and UHD discs, different resolutions etc. I also tried both Digital Cinema and Cinema modes but same thing on both. This just started happening with about 20 hours on the lamp. What is going on? The first 20 hours everything was fine. This happened the first time I was setting up the Linker and playing UHD discs in Digital Cinema mode. Before I was only ever in cinema with BD and Netflix. So I thought maybe it has to do with the Linker but it happens without the Linker as well. Any help is much appreciated!
> 
> 
> Edit: I'm running the 1.08 firmware that came with the projector but don't dare to upgrade to 1.09 since I'm not sure how that will affect my warranty as it's not up on any EU site yet. They are still at 1.05!?? Three versionen below what the projector came with. And yes sleep mode is off in the projector and the time is set to 1 min. So even if setting it to off doen't work it should sleep within one minute but it doen't it take 10-30 min.


That's certainly a puzzle. One thing that might be implicated is HDMI control. Is it possible that the Xbox is telling the PJ to go off after a certain time? On the 9300 check whether you've got standby confirmation set, if it isn't set then 'something' that sets it to standby would appear to make it just shut off. If confirmation is on then you'd get a prompt first. You can also check the HDMI control (also known as HDMI link, or CEC) on the Xbox settings, and likewise there is a section in the 9300 settings. This might not be much help but it could possibly be something in that area.

The fan noise is normal, this PJ doesn't do a long cooldown phase when shut down, but if you switch it straight back on it will ramp up the fan as it detects a hot lamp on startup.

Regarding firmware, some Euro countries have posted the 1.09 version. For example, in Spain: http://esupport.epson-europe.com/Pr...002FPL4hMNZFBT2+5UDN2TvVIv0Uamh8QOkU003D&tc=6 (the link with the UK flag, not the one above it). I've always used the US site for firmware, to date those files have been an exact match for the ones that subsequently appear on the other country sites.


----------



## dvdwilly3

I have searched to see if someone has addressed this, but can find nothing.

For those using a Harmony remote with their 5040/6040, can you add a Load Memory step in the Harmony codes?

That is, a button push to Load Memory and then a button push to select whichever profile you want to load?


----------



## seplant

dvdwilly3 said:


> I have searched to see if someone has addressed this, but can find nothing.
> 
> For those using a Harmony remote with their 5040/6040, can you add a Load Memory step in the Harmony codes?
> 
> That is, a button push to Load Memory and then a button push to select whichever profile you want to load?


I don't believe there are discrete codes for any commands other than what is provided on the Epson remote. So while should be able to bring up the Memory menu with a single button on the Harmony, you would still need to select "Load Memory" from that menu and then scroll down to and select whichever of the ten memory slots you want.


----------



## aaranddeeman

seplant said:


> I don't believe there are discrete codes for any commands other than what is provided on the Epson remote. So while should be able to bring up the Memory menu with a single button on the Harmony, you would still need to select "Load Memory" from that menu and then scroll down to and select whichever of the ten memory slots you want.


This.
And also the Load Memory discrete code may not be enough, you actually need the code for each memory slot for accuracy. Because while scrolling (through macro steps), one miss and it will land somewhere else.


----------



## dholmes54

What am I doing wrong,I watched Hacksaw Ridge uhd last night,great movie,I checked what the Epson said he we go 3840x2160 8 bit 420 SDR,scan mode progressive BT 709,input signal component,source HDMI.I could change the SDR to one of HDR which 1&2 looked good.I had my Philips player set to 4k 60p,the movie played fine no drop outs,pq was good except the tunnel sceens I think I could have better pq but I've set something wrong, a little confused by input signal being component.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

hatlesschimp said:


> Thanks for the feedback! I like these comments, its the only way I improve the videos. I do tend to get burnt out by towards the end of editing a video and rush a little to get it done. Not sure how I can record in HDR 12bit with my camera. I might be able to less resolution.
> I will try and make another video and have it up in the next 24 hours.


Thanks, that helped a lot.


----------



## philipbtz

rjguk said:


> That's certainly a puzzle. One thing that might be implicated is HDMI control. Is it possible that the Xbox is telling the PJ to go off after a certain time? On the 9300 check whether you've got standby confirmation set, if it isn't set then 'something' that sets it to standby would appear to make it just shut off. If confirmation is on then you'd get a prompt first. You can also check the HDMI control (also known as HDMI link, or CEC) on the Xbox settings, and likewise there is a section in the 9300 settings. This might not be much help but it could possibly be something in that area.
> 
> The fan noise is normal, this PJ doesn't do a long cooldown phase when shut down, but if you switch it straight back on it will ramp up the fan as it detects a hot lamp on startup.
> 
> Regarding firmware, some Euro countries have posted the 1.09 version. For example, in Spain: http://esupport.epson-europe.com/Pr...002FPL4hMNZFBT2+5UDN2TvVIv0Uamh8QOkU003D&tc=6 (the link with the UK flag, not the one above it). I've always used the US site for firmware, to date those files have been an exact match for the ones that subsequently appear on the other country sites.


THANK YOU! I don't know how I missed the HDMI link setting. I'm like 99% certain this was the problem as I'm played games on the Xbox for over an hour as well as about one hour of an UHD movie. Seems to be resolved. So anyone else using Xbox turn this off if you're having problems! I also installed the 1.09 firmware you linked to and now HDR is MUCH better! I was even using the HDR1 before the update but something with the gamma and colors were off. I dunno what they've done but it looks great in Auto(Bright)! I'm very pleased with this projector now and hopefully none of the shutoff problems will come back


----------



## HarleyRider

Got an X-Rite i1 Display Pro on Friday and spent a good part of Saturday using the AVS HD 709 disk and HCFR to try and calibrate my 5040 to Rec. 709. I used the curtpalme.com tutorial doc for help. I configured bright cinema mode and was able to come pretty close to the xy specs for all the primaries and secondaries except for Cyan. It's close but not perfect, but still a very noticeable improvement. Colors have that "pop" now that I seemed to be missing. I can only imagine how great this 5040 can look when calibrated by a pro who knows what they're doing.

Question for those of you who have done your own 5040 calibration -- can you guide me in setting up a custom gamma curve? Or point me to a resource online? I've spent hours googling but haven't really found anything that explains to me how the Epson custom gamma graph works and how to set it using HCFR. The curtplame.com guide that talks about gamma uses Chromapure software, so I didn't find that much help. What I thought I was supposed to do is display the 10% - 90% IRE patterns and then tune each corresponding point on the gamma graph, but that doesn't seem to be working the way I thought it would. Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## Hummerguyinfl

Because my particular install will require a 40ft HDMI cable, would I be better off purchasing the 5040UBe (wireless version)?


----------



## whmacs

Hummerguyinfl said:


> Because my particular install will require a 40ft HDMI cable, would I be better off purchasing the 5040UBe (wireless version)?


Hi Hummerguyinfl,
I have the 9300W (6040UBe). I've run a 50ft powered HDMI cable to the projector. This works fine, though I only send 1080p 60Hz traffic over that. For all 4K traffic from my Panasonic UB900 I use wireless. This works very well and I've never had a drop out. It does take longer to sync than the HDMI cable, but once synced it is solid. The key with the wireless transmitter is to have it in direct line of sight to the projector.

I should also mention I have a HD Fury Integral between my UB900 and the wireless transmitter to strip out HDR. 

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## Hummerguyinfl

Thanks! I should have mentioned that I will be sending a 4k signal from my Samsung UBD-8500 Blu Ray player.


----------



## aaranddeeman

HarleyRider said:


> Got an X-Rite i1 Display Pro on Friday and spent a good part of Saturday using the AVS HD 709 disk and HCFR to try and calibrate my 5040 to Rec. 709. I used the curtpalme.com tutorial doc for help. I configured bright cinema mode and was able to come pretty close to the xy specs for all the primaries and secondaries except for Cyan. It's close but not perfect, but still a very noticeable improvement. Colors have that "pop" now that I seemed to be missing. I can only imagine how great this 5040 can look when calibrated by a pro who knows what they're doing.
> 
> Question for those of you who have done your own 5040 calibration -- can you guide me in setting up a custom gamma curve? Or point me to a resource online? I've spent hours googling but haven't really found anything that explains to me how the Epson custom gamma graph works and how to set it using HCFR. The curtplame.com guide that talks about gamma uses Chromapure software, so I didn't find that much help. What I thought I was supposed to do is display the 10% - 90% IRE patterns and then tune each corresponding point on the gamma graph, but that doesn't seem to be working the way I thought it would. Any help would be appreciated!


For setting custom gamma curve on Epson (and using HCFR), please get ready for some frustration.
I have few suggestions in general for HCFR 

1. Try using internal patterns from HCFR. That will speed up you process. Make sure though that the reading from disk patterns and the automatic patterns is close.
2. For gamma, I suggest changing only one point at a time, then run the sweep to confirm.
3. While adjusting the gamma you can bring the graph up in the information window, where you can see it real time when changing.
4. Same goes for CMS adjustment, where you will display CIE while you make changes.
5. Any HCFR questions, please post in this thread, preferably with the .chc file, that will make it easier for someone to give you correct advice.
6. Also refer to this thread for instructions.


All the best.


----------



## k3nnis

whmacs said:


> Hi Hummerguyinfl,
> I have the 9300W (6040UBe). I've run a 50ft powered HDMI cable to the projector. This works fine, though I only send 1080p 60Hz traffic over that. For all 4K traffic from my Panasonic UB900 I use wireless. This works very well and I've never had a drop out. It does take longer to sync than the HDMI cable, but once synced it is solid. The key with the wireless transmitter is to have it in direct line of sight to the projector.
> 
> I should also mention I have a HD Fury Integral between my UB900 and the wireless transmitter to strip out HDR.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen




Hi Stephen,

Nice setup. Silly question why do people want to strip out HDR and keep BT2020? Does it look better when using SDR BT2020?

Thanks,
K.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

k3nnis said:


> Hi Stephen,
> 
> Nice setup. Silly question why do people want to strip out HDR and keep BT2020? Does it look better when using SDR BT2020?
> 
> Thanks,
> K.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi K3nnis,
Thanks! as you can see from my website, I don't exactly have a "batcave". I need a bright punchy picture in my room. With HDR enabled I just find the image too dim (compared to say SDR in "natural" mode). Projectors struggle with the required light output for HDR. A typical HDR LCD TV can output 1000 nits. The Epson can do around 100-130 nits (which is good for a projector). Saying that, if you have a "batcave" environment you may have more success. A member in this forum has had his Epson professionally calibrated and is happy with the picture in HDR mode. I'm sure his room is much better light controlled than mine. 

The Panasonic UB900 also have a dynamic range enhancement capability that allows you to manually adjust the range in SDR based on your nit output. This allows me to use BT.2020 SDR with "natural" picture mode and "simulate" HDR without the loss of mid tone brightness. A HDFury Integral or Linker is needed to strip the HDR metadata so the Panasonic sends out a SDR BT.2020 signal.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks Stephen. Have you compared SDR BT2020 vs SDR without BT2020? Can you tell a big difference if you have?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

k3nnis said:


> Thanks Stephen. Have you compared SDR BT2020 vs SDR without BT2020? Can you tell a big difference if you have?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can. 709 looks flat, gray, faded in comparison.


----------



## k3nnis

Oh ok thanks. And is 4k enhancement automatically off when you run a UHD Blu ray?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## corekneelius

rmilyard said:


> I would like to know also. Mine cable had to be 50 feet. I had to run it behind this PVC crown molding we found. My 5040 is coming today.



Do you have pictures you can share of the molding you used? I'm thinking that I will have to something similar due to my builder being...unreasonable...on what he wanted to charge me for a pre wire.

Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

k3nnis said:


> Thanks Stephen. Have you compared SDR BT2020 vs SDR without BT2020? Can you tell a big difference if you have?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi K3nnis,
I have an OPPO-103D and the Panasonic UB900 connected to the 9300W. For streaming compressed 1080p off my NAS, the Darbee processor in the 103D does a better job than the UB900 with sub optimal images i.e a 1080p movie compressed down to 1.8Gb vs 25Gb or so on a blu-ray disk. 

For blu-rays I find the image is better (more "solid", cleaner) if I get the UB900 to upscale it first to 4K then send it to the 9300W as against the Oppo sending out 1080p and letting the 9300W do its thing.

As to BT.2020 vs Rec.709 blu-ray, BT.2020 certainly has more "pop" and depth. What is interesting is that Epson states to get the full P3.DCI colour range you need to set the colour mode to 'cinema' or 'digital cinema'. If you listen you can hear the filter moving into place on the 9300W with these modes. Unfortunately, this has the effect of dimming the image considerably. Once again this may not be too much of an issue if you are in a completely light controller environment. Now what is interesting is that the gentleman I mentioned earlier who had the professional calibration done did say that even without the filter in place and the projector when set to 'natural' or 'bright cinema', was still measuring very close to the P3 DCI colour standard with a BT.2020 signal. So for people like me that find 'digital cinema' too dim, I can still get most of the the P3.DCI colour range from 'Natural' and keep that image "pop" that this mode offers.

Edit: From this post:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread.html#post46403201
Originally Posted by *wbcollegekid*  
_I spoke to one of the senior technical gurus at Epson. Several days ago I alerted them to the fact that the Samsung UBD-8500 was not passing 10 or 12bit, and only Rec709. The guy who I spoke to today said because of that they went and purchased the Xbox One S, Samsung, and Phillips. As I stated yesterday, and now confirmed by Epson, the Phillips is the only player capable of doing 10/12bit. The Rec.2020 is only a container for the P3 color space. The Epson cannot natively do Rec.2020. When the Epson receives HDR, it converts it to the HDR2 preset, which is for P3 color space for the Digital Cinema setting. However, manually switching to HDR1 preset in Bright Cinema mode gives you P3 color space. Bright Cinema mode is best for HDR.The partial 12bit in the manual refers to it dithering 10bit signal to 12bit. Many current TVs that advertise HDR are 8bit that dither to 10bit. All in all, I am very happy with the capabilities of this projector_

If you set the picture mode to bright cinema and HDR1 and you will get the full P3 colour space.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## k3nnis

whmacs said:


> Hi K3nnis,
> I have an OPPO-103D and the Panasonic UB900 connected to the 9300W. For streaming compressed 1080p off my NAS, the Darbee processor in the 103D does a better job than the UB900 with sub optimal images i.e a 1080p movie compressed down to 1.8Gb vs 25Gb or so on a blu-ray disk.
> 
> For blu-rays I find the image is better (more "solid", cleaner) if I get the UB900 to upscale it first to 4K then send it to the 9300W as against the Oppo sending out 1080p and letting the 9300W do its thing.
> 
> As to BT.2020 vs Rec.709 blu-ray, BT.2020 certainly has more "pop" and depth. What is interesting is that Epson states to get the full P3.DCI colour range you need to set the colour mode to 'cinema' or 'digital cinema'. If you listen you can hear the filter moving into place on the 9300W with these modes. Unfortunately, this has the effect of dimming the image considerably. Once again this may not be too much of an issue if you are in a completely light controller environment. Now what is interesting is that the gentleman I mentioned earlier who had the professional calibration done did say that even without the filter in place and the projector when set to 'natural' or 'bright cinema', was still measuring very close to the P3 DCI colour standard with a BT.2020 signal. So for people like me that find 'digital cinema' too dim, I can still get most of the the P3.DCI colour range from 'Natural' and keep that image "pop" that this mode offers.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen




Thanks Stephen. Would like to look at pics of your home theater. Have you got a link?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## flyguyjake

I cannot get the Samsung K8500 to send BT.2020 to the projector. I have an integral and i've tried so many edids without success. I believe the goal resolution is 4K/24 4:2:2 12bit for HDR bt.2020? Anyone know how?

K8500 > Integral > 5040ub


----------



## dev23007

*Ghosting crosstalk during 3d?*

Wanted to know if anyone else had this issue or has this been a known issue? I have the 5040 UB and I am having severe ghosting or crosstalk with 3d movies. At least I think that's what you call it. Blurry background images, double images in almost every other scene. Really tested it out with several people on multiple 3d movies tried setting the 3d depth to 1 and 0. no luck. Running in 3d dynamic high brightness, 120: screen, tested with multiple Epson 3d active glasses. What gives. I don't remember this problem with my 5025UB. But it was not nearly as bright? ANy help would be appreciated!


----------



## cappy83

*Length of Power Cord*

If anyone who owns this projector could tell me how long the power cord is? I have my electrician coming out to route the outlet in the ceiling and he's asking for this info. Thanks


----------



## rmilyard

corekneelius said:


> Do you have pictures you can share of the molding you used? I'm thinking that I will have to something similar due to my builder being...unreasonable...on what he wanted to charge me for a pre wire.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Here is site for molding. This was GREAT stuff!

https://www.racewaycrown.com/


https://www.racewaycrown.com/raceway-video


----------



## ht guy

Hummerguyinfl said:


> Because my particular install will require a 40ft HDMI cable, would I be better off purchasing the 5040UBe (wireless version)?


My cable is a 50' Vanco. No issues with 4k/HDR.


----------



## seplant

dev23007 said:


> Wanted to know if anyone else had this issue or has this been a known issue? I have the 5040 UB and I am having severe ghosting or crosstalk with 3d movies. At least I think that's what you call it. Blurry background images, double images in almost every other scene. Really tested it out with several people on multiple 3d movies tried setting the 3d depth to 1 and 0. no luck. Running in 3d dynamic high brightness, 120: screen, tested with multiple Epson 3d active glasses. What gives. I don't remember this problem with my 5025UB. But it was not nearly as bright? ANy help would be appreciated!


Yes! Several owners have reported crosstalk/ghosting issues in 3D throughout this thread. It seems that some 3D blu-rays are worse than others. Some seem to have no issues at all. I had an Epson 6010 prior to my 6040, and the 6010 never had any issues. 

I sent an email to Epson support to see if they were aware of this issue and if they were working on a solution. Last week I was asked to call their support number and talk to a representative. The person I spoke with was not very knowledgeable and suggested I call back when a higher level support person was available, but I haven't had time to do that yet. I strongly suggest that you contact Epson to make sure they are aware that I am not the only owner seeing these issues.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## whmacs

flyguyjake said:


> I cannot get the Samsung K8500 to send BT.2020 to the projector. I have an integral and i've tried so many edids without success. I believe the goal resolution is 4K/24 4:2:2 12bit for HDR bt.2020? Anyone know how?
> 
> K8500 > Integral > 5040ub


Hi Fltguyjake,
I have my integral set to EDID 10 – 4k60-420 12-bit BT.2020 All Sound
This sends BT2020 SDR to the Epson.
Can you confirm the Samsung is outputting 4k and not 1080p?

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## whmacs

k3nnis said:


> Thanks Stephen. Would like to look at pics of your home theater. Have you got a link?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi K3nnis,
Sorry, I should have linked this in:
http://www.stephenmacmillan.com/ht

I have not had a chance to take pictures with the Epson 9300W. This has replaced the Infocus SP8602 projector in the photos.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## k3nnis

whmacs said:


> Hi K3nnis,
> Sorry, I should have linked this in:
> http://www.stephenmacmillan.com/ht
> 
> I have not had a chance to take pictures with the Epson 9300W. This has replaced the Infocus SP8602 projector in the photos.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen




Thanks  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jeff Gann

I'm new to projectors, and have recently installed the epson 5040ub. Totally in love with this thing. Used it to replace a Panasonic viera tcp65v60. Looking For ideas on where to sell this plasma tv now. Any ideas?

Thanks!!


----------



## flyguyjake

whmacs said:


> Hi Fltguyjake,
> I have my integral set to EDID 10 – 4k60-420 12-bit BT.2020 All Sound
> This sends BT2020 SDR to the Epson.
> Can you confirm the Samsung is outputting 4k and not 1080p?
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


Hi Stephen, 
What is your setup path? EDID 10 doesn't work for me. I get No Signal on the Epson. I can see the output of the Samsung via the Win Integral GUI and yes it's always trying to output 4K60fps 4:2:0 12-Bit which is 450 MHz. Too high for he Epson.


----------



## hatlesschimp

seplant said:


> Yes! Several owners have reported crosstalk/ghosting issues in 3D throughout this thread. It seems that some 3D blu-rays are worse than others. Some seem to have no issues at all. I had an Epson 6010 prior to my 6040, and the 6010 never had any issues.
> 
> I sent an email to Epson support to see if they were aware of this issue and if they were working on a solution. Last week I was asked to call their support number and talk to a representative. The person I spoke with was not very knowledgeable and suggested I call back when a higher level support person was available, but I haven't had time to do that yet. I strongly suggest that you contact Epson to make sure they are aware that I am not the only owner seeing these issues.


Its amazing how bad the technical support is for some companies.

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

flyguyjake said:


> Hi Stephen,
> What is your setup path? EDID 10 doesn't work for me. I get No Signal on the Epson. I can see the output of the Samsung via the Win Integral GUI and yes it's always trying to output 4K60fps 4:2:0 12-Bit which is 450 MHz. Too high for he Epson.


Hi Flyguyjake,
My path is Panasonic UB900 -> Integral -> Epson Wireless transmitter.
I know the wireless transmitter has more bandwidth than the hdmi ports, so maybe that's why my setup is working.

Have you tried using Automix on the Integral? This should allow the Integral to negotiate a setting that is compatible with both the Samsung and the Epson.

Also could you check on the Samsung that resolution is set to auto, movie frame is auto, hdmi colour format is auto and deep colour is off?

I also found this comment on the first page of this thread under "***Known Issues***":
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread.html#post46403201
*The Samsung UBD-8500 does not pass 10 or 12bit, and only Rec709. Waiting on firmware update. 
*I think Samsung have released a firmware update that addresses this? Could you check that you are running the latest firmware on your UBD-8500? From what I can see the latest is version 1009.1.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Am I missing much with my PS4 Pro not having RGB color? Im thinking of getting Linker for this but not sure it's worth it


----------



## v8maro

I have a 50' media bridge. No issues with 4k hdr either


----------



## elmalloc

k3nnis said:


> Oh ok thanks. And is 4k enhancement automatically off when you run a UHD Blu ray?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not on my Philips + Epson combo, enhancement is on whatever setting it was prior.


----------



## elmalloc

Jeff Gann said:


> I'm new to projectors, and have recently installed the epson 5040ub. Totally in love with this thing. Used it to replace a Panasonic viera tcp65v60. Looking For ideas on where to sell this plasma tv now. Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks!!


I always move a TV to another room (bedroom?) before considering getting rid of it. It's really too old, I haul it to a junkyard for recycling (free).

If its input lag is low (check on displaylag.com), you can turn it into a retro gaming TV (find an NES Classic and hook it up in some other area of the house). 

I still have a 720p plasma in a bedroom that plays original Gamecube (component), NES (HDMI modded), and SNES (RGB SCART to HDMI) games.


----------



## elmalloc

cappy83 said:


> If anyone who owns this projector could tell me how long the power cord is? I have my electrician coming out to route the outlet in the ceiling and he's asking for this info. Thanks


I remember rolling up a lot of it and velcro tying it. According to Crutchfield, it's 57" long (*almost 5ft*). Sounds about right.


----------



## HarleyRider

aaranddeeman said:


> For setting custom gamma curve on Epson (and using HCFR), please get ready for some frustration.
> I have few suggestions in general for HCFR
> 
> 1. Try using internal patterns from HCFR. That will speed up you process. Make sure though that the reading from disk patterns and the automatic patterns is close.
> 2. For gamma, I suggest changing only one point at a time, then run the sweep to confirm.
> 3. While adjusting the gamma you can bring the graph up in the information window, where you can see it real time when changing.
> 4. Same goes for CMS adjustment, where you will display CIE while you make changes.
> 5. Any HCFR questions, please post in this thread, preferably with the .chc file, that will make it easier for someone to give you correct advice.
> 6. Also refer to this thread for instructions.
> 
> 
> All the best.


aaranddeeman, thanks for the info and the tips. I really appreciate it. I had found the HCFR thread but hadn't run across the other thread you linked. That looks like it'll be very helpful. Thanks for that!


----------



## njbrodeur87

*Please help with few questions*

Can someone help me out? Recently bought the Denon x3300W and need to know a couple of things. GOing to be buying this projector in the next week or so. Currently have xbox one s and ps4 pro.

From what i understand PS4 pro with 4k hdr will work just fine with the 4k and hdr correct? 

Xbox one S apprently has an issue with HDR support on here, so im planning to use this just for 4k upscaled games, which i hear is no issue just HDR is.

Will also buy a samsung 8500 4k to play 4k discs, this also works with 4k and hdr with no issues as well correct?

Last question, what is the linker i kep reading about and what does it do and how do you connect it?

Appreciate it all


----------



## dholmes54

dholmes54 said:


> What am I doing wrong,I watched Hacksaw Ridge uhd last night,great movie,I checked what the Epson said he we go 3840x2160 8 bit 420 SDR,scan mode progressive BT 709,input signal component,source HDMI.I could change the SDR to one of HDR which 1&2 looked good.I had my Philips player set to 4k 60p,the movie played fine no drop outs,pq was good except the tunnel sceens I think I could have better pq but I've set something wrong, a little confused by input signal being component.


Hello,sorry to be aggravating but has anyone figured out what I'm during wrong, mainly why I'm only getting 8 bit & why input signal says component thxs


----------



## SALadder22FF

I've noticed random flashing lines recently. anyone have this issue? Not sure if it's directv or the epson. Horizontal flash of a line and vertical. not sure what is causing it.


----------



## welldun

This might seem obvious to some, but for those of you using a UHD player but not getting a 4k signal at the projector, if you are using an AVR then make sure that it is not downscaling the signal from the UHD player. I remember this happening to me when I tested the Samsung K8500 UHD player, my AVR was set to convert the signal into that INPUT to 1080p. So in this case it downscaled the signal from 4k to 1080p. A quick change back to PURE (passthrough) got it working properly again.


----------



## dholmes54

I double checked my avr a Yamaha 2050 and I've got it set to direct no inhanchment no processing I thought that was the way to do it but it still doesn't help my problem maybe I've got my uhd player set wrong


----------



## seewolf

Has anyone set this up on a cinemascope screen and then masked the sides of the screen for 16:9? I'm thinking about setting up this way once I get my theater completed. My thinking is that I'd like the bigger screen for a more immersive movie experience and can cut the sides off for sports so I don't get a sore neck watching sports.

As always - if this question has been answered to death - please forgive me. I tried to search through the thread but couldn't find a direct answer.


----------



## whmacs

dholmes54 said:


> I double checked my avr a Yamaha 2050 and I've got it set to direct no inhanchment no processing I thought that was the way to do it but it still doesn't help my problem maybe I've got my uhd player set wrong


Hi Dholmes54,
Go into advanced setup on the Yamaha (press the power button when holding down the 'straight' button) and change the 4K mode from mode 2 to mode 1. Mode 2 is limited to 4.2.0 8 bit while mode 1 can do up to 4.4.4. For more details see the Advanced setup in the 2050 owners manual. Mode 2 is the default setting out of the box.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs I'll try that.


----------



## Don Draper

I got my unit today, and haven't done any calibration outside of preset combos. This thread is huge and really hard to follow. Thanks to this thread I purchased the philips player. I popped in the revenant for a look at the dreaded HDR performance. I could not be anymore pleased. Bright cinema and HDR1 was almost too bright - and i run the lamp on eco. I cant see how I would want any brighter or sharper. Im coming from a 5010 and in dedicated light tight space. Based on some comments here and some reviews out there I almost decided to wait out till the summer and even considered shelling out for true 4k. I'm glad I didn't. Now time to go calibrate.


----------



## k3nnis

Anyone here running 100" screen with the Epson? I know 100" is on the small side but I will only have space for a 110" or 100" due to room size/throw distance. Seating will be 11 feet from eye to screen


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

k3nnis said:


> Anyone here running 100" screen with the Epson? I know 100" is on the small side but I will only have space for a 110" or 100" due to room size/throw distance. Seating will be 11 feet from eye to screen
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm running 105" Elite Cinegrey 5d. PJ is 12' away. Looks amazing!


----------



## k3nnis

Evan201 said:


> I'm running 105" Elite Cinegrey 5d. PJ is 12' away. Looks amazing!




Nice  got pics of your room?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cchrono

Anybody have any ideas on blurry jittery scrolling on sports and news channels.


----------



## spirithockey79

dholmes54 said:


> Hello,sorry to be aggravating but has anyone figured out what I'm during wrong, mainly why I'm only getting 8 bit & why input signal says component thxs




IIRC, even with HDMI the info section in the Epson setting menu will say component. You aren't doing anhthimg wrong. For the 8bit, this is what the bluray is mastered at so your player is just passing that to the Epson. Don't remember what player you have but some of them let you change the video output settings. The Epson will support 4:2:2 12bit for UHD and 4:4:4 12 bit for 1080p bluray.


----------



## spirithockey79

k3nnis said:


> Anyone here running 100" screen with the Epson? I know 100" is on the small side but I will only have space for a 110" or 100" due to room size/throw distance. Seating will be 11 feet from eye to screen
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I have a 110" scope screen and have the pj mounted at about 11'6" (closest I can go) and sit about 9ft away. It's awesome


----------



## darkangelism

i really want to buy this while it is on sale, but it blows my budget for audio.


----------



## k3nnis

spirithockey79 said:


> I have a 110" scope screen and have the pj mounted at about 11'6" (closest I can go) and sit about 9ft away. It's awesome




Ok thanks. If you went with 100" do you think at your distance will feel too small?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

seewolf said:


> Has anyone set this up on a cinemascope screen and then masked the sides of the screen for 16:9? I'm thinking about setting up this way once I get my theater completed. My thinking is that I'd like the bigger screen for a more immersive movie experience and can cut the sides off for sports so I don't get a sore neck watching sports.
> 
> 
> 
> As always - if this question has been answered to death - please forgive me. I tried to search through the thread but couldn't find a direct answer.




Yes. I have a 110" 2.35 screen and have masking panels for the sides. I used to have a 92" 16x9 screen and now with the scope screen my 16x9 picture is 88". I wish I could have gone a little bigger but I'm at the closest mount possible so couldn't zoom out any further. Keep in mind though that when watching movies filmed in 1.78 or 1.85 (there are still a lot of them) you I'll have the same picture as with sports/16x9 HDTV, so the masking panels would be needed unless you don't mind the vertical bars. If I were you I would go as wide as your setup will allow.

There are some that prefer to go the biggest possible 16x9 screen and then mask the top/bottom when watching scope movies. Sometimes I wish I would have done this, but there's also the argument that scope movies are intended to be larger scale than 16x9 --- but I'm sure there are other threads for that argument!


----------



## spirithockey79

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks. If you went with 100" do you think at your distance will feel too small?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Do you have the screen yet? If not I would urge you to go as big as you can with how you are able to mount it and sit. At 11ft seating you should be perfectly fine with a 110", but I do think that 11ft with a 100" screen might be a bit far away. Although on my previous 92" 16x9 screen I had my seating back to about 11ft and at the time thought it was fine. After changing to scope screen and reading suggestions to sit closer I tried it and am very happy. Not sure if this answers your question.


----------



## k3nnis

spirithockey79 said:


> Do you have the screen yet? If not I would urge you to go as big as you can with how you are able to mount it and sit. At 11ft seating you should be perfectly fine with a 110", but I do think that 11ft with a 100" screen might be a bit far away. Although on my previous 92" 16x9 screen I had my seating back to about 11ft and at the time thought it was fine. After changing to scope screen and reading suggestions to sit closer I tried it and am very happy. Not sure if this answers your question.




Ok thanks. The place I want to get the projector and screen from comes with pj and screen package. And they install it too. So I need to get it in a package to get a discount. I wonder if they will let me open up the projector and test it before getting them to come and install.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

k3nnis said:


> Anyone here running 100" screen with the Epson? I know 100" is on the small side but I will only have space for a 110" or 100" due to room size/throw distance. Seating will be 11 feet from eye to screen
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm running a 100" elite screens spectrum. From eyes to screen is 8-9 feet.


----------



## flyguyjake

whmacs said:


> Hi Fltguyjake,
> I have my integral set to EDID 10 – 4k60-420 12-bit BT.2020 All Sound
> This sends BT2020 SDR to the Epson.
> Can you confirm the Samsung is outputting 4k and not 1080p?
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


If I use EDID 10 the K8500 outputs 4K60 4:2:0 8bit HDR no BT.2020

I've tried every EDID on the Integral and cannot force the Samsung to output 4K24 4:2:2 12bit BT.2020 to the Epson. I also have an Oppo so I hooked that up and since I can select so many options in the setup menu I was able to quickly get 4K24 4:2:2 12bit Bt.2020 HDR to the Epson. I'm just going to return the K8500 and call it a day.


----------



## seewolf

spirithockey79 said:


> Yes. I have a 110" 2.35 screen and have masking panels for the sides. I used to have a 92" 16x9 screen and now with the scope screen my 16x9 picture is 88". I wish I could have gone a little bigger but I'm at the closest mount possible so couldn't zoom out any further. Keep in mind though that when watching movies filmed in 1.78 or 1.85 (there are still a lot of them) you I'll have the same picture as with sports/16x9 HDTV, so the masking panels would be needed unless you don't mind the vertical bars. If I were you I would go as wide as your setup will allow.
> 
> There are some that prefer to go the biggest possible 16x9 screen and then mask the top/bottom when watching scope movies. Sometimes I wish I would have done this, but there's also the argument that scope movies are intended to be larger scale than 16x9 --- but I'm sure there are other threads for that argument!


There are a few reasons I think I would prefer this setup. I think the room will be 60% movies, and 20% each tv and gaming. Going as wide as possible is definitely the plan. I still remember my wife criticizing the first HDTV we bought saying that 58" was too big. I told her I can still see wall around it so it's obviously not too big!

How well do the presets work for you when switching back and forth between the aspect ratios? I'm assuming it's pretty bulletproof but appreciate anything you can share you feel might be relevant.


----------



## k3nnis

bluer101 said:


> I'm running a 100" elite screens spectrum. From eyes to screen is 8-9 feet.




Ok thanks looks like I need 110" 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

flyguyjake said:


> If I use EDID 10 the K8500 outputs 4K60 4:2:0 8bit HDR no BT.2020
> 
> I've tried every EDID on the Integral and cannot force the Samsung to output 4K24 4:2:2 12bit BT.2020 to the Epson. I also have an Oppo so I hooked that up and since I can select so many options in the setup menu I was able to quickly get 4K24 4:2:2 12bit Bt.2020 HDR to the Epson. I'm just going to return the K8500 and call it a day.


Hi Flyguyjake,
Did you check the firmware version on the K8500? But as you say, the Oppo is a superior player over the Samsung. 

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## spirithockey79

seewolf said:


> There are a few reasons I think I would prefer this setup. I think the room will be 60% movies, and 20% each tv and gaming. Going as wide as possible is definitely the plan. I still remember my wife criticizing the first HDTV we bought saying that 58" was too big. I told her I can still see wall around it so it's obviously not too big!
> 
> 
> 
> How well do the presets work for you when switching back and forth between the aspect ratios? I'm assuming it's pretty bulletproof but appreciate anything you can share you feel might be relevant.




Presets for lens auto shift, zoom and focus work great. If you search this thread there's some detail on how to make your changes so the memory will work properly (something like ensuring your moving at least 10 clicks in a given direction), but I've never had an issue. When your shifting up/down/left/right sometimes it can take 10 clicks to get the shift to start, but you can hear it when it kicks in.


----------



## little_donkey

To get the full P3.DCI colour range you need to put the color mode to cinema or bright cinema. I can hear the filter moving in place with cinema but with bright cinema there is no noise. So it doesn't use any filter. Or am I wrong? 

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


----------



## Holy Sith

little_donkey said:


> To get the full P3.DCI colour range you need to put the color mode to cinema or bright cinema. I can hear the filter moving in place with cinema but with bright cinema there is no noise. So it doesn't use any filter. Or am I wrong?


I think the filter is only used for Cinema and Digital Cinema mode


----------



## Holy Sith

dholmes54 said:


> Hello,sorry to be aggravating but has anyone figured out what I'm during wrong, mainly why I'm only getting 8 bit & why input signal says component thxs


Hi dholmes,
Your issue might be related to the 60hz setting you mentioned in your Philips player. As far as I know, we can only get 4k BT2020 10bit HDR up to 30hz with this projector (due to the much discussed hdmi chipset limitation). Try setting your Philips to output 4k/24p and I guess you should have more luck getting BT2020 colour and HDR. Your projector will then switch to HDR2 automatically but you can manually switch it to HDR1 if HDR2 is too dim for you (unless you already have the latest FW and changed the default to HDR1).


----------



## elmalloc

darkangelism said:


> i really want to buy this while it is on sale, but it blows my budget for audio.


I've gone back and forth between being an audiophile and videophile (both/etc). When having a proper projector setup I decided I'm more of a videophile.


----------



## elmalloc

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks looks like I need 110"
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm running a 110" 16x9 screen innovations zero edge with the Epson from 10'10" back. It's very bright, but still barely not bright enough in HDR1 with high power lamp on to do HDR correctly.

Otherwise, it's still so bright that it gets a minor hotspotting issue. I think calculator says it's throwing 52Ftl. Image enhancement definitely has a difference in sharpness, 4K on high quality BD transfers (bond, jurassic world) look good.


----------



## njbrodeur87

njbrodeur87 said:


> Can someone help me out? Recently bought the Denon x3300W and need to know a couple of things. GOing to be buying this projector in the next week or so. Currently have xbox one s and ps4 pro.
> 
> From what i understand PS4 pro with 4k hdr will work just fine with the 4k and hdr correct?
> 
> Xbox one S apprently has an issue with HDR support on here, so im planning to use this just for 4k upscaled games, which i hear is no issue just HDR is.
> 
> Will also buy a samsung 8500 4k to play 4k discs, this also works with 4k and hdr with no issues as well correct?
> 
> Last question, what is the linker i kep reading about and what does it do and how do you connect it?
> 
> Appreciate it all


Can someone assist me with my above post with answers on this?


----------



## rmilyard

*Epson 5040ub and Kodi*

I am sure been asked before but not having luck finding info.

I have an Intel NUC that can display 4k content. It goes from NUC to Denon AVR-X6200 then to my Epson 5040ub projector. All are HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2.

So I just got this new projector so looking at how best to setup Kodi and the projector. Since in past I couldn't do 4k content I have limited content and knowledge as to how would be best to setup.

I know the projector can upscale all to 4K. Right now inside Kodi I have it setup display GUI @ 1920x1080p but projector always shows at 4K. When I play any movie it is always at 4K. Wouldn't it be best to display at true res? I do have the setting adjust display refresh rate set to start/stop. Now when I play TV Shows the res seems to match the file. The projector changes the res.

So I guess it's hard for me to know if the playing content is in 4k or just upscale. I have one movie (The Revenant) I know is UHD but since always playing at 4K I am not sure if getting true or upscale.

Any if this Epson and Kodi that can share/help settings that would be GREAT!


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs Holy Sith I also been told my Yamaha 2050 set wrong,that's why its showing input signal as component.


----------



## welldun

k3nnis said:


> Anyone here running 100" screen with the Epson? I know 100" is on the small side but I will only have space for a 110" or 100" due to room size/throw distance. Seating will be 11 feet from eye to screen
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


100 inch Elite Screens Aeon Series Edge Free is the biggest in could fit in my setup since any bigger would force me to position the screen lower and the back row would not be able to see the bottom of the screen without obstruction from the front row of seats. 
my front row is at about 10.5 feet from the screen while the back row is at around 14 feet. overall it works very nicely in the room.


----------



## little_donkey

Holy Sith said:


> I think the filter is only used for Cinema and Digital Cinema mode


But there is no grinding noise when I put in digital cinema. Only with the cinema mode

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

little_donkey said:


> But there is no grinding noise when I put in digital cinema. Only with the cinema mode
> 
> Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


Try going from Natural to Digital Cinema. You should hear the noise.


----------



## Evan201

Sorry if this has been covered, 

Can anyone suggest the best step by step process for pairing Samsung SSG-3300GR glasses to the Epson. 

Fully charge first with projector off? 
Projector on projecting 3D while glasses are charging. When glasses are done charging to full, immediately pair with the projector already on projecting 3d? 

I've heard of some pairing issues and I want to avoid that when my glasses get delivered tomorrow along with the Avatar + Titanic 3d disc.


----------



## whmacs

njbrodeur87 said:


> Can someone help me out? Recently bought the Denon x3300W and need to know a couple of things. GOing to be buying this projector in the next week or so. Currently have xbox one s and ps4 pro.
> 
> From what i understand PS4 pro with 4k hdr will work just fine with the 4k and hdr correct?
> 
> Xbox one S apprently has an issue with HDR support on here, so im planning to use this just for 4k upscaled games, which i hear is no issue just HDR is.
> 
> Will also buy a samsung 8500 4k to play 4k discs, this also works with 4k and hdr with no issues as well correct?
> 
> Last question, what is the linker i kep reading about and what does it do and how do you connect it?
> 
> Appreciate it all
> 
> Can someone assist me with my above post with answers on this?


Hi Rjbrodeur87,
I have only run the PS4 Pro at 1080p Rec709 on my Epson. However, Hattlesschimp has made some excellent videos that should help with your questions:


Comparing the PS4 Pro to the Xbox one on the Epson


The PS4 Pro and the Epson 


HDR gaming with the PS4 Pro on the Epson
















Until a patch is released by Microsoft, the Xbox One can't do HDR on the Epson.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## njbrodeur87

thankyou for those , After watching those it seems PS4 Pro in 4K HDR is not possible ( though 4k gaming is fine ), am i correct? Only 1080P HDR works.

Xbox one S : 4k Works but No hdr support at all in games or bluerays.

So since i need a UHD player, does samsung 8500 work with no issues in hdr?

Also someone please expalin the purpose of the HD Linker and how it works and gets connected.


----------



## k3nnis

elmalloc said:


> I'm running a 110" 16x9 screen innovations zero edge with the Epson from 10'10" back. It's very bright, but still barely not bright enough in HDR1 with high power lamp on to do HDR correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, it's still so bright that it gets a minor hotspotting issue. I think calculator says it's throwing 52Ftl. Image enhancement definitely has a difference in sharpness, 4K on high quality BD transfers (bond, jurassic world) look good.




Thanks you got pics of your setup?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

welldun said:


> 100 inch Elite Screens Aeon Series Edge Free is the biggest in could fit in my setup since any bigger would force me to position the screen lower and the back row would not be able to see the bottom of the screen without obstruction from the front row of seats.
> 
> my front row is at about 10.5 feet from the screen while the back row is at around 14 feet. overall it works very nicely in the room.




Thanks. Would love to see your setup pics 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

I'll take some pictures tonight to post up.


----------



## welldun

Evan201 said:


> Sorry if this has been covered,
> 
> Can anyone suggest the best step by step process for pairing Samsung SSG-3300GR glasses to the Epson.
> 
> Fully charge first with projector off?
> Projector on projecting 3D while glasses are charging. When glasses are done charging to full, immediately pair with the projector already on projecting 3d?
> 
> I've heard of some pairing issues and I want to avoid that when my glasses get delivered tomorrow along with the Avatar + Titanic 3d disc.


For me once I charge the glasses, I stand close to the projector and hold the button on the side of the glasses that allows for them to link up. You will get a message on the screen saying that the glasses are paired. Also be warned it might say that the battery is at 0% but that's probably an Epson/ Samsung thing. As long as you know that they are charged you will have no problems enjoying the movie with them. Once you play a movie that's 3D you also get a warning on the screen giving you the option to select the 3D version of the movie. put your glasses on and once the movie starts to play the glasses will automatically turn on so you can enjoy the movie.


----------



## welldun

k3nnis said:


> Thanks. Would love to see your setup pics
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


here ya go!


----------



## k3nnis

Nice I like it 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

Thanks.
As you can see from the pics, due to the angle of the side walls, the 100 is the biggest I could use in the room without sacrificing the view from the rear seats. If I go bigger than 100 inch then the screen would have to sit much lower. 

however, for the size of the room it works just fine. 

P.s. for those those wondering where the center channel speaker is, its sitting above the screen.

Next change in the room will probably be adding a black carpet, and I might finish the ceiling and and angle side walls in the same black that I used in the front section where the screen is.


----------



## casino187

Does anyone use a Himedia Q10 Pro for playing their movie collection? I'm curious which output settings you use?


----------



## sddp

welldun said:


> Thanks.
> As you can see from the pics, due to the angle of the side walls, the 100 is the biggest I could use in the room without sacrificing the view from the rear seats. If I go bigger than 100 inch then the screen would have to sit much lower.
> 
> however, for the size of the room it works just fine.
> 
> P.s. for those those wondering where the center channel speaker is, its sitting above the screen.
> 
> Next change in the room will probably be adding a black carpet, and I might finish the ceiling and and angle side walls in the same black that I used in the front section where the screen is.



Awesome theater room!


Although I can see the conundrum. 100" w/Epson 5040 is like having a Sport Car but only being able to driver it around in alley.


I went 150" Elite Screen Aeon and kind of regret it, since I have room to go up 180" which is their next step up. 


I am thinking maybe a larger curved might fit in there with out having to lower the screen?


----------



## welldun

sddp said:


> Awesome theater room!
> 
> 
> Although I can see the conundrum. 100" w/Epson 5040 is like having a Sport Car but only being able to driver it around in alley.
> 
> 
> I went 150" Elite Screen Aeon and kind of regret it, since I have room to go up 180" which is their next step up.
> 
> 
> I am thinking maybe a larger curved might fit in there with out having to lower the screen?


Thanks. I actually built that theater room back in 2007. We bought the house in 2006 and the family that we bought it from, originally used that room for their kids. Since I didn't have kids at that time, I converted it to a theater room and setup an Epson TW-700 ( the European version of the 810). I also built a screen which you can see in my avatar. that screen had a 91 inch view-able area and a big border. So this 100 inch is like an upgrade. 
The seating distance is also key to the perceived size, so at my distances it feels as big as the 125 inch that we have at my brother-in-laws house.


A curved screen would need to be floated and would interfere with the speakers which were a challenge themselves since I had to make sure that the atmos speakers were properly placed in order to get the height effect.


----------



## whmacs

njbrodeur87 said:


> thankyou for those , After watching those it seems PS4 Pro in 4K HDR is not possible ( though 4k gaming is fine ), am i correct? Only 1080P HDR works.
> 
> Xbox one S : 4k Works but No hdr support at all in games or bluerays.
> 
> So since i need a UHD player, does samsung 8500 work with no issues in hdr?
> 
> Also someone please expalin the purpose of the HD Linker and how it works and gets connected.


Hi Njbrodeur87,
For a 4K blu-ray player (the below is from the front page of this thread):

*Samsung K8500 4K Blu-ray Player & Xbox One S*
• Both convert Blu-rays to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec709 which Epson can support
• HDR movies with Rec2020 color are reduced to Rec709, so HDR is stripped
• The resulting image for HDR movies generally appears too dark on the Epson

*Phillips, Panasonic, Oppo (hopefully)
*• Each convert the signal to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8-bit Rec 709 which the Epson supports
• HDR movies with Rec 2020 color are converted to 4k24 / 4:2:2 / 12-bit Rec2020 which the Epson supports
• The resulting image generally appears appropriate other than the Epson not having enough lumens to display HDR as intended

A Philips, Panasonic or Oppo is a better bet.

Also from the first post in this thread:

*Gaming (PCs, 4k games on PS4 Pro & Xbox Scorpio)*• The Epson’s HDMI chipset (10 GBPS limitation) will only accept 4k60 at 4:2:0 / 8-bit color
• It is unknown whether these gaming devices will send 4k signals in this format. If for example they send the signal as 4k60 / 4:4:4 / 10-bit, the signal will fail or be downgraded to 4k60 / 4:2:0 / 8-bit color 
• Either way, 4:4:4 will get downgraded to 4:2:0 and/or color will be downgraded to 8-bit (non-HDR) assuming the source was HDR to begin with.

The one caveat is this applies to the wired HDMI port. The wireless Epson (6040ube / 9300W) does have a higher bandwidth, but I'm not sure what it is (the manual is unclear). I have the 9300W, so when I get a change I will try a PS4 pro to see how far I can push it over wireless.

*Linker and Integral*
A HDFury Linker or Integral is a device you put between your source and projector. It generates EDID data for the source to tailor the display features you require. For example, when you play a 4k UHD disc the Epson will display HDR if you like it or not because its EDID data tells the 4K blu-ray player that it supports HDR. 

Projectors aren't great with HDR as they are simply not as bright as an LCD TV. By using a linker or Integral you can trick the blu-ray player into thinking the projector does not support HDR, so instead it will send a 4K SDR, BT.2020 signal. So in effect you are stripping the HDR and getting a much brighter image while still maintaining 4K BT.2020. 

The linker can do scaling, while the integral can do switching and has the Blu-tooth control.
https://www.hdfury.com/comparison/

I have the Integral and is does a great job of removing HDR. It sits between my Panasonic UB900 and Epson. The Integral is controlled by a Blu-tooth app on your smart phone so it is easy to turn HDR on our off for comparison.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## k3nnis

welldun said:


> Thanks.
> 
> As you can see from the pics, due to the angle of the side walls, the 100 is the biggest I could use in the room without sacrificing the view from the rear seats. If I go bigger than 100 inch then the screen would have to sit much lower.
> 
> 
> 
> however, for the size of the room it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> P.s. for those those wondering where the center channel speaker is, its sitting above the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Next change in the room will probably be adding a black carpet, and I might finish the ceiling and and angle side walls in the same black that I used in the front section where the screen is.




How high off the ground is the screen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

whmacs said:


> Projectors aren't great with HDR as they are simply not as bright as an LCD TV. By using a linker or Integral you can trick the blu-ray player into thinking the projector does not support HDR, so instead it will send a 4K SDR, BT.2020 signal. So in effect you are stripping the HDR and getting a much brighter image while still maintaining 4K BT.2020.
> 
> The linker can do scaling, while the integral can do switching and has the Blu-tooth control.
> https://www.hdfury.com/comparison/
> 
> I have the Integral and is does a great job of removing HDR. It sits between my Panasonic UB900 and Epson. The Integral is controlled by a Blu-tooth app on your smart phone so it is easy to turn HDR on our off for comparison.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen




Thanks for the explanation. So when you say the Linker/Integral does a great job of removing HDR. How does that benefit you vs. not stripping HDR?
I guess what I am asking is what is the noticeable difference that makes it worth it?




Thanks


----------



## welldun

k3nnis said:


> How high off the ground is the screen?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The screen is 23 and a half inches from the floor.


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to work out for myself the best position comparing to the level of the eye when seated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

k3nnis said:


> Thanks for the info. I'm trying to work out for myself the best position comparing to the level of the eye when seated
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here's a link to an old online article that has good info on determining the height of the screen and distance among other things.http://www.hometoys.com/article/2002/06/projection-screens-101-how-big/1747/


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

Doesn't the Epson strip HDR natively in the signal settings? Why add a $200 linker just for that?


----------



## whmacs

sddp said:


> Thanks for the explanation. So when you say the Linker/Integral does a great job of removing HDR. How does that benefit you vs. not stripping HDR?
> I guess what I am asking is what is the noticeable difference that makes it worth it?
> Thanks


Hi Sddp,
There is a large difference in brightness of the picture (HDR vs SDR). I don't have a light controlled room, and I like a bright punchy image, so I find HDR on the Epson a bit dim. It's personal choice, if you have a light controlled environment you may be happy with HDR mode 1.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## whmacs

Evan201 said:


> Doesn't the Epson strip HDR natively in the signal settings? Why add a $200 linker just for that?


Hi Evan201,
I'm not aware of how to do that on the Epson without losing BT.2020 also.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## Evan201

whmacs said:


> Hi Evan201,
> I'm not aware of how to do that on the Epson without losing BT.2020 also.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


Aren't they two separate settings in the "signal" menu? Does stripping HDR from a UHD disk also default take away BT2020 if done in the PJ natively? I have a philips player coming monday. Won't be able to test that until then, but thought they worked independently in the settings.


----------



## whmacs

Evan201 said:


> Aren't they two separate settings in the "signal" menu? Does stripping HDR from a UHD disk also default take away BT2020 if done in the PJ natively? I have a philips player coming monday. Won't be able to test that until then, but thought they worked independently in the settings.


Hi Evan201,
I might be wrong. In one area of the signals menu you can select rec709 or Bt2020. In the HDR menu you can select the various HDR modes or SDR. I may be incorrect and you don't loose bt.2020, but if you set the HDR mode to SDR and you are receiving a HDR signal from your blu-ray player it messes with the brightness and colours. I have not tried this myself, only what I've read here and in reviews.

Saying that, I gave HDR mode 1 and bright cinema another go tonight with various UHD blu-rays (life of Pi, Kingsmen, Pacific Rim, and Mad Max) and I was actually pretty impressed with the results. Not as dark as I remember before I upgraded to v109. The image was very watchable in my non light controlled room at night.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## aaranddeeman

Evan201 said:


> Doesn't the Epson strip HDR natively in the signal settings? Why add a $200 linker just for that?


No it doesn't. IMHO. That switching of color space is some weird processing it internally does.
If it really did strip HDR and maintained BT.2020, then this option should be greyed out when you play normal blu ray. And which is not the case.


----------



## njbrodeur87

thanks for the help, ill be getting the Phillips player which im assuming is the one being referred to:

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-BDP7...01FWKIGFS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

So ill be set for watching movies. For PS4 pro and xbox one s , at least for now, guess were all stuck with no HDR on either for 4k, unless i go down to 1080p on ps4 pro and then hdr works on it.


----------



## covsound1

update 109 gives you the option to strip hdr. you will get bt2020 when you select sdr when playing playing 4k hdr. brightness the only adjustment as it has come down about 10 stops. this works in all modes also enhancements has been improved in 4k modes 2 and 4 give you the least ringing as now mode 4 is now my go to enhancement mode for 4k.


----------



## migsta

*6040UB & Harmony Elite*

Anybody successfully setup the Harmony Elite to just turn ON/OFF the 6040UB with an activity.

Apparently, the Harmony Elite remote (not the iOS app) has the IR emitter built in to turn ON/OFF the Epson. I setup numerous activities with Watch Nvidia Shield TV being one of them. This works except it does nothing with my projector. At one point, I engaged another activity, and it did turn ON my projector but did not turn it OFF. I tried teaching the Elite the Epson's STANDBY for OFF but the Elite does not do anything when I'm trying to make it learn this command - just sits there but the very odd time will throw out a red message saying it has an issue recognizing this command - try again. Even my TiVo which I added as the correct model, TiVo T6 PVR, has an issue. I say Watch TV, which should engage my TiVo T6, and it doesn't do anything with it. I try to use my TiVo remote to make the Elite remote learn the TiVo remote functions but it does not recognize any of them. This is the second Harmony Elite, exchanged the first one, that I'm trying but with the same results.

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks. At least, I can control my Shield TV okay which is the main reason I bought the Harmony for.


----------



## rmilyard

migsta said:


> Anybody successfully setup the Harmony Elite to just turn ON/OFF the 6040UB with an activity.
> 
> Apparently, the Harmony Elite remote (not the iOS app) has the IR emitter built in to turn ON/OFF the Epson. I setup numerous activities with Watch Nvidia Shield TV being one of them. This works except it does nothing with my projector. At one point, I engaged another activity, and it did turn ON my projector but did not turn it OFF. I tried teaching the Elite the Epson's STANDBY for OFF but the Elite does not do anything when I'm trying to make it learn this command - just sits there but the very odd time will throw out a red message saying it has an issue recognizing this command - try again. Even my TiVo which I added as the correct model, TiVo T6 PVR, has an issue. I say Watch TV, which should engage my TiVo T6, and it doesn't do anything with it. I try to use my TiVo remote to make the Elite remote learn the TiVo remote functions but it does not recognize any of them. This is the second Harmony Elite, exchanged the first one, that I'm trying but with the same results.
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated, thanks. At least, I can control my Shield TV okay which is the main reason I bought the Harmony for.


My Harmony Ultimate home will turn off my 5040ub. I had to have Logitech remote in to fix it. Not 100% sure what they did but I believe that moved the projector to be first thing turned off and maybe added a delay since you need to press off twice.


----------



## dholmes54

You guys tell me which is better 709 or2020?


----------



## swyda038

covsound1 said:


> update 109 gives you the option to strip hdr. you will get bt2020 when you select sdr when playing playing 4k hdr. brightness the only adjustment as it has come down about 10 stops. this works in all modes also enhancements has been improved in 4k modes 2 and 4 give you the least ringing as now mode 4 is now my go to enhancement mode for 4k.


Would you be able to describe further the settings on the Epson 5040 you have that you are able to accomplish BT2020 for HDR to get the best image quality for 4k?

Just got my projector today and wanted to know what settings work best 

Thanks for the input!


----------



## elmalloc

Watched a bunch of content. Right now I say BD 1080ps (if mastered well/new) look pretty good with 4K image enhancement.

4K UHDs look good too, but not a huge difference between 4K image enhanced Blurays.

Finally, Netfiix Ultra 4K via Nvidia Shield TV looks impressive. It might be because I have limited UHDs right now (which are all scope/2.35, and my screen is 1.78) - but that Ultra 4K stuff on Netflix looks really great (most of it is 1.78 AR).

I'm running all devices to my receiver (Denon S920W) and outputted with a single HDMI to the wireless HDMI transmitter, things are working. Only one more device to connect, the Nintendo Switch...although last time I connected it, it looked poor. Wii-U games in general look better than Switch's Zelda.


----------



## HarleyRider

covsound1 said:


> update 109 gives you the option to strip hdr. you will get bt2020 when you select sdr when playing playing 4k hdr. brightness the only adjustment as it has come down about 10 stops. this works in all modes also enhancements has been improved in 4k modes 2 and 4 give you the least ringing as now mode 4 is now my go to enhancement mode for 4k.





swyda038 said:


> Would you be able to describe further the settings on the Epson 5040 you have that you are able to accomplish BT2020 for HDR to get the best image quality for 4k?
> 
> Just got my projector today and wanted to know what settings work best
> 
> Thanks for the input!


I'm interested in this, too, because I don't notice any difference in functionality between the 1.08 and 1.09 firmware when manually switching to SDR with a 4K HDR source. The color still seems way off to me when I switch to SDR. Undersaturated and washed out. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but there's only one spot in the menu to make this change, as far as I know.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

elmalloc said:


> Watched a bunch of content. Right now I say BD 1080ps (if mastered well/new) look pretty good with 4K image enhancement.
> 
> 4K UHDs look good too, but not a huge difference between 4K image enhanced Blurays.
> 
> Finally, Netfiix Ultra 4K via Nvidia Shield TV looks impressive. It might be because I have limited UHDs right now (which are all scope/2.35, and my screen is 1.78) - but that Ultra 4K stuff on Netflix looks really great (most of it is 1.78 AR).
> 
> I'm running all devices to my receiver (Denon S920W) and outputted with a single HDMI to the wireless HDMI transmitter, things are working. Only one more device to connect, the Nintendo Switch...although last time I connected it, it looked poor. Wii-U games in general look better than Switch's Zelda.


I'm beginning to think something is simply wrong with my wireless transmitter. Gonna talk to Epson about getting a replacement. Last night I got signal drops while watching a 1080p movie on my Xbox. FFS.


----------



## Valleyboy

Does anyone have any Bright Cinema settings that work for them? I've got my Natural looking pretty good, now I wanna see if I can dial in Bright Cinema for when I do backyard movies. And oh yeah, I'm only doing standard blu rays, not UHD. Thanks for any help.


----------



## elmalloc

flapjackdowntheline said:


> I'm beginning to think something is simply wrong with my wireless transmitter. Gonna talk to Epson about getting a replacement. Last night I got signal drops while watching a 1080p movie on my Xbox. FFS.


If I stand in front of my transmitter, the screen will get fuzzy, and long enough it will lose transmission. So if someone gets up and walked out of the room I'm guessing I will lose transmission in some fashion for a second. I played with the position of the transmitter, I have mine to the left on top of my theater console, and to the front. If it's farther back it seemed to have more issues.

My transmitter is very low to the ground (1ft, probably). Can't really put it anywhere else as my theater console is a horizontal thing underneath my screen.


----------



## trainfan

elmalloc said:


> If I stand in front of my transmitter, the screen will get fuzzy, and long enough it will lose transmission. So if someone gets up and walked out of the room I'm guessing I will lose transmission in some fashion for a second. I played with the position of the transmitter, I have mine to the left on top of my theater console, and to the front. If it's farther back it seemed to have more issues.
> 
> My transmitter is very low to the ground (1ft, probably). Can't really put it anywhere else as my theater console is a horizontal thing underneath my screen.


I had to turn my transmitter 90 degrees counter clock wise and now works perfectly, Have to stand a very close with the remote to turn the transmitter on and off but only downside


----------



## elmalloc

trainfan said:


> I had to turn my transmitter 90 degrees counter clock wise and now works perfectly, Have to stand a very close with the remote to turn the transmitter on and off but only downside


Yeah, it's interesting. I now have the transmitter inside the theater console behind a tinted glass door, on the lowest level (we're talking inches above the ground). Somehow it's working perfectly. There is definitely an angle of attack it needs. My projector is very close (under 11ft from screen), cabinet is only 8 feet'ish, so the angle is hard.


----------



## whmacs

elmalloc said:


> Yeah, it's interesting. I now have the transmitter inside the theater console behind a tinted glass door, on the lowest level (we're talking inches above the ground). Somehow it's working perfectly. There is definitely an angle of attack it needs. My projector is very close (under 11ft from screen), cabinet is only 8 feet'ish, so the angle is hard.


Yes, I've been super impressed with the wireless transmitter. Mine is sitting directly below the screen about 1.2 metres off the ground. Projector is 4.8metres away ceiling mounted. It has never missed a beat with 4K UHD HDR content. The signal strength constantly reports 100%. That's pretty impressive considering for 24Hz 4K UHD 4.2.2 blu-ray it must be pumping somewhere around 6-8Gbits/sec over wireless. The only way I've found to block it is stand directly in front of the transmitter or cover the transmitter with my hands.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## elmalloc

k3nnis said:


> Thanks you got pics of your setup?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here's a few from my Galaxy S7 phone in my non-dedicated setup. NVidia Shield TV showing "Apex" Ultra 4K from Netflix, 110" Screen Innovations Zero Edge (Pure White) screen.


----------



## cappy83

elmalloc said:


> Here's a few from my Galaxy S7 phone in my non-dedicated setup. NVidia Shield TV showing "Apex" Ultra 4K from Netflix, 110" Screen Innovations Zero Edge (Pure White) screen.



Awesome Picture!!!! Can I ask why you and so many users have a Shield while also having a PS4/XBOX S and the Phillips Bluray???? I'm wondering if I'm missing something...Thanks


----------



## cappy83

covsound1 said:


> update 109 gives you the option to strip hdr. you will get bt2020 when you select sdr when playing playing 4k hdr. brightness the only adjustment as it has come down about 10 stops. this works in all modes also enhancements has been improved in 4k modes 2 and 4 give you the least ringing as now mode 4 is now my go to enhancement mode for 4k.


Just got my Epson 5050 in the mail and setting up this weekend!!! Should I download the new software update and how do I go about doing it??

Thanks,
Sean


----------



## k3nnis

elmalloc said:


> Here's a few from my Galaxy S7 phone in my non-dedicated setup. NVidia Shield TV showing "Apex" Ultra 4K from Netflix, 110" Screen Innovations Zero Edge (Pure White) screen.




Beautiful! As bright as a tv  I can't afford the screen though 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

covsound1 said:


> update 109 gives you the option to strip hdr. you will get bt2020 when you select sdr when playing playing 4k hdr. brightness the only adjustment as it has come down about 10 stops. this works in all modes also enhancements has been improved in 4k modes 2 and 4 give you the least ringing as now mode 4 is now my go to enhancement mode for 4k.


But the color space selection was available from Day-1. (which just oversaturated the picture, IMHO, when switched to BT2020). It's not new to 109. What am I missing?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Please stop quoting entire pictures. At least add a spoiler.


----------



## aaranddeeman

cappy83 said:


> Just got my Epson *5050* in the mail and setting up this weekend!!! Should I download the new software update and how do I go about doing it??
> 
> Thanks,
> Sean


Wow, you seem to have time machine..


----------



## elmalloc

cappy83 said:


> Awesome Picture!!!! Can I ask why you and so many users have a Shield while also having a PS4/XBOX S and the Phillips Bluray???? I'm wondering if I'm missing something...Thanks


I have a PS4 Pro to try and play 4K PS4 games. I'm not having much success with FFXV in 4K mode, the projector still says 1920x1080. Same with NBA2K17 (it's supposed to have a 4K mode). I took a look at the PS4Pro's video settings but didn't find any combination that would trick it into thinking the Epson is a 4K projector. I wonder if my receiver is playing games with the signal, not sure.

XBOX S is if you want to play 4K UHDs. PS4 Pro does not play UHDs. The Philips seems to handle UHDs pretty well, and since I had an XBOX One already, I decided to not get an XBOX S.

The Shield from what I gather is one of the only devices to not have problems displaying NetFlix 4K/Amazon 4K. All this stuff is flaky right now, it's like the old days of putting a PC together - better select the right parts (by reading the thread). *I **definitely recommend *the NVidia Shield TV + Epson combination.

Netflix Ultra 4K looks spectacular for the most part.


----------



## cappy83

aaranddeeman said:


> Wow, you seem to have time machine..


Lol.....I wish.....5040UB


----------



## cappy83

elmalloc said:


> I have a PS4 Pro to try and play 4K PS4 games. I'm not having much success with FFXV in 4K mode, the projector still says 1920x1080. Same with NBA2K17 (it's supposed to have a 4K mode). I took a look at the PS4Pro's video settings but didn't find any combination that would trick it into thinking the Epson is a 4K projector. I wonder if my receiver is playing games with the signal, not sure.
> 
> XBOX S is if you want to play 4K UHDs. PS4 Pro does not play UHDs. The Philips seems to handle UHDs pretty well, and since I had an XBOX One already, I decided to not get an XBOX S.
> 
> The Shield from what I gather is one of the only devices to not have problems displaying NetFlix 4K/Amazon 4K. All this stuff is flaky right now, it's like the old days of putting a PC together - better select the right parts (by reading the thread). *I **definitely recommend *the NVidia Shield TV + Epson combination.
> 
> Netflix Ultra 4K looks spectacular for the most part.


Ok that makes sense....I know about the xbox issue with HDR but didn't know that was with 4k Netflix as well...Does the Nvidia Shield TV have issues with HDR on Netflix?


----------



## spirithockey79

aaranddeeman said:


> But the color space selection was available from Day-1. (which just oversaturated the picture, IMHO, when switched to BT2020). It's not new to 109. What am I missing?




I don't think you're missing anything. To the best of my knowledge FW 1.09 did not make any changes to allow you to strip HDR while maintaining bt2020 with SDR. You can toggle back and forth between Rec 709 and BT2020 (just like you could before) but that alone does not remap to bt2020. You still need an Oppo 203 or integral/linker to perform this function. I have the Oppo 203 and it works great.

I've tried just changing in the Epson and the picture looks bad compared to real stripping functionality of the Oppo.


----------



## webmst

Epson SPL Output Saga completed and Resolved.
Thank you to all those who posted their 5040 or 6040 Sound Output settings.
Epson have worked out that there's nothing wrong with my projector and I worked out I didn't calibrate my new SPL meter prior to recording the Projector sound output.
There's nothing quite like being a dunce and then having to tell everyone about it............. (heehee)
Epson Australia were great about it and have returned my projector free of charge.
Once again supporting why I've bought their projectors (professionally) and chose the 5040 for home use.
I'll place the unit in the adjoining room (wall separation and access through cut out) now so it can operate at higher settings and noise levels (for HDR) without impacting in the theatre room.

Interesting point made by an Epson engineer when discussing the unit. He mentioned using the "High Altitude" setting - I live at 800m above sea level - He suggested this may improve the life expectancy of the bulb as the unit would run cooler in HA mode - but noisier. That shouldn't be a problem behind a wall 

Frivolous Question Time:
I'm sure I have an old 4:3 to 16:9 Panamorph lens somewhere and I was wondering how close to 2.35 this would take a 16:9 output from a 5040 (If the lens fits that is - haven't dug it out of some dusty cupboard in the storage shed yet.....


----------



## covsound1

aaranddeeman said:


> But the color space selection was available from Day-1. (which just oversaturated the picture, IMHO, when switched to BT2020). It's not new to 109. What am I missing?


i understand that we had 4k sdr defaulted to 709 color space and if you select 2020 color space went wacky. now when you select sdr color space defaults to bt2020 and if you select 709 color space your picture goes green or wacky. the mapping can be corrected by dropping brightness to taste. i dont use stripping with the panny and hdfury or the built in sdr mode of the epson as like hdr as is, if i need more brightness i just switch to a brighter mode at the cost of black level and color. selecting color space as you know is not the same thing as what the pj defaults to. maybe the pj should not allow this to happen but i think we are lucky it does.


----------



## elmalloc

webmst said:


> Frivolous Question Time:
> I'm sure I have an old 4:3 to 16:9 Panamorph lens somewhere and I was wondering how close to 2.35 this would take a 16:9 output from a 5040 (If the lens fits that is - haven't dug it out of some dusty cupboard in the storage shed yet.....


I'm not familiar with how 4x3 to 16x9 lens works, but 16x9 to 2.35 requires anamorphic squeezing which the 5040 does not support. Only the 6040. The Oppo 203 supposedly has squeezing built in, AFAIK my Phillips player does not.


----------



## aaranddeeman

covsound1 said:


> i understand that we had 4k sdr defaulted to 709 color space and if you select 2020 color space went wacky. *now when you select sdr color space defaults to bt2020* and if you select 709 color space your picture goes green or wacky. the mapping can be corrected by dropping brightness to taste. i dont use stripping with the panny and hdfury or the built in sdr mode of the epson as like hdr as is, if i need more brightness i just switch to a brighter mode at the cost of black level and color. selecting color space as you know is not the same thing as what the pj defaults to. maybe the pj should not allow this to happen but i think we are lucky it does.


Thanks. Good to know.
If that be the case, that is really good..
Due to no change logs these things go unnoticed.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

elmalloc said:


> If I stand in front of my transmitter, the screen will get fuzzy, and long enough it will lose transmission. So if someone gets up and walked out of the room I'm guessing I will lose transmission in some fashion for a second. I played with the position of the transmitter, I have mine to the left on top of my theater console, and to the front. If it's farther back it seemed to have more issues.
> 
> My transmitter is very low to the ground (1ft, probably). Can't really put it anywhere else as my theater console is a horizontal thing underneath my screen.


That's what's so strange about my situation. My transmitter is like 10-11' directly in front of the projector above my screen. Line of sight. No obstructions at all. Signal always says 100%. I can even stand in front of it, and see the signal strength drop, but it really takes a surprising level of obstruction to cause a problem. Yet, pump a 4k signal to this thing, and I get drops all over the place.

I need to test some other positions for this thing. My transmitter is sitting on a shelf just above a Def Tech ProCenter 2000 speaker. Epson tech didn't think that could interfere with the signal, but I'm gonna move it around and see if that might be interfering. That'll probably be the last hoop I jump through before requesting a replacement.


----------



## elmalloc

flapjackdowntheline said:


> That's what's so strange about my situation. My transmitter is like 10-11' directly in front of the projector above my screen. Line of sight. No obstructions at all. Signal always says 100%. I can even stand in front of it, and see the signal strength drop, but it really takes a surprising level of obstruction to cause a problem. Yet, pump a 4k signal to this thing, and I get drops all over the place.
> 
> I need to test some other positions for this thing. My transmitter is sitting on a shelf just above a Def Tech ProCenter 2000 speaker. Epson tech didn't think that could interfere with the signal, but I'm gonna move it around and see if that might be interfering. That'll probably be the last hoop I jump through before requesting a replacement.


Question - did you say your transmitter is above your screen? When looking at the manual, it looks like the lower the transmitter, the better chance it has at the angle of attack.

I can tell you I have mine very low, almost on the ground now, and it has a clear path signal. I haven't checked strength, but I can walk in front of it and it still holds a connection. When I had it a foot off the ground the signal path got blocked easier. I also had it back on the top of my 1ft tall cabinet, and it didn't like that. Make sure the front face can is fully unblocked (meaning not far back in a shelf, all the way to the front).


----------



## SolRebel

Just got mine, hoping to set it up tonight. Coming from a 5030 with a Darbee so curious what the differences will be. 

Anyway, any experience with a Roku Premire+? Seems like the new Shield is the way to go for 4k hdr streaming. Trying to decide if I should return the Roku.


----------



## SolRebel

Previous posts have me convinced on paying for my first pro calibration. Any recommendations for a certified calibrator in the San Diego area?


----------



## Evan201

Last night watched Avatar 3D blu ray on the Epson via XBX One blu ray player combined with the Samsung SSG-3300GR glasses. $25 per pair on amazon. These affordable glasses worked absolutely great with the Epson as others have reported. My wife was really into it as well. 

I decided to experiment with the 3D brightness settings Low, Medium, and High. 

Maybe it's just how awesome 3D is with the Avatar movie or my lack of trained eye, but the Medium setting looked great. Even with the High setting it was pretty stunning, but I noticed a slight ghosting when characters walked across the screen in the foreground so I stuck to Medium 3D brightness. 

The movie came with Titanic 3D as well and will be trying that out tonight. Still haven't tried the 2D----3D conversion for standard Blu Rays. 

Overall, pretty impressed with the 3D capabilities so far.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

elmalloc said:


> Question - did you say your transmitter is above your screen? When looking at the manual, it looks like the lower the transmitter, the better chance it has at the angle of attack.
> 
> I can tell you I have mine very low, almost on the ground now, and it has a clear path signal. I haven't checked strength, but I can walk in front of it and it still holds a connection. When I had it a foot off the ground the signal path got blocked easier. I also had it back on the top of my 1ft tall cabinet, and it didn't like that. Make sure the front face can is fully unblocked (meaning not far back in a shelf, all the way to the front).


Yes, it's above my screen. It's almost exactly level with the ceiling mounted projector. Reviewing the manual again, it looks like you're right. Having it up high might be less ideal. I'm not sure where to put it, though. In my case I don't have any media stands or anything to set it on. I have all my components in a media closet behind the wall the projector screen is attached to.

One option that just occurred to me is to cut out a section of drywall directly behind the screen and place the transmitter right behind the screen. I wonder if the signal can easily penetrate the screen without any noticeable signal degradation. Hmmm...


----------



## rmilyard

So help me out. From what I am reading the Xbox One S with the Epson 5040ub will not output at 4K with or without HDR? I am thinking about upgrading my old Xbox One so I could use Netflix and Amazon till the new Intel 7th Gen NUC comes out. Am I just better off using a Nvidia Shield TV for now?


----------



## Evan201

rmilyard said:


> So help me out. From what I am reading the Xbox One S with the Epson 5040ub will not output at 4K with or without HDR? I am thinking about upgrading my old Xbox One so I could use Netflix and Amazon till the new Intel 7th Gen NUC comes out. Am I just better off using a Nvidia Shield TV for now?


I get great 4k with Nvidia Shield when locked out to 4k/24p. (*SEE POST# 6158 FOR SCREEN SHOTS*) The HDR will work if it's sent from Amazon app (*Try Van Gogh: Brush With Genius*)but there are very few titles that send the HDR signal currently. 

With Netflix app HDR was working with 1.08 firmware and when I updated to 1.09 firmware and updated the Shield to 5.1 update, the Netflix app stopped sending HDR. 

The Shield in my opinion is the best for streaming with the Epson. It offers the most popular apps and works great. 

4k/24p--BT2020--12bit--4:2:2---SDR looks great. You will be pleased. I have a Philips player coming for UHD discs on Monday. Cant wait to test it out with Batman v. Superman and Warcraft UHD.


----------



## rmilyard

Evan201 said:


> I get great 4k with Nvidia Shield when locked out to 4k/24p. (*SEE POST# 6158 FOR SCREEN SHOTS*) The HDR will work if it's sent from Amazon app (*Try Van Gogh: Brush With Genius*)but there are very few titles that send the HDR signal currently.
> 
> With Netflix app HDR was working with 1.08 firmware and when I updated to 1.09 firmware and updated the Shield to 5.01 update, the Netflix app stopped sending HDR.
> 
> The Shield in my opinion is the best for streaming with the Epson. It offers the most popular apps and works great.
> 
> 4k/24p--BT2020--12bit--4:2:2---SDR looks great. You will be pleased. I have a Philips player coming for UHD discs on Monday. Cant wait to test it out with Batman v. Superman and Warcraft UHD.



So how about Kodi the the Shield for 4k? I have older 5th Gen NUC and it crashes on some of the UHD mkv files I try to play.


----------



## elmalloc

Evan201 said:


> I get great 4k with Nvidia Shield when locked out to 4k/24p. (*SEE POST# 6158 FOR SCREEN SHOTS*) The HDR will work if it's sent from Amazon app (*Try Van Gogh: Brush With Genius*)but there are very few titles that send the HDR signal currently.
> 
> With Netflix app HDR was working with 1.08 firmware and when I updated to 1.09 firmware and updated the Shield to 5.01 update, the Netflix app stopped sending HDR.
> 
> The Shield in my opinion is the best for streaming with the Epson. It offers the most popular apps and works great.
> 
> 4k/24p--BT2020--12bit--4:2:2---SDR looks great. You will be pleased. I have a Philips player coming for UHD discs on Monday. Cant wait to test it out with Batman v. Superman and Warcraft UHD.


You can link to a specific post if you copy the link where it says "POST # OF" in the upper right of each post.

Example: POST #6158.


----------



## Evan201

rmilyard said:


> So how about Kodi the the Shield for 4k? I have older 5th Gen NUC and it crashes on some of the UHD mkv files I try to play.


I recently got 4k streams going through Kodi. Looks great. Some play without buffering better than others. Two days in a row "The Martian" wouldn't buffer. On the 3rd day I tried it, it worked all the way through without buffering. All up to the source I suppose. Warcraft also played no problem for me through the "Real Movies" add on in 4k. 

No HDR, but if you have your Shield locked at 4k/24p It will send BT2020--12bit--SDR and again, looks great! 
I downloaded the "TVHZ" app from google store for the Shield and it allows you to switch to 4k/30p which was better for motion when watching Warcraft. Eliminated a bunch of the jutter in the panning images.


----------



## migsta

Getting too many instances now whereby switching between sources and going back to my Panny UB900 gives me 1080p instead of 4K. I end up having to power off/on the projector to get it to show 4K. This was not happening before but now it does and it's a pretty big issue as far as I'm concerned. Anybody else seeing this?


----------



## hatlesschimp

Been playing Horizon Zero Dawn on the PS4 with the projector and love the game. I'm not really into these genre of game sometimes. I get moody LOL. Anyways it’s fantastic! Is anyone else playing this game on their PJ? My wife is disappointed I started it without her. It was late and I put it on for a quick look and next thing it was 3am! I was looking at getting Ghost Recon but I think it might feel to repetitive. All the gameplay videos I’ve seen of it so far remind me of Just cause mixed with GTA. I’m a little bored with that now. I also read somewhere one of the main producers has left Rock star to go make their own GTA styled/themed open world game called 'Everywhere'. Hmm.


----------



## ac388

Which Addon is it ? DNA ? R ? Tks.




Evan201 said:


> I recently got 4k streams going through Kodi. Looks great. Some play without buffering better than others. Two days in a row "The Martian" wouldn't buffer. On the 3rd day I tried it, it worked all the way through without buffering. All up to the source I suppose. Warcraft also played no problem for me through the "Real Movies" add on in 4k.
> 
> No HDR, but if you have your Shield locked at 4k/24p It will send BT2020--12bit--SDR and again, looks great!
> I downloaded the "TVHZ" app from google store for the Shield and it allows you to switch to 4k/30p which was better for motion when watching Warcraft. Eliminated a bunch of the jutter in the panning images.


----------



## rupedogg24

hatlesschimp said:


> Been playing Horizon Zero Dawn on the PS4 with the projector and love the game. I'm not really into these genre of game sometimes. I get moody LOL. Anyways it’s fantastic! Is anyone else playing this game on their PJ? My wife is disappointed I started it without her. It was late and I put it on for a quick look and next thing it was 3am!


I have and love every single minute I've spent with it. It's one of those video game experiences that shouldn't be missed. I have it running on a PS4 with HDR and it's gorgeous. Every PS4 owner should own this game. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

ac388 said:


> Which Addon is it ? DNA ? R ? Tks.
> 
> 
> Here: 5 add ons with how to install
> All offer 4k movies.
> 
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EgI76h4sldE


----------



## seplant

*Best UHD Blu-ray player for the 5040/6040?*

I've been enjoying my 6040 watching standard Blu-rays, but I'm considering dipping into the 4K pool and getting a UHD Blu-ray player. Looking for advice on which player to buy. I would typically go for the Oppo, but if I don't need/want to strip the HDR flag, does the Oppo offer any other advantage over more affordable players such as the Philips or the Samsung? Is the picture quality the same, or do any of the players have features that are particularly beneficial for watching 4K HDR material on the 5040/6040? Thanks.


----------



## rmilyard

So if anyone using Shield TV with Kodi 17 to playback 4k mkv and ISO files I would love to know what your settings are in Kodi. I have a Shield Pro coming tomorrow and would like to get setup.


----------



## SolRebel

Got mine set up last night and started trying to get familiar with everything. Off the top I was getting some really bad banding in the Sky in UHD blu rays. Added some shots. Maybe someone can suggest a fix? Running and Oppo to the 5040. I left most everything on Auto.


----------



## gene4ht

seplant said:


> I've been enjoying my 6040 watching standard Blu-rays, but I'm considering dipping into the 4K pool and getting a UHD Blu-ray player. Looking for advice on which player to buy. I would typically go for the Oppo, but if I don't need/want to strip the HDR flag, does the Oppo offer any other advantage over more affordable players such as the Philips or the Samsung? Is the picture quality the same, or do any of the players have features that are particularly beneficial for watching 4K HDR material on the 5040/6040? Thanks.


I have both the Philips and the Oppo and find the PQ very comparable. If you don't care about stripping HDR and are not a fiddler/tweaker, the Philips will serve you very well. The Oppo has some birthing issues and ultimately will be resolved. The Philips just simply works and the current price from Monoprice is a no-brainer!

https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=18812&gclid=COGIq56FzdICFQeHaQodwM8H3Q


----------



## Evan201

SolRebel said:


> Got mine set up last night and started trying to get familiar with everything. Off the top I was getting some really bad banding in the Sky in UHD blu rays. Added some shots. Maybe someone can suggest a fix? Running and Oppo to the 5040. I left most everything on Auto.


Your target should be 4k/24p---12Bit---BT2020---4:2:2. 

In my opinion this looks the best on Epson 5040. The 12Bit may fix that problem. I have a philips player coming monday and will be trying out Batman v. Superman and Warcraft UHD discs to start. Expecting Warcraft to be bright and poppy, and BM v SM to be dark tones.


----------



## lgreis

What is the best native CR in natural mode bt709 that you are getting from the 5040/6040? Its not consensuous, i read from 6000.1 till 10000.1... does it mean that the first machines did less that the new ones? Maybe epson is optimizing the CR...

Enviado do meu GT-I9505 através de Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> Bright Cinema mode does show the P3 BT2020 WCG. It does not appear to show it, because the calibrator took readings and showed me a color plot that confirmed it.
> 
> HDR is about contrast. Deeper blacks and brighter whites. Everyday you see things much brighter than what your TV is capable of, and your eyes handle it just fine.
> 
> Our eyes are most sensitive to contrast changes. HDR done properly can give you a whole new sense of depth in an image. Projectors don't have near the light output to do HDR properly, and neither do current LED panels, however they get much closer than projectors.
> 
> That being said you can still get a very good image with HDR on this projector if it is properly done.
> 
> The calibrated picture I have has very deep blacks and really good contrast. Digital Cinema just does not have enough light output to properly do HDR the contrast is too narrow, and whites get clipped. The only way to prevent this is to lower contrast or turn super white on. Problem with that is you lose brightness, and the picture looks too dark.
> 
> Bright Cinema has double the light output, and can provide a much better HDR image, and contrast. In this mode you can have a wider HDR like contrast, AND retain the overall brightness of the image. You can guess your settings I did that for awhile too. Or you can either pay a calibrator or invest in some instruments yourself, and test your projector.
> 
> You need a custom gamma curve to make it right, and the only way you can do that is through taking readings. If you don't than you are just guessing.
> 
> Even if I posted all my settings from the calibration they would not work for you. My room, and conditions are different than yours.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Do you have any good UHD material you would suggest to validate a calibration? Thinking about what I could use to show him the overblown whites and crushed blacks. The guy I used for my 5010 did a good job and seemed very knowledgeable, but in talking with him about HDR he mentioned that there's no display that can correctly show bt2020. This was interesting as I don't recall this really being an issue mentioned in this thread. Of course he said he would get the most out of this projector.

I want him to calibrate for a normal SDR Blu-ray picture, an HDR picture (maybe 1 for bright movies and 1 for dark movies), and an SDR bt2020 picture. 

I do remember though on the 5010 he didn't spend any time with the "special" features of the pj. He went straight to brightness, contrast, color, gamma. Didn't even check out the other color modes, sharpness, etc. So I'm a bit nervous with HDR being so new that he may not know everything he should nor would he know all the various options on the 5040, or the Oppo 203 for that matter.


----------



## SolRebel

Evan201 said:


> SolRebel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Got mine set up last night and started trying to get familiar with everything. Off the top I was getting some really bad banding in the Sky in UHD blu rays. Added some shots. Maybe someone can suggest a fix? Running and Oppo to the 5040. I left most everything on Auto.
> 
> 
> 
> Your target should be 4k/24p---12Bit---BT2020---4:2:2.
> 
> In my opinion this looks the best on Epson 5040. The 12Bit may fix that problem. I have a philips player coming monday and will be trying out Batman v. Superman and Warcraft UHD discs to start. Expecting Warcraft to be bright and poppy, and BM v SM to be dark tones.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! How do I get it to be 12bit?


----------



## chevpowr

Have any of you guys considered checking out the new Sony UBP-X800? Im hoping we see some Netflix HDR coming through as well as some other apps. It looks like its going to be the best UHD player for the price by far. I hope one of you are about to tell me you have it and its amazing


----------



## dev23007

*HELP 5040 with HDR on HPC or Potplayer*

Really need some help here. Spent DAYS trying to get this to work. I have Epson 5040UB hooked up with newest spec HDMI cables from projector to Denon Reciever(AVRX 2200W-->PC. I cant get the Epson to recognize HDR bt.2020 in the projector info when playing a UHD HDR .mkv w/ MPC or Potplayer and MadVr. What am I doing wrong? Even if I force the HDR bt.2020. in the Epson setttings the proj info and the images stays in bt.709. Is it possible to get HDR bt.2020 bit depth 10 bit via PC using MPC or potplayer with an .mkv UHD HDR movie?? Is running it through my receiver the problem or am I missing a setting somewhere?


----------



## SolRebel

Guy at my work who is also a 5040 owner is telling me the reason I'm only getting 8bit is because my 10.2 speed hdmi is too long and I need a shorter one or a faster one. Can anyone confirm? 

Might try and pull my Oppo from the rack and run it on a short cable to test. 

He also mentioned that you can only get 10bit out of the projector. Based on this thread I'm guessing he is mistaken and you can get 12bit?

Thanks


----------



## BRADH

SolRebel said:


> Guy at my work who is also a 5040 owner is telling me the reason I'm only getting 8bit is because my 10.2 speed hdmi is too long and I need a shorter one or a faster one. Can anyone confirm?
> 
> Might try and pull my Oppo from the rack and run it on a short cable to test.
> 
> He also mentioned that you can only get 10bit out of the projector. Based on this thread I'm guessing he is mistaken and you can get 12bit?
> 
> Thanks


With the Monoprice Cabernet 25ft cable I get 12bit 4.2.2 https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12735&seq=1&format=2 Samsung 8500 to 6040.
I feel lucky I got my first cable to work. 
Brad


----------



## TheGizzard

BRADH said:


> With the Monoprice Cabernet 25ft cable I get 12bit 4.2.2 https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12735&seq=1&format=2 Samsung 8500 to 6040.
> I feel lucky I got my first cable to work.
> Brad


I have a 45ft Cabernet cable coming on Weds. I hope it works. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## ayrton

Smarty-pants said:


> The projector ALWAYS outputs 1080p.
> Remember it is not a true 4K display. It is a native 1080p display and uses eShift to make it look like 4K.
> For incoming 4K signals, it converts that to 1080p and then uses eShift to make it look like 4K.
> For incoming signals that are less than 1080p, again they will be (up)converted to 1080p.
> 
> So when you see what is coming in, that is telling what is being converted to the native (1080p) resolution
> of the display, and again the output is always the same according to what settings you have implemented in the settings menu.
> Some things can change like color gamut depending on what you send the projector, it will display the best colors sent.
> IE: BT.2020 for UHD Blu-ray, BT:709 for HD Blu-ray, and BT.601 for DVD.
> 
> It kind of would be nice if there were extended info showing exactly what was being displayed,
> but there really wouldn't be too much info there aside from color gamut, color space, and other various settings you have set in the settings menu, and most of those settings are usually set_it_and_forget_it type settings that most people don't change often.


I've read this thread to pg. 165 and this one bothers me a little.

What's the point in spending another $1K on 4K source equiment plus media when my old Oppo 93 will do fine??

Thanks for all the hard work and info you guys/girls have provided.


----------



## aaranddeeman

aaranddeeman said:


> Thanks. Good to know.
> If that be the case, that is really good..
> Due to no change logs these things go unnoticed.


Tried switching to SDR when HDR content was playing. Yes. it does keep the BT.2020 (based on the info screen), but the picture still gets washed out.


----------



## aaranddeeman

ayrton said:


> I've read this thread to pg. 165 and this one bothers me a little.
> 
> What's the point in spending another $1K on 4K source equiment plus media when my old Oppo 93 will do fine??
> 
> Thanks for all the hard work and info you guys/girls have provided.


Don't be the victim of possible misinformation.


----------



## seplant

ayrton said:


> I've read this thread to pg. 165 and this one bothers me a little.
> 
> What's the point in spending another $1K on 4K source equiment plus media when my old Oppo 93 will do fine??
> 
> Thanks for all the hard work and info you guys/girls have provided.


I don't believe this information is correct. Read some of the earlier posts in this thread. While this projector is NATIVE 1080p, meaning the panels are only 1080p, the output actually achieves higher perceived resolution by electronically shifting images to almost eliminate the black spaces between the pixels. In the case of 4K content, this projector is able to display additional information beyond the native 1080p, and while it is not quite true 4K, it does provide higher perceived resolution than 1080p. Plus the upscaling of 1080p content is fantastic. It certainly surprised me! 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## flyguyjake

dev23007 said:


> Really need some help here. Spent DAYS trying to get this to work. I have Epson 5040UB hooked up with newest spec HDMI cables from projector to Denon Reciever(AVRX 2200W-->PC. I cant get the Epson to recognize HDR bt.2020 in the projector info when playing a UHD HDR .mkv w/ MPC or Potplayer and MadVr. What am I doing wrong? Even if I force the HDR bt.2020. in the Epson setttings the proj info and the images stays in bt.709. Is it possible to get HDR bt.2020 bit depth 10 bit via PC using MPC or potplayer with an .mkv UHD HDR movie?? Is running it through my receiver the problem or am I missing a setting somewhere?


Provided your GPU is capable of outputting BT.2020 & HDR you need this tool 

https://developer.nvidia.com/hdr-display-sample

I read about it on this forum here:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-h...-color-gamut-wcg/2575889-enable-hdr-pc-2.html

Works for me on my two HTPC's. 1 running a 970 and 1 running a 1070.


----------



## elmalloc

What calibration disc do you guys use nowadays?

I realized most of my games were washed out, after tweaking some settings, my brightness is set only 15-17 in some saved memory settings. The projector is shooting a ton of lumens at only 10-11ft away, and games look a lot better after tweaking the brightness down.

I would like to do some general calibration (without ISF) for now. I used to use Video Essentials.


----------



## elmalloc

hatlesschimp said:


> Been playing Horizon Zero Dawn on the PS4 with the projector and love the game. I'm not really into these genre of game sometimes. I get moody LOL. Anyways it’s fantastic! Is anyone else playing this game on their PJ? My wife is disappointed I started it without her. It was late and I put it on for a quick look and next thing it was 3am! I was looking at getting Ghost Recon but I think it might feel to repetitive. All the gameplay videos I’ve seen of it so far remind me of Just cause mixed with GTA. I’m a little bored with that now. I also read somewhere one of the main producers has left Rock star to go make their own GTA styled/themed open world game called 'Everywhere'. Hmm.
> 
> https://youtu.be/LE3XaYfhstA


Hatless,

Have you turn on any of the smooth motion interpolation features on your projector? This used to be blasphemy due to lag/etc, but I turned mine onto High for Zelda and it's done marvelous things for it. I feel no lag. Zelda runs at only 20-30 FPS 900p, so it's done a lot to smooth the frame rate out.

I hope to get Horizon for my birthday.

I haven't gotten FFXV to look/play well with HDR or 4K on the Epson, have you had a chance to try that game - and if so how did you get it to recognize 4K?

Thanks!


----------



## Boldlygo

I've posted here in the past about the fact that Bluray's that I play on my OPPO UDP-203 to my Epson 6040 have better colour reproduction than the 4K version of the same movie. I've verified that the Epson is getting HDR by displaying the Info from the OPPO. My OPPO settings are basically all 'AUTO'. After reading a lot here, I thought it might be my 35' cable I was using - I've had it for a few years. It was a generic HDMI 1.3 one. So I ordered a 35' Toptrend 4K cable off Amazon and it made absolutely no difference. I still like the Bluray version better.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Boldlygo said:


> I've posted here in the past about the fact that Bluray's that I play on my OPPO UDP-203 to my Epson 6040 have better colour reproduction than the 4K version of the same movie. I've verified that the Epson is getting HDR by displaying the Info from the OPPO. My OPPO settings are basically all 'AUTO'. After reading a lot here, I thought it might be my 35' cable I was using - I've had it for a few years. It was a generic HDMI 1.3 one. So I ordered a 35' Toptrend 4K cable off Amazon and it made absolutely no difference. I still like the Bluray version better.


Wow really, I can see a huge difference! UHD looks sharper. Colour is better. Must be something wrong with your settings.

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## Boldlygo

hatlesschimp said:


> Wow really, I can see a huge difference! UHD looks sharper. Colour is better. Must be something wrong with your settings.


That would be nice if there was something wrong that I could figure out. Let me go through my settings and I'll post them here in a little while.


----------



## Boldlygo

So here's my settings for 4K:

All OPPO settings are 'AUTO'
The Output is showing: Resolution 3840x2160
Frame Rate: 23.976p
HDR Format: HDR
Color Space: BT2020 YCbCr: 4:4:4 8 bit

Epson: Color Mode: Dynamic
Brightness: 59
Contrast: 46
Color Saturation: 47
Tint: 31
Super White: Off
HDR Mode 1


----------



## rmilyard

I have a 2017 Shield Pro connected to my Denon AVR-X6200W and then my Epson 5040ub projector. When I look at the info for single in AVR it shows as Rec 709 4:2:0 8 bit. Anyone know how to change this? In the Shield no other Color Space options there. When I connect Shield to my Samsung 8500 upstairs I have a lot more options. So my guess is the AVR doing something. I did check make sure it's not converting video and looks like it's not.

Driving me nuts. Maybe someone know how to help with this.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Boldlygo said:


> So here's my settings for 4K:
> 
> All OPPO settings are 'AUTO'
> The Output is showing: Resolution 3840x2160
> Frame Rate: 23.976p
> HDR Format: HDR
> Color Space: BT2020 YCbCr: 4:4:4 8 bit
> 
> Epson: Color Mode: Dynamic
> Brightness: 59
> Contrast: 46
> Color Saturation: 47
> Tint: 31
> Super White: Off
> HDR Mode 1



IMHO, Dynamic is the least preferred and worst (w/o any measured calibration) mode on Epson.


----------



## seplant

Boldlygo said:


> So here's my settings for 4K:
> 
> All OPPO settings are 'AUTO'
> The Output is showing: Resolution 3840x2160
> Frame Rate: 23.976p
> HDR Format: HDR
> Color Space: BT2020 YCbCr: 4:4:4 8 bit
> 
> Epson: Color Mode: Dynamic
> Brightness: 59
> Contrast: 46
> Color Saturation: 47
> Tint: 31
> Super White: Off
> HDR Mode 1


See post #6124. This was from someone who had a professional calibration done, but they had the best luck with Digital Cinema mode. Plus, you won't get the wide color gamut with Dynamic mode. You might want to check your tint setting as well. Seems very low.


----------



## rmilyard

rmilyard said:


> I have a 2017 Shield Pro connected to my Denon AVR-X6200W and then my Epson 5040ub projector. When I look at the info for single in AVR it shows as Rec 709 4:2:0 8 bit. Anyone know how to change this? In the Shield no other Color Space options there. When I connect Shield to my Samsung 8500 upstairs I have a lot more options. So my guess is the AVR doing something. I did check make sure it's not converting video and looks like it's not.
> 
> Driving me nuts. Maybe someone know how to help with this.


Here are some pictures:

From Shield TV Pro:



From Denon AVR:


Epson 5040:


----------



## rmilyard

rmilyard said:


> I have a 2017 Shield Pro connected to my Denon AVR-X6200W and then my Epson 5040ub projector. When I look at the info for single in AVR it shows as Rec 709 4:2:0 8 bit. Anyone know how to change this? In the Shield no other Color Space options there. When I connect Shield to my Samsung 8500 upstairs I have a lot more options. So my guess is the AVR doing something. I did check make sure it's not converting video and looks like it's not.
> 
> Driving me nuts. Maybe someone know how to help with this.


So after a lot of messing around I think I found it. When changed Shield to 4K 23.976Hz I get the BT 4:2:2 2020 12 bit option. Also using my 50 feet fiber HDMI cable seems to work!

Next Netflix plays back 4:2:2 BT2020 12bit but in SDR. I think I read someplace that is an issue. Not sure of fix yet. 

Amazon plays 4:2:2 BT2020 12bit HDR. However picture is VERY dark. Need to see how can get brighter so can see it.

Kodi plays the few 4K mkv movies I have now in 4:2:2 BT202 SDR. Picture looks amazing! My wife came down while finding out all this and said wow that is great! Then showed her Amazon HDR and said looks like the projector bulb just died.


----------



## Boldlygo

seplant said:


> See post #6124. This was from someone who had a professional calibration done, but they had the best luck with Digital Cinema mode. Plus, you won't get the wide color gamut with Dynamic mode. You might want to check your tint setting as well. Seems very low.




Ok. Did some playing around and set 4K to these settings:
Color Mode: Bright Cinema
Brightness/Contrast/Sat/Tint at: 50
Color Temp, Skin Tone at: 4
Image Preset Mode: Preset 4
Gamma: 2
Super White: Off
Power Consumption: High
Auto Iris: Normal
HDR: Mode 1

All other settings left alone.

Changed the OPPO's Color Depth to : 12-bit. Now the OPPO's Info shows the Color Space : BT2020 YCbCr: 4:2:0 10 bit

Picture looks pretty good now.


----------



## Boldlygo

Just want to ask about firmware in Canada-my version shows 67007664RWWV105. Is there an update for us Canadian owners?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

aaranddeeman said:


> Tried switching to SDR when HDR content was playing. Yes. it does keep the BT.2020 (based on the info screen), but the picture still gets washed out.


yes it does wash out the picture. but with your settings you use for hdr just drop the brightness 10 clicks or more. you will not get the same control as a panny hdfury combo but will come close. with the oppo strip hdr you had to raise brightness almost 8 clicks to get decent mapping with new fw they have fixed this?. with the epson it is all there with no help you have to cal. i can get a very good picture with sdr bt2020 that is brighter but all said i enjoy hdr over epson sdr 2020 or panny hdfury combo. steaming devices to me strip better than both as the major companies are using far more expensive processors than we can afford. if available i always get digital copy from vudo of my 4k movies. with the epson we have so many ways to skin the cat!


----------



## hatlesschimp

rmilyard said:


> Here are some pictures:
> 
> From Shield TV Pro:
> 
> 
> 
> From Denon AVR:
> 
> 
> Epson 5040:


60hz 4k will always be 8 bit on the Epson 5040ub. Try dropping to 23.97hz and see what happens.

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk


----------



## rmilyard

I have been chatting with Netflix about HDR not working on firmware 1.09. Getting the run around that they never heard about this etc. Proved to them it's happening. Said going to pass this up but who knows. Hard to say with it's Netflix or Epson issue. I would think it's Netflix since Amazon HDR seems to work fine.


----------



## cappy83

Finally got my Epson 5040 up and mounted and really loving the picture!!! I got a free mount from Visualplex which is horrible and I want to change. Anyone have a mount they would recommend? Also looking for some good base line settings for this thing...

Thanks
Sean


----------



## webmst

The Epson low profile mount ELPMB30 is pretty good.
I tried that first and it fitted the unit to a ceiling pretty well.
I've now moved the projector behind the adjacent room wall.
Couldn't cope with the noise ( I want to run the unit in at least Bright Cinema / Natural for HDR ) and it's a better solution compared to the hush box option for me.
Anyone want my old one they can have it for AUD $120 - only thing is the white surround plastic collar got a bit chewed by one of the dogs when I left it on the ground during installation .
They do like to help ............. (replacement of remotes is a normal activity in our household)
So if you're happy with the unit with a poor condition collar (or use it without a collar ) - give me a PM


----------



## db999md

rmilyard said:


> I have been chatting with Netflix about HDR not working on firmware 1.09. Getting the run around that they never heard about this etc. Proved to them it's happening. Said going to pass this up but who knows. Hard to say with it's Netflix or Epson issue. I would think it's Netflix since Amazon HDR seems to work fine.



Netflix HDR is definitely working for me on shield, 1.09, with latest shield update. 

since amazon is recognizing hdr is present the shield must be reporting HDR capability
does the netflix app list vids as HDR? lucas cage episodes are listed as HDR for me on shield.

have you tried a factory reset, then reinstalling any netflix updates on the play store? maybe the netflix app got messed up. 

when i first got the shield the netflix app on there did not support hdr until i updated it.


----------



## migsta

*Shield Pro & Kodi @ 4k*

So I have the 6040UB and the Shield Pro settings for video set to 4k. I can play Netflix, YouTube, etc and it shows that the projector is displaying 4k. With Kodi though, the menu option for display is set to 1080p and I can't choose 4k like I can on my HTPC. How can I get Kodi on the Shield then to display @ 4k like Kodi can on my HTPC? I have not gone into Plex yet but will Plex allow 4k over the Shield as well?


----------



## SolRebel

BRADH said:


> SolRebel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Guy at my work who is also a 5040 owner is telling me the reason I'm only getting 8bit is because my 10.2 speed hdmi is too long and I need a shorter one or a faster one. Can anyone confirm?
> 
> Might try and pull my Oppo from the rack and run it on a short cable to test.
> 
> He also mentioned that you can only get 10bit out of the projector. Based on this thread I'm guessing he is mistaken and you can get 12bit?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> With the Monoprice Cabernet 25ft cable I get 12bit 4.2.2 https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10255&cs_id=1025506&p_id=12735&seq=1&format=2 Samsung 8500 to 6040.
> I feel lucky I got my first cable to work.
> Brad
Click to expand...

Ran some tests with a short cable. Same result. Messed with the Oppo and got the 12bit to show up just like your picture. So thanks for the guidance. Unfortunately the banding is still happening those scenes in the Revenant. Maybe that is an issue with that disc? (Thinking not since it gets such high marks) 

Any other thoughts out there? Might see if a calibrator can sort it. If not I think I will return it and slum it with my TV until something new comes out at Cedia this year. 

Thanks again for the feedback


----------



## gizmo8500

For anyone that has a Philips bdp7501, I need some help please.

I just setup my epson 5040UB, replacing my epson 8350. I am blown away at the brightness difference on my 160" screen, and black levels. Really loving the projector so far, but I have run into a problem.

I bought the Philips bdp7501 based on this forum saying it and the oppo are the most compatible with this projector. Unfortunately no matter what I do, I cannot get it to display 4K in youtube or netflix. It does display 4K in the menu for the player but it switches to 1080p for the menu's for youtube and netflix. Here are the things I have already done:

- Prior to purchasing the projector I upgraded my netflix to 4 screens and 4K level.
- Choosing different 4K options that the Philips player offers (4:2:0/4:4:4 etc)
- Firmware update from 1.04 to the latest.
- Unplugging it and plugging back in (to ensure a complete power off vs just power save mode)
- Ensuring the show I choose in netflix is in 4K and HDR
- Internet bandwidth tests to ensure I have the bandwidth to stream 4K (I have 100 megabit and am getting full speed).

No matter what the projector shows it is 1920x1080 rec.709 8 bit when in the Netflix or youtube apps.

Btw, my theory is when it is working correctly it doesn't just go into 4K when showing a 4K show but that the netflix menu itself should come up in 4K...might be wrong, but would save me time in troubleshooting if I knew at what point I should see 4K.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Got my 5040. Man am I happy. If I didn't know any better, I'd be content projecting on the wall. Can't wait to get my screen.


----------



## rmilyard

db999md said:


> Netflix HDR is definitely working for me on shield, 1.09, with latest shield update.
> 
> since amazon is recognizing hdr is present the shield must be reporting HDR capability
> does the netflix app list vids as HDR? lucas cage episodes are listed as HDR for me on shield.
> 
> have you tried a factory reset, then reinstalling any netflix updates on the play store? maybe the netflix app got messed up.
> 
> when i first got the shield the netflix app on there did not support hdr until i updated it.


I will try to remove it and reinstall it today and see what happens.


----------



## Evan201

rmilyard said:


> I will try to remove it and reinstall it today and see what happens.


Let me know. I will be trying to reset and reinstall updates on the Netflix app tonight as well to see if that brings back the HDR feed to the Epson as it was before 5.1 shield update and FW 1.09 epson update. 
That is, if I can find the time since my Philips is getting delivered tonight and I'm pretty excited to see what Warcraft and BM vs. SM look like from UHD discs. I also want to see if standard Blu Rays look better than being fed through my Original Xbox One blu ray player on the Philips. I'm assuming the Philips will handle the BD's a little better than the xbox.


----------



## philipbtz

Evan201 said:


> Let me know. I will be trying to reset and reinstall updates on the Netflix app tonight as well to see if that brings back the HDR feed to the Epson as it was before 5.1 shield update and FW 1.09 epson update.
> That is, if I can find the time since my Philips is getting delivered tonight and I'm pretty excited to see what Warcraft and BM vs. SM look like from UHD discs. I also want to see if standard Blu Rays look better than being fed through my Original Xbox One blu ray player on the Philips. I'm assuming the Philips will handle the BD's a little better than the xbox.


I have the TW9300(ub6040) with Linker and Nvidi Shield v2 16GB and I also have issues getting HDR to work with Netflix Ultra. The projector is running the 1.09 firmware and the Shield is all latest as far as I know. Are all UHD shows with HDR or only some? I'm running 24Hz with BT2020 4:2:2. I even tried to force HDR on with the Linker but I can see in the Linker program that no HDR is being sent from Netflix. I have HDR from One S and Kodi btw so I know it works in other situations. Has it to do with it being Dolby Vision and not HDR10?


----------



## rmilyard

rmilyard said:


> I will try to remove it and reinstall it today and see what happens.


Well I couldn't uninstall it since it's a built in App. I did uninstall the updates and updated again. Here is version:




In Netflix playing Luke Cage which should be HDR:



Now Amazon playing Patriot:


----------



## Evan201

In Netflix go to the "search" bar and type "HDR." All titles offered in HDR will appear. 

For Amazon, my test video for HDR pass is Van Gogh: A Brush With Genius. Works for me every time. I can't get HDR to pass through with any other material than the ocean documentaries or the Van Gogh movie. For amazon I go to the "UHD titles included with Prime" menu section and scroll over to the Van Gogh movie.


----------



## Craig Peer

cappy83 said:


> Finally got my Epson 5040 up and mounted and really loving the picture!!! I got a free mount from Visualplex which is horrible and I want to change. Anyone have a mount they would recommend? Also looking for some good base line settings for this thing...
> 
> Thanks
> Sean


I recommend the Chief RPA375 mount ( and CMA101 ceiling plate, and the drop tube length of your choice ).


----------



## Craig Peer

Epson has extended the sale on the 5040UB and 5040UBe through April 1st, just FYI.


----------



## rmilyard

Evan201 said:


> In Netflix go to the "search" bar and type "HDR." All titles offered in HDR will appear.
> 
> For Amazon, my test video for HDR pass is Van Gogh: A Brush With Genius. Works for me every time. I can't get HDR to pass through with any other material than the ocean documentaries or the Van Gogh movie. For amazon I go to the "UHD titles included with Prime" menu section and scroll over to the Van Gogh movie.


Added wrong pic for Amazon. Fixed in post. It shows working with HDR. Bad pic since I was moving I guess.


----------



## njbrodeur87

Can anyone post the recommended settings for this projector if im not getting it calibrated anytime soon? Ill be using the phillips player, xbox one s, ps4 pro if that makes a difference.

thank you


----------



## cappy83

*DOA Epson 5040UB*

Well, got it set up last night and was halfway through a movie and noticed a red dot on the screen. Bought the 120 Silver Ticket and thought I had gotten something on the screen while building and then realized it wasn't. Looks like a dead pixel or one shifted from what I can find.

Called Visualapex and they are sending me a shipping label and will start processing new one to send once tracking number is processed. I told them I can deal with it for opening weekend of NCAA tournament and will return Monday. They said that was fine so hopefully better luck with the next one..... Anyone ever had this issue before?


----------



## terminal33

SolRebel said:


> Got mine set up last night and started trying to get familiar with everything. Off the top I was getting some really bad banding in the Sky in UHD blu rays. Added some shots. Maybe someone can suggest a fix? Running and Oppo to the 5040. I left most everything on Auto.


Do you have the Oppo connected directly to the Epson, or to an AVR? If AVR, do you have any video conversion enabled? I had to turn off any processing on my Denon AVR and set it to "Bypass." This eliminated any banding.


----------



## seplant

gizmo8500 said:


> For anyone that has a Philips bdp7501, I need some help please.
> 
> I just setup my epson 5040UB, replacing my epson 8350. I am blown away at the brightness difference on my 160" screen, and black levels. Really loving the projector so far, but I have run into a problem.
> 
> I bought the Philips bdp7501 based on this forum saying it and the oppo are the most compatible with this projector. Unfortunately no matter what I do, I cannot get it to display 4K in youtube or netflix. It does display 4K in the menu for the player but it switches to 1080p for the menu's for youtube and netflix. Here are the things I have already done:
> 
> - Prior to purchasing the projector I upgraded my netflix to 4 screens and 4K level.
> - Choosing different 4K options that the Philips player offers (4:2:0/4:4:4 etc)
> - Firmware update from 1.04 to the latest.
> - Unplugging it and plugging back in (to ensure a complete power off vs just power save mode)
> - Ensuring the show I choose in netflix is in 4K and HDR
> - Internet bandwidth tests to ensure I have the bandwidth to stream 4K (I have 100 megabit and am getting full speed).
> 
> No matter what the projector shows it is 1920x1080 rec.709 8 bit when in the Netflix or youtube apps.
> 
> Btw, my theory is when it is working correctly it doesn't just go into 4K when showing a 4K show but that the netflix menu itself should come up in 4K...might be wrong, but would save me time in troubleshooting if I knew at what point I should see 4K.


Could be a cable issue. If your HDMI cable is too long or not a high speed cable, the Epson will not detect the 4K signal. Lots of posts here on that subject. You might try connecting the player directly to the projector to see if that works. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## gizmo8500

seplant said:


> Could be a cable issue. If your HDMI cable is too long or not a high speed cable, the Epson will not detect the 4K signal. Lots of posts here on that subject. You might try connecting the player directly to the projector to see if that works.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Currently I am not going through the AVR to keep complexity low. The blu-ray player does output 4K to it when I'm in the home menu. Can anyone who has a philips player look at the info screen while they have netflix open (but just in the menu, not playing a show) and tell me if that menu should normally be in 4K or 1080p?

Using the same cable I was able to also do 4K from my PC to the projector. I'm about to try updating the firmware on the projector to 1.09 and see if that helps.


----------



## Evan201

gizmo8500 said:


> Currently I am not going through the AVR to keep complexity low. The blu-ray player does output 4K to it when I'm in the home menu. Can anyone who has a philips player look at the info screen while they have netflix open (but just in the menu, not playing a show) and tell me if that menu should normally be in 4K or 1080p?
> 
> Using the same cable I was able to also do 4K from my PC to the projector. I'm about to try updating the firmware on the projector to 1.09 and see if that helps.


Honestly, If you want the best 4k streaming for Netflix, Amazon, Youtube, etc... you should look into the Shield TV 2017 and keep your blu ray player for UHD discs only. 
Tis what i'm doing. Really enjoy the Shield. Works great and offers all the most popular streaming apps.


----------



## gizmo8500

Evan201 said:


> Honestly, If you want the best 4k streaming for Netflix, Amazon, Youtube, etc... you should look into the Shield TV 2017 and keep your blu ray player for UHD discs only.
> Tis what i'm doing. Really enjoy the Shield. Works great and offers all the most popular streaming apps.


That may be something I would consider.

Good news is the firmware update solved half the problem. The netflix menu and shows now display at 4K. It does not, however, display in HDR and it uses rec.709 color space. Not sure if there is an option in the projector I have to change for that to be available.


----------



## Don Draper

After a full week tweaking using many suggestions here and trying my own combos I have come up with some simple baseline level settings I would like to share for HDR.

Im at the shortest through for a 120" image in a light tight room (Matte black screen wall and ceiling, black carpet, and matte dark violet walls. These are tunes for low lamp but look great with high lamp as well. The PJ is pretty close to my MLP so the high option is out for me (which got me thinking , Ive switched fans on my outboard amps to quieter models, is this possible with the PJ? Has anyone tried?).

I cant believe I'm back to eyeballing settings (its beyond me why there is not test material available), but there are obvious tell tales you can use to get you on your way. I used two movies to come up with these Everest (for brightness) and (Revenant for shadow detail)

Anyways the key to these settings is the HDMI range - use "Extended" (I didn't want to because it seems I can get a better black levels out of normal , but blacks got crushed and upping gamma to compensate just flattened the top end) . 

These settings are for Digital Cinema - I played around with bright cinema and got more "pop", but after comparing the colors rendered in digital cinema its kinda hard to accept what bright cinema puts out - its not bad , but people aren't lying when they say digital is superior - its just more realistic - Everest was a good comparison for the two, the brightly colored cloths really tell the tale. Basically in BC every thing looks brand new and really saturated/bright, in DC you can tell they had been through the washing machine and weathered more than a few times . They looked more than one dimensional.

Starting with DC and AutoBright - using the early opening scene in everest , I raised the contrast until the brightest areas of the snow clipped. Then I lowered until clipping and blooming were gone and stopped at the point the picture got darker without exposing additional detail in the snow. Then using the revenant opening hunt scene I dropped black levels while just eeking details in the darkest areas, then I was able to go back to everst and raise contrast by the couple clicks i dropped black level without blowing out the highlights. This is what I ended up with. Ive tried them over several films and am very satisfied. 

Okay so here it is (Philips player)

HDMI Range:Extended
Digital Cinema/Autobright (HDR1)
Brightness - 48
Contrast - 68
Auto Iris OFF (Its behaving strangely for me on normal - on some scenes that could benefit from it being open all the way , it seemed to have settle on a mid range setting. I can see fast working and its unatural - besides I need all the shadow detail I can get). 

All else default (dropping gamma to minus one looks good but crushes some detail). You may want to bump color up a few notches to taste but I want to watch more films before I decide on doing so myself. Hope someone benefits from this.

PS - I Bought a samsung player yesterday hoping it had an option to force source direct (it does not  ). It disc SDR calibrated VERY DIFFERENTLY from the philips . This explained why some recommended picture settings I tried here were less than ideal. So beware YMMV.


----------



## Don Draper

gizmo8500 said:


> For anyone that has a Philips bdp7501, I need some help please.
> 
> I just setup my epson 5040UB, replacing my epson 8350. I am blown away at the brightness difference on my 160" screen, and black levels. Really loving the projector so far, but I have run into a problem.
> 
> I bought the Philips bdp7501 based on this forum saying it and the oppo are the most compatible with this projector. Unfortunately no matter what I do, I cannot get it to display 4K in youtube or netflix. It does display 4K in the menu for the player but it switches to 1080p for the menu's for youtube and netflix. Here are the things I have already done:
> 
> - Prior to purchasing the projector I upgraded my netflix to 4 screens and 4K level.
> - Choosing different 4K options that the Philips player offers (4:2:0/4:4:4 etc)
> - Firmware update from 1.04 to the latest.
> - Unplugging it and plugging back in (to ensure a complete power off vs just power save mode)
> - Ensuring the show I choose in netflix is in 4K and HDR
> - Internet bandwidth tests to ensure I have the bandwidth to stream 4K (I have 100 megabit and am getting full speed).
> 
> No matter what the projector shows it is 1920x1080 rec.709 8 bit when in the Netflix or youtube apps.
> 
> Btw, my theory is when it is working correctly it doesn't just go into 4K when showing a 4K show but that the netflix menu itself should come up in 4K...might be wrong, but would save me time in troubleshooting if I knew at what point I should see 4K.


Is the Player set to HDMI (auto)?
Are you using the correct HDMI port on the PJ?
Are you going through a receiver ? Is it set to Pass through? Are the HDMI ports format compliant?


----------



## TRRICHARD

I purchased the 5040 and seem to have a problem with the lens shift. I put it originally where I had my 8350 about 18 feet from the screen and about 76 inches high. My screen is 92 inches. 

Turned the projector on and got the focus and (forget the term) could get the screen larger and smaller, but no left or right and it would only move up and down about an inch or two. Thought maybe it was too far back so I have a stand that I put about 12 feet away and could get it to fill the screen only my moving the projector. Still no left or right adjust and a little more up and down but not much.

What am I missing or doing wrong - any help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Roger


----------



## taylor34

When would the next epson model be out? I'm trying to determine whether it would be worth it to wait until the next model or take the plunge now. I play like 90% games and 10% movies on it, 4k streaming isn't possible with my internet. I have a ps4 pro and will be getting the xbox scorpio when it comes out. I currently have the viewsonic pro8100, so not only am I behind in the 4k category, but picture-wise I'm 9 years behind.

I could use 4k now, but I'll use it more after the scorpio comes out
The nicer picture would be great, but not losing $1k on depreciation should I need the 4k HDR fix is also nice
I honestly don't know how big of a deal the 4k/HDR thing is. I haven't seen any HDR footage that makes me think I'm missing out on much. Games would be my only HDR source
$500 savings would also be nice. If the 5030 was 4k shifted I would totally buy it. Or if the 5040 could be had for $2k I'd also take the plunge.

Thoughts? It seems like the only major problem with buying now is the 4k/HDR bandwidth issue that will likely get fixed, but I honestly don't know how big of a deal that is.


----------



## Evan201

Don Draper said:


> After a full week tweaking using many suggestions here and trying my own combos I have come up with some simple baseline level settings I would like to share for HDR.
> 
> Im at the shortest through for a 120" image in a light tight room (Matte black screen wall and ceiling, black carpet, and matte dark violet walls. These are tunes for low lamp but look great with high lamp as well. The PJ is pretty close to my MLP so the high option is out for me (which got me thinking , Ive switched fans on my outboard amps to quieter models, is this possible with the PJ? Has anyone tried?).
> 
> I cant believe I'm back to eyeballing settings (its beyond me why there is not test material available), but there are obvious tell tales you can use to get you on your way. I used two movies to come up with these Everest (for brightness) and (Revenant for shadow detail)
> 
> Anyways the key to these settings is the HDMI range - use "Extended" (I didn't want to because it seems I can get a better black levels out of normal , but blacks got crushed and upping gamma to compensate just flattened the top end) .
> 
> These settings are for Digital Cinema - I played around with bright cinema and got more "pop", but after comparing the colors rendered in digital cinema its kinda hard to accept what bright cinema puts out - its not bad , but people aren't lying when they say digital is superior - its just more realistic - Everest was a good comparison for the two, the brightly colored cloths really tell the tale. Basically in BC every thing looks brand new and really saturated/bright, in DC you can tell they had been through the washing machine and weathered more than a few times . They looked more than one dimensional.
> 
> Starting with DC and AutoBright - using the early opening scene in everest , I raised the contrast until the brightest areas of the snow clipped. Then I lowered until clipping and blooming were gone and stopped at the point the picture got darker without exposing additional detail in the snow. Then using the revenant opening hunt scene I dropped black levels while just eeking details in the darkest areas, then I was able to go back to everst and raise contrast by the couple clicks i dropped black level without blowing out the highlights. This is what I ended up with. Ive tried them over several films and am very satisfied.
> 
> Okay so here it is (Philips player)
> 
> HDMI Range:Extended
> Digital Cinema/Autobright (HDR1)
> Brightness - 48
> Contrast - 68
> Auto Iris OFF (Its behaving strangely for me on normal - on some scenes that could benefit from it being open all the way , it seemed to have settle on a mid range setting. I can see fast working and its unatural - besides I need all the shadow detail I can get).
> 
> All else default (dropping gamma to minus one looks good but crushes some detail). You may want to bump color up a few notches to taste but I want to watch more films before I decide on doing so myself. Hope someone benefits from this.
> 
> PS - I Bought a samsung player yesterday hoping it had an option to force source direct (it does not  ). It disc SDR calibrated VERY DIFFERENTLY from the philips . This explained why some recommended picture settings I tried here were less than ideal. So beware YMMV.


We know screen shots aren't the best for accuracy, but can you post some? Really interested in that Digital Cinema setting you have there. Maybe Revenant after the beginning battle where he's dipping cover in the front of the boat going down the river with the rifle?


----------



## Evan201

HOLY SMOKES, 
Just fired up the Philips UHD player for the first time with Warcraft and Batman V. Superman as well as tried out some standard Blu Rays. 
I don't know how anyone could be upset with this rig. It's amazing and for sure bright enough. 
Batman V. Superman is definitely on the darker side, but Warcraft really pops out of the screen. And I'm even using a Cinegrey 5d which i hear is negative gain. Still looks great! 

EDIT: Batman V. Superman looks way better with the Natural Mode and custom gamma settings from earlier in the thread. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-158.html#post49595329
Warcraft UHD 
screen capture windows

post images

Batman V. Superman UHD
photo uploading

Here's my settings with custom Gamma taken from another user. 
image hosting over 5mb

upload an image


----------



## cappy83

[QUOTE

Im at the shortest through for a 120" image in a light tight room (Matte black screen wall and ceiling, black carpet, and matte dark violet walls. [/QUOTE]

If I might ask what throw distance are you at? I got mine mounted and have to end up sending it back anyway(dead pixel) and mounted it 12.5 ft away and according to epson my throw should be long enough for 120" screen but it's not..... Was trying to see how much further back I need to mount it when the replacement comes back.

Thanks
Sean


----------



## k3nnis

cappy83 said:


> [QUOTE
> 
> 
> 
> Im at the shortest through for a 120" image in a light tight room (Matte black screen wall and ceiling, black carpet, and matte dark violet walls.




If I might ask what throw distance are you at? I got mine mounted and have to end up turning it anyway(dead pixel) and minted it 12.5 ft away and according to epson my throw should be ling enough for 120" screen but it's not..... Was trying to see how much further back I need to mount it when the replacement comes back.



Thanks

Sean[/QUOTE]


Are you 12.5 feet from Lens to screen?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cappy83

k3nnis said:


> If I might ask what throw distance are you at? I got mine mounted and have to end up turning it anyway(dead pixel) and minted it 12.5 ft away and according to epson my throw should be ling enough for 120" screen but it's not..... Was trying to see how much further back I need to mount it when the replacement comes back.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sean



Are you 12.5 feet from Lens to screen?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

12.3 ft to be exact.....When I get my image centered and focused with no keystone adjustments I get an even border on all 4 sides of about 1/4th of an inch. It will not zoom out any further.


----------



## ac388

*Kodi addon*

Thanks for your tip n I did watch the whole video. After installing those addons, like Falcon or even Phoneix now, they need 'Real-Debris' subscription in order to watch those 4k movies. Any tips to go around that, since I don't believe those are 4k Iso files n worth paying for.

Appreciate your help on this.





Evan201 said:


> ac388 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Which Addon is it ? DNA ? R ? Tks.
> 
> 
> Here: 5 add ons with how to install
> All offer 4k movies.
> 
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EgI76h4sldE
Click to expand...


----------



## Snoogleheimer

TRRICHARD said:


> I purchased the 5040 and seem to have a problem with the lens shift. I put it originally where I had my 8350 about 18 feet from the screen and about 76 inches high. My screen is 92 inches.
> 
> Turned the projector on and got the focus and (forget the term) could get the screen larger and smaller, but no left or right and it would only move up and down about an inch or two. Thought maybe it was too far back so I have a stand that I put about 12 feet away and could get it to fill the screen only my moving the projector. Still no left or right adjust and a little more up and down but not much.
> 
> What am I missing or doing wrong - any help is appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Roger


Something is definitely wrong. I'd call support.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Kinda hard to be real precise with 'lens focus'.


----------



## philipbtz

philipbtz said:


> I have the TW9300(ub6040) with Linker and Nvidi Shield v2 16GB and I also have issues getting HDR to work with Netflix Ultra. The projector is running the 1.09 firmware and the Shield is all latest as far as I know. Are all UHD shows with HDR or only some? I'm running 24Hz with BT2020 4:2:2. I even tried to force HDR on with the Linker but I can see in the Linker program that no HDR is being sent from Netflix. I have HDR from One S and Kodi btw so I know it works in other situations. Has it to do with it being Dolby Vision and not HDR10?


I got this working last night. I don't know what fixed it really. I went in to the Netflix homepage and re-saved the "high quality" setting. I also disabled forced HDR in my Linker. For some reason it just works now. The Linker is a little bit buggy imo. Right now I'm getting 2160p BT2020 4:2:2 even when I'm playing a BD so something is up there. And since the projector thinks it's 4k I can't turn off e-shift. Not that I really want to but it would be nice to have the option. More testing of the Linker settings are needed. It seems to show the Rec. 709 color space properly even though it says it has a BT2020 signal in. I dunno it's all beta at this point imo.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Any PS4 Pro owners with Linker/Integral? I cant get RGB color & no HDR with 4K,, is it worth getting the Linker for these?


----------



## gizmo8500

Don Draper said:


> Anyways the key to these settings is the HDMI range - use "Extended" (I didn't want to because it seems I can get a better black levels out of normal , but blacks got crushed and upping gamma to compensate just flattened the top end) .


I don't fully understand this. I played around with extended last night and I thought it looked terrible. Everything is washed out and the blacks are very bright. Are you only using this setting on HDR sources or for everything? Are you also applying the HDR-1 mode to SDR sources? I did noticed that everything is made very dark when choosing extended and then HDR-1 with an SDR signal. Is extended the only way to get HDR?


----------



## dholmes54

It was mentioned several pages back,but can't find it,what are we trying for with this projector 444 2020 or 709 422 with HDR that you like 1234.


----------



## Don Draper

Evan201 said:


> We know screen shots aren't the best for accuracy, but can you post some? Really interested in that Digital Cinema setting you have there. Maybe Revenant after the beginning battle where he's dipping cover in the front of the boat going down the river with the rifle?


I'll use my slr to snap some pics later..don't trust the phone.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Draper

cappy83 said:


> [QUOTE
> 
> Im at the shortest through for a 120" image in a light tight room (Matte black screen wall and ceiling, black carpet, and matte dark violet walls.


If I might ask what throw distance are you at? I got mine mounted and have to end up sending it back anyway(dead pixel) and mounted it 12.5 ft away and according to epson my throw should be long enough for 120" screen but it's not..... Was trying to see how much further back I need to mount it when the replacement comes back.

Thanks
Sean[/QUOTE]
Will measure later , but I do have a negligible border.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Draper

gizmo8500 said:


> I don't fully understand this. I played around with extended last night and I thought it looked terrible. Everything is washed out and the blacks are very bright. Are you only using this setting on HDR sources or for everything? Are you also applying the HDR-1 mode to SDR sources? I did noticed that everything is made very dark when choosing extended and then HDR-1 with an SDR signal. Is extended the only way to get HDR?


The settings I posted are for hdr content using hdr1 with the philips player. Your content and source determines when you get HDR, not a projector setting. 

I've also calibrated for SDR materials using the extended settings , cimema and the S&M disc. The settings of course are very different with numbers for black level much lower. You are going to need two different settings for SDR and hdr. The recommendation is digital cinema for hdr and cinema for sdr/ rec 709.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## gizmo8500

Don Draper said:


> The settings I posted are for hdr content using hdr1 with the philips player. Your content and source determines when you get HDR, not a projector setting.
> 
> I've also calibrated for SDR materials using the extended settings , cimema and the S&M disc. The settings of course are very different with numbers for black level much lower. You are going to need two different settings for SDR and hdr. The recommendation is digital cinema for hdr and cinema for sdr/ rec 709.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Ok that makes sense. I have the Philips player too. I got 4K working on Netflix last night. Have you figured out how to get Netflix to display HDR or the bt.2020 color?


----------



## Don Draper

gizmo8500 said:


> Ok that makes sense. I have the Philips player too. I got 4K working on Netflix last night. Have you figured out how to get Netflix to display HDR or the bt.2020 color?


Nope. 709 ,sdr for me since day 1. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Craig Peer

Don Draper said:


> If I might ask what throw distance are you at? I got mine mounted and have to end up sending it back anyway(dead pixel) and mounted it 12.5 ft away and according to epson my throw should be long enough for 120" screen but it's not..... Was trying to see how much further back I need to mount it when the replacement comes back.
> 
> Thanks
> Sean


Will measure later , but I do have a negligible border.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]



For a 120" diagonal 16:9 screen, your throw distance is - Throw distance (L)	11' 9.9" - 24' 10" 

https://files.support.epson.com/pdc/eai/html5/index.html

12' lens to screen should work - 12.5' should be plenty. Better double check the lens to screen measurement.


----------



## gene4ht

Don Draper said:


> If I might ask what throw distance are you at? I got mine mounted and have to end up sending it back anyway(dead pixel) and mounted it 12.5 ft away and according to epson my throw should be long enough for 120" screen but it's not..... Was trying to see how much further back I need to mount it when the replacement comes back.





Craig Peer said:


> For a 120" diagonal 16:9 screen, your throw distance is - Throw distance (L) 11' 9.9" - 24' 10"
> 
> https://files.support.epson.com/pdc/eai/html5/index.html
> 
> 12' lens to screen should work - 12.5' should be plenty. Better double check the lens to screen measurement.


Something is amiss...my lens to screen (115" *diagonal*) distance is exactly 12' so 120" *diagonal* at 12.5" should be very doable.


----------



## migsta

On the Shield now, when watching movie from Plex or Kodi, I am getting the odd "no signal" and it goes black and comes back within 5 seconds. I have not experienced this on my HTPC, TiVo or UB900 UHD player at all. I noticed it started to happen with the Shield when I switched it's video display to 4K in the settings area. Is this a cable issue perhaps? I am using a 40ft Cinnamon Audioquest which appears to have given me no problem with 4K. The other issue I have noticed is that flipping between sources sometimes does not default my UB900 to 4K. It reads 1080p so I end up having to reset the projector to get it to recognize a 4K signal with the UB900 as the source.

What do I need specifically to run HDMI 4K using CAT6 from the Epson to the Preamp & sure to work.


----------



## Don Draper

Something odd to share about the samsung. I decided to give it another go before deciding if i'm going to return it. I used the technique I mentioned before to tune for HDR and ended up with similar numbers but a result that was dimmer to the eye overall and with less detail at both the top and bottom end. Contrast ended up at 69 and brightness ended up 46. It basically appears that the samsung starts to clip before it achieves a level of brightness similar to the philips' clipping point. The samsung does have picture controls which I suspect can be used to coax more out of it, but without a proper calibration techniques I prefer to return it and settle in with what I achieved on the philips. I did notice the samsung handles motion a bit better than the philips.


----------



## cchrono

Can anybody share their recommended settings for a bright room. I have looked through this thread pretty thoroughly and there are not a lot of recommend sdr settings period. More so geared towards hdr. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Don Draper

cchrono said:


> Can anybody share their recommended settings for a bright room. I have looked through this thread pretty thoroughly and there are not a lot of recommend sdr settings period. More so geared towards hdr.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Its best to use a test disk/patterns for sdr. Unless you are looking for recommendations on gamma , color temp, and tone - which i wouldnt mind getting either. But if your room is bright , you'll want a disk to set your baseline.


----------



## cchrono

I have tried using my S&P disc. Just wondering what others are using as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Don Draper

cchrono said:


> I have tried using my S&P disc. Just wondering what others are using as well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I dont think SDR gets talked about because its hands down gorgeous - evidenced by some folks even stripping hdr in favour of it. Good HDR on the other hand is the holy grail and most of us are flying blind.


----------



## cchrono

Don Draper said:


> I dont think SDR gets talked about because its hands down gorgeous - evidenced by some folks even stripping hdr in favour of it. Good HDR on the other hand is the holy grail and most of us are flying blind.




I have it looking really good for blu ray movies. Just feel like I could be getting more out of it with the lights on and my tivo bolt. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Ok, messed with blanking. Didn't seem to do anything. It didn't black out the pixels when in 2.35:1 aspect mode. After researching past posts, I found others have noticed the same thing. So, what is the purpose of blanking? I was just thinking, I noticed when in 2.35:1 mode, some PJ on-screen adjustments are off-screen. Does blanking put them on the 2.35:1 screen? Is that the purpose? I guess I could download another movie and find out myself. lol


----------



## aaranddeeman

Snoogleheimer said:


> Ok, messed with blanking. Didn't seem to do anything. It didn't black out the pixels when in 2.35:1 aspect mode. After researching past posts, I found others have noticed the same thing. So, what is the purpose of blanking? I was just thinking, I noticed when in 2.35:1 mode, some PJ on-screen adjustments are off-screen. Does blanking put them on the 2.35:1 screen? Is that the purpose? I guess I could download another movie and find out myself. lol


It's only useful for CIH screens to manage (or more so hide anything beyond 2.35:1 from spillover from) MAR content.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

aaranddeeman said:


> It's only useful for CIH screens to manage (or more so hide anything beyond 2.35:1 from spillover from) MAR content.


Boy, that went right over my head. lol I will take your word for it, however, because I am too tired right now to search what you are talking about.


----------



## spirithockey79

Snoogleheimer said:


> Boy, that went right over my head. lol I will take your word for it, however, because I am too tired right now to search what you are talking about.




I have a scope screen (mine is 2.35:1). When I watch a movie that switches aspect ratio like TDK or Star Trek Into Darkness the 16x9 shots (essentially IMAX shots) will spill over the screen on the top & bottom (doesn't look great & can be distracting). With the blanking feature, this spillover is eliminated so the entire film fits into the screen setup. This of course means we are not seeing everything that was filmed in the IMAX shots, but it's better than having part of the picture spilling onto the wall.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

spirithockey79 said:


> I have a scope screen (mine is 2.35:1). When I watch a movie that switches aspect ratio like TDK or Star Trek Into Darkness the 16x9 shots (essentially IMAX shots) will spill over the screen on the top & bottom (doesn't look great & can be distracting). With the blanking feature, this spillover is eliminated so the entire film fits into the screen setup. This of course means we are not seeing everything that was filmed in the IMAX shots, but it's better than having part of the picture spilling onto the wall.


I thought that was what 'lens shift' was for? In fact, I have mine in memory. ?


----------



## Evan201

Well, decided to do my own comparison with UHD vs. BD using Oblivion. 
The two formats have my own calibration for each SDR and HDR so they aren't equal factory settings. 
Here's my opinion, if you REALLY love the movie, spend the extra $10 and get the UHD disk BD combo for that flick. 
When having people over to show off your gear too, play the BD version. When alone and in a bat cave, watch UHD. The pop is just show much brighter on the BD. The next decision is to jump into stripping HDR or not on 4k discs. 1080 upscaled looks damn fine to me. 
Screenshots are from my iPhone on cinegrey 5d. Using Philips UHD player which upscales. BD color is 
8 bit 4:4:4 rec 709. UHD is 12 bit 4:2:2 rec 2020










upload gif from url


----------



## Cramer86

You guys prefer the super white setting toggled on or off?


----------



## philipbtz

Cramer86 said:


> You guys prefer the super white setting toggled on or off?


Off


----------



## Cramer86

philipbtz said:


> Off


You watch HDR or SDR?


----------



## spirithockey79

Snoogleheimer said:


> I thought that was what 'lens shift' was for? In fact, I have mine in memory. ?




No, auto lens shift/zoom/focus let's you easily change the screen size to the material you are going to watch (like a 2.35 or 1.78 movie), but that is a fixed ratio. It doesn't switch back and forth when movies have a changing aspect ratio, so blanking allows those movies to fit within the 2.35 picture you've set. The movie will still change aspect ratios, you just won't be able to tell when blanking is set properly.


----------



## philipbtz

Cramer86 said:


> You watch HDR or SDR?


I watch both but haven't played around with that setting in HDR. With SDR I thouht it looked best without. Maybe I should try it out some more.


---

So as I've seen mentioned before these projectors make a high pitched sound when e-shift is enabled. At first I thought I would get use to this noise but now I'm not too sure anymore. I have the projector right over my head on a home made shelf. I'm thinking I should build sides so it becomes more more of a box. Since the vent is in the front it shouldn't be a problem. I hope it helps otherwise I'm not sure what to do. The fan is whisper quiet in ECO mode which I run the projector in so this is sort of annoying  

Anyone else find this sound annoying?


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

philipbtz said:


> I watch both but haven't played around with that setting in HDR. With SDR I thouht it looked best without. Maybe I should try it out some more.
> 
> 
> ---
> 
> So as I've seen mentioned before these projectors make a high pitched sound when e-shift is enabled. At first I thought I would get use to this noise but now I'm not too sure anymore. I have the projector right over my head on a home made shelf. I'm thinking I should build sides so it becomes more more of a box. Since the vent is in the front it shouldn't be a problem. I hope it helps otherwise I'm not sure what to do. The fan is whisper quiet in ECO mode which I run the projector in so this is sort of annoying
> 
> Anyone else find this sound annoying?


The sound is annoying, but I've slowly gotten used to it. For me it occurs with eshift or 4k60 content. Speaking of 4k, I've finally abandoned the wireless transmitter, and now officially regret going for the UBe. I took my fiber hdmi and ran it through the wall to the projector. Attached to hdmi 1, 4k is now working as expected on the pj (i.e. no signal drops).

I'm gonna send my wireless transmitter in for replacement, but even if a new one works, I'm sticking with wired if for no other reason than how much more quickly source and display mode switching is. Using the wireless transmitter can make switching resolution in pc games a hassle, since it takes so long to reconnect after you change resolutions that the image doesn't come back up in time to accept the confirmation prompts most games put up to confirm changes. Seems like a small thing, but it was a annoying.


----------



## elmalloc

What disc do you guys use for calibration?

A lot of your settings are way too bright for my setup, my Epson is 10ft 10" away from a 110" screen (too many 10s lol). But I noticed my PQ is a lot better when I use your settings and just dial down the brightness fro 52 to 17 or so, which means I'm getting way too many lumens to the screen.

So I'd like to try a simple calibration. Otherwise I'm going to have to go ISF, I have a saved memory mode for what I think looks good for each device right now.

Thanks!


----------



## gizmo8500

elmalloc said:


> What disc do you guys use for calibration?
> 
> A lot of your settings are way too bright for my setup, my Epson is 10ft 10" away from a 110" screen (too many 10s lol). But I noticed my PQ is a lot better when I use your settings and just dial down the brightness fro 52 to 17 or so, which means I'm getting way too many lumens to the screen.
> 
> So I'd like to try a simple calibration. Otherwise I'm going to have to go ISF, I have a saved memory mode for what I think looks good for each device right now.
> 
> Thanks!


If you're viewing HDR you want all the lumens you can get. The whole problem is getting it calibrated with the limited light available from a projector.

You can use a different, dimmer setting, for SDR content if it's too bright.


----------



## elmalloc

gizmo8500 said:


> If you're viewing HDR you want all the lumens you can get. The whole problem is getting it calibrated with the limited light available from a projector.
> 
> You can use a different, dimmer setting, for SDR content if it's too bright.


Makes sense. I watched the martian in UHD/HDR and it was barely bright enough if I put the projector in high lamp mode, but definitely for SDR those settings are too bright. 

I'll try some more HDR tonight. It's really such a tease to see HDR working as it should, but in some instances barely good enough.


----------



## Don Draper

elmalloc said:


> Makes sense. I watched the martian in UHD/HDR and it was barely bright enough if I put the projector in high lamp mode, but definitely for SDR those settings are too bright.
> 
> I'll try some more HDR tonight. It's really such a tease to see HDR working as it should, but in some instances barely good enough.


A lot of the settings being posted are for HDR only. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

Don Draper said:


> A lot of the settings being posted are for HDR only.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


OK, great! I go back to my original question then. *What are people using to calibrating settings for SDR,* or does anyone else have similar SDR settings to share? It's just a starting point but I did go about 30 minutes using the HDR settings for SDR content and knew something was off (haha).

I use the projector for both SDR and HDR, since most games are not HDR yet. Horizon Dawn looks pretty good with HDR settings, though.


----------



## Don Draper

elmalloc said:


> OK, great! I go back to my original question then. *What are people using to calibrating settings for SDR,* or does anyone else have similar SDR settings to share? It's just a starting point but I did go about 30 minutes using the HDR settings for SDR content and knew something was off (haha).
> 
> I use the projector for both SDR and HDR, since most games are not HDR yet. Horizon Dawn looks pretty good with HDR settings, though.


I use Spears and musil. I own DVE as well , but found that my highlights were getting blown out using it. It seems S&Ms contrast pattern allows finer adjustment. One thing I noticed that does not happen on my 5010 is that brightness setting interferes with the contrast settings a fair bit. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

Don Draper said:


> I use Spears and musil. I own DVE as well , but found that my highlights were getting blown out using it. It seems S&Ms contrast pattern allows finer adjustment. One thing I noticed that does not happen on my 5010 is that brightness setting interferes with the contrast settings a fair bit.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Excellent, thanks! Yeah, I'm definitely getting black crush, white crush with some settings I've been playing with (especially in games, I'm not able to get contrast correct according to the game). I'll try Spears and Munsil out.


----------



## BRADH

elmalloc said:


> Excellent, thanks! Yeah, I'm definitely getting black crush, white crush with some settings I've been playing with (especially in games, I'm not able to get contrast correct according to the game). I'll try Spears and Munsil out.



I found using extended HDMI super white off. I have no black crush or white. You will have to bring down you brightness and contrast levels. I used DVE and Spears and Munsil both will pass whiter than white and blacker than black. 


Brad


----------



## Don Draper

I tried to use my 5010 and PlayStation 3d glasses. None worked. Is there anything I should know about. Neither have a pairing button.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

Don Draper said:


> I tried to use my 5010 and PlayStation 3d glasses. None worked. Is there anything I should know about. Neither have a pairing button.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


The 5040/6040 projectors use RF for 3D. The 5010 and Playstation use IR. Sorry, but you'll need to buy new RF 3D glasses. Search this thread or look in the mini wiki in my signature for recommendations.

I've been seeing quite a bit of crosstalk on some 3D material using the 3rd party glasses I have (never noticed any issues with my 6010). I called Epson about this and they claim there shouldn't be any crosstalk with Epson 3D glasses. Too bad because those are quite a bit more expensive. Epson says they are looking further into this issue now. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## Don Draper

seplant said:


> The 5040/6040 projectors use RF for 3D. The 5010 and Playstation use IR. Sorry, but you'll need to buy new RF 3D glasses. Search this thread or look in the mini wiki in my signature for recommendations.
> 
> I've been seeing quite a bit of crosstalk on some 3D material using the 3rd party glasses I have (never noticed any issues with my 6010). I called Epson about this and they claim there shouldn't be any crosstalk with Epson 3D glasses. Too bad because those are quite a bit more expensive. Epson says they are looking further into this issue now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Ugh..thanks.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Snoogleheimer

spirithockey79 said:


> No, auto lens shift/zoom/focus let's you easily change the screen size to the material you are going to watch (like a 2.35 or 1.78 movie), but that is a fixed ratio. It doesn't switch back and forth when movies have a changing aspect ratio, so blanking allows those movies to fit within the 2.35 picture you've set. The movie will still change aspect ratios, you just won't be able to tell when blanking is set properly.


Ok, got it now. Just need to set back to zero after each movie, otherwise, you could be losing information. _(Lens Adjust then Blank Set. If you so desire)_


----------



## spirithockey79

Snoogleheimer said:


> Ok, got it now. Just need to set back to zero after each movie, otherwise, you could be losing information. _(Lens Adjust then Blank Set. If you so desire)_




Correct. If you set blanking, then watch a movie with a ratio smaller than your scope screen settings you will lose information at the top and bottom. I wish Epson would allow you to save blanking settings to memory. It's a pain resetting back and forth!


----------



## john barlow

Don Draper said:


> Ugh..thanks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I use these from Amazon. They work great and you save money for 4k discs. Epson compatible Value Vue 3D Glasses. Cheers. 
Click to open expanded view 

ValueView 

* Epson-Compatible ValueView® 3D Glasses. Rechargeable. TWIN-PACK *







Click to open expanded view 

ValueView 

* Epson-Compatible ValueView® 3D Glasses. Rechargeable. TWIN-PACK *


----------



## rmilyard

Ok so what the heck! I didn't change anything. Nor do I see Netflix updating. I did email 2rd Level support and asked me few questions. Today I am getting HDR from Netflix again with firmware 1.09.


----------



## k3nnis

rmilyard said:


> Ok so what the heck! I didn't change anything. Nor do I see Netflix updating. I did email 2rd Level support and asked me few questions. Today I am getting HDR from Netflix again with firmware 1.09.




What player? Nvidia shield set at 24Hz?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

elmalloc said:


> OK, great! I go back to my original question then. *What are people using to calibrating settings for SDR,* or does anyone else have similar SDR settings to share? It's just a starting point but I did go about 30 minutes using the HDR settings for SDR content and knew something was off (haha).
> 
> 
> 
> I use the projector for both SDR and HDR, since most games are not HDR yet. Horizon Dawn looks pretty good with HDR settings, though.




Is that a screen innovations screen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

k3nnis said:


> Is that a screen innovations screen?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi,

It is, but not a black diamond. It's the SI zero edge Pure white (110" 16x9). 

I used samples of BD and pure white, and this room is mainly used for gaming. It's really tough to choose between a small sample for any screen, I would have loved to see a full size BD in this room before making a decision, but the majority of time there's not a lot of ambient light issues so I chose the pure white for some gain. IMO, the non BD screens they make are more reasonably priced, but still expensive. At the time, zero edge was not done from any other manufacturers that I knew of, so I was OK with the price, which was at the top end of what might consider the "cheap" section of a screen budget.


----------



## elmalloc

seplant said:


> The 5040/6040 projectors use RF for 3D. The 5010 and Playstation use IR. Sorry, but you'll need to buy new RF 3D glasses. Search this thread or look in the mini wiki in my signature for recommendations.
> 
> I've been seeing quite a bit of crosstalk on some 3D material using the 3rd party glasses I have (never noticed any issues with my 6010). I called Epson about this and they claim there shouldn't be any crosstalk with Epson 3D glasses. Too bad because those are quite a bit more expensive. Epson says they are looking further into this issue now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


I have not tried 3D yet. I had the first Epson projector that incorporated 3D (I forget the model number, something like 3050) and it had really bad cross talk.

I returned it for an Optoma HD33 (which was a competitor at the time). Virtually no crosstalk.

I stlil have the Optoma's RF glasses, I'll update you how I think crosstalk works once I get a chance to try 3D on the 5040.


----------



## k3nnis

elmalloc said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> It is, but not a black diamond. It's the SI zero edge Pure white (110" 16x9).
> 
> 
> 
> I used samples of BD and pure white, and this room is mainly used for gaming. It's really tough to choose between a small sample for any screen, I would have loved to see a full size BD in this room before making a decision, but the majority of time there's not a lot of ambient light issues so I chose the pure white for some gain.




Ok thanks. Is it too bright because of the screen as well? I know you are at max zoom but just wondering is it because of the screen as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

The screen could have a factor. In this setup, a black diamond or zero gain screen could help. In general, if you have to have a problem, too bright is better than too dim. There are many things we can do to combat "too bright", especially if it's even uniformity.

A long time ago, I decided I preferred a slightly brighter picture than deep blacks. After seeing the better CR of the Epson, I would like to have HDR/higher CR working (lol).

I have a Sim2 in another setup that still produces a very nice film like picture. It doesn't do well in movies like Harry Potter that are full of dark areas, where a JVC probably loves to live. But I would stack it up against any other projector in normal--> bright scenes. That's where my decision on preferring a brighter image laid, before. Nowadays I think we want it all. 

I believe there is no day we will say "yes, this is the perfect picture". 

The best thing I've found that dictates if you are happy with your hardware, is if you stop playing with settings, reading AVSforum periodically, and start experiencing movies without recognizing where your speakers are (imaging) or that something is being projected. I think we've all been there before and we constantly search for it again in some fashion.

I didn't visit this forum for at least 4 years and I consider that as an accomplishment.


----------



## k3nnis

elmalloc said:


> The screen could have a factor. In this setup, a black diamond or zero gain screen could help. In general, if you have to have a problem, too bright is better than too dim. There are many things we can do to combat "too bright", especially if it's even uniformity.
> 
> 
> 
> A long time ago, I decided I preferred a slightly brighter picture than deep blacks. After seeing the better CR of the Epson, I would like to have HDR/higher CR working (lol).
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Sim2 in another setup that still produces a very nice film like picture. It doesn't do well in movies like Harry Potter that are fill of dark areas, where a JVC probably loves to live. But I would stack it up against any other projector in normal--> bright scenes. That's where my decision on preferring a brighter image laid, before. Nowadays I think we want it all.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe there is no day we will say "yes, this is the perfect picture".
> 
> 
> 
> The best thing I've found that dictates if you are happy with your hardware, is if you stop playing with settings, reading AVSforum periodically, and start experiencing movies without recognizing where your speakers are (imaging) or that something is being projected. I think we've all been there before and we constantly search for it again in some fashion.




Agree with you. Which sim2 do you have? Crystal ? I saw a shop still selling a crystal 35 demo unit but it needs a fairly long throw. I heard these are rebadged benq .....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

k3nnis said:


> Agree with you. Which sim2 do you have? Crystal ? I saw a shop still selling a crystal 35 demo unit but it needs a fairly long throw. I heard these are rebadged benq .....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's an HT380. So I research that rebadged BENQ stuff, I think it's true, but not for their full model line.

To me it's like toyota/lexus/etc. They're all the same, but some have higher quality/better performing parts/QA done and are more of a "prosumer" than "consumer" line.

I've stacked my earlier epsons, panasonics, and optomas against the Sim2 and there is a difference (DLP vs. LCD in some come into play). Question is how much, diminishing returns on improvements is the game we all must play. In general I'm just looking for "damn, I'm happy" with that picture feeling, as we all do.

I had a JVC RS1 for a month or so before getting the Sim2. JVC had the black levels right from the get go, they immediately became the leader of digital blacks (vs CRTs) and are probably still in the lead. I was happy to learn what the heck people talk about when they say JVC blacks, but again, I chose the Sim2 for a different reason.

Nowadays, I would like to have it all.


----------



## rmilyard

k3nnis said:


> What player? Nvidia shield set at 24Hz?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Yes sheild @24hz


----------



## k3nnis

elmalloc said:


> It's an HT380. So I research that rebadged BENQ stuff, I think it's true, but not for their full model line.
> 
> 
> 
> To me it's like toyota/lexus/etc. They're all the same, but some have higher quality/better performing parts/QA done and are more of a "prosumer" than "consumer" line.
> 
> 
> 
> I've stacked my earlier epsons, panasonics, and optomas against the Sim2 and there is a difference (DLP vs. LCD in some come into play). Question is how much, diminishing returns on improvements is the game we all must play. In general I'm just looking for "damn, I'm happy" with that picture feeling, as we all do.
> 
> 
> 
> I had a JVC RS1 for a month or so before getting the Sim2. JVC had the black levels right from the get go, they immediately became the leader of digital blacks (vs CRTs) and are probably still in the lead. I was happy to learn what the heck people talk about when they say JVC blacks, but again, I chose the Sim2 for a different reason.
> 
> 
> 
> Nowadays, I would like to have it all.




What does the sim2 have over the jvc and Epson?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## webmst

I was not happy with the projector noise overhead so I moved it an additional 1 metre back - behind the rear wall into the next room.
Created a relatively small access "port" in the wall - and - bingo - no more noise and no complex hush box build in the theatre room.
So the rear room (bed room) gets a projector on its wall ( not an issue for me) 
Everything is a compromise - I'll probalby have to pump this up to Bright Cinema all the time. ( 6 m back from a curved Screen Research 2:35:1 125" screen) but on the plus side now I can run it in bright cinema or any other mode/setup without worrying about noise output.
Which for HDR reproduction and this particular projector is a good thing.
NOTE - I've built hush boxes for CRT in the past and a good one needs to include hot/cold air management if it's inside the theatre room. Don't underestimate the work involved getting that right ( check other threads on hush box building). 
From my experiments "A bit of foam " and a extra piece of MDF around a ceiling mounted unit or attached to a rear shelf will not help noise at the seating area much at all.

I've concluded if you need to stick with a ceiling mount/ rear shelf (or are restricted to) and want to seriously remove the projector noise from the room, you will need to consider a serious hush box and an active air flow system (into ceiling cavity etc).
It was a lot easier for me just to work out how to do a "hole in the wall" as neatly as possible  (pics to follow tomorrow)


----------



## Don Draper

webmst said:


> I was not happy with the projector noise overhead so I moved it an additional 1 metre back - behind the rear wall into the next room.
> Created a relatively small access "port" in the wall - and - bingo - no more noise and no complex hush box build in the theatre room.
> So the rear room (bed room) gets a projector on its wall ( not an issue for me)
> Everything is a compromise - I'll probalby have to pump this up to Bright Cinema all the time. ( 6 m back from a curved Screen Research 2:35:1 125" screen) but on the plus side now I can run it in bright cinema or any other mode/setup without worrying about noise output.
> Which for HDR reproduction and this particular projector is a good thing.
> NOTE - I've built hush boxes for CRT in the past and a good one needs to include hot/cold air management if it's inside the theatre room. Don't underestimate the work involved getting that right ( check other threads on hush box building).
> From my experiments "A bit of foam " and a extra piece of MDF around a ceiling mounted unit or attached to a rear shelf will not help noise at the seating area much at all.
> 
> I've concluded if you need to stick with a ceiling mount/ rear shelf (or are restricted to) and want to seriously remove the projector noise from the room, you will need to consider a serious hush box and an active air flow system (into ceiling cavity etc).
> It was a lot easier for me just to work out how to do a "hole in the wall" as neatly as possible  (pics to follow tomorrow)


Anyone tried to mod the fan itself?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## webmst

I'm not certain that with various functions running, all the extra noise is a direct result of the fan alone, the "whine" that is referred to (4K enhancement; e-shift) may not be that item. 
You can "test" fan noise by turning on the "High Altitude" mode which runs the fan at a higher tempo (designed for operations above 5,000ft - according to the manual). 
Perhaps someone had taken the unit apart to see the unit operate without covers - that might be an interesting exercise.


----------



## iastater09

Need some advice here:
Have a 5040ub with a elite aeon cinegray3d 150" screen. I need advice on where to mount the projector. The screen is a 1.2 gain ALR screen so advises 1.5 times screen width which would be close to 16' 5". I have a stud at 16'5" but then the lens would be closer than that. The outlet and HDMI passthrough are next to this stud. I could also go one stud back and mount at 17' 7" (yes 14" difference) but electrical and HDMI will be at 16' 5".

Would I get hotspots if I mount at 16'5" (then the lens would be closer than the recommended 1.5 screen width)?

Or should mount on the 17'7" stud to make sure I follow the screen recommendation? I could then run the HDMI and power above the projector to where they are located near 16'5".

Thanks in advance. Will be mounting Friday. Appreciate the input.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Ok, bought a Sony UBP-X800 today. Got home, hooked it up, put in 'The Revenant'.........WOW! Finally was able to use HDR1. Probably wouldn't have been able to if I had watched it in the daytime. Anyway, very happy with this PJ and I don't even have a screen yet. lol Gotta wait a couple weeks for that. Life just keeps getting better.










p.s. As far as the movie goes; thought it was pretty good. Sure was a lot of blood and gore though. BTW, I thought 'Mad Max: Fury Road' was absolutely terrible. Could only watch 2/3 of it. Why did everyone think it was such an awesome movie?


----------



## Snoogleheimer

elmalloc said:


> I use the projector for both SDR and HDR, since most games are not HDR yet. Horizon Dawn looks pretty good with HDR settings, though.


Man, that's a sweet picture you're getting. I need to get a screen. lol


----------



## ac388

Not too long ago in this forum, somebody suggested Bright Cinema for HDR. I tried it n it certainly has more than enough lumen for calibration. Why still Digital Cinema for HDR ?




gizmo8500 said:


> If you're viewing HDR you want all the lumens you can get. The whole problem is getting it calibrated with the limited light available from a projector.
> 
> You can use a different, dimmer setting, for SDR content if it's too bright.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

ac388 said:


> Not too long ago in this forum, somebody suggested Bright Cinema for HDR. I tried it n it certainly has more than enough lumen for calibration. Why still Digital Cinema for HDR ?


Bright Cinema is what I use.


----------



## Don Draper

ac388 said:


> Not too long ago in this forum, somebody suggested Bright Cinema for HDR. I tried it n it certainly has more than enough lumen for calibration. Why still Digital Cinema for HDR ?


Color accuracy and cinema filter. Not everyones setup will be able to take advantage due to reduced lumens. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## darkangelism

Is SDE less noticeable with 4k enhancement? Looking at a 120" screen sitting 11 feet back, which is closer than "recommended" for 1080p


----------



## ac388

Thanks for the input. So you meant Bright Cinema doesn't have the filter as well as accuracy on the color, right ? What's the use of that filter ?





Don Draper said:


> Color accuracy and cinema filter. Not everyones setup will be able to take advantage due to reduced lumens.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

ac388 said:


> Thanks for the input. So you meant Bright Cinema doesn't have the filter as well as accuracy on the color, right ? What's the use of that filter ?


The filter helps to get DCI-P3 color space which is wider than REC.709
Cinema and Digital Cinema are very close in color accuracy out of box.
Bright cinema will need tweaking (and will need measuring equipment) to tune the color accuracy. Not that it is bad, but can get much better. Again it will be only Rec.709 though.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Well, I wanted to test how bright this PJ really is, so, I stared right into the lens. Holy crap! Take my word for it, it's really bright.


----------



## HarleyRider

ac388 said:


> Not too long ago in this forum, somebody suggested Bright Cinema for HDR. I tried it n it certainly has more than enough lumen for calibration. Why still Digital Cinema for HDR ?


I think mainly for color accuracy. I've been using Bright Cinema, but I've been trying to calibrate the primaries and secondaries over the last week and there's no way to get the green and cyan within spec. You need the filter that slides into place when you put the Epson into Cinema or Digital Cinema mode. Seems to be a trade-off. I either sacrifice a bit of color accuracy for higher lumens, or sacrifice lumens for color accuracy.


----------



## HarleyRider

iastater09 said:


> Need some advice here:
> Have a 5040ub with a elite aeon cinegray3d 150" screen. I need advice on where to mount the projector. The screen is a 1.2 gain ALR screen so advises 1.5 times screen width which would be close to 16' 5". I have a stud at 16'5" but then the lens would be closer than that. The outlet and HDMI passthrough are next to this stud. I could also go one stud back and mount at 17' 7" (yes 14" difference) but electrical and HDMI will be at 16' 5".
> 
> Would I get hotspots if I mount at 16'5" (then the lens would be closer than the recommended 1.5 screen width)?
> 
> Or should mount on the 17'7" stud to make sure I follow the screen recommendation? I could then run the HDMI and power above the projector to where they are located near 16'5".
> 
> Thanks in advance. Will be mounting Friday. Appreciate the input.


I have a 110" Cinegray 3D with my 5040 mounted about 16' back. I'm still getting some mild hotspotting. If you have a way to try it out before permanently mounting the projector, I'd recommend doing that. I ended up moving mine from direct center to off to the side and using lens shift to center the image in an attempt to reduce some of the hotspotting. There's still a little there. I can't move my projector back any farther so my only 2 options are to live with it or get a different screen.


----------



## Don Draper

Am I the only one that thinks the black level sucks on this thing? UB my ass... Seems they took a backward step.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## njbrodeur87

Hello,

My projector arrives today, below is the basic things ive heard for how to use projector, is the below correct, anyone have any other settings to share?

Standard HD 1080p Content: Natural Preset ( adjust brightness as needed )

4K/ HDR content: Bright Cinema ( HDR Mode 1 )


----------



## seplant

Snoogleheimer said:


> Ok, bought a Sony UBP-X800 today. Got home, hooked it up, put in 'The Revenant'.........WOW! Finally was able to use HDR1. Probably wouldn't have been able to if I had watched it in the daytime. Anyway, very happy with this PJ and I don't even have a screen yet. lol Gotta wait a couple weeks for that. Life just keeps getting better!
> 
> 
> p.s. As far as the movie goes; thought it was pretty good. Sure was a lot of blood and gore though. BTW, I thought 'Mad Max: Fury Road' was absolutely terrible. Could only watch 2/3 of it. Why did everyone think it was such an awesome movie?


Good to hear the Sony X800 works well with the Epson. What settings did you use on the Sony? I know that has separate setting for TV or Projector. 

As far as Mad Max goes, to each his own!


----------



## livitup311

I could use some help guys...

I've read every page of this thread, but not all in one sitting - I've been reading since it was started and catch up one or two pages every couple days. Basically, what I'm trying to say is that I don't have a clear narrative since each person's experience has brought new details to light about this projector.

My situation is as follows: I am building a new house, and it will have a light-isolated (bat cave) dedicated theater. I have not bought any of the equipment for this theater yet, but I have been planning on using this projector since I started doing the research about 4 months ago. 
Even though the house is still a few months off, I'm seriously thinking about buying the projector now while it's on sale.

I don't have a screen yet. The dimensions available at the front of the room are 158 inches wide by 8'9 1/2" height. This space will either include speakers beside the screen, or behind the screen in a false wall with acoustically transparent screen. The room is 23'9" long. There will be a front row at about 12 feet, and then two rows behind that on a 2-level riser.

The room will be used for 60% movie watching, 20% TV, and 20% gaming. For sources, I currently have an XBox1 S that I could put in the room. I will also connect a DirecTV STB.

My goals: I want to be able to play UHD movies at the highest quality possible. I would also like to stream Netflix, Amazon, etc. at the highest quality possible. I am not afraid to spend money, but I also don't want to waste it.

Based on all the above:



Should I buy the wired or wireless version of the projector? (Does the extra bandwidth of the wireless do anything to help me?)
Should I buy a dedicated UHD Blueray player, or play UHD discs through the XBox?
What streaming device should I buy, and does that have any impact on the wired/wireless decision?
Thanks in advance!


----------



## seplant

livitup311 said:


> I could use some help guys...
> 
> I've read every page of this thread, but not all in one sitting - I've been reading since it was started and catch up one or two pages every couple days. Basically, what I'm trying to say is that I don't have a clear narrative since each person's experience has brought new details to light about this projector.
> 
> My situation is as follows: I am building a new house, and it will have a light-isolated (bat cave) dedicated theater. I have not bought any of the equipment for this theater yet, but I have been planning on using this projector since I started doing the research about 4 months ago.
> Even though the house is still a few months off, I'm seriously thinking about buying the projector now while it's on sale.
> 
> I don't have a screen yet. The dimensions available at the front of the room are 158 inches wide by 8'9 1/2" height. This space will either include speakers beside the screen, or behind the screen in a false wall with acoustically transparent screen. The room is 23'9" long. There will be a front row at about 12 feet, and then two rows behind that on a 2-level riser.
> 
> The room will be used for 60% movie watching, 20% TV, and 20% gaming. For sources, I currently have an XBox1 S that I could put in the room. I will also connect a DirecTV STB.
> 
> My goals: I want to be able to play UHD movies at the highest quality possible. I would also like to stream Netflix, Amazon, etc. at the highest quality possible. I am not afraid to spend money, but I also don't want to waste it.
> 
> Based on all the above:
> 
> 
> 
> Should I buy the wired or wireless version of the projector? (Does the extra bandwidth of the wireless do anything to help me?)
> Should I buy a dedicated UHD Blueray player, or play UHD discs through the XBox?
> What streaming device should I buy, and does that have any impact on the wired/wireless decision?
> Thanks in advance!


Honestly, if I were in your shoes, I would wait. If your house is still 4 months away from being finished, you'll probably be kicking yourself if you buy this projector now and a new model comes out this fall with presumably better compatibility/new features. I've had my 6040 for several months and have been enjoying standard bluray upscaling, but I don't do gaming or have an Xbox but I know from prevous posts that there are issues with that. I think you'll be happier in the long run if you wait. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Draper

seplant said:


> As far as Mad Max goes, to each his own!


The movie is a visual and sonic treat. Definitely on my demo shelf.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

livitup311 said:


> I could use some help guys...
> 
> I've read every page of this thread, but not all in one sitting - I've been reading since it was started and catch up one or two pages every couple days. Basically, what I'm trying to say is that I don't have a clear narrative since each person's experience has brought new details to light about this projector.
> 
> My situation is as follows: I am building a new house, and it will have a light-isolated (bat cave) dedicated theater. I have not bought any of the equipment for this theater yet, but I have been planning on using this projector since I started doing the research about 4 months ago.
> Even though the house is still a few months off, I'm seriously thinking about buying the projector now while it's on sale.
> 
> I don't have a screen yet. The dimensions available at the front of the room are 158 inches wide by 8'9 1/2" height. This space will either include speakers beside the screen, or behind the screen in a false wall with acoustically transparent screen. The room is 23'9" long. There will be a front row at about 12 feet, and then two rows behind that on a 2-level riser.
> 
> The room will be used for 60% movie watching, 20% TV, and 20% gaming. For sources, I currently have an XBox1 S that I could put in the room. I will also connect a DirecTV STB.
> 
> My goals: I want to be able to play UHD movies at the highest quality possible. I would also like to stream Netflix, Amazon, etc. at the highest quality possible. I am not afraid to spend money, but I also don't want to waste it.
> 
> Based on all the above:
> 
> 
> 
> Should I buy the wired or wireless version of the projector? (Does the extra bandwidth of the wireless do anything to help me?)
> Should I buy a dedicated UHD Blueray player, or play UHD discs through the XBox?
> What streaming device should I buy, and does that have any impact on the wired/wireless decision?
> Thanks in advance!


I have had minimal issues with UBE, the extra bandwidth is not utilized bythe projector AFAIK so it won't help you. You've probably read of a few problems with people who are cabling to the projector.

Don't buy anything until your room is ready. The room makes a big difference, ensure the front wall is completely covered in black triple plush velvet. Ceiling should also be dark if you can help it. Flooring must be dark.

The Nvidia Shield TV has performed very well for me and others. 4K looks great through it.

I have not used my UHD player enough yet, you will see people are getting HDR via 4K, some want to strip HDR from the 4K disc but keep the BT2020 color space. It's only a $200-250 investment on the Philips player so this should not factor in to your thoughts too much right now. 

In a bat cave, I would try to test more than 1 projector out. See if an authorized place near you will let you test out a JVC at the same time.

I much prefer 2.4 screens, consider that setup instead of 16x9. Most "epic" movies are 2.35-2.4 AR. Research that in the constant image height forum on AVS. If game playing and TV watching was much higher on your list I would not have suggested a scope screen.

I don't prefer AT screens, but audiophiles do, especially for super wide screens like scope. Othewrise you get to play with speakers that are out of posiiton and can't lock audio to the presented image. I've had problems doing pixel focus with AT screens, so that instantly makes me think I'm losing resolution. It's possible with our faux-K projector, we can be OK with the slight resolution loss of an AT screen. Certainly the setup is cleaner if kids/guests are curious and like to poke at speakers.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

livitup311 said:


> I could use some help guys...
> 
> I've read every page of this thread, but not all in one sitting - I've been reading since it was started and catch up one or two pages every couple days. Basically, what I'm trying to say is that I don't have a clear narrative since each person's experience has brought new details to light about this projector.
> 
> My situation is as follows: I am building a new house, and it will have a light-isolated (bat cave) dedicated theater. I have not bought any of the equipment for this theater yet, but I have been planning on using this projector since I started doing the research about 4 months ago.
> Even though the house is still a few months off, I'm seriously thinking about buying the projector now while it's on sale.
> 
> I don't have a screen yet. The dimensions available at the front of the room are 158 inches wide by 8'9 1/2" height. This space will either include speakers beside the screen, or behind the screen in a false wall with acoustically transparent screen. The room is 23'9" long. There will be a front row at about 12 feet, and then two rows behind that on a 2-level riser.
> 
> The room will be used for 60% movie watching, 20% TV, and 20% gaming. For sources, I currently have an XBox1 S that I could put in the room. I will also connect a DirecTV STB.
> 
> My goals: I want to be able to play UHD movies at the highest quality possible. I would also like to stream Netflix, Amazon, etc. at the highest quality possible. I am not afraid to spend money, but I also don't want to waste it.
> 
> Based on all the above:
> 
> 
> 
> Should I buy the wired or wireless version of the projector? (Does the extra bandwidth of the wireless do anything to help me?)
> Should I buy a dedicated UHD Blueray player, or play UHD discs through the XBox?
> What streaming device should I buy, and does that have any impact on the wired/wireless decision?
> Thanks in advance!


I bought the wireless. I regret it. The signal has been really temperamental at the highest end of its capabilities (4k60). While most people won't be gaming on this projector, it's something worth considering. In retrospect I wish I'd have just gotten the UB and dealt with running a long HDMI cable from the beginning, which is what I've ended up resorting to. Wireless display mode switching times are quite long, which I thought I could tolerate, but, honestly, being wired is just a better experience now that I've wired this PJ into my systems. That's my opinion for ya.

The extra bandwidth does not really help you that much. The extra bandwidth merely lets you send 4k24/30, 4:4:4, 12bit to the projector, whereas you can't even get that signal to the projector over physical HDMI. BUT, once that signal gets to the projector it is processed at 4k24/30 4:2:2 10bit, which is what you'll be getting to the screen, and which is exactly no more than what the UB can process and send to the screen.

For component compatibility, I think you're simply better off buying a UB, working through long cable runs, and pairing the PJ with an HDFury Linker to deal with any incompatible signals you might want to send to the projector.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

seplant said:


> Good to hear the Sony X800 works well with the Epson. What settings did you use on the Sony? I know that has separate setting for TV or Projector.
> As far as Mad Max goes, to each his own!


Set to: 'Projector, 24p Output, YCbCr (4:4:4), DTS Neo:6' I think everything else is set to 'auto'. Just tested in daylight, with blinds closed, I can still utilize HDR 1, however, have to set PJ power consumption to 'high' (fan noise is higher, but, doesn't bother me). With blinds open, there's no way, would have to set to SDR for sure. Boy, the sound with Neural:X is outstanding (when listening to music, no bueno, still prefer 'Extended Stereo' setting for that on SC-99). I suppose I should list everything in my system in my sig. Will start on that now. 
All of this info is based on the fact I am projecting on bare wall. If it's this good on a wall, I can't wait to see how good it gets with a good screen.

p.s. After playing movie again today, skipping from scene to scene, I haven't noticed any issues (no banding, etc...).


----------



## Evan201

WOW! I'm finally happy with these settings for every UHD disc I've tried so far. 
Thanks to "achanonier" for sharing these settings way back in the thread. I tried them out with Oblivion, Warcraft, and Batman v Superman. 
I challenge anyone to say the image is still too dark with these settings. On HIGH LAMP it's EXTREMELY bright and i'm using a Cinegrey 5D. 
I know the contrast is very high but for some reason it really handles well on all 3 UHD movies through the Philips player. 
Just thrilled about UHD now. May still consider an ISF calibration down the road if I can find someone with the HDR metering tools in Los Angeles county area. 

(AUTO BRIGHT) HDR1 
COLOR MODE: BRIGHT CINEMA
BRIGHTNESS: 48
CONTRAST: 95
COLOR: 85
TINT: 50
SHARPNESS: 0
COLOR TEMP: 5/3
IMAGE ENHANCEMENT: PRESET 3
GAMMA: 2
SUPER WHITE: OFF
LENS IRIS: 0
POWER CONSUMPTION: ECO 

Top is 1080p SDR Blu Ray . Bottom is UHD 4k. 
free photo hosting


----------



## Don Draper

Evan201 said:


> WOW! I'm finally happy with these settings for every UHD disc I've tried so far.
> Thanks to "achanonier" for sharing these settings way back in the thread. I tried them out with Oblivion, Warcraft, and Batman v Superman.
> I challenge anyone to say the image is still too dark with these settings. On HIGH LAMP it's EXTREMELY bright and i'm using a Cinegrey 5D.
> I know the contrast is very high but for some reason it really handles well on all 3 UHD movies through the Philips player.
> Just thrilled about UHD now. May still consider an ISF calibration down the road if I can find someone with the HDR metering tools in Los Angeles county area.
> 
> (AUTO BRIGHT) HDR1
> COLOR MODE: BRIGHT CINEMA
> BRIGHTNESS: 48
> CONTRAST: 95
> COLOR: 85
> TINT: 50
> SHARPNESS: 0
> COLOR TEMP: 5/3
> IMAGE ENHANCEMENT: PRESET 3
> GAMMA: 2
> SUPER WHITE: OFF
> LENS IRIS: 0
> POWER CONSUMPTION: ECO
> 
> Top is 1080p SDR Blu Ray . Bottom is UHD 4k.
> free photo hosting


I can see blown highlights from here. 95 on the contrast will do that. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

Don Draper said:


> I can see blown highlights from here. 95 on the contrast will do that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Sure, but in motion at a mile a minute, without ISF calibration, I'm enjoying the overall tone of the UHD discs way more with these settings. 
I'm more worried about bringing up the low lights which these settings definitely do. I'm not a complete videophile and I use my projector for everything from standard television to UHD movies so I'm just looking for a decent compromise without dropping $350 in calibration right now. I'm loving it. I could potentially even drop the contrast to 85 and up the lamp to medium. Will probably serve just as well.


----------



## Don Draper

Evan201 said:


> Sure, but in motion at a mile a minute, without ISF calibration, I'm enjoying the overall tone of the UHD discs way more with these settings.
> I'm more worried about bringing up the low lights which these settings definitely do. I'm not a complete videophile and I use my projector for everything from standard television to UHD movies so I'm just looking for a decent compromise without dropping $350 in calibration right now. I'm loving it. I could potentially even drop the contrast to 85 and up the lamp to medium. Will probably serve just as well.


What's your throw distance , screen size, and viewing environment? 

Ps..I get that you love it. That's all that should matter.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Draper

'............


----------



## Don Draper

........


----------



## inspector

Evan201 said:


> WOW! I'm finally happy with these settings for every UHD disc I've tried so far.
> Thanks to "achanonier" for sharing these settings way back in the thread. I tried them out with Oblivion, Warcraft, and Batman v Superman.
> I challenge anyone to say the image is still too dark with these settings. On HIGH LAMP it's EXTREMELY bright and i'm using a Cinegrey 5D.
> I know the contrast is very high but for some reason it really handles well on all 3 UHD movies through the Philips player.
> Just thrilled about UHD now. May still consider an ISF calibration down the road if I can find someone with the HDR metering tools in Los Angeles county area.
> 
> (AUTO BRIGHT) HDR1
> COLOR MODE: BRIGHT CINEMA
> BRIGHTNESS: 48
> CONTRAST: 95
> COLOR: 85
> TINT: 50
> SHARPNESS: 0
> COLOR TEMP: 5/3
> IMAGE ENHANCEMENT: PRESET 3
> GAMMA: 2
> SUPER WHITE: OFF
> LENS IRIS: 0
> POWER CONSUMPTION: ECO
> 
> Top is 1080p SDR Blu Ray . Bottom is UHD 4k.
> free photo hosting


http://www.avical.com/


----------



## darkangelism

elmalloc said:


> Don't buy anything until your room is ready. The room makes a big difference, ensure the front wall is completely covered in black triple plush velvet. Ceiling should also be dark if you can help it. Flooring must be dark.


What is the reason for this? I was planning on buying the projector while it is on sale and making adjustments to the room as needed, rather than create the room and have to find a projector that works in it.


----------



## Evan201

Don Draper said:


> What's your throw distance , screen size, and viewing environment?
> 
> Ps..I get that you love it. That's all that should matter.
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Throw is 12' 
Screen is 105" 
Environment is living room NON light controlled, NON bat cave if you will.
This picture is with 6 o'clock blinds open and lamp on just to show the rig. Ceiling is popcorn white. May blackout the screen wall and small inlet wall to the left with velvet to enhance the experience a bit. 

print screen


----------



## gizmo8500

Don Draper said:


> Am I the only one that thinks the black level sucks on this thing? UB my ass... Seems they took a backward step.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


No, can't say I feel that way at all. I would say the black levels are astonishingly good.

Don't use HDMI Extended for SDR content. Blacks will be very washed out.

Is your screen in a bat cave or is it in a light colored room? Before I got my ALR screen my blacks were terrible. The brighter the projector, the lighter the paint in the room, and the whiter the screen all contribute to bad blacks. That light bounces off the screen to the walls and back to the screen washing everything out. ALR screen makes all the difference in the world if you can't paint your room black. In my room in total darkness, with the ALR screen the deepest black the projector can project is just a hair brighter than the bit of screen I'm not projecting onto.


----------



## elmalloc

darkangelism said:


> What is the reason for this? I was planning on buying the projector while it is on sale and making adjustments to the room as needed, rather than create the room and have to find a projector that works in it.


It depends how long your room will take to put together. Technology changes fast enough, if you aren't ready for 6 months or so I'd say wait, but with the projector sale at its price it's not really a wasted amount, you could sell it and not lose any money later on (or maybe even make money if you don't open the box).

It's really more about timing in a normal scenario, if your room was still a year away, usually buying the projector now is a waste of money (price might go down) and technology will be old(er). You're definitely going to see more *real *4K projectors interrupting Epson's priceline in a year.

Epson doesn't usually discount the wireless model from what I heard from retailers, so something is brewing.


----------



## Don Draper

darkangelism said:


> What is the reason for this? I was planning on buying the projector while it is on sale and making adjustments to the room as needed, rather than create the room and have to find a projector that works in it.


Light walls will reflect light back unto the screen. Washing out colors and impacting contrast. Dark screen wall aids contrast and immersion . Velvet will eat up any stray reflections. Good matte/flat paint works too. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

gizmo8500 said:


> No, can't say I feel that way at all. I would say the black levels are astonishingly good.
> 
> Don't use HDMI Extended for SDR content. Blacks will be very washed out.
> 
> Is your screen in a bat cave or is it in a light colored room? Before I got my ALR screen my blacks were terrible. The brighter the projector, the lighter the paint in the room, and the whiter the screen all contribute to bad blacks. That light bounces off the screen to the walls and back to the screen washing everything out. ALR screen makes all the difference in the world if you can't paint your room black. In my room in total darkness, with the ALR screen the deepest black the projector can project is just a hair brighter than the bit of screen I'm not projecting onto.


Agreed, make sure you'ore not using all these posted settings for SDR!! People should be just a little clearer when posting settings that "these are for HDR use". Most definitely the settings posted where brightness is hovering in the 50+ range is tremendously washed out blacks for SDR.


----------



## elmalloc

Evan201 said:


> Throw is 12'
> Screen is 105"
> Environment is living room NON light controlled, NON bat cave if you will.
> This picture is with 6 o'clock blinds open and lamp on just to show the rig. Ceiling is popcorn white. May blackout the screen wall and small inlet wall to the left with velvet to enhance the experience a bit.


If I could, I would - definitely black out the front screen wall with plush velvet. Image will appear amazing and floating.


----------



## Evan201

Don Draper said:


> Light walls will reflect light back unto the screen. Washing out colors and impacting contrast. Dark screen wall aids contrast and immersion . Velvet will eat up any stray reflections. Good matte/flat paint works too.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


I was thinking of going the paint route instead of velvet for the screen wall as well. I'm not going to bother with the popcorn ceiling because I'm in an apartment and only want to take it so far. The wife might not agree with painting the whole place black


----------



## Evan201

elmalloc said:


> If I could, I would - definitely black out the front screen wall with plush velvet. Image will appear amazing and floating.


Thanks for the recommendation pal. Any helpful information or comments is welcomed with me. This is my first REAL projector. In 2010 I bought my first PJ. 
It was an Epson EX-70 multi-media 720p projector with only 2000 lumens that I always projected onto a matte white wall. 
So this is a MASSIVE step for me in the HT world.


----------



## elmalloc

Evan201 said:


> Thanks for the recommendation pal. Any helpful information or comments is welcomed with me. This is my first REAL projector. In 2010 I bought my first PJ.
> It was an Epson EX-70 multi-media 720p projector with only 2000 lumens that I always projected onto a matte white wall.
> So this is a MASSIVE step for me in the HT world.


Buy this now, figure out how to apply it later:
http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/search/Black-Plush-Triple-Velvet/681/0

Go velvet, don't paint the front wall. You can build frames and they'll friction fit. When you leave the apt, just toss everything. You don't have a lot of room on the sides of your screen though but this will make a big difference.


----------



## Don Draper

gizmo8500 said:


> No, can't say I feel that way at all. I would say the black levels are astonishingly good.
> 
> Don't use HDMI Extended for SDR content. Blacks will be very washed out.
> 
> Is your screen in a bat cave or is it in a light colored room? Before I got my ALR screen my blacks were terrible. The brighter the projector, the lighter the paint in the room, and the whiter the screen all contribute to bad blacks. That light bounces off the screen to the walls and back to the screen washing everything out. ALR screen makes all the difference in the world if you can't paint your room black. In my room in total darkness, with the ALR screen the deepest black the projector can project is just a hair brighter than the bit of screen I'm not projecting onto.


I know all that. My room is purpose built with no compromises to picture or sound . I wouldnt call the black level astonishingly good , I'll get a 5050 when it comes out, but if black levels aren't inproved ,ill be saying goodbye to epson after about 7 years. what was your previous projector? 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## gizmo8500

Don Draper said:


> I know all that. My room is purpose built with no compromises to picture or sound . I wouldnt call the black level astonishingly good , I'll get a 5050 when it comes out, but if black levels aren't inproved ,ill be saying goodbye to epson after about 7 years. what was your previous projector?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


An Epson 8350


----------



## Evan201

elmalloc said:


> Buy this now, figure out how to apply it later:
> http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/search/Black-Plush-Triple-Velvet/681/0
> 
> Go velvet, don't paint the front wall. You can build frames and they'll friction fit. When you leave the apt, just toss everything. You don't have a lot of room on the sides of your screen though but this will make a big difference.


So, would you recommend just building box frames around the current screen and attaching the velvet to them or just spray adhesive the velvet onto the wall or something? Or will the adhesive way not make it flatten out enough?


----------



## seplant

Evan201 said:


> WOW! I'm finally happy with these settings for every UHD disc I've tried so far.
> Thanks to "achanonier" for sharing these settings way back in the thread. I tried them out with Oblivion, Warcraft, and Batman v Superman.
> I challenge anyone to say the image is still too dark with these settings. On HIGH LAMP it's EXTREMELY bright and i'm using a Cinegrey 5D.
> I know the contrast is very high but for some reason it really handles well on all 3 UHD movies through the Philips player.
> Just thrilled about UHD now. May still consider an ISF calibration down the road if I can find someone with the HDR metering tools in Los Angeles county area.
> 
> (AUTO BRIGHT) HDR1
> COLOR MODE: BRIGHT CINEMA
> BRIGHTNESS: 48
> CONTRAST: 95
> COLOR: 85
> TINT: 50
> SHARPNESS: 0
> COLOR TEMP: 5/3
> IMAGE ENHANCEMENT: PRESET 3
> GAMMA: 2
> SUPER WHITE: OFF
> LENS IRIS: 0
> POWER CONSUMPTION: ECO
> 
> Top is 1080p SDR Blu Ray . Bottom is UHD 4k.


Perhaps the real question is do you see any benefit from the HDR content? It's difficult to judge from the photos. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Draper

Evan201 said:


> So, would you recommend just building box frames around the current screen and attaching the velvet to them or just spray adhesive the velvet onto the wall or something? Or will the adhesive way not make it flatten out enough?


When I had an appartment I stapled burlap around the ceiling and walls of the front 3rd of the room. It was a spare room. If you are in a common area don't do that. Just paint your screen wall a dark matte color. You can hang curtains to hide walls as well. And they can be slid out of sight when not needed.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

seplant said:


> Perhaps the real question is do you see any benefit from the HDR content? It's difficult to judge from the photos.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


I would say to my eye, which is untrained, there is about a 10-15% improvement in lifelike color. Skin tones, Plants/trees, etc....
If there is a movie I'm moderately interested in owning, I'll buy the SDR blu ray. 
If it's a spectacular visual effects movie like some space movies, revenant, gravity, the martian...I might consider the extra $10 for the UHD / BD bundle. 
Very happy with SDR blu ray as well. I also realize that unless ISF calibration is done for HDR and SDR, i'm basically shooting in the dark with my own taste. 
I'm also just learning to pay attention to minor details because this is my first REAL home theater projector so my eye will take some time to become proficient.


----------



## Don Draper

gizmo8500 said:


> An Epson 8350


Our experiences will be relative then. Based on mine epson took a step back. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## darkangelism

elmalloc;51554433
Epson doesn't usually discount the wireless model from what I heard from retailers said:


> Interesting, yeah it feels like an inventory dump. Maybe I should just wait, or buy something cheap like a BenQ HT2050 and wait to see if there is a new product announcement, I just hate waiting for an an unannounced product that may or may not happen and there is always something better coming.


----------



## Don Draper

darkangelism said:


> Interesting, yeah it feels like an inventory dump. Maybe I should just wait, or buy something cheap like a BenQ HT2050 and wait to see if there is a new product announcement, I just hate waiting for an an unannounced product that may or may not happen and there is always something better coming.


It is , they are cleaning house.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## gizmo8500

Don Draper said:


> Our experiences will be relative then. Based on mine epson took a step back.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


When I get home I'll hook up the 8350 and compare black levels side by side, but I'm nearly certain that despite the 5040UB being a much brighter image, the absolute black level with iris off is much better than the 8350. I'll get back to you on that.


----------



## Don Draper

gizmo8500 said:


> When I get home I'll hook up the 8350 and compare black levels side by side, but I'm nearly certain that despite the 5040UB being a much brighter image, the absolute black level with iris off is much better than the 8350. I'll get back to you on that.


I don't have any experience with the 8350. Im comparing within the same model line (5010).

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## gizmo8500

Don Draper said:


> I don't have any experience with the 8350. Im comparing within the same model line (5010).
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Oh I see what you're saying. Maybe you're just being too picky 

All our experiences are going to be relative. This was definitely a huge upgrade for me and the 8350 was no slouch image quality wise back in the day. You're probably hitting the point where you have to pay 200-300% more money for 10-15% image quality boost


----------



## Don Draper

gizmo8500 said:


> Oh I see what you're saying. Maybe you're just being too picky
> 
> All our experiences are going to be relative. This was definitely a huge upgrade for me and the 8350 was no slouch image quality wise back in the day. You're probably hitting the point where you have to pay 200-300% more money for 10-15% image quality boost


No argument here about being picky it bugs me a little but im loving uhd and hdr so it's good ...for now.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

Subscribing to the thread in anticipation of my 6040 arriving soon. I had an unfortunate heat issue with my PC 4030, so after some research and a great deal from my dealer, I had them order the 6040 over the JVC DLA-X570R due to warranty, contrast, and brightness. Can't wait to get it hung and start tweaking. I have about 80% darkness in my room during the day, and 100% at night, with near-black front wall and ceiling. Looking forward to pairing it with my Oppo 203 and getting some eye candy. I don't even have any UHD discs yet!

I'd say we watch 30% movies on disc, 30% movies off the DirecTV DVR, and 40% sports and shows from DirecTV. Right now, neither my AppleTV nor Roku are 4K. Yet. 

Can y'all point me towards some basic setup out of the box? I have the S&M (huhhuhhuh) calibration disc, but you guys here on the boards always have great ideas.

Thanks!


----------



## darkangelism

Don Draper said:


> It is , they are cleaning house.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Now to speculate as possible changes and if this is going to be a major model shift like 5030ub to 5040ub or an incremental update and the price of the new one.

Hopefully 
full 18GBps HDMI
Less noise from 4K enhancement
lower input lag, not that the current is bad
increased contrast ratio/lumens for better HDR

Unlikely but one can dream
new chip comparable to the new TI half 4k chip
real 4k


----------



## Craig Peer

darkangelism said:


> Interesting, yeah it feels like an inventory dump. Maybe I should just wait, or buy something cheap like a BenQ HT2050 and wait to see if there is a new product announcement, I just hate waiting for an an unannounced product that may or may not happen and there is always something better coming.


Nothing brewing that I've heard from Epson. Sometimes manufacturers just put stuff on sale - maybe it's slow since it's tax season. Epson most likely won't have any new projector announced until Cedia - in September. Which is typical.


----------



## Don Draper

darkangelism said:


> Now to speculate as possible changes and if this is going to be a major model shift like 5030ub to 5040ub or an incremental update and the price of the new one.
> 
> Hopefully
> full 18GBps HDMI
> Less noise from 4K enhancement
> lower input lag, not that the current is bad
> increased contrast ratio/lumens for better HDR
> 
> Unlikely but one can dream
> new chip comparable to the new TI half 4k chip
> real 4k


Surprisingly havent heard the 4k whine. Hopefully we dont get hosed too badly on resale.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

darkangelism said:


> Now to speculate as possible changes and if this is going to be a major model shift like 5030ub to 5040ub or an incremental update and the price of the new one.
> 
> Hopefully
> full 18GBps HDMI
> Less noise from 4K enhancement
> lower input lag, not that the current is bad
> increased contrast ratio/lumens for better HDR
> 
> Unlikely but one can dream
> new chip comparable to the new TI half 4k chip
> real 4k


I don't know. When I was escalated to one of Epson's tech guys to talk about my experience with the wireless transmitter, we ended up just chatting a bit about the projector in general, its reception, and the future. Take this with a grain of salt, but he said it could be a couple years before something is pushed out that addresses the bandwidth issue in the 5040 because their sales are so good they don't feel the need to rush anything out there.


----------



## darkangelism

flapjackdowntheline said:


> I don't know. When I was escalated to one of Epson's tech guys to talk about my experience with the wireless transmitter, we ended up just chatting a bit about the projector in general, its reception, and the future. Take this with a grain of salt, but he said it could be a couple years before something is pushed out that addresses the bandwidth issue in the 5040 because their sales are so good they don't feel the need to rush anything out there.


Yeah I think I am still buying it and will just go with it until true 4k is at this price range and hope that I can sell it off at $500-1000 then.


----------



## webmst

couple of phone snaps of the projector install (in the adjacent room as described) and the half/half room setup. Sorry the pics are so poor. If anyone wants better I'll do them again.
Front is "blacked out" with velvet and other heavy fabrics around the screen. 
Doors and windows have double stacked blackout and velvet curtains. 
So "blackout" light control when closed up even on full sun days.
Rear half is white so when all the curtains are pulled back the room returns to a usable lounge. 
7 floor Speaker channels are all Electrostatics - - new 4 ceiling electrostatic coming soon - designs underway ( I play with speaker designs for fun . 
Fronts are an Acorn design from ERAudio (self build) and preform well whilst the centre is actually a pair of similar ERAudio ESL3's which are very close to the Acorn's in timbre. sides/backs Acustat's floor stander's. Sub's are 2 JBL 4645C's (currently behind the Acorns) (I have 2 more JBL 4641's for a quad sub setup, but I'm trying just using 2 at the moment with a Marantz 7703 - I previously managed the 4 with a DBX Venue 360 but the 7703 can handle 2 sub's so I'm leaving it at that for the moment.)


----------



## Threefiddie

flapjackdowntheline said:


> I don't know. When I was escalated to one of Epson's tech guys to talk about my experience with the wireless transmitter, we ended up just chatting a bit about the projector in general, its reception, and the future. Take this with a grain of salt, but he said it could be a couple years before something is pushed out that addresses the bandwidth issue in the 5040 because their sales are so good they don't feel the need to rush anything out there.


that kind of talk will just drive me to the jvc rs420 where i can have no bandwidth problems for not all that much more money at the moment.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

darkangelism said:


> Yeah I think I am still buying it and will just go with it until true 4k is at this price range and hope that I can sell it off at $500-1000 then.


Go for it. You'll be very happy. This is a go between PJ for me as well. Resale values on Epson PJs are pretty good. That's why I bought a new one instead of a used one.


----------



## Trigger

rmilyard said:


> So after a lot of messing around I think I found it. When changed Shield to 4K 23.976Hz I get the BT 4:2:2 2020 12 bit option. Also using my 50 feet fiber HDMI cable seems to work!
> 
> Next Netflix plays back 4:2:2 BT2020 12bit but in SDR. I think I read someplace that is an issue. Not sure of fix yet.
> 
> Amazon plays 4:2:2 BT2020 12bit HDR. However picture is VERY dark. Need to see how can get brighter so can see it.
> 
> Kodi plays the few 4K mkv movies I have now in 4:2:2 BT202 SDR. Picture looks amazing! My wife came down while finding out all this and said wow that is great! Then showed her Amazon HDR and said looks like the projector bulb just died.


Try this, I fixed my Netflix UHD HDR problem. Now I see HDR from Netflix....

I logged onto my PC and opened my Netflix my account, and under Playback settings, I changed it from Auto to High. Now when I stream DD+ on my X800 to my Epson 5040UB it shows HDR.


----------



## Trigger

rmilyard said:


> I have been chatting with Netflix about HDR not working on firmware 1.09. Getting the run around that they never heard about this etc. Proved to them it's happening. Said going to pass this up but who knows. Hard to say with it's Netflix or Epson issue. I would think it's Netflix since Amazon HDR seems to work fine.


Try logging onto Netflix from your PC, change Playback settings under accounts, from Auto to High. Now when I stream from my Sony X800 to my Epson 5040UB it shows HDR. I am on firmware 1.09.


----------



## Jem87

This is how my 5040 sounds with the 4K enchancement on or my Phillips UHD player set to output 4K:

https://vid.me/7sAF

This is what they call "coil whine"? So loud it makes me not want to use the 4k setting at all.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Jem87 said:


> This is how my 5040 sounds with the 4K enchancement on or my Phillips UHD player set to output 4K:
> 
> https://vid.me/7sAF
> 
> This is what they call "coil whine"? So loud it makes me not want to use the 4k setting at all.


Hmmm, that's odd, mine doesn't make that sound.


----------



## aaranddeeman

chevpowr said:


> This post should be updated


With what? 
And you could have simply linked the post than quoting it entirely.


----------



## chevpowr

*Sony UBP-X800 ROCKS*

Just hooked up the Sony UBP-X800. Its incredible. Watched the Revenant and it looks amazing! Life of Pi is coming up next

I wanted to tell you guys that I am getting 24hz, 12 bit, 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR. Netflix is outputting the same

I am running a 25 ft HDMI connected to another 15ft HDMI cable with a coupler. Didn't want to spend extra money on a 40ft cable to find out it wasn't gonna work. These are cables I got at Fry's for cheap.

All my components running into a Denon 510BT which allows full passthrough up to 18gbps I believe.
For $299 this player really delivers. The HDR looks great. ill get some screenshots later if y'all want.

Right now Im shooting onto a smooth wall with DIY ALR screen paint, which I know isn't optimal, but the picture still looks great. Im looking into some solutions for an ALR tab tension screen that doesn't break the bank


----------



## chevpowr

aaranddeeman said:


> With what?
> And you could have simply linked the post than quoting it entirely.


The bottom of the post needs to be updated don't you think? sorry, will make the post link


----------



## Jem87

Snoogleheimer said:


> Hmmm, that's odd, mine doesn't make that sound.


I tried a few different hdmi cables as a test and got the same result. 

Wondering if that's typical coil whine you just have to live with or if it would be grounds to request a replacement from Epson.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Jem87 said:


> I tried a few different hdmi cables as a test and got the same result.
> 
> Wondering if that's typical coil whine you just have to live with or if it would be grounds to request a replacement from Epson.


Well, I just double checked for you and listened with my head about a foot from the PJ and all I heard was the faint sound of the fan (PJ set to 'medium' power consumption). I'd at least call them and find out what the deal might be.?


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks. Even though the color is more accurate, do Cinema n Digital Cinema have enough lumens for calibration ? 




aaranddeeman said:


> The filter helps to get DCI-P3 color space which is wider than REC.709
> Cinema and Digital Cinema are very close in color accuracy out of box.
> Bright cinema will need tweaking (and will need measuring equipment) to tune the color accuracy. Not that it is bad, but can get much better. Again it will be only Rec.709 though.


----------



## Don Draper

Im.watching arrival right now..black levels way too high ..dropped brightness from 48 to 43.. Will need to see how revenant looks with the lowered setting.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Thanks for your detail explanation. However, I still get BT2020 on HDR discs when using the Natrual mode on Epson/Oppo combo. Is that info correct ? Or that's just a bracket which includes BT709 as well ?




HarleyRider said:


> I think mainly for color accuracy. I've been using Bright Cinema, but I've been trying to calibrate the primaries and secondaries over the last week and there's no way to get the green and cyan within spec. You need the filter that slides into place when you put the Epson into Cinema or Digital Cinema mode. Seems to be a trade-off. I either sacrifice a bit of color accuracy for higher lumens, or sacrifice lumens for color accuracy.


----------



## darkangelism

Jem87 said:


> This is how my 5040 sounds with the 4K enchancement on or my Phillips UHD player set to output 4K:
> 
> https://vid.me/7sAF
> 
> This is what they call "coil whine"? So loud it makes me not want to use the 4k setting at all.


It wasn't that loud in the video, but that could just be the video, so I couldn't tell if it was coil whine.


----------



## seplant

chevpowr said:


> Just hooked up the Sony UBP-X800. Its incredible. Watched the Revenant and it looks amazing! Life of Pi is coming up next
> 
> I wanted to tell you guys that I am getting 24hz, 12 bit, 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR. Netflix is outputting the same
> 
> I am running a 25 ft HDMI connected to another 15ft HDMI cable with a coupler. Didn't want to spend extra money on a 40ft cable to find out it wasn't gonna work. These are cables I got at Fry's for cheap.
> 
> All my components running into a Denon 510BT which allows full passthrough up to 18gbps I believe.
> For $299 this player really delivers. The HDR looks great. ill get some screenshots later if y'all want.
> 
> Right now Im shooting onto a smooth wall with DIY ALR screen paint, which I know isn't optimal, but the picture still looks great. Im looking into some solutions for an ALR tab tension screen that doesn't break the bank


Do you have the X800 output set to TV or Projector? I read in the X800 thread where some users report raised black levels in Projector mode.


----------



## aaranddeeman

ac388 said:


> Noted with thanks. Even though the color is more accurate, do Cinema n Digital Cinema have enough lumens for calibration ?


If you have light controlled room. Yes you do. 
I am almost always watching in Cinema mode, sometime Digital Cinema.
Once I get my hands on HDR10 patterns, I will try to calibrate Bright Cinema. Until then all is well.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Don Draper said:


> Im.watching arrival right now..black levels way too high ..dropped brightness from 48 to 43.. Will need to see how revenant looks with the lowered setting.


Well, hope you have better luck with 'The Revenant'. I watched it on my Sony UBP-X800 and thought it looked great. I had PJ set to 'Bright Cinema' and HDR 1.


----------



## chevpowr

seplant said:


> Do you have the X800 output set to TV or Projector? I read in the X800 thread where some users report raised black levels in Projector mode.


Yes there is a setting for that, I will have to play with it to see if it makes a difference but I have mine set to projector


----------



## KBone

Currently working on finishing our basement and will have a ceiling mount. 

Speaking of wireless vs wired... I'm sorry if this question has been asked, but I've read about the last 50 pages and didn't see it.... What's a trusted "go to" HDMI cable in the 35' range?


----------



## aaranddeeman

KBone said:


> Currently working on finishing our basement and will have a ceiling mount.
> 
> Speaking of wireless vs wired... I'm sorry if this question has been asked, but I've read about the last 50 pages and didn't see it.... What's a trusted "go to" HDMI cable in the 35' range?


None. 
At 20' (or may be a stretch 25') the trust is lost. Anything above is gamble.
Your best bet is install a conduit. Easy to replace the cable for the life.


----------



## ac388

Yes, my room is light controlled. But whenever I had it on Natural or Cinema mode, n playing a HDR disc, the picture is pretty dark even after Brightness/Contrast calibration with the Disney WOW disc.

Any Cinema or Digital Cinema settings u can share ? Hope u are using Oppo 203 as well. Thanks in advance. 



aaranddeeman said:


> If you have light controlled room. Yes you do.
> I am almost always watching in Cinema mode, sometime Digital Cinema.
> Once I get my hands on HDR10 patterns, I will try to calibrate Bright Cinema. Until then all is well.


----------



## Evan201

Trigger said:


> Try this, I fixed my Netflix UHD HDR problem. Now I see HDR from Netflix....
> 
> I logged onto my PC and opened my Netflix my account, and under Playback settings, I changed it from Auto to High. Now when I stream DD+ on my X800 to my Epson 5040UB it shows HDR.


For the record, I tried this for the Nvidia Shield 5.1 to fix netflix HDR and it did not work for me. Deleted update, reinstalled. Re-logged in. Rebooted shield. 
Nothing worked to bring back HDR to netflix on the shield.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

KBone said:


> Currently working on finishing our basement and will have a ceiling mount.
> 
> Speaking of wireless vs wired... I'm sorry if this question has been asked, but I've read about the last 50 pages and didn't see it.... What's a trusted "go to" HDMI cable in the 35' range?


If you want to guarantee a working signal at all display modes at that distance, then fiber optic is the way to go. There are regular cables that can do it, but it can be hit or miss.


----------



## @TJ

Sorry if this has been answered...

Planning to project from a throw distance of 15', screen size of 120". Does projector throw distance affect how high/low the screen can be placed?

I ask because the "screen height" at the epson calculator seems to go red at certain throw distances (https://files.support.epson.com/pdc/eai/html5/index.html )


----------



## Don Draper

Snoogleheimer said:


> Well, hope you have better luck with 'The Revenant'. I watched it on my Sony UBP-X800 and thought it looked great. I had PJ set to 'Bright Cinema' and HDR 1.


I had no issues with the revenant . In fact that's the movie I used to calibrate my dark levels previously that's why I want to go back to verify that it still looks okay

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Just got my 6040 and Sammy K8500 and am still trying to figure out all the calibrations. I've used many from Projectorreviews and I hope that they are the ones to use.


This morning I'm going to see what the PJ shows for these 5 discs:


UHDBD
BD
3D BD
2D/3D BD 
SD


----------



## Don Draper

ac388 said:


> Yes, my room is light controlled. But whenever I had it on Natural or Cinema mode, n playing a HDR disc, the picture is pretty dark even after Brightness/Contrast calibration with the Disney WOW disc.
> 
> Any Cinema or Digital Cinema settings u can share ? Hope u are using Oppo 203 as well. Thanks in advance.


Disc calibration will not work because you are not throwing out and HDR signal when you test the levels so it will always end up too dark with HDR content

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## HarleyRider

ac388 said:


> Thanks for your detail explanation. However, I still get BT2020 on HDR discs when using the Natrual mode on Epson/Oppo combo. Is that info correct ? Or that's just a bracket which includes BT709 as well ?


With a 4K UHD disc, your Oppo will output the signal as BT2020. That means it's sending the wider color gamut (Rec. 2020) that's used by UHD. You will always see that when playing a UHD disc regardless of what setting you have on your Epson. Regular HD and 1080p Bluray discs use the narrower color space of Rec. 709. Not to confuse things further, but on a UHD disc, Rec. 2020 acts as a container for the DCI-P3 digital cinema color spec. Think of DCI-P3 as a subset of the much wider Rec. 2020 profile. More colors than Rec. 709, but not the full gamut of Rec. 2020. I don't believe there is any display capable of full Rec. 2020 at this time. This is where the different settings on your Epson come into play. Two of the settings - Cinema and Digital Cinema - use a P3 color filter. If you change from Bright Cinema to Digital Cinema, you can hear the filter slide into place inside the projector. Now I'll admit I don't know all the details, but I've read in Epson documentation that only Digital Cinema mode can display the entire DCI-P3 color space, but I do know that Cinema mode also uses the filter. I don't know what else is different in the processing between Digital Cinema and Cinema. Now, despite what Epson says, a guy who posts on here, Oledurt, recently had his Epson professionally calibrated and I believe his calibrator said that Bright Cinema was also capable of displaying P3 despite not using the filter, so who knows? I spent a couple hours last night trying to calibrate Digital Cinema mode using HDR test patterns and the picture is just too dark for me. This weekend I'm going to go back and recalibrate Bright Cinema using the HDR test patterns and see what happens.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

@TJ said:


> Planning to project from a throw distance of 15', screen size of 120". Does projector throw distance affect how high/low the screen can be placed?


You will be fine at 15'. I am at 14' and I can do 120" with image 12" from ceiling, but, 'Image Zoom' is almost all the way up. So, you should have plenty of play @ 15'. Now, if you want to go bigger than 120", you might run into problems.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

HarleyRider said:


> This weekend I'm going to go back and recalibrate Bright Cinema using the HDR test patterns and see what happens.


I'm looking forward to your results. I have to use 'Bright Cinema'. I think it looks great, but hey, if I can get it to look better, what the hey.


----------



## gene4ht

chevpowr said:


> Just hooked up the Sony UBP-X800. *Its incredible. Watched the Revenant and it looks amazing!* Life of Pi is coming up next
> 
> I wanted to tell you guys that I am getting 24hz, 12 bit, 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR. Netflix is outputting the same
> 
> I am running a 25 ft HDMI connected to another 15ft HDMI cable with a coupler. Didn't want to spend extra money on a 40ft cable to find out it wasn't gonna work. These are cables I got at Fry's for cheap.
> 
> All my components running into a Denon 510BT which allows full passthrough up to 18gbps I believe.
> For $299 this player really delivers. *The HDR looks great.* ill get some screenshots later if y'all want.
> 
> Right now Im shooting onto a smooth wall with DIY ALR screen paint, which I know isn't optimal, but the picture still looks great. Im looking into some solutions for an ALR tab tension screen that doesn't break the bank


Glad you're enjoying the 800! Can you be a bit more specific in describing what "incredible and looks great" mean? Most owners of PJs using HDR find the image too dark...especially on films like The Revenant. Thanks!


----------



## chevpowr

gene4ht said:


> Glad you're enjoying the 800! Can you be a bit more specific in describing what "incredible and looks great" mean? Most owners of PJs using HDR find the image too dark...especially on films like The Revenant. Thanks!


I would say its probably a little darker than the original in some spots, but it also seems to me to be brighter in other spots. I am by no means an expert, but it looks like a really good picture to me. I would say in bright cinema mode its colors are a little off but I haven't done any picture setting changes. I would say that the pixel shift faux k technology in this thing really makes a noticeable difference in sharpness and clarity compared to a normal blu ray.
Im really happy to finally be getting to watch a high quality source as opposed to my roku premiere+ streaming amazon HDR.


----------



## chevpowr

Snoogleheimer said:


> You will be fine at 15'. I am at 14' and I can do 120" with image 12" from ceiling, but, 'Image Zoom' is almost all the way up. So, you should have plenty of play @ 15'. Now, if you want to go bigger than 120", you might run into problems.


I have mine ceiling mouted at 15' and it is awesome. the zoom out for cinemascope makes it even better.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

chevpowr said:


> I have mine ceiling mouted at 15' and it is awesome. the zoom out for cinemascope makes it even better.


Yes, I'm definitely getting a 2.35:1 screen. I don't even understand why we are still dealing with the obsolete 16:9 format.


----------



## @TJ

Snoogleheimer said:


> You will be fine at 15'. I am at 14' and I can do 120" with image 12" from ceiling, but, 'Image Zoom' is almost all the way up. So, you should have plenty of play @ 15'. Now, if you want to go bigger than 120", you might run into problems.


Thanks Snoogleheimer, much appreciated. What's the height of your floor to ceiling? I'm at 7'6" after drywall.



chevpowr said:


> I have mine ceiling mouted at 15' and it is awesome. the zoom out for cinemascope makes it even better.


That's great to know, phew! Thanks guys


----------



## Snoogleheimer

@TJ said:


> Thanks Snoogleheimer, much appreciated. What's the height of your floor to ceiling?


8'. I have to project my image high off the floor (about 3') because of the layout of my room. I was debating on 120" or 130" 2.35:1 screen. With 130", the screen would only be about 5" from ceiling. Anyway, once I realized I can't zoom out enough from 14' for 130" screen, decision became much easier.


----------



## jaychatbonneau

What happens if you feed a rec 709 signal into Cinema and Digital Cinema?


----------



## Geraldius

@TJ said:


> Sorry if this has been answered...
> Planning to project from a throw distance of 15', screen size of 120". Does projector throw distance affect how high/low the screen can be placed?
> 
> I ask because the "screen height" at the epson calculator seems to go red at certain throw distances (https://files.support.epson.com/pdc/eai/html5/index.html )


I'm projecting from the ceiling at 14.5 feet onto a 135" 16x9 screen. At this distance there is just a little bit of zoom left to go a couple inches bigger. Projector lens is centered about 9" below the 8' ceiling, and the top of the screen is about 6" below the ceiling.
You'll have no problem -- there is plenty of lens shift for your situation.


----------



## GregCh

jaychatbonneau said:


> What happens if you feed a rec 709 signal into Cinema and Digital Cinema?


Nothing. It just projects using rec. 709. 

BT 2020 and DCI P3 are larger color spaces than rec 709. So if the projector receives a rec. 709 signal while in Cinema mode it will reproduce it accurately if calibrated. 

If it receives a BT 2020 signal it can reproduce DCI P3 in the Cinema and Digital Cinema modes only. Cinema and Digital Cinema are the only modes with the P3 color filter engaged. So all other modes can only accurately reproduce rec. 709 and have to make compromises when sent a BT2020 signal because they can only accurately reproduce about 75% of DCI P3. To some this is not a problem because they have poor color vision. To others it will look off.

About 10 percent of all US males are color blind. The percentage of males suffering from some deficiency in color vision is even higher.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Sort of off topic, but I wanted to try out the new Zelda game, so my friend let me borrow his Wii U. Holy **** balls. 720p, no AA, on a 110" screen cut my eyeballs. No thanks. I'll wait till emulators get this running at at least 1080p. Good god.


----------



## HarleyRider

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Sort of off topic, but I wanted to try out the new Zelda game, so my friend let me borrow his Wii U. Holy **** balls. 720p, no AA, on a 110" screen cut my eyeballs. No thanks. I'll wait till emulators get this running at at least 1080p. Good god.


LOL...just like the original Wii. I remember buying an RGB component video cable and trying to upscale using my AVR in an effort to get a better picture on my old Panasonic PT-AE3000 projector.


----------



## Geraldius

livitup311 said:


> I could use some help guys...
> 
> 
> I don't have a screen yet. The dimensions available at the front of the room are 158 inches wide by 8'9 1/2" height. This space will either include speakers beside the screen, or behind the screen in a false wall with acoustically transparent screen. The room is 23'9" long. There will be a front row at about 12 feet, and then two rows behind that on a 2-level riser...


It's going to be pretty tight getting a 3rd row in that room. The back row will be right up against the wall and close to the ceiling / low head room. You'll also need at least 2' of riser for the back row. If you place the projector at the back of the room that 3rd row will have people bumping into the projector with their heads.


I've got a 13' wide x 24' long room and decided to only do 2 rows after playing around with dimensions on CAD. 2nd row riser is 12" and the view just barely clears the front row. Instead of a third row I'm contemplating adding a bar and some tall bar chairs for the occasional overflow of guests.


----------



## whmacs

Hi All,
A few people have asked what images look like if you use the HDFury Integral or Linker to strip HDR from a BT.2020 4K blu-ray. Picture quality isn't the best as I just took the below with my iPhone. The lights at the bottom of each image are from the Epson wireless transmitter.

The first image is 4K BT.2020 HDR1 with the Epson set to Bright Cinema (default settings). The second image uses the Integral to strip the HDR. It is 4K BT.2020 SDR with the Epson set to Natural as Bright Cinema is too bright (and washes the image out a bit, default settings again). 

4K BT.2020 HDR1 (Bright Cinema)









4K BT.2020 SDR (Natural)









Regards,
Stephen


----------



## Evan201

whmacs said:


> Hi All,
> A few people have asked what images look like if you use the HDFury Integral or Linker to strip HDR from a BT.2020 4K blu-ray. Picture quality isn't the best as I just took the below with my iPhone. The lights at the bottom of each image are from the Epson wireless transmitter.
> 
> The first image is 4K BT.2020 HDR1 with the Epson set to Bright Cinema (default settings). The second image uses the Integral to strip the HDR. It is 4K BT.2020 SDR with the Epson set to Natural as Bright Cinema is too bright (and washes the image out a bit, default settings again).
> 
> 4K BT.2020 HDR1 (Bright Cinema)
> Stephen


Thanks for this. I'm sticking with HDR. Doesn't seem worth the $200 for the integral/linker to me personally since the 1.09 FM update. Sure some may disagree.


----------



## NoTechi

Evan201 said:


> Thanks for this. I'm sticking with HDR. Doesn't seem worth the $200 for the integral/linker to me personally since the 1.09 FM update. Sure some may disagree.


I got a linker and it is between my second hdmi out from my receiver to the wireless transmitter. I also have the receiver connected on first hdmi out direct by hdmi cable without wireless and linker.

My experience is that for my use cases most of the time I am using the wired non linker way. Reason is that handshakes are faster and I get what I want e.g. Netflix 4k HDR via the shield. Same for watching 4k HDR movies.

The only time I am using the wireless + linker variant is when plaing Xbox One S since thats like the only way I was able to get HDR in games. The linker is needed to convince the xbox that the connected screen is able to play 4k hdr and then it will send 4k hdr 60Hz. Additionally I use the linker to scale down to 1080p by keeping HDR so the projector is able to handle the 60Hz HDR. Not nice but best I was able to squeesh out of the Xbox/Epson setup for now.

So I have to agree with you if I would not like to play some xbox one s games in hdr from time to time I would not need the linker and not even the wireless.

NoTechi


----------



## cappy83

*Vudu Rentals in UHD on Epson 5040ub*

Does anyone know if these will work? I use the Vudu app on the Xbox One S and I want to make sure it will even play. It looks like the app does not support rentals and you must go through the web browser to rent and play through the app. Has anyone used this to rent movies? Thanks for your help!


Sean


----------



## sddp

GregCh said:


> Nothing. It just projects using rec. 709.
> 
> BT 2020 and DCI P3 are larger color spaces than rec 709. So if the projector receives a rec. 709 signal while in Cinema mode it will reproduce it accurately if calibrated.
> 
> If it receives a BT 2020 signal it can reproduce DCI P3 in the Cinema and Digital Cinema modes only. Cinema and Digital Cinema are the only modes with the P3 color filter engaged. So all other modes can only accurately reproduce rec. 709 and have to make compromises when sent a BT2020 signal because they can only accurately reproduce about 75% of DCI P3. To some this is not a problem because they have poor color vision. To others it will look off.
> 
> About 10 percent of all US males are color blind. The percentage of males suffering from some deficiency in color vision is even higher.




Hey thanks for all the info!


Just to pay it forward about the color blind thingy. here's some videos I found to check out who's in the %10:












http://colorvisiontesting.com/


----------



## inspector

Here's my question after reading all these posts...


Since there are 5 discs out there (UHDBD...BD...2D/3D...3D...DVD) what are the setting for each one?


Where can someone go to get these settings. Projectoreviews is a good starting place but there has to be a site that breaks down discs and tells you what each one should be at...no?


This 6040 has so much **** going on that it's hard to enjoy.


Even the active 3D glasses aren't perfect like my passive 3D glasses for my den TV (Mit 3D DLP 65738.)...still a very slight background ghosting! A $100 for a pair of glasses, it should be perfected?


I'm not into all the other crap...just physical discs.


----------



## deagle007

inspector said:


> Here's my question after reading all these posts...
> 
> 
> Since there are 5 discs out there (UHDBD...BD...2D/3D...3D...DVD) what are the setting for each one?
> 
> 
> Where can someone go to get these settings. Projectoreviews is a good starting place but there has to be a site that breaks down discs and tells you what each one should be at...no?
> 
> 
> This 6040 has so much **** going on that it's hard to enjoy.
> 
> 
> Even the active 3D glasses aren't perfect like my passive 3D glasses for my den TV (Mit 3D DLP 65738.)...still a very slight background ghosting! A $100 for a pair of glasses, it should be perfected?
> 
> 
> I'm not into all the other crap...just physical discs.


Absolutely agree. It would be nice if there was a way to take that info once available and make a sticky thread so it doesnt get lost in this thread. Ive got the 5040ube and just started trying to get decent 3d and it seems hopeless so far. Either too much cross talk and everything too dark.

Thanks


----------



## TheGizzard

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone. I am now up and running with my 100' screen (soon to be 125") Shield TV (2015) and the 5040. I've HDR working on 4K 23.976 and 2020 4:2:2. Using the recommended HDR settings here I am very happy so far. Thank you!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

inspector said:


> Even the active 3D glasses aren't perfect like my passive 3D glasses for my den TV (Mit 3D DLP 65738.)...still a very slight background ghosting! A $100 for a pair of glasses, it should be perfected?


Just curious, what brand of 3D glasses are you using? I've been in touch with Epson tech support about the 3D crosstalk/ghosting issue, and they claim they have been able to reproduce the issue when using third party glasses, but they say there should be no issues with Epson glasses. I sent them links to the numerous posts in this thread from owners experiencing crosstalk/ghosting with this projector, and they told me they would escalate my ticket for further investigation. I have 3Active and Xpand glasses, and both have these issues on about half of the 3D discs I have tried.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## SolRebel

terminal33 said:


> Do you have the Oppo connected directly to the Epson, or to an AVR? If AVR, do you have any video conversion enabled? I had to turn off any processing on my Denon AVR and set it to "Bypass." This eliminated any banding.


Thanks for this! I have a Denon and setting to bypass seems to have fixed it. Stoked!


----------



## elmalloc

I'm coming from an *Epson 8350 *also, one of the best 2D gaming projectors around for a long time.

But it can't hold a candle to the 5040's contrast ratio, all other things aside. 4K Netflix looks amazing on the 5040. Feed it the right sources, get your settings right. There's definitely more fiddling with settings to do with such a variety of sources, I have 5 or 6 settings memory saved on this projector so far.

There's a review on amazon showing side by side images of the 8350 vs 5040, no comparison.


----------



## inspector

seplant said:


> Just curious, what brand of 3D glasses are you using? I've been in touch with Epson tech support about the 3D crosstalk/ghosting issue, and they claim they have been able to reproduce the issue when using third party glasses, but they say there should be no issues with Epson glasses. I sent them links to the numerous posts in this thread from owners experiencing crosstalk/ghosting with this projector, and they told me they would escalate my ticket for further investigation. I have 3Active and Xpand glasses, and both have these issues on about half of the 3D discs I have tried.



Thanks for asking. They're Epson V12H548006 (ELPGS03). I'm going to watch a short movie before I watch HOUSE OF WAX again. Maybe the PJ needs to warm up...I'll get back to you.


Also, a BIG THANKYOU for your "my Epson 5040/6040 mini-wiki" Going to see if I can get this PJ calibrated correctly for all the different cinema modes for the 5 different discs (UHDBD, BD, 3D BD, 2D/3D BD and DVD.)


EDIT: Just tried watching HOUSE OF WAX and at the 29 min. mark the ghosting gets worse. It's always in the background. Tried DIAL M FOR MURDER and that ghosting starts right off with Robert Cummings having a halo around him. Next up was MY BLOODY VALENTINE and BATMAN V SUPERMAN...both with ghosting.


PM me and we can tag team Epson to fix this problem. I didn't buy a new 3D projector/player to have crappy 3D!!!


----------



## TheGizzard

Projector mounted. But needed keystone correction. I can't mount the projector level because the image will be on the ceiling. Is there a way to correct for that without changing the mount?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

*st Blu Ray playback: XBOX One S or Sony PS4*

I have both the Sony PS4 and the Xbox One S. Out of the two, which one would play the best picture for a Blu Ray disc?
Would they both play back the same exact same quality?
There are times I think the Xbox plays back a sharper picture and other times the PS4. I am beginning to feel my mind is playing tricks on me. Any technical date sheets on one vs. the other?


----------



## njbrodeur87

Ok so hopefully someone can help me. Having an issue with Netflix HDR. So I have the 5040 connected to Denon x3300 to an NVidia shield Tv 2017. Updated 5040 to 1.09 and updated Netflix. If I set to 4k60 I don't get hdr anywhere, as I assume I heard its not supported with the 5040 that high, so I only use 4k60 with games and youtube and regular 4k Netflix and amazon. Ok so I switch to 4k 23.97 I reboot. Amazon video does play now in HDR 2020 as I saw in INFO on the projector. Netflix however will not show UHD any longer in the menu once I switch to 4k 23.97. So right now its either 4k60 4k Netflix and amazon with no hdr, or 23.97 4k with hdr on amazon video but no Netflix hdr or 4k shows up. I did reboot same issue. Anyone have any ideas why Netflix wont show UHD HDR when under 4k 23.97 like it should>? Any ideas and help


----------



## inspector

Just talked to Epson tech support about the 3D ghosting and they are escalating my ticket higher too.


They said to call back on Monday. The guy was adamant about the problem will be fixed...damn, they better. I'll be a beta tester for some new glasses that actually work!!!


----------



## rmilyard

njbrodeur87 said:


> Ok so hopefully someone can help me. Having an issue with Netflix HDR. So I have the 5040 connected to Denon x3300 to an NVidia shield Tv 2017. Updated 5040 to 1.09 and updated Netflix. If I set to 4k60 I don't get hdr anywhere, as I assume I heard its not supported with the 5040 that high, so I only use 4k60 with games and youtube and regular 4k Netflix and amazon. Ok so I switch to 4k 23.97 I reboot. Amazon video does play now in HDR 2020 as I saw in INFO on the projector. Netflix however will not show UHD any longer in the menu once I switch to 4k 23.97. So right now its either 4k60 4k Netflix and amazon with no hdr, or 23.97 4k with hdr on amazon video but no Netflix hdr or 4k shows up. I did reboot same issue. Anyone have any ideas why Netflix wont show UHD HDR when under 4k 23.97 like it should>? Any ideas and help


Keep Shield at [email protected] Not sure why but a few days later HDR with Netflix worked for me. I did chat them so not sure if did something on their end but working now for me.


----------



## seplant

inspector said:


> Just talked to Epson tech support about the 3D ghosting and they are escalating my ticket higher too.
> 
> 
> They said to call back on Monday. The guy was adamant about the problem will be fixed...damn, they better. I'll be a beta tester for some new glasses that actually work!!!


No fair! I want to be a beta tester too!!  

Actually, I just want the problems fixed!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

inspector said:


> Just talked to Epson tech support about the 3D ghosting and they are escalating my ticket higher too.
> 
> 
> They said to call back on Monday. The guy was adamant about the problem will be fixed...damn, they better. I'll be a beta tester for some new glasses that actually work!!!


I have 4 pairs of the Epson glasses and 4 pairs of the cheap Samsung glasses. Both brands have some crosstalk on 3D especially with background images too.


----------



## aaranddeeman

TheGizzard said:


> Projector mounted. But needed keystone correction. I can't mount the projector level because the image will be on the ceiling. Is there a way to correct for that without changing the mount?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Lens shift...


----------



## TheGizzard

aaranddeeman said:


> Lens shift...


Literally realized that while I was typing. My issue now is the ceiling mount I have doesn't seem to be able to hold the projector level. The lens is drooping. 

Anyone else have this problem with their ceiling mount? Any suggestions?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

TheGizzard said:


> Literally realized that while I was typing. My issue now is the ceiling mount I have doesn't seem to be able to hold the projector level. The lens is drooping.
> 
> Anyone else have this problem with their ceiling mount? Any suggestions?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


What mount is this?


----------



## TheGizzard

aaranddeeman said:


> What mount is this?


It's the flush mount that came free with the projector from VisualApex.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Here's what I just did to get rid of 99% of ghosting and the setting:
IMAGE
Color Mode - 3D DYNAMIC
Brightness, Contrast, Color Saturation, Tint - all 50
Sharpness
Standard - 5
Thin Line Enhancement - 5
Thick Line Enhancement - 5
Color Temp
Color Temp - 4
Skin Tone - 3
Customized
Offset R, G, B all 50
Gain R, G, B all 50
Frame Interrolation - NORMAL
Image Enhancement
Preset - 3
Noise Reduction - 4
Mpeg Nosie Reduction - 1
Super Resolution
Fine Line Adjustment - 4
Soft Focus Detail - 4
Detail Enhancement
Strength - 25
Range - 25
Advanced
Gamma - 0
RGBCY - all 50
Epson Super White -OFF
Power Consumption - ECO
Auto Iris - HIGH SPEED
3D Setup
3D Display - AUTO
3D Depth - 1 THIS IS THE ONE that is either 1 or -1, this will take care of 99% of the ghosting. You'll see which one is best for you as you toggle between them.
Diagonal Screen Size - YOUR SCREEN SIZE
3D Brightness - HIGH
Inverse 3D Glasses - DO NOTHING
3D Viewing On - ?
Aspect - NORMAL
Advanced
HDMI Video Range - AUTO
Image Processing - FINE 
User Button - 3D DISPLAY 


Even after doing these adjustments, there are a few scenes that still have slight background ghosting, but they are very few.


----------



## OriginalWhitey

I just got my Epson 5040 today and it's insane. This is my first real projector so I don't have much to compare it to but its better than my 70"Visio. Couldn't be happier


----------



## Geraldius

TheGizzard said:


> Literally realized that while I was typing. My issue now is the ceiling mount I have doesn't seem to be able to hold the projector level. The lens is drooping.
> 
> Anyone else have this problem with their ceiling mount? Any suggestions?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I used a Peerless AV gear drive mount. The gear adjusters make fine tuning the pitch and yaw effortless, and the adjustment range of the mounting arms allows the mount to be well centered. You want to get it centered over the balance point so that you aren't fighting gravity.


----------



## flyguyjake

I cannot seem to get focus razor sharp especially menus from my HTPC. Letters aren't crisp. Anyone else having this problem?


----------



## aaranddeeman

flyguyjake said:


> I cannot seem to get focus razor sharp especially menus from my HTPC. Letters aren't crisp. Anyone else having this problem?


Does the Epson menu look sharp? If it does then it's your HTPC..


----------



## elmalloc

Make sure you're getting one to one pixel mapping. Also remember it's still a 1920 x 1080 projector at heart, I'd try without 4k enhancement on. Small fonts are probably going to look blurriness than a monitor. I haven't hooked up my PC yet so no comment on how to do pixel mapping, I had to figure that out with my epson 8350.


----------



## philipbtz

flyguyjake said:


> I cannot seem to get focus razor sharp especially menus from my HTPC. Letters aren't crisp. Anyone else having this problem?


Turn off e-shift and you will see that text is much sharper. At least that's what I noticed with the Nvidia Shield.


----------



## TheGizzard

Watching Iron Fist 4K HDR on the Shield. Loving it. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Draper

philipbtz said:


> Turn off e-shift and you will see that text is much sharper. At least that's what I noticed with the Nvidia Shield.


I noticed this with textures on the ps4 games..why is that?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

Don Draper said:


> I noticed this with textures on the ps4 games..why is that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Oddly enough, I play games without 4K enhancement on. It does remove any pixel visibility (turning on 4K enhancement), but in some instances the games look slightly sharper without 4k enhancement on. You can still set an image enhancement preset, even so.

I have different settings for the following:

HDR Movies
SDR Movies
Wii-U/Switch
PS4 PRO HDR
PS4 PRO SDR


----------



## TheGizzard

Is it possible to take in a 4K signal and not use 4K enhancement? 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## philipbtz

Don Draper said:


> I noticed this with textures on the ps4 games..why is that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Because it's shifting the pixels causing blur. Oddly enough it looks sharper with it on while watching movies.


----------



## Don Draper

philipbtz said:


> Because it's shifting the pixels causing blur. Oddly enough it looks sharper with it on while watching movies.


I guess the question then is this apparent only because the image is paused and works to more of an advantage on live action

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Very newbie question here (my apologies) I am ordering the 5040ub and screen today. With my denon 4311ci and denon 3113ubt 1080p Blu-ray I can still watch content in 1080P with those devices correct? 

I will be adding the x7300WA 4k receiver and phillips 4K Bluray player (trying to figure out wich one is compatible with projector) soon.


----------



## aaranddeeman

robc1976 said:


> Very newbie question here (my apologies) I am ordering the 5040ub and screen today. With my denon 4311ci and denon 3113ubt 1080p Blu-ray I can still watch content in 1080P with those devices correct?


Yes.


----------



## seplant

inspector said:


> Here's what I just did to get rid of 99% of ghosting and the setting:
> IMAGE
> Color Mode - 3D DYNAMIC
> Brightness, Contrast, Color Saturation, Tint - all 50
> Sharpness
> Standard - 5
> Thin Line Enhancement - 5
> Thick Line Enhancement - 5
> Color Temp
> Color Temp - 4
> Skin Tone - 3
> Customized
> Offset R, G, B all 50
> Gain R, G, B all 50
> Frame Interrolation - NORMAL
> Image Enhancement
> Preset - 3
> Noise Reduction - 4
> Mpeg Nosie Reduction - 1
> Super Resolution
> Fine Line Adjustment - 4
> Soft Focus Detail - 4
> Detail Enhancement
> Strength - 25
> Range - 25
> Advanced
> Gamma - 0
> RGBCY - all 50
> Epson Super White -OFF
> Power Consumption - ECO
> Auto Iris - HIGH SPEED
> 3D Setup
> 3D Display - AUTO
> 3D Depth - 1 THIS IS THE ONE that is either 1 or -1, this will take care of 99% of the ghosting. You'll see which one is best for you as you toggle between them.
> Diagonal Screen Size - YOUR SCREEN SIZE
> 3D Brightness - HIGH
> Inverse 3D Glasses - DO NOTHING
> 3D Viewing On - ?
> Aspect - NORMAL
> Advanced
> HDMI Video Range - AUTO
> Image Processing - FINE
> User Button - 3D DISPLAY
> 
> 
> Even after doing these adjustments, there are a few scenes that still have slight background ghosting, but they are very few.


Some titles are worse than others. Edge of Tomorrow is just horrible. Adjusting 3D Depth seems to help only on a single layer, but all of the other depth layers then show terrible crosstalk. Setting 3D Brightness to High makes the ghosting more pronounced. I have tried multiple titles, and even the best, including Star Wars the Force Awakens and Avatar, show some s signs of ghosting, which can be made worse by adjusting brightness and depth. Who knows, maybe my old 6010 had similar issues, but the 6040 being so much brighter may accentuate the issues. I certainly never noticed any issues with the 6010.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## chevpowr

Can anyone share there settings for HDR? Im using Bright Cinema and the color seems just a bit off.


----------



## inspector

seplant said:


> Some titles are worse than others. Edge of Tomorrow is just horrible. Adjusting 3D Depth seems to help only on a single layer, but all of the other depth layers then show terrible crosstalk. Setting 3D Brightness to High makes the ghosting more pronounced. I have tried multiple titles, and even the best, including Star Wars the Force Awakens and Avatar, show some s signs of ghosting, which can be made worse by adjusting brightness and depth. Who knows, maybe my old 6010 had similar issues, but the 6040 being so much brighter may accentuate the issues. I certainly never noticed any issues with the 6010.





Well, I have only 15 titles and just went thru each one setting up the 3D DEPTH with a post-it inside each case to remind me.


Creature From the Black Lagoon -1, It came from Outer Space 1, House of Wax 1, Dial M for Murder 2, Ant Man 2, Batman v Superman 0 Gog 0 (boy, can't even see the 3D) I, Frankenstein 1, Jaws 3 -4, Sin City: A Dame 0, Texas Chainsaw 1, 3D Rarities 0, Passengers 0, My Bloody Valentine 1, Guardians of the Galaxy 0.


As you can see, almost all needed help, but Jaws was the winner.


When I talk with Epson tomorrow, I'm going to inquire why we have to even use that 3D DEPTH, are all 3D movies that jacked up? And can they show us where to get calibration setting for BD, UHBD and 3D.


----------



## darkangelism

What mount should I get for this? Probably need a 1-3 foot drop, with my 12 foot high ceiling. Is the visual apex one good or should I go peerless?


----------



## inspector

seplant said:


> Some titles are worse than others. Edge of Tomorrow is just horrible. Adjusting 3D Depth seems to help only on a single layer, but all of the other depth layers then show terrible crosstalk. Setting 3D Brightness to High makes the ghosting more pronounced. I have tried multiple titles, and even the best, including Star Wars the Force Awakens and Avatar, show some s signs of ghosting, which can be made worse by adjusting brightness and depth. Who knows, maybe my old 6010 had similar issues, but the 6040 being so much brighter may accentuate the issues. I certainly never noticed any issues with the 6010.



I didn't say anything but "GOG" was flat, not 3D and yes the PJ said I was watching 3D. Asked over at HTF and one guy said to start the picture from CHAPTERS. I did and now that movie is in 3D. He said it sometimes happens with Kino Lober 3Ds. So, into the case with a post-it on how to start the movie.


----------



## MississippiMan

darkangelism said:


> What mount should I get for this? Probably need a 1-3 foot drop, with my 12 foot high ceiling. Is the visual apex one good or should I go peerless?


Neither.

Get the *Chief RPA 357 *"Projector Specific" Mount w/a Peerless ACC570 Ceiling Plate
There is absolutely no lower Profile or sturdier Mount in existence.

Call "Kirk Ritari @ Projector People - Ext. 2002. 
He _*WILL*_ give you the best price if you mention AVS as a referral. 

As for the Drop Pipe itself, your Choice is either a Steel Pipe, or Schedule 40 PVC Pipe w/2 Threaded Male Couplings. Home Depot sells a 24" Section for about $4.00 and the Couplings for $1.30 ea. You will need Primer & Glue ($6.76 Combo Package)

I myself like the PVC option best as it is extremely easy to work with, very sturdy while being much lighter in weight....and so very easy to cut to the exact length you need / want.


----------



## [email protected]

I am checking to see if anyone has had issues with dead pixels on their unit?

I have had my 5040UBE for a few days now. However, while watching the 12 hours of Sebring, the image developed a vertical band of dead/stuck cyan pixels. I estimate the band width to be about 20-30 pixels, so it is extremely noticeable from 11' away.

Surprisingly, I didn't see the band develop. I had stepped away to load some laundry and when I came back I noticed the anomaly. I thought it was the source at first, but after changing the channel and also switching inputs, the vertical band of cyan pixels remained. Power cycling did nothing.

Bulb only has 19 hours on it and was purchased new from Amazon during the sale.

I am going to return the unit tomorrow. Not sure if I will get another unit or go to the JVC RS-420. That I am still debating. I do like the wireless feature of the projector and the overall quality of the picture is great. JVC is a touch better in some regards, and not so much in others. HDMI chipset and 'future proof' definitely lies with the JVC.

So I am in a tough place.

Unless anyone has recommendations on fixing the stuck pixels.


----------



## philipbtz

[email protected] said:


> I am checking to see if anyone has had issues with dead pixels on their unit?
> 
> I have had my 5040UBE for a few days now. However, while watching the 12 hours of Sebring, the image developed a vertical band of dead/stuck cyan pixels. I estimate the band width to be about 20-30 pixels, so it is extremely noticeable from 11' away.
> 
> Surprisingly, I didn't see the band develop. I had stepped away to load some laundry and when I came back I noticed the anomaly. I thought it was the source at first, but after changing the channel and also switching inputs, the vertical band of cyan pixels remained. Power cycling did nothing.
> 
> Bulb only has 19 hours on it and was purchased new from Amazon during the sale.
> 
> I am going to return the unit tomorrow. Not sure if I will get another unit or go to the JVC RS-420. That I am still debating. I do like the wireless feature of the projector and the overall quality of the picture is great. JVC is a touch better in some regards, and not so much in others. HDMI chipset and 'future proof' definitely lies with the JVC.
> 
> So I am in a tough place.
> 
> Unless anyone has recommendations on fixing the stuck pixels.


I've seen something similar on my unit but I'm pretty sure it's a cable problem. Went away when I reconnected the cable.

Kind of related to this I'm seeing this kind of flicker sometimes in bright scenes. Usually when a large part of the image has a sky in it etc. I know my 5 meter (16.4 feet) cable can barely transmit the image but I've never seen this kind of anomaly before with failing HDMI signal. Sometimes it gets really bad but goes away when I reconnect. Most likely the cable but I haven't got around to ordering a new one since the only ones that seem to work has to be ordered from the US.


----------



## cappy83

*Dead Pixel*



[email protected] said:


> I am checking to see if anyone has had issues with dead pixels on their unit?
> 
> I have had my 5040UBE for a few days now. However, while watching the 12 hours of Sebring, the image developed a vertical band of dead/stuck cyan pixels. I estimate the band width to be about 20-30 pixels, so it is extremely noticeable from 11' away.
> 
> Surprisingly, I didn't see the band develop. I had stepped away to load some laundry and when I came back I noticed the anomaly. I thought it was the source at first, but after changing the channel and also switching inputs, the vertical band of cyan pixels remained. Power cycling did nothing.
> 
> Bulb only has 19 hours on it and was purchased new from Amazon during the sale.
> 
> I am going to return the unit tomorrow. Not sure if I will get another unit or go to the JVC RS-420. That I am still debating. I do like the wireless feature of the projector and the overall quality of the picture is great. JVC is a touch better in some regards, and not so much in others. HDMI chipset and 'future proof' definitely lies with the JVC.
> 
> So I am in a tough place.
> 
> Unless anyone has recommendations on fixing the stuck pixels.



I sure have.............Bought the 5040UB about a week ago and watched it for about an hour and noticed that it had 2 dead pixels. Called VisualaPex and they sent me a new one once I mailed this one back....Just got the new one yesterday and I now have a line of dead pixels and not just a few. I would go with the JVC, due to the quality control and the headache to try to get anything to work consistently with HDR it's worth the extra $. I'll let you know if third times a charm!


----------



## sjerseydad22

seplant said:


> Some titles are worse than others. Edge of Tomorrow is just horrible. Adjusting 3D Depth seems to help only on a single layer, but all of the other depth layers then show terrible crosstalk. Setting 3D Brightness to High makes the ghosting more pronounced. I have tried multiple titles, and even the best, including Star Wars the Force Awakens and Avatar, show some s signs of ghosting, which can be made worse by adjusting brightness and depth. Who knows, maybe my old 6010 had similar issues, but the 6040 being so much brighter may accentuate the issues. I certainly never noticed any issues with the 6010.


I too am having similar 3D crosstalk issues with a new 5040 (which is disappointing as I jumped the gun, bought four Epson glasses and two of the Pannys plus over a dozen 3D BD titles). Has anyone compared 3D capabilities of the Sony HW45ES to the Epson? I appreciate the 4k pixel shift tech (which when combined with an OPPO 203 looks great) but what I was really after was a quality 3D experience and it hasn't happened with the Epson. I'm still within the return window fortunately and may try out the Sony.


----------



## [email protected]

cappy83 said:


> I sure have.............Bought the 5040UB about a week ago and watched it for about an hour and noticed that it had 2 dead pixels. Called VisualaPex and they sent me a new one once I mailed this one back....Just got the new one yesterday and I now have a line of dead pixels and not just a few. I would go with the JVC, due to the quality control and the headache to try to get anything to work consistently with HDR it's worth the extra $. I'll let you know if third times a charm!


Interesting, let me know how it works out. I too got mine from 'Visual Apex' although I am sure it was Amazon stock ('Fulfillment by Amazon', etc.).

I'll likely go with the JVC and just run an HDMI cable. Only thing is it will likely be a 35-40' run given how big my living room is. We shall see.


----------



## jladner

sjerseydad22 said:


> I too am having similar 3D crosstalk issues with a new 5040 (which is disappointing as I jumped the gun, bought four Epson glasses and two of the Pannys plus over a dozen 3D BD titles). Has anyone compared 3D capabilities of the Sony HW45ES to the Epson? I appreciate the 4k pixel shift tech (which when combined with an OPPO 203 looks great) but what I was really after was a quality 3D experience and it hasn't happened with the Epson. I'm still within the return window fortunately and may try out the Sony.


I am having the same issues. Bought this projector hoping for a better 3D experience. I had a DLP projector with no crosstalk but very dim on my 150" screen. On the Epson 5040UB it is much brighter; but, I am making adjustments for most discs to minimize it. I do find an occasional movie that is perfect - no crosstalk - with no adjustments needed (one I remember was The Force Awakens) so maybe there is hope. Firmware update?? I have to add that regular 2D blu rays look fabulous with this projector.


----------



## john barlow

Geraldius said:


> I used a Peerless AV gear drive mount. The gear adjusters make fine tuning the pitch and yaw effortless, and the adjustment range of the mounting arms allows the mount to be well centered. You want to get it centered over the balance point so that you aren't fighting gravity.


Both of my Panny's were ceiling mounted. The bulkiness of the epson 5040 lends itself to shelf mounting. I bought two heavy duty brackets from Lowes and a 27 inch by 20 inch medium density MDF board. I brushed on black enamel and mounted it above the entry door to our theater. Great move for us. There's also room for a power conditioner with UPS. No more ceiling mounts in our theater.


----------



## john barlow

Snoogleheimer said:


> Yes, I'm definitely getting a 2.35:1 screen. I don't even understand why we are still dealing with the obsolete 16:9 format.


Because of the fact that a majority of users have a flat panel that is 16x9. Until the higher end Sony PJ's and now Epson, Panny AE4000U thru the current AE800U offered lens memory and zoom to cinemascope values. I was elated when Epson jumped on board because I think Epson is dedicated to it's consumers. 
Ee


----------



## john barlow

deagle007 said:


> Absolutely agree. It would be nice if there was a way to take that info once available and make a sticky thread so it doesnt get lost in this thread. Ive got the 5040ube and just started trying to get decent 3d and it seems hopeless so far. Either too much cross talk and everything too dark.
> 
> Thanks


I don't use wireless because I don't own the UBE model. I eventually found that it's the glasses that actually determine the quality of the 3D image from the Epson. I'm using a 3rd party pair and the image is usually stunning. Occasional ghosting mostly text but, it's the glasses you choose that will matter. _ Epson compatible Value Vue 3D Glasses._


----------



## john barlow

Evan201 said:


> Sure, but in motion at a mile a minute, without ISF calibration, I'm enjoying the overall tone of the UHD discs way more with these settings.
> I'm more worried about bringing up the low lights which these settings definitely do. I'm not a complete videophile and I use my projector for everything from standard television to UHD movies so I'm just looking for a decent compromise without dropping $350 in calibration right now. I'm loving it. I could potentially even drop the contrast to 85 and up the lamp to medium. Will probably serve just as well.


I'd be thrilled to drop $350 on a professional calibration. I just wish I could find one in the Lansing area to do the job.


----------



## rmilyard

john barlow said:


> I'd be thrilled to drop $350 on a professional calibration. I just wish I could find one in the Lansing area to do the job.


Guy here in Phoenix quoted me $500. Pass for now.


----------



## inspector

Where's he driving from...Texas!!! Pass his ass!


----------



## inspector

Okay, just talked to Epson tech support and here's what he had to say. Not every disc is made the same way, hence the ghosting. 


The main thing is to "READ" the manual (you know, that 192 pile of paper you had to print out 'cause they couldn't be bothered giving you!!!) It gives you quite a bit of info for settings.


The main reason for all the settings was to have it ISFed to get a perfect picture.


Also, and talking about physical discs, there are 5 (UHDBD, BD, 2D/3D, 3D and DVD). Screw with each one, set the setting you like and then save it. Now, that physical disc will have the setting so you don't have to do it every time.


I can take it in to a service center, but it would be best if you brought in the PJ, player and discs.


If you send it in, you'll get a refurbished one in return...don't like that.


So, live with it, mark your 3Ds and life is good...and get that sucker ISFed!!!


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks. I do have a Sony UHD disc n know the secret calibration pattern in it. But is there a step by step instruction to it, since I am not sure if I did it correctly. Thanks.



Don Draper said:


> Disc calibration will not work because you are not throwing out and HDR signal when you test the levels so it will always end up too dark with HDR content
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks. I read the same info from Oledurt n that's why I am using the Bright cinema now. Did you use the Sony UHD disc secret pattern as your HDR calibration tool ? If yes, would like a step by step instruction how to use it. Thanks in advance.




HarleyRider said:


> With a 4K UHD disc, your Oppo will output the signal as BT2020. That means it's sending the wider color gamut (Rec. 2020) that's used by UHD. You will always see that when playing a UHD disc regardless of what setting you have on your Epson. Regular HD and 1080p Bluray discs use the narrower color space of Rec. 709. Not to confuse things further, but on a UHD disc, Rec. 2020 acts as a container for the DCI-P3 digital cinema color spec. Think of DCI-P3 as a subset of the much wider Rec. 2020 profile. More colors than Rec. 709, but not the full gamut of Rec. 2020. I don't believe there is any display capable of full Rec. 2020 at this time. This is where the different settings on your Epson come into play. Two of the settings - Cinema and Digital Cinema - use a P3 color filter. If you change from Bright Cinema to Digital Cinema, you can hear the filter slide into place inside the projector. Now I'll admit I don't know all the details, but I've read in Epson documentation that only Digital Cinema mode can display the entire DCI-P3 color space, but I do know that Cinema mode also uses the filter. I don't know what else is different in the processing between Digital Cinema and Cinema. Now, despite what Epson says, a guy who posts on here, Oledurt, recently had his Epson professionally calibrated and I believe his calibrator said that Bright Cinema was also capable of displaying P3 despite not using the filter, so who knows? I spent a couple hours last night trying to calibrate Digital Cinema mode using HDR test patterns and the picture is just too dark for me. This weekend I'm going to go back and recalibrate Bright Cinema using the HDR test patterns and see what happens.


----------



## ChrisRex

Just adding my name to the (thankfully rarely) list of people with the 'randomly shutting off' issue. 

The unit is shutting off at almost clock-like 22 minute intervals. Not overheating, the sleep setting is off, regardless of input, unit reset, etc. Happened with literally nothing but a basic signal the first day I got it. Thought firmware 1.09 fixed it, but apparently not.

In praise of Epson, they quickly and easily have agreed to send me a replacement which I am expecting in a day or so.



And just when i had FINALLY (and randomly) gotten my Shield to Show Netflix in 4:2:2 12 bit 24p HDR :-/


----------



## k3nnis

On another note with the Epson and shield combo, does Netflix 4k HDR look a lot better than Netflix 4k sdr?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ChrisRex

k3nnis said:


> On another note with the Epson and shield combo, does Netflix 4k HDR look a lot better than Netflix 4k sdr?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My personal experience:

Daredevil - Not great. Seems to fight with me, no matter what I try.

Samurai Gourmet - Pretty decent. Subtle, but good.

Chef's table - Unbelievably good. Stunning.


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks for the feedback. Reason I asked is if 4k Netflix sdr looks great I won't bother with Netflix 4k HDR 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ChrisRex

You know, for the amount of time it took fighting with the Shield to get it to work, I'm not sure i can say 'Oh, definitely go for it'. Not sure it's worth the headache at this very moment in technology time.

That being said... it IS pretty cool once it's working.

If it's a matter of upgrading the subscription... screw it. It's 4 bucks. Try it for one month


----------



## k3nnis

Ok. Cuz if 4k HDR Netflix looks dim may as well stay with 4k SDR netflix


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jsrdlr

Installers got my 6040UB mounted last night and the Severston screen mounted to the frame. Good chance they'll finish everything up today so I can finally see what everyone else has been enjoying!


----------



## chickenbc49

*loose HDR in netflix since 1.09*

Hi , i'am french with an epson tw9300 ( 5040ub) , and since i have updated my projector ( 1.08 --> 1.09) , i need to reboot my shield in 4K/50hz to have netflix in 4k ( but without HDR) .

If i reboot my shield in 4K/24hz , i loose my 4k hdr in netflix .

before 1.09 update , shield in 4k/24 , i had 4K hdr in neflix .

any solution ?


----------



## jsrdlr

chickenbc49 said:


> Hi , i'am french with an epson tw9300 ( 5040ub) , and since i have updated my projector ( 1.08 --> 1.09) , i need to reboot my shield in 4K/50hz to have netflix in 4k ( but without HDR) .
> 
> If i reboot my shield in 4K/24hz , i loose my 4k hdr in netflix .
> 
> before 1.09 update , shield in 4k/24 , i had 4K hdr in neflix .
> 
> any solution ?


Scroll up and back a page or three(or twenty, this thread moves along quickly) and you'll see plenty of people with similar issues. I'm not sure if any of them discovered a solution yet.


----------



## joel dickman

*5040ub first impressions*

Some background: I've been watching movies and BBC nature documentaries on Blu Ray disc for a little less than ten years, using a Marantz VP-12S4 720p projector and a Da-Lite high power 2.8 120" diagonal 4:3 screen. I do my viewing in a basement bat cave room with black walls, ceiling, and carpet. The old Marantz / Da-Lite combination has provided me with a lot of pleasure over the years, but recently I started hankering after a larger screen for Cinemascope (2.35:1 aspect ratio) movies. Older 4:3 movies looked great. More recent 16:9 material looked very good. But the Cinemascope movies felt like they were too small at about 104" diagonal.

Got lucky and found a used (but slightly beat-up) 2.8 high power screen that was 16:9 and 159" diagonal. It took a long period of searching to find this screen; used high power screens in large sizes are scarce. My Marantz projector was hopelessly unable to light up this new-to-me screen. Not enough lumens. If I tried to project an image that was much larger than 120", the picture looked dull and lifeless. I needed a new and more powerful projector to take proper advantage of my much larger screen. The best prospects seemed to be the Sony 45ES, the JVC RS400, and the Epson 5040UB. After doing a lot of internet research, and briefly seeing Sony, JVC, and Epson projectors (under terrible viewing conditions) at Abt Electronics, I decided to buy the Epson.

I unpacked my new 5040ub last night, set it on top of a rolling stand behind my viewing position, and watched the Ridley Scott science fiction / horror film *Prometheus* on 1080p Blu Ray.*WOW!* The picture was _extremely_ bright, _extremely_ sharp, and had strikingly dark blacks. This was without any calibration or adjustment of any kind, and without using the 4K enhancement feature. There are so many different possible ways to adjust and fine-tune the picture that it will take me some time to get familiar with them.

But even without any adjustment at all - beyond getting the image to fit my screen and using the focus control - _the picture looked incredible. _My old Marantz will be put out to pasture.

Just one small disappointment: I noticed that when the movie ended, and the credits began scrolling, the text of the credits seemed to jump around ever so slightly as they moved across the screen. Never saw anything like this with my Marantz DLP, where credits rolled with perfect smoothness. Perhaps this is an example of the superior motion of DLP over LCD technology? Or maybe I do not yet have my new projector set up properly. I'd appreciate any insights other people might have about this. Not a big deal in any case. I did not buy the new projector for purposes of watching movie credits.

I'm very happy with my new toy, and I look forward to watching all my old movies and seeing them in a much more vivid and fresh light. Going from a 104" scope picture to a 150" scope picture with increased brightness, sharpness, and contrast makes the money well spent.

Happy viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## KBone

joel dickman said:


> Some background: I've been watching movies and BBC nature documentaries on Blu Ray disc for a little less than ten years, using a Marantz VP-12S4 720p projector and a Da-Lite high power 2.8 120" diagonal 4:3 screen. I do my viewing in a basement bat cave room with black walls, ceiling, and carpet. The old Marantz / Da-Lite combination has provided me with a lot of pleasure over the years, but recently I started hankering after a larger screen for Cinemascope (2.35:1 aspect ratio) movies. Older 4:3 movies looked great. More recent 16:9 material looked very good. But the Cinemascope movies felt like they were too small at about 104" diagonal.
> 
> Got lucky and found a used (but slightly beat-up) 2.8 high power screen that was 16:9 and 159" diagonal. It took a long period of searching to find this screen; used high power screens in large sizes are scarce. My Marantz projector was hopelessly unable to light up this new-to-me screen. Not enough lumens. If I tried to project an image that was much larger than 120", the picture looked dull and lifeless. I needed a new and more powerful projector to take proper advantage of my much larger screen. The best prospects seemed to be the Sony 45ES, the JVC RS400, and the Epson 5040UB. After doing a lot of internet research, and briefly seeing Sony, JVC, and Epson projectors (under terrible viewing conditions) at Abt Electronics, I decided to buy the Epson.
> 
> I unpacked my new 5040ub last night, set it on top of a rolling stand behind my viewing position, and watched the Ridley Scott science fiction / horror film *Prometheus* on 1080p Blu Ray.*WOW!* The picture was _extremely_ bright, _extremely_ sharp, and had strikingly dark blacks. This was without any calibration or adjustment of any kind, and without using the 4K enhancement feature. There are so many different possible ways to adjust and fine-tune the picture that it will take me some time to get familiar with them.
> 
> But even without any adjustment at all - beyond getting the image to fit my screen and using the focus control - _the picture looked incredible. _My old Marantz will be put out to pasture.
> 
> Just one small disappointment: I noticed that when the movie ended, and the credits began scrolling, the text of the credits seemed to jump around ever so slightly as they moved across the screen. Never saw anything like this with my Marantz DLP, where credits rolled with perfect smoothness. Perhaps this is an example of the superior motion of DLP over LCD technology? Or maybe I do not yet have my new projector set up properly. I'd appreciate any insights other people might have about this. Not a big deal in any case. I did not buy the new projector for purposes of watching movie credits.
> 
> I'm very happy with my new toy, and I look forward to watching all my old movies and seeing them in a much more vivid and fresh light. Going from a 104" scope picture to a 150" scope picture with increased brightness, sharpness, and contrast makes the money well spent.
> 
> Happy viewing,
> Joel Dickman


Hey Joel... you're at a 150" screen? What is your throw distance.


----------



## joel dickman

KBone said:


> Hey Joel... you're at a 150" screen? What is your throw distance.


The screen is 159" diagonal 16:9. That makes the Cinemascope size (2.35:1 aspect ratio) a hair over 150". Not sure of my throw distance. I would guesstimate that the projector lens is around fifteen feet from the screen. The projector is on a wheeled cart, making it easy to move it closer or farther away if need be. 

Happy viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## 3DBob

Joel, I have the Highpower 159" screen as well. Are you watching 3D? How's the brightness. I would also like to know what the enhanced 4k looks like--so I will be watching for more of your experiences with on the big screen.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Demo'd my setup for the family last night. Played Planet Earth II in 4K, the first fight scene in Master and Commander to show off the 7.1 setup, Inception first scene in the rain, and some Titanfall. They were all blown away by the picture and sound quality. I totally agree on Prometheus being absolutely amazing. John Wick 4K with HDR enabled is gorgeous, and Jurassic Park blu ray is stunning as well as the 7.1 remaster makes it so much more engaging. Here is the finished setup with new paint and everything installed.


----------



## k3nnis

How big is your screen SAL?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Black Banshee

ChrisRex said:


> Just adding my name to the (thankfully rarely) list of people with the 'randomly shutting off' issue.
> 
> The unit is shutting off at almost clock-like 22 minute intervals. Not overheating, the sleep setting is off, regardless of input, unit reset, etc. Happened with literally nothing but a basic signal the first day I got it. Thought firmware 1.09 fixed it, but apparently not.
> 
> In praise of Epson, they quickly and easily have agreed to send me a replacement which I am expecting in a day or so.
> 
> 
> 
> And just when i had FINALLY (and randomly) gotten my Shield to Show Netflix in 4:2:2 12 bit 24p HDR :-/



I had this problem last week and I called Epson. It turned out my HDMI link was on and my Shield had a sleep timer set that was turning off my projector. I turned off the HDMI link on the projector and this has stopped (apologies if this may have been discussed earlier).


----------



## ChrisRex

Black Banshee said:


> I had this problem last week and I called Epson. It turned out my HDMI link was on and my Shield had a sleep timer set that was turning off my projector. I turned off the HDMI link on the projector and this has stopped (apologies if this may have been discussed earlier).


I wish that was the case  It was happening out of the box before I owned the shield, but I checked just for fun... not setup that way :-(


----------



## ht guy

ChrisRex said:


> I wish that was the case  It was happening out of the box before I owned the shield, but I checked just for fun... not setup that way :-(


I too have had the occasional shut-off issue.

Unfortunately, the three times it has happened have been about 60-75 minutes into the main feature...with company...

No lights flashing afterwards that I noticed...

Otherwise over the moon with this amazing projector.


----------



## jsrdlr

Finally got home around 9:30pm and watched some scenes from Planet Earth and GotG. Looked fabulous and we were blown away. This was with no tweaking of the PJ yet. I didn't even check what color mode it was in. This is our first PJ so I really don't have much to compare it to other than a friends house about 15 years ago. The PJ is way brighter than I expected. It can really light our 13ish by 24ish room up! Can't wait to get some movie time in!


----------



## Trigger

I got some 3D glasses and we watched a 3D movie on the Sony X800 connected directly to the Epson the other night and it was very good. When I view the Projector menu the 3d Settings is greyed out. I can't see any of the settings and I also wanted to try the 2D to 3D conversion but cannot access it. I went through the manual and it list all the setting, but does not explain what to do if it is greyed out. Anyone have any ideals on how to access the settings?

My system:
Sony X800 firmware M36.R.0111
Epson 5040UB firmware 1.09
Denon AVR 3311CI


----------



## inspector

joel dickman said:


> Some background: I've been watching movies and BBC nature documentaries on Blu Ray disc for a little less than ten years, using a Marantz VP-12S4 720p projector and a Da-Lite high power 2.8 120" diagonal 4:3 screen. I do my viewing in a basement bat cave room with black walls, ceiling, and carpet. The old Marantz / Da-Lite combination has provided me with a lot of pleasure over the years, but recently I started hankering after a larger screen for Cinemascope (2.35:1 aspect ratio) movies. Older 4:3 movies looked great. More recent 16:9 material looked very good. But the Cinemascope movies felt like they were too small at about 104" diagonal.
> 
> Got lucky and found a used (but slightly beat-up) 2.8 high power screen that was 16:9 and 159" diagonal. It took a long period of searching to find this screen; used high power screens in large sizes are scarce. My Marantz projector was hopelessly unable to light up this new-to-me screen. Not enough lumens. If I tried to project an image that was much larger than 120", the picture looked dull and lifeless. I needed a new and more powerful projector to take proper advantage of my much larger screen. The best prospects seemed to be the Sony 45ES, the JVC RS400, and the Epson 5040UB. After doing a lot of internet research, and briefly seeing Sony, JVC, and Epson projectors (under terrible viewing conditions) at Abt Electronics, I decided to buy the Epson.
> 
> I unpacked my new 5040ub last night, set it on top of a rolling stand behind my viewing position, and watched the Ridley Scott science fiction / horror film *Prometheus* on 1080p Blu Ray.*WOW!* The picture was _extremely_ bright, _extremely_ sharp, and had strikingly dark blacks. This was without any calibration or adjustment of any kind, and without using the 4K enhancement feature. There are so many different possible ways to adjust and fine-tune the picture that it will take me some time to get familiar with them.
> 
> But even without any adjustment at all - beyond getting the image to fit my screen and using the focus control - _the picture looked incredible. _My old Marantz will be put out to pasture.
> 
> Just one small disappointment: I noticed that when the movie ended, and the credits began scrolling, the text of the credits seemed to jump around ever so slightly as they moved across the screen. Never saw anything like this with my Marantz DLP, where credits rolled with perfect smoothness. Perhaps this is an example of the superior motion of DLP over LCD technology? Or maybe I do not yet have my new projector set up properly. I'd appreciate any insights other people might have about this. Not a big deal in any case. I did not buy the new projector for purposes of watching movie credits.
> 
> I'm very happy with my new toy, and I look forward to watching all my old movies and seeing them in a much more vivid and fresh light. Going from a 104" scope picture to a 150" scope picture with increased brightness, sharpness, and contrast makes the money well spent.
> 
> Happy viewing,
> Joel Dickman


That's where having it ISFed comes into play They will make it shine. Having mine done after about 100 hours on my 6040!


----------



## PeterJ101

Anyone think there will be a 5050 in Sept/Oct?


----------



## SALadder22FF

k3nnis said:


> how big is your screen sal?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iphone using tapatalk


120"


----------



## k3nnis

SALadder22FF said:


> 120"




Nice. I can only put 110" max. May even go 100". How far from projector lens to screen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ht guy

Trigger said:


> I got some 3D glasses and we watched a 3D movie on the Sony X800 connected directly to the Epson the other night and it was very good. When I view the Projector menu the 3d Settings is greyed out. I can't see any of the settings and I also wanted to try the 2D to 3D conversion but cannot access it. I went through the manual and it list all the setting, but does not explain what to do if it is greyed out. Anyone have any ideals on how to access the settings?
> 
> My system:
> Sony X800 firmware M36.R.0111
> Epson 5040UB firmware 1.09
> Denon AVR 3311CI


I had the same issue and learned that 3D will not work w/4k enhancement turned on. Try turning that off.

...tho you indicate you watched a 3D movie with the 3D settings greyed out?


----------



## aaranddeeman

PeterJ101 said:


> Anyone think there will be a 5050 in Sept/Oct?


Yes. 
- Will be true 8K
- Laser with 40K max lumens
- Both HDR10 and DV supported
- It will not need any mount. It will just hover over the head
-
-
-



You can imagine anything..


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

aaranddeeman said:


> yes.
> - will be true 8k
> - laser with 40k max lumens
> - both hdr10 and dv supported
> - it will not need any mount. It will just hover over the head


msrp $500!


----------



## Threefiddie

PeterJ101 said:


> Anyone think there will be a 5050 in Sept/Oct?


i hope... and I hope it won't be bandwidth handicapped. not buying the 5040 over a rs420 for that reason. would love to see epson be able to do it all like the competition and not half assed.


----------



## Milomaniacattack

My projector arrive today. So the 5040 still does not accept HDR from Xbox one S? What confirmed 4K players work with HDR? I tried to read through but it's way to long. Thanks


----------



## jsrdlr

Milomaniacattack said:


> My projector arrive today. So the 5040 still does not accept HDR from Xbox one S? What confirmed 4K players work with HDR? I tried to read through but it's way to long. Thanks


Looks like most have had good results with the Philips player. Also read that the Oppo is working for some as well. I have the Philips and 6040 as of yesterday but haven't had time to test it.


----------



## Milomaniacattack

jsrdlr said:


> Looks like most have had good results with the Philips player. Also read that the Oppo is working for some as well. I have the Philips and 6040 as of yesterday but haven't had time to test it.


I will pick the Phillips up today. I wonder if that new LG will work?


----------



## jsrdlr

Milomaniacattack said:


> I will pick the Phillips up today. I wonder if that new LG will work?


It's still not released yet though right? Thought I saw that it was still pre-order. It'll take one of us to try it out and find out. The Philips has received outstanding reviews though.


----------



## Mike Garrett

aaranddeeman said:


> Yes.
> - Will be true 8K
> - Laser with 40K max lumens
> - Both HDR10 and DV supported
> - It will not need any mount. It will just hover over the head
> -
> -
> -
> 
> 
> 
> You can imagine anything..


And will sell for a dollar, delivered.


----------



## Mike Garrett

flyguyjake said:


> I cannot seem to get focus razor sharp especially menus from my HTPC. Letters aren't crisp. Anyone else having this problem?


Is E-shift on?


----------



## sddp

SALadder22FF said:


> Demo'd my setup for the family last night. Played Planet Earth II in 4K, the first fight scene in Master and Commander to show off the 7.1 setup, Inception first scene in the rain, and some Titanfall. They were all blown away by the picture and sound quality. I totally agree on Prometheus being absolutely amazing. John Wick 4K with HDR enabled is gorgeous, and Jurassic Park blu ray is stunning as well as the 7.1 remaster makes it so much more engaging. Here is the finished setup with new paint and everything installed.




Does having the projector right about the seats bother you at all, as far as fan noise?


----------



## Trigger

Milomaniacattack said:


> My projector arrive today. So the 5040 still does not accept HDR from Xbox one S? What confirmed 4K players work with HDR? I tried to read through but it's way to long. Thanks


Sony UPB-X800 works great with UHD and HDR. Very fast player and also supports Netflix streaming with HDR on Epson 5040 running latest firmware 1.09.


----------



## oraclation

SDE:

I have a 111" wide 2.35 scope screen and sit 9ft from the screen and constantly notice SDE with 4k sources and 4k enhanced 1080p sources. My old Panny AE3000U has no SDE and looks reasonably sharp. The SDE is more noticeable with motion, sort of like dlp rainbow effect. It seems the panel shift frequency is not quite high enough to compensate in certain situations. It helps to disable all picture enhancements, but it's still noticeable. I am also sensitive to rainbow effect.

I really like the 5040UB overall, but the SDE is a dealbreaker. If I move my chairs back 3 ft or defocus slightly, I might be able to live with it. Thinking of trying the Sony hw45es.

I'm definitely keeping the Nvidia Shield TV...


----------



## Sundodger

Trigger said:


> Sony UPB-X800 works great with UHD and HDR. Very fast player and also supports Netflix streaming with HDR on Epson 5040 running latest firmware 1.09.


Does it stream Vudu in HDR too? 

My remodel is almost done and my 5040 is waiting to be unleashed. I have an XB1, but it sounds like they still won't play HDR discs or streaming so am looking for another player.


----------



## HarleyRider

oraclation said:


> SDE:
> 
> I have a 111" wide 2.35 scope screen and sit 9ft from the screen and constantly notice SDE with 4k sources and 4k enhanced 1080p sources. My old Panny AE3000U has no SDE and looks reasonably sharp. The SDE is more noticeable with motion, sort of like dlp rainbow effect. It seems the panel shift frequency is not quite high enough to compensate in certain situations. It helps to disable all picture enhancements, but it's still noticeable. I am also sensitive to rainbow effect.
> 
> I really like the 5040UB overall, but the SDE is a dealbreaker. If I move my chairs back 3 ft or defocus slightly, I might be able to live with it. Thinking of trying the Sony hw45es.
> 
> I'm definitely keeping the Nvidia Shield TV...


You won't have any SDE with the Sony. But you won't have faux-K or wide color gamut either. I went from a hw40es to this 5040. The pixel structure of Sony's SXRD LCoS panels is so fine, I couldn't detect anything until I was less than a foot from the screen. The SDE on the Epson was a bit of a surprise for me. I'm used to it now, don't notice it from my seating position about 10' from a 110" 16:9 screen, but if i stand up and take a step toward the screen, bam, there it is. But, if you can sit far enough back to avoid the SDE, this Epson does put out a much better picture than my 40es did.


----------



## cchrono

Epson looks way sharper than my 55es did. Sure it is just perceived sharpness but I am happier with it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## oraclation

HarleyRider said:


> You won't have any SDE with the Sony. But you won't have faux-K or wide color gamut either. I went from a hw40es to this 5040. The pixel structure of Sony's SXRD LCoS panels is so fine, I couldn't detect anything until I was less than a foot from the screen. The SDE on the Epson was a bit of a surprise for me. I'm used to it now, don't notice it from my seating position about 10' from a 110" 16:9 screen, but if i stand up and take a step toward the screen, bam, there it is. But, if you can sit far enough back to avoid the SDE, this Epson does put out a much better picture than my 40es did.


Thanks for the feedback, I think I'll try the hw45es and A-B compare to the fake 4k of the 5040UB. 

Other than SDE, I don't like the faint but weird noises coming from the projector and I was unable to adjust the faint large magenta circle in the center area of the screen using the color uniformity adjustments.


----------



## Trigger

Sundodger said:


> Does it stream Vudu in HDR too?
> 
> My remodel is almost done and my 5040 is waiting to be unleashed. I have an XB1, but it sounds like they still won't play HDR discs or streaming so am looking for another player.


I believe the only app that supports HDR is Netflix. Waiting for an update to see if there will be more apps to support HDR.


----------



## bigabit

HarleyRider said:


> You won't have any SDE with the Sony. But you won't have faux-K or wide color gamut either. I went from a hw40es to this 5040. The pixel structure of Sony's SXRD LCoS panels is so fine, I couldn't detect anything until I was less than a foot from the screen. The SDE on the Epson was a bit of a surprise for me. I'm used to it now, don't notice it from my seating position about 10' from a 110" 16:9 screen, but if i stand up and take a step toward the screen, bam, there it is. But, if you can sit far enough back to avoid the SDE, this Epson does put out a much better picture than my 40es did.


Just to echo this, I had the exact same experience going from hw40es to the 5040. Was very surprised by the noticeable SDE from 12 and sometimes 18 feey back. Swapped out my unit just to make sure it wasn't defective. Looked the same.

The Sony had no SDE whatsoever. Once you are far enough back the Epson has a superior image. But the Sony loses less light on longer throws and holds its own for the price point.

Different solutions for different setups.


----------



## jsrdlr

This is 4k with HDR on. Everything is default except a boost to gamma. The pic came out brighter than it is in person. I haven't had time to try and apply the different suggested settings yet. I'm loving it out of the box so excited to see what a little tweaking and eventually a pro calibration will do. If anyone knows a good ISF calibrator in the Orlando/Central FL area please PM me. Once I get some hours on the lamp I'll reach out to them. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Why are you guys seeing SDR effect is it your screen? My eyes are old,but my 20 yr old son can't see any SDR and he's got 20-20 vision,I had him set the focus for me.


----------



## spirithockey79

dholmes54 said:


> Why are you guys seeing SDR effect is it your screen? My eyes are old,but my 20 yr old son can't see any SDR and he's got 20-20 vision,I had him set the focus for me.




Agreed. I have a 110" 2.35 screen fully zoomed in since my Epson is mounted at the shortest throw distance (about 11'6") and I sit about 9ft from the screen and have zero SDE. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

I'm having my pj calibrated on Sunday. I've got several questions around settings for HDR based on nits, custom gamma, black crush/white clipping, using target luminance for strip metadata feature in Oppo 203, bright cinema / P3, whether HDR1 or HDR2 is the best setting, HDMI Normal/Auto vs Expanded, etc. Want to make sure I cover all the various concerns/questions that have come up on this forum. Calibrator seems very knowledgeable based on previous experience with 5010. I'll be sure to share any insights. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bigabit

dholmes54 said:


> Why are you guys seeing SDR effect is it your screen? My eyes are old,but my 20 yr old son can't see any SDR and he's got 20-20 vision,I had him set the focus for me.


The pixel fill is not great, the black lines in between are very apparent compared to sony and other projectors that use different tech.

I tested with different materials, it's always the same. Most likely we are projecting larger. My screen is over 200".


----------



## inspector

spirithockey79 said:


> I'm having my pj calibrated on Sunday. I've got several questions around settings for HDR based on nits, custom gamma, black crush/white clipping, using target luminance for strip metadata feature in Oppo 203, bright cinema / P3, whether HDR1 or HDR2 is the best setting, HDMI Normal/Auto vs Expanded, etc. Want to make sure I cover all the various concerns/questions that have come up on this forum. Calibrator seems very knowledgeable based on previous experience with 5010. I'll be sure to share any insights.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm hoping to have my 6040 ISFed next week too. I don't stream only use physical disc. Since there are 5 discs out there: 4K; BD; 3D BD; 2D/3D BD and DVD, I'm hoping my calibration takes care of at least 3 of them, 4K; BD/DVD and 2D/3D BD; 3D BD.


Please come back and show us some of the settings, I will when I get mine done.


----------



## dholmes54

bigabit said:


> The pixel fill is not great, the black lines in between are very apparent compared to sony and other projectors that use different tech.
> 
> I tested with different materials, it's always the same. Most likely we are projecting larger. My screen is over 200".


200 inches! Wow you must have a large HT, my screen is 120 in mid priced Elite screen


----------



## Gabre

200" and how far from the screen? No wonder u see sdr


----------



## Geraldius

dholmes54 said:


> Why are you guys seeing SDR effect is it your screen? My eyes are old,but my 20 yr old son can't see any SDR and he's got 20-20 vision,I had him set the focus for me.





spirithockey79 said:


> Agreed. I have a 110" 2.35 screen fully zoomed in since my Epson is mounted at the shortest throw distance (about 11'6") and I sit about 9ft from the screen and have zero SDE.


With 4K enhancement on for 1080p or off with 4K source, I can't see any SDE with my 135" Cinegrey 3D screen from 12ft. However I can barely detect a bit of it, if I look for it, when viewing pure color content, such as computer graphics, with 1080p no 4K enhancement. But even then it's virtually unnoticeable.


----------



## Don Draper

No sde here. About 9ft from 120, none with the 5010 either. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## HarleyRider

spirithockey79 said:


> I'm having my pj calibrated on Sunday. I've got several questions around settings for HDR based on nits, custom gamma, black crush/white clipping, using target luminance for strip metadata feature in Oppo 203, bright cinema / P3, whether HDR1 or HDR2 is the best setting, HDMI Normal/Auto vs Expanded, etc. Want to make sure I cover all the various concerns/questions that have come up on this forum. Calibrator seems very knowledgeable based on previous experience with 5010. I'll be sure to share any insights.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm really interested in how your calibrator goes about setting a custom gamma for HDR. I wouldn't expect you to share your settings. They wouldn't work in my situation anyway. I'm just interested in the technique he uses. I've been messing with the HDR 10-point grayscale patterns from R.Masciola and measuring using HCFR. I've not been able to set a custom gamma curve yet that doesn't look like garbage. If you happen to glean some tips and tricks from your calibrator on how Epson's custom gamma controls work and could share that, that'd be fantastic.


----------



## carlkpro

Hello I have a question about my new 5040UB. I noticed that the fan shuts off soon as power is turned off whereas my previous projectors fan will continue to run for a minute or two to cool the lamp down. Is this normal?


----------



## akgolf

The AV outfit I'm looking to do our theater room mentioned that he wouldn't go bigger than 130 inches with the 6040. 

Looking for thoughts on this and if anyone has a larger screen than this and if there are any issues?


----------



## Geraldius

carlkpro said:


> Hello I have a question about my new 5040UB. I noticed that the fan shuts off soon as power is turned off whereas my previous projectors fan will continue to run for a minute or two to cool the lamp down. Is this normal?


Yes, normal.


However if you turn it back on again immediately the fan will run at high speed for a minute or so before re-lighting the lamp.


----------



## HarleyRider

carlkpro said:


> Hello I have a question about my new 5040UB. I noticed that the fan shuts off soon as power is turned off whereas my previous projectors fan will continue to run for a minute or two to cool the lamp down. Is this normal?


Yup, that's normal. Mine does the same thing.


----------



## carlkpro

Geraldius said:


> Yes, normal.
> 
> 
> However if you turn it back on again immediately the fan will run at high speed for a minute or so before re-lighting the lamp.


Thanks. Learn something new everyday. So is this the Epson thing or newer lamps are different? I always thought interrupting the fan from cooling down the lamp is the biggest crime you could commit on the lamp.


----------



## Don Draper

carlkpro said:


> Thanks. Learn something new everyday. So is this the Epson thing or newer lamps are different? I always thought interrupting the fan from cooling down the lamp is the biggest crime you could commit on the lamp.


Its a little wonkey if you ask me. My fan starts high regardless of how long it's been off. Thats pretty backwards, I would be interested to hear the explanation if it is intentional. Makes no sense to me as it stands. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

HarleyRider said:


> I'm really interested in how your calibrator goes about setting a custom gamma for HDR. I wouldn't expect you to share your settings. They wouldn't work in my situation anyway. I'm just interested in the technique he uses. I've been messing with the HDR 10-point grayscale patterns from R.Masciola and measuring using HCFR. I've not been able to set a custom gamma curve yet that doesn't look like garbage. If you happen to glean some tips and tricks from your calibrator on how Epson's custom gamma controls work and could share that, that'd be fantastic.




I'll certainly take some notes and share any concepts or light bulb moments on this forum.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rjguk

carlkpro said:


> Hello I have a question about my new 5040UB. I noticed that the fan shuts off soon as power is turned off whereas my previous projectors fan will continue to run for a minute or two to cool the lamp down. Is this normal?


Perfectly normal, although it does seem odd at first.


----------



## MississippiMan

akgolf said:


> The AV outfit I'm looking to do our theater room mentioned that he wouldn't go bigger than 130 inches with the 6040.
> 
> Looking for thoughts on this and if anyone has a larger screen than this and if there are any issues?


Whhaaaaat? 

Well lemmie'see here...............how about this'n?











This is the Theater's Floor Plan










And this is the resulting Screen w/5040ub










The image up is even larger than the diagram called for. Almost 180" diagonal @ 16:9

Here are some 2.39:1 images at 167" diagonal:

























































This Screen used was at very most a 1.0 Gain "Painted Wall" ...a "very" dark Gray w/Metallic Content.




















........and considerably bigger than 130" diagonal, so don't 'Who Dat' tell you that you cannot go bigger! He don't know Nuthin' fum nutten. 

I've never painted a Screen in Alaska.....


----------



## Valleyboy

Need some advice. For standard Blu Rays do you set your Phillips to output at 1080p or 4K up conversion? And then on the projector do you let the 4K enhancer do the work for the 1080p or do you "double" enhance it by having the 4K projector enhance an already enhanced picture? Does any of that make sense? I don't think I've typed the word "enhance" so much in my life.


----------



## schmidtwi

MississippiMan said:


> Whhaaaaat?
> 
> Well lemmie'see here...............how about this'n?
> 
> 
> Here are some 2.39:1 images at 167" diagonal:


 

MM - is the 5040 max zoom at 17'6" to hit 167" diagonal? Looks pretty awesome to me. I plan to hit 161" diagonal at 16'9"


----------



## Craig Peer

MississippiMan said:


> Whhaaaaat?
> 
> Well lemmie'see here...............how about this'n?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the Theater's Floor Plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the resulting Screen w/5040ub
> 
> 
> This Screen used was at very most a 1.0 Gain "Painted Wall" ...a "very" dark Gray w/Metallic Content.
> 
> 
> ........and considerably bigger than 130" diagonal, so don't 'Who Dat' tell you that you cannot go bigger! He don't know Nuthin' fum nutten.
> 
> I've never painted a Screen in Alaska.....


A 165" diagonal / 144"wide 16:9 screen, with a gain of one ( unity gain ), would not even muster barely over 12 foot lamberts using the " Bright Cinema " mode in medium power, with Blu Ray. http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-projector-calibration-settings/

Not very bright, and that's with a new lamp. Going to be mighty dim mighty fast. Unless you just watch on Dynamic mode. So it depends on how bright a picture you like. I prefer my 1.1 gain 122" diagonal 16:9 Stewart Cima Neve - I just sit closer. And, I can get a much brighter picture.


----------



## FrankTR

Anyone experience your projector powering off about 5 to 10 minutes into a movie for maybe 1 minute and power back up?


----------



## Craig Peer

schmidtwi said:


> MM - is the 5040 max zoom at 17'6" to hit 167" diagonal? Looks pretty awesome to me. I plan to hit 161" diagonal at 16'9"


I hope you don't plan on watching 4K with HDR - you'll never be able to do it on that size screen. not with this projector. Just FYI.


----------



## inspector

spirithockey79 said:


> Agreed. I have a 110" 2.35 screen fully zoomed in since my Epson is mounted at the shortest throw distance (about 11'6") and I sit about 9ft from the screen and have zero SDE.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I sit 12' from my 110". I think maybe you're to close.


----------



## spirithockey79

inspector said:


> I sit 12' from my 110". I think maybe you're to close.




Why do you think that? I don't have any issues. Do you have a scope screen? Sitting closer gives you a more immersive experience. I used to sit 11-12ft away but prefer a bit closer now.


----------



## inspector

spirithockey79 said:


> Why do you think that? I don't have any issues. Do you have a scope screen? Sitting closer gives you a more immersive experience. I used to sit 11-12ft away but prefer a bit closer now.


Well, if you go the sites that do the viewing calculations, you'll see that 12' is about where you should be sitting from a 110" screen. That is the distance that my HT builderss put my seats. At that time, they were the best installers of HTers in So Cal. I also sit 8' from my 65 incher in the den...according to the same calculations.


But then, whatever you choose, I'm sure will suit you.


I'm happy at my distance.


----------



## SALadder22FF

sddp said:


> Does having the projector right about the seats bother you at all, as far as fan noise?


Not in the least. The seats recline back and the projector is far enough that you cannot see it. When I'm watching movies I usually crank them up pretty loud. I have a 7.1 surround sound system installed with Klipsch floorstanding, center and 2 surround and 2 rear surrounds. They absolutely make every movie 100% better. The only time I can hear the fan working is when it's starting up or when I'm switching between color modes very quickly. Can't stress how much the surround sound adds to all movies and even just watching DirecTV.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Anybody have info on professional calibrators in South Texas?


----------



## SALadder22FF

k3nnis said:


> Nice. I can only put 110" max. May even go 100". How far from projector lens to screen?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


17' I believe. The projector is plenty plenty bright.


----------



## HarleyRider

Don Draper said:


> Its a little wonkey if you ask me. My fan starts high regardless of how long it's been off. Thats pretty backwards, I would be interested to hear the explanation if it is intentional. Makes no sense to me as it stands.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


My non-professional opinion is that it's to blow the dust blobs away...


----------



## k3nnis

SALadder22FF said:


> 17' I believe. The projector is plenty plenty bright.




Ok thanks 

I will be around 11.5' from lens to screen. Going to be super bright!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

Hi guys, how much horizontal lens shift can I use if I want to use quite a bit of vertical lens shift? I don't think I can place my projector dead centre. Do you guys place it dead centre?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HarleyRider

k3nnis said:


> Hi guys, how much horizontal lens shift can I use if I want to use quite a bit of vertical lens shift? I don't think I can place my projector dead centre. Do you guys place it dead centre?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


+/-96% vertical and +/-47% horizontal. So you can be quite a bit off center and still be able to center the image.


----------



## k3nnis

HarleyRider said:


> +/-96% vertical and +/-47% horizontal. So you can be quite a bit off center and still be able to center the image.




Thanks I won't lose any quality right? Also I heard if I use like max vertical shift I can't use much of horizontal shift? Is this true?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## HarleyRider

k3nnis said:


> Thanks I won't lose any quality right? Also I heard if I use like max vertical shift I can't use much of horizontal shift? Is this true?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


With optical lens shift you should not notice any quality loss.

I haven't used used both vertical and horizontal at the extremes, but I've had mine about 3' left of center and just below the top of the screen and I had no issues centering.


----------



## schmidtwi

Craig Peer said:


> I hope you don't plan on watching 4K with HDR - you'll never be able to do it on that size screen. not with this projector. Just FYI.




I hope you don't plan on telling me what I can or can't watch or what I'm able to do with my size screen or my projector. Just FYI... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

Hi Guys,
Does anyone have a recommendation on how often you should clean / change the dust filter in the Epson? The manual is not clear on this.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## aaranddeeman

Valleyboy said:


> Need some advice. For standard Blu Rays do you set your Phillips to output at 1080p or 4K up conversion? And then on the projector do you let the 4K enhancer do the work for the 1080p or do you "double" enhance it by having the 4K projector enhance an already enhanced picture? Does any of that make sense? I don't think I've typed the word "enhance" so much in my life.


If Philips had source/native setting, I would do that. Unfortunately it doesn't.
Philips is left at 4K. So Epson is always receiving 4K, no matter what disk plays.
And there is no double enhancing. Epson treats everything as 4k in this case.


----------



## DavidK442

Craig Peer said:


> I hope you don't plan on watching 4K with HDR - you'll never be able to do it on that size screen. not with this projector. Just FYI.





schmidtwi said:


> I hope you don't plan on telling me what I can or can't watch or what I'm able to do with my size screen or my projector. Just FYI...


Way to stand up for your human rights dude!
Don't let The Man tell you what to do.


----------



## ChrisRex

FrankTR said:


> Anyone experience your projector powering off about 5 to 10 minutes into a movie for maybe 1 minute and power back up?


I had a similar issue with random shutdowns after 20-25 minutes. let it go the first few times. Finally wrote to Epson after I tried going direct to the projector, updating the firmware, etc. They very quickly arranged to send a replacement.


----------



## schmidtwi

DavidK442 said:


> Way to stand up for your human rights dude!
> Don't let The Man tell you what to do.


 

Thanks David. 






Craig Peer said:


> I'm not using an Epson - I have a JVC RS600...
> 
> Just FYI.


 
Craig is trolling. Take his not-so-humble-opinions with a grain of salt. 


Just FYI... 




:-/


----------



## jaychatbonneau

dvdwilly3 said:


> From the Epson 6040UB brochure...
> 
> "2 Color brightness (color light output) and white brightness (white light output) will vary depending on usage conditions. Color light output measured in accordance with IDMS 15.4; white light output measured in accordance with ISO 21118. *3 Entire DCI color space can be displayed in Digital Cinema Mode only.* 4 For convenient and reasonable recycling options, visit www.epson.com/recycle 5 SmartWay is an innovative partnership of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency that reduces greenhouse gases and other air pollutants and improves fuel efficiency."
> 
> I thought that I had read in one of the reviews that DCI P3 was in Digital Cinema only...


Does using the Cinema Mode always engage the P3 filter or is their an option not to engage it?


----------



## ayrton

*Multiple 2D images when playing Blu Ray 3D??*

Hi all. Just finished reading all 225/226 pages. Thanks for all the info.

Own a 5040 UBe which is doing very well.. Love it!

When playing a 3D Blu Ray with my Oppo 93, I get multiple 2d images on my screen. One time after power cycling my UBe and wifi xmittr I got a 3d image.. The oppo worked fine with my Panny Plasma.. Audio thru AVR/Video direct from 93 to WiFi Xmittr.

TIA..

Thanks to Craig Peer for helping me get the "Show" on the road..

BTW: a 203 is on the way...


----------



## Valleyboy

aaranddeeman said:


> If Philips had source/native setting, I would do that. Unfortunately it doesn't.
> Philips is left at 4K. So Epson is always receiving 4K, no matter what disk plays.
> And there is no double enhancing. Epson treats everything as 4k in this case.


But it has a resolution option. I have it set to 1080p at the moment, but it does have different 4K options as well.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Valleyboy said:


> But it has a resolution option. I have it set to 1080p at the moment, but it does have different 4K options as well.


Yes. I forgot to mention that. If you can manually manage it, then that is the only option.


----------



## Valleyboy

aaranddeeman said:


> Yes. I forgot to mention that. If you can manually manage it, then that is the only option.


Thanks, I appreciate it.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Valleyboy said:


> Thanks, I appreciate it.


It's a PITA though.
I would love to see the "source" setting in the player, where player honors the source and does not do anything to the output.


----------



## cchrono

Just did a calibration using my i1 display pro and calman software. I'm pretty happy with the picture. I am using a black diamond screen and this is my dark room calibration. Just figured I would share my settings.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## BRADH

Ok I have had my 6040 about 2 months. I am really enjoying it. The only thing that has me concerned is a change in pitch or a louder whine when 4K enhancement is turned with 60hz 1080p. With 24hz it's not a problem. It's only noticeable durning quiet passages or with the volume really low. Is this normal. 
Thanks in advance. 

Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## k3nnis

What content has 60Hz 1080P? Is that Netflix ? Apple TV?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BRADH

k3nnis said:


> What content has 60Hz 1080P? Is that Netflix ? Apple TV?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Yes Netflix Apple TV. I forgot to mention same with cable 1080i scaled to 1080p from my Denon AVP. 

Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## k3nnis

BRADH said:


> Yes Netflix Apple TV. I forgot to mention same with cable 1080i scaled to 1080p from my Denon AVP.
> 
> Brad
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




Ok thanks. How loud is the sound?

Also if using nvidia shield is Netflix in 24p? Or also in 60Hz?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BRADH

I do use my Samsung 8500 UHD player and it does send 24p with HDR and 4K. I don't have an nvidia. 

It's not really loud just a change in pitch. I held my IPhone a few inches from the front of the projector with the SLP meter app and it read 54db. With 24p or 60p it didn't change peak SLP on the meter from one to the other. I am guessing this normal. It's not loud and it really doesn't bother me. It just sound different. My Samsung SPA900 projector which was a single chip DLP was louder at 60p than at 24p. 

I would like to know if other have noticed the same thing. Again the volume has to be really low. If turned all the way down and switch back and forth between the two it's noticeable. 

Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Prisonmike

cchrono said:


> Just did a calibration using my i1 display pro and calman software. I'm pretty happy with the picture. I am using a black diamond screen and this is my dark room calibration. Just figured I would share my settings.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Sorry for the newbie question but are your calibrated settings in a similiar environment typically a good place to start? My 5040ub should be arriving today.


----------



## APHD

*Should I wait for true 4k for under 3K*

I currently own the Sony HW55ES and could not be happier, but I try to keep up with the best bang for the buck that my budget allows. I searched and could only find one previous Sony HW50ES owner on this thread that thought the 5040 was an upgrade , I know it has more features but Im talking about image quality and calibrated brightness. 
I stopped in to my local Best Buy which had a 5040 playing a 4k movie. It looked really good, but I did not leave thinking to my self I have to get one. Now the lights were only dimmed not completely off but the image did not look any different than the Sony HW55 in brightness or detail to my eyes. Has anyone displayed them side by side or even made the switch from the HW55 to the 5040 and noticed a huge difference displaying the same source material?
Sorry to be take so long to get to the point but should I wait for true 4k projector at this price point or is it that much better and should get it now, especially while its 500.00 off?


----------



## cchrono

Prisonmike said:


> Sorry for the newbie question but are your calibrated settings in a similiar environment typically a good place to start? My 5040ub should be arriving today.




Might be if you have a black diamond screen they tend to lean towards blue. Mine is a living room but I am able to control the light pretty well but it's. Not a batcave. I have yet to calibrate for lights on bright room yet


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Prisonmike

cchrono said:


> Might be if you have a black diamond screen they tend to lean towards blue. Mine is a living room but I am able to control the light pretty well but it's. Not a batcave. I have yet to calibrate for lights on bright room yet
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I'm still trying to decide on a screen so I'll keep that in mind. I've gone between trying to get a higher priced one used or making one myself. Investing in a great screen is logical but hard to do when I don't even know if I'll have the eye to tell the difference. 

I should probably find stores to check this out but I'm thinking the environment along with the screens they higher priced screens they would have wouldn't tell me if getting something from Carl's would make a difference. Ugh...I'm afraid I need to spend even more time reading the screen threads.


----------



## cchrono

Prisonmike said:


> I'm still trying to decide on a screen so I'll keep that in mind. I've gone between trying to get a higher priced one used or making one myself. Investing in a great screen is logical but hard to do when I don't even know if I'll have the eye to tell the difference.
> 
> 
> 
> I should probably find stores to check this out but I'm thinking the environment along with the screens they higher priced screens they would have wouldn't tell me if getting something from Carl's would make a difference. Ugh...I'm afraid I need to spend even more time reading the screen threads.




I will tell you that I recently got the sample pack from both Carl's and elite. They are not far off from the black diamond, not quite as nice but the black diamond prob isn't worth the price difference either. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Blue Bull

Greetings Cats and Kittens,

I was enjoying my HT system and around hour 5 it turned off. Now I disabled the sleep timer mode but is there something I'm missing?

Also how do I change the aspect ratio? I can't quite seem to find it in the manual. Thanks.


----------



## Prisonmike

cchrono said:


> I will tell you that I recently got the sample pack from both Carl's and elite. They are not far off from the black diamond, not quite as nice but the black diamond prob isn't worth the price difference either.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I've seen the Carl's sample pack before and should have thought about that. I'll order one of those tonight but I go to the elite and there is a million choices. I don't think I need to order 150 different samples so do you have any recommendations that I should try? It sounds like I have a similar setup to you. I'll have the 5040ub in a basement that does have a sliding glass door and small window that are about 30-35ft away on the opposite wall of where the screen will be and I have blackout curtains and a blackout cell blind for those. 

Basically, I can get close to pitch black (for movie time) in the middle of the day if I need to but there will be times that more light will be present for everyday type of use.


----------



## cchrono

Prisonmike said:


> I've seen the Carl's sample pack before and should have thought about that. I'll order one of those tonight but I go to the elite and there is a million choices. I don't think I need to order 150 different samples so do you have any recommendations that I should try? It sounds like I have a similar setup to you. I'll have the 5040ub in a basement that does have a sliding glass door and small window that are about 30-35ft away on the opposite wall of where the screen will be and I have blackout curtains and a blackout cell blind for those.
> 
> 
> 
> Basically, I can get close to pitch black (for movie time) in the middle of the day if I need to but there will be times that more light will be present for everyday type of use.




I ordered the cinegray, cinegray 3D and cinegray 5d


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## airbag41

*Quick question on wireless UBE*

I have my 5040 UBE running with no problems and the wireless connection shows 100% on the screen when I check it. However I occasionally notice little blips, like lines in the screen. It is not the whole image, just lines of different sizes. I was wondering if this is a wireless issue? Also do you need to / can you, update the wireless firmware? My projector is running the latest 1.09.

Thanks


----------



## Prisonmike

I have what I believe is an easy question and to get ahead of any comments, I have read a great amount of this thread, the HD Fury linker thread and tried to google the answer but due to what is probably my ignorance on terms and projectors, I'm clueless.

I just got a 5040ub and I will be using a PS4 Pro and I've seen a lot of talk of using an HD Fury and I kind of understand some of the real basics of it. Like I get that it strips some data to make it look like an excepted signal (4K 4:2:2 @ 24hz or something like that) but I am totally lost on why or even if this helps with the PQ? Does the use and setup change per source such as games that do 4k @60fps w/hdr because it can't happen due to limits of the projector and then do you have to change it for the next game that is 1080p 30fps with or without HDR? Should it be placed right before the projector and left on a single setting? Are these questions personal preference or is it a bit of an upgrade?

I may be too lost and read to much with out the practical hands on of all of this for this to be explained but if someone wants to take a crack at it to help me decide if this HD Fury linker is a must have or should have thing, that would be awesome.

It is of note that going through this thread I've seen variants of this question a few times and each have gone without answer....might be to low level of a question surrounded by high level discussion (for the most part).


----------



## spirithockey79

cchrono said:


> Just did a calibration using my i1 display pro and calman software. I'm pretty happy with the picture. I am using a black diamond screen and this is my dark room calibration. Just figured I would share my settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




Is that calibration just for HD Rec709, or is for HDR bt2020?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cchrono

spirithockey79 said:


> Is that calibration just for HD Rec709, or is for HDR bt2020?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Just 709 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Threefiddie

APHD said:


> I currently own the Sony HW55ES and could not be happier, but I try to keep up with the best bang for the buck that my budget allows. I searched and could only find one previous Sony HW50ES owner on this thread that thought the 5040 was an upgrade , I know it has more features but Im talking about image quality and calibrated brightness.
> I stopped in to my local Best Buy which had a 5040 playing a 4k movie. It looked really good, but I did not leave thinking to my self I have to get one. Now the lights were only dimmed not completely off but the image did not look any different than the Sony HW55 in brightness or detail to my eyes. Has anyone displayed them side by side or even made the switch from the HW55 to the 5040 and noticed a huge difference displaying the same source material?
> Sorry to be take so long to get to the point but should I wait for true 4k projector at this price point or is it that much better and should get it now, especially while its 500.00 off?


I have the 50es. If it helps, I'm not getting the 5040 because it's handicapped by hdmi bandwidth and not at all worth it over currently what I have when 5040 can't take 4K sources from a lot of devices or do 4K hdr from consoles or so 4:4:4 4K from pc because of limited hdmi chip. Looking at jvc rs420 because it can or waiting for true 4K


----------



## dholmes54

I had my Yamaha 2050 avr set wrong so after fixing that the signal my Epson is showing 12 bit 442 BT 2020 I use SDR I don't like none of the HDR s,have I set everything correct? The pq is great,I have a Philips uhd player and set it to 24fps also has anybody had trouble installing that cable clip to hold the HDMI cable securely?


----------



## llooping

Hi Guys,

I don't know from when but I have a new video option on my Xbox One S.

Now, in advanced parameters of the video, I have the choice to set YCC 4.2.2.

I will try some tests on my combo X1S with the projector, maybe the end of this problem 

CY


----------



## Craig Peer

DavidK442 said:


> Way to stand up for your human rights dude!
> Don't let The Man tell you what to do.


Ha - I'm just pointing out that if you go really big on your screen, it might not be as bright as you expect - which could be important to some. Others, not so much. Just be aware of the compromises. But, ultimately we all build our theater the way we want. That's the fun of this hobby. Back to your regular program. Don't forget that the 5040UB and UBe sale ends after April 1st !


----------



## tractng

Has anybody use this projector on a 2:35 format (if so what size screen)?


----------



## spirithockey79

tractng said:


> Has anybody use this projector on a 2:35 format (if so what size screen)?




Yes, I have a 110" 2.35 screen. Epson is mounted at just about the shortest throw possible for this size screen (11'6"). Picture is awesome and love the lens memory settings for zoom/focus/shift. Switches between 1.78, 1.85, 2.35, 2.39, 2.40, etc without issue. Also enjoy the blanking feature which is helpful for movies with changing aspect ratios like TDK and Star Trek Into Darkness. Just wish Epson would allow you to save those settings to memory.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

cchrono said:


> Just 709
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




Would love to hear your experience with calibrating HDR, if you're able to try it. Had a calibration yesterday and pretty disappointed with the calibrators lack of knowledge around HDR, or more importantly the ins and outs of the 5040 to be able to make HDR "passable". I'll provide more detail in a bit but have to switch to my laptop as it's too much to type on an iPad! Anyway, I've got a pretty good HD Rec 709 calibration, and possibly a good "strip HDR" calibration. But HDR was a mess.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

So, I just had my 5040 calibrated yesterday. I'll start off by saying that the guy who did my calibration did a previous calibration for me (Samsung plasma tv and Epson 5010) and he was patient (as I asked quite a bit of questions) and seemed very knowledgable about the industry, etc. This was before HDR was really a thing. Also, we had some email back and forth prior to the calibration as I wanted to make sure he understood my concerns around HDR, his familiarity with the pj, etc. He indicated he had recently done a 6040 cal, but he also did warn me about the pains of HDR, bt2020, etc. Out of respect I won't provide all of the calibration settings, but will provide some detail on what seems to be some key settings people tend to ask about.

I also have an Oppo 203 with strip HDR function (although it's still in beta), which was my source for checking calibrations.

He started with a Rec 709 calibration using Calman. He indicated that HDMI Expanded should be used, not normal (and Superwhite should be OFF). He also said that using a P3 mode to calibrate Rec 709 (Cinema or Dig Cinema) would not make sense and would cause issues because a Rec 709 source would not be using the entire color gamut. So he used the Natural mode. Calibration went pretty effortlessly. With the manual iris setting however I didn't really get the sense that there was a "correct" option for my viewing environment, lumen output, etc --- or at least he didn't really mention it. He just picked -14 and calibrated based on that. He also moved gamma down to -1. Picture looks very good, a bit more natural (no pun intended) with skintones and colors not too saturated, although I kind of miss my old setting where apparently the colors were way out of whack!! 

After Rec 709 I explained that I wanted a mode that would keep bt2020 but with SDR. This is where the Oppo feature comes in. I was explaining that I thought it made sense to calibrate from a Cinema or Digital Cinema pic mode since they do P3. But he was trying to do it from Natural. He didn't seem to be understanding my question/point though, and maybe it's because he's actually right and I was off-base (so maybe I wasn't understanding his) but his assertion was that no display device can do bt2020 to trying to calibrate a mode that will allow for this won't work or make sense. After a few back and forths he agreed to try calibrating from digital cinema, but then he kept sending a Rec 709 signal to Calman. I was trying to find a nice way to ask questions without annoying him, if simply to get him to understand that sending a Rec 709 signal for a P3 picture mode didn't seem to make sense. He seemed to agree and switched to sending a bt2020 signal on Digital Cinema. After that, the calibration seemed to go a bit smoother but took awhile. He did indeed confirm the Digital Cinema mode was covering 95%+ of P3 and was able to get the grayscale pretty dialed in. But he did say this was really just a shot in the dark and couldn't guarantee that a SDR signal with bt2020 would actually look like it should in this mode. Nothing else changed on the settings other than how he dialed in gamma, grayscale, etc.

Lastly, we tried HDR. This is where most of my frustration came from as we were already 3.5 hrs into the calibration. I told him what I had been reading on this forum about some people getting an acceptable calibration for a P3 mode, some with Natural, some with Bright Cinema (even the recent claim that Bright Cinema could do close to P3). He was able to send an HDR bt2020 signal to Calman. We started with Bright Cinema. With that mode, manual iris at 0, and gamma at 2, HDR on Auto (Bright) the foot lamberts were around 9. Now I have a very small room, with black walls/ceilings. My throw distance is only 11'6" to a 110" 2.35 screen. When I look at the calculators it says I should be getting 40-50fl. On the SDR calibration I was getting about 20fl and we dialed it down to about 12fl. Getting only 9fl was a bit surprising. He ended up increasing contract all the way to 100 (to increase the brightness). With grayscale it seemed like he was pretty much changing all of the colors to increase brightness or saturation to 100 to try and get more brightness out of each color. While it seemed on Calman the grayscale came out somewhat OKAY, the actual picture when trying an HDR movie was pretty bad. We then tried Dig Cinema, which had the colors a bit more closer to P3, but again had to increase saturation/brightness a lot and increased contract to 100. He even said he wasn't sure what the result would be. I mentioned that others on here have claimed being able to get some decent results with a custom gamma curve and his response was that he hasn't really figured out how to use that effectively. So not custom gamma curve. That was really disappointing. 

We tried The Shallows 4k HDR and both Bright Cinema and Dig Cinema for HDR was disappointing. A lot of whites overblown and colors didn't look very good. So that was the end of the calibration. Very good SDR, okay SDR bt2020 (I think), and really nothing on HDR (in fact my own tweaking had a better picture than either of these 2 modes). So perhaps I got a calibrator that didn't really know enough about HDR and/or the 5040, or perhaps he's spot on and HDR is too much of a mess to get a good calibration. I'm just a little upset that I paid $320 for it. I probably should have waited until I could find a calibrator that had more experience with HDR and the 5040 itself. But the fact that he has done some HDR and has the equipment for it alleviated some of my concern.

Please don't take this as bashing the calibrator, I know it's can be a difficult job with many variables to consider. I don't have any experience in calibration other than using a disc like DVE or S&M, so I am certainly not trying to say that this calibrator didn't know what he was doing with HDR (and he did warn me ahead of time). But I like to think I've learned at least a little bit from this forum to ask somewhat educated questions (which have probably given me a false sense of expectation as well). I guess i was just hoping for something better, especially after reading some of the posts on this forum. I'd be interested in any feedback.


----------



## WynsWrld98

spirithockey79 said:


> So, I just had my 5040 calibrated yesterday. I'll start off by saying that the guy who did my calibration did a previous calibration for me (Samsung plasma tv and Epson 5010) and he was patient (as I asked quite a bit of questions) and seemed very knowledgable about the industry, etc. This was before HDR was really a thing. Also, we had some email back and forth prior to the calibration as I wanted to make sure he understood my concerns around HDR, his familiarity with the pj, etc. He indicated he had recently done a 6040 cal, but he also did warn me about the pains of HDR, bt2020, etc. Out of respect I won't provide all of the calibration settings, but will provide some detail on what seems to be some key settings people tend to ask about.
> 
> I also have an Oppo 203 with strip HDR function (although it's still in beta), which was my source for checking calibrations.
> 
> He started with a Rec 709 calibration using Calman. He indicated that HDMI Expanded should be used, not normal (and Superwhite should be OFF). He also said that using a P3 mode to calibrate Rec 709 (Cinema or Dig Cinema) would not make sense and would cause issues because a Rec 709 source would not be using the entire color gamut. So he used the Natural mode. Calibration went pretty effortlessly. With the manual iris setting however I didn't really get the sense that there was a "correct" option for my viewing environment, lumen output, etc --- or at least he didn't really mention it. He just picked -14 and calibrated based on that. He also moved gamma down to -1. Picture looks very good, a bit more natural (no pun intended) with skintones and colors not too saturated, although I kind of miss my old setting where apparently the colors were way out of whack!!
> 
> After Rec 709 I explained that I wanted a mode that would keep bt2020 but with SDR. This is where the Oppo feature comes in. I was explaining that I thought it made sense to calibrate from a Cinema or Digital Cinema pic mode since they do P3. But he was trying to do it from Natural. He didn't seem to be understanding my question/point though, and maybe it's because he's actually right and I was off-base (so maybe I wasn't understanding his) but his assertion was that no display device can do bt2020 to trying to calibrate a mode that will allow for this won't work or make sense. After a few back and forths he agreed to try calibrating from digital cinema, but then he kept sending a Rec 709 signal to Calman. I was trying to find a nice way to ask questions without annoying him, if simply to get him to understand that sending a Rec 709 signal for a P3 picture mode didn't seem to make sense. He seemed to agree and switched to sending a bt2020 signal on Digital Cinema. After that, the calibration seemed to go a bit smoother but took awhile. He did indeed confirm the Digital Cinema mode was covering 95%+ of P3 and was able to get the grayscale pretty dialed in. But he did say this was really just a shot in the dark and couldn't guarantee that a SDR signal with bt2020 would actually look like it should in this mode. Nothing else changed on the settings other than how he dialed in gamma, grayscale, etc.
> 
> Lastly, we tried HDR. This is where most of my frustration came from as we were already 3.5 hrs into the calibration. I told him what I had been reading on this forum about some people getting an acceptable calibration for a P3 mode, some with Natural, some with Bright Cinema (even the recent claim that Bright Cinema could do close to P3). He was able to send an HDR bt2020 signal to Calman. We started with Bright Cinema. With that mode, manual iris at 0, and gamma at 2, HDR on Auto (Bright) the foot lamberts were around 9. Now I have a very small room, with black walls/ceilings. My throw distance is only 11'6" to a 110" 2.35 screen. When I look at the calculators it says I should be getting 40-50fl. On the SDR calibration I was getting about 20fl and we dialed it down to about 12fl. Getting only 9fl was a bit surprising. He ended up increasing contract all the way to 100 (to increase the brightness). With grayscale it seemed like he was pretty much changing all of the colors to increase brightness or saturation to 100 to try and get more brightness out of each color. While it seemed on Calman the grayscale came out somewhat OKAY, the actual picture when trying an HDR movie was pretty bad. We then tried Dig Cinema, which had the colors a bit more closer to P3, but again had to increase saturation/brightness a lot and increased contract to 100. He even said he wasn't sure what the result would be. I mentioned that others on here have claimed being able to get some decent results with a custom gamma curve and his response was that he hasn't really figured out how to use that effectively. So not custom gamma curve. That was really disappointing.
> 
> We tried The Shallows 4k HDR and both Bright Cinema and Dig Cinema for HDR was disappointing. A lot of whites overblown and colors didn't look very good. So that was the end of the calibration. Very good SDR, okay SDR bt2020 (I think), and really nothing on HDR (in fact my own tweaking had a better picture than either of these 2 modes). So perhaps I got a calibrator that didn't really know enough about HDR and/or the 5040, or perhaps he's spot on and HDR is too much of a mess to get a good calibration. I'm just a little upset that I paid $320 for it. I probably should have waited until I could find a calibrator that had more experience with HDR and the 5040 itself. But the fact that he has done some HDR and has the equipment for it alleviated some of my concern.
> 
> Please don't take this as bashing the calibrator, I know it's can be a difficult job with many variables to consider. I don't have any experience in calibration other than using a disc like DVE or S&M, so I am certainly not trying to say that this calibrator didn't know what he was doing with HDR (and he did warn me ahead of time). But I like to think I've learned at least a little bit from this forum to ask somewhat educated questions (which have probably given me a false sense of expectation as well). I guess i was just hoping for something better, especially after reading some of the posts on this forum. I'd be interested in any feedback.


Very good post, thanks for taking the time to type it up. It really gives insight into how complicated it is to get good HDR on a front projector with the current state of affairs. It seems like it's going to be a tough road ahead because even if projectors come out with vastly increased lumens (somehow) it seems blacks are going to be a problem. Then people will comment that some HDR titles look good (or perhaps some SCENES with an HDR title look good) while other HDR scenes or titles don't look good. Is it really realistic to tweak a projector settings on a title by title or scene by scene basis? It just sounds like a pain to me and I'm guessing this is why some people go with SDR and the wide color gamut. Just not sure what the future holds with HDR and front projection... I'm also not sure if Dolby Vision may be something that will work better with front projection.


----------



## inspector

Having mine ISFed next week by a gentleman that was trained by Epson to calibrate...went to Japan for this.


Can't wait to get my settings down for the different type of discs I watch (4K, BD, 3D BD, 2D3D BD, SD.)


----------



## spirithockey79

inspector said:


> Having mine ISFed next week by a gentleman that was trained by Epson to calibrate...went to Japan for this.
> 
> 
> Can't wait to get my settings down for the different type of discs I watch (4K, BD, 3D BD, 2D3D BD, SD.)




This will certainly be interesting to hear about. Please share as much detail as you can about findings related to HDR calibration.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

spirithockey79 said:


> This will certainly be interesting to hear about. Please share as much detail as you can about findings related to HDR calibration.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I might have a problem with that. My original cable run from PJ to my Onkyo 608 was HDMI 1.4. I have no idea how it was attached in the attic, so that's why I kept it. I'm using the same HDMI but reconnected it to the Sammy K8500, with an HDMI 1.4 to the Onkyo.


I still get 4K and 7.2 audio but not HDR, from what I understand. 


My calibrator should tell all about that when I see him. 


I only have only one UHDBD (Passengers) but twenty five 3D BDs (no streaming, only physical disc) so it might not be worth the hassle to rerun new HDMI...at least cost is not a factor.


I have a very large disc collection, over 2500 and from what I saw of PASSENGERS, I wasn't impressed, but my BDs look fantastic!


Maybe not having HDR is maybe okay. I'm not paying the extra money for the 4ks, but I did do it for PASSENGERS to get the 3D.


What I might do is run a new HDMI on the floor, connect to the Sammy and see what PASSENGERS looks like with HDR...ummm.


----------



## k3nnis

Anyone here mounted their 5040/6040 slightly off centre of the screen on the ceiling? i.e. used a little big of horizontal lens shift? I am paranoid that I can't position the lens exactly centre of the screen....


----------



## aaranddeeman

k3nnis said:


> Anyone here mounted their 5040/6040 slightly off centre of the screen on the ceiling? i.e. used a little big of horizontal lens shift? I am paranoid that I can't position the lens exactly centre of the screen....


Relax. That's what the lens shift is for.
Else you will have to build the house based on where you want to mount the projector.


----------



## k3nnis

Ok anyone here have pics of their setup where their projector is not in the centre of screen? Want to see aesthetically how it looks like?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TheGizzard

llooping said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I don't know from when but I have a new video option on my Xbox One S.
> 
> Now, in advanced parameters of the video, I have the choice to set YCC 4.2.2.
> 
> I will try some tests on my combo X1S with the projector, maybe the end of this problem
> 
> CY


Can we get some other reports on this? I am trying to understand what problem this solves and if removes the need for a linker. 


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## drhankz

k3nnis said:


> Ok anyone here have pics of their setup where their projector is not in the centre of screen? Want to see aesthetically how it looks like?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Use a Step Ladder - put the projector where you want
and see how it throws the image.


----------



## TheGizzard

I just replaced my 100" screen with a 125" AT screen and I couldn't be happier. 125 is the largest I can go in my room. Bigger is better!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

spirithockey79 said:


> He started with a Rec 709 calibration using Calman. He indicated that HDMI Expanded should be used, not normal (and Superwhite should be OFF). He also said that using a P3 mode to calibrate Rec 709 (Cinema or Dig Cinema) would not make sense and would cause issues because a Rec 709 source would not be using the entire color gamut. So he used the Natural mode. Calibration went pretty effortlessly. With the manual iris setting however I didn't really get the sense that there was a "correct" option for my viewing environment, lumen output, etc --- or at least he didn't really mention it. He just picked -14 and calibrated based on that. He also moved gamma down to -1. Picture looks very good, a bit more natural (no pun intended) with skintones and colors not too saturated, although I kind of miss my old setting where apparently the colors were way out of whack!!


I stopped reading after this.
Sorry to say this, but your guy have no freakin clue what is talking about.


----------



## k3nnis

TheGizzard said:


> I just replaced my 100" screen with a 125" AT screen and I couldn't be happier. 125 is the largest I can go in my room. Bigger is better!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk




How far back do you sit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TheGizzard

k3nnis said:


> How far back do you sit?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Approx 14 feet. 


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

TheGizzard said:


> Approx 14 feet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk




Ok thx. Did 100" look small at that distance?

I'm debating between 100" and 110" from 10.5'



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TheGizzard

k3nnis said:


> Ok thx. Did 100" look small at that distance?
> 
> I'm debating between 100" and 110" from 10.5'
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is second time I've built a theater room. Each time bigger has been better.

My electric screen is in front of a 65" plasma. The 100" didn't look tremendously bigger than the 65". We know it obviously was, it's just 125" takes up much more of the wall. And now even my wife says it was worth the upgrade. 


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## llooping

TheGizzard said:


> Can we get some other reports on this? I am trying to understand what problem this solves and if removes the need for a linker.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Hi,

I checked yesterday and it is a failed 

The problem is even with the new option on Xbox One S with the option to force 4.2.2, the X1 keep the connection to 60hz 

I believed it was a good news but the job is not finished.........

Please, check the board here to understand what I means :

forums.xbox.com/fr-FR/thread/7BF47A64-FE51-409F-9F1D-56EE08E2239C

CY


----------



## darkangelism

k3nnis said:


> Ok thx. Did 100" look small at that distance?
> 
> I'm debating between 100" and 110" from 10.5'
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am at 135" from 10 feet. I tried 120" and it looked small.


----------



## chinna_n

*Green color cast in the right bottom corner*

I am very excited about this projector, and just bought one from Crutchfield to replace current Panasonic PT-AE8000 (which I was not really happy with because of hazyness).

The sharpness is very good with this projector, and was able to run both Projectors same time(each half screen). Sharpness and black levels are very good with 5040UB. 

But during calibration and testing I found my new projector has a green cast in the bottom right corner which is more visible in black/dark colors. Since I temporarily mounted on audio rack, I did use some vertical lens shift, and tiny bit of horizontal lens shift to align with screen. So relatively very little use of lens shift. 

So I am not sure if this was introduced because of lens shift. Any suggestions? Anyone observed this? Normal movie viewing you wouldn't notice, full white we wouldn't notice, but in dark scene with some center light, it is very easy to see.

Panel alignment seems pretty good to start with(only did 4 clicks for blue over entire frame and 2 clicks for Red). So I am hesitant to send it back and get another one as I may/may not get correct alignment on panels on next one. (See the photos, darker the image, more green cast)

Need to advice on this from all the gurus, whether to get replacement or not.

Thanks in Advance.


----------



## jsrdlr

k3nnis said:


> Ok thx. Did 100" look small at that distance?
> 
> I'm debating between 100" and 110" from 10.5'
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


FWIW, I sit about the same distance back and went with a 135" screen. Don't regret it one bit. Seems just about perfect to us.


----------



## jsrdlr

chinna_n said:


> I am very excited about this projector, and just bought one from Crutchfield to replace current Panasonic PT-AE8000 (which I was not really happy with because of hazyness).
> 
> The sharpness is very good with this projector, and was able to run both Projectors same time(each half screen). Sharpness and black levels are very good with 5040UB.
> 
> But during calibration and testing I found my new projector has a green cast in the bottom right corner which is more visible in black/dark colors. Since I temporarily mounted on audio rack, I did use some vertical lens shift, and tiny bit of horizontal lens shift to align with screen. So relatively very little use of lens shift.
> 
> So I am not sure if this was introduced because of lens shift. Any suggestions? Anyone observed this? Normal movie viewing you wouldn't notice, full white we wouldn't notice, but in dark scene with some center light, it is very easy to see.
> 
> Panel alignment seems pretty good to start with(only did 4 clicks for blue over entire frame and 2 clicks for Red). So I am hesitant to send it back and get another one as I may/may not get correct alignment on panels on next one. (See the photos, darker the image, more green cast)
> 
> Need to advice on this from all the gurus, whether to get replacement or not.
> 
> Thanks in Advance.


That would bug me too much if there was even a hint of that green during a dark movie scene. Personally, I'd replace it.


----------



## HarleyRider

chinna_n said:


> Need to advice on this from all the gurus, whether to get replacement or not.
> 
> Thanks in Advance.


Yeah, that shouldn't be there. I'd exchange it. It's not from lens shift. I've experimented with mine moving it all over the place and using some pretty severe lens shift and it never introduced anything like that. For what it's worth, I also got mine from Crutchfield and alignment was fine. I'd take my chances on a new one rather than live with that green blob.


----------



## dholmes54

Has anyone else used that aggravating HDMI clamp that goes on the projector to hold the cable in? I can't get it on,all thumbs I am!


----------



## chinna_n

HarleyRider said:


> Yeah, that shouldn't be there. I'd exchange it. It's not from lens shift. I've experimented with mine moving it all over the place and using some pretty severe lens shift and it never introduced anything like that. For what it's worth, I also got mine from Crutchfield and alignment was fine. I'd take my chances on a new one rather than live with that green blob.


Thanks HarleyRuder! I would take your advice and get a replacement asap. Hopefully I would get a good replacement.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

jsrdlr said:


> FWIW, I sit about the same distance back and went with a 135" screen. Don't regret it one bit. Seems just about perfect to us.


I would go 135" (2.35:1) but I can't because 14' is farthest I can put pj and it won't zoom out enough to fit 135" 2.35:1 screen. I would be able to put the pj back further if I removed the dining room ceiling fan :serious:, but, I live in an apartment, so...

p.s. I still might.


----------



## darkangelism

Snoogleheimer said:


> I would go 135" (2.35:1) but I can't because 14' is farthest I can put pj and it won't zoom out enough to fit 135" 2.35:1 screen. I would be able to put the pj back further if I removed the dining room ceiling fan :serious:, but, I live in an apartment, so...
> 
> p.s. I still might.


Do black bars bother you? a 135" 16:9 is still a larger 2.35 image than a 110" 2.35 screen, around 127"


----------



## Cardguy

PeterJ101 said:


> Strange. I was told by ProjectorPeople that ABT was not an authorized dealer and that they could not match the price. It's definitely annoying the UBE was not discounted, I was ready to buy.


I just purchased a 5040ube from ABT this week for 2500.00


----------



## TheGizzard

They shouldn't have to match the price. All the authorized sellers are selling for the same $500 off retail. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## jjwinterberg

inspector said:


> I might have a problem with that. My original cable run from PJ to my Onkyo 608 was HDMI 1.4. I have no idea how it was attached in the attic, so that's why I kept it. I'm using the same HDMI but reconnected it to the Sammy K8500, with an HDMI 1.4 to the Onkyo.
> 
> 
> I still get 4K and 7.2 audio but not HDR, from what I understand.
> 
> 
> My calibrator should tell all about that when I see him.
> 
> 
> I only have only one UHDBD (Passengers) but twenty five 3D BDs (no streaming, only physical disc) so it might not be worth the hassle to rerun new HDMI...at least cost is not a factor.
> 
> 
> I have a very large disc collection, over 2500 and from what I saw of PASSENGERS, I wasn't impressed, but my BDs look fantastic!
> 
> 
> Maybe not having HDR is maybe okay. I'm not paying the extra money for the 4ks, but I did do it for PASSENGERS to get the 3D.
> 
> 
> What I might do is run a new HDMI on the floor, connect to the Sammy and see what PASSENGERS looks like with HDR...ummm.




If you want to be sure about what you are receiving, press Menu, select INFO, select Projector Info. There will be a listing of the projector's status info including the color space and dynamic range setting.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

darkangelism said:


> Do black bars bother you? a 135" 16:9 is still a larger 2.35 image than a 110" 2.35 screen, around 127"


Won't fit. I also have to have the screen 38" off the flloor.


----------



## jsrdlr

Snoogleheimer said:


> Won't fit. I also have to have the screen 38" off the flloor.


Yeah, just do your best with the space available. I might have been able to go a bit wider but I was pushing the width of the room as-is. Plus, the doors to the theater are in the front so if the main door is opened more than maybe 25% it starts to block the screen. I'll need to find someone and change the doors to swing outward instead of inward. All in due time.


----------



## k3nnis

darkangelism said:


> I am at 135" from 10 feet. I tried 120" and it looked small.




Ok thx. Do you need to move your head sometimes to see at the extreme edges of the screen? Cuz I sort of mocked up a 110" screen at my seating distance and it seems like it is the case.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Snoogleheimer

k3nnis said:


> Ok thx. Do you need to move your head sometimes to see at the extreme edges of the screen? Cuz I sort of mocked up a 110" screen at my seating distance and it seems like it is the case.....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Go as big as you can. Just trust us.


----------



## k3nnis

Snoogleheimer said:


> Go as big as you can. Just trust us.




Ok  I will be pretty much at full zoom if I went with 110" due to throw distance. Still ok?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Draper

Snoogleheimer said:


> Go as big as you can. Just trust us.


If you can see wall it's not big enough

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## darkangelism

k3nnis said:


> Ok thx. Do you need to move your head sometimes to see at the extreme edges of the screen? Cuz I sort of mocked up a 110" screen at my seating distance and it seems like it is the case.....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not so much my head but my eyes if I have to focus on something not in the middle of the screen, but I can't focus on whole screen at once even on smaller displays I focus on the action and my eyes move around and follow it or glance down at a score during a game. This is the case on my 50" TV at 9 feet as well, some people, maybe you, can focus on a much larger section of the screen and can absorb information from everywhere. I can just barely see the edge of the wall at 135" but still above and below the screen. The bottom of the image right now is at 23 inches but I think 20 inches would be better, I just don't want to have the center channel too low. 

It is more than THX recommend, it is about 52 degrees of viewing angle. THX ideal seating position is about 50 degrees. 
IMAX wants even more extreme viewing angles, http://www.lfexaminer.com/20090522a.htm for IMAX digital the last seat in the theater should be around 45 degrees and the front row at 120 degrees. 
SMPTE doesn't provide a "recommended" just a minimum angle and a maximum, minimum is 33.8 degrees and maximum is 61.8 degrees

http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314viewing-angles/ "The viewing angle ‘sweet spot’ seems to be around 45-50 degrees where SMPTE, THX and 20th Century Fox recommendations converge. " 

To fully resolve 4k the seating distance would have to be only 8 feet on a 135 inch screen, Even with the fuax-K it is about 11 feet. 

Also seating style matters. Do you sit up, lean in, sit back or recline in the seat? My seating position is that if I am sitting up is about 10 feet, if I lean back it is probably closer to 11 or a bit more.


I didn't want to buy 120 and then want 135 because I would have to buy a new screen, however if I go 135 and decide some content is better at 120 I can just shrink it and it will still fit on the screen. I could also slide the seating back, the room is 16 feet, I just wanted space for rear surrounds, but could just as easily go 5.1 and move the seating back to 13 feet. 

I want the image to fill my vision, seeing the wall is distracting, in a fully light controlled room this wouldn't be a problem, but I'm not, so filling more space with image is more enjoyable to me.


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks for the info. I normally sit up when watching. Maybe I'm not used to the size as I only have a 55" tv at the moment. 

Also I have 9 feet ceilings. And I want to place the Epson as close to the ceiling as possible and hopefully if I do that I don't need to have screen too far off the ground as I prefer not to look up when watching.

Ps the walls are dark grey but ceiling is white.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## darkangelism

k3nnis said:


> Thanks for the info. I normally sit up when watching. Maybe I'm not used to the size as I only have a 55" tv at the moment.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am coming from a 50" TV where I sat about 8 feet away, which was too far. I am only about a week into having this projector, Sunday I watched about 7 hours and didn't find it fatiguing. I will wait on some other people to come watch before deciding if I need to move seating back at all. just a couple feet in either direction can make a big difference. I was testing to see how close I could get before seeing screen door effect, 6 feet for no 4k enhancement and 2 feet with, at those distances it is hard to actually watch anything but not hard to watch as a TV that close because of the brightness. 

I probably didn't do enough testing before ordering my screen, so I would say to watch a variety of content at each size, maybe even the same content for comparison.


----------



## k3nnis

darkangelism said:


> I am coming from a 50" TV where I sat about 8 feet away, which was too far. I am only about a week into having this projector, Sunday I watched about 7 hours and didn't find it fatiguing. I will wait on some other people to come watch before deciding if I need to move seating back at all. just a couple feet in either direction can make a big difference. I was testing to see how close I could get before seeing screen door effect, 6 feet for no 4k enhancement and 2 feet with, at those distances it is hard to actually watch anything but not hard to watch as a TV that close because of the brightness.
> 
> 
> 
> I probably didn't do enough testing before ordering my screen, so I would say to watch a variety of content at each size, maybe even the same content for comparison.




Ok thanks. I think for scope content will. E fine just worried 16:9 will be massive  but will let the eye be the judge 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

Quick stupid firmware question...

I'm getting my 6040ub installed tomorrow and will be updating the firmware of it and an Oppo UBD-203. Can I have both .bin files on the same drive and jump from one device to the other, or do I have to do one, delete, copy the other, and updatel?


----------



## HarleyRider

roland6465 said:


> Quick stupid firmware question...
> 
> I'm getting my 6040ub installed tomorrow and will be updating the firmware of it and an Oppo UBD-203. Can I have both .bin files on the same drive and jump from one device to the other, or do I have to do one, delete, copy the other, and updatel?


Most instructions will tell you to have the firmware file in the root of the drive with no other files. Do one file at a time.


----------



## jjwinterberg

roland6465 said:


> Quick stupid firmware question...
> 
> I'm getting my 6040ub installed tomorrow and will be updating the firmware of it and an Oppo UBD-203. Can I have both .bin files on the same drive and jump from one device to the other, or do I have to do one, delete, copy the other, and updatel?




I've used my Windows recovery USB drive to update both my Epson projector and my Oppo -203 so there were other files on the drive. I never had both the Oppo and Epson firmware .bin files on at the same time. I'm pretty sure that the Oppo looks for the UDP20X filename prefix on the .bin files and the Epson filename prefix is EPSONPJ.


I vote for give it a try and let us know how it works. The worst that would happen is the device wouldn't find the file and you have to go and delete one of the files.


Good Luck.


----------



## spirithockey79

aaranddeeman said:


> I stopped reading after this.
> 
> Sorry to say this, but your guy have no freakin clue what is talking about.




That's what I was afraid of. Now you have me concerned I don't have the best possible cal for SDR, which shouldn't be that difficult IMO. So what specifically do you disagree with? The fact that he didn't want to use a P3 mode for SDR, the fact that he used Expanded HDMI instead of Auto/SuperWhite, or both?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## thevenom

Hey everyone. I recently purchased the 5040UB and I'm awaiting final construction of the room.

The room will be L20xW15.5 with H8.9' ceilings. batcave. Viewing distance will be 11-13 feet.
Playback will be Movies, Computer gaming,Nintendo switch,Roku Ultra and a UHD 4K player(not sure which one yet).
My questions are.

I'm thinking about getting a screen from Silver Ticket 138" scope with white material.
I can place the projector anywhere but i'm unsure what the best place for it would be for clarity and brightness? all the way back to the wall or closer? is it better to be closer? will I get shimmer if its closer?
I will have tower speakers Klipsch F280's and the Klipsch 450C center. Do you think I should go bigger to 150" 16.9? and deal with the bars on top and bottom when 2.35 movies are played? Are they distracting? Do they look washed out and all you do is look at them?
Also how far off the ground can the center channel be?

Sorry for so many questions, New to the forum and to projection.


----------



## webmst

FYI - new beta from oppo now available check out their support page.

remember - there is always the option to learn to calibrate the projector yourself 
Good place to start is curt palme's website where he used to sell the CRT calibration DVD I produced years ago. his pricing and calibration reference material is good. The point I'm making is invest and learn once - use many times to suit.
I think the HDR world and limited projector light output may mean that calibration is now and will remain crucial for sometime to come.
*PRO's v CON's - Pro v DIY Calibration* 
will a home-grown option be as good as a professional version ??
Well depends on your investment in time and equipment etc 
Might be "pretty close" if you spend enough time..............
Can potentially use the gear on TV's and projectors - you might even like trying it  
If you need a professional calibrator every-time you change something with HDR and you want to do try changes over the next couple of years it will be expensive and potentially frustrating bringing someone back every couple of months.

Just a thought for those getting fed up with the calibration issues.


----------



## HarleyRider

spirithockey79 said:


> That's what I was afraid of. Now you have me concerned I don't have the best possible cal for SDR, which shouldn't be that difficult IMO. So what specifically do you disagree with? The fact that he didn't want to use a P3 mode for SDR, the fact that he used Expanded HDMI instead of Auto/SuperWhite, or both?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


What concerned me when I read your description was how he was trying to use a Rec. 709 pattern to calibrate Rec. 2020. Can't be done. You need the metadata of a 2020 pattern to force the projector into BT.2020 mode. But you knew that, which was good. Once you convinced him to switch to a 2020 signal, I'm pretty sure he should have been able to get your primaries and secondaries calibrated ok. Either they fall in the right place on the CIE diagram or they don't. He is correct that no consumer display can reproduce 100% of 2020, so I'm assuming he used 50% saturation patterns and calibrated to 50% saturation targets. And as long as he got the gamma to 2.2 with SDR and 2020 using Digital Cinema, your SDR 2020 calibration should be good. It isn't really any different than calibrating 709. What makes the difference between SDR and HDR is the difference in gamma curves. If you're stripping HDR and forcing SDR, then I think you want to be running a typical 2.2 gamma which I'm assuming is what he set up for you.

Obviously your HDR calibration is way off. Jacking up contrast to 100% is never the answer. I can tell you my best HDR calibration has brightness at about 65 and contrast down below 20, using Bright Cinema with primaries calibrated as closely as possible to 2020. Everything but green can be dialed in. Green is under saturated unless you're using one of the other 2 Cinema settings that slide the P3 color filter into place, but then your lumens drop. It's a trade off. And then i used a touch of custom gamma to bring the luminance down at the low end to bring the gamma back in line. My gamma isn't technically correct for HDR because I just did a 2.2 gamma curve instead of the EOTF curve at which HDR is mastered, but it seems to work.


----------



## inspector

jjwinterberg said:


> If you want to be sure about what you are receiving, press Menu, select INFO, select Projector Info. There will be a listing of the projector's status info including the color space and dynamic range setting.



Great, I'll check it out. The reason for the 1.4 is because I didn't get a new Onkyo. Just switched the 1.4 to the Sammy and then a 1.4 to the Onkyo. Still get 4K/3D but not HDR.


----------



## webmst

Obviously your HDR calibration is way off. Jacking up contrast to 100% is never the answer. I can tell you my best HDR calibration has brightness at about 65 and contrast down below 20, using Bright Cinema with primaries calibrated as closely as possible to 2020. Everything but green can be dialed in. Green is under saturated unless you're using one of the other 2 Cinema settings that slide the P3 color filter into place, but then your lumens drop. It's a trade off. And then i used a touch of custom gamma to bring the luminance down at the low end to bring the gamma back in line. My gamma isn't technically correct for HDR because I just did a 2.2 gamma curve instead of the EOTF curve at which HDR is mastered, but it seems to work.[/QUOTE]


One option to combat this feature is to use an add-on filter for Bright Cinema. this attempts to re-create the P3 colour space position that Digital or Cinema allows but with the higher light output of Bright Cinema. Then calibrate accordingly. I don't have one at the moment but I'm thinking of getting one.

http://www.beamer-discount.de/sonst...w9300-tw9300w-inkl-einstellwerte-p-50637.html

Just another option - but might need a fair amount of calibration work to get that dialed in correctly - and you would probably need to leave it in place for all material as it would be a pain to keep putting it on or off.


----------



## spirithockey79

HarleyRider said:


> What concerned me when I read your description was how he was trying to use a Rec. 709 pattern to calibrate Rec. 2020. Can't be done. You need the metadata of a 2020 pattern to force the projector into BT.2020 mode. But you knew that, which was good. Once you convinced him to switch to a 2020 signal, I'm pretty sure he should have been able to get your primaries and secondaries calibrated ok. Either they fall in the right place on the CIE diagram or they don't. He is correct that no consumer display can reproduce 100% of 2020, so I'm assuming he used 50% saturation patterns and calibrated to 50% saturation targets. And as long as he got the gamma to 2.2 with SDR and 2020 using Digital Cinema, your SDR 2020 calibration should be good. It isn't really any different than calibrating 709. What makes the difference between SDR and HDR is the difference in gamma curves. If you're stripping HDR and forcing SDR, then I think you want to be running a typical 2.2 gamma which I'm assuming is what he set up for you.
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously your HDR calibration is way off. Jacking up contrast to 100% is never the answer. I can tell you my best HDR calibration has brightness at about 65 and contrast down below 20, using Bright Cinema with primaries calibrated as closely as possible to 2020. Everything but green can be dialed in. Green is under saturated unless you're using one of the other 2 Cinema settings that slide the P3 color filter into place, but then your lumens drop. It's a trade off. And then i used a touch of custom gamma to bring the luminance down at the low end to bring the gamma back in line. My gamma isn't technically correct for HDR because I just did a 2.2 gamma curve instead of the EOTF curve at which HDR is mastered, but it seems to work.




This was very helpful, thanks. I feel a little better now at least about my SDR and SDR 2020 setting cause what you described is pretty much what he was saying --- at least after I got him to use Dig Cinema and to send an SDR 2020 signal for his calibration. I do remember him saying that he was using a 50/50 pattern but I thought that was with HDR. Maybe he did the same for the SDR 2020 But didn't actually mention until he was doing HDR. 

For your HDR setting, did you have to tweak the gray-scale much for each color? Like I said he bumped up brightness or saturation for many of the colors close to 100, but I felt like he really didn't finish the calibration as he was getting frustrated. It's interesting to hear the variance in some HDR settings on this thread, especially around contrast. I've seen some bumping up contrast to 85+ and others, such as yourself bringing it down quite a bit. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## TheGizzard

Screen is up. Projector is up. But I may have lost the battle on the ceiling color. How hard should I push to darken the ceiling? Will it make a big difference?










Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

*Planet Earth II*

Hi Guys,
Just watched a bit Planet Earth II on 4K blu-ray. Absolutely stunning. Using HDR1 with bright cinema. Really bright punchy image that is razor sharp. Colours were rich and saturated. If you want to show off your Epson throw this on. It is great demo material. As an added bonus the actual show is fantastic. How they got some of those shots is amazing.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## drhankz

TheGizzard said:


> Screen is up. Projector is up. But I may have lost the battle on the ceiling color. How hard should I push to darken the ceiling? Will it make a big difference?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


My ceiling was white for many years and once I switched
from OLD CRT Projectors to Solid State Projectors which
put out more light to bounce off the screen - I did paint
the ceiling BLACK and OMG is the best summary of the
difference. 

Let it go for awhile and see how the screen lights up the ceiling


----------



## roland6465

drhankz said:


> My ceiling was white for many years and once I switched
> from OLD CRT Projectors to Solid State Projectors which
> put out more light to bounce off the screen - I did paint
> the ceiling BLACK and OMG is the best summary of the
> difference.
> 
> Let it go for awhile and see how the screen lights up the ceiling


Yes, the difference is huge. I'm only at very dark gray on the front wall and ceiling, but the color sucks up all light.


----------



## roland6465

Having trouble with the firmware update. 8GB USB stick formatted to MS-DOS FAT, Epson .bin is the only file on it, pull power cord and turn on with power button pressed, and all indicators turn on for a few seconds, release power button, and the lights all go off. 

Any ideas?


----------



## HarleyRider

spirithockey79 said:


> For your HDR setting, did you have to tweak the gray-scale much for each color? Like I said he bumped up brightness or saturation for many of the colors close to 100, but I felt like he really didn't finish the calibration as he was getting frustrated. It's interesting to hear the variance in some HDR settings on this thread, especially around contrast. I've seen some bumping up contrast to 85+ and others, such as yourself bringing it down quite a bit.


If you're saying he went into the Advanced RGB settings (hue, saturation and brightness for RGBCYM) and was adjusting those to do grayscale, that doesn't sound right to me. I'm certainly no expert, but I read a lot, research a lot and experiment a lot, and I don't recall running across anything that talked about adjusting RGBCYM for grayscale. Those are the CMS settings where you go to adjust the primary and secondary colors. But I suppose if your overall luminance was too low (and conversely your gamma too high), you could try jacking things up there, but then I think your color levels would be way off.

To adjust the grayscale, I just did a two-point grayscale calibration using 80% and 20% gray patterns using the controls under "Color Temp...Customized" where you can adjust the gain and bias for RGB. With the right brightness and contrast settings, you can track pretty close to gamma 2.2 on this projector by just doing the two-point grayscale calibration.

There are a lot of variables that come into play which is why there are so many different settings being talked about. In my case, I have a 1.2 gain gray screen, so my settings are going to be totally different from someone who has a 1.0 gain white screen. The main reason I started learning how to calibrate myself is because using someone else's settings was a crap shoot. I just couldn't get things to look like they should trying other people's settings. Plus I'm a total nerd and I love messing with this stuff.


----------



## dholmes54

Should I get 442 or 444 on the Epson,it shows 12bit 2020 442 & I use SDR don't like none of the hdrs


----------



## HarleyRider

roland6465 said:


> Having trouble with the firmware update. 8GB USB stick formatted to MS-DOS FAT, Epson .bin is the only file on it, pull power cord and turn on with power button pressed, and all indicators turn on for a few seconds, release power button, and the lights all go off.
> 
> Any ideas?


This may sound silly, but double-check you have the USB stick in the right port. There's a vertical port on the left side that a USB stick will fit into, but that's not the right one. The correct one is the horizontal port near the middle of the back panel.

Only other thing I can think of is maybe you're holding the power button too long after you plug it back in. I've done that before and then it just powers back off instead of going into update mode.


----------



## roland6465

HarleyRider said:


> This may sound silly, but double-check you have the USB stick in the right port. There's a vertical port on the left side that a USB stick will fit into, but that's not the right one. The correct one is the horizontal port near the middle of the back panel.
> 
> Only other thing I can think of is maybe you're holding the power button too long after you plug it back in. I've done that before and then it just powers back off instead of going into update mode.


Yeah, using the back input. I've tried a couple more times to no avail.


----------



## jsrdlr

thevenom said:


> Hey everyone. I recently purchased the 5040UB and I'm awaiting final construction of the room.
> 
> The room will be L20xW15.5 with H8.9' ceilings. batcave. Viewing distance will be 11-13 feet.
> Playback will be Movies, Computer gaming,Nintendo switch,Roku Ultra and a UHD 4K player(not sure which one yet).
> My questions are.
> 
> I'm thinking about getting a screen from Silver Ticket 138" scope with white material.
> I can place the projector anywhere but i'm unsure what the best place for it would be for clarity and brightness? all the way back to the wall or closer? is it better to be closer? will I get shimmer if its closer?
> I will have tower speakers Klipsch F280's and the Klipsch 450C center. Do you think I should go bigger to 150" 16.9? and deal with the bars on top and bottom when 2.35 movies are played? Are they distracting? Do they look washed out and all you do is look at them?
> Also how far off the ground can the center channel be?
> 
> Sorry for so many questions, New to the forum and to projection.


FWIW, I was going to go with a scope screen and my installer talked me into the 16:9 instead since we'll watch a fair amount of regular TV and sports. I don't notice the bars at all though I can see them if I look for it. It doesn't bother me and I'm happy I switched to the 16:9.


----------



## HarleyRider

roland6465 said:


> Yeah, using the back input. I've tried a couple more times to no avail.


Do you have a different USB stick you could try? I've read it can be finicky. One will work, another won't. If it's shutting down right away, it's either not recognizing the USB stick or it's not seeing the right firmware file.

So I'd try reformatting the USB. Full format, not quick. Recopy the .bin, verify it's the correct file. If none of that works, try a different USB stick.


----------



## roland6465

HarleyRider said:


> Do you have a different USB stick you could try? I've read it can be finicky. One will work, another won't. If it's shutting down right away, it's either not recognizing the USB stick or it's not seeing the right firmware file.
> 
> So I'd try reformatting the USB. Full format, not quick. Recopy the .bin, verify it's the correct file. If none of that works, try a different USB stick.


I'm on my third stick, no dice. I've used the Mac disc utility to erase, then chosen exFat re-copied each one. Grrrrrr.


----------



## taylor34

I'm trying to decide whether the 5040ub is worth it over my old viewsonic pro8100 at the $2500 it is currently. At $3k it was definitely no, but at $2.5k it's close since I use the projector so much (couple hours a night). Anyone move from a pro8100 (or similar 2008 era projector) and regret it?


----------



## HarleyRider

roland6465 said:


> I'm on my third stick, no dice. I've used the Mac disc utility to erase, then chosen exFat re-copied each one. Grrrrrr.


I'm thinking it's the ExFAT that it's not liking. Have you tried formatting as MS-DOS (FAT)?


----------



## roland6465

HarleyRider said:


> I'm thinking it's the ExFAT that it's not liking. Have you tried formatting as MS-DOS (FAT)?


Yep. Wife is picking up a new stick on the way home and I'll try from scratch. Some of mine are years old.


----------



## Thxtheater

When using Calman, what meters and test patterns have people had good success with to get BT.2020 and HDR with the 5040UB?


----------



## inspector

jjwinterberg said:


> If you want to be sure about what you are receiving, press Menu, select INFO, select Projector Info. There will be a listing of the projector's status info including the color space and dynamic range setting.



Put on PASSENGERS and it read:


Color Depth: 12 Bit 4:2:2
Color Format: BT. 2020 HDR 2


----------



## roland6465

Finally got the pj to accept the update from a new USB stick. Spent most of the afternoon overtweaking and getting cross-eyed until my wife came home, told me what she didn't like about the picture, and I reset and got it looking way better. Going to screen Deadpool UHD after dinner, and see what HDR setting I like.


----------



## [email protected]

Currently on my second 5040UBE. Just got it in today and up and running.

Convergence was/is horrible. I have adjusted it best I can and spent about an hour going through it.

Anyone else have convergence issues with theirs? 

I have been trying to remember if my first one was bad like this one (never got a chance to adjust it before a vertical line of stuck cyan pixels developed a 1/4 over from the right side of the screen).

Wondering if I should send this one back and go for a third. . .


----------



## Savatage316

So I love my epson and have been enjoying it, but I got to say the more I've had nonstop hdr issues with things the more I get irritated because I bought this projector based on the notion that it does hdr as it says in the description and I'm really bugged that the jvc does hdr the way it's meant to be. 

I mean I know others are bugged by it as well, but it feels like epson needs to be a little more accountable for it as I feel it was a misrepresention. I bought it off amazon and it doesn't say 2k hdr, says hdr compatible, enjoy hdr content... And it's just starting to bug me further because I love this machine but I don't feel I got what I thought I was paying for when it comes to hdr. 

Just bugging me. Especially with the jvc in town as well.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Savatage316 said:


> So I love my epson and have been enjoying it, but I got to say the more I've had nonstop hdr issues with things the more I get irritated because I bought this projector based on the notion that it does hdr as it says in the description and I'm really bugged that the jvc does hdr the way it's meant to be.


JVC or any other PJ available currently on the planet have same "issues" with HDR. There are not enough lumens.


----------



## schmidtwi

Thanks to @*Snoogleheimer*, @*Trigger* & @*chevpowr* for recommending the Sony UBP-X800! Just picked mine up today from BB. Set up quickly and played Netflix @24Hz, 12 Bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR2 - WOW!!! What an incredible picture - first time I've fed the 5040 an HDR signal - huge difference. Amazon app has 4K no UHD, VUDU app has no 4K - hope they both update, or I may not use them much anymore... 


Popped in Independence Day Resurgence 4K HDR BRD, recognized HDR right away - unbelievable difference from regular 4K (60Hz) from XB1s! I didn't know what I was missing. ATMOS works great also. 


Now I just have to re-calibrate with DVE using Bright Cinema (was using Digital Cinema, HDR2). Looking forward to renting many more UHD BR's from 3d-blurayrental.com AND watching all the good UHD HDR content on Netflix. 


I highly recommend the Sony X800 to anyone who wants to get the most from their 5040!


----------



## [email protected]

Savatage316 said:


> So I love my epson and have been enjoying it, but I got to say the more I've had nonstop hdr issues with things the more I get irritated because I bought this projector based on the notion that it does hdr as it says in the description and I'm really bugged that the jvc does hdr the way it's meant to be.
> 
> I mean I know others are bugged by it as well, but it feels like epson needs to be a little more accountable for it as I feel it was a misrepresention. I bought it off amazon and it doesn't say 2k hdr, says hdr compatible, enjoy hdr content... And it's just starting to bug me further because I love this machine but I don't feel I got what I thought I was paying for when it comes to hdr.
> 
> Just bugging me. Especially with the jvc in town as well.


I can honestly understand where you are coming from. I read about the difference between the two until I couldn't no more.

Here is the conclusion I came too. This projector is limited based on its chipset and there isn't anything we can do about it (unless you wait for a 5050). And at first, that was my reason for trying to stretch my budget to get the JVC RS420. However, after debating, listing pros/cons, I came to this:

At the end of the day, neither of the projectors are perfect. You definitely get a better, perceivable sharper image with the Epson before artifacts and other enhancement becomes very artificial looking (nature of LCD/image enhancement that the Epson has.) The JVC has better contrast with the Blacks, etc. etc. Overall, both have their flaws. Go over and read about the CMD issue plaguing the JVC owners right now as an example.

When it comes to HDR -- sure the JVC has the full "capability". But if you read the feedback on the JVC, HDR Calibration is still needed, and even then, there are still moments that those guys fight to produce an 'honest' HDR image. At the end of the day, projectors are limited in light output to properly produce an HDR image. Not to mention, how much 4.4.4 content is truly out there in 60hz format other than some game material (very limited, still)??

Overall, HDR is still very, very new. Once something like Dolby Vision hits projectors that are also true Native 4K projectors and the rest of the world has caught up to the tech (AVRs, HDMI Cable Standards, Chipsets, etc. etc.), then it will be time to truly upgrade from the Epson. By then, we might have affordable Laser tech, better LED tech, and possibly 3 chip DLP tech available to the everyday Joe.

For the time being, the Epson saved you at least $1000 over the JVC if you shopped around and/or got it during the sale, that could be put towards an upgrade a couple of years from now when all the new specs are ironed out.

That was at least my justification, and I am not going to lose another night of sleep reading the forums trying to decide. If you know what I mean.


----------



## Savatage316

[email protected] said:


> I can honestly understand where you are coming from. I read about the difference between the two until I couldn't no more.
> 
> Here is the conclusion I came too. This projector is limited based on its chipset and there isn't anything we can do about it (unless you wait for a 5050). And at first, that was my reason for trying to stretch my budget to get the JVC RS420. However, after debating, listing pros/cons, I came to this:
> 
> At the end of the day, neither of the projectors are perfect. You definitely get a better, perceivable sharper image with the Epson before artifacts and other enhancement becomes very artificial looking (nature of LCD/image enhancement that the Epson has.) The JVC has better contrast with the Blacks, etc. etc. Overall, both have their flaws. Go over and read about the CMD issue plaguing the JVC owners right now as an example.
> 
> When it comes to HDR -- sure the JVC has the full "capability". But if you read the feedback on the JVC, HDR Calibration is still needed, and even then, there are still moments that those guys fight to produce an 'honest' HDR image. At the end of the day, projectors are limited in light output to properly produce an HDR image. Not to mention, how much 4.4.4 content is truly out there in 60hz format other than some game material (very limited, still)??
> 
> Overall, HDR is still very, very new. Once something like Dolby Vision hits projectors that are also true Native 4K projectors and the rest of the world has caught up to the tech (AVRs, HDMI Cable Standards, Chipsets, etc. etc.), then it will be time to truly upgrade from the Epson. By then, we might have affordable Laser tech, better LED tech, and possibly 3 chip DLP tech available to the everyday Joe.
> 
> For the time being, the Epson saved you at least $1000 over the JVC if you shopped around and/or got it during the sale, that could be put towards an upgrade a couple of years from now when all the new specs are ironed out.
> 
> That was at least my justification, and I am not going to lose another night of sleep reading the forums trying to decide. If you know what I mean.



Thanks for the post man.. Yea that's where I guess I gotta be.. I think what bugs me the most is that I personally still have no idea what hdr is like even at 2k as my projector while amazing just can't accept it for some reason. And I've been on this board numerous times earlier tryin to figure things out with it but I'm still confused on some stuff. I was getting a purple screen when hdr was on via ps4 for instance. 

But I actually didn't read any of the jvc stuff yet, I had seen brief mentions that it does full hdr and so I just took that and ran with it. 

I love my epson tho, this thing has been incredible...its to where I say what really is native 4k as I don't see how any other 4k image can be that much better.. Id love to see it side by side to native 4k pj. 

But yea, i know things are still early for hdr..i just wish epson wouldn't of advertised it so quickly as hdr compatible.


----------



## jsrdlr

Savatage316 said:


> Thanks for the post man.. Yea that's where I guess I gotta be.. I think what bugs me the most is that I personally still have no idea what hdr is like even at 2k as my projector while amazing just can't accept it for some reason. And I've been on this board numerous times earlier tryin to figure things out with it but I'm still confused on some stuff. I was getting a purple screen when hdr was on via ps4 for instance.
> 
> But I actually didn't read any of the jvc stuff yet, I had seen brief mentions that it does full hdr and so I just took that and ran with it.
> 
> I love my epson tho, this thing has been incredible...its to where I say what really is native 4k as I don't see how any other 4k image can be that much better.. Id love to see it side by side to native 4k pj.
> 
> But yea, i know things are still early for hdr..i just wish epson wouldn't of advertised it so quickly as hdr compatible.


What's your 4k HDR source besides the PS4? I just had a 6040 installed along with a Philips 4K player and HDR on bright cinema was phenomenal with Planet Earth 2. Star Trek Into Darkness was tougher because it is a dark movie already. Still looked good, just more of a challenge. Eventually I'll spend the time to try and make it look better but I'm just enjoying it for now. I'm considering an ISF calibration too but need to break it in.

Anyway, curious if you have a 4K HDR player. Yes, it's dimmer, but honestly it's just not as lastingly bright as a normal 1080 picture. I think someone said you just have to adjust to it, and I think they're right.


----------



## [email protected]

Savatage316 said:


> Thanks for the post man.. Yea that's where I guess I gotta be.. I think what bugs me the most is that I personally still have no idea what hdr is like even at 2k as my projector while amazing just can't accept it for some reason. And I've been on this board numerous times earlier tryin to figure things out with it but I'm still confused on some stuff. I was getting a purple screen when hdr was on via ps4 for instance.
> 
> But I actually didn't read any of the jvc stuff yet, I had seen brief mentions that it does full hdr and so I just took that and ran with it.
> 
> I love my epson tho, this thing has been incredible...its to where I say what really is native 4k as I don't see how any other 4k image can be that much better.. Id love to see it side by side to native 4k pj.
> 
> But yea, i know things are still early for hdr..i just wish epson wouldn't of advertised it so quickly as hdr compatible.


Sounds like a possible HDMI Cable issue? Or perhaps the PS4 is pushing a video signal that exceeds the capability of the Epson. For me, I don't game as much as I used to, so I'll eventually just buy a stand alone player (where maybe back in the day I'd buy a PS4 like I did my PS3 for dual purposes).


----------



## Savatage316

Well my current 4k player is the X1S which is only temporary, I was going to buy a dedicated 4k player soon but I know there are some issues with it accepting hdr from consoles. 

My Pc which I use a 1080 currently soon a 1080 ti ftw3, runs thru my Denon s910w and later I'm going to test hdr with Mass effect and see what I get. 

My cables are all new and high speed from monoprirce. 

It's mainly been hdr from ps4 and Xbox 1 S that are definitely causing the issues. 

I was going to be checking in and seeing what 4k players are great pickups, but since I'm here I'll see what's happening with. Is that Sony above as good as the latest oppo?


----------



## schmidtwi

Savatage316 said:


> Is that Sony above as good as the latest oppo?


 
From what I read on the Sony X800 thread, there are plenty of problems with the new Oppo. Some have had problems with this Sony, but mine works fantastic and is *much* less expensive. Will be using this Sony for everything but gaming - IMHO 4K gaming is great without HDR on the 5040... The Sony is replacing my XB1s 4k player and my Roku Premiere+ for streaming to the Epson.


I'm using a 7 year old 25' non-certified Monoprice HDMI cable from my Denon X4300H to the Epson 5040 with no issues.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

schmidtwi said:


> Thanks to @*Snoogleheimer*, @*Trigger* & @*chevpowr* for recommending the Sony UBP-X800! Just picked mine up today from BB. Set up quickly and played Netflix @24Hz, 12 Bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR2 - WOW!!! What an incredible picture - first time I've fed the 5040 an HDR signal - huge difference. Amazon app has 4K no UHD, VUDU app has no 4K - hope they both update, or I may not use them much anymore...
> 
> 
> Popped in Independence Day Resurgence 4K HDR BRD, recognized HDR right away - unbelievable difference from regular 4K (60Hz) from XB1s! I didn't know what I was missing. ATMOS works great also.
> 
> 
> Now I just have to re-calibrate with DVE using Bright Cinema (was using Digital Cinema, HDR2). Looking forward to renting many more UHD BR's from 3d-blurayrental.com AND watching all the good UHD HDR content on Netflix.
> 
> 
> I highly recommend the Sony X800 to anyone who wants to get the most from their 5040!


Good deal! Well, I just got home to find my 2 free movies in the mail (Passengers, Chappie). Too damn tired to watch one of them now. Checking out Despicable Me 2 via Xfinity -> Epson 5040ub. Looks pretty damn good.


----------



## Evan201

Is there any way to get rid of some of the motion judder when streaming? I just fired up Star Trek on the Nvidia shield in the FXnow app and it's terrible. 
I have the TVHZ app which allows me to set the hz to 24p or 60p. The 60p seems a tad better, but it's still pretty unwatchable compared to Blu ray. Any ideas or is streaming just always going to suck with motion? Some movies better than others? Some apps better than others?
Seems Netflix doesn't have the same issue as the fxnow app.


----------



## jjwinterberg

inspector said:


> Put on PASSENGERS and it read:
> 
> 
> Color Depth: 12 Bit 4:2:2
> Color Format: BT. 2020 HDR 2


Looks like you are getting HDR just like you should. 

You may want to try and use HDR mode 1. It will be a brighter picture.


----------



## Jerry Bruckheimer Fan

Savatage316 said:


> And I've been on this board numerous times earlier tryin to figure things out with it but I'm still confused on some stuff. I was getting a purple screen when hdr was on via ps4 for instance.


I don't own an Epson 5040 yet (although I'm leaning towards getting one). That purple screen might be a AV receiver video conversion issue. I got something very similar. I was playing some PS4 games (Deus Ex Mankind Divided & The Last of Us) when I decided to test out the HDR function in the game. I turned on the HDMI UHD Color function in my Samsung 65JS8500 and then turned the HDR function "on" in the respective PS4 games. Immediately, I got this pink screen that made the picture unusable. I tested around until I figured out the problem. I was running my Marantz SR5010 AVR and in the video output settings, I had the video conversion set to "on". I turned it off and the HDR function then worked fine. The only problem then was that the Marantz GUI would not appear if I'm trying to change the volume. If I pressed "info" on my AVR, it'd stop the picture completely and turn to black and only then display the GUI. Anyway, I hope that helps.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Evan201 said:


> Is there any way to get rid of some of the motion judder when streaming? I just fired up Star Trek on the Nvidia shield in the FXnow app and it's terrible.
> I have the TVHZ app which allows me to set the hz to 24p or 60p. The 60p seems a tad better, but it's still pretty unwatchable compared to Blu ray. Any ideas or is streaming just always going to suck with motion? Some movies better than others? Some apps better than others?
> Seems Netflix doesn't have the same issue as the fxnow app.


I think it's a reception issue. I've noticed it most when watching stuff through my antenna. Comes and goes. Not sure there's much you can do about it. That's why physical media is still king.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Savatage316 said:


> So I love my epson and have been enjoying it, but I got to say the more I've had nonstop hdr issues with things the more I get irritated because I bought this projector based on the notion that it does hdr as it says in the description and I'm really bugged that the jvc does hdr the way it's meant to be.
> 
> I mean I know others are bugged by it as well, but it feels like epson needs to be a little more accountable for it as I feel it was a misrepresention. I bought it off amazon and it doesn't say 2k hdr, says hdr compatible, enjoy hdr content... And it's just starting to bug me further because I love this machine but I don't feel I got what I thought I was paying for when it comes to hdr.
> 
> Just bugging me. Especially with the jvc in town as well.


I've tried to work with HDR with this projector and I've just concluded it's not worth the trouble for me. I just pretend like it doesn't support it.


----------



## schmidtwi

flapjackdowntheline said:


> I've tried to work with HDR with this projector and I've just concluded it's not worth the trouble for me. I just pretend like it doesn't support it.




Quite the contrary, HDR is absolutely fantastic on the 5040 using 24Hz input with the right device.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

schmidtwi said:


> Quite the contrary, HDR is absolutely fantastic on the 5040 using 24Hz input with the right device.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, it can look nice, but (1) I simply prefer a brighter picture, and HDR sacrifices too much brightness for my taste, and (2) I just don't want to fuss around with the projector settings when I want to watch something.


----------



## [email protected]

Did anyone have bad convergence on their 5040? Trying to decide if I should send mine back??


----------



## 3DBob

[email protected] said:


> Did anyone have bad convergence on their 5040? Trying to decide if I should send mine back??


 I just got my projector and am going to do a panel alignment today. See page 78 of the User Guide. If you send it back, that is what Epson would do anyway. These projectors get rough handling in shipping. So everyone probably needs a little alignment, though most people wouldn't notice it I think. It should help with 3D crosstalk as well.


----------



## Geraldius

[email protected] said:


> Did anyone have bad convergence on their 5040? Trying to decide if I should send mine back??


Define 'bad'. I did the convergence on mine, including spot convergence, and it came out very acceptable. Worst was at the far edges where the test pattern lines are 'fatter'. This I attribute to the wide-angle short throw I'm using. Could do better with longer throw.


----------



## [email protected]

3DBob said:


> I just got my projector and am going to do a panel alignment today. See page 78 of the User Guide. If you send it back, that is what Epson would do anyway. These projectors get rough handling in shipping. So everyone probably needs a little alignment, though most people wouldn't notice it I think. It should help with 3D crosstalk as well.


True -- I guess I just saw the box that mine came in (Amazon double boxed it with no additional packing material to take up the extra void) and was thinking mine had a rougher trip than normal. It was shipped via UPS and they are the worst when it comes to that. Just had me thinking in the future what the internals might do.



Geraldius said:


> Define 'bad'. I did the convergence on mine, including spot convergence, and it came out very acceptable. Worst was at the far edges where the test pattern lines are 'fatter'. This I attribute to the wide-angle short throw I'm using. Could do better with longer throw.


I was almost two full pixels off on the red panel on the left hand side of the screen and randomly one line over on the right side. I had to do panel, then corner adjustment, and then spot alignment to get it close.


I guess, I just hope nothing is terribly off/broken with it. Coming from photography with nice Canon L lenses, a bad trip on an airplane can through off the lens elements.


----------



## Geraldius

schmidtwi said:


> Thanks to @*Snoogleheimer*, @*Trigger* & @*chevpowr* for recommending the Sony UBP-X800! Just picked mine up today from BB. Set up quickly and played Netflix @24Hz, 12 Bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR2 - WOW!!! What an incredible picture - first time I've fed the 5040 an HDR signal - huge difference. Amazon app has 4K no UHD, VUDU app has no 4K - hope they both update, or I may not use them much anymore...
> 
> Popped in Independence Day Resurgence 4K HDR BRD, recognized HDR right away - unbelievable difference from regular 4K (60Hz) from XB1s! I didn't know what I was missing. ATMOS works great also.
> 
> Now I just have to re-calibrate with DVE using Bright Cinema (was using Digital Cinema, HDR2). Looking forward to renting many more UHD BR's from 3d-blurayrental.com AND watching all the good UHD HDR content on Netflix.
> 
> I highly recommend the Sony X800 to anyone who wants to get the most from their 5040!


Another vote for the Sony UBP-X800 with this projector. It just works.
I like a bright picture, and with my 135" screen it's a bit of a challenge with HDR. Here are some of my quick and dirty settings that resulted in a reasonably bright picture that is visually (to me) a worthwhile improvement over SDR.
This is from memory:
All image enhancement off
HDMI extended range
HDR mode Auto Bright
Bright Cinema
brightness 50-60 depending on content
High power lamp mode
Gamma +1 (a custom gamma curve should be better)
I may have missed something but all other settings left at default as I recall.
Also, I have the 5040UBE and am using only the wireless HDMI link. Software update 109


----------



## dholmes54

What calibration disk are you guys using, I've got the Disney's WOW disk,but its just a std blu-ray,do they make a uhd disk?


----------



## 3DBob

[email protected] said:


> True -- I guess I just saw the box that mine came in (Amazon double boxed it with no additional packing material to take up the extra void) and was thinking mine had a rougher trip than normal. It was shipped via UPS and they are the worst when it comes to that. Just had me thinking in the future what the internals might do.


 Mine came from Spokane, WA to Michigan by truck and made 5 unloads/reloads along the way per UPS. I can only imagine the jostling it took. The double box is factory packing I believe. They rely on the Styrofoam to take up the vibrations. I was/am worried too about all that rough handling--I can tell you from what a friend of mine said who worked there, they have fun to see who can throw boxes the farthest and the heaviest. I had a box with a camera in it delivered by UPS from Amazon a year ago, and watched out of my office window as the driver refused to bend over and dropped it from waist height. I opened the door and called him on it as he left. He laughed and said that is what insurance is for. I've learned not to complain, as I did that once and all my packages came damaged for several months.


----------



## Don Draper

[email protected] said:


> I can honestly understand where you are coming from. I read about the difference between the two until I couldn't no more.
> 
> Here is the conclusion I came too. This projector is limited based on its chipset and there isn't anything we can do about it (unless you wait for a 5050). And at first, that was my reason for trying to stretch my budget to get the JVC RS420. However, after debating, listing pros/cons, I came to this:
> 
> At the end of the day, neither of the projectors are perfect. You definitely get a better, perceivable sharper image with the Epson before artifacts and other enhancement becomes very artificial looking (nature of LCD/image enhancement that the Epson has.) The JVC has better contrast with the Blacks, etc. etc. Overall, both have their flaws. Go over and read about the CMD issue plaguing the JVC owners right now as an example.
> 
> When it comes to HDR -- sure the JVC has the full "capability". But if you read the feedback on the JVC, HDR Calibration is still needed, and even then, there are still moments that those guys fight to produce an 'honest' HDR image. At the end of the day, projectors are limited in light output to properly produce an HDR image. Not to mention, how much 4.4.4 content is truly out there in 60hz format other than some game material (very limited, still)??
> 
> Overall, HDR is still very, very new. Once something like Dolby Vision hits projectors that are also true Native 4K projectors and the rest of the world has caught up to the tech (AVRs, HDMI Cable Standards, Chipsets, etc. etc.), then it will be time to truly upgrade from the Epson. By then, we might have affordable Laser tech, better LED tech, and possibly 3 chip DLP tech available to the everyday Joe.
> 
> For the time being, the Epson saved you at least $1000 over the JVC if you shopped around and/or got it during the sale, that could be put towards an upgrade a couple of years from now when all the new specs are ironed out.
> 
> That was at least my justification, and I am not going to lose another night of sleep reading the forums trying to decide. If you know what I mean.


Almost got rid of my epson for the jvc. Ended up buying a 65 "samsung 8000 series for the family room. Checked out some hdr content to see what "real" hdr should look like. Came to the conclusion no projector is pulling that off right now and if it could not sure how comfortable it would be in a dark room. It literally looks like looking out a window , it's rather breathtaking. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## GregCh

Don Draper said:


> Almost got rid of my epson for the jvc. Ended up buying a 65 "samsung 8000 series for the family room. Checked out some hdr content to see what "real" hdr should look like. Came to the conclusion no projector is pulling that off right now and if it could not sure how comfortable it would be in a dark room. It literally looks like looking out a window , it's rather breathtaking.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Agreed!

HDR isn't really HDR in the consumer projector world yet.

Possibly when Dolby Vision is available in a projector and the light source is much brighter then HDR will be comparable to LCD or Oled HDR. 

The biggest beef I have with the Epson is that it not only doesn't have the brightness and contrast to handle HDR but it also can't handle WCG without the filter in place which cuts brightness almost in half. Combine that with the fact that it is pixel shifting rather than displaying native 4K and the Epson is really an awkward projector "Feature wise". It seems to be a model that will rapidly be outdated.

However, for the price, I guess you can't expect cutting edge, high-end tech.


----------



## gene4ht

[email protected] said:


> Overall, HDR is still very, very new.





Don Draper said:


> Came to the conclusion no projector is pulling that off right now...





GregCh said:


> Agreed! HDR isn't really HDR in the consumer projector world yet.


This has been often repeated throughout this thread since its inception. Each time a new crop of PJ owners (Epson, JVC, otherwise) materialize, owners have tweaked and shared settings to optimize HDR capaability only to find that HDR and PJs are not ready for prime time...yet Until PJs can deliver the necessary lumens and HDR content standards become a reality, we'll likely continue to see these comments come up again.


----------



## Don Draper

gene4ht said:


> This has been often repeated throughout this thread since its inception. Each time a new crop of PJ owners (Epson, JVC, otherwise) materialize, owners have tweaked and shared settings to optimize HDR capaability only to find that HDR and PJs are not ready for prime time...yet Until PJs can deliver the necessary lumens and HDR content standards become a reality, we'll likely continue to see these comments come up again.


Yep.. Coming from a 7 year old 5010, so the increased pq minus dip in black level performance is still worth it. Plus now I get to finally permanently mount 5010 in back yard. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## PeterJ101

Do you think the next Epson will be announced in August/Sept or do you think they will take a longer development cycle like they did with the 5030 - 5040?


----------



## ayrton

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Yeah, it can look nice, but (1) I simply prefer a brighter picture, and HDR sacrifices too much brightness for my taste, and (2) I just don't want to fuss around with the projector settings when I want to watch something.


Just got my 203, thought I might to have to strip HDR. Basically used auto settings playing X-men Apocalypse 4K HDR and it looked great. Didn't change any settings other than playing it in HDR1. Looked pretty good in Cinema mode.

Using a Stewart 1.1 Cima 110" @ ~12 ft.

Overall I expected the worst and got a pretty good show. Pretty happy. After reading this whole thread, I will carefully select 4K HDR media..


----------



## WynsWrld98

PeterJ101 said:


> Do you think the next Epson will be announced in August/Sept or do you think they will take a longer development cycle like they did with the 5030 - 5040?


For a number of model years Epson was putting out new models every year. The gap between 5030 and 5040 longer but they did a major redesign on the 5040 so it makes sense. I could see them announcing a 5050 at CEDIA with 18 GB HDMI chip for better compatibility, perhaps increased lumens to help with HDR and more HDR tweaking. It wouldn't surprise me and due to this thinking it has kept me from upgrading from my current 5030 to the 5040.


----------



## jjwinterberg

ayrton said:


> Just got my 203, thought I might to have to strip HDR. Basically used auto settings playing X-men Apocalypse 4K HDR and it looked great. Didn't change any settings other than playing it in HDR1. Looked pretty good in Cinema mode.
> 
> Using a Stewart 1.1 Cima 110" @ ~12 ft.
> 
> Overall I expected the worst and got a pretty good show. Pretty happy. After reading this whole thread, I will carefully select 4K HDR media..




I've tried everything except a custom gamma curve for HDR and find that using Cinema and HDR1 is barely bright enough on my 120" screen. I find that stripping the HDR metadata on my -203 provides an exceptional picture. You should give it a try.


I'll probably try a custom gamma curve in the future but for now I pretty much go right for the stripped metadata and enjoy the film.


----------



## Sundodger

I see a lot of endorsements for the new Sony and I'm close to picking a player that will play nice with the 5040. I have an XB1, but want to try HDR and stream 4k/HDR as best I can (if possible).

What are the big draws for the new Sony vs last year's? Also, any new advantages over the popular Philips that weren't in the last version?


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

ayrton said:


> Just got my 203, thought I might to have to strip HDR. Basically used auto settings playing X-men Apocalypse 4K HDR and it looked great. Didn't change any settings other than playing it in HDR1. Looked pretty good in Cinema mode.
> 
> Using a Stewart 1.1 Cima 110" @ ~12 ft.
> 
> Overall I expected the worst and got a pretty good show. Pretty happy. After reading this whole thread, I will carefully select 4K HDR media..


Hmmm, maybe I should go in for a 203. I'm also at about ~12' and 110". Tivo Bolt, XBO, PS4 Pro, gaming PC, and a Linker thrown into the mix. I've settled in on no HDR, but you're making me want to give it another go...though, I kind of just want to relax and enjoy what I've got. I've had about a full week of just watching stuff and not messing around with settings and hardware. It gets exhausting, haha.


----------



## twcl

New Xbox One Update is online. 4:2:2 selectable and 4k 10bit Hdr at 24hz marked as green now. Will test tonight.


----------



## rmilyard

So anyone using Xbox One S with the 5040 what are your display settings on Xbox? I was trying Battlefield 1 and been getting black screen with little orange lines.


----------



## sddp

rmilyard said:


> So anyone using Xbox One S with the 5040 what are your display settings on Xbox? I was trying Battlefield 1 and been getting black screen with little orange lines.




I haven't fiddled with menu settings much, but have been playing Halo 1-4 remastered Chief collection and have no issues at all. I'll check tonight and see what I have them set at


----------



## cappy83

twcl said:


> New Xbox One Update is online. 4:2:2 selectable and 4k 10bit Hdr at 24hz marked as green now. Will test tonight.




I'm part of the preview program and have had this update for over a month.....It doesn't do anything...... Still can't get HDR on the Xbox one S


----------



## k3nnis

twcl said:


> New Xbox One Update is online. 4:2:2 selectable and 4k 10bit Hdr at 24hz marked as green now. Will test tonight.




Ok thanks. Let us know if Netflix 4k HDR works at 24Hz and also ultra hd Blu ray at 24Hz. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ayrton

jjwinterberg said:


> I've tried everything except a custom gamma curve for HDR and find that using Cinema and HDR1 is barely bright enough on my 120" screen. I find that stripping the HDR metadata on my -203 provides an exceptional picture. You should give it a try.
> 
> 
> I'll probably try a custom gamma curve in the future but for now I pretty much go right for the stripped metadata and enjoy the film.


Will try that.. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## ayrton

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Hmmm, maybe I should go in for a 203. I'm also at about ~12' and 110". Tivo Bolt, XBO, PS4 Pro, gaming PC, and a Linker thrown into the mix. I've settled in on no HDR, but you're making me want to give it another go...though, I kind of just want to relax and enjoy what I've got. I've had about a full week of just watching stuff and not messing around with settings and hardware. It gets exhausting, haha.


That's a lot of hardware! If you've already got a Linker, maybe a lesser priced 4K Player??

I bought the 203 because of my faith in OPPO and not having to buy a Linker, for my use..

Good luck on whatever you do..


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Well, got my free 2 movies and noticed 'Passengers' came with a 4k disk AND a HD 3d disk. COOL! Wish they all came with 4k & 3d. Anyway, now I need to order some 3d glasses and see if I like 3d.


----------



## jladner

Newbee question.. i have been enjoying my 5040ub on the factory settings for the past month.. I am now starting to experiment with calibrating the settings. My question is what do I do with the picture settings that my Oppo 103D has? Can i turn those off? Do i calibrate with the oppo 1st, then finlize the calibration on the epson? 

As a side note, I have noticed a slightly better picture with the oppo darbee at 60% AND using the epson detail enhancement preset 2 or 3 than either one alone while watching blurays.


----------



## inspector

Snoogleheimer said:


> Well, got my free 2 movies and noticed 'Passengers' came with a 4k disk AND a HD 3d disk. COOL! Wish they all came with 4k & 3d. Anyway, now I need to order some 3d glasses and see if I like 3d.




I have a 3D den DLP TV and use PASSIVE glasses and absolutely no ghosting.


My 6040, when using my friends 5010 Active glasses showed severe ghosting. Ordered Quatum 3D glasses ($38) from Amazon for the 6040/5040 and still had ghosting.


Returned them to Amazon and purchased Epsons for $81...still had ghosting.


To get rid of ghosting, you have to go into 3D DEPTH, while playing 3D and slide left or right from "0."


Jaws 3D slides all the way to -4 to get rid of ghosting.


So, could have those other glasses worked? Maybe, don't know. My advice would be try someone's glasses, use 3D DEPTH, then go from there.


One note, the Epson glasses are smaller than the Quatums. They fit snugger when wearing your prescription glasses.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

inspector said:


> One note, the Epson glasses are smaller than the Quatums. They fit snugger when wearing your prescription glasses.


I wear prescription glasses. I wonder which brand 3D glasses will work best for fitting over my glasses? Or, is it hopeless for people who wear glasses? Either way, even if I can't enjoy 3D, I will get some 3D glasses for guests.


----------



## john barlow

WynsWrld98 said:


> For a number of model years Epson was putting out new models every year. The gap between 5030 and 5040 longer but they did a major redesign on the 5040 so it makes sense. I could see them announcing a 5050 at CEDIA with 18 GB HDMI chip for better compatibility, perhaps increased lumens to help with HDR and more HDR tweaking. It wouldn't surprise me and due to this thinking it has kept me from upgrading from my current 5030 to the 5040.


Over the years in this hobby and high end two channel. I've shipped gear for factory upgrades many times for current equipment I owned. If they are going to offer an upgrade for the 18GBPS HDMI board, I'll sign on. What I wont do, is dump this pretty magnificent projector and spring for a brand new one, just for 18GBPS.


----------



## TheGizzard

john barlow said:


> Over the years in this hobby and high end two channel. I've shipped gear for factory upgrades many times for current equipment I owned. If they are going to offer an upgrade for the 18GBPS HDMI board, I'll sign on. What I wont do, is dump this pretty magnificent projector and spring for a brand new one, just for 18GBPS.


I was thinking the same thing. Do you think they could upgrade the HDMI board?


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Snoogleheimer said:


> I wear prescription glasses. I wonder which brand 3D glasses will work best for fitting over my glasses? Or, is it hopeless for people who wear glasses? Either way, even if I can't enjoy 3D, I will get some 3D glasses for guests.


This is yet another reoccurring topic in these threads for new PJ owners. Doing a search for 3D glasses will yield many results. However, IMO the most informative and helpful post has been by @Stecchino I am in agreement that the "ValueView" is lightweight and very comfortable for those of us who wear prescription glasses.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html


----------



## bommai

How much better is the 5040UB compared to the 1080UB. My 1080UB is still working even though I might have to buy a new bulb. The old generic bulb is getting dimmer and dimmer. Should I just buy another cheap bulb and manage with the 1080UB or should I upgrade? Is there another projector from Epson coming out this year? Should I wait for true 4K and HDR?


----------



## sddp

Snoogleheimer said:


> Well, got my free 2 movies and noticed 'Passengers' came with a 4k disk AND a HD 3d disk. COOL! Wish they all came with 4k & 3d. Anyway, now I need to order some 3d glasses and see if I like 3d.




I feel the same, I want both 4K and 3D disc


I am even willing to pay more if the studios made a package with all of them. Now when a film comes out, it's always a rock and a hard place choosing the 3D version or the 4K. And ironically they both come with Blu Ray, digital copy, and a bunch of other stuff. I just wish for the blockbuster films they came out with combo set with 4K and 3D Blu Ray.


----------



## sddp

Snoogleheimer said:


> I wear prescription glasses. I wonder which brand 3D glasses will work best for fitting over my glasses? Or, is it hopeless for people who wear glasses? Either way, even if I can't enjoy 3D, I will get some 3D glasses for guests.






If you have a lens crafters in your area, you can take the 3D glasses and have them make just the prescription glasses only to fit just inside the Epson 3D glasses and then use double sided 3M tape and cut a very thin layer and place it on the inside of the 3D glasses then place the lens on it. That’s what I did. And whalla…


----------



## v8maro

twcl said:


> New Xbox One Update is online. 4:2:2 selectable and 4k 10bit Hdr at 24hz marked as green now. Will test tonight.


orly? so basically the linker is useless now if you have a xb1s?


----------



## sddp

v8maro said:


> orly? so basically the linker is useless now if you have a xb1s?





Why would it be useless?
I thought the linker strips the HDR?


----------



## schmidtwi

bommai said:


> How much better is the 5040UB compared to the 1080UB. My 1080UB is still working even though I might have to buy a new bulb. The old generic bulb is getting dimmer and dimmer. Should I just buy another cheap bulb and manage with the 1080UB or should I upgrade? Is there another projector from Epson coming out this year? Should I wait for true 4K and HDR?




Buy this one at the current price. It's a fantastic projector.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

Is the UBE worth the $250 premium if I have trouble with hdmi? I have a 25' cable run 7.5 years ago that I am using with epson 1080ub with no problems. Will this cable work with the 5040ub as well or should I get the UBE version? It is a 25' hdmi cable from monoprice that I ran when I built the house. Not easy to upgrade that cable. Yikes.


----------



## dholmes54

I've decided to wait till after I have cataract surgery next month to calibrate my Epson, the out of the box settings aren't bad then I guess I'll use my wow disk unless someone knows of a better one.


----------



## schmidtwi

bommai said:


> Is the UBE worth the $250 premium if I have trouble with hdmi? I have a 25' cable run 7.5 years ago that I am using with epson 1080ub with no problems. Will this cable work with the 5040ub as well or should I get the UBE version? It is a 25' hdmi cable from monoprice that I ran when I built the house. Not easy to upgrade that cable. Yikes.


I'm using a 7 year old non-certified, 25' Monoprice cable - works great. 24Hz, 4K, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR2. YMMV.


----------



## Cardguy

schmidtwi said:


> I'm using a 7 year old non-certified, 25' Monoprice cable - works great. 24Hz, 4K, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR2. YMMV.


Getting my 5040ube tomorrow so Im working on setting up a Dell SFF PC to use as an HTPC, I have Kodi, and HD Homerun on it so far.


----------



## inspector

sddp said:


> I feel the same, I want both 4K and 3D disc
> 
> 
> I am even willing to pay more if the studios made a package with all of them. Now when a film comes out, it's always a rock and a hard place choosing the 3D version or the 4K. And ironically they both come with Blu Ray, digital copy, and a bunch of other stuff. I just wish for the blockbuster films they came out with combo set with 4K and 3D Blu Ray.



They do! Best Buy is charging you $40 to get 3D/4K/BD and whatever for KONG: SKULL ISLAND...ouch!


I didn't see it in 3D because I wanted to save it for my HT, now I don't know.


----------



## inspector

schmidtwi said:


> I'm using a 7 year old non-certified, 25' Monoprice cable - works great. 24Hz, 4K, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR2. YMMV.



Me too!


My run was from my Epson 9500 to my Onkyo 680 to my Panny 30 with 6 year old HDMI 1.4.


Didn't upgrade the Onkyo, just kept the old HDMI and reconnected it to the Sammy K8500 and another 1.4 to the Onkyo.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

sddp said:


> If you have a lens crafters in your area, you can take the 3D glasses and have them make just the prescription glasses only to fit just inside the Epson 3D glasses and then use double sided 3M tape and cut a very thin layer and place it on the inside of the 3D glasses then place the lens on it. That’s what I did. And whalla…


AWESOME! That's where I get my glasses. AND, I'm due for new glasses. Perfect.


----------



## TheGizzard

schmidtwi said:


> I'm using a 7 year old non-certified, 25' Monoprice cable - works great. 24Hz, 4K, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR2. YMMV.


I have a Monoprice Cabernet Ultra Certified High Speed Active HDMI Cable 45ft Supports Ethernet 3D Audio Return and CL2 Rated works great. 


schmidtwi said:


> I'm using a 7 year old non-certified, 25' Monoprice cable - works great. 24Hz, 4K, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR2. YMMV.



Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## 3DBob

I finally got 3D glasses to test 3D on my new 5040UB. It seems that everyone is having crosstalk issues and that worried me. I researched all the glasses I could find on Amazon, and based on one user's recommendation, I bought the really cheap Samsung glasses. I must say they work perfectly with no crosstalk. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PYEBZ2/

I am coming from an Optoma 131xe DLP, and I will say that DLP 3D is easier on the eyes as it is 144hz, whereas LCD 3D is 120hz. That difference was weird in the beginning, but as my eyes got used to it, I could see the 5040UB had a clearer image that could be watched closer to the screen for more immersion.

To get the best image, you should enter the screen size, use medium 3D brightness, extended hdmi, and frame interpolation with these glasses. Also a -2 3D adjustment gave me the right depth. Apparently, they are darker than other glasses, which could be the reason for no crosstalk. I have not tried other glasses.


----------



## inspector

It's all in the 3D DEPTH...-4 for Jaws 3D on mine.


----------



## panman40

I've had many different 3D displays "TV and Projector" since it was avaliable at home, by altering the 3D depth your basically doing yourself no favours as you might eliminate ghosting from either the left or right image for that scene but it can make the next scene worse. The best setting for 3D depth is default 0 which is true to the 3D on the disc.

Talking of glasses those cheap Samsung ones are not great imo, the lenses are to small, they are flimsy and barely stay straight on your face. Again I have experimented with many brands over the years and my favourites are the Xpand 105lite and the Samsung SSG3100 battery type, these were pretty much samsungs first glasses are are a great fit with quality lenses.

I'm not quite sure why "expanded " HDMI is being used by some ?, this will spoil black levels and tend to wash the image out, Much better to use gamma at +1 instead.

I'm using medium lamp with medium glasses brightness, ghosting varies but I have had a lot worse on other displays. To be fair the epsons 3D is pretty good but will never match ghosting free DLP although other aspects of the image are way better than DLP.


----------



## sddp

panman40 said:


> I've had many different 3D displays "TV and Projector" since it was avaliable at home, by altering the 3D depth your basically doing yourself no favours as you might eliminate ghosting from either the left or right image for that scene but it can make the next scene worse. The best setting for 3D depth is default 0 which is true to the 3D on the disc.
> 
> Talking of glasses those cheap Samsung ones are not great imo, the lenses are to small, they are flimsy and barely stay straight on your face. Again I have experimented with many brands over the years and my favourites are the Xpand 105lite and the Samsung SSG3100 battery type, these were pretty much samsungs first glasses are are a great fit with quality lenses.
> 
> I'm not quite sure why "expanded " HDMI is being used by some ?, this will spoil black levels and tend to wash the image out, Much better to use gamma at +1 instead.
> 
> I'm using medium lamp with medium glasses brightness, ghosting varies but I have had a lot worse on other displays. To be fair the epsons 3D is pretty good but will never match ghosting free DLP although other aspects of the image are way better than DLP.






What a catch 22.


I've had the Mitsubishi DLP 3D TV for almost 10 years, started on a 65, then 73, then 92' before I got the 5040. And had no idea what ghosting was or meant till I watched a 3D movie on the 5040. Yes you get a larger screen and it is brighter, clearer, and a bit more pop out 3D compared to the DLP...but the ghosting issues is a bummer. Playing with settings from movie to movie is frustrating.


I did test out a few 3D glasses and found the Epson brand to be a bit more sharper and less light loss.


----------



## sddp

inspector said:


> They do! Best Buy is charging you $40 to get 3D/4K/BD and whatever for KONG: SKULL ISLAND...ouch!
> 
> 
> I didn't see it in 3D because I wanted to save it for my HT, now I don't know.




WHOA! that's awesome, Thanks for the info, I hope they start doing this for all new releases moving forward.


----------



## 3DBob

Panman40. I use the expanded hdmi to get more dynamic range out of the image. And you are right, it can grey the blacks, but at least, I'm seeing more detail in the shadows this way. I have gamma at -1 when I do this. I will experiment more, though. I totally agree with your statement about DLP. I will look at the Xpand 105s, but since I'm not convinced I want to keep the 5040UB, I went for cheap glasses. I agree, they don't fit the face as I would like.


----------



## john barlow

Snoogleheimer said:


> AWESOME! That's where I get my glasses. AND, I'm due for new glasses. Perfect.


At the risk of being called out for off topic, I'd appreciate if you could PM the price for you upgraded 3D glasses. Cheers.


----------



## inspector

panman40 said:


> I've had many different 3D displays "TV and Projector" since it was avaliable at home, by altering the 3D depth your basically doing yourself no favours as you might eliminate ghosting from either the left or right image for that scene but it can make the next scene worse. The best setting for 3D depth is default 0 which is true to the 3D on the disc.
> 
> Talking of glasses those cheap Samsung ones are not great imo, the lenses are to small, they are flimsy and barely stay straight on your face. Again I have experimented with many brands over the years and my favourites are the Xpand 105lite and the Samsung SSG3100 battery type, these were pretty much samsungs first glasses are are a great fit with quality lenses.
> 
> I'm not quite sure why "expanded " HDMI is being used by some ?, this will spoil black levels and tend to wash the image out, Much better to use gamma at +1 instead.
> 
> I'm using medium lamp with medium glasses brightness, ghosting varies but I have had a lot worse on other displays. To be fair the epsons 3D is pretty good but will never match ghosting free DLP although other aspects of the image are way better than DLP.



That is where you should start! Not all movies, that I have found...are "0." I just put a post-it into each case with the 3D DEPTH setting. Saves me the time doing it all over again. 


Can't wait for ROGUE ONE in 3D...and maybe KONG: SKULL ISLAND!


EDIT: Here's what's funny, as the PJ warms up the 3D DEPTH changes. Maybe the PJ has to be on for a period of time...and then you use 3D DEPTH? Why, my last movie was "1" but as the movie played, "0" was the better setting. 


Hopefully next Wednesday my ISFer will be able to tell me if these are actually problems and how to fix them.


----------



## 3DBob

Here's a little secret for you 3D watchers. Vudu has almost all the new 3D movies out on their site include Rogue One and Doctor Strange. You need to search for 2D/3D and 3D by itself. They will have the 3D bundled and sell it before anyone can get it on Bluray. It usually costs $34.99 for the bundle, and you keep it in your library forever. If you want it months early, they have it. www.vudu.com. I watch almost all of my 3D from them now. Non-new stuff rents for $5.99 HD 3D. Their downloads are bluray quality as I have experienced.


----------



## roland6465

Watched Deadpool on my 88" 16:9 the other night, and experienced no issues with HDR dimness. This was in cinema mode with HDR1 as the color scope with HDMI expanded. Yes, it was darker than Ice Age on DirecTV, which I was kind of watching earlier that day, but HDR1 provided great shadow detail and no color banding or SDE. I'm sure it has to do with the "concentrated" picture on my small screen, but I'm a fan.


----------



## panman40

inspector said:


> That is where you should start! Not all movies, that I have found...are "0." I just put a post-it into each case with the 3D DEPTH setting. Saves me the time doing it all over again.
> 
> 
> Can't wait for ROGUE ONE in 3D...and maybe KONG: SKULL ISLAND!
> 
> 
> EDIT: Here's what's funny, as the PJ warms up the 3D DEPTH changes. Maybe the PJ has to be on for a period of time...and then you use 3D DEPTH? Why, my last movie was "1" but as the movie played, "0" was the better setting.
> 
> 
> Hopefully next Wednesday my ISFer will be able to tell me if these are actually problems and how to fix them.


Nope!, messing with depth per film is a waste of time . If that suits you though it's fine. All my projectors needed a warm up before playing a 3D disc, normally use sky HD for 15 minutes or so 'in the uk' before booting up a 3D blu Ray.


----------



## panman40

3DBob said:


> Panman40. I use the expanded hdmi to get more dynamic range out of the image. And you are right, it can grey the blacks, but at least, I'm seeing more detail in the shadows this way. I have gamma at -1 when I do this. I will experiment more, though. I totally agree with your statement about DLP. I will look at the Xpand 105s, but since I'm not convinced I want to keep the 5040UB, I went for cheap glasses. I agree, they don't fit the face as I would like.


That's fair enough if you like the results, I stick with Auto/limited and gamma 0 or +1. To be honest the best 3D I have had in my home was a Samsung plasma but that was just 59" in size, The Sony hw65es projector I had was pretty good with 3D Infact very good but the Epson just takes the top spot despite the odd 3D motion issue. 

I think at this price a compromise is needed in the grand scheme of things!. 

After around 200 odd 3D titles passing through I still think that Sammys adventures A turtles Tale is reference quality  it was the first 3D bd I tried on the Epson and I was very impressed, due to the wide seperation ghosting was very hard to spot and the overall image was extremely immersive !.


----------



## inspector

panman40 said:


> Nope!, messing with depth per film is a waste of time . If that suits you though it's fine. All my projectors needed a warm up before playing a 3D disc, normally use sky HD for 15 minutes or so 'in the uk' before booting up a 3D blu Ray.



So, what is the purpose of 3D DEPTH, other than "0" for some movies and "-4" for Jaws 3???


Inquiring minds want to know!!! 


And if you're stating something, tell us, not come down on me like I should know this?


We're supposed to help each other...


----------



## panman40

inspector said:


> So, what is the purpose of 3D DEPTH???


It's there as an option the same as any other setting such as colour or brightness, if you like what your seeing with your adjustments it's all good. I was just highliting that 0 default depth is the correct setting.


----------



## 3DBob

inspector said:


> So, what is the purpose of 3D DEPTH???


 It forces the closest objects to move behind the 3D window, so they don't intrude on the window and destroy your 3D perception. Plus it increase depth perception. That said, infinity objects (those farthest in depth--stars are a good example) should always be kept at 2.5" separation to avoid eye turn out and eye strain, ESPECIALLY for kids. Never ever let anyone under 10 watch 3D with too-wide separation--you're asking for trouble. I've seen may children take off their glasses in 3D movie theaters and parents quietly scolding them to put them back on. Kids know when the separation is too much--listen to them people!

Okay, that said, James Cameron said, that objects don't need to be behind the window, and that has caused other directors to ignore the window. And that has caused the need to adjust the depth for those who want a more pure 3D experience. But that dang infinity limit is going to get in the way for many movies. Adjusting your screen size will help avoid that--but not all the time.


----------



## inspector

panman40 said:


> It's there as an option the same as any other setting such as colour or brightness, if you like what your seeing with your adjustments it's all good. I was just highliting that 0 default depth is the correct setting.





0 setting is not the correct setting, it's the beginning of the settings. Plus or minus is what shows...to your eyes...what shows ghosting or not.


I'll learn more on Wednesday and I'll keep all informed.


----------



## panman40

inspector said:


> 0 setting is not the correct setting, it's the beginning of the settings. Plus or minus is what shows...to your eyes...what shows ghosting or not.
> 
> 
> I'll learn more on Wednesday and I'll keep all informed.


That's fine by me, please yourself with your settings , Good luck with the calibration !.


----------



## panman40

3DBob said:


> It forces the closest objects to move behind the 3D window, so they don't intrude on the window and destroy your 3D perception. Plus it increase depth perception. That said, infinity objects (those farthest in depth--stars are a good example) should always be kept at 2.5" separation to avoid eye turn out and eye strain, ESPECIALLY for kids. Never ever let anyone under 10 watch 3D with too-wide separation--you're asking for trouble. I've seen may children take off their glasses in 3D movie theaters and parents quietly scolding them to put them back on. Kids know when the separation is too much--listen to them people!
> 
> Okay, that said, James Cameron said, that objects don't need to be behind the window, and that has caused other directors to ignore the window. And that has caused the need to adjust the depth for those who want a more pure 3D experience. But that dang infinity limit is going to get in the way for many movies. Adjusting your screen size will help avoid that--but not all the time.


I just hope the new Avatar movies are bursting with 3D depth and Pop out, wide seperation does not cause eye strain for me as much as ghosting does with minimal depth seperation in a lot of 3D titles. 

I agree if I had children I would not let them watch 3D unless it was very easy on the eye and until,they were old enough.


----------



## morty343

BRADH said:


> I do use my Samsung 8500 UHD player and it does send 24p with HDR and 4K. I don't have an nvidia.
> 
> It's not really loud just a change in pitch. I held my IPhone a few inches from the front of the projector with the SLP meter app and it read 54db. With 24p or 60p it didn't change peak SLP on the meter from one to the other. I am guessing this normal. It's not loud and it really doesn't bother me. It just sound different. My Samsung SPA900 projector which was a single chip DLP was louder at 60p than at 24p.
> 
> I would like to know if other have noticed the same thing. Again the volume has to be really low. If turned all the way down and switch back and forth between the two it's noticeable.
> 
> Brad
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



I can tell you my new 5040UB is doing the same thing, that is it's making the quiet (but noticeable) 419Hz hum/"coil whine" when 4K enhancement is processing a 60p signal. Running at medium power consumption. (Yes the hum is easily drowned out by audio track but it can be heard, in addition to fan, during quiet passages.) Goes away when 4K enhancement is turned off or when processing 24p. PJ was delivered on 3/30 and it has about 15 hours on it at this point. I updated to the latest firmware and the problem persists.

Not sure if the problem is rare or common, but I'm wondering if I got a lemon. The auto iris also makes the quiet "disk drive" sound when in normal or high speed mode, heard when fast-forwarding through commercials etc.

I won't name the vendor who sold it to me, but I can say I was surprised when it arrived and the outer box had the big smile on the side (if you know what I mean) because that's not the vendor I ordered it from. I also ordered two pairs of the $20 Samsung SSG-3300CR glasses from the seller, they arrived today and they looked like they had been previously opened (although the lens protective film and everything else looked factory original). The rechargeable batteries in both pairs are shot. They blink green like fully charged, but are dead as soon as the USB is unplugged. They do function as 3D glasses when the USB is connected but who wants that.

Anyway, I just wanted to let BradH know he is not alone. I am probably going to exchange this PJ as it's within the 30 day window. The glasses are for sure going back. I'd also be curious if anyone else could hear if their 5040UB makes the humming noise during 4K enhancement. Like I say it's quiet, about the same volume as the fan, and is appx the same frequency as the tone TV stations used to broadcast when they went off the air for the night in the 70s.


----------



## akgolf

I was able to get a demo of the 6040UB paired with a zero edge slate screen .8 gain. I was very impressed and plan on going with that combo. Should I be concerned when using 3D or HDR, should I get something with a higher gain?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

bommai said:


> Is the UBE worth the $250 premium if I have trouble with hdmi? I have a 25' cable run 7.5 years ago that I am using with epson 1080ub with no problems. Will this cable work with the 5040ub as well or should I get the UBE version? It is a 25' hdmi cable from monoprice that I ran when I built the house. Not easy to upgrade that cable. Yikes.


Hi Bommai,
If you cant easily replace the cable, think of the extra $250 UBE as insurance. I have the 9300W (same as 6040UBE). I only send 1080p content over my in wall HDMI cable. All 4K blu-rays I send via wireless. Never had a single problem or wireless drop out with it in the two months I've have the projector. Sync times are just a touch slower than being hardwired.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## bommai

Did you have trouble with 4K discs using the wired hdmi? If wireless hdmi works, why do you still have the wired? Do you connect your sources to the receiver and output the receiver to the wireless module?



whmacs said:


> bommai said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the UBE worth the $250 premium if I have trouble with hdmi? I have a 25' cable run 7.5 years ago that I am using with epson 1080ub with no problems. Will this cable work with the 5040ub as well or should I get the UBE version? It is a 25' hdmi cable from monoprice that I ran when I built the house. Not easy to upgrade that cable. Yikes.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Bommai,
> If you cant easily replace the cable, think of the extra $250 UBE as insurance. I have the 9300W (same as 6040UBE). I only send 1080p content over my in wall HDMI cable. All 4K blu-rays I send via wireless. Never had a single problem or wireless drop out with it in the two months I've have the projector. Sync times are just a touch slower than being hardwired.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen
Click to expand...


----------



## Eric_Connelly

We continue to greatly enjoy our 5040UBE, especially after the 1.09 update. Now we just watch it instead of fiddling with it all the time.

So the next question becomes, how much impact is the screen going to have?

We have one of the inexpensive 120" Silver Screen 4K's from Amazon. 

Totally light controlled basement. At 12 noon its pitch black. We have 2 large windows and a door wall. We built decorative frames around each from floor to the top of the door and mounted blackout curtains inside the frame backwards. Sealed all the edges with caulk and when you close them its total darkness.

90 percent of the time we are watching in that environment. 

Given that, is screen quality still a big issue?


----------



## BRADH

morty343 said:


> I can tell you my new 5040UB is doing the same thing, that is it's making the quiet (but noticeable) 419Hz hum/"coil whine" when 4K enhancement is processing a 60p signal. Running at medium power consumption. (Yes the hum is easily drowned out by audio track but it can be heard, in addition to fan, during quiet passages.) Goes away when 4K enhancement is turned off or when processing 24p. PJ was delivered on 3/30 and it has about 15 hours on it at this point. I updated to the latest firmware and the problem persists.
> 
> Not sure if the problem is rare or common, but I'm wondering if I got a lemon. The auto iris also makes the quiet "disk drive" sound when in normal or high speed mode, heard when fast-forwarding through commercials etc.
> 
> I won't name the vendor who sold it to me, but I can say I was surprised when it arrived and the outer box had the big smile on the side (if you know what I mean) because that's not the vendor I ordered it from. I also ordered two pairs of the $20 Samsung SSG-3300CR glasses from the seller, they arrived today and they looked like they had been previously opened (although the lens protective film and everything else looked factory original). The rechargeable batteries in both pairs are shot. They blink green like fully charged, but are dead as soon as the USB is unplugged. They do function as 3D glasses when the USB is connected but who wants that.
> 
> Anyway, I just wanted to let BradH know he is not alone. I am probably going to exchange this PJ as it's within the 30 day window. The glasses are for sure going back. I'd also be curious if anyone else could hear if their 5040UB makes the humming noise during 4K enhancement. Like I say it's quiet, about the same volume as the fan, and is appx the same frequency as the tone TV stations used to broadcast when they went off the air for the night in the 70s.




Definitely keep me posted if you return it and the humming noise goes away. I have a feeling it may be the nature of the beast. I am in eco mode. 

Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## panman40

morty343 said:


> I can tell you my new 5040UB is doing the same thing, that is it's making the quiet (but noticeable) 419Hz hum/"coil whine" when 4K enhancement is processing a 60p signal. Running at medium power consumption. (Yes the hum is easily drowned out by audio track but it can be heard, in addition to fan, during quiet passages.) Goes away when 4K enhancement is turned off or when processing 24p. PJ was delivered on 3/30 and it has about 15 hours on it at this point. I updated to the latest firmware and the problem persists.
> 
> Not sure if the problem is rare or common, but I'm wondering if I got a lemon. The auto iris also makes the quiet "disk drive" sound when in normal or high speed mode, heard when fast-forwarding through commercials etc.
> 
> I won't name the vendor who sold it to me, but I can say I was surprised when it arrived and the outer box had the big smile on the side (if you know what I mean) because that's not the vendor I ordered it from. I also ordered two pairs of the $20 Samsung SSG-3300CR glasses from the seller, they arrived today and they looked like they had been previously opened (although the lens protective film and everything else looked factory original). The rechargeable batteries in both pairs are shot. They blink green like fully charged, but are dead as soon as the USB is unplugged. They do function as 3D glasses when the USB is connected but who wants that.
> 
> Anyway, I just wanted to let BradH know he is not alone. I am probably going to exchange this PJ as it's within the 30 day window. The glasses are for sure going back. I'd also be curious if anyone else could hear if their 5040UB makes the humming noise during 4K enhancement. Like I say it's quiet, about the same volume as the fan, and is appx the same frequency as the tone TV stations used to broadcast when they went off the air for the night in the 70s.


Yes that's normal on both counts, both my units had the whine with 60hz material, also the auto Iris is to noisy for me to use, during quiet scenes it can be heard like a rapid tapping noise so I just leave it off.


----------



## ken8

Hi guys, I can get a great deal on the Aussie equivalent, the TW-8300 but I just want to check on the 3D performance of this unit. I'm upgrading from an 8100 (5020ub) and the crosstalk on that is terrible

Thanks for your time
Ken


----------



## k3nnis

ken8 said:


> Hi guys, I can get a great deal on the Aussie equivalent, the TW-8300 but I just want to check on the 3D performance of this unit. I'm upgrading from an 8100 (5020ub) and the crosstalk on that is terrible
> 
> Thanks for your time
> Ken




Hi ken,

Can I ask how much in AUD?

Thanks,
Kenn.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ken8

k3nnis said:


> Hi ken,
> 
> Can I ask how much in AUD?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kenn.


About $3500 AUD


----------



## k3nnis

ken8 said:


> About $3500 AUD




Ok thanks  how much more for the 9300? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ken8

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks  how much more for the 9300?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Don't know, not looking at one of them


----------



## chiltonj

Just my opinion, but highly recommend Planet Earth II in 4K, HDR. Really highlights the Epson's capabilities, colors, detail, etc. Incredible footage. Probably the best 4K blu ray I own to date. 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

Have any of you guys ever wondered if the 3D is actually FULL 3D HD on the Epson ?.


----------



## darkangelism

panman40 said:


> Have any of you guys ever wondered if the 3D is actually FULL 3D HD on the Epson ?.


versus what? It looks the same as my panasonic plasma for the most part, I don't think it is outputting lower resolution.


----------



## gene4ht

sddp said:


> If you have a lens crafters in your area, you can take the 3D glasses and have them make just the prescription glasses only to fit just inside the Epson 3D glasses and then use double sided 3M tape and cut a very thin layer and place it on the inside of the 3D glasses then place the lens on it. That’s what I did. And whalla…





john barlow said:


> At the risk of being called out for off topic, I'd appreciate if you could PM the price for you upgraded 3D glasses. Cheers.


That's a very interesting and creative solution! Would you mind PM'ing me the information as well? Thanks in advance!


----------



## akgolf

akgolf said:


> I was able to get a demo of the 6040UB paired with a zero edge slate screen .8 gain. I was very impressed and plan on going with that combo. Should I be concerned when using 3D or HDR, should I get something with a higher gain?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Anyone have any experience with a Slate screen or any screen with .8 gain?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

akgolf said:


> Anyone have any experience with a Slate screen or any screen with .8 gain?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm using Da-lite JKP Affinity .09 gain screen and it's perfect...to me.


----------



## akgolf

inspector said:


> I'm using Da-lite JKP Affinity .09 gain screen and it's perfect...to me.




No issues with HDR or 3D content? Also what size is your Screen?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ChrisRex

twcl said:


> New Xbox One Update is online. 4:2:2 selectable and 4k 10bit Hdr at 24hz marked as green now. Will test tonight.


Hi there. We you able to confirm if this works? Mainly interested if the Netflix app on the updated Xbox will finally play applicable HDR content now (Samurai Gourmet, Chef's Table, etc) in 24hz 4:2:2

Thanks in advance for any info!


----------



## inspector

akgolf said:


> No issues with HDR or 3D content? Also what size is your Screen?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





None what so ever and it's a 110" screen. Just finished watching PACIFIC RIM 3D. Colors were off but that will be rectified on Wednesday when I get a professional calibration (ISFed).


----------



## akgolf

inspector said:


> None what so ever and it's a 110" screen. Just finished watching PACIFIC RIM 3D. Colors were off but that will be rectified on Wednesday when I get a professional calibration (ISFed).




Good to hear. 

Thanks. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Snoogleheimer

john barlow said:


> At the risk of being called out for off topic, I'd appreciate if you could PM the price for you upgraded 3D glasses. Cheers.


Ok, I will.


----------



## panman40

darkangelism said:


> versus what? It looks the same as my panasonic plasma for the most part, I don't think it is outputting lower resolution.


Versus any other 3D display to be honest, Samsung ps59d6900, Sony W905, Sony vpl-hw65es.

I have had my suspicions but watching fantastic beasts yesterday some of it was almost good SD looking, I'm using sharpness at 7 with image enhancement 3. I must admit i don't watch as much 3D as i used to on the Epson.


----------



## whmacs

bommai said:


> Did you have trouble with 4K discs using the wired hdmi? If wireless hdmi works, why do you still have the wired? Do you connect your sources to the receiver and output the receiver to the wireless module?


Hi Bommai,
I use a dvdo duo 1080p video processor. This acts as a switch/scaler so all 1080p content goes through it and is hard wired to the projector via a 15m powered hdmi cable. For 4K sources I use a Panasonic UB900. This is connected directly to the Epson 4K transmitter. I like redundancy. I've had a hdmi cable fail in the wall. Not fun replacing it. Also, no working projector until then. The Epson wireless transmitter gives me an alternative path. I've also read that it has a bit more bandwidth than the hdmi ports.

Both the video processor and UB900 are also connected to my receiver.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## TheGizzard

ChrisRex said:


> Hi there. We you able to confirm if this works? Mainly interested if the Netflix app on the updated Xbox will finally play applicable HDR content now (Samurai Gourmet, Chef's Table, etc) in 24hz 4:2:2
> 
> Thanks in advance for any info!


Also interested in this. Can anyone who has an Xbox One S and Netflix confirm if HDR content works with these settings?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## BRADH

panman40 said:


> Yes that's normal on both counts, both my units had the whine with 60hz material, also the auto Iris is to noisy for me to use, during quiet scenes it can be heard like a rapid tapping noise so I just leave it off.




Thanks. I kind of thought that but wasn't for sure.


Brad


----------



## darkangelism

panman40 said:


> Versus any other 3D display to be honest, Samsung ps59d6900, Sony W905, Sony vpl-hw65es.
> 
> I have had my suspicions but watching fantastic beasts yesterday some of it was almost good SD looking, I'm using sharpness at 7 with image enhancement 3. I must admit i don't watch as much 3D as i used to on the Epson.


Are there specific scenes, probably would be good for a few of us to test it.


----------



## quick2k3

bommai said:


> How much better is the 5040UB compared to the 1080UB. My 1080UB is still working even though I might have to buy a new bulb. The old generic bulb is getting dimmer and dimmer. Should I just buy another cheap bulb and manage with the 1080UB or should I upgrade? Is there another projector from Epson coming out this year? Should I wait for true 4K and HDR?


I upgraded from a Pro Cinema 1080UB to a 5040UB. Without resorting to hyperbole, the 5040 is simply in a different league. Even if you strip the 4K/HDR/Image Enhancement out of the picture and compare BD to BD on the two PJs, the 5040 simply runs circles around the 1080UB. 

You'll be in for a big surprise (and permanent grin) when you first flip on the 5040UB after watching the 1080UP after all these years.


----------



## bommai

quick2k3 said:


> I upgraded from a Pro Cinema 1080UB to a 5040UB. Without resorting to hyperbole, the 5040 is simply in a different league. Even if you strip the 4K/HDR/Image Enhancement out of the picture and compare BD to BD on the two PJs, the 5040 simply runs circles around the 1080UB.
> 
> 
> 
> You'll be in for a big surprise (and permanent grin) when you first flip on the 5040UB after watching the 1080UP after all these years.




Awesome. Looking forward to it. I am still going through some logistics before ordering the 5040UB. Hopefully will have it soon. Also, will I be able to reuse the mount I have for the 1080ub or do I have to buy a new one?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## quick2k3

bommai said:


> Awesome. Looking forward to it. I am still going through some logistics before ordering the 5040UB. Hopefully will have it soon. Also, will I be able to reuse the mount I have for the 1080ub or do I have to buy a new one?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can't remember if I tried using my mount from the 1080UB or not as I was selling my old projector and the accessories. I ended up using a Peerless mount on the 5040UB.

I do know the 5040UB is quite a bit larger than the 1080UB was. I have a side by side pic of them and there is quite a difference.


----------



## bommai

Is Epson ELPGS03 glasses compatible with the 5040UB and are they the best? What other glasses are compatible and perform well and works for people with prescription glasses. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

quick2k3 said:


> I can't remember if I tried using my mount from the 1080UB or not as I was selling my old projector and the accessories. I ended up using a Peerless mount on the 5040UB.
> 
> I do know the 5040UB is quite a bit larger than the 1080UB was. I have a side by side pic of them and there is quite a difference.


The mount will work since the 4 mounting holes are spaced the same distances. The only concerns would be placement, especially if your 1080ub was mounted close to a wall. 

I have a EMP-TW700 which is the European version of the USA based ProCinema 810, which is the same design as the 1080ub. I was able to use the same mount for the TW700 and the 5040ub.


----------



## gene4ht

bommai said:


> Is Epson ELPGS03 glasses compatible with the 5040UB and are they the best? What other glasses are compatible and perform well and works for people with prescription glasses.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


See posts #6898 and #6901...


----------



## Cardguy

*Lan Access ?*

I just received my 5040 this weekend and have not had time to read the manual. I was busy watching movies all weekend lol.
I connected the LAN Network port to my Home network, is there any app that works with the projector over the LAN?
Is the firmware upgradable over the network ? I wonder if Windows 10 recognizes it ?

Thanks


----------



## Samuraijones

TheGizzard said:


> Also interested in this. Can anyone who has an Xbox One S and Netflix confirm if HDR content works with these settings?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk












Latest update for Xbox 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## ChrisRex

Samuraijones said:


> Latest update for Xbox
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Thank you so much for taking the time to post that!


----------



## inspector

bommai, if you need a ceiling mount, I have an extra one from my 6040. I didn't need it and it's sealed and brand new. Just PM/email me for the price and shipping...quite a bit lower that what is on eBay right now.


Inspector


----------



## ChrisRex

Samuraijones said:


> Latest update for Xbox
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Please forgive what may be a stupid question, but is that 4:2:2 you showed for a bluray disk, or Netflix? And is the HDR symbol showing up on valid Netflix shows? I ask because on the nvidia shield, I initially had an issue where the CONNECTion was as you're showing, but Netflix would not show HDr on content it should have. 

Sorry to be a pest :-(


----------



## Doron Davidoff

Hey All
what is the diffarence between HDR1 and HDR2 other than brigthness?
is P3 mode engaged in HDR1? of just in HDR2?


----------



## Evan201

If you haven't seen Planet Earth II 4k UHD Blu ray yet, you're missing out on probably the best experience with this projector IMO from what I have seen yet. 
Full 16:9 ratio. Lights up magnificently. Amazing color. Worth it to run the PJ on high lamp for the good stuff. Thrilled!


----------



## TheGizzard

Samuraijones said:


> Latest update for Xbox
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Great and Thank You! Does this make a Linker unnecessary?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## ken8

Hi guys, I posted earlier about this model's 3D performance. How do you guys find it? I've got a Pacific version of the 5020ub and the crosstalk on that is terrible. I believe they've made improvements in that area

Thanks
Ken


----------



## Samuraijones

TheGizzard said:


> Great and Thank You! Does this make a Linker unnecessary?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Yes

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Samuraijones

ChrisRex said:


> Please forgive what may be a stupid question, but is that 4:2:2 you showed for a bluray disk, or Netflix? And is the HDR symbol showing up on valid Netflix shows? I ask because on the nvidia shield, I initially had an issue where the CONNECTion was as you're showing, but Netflix would not show HDr on content it should have.
> 
> Sorry to be a pest :-(


That was 4k Bluray. I will check Netflix tonight. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

ken8 said:


> Hi guys, I posted earlier about this model's 3D performance. How do you guys find it? I've got a Pacific version of the 5020ub and the crosstalk on that is terrible. I believe they've made improvements in that area
> 
> Thanks
> Ken



I watched Dr. Strange last night and it was ghosting all over the place. Some scenes were perfect, some scenes the foreground portions had ghosting and some scenes the background had it.


I kept toggling between 0, 1, 2, -1, -2, depending on the scene to get it right. My Passive 3D is perfect...in every scene. This is a crap shoot with this projector.


I really hope that after having it calibrated on Wednesday, that all my 3Ds will be at "0".


I've had to put a post-it into each case telling me what number to use, because not all are "0".


Hope that helps.


John


----------



## TheGizzard

Samuraijones said:


> That was 4k Bluray. I will check Netflix tonight.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Ok. I think Netflix is the one we are trying to figure out. Thanks in advance. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## ChrisRex

Samuraijones said:


> That was 4k Bluray. I will check Netflix tonight.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


You are a good man, I swear to God


----------



## dholmes54

TheGizzard said:


> Great and Thank You! Does this make a Linker unnecessary?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Why does the input signal show component, mine shows that also


----------



## seplant

inspector said:


> I watched Dr. Strange last night and it was ghosting all over the place. Some scenes were perfect, some scenes the foreground portions had ghosting and some scenes the background had it.
> 
> 
> I kept toggling between 0, 1, 2, -1, -2, depending on the scene to get it right. My Passive 3D is perfect...in every scene. This is a crap shoot with this projector.
> 
> 
> I really hope that after having it calibrated on Wednesday, that all my 3Ds will be at "0".
> 
> 
> I've had to put a post-it into each case telling me what number to use, because not all are "0".
> 
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> 
> John


3D performance on this projector is hit or miss at best. The same titles look good sometimes and horrible the next. Don't get your hopes up about calibration eliminating the crosstalk you're seeing. Calibration should improve your colors and black levels but there is nothing a calibrator can do to fix crosstalk. Epson needs to fully investigate this issue and come up with a firmware or a hardware fix. The only way this will happen is if everyone here who is seeing these problems contacts Epson to complain. I have had a ticket in on this for weeks and they report no progress. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## jesped2

So I'm thinking on replacing my old Panasonic AT5000E(PTAE7000) with the Epson EH-TW9300(6040ub) but I read that there is currently problems with Motion Interpolation.

I'm in the minority that really like good MI, just how bad is the situation right now in this model? is it not working at all, it works but it's bad, it doesn't work for certain inputs or resolutions or what?


----------



## v8maro

Samuraijones said:


> Yes
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


So it makes the Linker useless? Great. 

Anyone want to buy a used linker? LOL. FML.


----------



## inspector

Thanks for the update seplant. Lets hope that something can be done about the 3D ghosting/crosstalk from Epson. Keep us informed and I'll talk to them this week.


----------



## Don Draper

Ive been stitching back and forth between expanded and normal range. Sooo, with levels adjusted to compensate , overall it seems that ...extended does flatten the image relatively and lightens blacks. Normal crushes blacks, but looks more pleasing and "dynamic" at the expense of shadow detail. Ironic since we are trying to dial in HDR.. Oh FFS. This whole thing reminds me of the project cars force feedback debacle. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## BRADH

Don Draper said:


> Ive been stitching back and forth between expanded and normal range. Sooo, with levels adjusted to compensate , overall it seems that ...extended does flatten the image relatively and lightens blacks. Normal crushes blacks, but looks more pleasing and "dynamic" at the expense of shadow detail. Ironic since we are trying to dial in HDR.. Oh FFS. This whole thing reminds me of the project cars force feedback debacle.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



You will need to recalibrate for expanded. Using DVE or Spears and Munsil Blu-ray its about 10 steps less for brightness than normal HDMI setting in my room. Once you recalibrate you will have the dynamic look etc. 


Brad


----------



## Don Draper

BRADH said:


> You will need to recalibrate for expanded. Using DVE or Spears and Munsil Blu-ray its about 10 steps less for brightness than normal HDMI setting in my room. Once you recalibrate you will have the dynamic look etc.
> 
> 
> Brad


I mentioned doing that in post.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## BRADH

Don Draper said:


> I mentioned doing that in post.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk




Sorry I miss read that in your post. You didn't mention if you where using Super white or not. With both my Oppo 95 and Samsung 8500 UHD players I have to use expanded and super white off in order to pass blacker than black and whiter than white. 


Brad


----------



## seplant

jesped2 said:


> So I'm thinking on replacing my old Panasonic AT5000E(PTAE7000) with the Epson EH-TW9300(6040ub) but I read that there is currently problems with Motion Interpolation.
> 
> I'm in the minority that really like good MI, just how bad is the situation right now in this model? is it not working at all, it works but it's bad, it doesn't work for certain inputs or resolutions or what?


I too am a fan of frame interpolation (FI) if it is done well. I have FI disabled on my 6040. It works okay on scenes with minimal movement if on the low setting, but if there is any action, the stuttering and tearing are way too distracting for me. If it's any consolation, FI performance on this projector is no worse than it was on the 6010. Plus the 5040/6040 can do FI with 3D content where the 6010 could not. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Draper

BRADH said:


> Sorry I miss read that in your post. You didn't mention if you where using Super white or not. With both my Oppo 95 and Samsung 8500 UHD players I have to use expanded and super white off in order to pass blacker than black and whiter than white.
> 
> 
> Brad


Im able to pass both with super white off for both scenarios. Also dve cannot be used to calibrate for HDR since the encoding on those discs are SDR. Also I'm using the Philips, I had the samsung for a bit but felt dynamic range was narrower than the Philips. It did handle panning better though.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## BRADH

Don Draper said:


> Im able to pass both with super white off for both scenarios. Also dve cannot be used to calibrate for HDR since the encoding on those discs are SDR. Also I'm using the Philips, I had the samsung for a bit but felt dynamic range was narrower than the Philips. It did handle panning better though.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Correct on HDR as far as I know there is no current calibration disc available. This looks like it could be the first disc to market for HDR. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...r-masciola-s-hdr-10-uhd-test-patterns-27.html
I would have to look again too see which it was not pass on normal for me, maybe it was BTB. I know with expanded I can pass both.


----------



## Samuraijones

ChrisRex said:


> You are a good man, I swear to God


Looks like Netflix is only UHD 4k on Xbox One S for now. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## TheGizzard

Samuraijones said:


> Looks like Netflix is only UHD 4k on Xbox One S for now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Do you mind sharing what projector info shows on a show like Iron Fist?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Samuraijones

TheGizzard said:


> Do you mind sharing what projector info shows on a show like Iron Fist?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Yeah i will later

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## TheGizzard

Thanks bud. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

Samuraijones said:


> Looks like Netflix is only UHD 4k on Xbox One S for now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk




So no HDR yet...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ken8

inspector said:


> I watched Dr. Strange last night and it was ghosting all over the place. Some scenes were perfect, some scenes the foreground portions had ghosting and some scenes the background had it.
> 
> John


Thanks John, much appreciated. Sounds exactly the same as Dr Strange on the 5020. That's a deal breaker for me. Funnily enough I had a look at one of Epson's lesser models and the 3D on that was perfect


----------



## spirithockey79

BRADH said:


> Sorry I miss read that in your post. You didn't mention if you where using Super white or not. With both my Oppo 95 and Samsung 8500 UHD players I have to use expanded and super white off in order to pass blacker than black and whiter than white.
> 
> 
> Brad




Can you use Super White when also using expanded? I didn't think you could. When you choose to turn on Super White it grays out the HDMI Video option, so you can't select Auto, Normal, or Expanded. My assumption was that it defaults to Normal cause the picture does get darker and you lose the shadow detail. My calibrator told me that you need to use Expanded to get Blacker than Black.

FWIW, on HDR I'm using Expanded with Bright Cinema and have knocked down my gamma to -1 to get a bit darker picture. I used to prefer the darker picture with super white but I'm starting to prefer the better shadow detail.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## BRADH

I just check and super white is available in expanded. I have it off. Iam having a friend who calibrates come and calibrate mine soon. He said use expanded also. 

I had the Samsung SP-A 900 for years and it had great shadow detail. The 6040 does a good job but I bet after calibrating it will be really good. Especially with correct gamma setting. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Samuraijones

TheGizzard said:


> Do you mind sharing what projector info shows on a show like Iron Fist?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk












Here you go

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## TheGizzard

Samuraijones said:


> Here you go
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Thanks. It looks like 24hz didnt take either. 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Draper

ken8 said:


> Thanks John, much appreciated. Sounds exactly the same as Dr Strange on the 5020. That's a deal breaker for me. Funnily enough I had a look at one of Epson's lesser models and the 3D on that was perfect


I have zero issues with the 5010 and 3D. I also have quite an expansive library , so to hear all the x talk issues and the fact my 5010 glasses don't work disappointing. Are folks having issues with epson branded glasses?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## ChrisRex

TheGizzard said:


> Thanks. It looks like 24hz didnt take either.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


Yeah. Damnit


----------



## Don Draper

spirithockey79 said:


> Can you use Super White when also using expanded? I didn't think you could. When you choose to turn on Super White it grays out the HDMI Video option, so you can't select Auto, Normal, or Expanded. My assumption was that it defaults to Normal cause the picture does get darker and you lose the shadow detail. My calibrator told me that you need to use Expanded to get Blacker than Black.
> 
> FWIW, on HDR I'm using Expanded with Bright Cinema and have knocked down my gamma to -1 to get a bit darker picture. I used to prefer the darker picture with super white but I'm starting to prefer the better shadow detail.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I get it both ways. Its the source that ultimately determines what you "need" to use. When you say "darker" are you referring to blacker blacks?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

My friend has a 5010 and has ZERO issues too! We are the unlucky ones with crappy 3D!!! I tried my friends glasses and it still showed ghosting. Now that I know about 3D DEPTH, maybe they did work the first time I tried them. 


I'm going to stop by tomorrow and pick them up and try them again...before I get the sucker ISFed!


----------



## seplant

ken8 said:


> Thanks John, much appreciated. Sounds exactly the same as Dr Strange on the 5020. That's a deal breaker for me. Funnily enough I had a look at one of Epson's lesser models and the 3D on that was perfect


I wouldn't conclude from one viewing on that lesser model that it is always perfect. There are times when the 3D is perfect on my 6040. The problem is that 3D performance seems to vary, even on the same titles when viewed at different times. Someone posted earlier that the projector needs to warm up before viewing 3D. I haven't tried that yet, but at this point I'm willing to try anything!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## ken8

seplant said:


> I wouldn't conclude from one viewing on that lesser model that it is always perfect. There are times when the 3D is perfect on my 6040. The problem is that 3D performance seems to vary, even on the same titles when viewed at different times. Someone posted earlier that the projector needs to warm up before viewing 3D. I haven't tried that yet, but at this point I'm willing to try anything!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


I purchased a TW6600 online that had a focus problem so returned it for a refund. Before I did I ran through all the problematic 3D titles I had and they left the 5020 for dead, zero crosstalk and the best 3D I've seen on an LCD projector. Sadly in 2D the black levels and shadow detail were hopeless compared to my 5020 so lucky to dodge a bullet there!

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the 5040ub a reflective LCD system similar to LCOS whereas the 6600 still employs the traditional method but has improved crosstalk cancelling


----------



## jladner

inspector said:


> I watched Dr. Strange last night and it was ghosting all over the place. Some scenes were perfect, some scenes the foreground portions had ghosting and some scenes the background had it.
> 
> I kept toggling between 0, 1, 2, -1, -2, depending on the scene to get it right. My Passive 3D is perfect...in every scene. This is a crap shoot with this projector.
> John


I have watched quite a few 3D movies on my 5040ub and I must say that Dr. Strange was the worst by far for excessive crosstalk - unwatchable in places. My wife was getting annoyed at my constant fiddling with the 3D depth during the movie. However, I watched Fantastic Beasts and it had very little crosstalk - a lot of it was actually crosstalk-free. 

When I attempt to dial in the 3D depth it is as if it is only focusing on a certain slice of the depth - I can get the foreground crosstalk free but the middle and deep areas get worse and visa versa. I hope this is a software issue and they can fix it. I will be calling Epson..


----------



## inspector

Funny you should mention your wife. Mine just sat there and said nothing. Then again, I couldn't see her eyes everytime I brought up the 3D DEPTH on the screen.


I'm going to call Epson today and see what they say.


----------



## sddp

seplant said:


> I wouldn't conclude from one viewing on that lesser model that it is always perfect. There are times when the 3D is perfect on my 6040. The problem is that 3D performance seems to vary, even on the same titles when viewed at different times. Someone posted earlier that the projector needs to warm up before viewing 3D. I haven't tried that yet, but at this point I'm willing to try anything!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk




How much warm up time are we talking about? 5 min? 30 min?


----------



## panman40

sddp said:


> How much warm up time are we talking about? 5 min? 30 min?


I give it 15 minutes before viewing 3D. I can't stress enough how futile it is constantly adjusting 3D depth as a lot of owners are, it may fix one scene in a film but will make the next worse. Default 0 is the correct setting, any ghosting is the fault of the display.


----------



## Sundodger

Samuraijones said:


> Looks like Netflix is only UHD 4k on Xbox One S for now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Has anyone by chance tested the Vudu app on XB1S to see if you can view UltraViolet downloads in HDR?

So to summarize for XB1S and 5040UB (wired connection):
- Plays discs that are 4k/UHD with HDR
- Streams 4k/UHD through Netflix (and presumably Amazon), but with no HDR
- Streams UltraViolet through Vudu??


----------



## JackOften

+1 with 3D being better on my earlier/worse projector (3020). 

That being said, i'm not trading the 5040 in anytime soon, 3D really doesn't do much for me... and it is nearly impossible to have a few drinks and watch 3D at the same time without getting a severe headache.


----------



## panman40

JackOften said:


> +1 with 3D being better on my earlier/worse projector (3020).
> 
> That being said, i'm not trading the 5040 in anytime soon, 3D really doesn't do much for me... and it is nearly impossible to have a few drinks and watch 3D at the same time without getting a severe headache.


I quite often have a few drinks whilst viewing 3D, and 2D and DVD


----------



## 3DBob

For those of you constantly worried about how long to let the display warm up. Reading the LCD Panel Alignment instructions (page 78 of User Guide), it says to let the projector warm up for 10-15 minutes. So you can take that to the bank for any adjustments you make--including 3D. If the panels need 10-15 minutes to align properly, you can bet that 3D alignment needs 10-15 minutes.


----------



## Craig Peer

3DBob said:


> For those of you constantly worried about how long to let the display warm up. Reading the LCD Panel Alignment instructions (page 78 of User Guide), it says to let the projector warm up for 10-15 minutes. So you can take that to the bank for any adjustments you make--including 3D. If the panels need 10-15 minutes to align properly, you can bet that 3D alignment needs 10-15 minutes.


Many projectors need 30+ minutes of warming up before an extensive calibration is done, so 10 - 15 minutes seems reasonable. 

Just FYI, Epson has permanently dropped the price of the 5040UB to $ 2699.99 !


----------



## ayrton

*3D on UBe*

Any of you guys/girls using a UBe (Wireless) with 3D? 

I've got an Oppo 93 & 203 with cables that have passed 3D to my Panny Plasma. My "Info" menu shows ...... on 3D format. Both players set to output 3D..

Any help appreciated..


----------



## spirithockey79

BRADH said:


> I just check and super white is available in expanded. I have it off. Iam having a friend who calibrates come and calibrate mine soon. He said use expanded also.
> 
> I had the Samsung SP-A 900 for years and it had great shadow detail. The 6040 does a good job but I bet after calibrating it will be really good. Especially with correct gamma setting.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




Understood about being able to toggle the super white setting on/off when using Expanded, but when you do turn super white on, the HDMI Video setting is then grayed out. You can't select anything. Also the picture turns much darker. I get that you then need to recalibrate the brightness and decrease quite a bit, but the shadow detail isn't as good as with Expanded being specifically set. So my assumption was that by turning super white on it was actually defaulting to an auto or normal HDMI Video setting. This assumption could be completely wrong but losing that shadow detail as compared to when super white is off and Expanded is set is pretty noticeable IMO.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Don Draper said:


> I get it both ways. Its the source that ultimately determines what you "need" to use. When you say "darker" are you referring to blacker blacks?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk




I'll admit I'm a bit out of my element when talking about HDMI Video settings, blacker than black, etc. I just know what a calibrator tells me or what I'm able to calibrate with a DVE or S&M disc. Going off memory, with Auto/Normal on (maybe even super white on, can't recall) I wasn't seeing all the black bars on the brightness test. Switching to Expanded gave me all the black bars. So I created 2 memories for an Expanded calibration and then one for Normal/Super White. While the Expanded had a much lower brightness setting (like low 30's) the picture wasn't as dark as the normal/super white setting but the shadow detail was better. 

So, if Expanded gives me blacker than black (I'm guessing that's the case if I can see all the black bars) then why is the picture not as dark as it is with Normal/Super White on? I've tried other changes with Expanded such as reducing gamma, closing the manual iris more but the Normal/Super White picture still looks like it is "more black", but with poorer shadow detail. I would love for someone to tell me that I doing something completely wrong so I can set it up the right way! 

BTW, I'm using an Oppo 203


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Had my 6040 ISFed today and yes, 3D ghosting is inherent to the 6040. The only way it can be fixed is thru some type of repair thru Epson, whatever that will entail. Our only hope is to notify Epson that we want a fix...now!


There was a war between passive and active and Epson chose wrong. There is no ghosting in the most expensive Epson projector though.


I would put up the setting he did, but it would do no good because he uses a $15K lab analyser plus another small box connected to the Sammy player and calMAN program to calibrate my set up. This analyser combines what size screen, gain and which type to do the calibration.


All calibrations were done for CINEMA mode. For 3D you could use 3D BRIGHT, and 4K BRIGHT for more shine. The settings will still be for CINEMA. 


All 5 discs (UHDBD, BD, 3D BD, 2D/3D BD, DVD) now look beautiful.


Oh yeah, clipped blacks and whites are also inherent to this player.


----------



## k3nnis

inspector said:


> Had my 6040 ISFed today and yes, 3D ghosting is inherent to the 6040. The only way it can be fixed is thru some type of repair thru Epson, whatever that will entail. Our only hope is to notify Epson that we want a fix...now!
> 
> 
> There was a war between passive and active and Epson chose wrong. There is no ghosting in the most expensive Epson projector though.
> 
> 
> I would put up the setting he did, but it would do no good because he uses a $15K lab analyser plus another small box connected to the Sammy player and calMAN program to calibrate my set up. This analyser combines what size screen, gain and which type to do the calibration.
> 
> 
> All calibrations were done for CINEMA mode. For 3D you could use 3D BRIGHT, and 4K BRIGHT for more shine. The settings will still be for CINEMA.
> 
> 
> All 5 discs (UHDBD, BD, 3D BD, 2D/3D BD, DVD) now look beautiful.




Epsons most expensive projector has no ghosting for 3D? Are you referring to the LS10000?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

That's the one.


----------



## k3nnis

inspector said:


> That's the one.




Ok I guess you compared the ls10000 side by side to the 6040? It's around double the price though 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

If you're being sarcastic and I don't appreciate it. My calibrator had been doing this for 30 years and trained with the big boys, Joe Kane, etc., when they actually started doing calibrating TVs.


He just ISFed one last week and yes he should know.


----------



## k3nnis

Hi I'm not being sarcastic. Sorry if it sounded that way. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

No problem. Tried watching ROGUE ONE 3D tonight and had to stop because the ghosting was the worst I have seen.


----------



## k3nnis

Is it a hardware issue or firmware for the Epson 6040 with 3D?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

If it's a firmware, perfect, hardware...there goes my calibration.


----------



## ken8

inspector said:


> No problem. Tried watching ROGUE ONE 3D tonight and had to stop because the ghosting was the worst I have seen.


This is doing my head in! I just arranged a demo of the 6040ub, took along the 3D discs I've been having issues with and the picture was great.

A couple of things, and these may be a bit of a stretch. It was already running when I got there and being downunder we run 240v AC power. Would that make any difference? That's the stretch I was speaking of.....

Also, what's the difference between the 5040 & the 6040 because I can get a 5040 at a real good price


----------



## inspector

Only the extra items you get when you purchase the 6040. Cable cover (fits to the rear of the PJ) extra year warranty, spare lamp, ceiling mount and it's black.


----------



## seplant

k3nnis said:


> Is it a hardware issue or firmware for the Epson 6040 with 3D?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have an open incident with Epson on this and have asked that question directly. No response so far. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## dholmes54

I'm not a big fan of 3d except maybe imax 3d,but I've seen crosstalk and ghosting at commercial theaters also,I've not tried 3d on my Epson yet.


----------



## jladner

seplant said:


> I have an open incident with Epson on this and have asked that question directly. No response so far.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


I also have an open ticket on the crosstalk issue. I'll let you know what they say.


----------



## Sundodger

bigabit said:


> I get HDR from Amazon but have never been able to get the Netflix app to even show the HDR badge on the listings. It makes me sad. But I don't think it has anything to do with the Epson. More likely a Roku or Netflix bug.
> 
> 4k SDR looks amazing at least.


Have you tried redeeming a 4k/UHD HDR movie with a media code using a Vudu or other digital download app on your Roku?


----------



## sddp

Valleyboy said:


> A question for those who have been experimenting with this projector: is there much difference between a standard blu ray being played on standard blu ray player vs a standard blu ray upconverted to 4K on a UHD player? I'm just trying to decide whether to ask for a Phillips 4K player for Christmas. I honestly don't see myself buying a lot of UHD discs, so I would mostly just be playing my existing blu rays on it. Thank you in advance for any opinions on this subject.




I personally would buy 4K movies.


Here's the logic. First of all, all 4K disc come with a Blu Ray(and a bunch of other stuff like ultra violet, etc)
2) if you're paying lets say $22 for a new release, the 4K is usually about $29. Mine as well get the 4K for a little more


The main reason. 4K will become the standard only one day. not too far ahead. Just like DVD took over VHS, and just like BR took over DVD. the same thing will happen
With that being said, in the near future 4K will be main stream not just on physical media, but also the TV and projectors. Go to best buy and you can barely find a 1080P tv




my 2 cents


----------



## sddp

inspector said:


> No problem. Tried watching ROGUE ONE 3D tonight and had to stop because the ghosting was the worst I have seen.




NO!!!!


3D was the main reason I bought this unit. I first saw it at Magnolia and brought my own 3D glasses and Transformers 3 in IMAX 3D and they played it and my jaw dropped. And had never had a projector before and figured a PJ would yield genuine 3D like in the theaters compared to my 92 Mitsubishi 3D (which had 0 cross talk and 0 ghosting)


I haven't seen Rogue One yet, because I specifically wanted to get it in 3D. And now you tell me this?


PS: my "NO" picture the scene of NOOOOOOO from Steve Carell from Season 5, Episode 9 of NBC sitcom series "The Office"


----------



## seplant

sddp said:


> NO!!!!
> 
> 
> 3D was the main reason I bought this unit. I first saw it at Magnolia and brought my own 3D glasses and Transformers 3 in IMAX 3D and they played it and my jaw dropped. And had never had a projector before and figured a PJ would yield genuine 3D like in the theaters compared to my 92 Mitsubishi 3D (which had 0 cross talk and 0 ghosting)
> 
> 
> I haven't seen Rogue One yet, because I specifically wanted to get it in 3D. And now you tell me this?
> 
> 
> PS: my "NO" picture the scene of NOOOOOOO from Steve Carell from Season 5, Episode 9 of NBC sitcom series "The Office"


There is only one way to get the 3D performance issues resolved - - contact Epson and demand they investigate! Go to their support website and send an email from there. It will generate an incident number and you'll then get an email as a record of your complaint. If enough owners complain they will have to do something to correct this design defect. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## sddp

seplant said:


> There is only one way to get the 3D performance issues resolved - - contact Epson and demand they investigate! Go to their support website and send an email from there. It will generate an incident number and you'll then get an email as a record of your complaint. If enough owners complain they will have to do something to correct this design defect.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk





From this point on, NO ONE should mention anything about 3D not working untill they follow you're protocol.
I have invested heavily in 3D content. Only buy 3D (except for the very few titles that are not made in 3D then I just get the 4K). And the regular BR. I've re-purchased again in 3D. And the ones that are not in 3D or 4K, I use my 3D-Bee unit that converts 2D-3D. Which does a far superior conversion that any TV/PJ that up converts, nearly close if not better than the 3D discs.


----------



## jsrdlr

sddp said:


> NO!!!!
> 
> 
> 3D was the main reason I bought this unit. I first saw it at Magnolia and brought my own 3D glasses and Transformers 3 in IMAX 3D and they played it and my jaw dropped. And had never had a projector before and figured a PJ would yield genuine 3D like in the theaters compared to my 92 Mitsubishi 3D (which had 0 cross talk and 0 ghosting)
> 
> 
> I haven't seen Rogue One yet, because I specifically wanted to get it in 3D. And now you tell me this?
> 
> 
> PS: my "NO" picture the scene of NOOOOOOO from Steve Carell from Season 5, Episode 9 of NBC sitcom series "The Office"


So, I just ran up and threw in the 3D of Rogue One I bought yesterday. Yep, looks like crap. I played with the depth settings to no avail. Like someone mentioned, what's good in one view won't necessarily look good in the next. I do have the cheap $10/pair Samsung glasses and no others to test.

I will say Avatar looked very good to me. Rogue One, not so much. I'll be opening a ticket with Epson.


----------



## jladner

inspector said:


> Tried watching ROGUE ONE 3D tonight and had to stop because the ghosting was the worst I have seen.


Just popped in Rogue One 3D ....Horrible.. unwatchable.. I thought, this must be a bad disc so I played it on my Samsung plasma...Perfect...


I got a reply from my Epson ticket on this issue:

"Epson is looking to have this resolved. In the mean time, can you set the 3D depth to zero to see if that helps."

The more people that send in support tickets to Epson the better.

BTW, zero depth dosen't help..


----------



## 3DBob

Rouge One might be too bright. If I do 3D bright I get a lot of crosstalk. If I choose medium with 10 points of +contrast, that works great so far. Try 3D low brightness with more contrast and see if that works.


----------



## inspector

That's the bull**** we have to put up with! Why does the 5010 play 3D perfect and ours play ****TY!!!


Remember, if they come up with a fix, if you've had your PJ ISFed, it wipes out everything if the fix is done physically. 


Hopefully a FW will do the trick. This **** ain't rocket science...is it?


I refuse to watch 3D on my 65 incher...that's why I bought the EPSON 6040...I want big!!!!


----------



## Geraldius

ayrton said:


> Any of you guys/girls using a UBe (Wireless) with 3D?
> 
> I've got an Oppo 93 & 203 with cables that have passed 3D to my Panny Plasma. My "Info" menu shows ...... on 3D format. Both players set to output 3D..
> 
> Any help appreciated..


3D over wireless is working fine for me with either my old Sony BDP-BX58 and the new UBP-X800.
Sure you got the correct 3D disk inserted? Is 3D mode set to auto? If so the other settings are greyed out.


----------



## inspector

Okay all, here is what I've been told from Epson...I'm going to start a new thread to tell Epson that the 6040 has a inherent 3D crosstalk/ghosting problem.


YOU HAVE TO CALL for them to be aware of the problem. As of right now, I'm the first that has reported it.


Here is the number and the guys name:


Cortney


562-981 3840 (San Pedro, CA number)


This has to be our route to get our projectors fixed!!!


Inspector (John)


----------



## ken8

inspector said:


> Only the extra items you get when you purchase the 6040. Cable cover (fits to the rear of the PJ) extra year warranty, spare lamp, ceiling mount and it's black.


Thanks. 

I'm at a loss re the 3D crosstalk issues. The 6040 I saw yesterday using the problematic 3DBDs I have and it was as good as you can expect from an LCD projector. Again, I'm downunder so the only thing I can think of was that the demo unit didn't have glasses so I had to bring my own Epson branded ones from my older unit. 

Or could their be differences with voltages and maybe even different FW down here?

It's puzzling me


----------



## aaranddeeman

jsrdlr said:


> I will say Avatar looked very good to me. Rogue One, not so much. I'll be opening a ticket with Epson.


Just curious. If Avatar looked very good, but not Rogue One. How is that Epson's fault.
It's like saying Mercedes runs smooth, but BMW does not, the road needs to be fixed.


----------



## jsil

Get Happy Feet 2 that will be a good disc to test for ghosting in 3D. I saw that on my Epson 5020ub as soon as the movie started playing.


----------



## seplant

inspector said:


> Okay all, here is what I've been told from Epson...I'm going to start a new thread to tell Epson that the 6040 has a inherent 3D crosstalk/ghosting problem.
> 
> 
> YOU HAVE TO CALL for them to be aware of the problem. As of right now, I'm the first that has reported it.
> 
> 
> Here is the number and the guys name:
> 
> 
> Cortney
> 
> 
> 562-981 3840 (San Pedro, CA number)
> 
> 
> This has to be our route to get our projectors fixed!!!
> 
> 
> Inspector (John)


Uh, maybe you're the first to talk to Cortney, but you're definitely not the first to call. I have spoken with them several times and have several tickets open. But I'll call Cortney also and tell him my ticket numbers. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## Don Draper

inspector said:


> Oh yeah, clipped blacks and whites are also inherent to this player.


I mentioned in a recent post the dynamic range was narrower than the Philips. Good to see i didn't imagine it.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

aaranddeeman said:


> Just curious. If Avatar looked very good, but not Rogue One. How is that Epson's fault.
> It's like saying Mercedes runs smooth, but BMW does not, the road needs to be fixed.


As has been stated previously, 3D performance varies from viewing to viewing, even on the same disk. I had watched parts of Avatar previously and it looked fine. I tried it again at a different time and there was crosstalk. There appears to be a latent defect in this design. The rep I've been working through said this has been escalated to their engineers, but that was weeks ago and just this week they reported "no progress", but they said they are able to reproduce the issue. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## inspector

We have keep talking to these people to get our message out...3D SUCKS! It's like my Corvette, GM refused to acknowledge the problem until we unindated them with evidence.


All we can do is try!!!


----------



## Don Draper

aaranddeeman said:


> Just curious. If Avatar looked very good, but not Rogue One. How is that Epson's fault.
> It's like saying Mercedes runs smooth, but BMW does not, the road needs to be fixed.


Not all 3D encodes/tecqniques are the same . Its like some hdtvs do great with both hd and sd , but others are crap at sd and great at hd only. So it could be the epson handles some better than others.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

Don Draper said:


> Not all 3D encodes/tecqniques are the same . Its like some hdtvs do great with both hd and sd , but others are crap at sd and great at hd only. So it could be the epson handles some better than others.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Ah. Okay..


----------



## rocklee

inspector said:


> We have keep talking to these people to get our message out...3D SUCKS! It's like my Corvette, GM refused to acknowledge the problem until we unindated them with evidence.
> 
> 
> All we can do is try!!!


Well, can you show some evidence that the 3D sucks?


----------



## ken8

rocklee said:


> Well, can you show some evidence that the 3D sucks?


I'm starting to wonder if this problem is a USA one. From a UK review of the 9300 (6040ub)

*3D comparison*

For the 3D evaluation, we only looked at the the Epson EH-TW9300 since we personally own the Epson EH-LS10000 and know its 3D performance by heart. Both Sammy and Life of Pi 3D Blu-ray were used to get an idea of the 3D that the Epson EH-TW9300 can provide.
Well, let’s keep it short: this is simply the best 3D we have ever seen! Why? Because it was bright on our 2m50 gain 1 screen, very bright even. Also because it did not suffer from any flickering leaving you with a headache after 5min of the 3D movie. In addition there was virtually no ghosting! The depth of the picture and the pop-outs were amazing.

http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/

Like I said earlier, I'm downunder and saw a 9300 yesterday and the 3D was as stated above


----------



## jsrdlr

aaranddeeman said:


> Just curious. If Avatar looked very good, but not Rogue One. How is that Epson's fault.
> 
> It's like saying Mercedes runs smooth, but BMW does not, the road needs to be fixed.




I don't think that's a good analogy and I have no way of knowing if it is in fact Epson's fault. 

A better analogy is a soda dispenser. Coke comes out great, Pepsi comes out messed up. I call the soda dispenser company first as they're most likely to be able to fix it. 

Epson says it supports 3D. Pretty sure in their marketing material somewhere they say it does great 3D. If it's simply that Rogue One has a different format then perhaps Epson can fix it. For sure I can't call Disney and ask them if they could send me a disc that plays well on a 6040 . 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Don Draper

aaranddeeman said:


> Ah. Okay..


Also avatar is a benchmark title, it should be pretty hard to jack that one up.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## akgolf

I'm still about ten months from getting my system setup, but have selected the 6040UB for the theater. Hopefully this is fixed by then because I have a lot of 3D titles. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ken8

Further to the above article I linked to here...
http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/

To achieve these results, we used the Epson EH-TW9300 on bright lamp mode, combined with the “Cinema” color mode. Also, we reduced the glasses 3D brightness to the lowest level to eliminate any residual ghosting.
The only drawback was the motion fluidity that required to activate the frame interpolation on high to keep the motion fluid.
Why do we find the Epson EH-TW9300 better than the Epson EH-LS10000? Simple. It is way brighter and shows less ghosting thanks to the option of reducing the 3D glasses brightness.

It should be noted that I checked the settings on the demo model yesterday and they weren't like that. This is driving me nuts!


----------



## rocklee

ken8 said:


> I'm starting to wonder if this problem is a USA one.
> Like I said earlier, I'm downunder and saw a 9300 yesterday and the 3D was as stated above


That's what I thought. You think that after over 200 pages on this thread that there would be far more reports about this.


----------



## inspector

Well. like I said, there were 2 formats, Active and Passive and Epson chose the wrong one.


Now, with their best consumer model...it's a FAIL. 


You can't have "some" movies look good and "others" not. They should "all" look good!!!


Again, I didn't spend $4000 to watch UHD that's not UHD, but at least watch "good" 3D, not sometime good 3D!!!


Contact Epson to fix our problem!!!


Check out my new thread on this in this section!!!


----------



## seplant

rocklee said:


> That's what I thought. You think that after over 200 pages on this thread that there would be far more reports about this.


I've been reading this thread since it started. There are numerous reports of 3D ghosting interspersed throughout. This is not a new issue. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## panman40

inspector said:


> Well. like I said, there were 2 formats, Active and Passive and Epson chose the wrong one.
> 
> 
> Now, with their best consumer model...it's a FAIL.
> 
> 
> You can't have "some" movies look good and "others" not. They should "all" look good!!!
> 
> 
> Again, I didn't spend $4000 to watch UHD that's not UHD, but at least watch "good" 3D, not sometime good 3D!!!
> 
> 
> Contact Epson to fix our problem!!!
> 
> 
> Check out my new thread on this in this section!!!


I'm a little confused with how your talking about this problem, it's not epsons fault that there are good 3D titles and poor ones. If your actually meaning crosstalk it might make it clearer if you say that instead of referring to it as 'crap' etc. 

I do see crosstalk at times and if using 3D glasses brightness on bright it does become more of a problem, from what your describing though I think it would be worth viewing another unit in a store if you can with some discs you know show crosstalk as your unit sounds particularly bad or even faulty.


----------



## Viche

Eric_Connelly said:


> We continue to greatly enjoy our 5040UBE, especially after the 1.09 update. Now we just watch it instead of fiddling with it all the time.
> 
> So the next question becomes, how much impact is the screen going to have?
> 
> We have one of the inexpensive 120" Silver Screen 4K's from Amazon.
> 
> Totally light controlled basement. At 12 noon its pitch black. We have 2 large windows and a door wall. We built decorative frames around each from floor to the top of the door and mounted blackout curtains inside the frame backwards. Sealed all the edges with caulk and when you close them its total darkness.
> 
> 90 percent of the time we are watching in that environment.
> 
> Given that, is screen quality still a big issue?


Sounds neat. Can you share a picture of that?


----------



## ken8

seplant said:


> I have watched a few 3D movies on my 6040, and I noticed cross talk on only one so far: Edge of Tomorrow. Certain scenes in this film had it really bad. I could go back to the same scenes and see the cross talk was still there. However, a couple of days later I tried that film again, and there was very little cross talk in those scenes where it was terrible previously, so I'm not quite sure what was going on with that one.


I just had a demo of a 6040 and that title was pretty much spot on. All the 3D titles I saw on the demo model was as good as you could hope to get from an LCD projector, and I took titles that have given me grief on my 5020. The only thing I can think of is that I'm downunder on 240v AC, I had to bring my Epson glasses from the 5020 and the projector was running when I got there. It's got me beat

I want to get one but the reports of hit or miss 3D here is driving me nuts!


----------



## ken8

inspector said:


> Check out my new thread on this in this section!!!


Where is that thread?


----------



## Jerry Bruckheimer Fan

I just ordered my 5040UB. Pairing it with a Stewart Cima Neve 138 inch diagonal 2.35:1 screen. Now I just need to find the right ceiling mount.


----------



## dholmes54

Jerry Bruckheimer Fan said:


> I just ordered my 5040UB. Pairing it with a Stewart Cima Neve 138 inch diagonal 2.35:1 screen. Now I just need to find the right ceiling mount.


Get a Chief mount,the kind that came with the 6040,they are $$$ but very sturdy and don't vibrate


----------



## jesped2

rocklee said:


> That's what I thought. You think that after over 200 pages on this thread that there would be far more reports about this.


So, anybody here with a EH-TW9300 can confirm their 3D works great without unbearable crosstalk?


----------



## sddp

inspector said:


> Okay all, here is what I've been told from Epson...I'm going to start a new thread to tell Epson that the 6040 has a inherent 3D crosstalk/ghosting problem.
> 
> 
> YOU HAVE TO CALL for them to be aware of the problem. As of right now, I'm the first that has reported it.
> 
> 
> Here is the number and the guys name:
> 
> 
> Cortney
> 
> 
> 562-981 3840 (San Pedro, CA number)
> 
> 
> This has to be our route to get our projectors fixed!!!
> 
> 
> Inspector (John)






Thank you for taking the time to do this and sharing it. I've (like many who are into 3D) have invested quite a lot of money in a theater (Projector screen, construction, cabling, etc.) and the 3D was one of the main reason I sold my HDTV and enter into the Projector world.


----------



## sddp

seplant said:


> Uh, maybe you're the first to talk to Cortney, but you're definitely not the first to call. I have spoken with them several times and have several tickets open. But I'll call Cortney also and tell him my ticket numbers.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk




When calling Epson, %95 of the time it forwards to offshore tech support. Although they do a fantastic job (as I've called them dozens of times in over a decade for other product issue i.e. color printers, etc) but for something like the issue we're having as complex as the 3D, it's also best to get a hold of their US based customer service as that will get to the higher ups. San Pedro is their US base. If at least 2 or 3 call in each week regarding this, they will see this is getting serious on their and to push for an update fix as a priority.
3D is not new and not rocket science.


One can only hope its just a firmware update to address this


----------



## inspector

That's why the call to San Pedro.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

Viche said:


> Sounds neat. Can you share a picture of that?



Sure here are a few. We have 2 windows and 1 doorwall. The insides have been caulked and now we just need to caulk the outside. We cut the frame back so the couch would recline. This is all out of place because we're working on the basement but the one picture is at 2pm with all the lights off and its sunny outside.

We get some bleed through the actual drape but I didn't bother to put the blinds up behind it, once those are back up and we caulk the top and sides its pitch black. First picture is off because its a wide angle shot.


----------



## robc1976

What is your guys favorite mount for this projector?


----------



## robc1976

dholmes54 said:


> Get a Chief mount,the kind that came with the 6040,they are $$$ but very sturdy and don't vibrate


 Is this the mount your referring to? 

https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIA2...wfKCqrjvESUHLco4--BzRhoCN_jw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## bommai

About 7 years ago, I bought this mount for my Epson 1080UB.

MightyMount

It still works fine, but I wonder if it will work for the 5040UB. In the interest of saving money, i would like to use this as long as it will hold the weight. It is a bit of a pin to take off and remove though (without a second person's assistance). My projector will probably be here by the end of next week. If this mount is not good enough, what other mounts do people suggest. I do like the looks of the Chief mount but the price is giving me heart burns!

How about this mount from amazon?


----------



## inspector

I have a Chief 4500 brand new that I didn't use from my 6040. It's $125 plus $25 shipping. PM me for info.


----------



## sddp

robc1976 said:


> Is this the mount your referring to?
> 
> https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIA2...wfKCqrjvESUHLco4--BzRhoCN_jw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds




WHOA! 
That's way too expensive, I would go with the Peerless PEPRGSUNVW mount for 1/3 of the price
For Projectors up to 50 lb 




https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...s_unv_w_prgs_series_prgs_unv_s_projector.html


----------



## Craig Peer

bommai said:


> About 7 years ago, I bought this mount for my Epson 1080UB.
> 
> MightyMount
> 
> It still works fine, but I wonder if it will work for the 5040UB. In the interest of saving money, i would like to use this as long as it will hold the weight. It is a bit of a pin to take off and remove though (without a second person's assistance). My projector will probably be here by the end of next week. If this mount is not good enough, what other mounts do people suggest. I do like the looks of the Chief mount but the price is giving me heart burns!
> 
> How about this mount from amazon?


That mount doesn't look great, or very sturdy. Try a Chief RPA 357 mount.


----------



## Geraldius

I'll second going with a peerless mount, but recommend this newer improved version for its better construction and ease of adjustment. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...PRG_UNV_PRG_UNV_Precision_Gear_Projector.html
It's a couple dollars more but worth it.


----------



## dholmes54

robc1976 said:


> Is this the mount your referring to?
> 
> https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIA2...wfKCqrjvESUHLco4--BzRhoCN_jw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


Yes,but that's too $$$$$!


----------



## ayrton

Geraldius said:


> 3D over wireless is working fine for me with either my old Sony BDP-BX58 and the new UBP-X800.
> Sure you got the correct 3D disk inserted? Is 3D mode set to auto? If so the other settings are greyed out.


Thanks for the reply.

I've got everything set up as mentioned. If I set my 203 to "Forced 3D" I get it on the UBe, otherwise, no. I think I've got a problem.. Both players indicate "No Compatible 3D device detected"


----------



## k3nnis

Is the peerless mount as good as the chief? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jladner

Update on 3D crosstalk..
Tonight I decided to play Rogue One in 3D to see if I could mess with the settings and get an image with less crosstalk.....low and behold the movie played with almost no crosstalk right away...then I put in Doctor Strange which had horrible crosstalk the last playing....it played perfect. I changed NOTHING. The only thing that was different was that my Oppo 203 received a firmware update today....Maybe it is not all on Epson afterall?


----------



## seplant

jladner said:


> Update on 3D crosstalk..
> Tonight I decided to play Rogue One in 3D to see if I could mess with the settings and get an image with less crosstalk.....low and behold the movie played with almost no crosstalk right away...then I put in Doctor Strange which had horrible crosstalk the last playing....it played perfect. I changed NOTHING. The only thing that was different was that my Oppo 203 received a firmware update today....Maybe it is not all on Epson afterall?


Try the same movies again tomorrow. And the next day. Then please report back to let us know if the crosstalk is still gone. My experience has been it can be good one day and bad the next. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## sddp

seplant said:


> Try the same movies again tomorrow. And the next day. Then please report back to let us know if the crosstalk is still gone. My experience has been it can be good one day and bad the next.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk




Hmmm...
So the Epson 5040 suffers from a personality disorder?


----------



## inspector

Jerry Bruckheimer Fan said:


> I just ordered my 5040UB. Pairing it with a Stewart Cima Neve 138 inch diagonal 2.35:1 screen. Now I just need to find the right ceiling mount.



sent you a PM


----------



## aaranddeeman

seplant said:


> Try the same movies again tomorrow. And the next day. Then please report back to let us know if the crosstalk is still gone. My experience has been it can be good one day and bad the next.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


And I thought "mood swings" only apply to...


----------



## db999md

This is re: 3d crosstalk. Interestingly it does not appear to occur when watching something in simulated 3D.
I also have watched downloaded SBS content without issue either.
3d blu-ray is pretty bad though. Watched Dr Strange and it was painful.

can some others maybe try simulated 3D and some SBS content?
Maybe this will hlpe get the issue resolved.


----------



## darkangelism

k3nnis said:


> Is the peerless mount as good as the chief?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


when I asked about the peerless mississippiman told me to get a chief and that is what I did.


----------



## db999md

Another 3d crosstalk related post.

I have a 92 inch screen.
When I set the 3d to 70 inches I think that the crosstalk is better. not perfect but better.


----------



## gene4ht

darkangelism said:


> when I asked about the peerless mississippiman told me to get a chief and that is what I did.


Agree with @MississippiMan ...IMO, you can't do better than Chief relative to fit, flexibility, adjustment, ease of and alignment accuracy of PJ removal and replacement, and especially rigidity/sturdiness.


----------



## k3nnis

darkangelism said:


> when I asked about the peerless mississippiman told me to get a chief and that is what I did.




Ok thanks. But I'm not sure if Australia sells the chief mounts. I did see peerless though


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

jladner said:


> Update on 3D crosstalk..
> Tonight I decided to play Rogue One in 3D to see if I could mess with the settings and get an image with less crosstalk.....low and behold the movie played with almost no crosstalk right away...then I put in Doctor Strange which had horrible crosstalk the last playing....it played perfect. I changed NOTHING. The only thing that was different was that my Oppo 203 received a firmware update today....Maybe it is not all on Epson afterall?


It is often reported that you need to give quite a bit of projector warm up time, any difference in the warm up time in your two tests?


----------



## robc1976

I used to know the answer to this but have forgotten the answer to this.

The difference between the 5040ub and the 5040ube I know is wirless but I thought the "UBE" had more bandwith? Is there anything xbox related in difference between the two compatibility wise? I don't really care about HDR.


----------



## Hawkmarket

jladner said:


> Update on 3D crosstalk..
> Tonight I decided to play Rogue One in 3D to see if I could mess with the settings and get an image with less crosstalk.....low and behold the movie played with almost no crosstalk right away...then I put in Doctor Strange which had horrible crosstalk the last playing....it played perfect. I changed NOTHING. The only thing that was different was that my Oppo 203 received a firmware update today....Maybe it is not all on Epson afterall?




I have an Epson 5030 that I've watched multiple 3D movies on with no problems at all. Tonight we watched Rogue One and it by far had the most cross talk of any movie I've ever watched on it. It was still very enjoyable but there was definitely more than I was used to seeing. I watched about the first 10 minutes of Dr. Strange and it looks like it may have cross talk issues as well but again not enough to be too distracting.


----------



## Geraldius

ayrton said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> I've got everything set up as mentioned. If I set my 203 to "Forced 3D" I get it on the UBe, otherwise, no. I think I've got a problem.. Both players indicate "No Compatible 3D device detected"


What is your 3D content? Sounds like possibly an hdmi settings issue? Can't duplicate the problem on mine.


----------



## ken8

Hawkmarket said:


> I have an Epson 5030 that I've watched multiple 3D movies on with no problems at all. Tonight we watched Rogue One and it by far had the most cross talk of any movie I've ever watched on it. It was still very enjoyable but there was definitely more than I was used to seeing. I watched about the first 10 minutes of Dr. Strange and it looks like it may have cross talk issues as well but again not enough to be too distracting.


I have the same problems with those movies on my 5020


----------



## ken8

Geraldius said:


> What is your 3D content? Sounds like possibly an hdmi settings issue? Can't duplicate the problem on mine.


Hope you don't mind me asking but are you experiencing any of the crosstalk/ghosting issues on yours?


----------



## seplant

db999md said:


> Another 3d crosstalk related post.
> 
> I have a 92 inch screen.
> When I set the 3d to 70 inches I think that the crosstalk is better. not perfect but better.


Now that's interesting. I've got mine set to 110", which is the size of my screen. I'll have to try changing that setting to something other than 110" to see if it makes any difference on mine.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## jsrdlr

seplant said:


> Now that's interesting. I've got mine set to 110", which is the size of my screen. I'll have to try changing that setting to something other than 110" to see if it makes any difference on mine.


I'll mess with mine too. Mine is set at 140 for my 135" screen. I didn't have time to mess with it before but I should be able to this afternoon. I'll also give it 15-20 minutes to warm up as that wasn't something I was aware of.


----------



## bmock17

I got this projector last week and it is fantastic. I am coming from 4 different sony 45es's, and a sony 40es before that. I had nothing put problems with the sony so i figured i would give epson a try. So far so good; the picture on this projector really is terrific. 

I have a question about the samsung k-8500 blu ray player with this projector. I read through a lot of this thread and see a lot of people recommend the philips, but i was at ABT yesterday and the samsung was on sale for $179, so i couldnt pass it up. First, is anyone running this combination? Second, if so, what are you setting for the blu ray player? I hooked it up last night and turned on Everest in 4k and hdr and i was shocked at how dark the picture was. I was playing around with the HDR settings a little bit and i think it was HDR 3 that really brightened up the picture and looked a lot better.

Any information is appreciated!


----------



## inspector

I'm running the 6040 with the Sammy K8500. One of the problems I have is my receiver is an older Onkyo 608. My HDMI 1.4 runs (35' original run thru the attic)) from PJ to the Sammy and then HDMI 1.4 to my receiver, so I'm not getting HDR (4K enhancement is grayed out).


On Monday I'll be getting a new HDMI 2.0 cable that does everything, so I'll see what HDR looks like, if it works. Good thing these cables are so cheap...and I hope that the 35' run doesn't compromise the signal.


I'm also hoping it might help the problem I'm having with ghosting/crosstalk on 3D movies. 


Yes, if you play with the HDR, the picture changes drastically.


----------



## inspector

I have a Chief 4500 ceiling mount brand new for sale. I originally bought it because I had bought the 5040 that didn't come with one. Returned the 5040 and bought the 6040, now I have two. The new one that came with the 6040 is for sale...$125 plus $25 for shipping. The same price I paid for it on eBay last month.


PM me if you are interested.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks. But I'm not sure if Australia sells the chief mounts. I did see peerless though
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I got the Chief Universal Mount and it is extremely sturdy as well.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Ugh. FML. So, I had been having signal drop issues while using the wireless transmitter feature of my UBe. After talking with Epson tech a few weeks ago I decided to switch to a wired setup, basically accepting that I'd spent $300 too much for this projector. After weeks of being wired, I'm confident the issue isn't with wireless, isn't with the $500 worth of HDMI cables and 2nd AVR I purchased to rule out issues with my components, it's the god damn projector. This has been such a headache.

I'm getting signal drops with optical HDMI cables at any resolution and refresh rate. It happens more frequently when 4k is sent to the projector, but still happens at 1080p. At 1080p the drops are straightforward, and just go to "no signal" and a black screen. They get more frequent the longer the projector is on until eventually the image doesn't return. At 4k it's a bit more interesting. It begins with white dots and lines in areas of the screen, which increase, until the signal drops. Image deterioration increases, as do signal drops, until complete loss of image.

This morning I kept everything in place in my entertainment chain, except attached a 4k monitor to the HDMI end that has been plugged into the projector. No issues at all. This projector is ****ed.

Anyone had to get a replacement? How does it work? Do they send a replacement and then you send the defective one back? Or, do you have to send the defective unit in first and then they send a replacement? I hate that I sound like bitchy customer, but this has turned into a much costly, and waaaaay more frustrating experience than I had hoped for, and, if I'm being honest, Epson hasn't been the most helpful in my interactions with them. They're nice. But didn't really seem to take my issue and the testing I had done very seriously.


----------



## thevenom

Hey everyone,

So I Hooked the samsung 8500 and played Planet earth 2 4k UHD,
Looks amazing but the info on the projector shows it a 1080p,
What do I need to do to make it show 2160?

HDR1 looks great btw.


----------



## inspector

flapjackdowntheline said:


> Ugh. FML. So, I had been having signal drop issues while using the wireless transmitter feature of my UBe. After talking with Epson tech a few weeks ago I decided to switch to a wired setup, basically accepting that I'd spent $300 too much for this projector. After weeks of being wired, I'm confident the issue isn't with wireless, isn't with the $500 worth of HDMI cables and 2nd AVR I purchased to rule out issues with my components, it's the god damn projector. This has been such a headache.
> 
> I'm getting signal drops with optical HDMI cables at any resolution and refresh rate. It happens more frequently when 4k is sent to the projector, but still happens at 1080p. At 1080p the drops are straightforward, and just go to "no signal" and a black screen. They get more frequent the longer the projector is on until eventually the image doesn't return. At 4k it's a bit more interesting. It begins with white dots and lines in areas of the screen, which increase, until the signal drops. Image deterioration increases, as do signal drops, until complete loss of image.
> 
> This morning I kept everything in place in my entertainment chain, except attached a 4k monitor to the HDMI end that has been plugged into the projector. No issues at all. This projector is ****ed.
> 
> Anyone had to get a replacement? How does it work? Do they send a replacement and then you send the defective one back? Or, do you have to send the defective unit in first and then they send a replacement? I hate that I sound like bitchy customer, but this has turned into a much costly, and waaaaay more frustrating experience than I had hoped for, and, if I'm being honest, Epson hasn't been the most helpful in my interactions with them. They're nice. But didn't really seem to take my issue and the testing I had done very seriously.


They will send you a refurbished one. Maybe special talking to someone there might get you a new one sent out.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

inspector said:


> They will send you a refurbished one. Maybe special talking to someone there might get you a new one sent out.


Do you know if they send it out first, and then I send mine? I really don't want to be days/weeks without a system, since that space is mainly where we watch tv/movies/game.


----------



## BRADH

thevenom said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> So I Hooked the samsung 8500 and played Planet earth 2 4k UHD,
> Looks amazing but the info on the projector shows it a 1080p,
> What do I need to do to make it show 2160?
> 
> HDR1 looks great btw.


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...r-ultra-hd-blu-ray-player-owner-s-thread.html


With Planet earth 2 I get this with the recommended setting.
3840 x 2160
23.97hz
12 bit 4:2:2
BT.2020 HDR


*Recommended Player Settings for video: 
* *** This is for 4K Ultra HD BD viewing in HDR with Wide color Gamut ***

On the K-8500:

Settings > Picture > Tv Aspect Ratio: 16:9 Original
BD Wise: Off (Only applicable to Samsung Displays. Player and display must be directly connected. When on in the player the 8500 will output standard Blu-ray at 1080p.)
Resolution: Auto ( or 2160p for 4K Ultra BD and 1080p for BD. This will make the TV do the upscaling. It upscales better than the player.) 
Movie Frame (24Fs): Auto
DVD 24Fs Conversion: Auto
Fit Screen Size: Size 4 ( Your choice ) *(Only applies to screen mirroring and Smarthub)*
HDMI Color Format: Auto 
HDMI Deep Color: Off

Preference setting:
Standard Mode, or while a movie is playing hit the Tools button and select user picture mode and set everything to mid point (zeroes).


----------



## jsil

Once you get the replacement then you send yours.


----------



## akgolf

I'm considering the 6040UB. Is this problem with 3D been an issue since it was released last year?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

jsil said:


> Once you get the replacement then you send yours.


Phew


----------



## thevenom

BRADH said:


> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...r-ultra-hd-blu-ray-player-owner-s-thread.html
> 
> 
> With Planet earth 2 I get this with the recommended setting.
> 3840 x 2160
> 23.97hz
> 12 bit 4:2:2
> BT.2020 HDR
> 
> 
> *Recommended Player Settings for video:
> * *** This is for 4K Ultra HD BD viewing in HDR with Wide color Gamut ***
> 
> On the K-8500:
> 
> Settings > Picture > Tv Aspect Ratio: 16:9 Original
> BD Wise: Off (Only applicable to Samsung Displays. Player and display must be directly connected. When on in the player the 8500 will output standard Blu-ray at 1080p.)
> Resolution: Auto ( or 2160p for 4K Ultra BD and 1080p for BD. This will make the TV do the upscaling. It upscales better than the player.)
> Movie Frame (24Fs): Auto
> DVD 24Fs Conversion: Auto
> Fit Screen Size: Size 4 ( Your choice ) *(Only applies to screen mirroring and Smarthub)*
> HDMI Color Format: Auto
> HDMI Deep Color: Off
> 
> Preference setting:
> Standard Mode, or while a movie is playing hit the Tools button and select user picture mode and set everything to mid point (zeroes).


Thanks I will try this out tonight


----------



## darkangelism

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks. But I'm not sure if Australia sells the chief mounts. I did see peerless though
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hatless chimp, who is also there used peerless and it was fine.


----------



## ayrton

Geraldius said:


> What is your 3D content? Sounds like possibly an hdmi settings issue? Can't duplicate the problem on mine.


Avengers and Gravity. Both played perfect on my Panny. Plasma with my 93.

Not familiar with "HDMI" Settings?? Will play with that this evening...

Thanks again for your reply..


----------



## k3nnis

darkangelism said:


> Hatless chimp, who is also there used peerless and it was fine.




Thx


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Why is this so cheap? Makes me wonder if its refurbished or something.

http://www.cliffsdeals.com/Epson_-_...3iIUKnVFhhdFhTfPdrFSXnvET8Mw2om4xPBoC8cvw_wcB


----------



## darkangelism

robc1976 said:


> Why is this so cheap? Makes me wonder if its refurbished or something.
> 
> http://www.cliffsdeals.com/Epson_-_...3iIUKnVFhhdFhTfPdrFSXnvET8Mw2om4xPBoC8cvw_wcB


Without wanting to bash a reseller that I have not done business with, just Google cliffs deals reviews.


----------



## sddp

darkangelism said:


> Without wanting to bash a reseller that I have not done business with, just Google cliffs deals reviews.




Whoa, that is too low. I would call Epson and see if the dealer is on their reseller list and authorized. To be sure that the warranty would be accepted. If it is, then you're good to go. If Epson does not know them then I would NOT buy.


----------



## robc1976

sddp said:


> Whoa, that is too low. I would call Epson and see if the dealer is on their reseller list and authorized. To be sure that the warranty would be accepted. If it is, then you're good to go. If Epson does not know them then I would NOT buy.


I think will just go with Amazon or best buy


----------



## robc1976

darkangelism said:


> Without wanting to bash a reseller that I have not done business with, just Google cliffs deals reviews.


wow, nevermind lol!


----------



## seplant

akgolf said:


> I'm considering the 6040UB. Is this problem with 3D been an issue since it was released last year?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Do a search on this thread for "crosstalk" or "ghosting". You'll see there was talk of this going all the way back to September. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## sddp

robc1976 said:


> I think will just go with Amazon or best buy






I would suggest Best Buy


1) you get points which equals cash for future purchases
2) you become an Elite+ member and can have 45 days to return stuff, free 2 day shipping, etc
3) if you get their warranty, you get a NEW unit if it can't be fixed, no shipping or anything like that, just drive to ANY in the country
4) there's a rack full of 3D and 4K movies that you can walk over to, for obvious reasons


----------



## Geraldius

ken8 said:


> Hope you don't mind me asking but are you experiencing any of the crosstalk/ghosting issues on yours?


Out of about 6 or 7 3D films I viewed I never noticed any crosstalk until I played the Fantastic Beasts disk. Then it was very apparent around bright high contrast images. I played with the 3D depth setting and all that did was move the crosstalk toward the foreground or background picture elements. Then I tried turning the 3D brightness down from high to medium and that fixed it.

Makes sense since this apparently adjusts the glasses left to right lens on/off timing. longer on time allows for more light and thus a brighter image, but also risks overlap where the lens shutter may not close in time before the frame switches.
The lens shutters are LCD, and the latency (response time) likely varies from one model to another. Maybe even with temperature or battery charge level.
Turning down the '3D brightness' provides a greater margin of off time.It would be nice if there was a finer degree of adjustment though, because it has a notable effect on brightness.


----------



## elmalloc

Planet Earth II looks amazing with HDR on this projector! I'm using the Philips UHD player.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

elmalloc said:


> Planet Earth II looks amazing with HDR on this projector! I'm using the Philips UHD player.


Man, I can't wait to get my SI screen. Freakin awesome.


----------



## elmalloc

Snoogleheimer said:


> elmalloc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Planet Earth II looks amazing with HDR on this projector! I'm using the Philips UHD player.
> 
> 
> 
> Man, I can't wait to get my SI screen. Freakin awesome.
Click to expand...

And mind's just a pure white SI. I wonder how the black diamond would do. 

It helps my PJ is very close to the screen, it can put out the necessary light for HDR.


----------



## ken8

Geraldius said:


> Out of about 6 or 7 3D films I viewed I never noticed any crosstalk until I played the Fantastic Beasts disk. Then it was very apparent around bright high contrast images. I played with the 3D depth setting and all that did was move the crosstalk toward the foreground or background picture elements. Then I tried turning the 3D brightness down from high to medium and that fixed it.


Thanks for that, much appreciated


----------



## k3nnis

Are the screen innovations series 1 or 3 fixed 16:9 screens anygood? Or should only get SI due to the zero edge technology?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

Geraldius said:


> Out of about 6 or 7 3D films I viewed I never noticed any crosstalk until I played the Fantastic Beasts disk. Then it was very apparent around bright high contrast images. I played with the 3D depth setting and all that did was move the crosstalk toward the foreground or background picture elements. Then I tried turning the 3D brightness down from high to medium and that fixed it.
> 
> Makes sense since this apparently adjusts the glasses left to right lens on/off timing. longer on time allows for more light and thus a brighter image, but also risks overlap where the lens shutter may not close in time before the frame switches.
> The lens shutters are LCD, and the latency (response time) likely varies from one model to another. Maybe even with temperature or battery charge level.
> Turning down the '3D brightness' provides a greater margin of off time.It would be nice if there was a finer degree of adjustment though, because it has a notable effect on brightness.


Huh....maybe it's all about the glasses warming up so those lcd lenses work faster 



elmalloc said:


> And mind's just a pure white SI. I wonder how the black diamond would do.
> 
> It helps my PJ is very close to the screen, it can put out the necessary light for HDR.


What size screen and what distance throw?


----------



## elmalloc

Viche said:


> Huh....maybe it's all about the glasses warming up so those lcd lenses work faster
> 
> 
> 
> What size screen and what distance throw?


It's a 110" screen from 10'9" lens to screen.

This is the first HDR film I can say "wow", it worked. Martian looked dark. Then again, I could tweak the brightness settings some more to see if I can get more juice out of it. It's also not running in high power mode, mainly because the Epson sounds like a jet then...


----------



## k3nnis

How far do you sit from your 110" screen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## elmalloc

k3nnis said:


> How far do you sit from your 110" screen?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think I'm about the same distance back as the lens, 10-11 ft.

Mind you IMO the height of your screen should be used in a seating distance calculation. I used to sit about 11ft away from a 14ft wide 2.4 (178" diagonal) screen.

You could sit much closer to a 110" screen and "get away" with it, especially with no pixel structure on the Epson in 4K mode.


----------



## k3nnis

elmalloc said:


> I think I'm about the same distance back as the lens, 10-11 ft.
> 
> 
> 
> Mind you IMO the height of your screen should be used in a seating distance calculation. I used to sit about 11ft away from a 14ft wide 2.4 (178" diagonal) screen.
> 
> 
> 
> You could sit much closer to a 110" screen and "get away" with it, especially with no pixel structure on the Epson in 4K mode.




Ok thanks. I will be around 10.5' from the screen


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jsrdlr

elmalloc said:


> And mind's just a pure white SI. I wonder how the black diamond would do.
> 
> It helps my PJ is very close to the screen, it can put out the necessary light for HDR.


Looks phenomenal for me too and mine is ~19ft away from a 135" screen. Truly impressive and I can run the lamp on eco too.


----------



## jsrdlr

Lamp on high, screen size set to 100", and 3D brightness set to low gets me no to very little crosstalk on Rogue One. It's tough at the beginning especially as it's a very dark movie. Curious if others can get the same results. It looked pretty good to me. I didn't play with HDMI settings yet.


----------



## panman40

jsrdlr said:


> Lamp on high, screen size set to 100", and 3D brightness set to low gets me no to very little crosstalk on Rogue One. It's tough at the beginning especially as it's a very dark movie. Curious if others can get the same results. It looked pretty good to me. I didn't play with HDMI settings yet.


Lamp on medium is about all I can stomach, high lamp comes with unbearable fan noise. These very dark movies are becoming a bore for me particularly when it's 4K/HDR on a projector. Just watched Disneys Moana 3D blu Ray and overall very good, some crosstalk but nothing enough to spoil the film. Medium lamp/ glasses brightness medium/gamma+1/ contrast 45/ brightness 51/ superwhite On.


----------



## JewDaddy

panman40 said:


> Lamp on medium is about all I can stomach, high lamp comes with unbearable fan noise. These very dark movies are becoming a bore for me particularly when it's 4K/HDR on a projector. Just watched Disneys Moana 3D blu Ray and overall very good, some crosstalk but nothing enough to spoil the film. Medium lamp/ glasses brightness medium/gamma+1/ contrast 45/ brightness 51/ superwhite On.




Be careful with Superwhite. It crushes black details. I learned this by doing some tests and had no idea how much black crush was going on. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

JewDaddy said:


> Be careful with Superwhite. It crushes black details. I learned this by doing some tests and had no idea how much black crush was going on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's interesting, on my unit superwhite has no effect on brightness settings (black crush). Turning it off however does clip Whites which is the opposite of what you have found .


----------



## mase1981

I am confident it was said many times here on this thread, but just in case someone missed it. 
Since the XBOX last update (XB1S), ATMOS is working and HDR10 is working flawlessly. 
Making the XB1S what i purchased it for, one stop shop for everything media in my theater room. Putting my Phillips UHD player to sleep..
Couldn't be happier, tested last night with X MEN apocalypse and it was AWESOME !


----------



## Samuraijones

mase1981 said:


> I am confident it was said many times here on this thread, but just in case someone missed it.
> Since the XBOX last update (XB1S), ATMOS is working and HDR10 is working flawlessly.
> Making the XB1S what i purchased it for, one stop shop for everything media in my theater room. Putting my Phillips UHD player to sleep..
> Couldn't be happier, tested last night with X MEN apocalypse and it was AWESOME !


I came to the same conclusion. However I was unable to get HDR to work for netflix. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## mase1981

Samuraijones said:


> I came to the same conclusion. However I was unable to get HDR to work for netflix.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


that is most likely an update that Netflix need to release to the app i assume... not sure. but im glad that DISKS works perfectly now.


----------



## Samuraijones

mase1981 said:


> that is most likely an update that Netflix need to release to the app i assume... not sure. but im glad that DISKS works perfectly now.


Have you made any adjustments to the projector. Just curious

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## mase1981

Samuraijones said:


> Have you made any adjustments to the projector. Just curious
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


to the projector no, to the xbox yes. 
on XB1S needed: 
for audio check "let me receiver decode audio" and in video settings "allow 4.2.2"
i did calibrate my projector, but after xb1s settings changes projector info now show 4K HDR


----------



## Snoogleheimer

panman40 said:


> That's interesting, on my unit superwhite has no effect on brightness settings (black crush). Turning it off however does clip Whites which is the opposite of what you have found .


That's odd. Mine does what JewDaddy said his does.


----------



## Samuraijones

mase1981 said:


> to the projector no, to the xbox yes.
> on XB1S needed:
> for audio check "let me receiver decode audio" and in video settings "allow 4.2.2"
> i did calibrate my projector, but after xb1s settings changes projector info now show 4K HDR


Thats exactly what I did. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Just got this email from Courtney from Epson. They are now aware of the 3D problem! They now need to research it and find a fix. Let's get those emails, phone calls and pictures over to them asap!


Thanks,


Inspector


Hey John,

In order to research the issue you're having with the 3D ghosting on the 5040/6040UB, we would like for you to provide screen captures of the following when the issue occurs:

-3D menu, Info menu, Signal and Image menu,
-What source device is being used to play the 3D content and screenshot of the current 3D settings from the menu of the source device (blu ray player, cable box, etc.)
-The title of the movie, and a time stamp where the issue can clearly be seen.
-Manufacturer of the 3D Glasses being used (if not Epson glasses).

Please feel free to pass this information along to anyone experiencing these issues and contact us to provide us with this information. I can be reached directly at 1.562.981.3840 ext 19014

Best Regards,

Courtney T.
Epson America


THIS EMAIL CAME FROM:


[email protected]


----------



## akgolf

Hopefully they get enough info to troubleshoot the issue. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Geraldius

How many people complaining of crosstalk have tried turning down the 3D brightness setting? Epson might decide to 'fix' this issue by simply taking away the brightness adjustment option and sticking us with a lowest denominator fixed setting, like most TVs. Then you'll be complaining about how dark 3D is on your projector.


----------



## inspector

Geraldius said:


> How many people complaining of crosstalk have tried turning down the 3D brightness setting? Epson might decide to 'fix' this issue by simply taking away the brightness adjustment option and sticking us with a lowest denominator fixed setting, like most TVs. Then you'll be complaining about how dark 3D is on your projector.


We've tried everything. There is an inherent problem with the projector. No need to start playing devil's advocate, they know there's a problem and are determined to fix it.


I want mine fixed, I hope you do too!


----------



## Geraldius

inspector said:


> We've tried everything. There is an inherent problem with the projector. No need to start playing devil's advocate, they know there's a problem and are determined to fix it.
> 
> 
> I want mine fixed, I hope you do too!


Not playing devil's advocate. Mine works fine. Sorry yours doesn't and I hope you get it resolved. However I'm betting that many others here are being misled that this is a problem with all of them by those complaining the loudest. There are many components in this issue. The performance of the particular 3D glasses is a major one.


The only thing Epson can do to affect crosstalk is to tweak the timing of the shutter signal to the glasses. They can't make poor performing glasses work better.


----------



## inspector

Epson is aware there is a problem, that's why they want us to show it to them so they can fix it, including yours.


----------



## panman40

Snoogleheimer said:


> That's odd. Mine does what JewDaddy said his does.


Very odd, put up a contrast test pattern then toggle superwhite on/off, with it Off it clips white.


----------



## Geraldius

inspector said:


> Epson is aware there is a problem, that's why they want us to show it to them so they can fix it, including yours.


Epson is aware that people are complaining, and they are politely handling the complaints by saying they will investigate. I used to work for Epson as an electronics engineer. It is a Japanese company -- that's how they handle things.
As an electronics design engineer with expertise in LCD design, I understand how the 3D glasses work, and I understand the limitations. Trust me, it is a very real possibility that Epson could decide to fix the 'problem' by taking away the adjustability option, leaving the signal timing fixed at a single value.


And despite your insistence that all 5040/6040s are defective, I find that mine is not, thank you. Others are also stating that adjusting the 3D brightness setting has helped the crosstalk performance.


----------



## sddp

Geraldius said:


> How many people complaining of crosstalk have tried turning down the 3D brightness setting? Epson might decide to 'fix' this issue by simply taking away the brightness adjustment option and sticking us with a lowest denominator fixed setting, like most TVs. Then you'll be complaining about how dark 3D is on your projector.






Having to turn down the brightness defeats he purpose. 3D glasses ALREADY darkens the image by %20. So turning up the brightness or leaving at medium would balance that out to some degree. But turning it down with the %20 loss defeats the whole purpose.


All of my Mitsubishi 3D DLPs (65", 73", and last one 92") never in any shape or form had ghosting. My Samsun 60" 3D has no ghosting and on all of those 3D sets I've bought, I've been able to turn up the brightness to compensate for the light loss when using 3D source material or when using a 3D-Bee 2D-3D converter.


Not sure why all of a sudden a PJ would have to turn the brightness to the lowest setting. This is old technology, I didn't just come out a few years ago.




And a big thanks to Inspector for all of your work and time on this. I appreciate it and I believe I speak for a lot of other members (even non-members)


----------



## Geraldius

sddp said:


> Having to turn down the brightness defeats he purpose. 3D glasses ALREADY darkens the image by %20. So turning up the brightness or leaving at medium would balance that out to some degree. But turning it down with the %20 loss defeats the whole purpose.
> 
> All of my Mitsubishi 3D DLPs (65", 73", and last one 92") never in any shape or form had ghosting. My Samsun 60" 3D has no ghosting and on all of those 3D sets I've bought, I've been able to turn up the brightness to compensate for the light loss when using 3D source material or when using a 3D-Bee 2D-3D converter.
> 
> Not sure why all of a sudden a PJ would have to turn the brightness to the lowest setting. This is old technology, I didn't just come out a few years ago.)


TVs are simply much brighter than projectors to begin with. You can try to compensate by increasing the lamp power or the brightness setting in the 'image' menu. But the "3D Brightness" setting in the 3D Setup menu does only one thing -- it increases or decreases the 'open' period of the LCD shutter on the glasses. You can't leave the shutter open longer than the left or right frame period without beginning to see some of the unwanted opposite frame.


This is not an "all of a sudden PJ" problem. People have been lamenting dark 3D from projectors for a long time.


----------



## sddp

Geraldius said:


> TVs are simply much brighter than projectors to begin with. You can try to compensate by increasing the lamp power or the brightness setting in the 'image' menu. But the "3D Brightness" setting in the 3D Setup menu does only one thing -- it increases or decreases the 'open' period of the LCD shutter on the glasses. You can't leave the shutter open longer than the left or right frame period without beginning to see some of the unwanted opposite frame.
> 
> 
> This is not an "all of a sudden PJ" problem. People have been lamenting dark 3D from projectors for a long time.




Thanks for the info, after having three different 3D DLPs, I always thought it was just an inherent issue with DLP only. Looks like it's just how 3D works once the glasses go on and the shuttering begins.


----------



## john barlow

Geraldius said:


> How many people complaining of crosstalk have tried turning down the 3D brightness setting? Epson might decide to 'fix' this issue by simply taking away the brightness adjustment option and sticking us with a lowest denominator fixed setting, like most TVs. Then you'll be complaining about how dark 3D is on your projector.


I've tried it and sometimes it works for me. I find that cross talk or ghosting, can be caused by more than one issue with this PJ in our cinema. Disc specific and the brand of 3D glasses being used is important. I've found the Samsung 3D glasses being sold on Amazon work well with my Oppo 203/Epson 5040UB combo. Also, Valuevue 3D glasses reproduce a nice 3D image and work well for me. They both work well when wearing eyeglasses underneath as well. I've found that settings can ameliorate the problem as well. I still haven't been able to eliminate ghosting on text. I don't use subtitles so, not an issue of importance for me. Animated Blu ray 3D films are often gloriously reproduced on my screen with the Epson. Passengers 3D stands out as an excellently rendered 3D Blu ray for me with the Epson and Oppo 203 player. There are other excellent reproduced 3D films but not important because, many times it's the settings or the specific motion picture that presents the issues with my set up. Hope this helps someone. Anyone else experience anything similar to what I'm experiencing, please chime in with your method of attacking the 3D problem. Still, for me, this Epson projector along with the other components in our theater combine to provide a synergy and the greatest home cinematic experience for my family and friends. Thus far, and with hundreds of hours in with the current set up, I'm quite excited about our hobby/passion/obsession and for the future of home cinema.


----------



## Geraldius

White on black text (or the reverse) is going to the be the worst case torture test for crosstalk, because it is the highest contrast situation with the sharpest edges. You see this readily in the end credits of a film. 
The Fantastic beasts film has some scenes with 'newspaper headlines' where this is quite apparent. 
I've got 3 pairs of Panasonic glasses that I used with my Panasonic plasma, and a set of 3Active glasses made by the same company that makes the Valuevue. One of the pairs of Panasonics has worse crosstalk in one eye versus the other. You can see this by closing one eye at a time.


----------



## john barlow

elmalloc said:


> Planet Earth II looks amazing with HDR on this projector! I'm using the Philips UHD player.


Planet Earth II is stellar with the Oppo 203/Epson5040UB combo in our cinema as well.


----------



## inspector

Well, I just viewed my friends 5010 and there was no ghosting/crosstalk on the many films we viewed and we were using Epson glasses that was supplied with the PJ. 


His glasses will not work with the 5040/6040. The $40 glasses from Quantum did not work with the 6040. So, something happened between the 5010 and the 5040. I am using the glasses from Epson that are for the 6040.


I think and Epson will bear out that there is a problem with the Epson 3D, just that some show the problem more than others.


----------



## Geraldius

The irony of showing HDR screen shots on an online forum, viewed in glorious PC video...


I did quite enjoy seeing "Angels and Demons" last night in "faux 4K" HDR, accompanied by an awesome Atmos soundtrack. It was one of my free disks that came with purchase of the Sony UBP-X800.


----------



## Geraldius

inspector said:


> Well, I just viewed my friends 5010 and there was no ghosting/crosstalk on the many films we viewed and we were using Epson glasses that was supplied with the PJ.
> His glasses will not work with the 5040/6040. The $40 glasses from Quantum did not work with the 6040. So, something happened between the 5010 and the 5040. I am using the glasses from Epson that are for the 6040.
> I think and Epson will bear out that there is a problem with the Epson 3D, just that some show the problem more than others.


For what it's worth, here's an article on crosstalk with the Epson 6010, which is the 'black twin' of the 5010: http://www.avsforum.com/can-reduce-3d-crosstalk-projector-ask-editors/
The 5010/6010 use IR triggered glasses vs the RF triggered glasses of the 5040/6040.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

panman40 said:


> Very odd, put up a contrast test pattern then toggle superwhite on/off, with it Off it clips white.


A paradox indeed.


----------



## seplant

Geraldius said:


> For what it's worth, here's an article on crosstalk with the Epson 6010, which is the 'black twin' of the 5010: http://www.avsforum.com/can-reduce-3d-crosstalk-projector-ask-editors/
> The 5010/6010 use IR triggered glasses vs the RF triggered glasses of the 5040/6040.


Strange that I never noticed any crosstalk using Epson or any other brand of glasses during the four years that I owned a 6010, yet now I constantly see crosstalk on my 6040 using several different brands of glasses, including Epson. Plus, the crosstalk varies from viewing to viewing, even on the same titles. And this is with 3D brightness on low and 3D depth at zero. 
Something is broken, and Epson needs to fix it.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## bluer101

I don't watch a lot of 3D with the Epson but watched a lot on my Benq before. But the few tests I have done on the Epson have crosstalk. I have 4 pairs of Epson glasses and 4 pairs of the battery operated Samsung glasses.


----------



## ac388

Agreed. When OFF, I cannot even properly calibrate the Contrast of the picture.




panman40 said:


> That's interesting, on my unit superwhite has no effect on brightness settings (black crush). Turning it off however does clip Whites which is the opposite of what you have found .


----------



## RyanChristopher

mase1981 said:


> I am confident it was said many times here on this thread, but just in case someone missed it.
> 
> Since the XBOX last update (XB1S), ATMOS is working and HDR10 is working flawlessly.
> 
> Making the XB1S what i purchased it for, one stop shop for everything media in my theater room. Putting my Phillips UHD player to sleep..
> 
> Couldn't be happier, tested last night with X MEN apocalypse and it was AWESOME !



Thanks for this update. Are 4K apps like Netflix working on the 5040 as well? Have an Oppo 203 for UHD blu-rays but I need something for apps looking at Nvidia Shield and Xbox One S. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

ac388 said:


> Agreed. When OFF, I cannot even properly calibrate the Contrast of the picture.


I am glad we are in agreement, i calibrate my displays and with superwhite off white information is missing, some professionals say it's extra information that should not be seen but in scenes with bright sky's and clouds etc it's clear to see some detail is lost.

The only setting that clips black on my unit is brightness control. Or if you have poor gamma that can crush black detail.


----------



## elmalloc

The first iteration of Epson's 3D projectors had absolutely horrible crosstalk. I can't remember the model number, 3010 or something. I was one of the first in USA to own the model. It didn't last long (6 months?) before a new model came out.

I switched over to an Optoma HD33 (DLP) and it had almost zero crosstalk. The 3D was beautiful! I couldn't watch non-3D movies after that. I'm afraid to get back into 3D as I think it's dying off and I'm more into 2.4 movies, which my older projector that supports that can't do 3D...


----------



## kgt12

I installed a 120in screen (motorized SI Slate 1.2) and the Epson 5040 last weekend.

Hooked up a Sony UBP X800 yesterday and watched a few minutes of Planet Earth 2 UHD.

Haven't had time to tweak anything, but was wondering if "12 Bit 4:2:2 SDR" means I'm getting the best picture. I'm thinking maybe SDR should say HDR??

Thanks in advance!


----------



## elmalloc

kgt12 said:


> I installed a 120in screen (motorized SI Slate 1.2) and the Epson 5040 last weekend.
> 
> Hooked up a Sony UBP X800 yesterday and watched a few minutes of Planet Earth 2 UHD.
> 
> Haven't had time to tweak anything, but was wondering if "12 Bit 4:2:2 SDR" means I'm getting the best picture. I'm thinking maybe SDR should say HDR??
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Check your image settings, set it to HDR1, check this thread for good HDR settings - save them to a profile called HDR. The HDR settings you find here will have brightness at 50+. Get some popcorn and enjoy. If you firmware update, I think "AUTO" for HDR/SDR will default to HDR1 when it gets an HDR signal. Right now it defaults to HDR2 or something (much darker).

I have the SI pure white 110" zero edge. Wonder how the slate looks. Depending on your throw distance you are probably getting better black levels.


----------



## gene4ht

john barlow said:


> I've tried it and sometimes it works for me. I find that cross talk or ghosting, can be caused by more than one issue with this PJ in our cinema. Disc specific and the brand of 3D glasses being used is important. I've found the Samsung 3D glasses being sold on Amazon work well with my Oppo 203/Epson 5040UB combo. Also, *Valuevue 3D glasses reproduce a nice 3D image and work well for me. They both work well when wearing eyeglasses underneath as well. I've found that settings can ameliorate the problem as well.* I still haven't been able to eliminate ghosting on text. I don't use subtitles so, not an issue of importance for me. Animated Blu ray 3D films are often gloriously reproduced on my screen with the Epson. Passengers 3D stands out as an excellently rendered 3D Blu ray for me with the Epson and Oppo 203 player. There are other excellent reproduced 3D films but not important because, many times it's the settings or the specific motion picture that presents the issues with my set up. Hope this helps someone. *Anyone else experience anything similar to what I'm experiencing, please chime in *with your method of attacking the 3D problem. Still, for me, this Epson projector along with the other components in our theater combine to provide a synergy and the greatest home cinematic experience for my family and friends. Thus far, and with hundreds of hours in with the current set up, I'm quite excited about our hobby/passion/obsession and for the future of home cinema.


Based on recommendations from @Stecchino, I have been using the Valuevue 3D glasses and my experience parallels yours. Indeed, the Valuevues work well and fit comfortably over prescription eyeglasses. I'm in a completely light controlled room with a 115" 1.0 screen and projecting from 12-0 feet. My settings are (1) 3D brightness - Med, (2) 3D dynamic color mode, and (3) high energy lamp mode. To date, after viewing 20+ 3D titles, I have experienced little or no cross-talk/ghosting.


----------



## john barlow

Geraldius said:


> TVs are simply much brighter than projectors to begin with. You can try to compensate by increasing the lamp power or the brightness setting in the 'image' menu. But the "3D Brightness" setting in the 3D Setup menu does only one thing -- it increases or decreases the 'open' period of the LCD shutter on the glasses. You can't leave the shutter open longer than the left or right frame period without beginning to see some of the unwanted opposite frame.
> 
> 
> This is not an "all of a sudden PJ" problem. People have been lamenting dark 3D from projectors for a long time.


I have found out through viewing multiple Blu ray 3D discs that the problem for me is dependent on the disc I'm viewing. Some films are amazingly rendered, others not. Same goes for UHD discs for me. Some UHD Blu ray discs, like, Lucy, Planet Earth ll, Divergent series, Enders Game, Pride and Prejudice Zombies and most animated UHD discs play extremely well with our setup in our cinema. Oppo203/Epson5040Ub combo. I recall being an early adopter when Blu Ray and HDD discs competed for domination earlier in the century. There were a plethora of issues back then as well but, eventually, before long, manufacturers and content providers were able to work through most consumer complaints and provide us with stable reproduction from players, displays and content. With time and patience, early adopters will realize improvements and eventually,4k UHD, HDR and the gear we use to bring the technology into our home cinemas will play nice together and we will live happily ever after. Until, 8k just around the corner.


----------



## murof

I don't have the post count to PM. Would you mind PMing me? I am interested.




inspector said:


> I have a Chief 4500 ceiling mount brand new for sale. I originally bought it because I had bought the 5040 that didn't come with one. Returned the 5040 and bought the 6040, now I have two. The new one that came with the 6040 is for sale...$125 plus $25 for shipping. The same price I paid for it on eBay last month.
> 
> 
> PM me if you are interested.


----------



## darkangelism

Samsung - UBD-K8500 refurb for $170 or Sony UBP-X800 for $300? Does the samsung have issues with the only 10Gbps hdmi? Seems like a lot of people prefer the X800


----------



## dholmes54

elmalloc said:


> Check your image settings, set it to HDR1, check this thread for good HDR settings - save them to a profile called HDR. The HDR settings you find here will have brightness at 50+. Get some popcorn and enjoy. If you firmware update, I think "AUTO" for HDR/SDR will default to HDR1 when it gets an HDR signal. Right now it defaults to HDR2 or something (much darker).
> 
> I have the SI pure white 110" zero edge. Wonder how the slate looks. Depending on your throw distance you are probably getting better black levels.


Si screens are $$$,are they good quality? I had to get a Elite screen which is good for 700.00 but could be better.


----------



## bommai

My 5040ub is on its way and is coming on thursday. Yay. I have not ordered a mount yet. Still hoping I could use the one I already have. I am having a sticker shock over the chief mount!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## drhankz

*3D Blu-Ray Reference DVD*

Hi All

I have been reading all these ghosting comments about
3D Movies you might be watching. 

What I have found is when movie makers shoot the movie
with REAL 3D Cameras - *IT IS A NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE. *

The trouble with movie makers today is they are LAZY. They 
shoot the movie in 2D and have a Computer process the 
image to make a 3D movie. The quality of these 2D-3D
Conversions can vary all over the map. 

When I want to DEMONSTRATE a 3D movie to someone new
I use my Reference Standard

*Legends of Flight*

It only costs $9 at Amazon and is a short movie you can show
people and watch their eyes pop out in amazement.


----------



## ken8

I still can't work out what's going on because all the reviews I've read on the European/Pacific version of the 6040, the 9300 seem to give the 3D pretty high marks. I'm in Australia and had a demo and used 3D films that have given me problems on my 5020 and the results were impressive with minimal, if any crosstalk. This seems to be a US problem for some reason that I can't fathom

Check out this review on Youtube from Europe, the 3D report is around the 33 minute mark






...and from a UK review I posted earlier....

*3D comparison*

For the 3D evaluation, we only looked at the the Epson EH-TW9300 since we personally own the Epson EH-LS10000 and know its 3D performance by heart. Both Sammy and Life of Pi 3D Blu-ray were used to get an idea of the 3D that the Epson EH-TW9300 can provide.
Well, let’s keep it short: this is simply the best 3D we have ever seen! Why? Because it was bright on our 2m50 gain 1 screen, very bright even. Also because it did not suffer from any flickering leaving you with a headache after 5min of the 3D movie. In addition there was virtually no ghosting! The depth of the picture and the pop-outs were amazing.
To achieve these results, we used the Epson EH-TW9300 on bright lamp mode, combined with the “Cinema” color mode. Also, we reduced the glasses 3D brightness to the lowest level to eliminate any residual ghosting.


http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/

I pulled the pin based on what I saw and am picking up my unit today. Will report back when I get it set up


----------



## inspector

bommai said:


> My 5040ub is on its way and is coming on thursday. Yay. I have not ordered a mount yet. Still hoping I could use the one I already have. I am having a sticker shock over the chief mount!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


...and I have PMed you about the perfect ceiling mount! Come on, get with the program and order mine...it's much less than what is on eBay. 


...just buy something!


----------



## aaranddeeman

bommai said:


> My 5040ub is on its way and is coming on thursday. Yay. I have not ordered a mount yet. Still hoping I could use the one I already have. I am having a sticker shock over the chief mount!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What mount do you have? Because this PJ is way too big compared to the old 1080p crop. So unless the mount is future proof, you may be in for absorbing that sticker shock..


----------



## bommai

aaranddeeman said:


> What mount do you have? Because this PJ is way too big compared to the old 1080p crop. So unless the mount is future proof, you may be in for absorbing that sticker shock..


I have a mighty mount 
http://m.ebay.com/itm/CEILING-MOUNT...%3A600169fa15b0a788499d9b03fff8ae64%7Ciid%3A1

It is held on to the ceiling part with two screws. Feels a little unstable with the 1080ub itself. So I think I need a new mount 😫


----------



## ac388

By the way, are you hooking the Epson directly with the Oppo 203 ?



panman40 said:


> I am glad we are in agreement, i calibrate my displays and with superwhite off white information is missing, some professionals say it's extra information that should not be seen but in scenes with bright sky's and clouds etc it's clear to see some detail is lost.
> 
> The only setting that clips black on my unit is brightness control. Or if you have poor gamma that can crush black detail.


----------



## ken8

Got my 5040/8300 up and running and am happy to report that the 3D is as good as reported in my previous post. Hardly any crosstalk and only on high contrast scenes, if at all. Glasses on the lowest brightness certainly does the trick.

The only problem I'm having is some faint intermittent diagonal "banding" which I suspect may be RF interference from the 3D transmitter. Will grab a new cable with better shielding tomorrow and see how I go. I have rung Epson Australia and let them know about it.

I don't have a UHD BD player yet but would a 4K HDMI cable be okay?


----------



## k3nnis

ken8 said:


> Got my 5040/8300 up and running and am happy to report that the 3D is as good as reported in my previous post. Hardly any crosstalk and only on high contrast scenes, if at all. Glasses on the lowest brightness certainly does the trick.
> 
> The only problem I'm having is some faint intermittent diagonal "banding" which I suspect may be RF interference from the 3D transmitter. Will grab a new cable with better shielding tomorrow and see how I go. I have rung Epson Australia and let them know about it.
> 
> I don't have a UHD BD player yet but would a 4K HDMI cable be okay?




Nice I'm from Sydney. Can I ask how much you got the 8300 for? I'm actually wanting the 9300 because it's black haha but not sure what pricing I can get that down to?

Which mount did you use? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ken8

k3nnis said:


> Nice I'm from Sydney. Can I ask how much you got the 8300 for? I'm actually wanting the 9300 because it's black haha but not sure what pricing I can get that down to?
> 
> Which mount did you use?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I got it for $3500 AUD from AIM Digital on eBay. Not using a mount, I have a stand


----------



## k3nnis

ken8 said:


> I got it for $3500 AUD from AIM Digital on eBay. Not using a mount, I have a stand




Oh ok thx. Did you compare it to the 9300?

Is that a good price? One of the lowest?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ken8

k3nnis said:


> Oh ok thx. Did you compare it to the 9300?
> 
> Is that a good price? One of the lowest?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It was the best price I found after much looking. There's a factory second 9300 on Epson's site for around $3800. They come with a six month warranty


----------



## burton14e7

Sorry if I'm being dense but I've ordered my first projector for my new house being built and so I'm trying to wrap my head around the HDR limitations.

My current understanding is that if I'm using a PC with an Nvidia 1070 GTX and MadVR to play a 4k 4:2:2 HDR10 REC. 2020 file that HDR will be dropped. Is that right?


----------



## Evan201

Anyone else running these settings when viewing UHD blu rays? 
I have a few settings that I'll play with depending on the movie but these have been really pleasing for most UHD movies. 
Can't seem to see any clipping. So far my absolute favorite UHD content has been Planet Earth II and Kingsmen. 

HDR Settings: Bright Cinema
(Auto Bright HDR1)
Brightness: 48
Contrast: 70
Color: 80 
Tint: 45
Gamma: +2 
Image Enhance: 4
Lamp: High (only when watching 4k UHD blu ray, because why not splurge for the good stuff) 

image hosting 10mb limit


----------



## inspector

okay...I need HELP!!!


Just installed new high speed HDMI cable and put on PASSENGERS, it reads"


1920 x 2160
23.97 Hz
12 bit 4:2:2
BT. 2020 HDR


(It reads this way with the old HDMI 1.4 and the new HDMI 2.0)
..........................................................................................................


Shouldn't it read:


3840 x 2160
23.97 Hz
12 bit 4:2:2
BT. 709 HDR2


What are the settings to get the above. One thing, I'm on FW 1.08. Could the new FW 1.9 help make me to receive 3840 x 2160?


HELP!!!


----------



## Evan201

inspector said:


> okay...I need HELP!!!
> 
> 
> Just installed new high speed HDMI cable and put on PASSENGERS, it reads"
> 
> 
> 1920 x 2160
> 23.97 Hz
> 12 bit 4:2:2
> BT. 2020 HDR
> 
> 
> (It reads this way with the old HDMI 1.4 and the new HDMI 2.0)


I installed the monoprice Luxe Active Cable at 35' and have had no issues with 1.09 FM. You may need an active cable, not just high speed. 
If plugged into the HDMI 2.2 on PJ
I'm using the philips UHD player for HDR. 

I receive:
3840 x 2160
23.97 Hz
12 bit 4:2:2
BT. 2020 HDR1


----------



## cchrono

inspector said:


> okay...I need HELP!!!
> 
> 
> Just installed new high speed HDMI cable and put on PASSENGERS, it reads"
> 
> 
> 1920 x 2160
> 23.97 Hz
> 12 bit 4:2:2
> BT. 2020 HDR
> 
> 
> (It reads this way with the old HDMI 1.4 and the new HDMI 2.0)
> ..........................................................................................................
> 
> 
> Shouldn't it read:
> 
> 
> 3840 x 2160
> 23.97 Hz
> 12 bit 4:2:2
> BT. 709 HDR2
> 
> 
> What are the settings to get the above. One thing, I'm on FW 1.08. Could the new FW 1.9 help make me to receive 3840 x 2160?
> 
> 
> HELP!!!




I would try updating before trying anything else might help with your 3d too who knows


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Evan201

Is there a way to have the Turbo Fan happen upon shutting the projector down rather than when it starts up? Seems counter productive. 
I feel like it should vent the heat before shutting down, not once it's been off for a long time already and completely cool. If i've been watching a UHD blu ray I run the lamp on High for the whole movie and then sometimes before I go to bed I will put it on eco and run the high altitude option for a few minutes to kick up the fan and let it cool out before shutting it down. 

Anyone contact Epson about this? I know other brands like BenQ pj's have this as a standard. Anyone have the epson support number to let them know about this issue?


----------



## Geraldius

Evan201 said:


> Anyone else running these settings when viewing UHD blu rays? ...


Color looks oversaturated to me, and high contrast is causing loss of detail and color banding. Shouldn't need image enhancements.
Just my opinion, but it looked like you wanted feedback.


----------



## inspector

cchrono said:


> I would try updating before trying anything else might help with your 3d too who knows
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Well, when they hooked up my 6040 the guy connected my old 1.4 to HDMI 2 on the 6040. Of course no UHD. Bought a new 2.0 high speed cable and still no UHD while plugged into HDMI 2, tried HDMI 1 and got no picture and sent it back. Just received Monoprice Cabernet Ultra cable and still no UHD plugged into HDMI 2. Didn't bother with HDMI 1 because I figured I wouldn't get a pic like last time.


Just now read an article in CNET about how the Sammy K8500 needs HDCP 2.2 to play properly. So, I plugged in the new cable into HDMI 1 (HDCP 2.2)...and what do you know, now I get UHD and awesome sound to boot!!!


Don't know about wanting to update FW to 1.09 since it works at 1.08...if it ain't broken, don't fix it.


Thanks for your input guys!


----------



## cchrono

inspector said:


> Well, when they hooked up my 6040 the guy connected my old 1.4 to HDMI 2 on the 6040. Of course no UHD. Bought a new 2.0 high speed cable and still no UHD while plugged into HDMI 2, tried HDMI 1 and got no picture and sent it back. Just received Monoprice Cabernet Ultra cable and still no UHD plugged into HDMI 2. Didn't bother with HDMI 1 because I figured I wouldn't get a pic like last time.
> 
> 
> Just now read an article in CNET about how the Sammy K8500 needs HDCP 2.2 to play properly. So, I plugged in the new cable into HDMI 1 (HDCP 2.2)...and what do you know, now I get UHD and awesome sound to boot!!!
> 
> 
> Don't know about wanting to update FW to 1.09 since it works at 1.08...if it ain't broken, don't fix it.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input guys!




1.09 has some fixes for hdr that might give you a better experience with uhd discs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## whmacs

Hi All,
Another Epson 9300 (6040) review. Seems AVForums quite like it!
https://www.avforums.com/review/epson-eh-tw9300-projector-review.13460

I was a bit surprised how good out of the box tracking was. They say for Rec709 set it to 'Natural', colour temp 7000k, gamma -1 and you are good to go!

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## roland6465

Just to make sure I'm not crazy...

I have self-calibrated the "Cinema" setting for DirecTV, Roku, and U/BRD viewing with the dynamic range set to "auto", and saved to memory. I have also created a "Bright Cinema" save for HDR discs, with dynamic range to 'HDR1", but when I switch from one save to the other, then range doesn't change.

Do I have to change the dynamic range each time I switch formats, or is there something I'm missing?


----------



## raf77

I found the same.
Dynamic range isn't saved.
Need be changed each time.


----------



## roland6465

raf77 said:


> I found the same.
> Dynamic range isn't saved.
> Need be changed each time.


Thanks!


----------



## inspector

cchrono said:


> 1.09 has some fixes for hdr that might give you a better experience with uhd discs
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


My UHD disc plays perfect...everything plays perfect, except 3D...with the ghosting.


The problem I'm having now is trying to get the old cable to pull out from the wall. I attached the new cable to the old and pulled it through but it's hanging up on something. The hole holds 7 cables, so maybe the new HDMI connection that is attached to the old HDMI connection is hanging up on the edge of the hole...who the hell knows. It's behind the screen and I hope I don't have to cut into the wall.


----------



## akgolf

Since I'm considering getting this projector I went to a local AV dealer and had a 3D demo of the 6040 on a Slate .8 screen. 

I didn't notice any ghosting and thought it looked fantastic. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

I ran into the same problem as u do when replacing the old HDMI. I put a bit of Baby oil on the cable n it pull right thru ... no kidding !



inspector said:


> My UHD disc plays perfect...everything plays perfect, except 3D...with the ghosting.
> 
> 
> The problem I'm having now is trying to get the old cable to pull out from the wall. I attached the new cable to the old and pulled it through but it's hanging up on something. The hole holds 7 cables, so maybe the new HDMI connection that is attached to the old HDMI connection is hanging up on the edge of the hole...who the hell knows. It's behind the screen and I hope I don't have to cut into the wall.


----------



## inspector

ac388 said:


> I ran into the same problem as u do when replacing the old HDMI. I put a bit of Baby oil on the cable n it pull right thru ... no kidding !


Thanks for the suggestion, if all else fails...oil that sucker!!!


----------



## spirithockey79

So, waiting for the 3rd period to start in the Blues vs Wild Stanley Cup Playoff Game 1 and thought I would bring up this always interesting topic while I'm bored....

Is HDMI Extended or Auto/Normal the right choice?
If it's Auto/Normal, does that mean SuperWhite should be ON?

Of course there are varying opinions, even from countless posts I've read from others that have indicated they are professional calibrators, but what I'm looking for is the CORRECT answer based on this projector. And to make it as objective as possible let's limit the source to any UHD player on the market (Samsung, Phillips, Oppo, Sony). 

I would like to hear from calibrators, not people that prefer Normal because blacks look darker or prefer Extended because of better shadow detail. There must be a definitive correct setting, please...there must be!




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bigabit

roland6465 said:


> Thanks!


You want to use the Auto Bright setting on the latest firmware. This activate HDR1 for all UHD content and SDR for everything else. Auto does the same but defaults to HDR2.


----------



## Savatage316

So here's a question... Just upgraded from my 1080 to a 1080 ti and in my Nvidia settings I cant select rgb full. Limited is there but grayed out and ycb is my only range choice. 

What am I missing? Now it's going thru my Denon AV, could there be an option there? Or is there a Pc mode for the projector that I haven't found yet?


----------



## swyda038

*Image is Jittery when using 4k 24hz on NVidia*

I've had the projector for a few weeks now and I've noticed some imagery (particularly expansive panning shots) that the image is jittery or juddering. It is enough to be distracting from the image. I am using the NVidia Shield with the 4k 24hz setting which was the setting suggested by people on the forum to get the BT 2020 color range. I notice it when I am playing Planet Earth 2 on the NVidia. When I change the setting to 4k 60hz the jittering goes away, but I notice a decrease in color range/quality. My AVR is the Yamaha RX-V679BL 7.2-Channel MusicCast AV Receiver with Bluetooth

Is anyone else experiencing this? Any thoughts/suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!


----------



## roland6465

bigabit said:


> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> You want to use the Auto Bright setting on the latest firmware. This activate HDR1 for all UHD content and SDR for everything else. Auto does the same but defaults to HDR2.
Click to expand...

Even better! Thank you.


----------



## kgt12

kgt12 said:


> I installed a 120in screen (motorized SI Slate 1.2) and the Epson 5040 last weekend.
> 
> Hooked up a Sony UBP X800 yesterday and watched a few minutes of Planet Earth 2 UHD.
> 
> Haven't had time to tweak anything, but was wondering if "12 Bit 4:2:2 SDR" means I'm getting the best picture. I'm thinking maybe SDR should say HDR??
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Update: Didn't change any settings, but put in Disc 1 instead of Disc 2 and all of a sudden it's "12 Bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR2"


----------



## kgt12

dholmes54 said:


> Si screens are $$$,are they good quality? I had to get a Elite screen which is good for 700.00 but could be better.


I don't have a lot to compare it to. This is in my living room, with windows on 3 sides, so I wanted something that gave me the best chance for a decent picture with ambient light. That's why I picked slate 1.2. 

I do notice some minor issues with the screen, but only if I'm really looking for them - slight sparkle appearance occasionally, vertical lines every ~6in visible occasionally, some tension issues (this might be user adjustable), etc. But the picture is decent in daylight compared to totally not watchable with other screens. You can see in the image below that it's pretty bright outside (quick pic taken on iphone). The projector is ~18ft from the 120' screen.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs is that a pull down screen? I had 3 Da-lite pull down screens & had to return them because of wrinkles that I couldn't stand so I got a fixed framed Elite,in your case you may have to use a pull down screen. PS Da-lite where a pain to roll back up


----------



## bommai

My 5040ub is out for delivery. I am going kayaking with the family today. So the projector has to wait until tonight. I am going to try my existing mount first. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

Is there an actual Pc mode option somewhere guys? It's one of the reasons I'm thinking I can't set my gpu to full in my Nvidia settings


----------



## Savatage316

I have a Sony x800D which I can set to rgb full, with my epson here I can only set it to ycb limited. Has anyone dealt with this? I'm running thru a Denon s910w and not sure it that's what is holding me up or if there is an option to turn on in the menus to achieve rgb full.. Can they even be selected for this projector?


----------



## Dave Harper

And now for something completely different!  ........

I posted this over on the BenQ X12000 DLP thread, and I thought I would share here since the 5040 is what I used so far as a test bed: 



> *Dave Harper:*
> 
> On a side note, I've been experimenting with "pseudo HDR", meaning sending a non-HDR projector an HDR signal (using its own settings to go into SDR mode, like the Epson, or using an HDF Linker) and then adjusting settings in the projector to get an amazing image, basically manual tone mapping using the projectors settings, namely gamma of course.
> 
> I finally came up with an awesome setting on an Epson 5040UB (I know it's HDR capable, but I put it in SDR mode while it was getting an HDR signal from a Panasonic UB900, confirmed with info details and pictures). The last thing I put in at about 1:30am was Ghost Busters 2016 and the image was spectacular! I also watched The Revenant (great results) and Mad Max earlier and directly compared it to doing the HDR to SDR tone mapping in the UB900 and this manual method looked far better and was easily seen in chapter 3 when they're driving into the giant dust storm!  I was able to use the digital cinema mode, which engages the P3 filter, which is an issue for brightness when in HDR mode, and it was more than bright enough, although as you can imagine, settings had to be pushed since it was using SDR mode on an HDR signal.
> 
> This could be a good method to explore for 4K non HDR but with WCG support projectors, like this BenQ, an older Sony 4K (VW600ES), the Epson LS10000, etc.
> 
> So far I've only messed with it one day yesterday, so I am sure there's still some tweaking to be had, but the results are crazy good so far for what you'd think it would with such weird settings in SDR mode. It messes with your mind and OCD traits to set them this way, but in the end you're like  , especially with the unbelievable detail you can see on the low APL and highlights with no clipping! The entire HDR signal fits nicely within the SDR range with a steep curve at the top end, without blowing anything out or looking unnatural from what I saw so far.
> 
> I'm going to post this and my settings over in the Epson 5040/6040 owner's thread if anyone's interested in trying it themselves to give feedback and any enhancement suggestions. I may also try this on the RS600 with a Linker, just for schitz and giggles, to compare with true HDR mode and stripping HDR but keeping WCG.
> 
> Are there any other reports of anyone doing something like this? I know there's a pseudo HDR thread around somewhere that I read, but I don't recall any real testing or results.
> 
> Sorry to maybe be off topic, but I thought it relevant since the BenQ doesn't support HDR, this could be something to play with. It may not be worth the hassle over just tone mapping in your UHD Bluray player, but time and results will tell I guess. So far so good anyway!


I'll post the actual settings on the 5040 next, if anyone wants to give it a whirl on their 5040/6040.


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> And now for something completely different!  ........
> 
> I posted this over on the BenQ X12000 DLP thread, and I thought I would share here since the 5040 is what I used so far as a test bed:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post the actual settings on the 5040 next, if anyone wants to give it a whirl on their 5040/6040.


PLEASE DO. Sounds pretty interesting. Am I right in saying that you would just go into the signal menu on the 5040 and fix it to SDR when receiving an HDR signal for your workup here?


----------



## Dave Harper

OK here are the settings, told in menu pictures mostly. I set the menu item to the specific mode it's in instead of AUTO so you can see what it is supposed to be and to make sure it's in that mode specifically to get the proper results. The most important settings are the gamma, contrast and setting it to SDR mode manually instead of HDR. (This is to simulate using a projector/display that isn't HDR capable, like the amazing LS10000, which I want to try this on and will post a similar post there in that thread):








Settings are, from left to right 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 16, 32.










Panasonic UB900 showing sending HDR:









This puts the clip point for HDR specular highlights/whites at about 1200 nits. If I could've went higher on contrast I would've probably made that clipping point at about 1000 nits. 

You may also want to adjust the color saturation some. That was the last thing I messed with very late last night (or should I say this morning!  ) so it may not be perfect, but it certainly made my jaw drop at that setting watching Ghostbusters!

If you have an SDR only display you can use an hdfury Linker to trick your source into sending its full HDR signal and then disable the HDR flag on its output to the display. I hope to try this on an LS10000. If anyone here has one or knows someone with one, please refer them here. 

Enjoy and please feel free to tweak as needed and share your results.


----------



## Dave Harper

Evan201 said:


> PLEASE DO. Sounds pretty interesting. Am I right in saying that you would just go into the signal menu on the 5040 and fix it to SDR when receiving an HDR signal for your workup here?



Yes you're correct.


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> Yes you're correct.


Thanks for your experiment. Love to try new things with this projector. I too like to boost up the saturation to 80 on all picture modes.


----------



## Dave Harper

And here are my "HarperVision Experience" settings using the HDR signal capability on Bright Cinema Mode in the 5040, based on a great custom gamma that oledurt sent to me, but tweaked slightly for my tastes. Maybe he will share his as well if he hasn't already. 








Settings: 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,28,0

There's been many iterations of this gamma in my testing, especially at the top end, so this can change and probably will, especially with your personal tweaks if you can share. 

(I'll edit this and update all the menu settings here when I am able to get back to my 5040)


----------



## Dave Harper

Evan201 said:


> Thanks for your experiment. Love to try new things with this projector. I too like to boost up the saturation to 80 on all picture modes.



You will be amazed at the level of detail this gamma and settings pulls out of the low and high ranges! I was shocked, especially for such a "budget" projector. This may even be better than using HDR modes due to the brightness and full WCG choices you have to make now on this unit because you can use Digital Cinema with the DCI-P3 filter engaged AND get the brightness of SDR!!! So much so that I may just keep this one and use it as a temp solution until new projectors are announced and released in the fall and winter CES and CEDIA timeframe. 

I'm not sure 80 is correct though. I'll try to test later.


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> And here are my "HarperVision Experience" settings using the HDR signal capability on Bright Cinema Mode in the 5040, based on a great custom gamma that oledurt sent to me, but tweaked slightly for my tastes. Maybe he will share his as well if he hasn't already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings: 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,28,0


Forgive me but this image does not correlate with these number values. Can you please advise? "0" can't be that high on the far right slider as seen in the image. Are the numbers accurate or is the image you posted of the curve accurate?


----------



## Dave Harper

Evan201 said:


> Forgive me but this image does not correlate with these number values. Can you please advise? "0" can't be that high on the far right slider as seen in the image. Are the numbers accurate or is the image you posted of the curve accurate?



Oh crap you're right. I told you it's changed a lot in my testing! 

I think the picture is the latest iteration and the numbers are from an earlier test, but then I noticed that the top adjustment didn't seem to matter if it was peaked or at 0, but I didn't have time to test that 100% yet. I think it doesn't matter because I like to clip at about 1,000 nits using R Masciola's patterns and I'm sure that last point is past that, so anything above the clipping point is moot. I'll try to test that too later.

Try both!


----------



## dholmes54

Dave Harper said:


> OK here are the settings, told in menu pictures mostly. I set the menu item to the specific mode it's in instead of AUTO so you can see what it is supposed to be and to make sure it's in that mode specifically to get the proper results. The most important settings are the gamma, contrast and setting it to SDR mode manually instead of HDR. (This is to simulate using a projector/display that isn't HDR capable, like the amazing LS10000, which I want to try this on and will post a similar post there in that thread):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings are, from left to right 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 16, 32.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Panasonic UB900 showing sending HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This puts the clip point for HDR specular highlights/whites at about 1200 nits. If I could've went higher on contrast I would've probably made that clipping point at about 1000 nits.
> 
> You may also want to adjust the color saturation some. That was the last thing I messed with very late last night (or should I say this morning!  ) so it may not be perfect, but it certainly made my jaw drop at that setting watching Ghostbusters!
> 
> If you have an SDR only display you can use an hdfury Linker to trick your source into sending its full HDR signal and then disable the HDR flag on its output to the display. I hope to try this on an LS10000. If anyone here has one or knows someone with one, please refer them here.
> 
> Enjoy and please feel free to tweak as needed and share your results.


I'm not a expert but should contrast be at a 100?


----------



## Dave Harper

dholmes54 said:


> I'm not a expert but should contrast be at a 100?


In this unconventional and weird experiment....yes! Remember we are displaying an HDR signal using SDR signal parameters. I wish, like the amp in Spinal Tap, I could make it go to _11_0, haha! Just as a point of reference, the Sony 4Ks usually have their contrast close to 100, and with its Contrast (HDR) slider, it's usually in the 75-95 range, depending on where you want the clip point.


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> In this unconventional and weird experiment....yes! Remember we are displaying an HDR signal using SDR signal parameters. I wish, like the amp in Spinal Tap, I could make it go to _11_0, haha! Just as a point of reference, the Sony 4Ks usually have their contrast close to 100, and with its Contrast (HDR) slider, it's usually in the 75-95 range, depending on where you want the clip point.


Speaking of high contrast, I was testing out Mad Max UHD last night and I can't bring myself to lower the contrast in bright cinema mode below 65. 
Some HDR movies like Batman V. Superman, I'll have it up at 80. 
Color saturation is the same story for me with this projector. I usually have it in bright cinema mode with saturation up at 80. Looks wonderful. Then when you hit the default button on the remote on color sat, you can see just how much beautiful color you lose at the 50 mark. 

Color saturation and contrast must be way boosted on this PJ with UHD for my particular tastes. If i'm not using custom gamma, i use the +2 option along with those high color and high contrast figures. Ever since doing this along with the new 1.09 update, I am thrilled about the UHD blu rays. I don't even want to buy the standard blu rays any more.


----------



## Dave Harper

Have you checked those with any test patterns, or is that just personal preference really?


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> Have you checked those with any test patterns, or is that just personal preference really?


Just personal preferences so far. My eye is becoming better at looking for clipping though. 
This is my first high end PJ. I just bought it in January and for 7 years before that I was using an Epson EX70 720p Multimedia PJ, so it's been a YUGE improvement even with standard factory settings to say the least.


----------



## Dave Harper

Has anyone else seen this new FW update for the Panasonic UB900 UHD Bluray player? It supposedly now offers forcing 10 bit output , but more importantly gives a new HDR Brightness Range adjustment (similar to the Sony VW675ES' Contrast (HDR) Slider) to increase the brightness of the entire HDR image. This could be a boon to us 5040/6040 owners that want to use Digital Cinema mode to preserve the rec2020 WCG filter for true DCI-P3 colors! This could allow the image to be bright enough too now! I can't wait to try this out! 












http://av.jpn.support.panasonic.com/support/global/cs/bd/download/ub900/ub900_us.html 

http://av.jpn.support.panasonic.com/support/global/cs/bd/download/ub900/information_NTSC_eng.pdf 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...asonic-dmp-ub900-thread-110.html#post52211577


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> Has anyone else seen this new FW update for the Panasonic UB900 UHD Bluray player? It supposedly now offers forcing 10 bit output , but more importantly gives a new HDR Brightness Range adjustment (similar to the Sony VW675ES' Contrast (HDR) Slider) to increase the brightness of the entire HDR image. This could be a boon to us 5040/6040 owners that want to use Digital Cinema mode to preserve the rec2020 WCG filter for true DCI-P3 colors! This could allow the image to be bright enough too now! I can't wait to try this out!
> 
> http://av.jpn.support.panasonic.com/support/global/cs/bd/download/ub900/ub900_us.html
> http://av.jpn.support.panasonic.com/support/global/cs/bd/download/ub900/information_NTSC_eng.pdf
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...asonic-dmp-ub900-thread-110.html#post52211577


WELL ****! I just bought the Philips player 2 months ago. That HDR slider sounds interesting!


----------



## Dave Harper

Evan201 said:


> WELL ****! I just bought the Philips player 2 months ago. That HDR slider sounds interesting!


Time for an upgrade!


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> Time for an upgrade!


Think it would be possible for Philips to add that into a firmware update with enough pestering their IT department?


----------



## Evan201

Maybe I'll go to Best Buy with my elite status and buy the Panasonic UB900 to see what the new HDR brightness option offers and return it if it's nothing special.


----------



## swyda038

Image is Jittery when using 4k 24hz on NVidia

I've had the projector for a few weeks now and I've noticed some imagery (particularly expansive panning shots) that the image is jittery or juddering. It is enough to be distracting from the image. I am using the NVidia Shield with the 4k 24hz setting which was the setting suggested by people on the forum to get the BT 2020 color range. I notice it when I am playing Planet Earth 2 on the NVidia. When I change the setting to 4k 60hz the jittering goes away, but I notice a decrease in color range/quality. My AVR is the Yamaha RX-V679BL 7.2-Channel MusicCast AV Receiver with Bluetooth

Is anyone else experiencing this? Any thoughts/suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!


----------



## Evan201

swyda038 said:


> Image is Jittery when using 4k 24hz on NVidia
> 
> I've had the projector for a few weeks now and I've noticed some imagery (particularly expansive panning shots) that the image is jittery or juddering. It is enough to be distracting from the image. I am using the NVidia Shield with the 4k 24hz setting which was the setting suggested by people on the forum to get the BT 2020 color range. I notice it when I am playing Planet Earth 2 on the NVidia. When I change the setting to 4k 60hz the jittering goes away, but I notice a decrease in color range/quality. My AVR is the Yamaha RX-V679BL 7.2-Channel MusicCast AV Receiver with Bluetooth
> 
> Is anyone else experiencing this? Any thoughts/suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!


With the shield, it seems to be all about the source. Netflix has less problems than other apps I've noticed. FOXNOW app was terrible on certain movies. Switched and watched some stuff on netflix and no jutter. Jutter is why I'm now buying 4k UHD discs for the best quality possible of motion and details.


----------



## ken8

Just want to bounce something off you guys, I'm downunder and got an 8300/5040ub the other day and the 3D is great as far as ghosting and crosstalk is concerned but the damn thing has faint diagonal lines running through it in 3D mode only. 2D is fine and looks great. It's not the glasses because you can see them when you're not wearing them. Have tried 4k cables, swapping players and plugging everything into the same power pack but it's doing my head in. Have rung Epson and lodged a ticket but now it's Easter not expecting to hear back from them for a while

Thanks and have a great Easter break everyone


----------



## Dave Harper

ken8 said:


> Just want to bounce something off you guys, I'm downunder and got an 8300/5040ub the other day and the 3D is great as far as ghosting and crosstalk is concerned but the damn thing has faint diagonal lines running through it in 3D mode only. 2D is fine and looks great. It's not the glasses because you can see them when you're not wearing them. Have tried 4k cables, swapping players and plugging everything into the same power pack but it's doing my head in. Have rung Epson and lodged a ticket but now it's Easter not expecting to hear back from them for a while
> 
> Thanks and have a great Easter break everyone


I wonder if your 50Hz AC power has anything to do with it? I have seen AC and noisy/bad/mismatched power do some weird things with electronics over my career!


----------



## bmock17

need some help with my screen size. Apparently i am an idiot and cannot figure out how to use these throw calculators. My distance from lens to screen is 148 inches, or 12 ft 4 inches. I currently have a 110 inch screen and we sit about 11 feet from the screen. I am wanting to go bigger but when i try to use these calculators i am getting results saying the larges i can go is 106 inches. Obviously i know that is incorrect because i am at 110 inch screen now. Can anyone help me with this and tell me how big i can go from 12 ft 4 inches with the 5040?

Thanks in advance for the help!


----------



## Al O

bmock17 said:


> need some help with my screen size. Apparently i am an idiot and cannot figure out how to use these throw calculators. My distance from lens to screen is 148 inches, or 12 ft 4 inches. I currently have a 110 inch screen and we sit about 11 feet from the screen. I am wanting to go bigger but when i try to use these calculators i am getting results saying the larges i can go is 106 inches. Obviously i know that is incorrect because i am at 110 inch screen now. Can anyone help me with this and tell me how big i can go from 12 ft 4 inches with the 5040?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help!


120" 16:9 screen, throw range will be 11' 10" to 24' 10"


----------



## bmock17

Al O said:


> 120" 16:9 screen, throw range will be 11' 10" to 24' 10"


Thank you. So that is the biggest? I was looking at a 135" 16:9 but i guess that will not work. I wonder if it is even worth buying a new screen to go go 10" bigger.


----------



## Al O

bmock17 said:


> Thank you. So that is the biggest? I was looking at a 135" 16:9 but i guess that will not work. I wonder if it is even worth buying a new screen to go go 10" bigger.


For 135" you will need to move the projector any place from 13' 3" to 27' 11" a foot back


----------



## bmock17

Al O said:


> For 135" you will need to move the projector any place from 13' 3" to 27' 11" a foot back


Got it. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## ken8

Dave Harper said:


> I wonder if your 50Hz AC power has anything to do with it? I have seen AC and noisy/bad/mismatched power do some weird things with electronics over my career!


Thanks for that. The odd thing is I don't have that problem with my 5020 in the same configuration. I had an in home demo of a 6600 Epson and that was displaying the same problem and thought it was a fault with that unit


----------



## ChrisRex

swyda038 said:


> Image is Jittery when using 4k 24hz on NVidia
> 
> I've had the projector for a few weeks now and I've noticed some imagery (particularly expansive panning shots) that the image is jittery or juddering. It is enough to be distracting from the image. I am using the NVidia Shield with the 4k 24hz setting which was the setting suggested by people on the forum to get the BT 2020 color range. I notice it when I am playing Planet Earth 2 on the NVidia. When I change the setting to 4k 60hz the jittering goes away, but I notice a decrease in color range/quality. My AVR is the Yamaha RX-V679BL 7.2-Channel MusicCast AV Receiver with Bluetooth
> 
> Is anyone else experiencing this? Any thoughts/suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!


What app are you using to display this? I noticed the same thing when using Kodi, but if you got into settings and set it to 'force display resolution' (Possibly under 'performance?' I can double check tomorrow), it will eliminate the judder while keeping 24fps HDR signal. Found this through trial and error after finding myself in the same position you were in


----------



## Evan201

Can anyone with a Panasonic UB900 post a video to youtube showing how effective the new HDR brightness adjustment is in the new firmware update?


----------



## Dave Harper

I'll try to post or send a video tonight for you.


----------



## swyda038

ChrisRex said:


> What app are you using to display this? I noticed the same thing when using Kodi, but if you got into settings and set it to 'force display resolution' (Possibly under 'performance?' I can double check tomorrow), it will eliminate the judder while keeping 24fps HDR signal. Found this through trial and error after finding myself in the same position you were in


Thanks for the reply.

I bought the Planet Earth 2 movie through the google tv & movie app that came with NVidia Shield. Is there a way on that app to force display or is there a way to use the Kodi app to play a movie I purchased with the google tv/movie app?

Thanks for your input!


----------



## swyda038

Evan201 said:


> With the shield, it seems to be all about the source. Netflix has less problems than other apps I've noticed. FOXNOW app was terrible on certain movies. Switched and watched some stuff on netflix and no jutter. Jutter is why I'm now buying 4k UHD discs for the best quality possible of motion and details.


Thanks for the reply.

I currently am using a wired hdmi connection, but I do have a UBE unit with wireless capability. If I switched to using the wireless transmitter, would that solve the problem or is it specifically about the source information?


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> I'll try to post or send a video tonight for you.


You're the man Dave. Can't wait to see this update.


----------



## Joe.Swirls

Hey everyone,

I posted this in another forum but was advised to ask it here:

I'm trying to decide if the 5040UB is right for me. I'll be using it in a living room environment with an ALR screen. There seems to be a large discrepancy in reported lumens for bright cinema mode. ProjectorReviews.com measured 1115 lumens and projectorcentral.com measured 1863 lumens in medium lamp setting. Is there a consensus in the community on light output of this projector?

http://www.projectorreviews.com/eps...-brightness-different-modes-and-lamp-settings

http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review.htm?page=Performance

Thanks.


----------



## Evan201

Joe.Swirls said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I posted this in another forum but was advised to ask it here:
> 
> I'm trying to decide if the 5040UB is right for me. I'll be using it in a living room environment with an ALR screen. There seems to be a large discrepancy in reported lumens for bright cinema mode. ProjectorReviews.com measured 1115 lumens and projectorcentral.com measured 1863 lumens in medium lamp setting. Is there a consensus in the community on light output of this projector?
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/eps...-brightness-different-modes-and-lamp-settings
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review.htm?page=Performance
> 
> Thanks.


I have an Elite Screens Custom Cinegrey 5d 105" screen mounted 12' away from the PJ in a living room setup and its terrific. You won't be disappointed with the outcome. Especially when the lamp is on High when viewing HDR. I only run ECO mode for SDR. Looks incredible.


----------



## Joe.Swirls

Evan201 said:


> I have an Elite Screens Custom Cinegrey 5d 105" screen mounted 12' away from the PJ in a living room setup and its terrific. You won't be disappointed with the outcome. Especially when the lamp is on High when viewing HDR. I only run ECO mode for SDR. Looks incredible.


Thanks Evan. Do you use your set-up as a full TV replacement or only when it's dark? Basically, I'm trying to determine if the 5040UB w/an ALR screen will be ok as a total TV replacement in my living room. I'm also considering the Epson 3700 but if Projector Centrals lumen numbers are accurate then the 5040UB in Bright Cinema and high lamp mode get's pretty close to the 3700.


----------



## Evan201

Joe.Swirls said:


> Thanks Evan. Do you use your set-up as a full TV replacement or only when it's dark? Basically, I'm trying to determine if the 5040UB w/an ALR screen will be ok as a total TV replacement in my living room. I'm also considering the Epson 3700 but if Projector Centrals lumen numbers are accurate then the 5040UB in Bright Cinema and high lamp mode get's pretty close to the 3700.


Yes, my wife and I use it as a complete tv replacement. Golf on the weekends during the day looks fantastic. You'll be pleased. Light coming towards the ALR screen from the 6'oclock position is the worst so if you can help it, remove light from 6oclock because that light will go directly to the screen. Side angle light is the best for AL reduction ability with ALR screens. 
I can private message you a screen shot or two this weekend of how my setup looks with some blinds open. My blinds happen to be at the 6'oclock position in my apartment, but this PJ still handles business.


----------



## Dave Harper

Evan201 said:


> You're the man Dave. Can't wait to see this update.



I didn't get more than about 10 minutes last night in there unfortunately, but I was able to quickly download and install the UB900 FW update. I flicked on the 5040 real quick and the dynamic range adjustment does work! I played those ghostbusters scenes I did the night before using Digital Cinema mode after making adjustments using the R Masciola's HDR UHD test patterns which I have permanently connected to the front USB port on a flash drive. I ended up using DR slider range between 10-12 (12 is max). You have to only use the Normal AUTO setting on the projector's Dynamic Range, Not the AUTO (Bright) setting anymore, or it will blow out you white clipping point down to about 400 nits iirc. I like to clip my HDR between 1,000 and 1,200 nits or so, and this allowed that nicely without blowing out the highs and colors. 

This gives a very pleasing picture that finally looks bright enough using Digital Cinema Mode with the WCG filter engaged. I did a quick comparison with my pseudo HDR using SDR settings and I have to say, the pseudo HDR is da bomb diggity!!! I can't believe the image I am getting with this hack of improper for SDR settings!  The low and high level details and sharpness and realism are astonishing to say the least! I never knew there was that much picture info down there! Watch the final scenes of ghostbusters....wow!

I'll try to do more later though.


----------



## Don Draper

Dynamic range adjustment??? Where is that?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Joe.Swirls

Evan201 said:


> Yes, my wife and I use it as a complete tv replacement. Golf on the weekends during the day looks fantastic. You'll be pleased. Light coming towards the ALR screen from the 6'oclock position is the worst so if you can help it, remove light from 6oclock because that light will go directly to the screen. Side angle light is the best for AL reduction ability with ALR screens.
> I can private message you a screen shot or two this weekend of how my setup looks with some blinds open. My blinds happen to be at the 6'oclock position in my apartment, but this PJ still handles business.


That would be awesome. Thanks again for the info!


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> I didn't get more than about 10 minutes last night in there unfortunately, but I was able to quickly download and install the UB900 FW update. I flicked on the 5040 real quick and the dynamic range adjustment does work! I played those ghostbusters scenes I did the night before using Digital Cinema mode after making adjustments using the R Masciola's HDR UHD test patterns which I have permanently connected to the front USB port on a flash drive. I ended up using DR slider range between 10-12 (12 is max). You have to only use the Normal AUTO setting on the projector's Dynamic Range, Not the AUTO (Bright) setting anymore, or it will blow out you white clipping point down to about 400 nits iirc. I like to clip my HDR between 1,000 and 1,200 nits or so, and this allowed that nicely without blowing out the highs and colors.


Sounds cool. I tried out your Digital Cinema with SDR for HDR content settings last night. I just can't seem to enjoy the dimness of Digital Cinema. 
Tonight i'm going to try the same settings you posted with the forced SDR in signal, but this time with the Natural or Bright Cinema mode instead of Digi Cinema. 

Any way you could post a screen shot of your regular settings, and then a shot with the HDR slider boosted up on the UB900 for comparison? 
Could you possibly do that in the Natural or Bright Cinema with standard HDR signal sent too? I probably wont settle on the Digital Cinema option, but maybe since this new HDR slider is available now and If I go out and buy the UB900 i might. 

Another question, Is the UB900 really $400 better than the Philips player with handling of the UHD dics? Isn't the picture quality rendering from all of the UHD players going to be similar or do they really stand apart from each other enough to justify the major cost differences out there?


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> Yes you're correct.




Would your recommended settings also apply for a "strip HDR" configuration? I have the Oppo 203 where I can strip the HDR metadata, so would it be appropriate to use your settings with stripping?

A few other questions:

1. Are you using Extended HDMI Video or Auto/Normal with SuperWhite ON or OFF?
2. Did you make any changes to the offset/gain for RGB, or leave all at 50?
3. Did you make any changes to RGBCMY for brightness/hue/saturation, or leave all at 50?

Lastly, and I'm asking cause I thought I saw some other posts or threads that support this question:. Isn't changing the projector to SDR on an HDR signal and then trying to calibrate the wrong thing to do? 

Not trying to question your findings at all, I really have no clue what the "correct" approach is or even if there is a "correct" approach --- but IIRC that's why others talk about stripping HDR through the player or integral/linker (whichever is the right one) vs just turning off HDR in the Epson. OR is your suggestion a "good alternative" for those that can't strip the HDR flag?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

spirithockey79 said:


> Would your recommended settings also apply for a "strip HDR" configuration? I have the Oppo 203 where I can strip the HDR metadata, so would it be appropriate to use your settings with stripping?.....


No it wouldn't work for that (if you strip HDR). That's because when you strip it with an Oppo 203 or HDFury device, you make the source do the tone mapping from HDR to SDR, but these settings rely on the display/projector still getting the full HDR/WCG signal to work properly. In your case, the projector is still getting an SDR signal, but it needs HDR for my settings to work.




spirithockey79 said:


> A few other questions:
> 
> 1. Are you using Extended HDMI Video or Auto/Normal with SuperWhite ON or OFF?
> 2. Did you make any changes to the offset/gain for RGB, or leave all at 50?
> 3. Did you make any changes to RGBCMY for brightness/hue/saturation, or leave all at 50?


1. Normal HDMI Video Range with SuperWhite OFF
2. The only change I made to those was to calibrate the greyscale. They have no real impact on the settings I used for pseudo HDR.
3. I set them all back to 50 iirc, but I think initially I had some settings changes in there from prior tests when I did a CMS cal.



spirithockey79 said:


> Lastly, and I'm asking cause I thought I saw some other posts or threads that support this question:. Isn't changing the projector to SDR on an HDR signal and then trying to calibrate the wrong thing to do?


Yes, normally it would be because the parameters of each signal are so vastly different, but I recalled reading a thread here on AVS that discussed "pseudo-HDR", I think from back in 2015/2016. I read it and don't recall there being any actual tests or findings from it though, then I remembered something that was said that gave me a hint to try this theory. Finally, with all this talk of custom gamma curves going on, especially with the JVCs, I tried using Custom Gamma on the 5040 and I found one based on oledurt's gamma that I tweaked and fell in love with! This made me recall the pseudo-HDR discussion and I wondered if doing the reverse custom gamma could work for that (If you look at the custom curve for my settings you will see it is almost a 180 degree mirror image of the JVC and Epson custom curves!). I decided to send HDR to the 5040, put it in SDR mode, knowing initially it would be way out of whack, then just started messing with it using HDR UHD WCG test patterns from R. Masciola's, as well as real world images from The Revenant. It made it MUCH easier since when you're in the Custom Gamma of the Epsons, each point you click on makes that particular gamma range in the image flash on and off, so you know exactly what you're adjusting and can go in and tweak whatever image area seems to not look right!

After hours of tweaking, way into the wee hours of the night, this is what I ended up with. It is still a work in progress though, of course, and I really need others to test it on their 5040/6040's and especially on other models like the LS10000/10500 to see if it crosses model lines, which I think it should given that we are talking playing with a "standard" (SDR) and and not something that's model or upgrade specific.




spirithockey79 said:


> Not trying to question your findings at all, I really have no clue what the "correct" approach is or even if there is a "correct" approach --- but IIRC that's why others talk about stripping HDR through the player or integral/linker (whichever is the right one) vs just turning off HDR in the Epson. OR is your suggestion a "good alternative" for those that can't strip the HDR flag?


Well, considering no one has tried this method before that I know of, and the mish mash that is HDR on projectors currently, I am not sure there really is a "correct method" yet. What I am doing is basically the same thing that the UHD player is doing....tone mapping the HDR signal to SDR. I am just doing it manually after figuring out what needs to happen to the SDR parameters to show an HDR signal correctly on an SDR display.

This is what brings my settings into play actually. If you just "turn off HDR in the Epson", that won't stop the source from still sending the HDR signal. That has to be stripped off by an Oppo or HDFury Device as we all know, if you want to just use standard SDR settings and strip HDR to get an SDR bt2020 signal.

This is indeed a good alternative for those that can't strip the HDR flag, but the problem is, if your display isn't HDR capable then it's EDID will tell the player that, which in turn the player will then do it's own tone mapping, so it won't send the pure HDR WCG 4K signal to your display in the first place for you to apply my pseudo-HDR settings. If your display is like the 5040, where you can just set it to SDR mode instead of HDR, then you can just do that. But if it can't accept HDR at all, like the LS10000, then you need a device like the Linker to spoof your player into sending the full HDR WCG signal. The Linker is great with its new FW (1.09?) that maintains its ability to strip the HDR off and maintain WCG bt2020, but can now also tell the source to send full HDR/WCG and on its output can strip the HDR flag that triggers your display into its HDR mode, so an SDR only display will never know it's actually getting an HDR signal! This feature is also being used by JVC folks to keep the Dynamic Iris operating in HDR mode and to keep it from reverting to Gamma D, which many don't like, from their own custom gamma that was imported.

I am actualy contending also that this tricked out SDR image with an HDR signal actually looks better than doing tone mapping in the source, and I did do a comparison and felt that way. It also seems to be better than actually just using the various HDR modes on the HDR signal, if the display is capable of it, from what I have seen so far! It could be a matter of taste though too, as some may like the darker, dimmer images of HDR modes on their projector. Me, I like when I can pull out the details in the shadows and low APL areas and maintain proper black levels, which this seems to really do, in spades! It also makes the top end whites, highlights and specular flashes look awesome without clipping from what I've seen so far! Seems like the best of both SDR and HDR worlds to me, at least at this juncture in testing. I just really need others to help out too.


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> No it wouldn't work for that (if you strip HDR). That's because when you strip it with an Oppo 203 or HDFury device, you make the source do the tone mapping from HDR to SDR, but these settings rely on the display/projector still getting the full HDR/WCG signal to work properly. In your case, the projector is still getting an SDR signal, but it needs HDR for my settings to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Normal HDMI Video Range with SuperWhite OFF
> 
> 2. The only change I made to those was to calibrate the greyscale. They have no real impact on the settings I used for pseudo HDR.
> 
> 3. I set them all back to 50 iirc, but I think initially I had some settings changes in there from prior tests when I did a CMS cal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, normally it would be because the parameters of each signal are so vastly different, but I recalled reading a thread here on AVS that discussed "pseudo-HDR", I think from back in 2015/2016. I read it and don't recall there being any actual tests or findings from it though, then I remembered something that was said that gave me a hint to try this theory. Finally, with all this talk of custom gamma curves going on, especially with the JVCs, I tried using Custom Gamma on the 5040 and I found one based on oledurt's gamma that I tweaked and fell in love with! This made me recall the pseudo-HDR discussion and I wondered if doing the reverse custom gamma could work for that (If you look at the custom curve for my settings you will see it is almost a 180 degree mirror image of the JVC and Epson custom curves!). I decided to send HDR to the 5040, put it in SDR mode, knowing initially it would be way out of whack, then just started messing with it using HDR UHD WCG test patterns from R. Masciola's, as well as real world images from The Revenant. It made it MUCH easier since when you're in the Custom Gamma of the Epsons, each point you click on makes that particular gamma range in the image flash on and off, so you know exactly what you're adjusting and can go in and tweak whatever image area seems to not look right!
> 
> 
> 
> After hours of tweaking, way into the wee hours of the night, this is what I ended up with. It is still a work in progress though, of course, and I really need others to test it on their 5040/6040's and especially on other models like the LS10000/10500 to see if it crosses model lines, which I think it should given that we are talking playing with a "standard" (SDR) and and not something that's model or upgrade specific.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, considering no one has tried this method before that I know of, and the mish mash that is HDR on projectors currently, I am not sure there really is a "correct method" yet. What I am doing is basically the same thing that the UHD player is doing....tone mapping the HDR signal to SDR. I am just doing it manually after figuring out what needs to happen to the SDR parameters to show an HDR signal correctly on an SDR display.
> 
> 
> 
> This is what brings my settings into play actually. If you just "turn off HDR in the Epson", that won't stop the source from still sending the HDR signal. That has to be stripped off by an Oppo or HDFury Device as we all know, if you want to just use standard SDR settings and strip HDR to get an SDR bt2020 signal.
> 
> 
> 
> This is indeed a good alternative for those that can't strip the HDR flag, but the problem is, if your display isn't HDR capable then it's EDID will tell the player that, which in turn the player will then do it's own tone mapping, so it won't send the pure HDR WCG 4K signal to your display in the first place for you to apply my pseudo-HDR settings. If your display is like the 5040, where you can just set it to SDR mode instead of HDR, then you can just do that. But if it can't accept HDR at all, like the LS10000, then you need a device like the Linker to spoof your player into sending the full HDR WCG signal. The Linker is great with its new FW (1.09?) that maintains its ability to strip the HDR off and maintain WCG bt2020, but can now also tell the source to send full HDR/WCG and on its output can strip the HDR flag that triggers your display into its HDR mode, so an SDR only display will never know it's actually getting an HDR signal! This feature is also being used by JVC folks to keep the Dynamic Iris operating in HDR mode and to keep it from reverting to Gamma D, which many don't like, from their own custom gamma that was imported.
> 
> 
> 
> I am actualy contending also that this tricked out SDR image with an HDR signal actually looks better than doing tone mapping in the source, and I did do a comparison and felt that way. It also seems to be better than actually just using the various HDR modes on the HDR signal, if the display is capable of it, from what I have seen so far! It could be a matter of taste though too, as some may like the darker, dimmer images of HDR modes on their projector. Me, I like when I can pull out the details in the shadows and low APL areas and maintain proper black levels, which this seems to really do, in spades! It also makes the top end whites, highlights and specular flashes look awesome without clipping from what I've seen so far! Seems like the best of both SDR and HDR worlds to me, at least at this juncture in testing. I just really need others to help out too.




Appreciate you taking the time to provide that kind of detail. I'm trying your settings out on the Passengers UHD and I gotta say it's pretty darn good. I do have a question about your brightness settings though. Seems a bit dark with some black crush. Turning it up on mine to about 51 or 52 looks better, or switching to Expanded and bringing brightness down to 42 looks really good. Any reason why you wouldn't want Expandex over Normal for better shadow detail? 

I'm wondering if I should just be using my standard brightness settings for Digital Cinema via my S&M disc. I'm guessing I don't need an HDR signal for that, correct? Is it just as simple as using your settings with the brightness pattern?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

spirithockey79 said:


> Appreciate you taking the time to provide that kind of detail. I'm trying your settings out on the Passengers UHD and I gotta say it's pretty darn good. I do have a question about your brightness settings though. Seems a bit dark with some black crush. Turning it up on mine to about 51 or 52 looks better, or switching to Expanded and bringing brightness down to 42 looks really good. Any reason why you wouldn't want Expandex over Normal for better shadow detail?
> 
> I'm wondering if I should just be using my standard brightness settings for Digital Cinema via my S&M disc. I'm guessing I don't need an HDR signal for that, correct? Is it just as simple as using your settings with the brightness pattern?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Well things like brightness, contrast, color and tint are all system and environment dependent, so I am not shocked that what works in my theater is slightly different in yours. Those things needs to be adjusted in each environment and aren't hard set anywhere really. Try to avoid using Expanded (0-255) with video signals, because they are mastered in limited mode (16-235). PC signals are usually Expanded. I have however tested and seen instances where expanded does seem to help when HDR is involved, but as with anything HDR these days, who really knows, haha! I have heard reports that some engineers from a few brands have told owners that for HDR you are supposed to use Expanded mode, but that seems contradictory to everything being said in the open. I personally have noticed it helping, if that means anything. With that being said, I think when I tried Expanded Mode it may have helped the blacks but it blew out or did something to the white end, so I switched back to Normal. I don't recall exactly what that was though. I'll have to check again.

You shouldn't use an SDR calibration disc for HDR, which is what this essentially is, at least signal wise. I would get the R. Masciola's UHD HDR WCG Test Pattern Suite if I were you and want to mess with HDR. It is money well spent and only like $30 or something. If not, at the very least you can put in a Sony UHD Bluray and at the menu type in 7669 (spells Sony) and it will bring up hidden test patterns to use, although not hardly as extensive as the RM ones.


----------



## Dave Harper

I watched some tivo cable tv on the 5040 last night after our movie (Fences with Denzel Washington and Viola Davis, both giving incredible performances and a great story to boot!!!) I have to say it looked way more pleasing, smooth and natural than I recall this projector looking the first time I owned one a few months ago. 

Did one of the FW updates that were dropped while I was away from this model for a few months happen to help this and the quality of the picture that much, or did something else happen to make the image seem this much improved compared to a few months ago?


----------



## ayrton

Dave Harper said:


> I watched some tivo cable tv on the 5040 last night after our movie (Fences with Denzel Washington and Viola Davis, both giving incredible performances and a great story to boot!!!) I have to say it looked way more pleasing, smooth and natural than I recall this projector looking the first time I owned one a few months ago.
> 
> Did one of the FW updates that were dropped while I was away from this model for a few months happen to help this and the quality of the picture that much, or did something else happen to make the image seem this much improved compared to a few months ago?


I've got around 200 hours on mine and noticed that the quality seems to be getting better too. I was considering getting something else when new stuff came out, now, not so much..

Thanks for all the valuable information you provide Dave!!!


----------



## bommai

I have been spending some limited time with the 5040ub projector. So far good. I got the value view glasses from Amazon today and I watched a couple of scenes from avengers 3D and another IMAX documentary. While it is nice, I do see some cross talk. I think that's what it is. I have never owned 3D stuff before. I have a Sony bd6200 bluray player that supports 3D but avengers won't work with it and I did not try anything else with it. I tried direct connection to projector and still does not work. But my PS4 worked both directly and through my receiver. Also I tried updating the firmware from 108 to 109 but it won't recognize my USB stick. Did not do anything when I plugged it in. Also network cable did not give me any new menus either. What am I missing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

Dave Harper said:


> Has anyone else seen this new FW update for the Panasonic UB900 UHD Bluray player? It supposedly now offers forcing 10 bit output , but more importantly gives a new HDR Brightness Range adjustment (similar to the Sony VW675ES' Contrast (HDR) Slider) to increase the brightness of the entire HDR image. This could be a boon to us 5040/6040 owners that want to use Digital Cinema mode to preserve the rec2020 WCG filter for true DCI-P3 colors! This could allow the image to be bright enough too now! I can't wait to try this out! :


Hi All,
I have to second Dave's comments. The new HDR Brightness Range Adjustment (BRA) slider on the Panasonic UB900 now lets me watch 4k UHD blu-rays in digital cinema mode with P3 colour! Without the BRA slider, digital cinema was too dark. What is quite impressive is that it raises the brightness of the image without raising the black level. Really quite amazing! 

Watched the opening of Spider-Man 2 on UHD blu-ray with the BRA slider set to +6 and the Epson in Digital cinema mode, so getting the full P3 experience. Wow! The reds and blues on Spiderman's suit really pop! It now looks like the image I remember when I saw the movie at our local cinema (shown in 4k and P3 colour). 

I also watched a bit of John Wick in 4k UHD blu-ray. This is quite a dark movie, but now very watchable in digital cinema mode with the BRA slider at +7. I was very surprised how much detail you could see in the dark suits he was wearing.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## Spyderturbo007

I was planning on doing a firmware update on my 5040 today and was wondering if all the settings and lens positions get wiped during the process.

I'm not sure if I should write everything down or not? I can't find anything in the manual on saving the configuration prior to the upgrade process.


----------



## roland6465

Good question- I did my firmware update the day my 6040 wa installed, so I can't help there, but I can offer a time-saver if you need to record your current settings- use your phone camera. Easy-peasy.


----------



## spirithockey79

Spyderturbo007 said:


> I was planning on doing a firmware update on my 5040 today and was wondering if all the settings and lens positions get wiped during the process.
> 
> I'm not sure if I should write everything down or not? I can't find anything in the manual on saving the configuration prior to the upgrade process.




Nope, settings won't be erased 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Thanks. I was able to get the update completed and it kept all my settings. I see people posting a screenshot of their incoming video signal properties. I just hooked up my Oppo and can't find that screen anywhere. I'm probably looking right at it, but I can't even seem to find it in the manual. 

Any suggestions for getting the best picture? I'm not sure if I need to turn on FI or force 4K from the Oppo. I'm lost. 

Thanks!


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Ok, I think I successfully updated via thumb drive. Right?


----------



## spirithockey79

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Thanks. I was able to get the update completed and it kept all my settings. I see people posting a screenshot of their incoming video signal properties. I just hooked up my Oppo and can't find that screen anywhere. I'm probably looking right at it, but I can't even seem to find it in the manual.
> 
> Any suggestions for getting the best picture? I'm not sure if I need to turn on FI or force 4K from the Oppo. I'm lost.
> 
> Thanks!




If you have the Oppo 203, press and hold the info button on the Oppo remote for a few seconds and a screen will pop up. It will show you the output detail from the Oppo and if you scroll down you'll see what Oppo is sending the 5040 based on your Oppo settings. The info on the 5040 will show it as well.

Also, best settings for 5040 seems to be 4:2:2 12bit. In order to use FI on the 5040, you have to set the Oppo setting to Source Direct. I think you can also use custom 1080p. I have my 203 set to Custom UHD, 4:2:2 and then Auto for the bit depth.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Snoogleheimer said:


> Ok, I think I successfully updated via thumb drive. Right?




Yep


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

whmacs said:


> Hi All,
> I have to second Dave's comments. The new HDR Brightness Range Adjustment (BRA) slider on the Panasonic UB900 now lets me watch 4k UHD blu-rays in digital cinema mode with P3 colour! Without the BRA slider, digital cinema was too dark. What is quite impressive is that it raises the brightness of the image without raising the black level. Really quite amazing!
> 
> Watched the opening of Spider-Man 2 on UHD blu-ray with the BRA slider set to +6 and the Epson in Digital cinema mode, so getting the full P3 experience. Wow! The reds and blues on Spiderman's suit really pop! It now looks like the image I remember when I saw the movie at our local cinema (shown in 4k and P3 colour).
> 
> I also watched a bit of John Wick in 4k UHD blu-ray. This is quite a dark movie, but now very watchable in digital cinema mode with the BRA slider at +7. I was very surprised how much detail you could see in the dark suits he was wearing.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen



HOLY HELL THIS SOUNDS INTERESTING! Problem is I bought the Philips player 2 months ago for $180 and the Panasonic UB900 is $600


----------



## Snoogleheimer

spirithockey79 said:


> Yep


Ok, thanks. That was easy.


----------



## Viche

Dave Harper said:


> I watched some tivo cable tv on the 5040 last night after our movie (Fences with Denzel Washington and Viola Davis, both giving incredible performances and a great story to boot!!!) I have to say it looked way more pleasing, smooth and natural than I recall this projector looking the first time I owned one a few months ago.
> 
> Did one of the FW updates that were dropped while I was away from this model for a few months happen to help this and the quality of the picture that much, or did something else happen to make the image seem this much improved compared to a few months ago?





whmacs said:


> Hi All,
> I have to second Dave's comments. The new HDR Brightness Range Adjustment (BRA) slider on the Panasonic UB900 now lets me watch 4k UHD blu-rays in digital cinema mode with P3 colour! Without the BRA slider, digital cinema was too dark. What is quite impressive is that it raises the brightness of the image without raising the black level. Really quite amazing!
> 
> Watched the opening of Spider-Man 2 on UHD blu-ray with the BRA slider set to +6 and the Epson in Digital cinema mode, so getting the full P3 experience. Wow! The reds and blues on Spiderman's suit really pop! It now looks like the image I remember when I saw the movie at our local cinema (shown in 4k and P3 colour).
> 
> I also watched a bit of John Wick in 4k UHD blu-ray. This is quite a dark movie, but now very watchable in digital cinema mode with the BRA slider at +7. I was very surprised how much detail you could see in the dark suits he was wearing.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


 This seems like something Epson could easily add to the projector via a firmware/software update. What do you think the chances are of that happening?


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> OK here are the settings, told in menu pictures mostly. I set the menu item to the specific mode it's in instead of AUTO so you can see what it is supposed to be and to make sure it's in that mode specifically to get the proper results. The most important settings are the gamma, contrast and setting it to SDR mode manually instead of HDR. (This is to simulate using a projector/display that isn't HDR capable, like the amazing LS10000, which I want to try this on and will post a similar post there in that thread):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings are, from left to right 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 16, 32.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Panasonic UB900 showing sending HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This puts the clip point for HDR specular highlights/whites at about 1200 nits. If I could've went higher on contrast I would've probably made that clipping point at about 1000 nits.
> 
> You may also want to adjust the color saturation some. That was the last thing I messed with very late last night (or should I say this morning!  ) so it may not be perfect, but it certainly made my jaw drop at that setting watching Ghostbusters!
> 
> If you have an SDR only display you can use an hdfury Linker to trick your source into sending its full HDR signal and then disable the HDR flag on its output to the display. I hope to try this on an LS10000. If anyone here has one or knows someone with one, please refer them here.
> 
> Enjoy and please feel free to tweak as needed and share your results.



I have to say, 

These settings for me are proving to be outstanding for HDR viewing. 
I tweaked the settings a tad for my own tastes while using Revenant UHD.

Auto (Bright)
Bright Cinema 
Brightness 48
Contrast 100
Color Sat 100 
Tint 45 
Lamp: High 
Gamma: custom shown above 
Green Adjustment: Saturation 80
Brightness 85

I'm absolutely loving this SDR for HDR setting recipe. Thanks Dave.


----------



## Evan201

Viche said:


> This seems like something Epson could easily add to the projector via a firmware/software update. What do you think the chances are of that happening?


I'm really hoping they do. I'm going to hold off on the UB900 blu ray player until the price comes down. Where can you email them or request it from them?


----------



## spirithockey79

Evan201 said:


> I have to say,
> 
> 
> 
> These settings for me are proving to be outstanding for HDR viewing.
> 
> I tweaked the settings a tad for my own tastes while using Revenant UHD.
> 
> 
> 
> Auto (Bright)
> 
> Bright Cinema
> 
> Brightness 48
> 
> Contrast 100
> 
> Color Sat 100
> 
> Tint 45
> 
> Lamp: High
> 
> Gamma: custom shown above
> 
> Green Adjustment: Saturation 80
> 
> Brightness 85
> 
> 
> 
> I'm absolutely loving this SDR for HDR setting recipe. Thanks Dave.




I thought Dave's settings were really for use with a P3 mode, like Cinema or Digital Cinema? The Bright Cinema setting is already pretty bright, and to use it with SDR with contrast and color at 100 doesn't seem like it would have a very good or accurate picture. But I'm going to try it anyway and see how it looks.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## burton14e7

Sorry if I'm being dense but I've ordered my first projector for my new house being built and so I'm trying to wrap my head around the HDR limitations.

My current understanding is that if I'm using a PC with an Nvidia 1070 GTX and MadVR to play a 4k 4:2:2 HDR10 REC. 2020 file that HDR will be dropped. Is that right?


----------



## Evan201

spirithockey79 said:


> I thought Dave's settings were really for use with a P3 mode, like Cinema or Digital Cinema? The Bright Cinema setting is already pretty bright, and to use it with SDR with contrast and color at 100 doesn't seem like it would have a very good or accurate picture. But I'm going to try it anyway and see how it looks.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


The lowered gamma values really help to keep clipping at bay even when boosting contrast and color that high. Check it out. Revenant looks outstanding to me.


----------



## seplant

Evan201 said:


> I'm really hoping they do. I'm going to hold off on the UB900 blu ray player until the price comes down. Where can you email them or request it from them?


Just go to Epson' s website under Support and you should be able to email them from there or find a support number to call. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## jsil

I see that the Epson 5040ub is on sale for $2499 for how long? Also any 5040ub owners located in SF Bay area interested showing off your projector?


----------



## carlkpro

May I ask you guys for some advices on 5040UB screen choice? I'm considering to replace my Da-Lite 106" 16:9 white screen with an Elite cinegrey3D ALR 135" 16:9. I'm after the better contrast and amibient light performance but have some concern of loss of brightness and the pop I really enjoy with this projector. As expected the screen sample I got indeed show increased contrast but loss of white level. I would like to hear what kind of screens people are using with this projector and what do you think of my choice of the cinegrey screen. I watch mostly cable sports and news and streaming with occasional DVD movies. I know it's still a personal preference but I just couldn't make up my mind.


----------



## RyanChristopher

carlkpro said:


> May I ask you guys for some advices on 5040UB screen choice? I'm considering to replace my Da-Lite 106" 16:9 white screen with an Elite cinegrey3D ALR 135" 16:9. I'm after the better contrast and amibient light performance but have some concern of loss of brightness and the pop I really enjoy with this projector. As expected the screen sample I got indeed show increased contrast but loss of white level. I would like to hear what kind of screens people are using with this projector and what do you think of my choice of the cinegrey screen. I watch mostly cable sports and news and streaming with occasional DVD movies. I know it's still a personal preference but I just couldn't make up my mind.




I've paired my 5040 with a 120" cinegray ALR 16:9 screen. The room I have it in has a huge window directly to the left of the screen and mid day the room is flooded with light. This projector and screen combination is not enough to out power that amount of light but becomes very watchable by simply pulling the blinds. 

In the evening with standard rec709 content the combination is great and at night can almost become slightly too bright for me. I only operate it on ECO mode since my elevation requires High Altitude mode on which can cause the fan to get too loud for my liking on any other lamp setting. 

I have been nothing but thrilled with this projector and screen combination. Obviously if money allows for it in the future I would love to get an SI Black Diamond or Slate screen but for now I am more than happy with my picture. Hope this insight helps. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

I'm using a JKP Da-lite 110" 16x9 .9 gain screen and I find it perfect!


----------



## Geraldius

carlkpro said:


> May I ask you guys for some advices on 5040UB screen choice? I'm considering to replace my Da-Lite 106" 16:9 white screen with an Elite cinegrey3D ALR 135" 16:9. I'm after the better contrast and amibient light performance but have some concern of loss of brightness and the pop I really enjoy with this projector. As expected the screen sample I got indeed show increased contrast but loss of white level. I would like to hear what kind of screens people are using with this projector and what do you think of my choice of the cinegrey screen. I watch mostly cable sports and news and streaming with occasional DVD movies. I know it's still a personal preference but I just couldn't make up my mind.


I'm using that same Elite screen and am very satisfied with its performance in my light controlled dedicated theater room. However I'm somewhat dissatisfied with the quality. There are several slight defects in the ALR coating that show up plainly under a bright white scene. Resembles as if someone's doodled zig zags on the screen with a fingertip, but close inspection indicates irregularities in the coating.


----------



## hnupe

Can someone show me where I can get to the following setting?

4k : HDR BT2020 4:2:2

Or is this just the type of 4K disc you have?


----------



## covsound1

you can get a good picture with sdr and gamma adjustments but if you own a panny player with the new update whats the point. i will even say there are more than one way to skin a cat to get the same result. the idea behind sdr for hdr projectors was to get more light output. with the panny running as a processor and hdr nit mapping combined with epson custom gamma you have all the control you need to throw a more than respectable hdr image.


----------



## Dave Harper

Viche said:


> This seems like something Epson could easily add to the projector via a firmware/software update. What do you think the chances are of that happening?



Well, Sony did it for their VW365/665ES models after the 675 came out and offered it, so there may be the possibility of Epson being able to with the 5040/6040 too, depending on hardware limitations. 


To me, after my HDR on SDR tweaks and also the UB900 HDR tone brightness slider, it seems easy to rectify now. Just either get a UB900, or if that's too expensive for your budget, use your current UHD Bluray player to send HDR WCG to the Epson and then apply my settings using SDR and....voila!



Evan201 said:


> I'm really hoping they do. I'm going to hold off on the UB900 blu ray player until the price comes down. Where can you email them or request it from them?



You can always find a used one. I remember seeing tons of them for great deals when the Oppo 203 dropped. 





spirithockey79 said:


> I thought Dave's settings were really for use with a P3 mode, like Cinema or Digital Cinema? The Bright Cinema setting is already pretty bright, and to use it with SDR with contrast and color at 100 doesn't seem like it would have a very good or accurate picture. But I'm going to try it anyway and see how it looks.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Yes it's designed around a P3 mode like Digital Cinema or Cinema. It does seem to me that Evan201's settings are quite high and probably over processed, but it sounds like that's how he likes his picture, so have at it and enjoy, I say. 



covsound1 said:


> you can get a good picture with sdr and gamma adjustments but if you own a panny player with the new update whats the point. i will even say there are more than one way to skin a cat to get the same result. the idea behind sdr for hdr projectors was to get more light output. with the panny running as a processor and hdr nit mapping combined with epson custom gamma you have all the control you need to throw a more than respectable hdr image.


I actually compared it both ways with my UB900 and it was better with the pseudo HDR on SDR settings. I used my tweaked Oledurt's custom gamma too and have played with it some too. I think it's because when you use the tone brightness adjustment slider, it's coarsely raising the whole range between the end points. I agree maybe with some further gamma tweaks it could really be something though. 

I don't know, but there's just something about this HDR using SDR thing that just makes this projector sing and seems to hit its sweet spot, that's for sure! It totally preserves the high and low ends and the detail presented in between is just astonishing, without any white clipping or low black crushing. You see tons of high white details and low black details in the shadows, and to top it off the mids just pop and kill it man!  

This actually reminds me of when in the CRT projector days we started using 48Hz for movies (24fps x 2, same as theater's film projectors) and it really brought out the details and sharpness and brought this true to life looking, clear and detailed image with tons of depth on screen, besides of course the 24Hz flicker that was kinda cool, like being at the theater watching real film. 

This mode has this analog CRT quality and gamma look to it, with the benefits of what digitalis bring now, is the best way I can describe it.


----------



## covsound1

will give it another go with sdr mode. thankyou for your insight really like the commit (analog crt quality).


----------



## Evan201

covsound1 said:


> will give it another go with sdr mode. thankyou for your insight really like the commit (analog crt quality).


These settings are AWESOME for Revenant and Martian. Looking like the best option for all UHD discs I've seen yet.


----------



## carlkpro

Thanks everyone. After more experimentation I think at 135" I still could appreciate more contrast than I need brightness. Cinegrey it will be.


----------



## inspector

hnupe said:


> Can someone show me where I can get to the following setting?
> 
> 4k : HDR BT2020 4:2:2
> 
> Or is this just the type of 4K disc you have?


In MENU under INFO...post 7279. If you have a 4K UBD player and your cable is the right one.


----------



## Dave Harper

Evan201 said:


> These settings are AWESOME for Revenant and Martian. Looking like the best option for all UHD discs I've seen yet.



Thanks, that's starting to be my thoughts too. Do you have Ghostbusters 2016?

Yes I forgot to mention The Martian! I demoed that on Friday night real late and I couldn't believe what I was seeing actually!!! It blew away every other time I'm watched this movie, on every other projector, and that includes the Sony 675ES native 4K and the current JVC RS600 I have here now. I know I'll get crap and trolls jumping in here for me saying that, but it's 100% true! I've seen scores and scores of great video and film images in my career since about 1988 and I know what great images look like. Now I do admit, I never tried these total types of tweaks on those projectors yet, but I did do some fun ones on the Sony calling it the "HarperVision Experience", but I wish I had it back to try this in it now. I will mess with the RS600 though, now that I have it down pretty well on the 5040. Those, if compatible, will probably kill the 5040 after some good settings are found. 



covsound1 said:


> will give it another go with sdr mode. thankyou for your insight really like the commit (analog crt quality).



I forgot to say, when we did 48Hz, I think the great effect was due to the electron beam of the CRT slowing down some giving it more time to paint the image and hit the CRT face's phosphor longer and deeper, creating these nice pleasing images. Maybe this also does something similar with the gamma or the way the LCD panels are driven, hitting their sweet spot or something?


----------



## JewDaddy

spirithockey79 said:


> If you have the Oppo 203, press and hold the info button on the Oppo remote for a few seconds and a screen will pop up. It will show you the output detail from the Oppo and if you scroll down you'll see what Oppo is sending the 5040 based on your Oppo settings. The info on the 5040 will show it as well.
> 
> Also, best settings for 5040 seems to be 4:2:2 12bit. In order to use FI on the 5040, you have to set the Oppo setting to Source Direct. I think you can also use custom 1080p. I have my 203 set to Custom UHD, 4:2:2 and then Auto for the bit depth.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Is it possible yet to watch a 4K UHD movie and have FI enabled?? I love the picture this puts out and have no complaints about HDR with digital cinema being too dim. I do however miss having FI enabled while watching a 4K source. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ken8

Hi guys, just an update on the 3D diagonal banding issues on my 5040, Epson are happy to write the unit off as DOA but having tried everything I want to try one more thing. I grabbed the latest firmware update from the US site (none available down here in Aust) but I'm unsure as to how to apply it. I know you put it on a USB stick but there's so much conflicting info on updating FW out there

Also, will the US FW be okay on an Aussie model?

Thanks for your time


----------



## whmacs

ken8 said:


> Hi guys, just an update on the 3D diagonal banding issues on my 5040, Epson are happy to write the unit off as DOA but having tried everything I want to try one more thing. I grabbed the latest firmware update from the US site (none available down here in Aust) but I'm unsure as to how to apply it. I know you put it on a USB stick but there's so much conflicting info on updating FW out there
> 
> Also, will the US FW be okay on an Aussie model?
> 
> Thanks for your time


Hi Ken8,
The lastest firmware (v1.09) is available on the Australian web site.
http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp

Just go to downloads for the 9300 then 'All'. It is at the bottom of the page.

Unzip the firmware to a USB formatted in fat32. Plug it into the middle USB port on the back of the Epson. Hold down the power button on the side of the projector while you turn on power to the Epson. Firmware update will start automatically. Update takes about 10mins.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## Spyderturbo007

spirithockey79 said:


> If you have the Oppo 203, press and hold the info button on the Oppo remote for a few seconds and a screen will pop up. It will show you the output detail from the Oppo and if you scroll down you'll see what Oppo is sending the 5040 based on your Oppo settings. The info on the 5040 will show it as well.
> 
> Also, best settings for 5040 seems to be 4:2:2 12bit. In order to use FI on the 5040, you have to set the Oppo setting to Source Direct. I think you can also use custom 1080p. I have my 203 set to Custom UHD, 4:2:2 and then Auto for the bit depth.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I left everything on the Oppo on Auto and the Epson shows 3840x2160 4:2:2 12 Bit, BT.2020 HDR.

Is the recommended setting to leave it on Auto, or set it to Source Direct and turn on FI?


----------



## spirithockey79

JewDaddy said:


> Is it possible yet to watch a 4K UHD movie and have FI enabled?? I love the picture this puts out and have no complaints about HDR with digital cinema being too dim. I do however miss having FI enabled while watching a 4K source.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Yes. You would just select Source Direct on the Oppo for a UHD disc and it passes the native resolution of the disc (4k) to the Epson, which does its faux-4k thing but you can then turn on FI.


----------



## spirithockey79

Spyderturbo007 said:


> I left everything on the Oppo on Auto and the Epson shows 3840x2160 4:2:2 12 Bit, BT.2020 HDR.
> 
> Is the recommended setting to leave it on Auto, or set it to Source Direct and turn on FI?




I've gone back and forth between Auto, Custom, and Source Direct and really can't tell a difference on PQ. So if you want to use FI then you would have to use Source Direct. I don't use FI that much so have been keeping at Custom UHD, 4:2:2, Auto for bit depth


----------



## Snoogleheimer

whmacs said:


> Hi Ken8,
> The lastest firmware (v1.09) is available on the Australian web site.
> http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp
> 
> Just go to downloads for the 9300 then 'All'. It is at the bottom of the page.
> 
> Unzip the firmware to a USB formatted in fat32. Plug it into the middle USB port on the back of the Epson. Hold down the power button on the side of the projector while you turn on power to the Epson. Firmware update will start automatically. Update takes about 10mins.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


Worked for me.


----------



## Lesmor

Dave Harper said:


> Thanks, that's starting to be my thoughts too. Do you have Ghostbusters 2016?
> 
> Yes I forgot to mention The Martian! I demoed that on Friday night real late and I couldn't believe what I was seeing actually!!! It blew away every other time I'm watched this movie, on every other projector, and that includes the Sony 675ES native 4K and the current JVC RS600 I have here now. I know I'll get crap and trolls jumping in here for me saying that, but it's 100% true! I've seen scores and scores of great video and film images in my career since about 1988 and I know what great images look like. Now I do admit, I never tried these total types of tweaks on those projectors yet, but I did do some fun ones on the Sony calling it the "HarperVision Experience", but I wish I had it back to try this in it now. I will mess with the RS600 though, now that I have it down pretty well on the 5040. Those, if compatible, will probably kill the 5040 after some good settings are found.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to say, when we did 48Hz, I think the great effect was due to the electron beam of the CRT slowing down some giving it more time to paint the image and hit the CRT face's phosphor longer and deeper, creating these nice pleasing images. Maybe this also does something similar with the gamma or the way the LCD panels are driven, hitting their sweet spot or something?


Just waiting for stock to arrive as I am going for a Epson 9300 UK (6040)
Is there a sticky pointing to the settings?


----------



## Spyderturbo007

spirithockey79 said:


> I've gone back and forth between Auto, Custom, and Source Direct and really can't tell a difference on PQ. So if you want to use FI then you would have to use Source Direct. I don't use FI that much so have been keeping at Custom UHD, 4:2:2, Auto for bit depth


What's the benefit of FI? I looked through the manual for the projector, but it doesn't really tell you much.

I know the Epson isn't really 4k, so maybe FI needs to be ON when viewing a 4k signal? 

I'm thinking that without FI turned on, I'm just getting the HDR part and not any increase in resolution. This entire "Not really 4k" thing with a true 4k source has me confused.


----------



## spirithockey79

Spyderturbo007 said:


> What's the benefit of FI? I looked through the manual for the projector, but it doesn't really tell you much.
> 
> I know the Epson isn't really 4k, so maybe FI needs to be ON when viewing a 4k signal?
> 
> I'm thinking that without FI turned on, I'm just getting the HDR part and not any increase in resolution. This entire "Not really 4k" thing with a true 4k source has me confused.




FI has nothing to do with HDR or 4k, it's simply a feature that provides a smoother image when there's a lot of on-screen movement. Some like it, some don't. It was implemented to put the projectors on par with the tv's that have the 120hz/240hz refresh rates. It provides a soap opera looking effect. On low it doesn't look too bad though.

With the right setting on your BD/UHD player (like Source Direct on the Oppo) you can use FI along with the 4k enhancement and HDR.


----------



## JewDaddy

spirithockey79 said:


> Yes. You would just select Source Direct on the Oppo for a UHD disc and it passes the native resolution of the disc (4k) to the Epson, which does its faux-4k thing but you can then turn on FI.




Hmmmmmmmm. Confused and excited to hear this! Lol. Couple questions. Will I still be watching 4k resolution as if I was watching a 4K UHD on my Phillips player or will it be faux 4K on top of faux 4K? Also, will I still get HDR if I do it this way or will I lose that?

One more thing. Has there been an update recently and if so, what changed or improved? And does anyone have a link for the download? Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Sorry to ask this question again but why does it say component on projector info,& I hate doing firmware updates,what does the Epson update help?


----------



## spirithockey79

JewDaddy said:


> Hmmmmmmmm. Confused and excited to hear this! Lol. Couple questions. Will I still be watching 4k resolution as if I was watching a 4K UHD on my Phillips player or will it be faux 4K on top of faux 4K? Also, will I still get HDR if I do it this way or will I lose that?
> 
> One more thing. Has there been an update recently and if so, what changed or improved? And does anyone have a link for the download? Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Not sure what capabilities the Philips has - my comments about using FI was directed at the Oppo as that's what I have experience with. 

See my post above yours; yes you would still get HDR and the 4k enhancement. Good question on the 4k on top of 4k, but I'll let smarter people than me respond to how that works. 

I do know that when setting the Oppo to Source Direct it simply sends whatever resolution the disc is. So if watching a BR, it will send 1080p and the Epson would apply its 4k enhancement magic. If the disc is a UHD, it will send 4k to the Epson. I believe the Epson will automatically do its 4k enhancement magic, cause when it received a 4k signal the 4k enhancement feature is greyed out.

For update, I'm assuming you are talking about the Epson. I think we are still on 1.09 FW.


----------



## JewDaddy

spirithockey79 said:


> Not sure what capabilities the Philips has - my comments about using FI was directed at the Oppo as that's what I have experience with.
> 
> See my post above yours; yes you would still get HDR and the 4k enhancement. Good question on the 4k on top of 4k, but I'll let smarter people than me respond to how that works.
> 
> I do know that when setting the Oppo to Source Direct it simply sends whatever resolution the disc is. So if watching a BR, it will send 1080p and the Epson would apply its 4k enhancement magic. If the disc is a UHD, it will send 4k to the Epson. I believe the Epson will automatically do its 4k enhancement magic, cause when it received a 4k signal the 4k enhancement feature is greyed out.
> 
> For update, I'm assuming you are talking about the Epson. I think we are still on 1.09 FW.




Oh. I thought you have the new Panasonic people were mentioning with the update that allows for a brighter HDR image. So the source direct option you're referring to is on the Oppo, not the panasonic? 

As far as the source direct option is concerned, the oppo doesn't allow HDR and native 4k resolution with the 4K enhancement greyed out on the projector with FI or it does? I can set my Phillips resolution to 1080p and play a 4K UHD at a 1080p resolution and 4K enhancement on but no HDR and have FI. I was hoping there's a way to get a Native 4K resolution with HDR and FI. Not 4K enhancement. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jay13

I have a Epson 6500UB and am thinking of upgrading to the 5040UB. Given that both are (inherently) native 1920x1080, will I really see a $2,700 difference with the 5040? 

I'm pretty sure the answer is "no" if I keep my existing Samsung Bluray player and my Aventage A-710, but the answer changes to "depends on how much money you want to spend" assuming I'm willing to spring for the UDP-800 or an OPPO and the Yamaha Aventage 2060 also.

PS - I'm pretty locked into the 5040UB - anything but a white Epson will tip my wife off to the upgrade.

Thx


----------



## spirithockey79

JewDaddy said:


> Oh. I thought you have the new Panasonic people were mentioning with the update that allows for a brighter HDR image. So the source direct option you're referring to is on the Oppo, not the panasonic?
> 
> As far as the source direct option is concerned, the oppo doesn't allow HDR and native 4k resolution with the 4K enhancement greyed out on the projector with FI or it does? I can set my Phillips resolution to 1080p and play a 4K UHD at a 1080p resolution and 4K enhancement on but no HDR and have FI. I was hoping there's a way to get a Native 4K resolution with HDR and FI. Not 4K enhancement.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Apologies, hope I didn't confuse things. I don't have the Panasonic, I have the Oppo 203. I did send a note to Oppo asking if they were looking at implementing a brightness range adjustment slider similar to the Panasonic for HDR, but I'm not confident based on their response. They said "the Oppo can already do this with the target luminance slider". The problem is that slider only works for stripping HDR. 

Anyway, on the Oppo I can watch HDR and use FI on the Epson if I set the Oppo video output to Custom 1080p. I know the Oppo is downscaling a UHD and then the Epson is "upscaling" with the 4k enhancement so one would think there is too much unnecessary processing going on, but honestly the picture looks the same to me. 

If you use either Source Direct or Custom UHD on the Oppo for a UHD you can't use FI. It's only when using custom 1080p. So my earlier statement with Source Direct was incorrect. 

I believe on native 4k sent from a UHD player will require the Epson's 4k enhancement be turned on - its greyed out cause you can't turn it off. 

So I can get HDR with FI on a 4k UHD disc, but only by using 1080p.


----------



## ElectricTater

Good morning everyone. 

I'm looking at getting a 6040 UB for a 120'' screen that I already have. The question I have is this. 

Is there an optimum distance from screen to lens for this projector with a 120'' screen? I have the flexibility to mount it almost anywheres in the 11'9''-24' range that the projector calls for, for this screen size. 

Thanks in advance


Rodger


----------



## Spyderturbo007

spirithockey79 said:


> FI has nothing to do with HDR or 4k, it's simply a feature that provides a smoother image when there's a lot of on-screen movement. Some like it, some don't. It was implemented to put the projectors on par with the tv's that have the 120hz/240hz refresh rates. It provides a soap opera looking effect. On low it doesn't look too bad though.
> 
> With the right setting on your BD/UHD player (like Source Direct on the Oppo) you can use FI along with the 4k enhancement and HDR.


Ah, the soap opera effect. That drives me up a wall. 

Do I need to turn on 4k enhancement, or is it on by default? I'm assuming that using Auto on the Oppo will send 4k when I put in a UltraHD disk and 1080p when I load a normal disk?


----------



## spirithockey79

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Ah, the soap opera effect. That drives me up a wall.
> 
> Do I need to turn on 4k enhancement, or is it on by default? I'm assuming that using Auto on the Oppo will send 4k when I put in a UltraHD disk and 1080p when I load a normal disk?




I believe 4k enhancement is on by default, but you can just check the Image Enhancement menu on the Epson to be sure. When playing a 4k UHD disc, the 4k enhancement option will be greyed out so you can't turn it off. If you use Auto, it will upscale Blu-ray to 4k and send that to the Epson, and you can't use FI. If you want to just send 1080p to the Epson from a 1080p disc, which essentially forces the Epson to do all the 4k magic then use Source Direct. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

spirithockey79 said:


> Apologies, hope I didn't confuse things. I don't have the Panasonic, I have the Oppo 203. I did send a note to Oppo asking if they were looking at implementing a brightness range adjustment slider similar to the Panasonic for HDR, but I'm not confident based on their response. They said "the Oppo can already do this with the target luminance slider". The problem is that slider only works for stripping HDR.
> 
> Anyway, on the Oppo I can watch HDR and use FI on the Epson if I set the Oppo video output to Custom 1080p. I know the Oppo is downscaling a UHD and then the Epson is "upscaling" with the 4k enhancement so one would think there is too much unnecessary processing going on, but honestly the picture looks the same to me.
> 
> If you use either Source Direct or Custom UHD on the Oppo for a UHD you can't use FI. It's only when using custom 1080p. So my earlier statement with Source Direct was incorrect.
> 
> I believe on native 4k sent from a UHD player will require the Epson's 4k enhancement be turned on - its greyed out cause you can't turn it off.
> 
> So I can get HDR with FI on a 4k UHD disc, but only by using 1080p.




No worries! I completely missed in your first response that you mentioned having an Oppo. Everything you said makes total sense and I appreciate you explaining how that works on the Oppo. I can also turn my Phillips to 1080p and use FI with 4K enhancement but I just lose the HDR. I was more concerned with keeping the native 4K resolution and having FI work that without having to use the 4K enhancement option. I notice a difference with a native 4K source having better sharpness and clarity than a 1080p source with 4k enhancement. 

Oh well, maybe the next Epson will allow a native 4K source to work with FI. I was just hoping maybe Epson would release a firmware update to allow that. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Jay13 said:


> PS - I'm pretty locked into the 5040UB - anything but a white Epson will tip my wife off to the upgrade.


LMAO! I think the 5040ub is quite a bit larger too. Good luck.


----------



## Evan201

RESPONSE FROM EPSON REGARDING HDR BRIGHTNESS SLIDER FIRMWARE UPDATE IN THE FUTURE: 

My INQUIRY: 
I own the 5040ub projector and have it combined with a UHD blu ray player for HDR content. My question is, does Epson have plans for future firmware update to add an HDR brightness meter adjustment? Other brands UHD players and projectors such as Sony have added this HDR brightness slider option since the entrance of UHD HDR blu rays coming into the market. Thank you in advance for your assistance.

EPSON RESPONSE: 
Hi Evan,
Epson has no plans to make a "slider" for brightness adjustment, but there is a firmware update at https://epson.com/Support/wa00805 that adds "auto bright" to the setting.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

spirithockey79 said:


> I believe 4k enhancement is on by default, but you can just check the Image Enhancement menu on the Epson to be sure. When playing a 4k UHD disc, the 4k enhancement option will be greyed out so you can't turn it off. If you use Auto, it will upscale Blu-ray to 4k and send that to the Epson, and you can't use FI. If you want to just send 1080p to the Epson from a 1080p disc, which essentially forces the Epson to do all the 4k magic then use Source Direct.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That makes complete sense, thank you. 

Would having the Oppo upscale to 4k and then the Epson do whatever it does be better or worse than sending the Epson 1080p and just having one source of picture manipulation?


----------



## Dave Harper

dholmes54 said:


> Sorry to ask this question again but why does it say component on projector info,& I hate doing firmware updates,what does the Epson update help?



Most likely because its HDMI is receiving a digital component signal (YCbCr, but RGB is actually a form of component video as well, the most true form actually, as it's broken down to its 5 raw "components" of Red, Green, Blue, H sync and V sync).



Lesmor said:


> Just waiting for stock to arrive as I am going for a Epson 9300 UK (6040)
> 
> Is there a sticky pointing to the settings?



No sticky, but here's a link:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017


----------



## ronin1000

carlkpro said:


> May I ask you guys for some advices on 5040UB screen choice? I'm considering to replace my Da-Lite 106" 16:9 white screen with an Elite cinegrey3D ALR 135" 16:9. I'm after the better contrast and amibient light performance but have some concern of loss of brightness and the pop I really enjoy with this projector. As expected the screen sample I got indeed show increased contrast but loss of white level. I would like to hear what kind of screens people are using with this projector and what do you think of my choice of the cinegrey screen. I watch mostly cable sports and news and streaming with occasional DVD movies. I know it's still a personal preference but I just couldn't make up my mind.


I have had the 5040 UB for two days and have been absolutely thrilled with it. It’s mounted 11’6” (for max brightness) from a DIY Car'ls ALR (1.5 gain) 117” 16:9 screen in a light controlled media room. Even with lots of ambient light from a skylight with the shade opened, the picture looks like a gigantic LCD screen on Bright Cinema Medium setting. 

As long as your ambient light source is not directly behind the projector, the ALR screen should really improve the picture. The Cinegray3d has a 1.2 gain so you will not lose brightness vs your DA Lite (1.1 gain), in fact brightness will increase slightly. Contrast should be improved as well. The only downside with an ALR is that during white scenes, the ALR coating creates a slight sugary shimmer. At least for the Carl's ALR.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs Dave!


----------



## Jay13

Snoogleheimer said:


> LMAO! I think the 5040ub is quite a bit larger too. Good luck.


 Well, i just got home and found out I had the wrong model number (I went from memory and a replacement bulb part no. which I had on an old receipt). I actually have an 8700ub). So yes, the 5040 is (still) a little bigger, but I might get away with it. 

So, revised question - what is your opinion on upgrading from an 8700 to a 5040? From what I've read here, it'll be a few years before true native 4k projectors come down in price and more 4k content is available. I'm hoping the 5040 will tide me over.

Thanks much for any thoughts.

Jay


----------



## ayrton

Jay13 said:


> Well, i just got home and found out I had the wrong model number (I went from memory and a replacement bulb part no. which I had on an old receipt). I actually have an 8700ub). So yes, the 5040 is (still) a little bigger, but I might get away with it.
> 
> So, revised question - what is your opinion on upgrading from an 8700 to a 5040? From what I've read here, it'll be a few years before true native 4k projectors come down in price and more 4k content is available. I'm hoping the 5040 will tide me over.
> 
> Thanks much for any thoughts.
> 
> Jay


Don't know about Snoogleheimer, but that's what I'm doing. Very happy with my 5040 even HDR..


----------



## Craig Peer

Epson has the 5040UB back on sale for $ 2499.99 ( and the " e " model for $ 2799.99 ), maybe to celebrate tax day ! The sale ends April 29th - just FYI. A good time to buy if you missed the previous sale.


----------



## 3DBob

Can someone help answer this quickly? I received my 5040UB, and it shows in the manual a plastic cover for the back that can be attached to hide the inputs, etc. But there was not cover in the box. Is this an additional accessory? Thanks.


----------



## robc1976

I want the projector behind my 2nd row of seats and that is 23ft, will this be fine? I know minimum is 14.5ft for a 2.35 138" screen.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Jay13 said:


> It'll be a few years before true native 4k projectors come down in price and more 4k content is available. I'm hoping the 5040 will tide me over.


Actually, some less expensive true 4k PJs are supposed to hit the market later this year. I still couldn't wait, so, went with the 5040ub(new). Mainly because of how well Epson PJs seem to hold their value. This is my first PJ and I am blown away. No doubt I am NEVER going back to panel. 

Anyway, you remind me of an old buddy of mine. He liked the finer things in life like me, however, his wife wasn't too keen on the $$$. I made sure I left quickly after I helped him carry in or set up this or that BEFORE his wife found out how much he spent on them. lol


----------



## Evan201

3DBob said:


> Can someone help answer this quickly? I received my 5040UB, and it shows in the manual a plastic cover for the back that can be attached to hide the inputs, etc. But there was not cover in the box. Is this an additional accessory? Thanks.


If I'm correct, I believe the 5040ub does not include the back plastic cover. I believe only the wireless version and/or 6040 versions include that cover. 
My 5040ub did not include the back cover either.


----------



## Evan201

Snoogleheimer said:


> Actually, some less expensive true 4k PJs are supposed to hit the market later this year. I still couldn't wait, so, went with the 5040ub(new). Mainly because of how well Epson PJs seem to hold their value. This is my first PJ and I am blown away. No doubt I am NEVER going back to panel.
> 
> Anyway, you remind me of an old buddy of mine. He liked the finer things in life like me, however, his wife wasn't too keen on the $$$. I made sure I left quickly after I helped him carry in or set up this or that BEFORE his wife found out how much he spent on them. lol


Navigating the wives is almost as stringent as navigating light spillage in the PJ world HAHA.
You really have to hone in your sales techniques. I pitched my wife by saying that since we are going to be bringing our first born into the world soon, we might as well update the home theater setup, because we use it as our main tv and we're not going to be doing much of anything besides sitting home watching tv and movies for at least the next 2 years :grin:


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Evan201 said:


> Navigating the wives is almost as stringent as navigating light spillage in the PJ world HAHA.
> You really have to hone in your sales techniques. I pitched my wife by saying that since we are going to be bringing our first born into the world soon, we might as well update the home theater setup, because we use it as our main tv and we're not going to be doing much of anything besides sitting home watching tv and movies for at least the next 2 years :grin:


Well, if I were married, I bet my wife would have a FIT when she found out how much I'm about to drop on a SI Black Diamond Edge. lol


----------



## darkangelism

Snoogleheimer said:


> Well, if I were married, I bet my wife would have a FIT when she found out how much I'm about to drop on a SI Black Diamond Edge. lol


pick a better wife?


----------



## ronin1000

Craig Peer said:


> Epson has the 5040UB back on sale for $ 2499.99 ( and the " e " model for $ 2799.99 ), maybe to celebrate tax day ! The sale ends April 29th - just FYI. A good time to buy if you missed the previous sale.


Thanks for the heads up. I had a feeling it would go on "sale" again. Main reason I bought from Crutchfield with the 60 day price match. I'll be calling soon for a 200 buck refund!


----------



## RyanChristopher

Dave Harper said:


> OK here are the settings, told in menu pictures mostly. I set the menu item to the specific mode it's in instead of AUTO so you can see what it is supposed to be and to make sure it's in that mode specifically to get the proper results. The most important settings are the gamma, contrast and setting it to SDR mode manually instead of HDR. (This is to simulate using a projector/display that isn't HDR capable, like the amazing LS10000, which I want to try this on and will post a similar post there in that thread):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings are, from left to right 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 16, 32.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Panasonic UB900 showing sending HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This puts the clip point for HDR specular highlights/whites at about 1200 nits. If I could've went higher on contrast I would've probably made that clipping point at about 1000 nits.
> 
> You may also want to adjust the color saturation some. That was the last thing I messed with very late last night (or should I say this morning!  ) so it may not be perfect, but it certainly made my jaw drop at that setting watching Ghostbusters!
> 
> If you have an SDR only display you can use an hdfury Linker to trick your source into sending its full HDR signal and then disable the HDR flag on its output to the display. I hope to try this on an LS10000. If anyone here has one or knows someone with one, please refer them here.
> 
> Enjoy and please feel free to tweak as needed and share your results.




Have owned the 5040UB for 3 months now and have loved it, but have spent the better part of that time constantly changing my HDR settings. Until last week when you posted this route. I think I have finally found my settings. 

I live in Wyoming with little access to ISF calibrators so taking these settings posted here and tweaking them with the help of the R. Masciola's HDR test patterns for my setup has been my main option. So far finding a good HDR setting has been rough. 

But this route of forcing SDR and using the custom Gama curve to throw and HDR like image has produced the best image so far. I have tried it on all of my test scenes, the explosion scene in X-Men Apocalypse, a few of the scenic shots in Revenant, the Jungle episode of Planet Earth 2, and one or two of the space scenes in Passengers and it shined at them all. Thanks for the insight and keep us posted as to any adjustments you make. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Spyderturbo007 said:


> That makes complete sense, thank you.
> 
> Would having the Oppo upscale to 4k and then the Epson do whatever it does be better or worse than sending the Epson 1080p and just having one source of picture manipulation?




I'm probably not qualified to answer, but I would think having the Oppo downscale 4k content to 1080p is probably the least desirable choice. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ayrton

3DBob said:


> Can someone help answer this quickly? I received my 5040UB, and it shows in the manual a plastic cover for the back that can be attached to hide the inputs, etc. But there was not cover in the box. Is this an additional accessory? Thanks.


The cover only comes with the UBe (wireless) or the 6040..


----------



## Dave Harper

RyanChristopher said:


> Have owned the 5040UB for 3 months now and have loved it, but have spent the better part of that time constantly changing my HDR settings. Until last week when you posted this route. I think I have finally found my settings.
> 
> I live in Wyoming with little access to ISF calibrators so taking these settings posted here and tweaking them with the help of the R. Masciola's HDR test patterns for my setup has been my main option. So far finding a good HDR setting has been rough.
> 
> But this route of forcing SDR and using the custom Gama curve to throw and HDR like image has produced the best image so far. I have tried it on all of my test scenes, the explosion scene in X-Men Apocalypse, a few of the scenic shots in Revenant, the Jungle episode of Planet Earth 2, and one or two of the space scenes in Passengers and it shined at them all. Thanks for the insight and keep us posted as to any adjustments you make.


Thank you for the kind words, Ryan!  This is why I do this, because it's so much fun playing around with this stuff, like a mad scientist, to see what I can come up with. It fails more times than not, but when it hits, it's usually *BIG*!!! I did a similar thing with my Sony 675ES that I called "The HarperVision Experience", but maybe I will make that more a process and apply it to all models I am able to do something similar to, and then market that as a _thing_ if anyone wants me to do it for them on their gear?

I will have 2 of these 3 projectors (JVC RS600, Epson 5040UB, Epson LS10000) for sale soon, once I decide which one to keep myself in the demo room. I will leave and tweak my "HarperVision Experience" settings on the ones I sell for the next owner to enjoy (hopefully!).

One thing to know, an ISF calibration isn't really things like these settings. It is getting a good reference greyscale, color gamut, gamma, etc. as a baseline before most of these _enhancements_ are applied. So it would behoove you to maybe find someone awesome like Chad B., Ken Whitcomb, UMR, Gregg Loewen, Michael Chen, Kevin Miller, etc. (I am sure I am leaving a ton of folks out, sorry!) to stop by and do some of their ISF/THX magic on it before these settings are applied.

The only change I can think I made so far is backing down color saturation to between 70-75 and on the custom gamma's second to the last point, changing it from 16 to 15 as I noticed a little "haze" in that gamma zone in the scene where Dan Aykroyd drives up in the cab and Kristen Wigg leans in talking to him. The haze was seen around his jacket area below his chin and it made it an easy adjustment since each zone point you select in custom gamma makes if flash on and off so you see exactly what area needs adjusting and that you are adjusting. It would be good for everyone trying this to try a few different scenes, both very dark and very light, and then go through my custom gamma on your setup and do the same tweaks to get each point practically perfect, as I did when I was experimenting with all this. A great scene to almost do it all in one scene is the one from The Revenant towards the end of the first fight with the indians as the older man walks up with the pistol and shoots the horse, then turns and walks through the barn with the guy holding the injured man's head. There's a lof of low level shadow details along with those sparkly highs from the sun and the lens flares. Once I got the gamma really good, I could see it immediately in that scene alone and was like  !


----------



## bommai

I have a Sony bps-s6200 4K upscaling bluray player. Does this mean that when I have this hooked up to the 5040, it will send 4K signal through hdmi 1.4 since that is what the bluray player supports? I am trying to check if my existing hdmi cable will work with 4K before I invest in buying a uhd player. I am not seeing any 4K coming out of the bluray player. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

bommai said:


> I have a Sony bps-s6200 4K upscaling bluray player. Does this mean that when I have this hooked up to the 5040, it will send 4K signal through hdmi 1.4 since that is what the bluray player supports? I am trying to check if my existing hdmi cable will work with 4K before I invest in buying a uhd player. I am not seeing any 4K coming out of the bluray player.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


For best resolution results, you need a UHD disc and Native 4k blu ray player sent through the HDCP 2.2 HDMI input. 
4k upscale from SDR blu ray 1080p is not the same as true 4k. The projector info will not read 4k resolution from 1080 disc with just an upscale blu ray player.
As for a cable and 4k signal, I wouldn't go over 35' in length and I would choose an "active" cable like the Monoprice Luxe or Monoprice Cabernet.


----------



## inspector

Well, it seems like everyone thinks that's there could be more than "ONE" calibration, and there is. Remember, it's what we are watching, and I'm not counting streaming, physical only...BD, UHDBD, 3D BD, 3D/2D BD and DVD.


My ISFer only did CINEMA for BD. Since BD/ DVD are shown as CINEMA, what to do about the other two?


My B&W 3Ders are shown as CINEMA (too much brightness as BRIGHT CINEMA) but my color ones are shown as BRIGHT CINEMA.


The UDDBD ones are shown as...can't remember...too much beer, but I will edit this post tomorrow.


Funny, I didn't have to do all this crap when I had my Epson 9500...it was what it was!!!


----------



## ht guy

Dave Harper said:


> And here are my "HarperVision Experience" settings using the HDR signal capability on Bright Cinema Mode in the 5040, based on a great custom gamma that oledurt sent to me, but tweaked slightly for my tastes. Maybe he will share his as well if he hasn't already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings: 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,28,0
> 
> There's been many iterations of this gamma in my testing, especially at the top end, so this can change and probably will, especially with your personal tweaks if you can share.
> 
> (I'll edit this and update all the menu settings here when I am able to get back to my 5040)


Dave,

Great stuff!

I'm guessing I'd prefer the bright cinema to the digital cinema setting. Can you provide the correct gamma figures that correspond to the image?


----------



## Dave Harper

ht guy said:


> Dave,
> 
> Great stuff!
> 
> I'm guessing I'd prefer the bright cinema to the digital cinema setting. Can you provide the correct gamma figures that correspond to the image?


Thanks! 

The last three are all at 32 in the image, which is the top of the range. I think I do have to revisit that though, as I got caught up in my HDR using SDR mode HarperVision Experience tweaks. By the way, did you try those settings? I think they're better than using that gamma on Bright Cinema since you get the same brightness as that with Digital Cinema, plus are able to use the WCG bt2020 filter for full P3 colors!


----------



## bommai

Evan201 said:


> For best resolution results, you need a UHD disc and Native 4k blu ray player sent through the HDCP 2.2 HDMI input.
> 4k upscale from SDR blu ray 1080p is not the same as true 4k. The projector info will not read 4k resolution from 1080 disc with just an upscale blu ray player.
> As for a cable and 4k signal, I wouldn't go over 35' in length and I would choose an "active" cable like the Monoprice Luxe or Monoprice Cabernet.


Totally understand. However, I don't have a 4K player right now only an upscaling Bluray player. I don't know if my cables are up to it and I can't really upgrade the cable because it goes through the ceiling. I want to see if I have to upgrade the cable as well if I buy the UHD player or can I get away with buying just the player. I don't want to buy the UHD player now if I have to upgrade the cable as well. I thought once the upscaling feature is turned on, the projector will recognize the 4K signal as the incoming signal.


----------



## ElectricTater

Good day 6040 people. 

I am looking into buying the 6040 for a home theatre set and I have a technical question. 

The Epson distance calculator for a 120" sceen says place the projector between 11'9" and 24 ish feet. 

The question I have is this: is there a sweet spot within this distance that is optimum placement for the projector?

Thanks for your help.


----------



## jsil

Here you go ElectricTater http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro_Cinema_6040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## Oledurt

Ok three screenshots. First is ISF calibrated Bright Cinema mode using Auto Bright setting.










Second is ISF Calibrated Digital Cinema with auto ie HDR 2 AND dynamic range adjustment on the panasonic ub900 maxed +12










Finally we have Harpervision. Daves settings he put up here.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Boldlygo

cchrono said:


> 1.09 has some fixes for hdr that might give you a better experience with uhd discs
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




There are no firmware updates on the Canadian Epson site. Should we or can we use updates from another site?
My projector info shows: 670076648RWWV105



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Jay13

Snoogleheimer said:


> Anyway, you remind me of an old buddy of mine. He liked the finer things in life like me, however, his wife wasn't too keen on the $$$. I made sure I left quickly after I helped him carry in or set up this or that BEFORE his wife found out how much he spent on them. lol


Meh. She spent 5x the 5040 $$$ on granite last week. I have found that most wives lack the "toy upgrade" gene. Unless it's something obvious (like the Klipsch RPs that showed up last week), I'd rather just swap out the goods without a debate. 

BTW - with the $200 price drop, I pulled the trigger tonight Arrives Thurs.


----------



## jsil

Thanks for the pictures I like the last one.


----------



## Evan201

Oledurt said:


> Ok three screenshots. First is ISF calibrated Bright Cinema mode using Auto Bright setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second is ISF Calibrated Digital Cinema with auto ie HDR 2 AND dynamic range adjustment on the panasonic ub900 maxed +12
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally we have Harpervision. Daves settings he put up here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is the last one shown here also combining the UB900 update boosted levels?


----------



## Oledurt

Evan201 said:


> Is the last one shown here also combining the UB900 update boosted levels?




no


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

Oledurt said:


> no
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


For God Sakes Man! That is outstanding! 

So just ISF calibration with Daves Digital Cinema mode settings will do that huh? 
Lamp on High also?


----------



## Boldlygo

And I still cannot any 4K disc to look as good as it's bluray version with respect to colours. The bluray looks fantastic. I have made all the setting changes needed. I have the OPPO 203 with a 35' cable. The info on the OPPO and Epson show HDR is passing through. 

I've tried 3 different 35' cables directly from the back of the OPPO. I've tried temporarily moving the OPPO right underneath my Epson using the OPPO HDMI cable. I've even tried the Samsung 4K player from a relative - makes NO difference. 4K colours are never as good as the bluray. What gives????



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

Evan201 said:


> For God Sakes Man! That is outstanding!
> 
> 
> 
> So just ISF calibration with Daves Digital Cinema mode settings will do that huh?
> 
> Lamp on High also?




lamp is on high only on the last one daves settings


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Boldlygo said:


> And I still cannot any 4K disc to look as good as it's bluray version with respect to colours. The bluray looks fantastic. I have made all the setting changes needed. I have the OPPO 203 with a 35' cable. The info on the OPPO and Epson show HDR is passing through.
> 
> I've tried 3 different 35' cables directly from the back of the OPPO. I've tried temporarily moving the OPPO right underneath my Epson using the OPPO HDMI cable. I've even tried the Samsung 4K player from a relative - makes NO difference. 4K colours are never as good as the bluray. What gives????
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


...can Canada really get good color, when it's almost all white all the time?


----------



## Boldlygo

inspector said:


> ...can Canada really get good color, when it's almost all white all the time?




Well we had enough of that this winter....but this is off topic....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> lamp is on high only on the last one daves settings
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




And to confirm, you combined Dave's settings with the ISF digital cinema settings? Or did you just start completely fresh with no color adjustments (defaults at 50)?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> Ok three screenshots. First is ISF calibrated Bright Cinema mode using Auto Bright setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second is ISF Calibrated Digital Cinema with auto ie HDR 2 AND dynamic range adjustment on the panasonic ub900 maxed +12
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally we have Harpervision. Daves settings he put up here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oooooohhhhhh, look at all that fine detail in the shadows down in the streets! The colors look good too. Very natural looking image. You really have to experience it in person though. It hits you immediately the depth, detail and clarity of it, doesn't it? Only thing I see there that I may not see here myself is it seems the sun may be blooming and clipped a little. I am not sure of that reference picture you're using. I haven't seen that I don't think. Where is that from? It does look familiar though.

I told ya, Ain't dat purty!  I wish others would hop on board this possible awesome tweak for many other projectors too. I am surprised there's not much chatter about it on other threads. I think this could possibly be the best implementation using HDR on projectors yet, even ones that are billed as "HDR Capable". Many were sriping HDR to get SDR bt2020 WCG only, but this is even better and maybe better than using any HDR mode too! Oh well, you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink, haha!

I think it's because it's so crazy to even think about logically, and it was for me too, but with HDR WCG over the past few months, I've been like....._"WTF, let's give it a go and try anything"_, so I did! That attitude resulted in some amazing finds with the Sony 675 and this 5040 so far. Let's keep trying on other units. I am frothing at the mouth waiting for the Epson LS10000 to arrive! As soon as I get time I will try it on the RS600 too.




jsil said:


> Thanks for the pictures I like the last one.


Same. 




Evan201 said:


> Is the last one shown here also combining the UB900 update boosted levels?


No





Evan201 said:


> For God Sakes Man! That is outstanding!
> 
> So just ISF calibration with Daves Digital Cinema mode settings will do that huh?
> Lamp on High also?








Oledurt said:


> lamp is on high only on the last one daves settings.


Well worth the loss of lamp hours in my opinion, when watching HDR. Just balance it out with using Eco with TV stuff and maybe standard HD, etc.

EDIT: Actually the middle one looks real good too, but I like a little more low level shadow details. Maybe you can tweak the mids a little down on my setting to get that darker depth look similar to your middle one? I think then it would look more like what I see here. Watch The Martian, what a treat with these settings!


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> Oooooohhhhhh, look at all that fine detail in the shadows down in the streets! The colors look good too. Very natural looking image. You really have to experience it in person though. It hits you immediately the depth, detail and clarity of it, doesn't it? Only thing I see there that I may not see here myself is it seems the sun may be blooming and clipped a little. I am not sure of that reference picture you're using. I haven't seen that I don't think. Where is that from? It does look familiar though.
> 
> 
> 
> I told ya, Ain't dat purty!  I wish others would hop on board this possible awesome tweak for many other projectors too. I am surprised there's not much chatter about it on other threads. I think this could possibly be the best implementation using HDR on projectors yet, even ones that are billed as "HDR Capable". Many were sriping HDR to get SDR bt2020 WCG only, but this is even better and maybe better than using any HDR mode too! Oh well, you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink, haha!
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's because it's so crazy to even think about logically, and it was for me too, but with HDR WCG over the past few months, I've been like....._"WTF, let's give it a go and try anything"_, so I did! That attitude resulted in some amazing finds with the Sony 675 and this 5040 so far. Let's keep trying on other units. I am frothing at the mouth waiting for the Epson LS10000 to arrive! As soon as I get time I will try it on the RS600 too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well worth the loss of lamp hours in my opinion, when watching HDR. Just balance it out with using Eco with TV stuff and maybe standard HD, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Actually the middle one looks real good too, but I like a little more low level shadow details. Maybe you can tweak the mids a little down on my setting to get that darker depth look similar to your middle one? I think then it would look more like what I see here. Watch The Martian, what a treat with these settings!




there is no blooming that is just from the iphone camera. the pic is from r. masciolas hdr test pattern suite.

I put the lamp in medium mode and bumped the dynamic range setting in the panny +2.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Muckdaddy

Dave Harper said:


> Oooooohhhhhh, look at all that fine detail in the shadows down in the streets! The colors look good too. Very natural looking image. You really have to experience it in person though. It hits you immediately the depth, detail and clarity of it, doesn't it? Only thing I see there that I may not see here myself is it seems the sun may be blooming and clipped a little. I am not sure of that reference picture you're using. I haven't seen that I don't think. Where is that from? It does look familiar though.
> 
> I told ya, Ain't dat purty!  I wish others would hop on board this possible awesome tweak for many other projectors too. I am surprised there's not much chatter about it on other threads. I think this could possibly be the best implementation using HDR on projectors yet, even ones that are billed as "HDR Capable". Many were sriping HDR to get SDR bt2020 WCG only, but this is even better and maybe better than using any HDR mode too! Oh well, you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink, haha!
> 
> I think it's because it's so crazy to even think about logically, and it was for me too, but with HDR WCG over the past few months, I've been like....._"WTF, let's give it a go and try anything"_, so I did! That attitude resulted in some amazing finds with the Sony 675 and this 5040 so far. Let's keep trying on other units. I am frothing at the mouth waiting for the Epson LS10000 to arrive! As soon as I get time I will try it on the RS600 too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well worth the loss of lamp hours in my opinion, when watching HDR. Just balance it out with using Eco with TV stuff and maybe standard HD, etc.
> 
> EDIT: Actually the middle one looks real good too, but I like a little more low level shadow details. Maybe you can tweak the mids a little down on my setting to get that darker depth look similar to your middle one? I think then it would look more like what I see here. Watch The Martian, what a treat with these settings!


I just received my 5040UB and wanted to ask what tweaks to these "HarperVision" settings would you make for regular HDTV viewing as well as 3D movie viewing?


----------



## bommai

I have two 25' HDMI cables through my ceiling to my component rack. I installed this 7 years ago with cables from mono price and I did not run them through conduits. Now that I have the 5040UB, my next upgrade will be to UHD. However, I wanted to make sure the cable will actually work because running another cable is not easy and may be impossible. Today, I hooked up my work laptop which is a HP Z-Book that can do external HDMI to a 4K resolution. When I hooked it up using one of the cables, I was able to get 4K resolution and the projector recognized it as 4K SDR. I could not make it HDR using the computer. But, I am encouraged that it works. I have my eye on a Sony X800 UHD player since it plays SACD and does not cost as much as a Panny or Oppo. I don't need multi channel analog as long as the second HDMI output passes through audio to my receiver (NAD T775HD) which only does HDMI 1.4. I am not ready to upgrade my receiver or pay for their upgrade card which costs $600 to let it pass 4K video.


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> Ok three screenshots. First is ISF calibrated Bright Cinema mode using Auto Bright setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second is ISF Calibrated Digital Cinema with auto ie HDR 2 AND dynamic range adjustment on the panasonic ub900 maxed +12
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally we have Harpervision. Daves settings he put up here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Have you tried your isf calibrated digital cinema with hdr1 which is brighter than hdr2 but with less Panasonic HDR brightness ?.

Looking on my iPad at the images it appears like a series of photographs with the first underexposed, the second one about right and the third overexposed, as I say that's looking at them on my iPad.


----------



## panman40

Have you chaps had anymore feedback from Epson regarding the crosstalk ?.


----------



## Dave Harper

Muckdaddy said:


> I just received my 5040UB and wanted to ask what tweaks to these "HarperVision" settings would you make for regular HDTV viewing as well as 3D movie viewing?


I have not done any testing in those modes unfortunately. I have only been messing with HDR WCG, since that is where my priorities are lying lately.




bommai said:


> I have two 25' HDMI cables through my ceiling to my component rack. I installed this 7 years ago with cables from mono price and I did not run them through conduits. Now that I have the 5040UB, my next upgrade will be to UHD. However, I wanted to make sure the cable will actually work because running another cable is not easy and may be impossible. Today, I hooked up my work laptop which is a HP Z-Book that can do external HDMI to a 4K resolution. When I hooked it up using one of the cables, I was able to get 4K resolution and the projector recognized it as 4K SDR. I could not make it HDR using the computer. But, I am encouraged that it works. I have my eye on a Sony X800 UHD player since it plays SACD and does not cost as much as a Panny or Oppo. I don't need multi channel analog as long as the second HDMI output passes through audio to my receiver (NAD T775HD) which only does HDMI 1.4. I am not ready to upgrade my receiver or pay for their upgrade card which costs $600 to let it pass 4K video.


You should've opted for the 5040UBe wireless option. Sounds like it would've been worth the extra $300 to me.




panman40 said:


> Have you tried your isf calibrated digital cinema with hdr1 which is brighter than hdr2 but with less Panasonic HDR brightness ?.
> 
> Looking on my iPad at the images it appears like a series of photographs with the first underexposed, the second one about right and the third overexposed, as I say that's looking at them on my iPad.


Yes, that's similar to what I mentioned that I noticed after looking closer initial and added in my edit. I thought I remembered that scene! I don't usually use the images in R. Masciola's Suite. I use known scenes from UHD movies. I will have to check that scene on my 5040 too.


----------



## seplant

panman40 said:


> Have you chaps had anymore feedback from Epson regarding the crosstalk ?.


There is a thread dedicated to the crosstalk issue here.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## seplant

Dave Harper said:


> I told ya, Ain't dat purty!  I wish others would hop on board this possible awesome tweak for many other projectors too. I am surprised there's not much chatter about it on other threads. I think this could possibly be the best implementation using HDR on projectors yet, even ones that are billed as "HDR Capable". Many were sriping HDR to get SDR bt2020 WCG only, but this is even better and maybe better than using any HDR mode too! Oh well, you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink, haha!


Dave - Running this projector in high lamp mode just doesn't work for some of us due to the loudness of the fan noise. Would your settings, perhaps combined with the brightness adjustment on the Panny, work well in medium lamp mode?


----------



## panman40

seplant said:


> Dave - Running this projector in high lamp mode just doesn't work for some of us due to the loudness of the fan noise. Would your settings, perhaps combined with the brightness adjustment on the Panny, work well in medium lamp mode?


Agreed, I'm not sure why there's even a high lamp mode at all as its just so noisy, medium lamp is about equivelant to high lamp on the Sonys I had for noise.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

I ran into an issue last night and was hoping someone could help me out. I can't find what I need in the manual.

On Sunday I watched my first 4k movie with HDR. I changed the setting for the HDR from Auto to HDR 1 after seeing that it was most people's recommendation when watching 4k movies. Yesterday, forgetting that I had changed that setting, I watched a normal Bluray rip from my HTPC. All of the colors were over saturated and flesh tones were almost red. I starting messing around with various settings completely forgetting that I had changed it to HDR1. After not being able to get it right, I chalked it up to a crappy rip and finished the movie.

After I finished the movie, I threw it up on my plasma upstairs and quickly found out it wasn't the rip. I went back to the projector and finally realized that it was still set to HDR1. I guess I just assumed that if I wasn't feeding it an HDR signal, it wouldn't try to use HDR 1 anymore.

Is there a way to save those settings like I do for lens position? So if were to adjust the brightness, HDR settings, etc. that I can hit one button and have the settings loaded? I see you can do it on a per-input basis in the manual, but I only use one input.

Also, can anyone explain the difference between Auto, Auto (Bright), HDR1, HDR2, etc? There isn't anything in the manual.


----------



## seplant

Spyderturbo007 said:


> I ran into an issue last night and was hoping someone could help me out. I can't find what I need in the manual.
> 
> On Sunday I watched my first 4k movie with HDR. I changed the setting for the HDR from Auto to HDR 1 after seeing that it was most people's recommendation when watching 4k movies. Yesterday, forgetting that I had changed that setting, I watched a normal Bluray rip from my HTPC. All of the colors were over saturated and flesh tones were almost red. I starting messing around with various settings completely forgetting that I had changed it to HDR1. After not being able to get it right, I chalked it up to a crappy rip and finished the movie.
> 
> After I finished the movie, I threw it up on my plasma upstairs and quickly found out it wasn't the rip. I went back to the projector and finally realized that it was still set to HDR1. I guess I just assumed that if I wasn't feeding it an HDR signal, it wouldn't try to use HDR 1 anymore.
> 
> Is there a way to save those settings like I do for lens position? So if were to adjust the brightness, HDR settings, etc. that I can hit one button and have the settings loaded? I see you can do it on a per-input basis in the manual, but I only use one input.
> 
> Also, can anyone explain the difference between Auto, Auto (Bright), HDR1, HDR2, etc? There isn't anything in the manual.


Pretty sure you want to use the Auto (Bright) setting. That should automatically change the setting to HDR1 for HDR content. The Auto setting uses HDR2. My understanding is that these brightness settings are not saved to memory.


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> Have you tried your isf calibrated digital cinema with hdr1 which is brighter than hdr2 but with less Panasonic HDR brightness ?.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking on my iPad at the images it appears like a series of photographs with the first underexposed, the second one about right and the third overexposed, as I say that's looking at them on my iPad.




Ok I did a lot of testing last night, and here are some of my findings. I will post my final settings I am using later on today.

tradeoffs...

If you use Auto Bright ie HDR 1 you trade contrast for brightness. If you use Auto ie HDR 2 you gain a lot of contrast but lose brightness.

If you use the Dynamic Contrast setting in the Panasonic UHD player anything past +4 will clip the colors.

So it is all one big balancing act. So the question is what is the best way to set this projector up without doing all of the above too much.

I am crafting a pretty good Digital Cinema setting using the Dynamic Contrast setting in the panny at +4. I am doing some more testing and will let you know later how it turns out.

That is the middle picture on my previous post. 

The best HDR picture I have is using the ISF bright Cinema mode with auto bright. You do lose WCG but you have better brightness, and the colors don't clip as soon as digital cinema. So that means brighter colors, and much better specular highlights. In this mode at times you have to avert your eyes to things like super bright lights or sun because it is that bright.

I prefer this mode. I am still working on the digital cinema, but you really can't get around the lack of brightness.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Spyderturbo007

seplant said:


> Pretty sure you want to use the Auto (Bright) setting. That should automatically change the setting to HDR1 for HDR content. The Auto setting uses HDR2. My understanding is that these brightness settings are not saved to memory.


Ah. So if I leave the setting on Auto (Bright) when playing an HDR movie it will jump to HDR 1, but when playing a normal movie it will use SDR? That way I won't forget an wonder why my projector looks like crap all of a sudden. Duh! 

Too bad you can't set Auto to HDR 1. I think I like Auto better than Auto (Bright), but I'll give it another look.

Thanks!


----------



## panman40

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Ah. So if I leave the setting on Auto (Bright) when playing an HDR movie it will jump to HDR 1, but when playing a normal movie it will use SDR? That way I won't forget an wonder why my projector looks like crap all of a sudden. Duh!
> 
> Too bad you can't set Auto to HDR 1. I think I like Auto better than Auto (Bright), but I'll give it another look.
> 
> Thanks!


That's correct yes, I find the best setting is auto bright but of course still need to swap a saved memory for HDR/SDR , I think the Epson should easily be able to auto detect a UHD disc and automatically swap to your chosen picture mode just as it does with 2D / 3D.


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> Ok I did a lot of testing last night, and here are some of my findings. I will post my final settings I am using later on today.
> 
> tradeoffs...
> 
> If you use Auto Bright ie HDR 1 you trade contrast for brightness. If you use Auto ie HDR 2 you gain a lot of contrast but lose brightness.
> 
> If you use the Dynamic Contrast setting in the Panasonic UHD player anything past +4 will clip the colors.
> 
> So it is all one big balancing act. So the question is what is the best way to set this projector up without doing all of the above too much.
> 
> I am crafting a pretty good Digital Cinema setting using the Dynamic Contrast setting in the panny at +4. I am doing some more testing and will let you know later how it turns out.
> 
> That is the middle picture on my previous post.
> 
> The best HDR picture I have is using the ISF bright Cinema mode with auto bright. You do lose WCG but you have better brightness, and the colors don't clip as soon as digital cinema. So that means brighter colors, and much better specular highlights. In this mode at times you have to avert your eyes to things like super bright lights or sun because it is that bright.
> 
> I prefer this mode. I am still working on the digital cinema, but you really can't get around the lack of brightness.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That's interesting and I would be glad to see what you end up with, so you prefer hdr2 than 1 despite it being much darker ?. I haven't checked for clipping of colours as I don't have V3 of ChromaPure yet.
I just turned up the HDR slider on my ub700 to where I though ok that looks ok which was +5.

I must admit I'm not a fan of super bright eye seering highlights, for bd and tv I'm at Eco lamp, superwhite On, -20 manual Iris, contrast 42, that's giving 13ftl on my 106" 16:9 1.1 gain white screen.

I keep thinking how easy things were when it was just blu Ray and rec709 lol!. It's a shame that just turning off HDR on a player isn't identical to the blu Ray and just taking advantage of the extra resoloution.

Look forward to your findings


----------



## Evan201

Oledurt said:


> Ok I did a lot of testing last night, and here are some of my findings. I will post my final settings I am using later on today.
> 
> tradeoffs...
> 
> If you use Auto Bright ie HDR 1 you trade contrast for brightness. If you use Auto ie HDR 2 you gain a lot of contrast but lose brightness.
> 
> If you use the Dynamic Contrast setting in the Panasonic UHD player anything past +4 will clip the colors.
> 
> So it is all one big balancing act. So the question is what is the best way to set this projector up without doing all of the above too much.
> 
> I am crafting a pretty good Digital Cinema setting using the Dynamic Contrast setting in the panny at +4. I am doing some more testing and will let you know later how it turns out.
> 
> That is the middle picture on my previous post.
> 
> The best HDR picture I have is using the ISF bright Cinema mode with auto bright. You do lose WCG but you have better brightness, and the colors don't clip as soon as digital cinema. So that means brighter colors, and much better specular highlights. In this mode at times you have to avert your eyes to things like super bright lights or sun because it is that bright.
> 
> I prefer this mode. I am still working on the digital cinema, but you really can't get around the lack of brightness.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Also looking forward to your findings! Sounds fun. I like Daves settings in bright cinema and Natural mode. I also like Auto (Bright) with normal HDR signal. 
Sicario looked awesome with both really. Low lights obviously raised with Daves settings, but HDR1 Bright Cinema looked great too. 

Would anyone suggest running High Altitude mode for about 15 minutes after running High Lamp mode for about 2+ hours before they shut down the projector to vent some heat? Seemed like a good idea to me to switch to Eco before a movie ends and kick up the fan for venting before I shut it down for the night.


----------



## Oledurt

I use bright cinema mode with auto bright hdr 1 and a custom gamma curve. 

In digital cinema mode i use auto ie hdr 2 mode. Digital cinema mode gives you P3 colorspace but there are not enough nits and the colors clip. In my testing between 200 & 400 nits.

When we calibrated my projector it was capable of a paltry 46 nits in digital cinema mode.

It is 87 nits in bright cinema mode. My LG OLED does around 680 nits. 

So...this projector can only do so much. You have to set your expectations accordingly...there are no magic settings. Just like you can't turn a camry into a corvette. This projector does not have the horsepower to do full HDR.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## arpatel

I tried Harpervision settings on my 5040 ub via Philips UHD player: start trek UHD disc looked awesome : Thanks for sharing the settings : I am excited to check all other UHD discs I have with this settings: I am wondering if professional calibration will add anything more to this already awesome picture !!!


----------



## Evan201

Would anyone suggest running High Altitude mode for about 15 minutes after running High Lamp mode for about 2+ hours before they shut down the projector to vent some heat? Seemed like a good idea to me to switch to Eco before a movie ends and kick up the fan for venting before I shut it down for the night.

Why hasn't epson made it so the turbo fan comes on upon shutdown? Seems backwards. I'm going to email them about it.


----------



## Joe.Swirls

arpatel said:


> I tried Harpervision settings on my 5040 ub via Philips UHD player: start trek UHD disc looked awesome : Thanks for sharing the settings : I am excited to check all other UHD discs I have with this settings: I am wondering if professional calibration will add anything more to this already awesome picture !!!


Maybe Dave Harper would consider putting a link to these settings in his signature? I foresee a lot of people asking where to find these and this thread is quite large to search through. Just an idea...


----------



## Dave Harper

Joe.Swirls said:


> Maybe Dave Harper would consider putting a link to these settings in his signature? I foresee a lot of people asking where to find these and this thread is quite large to search through. Just an idea...



Great idea! I'll do that when I get a chance!




Oledurt said:


> I use bright cinema mode with auto bright hdr 1 and a custom gamma curve.
> 
> In digital cinema mode i use auto ie hdr 2 mode. Digital cinema mode gives you P3 colorspace but there are not enough nits and the colors clip. In my testing between 200 & 400 nits.
> 
> When we calibrated my projector it was capable of a paltry 46 nits in digital cinema mode.
> 
> It is 87 nits in bright cinema mode. My LG OLED does around 680 nits.
> 
> So...this projector can only do so much. You have to set your expectations accordingly...there are no magic settings. Just like you can't turn a camry into a corvette. This projector does not have the horsepower to do full HDR.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



That has not been my experience at all with my settings, but I will check those numbers here too. My picture was extremely bright and I had to do as others are saying, avert my eyes during specular highlights. It looks every bit as bright as any HD or SD signal I've watched on it. 




Oledurt said:


> Ok I did a lot of testing last night, and here are some of my findings. I will post my final settings I am using later on today.
> 
> tradeoffs...
> 
> If you use Auto Bright ie HDR 1 you trade contrast for brightness. If you use Auto ie HDR 2 you gain a lot of contrast but lose brightness.
> 
> If you use the Dynamic Contrast setting in the Panasonic UHD player anything past +4 will clip the colors.
> 
> So it is all one big balancing act. So the question is what is the best way to set this projector up without doing all of the above too much.
> 
> I am crafting a pretty good Digital Cinema setting using the Dynamic Contrast setting in the panny at +4. I am doing some more testing and will let you know later how it turns out.
> 
> That is the middle picture on my previous post.
> 
> The best HDR picture I have is using the ISF bright Cinema mode with auto bright. *You do lose WCG but you have better brightness, and the colors don't clip as soon as digital cinema. So that means brighter colors, and much better specular highlights. In this mode at times you have to avert your eyes to things like super bright lights or sun because it is that bright.
> 
> I prefer this mode. I am still working on the digital cinema, but you really can't get around the lack of brightness.*
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I don't recall seeing any clipping using my settings either. In fact that is one of the strengths I was seeing with it, that there's no clipping on either end of the scale and the mids just pop. Are you using any reference material for setting it up like R. Masciola's patterns and then using movie scenes to tweak the gamma points? I could basically mirror your comments, but in regards to my settings, so something must be up there. 




seplant said:


> Dave - Running this projector in high lamp mode just doesn't work for some of us due to the loudness of the fan noise. Would your settings, perhaps combined with the brightness adjustment on the Panny, work well in medium lamp mode?



I haven't personally tried this, but it is certainly easy for anyone to try. It takes less than 5 minutes to input all my settings and give it a go. Screen choice and room environment will determine the success of that really because you're just dimming the whole image's light rather than specific characteristics within the image like the settings do. You will possibly gain some contrast though, similar to using an iris. 

I guess the loud fans don't bother these old ears as much as you young whipper-snappers!  I cut my teeth on CRT projectors and those sounded like the Atlas III rocket taking off sometimes!


----------



## Joe.Swirls

Dave Harper said:


> Great idea! I'll do that when I get a chance!
> 
> Awesome! Thank you much!!


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> Great idea! I'll do that when I get a chance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That has not been my experience at all with my settings, but I will check those numbers here too. My picture was extremely bright and I had to do as others are saying, avert my eyes during specular highlights. It looks every bit as bright as any HD or SD signal I've watched on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't recall seeing any clipping using my settings either. In fact that is one of the strengths I was seeing with it, that there's no clipping on either end of the scale and the mids just pop. Are you using any reference material for setting it up like R. Masciola's patterns and then using movie scenes to tweak the gamma points? I could basically mirror your comments, but in regards to my settings, so something must be up there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't personally tried this, but it is certainly easy for anyone to try. It takes less than 5 minutes to input all my settings and give it a go. Screen choice and room environment will determine the success of that really because you're just dimming the whole image's light rather than specific characteristics within the image like the settings do. You will possibly gain some contrast though, similar to using an iris.
> 
> I guess the loud fans don't bother these old ears as much as you young whipper-snappers!  I cut my teeth on CRT projectors and those sounded like the Atlas III rocket taking off sometimes!




Glad you found settings you like for your Epson Dave, I tried them too. Good job. I have them saved. Contrast is good, white doesn't clip till after 1000 nits. Blacks are not crushed or clipped either. Only thing I found is that the the colors are clipped more than I would prefer.

You can check this on R Masciola's patterns.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> Glad you found settings you like for your Epson Dave, I tried them too. Good job. I have them saved. Contrast is good, white doesn't clip till after 1000 nits. Blacks are not crushed or clipped either. Only thing I found is that the the colors are clipped more than I would prefer.
> 
> You can check this on R Masciola's patterns.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Awesome, thanks for the tip Oledurt! I think that's why I boost my color saturation settings. Do you do that? I will definitely try to check that out. I haven't had time to meter everything yet, as I have been consuming all my free time (which is sparse!) with tweaks and playing different movie scenes.

You have saved my butt and tipped me off to some great tips already a few times with that great custom gamma, which kind of gave me this whole HDR to SDR hack to begin with actually, so *THANKS MAN*!!! I appreciate it and owe it all to you, seriously. This all never would have been possible without you sending me that info! 

I should spend more time tweaking what you sent me instead of this HDR-SDR hack. I am sure i can get amazing results with that too, but I thought this would be a good one to do first because it will allow those without an HDR capable display to actually display HDR, so those folks don't feel like they bought too soon and were ripped off for not getting HDR.


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> Awesome, thanks for the tip Oledurt! I think that's why I boost my color saturation settings. Do you do that? I will definitely try to check that out. I haven't had time to meter everything yet, as I have been consuming all my free time (which is sparse!) with tweaks and playing differnent movie scenes.
> 
> 
> 
> You have saved my butt and tipped me off to some great tips already a few times with that great custom gamma, which kind of gave me this whole HDR to SDR hack to begin with actually, so *THANKS MAN*!!! I appreciate it and owe it all to you, seriously. This all never would have been possible without you sending me that info!
> 
> 
> 
> I should spend more time tweaking what you sent me instead of this HDR-SDR hack. I am sure i can get amazing results with that too, but I thought this would be a good one to do first because it will allow those without an HDR capable display to actually display HDR, so those folks don't feel like they bought too soon and were ripped off for not getting HDR.




NP Dave I am glad to help out. I am still working on your harpervision settings too dialing them in. HDR IS the future no doubt about that can you imagine what it will look like in 3 years...holy crap what a great time to be in this hobby! I love it


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Joe.Swirls said:


> Dave Harper said:
> 
> 
> 
> Great idea! I'll do that when I get a chance!
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! Thank you much!!
Click to expand...

Done! See below my signature and tell me if it works properly on your end.


----------



## RyanChristopher

So I know someone asked a page or two back what was the latest from Epson regarding the 3D Crosstalk issue. I originally contacted Epson about a week and a half ago just to file a complaint so they took the Crosstalk issue seriously. I emailed them my setting on both the projector and OPPO 203. They asked me to change one setting to which I did and reported that did nothing in fact I felt it made it worse. That was all last week and a week went by with nothing besides their engineers were going to look into it. 
Epson Support just sent me an email that said the following. 
"The engineers would like me to replace your projector with a new so we can get yours into our Corp HQ and take a look at it."
So I am preparing to ship my projector to them tonight. Since the first 5040UB I bought had dead pixel issue I also requested them to test the new unit prior to shipping it and they agreed to tat but added it would add an extra day to the shipping process. 
So that is where I am at currently. Will report back when the new unit arrives and I can test it out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## akgolf

Thanks for adding the link to your signature Dave. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

akgolf said:


> Thanks for adding the link to your signature Dave.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



No problem. I should also put a link in there to my HarperVision Experience settings on the Sony VPL-VW675ES, for those with that awesome projector.


----------



## hnupe

*Harpervision Help*



Oledurt said:


> Ok three screenshots. First is ISF calibrated Bright Cinema mode using Auto Bright setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second is ISF Calibrated Digital Cinema with auto ie HDR 2 AND dynamic range adjustment on the panasonic ub900 maxed +12
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally we have Harpervision. Daves settings he put up here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry, I am a rookie. Can you walk through or show screen shots on how to get to Harpervision? I am using the 4k Philips BDP7501


----------



## robc1976

Newbie questions here.

1. On my 4311ci does the hdmi get plugged into arc so I can just switch between sources? 

2. Do you guys plug your projector directly into the wall into power station? I have a Belkin PF60.


----------



## Umar_Naseer

I've got a 203. How do I get Harpervision?

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Umar_Naseer said:


> I've got a 203. How do I get Harpervision?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk





hnupe said:


> Sorry, I am a rookie. Can you walk through or show screen shots on how to get to Harpervision? I am using the 4k Philips BDP7501



Just follow the instructions and posts after you click on the link below my signature. 

What projectors are you using? I'm assuming it's the Epson 5040 or 6040UB, seeing as you're posting in that thread. If so then the instructions are for those exact models. 

The only thing I'd change is the second to the last gamma point I would lower from 16 to 15. That seemed to help defeat some haze I saw in a scene of Ghostbusters 2016.


----------



## hnupe

Dave Harper said:


> Just follow the instructions and posts after you click on the link below my signature.
> 
> What projectors are you using? I'm assuming it's the Epson 5040 or 6040UB, seeing as you're posting in that thread. If so then the instructions are for those exact models.
> 
> The only thing I'd change is the second to the last gamma point I would lower from 16 to 15. That seemed to help defeat some haze I saw in a scene of Ghostbusters 2016.


Holy crap the Harpervision on my Epson 5040UB looks great!!!!


----------



## Dave Harper

hnupe said:


> Holy crap the Harpervision on my Epson 5040UB looks great!!!!


----------



## k3nnis

Silly question is Harper vision just settings created by Dave Harper ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

k3nnis said:


> Silly question is Harper vision just settings created by Dave Harper ?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Haha....yes! They are created using my _vast knowledge_ of video signals and their characteristics from almost 30 years in the business. Something I like to call............(cue the music!)



















..................._"The HarperVision Experience"!!!_

  

(It's also the name of our company, HarperVision, LLC)


----------



## k3nnis

Lol thanks  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## akgolf

I'm leaning towards the LS10500 any chance of HarperVision for that unit?

I like what I'm reading about it. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

akgolf said:


> I'm leaning towards the LS10500 any chance of HarperVision for that unit?
> 
> I like what I'm reading about it.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes you should be able to try it on the LS10500, just like you can on the lamp based 5040/6040. These are all HDR capable projectors that don't "have to have" these settings applied, but it very well could result in better performance than one of the HDR modes. So far I think it does on the 5040 I have here and used as a test bed for this. To be fair, I could still work on tweaks to using just custom gamma on an HDR mode, like what Oledurt does, and in the end that could possibly come out better. I just haven't had time to do that part of it yet. The reason I like this HDR on SDR setting is because it seems to be universal to be used on all 4K displays, mainly projectors since they're dim, regardless of HDR capability or not. So I have devoted my time to this first.

I have an LS10000 on order from the amazing @Mike Garrett at AVS, so I will be able to better answer your question after I get it and have time to mess with it with these settings.


----------



## akgolf

Dave Harper said:


> Yes you should be able to try it on the LS10500, just like you can on the lamp based 5040/6040. These are all HDR capable projectors that don't "have to have" this setting, but it very well could result in better performance than one of the HDR modes. So far it think it does on the 5040 I have here and used as a test bed for this. To be fair, I could still work on tweaks to using just custom gamma on an HDR mode, like what Oledurt does, and in the end that could possibly come out better. I just haven't had time to do that part of it yet. The reason I like this HDR on SDR setting is because it seems to be universal to be used on all 4K displays, mainly projectors since they're dim, regardless of HDR capability or not.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an LS10000 on order from the amazing @Mike Garrett at AVS, so I will be able to better answer your question after I get it and have time to mess with it with these settings.


Cool!




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Dave Harper said:


> The most important settings are the gamma, contrast and setting it to SDR mode manually instead of HDR. (This is to simulate using a projector/display that isn't HDR capable, like the amazing LS10000, which I want to try this on and will post a similar post there in that thread):


Can you clear up this statement for me? I have the 5040UB.

Does this mean that I should manually set it to SDR or not since the 5040 does HDR? If not, which of the settings should I use?

And lastly, do the settings here only apply to the "Digital Cinema" color mode? I'm hoping I can save this as a preset in case I want to go back.

EDIT -> Maybe I'm looking at the wrong post. The one linked to in your signature references the LS1000. Is there a separate one for the 5040?


----------



## Dave Harper

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Can you clear up this statement for me? I have the 5040UB.
> 
> Does this mean that I should manually set it to SDR or not since the 5040 does HDR? If not, which of the settings should I use?
> 
> And lastly, do the settings here only apply to the "Digital Cinema" color mode? I'm hoping I can save this as a preset in case I want to go back.


Yes, set it manually to SDR mode in Digital Cinema color mode, then apply all the settings that I show in the link below my signature. The custom gamma, high contrast and setting to SDR are the most important. The gamma points and contrast can be tweaked to your liking some, these are just baseline. I have since tweaked what I posted some, like color saturation is down to about 73 and the second to the last point in the gamma drops from 16 to 15.

Yes, I did all this work only in Digital Cinema Mode, but I am sure something similar works in others with some adjustments to the baseline. Remember only the Digital Cinema and Cinema modes engage the P3 filter though.

I'm off to bed finally. I spent the night messing with this same tweak on a JVC RS600. It's a lot more complicated to do on this one, the sync times between adjustments, especially with the Linker in the chain, is maddening  , and I haven't quite gotten the results I have on the 5040 yet, but there's still time.


----------



## tigerfan33

Should the Phillips UHD player be set to default settings using Dave's settings on the 5040?


----------



## leo9000

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, set it manually to SDR mode in Digital Cinema color mode, then apply all the settings that I show in the link below my signature. The custom gamma, high contrast and setting to SDR are the most important. The gamma points and contrast can be tweaked to your liking some, these are just baseline. I have since tweaked what I posted some, like color saturation is down to about 73 and the second to the last point in the gamma drops from 16 to 15.
> 
> Yes, I did all this work only in Digital Cinema Mode, but I am sure something similar works in others with some adjustments to the baseline. Remember only the Digital Cinema and Cinema modes engage the P3 filter though.
> 
> I'm off to bed finally. I spent the night messing with this same tweak on a JVC RS600. It's a lot more complicated to do on this one, the sync times between adjustments, especially with the Linker in the chain, is maddening  , and I haven't quite gotten the results I have on the 5040 yet, but there's still time.


Quick question. I want to try these HarperVision settings out. If I go into Digital Cinema mode and make all the changes, is there a way to save these settings without overriding the regular Digital Cinema settings? I haven't really played around much with the settings on the 5040UB.

Thanks.


----------



## inspector

RyanChristopher said:


> So I know someone asked a page or two back what was the latest from Epson regarding the 3D Crosstalk issue. I originally contacted Epson about a week and a half ago just to file a complaint so they took the Crosstalk issue seriously. I emailed them my setting on both the projector and OPPO 203. They asked me to change one setting to which I did and reported that did nothing in fact I felt it made it worse. That was all last week and a week went by with nothing besides their engineers were going to look into it.
> Epson Support just sent me an email that said the following.
> "The engineers would like me to replace your projector with a new so we can get yours into our Corp HQ and take a look at it."
> So I am preparing to ship my projector to them tonight. Since the first 5040UB I bought had dead pixel issue I also requested them to test the new unit prior to shipping it and they agreed to tat but added it would add an extra day to the shipping process.
> So that is where I am at currently. Will report back when the new unit arrives and I can test it out.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Great news Ryan!


Hope they find a cure for our problem. Below is a thread that I started and could help you out.


John


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...on-5040-6040-3d-ghosting-crosstalk-issue.html


----------



## Brandon Beckstead

Savatage316 said:


> I'm getting so annoyed because nobody seems to have this issue I have.. But the thing is, the picture I get as is, is amazing so it's hard to be that upset with it. Still I just want to figure this out.
> 
> Is there a limit to hdmi cord length that could cause an issue?


Did you ever find a resolution for the screen turning pink while gaming in HDR on your ps4? I'm having the same problem when trying to play a game with HDR, the whole screen goes pink.....I don't know what to do.


----------



## Savatage316

Brandon Beckstead said:


> Did you ever find a resolution for the screen turning pink while gaming in HDR on your ps4? I'm having the same problem when trying to play a game with HDR, the whole screen goes pink.....I don't know what to do.



Nope, I gave up because it just seemed nobody else experienced it and nobody else seemed to have the issue on ps4. 

Some said it's the fact it can't do full hdr which is fine but on ps4 I assumed we could get 2k hdr, as some of the other guys loaded the same game without any pink screen. 

Still not sure what it is tho, nobody has a definitive answer. If you find something out please let me know tho


----------



## Brandon Beckstead

*HDR problem with PS4*

I could use some help, I'm pretty new with all of this. I just got an Epson 4040(which is similar to the 5040 I believe which is why I'm posting here) and expected HDR to work with my PS4. (I have a Marantz SR5011 receiver if that helps.) I have the video settings on my PS4 for HDR set to Automatic. The settings are the same on my Epson 4040, HDR is set to Automatic. When I play a game that uses HDR (Like Horizon Zero Dawn), the whole screen goes a weird purple/pink color. In the game settings for Horizon Zero Dawn I can turn off the HDR and everything goes back to normal. I have tried this with other games that use HDR and get the same result. Is there any solution to this? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,


----------



## SALadder22FF

tigerfan33 said:


> Should the Phillips UHD player be set to default settings using Dave's settings on the 5040?


I'm curious about this as well. I'm interested in seeing how this looks.

Also, do these settings only apply to 4k discs with HDR on them or will in enhance like DirecTV 4k channels as well?


----------



## Valleyboy

Quick question from a projector newbie, is the "Harper Vision Experience" (is that the sequel to the now defunct "Star Trek Experience" in Vegas?) only for 4K discs? Or is it good for Blu Rays as well?


----------



## macmanjpc

Hey all. Projector newbie so sorry if this is a stupid question. I'm currently framing up the basement theatre room and the plan is to mount the projector in a niche in the back wall. The wall is 16' from the screen. The screen size is 100" 16x9. As this would effectively have the projector sitting right side up on an elevated shelf I'm trying to determine the max height I can mount the projector shelf. When I review the projector specifications it has a diagram that shows dimensions for offset from lens center. It looks like there is a much greater offset to the bottom than the top. 27.8" top and 87.8" bottom to be exact. Does this mean I'll have to flip the projector upside down in order to mount it at the top of the wall? It seems weird that I would have to invert the projector 😞

Thanks for any help!
Jason.


----------



## Dave Harper

leo9000 said:


> Quick question. I want to try these HarperVision settings out. If I go into Digital Cinema mode and make all the changes, is there a way to save these settings without overriding the regular Digital Cinema settings? I haven't really played around much with the settings on the 5040UB.
> 
> Thanks.


I think you can save most of the settings into a memory and recall that whenever you need it. This way you can use Digital Cinema and set it back to defaults, then calibrate it as you wish and save that also as a memory to be recalled as needed. I think that's how it works, I haven't used memories really on this unit, except for lens memory anyway.

Do you have a calibrated setting in the DC mode that you wanted to preserve or something?




SALadder22FF said:


> I'm curious about this as well. I'm interested in seeing how this looks.
> 
> Also, do these settings only apply to 4k discs with HDR on them or will in enhance like DirecTV 4k channels as well?


It should work for those too, but I am sure you'd have to change some settings for DTV 4K since I don't think they support HDR, do they? There really isn't a reason to use these settings anyway if they don't send HDR, since the signal would be SDR to begin with.




Valleyboy said:


> Quick question from a projector newbie, is the "Harper Vision Experience" (is that the sequel to the now defunct "Star Trek Experience" in Vegas?) only for 4K discs? Or is it good for Blu Rays as well?


No, the HarperVision Experience is MUCH better than that old clunker Star Trek Experience, why do you think they shut that puppy down! 

HD Blurays are already SDR, so no reason to even use these settings, but if you come across an HDR standard 1080p bluray, then yes, but I haven't ever heard of any.


----------



## Dave Harper

macmanjpc said:


> Hey all. Projector newbie so sorry if this is a stupid question. I'm currently framing up the basement theatre room and the plan is to mount the projector in a niche in the back wall. The wall is 16' from the screen. The screen size is 100" 16x9. As this would effectively have the projector sitting right side up on an elevated shelf I'm trying to determine the max height I can mount the projector shelf. When I review the projector specifications it has a diagram that shows dimensions for offset from lens center. It looks like there is a much greater offset to the bottom than the top. 27.8" top and 87.8" bottom to be exact. Does this mean I'll have to flip the projector upside down in order to mount it at the top of the wall? It seems weird that I would have to invert the projector 😞
> 
> Thanks for any help!
> Jason.


What will the height of the top of your screen be? Will it be more than the 27" below where the projector would mount?

It's not really a big deal inverting the projector though, if you use some sort of cushion or mounting stand/feet, or even a ceiling mount in the niche. We do this all the time for the big events we do in my "real job", in order to meet some of the bad throw distances we're given to accommodate where the screens have to be placed in relation to the staging, decor, etc., especially for the rear projection ones.


----------



## Oledurt

Re: Epson 5040 Settings

After much experimenting I would like to share with you the best settings I have for digital cinema. Give them a try and let me know what you think.

On the Epson

Dynamic Range= Auto (bright)
Brightness= 67
Contrast= 27
Color Saturation= 50
Tint= 50
Epson Super White= On
Gamma =-1,0,0,-2,-4,-8,-11,-8,-5 (left to right)

On the Panasonic DMP UB 900

Dynamic Contrast= +4


These are the best settings I could find for Digital Cinema. I get good contrast, Decent average picture level. Good colors. I have the colors clip around 400 nits, and the whites clip around 800 nits. Black levels are good without crushing the blacks.

It is possible to use these without using the Dynamic Contrast on the panasonic but some may find it too dark. It counters the lowering of the APL due to Epson Super White being on.

Give it a try and let me know what you think.






























Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Dave Harper said:


> What will the height of the top of your screen be? Will it be more than the 27" below where the projector would mount?
> 
> It's not really a big deal inverting the projector though, if you use some sort of cushion or mounting stand/feet, or even a ceiling mount in the niche. We do this all the time for the big events we do in my "real job", in order to meet some of the bad throw distances we're given to accommodate where the screens have to be placed in relation to the staging, decor, etc., especially for the rear projection ones.


Mr Dave are your settings only if you have a Oppo, I have a Phillips uhd player


----------



## jladner

Dave Harper said:


> Haha....yes! They are created using my _vast knowledge_ of video signals and their characteristics from almost 30 years in the business. Something I like to call............(cue the music!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..................._"The HarperVision Experience"!!!_
> 
> 
> 
> (It's also the name of our company, HarperVision, LLC)




Thanks Dave!! These settings are AWESOME.
My new favorite saved memory setting on my Epson 5040ub:


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> Re: Epson 5040 Settings
> 
> After much experimenting I would like to share with you the best settings I have for digital cinema. Give them a try and let me know what you think.
> 
> On the Epson
> 
> Dynamic Range= Auto (bright)
> Brightness= 67
> Contrast= 27
> Color Saturation= 50
> Tint= 50
> Epson Super White= On
> Gamma =-1,0,0,-2,-4,-8,-11,-8,-5 (left to right)
> 
> On the Panasonic DMP UB 900
> 
> Dynamic Contrast= +4
> 
> 
> These are the best settings I could find for Digital Cinema. I get good contrast, Decent average picture level. Good colors. I have the colors clip around 400 nits, and the whites clip around 800 nits. Black levels are good without crushing the blacks.
> 
> It is possible to use these without using the Dynamic Contrast on the panasonic but some may find it too dark. It counters the lowering of the APL due to Epson Super White being on.
> 
> Give it a try and let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Thanks, will definitely try these and compare to the HDR-to-SDR conversion from Harpervision. Question, did you end up finding some good settings with Digital Cinema on Auto bright (HDR 1)?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

spirithockey79 said:


> Thanks, will definitely try these and compare to the HDR-to-SDR conversion from Harpervision. Question, did you end up finding some good settings with Digital Cinema on Auto bright (HDR 1)?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




lol yes try these settings they are for auto bright mode


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> lol yes try these settings they are for auto bright mode
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Sorry about that, for some reason my brain was thinking your settings were for HDR2 Auto.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Boldlygo

Boldlygo said:


> And I still cannot any 4K disc to look as good as it's bluray version with respect to colours. The bluray looks fantastic. I have made all the setting changes needed. I have the OPPO 203 with a 35' cable. The info on the OPPO and Epson show HDR is passing through.
> 
> I've tried 3 different 35' cables directly from the back of the OPPO. I've tried temporarily moving the OPPO right underneath my Epson using the OPPO HDMI cable. I've even tried the Samsung 4K player from a relative - makes NO difference. 4K colours are never as good as the bluray. What gives????




Follow up-I contacted Epson support today and explained this problem. I did a firmware upgrade and a reset to the projector. Sent them some photo comparisons (attached here) and showed them how the 4K looks compared to the Bluray. They are sending me out a new unit to try (advanced replacement). I sure hope this fixes my picture problem with 4K. (1st pic is 4K, 2nd is BR)


----------



## Dave Harper

dholmes54 said:


> Mr Dave are your settings only if you have a Oppo, I have a Phillips uhd player


I have the Panasonic UB900, not the Oppo yet. I was about to buy one, but then reports weren't good initially and many were liking the UB900 better, and still are, so I will continue to use it.

Any UHD player should work, as long as you can use an SDR mode on your projector and trick your UHD player into sending full HDR WCG using either the display's settings or something like an HDFury Linker, even on an SDR only 4K display! Which was kind of the point as to why I even attempted this. It was a bonus that it seems to have resulted in even better performance than the actual HDR modes on the 5040 (so far and to me anyway)! 




jladner said:


> Thanks Dave!! These settings are AWESOME.
> My new favorite saved memory setting on my Epson 5040ub:


You'e welcome jladner!  I see you're from PA? So am I originally before I moved here about 8 years ago. What neck of the woods are you in? And speaking of woods in PA, watch out for those ticks and Lyme Disease man, it wrecked my life dude, *BIG TIME!* 

Maybe we can hook up and play home theater when I am back that way, or I can come do a calibration or something.


----------



## RyanChristopher

inspector said:


> Great news Ryan!
> 
> 
> Hope they find a cure for our problem. Below is a thread that I started and could help you out.
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...on-5040-6040-3d-ghosting-crosstalk-issue.html




Thanks I'll post back here and on that thread when I get the new unit in setup and tested. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jbrazda

My 5040 will be arriving tomorrow along with 120" silver ticket screen. Never had a projector before. Any setup/install tips?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

I'd try Harper's settings, but I had my 6040 calibrated on CINEMA mode, not DIGITAL mode.


----------



## bommai

I have had my 5040ub for a week now but only watched movies and some tv shows on it. Today I hooked up my Mac mini and actually used a white background and to my horror I am setting a pink blotch in the middle. Is that a dust blob? Can they be removed or do I have to get this replaced. Yikes. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

bommai said:


> I have had my 5040ub for a week now but only watched movies and some tv shows on it. Today I hooked up my Mac mini and actually used a white background and to my horror I am setting a pink blotch in the middle. Is that a dust blob? Can they be removed or do I have to get this replaced. Yikes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Send this right over to Epson and see what they say...good luck!


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> Re: Epson 5040 Settings
> 
> After much experimenting I would like to share with you the best settings I have for digital cinema. Give them a try and let me know what you think.
> 
> On the Epson
> 
> Dynamic Range= Auto (bright)
> Brightness= 67
> Contrast= 27
> Color Saturation= 50
> Tint= 50
> Epson Super White= On
> Gamma =-1,0,0,-2,-4,-8,-11,-8,-5 (left to right)
> 
> On the Panasonic DMP UB 900
> 
> Dynamic Contrast= +4
> 
> 
> These are the best settings I could find for Digital Cinema. I get good contrast, Decent average picture level. Good colors. I have the colors clip around 400 nits, and the whites clip around 800 nits. Black levels are good without crushing the blacks.
> 
> It is possible to use these without using the Dynamic Contrast on the panasonic but some may find it too dark. It counters the lowering of the APL due to Epson Super White being on.
> 
> Give it a try and let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hi, thanks for posting these, did you get my message though ?. 
Thanks.


----------



## Dave Harper

inspector said:


> I'd try Harper's settings, but I had my 6040 calibrated on CINEMA mode, not DIGITAL mode.



So just put my settings in the Digital Cinema mode.


----------



## c.kingsley

Oledurt said:


> Re: Epson 5040 Settings
> 
> After much experimenting I would like to share with you the best settings I have for digital cinema. Give them a try and let me know what you think.
> 
> On the Epson
> 
> Dynamic Range= Auto (bright)
> Brightness= 67
> Contrast= 27
> Color Saturation= 50
> Tint= 50
> Epson Super White= On
> Gamma =-1,0,0,-2,-4,-8,-11,-8,-5 (left to right)
> 
> On the Panasonic DMP UB 900
> 
> Dynamic Contrast= +4
> 
> 
> These are the best settings I could find for Digital Cinema. I get good contrast, Decent average picture level. Good colors. I have the colors clip around 400 nits, and the whites clip around 800 nits. Black levels are good without crushing the blacks.
> 
> It is possible to use these without using the Dynamic Contrast on the panasonic but some may find it too dark. It counters the lowering of the APL due to Epson Super White being on.
> 
> Give it a try and let me know what you think.


I was playing around last night with the Sony patterns on Underworld UHD to set contrast using Digital Cinema mode. I am not certain I'm performing the white clipping correctly, but I also ended up at 27 for contrast. At 27, the 1000 nit bar is visible and the 1100 is not. At 28 contrast, the 1100 bar becomes visible. As you noticed, this yields a picture that most would consider too dim. I am considering the Panasonic UHD player for its brightness adjustment but did I set the white clipping correctly?


----------



## macmanjpc

Dave Harper said:


> What will the height of the top of your screen be? Will it be more than the 27" below where the projector would mount?
> 
> It's not really a big deal inverting the projector though, if you use some sort of cushion or mounting stand/feet, or even a ceiling mount in the niche. We do this all the time for the big events we do in my "real job", in order to meet some of the bad throw distances we're given to accommodate where the screens have to be placed in relation to the staging, decor, etc., especially for the rear projection ones.


Thanks Dave. The top of the screen is approximately 10" below the projector. The Epson diagram and specifications show the max 22.7" offset from the center of the screen though, not the top. Here's the info from Epson...


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs again Dave


----------



## jladner

Dave Harper said:


> You'e welcome jladner!  I see you're from PA? So am I originally before I moved here about 8 years ago. What neck of the woods are you in? And speaking of woods in PA, watch out for those ticks and Lyme Disease man, it wrecked my life dude, *BIG TIME!*
> 
> Maybe we can hook up and play home theater when I am back that way, or I can come do a calibration or something.


Western PA - North of Pittsburgh. We had a mild winter = lots and lots of ticks.. 

I had set up my theater on my own using a few of the calibration discs I have. It looked pretty good to me. When I put in your settings it was like seeing an HDTV for the first time.. I couldn't believe this projector could look so good. Now I need to get more 4k discs to enjoy.:grin:


----------



## elmalloc

Without having to read pages of threads what are Dave harper's settings for? HDR UHD only, but in SDR mode (???).


----------



## seplant

elmalloc said:


> Without having to read pages of threads what are Dave harper's settings for? HDR UHD only, but in SDR mode (???).


Yep!


----------



## robc1976

Anybody here know the throw distance on 138" min/max


----------



## Dave Harper

macmanjpc said:


> Thanks Dave. The top of the screen is approximately 10" below the projector. The Epson diagram and specifications show the max 22.7" offset from the center of the screen though, not the top. Here's the info from Epson...



OK thanks for the explanation. Have you gone here and used the calculator to determine what works for your setup?

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## bommai

What's the consensus here regarding the best uhd player for the 5040ub. I had my eyes set on the Sony. But is the Panasonic better. It is way more expensive though. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

seplant said:


> Yep!




So if I'm trying to watch a 4K UHD HDR movie, these settings will not work? I have a Phillips player and no external linker of any sort to strip the HDR but keep the WCG. Does that mean my setup is not equipped to work correctly with Harpervision?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

JewDaddy said:


> So if I'm trying to watch a 4K UHD HDR movie, these settings will not work? I have a Phillips player and no external linker of any sort to strip the HDR but keep the WCG. Does that mean my setup is not equipped to work correctly with Harpervision?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


We're not talking about stripping HDR. The HDR signal with WCG gets to the projector but you tell the projector to display in SDR mode. Then the Harpervision settings do their magic.


----------



## whmacs

bommai said:


> What's the consensus here regarding the best uhd player for the 5040ub. I had my eyes set on the Sony. But is the Panasonic better. It is way more expensive though.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi Bommai,
Have you seen this video?




I've had the Panasonic since August and it has been great. No issues and plays everything I throw at it. The latest firmware with its HDR enhancements make it a perfect match for the Epson. I also have an Oppo 103D and I find the image better letting the Panasonic upscale the picture to 4k than sending 1080p (from the Oppo) and letting the Epson do it. Saying that, with MKV or MP4 files the Oppo 103D does a better job due to its Darbee processing.

Sorry, I can't comment on the Sony or Philips players as they are not available in Australia yet.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## JewDaddy

seplant said:


> We're not talking about stripping HDR. The HDR signal with WCG gets to the projector but you tell the projector to display in SDR mode. Then the Harpervision settings do their magic.




Very interesting. I'll give them a try and compare to my HDR settings I've come up with and take pics for you guys to see. I feel like I've been tweaking this projector for 8 months now and finally got a great looking HDR picture. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

I am a bit stuck, how do I get picture to fit a 2.35 screen? I have bars on sides? I try to zoom out and picture goes on outside of frame?


----------



## elmalloc

seplant said:


> We're not talking about stripping HDR. The HDR signal with WCG gets to the projector but you tell the projector to display in SDR mode. Then the Harpervision settings do their magic.


OK, so what is the benefit of doing this though? Is this for setups where HDR is displayed too dark? Thank you for the explanation. This sounds like a great thing Dave Harper has done for us, but I think some of us are missing just one or two sentences about what the purpose is.

Thanks!
ELmO


----------



## robc1976

Installer has projector set at 24ft from screen and says I need to go back farther or get different protector said 5040 is not capable of 2.35? There has to be solution as many here run 2.35


----------



## seplant

elmalloc said:


> OK, so what is the benefit of doing this though? Is this for setups where HDR is displayed too dark? Thank you for the explanation. This sounds like a great thing Dave Harper has done for us, but I think some of us are missing just one or two sentences about what the purpose is.
> 
> Thanks!
> ELmO


Would probably be best if you read Dave's posts when he first described this discovery of his several days ago. Unless Dave himself wants to jump in.


----------



## elmalloc

seplant said:


> Would probably be best if you read Dave's posts when he first described this discovery of his several days ago. Unless Dave himself wants to jump in.


I would prefer he or someone else jump in then, this thread is too long (lol) and I was hoping someone could explain it. Thanks!


----------



## Dave Harper

bommai said:


> What's the consensus here regarding the best uhd player for the 5040ub. I had my eyes set on the Sony. But is the Panasonic better. It is way more expensive though.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



From all I have read, yes the Panasonic is arguably the best one out for now, with the Oppo being ever so slightly behind or ahead dependent on your needs. I haven't tried a Sony yet, but I hear it's very good too. That video comparison that's posted does well at explaining between the UB900 and 203. 

I personally think the UB900 is the best UHD Bluray to use with the 5040/6040, if only for the new Dynamic Range tone brightness slider because when set to the proper mode for HDR with the WCG filter, these Epsons just aren't bright enough for most situations (unless you use the slider or employ my HDR on SDR HarperVision settings).

Only you can really decide though, if it's worth the extra budget over the Sony to go with the UB900. It was for me, but I also got a great price as I found an open box in excellent condition at BB for only $470. I would look for used ones from members here since a lot of folks got the Oppo 203 and have listed their UB900s. 




JewDaddy said:


> So if I'm trying to watch a 4K UHD HDR movie, these settings will not work? I have a Phillips player and no external linker of any sort to strip the HDR but keep the WCG. Does that mean my setup is not equipped to work correctly with Harpervision?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





seplant said:


> We're not talking about stripping HDR. The HDR signal with WCG gets to the projector but you tell the projector to display in SDR mode. Then the Harpervision settings do their magic.



Seplant is correct, and one of the settings, at least in the Epsons, is to manually select SDR mode initially because it will default to an HDR mode when it receives that signal. Just save the settings into a memory to be recalled as needed. 




elmalloc said:


> OK, so what is the benefit of doing this though? Is this for setups where HDR is displayed too dark? Thank you for the explanation. This sounds like a great thing Dave Harper has done for us, but I think some of us are missing just one or two sentences about what the purpose is.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ELmO



Yes, one benefit is that it brightens the image throughout the whole range, without crushing black (it actually reveals tons of low black shadow details, which is what I LOVE personally!) or blowing out white details and specular highlights that HDR is known for (the other feature I love about HDR!). It also seems to give the mids an almost DLP like POP to them and with a very analog look without being too harsh or digitized looking. The brightness advantage doesn't mean as much for UB900 player owners now, with the new HDR DR slider (similar to what the newer Sony 4K SXRDs offer). 

The other advantage is that I feel it shows a better image on projectors than the prior solutions for HDR "tone mapping" on lower lumen/nit projectors and displays. This includes stripping HDR using an hdfury device or Oppo 203 to get SDR bt2020 WCG. It also includes being better than the stock HDR settings in the projectors I've had and have here so far. But the good thing is, this can most likely be applied to those as well. In fact I just spent the last two nights messing with this on a JVC RS600 and the results on that are also quite great so far, although it's very similar on the JVCs to what those amazing guys like Manni, Arve, Javs, Seegs, LovingDVD, Zombie10K, Andreas21, etc. (sorry if I missed anyone!) are doing with the custom gamma curves and Arve's awesome tool. 

The main and biggest reason I even attempted this and what I think is a HUGE benefit for it, is the fact that these settings can allow projecting true HDR with wide color gamut on a 4K non-HDR capable spec projector or display, like many flat screen UHD TVs and the Epson LS10000 and new 4K DLPs like the BenQ X11000/12000 that have WCG 4K, but no HDR. In fact, I have an LS10000 on order and I really want to try to get a BenQ X12000 here to test too.


----------



## elmalloc

Excellent!


----------



## macmanjpc

Dave Harper said:


> OK thanks for the explanation. Have you gone here and used the calculator to determine what works for your setup?
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


I have but the calculator doesn't show mounting height that I can tell.


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> From all I have read, yes the Panasonic is arguably the best one out for now, with the Oppo being ever so slightly behind or ahead dependent on your needs. I haven't tried a Sony yet, but I hear it's very good too. That video comparison that's posted does well at explaining between the UB900 and 203.
> 
> I personally think the UB900 is the best UHD Bluray to use with the 5040/6040, if only for the new Dynamic Range tone brightness slider because when set to the proper mode for HDR with the WCG filter, these Epsons just aren't bright enough for most situations (unless you use the slider or employ my HDR on SDR HarperVision settings).
> 
> Only you can really decide though, if it's worth the extra budget over the Sony to go with the UB900. It was for me, but I also got a great price as I found an open box in excellent condition at BB for only $470. I would look for used ones from members here since a lot of folks got the Oppo 203 and have listed their UB900s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seplant is correct, and one of the settings, at least in the Epsons, is to manually select SDR mode initially because it will default to an HDR mode when it receives that signal. Just save the settings into a memory to be recalled as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, one benefit is that it brightens the image throughout the whole range, without crushing black (it actually reveals tons of low black shadow details, which is what I LOVE personally!) or blowing out white details and specular highlights that HDR is known for (the other feature I love about HDR!). It also seems to give the mids an almost DLP like POP to them and with a very analog look without being too harsh or digitized looking. The brightness advantage doesn't mean as much for UB900 player owners now, with the new HDR DR slider (similar to what the newer Sony 4K SXRDs offer).
> 
> The other advantage is that I feel it shows a better image on projectors than the prior solutions for HDR "tone mapping" on lower lumen/nit projectors and displays. This includes stripping HDR using an hdfury device or Oppo 203 to get SDR bt2020 WCG. It also includes being better than the stock HDR settings in the projectors I've had and have here so far. But the good thing is, this can most likely be applied to those as well. In fact I just spent the last two nights messing with this on a JVC RS600 and the results on that are also quite great so far, although it's very similar on the JVCs to what those amazing guys like Manni, Arve, Javs, Seegs, LovingDVD, Zombie10K, Andreas21, etc. (sorry if I missed anyone!) are doing with the custom gamma curves and Arve's awesome tool.
> 
> The main and biggest reason I even attempted this and what I think is a HUGE benefit for it, is the fact that these settings can allow projecting true HDR with wide color gamut on a 4K non-HDR capable spec projector or display, like many flat screen UHD TVs and the Epson LS10000 and new 4K DLPs like the BenQ X11000/12000 that have WCG 4K, but no HDR. In fact, I have an LS10000 on order and I really want to try to get a BenQ X12000 here to test too.




Dave, since you use the Panny UB900 that has the new HDR brightness adjustment slider, can you confirm that you DON'T use this when using your HDR-to-SDR conversion settings? I have an Oppo 203 which doesn't have this type of feature, so want to make sure all of the adjustments should be made only on the Epson. Meaning I shouldn't make any picture setting changes on the Oppo when using your settings. Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> Re: Epson 5040 Settings
> 
> After much experimenting I would like to share with you the best settings I have for digital cinema. Give them a try and let me know what you think.
> 
> On the Epson
> 
> Dynamic Range= Auto (bright)
> Brightness= 67
> Contrast= 27
> Color Saturation= 50
> Tint= 50
> Epson Super White= On
> Gamma =-1,0,0,-2,-4,-8,-11,-8,-5 (left to right)
> 
> On the Panasonic DMP UB 900
> 
> Dynamic Contrast= +4
> 
> 
> These are the best settings I could find for Digital Cinema. I get good contrast, Decent average picture level. Good colors. I have the colors clip around 400 nits, and the whites clip around 800 nits. Black levels are good without crushing the blacks.
> 
> It is possible to use these without using the Dynamic Contrast on the panasonic but some may find it too dark. It counters the lowering of the APL due to Epson Super White being on.
> 
> Give it a try and let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




When you say Dynamic Contrast, is this just a contrast setting in your UB900 or is it the HDR Brightness Range Adjustment feature in the UB900? I don't have a Panny, I have the Oppo 203. Just trying to figure out if raising my contrast setting in the Oppo to match your Dynamic Contrast setting might achieve the same result, or whether it's totally different due to being a specific feature that works with HDR in your Panny. Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

macmanjpc said:


> I have but the calculator doesn't show mounting height that I can tell.


Ok sorry. I was on my phone at the time and it doesn't support the Flash for the calc. I don't usually use that one. I have an app on my phone I use.

Try this one then:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...preview-release-web-projector-calculator.html 



spirithockey79 said:


> Dave, since you use the Panny UB900 that has the new HDR brightness adjustment slider, can you confirm that you DON'T use this when using your HDR-to-SDR conversion settings? I have an Oppo 203 which doesn't have this type of feature, so want to make sure all of the adjustments should be made only on the Epson. Meaning I shouldn't make any picture setting changes on the Oppo when using your settings. Thanks
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Confirmed, I DO NOT normally use the UB900's HDR DR brightness slider, but it could be useful to use for different UHD discs that may be mastered at different nit levels. It's reported that as many as 40% of the UHD titles are mastered at 4000 nits (Thanks @Javs!). My settings are based on 1000 - 1200 nit levels using the R.Masciola patterns. I really haven't done this yet, but I would think that you should use the slider to taste on different discs and leave the projector settings as is. Maybe I will find a 4000 nit disc and test this.



spirithockey79 said:


> When you say Dynamic Contrast, is this just a contrast setting in your UB900 or is it the HDR Brightness Range Adjustment feature in the UB900? I don't have a Panny, I have the Oppo 203. Just trying to figure out if raising my contrast setting in the Oppo to match your Dynamic Contrast setting might achieve the same result, or whether it's totally different due to being a specific feature that works with HDR in your Panny. Thanks
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I believe he means the HDR Brightness slider, not regular contrast adjsutment.


----------



## Dave Harper

seplant said:


> Yep!


Wow, that's an awesome Mini-Wiki Link you posted! I didn't notice that the first time I read your post!:eeksurprise:


----------



## Javs

Dave Harper said:


> Confirmed, I DO NOT normally use the UB900's HDR DR brightness slider, but it could be useful to use for different UHD discs that may be mastered at different nit levels. It's reported that as many as 40% of the UHD titles are mastered at 4000 nits (Thanks @*Javs* !). My settings are based on 1000 - 1200 nit levels using the R.Masciola patterns. I really haven't done this yet, but I would think that you should use the slider to taste on different discs and leave the projector settings as is. Maybe I will find a 4000 nit disc and test this.
> 
> I believe he means the HDR Brightness slider, not regular contrast adjsutment.


My UB900 is in the shop since it decided not to play discs at all anymore, havent tried the slider yet but cant wait to see, people reporting +3 is about the limit where you wanna use it.

Here is the doc listing all the clipping master levels on a whole bunch of UHD discs, suggest you bookmark.

42% according to the list, and almost all of the 69 titles there are 0.005 black level mastered.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...u4UI_yp7sxOVPIccob6fRe85_A/edit#gid=184653968


----------



## Dave Harper

Javs said:


> That slider is only days old, have you played with it yet? My player is in the shop since it decided not to play discs at all anymore.
> 
> The slider will lift the midtones rather than just the clipping ceiling.
> 
> Here is the doc listing all the clipping master levels on a whole bunch of UHD discs, suggest you bookmark.
> 
> 42% according to the list, and almost all of the 69 titles there are 0.005 black level mastered.
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...u4UI_yp7sxOVPIccob6fRe85_A/edit#gid=184653968


Yes, thanks for the link and I'll bookmark it for sure. I will make it a point to play with those titles too and see what works best. Good luck with your UB900 repair!


----------



## seplant

Dave Harper said:


> Wow, that's an awesome Mini-Wiki Link you posted! I didn't notice that the first time I read you post!:eeksurprise:


Thanks! I have yet to pick up a UHD blu-ray player so I can try your settings for HDR material. I'm pretty fed up with the 3D ghosting on this projector, however. I'm considering dumping it for a JVC unless Epson does something to fix it soon !

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## Dave Harper

seplant said:


> Thanks! I have yet to pick up a UHD blu-ray player so I can try your settings for HDR material. I'm pretty fed up with the 3D ghosting on this projector, however. I'm considering dumping it for a JVC unless Epson does something to fix it soon !


I hears ya man. Maybe you will change your mind after after "The HarperVision Experience" infects your brain on it, haha!

I will probably have this tricked out JVC RS600 that already has these custom settings on it and an ISF calibration, available if you're interested. I think it will be better than what we see on the 5040 when I am done. It may be already, but I just haven't compared yet. I just got to that "A-Ha"  moment very late last night on it, so haven't seen the 5040 in a couple nights now for reference. They are so close and I get such great performance out of the 5040, and maybe the LS10000, that right now I don't want to spend the extra finances for the RS600. I will let this ride out and get back on track and then see what's released later at CEDIA/CES timeframe.


----------



## bommai

Good news guys and I wish I had called Epson earlier today. I just called them and they are overnighting me a new 5040ub as a warranty replacement. I need to send defective one back (I got a pink dust blob). Since I called them too late, they won't ship until tomorrow which means I won't get it until Monday. Yikes. But that's ok I guess. Hopefully the replacement one is free of defects. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

One reason I would like to get the Sony x800 instead of panny is the price. The other reason is sacd. I have a bunch of sacds I would like to play. Also I don't really need multi channel analog since my receiver has hdmi 1.4 with audio support. If I do use Harper sdr settings, then I might not need the manual hdr settings of the penny right. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

bommai said:


> One reason I would like to get the Sony x800 instead of panny is the price. The other reason is sacd. I have a bunch of sacds I would like to play. Also I don't really need multi channel analog since my receiver has hdmi 1.4 with audio support. If I do use Harper sdr settings, then I might not need the manual hdr settings of the penny right.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, that's true. You won't have to have the HDR Brightness Slider on the UB900. Sounds like the Sony is the best fit for you bommai.


----------



## bommai

I see the 3d ghosting as well. Oh well. I think since so many people are seeing it, they either have bad hardware by design or bad software. Hope it is software that can be fixed. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## schmidtwi

robc1976 said:


> Installer has projector set at 24ft from screen and says I need to go back farther or get different protector said 5040 is not capable of 2.35? There has to be solution as many here run 2.35


Your installer is an idiot. This projector has more capabilities than he does. Go to http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm and find the size screen you have and the throw distance you need. Then install the pj at the right distance and get your money back from the idiotinstaller...


----------



## bommai

schmidtwi said:


> Your installer is an idiot. This projector has more capabilities than he does. Go to http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm and find the size screen you have and the throw distance you need.



The farther you go, the dimmer the picture will be. You will want to go as close as possible to get the size you want and the calculator will give you that. I am about 15' away from a 150" screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I am a bit stuck, how do I get picture to fit a 2.35 screen? I have bars on sides? I try to zoom out and picture goes on outside of frame?





robc1976 said:


> Installer has projector set at 24ft from screen and says I need to go back farther or get different protector said 5040 is not capable of 2.35? There has to be solution as many here run 2.35



Yes, if your screen is 2.35:1 and you are playing 4:3 or 16:9 material then you'll have pillar bars on each side. 

When you play a wider aspect ratio movie like 2.35:1 then you should use the zoom and shift lens functions to fit the video image (zoom the black bars off screen) onto your screen. Each movie may be different as some are 2.39(2.40):1 so zoom it however you need to in order to hit either the sides or top/bottom edges of the screen material. One area may have a very slight black bar, depending on your true aspect ratio of your screen. 

What size is your screen? 24' seems like more than enough unless you have a giant screen? Mine is 137" diagonal 2.39:1 screen and I am at about 16' throw lens to screen and have some room to spare. You can do just as I said to show scope movies at 2.35/9:1. This is called the zoom method. There's also another way using an anamorphic lens. 

It doesn't sound like your installer knows what he's doing to be honest with you.


----------



## crestron

Windows 10 major upgrade Creators 1703 successfully lit HDR
http://www.hd199.com/thread-1130310-1-1.html


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, if your screen is 2.35:1 and you are playing 4:3 or 16:9 material then you'll have pillar bars on each side.
> 
> When you play a wider aspect ratio movie like 2.35:1 then you should use the zoom and shift lens functions to fit the video image (zoom the black bars off screen) onto your screen. Each movie may be different as some are 2.39(2.40):1 so zoom it however you need to in order to hit either the sides or top/bottom edges of the screen material. One area may have a very slight black bar, depending on your true aspect ratio of your screen.
> 
> What size is your screen? 24' seems like more than enough unless you have a giant screen? Mine is 137" diagonal 2.39:1 screen and I am at about 16' throw lens to screen and have some room to spare. You can do just as I said to show scope movies at 2.35/9:1. This is called the zoom method. There's also another way using an anamorphic lens.
> 
> It doesn't sound like your installer knows what he's doing to be honest with you.


 the reason it was not fitting is because it was to far away, moved it forward at about 22ft and that fixed the issue.

You just answered my other question, so its the material that dictates 2.35 vs 16.9. I was watching "tron" and it goes from 16.9 to 2.35 white frequently so I am guessing it's best to just leave the screen at 16.9 with masking and let it switch between since its not shot in one format?


----------



## webmst

So for those seeking a "where are all the Epson 5040 settings I need in 1 spot" (with no searching) fix see attached parts 1 & 2.


----------



## webmst

And part 2 attached.


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks does it include Harper vision?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## webmst

here's part 3 - I've just included the Epson notes here.

Also - I think I mentioned it before - I talked to an Epson Tech who said the "High Altitude" setting (which increases fan speed to account for air pressure drop above 5,000 feet) can be used in normal installs to improve lamp life.
So I mused if that setting (if your ears can stand it) could bring the lamp operating temp down then could it also possibly (although this I admit is a bit of a stretch.... hee hee) improve performance . Another thing to think about........

Many thanks to Dave, Oledurt et al for all your thoughts and help..

Newbies - if you just want all the info without the thread deep-diving, grab those pdf's and have a read - the last settings are the most recent.............


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> the reason it was not fitting is because it was to far away, moved it forward at about 22ft and that fixed the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> You just answered my other question, so its the material that dictates 2.35 vs 16.9. I was watching "tron" and it goes from 16.9 to 2.35 white frequently so I am guessing it's best to just leave the screen at 16.9 with masking and let it switch between since its not shot in one format?



I usually zoom to the 2.35:1 area and then use the projector's electronic masking settings on top and bottom so that crazy AR change isn't even noticed.


----------



## seplant

robc1976 said:


> the reason it was not fitting is because it was to far away, moved it forward at about 22ft and that fixed the issue.
> 
> You just answered my other question, so its the material that dictates 2.35 vs 16.9. I was watching "tron" and it goes from 16.9 to 2.35 white frequently so I am guessing it's best to just leave the screen at 16.9 with masking and let it switch between since its not shot in one format?


See this thread for a list of blu-rays with variable aspect ratios.


----------



## arpatel

robc1976 said:


> Installer has projector set at 24ft from screen and says I need to go back farther or get different protector said 5040 is not capable of 2.35? There has to be solution as many here run 2.35


Epson 5040 ub does not have vertical stretch mode for a cinemascope screen and A lens : cheapest way on a 1:2.35 screen is to zoom the picture : Black bars will bleed at the top and bottom of the screen :I use it without problem : Expensive option will be to use a anamorphic lens and either oppo UHD player with v stretch mode, or a UHD receiver that will do V stretch ( Denon receiver does it ) or a external scaler : Epson 6040 has a v stretch mode that can be used with Anamorphic lens :


----------



## seplant

arpatel said:


> Epson 5040 ub does not have vertical stretch mode for a cinemascope screen and A lens : cheapest way on a 1:2.35 screen is to zoom the picture : Black bars will bleed at the top and bottom of the screen :I use it without problem : Expensive option will be to use a anamorphic lens and either oppo UHD player with v stretch mode, or a UHD receiver that will do V stretch ( Denon receiver does it ) or a external scaler : Epson 6040 has a v stretch mode that can be used with Anamorphic lens :


The Blanking feature can also be used to blank out any content above and below a 2.35:1 screen for blu-rays with variable aspect ratios, but the black bars will still be there. Unfortunately, the blanking settings can't be saved to memory.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I usually zoom to the 2.35:1 area and then use the projector's electronic masking settings on top and bottom so that crazy AR change isn't even noticed.


 this only applies to a movie shot in 2:35 correct, because if it goes to 16:9 you will get bars correct?


----------



## robc1976

seplant said:


> The Blanking feature can also be used to blank out any content above and below a 2.35:1 screen for blu-rays with variable aspect ratios, but the black bars will still be there. Unfortunately, the blanking settings can't be saved to memory.


I will for sure, I have never looked at screen gormats since I had a TV, totally different world. So much better.

Very impressed with this projector, looked better than my highly calibrated T.V and that is out of the box


----------



## elmalloc

Perhaps the installer meant the 5040 does not have anamorphic squeeze. That is one major difference between it, and the 6040 (from what I read).

My main theater setup is a Sim2 with squeeze and lens. I love 2.35 content. The Epson is doing very well with 4K content of all types, netflix/etc. I'm happy with it. But if I wanted to do a 2.35 setup I would probably go back to my lens, it's the only way to get as large as possible in 2.4 and limit light loss, AFAIK.

In order for the 5040 to work with an anamorphic lens, I believe you need a squeeze capable player like the OPPO to do it for you.

If you are dealing with very large 2.4 image sizes, I recommend the lens approach.


----------



## elmalloc

webmst said:


> here's part 3 - I've just included the Epson notes here.
> 
> Also - I think I mentioned it before - I talked to an Epson Tech who said the "High Altitude" setting (which increases fan speed to account for air pressure drop above 5,000 feet) can be used in normal installs to improve lamp life.
> So I mused if that setting (if your ears can stand it) could bring the lamp operating temp down then could it also possibly (although this I admit is a bit of a stretch.... hee hee) improve performance . Another thing to think about........
> 
> Many thanks to Dave, Oledurt et al for all your thoughts and help..
> 
> Newbies - if you just want all the info without the thread deep-diving, grab those pdf's and have a read - the last settings are the most recent.............


I'm starting to think Dave Harper should sell a hush box for us to go along with his settings. HarperHush with HarperVision, on sale for a low price of 1MM.

Kidding aside, I didn't try HarperVision yet but I know in high lamp mode (with my projector 6ft above my head), it's pretty loud. Perhaps loudest projector I've had. In normal lamp mode, no issues though. I did originally toy with HDR settings in high lamp mode and it barely made it usable in some of the test scenes (I'm at a very short throw for 110", about 10.5ft away, so I'm getting a lot of light hit the screen, which helps HDR).

I'm eager to find time to try HarperVision and retry some of the test scenes in The martian. Planet earth 2 already looks pretty amazing but most HDR has not do well in my setup other than that. I use the Phillips UHD player.

A-B'ing The Martian in HDR vs SDR made me almost cry that we couldn't get HDR to work well without HarperVision. PlanetEarth 2 does make me cry at its beauty with HDR and without harperVision...I will try The Martian in HDR tonight with HarperVision SDR and report back.


----------



## ruggercb

Does anyone here use this for gaming, specifically pc? I'm looking to upgrade from my benq w1070. Already have an A lens, running 2560x1080 down-sampled on a 125" scope screen from approx 10'.

I'm wondering if it will be a huge tangible difference in brightness/contrast/clarity. Thanks!


----------



## seplant

elmalloc said:


> Perhaps the installer meant the 5040 does not have anamorphic squeeze. That is one major difference between it, and the 6040 (from what I read).
> 
> My main theater setup is a Sim2 with squeeze and lens. I love 2.35 content. The Epson is doing very well with 4K content of all types, netflix/etc. I'm happy with it. But if I wanted to do a 2.35 setup I would probably go back to my lens, it's the only way to get as large as possible in 2.4 and limit light loss, AFAIK.
> 
> In order for the 5040 to work with an anamorphic lens, I believe you need a squeeze capable player like the OPPO to do it for you.
> 
> If you are dealing with very large 2.4 image sizes, I recommend the lens approach.


I just switched to a constant height 120-inch wide AT screen using only the lens zoom & shift on the 6040, and let me tell you, it's plenty bright, even in Eco mode!


----------



## elmalloc

I get it, it's a tradeoff between lens distortion vs. lumens loss and resolution loss. People say they don't see much light loss with newer projectors. But sometimes there isn't room to create the image size without a lens. 

For example, I have "livable" distortion with my projector 16ft away creating a 13-14ft wide image.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> this only applies to a movie shot in 2:35 correct, because if it goes to 16:9 you will get bars correct?



No, all that material is mastered in 16:9. 2.35:1 video is just inside that 16:9 frame, with black bars top and bottom. What you're doing is zooming into that 2.35:1 part to basically fill your 2.35:1 screen, hence as was said the black bars are pushed off the top and bottom of the screen when zooming in. 

For these movies with both ARs, the 16:9 video, when it appears, expands out to fill those top and bottom letterbox bars that are there and zoomed off the screen, thus spilling that video off of the top and bottom of your screen too. By using electronic masking adjusted right to the edges of the top and bottom of your 2.35:1 image, when those letterbox bars turn to actual video, you won't see them because they're now blanked out. 

Does that clear it up?




elmalloc said:


> I'm starting to think Dave Harper should sell a hush box for us to go along with his settings. HarperHush with HarperVision, on sale for a low price of 1MM.
> 
> 
> 
> Kidding aside, I didn't try HarperVision yet but I know in high lamp mode (with my projector 6ft above my head), it's pretty loud. Perhaps loudest projector I've had. In normal lamp mode, no issues though. I did originally toy with HDR settings in high lamp mode and it barely made it usable in some of the test scenes (I'm at a very short throw for 110", about 10.5ft away, so I'm getting a lot of light hit the screen, which helps HDR).
> 
> 
> 
> I'm eager to find time to try HarperVision and retry some of the test scenes in The martian. Planet earth 2 already looks pretty amazing but most HDR has not do well in my setup other than that. I use the Phillips UHD player.
> 
> 
> 
> A-B'ing The Martian in HDR vs SDR made me almost cry that we couldn't get HDR to work well without HarperVision. PlanetEarth 2 does make me cry at its beauty with HDR and without harperVision...I will try The Martian in HDR tonight with HarperVision SDR and report back.



OMG you crack me up! The last time I remember hearing "Harper Hush" was back in high school when I got yelled at all the time for talking in class! 

.........breaking out my woodworking tools now........ 

I just got word that my copy of Planet Earth II is awaiting pickup, so I should have mine sometime tonight. I can't wait to see that thing!


----------



## Valleyboy

I just want to send a shout out to Dave Harper. I've been reading this thread for almost six months and these past few weeks have had some of the most interesting and helpful posts thanks to Dave. You're a home theatre angel (it's like being a Charlie's Angel but with less costume changes). Thanks Dave.


----------



## Dave Harper

Valleyboy said:


> I just want to send a shout out to Dave Harper. I've been reading this thread for almost six months and these past few weeks have had some of the most interesting and helpful posts thanks to Dave. You're a home theatre angel (it's like being a Charlie's Angel but with less costume changes). Thanks Dave.


Wow, OK, thanks! I'm blushing.  Don't tell some people here that, they will blow a gasket! Some think I'm an idiot that doesn't help anyone here and just takes up valuable space.  It's good to know I can help and make a difference. I can't even begin to think I know it all, but what I know, I know, ya know? Plus I'm always thirsting for more and more knowledge. It would help if we would all just learn from each other rather than be condescending and feel threatened and not just share knowledge together. 

I think this thread was pretty amazing already before with posts from everyone like Oledurt, who helped lead me to this path. 

Carry on my wayward son!


----------



## jwhn

I am a new 5040UB owner. This is my first projector. Very happy with it so far. I am using it with an Elite 120" white screen in a mostly dark room, but so far the wife has not agreed to paint the ceiling and walls black. Receiver is a Denon AVR-S710W.

I've been going through the posts in this forum that have been very helpful. 

I do have a question related to HDMI cables. Unfortunately, I need a 60' cable for my installation and I saw some posts in this forum that suggest that using long cables can cause issues. Ideally, I would avoid the investment of a fiber optic HDMI.

This is the cable that I am using at the moment - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSL9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It seems to be working fine. The picture looks great when streaming Netflix UHD content. 

But how can I be sure that the long cable is not reducing the picture quality? Is there something in the menus that will verify that the cable length is not reducing the quality of the picture? I just want to make sure I am not missing something.

Thanks for any help you can provide.


----------



## sddp

jwhn said:


> I am a new 5040UB owner. This is my first projector. Very happy with it so far. I am using it with an Elite 120" white screen in a mostly dark room, but so far the wife has not agreed to paint the ceiling and walls black. Receiver is a Denon AVR-S710W.
> 
> I've been going through the posts in this forum that have been very helpful.
> 
> I do have a question related to HDMI cables. Unfortunately, I need a 60' cable for my installation and I saw some posts in this forum that suggest that using long cables can cause issues. Ideally, I would avoid the investment of a fiber optic HDMI.
> 
> This is the cable that I am using at the moment - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSL9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> It seems to be working fine. The picture looks great when streaming Netflix UHD content.
> 
> But how can I be sure that the long cable is not reducing the picture quality? Is there something in the menus that will verify that the cable length is not reducing the quality of the picture? I just want to make sure I am not missing something.
> 
> Thanks for any help you can provide.




I'd like to know too

That price more than doubles from 50' to 60'

Would be helpful if there was a sure way to tell if everything is getting across %100.
Although from my experience with digital signals, if something is not getting across then you get a blue screen.


----------



## Viche

jladner said:


> I had set up my theater on my own using a few of the calibration discs I have. It looked pretty good to me. When I put in your settings it was like seeing an HDTV for the first time.. I couldn't believe this projector could look so good. Now I need to get more 4k discs to enjoy.:grin:


Are you using the Harper Settings, the Panasonic Player with the HDR brightness slider adjusted, or both?



seplant said:


> We're not talking about stripping HDR. The HDR signal with WCG gets to the projector but you tell the projector to display in SDR mode. Then the Harpervision settings do their magic.


Are you using the Harper Settings, the Panasonic Player with the HDR brightness slider adjusted, or both?



Dave Harper said:


> Confirmed, I DO NOT normally use the UB900's HDR DR brightness slider, but it could be useful to use for different UHD discs that may be mastered at different nit levels. It's reported that as many as 40% of the UHD titles are mastered at 4000 nits (Thanks @*Javs* !). My settings are based on 1000 - 1200 nit levels using the R.Masciola patterns. I really haven't done this yet, but I would think that you should use the slider to taste on different discs and leave the projector settings as is. Maybe I will find a 4000 nit disc and test this.


Dave, I thought you had said earlier that the HDR brightness slider was sort of the icing on the cake on top of your custom settings. Are you instead saying that it's not always necessary, but rather defendant on the particular movie?

Also, does anyone know if this projector has an HDMI 2.1 or above connection? Does it support HDR+? I'm wondering how much better things would look with true frame by frame dynamic HDR support like the 2016 & 2017 Samsung TV's are going to have later this year.


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> I am a new 5040UB owner. This is my first projector. Very happy with it so far. I am using it with an Elite 120" white screen in a mostly dark room, but so far the wife has not agreed to paint the ceiling and walls black. Receiver is a Denon AVR-S710W.
> 
> I've been going through the posts in this forum that have been very helpful.
> 
> I do have a question related to HDMI cables. Unfortunately, I need a 60' cable for my installation and I saw some posts in this forum that suggest that using long cables can cause issues. Ideally, I would avoid the investment of a fiber optic HDMI.
> 
> This is the cable that I am using at the moment - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSL9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> It seems to be working fine. The picture looks great when streaming Netflix UHD content.
> 
> But how can I be sure that the long cable is not reducing the picture quality? Is there something in the menus that will verify that the cable length is not reducing the quality of the picture? I just want to make sure I am not missing something.
> 
> Thanks for any help you can provide.





sddp said:


> I'd like to know too
> 
> That price more than doubles from 50' to 60'
> 
> Would be helpful if there was a sure way to tell if everything is getting across %100.
> Although from my experience with digital signals, if something is not getting across then you get a blue screen.


If you are getting a decent picture without any clear and visible flaws or artifacts like digital snow, sparklies, macroblocking, etc., then that picture at that resolution and refresh rate is as good as it is supposed to be. What can happen though, is that a higher level signal like 60p 4:2:2 10/12 bit won't be able to be sent that distance and reaches the threshold of a correctable signal at the input of the projector, so then it defaults back to something lower that it can display, like rec709, 8 bit, etc. This very thing just happened to me when I started using a JVC RS600. When I tried Billy Lynn's Long Halftime Walk, which is 60p rather than 24p, that most all other movies are in UHD. This worked flawlessly on my old Sony 675, because its EDID reported ad accepts a lower signal than the JVC to begin with, so it never tried to send the full signal over my old "Best Deals Cable" (same as BetterCables) HDMI from years ago. When the RS600 was installed, it tried to send a higher bandwidth because it could accept that, but that showed the flaw in my old cable that I never noticed before. I had an old MonsterCable HDMI from about the same time period hooked up to my UHD HDR flat panel off the same equipment rack and AVR's secondary HDMI out, and that worked flawlessly at full bandwidth 60fps, so I swapped it to the RS600 and it worked on that properly as well. It was only a 12' cable, so that showed that it was length that was the issue.

Ok, with all that said, I would try the Billy Lynn UHD BR through that cable to your projector and see what you get, since that's the only title that has 60fps and will max out bandwidth. If everything that you want and need to play, plays fine using that old HDMI cable, then there's no reason to replace it until you do need it for something that doesn't work. Are you a gamer that may need high frame rates, etc.?


----------



## Dave Harper

Viche said:


> ..........Dave, I thought you had said earlier that the HDR brightness slider was sort of the icing on the cake on top of your custom settings. Are you instead saying that it's not always necessary, but rather defendant (sp: dependent ?) on the particular movie?
> 
> Also, does anyone know if this projector has an HDMI 2.1 or above connection? Does it support HDR+? I'm wondering how much better things would look with true frame by frame dynamic HDR support like the 2016 & 2017 Samsung TV's are going to have later this year.


I don't recall that, but I may have said that when referring to my custom gamma only settings that I used on Bright Cinema Mode (thanks to @Oledurt giving me his custom gamma!) before ever trying this HDR on SDR hack? yes I think that should be used sparingly whenusing my settings, and dependent on if you see anything you think is too dim or bright on certain discs.

This projector should be HDMI 2.0 with HDCP 2.2. I wouldn't think it supports HDR10+, even with a FW update, especially since it only has the more limited 10.2 Gbps HDMI chips.


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> If you are getting a decent picture without any clear and visible flaws or artifacts like digital snow, sparklies, macroblocking, etc., then that picture at that resolution and refresh rate is as good as it is supposed to be. What can happen though, is that a higher level signal like 60p 4:2:2 10/12 bit won't be able to be sent that distance and reaches the threshold of a correctable signal at the input of the projector, so then it defaults back to something lower that it can display, like rec709, 8 bit, etc. This very thing just happened to me when I started using a JVC RS600. When I tried Billy Lynn's Long Halftime Walk, which is 60p rather than 24p, that most all other movies are in UHD. This worked flawlessly on my old Sony 675, because its EDID reported ad accepts a lower signal than the JVC to begin with, so it never tried to send the full signal over my old "Best Deals Cable" (same as BetterCables) HDMI from years ago. When the RS600 was installed, it tried to send a higher bandwidth because it could accept that, but that showed the flaw in my old cable that I never noticed before. I had an old MonsterCable HDMI from about the same time period hooked up to my UHD HDR flat panel off the same equipment rack and AVR's secondary HDMI out, and that worked flawlessly at full bandwidth 60fps, so I swapped it to the RS600 and it worked on that properly as well. It was only a 12' cable, so that showed that it was length that was the issue.
> 
> Ok, with all that said, I would try the Billy Lynn UHD BR through that cable to your projector and see what you get, since that's the only title that has 60fps and will max out bandwidth. If everything that you want and need to play, plays fine using that old HDMI cable, then there's no reason to replace it until you do need it for something that doesn't work. Are you a gamer that may need high frame rates, etc.?


Thanks. Very helpful.

So when you had that experience of the projector defaulting back to something lower that it can display, did the menu show that it had done so? Or did the menu show that the projector was displaying at the higher level. Just trying to understand if I can always believe what the menu outputs show or if they may lie to me. ; )

The one thing that is giving me pause is that while the picture looks great, I don't see much difference between HD and UHD on Netflix content. They both look great, but I don't have a baseline. I'm not sure what 4K should look like coming out of the projector because I just got it and haven't had 4K before. So this makes me wonder if I am only getting standard HD out of the 4K content. But the menu output shows I am getting the 4K resolution. 

I will try Billy Lynn. I do have an XBox One and play sometimes, but I'm not a hardcore gamer.


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> Thanks. Very helpful.
> 
> So when you had that experience of the projector defaulting back to something lower that it can display, did the menu show that it had done so? Or did the menu show that the projector was displaying at the higher level. Just trying to understand if I can always believe what the menu outputs show or if they may lie to me. ; )
> 
> The one thing that is giving me pause is that while the picture looks great, I don't see much difference between HD and UHD on Netflix content. They both look great, but I don't have a baseline. I'm not sure what 4K should look like coming out of the projector because I just got it and haven't had 4K before. So this makes me wonder if I am only getting standard HD out of the 4K content. But the menu output shows I am getting the 4K resolution.
> 
> I will try Billy Lynn. I do have an XBox One and play sometimes, but I'm not a hardcore gamer.


Well, it didn't really "default back", but it actually on a few occasions blinked the picture on for a bit, then off again. The couple times I did have a full picture, It had sparklies and snow within it. What mostly happened was I got a full screen of nothing but digital white noise, which showed and told me that I was right on the edge of this cable being fully compatible at this length. If the cable was a little shorter at 25' or 30' it may have worked fully. Sorry if I didn't explain it right. I had to go into the Panasonic UB900's settings and limit it to 4:2:0 if I recall correctly to get it to play right. I may have done something with the HDFury Linker too.

I don't think the menu on the projector will lie to you. It will show what it's getting. One thing to be sure of though is that your Netflix source (what is it, your XB1S?) is actually transmitting true 4K HDR, or is it just sending upscaled 1080p as 4K because that's how you have it set in the display settings menu? Look at your streaming player's info screen while playing Netflix and see if it's receiving and sending full 4K HDR, or just 1080p or lower being upscaled to 4K in the streamer.

You may regret watching Billy Lynn...horrible movie with horrible soap opera motion that didn't look very cinematic, if you ask me!


----------



## deagle007

*Harpervision xbox 1s?*

Hi,

Im still confused on the harpervision settings. Is this something that would work on the xbox 1s when playing uhd discs or only for the oppo or pana with the dynamic settings option?

Thanks


----------



## Dave Harper

deagle007 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Im still confused on the harpervision settings. Is this something that would work on the xbox 1s when playing uhd discs or only for the oppo or pana with the dynamic settings option?
> 
> Thanks


It should work with any UHD HDR WCG source that can send that full signal to your 4K projector, even ones that don't officially support HDR like the Epson LS10000 and BenQ X12000 DLP. You just need a way to trick the source into thinking your display does accept HDR/WCG. You can just use the projector's settings on the Epson for this, by manually selecting SDR mode because it defaults to an HDR mode like Digital Cinema, but the good thing is, when in Digital Cinema mode, that manual SDR selection sticks the next time you do this.

The other option, if your projector can't manually be put into SDR mode when it receives an HDR signal, is to use something like the HDFury Linker which can spoof the EDID presented to your source, telling it is capable of many different modes, including full HDR WCG. There is a check box on the output side of the Linker under the HDR tab named "Disable HDR" that allows you to strip the HDR flag off the output so the projector has no idea its getting a signal it can't supposedly handle, like HDR. As I said, this is moot when using an HDR capable projector/display though, as long as you can manually select SDR when you do this. The reason you'd want to try this on a projector that can already do HDR, is because it allows a much brighter "SDR Like" image, but with the HDR characteristics, similar to doing SDR with bt2020 WCG by stripping HDR with an HDFury device, only better. It also may be better than the HDR modes as well. Only testing and trying it out in your environment with your gear can show you what works best for you. @Oledurt and my custom gammas on Bright Cinema are pretty awesome as well, although you lose the WCG bt2020 filter in that mode.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> No, all that material is mastered in 16:9. 2.35:1 video is just inside that 16:9 frame, with black bars top and bottom. What you're doing is zooming into that 2.35:1 part to basically fill your 2.35:1 screen, hence as was said the black bars are pushed off the top and bottom of the screen when zooming in.
> 
> For these movies with both ARs, the 16:9 video, when it appears, expands out to fill those top and bottom letterbox bars that are there and zoomed off the screen, thus spilling that video off of the top and bottom of your screen too. By using electronic masking adjusted right to the edges of the top and bottom of your 2.35:1 image, when those letterbox bars turn to actual video, you won't see them because they're now blanked out.
> 
> Does that clear it up?


 I am new to this so bear with me lol! So this has to be what I was experiencing. I have 2:35 saved to memory on remote, I was watching "tron legacy" and had it set to 2:35 and when a 16:9 scene would pop up it would go off the screen top and bottom, your daying to just mask this? 

I have black out curtains for sides of screen for 16:9 video gaming.

Dumb question, I have GIK acoustics panels in black, can I use this for masking? The top of screen only has 4.5" total of space, 2.5" of frame and 2"'of wall. All black walls ect


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> Well, it didn't really "default back", but it actually on a few occasions blinked the picture on for a bit, then off again. The couple times I did have a full picture, It had sparklies and snow within it. What mostly happened was I got a full screen of nothing but digital white noise, which showed and told me that I was right on the edge of this cable being fully compatible at this length. If the cable was a little shorter at 25' or 30' it may have worked fully. Sorry if I didn't explain it right. I had to go into the Panasonic UB900's settings and limit it to 4:2:0 if I recall correctly to get it to play right. I may have done something with the HDFury Linker too.
> 
> I don't think the menu on the projector will lie to you. It will show what it's getting. One thing to be sure of though is that your Netflix source (what is it, your XB1S?) is actually transmitting true 4K HDR, or is it just sending upscaled 1080p as 4K because that's how you have it set in the display settings menu? Look at your streaming player's info screen while playing Netflix and see if it's receiving and sending full 4K HDR, or just 1080p or lower being upscaled to 4K in the streamer.
> 
> You may regret watching Billy Lynn...horrible movie with horrible soap opera motion that didn't look very cinematic, if you ask me!


Got it. I'm using a 2nd gen FireTV hardwired. My understanding is that it does support 4K but at lower fps based on HTML 1.4 (but I could be wrong). I forced the FireTV to display in 1080p 60Hz and viewed content and then viewed the same content in the Auto setting (up to 4K). They look essentially the same to my eye. The Epson info menu does show different resolutions for these two settings but I'm still not 100% sure that the Fire TV is not upscaling. I don't see a way to verify that in the Fire TV menus. 

But it does appear that the cable is doing its job (my original question), but I may need to use a different streaming device. I'll get the Billy Lynn disk and keep testing...


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> It should work with any UHD HDR WCG source that can send that full signal to your 4K projector, even ones that don't officially support HDR like the Epson LS10000 and BenQ X12000 DLP. You just need a way to trick the source into thinking your display does accept HDR/WCG. You can just use the projector's settings on the Epson for this, by manually selecting SDR mode because it defaults to an HDR mode like Digital Cinema, but the good thing is, when in Digital Cinema mode, that manual SDR selection sticks the next time you do this.
> 
> 
> 
> The other option, if your projector can't manually be put into SDR mode when it receives an HDR signal, is to use something like the HDFury Linker which can spoof the EDID presented to your source, telling it is capable of many different modes, including full HDR WCG. There is a check box on the output side of the Linker under the HDR tab named "Disable HDR" that allows you to strip the HDR flag off the output so the projector has no idea its getting a signal it can't supposedly handle, like HDR. As I said, this is moot when using an HDR capable projector/display though, as long as you can manually select SDR when you do this. The reason you'd want to try this on a projector that can already do HDR, is because it allows a much brighter "SDR Like" image, but with the HDR characteristics, similar to doing SDR with bt2020 WCG by stripping HDR with an HDFury device, only better. It also may be better than the HDR modes as well. Only testing and trying it out in your environment with your gear can show you what works best for you. @Oledurt and my custom gammas on Bright Cinema are pretty awesome as well, although you lose the WCG bt2020 filter in that mode.




Dave, curious if you ever updated your Bright Cinema custom gamma curve settings? I noticed a few posts back your numbers didnt correlate with the picture and I don't recall seeing any update (unless I just missed it)? Would you mind sharing or telling me which post they're in? I'd like to compare to your HDR-to-SDR conversion settings. Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> Wow, OK, thanks! I'm blushing.  Don't tell some people here that, they will blow a gasket! Some think I'm an idiot that doesn't help anyone here and just takes up valuable space.  It's good to know I can help and make a difference. I can't even begin to think I know it all, but what I know, I know, ya know? Plus I'm always thirsting for more and more knowledge. It would help if we would all just learn from each other rather than be condescending and feel threatened and not just share knowledge together.
> 
> I think this thread was pretty amazing already before with posts from everyone like Oledurt, who helped lead me to this path.
> 
> Carry on my wayward son!


Dave, can you provide any insight into my question on post 7429? How do you go about setting white clipping using UHD patterns on a Sony disc, like Underworld UHD? I set the contrast so that the 1100 bar was not visible and the 1000 bar was and ended up with a contrast of 27 on Digital Cinema. That turns out too dim for regular viewing without the Panasonic brightness adjustment. But, did I set that clipping correctly? I may be buying a Panny player here soon because I still can't use the R.Masciola patterns on the Phillips player but I want to make sure that I'm understanding how to properly set the clipping to 1000 nits using the included patterns.


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> NP Dave I am glad to help out. I am still working on your harpervision settings too dialing them in. HDR IS the future no doubt about that can you imagine what it will look like in 3 years...holy crap what a great time to be in this hobby! I love it
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Oledurt - would you mind posting your HDR Bright Cinema settings? I'd like to compare to your Digital Cinema settings as well as Dave's SDR settings. I tried searching but couldn't find them. Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I am new to this so bear with me lol! So this has to be what I was experiencing. I have 2:35 saved to memory on remote, I was watching "tron legacy" and had it set to 2:35 and when a 16:9 scene would pop up it would go off the screen top and bottom, your saying to just mask this?
> 
> I have black out curtains for sides of screen for 16:9 video gaming.
> 
> Dumb question, I have GIK acoustics panels in black, can I use this for masking? The top of screen only has 4.5" total of space, 2.5" of frame and 2"'of wall. All black walls ect


Yes, that is correct. Mask the top and bottom part that is spilling over.

You can use those panels for masking, but it isn't ideal compared to doing it in the projector because there it will actually mute and black out that area of the video as if it isn't even there, so it never even leaves the lens and it isn't projected onto your screen, wall, or anywhere. Your physical masks will crush it down some, but if you walk up to them you can still see the projected image really dim on the black surface of the masking panels.



jwhn said:


> Got it. I'm using a 2nd gen FireTV hardwired. My understanding is that it does support 4K but at lower fps based on HTML 1.4 (but I could be wrong). I forced the FireTV to display in 1080p 60Hz and viewed content and then viewed the same content in the Auto setting (up to 4K). They look essentially the same to my eye. The Epson info menu does show different resolutions for these two settings but I'm still not 100% sure that the Fire TV is not upscaling. I don't see a way to verify that in the Fire TV menus.
> 
> But it does appear that the cable is doing its job (my original question), but I may need to use a different streaming device. I'll get the Billy Lynn disk and keep testing...


I believe the FTV 2nd Gen box uses HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2 because I was able to watch 4K 24p HDR with it on my Sony 675.

They look the same because you are still upconverting that 1080p signal to 4K. It is just in different places, the source (in this case your FTV), or the projector. If you see 1080p as your input signal in the Epson menu, that's what you're getting. I think you may be confusing a device's output setting with what streaming resolution you're getting from the provider, in this case Netflix. That is all dependent on the quality of your internet/ethernet links. Netflix will dynamically change its resolution quality (480p, 720p, 1080p, 4K/2160p) being sent based on your internet speed/bandwidth. It could very well be that your quality isn't high enough internet wise, so it isn't able to stream 4K to you and it goes to it's maximum that it can do, 1080p. That is why I said to check the info screen in the Netflix app to see what being sent. Usually a push on the UP or DOWN part of the circle button shows this. You can also press and hold the DOWN part and CENTER button of the circle on the FTV remote for 5 seconds, then hit the button with the 3 lines (Like this, only horizontal: lll ) and it will bring up a Developer's hidden menu where you can see what the streaming bandwidth is both for the entire box and the app you're in. There is a chart somewhere that tells you which resolution you can get for your bandwidth speed.




spirithockey79 said:


> Dave, curious if you ever updated your Bright Cinema custom gamma curve settings? I noticed a few posts back your numbers didn't correlate with the picture and I don't recall seeing any update (unless I just missed it)? Would you mind sharing or telling me which post they're in? I'd like to compare to your HDR-to-SDR conversion settings. Thanks!


I'm sorry. I think these are the numbers, but I haven't messed with that in awhile. My time has been consumed with HDR on SDR. I will have to revisit that too! Custom Gamma in Bright Cinema: 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,28,0 I think the only other one I did was with the last 3 maxed at 32,which I have mentioned before, but I don't remember the post link or picture I used. It should one of those two sets of numbers.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, that is correct. Mask the top and bottom part that is spilling over.
> 
> You can use those panels for masking, but it isn't ideal compared to doing it in the projector because there it will actually mute and black out that area of the video as if it isn't even there, so it never even leaves the lens and it isn't projected onto your screen, wall, or anywhere. Your physical masks will crush it down some, but if you walk up to them you can still see the projected image really dim on the black surface of the masking panels.


I had no idea the projector could do this automatically? 

Let me get this straight, I can zoom screen in on a.2:35 scene so it fits entire screen, when it goes to 16:9 it will bleed over top and Bottom but there is a setting to prevent this? 

I would love that!


----------



## Dave Harper

c.kingsley said:


> I was playing around last night with the Sony patterns on Underworld UHD to set contrast using Digital Cinema mode. I am not certain I'm performing the white clipping correctly, but I also ended up at 27 for contrast. At 27, the 1000 nit bar is visible and the 1100 is not. At 28 contrast, the 1100 bar becomes visible. As you noticed, this yields a picture that most would consider too dim. I am considering the Panasonic UHD player for its brightness adjustment but did I set the white clipping correctly?





c.kingsley said:


> Dave, can you provide any insight into my question on post 7429? How do you go about setting white clipping using UHD patterns on a Sony disc, like Underworld UHD? I set the contrast so that the 1100 bar was not visible and the 1000 bar was and ended up with a contrast of 27 on Digital Cinema. That turns out too dim for regular viewing without the Panasonic brightness adjustment. But, did I set that clipping correctly? I may be buying a Panny player here soon because I still can't use the R.Masciola patterns on the Phillips player but I want to make sure that I'm understanding how to properly set the clipping to 1000 nits using the included patterns.


It seems strange that in the first quoted post above you say that when you raise contrast, it raises the clipping point. Usually it's the opposite, as you raise contrast the clipping point lowers, so that if you send a higher mastered disc's signal, like a 4000 nit title, anything above that point you set will be clipped and have white crush. Do you have contrast set high on the Philips player? 27 or 28 seems awful low to me too.

I would make sure all settings are in their default mode, on both player and projector, and maybe the AVR too if that has settings for video processing (most do). Then I would select Bright Cinema mode. Then select custom gamma mode and input those gamma numbers from left to right. Feel free to tweak as needed too, this is just a baseline. Then display the pattern for white clipping levels and increase contrast on the 5040 to where you want it. I use between 1000 and 1200 nits as a baseline. Are you using Normal or Expanded Dynamic Range mode, as that will affect clipping points as well?

I haven't used the Sony disc patterns in a long time since I have the R. Masciola pattern files. If you can't play them on the Philips, do you have something like a FireTV Box to try playing them on? I used that as well. Also, I use the .MP4 version in my UB900, is that what you tried on your Philips?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I had no idea the projector could do this automatically?
> 
> Let me get this straight, I can zoom screen in on a.2:35 scene so it fits entire screen, when it goes to 16:9 it will bleed over top and Bottom but there is a setting to prevent this?
> 
> I would love that!


It isn't automatic, you have to do it manually and unfortunately I also don't think it's saved in the Memory when you save the settings, but it is called "BLANKING" and you can read about it and how to do it in the manual here . It is in the Signal menu and the descriptions on that start on page 105 of the linked manual.

Just about every projector I have worked with has this feature, even from way back in the CRT days.


----------



## bommai

Good news for me. I have my eyes on the Sony x800 because it can play sacd as well. However I did not want to blind buy from Best Buy because I don't really want to return to Best Buy if it does not work out for me with my old cables. I was in Sam's club today and they had the Samsung uhd player for $230. I bought it and low and behold it is successfully upscaling a normal bluray to 4K sdr on the Epson. No sparkles or data loss. This is a 25' monoprice hdmi cable going through my ceiling and wall from 7.5 years ago. Wow! I think I am going to buy the Sony one now or may be I will keep my old Sony bdp-s6200 for the sacds. Need to decide. But Sony gives free movies too. I have ordered planet earth 2 from Amazon. It will get here on Sunday. My replacement projector from Epson is coming on Monday. I also found the chief4500 mount on eBay again. It is coming on Thursday. Expenses!!! At least I don't have to run hdmi cables. Hopefully these existing cables will work for hdr as well.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nutdotnet

Dave, im sorry for the dumb question but -

Is the purpose of your settings to give an HDR/WCG appearance on a 4K SDR display?

You need a device that outputs UHD and HDR/WCG, and your projector has to accept 4K? 

I though the 5040 accepted HDR? Or are there issues with how it accepts it and where from?

What if you have a 4k flat-panel display thats SDR? Or even just a 1080p projector?

Sorry for all the questions. I have a 4K SDR TV and a 5020 projector. Id love to be able to get some "faux-HDR" as opposed to replacing what i have.


----------



## Dave Harper

bommai said:


> Good news for me. I have my eyes on the Sony x800 because it can play sacd as well. However I did not want to blind buy from Best Buy because I don't really want to return to Best Buy if it does not work out for me with my old cables. I was in Sam's club today and they had the Samsung uhd player for $230. I bought it and low and behold it is successfully upscaling a normal bluray to 4K sdr on the Epson. No sparkles or data loss. This is a 25' monoprice hdmi cable going through my ceiling and wall from 7.5 years ago. Wow! I think I am going to buy the Sony one now or may be I will keep my old Sony bdp-s6200 for the sacds. Need to decide. But Sony gives free movies too. I have ordered planet earth 2 from Amazon. It will get here on Sunday. My replacement projector from Epson is coming on Monday. I also found the chief4500 mount on eBay again. It is coming on Thursday. Expenses!!! At least I don't have to run hdmi cables. Hopefully these existing cables will work for hdr as well.


Why do you want to run it the way your picture shows though? That is showing that it is not HDR, and is in SDR rec709 8 bit mode. Hardly what it should be for true 4K HDR with WCG rec2020 4:2:2 10 bit for example. You need to try that mode sent from your Samsung before assuming that it will work, even with a new Sony player.






Nutdotnet said:


> Dave, im sorry for the dumb question but -
> 
> 1. Is the purpose of your settings to give an HDR/WCG appearance on a 4K SDR display?
> 
> 2. You need a device that outputs UHD and HDR/WCG, and your projector has to accept 4K?
> 
> 3. I though the 5040 accepted HDR? Or are there issues with how it accepts it and where from?
> 
> 4. What if you have a 4k flat-panel display thats SDR? 5. Or even just a 1080p projector?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions. I have a 4K SDR TV and a 5020 projector. Id love to be able to get some "faux-HDR" as opposed to replacing what i have.


There's never a dumb question, except the ones that aren't asked, regardless of what others on this forum think. 

I have numbered your questions in red above, answers below:

1. Yes that was the initial intent, but then it was noticed that it can produce superior images than even the stock HDR settings on HDR capable displays, even with things like custom gamma curves, brighter mode selections, HDR stripping to SDR bt2020, etc.

2. Yes, and it also has to be able to force SDR mode while receiving an HDR signal, if not use something like an HDF Linker to fool it.

3. Yes, it does accept HDR. I used it as a test bed since I was able to switch it into SDR mode manually in the 5040. My results shocked me when I saw it appeared to even be better than the HDR modes. (See answer to #1) 

4. Hmmmm, that's an interesting thought! I think it should work on a flat panel too, with the same caveats that it has to be able to be put into SDR mode, either through its menus or a Linker.

5. I LOVE this thought! Maybe if the UHD bluray player is set to 1080p output it can send 1080p24 HDR WCG on it's output and then you can apply the same theory to that signal and get a pseudo-HDR picture on those projectors? I say go for it and try it out! I would say to have any real benefit you'd want the 1080p display to be able to show higher than rec709 colors, even if not full P3, like many do now that are listed as 4K HDR like the Sony SXRDs. On those it may just be as good of quality to just use the player to downconvert your UHD discs internally and maybe use an HDFury to strip HDR to get 1080p SDR rec2020. idk, never tried that.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> It isn't automatic, you have to do it manually and unfortunately I also don't think it's saved in the Memory when you save the settings, but it is called "BLANKING" and you can read about it and how to do it in the manual here . It is in the Signal menu and the descriptions on that start on page 105 of the linked manual.
> 
> Just about every projector I have worked with has this feature, even from way back in the CRT days.


 I have used blanking feature to line up screen. so I would have to use "blanking" everytime it goes to a 16:9 scene from 2:35 to a 16:9 scene ect, I will Just leave it st 16:9 for movies in multiple formats, would be to distracting. Save the 2:35 screen for movies shot in one format only.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> There's never a dumb question, except the ones that aren't asked, regardless of what others on this forum think


I really respect this post, really appreciate the help and time you have dedicated to this thread.


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, that is correct. Mask the top and bottom part that is spilling over.
> 
> You can use those panels for masking, but it isn't ideal compared to doing it in the projector because there it will actually mute and black out that area of the video as if it isn't even there, so it never even leaves the lens and it isn't projected onto your screen, wall, or anywhere. Your physical masks will crush it down some, but if you walk up to them you can still see the projected image really dim on the black surface of the masking panels.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the FTV 2nd Gen box uses HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2 because I was able to watch 4K 24p HDR with it on my Sony 675.
> 
> They look the same because you are still upconverting that 1080p signal to 4K. It is just in different places, the source (in this case your FTV), or the projector. If you see 1080p as your input signal in the Epson menu, that's what you're getting. I think you may be confusing a device's output setting with what streaming resolution you're getting from the provider, in this case Netflix. That is all dependent on the quality of your internet/ethernet links. Netflix will dynamically change its resolution quality (480p, 720p, 1080p, 4K/2160p) being sent based on your internet speed/bandwidth. It could very well be that your quality isn't high enough internet wise, so it isn't able to stream 4K to you and it goes to it's maximum that it can do, 1080p. That is why I said to check the info screen in the Netflix app to see what being sent. Usually a push on the UP or DOWN part of the circle button shows this. You can also press and hold the DOWN part and CENTER button of the circle on the FTV remote for 5 seconds, then hit the button with the 3 lines (Like this, only horizontal: lll ) and it will bring up a Developer's hidden menu where you can see what the streaming bandwidth is both for the entire box and the app you're in. There is a chart somewhere that tells you which resolution you can get for your bandwidth speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry. I think these are the numbers, but I haven't messed with that in awhile. My time has been consumed with HDR on SDR. I will have to revisit that too! Custom Gamma in Bright Cinema: 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,28,0 I think the only other one I did was with the last 3 maxed at 32,which I have mentioned before, but I don't remember the post link or picture I used. It should one of those two sets of numbers.


SUPER Helpful, Dave. I turned on System X-Ray on the FireTV and played the Costa Rica 4K 60 fps video through the YouTube app and it displayed 2160p 30. The Epson also showed a 4K resolution. So just to make 100% sure - this shows that the FireTV is sending a 4K signal and that the 60' cable is not an issue. Correct?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I have used blanking feature to line up screen. so I would have to use "blanking" everytime it goes to a 16:9 scene from 2:35 to a 16:9 scene ect, I will Just leave it st 16:9 for movies in multiple formats, would be to distracting. Save the 2:35 screen for movies shot in one format only.


I still don't think you're getting the concept. No, once you set blanking to the top and bottom edges of your screen when you start the movie, the blanking will stay EXACTLY where you set it the whole entire time, so when one of the scenes in the movies happens to change AR from 2.35:1 to 16:9, you won't even be able to tell it happened because everything above and below the screen that was once black letterbox bars, and is now actual video due to the AR change, will be blanked out and you will never even see it!



robc1976 said:


> I really respect this post, really appreciate the help and time you have dedicated to this thread.


Thanks.


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> SUPER Helpful, Dave. I turned on System X-Ray on the FireTV and played the Costa Rica 4K 60 fps video through the YouTube app and it displayed 2160p 30. The Epson also showed a 4K resolution. So just to make 100% sure - this shows that the FireTV is sending a 4K signal and that the 60' cable is not an issue. Correct?


Yes, but take note that is at 2160 30Fps. If you try to send 60Fps at 2160 I bet your old cable will choke on it, as it would have too much bandwidth for those old cables.


----------



## bommai

Dave Harper said:


> Why do you want to run it the way your picture shows though? That is showing that it is not HDR, and is in SDR rec709 8 bit mode. Hardly what it should be for true 4K HDR with WCG rec2020 4:2:2 10 bit for example. You need to try that mode sent from your Samsung before assuming that it will work, even with a new Sony player.



I was playing a standard bluray planet earth disc. Samsung was simply upscaling and sending it to the projector I thought. I have everything set to auto in the projector and the player. I just bought the player. On Sunday I will have the planet earth2 4K discs from Amazon and I will look for the different color space etc. I haven't really played with any setting in the projector yet. I will try Netflix 4K on Samsung soon. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, but take note that is at 2160 30Fps. If you try to send 60Fps at 2160 I bet your old cable will choke on it, as it would have too much bandwidth for those old cables.


Right I was thinking about that. What cable would you recommend in that case? It's going in the wall so not easy to swap out later.

And by the way, it's a new cable that has a built in signal booster. Not sure if you looked at the specs - link included again in case you have time to take a quick look. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSL9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## c.kingsley

Dave Harper said:


> It seems strange that in the first quoted post above you say that when you raise contrast, it raises the clipping point. Usually it's the opposite, as you raise contrast the clipping point lowers, so that if you send a higher mastered disc's signal, like a 4000 nit title, anything above that point you set will be clipped and have white crush. Do you have contrast set high on the Philips player? 27 or 28 seems awful low to me too.
> 
> I would make sure all settings are in their default mode, on both player and projector, and maybe the AVR too if that has settings for video processing (most do). Then I would select Bright Cinema mode. Then select custom gamma mode and input those gamma numbers from left to right. Feel free to tweak as needed too, this is just a baseline. Then display the pattern for white clipping levels and increase contrast on the 5040 to where you want it. I use between 1000 and 1200 nits as a baseline. Are you using Normal or Expanded Dynamic Range mode, as that will affect clipping points as well?
> 
> I haven't used the Sony disc patterns in a long time since I have the R. Masciola pattern files. If you can't play them on the Philips, do you have something like a FireTV Box to try playing them on? I used that as well. Also, I use the .MP4 version in my UB900, is that what you tried on your Philips?


I've tried both the .TS and the .MP4 on the Phillips, it just won't play either. I could have it backwards in my post, but when I raise the contrast on the Underworld patterns, it removes more of the visible bars. To see the higher numbered contrast bars, I have to lower the contrast. At 27 I can see 1000 nits clearly. It is too dim at that level but I just want to ensure that I'm interpreting the clipping point correctly, if you can see 1000 and not 1100 that is clipping at 1000? There are no settings for video brightness on the Philips player.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I still don't think you're getting the concept. No, once you set blanking to the top and bottom edges of your screen when you start the movie, the blanking will stay EXACTLY where you set it the whole entire time, so when one of the scenes in the movies happens to change AR from 2.35:1 to 16:9, you won't even be able to tell it happened because everything above and below the screen that was once black letterbox bars, and is now actual video due to the AR change, will be blanked out and you will never even see it!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


I didn't know it stayed like that the entire movie lol! 

I have 2:35 set in screen 2 on remote so when movie starts I just use blanking on top and bottom edges to be sure its to the edge of screen, then when it switches to 16:9 it cuts off the material that is usually above and below screen? 

Do have that correct?


----------



## spirithockey79

robc1976 said:


> I didn't know it stayed like that the entire movie lol!
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2:35 set in screen 2 on remote so when movie starts I just use blanking on top and bottom edges to be sure its to the edge of screen, then when it switches to 16:9 it cuts off the material that is usually above and below screen?
> 
> 
> 
> Do have that correct?




Yes. For 16x9 movies (generally 1.78 or 1.85) you will want to have a lens memory that fits the top and bottom of the movie to your screen. You'll have black bars on the right and left sides, so you just want to mask those with panels, curtains, etc. For 2.35, 2.39, 2.40 ,movies you'll have a lens memory that zooms the picture to fit your entire screen. If you watch a movie that changes aspect ratio like The Dark Knight or Star Trek Into Darkness it will be distracting cause when those 16x9 IMAX scenes come up you'll see it still over the top and bottom of your screen onto the wall. The blanking feature allows you to essentially make that spillover pitch black, so while you miss the IMAX size picture, there's no distraction of the switching.

You'll find other movies with aspect ratios smaller than 1.78, in which case you'll have wider bars on the sides, or movies with larger aspect ratio than 2.40 like Ben Hur or The Hateful Eight where you'll have some black bars on the top and bottom. Unless you create a customized masking system that you can use with various aspect ratios you pretty much have to live with it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

spirithockey79 said:


> Yes. For 16x9 movies (generally 1.78 or 1.85) you will want to have a lens memory that fits the top and bottom of the movie to your screen. You'll have black bars on the right and left sides, so you just want to mask those with panels, curtains, etc. For 2.35, 2.39, 2.40 ,movies you'll have a lens memory that zooms the picture to fit your entire screen. If you watch a movie that changes aspect ratio like The Dark Knight or Star Trek Into Darkness it will be distracting cause when those 16x9 IMAX scenes come up you'll see it still over the top and bottom of your screen onto the wall. The blanking feature allows you to essentially make that spillover pitch black, so while you miss the IMAX size picture, there's no distraction of the switching.
> 
> You'll find other movies with aspect ratios smaller than 1.78, in which case you'll have wider bars on the sides, or movies with larger aspect ratio than 2.40 like Ben Hur or The Hateful Eight where you'll have some black bars on the top and bottom. Unless you create a customized masking system that you can use with various aspect ratios you pretty much have to live with it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Okay that makes sense, I have lens memory #1 on remote set to 16:9 for Xbox ect. 

One question, the blanking only stays on that movie? Once projector turns off it is not there and not permanent correct?


----------



## bommai

I upgraded my Netflix account and tried Medici. It shows 4K but no hdr and uses 709 colorspace. I then tried Amazon video show Bosch. It shows up in HDR and shows BT.2020 at 24hz. Yay. Still no problems with my cable. Looks like the Sony does not do hdr on Amazon but my Samsung can. Now I guess I will have to go through Harper vision settings. Hdr looks really washed out right now with default settings.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

I must admit I think That I must have this nits/clipping thing very confused, using the HDR test patterns on USB the more I raise contrast the less white bars I see ( that part figures) but I thought that 1000 nits would be brighter highlights than say 400 nits ? And that's why HDR mastered at 4000 nits needs a really bright display to cope whereas a movie at 1000 nits HDR would be less bright highlights ..

Same as normal contrast patterns switching on superwhite you can have a higher contrast setting than with superwhite off as it clips badly when off.


----------



## webmst

Another way of dealing with 16:9 v 2.35 movies:
Use 2 screens (cheap way - wall mount 2:35 + drop down 16:9 in front).
I know this sounds a bit nuts (to some at first) but there is real merit here.
A 2.35 is wide and not high (of course) and so if you get a 2.35 below, say 120" then watching 16:9 material not stretched can be quite underwhelming.
As in the 16:9 picture fills only a portion of the centre of a 2.35 screen with large bars on each side.
There are some blanking systems out there for lots of money or......
Get a electric drop down 16:9 screen in front of the 2:35 screen.
If you are watching a mix aspect film (and you don't want to miss any material) - show it on the 16:9 and then the screen will fill for the 16:9 segments and return to black bars top and bottom for the 2:35 material.
OR just use the 5040 blanking on the 2:35 screen and don't worry about missing the top and bottom of the 16:9 material.


----------



## AMartin56

My apologies if asking this here like this seems lazy but I'm hoping a few owners will help a brother out.

I'm about ready to dump my JVC 420. I can't stand the native motion on it and the frame interpolation is buggy with a lot of banding artifacts. 

My options are a bit limited in this price range but I'm considering a 5040 even though it won't do frame interpolation at all with 4k. 

My only experience with Epson motion smoothing was on a 2040. The lowest setting had too much SOE for me. 

Would anybody be willing to comment on how aggressive the smoothing on the 5040 is? I'm just looking for something to smooth out the judder on 1080/24p Blu-rays. If anyone upgraded from a Sony 40ES I really liked Motionflow on Low.


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> Right I was thinking about that. What cable would you recommend in that case? It's going in the wall so not easy to swap out later.
> 
> 
> 
> And by the way, it's a new cable that has a built in signal booster. Not sure if you looked at the specs - link included again in case you have time to take a quick look.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSL9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I always recommend Monoprice for cables, although I haven't had to buy any for awhile. I may need to soon if I keep the full 18Gbps RS600 though. 

Sorry, I must have confused you with another person I was posting with that mentioned they had an older cable in wall they wondered if they needed to replace. I think that was bommai below actually......



bommai said:


> I upgraded my Netflix account and tried Medici. It shows 4K but no hdr and uses 709 colorspace. I then tried Amazon video show Bosch. It shows up in HDR and shows BT.2020 at 24hz. Yay. Still no problems with my cable. Looks like the Sony does not do hdr on Amazon but my Samsung can. Now I guess I will have to go through Harper vision settings. Hdr looks really washed out right now with default settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Netflix only sends 4K60p, so that's why you weren't getting HDR or rec2020. Amazon sends it in 24p, which lowers the bandwidth enough to allow for HDR and rec2020. This seems like it's due to the 10.2 Gbps HDMI chip in the 5040 and not so much as your cable. 

Were you in SDR mode on the projector? That's probably why it was washed out. Once you apply my settings that fixes that. 





c.kingsley said:


> I've tried both the .TS and the .MP4 on the Phillips, it just won't play either. I could have it backwards in my post, but when I raise the contrast on the Underworld patterns, it removes more of the visible bars. To see the higher numbered contrast bars, I have to lower the contrast. At 27 I can see 1000 nits clearly. It is too dim at that level but I just want to ensure that I'm interpreting the clipping point correctly, if you can see 1000 and not 1100 that is clipping at 1000? There are no settings for video brightness on the Philips player.



Yes, you're interpreting it correctly, but I still don't know why your contrast has to go all the way down to 27 to get to that point. I can get that level in the 50 range when in Normal Dynamic Range mode. There should be contrast and brightness settings in the Philips. The menu and GUI are pretty much the same as the Panasonic if I recall when I had one briefly. When playing a disc, hit the "video setting" (or something similar, this is on the panny) button on the remote. It should bring up a menu that has many different adjustments. One is something like Luminance and Color. 

The dimness is a picture level thing, trying to fit that high of a Dynamic Range image into the smaller Dynamic Range of these current projectors. Think of it as more crap to squeeze down into the same space that SDR fits into. Since there's highs so much higher, this changes the average picture level of most of the image. The normal parts of the image are almost the same as SDR, but HDR allows for more real life looking peaks, the specular highlights. It also allows more picture info in the dark areas for better shadow details. This is where the custom gamma and my HDR to SDR settings come into play, to raise the mids and the APL to make the whole image appear brighter, but maintaining the black level and peak white specular highlight level at each end. In simple terms, think of it like a Slinky on a table and you grab the top part and pull it up, with most of the spring more bunched up in the lower parts. That lower bunched up part is the main picture info in HDR with the top stretched out part being the higher whites and specular highlights. What custom gammas and my settings do is pull up those lower sections of the springs (APL) and evens them out across the whole range, without changing the bottom and top points. Does that make sense? The trick is, where to place each section of the spring!


----------



## seplant

AMartin56 said:


> My apologies if asking this here like this seems lazy but I'm hoping a few owners will help a brother out.
> 
> I'm about ready to dump my JVC 420. I can't stand the native motion on it and the frame interpolation is buggy with a lot of banding artifacts.
> 
> My options are a bit limited in this price range but I'm considering a 5040 even though it won't do frame interpolation at all with 4k.
> 
> My only experience with Epson motion smoothing was on a 2040. The lowest setting had too much SOE for me.
> 
> Would anybody be willing to comment on how aggressive the smoothing on the 5040 is? I'm just looking for something to smooth out the judder on 1080/24p Blu-rays. If anyone upgraded from a Sony 40ES I really liked Motionflow on Low.


The 5040/6040 has issues with motion and frame interpolation as well. I'm a fan of frame interpolation when it is done well, and I keep it turned off on my 6040. It's okay on scenes where there is little motion on the screen, like when people are standing around talking and they move a bit here and there, but whenever there is a lot of action, it gets juddery and jagged. I'm going to see a JVC RS400 in action today, so maybe I will be able to compare the motion with my Epson. I'll report back if I think it is better or worse.


----------



## AMartin56

seplant said:


> The 5040/6040 has issues with motion and frame interpolation as well. I'm a fan of frame interpolation when it is done well, and I keep it turned off on my 6040. It's okay on scenes where there is little motion on the screen, like when people are standing around talking and they move a bit here and there, but whenever there is a lot of action, it gets juddery and jagged. I'm going to see a JVC RS400 in action today, so maybe I will be able to compare the motion with my Epson. I'll report back if I think it is better or worse.


Thank you. That's disappointing to hear. I hate the motion on my current JVC 420. I'll be curious if you feel differently. 

Andrew

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

When I watched Bosch on Amazon, with all default settings on the projector, it must have changed it to HDR since that was set to Auto right. Bosch looked washed out. Then I went to another show The Holy Trinity and started applying the Harper Vision settings. Forced sdr. Changed color contrast gamma etc. kept super white off is that correct. So the incoming signal from Samsung is rec2020 hdr 24hz 4K and the projector is showing that in sdr with all the settings that I had applied. Looked great. High fan setting is loud though. Any way to run this with med fan.









Weird thing is samsung sends 60hz non hdr 4K to projector. I cannot use Harper vision for that right. Since it is not hdr. And Amazon. I have to to hdr shows. The Amazon menus look awful with Harper vision. So I saved a regular settings and harpervision settings into memory. 

In the Sony player forum, they are saying that hdr works with Netflix but not with Amazon. Weird. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> I always recommend Monoprice for cables, although I haven't had to buy any for awhile. I may need to soon if I keep the full 18Gbps RS600 though.
> 
> Sorry, I must have confused you with another person I was posting with that mentioned they had an older cable in wall they wondered if they needed to replace. I think that was bommai below actually......


No problem at all. You are fielding quite a lot of questions! 

I tried streaming the YouTube 4K 60fps content through my XBox One S and the Epson info menu shows the signal as 4K and 60 Hz and it looks stunning. So it seems the 60' cable will do 60 fps? Must be the signal booster. (I usually go with Monoprice, but they didn't have a 60' in white). I guess I will go with this one and put it in the wall - hopefully I won't have issues down the road. 

And new guy question - the Epson displays the refresh rate and not the fps. So how do I conclude I am viewing 60 Fps?


----------



## Azekecse

sddp said:


> I'd like to know too
> 
> That price more than doubles from 50' to 60'
> 
> Would be helpful if there was a sure way to tell if everything is getting across %100.
> Although from my experience with digital signals, if something is not getting across then you get a blue screen.


I heard that most HDMI cable signals begin to attenuate at approx. 30-35ft, to mitigate that issue, I purchased a HDMI over fibre cable, this works well for my HT. Initially I had a TX/RX combination, but I wanted a simpler solution. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## schmidtwi

ruggercb said:


> Does anyone here use this for gaming, specifically pc? I'm looking to upgrade from my benq w1070. Already have an A lens, running 2560x1080 down-sampled on a 125" scope screen from approx 10'.
> 
> I'm wondering if it will be a huge tangible difference in brightness/contrast/clarity. Thanks!


Several of us have upgraded from the BenQ 1070 to the Epson 5040 - the difference in brightness/contrast/clarity is tremendous!! I loved my 1070, but the Epson 5040 literally blows it away in games, UHD HDR movies and streaming. Highly recommend the upgrade - take advantage of the lowered price.


Note - make sure you have room for the Epson, it is significantly larger than the BenQ:


----------



## ruggercb

schmidtwi said:


> ruggercb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone here use this for gaming, specifically pc? I'm looking to upgrade from my benq w1070. Already have an A lens, running 2560x1080 down-sampled on a 125" scope screen from approx 10'.
> 
> I'm wondering if it will be a huge tangible difference in brightness/contrast/clarity. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Several of us have upgraded from the BenQ 1070 to the Epson 5040 - the difference in brightness/contrast/clarity is tremendous!! I loved my 1070, but the Epson 5040 literally blows it away in games, UHD HDR movies and streaming. Highly recommend the upgrade - take advantage of the lowered price.
> 
> 
> Note - make sure you have room for the Epson, it is significantly larger than the BenQ:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. The PJ will be here next week! I have plenty of room for it and thankfully I ran an 18 Gbps hdmi cable through the ceiling so the cable should never cause a problem. Can't wait to fire up some BF1 on it!


----------



## philipbtz

So what UHD BD player works 100% out of the box with this projector and can bitstream Atmos, DTS:X etc.? I have a Linker so it will probably work either way but it would be nice with something I know works without the Linker and does color, HDR etc. correct. Xbox One S for instance does nothing right. I was hoping they would have fixed it by now but turns out it will only be used for gaming. Blacklevel way off etc. 

I live in Sweden btw so it has to be available in a least Europe. Not interested in the Oppo since I'd rather spend my money on other stuff. The new LG with dolby vision, does anyone know anything about that player?


----------



## Bob Sorel

> I'm about ready to dump my JVC 420. I can't stand the native motion on it and the frame interpolation is buggy with a lot of banding artifacts.


Has anyone made or found a detailed list of the pluses and minuses of the 420 versus the 5040/6040? I have found comparisons with the 400, but only short comments here and there regarding the 420.


----------



## AMartin56

Bob Sorel said:


> Has anyone made or found a detailed list of the pluses and minuses of the 420 versus the 5040/6040? I have found comparisons with the 400, but only short comments here and there regarding the 420.


I've never had a 504O. But I would say the 420 would be a plus in pretty much every way over the 5040 as it should be considering the price difference. UNLESS you intend to use their motion smoothing. I hear it's less than ideal on the Epson but it's garbage on the JVC. 

You also might find that the JVC looks softer due to being LCoS but it's not a soft image over all. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

webmst said:


> Another way of dealing with 16:9 v 2.35 movies:
> Use 2 screens (cheap way - wall mount 2:35 + drop down 16:9 in front).
> I know this sounds a bit nuts (to some at first) but there is real merit here.
> A 2.35 is wide and not high (of course) and so if you get a 2.35 below, say 120" then watching 16:9 material not stretched can be quite underwhelming.
> As in the 16:9 picture fills only a portion of the centre of a 2.35 screen with large bars on each side.
> There are some blanking systems out there for lots of money or......
> Get a electric drop down 16:9 screen in front of the 2:35 screen.
> If you are watching a mix aspect film (and you don't want to miss any material) - show it on the 16:9 and then the screen will fill for the 16:9 segments and return to black bars top and bottom for the 2:35 material.
> OR just use the 5040 blanking on the 2:35 screen and don't worry about missing the top and bottom of the 16:9 material.


exact reason I got a 138" 2.35 as it is 54" in height and a 16:9 image is like a 110'" 16:9 screen and fits on the 2:35 screen above and below perfectly. So its almost like 2 screens, 110" 16:9 and a 138" 2.35.


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> No problem at all. You are fielding quite a lot of questions!
> 
> 
> 
> I tried streaming the YouTube 4K 60fps content through my XBox One S and the Epson info menu shows the signal as 4K and 60 Hz and it looks stunning. So it seems the 60' cable will do 60 fps? Must be the signal booster. (I usually go with Monoprice, but they didn't have a 60' in white). I guess I will go with this one and put it in the wall - hopefully I won't have issues down the road.
> 
> 
> 
> And new guy question - the Epson displays the refresh rate and not the fps. So how do I conclude I am viewing 60 Fps?


Was that 60p at 8 bit?

The Epson displays whatever it is getting on it's HDMI input. What is being sent over the HDMI cable is depending on the source and what it is capable of playing. You could be playing a UHD Blu-ray which is mastered in 4K 24P and set the Blu-ray player to output 4K 60P but the native frame rate is still 24P and the Blu-ray player is changing it to 60P and sending it to the Epson which makes it look like the Epson is getting a 60Hz refresh rate. You really just have to know what the source is that you're sending to it so you know the actual frame rate. Just about all movies are shot at 24 frames per second.

Refresh rate is usually in reference to the display and frame rate is usually in reference to the source signal. I think the Epson shows refresh rate because it really has no idea what the original frame rate of the signal was from the source that it's getting because that can also change it, as I said too. Here is a good page to read that talks about it but it's a little dated as I haven't needed or referred back to it for a while.:


https://www.lifewire.com/video-frame-vs-screen-refresh-rate-1847855 



bommai said:


> When I watched Bosch on Amazon, with all default settings on the projector, it must have changed it to HDR since that was set to Auto right. Bosch looked washed out. Then I went to another show The Holy Trinity and started applying the Harper Vision settings. Forced sdr. Changed color contrast gamma etc. kept super white off is that correct. So the incoming signal from Samsung is rec2020 hdr 24hz 4K and the projector is showing that in sdr with all the settings that I had applied. Looked great. High fan setting is loud though. Any way to run this with med fan.
> 
> Weird thing is samsung sends 60hz non hdr 4K to projector. I cannot use Harper vision for that right. Since it is not hdr. And Amazon. I have to to hdr shows. The Amazon menus look awful with Harper vision. So I saved a regular settings and harpervision settings into memory.
> 
> In the Sony player forum, they are saying that hdr works with Netflix but not with Amazon. Weird.




I thought I read that the Samsung had firmware updates that allowed it to play in 24P or something like that? I don't know I've never owned one so I never really read up a lot about it other than in passing. You should be able to send 4K HDR with wide color gamut from the Samsung to the Epson.

There's nothing stopping anyone from trying it in medium fan mode or even eco mode. That just affects the total brightness output just like in any other mode and is mostly a personal preference and environmental preference. If you think the image is pleasing enough and doesn't cause issues then go right ahead and use it. The high fan noise doesn't bother me as much first because I am old and my hearing probably sucks and I come from CERT projectors which were very loud and wants the movie starts and the sound is on and I get into it it just kind of melds into the background until there is a quiet seen anyway.

Yes when you go back to the menus or a regular SDR image then it will look jacked up with my settings, so I usually switch to natural mode which is set up for normal SDR signals and looks very nice. 

What they are saying with the Samsung player and Netflix having HDR and Amazon not having it is due to the app versions that the Samsung has and not whether Netflix or Amazon offers that as a whole on other platforms, because they do. What you're talking about is dependent on which platform and App version it has as to whether it does or doesn't do HDR.


----------



## nukequazar

I finally tried 3D on my 5040, and actually it was my first time for 3D at home. I have to say I think it is a complete waste of time and money for me, and I will probably return the glasses and the few discs I bought. The problem for me is that for any content that comes with a 4k disc and a 3D disc (1080), the quality of the 4k is so much better, and even has decent depth, that I won't ever want to watch the 3D version. And the 3D was underwhelming at that. There is added depth but it's not mind-blowing, and it's gimmicky, as usual. The only exception might be for kids, watching something like "Up" in 3D would probably be fun, but my kids are grown, so... Thoughts?


----------



## Bob Sorel

> I've never had a 504O. But I would say the 420 would be a plus in pretty much every way over the 5040 as it should be considering the price difference.


Thanks for the feedback. I know that JVC would win the black level and therefore the on/off contrast contests, but in what other ways is it superior? A few years back I switched from a JVC RS35 to an Epson 5020, and I found the Epson to be better in ANSI CR (perceived depth in mixed scenes), color uniformity (and therefore no light corners), sharpness, motion handling, 3D brightness and lack of ghosting, and then got a BIG win for customer service. Has JVC caught up and/or surpassed Epson on these other fronts?

BTW, I do not use any motion smoothing due to my high sensitivity to the soap opera effect, which really bugs me.

And of course the JVC doesn't come with Dave Harper...


----------



## AMartin56

Bob Sorel said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I know that JVC would win the black level and therefore the on/off contrast contests, but in what other ways is it superior? A few years back I switched from a JVC RS35 to an Epson 5020, and I found the Epson to be better in ANSI CR (perceived depth in mixed scenes), color uniformity (and therefore no light corners), sharpness, motion handling, 3D brightness and lack of ghosting, and then got a BIG win for customer service. Has JVC caught up and/or surpassed Epson on these other fronts?
> 
> BTW, I do not use any motion smoothing due to my high sensitivity to the soap opera effect, which really bugs me.


If that's been your experience I think you would see similar results now. I'm sure I'm missing something but on/off contrast and the ability to handle 4k60 HDR are the the big differences IMO. ANSI is still better on the Epson from what I understand. The 420 doesn't seem to have a bright corners issue but their support is still pretty much non-existent. 3 chip LED is always going to look sharper than LCoS IMO but it's due to the more obvious pixel structure which isn't exactly a good thing if you think about it. I don't feel like the JVC looks anything but sharp.

If you are looking for a reason to justify buying a JVC contrast is pretty much it. I don't find it class leading in much else that matters to ME. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Sorel

Thanks again for the feedback. I was hoping that JVC would have caught up in all departments by now, but it sounds like they still have the same problems. I guess I want it all, an Epson projector with JVC's contrast.

And at Epson's price.


----------



## AMartin56

Bob Sorel said:


> Thanks again for the feedback. I was hoping that JVC would have caught up in all departments by now, but it sounds like they still have the same problems. I guess I want it all, an Epson projector with JVC's contrast.
> 
> And at Epson's price.


Me too!  Which is why I'm so upset with JVC right now. Fix their CMD issue and it's damn near perfect for me and I can afford it too! But the one major issue is not something I can tolerate. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Bob Sorel said:


> .....And of course the JVC doesn't come with Dave Harper...



I think you mean......*"THE HARPERVISION EXPERIENCE!!!"*  

But actually it sorta does. I have been messing with the same thing on the RS600 I have here. It's quite amazing and while I am still tweaking it, I think it'll blow away the 5040, as it should, considering.


----------



## roland6465

First off- I love that Dave Harper has spent the time and eye strain to get his settings tweaked as well as they seem to be. But on the other hand, it makes me thankful that my little room and little 88" screen can push out the brightness in Epson's HDR1 configuration. As much as I like to tinker, I'm glad this is one thing I haven't had to deal with.

Major applause to Dave, though, for putting in the effort for those with big screens.


----------



## Dave Harper

roland6465 said:


> First off- I love that Dave Harper has spent the time and eye strain to get his settings tweaked as well as they seem to be. But on the other hand, it makes me thankful that my little room and little 88" screen can push out the brightness in Epson's HDR1 configuration. As much as I like to tinker, I'm glad this is one thing I haven't had to deal with.
> 
> 
> 
> Major applause to Dave, though, for putting in the effort for those with big screens.



Thank you, but......

It turned out to not only be about screen size and brightness though. The quality of the image also seems to be greatly improved. It may be worth 5 minutes to input my settings and then another hour or so doing comparisons.


----------



## nukequazar

Does anybody know if there's any chance of firmware updates over the ethernet port in the future? And is there any use for ethernet in a typical home theatre? Seems it's just for getting a PC image up to the projector.


----------



## sddp

nukequazar said:


> I finally tried 3D on my 5040, and actually it was my first time for 3D at home. I have to say I think it is a complete waste of time and money for me, and I will probably return the glasses and the few discs I bought. The problem for me is that for any content that comes with a 4k disc and a 3D disc (1080), the quality of the 4k is so much better, and even has decent depth, that I won't ever want to watch the 3D version. And the 3D was underwhelming at that. There is added depth but it's not mind-blowing, and it's gimmicky, as usual. The only exception might be for kids, watching something like "Up" in 3D would probably be fun, but my kids are grown, so... Thoughts?






It's not for everyone. But 3D is a BIG thing. Rogue one in 3D was sold out in almost ALL BestBuy's, Walmart, Target, etc when it came out and it's still kind of hard to find a copy. There's a ton of posts here for love of 3D and the unfortunate fact that there are some issues with ghosting on this unit. I for one ONLY buy 3D Blu Rays and slowly re-doing my library of DVDs/2D Blu Rays to 3D. And the titles that are not available in 3D I use my 3D-Bee unit to convert which is as good if not better than original 3D BR. Almost all PJ come with 3D btw


----------



## nukequazar

sddp said:


> It's not for everyone. But 3D is a BIG thing. Rogue one in 3D was sold out in almost ALL BestBuy's, Walmart, Target, etc when it came out and it's still kind of hard to find a copy. There's a ton of posts here for love of 3D and the unfortunate fact that there are some issues with ghosting on this unit. I for one ONLY buy 3D Blu Rays and slowly re-doing my library of DVDs/2D Blu Rays to 3D. And the titles that are not available in 3D I use my 3D-Bee unit to convert which is as good if not better than original 3D BR. Almost all PJ come with 3D btw


Thanks for the reply. I guess I have always been too focused on seeing a beautiful image, whether in a theatre, home, or even still photos. 3D will always be of compromised image quality, and the effect does not outweigh it for me. Glad to hear that people are enjoying it, though, since it seemed to be going away for a while in the home market. Great to have it available.


----------



## terminal33

ruggercb said:


> Thanks for the input. The PJ will be here next week! I have plenty of room for it and thankfully I ran an 18 Gbps hdmi cable through the ceiling so the cable should never cause a problem. Can't wait to fire up some BF1 on it!


BF1 looks fantabulous! I played the War Stories twice in the same week. Of course the awesome sound of BF1 enhances the overall experience.


----------



## terminal33

Dave Harper said:


> I think you mean......*"THE HARPERVISION EXPERIENCE!!!"*
> 
> But actually it sorta does. I have been messing with the same thing on the RS600 I have here. It's quite amazing and while I am still tweaking it, I think it'll blow away the 5040, as it should, considering.


I activated HarperVision a few days ago and wowzers! I was a little skeptical at first because I've tried so many settings and nothing truly impressed me. But I'll have to say that I'm really liking the HV settings. I've tested Pacific Rim, X-men: Apocalypse, Magnificent Seven, Sully, and Ghostbusters (chick version). I even watched Hidden Figures today and can see the improvement. So thanks Dave for your work!

But did I read somewhere that you changed the Color Saturation setting to around 72? Also, I can see that the High lamp mode makes a pretty noticeable difference compared to Medium lamp mode. But if I did want to use Medium, what settings should I change to compensate for the loss of brightness? Would it be the gamma settings? If so, I don't feel qualified enough to mess with those. Anyway, thanks again Dave!


----------



## Malt

Hi, guys. I'm loving all these photos of the Epsons in action and I'm seriously considering buying one. I have one stumbling block - I currently use a 10M (32ft) High Speed HDMI cable to my Epson TW3200 with no problems but I'm not sure if this PJ will accept a cable that length for all 4K modes given the distance and bandwidth.

Is anyone using a similar length cable, or has one to try that can let me know, as I can't go shorter.

I'm only looking for real world tests, not theory, as I can't afford to make a mistake.

Thanks in advance if anyone is able to help.


----------



## terminal33

Malt said:


> Hi, guys. I'm loving all these photos of the Epsons in action and I'm seriously considering buying one. I have one stumbling block - I currently use a 10M (32ft) High Speed HDMI cable to my Epson TW3200 with no problems but I'm not sure if this PJ will accept a cable that length for all 4K modes given the distance and bandwidth.
> 
> Is anyone using a similar length cable, or has one to try that can let me know, as I can't go shorter.
> 
> I'm only looking for real world tests, not theory, as I can't afford to make a mistake.
> 
> Thanks in advance if anyone is able to help.


I'm using this cable and it was worked flawlessly for 4K.


----------



## robc1976

terminal33 said:


> I'm using this cable and it was worked flawlessly for 4K.


I bought a 35ft cable of this, never used it if anyone wants it for $30. I had to use 45ft.


----------



## robc1976

With no.movie on and epson on I have a circle/spot or discoloration on screen? Did my lens get Dust on it? How do you clean the lens?


----------



## Dave Harper

terminal33 said:


> I activated HarperVision a few days ago and wowzers! I was a little skeptical at first because I've tried so many settings and nothing truly impressed me. But I'll have to say that I'm really liking the HV settings. I've tested Pacific Rim, X-men: Apocalypse, Magnificent Seven, Sully, and Ghostbusters (chick version). I even watched Hidden Figures today and can see the improvement. So thanks Dave for your work!
> 
> 
> 
> But did I read somewhere that you changed the Color Saturation setting to around 72? Also, I can see that the High lamp mode makes a pretty noticeable difference compared to Medium lamp mode. But if I did want to use Medium, what settings should I change to compensate for the loss of brightness? Would it be the gamma settings? If so, I don't feel qualified enough to mess with those. Anyway, thanks again Dave!


Thank you so much for the kind words.  I really just like to mess around and see what I can come up with. The same ole, same ole boring calibrations get tiresome after awhile when it's so dull and rigid. Like an accountant at tax time. I like to start there and then mix it up a little. 

Yes I did say that I backed color saturation down to about 72. I think that was for one particular disc that seemed a bit overblown. It was very late and my eyes were bugging out. I revisited it the other night and threw up some Masciola's patterns and actually right at 80 seems best actually. It had the best "blend" with the flashing color bars and boxes. 

One of these nights I'll be able to get in there before 10 or 11pm and then really get deep into the settings and maybe come out with something even better. The last time I had that amount of time, I devoted it to the RS600 and now I'll hopefully get the LS10000 in here this week. 





robc1976 said:


> With no.movie on and epson on I have a circle/spot or discoloration on screen? Did my lens get Dust on it? How do you clean the lens?



Sounds like a dust blob. Send a picture. I would try a can of compressed air first.


----------



## jbrazda

@Dave Harper, what settings are you using for regular bluray watching? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

AMartin56 said:


> My apologies if asking this here like this seems lazy but I'm hoping a few owners will help a brother out.
> 
> I'm about ready to dump my JVC 420. I can't stand the native motion on it and the frame interpolation is buggy with a lot of banding artifacts.
> 
> My options are a bit limited in this price range but I'm considering a 5040 even though it won't do frame interpolation at all with 4k.
> 
> My only experience with Epson motion smoothing was on a 2040. The lowest setting had too much SOE for me.
> 
> Would anybody be willing to comment on how aggressive the smoothing on the 5040 is? I'm just looking for something to smooth out the judder on 1080/24p Blu-rays. If anyone upgraded from a Sony 40ES I really liked Motionflow on Low.





seplant said:


> The 5040/6040 has issues with motion and frame interpolation as well. I'm a fan of frame interpolation when it is done well, and I keep it turned off on my 6040. It's okay on scenes where there is little motion on the screen, like when people are standing around talking and they move a bit here and there, but whenever there is a lot of action, it gets juddery and jagged. I'm going to see a JVC RS400 in action today, so maybe I will be able to compare the motion with my Epson. I'll report back if I think it is better or worse.


After seeing a JVC RS400 yesterday, I would say that it handles motion about the same as the Epson 5040/6040. No worse or better. As far as other comparisons, after watching the Epson again last night, I would say the the JVC image looked a tad softer, but that is probably due to the LCOS technology on the JVC and all the image enhancements on the Epson adding to the perceived sharpness. I found it interesting that while the 4K enhancement makes a huge difference on standard blu-rays with the Epson, it made virtually no difference on the JVC. The image without the enhancement looked that good, and I couldn't see any pixels on the screen with the JVC even when standing a foot away from the screen. The JVC also was very quiet in high lamp mode, no louder than the Epson in Medium lamp mode. I will say that the HDMI handshaking time on the JVC was really bad, and there apparently is an issue with the JVC forcing a preset gamma curve whenever HDR content is detected, preventing the use of custom gamma curves unless using a device like the Linker to strip the HDR flag. The image with the preset gamma curve looked bad - dark image and colors looked off, but with a custom gamma curve the image looked great.

But the big difference between the two was the 3D performance. While the Epson (mine and many others, at least) has terrible ghosting from cross talk, the JVC 3D image was absolutely perfect. No ghosting whatsoever. And that was without any adjustments to the 3D settings and the lamp on high. I played the same discs that have given me fits on the Epson (Rogue One, Doctor Strange, Edge of Tomorrow).



Bob Sorel said:


> Has anyone made or found a detailed list of the pluses and minuses of the 420 versus the 5040/6040? I have found comparisons with the 400, but only short comments here and there regarding the 420.


I too would be interested in seeing a comparison to the 420.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## Bob Sorel

A *VERY* important consideration for those trying to decide between the 5040ub and the 6040ub is that the 6040 is "anamorphic lens ready" while the 5040 will require you to either use the zoom method or an external video processor in order accommodate a CIH setup. Sources like Sound and Vision magazine incorrectly report that the differences between the 5040ub and the 6040ub are:

1. ISF calibrated modes
2. extra lamp
3. mount
4. case color

and that everything else is IDENTICAL between these 2 machines. If you are the owner of a physical anamorphic lens, then support for it is absolutely necessary, and that support is sorely missing from the 5040ub, so do not be misled by these false reports.

BTW, it is a real shame to be forced to buy a video processor just for anamorphic support. Does anyone know of a box (HDMI 2.0 with HDCP 2.2) that will accomplish this simple task without the need to buy a full blown VP or the more expensive 6040ub, especially when some people do not need or want the 4 other things that the 6040 provides. I really love my Epson projectors (I have owned a 5020 and now a 5030), but shame on them for continuing the lack of anamorphic lens support even in the 5040.


----------



## AMartin56

Interesting. I have a lens but with anything that has motorized zoom and lens memory I normally don't install it. I just can't avoid pincushion in my setup. 

But yeah I could see if they didn't provide the mode in 4k but 1080p should have it available.

I will say that while my experience is limited to Sony a Lumagen does a much better job of aanamorphic scaling than my Sony projector did. MUCH better. But of course they are expensive. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Sorel

> I will say that while my experience is limited to Sony a Lumagen does a much better job of aanamorphic scaling than my Sony projector did. MUCH better. But of course they are expensive.


I have a Mini 3D that I have been using with my 5020 and 5030, but since it is an HDMI 1.4 device, it would be almost useless with any of the new PJs. I wonder if Lumagen would/could refit the Mini 3D for HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2...my guess is no.

My old JVC RS35 did as good a job with anamorphic scaling as the Lumagen. It really isn't a very difficult task...it is included on most decent HTPC player apps like MPC-HC and J. River Media Center...MPC-HC is *FREE*.... The problem is that I have no way to apply the anamorphic scaling to any other sources.


----------



## LFE Junkie

Will be getting my 6040ub calibrated in a few hours by Jeff Meier. Can't wait to see the difference. I have been running this thing w/ no changes out of the box for 3 months.


----------



## dholmes54

Bob Sorel said:


> A *VERY* important consideration for those trying to decide between the 5040ub and the 6040ub is that the 6040 is "anamorphic lens ready" while the 5040 will require you to either use the zoom method or an external video processor in order accommodate a CIH setup. Sources like Sound and Vision magazine incorrectly report that the differences between the 5040ub and the 6040ub are:
> 
> 1. ISF calibrated modes
> 2. extra lamp
> 3. mount
> 4. case color
> 
> and that everything else is IDENTICAL between these 2 machines. If you are the owner of a physical anamorphic lens, then support for it is absolutely necessary, and that support is sorely missing from the 5040ub, so do not be misled by these false reports.
> 
> BTW, it is a real shame to be forced to buy a video processor just for anamorphic support. Does anyone know of a box (HDMI 2.0 with HDCP 2.2) that will accomplish this simple task without the need to buy a full blown VP or the more expensive 6040ub, especially when some people do not need or want the 4 other things that the 6040 provides. I really love my Epson projectors (I have owned a 5020 and now a 5030), but shame on them for continuing the lack of anamorphic lens support even in the 5040.


And may I add the 6040 comes with one more year of warranty coverage


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Thank you, but......
> 
> It turned out to not only be about screen size and brightness though. The quality of the image also seems to be greatly improved. It may be worth 5 minutes to input my settings and then another hour or so doing comparisons.


Dave, dumb question...still a bit btw to this. Can I use your settings on 1080P non HDR. MY theater is only used for blueray and Xbox 1 if that matters.


----------



## panman40

LFE Junkie said:


> Will be getting my 6040ub calibrated in a few hours by Jeff Meier. Can't wait to see the difference. I have been running this thing w/ no changes out of the box for 3 months.


Good stuff, don't be scared to share UHD and 3D settings with us lol.


----------



## bommai

Good news. I just got the planet earth 2 4K bluray set. Tried it out on my Samsung uhd player using my 7.5 year old monoprice 25' hdmi cables and works great on my 5040ub. I am using the harpervision settings and it is fabulous. Just wanted to check if I should use hdmi auto or extended. I took screenshots of some of my settings.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ayrton

*Streaming 4K media player*

Plan on purchasing a 4K streaming player for my HT. I have read about some not working well with the 5040. My main interests are Netflix and Amazon. I personally am looking at the Nvidia Shield.. Any suggestions appreciated..

What internet speed do you recommend to to the above. I'm at 15 Mb now.

Planning the move to Harpervision soon.. (Thanks Dave)


----------



## bommai

ayrton said:


> Plan on purchasing a 4K streaming player for my HT. I have read about some not working well with the 5040. My main interests are Netflix and Amazon. I personally am looking at the Nvidia Shield.. Any suggestions appreciated..
> 
> 
> 
> What internet speed do you recommend to to the above. I'm at 15 Mb now.
> 
> 
> 
> Planning the move to Harpervision soon.. (Thanks Dave)




Do you already have a uhd player? If not, why don't you buy a uhd player that also streams? I just bought a Samsung uhd from Sam's club for $229. It plays uhd, regular blurays and streams Netflix and Amazon in 4k. Looks amazing. You tube 4k is amazing too. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Dave, dumb question...still a bit btw to this. Can I use your settings on 1080P non HDR. MY theater is only used for blueray and Xbox 1 if that matters.


No, the whole premise starts with an HDR signal, not SDR. It _may_ work on a 1080p HDR signal if you can get one. I'm not a gamer but heard you can do games in 1080p HDR from consoles. I'm thinking I may try to set my UHD player to output 1080p using an HDR disc to see what can be done, if nothing but for the fun of it and to see if it's possible. I'll let you know if I do though. 

It's really not hard to do and for anyone to try. My enemy is time!





Bob Sorel said:


> ....BTW, it is a real shame to be forced to buy a video processor just for anamorphic support. Does anyone know of a box (HDMI 2.0 with HDCP 2.2) that will accomplish this simple task without the need to buy a full blown VP or the more expensive 6040ub, especially when some people do not need or want the 4 other things that the 6040 provides. I really love my Epson projectors (I have owned a 5020 and now a 5030), but shame on them for continuing the lack of anamorphic lens support even in the 5040.


Hey Bob, long time no talk sir! I think from back in the old CRT days? Didn't you used to have some TAW gear or something?

I think what I would do for that is get the Oppo 203 UHD Bluray player that has anamorphic lens support. 





jbrazda said:


> @Dave Harper, what settings are you using for regular bluray watching?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I did a greyscale calibration, I know that, but I've actually not watched a regular Bluray since getting this projector again, other than a 3D one, Rogue One (which the ghosting was horrible btw!). For SDR HD I put it in Natural mode. I can share settings when I get back in there again. 

When I go in to mess around it's always with UHD Bluray so far. When it's movie night then it's either a UHD Bluray we bought or Streaming.


----------



## robc1976

Decided I am ordering a 4K receiver and player right now, my only concern is I have to use a 45ft HDMI (4K monoprice cable in this thread). Will that b okay?

My installer said something about a 4K optical HDMI cad 6 cable may be needed?


----------



## robc1976

Lost my notes on wich phillips/panasonic bluray player works best with the 5040ub with 4K

Anyone point me in right direction


----------



## robc1976

Upgrading all equipment to 4K and Looking to get the philips "BDP7501" but the salesman said this particular blue ray player will only play 5.1 so my audyssey DSX 11.2 system wouldn't work with this unit.  I thought A-dsx was just a added algorithm and sends surround content to wide's/heights/surround back channels so it is essentially a 5.1 system with expanded comtent?  Will this player work?  Really wanted it since its the best fit for my epson 5040 projector.

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H...etailBullets_secondary_view_div_1492986359273


----------



## ayrton

bommai said:


> Do you already have a uhd player? If not, why don't you buy a uhd player that also streams? I just bought a Samsung uhd from Sam's club for $229. It plays uhd, regular blurays and streams Netflix and Amazon in 4k. Looks amazing. You tube 4k is amazing too.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, a 203 with no apps, which is OK with me. I'm looking for a dedicated UHD streaming device.. Maybe if I can't find my dedicated streaming thing, I will replace my 93 with the Sammy. Not much cost difference between the Nvidia and Sammy and then I've got a backup UHD player!! 

Thanks for your reply..


----------



## ndabunka

robc1976 said:


> Upgrading all equipment to 4K and Looking to get the philips "BDP7501" but the salesman said this particular blue ray player will only play 5.1 so my audyssey DSX 11.2 system wouldn't work with this unit.  I thought A-dsx was just a added algorithm and sends surround content to wide's/heights/surround back channels so it is essentially a 5.1 system with expanded comtent?  Will this player work?  Really wanted it since its the best fit for my epson 5040 projector.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H...etailBullets_secondary_view_div_1492986359273


That particular "salesperson" (term used lightly) must be smoking crack. I have a BDP 7501 paired with my Epson 5040ub & a Yamaha RX-3060 with 7.1.4. No issues here. I picked one up from JET.COM with 15% off for something around $175 total cost including shipping.

I have had success with the max 4K resolution using a 35ft cable from monoprice


----------



## ndabunka

nukequazar said:


> I finally tried 3D on my 5040, and actually it was my first time for 3D at home. I have to say I think it is a complete waste of time and money for me, and I will probably return the glasses and the few discs I bought. The problem for me is that for any content that comes with a 4k disc and a 3D disc (1080), the quality of the 4k is so much better, and even has decent depth, that I won't ever want to watch the 3D version. And the 3D was underwhelming at that. There is added depth but it's not mind-blowing, and it's gimmicky, as usual. The only exception might be for kids, watching something like "Up" in 3D would probably be fun, but my kids are grown, so... Thoughts?


The 3D quality is HIGHLY dependent upon the 3D glasses and settings on the projector for your particular taste. I use the Active 3D and they do a great job on a number of 3D DVDs (Tron, Avatar, etc) but I would agree, this psuedo 4K is so well done that we also don't watch much 3D anymore


----------



## robc1976

ndabunka said:


> That particular "salesperson" (term used lightly) must be smoking crack. I have a BDP 7501 paired with my Epson 5040ub & a Yamaha RX-3060 with 7.1.4. No issues here. I picked one up from JET.COM with 15% off for something around $175 total cost including shipping.
> 
> I have had success with the max 4K resolution using a 35ft cable from monoprice


its what I thought, I.have to use a 45ft monoprice cable, shortest I can not go shorter. Will this be okay?


----------



## Bob Sorel

> Hey Bob, long time no talk sir! I think from back in the old CRT days? Didn't you used to have some TAW gear or something?


Your memory is better than mine, Dave! My CRT was from Tim in Scottsdale...an Electrohome Marquee 9000...a great unit in its day.


> I think what I would do for that is get the Oppo 203 UHD Bluray player that has anamorphic lens support.


That would work great for UHD Blu-rays, but I'd rather have one device that takes care of all of my sources like FiOS and Mede8er. I think that handling an anamorphic lens is best done in the projector, or between the AVR and projector so that it only has to be done once for all sources. Maybe it is just best to keep the 5030 for now until all of this HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2/HDR stuff gets sorted out. Everything works great and easily using 1080p over HDMI 1.4.


----------



## rupedogg24

Brandon Beckstead said:


> I could use some help, I'm pretty new with all of this. I just got an Epson 4040(which is similar to the 5040 I believe which is why I'm posting here) and expected HDR to work with my PS4. (I have a Marantz SR5011 receiver if that helps.) I have the video settings on my PS4 for HDR set to Automatic. The settings are the same on my Epson 4040, HDR is set to Automatic. When I play a game that uses HDR (Like Horizon Zero Dawn), the whole screen goes a weird purple/pink color. In the game settings for Horizon Zero Dawn I can turn off the HDR and everything goes back to normal. I have tried this with other games that use HDR and get the same result. Is there any solution to this? Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,


Have you tried locking the ps4 at 1080p instead of auto?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

There is a smudge or fingerprint on lens, how do I clean this? Microfiber ir eyeglass cloth?


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> When it's movie night then it's either a UHD Bluray we bought or Streaming.


Dave, your previous posts suggest you use the Panasonic UB900 for the UHD Blurays. Do you use this to stream as well or do you have a dedicated streaming device?


----------



## AMartin56

Wish me luck. I have a 5040 inbound from Amazon that should be here tomorrow.

I had 40ES that I was very happy with. Loved the motion in particular but I got tired of the inability to completely eliminate anamorphic lens pincushion with my setup and got the urge to try for my contrast and zoom method. 

So I tried a JVC but it's not working out. But I've got the motorized zoom and 4K bug now so I need a port in a storm for a bit. I know I'll eventually be back to Sony but I'm waiting for a few things to shake out with them.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I'll like the motion on the Epson. If I don't it's back to a 45ES. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

ndabunka said:


> That particular "salesperson" (term used lightly) must be smoking crack. I have a BDP 7501 paired with my Epson 5040ub & a Yamaha RX-3060 with 7.1.4. No issues here. I picked one up from JET.COM with 15% off for something around $175 total cost including shipping.
> 
> I have had success with the max 4K resolution using a 35ft cable from monoprice


ndabunka!!! Where have you been sir? I've been waiting for you to reply here. I don't think I've heard from you since the first time I had a 5040 here. Glad to see you still have one. Try my HarperVision settings. 




Bob Sorel said:


> Your memory is better than mine, Dave! My CRT was from Tim in Scottsdale...an Electrohome Marquee 9000...a great unit in its day.
> 
> That would work great for UHD Blu-rays, but I'd rather have one device that takes care of all of my sources like FiOS and Mede8er. I think that handling an anamorphic lens is best done in the projector, or between the AVR and projector so that it only has to be done once for all sources. Maybe it is just best to keep the 5030 for now until all of this HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2/HDR stuff gets sorted out. Everything works great and easily using 1080p over HDMI 1.4.


OMG that's right!  What was his name, Tim Martin or something, in AZ? He had tons of Marquees and he worked with Mike Parker (with his board mods) who's from around D.C. Too funny and great times sir! Man that's when this hobby was super fun with all the mods and time tweaking those CRTs you could do....wow! Digital a are so easy now comparatively. Except maybe all this new stuff that has to be learned with the fiasco known as HDR bt2020 on projectors. 

Yes I agree, if you want the lens for more than discs then an external box of some sort is best. 

Maybe Phil Tuttobene will come out of retirement and hire Mark Rejhon to build the new Rock HDR Video Processor! 




robc1976 said:


> Lost my notes on wich phillips/panasonic bluray player works best with the 5040ub with 4K
> 
> Anyone point me in right direction


Panasonic UB900 is definitely the best if you want to use the HDR Tone Brightness Slider control to use Digital Cinema mode with its P3 color filter. Of course this is if you don't want to use my HarperVision settings instead, but they're kind of extreme so I understand why a lot wouldn't. 




jwhn said:


> Dave, your previous posts suggest you use the Panasonic UB900 for the UHD Blurays. Do you use this to stream as well or do you have a dedicated streaming device?


No I also have a Firetv box and Roku Premiere+ and a TiVo Roamio. I mainly use the Roku now since I don't have PS Vue anymore. I haven't even tried the ub900 streaming yet actually.


----------



## robc1976

I watched 1st movie tonight and it was in 2:39 and I have a 2:35 screen. I had trouble getting picture to fit but I think I did this backwards.

I did this

1. Set screen to 2:35
2. Used blanking to try to get picture to edges but slider maxed out on top.

Should I have judy zoomed then used blanking? 

In am very new to this obviously lol


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I watched 1st movie tonight and it was in 2:39 and I have a 2:35 screen. I had trouble getting picture to fit but I think I did this backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> I did this
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Set screen to 2:35
> 
> 2. Used blanking to try to get picture to edges but slider maxed out on top.
> 
> 
> 
> Should I have judy zoomed then used blanking?
> 
> 
> 
> In am very new to this obviously lol



2.40 is wider than 2.35 so you have to just zoom until the left and right sides meet the sides of your screen. You'll then have a small letterbox bar at the top and bottom of the image on screen. You can then choose to blank it down and up on top and bottom, but I usually don't bother. You can also choose to zoom until the top and bottom meet their respective edges and some of the sides will spill off, then blank those out, but then you'll miss whatever video is in those parts. It's a preference, but purists like me would not do that.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> 2.40 is wider than 2.35 so you have to just zoom until the left and right sides meet the sides of your screen. You'll then have a small letterbox bar at the top and bottom of the image on screen. You can then choose to blank it down and up on top and bottom, but I usually don't bother. You can also choose to zoom until the top and bottom meet their respective edges and some of the sides will spill off, then blank those out, but then you'll miss whatever video is in those parts. It's a preference, but purists like me would not do that.


I.had very small bars on sides like 2:40 wss not wider? I would have thought the 240 would have went to edges if wider. 

Still learning controls, haven't even found zoom yet on remote lol!


----------



## k3nnis

AMartin56 said:


> Wish me luck. I have a 5040 inbound from Amazon that should be here tomorrow.
> 
> I had 40ES that I was very happy with. Loved the motion in particular but I got tired of the inability to completely eliminate anamorphic lens pincushion with my setup and got the urge to try for my contrast and zoom method.
> 
> So I tried a JVC but it's not working out. But I've got the motorized zoom and 4K bug now so I need a port in a storm for a bit. I know I'll eventually be back to Sony but I'm waiting for a few things to shake out with them.
> 
> I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I'll like the motion on the Epson. If I don't it's back to a 45ES.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk




Cool. Please let us know how you go with the 5040. Also can I ask what does a dynamic iris give to a projector ? Ie HW65 vs HW45? Black levels?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

k3nnis said:


> Cool. Please let us know how you go with the 5040. Also can I ask what does a dynamic iris give to a projector ? Ie HW65 vs HW45? Black levels?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



It dynamically changes an iris in the light path based on APL (average picture level) of the scene it's showing. Basically think of it like how the iris in your eye works, only in the reverse. When it senses bright light your eye's iris closes, when in dark environments it opens. For a projector it closes down in darker scenes to allow less light to leave the lens to preserve and improve black levels and shadow details. When on a high brightness scene it opens up to give you max light output for some bright, impactful things like explosions and HDR specular highlights. 




robc1976 said:


> I.had very small bars on sides like 2:40 wss not wider? I would have thought the 240 would have went to edges if wider.
> 
> 
> 
> Still learning controls, haven't even found zoom yet on remote lol!



No, wider means that to fit on a smaller aspect ratio screen, in order to get the whole image on screen you'd have to shrink it down until the sides match the width. Since it's a wider aspect, that leaves the top and bottom smaller, hence the letterbox bars. It's the same thing we went through when we had 4:3 TVs and went to wider 16:9 HDTV and DVD videos. Remember the widescreen DVDs that had letterbox bats top and bottom on your old 4:3 CRT TV? Same thing here, just now these scope aspects are even wider than 16:9. This is why many use a 2.40:1 scope screen, so they can have CIH (Constant Image Height) and as their aspect ratios change to 2.35:1, 1.85:1, 1.78:1, 4:3, etc., the height of it stays the same and the sides just shrink in. It makes it easy to mask too, cuz you only need side masking or curtains. This is basically mostly what the theaters do too. 

The LENS button on the remote is what calls up FOCUS, ZOOM and SHIFT functions as you hit the button each time.


----------



## k3nnis

Dave Harper said:


> It dynamically changes an iris in the light path based on APL (average picture level) of the scene it's showing. Basically think of it like how the iris in your eye works, only in the reverse. When it senses bright light your eye's iris closes, when in dark environments it opens. For a projector it closes down in darker scenes to allow less light to leave the lens to preserve and improve black levels and shadow details. When on a high brightness scene it opens up to give you max light output for some bright, impactful things like explosions and HDR specular highlights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, wider means that to fit on a smaller aspect ratio screen, in order to get the whole image on screen you'd have to shrink it down until the sides match the width. Since it's a wider aspect, that leaves the top and bottom smaller, hence the letterbox bars. It's the same thing we went through when we had 4:3 TVs and went to wider 16:9 HDTV and DVD videos. Remember the widescreen DVDs that had letterbox bats top and bottom on your old 4:3 CRT TV? Same thing here, just now these scope aspects are even wider than 16:9. This is why many use a 2.40:1 scope screen, so they can have CIH (Constant Image Height) and as their aspect ratios change to 2.35:1, 1.85:1, 1.78:1, 4:3, etc., the height of it stays the same and the sides just shrink in. It makes it easy to mask too, cuz you only need side masking or curtains. This is basically mostly what the theaters do too.
> 
> The LENS button on the remote is what calls up FOCUS, ZOOM and SHIFT functions as you hit the button each time.




Thanks Dave. The million dollar question is having a dynamic iris in the hw65 much better than no iris hw45


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

k3nnis said:


> Thanks Dave. The million dollar question is having a dynamic iris in the hw65 much better than no iris hw45
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Usually, the answer is easily yes which is why that one is considered a higher end unit with a higher cost, but there are a few people that don't like the "pumping" an auto iris can cause and it bugs them more than the extra contrast they may be seeing, so wouldn't bother even turning on the auto iris anyway. 

I don't know the other differences off the top of my head but as always, the best thing to do is demo them yourself.


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AMartin56

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Go to the Sound and Vision website. They review the 45,65 and 5040. Each review has a section where they measure the black levels. All three will have similar NATIVE contrast but you'll get some idea of how the iris helps because they​ include it when doing their testing. If I remember correctly the 65 and 5040 where both in the 0.001 ftL range and the 45 came in at 0.004. The numbers are tiny but that is a significant increase on the 45es.

For advanced contrast measures I think Projection Dream reviewed the Epson and the 65Es. They will have ANSI etc.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Does the black bars bother everyone that much,i don't even notice mine on the 1.85 screen I have,but a 2.35 screen is pretty cool,but you will have side bars on the rare 1.85 movie won't you.Any blu-ray or uhd player will play up to 7.1 or more if you have atmos if you use HDMI


----------



## robc1976

dholmes54 said:


> Does the black bars bother everyone that much,i don't even notice mine on the 1.85 screen I have,but a 2.35 screen is pretty cool,but you will have side bars on the rare 1.85 movie won't you.Any blu-ray or uhd player will play up to 7.1 or more if you have atmos if you use HDMI


 they don't bother me on a 16:9 movie, but on wider format I like full screen lol!


----------



## Schuyler Bain

Getting ready to purchase my first projector for my theater room. I'm reading mixed reviews about the the fan loudness of the 5040UB. Some say quiet, others say so LOUD that they're considering returning it. Maybe it depends what you are used to/tolerance for fan noise. Maybe there's some lemons...

In a dead quiet room, how would you guys rate sound of this projector compared to others - scale of 1-10? Is anyone running theirs in a projector/hush box? If I decide on this unit - will probably purchase from Crutchfie!d.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> No, wider means that to fit on a smaller aspect ratio screen, in order to get the whole image on screen you'd have to shrink it down until the sides match the width. Since it's a wider aspect, that leaves the top and bottom smaller, hence the letterbox bars. It's the same thing we went through when we had 4:3 TVs and went to wider 16:9 HDTV and DVD videos. Remember the widescreen DVDs that had letterbox bats top and bottom on your old 4:3 CRT TV? Same thing here, just now these scope aspects are even wider than 16:9. This is why many use a 2.40:1 scope screen, so they can have CIH (Constant Image Height) and as their aspect ratios change to 2.35:1, 1.85:1, 1.78:1, 4:3, etc., the height of it stays the same and the sides just shrink in. It makes it easy to mask too, cuz you only need side masking or curtains. This is basically mostly what the theaters do too.
> 
> The LENS button on the remote is what calls up FOCUS, ZOOM and SHIFT functions as you hit the button each time.


 that is, what is confusing me, the 2:39 image on my 2:35 screen wss smaller? I had bars on sides? Oh....I did hit lens memory for 2:35 screen, I am guessing that is why it was smaller? 

So correct way is to have my screen at 16:9 when I start movie and zoom to fit screen? Guess I could do that on 2:35 memory also and zoom also.


----------



## AMartin56

Schuyler Bain said:


> Getting ready to purchase my first projector for my theater room. I'm reading mixed reviews about the the fan loudness of the 5040UB. Some say quiet, others say so LOUD that they're considering returning it. Maybe it depends what you are used to/tolerance for fan noise. Maybe there's some lemons...
> 
> In a dead quiet room, how would you guys rate sound of this projector compared to others - scale of 1-10? Is anyone running theirs in a projector/hush box? If I decide on this unit - will probably purchase from Crutchfie!d.


I'll know later today when my arrives but judging by the specs this thing is awfully bright so I think the bulb would have to age considerably before I'd ever have to run it on high lamp. Initially I'll be testing on a desk about three feet from my chair but if I keep it it will be mounted about three feet above my center chair. I imagine it will be quiet enough on Low. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## darkangelism

Schuyler Bain said:


> Getting ready to purchase my first projector for my theater room. I'm reading mixed reviews about the the fan loudness of the 5040UB. Some say quiet, others say so LOUD that they're considering returning it. Maybe it depends what you are used to/tolerance for fan noise. Maybe there's some lemons...
> 
> In a dead quiet room, how would you guys rate sound of this projector compared to others - scale of 1-10? Is anyone running theirs in a projector/hush box? If I decide on this unit - will probably purchase from Crutchfie!d.


I think it depends on your tolerance level. It is quieter than my HTPC so I didn't really notice it unless I was right next to it and now that it is mounted, I don't notice at all.


----------



## seplant

RyanChristopher said:


> So I know someone asked a page or two back what was the latest from Epson regarding the 3D Crosstalk issue. I originally contacted Epson about a week and a half ago just to file a complaint so they took the Crosstalk issue seriously. I emailed them my setting on both the projector and OPPO 203. They asked me to change one setting to which I did and reported that did nothing in fact I felt it made it worse. That was all last week and a week went by with nothing besides their engineers were going to look into it.
> Epson Support just sent me an email that said the following.
> "The engineers would like me to replace your projector with a new so we can get yours into our Corp HQ and take a look at it."
> So I am preparing to ship my projector to them tonight. Since the first 5040UB I bought had dead pixel issue I also requested them to test the new unit prior to shipping it and they agreed to tat but added it would add an extra day to the shipping process.
> So that is where I am at currently. Will report back when the new unit arrives and I can test it out.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


RyanChristopher - I spoke with Tony at Epson today. He said he just got your projector and is starting to look at it. He has several of the troublesome blu-rays on order. I'm really curious to know if you received your replacement projector and whether it also had bad cross talk. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## RyanChristopher

seplant said:


> RyanChristopher - I spoke with Tony at Epson today. He said he just got your projector and is starting to look at it. He has several of the troublesome blu-rays on order. I'm really curious to know if you received your replacement projector and whether it also had bad cross talk.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


I have not received my replacement yet. I was not able to do an advance replacement with Epson due to my shipping address and the billing address associated with my credit card being different. Fingers crossed that the replacement unit will ship today and I hope to have the new one by end of week. Will report back then.


----------



## thevenom

Anyone know if this is a good ceiling mount for the 5040?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0MLLJL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks


----------



## panman40

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've had the hw65 and the Epson, the hw65 auto Iris is silent in operation but can be Sen pumping, completely opposite the Epson can't be seen working ( imo) but is noisy, rapid tapping noises in quiet scenes of a movie render it unusable for myself and wife.


----------



## Evan201

For anyone interested in a shelf mount for their 5040 instead of mounting into a ceiling, this shelf is absolutely excellent for the 5040. Couldn't be a more perfect fit and very sturdy when bolted into my wall studs. Solid steel, one piece design, very robust. 
Ill try to add a picture to this post later tonight, but trust me, it's particularly awesome. 

https://www.amazon.com/Quam-WS20X20-Mount-Equipment-Shelf/dp/B00DZXCAAW


----------



## robc1976

thevenom said:


> Anyone know if this is a good ceiling mount for the 5040?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0MLLJL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Thanks


I used this and its perfect

https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRG-UNV-Precision-Projector-Universal/dp/B000TXNS6G


----------



## k3nnis

panman40 said:


> I've had the hw65 and the Epson, the hw65 auto Iris is silent in operation but can be Sen pumping, completely opposite the Epson can't be seen working ( imo) but is noisy, rapid tapping noises in quiet scenes of a movie render it unusable for myself and wife.




Ok thx. Between the 65 and Epson which had better blacks and overall picture quality?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JoeBoy73

Evan201 said:


> For anyone interested in a shelf mount for their 5040 instead of mounting into a ceiling, this shelf is absolutely excellent for the 5040. Couldn't be a more perfect fit and very sturdy when bolted into my wall studs. Solid steel, one piece design, very robust.
> Ill try to add a picture to this post later tonight, but trust me, it's particularly awesome.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Quam-WS20X20-Mount-Equipment-Shelf/dp/B00DZXCAAW



Awesome Evan! Any pics?


----------



## Evan201

JoeBoy73 said:


> Awesome Evan! Any pics?


Look for a post with an image of my setup at 6PM pacific time. It's really a perfect electronics shelf for the 5040. Holes for mounting are drilled out at standard wall stud distance. Was very easy for me to mount with only two lag bolts.


----------



## JoeBoy73

Evan201 said:


> Look for a post with an image of my setup at 6PM pacific time. It's really a perfect electronics shelf for the 5040. Holes for mounting are drilled out at standard wall stud distance. Was very easy for me to mount with only two lag bolts.


Sweet! I'm thinking of going with this PJ in my living room! I miss my old media room and my 70inch just isn't cutting it anymore...LOL!


----------



## Umar_Naseer

JoeBoy73 said:


> Awesome Evan! Any pics?


I assembled this from Home Depot parts. Will paint it when I paint the room.


----------



## Evan201

Umar_Naseer said:


> I assembled this from Home Depot parts. Will paint it when I paint the room.


Thats cool. Gotta love DIY. The shelf I posted about has bottom venting and front/back lips to make sure no slippage occurs. I live in earthquake country CA, so the vents on the bottom are cool if you want to run screws with washers up from the bottom into the projector for super secure mounting.


----------



## Umar_Naseer

Evan201 said:


> Thats cool. Gotta love DIY. The shelf I posted about has bottom venting and front/back lips to make sure no slippage occurs. I live in earthquake country CA, so the vents on the bottom are cool if you want to run screws with washers up from the bottom into the projector for super secure mounting.


Nice! Please post a picture once it's setup.


----------



## Evan201

Spec sheet for Quam 20x20 shelf if anyone is interested. No assembly required. Ships complete. 

I will take pictures of mine tonight. 

http://www.quamspeakers.com/filebin/product_spec_docs/spec-pdfs/WS20X20.pdf


----------



## Oledurt

Just putting this out there if you use harpervision settings, and own the Panasonic DMP UB900 UHD player. Set the dynamic contrast to -8 it makes the colors clip much later.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## zgraen3721

Really enjoying the 5040/Oppo 203 combo so far. Have to say the motion handling is pretty ****ty on this model. Had an 8700ub back in the day and don't remember it being this bad. Frame interpolation helps a bit, but once you go past low, its riddled with artifacts! 

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

thevenom said:


> Anyone know if this is a good ceiling mount for the 5040?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0MLLJL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Thanks


I have that mount and have no complaints.


----------



## Raffy87

terminal33 said:


> I have that mount and have no complaints.


I've had this same mount since the 5040 came out and it's worked just fine. My only complaint is that I can't seem to tighten the mount enough to stop the projector from moving slightly when I perform a firmware update and have to unplug and plug back in the power cord. Doesn't move the projector much but I find I need to re-position the picture to the screen each time. Not a huge deal with the motorized lens on the 5040 but one none the less. This is my first projector and mount so potentially I didn't tighten the mount properly... sure seems tight though or perhaps this is a common situation...


----------



## LFE Junkie

ok guys, i have a question that i can't find the answer to. I have a 6040ub that i got professionally calibrated this weekend. My oppo 203, Epson, and cabling all meet the criteria for HDR. However, everything is being routed in and out of my Emotiva XMC1 which does not support the hdmi 2.0a format. So this is my bottleneck. I was told that if i was to watch a HDR movie, since i won't get the proper signal through the processor, it would not produce an accurate picture. I had it calibrated for SDR, HDR, and 3D. Does this sound right?

I guess where i am getting at is if i play an hdr uhd disc, will it produce the same sdr picture as if it was not hdr content.


----------



## Evan201

LFE Junkie said:


> ok guys, i have a question that i can't find the answer to. I have a 6040ub that i got professionally calibrated this weekend. My oppo 203, Epson, and cabling all meet the criteria for HDR. However, everything is being routed in and out of my Emotiva XMC1 which does not support the hdmi 2.0a format. So this is my bottleneck. I was told that if i was to watch a HDR movie, since i won't get the proper signal through the processor, it would not produce an accurate picture. I had it calibrated for SDR, HDR, and 3D. Does this sound right?
> 
> I guess where i am getting at is if i play an hdr uhd disc, will it produce the same sdr picture as if it was not hdr content.


Holy cow that's an expensive receiver. Looks like that company offers an upgrade for HDCP 2.2 compliance found here: 

https://emotiva.com/products/pres-and-pros/hdmi-20-upgrade-board


----------



## Evan201

Oledurt said:


> Just putting this out there if you use harpervision settings, and own the Panasonic DMP UB900 UHD player. Set the dynamic contrast to -8 it makes the colors clip much later.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds cool! In your opinion, after harpervision, would there really be a benefit from selling my Philips BDP7501 to buy a UB900?


----------



## bommai

For those of you that ever got a new whole-unit replacement from Epson, do they send the new one in a new box? They promised me that I will be getting a new one since I have had the old one for just one week. Today I received the replacement unit. It looks like a new retail unit at first glance but as soon as I opened it I noticed a few things. The accessories box was rattling. The remote was not in its plastic bag. The outside of the box looks more beat up than the first one I received. I wish Epson would double box these. I also noticed that the bar code of the serial number on the replacement looks like it is stuck on a prior label. Is there a way for me to tell that this is a brand new unit and not a refurb?


----------



## robc1976

Evan201 said:


> Sounds cool! In your opinion, after harpervision, would there really be a benefit from selling my Philips BDP7501 to buy a UB900?


 wait! Harper vision with phillips? ~sigh~ just bought the phillips.....


----------



## zgraen3721

I wonder if the 6040/5040 Can be updated to work with the new HDR 10+ format that Samsung and Amazon are pimpin? Dynamic metadata with HDR10 would be sweet! Samsung said they'll be updating all their 2017 AND 2016 models with a firmware update that will allow the feature.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

Evan201 said:


> Sounds cool! In your opinion, after harpervision, would there really be a benefit from selling my Philips BDP7501 to buy a UB900?




No...unless you have money to burn.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

Evan201 said:


> Sounds cool! In your opinion, after harpervision, would there really be a benefit from selling my Philips BDP7501 to buy a UB900?





Oledurt said:


> No...unless you have money to burn.


Oledurt - Just wondering, are you using Harpervision settings in high lamp mode? Do you think the UB900 slider would be beneficial if using Harpervision settings in medium lamp mode?


----------



## Evan201

FOR ALL YOU SHELF MOUNT LOVERS. 

Quam 20x20 shelf is awesome. Amazon has it or buy it direct from Quam. 

image hosting free no registrationcertificity.com

upload a gifcertificity.com

post imagescertificity.com


----------



## inspector

Malt said:


> Hi, guys. I'm loving all these photos of the Epsons in action and I'm seriously considering buying one. I have one stumbling block - I currently use a 10M (32ft) High Speed HDMI cable to my Epson TW3200 with no problems but I'm not sure if this PJ will accept a cable that length for all 4K modes given the distance and bandwidth.
> 
> Is anyone using a similar length cable, or has one to try that can let me know, as I can't go shorter.
> 
> I'm only looking for real world tests, not theory, as I can't afford to make a mistake.
> 
> Thanks in advance if anyone is able to help.



I use a 40' Monoprice Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI Cable and it works PERFECT!!!


----------



## Waikis

Evan201 said:


> FOR ALL YOU SHELF MOUNT LOVERS.


Did they include wall brackets as well? 
Any recommendations for wood stud bracket?


----------



## bommai

Epson confirmed that my replacement projector is a new one. I guess I have to take their word. I hooked it up and no dust blob on this one. However, I have a panel color uniformity issue. I don't know if you can tell from the photo but projecting a white background from my Mac mini has a green hue on the left half of the screen and a red hue on the right half of the screen. Yikes. Definitely can see it in a white background.









Do I have to send this back again?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

Waikis said:


> Evan201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> FOR ALL YOU SHELF MOUNT LOVERS.
> 
> 
> 
> Did they include wall brackets as well?
> Any recommendations for wood stud bracket?
Click to expand...

I just put lag bolts with washers through the drywall into the studs. Done. The back has many pre drilled options.


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> Just putting this out there if you use harpervision settings, and own the Panasonic DMP UB900 UHD player. Set the dynamic contrast to -8 it makes the colors clip much later.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did this affect overall brightness at all, or just help the color clipping points?




robc1976 said:


> wait! Harper vision with phillips? ~sigh~ just bought the phillips.....


Yes, you can use my HarperVision Experience HDR on SDR settings on any HDR signal source and 4K Display, as long as you can manually put it in SDR mode while receiving an HDR signal (using menu settings or a Linker), and also put in the rest of the settings like the custom gamma. It was designed to be used on older SDR 4K displays/projectors that were released before HDR10 was really a thing or as commonplace as it is now to find. Mainly with the Epson LS10000 in mind.




bommai said:


> Epson confirmed that my replacement projector is a new one. I guess I have to take their word. I hooked it up and no dust blob on this one. However, I have a panel color uniformity issue. I don't know if you can tell from the photo but projecting a white background from my Mac mini has a green hue on the left half of the screen and a red hue on the right half of the screen. Yikes. Definitely can see it in a white background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I have to send this back again?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You can try to adjust Color Uniformity in the Epson. Info is on page 81 in the manual.


----------



## AMartin56

Holy smokes. I'm loving this 5040! Much better experience than my JVC 420 has given me these past few months believe it or not. Sure I notice the higher black level but this thing is no slouch overall. Seems very well​ rounded... Especially for the price. The motion isn't best in class (I still give that to Sony) but it's so much better than the JVC I had. I'm sure I'll find some warts eventually but man. Seems like an excellent value so far. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## AMartin56

Where do I find Harpervision? 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

AMartin56 said:


> Holy smokes. I'm loving this 5040! Much better experience than my JVC 420 has given me these past few months believe it or not. Sure I notice the higher black level but this thing is no slouch overall. Seems very well​ rounded... Especially for the price. The motion isn't best in class (I still give that to Sony) but it's so much better than the JVC I had. I'm sure I'll find some warts eventually but man. Seems like an excellent value so far.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk




Thanks for getting back to us. When you say Sony has better motion, are you turning on motion compensation or you have this switched off on both projectors? Also is the Epson anygood with sports?

Thanks,
K.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

AMartin56 said:


> Where do I find Harpervision?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


I'm right here man! 

Oh, you mean the settings, haha! Just click the link below my signature. 





AMartin56 said:


> Holy smokes. I'm loving this 5040! Much better experience than my JVC 420 has given me these past few months believe it or not. Sure I notice the higher black level but this thing is no slouch overall. Seems very well​ rounded... Especially for the price. The motion isn't best in class (I still give that to Sony) but it's so much better than the JVC I had. I'm sure I'll find some warts eventually but man. Seems like an excellent value so far.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk



I know right. I came from a Sony 675 and now also have a JVC RS600 and I'm amazed at how close they are. 

I think once you put in my settings and calibrate the basics like brightness contrast color etc then you'll see even better black and details. Put in The Martian UHD and there's a chapter
Towards the end that starts with the space ship flying by, after they've returned to pickup Matt Damon. I can't believe the image I get in that scene is from a $2,500 projector! 

It should be even better on the LS10000 I'm about to get and on the RS600 when
I'm done. I wish I could get the 675 back to try it in that one too! Maybe soon.


----------



## k3nnis

Dave Harper said:


> I'm right here man!
> 
> Oh, you mean the settings, haha! Just click the link below my signature.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know right. I came from a Sony 675 and now also have a JVC RS600 and I'm amazed at how close they are.
> 
> I think once you put in my settings and calibrate the basics like brightness contrast color etc then you'll see even better black and details. Put in The Martian UHD and there's a chapter
> Towards the end that starts with the space ship flying by, after they've returned to pickup Matt Damon. I can't believe the image I get in that scene is from a $2,500 projector!
> 
> It should be even better on the LS10000 I'm about to get and on the RS600 when
> I'm done. I wish I could get the 675 back to try it in that one too! Maybe soon.




Hi Dave,

Let me know when you have the ls10000 and how it compares to the 6040  I'm debating between the 2. If the ls10k is worth the extra money over the 6040.

Cheers,
K.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AMartin56

k3nnis said:


> Thanks for getting back to us. When you say Sony has better motion, are you turning on motion compensation or you have this switched off on both projectors? Also is the Epson anygood with sports?
> 
> Thanks,
> K.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well I'll have a 45ES in the house tomorrow. But from what I remember:

The Sony displayed fewer motion interpolation artifacts. The Epson has them but really only on real torture test scenes so far (like the beginning of X-Men Apocalypse).

On Low the Epson does seem to hitch a bit during pans on 1080p/24. But it's not awful. And it seems to go away on Standard (but with slightly more artifacts and more SOE).

On the JVC with everything off I found 1080p/24 to be unwatchable due to judder. I think it's very doable on the Epson though if you don't like Frame Interpolation.

I will say the JVC 42O has a more vibrant picture on HDR with it's defaults but I haven't researched any settings for the 5040 yet.so that may change. 

I certainly wouldn't recommend a 420 over this for an extra $2k unless you really need 4k/60 HDR etc. I imagine a 520 vs a 5040 might be a harder choice. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

k3nnis said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Let me know when you have the ls10000 and how it compares to the 6040  I'm debating between the 2. If the ls10k is worth the extra money over the 6040.
> 
> Cheers,
> K.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I should get the LS10K on Wednesday (thanks @Mike Garrett!).

Wait, isn't the 6040 about $3,995 MSRP? Is that one on sale too? You can get the LS10000 B-Stock from the above shout out dude in same price range, so what extra money are we talking about?


----------



## AMartin56

Dave Harper said:


> I'm right here man!
> 
> Oh, you mean the settings, haha! Just click the link below my signature.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know right. I came from a Sony 675 and now also have a JVC RS600 and I'm amazed at how close they are.
> 
> I think once you put in my settings and calibrate the basics like brightness contrast color etc then you'll see even better black and details. Put in The Martian UHD and there's a chapter
> Towards the end that starts with the space ship flying by, after they've returned to pickup Matt Damon. I can't believe the image I get in that scene is from a $2,500 projector!
> 
> It should be even better on the LS10000 I'm about to get and on the RS600 when
> I'm done. I wish I could get the 675 back to try it in that one too! Maybe soon.


This should definitely tide me over for awhile unless I find something terrible after further review tomorrow. When the 675 refreshes I might sell a pinball machine to stretch my budget for it but maybe not! 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

AMartin56 said:


> This should definitely tide me over for awhile unless I find something terrible after further review tomorrow. When the 675 refreshes I might sell a pinball machine to stretch my budget for it but maybe not!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk



You may want to. The 675 so far has been my all time favorite digital projector that I've ever _owned_.


----------



## AMartin56

Dave Harper said:


> You may want to. The 675 so far has been my all time favorite digital projector that I've ever _owned_.


Well I have one pinbsll machine I could get $4-5k for but I want Sony to add 4k FI and have another round of possible degradation counter measures before I spend that much. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

AMartin56 said:


> Well I'll have a 45ES in the house tomorrow. But from what I remember:
> 
> The Sony displayed fewer motion interpolation artifacts. The Epson has them but really only on real torture test scenes so far (like the beginning of X-Men Apocalypse).
> 
> On Low the Epson does seem to hitch a bit during pans on 1080p/24. But it's not awful. And it seems to go away on Standard (but with slightly more artifacts and more SOE).
> 
> On the JVC with everything off I found 1080p/24 to be unwatchable due to judder. I think it's very doable on the Epson though if you don't like Frame Interpolation.
> 
> I will say the JVC 42O has a more vibrant picture on HDR with it's defaults but I haven't researched any settings for the 5040 yet.so that may change.
> 
> I certainly wouldn't recommend a 420 over this for an extra $2k unless you really need 4k/60 HDR etc. I imagine a 520 vs a 5040 might be a harder choice.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk




Yep I don't like the SOE/FI. So hoping for good motion with no enhancements 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## k3nnis

Dave Harper said:


> I should get the LS10K on Wednesday (thanks @Mike Garrett!).
> 
> Wait, isn't the 6040 about $3,995 MSRP? Is that one on sale too? You can get the LS10000 B-Stock from the above shout out dude in same price range, so what extra money are we talking about?




Oh I'm in Australia so pricing is different. LS10k is like A$8000 here and 6040 is like A$4200

Half the price lol. Unless I import from US?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LFE Junkie

Evan201 said:


> Holy cow that's an expensive receiver. Looks like that company offers an upgrade for HDCP 2.2 compliance found here:
> 
> https://emotiva.com/products/pres-and-pros/hdmi-20-upgrade-board


My version came with the upgraded board


----------



## AMartin56

Dave Harper said:


> I'm right here man!
> 
> Oh, you mean the settings, haha! Just click the link below my signature.


Holy Moses!

I just installed Harpervision and it looks a LOT more like I remember the JVC looking with Planet Earth II UHD. Well done!

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

amartin56 said:


> holy moses!
> 
> I just installed harpervision and it looks a lot more like i remember the jvc looking with planet earth ii uhd. Well done!
> 
> Sent from my pixel using tapatalk



 

I just picked up my copy of Planet Earth II today from the PO Box, so I will have that to play with tonight!


----------



## akgolf

It saddens me that I have to wait for Harpervision. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

akgolf said:


> It saddens me that I have to wait for Harpervision.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


You guys friggin' crack me up! 

I sure wish more people would jump on this and start tweaking it with their own settings, a la' the way everyone is doing with the awesome custom gammas on the JVCs. I think we can really make this something even more amazing for those folks that didn't get an HDR capable 4K set. That was the main intention of this from the beginning, to get a full HDR signal onto an SDR 4K display. It just turned out, what appears to be, better than the darned stock HDR modes on those upgraded HDR displays too!  A nice bonus, I must say.


----------



## AMartin56

So watching Kingsman. Wanted to test the parachute scene because it's known for motion artifacts. 

I'm surprised by how favorably the image compares to the JVC 420 despite the native contrast differences. 
It's really very close IMO which surprises me.

Do you have to manually change the Harpervision settings under Signal when changing back to normal Blu-ray? Is there a way around that?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Hi Dave,

I have been away for more than 2 weeks n without Internet service. Just read your HarperVision setting today n all the raving result from users. However, I want to make sure it is for Epson 5040. Also, I am hooking it up directly with a OPPO 203 with no Preamp or receiver in between. Should I be aware of any specific setting on 203 since it seems your settings is more gear up for people using Panasonic player.

Thanks again for your help. Regards.


----------



## robc1976

Few pics of my setup


----------



## panman40

bommai said:


> Epson confirmed that my replacement projector is a new one. I guess I have to take their word. I hooked it up and no dust blob on this one. However, I have a panel color uniformity issue. I don't know if you can tell from the photo but projecting a white background from my Mac mini has a green hue on the left half of the screen and a red hue on the right half of the screen. Yikes. Definitely can see it in a white background.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do I have to send this back again?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I know in the uk Epson send out refurbs as replacement units, as Dave has said you can try adjusting in the screen uniformity but if it was me I would send that right back ASAP.


----------



## 3DMamper

Hi Owners,

Im really keen to get this projector for the 4k pixel shifting. Coming from a Sony HW40es.

I intend to play a lot of PS4 gaming. But im concerned that it only supports 4k HDR at 24p. 

Since its release has it had a firmware update or hardware update that allows 4k hdr at 60p?

Also ive read here some users have 3D ghosting issues and contacted epson. Has this issue been resolved?

My Sony HW40es had xtalk as well. But warming it up 20mins before mostly minimizes xtalk.

Thanks!


----------



## panman40

k3nnis said:


> Ok thx. Between the 65 and Epson which had better blacks and overall picture quality?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


For me the Sony had better black level which was backed up when I measured it, it's not night and say but enough to make very dark scenes with little APL noticably greyer on the Epson, I think native motion was a little better on Sony aswell.
That aside the overall picture performance on the Epson wins hands down, combined with the upscaling from my Panasonic ub700 player blu Rays look fantastic.


----------



## k3nnis

panman40 said:


> For me the Sony had better black level which was backed up when I measured it, it's not night and say but enough to make very dark scenes with little APL noticably greyer on the Epson, I think native motion was a little better on Sony aswell.
> 
> That aside the overall picture performance on the Epson wins hands down, combined with the upscaling from my Panasonic ub700 player blu Rays look fantastic.




Ok thanks 

65es is slightly more than the Epson 6040 here in Australia. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> Just putting this out there if you use harpervision settings, and own the Panasonic DMP UB900 UHD player. Set the dynamic contrast to -8 it makes the colors clip much later.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi, does that not then make the image back to looking to dark ?.


----------



## seplant

3DMamper said:


> Also ive read here some users have 3D ghosting issues and contacted epson. Has this issue been resolved?
> 
> Thanks!


Epson is investigating the 3D ghosting issue right now. They are getting units back from several owners to troubleshoot. No idea if it is a software or hardware issue or if it is isolated to a certain batch of units or if it is common to them all.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## bommai

panman40 said:


> I know in the uk Epson send out refurbs as replacement units, as Dave has said you can try adjusting in the screen uniformity but if it was me I would send that right back ASAP.




They send refurbs here too if the original projector was used for a while, but my original was only used for a few days before I actually noticed the dust blob. I am going to contact Epson again today. I still have to unmount the original and send that out and then set up and replacement for the replacement as well!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

AMartin56 said:


> So watching Kingsman. Wanted to test the parachute scene because it's known for motion artifacts.
> 
> I'm surprised by how favorably the image compares to the JVC 420 despite the native contrast differences.
> It's really very close IMO which surprises me.
> 
> Do you have to manually change the Harpervision settings under Signal when changing back to normal Blu-ray? Is there a way around that?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


I just select Natural Mode when I want to play other HD sources and have that calibrated for rec709 HD SDR. I only use digital cinema for uhd HDR bt2020 in SDR mode with custom gamma. 




ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I have been away for more than 2 weeks n without Internet service. Just read your HarperVision setting today n all the raving result from users. However, I want to make sure it is for Epson 5040. Also, I am hooking it up directly with a OPPO 203 with no Preamp or receiver in between. Should I be aware of any specific setting on 203 since it seems your settings is more gear up for people using Panasonic player.
> 
> Thanks again for your help. Regards.



Yes you can use it on any 4K display that you can put into SDR mode either manually or using a Linker, either SDR only or also HDR capable as this appears that it may be better than stock HDR settings on those display devices, like the 5040, etc. 

You can use any UHD player or streamer, with the caveats above. The UB900 is just a better choice overall since it also has the Dynamic Range Brightness slider adjustment for HDR, which you can also use to make the image brighter in any HDR mode and may be preferred over my settings. It's a personal preference either way.


----------



## AMartin56

So after spending more time with the 5040 I continue to be surprised by how good it looks compared to the 420.

Keep in mind that if it wasn't for the frame interpolation issues on the JVC I would generally be pleased with it. But I would expect it to blow the Epson away picture wise considering the price difference and so far I feel like it doesn't. I realize the 420 is a bit more future proof etc but not enough to matter to me right now. 

I also realize that there is a debate between the relative importance of on/off vs ANSI contrast but the Epson just looks better to me in mixed content that includes bright and dark areas. ProjectionDream.com compares the two and the ANSI difference is pretty significant. I assume this is contributing​ to what I'm seeing. 

I'm still looking forward to testing a 45ES (hopefully later today) to make my final motion comparison. I still think I'll like their frame interpolation the best. But hopefully not enough to give up the other benefits of the Epson. 

One comment on motion smoothing. It seems to more effective with 1080p Blu-ray if 4k enhancement is turn off. Which would make sense. I'm curious if anyone else is seeing that. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> Did this affect overall brightness at all, or just help the color clipping points?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you can use my HarperVision Experience HDR on SDR settings on any HDR signal source and 4K Display, as long as you can manually put it in SDR mode while receiving an HDR signal (using menu settings or a Linker), and also put in the rest of the settings like the custom gamma. It was designed to be used on older SDR 4K displays/projectors that were released before HDR10 was really a thing or as commonplace as it is now to find. Mainly with the Epson LS10000 in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can try to adjust Color Uniformity in the Epson. Info is on page 81 in the manual.




That is the beauty of that setting the brightness stays the same. It allows the colors to clip much later which is a good thing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Rob V

256 pages in this thread ... can anybody point me to the HarperVision details?


----------



## AMartin56

Rob V said:


> 256 pages in this thread ... can anybody point me to the HarperVision details?


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017


----------



## Rob V

AMartin56 said:


> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017


Thank you!


----------



## Dark Rider

Greetings all, hopefully I'll run into some old familiar posters here! My home theater recently got taken down by a lightning strike, and I've got an Epson 5040UB on order as the replacement for my Viewsonic Pro8100. I was an early adopter of the Pro8100, which gained a cult following after prices dropped substantially, and truthfully I would have kept it until a true 4K solution became reasonable. However, I'm excited to see how the Epson performs in my environment (have seen local demos), and what the 4K pixel shift can do. 


I did have a single question to get me started. Does the Epson 5040UB have a full 3D CMS for calibration, and if not, what is adjustable? I considered the 6040UB, which I think does have full ISF capabilities, but the pricing on 5040UB was too good to pass up.


----------



## AMartin56

Hue, saturation and brightness for RGBCYM.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## JoeBoy73

Evan201 said:


> FOR ALL YOU SHELF MOUNT LOVERS.
> 
> Quam 20x20 shelf is awesome. Amazon has it or buy it direct from Quam.
> 
> image hosting free no registrationcertificity.com
> 
> upload a gifcertificity.com
> 
> post imagescertificity.com


Looks Great! I like how it doesn't look a conventional shelf!


----------



## Evan201

JoeBoy73 said:


> Looks Great! I like how it doesn't look a conventional shelf!



Yea. Really nice pre-drilled, one piece design. Not too heavy either. Ships complete. No assembly required. 
I guess this company usually uses these electronics shelves for speakers, but I'll be damned if it isnt a great fit for the 5040/6040


----------



## RyanChristopher

My replacement 5040 just arrived. Hoping to set it up and do some testing tonight. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

In my previous post, I mentioned that my replacement Epson has a color uniformity issue. Today I talked to a customer service person and even sent her a photo. Photo does not bring out the nuances. I also spent sometime playing with the color uniformity adjustments in the menus. Does adjusting this affect picture quality in any way? I have adjusted the picture and now it looks better but not perfect. In fact there are some reds on the left now that were not there before. I also tried 3d and found that may be the crosstalk is reduced. Just may be. Dilemma. Have you all checked the color uniformity of your panels by displaying an all white screen? You have to use a computer or something that can display it. I don't know if I should just keep this projector with my color uniformity adjustments or take a chance with a third projector?

One photo is without adjustments and the other with.


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> That is the beauty of that setting the brightness stays the same. It allows the colors to clip much later which is a good thing.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I mean the midrange tone brightness that it raises and was designed to do, between the absolute black and white points. 




Rob V said:


> 256 pages in this thread ... can anybody point me to the HarperVision details?





AMartin56 said:


> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017



It's also linked to in the bottom of my signature.


----------



## DomNY

Question About Memory and Settings:

I just got my 5040UB last week. I have been reading but haven't found much on the memory settings. If I set up two memories for the one HDCP 2.2 input (one for 4k with HDR and one for 1080 Blu-Ray in SDR), are there any settings that will not be saved in memory and have to be changed each time I switch memory?

Regards,
Dom


----------



## aaranddeeman

AMartin56 said:


> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017


Could you please add the post #. Somehow this links takes me to the top of this same page.


----------



## Dave Harper

aaranddeeman said:


> Could you please add the post #. Somehow this links takes me to the top of this same page.



It takes me directly to my post with the settings. Maybe it's platform specific in how it reacts to the link? I tried it in Tapatalk on my phone. I've also clicked it and it went correctly within the forum's web page using Chrome on my laptop.


----------



## jbrazda

DomNY said:


> Question About Memory and Settings:
> 
> I just got my 5040UB last week. I have been reading but haven't found much on the memory settings. If I set up two memories for the one HDCP 2.2 input (one for 4k with HDR and one for 1080 Blu-Ray in SDR), are there any settings that will not be saved in memory and have to be changed each time I switch memory?
> 
> Regards,
> Dom


Yes, I believe there are. I don't have a list of them, But I know that some of the settings do not save. Maybe someone else will know all of them. I am just confirming that not all of them save and load to/from memory.


----------



## Evan201

jbrazda said:


> Yes, I believe there are. I don't have a list of them, But I know that some of the settings do not save. Maybe someone else will know all of them. I am just confirming that not all of them save and load to/from memory.


"Signal Menu" settings are fixed. Not saved. So if you Fix "auto (bright)" in Signal, and then want SDR fixed for another setting, it needs to be changed manually each time. 

All picture "mode" settings can be saved and recalled.


----------



## Deckardm

Does anyone happen to have any calibration settings available for a light controlled room?


----------



## DomNY

Evan201 said:


> "Signal Menu" settings are fixed. Not saved. So if you Fix "auto (bright)" in Signal, and then want SDR fixed for another setting, it needs to be changed manually each time.
> 
> All picture "mode" settings can be saved and recalled.


Thanks jbrazda and Evan201.

Regards,
Dom


----------



## seplant

DomNY said:


> Question About Memory and Settings:
> 
> I just got my 5040UB last week. I have been reading but haven't found much on the memory settings. If I set up two memories for the one HDCP 2.2 input (one for 4k with HDR and one for 1080 Blu-Ray in SDR), are there any settings that will not be saved in memory and have to be changed each time I switch memory?
> 
> Regards,
> Dom


Blanking adjustments are also not saved to memory.


----------



## jwhn

I now have my new 5040UB set up and running the HarperVision Experience. Looks great on HDR content. Thanks, Dave, for all the help.

Couple questions:

1) As others have mentioned, the high power consumption setting is a bit noisy when the unit is above head. I put it on medium and it mainly seems to darken the image a bit. I compensated by increasing the brightness to about 55. Now, Dave, I expect you to say that the high setting does more than increase the brightness and thus my correction is not the same. ; ) If so, what do you think is the best way to adjust the picture if it is run at the medium setting? I'm sure this question will keep coming up so if anyone has a better approach than mine, it would be great to understand it.

2) I am happy to continue to play with my own adjustments per the above, but are there any calibration disks you would recommend such as the Masciolo disk? If so, do you just play with the Gamma and other settings using these disks? I think something like this would help me more than "just play with the settings until it looks good to you" because I could see myself going in circles without some objectivity to the approach.

Also, for the record (as I've seen many questions on this topic), I am using a 60' HDMI cable with a signal booster and am having no issues running 4K resolution, 12 bit, Bt.2020 HDR. YMMV - but here is what I'm using if it helps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSL9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## AMartin56

jwhn said:


> I now have my new 5040UB set up and running the HarperVision Experience. Looks great on HDR content. Thanks, Dave, for all the help.
> 
> Couple questions:
> 
> 1) As others have mentioned, the high power consumption setting is a bit noisy when the unit is above head. I put it on medium and it mainly seems to darken the image a bit. I compensated by increasing the brightness to about 55. Now, Dave, I expect you to say that the high setting does more than increase the brightness and thus my correction is not the same. ; ) If so, what do you think is the best way to adjust the picture if it is run at the medium setting? I'm sure this question will keep coming up so if anyone has a better approach than mine, it would be great to understand it.
> 
> 2) I am happy to continue to play with my own adjustments per the above, but are there any calibration disks you would recommend such as the Masciolo disk? If so, do you just play with the Gamma and other settings using these disks? I think something like this would help me more than "just play with the settings until it looks good to you" because I could see myself going in circles without some objectivity to the approach.
> 
> Also, for the record (as I've seen many questions on this topic), I am using a 60' HDMI cable with a signal booster and am having no issues running 4K resolution, 12 bit, Bt.2020 HDR. YMMV - but here is what I'm using if it helps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSL9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The brightness control adjusts shadow detail. The contrast control sets the level of peak white. Both are set by eye with test patterns. You can get free disc images in the calibration forums here of something like Video Essentials or Disney WoW will have them. The latter has some excellent tutorials.


----------



## jwhn

AMartin56 said:


> The brightness control adjusts shadow detail. The contrast control sets the level of peak white. Both are set by eye with test patterns. You can get free disc images in the calibration forums here of something like Video Essentials or Disney WoW will have them. The latter has some excellent tutorials.


Okay thanks.

But what would the adjustments be to the HarperVision settings to get a similar result as the high consumption mode. I think my question was a bit more specific.

And thanks for the calibration info. I am aware of those and have used them. But are they optimal for calibrating HDR? If they are, then why did Marciolo create HDR specific test patterns? I have no idea...just asking the question...


----------



## AMartin56

jwhn said:


> Okay thanks.
> 
> But what would be adjustments be to the HarperVision settings to get a similar result as the high consumption mode. I think my question was a bit more specific.
> 
> And thanks for the calibration info. I am aware of those and have used them. But are they optimal for calibrating HDR? If they are, then why did Marciolo create HDR specific test patterns? I have no idea...just asking the question...


Sorry I misunderstood. 

IMO you need to run on high lamp for HDR. Unfortunately that's kinda of how it works. Even my soon to be returned JVC would pop into high lamp for HDR. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

AMartin56 said:


> Sorry I misunderstood.
> 
> IMO you need to run on high lamp for HDR. Unfortunately that's kinda of how it works. Even my soon to be returned JVC would pop into high lamp for HDR.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


The difference being the fan noise on the JVC in high lamp is equivalent to the Epson in medium lamp. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## AMartin56

seplant said:


> The difference being the fan noise on the JVC in high lamp is equivalent to the Epson in medium lamp.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


True. 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## jbrazda

I have found bright cinema to look quite good at 4k hdr with my Phillips. No adjustments made. Using the HDR 1 setting. I didn't really see any benefit to using harper vision over the bright cinema with hdr 1. Am I missing something? Is there a downside to bright cinema?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

seplant said:


> The difference being the fan noise on the JVC in high lamp is equivalent to the Epson in medium lamp.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Interesting. Bottom line for many is that high power is not an option to keep a happy marriage or for other reasons. ; )

So while it may not be optimal - I think providing the best possible adjusted "HarperVision" setting for medium power would be valued by many in the forum. I just put brightness up a bit. But I'm sure more experienced people can provide a better option. ; )


----------



## seplant

jwhn said:


> Interesting. Bottom line for many is that high power is not an option to keep a happy marriage or for other reasons. ; )
> 
> So while it may not be optimal - I think providing the best possible adjusted "HarperVision" setting for medium power would be valued by many in the forum. I just put brightness up a bit. But I'm sure more experienced people can provide a better option. ; )


That's why I was wondering if Harpervision settings on medium lamp in combination with the Panasonic UB900 HDR brightness slider would be a good solution. Can anyone comment on this?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Hi Dave,

Thanks for your speedy reply. I did try the Harpervision settings last nite n it produces excellent pictures. Except I need to tone down the Color saturation a bit to 75, otherwise the opening scene of 'LUCY' will look too yellowish. As you said, your settings will give us an foundation to work with, n we still need to fine tune it , since every system is different.

Just curious why you have to set Lamp to High for this setting ? Since the projector is about 3-4ft. above my head n it induces some noises when at High. Is there a way to go around it if I set it to Medium ?






"Yes you can use it on any 4K display that you can put into SDR mode either manually or using a Linker, either SDR only or also HDR capable as this appears that it may be better than stock HDR settings on those display devices, like the 5040, etc. 

You can use any UHD player or streamer, with the caveats above. The UB900 is just a better choice overall since it also has the Dynamic Range Brightness slider adjustment for HDR, which you can also use to make the image brighter in any HDR mode and may be preferred over my settings. It's a personal preference either way.[/QUOTE] "


----------



## Oledurt

jbrazda said:


> I have found bright cinema to look quite good at 4k hdr with my Phillips. No adjustments made. Using the HDR 1 setting. I didn't really see any benefit to using harper vision over the bright cinema with hdr 1. Am I missing something? Is there a downside to bright cinema?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




You lose the P3 colorspace.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jbrazda

Oledurt said:


> You lose the P3 colorspace.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Is that noticeable to the eye? Or does it have to be measured?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

jbrazda said:


> Is that noticeable to the eye? Or does it have to be measured?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




that really depends on the material. It is all in its infancy as hdr and bt2020 progress it will be vastly surperior. Right now with current technology...maybe not so much.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> I now have my new 5040UB set up and running the HarperVision Experience. Looks great on HDR content. Thanks, Dave, for all the help.
> 
> Couple questions:
> 
> 1) As others have mentioned, the high power consumption setting is a bit noisy when the unit is above head. I put it on medium and it mainly seems to darken the image a bit. I compensated by increasing the brightness to about 55. Now, Dave, I expect you to say that the high setting does more than increase the brightness and thus my correction is not the same. ; ) If so, what do you think is the best way to adjust the picture if it is run at the medium setting? I'm sure this question will keep coming up so if anyone has a better approach than mine, it would be great to understand it.
> 
> 2) I am happy to continue to play with my own adjustments per the above, but are there any calibration disks you would recommend such as the Masciolo disk? If so, do you just play with the Gamma and other settings using these disks? I think something like this would help me more than "just play with the settings until it looks good to you" because I could see myself going in circles without some objectivity to the approach.
> 
> Also, for the record (as I've seen many questions on this topic), I am using a 60' HDMI cable with a signal booster and am having no issues running 4K resolution, 12 bit, Bt.2020 HDR. YMMV - but here is what I'm using if it helps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSL9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


What I recommend is to use the Panasonic UB900 UHD bluray player and its HDR Brightness slider, to increase the mid tone perceived brightness when in Med lamp mode, as mentioned. I will try to play with this later though, but maybe others can report too.

If you don't have a UB900 and use another player, using Med instead of high fan really just comes down to deciding if the tradeoff of less fan noise is worth having a dimmer overall picture. The contrast sliders really only change what's in between the black and peak white levels, so with med fan you're reducing the peak white and increasing black level performance, kind of sliding the whole range down together if you will. Changing the slider won't magically make your projector throw more peak lumens, it will just give more light to those mid tone/APL scenes to make them more visible. Be careful not to increase the black level or clip peak whites too.

If you want to calibrate 4K HDR WCG, then pretty much the only affordable set of patterns I have seen is the R. Masciola ones, unless you want to pay substantially more for a hardware pattern generator, or a "pro" USB stick full of them (...and that's not all it's full of, haha!)  For about $30 and a USB flash drive, you can't beat RM's solution.



jbrazda said:


> I have found bright cinema to look quite good at 4k hdr with my Phillips. No adjustments made. Using the HDR 1 setting. I didn't really see any benefit to using harper vision over the bright cinema with hdr 1. Am I missing something? Is there a downside to bright cinema?





Oledurt said:


> You lose the P3 colorspace.


Yes, Oledurt is correct, although his custom gamma using Bright Cinema is amazing too, and may be a great solution for those not wanting to use High Fan with the HV settings. Of course, my settings are *SO HOT* that they need the extra cooling!  



seplant said:


> That's why I was wondering if Harpervision settings on medium lamp in combination with the Panasonic UB900 HDR brightness slider would be a good solution. Can anyone comment on this?


I think it would be the best solution. See my comment above to a similar question.




jbrazda said:


> Is that noticeable to the eye? Or does it have to be measured?


It can be measured, but you should be able to see the color difference by eye as well. The 5040 can go out pretty wide on the P3 gamut, even without the filter.

BT2020 Wide Color Gamut is said to be an even more pleasing upgrade than 4K itself, in the whole 4K HDR WCG revolution that's happening now, along with HDR. It's mainly on projectors with limited peak lumens compared to flat panels. This is why many projector owners, before custom gammas and now my HV settings, were using HDFury Devices like the Integral and Linker to strip HDR (making the source do an HDR to SDR tone mapping) but still send the bt2020 wide color gamut signal......so I would say yes, it can be pretty important. Only your eyes can really be the judge though. When I was using a Sony VW675ES here, one of its drawbacks was that it only natively did about 87% of P3 color, mainly because they decided against using a filter in the light path which as we are seeing can be a detriment to brightness with many claiming their image is "too dim" when in HDR modes. This isn't too bad with the JVCs, as theirs only dimmed it about 12% with the filter in the path.

This is one major reason where my HV HDR on SDR settings now come in handy too, as being in SDR mode for projection, it really increases the brightness too and makes Digital Cinema Mode on the 5040 usable. Being able to send and use the full HDR signal instead of stripping it is great in HV settings mode also.


----------



## robc1976

Tonight I wanted to save some screen positions so thru up test pattern and got it lined up, then thru in a 16:9 film, adjusted it with "zoom & lens shift" then saved lens position and renamed it. Then thru in a 2:39 film the made that fit by zooming in and fitting to screen ect & saved me over ththat...my buddy is.saying I am not supposed to zoom in from 16:9 to 2:39 even though its 2:39 format. I don't see any other way...rather here this from somebody here that knows this projector


----------



## Evan201

Can someone help me so I don't feel like my novice brain is going crazy here. 

Try these settings out with The Revenant UHD (DARK MOVIE) through Philips player and let me know if I'm crazy for thinking this is the best I have ever seen this movie look after applying these settings. Most of the idea for the Fixed SDR and Gamma curve came from Harper and Oledurt. I don't use these settings on every movie, but this movie and others that are darker seem to really pop. I can't imagine wanting to run the lamp on High with these settings. Iphone 7 Pics. 

image searchcertificity.com

hosting imagecertificity.com

upload gifcertificity.com

screen capture toolcertificity.com

how to use print screencertificity.com

GAMMA 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,32,32
image hostingcertificity.com
GAMMA 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,32,32

image hosting site over 5mbcertificity.com


----------



## robc1976

Anybody know what this blue blob is on my screen? Doesn't seem to be in movies at all.


----------



## philipbtz

robc1976 said:


> Anybody know what this blue blob is on my screen? Doesn't seem to be in movies at all.


Almost certain that that is a dust blob.


----------



## coaxy

philipbtz said:


> Almost certain that that is a dust blob.


I agree looks almost exactly like the one I had a couple monts ago, I had to sent it to Epson to fix it under warranty.


----------



## bommai

Would anyone you 5040 owners be willing to project a pure white image and looking at it and posting a photo of it here. I want to see if the panel color uniformity issue I have is common or not. I am torn between getting it replaced and just holding on to it if others have similar looking issues. I had posted some pics in this thread showing my color variations. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

coaxy said:


> I agree looks almost exactly like the one I had a couple monts ago, I had to sent it to Epson to fix it under warranty.


 just lovely, is there a way to fix this without sending it back? If it doesn't show up in movies will it hurt anything? Really don't eant my theater down.


----------



## bommai

robc1976 said:


> just lovely, is there a way to fix this without sending it back? If it doesn't show up in movies will it hurt anything? Really don't eant my theater down.



I don't know what Epson' policy is, but they fedex overnighted me a projector and then I sent the original one back. So no down time. Mine was brand new though. 

It is better to get it replaced. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

bommai said:


> I don't know what Epson' policy is, but they fedex overnighted me a projector and then I sent the original one back. So no down time. Mine was brand new though.
> 
> It is better to get it replaced.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine is 4 days old.


----------



## bommai

robc1976 said:


> Mine is 4 days old.




Call them at Phone Number:
(562) 276-4394
Hours:
Mon.- Fri. 6 AM - 8 PM (PT) | Sat. 7 AM - 4 PM (PT)

And explain the situation and tell them yours is brand new and ask for a new replacement. You have to give a credit card for authorization. Then they FedEx you a new one. Put the old one back in the box the replacement came in and send it back. I recommend you test the replacement one first before mounting it and before sending the original one back. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

bommai said:


> Call them at Phone Number:
> (562) 276-4394
> Hours:
> Mon.- Fri. 6 AM - 8 PM (PT) | Sat. 7 AM - 4 PM (PT)
> 
> And explain the situation and tell them yours is brand new and ask for a new replacement. You have to give a credit card for authorization. Then they FedEx you a new one. Put the old one back in the box the replacement came in and send it back. I recommend you test the replacement one first before mounting it and before sending the original one back.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 awesome! Thank you. Does it matter I bought it thru the "sound room" locally?


----------



## panman40

All these dust blobs are rather concerning. Keep trying to put it to the back of my mind..


----------



## panman40

Evan201 said:


> Can someone help me so I don't feel like my novice brain is going crazy here.
> 
> Try these settings out with The Revenant UHD (DARK MOVIE) through Philips player and let me know if I'm crazy for thinking this is the best I have ever seen this movie look after applying these settings. Most of the idea for the Fixed SDR and Gamma curve came from Harper and Oledurt. I don't use these settings on every movie, but this movie and others that are darker seem to really pop. I can't imagine wanting to run the lamp on High with these settings. Iphone 7 Pics.
> 
> image searchcertificity.com
> 
> hosting imagecertificity.com
> 
> upload gifcertificity.com
> 
> screen capture toolcertificity.com
> 
> how to use print screencertificity.com
> 
> GAMMA 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,32,32
> image hostingcertificity.com
> GAMMA 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,32,32
> 
> image hosting site over 5mbcertificity.com


Just noticed your using colour 75 with bright cinema  that would look crazy on mine!, I thought that was for Daves Digital cinema mode only ?, or maybe I'm wrong.


----------



## philipbtz

Seems crazy to me as well. And in those pictures the colors look way off as well as loss of blacklevel.


----------



## DomNY

*Auto (BRIGHT) ?*

Greetings,

I just upgraded to firmware version 1.09. I see on the menu, and read, that there is now an Auto (BRIGHT) Dynamic Range Setting. Can someone tell me what this does? Way too many results using the search.

Regards,
Dom


----------



## Azekecse

DomNY said:


> Greetings,
> 
> I just upgraded to firmware version 1.09. I see on the menu, and read, that there is now an Auto (BRIGHT) Dynamic Range Setting. Can someone tell me what this does? Way too many results using the search.
> 
> Regards,
> Dom


I believe in Auto Bright mode uses HDR 1 when a HDR signal is detected, while Bright automatically switches to HDR 2 when the signal is detected. Someone else can elaborate or correct.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Evan201

panman40 said:


> Just noticed your using colour 75 with bright cinema  that would look crazy on mine!, I thought that was for Daves Digital cinema mode only ?, or maybe I'm wrong.


I compared this to Daves complete Harpervision Digital Cinema settings and the Reds and Greens were very similar. The lower brightness and contrast seems to take care of the washed out Fixed SDR with high gamma curve. I REALLY like it. Try it out. 

I also have a Cinegrey 5d which may be why I cant stomach the dimness of Digital Cinema even after all the Harpervision settings applied. I also don't like to run High Lamp if I can help it for lamp longevity.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> All these dust blobs are rather concerning. Keep trying to put it to the back of my mind..


I noticed very few are 6040ub, I may upgrade


----------



## DomNY

Robc1976,

Unless the light path is sealed, dust can always be an issue. However, from my experience, unless you see them in the first few hours (came from factory), or your room is REALLY dusty, they aren't a problem if the filter is kept clean. Also, don't remove the filter if the AC or Forced Air heat is blowing out the vents. I don't believe the 6040 has a sealed light path either. I had the old Sony VPL-VW10ht and the first two come from the dealer with blobs. #3 had no blobs and remained that way for over 4 yrs. before I sold it.

Regards,
Dom


----------



## Evan201

Can anyone recommend the best way to clean/clear the dust filter? Should you use dust off or just tap it out?


----------



## DomNY

Evan201,

Manual says do both, but no compressed air, as it may leave a residue that can dry and get into the light path. From what I have seen, the filters run about $30.00. So, not to bad just to replace if the filter doesn't look right when done cleaning. I used to gently vacuum the filter on my JVC-RS1 while it was in place and just replaced it once a year. Also, if ceiling mounted, the bottom of these things are dust magnets and it doesn't hurt to vacuum the ceiling side once in a while. I bought a tiny 1 gallon shop vac with a super soft brush just for that purpose. Oh and yes, I AM anal retentive about such things.................









Regards,
Dom


----------



## talon95

Yea the dust blob on my 5030UB showed up early too. I suspect it was already in the chassis and just made it's way to one of the LCD's. Epson will swap you out during the warranty period. I chose not too only because it was barely visible on a totally black image and the projector is excellent otherwise. I didn't want to risk getting one with a different problem, poorer alignment, poorer focus, etc...


----------



## Evan201

I tested mine for dust blobs and color problems with a youtube "all white" video. 

I saw nothing improper with mine. Looks great and even.


----------



## robc1976

Evan201 said:


> I tested mine for dust blobs and color problems with a youtube "all white" video.
> 
> I saw nothing improper with mine. Looks great and even.


I have a blob only, well it seems with projector on but no material, with movie on I haven't noticed it


----------



## tigerfan33

Evan201 said:


> I tested mine for dust blobs and color problems with a youtube "all white" video.
> 
> I saw nothing improper with mine. Looks great and even.




Dust blobs usually show on dark scenes.


----------



## robc1976

DomNY said:


> Robc1976,
> 
> Unless the light path is sealed, dust can always be an issue. However, from my experience, unless you see them in the first few hours (came from factory), or your room is REALLY dusty, they aren't a problem if the filter is kept clean. Also, don't remove the filter if the AC or Forced Air heat is blowing out the vents. I don't believe the 6040 has a sealed light path either. I had the old Sony VPL-VW10ht and the first two come from the dealer with blobs. #3 had no blobs and remained that way for over 4 yrs. before I sold it.
> 
> Regards,
> Dom


room has sealed Hvac system, external hvac no duct hardly and room has 2 air purifiers. Room is virtually dust free.


----------



## Evan201

tigerfan33 said:


> Dust blobs usually show on dark scenes.



OH gotchya. I'll try and all black image tonight and see if anything shows up.


----------



## Deckardm

Deckardm said:


> Does anyone happen to have any calibration settings available for a light controlled room?


Erm... anyone?


----------



## Deckardm

Also... I tried using this Monoprice cable that some other forum members have had success with... Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI? Cable, 45ft, but get no signal.

https://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/12737

Is there another cost effective option?


----------



## DomNY

robc1976 said:


> room has sealed Hvac system, external hvac no duct hardly and room has 2 air purifiers. Room is virtually dust free.


robc1976,
Then you are good to go with the 5040UB.

Regards,
Dom


----------



## robc1976

DomNY said:


> robc1976,
> Then you are good to go with the 5040UB.
> 
> Regards,
> Dom


 They are overnighting new projector without question. Great service


----------



## presenter

shepdog said:


> *Projector Reviews Review*
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/eps...-cinema-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Projector Central Review*
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review.htm
> 
> 
> *ProjectorReviews.com review
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/Umou4EKohC0*


Greetings! When we posted this highlight reel on our site and youtube, it was intended to be just that - a very short, fun piece, touting the highlights. For more serious discussion of the 5040UB (I have one mounted in my theater at the moment - comparing with with Epson's LS10500 which arrived last week and was just calibrated), I recommend the full online review, linked to above, and here: http://www.projectorreviews.com//ep...cinema-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review// For those video oriented, there are two video reviews - a short one, and longer version. Both are based on the online review. Here's a link to the longer, more in-depth video, although it still contains far less info than the online review: http://www.projectorreviews.com/review-tv/epson-home-cinema-5040ub-projector-summary/ 

PS we also have a comparison on our site to the JVC RS400 (since replaced), which I consider the logical next step up for many folks. Thanks! -art!


----------



## presenter

Deckardm said:


> Erm... anyone?


Hi, try our review - the settings for 1080/REC709 are very good. This was early HDR (when the review was done), and as most realize, HDR has been a challenge, but it was a real mess when the Samsung started shipping (and was the only 4K UHD HDR capable player available (complete with limitations). 
We're still getting the hang of HDR. (We just calibrated the Epson LS10500 this week, and have two 4K UHD DLP projectors (BenQ and Vivitek) arriving in the next two weeks for review. (And we've tackled one Sony 4K since the early days.)
http://www.projectorreviews.com/eps...-cinema-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review/

By the time we finish with all three reviews, I hope to really have 4K calibration with HDR producing great results (or rather Eric my calibrator should). I've been watching the calibrated LS10500 since yesterday - definitely doing color with HDR better than our 5040UB/6040UB did in the original review. thanks! -art


----------



## Deckardm

presenter said:


> Deckardm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Erm... anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, try our review - the settings for 1080/REC709 are very good. This was early HDR, and as most realize, HDR has been a challenge, but it was a real mess when the Samsung started shipping (and was the only 4K UHD HDR capable player available (complete with limitations): We're still getting the hang of HDR. (We just calibrated the Epson LS10500 this week, and have two 4K UHD DLP projectors (BenQ and Vivitek) arriving in the next two weeks for review.
> 
> By the time we finish with all three, I hope to really have 4K calibration with HDR producing great results (or rather Eric my calibrator should). I've been watching the calibrated LS10500 since yesterday - definitely doing color with HDR better than our 5040UB/6040UB did in the original review.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Are you referring to the settings found on this page? 

http://www.projectorreviews.com/eps...ration-settings-and-image-enhancement-by-mode

It also appears that advance calibration settings found on that site are only available to paying members?

http://www.projectorreviews.com/eps...40ub-home-cinema-5040ub-advanced-calibration/


----------



## Bob Sorel

From the review at ProjectorReviews.com:


> The Home Cinema 5040UB – $2999, and Pro Cinema 6040UB – $3999, are virtually identical except for price, the case color, and that the “Pro” version comes with a cable cover, a spare lamp, plus an extra year of warranty and replacement program, for the higher price point.


Don't forget the mount, the presence of ISF modes, and most importantly (a deal breaker for me), is the lack of anamorphic lens support in the 5040ub.

I don't know if reviewers don't think that that is a significant difference or if they simply don't notice that it is missing...


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave Harper said:


> It takes me directly to my post with the settings. Maybe it's platform specific in how it reacts to the link? I tried it in Tapatalk on my phone. I've also clicked it and it went correctly within the forum's web page using Chrome on my laptop.


I know. It happens with many of us. The post # would be really helpful.

Edit : Is it post # 7220? If yes, I am assuming the white balance controls are at it's default, so are the CMS. Because when I tried to apply those settings over and above my HCFR calibrated DigitalCinema, it tend to blow the highlights.


----------



## aaranddeeman

bommai said:


> Would anyone you 5040 owners be willing to project a pure white image and looking at it and posting a photo of it here. I want to see if the panel color uniformity issue I have is common or not. I am torn between getting it replaced and just holding on to it if others have similar looking issues. I had posted some pics in this thread showing my color variations.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


There is a color uniformity setting for 8 levels and 9 locations each. Try playing with it to adjust the uniformity.


----------



## inspector

Deckardm said:


> Also... I tried using this Monoprice cable that some other forum members have had success with... Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI? Cable, 45ft, but get no signal.
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/12737
> 
> Is there another cost effective option?



My 6040 is hung from the ceiling. My player is a Sammy K8500 to a Onkyo 608 (2010) with HDMI 1.4.


When I first plugged in my Monoprice Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI cable, I had plugged it into the wrong HDMI port (2) on the Epson and got no picture. It must be plugged into the HDMI 1 port and got a beautiful picture.


Tell us how it turns out.


Inspector


----------



## Deckardm

inspector said:


> Deckardm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also... I tried using this Monoprice cable that some other forum members have had success with... Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI? Cable, 45ft, but get no signal.
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/12737
> 
> Is there another cost effective option?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 6040 is hung from the ceiling. My player is a Sammy K8500 to a Onkyo 608 (2010) with HDMI 1.4.
> 
> 
> When I first plugged in my Monoprice Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI cable, I had plugged it into the wrong HDMI port (2) on the Epson and got no picture. It must be plugged into the HDMI 1 port and got a beautiful picture.
> 
> 
> Tell us how it turns out.
> 
> 
> Inspector
Click to expand...

Thanks. I had tried different ports and sources... turns out that active hdmi cables are directional... just had it going the wrong way. The $24 45' monoprice cable I linked works fine.


----------



## DomNY

*Sony X800 Settings and 5040UB*

For the Sony UBP-X800:
Should I turn 4K Up Scaling to off and let the 5040 do the 4K Enhancement for 1080P blu-ray or does it make no difference? 
Also, should Deep Color be Auto or Off? I thought it was for HDR but I am not sure about much anymore..

Regards,
Dom


----------



## robc1976

Deckardm said:


> Thanks. I had tried different ports and sources... turns out that active hdmi cables are directional... just had it going the wrong way. The $24 45' monoprice cable I linked works fine.


I am running same cable, only doing 1080P until receiver gets here, are you running 4K thru that 45ft cable?


----------



## inspector

Deckardm said:


> Thanks. I had tried different ports and sources... turns out that active hdmi cables are directional... just had it going the wrong way. The $24 45' monoprice cable I linked works fine.



Crap, I forget to tell you that...sorry.


----------



## inspector

robc1976 said:


> I am running same cable, only doing 1080P until receiver gets here, are you running 4K thru that 45ft cable?



Yes, we're getting 4K thru it!


----------



## robc1976

inspector said:


> Yes, we're getting 4K thru it!


Fantastic!


----------



## Deckardm

robc1976 said:


> Deckardm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I had tried different ports and sources... turns out that active hdmi cables are directional... just had it going the wrong way. The $24 45' monoprice cable I linked works fine.
> 
> 
> 
> I am running same cable, only doing 1080P until receiver gets here, are you running 4K thru that 45ft cable?
Click to expand...

When I select info, it says 4k.

Funny thing, though. Not entirely certain how it works since I just hooked it up, but... 

When I select 4k on the Roku, info tab on the 6040ub shows 4k (and the 4k enhancement is greyed out as it's supposed to be). But when I select 1080p on the Roku, the projector enables 4k enhancement as an option (working as intended). However, in this latter mode when 4k enhancement is manually enabled, info still shows 1080. Isn't the projector supposed to upscale to 4k in this configuration?


----------



## Deckardm

robc1976 said:


> I am running same cable, only doing 1080P until receiver gets here, are you running 4K thru that 45ft cable?


Using an older Marantz SR8002, which sounds amazing but lacks 4k. So I'm simply running a direct hdmi cable to the projector, then setting the Marantz output to digital and running a toslink to the receiver from the Roku for sound.


----------



## Deckardm

Bob Sorel said:


> From the review at ProjectorReviews.com:
> Don't forget the mount, the presence of ISF modes, and most importantly (a deal breaker for me), is the lack of anamorphic lens support in the 5040ub.
> 
> I don't know if reviewers don't think that that is a significant difference or if they simply don't notice that it is missing...


Didn't know about the anamorphic lens, but checking prices they seem to cost more than the 6040ub. Does it make a very big difference over simply resizing the picture?

I can attest... for those who haven't actually seen it, the Chief mount that's included is stellar. It's easy to see why it's so well regarded. The cost is well justified.


----------



## gene4ht

Deckardm said:


> I can attest... for those who haven't actually seen it, the Chief mount that's included is stellar. It's easy to see why it's so well regarded. *The cost is well justified.*


+1

Totally agree! I've been using Chief mounts for years. IMO...can't be beat for sturdiness, ridigity, adjustment flexibility, and most importantly...ability to easily and quickly deinstall and reinstall while maintaining perfect alignment and registration.


----------



## Bob Sorel

> Didn't know about the anamorphic lens, but checking prices they seem to cost more than the 6040ub. Does it make a very big difference over simply resizing the picture?


I'm not making a judgment on the value of any particular feature (though anamorphic support is VERY important on my list, as I already own an ISCO III lens), but rather to point out that most every review I have read has been inaccurate in listing the differences between the 2 models. I am not trying to single Art out for this, as EVERY review I have read has been wrong in this regard. Each person can judge for himself which features are important and which are not, but he needs an accurate list of those differences in order to make an informed decision.


----------



## inspector

Deckardm said:


> Didn't know about the anamorphic lens, but checking prices they seem to cost more than the 6040ub. Does it make a very big difference over simply resizing the picture?
> 
> I can attest... for those who haven't actually seen it, the Chief mount that's included is stellar. It's easy to see why it's so well regarded. The cost is well justified.





I called Chief about buying a ceiling mount directly from them and here's what they said. Epson only buys one part of the mount from chief, and the other parts from other sellers. They hobble it together and that's what you get with the 6040.


----------



## Deckardm

inspector said:


> Deckardm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't know about the anamorphic lens, but checking prices they seem to cost more than the 6040ub. Does it make a very big difference over simply resizing the picture?
> 
> I can attest... for those who haven't actually seen it, the Chief mount that's included is stellar. It's easy to see why it's so well regarded. The cost is well justified.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called Chief about buying a ceiling mount directly from them and here's what they said. Epson only buys one part of the mount from chief, and the other parts from other sellers. They hobble it together and that's what you get with the 6040.
Click to expand...

Chief likely makes the most important part: the mount itself... which is the heart and soul of it since it contains the pitch, roll, and yaw adjustments. The adapter plates and tubes are likely outsourced.

Haven't owned anything other than the Chief, but imo based on seeing detailed pictures of the competition it's in a whole different league.

Maybe just as important as build quality is tech support. I telephoned Chief with a question about my angled ceiling and the support was as good as it gets. No waiting... and with a knowledgeable rep that's actually fluent in English. Personally, I place great value on this.


----------



## robc1976

Deckardm said:


> Using an older Marantz SR8002, which sounds amazing but lacks 4k. So I'm simply running a direct hdmi cable to the projector, then setting the Marantz output to digital and running a toslink to the receiver from the Roku for sound.


I am using a denon 4311ci right now Denon X7200WA on the way


----------



## dholmes54

I wonder if a dust cover would help with dust blobs,but I guess some of the dust comes from using the projector,it sucking in air and the filter not catching the dust


----------



## adamhw

I appreciate very much all the helpful info in this very long thread
I still am not clear as to 4k hdr compatibilty for dvd AND streaming(amazon/netflix).
Is there one device that works for both?
From epson it 5040ube shows that it accepts 4k hdr at 24hz 10 bit color at 4:4:4 and converts to 4:2:2, where the non-wireless 5040ub only does 4:2:2. 
Is the ube more compatible than the ub?
is there a downverter that would make either more compatible?
I have a xbox ones s that transmits 4k hdr at 24hz 10 bit color at 4:4:4, will that work on ube?
TY


----------



## gene4ht

inspector said:


> I called Chief about buying a ceiling mount directly from them and here's what they said. Epson only buys one part of the mount from chief, and the other parts from other sellers. They hobble it together and that's what you get with the 6040.


I can assure you, all the necessary components are available from Chief. The two primary pieces are the RPA mount and the SLB custom/adapter or bracket/plate...and if needed a third piece...the extension tube. It may very well be that *Epson only buys* and provides the RPA and indeed the SLB can be obtained from various dealers. As I discovered and was informed by Chief, it is to our advantage to purchase from a dealer as Chief cannot extend dealer pricing/discounts to individuals. It is in fact cheaper to buy from a dealer.



Deckardm said:


> Chief likely makes the most important part: the mount itself... which is the heart and soul of it since it contains the pitch, roll, and yaw adjustments. The adapter plates and tubes are likely outsourced.


Having spoken to an informed technical advisor from Chief, I am under the impression that Chief manufacturers all of their components.

RPA = mounts directly to ceiling or attached to an extension tube and contains the pitch, roll, and yaw adjustment...there is an original version and a newer version but both do the same thing.

SLB = the custom bracket or plate that mates perfectly (no spider legs) to your particular projector and attaches to the RPA piece...for the 5040/6040, it is an SLB357.

Below are pictures of the SLB357 attached to my 5040....

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48956017


----------



## jbrazda

presenter said:


> Hi, try our review - the settings for 1080/REC709 are very good. This was early HDR (when the review was done), and as most realize, HDR has been a challenge, but it was a real mess when the Samsung started shipping (and was the only 4K UHD HDR capable player available (complete with limitations).
> 
> We're still getting the hang of HDR. (We just calibrated the Epson LS10500 this week, and have two 4K UHD DLP projectors (BenQ and Vivitek) arriving in the next two weeks for review. (And we've tackled one Sony 4K since the early days.)
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/eps...-cinema-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review/
> 
> 
> 
> By the time we finish with all three reviews, I hope to really have 4K calibration with HDR producing great results (or rather Eric my calibrator should). I've been watching the calibrated LS10500 since yesterday - definitely doing color with HDR better than our 5040UB/6040UB did in the original review. thanks! -art




I would love to try your settings, however, your site says they are only available to people that pay?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Deckardm

gene4ht said:


> Deckardm said:
> 
> 
> 
> I can attest... for those who haven't actually seen it, the Chief mount that's included is stellar. It's easy to see why it's so well regarded. *The cost is well justified.*
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> Totally agree! I've been using Chief mounts for years. IMO...can't be beat for sturdiness, ridigity, adjustment flexibility, and most importantly...ability to easily and quickly deinstall and reinstall while maintaining perfect alignment and registration.
Click to expand...

Good point. I forgot to mention that. It has a locking clamp with a key (actually two) that acts as a quick release for the projector. A smart design.


----------



## cdnmiggy

Does anyone have a short list of movies that I should sample while demo'ing a 6040. I'd like to see the HDR capability so particularly scenes that show me the HDR darkness issue.


----------



## jwhn

adamhw said:


> I appreciate very much all the helpful info in this very long thread
> I still am not clear as to 4k hdr compatibilty for dvd AND streaming(amazon/netflix).
> Is there one device that works for both?
> From epson it 5040ube shows that it accepts 4k hdr at 24hz 10 bit color at 4:4:4 and converts to 4:2:2, where the non-wireless 5040ub only does 4:2:2.
> Is the ube more compatible than the ub?
> is there a downverter that would make either more compatible?
> I have a xbox ones s that transmits 4k hdr at 24hz 10 bit color at 4:4:4, will that work on ube?
> TY


I just got the Samsung 4K Blu ray player and it works for HDR with disks and Netflix / Amazon. It doesn't work for YouTube HDR because it doesn't convert to 24p. But I don't really care as much about YouTube being in HDR. I also have an XBox One S and it does not work.


----------



## Dave Harper

aaranddeeman said:


> I know. It happens with many of us. The post # would be really helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit : Is it post # 7220? If yes, I am assuming the white balance controls are at it's default, so are the CMS. Because when I tried to apply those settings over and above my HCFR calibrated DigitalCinema, it tend to blow the highlights.


Yes, I believe when I posted that I hadn't done the greyscale yet and I am still waiting to have more "lab time" to fully set CMS while in that mode. 

I just got an LS10000 and my time for the near future will be spent on that machine. So far, as discussed awhile ago with a member that has one, the HarperVision settings don't transcribe directly over to that unit, so I am in the process of finding good settings, if I can. It's proving more difficult because this machine was designed as an SDR projector, while the 5040 included HDR which I think gives more range and capabilities, even when SDR mode is selected. 


The long sync times with the Linker in the chain aren't helping much either! It's driving me nuts actually, as much of my valuable time last night was spent staring at a blank screen with the exception of a "HDMI 1: No Signal" message! 




cdnmiggy said:


> Does anyone have a short list of movies that I should sample while demo'ing a 6040. I'd like to see the HDR capability so particularly scenes that show me the HDR darkness issue.



My list is very short:

1. The Revenant 

The end.


----------



## Azekecse

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deckardm View Post
I can attest... for those who haven't actually seen it, the Chief mount that's included is stellar. It's easy to see why it's so well regarded. The cost is well justified.
+1

Totally agree! I've been using Chief mounts for years. IMO...can't be beat for sturdiness, ridigity, adjustment flexibility, and most importantly...ability to easily and quickly deinstall and reinstall while maintaining perfect alignment and registration.



Deckardm said:


> Good point. I forgot to mention that. It has a locking clamp with a key (actually two) that acts as a quick release for the projector. A smart design.



_I concur, this is a great mount, I wish I knew just how important a quality mount was with my previous JVC projector, which I sold, the buyer replaced that ceiling mount, because I informed him he should get a better mount, based on my new experience...

BTW, the key and locking clamp befuddled me for about 5 min, until I realized I had to unlock the clamp with the key :laugh:

Peace and blessings,

Azeke_


----------



## MississippiMan

Deckardm said:


> Chief likely makes the most important part: the mount itself... which is the heart and soul of it since it contains the pitch, roll, and yaw adjustments. The adapter plates and tubes are likely outsourced.
> .


Not even close....as the following clearly states......again. 



gene4ht said:


> I can assure you, all the necessary components are available from Chief. The two primary pieces are the RPA mount and the SLB custom/adapter or bracket/plate...and if needed a third piece...the extension tube. It may very well be that *Epson only buys* and provides the RPA and indeed the SLB can be obtained from various dealers. As I discovered and was informed by Chief, it is to our advantage to purchase from a dealer as Chief cannot extend dealer pricing/discounts to individuals. It is in fact cheaper to buy from a dealer.


I know this is a very long Thread...and not everyone can do effective searches on AVS for specific Topics, but as recently as last February I posted the exact referenced Part number for the Dedicated Cheif RPA 367 mount, along with a best source for a best price. Projector People.* 
Find the Post here:*
(....and BTW....a RPA 357 is a complete Kit. ) 












> Having spoken to an informed technical advisor from Chief, I am under the impression that Chief manufacturers all of their components.


Who ever heard of such a thing? 



> RPA = mounts directly to ceiling or attached to an extension tube and contains the pitch, roll, and yaw adjustment...there is an original version and a newer version but both do the same thing.
> 
> SLB = the custom bracket or plate that mates perfectly (no spider legs) to your particular projector and attaches to the RPA piece...for the 5040/6040, it is an SLB357.
> 
> Below are pictures of the SLB357 attached to my 5040....
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48956017


........and I responded then, back in *December*:

At the time of Gene's December post, Chief had not as of yet made available the RPA 357 Kit.....just the SLB 357 Plate. 6040's got the SLB 357, but with that Chief also included the upgraded RPA Mount with Knob Controlled Pitch & Yaw. (...Much like the Peerless...)

For gudness sake....let's not see anymore posts stating that Chief...a majot Mounting Solution Mfg... outsources components. 

Rather...over the years it has always been Epson tinkering with various Mount Mfg to supply a Mount with it's "Pro" line (Dealers Only)

Kinda heresy to mention it on this Thread, but similar issues remain with people not realizing there is a dedicated Chief RPA mount for the big 'ol JVCs

So very, very sad to see people trying to use a Flea-Bay or Amazon mount on such large, expensive PJs.

Pinch a penney, hoping to save a pound...watch your projector hit the ground!


----------



## Deckardm

^ The mount that comes with the 6040ub is the Chief CMH4500. This might be a change, or it could be that a stand alone compatible mount they sell separately has a different model number.


----------



## Deckardm

Thought this Roku screen saver turned out pretty. It's not fully calibrated, but shows the potential of the projector.

Added: a pic from Empire of the Sun.


----------



## ayrton

BTW, the key and locking clamp befuddled me for about 5 min, until I realized I had to unlock the clamp with the key :laugh:

Ditto here!!


----------



## gene4ht

MississippiMan said:


> So very, very sad to see people trying to use a Flea-Bay or Amazon mount on such large, expensive PJs.
> 
> Pinch a penney, hoping to save a pound...watch your projector hit the ground!


Can we get a big "AMEN!"


----------



## darkangelism

Quick video of the chief mounting hardware


----------



## Sweetmeat

Hello all.

I currently have a Sony HW50ES from 3 - 4 years ago, and I'm thinking about buying an Epson 6040 or a JVC RS400/RS420.

I just learned from the RS420 thread about a vertical banding issue that exists across all of their recent projectors. I'm wondering if there's some major flaw with the 6040 that I should be aware of. I just started my research yesterday, so I don't know much about either projector, but I need to decide tomorrow which one I'm going to buy.

I'd appreciate any comments on the pros/cons of the Epson compared to the JVC's.

Thanks!


----------



## bommai

Today, my chief 4500 mount arrived today. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Sweetmeat said:


> Hello all.
> 
> 
> 
> I currently have a Sony HW50ES from 3 - 4 years ago, and I'm thinking about buying an Epson 6040 or a JVC RS400/RS420.
> 
> 
> 
> I just learned from the RS420 thread about a vertical banding issue that exists across all of their recent projectors. I'm wondering if there's some major flaw with the 6040 that I should be aware of. I just started my research yesterday, so I don't know much about either projector, but I need to decide tomorrow which one I'm going to buy.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd appreciate any comments on the pros/cons of the Epson compared to the JVC's.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!



All I can think of right now is some ghosting issues in 3D and the hdmi input limited to 10.2Gbps which can be an issue with some game consoles like the Xbox One S.


----------



## Sweetmeat

Dave Harper said:


> All I can think of right now is some ghosting issues in 3D and the hdmi input limited to 10.2Gbps which can be an issue with some game consoles like the Xbox One S.




Thank you for your response. Does the HDMI issue exist with the Nvidia Shield Pro or Apple TV 4? 

For the ghosting issue, has Epson acknowledged it and committed to fixing it? Is it a software or hardware issue?

Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cdnmiggy

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, I believe when I posted that I hadn't done the greyscale yet and I am still waiting to have more "lab time" to fully set CMS while in that mode.
> 
> I just got an LS10000 and my time for the near future will be spent on that machine. So far, as discussed awhile ago with a member that has one, the HarperVision settings don't transcribe directly over to that unit, so I am in the process of finding good settings, if I can. It's proving more difficult because this machine was designed as an SDR projector, while the 5040 included HDR which I think gives more range and capabilities, even when SDR mode is selected.
> 
> 
> The long sync times with the Linker in the chain aren't helping much either! It's driving me nuts actually, as much of my valuable time last night was spent staring at a blank screen with the exception of a "HDMI 1: No Signal" message!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My list is very short:
> 
> 1. The Revenant
> 
> The end.


Thanks for the list Dave. I will check it out. So with the HDR darkness issue does that push us to use a white screen with higher gain like the studiotek 130 instead of a firehawk g4? I know there are other considerations for screens but if the epson like other projectors are too dark perhaps a white screen would help.


----------



## ac388

Hey Dave,

After watching your HarperVision for 2 nites n more UHD discs, I really start to appreciate your settings even more. However, I did make 2 changes n not sure if it will destroy the beauty of your settings ...

1) Increasing the Brightness to 50 instead of 46, which gave me a bit more lumen on movies like 'The Revenant' n 'Batman vs Superman', but not so much on 'Planet Earth 2' n 'Lucy'. 

2) Switching off 'Auto Iris', since I can see its opening n closing on a lot of indoor to outdoor scene, even when it is on High Speed as you recommended.

Await your comment on above. Thanks again on your help on this !!!


----------



## schmidtwi

DomNY said:


> For the Sony UBP-X800:
> Should I turn 4K Up Scaling to off and let the 5040 do the 4K Enhancement for 1080P blu-ray or does it make no difference?
> Also, should Deep Color be Auto or Off? I thought it was for HDR but I am not sure about much anymore..
> 
> Regards,
> Dom






4k upscaling preference is a personal choice, try both and see what you like. Mine is set to Auto1, as I like the X800 upscaling. YMMV. 

Deep color should be set to Auto to enable 10bit or 12bit (see page 21 in the manual).


.


----------



## seplant

Sweetmeat said:


> Thank you for your response. Does the HDMI issue exist with the Nvidia Shield Pro or Apple TV 4?
> 
> For the ghosting issue, has Epson acknowledged it and committed to fixing it? Is it a software or hardware issue?
> 
> Thanks again.



There is a dedicated thread on the Epson 3D issue here. Several owners have returned their projectors to Epson for their engineers to troubleshoot the issue. I spoke with Epson a few days ago about the status. They are trying to procure some of the movies that have seemed to be most troublesome (Rogue One being one of them). They seem committed to trying to reproduce the issue and fix it if possible. No indication if it is firmware or hardware, but most likely hardware. It is also possible that the problem is isolated to a bad batch of projectors, as the owners who returned their projectors for troubleshooting got new projectors from Epson, and at least one owner reports the new unit working better. Mine has the problem but it seems to vary from title to title and even between viewings of the same title.


----------



## DomNY

schmidtwi said:


> 4k upscaling preference is a personal choice, try both and see what you like. Mine is set to Auto1, as I like the X800 upscaling. YMMV.
> 
> Deep color should be set to Auto to enable 10bit or 12bit (see page 21 in the manual).
> 
> 
> .


Thanks Schmidtwi.


----------



## robc1976

Curious as to what color mode you guys liked out of the box not calibrated? I prefer "natural". Anybody have some settings for a dark room?


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> Curious as to what color mode you guys liked out of the box not calibrated? I prefer "natural". Anybody have some settings for a dark room?


All depends on your screen, I have a 106" 16:9 1 gain white screen and for TV/Blu Ray use my settings below,

Pic mode Natural,
Manual Iris -20,
Superwhite Off,
Auto Iris Off,
Brightness 51
Contrast 42
Colour 50,
Tint 50
Sharpness 6,
Image enhancement 2 or 3,
Gamma 0,


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> All depends on your screen, I have a 106" 16:9 1 gain white screen and for TV/Blu Ray use my settings below,
> 
> Pic mode Natural,
> Manual Iris -20,
> Superwhite Off,
> Auto Iris Off,
> Brightness 51
> Contrast 42
> Colour 50,
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 6,
> Image enhancement 2 or 3,
> Gamma 0,


 same screen, 138" 2:35 in a complete dark room with black walls, is your room dark? 

Thank you!


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> All depends on your screen, I have a 106" 16:9 1 gain white screen and for TV/Blu Ray use my settings below,
> 
> Pic mode Natural,
> Manual Iris -20,
> Superwhite Off,
> Auto Iris Off,
> Brightness 51
> Contrast 42
> Colour 50,
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 6,
> Image enhancement 2 or 3,
> Gamma 0,


a bit to dark for me on natural but this is not 4K only 1080P until Monday when my receiver arrived. I set it to bright cinema, looks a lot better than before. What do you set "power consumption" to.


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> a bit to dark for me on natural but this is not 4K only 1080P until Monday when my receiver arrived. I set it to bright cinema, looks a lot better than before. What do you set "power consumption" to.


Eco lamp, your screen is bigger than mine albeit scope so you probably need more light, I'm getting 13ftl measured off the screen with those settings, i use them for general TV and 1080p blu ray.

Bright cinema is useful for HDR but for SDR the gamma is pretty skewed last time i ran measurements.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Eco lamp, your screen is bigger than mine albeit scope so you probably need more light, I'm getting 13ftl measured off the screen with those settings, i use them for general TV and 1080p blu ray.
> 
> Bright cinema is useful for HDR but for SDR the gamma is upretty skewed last time i ran measurements.


So your your settings plus medium power? That may give me light?


----------



## Dave2sb

Has anyone had any luck converting hdr to sdr on uhd Blu Rays? I'm wanting to turn off hdr while keeping rec2020. Has anyone with the epson 5040ub done this? If so, how did it look? I know the oppo uhd player allows you to strip medadata but don't really wanna drop $600 on a player. Has anyone tried using the hdfury linker to do this? I currently have the Phillips uhd player and thought about getting the hdfury and trying that, but was wondering if this is hard to do. Anyone who has tried this please share your results. Did the image look better with hdr off? I find keeping it in bright cinema in hdr1 to look blown out. But if I turn hdr off I lose rec2020! Please help......


----------



## MississippiMan

darkangelism said:


> Quick video of the chief mounting hardware


Kinda halarious the Poster of that Video showed the SLB plate upside down.

All of my 5040 installs use a different Ceiling Plate....the Peerless ACC570. It's more sturdy that the Chief "X" mount, and offers more "Footing compression" against the Ceiling.
(BTW...there are actually 4 Holes, and they are more widely spaced than the "X" version.)










Costs less too. ($20.00)

As stated before, Chief includes what they want to include, and certainly a Peerless product isn't among them.

For me, a cosmetic approach is just as important as a sturdy one...almost. 

I try to make my Drop Pipes exit a Ceiling directly, and any Ceiling Plate resides above or within the Ceiling Joists.Sometimes one must get a bit ambitious, if indeed a bit inventive. And knowing how to do Drywall refinishing can make a big difference. 

I've been used to mounting JVCs and Panny 8000s, so size and weight issues have always been at the forefront. So I do what I gotta do.

Here are some diagrams showing varied methods of supporting Projectors "Through a Ceiling"
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1781161&d=1479691992
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1781137&d=1479691992
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1781145&d=1479691992
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1781145&d=1479691992

A couple shots of installations....one 5040ub (I show a Peerless UNV Mount though...adapted to a SLB357 )










..........and a Panny 8000, on a Sloped Ceiling no less...










I've done at least 3 more 5040s (...and 2 JVCs) since these images were taken, and every one through a Ceiling. I myself use Schedule 40 PVC Pipe and Couplings for easier work-ability and sizing / lengthening. There are no concerns as far as strength, the use of Steel Nipple Pipes is IMO redundant. (...but I can see how they can seem more reassuring...  )

But in closing, since the Chief RPA 357 Kit became available, "there can be only one" worth considering. And a best source is Projector People. Ask for my man Kirk (Ext: 2002) and tell him MMan sent'cha. He will do you a "Best Deal" on both the RPA 357 and the Peerless ACC570. 

Gaur-wren-teed


----------



## seplant

Dave2sb said:


> Has anyone had any luck converting hdr to sdr on uhd Blu Rays? I'm wanting to turn off hdr while keeping rec2020. Has anyone with the epson 5040ub done this? If so, how did it look? I know the oppo uhd player allows you to strip medadata but don't really wanna drop $600 on a player. Has anyone tried using the hdfury linker to do this? I currently have the Phillips uhd player and thought about getting the hdfury and trying that, but was wondering if this is hard to do. Anyone who has tried this please share your results. Did the image look better with hdr off? I find keeping it in bright cinema in hdr1 to look blown out. But if I turn hdr off I lose rec2020! Please help......


Yes, a Linker will strip HDR and retain the wide color gamut, but you might want to try Dave Harper's settings ("Harpervision"), which force SDR mode on the HDR signal and apparently looks really awesome (still don't have a UHD player myself to try it). See numerous posts in this thread from folks that have tried it and were amazed.


----------



## jbrazda

Dave2sb said:


> Has anyone had any luck converting hdr to sdr on uhd Blu Rays? I'm wanting to turn off hdr while keeping rec2020. Has anyone with the epson 5040ub done this? If so, how did it look? I know the oppo uhd player allows you to strip medadata but don't really wanna drop $600 on a player. Has anyone tried using the hdfury linker to do this? I currently have the Phillips uhd player and thought about getting the hdfury and trying that, but was wondering if this is hard to do. Anyone who has tried this please share your results. Did the image look better with hdr off? I find keeping it in bright cinema in hdr1 to look blown out. But if I turn hdr off I lose rec2020! Please help......




Can't you just change the dynamic range setting in the 5040 to sdr?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Did I read here that since the Epsons fan stops running when you turn it off that you guys run it on high lamp mode before shutting down


----------



## vantage78

Dave Harper said:


> All I can think of right now is some ghosting issues in 3D and the hdmi input limited to 10.2Gbps which can be an issue with some game consoles like the Xbox One S.


Hi Dave, I thought the Epson 5040ub was HDMI 2.0 compliant, thus making able to support >10.2 Gbps?


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> So your your settings plus medium power? That may give me light?


Might be better to open the iris more instead of extra noise. I run mine fully closed.


----------



## Evan201

dholmes54 said:


> Did I read here that since the Epsons fan stops running when you turn it off that you guys run it on high lamp mode before shutting down


I run "high altitude" mode 10 - 15 minutes prior to shutting down if I've been running the lamp on High for a couple hours on a UHD movie. Epson tells me this won't hurt anything.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Might be better to open the iris more instead of extra noise. I run mine fully closed.


I am very new to this lol! So to open the iris (your settings have it at -20) I go less negative? -15 or -10? What do you mean by fully closed? Don't your settings have it at -20? 

I will say bright cinema looks good on xbox


----------



## Dave Harper

ac388 said:


> Hey Dave,
> 
> After watching your HarperVision for 2 nites n more UHD discs, I really start to appreciate your settings even more. However, I did make 2 changes n not sure if it will destroy the beauty of your settings ...
> 
> 1) Increasing the Brightness to 50 instead of 46, which gave me a bit more lumen on movies like 'The Revenant' n 'Batman vs Superman', but not so much on 'Planet Earth 2' n 'Lucy'.
> 
> 2) Switching off 'Auto Iris', since I can see its opening n closing on a lot of indoor to outdoor scene, even when it is on High Speed as you recommended.
> 
> Await your comment on above. Thanks again on your help on this !!!


Thanks for the kind words and the settings tips! This is exactly what I wanted, lots of feedback and enhancements and personal settings that work better in our differing environments. 






vantage78 said:


> Hi Dave, I thought the Epson 5040ub was HDMI 2.0 compliant, thus making able to support >10.2 Gbps?


Which the spec says it can do higher, the Epson only has a chip capable of 10.2Gbps max. So the limitation is its hardware, not the actual spec. 





Sweetmeat said:


> Thank you for your response. Does the HDMI issue exist with the Nvidia Shield Pro or Apple TV 4?
> 
> For the ghosting issue, has Epson acknowledged it and committed to fixing it? Is it a software or hardware issue?
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think you can set the Shield to 24p output if I'm not mistaken? If so, do that for movies. The issue is more being able to send and display 4K 60P HDR signals at 10 bit, not so much as which source to use, other than making sure it has the output modes you want that can be displayed on the 5040. The highest that a 10.2 Gbps chip can accept is 4K 60p 4:2:0 8 bit. 





cdnmiggy said:


> Thanks for the list Dave. I will check it out. So with the HDR darkness issue does that push us to use a white screen with higher gain like the studiotek 130 instead of a firehawk g4? I know there are other considerations for screens but if the epson like other projectors are too dark perhaps a white screen would help.


Thankfully the Epsons have a lot of brightness, so your screen choice is more dependent on environment and what characteristics you like. Grey screens were mainly developed when digital were a new thing and they didn't have very good black levels compared to CRTs, but they did have very high brightness due to lamps instead of CRT tubes which could only be driven so hard. In this day and age grey screens aren't so important with these high contrast digitals. 

I personally like a white screen with a little gain, like my Stewart StudioTek 130 1.3 gain screen because it helps some with lower lumen digitals yet doesn't overpower when using a brighter one like the 5040, plus you can always clamp down the iris, lower the lamp power, etc. to get less light when using a nominal gain screen, but you can't magically make more once the projector is maxed out and you have a less than 1 gain screen. 

Of course now the big thing is ALR screens that reject ambient light coming from all sides except directly in front where the projector will be. 

With HDR I say nominal to high gain (but not too high to avoid shimmer and sparkles, unless you like that) white, white, white!





jbrazda said:


> Can't you just change the dynamic range setting in the 5040 to sdr?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



You can, if you want to use my HarperVision settings mentioned and linked a few posts up, to compensate. But just changing the projector's mode isn't going to stop the source from sending what its set to, which is HDR. If you just change the TV's settings then you have a mismatch. 

I don't know how old you are but think of the old 480i CRT TVs and the different TV standards around the world. If you had a TV that could do multiple standards and you send it a PAL TV signal and you set the TV to NTSC mode, it wouldn't decode or display the PAL signal properly and the picture would look very wrong, if you got one at all, because their signal characteristics are very different. (50 vs 60 Hz, Color sub-carrier, bandwidth, etc.). You have to match the TV mode with the same type of signal that you're receiving.


----------



## seplant

jbrazda said:


> Can't you just change the dynamic range setting in the 5040 to sdr?


No, that loses HDR and the wide color gamut. He wants to strip the HDR flag but retain the wide color gamut. Linker does that.

EDIT: My bad! Forcing SDR in the projector settings does NOT lose the wide color gamut. However, if someone truly wants to strip the HDR and retain only the wide color gamut, the projector itself can't do that. A linker or similar external device is needed to do that.


----------



## Duddits

Which UHD player is the best to get with the 5040 besides Oppo? Does the Xbox one S work?


----------



## Evan201

seplant said:


> No, that loses HDR and the wide color gamut. He wants to strip the HDR flag but retain the wide color gamut. Linker does that.


Are you sure you lose WCG when selecting SDR in signal and fixing BT2020 in color mode? Seems to look excellent to me especially on Batman V Superman, Revenant, and X-Men Futures Past UHD.

So back to this question. With the Philips 7501 all standard settings and the Epson signal menu fixed on SDR and BT2020, will I need a linker/integral to preserve the best BT2020 space coming from the Philips? 

UB900 plus Linker seems to be the best HDR to SDR conversion for BT2020, but that rounds out to about $800 in gear. YIKES. I'd like to use my Philips player and Epson to convert HDR to SDR and still preserve the most color.


----------



## Dave2sb

The link for the Harper settings just takes me back to this page. Could someone please repost the setting or tell what page to find them? Thanks so much for the help!


----------



## bommai

I hope third time is the charm. I called Epson again today and they have setup a replacement for me and I will get it on Tuesday. My current unit (which is my first replacement) has bad color uniformity issue. It gets worse in dynamic mode. Yikes. Could not fix it with Color uniformity adjustments. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## adamhw

adamhw said:


> I appreciate very much all the helpful info in this very long thread
> I still am not clear as to 4k hdr compatibilty for dvd AND streaming(amazon/netflix).
> Is there one device that works for both?
> From epson it 5040ube shows that it accepts 4k hdr at 24hz 10 bit color at 4:4:4 and converts to 4:2:2, where the non-wireless 5040ub only does 4:2:2.
> Is the ube more compatible than the ub?
> is there a downverter that would make either more compatible?
> I have a xbox ones s that transmits 4k hdr at 24hz 10 bit color at 4:4:4, will that work on ube?
> TY


Finally got some new info from epson. 
Also someone reported the Samsung working for DVD, Netflix, amazon, but not YouTube. 


Subject
Epson Email Technical Support

Discussion Thread
Response Via Email (Tony C)	04/28/2017 04:47 PM
Hi Adam,

We did a quick test and verified with our engineer's testing notes, you are correct that the 5040UBe with the WirelessHD unit is able to internally convert the signal from the Xbox 1s from a UHD 4K HDR movie (The Martian) to a signal that the projector auto recognizes as HDR.

In the Xbox settings we had to use 12-bit (36bit), This signal is processed at 4:2:2 10-bit but comes through as HDR on the projector side.

With the same setup on a HC 5040UB using a direct HDMI Cable, it see a BT.2020 signal, but it recognized as SDR, not HDR. 

Hope this clears it up. Epson Home Theater Product Management has reached out to Microsoft to see if compatibility can be improved on the Xbox side, but so far we have not seen any such updates. On the projector side this compatibility cannot be improved.


Thanks for your patience and understanding in this matter.

Very Best Regards
Tony C.
Epson
Customer By Email (Adam Wiener)	04/26/2017 05:13 AM
The 5040ube shows that it accepts 4k hdr at 24hz 10 bit color at 4:4:4, the same as the Xbox one s. Where the non wireless 5040ub only does 4:2:2. 
Does that mean the ube 4k hdr is compatible with the Xbox, but the ub is not???


----------



## robc1976

bommai said:


> I hope third time is the charm. I called Epson again today and they have setup a replacement for me and I will get it on Tuesday. My current unit (which is my first replacement) has bad color uniformity issue. It gets worse in dynamic mode. Yikes. Could not fix it with Color uniformity adjustments.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I got my replacement in a day...very prompt service.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave2sb said:


> The link for the Harper settings just takes me back to this page. Could someone please repost the setting or tell what page to find them? Thanks so much for the help!


Post #7220


----------



## bommai

robc1976 said:


> I got my replacement in a day...very prompt service.




Yes. Very prompt. I just have bad timing. I called them after shipping cutoff and so they can't ship until Monday. 

How is your replacement unit? How is your color uniformity? You can use a white video in you tube or hook up a pc with white background. While regular video mode showed a problem with color uniformity it became worse when I switched to dynamic. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Deckardm

Was toying around with various settings, and found that HDR1 setting with non HDR content really fouled up the image making it too dark and washed out. Will give it a try again when I have some bona fide HDR content. 

Anyway, discovered this hdmi video range setting buried in the menu, and wondering how that should be set. Normal mode seems to look the same as auto with 1080p content, while expanded mode brightens everything up but washes it out. Can anyone chime in on this feature?


----------



## bommai

Anyone know how much my old Epson 1080UB is worth? It works well and comes with remote. Someone offered $150. That seems very low. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Deckardm

Though not fully calibrated, I think I have the colors dialed in pretty good. Here are some pics (taken from my phone) of 1080p content streamed from my PC. From The Last Kingdom, season two. The phone pics don't do it justice. Absolutely amazing. 

Two days on, very happy with the purchase so far.


----------



## robc1976

Deckardm said:


> Though not fully calibrated, I think I have the colors dialed in pretty good. Here are some pics (taken from my phone) of 1080p content streamed from my PC. From The Last Kingdom, season two. The phone pics don't do it justice. Absolutely amazing.
> 
> Two days on, very happy with the purchase so far.


 mind sharing your settings? This in a dark room?


----------



## Deckardm

robc1976 said:


> Deckardm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Though not fully calibrated, I think I have the colors dialed in pretty good. Here are some pics (taken from my phone) of 1080p content streamed from my PC. From The Last Kingdom, season two. The phone pics don't do it justice. Absolutely amazing.
> 
> Two days on, very happy with the purchase so far.
> 
> 
> 
> mind sharing your settings? This in a dark room?
Click to expand...

Sure. Dark room. I can't take credit, as these were shared by forum member aaranddeeman. The only difference is I haven't changed any gamma settings because it's confusing and I haven't figured it out yet.

Scroll up a little bit and you'll see a doc file (desktop browser only, as mobile browsers don't show it). I tried to upload it but avsforum won't permit.


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> I am very new to this lol! So to open the iris (your settings have it at -20) I go less negative? -15 or -10? What do you mean by fully closed? Don't your settings have it at -20?
> 
> I will say bright cinema looks good on xbox


Yep -10 being 50% open, 0 is fully open. You can also up contrast in natural mode to around 48 before clipping occurs which will make it brighter.
If you like bright cinema mode though might aswell just run with that.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Yep -10 being 50% open, 0 is fully open. You can also up contrast in natural mode to around 48 before clipping occurs which will make it brighter.
> If you like bright cinema mode though might aswell just run with that.


 that was on a video have game on Xbox but your settings in natural look more accurate. I will try these new settings for sure. I get my 4K receiver Monday, will these settings work in 4K? Also, does it matter how many hours are on projector? I just got replacement due to dust blob.

Really appreciate all this great info.


----------



## robc1976

bommai said:


> Yes. Very prompt. I just have bad timing. I called them after shipping cutoff and so they can't ship until Monday.
> 
> How is your replacement unit? How is your color uniformity? You can use a white video in you tube or hook up a pc with white background. While regular video mode showed a problem with color uniformity it became worse when I switched to dynamic.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 installing in morning, will update for sure.


----------



## robc1976

Deckardm said:


> Sure. Dark room. I can't take credit, as these were shared by forum member aaranddeeman. The only difference is I haven't changed any gamma settings because it's confusing and I haven't figured it out yet.
> 
> Scroll up a little bit and you'll see a doc file (desktop browser only, as mobile browsers don't show it). I tried to upload it but avsforum won't permit.


so in that file you didn't mess with gamma 2.2 or 2.4 correct? You did all others?


----------



## Evan201

EVERYONE WITH 3D glasses, go buy this for $15 and use these 3d settings. 
Just amazing. 

3D Brightness High
Lamp - High

ENJOY.

uploadcertificity.com

screen shotcertificity.com


----------



## Deckardm

robc1976 said:


> Deckardm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sure. Dark room. I can't take credit, as these were shared by forum member aaranddeeman. The only difference is I haven't changed any gamma settings because it's confusing and I haven't figured it out yet.
> 
> Scroll up a little bit and you'll see a doc file (desktop browser only, as mobile browsers don't show it). I tried to upload it but avsforum won't permit.
> 
> 
> 
> so in that file you didn't mess with gamma 2.2 or 2.4 correct? You did all others?
Click to expand...

Exactly. I can't even figure out how to select gamma 2.2 or 2.4. It just shows a single gamma option with a few presets. There's a custom option, but it brings up a graph with some lines. Not intuitive at all. 

Also, when I go into the gamma menu the picture pauses, and the unpleasant hum coming from the projector goes away (not the fan). Wish I could figure out how to make that hum go away permanently.


----------



## Barry7767

Evan201 said:


> seplant said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, that loses HDR and the wide color gamut. He wants to strip the HDR flag but retain the wide color gamut. Linker does that.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure you lose WCG when selecting SDR in signal and fixing BT2020 in color mode? Seems to look excellent to me especially on Batman V Superman, Revenant, and X-Men Futures Past UHD.
> 
> So back to this question. With the Philips 7501 all standard settings and the Epson signal menu fixed on SDR and BT2020, will I need a linker/integral to preserve the best BT2020 space coming from the Philips?
> 
> UB900 plus Linker seems to be the best HDR to SDR conversion for BT2020, but that rounds out to about $800 in gear. YIKES. I'd like to use my Philips player and Epson to convert HDR to SDR and still preserve the most color.
Click to expand...

If WCG is lost when forcing SDR, how is WCG retained as claimed in HarperVision which requires you to force SDR?


----------



## LFE Junkie

Just got my 6040ub calibrated by Jeff Meier last weekend, and let me tell you after a week of assessment this thing is UNBELIEVABLE!!!!! He calibrated a setting for SDR, HDR, and 3-D. Jeff is very personable and took the time to explain what he was doing in layman terms for me. I already have a few people interested in his work after seeing what it did for my display. I didn't really have any settings before he came by, it was a factory default. I was abit hesitant on getting it done cause the projector just looked so good at the time. Let me tell you, that couldn't be farthest from the truth. Jeff had all kind of equipment, wires, and a laptop all over my room just for a single calibration. Seeing what he did on the fly right before my eyes for the picture was spectacular. Knowing that i have an impactful, stunning picture out of my 6040ub leaves me w/ the piece of mind that this projector cannot look any better!!!!:smile::smile::smile::smile::smile::smil e:


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs evan201, I thought it was strange that Epson designed it this way,my old Epson ran for several seconds & also my Panasonic did too after you shut them down,that's why I bought a ups for power outages for the fan to run to keep bulb cool,i run the Epson on eco,its bright enough.


----------



## chevpowr

I just wanted to let you guys know that I have been using the Sony UBP-x800 for my 4k blu ray player and it has performed extremely well. 

The Netflix app originally wasn't getting 4k until myself and a few others posted to a Sony forum about the issue. One of the moderators/ Sony employees relayed the info to engineers and they found the issue. He posted that an update would come in late April, and sure enough it was here April 26. Now Im getting 4k and HDR from the Netflix and Amazon Apps. 
I seriously wasn't expecting that kind of service, but they made it happen so I want to give a recommendation for the Sony UBP-x800 for awesome picture quality


----------



## jwhn

chevpowr said:


> Now Im getting 4k and HDR from the Netflix and Amazon Apps.


Good to know. I'm curious - are you able to play 4K 60fps HDR videos from YouTube?


----------



## aaranddeeman

bommai said:


> Anyone know how much my old Epson 1080UB is worth? It works well and comes with remote. Someone offered $150. That seems very low.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is going to be hard sell.
I chose to keep both (old Sanyo PLV z2000 and 6040ub) mounted. Sanyo gets used for DVD viewing.


----------



## chevpowr

jwhn said:


> Good to know. I'm curious - are you able to play 4K 60fps HDR videos from YouTube?


looks like I'm getting 4k 60 fps video on the youtube app but not getting HDR. I will tell the Sony moderator and see what happens


----------



## robc1976

Deckardm said:


> Exactly. I can't even figure out how to select gamma 2.2 or 2.4. It just shows a single gamma option with a few presets. There's a custom option, but it brings up a graph with some lines. Not intuitive at all.
> 
> Also, when I go into the gamma menu the picture pauses, and the unpleasant hum coming from the projector goes away (not the fan). Wish I could figure out how to make that hum go away permanently.


I will leave it alone also


----------



## jwhn

chevpowr said:


> looks like I'm getting 4k 60 fps video on the youtube app but not getting HDR. I will tell the Sony moderator and see what happens


That's what I expected. It's the same on the Samsung I just bought. As far as I understand, the issue is not with the UHD player. The 5040UB can't handle 60fps HDR. 

HDR works with Amazon and Netflix because the player recognizes or converts to 24fps (I think). But it does not do this with YouTube. So if there were a setting on the UHD player that would force the conversion to 24fps, then maybe it would work. On the Samsung, the only options are OFF or Auto. I cannot force it to 24fps. I'm not sure if its possible / feasible to do so. Maybe someone who understands this better than me (which is very little), can shed some light. 

But its not a deal breaker for me. It's cool to watch the Costa Rica video once or twice, but I don't see myself regularly watching YouTube HDR content.


----------



## Slodojo

So what's the current recommended UHD player? The Samsung? Also, am I correct that the nvidia shield works well, as long as you limit 4k to < 30 fps? Thanks!


----------



## bommai

I have 8' ceiling. My screen is 150" so the top of the screen is just 2" from the ceiling. I just got my Chief 4500 mount. It came with the extension pipe. It looks like I can flush mount it without the pipe as well. Should I use the flush pipe or not for a 8' ceiling. I want to minimize horizontal offset. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Deckardm said:


> Exactly. I can't even figure out how to select gamma 2.2 or 2.4. It just shows a single gamma option with a few presets. There's a custom option, but it brings up a graph with some lines. Not intuitive at all.
> 
> Also, when I go into the gamma menu the picture pauses, and the unpleasant hum coming from the projector goes away (not the fan). Wish I could figure out how to make that hum go away permanently.


put in settings, was a bit dark for me but this was on xbox. Can we use digital cinema with these settings? I put power consumption on.medium for a bit more light.

Also, what did you set "auto iris" to?


----------



## henrikr

Hi guys

I need help, i just got my first house after finishing a engineering degree. I got my room done, and i have a b&w audio setup etc. 

And i have no decided to go for the epson ub5040 projector.

Only problem is that i live in norway, and i dont know the model name over here. I think its tw9300. The weird thing is though that the black projector is cheaper then the white one. Almost 4000 NOK diference (500 dollars). Which seems weird because i thought the black one had mount etc included. Maybe im wrong.

https://www.hifiklubben.no/tv-og-hjemmekino/projektor/epson-eh-tw9300w-videoprojektor/
https://www.hifiklubben.no/tv-og-hjemmekino/projektor/epson-eh-tw9300-videoprojektor/

U need to google translate that site perhaps. But you get the idea.

We also have a projector called tw7300.

Appreciate the help


----------



## henrikr

Think i figured out the tw9300 (black) is the ub6040 and the tw9300w (white) is ub5040? Dunno.

Anyways i just placed an order on the tw9300 black version


----------



## Lesmor

henrikr said:


> Think i figured out the tw9300 (black) is the ub6040 and the tw9300w (white) is ub5040? Dunno.
> 
> Anyways i just placed an order on the tw9300 black version


In Europe we don't get the mount etc
I just got the 9300 not sure what you had before but this is a great PJ
The 9300W is white and wireless


----------



## henrikr

Lesmor said:


> In Europe we don't get the mount etc
> I just got the 9300 not sure what you had before but this is a great PJ
> The 9300W is white and wireless


Ah okay that explains why the white one is more expensive. This is my first PJ. So i am quite excited


----------



## henrikr

Quick question btw, most my files are on a custom built server. Im using kodi for my HTPC and Plex for the rest of the family.

Most of the files are straight rips from my blurays, in mkv format (hd sound tracks, full bitrate etc).

I see alot of praise for the following picture setting: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017

However, this only works for UHD blurays with HDR right? If so, then two follow up questions

What about games that supports HDR on PS4 Pro? Do i need to disable HDR in the PS4 Pro settings and use Dave settings. Im confused by the process on this

Secondly. Does anyone have any good settings for standard 1080 blurays?


----------



## aaranddeeman

aaranddeeman said:


> I know. It happens with many of us. The post # would be really helpful.
> 
> Edit : Is it post # 7220? If yes, I am assuming the white balance controls are at it's default, so are the CMS. Because when I tried to apply those settings over and above my HCFR calibrated DigitalCinema, it tend to blow the highlights.


I missed one important piece of information from Harpervision. You have to force the PJ to SDR on HDR signals. Yeah, that makes more sense and it may not be the issue of whitebalance and CMS anymore. Will try that today and see how it goes.


----------



## dholmes54

How do you become a isf tech,does learning part take long?


----------



## panman40

dholmes54 said:


> How do you become a isf tech,does learning part take long?


Probably years, also there's no substitute for years of experience to.


----------



## Lesmor

henrikr said:


> Ah okay that explains why the white one is more expensive. This is my first PJ. So i am quite excited


First One!!!!
You made a good choice 
You probably know that you do need to adjust the settings to get the best from any display so just get used to it out of the box and take it from there.
Once you have a projector there is IMO no substitute


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> First One!!!!
> You made a good choice
> You probably know that you do need to adjust the settings to get the best from any display so just get used to it out of the box and take it from there.
> Once you have a projector there is IMO no substitute


Agreed, its better than my 88" plasma hands down, and 1/4th the cost for a lot more real estate.


----------



## drhankz

henrikr said:


> Hi guys
> 
> Only problem is that i live in norway, and i dont know the model name over here. I think its tw9300. The weird thing is though that the black projector is cheaper then the white one. Almost 4000 NOK diference (500 dollars). Which seems weird because i thought the black one had mount etc included. Maybe im wrong.
> 
> Appreciate the help


I would look at this *



*


----------



## Deckardm

robc1976 said:


> Deckardm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly. I can't even figure out how to select gamma 2.2 or 2.4. It just shows a single gamma option with a few presets. There's a custom option, but it brings up a graph with some lines. Not intuitive at all.
> 
> Also, when I go into the gamma menu the picture pauses, and the unpleasant hum coming from the projector goes away (not the fan). Wish I could figure out how to make that hum go away permanently.
> 
> 
> 
> put in settings, was a bit dark for me but this was on xbox. Can we use bright cinema with these settings? I.put power consumption on.medium for a bit more light.
> 
> Also, what did you set "auto iris" to?
Click to expand...

Have it set to off, but tbh really not sure what the correct setting is.


----------



## john barlow

Evan201 said:


> I installed the monoprice Luxe Active Cable at 35' and have had no issues with 1.09 FM. You may need an active cable, not just high speed.
> If plugged into the HDMI 2.2 on PJ
> I'm using the philips UHD player for HDR.
> 
> I receive:
> 3840 x 2160
> 23.97 Hz
> 12 bit 4:2:2
> BT. 2020 HDR1


Pardon my question. Where do I check for firmware update info? I've got my 5040UB hardwired Ethernet. I have no Idea how to do a firmware upgrade on the 5040UB. I've looked everywhere I could think of on the Epson site and came up empty handed. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Al O

john barlow said:


> Pardon my question. Where do I check for firmware update info? I've got my 5040UB hardwired Ethernet. I have no Idea how to do a firmware upgrade on the 5040UB. I've looked everywhere I could think of on the Epson site and came up empty handed. Thanks in advance.


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## john barlow

Al O said:


> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


Thanks, I did find it finally through google. What is this firmware update doing for us? All I found was the update, which I downloaded to a USB thumbdrive. I read the instructions which seemed tedious and universal across the product line. What's the point of hardwiring my unit to my network If I can't perform updates there like I have been for my Oppo 203? Argghh. I don't want to brick my unit because the risk is with the owner only.


----------



## jim94025

Can someone explain the differences, if any, between the 5040 and 6040 in regards to calibration abilities? I know Epson states that the 6040 is ISF calibrateable and the 5040 is not, however one online site said that they basically had the same abilities for calibration. Is there a difference ? If so, what and does it really matter to a pro?


----------



## bommai

Does the 5040ub have rf remote capability using harmony or only IR remote. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Dave2sb said:


> The link for the Harper settings just takes me back to this page. Could someone please repost the setting or tell what page to find them? Thanks so much for the help!


Sorry. As stated it is post number 7220. When I click the link in my signature it always goes to the correct post so I'm not sure what the issue is. It must be dependent on what device you are using to view the forum.



Barry7767 said:


> If WCG is lost when forcing SDR, how is WCG retained as claimed in HarperVision which requires you to force SDR?


No one said wide color gamut is lost when you select SDR. Those are two completely different things. This is why many people used to like to strip HDR but keep wide color gamut to get SDR with BT2020. 

SDR and HDR are talking about the dynamic range of the signal from absolute black to peak white. Those are luminance type parameters. 

BT2020 and BT709 are chroma parameters and refer to the color gamut and what Peak color reference points can be achieved for more saturated and vibrant colors. These can be viewed in the CIE 1931 color gamut chart



Evan201 said:


> Are you sure you lose WCG when selecting SDR in signal and fixing BT2020 in color mode? Seems to look excellent to me especially on Batman V Superman, Revenant, and X-Men Futures Past UHD.
> 
> So back to this question. With the Philips 7501 all standard settings and the Epson signal menu fixed on SDR and BT2020, will I need a linker/integral to preserve the best BT2020 space coming from the Philips?
> 
> UB900 plus Linker seems to be the best HDR to SDR conversion for BT2020, but that rounds out to about $800 in gear. YIKES. I'd like to use my Philips player and Epson to convert HDR to SDR and still preserve the most color.


You're totally missing the concept. You don't lose wide color gamut when you select SDR. See my above explanation. But they are two totally different signals. You lose wide color gamut when you select anything other than cinema or digital cinema Modes that engage the wide color gamut filter, so that is what they are talking about.

If you just select BT2020 in the color menu, but you are still only sending the projector BT709 color signal then all you are doing is stretching that signal out to the BT2020 color points making it look too cartoony and fake because you weren't sending it true native BT2020 color. 



Deckardm said:


> Was toying around with various settings, and found that HDR1 setting with non HDR content really fouled up the image making it too dark and washed out. Will give it a try again when I have some bona fide HDR content.
> 
> Anyway, discovered this hdmi video range setting buried in the menu, and wondering how that should be set. Normal mode seems to look the same as auto with 1080p content, while expanded mode brightens everything up but washes it out. Can anyone chime in on this feature?


The reason HDR1 setting didn't work is because you were inputting SDR not HDR and the two signals are completely different. The only reason why my HDR on SDR works is because I mess with the gamma and change a ton of settings to make it look good on projectors, which were known to not work so well with HDR signals like they do on flat panels that can have much higher lumen/nit outputs. 

The normal and expanded range for HDMI video is designed for what your source is sending. PCs usually send The full expanded range of zero through 255 and video is usually mastered from 16 through 235. The reason it looks washed out when you put it to expanded is because you are taking the Black level that was at 16 in the video you're displaying and then moving reference Black to zero so digital value 16 now looks a lot higher than reference black zero that you just told it to look for. You can get it to look OK by recalibrating your display using black and white clipping patterns and your brightness and contrast controls. You have to be careful though when using expanded on a standard video signal because it can cause things like banding due to the stretching out of the range.



henrikr said:


> Quick question btw, most my files are on a custom built server. Im using kodi for my HTPC and Plex for the rest of the family.
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the files are straight rips from my blurays, in mkv format (hd sound tracks, full bitrate etc).
> 
> 
> 
> I see alot of praise for the following picture setting: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017
> 
> 
> 
> However, this only works for UHD blurays with HDR right? If so, then two follow up questions
> 
> 
> 
> What about games that supports HDR on PS4 Pro? Do i need to disable HDR in the PS4 Pro settings and use Dave settings. Im confused by the process on this
> 
> 
> 
> Secondly. Does anyone have any good settings for standard 1080 blurays?



My HDR on SDR settings are universal and can be used on any HDR signal including games I would think although I am not a gamer and I have not tried it myself but I don't see why it wouldn't work.


----------



## Dave Harper

bommai said:


> Does the 5040ub have rf remote capability using harmony or only IR remote.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



IR only. Use a harmony hub.


----------



## bommai

Dave Harper said:


> IR only. Use a harmony hub.




Yeah that is what I am using. I was just wondering if I could get away without an IR blaster in the line of sight of the projector. Also, I installed the chief mount today. Very nice in deed.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jjwinterberg

bommai said:


> Does the 5040ub have rf remote capability using harmony or only IR remote.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Go serial. There is so much more control via the serial control that once you go serial you will never want to go back.


----------



## aaranddeeman

bommai said:


> Yeah that is what I am using. I was just wondering if I could get away without an IR blaster in the line of sight of the projector.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You don't need IR blaster. The PJ remotes are such that they use the screen as a reflector to send the signals back to PJ. The Epson is n o different.
Unless of course you are trying to control everything with one remote.


----------



## jbrazda

bommai said:


> Yeah that is what I am using. I was just wondering if I could get away without an IR blaster in the line of sight of the projector. Also, I installed the chief mount today. Very nice in deed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




The elite sends ir out of the remote. So you can point it at the screen and it will bounce to the projector. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cdnmiggy

jjwinterberg said:


> Go serial. There is so much more control via the serial control that once you go serial you will never want to go back.


For a noob what is serial?


----------



## cdnmiggy

Dave Harper said:


> IR only. Use a harmony hub.


Dave I sent a PM with a question. Don't know if you noticed it but just a heads up. Thanks


----------



## Dave Harper

Yes sorry. I'm catching up as I can. I'll get to PMs when I have more time


----------



## MississippiMan

jbrazda said:


> The elite sends ir out of the remote. So you can point it at the screen and it will bounce to the projector.


Sanity prevails

..........unless insanely the person is using the IPhone app, then................




cdnmiggy said:


> For a noob what is serial?


A collection of edible Grains or Flakes, usually consumed in a Bowl of Milk.




He's referring to a multi-conducter / pin cord, almost identical in nature to the one you used to attach between Computer components before the days of USB. Usually referred to as a 9-Pin RS232 Serial Cord...it links the Receiver or Signal Source to the Display.

If you ran one already, your all set!

If not....then your not.


----------



## MississippiMan

Dave Harper said:


> IR only. Use a harmony hub.


Awww....when was the last time you put a Harmony Hub up on top a Ceiling mounted PJ?

For anyone who is using a Harmony that is RF to IR Only, then a IR Blaster must be extended to, or placed within range of the PJ's IR window.

If they have a Android Phone that has IR, then using the Harmony Phone App will solve the problem. People tend to overlook that all the latest generation Harmony Remotes access the Hubs via Wi-Fi...not RF, and at the Hub that signal is converted to IR.

This even though the Set-Up / Paring requires you to connect to your Wi-Fi.

Pity the Po' Fools that have iPhones.


----------



## jjwinterberg

cdnmiggy said:


> For a noob what is serial?


It's the RS-232 interface on the rear of the projector. The interface accepts a serial string of digital data that represents commands. All the commands that the IR remote can send can also be sent with serial commands; PWR ON; turns on the projector. The real power of serial commands is activating directly commands that require going through multiple menus to select the command; DYNRANGE 02; selects HDR mode 1. 

Serial commanding also allows feedback from the projector. You can ask the projector about its status and it will return information. If you use a remote like iRule you can display this feedback on the remote screen. 

The challenge is to decide how to interface you preferred controller to the serial interface. With iRule you use a gateway that converts Ethernet to RS-232. Depending on which controller you want to use there may be a gateway that is part of their ecosystem.


----------



## bommai

I am actually using a Harmony Smart Remote. It uses the Harmony Hub. When I configured my Samsung UHD player, the Harmony app asked me if I wanted to control it using wifi and I said yes. I was hoping the Epson had wifi as well so that i can control it with the Harmony and get rid of my hub from line of sight of the projector. It is not a big deal. I just have it in a spot where the projector be reached. I noticed that the Epson has an ethernet port (even though I did not wire CAT6 to my ceiling 7 years ago - yikes), i thought it also had wifi and that could be one way to control the projector without IR.


----------



## gene4ht

bommai said:


> Also, I installed the chief mount today. *Very nice in deed*.


Agreed...it absolutely is.


----------



## Barry7767

seplant said:


> No, that loses HDR and the wide color gamut. He wants to strip the HDR flag but retain the wide color gamut. Linker does that.
> 
> EDIT: My bad! Forcing SDR in the projector settings does NOT lose the wide color gamut. However, if someone truly wants to strip the HDR and retain only the wide color gamut, the projector itself can't do that. A linker or similar external device is needed to do that.





Dave Harper said:


> No one said wide color gamut is lost when you select SDR. Those are two completely different things. This is why many people used to like to strip HDR but keep wide color gamut to get SDR with BT2020.
> 
> SDR and HDR are talking about the dynamic range of the signal from absolute black to peak white. Those are luminance type parameters.
> 
> BT2020 and BT709 are chroma parameters and refer to the color gamut and what Peak color reference points can be achieved for more saturated and vibrant colors. These can be viewed in the CIE 1931 color gamut chart


Thanks for the clarification, I wasn't saying that either. An earlier post had made me question this, as seplant stated that forcing SDR loses WCG - as above. He has edited the post to correct this, so all good now.

I have tried the settings and quite like them - I did notice a slight green cast on the Revenant, which setting would cause this/is best to experiment with to reduce it? Thanks


----------



## MississippiMan

bommai said:


> I am actually using a Harmony Smart Remote. It uses the Harmony Hub. When I configured my Samsung UHD player, the Harmony app asked me if I wanted to control it using wifi and I said yes.


Well really, if your Harmony gave you the Choice between IT & WiFi, then the Remote must have a IR Emitter. So simply go back into the Program and designate the Remote to IR for the PJ. A Fix cannot get any simpler than that!

I would imagine that when you use your Remote to turn on the system, you kinda sorta have it pointed toward the Screen anyway, so.............I cannot see the need whatsoever for using another Blaster, or having the Hub be withing the Room itself.


----------



## bommai

MississippiMan said:


> Well really, if your Harmony gave you the Choice between IT & WiFi, then the Remote must have a IR Emitter. So simply go back into the Program and designate the Remote to IR for the PJ. A Fix cannot get any simpler than that!
> 
> I would imagine that when you use your Remote to turn on the system, you kinda sorta have it pointed toward the Screen anyway, so.............I cannot see the need whatsoever for using another Blaster, or having the Hub be withing the Room itself.




Actually the remote is wifi and Bluetooth only. The smarts is all in the hub. The hub does wifi, Bluetooth and IR. When I setup my devices, harmony chooses what interface to use. For my Mac mini it uses Bluetooth, for the PS4 it uses Bluetooth, for my Samsung uhd player it chooses wifi, for my NAD T775 receiver it chooses IR and for the Epson 5040UB, it chose IR as well. It works and I am fine with it. But I was just hoping that if the projector has wifi built in (does it?), harmony could use that instead of IR. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Rob V

Good Morning All... I got my 5040 on Friday and set her up Sunday. Without having anything dialed in yet I wanted to flush out this issue with the image on my screen.

As you can see, the image tapers down from left to right (note the grey dead space on attached pics). AMartin figures it's an issue with my wall not being flat and I suspect he's right. I plan to dig into that tweak this week and try to shim my screen a half inch or so towards the projector... but before I do, have any of you experienced this? I'm assuming there are no image tweaks that can be performed to fix this.


----------



## jbrazda

Rob V said:


> Good Morning All... I got my 5040 on Friday and set her up Sunday. Without having anything dialed in yet I wanted to flush out this issue with the image on my screen.
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, the image tapers down from left to right (note the grey dead space on attached pics). AMartin figures it's an issue with my wall not being flat and I suspect he's right. I plan to dig into that tweak this week and try to shim my screen a half inch or so towards the projector... but before I do, have any of you experienced this? I'm assuming there are no image tweaks that can be performed to fix this.




I would first check to make sure the projector is perpendicular to the screen. That's probably an easier adjustment than shimming the screen. You probably need to rotate the pj, then use the settings to move the image back into place in the screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

bommai said:


> Actually the remote is wifi and Bluetooth only. The smarts is all in the hub. The hub does wifi, Bluetooth and IR. When I setup my devices, harmony chooses what interface to use. For my Mac mini it uses Bluetooth, for the PS4 it uses Bluetooth, for my Samsung uhd player it chooses wifi, for my NAD T775 receiver it chooses IR and for the Epson 5040UB, it chose IR as well. It works and I am fine with it. But I was just hoping that if the projector has wifi built in (does it?), harmony could use that instead of IR.


I see. 

That is / has been a glaring fault of the advertising / description of the lower-end Harmony Remotes. Harmony did in fact opt out of including a IR Emitter on a select range of Remotes about 2.5 years ago when introducing a new range of Models. That was a very ineffectual (...but self-serving...) decision to make given the preponderance of in-Room displays, and the supposed advertised primary intentional use of a Hub within a "Closed Cabinet". To expect someone to place a additional Hub "in the room"...or attempt to wire in a Blaster / Emitter from an existing Hub's remote Cabinet location to another location elsewhere (Ceiling mounted PJ ) is a ludicrous proposition. The Harmony is essentially a "After-Market" add-on, so presuming that any such retro-wiring was possible, if indeed out of hand a given it just plain wrong.

I myself made that error when ordering a Harmony for a Client.............but only once.  
I had quite a discussion with a Level 2 Tech for Harmony, and in the end it became apparent the entire fiasco really centered upon a Marketing ploy to force those who want In-Cabinet Hub convenience AND Remote IR capability to opt for the most expensive models.

The work-around is to separately purchase a Harmony Remote with IR capability, and do likewise with a separate Hub. 
Reading the Remote's description will allow one to ascertain that it can be mated with an Accessory Hub, and so in that way one can defeat the dastardly machinations of the bourgeois Marketing Department.

So...I've vented. Back to the 5040.


----------



## Rob V

jbrazda said:


> I would first check to make sure the projector is perpendicular to the screen. That's probably an easier adjustment than shimming the screen. You probably need to rotate the pj, then use the settings to move the image back into place in the screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Rotate about the Z-axis?


----------



## Deckardm

Dave Harper said:


> Deckardm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Was toying around with various settings, and found that HDR1 setting with non HDR content really fouled up the image making it too dark and washed out. Will give it a try again when I have some bona fide HDR content.
> 
> Anyway, discovered this hdmi video range setting buried in the menu, and wondering how that should be set. Normal mode seems to look the same as auto with 1080p content, while expanded mode brightens everything up but washes it out. Can anyone chime in on this feature?
> 
> 
> 
> The reason HDR1 setting didn't work is because you were inputting SDR not HDR and the two signals are completely different. The only reason why my HDR on SDR works is because I mess with the gamma and change a ton of settings to make it look good on projectors, which were known to not work so well with HDR signals like they do on flat panels that can have much higher lumen/nit outputs.
> 
> The normal and expanded range for HDMI video is designed for what your source is sending. PCs usually send The full expanded range of zero through 255 and video is usually mastered from 16 through 235. The reason it looks washed out when you put it to expanded is because you are taking the Black level that was at 16 in the video you're displaying and then moving reference Black to zero so digital value 16 now looks a lot higher than reference black zero that you just told it to look for. You can get it to look OK by recalibrating your display using black and white clipping patterns and your brightness and contrast controls. You have to be careful though when using expanded on a standard video signal because it can cause things like banding due to the stretching out of the range.
Click to expand...

Thank for clear that up. Went back to page 722 and was reading about your pseudo HDR settings. Not fully understanding about setting the source to HDR, but then canceling it out somehow? Not certain how this works as I'm using a Roku and there's only one HDR setting. 

Looking forward to trying out your Digital Cinema settings when I get a minute.


----------



## dholmes54

jim94025 said:


> Can someone explain the differences, if any, between the 5040 and 6040 in regards to calibration abilities? I know Epson states that the 6040 is ISF calibrateable and the 5040 is not, however one online site said that they basically had the same abilities for calibration. Is there a difference ? If so, what and does it really matter to a pro?


Same projector except 6040 is black,comes with mount,extra bulb and one extra year warranty


----------



## Evan201

HERES MY QUESTION TO EPSON. 
Hello Epson, 
If my 5040ub projector is being fed a UHD Blu ray sending HDR BT2020 4:2:2 and I go into the signal menu and select "SDR" fixed option as well as fixing the color mode to BT2020, will I then lose the wider color space by selecting SDR fixed. Does this option only strip HDR and leave the wider color gamut ?

RESPONSE: 
Hi Evan, Selecting SDR will strip some of the color gamut. Here is the FAQ on supported HDR signals.
pic hostingcertificity.com

image hosting 30 mbcertificity.com


----------



## Bob Sorel

> Same projector except 6040 is black,comes with mount,extra bulb and one extra year warranty


No. They are _similar_, but not the _same_. The 6040 has at least one ISF calibrated mode, though the 5040 can be calibrated as well or better than Epson's calibration. But more important than that, the 6040 provides anamorphic stretch for use with anamorphic lenses, a feature which is sorely missed (by me, anyway) from the 5040.


----------



## ayrton

aaranddeeman said:


> You don't need IR blaster. The PJ remotes are such that they use the screen as a reflector to send the signals back to PJ. The Epson is n o different.
> Unless of course you are trying to control everything with one remote.


If I remember correctly, the PJ remote is RF and if you have the UBe, the WiFi is IR.


----------



## Lesmor

Bob Sorel said:


> No. They are _similar_, but not the _same_. The 6040 has at least one ISF calibrated mode, though the 5040 can be calibrated as well or better than Epson's calibration. But more important than that, the 6040 provides anamorphic stretch for use with anamorphic lenses, a feature which is sorely missed (by me, anyway) from the 5040.


Which mode is ISF calibrated on the 6040 ?


----------



## leo9000

Rob V said:


> Good Morning All... I got my 5040 on Friday and set her up Sunday. Without having anything dialed in yet I wanted to flush out this issue with the image on my screen.
> 
> As you can see, the image tapers down from left to right (note the grey dead space on attached pics). AMartin figures it's an issue with my wall not being flat and I suspect he's right. I plan to dig into that tweak this week and try to shim my screen a half inch or so towards the projector... but before I do, have any of you experienced this? I'm assuming there are no image tweaks that can be performed to fix this.


I had a similar issue. I just tilted the projector up a bit and re-centered the image with lens shift and it centered perfectly. It didn't seem intuitive at first, since it was off on bottom and perfect on the top and sides, but it worked.


----------



## bommai

Rob V said:


> Good Morning All... I got my 5040 on Friday and set her up Sunday. Without having anything dialed in yet I wanted to flush out this issue with the image on my screen.
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, the image tapers down from left to right (note the grey dead space on attached pics). AMartin figures it's an issue with my wall not being flat and I suspect he's right. I plan to dig into that tweak this week and try to shim my screen a half inch or so towards the projector... but before I do, have any of you experienced this? I'm assuming there are no image tweaks that can be performed to fix this.



Your projector may not be at 90 degrees to the wall. It looks like the right side of your image is a little smaller than then left side. Which is why you have the dead space. You can confirm this by measuring the height of the image on the left and compare it to the height of the image in the right. If this is the case, try rotating the projector slightly so that the right side of the projector is pulled back a little. That will make the image on the right bigger and the left smaller. Does that make the image more rectangular? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Sorel

> Which mode is ISF calibrated on the 6040 ?


From examining the 6040ub manual, apparently there is no "ISF mode". The "ISF" mentioned by Epson is in the calibration tools: 


> Also, the Epson 6040UB provides additional advanced features, such as ISF calibration tools that professional installers can use to make more precise image quality adjustments for a variety of room lighting environments, as well as a Picture-in-Picture Mode that allows two HDMI source signals to be displayed on the screen simultaneously.


I have not worked with either projector, so I don't know what the difference is between the calibration controls of the 2 models, but going my experience with the 5030ub (my current unit), the controls provided are more than sufficient to fully calibrate the unit. Maybe the controls in the 6040 can be used to calibrate other color spaces that can't be calibrated in the 5040? I really don't know...I just know that Epson is touting the "ISF calibration controls" for the 6040 and not for the 5040. I question this feature's value. Maybe an ISF guy who has worked with both models can tell us what is different.

The anamorphic support can be found on page 71 of the 6040ub user manual and is missing from the 5040ub's manual.

There is also a "lens iris" control on page 93 that is ascribed to the 6040ub in both manuals.


----------



## schmidtwi

Rob V said:


> Good Morning All... I got my 5040 on Friday and set her up Sunday. Without having anything dialed in yet I wanted to flush out this issue with the image on my screen.
> 
> As you can see, the image tapers down from left to right (note the grey dead space on attached pics). AMartin figures it's an issue with my wall not being flat and I suspect he's right. I plan to dig into that tweak this week and try to shim my screen a half inch or so towards the projector... but before I do, have any of you experienced this? I'm assuming there are no image tweaks that can be performed to fix this.




As others have stated, your projector needs adjustment, not your screen. Take a string and measure from left side of the screen to the left side of the projector lens. The right side screen to right side lens must be exactly the same.


----------



## LFE Junkie

schmidtwi said:


> As others have stated, your projector needs adjustment, not your screen. Take a string and measure from left side of the screen to the left side of the projector lens. The right side screen to right side lens must be exactly the same.


Usually your manual position is not centered in the projector. What you need to do is position the image as far right as it can go by using the lens, mark the wall. Then position the projector all the way to the left, and make sure it is roughly the same spot as the mark on the right side. If it is not, then you need to loosen the mounts on the projector and move it over just a tad. Once the left and right are similar, put the projector back on point w/ the positioning and you should be square.

This is the same procedure i used and it is almost perfect.


----------



## schmidtwi

LFE Junkie said:


> Usually your manual position is not centered in the projector. What you need to do is position the image as far right as it can go by using the lens, mark the wall. Then position the projector all the way to the left, and make sure it is roughly the same spot as the mark on the right side. If it is not, then you need to loosen the mounts on the projector and move it over just a tad. Once the left and right are similar, put the projector back on point w/ the positioning and you should be square.
> 
> This is the same procedure i used and it is almost perfect.


Great idea, thanks.


----------



## Deckardm

Though my camera phone doesn't do the real life image any justice, thought I'd post this beautiful image from Into the Badlands. A good bit of ambient light in the room using Bright Cinema mode (medium lamp).


----------



## rupedogg24

I have about 1300 hours on my 5040. All I did was a few adjustments after the most recent firmware update. I actually removed the HDFury Integral from the chain and am using normal and bright cinema (autobright) depending on the content. 

The following pics are in bright cinema. The first from HBO's The Leftovers. The rest are from a YouTube 4k 60p Nature video. I'm still in awe every time I see different content that makes this projector sing. Look at the detail on the woman's face being pulled from a 1080 source. Pics are from my phone.









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## hnupe

rupedogg24 said:


> I have about 1300 hours on my 5040. All I did was a few adjustments after the most recent firmware update. I actually removed the HDFury Integral from the chain and am using normal and bright cinema (autobright) depending on the content.
> 
> The following pics are in bright cinema. The first from HBO's The Leftovers. The rest are from a YouTube 4k 60p Nature video. I'm still in awe every time I see different content that makes this projector sing. Look at the detail on the woman's face being pulled from a 1080 source. Pics are from my phone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


What are your settings? Can you take a picture?


----------



## Dave Harper

MississippiMan said:


> Awww....when was the last time you put a Harmony Hub up on top a Ceiling mounted PJ?
> 
> For anyone who is using a Harmony that is RF to IR Only, then a IR Blaster must be extended to, or placed within range of the PJ's IR window......


I have it so the hub bounces the IR signals all over the room, including the screen, which sends it easily and repeatably to the projector every time. Remember that the Harmony Hub has a Flooding IR Flasher built in, so it floods the room with IR signals. I haven't had any issues controlling all my gear with it, other that the UB900 UHD BR player, but I use the remote's IR for that. I think it's more of an IR mode thing on that, but I just haven't bothered or had time to troubleshoot yet.



Barry7767 said:


> Thanks for the clarification, I wasn't saying that either. An earlier post had made me question this, as seplant stated that forcing SDR loses WCG - as above. He has edited the post to correct this, so all good now.
> 
> I have tried the settings and quite like them - I did notice a slight green cast on the Revenant, which setting would cause this/is best to experiment with to reduce it? Thanks


Have you had a calibration done on it yet, namely greyscale? If that is set with too much green or too little blue and/or red, then you may be seeing that. It could also be your CMS' RGBCMY settings. Did you mess with those at all?



bommai said:


> *Actually the remote is wifi and Bluetooth only.* The smarts is all in the hub. The hub does wifi, Bluetooth and IR. When I setup my devices, harmony chooses what interface to use. For my Mac mini it uses Bluetooth, for the PS4 it uses Bluetooth, for my Samsung uhd player it chooses wifi, for my NAD T775 receiver it chooses IR and for the Epson 5040UB, it chose IR as well. It works and I am fine with it. But I was just hoping that if the projector has wifi built in (does it?), harmony could use that instead of IR.


I have a Harmony Smart remote and it has IR capability. I use it in IR mode all the time to control my Panasonic UB900 UHD Bluray player. (and yes, I know it is using IR because I have to make sure to point it at it, and I had to set it that way in the setup app intentionally).



Deckardm said:


> Thank for clear that up. Went back to page 722 and was reading about your pseudo HDR settings. Not fully understanding about setting the source to HDR, but then canceling it out somehow? Not certain how this works as I'm using a Roku and there's only one HDR setting.
> 
> Looking forward to trying out your Digital Cinema settings when I get a minute.


I think you mean _post 7220_, which is to my HarperVision settings?

What people aren't grasping here is that setting ANY setting in the menu of your projector is NOT changing ANYTHING on the source! It is simply forcing and telling your projector to go into that mode that you happen to select, even if it is the WRONG MODE! Selecting HDR1, 2, etc. will NOT force the source device (UHD bluray player, etc.) to all of the sudden send an HD signal. That is up to the source and what EDID it senses on the HDMI from the sink device (projector in this case). Selecting BT2020 in the projector will NOT make the source send BT2020 WCG. That only forces the projector into the mode where it thinks it should be getting a BT2020 WCG signal and sets its internal parameters accordingly. If you send it BT709 HD color gamut, then it will be and look screwed up, period! Setting it to AUTO when available will just mean that it will "automatically" select the mode that it senses within the incoming signal and what is told by the source's EDID that it's sending. If you send HDR BT2020, and you're in AUTO mode, then it will "automatically select" both HDR1 or 2, depending on whether you're on AUTO (Bright) or just AUTO, and BT2020 as the color space. You can trick these things by using a device like the HDFury or Integral as they are custom EDID devices that can customize what you want the source to send instead of using the EDID in the display device. They can also force certain modes like HDR, BT2020, scaling (Linker only), etc.

To answer your question now. Your source is and should be still sending the full HDR BT2020 WCG signal. You are ONLY changing the mode manually within your projector to SDR so that it then uses its own internal settings parameters for SDR, instead of HDR, thinking that's what its getting now, even though you're actually sending full HDR. If you leave it at AUTO, it will automatically select HDR1,2,3 or 4. That is NOT what we want for HarperVision settings because that results in to dark, flat and dull of an image on projectors as they don't have the lumen and nit power that flat panels do to do HDR any justice with it's peak whites and specular highlights. This then causes what looks like a washed out, messed up picture. This is where my settings like custom gamma, high contrast and chroma, come into play, making it look right, and even better than the stock HDR1(etc.) settings built into the projector! Is all this making sense now?

You don't need the HDFury Linker with a projector that can already take in an HDR signal and can be manually switched into SDR mode and a custom gamma can be set on it. You DO need a Linker if you are trying it on an SDR only projector or display, like I am doing now with the Epson LS10000 laser unit, which by the way I finally stumbled on some simply amazing and jaw dropping settings on last night! Honestly the *BEST* UHD HDR 4K BT2020 signal I have EVER seen with Planet Earth II UHD Bluray! My heart actually skipped a beat and my jaw dropped at what I was seeing!  This includes the venerable JVC RSx00/x20 line and the Sony 675ES! Granted I have not done this type of full "HarperVision" tweak on those yet, so this isn't to say those won't be better if I was able to, but seriously, it was astounding!

I do have one small issue that I am checking on though, before I release it officially. I am getting banding in the beginning of Planet Earth II when it shows the Earth and zooms and pans out to the words *"Planet Earth II"* and then the sun shines around the earth. I see it in the space surrounding it very easily. I have not noticed it with real video content though, so it's strange and I'm not sure if maybe it's supposed to be there somewhat, kind of like the circular glare and shine you get from something like a street light, etc. I did a little testing and found that going from HDMI Dynamic Range Normal to Enhanced alleviates it, but blows out my other settings that it took literally days to figure out! I need to find the same settings with Enhanced on I guess to get rid of it. I think it needs Enhanced because this is an SDR only projector and the full HDR signal has to compress within it, causing the banding. I have heard more than once that HDR needs to be set to Enhanced, but have yet to officially confirm this. There is such conflicting info still.





Evan201 said:


> HERES MY QUESTION TO EPSON.
> Hello Epson,
> If my 5040ub projector is being fed a UHD Blu ray sending HDR BT2020 4:2:2 and I go into the signal menu and select "SDR" fixed option as well as fixing the color mode to BT2020, will I then lose the wider color space by selecting SDR fixed. Does this option only strip HDR and leave the wider color gamut ?
> 
> RESPONSE:
> Hi Evan, Selecting SDR will strip some of the color gamut. Here is the FAQ on supported HDR signals.
> 
> pic hostingcertificity.com
> 
> image hosting 30 mbcertificity.com


This is simply not true. I don't believe the person understands what it is you are asking him/her. See my above and earlier replies. SDR and HDR refer to the luminance range, gamma, etc. (basically the black and white component of the signal). WCG, BT2020, BT709 are color gamuts and refer to how far out/how saturated, the phase/tint and the brightness of each color signal are. Changing one does NOT stop the other from being. Now, it is true that some sources like UHD Bluray players, when told to not output HDR, will automatically disable BT2020 WCG as well, but this does NOT have to be this way. This is proven by using an HDFury Linker or Integral and turning off HDR and tricking the source so it sends SDR instead, along with BT2020 WCG! Many do and have done this, including myself, many, many times. If you manually select BT2020 color mode, it WILL output the full colors in that mode and you can actually hear the WCG filter move into place.

Here is a CIE 1931 Color Gamut Chart. Nowhere in it does it mention "HDR, SDR, etc.":










Here is an SDR and HDR Waveform monitor image showing what they are, B&W luminance waveforms going from their respective black to their peak whites, and the differences.:










You can have HDR BT709 and SDR BT2020 as an example. Changing a mode in your projector will NOT change the input source signal, only something like and HDFury or the source itself can. It would be equivalent to owning a color TV and turning off the color. Sure the picture would become black and white, but the signal being sent to your TV is still a color TV signal, unaffected by what you selected on the TV itself.



ayrton said:


> If I remember correctly, the PJ remote is RF and if you have the UBe, the WiFi is IR.


The 5040/6040 projector's remotes are IR, not RF.


----------



## ac388

Hi Dave,

Love your 'HarperVision HDR' settings on 5040 so much, I wonder if you would share your settings for playing back 4k files that are without HDR. FYI, I am hooking up the Epson directly to a OPPO 203. 

Thanks for your help in advance. Regards.


----------



## Azekecse

bommai said:


> Yeah that is what I am using. I was just wondering if I could get away without an IR blaster in the line of sight of the projector. Also, I installed the chief mount today. Very nice in deed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I concur the chief mount is a quality mount. I needed to use an IR Blaster to turn on my projector since my AV equipment is in a closet/rack. I just ran the wire outside the door, mounted it high on a column, and voila, it worked like a charm. I didn't want to use it but unless I opened my AV door the hub signal would not turn on the Epson. I could probably figure out another alternative, but if ain't broke don't fix it. Everything is working fine now, I have the Amazon Echo integrated into my system, Alexa "Turn on the TV", it's a beautiful thing. Even my brother-in-law the Mechanical Engineer was impressed :wink:. However, I digress. Hope this story helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## mase1981

rupedogg24 said:


> I have about 1300 hours on my 5040. All I did was a few adjustments after the most recent firmware update. I actually removed the HDFury Integral from the chain and am using normal and bright cinema (autobright) depending on the content.
> 
> The following pics are in bright cinema. The first from HBO's The Leftovers. The rest are from a YouTube 4k 60p Nature video. I'm still in awe every time I see different content that makes this projector sing. Look at the detail on the woman's face being pulled from a 1080 source. Pics are from my phone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Would like to know your settings as well


----------



## GJBetancourt

gene4ht said:


> The SLB357 bracket arrived on Monday and I can confirm it is the correct bracket for the 5040/6040. I've always preferred the very sturdy Chief RPA mounts and their custom SLB brackets over their universal spider legs design. The RPA and SLB combo make for a very simple and quick installation. Subsequent de-installations and re-installations are equally simple and quick because its design keeps everything in perfect alignment and registration. I was able to de-install my old PJ and install the 5040 in less than 30 minutes. Here's a few pix to confirm fit.
> 
> View attachment 1828473
> View attachment 1828481
> View attachment 1828489
> View attachment 1828497


I have a Epson 5040ub and i was wondering
Where did you purchase your mount from? 
What else is needed to mount it to the ceiling? Any additional mounting hardware? 

Thank you !


----------



## GJBetancourt

Azekecse said:


> I concur the chief mount is a quality mount. I needed to use an IR Blaster to turn on my projector since my AV equipment is in a closet/rack. I just ran the wire outside the door, mounted it high on a column, and voila, it worked like a charm. I didn't want to use it but unless I opened my AV door the hub signal would not turn on the Epson. I could probably figure out another alternative, but if ain't broke don't fix it. Everything is working fine now, I have the Amazon Echo integrated into my system, Alexa "Turn on the TV", it's a beautiful thing. Even my brother-in-law the Mechanical Engineer was impressed :wink:. However, I digress. Hope this story helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Where did you purchase your mount from and whats included?


----------



## gene4ht

GJBetancourt said:


> I have a Epson 5040ub and i was wondering
> Where did you purchase your mount from?
> What else is needed to mount it to the ceiling? Any additional mounting hardware?
> 
> Thank you !


Both @*MississippiMan* and I are advocates of Chief's mounting system. His recent posts (second link below) contain the information you're looking for. I have purchased from both Visual Apex (Karl) and Projector People (Kirk) with good results. Feel free to shop either as I have purchased from Kirk from PP as well.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-259.html#post52574281

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-260.html#post52586273

Ceiling height and type will dictate what additional hardware may be necessary. For mounting directly to a typical 8' flat drywall ceiling will require only an RPA357 *kit* comprised of the RPA mount and the SLB357 custom plate. Other accessories (ceiling plate and/or extension tube) may be necessary depending on your room. Kirk should be able to assist with a solution for your situation.

And to quote MM: T'aint nuthin' Mo Bedder.....just cheaper and more flimsy.


----------



## Azekecse

GJBetancourt said:


> Where did you purchase your mount from and whats included?


I didn't purchase the mount, it was part of the Epson 6040UB package...You can purchase it on Epson's web site (Model: CHF2500), but it is currently out of stock. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Spyderturbo007

I think I'm still confused with the HarperVision settings. What do you do when you switch sources? It looks like those settings are for use with an UltraHD source, but what do I do when I switch back to my normal Kodi source that's 1080p?


----------



## GJBetancourt

gene4ht said:


> Both @*MississippiMan* and I are advocates of Chief's mounting system. His recent posts (second link below) contain the information you're looking for. I have purchased from both Visual Apex (Karl) and Projector People (Kirk) with good results. Feel free to shop either as I have purchased from Kirk from PP as well.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-259.html#post52574281
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-260.html#post52586273
> 
> Ceiling height and type will dictate what additional hardware may be necessary. For mounting directly to a typical 8' flat drywall ceiling will require only an RPA357 *kit* comprised of the RPA mount and the SLB357 custom plate. Other accessories (ceiling plate and/or extension tube) may be necessary depending on your room. Kirk should be able to assist with a solution for your situation.
> 
> And to quote MM: T'aint nuthin' Mo Bedder.....just cheaper and more flimsy.


Thanks for the help~


----------



## GJBetancourt

Azekecse said:


> I didn't purchase the mount, it was part of the Epson 6040UB package...You can purchase it on Epson's web site (Model: CHF2500), but it is currently out of stock. Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Thanks for the information!


----------



## GJBetancourt

Azekecse said:


> I concur the chief mount is a quality mount. I needed to use an IR Blaster to turn on my projector since my AV equipment is in a closet/rack. I just ran the wire outside the door, mounted it high on a column, and voila, it worked like a charm. I didn't want to use it but unless I opened my AV door the hub signal would not turn on the Epson. I could probably figure out another alternative, but if ain't broke don't fix it. Everything is working fine now, I have the Amazon Echo integrated into my system, Alexa "Turn on the TV", it's a beautiful thing. Even my brother-in-law the Mechanical Engineer was impressed :wink:. However, I digress. Hope this story helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke



Looks good!


----------



## Dave Harper

ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Love your 'HarperVision HDR' settings on 5040 so much, I wonder if you would share your settings for playing back 4k files that are without HDR. FYI, I am hooking up the Epson directly to a OPPO 203.
> 
> Thanks for your help in advance. Regards.





Spyderturbo007 said:


> I think I'm still confused with the HarperVision settings. What do you do when you switch sources? It looks like those settings are for use with an UltraHD source, but what do I do when I switch back to my normal Kodi source that's 1080p?


Easy, switch to Natural Mode and calibrate using normal rec709 parameters on a disc like Spears & Munsil, DVE, AVS, etc. I don't remember, but you may have to switch the gamma back to a preset instead of the custom one. You can setup Memories to automatically switch to many of the preferred settings for each signal and mode you watch.


----------



## Lesmor

Dave Harper said:


> Easy, switch to Natural Mode and calibrate using normal rec709 parameters on a disc like Spears & Munsil, DVE, AVS, etc. I don't remember, but you may have to switch the gamma back to a preset instead of the custom one. You can setup Memories to automatically switch to many of the preferred settings for each signal and mode you watch.


Not sure about your reference to "automatic memory switching" cant see an option for that?

It would be perfect if that was possible as I have a few experimental saved memories.
Unfortunately it looks like its a manual selection.

There doesn't even seem to be a way of checking which memory I am currently using.
Even when you use the memory button it looks like it defaults to the number 1 slot rather than the one that's in use

Any info on this would be appreciated


----------



## bommai

Azekecse said:


> I didn't purchase the mount, it was part of the Epson 6040UB package...You can purchase it on Epson's web site (Model: CHF2500), but it is currently out of stock. Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> 
> 
> Azeke



I thought it was the chf4500. I bought it from eBay new in box for $139. It came with everything including the shaft, ceiling piece, the custom plate and the mount itself. I had posted a picture earlier. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Lesmor said:


> Not sure about your reference to "automatic memory switching" cant see an option for that?
> 
> 
> 
> It would be perfect if that was possible as I have a few experimental saved memories.
> 
> Unfortunately it looks like its a manual selection.
> 
> 
> 
> There doesn't even seem to be a way of checking which memory I am currently using.
> 
> Even when you use the memory button it looks like it defaults to the number 1 slot rather than the one that's in use
> 
> 
> 
> Any info on this would be appreciated



I wasn't saying that it will automatically switch memories. I was saying that you can setup memories for each signal you may be sending it, then when that memory is manually selected, it will "automatically" switch the settings to whatever is saved within that memory.


----------



## airbag41

Dave Harper said:


> I wasn't saying that it will automatically switch memories. I was saying that you can setup memories for each signal you may be sending it, then when that memory is manually selected, it will "automatically" switch the settings to whatever is saved within that memory.


I have noticed that the "Advanced" setting under Signal does not reset with your memory selections. So if you want a different selection you have to change that when you go back to your other memory presets. It seems odd, but is that how it is supposed to work?


----------



## panman40

airbag41 said:


> I have noticed that the "Advanced" setting under Signal does not reset with your memory selections. So if you want a different selection you have to change that when you go back to your other memory presets. It seems odd, but is that how it is supposed to work?


It's how Epson have made it work, unfortunately when you select anything other than Auto/Bright such as SDR or hdr1 and assign those to different memory presets they do not carry over,

Take Daves digital cinema setting for instance for HDR , if you hard select SDR then save that as a memory if you then go back to bright cinema you will still have SDR selected. 

I have just started using Daves harpervision settings for 4K HDR discs tonight which with a small amount of adjustment for my unit look great but luckily forcing SDR for digital cinema mode when I go back to natural mode SDR is the correct setting, I only need to select my natural memory.


----------



## jim94025

Looking for anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area who has a 5040/6040 and has implimented Dave Harpers "Harpervision" parameters in their PJ.


----------



## Dave Harper

panman40 said:


> It's how Epson have made it work, unfortunately when you select anything other than Auto/Bright such as SDR or hdr1 and assign those to different memory presets they do not carry over,
> 
> Take Daves digital cinema setting for instance for HDR , if you hard select SDR then save that as a memory if you then go back to bright cinema you will still have SDR selected.
> 
> I have just started using Daves harpervision settings for 4K HDR discs tonight which with a small amount of adjustment for my unit look great but luckily forcing SDR for in digital cinema mode when I go back to natural mode SDR is the correct setting, I only need to select my natural memory.


Yes, that makes it nice. 



jim94025 said:


> Looking for anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area who has a 5040/6040 and has implimented Dave Harpers "Harpervision" parameters in their PJ.


It really isn't hard and I am sure we can walk you through it here.


----------



## bommai

Got my third projector (2nd replacement). Still have a color uniformity issue but it not as bad as the other one so I am going to keep this one. Not worth replacing it again. I have setup harpervision settings again. One thing that I thought worked before but does not now is the advanced signal setting such as hdmi video range and color space are not saved into memory and are not recallable. What happened? I have one setting for harpervision and another for natural. I want to use auto color space etc for natural and harpervision for bt2020.l, but I don't see how it remembers. I recall a memory and these settings don't get recalled. Yikes. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

bommai said:


> Got my third projector (2nd replacement). Still have a color uniformity issue but it not as bad as the other one so I am going to keep this one. Not worth replacing it again. I have setup harpervision settings again. One thing that I thought worked before but does not now is the advanced signal setting such as hdmi video range and color space are not saved into memory and are not recallable. What happened? I have one setting for harpervision and another for natural. I want to use auto color space etc for natural and harpervision for bt2020.l, but I don't see how it remembers. I recall a memory and these settings don't get recalled. Yikes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You only need to use 'Auto' HDMI video range, 'Auto colour space which will be correct for all modes and just select SDR. when you choose your natural or bright cinema memory for 1080p blu Ray SDR is the correct choice.

At least that's how it's working for me, it would be great if the Epson just went to your UHD settings when it detects a 4K signal though just as it does with a 3D signal.


----------



## panman40

A quick shot from passengers UHD with Daves settings, excuse the blur as I had several glasses of wine and it's taken on an iPad lol. Just a few tweaks of basic settings along with +2 HDR brightness from my Panasonic ub700 but bizarrely I was able to use Eco lamp, it's possible other movies will need medium lamp though but I notice on the Epson a big change in greyscale between Eco and medium so that's something to watch out for.


----------



## panman40

@ Dave Harper,

Dave did you come by your dig cinema gamma just by eye or did you use software/meter ?, when I finally got around to inputting them last night I was curious when I got to points 9 and 10 which are well into the + side compared to the ire below those points being all -

I'm just curious ?


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Dave Harper said:


> Easy, switch to Natural Mode and calibrate using normal rec709 parameters on a disc like Spears & Munsil, DVE, AVS, etc. I don't remember, but you may have to switch the gamma back to a preset instead of the custom one. You can setup Memories to automatically switch to many of the preferred settings for each signal and mode you watch.


I've never seen Natural Mode? Is this like switching from Digital Cinema to Cinema? 

Would applying your settings to Digital Cinema and then leaving Cinema to my current settings allow me to bounce back and forth when I switch sources? For example, Digital Cinema for 4K UHD and Cinema for 1080p BluRay?


----------



## adamhw

bommai said:


> Got my third projector (2nd replacement). Still have a color uniformity issue but it not as bad as the other one so I am going to keep this one. Not worth replacing it again. I have setup harpervision settings again. One thing that I thought worked before but does not now is the advanced signal setting such as hdmi video range and color space are not saved into memory and are not recallable. What happened? I have one setting for harpervision and another for natural. I want to use auto color space etc for natural and harpervision for bt2020.l, but I don't see how it remembers. I recall a memory and these settings don't get recalled. Yikes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


sorry cant pm yet, but I live in Melbourne too. i was looking to get my 5040ub calibrated and also had a urc remote that needs updating. 
Any reccomendations?
ty


----------



## MississippiMan

Azekecse said:


> I didn't purchase the mount, it was part of the Epson 6040UB package...You can purchase it on Epson's web site (Model: CHF2500), but it is currently out of stock. Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke



If I need to say I'm sorry for revisiting this I will. 
But I'm not really :

It seems now, and always has, that Epson is not really concerned with looks or installation. Over the span of years that they have provided mount kits with the Pro Models, they all have been poorly chosen for the formerly stated attributes. 

Can they be effectively used? Yes....but they are limiting in the ability to interface with a Ceilings structure, at times and with some earlier models very difficult to install, and they ALWAYS involve an excessive degree of height added to a Projector's drop distance.

A Low profile is Good profile. The image below of the Epson provided CHF2500 clearly shows the extended Legs of that RPA 250 Model. (...of course Epson might have had Chief change that aspect again...) 










The ability to engage adjustments for Pitch and Yaw are also not nearly as precise and "lock in-able" as the RPA 357. Still, it's worlds better than almost anything else, so........

Perhaps the most obnoxious thing is the "*X*" Ceiling Mounting Bracket.










It really does not have a very large Foot Print, and as is very obvious, unless one has a solid wood Ceiling, only two of the mounting holes can be placed directly under a Ceiling Joist. That means that even if one uses Anchors for the other two locations, the only lateral support provided for a 30 lb PJ's tendency to "tilt" is the Drywall's density factor.

I get better results using the Peerless ACC570 :










It provides a far better, more secure attachment over a much broader area. All that and it cost less too, as little as $17.95 from some sources. 

Of course, those choosing a 60-series Epson are doing so because of the "Package" provided, so change is not usually being considered on the front end.

But if having a secure mount for the larger 5040ub is desired, and one cannot get access to the area above the Ceiling to add some Deadwood for extra "Clamp-Down" support, the purchase of the Peerless ACC570 is strongly advised.


As one can gather from my postings, I am very much "bigly" on low profile mounting options. The Epson 3700 w/a older Chief RPO Universal now is replaced with a JVC x570r at the exact same height over that Door. Withought having used a dedicated Chief RPA Mount/Plate Combo, and a "through the Ceiling" mounting w/a Peerless ACC570, the installation would never have happened. Hail to the Chief. (...not you Donald....)


----------



## Evan201

panman40 said:


> A quick shot from passengers UHD with Daves settings, excuse the blur as I had several glasses of wine and it's taken on an iPad lol. Just a few tweaks of basic settings along with +2 HDR brightness from my Panasonic ub700 but bizarrely I was able to use Eco lamp, it's possible other movies will need medium lamp though but I notice on the Epson a big change in greyscale between Eco and medium so that's something to watch out for.


That looks good. Where did you get a Panasonic UB700? That unit has the same firmware update with HDR brightness meter as the ub900?


----------



## panman40

Evan201 said:


> That looks good. Where did you get a Panasonic UB700? That unit has the same firmware update with HDR brightness meter as the ub900?


I think the ub700 is not available in the USA, only the 900. Yes they both are the same basically apart from the 900 has analogue outs but the 700 doesn't.


----------



## Craig Peer

gene4ht said:


> Both @*MississippiMan* and I are advocates of Chief's mounting system. His recent posts (second link below) contain the information you're looking for. I have purchased from both Visual Apex (Karl) and Projector People (Kirk) with good results. Feel free to shop either as I have purchased from Kirk from PP as well.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-259.html#post52574281
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-260.html#post52586273
> 
> Ceiling height and type will dictate what additional hardware may be necessary. For mounting directly to a typical 8' flat drywall ceiling will require only an RPA357 *kit* comprised of the RPA mount and the SLB357 custom plate. Other accessories (ceiling plate and/or extension tube) may be necessary depending on your room. Kirk should be able to assist with a solution for your situation.
> 
> And to quote MM: T'aint nuthin' Mo Bedder.....just cheaper and more flimsy.


I've been using Chief mounts since 2003. I even had an NEC HT1000 projector hanging from an 8 foot drop tube off a 20' + / - slanted cathedral ceiling once, using a Chief mount. Back in " the day ". Worked great !


----------



## Craig Peer

panman40 said:


> I think the ub700 is not available in the USA, only the 900. Yes they both are the same basically apart from the 900 has analogue outs but the 700 doesn't.


The UB900 has been the best 4K / Blu-ray player I've owned yet, but it would be nice if the lower cost UB700 would be made available soon.


----------



## Evan201

Craig Peer said:


> The UB900 has been the best 4K / Blu-ray player I've owned yet, but it would be nice if the lower cost UB700 would be made available soon.


Im super intrigued about the UB900 HDR adjustment meter and how it will look with full HDR signal coming through the Epson onto my cinegrey 5d screen. 
Right now I'm using a blend of HarperVision with Oledurt gamma. 
I'd like to see if I could possibly stick with the HDR signal on Auto Bright - Bright Cinema and get good shadow detail up with the HDR meter.


----------



## Craig Peer

Evan201 said:


> Im super intrigued about the UB900 HDR adjustment meter and how it will look with full HDR signal coming through the Epson onto my cinegrey 5d screen.
> Right now I'm using a blend of HarperVision with Oledurt gamma.
> I'd like to see if I could possibly stick with the HDR signal on Auto Bright - Bright Cinema and get good shadow detail up with the HDR meter.


The new ( new as of the last firmware update ) dynamic contrast slider is amazing. 4K UHD Blu-rays all look excellent now - even " Arrival " isn't too dark !!


----------



## darkangelism

MississippiMan said:


> Perhaps the most obnoxious thing is the "*X*" Ceiling Mounting Bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It really does not have a very large Foot Print, and as is very obvious, unless one has a solid wood Ceiling, only two of the mounting holes can be placed directly under a Ceiling Joist. That means that even if one uses Anchors for the other two locations, the only lateral support provided for a 30 lb PJ's tendency to "tilt" is the Drywall's density factor.
> 
> I get better results using the Peerless ACC570 :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It provides a far better, more secure attachment over a much broader area. All that and it cost less too, as little as $17.95 from some sources.


I have the Chief one and not the peerless, the peerless only has two bolt holes? So are they between two joists?


----------



## Craig Peer

darkangelism said:


> I have the Chief one and not the peerless, the peerless only has two bolt holes? So are they between two joists?


Chief makes about 20 different ceiling plates, if the CMA101 doesn't float your boat - http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/Plates


----------



## Evan201

Craig Peer said:


> The new ( new as of the last firmware update ) dynamic contrast slider is amazing. 4K UHD Blu-rays all look excellent now - even " Arrival " isn't too dark !!


Ive been enjoying the Pseudo HDR --> SDR settings Dave Harper came up with, but I'd really be interested in seeing how the untouched HDR signal can look with that new adjustment. Most people say they like it a lot. 

I've tweaked the hell out of the HarperVision to the point where I believe it's something totally different. 
I'm using the Fixed SDR signal on Bright Cinema, but with Oledurt high gamma curve. This blows the image out, but I brought down brightness and contrast to under 45 and that seemed to bring back all the richness and nothing looks blown out at all. A little boost in color saturation and all the HDR content I've sent through looks amazing. 
Even Batman V. Superman which is really dark looks great now. 
There's one exception to these settings and that's when playing animation HDR UHD discs. "Sing" looks great with gamma at "0" and basically standard Bright Cinema settings with a little color boost.


----------



## darkangelism

Craig Peer said:


> Chief makes about 20 different ceiling plates, if the CMA101 doesn't float your boat - http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/Plates


Mine is fine, I was just curious.


----------



## panman40

Craig Peer said:


> The new ( new as of the last firmware update ) dynamic contrast slider is amazing. 4K UHD Blu-rays all look excellent now - even " Arrival " isn't too dark !!


You need to be careful how far you go with the slider as although it does not affect black movie bars it can quickly wash out onscreen black.


----------



## gene4ht

Craig Peer said:


> *The UB900 has been the best 4K / Blu-ray player I've owned yet*, but it would be nice if the lower cost UB700 would be made available soon.


Can you talk me out of my 203? Were it not for the commitment for DV support....


----------



## gene4ht

Craig Peer said:


> The new ( new as of the last firmware update ) dynamic contrast slider is amazing. 4K UHD Blu-rays all look excellent now - even " Arrival " isn't too dark !!


Are new units shipping with the update already installed or is it still an after purchase upgrade?


----------



## gene4ht

panman40 said:


> You need to be careful how far you go with the slider as although it does not affect black movie bars it can quickly wash out onscreen black.


Thought I read that +5 or +6 is about as far as one would want to go...true???


----------



## panman40

gene4ht said:


> Thought I read that +5 or +6 is about as far as one would want to go...true???


Yes, but I notice using harpervision settings a much lower setting is better.


----------



## Craig Peer

gene4ht said:


> Thought I read that +5 or +6 is about as far as one would want to go...true???


I find +4 on my 128" diagonal 2.35:1 Studiotek 130 to be fine.


----------



## Evan201

So is HarperVision combined with UB900 HDR slider optimal, or is regular HDR signal with HDR slider best?


----------



## Craig Peer

gene4ht said:


> Are new units shipping with the update already installed or is it still an after purchase upgrade?


It's a part of the regular firmware update - just like my Denon X7200WA asked to do a firmware update last night.


----------



## Craig Peer

gene4ht said:


> Can you talk me out of my 203? *Were it not for the commitment for DV support*....


Considering that no projector has ( and may never have - ever ) Dolby Vision ( and I don't watch movies on a TV ), that's sort of a non issue.


----------



## Craig Peer

evan201 said:


> so is harpervision combined with ub900 hdr slider optimal, or is regular hdr signal with hdr slider best?


paging dave harper, paging dave harper.................


----------



## Evan201

Looks like the UB400 will do the same HDR adjustments. 

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/ub400-201704134454.htm

The Panasonic DMP-UB400 also provides a [Dynamic Range Adjustment] setting for viewers who wish to brighten HDR images for daytime viewing. We’ve explained the reason why in a previous article, but 4K Blu-rays are generally unsuitable for consumption in the presence of significant ambient light due to how HDR10 code values are mastered in absolute luminance, yet there’s little to no headroom for displays to elevate brightness since [Backlight] and [Contrast] are normally maxed out in HDR mode to meet the peak brightness demands of high dynamic range material.
Some viewers resort to either engaging [Dynamic Contrast] on their HDR TVs, or increasing the [Contrast] setting on the 4K Blu-ray player itself. While both methods can work effectively to bump up APL (Average Picture Level), they typically also clip specular highlight detail (which is a key benefit of HDR). Panasonic’s [Dynamic Range Adjustment] approach instead cleverly applies YUV-to-RGB conversion before gain adjustments, allowing for brightening of APL without clipping specular highlights (to a certain degree).
The four [HDR Settings] options are merely presets with [Dynamic Range Adjustment] fixed at specific values:


“_Standard_” = [Dynamic Range Adjustment] “_0_“
“_Natural Environment_” = [Dynamic Range Adjustment] “_+4_“
“_Light Environment_” = [Dynamic Range Adjustment] “_+8_“
“_Bright Environment_” = [Dynamic Range Adjustment] “_+11_“
 Although cranking [Dynamic Range Adjustment] up to maximum didn’t blow out bright highlights in a grey ramp test pattern that’s mastered to 1000 nits, in practice we did observe some clipping of coloured highlight detail in 4K Blu-ray films. As always, be judicious with the use of such a powerful control: we advise going with [HDR Settings] “_Natural Environment_” if you’re watching HDR in a non-dark room, maybe “_Light Environment_” at a stretch.
Like its Panasonic siblings, the DMPUB400EBK delivers class-leading HDR-to-SDR conversion for users who don’t own a HDR television, or projector owners who do not wish to trigger HDR mode for fear of elevating black floor without noticeable peak luminance benefits. Colour conversion looked properly saturated, blacks were not clipped and there’s no visible posterisation, none of which could be said of OPPO 203′s attempt.


----------



## Avenger2015

*HD Upscaling Question*

Hello 5040UB owners. 

New member and first time posting on this forum.

I have the 5040UBe with a 135" Elite Screen (1.1 gain), a Sony STR-ZA1100ES, and a Sony UBP-X800. All of those items advertise 4K upscaling. 

My goal is to find out which one I should use to upscale along with any recommended settings for the different pieces of equipment.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Craig Peer

Evan201 said:


> Looks like the UB400 will do the same HDR adjustments.
> 
> http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/ub400-201704134454.htm
> 
> The Panasonic DMP-UB400 also provides a [Dynamic Range Adjustment] setting for viewers who wish to brighten HDR images for daytime viewing. We’ve explained the reason why in a previous article, but 4K Blu-rays are generally unsuitable for consumption in the presence of significant ambient light due to how HDR10 code values are mastered in absolute luminance, yet there’s little to no headroom for displays to elevate brightness since [Backlight] and [Contrast] are normally maxed out in HDR mode to meet the peak brightness demands of high dynamic range material.
> Some viewers resort to either engaging [Dynamic Contrast] on their HDR TVs, or increasing the [Contrast] setting on the 4K Blu-ray player itself. While both methods can work effectively to bump up APL (Average Picture Level), they typically also clip specular highlight detail (which is a key benefit of HDR). Panasonic’s [Dynamic Range Adjustment] approach instead cleverly applies YUV-to-RGB conversion before gain adjustments, allowing for brightening of APL without clipping specular highlights (to a certain degree).
> The four [HDR Settings] options are merely presets with [Dynamic Range Adjustment] fixed at specific values:
> 
> 
> “_Standard_” = [Dynamic Range Adjustment] “_0_“
> “_Natural Environment_” = [Dynamic Range Adjustment] “_+4_“
> “_Light Environment_” = [Dynamic Range Adjustment] “_+8_“
> “_Bright Environment_” = [Dynamic Range Adjustment] “_+11_“
> Although cranking [Dynamic Range Adjustment] up to maximum didn’t blow out bright highlights in a grey ramp test pattern that’s mastered to 1000 nits, in practice we did observe some clipping of coloured highlight detail in 4K Blu-ray films. As always, be judicious with the use of such a powerful control: we advise going with [HDR Settings] “_Natural Environment_” if you’re watching HDR in a non-dark room, maybe “_Light Environment_” at a stretch.
> Like its Panasonic siblings, the DMPUB400EBK delivers class-leading HDR-to-SDR conversion for users who don’t own a HDR television, or projector owners who do not wish to trigger HDR mode for fear of elevating black floor without noticeable peak luminance benefits. Colour conversion looked properly saturated, blacks were not clipped and there’s no visible posterisation, none of which could be said of OPPO 203′s attempt.


For some reason the UB400 didn't get as good a review as the UB900 here - https://www.whathifi.com/panasonic/dmp-ub400/review


----------



## panman40

Craig Peer said:


> For some reason the UB400 didn't get as good a review as the UB900 here - https://www.whathifi.com/panasonic/dmp-ub400/review


I only read what hifi reviews if I'm depressed and need a good laugh.


----------



## Bob Benson

Hi everyone, I'm considering upgrading at some point to the 5020 to 5040 and am looking for feedback from others that have gone that route.

Some of the things I am curious about I haven't seen a lot of posts about yet. Namely 3d performance.

How does 3d performance compare to the 5020? Has there been a noticeable improvement?

On my 5020 I was initially impressed with 3d with the exception of a couple titles that were always problematic.

Now as my 5020 gets older I see the flaws more and more with cross talk and am losing interest in 3d titles.


----------



## gene4ht

Craig Peer said:


> Considering that no projector has ( *and may never have - ever *) Dolby Vision ( and I don't watch movies on a TV ), that's sort of a non issue.


Didn't know this...is this common knowledge?


----------



## darkangelism

Bob Benson said:


> Hi everyone, I'm considering upgrading at some point to the 5020 to 5040 and am looking for feedback from others that have gone that route.
> 
> Some of the things I am curious about I haven't seen a lot of posts about yet. Namely 3d performance.
> 
> How does 3d performance compare to the 5020? Has there been a noticeable improvement?
> 
> On my 5020 I was initially impressed with 3d with the exception of a couple titles that were always problematic.
> 
> Now as my 5020 gets older I see the flaws more and more with cross talk and am losing interest in 3d titles.


Some people have had a lot of crosstalk issues with the 5040, and have sent units to Epson for testing for a fix. I personally have not done enough testing to be sure.


----------



## Craig Peer

gene4ht said:


> Didn't know this...is this common knowledge?


Dolby Vision only works by knowing exactly how bright a display is - which is possible with a flat panel HDTV. Not possible with a projector. Kris Deering ( Sound and Vision Magazine ) has stated many times ( in the $ 3000+ projector section ) that it is probably not possible, and DV has no plans for projectors. TV's only.


----------



## Craig Peer

panman40 said:


> I only read what hifi reviews if I'm depressed and need a good laugh.


I'm not sure why the UB400 wouldn't be as good, but maybe wait for more reviews - not that we can buy them in the US yet anyway. And I agree - I don't always trust their reviews.


----------



## panman40

Craig Peer said:


> I'm not sure why the UB400 wouldn't be as good, but maybe wait for more reviews - not that we can buy them in the US yet anyway. And I agree - I don't always trust their reviews.


There's no reason why it shouldn't be, Infact at the moment in the UK the ub700 is a few £ cheaper than the 400 so what with it having the new features of the 300/400 already plus it's a full size unit it's a no brainier to go with the 700 here at the moment.


----------



## seplant

Bob Benson said:


> Hi everyone, I'm considering upgrading at some point to the 5020 to 5040 and am looking for feedback from others that have gone that route.
> 
> Some of the things I am curious about I haven't seen a lot of posts about yet. Namely 3d performance.
> 
> How does 3d performance compare to the 5020? Has there been a noticeable improvement?
> 
> On my 5020 I was initially impressed with 3d with the exception of a couple titles that were always problematic.
> 
> Now as my 5020 gets older I see the flaws more and more with cross talk and am losing interest in 3d titles.


The 3D on my 6040 is terrible on many discs. Some discs seem to play fine, but several (Rogue One, Doctor Strange, Edge of Tomorrow) have terrible ghosting. There is a dedicated thread on this issue here. I have spoken with Epson several times about this issue, and they say their engineers are working to replicate, isolate, and resolve the issue, but they don't yet have any of the discs that seem to be the most problematic. They are working on getting them. I don't understand why some discs can be worse than others. I took these same discs to a JVC RS400 owner's home to try them on that projector, and they all played flawlessly. Owners who have been sent new projectors so Epson can troubleshoot theirs report that new ones perform better, but I'm wondering if the 3D gets worse as the projectors accumulate hours, just as you say your 5020 has. Strange, because I never noticed any ghosting or degradation in 3D performance on my 6010 during the 4 years that I owned that.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing (as long as I keep the 3D Brightness on Low)! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## Skylinestar

gene4ht said:


> Both @*MississippiMan* and I are advocates of Chief's mounting system. His recent posts (second link below) contain the information you're looking for. I have purchased from both Visual Apex (Karl) and Projector People (Kirk) with good results. Feel free to shop either as I have purchased from Kirk from PP as well.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-259.html#post52574281
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-260.html#post52586273
> 
> Ceiling height and type will dictate what additional hardware may be necessary. For mounting directly to a typical 8' flat drywall ceiling will require only an RPA357 *kit* comprised of the RPA mount and the SLB357 custom plate. Other accessories (ceiling plate and/or extension tube) may be necessary depending on your room. Kirk should be able to assist with a solution for your situation.
> 
> And to quote MM: T'aint nuthin' Mo Bedder.....just cheaper and more flimsy.


For confirmation... this is the KIT, am I correct?
https://www.projectorpeople.com/Chi...m-RPA-Projector-Mount--Black-/Accessory/41222
&
http://www.thefinalclick.com/Chief-...tor-Specific-Interface-Bracket-_p_153973.html
But why does the photo looks so different from MississippiMan's?


----------



## gene4ht

Skylinestar said:


> For confirmation... this is the KIT, am I correct? But why does the photo looks so different from MississippiMan's


Yes...the correct item to order is the RPA357 *kit* as MM indicated...and will include the RPA universal mount and the SLB357 custom plate for the 5040/6040. The photos in the dealer ads only show a stock/generic plate. The key is ordering the 357 designation to be assured of getting the custom plate for the 5040/6040. If possible, speak with a person to confirm these details.


----------



## Skylinestar

gene4ht said:


> Yes...the correct item to order is the RPA357 *kit* as MM indicated...and will include the RPA universal mount and the SLB357 custom plate for the 5040/6040. The photos in the dealer ads only show a stock/generic plate. The key is ordering the 357 designation to be assured of getting the custom plate for the 5040/6040. If possible, speak with a person to confirm these details.


Thanks. I think I'll just get from B&H. I need the mount and the bracket/plate.
B&H # CHRPA357 
MFR # RPA357
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1292167-REG/chief_rpa357_with_slb357.html


----------



## Halichopter

*Roku Ultra HDR Display Setting is Dark with 5040UB*

I have found this setting is so dark, at least using Amazon 4K HDR content, as to be unwatchable. Are there any fixes to this problem? 

I had heard that Epson might have a firmware fix coming. What is the revision latest firmware available?

Thanks,

Hal


----------



## gene4ht

Skylinestar said:


> Thanks. I think I'll just get from B&H. I need the mount and the bracket/plate.
> B&H # CHRPA357
> MFR # RPA357
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1292167-REG/chief_rpa357_with_slb357.html


That "should" be fine...if you can, please post a picture of what you receive.


----------



## gene4ht

gene4ht said:


> Can you talk me out of my 203? Were it not for the commitment for DV support....





Craig Peer said:


> Considering that no projector has ( and may never have - ever ) Dolby Vision ( and I don't watch movies on a TV ), that's sort of a non issue.





gene4ht said:


> Didn't know this...is this common knowledge?





Craig Peer said:


> Dolby Vision only works by knowing exactly how bright a display is - which is possible with a flat panel HDTV. Not possible with a projector. Kris Deering ( Sound and Vision Magazine ) has stated many times ( in the $ 3000+ projector section ) that it is probably not possible, and DV has no plans for projectors. TV's only.


For those interested, here is the link to the PJ/DV information that @Craig Peer is referencing....thx Craig!

It appears the technical aspects of implementing DV in PJs is an acknowledged challenge. I choose to believe most anything can be overcome. The question is...at what cost and in what timeframe? From the input and comments in the thread, I disagree with "maybe never" but would agree with "not anytime too soon."

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...041-dolby-vision-coming-front-projectors.html


----------



## achanonier

Hi Guys

A quick post here to say that I replaced my Custom Gamma Setting (the one using HDR and Natural mode) with the new HDR dynamic Slider of my Panasony UB700.
A set it to 8 and I get a fabulous picture, bright enough with a lot of contrast, and still feel the HDR thing which to my eyes disappear when you flatten things to much using some other solutions.
All my other settings are back to normal even HDR mode which default to HDR 1.


----------



## gene4ht

achanonier said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> A quick post here to say that I replaced my Custom Gamma Setting (the one using HDR and Natural mode) with the new HDR dynamic Slider of my Panasony UB700.
> A set it to 8 and I get a fabulous picture, bright enough with a lot of contrast, and still feel the HDR thing which to my eyes disappear when you flatten things to much using some other solutions.
> All my other settings are back to normal even HDR mode which default to HDR 1.


If I'm understanding you correctly, you prefer the Panny Dynamic Range Slider over all the other settings you have tried?


----------



## MississippiMan

darkangelism said:


> I have the Chief one and not the peerless, the peerless only has two bolt holes? So are they between two joists?


That is a older Image. All Peerless Ceiling Plates have 4 Holes now. I'll have to take one myself and attach it to my Attachment files.

Dependent upon the PJ in use, and how precise the center of the Ceiling Plate must be in respect to the PJ's Lens position, I / you / someone can either line up two holes on a Stud, either to one side with two holes using Anchors, or with 2 Holes centered on a Stud and each side hole using a Anchor.

If Attic Access is available, one can install a Plywood Deadwood Plate (as seen in so many of my illustrations) use the "Clamp-down" method entirely (between Studs) or just to give each unsupported Hole some wood purchase.



Craig Peer said:


> Chief makes about 20 different ceiling plates, if the CMA101 doesn't float your boat - http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/Plates


Yeah, but each and every Chief Ceiling Bracket is extremely overpriced in comparison. And they just don't have anything similar to the low profile, wider base Peerless, otherwise I'd stick wholly to Chief.


----------



## Craig Peer

gene4ht said:


> For those interested, here is the link to the PJ/DV information that @Craig Peer is referencing....thx Craig!
> 
> It appears the technical aspects of implementing DV in PJs is an acknowledged challenge. I choose to believe most anything can be overcome. The question is...at what cost and in what timeframe? From the input and comments in the thread, I disagree with "maybe never" but would agree with "not anytime too soon."
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...041-dolby-vision-coming-front-projectors.html


Anything is possible. In fact Kris is going to discuss this with Dolby at Cedia this year. If it can be done, look for it in the $20K and up projectors first ! 

That said, I'm getting damn good results with the Panasonic UB900 now - light years ahead of a year ago when all we had was the Samsung 4K player.


----------



## jwhn

Craig Peer said:


> That said, I'm getting damn good results with the Panasonic UB900 now - light years ahead of a year ago when all we had was the Samsung 4K player.


Hi Craig,

I am actually test driving both the UB900 and the Samsung K8500 right now. I'm curious, from your perspective, what is light years apart between the two? Not a challenge, just trying to understand.

I actually can't tell the difference in the picture quality. I do understand that only the UB900 has the dynamic range slider. I'm still playing with that. So far, I'm not sure I really need it and whether this feature is worth the larger investment. 

Also, for those who own the UB900 - are you able to stream Netflix HDR? It is not working for me. I have the latest firmware (1.73). The Samsung is able to stream HDR with both Netflix and Amazon so I don't think the problem is with my set up.

If so, does the dynamic range slider work for Netflix also? Or does that only work for UHD disks?

Thanks for any input.


----------



## darkangelism

MississippiMan said:


> That is a older Image. All Peerless Ceiling Plates have 4 Holes now. I'll have to take one myself and attach it to my Attachment files.
> 
> Dependent upon the PJ in use, and how precise the center of the Ceiling Plate must be in respect to the PJ's Lens position, I / you / someone can either line up two holes on a Stud, either to one side with two holes using Anchors, or with 2 Holes centered on a Stud and each side hole using a Anchor.
> 
> If Attic Access is available, one can install a Plywood Deadwood Plate (as seen in so many of my illustrations) use the "Clamp-down" method entirely (between Studs) or just to give each unsupported Hole some wood purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but each and every Chief Ceiling Bracket is extremely overpriced in comparison. And they just don't have anything similar to the low profile, wider base Peerless, otherwise I'd stick wholly to Chief.


Thanks, Yeah, I have the Chief bracket, but low profile didn't really matter I have over a two foot drop anyway because of a 12 foot ceiling. I just have a couple friends that might also buy a PJ and they have less space to work with.


----------



## gene4ht

Craig Peer said:


> Anything is possible. In fact Kris is going to discuss this with Dolby at Cedia this year. If it can be done, look for it in the $20K and up projectors first !


Will be watching developments with interest...but will wait for the emergence of a sub $20K product! 



Craig Peer said:


> That said, I'm getting damn good results with the Panasonic UB900 now - light years ahead of a year ago when all we had was the Samsung 4K player.


Have you personally compared the Panny to the Oppo? I'm primarily interested in improving current HDR performance (too dark) without stripping HDR, adding external hardware (HD Fury), and constantly experimenting/changing settings. In other words, put in an UHD BluRay and watch. If the 900's Dynamic Range Slider can accomplish this with good results and w/o fanfare, I'm very tempted to give it a try.


----------



## bommai

gene4ht said:


> That "should" be fine...if you can, please post a picture of what you receive.




Shall I suggest in eBay search "Epson CHF4500"? That is the mount that Epson bundles with the 6040UB. I bought one for $139 and free shipping. Came with ceiling plate, rod, the mount, and the adapter plate for the 5040 (it screws into all 9 holes in the projector). 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

gene4ht said:


> Will be watching developments with interest...but will wait for the emergence of a sub $20K product!
> 
> 
> 
> Have you personally compared the Panny to the Oppo? I'm primarily interested in improving current HDR performance (too dark) without stripping HDR, adding external hardware (HD Fury), and constantly experimenting/changing settings. In other words, put in an UHD BluRay and watch. If the 900's Dynamic Range Slider can accomplish this with good results and w/o fanfare, I'm very tempted to give it a try.


If it weren't for price, I would expect a lot of Philips 7501's to go up for sale on the secondary markets. 

Does anyone know a good secondary sale site where I may be able to find a good deal on a UB900?


----------



## Craig Peer

gene4ht said:


> Will be watching developments with interest...but will wait for the emergence of a sub $20K product!
> 
> 
> 
> Have you personally compared the Panny to the Oppo? I'm primarily interested in improving current HDR performance (too dark) without stripping HDR, adding external hardware (HD Fury), and constantly experimenting/changing settings. * In other words, put in an UHD BluRay and watch. If the 900's Dynamic Range Slider can accomplish this with good results and w/o fanfare, I'm very tempted to give it a try*.


Even though I've been an Oppo fan ( sold my 103 not long ago ), it's ( the 203 ) had too many problems on initial release. I did have the Samsung 4K player, but the build quality was poor. I did use an HD Fury in the beginning ( HDR was way too dark / problematic ), but it's not needed at this point ( with my setup ). The Dynamic Range Slider does work extremely well - no complaints. I find that on my screen size etc., +4 is perfect. No fiddling - just watching 4K Blu-rays !


----------



## Umar_Naseer

Anyone else notice judder during panning shots?


----------



## gene4ht

bommai said:


> Shall I suggest in eBay search "Epson CHF4500"? That is the mount that Epson bundles with the 6040UB. I bought one for $139 and free shipping. Came with ceiling plate, rod, the mount, and the adapter plate for the 5040 (it screws into all 9 holes in the projector).


The "Epson" CHF4500 kit appears very similar...and pricing is commensurate.


----------



## Craig Peer

jwhn said:


> Hi Craig,
> 
> I am actually test driving both the UB900 and the Samsung K8500 right now. I'm curious, from your perspective, what is light years apart between the two? Not a challenge, just trying to understand.
> 
> I actually can't tell the difference in the picture quality. I do understand that only the UB900 has the dynamic range slider. I'm still playing with that. So far, I'm not sure I really need it and whether this feature is worth the larger investment.
> 
> Also, for those who own the UB900 - are you able to stream Netflix HDR? It is not working for me. I have the latest firmware (1.73). The Samsung is able to stream HDR with both Netflix and Amazon so I don't think the problem is with my set up.
> 
> If so, does the dynamic range slider work for Netflix also? Or does that only work for UHD disks?
> 
> Thanks for any input.


I had the Samsung - the remote and build quality in general were so so. The UB900 is so much easier menu wise - the 3 user settings can be programmed for different settings. I have one set up with a little noise reduction on for Blu-rays with lots of video noise, one untouched setting wise for 4K etc. 
Here's a comparison of the two players - https://www.soundandvision.com/content/panasonic-dmp-ub900-ultra-hd-blu-ray-player

I can't comment on streaming - I don't do any !


----------



## Evan201

Umar_Naseer said:


> Anyone else notice judder during panning shots?


Which streaming box and apps are you using? The major apps should have no judder if PJ is set to 24hz. 

For youtube 4k/60p enjoyment, I switched my settings in the Shield TV to 4k/59hz. This brings color to 8 bit 4:2:0 Rec.709 but holy cow the motion is outstanding on those 4k/60hz youtube videos. 

I don't notice any judder on blu ray dics or amazon/netflix apps. For streaming the Nvidia Shield TV is the obvious choice because of the capability to lock out certain refresh rates, 4k settings, and color depths.


----------



## gene4ht

Evan201 said:


> If it weren't for price, I would expect a lot of Philips 7501's to go up for sale on the secondary markets.34


I also have a Philips 7501 and will be keeping it for back up and/or use in a different system. I was fortunate enough to have found it at a local Black Friday sale for $129. It is a very capable player even at its normal $229 price point!



Evan201 said:


> Does anyone know a good secondary sale site where I may be able to find a *good deal on a UB900*?


I've looked...haven't found "deals" on new units. Ebay has refurbs in the $400+ range.

https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=282301081374&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps


----------



## Umar_Naseer

I'm using an OPPO 203. The image is of the PJ's info while watching a 4k disc.


----------



## Evan201

Umar_Naseer said:


> I'm using an OPPO 203. The image is of the PJ's info while watching a 4k disc.


Are you using strip metadata on the Oppo? Seems you should be getting full HDR signal and you're showing SDR right now. 
I see zero issues with judder when playing any physical disc through my Philips player.


----------



## gene4ht

Craig Peer said:


> Even though I've been an Oppo fan ( sold my 103 not long ago ), it's ( the 203 ) had too many problems on initial release. I did have the Samsung 4K player, but the build quality was poor. I did use an HD Fury in the beginning ( HDR was way too dark / problematic ), but it's not needed at this point ( with my setup ). *The Dynamic Range Slider does work extremely well* - no complaints. I find that on my screen size etc., +4 is perfect. *No fiddling - just watching 4K Blu-rays !*


That's exactly where I want to be...I'll likely test drive a 900 then. Thx!


----------



## Craig Peer

gene4ht said:


> That's exactly where I want to be...I'll likely test drive a 900 then. Thx!


Trust me - I was in at the " endless fiddling " beginning of 4K Blu-ray and projectors. I can say those days are over. Which is good - I have 7 or 8 people coming tonight to watch " La La Land " in 4K !


----------



## Evan201

Craig Peer said:


> Trust me - I was in at the " endless fiddling " beginning of 4K Blu-ray and projectors. I can say those days are over. Which is good - I have 7 or 8 people coming tonight to watch " La La Land " in 4K !


Movie parties are the most rewarding for us PJ owners.


----------



## gene4ht

Craig Peer said:


> Trust me - I was in at the " endless fiddling " beginning of 4K Blu-ray and projectors. I can say those days are over. Which is good - I have 7 or 8 people coming tonight to watch " La La Land " in 4K !





Evan201 said:


> Movie parties are the most rewarding for us PJ owners.


+1 

Pass the popcorn!!!


----------



## Craig Peer

Evan201 said:


> Movie parties are the most rewarding for us PJ owners.


That's my whole reason for having a home theater !


----------



## inspector

bommai said:


> Shall I suggest in eBay search "Epson CHF4500"? That is the mount that Epson bundles with the 6040UB. I bought one for $139 and free shipping. Came with ceiling plate, rod, the mount, and the adapter plate for the 5040 (it screws into all 9 holes in the projector).
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's $259 plus shipping and has been that way for over a month. Maybe that's why it hasn't sold..


----------



## bommai

inspector said:


> It's $259 plus shipping and has been that way for over a month. Maybe that's why it hasn't sold..



There was a different seller that had one for $139 free shipping new in box. I got that. They might get more. Keep an eye out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

bommai said:


> There was a different seller that had one for $139 free shipping new in box. I got that. They might get more. Keep an eye out.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well, I have one for sale in the classified section of this forum under "Assessories" for the price I offered you awhile back.


----------



## robc1976

Qurstion guys, I have the Phillips 4K Blu-ray player but just picked up sony UPB-X800 Blu-ray player for wife and its bigger, looks better and fits my rack better. Will this have any compatibility issues with the 5040ub?


----------



## Evan201

robc1976 said:


> Qurstion guys, I have the Phillips 4K Blu-ray player but just picked up sony UPB-X800 Blu-ray player for wife and its bigger, looks better and fits my rack better. Will this have any compatibility issues with the 5040ub?


I hear you should be good to go. 4k/HDR BT2020 12 Bit 23.9hz should be your target.


----------



## robc1976

Evan201 said:


> I hear you should be good to go. 4k/HDR BT2020 12 Bit 23.9hz should be your target.


 Great news! I haven't even got into settings yet, I just got the philips because people In this thread daid it works well but didn't see the sony mentioned here so had no idea, I believe its a fairly new player.


----------



## Evan201

robc1976 said:


> Great news! I haven't even got into settings yet, I just got the philips because people In this thread daid it works well but didn't see the sony mentioned here so had no idea, I believe its a fairly new player.


See this post. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-261.html#post52617625


----------



## Evan201

Most people probably already know this, but I am now receiving HDR from Netflix through my Nvidia shield box. 

Just have to set the Shield to 4k/59hz which turns color into 8 bit Rec 709 4:2:0, but it allows Netflix HDR.


----------



## robc1976

Evan201 said:


> See this post. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-261.html#post52617625


 awesome! Wife is getting that tiny philips lol! Its awesome but so damn small lol!


----------



## bommai

inspector said:


> Well, I have one for sale in the classified section of this forum under "Assessories" for the price I offered you awhile back.




Hmm. I thought you sold yours already! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

Evan201 said:


> Most people probably already know this, but I am now receiving HDR from Netflix through my Nvidia shield box.
> 
> Just have to set the Shield to 4k/59hz which turns color into 8 bit Rec 709 4:2:0, but it allows Netflix HDR.



With my Samsung k8500, I am getting4:2:2 Bt2020 hdr at 24hz for Netflix and Amazon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

followed instructions on epson website for updating the projector and it's not working. Could someone guide me through the firmware update process


----------



## bommai

SALadder22FF said:


> followed instructions on epson website for updating the projector and it's not working. Could someone guide me through the firmware update process




Format a USB stick using fat32 format. Put the file into the root directory of this USB drive. 

Unplug the projector. Plug the USB drive into the USB port. While holding the side power button on the projector, plug the projector into the outlet. Continue to hold the side power button for a few more seconds. The blue led light on the projector will blink. Remove your finger from the button and leave the projector alone for a few minutes. The projector will turn itself off after it is done. Now turn on the projector. It should be updated. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

My third projector came two days ago and I tested it. The color uniformity is not as bad as the second one but is still there. But I think I am going to keep this one. Just getting tired if being that picky. But I wish the colors would be uniform. Has anyone else seen it this bad. I am playing the pure white movie in you tube. I am using either natural or cinema. I think my first one was not this bad except for the dust blob. Also my third one already had the 109 firmware in it. I think I am going to mail out the second one tomorrow and hold on to this one.


----------



## inspector

bommai said:


> Hmm. I thought you sold yours already!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




PM sent.


----------



## Dave Harper

Craig Peer said:


> paging dave harper, paging dave harper.................



Sorry I'm here! I've been pretty busy at work on some rigging calls and other fun events! I've also been really sick the last few days and I'm now coughing up blood today! I'm about to head up to the doctor now. Wish me luck and say some prayers!



gene4ht said:


> Will be watching developments with interest...but will wait for the emergence of a sub $20K product!
> 
> Have you personally compared the Panny to the Oppo? I'm primarily interested in improving current HDR performance (too dark) without stripping HDR, adding external hardware (HD Fury), and constantly experimenting/changing settings. In other words, put in an UHD BluRay and watch. If the 900's Dynamic Range Slider can accomplish this with good results and w/o fanfare, I'm very tempted to give it a try.



I suggest you try my Harper vision settings first. You don't need an HD fury with the 5040 since you can manually put it in SDR mode. 



Evan201 said:


> Most people probably already know this, but I am now receiving HDR from Netflix through my Nvidia shield box.
> 
> Just have to set the Shield to 4k/59hz which turns color into 8 bit Rec 709 4:2:0, but it allows Netflix HDR.



I don't believe it can be HDR if it only has eight bit color depth and rec 709. Those need to be minimum 10 bit and rec 2020.



Evan201 said:


> So is HarperVision combined with UB900 HDR slider optimal, or is regular HDR signal with HDR slider best?



I personally use the Harpervision settings and not any UB900 slider adjustments and I have also compared that to being in the regular HDR mode and using the slider some and at least in my theater and in my opinion the Harper vision settings were better.



Spyderturbo007 said:


> I've never seen Natural Mode? Is this like switching from Digital Cinema to Cinema?
> 
> Would applying your settings to Digital Cinema and then leaving Cinema to my current settings allow me to bounce back and forth when I switch sources? For example, Digital Cinema for 4K UHD and Cinema for 1080p BluRay?


Yes it is just another display mode and I think it should work that way for you. I'm pretty sure that's what I do although I haven't watch much HDTV or regular Blu-rays on it. 



panman40 said:


> @ Dave Harper,
> 
> 
> 
> Dave did you come by your dig cinema gamma just by eye or did you use software/meter ?, when I finally got around to inputting them last night I was curious when I got to points 9 and 10 which are well into the + side compared to the ire below those points being all -
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just curious ?



I used the combination of both. I calibrated grayscale and did some CMS work and then went back in with known scenes from UHD movies like the revenant, Ghostbusters, Star Trek beyond, etc. and then went back and forth with gamma settings. It made it easy because the setting you have selected flashes on the screen in the image you were looking at so you can just keep going back and forth until all of the sudden it pops in and you are like holy crap!


----------



## adamhw

I'm having trouble getting hdr signal. I have Samsung ubd 8500, also denon 4300h. I tried all the settings I could find and even bypassed the denon, so it's not that. I get 4K but only 709 sdr. I'm using Samsung Netflix and amazon. Any ideas on something that could be missed. I have binary hdmi with Ethernet, it was top of the line 5 years ago and is about 50% thicker than power cord, probably 40-50 feet. 

Ty




bommai said:


> My third projector came two days ago and I tested it. The color uniformity is not as bad as the second one but is still there. But I think I am going to keep this one. Just getting tired if being that picky. But I wish the colors would be uniform. Has anyone else seen it this bad. I am playing the pure white movie in you tube. I am using either natural or cinema. I think my first one was not this bad except for the dust blob. Also my third one already had the 109 firmware in it. I think I am going to mail out the second one tomorrow and hold on to this one.



I'm glad u got something acceptable I still can't PM, but local to u.


----------



## bommai

adamhw said:


> I'm having trouble getting hdr signal. I have Samsung ubd 8500, also denon 4300h. I tried all the settings I could find and even bypassed the denon, so it's not that. I get 4K but only 709 sdr. I'm using Samsung Netflix and amazon. Any ideas on something that could be missed. I have binary hdmi with Ethernet, it was top of the line 5 years ago and is about 50% thicker than power cord, probably 40-50 feet.
> 
> 
> 
> Ty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad u got something acceptable I still can't PM, but local to u.



I have the Samsung 8500 uhd player as well and I am getting hdr from 4k disc, Amazon and Netflix. All of these are coming in at 24hz. Make sure you are using hdmi 1 input on the projector. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## adamhw

bommai said:


> I have the Samsung 8500 uhd player as well and I am getting hdr from 4k disc, Amazon and Netflix. All of these are coming in at 24hz. Make sure you are using hdmi 1 input on the projector.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Have that, ty. Still just says sdr on info


----------



## Skylinestar

Craig Peer said:


> Anything is possible. In fact Kris is going to discuss this with Dolby at Cedia this year. If it can be done, look for it in the $20K and up projectors first !
> 
> That said, I'm getting damn good results with the Panasonic UB900 now - light years ahead of a year ago when all we had was the Samsung 4K player.


I don't need the extreme brightness, but the extreme black level is tough to achieve with projector.

How many light years ahead of the Oppo 203 (current firmware)?



Craig Peer said:


> Dolby Vision only works by knowing exactly how bright a display is - which is possible with a flat panel HDTV. Not possible with a projector. Kris Deering ( Sound and Vision Magazine ) has stated many times ( in the $ 3000+ projector section ) that it is probably not possible, and DV has no plans for projectors. TV's only.


Sigh as we are expecting to turn our house into Dolby Cinema


----------



## panman40

Hope you get well soon Dave Harper, best wishes.


----------



## Dave Harper

panman40 said:


> Hope you get well soon Dave Harper, best wishes.



Thank you! That means a lot. 

I'm on antibiotics and have a chest X-ray scheduled for tomorrow. I'm sorry if I haven't kept up.


----------



## Lesmor

panman40 said:


> Hope you get well soon Dave Harper, best wishes.


+1 I have been following your very interesting posts,get well soon


----------



## Lesmor

bommai said:


> My third projector came two days ago and I tested it. The color uniformity is not as bad as the second one but is still there. But I think I am going to keep this one. Just getting tired if being that picky. But I wish the colors would be uniform. Has anyone else seen it this bad. I am playing the pure white movie in you tube. I am using either natural or cinema. I think my first one was not this bad except for the dust blob. Also my third one already had the 109 firmware in it. I think I am going to mail out the second one tomorrow and hold on to this one.


Complete stab in the dark as I am a newbie to this projector other might pipe in but have you tried panel alignment?
Of course I could be way off the mark


----------



## achanonier

gene4ht said:


> If I'm understanding you correctly, you prefer the Panny Dynamic Range Slider over all the other settings you have tried?


Yes I do !


----------



## akgolf

Dave Harper said:


> Thank you! That means a lot.
> 
> I'm on antibiotics and have a chest X-ray scheduled for tomorrow. I'm sorry if I haven't kept up.




Wish you the best of luck Dave. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Rob V

robc1976 said:


> Qurstion guys, I have the Phillips 4K Blu-ray player but just picked up sony UPB-X800 Blu-ray player for wife and its bigger, looks better and fits my rack better. Will this have any compatibility issues with the 5040ub?


I have the X800 and have had no issues at all with my 5040. Enjoy!


----------



## bommai

Lesmor said:


> Complete stab in the dark as I am a newbie to this projector other might pipe in but have you tried panel alignment?
> 
> Of course I could be way off the mark



Actually panel alignment is to align the 3 panels. Color uniformity adjustments are meant for this but it is not able to adjust this much variation. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Dave Harper said:


> I've also been really sick the last few days and I'm now coughing up blood today! I'm about to head up to the doctor now. Wish me luck and say some prayers!


Also adding my "Get well soon!"



Dave Harper said:


> I suggest you try my Harper vision settings first. You don't need an HD fury with the 5040 since you can manually put it in SDR mode.
> 
> I personally use the Harpervision settings and not any UB900 slider adjustments and I have also compared that to being in the regular HDR mode and using the slider some and at least in my theater and in my opinion the Harper vision settings were better.


I'll be trying both...your settings and the slider...thx Dave!


----------



## aaranddeeman

gene4ht said:


> Also adding my "Get well soon!"


Adding my prayers for Dave..


----------



## panman40

bommai said:


> Actually panel alignment is to align the 3 panels. Color uniformity adjustments are meant for this but it is not able to adjust this much variation.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have some uneven uniformity but if that's the best you can adjust it I would still not be happy with that myself.


----------



## Lesmor

bommai said:


> Actually panel alignment is to align the 3 panels. Color uniformity adjustments are meant for this but it is not able to adjust this much variation.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My bad 
See I told you I wasn't up to speed and I picked the wrong description
It had the desired result though as in you were aware of and have tried those options.


----------



## bommai

I would like some more people with 5040ub projectors to watch some of the white movies from you tube and post their findings. Am I the only one having these color uniformity problems or is it inherent to this projector? Also with my third projector my Samsung k8500 player loses video every few minutes. I did not have this problem with projector 1 and 2. Yikes. It could be just my hdmi cable unplugging and re plugging. If not, then I have to contact Epson again 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

bommai said:


> I would like some more people with 5040ub projectors to watch some of the white movies from you tube and post their findings. Am I the only one having these color uniformity problems or is it inherent to this projector? Also with my third projector my Samsung k8500 player loses video every few minutes. I did not have this problem with projector 1 and 2. Yikes. It could be just my hdmi cable unplugging and re plugging. If not, then I have to contact Epson again
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If it was me I would contact them again and say your really not happy, I'm sceptical if you have received a brand new unit. Now you have 2 problems.


----------



## Craig Peer

Dave Harper said:


> Thank you! That means a lot.
> 
> I'm on antibiotics and have a chest X-ray scheduled for tomorrow. I'm sorry if I haven't kept up.


Get better bro. I seem to have caught a lovely spring chest cold too. Lovely !


----------



## bommai

panman40 said:


> If it was me I would contact them again and say your really not happy, I'm sceptical if you have received a brand new unit. Now you have 2 problems.




They claimed it was new. The part number starts with N. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Rob V said:


> I have the X800 and have had no issues at all with my 5040. Enjoy!


 awesome, looks like a nice player


----------



## sddp

Evan201 said:


> EVERYONE WITH 3D glasses, go buy this for $15 and use these 3d settings.
> Just amazing.
> 
> 3D Brightness High
> Lamp - High
> 
> ENJOY.
> 
> uploadcertificity.com
> 
> screen shotcertificity.com





WHOA!!


It's on clearance at BestBuy for $14.99


You get this in 4K AND 3D!


Thanks for sharing


----------



## Evan201

sddp said:


> WHOA!!
> 
> 
> It's on clearance at BestBuy for $14.99
> 
> 
> You get this in 4K AND 3D!
> 
> 
> Thanks for sharing


I know a lot of people have been disliking 3d on this PJ, but Avatar, Titanic, and Journey To Space have looked AMAZING for me so far. Maybe its the glasses I'm using, but even High 3D Brightness looks amazing on Titanic and JTS. For avatar I brought it down to Medium 3D brightness. Titanic may be my favorite so far.


----------



## Bob Sorel

> Am I the only one having these color uniformity problems or is it inherent to this projector?


Have you seen ANY projector on that screen which displayed proper uniformity? I have owned a couple of screens in the past where the color shift happened in the screen, not the projector, so I would be very careful before blaming the projector unless I had confirmed that the screen was perfectly uniform.


----------



## bommai

Bob Sorel said:


> Have you seen ANY projector on that screen which displayed proper uniformity? I have owned a couple of screens in the past where the color shift happened in the screen, not the projector, so I would be very careful before blaming the projector unless I had confirmed that the screen was perfectly uniform.



My first 5040ub had a dust blob but no color uniformity issues. My old Epson 1080ub had slight patches of color uniformity issues but nothing like this one where one side is greenish. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ricksastro

For photography, you can get a magenta/green shift in objects in front of or behind the in-focus place due to Longitudinal Chromatic Aberration. It may be that the projector isn't exactly square and/or the screen isn't exactly flat causing some of this. 

You can test this by moving the screen or tilting the projector slightly and seeing if the unevenness changes in any way. If it changes, you'll likely be able to resolve this on your own. If it doesn't change, then maybe it could be a slight variance in the projector itself.



bommai said:


> My first 5040ub had a dust blob but no color uniformity issues. My old Epson 1080ub had slight patches of color uniformity issues but nothing like this one where one side is greenish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

ricksastro said:


> For photography, you can get a magenta/green shift in objects in front of or behind the in-focus place due to Longitudinal Chromatic Aberration. It may be that the projector isn't exactly square and/or the screen isn't exactly flat causing some of this.
> 
> 
> 
> You can test this by moving the screen or tilting the projector slightly and seeing if the unevenness changes in any way. If it changes, you'll likely be able to resolve this on your own. If it doesn't change, then maybe it could be a slight variance in the projector itself.



I am pretty sure it is the projector itself because when i flipped the projector to ceiling mount it, all the green went to the other side of the screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

bommai said:


> I am pretty sure it is the projector itself because when i flipped the projector to ceiling mount it, all the green went to the other side of the screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have mentioned this before. Have you tried adjusting color uniformity (not panel alignment)?
It may be as simple as adjusting it than getting another replacement and then another..
Also high contrast tend to introduce color cast, so make sure the contrast is around 50 (and not 100 as used in Harpervision) when you check it.


----------



## cdnmiggy

Dave Harper said:


> Thank you! That means a lot.
> 
> I'm on antibiotics and have a chest X-ray scheduled for tomorrow. I'm sorry if I haven't kept up.


I hope you return to form soon. Best wishes!!


----------



## panman40

bommai said:


> I am pretty sure it is the projector itself because when i flipped the projector to ceiling mount it, all the green went to the other side of the screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What happens if you go from Eco lamp ( from a cold start) to mid then high, does the uniformity change ?.

If that's the best you can achieve using the onboard tool to correct it that projector is not suitable for calibration, I still say just get it back to Epson before anymore time passes.


----------



## bommai

aaranddeeman said:


> I have mentioned this before. Have you tried adjusting color uniformity (not panel alignment)?
> 
> It may be as simple as adjusting it than getting another replacement and then another..
> 
> Also high contrast tend to introduce color cast, so make sure the contrast is around 50 (and not 100 as used in Harpervision) when you check it.



Yes I used natural mode default to check. Everything was set to 50% by default. I fiddled with the color uniformity controls. I was able to make it better but not completely get rid of. As I said, I think I am going to hold on to the third one unless there is an unrelated hdmi issue as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ricksastro

bommai said:


> I am pretty sure it is the projector itself because when i flipped the projector to ceiling mount it, all the green went to the other side of the screen.


That would likely eliminate the screen as the culprit, but not necessarily the projector depending on how you flipped it. Be worth it to try to adjust the squareness horizontally a little back and forth and see if that changes the color shift in any way...should be easy to see in real time. Certainly better than sending the projector back again.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Count me in as a more than satisfied user of the Harpervision Experience. 

At first I didn't know what I was doing wrong as I copied the settings exactly and popped in a 4k nature disc and it looked way oversatured and not good at all. Found out that his was because this particular disc wasn't sending an HDR signal, only 4k.

I gave it another shot on Pacific Rim 4K with HDR last night. Absolutely blown away by the incredible color, deep blacks and stunning overall color. Lately I've been focusing on the 7.1 Klipsch surround I have and enjoying that, but honestly this image took the cake last night. (BTW Pacific Rim 7.1 shaking the walls in my living room was truly a spectacle to hear)

After we watched I tried using Digital Cinema vs the Harpervision just to see the difference, and honestly it was like going from HD to SD. I'm enclosing those pics for reference taken with Galaxy S7 Edge.

Finally, Dave, do you have settings for non HDR 4k and/or 1080p/cable settings. I would love to get the most out of these when HDR is not available.

Thank you Dave! and best wishes for your health.


----------



## BRADH

*flickering or flashing*

Last week I starting seeing what looks like a flickering or flashing. It is easily seen in bright senses of the sky or something like that. It can also been seen on the projectors test screen ( the blue one for focus etc.) in eco mode. Switching to med or high the flickering goes away. Back too eco mode and it comes back. I didn't notice this until last week about 400hrs. on the lamp. 






I called Epson and they think the projector has a problem and not the lamp. They will exchange it for me. I want to see what you guys think. My projector is great in every other way. I have seen some here have went thought several projectors in there exchanges with Epson before they got a good one. 


Thanks in advance


Brad


----------



## Evan201

SALadder22FF said:


> After we watched I tried using Digital Cinema vs the Harpervision just to see the difference, and honestly it was like going from HD to SD. I'm enclosing those pics for reference taken with Galaxy S7 Edge.
> .


I'm confused by this statement. HarperVision settings require Digital Cinema. What do you mean Digi Cin vs. Harpervision?


----------



## SALadder22FF

Evan201 said:


> I'm confused by this statement. HarperVision settings require Digital Cinema. What do you mean Digi Cin vs. Harpervision?


Digi Cin with no extra settings like the constrast, gamma...everything set to default.


----------



## Evan201

SALadder22FF said:


> Digi Cin with no extra settings like the constrast, gamma...everything set to default.


OH Gotchya. I'm trying to figure out why my Digital Cinema comes off too dim even after HV settings vs. everyone elses that looks much brighter. Maybe its my Cinegrey 5D ALR screen. 
Maybe I need to try a white screen soon.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Evan201 said:


> I'm confused by this statement. HarperVision settings require Digital Cinema. What do you mean Digi Cin vs. Harpervision?





Evan201 said:


> OH Gotchya. I'm trying to figure out why my Digital Cinema comes off too dim even after HV settings vs. everyone elses that looks much brighter. Maybe its my Cinegrey 5D ALR screen.
> Maybe I need to try a white screen soon.


Possibly. I am using a SI Black Diamond 1.4 gain ALR screen and it did amazing. Can't say enough about how great Pacific Rim looked. I really wanna try Planet Earth II with HDR now. I watched it on DirecTV 4K channel as it came out, but I feel now that the HDR will add to it greatly.


----------



## Evan201

I'll have to take some screen shots to compare harpervision to my other HDR ---> SDR settings tonight and post for your guys opinions. 
I tried again with Fantastic Beasts last night flipping between Harpervision and my other HDR ---SDR Bright Cinema settings and I cant see a benefit to HV. Seems darker and less rich colors. I'm also getting better brightness and colors using ECO mode rather than High Lamp required for HV settings. Not sure what's going on here. 

I don't know what i'm doing wrong other than the possibility of my screen causing the color and brightness shift.


----------



## Evan201

SALadder22FF said:


> Count me in as a more than satisfied user of the Harpervision Experience.
> 
> At first I didn't know what I was doing wrong as I copied the settings exactly and popped in a 4k nature disc and it looked way oversatured and not good at all. Found out that his was because this particular disc wasn't sending an HDR signal, only 4k.
> 
> I gave it another shot on Pacific Rim 4K with HDR last night. Absolutely blown away by the incredible color, deep blacks and stunning overall color. Lately I've been focusing on the 7.1 Klipsch surround I have and enjoying that, but honestly this image took the cake last night. (BTW Pacific Rim 7.1 shaking the walls in my living room was truly a spectacle to hear)
> 
> After we watched I tried using Digital Cinema vs the Harpervision just to see the difference, and honestly it was like going from HD to SD. I'm enclosing those pics for reference taken with Galaxy S7 Edge.
> 
> Finally, Dave, do you have settings for non HDR 4k and/or 1080p/cable settings. I would love to get the most out of these when HDR is not available.
> 
> Thank you Dave! and best wishes for your health.


So the left screen shot is HDR with factory digital cinema settings and the right is Harper vision digital cinema? 
The color looks like SDR 709 on left and HDR 2020 on right.


----------



## Dave Harper

akgolf said:


> Wish you the best of luck Dave.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





cdnmiggy said:


> I hope you return to form soon. Best wishes!!






gene4ht said:


> Also adding my "Get well soon!"
> 
> I'll be trying both...your settings and the slider...thx Dave!





aaranddeeman said:


> Adding my prayers for Dave..





Craig Peer said:


> Get better bro. I seem to have caught a lovely spring chest cold too. Lovely !





SALadder22FF said:


> Count me in as a more than satisfied user of the Harpervision Experience.
> 
> 
> 
> At first I didn't know what I was doing wrong as I copied the settings exactly and popped in a 4k nature disc and it looked way oversatured and not good at all. Found out that his was because this particular disc wasn't sending an HDR signal, only 4k.
> 
> 
> 
> I gave it another shot on Pacific Rim 4K with HDR last night. Absolutely blown away by the incredible color, deep blacks and stunning overall color. Lately I've been focusing on the 7.1 Klipsch surround I have and enjoying that, but honestly this image took the cake last night. (BTW Pacific Rim 7.1 shaking the walls in my living room was truly a spectacle to hear)
> 
> 
> 
> After we watched I tried using Digital Cinema vs the Harpervision just to see the difference, and honestly it was like going from HD to SD. I'm enclosing those pics for reference taken with Galaxy S7 Edge.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, Dave, do you have settings for non HDR 4k and/or 1080p/cable settings. I would love to get the most out of these when HDR is not available.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Dave! and best wishes for your health.


Thanks everyone for your concerns. Another long night awake, hacking up a lung! 

I'll be fine. I've been through much worse. 

For non-HDR 4K and 1080i/p sources, just use rec709 calibrations as normal and I recommend using Natural mode.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Evan201 said:


> I'll have to take some screen shots to compare harpervision to my other HDR ---> SDR settings tonight and post for your guys opinions.
> I tried again with Fantastic Beasts last night flipping between Harpervision and my other HDR ---SDR Bright Cinema settings and I cant see a benefit to HV. Seems darker and less rich colors. I'm also getting better brightness and colors using ECO mode rather than High Lamp required for HV settings. Not sure what's going on here.
> 
> I don't know what i'm doing wrong other than the possibility of my screen causing the color and brightness shift.


But in BrightCinema, you will lose the p3 filter.
Could you also point to the post# where you have posted your BrightCinema settings? I can give it a shot to see and compare as well.


----------



## Evan201

aaranddeeman said:


> But in BrightCinema, you will lose the p3 filter.
> Could you also point to the post# where you have posted your BrightCinema settings? I can give it a shot to see and compare as well.


Here you go. Have at it. I have since lowered brightness to 41 FYI. If you could copy these settings and do a screen shot of the exact same scene in Pacific Rim that would be awesome. I'm going home tonight with Pacific Rim to try and mimic your results for that same scene. 
(EDIT) Whoops didn't realize you're a different person than the guy who posted the Pacific Rim shots a few posts back. 
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-257.html#post52526265


----------



## BRADH

BRADH said:


> Last week I starting seeing what looks like a flickering or flashing. It is easily seen in bright senses of the sky or something like that. It can also been seen on the projectors test screen ( the blue one for focus etc.) in eco mode. Switching to med or high the flickering goes away. Back too eco mode and it comes back. I didn't notice this until last week about 400hrs. on the lamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called Epson and they think the projector has a problem and not the lamp. They will exchange it for me. I want to see what you guys think. My projector is great in every other way. I have seen some here have went thought several projectors in there exchanges with Epson before they got a good one.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> Brad



I do have a 4 sec video of this. I cant upload it here, but I can email to anyone if that helps


Brad


----------



## aaranddeeman

Evan201 said:


> Here you go. Have at it. I have since lowered brightness to 41 FYI. If you could copy these settings and do a screen shot of the exact same scene in Pacific Rim that would be awesome. I'm going home tonight with Pacific Rim to try and mimic your results for that same scene.
> (EDIT) Whoops didn't realize you're a different person than the guy who posted the Pacific Rim shots a few posts back.
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-257.html#post52526265


Could you please give the post#. The link takes me to the top of this page.

Edit : I believe it's post 7279?


----------



## Evan201

aaranddeeman said:


> Could you please give the post#. The link takes me to the top of this page.


Damn takes me right to it. You'll have to use a computer or laptop for it to work. Phone app may not work right, but anyway here is the post number : 

*post #7689* of 8011


----------



## panman40

BRADH said:


> Last week I starting seeing what looks like a flickering or flashing. It is easily seen in bright senses of the sky or something like that. It can also been seen on the projectors test screen ( the blue one for focus etc.) in eco mode. Switching to med or high the flickering goes away. Back too eco mode and it comes back. I didn't notice this until last week about 400hrs. on the lamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I called Epson and they think the projector has a problem and not the lamp. They will exchange it for me. I want to see what you guys think. My projector is great in every other way. I have seen some here have went thought several projectors in there exchanges with Epson before they got a good one.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> Brad


Sounds like typical UHP lamp flicker to me, mine had the same except I had a regular high fan with no pic start up which was annoying, when it did the high fan thing it was accompanied sometimes with the led warning lamp light . I told Epson and they were positive it wasn't a faulty lamp, I left it a week or so then emailed them, a really helpful chap replied to say they were sending me a new lamp and lo and behold I haven't had the 'high fan start up issue since and there's only slight lamp flicker for a few minutes warm up time. I try and use medium lamp now and again to keep the lamp in better shape now.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Evan201 said:


> Damn takes me right to it. You'll have to use a computer or laptop for it to work. Phone app may not work right, but anyway here is the post number :
> 
> *post #7689* of 8011


Thanks.
I am using computer. But it happens to me always. Direct link does not work.


----------



## Evan201

aaranddeeman said:


> Thanks.
> I am using computer. But it happens to me always. Direct link does not work.


Excited to find out if you like these settings as much as I do. I've been using these settings for almost all my UHD discs and find that the color and brightness is fantastic as well as not having to run the lamp on High for decent picture. Keep in mind I'm using a Cinegrey 5D screen 105" at 12 feet and I believe its .8 gain.


----------



## BRADH

panman40 said:


> Sounds like typical UHP lamp flicker to me, mine had the same except I had a regular high fan with no pic start up which was annoying, when it did the high fan thing it was accompanied sometimes with the led warning lamp light . I told Epson and they were positive it wasn't a faulty lamp, I left it a week or so then emailed them, a really helpful chap replied to say they were sending me a new lamp and lo and behold I haven't had the 'high fan start up issue since and there's only slight lamp flicker for a few minutes warm up time. I try and use medium lamp now and again to keep the lamp in better shape now.




Thanks I will watch it tonight and see if I see it on start up. It has only coughs my eye the last week. Do you know what the lamp warranty it? I bought the projector in Feb it has 450-500 hrs on it. 

Thanks
Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## panman40

BRADH said:


> Thanks I will watch it tonight and see if I see it on start up. It has only coughs my eye the last week. Do you know what the lamp warranty it? I bought the projector in Feb it has 450-500 hrs on it.
> 
> Thanks
> Brad
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


You should be well covered under warranty, it's slightly different here in the UK, our TW9300 has a 5 yr warranty for unit and lamp.

I woukd definately try for a new lamp first, you could try running it for an hour in high lamp but I suspect it won't last when you go back to Eco.


----------



## john barlow

Evan201 said:


> I know a lot of people have been disliking 3d on this PJ, but Avatar, Titanic, and Journey To Space have looked AMAZING for me so far. Maybe its the glasses I'm using, but even High 3D Brightness looks amazing on Titanic and JTS. For avatar I brought it down to Medium 3D brightness. Titanic may be my favorite so far.






With this projector, it's the glasses, it's disc dependent and it's also your settings. I find for the most part that 3D is excellent with the Epson 5040. There are exceptions and learning to adjust settings on the fly really helps out in those infrequent occasions, for me.


----------



## john barlow

robc1976 said:


> awesome, looks like a nice player



I am a satisfied Oppo 203 owner and the more I hear or read about the new Sony UHD player, the more I'd like to pick one up as a back up or second player. Priced affordably enough to make it real.


----------



## BRADH

panman40 said:


> You should be well covered under warranty, it's slightly different here in the UK, our TW9300 has a 5 yr warranty for unit and lamp.
> 
> 
> 
> I woukd definately try for a new lamp first, you could try running it for an hour in high lamp but I suspect it won't last when you go back to Eco.




When I had my Samsung sp-a 900 I could count on about 1500 hrs in low lamp mode before it got to dim. Then I replaced the bulb. This is the first time I have seen lamp flicker. 
So are you saying running the lamp in eco can cause this or I just have a bad lamp? I have the spare that came with the projector I could try it. 

When I explained the problem to the Epson tech he said because it doesn't do it in the other modes it was a projector problem not a lamp problem. 

What did you say to get a new lamp when you talked with them. 

Thanks
Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## k3nnis

SALadder22FF said:


> Count me in as a more than satisfied user of the Harpervision Experience.
> 
> 
> 
> At first I didn't know what I was doing wrong as I copied the settings exactly and popped in a 4k nature disc and it looked way oversatured and not good at all. Found out that his was because this particular disc wasn't sending an HDR signal, only 4k.
> 
> 
> 
> I gave it another shot on Pacific Rim 4K with HDR last night. Absolutely blown away by the incredible color, deep blacks and stunning overall color. Lately I've been focusing on the 7.1 Klipsch surround I have and enjoying that, but honestly this image took the cake last night. (BTW Pacific Rim 7.1 shaking the walls in my living room was truly a spectacle to hear)
> 
> 
> 
> After we watched I tried using Digital Cinema vs the Harpervision just to see the difference, and honestly it was like going from HD to SD. I'm enclosing those pics for reference taken with Galaxy S7 Edge.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally, Dave, do you have settings for non HDR 4k and/or 1080p/cable settings. I would love to get the most out of these when HDR is not available.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Dave! and best wishes for your health.




Nice. Is that an elite screen or screen innovations?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

john barlow said:


> With this projector, it's the glasses, it's disc dependent and it's also your settings. *I find for the most part that 3D is excellent with the Epson 5040.* There are exceptions and learning to adjust settings on the fly really helps out in those infrequent occasions, for me.


My 3D experience and position are very similar...

I'm not a 3D aficionado/enthusiast and only experienced home theater 3D recently as a result of acquiring the 5040. Unexpectedly, I've come to enjoy 3D immensely and have purchased 20+ titles and rented more. Although people who know me will say I'm detail oriented and can be very picky, I have not found the 5040's 3D performance at all objectionable. What little ghosting I've experienced has not diminished my or my family's enjoyment. I will agree that glasses, disc mastering, and settings likely contribute to some of the artifacts. Lastly, I would like to thank members @gnolivos and @Stecchino for their early advice and getting me "kick started."


----------



## gene4ht

john barlow said:


> *I am a satisfied Oppo 203 owner* and the more I hear or read about the new Sony UHD player, the more I'd like to pick one up as a back up or second player. Priced affordably enough to make it real.


John...how have you dealt with HDR performance with the 203? Strip HDR metadata? Forced SDR? Integral? HarperVision? Reportedly, the Panny 900, with it's Dynamic Range Slider does an excellent job of improving PQ for PJs in terms of brightness. I may consider giving it a test drive.


----------



## john barlow

gene4ht said:


> John...how have you dealt with HDR performance with the 203? Strip HDR metadata? Forced SDR? Integral? HarperVision? Reportedly, the Panny 900, with it's Dynamic Range Slider does an excellent job of improving PQ for PJs in terms of brightness. I may consider giving it a test drive.


With UHD discs, I set everything to auto and force HDR from the Epson. Works well for almost all discs. For Roku Ultra, I use an Intregal and use my PC to set 4k60 420 8 bit edid. I will not buy a Panny until the price comes down considerably. The reason I may pick up the Sony is it's affordability.
I like, no, love my Oppo 203.


----------



## SALadder22FF

k3nnis said:


> Nice. Is that an elite screen or screen innovations?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It is a Screen Innovations Black Diamond Zero Edge 1.4 120" screen.

I turned the LEDs off cause my phone takes better pics when the LEDs are off.

Dave for your 'standard' rec 709 settings are those standard in the projector or something you've done?

Just wanted to add my .02 to the 3D discussion. I've only watched a few movies in 3D so far, but Avatar was stunning with the full screen being filled the whole time. It wasn't really pop in your face 3D just gave depth. Gravity was the best looking 3D I've ever seen. It was breath taking watching that movie with the close ups looking like 4K. We also watched Dr. Strange and while the huge action IMAX scenes that filled up the whole screen looked amazing...the normal letterbox darker scenes had some issues. Finally, we rented Guardians of the Galaxy in 3D and it was amazing. It would fill up the whole screen for much of the movie during the big IMAX scenes and top 2 behind Gravity for me. Amazing movie on this projector.


----------



## Evan201

SALadder22FF said:


> It is a Screen Innovations Black Diamond Zero Edge 1.4 120" screen.
> 
> I turned the LEDs off cause my phone takes better pics when the LEDs are off.
> 
> Dave for your 'standard' rec 709 settings are those standard in the projector or something you've done?
> 
> Just wanted to add my .02 to the 3D discussion. I've only watched a few movies in 3D so far, but Avatar was stunning with the full screen being filled the whole time. It wasn't really pop in your face 3D just gave depth. Gravity was the best looking 3D I've ever seen. It was breath taking watching that movie with the close ups looking like 4K. We also watched Dr. Strange and while the huge action IMAX scenes that filled up the whole screen looked amazing...the normal letterbox darker scenes had some issues. Finally, we rented Guardians of the Galaxy in 3D and it was amazing. It would fill up the whole screen for much of the movie during the big IMAX scenes and top 2 behind Gravity for me. Amazing movie on this projector.


I recommend Titanic 3d if you liked Avatar. Cameron's movies seam to be great in 3d in general.


----------



## k3nnis

SALadder22FF said:


> It is a Screen Innovations Black Diamond Zero Edge 1.4 120" screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I turned the LEDs off cause my phone takes better pics when the LEDs are off.
> 
> 
> 
> Dave for your 'standard' rec 709 settings are those standard in the projector or something you've done?
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to add my .02 to the 3D discussion. I've only watched a few movies in 3D so far, but Avatar was stunning with the full screen being filled the whole time. It wasn't really pop in your face 3D just gave depth. Gravity was the best looking 3D I've ever seen. It was breath taking watching that movie with the close ups looking like 4K. We also watched Dr. Strange and while the huge action IMAX scenes that filled up the whole screen looked amazing...the normal letterbox darker scenes had some issues. Finally, we rented Guardians of the Galaxy in 3D and it was amazing. It would fill up the whole screen for much of the movie during the big IMAX scenes and top 2 behind Gravity for me. Amazing movie on this projector.




Nice. I was thinking to get a zero edge screen like the elite aeon. It's much cheaper but is it anygood? Or just get a normal screen with borders ? It's going into a dedicated theater room but not a big room. What is the advantage of a zero edge screen? And what does the LEDs help with? If I was to get a zero edge screen I was thinking not to have any LED's, will that defeat the purpose?

Thanks,
K.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

john barlow said:


> With UHD discs, I set everything to auto and force HDR from the Epson. Works well for almost all discs. For Roku Ultra, I use an Intregal and use my PC to set 4k60 420 8 bit edid. I will not buy a Panny until the price comes down considerably. The reason I may pick up the Sony is it's affordability.
> I like, no, love my Oppo 203.


Relative to Oppo's stellar reputation and the overall success of the 103, the birthing/teething pains of the 203 were a bit disappointing and unexpected. I have no doubts corrective measures will be forthcoming in short order and the reason I will be keeping the 203. I purchased the Philips 7501 early on for only $129 during a Black Friday special so I have my "back up." It's not as robust as the 203 but its performance has been flawless...impressive given its price point. I also had considered the Integral but never pulled the trigger. Because I am able to source the Panny 900 for less than MSRP, I will likely "road test" the Dynamic Range Slider which has been reported by many to be an excellent solution for the "dark" HDR images on the likes of The Martian, The Revenant, Arrival, etc. If you decide to pick up the Sony, please post your findings/impressions as I would be interested in its performance with "dark" HDR UHD discs. Thanks in advance!


----------



## robc1976

gene4ht said:


> Relative to Oppo's stellar reputation and the overall success of the 103, the birthing/teething pains of the 203 were a bit disappointing and unexpected. I have no doubts corrective measures will be forthcoming in short order and the reason I will be keeping the 203. I purchased the Philips 7501 early on for only $129 during a Black Friday special so I have my "back up." It's not as robust as the 203 but its performance has been flawless...impressive given its price point. I also had considered the Integral but never pulled the trigger. Because I am able to source the Panny 900 for less than MSRP, I will likely "road test" the Dynamic Range Slider which has been reported by many to be an excellent solution for the "dark" HDR images on the likes of The Martian, The Revenant, Arrival, etc. If you decide to pick up the Sony, please post your findings/impressions as I would be interested in its performance with "dark" HDR UHD discs. Thanks in advance!


I just purchased a Sony BD player, will let you know


----------



## robc1976

john barlow said:


> I am a satisfied Oppo 203 owner and the more I hear or read about the new Sony UHD player, the more I'd like to pick one up as a back up or second player. Priced affordably enough to make it real.


my last BD player was a $1,000 and didn't even have wifi lol! This sony looks very nice, its very heavy, build quality looks amazing and is 17" wide do it fits perfectly in my gear enclosure.


----------



## SALadder22FF

k3nnis said:


> Nice. I was thinking to get a zero edge screen like the elite aeon. It's much cheaper but is it anygood? Or just get a normal screen with borders ? It's going into a dedicated theater room but not a big room. What is the advantage of a zero edge screen? And what does the LEDs help with? If I was to get a zero edge screen I was thinking not to have any LED's, will that defeat the purpose?
> 
> Thanks,
> K.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The SI zero edge is much cheaper? Or the Aeon?

I'm super pleased with how the screen performs. I can watch during day and get a super bright picture with the windows open and lights on. Direct light on it can cause some fading, but it looks amazing. 

The zero edge I wouldn't say is best for a darkened out room cause you wont be able to tell. The advtange is most people think it's a giant TV and not a screen. Looks like a huge LCD on the wall. The LED's add alot to it. They really make it pop. I like to color coordinate to what sports team I"m watching. Just adds a little extra. I attatched my Spurs silver if you will.


----------



## k3nnis

SALadder22FF said:


> The SI zero edge is much cheaper? Or the Aeon?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm super pleased with how the screen performs. I can watch during day and get a super bright picture with the windows open and lights on. Direct light on it can cause some fading, but it looks amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> The zero edge I wouldn't say is best for a darkened out room cause you wont be able to tell. The advtange is most people think it's a giant TV and not a screen. Looks like a huge LCD on the wall. The LED's add alot to it. They really make it pop. I like to color coordinate to what sports team I"m watching. Just adds a little extra. I attatched my Spurs silver if you will.




Nice. Hmm maybe I won't get a zero edge as it will be a darkened dedicated HT room. Just get a velour thick frame. 

I meant Aeon is much cheaper.

Maybe one day I will get a zero edge screen for the family room. 

How do you run power to the led's?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

BRADH said:


> When I had my Samsung sp-a 900 I could count on about 1500 hrs in low lamp mode before it got to dim. Then I replaced the bulb. This is the first time I have seen lamp flicker.
> So are you saying running the lamp in eco can cause this or I just have a bad lamp? I have the spare that came with the projector I could try it.
> 
> When I explained the problem to the Epson tech he said because it doesn't do it in the other modes it was a projector problem not a lamp problem.
> 
> What did you say to get a new lamp when you talked with them.
> 
> Thanks
> Brad
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


I'm afraid that particular Epson tech wasn't very clued up, several projectors can suffer with flicker if repeatedly used in low lamp mode, my hw40 did on its first lamp, also with that model if I first watched 3D then anytime that same evening watched a 2D film I got flicker, next day all fine.

Yes I would definately try the new lamp first, I didn't realise you had one spare, I hope it works out as you seem very happy with the rest of your unit.


----------



## SALadder22FF

k3nnis said:


> SALadder22FF said:
> 
> 
> 
> The SI zero edge is much cheaper? Or the Aeon?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm super pleased with how the screen performs. I can watch durioong day and get a super bright picture with the windows open and lights on. Direct light on it can cause some fading, but it looks amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> The zero edge I wouldn't say is best for a darkened out room cause you wont be able to tell. The advtange is most people think it's a giant TV and not a screen. Looks like a huge LCD on the wall. The LED's add alot to it. They really make it pop. I like to color coordinate to what sports team I"m watching. Just adds a little extra. I attatched my Spurs silver if you will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. Hmm maybe I won't get a zero edge as it will be a darkened dedicated HT room. Just get a velour thick frame.
> 
> I meant Aeon is much cheaper.
> 
> Maybe one day I will get a zero edge screen for the family room.
> 
> How do you run power to the led's?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I installed a power outlet behind the screen before installing it.


----------



## panman40

SALadder22FF said:


> The SI zero edge is much cheaper? Or the Aeon?
> 
> I'm super pleased with how the screen performs. I can watch during day and get a super bright picture with the windows open and lights on. Direct light on it can cause some fading, but it looks amazing.
> 
> The zero edge I wouldn't say is best for a darkened out room cause you wont be able to tell. The advtange is most people think it's a giant TV and not a screen. Looks like a huge LCD on the wall. The LED's add alot to it. They really make it pop. I like to color coordinate to what sports team I"m watching. Just adds a little extra. I attatched my Spurs silver if you will.


That looks pretty cool, I suppose with such a light rejecting screen you can get away with some light spill from the LEDs, I just have a white 1.1 gain screen and I've even turned off the Epson's led lol!


----------



## jwhn

Evan201 said:


> OH Gotchya. I'm trying to figure out why my Digital Cinema comes off too dim even after HV settings vs. everyone elses that looks much brighter. Maybe its my Cinegrey 5D ALR screen.
> Maybe I need to try a white screen soon.


This may help you. I am currently comparing the Elite CineWhite with the CineGrey3D. These shots are in fully darkened room with the HV settings. Left side is white screen, right side is Grey. 

I have bunch of other shots in standard HD, HDR, in different light settings. I need to work on taking better pictures though. ; )

Initial conclusions - if there is a lot of ambient light, neither perform well. With a moderate amount, the grey does much better. The grey always has the deeper blacks of course. But the white is impressive in a fully darkened room. I am now trying to figure how I will make a two sided screen that I can rotate based on light conditions. Just kidding, but that would be cool.

I'm wondering if Dave would adjust his settings if he had a grey screen like the right side of these shots?


----------



## panman40

jwhn said:


> This may help you. I am currently comparing the Elite CineWhite with the CineGrey3D. These shots are in fully darkened room with the HV settings. Left side is white screen, right side is Grey.
> 
> I have bunch of other shots in standard HD, HDR, in different light settings. I need to work on taking better pictures though. ; )
> 
> Initial conclusions - if there is a lot of ambient light, neither perform well. With a moderate amount, the grey does much better. The grey always has the deeper blacks of course. But the white is impressive in a fully darkened room. I am now trying to figure how I will make a two sided screen that I can rotate based on light conditions. Just kidding, but that would be cool.
> 
> I'm wondering if Dave would adjust his settings if he had a grey screen like the right side of these shots?


The right side of those pics are pretty dark, I'm guessing those were taken in the dark ?.


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> ......I'm wondering if Dave would adjust his settings if he had a grey screen like the right side of these shots?



I probably would, but I'm not a big fan of them.

What happened to @Oledurt? Haven't heard from him in awhile. His Bright Cinema with custom gamma settings are pretty amazing too, and may work better with grey screens.


----------



## BRADH

panman40 said:


> I'm afraid that particular Epson tech wasn't very clued up, several projectors can suffer with flicker if repeatedly used in low lamp mode, my hw40 did on its first lamp, also with that model if I first watched 3D then anytime that same evening watched a 2D film I got flicker, next day all fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I would definately try the new lamp first, I didn't realise you had one spare, I hope it works out as you seem very happy with the rest of your unit.




Last night I had no flicker. One thing I noticed was when the projector started it started with lower fan speed. The night before when I saw the flicker at start up the fan was loud like in in high mode and it took a bit before the Epson logo appeared on the screen. I have noticed the different fan noise at start up before. Is that normal? 

Thanks
Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## jbrazda

Anybody ever use plasti dip to black out a window? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cdnmiggy

jwhn said:


> This may help you. I am currently comparing the Elite CineWhite with the CineGrey3D. These shots are in fully darkened room with the HV settings. Left side is white screen, right side is Grey.
> 
> I have bunch of other shots in standard HD, HDR, in different light settings. I need to work on taking better pictures though. ; )
> 
> Initial conclusions - if there is a lot of ambient light, neither perform well. With a moderate amount, the grey does much better. The grey always has the deeper blacks of course. But the white is impressive in a fully darkened room. I am now trying to figure how I will make a two sided screen that I can rotate based on light conditions. Just kidding, but that would be cool.
> 
> I'm wondering if Dave would adjust his settings if he had a grey screen like the right side of these shots?


I'm trying to decide between white or grey (studiotek 130 vs Firehawk G4) and in those pictures i prefer the white. The grey was just too dark. Settings would have to be adjusted to see if you could replicate the white performance. Are the walls and ceiling painted black?


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> I probably would, but I'm not a big fan of them.
> 
> What happened to @Oledurt? Haven't heard from him in awhile. His Bright Cinema with custom gamma settings are pretty amazing too, and may work better with grey screens.


I think he's gone into hibernation after paying out for his cal , only joking .


----------



## panman40

BRADH said:


> Last night I had no flicker. One thing I noticed was when the projector started it started with lower fan speed. The night before when I saw the flicker at start up the fan was loud like in in high mode and it took a bit before the Epson logo appeared on the screen. I have noticed the different fan noise at start up before. Is that normal?
> 
> Thanks
> Brad
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


That sounds like what mine was doing, high fan noise with no image for about a minute then low fan and Epson logo followed by the image source.
It's been known that this can happen occasionally but mine was 59% of the time, a new lamp cured it totally.
I would Deffo try your spare lamp.

Martin.


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> I probably would, but I'm not a big fan of them.


Neither is my wife who says "the right side is too dark." Of course she is also the one who says "can we turn on some lights?" 

If there is enough light, I think the grey screen does help. See the two photos with some lights on. The first is HDR with HV settings. The 2nd is 1080p in Natural with out of the box settings.

I will try Oledurt's settings. But how would you guide one to address an issue like dealing with ambient light, related to your HV settings? For example, focus on the gamma settings? Brightness settings? What would be your general guidance?

And hope you are feeling better, BTW.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Evan201 said:


> Damn takes me right to it. You'll have to use a computer or laptop for it to work. Phone app may not work right, but anyway here is the post number :
> 
> *post #7689* of 8011


Did a quick check/compare yesterday.
I found the BrightCinema causes a washout a bit. I will try and tweak and see what works.
I liked the Harpervision better in comparison (and I use it in ECO mode only).
Having said that I will spend some more time readjusting the BrightCinema na d see how it turns out. (But I am already biased with p3 and no p3 in these two settings)


----------



## jwhn

cdnmiggy said:


> I'm trying to decide between white or grey (studiotek 130 vs Firehawk G4) and in those pictures i prefer the white. The grey was just too dark. Settings would have to be adjusted to see if you could replicate the white performance. Are the walls and ceiling painted black?


No the walls and ceiling are lighter colored (and darkening them is not an option in my case).

I don't want this to turn into a pure screen thread (I may post something in the screens thread to help those considering white vs. grey). Here I wanted to show the HV HDR settings with the different screens. Because I agree with you that the HV settings would need to be adjusted if used with a grey screen.

My initial take is that it won't be possible to fully replicate the white performance. The grey does have its advantages, however. Once the ambient light gets to a certain level the grey helps. And black levels (see attached).


----------



## jwhn

panman40 said:


> The right side of those pics are pretty dark, I'm guessing those were taken in the dark ?.


Yes, in the dark. But I think it's the grey screen that is making it overly dark.


----------



## panman40

jwhn said:


> Yes, in the dark. But I think it's the grey screen that is making it overly dark.


Yes it does look very dark, I asked about the lighting as the left side white screen looks not washed out, quite a difference with ambient light though.


----------



## cdnmiggy

jwhn said:


> No the walls and ceiling are lighter colored (and darkening them is not an option in my case).
> 
> I don't want this to turn into a pure screen thread (I may post something in the screens thread to help those considering white vs. grey). Here I wanted to show the HV HDR settings with the different screens. Because I agree with you that the HV settings would need to be adjusted if used with a grey screen.
> 
> My initial take is that it won't be possible to fully replicate the white performance. The grey does have its advantages, however. Once the ambient light gets to a certain level the grey helps. And black levels (see attached).


I really appreciate you posting these side by sides. I too can't go bat cave black so i have matte grey/blue walls. No ambient light what so ever but some reflection from surfaces. I know this isn't a screen thread but dark HDR issues with this projector makes screen choice pretty important.


----------



## jwhn

cdnmiggy said:


> I really appreciate you posting these side by sides. I too can't go bat cave black so i have matte grey/blue walls. No ambient light what so ever but some reflection from surfaces. I know this isn't a screen thread but dark HDR issues with this projector makes screen choice pretty important.


Agreed. If you don't have any ambient light whatsoever, based on my ad-hoc test here, I would suggest going with a white screen. It looks great in the room with all the lights out with Dave's settings. I'm not sure what the argument would be for a grey screen.


----------



## darkangelism

All this HDR talk makes me want to buy a Sony UBP 800 instead of waiting for Xbox Scorpio.


----------



## cdnmiggy

darkangelism said:


> All this HDR talk makes me want to buy a Sony UBP 800 instead of waiting for Xbox Scorpio.


Sony is well made and it has good reports from users. If HDR is keythe brightness slider on the panasonic is a welcome feature. Perhaps if you have a white screen you could go with the sony but if you went grey screen the panasonic might be the choice. Just thinking out loud I haven't purchased yet but i have seen the panasonic on a firehawk with the 6040.


----------



## Evan201

Ok so here's what i'm gathering about my own personal tastes. 
I'm a lowlight guy. I like to see the details in the low light areas much more than I care about 100% color accuracy. 
These phone cameras obviously don't do the human eye justice, but here you can see the difference between HarperVision and my Bright Cinema with Oledurt gamma curve on my Cinegrey 5D screen. 
My room is really pretty darn dark with all the lights out. 
I'll admit that the color seems to be a little more accurate in these photos with the Harpervision, but my eye likes the Bright Cinema SDR Oledurt gamma settings better when viewing in person. 
A major difference between these two pre-sets is that the Bright Cinema with Oledurt gamma can be run on ECO with great brightness and the HarperVision needs to be on High Lamp for decent brightness. Running the Bright Cinema Oledurt settings on High Lamp is like HOLY COW BRIGHT. 
Another cool thing about these is that SDR can be fixed and left alone in the Signal Menu. I'm pretty much only using Auto (Bright) HDR signal when watching animated HDR discs like Sing or Secret Life Of Pets where the added brightness is definitely not needed. 
With the Epson on a grey screen, i think you're going to have to choose between brightness or color. I don't think you're going to be able to have both.
The screen shots that are NOT harpervision below are all on ECO lamp. Only HV is on HIGH lamp. 

Top Picture is Oledurt Gamma HDR to SDR Bright Cinema 
Bottom picture is pure Harpervision with brightness at 50 instead of 46.

image url uploadcertificity.com

image upload no limitcertificity.com



Here you can't even see the red band around the guys hat with HarperVision, but stands out a lot with Bright Cinema Oledurt gamma 

upload image onlinecertificity.com



TOP is Oledurt Bright Cinema MIDDLE is harpervision BOTTOM is 1080p Blu Ray with Factory Natural Mode 0 gamma and color saturation at 65.

screenshot windowscertificity.com


----------



## Jameshtx

I have an Oppo 203 as my dvd player. If I wanted to calibrate the picture settings, should I adjust it on either Espon , Oppo, or both? Would like to get everyone's feedback. Thanks


----------



## bluer101

panman40 said:


> That sounds like what mine was doing, high fan noise with no image for about a minute then low fan and Epson logo followed by the image source.
> It's been known that this can happen occasionally but mine was 59% of the time, a new lamp cured it totally.
> I would Deffo try your spare lamp.
> 
> Martin.


I have noticed mine doing the turbo start too. I find if I don't use the projector for a week it seems to do it. But if I do it a night back to back it won't, or that it seems to me. 

I wonder if Epson would send a new bulb as mine has just less than 100 hours on it and on used on eco except for 3d.


----------



## darkangelism

cdnmiggy said:


> Sony is well made and it has good reports from users. If HDR is keythe brightness slider on the panasonic is a welcome feature. Perhaps if you have a white screen you could go with the sony but if you went grey screen the panasonic might be the choice. Just thinking out loud I haven't purchased yet but i have seen the panasonic on a firehawk with the 6040.


I have a white screen with 1.1 gain


----------



## gene4ht

darkangelism said:


> All this HDR talk makes me want to buy a Sony UBP 800 instead of waiting for Xbox Scorpio.


This in the Panny 400 thread....

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...ic-dmp-ub400-owner-s-thread.html#post52784705


----------



## Leon1972

Hey guys. I previously convinced my wife to go to projection with a very cheap setup. She is pretty hooked now and I have her close to allowing me to pull the trigger on a new projector. I like the 5040. I could use a little help with getting her the rest of the way though. If someone with a living room or family room setup doesn't mind a few quick snapshots. Daytime with not so much light control and nighttime with the light control would be perfect. I know I'm asking a lot but I REALLY could use some help pushing her over the edge. as much as she WANTS 4k i think if she can see how our living room would look with 150 inch 4k would look in a setup like we have i think she will cave. lol
Thanks in advance!


----------



## darkangelism

Leon1972 said:


> Hey guys. I convinced my wife to go to projection with a very cheap setup. She is pretty hooked and I have her close to allowing me to pull the trigger on a new projector. I like the 5040. I could use a little help with getting her the rest of the way though. If someone with a living room or family room setup doesn't mind a few quick snapshots. Daytime with not so much light control and nighttime with the light control would be perfect. I know I'm asking a lot but I REALLY could use some help pushing her over the edge. as much as she WANTS 4k i think if she can see how our living room would look with 150 inch 4k would look in a setup like we have i think she will cave. lol
> Thanks in advance!


A 5040 usually doesn't fit into a "very cheap" setup, so what is your budget? How many windows and where are they located? how big is the room? do you have speakers and receiver already? How big of a screen are you wanting? 

Some ambient light can be fine but it is room dependent and how much you can tolerate it. Things like blackout curtains go a long way.


----------



## darkangelism

gene4ht said:


> This in the Panny 400 thread....
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...ic-dmp-ub400-owner-s-thread.html#post52784705


thanks, yeah i didn't want to pay for the 900, but i can wait a month for the 400


----------



## Leon1972

Ok, so i described things badly. I CURRENTLY have a cheap setup. Got my wife hooked on the bigger screen. A VERY cheap 730 HD. 
We don't want to live in the dark as we have kids and do not want them living in the dark. It is three windows but they do not get direct sunlight. There is about a 5 to 6 foot overhang over them out back.
Also, in our house we cannot paint the walls and they are white. Yes I already have speakers. I know it will not be IDEAL for the daytime viewing, but ANYTHING will be better than the one I have now. lol.
Night time viewing can go to bat cave dark, aside for the light reflection off walls.



darkangelism said:


> A 5040 usually doesn't fit into a "very cheap" setup, so what is your budget? How many windows and where are they located? how big is the room? do you have speakers and receiver already? How big of a screen are you wanting?
> 
> Some ambient light can be fine but it is room dependent and how much you can tolerate it. Things like blackout curtains go a long way.


----------



## gene4ht

darkangelism said:


> thanks, yeah i didn't want to pay for the 900, but i can wait a month for the 400


Keep in mind, the poster is in Canada. The 400 may or not be available in the US. My intent was to share the impressions/opinions of someone familiar with the Sony 800's capability.


----------



## darkangelism

gene4ht said:


> Keep in mind, the poster is in Canada. The 400 may or not be available in the US. My intent was to share the impressions/opinions of someone familiar with the Sony 800's capability.


I can get someone in Canada to send it to me if it ends up there, I just don't want to deal with power conversion from the UK.


----------



## rmilyard

So guys what settings people using on there NVidia Shield TV with 5040ub to get 4K UHD? So when I try something like Longmire which I know is UHD it shows as HD in menus where you pick which show to watch. On my den Samsung it shows as Ultra HD there not HD.

Same goes for shows in HDR. So in menu as HD however when play those in the info on projector says HDR but let picture doesn't look UHD. Can you have HDR @ 1080p?


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> Neither is my wife who says "the right side is too dark." Of course she is also the one who says "can we turn on some lights?"
> 
> 
> 
> If there is enough light, I think the grey screen does help. See the two photos with some lights on. The first is HDR with HV settings. The 2nd is 1080p in Natural with out of the box settings.
> 
> 
> 
> I will try Oledurt's settings. But how would you guide one to address an issue like dealing with ambient light, related to your HV settings? For example, focus on the gamma settings? Brightness settings? What would be your general guidance?
> 
> 
> 
> And hope you are feeling better, BTW.


Since ambient light destroys black levels first, then the first thing to do is raise brightness to recover some shadow details. If it's too much and you want to watch during the day, then I agree that a grey/ALR screen is your best option at that point. 



jwhn said:


> Agreed. If you don't have any ambient light whatsoever, based on my ad-hoc test here, I would suggest going with a white screen. It looks great in the room with all the lights out with Dave's settings. I'm not sure what the argument would be for a grey screen.



If you go with a grey screen, you just basically have to reset basic settings using a Calibration disc and then redo ISF type Calibration off the screen to get accurate images. I just think it's tough already to get bright enough images for HDR, and grey screens make it even harder. Almost like putting on the brakes a little while you're hitting the gas trying to get up to speed on the highway. But if conditions don't allow white, then of course a compromise is in order. 




Evan201 said:


> Ok so here's what i'm gathering about my own personal tastes.
> 
> I'm a lowlight guy. I like to see the details in the low light areas much more than I care about 100% color accuracy.
> 
> These phone cameras obviously don't do the human eye justice, but here you can see the difference between HarperVision and my Bright Cinema with Oledurt gamma curve on my Cinegrey 5D screen.
> 
> My room is really pretty darn dark with all the lights out.
> 
> I'll admit that the color seems to be a little more accurate in these photos with the Harpervision, but my eye likes the Bright Cinema SDR Oledurt gamma settings better when viewing in person.
> 
> A major difference between these two pre-sets is that the Bright Cinema with Oledurt gamma can be run on ECO with great brightness and the HarperVision needs to be on High Lamp for decent brightness. Running the Bright Cinema Oledurt settings on High Lamp is like HOLY COW BRIGHT.
> 
> Another cool thing about these is that SDR can be fixed and left alone in the Signal Menu. I'm pretty much only using Auto (Bright) HDR signal when watching animated HDR discs like Sing or Secret Life Of Pets where the added brightness is definitely not needed.
> 
> With the Epson on a grey screen, i think you're going to have to choose between brightness or color. I don't think you're going to be able to have both.
> 
> The screen shots that are NOT harpervision below are all on ECO lamp. Only HV is on HIGH lamp.
> 
> Top Picture is Oledurt Gamma HDR to SDR Bright Cinema
> 
> Bottom picture is pure Harpervision with brightness at 50 instead of 46.
> 
> image url uploadcertificity.com
> 
> image upload no limitcertificity.com
> 
> Here you can't even see the red band around the guys hat with HarperVision, but stands out a lot with Bright Cinema Oledurt gamma
> 
> upload image onlinecertificity.com
> 
> TOP is Oledurt Bright Cinema MIDDLE is harpervision BOTTOM is 1080p Blu Ray with Factory Natural Mode 0 gamma and color saturation at 65.
> 
> screenshot windowscertificity.com


I think my settings look better overall actually, at least based on those photos. As far as the red band not being seen, it appears that maybe you need to tweak black levels or my gamma for your setup a little. Go into custom gamma on that scene and then see which point flashes and corresponds to that red band. Try tweaking it up a notch or two and then go back and watch it again. Or maybe saturation and/or CMS needs adjusting.


----------



## panman40

gene4ht said:


> Keep in mind, the poster is in Canada. The 400 may or not be available in the US. My intent was to share the impressions/opinions of someone familiar with the Sony 800's capability.


It's a shame you don't have the ub700, fantastic player and much cheaper than a 900.


----------



## panman40

Evan201 said:


> Ok so here's what i'm gathering about my own personal tastes.
> I'm a lowlight guy. I like to see the details in the low light areas much more than I care about 100% color accuracy.
> These phone cameras obviously don't do the human eye justice, but here you can see the difference between HarperVision and my Bright Cinema with Oledurt gamma curve on my Cinegrey 5D screen.
> My room is really pretty darn dark with all the lights out.
> I'll admit that the color seems to be a little more accurate in these photos with the Harpervision, but my eye likes the Bright Cinema SDR Oledurt gamma settings better when viewing in person.
> A major difference between these two pre-sets is that the Bright Cinema with Oledurt gamma can be run on ECO with great brightness and the HarperVision needs to be on High Lamp for decent brightness. Running the Bright Cinema Oledurt settings on High Lamp is like HOLY COW BRIGHT.
> Another cool thing about these is that SDR can be fixed and left alone in the Signal Menu. I'm pretty much only using Auto (Bright) HDR signal when watching animated HDR discs like Sing or Secret Life Of Pets where the added brightness is definitely not needed.
> With the Epson on a grey screen, i think you're going to have to choose between brightness or color. I don't think you're going to be able to have both.
> The screen shots that are NOT harpervision below are all on ECO lamp. Only HV is on HIGH lamp.
> 
> Top Picture is Oledurt Gamma HDR to SDR Bright Cinema
> Bottom picture is pure Harpervision with brightness at 50 instead of 46.
> 
> image url uploadcertificity.com
> 
> image upload no limitcertificity.com
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can't even see the red band around the guys hat with HarperVision, but stands out a lot with Bright Cinema Oledurt gamma
> 
> upload image onlinecertificity.com
> 
> 
> 
> TOP is Oledurt Bright Cinema MIDDLE is harpervision BOTTOM is 1080p Blu Ray with Factory Natural Mode 0 gamma and color saturation at 65.
> 
> screenshot windowscertificity.com



"Bright Cinema SDR Oledurt gamma settings" ?, I thought oledurts calibrated bright cinema setting was using hdr1 or 'auto bright' not forcing SDR as with harpervision ?.

That very last 1080p image looks the best of those 3 imo looking on my iPad.


----------



## gene4ht

panman40 said:


> It's a shame you don't have the ub700, fantastic player and much cheaper than a 900.


Agreed...Except for a few products, Panasonic exited the US market.


----------



## Evan201

Dave Harper said:


> I think my settings look better overall actually, at least based on those photos. As far as the red band not being seen, it appears that maybe you need to tweak black levels or my gamma for your setup a little. Go into custom gamma on that scene and then see which point flashes and corresponds to that red band. Try tweaking it up a notch or two and then go back and watch it again. Or maybe saturation and/or CMS needs adjusting.


Thanks for your help Dave. I find it all really fun just playing with all the different options.


----------



## Dave Harper

panman40 said:


> "Bright Cinema SDR Oledurt gamma settings" ?, I thought oledurts calibrated bright cinema setting was using hdr1 or 'auto bright' not forcing SDR as with harpervision ?.
> 
> 
> 
> That very last 1080p image looks the best of those 3 imo looking on my iPad.



Yes, Oledurt's custom settings use HDR not SDR as mine do. I was thinking the same thing when I read that and forgot to respond. Thanks for noticing that and picking me up!


----------



## Bob Sorel

> I think my settings look better overall actually, at least based on those photos. As far as the red band not being seen, it appears that maybe you need to tweak black levels or my gamma for your setup a little. Go into custom gamma on that scene and then see which point flashes and corresponds to that red band. Try tweaking it up a notch or two and then go back and watch it again. Or maybe saturation and/or CMS needs adjusting.


I agree with Dave. Even though Evan's setup needs some minor tweaking, the color accuracy of Dave's settings provides a testament to his good eyes. As far as I am concerned, it is no contest - Dave's settings are better and more accurate. Nice work, Dave!


----------



## bluer101

Leon1972 said:


> Hey guys. I previously convinced my wife to go to projection with a very cheap setup. She is pretty hooked now and I have her close to allowing me to pull the trigger on a new projector. I like the 5040. I could use a little help with getting her the rest of the way though. If someone with a living room or family room setup doesn't mind a few quick snapshots. Daytime with not so much light control and nighttime with the light control would be perfect. I know I'm asking a lot but I REALLY could use some help pushing her over the edge. as much as she WANTS 4k i think if she can see how our living room would look with 150 inch 4k would look in a setup like we have i think she will cave. lol
> Thanks in advance!


Day with curtains closed. 










Night.


----------



## Leon1972

Thanks! I appreciate the assistance! While I know my setup isn't the best to us it is better than nothing. It is still a VERY watchable image during the day. The blacks are just a little less black. Luckily we get zero direct sunlight during the daytime so it still a good image. Could we get better with a TV? Im sure we could but to us the trade off of size vs the picture quality is worth it. We just can't justify the price for night time viewing only. Once I'm done with the ARMY and we retire to Florida then we will have a dedicated home theater room. 



bluer101 said:


> Day with curtains closed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Night.


----------



## nukequazar

*Ethernet/iProjection*



Smarty-pants said:


> QUESTION:
> On the Epson models, regarding the LAN/ethernet port, is it a necessity to have that connected to your home network,
> or is it basically just used for periodical firmware updates and nothing else?
> If I buy one, I really don't want to have to go though redoing my existing cabling, and can just hooking up a temporary
> ethernet cable when necessary wouldn't be a big deal.
> TIA


I searched this thread for info about the ethernet connection, and repeatedly found people saying that there's no reason to connect it unless you want to project images from a computer.

I doubted this, and took the small risk to run a Cat 6 while running a new HDMI through my ceiling conduit, and found that the advice was COMPLETELY WRONG!

There is an iOS app called Epson iProjection. It allows not only projection of images but also access to all the projector settings, so you do not have to use the onscreen menus. VERY COOL and completely worth running the cable!


----------



## jwhn

Leon1972 said:


> Thanks! I appreciate the assistance! While I know my setup isn't the best to us it is better than nothing. It is still a VERY watchable image during the day. The blacks are just a little less black. Luckily we get zero direct sunlight during the daytime so it still a good image. Could we get better with a TV? Im sure we could but to us the trade off of size vs the picture quality is worth it. We just can't justify the price for night time viewing only. Once I'm done with the ARMY and we retire to Florida then we will have a dedicated home theater room.


Leon,

I'm going through a similar process so maybe this will help. I have bay windows and I get brutal sun in the afternoon, but I have black out curtains. So my room can span from extreme light and an unwatchable image to essentially total darkness at night. And depending on the combinations of lights we turn on we can get everything in between. And that directly correlates to the huge range of picture quality I can get. 

The pics below are 1) open windows on a sunny day (ouch) 2) a lot of lighting on in the house 3) total darkness. Left side is using a white screen and the right side grey.

The pictures that Bluer101 shared are all in a fairly dark room, I can assure you. Open those curtains and the image will start to get washed out. It's just a matter of how much light you are talking about and where it is coming from relative to the screen. We are starting to manage the light by using task lights instead of the main lights and things like that.

Based on what you've described, you would likely fall somewhere between pics 2 and 3. I guess it's just finding the right balance for your situation. If you can minimize the direct light onto the screen, you can definitely achieve a very good picture and then have a great image for movie nights (in the dark).

Anyway, I hope this helps. And thank you for your service!

Edit: I realize I should have included a more typical scenario. Here is pic 4 - a normal amount of lights on around dinner time with a normal show on. This is on Bright Cinema, default settings. It hasn't been calibrated or optimized at all. I think you will be fine.


----------



## Dave Harper

Bob Sorel said:


> I agree with Dave. Even though Evan's setup needs some minor tweaking, the color accuracy of Dave's settings provides a testament to his good eyes. As far as I am concerned, it is no contest - Dave's settings are better and more accurate. Nice work, Dave!



Wow Bob, thanks so much for your kind words. I'm very humbled. Mine are just a long line of awesome settings posted here for the 5040/6040UB.


----------



## GeneHT

Hi everyone, this is my first post, I have worked my way through most of the posts and find everything very helpful. I am in the process of finishing up my HT but still have some work to do on it and will post what it consists of when I get done. I purchased the Epson 5040 and wanted to see what it looked like doing 3D. I also purchased some of the Samsung 3300 glasses and wanted to give them a try. The problem I am having with the glasses is that it seems the batteries may have been in the discharged state too long and I am having problems trying to bring them back to life. I have them charging and the light is blinking green but when I take them off the charger they will not respond, if left on the charger and activated they will look for the projector until I unplug them from the charger then they go dead again. 
Has anyone else had battery problems with this model and if so have they come back to life if left on the charger for several days or has anyone replaced the battery? I have searched around the IE but haven't found anyone who has replaced the battery, I do know what model the battery is but thought I would get any suggestions before I go any further.

Thank You


----------



## ayrton

*3D Glasses*

^^

I played with the Sammy Glasses and had bad luck. Basically didn't work. Others have had good luck.

I bought the pricey Epson glasses and am in hog heaven. Only watched one 3D (Pacific Rim) and was blown away. Way better than my Panny. 65" Plasma. 

I have the UBe which had a USB port on the side of the WiFi Xmitter to charge them. These glasses require a lower voltage USB to charge than the phone and tablet chargers..


----------



## k3nnis

bluer101 said:


> Day with curtains closed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Night.




What size screen is this?  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

GeneHT said:


> Hi everyone, this is my first post, I have worked my way through most of the posts and find everything very helpful. I am in the process of finishing up my HT but still have some work to do on it and will post what it consists of when I get done. I purchased the Epson 5040 and wanted to see what it looked like doing 3D. I also purchased some of the Samsung 3300 glasses and wanted to give them a try. The problem I am having with the glasses is that it seems the batteries may have been in the discharged state too long and I am having problems trying to bring them back to life. I have them charging and the light is blinking green but when I take them off the charger they will not respond, if left on the charger and activated they will look for the projector until I unplug them from the charger then they go dead again.
> Has anyone else had battery problems with this model and if so have they come back to life if left on the charger for several days or has anyone replaced the battery? I have searched around the IE but haven't found anyone who has replaced the battery, I do know what model the battery is but thought I would get any suggestions before I go any further.
> 
> Thank You


I had a pair of those sometime ago and they lasted just a few months before the battery did not hold a charge and had the same issues as yourself, shame as they were comfy and light.


----------



## inspector

GeneHT said:


> Hi everyone, this is my first post, I have worked my way through most of the posts and find everything very helpful. I am in the process of finishing up my HT but still have some work to do on it and will post what it consists of when I get done. I purchased the Epson 5040 and wanted to see what it looked like doing 3D. I also purchased some of the Samsung 3300 glasses and wanted to give them a try. The problem I am having with the glasses is that it seems the batteries may have been in the discharged state too long and I am having problems trying to bring them back to life. I have them charging and the light is blinking green but when I take them off the charger they will not respond, if left on the charger and activated they will look for the projector until I unplug them from the charger then they go dead again.
> Has anyone else had battery problems with this model and if so have they come back to life if left on the charger for several days or has anyone replaced the battery? I have searched around the IE but haven't found anyone who has replaced the battery, I do know what model the battery is but thought I would get any suggestions before I go any further.
> 
> Thank You



Get the ones from Epson on Amazon. 


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AB9IDOU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## bluer101

panman40 said:


> I had a pair of those sometime ago and they lasted just a few months before the battery did not hold a charge and had the same issues as yourself, shame as they were comfy and light.


I first bought the Samsung glasses but I got the ones that take a battery and non rechargeable. 



inspector said:


> Get the ones from Epson on Amazon.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AB9IDOU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


They are great and comfortable. Got mine thru a few ebay auctions. 



k3nnis said:


> What size screen is this?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


100" elite screens spectrum.


----------



## panman40

bluer101 said:


> I first bought the Samsung glasses but I got the ones that take a battery and non rechargeable.
> 
> 
> 
> They are great and comfortable. Got mine thru a few ebay auctions.
> 
> 
> 
> 100" elite screens spectrum.


I had heard many times the Epson glasses are not very comfortable especially over prescription glasses, with the cost that's why I haven't tried them.


----------



## inspector

panman40 said:


> I had heard many times the Epson glasses are not very comfortable especially over prescription glasses, with the cost that's why I haven't tried them.



They are a little bit smaller than the others I returned but they work great with my glasses.


----------



## Leon1972

I had to start small and cheap to get my wife roped in and hooked, which she now is. I am currently using a VERY crappy Epson 730HD on a wall! Now I have her convinced to let me get something better, which i want to be the 5040, partly due to my wife obsession with wanting 4k so i knew that would help! She has been obsessed with it ever since we saw it Korea.
I know, I know. ON A WALL! WHAT AM I THINKING! well, its a cheap projector and i was pushing it at the time with spending the 600 on that. lol. Now I am looking for somewhere i can get some sample screen swatches and show my wife the difference. I am having a hard time trying to figure out how to do my projector screen. I live on base housing and you have to get approval to hang anything that size from the wall. Im thinking i may just get the material and do a shelf that i can hide a diy screen behind.





jwhn said:


> Leon,
> 
> I'm going through a similar process so maybe this will help. I have bay windows and I get brutal sun in the afternoon, but I have black out curtains. So my room can span from extreme light and an unwatchable image to essentially total darkness at night. And depending on the combinations of lights we turn on we can get everything in between. And that directly correlates to the huge range of picture quality I can get.
> 
> The pics below are 1) open windows on a sunny day (ouch) 2) a lot of lighting on in the house 3) total darkness. Left side is using a white screen and the right side grey.
> 
> The pictures that Bluer101 shared are all in a fairly dark room, I can assure you. Open those curtains and the image will start to get washed out. It's just a matter of how much light you are talking about and where it is coming from relative to the screen. We are starting to manage the light by using task lights instead of the main lights and things like that.
> 
> Based on what you've described, you would likely fall somewhere between pics 2 and 3. I guess it's just finding the right balance for your situation. If you can minimize the direct light onto the screen, you can definitely achieve a very good picture and then have a great image for movie nights (in the dark).
> 
> Anyway, I hope this helps. And thank you for your service!
> 
> Edit: I realize I should have included a more typical scenario. Here is pic 4 - a normal amount of lights on around dinner time with a normal show on. This is on Bright Cinema, default settings. It hasn't been calibrated or optimized at all. I think you will be fine.


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper,

I hope you doing ok, when you feel up to it and if you have time it would be great if you could experiment with a gamma curve for 3D using medium lamp.


----------



## ruggercb

Leon1972 said:


> I had to start small and cheap to get my wife roped in and hooked, which she now is. I am currently using a VERY crappy Epson 730HD on a wall! Now I have her convinced to let me get something better, which i want to be the 5040, partly due to my wife obsession with wanting 4k so i knew that would help! She has been obsessed with it ever since we saw it Korea.
> 
> I know, I know. ON A WALL! WHAT AM I THINKING! well, its a cheap projector and i was pushing it at the time with spending the 600 on that. lol. Now I am looking for somewhere i can get some sample screen swatches and show my wife the difference. I am having a hard time trying to figure out how to do my projector screen. I live on base housing and you have to get approval to hang anything that size from the wall. Im thinking i may just get the material and do a shelf that i can hide a diy screen
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAL65NW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> This might be a good start.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

GeneHT said:


> Hi everyone, this is my first post, I have worked my way through most of the posts and find everything very helpful. I am in the process of finishing up my HT but still have some work to do on it and will post what it consists of when I get done. I purchased the Epson 5040 and wanted to see what it looked like doing 3D. I also purchased some of the Samsung 3300 glasses and wanted to give them a try. The problem I am having with the glasses is that it seems the batteries may have been in the discharged state too long and I am having problems trying to bring them back to life. I have them charging and the light is blinking green but when I take them off the charger they will not respond, if left on the charger and activated they will look for the projector until I unplug them from the charger then they go dead again.
> Has anyone else had battery problems with this model and if so have they come back to life if left on the charger for several days or has anyone replaced the battery? I have searched around the IE but haven't found anyone who has replaced the battery, I do know what model the battery is but thought I would get any suggestions before I go any further.
> 
> Thank You


Welcome to the forum! No problems with batteries here. Sounds like you may have defective glasses or batteries...can they be returned? And no need to spend a lot of $$$ for good glasses. To get a feel for 3D and 3D glasses in general, you might want to visit the 3D Tech Talk threads. A good start would be this thread posted by @*Stecchino* 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3...d-glasses-4-models-compared.html#post49131769

I personally have six pair of the ValueVues and have found them to perform perfectly and also fit very comfortably over prescription eyeglasses. YMMV


----------



## Leon1972

So I just thought of something. I will have not choice but to place the projector 23 feet from the wall it will be projecting on. Is the lumens on this thing even enough for that great of a distance to make this projector worth while? What would maximum image size be recommended for this at night time viewing with full blackout of the room?
Also, I am still wondering if i should wait until i get the new projector to purchase screen samples for picking a new screen or will both projectors have the same, or near enough, same type of results between the two projectors? In case you are just now seeing my post I am currently projecting a epson 730hd onto wall and want to upgrade to a 5040ub with some degree of ALR screen.


----------



## GeneHT

Did some more playing around with the 3D Samsung glasses and took one apart and see that the battery can be replaced for around 5 to 6 dollars, so I may do that on the ones that are dead and won't take a charge.

I have 4 pair and out of the first two one has a dead battery, the other one charged up OK so I thought I would give it a try on Avatar 3D. I am charging the other 2 now and will see how they turn out.

WOW, what a picture with the Epson right out of the box with default settings.
I couldn't believe the picture, no ghosting that I could see and I felt like I was right there in the scene as it jumped out at me.

So I am very happy after seeing a lot of bad things about the 3D on this projector, will need to try a few more 3D discs and see how they are.

Here is what I am using for the screen.

Elite Screens Aeon, 158-inch 2.35:1, 4K Home Theater Fixed Frame EDGE FREE 
Borderless Projection Projector Screen, AR158WH2-WIDE, CineWhite

Throw distance is 18 feet in a light controlled room.

Will post more as I get things done, I was working on my back lit snap frames today and have those finished now, so I am slowly getting there, but with summer starting up and the grass to cut I won't have as much time to spend in the HT.


----------



## Dave Harper

Leon1972 said:


> I had to start small and cheap to get my wife roped in and hooked, which she now is. I am currently using a VERY crappy Epson 730HD on a wall! Now I have her convinced to let me get something better, which i want to be the 5040, partly due to my wife obsession with wanting 4k so i knew that would help! She has been obsessed with it ever since we saw it Korea.
> I know, I know. ON A WALL! WHAT AM I THINKING! well, its a cheap projector and i was pushing it at the time with spending the 600 on that. lol. Now I am looking for somewhere i can get some sample screen swatches and show my wife the difference. I am having a hard time trying to figure out how to do my projector screen. I live on base housing and you have to get approval to hang anything that size from the wall. Im thinking i may just get the material and do a shelf that i can hide a diy screen behind.


They do make leg kits to have the screen stand up on its own so you don't have to hang them on a wall. I use them all the time in my line of work.



panman40 said:


> Dave Harper,
> 
> I hope you doing ok, when you feel up to it and if you have time it would be great if you could experiment with a gamma curve for 3D using medium lamp.


I am getting better. I'm on antibiotics for a severe case of bronchitis. I haven't really messed with any gamma settings specifically for 3D, but that sounds like fun. I think SDR gammas have been beat to death already, that's why I concentrated on making HDR the best it can be. I guess we can see what can be done with 3D (even though they say it's a dying format!). Do you have any links to any others?


----------



## seplant

I got a Panasonic UB900 this week to try out with my 6040. Very nice! I really wanted to try out the Dynamic Range slider to increase the brightness on HDR content, but the most surprising thing about the UB900 is how much it improved the 3D performance. I see very little crosstalk compared to what I was seeing previously with my Oppo BDP-93 or with the PS3. I can run the 6040 on medium 3D brightness with little ghosting. Even Rogue One, which had ghosting so bad it was totally unwatchable previously, looks like a different movie now. 

I have tried only one UHD disc so far (Lucy), and I tried Oledurt's HDR settings and Harpervision (although on medium lamp, not high, and using the UB900's Dynamic Range slider to boost the brightness), I watched the UHD version all the way through and then played selected scenes on the standard blu-ray, and to be honest, the standard blu-ray looks almost if not just as good to my eye. This makes me hesitant to fully dive into the UHD pool. I might try one or two more UHD discs to see if I like any others better than the blu-ray.


----------



## sddp

GeneHT said:


> Did some more playing around with the 3D Samsung glasses and took one apart and see that the battery can be replaced for around 5 to 6 dollars, so I may do that on the ones that are dead and won't take a charge.
> 
> I have 4 pair and out of the first two one has a dead battery, the other one charged up OK so I thought I would give it a try on Avatar 3D. I am charging the other 2 now and will see how they turn out.
> 
> WOW, what a picture with the Epson right out of the box with default settings.
> I couldn't believe the picture, no ghosting that I could see and I felt like I was right there in the scene as it jumped out at me.
> 
> So I am very happy after seeing a lot of bad things about the 3D on this projector, will need to try a few more 3D discs and see how they are.
> 
> Here is what I am using for the screen.
> 
> Elite Screens Aeon, 158-inch 2.35:1, 4K Home Theater Fixed Frame EDGE FREE
> Borderless Projection Projector Screen, AR158WH2-WIDE, CineWhite
> 
> Throw distance is 18 feet in a light controlled room.
> 
> Will post more as I get things done, I was working on my back lit snap frames today and have those finished now, so I am slowly getting there, but with summer starting up and the grass to cut I won't have as much time to spend in the HT.






If you have done nothing to the 3D settings at all...
And are getting great 3D with no ghosting or issues then there's something wrong with your projector lol


----------



## GeneHT

I forgot to mention I am using the Opo 203 and I have updated all firmware in the system to the latest.

One more thing which should not make a difference is my projector is mounted about 12 inches down from a 9 foot ceiling but is not inverted, it is in a cuby built down from the ceiling and is upright setting on its feet. The top of the screen is about 7 inches down from the ceiling.

I have a couple more 3D movies I will try, I will be gone Monday so it will have to wait until I get back.

Like I said, I was surprised to see such nice clean 3D after all the problems people have been having.

I did check the panel alignment and it was dead on so I just left it alone.

I am presently charging my other 2 pair of Samsung glasses, they seem to be OK, will also have to try them when I get back, so looks like 1 dead battery out of 4.

Years ago I had a BenQ DLP when they first came out and this projector puts that to shame, and that one cost twice as much. I even tried some DVDs and it made them look even better.

Believe it or not I still have a bunch of tapes I am going to try since my receiver will accept component level signals from my tape player, will be interesting to see what the PJ does to those, I have quite a few of the Disney tapes I got for my daughter when she was little.

I did have some laser discs also but I sold them before I moved last fall, so over the years I have had a little bit of everything.

I even had a lot of the 8 track audio tapes for my car, all you old guys should remember those.


----------



## GeneHT

seplant said:


> I got a Panasonic UB900 this week to try out with my 6040. Very nice! I really wanted to try out the Dynamic Range slider to increase the brightness on HDR content, but the most surprising thing about the UB900 is how much it improved the 3D performance. I see very little crosstalk compared to what I was seeing previously with my Oppo BDP-93 or with the PS3. I can run the 6040 on medium 3D brightness with little ghosting. Even Rogue One, which had ghosting so bad it was totally unwatchable previously, looks like a different movie now.
> 
> I have tried only one UHD disc so far (Lucy), and I tried Oledurt's HDR settings and Harpervision (although on medium lamp, not high, and using the UB900's Dynamic Range slider to boost the brightness), I watched the UHD version all the way through and then played selected scenes on the standard blu-ray, and to be honest, the standard blu-ray looks almost if not just as good to my eye. This makes me hesitant to fully dive into the UHD pool. I might try one or two more UHD discs to see if I like any others better than the blu-ray.


The standard Blue Rays look so good that I have been digging through the 5 to 6 dollar Blue Ray bucket at Walmart.


----------



## adamhw

nukequazar said:


> I searched this thread for info about the ethernet connection, and repeatedly found people saying that there's no reason to connect it unless you want to project images from a computer.
> 
> I doubted this, and took the small risk to run a Cat 6 while running a new HDMI through my ceiling conduit, and found that the advice was COMPLETELY WRONG!
> 
> There is an iOS app called Epson iProjection. It allows not only projection of images but also access to all the projector settings, so you do not have to use the onscreen menus. VERY COOL and completely worth running the cable!


Does this work with wifi adapter? Anyone try a generic adapter vs the 100$ epson one?


----------



## nukequazar

adamhw said:


> Does this work with wifi adapter? Anyone try a generic adapter vs the 100$ epson one?


I have no idea about that, although anything that connects it to a network should work. May be worth a call to Epson or just give it a try with an adapter you can return.


----------



## Jem87

Seems like it's recommended everywhere to have image processing set to 'fine' when watching movies. How come? Does it really diminish the picture quality when set to "fast"? I have mine set to "fast" because I figure it would make fast movement not look so jittery.


----------



## panman40

seplant said:


> I got a Panasonic UB900 this week to try out with my 6040. Very nice! I really wanted to try out the Dynamic Range slider to increase the brightness on HDR content, but the most surprising thing about the UB900 is how much it improved the 3D performance. I see very little crosstalk compared to what I was seeing previously with my Oppo BDP-93 or with the PS3. I can run the 6040 on medium 3D brightness with little ghosting. Even Rogue One, which had ghosting so bad it was totally unwatchable previously, looks like a different movie now.
> 
> I have tried only one UHD disc so far (Lucy), and I tried Oledurt's HDR settings and Harpervision (although on medium lamp, not high, and using the UB900's Dynamic Range slider to boost the brightness), I watched the UHD version all the way through and then played selected scenes on the standard blu-ray, and to be honest, the standard blu-ray looks almost if not just as good to my eye. This makes me hesitant to fully dive into the UHD pool. I might try one or two more UHD discs to see if I like any others better than the blu-ray.


The Panasonic players ub700/900 upscale blu ray extremely well to the Epson, we watched chitty chitty bang bang the other day and the quality was amazing. 
You need to be choosy with uhd titles as some are no better than the blu ray, however there's a significant improvement with the better titles.


----------



## panman40

Jem87 said:


> Seems like it's recommended everywhere to have image processing set to 'fine' when watching movies. How come? Does it really diminish the picture quality when set to "fast"? I have mine set to "fast" because I figure it would make fast movement not look so jittery.


Using fast is mainly for gaming I'm told, it won't be deinterlacing a signal properly and can cause some issues, however I sometimes use it for 3D if it's a fast paced action one.


----------



## seplant

nukequazar said:


> I searched this thread for info about the ethernet connection, and repeatedly found people saying that there's no reason to connect it unless you want to project images from a computer.
> 
> I doubted this, and took the small risk to run a Cat 6 while running a new HDMI through my ceiling conduit, and found that the advice was COMPLETELY WRONG!
> 
> There is an iOS app called Epson iProjection. It allows not only projection of images but also access to all the projector settings, so you do not have to use the onscreen menus. VERY COOL and completely worth running the cable!


Thanks for mentioning this. The app is also available for Android. I tried it, and it is pretty slick! However, at least on the Android version, it appears that only some of the commands are available without using the onscreen menus.


----------



## Dave Harper

seplant said:


> .....I have tried only one UHD disc so far (Lucy), and I tried Oledurt's HDR settings and Harpervision (although on medium lamp, not high, and using the UB900's Dynamic Range slider to boost the brightness), I watched the UHD version all the way through and then played selected scenes on the standard blu-ray, and to be honest, the standard blu-ray looks almost if not just as good to my eye. This makes me hesitant to fully dive into the UHD pool. I might try one or two more UHD discs to see if I like any others better than the blu-ray.



I really don't think you should use the UB900 Dynamic Range Slider with my settings. I've noticed it starts over cooking the settings almost immediately. I think the very most I could raise it was to 3. Even then it seemed to start lessening the effect of what settings I created. 

I think you should try high power lamp and basic settings and just watch tons of reference scenes and let it grow on you. Planet Earth II Jungle chapter is utterly mesmerizing!


----------



## jjwinterberg

Leon1972 said:


> So I just thought of something. I will have not choice but to place the projector 23 feet from the wall it will be projecting on. Is the lumens on this thing even enough for that great of a distance to make this projector worth while? What would maximum image size be recommended for this at night time viewing with full blackout of the room?
> Also, I am still wondering if i should wait until i get the new projector to purchase screen samples for picking a new screen or will both projectors have the same, or near enough, same type of results between the two projectors? In case you are just now seeing my post I am currently projecting a epson 730hd onto wall and want to upgrade to a 5040ub with some degree of ALR screen.




I'm at 21.5 feet and I have no problem illuminating a 119 inch diagonal screen with a 1.1 gain surface. The projector calculator shows I have about 100 nits. I use eco-mode almost exclusively.


I don't think you will have a problem.


----------



## robc1976

jjwinterberg said:


> I'm at 21.5 feet and I have no problem illuminating a 119 inch diagonal screen with a 1.1 gain surface. The projector calculator shows I have about 100 nits. I use eco-mode almost exclusively.
> 
> 
> I don't think you will have a problem.


 Agreed, I am at 23 3/4 on a 138" 2.35:1 on eco mode and its fantastic!


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> I really don't think you should use the UB900 Dynamic Range Slider with my settings. I've noticed it starts over cooking the settings almost immediately. I think the very most I could raise it was to 3. Even then it seemed to start lessening the effect of what settings I created.
> 
> I think you should try high power lamp and basic settings and just watch tons of reference scenes and let it grow on you. Planet Earth II Jungle chapter is utterly mesmerizing!


I tend to agree, with your settings even +1 DRS lifts black level to much, it doesn't do it with conventional settings such as hdr1.

But.. High lamp , nooooo! Lol


----------



## mikecoscia

Hey guys, close to finishing up my basement theater and I just hooked up the 5040ub and hung my 92" screen from Silver Ticket. Adjusted the image and everything looks great, I just have one issue. I can't get the projector to fill the vertical space without spilling past the horizontal edges of the screen. If I center the image, the horizontal is right on the edge of the screen and the vertical is about an 1" away from the top and bottom of the screen. It's like the screen is not in the correct 16:9 ratio. I am new to using projectors and couldn't find much online searching for solutions. Does anyone with more experience have any suggestions? Is there something I missed? I have the projector mounted on my ceiling and it's about 14' away from my 92" screen. Thanks, appreciate any and all feedback!


----------



## panman40

mikecoscia said:


> Hey guys, close to finishing up my basement theater and I just hooked up the 5040ub and hung my 92" screen from Silver Ticket. Adjusted the image and everything looks great, I just have one issue. I can't get the projector to fill the vertical space without spilling past the horizontal edges of the screen. If I center the image, the horizontal is right on the edge of the screen and the vertical is about an 1" away from the top and bottom of the screen. It's like the screen is not in the correct 16:9 ratio. I am new to using projectors and couldn't find much online searching for solutions. Does anyone with more experience have any suggestions? Is there something I missed? I have the projector mounted on my ceiling and it's about 14' away from my 92" screen. Thanks, appreciate any and all feedback!


If you don't have any trapezoidal issues and your all squared up I would say it's normal, all my projectors have had slight overspill each side when just fitting top and bottom on a 16:9 screen.


----------



## mikecoscia

panman40 said:


> If you don't have any trapezoidal issues and your all squared up I would say it's normal, all my projectors have had slight overspill each side when just fitting top and bottom on a 16:9 screen.


Thanks for the reply! Yeah, no trapezoidal issues. Just the unlit areas (underspill?) on the bottom and the top. I can make the image larger to fill them in, but then the sides spill out onto the wall. My screen bezel is only 1/2", so not much room to absorb extra light. Just want to make sure it is normal and I didn't install or setup something incorrectly. The projector lens is only about 8" or so from the ceiling (7'). I then angled the projector to hit the screen and corrected everything with image shift/keystone (-15). Maybe I should have kept the projector level and used vertical lens shift instead of messing with the keystone. Curious if that might make a difference. I'll have to see if I can even get it completely on screen with lens shift only. I really don't want to lower the projector anymore, I can barely walk under it as is....lol.


----------



## panman40

mikecoscia said:


> Thanks for the reply! Yeah, no trapezoidal issues. Just the unlit areas (underspill?) on the bottom and the top. I can make the image larger to fill them in, but then the sides spill out onto the wall. My screen bezel is only 1/2", so not much room to absorb extra light. Just want to make sure it is normal and I didn't install or setup something incorrectly. The projector lens is only about 8" or so from the ceiling (7'). I then angled the projector to hit the screen and corrected everything with image shift/keystone (-15). Maybe I should have kept the projector level and used vertical lens shift instead of messing with the keystone. Curious if that might make a difference. I'll have to see if I can even get it completely on screen with lens shift only. I really don't want to lower the projector anymore, I can barely walk under it as is....lol.


Ahh ok, I would definately level the PJ and try and use the down shift rather than keystone, it's really not recommended as it can degrade the image.
You should have enough lens shift I think.


----------



## mikecoscia

panman40 said:


> Ahh ok, I would definately level the PJ and try and use the down shift rather than keystone, it's really not recommended as it can degrade the image.
> You should have enough lens shift I think.


Okay, I'll give that a try today or tomorrow and report back. I also called up epson tech support, but they weren't very helpful. They kept thinking I was talking about the black bars when you play a 2:35:1 source on a 16:9 screen...lol.


----------



## panman40

mikecoscia said:


> Okay, I'll give that a try today or tomorrow and report back. I also called up epson tech support, but they weren't very helpful. They kept thinking I was talking about the black bars when you play a 2:35:1 source on a 16:9 screen...lol.


Nice one, hope you get it sorted, just aswell you don't have a Sony with the bottom bow...!.


----------



## darkangelism

panman40 said:


> Ahh ok, I would definately level the PJ and try and use the down shift rather than keystone, it's really not recommended as it can degrade the image.
> You should have enough lens shift I think.


I had to use keystone on mine because of trapezoidal issues and the lesser quality isn't noticeable to me. While it should still be avoided if at all possible, it doesn't seem to be as big of an issue on this projector, my guess is because of the 4k enhancement.


----------



## seplant

Dave Harper said:


> I really don't think you should use the UB900 Dynamic Range Slider with my settings. I've noticed it starts over cooking the settings almost immediately. I think the very most I could raise it was to 3. Even then it seemed to start lessening the effect of what settings I created.
> 
> I think you should try high power lamp and basic settings and just watch tons of reference scenes and let it grow on you. Planet Earth II Jungle chapter is utterly mesmerizing!


Thanks Dave, but using high power lamp mode just doesn't work in my set up because of fan noise. I would rather figure out some way to compensate for the lower lumens than try to ignore the increased background noise. I guess I could try to resurrect my hush box... 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> I probably would, but I'm not a big fan of them.
> 
> What happened to @Oledurt? Haven't heard from him in awhile. His Bright Cinema with custom gamma settings are pretty amazing too, and may work better with grey screens.


Hey,

I am still here. I am using my bright cinema isf settings for uhd and loving it. I was able to use Epson Super White with Auto (bright) HDR 1 and counter the loss in brightness using the Panasonic DMP UB-900 Dynamic Contrast at +5..

This allows me to greatly increase the contrast without losing the brightness. My Calibrator @desertdome is going to come over again and see my tweaks, and see if we can dial it in even further with the dynamic contrast setting on the panny.

I don't miss WCG at all.


----------



## Leon1972

Thank you very much for the help. I fall into pic 2 during the day and between 2 and three during the evening. I wish I could get pic 4 with lights on! That is probably due to my distance and the fact I'm showing on a wall though. I can't WAIT until i get a damn screen. lol. Always, just wanted to say thanks for the pics.



jwhn said:


> Leon,
> 
> I'm going through a similar process so maybe this will help. I have bay windows and I get brutal sun in the afternoon, but I have black out curtains. So my room can span from extreme light and an unwatchable image to essentially total darkness at night. And depending on the combinations of lights we turn on we can get everything in between. And that directly correlates to the huge range of picture quality I can get.
> 
> The pics below are 1) open windows on a sunny day (ouch) 2) a lot of lighting on in the house 3) total darkness. Left side is using a white screen and the right side grey.
> 
> The pictures that Bluer101 shared are all in a fairly dark room, I can assure you. Open those curtains and the image will start to get washed out. It's just a matter of how much light you are talking about and where it is coming from relative to the screen. We are starting to manage the light by using task lights instead of the main lights and things like that.
> 
> Based on what you've described, you would likely fall somewhere between pics 2 and 3. I guess it's just finding the right balance for your situation. If you can minimize the direct light onto the screen, you can definitely achieve a very good picture and then have a great image for movie nights (in the dark).
> 
> Anyway, I hope this helps. And thank you for your service!
> 
> Edit: I realize I should have included a more typical scenario. Here is pic 4 - a normal amount of lights on around dinner time with a normal show on. This is on Bright Cinema, default settings. It hasn't been calibrated or optimized at all. I think you will be fine.


----------



## Leon1972

You talking about the projector central calculator? I can only figure out about 20 percent of that thing. lol. Anywhere i can get a guide for it anything? I understand the concept of how distance effects the brightness and lights effect it and everything. Im just having some trouble figuring out how to read the calculator itself and a few other things.



jjwinterberg said:


> I'm at 21.5 feet and I have no problem illuminating a 119 inch diagonal screen with a 1.1 gain surface. The projector calculator shows I have about 100 nits. I use eco-mode almost exclusively.
> 
> 
> I don't think you will have a problem.


----------



## Leon1972

So two more questions about this projector and then i should be done, at least until i purchase it for myself. lol.

1. What is the ISF calibration, can i really not do it myself, how necessary is it and how much does it cost?

2. I was reading the review of this projector on projector central and I'm looking for a bit of clarification on the following
"If you want to use the 5040UB's Lens Memory to set up a Constant Image Height (CIH) rig without bothering with an anamorphic lens, the 5040UB makes it easy to adjust image size when switching between material in 2.4 format, 16:9 format, and other aspect ratios. Simply store the appropriate lens settings for each format in one of the 10 memory entries for lens position, pick a setting, and let the powered zoom, lens shift, and focus do the rest. Keep in mind that you'll need to chose a distance that will accommodate the CIH for all the aspect ratios you need."
Is this saying that For each aspect ratio type (16.9, 4:3, 2.35:1) I setup my preferences (Image placement and zoom) and then whenever I watch content in that aspect ratio i can just choose that preset setting and the projector will automatically get it all setup how i had it preset, correct? Is this an automatic thing or do i have to choose to preset setting?


----------



## jim94025

Basic set up question .....
Got my 5040ube installed and basically dialed in, but I have found that using the focus button on the remote to be a bit frustrating. There is a lag from pushing the button to the focus actually changing and it doesn't stop changing immediately after taking one's finger off the button, as well.
I've tried refocusing it a number of times and while I get close, the start and stop lag keeps me from getting super sharp ( like a manual focus).
Am I missing something ? Is it me???? My eye/ hand coordination is pretty good.... I didn't see anything about a fine focus function.


----------



## panman40

jim94025 said:


> Basic set up question .....
> Got my 5040ube installed and basically dialed in, but I have found that using the focus button on the remote to be a bit frustrating. There is a lag from pushing the button to the focus actually changing and it doesn't stop changing immediately after taking one's finger off the button, as well.
> I've tried refocusing it a number of times and while I get close, the start and stop lag keeps me from getting super sharp ( like a manual focus).
> Am I missing something ? Is it me???? My eye/ hand coordination is pretty good.... I didn't see anything about a fine focus function.


That's normal for how the focus seems to function, I just go 1 press at a time fairly rapidly in one direction until I've just gone past the sharpest image, then go the other direction until it's the sharpest I can get, you may need to go to and fro a few times. Also just Incase you were not aware it's much easier to achieve good focus with the 4K eshift enhancement turned off, the pixel structure is much easier to see this way.


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> Hey,
> 
> I am still here. I am using my bright cinema isf settings for uhd and loving it. I was able to use Epson Super White with Auto (bright) HDR 1 and counter the loss in brightness using the Panasonic DMP UB-900 Dynamic Contrast at +5..
> 
> This allows me to greatly increase the contrast without losing the brightness. My Calibrator @desertdome is going to come over again and see my tweaks, and see if we can dial it in even further with the dynamic contrast setting on the panny.
> 
> I don't miss WCG at all.


It will be interesting to see what your calibrator makes of the HDR slider and how he integrates it within the calibration, look forward to your findings.


----------



## Paul Cordingley

Dave Harper said:


> I really don't think you should use the UB900 Dynamic Range Slider with my settings. I've noticed it starts over cooking the settings almost immediately. I think the very most I could raise it was to 3. Even then it seemed to start lessening the effect of what settings I created.
> 
> I think you should try high power lamp and basic settings and just watch tons of reference scenes and let it grow on you. Planet Earth II Jungle chapter is utterly mesmerizing!


Dave,

Man I sincerely want to thank you for your HarperVision settings. Wow.

I spent ages on HDR 1 mode trying to gamma/contrast/brightness the picture better, but I could only get so far. So I switched to using Strip Metadata on the Oppo, which is great but clips low levels and high levels and has visible banding in low values. But, it was much better than I could manage otherwise.

Then I came across your settings - it simply never even occurred to me to use SDR processing and then fix it from there. This is the real deal - I am extremely impressed. Low level details are all there, and the high levels are all preserved along with smoooooth gradients - all whilst giving nice punch to the mid tones and importantly preserving P3 - I have never used anything other than Digital Cinema mode as that is one of the core reasons for buying this projector in the first place. I do admit to giving just a touch more punch to the mid level gamma settings, but you got me 99% there. Utterly amazing.

Epson really need to see this and bake this into their processing so that this is a baseline HDR setting.

You have my gratitude.


----------



## Dave Harper

mikecoscia said:


> Hey guys, close to finishing up my basement theater and I just hooked up the 5040ub and hung my 92" screen from Silver Ticket. Adjusted the image and everything looks great, I just have one issue. I can't get the projector to fill the vertical space without spilling past the horizontal edges of the screen. If I center the image, the horizontal is right on the edge of the screen and the vertical is about an 1" away from the top and bottom of the screen. It's like the screen is not in the correct 16:9 ratio. I am new to using projectors and couldn't find much online searching for solutions. Does anyone with more experience have any suggestions? Is there something I missed? I have the projector mounted on my ceiling and it's about 14' away from my 92" screen. Thanks, appreciate any and all feedback!


What is your source video you're playing? True 16x9 is ~1.78:1 aspect ratio. Some movies and sources are at 1.85:1 aspect ratio, so slightly wider and will leave a small gap top and bottom. As you go wider to ARs like 2.35:1 then the gap (letterbox bars) get bigger. 

Try raising brightness super high and then you should be able to see the raster of the native chip that's displaying your video, in this case the LCD panel of the 5040. If that matches up to your screen dimensions then you should be golden. Try playing a true 16x9 source too. 





Oledurt said:


> Hey,
> 
> 
> 
> I am still here. I am using my bright cinema isf settings for uhd and loving it. I was able to use Epson Super White with Auto (bright) HDR 1 and counter the loss in brightness using the Panasonic DMP UB-900 Dynamic Contrast at +5..
> 
> 
> 
> This allows me to greatly increase the contrast without losing the brightness. My Calibrator @desertdome is going to come over again and see my tweaks, and see if we can dial it in even further with the dynamic contrast setting on the panny.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't miss WCG at all.



Hey welcome back!

If you wouldn't mind. Could you kindly ask him to also throw in my settings real quick in Digital Cinema Mode and give some impressions and tips if he has any?




Paul Cordingley said:


> Dave,
> 
> 
> 
> Man I sincerely want to thank you for your HarperVision settings. Wow.
> 
> 
> 
> I spent ages on HDR 1 mode trying to gamma/contrast/brightness the picture better, but I could only get so far. So I switched to using Strip Metadata on the Oppo, which is great but clips low levels and high levels and has visible banding in low values. But, it was much better than I could manage otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I came across your settings - it simply never even occurred to me to use SDR processing and then fix it from there. This is the real deal - I am extremely impressed. Low level details are all there, and the high levels are all preserved along with smoooooth gradients - all whilst giving nice punch to the mid tones and importantly preserving P3 - I have never used anything other than Digital Cinema mode as that is one of the core reasons for buying this projector in the first place. I do admit to giving just a touch more punch to the mid level gamma settings, but you got me 99% there. Utterly amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> Epson really need to see this and bake this into their processing so that this is a baseline HDR setting.
> 
> 
> 
> You have my gratitude.



Wow thanks for the kind words, Paul! I am so glad you like it. 

I'm thinking of doing a Calibration tour of the mainland and including the "HarperVision Experience" as an add on, on top of the standard ISF Calibration. Hopefully they will be just as happy with it!


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

I've spent waaaaay more time and resources than I ought to have, but I've pretty conclusively determined that my 5040UBe cannot sustain 4k60, 4:2:0 over either wireless or wired. I get signal drop outs. I've been able to reduce the frequency quite a bit by moving the transmitter around and making sure I have high quality cables throughout the chain, but I can't seem to eliminate them for 4k60 content. The dropouts occur with both my PS4 Pro and gaming PC.

All of my components run into my Denon receiver, and then I have a Linker on the Denon out to the wireless transmitter. The Linker takes whatever goes in and downscales to 1080p 4:4:4. It's the only way I get no signal drops.

I'm trying to decide whether I want to go to the trouble of getting a replacement, maybe it won't even matter. Even if I had 4k60 content working, it'd be at a subsampled chroma setting (4:2:2 at 30hz or 4:4:4 at 60hz). Considering 60hz, what would you rather have: 1080p60 4:4:4, or 4k60 at 4:2:0. I'm considering just resolving myself to 1080p60 4:4:4 and not bothering with replacement. There's some slight sharpness I can perceive when the projector displays native 4k content, though at 4:2:0, I'm losing quite a bit of color information. But, that sharpness isn't that much of a difference, so perhaps retaining more color information is better anyway, in which case, why bother replacing..? Thoughts?


----------



## Dave Harper

I know UHD movies are mastered at 4:2:0. What are games mastered in? If the same, then you're not losing any color as it wasn't there to begin with.


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Dave Harper said:


> I know UHD movies are mastered at 4:2:0. What are games mastered in? If the same, then you're not losing any color as it wasn't there to begin with.


Games are rendered such that they can output 4:4:4 or full RGB color, and these days a lot of games can be rendered with HDR.


----------



## mikecoscia

Dave Harper said:


> What is your source video you're playing? True 16x9 is ~1.78:1 aspect ratio. Some movies and sources are at 1.85:1 aspect ratio, so slightly wider and will leave a small gap top and bottom. As you go wider to ARs like 2.35:1 then the gap (letterbox bars) get bigger.
> 
> Try raising brightness super high and then you should be able to see the raster of the native chip that's displaying your video, in this case the LCD panel of the 5040. If that matches up to your screen dimensions then you should be golden. Try playing a true 16x9 source too.


Thanks for the reply Dave. I was using the lens shift pattern for reference. I figured that would be using the full size of the LCD panel and allow me to align everything properly. I'm hoping to play with it tonight and try a few things. However, leaving for FL on Thursday and have a lot to get done, so might have to wait until I get back.


----------



## airbag41

I'm having an issue I'm hoping someone could help with. I just got my Oppo 203 and was playing La La Land and also Planet Earth in 4k and I'm seeing some blips and issues. I've tried factory 4k settings as well as HarperVision and still notice it from time to time. 

I tried to take a few screenshots but it was hard to capture but you can see attached. any thoughts? Is it a projector issue? Lamp? Or something else in settings I"m missing. I"ve seen some references in past posts but I'm not finding any solutions.

Thanks for help in advance.


----------



## jjwinterberg

Leon1972 said:


> You talking about the projector central calculator? I can only figure out about 20 percent of that thing. lol. Anywhere i can get a guide for it anything? I understand the concept of how distance effects the brightness and lights effect it and everything. Im just having some trouble figuring out how to read the calculator itself and a few other things.


I'm using the Projector Central calculator but the iOS version. It's pretty straightforward. I don't know of a guide. There is a support link. 

There are two calculation modes: distance or image size. Select which one you want to keep fixed and then use the zoom to vary the other parameter until you get the result you want. You can input the image size either directly as the diagonal measurement or either horizontal or vertical measurement (the image format is also a pull down selection). 

Good luck.


----------



## JoeBoy73

If anyone is undecided about this projector, you can see in person at Nebraska Furniture Mart in The Colony, Texas.

They have a 2 couple of Sonys, The Epson: 3100, 3700, and the 5040 all playing in the same area. The Sonys were not in my price range so I was able to focus my attention on the Epsons! For me, it came down to the 3700 and the 5040! After about 10min of viewing, I was able to determind the clear and obvious winner: The 5040. 

The room was filled with ambient overhead light, but it could be dimmed and I had lights lowered with very little ambient light. For me it was the shadow details...the clarity in the dark scenes that did it for me. It totally blew away the 3700 and even the Sony XRD (Maybe it needed a totally dark room?) 

Just a headsup for those who are own the fence...I'm glad to be off of it....LOL!


----------



## DireWolf08

There is a separate thread about 3D ghosting and crosstalk on this projector, but I wanted to ask here: 

One user says that switching blu-ray players to the Panasonic UB900 UHD player significantly reduced crosstalk on 3D movies. Can anyone confirm other UHD players (e.g. Samsung or Phillips) are also good about minimizing cross-talk on this projector? Looking for an excuse to upgrade my player, but don't want to spend $500 if I don't have to...


----------



## Jase25

Skylinestar said:


> Thanks. I think I'll just get from B&H. I need the mount and the bracket/plate.
> B&H # CHRPA357
> MFR # RPA357
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1292167-REG/chief_rpa357_with_slb357.html





gene4ht said:


> That "should" be fine...if you can, please post a picture of what you receive.


From what I can tell, the B&H Posting leaves out the bracket that attaches to the projector itself. That's another $118. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/search?Ntt=slb357&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

Im trying to figure out exactly what I need to mount this projector the my 8 foot ceiling. Reading all of the posts, the best I can decipher from all of the options is to use the Chief RPA357 Kit from projectorpeople.com and that kit should come with the slb357 included. I also need a Peerless ACC570 ceiling bracket to attach to my ceiling. Is this correct? Will this get the 5040UB attached to my ceiling? Is there any other minor part I am not listing here?

Thank you


----------



## Evan201

DireWolf08 said:


> There is a separate thread about 3D ghosting and crosstalk on this projector, but I wanted to ask here:
> 
> One user says that switching blu-ray players to the Panasonic UB900 UHD player significantly reduced crosstalk on 3D movies. Can anyone confirm other UHD players (e.g. Samsung or Phillips) are also good about minimizing cross-talk on this projector? Looking for an excuse to upgrade my player, but don't want to spend $500 if I don't have to...


I have the Philips 7501 player and the Samsung SSG3300GR glasses. They have paired together super nicely with my 5040ub. Everything is running to the projector through my Denon S510BT receiver. So far I have watched Avatar, Titanic, and just the beginning of the 75th Anniversary Wizard Of Oz 3D. All of these have been with High Lamp and High 3D Brightness settings. I have zero complaints. Titanic is like HOLY MOLY good. No ghosting. Minimal cross talk to the novice eye.


----------



## Dizzy810

Jase25 said:


> From what I can tell, the B&H Posting leaves out the bracket that attaches to the projector itself. That's another $118. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/search?Ntt=slb357&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=
> 
> Im trying to figure out exactly what I need to mount this projector the my 8 foot ceiling. Reading all of the posts, the best I can decipher from all of the options is to use the Chief RPA357 Kit from projectorpeople.com and that kit should come with the slb357 included. I also need a Peerless ACC570 ceiling bracket to attach to my ceiling. Is this correct? Will this get the 5040UB attached to my ceiling? Is there any other minor part I am not listing here?
> 
> Thank you


You also need a pole. There are many different sizes available. https://www.projectorpeople.com/accessories/mount-extenders-plates.asp


----------



## Jase25

Dizzy810 said:


> You also need a pole. There are many different sizes available. https://www.projectorpeople.com/accessories/mount-extenders-plates.asp


Thanks, I'll grab that piece from a big box home store.


----------



## bradr11890

i dont fully understand how all this 4k hdr stuff works and what configuration is best i have a roku premier plus connected to a marantz sr7009 connected to a epson 5040ub.. i connected an hd fury integral in between the roku and reciever.. all the hdmis are new.. i get a lot of hdcp errors and the pictures doesnt always display.. i changed the settings on the integral and it is a little better but i dont think its right yet.. does anyone know the exact configuration i need to get this working right in 4k hdr?


----------



## Evan201

bradr11890 said:


> i dont fully understand how all this 4k hdr stuff works and what configuration is best i have a roku premier plus connected to a marantz sr7009 connected to a epson 5040ub.. i connected an hd fury integral in between the roku and reciever.. all the hdmis are new.. i get a lot of hdcp errors and the pictures doesnt always display.. i changed the settings on the integral and it is a little better but i dont think its right yet.. does anyone know the exact configuration i need to get this working right in 4k hdr?


Make sure you're plugged into the HDMI 2.0 input (HDMI Input One) on the back of the epson from your receiver. Also make sure your receiver is HDCP 2.2 compliant for full 4k HDR passthrough. If its HDMI 1.4 only, you'll need a new receiver. Also Active High Speed cables like Luxe or Cabernet from monoprice are a good idea for reliable feed. Try not to exceed 35' for HDMI cable if possible.


----------



## bradr11890

Evan201 said:


> Make sure you're plugged into the HDMI 2.0 input (HDMI Input One) on the back of the epson from your receiver. Also make sure your receiver is HDCP 2.2 compliant for full 4k HDR passthrough. If its HDMI 1.4 only, you'll need a new receiver. Also Active High Speed cables like Luxe or Cabernet from monoprice are a good idea for reliable feed.


the marantz isnt hdcp 2.2 capable but the epson is.. hence why i have the hd fury integral..if i have to run a seperate cable to the projector to complete the hdcp handshake i will run an optical to my reciever from the roku..but then i will lose atmos sound.. all my cables are high end monoprice cables..


----------



## Evan201

bradr11890 said:


> the marantz isnt hdcp 2.2 capable but the epson is.. hence why i have the hd fury integral..if i have to run a seperate cable to the projector to complete the hdcp handshake i will run an optical to my reciever from the roku..but then i will lose atmos sound.. all my cables are high end monoprice cables..


You lost me. Can't help you there with all the switcheroo stuff.


----------



## darkangelism

Jase25 said:


> From what I can tell, the B&H Posting leaves out the bracket that attaches to the projector itself. That's another $118. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/search?Ntt=slb357&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=
> 
> Im trying to figure out exactly what I need to mount this projector the my 8 foot ceiling. Reading all of the posts, the best I can decipher from all of the options is to use the Chief RPA357 Kit from projectorpeople.com and that kit should come with the slb357 included. I also need a Peerless ACC570 ceiling bracket to attach to my ceiling. Is this correct? Will this get the 5040UB attached to my ceiling? Is there any other minor part I am not listing here?
> 
> Thank you


It has both parts, my order shows RPA357 w SLB357
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1292167-REG/chief_rpa357_with_slb357.html


----------



## gene4ht

Jase25 said:


> From what I can tell, the B&H Posting leaves out the bracket that attaches to the projector itself. That's another $118. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/co...&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=
> 
> Im trying to figure out exactly what I need to mount this projector the my 8 foot ceiling. Reading all of the posts, the best I can decipher from all of the options is to use the Chief RPA357 Kit from projectorpeople.com and that kit should come with the slb357 included. I also need a Peerless ACC570 ceiling bracket to attach to my ceiling. Is this correct? Will this get the 5040UB attached to my ceiling? Is there any other minor part I am not listing here?
> 
> Thank you


For the lowest/shortest profile possible (ceiling to projector distance), only two pieces are required...(1) the RPA universal mount and (2) the SLB357 custom bracket/plate specifically for the 5040/6040. By ordering/specifying the RPA357 Kit...both pieces should be included. The RPA universal mount has slots that can accommodate heavy duty screws/bolts and can be attached directly to the ceiling/joist (for a secure and safe installation, you must attach to a joist or something similar...not anchors only into drywall only. The ceiling plate is necessary and only comes into play if there is a need to extend/drop the projector lower (tall ceilings, etc.) with an extension tube. The tube (of desired length) is inserted between the "ceiling plate" and the "RPA universal mount." In some cases, confusion arises because many retailers were not aware (and some may still not be) of the availability of SLB357 custom bracket for the 5040/6040.



























Left to right: (1) RPA universal mount (original), (2) RPA universal mount (elite), (3) RPA357 Kit = RPA Universal mount + SLB357 bracket, and (4) SLB357 bracket attached to the 5040

Also can be seen in the first picture: 4 slots that can accommodate screws/bolts for attaching directly to ceiling joist and the large center opening which is "threaded" to accommodate a "threaded" extension tube...if necessary.


----------



## inspector

DireWolf08 said:


> There is a separate thread about 3D ghosting and crosstalk on this projector, but I wanted to ask here:
> 
> One user says that switching blu-ray players to the Panasonic UB900 UHD player significantly reduced crosstalk on 3D movies. Can anyone confirm other UHD players (e.g. Samsung or Phillips) are also good about minimizing cross-talk on this projector? Looking for an excuse to upgrade my player, but don't want to spend $500 if I don't have to...




The only way to stop all ghosting/crosstalk is to let the lamp warm up for at least hour. If you do, every 3D movie will play perfectly. My player is the Sammy K8500 and I have no idea what it does for ghosting.


----------



## Dave Harper

airbag41 said:


> I'm having an issue I'm hoping someone could help with. I just got my Oppo 203 and was playing La La Land and also Planet Earth in 4k and I'm seeing some blips and issues. I've tried factory 4k settings as well as HarperVision and still notice it from time to time.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to take a few screenshots but it was hard to capture but you can see attached. any thoughts? Is it a projector issue? Lamp? Or something else in settings I"m missing. I"ve seen some references in past posts but I'm not finding any solutions.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for help in advance.



Those bands of less or no color look like what happens to my LS10000 over the whole screen. I wonder if they're related?




bradr11890 said:


> the marantz isnt hdcp 2.2 capable but the epson is.. hence why i have the hd fury integral..if i have to run a seperate cable to the projector to complete the hdcp handshake i will run an optical to my reciever from the roku..but then i will lose atmos sound.. all my cables are high end monoprice cables..



Make sure the hdfury is set to HDMI 1.4. Also try putting it on the output of the receiver between it and the projector. 



mikecoscia said:


> Thanks for the reply Dave. I was using the lens shift pattern for reference. I figured that would be using the full size of the LCD panel and allow me to align everything properly. I'm hoping to play with it tonight and try a few things. However, leaving for FL on Thursday and have a lot to get done, so might have to wait until I get back.



OK thanks for the explanation. I'll have to try that on mine to see if I can give you more words of advice. 

Are you using the outer box grid lines as reference for the edges of the image by chance? Those could be the "Safe Image" area markers that are used for normal overscan that a lot of TVs and displays have. It used to be a much bigger deal when analog was king because they would hide data in the Vertical Blanking Interval of the video frames which could sometimes be seen if you didn't have some slight overscan setup. 

I would still raise brightness up a lot so you can see the actual LCD panel lit up on screen. Then use that as your edge reference. Maybe overhang it just a little bit onto the border. 

I'll check mine and get back to you.


----------



## Jase25

gene4ht said:


> For the lowest/shortest profile possible (ceiling to projector distance), only two pieces are required...(1) the RPA universal mount and (2) the SLB357 custom bracket/plate specifically for the 5040/6040. By ordering/specifying the RPA357 Kit...both pieces should be included. The RPA universal mount has slots that can accommodate heavy duty screws/bolts and can be attached directly to the ceiling/joist (for a secure and safe installation, you must attach to a joist or something similar...not anchors only into drywall only. The ceiling plate is necessary and only comes into play if there is a need to extend/drop the projector lower (tall ceilings, etc.) with an extension tube. The tube (of desired length) is inserted between the "ceiling plate" and the "RPA universal mount." In some cases, confusion arises because many retailers were not aware (and some may still not be) of the availability of SLB357 custom bracket for the 5040/6040.
> 
> View attachment 2127865
> View attachment 2127873
> View attachment 2127881
> View attachment 2127889
> 
> 
> Left to right: (1) RPA universal mount (original), (2) RPA universal mount (elite), (3) RPA357 Kit = RPA Universal mount + SLB357 bracket, and (4) SLB357 bracket attached to the 5040
> 
> Also can be seen in the first picture: 4 slots that can accommodate screws/bolts for attaching directly to ceiling joist and the large center opening which is "threaded" to accommodate a "threaded" extension tube...if necessary.


That clears it all up, thank you. I'm looking for the slimmest profile I can get with the mount so this option will be secure and work perfectly.


----------



## inspector

Evan201 said:


> Make sure you're plugged into the HDMI 2.0 input (HDMI Input One) on the back of the epson from your receiver. Also make sure your receiver is HDCP 2.2 compliant for full 4k HDR passthrough. If its HDMI 1.4 only, you'll need a new receiver. Also Active High Speed cables like Luxe or Cabernet from monoprice are a good idea for reliable feed. Try not to exceed 35' for HDMI cable if possible.



My player is a Sammy K8500. My receiver is a 6 year old Onkyo 608 7.2 and not 4K compliant. I run a 35' Monoprice Cabernet from the Epson to the Sammy. I run regular 1.4 to my Onkyo from the Sammy.


I get Full 4K HDR to the Sammy.


So, you don't need to get a new receiver, just use the one you have unless you want to use the new receiver for pass thru.


----------



## gene4ht

Jase25 said:


> That clears it all up, thank you. I'm looking for the slimmest profile I can get with the mount so this option will be secure and work perfectly.


Just one last FYI: I have my 5040 mounted exactly as I've described above...attaching the RPA universal mount using two (2) 1/4" x 2" lag bolts and two washers into the ceiling joist. All my previous PJs were mounted the same way. I've never experienced any movement whatsoever nor any image or PJ vibrations...even at extreme bass heavy SPL levels. And lastly, I can honestly say I've hung from this mount!

Tip: With the PJ mounted this close to the ceiling, it's difficult/awkward getting at the Phillips screws on the mount to adjust yaw, pitch, etc. An extra long (20") Phillips screwdriver from Lowes does the trick.


----------



## seplant

inspector said:


> The only way to stop all ghosting/crosstalk is to let the lamp warm up for at least hour. If you do, every 3D movie will play perfectly. My player is the Sammy K8500 and I have no idea what it does for ghosting.


Just passing along my experience so far with the Panasonic UB900 player...No lamp warm up necessary for near-perfect 3D.


----------



## inspector

seplant said:


> Just passing along my experience so far with the Panasonic UB900 player...No lamp warm up necessary for near-perfect 3D.


...and that could be one of the keys to our problem...the damn player!!!


Do you think Epson will buy an Oppo, Sammy, Panny or any other 4K out there to see which one does better with ghosting?


----------



## gene4ht

seplant said:


> Just passing along my experience so far with the Panasonic UB900 player...No lamp warm up necessary for near-perfect 3D.


Is your experience solely with the 900 or have you also had others? I've had literally no ghosting on my Oppo 203 or Philips 7501. Even though I've grown to like and appreciate 3D, my primary interest is in the 900's Dynamic Range Slider due to the many endorsements I've seen across various threads. Do you also concur?


----------



## seplant

gene4ht said:


> Is your experience solely with the 900 or have you also had others? I've had literally no ghosting on my Oppo 203 or Philips 7501. Even though I've grown to like and appreciate 3D, my primary interest is in the 900's Dynamic Range Slider due to the many endorsements I've seen across various threads. Do you also concur?


I had been using an Oppo BDP-93 and a Sony PS3, both of which worked perfectly with my previous Epson 6010 projector, but they both had terrible crosstalk with the 6040. I actually got the 900 for the Dynamic Range Slider also. The improvement in 3D performance was a total surprise to me.


----------



## Azekecse

Dave Harper said:


> Those bands of less or no color look like what happens to my LS10000 over the whole screen. I wonder if they're related?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure the hdfury is set to HDMI 1.4. Also try putting it on the output of the receiver between it and the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK thanks for the explanation. I'll have to try that on mine to see if I can give you more words of advice.
> 
> Are you using the outer box grid lines as reference for the edges of the image by chance? Those could be the "Safe Image" area markers that are used for normal overscan that a lot of TVs and displays have. It used to be a much bigger deal when analog was king because they would hide data in the Vertical Blanking Interval of the video frames which could sometimes be seen if you didn't have some slight overscan setup.
> 
> I would still raise brightness up a lot so you can see the actual LCD panel lit up on screen. Then use that as your edge reference. Maybe overhang it just a little bit onto the border.
> 
> I'll check mine and get back to you.


That's exactly how I line my edges, with a bit of overhang on the l/r border of the screen, you can hardly tell, but if it's short you will notice. This is how I've aligned my projector/screen for years. Have I been wrong all these years? :nerd:

On a separate note, Dave I certainly hope you're feeling better, my prayers are with you for your health...

Peace and blessings,

Arman


----------



## Jase25

gene4ht said:


> Just one last FYI: I have my 5040 mounted exactly as I've described above...attaching the RPA universal mount using two (2) 1/4" x 2" lag bolts and two washers into the ceiling joist. All my previous PJs were mounted the same way. I've never experienced any movement whatsoever nor any image or PJ vibrations...even at extreme bass heavy SPL levels. And lastly, I can honestly say I've hung from this mount!
> 
> Tip: With the PJ mounted this close to the ceiling, it's difficult/awkward getting at the Phillips screws on the mount to adjust yaw, pitch, etc. An extra long (20") Phillips screwdriver from Lowes does the trick.


So...you only have two lag bolts into your ceiling joist and it's secure? If you're hanging from it, it must be!

My ceiling joists run along with the direction that the PJ will be pointing so I will only get two lag bolts into the wood. I plan to use heavy duty sheetrock anchors for the other slots however.


----------



## gene4ht

Jase25 said:


> So...you only have two lag bolts into your ceiling joist and it's secure? If you're hanging from it, it must be!


Yep...I'm 185 and the mount didn't move at all!



Jase25 said:


> My ceiling joists run along with the direction that the PJ will be pointing so I will only get two lag bolts into the wood. I plan to use heavy duty sheetrock anchors for the other slots however.


My joists run perpendicular to yours so the added measure of the sheetrock anchors (to offset the lever effect?) should do the trick...you'll sleep very well!

Sheetrock anchors: I typically use the plastic screw type anchors rated at 75lbs each for applications like this. YMMV


----------



## bradr11890

inspector said:


> My player is a Sammy K8500. My receiver is a 6 year old Onkyo 608 7.2 and not 4K compliant. I run a 35' Monoprice Cabernet from the Epson to the Sammy. I run regular 1.4 to my Onkyo from the Sammy.
> 
> 
> I get Full 4K HDR to the Sammy.
> 
> 
> So, you don't need to get a new receiver, just use the one you have unless you want to use the new receiver for pass thru.



my problem is that im using a roku premier plus and it only has one hdmi output.. so to get sound to the reciever im using an hd fury integral but its glitchy( has to be reset often) ill probably get the roku ultra which has a separate optical out, but i will lose atmos sound if i do that...


----------



## GeneHT

inspector said:


> The only way to stop all ghosting/crosstalk is to let the lamp warm up for at least hour. If you do, every 3D movie will play perfectly. My player is the Sammy K8500 and I have no idea what it does for ghosting.


I have no ghosting with my Oppo 203 and 5040 and I don't wait for it to warm up, it looks great, I just turn everything on and through in the disc and set back and relax and watch the movie.


----------



## Bob Sorel

As a non owner of a 4k player or display, I am curious....how do you know when the disc is HDR? If I have an Atmos disc, my AVR displays "Atmos" on the front display. Is there something similar that happens when an HDR disc is being played?


----------



## robc1976

Dave harper, want to use your settings. Is there anything in the AVR or bluray player (sony UBD-X800) I need to adjust. I put in a UHD and it showed the 3820 resolution and 4:2:2. Out of the box the picture was a bit dark on "underworld blood wars" but that is a darker movie.


----------



## Jameshtx

inspector said:


> ...and that could be one of the keys to our problem...the damn player!!!
> 
> 
> Do you think Epson will buy an Oppo, Sammy, Panny or any other 4K out there to see which one does better with ghosting?


What does ghosting means?


----------



## roland6465

Bob Sorel said:


> As a non owner of a 4k player or display, I am curious....how do you know when the disc is HDR? If I have an Atmos disc, my AVR displays "Atmos" on the front display. Is there something similar that happens when an HDR disc is being played?


The Oppo 203 lights a red HDR on the front display with an HDR disc. You can also access the info on your player or display to check that the signal is HDR.


----------



## bommai

I am still on my third 5040ub. The color variations are minor enough for me to call it a day but I think I might have a bigger problem that I did not see in my previous two 5040s. Watching streaming as well as 4k discs from my Samsung k8500 player, the video blanks out for about 2-3 seconds once in a while. There is no rhyme or reason. I did not see this happen with my first two projectors. Could this be my projector or the hdmi cable. I am using 25' long hdmi cable from 7.5 years ago. I was happy that I worked when I got the 5040. I am going to test with a shorter newer cable tonight and see. It does not blank out all the time. May be once every 20 minutes or so. Has anyone's projector done this and it ended up being the projector's fault?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Jameshtx said:


> What does ghosting means?


Crosstalk/ghosting means a double image in some scenes, front or back of picture.


----------



## inspector

bommai said:


> I am still on my third 5040ub. The color variations are minor enough for me to call it a day but I think I might have a bigger problem that I did not see in my previous two 5040s. Watching streaming as well as 4k discs from my Samsung k8500 player, the video blanks out for about 2-3 seconds once in a while. There is no rhyme or reason. I did not see this happen with my first two projectors. Could this be my projector or the hdmi cable. I am using 25' long hdmi cable from 7.5 years ago. I was happy that I worked when I got the 5040. I am going to test with a shorter newer cable tonight and see. It does not blank out all the time. May be once every 20 minutes or so. Has anyone's projector done this and it ended up being the projector's fault?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's time to get a new Monoprice Cabernet High Speed Active HDMI 2.0 cable. Mine is 40' and it works perfectly. It costs about $35 total...can't beat that for a perfect cable.


I have a Sammy K8500 too and I use that as my pass thru. My receiver is a 6 year old Onkyo 608 7.2. I run a 1.4 from the Sammy to the Onkyo.


Great picture and sound!


----------



## bommai

inspector said:


> It's time to get a new Monoprice Cabernet High Speed Active HDMI 2.0 cable. I have a 35' so I know it works and mine is 40'. Mine cost about $25...can't beat that for a perfect cable.




I want to make sure it is the cable before I do this because my current cable is run through the ceiling and wall (when I built the house 7 years ago) but like a stupid guy I did not run a conduit and now it is close to impossible to replace. Yikes. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

bommai said:


> I want to make sure it is the cable before I do this because my current cable is run through the ceiling and wall (when I built the house 7 years ago) but like a stupid guy I did not run a conduit and now it is close to impossible to replace. Yikes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What I did to replace my old cable with the new was secure it tightly to the new cable (Monoprice Cabernet is directional) and pull it thru. Of course, this won't work if you tacked down your old cable.


Good luck with whatever happens!


----------



## Leon1972

inspector said:


> What I did to replace my old cable with the new was secure it tightly to the new cable (Monoprice Cabernet is directional) and pull it thru. Of course, this won't work if you tacked down your old cable.
> 
> 
> Good luck with whatever happens!


+1 Just make sure you don't secure it just at the connector. Best way I've found (I do this with cat 5 and 6 cable all the time) found to do this is use tape. cover the whole connector and about two inches of the cable itself as well. That will keep the strain off the connector and keep you from risking damaging it. covering the connector all the way down and not just a bit of the cable will eliminate the risk of the connector getting caught on something that can pull and damage it along with just simply making the run easier.


----------



## inspector

Leon1972 said:


> +1 Just make sure you don't secure it just at the connector. Best way I've found (I do this with cat 5 and 6 cable all the time) found to do this is use tape. cover the whole connector and about two inches of the cable itself as well. That will keep the strain off the connector and keep you from risking damaging it. covering the connector all the way down and not just a bit of the cable will eliminate the risk of the connector getting caught on something that can pull and damage it along with just simply making the run easier.


+1


----------



## Azekecse

bommai said:


> I want to make sure it is the cable before I do this because my current cable is run through the ceiling and wall (when I built the house 7 years ago) but like a stupid guy I did not run a conduit and now it is close to impossible to replace. Yikes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I know that feeling, I didn't run conduit either silly me, so I just ran my cable along the baseboard and ceiling with painted moulds, not the best solution, but certainly not the worst...When you buy the new cable test it out first, prior to determining how you want to run it. Hope this helps, good luck.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## ZackL04

Hey Epson guys! I have 2 brand new lamps I'm trying to get rid of for a good price. They are the ELPLP89 OEM bulb for your machines. I have them from a dual 4040 job we did for a builder who went out of business. Its never a bad idea to have a quality backup bulb.

I have them listed in the classified projector section, shoot me a PM offer if interested.


----------



## Dave Harper

Azekecse said:


> That's exactly how I line my edges, with a bit of overhang on the l/r border of the screen, you can hardly tell, but if it's short you will notice. This is how I've aligned my projector/screen for years. Have I been wrong all these years? :nerd:
> 
> On a separate note, Dave I certainly hope you're feeling better, my prayers are with you for your health...
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Arman


Yes, I am feeling much better. The antibiotic must have done its thing! Thanks! 

I am unsure how you're saying you align it though? Using the grid lines and then just zoom it in so the L/R edges are off a tad but the T/B ones just meet the borders?




robc1976 said:


> Dave harper, want to use your settings. Is there anything in the AVR or bluray player (sony UBD-X800) I need to adjust. I put in a UHD and it showed the 3820 resolution and 4:2:2. Out of the box the picture was a bit dark on "underworld blood wars" but that is a darker movie.


I haven't ever used the Sony UHD BR, but you should basically just be able to leave the settings at defaults. The 3840x2160p 4:2:2 should be good as long as it's also sending HDR and BT2020 WCG. Then in the projector you just force SDR, as it will default to HDR1 (or 2, 3, 4) when it senses the HDR WCG signal. Then apply my HarperVision settings and you're good to go!




bommai said:


> I am still on my third 5040ub. The color variations are minor enough for me to call it a day but I think I might have a bigger problem that I did not see in my previous two 5040s. Watching streaming as well as 4k discs from my Samsung k8500 player, the video blanks out for about 2-3 seconds once in a while. There is no rhyme or reason. I did not see this happen with my first two projectors. Could this be my projector or the hdmi cable. I am using 25' long hdmi cable from 7.5 years ago. I was happy that I worked when I got the 5040. I am going to test with a shorter newer cable tonight and see. It does not blank out all the time. May be once every 20 minutes or so. Has anyone's projector done this and it ended up being the projector's fault?


I am almost 100% certain it's the cable. Sorry.


----------



## jwhn

I got some basic tools to try and do some calibration. I will start with regular HD (and not attempt HDR for now). I have looked at a lot of guides and info and generally get the process. A couple questions related to this projector:

1. Should I calibrate in Natural setting? 
2. And then is it generally best to watch HD content in natural vs. Digital Cinema?
3. Any other considerations in terms of settings for the 5040UB?


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys. So I'm using some HDR settings that I believe was posted by a user on this thread earlier but I did some tweaking. I'll be honest and say that I have yet to use the infamous Harpervision Settings yet but I'm very excited to try them out. I would like to get some opinions on what I have because to my eyes, it's plenty bright enough, color pops and the shadow is good also. This is to keep HDR without going to SDR and having to manually change the Color Space from BT.20.20 back to REC 709 when not watching an HDR source. Let me know what you guys think if you try them out. And I would especially like to hear Dave's opinion if he wants to try and compare to his as well. 

Please keep in mind that these settings are combined with a 4K HDR picture. 

Color Mode - Digital Cinema
Brightness - 54
Contrast - 55
Color Saturation - 63
Tint - 54
Power Consumption - High
Auto Iris - High Speed

Sharpness - 6 on everything

Color temp - 5
Skin Tone - 3

Customized Color Temp
Offset R - 50
Offset G - 50
Offset B - 49
Gain R - 45
Gain G - 50
Gain B - 55

Image Enhancement Preset 2
Super Resolution - 3 and 3
Detail Enhancement - 21 and 21

Advanced 
Gamma - 0
RGBCMY - Saturation on all colors 58 with brightness at 43
Super White Off
Lens Iris 0

HDMI video Range - Auto
Color space - Auto
Dynamic Range - Auto Bright 
Image Processing - Fine






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

Hey guys,

Should I calibrate the picture settings on the Epson or on my Oppo uhd 203?


----------



## Jameshtx

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. So I'm using some HDR settings that I believe was posted by a user on this thread earlier but I did some tweaking. I'll be honest and say that I have yet to use the infamous Harpervision Settings yet but I'm very excited to try them out. I would like to get some opinions on what I have because to my eyes, it's plenty bright enough, color pops and the shadow is good also. This is to keep HDR without going to SDR and having to manually change the Color Space from BT.20.20 back to REC 709 when not watching an HDR source. Let me know what you guys think if you try them out. And I would especially like to hear Dave's opinion if he wants to try and compare to his as well.
> 
> Please keep in mind that these settings are combined with a 4K HDR picture.
> 
> Color Mode - Digital Cinema
> Brightness - 54
> Contrast - 55
> Color Saturation - 63
> Tint - 54
> Power Consumption - High
> Auto Iris - High Speed
> 
> Sharpness - 6 on everything
> 
> Color temp - 5
> Skin Tone - 3
> 
> Customized Color Temp
> Offset R - 50
> Offset G - 50
> Offset B - 49
> Gain R - 45
> Gain G - 50
> Gain B - 55
> 
> Image Enhancement Preset 2
> Super Resolution - 3 and 3
> Detail Enhancement - 21 and 21
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma - 0
> RGBCMY - Saturation on all colors 58 with brightness at 43
> Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI video Range - Auto
> Color space - Auto
> Dynamic Range - Auto Bright
> Image Processing - Fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What do you mean by to keep HDR without going to SDR and having to manually change the Color Space from BT.20.20 back to REC 709 when not watching an HDR source?

I just want to calibrate by Epson to have better picture then what the factory defaulted to. Will this do the job? thanks


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> I got some basic tools to try and do some calibration. I will start with regular HD (and not attempt HDR for now). I have looked at a lot of guides and info and generally get the process. A couple questions related to this projector:
> 
> 1. Should I calibrate in Natural setting?
> 2. And then is it generally best to watch HD content in natural vs. Digital Cinema?
> 3. Any other considerations in terms of settings for the 5040UB?


1. I like to use Natural for HD rec709 sources, so yes I would start there.
2. I would use Natural here, since Digital Cinema puts a DCI-P3 color filter into the light path, reducing brightness unnecessarily since HD rec709 sources don't use DCI-P3 color.
3. It really helps to at least use an HD Test Pattern disc like Spears & Munsil, AVS, DVE, Avia, etc. to at least set the basic settings like brightness, contrast, color, tint, etc. correctly. Even better, get an ISF or THX Certified tech in there to do a full calibration on it to make that puppy really sing!
4. (added by yours truly!) Try HarperVision Settings on UHD HDR WCG Bluray!!! 



JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. So I'm using some HDR settings that I believe was posted by a user on this thread earlier but I did some tweaking. I'll be honest and say that I have yet to use the infamous Harpervision Settings yet but I'm very excited to try them out. I would like to get some opinions on what I have because to my eyes, it's plenty bright enough, color pops and the shadow is good also. *This is to keep HDR without going to SDR and having to manually change the Color Space from BT.20.20 back to REC 709 when not watching an HDR source.* Let me know what you guys think if you try them out. And I would especially like to hear Dave's opinion if he wants to try and compare to his as well.
> 
> Please keep in mind that these settings are combined with a 4K HDR picture.
> 
> Color Mode - Digital Cinema
> Brightness - 54
> Contrast - 55
> Color Saturation - 63
> Tint - 54
> Power Consumption - High
> Auto Iris - High Speed
> 
> Sharpness - 6 on everything
> 
> Color temp - 5
> Skin Tone - 3
> 
> Customized Color Temp
> Offset R - 50
> Offset G - 50
> Offset B - 49
> Gain R - 45
> Gain G - 50
> Gain B - 55
> 
> Image Enhancement Preset 2
> Super Resolution - 3 and 3
> Detail Enhancement - 21 and 21
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma - 0
> RGBCMY - Saturation on all colors 58 with brightness at 43
> Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI video Range - Auto
> Color space - Auto
> Dynamic Range - Auto Bright
> Image Processing - Fine


What, you haven't tried my settings?!?!?!  Haha, jk. 

Forst off, know that my settings aren't using SDR per se'. It is still HDR from the source and the signal has all the HDR signal parameters. You're just readjusting many settings to compensate to make it look good on an SDR projector or in SDR mode.

Also, you don't have to switch bt2020 to rec709. You would just go from Digital Cinema to Natural mode and I think that built in memory would automatically set it to whatever you had in there the last time you set that mode up, which should be rec709 for both standard HD and 4K UHD. I think that's how it works if memory serves me correctly?

I will try your settings if I can and get back to you. I am back to the 5040 again, now that I had to send the LS10000 in for replacement. Once it comes back I may have my 5040UB for sale, ISF Calibrated and all "HarperVision'd Up", if anyone is interested? It has about 60 hrs on it now I believe and maybe a little more by next week when I get my replacement. I got an amazing price on it, so can pass that on to the buyer as well.


----------



## JewDaddy

Jameshtx said:


> What do you mean by to keep HDR without going to SDR and having to manually change the Color Space from BT.20.20 back to REC 709 when not watching an HDR source?
> 
> I just want to calibrate by Epson to have better picture then what the factory defaulted to. Will this do the job? thanks




Sorry if that was confusing. With the Harpervision settings, you are watching an HDR source but changing the Dynamic Range of the projector to SDR. As Dave stated, you're not losing HDR but just displaying as an SDR Range to keep the brightness. With my settings, you can keep on Auto Bright so it changes with the source you're watching whether it be an HDR or SDR source. 

If you haven't personally had time to calibrate your Epson to the kind of picture you prefer, it never hurts to start with someone's settings and then tweak to your liking. I actually prefer it that way. Let someone else do all the work and then change whatever you think needs to be changed. Just so you know, the settings I listed above are strictly for a 4K HDR source. I have a separate set of settings including a custom gamma that I use for everything else. And the good thing is that I've tweaked my regular non 4K HDR settings to where they look good on any source. So whether it be a video game, standard 1080p blu-ray, Streaming service such as Netflix or Hulu and also works well with my Satellite. It's been a constant back and forth with tweaks here and there and I'm finally at that place all of us videophiles want to be at and that's......content  Lol

Anyways, my settings might work for others or make people think I'm crazy for setting them where they're at. The main thing is to tweak and adjust to your liking. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Dave Harper said:


> 1. I like to use Natural for HD rec709 sources, so yes I would start there.
> 
> 2. I would use Natural here, since Digital Cinema puts a DCI-P3 color filter into the light path, reducing brightness unnecessarily since HD rec709 sources don't use DCI-P3 color.
> 
> 3. It really helps to at least use an HD Test Pattern disc like Spears & Munsil, AVS, DVE, Avia, etc. to at least set the basic settings like brightness, contrast, color, tint, etc. correctly. Even better, get an ISF or THX Certified tech in there to do a full calibration on it to make that puppy really sing!
> 
> 4. (added by yours truly!) Try HarperVision Settings on UHD HDR WCG Bluray!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What, you haven't tried my settings?!?!?!  Haha, jk.
> 
> 
> 
> Forst off, know that my settings aren't using SDR per se'. It is still HDR from the source and the signal has all the HDR signal parameters. You're just readjusting many settings to compensate to make it look good on an SDR projector or in SDR mode.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, you don't have to switch bt2020 to rec709. You would just go from Digital Cinema to Natural mode and I think that built in memory would automatically set it to whatever you had in there the last time you set that mode up, which should be rec709 for both standard HD and 4K UHD. I think that's how it works if memory serves me correctly?
> 
> 
> 
> I will try your settings if I can and get back to you. I am back to the 5040 again, now that I had to send the LS10000 in for replacement. Once it comes back I may have my 5040UB for sale, ISF Calibrated and all "HarperVision'd Up", if anyone is interested? It has about 60 hrs on it now I believe and maybe a little more by next week when I get my replacement. I got an amazing price on it, so can pass that on to the buyer as well.




Ha! I know right??? I will eventually get there and try Harpervision. I'm just afraid once I go Harper, I'll never go back. Lol

That's cool because I thought that the color space was something that did not change with a saved memory setting. Now I'll definitely give that shot and compare. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

JewDaddy said:


> Ha! I know right??? I will eventually get there and try Harpervision. *I'm just afraid once I go Harper, I'll never go back.* Lol...


Haha, that's what all the ladies tell me too! 

 



JewDaddy said:


> ...That's cool because I thought that the color space was something that did not change with a saved memory setting. Now I'll definitely give that shot and compare. Thanks!


I am not 100% sure, so maybe someone can chime in. It has been a few weeks since I have had the 5040 in the system.


----------



## welldun

MississippiMan said:


> Not even close....as the following clearly states......again.
> 
> 
> 
> I know this is a very long Thread...and not everyone can do effective searches on AVS for specific Topics, but as recently as last February I posted the exact referenced Part number for the Dedicated Cheif RPA 367 mount, along with a best source for a best price. Projector People.*
> Find the Post here:*
> (....and BTW....a RPA 357 is a complete Kit. )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who ever heard of such a thing?
> 
> 
> 
> ........and I responded then, back in *December*:
> 
> At the time of Gene's December post, Chief had not as of yet made available the RPA 357 Kit.....just the SLB 357 Plate. 6040's got the SLB 357, but with that Chief also included the upgraded RPA Mount with Knob Controlled Pitch & Yaw. (...Much like the Peerless...)
> 
> For gudness sake....let's not see anymore posts stating that Chief...a majot Mounting Solution Mfg... outsources components.
> 
> Rather...over the years it has always been Epson tinkering with various Mount Mfg to supply a Mount with it's "Pro" line (Dealers Only)
> 
> Kinda heresy to mention it on this Thread, but similar issues remain with people not realizing there is a dedicated Chief RPA mount for the big 'ol JVCs
> 
> So very, very sad to see people trying to use a Flea-Bay or Amazon mount on such large, expensive PJs.
> 
> Pinch a penney, hoping to save a pound...watch your projector hit the ground!


Would it too much to ask you for a measurement of the distance from ceiling to the top of the projector (the side facing the floor). My 5040ub is currently mounted with a mount that I adapted for the space where it sits. but I'd like a bit more clearance since there is a door that swings open just under the projector and it's close to grazing the projector. the top of the door is just over 10 1/2 inches from the ceiling, so the mounted projector needs to sit higher than that.


----------



## robc1976

Dumb question. Are the Harper vision settings only for uhd blue rays? I have everything 4K so will it upscale a 1080P signal so I can use these settings for 1080p, gaming pn xbox 1s? Or do I need separate settings for 1080P, gaming and everything not uhd?


----------



## ht guy

b.

Suggest Natural + adjustments for 2k.

HV is only for 4k/HDR sources.


----------



## NoTechi

nukequazar said:


> I searched this thread for info about the ethernet connection, and repeatedly found people saying that there's no reason to connect it unless you want to project images from a computer.
> 
> I doubted this, and took the small risk to run a Cat 6 while running a new HDMI through my ceiling conduit, and found that the advice was COMPLETELY WRONG!
> 
> There is an iOS app called Epson iProjection. It allows not only projection of images but also access to all the projector settings, so you do not have to use the onscreen menus. VERY COOL and completely worth running the cable!



Does anyone has his projector connected to his homenetwork via the build in wifi to use the iProjection app? I tried but I can't figure out how to connect to my homenetwork (the setting which my guess is to search for wireless networks arround is greyed out)


NoTechi


----------



## Turkisaad

*your experience in projectors*

please help me to buy projector.
I'm a little confused about Epson home theater 5040UB & Pro Cinema 6040UB
this website that shows the difference between them,there is no big difference between them only in 2 thing 
the Pro Cinema 6040UB Support ( Anamorphic Ready ) and ISF that santander for Imaging Science Foundation

http://www.projectorcentral.com/projectors-compare.cfm?pid_1=9498&pid_2=9509

is't big deal to buy the Pro Cinema 6040UB ?
I'm using the projector for Watch movies and Play Console PS4 and Xbox .

Regard


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

bommai said:


> I am still on my third 5040ub. The color variations are minor enough for me to call it a day but I think I might have a bigger problem that I did not see in my previous two 5040s. Watching streaming as well as 4k discs from my Samsung k8500 player, the video blanks out for about 2-3 seconds once in a while. There is no rhyme or reason. I did not see this happen with my first two projectors. Could this be my projector or the hdmi cable. I am using 25' long hdmi cable from 7.5 years ago. I was happy that I worked when I got the 5040. I am going to test with a shorter newer cable tonight and see. It does not blank out all the time. May be once every 20 minutes or so. Has anyone's projector done this and it ended up being the projector's fault?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm about to ask Epson for a replacement. I've tried everything I can think of to rule out my components and HDMI cables. I still experience something similar to what you describe when feeding the projector 4k content (signal dropouts). If that's happening and it wasn't happening before on the other projectors, then I'm inclined to say it's the projector.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Dumb question. Are the Harper vision settings only for uhd blue rays? I have everything 4K so will it upscale a 1080P signal so I can use these settings for 1080p, gaming pn xbox 1s? Or do I need separate settings for 1080P, gaming and everything not uhd?



It's for UHD HDR WCG signals only, be they UHD Bluray or from a streaming device.


----------



## Azekecse

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, I am feeling much better. The antibiotic must have done its thing! Thanks!
> 
> I am unsure how you're saying you align it though? Using the grid lines and then just zoom it in so the L/R edges are off a tad but the T/B ones just meet the borders?


Yes exactly, however the T/B are approximately one inch from the borders, hardly noticeable, unless you're really looking for it. I see this configuration in some Movie Theaters ...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## vantage78

As I understand it, you cannot use the pixel shift with FI turned on. How is motion on the 5040ub without FI on?


----------



## Jameshtx

JewDaddy said:


> Sorry if that was confusing. With the Harpervision settings, you are watching an HDR source but changing the Dynamic Range of the projector to SDR. As Dave stated, you're not losing HDR but just displaying as an SDR Range to keep the brightness. With my settings, you can keep on Auto Bright so it changes with the source you're watching whether it be an HDR or SDR source.
> 
> If you haven't personally had time to calibrate your Epson to the kind of picture you prefer, it never hurts to start with someone's settings and then tweak to your liking. I actually prefer it that way. Let someone else do all the work and then change whatever you think needs to be changed. Just so you know, the settings I listed above are strictly for a 4K HDR source. I have a separate set of settings including a custom gamma that I use for everything else. And the good thing is that I've tweaked my regular non 4K HDR settings to where they look good on any source. So whether it be a video game, standard 1080p blu-ray, Streaming service such as Netflix or Hulu and also works well with my Satellite. It's been a constant back and forth with tweaks here and there and I'm finally at that place all of us videophiles want to be at and that's......content  Lol
> 
> Anyways, my settings might work for others or make people think I'm crazy for setting them where they're at. The main thing is to tweak and adjust to your liking.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the explanation. It really helped. I have 2 questions. Would you mind telling me what settings you are using for non 4K hdr sources? How do I preset settings for 4K and non 4K on the Epson or does it automatically know?


----------



## Jameshtx

JewDaddy, I just answered my 2nd question by getting the manual on Epsons website


----------



## reechings

Just stalking this thread wishfully for now but was curious about how much of a jump the the 5040UB would be compared to my Optoma HD33 for black levels, brightness and picture sharpness. Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Leon1972

Well guys, sorry to waste your time. Just had a convo with the wife about the added cost of cables, 4k player and what not. Looks like, for now at least, 4k is a no go. still going to start looking again though for a cheaper non 4K projector. Besides, it looks like the HDMI length may be a no go. I need 50 ft. That seems pretty hit or miss for 4K. Thanks for all the info though.


----------



## darkangelism

Leon1972 said:


> Well guys, sorry to waste your time. Just had a convo with the wife about the added cost of cables, 4k player and what not. Looks like, for now at least, 4k is a no go. still going to start looking again though for a cheaper non 4K projector. Besides, it looks like the HDMI length may be a no go. I need 50 ft. That seems pretty hit or miss for 4K. Thanks for all the info though.


Check out of Epson 3100 it is a very similar projector without 4k enhancement.


----------



## jjwinterberg

Dave Harper said:


> I will try your settings if I can and get back to you. I am back to the 5040 again, now that I had to send the LS10000 in for replacement. Once it comes back I may have my 5040UB for sale, ISF Calibrated and all "HarperVision'd Up", if anyone is interested? It has about 60 hrs on it now I believe and maybe a little more by next week when I get my replacement. I got an amazing price on it, so can pass that on to the buyer as well.





Leon1972 said:


> Well guys, sorry to waste your time. Just had a convo with the wife about the added cost of cables, 4k player and what not. Looks like, for now at least, 4k is a no go. still going to start looking again though for a cheaper non 4K projector. Besides, it looks like the HDMI length may be a no go. I need 50 ft. That seems pretty hit or miss for 4K. Thanks for all the info though.




Hey Leon,


Not trying to make your life too difficult but before you give up you might want to shoot Dave a PM and ask about his projector^^^; if I didn't already have mine I would do it.


As far as HDMI cables, the best value I've found for longer runs is the MonoPrice SlimRun AV:


https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21567


If you wait a while and keep looking at the website, Monoprice often has 10-20% off coupons.


The 5040 is an amazing value and you + sig. other will not be disappointed.


----------



## robc1976

ht guy said:


> b.
> 
> Suggest Natural + adjustments for 2k.
> 
> HV is only for 4k/HDR sources.


I am a bit new to this, will that work with a 1080P signal? I am guessing it couldn't? No way to upscale? 

So xbox1s I can play in 2K?


----------



## darkangelism

robc1976 said:


> I am a bit new to this, will that work with a 1080P signal? I am guessing it couldn't? No way to upscale?
> 
> So xbox1s I can play in 2K?


X1S can do 4k


----------



## jwhn

Leon1972 said:


> Well guys, sorry to waste your time. Just had a convo with the wife about the added cost of cables, 4k player and what not. Looks like, for now at least, 4k is a no go. still going to start looking again though for a cheaper non 4K projector. Besides, it looks like the HDMI length may be a no go. I need 50 ft. That seems pretty hit or miss for 4K. Thanks for all the info though.


Sorry to hear that. For what its worth I am running 60' HDMI with no issues. I got one with a signal booster and it works great (so far at least).


----------



## Leon1972

jwhn said:


> Sorry to hear that. For what its worth I am running 60' HDMI with no issues. I got one with a signal booster and it works great (so far at least).




Is that at 4K? I can run 50ft HD with a built in repeater fine, but from what ive read when it comes to 4K its hit or miss if it works.


----------



## jwhn

Leon1972 said:


> Is that at 4K? I can run 50ft HD with a built in repeater fine, but from what ive read when it comes to 4K its hit or miss if it works.


Yes, 4K and HDR. I guess I was one of the "hits"


----------



## Leon1972

jwhn said:


> Yes, 4K and HDR. I guess I was one of the "hits"


Well I will admit, I am also telling myself this due to softening the blow. I think if I could get 4K up and running for 3000 total (all cords, UHD player and all) I could get her on board. lol.


----------



## jladner

reechings said:


> Just stalking this thread wishfully for now but was curious about how much of a jump the the 5040UB would be compared to my Optoma HD33 for black levels, brightness and picture sharpness. Thanks!


I'm not sure about the HD33; but, I had the Optoma HD25-LV and there is no contest - The 5040 is better is every category hands down. It is not even close (and I really liked the Optoma...but now I could never go back).


----------



## Evan201

Leon1972 said:


> Well I will admit, I am also telling myself this due to softening the blow. I think if I could get 4K up and running for 3000 total (all cords, UHD player and all) I could get her on board. lol.


5040ub $2600 
Monoprice Cabernet or Luxe cable 50' - $65 (Mine is 35' and works flawlessly)
Philips 7501 UHD Player - Roughly $180
QUAM 20x20" Shelf Mount - $60


----------



## ps2br

Hi All !

Today I have an epson 8700ub and I am very happy with it, thinking soon to upgrade, the difference is very big compared to the 5040? It is worth it, or it is better to wait for a model with native 4k with attractive price.

Thanks,
Mauricio


----------



## robc1976

darkangelism said:


> X1S can do 4k


 for bluray not gaming correct?


----------



## jwhn

Evan201 said:


> 5040ub $2600
> Monoprice Cabernet or Luxe cable 50' - $65 (Mine is 35' and works flawlessly)
> Philips 7501 UHD Player - Roughly $180
> QUAM 20x20" Shelf Mount - $60


Abe's of Maine has the 5040UB listed for $2,349. 

Do you have a screen? If not you can go DIY route and save $


----------



## Evan201

jwhn said:


> Abe's of Maine has the 5040UB listed for $2,349.
> 
> Do you have a screen? If not you can go DIY route and save $


I got the Cinegrey Designer Cut and built my own 105" screen. Frame was fairly easy. Measure twice, cut once.


----------



## Leon1972

jwhn said:


> Abe's of Maine has the 5040UB listed for $2,349.
> 
> Do you have a screen? If not you can go DIY route and save $


no i don't have a screen. thats the soul crushing (aka price increasing) aspect of it. and the only way i will convince my wife to go with a screen is if its motorized. As cheap and crappy as my current projector is I went with the white wall screen. lol. My wife and i made a deal. If i can wait until we buy a house for a REAL home theater I can get a 50k budget. She also get final approval currently on what goes in the living room so its give and take right now. The dedicated one down the line also has to be functional as a "Family Fun" room (aka game nights, sleepovers for the kids and what not) as 50k doesn't really make since to spend on a room for one person.


----------



## darkangelism

robc1976 said:


> for bluray not gaming correct?


Right, I guess I misunderstood what you meant by play


----------



## darkangelism

Leon1972 said:


> no i don't have a screen. thats the soul crushing (aka price increasing) aspect of it. and the only way i will convince my wife to go with a screen is if its motorized. As cheap and crappy as my current projector is I went with the white wall screen. lol. My wife and i made a deal. If i can wait until we buy a house for a REAL home theater I can get a 50k budget. She also get final approval currently on what goes in the living room so its give and take right now. The dedicated one down the line also has to be functional as a "Family Fun" room (aka game nights, sleepovers for the kids and what not) as 50k doesn't really make since to spend on a room for one person.


50k is an easy budget to work with as a multifunctional room with good light control. I have a living room setup, its not complete but the goal is 2 "ideal" seats 3 or 4 good seats but the ability to scale to 10-15 people for occasional events, with bar seating, and floor seating. Don't build for the one event that is once a year and sacrifice for daily use. Buy something cheaper now and when you get that house we can help you with that design then.


----------



## Dave Harper

Leon1972 said:


> Well I will admit, I am also telling myself this due to softening the blow. I think if I could get 4K up and running for 3000 total (all cords, UHD player and all) I could get her on board. lol.


You should be easily able to do that price range. See your PMs. 

Also, don't forget that the 5040 only has 10.2 Gbps HDMI chips, so the cable doesn't have to support full 18.2 Gbps bandwidth. I am using an 8 year old (but great for the time) "BestDealsCable" (Same as BetterCables, but at a BetterPrice!  ) and have run 4K 60p 4:2:0 10 bit down it's 35' length to a Sony VW675ES with no issues whatsoever. Just make sure to make it an easy upgrade path (conduit?) to pull a new and better one later on, if and when needed.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> You should be easily able to do that price range. See your PMs.
> 
> Also, don't forget that the 5040 only has 10.2 Gbps HDMI chips, so the cable doesn't have to support full 18.2 Gbps bandwidth. I am using an 8 year old (but great for the time) "BestDealsCable" (Same as BetterCables, but at a BetterPrice!  ) and have run 4K 60p 4:2:0 10 bit down it's 35' length to a Sony VW675ES with no issues whatsoever. Just make sure to make it an easy upgrade path (conduit?) to pull a new and better one later on, if and when needed.


dave, I know know your busy as Hell but do you think you will ever post settings for 1080P since lots of Blu-ray are still 1080P?


----------



## NickS

robc1976 said:


> dave, I know know your busy as Hell but do you think you will ever post settings for 1080P since lots of Blu-ray are still 1080P?


+1


----------



## inspector

Just talked to Epson and I threw another wrench into the works. There seems to be a problem with what 3D/4K player that we are using. The players are:


Sammy K8500
Oppo 203
Philips 7501
Panny 900


It seems that some of these players when you throw a 3Der in cold there is no ghosting...the others must wait while the lamp warms up.


Epson said that the engineers from Japan will be advised of the new problem.


I hope to know something next week and he understood why I won't send mine back...I'd lose $400 that I had the PJ ISFed.


Hopefully a fix can be done with a FW update...keeping fingers crossed!


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> dave, I know know your busy as Hell but do you think you will ever post settings for 1080P since lots of Blu-ray are still 1080P?


OK, I will try to get to that tonight then, weekend at the latest. I did an initial calibration when the lamp was pretty new (under ~20 hrs). I was going to wait until I got to about 100 hrs to tweak it again, but I can do a quick one for you....since you begged! 



inspector said:


> Just talked to Epson and I threw another wrench into the works. There seems to be a problem with what 3D/4K player that we are using. The players are:
> 
> Sammy K8500
> Oppo 203
> Philips 7501
> Panny 900
> 
> *It seems that some of these players when you throw a 3Der in cold there is no ghosting...the others must wait while the lamp warms up.*
> 
> Epson said that the engineers from Japan will be advised of the new problem.
> 
> I hope to know something next week and he understood why I won't send mine back...I'd lose $400 that I had the PJ ISFed.
> 
> Hopefully a fix can be done with a FW update...keeping fingers crossed!


Can you clarify which is which?


----------



## peterbund

Is there any big difference in response time between 5040ub, 6040ub, EH-TW7300 and EH-TW9300? This projectors all looks very similar..They all have eshift, similar design...I saw EH-TW7300 and it is nice but I don't like much it's response time in games. Objects often not moving smooth in games.


----------



## Leon1972

darkangelism said:


> 50k is an easy budget to work with as a multifunctional room with good light control. I have a living room setup, its not complete but the goal is 2 "ideal" seats 3 or 4 good seats but the ability to scale to 10-15 people for occasional events, with bar seating, and floor seating. Don't build for the one event that is once a year and sacrifice for daily use. Buy something cheaper now and when you get that house we can help you with that design then.


Yup. EXACTLY. It is going to be what we have started referring to as our "Fun Room". It will be where we play with the kids, watch movies, there will be a bar for the adults. It will be capable of hosting friendly get togethers. ALL the good stuff!!!! Well just put in tracked black velvet curtains along the walls if the are not projector friendly. Then we can have a room that isn't dark and depressing but can still be VERY conducive to movie night!


----------



## inspector

Dave Harper said:


> OK, I will try to get to that tonight then, weekend at the latest. I did an initial calibration when the lamp was pretty new (under ~20 hrs). I was going to wait until I got to about 100 hrs to tweak it again, but I can do a quick one for you....since you begged!
> 
> 
> 
> Can you clarify which is which?



Sure...


Sammy K8500 - ($250) problem
Oppo 203 ($600) - no problem
Philips 7501 ($300) - problem
Panny 900 ($700) - no problem


It seems only the expensive ones play 3D with no problem. 


Let's hope they come in with a fix...hopefully a firm ware!!!


I can't afford to lose my $400 ISF calibration!


Inspector


----------



## ayrton

bommai said:


> I want to make sure it is the cable before I do this because my current cable is run through the ceiling and wall (when I built the house 7 years ago) but like a stupid guy I did not run a conduit and now it is close to impossible to replace. Yikes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You are welcome to borrow my chainsaw. Shipping is on you..


----------



## Rpmartinez

Raffy87 said:


> It's my understanding you can't. I'm running Simple Control; while not iRule, if I understand correctly they both operate under the same premise. I control my 5040 through an iTach IR Remitter that Simple Control recognizes. I stuck the transmitter onto the back sensor of the projector. Works great! I would think you'd be able to do the same thing with iRule. I'm hoping I'll be to control via IP at some point but haven't been able to yet.


Hey Raffy,
I saw your post about not being able to IP control your epson 5040UB.
Well I just purchased one and had the same issue and contacted an engineer I know at Simple control.
And he told me to enable AMX discovery & Control4 SDDP which can be found under Menu > Network > Network Configuration > Others
and also to make sure that in extended settings on the main menu page is has standby mode set to communication on.

I then added the epson to my simple control thru manual ip & port 4352
and selected the Epson LS10000 option and bam that worked!
It's very limited in that it only has power on/off & source selection but thats all I needed.

Hope that helps you out.


----------



## deagle007

Leon1972 said:


> Well guys, sorry to waste your time. Just had a convo with the wife about the added cost of cables, 4k player and what not. Looks like, for now at least, 4k is a no go. still going to start looking again though for a cheaper non 4K projector. Besides, it looks like the HDMI length may be a no go. I need 50 ft. That seems pretty hit or miss for 4K. Thanks for all the info though.


May want to look at the 5040ube wireless option


----------



## ayrton

NoTechi said:


> Does anyone has his projector connected to his homenetwork via the build in wifi to use the iProjection app? I tried but I can't figure out how to connect to my homenetwork (the setting which my guess is to search for wireless networks arround is greyed out)
> 
> 
> NoTechi


The 5040 doesn't have built in WiFi. (ask me how I know). Epson has a WiFi adapter that plugs into the USB port on the PJ for ~ $100.

I don't have the phone app so I can't tell you how it works. Bought mine to FW update, which won't work over network on this box.


----------



## Dave Harper

Leon1972 said:


> Yup. EXACTLY. It is going to be what we have started referring to as our "Fun Room". It will be where we play with the kids, watch movies, there will be a bar for the adults. It will be capable of hosting friendly get togethers. ALL the good stuff!!!! Well just put in tracked black velvet curtains along the walls if the are not projector friendly. Then we can have a room that isn't dark and depressing but can still be VERY conducive to movie night!


That sounds almost exactly how I have my room right now. Hawaii isn't very conducive to basements and houses big enough to have extra rooms, etc. and have crazy prices!  You will love it!


----------



## bluer101

Leon1972 said:


> Well guys, sorry to waste your time. Just had a convo with the wife about the added cost of cables, 4k player and what not. Looks like, for now at least, 4k is a no go. still going to start looking again though for a cheaper non 4K projector. Besides, it looks like the HDMI length may be a no go. I need 50 ft. That seems pretty hit or miss for 4K. Thanks for all the info though.


Wow that stinks. Just to let you know I have not fed my 5040ub a 4K signal yet. I'm still very happy with bluray quality with 4K enhance plus my Oppo 103d.


----------



## jbrazda

inspector said:


> Sure...
> 
> 
> Sammy K8500 - ($250) problem
> Oppo 203 ($600) - no problem
> Philips 7501 ($300) - problem
> Panny 900 ($700) - no problem
> 
> 
> It seems only the expensive ones play 3D with no problem.
> 
> 
> Let's hope they come in with a fix...hopefully a firm ware!!!
> 
> 
> I can't afford to lose my $400 ISF calibration!
> 
> 
> Inspector




My Phillips 7501 does 3d perfectly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## darkangelism

inspector said:


> Sure...
> 
> 
> Sammy K8500 - ($250) problem
> Oppo 203 ($600) - no problem
> Philips 7501 ($300) - problem
> Panny 900 ($700) - no problem
> 
> 
> It seems only the expensive ones play 3D with no problem.
> 
> 
> Let's hope they come in with a fix...hopefully a firm ware!!!
> 
> 
> I can't afford to lose my $400 ISF calibration!
> 
> 
> Inspector


Well now I am curious about the Sony X800 and Xbox One S, I am close to pulling the trigger on a UB900 refurb from ebay for $450. The amount of savings is worth the risk I think, but if the X800 works I may wait for the UB400 to go to Canada and then have it imported.


----------



## inspector

jbrazda said:


> My Phillips 7501 does 3d perfectly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


But are you putting a 3D movie in cold, once the PJ turns on? Or are you waiting a bit before you do? You have to tell it like it is for Epson to come up with a fix for the rest of us.


----------



## Dave Harper

darkangelism said:


> Well now I am curious about the Sony X800 and Xbox One S, I am close to pulling the trigger on a UB900 refurb from ebay for $450. The amount of savings is worth the risk I think, but if the X800 works I may wait for the UB400 to go to Canada and then have it imported.


I would jump on that UB900 for $450, as long as you have a return option if anything is wrong! I got mine for about $470 and feel it was a total steal! It was an open box clearance from BB.


----------



## ht guy

bluer101 said:


> Wow that stinks. Just to let you know I have not fed my 5040ub a 4K signal yet. I'm still very happy with bluray quality with 4K enhance plus my Oppo 103d.


Agreed.

Was just going to suggest that Leon not upgrade his cable or player - for now... 

5040 enhancement of blu-ray (2k) is so good some 5040 owners in this thread have questioned weather the cost to up to a 4k player is worth it. If you decide you want 4k later, player prices will likely be lower, and you can run the new cable then.

In the meantime, you will be amazed by what this projector can do.


----------



## ht guy

robc1976 said:


> I am a bit new to this, will that work with a 1080P signal? I am guessing it couldn't? No way to upscale?
> 
> So xbox1s I can play in 2K?


Yes, 2k is short-hand for 1080p, and it works great with a 1080p signal.


----------



## bommai

ayrton said:


> You are welcome to borrow my chainsaw. Shipping is on you..



I have pictures from when I built my house and the only problem I will have fishing new cable by tying it to the existing cable is where it goes through the ceiling plate. My builder put foam insulation to seal all the holes I made while running cables. This foam will prevent me from pulling the cable through. I am wondering if I can make a small hole in the dry wall by the ceiling plate and remove that foam to loosen the cable so that I can fish the new cable by taping it to the existing cable and pulling it. Otherwise I might just leave this alone and route the new cable on the ceiling and wall and use a cable management raceway. Any ideas what I should get. I would prefer dark color or black raceway since my ceiling and walls are painted dark. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

robc1976 said:


> for bluray not gaming correct?






XBOX Scorpio will have 4K gaming, but it won't come out till the holidays in 2017


----------



## robc1976

ht guy said:


> Yes, 2k is short-hand for 1080p, and it works great with a 1080p signal.


 awesome! Thank you for th info


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> OK, I will try to get to that tonight then, weekend at the latest. I did an initial calibration when the lamp was pretty new (under ~20 hrs). I was going to wait until I got to about 100 hrs to tweak it again, but I can do a quick one for you....since you begged!


your the man!


----------



## ayrton

bommai said:


> I have pictures from when I built my house and the only problem I will have fishing new cable by tying it to the existing cable is where it goes through the ceiling plate. My builder put foam insulation to seal all the holes I made while running cables. This foam will prevent me from pulling the cable through. I am wondering if I can make a small hole in the dry wall by the ceiling plate and remove that foam to loosen the cable so that I can fish the new cable by taping it to the existing cable and pulling it. Otherwise I might just leave this alone and route the new cable on the ceiling and wall and use a cable management raceway. Any ideas what I should get. I would prefer dark color or black raceway since my ceiling and walls are painted dark.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've seen Crown Molding for your ceiling that can be used for a raceway for low voltage cables.
https://www.racewaycrown.com/

Bought a Sammy 8500 BTW.

Best of luck! Let us know..


----------



## rmilyard

ayrton said:


> I've seen Crown Molding for your ceiling that can be used for a raceway for low voltage cables.
> https://www.racewaycrown.com/
> 
> Bought a Sammy 8500 BTW.
> 
> Best of luck! Let us know..


I used that Raceway molding. Great stuff! Tons of room for wires etc. Easy to install.


----------



## panman40

inspector said:


> Sure...
> 
> 
> Sammy K8500 - ($250) problem
> Oppo 203 ($600) - no problem
> Philips 7501 ($300) - problem
> Panny 900 ($700) - no problem
> 
> 
> It seems only the expensive ones play 3D with no problem.
> 
> 
> Let's hope they come in with a fix...hopefully a firm ware!!!
> 
> 
> I can't afford to lose my $400 ISF calibration!
> 
> 
> Inspector


I don't know where you heard this about some players have crosstalk from cold but I find it hard to believe, the problems with crosstalk lies with the Epson imo. Let's hope Epson don't just blame a player now and stop looking for an improvement for the projectors themselves!.

I'm using low glasses brightness but it is to dark and obscures colours too, medium is better but then crosstalk starts to creep in here n there.


----------



## jaggajatt

Hi Dave, hope your keeping well...I first just wanted to say thank you for contribution to this thread been a massive help!

I'm struggling to find the correct settings for SDR content your settings works great for HDR, my source is an Nvidia Sheild (set output 4k24 4:2:2 12bit). Would you/anyone else here be able to share or PM me with your SDR settings including RGB Offset/Gains, CMS and gamma? Also, are there any changes to RGB Offset/Gains and CMS can suggested for Harpervision HDR setting? 

Really appreciate any help you can provide, I've spent numerous hours toying and understand your setting may not correlate 100% really just need a solid baseline.


----------



## Leon1972

So I have decided we will wait for a projector until we can eek out just a bit more money. Ive been looking at other projectors and just cant do it now. they look so flat and colorless in comparison! Even at the 2000 price range. lol. The even bigger reason is because I have found out I may be going to Germany and housing may not accommodate a projector at all. Ill be pissed if I spend over 2000 on a projector and am unable to use it for 3 years! lol


After the comments on many people not even upgrading to 4K yet and being HIGHLY satisfied with the better 1080 picture this projector provides im wondering something. Are most of the pictures on this thread 4K , 1080 or a good mix of both? I ask because im having trouble telling the difference if its a mix!


How many of you actually get the ISF calibration? I am loving these gorgeous pics but cant justify the ISF calibration expense if that's why they look so great.


----------



## mkkris

Hello,

So I have decided to purchase 5040 and I am looking at ceiling mounts available. My requirement is that top of the projector lens need to be ~13-14" from the ceiling so I have to work backwards to figure out which ceiling mount will work. I have found Crimson mounts, more specifically:

JKR --> https://crimsonav.com/product-type/projector-mounts/ceiling/jkr.html
JKR2 --> https://crimsonav.com/product-type/projector-mounts/ceiling/jkr2.html

...along with the lowest extension adapter (6" - 11") which together with the mount will result in desired 13-14" ceiling-to-top-lens height.

Does anyone use either of these mounts and will either of them work with 5040 (as far as mounting bracket holes)?

Any other (perhaps cheaper) recommendations for a mount that will result in lens being ~13-14" from the ceiling?

Thank you in advance
-kris


----------



## darkangelism

mkkris said:


> Hello,
> 
> So I have decided to purchase 5040 and I am looking at ceiling mounts available. My requirement is that top of the projector lens need to be ~13-14" from the ceiling so I have to work backwards to figure out which ceiling mount will work. I have found Crimson mounts, more specifically:
> 
> JKR --> https://crimsonav.com/product-type/projector-mounts/ceiling/jkr.html
> JKR2 --> https://crimsonav.com/product-type/projector-mounts/ceiling/jkr2.html
> 
> ...along with the lowest extension adapter (6" - 11") which together with the mount will result in desired 13-14" ceiling-to-top-lens height.
> 
> Does anyone use either of these mounts and will either of them work with 5040 (as far as mounting bracket holes)?
> 
> Any other (perhaps cheaper) recommendations for a mount that will result in lens being ~13-14" from the ceiling?
> 
> Thank you in advance
> -kris


The one most of us recommend is the Chief RPA357 kit. With this being such a big projector don't cheap out on the mount. You don't want a mount failure and to lose the projector or worse hurt somebody.


----------



## mkkris

darkangelism said:


> The one most of us recommend is the Chief RPA357 kit. With this being such a big projector don't cheap out on the mount. You don't want a mount failure and to lose the projector or worse hurt somebody.


Thanks darkangelism, don't mind spending the money for quality product but if something cheaper is out there, I'm listening. 

As far as Chief RPA357 kit, I see it is only a bracket. How would one mount it to ceiling? Looks like it would need some additional parts. Remember, I'm working with very specific distance between ceiling and top of the lens.


----------



## bommai

ayrton said:


> I've seen Crown Molding for your ceiling that can be used for a raceway for low voltage cables.
> 
> https://www.racewaycrown.com/
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a Sammy 8500 BTW.
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck! Let us know..




Looks nice. They say it can be painted as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mkkris

mkkris said:


> Thanks darkangelism, don't mind spending the money for quality product but if something cheaper is out there, I'm listening.
> 
> As far as Chief RPA357 kit, I see it is only a bracket. How would one mount it to ceiling? Looks like it would need some additional parts. Remember, I'm working with very specific distance between ceiling and top of the lens.


Nvm darkangelism... Found a solution. Thank you for recommendation.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/588462-REG/Chief_KITEF009012_Projector_Ceiling_Mount_Kit.html


----------



## JoeBoy73

Leon1972 said:


> Well guys, sorry to waste your time. Just had a convo with the wife about the added cost of cables, 4k player and what not. Looks like, for now at least, 4k is a no go. still going to start looking again though for a cheaper non 4K projector. Besides, it looks like the HDMI length may be a no go. I need 50 ft. That seems pretty hit or miss for 4K. Thanks for all the info though.


I've seen the 3100 and the 3700 in person....to me the 3700 had a better picture. However it is a few hundred more than the 3100.


----------



## Leon1972

JoeBoy73 said:


> I've seen the 3100 and the 3700 in person....to me the 3700 had a better picture. However it is a few hundred more than the 3100.



Thanks, but now that ive been drooling over the pictures in this thread nothing else will cut the mustard. Ive decided if im not going to Germany I will save what I need if that's what I need to do. I just cant have anything else anymore. Thanks guys! You all ruined any other projector for me! haha. :grin:


----------



## seplant

Leon1972 said:


> So I have decided we will wait for a projector until we can eek out just a bit more money. Ive been looking at other projectors and just cant do it now. they look so flat and colorless in comparison! Even at the 2000 price range. lol. The even bigger reason is because I have found out I may be going to Germany and housing may not accommodate a projector at all. Ill be pissed if I spend over 2000 on a projector and am unable to use it for 3 years! lol
> 
> 
> After the comments on many people not even upgrading to 4K yet and being HIGHLY satisfied with the better 1080 picture this projector provides im wondering something. Are most of the pictures on this thread 4K , 1080 or a good mix of both? I ask because im having trouble telling the difference if its a mix!
> 
> 
> How many of you actually get the ISF calibration? I am loving these gorgeous pics but cant justify the ISF calibration expense if that's why they look so great.


To be honest, I have a hard time being able to tell a difference between 4K and upscaled 1080p content. I watched Lucy last week and took pictures with my phone of scenes that I thought looked incredible in 4K, but when I popped in the standard blu-ray and went to those same scenes, I couldn't tell the difference! Even examining the photos very closely on a computer I still couldn't see much difference. The upscaling on these projectors is nothing short of incredible! 



Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Leon1972

seplant said:


> To be honest, I have a hard time being able to tell a difference between 4K and upscaled 1080p content. I watched Lucy last week and took pictures with my phone of scenes that I thought looked incredible in 4K, but when I popped in the standard blu-ray and went to those same scenes, I couldn't tell the difference! I even took photos with my phone and then examined very closely on a computer and still couldn't see much difference. The upscaling on these projectors is nothing short of incredible!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


This settles it! I will wait until I know if I'm going to Germany. If I don't go and don't have the money for one new by then i will save while looking for a reputable seller for a used one maybe.


----------



## Leon1972

ht guy said:


> Agreed.
> 
> Was just going to suggest that Leon not upgrade his cable or player - for now...
> 
> 5040 enhancement of blu-ray (2k) is so good some 5040 owners in this thread have questioned weather the cost to up to a 4k player is worth it. If you decide you want 4k later, player prices will likely be lower, and you can run the new cable then.
> 
> In the meantime, you will be amazed by what this projector can do.


So I can enhance a blu-ray still without a new cable? I just looked at the specs on my cable and it only supports 4Gbps


----------



## Bob Sorel

For those who want to create links to posts in this thread, their signatures, or anywhere else where they would like to link directly to the post:

1. Go to the post that you want to link to.
2. In the bar above the post, at the far right side, you will find something like "post #xxxx of yyyy" - THAT is the link to the post.
3. Right click on that link and then choose "save link as..." - That will copy the link to your clipboard.
4. Paste the link wherever you want....you now have created a direct link to the post that should work for everyone.

I was a moderator here for about 13 years....I'm posting this information because it is hard to break old habits...


----------



## Leon1972

So for the HDR and stuff does my receiver need to be anything other than HDCP 2.2 compliant? My 2.1 channel setup is only 2 months old so i at least made sure THAT was future proofed and got a 4k compatible receiver! lol.


----------



## Dave Harper

jaggajatt said:


> Hi Dave, hope your keeping well...I first just wanted to say thank you for contribution to this thread been a massive help!
> 
> I'm struggling to find the correct settings for SDR content your settings works great for HDR, my source is an Nvidia Sheild (set output 4k24 4:2:2 12bit). Would you/anyone else here be able to share or PM me with your SDR settings including RGB Offset/Gains, CMS and gamma? Also, are there any changes to RGB Offset/Gains and CMS can suggested for Harpervision HDR setting?
> 
> Really appreciate any help you can provide, I've spent numerous hours toying and understand your setting may not correlate 100% really just need a solid baseline.


You're welcome very much jaggajatt! Others have asked for this recently too and I am working on just that. Hopefully I will have time before the end of the weekend. I wll post here with my settings when I have them all compiled.




Leon1972 said:


> This settles it! I will wait until I know if I'm going to Germany. If I don't go and don't have the money for one new by then *i will save while looking for a reputable seller for a used one maybe.*


Like me and my 5040UB with ISF Calibration and HarperVision pre-installed! 




Leon1972 said:


> So I can enhance a blu-ray still without a new cable? I just looked at the specs on my cable and it only supports 4Gbps


You should be fine with that cable if all you're doing is sending 1080p down it and doing all your scaling in the projector. Don't use anything like an AVR, source or video processor/scaler to scale it up to 4K or else your cable may choke at that point.




Leon1972 said:


> So for the HDR and stuff does my receiver need to be anything other than HDCP 2.2 compliant? My 2.1 channel setup is only 2 months old so i at least made sure THAT was future proofed and got a 4k compatible receiver! lol.


You should be good to go if you have a receiver that supports HDMI 2.0 with HDCP 2.2. Although as you mentioned before, your cables may not support it so don't do 4K until you upgrade them and they do.


----------



## Leon1972

Dave Harper said:


> You're welcome very much jaggajatt! Others have asked for this recently too and I am working on just that. Hopefully I will have time before the end of the weekend. I wll post here with my settings when I have them all compiled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like me and my 5040UB with ISF Calibration and HarperVision pre-installed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be fine with that cable if all you're doing is sending 1080p down it and doing all your scaling in the projector. Don't use anything like an AVR, source or video processor/scaler to scale it up to 4K or else your cable may choke at that point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be good to go if you have a receiver that supports HDMI 2.0 with HDCP 2.2. Although as you mentioned before, your cables may not support it so don't do 4K until you upgrade them and they do.


EXACTLY like yours David! Your offer was amazing and awesome, but unfortunately as can happen, life can get in the way and it all comes down to timing. If it weren't for Germany we would have gone for it in a HEARTBEAT. Military housing overseas just won't accommodate for a large image and possibly won't even be configured well for a projector period. I would hate to buy something i can only use for six months then unable to use for three whole years. especially since leaps and bounds will be made in that time on the 4k front! If i KNEW i could use it over there that would be a different story.


----------



## Dave Harper

Leon1972 said:


> EXACTLY like yours David! Your offer was amazing and awesome, but unfortunately as can happen, life can get in the way and it all comes down to timing. If it weren't for Germany we would have gone for it in a HEARTBEAT. Military housing overseas just won't accommodate for a large image and possibly won't even be configured well for a projector period. I would hate to buy something i can only use for six months then unable to use for three whole years. especially since leaps and bounds will be made in that time on the 4k front! If i KNEW i could use it over there that would be a different story.


I understand!

Funny you should mention Base Housing. That is where I first had my first "Home Theater" experience in 1988/89 timeframe. My friend, an air refueling boom operator, bought a system from H.H. Gregg that consisted of something like a Sony 40" Trinitron CRT monitor, some speakers, a nice VCR and one of those fancy Dobly Surround with Pro Logic receivers. He invited me over to his house (I was in the dorms as a young, single airman) for dinner and a demo. He sat me down in the sweet spot chair, a nice Lazy-Boy recliner, and proceeded to put on the VHS copy of Batman and Top Gun. That was it, I was blown away by the audio surround experience and the "big screen" and got hooked from that day on, knowing I would have my own some day! I think the next weekend we both went down to Indy to a High End Dealer and muttered the secret password and they took us upstairs to their theater room for a private demo. It had one of those fancy new SharpVision LCD projectors (they looked like staring through a screen door, haha!), a LaserDisc player playing Top Gun (again) and awesome speakers and surround sound! That was the nail in the coffin that made me realize I would have and be in the "Home Theater" business for the rest of my life!!! 

I then proceeded to go out and buy my own Pioneer Dolby Surround Receiver, speakers, VCR and big CRT TV for my little dorm/barracks room. In about 1994/5 I got my first "real" theater setup in the basement of our duplex condo when I acquired a 480i Panasonic CRT projector from my work as the AV Business Unit Manager for RT Grim Electronics that was left there since it was quoted too high to repair to the original owner. It ended up costing me 98 cents to fix for two new capacitors from Radio Shack! Then not too long after a Barco BG800, various Electrohome Marquee CRTs, a Sony D50, G70 and G90 CRTs, then I helped design and field the TAW HD800/900 CRTs and Rock+ scaler.....and the rest is history, HarperVision was born! 

Oh sorry for the long off topic rant. you made me all nostalgic and stuff mentioning base housing!


----------



## Leon1972

Dave Harper said:


> I understand!
> 
> Funny you should mention Base Housing. That is where I first had my first "Home Theater" experience in 1988/89 timeframe. My friend, an air refueling boom operator, bought a system from H.H. Gregg that consisted of something like a Sony 40" Trinitron CRT monitor, some speakers, a nice VCR and one of those fancy Dobly Surround with Pro Logic receivers. He invited me over to his house (I was in the dorms as a young, single airman) for dinner and a demo. He sat me down in the sweet spot chair, a nice Lazy-Boy recliner, and proceeded to put on the VHS copy of Batman and Top Gun. That was it, I was blown away by the audio surround experience and the "big screen" and got hooked from that day on, knowing I would have my own some day! I think the next weekend we both went down to Indy to a High End Dealer and muttered the secret password and they took us upstairs to their theater room for a private demo. It had one of those fancy new SharpVision LCD projectors (they looked like staring through a screen door, haha!), a LaserDisc player playing Top Gun (again) and awesome speakers and surround sound! That was the nail in the coffin that made me realize I would have and be in the "Home Theater" business for the rest of my life!!!
> 
> I then proceeded to go out and buy my own Pioneer Dolby Surround Receiver, speakers, VCR and big CRT TV for my little dorm/barracks room. In about 1994/5 I got my first "real" theater setup in the basement of our duplex condo when I acquired a 480i Panasonic CRT projector from my work as the AV Business Unit Manager for RT Grim Electronics that was left there since it was quoted too high to repair to the original owner. It ended up costing me 98 cents to fix for two new capacitors from Radio Shack! Then not too long after a Barco BG800, various Electrohome Marquee CRTs, a Sony D50, G70 and G90 CRTs, then I helped design and field the TAW HD800/900 CRTs and Rock+ scaler.....and the rest is history, HarperVision was born!
> 
> Oh sorry for the long off topic rant. you made me all nostalgic and stuff mentioning base housing!


All good man! All good! Its good to reminisce!
Wow, I don't even remember back that long ago. lol. I can't imagine what home theater was like back then! Did you guys even think Home theater would be where it is today back then? What did you think it would be?
By Indy do you mean Indiana? Im from just outside Chicago!


----------



## Dave Harper

Leon1972 said:


> All good man! All good! Its good to reminisce!
> Wow, I don't even remember back that long ago. lol. I can't imagine what home theater was like back then! Did you guys even think Home theater would be where it is today back then? What did you think it would be?
> By Indy do you mean Indiana? Im from just outside Chicago!


Well, I recall my uncle having one of those flip open coffee table/curved silver screen CRT sets, and I remember CRT projectors and I think reading about SharpVision and drooling. I was always into VCRs when they first came out, stereo systems and home electronics. I figured it would keep moving forward since blockbusters like Star Wars, Top Gun and the like were being made by then.

Yes, I mean Indianapolis. I was stationed about an hour+ north in Peru, IN about 20 minutes north of Kokomo, at Grissom AFB. It is now just an AF Reserve base I think.


----------



## panman40

@ Dave Harper,

Dave I know you may not have time but did you think anymore about a good custom gamma for 3D ?,

I use cinema 3D / medium lamp but I'm always swapping between gamma 0 and +1 depending on the film which is annoying. 

I remember on my Sony hw65es there were several preset gammas including '10' which had amazing brightness and pop, I didn't use it but always had it reserved for when I suffered lamp dimming, I know it's possible to gain a brighter image with better pop by adjusting gamma so if you do come up with something that would be great!.


----------



## ehq

Hey everyone,

I've looked through the posts in this thread for hours but couldn't find a solution to my problem, so I figured I'd ask:

I have my 5040ub hooked up to my PC directly via a high speed HDMI cable. My PC is running a Titan X Pascal. I can get 4k60fps just fine and it looks amazing, but I cannot get ANY kind of HDR signal from my PC.

I'm trying to play Mass Effect Andromeda or Resident Evil 7 in 1080p60fps with HDR, and I have the latest drivers, projector updated with the latest firmware and in theory it should just work, but I've tried everything, all color and resolution settings in the Nvidia Control Panel, and still it just doesn't work at all.

Any advice or tips? I've pretty much given up at this point.

Oh and btw, I know the inherent limitations of the projector's HDMI chip and all that, and I understand that even if I get to reproduce HDR content, it may be too dark or just not that amazing, etc. Really all I want to do though is experience what HDR is ONCE in my life, even if it's a poor or partial version of it. So far I've only looked at pictures online which I know can't convey what it's all about.


----------



## ayrton

ehq said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I've looked through the posts in this thread for hours but couldn't find a solution to my problem, so I figured I'd ask:
> 
> I have my 5040ub hooked up to my PC directly via a high speed HDMI cable. My PC is running a Titan X Pascal. I can get 4k60fps just fine and it looks amazing, but I cannot get ANY kind of HDR signal from my PC.
> 
> I'm trying to play Mass Effect Andromeda or Resident Evil 7 in 1080p60fps with HDR, and I have the latest drivers, projector updated with the latest firmware and in theory it should just work, but I've tried everything, all color and resolution settings in the Nvidia Control Panel, and still it just doesn't work at all.
> 
> Any advice or tips? I've pretty much given up at this point.
> 
> Oh and btw, I know the inherent limitations of the projector's HDMI chip and all that, and I understand that even if I get to reproduce HDR content, it may be too dark or just not that amazing, etc. Really all I want to do though is experience what HDR is ONCE in my life, even if it's a poor or partial version of it. So far I've only looked at pictures online which I know can't convey what it's all about.


Not an expert, but I don't think 1080P is available with HDR?? I know from other posts that this PJ won't pass 4K60fps HDR because of bandwidth limitations. It will pass HDR at 24fps. There are charts on this thread of what this PJ will pass.

Hopefully someone smarter than I am will chime in..


----------



## Geraldius

darkangelism said:


> Well now I am curious about the Sony X800 and Xbox One S, I am close to pulling the trigger on a UB900 refurb from ebay for $450. The amount of savings is worth the risk I think, but if the X800 works I may wait for the UB400 to go to Canada and then have it imported.


I'm running a Sony X800 in my theater for all disk playing and 4K/HDR streaming. The X800 performs wonderfully with the 5040 in all respects. I have an XB1 and only use it for gaming and streaming HBO, which is not available on the X800. 3D on the X800 with the 5040 is excellent. Just watched Tron Legacy 3D and literally got 'chills' several times! (the excellent DTS HD Master 7.1 audio helped). Absolutely zero crosstalk, btw. 

One more thing. "Only a fool would buy an Xbox One S now", (Microsoft's own words). Dead-end product.


----------



## Geraldius

ayrton said:


> Not an expert, but I don't think 1080P is available with HDR?? I know from other posts that this PJ won't pass 4K60fps HDR because of bandwidth limitations. It will pass HDR at 24fps. There are charts on this thread of what this PJ will pass.
> 
> Hopefully someone smarter than I am will chime in..


HDR is not dependant on 4K. Some of the HDR content on Netflix is 1080p. You are correct about the bandwidth limitation of the 5040. If it gets a 60Hz 4K HDR signal it will pass the 4K but drops back to SDR. 24Hz 4K HDR passes through and plays well.


----------



## nukequazar

Geraldius said:


> 3D on the X800 with the 5040 is excellent. Just watched Tron Legacy 3D and literally got 'chills' several times! (the excellent DTS HD Master 7.1 audio helped). Absolutely zero crosstalk, btw.


I also have the X800 with my 5040. I tried 3D, and was thoroughly underwhelmed. I returned the glasses. Maybe they were not good.

What glasses are you using?


----------



## Geraldius

nukequazar said:


> I also have the X800 with my 5040. I tried 3D, and was thoroughly underwhelmed. I returned the glasses. Maybe they were not good.
> 
> What glasses are you using?


Using Panasonic glasses I got several years ago for my 60" ST50 plasma.
Glasses are model TY-ER3D4MU. Getting hard to find these now -- may be out of production.

I have seen crosstalk in a only few scenes of only 2 films out of about a dozen. Be sure to set the '3D brightness' setting to medium or low if you are getting crosstalk. You can compensate for the brightness loss by setting a brighter lamp mode.


----------



## nukequazar

Geraldius said:


> Using Panasonic glasses I got several years ago for my 60" ST50 plasma.


Interesting. Thanks. Probably better than the cheapos that I tried, although they were the best rated cheapos.


----------



## panman40

nukequazar said:


> Interesting. Thanks. Probably better than the cheapos that I tried, although they were the best rated cheapos.


I used to have those Panasonic glasses aswell, they were quite good and had a nice warm colour tone to the lenses. My favourite all round glasses are the Xpand X105.


----------



## Bob Sorel

I don't know where to post this, so I figured that I would start here, as I have been talking with people in this thread.

My friend bought a Sony X800 4k UHD player last week and it worked great while connected to an HDMI 2.0a HDCP 2.2 AVR (Pioneer SC 95) and then connected to a HDMI 1.4 1080p front projector (Epson 5030ub). The chain ran at 1080p and everything would have the proper handshakes necessary to make things work smoothly.

Then yesterday my friend replaced the Epson 5030 with an Epson 5040 - lucky guy! Now the X800 does not work and will not even show the home page as long as that projector is connected at the end of the chain. If we connect the X800 directly to the Epson 5040, bypassing the AVR, the X800 now works fine once again, though of course it is useless, as there is no way to get audio to the AVR, nor is there any other way to get other source components to the Epson 5040's HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2 input #1. 

Neither of us has any other 4K UHD sources, so we have no way of testing that HDMI2.0a and HDCP 2.2 are actually working in the AVR. I thought I would be able to solve this for him, but in trying to help I discovered just how little I know about 4k UHD...

Does anyone have a guess what could be the problem?


----------



## Dave Harper

panman40 said:


> @ Dave Harper,
> 
> 
> 
> Dave I know you may not have time but did you think anymore about a good custom gamma for 3D ?,
> 
> 
> 
> I use cinema 3D / medium lamp but I'm always swapping between gamma 0 and +1 depending on the film which is annoying.
> 
> 
> 
> I remember on my Sony hw65es there were several preset gammas including '10' which had amazing brightness and pop, I didn't use it but always had it reserved for when I suffered lamp dimming, I know it's possible to gain a brighter image with better pop by adjusting gamma so if you do come up with something that would be great!.


No, sorry. I really haven't spent a lot of time setting up and calibration 3D. I've only occasionally watched 3D, so I'm not sure if I'd be the authority to do that. 





nukequazar said:


> .......What glasses are you using?


Rose colored!

(Sorry, couldn't resist!  )




Bob Sorel said:


> I don't know where to post this, so I figured that I would start here, as I have been talking with people in this thread.
> 
> My friend bought a Sony X800 4k UHD player last week and it worked great while connected to an HDMI 2.0a HDCP 2.2 AVR (Pioneer SC 95) and then connected to a HDMI 1.4 1080p front projector (Epson 5030ub). The chain ran at 1080p and everything would have the proper handshakes necessary to make things work smoothly.
> 
> Then yesterday my friend replaced the Epson 5030 with an Epson 5040 - lucky guy! Now the X800 does not work and will not even show the home page as long as that projector is connected at the end of the chain. If we connect the X800 directly to the Epson 5040, bypassing the AVR, the X800 now works fine once again, though of course it is useless, as there is no way to get audio to the AVR, nor is there any other way to get other source components to the Epson 5040's HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2 input #1.
> 
> Neither of us has any other 4K UHD sources, so we have no way of testing that HDMI2.0a and HDCP 2.2 are actually working in the AVR. I thought I would be able to solve this for him, but in trying to help I discovered just how little I know about 4k UHD...
> 
> Does anyone have a guess what could be the problem?



Look into "Enhanced HDMI" settings in your Pioneer. I have one too and had to turn off the power, then hold down a button and the power button at the same time or something like that. That brought up a special menu where one selection allowed you to put the HDMI into Enhanced mode. This may allow it to pass properly to the 5040.


----------



## Raffy87

Rpmartinez said:


> Hey Raffy,
> I saw your post about not being able to IP control your epson 5040UB.
> Well I just purchased one and had the same issue and contacted an engineer I know at Simple control.
> And he told me to enable AMX discovery & Control4 SDDP which can be found under Menu > Network > Network Configuration > Others
> and also to make sure that in extended settings on the main menu page is has standby mode set to communication on.
> 
> I then added the epson to my simple control thru manual ip & port 4352
> and selected the Epson LS10000 option and bam that worked!
> It's very limited in that it only has power on/off & source selection but thats all I needed.
> 
> Hope that helps you out.


Thanks Rpmartinez,
haven't been able to get it working yet but now that I know it's possible, I'll keep trying.


----------



## Bob Sorel

> Look into "Enhanced HDMI" settings in your Pioneer. I have one too and had to turn off the power, then hold down a button and the power button at the same time or something like that. That brought up a special menu where one selection allowed you to put the HDMI into Enhanced mode. This may allow it to pass properly to the 5040.


Thanks, Dave!

We found that menu last night, but there was no "Enhanced HDMI" available there. The only thing we could do (in regard to HDMI) was toggle the HDMI inputs from 4:4:4 to 4:2:0 - neither setting worked.

But in reading the online manual this morning, I found a setting labeled "V. Conv" (Digital Video Converter), which says "Converts all video signals so they can be output from the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 terminals." - Once that setting is engaged, then I will probably be able to choose "pure" as the output resolution, rather than the default setting of "auto". Or I could just choose "4k/24p" as the output resolution, though I don't think that allowing the Pioneer to perform the conversion is really a good idea. Thoughts?

Thanks again!


----------



## Geraldius

Bob Sorel said:


> ...
> Then yesterday my friend replaced the Epson 5030 with an Epson 5040 - lucky guy! Now the X800 does not work and will not even show the home page as long as that projector is connected at the end of the chain. If we connect the X800 directly to the Epson 5040, bypassing the AVR, the X800 now works fine once again, though of course it is useless, as there is no way to get audio to the AVR, nor is there any other way to get other source components to the Epson 5040's HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2 ...
> 
> Does anyone have a guess what could be the problem?


The X800 has two HDMI outputs. He can connect HDMI1 directly to the 5040, and HDMI2 to the AVR. Set the X800 to output video on HDMI1 and audio on HDMI2. Doesn't explain why his AVR is not passing the video though.


----------



## Bob Sorel

> The X800 has two HDMI outputs. He can connect HDMI1 directly to the 5040, and HDMI2 to the AVR. Set the X800 to output video on HDMI1 and audio on HDMI2. Doesn't explain why his AVR is not passing the video though.


Yeah, that would be a workaround, but not a very good one. He could use HDMI 2 on the 5040, but if and when he gets a second 4k UHD source, he will be in trouble once again, as only HDMI 1 supports HDMI 2.0a/HDCP 2.2. 

Maybe someone in the Pioneer thread knows how to get this working properly (passing the signal through the AVR), but to be honest, this should work with default settings and not require going through this kind of grief. I was looking forward to seeing Dave's HarperVision in action!


----------



## Schuyler Bain

Has anyone built a hush box/housing cabinet for the 5040/6040? I'll be building one soon for mine. Would be interested in dimensions used and pics.


----------



## darkangelism

Geraldius said:


> I'm running a Sony X800 in my theater for all disk playing and 4K/HDR streaming. The X800 performs wonderfully with the 5040 in all respects. I have an XB1 and only use it for gaming and streaming HBO, which is not available on the X800. 3D on the X800 with the 5040 is excellent. Just watched Tron Legacy 3D and literally got 'chills' several times! (the excellent DTS HD Master 7.1 audio helped). Absolutely zero crosstalk, btw.
> 
> One more thing. "Only a fool would buy an Xbox One S now", (Microsoft's own words). Dead-end product.


Tron Legacy has one of the best showpiece soundtracks, I only have the 2D version though. It might not matter for now anyway, may be buying speakers instead, got offered a used set of HTD 3 for cheap and going to 7.1 from 2.1 is more important than going to UHD for now. 

My only reason for Xbox one S is that they are cheap used, Multiple listings on Craigslist here for $110-150 with games and two controllers.


----------



## zgraen3721

Motion handling on this projector is horrible. Movies with tons of fast motion are borderline unwatchable. Anything past low with Epson frame interpolation is riddled with artifacts! Disappointing!

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Bob Sorel said:


> Thanks, Dave!
> 
> We found that menu last night, but there was no "Enhanced HDMI" available there. The only thing we could do (in regard to HDMI) was toggle the HDMI inputs from 4:4:4 to 4:2:0 - neither setting worked.
> 
> But in reading the online manual this morning, I found a setting labeled "V. Conv" (Digital Video Converter), which says "Converts all video signals so they can be output from the HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 terminals." - Once that setting is engaged, then I will probably be able to choose "pure" as the output resolution, rather than the default setting of "auto". Or I could just choose "4k/24p" as the output resolution, though I don't think that allowing the Pioneer to perform the conversion is really a good idea. Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks again!



Yes that's the menu selection I was talking about. Sorry I was going by memory but I remembered it had something to do with it using a higher bandwidth for HDMI. It's the same as going to Enhanced mode on other equipment. The 4:4:4 setting is allowing full 18Gbps and is considered "Enhanced". 

I thought he's sending 4K to it already, so why would he need to convert the video anymore? I think that's for lower resolutions to scale to 4K. Maybe the 24p would lower the bandwidth enough to work but it would probably make 60p signals look like crap. 

Did you say you made sure it wasn't the cable? (The one from the player to the receiver)


----------



## Leon1972

So someone is saying on another thread that I shouldn't go with the 5040 because although i can control all lighting at night i will still have white walls. This will negate any benefit the 5040 will have over something such as say the ben q 2050 and the 5040 will be a waste of the extra money. I find this hard to believe so I wanted to ask those that actually own a 5040 if I'm wasting my money or not in my particular situation. FYI, I know i won't have the BEST image i can, i just find it hard to believe that my image will not still be vastly superior to something such as the BenQ 2050.

For those that don't know or remember heres my situation again. During the day there will be daylight. Not direct as i have a 8 to 10ft overhang directly out all my windows and we like the bright and sunny room for the kids. However though the sun is already going down by time we do 90% of our viewing. Anything during the day is just cartoons for the kids anyhow. Once they go to bed I have control over ALL light sources as we have no streetlights or anything like that through the windows and all lights can be turned off. The only negative effect we will have are our matte white walls to reflect projector light back onto the screen.


----------



## Leon1972

ALso, is there anything else that i need to be concerned about image wise for my receiver other than it is 4k Capable? I just bought my receiver a few months ago so i had future proofing in mind. One of the outputs and 2 or 3 of the inputs are 4k capable and it is Dolby Atmos compatable. Although I'm not THAT concerned about audio for now. Im happy with my 2.1 until I buy a house and can run all lines in wall. Tiny children hat like to run and wires on the floor are a no go. So is wires stapled to the wall or obviously ran through wire tracks according to my wife. lol. May go with in wall speakers too. It is the Onkyo TX-NR555. Nothing special, just not VERY bottom of the barrel. lol.


----------



## darkangelism

Leon1972 said:


> So someone is saying on another thread that I shouldn't go with the 5040 because although i can control all lighting at night i will still have white walls. This will negate any benefit the 5040 will have over something such as say the ben q 2050 and the 5040 will be a waste of the extra money. I find this hard to believe so I wanted to ask those that actually own a 5040 if I'm wasting my money or not in my particular situation. FYI, I know i won't have the BEST image i can, i just find it hard to believe that my image will not still be vastly superior to something such as the BenQ 2050.
> 
> For those that don't know or remember heres my situation again. During the day there will be daylight. Not direct as i have a 8 to 10ft overhang directly out all my windows and we like the bright and sunny room for the kids. However though the sun is already going down by time we do 90% of our viewing. Anything during the day is just cartoons for the kids anyhow. Once they go to bed I have control over ALL light sources as we have no streetlights or anything like that through the windows and all lights can be turned off. The only negative effect we will have are our matte white walls to reflect projector light back onto the screen.


I have light walls, it looks great still, dark walls or velvet may be better but I wouldn't say that it isn't worth getting just because you don't have a fully light controlled room. Also there are plenty of benefits to this projector beyond the handling of black.


----------



## Leon1972

darkangelism said:


> I have light walls, it looks great still, dark walls or velvet may be better but I wouldn't say that it isn't worth getting just because you don't have a fully light controlled room. Also there are plenty of benefits to this projector beyond the handling of black.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOBDF9FPLgk&t=573s



Thanks. I thought as much. I stated that i was done commenting on the thread because I felt like i was doing nothing but repeating myself anymore and he still went on to make several posts to try to prove his point. I felt like he was just trying to convince me he was right and I was wrong and an idiot for not blindly drinking his cool-aid. I should have known when his name is unretarted. lol.


----------



## Schuyler Bain

zgraen3721 said:


> Motion handling on this projector is horrible. Movies with tons of fast motion are borderline unwatchable. Anything past low with Epson frame interpolation is riddled with artifacts! Disappointing!
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


What are you using to watch the movies (disc player, HTPC)? Anyone else seeing frame rate/motion issue?


----------



## Bob Sorel

> Did you say you made sure it wasn't the cable? (The one from the player to the receiver)


Yup...I was there most of the afternoon today. We tried 6 different cables, no longer than about 3 feet (just for testing purposes), all active and rated for 18 gbps.

The only way we could get this to work was by sending HDMI 1 from the X800 directly to the 5040 HDMI 1 input (video only) and using a second cable to go from HDMI 2 on the X800 and sending it to one of the Pioneer's 3 HDMI 2.0a/HDCP 2.2 inputs (audio only). This is a workaround, but it it's the only way we could get both audio and video from the X800 into his system.

Tomorrow I will try calling Pioneer customer service, as I am now convinced that the Pioneer is simply not passing the combined audio/video. We will also order a few more cables just to make absolutely sure that the cables are not blocking the signal, but the fact that no signal whatsoever is getting through makes me believe that it is the fault of the Pioneer, not the cables. We will use the extra cables to create a more permanent workaround by sending the X800's video to HDMI 1 of the 5040 while sending the 1080p sources out through HDMI 1 of the Pioneer and into HDMI 2 of the 5040. Although this is more cumbersome than the way it SHOULD work, it will at least get the job done until the day that my friend buys a second 4k UHD source.

Unless, of course, someone has information on a low cost but high quality HDMI 2.0a/HDCP 2.2 auto switcher.

Oh, and by the way, I set up HarperVision as a memory for him and it looks fantastic! It may need some minor tweaking, so I told my friend he would need to invite me over to his place to watch a few HDR movies...


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> No, sorry. I really haven't spent a lot of time setting up and calibration 3D. I've only occasionally watched 3D, so I'm not sure if I'd be the authority to do that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rose colored!
> 
> (Sorry, couldn't resist!  )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look into "Enhanced HDMI" settings in your Pioneer. I have one too and had to turn off the power, then hold down a button and the power button at the same time or something like that. That brought up a special menu where one selection allowed you to put the HDMI into Enhanced mode. This may allow it to pass properly to the 5040.


No problem. No point in messing with 3D if you've no interest in it.


----------



## zgraen3721

Schuyler Bain said:


> What are you using to watch the movies (disc player, HTPC)? Anyone else seeing frame rate/motion issue?


Using an OPPO 203. Love the projector though. Doesn't really matter the source for me. I still watch laserdiscs on this beast. Have to have FI on low to make it bearable. Other than the motion issue, I love the brightness and sharpness on this pj. Had an 8700ub for years and never remember the motion blur being an issue. Now even my wife makes mention of it.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

I am close to ordering new hdmi cables because my current cables might not be handling 4k perfectly. I wanted to get the monoprice Cabernet. Pricing is weird. I need about 21' of cable. I was going to get 25' but it so quite pricey. But the 30' is a lot cheaper. Wow! Wonder if it will make a big difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Bob Sorel said:


> Yup...I was there most of the afternoon today. We tried 6 different cables, no longer than about 3 feet (just for testing purposes), all active and rated for 18 gbps.
> 
> The only way we could get this to work was by sending HDMI 1 from the X800 directly to the 5040 HDMI 1 input (video only) and using a second cable to go from HDMI 2 on the X800 and sending it to one of the Pioneer's 3 HDMI 2.0a/HDCP 2.2 inputs (audio only). This is a workaround, but it it's the only way we could get both audio and video from the X800 into his system.
> 
> Tomorrow I will try calling Pioneer customer service, as I am now convinced that the Pioneer is simply not passing the combined audio/video. We will also order a few more cables just to make absolutely sure that the cables are not blocking the signal, but the fact that no signal whatsoever is getting through makes me believe that it is the fault of the Pioneer, not the cables. We will use the extra cables to create a more permanent workaround by sending the X800's video to HDMI 1 of the 5040 while sending the 1080p sources out through HDMI 1 of the Pioneer and into HDMI 2 of the 5040. Although this is more cumbersome than the way it SHOULD work, it will at least get the job done until the day that my friend buys a second 4k UHD source.
> 
> Unless, of course, someone has information on a low cost but high quality HDMI 2.0a/HDCP 2.2 auto switcher.
> 
> Oh, and by the way, I set up HarperVision as a memory for him and it looks fantastic! It may need some minor tweaking, so I told my friend he would need to invite me over to his place to watch a few HDR movies...



Yes I agree that it sounds like it's an issue with the Pioneer now. I wouldn't go through all that trouble to do workarounds yet until you've checked into warranty work, repair or replacement. 

I'm glad you liked the HarperVision settings Bob! Please be sure to report back any further tweaks you've done to it. It's a work in progress and it will just help everyone else in the future to have as many options and opinions as possible to work in their system. I know Florian @Soulnight has some extra tweaks and then there's @Oledurt's awesome Bright Cinema settings and custom gamma too, so the more the merrier! 




panman40 said:


> No problem. No point in messing with 3D if you've no interest in it.



I wouldn't say I have no interest in it, but I don't watch a ton either. I am deeply into UHD HDR WCG now, so my efforts have been almost 100% in that now. When I watch HD or 3D now, it's old hat and simply for pleasure. When I watch critically now it's always in HDR. 

HD and 3D critical viewing is so 2007! 

(Please note: For those that love those formats, which I do too, I was totally joking and saying that tongue in cheek, before you roast my balls over a bonfire!  )



bommai said:


> I am close to ordering new hdmi cables because my current cables might not be handling 4k perfectly. I wanted to get the monoprice Cabernet. Pricing is weird. I need about 21' of cable. I was going to get 25' but it so quite pricey. But the 30' is a lot cheaper. Wow! Wonder if it will make a big difference.



Be careful and read the fine print with all those cables. Some of the longer ones are more inexpensive because they can't pass the higher frequencies and the shorter ones can, so they're rated higher and thus cost more. I almost bought one and luckily stumbled on very small fine print that said as much myself so I cancelled the order!


----------



## James Mayer

Hey guys, Ive seen you talk about different blue-ray players, hdmi cables and 3d glasses that work well with this projector. 


Can we get a solid list of what everyone prefers?


Ive been trying to keep up with this thread but its very long.


Thanks in advance!


----------



## inspector

James Mayer said:


> Hey guys, Ive seen you talk about different blue-ray players, hdmi cables and 3d glasses that work well with this projector.
> 
> 
> Can we get a solid list of what everyone prefers?
> 
> 
> Ive been trying to keep up with this thread but its very long.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Cable:


Monoprice directional Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed...mine is 40' and works PERFECT = $25


Player:


Samsung K8500
Oppo 203
Phillips 7501
Panasonic 900


Glasses:


Epson from Amazon ($82) vs Epson ($99)
There are others, personally I can say that the Epson's work.


You don't need to upgrade your receiver. Run you HDMI 2.0 to your player (as the pass thru)then a 1.4 to your receiver and you'll get 4K, 3D and what ever sound you have.


Good luck!


----------



## James Mayer

Thanks a bunch!! Now where is my credit card.. hahah


----------



## Leon1972

So I've been reading a LOT of the posts on adjusting the settings. I am just confounded by the level of detail you can go into when adjusting settings. Where can i start with beginning to understand all this? I would have adjusted the settings on my current projector but I don't feel it would be worth it as cheap as it is. lol.


----------



## darkangelism

Leon1972 said:


> So I've been reading a LOT of the posts on adjusting the settings. I am just confounded by the level of detail you can go into when adjusting settings. Where can i start with beginning to understand all this? I would have adjusted the settings on my current projector but I don't feel it would be worth it as cheap as it is. lol.


A calibration disc is a start, borrowing settings from others is next but really paying a professional is going to provide the best image for your specific projector in your environment.


----------



## Leon1972

darkangelism said:


> A calibration disc is a start, borrowing settings from others is next but really paying a professional is going to provide the best image for your specific projector in your environment.




Yeah. I know optimal settings can change from one environment to the next. Being military and as frequently as I move paying someone until retire isn't in the cards. Lol. 

What disc would you recommend? I know there are a lot out there


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## darkangelism

Leon1972 said:


> Yeah. I know optimal settings can change from one environment to the next. Being military and as frequently as I move paying someone until retire isn't in the cards. Lol.
> 
> What disc would you recommend? I know there are a lot out there
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I haven't used any yet, so I am not the best guy to ask.


----------



## Leon1972

What is your guys takes on colorimeters for projectors?

Are they worth it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ronin1000

*4K/HDR Streaming on Panny UB900?*

Is anyone successfully streaming 4k and/or HDR through Netflix or Amazon with the Panasonic UB900? 

I am not getting a 4K or HDR signal from either Amazon or Netflix when streaming through the Panny. The 4K/HDR discs work perfectly and bluray discs are pretty phenomenal as well. I'm within the 30 day return period so I'm just trying to figure out if it is an issue with just my unit or a general issue. 

The Panny is connected to the 5040 with a 35 foot MediaBridge HDMI Cable (HDMI Imput 1). I''m using the analog out to an Emotiva UMC 100. Since 4K and HDR disks are playing perfectly, the cable is not an issue. Also the Panny is connected directly to a cat 6 Ethernet cable to our router getting greater than 25mbps


----------



## Valleyboy

zgraen3721 said:


> Motion handling on this projector is horrible. Movies with tons of fast motion are borderline unwatchable. Anything past low with Epson frame interpolation is riddled with artifacts! Disappointing!
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


I've had this projector for 6 months now and have had no problem with motion, and I watch a lot of action movies.


----------



## Valleyboy

Leon1972 said:


> So someone is saying on another thread that I shouldn't go with the 5040 because although i can control all lighting at night i will still have white walls. This will negate any benefit the 5040 will have over something such as say the ben q 2050 and the 5040 will be a waste of the extra money. I find this hard to believe so I wanted to ask those that actually own a 5040 if I'm wasting my money or not in my particular situation. FYI, I know i won't have the BEST image i can, i just find it hard to believe that my image will not still be vastly superior to something such as the BenQ 2050.
> 
> For those that don't know or remember heres my situation again. During the day there will be daylight. Not direct as i have a 8 to 10ft overhang directly out all my windows and we like the bright and sunny room for the kids. However though the sun is already going down by time we do 90% of our viewing. Anything during the day is just cartoons for the kids anyhow. Once they go to bed I have control over ALL light sources as we have no streetlights or anything like that through the windows and all lights can be turned off. The only negative effect we will have are our matte white walls to reflect projector light back onto the screen.


I have all white walls (I'm in a short term rental) and the picture is fantastic.


----------



## Craig Peer

Valleyboy said:


> I have all white walls (I'm in a short term rental) and the picture is fantastic.


An " imperfect " home theater is still 100% better than no home theater !


----------



## Dave Harper

ronin1000 said:


> Is anyone successfully streaming 4k and/or HDR through Netflix or Amazon with the Panasonic UB900?
> 
> 
> 
> I am not getting a 4K or HDR signal from either Amazon or Netflix when streaming through the Panny. The 4K/HDR discs work perfectly and bluray discs are pretty phenomenal as well. I'm within the 30 day return period so I'm just trying to figure out if it is an issue with just my unit or a general issue.
> 
> 
> 
> The Panny is connected to the 5040 with a 35 foot MediaBridge HDMI Cable (HDMI Imput 1). I''m using the analog out to an Emotiva UMC 100. Since 4K and HDR disks are playing perfectly, the cable is not an issue. Also the Panny is connected directly to a cat 6 Ethernet cable to our router getting greater than 25mbps



It's probably due to those streaming services on the UB900 sending it in 60p, which is too much for the 5040 to handle. UHD Blurays are usually sent in 24p, with the exception of Billy Lynn BR, so the bandwidth is small enough to be usable on the 5040's limited 10.2Gbps hdmi input. So it's more than likely a limitation of your projector, not the player. The UB900 is probably the best UHD BR player to use on it actually. It could still be your cable too, with the same limitation of only being able to send 24p max (probably 30p actually and at about 11Gbps or so) before it craps out. What's the exact cable you're using? Is it rated for 18Gbps?


----------



## Leon1972

Dave Harper said:


> It's probably due to those streaming services on the UB900 sending it in 60p, which is too much for the 5040 to handle. UHD Blurays are usually sent in 24p, with the exception of Billy Lynn BR, so the bandwidth is small enough to be usable on the 5040's limited 10.2Gbps hdmi input. So it's more than likely a limitation of your projector, not the player. The UB900 is probably the best UHD BR player to use on it actually. It could still be your cable too, with the same limitation of only being able to send 24p max (probably 30p actually and at about 11Gbps or so) before it craps out. What's the exact cable you're using? Is it rated for 18Gbps?


Not to jump all over his question, but does this mean some services just won't play on the projector? how would you rectify this? I plan on most of my 4k content being streaming services until i get a player.


----------



## Leon1972

So i received my screen samples today. YAY!!!! I got the Elite Screens samples. Gotta say, wasn't too impressed. I think it may have been sharper, but it looked worse. lol. My projector is only 720P so i wasn't expecting much, but i was expecting SOMETHING. It looked worse because it was VERY pixelated, which I already knew about my projector anyways. Am i correct when I assume that the crappiness of my projector is why i don't really notice a difference? I didn't plan on getting a screen until i got the 5040 and ran the samples on that anyways since the same screen will react differently with different projectors. I was just curious how it would look on this one.


----------



## ronin1000

Dave Harper said:


> It's probably due to those streaming services on the UB900 sending it in 60p, which is too much for the 5040 to handle. UHD Blurays are usually sent in 24p, with the exception of Billy Lynn BR, so the bandwidth is small enough to be usable on the 5040's limited 10.2Gbps hdmi input. So it's more than likely a limitation of your projector, not the player. The UB900 is probably the best UHD BR player to use on it actually. It could still be your cable too, with the same limitation of only being able to send 24p max (probably 30p actually and at about 11Gbps or so) before it craps out. What's the exact cable you're using? Is it rated for 18Gbps?


The cable is a Mediabridge Ultra rated at 18 gbps. I also ran a Monoprice Cabernet Active for redundancy, so I will try switching cables to see if that changes anything.

Dave, if what your saying is right about the bandwidth limitation, does that mean that there can be no 4K streaming from any source? I thought I read in this thread that people were getting 4k Netflix streaming with the Samsung player and the Nvidia Shield? There is a ton of 4k content on Netflix and Amazon that I would really like to check out on the 5040. 

Thanks for your insight


----------



## Geraldius

Leon1972 said:


> Not to jump all over his question, but does this mean some services just won't play on the projector? how would you rectify this? I plan on most of my 4k content being streaming services until i get a player.


Netflix streams 4K HDR just fine to the 5040 at 24Hz with the Sony UBPX800 disk player. So it's not the service's problem. A majority of the 4K Youtube content on the other hand is 60Hz, which causes the 5040 to drop back to 1080p. It still plays though.


----------



## jwhn

I have now tried the Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic and they can all stream Netflix in HDR. But not Amazon. The key is to set the 24p setting to 'Auto'. I just returned the Panasonic and am keeping the Sony because I can detect zero difference in picture quality. The Panasonic has the slider to increase brightness in HDR but I don't see that benefit being worth more than double the price. In case this helps anyone...having tried all 3 of these players.


----------



## Leon1972

Geraldius said:


> Netflix streams 4K HDR just fine to the 5040 at 24Hz with the Sony UBPX800 disk player. So it's not the service's problem. A majority of the 4K Youtube content on the other hand is 60Hz, which causes the 5040 to drop back to 1080p. It still plays though.




So basically I need to make sure whatever is playing the 4K content isn't capable of playing it above 24hz?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Leon1972 said:


> So basically I need to make sure whatever is playing the 4K content isn't capable of playing it above 24hz?


There are ways to convert to 24p if you get the HDFury, as far as I understand.

You also need a streaming device that will support HDR in 24p with the services you want to use. FireTV or XBox, for example, won't work even with Netflix because they don't support it.


----------



## ronin1000

jwhn said:


> I have now tried the Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic and they can all stream Netflix in HDR. But not Amazon. The key is to set the 24p setting to 'Auto'. I just returned the Panasonic and am keeping the Sony because I can detect zero difference in picture quality. The Panasonic has the slider to increase brightness in HDR but I don't see that benefit being worth more than double the price. In case this helps anyone...having tried all 3 of these players.


Can you remember a specific show you were able to stream in HDR from Netflix on the Panny? I'd like to try it out to see if I can get Netflix HDR going on my setup.

IMHO the slider on the Panny really makes HDR shine. When the slider is set to 0, the HDR image is too dim for my taste. At about 3-8 HDR looks awesome. How do you compensate for the HDR dimmness on the Sony? Harpervision?


----------



## ronin1000

ronin1000 said:


> The cable is a Mediabridge Ultra rated at 18 gbps. I also ran a Monoprice Cabernet Active for redundancy, so I will try switching cables to see if that changes anything.


Ok I swapped cables and still no UHD or HDR on Amazon or Netflix streaming from the Panny


----------



## jwhn

ronin1000 said:


> Can you remember a specific show you were able to stream in HDR from Netflix on the Panny? I'd like to try it out to see if I can get Netflix HDR going on my setup.
> 
> IMHO the slider on the Panny really makes HDR shine. When the slider is set to 0, the HDR image is too dim for my taste. At about 3-8 HDR looks awesome. How do you compensate for the HDR dimmness on the Sony? Harpervision?


Marco Polo on Netflix is HDR.

Yes, I use HarperVision with lamp on high setting. In the end I've found that it's not too loud.
And Dave recently wrote that he recommends not using the slider for his settings.


----------



## jwhn

ronin1000 said:


> Ok I swapped cables and still no UHD or HDR on Amazon or Netflix streaming from the Panny


Make sure you set 24p on Auto on the Panny.


----------



## panman40

So using bright cinema with the Harpervision gamma what white level/clipping have people set ?,
I notice to get near 1000 nits clipping with superwhite OFF my contrast needs to be way down at 25. With superwhite ON its 42.


----------



## panman40

Have you guys ever thought about contacting Epson or trying to get a friendly petition together for what would be a really useful feature, it would be great if the Epson recognised a 4k signal and automatically swapped picture mode /settings to the chosen uhd ones, just like it does when you pop on a 3D disc.

I'm in the UK but I'm thinking the more emails sent the more chance of a f/w update for it, I'm sure it can easily be done.

Do Epson have a kind of worldwide Facebook page or something?.


----------



## Mr.G

ronin1000 said:


> Ok I swapped cables and still no UHD or HDR on Amazon or Netflix streaming from the Panny


Cables that work for some may not work for others. Every setup is different. 

The whole 4K capable cable debacle is talked about in several threads here:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hdmi-q-one-connector-world/


----------



## Leon1972

Craig Peer said:


> An " imperfect " home theater is still 100% better than no home theater !



AGREED!!!


----------



## Leon1972

ronin1000 said:


> Ok I swapped cables and still no UHD or HDR on Amazon or Netflix streaming from the Panny



Be VERY mindful of your run too. While I don't have a 4K capable projector yet I am reading EVERYTHING I can get my hands on. Your cable can work flawlessly but if it is too close to other cables that can affect it cause it to come out. Sounds like the longer runs are fickle to the point that a simple sag in the cable bringing it closer to EMI causing cables and wires can cause a problem.


----------



## Leon1972

Mr.G said:


> Cables that work for some may not work for others. Every setup is different.
> 
> The whole 4K capable cable debacle is talked about in several threads here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hdmi-q-one-connector-world/



Ive been looking for something like this! PERFECT! Thanks for the link! Bookmarked for when I need one


----------



## ronin1000

Mr.G said:


> Cables that work for some may not work for others. Every setup is different.
> 
> The whole 4K capable cable debacle is talked about in several threads here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hdmi-q-one-connector-world/


Thanks for the link. I was just trying to isolate one variable at a time in an attempt to solve the issue. In this case it appears that the hdmi cable is not the culprit.


----------



## ronin1000

*4K UHD and HDR Netflix/Amazon Streaming*

Thanks to Dave and Jwhn for pointing me in the right direction. After setting the HDMI output on the Panny 900 to 4K @ 60 hz. I am able to stream Netflix 4K and Amazon 4K. However I only get 8 bit 4:2:0 Bt 709 SDR. 

As Dave mentioned, it seems like the bandwidth of the 5040 restricts 4K @ 60 hz and HDR from streaming. I wonder if there is a way to get stream HDR with 1080p?

Jwhn, I will give Marco Polo a shot. So far titles like Iron Fist and 13 ways, come through in 4K UHD but not HDR.


----------



## Slodojo

Leon1972 said:


> So someone is saying on another thread that I shouldn't go with the 5040 because although i can control all lighting at night i will still have white walls. This will negate any benefit the 5040 will have over something such as say the ben q 2050 and the 5040 will be a waste of the extra money. I find this hard to believe so I wanted to ask those that actually own a 5040 if I'm wasting my money or not in my particular situation. FYI, I know i won't have the BEST image i can, i just find it hard to believe that my image will not still be vastly superior to something such as the BenQ 2050.


I kind of disagree with this. In dark scenes, there is not much light to reflect off the walls. You want the screen to be as black as possible and the black levels of the projector are what matters. Sure, when bright things come on screen, there will be light reflecting and the black won't seem as black, but there are bright things on the screen and the contrast is such that th absolute black levels don't matter as much. I think the black levels of the projector are very important no matter what kind of screen or walls you have.


----------



## Craig Peer

Slodojo said:


> I kind of disagree with this. In dark scenes, there is not much light to reflect off the walls. You want the screen to be as black as possible and the black levels of the projector are what matters. Sure, when bright things come on screen, there will be light reflecting and the black won't seem as black, but there are bright things on the screen and the contrast is such that th absolute black levels don't matter as much. I think the black levels of the projector are very important no matter what kind of screen or walls you have.


And the better the projector you have, the more incentive you have to make your less than perfect room better. 

Before - 










After -


----------



## Slodojo

Craig Peer said:


> Slodojo said:
> 
> 
> 
> I kind of disagree with this. In dark scenes, there is not much light to reflect off the walls. You want the screen to be as black as possible and the black levels of the projector are what matters. Sure, when bright things come on screen, there will be light reflecting and the black won't seem as black, but there are bright things on the screen and the contrast is such that th absolute black levels don't matter as much. I think the black levels of the projector are very important no matter what kind of screen or walls you have.
> 
> 
> 
> And the better the projector you have, the more incentive you have to make your less than perfect room better.
> 
> Before -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After -
Click to expand...

That set up looks awesome. Is that the center channel mounted the on the soffit (?) above? How big is that screen?


----------



## Craig Peer

Slodojo said:


> That set up looks awesome. Is that the center channel mounted the on the soffit (?) above? How big is that screen?


Yes - the center channel is a Martin Logan SLM XL speaker. Works great with my Motion 40 mains etc. The screen is a Stewart StudioTek 130 - 128" diagonal ( 118" wide ) 2.35:1. Sitting 10' away currently! This is my " end game / dream theater " !


----------



## Dave Harper

Leon1972 said:


> Not to jump all over his question, but does this mean some services just won't play on the projector? how would you rectify this? I plan on most of my 4k content being streaming services until i get a player.





ronin1000 said:


> The cable is a Mediabridge Ultra rated at 18 gbps. I also ran a Monoprice Cabernet Active for redundancy, so I will try switching cables to see if that changes anything.
> 
> Dave, if what your saying is right about the bandwidth limitation, does that mean that there can be no 4K streaming from any source? I thought I read in this thread that people were getting 4k Netflix streaming with the Samsung player and the Nvidia Shield? There is a ton of 4k content on Netflix and Amazon that I would really like to check out on the 5040.
> 
> Thanks for your insight


You can do 4K HDR Streaming on the 5040, but you just have to make sure it's within the 10.2 Gbps HDMI limitation of it. That means that you need to send no more than about a 4K30p 4:2:2 10 bit signal max. The nVidia Shield I believe sounds like the best streamer for this projector since it has a mode to send 24p. Most other streamers can't do this, but there is a report here I see that the UB900 can do it too for NetFlix. I haven't tried it yet though. I use a Roku Premiere+ and FireTV boxes mostly.




panman40 said:


> *So using bright cinema with the Harpervision gamma* what white level/clipping have people set ?,
> I notice to get near 1000 nits clipping with superwhite OFF my contrast needs to be way down at 25. With superwhite ON its 42.


Which gamma are you talking about in Bright Cinema? The best one to use and that most refer to as "HarperVision" is the one where you use Digital Cinema to preserve the BT2020/DCI-P3 wide color gamut filter. I did post a custom gamma for BC, but that was before the HDR on SDR HarperVision settings that I discovered later and I believe, which is MUCH better!

On a side note, check out the LS10000 for an update by me with HarperVision on that laser phosphor projector. I am simply stunned and in awe of what that thing can do with HarperVision installed!!! 




Leon1972 said:


> Be VERY mindful of your run too. While I don't have a 4K capable projector yet I am reading EVERYTHING I can get my hands on. Your cable can work flawlessly but if it is too close to other cables that can affect it cause it to come out. Sounds like the longer runs are fickle to the point that a simple sag in the cable bringing it closer to EMI causing cables and wires can cause a problem.


Yes, I have personally seen and experienced what EMP can do to an electronic signal and component. In fact, when I was in the Air Force and Air National Guard, we tested a type of "EMP Weapon" that literally could be pointed at the target and shut down it's entire electrical and electronics systems! I stood there on an aircraft carrier in their radar room and watched it completely flatline their entire systems! The seamen working their posts were dumbfounded and had no idea what was happening!


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> You can do 4K HDR Streaming on the 5040, but you just have to make sure it's within the 10.2 Gbps HDMI limitation of it. That means that you need to send no more than about a 4K30p 4:2:2 10 bit signal max. The nVidia Shield I believe sounds like the best streamer for this projector since it has a mode to send 24p. Most other streamers can't do this, but there is a report here I see that the UB900 can do it too for NetFlix. I haven't tried it yet though. I use a Roku Premiere+ and FireTV boxes mostly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which gamma are you talking about in Bright Cinema? The best one to use and that most refer to as "HarperVision" is the one where you use Digital Cinema to preserve the BT2020/DCI-P3 wide color gamut filter. I did post a custom gamma for BC, but that was before the HDR on SDR HarperVision settings that I discovered later and I believe, which is MUCH better!
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note, check out the LS10000 for an update by me with HarperVision on that laser phosphor projector. I am simply stunned and in awe of what that thing can do with HarperVision installed!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I have personally seen and experienced what EMP can do to an electronic signal and component. In fact, when I was in the Air Force and Air National Guard, we tested a type of "EMP Weapon" that literally could be pointed at the target and shut down it's entire electrical and electronics systems! I stood there on an aircraft carrier in their radar room and watched it completely flatline their entire systems! The seamen working their posts were dumbfounded and had no idea what was happening!




Dave, can you get 4K HDR using Netflix on your Roku Premier+? I was able to the first couple of weeks after I bought the Roku but ever since I haven't been able to. I've tried just about everything. I can get HDR on Amazon but not Netflix. So doesn't seem to be the bandwidth limitation on the 5040 using the Roku, which is what it sounds like you were eluding to in your post. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> The best one to use and that most refer to as "HarperVision" is the one where you use Digital Cinema to preserve the BT2020/DCI-P3 wide color gamut filter.


Dave - quick question. It's not 100% clear when following your signature link which Gamma settings are the official HarperVision settings. You posted some screen shots but then later in the thread there is some discussion of some alternate settings.

Might be worthwhile to post the "official" HarperVision settings (especially the Gamma) just to make sure people can access the right ones. Gracias...


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> You can do 4K HDR Streaming on the 5040, but you just have to make sure it's within the 10.2 Gbps HDMI limitation of it. That means that you need to send no more than about a 4K30p 4:2:2 10 bit signal max. The nVidia Shield I believe sounds like the best streamer for this projector since it has a mode to send 24p. Most other streamers can't do this, but there is a report here I see that the UB900 can do it too for NetFlix. I haven't tried it yet though. I use a Roku Premiere+ and FireTV boxes mostly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which gamma are you talking about in Bright Cinema? The best one to use and that most refer to as "HarperVision" is the one where you use Digital Cinema to preserve the BT2020/DCI-P3 wide color gamut filter. I did post a custom gamma for BC, but that was before the HDR on SDR HarperVision settings that I discovered later and I believe, which is MUCH better!
> 
> On a side note, check out the LS10000 for an update by me with HarperVision on that laser phosphor projector. I am simply stunned and in awe of what that thing can do with HarperVision installed!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I have personally seen and experienced what EMP can do to an electronic signal and component. In fact, when I was in the Air Force and Air National Guard, we tested a type of "EMP Weapon" that literally could be pointed at the target and shut down it's entire electrical and electronics systems! I stood there on an aircraft carrier in their radar room and watched it completely flatline their entire systems! The seamen working their posts were dumbfounded and had no idea what was happening!



Your harpervision gamma for bright cinema ?, the one that's similar to oledurts. I have to be honest I don't see the better WCG in digital cinema mode with your HDR to SDR gamma and I have colour at 80 for that. It's difficult comparing back to back as you have to not only change memory's but go in and set HDR 1 to SDR which prolongs the comparison but I've always felt even before you posted the harpervision gammas that bright cinema cannot be far off WCG even without the P3 filter.

Have you actually measured both to check ?, I remember oledurts calibrator saying that bright cinema did actually cover WCG ?.

The ls1000 sounds great!, will have to have a look see but it's way out of my price range!.


----------



## HakaShi

*Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours*

Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours.




Hello



I have the same problem now and i want to know what u do to fix this problem, I read that you updated the projector and u said eveything is working fine can i know please are u still having the same problem again or it have been fixed after the update and no more error,or did u exchange the projector or is still the same one u have with that error let me know what i have to do please. 
FYI my main Ver105 Video2 is 104

and about the exchange if u exchange it do they send u a new one first, what they ask fit.

and sorry for my english.

ty


----------



## HakaShi

HakaShi said:


> Ef. Seriously? Less than 100 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same problem now and i want to know what u do to fix this problem, I read that you updated the projector and u said eveything is working fine can i know please are u still having the same problem again or it have been fixed after the update and no more error,or did u exchange the projector or is still the same one u have with that error let me know what i have to do please.
> FYI my main Ver105 Video2 is 104
> 
> and about the exchange if u exchange it do they send u a new one first, what they ask fit.
> 
> and sorry for my english.
> 
> ty


Sorry guys new here ty


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> Dave - quick question. It's not 100% clear when following your signature link which Gamma settings are the official HarperVision settings. You posted some screen shots but then later in the thread there is some discussion of some alternate settings.
> 
> 
> 
> Might be worthwhile to post the "official" HarperVision settings (especially the Gamma) just to make sure people can access the right ones. Gracias...


Awesome idea, thanks! I'll probably just make a new post with all the updated settings and then add the link to the old post and update the link below my signature. Would that work?





spirithockey79 said:


> Dave, can you get 4K HDR using Netflix on your Roku Premier+? I was able to the first couple of weeks after I bought the Roku but ever since I haven't been able to. I've tried just about everything. I can get HDR on Amazon but not Netflix.
> 
> So doesn't seem to be the bandwidth limitation on the 5040 using the Roku, which is what it sounds like you were eluding to in your post.


No, I don't believe I've gotten that from the Roku P+. The bandwidth is still a limitation in the projector of the streaming source, be it a Roku or whatever, only sends 4K60p 4:2:2 10 Bit HDR. If you're getting 60p then it's most likely 8 bit rec709 and probably SDR. 





panman40 said:


> Your harpervision gamma for bright cinema ?, the one that's similar to oledurts. I have to be honest I don't see the better WCG in digital cinema mode with your HDR to SDR gamma and I have colour at 80 for that. It's difficult comparing back to back as you have to not only change memory's but go in and set HDR 1 to SDR which prolongs the comparison but I've always felt even before you posted the harpervision gammas that bright cinema cannot be far off WCG even without the P3 filter.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you actually measured both to check ?, I remember oledurts calibrator saying that bright cinema did actually cover WCG ?.
> 
> 
> 
> The ls1000 sounds great!, will have to have a look see but it's way out of my price range!.



Yes that's probably true initially, but since then, and especially with the LS10000, you need to also boost up the CMS to get those colors back and give you that "Oooomph" that just takes the image to a whole new level! That's what just happened to me last night when messing with the LS10K. I did everything but CMS and was like "that's pretty nice, but something is missing". I then proceeded to just boost red an green initially and the picture just came
alive!!! 

I measured oledurt's gamut back then and no, it wasn't full P3 or too close except for blue iirc. I'm not sure what his calibrator was doing. Maybe he knows a trick? You have to be careful though because just stretching the points from 709 to P3 will make it look cartoony. The actual color gamut of native P3 or inside a rec2020 container has to be there for it to look correct and natural. That's actually what helped spurn me on to try what eventually was HarperVision, to use digital cinema to maintain P3 filters and also keep the good brightness and mid level tones on projectors, which standards makers seemed to have forgotten. 

You can get an LS10000 B-Stock from AVS for a little less than MSRP of the 6040, so an amazing deal!!! Mine which is tricked out now, or a new A-Stock isn't really that much more either.


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> Awesome idea, thanks! I'll probably just make a new post with all the updated settings and then add the link to the old post and update the link below my signature. Would that work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, I don't believe I've gotten that from the Roku P+. The bandwidth is still a limitation in the projector of the streaming source, be it a Roku or whatever, only sends 4K60p 4:2:2 10 Bit HDR. If you're getting 60p then it's most likely 8 bit rec709 and probably SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that's probably true initially, but since then, and especially with the LS10000, you need to also boost up the CMS to get those colors back and give you that "Oooomph" that just takes the image to a whole new level! That's what just happened to me last night when messing with the LS10K. I did everything but CMS and was like "that's pretty nice, but something is missing". I then proceeded to just boost red an green initially and the picture just came
> alive!!!
> 
> I measured oledurt's gamut back then and no, it wasn't full P3 or too close except for blue iirc. I'm not sure what his calibrator was doing. Maybe he knows a trick? You have to be careful though because just stretching the points from 709 to P3 will make it look cartoony. The actual color gamut of native P3 or inside a rec2020 container has to be there for it to look correct and natural. That's actually what helped spurn me on to try what eventually was HarperVision, to use digital cinema to maintain P3 filters and also keep the good brightness and mid level tones on projectors, which standards makers seemed to have forgotten.
> 
> You can get an LS10000 B-Stock from AVS for a little less than MSRP of the 6040, so an amazing deal!!! Mine which is tricked out now, or a new A-Stock isn't really that much more either.


I'm in the UK Dave, thanks for clarifying what you found!. I thought it odd that bright cinema should reach P3 but now know it doesnt. it does look pretty good though.

So are you still recommending digital cinema with your HDR to SDR harpervision and did you have time to refine it in any way recently ?.
Cheers


----------



## Lesmor

Hi @Dave Harper
Just a vote of thanks for your patience and your settings
Looking forward to seeing them in a different format so I don't get confused
There are not many who will entertain comments and suggestions with such grace 

Andy


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> Awesome idea, thanks! I'll probably just make a new post with all the updated settings and then add the link to the old post and update the link below my signature. Would that work?


Yes, that would be perfect!


----------



## inspector

Dave Harper said:


> Awesome idea, thanks! I'll probably just make a new post with all the updated settings and then add the link to the old post and update the link below my signature. Would that work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, I don't believe I've gotten that from the Roku P+. The bandwidth is still a limitation in the projector of the streaming source, be it a Roku or whatever, only sends 4K60p 4:2:2 10 Bit HDR. If you're getting 60p then it's most likely 8 bit rec709 and probably SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that's probably true initially, but since then, and especially with the LS10000, you need to also boost up the CMS to get those colors back and give you that "Oooomph" that just takes the image to a whole new level! That's what just happened to me last night when messing with the LS10K. I did everything but CMS and was like "that's pretty nice, but something is missing". I then proceeded to just boost red an green initially and the picture just came
> alive!!!
> 
> I measured oledurt's gamut back then and no, it wasn't full P3 or too close except for blue iirc. I'm not sure what his calibrator was doing. Maybe he knows a trick? You have to be careful though because just stretching the points from 709 to P3 will make it look cartoony. The actual color gamut of native P3 or inside a rec2020 container has to be there for it to look correct and natural. That's actually what helped spurn me on to try what eventually was HarperVision, to use digital cinema to maintain P3 filters and also keep the good brightness and mid level tones on projectors, which standards makers seemed to have forgotten.
> 
> You can get an LS10000 B-Stock from AVS for a little less than MSRP of the 6040, so an amazing deal!!! Mine which is tricked out now, or a new A-Stock isn't really that much more either.


That would be great. Start with IMAGE and all the settings for 4K and then working down to INFO.


----------



## Dave Harper

panman40 said:


> I'm in the UK Dave, thanks for clarifying what you found!. I thought it odd that bright cinema should reach P3 but now know it doesnt. it does look pretty good though.
> 
> 
> 
> *So are you still recommending digital cinema with your HDR to SDR harpervision* and did you have time to refine it in any way recently ?.
> 
> Cheers



Absolutely! 




inspector said:


> That would be great. Start with IMAGE and all the settings for 4K and then working down to INFO.



That's what I plan on doing after I get this LS10000 completed. Maybe tonight and I'll do a back to back comparison.


----------



## john barlow

Schuyler Bain said:


> What are you using to watch the movies (disc player, HTPC)? Anyone else seeing frame rate/motion issue?


I have no motion or artifact issues whatsoever. Oppo 203 and Epson 5040ub combo.


----------



## john barlow

inspector said:


> Cable:
> 
> 
> Monoprice directional Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed...mine is 40' and works PERFECT = $25
> 
> 
> Player:
> 
> 
> Samsung K8500
> Oppo 203
> Phillips 7501
> Panasonic 900
> 
> 
> Glasses:
> 
> 
> Epson from Amazon ($82) vs Epson ($99)
> There are others, personally I can say that the Epson's work.
> 
> 
> You don't need to upgrade your receiver. Run you HDMI 2.0 to your player (as the pass thru)then a 1.4 to your receiver and you'll get 4K, 3D and what ever sound you have.
> 
> 
> Good luck!


Value Vue 3D active RF glasses work great with the 5040. Also, Samsung glasses that frequently go on sale 2 pairs for $20. Can't beat that. One issue with a couple of the Samsung glasses I've had is holding a charge. You can send them back if that's an issue.


----------



## john barlow

jwhn said:


> There are ways to convert to 24p if you get the HDFury, as far as I understand.
> 
> You also need a streaming device that will support HDR in 24p with the services you want to use. FireTV or XBox, for example, won't work even with Netflix because they don't support it.


I'm using an HDFury Integral with my Roku Ultra and have had no success streaming HDR on Amazon or Netflix. I've set the integral to 4k30 and I get a decent 4k image but, no HDR worth mentioning.


----------



## Sundodger

jwhn said:


> I have now tried the Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic and they can all stream Netflix in HDR. But not Amazon. The key is to set the 24p setting to 'Auto'. I just returned the Panasonic and am keeping the Sony because I can detect zero difference in picture quality. The Panasonic has the slider to increase brightness in HDR but I don't see that benefit being worth more than double the price. In case this helps anyone...having tried all 3 of these players.


Thanks for testing on the variety of players.

Have you tried playing HDR on redeemed Digital Download codes using something like Vudu (or an UltraViolet app)?


----------



## Dave Harper

john barlow said:


> I'm using an HDFury Integral with my Roku Ultra and have had no success streaming HDR on Amazon or Netflix. I've set the integral to 4k30 and I get a decent 4k image but, no HDR worth mentioning.



That is because the Integral doesn't scale. Those settings are just for telling the source what the max EDID resolutions are. If you set to 4K30, then the Roku sees that as max, but it can't stream at 30 or 24p, so it probably only sends 1080i/p or low 4K with rec709 8 bit to fit the reported max bandwidth/resolution the Integral is set to. 

The Linker can scale though, but I'm not sure if it scales frame rates, only resolution and color.


----------



## inspector

Just received my NEW 6040 projector with 1.09 FW today. Mounted it and threw in a 3Der COLD with no warm up, my worst one...Jaws 3 3D...it played perfectly!


What can I say, Epson said it put out a few bad ones and the one I received works great! 


Just have to send my old one back tomorrow morning thru FedEx and my adventure will be over.


Inspector


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Your harpervision gamma for bright cinema ?, the one that's similar to oledurts. I have to be honest I don't see the better WCG in digital cinema mode with your HDR to SDR gamma and I have colour at 80 for that. It's difficult comparing back to back as you have to not only change memory's but go in and set HDR 1 to SDR which prolongs the comparison but I've always felt even before you posted the harpervision gammas that bright cinema cannot be far off WCG even without the P3 filter.
> 
> Have you actually measured both to check ?, I remember oledurts calibrator saying that bright cinema did actually cover WCG ?.
> 
> The ls1000 sounds great!, will have to have a look see but it's way out of my price range!.


 going to use Harper settings. My signal is 4:2:2 not 4:4:4 is that a issue...a bit new to this. Love your settings also


----------



## ac388

Lesmor said:


> Hi @*Dave Harper*
> Just a vote of thanks for your patience and your settings
> Looking forward to seeing them in a different format so I don't get confused
> There are not many who will entertain comments and suggestions with such grace
> 
> Andy


Cannot agree more with you. Also looking forward to Dave's non-HDR 4K settings.


----------



## robc1976

ac388 said:


> Cannot agree more with you. Also looking forward to Dave's non-HDR 4K settings.


agreed! Can't wait for 1080P settings!


----------



## jwhn

Sundodger said:


> Thanks for testing on the variety of players.
> 
> Have you tried playing HDR on redeemed Digital Download codes using something like Vudu (or an UltraViolet app)?


I have not. I can test it on the Sony and see if it works.


----------



## ac388

robc1976 said:


> agreed! Can't wait for 1080P settings!


I am more interested in non-HDR 4K settings n not 1080P settings, since those can easily be done with bluray disc like Disney WOW . However, 4K calibration material are hard to come by, n even when available on Sony UHD disc, I don't even know how to use it properly.


----------



## robc1976

ac388 said:


> I am more interested in non-HDR 4K settings n not 1080P settings, since those can easily be done with bluray disc like Disney WOW . However, 4K calibration material are hard to come by, n even when available on Sony UHD disc, I don't even know how to use it properly.


I would be very interested in that also, I don't even know how to use HDR yet lol! What is this disk your referring to? Disney WOW?


----------



## Lesmor

Surely a disc only gives the amature something better than out of the box
It can never be classed as a calibration?


----------



## ac388

robc1976 said:


> I would be very interested in that also, I don't even know how to use HDR yet lol! What is this disk your referring to? Disney WOW?


Just a regular bluray disc. Sometimes it comes free inside a Sony movie.


----------



## LookN2Find

Is anyone using a grey screen, or know if self calibration of the 5040 with a grey screen will compensate and still perform as well as whites on a white screen at night? I am getting closer to ordering everything, and I've been on the fence with screen colors for the projector, because I have a good bit of light coming into the room I'll be using.

Oh! I almost forgot... I've read a lot of mixed reviews on viewing 4K movies. Is it true (from one reviewer's perspective) that the pixel shifting function only seems to help with 1080 sources, but not 4K? I can't remember which website made the statement, but they stated that things seemed blurry when using pixel shifting, and that made me curious if there was any improvement while viewing 4K. I realize the pixels themselves don't change in size, and found closeups of both, 1080 and 4k pixels that one someone on YouTube posted a video of, but I was wondering if their were still a noticeable appearance with the down conversion to 1080. I have a gaming PC and run some games beyond 4K, and it is a massive improvement displayed on a 1080 set. Hoping the 5040 is handles 4K film just as well.


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> Surely a disc only gives the amature something better than out of the box
> It can never be classed as a calibration?


I just had a professional calibration scheduled. Only way I will get this done correctly.


----------



## inspector

Just a heads up. As you know, there are many, many film modes and your calibrator might not do them all. 4K, BD/SD, 3D color, 3D B&W. 


I went with CINEMA for BD/SD and am using that for 4K, 3D color/B&W. I'm waiting for Harper to give all the stats from top to bottom of 4K. 


Good luck!


----------



## Bob Sorel

Can the 5040 accept and display a 4k/60hz 4:4:4 signal? If not, what is the limitation of HDMI 1?


----------



## jwhn

LookN2Find said:


> Is anyone using a grey screen, or know if self calibration of the 5040 with a grey screen will compensate and still perform as well as whites on a white screen at night? I am getting closer to ordering everything, and I've been on the fence with screen colors for the projector, because I have a good bit of light coming into the room I'll be using.


Search through my posts and you will find some pictures I posted with a half white / half grey Elite screen in different light settings. My conclusion was that the grey will not perform as well as the white in a dark room. The grey helps when there is a lot of light, but if you can keep the light at a minimum and not directly toward the screen the white is fine. A higher end grey screen may do better. Not sure about that.


----------



## Evan201

LookN2Find said:


> Is anyone using a grey screen, or know if self calibration of the 5040 with a grey screen will compensate and still perform as well as whites on a white screen at night? I am getting closer to ordering everything, and I've been on the fence with screen colors for the projector, because I have a good bit of light coming into the room I'll be using.


I have the Elite Cinegrey 5D 105" mounted 12' from my 5040ub and I'm loving it. Absolutely great at all hours of the day. I do not have a bat cave. My setup is a living room so lights can go on and off at different times. The wife absolutely loves it and makes it easier for her to stomach a $3000 projector purchase before our first born comes in October!!!!


----------



## robc1976

inspector said:


> Just a heads up. As you know, there are many, many film modes and your calibrator might not do them all. 4K, BD/SD, 3D color, 3D B&W.
> 
> 
> I went with CINEMA for BD/SD and am using that for 4K, 3D color/B&W. I'm waiting for Harper to give all the stats from top to bottom of 4K.
> 
> 
> Good luck!


 Very good point, I like natural, cinema, bright cinema (uhd)


----------



## Dave Harper

ac388 said:


> I am more interested in non-HDR 4K settings n not 1080P settings, since those can easily be done with bluray disc like Disney WOW . However, 4K calibration material are hard to come by, n even when available on Sony UHD disc, I don't even know how to use it properly.





robc1976 said:


> agreed! Can't wait for 1080P settings!





ac388 said:


> Cannot agree more with you. Also looking forward to Dave's non-HDR 4K settings.





inspector said:


> Just a heads up. As you know, there are many, many film modes and your calibrator might not do them all. 4K, BD/SD, 3D color, 3D B&W.
> 
> I went with CINEMA for BD/SD and am using that for 4K, 3D color/B&W. I'm waiting for Harper to give all the stats from top to bottom of 4K.
> 
> Good luck!


Oh no, are you guys expecting HarperVision for 1080P and SDR 4K? Like custom gammas and all? 

I was just going to do basic user type settings and then grayscale and CMS calibrations. 





robc1976 said:


> going to use Harper settings. My signal is 4:2:2 not 4:4:4 is that a issue...a bit new to this. Love your settings also


That shouldn't matter. 





Bob Sorel said:


> Can the 5040 accept and display a 4k/60hz 4:4:4 signal? If not, what is the limitation of HDMI 1?



I believe it's 4k60p 4:2:2 8 bit


----------



## aaranddeeman

robc1976 said:


> agreed! Can't wait for 1080P settings!


Not to dismiss Dave's excellent HDR setting and his understanding of the whole visual game.
But if you want to use SDR setting, please see my signature for HCFR calibrated numbers for Cinema. See if you like them.


----------



## inspector

Dave Harper said:


> Oh no, are you guys expecting HarperVision for 1080P and SDR 4K? Like custom gammas and all?
> 
> I was just going to do basic user type settings and then grayscale and CMS calibrations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That shouldn't matter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it's 4k60p 4:2:2 8 bit



Only settings for 4K...top to bottom!!!


----------



## robc1976

Please bare with me on this we question, still new to me lol! 

I had display calibrate today

He calibrate

1080p
4K SDR
4K HDR

I want to use the SDR Calibration for Uhd 4K but it always puts it in HDR. My question is can you watch 4K UHD movies in SDR? Is there a setting to do this? If not whats the point of SDR? 

I.am a bit lost


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Please bare with me on this we question, still new to me lol!
> 
> I had display calibrate today
> 
> He calibrate
> 
> 1080p
> 4K SDR
> 4K HDR
> 
> I want to use the SDR Calibration for Uhd 4K but it always puts it in HDR. My question is can you watch 4K UHD movies in SDR? Is there a setting to do this? If not whats the point of SDR?
> 
> I.am a bit lost


There are some 4K sources that are SDR rec709, so that is why he calibrated to that as well. Try turning HDR OFF in your player.

Go ahead and send HDR, then manually select SDR mode and apply my settings that are listed below my signature. Report back your thoughts!


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> There are some 4K sources that are SDR rec709, so that is why he calibrated to that as well. Try turning HDR OFF in your player.
> 
> Go ahead and send HDR, then manually select SDR mode and apply my settings that are listed below my signature. Report back your thoughts!


so put in UHD, let it send HDR then manually put it th HDR and put in your settings and save in another memory? Could I also try his setting this way, manually put it in sdr on his settings...although I know yours will be better lol!


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> so put in UHD, let it send HDR then manually put it th HDR and put in your settings and save in another memory? Could I also try his setting this way, manually put it in sdr on his settings...although I know yours will be better lol!


Yes, put in a UHD HDR BT2020 disc and send that to your projector. It will automatically put it into HDR mode. What you do is manually select SDR instead and select it in the Digital Cinema Mode so it keeps the wide color gamut filter for BT2020 colors. Then go in and put the settings listed in my link (contrast, saturation custom gamma).

This can be on top of his calibration, if he used Digital Cinema Mode for your HDR calibration?


----------



## panman40

aaranddeeman said:


> Not to dismiss Dave's excellent HDR setting and his understanding of the whole visual game.
> But if you want to use SDR setting, please see my signature for HCFR calibrated numbers for Cinema. See if you like them.


So with your cinema settings your forcing the projector to SDR from an HDR source the same as Dave ? Or are you using cinema for rec709/1080p ?.


----------



## mtmason

LookN2Find said:


> Is anyone using a grey screen, or know if self calibration of the 5040 with a grey screen will compensate and still perform as well as whites on a white screen at night? I am getting closer to ordering everything, and I've been on the fence with screen colors for the projector, because I have a good bit of light coming into the room I'll be using.
> 
> Oh! I almost forgot... I've read a lot of mixed reviews on viewing 4K movies. Is it true (from one reviewer's perspective) that the pixel shifting function only seems to help with 1080 sources, but not 4K? I can't remember which website made the statement, but they stated that things seemed blurry when using pixel shifting, and that made me curious if there was any improvement while viewing 4K. I realize the pixels themselves don't change in size, and found closeups of both, 1080 and 4k pixels that one someone on YouTube posted a video of, but I was wondering if their were still a noticeable appearance with the down conversion to 1080. I have a gaming PC and run some games beyond 4K, and it is a massive improvement displayed on a 1080 set. Hoping the 5040 is handles 4K film just as well.


I don't see a reason to have a grey screen unless you're dealing with ambient light. Mine is in a living room, and makes a huge difference. In total darkness I don't think it makes a difference. I don't notice color shift or whites being less bright. I certainly would if someone stuck white screen material up while I was watching, but that's it. On the other hand, with ambient light I would definitely notice washed out blacks on a white screen. I wouldn't need a direct comparison to know it could be better. 

As for your 4k question, it doesn't make a lot of sense. I can assure you 4k content looks better than 1080 content, and 1080 content looks great. I saw a 6040 at a Best Buy with 1080 content and was pretty amazed. I went home and ordered a 5040 about two hours later. I was thinking this can hold me over until true 4k is affordable, but I have a feeling they'll start pixel shifting 4k chips at some point too!

MM


----------



## mtmason

*Horrible sound when displaying picture*

I have about 100 hours on my 5040, and it suddenly started making a horrible grating, buzzing noise. If I blank the screen the noise stops. Press the blank button again, and noise is back. Its not related to fans. Any ideas what this might be? Thanks for your your thoughts. 

MM


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, put in a UHD HDR BT2020 disc and send that to your projector. It will automatically put it into HDR mode. What you do is manually select SDR instead and select it in the Digital Cinema Mode so it keeps the wide color gamut filter for BT2020 colors. Then go in and put the settings listed in my link (contrast, saturation custom gamma).
> 
> This can be on top of his calibration, if he used Digital Cinema Mode for your HDR calibration?


He used digital cinema for 4K SDR, if I put your settings over his won't I lose his calibration? I rather not lose his lol! Cant I select another memory then put in UHD disk, then put it to SDR then put in your settings?


----------



## LookN2Find

mtmason said:


> I don't see a reason to have a grey screen unless you're dealing with ambient light. Mine is in a living room, and makes a huge difference. In total darkness I don't think it makes a difference. I don't notice color shift or whites being less bright. I certainly would if someone stuck white screen material up while I was watching, but that's it. On the other hand, with ambient light I would definitely notice washed out blacks on a white screen. I wouldn't need a direct comparison to know it could be better.
> 
> As for your 4k question, it doesn't make a lot of sense. I can assure you 4k content looks better than 1080 content, and 1080 content looks great. I saw a 6040 at a Best Buy with 1080 content and was pretty amazed. I went home and ordered a 5040 about two hours later. I was thinking this can hold me over until true 4k is affordable, but I have a feeling they'll start pixel shifting 4k chips at some point too!
> 
> MM


I have a lot of ambient light, as it will be set up in my den with the kitchen often being lit, which is behind the couch. The entire wall on the left is full of windows - 2 full windows, and the door going to the back yard that is on the left is mostly glass. On the right is 1 window, and in the kitchen, just behind the den is another window. I would like to be able to have lamps on at times as well. The reason this is so difficult for me (understanding what screen is the wisest) is the projector will be my daytime and night time viewing area, and I am chronically ill. I like to watch movies or play games during the day to occupy me from the pure boredom of my lifestyle (not being able to leave home except for appointments). My only options are to stay in bed and watch TV or play games on a 55" TV, or to go into the den and try to feel a bit more productive by not staying in the bed. I would like to be able to have company over for sports, and that would be NASCAR, which is during the day, and my Dad and Brother will come over to watch, and they won't want to watch in the dark. I'm not personally a NASCAR fan, but I enjoy having family around. I will also be watching college football, and mostly during the day. 

Really, I am probably asking for way too much out of projection, because I'm a big movie fan and it helps keep me occupied at night to watch a few movies. So, I'm probably trying to achieve something that may not be possible, which is to have very good quality in the day while also wanting the ultimate quality at night. I've even considered a black screen, but I know I can't afford a screen from Screen Innovations. So, maybe my best option is to go with a 70" TV vs a 125" 2.35:1 projection screen and call it a day?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> He used digital cinema for 4K SDR, if I put your settings over his won't I lose his calibration? I rather not lose his lol! Cant I select another memory then put in UHD disk, then put it to SDR then put in your settings?


Oh wow. What did he use for HDR then? Digital Cinema has the bt2020 filter so it's more useful for HDR. He's probably doing it because he thinks it's too dark so uses Bright Cinema or something and decides to lose the filter. Is he at least setup to use SDR w/ bt2020 WCG on Digital Cinema?

You can try my settings in the Cinema Mode I guess. I haven't done that but it can't hurt. You may have to tweak it some then. Report back how it works. 




mtmason said:


> I have about 100 hours on my 5040, and it suddenly started making a horrible grating, buzzing noise. If I blank the screen the noise stops. Press the blank button again, and noise is back. Its not related to fans. Any ideas what this might be? Thanks for your your thoughts.
> 
> 
> 
> MM



Maybe it's the eshift? Try sending 1080p and then turning that off in the menu to see if it ceases. It could also be the Iris.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Oh wow. What did he use for HDR then? Digital Cinema has the bt2020 filter so it's more useful for HDR. He's probably doing it because he thinks it's too dark so uses Bright Cinema or something and decides to lose the filter. Is he at least setup to use SDR w/ bt2020 WCG on Digital Cinema?
> 
> You can try my settings in the Cinema Mode I guess. I haven't done that but it can't hurt. You may have to tweak it some then. Report back how


He seemed very knowledgeable, been calibrating for 18 years. His 1080P settings are awesome. He is set up for everything.

Here he is

http://lionav.com/new/doug-weil/

He used 

Cinema for 1080P
Digital cinema for SDR
Bright cinema for HDR (kinda my fault on that)

Cant I use your settings in another memory with digital cinema?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> He seemed very knowledgeable, been calibrating for 18 years. His 1080P settings are awesome. He is set up for everything.
> 
> 
> 
> Here he is
> 
> 
> 
> http://lionav.com/new/doug-weil/
> 
> 
> 
> He used
> 
> 
> 
> Cinema for 1080P
> 
> Digital cinema for SDR
> 
> Bright cinema for HDR (kinda my fault on that)
> 
> 
> 
> Cant I use your settings in another memory with digital cinema?



Oh cool. Yes I know the Lion guys. I passed along much of my work to Gregg Loewen while I was deploying to Afghanistan between 2007-2011. I attended a few of his classes and seminars!

I'm sure you can save another memory. Just write it ALL down first just in case! I don't recall all that transfers over into the memories.


----------



## aaranddeeman

panman40 said:


> So with your cinema settings your forcing the projector to SDR from an HDR source the same as Dave ? Or are you using cinema for rec709/1080p ?.


No.
This is straight forward calibration for SDR.
The CMS is calibrated for DCI-P3.


----------



## panman40

aaranddeeman said:


> No.
> This is straight forward calibration for SDR.
> The CMS is calibrated for DCI-P3.


Thanks that's interesting, I'm getting a little confused if I'm honest lol!, SDR to me means rec709/1080p, I've heard that cinema and digital cinema is not best used for that as it has the P3 filter drop in ?.
I might give it a try and add a 795th memory  lol.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Oh cool. Yes I know the Lion guys. I passed along much of my work to Gregg Loewen while I was deploying to Afghanistan between 2007-2011. I attended a few of his classes and seminars!
> 
> I'm sure you can save another memory. Just write it ALL down first just in case! I don't recall all that transfers over into the memories.


I have a out of the box menory, I will just write all the settings in.

That makes me feel good, if you say his good that is all I need to hear.


----------



## Karl Meyer

JewDaddy said:


> Sorry if that was confusing. With the Harpervision settings, you are watching an HDR source but changing the Dynamic Range of the projector to SDR. As Dave stated, you're not losing HDR but just displaying as an SDR Range to keep the brightness. With my settings, you can keep on Auto Bright so it changes with the source you're watching whether it be an HDR or SDR source.
> 
> If you haven't personally had time to calibrate your Epson to the kind of picture you prefer, it never hurts to start with someone's settings and then tweak to your liking. I actually prefer it that way. Let someone else do all the work and then change whatever you think needs to be changed. Just so you know, the settings I listed above are strictly for a 4K HDR source. I have a separate set of settings including a custom gamma that I use for everything else. And the good thing is that I've tweaked my regular non 4K HDR settings to where they look good on any source. So whether it be a video game, standard 1080p blu-ray, Streaming service such as Netflix or Hulu and also works well with my Satellite. It's been a constant back and forth with tweaks here and there and I'm finally at that place all of us videophiles want to be at and that's......content  Lol
> 
> Anyways, my settings might work for others or make people think I'm crazy for setting them where they're at. The main thing is to tweak and adjust to your liking.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the info is there any way you could post your normal everything else settings. I get to watch so little in hdr with my setup that a good starting point on the basic settings would be so helpful.

Thanks


----------



## LookN2Find

Does the 5040 have corrections for curved screens?


----------



## mikecoscia

panman40 said:


> Ahh ok, I would definately level the PJ and try and use the down shift rather than keystone, it's really not recommended as it can degrade the image.
> You should have enough lens shift I think.





mikecoscia said:


> Okay, I'll give that a try today or tomorrow and report back. I also called up epson tech support, but they weren't very helpful. They kept thinking I was talking about the black bars when you play a 2:35:1 source on a 16:9 screen...lol.


Just wanted to followup in case any others run into the same issue. I finally had time to re-level the projector and use image shift only to move the image onto the screen. Bingo, the image fits perfectly on the screen. Tilting the projector and using keystone must have been altering the image ratio. Thanks again panman40!


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Oh wow. What did he use for HDR then? Digital Cinema has the bt2020 filter so it's more useful for HDR. He's probably doing it because he thinks it's too dark so uses Bright Cinema or something and decides to lose the filter. Is he at least setup to use SDR w/ bt2020 WCG on Digital Cinema?
> 
> You can try my settings in the Cinema Mode I guess. I haven't done that but it can't hurt. You may have to tweak it some then. Report back how it works


 Dave used his settings saved in different memory, put your settings in, only thing is ge calibrated RGBCMY so should I set those back to default 50 for your settings?


----------



## ayrton

*Harpervision*

Just installed Dave's settings tonight, and WOW!

Appreciate all the work you did as I never would have the savvy to do this.

Played all my "Dark" HDR movies and life is good..

Some very helpful people on AVS!!!!!


----------



## panman40

LookN2Find said:


> Does the 5040 have corrections for curved screens?


I can't say I've seen anything like that in the menus.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Oh wow. What did he use for HDR then? Digital Cinema has the bt2020 filter so it's more useful for HDR. He's probably doing it because he thinks it's too dark so uses Bright Cinema or something and decides to lose the filter. Is he at least setup to use SDR w/ bt2020 WCG on Digital Cinema?
> 
> You can try my settings in the Cinema Mode I guess. I haven't done that but it can't hurt. You may have to tweak it some then. Report back how it works


 Dave used his settings saved in different memory, put your settings in, only thing is ge calibrated RGBCMY so should I set those back to default 50 for your settings?


----------



## robc1976

ayrton said:


> Just installed Dave's settings tonight, and WOW!
> 
> Appreciate all the work you did as I never would have the savvy to do this.
> 
> Played all my "Dark" HDR movies and life is good..
> 
> Some very helpful people on AVS!!!!!


The detail and black levels were awesome but overall to dark for me, wondering if I messed something up?


----------



## panman40

Which mode are you guys mainly using for 3D ?, I'm using cinema 3D simply because dynamic has a huge green push in the greyscale, ( can be seen clearly in onscreen menu boxes).
Eventually I want to try and create a gamma for 3D which will add some brightness and pop as I only use medium lamp and find things a little dim.


----------



## robc1976

I prefer Harper settings with "bright cinema" actually would like just a bit more light, iris?


----------



## mrbeezly

Hey everyone, I've been reading the forum for a few days and want to see if I can get some suggestions. I'm really just trying to maximize the potential of this projector and could use some advice. I recently upgraded from the 4030 to the 5040. 4k content looks awesome but again just looking for advice on settings etc. to get the best picture possible. 

Setup:
Epson 5040
Yamaha Aventage 2060
Comcast HD/DVR X1 box
Fire TV (2nd gen with 4k)

I haven't purchased a UHD Blu Ray player yet. Not sure I really care to start purchasing media again, however would purchase if its going to make streaming better. Will mostly be streaming media from a Plex Server (1080p content), Youtube, Amazon via a Fire TV. 

I've changed the 4k setting on the Yamaha to Mode 1, which according to the manual supports more versions of 4k.

Any suggestions on players, settings, etc. to just maximize the viewing quality would be great.


----------



## jwhn

mrbeezly said:


> Hey everyone, I've been reading the forum for a few days and want to see if I can get some suggestions. I'm really just trying to maximize the potential of this projector and could use some advice. I recently upgraded from the 4030 to the 5040. 4k content looks awesome but again just looking for advice on settings etc. to get the best picture possible.
> 
> Setup:
> Epson 5040
> Yamaha Aventage 2060
> Comcast HD/DVR X1 box
> Fire TV (2nd gen with 4k)
> 
> I haven't purchased a UHD Blu Ray player yet. Not sure I really care to start purchasing media again, however would purchase if its going to make streaming better. Will mostly be streaming media from a Plex Server (1080p content), Youtube, Amazon via a Fire TV.
> 
> I've changed the 4k setting on the Yamaha to Mode 1, which according to the manual supports more versions of 4k.
> 
> Any suggestions on players, settings, etc. to just maximize the viewing quality would be great.


You will need to decide whether you want to watch HDR content as your current setup will not enable you to do so. If you want HDR you will need to get a player and/or streaming device that supports HDR. Most of the UHD players seem to support HDR streaming on Netflix and then you can also play HDR disks.


----------



## ayrton

robc1976 said:


> The detail and black levels were awesome but overall to dark for me, wondering if I messed something up?


The biggest thing for me was that I had my Oppo 203 set to "Strip HDR metadata". When I set that to send HDR, all brightened up. Had my 5040 set to SDR, per Dave..

Best of luck with yours...


----------



## mrbeezly

What is the recommended UHD Blu Ray player in 2017, sub $300?


----------



## Evan201

mrbeezly said:


> What is the recommended UHD Blu Ray player in 2017, sub $300?


Philips BDP7501


----------



## robc1976

ayrton said:


> The biggest thing for me was that I had my Oppo 203 set to "Strip HDR metadata". When I set that to send HDR, all brightened up. Had my 5040 set to SDR, per Dave..
> 
> Best of luck with yours...


My x800 sony only has off or auto unless there is a setting I am missing. I have played 4 bluerays. Going to get the UB900 with HDR slider.

Anybody want a brand new Sony x800 cheap lol!


----------



## robc1976

aaranddeeman said:


> Not to dismiss Dave's excellent HDR setting and his understanding of the whole visual game.
> But if you want to use SDR setting, please see my signature for HCFR calibrated numbers for Cinema. See if you like them.


I will for sure


----------



## philipbtz

I finally got around to testing the Dave Harper settings...well almost his settings. I run in Digital Cinema and Eco on the lamp. And it looks great I have to say  It really brings out the details in the picture!


----------



## robc1976

philipbtz said:


> I finally got around to testing the Dave Harper settings...well almost his settings. I run in Digital Cinema and Eco on the lamp. And it looks great I have to say  It really brings out the details in the picture!


Mine in high lamp was to dim, I like it in bright cinema but would like a bit more light. Detail is crazy good. I think it was the sony doing something. I went out to day and got the UB900 so I can use his settings with digital cinema and then use the HDR slider and make it brighter without hurting black level. My projector is 22ft back so I need more light.


----------



## Viche

robc1976 said:


> My x800 sony only has off or auto unless there is a setting I am missing. I have played 4 bluerays. Going to get the UB900 with HDR slider.
> 
> Anybody want a brand new Sony x800 cheap lol!



Do you have your lamp on high per the Harpervision settings?

Edit: oops, missed your post above


----------



## robc1976

philipbtz said:


> I finally got around to testing the Dave Harper settings...well almost his settings. I run in Digital Cinema and Eco on the lamp. And it looks great I have to say  It really brings out the details in the picture!


 how is your picture not to dark in Eco?


----------



## robc1976

I know with Harper vision settings he does not give RGBYCM settings because that is room dependent. I had my display calibrate in digital cinema also, I wonder if I can use harper settings then add in the RGBYCM settings in my calibration? Should I do this or just leave them at default 50? I can't see that hurting anything?


----------



## mrbeezly

Anyone have any 1080p SDR settings they'd recommend? 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> Mine in high lamp was to dim, I like it in bright cinema but would like a bit more light. Detail is crazy good. I think it was the sony doing something. I went out to day and got the UB900 so I can use his settings with digital cinema and then use the HDR slider and make it brighter without hurting black level. My projector is 22ft back so I need more light.


Just a tip, if you use even 1 notch of the HDR slider on the ub900 with Daves settings it will ruin black levels within darker scenes. It doesn't seem to affect black movie bars to much though, only blacks within a scene.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Just a tip, if you use even 1 notch of the HDR slider on the ub900 with Daves settings it will ruin black levels within darker scenes. It doesn't seem to affect black movie bars to much though, only blacks within a scene.


 I know there are other settings on here guy can use the slider with. Is there a way to get daves a bit more bright other than putting it in bright cinnema? I guess up brightness?


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> I know there are other settings on here guy can use the slider with. Is there a way to get daves a bit more bright other than putting it in bright cinnema? I guess up brightness?


Upping the brightness will just wash the image out and raise black levels, raising contrast will to some degree make it brighter but you will then clip highlights, is there no way you can get the projector closer to the screen ?, the other option is use Daves bright cinema and gamma for HDR.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Upping the brightness will just wash the image out and raise black levels, raising contrast will to some degree make it brighter but you will then clip highlights, is there no way you can get the projector closer to the screen ?, the other option is use Daves bright cinema and gamma for HDR.


Daves settings have contrast maxed so I may have to use his bright cinema settings.

I actually could move projector forward, I have it right behind last row of seats, reason for that eas to keep it out of peoples line of sight but don't think itd a issue anymore. Also, my installer kinda messed that up saying that was as close as I could get it ect...long story lol! 

I am at about 23ft+ I could move it 7-9ft forward so it was at 15-17ft. Would that make that much difference? I just had my display calibrated for 1080P, 4KSDR, 4KHDR won't that totally mess up calibrations?


----------



## robc1976

Just got the UB900 to replace my sony X800 (sony left a lot to be desired) but my question is this.

1. On my Sony I ran HDMI from the AUDIO/VIDEO port but didn't have to select anything in menu after that.

Should I run the UB900 hdmi (video/audio) port then select hdmi in the menu to run video/audio also? The menu said something about 4k not being displayed if video and audio "out" were used, I am guessing they mean both HDMI ports at same time?


----------



## Lesmor

mrbeezly said:


> Anyone have any 1080p SDR settings they'd recommend?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Ask Martin @panman40 he might oblige by showing his screenshots

If he gives permission to post them I have them in text format


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> Ask Martin @panman40 he might oblige by showing his screenshots
> 
> If he gives permission to post them I have them in text format


Cheers Andy, yes no problem, only thing I've changed since then is contrast at 46 now ( superwhite on). Perhaps you can add your contrast as an option to try with your superwhite off setting ?.

Martin.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> The detail and black levels were awesome but overall to dark for me, wondering if I messed something up?



Something must not be right. The one thing with this is that it brings back SDR type tones and brightness, yet keeps the image with many HDR attributes in tact, unlike tone mapping and stripping HDR in the player. 

You're starting to sound like a good candidate for DLP or something. You want a light cannon! Are you paying attention to black levels at all?



ayrton said:


> Just installed Dave's settings tonight, and WOW!
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate all the work you did as I never would have the savvy to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> Played all my "Dark" HDR movies and life is good..
> 
> 
> 
> Some very helpful people on AVS!!!!!



You're welcome and thanks! 



robc1976 said:


> I prefer Harper settings with "bright cinema" actually would like just a bit more light, iris?



I don't know how. It's designed to work with the bt2020 wide color gamut filter of Digital Cinema Mode. 




philipbtz said:


> I finally got around to testing the Dave Harper settings...well almost his settings. I run in Digital Cinema and Eco on the lamp. And it looks great I have to say  It really brings out the details in the picture!


 
Thanks, glad you like it! 



robc1976 said:


> I know with Harper vision settings he does not give RGBYCM settings because that is room dependent. I had my display calibrate in digital cinema also, I wonder if I can use harper settings then add in the RGBYCM settings in my calibration? Should I do this or just leave them at default 50? I can't see that hurting anything?





robc1976 said:


> Dave used his settings saved in different memory, put your settings in, only thing is ge calibrated RGBCMY so should I set those back to default 50 for your settings?



I'm about to drop updated settings with CMS if I ever get more time from work and just stop feeling so under the weather. Whatever I had a couple weeks ago knocked me down a few pegs and I just don't have the stamina yet after I get home from a long day's work. Sorry guys! 

It is very good with CMS at 50 to start with. Make sure to write your calibrated settings down!

P.S. - I just did back to back shows, one with NBA Legend Lenny Wilkins, and then the one that just finished featured Terry Bradshaw. So cool!


----------



## Leon1972

Dave Harper said:


> Something must not be right. The one thing with this is that it brings back SDR type tones and brightness, yet keeps the image with many HDR attributes in tact, unlike tone mapping and stripping HDR in the player.
> 
> You're starting to sound like a good candidate for DLP or something. You want a light cannon! Are you paying attention to black levels at all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome and thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how. It's designed to work with the bt2020 wide color gamut filter of Digital Cinema Mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, glad you like it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm about to drop updated settings with CMS if I ever get more time from work and just stop feeling so under the weather. Whatever I had a couple weeks ago knocked me down a few pegs and I just don't have the stamina yet after I get home from a long day's work. Sorry guys!
> 
> It is very good with CMS at 50 to start with. Make sure to write your calibrated settings down!
> 
> P.S. - I just did back to back shows, one with NBA Legend Lenny Wilkins, and then the one that just finished featured Terry Bradshaw. So cool!




Sorry to hear that bro! I thought you were already better. Hope you get to 100% soon!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## philipbtz

robc1976 said:


> how is your picture not to dark in Eco?


I run a 90" 1.0 gain white screen from 2.7 meter throw distance in a bat cave. On SDR content like BD I run Natural, gamma -1, iris -20, 7000K color temp and the picture is super bright. I wish I could dim a little more with normal BD and 1080p SDR Netflix.


----------



## ayrton

panman40 said:


> Upping the brightness will just wash the image out and raise black levels, raising contrast will to some degree make it brighter but you will then clip highlights, is there no way you can get the projector closer to the screen ?, the other option is use Daves bright cinema and gamma for HDR.


I agree. Mine is ~12'.


----------



## Lesmor

panman40 said:


> Cheers Andy, yes no problem, only thing I've changed since then is contrast at 46 now ( superwhite on). Perhaps you can add your contrast as an option to try with your superwhite off setting ?.
> 
> Martin.


Here are @panman40 SDR settings
His screen and ambient light will be different from most members but it is a starting point
Also you should use a calibration disc to do your own brightness and contrast setting

Software Version 
6Z0076648RWWV109 
Rec.709 SDR

[Image] 
Colour Mode Natural
Brightness 51
Contrast 46
Colour Saturation 50
Tint 50
Sharpness 6
Thin Line Thickness Enhancement	default	
Thick Line Thickness Enhancement	default	


Colour Temp 6500
Customized
Offset R 48
Offset G 50
Offset B 48
Gain R 55
Gain G 50
Gain B 47
Frame Interpolation	Off	

[Image Enhancement]	
4K Enhancement 
Image Preset mode	2 or 3
Noise reduction Default
MPEG Noise reduction	Default	
[Super-Resolution]	Default	
[Detail Enhancement] 
Advanced 
Gamma 0 
Customized 
Colour Tone 1	0	
Colour Tone 2	+2	
Colour Tone 3	0	
Colour Tone 4	0	
Colour Tone 5	0	
Colour Tone 6	0	
Colour Tone 7	0	
Colour Tone 8	0	
Colour Tone 9	0	

CMS [RGBCMY]
*Red* 
Hue 48
Saturation 58
Brightness 38
*Green* 
Hue 49
Saturation 44
Brightness 53
*BLue* 
Hue 41
Saturation 53
Brightness 42
*Cyan* 
Hue 46
Saturation 46
Brightness 51
*Magenta* 
Hue 48
Saturation 50
Brightness 44
*Yellow* 
Hue 50
Saturation 42
Brightness 57

Deinterlaced	Blanked	
Epson Superwhite On
Lens Iris -20

Power Consumption (Lamp) Eco
Auto Iris	Off	
Reset 

[Signal] 
HDMI Video Range	Auto	
Colour Space Default
Dynamic Range Default
Image Processing	Default


----------



## panman40

philipbtz said:


> I run a 90" 1.0 gain white screen from 2.7 meter throw distance in a bat cave. On SDR content like BD I run Natural, gamma -1, iris -20, 7000K color temp and the picture is super bright. I wish I could dim a little more with normal BD and 1080p SDR Netflix.


I can imagine that will be pretty bright on a 90" 1.0 gain, I'm on a 106" 1.0/1.1 gain. I know all displays of the same model will be slightly different calibration wise but I'm not a fan of a 2.4 gamma, I guess it helps to dim the image if your maxed ( or should I say minned out) already.


----------



## Lesmor

panman40 said:


> I can imagine that will be pretty bright on a 90" 1.0 gain, I'm on a 106" 1.0/1.1 gain. I know all displays of the same model will be slightly different calibration wise but I'm not a fan of a 2.4 gamma, I guess it helps to dim the image if your maxed ( or should I say minned out) already.


Hi Martin
I edited your settings
I will add my contrast/brightness later


----------



## robc1976

philipbtz said:


> I run a 90" 1.0 gain white screen from 2.7 meter throw distance in a bat cave. On SDR content like BD I run Natural, gamma -1, iris -20, 7000K color temp and the picture is super bright. I wish I could dim a little more with normal BD and 1080p SDR Netflix.


 that makes total sense, I am at 23ft throw with a 138" 2.35.2


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> Hi Martin
> I edited your settings
> I will add my contrast/brightness later


Thanks Andy,


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Something must not be right. The one thing with this is that it brings back SDR type tones and brightness, yet keeps the image with many HDR attributes in tact, unlike tone mapping and stripping HDR in the player.
> 
> You're starting to sound like a good candidate for DLP or something. You want a light cannon! Are you paying attention to black levels at all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome and thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how. It's designed to work with the bt2020 wide color gamut filter of Digital Cinema Mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, glad you like it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm about to drop updated settings with CMS if I ever get more time from work and just stop feeling so under the weather. Whatever I had a couple weeks ago knocked me down a few pegs and I just don't have the stamina yet after I get home from a long day's work. Sorry guys!
> 
> It is very good with CMS at 50 to start with. Make sure to write your calibrated settings down!
> 
> P.S. - I just did back to back shows, one with NBA Legend Lenny Wilkins, and then the one that just finished featured Terry Bradshaw. So cool!


I hope you get better Dave! 

Maybe when my calibration was done something carried over? I Did reset it in different memory.

I will right everything down then take sceen shots of settings.

My oprojector is 23ft from screen on 138" 2:35:1, could that be it?


----------



## philipbtz

panman40 said:


> I can imagine that will be pretty bright on a 90" 1.0 gain, I'm on a 106" 1.0/1.1 gain. I know all displays of the same model will be slightly different calibration wise but I'm not a fan of a 2.4 gamma, I guess it helps to dim the image if your maxed ( or should I say minned out) already.


Yes it helps quite a bit. For Ultra HD BD I run the Harpervision settings like I said but before that I ran gamma 0 (equivalent to 2.2?) for 4k stuff and that helped bring out the detail with HDR but with 1080p SDR content no way I could run that it's too bright even with 2.4(-1). Running in Natural mode which doesn't have the P3 filter gives so much more light. But for 4k stuff the custom Harper gamma curve that enables me to run 100 contrast without blowing the whites out negates the less brightness in the Digital Cinema mode with the filter. 

--

Man having the option to save many different calibrations to memory is a must when watching both 1080l and 4k content. Some 4k stuff is with HDR some is without, some 1080p has HDR on Netflix etc. etc. A common theme with getting projectors to work with HDR seems to be a custom gamma curve.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I hope you get better Dave!
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe when my calibration was done something carried over? I Did reset it in different memory.
> 
> 
> 
> I will right everything down then take sceen shots of settings.
> 
> 
> 
> My oprojector is 23ft from screen on 138" 2:35:1, could that be it?



That's about the same size as mine, with a throw of about 17'. What screen and gain do you have again?


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> That's about the same size as mine, with a throw of about 17'. What screen and gain do you have again?


1.1 gain elite screen


----------



## Dave Harper

Ok. Mines a 1.3 gain Stewart StudioTek 130 so it'll be a tad brighter.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Ok. Mines a 1.3 gain Stewart StudioTek 130 so it'll be a tad brighter.


 do I need to move my projector in your opinion?


----------



## Dave Harper

That could help some but probably won't be super dramatic, although it'll probably be noticeable with 7' less throw.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> That could help some but probably won't be super dramatic, althou
> 
> gh it'll probably be noticeable with 7' less throw.


 will go thru settings and post them, see if you see anything not correct


----------



## robc1976

Will moving projector forward 5-7ft ruin my calibration I had done? Its ar 23ft I want to move it to 16-18ft? Is 16-18ft enough throw for a 138" 2.35:.1? Will moving it forward really help with brightness?


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> That's about the same size as mine, with a throw of about 17'. What screen and gain do you have again?


dave here are my settings, everything look correct?


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> Here are @panman40 SDR settings
> His screen and ambient light will be different from most members but it is a starting point
> Also you should use a calibration disc to do your own brightness and contrast setting
> 
> Software Version
> 6Z0076648RWWV109
> Rec.709 SDR
> 
> [Image]
> Colour Mode Natural
> Brightness 51
> Contrast 46
> Colour Saturation 50
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 6
> Thin Line Thickness Enhancement	default
> Thick Line Thickness Enhancement	default
> 
> 
> Colour Temp 6500
> Customized
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 50
> Offset B 48
> Gain R 55
> Gain G 50
> Gain B 47
> Frame Interpolation	Off
> 
> [Image Enhancement]
> 4K Enhancement
> Image Preset mode	2 or 3
> Noise reduction Default
> MPEG Noise reduction	Default
> [Super-Resolution]	Default
> [Detail Enhancement]
> Advanced
> Gamma
> 0
> Colour Tone 1
> Colour Tone 2
> Colour Tone 3
> Colour Tone 4
> Colour Tone 5
> Colour Tone 6
> Colour Tone 7
> Colour Tone 8
> Colour Tone 9
> 
> CMS [RGBCMY]
> *Red*
> Hue 48
> Saturation 58
> Brightness 38
> *Green*
> Hue 49
> Saturation 44
> Brightness 53
> *BLue*
> Hue 41
> Saturation 53
> Brightness 42
> *Cyan*
> Hue 46
> Saturation 46
> Brightness 51
> *Magenta*
> Hue 48
> Saturation 50
> Brightness 44
> *Yellow*
> Hue 50
> Saturation 42
> Brightness 57
> 
> Deinterlaced	Blanked
> Epson Superwhite On
> Lens Iris -20
> 
> Power Consumption (Lamp) Eco
> Auto Iris	Off
> Reset
> 
> [Signal]
> HDMI Video Range	Auto
> Colour Space Default
> Dynamic Range Default
> Image Processing	Default


 is the projector in a very dark room? This is for 1080P correct?


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

*VisualApex back at $2499 FYI*

Just ordered mine, upgrade from 5020. Look forward to gleaning some of the great stuff you guys have posted. Thanks!
Consensus UHD player as a best match for this projector Oppo 203 or ?


----------



## darkangelism

ComradeBrehznev said:


> Just ordered mine, upgrade from 5020. Look forward to gleaning some of the great stuff you guys have posted. Thanks!
> Consensus UHD player as a best match for this projector Oppo 203 or ?


panasonic UB900 is also liked.


----------



## robc1976

darkangelism said:


> panasonic UB900 is also liked.


its Bette than the sony and phillips imho


----------



## robc1976

ComradeBrehznev said:


> Just ordered mine, upgrade from 5020. Look forward to gleaning some of the great stuff you guys have posted. Thanks!
> Consensus UHD player as a best match for this projector Oppo 203 or ?


 dont make the mistake I made, put projector as close to the screen as possible, I put mine 23ft+ back and my picture is a bit dim, moving it forward tonight.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Will moving projector forward 5-7ft ruin my calibration I had done? Its ar 23ft I want to move it to 16-18ft? Is 16-18ft enough throw for a 138" 2.35:.1? Will moving it forward really help with brightness?



I don't think the greyscale and CMS will change enough to care about. Did he measure from the projector or off the screen?

The only thing you should check and adjust if needed would be the basics like brightness, contrast, etc. with a calibration disc or patterns. 




robc1976 said:


> dave here are my settings, everything look correct?



Those look ok from my recollection. Maybe you just like a super bright image or something and what's dim to you is more than adequate for most of us?


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I don't think the greyscale and CMS will change enough to care about. Did he measure from the projector or off the screen?
> 
> The only thing you should check and adjust if needed would be the basics like brightness, contrast, etc. with a calibration disc or patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those look ok from my recollection. Maybe you just like a super bright image or something and what's dim to you is more than adequate for most of us?


he measured off screen, everyone said it was a bit dark, Maybe its the movie? Assassin creed. Everyone agreed the detail and clarity was unreal! How about upping brightness a few notches? I am moving projector closer...you think 17-18ft is far enough for a 138"?


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

robc1976 said:


> dont make the mistake I made, put projector as close to the screen as possible, I put mine 23ft+ back and my picture is a bit dim, moving it forward tonight.


Thanks! My layout works best with the projector as close as possible to the screen, so it's about 12' feet back and I will try to install the 5040 in the same ceiling box, maybe removing the backside of the box. So it's basically over the seating but just behind the head. Noise is an issue on high brightness modes, so I use the 5020 on ECO mode always and usually cinema mode. If I have to run the 5040 on high fan modes for 4K I may need to modify the ceiling box. (somehow)


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> he measured off screen, everyone said it was a bit dark, Maybe its the movie? Assassin creed. Everyone agreed the detail and clarity was unreal! How about upping brightness a few notches? I am moving projector closer...you think 17-18ft is far enough for a 138"?


From what I hear that's a fairly dark movie, put on something like The Shallows, that's pretty bright.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> From what I hear that's a fairly dark movie, put on something like The Shallows, that's pretty bright.


 love that movie! I don't have that in uhd  I did move projector from 24ft to 17'8" so that should help a bit I would think


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> love that movie! I don't have that in uhd  I did move projector from 24ft to 17'8" so that should help a bit I would think


Yes I should think it will help for sure.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Yes I should think it will help for sure.


 had a weird thing happen, had xbox 1s ask if I wanted to switch to 4K resolution so I did. I thought xbox 1s couldn't have 4K gaming? I went to projector info and itv said it was 4K resolution BT 709 SDR?


----------



## philipbtz

ComradeBrehznev said:


> Just ordered mine, upgrade from 5020. Look forward to gleaning some of the great stuff you guys have posted. Thanks!
> Consensus UHD player as a best match for this projector Oppo 203 or ?


If you live in Europe go for the Panasonic UB700. It's like the UB900 in term of video/audio(HDMI) quality. And the UB900 has been shown to give a better picture than the Oppos. It might be slight but it's there. Also the Panasonic is cheaper. The Oppo will have better build quality, faster, cooler etc. but the Panasonic UB700/900 are very good. They for sure handle colors and black levels totally correct. I've tested many players and there is a difference imo. Btw I own the UB700 so I'm bias I guess.


----------



## impetigo

I just joined the club as the 5040ub went back on the $2499 sale. I got mine from Adorama but it's at that price at all the dealers. It'll be replacing my old ae8000u. Can't wait!


----------



## Lesmor

philipbtz said:


> If you live in Europe go for the Panasonic UB700. It's like the UB900 in term of video/audio(HDMI) quality. And the UB900 has been shown to give a better picture than the Oppos. It might be slight but it's there. Also the Panasonic is cheaper. The Oppo will have better build quality, faster, cooler etc. but the Panasonic UB700/900 are very good. They for sure handle colors and black levels totally correct. I've tested many players and there is a difference imo. Btw I own the UB700 so I'm bias I guess.


Totally agree
I am also biased but in a balanced way as I have both the UB700 and a Oppo 203
The UB 700 is noticeable better with video AND audio


----------



## Craig Peer

impetigo said:


> I just joined the club as the 5040ub went back on the $2499 sale. I got mine from Adorama but it's at that price at all the dealers. It'll be replacing my old ae8000u. Can't wait!


The 5040UB is hard to beat at the sale price, that's for sure. The sale ends June 3rd - just FYI.


----------



## Leon1972

I have a heat question for this projector. I am going to be building a media cabinet for this projector. The top rack row will be all completely open in the front with a hole in the back. How much space do I need to leave on the sides for air flow for the projector? I was thinking 3 inches on each side. Or is the only way I can safely do this is with a push/pull air flow system?


----------



## Jase25

impetigo said:


> I just joined the club as the 5040ub went back on the $2499 sale. I got mine from Adorama but it's at that price at all the dealers. It'll be replacing my old ae8000u. Can't wait!


Ordered mine last night from BestBuy and it shipped already. I'm like you, can't wait!


----------



## cdelena

Leon1972 said:


> I have a heat question for this projector. I am going to be building a media cabinet for this projector. The top rack row will be all completely open in the front with a hole in the back. How much space do I need to leave on the sides for air flow for the projector? I was thinking 3 inches on each side. Or is the only way I can safely do this is with a push/pull air flow system?


The front is where the air vents are located. I think you will be OK.

On my installation (it is basically on top of my equipment rack in the room behind the theater.) the opening through the wall for the projector is about a foot wide so some air flow is available and additionally the projector is 4 -5 inches behind the wall so nothing is blocked with the sides are open. 

It appears I have more than enough room for needed air flow.


----------



## rupedogg24

If you all want to see something really special in 4k pick this up. Wow! Really shows off the sharpness and detail of this projector.









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## ferelen

Hi everyone, 

hope someone would be able to help me with my problem. My projector has terrible ghosting. Literally every time. Either watching movie or playing games or doing anything else. I tried almost everything. Different settings, different sources, let it warm up for an hour, different cables of quality and length. I ended up with Monoprice Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed HDMI Cable, but still the same issue. Running latest firmware v1.9.
I read almost the whole forum here, but no one is complaining about this issue. Should be some ghosting in 3D mode, but never 2D like I'm experiencing (never used 3d with this projector). Am I the only one with this issue?? 
On the other side, the projector is awesome, the brightness and colours are superb, but in my case almost unusable because of the ghosting effect. After few minutes of watching, my eyes hurt, so I have a feeling that something is not right with this projector. 
Can you please advise, because I'm completely desperate. I previously owned two other projectors but never had a problem with such heavy ghosting before. Thanks.


----------



## Dave Harper

panman40 said:


> From what I hear that's a fairly dark movie, put on something like The Shallows, that's pretty bright.



Or Planet Earth II. There's many scenes that run the gamut from awesome darks (desert night scenes!) to bright sunlight and highlights (many jungle scenes). Not to mention the spectacular sharpness, resolution and details that thing throws at you!  





robc1976 said:


> he measured off screen, everyone said it was a bit dark, Maybe its the movie? Assassin creed. Everyone agreed the detail and clarity was unreal! How about upping brightness a few notches? I am moving projector closer...you think 17-18ft is far enough for a 138"?



I would ONLY put brightness where it calibrates to via test patterns. You can cheat a notch or two up or down without too much detriment, but I wouldn't use that as a general control to raise or lower lumen output on a projector! Those controls only affect specific ranges of the video signal, NOT the lamp's light output!





Craig Peer said:


> The 5040UB is hard to beat at the sale price, that's for sure. The sale ends June 3rd - just FYI.



That's right, get 'em while they're hot! PM @Craig Peer or @Mike Garrett for amazing deals and service!!!


----------



## Dave Harper

ferelen said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> 
> hope someone would be able to help me with my problem. My projector has terrible ghosting. Literally every time. Either watching movie or playing games or doing anything else. I tried almost everything. Different settings, different sources, let it warm up for an hour, different cables of quality and length. I ended up with Monoprice Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed HDMI Cable, but still the same issue. Running latest firmware v1.9.
> 
> I read almost the whole forum here, but no one is complaining about this issue. Should be some ghosting in 3D mode, but never 2D like I'm experiencing (never used 3d with this projector). Am I the only one with this issue??
> 
> On the other side, the projector is awesome, the brightness and colours are superb, but in my case almost unusable because of the ghosting effect. After few minutes of watching, my eyes hurt, so I have a feeling that something is not right with this projector.
> 
> Can you please advise, because I'm completely desperate. I previously owned two other projectors but never had a problem with such heavy ghosting before. Thanks.



Pictures would help.


----------



## AtomicInternet

*Please update Xbox One S info*

I wasn't able to find any comprehensive info on the Xbox One S and 5040UB, so I thought I'd post it here in the hopes it can be added to the top of this thread. Amazon Prime recently added 4K support to the Xbox One app, and the latest Xbox One firmware allows 10 bit 4:2:2 from the blu-ray app. Sadly, neither Netflix or Amazon Prime send HDR, only the blu-ray player currently supports it.

*Check "Allow YCC 4:2:2" in advanced video settings for the Xbox One S*

*Xbox One S Source Signals:*
Blu-ray app: 24Hz 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR
Netflix app: 60Hz 8 bit 4:2:0 BT.709 SDR
Amazon Prime:60Hz 8 bit 4:2:0 BT.709 SDR

*4K TV details screen*
*TV Resolution*
✔ Your TV supports 4K 10-bit at 24Hz.
*Watching movies & TV*
✔ Your TV supports 4K 10-bit at 24Hz.
Θ Your TV setup doesn't support 4K 10-bit at 50Hz. However, apps can use 4K 8-bit, if they support it.
Θ Your TV setup doesn't support 4K 10-bit at 60Hz. However, apps can use 4K 8-bit, if they support it.
✔ Your TV supports HDR video.
*Playing games*
Θ Your TV setup doesn't support 4K 10-bit at 60Hz. However, you can still upscale to 4K by choosing the 4K TV resolution setting.
φ Your TV setup doesn't support HDR10 for gaming. Games won't be shown in HDR.


----------



## ferelen

Dave Harper said:


> Pictures would help.


Thanks Dave. Will try to get some once I'm back home from a trip. What's the best way to capture that on a camera ?


----------



## seplant

ferelen said:


> Thanks Dave. Will try to get some once I'm back home from a trip. What's the best way to capture that on a camera ?


Just take photos with your phone camera. If the ghosting is visible to your naked eye, the camera should capture it. 

You don't by any chance have the 2D to 3D conversion setting turned on, do you? You can find that on the Signal menu under 3D Setup. If not, try toggling that setting to see if anything changes.


----------



## Dave Harper

ferelen said:


> Thanks Dave. Will try to get some once I'm back home from a trip. *What's the best way to capture that on a camera ?*


First, you point the camera at the subject matter, then you hit the shutter button............ jk, 





seplant said:


> Just take photos with your phone camera. If the ghosting is visible to your naked eye, the camera should capture it.
> 
> You don't by any chance have the 2D to 3D conversion setting turned on, do you? You can find that on the Signal menu under 3D Setup. If not, try toggling that setting to see if anything changes.


Yes, excellent suggestion seplant! :up:


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Or Planet Earth II. There's many scenes that run the gamut from awesome darks (desert night scenes!) to bright sunlight and highlights (many jungle scenes). Not to mention the spectacular sharpness, resolution and details that thing throws at you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would ONLY put brightness where it calibrates to via test patterns. You can cheat a notch or two up or down without too much detriment, but I wouldn't use that as a general control to raise or lower lumen output on a projector! Those controls only affect specific ranges of the video signal, NOT the lamp's light output!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's right, get 'em while they're hot! PM @Craig Peer or @Mike Garrett for amazing deals and service!!!


 great info dave! My calibrator said I may need a HD fury with your settings?


----------



## inspector

ferelen said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> hope someone would be able to help me with my problem. My projector has terrible ghosting. Literally every time. Either watching movie or playing games or doing anything else. I tried almost everything. Different settings, different sources, let it warm up for an hour, different cables of quality and length. I ended up with Monoprice Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed HDMI Cable, but still the same issue. Running latest firmware v1.9.
> I read almost the whole forum here, but no one is complaining about this issue. Should be some ghosting in 3D mode, but never 2D like I'm experiencing (never used 3d with this projector). Am I the only one with this issue??
> On the other side, the projector is awesome, the brightness and colours are superb, but in my case almost unusable because of the ghosting effect. After few minutes of watching, my eyes hurt, so I have a feeling that something is not right with this projector.
> Can you please advise, because I'm completely desperate. I previously owned two other projectors but never had a problem with such heavy ghosting before. Thanks.



Well, I have heard no one on this thread complain about ghosting on 2D...always 3D.


Please call Courtney @ Epson 562-981-3840 x 19014 and tell him about your problem. 


Good luck!


Inspector


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> great info dave! My calibrator said I may need a HD fury with your settings?


You only need an HDFury Linker if you're using a projector that doesn't support HDR or has no way of switching to SDR mode when it receives and HDR signal. Your 5040UB doesn't need the Linker because you can switch it into SDR mode manually and the source will still be sending the full raw HDR WCG signal, so all you need to do is switch to SDR mode and apply my settings.

For projectors like the LS10000 (and maybe BenQ X12000, although I haven't tried that one yet) you do need the Linker though, since it doesn't support HDR natively.


----------



## inspector

Dave...we're patiently waiting for the calibration settings from A to Z for 4K DIGITAL CINEMA. ..at least I am.


----------



## Dave Harper

inspector said:


> Dave...we're patiently waiting for the calibration settings from A to Z for 4K DIGITAL CINEMA. ..at least I am.


I'm actually about to walk into my theater now!


----------



## robc1976

Question guys, I got a update from xbox...then it stated "TV supports 4K resolution". I then loaded my 4K SDR Calibration settings and they look better than my 1080P settings. I thought you could only play disks in 4K on xbox1s? How is it that I am getting 4K resolution while gaming? 

So my 4K SDR settings will work with xbox1s?


----------



## Dave Harper

inspector said:


> Dave...we're patiently waiting for the calibration settings from A to Z for 4K DIGITAL CINEMA. ..at least I am.





Dave Harper said:


> I'm actually about to walk into my theater now!



I'm sorry but I got sidetracked when I learned of the horrible events in Manchester England and ended up watching news coverage with my wife all night. 

My prayers go out to everyone, especially those affected and our brothers and sisters here and on AVForums, as well as this seemingly morally lost world!


----------



## chickenbc49

ferelen said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> hope someone would be able to help me with my problem. My projector has terrible ghosting. Literally every time. Either watching movie or playing games or doing anything else. I tried almost everything. Different settings, different sources, let it warm up for an hour, different cables of quality and length. I ended up with Monoprice Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed HDMI Cable, but still the same issue. Running latest firmware v1.9.
> I read almost the whole forum here, but no one is complaining about this issue. Should be some ghosting in 3D mode, but never 2D like I'm experiencing (never used 3d with this projector). Am I the only one with this issue??
> On the other side, the projector is awesome, the brightness and colours are superb, but in my case almost unusable because of the ghosting effect. After few minutes of watching, my eyes hurt, so I have a feeling that something is not right with this projector.
> Can you please advise, because I'm completely desperate. I previously owned two other projectors but never had a problem with such heavy ghosting before. Thanks.



Hi ! 

I have exactly the same problem in 2D ( never try 3D on it ), 

i try any modes/options , it's alway disturb me , it's like a persitence of images .

i try to move projector to using less the lens shift , but same effect .

i have a EU version of this projector TW9300 in v1.9 ( i'm french, sory for my english ) .

If you have some informations from Epson , can you give me your feedback please ?


----------



## ferelen

chickenbc49 said:


> Hi !
> 
> I have exactly the same problem in 2D ( never try 3D on it ),
> 
> i try any modes/options , it's alway disturb me , it's like a persitence of images .
> 
> i try to move projector to using less the lens shift , but same effect .
> 
> i have a EU version of this projector TW9300 in v1.9 ( i'm french, sory for my english ) .
> 
> If you have some informations from Epson , can you give me your feedback please ?


Hi chickenbc49

I live in UK and also have the EU version TW9300 in v1.9. I already contacted Epson and was communicating with one of the online support engineer. Currently they are reviewing my case and data I sent them. When I have some info, will let you know. Looks to me that only EU versions are having this issue. Could be early batches, maybe with some flaws. I bought mine early January this year.


----------



## robc1976

Anyone here tweak there Harper vision settings?  Anyone here use the HDR slider via the UB900? 

I have found the following to be the best

Brightness I raised from 46 to 51
HDR slider +2

I know some say the slider crushes black level but they still look great and without its just to dark for me. I tested this on a darker movie "assassins creed" so will be testing this out on brighter movie very soon..


----------



## robc1976

Anyone here tweak there Harper vision settings? Anyone here use the HDR slider via the UB900? 

I have found the following to be the best

Brightness I raised from 46 to 51
HDR slider +2

I know some say the slider crushes black level but they still look great and without its just to dark for me. I tested this on a darker movie "assassins creed" so will be testing this out on brighter movie very soon..


----------



## robc1976

What tab is firmware update?


----------



## taylor34

Dave Harper said:


> That's right, get 'em while they're hot! PM @Craig Peer or @Mike Garrett for amazing deals and service!!!


Aren't Epson projectors stuck at the advertised price? That's what I was told when I inquired before, so like nobody has a better deal than anyone else.


----------



## ayrton

taylor34 said:


> Aren't Epson projectors stuck at the advertised price? That's what I was told when I inquired before, so like nobody has a better deal than anyone else.


I can speak for Craig. He personally helped me select all my projector setup. Invited me to his home to get a professional Demo. I know Craig does a lot to help members out.

I purchased all my gear through Craig and AVS. I appreciate the "Expert" advice.

So, if price is a "push" I would buy through AVS.


----------



## Dave Harper

taylor34 said:


> Aren't Epson projectors stuck at the advertised price? That's what I was told when I inquired before, so like nobody has a better deal than anyone else.


Yes, but there's more to a "great deal" than just the money spent. 





ayrton said:


> I can speak for Craig. He personally helped me select all my projector setup. Invited me to his home to get a professional Demo. I know Craig does a lot to help members out.
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased all my gear through Craig and AVS. I appreciate the "Expert" advice.
> 
> 
> 
> So, if price is a "push" I would buy through AVS.



Yeah, what he said. To me, "amazing deal" includes the quality of service you get, and both @Craig Peer and @Mike Garrett from AVS offer that in spades!


----------



## Schuyler Bain

Dave Harper said:


> Ok. Mines a 1.3 gain Stewart StudioTek 130 so it'll be a tad brighter.


I'm trying to decide between micorperf ST130 or CIMA Neve to pair with my 5040UB. Is your ST130 an "AT" material and was the CIMA line available when you made your purchase? These screens seems very similar on paper, but the CIMA is much more affordable.


----------



## LumensLover

impetigo said:


> I just joined the club as the 5040ub went back on the $2499 sale. I got mine from Adorama but it's at that price at all the dealers. It'll be replacing my old ae8000u. Can't wait!


Adorama does not charge sales tax while many other online authorized sellers do. Big advantage there.


----------



## chickenbc49

ferelen said:


> Hi chickenbc49
> 
> I live in UK and also have the EU version TW9300 in v1.9. I already contacted Epson and was communicating with one of the online support engineer. Currently they are reviewing my case and data I sent them. When I have some info, will let you know. Looks to me that only EU versions are having this issue. Could be early batches, maybe with some flaws. I bought mine early January this year.


Hi! , it would be cool to share your epson 's feedback ( if you have one  ) .

i try to re update my TW9300 with the same FW , nothing change .

i juste see than with 4k 'ON' the ghosting is amplified .
i try with nvidia shield , xbox one S , PC, through AV amplifier ( and without) but this persistance is always here ... .

i' am very desapointed , i will call French Epson's support tomorow , i keep you informed .


----------



## Sundodger

robc1976 said:


> its Bette than the sony and phillips imho


What is it that makes one player superior to another? (aside from things like the Panny slider that has been discussed here). 

Is there are big difference in image quality or are we talking about features?

I am also a gamer so am leaning towards the Xbox One S, and I'm aware of the 60hz 4k streaming limitations, but curious if disc playback is "worse" than dedicated players?


----------



## robc1976

Sundodger said:


> What is it that makes one player superior to another? (aside from things like the Panny slider that has been discussed here).
> 
> Is there are big difference in image quality or are we talking about features?
> 
> I am also a gamer so am leaning towards the Xbox One S, and I'm aware of the 60hz 4k streaming limitations, but curious if disc playback is "worse" than dedicated players?


I have all 3

1. Build quality, ud900 is gorgeous! 
2. The sony remote is a joke, not even back lit
3. Image is better, inmho. More accurate with ub900
4. Sound is the most important thing to me and the ub900 has a great audio menu
5. Menu, the ub900 menu is done very well, easy to navigate and a lot more customizable. Its just flat out a superior unit.


----------



## seplant

chickenbc49 said:


> Hi! , it would be cool to share your epson 's feedback ( if you have one  ) .
> 
> i try to re update my TW9300 with the same FW , nothing change .
> 
> i juste see than with 4k 'ON' the ghosting is amplified .
> i try with nvidia shield , xbox one S , PC, through AV amplifier ( and without) but this persistance is always here ... .
> 
> i' am very desapointed , i will call French Epson's support tomorow , i keep you informed .


Did you verify that the 2D to 3D conversion is not switched on under the Signal > 3D Settings menu?


----------



## Dave Harper

Schuyler Bain said:


> I'm trying to decide between micorperf ST130 or CIMA Neve to pair with my 5040UB. Is your ST130 an "AT" material and was the CIMA line available when you made your purchase? These screens seems very similar on paper, but the CIMA is much more affordable.


My ST130 is the original from way back when I was using, installing and calibrating CRT projectors. It is not AT. It is still in great shape.


----------



## Seegs108

robc1976 said:


> I have all 3
> 
> 1. Build quality, ud900 is gorgeous!
> 2. The sony remote is a joke, not even back lit
> 3. Image is better, inmho. More accurate with ub900
> 4. Sound is the most important thing to me and the ub900 has a great audio menu
> 5. Menu, the ub900 menu is done very well, easy to navigate and a lot more customizable. Its just flat out a superior unit.


If people can afford it, the UB900 I think is by far the best well rounded player and offers a TON of value. Panasonic also seems to be regularly adding new features via firmware which is a huge plus. I'm glad they haven't abandoned it like some manufacturers do with their players.


----------



## impetigo

LumensLover said:


> Adorama does not charge sales tax while many other online authorized sellers do. Big advantage there.


Yep, I use Adorama in general for electronics/photo due to no sales tax, the best return policy (no restocking fee like B&H), no annoying religious holiday schedule (B&H), faster shipping than B&H oftentimes, and the rewards credits (like Ebay Bucks) you get for buying stuff there.


----------



## robc1976

Seegs108 said:


> If people can afford it, the UB900 I think is by far the best well rounded player and offers a TON of value. Panasonic also seems to be regularly adding new features via firmware which is a huge plus. I'm glad they haven't abandoned it like some manufacturers do with their players.


100% correct, for the money you get a lot, look at this thing!


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Something must not be right. The one thing with this is that it brings back SDR type tones and brightness, yet keeps the image with many HDR attributes in tact, unlike tone mapping and stripping HDR in the player.
> 
> You're starting to sound like a good candidate for DLP or something. You want a light cannon! Are you paying attention to black levels at all?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome and thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how. It's designed to work with the bt2020 wide color gamut filter of Digital Cinema Mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, glad you like it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm about to drop updated settings with CMS if I ever get more time from work and just stop feeling so under the weather. Whatever I had a couple weeks ago knocked me down a few pegs and I just don't have the stamina yet after I get home from a long day's work. Sorry guys!
> 
> It is very good with CMS at 50 to start with. Make sure to write your calibrated settings down!
> 
> P.S. - I just did back to back shows, one with NBA Legend Lenny Wilkins, and then the one that just finished featured Terry Bradshaw. So cool!


Dave, your right...something wasn't right lol! It was the movie that was dark! I watched Logan with your settings and it was jaw dropping, the detail, the black levels are just insane and its NOT to dark.

I didn't realize until end of movie that I did have +1 on HDR slider and brightnes was 51 instead of 46. So with HDR slider at 0 your black levels would have been better if that is possible?!!? I doubt brightness being up a couple notches hurt anything.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Dave, your right...something wasn't right lol! It was the movie that was dark! I watched Logan with your settings and it was jaw dropping, the detail, the black levels are just insane and its NOT to dark.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize until end of movie that I did have +1 on HDR slider and brightnes was 51 instead of 46. So with HDR slider at 0 your black levels would have been better if that is possible?!!? I doubt brightness being up a couple notches hurt anything.



Great to hear and thanks for the update! 

Yes brightness is one of the settings that will vary based on your environment so if 51 or so is where the black level test pattern works for you, then that's where it should be. 

The settings that I've dropped are just a baseline, meant for the user to use as a starting point, but to tweak slightly from there to their room and specific equipment.


----------



## philipbtz

I have the UB 700 and I find that the HDR brightness slighter mostly only washes out the image. But the Harpervision settings are insane. I knew this projector had the capability and now it's unlocked. I ended up setting brightness to 50 since it seems to work better in my room. Haven't quite dialed in the saturation yet but it's in the low 70's now. Otherwise I've set the next to last gamma point to 15 instead of 16 as recommended. The picture is insane. I haven't seen any other projector at any price point give an HDR image like this(but none of the retailers are setting up custom gamma curves etc. for any of the projectors so it's probably possible to get a stellar image there too).


----------



## Lesmor

robc1976 said:


> is the projector in a very dark room? This is for 1080P correct?


Sorry missed this as for some reason I don't get notifications from AVS even though it is enabled.

Yes a dark room 1080P REC.709 settings


----------



## ferelen

chickenbc49 said:


> Hi! , it would be cool to share your epson 's feedback ( if you have one  ) .
> 
> i try to re update my TW9300 with the same FW , nothing change .
> 
> i juste see than with 4k 'ON' the ghosting is amplified .
> i try with nvidia shield , xbox one S , PC, through AV amplifier ( and without) but this persistance is always here ... .
> 
> i' am very desapointed , i will call French Epson's support tomorow , i keep you informed .


Hi,

Epson support replied to me that because the projector is in the warranty, they are ok to swap/fix. I'm going to replace it for a new a one then. I hope the new one will be ok. 



seplant said:


> Did you verify that the 2D to 3D conversion is not switched on under the Signal > 3D Settings menu?


It's off. Doesn't look like it is a 3D setting issue.


----------



## panman40

So is anyone comparing Dave's Digital cinema Harpervision settings with Thier pro calibrated HDR settings ?, Just wondering which you prefer ?.


----------



## chickenbc49

ferelen said:


> Hi,
> 
> Epson support replied to me that because the projector is in the warranty, they are ok to swap/fix. I'm going to replace it for a new a one then. I hope the new one will be ok.
> 
> 
> It's off. Doesn't look like it is a 3D setting issue.



I call Epson french 's support , i need to send them the projector to check it ... . take 2 weeks or more to check it .

support's guy say me than the TW9300 and 5040ub have little hardware's différences .

keep in touch .


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> Sorry missed this as for some reason I don't get notifications from AVS even though it is enabled.
> 
> Yes a dark room 1080P REC.709 settings


 awesome! These will work for me, my room is completely dark.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> So is anyone comparing Dave's Digital cinema Harpervision settings with Thier pro calibrated HDR settings ?, Just wondering which you prefer ?.


 Harper hands down


----------



## robc1976

philipbtz said:


> I have the UB 700 and I find that the HDR brightness slighter mostly only washes out the image. But the Harpervision settings are insane. I knew this projector had the capability and now it's unlocked. I ended up setting brightness to 50 since it seems to work better in my room. Haven't quite dialed in the saturation yet but it's in the low 70's now. Otherwise I've set the next to last gamma point to 15 instead of 16 as recommended. The picture is insane. I haven't seen any other projector at any price point give an HDR image like this(but none of the retailers are setting up custom gamma curves etc. for any of the projectors so it's probably possible to get a stellar image there too).


 exatly my thoughts also


----------



## Umar_Naseer

Could someone please write out the Harpervision settings? Thanks.


----------



## Viche

Dave Harper said:


> Great to hear and thanks for the update!
> 
> Yes brightness is one of the settings that will vary based on your environment so if 51 or so is where the black level test pattern works for you, then that's where it should be.
> 
> The settings that I've dropped are just a baseline, meant for the user to use as a starting point, but to tweak slightly from there to their room and specific equipment.



Dave, if you have started a new thread about Harpervision settings, can you please add the link to your signature? 

Also, the only thing that concerns me about your settings is the high lamp setting. That brings lamp life from 5000 down to 3500 hours. So how many hours is the bulb really good for in order to produce a decent Harpervision picture? And what does a replacement cost? $299? Any way to get it cheaper? Like can you just buy the bulb and not the entire lamp housing?


----------



## Bob Sorel

> If people can afford it, the UB900 I think is by far the best well rounded player and offers a TON of value. Panasonic also seems to be regularly adding new features via firmware which is a huge plus. I'm glad they haven't abandoned it like some manufacturers do with their players.


How about playback of SACD and DVDA discs? I want one player that will play any disc I throw into it, so I _think_ that limits me to the Sony (which has 4k HDCP 2.2 passthrough issues) and the Oppo, unless Panasonic will support DVDA and SACD in the future.


----------



## philipbtz

Umar_Naseer said:


> Could someone please write out the Harpervision settings? Thanks.


Digital Cinema, Brightness: 50(tune this to your room), Contrast: 100, Color Saturation 74(tune), Lamp: ECO(tune), Auto Iris: High Speed, Manual iris: 0, Dynamic Range SDR, Color space:auto, Custom gamma 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 15, 32

And make sure you are getting a BT2020 HDR signal!


----------



## Umar_Naseer

Cool! Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk


----------



## Hellohowareyou

One problem with the Panasonic UHD player is the media file player. If you are using a usb stick, the Sony X-800 will be able to play much more media types than the Panasonic UB900 can. Anyone suggesting that I buy a Roku or other such player, must understand that the HDCP 2.2 compliant HDMI ports on many receivers are not too many, and so a player that can combine many features in one are much more enticing to many people.


----------



## Natrix1973

Viche said:


> Dave, if you have started a new thread about Harpervision settings, can you please add the link to your signature?
> 
> Also, the only thing that concerns me about your settings is the high lamp setting. That brings lamp life from 5000 down to 3500 hours. So how many hours is the bulb really good for in order to produce a decent Harpervision picture? And what does a replacement cost? $299? Any way to get it cheaper? Like can you just buy the bulb and not the entire lamp housing?


I find that the Harpervision settings are usually plenty bright for me even in ECO mode but usually run Medium for a darker movie. I am projecting from about 18 feet away to a 130" 16x9 DIY spandex screen in my less than optimal living room setting.


----------



## Viche

Natrix1973 said:


> I find that the Harpervision settings are usually plenty bright for me even in ECO mode but usually run Medium for a darker movie. I am projecting from about 18 feet away to a 130" 16x9 DIY spandex screen in my less than optimal living room setting.


So on medium you get 4000 hours. How old is your bulb right now? Have you passed the initial bright stage yet?


----------



## Natrix1973

Viche said:


> So on medium you get 4000 hours. How old is your bulb right now? Have you passed the initial bright stage yet?


No, I only have about 50 hours on it right now.


----------



## Joe.Swirls

With the 5040UB's HDMI chipset, is it possible to stream 4K HDR shows on netflix/amazon or does that require the 18GBPS that the projector doesn't have?


----------



## philipbtz

Joe.Swirls said:


> With the 5040UB's HDMI chipset, is it possible to stream 4K HDR shows on netflix/amazon or does that require the 18GBPS that the projector doesn't have?


Run the apps from an Nvidia Shield and set the output to 24Hz and it's possible yes. Or you can use an HDFury Linker. I have both just to be safe  What's annoying about the Shield is that you will have to manually set the resolution, colorspace and refresh rate depending upon what you are watching. The good thing is that you can actually do that.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Great to hear and thanks for the update!
> 
> Yes brightness is one of the settings that will vary based on your environment so if 51 or so is where the black level test pattern works for you, then that's where it should be.
> 
> The settings that I've dropped are just a baseline, meant for the user to use as a starting point, but to tweak slightly from there to their room and specific equipment.


my buddy was shocked a picture that good could come from a protector that cost less than his lens lol!


----------



## twcl

Joe.Swirls said:


> With the 5040UB's HDMI chipset, is it possible to stream 4K HDR shows on netflix/amazon or does that require the 18GBPS that the projector doesn't have?


With Xbox One S and newest updates I can confirm UHD HDR with Amazon. Netflix not supported so far.


----------



## robc1976

twcl said:


> With Xbox One S and newest updates I can confirm UHD HDR with Amazon. Netflix not supported so far.


 am I correct saying you can get 4K sdr resolution "gaming" on xbox 1s? That's what I believe I am getting.


----------



## bommai

Bob Sorel said:


> How about playback of SACD and DVDA discs? I want one player that will play any disc I throw into it, so I _think_ that limits me to the Sony (which has 4k HDCP 2.2 passthrough issues) and the Oppo, unless Panasonic will support DVDA and SACD in the future.



Sony x800 is the cheapest universal player so far. Mine is coming tomorrow. Excited!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> Here are @panman40 SDR settings
> His screen and ambient light will be different from most members but it is a starting point
> Also you should use a calibration disc to do your own brightness and contrast setting
> 
> Software Version
> 6Z0076648RWWV109
> Rec.709 SDR
> 
> [Image]
> Colour Mode Natural
> Brightness 51
> Contrast 46
> Colour Saturation 50
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 6
> Thin Line Thickness Enhancement	default
> Thick Line Thickness Enhancement	default
> 
> 
> Colour Temp 6500
> Customized
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 50
> Offset B 48
> Gain R 55
> Gain G 50
> Gain B 47
> Frame Interpolation	Off
> 
> [Image Enhancement]
> 4K Enhancement
> Image Preset mode	2 or 3
> Noise reduction Default
> MPEG Noise reduction	Default
> [Super-Resolution]	Default
> [Detail Enhancement]
> Advanced
> Gamma
> 0
> Colour Tone 1
> Colour Tone 2
> Colour Tone 3
> Colour Tone 4
> Colour Tone 5
> Colour Tone 6
> Colour Tone 7
> Colour Tone 8
> Colour Tone 9
> 
> CMS [RGBCMY]
> *Red*
> Hue 48
> Saturation 58
> Brightness 38
> *Green*
> Hue 49
> Saturation 44
> Brightness 53
> *BLue*
> Hue 41
> Saturation 53
> Brightness 42
> *Cyan*
> Hue 46
> Saturation 46
> Brightness 51
> *Magenta*
> Hue 48
> Saturation 50
> Brightness 44
> *Yellow*
> Hue 50
> Saturation 42
> Brightness 57
> 
> Deinterlaced	Blanked
> Epson Superwhite On
> Lens Iris -20
> 
> Power Consumption (Lamp) Eco
> Auto Iris	Off
> Reset
> 
> [Signal]
> HDMI Video Range	Auto
> Colour Space Default
> Dynamic Range Default
> Image Processing	Default


few questions, inputing these settings 

Color tone 1-9 cant find those? 
Deinterlaced	Blanked (mine is not blanked, says film/auto)

Are these correct

HDMI Video Range	Auto (mine is blanked out)	
Colour Space Default (mine says BT.709)
Dynamic Range Default (mine says SDR)
Image Processing	Default (mine says fine)

Thanks man, really looking forward to these settings!


----------



## Dave Harper

philipbtz said:


> I have the UB 700 and I find that the HDR brightness slighter mostly only washes out the image. But the Harpervision settings are insane. I knew this projector had the capability and now it's unlocked. I ended up setting brightness to 50 since it seems to work better in my room. Haven't quite dialed in the saturation yet but it's in the low 70's now. Otherwise I've set the next to last gamma point to 15 instead of 16 as recommended. The picture is insane. I haven't seen any other projector at any price point give an HDR image like this(but none of the retailers are setting up custom gamma curves etc. for any of the projectors so it's probably possible to get a stellar image there too).


I know, right! Thanks! 




panman40 said:


> So is anyone comparing Dave's Digital cinema Harpervision settings with Thier pro calibrated HDR settings ?, Just wondering which you prefer ?.


Well, the best thing is to ISF/THX Pro calibrate it AND use my settings on top of the grayscale and CMS calibrations!




robc1976 said:


> Harper hands down


That's good to hear, cuz I'm used to hearing _"Harper....hands up!"_ when the cops bust me!  




Umar_Naseer said:


> Could someone please write out the Harpervision settings? Thanks.





philipbtz said:


> Digital Cinema, Brightness: 50(tune this to your room), Contrast: 100, Color Saturation 74(tune), Lamp: ECO(tune), Auto Iris: High Speed, Manual iris: 0, Dynamic Range SDR, Color space:auto, Custom gamma 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 15, 32
> 
> And make sure you are getting a BT2020 HDR signal!


Looks like philipbtz has taken care of you. Let me know if you have any questions.



Viche said:


> Dave, if you have started a new thread about Harpervision settings, can you please add the link to your signature?
> 
> Also, the only thing that concerns me about your settings is the high lamp setting. That brings lamp life from 5000 down to 3500 hours. So how many hours is the bulb really good for in order to produce a decent Harpervision picture? And what does a replacement cost? $299? Any way to get it cheaper? Like can you just buy the bulb and not the entire lamp housing?


Sorry, I haven't started a thread solely about HarperVision settings. Maybe I should though? My signature was removed because I linked and mentioned the Epson 5040 and LS10000, as well as the JVC RS600 I am selling, all tweaked with HarperVision and ISF Calibrated. I will make a new one with the links again.




Viche said:


> So on medium you get 4000 hours. How old is your bulb right now? Have you passed the initial bright stage yet?


Remember, you only have to use HIGH fan when you play UHD HDR movies. You can leave it on MEDIUM or ECO for all other sources, so that won't affect your total hours much at all, unless you're a UHD HDR hound? 



Joe.Swirls said:


> With the 5040UB's HDMI chipset, is it possible to stream 4K HDR shows on netflix/amazon or does that require the 18GBPS that the projector doesn't have?


Yes, I agree, use an nVidia Shield .


----------



## Bob Sorel

> ...that limits me to the Sony (which has 4k HDCP 2.2 passthrough issues)


After bringing an X800 to Best Buy today to test its HDCP 2.2 passthrough, we discovered that the X800 was fine...nothing wrong with this sample of X800...


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I know, right! Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, the best thing is to ISF/THX Pro calibrate it AND use my settings on top of the grayscale and CMS calibrations!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's good to hear, cuz I'm used to hearing _"Harper....hands up!"_ when the cops bust me!


lol! 

Dave, so I had my display calibrated but he did 4K SDR digital cinema, would it be best to use his RGBYCM calibration settings?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> lol!
> 
> Dave, so I had my display calibrated but he did 4K SDR digital cinema, would it be best to use his RGBYCM calibration settings?


Did he send SDR or HDR into that 4K SDR mode that he calibrated? If just SDR, then those CMS settings won't translate over properly.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Did he send SDR or HDR into that 4K SDR mode that he calibrated? If just SDR, then those CMS settings won't translate over properly.


I bet he didn't, he used signal from BD player to a signal generator (I am new this). Its is 2020 color space.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I bet he didn't, he used signal from BD player to a signal generator (I am new this). Its is 2020 color space.


A regular BD player won't do BT2020, only a UHD one will, playing a UHD disc or file too. What player was it? So he was sending SDR BT2020, so stripped HDR? That "Signal Generator" you mention was probably an HDFury device to strip HDR. Was it black and gold colored?


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> A regular BD player won't do BT2020, only a UHD one will, playing a UHD disc or file too. What player was it? So he was sending SDR BT2020, so stripped HDR? That "Signal Generator" you mention was probably an HDFury device to strip HDR. Was it black and gold colored?


it was a Sony x800 at the time...I got this out of theater fast lol! No back lit remote! I got Ud900.

It was a black box, he sent a signal to it then used HDMI cable that went to my BD player and plugged it into box.


----------



## Sundodger

robc1976 said:


> am I correct saying you can get 4K sdr resolution "gaming" on xbox 1s? That's what I believe I am getting.


You can't get 4k resolution on the Xbox 1s, that will come with Scorpio (we think). However, (in addition to the upscaling) you should be able to be able to get HDR on select games. 

That is actually one of my questions for 5040 and Xbox 1S owners - are you receiving an HDR signal from select games too?

http://www.ign.com/wikis/xbox-one/List_of_Xbox_One_S_HDR_Compatible_Games


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> it was a Sony x800 at the time...I got this out of theater fast lol! No back lit remote! I got Ud900.
> 
> It was a black box, he sent a signal to it then used HDMI cable that went to my BD player and plugged it into box.


OK, that's probably a 3D LUT box for CMS calibrations then.



Sundodger said:


> You can't get 4k resolution on the Xbox 1s, that will come with Scorpio (we think). However, (in addition to the upscaling) you should be able to be able to get HDR on select games.
> 
> That is actually one of my questions for 5040 and Xbox 1S owners - are you receiving an HDR signal from select games too?
> 
> http://www.ign.com/wikis/xbox-one/List_of_Xbox_One_S_HDR_Compatible_Games


I believe you can get 4K resolution from the XB1S, the limitation is whether you can do 60p and HDR. I think it sends 4K SDR 8 bit on the 5040/6040.


----------



## Sundodger

Sorry, I meant that you the XB1S doesn't delivery 4k *gaming *- it does for blu-ray discs. I should have been more specific. 
I'll be doing some more testing on it soon, but from what I've read in this giant thread:

It DOES
- play 4k/HDR discs
- play HDR Netflix
- play 4k/HDR Amazon
- play HDR games (select titles)

Does NOT
- play 4k Netflix (due to 60hz issue)
- play 4k games (not currently offered in this console for any display device)

Like I said, I haven't done my own testing, just research. I should have it set up next week to play with though.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> OK, that's probably a 3D LUT box for CMS calibrations then.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe you can get 4K resolution from the XB1S, the limitation is whether you can do 60p and HDR. I think it sends 4K SDR 8 bit on the 5040/6040.


 thank God, I thought something was wrong lol! It says 4K resolution with SDR while gaming


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> it was a Sony x800 at the time...I got this out of theater fast lol! No back lit remote! I got Ud900.
> 
> It was a black box, he sent a signal to it then used HDMI cable that went to my BD player and plugged it into box.


Why not contact your calibrator and ask for charts and picture settings info, sounds as if you've swapped out the player and added tweaks on top of his settings so might be worth re entering them, in theory what your calibrator did and charged you for should be more accurate than copying anyone's settings.


----------



## Sundodger

I hope I'm wrong, but articles like this from Business Insider led me to believe the first true Xbox 4k gaming will come with Scorpio:

"The Xbox One S supports 4K/UltraHD, too, but only for movie playback from specially-marked Blu-Ray discs, not for games. That said, it does support high-dynamic range, or HDR, a technology for displaying super-vivid colors that Business Insider's own Antonio Villas-Boas thinks is actually better and more noticeable than UltraHD."

Source - http://www.businessinsider.com/microsoft-project-scorpio-vs-xbox-one-s-2017-4


----------



## robc1976

Sundodger said:


> I hope I'm wrong, but articles like this from Business Insider led me to believe the first true Xbox 4k gaming will come with Scorpio:
> 
> "The Xbox One S supports 4K/UltraHD, too, but only for movie playback from specially-marked Blu-Ray discs, not for games. That said, it does support high-dynamic range, or HDR, a technology for displaying super-vivid colors that Business Insider's own Antonio Villas-Boas thinks is actually better and more noticeable than UltraHD."
> 
> Source - http://www.businessinsider.com/microsoft-project-scorpio-vs-xbox-one-s-2017-4


why is it when I am playing assassins creed syndicate I go to projector info and it shows 4:2:0 3820 X 2160 BT 709 SDR? 

Only reason I want to know is to know what calibration file to use (4K SDR or 1080P)


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Why not contact your calibrator and ask for charts and picture settings info, sounds as if you've swapped out the player and added tweaks on top of his settings so might be worth re entering them, in theory what your calibrator did and charged you for should be more accurate than copying anyone's settings.


my calibrator never calibrated for HDR to SDR so I am using daves settings for uhd because it blows away the HDR calibration. Partly my fault because I requested HDR to be in "bright cinema". I was then wondering if I could use my calibrators settings with daves SDR to HDR settings but seems I can't. My 1080P calibration was done in cinema and I think I like natural mode better so needed something until he gets back in town so was going to use settings posted above.

He calibrated for

4K HDR 
4K SDR
1080P


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> why is it when i am playing assassins creed syndicate i go to projector info and it shows 4:2:0 3820 x 2160 bt 709 sdr?
> 
> Only reason i want to know is to know what calibration file to use (4k sdr or 1080p)


4k sdr


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> 4k sdr


 with gaming correct dave?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> with gaming correct dave?


You're asking the wrong person about gaming sir! But it shouldn't matter, if the source is as you say and is 4K SDR rec709, then you want to put it in the calibrated 4K SDR mode that he created...game, movie or otherwise.


----------



## robc1976

bommai said:


> Sony x800 is the cheapest universal player so far. Mine is coming tomorrow. Excited!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


its a great player unless in dark theater, no back lit remote. Other than that its awesome


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> You're asking the wrong person about gaming sir! But it shouldn't matter, if the source is as you say and is 4K SDR rec709, then you want to put it in the calibrated 4K SDR mode that he created...game, movie or otherwise.


 that ecplains why it looks better with 4K SDR calibration


----------



## impetigo

robc1976 said:


> that ecplains why it looks better with 4K SDR calibration


So I installed my new 5040ub that came today (a day early even via UPS) and I like it a lot so far... except for one issue. In my finished basement where I have my 5040 set up, I have the projector installed not directly on the ceiling but on a lower section that heating duct travels through. The duct part isn't important except that it means the PJ is located only 2' above our heads when we sit on the coach where we watch movies from. With the AE8000U I found the high pitched whining noise to be annoying and the 5040ub is much quieter on eco mode, and no high pitched noise. 

Awesome so far... at least when I'm streaming video from my Amazon Fire TV or Apple TV. But when I play a blu-ray disk from my Oppo BDP-103 or my PS3 there is a significantly noticeable sound (or "tone" perhaps is a better way to describe it as it is not just a whining fan type, white noise, but has a bit of a pitch) that continues for as long as the disk is playing. It happened with two different sources so it's probably not due to the source but more likely due to the 5040ub. All sources go through my Yamaha receiver. I suspect that even if the PJ was 5-6' above our heads we would still hear it as it's quite noticeable and intrusive. 

Anyone have a similar experience or have any thoughts? I bought it from Adorama, luckily, who has a good return policy (only Amazon is better really), but hate to return it as I otherwise really like it, especially the convenience of lens shift and zoom memory).


----------



## xpl0sive

Hi Guys,

I will be getting one of these pretty soon. Is the Panasonic UB900 still considered the best UHD player for this projector? I was going to get an Oppo 203 to pair with it but managed to pickup a Panasonic UB900 on sale for a fraction of the cost of an Oppo. Just wondering if I made the right choice.


----------



## philipbtz

xpl0sive said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I will be getting one of these pretty soon. Is the Panasonic UB900 still considered the best UHD player for this projector? I was going to get an Oppo 203 to pair with it but managed to pickup a Panasonic UB900 on sale for a fraction of the cost of an Oppo. Just wondering if I made the right choice.


You made the right choice. Probably the best player for any projector since it'll be years until Dolby Vision.


----------



## robc1976

impetigo said:


> So I installed my new 5040ub that came today (a day early even via UPS) and I like it a lot so far... except for one issue. In my finished basement where I have my 5040 set up, I have the projector installed not directly on the ceiling but on a lower section that heating duct travels through. The duct part isn't important except that it means the PJ is located only 2' above our heads when we sit on the coach where we watch movies from. With the AE8000U I found the high pitched whining noise to be annoying and the 5040ub is much quieter on eco mode, and no high pitched noise.
> 
> Awesome so far... at least when I'm streaming video from my Amazon Fire TV or Apple TV. But when I play a blu-ray disk from my Oppo BDP-103 or my PS3 there is a significantly noticeable sound (or "tone" perhaps is a better way to describe it as it is not just a whining fan type, white noise, but has a bit of a pitch) that continues for as long as the disk is playing. It happened with two different sources so it's probably not due to the source but more likely due to the 5040ub. All sources go through my Yamaha receiver. I suspect that even if the PJ was 5-6' above our heads we would still hear it as it's quite noticeable and intrusive.
> 
> Anyone have a similar experience or have any thoughts? I bought it from Adorama, luckily, who has a good return policy (only Amazon is better really), but hate to return it as I otherwise really like it, especially the convenience of lens shift and zoom memory).


 mine is 2ft above my head in "high" and I don't even hear it.


----------



## dholmes54

robc1976 said:


> dave here are my settings, everything look correct?


I've been gone a while & I'm confused, why does it say dynamic range SDR & color format 2020 HDR as a final result?


----------



## impetigo

robc1976 said:


> mine is 2ft above my head in "high" and I don't even hear it.


Oh... that probably means you have some hearing impairment! High fan is fairly loud from that close, but it's not a terrible fan noise. 

The noise that bothers me isn't the fan noise (which is totally fine and not intrusive in ECO mode and reasonable in medium), and only comes on when I play a blu-ray disk from either my Oppo or PS3 and doesn't stop until I stop the disk. It's definitely coming from the projector and didn't happen with either of my prior PJs (AE8000U and Sony AW15). It's like a humming noise that is quite noticeable except during parts with loud audio. I'll try to make a recording and post it here to see what folks think.


----------



## robc1976

impetigo said:


> Oh... that probably means you have some hearing impairment! High fan is fairly loud from that close, but it's not a terrible fan noise.
> 
> The noise that bothers me isn't the fan noise (which is totally fine and not intrusive in ECO mode and reasonable in medium), and only comes on when I play a blu-ray disk from either my Oppo or PS3 and doesn't stop until I stop the disk. It's definitely coming from the projector and didn't happen with either of my prior PJs (AE8000U and Sony AW15). It's like a humming noise that is quite noticeable except during parts with loud audio. I'll try to make a recording and post it here to see what folks think.


I have high and low frequency absorption on 3 sides of my projector (highly treated room), with out that I can hear it but at the level I listen at I can not hear it at all. I listen to all movies and games at reference level. With the projector close to the celing like most of us have it mounted you will be hearing the reflection of the sound. If there is a very quite scene I can hear it but it has never bothered me. People in my front row sitting next to me didn't even realize it was above them. Absorbtion (not foam crap unless very thick) will almost eliminate the sound to less than 3-5db tested with my mic at ear level. With out absorbtion it wss 23-26db 


A buzzing sound I would hear and drive me crazy lol


----------



## robc1976

impetigo said:


> Oh... that probably means you have some hearing impairment! High fan is fairly loud from that close, but it's not a terrible fan noise.
> 
> The noise that bothers me isn't the fan noise (which is totally fine and not intrusive in ECO mode and reasonable in medium), and only comes on when I play a blu-ray disk from either my Oppo or PS3 and doesn't stop until I stop the disk. It's definitely coming from the projector and didn't happen with either of my prior PJs (AE8000U and Sony AW15). It's like a humming noise that is quite noticeable except during parts with loud audio. I'll try to make a recording and post it here to see what folks think.


 do you have your projector plugged directly into a wall? Maybe try plugging it into a very good surge protector, may have dirty power (common) and its creating a buzz.


----------



## robc1976

impetigo said:


> Oh... that probably means you have some hearing impairment! High fan is fairly loud from that close, but it's not a terrible fan noise.
> 
> The noise that bothers me isn't the fan noise (which is totally fine and not intrusive in ECO mode and reasonable in medium), and only comes on when I play a blu-ray disk from either my Oppo or PS3 and doesn't stop until I stop the disk. It's definitely coming from the projector and didn't happen with either of my prior PJs (AE8000U and Sony AW15). It's like a humming noise that is quite noticeable except during parts with loud audio. I'll try to make a recording and post it here to see what folks think.


I take that back, its 5ft above my head lol!


----------



## ayrton

robc1976 said:


> its a great player unless in dark theater, no back lit remote. Other than that its awesome


I use a cheepo LED flashlight from Amazon!


----------



## jjwinterberg

morty343 said:


> I can tell you my new 5040UB is doing the same thing, that is it's making the quiet (but noticeable) 419Hz hum/"coil whine" when 4K enhancement is processing a 60p signal. Running at medium power consumption. (Yes the hum is easily drowned out by audio track but it can be heard, in addition to fan, during quiet passages.) Goes away when 4K enhancement is turned off or when processing 24p. PJ was delivered on 3/30 and it has about 15 hours on it at this point. I updated to the latest firmware and the problem persists.
> 
> Not sure if the problem is rare or common, but I'm wondering if I got a lemon. The auto iris also makes the quiet "disk drive" sound when in normal or high speed mode, heard when fast-forwarding through commercials etc.
> 
> I won't name the vendor who sold it to me, but I can say I was surprised when it arrived and the outer box had the big smile on the side (if you know what I mean) because that's not the vendor I ordered it from. I also ordered two pairs of the $20 Samsung SSG-3300CR glasses from the seller, they arrived today and they looked like they had been previously opened (although the lens protective film and everything else looked factory original). The rechargeable batteries in both pairs are shot. They blink green like fully charged, but are dead as soon as the USB is unplugged. They do function as 3D glasses when the USB is connected but who wants that.
> 
> Anyway, I just wanted to let BradH know he is not alone. I am probably going to exchange this PJ as it's within the 30 day window. The glasses are for sure going back. I'd also be curious if anyone else could hear if their 5040UB makes the humming noise during 4K enhancement. Like I say it's quiet, about the same volume as the fan, and is appx the same frequency as the tone TV stations used to broadcast when they went off the air for the night in the 70s.





impetigo said:


> Oh... that probably means you have some hearing impairment! High fan is fairly loud from that close, but it's not a terrible fan noise.
> 
> The noise that bothers me isn't the fan noise (which is totally fine and not intrusive in ECO mode and reasonable in medium), and only comes on when I play a blu-ray disk from either my Oppo or PS3 and doesn't stop until I stop the disk. It's definitely coming from the projector and didn't happen with either of my prior PJs (AE8000U and Sony AW15). It's like a humming noise that is quite noticeable except during parts with loud audio. I'll try to make a recording and post it here to see what folks think.



There is a known issue with having the 4K enhancement enabled with 60 Hz input signals. Check to see if this applies in your situation. See Morty's post above.


----------



## impetigo

robc1976 said:


> do you have your projector plugged directly into a wall? Maybe try plugging it into a very good surge protector, may have dirty power (common) and its creating a buzz.


Thank you, Rob. I wondered if it could be something like EM noise, but it turned out to be the issue jjwinterberg suggested.



jjwinterberg said:


> There is a known issue with having the 4K enhancement enabled with 60 Hz input signals. Check to see if this applies in your situation. See Morty's post above.


THANK YOU!!!! This is what the issue was and after turning off 4k enhancement the sound promptly went away and now just the white noise ECO fan which I don't mind at all. I had my Oppo set to 1080/24p and was watching a blu-ray (Peanuts the Movie) which I assumed would be in 24p though, but I'm not sure it was outputting in 24p and I also haven't seen a way to choose a frequency (24 instead of 60hz) on the 5040. Is there a way? I looked through all the menus to no avail. Didn't read the manual of course... 

edit: just noticed in that quote that another question of mine was answered: the HDD type noise that I can hear at times (the PJ is probably 18" from the top of our heads) and is apparently due to the auro iris. Will try turning it off to see if it goes away.

Apparently, no firmware yet for the humming due to 4k enhancement of 60hz signal?


----------



## jjwinterberg

impetigo said:


> THANK YOU!!!! This is what the issue was and after turning off 4k enhancement the sound promptly went away and now just the white noise ECO fan which I don't mind at all. I had my Oppo set to 1080/24p and was watching a blu-ray (Peanuts the Movie) which I assumed would be in 24p though, but I'm not sure it was outputting in 24p and I also haven't seen a way to choose a frequency (24 instead of 60hz) on the 5040. Is there a way? I looked through all the menus to no avail. Didn't read the manual of course...
> 
> edit: just noticed in that quote that another question of mine was answered: the HDD type noise that I can hear at times (the PJ is probably 18" from the top of our heads) and is apparently due to the auro iris. Will try turning it off to see if it goes away.
> 
> Apparently, no firmware yet for the humming due to 4k enhancement of 60hz signal?



You are welcome. The 5040 has to display the signal with the refresh frequency that it is provided. Look to the source component to adjust the refresh frequency. 


If you are using the Oppo you have a great deal of flexibility to set the output frame rate. Be sure to verify that the output frame rate is what you intend it to be by using the "long press" info button menu. If you scroll down that menu you will see what the Oppo is outputting. You can then verify it using the 5040's information menu.


----------



## peterbund

What is the cheapest way to play on 5040ub/6040ub 4K videos from USB flash drive? USB port on 5040ub/6040ub is not meant to play 4K videos via USB flash drive so I guess I need some kind of player. I have PlayStation 4 but as I know it does not support 4K videos on USB flash drive (only PlayStation 4 supports them).

Second question. Where do you get 4K videos for 5040ub/6040ub? I know that Netflix offers some. But I would like other good sources. It would be awesome if the is some sports live streaming in 4K.

Thank you.


----------



## Dave Harper

Here's a new one. I tried switching to RGB from YCbCr, on a tip from member @Nima over in the LS10000 thread. After a lot of testing last night on the LS10000 and 5040, I have to say I agree with him that RGB provides a more sharper and detailed image than does YCbCr for these Epsons. Maybe they have a poor YCbCr to RGBHV decoder implementation in the Epsons? It is pretty noticeable, even compared to my HarperVision settings! 

It is starting to look like this could be the Holy Grail of image quality for these Epsons if we can get RGB 4K24p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 going. I can't seem to get anything more than SDR 8 bit Rec709 with RGB on the UB900 and XB1S. Here are some other links if anyone can try this themselves or has any ideas?

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...e-shift-laser-projector-151.html#post53222130 
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...asonic-dmp-ub900-thread-120.html#post53221650 

Nima said he made a post over in the Linker thread too, but I tried both a Linker and Integral to no avail.


----------



## Travis M

Hey all,

Got my projector yesterday and replaced the Optoma I had for several years. Some observations.

The first thing I tried to do with update the firmware. I held the power button in while plugging it in and no matter what I did, the projector would not stay on. I let go of the button when the lights on the side came on but no matter what, it turned off and wouldn't allow me to connect with my computer. I will check tonight to see what my firmware version is, but am I missing anything in the last version or 2 if I can't get it to work?

I played around with settings and really thought I was getting a good picture. I then tried Harper settings and was really blown away. Let me just say this to any lurkers, you have plenty of memory slots in this thing, you ABSOLUTELY need to have one of them saved for Harper's settings. I would love to see one from him for 1080p blu rays. Just amazing.

Having said that, while it looks great, it uses the most powerful setting so the fan turns up pretty loud. So you get a fairly loud fan and a loss of 1000 hours on the bulb. I've tried just putting it on Medium but it loses just a little bit of pop. I will probably try watching a full movie each way and see if I can get away with the medium setting but if anyone out there has some other settings to offset the loss of brightness by dropping down to medium, I'm all ears.

I don't even have an hour on the bulb yet, only watched a couple of clips before turning in for bed. Very excited to watch some movies this weekend though.


----------



## bluer101

impetigo said:


> Thank you, Rob. I wondered if it could be something like EM noise, but it turned out to be the issue jjwinterberg suggested.
> 
> 
> 
> THANK YOU!!!! This is what the issue was and after turning off 4k enhancement the sound promptly went away and now just the white noise ECO fan which I don't mind at all. I had my Oppo set to 1080/24p and was watching a blu-ray (Peanuts the Movie) which I assumed would be in 24p though, but I'm not sure it was outputting in 24p and I also haven't seen a way to choose a frequency (24 instead of 60hz) on the 5040. Is there a way? I looked through all the menus to no avail. Didn't read the manual of course...
> 
> edit: just noticed in that quote that another question of mine was answered: the HDD type noise that I can hear at times (the PJ is probably 18" from the top of our heads) and is apparently due to the auro iris. Will try turning it off to see if it goes away.
> 
> Apparently, no firmware yet for the humming due to 4k enhancement of 60hz signal?


I bet you have your avr set to output 60 and that's why it's not changing to 24p.


----------



## impetigo

bluer101 said:


> I bet you have your avr set to output 60 and that's why it's not changing to 24p.


Oh, that's quite possible actually! I set my Oppo to 24p "on" (not "auto") but didn't even think about the AVR, which I guess I figured would be a pass through type situation. Will have to check it later.

By the way, can anyone guide me to the "Harper" calibration settings in this thread? A general idea would be appreciated. And I understand it's for UHD source and not 1080p? (Sorry, I used to be quite hard core on following threads for my gear but have become too busy to do that much nowadays). I'm eager to be "blown away" post-calibration!


----------



## bluer101

impetigo said:


> Oh, that's quite possible actually! I set my Oppo to 24p "on" (not "auto") but didn't even think about the AVR, which I guess I figured would be a pass through type situation. Will have to check it later.
> 
> By the way, can anyone guide me to the "Harper" calibration settings in this thread? A general idea would be appreciated. And I understand it's for UHD source and not 1080p? (Sorry, I used to be quite hard core on following threads for my gear but have become too busy to do that much nowadays). I'm eager to be "blown away" post-calibration!


I still have not even fed the pj a uhd source. Still very happy with 1080p from my 103d.


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> Here's a new one. I tried switching to RGB from YCbCr, on a tip from member @Nima over in the LS10000 thread. After a lot of testing last night on the LS10000 and 5040, I have to say I agree with him that RGB provides a more sharper and detailed image than does YCbCr for these Epsons. Maybe they have a poor YCbCr to RGBHV decoder implementation in the Epsons? It is pretty noticeable, even compared to my HarperVision settings!
> 
> 
> 
> It is starting to look like this could be the Holy Grail of image quality for these Epsons if we can get RGB 4K24p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 going. I can't seem to get anything more than SDR 8 bit Rec709 with RGB on the UB900 and XB1S. Here are some other links if anyone can try this themselves or has any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...e-shift-laser-projector-151.html#post53222130
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...asonic-dmp-ub900-thread-120.html#post53221650
> 
> 
> 
> Nima said he made a post over in the Linker thread too, but I tried both a Linker and Integral to no avail.




Switching to RGB would be in the UHD player, correct? I have the Oppo 203 so would you suggest just selecting RGB and using your Harpervision settings, or would there be other changes I should do? I can choose 4:2:2 12bit or 4.2.0, among other choices.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

impetigo said:


> Oh, that's quite possible actually! I set my Oppo to 24p "on" (not "auto") but didn't even think about the AVR, which I guess I figured would be a pass through type situation. Will have to check it later.
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, can anyone guide me to the "Harper" calibration settings in this thread? A general idea would be appreciated. And I understand it's for UHD source and not 1080p? (Sorry, I used to be quite hard core on following threads for my gear but have become too busy to do that much nowadays). I'm eager to be "blown away" post-calibration!



There is a link below my signature to point you to my settings. Yes it's for UHD HDR WCG only. 




spirithockey79 said:


> Switching to RGB would be in the UHD player, correct? I have the Oppo 203 so would you suggest just selecting RGB and using your Harpervision settings, or would there be other changes I should do? I can choose 4:2:2 12bit or 4.2.0, among other choices.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Yes you change that in your source. Can the Oppo output RGB along with HDR and BT2020 at min 10 bit 4:2:0? The Panny UB900 doesn't seem to be able to. It only will do SDR 8 bit BT709, at least on the LS10000 and 5040. I'll try it on the RS600 I have for sale too.


----------



## xpl0sive

philipbtz said:


> You made the right choice. Probably the best player for any projector since it'll be years until Dolby Vision.


Thanks man, comforting to know  set it up last night and seems like quite a nice player.


----------



## seplant

impetigo said:


> Thank you, Rob. I wondered if it could be something like EM noise, but it turned out to be the issue jjwinterberg suggested.
> 
> 
> 
> THANK YOU!!!! This is what the issue was and after turning off 4k enhancement the sound promptly went away and now just the white noise ECO fan which I don't mind at all. I had my Oppo set to 1080/24p and was watching a blu-ray (Peanuts the Movie) which I assumed would be in 24p though, but I'm not sure it was outputting in 24p and I also haven't seen a way to choose a frequency (24 instead of 60hz) on the 5040. Is there a way? I looked through all the menus to no avail. Didn't read the manual of course...
> 
> Apparently, no firmware yet for the humming due to 4k enhancement of 60hz signal?


You know, mine made that noise with 4k enhancement turned on when I first got my projector, and at some point along the way, it stopped doing it. Maybe give it some time?


----------



## Dave Harper

It's an actual piece of optical glass that vibrates in the light path to create the eShift, so it probably just loosens up and stops squealing over time and use.


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> There is a link below my signature to point you to my settings. Yes it's for UHD HDR WCG only.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you change that in your source. Can the Oppo output RGB along with HDR and BT2020 at min 10 bit 4:2:0? The Panny UB900 doesn't seem to be able to. It only will do SDR 8 bit BT709, at least on the LS10000 and 5040. I'll try it on the RS600 I have for sale too.




Not exactly sure, but I think so. I'll confirm. Also, doesn't RGB have an impact on brightness and contrast ranges (along with using Expanded HDMI Video vs Normal in the Epson)? What about SuperWhite?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

Sundodger said:


> I hope I'm wrong, but articles like this from Business Insider led me to believe the first true Xbox 4k gaming will come with Scorpio:
> 
> "The Xbox One S supports 4K/UltraHD, too, but only for movie playback from specially-marked Blu-Ray discs, not for games. That said, it does support high-dynamic range, or HDR, a technology for displaying super-vivid colors that Business Insider's own Antonio Villas-Boas thinks is actually better and more noticeable than UltraHD."
> 
> Source - http://www.businessinsider.com/microsoft-project-scorpio-vs-xbox-one-s-2017-4




I'll be at E3 in a few weeks and will find out the actual 411 on the Scorpio.


----------



## ac388

Hi Dave,

I have tried the following settings on my Oppo 203, while using Harpervision :

Output resolution : Auto or Custom ( no picture if I select 'Source direct')
Color Space : RGB video level (try RGB PC level but can't tell difference)
All others on AUTO

On the Epson 5040, I get 4K/23.976, RGB video level, HDR, BT2020, 8 bit. It didn't say 4:2:0 or 4:2:2.. Wonder how far am I from the 'Holy Grail' ?

Please advise if there are any changes I should try on both the 203 n 5040 settings ???

Appreciate your guidance !!! 

P.S. 203 n 5040 is connected directly without any preamp in between.









Dave Harper said:


> Here's a new one. I tried switching to RGB from YCbCr, on a tip from member @*Nima* over in the LS10000 thread. After a lot of testing last night on the LS10000 and 5040, I have to say I agree with him that RGB provides a more sharper and detailed image than does YCbCr for these Epsons. Maybe they have a poor YCbCr to RGBHV decoder implementation in the Epsons? It is pretty noticeable, even compared to my HarperVision settings!
> 
> It is starting to look like this could be the Holy Grail of image quality for these Epsons if we can get RGB 4K24p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 going. I can't seem to get anything more than SDR 8 bit Rec709 with RGB on the UB900 and XB1S. Here are some other links if anyone can try this themselves or has any ideas?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...e-shift-laser-projector-151.html#post53222130
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...asonic-dmp-ub900-thread-120.html#post53221650
> 
> Nima said he made a post over in the Linker thread too, but I tried both a Linker and Integral to no avail.


----------



## Leon1972

So unfortunately I am no longer going to Germany. I am going somewhere else for a year. This location will be too harsh on a projector so while I have enjoyed your guys insight I will not be back for a while. Too hard on the soul to read about such a great projector and not be able to own one! 
Hey, maybe when I get back though true 4K projectors will be cheap enough for the average joe! One can hope! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

dave you took us to rgb along time ago with your sony vs the 5040 but you did not understand the gamma curve at the time. coming from a sony myself i always set my blue ray for rgb before this hdr blitz. i notice this level of clarity you are talking about with the nivida shield 4k 8bit sdr rgb vudu . i may be wrong but doesn't everything breaks down to rgb at the end?


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> Here's a new one. I tried switching to RGB from YCbCr, on a tip from member @Nima over in the LS10000 thread. After a lot of testing last night on the LS10000 and 5040, I have to say I agree with him that RGB provides a more sharper and detailed image than does YCbCr for these Epsons. Maybe they have a poor YCbCr to RGBHV decoder implementation in the Epsons? It is pretty noticeable, even compared to my HarperVision settings!
> 
> It is starting to look like this could be the Holy Grail of image quality for these Epsons if we can get RGB 4K24p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 going. I can't seem to get anything more than SDR 8 bit Rec709 with RGB on the UB900 and XB1S. Here are some other links if anyone can try this themselves or has any ideas?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...e-shift-laser-projector-151.html#post53222130
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...asonic-dmp-ub900-thread-120.html#post53221650
> 
> Nima said he made a post over in the Linker thread too, but I tried both a Linker and Integral to no avail.


So at the moment Dave selecting RGB is only for rec709/1080p blu Ray and therefore with the epsons 1080/SDR picture settings ?.

Thanks, I might have a look at this as I'm mostly watching 1080 blu Ray anyway.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Here's a new one. I tried switching to RGB from YCbCr, on a tip from member @Nima over in the LS10000 thread. After a lot of testing last night on the LS10000 and 5040, I have to say I agree with him that RGB provides a more sharper and detailed image than does YCbCr for these Epsons. Maybe they have a poor YCbCr to RGBHV decoder implementation in the Epsons? It is pretty noticeable, even compared to my HarperVision settings!
> 
> It is starting to look like this could be the Holy Grail of image quality for these Epsons if we can get RGB 4K24p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 going. I can't seem to get anything more than SDR 8 bit Rec709 with RGB on the UB900 and XB1S. Here are some other links if anyone can try this themselves or has any ideas?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...e-shift-laser-projector-151.html#post53222130
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...asonic-dmp-ub900-thread-120.html#post53221650
> 
> Nima said he made a post over in the Linker thread too, but I tried both a Linker and Integral to no avail.


 will this work with xbox1s also (4k sdr 709)? Or is this for 1080p only? I am guessing I would have to sect this in my AVR or just the xbox, or BD player? 


Any other settings need to be changed or calibrated?


----------



## impetigo

bluer101 said:


> I still have not even fed the pj a uhd source. Still very happy with 1080p from my 103d.


Thanks, a little perspective is something I need. I probably didn't really need to upgrade from my AE8000U to the 5040UB, and I really don't need to be getting a UHD player to replace my BDP 103. It never ends once you start to loosen the wallet... 




Dave Harper said:


> There is a link below my signature to point you to my settings. Yes it's for UHD HDR WCG only.


Thanks, although I guess I'll have to wait a while before I get to try it out.




seplant said:


> You know, mine made that noise with 4k enhancement turned on when I first got my projector, and at some point along the way, it stopped doing it. Maybe give it some time?


That's really interesting, I hope it does as I would like to use it if it actually makes a noticeable difference. I'm not sure really how to check if my 5040UB is actually receiving a 24hz signal though. My 103 shows a 24hz output but not sure how to see what the 5040UB is receiving as I can't find the usual "info" button. I checked my Yamaha AVR receiver settings and it seems like it is set to "pass through" for video signal and it does support 24p so I can only assume it's sending the 24p signal from the 103 to the 5040. But still the humming...


----------



## robc1976

impetigo said:


> Thanks, a little perspective is something I need. I probably didn't really need to upgrade from my AE8000U to the 5040UB, and I really don't need to be getting a UHD player to replace my BDP 103. It never ends once you start to loosen the wallet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, although I guess I'll have to wait a while before I get to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's really interesting, I hope it does as I would like to use it if it actually makes a noticeable difference. I'm not sure really how to check if my 5040UB is actually receiving a 24hz signal though. My 103 shows a 24hz output but not sure how to see what the 5040UB is receiving as I can't find the usual "info" button. I checked my Yamaha AVR receiver settings and it seems like it is set to "pass through" for video signal and it does support 24p so I can only assume it's sending the 24p signal from the 103 to the 5040. But still the humming...


Go to projector info tab, my refresh rate is 59 and I.have no hum on the xbox1s


----------



## robc1976

impetigo said:


> Thanks, a little perspective is something I need. I probably didn't really need to upgrade from my AE8000U to the 5040UB, and I really don't need to be getting a UHD player to replace my BDP 103. It never ends once you start to loosen the wallet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, although I guess I'll have to wait a while before I get to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's really interesting, I hope it does as I would like to use it if it actually makes a noticeable difference. I'm not sure really how to check if my 5040UB is actually receiving a 24hz signal though. My 103 shows a 24hz output but not sure how to see what the 5040UB is receiving as I can't find the usual "info" button. I checked my Yamaha AVR receiver settings and it seems like it is set to "pass through" for video signal and it does support 24p so I can only assume it's sending the 24p signal from the 103 to the 5040. But still the humming...


 the hum is coming from projector NOT speakers correct?


----------



## impetigo

Dave Harper said:


> It's an actual piece of optical glass that vibrates in the light path to create the eShift, so it probably just loosens up and stops squealing over time and use.


Are you responding to the comment that the noise may stop by itself eventually? Fingers crossed. 



robc1976 said:


> Go to projector info tab, my refresh rate is 59 and I.have no hum on the xbox1s


Ah, thanks! I think I might have seen it once the first time I went through the menu but forgot about it existed. Will have to check it out.



robc1976 said:


> the hum is coming from projector NOT speakers correct?


Yep, even with the audio on mute, although I need the AVR turned on to send the signal to the 5040 but I guess I could try disconnecting the speakers... but the sound definitely coming from the projector itself. Stops immediately when I turn off 4k enhancement and comes back when I turn it back on.

For now, I am happy to keep 4k enhancement off since the noise is what worried and bothered me. I'm just relieved I don't have to send it back to Adorama because otherwise I am happy with it. I can't notice much difference/improvement in picture quality vs my AE8000U but the motorized lens shift (and zoom/focus) with memory and quieter/low frequency fan noise make it worth it to me. It is also brighter in ECO than the AE8000U which is nice, with similar black levels/contrast to my eye.


----------



## Dave Harper

spirithockey79 said:


> Not exactly sure, but I think so. I'll confirm. Also, doesn't RGB have an impact on brightness and contrast ranges (along with using Expanded HDMI Video vs Normal in the Epson)? What about SuperWhite?


No, the only effect it would have would be the Standard and Enhanced settings, which moves the black and white levels. You have to match the source to the display and adjust brightness and contrast accordingly



ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I have tried the following settings on my Oppo 203, while using Harpervision :
> 
> Output resolution : Auto or Custom ( no picture if I select 'Source direct')
> Color Space : RGB video level (try RGB PC level but can't tell difference)
> All others on AUTO
> 
> On the Epson 5040, I get 4K/23.976, RGB video level, HDR, BT2020, 8 bit. It didn't say 4:2:0 or 4:2:2.. Wonder how far am I from the 'Holy Grail' ?
> 
> Please advise if there are any changes I should try on both the 203 n 5040 settings ???
> 
> Appreciate your guidance !!!
> 
> P.S. 203 n 5040 is connected directly without any preamp in between.


Whoah, that's awesome progress, thanks! I am unsure why it's still giving you 8 bit with HDR BT2020, but that is better, yes! Have you tested it and noticed it better than other HDR modes or my HarperVision settings? I would say try to get that to 10 bit minimum somehow.

EDIT: I have looked at the manual for the menu on pg 56 and there is a Color Depth Setting. Try setting that to 10 bit:

6. Color Depth: Allows you to select the color depth mode for the HDMI video output. For
displays that support increased color depth, you should see smoother color transitions and
better gradients.
 Auto (default) – The player automatically determines the color depth mode based on the
capabilities of the display device.
 12-bit – Always uses the 12-bit color depth mode.
 *10-bit – Always uses the 10-bit color depth mode.*
 8-bit – Always uses the 8-bit color depth mode.

Man this Oppo is starting to sound like the player to use for HarperVision on these Epsons! You can force HDR for displays that don't say they can do it in their EDID and these other RGB settings too. It seems like you can eliminate the HDFury Linker altogether for the LS10000. I will have to get one I think.




Leon1972 said:


> So unfortunately I am no longer going to Germany. I am going somewhere else for a year. This location will be too harsh on a projector so while I have enjoyed your guys insight I will not be back for a while. Too hard on the soul to read about such a great projector and not be able to own one!
> Hey, maybe when I get back though true 4K projectors will be cheap enough for the average joe! One can hope! Lol


Oh, I pray that's better for you and your family then. "Too harsh" for a projector...oh no, I hope you won't be in harm's way! Good luck and safe travels Leon! Please check in with us and let us know when you're ready to play again! 



covsound1 said:


> dave you took us to rgb along time ago with your sony vs the 5040 but you did not understand the gamma curve at the time. coming from a sony myself i always set my blue ray for rgb before this hdr blitz. i notice this level of clarity you are talking about with the nivida shield 4k 8bit sdr rgb vudu . i may be wrong but doesn't everything breaks down to rgb at the end?


Yes, I remember back then when I was playing the XB1S RGB using Revenant on the Sony VW350ES! Man that was nice. I ended up having an issue with it and having to send it in. They sent me a new VW365ES as a replacement, which I immediately sold and did the upgrade to the VW675ES.

Yes, every display has to break it down to it's native components, RGB plus H sync & V sync. It just saves you bandwidth sending YCbCr instead for things like your cables, etc. Maybe that is the issue here too. I will have to check that.



panman40 said:


> So at the moment Dave selecting RGB is only for rec709/1080p blu Ray and therefore with the epsons 1080/SDR picture settings ?.
> 
> Thanks, I might have a look at this as I'm mostly watching 1080 blu Ray anyway.


No, this is 4K SDR rec709 8 bit.



robc1976 said:


> will this work with xbox1s also (4k sdr 709)? Or is this for 1080p only? I am guessing I would have to sect this in my AVR or just the xbox, or BD player?
> 
> Any other settings need to be changed or calibrated?


Yes it should work on the XB1S. I tried that too and got the same results. Just choose your 4K SDR calibrated setting like Natural Mode to show this. do NOT use the HarperVision settings until we get it to send 4K HDR BT2020 RGB, which sounds like it's close using the Oppo 203 from the report above.



impetigo said:


> Are you responding to the comment that the noise may stop by itself eventually? Fingers crossed.


Yes, that's what I was responding to. I would certainly entertain sending that one back though, because it shouldn't sound that bad. Mine doesn't. I wouldn't trust that it will just stop sounding that way. Give Epson a call, they're awesome with support! They gave me a brand new LS10000 when my B-Stock was bad!


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Yes it should work on the XB1S. I tried that too and got the same results. Just choose your 4K SDR calibrated setting like Natural Mode to show this. do NOT use the HarperVision settings until we get it to send 4K HDR BT2020 RGB, which sounds like it's close using the Oppo 203 from the report above.


 so select this in the xbox1s? I see a PC-RGB option, is this it?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> so select this in the xbox1s? I see a PC-RGB option, is this it?


Both options, Standard and PC RGB send RGB out its HDMI output. Only recently did they do an update where you can go into the 4K Advanced menu and check the box for "Allow YCC" so it sends YCbCr Component via HDMI. If that is not checked, it's always RGB. The difference is Standard is video range 16-255 and PC RGB is PC levels, 0-255.


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> No, the only effect it would have would be the Standard and Enhanced settings, which moves the black and white levels. You have to match the source to the display and adjust brightness and contrast accordingly
> 
> 
> 
> Whoah, that's awesome progress, thanks! I am unsure why it's still giving you 8 bit with HDR BT2020, but that is better, yes! Have you tested it and noticed it better than other HDR modes or my HarperVision settings? I would say try to get that to 10 bit minimum somehow.
> 
> EDIT: I have looked at the manual for the menu on pg 56 and there is a Color Depth Setting. Try setting that to 10 bit:
> 
> 6. Color Depth: Allows you to select the color depth mode for the HDMI video output. For
> displays that support increased color depth, you should see smoother color transitions and
> better gradients.
>  Auto (default) – The player automatically determines the color depth mode based on the
> capabilities of the display device.
>  12-bit – Always uses the 12-bit color depth mode.
>  *10-bit – Always uses the 10-bit color depth mode.*
>  8-bit – Always uses the 8-bit color depth mode.
> 
> Man this Oppo is starting to sound like the player to use for HarperVision on these Epsons! You can force HDR for displays that don't say they can do it in their EDID and these other RGB settings too. It seems like you can eliminate the HDFury Linker altogether for the LS10000. I will have to get one I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, I pray that's better for you and your family then. "Too harsh" for a projector...oh no, I hope you won't be in harm's way! Good luck and safe travels Leon! Please check in with us and let us know when you're ready to play again!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I remember back then when I was playing the XB1S RGB using Revenant on the Sony VW350ES! Man that was nice. I ended up having an issue with it and having to send it in. They sent me a new VW365ES as a replacement, which I immediately sold and did the upgrade to the VW675ES.
> 
> Yes, every display has to break it down to it's native components, RGB plus H sync & V sync. It just saves you bandwidth sending YCbCr instead for things like your cables, etc. Maybe that is the issue here too. I will have to check that.
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is 4K SDR rec709 8 bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it should work on the XB1S. I tried that too and got the same results. Just choose your 4K SDR calibrated setting like Natural Mode to show this. do NOT use the HarperVision settings until we get it to send 4K HDR BT2020 RGB, which sounds like it's close using the Oppo 203 from the report above.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's what I was responding to. I would certainly entertain sending that one back though, because it shouldn't sound that bad. Mine doesn't. I wouldn't trust that it will just stop sounding that way. Give Epson a call, they're awesome with support! They gave me a brand new LS10000 when my B-Stock was bad!



Thanks, I don't think I have any 4k uhd discs that are SDR...


----------



## Lesmor

robc1976 said:


> few questions, inputing these settings
> 
> Color tone 1-9 cant find those?
> Deinterlaced	Blanked (mine is not blanked, says film/auto)
> 
> Are these correct
> 
> HDMI Video Range	Auto (mine is blanked out)
> Colour Space Default (mine says BT.709)
> Dynamic Range Default (mine says SDR)
> Image Processing	Default (mine says fine)
> 
> Thanks man, really looking forward to these settings!


Hi robc
Sorry I got confused with the settings you were asking about under PM
I will send another to address my mistake


----------



## Dave Harper

panman40 said:


> Thanks, I don't think I have any 4k uhd discs that are SDR...


I'm not talking about the discs. I am talking about what the player, in this case the UB900, is sending.


----------



## Schuyler Bain

Anyone using a Screen Excellence Enlightor 4K screen with the Epson 5040ub? This screen has a lower gain that others, but I'm wondering if it pairs well with the Epson since it's so bright.


----------



## seplant

Dave Harper said:


> Here's a new one. I tried switching to RGB from YCbCr, on a tip from member @Nima over in the LS10000 thread. After a lot of testing last night on the LS10000 and 5040, I have to say I agree with him that RGB provides a more sharper and detailed image than does YCbCr for these Epsons. Maybe they have a poor YCbCr to RGBHV decoder implementation in the Epsons? It is pretty noticeable, even compared to my HarperVision settings!
> 
> It is starting to look like this could be the Holy Grail of image quality for these Epsons if we can get RGB 4K24p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 going. I can't seem to get anything more than SDR 8 bit Rec709 with RGB on the UB900 and XB1S. Here are some other links if anyone can try this themselves or has any ideas?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...e-shift-laser-projector-151.html#post53222130
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...asonic-dmp-ub900-thread-120.html#post53221650
> 
> Nima said he made a post over in the Linker thread too, but I tried both a Linker and Integral to no avail.


Dave - Panasonic seems to be pretty good about adding features via firmware to the UB900. Do you think it's worth asking them if they can add an RGB 4K24p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 output mode?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## thevenom

So Room is nearly done and I'm about to mount the projector. I'm shooting for 150" 16:9 
I have 19' throw distance from the screen.
My Question is.
Do I zoom out ( make the picture the biggest it can be) and then move the projector front or back till i get 150" or is it better to be closer for brightness? If i can get 150" at say 17' would it be better or worse if I'm fully zoomed out or try not to zoom out as much?

What are the advantages? I hope you guys can understand what I'm saying lol.


----------



## Travis M

I found some settings last night after playing around that make me happy with 1080p sources. I'm fairly set.

I still have the issue about upgrading firmware not working and a new issue.

I can't get FI to allow me to select it. Nor can I select Aspect ratio.

I have turned off all upscaling on my AVR and Blu ray player so it feeds a 1080p 24 signal. Anyone have ideas?

Sony x800
Yamaha 3050


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> I'm not talking about the discs. I am talking about what the player, in this case the UB900, is sending.


That's me lost then lol! Must be the heat, what have you got running through the ub900 that sends 4K SDR ?.


----------



## panman40

Travis M said:


> I found some settings last night after playing around that make me happy with 1080p sources. I'm fairly set.
> 
> I still have the issue about upgrading firmware not working and a new issue.
> 
> I can't get FI to allow me to select it. Nor can I select Aspect ratio.
> 
> I have turned off all upscaling on my AVR and Blu ray player so it feeds a 1080p 24 signal. Anyone have ideas?
> 
> Sony x800
> Yamaha 3050


Have you put the USB stick into the correct USB port on the back ?, a few have been caught out with that.


----------



## seplant

Travis M said:


> I can't get FI to allow me to select it. Nor can I select Aspect ratio.
> 
> I have turned off all upscaling on my AVR and Blu ray player so it feeds a 1080p 24 signal. Anyone have ideas?
> 
> Sony x800
> Yamaha 3050


For Frame Interpolation to be enabled, Image Processing under Signal > Advanced must be set to Fine. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

Travis M said:


> I found some settings last night after playing around that make me happy with 1080p sources. I'm fairly set.
> 
> I still have the issue about upgrading firmware not working and a new issue.
> 
> I can't get FI to allow me to select it. Nor can I select Aspect ratio.
> 
> I have turned off all upscaling on my AVR and Blu ray player so it feeds a 1080p 24 signal. Anyone have ideas?
> 
> Sony x800
> Yamaha 3050


I also can't select FI 
After checking the manual it all looks to be in the required conditions


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Both options, Standard and PC RGB send RGB out its HDMI output. Only recently did they do an update where you can go into the 4K Advanced menu and check the box for "Allow YCC" so it sends YCbCr Component via HDMI. If that is not checked, it's always RGB. The difference is Standard is video range 16-255 and PC RGB is PC levels, 0-255.


I cant find anywhere where it says YCC? All it says is standard (recommended) and PC-RGB. I am guessing PC-RGB you do not want since display is calibrated in 16-255


----------



## robc1976

thevenom said:


> So Room is nearly done and I'm about to mount the projector. I'm shooting for 150" 16:9
> I have 19' throw distance from the screen.
> My Question is.
> Do I zoom out ( make the picture the biggest it can be) and then move the projector front or back till i get 150" or is it better to be closer for brightness? If i can get 150" at say 17' would it be better or worse if I'm fully zoomed out or try not to zoom out as much?
> 
> What are the advantages? I hope you guys can understand what I'm saying lol.


Closer is better for brightness, I had mine at 23ft and my 138" screen was a bit dark


----------



## robc1976

seplant said:


> Dave - Panasonic seems to be pretty good about adding features via firmware to the UB900. Do you think it's worth asking them if they can add an RGB 4K24p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 output mode?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


I really hope so, just bought this player and dont want to get rid of it.


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> Hi robc
> Sorry I got confused with the settings you were asking about under PM
> I will send another to address my mistake


 I greatly appreciate this


----------



## Travis M

panman40 said:


> Have you put the USB stick into the correct USB port on the back ?, a few have been caught out with that.


Isn't there only 1 mini USB in the back? I put it in that one, not the regular sized USB.


----------



## panman40

Travis M said:


> Isn't there only 1 mini USB in the back? I put it in that one, not the regular sized USB.


From memory one is labelled optical HDMI 300mh, a usb will fit that but it's not the correct one, I have a mate that had his mounted very close to a wall and inserted the usb by 'feel' but in the wrong port, doesn't sound like that's your issue though.
It's a clean usb with just the bin file on it ?. You need to use the port labelled USB .


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I cant find anywhere where it says YCC? All it says is standard (recommended) and PC-RGB. I am guessing PC-RGB you do not want since display is calibrated in 16-255



Go to the 4K advanced menu and it is in the list towards the right center that has options for 50p, 24p, HDR, 3D, etc. one is "Allow YCC". To get RGB make sure that is NOT checked. To get YCbCr, then check it. 




seplant said:


> Dave - Panasonic seems to be pretty good about adding features via firmware to the UB900. Do you think it's worth asking them if they can add an RGB 4K24p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 output mode?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk



See below.......



panman40 said:


> That's me lost then lol! Must be the heat, what have you got running through the ub900 that sends 4K SDR ?.



It is a regular UHD HDR Blu-ray Disc. It just converts it to RGB 4K 24p SDR BT709 8 bit for some reason because the 5040's EDID must not be reporting to be capable of the full HDR Signal while in RGB mode. 

I tried it on the JVC RS600 last night and it worked perfectly, so I know the Panasonic can do it. 

I also saw on the Linker's info GUI that it was sending what I wanted to the projector. It just wouldn't display it, so it's a limitation of the 5040. 

It appears that modes can be forced on the Oppo 203 so we can pretty much get there using that player. The problem with the UB900 is that it only has two setting for things like HDR etc., AUTO and OFF. The 203 has AUTO, ON (forced) and OFF. We need Panasonic to update FW to add a forced ON mode, or Epson to update there's to add RGB 4K 24p HDR BT2020 10bit 4:2:0. It should be able to and there's no reason why it doesn't since it accepts the exact same thing in YCbCr mode instead of RGB.


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> Go to the 4K advanced menu and it is in the list towards the right center that has options for 50p, 24p, HDR, 3D, etc. one is "Allow YCC". To get RGB make sure that is NOT checked. To get YCbCr, then check it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See below.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a regular UHD HDR Blu-ray Disc. It just converts it to RGB 4K 24p SDR BT709 8 bit for some reason because the 5040's EDID must not be reporting to be capable of the full HDR Signal while in RGB mode.
> 
> I tried it on the JVC RS600 last night and it worked perfectly, so I know the Panasonic can do it.
> 
> I also saw on the Linker's info GUI that it was sending what I wanted to the projector. It just wouldn't display it, so it's a limitation of the 5040.
> 
> It appears that modes can be forced on the Oppo 203 so we can pretty much get there using that player. The problem with the UB900 is that it only has two setting for things like HDR etc., AUTO and OFF. The 203 has AUTO, ON (forced) and OFF. We need Panasonic to update FW to add a forced ON mode, or Epson to update there's to add RGB 4K 24p HDR BT2020 10bit 4:2:0. It should be able to and there's no reason why it doesn't since it accepts the exact same thing in YCbCr mode instead of RGB.


Right I'm with you now Dave!, 

Whilst on the subject of Epson f/w I have along with a few others on the UK side of the pond contacted Epson with a request for auto detection of UHD/HDR and have it change automatically to your chosen set of UHD picture settings, in the same way that it detects 3D.
Would you guys be prepared to spend a few minutes to message Epson ?, I did it through thier Facebook page. Just thinking the more requests the more likely they woukd listen, I would be very grateful if you could find a few minutes guys


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Go to the 4K advanced menu and it is in the list towards the right center that has options for 50p, 24p, HDR, 3D, etc. one is "Allow YCC". To get RGB make sure that is NOT checked. To get YCbCr, then check it.


 think, I found it, it says "allow 4:2:2 YCC" I un-checked this box, correct?


----------



## Travis M

panman40 said:


> From memory one is labelled optical HDMI 300mh, a usb will fit that but it's not the correct one, I have a mate that had his mounted very close to a wall and inserted the usb by 'feel' but in the wrong port, doesn't sound like that's your issue though.
> It's a clean usb with just the bin file on it ?. You need to use the port labelled USB .


Well wait a min, the directions say connect the computer up to the projector, nothing about hooking a USB drive to it.


----------



## Natrix1973

Travis M said:


> Well wait a min, the directions say connect the computer up to the projector, nothing about hooking a USB drive to it.


Firmware is only done through USB.

http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf


----------



## panman40

Travis M said:


> Well wait a min, the directions say connect the computer up to the projector, nothing about hooking a USB drive to it.


Not in the UK manual for just updating the f/w, just go to the Epson support for the tw9300 and download the latest 109 f/w to your computer, copy and paste it to a clean usb stick then follow the instructions to upload it to the projector.power off at mains, insert usb, hold down standby button whilst powering on mains, let go button and the projector should run in high lamp mode for a couple of minutes then shut down. Job done.


----------



## Travis M

Uh, this is where I went:

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

Then it said this:

https://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530500v1.pdf

Maybe I'll try the usb version.....hmm.


----------



## Natrix1973

Travis M said:


> Uh, this is where I went:
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> Then it said this:
> 
> https://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530500v1.pdf
> 
> Maybe I'll try the usb version.....hmm.


Are you looking at the right group of model numbers second from the bottom? It only lists USB for firmware upgrades and has the instructions that I already linked to.

PowerLite Pro Cinema 4040 
PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB
PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UBe
PowerLite Pro Cinema 6040UB

1.09/1.04 

USB


----------



## covsound1

panman40 said:


> Right I'm with you now Dave!,
> 
> Whilst on the subject of Epson f/w I have along with a few others on this side of the pond contacted Epson with a request for auto detection of UHD/HDR and have it change automatically to your chosen set of UHD picture settings, in the same way that it detects 3D.
> Would you guys be prepared to spend a few minutes to message Epson ?, I did it through thier Facebook page. Just thinking the more requests the more likely they woukd listen, I would be very grateful if you could find a few minutes guys


i understand having that auto detection. but this is what makes the 5040 special. but still a pain to change on the fly.


----------



## Travis M

Natrix1973 said:


> Are you looking at the right group of model numbers second from the bottom? It only lists USB for firmware upgrades and has the instructions that I already linked to.
> 
> PowerLite Pro Cinema 4040
> PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB
> PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UBe
> PowerLite Pro Cinema 6040UB
> 
> 1.09/1.04
> 
> USB


Cheers! I was looking at the 5030 on accident! Awesome. Thanks, I'll give it a shot now.


----------



## Jameshtx

Dave,

Does harpervision settings apply to blu-ray movie disc playing on my Oppo 203?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Hi Dave,

I did select 10 or even 12 bit but the output still say 8 bit. I wonder if this is affected by the 10.2 chipset in 5040.

As for the picture quality between RGB n 4:2:2, I did switch it back n forth n couldn't tell any big difference, maybe my eyes are not trained as well as yours. Or maybe your Harpervision is so good, that left little room for huge improvement.

Hope to hear from you if there is any further findings !!!






Dave Harper said:


> No, the only effect it would have would be the Standard and Enhanced settings, which moves the black and white levels. You have to match the source to the display and adjust brightness and contrast accordingly
> 
> 
> 
> Whoah, that's awesome progress, thanks! I am unsure why it's still giving you 8 bit with HDR BT2020, but that is better, yes! Have you tested it and noticed it better than other HDR modes or my HarperVision settings? I would say try to get that to 10 bit minimum somehow.
> 
> EDIT: I have looked at the manual for the menu on pg 56 and there is a Color Depth Setting. Try setting that to 10 bit:
> 
> 6. Color Depth: Allows you to select the color depth mode for the HDMI video output. For
> displays that support increased color depth, you should see smoother color transitions and
> better gradients.
>  Auto (default) – The player automatically determines the color depth mode based on the
> capabilities of the display device.
>  12-bit – Always uses the 12-bit color depth mode.
>  *10-bit – Always uses the 10-bit color depth mode.*
>  8-bit – Always uses the 8-bit color depth mode.
> 
> Man this Oppo is starting to sound like the player to use for HarperVision on these Epsons! You can force HDR for displays that don't say they can do it in their EDID and these other RGB settings too. It seems like you can eliminate the HDFury Linker altogether for the LS10000. I will have to get one I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, I pray that's better for you and your family then. "Too harsh" for a projector...oh no, I hope you won't be in harm's way! Good luck and safe travels Leon! Please check in with us and let us know when you're ready to play again!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I remember back then when I was playing the XB1S RGB using Revenant on the Sony VW350ES! Man that was nice. I ended up having an issue with it and having to send it in. They sent me a new VW365ES as a replacement, which I immediately sold and did the upgrade to the VW675ES.
> 
> Yes, every display has to break it down to it's native components, RGB plus H sync & V sync. It just saves you bandwidth sending YCbCr instead for things like your cables, etc. Maybe that is the issue here too. I will have to check that.
> 
> 
> 
> No, this is 4K SDR rec709 8 bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it should work on the XB1S. I tried that too and got the same results. Just choose your 4K SDR calibrated setting like Natural Mode to show this. do NOT use the HarperVision settings until we get it to send 4K HDR BT2020 RGB, which sounds like it's close using the Oppo 203 from the report above.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's what I was responding to. I would certainly entertain sending that one back though, because it shouldn't sound that bad. Mine doesn't. I wouldn't trust that it will just stop sounding that way. Give Epson a call, they're awesome with support! They gave me a brand new LS10000 when my B-Stock was bad!


----------



## panman40

covsound1 said:


> i understand having that auto detection. but this is what makes the 5040 special. but still a pain to change on the fly.


'Special ?, I'm not quite sure that's how I would describe it!. The memories are very handy for storing and comparing different settings and I wouldn't want those taken away, once settled on 3 calibrations ( 2D,3D and UHD ) I just think it would be great if the Epson auto detected to save the faff of manually selecting, it's when going from watching a UHD disc back to normal tv or blu Ray that's annoying as its easy to forget to toggle back a memory.

I think this could be very simple to implement via a software update, if of course enough owners give feedback to Epson


----------



## robc1976

ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> I did select 10 or even 12 bit but the output still say 8 bit. I wonder if this is affected by the 10.2 chipset in 5040.
> 
> As for the picture quality between RGB n 4:2:2, I did switch it back n forth n couldn't tell any big difference, maybe my eyes are not trained as well as yours. Or maybe your Harpervision is so good, that left little room for huge improvement.
> 
> Hope to hear from you if there is any further findings !!!


I noticed better colors and sharper image on xbox1s


----------



## Haiej

Dave Harper said:


> Here's a new one. I tried switching to RGB from YCbCr, on a tip from member @Nima over in the LS10000 thread. After a lot of testing last night on the LS10000 and 5040, I have to say I agree with him that RGB provides a more sharper and detailed image than does YCbCr for these Epsons. Maybe they have a poor YCbCr to RGBHV decoder implementation in the Epsons? It is pretty noticeable, even compared to my HarperVision settings!
> 
> It is starting to look like this could be the Holy Grail of image quality for these Epsons if we can get RGB 4K24p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 going. I can't seem to get anything more than SDR 8 bit Rec709 with RGB on the UB900 and XB1S. Here are some other links if anyone can try this themselves or has any ideas?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...e-shift-laser-projector-151.html#post53222130
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...asonic-dmp-ub900-thread-120.html#post53221650
> 
> Nima said he made a post over in the Linker thread too, but I tried both a Linker and Integral to no avail.


Hi guys
From what I understand conceptually:
- YCbCr 4:2:0 = lossy color subsampling
- YCbCr 4:2:2 = lossy color subsampling
- with all due respect to Dave, there is no RGB 4:2:0 (as in, "RGB" is lossless color and "4:2:0" is lossy color, so not mutually applicable), because RGB = (is similar to) = YCbCr 4:4:4 = lossless color

The chart in attachment explains Dave test results:
- 4K UHD player outputs RGB 4K24p 8 bit, and the Epson 5040UB successfully accepts it
- 4K UHD player outputs RGB 4K24p 10 bit, but the Epson 5040UB does not accepts it

If you set your 4K UHD player to output RGB 4K24p 10 bit, it would be similar as setting to player to output lossles YCbCr 4:4:4 4K24p 10bit.
And that would require the Epson 5040UB to have a 18Gbps HDMI chipset, instead of the currently limited 10Gbps.

Please feel free to correct me if this logic is not correct, as I am still learning these concepts


----------



## ht guy

Dave Harper said:


> ...It appears that modes can be forced on the Oppo 203 so we can pretty much get there using that player. The problem with the UB900 is that it only has two setting for things like HDR etc., AUTO and OFF. The 203 has AUTO, ON (forced) and OFF. We need Panasonic to update FW to add a forced ON mode, or Epson to update there's to add RGB 4K 24p HDR BT2020 10bit 4:2:0. It should be able to and there's no reason why it doesn't since it accepts the exact same thing in YCbCr mode instead of RGB.


Dave,

I get that you're talking about using RGB vs YCbCr, but don't the current HV settings require forced HDR from the player? If so, is the UB900 an option for your settings?


----------



## Dave Harper

Haiej said:


> Hi guys
> 
> From what I understand conceptually:
> 
> - YCbCr 4:2:0 = lossy color subsampling
> 
> - YCbCr 4:2:2 = lossy color subsampling
> 
> - with all due respect to Dave, there is no RGB 4:2:0 (as in, "RGB" is lossless color and "4:2:0" is lossy color, so not mutually applicable), because RGB = (is similar to) = YCbCr 4:4:4 = lossless color
> 
> 
> 
> The chart in attachment explains Dave test results:
> 
> - 4K UHD player outputs RGB 4K24p 8 bit, and the Epson 5040UB successfully accepts it
> 
> - 4K UHD player outputs RGB 4K24p 10 bit, but the Epson 5040UB does not accepts it
> 
> 
> 
> If you set your 4K UHD player to output RGB 4K24p 10 bit, it would be similar as setting to player to output lossles YCbCr 4:4:4 4K24p 10bit.
> 
> And that would require the Epson 5040UB to have a 18Gbps HDMI chipset, instead of the currently limited 10Gbps.
> 
> 
> 
> Please feel free to correct me if this logic is not correct, as I am still learning these concepts



Yes, correct. Sorry I was cutting and pasting between threads and posts. 

I agree the 10 bits is the limitation for the 5040. I was able to get 4K24p RGB 10 bit HDR WCG when I used the JVC rs600, which has 18Gbps HDMI Ports. 

Thanks for keeping us in line and on focus!


----------



## aaranddeeman

Watch "The Great Wall". The content may not be for all, but it's a demo material. And I am not even talking about UHD, just the Blu ray.


----------



## panman40

aaranddeeman said:


> Watch "The Great Wall". The content may not be for all, but it's a demo material. And I am not even talking about UHD, just the Blu ray.


I'm waiting for this one in 3D, it's supposed to be excellent.


----------



## Jameshtx

Dave Harper said:


> And here are my "HarperVision Experience" settings using the HDR signal capability on Bright Cinema Mode in the 5040, based on a great custom gamma that oledurt sent to me, but tweaked slightly for my tastes. Maybe he will share his as well if he hasn't already.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings: 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,28,0
> 
> There's been many iterations of this gamma in my testing, especially at the top end, so this can change and probably will, especially with your personal tweaks if you can share.
> 
> (I'll edit this and update all the menu settings here when I am able to get back to my 5040)


Just need confirmation that the above setting is for Harpervision for the Epson 5040ub and compatible with Oppo 203 as uhd player?? thanks


----------



## Haiej

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, correct. Sorry I was cutting and pasting between threads and posts.
> 
> I agree the 10 bits is the limitation for the 5040. I was able to get 4K24p RGB 10 bit HDR WCG when I used the JVC rs600, which has 18Gbps HDMI Ports.
> 
> Thanks for keeping us in line and on focus!


Thanks.
As I understand, per the attached chart, the Epson 5040UB should be able to accept the options highlighted in green (below the 10Gbps HDMI chipset limit):
- UHD 4K Player ouput at RGB = YCbCr 4:4:4 4K24p 8bit
- UHD 4K Player ouput at YCbCr 4:2:0 4K24p 10bit
- UHD 4K Player ouput at YCbCr 4:2:2 4K24p 10bit (


----------



## jim94025

Help with Motion issues
Just got my 5040 installed and watched a few movies (1080p blurrays/ out of the box settings) and while the brightness, detail and percieved sharpness compared to my JVC RS40 were significantly better, the motion is a disaster. Anything fast seems jittery and gives me a HA, almost nauseating. I am sensitive to these issues as I always see color wheels, etc... but this is a real problem for me. Is it the nature of this projector? A few on AVS have mentioned issues with motion, but most seem happy.
Is there something in the menu I should change?? If I can't fix this, there is no way I can keep this projector 
Any help appreciated
Jim


----------



## seplant

jim94025 said:


> Help with Motion issues
> Just got my 5040 installed and watched a few movies (1080p blurrays/ out of the box settings) and while the brightness, detail and percieved sharpness compared to my JVC RS40 were significantly better, the motion is a disaster. Anything fast seems jittery and gives me a HA, almost nauseating. I am sensitive to these issues as I always see color wheels, etc... but this is a real problem for me. Is it the nature of this projector? A few on AVS have mentioned issues with motion, but most seem happy.
> Is there something in the menu I should change?? If I can't fix this, there is no way I can keep this projector
> Any help appreciated
> Jim


Which setting do you have selected under Signal > Advanced > Image Processing? Fast or Fine? I have found that if set on Fast, the image can be jittery if there is fast motion. This setting also disables Frame Interpolation. If set to Fine, the motion is significantly smoother, although not perfect. You can also turn on Frame Interpolation when Image Processing is set to Fine, and it works okay in slow moving scenes, but not very well when there is fast action or if there are multiple elements moving in a scene.


----------



## panman40

seplant said:


> Which setting do you have selected under Signal > Advanced > Image Processing? Fast or Fine? I have found that if set on Fast, the image can be jittery if there is fast motion. This setting also disables Frame Interpolation. If set to Fine, the motion is significantly smoother, although not perfect. You can also turn on Frame Interpolation when Image Processing is set to Fine, and it works okay in slow moving scenes, but not very well when there is fast action or if there are multiple elements moving in a scene.


I have found similar, I sometimes use fast for 3D depending on how motion is with that title, Fine is the way to go but as you say motion isn't perfect on the Epson, static scenes have fantastic detail/resoloution but even the slowest of motion/camera panning makes the detail blurry, compared to my previous Sony though there is much less film judder which can be just as annoying. I never use Fi as there's to many glitches.


----------



## xiaNaix

panman40 said:


> I have found similar, I sometimes use fast for 3D depending on how motion is with that title, Fine is the way to go but as you say motion isn't perfect on the Epson, static scenes have fantastic detail/resoloution but even the slowest of motion/camera panning makes the detail blurry, compared to my previous Sony though there is much less film judder which can be just as annoying. I never use Fi as there's to many glitches.


I'm not a "sports" guy but would the Sony VPLHW45ES be a better option for me than the 5040UB if I watch a lot of pro wrestling and MMA?


----------



## panman40

xiaNaix said:


> I'm not a "sports" guy but would the Sony VPLHW45ES be a better option for me than the 5040UB if I watch a lot of pro wrestling and MMA?


I don't watch sports either so can't really help with that, also I'm in the uk with 50hz for TV feeds as opposed to your 60hz.


----------



## jim94025

seplant said:


> Which setting do you have selected under Signal > Advanced > Image Processing? Fast or Fine? I have found that if set on Fast, the image can be jittery if there is fast motion. This setting also disables Frame Interpolation. If set to Fine, the motion is significantly smoother, although not perfect. You can also turn on Frame Interpolation when Image Processing is set to Fine, and it works okay in slow moving scenes, but not very well when there is fast action or if there are multiple elements moving in a scene.


Just checked, Image Processing was already on fine. Tried watching with Frame Interpolation off as well and while a bit better, motion is still bothersome. I also tried with Image Enhancement off and it didn't make much of a motion difference, but did downgrade the picture quality a bit. Crap! Any other thoughts out there? Is this just how this machine handles motion? Are the JVC's just better at dealing with motion?


----------



## zgraen3721

jim94025 said:


> Help with Motion issues
> Just got my 5040 installed and watched a few movies (1080p blurrays/ out of the box settings) and while the brightness, detail and percieved sharpness compared to my JVC RS40 were significantly better, the motion is a disaster. Anything fast seems jittery and gives me a HA, almost nauseating. I am sensitive to these issues as I always see color wheels, etc... but this is a real problem for me. Is it the nature of this projector? A few on AVS have mentioned issues with motion, but most seem happy.
> Is there something in the menu I should change?? If I can't fix this, there is no way I can keep this projector
> Any help appreciated
> Jim


Right there with you. Its not just you. Motion handling on this projector is very poor and the frame interpolation is a pretty huge let down as well. With FI enabled, any motion is riddled with artifacts.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

jim94025 said:


> Just checked, Image Processing was already on fine. Tried watching with Frame Interpolation off as well and while a bit better, motion is still bothersome. I also tried with Image Enhancement off and it didn't make much of a motion difference, but did downgrade the picture quality a bit. Crap! Any other thoughts out there? Is this just how this machine handles motion? Are the JVC's just better at dealing with motion?


If you read the posts in the JVC threads, there are complaints about motion there also. In fact, I'm pretty sure people have jumped from JVC to Epson specifically because of the way they handle motion. It really comes down to personal preference and tolerance level. Your best bet is probably being patient and waiting (hoping) for 4K 3-DLP projectors to become affordable. Hopefully in our lifetimes!


----------



## jim94025

seplant said:


> If you read the posts in the JVC threads, there are complaints about motion there also. In fact, I'm pretty sure people have jumped from JVC to Epson specifically because of the way they handle motion. It really comes down to personal preference and tolerance level. Your best bet is probably being patient and waiting (hoping) for 4K 3-DLP projectors to become affordable. Hopefully in our lifetimes!


My old JVC RS40 handled motion just fine, so is it something about the newer units? e-shift??????
Jim


----------



## GregCh

jim94025 said:


> My old JVC RS40 handled motion just fine, so is it something about the newer units? e-shift??????
> Jim


No, the Epson 5040, 6040 just doesn't handle motion well at all.

The JVC people have been complaining about the new models 420, 520, 620 have a bad bug that results when CMD (JVCs motion enhancement) is turned on. When you use JVC's CMD it results in severe vertical banding. It is a bug. Supposedly it is being fixed with firmware but who knows. The older e-shift 400, 500, 600 didn't have the issue. 

Sony has the best motion handling. JVC has the best optics and best black levels. Epson has the best price. All have pluses and minuses.


----------



## panman40

GregCh said:


> No, the Epson 5040, 6040 just doesn't handle motion well at all.
> 
> The JVC people have been complaining about the new models 420, 520, 620 have a bad bug that results when CMD (JVCs motion enhancement) is turned on. When you use JVC's CMD it results in severe vertical banding. It is a bug. Supposedly it is being fixed with firmware but who knows. The older e-shift 400, 500, 600 didn't have the issue.
> 
> Sony has the best motion handling. JVC has the best optics and best black levels. Epson has the best price. All have pluses and minuses.


I've not had the chance to see jvc motion, that's a pretty fair sum up though. My previous Sony hw65es handled motion a little better overall but did show film judder a lot more ( correct or not I don't know).
For general tv use (50hz in UK) I find selecting 'Video' helps with a few deinterlacing issues like combing with lesser quality broadcasts rather than using the default 'Film/Auto' setting.

As you say though it makes sense to demo as not everything gets seen in reviews alone and what may suit one person may not be good to another.


----------



## Dave Harper

Haiej said:


> Thanks.
> 
> As I understand, per the attached chart, the Epson 5040UB should be able to accept the options highlighted in green (below the 10Gbps HDMI chipset limit):
> 
> - UHD 4K Player ouput at RGB = YCbCr 4:4:4 4K24p 8bit
> 
> - UHD 4K Player ouput at YCbCr 4:2:0 4K24p 10bit
> 
> - UHD 4K Player ouput at YCbCr 4:2:2 4K24p 10bit (


----------



## Haiej

Dave Harper said:


> I wouldn't call those the "Holy Grail" settings though. The one I think will be now would be your first one, sending 4K24p RGB HDR bt2020 since it was reported lately, and I agree, that RGB is sharper and more detailed than YCbCr. Probably due to the decoder in the UB900 being better than the Epson's.


Ok, I understand.
You suspect the Epsons have a poor YCbCr-to-RGB decoding implementation.
So you are trying to avoid/bypass the Epsons YCbCr-to-RGB decoding, by instead using a UHD Player that can better perform the YCbCr-to-RGB decoding itself, and then deliver already decoded RGB to the Epsons.
Issue is:
- UHD 4K Player ouput at RGB 4K24p 8bit = This would be ok for SDR (8bit), but not for HDR (which requires 10bit, to avoid banding, due to increased steps between darkness and brightness)
- UHD 4K Player ouput at RGB 4K24p 10bit = This would be ok for HDR (10bit), but unfortunately the Epson does not accepts this particular combination due to its 10Gbps HDMI chipset input limit.

It looks like for these Epson generation models, no "Holy Grail" ...
I am "praying" that the next Epson models (5050UB ?) have 18Gbps HDMI chipsets (like the current JVC RS420 does), but at this nice Epson price range.
Its almost 2018 (HDMI 2.1 @ 48Gbps), who still uses legacy 10Gbps HDMI chipsets anyway, right ?


----------



## Lesmor

Dave Harper said:


> That is my first unofficial version I guess you'd say. It's not really the one most are talking about right now though.
> 
> That one is for Bright Cinema Mode, which doesn't offer the bt2020/DCI-P3 filter and you leave in HDR mode.
> 
> The newer one you uses Digital Cinema Mode in SDR with my custom gamma and settings, which also maintains the P3 Filter. Click on the link below my signature for those settings and gamma.


Without wishing to cause offence because I do use Harpervison Digital Cinema settings
Thought I read somewhere that Oledurt thought the same, but then commented that he found that Bright Cinema does use the DCI-P3 filter?


----------



## philipbtz

zgraen3721 said:


> Right there with you. Its not just you. Motion handling on this projector is very poor and the frame interpolation is a pretty huge let down as well. With FI enabled, any motion is riddled with artifacts.
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


I agree. But I sometimes wonder if some of these early UHD discs have some of this judder in them. I've read reviews on UHD discs where they have commented on the motion being different between discs. The problem is that I'm kinda getting use to it now also but when I first switched from my BenQ w1070 DLP to the TW9300 I noticed straight away that pans were not nearly as good on this projector. 

On the other hand sharpness, black level(!), colors, noise and pretty much everything else blows that projector out of the water. The Sony projectors do in general have very good motion but then you read about the rising black levels on their panels and it seems like a lot of people are having problems with this. When you start looking deeper into all the offerings from Epson, Sony and JVC they all have their respective problems. The biggest with both Sony and JVC 4k options being that they are so expensive. At least in my country we are talking about 60% more money for a JVC X5500 compared to the TW9300. And then you start looking at lamp costs..


----------



## mzingali

*projector mounting help*

Hi All, 
I did a search for this topic but this thread is what I found. I'm purchasing an Epson 5040UB soon and need help on how to install it correctly. The mount will be 11' from the screen. The room is only 13' x 16'. Is there a thread on how to figure out how much of a down pipe to use when mounting upside down? I'm very new at this. I've looked up mounts and I see flush mounts and extended mounts with 3' poles. I plan on setting up a 5.1.4 and all the wiring is done.

Also, since my media room is small, how do you determine the best size for the screen? Do I go with a 92" or 120"? or bigger? This is my first media room so any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Mike


----------



## Viche

Dave Harper said:


> That is my first unofficial version I guess you'd say. It's not really the one most are talking about right now though.
> 
> That one is for Bright Cinema Mode, which doesn't offer the bt2020/DCI-P3 filter and you leave in HDR mode.
> 
> The newer one you uses Digital Cinema Mode in SDR with my custom gamma and settings, which also maintains the P3 Filter. Click on the link below my signature for those settings and gamma.


 Thanks for putting that in your signature. Any chance you'd be willing to post the bright cinema harpervision settings in that thread?


----------



## Viche

Looking for an affordable, low table to sit my 65 inch FS8000 on until I decide where I want to mount it. Any suggestions? Found this one at Walmart which looked like it might work. I'd rather avoid laminate wood/mdf.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Innovex-Oxford-Black-TV-Stand-for-TVs-up-to-65/25507773

Also, I've heard the rule with projector screens that they should be mounted so that your eyes are about 1/3 up from the bottom of the screen, but with an LCD TV, wouldn't level with the middle of the screen, or 1/3 from the top, so that your eyes are level with the eyes of actors on screen be better?


----------



## jim94025

philipbtz said:


> I agree. But I sometimes wonder if some of these early UHD discs have some of this judder in them. I've read reviews on UHD discs where they have commented on the motion being different between discs. The problem is that I'm kinda getting use to it now also but when I first switched from my BenQ w1070 DLP to the TW9300 I noticed straight away that pans were not nearly as good on this projector.
> 
> On the other hand sharpness, black level(!), colors, noise and pretty much everything else blows that projector out of the water. The Sony projectors do in general have very good motion but then you read about the rising black levels on their panels and it seems like a lot of people are having problems with this. When you start looking deeper into all the offerings from Epson, Sony and JVC they all have their respective problems. The biggest with both Sony and JVC 4k options being that they are so expensive. At least in my country we are talking about 60% more money for a JVC X5500 compared to the TW9300. And then you start looking at lamp costs..


Are there any other settings to try before I take this Epson down and go theu the hassle of sending it back? I just cant understand why more people have't mentioned this motion issue on this forum. Yes, I'm sensitive to this issue, but man, this is a big deal.Watching pano's and action is like being on a roller coaster in how it affects my brain. Nothing like that with my JVC RS40. Anyone have experience comparing the 5040 to a JVC RS400/500, in terms of motion, sharpness, 
detail, etc....


----------



## gene4ht

aaranddeeman said:


> Watch "The Great Wall". The content may not be for all, but it's a demo material. And I am not even talking about UHD, just the Blu ray.


Watched this last night and agree that the BluRay is both Audio and Video demo worthy...


----------



## Lesmor

jim94025 said:


> Are there any other settings to try before I take this Epson down and go theu the hassle of sending it back? I just cant understand why more people have't mentioned this motion issue on this forum. Yes, I'm sensitive to this issue, but man, this is a big deal.Watching pano's and action is like being on a roller coaster in how it affects my brain. Nothing like that with my JVC RS40. Anyone have experience comparing the 5040 to a JVC RS400/500, in terms of motion, sharpness,
> detail, etc....


My only suggestion would be to try 4K Enhancement > Image preset mode at different settings,start with the highest
I have been told it is similar to Sony motionflow


----------



## philipbtz

jim94025 said:


> Are there any other settings to try before I take this Epson down and go theu the hassle of sending it back? I just cant understand why more people have't mentioned this motion issue on this forum. Yes, I'm sensitive to this issue, but man, this is a big deal.Watching pano's and action is like being on a roller coaster in how it affects my brain. Nothing like that with my JVC RS40. Anyone have experience comparing the 5040 to a JVC RS400/500, in terms of motion, sharpness,
> detail, etc....


Try different source material. Try a BD that you know should look smooth for example. No use comparing to the JVC in my opinion it's a whole different price point 50-60% more money. The Sonys are a big gamble imo. Black level issues might lead to bad second hand price when selling later on. I'd look at a DLP since at least my last one seemed to have really good motion. But then you have to deal with gray blacks. Maybe you can live with the motion interpolation of the 5040? It does decrease judder quite a bit from what I remember.

Edit: When reading around it seems like all projector panel types except DLP have some sort of motion issues. Atm I can live with them because the blacks matter more to me. It's cnet..but I find this pretty accurate https://www.cnet.com/news/dlp-vs-lcd-vs-lcos-projector-tech-pros-and-cons/


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> Without wishing to cause offence because I do use Harpervison Digital Cinema settings
> Thought I read somewhere that Oledurt thought the same, but then commented that he found that Bright Cinema does use the DCI-P3 filter?


I am very interested in this!


----------



## schmidtwi

aaranddeeman said:


> Watch "The Great Wall". The content may not be for all, but it's a demo material. And I am not even talking about UHD, just the Blu ray.




Absolutely stunning in UHD & ATMOS. Definitely demo material. Highly recommend!


.


----------



## Jameshtx

gene4ht said:


> Watched this last night and agree that the BluRay is both Audio and Video demo worthy...




Anyone know if the Redbox version same quality? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Jameshtx said:


> Anyone know if the Redbox version same quality?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Don't know. Although I typically rent from both Redbox and Family Video, this BD title with Atmos was from FV.


----------



## Dave Harper

Lesmor said:


> Without wishing to cause offence because I do use Harpervison Digital Cinema settings
> 
> Thought I read somewhere that Oledurt thought the same, but then commented that he found that Bright Cinema does use the DCI-P3 filter?



No it does not use the filter. I believe he commented that his calibrator said it was very close except for green to P3 even without the filter, but when I measured it, it wasn't that close and there is a benefit to using Digital Cinema with the filter. 




Haiej said:


> Ok, I understand.
> You suspect the Epsons have a poor YCbCr-to-RGB decoding implementation.
> 
> So you are trying to avoid/bypass the Epsons YCbCr-to-RGB decoding, by instead using a UHD Player that can better perform the YCbCr-to-RGB decoding itself, and then deliver already decoded RGB to the Epsons.
> Issue is:
> - UHD 4K Player ouput at RGB 4K24p 8bit = This would be ok for SDR (8bit), but not for HDR (which requires 10bit, to avoid banding, due to increased steps between darkness and brightness)
> - UHD 4K Player ouput at RGB 4K24p 10bit = This would be ok for HDR (10bit), but unfortunately the Epson does not accepts this particular combination due to its 10Gbps HDMI chipset input limit.
> 
> It looks like for these Epson generation models, no "Holy Grail" ...
> I am "praying" that the next Epson models (5050UB ?) have 18Gbps HDMI chipsets (like the current JVC RS420 does), but at this nice Epson price range.
> Its almost 2018 (HDMI 2.1 @ 48Gbps), who still uses legacy 10Gbps HDMI chipsets anyway, right ?



Yes that's right, although for some reason even in 8 bit mode I didn't notice any banding. Maybe it has great dithering algorithms? It was really good and I can only imagine better if it could accept it. 

Sorry, sometimes I mix things up when I'm talking about this unit and the LS10000 since I am messing with the same things on both!


----------



## aaranddeeman

Jameshtx said:


> Anyone know if the Redbox version same quality?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes. I watched the redbox copy only.


----------



## ac388

*Improved path to Holy Grail !!!*

Hi Dave,

Just to sum it up n make sure I don't misunderstand your observation ...

'RGB Video level at 8 bit' gives a better picture quality than 'YCrCb 4:2:2 at 12 bit' for HDR when using Harpervision settings ... correct ??? 

Is it possible the settings on 5040 is SDR so you did not see any banding ?

Thanks in advance 








Dave Harper said:


> No it does not use the filter. I believe he commented that his calibrator said it was very close except for green to P3 even without the filter, but when I measured it, it wasn't that close and there is a benefit to using Digital Cinema with the filter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that's right, although for some reason even in 8 bit mode I didn't notice any banding. Maybe it has great dithering algorithms? It was really good and I can only imagine better if it could accept it.
> 
> Sorry, sometimes I mix things up when I'm talking about this unit and the LS10000 since I am messing with the same things on both!


----------



## KKfromLA

Hey guys,
I am finally getting around to setting up my Epson 5040ub and it is time to buy a 4k blu ray player. Without going through hundreds of pages, I recall there were issues with most in getting the 4k HDR through... has this since been addressed? Which player would you recommend? Has the Xbox 1S issues been fixed in this regard?

TIA!


----------



## Dave Harper

ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Just to sum it up n make sure I don't misunderstand your observation ...
> 
> 'RGB Video level at 8 bit' gives a better picture quality than 'YCrCb 4:2:2 at 12 bit' for HDR when using Harpervision settings ... correct ???
> 
> Is it possible the settings on 5040 is SDR so you did not see any banding ?
> 
> Thanks in advance



I don't feel comfortable saying that yet. I haven't had time to do any real testing for a decent amount of time. 

Yes that's possible. I tried so many things trying to get the full signal that the one I recall seeing and watching for awhile could have been the SDR 8 bit version. 

I'll do much more in depth testing when I get back.


----------



## Azekecse

schmidtwi said:


> Absolutely stunning in UHD & ATMOS. Definitely demo material. Highly recommend!
> 
> 
> .


I concur, this is a reference movie, not much for dialogue exchange, but worthy popcorn flick, I've watched it twice already...:nerd:

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## gnolivos

To those complaining about motion issues, I was the first to bring it up several months back. I don't know what has happened, but over time for ME the motion issues are gone. It's either because my brain got used to it, or perhaps because the brightness has degraded from the new bulb to a point where the motion issues are not as radical anymore.

I am really quite sure that the motion / flickering issues are more prominent with brighter images/settings. I did some testing and concluded that.

Bottom line, I am no longer bothered by it at all. I love this projector.


----------



## panman40

gnolivos said:


> To those complaining about motion issues, I was the first to bring it up several months back. I don't know what has happened, but over time for ME the motion issues are gone. It's either because my brain got used to it, or perhaps because the brightness has degraded from the new bulb to a point where the motion issues are not as radical anymore.
> 
> I am really quite sure that the motion / flickering issues are more prominent with brighter images/settings. I did some testing and concluded that.
> 
> Bottom line, I am no longer bothered by it at all. I love this projector.


Lol


----------



## hgmobile

*Streaming 4K (Roku) vs 1080p*

Sorry if this question has been asked before but while I wait for my unit to be delivered I was wondering what the collective wisdom was on streaming netflix or Amazon. Does image look better when streamed in 4K vs streamed in 1080 and pixel shifted.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ccodlin

*Projector Has Completely Shut Down (5040ube)*

I have had my Epson 5040ube for a little over a month. It is ceiling mounted and has functioned flawlessly the entire time. Last night we watched a movie and put it on standby just as we have every time we've used the projector. Today I went to turn it on and the unit is completely unresponsive. None of the lights come on (or even flicker), the lens cap stays shut, and there is absolutely no indication of anything happening. I have confirmed that the remote batteries are ok, I have confirmed that the outlet that the projector is plugged into is fully functional, and I have checked all of the power cord connections. The power button on the unit itself doesn't cause any response, either. 

Any ideas?

Much thanks...


----------



## drhankz

ccodlin said:


> Any ideas?


Why Not Call Epson Tomorrow?


----------



## ccodlin

drhankz said:


> Why Not Call Epson Tomorrow?


That is, of course, the plan. But wanted to see if someone here had encountered this problem and knew what the solution might be.


----------



## robc1976

Not projector related but figured somebody here would have ideas since its xbox 1s related. When I have xbox 1s on I get a high frequency whine thru my speakers and when I pause or its a quite game I hear it and its driving me crazy. If I switch to Blu-ray whine is gone immediatly. Projector is NOT on so its not it.

I have done the following with no success

1. Used a power cord away from all wires
2. Used different HDMI
3. Turn 4K resolution off
4. Tried surround and stereo mode
5. Tried different HDMI port on AVR


----------



## Snoogleheimer

drhankz said:


> Why Not Call Epson Tomorrow?


It Is Not Needed, Nor Proper, To Capitalize Every Word In A Sentence.


----------



## impetigo

ccodlin said:


> That is, of course, the plan. But wanted to see if someone here had encountered this problem and knew what the solution might be.


Same thing happened (worked fine last time I used it then one day even the red power light was out and it wouldn't turn on) to my AE8000U for no reason and I sent it in for repairs (1 month before warranty ended!) and they said the circuit board was damaged. No idea why but possibly a surge even though I used a surge protector.


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

jim94025 said:


> Are there any other settings to try before I take this Epson down and go theu the hassle of sending it back? I just cant understand why more people have't mentioned this motion issue on this forum. Yes, I'm sensitive to this issue, but man, this is a big deal.Watching pano's and action is like being on a roller coaster in how it affects my brain. Nothing like that with my JVC RS40. Anyone have experience comparing the 5040 to a JVC RS400/500, in terms of motion, sharpness,
> detail, etc....


Just jumping in here on a flyer- is your BD player sending 24fps or 60fps to the projector? Does that affect this issue you are seeing?


----------



## philipbtz

KKfromLA said:


> Hey guys,
> I am finally getting around to setting up my Epson 5040ub and it is time to buy a 4k blu ray player. Without going through hundreds of pages, I recall there were issues with most in getting the 4k HDR through... has this since been addressed? Which player would you recommend? Has the Xbox 1S issues been fixed in this regard?
> 
> TIA!


Panasonic UB700/UB900 is the way to go at the moment. I have the Xbox One S and they say that it's fixed but not for me. Stick with a real player like the UB700.


----------



## KKfromLA

philipbtz said:


> Panasonic UB700/UB900 is the way to go at the moment. I have the Xbox One S and they say that it's fixed but not for me. Stick with a real player like the UB700.


Wow that thing is expensive. I was hoping the xbox issues were fixed because I can also use it for all the streaming services... knock out two birds with one stone. I guess not


----------



## robc1976

KKfromLA said:


> Wow that thing is expensive. I was hoping the xbox issues were fixed because I can also use it for all the streaming services... knock out two birds with one stone. I guess not


I have the UB900 and its a fantastic player but only sends HDR RGB 8bit and the opp 203 I believe does 4:2:2 HDR RGB 10 bit so I may switch to that if dave Harper "Harper vision" thinks its better.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I have the UB900 and its a fantastic player but only sends HDR RGB 8bit and the opp 203 I believe does 4:2:2 HDR RGB 10 bit so I may switch to that if dave Harper "Harper vision" thinks its better.



As was stated RGB is 4:4:4. I copied that wrong in my posts while cross posting a bunch of stuff. Sorry. Yes the issue is only getting 8 bit, but that's a limitation of the projector itself. The issue is with the Panny you can't force HDR WCG but with the 203 you can, but it's still limited to 8 bit because of the projectors 10.2Gbps HDMI input bandwidth limitation.


----------



## philipbtz

Dave Harper said:


> As was stated RGB is 4:4:4. I copied that wrong in my posts while cross posting a bunch of stuff. Sorry. Yes the issue is only getting 8 bit, but that's a limitation of the projector itself. The issue is with the Panny you can't force HDR WCG but with the 203 you can, but it's still limited to 8 bit because of the projectors 10.2Gbps HDMI input bandwidth limitation.


Why would you need to force HDR WCG? All discs have this and the once that don't shouldn't. 

@robc1976 

4:2:2 HDR RGB 10 bit does not make sense. RGB is uncompressed color. The projector doesn't support RGB 10b HDR as that's equivalent to YCrCb 4:4:4 10b HDR(pretty much from what I understand it). Theoretically it seems like RGB would be better though I'm no expert. The Panasonics for sure send the correct color and even better it does it better than any other player including the Oppos.


----------



## Azekecse

ccodlin said:


> That is, of course, the plan. But wanted to see if someone here had encountered this problem and knew what the solution might be.


I experienced it once, I unplugged the power cable for ~30sec. and it starting working again and I haven't had any other issues. If this issue repeats itself I would definitely contact Epson, it could be a control board issue.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## robc1976

philipbtz said:


> Why would you need to force HDR WCG? All discs have this and the once that don't shouldn't.
> 
> [MENTION=83133 43]robc1976[/MENTION]
> 
> 4:2:2 HDR RGB 10 bit does not make sense. RGB is uncompressed color. The projector doesn't support RGB 10b HDR as that's equivalent to YCrCb 4:4:4 10b HDR(pretty much from what I understand it). Theoretically it seems like RGB would be better though I'm no expert. The Panasonics for sure send the correct color and even better it does it better than any other player including the Oppos.


I stand corrected, I had it backwards lol


----------



## ccodlin

Azekecse said:


> I experienced it once, I unplugged the power cable for ~30sec. and it starting working again and I haven't had any other issues. If this issue repeats itself I would definitely contact Epson, it could be a control board issue.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Thanks, Azeke. I called Epson this AM and walked them through the issue. As a result, they are shipping me a brand new projector today. Really great customer service experience. Hopefully no problems going forward. 

Thanks to all who responded!


----------



## swyda038

ccodlin said:


> I have had my Epson 5040ube for a little over a month. It is ceiling mounted and has functioned flawlessly the entire time. Last night we watched a movie and put it on standby just as we have every time we've used the projector. Today I went to turn it on and the unit is completely unresponsive. None of the lights come on (or even flicker), the lens cap stays shut, and there is absolutely no indication of anything happening. I have confirmed that the remote batteries are ok, I have confirmed that the outlet that the projector is plugged into is fully functional, and I have checked all of the power cord connections. The power button on the unit itself doesn't cause any response, either.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Much thanks...


Same thing happened to me. Had the projector for less then 2 months. Everything worked great and then one morning I go to turn it on and nothing. No lights, no shutter open, no sounds, nothing. Confirmed that the outlet was good, etc. Called Crutchfield and they had no clue other then they thought that something on the power board failed for whatever reason. They sent me a new one and everything is working great.


----------



## Dave Harper

philipbtz said:


> Why would you need to force HDR WCG? All discs have this and the once that don't shouldn't.
> 
> 
> 
> @robc1976
> 
> 
> 
> 4:2:2 HDR RGB 10 bit does not make sense. RGB is uncompressed color. The projector doesn't support RGB 10b HDR as that's equivalent to YCrCb 4:4:4 10b HDR(pretty much from what I understand it). Theoretically it seems like RGB would be better though I'm no expert. The Panasonics for sure send the correct color and even better it does it better than any other player including the Oppos.



I guess "force" is the wrong word maybe, but what happens is you only get RGB SDR rec709 8 bit with the UB900. Another user reported being able to send RGB HDR bt2020 8 bit with an Oppo 203.


----------



## BuGsArEtAsTy

KKfromLA said:


> Wow that thing is expensive. I was hoping the xbox issues were fixed because I can also use it for all the streaming services... knock out two birds with one stone. I guess not


Panasonic UB400 is out now in some places.


----------



## Whopper80

*Harpervision*

Hi,

I used the parameters of the Harpervision settings last night and tested it with the UHD 4k HDR version of Planet Earth 2. While it seems to pull slightly more information out of the dark areas at the cost of a lower brightness (even when lamp power is set to high), it doesn't seem to improve the image a lot compared to the BrightAutoHDR settings on BrightCinema, so I am wondering if I there is something I am not seeing or if I just expected something different.

Can somebody give me an example of what the HarperVision settings improve compared to the BrightAutoHDR settings on BrightCinema so I can compare my results?

Thanks!


----------



## Snoogleheimer

ccodlin said:


> Thanks, Azeke. I called Epson this AM and walked them through the issue. As a result, they are shipping me a brand new projector today. Really great customer service experience. Hopefully no problems going forward.
> Thanks to all who responded!


That's really good to know. I heard their customer service was awesome. This is one of the reasons I bought the 5040. I'm still extremely happy with this projector. It's my first and I'm blown away.


----------



## pjvader

Whopper80 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I used the parameters of the Harpervision settings last night and tested it with the UHD 4k HDR version of Planet Earth 2. While it seems to pull slightly more information out of the dark areas at the cost of a lower brightness (even when lamp power is set to high), it doesn't seem to improve the image a lot compared to the BrightAutoHDR settings on BrightCinema, so I am wondering if I there is something I am not seeing or if I just expected something different.
> 
> Can somebody give me an example of what the HarperVision settings improve compared to the BrightAutoHDR settings on BrightCinema so I can compare my results?
> 
> Thanks!


i might be completely wrong (i'm sure i will be corrected) but i think it is so we can use the P3 colour filter in the digital cinema setting, as the P3 is not used in bright mode


----------



## longhornsk57

I may have missed this in the OP or another thread, but is there any list of compatible 3D glasses for this PJ?

I am thinking of getting one, and I';d need like 10 pairs.


----------



## drhankz

ccodlin said:


> Thanks, Azeke. I called Epson this AM and walked them through the issue. As a result, they are shipping me a brand new projector today. Really great customer service experience. Hopefully no problems going forward.
> 
> Thanks to all who responded!


I hope you see my response was the right thing to do. 

I am a man of few words and you had done the correct
debugging, there was not anything left to do.


----------



## jwhn

KKfromLA said:


> Wow that thing is expensive. I was hoping the xbox issues were fixed because I can also use it for all the streaming services... knock out two birds with one stone. I guess not


For what it's worth, I've now tested the Panasonic UB900, Sony, Samsung, and XBox 1s. They all worked fine for me for HDR (even the Xbox with the new update). The Panny, Sony, and Samsung all worked for Netflix HDR but not Amazon. The XBox 1s is the opposite - Amazon HDR works but not Netflix.

In terms of the UHD performance I think you would be hard pressed to tell the difference in quality unless you have a great eye for that sort of thing and you have near ideal viewing conditions.


----------



## Dave Harper

Whopper80 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I used the parameters of the Harpervision settings last night and tested it with the UHD 4k HDR version of Planet Earth 2. While it seems to pull slightly more information out of the dark areas at the cost of a lower brightness (even when lamp power is set to high), it doesn't seem to improve the image a lot compared to the BrightAutoHDR settings on BrightCinema, so I am wondering if I there is something I am not seeing or if I just expected something different.
> 
> Can somebody give me an example of what the HarperVision settings improve compared to the BrightAutoHDR settings on BrightCinema so I can compare my results?
> 
> Thanks!



I've noticed in my playing that just moving the gamma settings up or down a few clicks can make a marked improvement (or worse too!) in the quality, depth and detail of the image you're seeing. This is why I said my settings are a baseline to to adjust them to taste and environment and experience. Don't be afraid to try that because you have my settings to fall back to if you need to. 




pjvader said:


> i might be completely wrong (i'm sure i will be corrected) but i think it is so we can use the P3 colour filter in the digital cinema setting, as the P3 is not used in bright mode



Yes, that is a big reason, and doing so you naturally lose some light output due to the filter in place. Just watch it for awhile and you'll start to see the better colors and image than just ore brightness alone. Remember, BT2020/P3 encompasses bt709, so for any normal color within the 709 gamut, it _should_ look exactly the same. It will only look different and more "colorful" when the source actually has that wider gamut to be produced, outside the 709 gamut.


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks. Await your new findings before u get rid of your 5040.



Dave Harper said:


> I don't feel comfortable saying that yet. I haven't had time to do any real testing for a decent amount of time.
> 
> Yes that's possible. I tried so many things trying to get the full signal that the one I recall seeing and watching for awhile could have been the SDR 8 bit version.
> 
> I'll do much more in depth testing when I get back.


----------



## john barlow

Could any owners of this projector that have performed the currently offered firmware upgrade for the 5040 share some insight with me on any positive improvements they've noted. I am somewhat puzzled that it's not talked about much. In my Oppo 203 thread, buzz about firmware is non stop.


----------



## impetigo

john barlow said:


> Could any owners of this projector that have performed the currently offered firmware upgrade for the 5040 share some insight with me on any positive improvements they've noted. I am somewhat puzzled that it's not talked about much. In my Oppo 203 thread, buzz about firmware is non stop.


Not trying to hijack your question, but I'm curious how to check for firmware updates. Doesn't seem to be a way for the device to check for updates, which is too bad since it supports wifi. Also curious what the newest firmware offers/changes.


----------



## robc1976

impetigo said:


> Not trying to hijack your question, but I'm curious how to check for firmware updates. Doesn't seem to be a way for the device to check for updates, which is too bad since it supports wifi. Also curious what the newest firmware offers/changes.


 you download to a usb jump drive and plug into back of projector.


----------



## robc1976

Does anyone here know if this is latest firmware? Attached pic


----------



## Azekecse

robc1976 said:


> Does anyone here know if this is latest firmware? Attached pic


Yes that is the latest f/w version .

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## philipbtz

Dave Harper said:


> I guess "force" is the wrong word maybe, but what happens is you only get RGB SDR rec709 8 bit with the UB900. Another user reported being able to send RGB HDR bt2020 8 bit with an Oppo 203.


RGB HDR bt2020 8 bit does not seem that interesting tbh. RGB 10-12b BT2020 would be interesting but then you need a different projector. RGB SDR rec709 8 bit might be interesting for BDs. Or are you saying RGB 8b is superior to 4:2:2 10b for HDR? That sounds odd but maybe the 4:2:2 compression is so bad that 10b does not even make up for it? I'm skeptical but I'll be following this.


----------



## Haiej

Dave Harper said:


> That is my first unofficial version I guess you'd say. It's not really the one most are talking about right now though.
> 
> That one is for Bright Cinema Mode, which doesn't offer the bt2020/DCI-P3 filter and you leave in HDR mode.
> 
> The newer one you uses Digital Cinema Mode in SDR with my custom gamma and settings, which also maintains the P3 Filter. Click on the link below my signature for those settings and gamma.


On the Official JVC RS420 forum thread, as per post #909 (Javs) and post #919 (Mike Garrett):
JVC RS420 = no DCI-P3 filter. Projector can hit 91% of the P3 color space
JVC RS520 = yes DCI-P3 filter

Would it be valid to consider this a benefit of the Epson 5040UB compared to the JVC RS420, in terms of better representing the extra wide color gamut, since the Epson 5040UB Digital Cinema mode offers the DCI-P3 filter ?
What is the % of the P3 color space covered by the Epson 5040UB ?


----------



## Mike Garrett

Schuyler Bain said:


> I'm trying to decide between micorperf ST130 or CIMA Neve to pair with my 5040UB. Is your ST130 an "AT" material and was the CIMA line available when you made your purchase? These screens seems very similar on paper, but the CIMA is much more affordable.


ST130 microperf has a gain of 1.17. Cima Neve microperf has a gain of 1.


----------



## swyda038

Does the Harper Vision settings only apply or work well with certain receivers/blu-ray players or will it result in a good quality image no matter what AVR and blu-ray you have? I am using a Samsung 8500K UHD Blu Ray player and Yamaha RX-V679BL 7.2-Channel MusicCast AV Receiver. Thanks


----------



## john barlow

impetigo said:


> Not trying to hijack your question, but I'm curious how to check for firmware updates. Doesn't seem to be a way for the device to check for updates, which is too bad since it supports wifi. Also curious what the newest firmware offers/changes.


Using your Epson remote, hit the info button. Hit the Version button. The two rows contain your firmware info. The last three integers, example, 106/104. The current firmware update is 
109/104, correct me if I'm wrong. You will find that on the support page for our projector, on Epson's website. Download the update to USB thumbdrive and follow the instructions from Epson. Hope this helps. I've been holding off to hear from some of our resident experts that have already downloaded the update, to hopefully share their input if they've noticed any improvements after performing the upgrade. There really isn't much description from Epson that explain what this update includes, or, why we should be compelled to download and install the update. Any help from you great guys and gals would be appreciated, by me anyway. Thanks and Cheers!


----------



## john barlow

longhornsk57 said:


> I may have missed this in the OP or another thread, but is there any list of compatible 3D glasses for this PJ?
> 
> I am thinking of getting one, and I';d need like 10 pairs.


If this question doesn't come up at least every week, the earth must have fallen off its axis. At Amazon, the preferred glasses for many of us are the Value Vue glasses. Great price, excellent 3D rendering with little to no deleterious weaknesses. The glasses my better half prefers and they are pretty good, although, I prefer the Value Vue because they are more comfortable with my eyeglasses. They are the Samsung 3d glasses with the charger and on button on the end of the handle that fits over your right ear. My other gripe with the Samsung glasses is, they don't fold up. Very hard to store these in something to prevent dust buildup. Other than that, I have wound up sending back most of the other glasses that do give an image, albeit a very crappy image. Beware.


----------



## impetigo

robc1976 said:


> you download to a usb jump drive and plug into back of projector.





john barlow said:


> Using your Epson remote, hit the info button. Hit the Version button. The two rows contain your firmware info. The last three integers, example, 106/104. The current firmware update is
> 109/104, correct me if I'm wrong. You will find that on the support page for our projector, on Epson's website. Download the update to USB thumbdrive and follow the instructions from Epson. Hope this helps. I've been holding off to hear from some of our resident experts that have already downloaded the update, to hopefully share their input if they've noticed any improvements after performing the upgrade. There really isn't much description from Epson that explain what this update includes, or, why we should be compelled to download and install the update. Any help from you great guys and gals would be appreciated, by me anyway. Thanks and Cheers!


Thanks, I was hoping it could be done from the device but I guess it can't. Strange that other devices have been able to check and download/update the firmware wirelessly from the device itself but this projector can't. 

Any reason(s) to update to the newest firmware?


----------



## john barlow

impetigo said:


> Thanks, I was hoping it could be done from the device but I guess it can't. Strange that other devices have been able to check and download/update the firmware wirelessly from the device itself but this projector can't.
> 
> Any reason(s) to update to the newest firmware?


I've asked that same question twice now and have yet to hear back from anyone. In the meantime, I'll just hold off until I read or hear something from somewhere. I'll be sure to post an update here, so, both you and I can know about it. Cheers!


----------



## mikecoscia

Just about finishing up my HT install, I have a Denon 6300x coming this week and need to start looking for a blu-ray player. What is the general consensus on the best player to get with the least compatibility issues (HDR and 3D)? The Oppo 203, the Philips Panasonic UB900 or something else entirely?


----------



## impetigo

john barlow said:


> I've asked that same question twice now and have yet to hear back from anyone. In the meantime, I'll just hold off until I read or hear something from somewhere. I'll be sure to post an update here, so, both you and I can know about it. Cheers!


Thanks!

I probably don't need to update in any case as my 5040 seems to be working fine, with the exception of the humming when using 4k enhancement with 1080/60p source. Not sure if that can be fixed with a firmware update though. 

Overall, I am pretty happy with the 5040UB, coming from an AE8000U, with only a few minor quibbles (like the unattractive design, aforementioned 4k enhancement humming, the "hard drive" noise when using active iris, etc.). I haven't noticed any real degradation in quality during motion/action/panning that some have found problematic and I really like the performance (especially how quiet it is as we have it installed about 14-16" above our heads) and feature set, particularly the motorized zoom, focus, lens shift, and memory.

Great projector!


----------



## Dave Harper

Haiej said:


> On the Official JVC RS420 forum thread, as per post #909 (Javs) and post #919 (Mike Garrett):
> JVC RS420 = no DCI-P3 filter. Projector can hit 91% of the P3 color space
> JVC RS520 = yes DCI-P3 filter
> 
> Would it be valid to consider this a benefit of the Epson 5040UB compared to the JVC RS420, in terms of better representing the extra wide color gamut, since the Epson 5040UB Digital Cinema mode offers the DCI-P3 filter ?
> What is the % of the P3 color space covered by the Epson 5040UB ?



Yes I'd say that could be an advantage. If I recall, red and blue got to 100% with the filter engaged and green was a little bit low and phased towards yellow/red at about maybe 95-97%. This of course was with my HarperVision settings in SDR mode with custom tweaks.




philipbtz said:


> RGB HDR bt2020 8 bit does not seem that interesting tbh. RGB 10-12b BT2020 would be interesting but then you need a different projector. RGB SDR rec709 8 bit might be interesting for BDs. Or are you saying RGB 8b is superior to 4:2:2 10b for HDR? That sounds odd but maybe the 4:2:2 compression is so bad that 10b does not even make up for it? I'm skeptical but I'll be following this.



Yes, that's what I'm saying. 

I'm sure I was missing color potential, but man you could just immediately see how much cleaner and more detail it seemed to pull out. Those advantages seemed to override any disadvantages of the losses. Of course it would be better to also have HDR bt2020 10 bit, that's why I said if we can get that it would be the "Holy Grail" for this unit. 

I really need time to play with it though, as I just didn't before I left. I will soon though!


----------



## jason_galaxy

*Picture corruption after disk menu display*

Hi, I am newly registered here because I haven't posted since back in the rear-projection HDTV days 

I recently purchased a 5040UBE and Sony x800 4K player. All works pretty well except one corner case,
When accessing the menu on the 4K Star Trek disk, it corrupts the right half of the screen (for the
rest of the movie) until I switch inputs on the wireless HDMI transmitter then back again.

This does not happen on direct input to the projector. 

Contacted Epson and they feel is a problem with the encoding on the disk but I suspect I may hit it
on something else. 

Anybody seen anything similar?


----------



## robc1976

Azekecse said:


> Yes that is the latest f/w version .
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


 thank you my friend


----------



## curtishd

I currently have the Sony hw40 and I'm wondering if the Epson 5040 is a worth while upgrade until true 4K projectors become more affordable. My main concerns are:
1. Will I see a major difference between the Sony and Epson? 
2. Is the WCG really noticeable? What about WGC when watching hdtv? 
3. Does it have good motion handling (compared to the Sony)?
4. I have seen Epsons in the past and I have stayed away mostly due to the screen door effect. Has this improved?
5. Can I use the faux 4K feature on HDTV such as sports and HBO? What are the limitations of the 4K feature?


----------



## john barlow

impetigo said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I probably don't need to update in any case as my 5040 seems to be working fine, with the exception of the humming when using 4k enhancement with 1080/60p source. Not sure if that can be fixed with a firmware update though.
> 
> Overall, I am pretty happy with the 5040UB, coming from an AE8000U, with only a few minor quibbles (like the unattractive design, aforementioned 4k enhancement humming, the "hard drive" noise when using active iris, etc.). I haven't noticed any real degradation in quality during motion/action/panning that some have found problematic and I really like the performance (especially how quiet it is as we have it installed about 14-16" above our heads) and feature set, particularly the motorized zoom, focus, lens shift, and memory.
> 
> Great projector!


I came from the Panny AE8000U as well, I always wanted to try Epson because of their reputation for world class support. I don't hear a hum and always use 4k enhancement for 1080P material. I didn't really care to have a white case but, I wasn't willing to pay a grand more for an extra bulb, ISF settings or ceiling mount. I built a shelf for my back wall and that goes a long way in sheltering my black painted cinema from a giant ghastly white PJ. The shelf also bein a couple of feet further from my sweetspot, probably goes a long way to ameliorating extraneous noise from the unit. I'm guessing it's the fan you hear. Try putting the medium lamp setting. If it reduces of eliminates your hum, you know what it is. If it doesn't call Epson because they'll send you a new projector. Cheers! P.S. I hated the manual lens shift on the panny 8000. What a pita. The Epson is Heaven sent.


----------



## impetigo

john barlow said:


> I came from the Panny AE8000U as well, I always wanted to try Epson because of their reputation for world class support. I don't hear a hum and always use 4k enhancement for 1080P material. I didn't really care to have a white case but, I wasn't willing to pay a grand more for an extra bulb, ISF settings or ceiling mount. I built a shelf for my back wall and that goes a long way in sheltering my black painted cinema from a giant ghastly white PJ. The shelf also bein a couple of feet further from my sweetspot, probably goes a long way to ameliorating extraneous noise from the unit. I'm guessing it's the fan you hear. Try putting the medium lamp setting. If it reduces of eliminates your hum, you know what it is. If it doesn't call Epson because they'll send you a new projector. Cheers! P.S. I hated the manual lens shift on the panny 8000. What a pita. The Epson is Heaven sent.


Thanks, although it seems the noise issue is from 4k enhancement with blu-ray source (24 or 60hz) for me, it's totally gone when I turn it off. I didn't appreciate much improvement with a 1080p BD so I don't really care (for now, but would eventually like to use it). The fan itself is not bad at all at Eco (almost soothing), but medium is too loud (it's 14" from my head!). Luckily, I have it zoomed all the way in (so shortest throw distance) and so the image brightness does not suffer at all even at Eco.



curtishd said:


> I currently have the Sony hw40 and I'm wondering if the Epson 5040 is a worth while upgrade until true 4K projectors become more affordable. My main concerns are:
> 1. Will I see a major difference between the Sony and Epson?
> 2. Is the WCG really noticeable? What about WGC when watching hdtv?
> 3. Does it have good motion handling (compared to the Sony)?
> 4. I have seen Epsons in the past and I have stayed away mostly due to the screen door effect. Has this improved?
> 5. Can I use the faux 4K feature on HDTV such as sports and HBO? What are the limitations of the 4K feature?


I had many of the same questions between the Panasonic AE8000U and the 5040UB and having "upgraded" I don't really notice or appreciate much in the way of image quality improvement. I do like the improved feature set like motorized everything (lens shutter cap/cover, zoom, focus, lens shift as well as memory), decent zooming and lens shift (vert and horizontal), etc. 

People have complained about motion handling but frankly I have tried to see if it's particularly bad and I really can't notice it being below average and I have stopped looking for it as it doesn't bother me at all.

No screen door effect from typical viewing distances. By about 8' I don't see any SDE with a 110" diagonal 16x9 image. Probably won't be an issue unless you have an enormous screen and sit pretty close.

Don't know much about the 4k enhancement or pixel shifting or whatever as I usually have it turned off as it causes a bothersome humming noise when receiving a 1080/60p signal. Supposedly it doesn't happen with a 24hz signal but I get it then too. No issue when it's off though. 

If I didn't need all the motorized shifting and memory I would probably return it (just got it a week ago) and get the new 4k optoma dlp (the rgbrgb one, supposed to be $3,300).


----------



## Dave Harper

swyda038 said:


> Does the Harper Vision settings only apply or work well with certain receivers/blu-ray players or will it result in a good quality image no matter what AVR and blu-ray you have? I am using a Samsung 8500K UHD Blu Ray player and Yamaha RX-V679BL 7.2-Channel MusicCast AV Receiver. Thanks



It doesn't matter as long as it can send the full HDR WCG signal to the 5040.


----------



## bommai

swyda038 said:


> Does the Harper Vision settings only apply or work well with certain receivers/blu-ray players or will it result in a good quality image no matter what AVR and blu-ray you have? I am using a Samsung 8500K UHD Blu Ray player and Yamaha RX-V679BL 7.2-Channel MusicCast AV Receiver. Thanks




It is for any device as long as the content is hdr. It is only for HDR content. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

impetigo said:


> Not trying to hijack your question, but I'm curious how to check for firmware updates. Doesn't seem to be a way for the device to check for updates, which is too bad since it supports wifi. Also curious what the newest firmware offers/changes.




Just updated firmware. But don't know what the changes are


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

Jameshtx said:


> Just updated firmware. But don't know what the changes are
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Owners should complain to Epson about this, how hard is it to put release notes on the same webpage where the download link is for the firmware? This is a pretty basic thing and perhaps if enough people ask for it they'll provide it.


----------



## bigabit

curtishd said:


> I currently have the Sony hw40 and I'm wondering if the Epson 5040 is a worth while upgrade until true 4K projectors become more affordable. My main concerns are:
> 1. Will I see a major difference between the Sony and Epson?
> 2. Is the WCG really noticeable? What about WGC when watching hdtv?
> 3. Does it have good motion handling (compared to the Sony)?
> 4. I have seen Epsons in the past and I have stayed away mostly due to the screen door effect. Has this improved?
> 5. Can I use the faux 4K feature on HDTV such as sports and HBO? What are the limitations of the 4K feature?


I upgraded to 5040 from a hw40. Hope this helps:

1. There is a noticeable difference. For me the difference was somewhat minimized by my very long throw. The Epson is brighter, but the Sony holds brightness better further back. So for me it's a little brighter. Color is better (with right settings). Image Enhancement is better. The HDR support is fun to play with but hit and miss. A standard bluray is noticeably better on Epson. I did side by side comparisons. Sony held up, Epson was better.

2. WCG is not noticeable. Difficult to calibrate. Keep in mind in my setup it's too dark anyway. May be worth it for others. I can't see the difference. Very little HDTV being broadcast in 2020 WCG. Some on Netflix and Amazon. But the 4K SDR stuff looks so good. HDR almost not worth it.

3. Does not seem to have best motion handling. For me has acceptable motion handling.

4. Screen door effect was very jarring to me coming from the Sony. Actually sent my unit back it was so prominent. Second unit was the same. Came to realize it's just the difference in the tech. The 4k enhancement helps. With that on, at appropriate seating distance it is not noticeable.

5. The 4k upscaling is great. Main limitation is it cannot be combined with frame interpolation I believe. So if you like the smoothing on for sports, you can't do 4k enhance I think. I upscale at the player level so I am always sending 4k, which definitely disables the frame interpolation option.

The Harpervision settings are great. I always buy and try the HDR discs. But some of the most impressive stuff I've watched has been regular bluray. For me personally the upgrade was worth it just for how good those look. But lens memory plus ability to send 4K and play with HDR makes it more than worth it.

But man is the HW45 a bargain at the price.


----------



## Nerys64

i just bought and had a 5040ub installed. Screen is EliteScreens cinetension B series, 135". projector distance is a bit higher than 13.3 feet so it should be well within the projector's capability to fill up the screen. nfortunately im having a ton of issues.

To give some background, ive got 2 simultaneous HDMI outputs on my marantz SR6007 receiver. I have the receiver set to always automatically output to both at the same time. *this works for the cable box but not the PC. *I think it works fine for the blu ray player as well, but the PC gives me a lot of issues.

1) when I have both TV and projector turned on, both display an image from the PC. If I turn off the TV (hdmiCEC is disabled on all devices but ive also tried with hdmiCEC enabled on all devices), the projector stops getting a signal of any sort. Whats strange is, the HDMI balun shows that the marantz IS feeding it a signal (the status light is yellow, indicating an image is being transmitted). When I hit the menu button on the marantz remote, suddenly i get a signal, but nothing from the PC. So something about the TV turning off is making the PC stop displaying an image to the projector over HDMI output 2 from the receiver. Projector says "no signal".


Again, turning on cable box has no bearing on tv being on/off. its purely the PC that exhibits this. I havent tried blu ray player yet. I have tried turning HDMI control on for both marantz and projector, and it did not work. If I plug directly into the projector it seems to work but the PC is extremely hesitant about displaying an image. Right now im almost positive this has something to do with the driver, and this may be fixed by using a hardware HDMI switch so that the PC always outputs 1080p60 to the receiver, and the receiver output can go to either tv or projector depending on what i'm watching.



2) The projector image seems horizontally stretched. I displayed a test pattern on PC and i had it output to both TV and projector. The projector image shows circles as ellipses. There is seemingly no adjustment anywhere about this. The screen i bought is 16:9, the image i'm displaying is 16:9, but it seems that the projector is displaying it wider than tall. On the TV circles look like circles. on the projector, circles look oblong.


Furthermore, when the sides of the image are lined up with the sides of the screen, there is a large amount of white space above and below.
If I try to zoom the projector to cover up that space, the image WAYYYY overshoots the sides of the screen.
I dont know/understand how to fix this. Aspect ratio settings do not seem to be working, and it seems Aspect Ratio is not a setting that works on anything except an analog input signal (vga).


3) text on the projector from the PC seems extremely fuzzy. I think this is because the projector is not set up for this kind of text. I have a specific input on the TV called HDMI/DVI that is designed to display PC text. it also disables pretty much all image enhancements. I'm attempting to locate that on the 5040ub.


 Any help here would be appreciated.
Also, the test pattern for the projector (built in) is apparently not supposed to fll the top/bottom of the screen? No idea wtf thats all about. It looks to me like the test pattern itself is also warped horizontally.


Could this warping be happening because im using the projector at almost maximum zoom at this viewing distance?


----------



## john barlow

impetigo said:


> Thanks, although it seems the noise issue is from 4k enhancement with blu-ray source (24 or 60hz) for me, it's totally gone when I turn it off. I didn't appreciate much improvement with a 1080p BD so I don't really care (for now, but would eventually like to use it). The fan itself is not bad at all at Eco (almost soothing), but medium is too loud (it's 14" from my head!). Luckily, I have it zoomed all the way in (so shortest throw distance) and so the image brightness does not suffer at all even at Eco.
> 
> 
> 
> I had many of the same questions between the Panasonic AE8000U and the 5040UB and having "upgraded" I don't really notice or appreciate much in the way of image quality improvement. I do like the improved feature set like motorized everything (lens shutter cap/cover, zoom, focus, lens shift as well as memory), decent zooming and lens shift (vert and horizontal), etc.
> 
> People have complained about motion handling but frankly I have tried to see if it's particularly bad and I really can't notice it being below average and I have stopped looking for it as it doesn't bother me at all.
> 
> No screen door effect from typical viewing distances. By about 8' I don't see any SDE with a 110" diagonal 16x9 image. Probably won't be an issue unless you have an enormous screen and sit pretty close.
> 
> Don't know much about the 4k enhancement or pixel shifting or whatever as I usually have it turned off as it causes a bothersome humming noise when receiving a 1080/60p signal. Supposedly it doesn't happen with a 24hz signal but I get it then too. No issue when it's off though.
> 
> If I didn't need all the motorized shifting and memory I would probably return it (just got it a week ago) and get the new 4k optoma dlp (the rgbrgb one, supposed to be $3,300).


Have you tried 3D on the 5040 yet? It's head and shoulders better than the Panny. Bright, clean, great depth, with more controls to enhance picture. I haven't tried the 2D to 3d function but, I heard that works really well too. I tried it once on the Panny. It was so distorted I never tried again. The Epson 5040 plays UHD discs and obviously the Panny doesn't. Some of the UHD discs are amazing. It surpasses Panny. Also, On both my AE4000 and the AE8000, once I hit 2000 hours, the bulb would automatically dim and the picture so dark, I needed a bulb ready for install. Couldn't stand how dark the image was after only 2000 hours. I'm well over 2000 on the Epson with very little noticeable dimming. I'm sure it has dimmed but it's such a gradual degradation, so, no worries. There is the option of increasing brightness to compensate. I'm really curious to know how much longer I can go without being compelled to swap for a new bulb. Honestly though, my favorite issue it their CIH and the ease of switching to multiple screen sizes with very little effort. I discover new and exciting reasons to love this Epson very often. Bought it at Christmas and already approaching 2500 hours. I love it so much I can't get enough. The 4k enhancement for me has been such a boon for all of my older 1080p favorites and I'm re watching all of them. This could take many more weeks or months. I enjoy watching films to the point that I'm purchasing new discs, rather than renting. You can find all kinds of great movies on Blu ray 1080p for around $5 used or new. Amazon has great prices for classic remastered to 1080P for cheap. I'm also seeing UHD disc prices starting to come down. I am considering getting a petition to the film companies to maybe include 3D with the UHD discs wherever they can to justify extra costs. Also, I'm disappointed that many of the 3D discs do not include Dolby Atmos when they offer it on UHD disc. It's a bummer for me because certain movies lend themselves to 3d and we passionate cinema lovers should not have to sacrifice sound quality when there is no other reason than greed to not include it. That's my pitch for including 3D with UHD. No reason it shouldn't be added because you purchased the UHD and 3D together. What do you think?


----------



## impetigo

john barlow said:


> Have you tried 3D on the 5040 yet? It's head and shoulders better than the Panny. Bright, clean, great depth, with more controls to enhance picture. I haven't tried the 2D to 3d function but, I heard that works really well too. I tried it once on the Panny. It was so distorted I never tried again. The Epson 5040 plays UHD discs and obviously the Panny doesn't. Some of the UHD discs are amazing. It surpasses Panny. Also, On both my AE4000 and the AE8000, once I hit 2000 hours, the bulb would automatically dim and the picture so dark, I needed a bulb ready for install. Couldn't stand how dark the image was after only 2000 hours. I'm well over 2000 on the Epson with very little noticeable dimming. I'm sure it has dimmed but it's such a gradual degradation, so, no worries. There is the option of increasing brightness to compensate. I'm really curious to know how much longer I can go without being compelled to swap for a new bulb. Honestly though, my favorite issue it their CIH and the ease of switching to multiple screen sizes with very little effort. I discover new and exciting reasons to love this Epson very often. Bought it at Christmas and already approaching 2500 hours. I love it so much I can't get enough. The 4k enhancement for me has been such a boon for all of my older 1080p favorites and I'm re watching all of them. This could take many more weeks or months. I enjoy watching films to the point that I'm purchasing new discs, rather than renting. You can find all kinds of great movies on Blu ray 1080p for around $5 used or new. Amazon has great prices for classic remastered to 1080P for cheap. I'm also seeing UHD disc prices starting to come down. I am considering getting a petition to the film companies to maybe include 3D with the UHD discs wherever they can to justify extra costs. Also, I'm disappointed that many of the 3D discs do not include Dolby Atmos when they offer it on UHD disc. It's a bummer for me because certain movies lend themselves to 3d and we passionate cinema lovers should not have to sacrifice sound quality when there is no other reason than greed to not include it. That's my pitch for including 3D with UHD. No reason it shouldn't be added because you purchased the UHD and 3D together. What do you think?


Totally agree. I actually tried 3D for the first time this morning (after getting my new Samsung 3D glasses, which are quite nice, due to my old Panasonic and PS3 3D glasses not being compatible with the 5040) and I could see how 3D will be a definite strength and highlight of the 5040 vs the 8000. I also couldn't really enjoy 3D on the 8000 due to the lack of brightness, but it seems the superior brightness of the 5040 will enable me to watch 3D again (I also have a ton of 3D blu-rays that I have not watched mostly so I'm looking forward to that). Agree about the lack of Atmos on UHD 3D discs, even though I don't and will probably never have an Atmos/DTS-X system, that it's lame not to include it on the 3D discs. Bizarre decision. 

I only have one UHD (Ghostbusters) but no UHD player and probably won't get one for a while (I told myself 3 years ago that my Oppo 103 would be my last blu-ray player in a long time in order to justify the cost), but it seems that one major benefit of 1080p 3D on UHD is the ability to present the full 1920x1080 resolution to each eye in passive 3D. Of course, the 5040 (and all projectors I guess due to the technology?) uses active so I think it's not applicable, and unfortunately many TV makers are forgoing 3D completely on their UHD/4k sets, but that was one area for real benefit of having 1080p 3D on UHD discs.


----------



## LumensLover

curtishd said:


> I currently have the Sony hw40 and I'm wondering if the Epson 5040 is a worth while upgrade until true 4K projectors become more affordable. My main concerns are:
> 1. Will I see a major difference between the Sony and Epson?


I've had the Epson 6040,40ES, and the 45ES. I do not think the 6040 had discernably better pictur quality than the 45ES. With the iris open, the 6040's native contrast was visibly worst than the 45ES.

I did like the image quality a bit better with the 6040 for general cable watching however for movies I actually prefered the image quality of the 45ES.


----------



## john barlow

impetigo said:


> Totally agree. I actually tried 3D for the first time this morning (after getting my new Samsung 3D glasses, which are quite nice, due to my old Panasonic and PS3 3D glasses not being compatible with the 5040) and I could see how 3D will be a definite strength and highlight of the 5040 vs the 8000. I also couldn't really enjoy 3D on the 8000 due to the lack of brightness, but it seems the superior brightness of the 5040 will enable me to watch 3D again (I also have a ton of 3D blu-rays that I have not watched mostly so I'm looking forward to that). Agree about the lack of Atmos on UHD 3D discs, even though I don't and will probably never have an Atmos/DTS-X system, that it's lame not to include it on the 3D discs. Bizarre decision.
> 
> I only have one UHD (Ghostbusters) but no UHD player and probably won't get one for a while (I told myself 3 years ago that my Oppo 103 would be my last blu-ray player in a long time in order to justify the cost), but it seems that one major benefit of 1080p 3D on UHD is the ability to present the full 1920x1080 resolution to each eye in passive 3D. Of course, the 5040 (and all projectors I guess due to the technology?) uses active so I think it's not applicable, and unfortunately many TV makers are forgoing 3D completely on their UHD/4k sets, but that was one area for real benefit of having 1080p 3D on UHD discs.


Sell your 103 and find the money for the 203, it's worth it. The latest firmware for the 203 improved everything. I'm still stunned at the PQ and SQ. Watched Great Wall of China last night on a blu uhd with atmos. Amazing. Reference disc now. Best immersive sound I've ever heard. It was shockingly good. I had to watch it twice. Shallows UHD is great also. Don't hang on to your 103, upgrade. You will not regret it.


----------



## Viche

LumensLover said:


> I've bad the Epson 6040,40ES, and the 45ES. I do not think the 6040 had discernably better pictur quality than the 45ES. With the iris open, the 6040's native contrast was visibly worst than the 45ES.
> 
> I did like the image quality a bit better with the 6040 for general cable watching however for movies I actually prefered the image quality of the 45ES.


 Do you use the dynamic Iris on the 6040? Like it? Do you watch with lights off? Do you have dark surfaces in your room?


----------



## Nerys64

Minor update guys. Got everything working perfectly as far as filling the screen goes. This particular projector is designed to be mounted perfectly level. No angling or anything. Epson support said to resort to keystone as a last ditch effort and use lens shift as much as you can first. 

Now I just have to fight with my pc to allow it to display on either TV or projector. Not sure how I'll do that yet, gotta come up with a valid testing strategy. 

To repeat my issue, when using pc with my dual output receiver, it only wants to output an image if the TV is turned on. Of I turn off the TV, the projector gets a blank screen and says no signal. Even though my pc shouldn't be able to see the projector or the TV, it should only see the Marantz. The Marantz splits the signal 2 ways and apparently my gpu. Hates this. Probably because the TV wants 1080p60 while the projector reports it can handle 4k 30hz (or 60,dont remember)


----------



## sddp

john barlow said:


> I am considering getting a petition to the film companies to maybe include 3D with the UHD discs wherever they can to justify extra costs. Also, I'm disappointed that many of the 3D discs do not include Dolby Atmos when they offer it on UHD disc. It's a bummer for me because certain movies lend themselves to 3d and we passionate cinema lovers should not have to sacrifice sound quality when there is no other reason than greed to not include it. That's my pitch for including 3D with UHD. No reason it shouldn't be added because you purchased the UHD and 3D together. What do you think?




SIGN ME UP!!


That is my BIGGEST gripe. I only found one title searching our entire Planet that had 4K AND 3D: IMAX: Journey to Space
It was on sale too! at BestBuy $14.99


I don't have the budget or the space to buy the 4K and 3D version. So it's always a toss up on which to go with and frustrating since this PJ does a great job with both and I can't understand why we can't have our cake and eat it too.
I don't mind spending a little more the 4K/3D combo. Just not willing to spend the usual $29.00 for the 3D and $39.99 for the 4K making it like $75 w/tax


----------



## sddp

impetigo said:


> Totally agree. I actually tried 3D for the first time this morning (after getting my new Samsung 3D glasses, which are quite nice, due to my old Panasonic and PS3 3D glasses not being compatible with the 5040) and I could see how 3D will be a definite strength and highlight of the 5040 vs the 8000. I also couldn't really enjoy 3D on the 8000 due to the lack of brightness, but it seems the superior brightness of the 5040 will enable me to watch 3D again (I also have a ton of 3D blu-rays that I have not watched mostly so I'm looking forward to that). Agree about the lack of Atmos on UHD 3D discs, even though I don't and will probably never have an Atmos/DTS-X system, that it's lame not to include it on the 3D discs. Bizarre decision.




I think the logic behind that is the amount of space required for 3D is so large that it doesn't allow for Atmos as well as the limit of date rate too. Notice how most if not all 3D Blu Ray disc do NOT have any previews at all, where the standard Blu Ray that comes in the set has like half an hour of previews, extras, etc.


There is a way around this. Buy just the stander Blu Ray that has the Atmos and buy a 3D-Bee Diamond series which convert 2D to 3D. This does a SUPERIOUR job compared to what any TV or projectors built in 2D to 3D can ever do, Its actually as good if not better than 3D discs


----------



## xpl0sive

Hi All,

Sorry if I'm repeating questions here but this thread is quite large. I've seen Hapervision mentioned here a lot and it seems like the general consensus is that these are the best settings for UHD discs. Is there a set of settings like this for regular Blu-ray as well, and is there an ability to save these settings as presets? I don't have this projector yet, but I will soon, and I wanted the ability to program these settings as an activity step in my Logitech Harmony Elite, so example I select can activity called 'watch UHD blu ray' and it'll turn on the projector, receiver, UB900, change to the right input on the receiver and automatically switch to the Harpervision settings. Does anyone know if this is doable?


----------



## philipbtz

xpl0sive said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Sorry if I'm repeating questions here but this thread is quite large. I've seen Hapervision mentioned here a lot and it seems like the general consensus is that these are the best settings for UHD discs. Is there a set of settings like this for regular Blu-ray as well, and is there an ability to save these settings as presets? I don't have this projector yet, but I will soon, and I wanted the ability to program these settings as an activity step in my Logitech Harmony Elite, so example I select can activity called 'watch UHD blu ray' and it'll turn on the projector, receiver, UB900, change to the right input on the receiver and automatically switch to the Harpervision settings. Does anyone know if this is doable?


All you need for BD or other content in 1080p Rec. 709 SDR is the Natural mode as it's very good out of the box. I run these settings in Natural for BD: Gamma -1. Brightness 51, Contrast 48, Iris -20, lamp ECO, white balance 7000K. This is for a very dark room. For livingroom you should probably try gamma 0 as that's close to 2.2. Gamme -1 is around 2.4. It's very easy to save and load settings for different content. I mainly use this and harpervision for HDR stuff.


----------



## impetigo

sddp said:


> I think the logic behind that is the amount of space required for 3D is so large that it doesn't allow for Atmos as well as the limit of date rate too. Notice how most if not all 3D Blu Ray disc do NOT have any previews at all, where the standard Blu Ray that comes in the set has like half an hour of previews, extras, etc.


That makes sense, I was wondering if there was a technical limitation/reason for it. 



john barlow said:


> Sell your 103 and find the money for the 203, it's worth it. The latest firmware for the 203 improved everything. I'm still stunned at the PQ and SQ. Watched Great Wall of China last night on a blu uhd with atmos. Amazing. Reference disc now. Best immersive sound I've ever heard. It was shockingly good. I had to watch it twice. Shallows UHD is great also. Don't hang on to your 103, upgrade. You will not regret it.


Hmm, that's an interesting idea too. I may look into it if I can get a decent price for the 103. 

Btw, I tried watching a little bit of Ghostbusters in 3D on the 5040 and it was pretty headache inducing unfortunately. I've never been a fan of active 3D but this was definitely worse than the AE8000. Not sure if it's the crosstalk issue that is known for this model (I suspect it is), but we couldn't watch too much of it (my wife was more susceptible to nausea/headaches than me). I will probably try again this weekend. Would hate to not be able to watch 3D because of this. I wonder if trying different (like the Epson branded ones) glasses might help or if it's just a projector issue.


----------



## DireWolf08

xpl0sive said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Sorry if I'm repeating questions here but this thread is quite large. I've seen Hapervision mentioned here a lot and it seems like the general consensus is that these are the best settings for UHD discs. Is there a set of settings like this for regular Blu-ray as well, and is there an ability to save these settings as presets? I don't have this projector yet, but I will soon, and I wanted the ability to program these settings as an activity step in my Logitech Harmony Elite, so example I select can activity called 'watch UHD blu ray' and it'll turn on the projector, receiver, UB900, change to the right input on the receiver and automatically switch to the Harpervision settings. Does anyone know if this is doable?


As for your question about using a Harmony activity to switch to the right settings: I messed with trying to do this for a while. My approach tried to set up an activity startup macro and I could not get it to work. Let me know if you figure it out though!


----------



## BuGsArEtAsTy

john barlow said:


> Have you tried 3D on the 5040 yet? It's head and shoulders better than the Panny. Bright, clean, great depth, with more controls to enhance picture. I haven't tried the 2D to 3d function but, I heard that works really well too. I tried it once on the Panny. It was so distorted I never tried again. The Epson 5040 plays UHD discs and obviously the Panny doesn't. Some of the UHD discs are amazing. It surpasses Panny. Also, On both my AE4000 and the AE8000, once I hit 2000 hours, the bulb would automatically dim and the picture so dark, I needed a bulb ready for install. Couldn't stand how dark the image was after only 2000 hours. I'm well over 2000 on the Epson with very little noticeable dimming. I'm sure it has dimmed but it's such a gradual degradation, so, no worries. There is the option of increasing brightness to compensate. I'm really curious to know how much longer I can go without being compelled to swap for a new bulb. Honestly though, my favorite issue it their CIH and the ease of switching to multiple screen sizes with very little effort. I discover new and exciting reasons to love this Epson very often. Bought it at Christmas and already approaching 2500 hours. I love it so much I can't get enough. The 4k enhancement for me has been such a boon for all of my older 1080p favorites and I'm re watching all of them. This could take many more weeks or months. I enjoy watching films to the point that I'm purchasing new discs, rather than renting. You can find all kinds of great movies on Blu ray 1080p for around $5 used or new. Amazon has great prices for classic remastered to 1080P for cheap. I'm also seeing UHD disc prices starting to come down. I am considering getting a petition to the film companies to maybe include 3D with the UHD discs wherever they can to justify extra costs. Also, I'm disappointed that many of the 3D discs do not include Dolby Atmos when they offer it on UHD disc. It's a bummer for me because certain movies lend themselves to 3d and we passionate cinema lovers should not have to sacrifice sound quality when there is no other reason than greed to not include it. That's my pitch for including 3D with UHD. No reason it shouldn't be added because you purchased the UHD and 3D together. What do you think?


Well, I suspect they are catering to people like me, which represent the vast majority of Blu-ray buyers: Those who don't care at all about 3D Blu-ray. My preference would be to have Atmos on all the 2D discs including 1080p Blu-ray, but since that's not the case, I have UHD for my 1080p setup. I don't own a single 3D title, despite the fact my players (two of them) and my 1080p projector all support 3D.


----------



## Lesmor

BuGsArEtAsTy said:


> Well, I suspect they are catering to people like me, which represent the vast majority of Blu-ray buyers: Those who don't care at all about 3D Blu-ray. My preference would be to have Atmos on all the 2D discs including 1080p Blu-ray, but since that's not the case, I have UHD for my 1080p setup. I don't own a single 3D title, despite the fact my players (two of them) and my 1080p projector all support 3D.


Well I don't understand that when you buy a UHD disc they also bundle a blu-ray (without Atmos)?

My preference would be ditch the Bluray and reduce the UHD and Bluray cost to parity

A UHD bundled with the 3D version at the existing premium price makes far more sense to me
Then everyone should be happy


----------



## BuGsArEtAsTy

Lesmor said:


> Well I don't understand that when you buy a UHD disc they also bundle a blu-ray (without Atmos)?
> 
> My preference would be ditch the Bluray and reduce the UHD and Bluray cost to parity
> 
> A UHD bundled with the 3D version at the existing premium price makes far more sense to me
> Then everyone should be happy


If they did that I'd probably mostly just stop buying the UHD discs, and get the much cheaper 2D Blu-ray. That would make the studios unhappy.

The UHD disc only works in one player in my house. The other TVs in the house have regular Blu-ray players. Like most people I have zero use for a 3D version, regardless of price.


----------



## mikecoscia

impetigo said:


> Totally agree. I actually tried 3D for the first time this morning (after getting my new Samsung 3D glasses, which are quite nice, due to my old Panasonic and PS3 3D glasses not being compatible with the 5040) and I could see how 3D will be a definite strength and highlight of the 5040 vs the 8000. I also couldn't really enjoy 3D on the 8000 due to the lack of brightness, but it seems the superior brightness of the 5040 will enable me to watch 3D again (I also have a ton of 3D blu-rays that I have not watched mostly so I'm looking forward to that). Agree about the lack of Atmos on UHD 3D discs, even though I don't and will probably never have an Atmos/DTS-X system, that it's lame not to include it on the 3D discs. Bizarre decision.
> 
> I only have one UHD (Ghostbusters) but no UHD player and probably won't get one for a while (I told myself 3 years ago that my Oppo 103 would be my last blu-ray player in a long time in order to justify the cost), but it seems that one major benefit of 1080p 3D on UHD is the ability to present the full 1920x1080 resolution to each eye in passive 3D. Of course, the 5040 (and all projectors I guess due to the technology?) uses active so I think it's not applicable, and unfortunately many TV makers are forgoing 3D completely on their UHD/4k sets, but that was one area for real benefit of having 1080p 3D on UHD discs.


What blu-ray player are you using? Any issues with HDR or 3D cross talking?



john barlow said:


> Sell your 103 and find the money for the 203, it's worth it. The latest firmware for the 203 improved everything. I'm still stunned at the PQ and SQ. Watched Great Wall of China last night on a blu uhd with atmos. Amazing. Reference disc now. Best immersive sound I've ever heard. It was shockingly good. I had to watch it twice. Shallows UHD is great also. Don't hang on to your 103, upgrade. You will not regret it.


Any cross talking when using 3D on the 203? I can't decide between the 203 and the panny ub900.


----------



## john barlow

impetigo said:


> Thanks, although it seems the noise issue is from 4k enhancement with blu-ray source (24 or 60hz) for me, it's totally gone when I turn it off. I didn't appreciate much improvement with a 1080p BD so I don't really care (for now, but would eventually like to use it). The fan itself is not bad at all at Eco (almost soothing), but medium is too loud (it's 14" from my head!). Luckily, I have it zoomed all the way in (so shortest throw distance) and so the image brightness does not suffer at all even at Eco.
> 
> 
> 
> I had many of the same questions between the Panasonic AE8000U and the 5040UB and having "upgraded" I don't really notice or appreciate much in the way of image quality improvement. I do like the improved feature set like motorized everything (lens shutter cap/cover, zoom, focus, lens shift as well as memory), decent zooming and lens shift (vert and horizontal), etc.
> 
> People have complained about motion handling but frankly I have tried to see if it's particularly bad and I really can't notice it being below average and I have stopped looking for it as it doesn't bother me at all.
> 
> No screen door effect from typical viewing distances. By about 8' I don't see any SDE with a 110" diagonal 16x9 image. Probably won't be an issue unless you have an enormous screen and sit pretty close.
> 
> Don't know much about the 4k enhancement or pixel shifting or whatever as I usually have it turned off as it causes a bothersome humming noise when receiving a 1080/60p signal. Supposedly it doesn't happen with a 24hz signal but I get it then too. No issue when it's off though.
> 
> If I didn't need all the motorized shifting and memory I would probably return it (just got it a week ago) and get the new 4k optoma dlp (the rgbrgb one, supposed to be $3,300).


As far as the that goes, I don't know enough about the performance of the Optoma to agree or disagree. I think you should play around with the 5040 a little longer. it grows on you. That being said, I know that I will eventually buy a pj that is better able to render HDR, DolbyVision and other upcoming must have upgrades. This is an interim piece for me and let me just say that I've been able to dial in picture quality that the Panny 8000 isn't capable of rendering on my screen. It's the sum of all the parts in a hone cinema that give the viewer the end result. There are many features, controls and choices we've never had before. Be patient and I'll bet you learn to love this projector which at 2499. is a steal.


----------



## john barlow

sddp said:


> SIGN ME UP!!
> 
> 
> That is my BIGGEST gripe. I only found one title searching our entire Planet that had 4K AND 3D: IMAX: Journey to Space
> It was on sale too! at BestBuy $14.99
> 
> 
> I don't have the budget or the space to buy the 4K and 3D version. So it's always a toss up on which to go with and frustrating since this PJ does a great job with both and I can't understand why we can't have our cake and eat it too.
> I don't mind spending a little more the 4K/3D combo. Just not willing to spend the usual $29.00 for the 3D and $39.99 for the 4K making it like $75 w/tax


New Ghostbusters and Angry Birds UHD and Blu ray 3d, Plus standard 2D blu ray included.


----------



## john barlow

BuGsArEtAsTy said:


> If they did that I'd probably mostly just stop buying the UHD discs, and get the much cheaper 2D Blu-ray. That would make the studios unhappy.
> 
> The UHD disc only works in one player in my house. The other TVs in the house have regular Blu-ray players. Like most people I have zero use for a 3D version, regardless of price.


Bugs, they include the 2D as well, so, everyone should be happy except CRT owners with standard DVD. So sad for them,


----------



## john barlow

sddp said:


> I think the logic behind that is the amount of space required for 3D is so large that it doesn't allow for Atmos as well as the limit of date rate too. Notice how most if not all 3D Blu Ray disc do NOT have any previews at all, where the standard Blu Ray that comes in the set has like half an hour of previews, extras, etc.
> 
> 
> There is a way around this. Buy just the stander Blu Ray that has the Atmos and buy a 3D-Bee Diamond series which convert 2D to 3D. This does a SUPERIOUR job compared to what any TV or projectors built in 2D to 3D can ever do, Its actually as good if not better than 3D discs


I'm not sure that there isn't room for the extra data, how much disc space could it possibly use to enhance the Dolby True HD or DTS HD Master Audio soundtrack? More than likely it's derived from the same marketing scheme that has us upgrading all our home theater equipment every other year. I don't want to get in to it with anyone about this but, we're being taken advantage of by greedy people. Why is their any question whether consumer electronics companies could be a little more considerate to their customers and not build products that become obsolete almost as soon as they hit the American market? It's many consumer based industries follow this model. They understand especially in our hobby that we are totally obsessed people.


----------



## BuGsArEtAsTy

john barlow said:


> Bugs, they include the 2D as well, so, everyone should be happy except CRT owners with standard DVD. So sad for them,


3D discs don't automatically include the 2D version. Many 3D releases have a separate 2D disc as you know, for whatever reason. And are some two-sided combo discs? There are even rare 3D-only releases with no 2D included at all, either on the same disc or as a separate disc.

Also, how does the encoding work? Can having the 2D and the 3D on the same single non-double-sided disc potentially cause a problem in terms of storage space?


----------



## impetigo

mikecoscia said:


> What blu-ray player are you using? Any issues with HDR or 3D cross talking?
> 
> Any cross talking when using 3D on the 203? I can't decide between the 203 and the panny ub900.


I'm using a BDP 103 actually, which I've decided to stick with for now and just ordered a multi-region hack cable so I can finally watch Ratatouille in 3D (region B). 



john barlow said:


> As far as the that goes, I don't know enough about the performance of the Optoma to agree or disagree. I think you should play around with the 5040 a little longer. it grows on you. That being said, I know that I will eventually buy a pj that is better able to render HDR, DolbyVision and other upcoming must have upgrades. This is an interim piece for me and let me just say that I've been able to dial in picture quality that the Panny 8000 isn't capable of rendering on my screen. It's the sum of all the parts in a hone cinema that give the viewer the end result. There are many features, controls and choices we've never had before. Be patient and I'll bet you learn to love this projector which at 2499. is a steal.


Overall, I'm pretty happy with the 5040, maybe 90% satisfied. I plan on keeping it for at least 5 years (I kept my 8000 for 3.5 years and my AW15 for almost 4 years so that would be a record for me). My next PJ will probably be a true 4k with 3D and all the features the 5040 has, hopefully 5 years will be enough to bring it down in price to what the 5040 costs now.


----------



## BuGsArEtAsTy

john barlow said:


> I'm not sure that there isn't room for the extra data, how much disc space could it possibly use to enhance the Dolby True HD or DTS HD Master Audio soundtrack? More than likely it's derived from the same marketing scheme that has us upgrading all our home theater equipment every other year. I don't want to get in to it with anyone about this but, we're being taken advantage of by greedy people. Why is their any question whether consumer electronics companies could be a little more considerate to their customers and not build products that become obsolete almost as soon as they hit the American market? It's many consumer based industries follow this model. They understand especially in our hobby that we are totally obsessed people.


One thing to note is that there is at least one technical reason to leave Atmos off regular Blu-ray discs, I must admit.

Atmos requires bitstreaming, but TrueHD and Atmos on discs with seamless branching will cause old Blu-ray players to freak out with bitstreamed audio. This was fixed on later players, but AFAIK, no UHD players have this problem, since all of them came out long after this was a thing.


----------



## jladner

sddp said:


> I think the logic behind that is the amount of space required for 3D is so large that it doesn't allow for Atmos as well as the limit of date rate too.


The Batman vs. Superman 3D disc has dolby atmos. And it is, of course, awesome..


----------



## hnupe

*Firmware update??? What does it do?*



john barlow said:


> Could any owners of this projector that have performed the currently offered firmware upgrade for the 5040 share some insight with me on any positive improvements they've noted. I am somewhat puzzled that it's not talked about much. In my Oppo 203 thread, buzz about firmware is non stop.


I am in same boat, I have not updated yet because I'm not sure if it improves anything. Any thoughts?


----------



## longhornsk57

john barlow said:


> If this question doesn't come up at least every week, the earth must have fallen off its axis. At Amazon, the preferred glasses for many of us are the Value Vue glasses. Great price, excellent 3D rendering with little to no deleterious weaknesses. The glasses my better half prefers and they are pretty good, although, I prefer the Value Vue because they are more comfortable with my eyeglasses. They are the Samsung 3d glasses with the charger and on button on the end of the handle that fits over your right ear. My other gripe with the Samsung glasses is, they don't fold up. Very hard to store these in something to prevent dust buildup. Other than that, I have wound up sending back most of the other glasses that do give an image, albeit a very crappy image. Beware.


Can you link these?

Can't find them on Amazon.


----------



## bigabit

DireWolf08 said:


> As for your question about using a Harmony activity to switch to the right settings: I messed with trying to do this for a while. My approach tried to set up an activity startup macro and I could not get it to work. Let me know if you figure it out though!


This is definitely doable. Just add the steps to the Customize Activity section using the desktop Harmony app. Don't think you can do it from the mobile app or remote. You can add sequences to activity start and end. So you could have your HDR activity load Harpervsion on load and then switch back to SDR presets on exit. Then your SDR activity doesn't have to do anything.

What's a bummer for me is that obviously you see all the menus come up. Kind of ruins the vibe for me. I wish that Epson had a Memory 1 and Memory 2 for presets like they do for lens position.


----------



## john barlow

jladner said:


> The Batman vs. Superman 3D disc has dolby atmos. And it is, of course, awesome..


I just watched Star Trek Beyond 3D with Atmos. I also remember Fury Road 3D in Atmos as well. Plays well on the 203. Also plays well on my previous player the Oppo 103D. If there is a limit because of technology not being ready, fine. Otherwise, stop taking advantage of consumers. Nobody should have a problem with that.


----------



## john barlow

longhornsk57 said:


> Can you link these?
> 
> Can't find them on Amazon.


https://smile.amazon.com/EPSON-Comp...394&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=Valuevue+3D+glasses


----------



## john barlow

Jameshtx said:


> Just updated firmware. But don't know what the changes are
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So, it's been a couple of days since you announced upgrading your firmware. Any improvements you may have noticed? Sharing them here would be most appreciated. I upgraded the firmware to the latest beta for my Oppo 203 and I instantly noticed improvements in both sound and picture quality across the board. I don't know what they did but, I am ecstatic about it. Another thing I noticed is when I play a UHD disc and engage HDR mode 1, the picture instantly brightens. The opposite of what used to happen when applying HDR mode 1. I'm not using blind faith for the Epson upgrade yet because it's a little trickier than the ease in which a firmware upgrade is applied to the Oppo. Plus, there is a rather ominous disclaimer warning that applying firmware is at the risk of the owner. Gee, I think I'll think this over for a bit. What the heck?


----------



## john barlow

BuGsArEtAsTy said:


> 3D discs don't automatically include the 2D version. Many 3D releases have a separate 2D disc as you know, for whatever reason. And are some two-sided combo discs? There are even rare 3D-only releases with no 2D included at all, either on the same disc or as a separate disc.
> 
> Also, how does the encoding work? Can having the 2D and the 3D on the same single non-double-sided disc potentially cause a problem in terms of storage space?


Not sure but, I know there are others lurking here that could probably add some insight.


----------



## gene4ht

john barlow said:


> So, it's been a couple of days since you announced upgrading your firmware. Any improvements you may have noticed? Sharing them here would be most appreciated.* I upgraded the firmware to the latest beta for my Oppo 203 and I instantly noticed improvements in both sound and picture quality across the board. I don't know what they did but, I am ecstatic about it.* Another thing I noticed is when I play a UHD disc and engage HDR mode 1, the picture instantly brightens. The opposite of what used to happen when applying HDR mode 1. I'm not using blind faith for the Epson upgrade yet because it's a little trickier than the ease in which a firmware upgrade is applied to the Oppo. Plus, there is a rather ominous disclaimer warning that applying firmware is at the risk of the owner. Gee, I think I'll think this over for a bit. What the heck?


Hi John...could you post the FW levels you're currently at for both the 5040 and the 203? I too have been reluctant to update FW on ANY of my pieces yet. I have been in IT my entire career and have experienced the upside and downside of SW and FW updates. It's only as good as the developers, extent/level of testing, and QC. Updating to the latest SW/FW may garner some new features and/or fixes but there's always the risk that it doesn't perform properly or perhaps introduce new issues...it's never absolutely foolproof and is a fact of life with new technology. I've been know to wait 6-12 months before updating. BTW, along with my Philips 7501 and Oppo 203, I picked up a Panasonic UB900 this past weekend to see what the "Dynamic Range Slider" fuss is all about. I had to install the 900 update to get the "Slider" function and all went well...the DRS works as advertised...brightens up the image (The Martian, The Revenent, Underworld: Blood Wars) to taste very nicely w/o adversely affecting black levels and color space. I have more testing to do but ultimately will have to make a decision to sell one or keep both! BTW: I understand your concern with updating the 5040...the process seems archaic compared to other product update procedures but I'm certain it's fine. Also, are you aware that the newest 5040 FW now forces HDR1 (instead of HDR2) for HDR content when AUTO is selected? Thanks in advance!


----------



## panman40

@ Dave Harper,

Dave, I know most of your time with the 5040/6040/ls1000 has been spent playing with HDR gamma's but have you watched much content right through so to speak ?, I'm asking as I would value your opinion on Motion.

I've just over 300 hrs on my 6040 now (uk tw9300) and I'm beginning to struggle with motion, having googled this I came across a comparison of the 9300 and LS1000 and they mentioned that the LS motion was more fluid due to the reflective panel technology. They also mentioned that the Fi on the 9300 was buggy and therefore could not be used but it can't be used anyway if 4K enhancement is used or the player is 4K upscaling.

So I'm interested in if you've seen any differences,

Thanks.


----------



## xpl0sive

philipbtz said:


> All you need for BD or other content in 1080p Rec. 709 SDR is the Natural mode as it's very good out of the box. I run these settings in Natural for BD: Gamma -1. Brightness 51, Contrast 48, Iris -20, lamp ECO, white balance 7000K. This is for a very dark room. For livingroom you should probably try gamma 0 as that's close to 2.2. Gamme -1 is around 2.4. It's very easy to save and load settings for different content. I mainly use this and harpervision for HDR stuff.


Thanks bud, I'll keep that in mind  The room will be completely black, so fairly dark. Glad that I can save both to presets.



DireWolf08 said:


> As for your question about using a Harmony activity to switch to the right settings: I messed with trying to do this for a while. My approach tried to set up an activity startup macro and I could not get it to work. Let me know if you figure it out though!


bigabit's settings worked for me, don't know why I didn't think of this before. Everything is now automated  will do the same once I get the projector.



bigabit said:


> This is definitely doable. Just add the steps to the Customize Activity section using the desktop Harmony app. Don't think you can do it from the mobile app or remote. You can add sequences to activity start and end. So you could have your HDR activity load Harpervsion on load and then switch back to SDR presets on exit. Then your SDR activity doesn't have to do anything.
> 
> What's a bummer for me is that obviously you see all the menus come up. Kind of ruins the vibe for me. I wish that Epson had a Memory 1 and Memory 2 for presets like they do for lens position.


Thanks so much for this man, didn't even occur to me to add an end sequence! I was scratching my head wondering how I get it to revert back to default lol. Got it working perfectly now.

Just an FYI, it can be done from the mobile app too, which is where I did it.

I know what you mean regarding the menus, although it's something I can live with. It isn't as slick as it would be to have a button for it as you said, but I'm just glad to have the whole thing automated now, which is nice and easy for my fiance as it means she just has to hit 1 button no matter what she is watching.


----------



## xpl0sive

Also, can anyone tell me what's the closest I can mount this projector to the screen to achieve a 100" image? I'm just trying to figure out where to place my recessed lighting and the throw distance of the projector will play a part in this as I'm contemplating putting one of the recessed lights directly behind the projector to achieve a row of 3 (have 3 framed pictures on the back wall I want to light up), so I'm just curious how far forward I can move the projector and keep the image at 100". If I don't have a lot of room to move, then I'll have to mount the projector hard up against the back wall and move the light in front of the projector instead.


----------



## aaranddeeman

xpl0sive said:


> Also, can anyone tell me what's the closest I can mount this projector to the screen to achieve a 100" image? I'm just trying to figure out where to place my recessed lighting and the throw distance of the projector will play a part in this as I'm contemplating putting one of the recessed lights directly behind the projector to achieve a row of 3 (have 3 framed pictures on the back wall I want to light up), so I'm just curious how far forward I can move the projector and keep the image at 100". If I don't have a lot of room to move, then I'll have to mount the projector hard up against the back wall and move the light in front of the projector instead.


I guess you should keep flexibility for the PJ mount. This is not going to be your last projector. Different PJs have different specs. So deciding based on just one projector would have issues in the future when you will swap it with another. So keep that in mind.
Now to the real answer to your question. Based on projectorcentral calculator, you can mount it from about 10' to 20'.


----------



## mase1981

Hey Guys, i did search before asking/commenting. but what do you guys think? 
Will Epson release a Firmware that will enable Dolby Vision on this projector (If this is not a hardware limitation case) or not?
I sent an email to support asking the same question, waiting for a reply. 
Yamaha released Dolby Vision Firmware that will hit our receivers soon (x060 series), Players starting to get the firmware as well. Movies are starting to come out with Dolby Vision. i really hope our PRJ wont become obsolete so fast...


----------



## Lesmor

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks bud, I'll keep that in mind  The room will be completely black, so fairly dark. Glad that I can save both to presets.
> 
> 
> 
> bigabit's settings worked for me, don't know why I didn't think of this before. Everything is now automated  will do the same once I get the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for this man, didn't even occur to me to add an end sequence! I was scratching my head wondering how I get it to revert back to default lol. Got it working perfectly now.
> 
> Just an FYI, it can be done from the mobile app too, which is where I did it.
> 
> I know what you mean regarding the menus, although it's something I can live with. It isn't as slick as it would be to have a button for it as you said, but I'm just glad to have the whole thing automated now, which is nice and easy for my fiance as it means she just has to hit 1 button no matter what she is watching.


I don't use a Harmony but have just recently started using CEC on all my devices so once I power up the PJ everything else just follows
Same on power down.


----------



## seplant

mase1981 said:


> Hey Guys, i did search before asking/commenting. but what do you guys think?
> Will Epson release a Firmware that will enable Dolby Vision on this projector (If this is not a hardware limitation case) or not?
> I sent an email to support asking the same question, waiting for a reply.
> Yamaha released Dolby Vision Firmware that will hit our receivers soon (x060 series), Players starting to get the firmware as well. Movies are starting to come out with Dolby Vision. i really hope our PRJ wont become obsolete so fast...


Not likely. See this post and this thread.


----------



## carp

Sorry if it's been covered guys... i have some people coming over soon to watch John Wick and want to make sure I have my settings right. So, using Dave Harper's settings for the 5040, what settings do I need to have for the Oppo 203? Forced HDR? Anything else? thanks!


----------



## Dave Harper

panman40 said:


> @ Dave Harper,
> 
> 
> 
> Dave, I know most of your time with the 5040/6040/ls1000 has been spent playing with HDR gamma's but have you watched much content right through so to speak ?, I'm asking as I would value your opinion on Motion.
> 
> 
> 
> I've just over 300 hrs on my 6040 now (uk tw9300) and I'm beginning to struggle with motion, having googled this I came across a comparison of the 9300 and LS1000 and they mentioned that the LS motion was more fluid due to the reflective panel technology. They also mentioned that the Fi on the 9300 was buggy and therefore could not be used but it can't be used anyway if 4K enhancement is used or the player is 4K upscaling.
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm interested in if you've seen any differences,
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Motion really isn't my thing, unless it's bad, really bad. I kind of like the whole 24/48Hz thing and how it replicates the movie theater experience of old. Maybe it's my age and how I grew up watching that, idk. We used to setup CRT projectors and send 48Hz DVDs using the TAW Rock+ and I loved it!

Back when I was with TAW and we patented "Judder Terminator" on the Rock video processor scalers it did make a nice difference though. It was very subtle and didn't result in this horrible soap opera effect we see now though! I just can't stand that with a passion and can't tell you how much I want to puke when I see it!!! Billy Lynn was absolutely horrible! (Acting and motion!)

The weird thing is, I recall seeing Hobbit 60Hz or whatever it was in an IMAX theater and it didn't bother me as much for some reason. 

I will say that between the 3 I have here currently, the JVC RS600 is easily the worst and borders on being close to unwatchable for me in some instances. It's easy to see frame judder on horizontal pans and I see faint "ghosts" of images like people as they move or the camera does horizontally. I wish I had TAW's Judder Terminator for that! Too many of the built in ones now just create SOE and I want to puke!

I do agree also that the next worse one is the 5040, with some of the same motion as the JVC, but to a lesser extent. Yes the LS10000 is the best and most fluid. 

Speaking of, I have to say that the Epson lasers are the hidden gems of the under $10K projector crowd. I can't believe they don't get more attention. Their images are so clean and easy on the eyes. Backgrounds are sharp and detailed without the noise of the JVCs, Sonys and lamp Epsons so it really creates a sense of depth and realism and calmness. All the traits praised about with the MUCH more expensive RS4500 and Sony 5000ES. I bet after my tweaks, the images between the LS line and those two are much closer than their prices show. The only thing I think that's completely lacking with the LS is brightness. I know some will say contrast but I don't get that feeling at all when compared to the more expensive $35K+ lasers. I would absolutely love to get my LS10500 and tweak the crap out of it with HarperVision mods and then put it up against one of them, especially the 4500. Of course it would have to be a reasonable screen size and (gulp!  ) then brightness match them.

I think Tom Norton was on to something in his LS10500 review in Sound & Vision mag saying it's the best SDR HD he's ever seen on a projector in this range (or something similar). With my mods that use SDR mode, maybe we can make that statement true for HDR as well? I should know soon, once I get one here. 





carp said:


> Sorry if it's been covered guys... i have some people coming over soon to watch John Wick and want to make sure I have my settings right. So, using Dave Harper's settings for the 5040, what settings do I need to have for the Oppo 203? Forced HDR? Anything else? thanks!



You shouldn't have to set it to forced HDR mode because the 5040 already supports HDR so it's EDID will tell the 203 that it does, so that's what it should send anyway. Set it up exactly as you would if you were going to use the 5040's normal HDR modes, but then manually switch it to SDR in the 5040 and then apply all my other settings as well. You should tweak them to your environment though, using test patterns like those found on Sony Blurays (HD and UHD) by hitting 7669 on the remote when in the main menu. Or you can download R Masciola's patterns and put them on a flash drive to play using the 203. I highly recommend this to anyone interested in UHD HDR WCG! Well worth the $30 or so bucks!


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Motion really isn't my thing, unless it's bad, really bad. I kind of like the whole 24/48Hz thing and how it replicates the movie theater experience of old. Maybe it's my age and how I grew up watching that, idk. We used to setup CRT projectors and send 48Hz DVDs using the TAW Rock+ and I loved it!
> 
> Back when I was with TAW and we patented "Judder Terminator" on the Rock video processor scalers it did make a nice difference though. It was very subtle and didn't result in this horrible soap opera effect we see now though! I just can't stand that with a passion and can't tell you how much I want to puke when I see it!!! Billy Lynn was absolutely horrible! (Acting and motion!)
> 
> The weird thing is, I recall seeing Hobbit 60Hz or whatever it was in an IMAX theater and it didn't bother me as much for some reason.
> 
> I will say that between the 3 I have here currently, the JVC RS600 is easily the worst and borders on being close to unwatchable for me in some instances. It's easy to see frame judder on horizontal pans and I see faint "ghosts" of images like people as they move or the camera does horizontally. I wish I had TAW's Judder Terminator for that! Too many of the built in ones now just create SOE and I want to puke!
> 
> I do agree also that the next worse one is the 5040, with some of the same motion as the JVC, but to a lesser extent. Yes the LS10000 is the best and most fluid.
> 
> Speaking of, I have to say that the Epson lasers are the hidden gems of the under $10K projector crowd. I can't believe they don't get more attention. Their images are so clean and easy on the eyes. Backgrounds are sharp and detailed without the noise of the JVCs, Sonys and lamp Epsons so it really creates a sense of depth and realism and calmness. All the traits praised about with the MUCH more expensive RS4500 and Sony 5000ES. I bet after my tweaks, the images between the LS line and those two are much closer than their prices show. The only thing I think that's completely lacking with the LS is brightness. I know some will say contrast but I don't get that feeling at all when compared to the more expensive $35K+ lasers. I would absolutely love to get my LS10500 and tweak the crap out of it with HarperVision mods and then put it up against one of them, especially the 4500. Of course it would have to be a reasonable screen size and (gulp!  ) then brightness match them.
> 
> I think Tom Norton was on to something in his LS10500 review in Sound & Vision mag saying it's the best SDR HD he's ever seen on a projector in this range (or something similar). With my mods that use SDR mode, maybe we can make that statement true for HDR as well? I should know soon, once I get one here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You shouldn't have to set it to forced HDR mode because the 5040 already supports HDR so it's EDID will tell the 203 that it does, so that's what it should send anyway. Set it up exactly as you would if you were going to use the 5040's normal HDR modes, but then manually switch it to SDR in the 5040 and then apply all my other settings as well. You should tweak them to your environment though, using test patterns like those found on Sony Blurays (HD and UHD) by hitting 7669 on the remote when in the main menu. Or you can download R Masciola's patterns and put them on a flash drive to play using the 203. I highly recommend this to anyone interested in UHD HDR WCG! Well worth the $30 or so bucks!


Dave! Need some info from you. My calibrator is going to recalibrate my projector since I moved ot closer to the screen.

Should I have him calibrate 4K HDR in digital cinnema then apply your settings OR put in your settings then calibrate with your settings in place? 

Please advise


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Dave! Need some info from you. My calibrator is going to recalibrate my projector since I moved ot closer to the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Should I have him calibrate 4K HDR in digital cinnema then apply your settings OR put in your settings then calibrate with your settings in place?
> 
> 
> 
> Please advise



He should calibrate using my settings. 

Please report what his impressions are too please. I would love to know if he has any tweaks or suggestions to improve it too. I know some of it isn't "by the book", but please tell him to keep an open mind and use his "artistic side" of his brain when doing it.


----------



## akgolf

Dave Harper said:


> He should calibrate using my settings.
> 
> Please report what his impressions are too please. I would love to know if he has any tweaks or suggestions to improve it too. I know some of it isn't "by the book", but please tell him to keep an open mind and use his "artistic side" of his brain when doing it.




Nice to read your thoughts on the Epson lasers. Unless something changes the LS10500 will be going in my theater room, and hopefully you'll have your LS10500 settings nailed down. If not I'll contact you when it's scheduled to arrive. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> He should calibrate using my settings.
> 
> Please report what his impressions are too please. I would love to know if he has any tweaks or suggestions to improve it too. I know some of it isn't "by the book", but please tell him to keep an open mind and use his "artistic side" of his brain when doing it.


so use your your gamma ect?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> so use your your gamma ect?



Yes. You want the exact conditions and settings that you're going to use on a daily basis.


----------



## xpl0sive

aaranddeeman said:


> I guess you should keep flexibility for the PJ mount. This is not going to be your last projector. Different PJs have different specs. So deciding based on just one projector would have issues in the future when you will swap it with another. So keep that in mind.
> Now to the real answer to your question. Based on projectorcentral calculator, you can mount it from about 10' to 20'.


Didn't think about that actually. I don't plan on upgrading for quite some time, but you're right, it's nice to have the flexibility, and even for the purpose of re-using the room later (resale).

With this in mind, I think I'll mount the projector hard up against the back wall and set up my recessed lights in front of the projector instead. 

Cheers for the info regarding the throw distance as well. I did have a look at that website initially but wasn't sure if it was correct, so I was looking for some actual experience from someone who was in the same boat, viewing this projector on a 100" screen.

Either way, if I mount against the back wall, it won't matter. Room is 12.5ft deep.


----------



## Red.Blue

Please help... I'm going crazy trying to figure out settings. Shouldn't I see "HDR" in the info instead of Bt.2020 SDR? I read above about setting SDR plus tweaking other settings to get HDR but do I have to do that? Do the "Auto" settings not work with the Oppo 203 signal? (Also, on the Oppo, when I had it set to Auto, I only got Bt.709 but now get Bt.2020 when changing the Oppo to "Forced" HDR.)


----------



## impetigo

Guys, in general are 3D glasses that work with the 5030 going to work with the 5040? I have seen some decent glasses on ebay that list compatibility with various epson home cinema projectors up to 5030 but not including 5040, I presume since the listing was made before the 5040 came out. But in general is there any reason for 3D glasses that work with the 5030 to not work with the 5040? Same tech used for both to connect glasses and PJ?


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Yes. You want the exact conditions and settings that you're going to use on a daily basis.


gotcha! 

quick question dave, I am using his sdr file but its a tad dark, can I switch from medium lamp to high lamp with out blowing out the black levels?


----------



## Oledurt

checking in...

Still watching my projector in bright cinema mode ISF calibrated for HDR. Still is a jaw dropping experience. Have a good one.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> checking in...
> 
> Still watching my projector in bright cinema mode ISF calibrated for HDR. Still is a jaw dropping experience. Have a good one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Still swapping between the two modes!, it's difficult to see the lack of WCG in bright cinema isn't it.


----------



## Oledurt

I have no complaints! It is no contest. Digital Cinema no matter how you slice it does not have the light output for HDR. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> gotcha!
> 
> 
> 
> quick question dave, I am using his sdr file but its a tad dark, can I switch from medium lamp to high lamp with out blowing out the black levels?



Just reset black level (brightness) and contrast using a pluge pattern again when you go to high lamp and you should be good to go. It shouldn't change your calibrated settings much if at all and I guarantee your eyes won't notice. I'm sure it's changed some anyway as the lamp aged so you may just be getting back to the level you had when you calibrated anyway. 





Oledurt said:


> checking in...
> 
> Still watching my projector in bright cinema mode ISF calibrated for HDR. Still is a jaw dropping experience. Have a good one.





panman40 said:


> Still swapping between the two modes!, it's difficult to see the lack of WCG in bright cinema isn't it.





Oledurt said:


> I have no complaints! It is no contest. Digital Cinema no matter how you slice it does not have the light output for HDR.



I agree Oledurt, your settings were awesome too! I just tweaked a little for my setup here. Actually if it wasn't for you I don't think I would've thought to try what I did with my HDR using SDR mode HarperVision settings, so thanks again!!! 

As far as WCG, since 709 is embedded within 2020/P3, ALL of the 709 colors are the same anyway until you exceed 709, so you won't see a difference 95% of the time regardless. It's only when they master those colors that fall outside rec709 that you even see any difference at all.


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> Motion really isn't my thing, unless it's bad, really bad. I kind of like the whole 24/48Hz thing and how it replicates the movie theater experience of old. Maybe it's my age and how I grew up watching that, idk. We used to setup CRT projectors and send 48Hz DVDs using the TAW Rock+ and I loved it!
> 
> Back when I was with TAW and we patented "Judder Terminator" on the Rock video processor scalers it did make a nice difference though. It was very subtle and didn't result in this horrible soap opera effect we see now though! I just can't stand that with a passion and can't tell you how much I want to puke when I see it!!! Billy Lynn was absolutely horrible! (Acting and motion!)
> 
> The weird thing is, I recall seeing Hobbit 60Hz or whatever it was in an IMAX theater and it didn't bother me as much for some reason.
> 
> I will say that between the 3 I have here currently, the JVC RS600 is easily the worst and borders on being close to unwatchable for me in some instances. It's easy to see frame judder on horizontal pans and I see faint "ghosts" of images like people as they move or the camera does horizontally. I wish I had TAW's Judder Terminator for that! Too many of the built in ones now just create SOE and I want to puke!
> 
> I do agree also that the next worse one is the 5040, with some of the same motion as the JVC, but to a lesser extent. Yes the LS10000 is the best and most fluid.
> 
> Speaking of, I have to say that the Epson lasers are the hidden gems of the under $10K projector crowd. I can't believe they don't get more attention. Their images are so clean and easy on the eyes. Backgrounds are sharp and detailed without the noise of the JVCs, Sonys and lamp Epsons so it really creates a sense of depth and realism and calmness. All the traits praised about with the MUCH more expensive RS4500 and Sony 5000ES. I bet after my tweaks, the images between the LS line and those two are much closer than their prices show. The only thing I think that's completely lacking with the LS is brightness. I know some will say contrast but I don't get that feeling at all when compared to the more expensive $35K+ lasers. I would absolutely love to get my LS10500 and tweak the crap out of it with HarperVision mods and then put it up against one of them, especially the 4500. Of course it would have to be a reasonable screen size and (gulp!  ) then brightness match them.
> 
> I think Tom Norton was on to something in his LS10500 review in Sound & Vision mag saying it's the best SDR HD he's ever seen on a projector in this range (or something similar). With my mods that use SDR mode, maybe we can make that statement true for HDR as well? I should know soon, once I get one here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You shouldn't have to set it to forced HDR mode because the 5040 already supports HDR so it's EDID will tell the 203 that it does, so that's what it should send anyway. Set it up exactly as you would if you were going to use the 5040's normal HDR modes, but then manually switch it to SDR in the 5040 and then apply all my other settings as well. You should tweak them to your environment though, using test patterns like those found on Sony Blurays (HD and UHD) by hitting 7669 on the remote when in the main menu. Or you can download R Masciola's patterns and put them on a flash drive to play using the 203. I highly recommend this to anyone interested in UHD HDR WCG! Well worth the $30 or so bucks!


Thanks very much for the detailed reply Dave, that makes a lot of sense, I was thinking of a future purchase of a JVC but as you pointed out it would probably end up frying pan into fire lol!.

I started using Fi on low for 3D, it worked quite well for Disney's classic beauty and the beast 3D yesterday, as you say though I hate soe too but for animation and 3D it seems to work ok.

We watched the last harry potter last night, deathly hallows pt2, in 2d and to be honest motion looked very good on that and indeed overall picture quality, what with lamps being cheap, the 5 yr warranty on the 6040 in the UK I plan on sticking with it.

I haven't had much time to mess with 3D gamma but I still aim to do so!.

Thanks again for your thoughts on motion with the 3 pjs you have.


----------



## philipbtz

Oledurt said:


> checking in...
> 
> Still watching my projector in bright cinema mode ISF calibrated for HDR. Still is a jaw dropping experience. Have a good one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


What settings are you running? Anything easy others could try or did you have to tweak the CMS a lot to get it looking good? After getting good results with Harpervision I'm keeping an open mind about settings for HDR on projectors.


----------



## Viche

Projector central just posted a preliminary comparison of the upcoming Optima 4K UHD 65 ($2499) to the Epson 5040.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/optoma-UHD60-uhd65-review.htm?em

Spoiler: Not a great gaming projector due to higher lag, and the benefit of a more detailed 4K image doesn't outweigh the other image quality advantages of the 5040 in my mind.


----------



## philipbtz

Viche said:


> Projector central just posted a preliminary comparison of the upcoming Optima 4K UHD 65 ($2499) to the Epson 5040.
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/optoma-UHD60-uhd65-review.htm?em
> 
> Spoiler: Not a great gaming projector due to higher lag, and the benefit of a more detailed 4K image doesn't outweigh the other image quality advantages of the 5040 in my mind.


I bet when the contrast measurements come in it's going to show poor black levels on that Optima.


----------



## MississippiMan

philipbtz said:


> I bet when the contrast measurements come in it's going to show poor black levels on that Optima.


That is already a given, plus considering the very limited Vertical Lens Shift...NO Horizontal Lens Shift...NO Keystone Correction...Rainbow Artifact potential...lower Lumen output....higher than desirable Fan Noise......

....and throughout the pre-review, continued statements about how for $2499.00 it would seem to be a respectable deal, all that really says is that it's a "rush out to market" projector.

A measured attempt to show how good FI is compared to other PJs, and how native 4K HDR Content looks similar to / almost "as good as' the $10K Native 4K Sony really comes off as being a flagrant, "We don't wanna hurt Optoma's feelings." kinda thing.

In any case, being a pre-production unit, all those "issues & failings" should be of primary focus, and be addressed stringently to Optoma by well known reviewers, so that they can be considered for change. I'm fairly certain all of us would enjoy seeing a great, 1 Chip DLP 4K (w/PS) PJ come out at $2999.00 if that was what was needed to deliver truly "a step above" performance at that price point.


----------



## john barlow

gene4ht said:


> Hi John...could you post the FW levels you're currently at for both the 5040 and the 203? I too have been reluctant to update FW on ANY of my pieces yet. I have been in IT my entire career and have experienced the upside and downside of SW and FW updates. It's only as good as the developers, extent/level of testing, and QC. Updating to the latest SW/FW may garner some new features and/or fixes but there's always the risk that it doesn't perform properly or perhaps introduce new issues...it's never absolutely foolproof and is a fact of life with new technology. I've been know to wait 6-12 months before updating. BTW, along with my Philips 7501 and Oppo 203, I picked up a Panasonic UB900 this past weekend to see what the "Dynamic Range Slider" fuss is all about. I had to install the 900 update to get the "Slider" function and all went well...the DRS works as advertised...brightens up the image (The Martian, The Revenent, Underworld: Blood Wars) to taste very nicely w/o adversely affecting black levels and color space. I have more testing to do but ultimately will have to make a decision to sell one or keep both! BTW: I understand your concern with updating the 5040...the process seems archaic compared to other product update procedures but I'm certain it's fine. Also, are you aware that the newest 5040 FW now forces HDR1 (instead of HDR2) for HDR content when AUTO is selected? Thanks in advance!


For the Opop 203 I've downloaded the latest Beta from thumb drive downloaded from Oppo support page for our product. I'm very satisfied with the results of that update. The Epson has the same firmware it shipped with and until I see a report from members of this forum, I don't really want to install it because I don't know what improvements if any are in this FW update. I've had no luck after multiple pleas to members of this thread. Their has been a strange mute silence which I find puzzling. Usually, this forum is a wealth of treasure on all things home theater.


----------



## Natrix1973

john barlow said:


> For the Opop 203 I've downloaded the latest Beta from thumb drive downloaded from Oppo support page for our product. I'm very satisfied with the results of that update. The Epson has the same firmware it shipped with and until I see a report from members of this forum, I don't really want to install it because I don't know what improvements if any are in this FW update. I've had no luck after multiple pleas to members of this thread. Their has been a strange mute silence which I find puzzling. Usually, this forum is a wealth of treasure on all things home theater.


Firmware was talked about back in February of this year. You can search this thread for it or go back and start reading from February on. It mainly added an Auto Bright HDR setting.


----------



## Lesmor

Natrix1973 said:


> Firmware was talked about back in February of this year. You can search this thread for it or go back and start reading from February on. It mainly added an Auto Bright HDR setting.


Also forces HDR1 instead of HDR2


----------



## gene4ht

john barlow said:


> For the Opop 203 I've downloaded the latest Beta from thumb drive downloaded from Oppo support page for our product. I'm very satisfied with the results of that update. The Epson has the same firmware it shipped with and until I see a report from members of this forum, I don't really want to install it because I don't know what improvements if any are in this FW update. I've had no luck after multiple pleas to members of this thread. Their has been a strange mute silence which I find puzzling. Usually, this forum is a wealth of treasure on all things home theater.





Natrix1973 said:


> It mainly added an Auto Bright HDR setting.





Lesmor said:


> Also defaults to HDR1 instead of HDR2


I believe I mentioned this aspect of the update in my post as well...

...the newest 5040 FW now forces HDR1 (instead of HDR2) for HDR encoded content when AUTO is selected.

Like yourself, I just wanted to understand if there was any other "significant" changes/fixes/improvements etc.


----------



## mrbeezly

Is there a simple post that has "suggested" 1080p SDR source settings and 4k SDR settings and then 4K HDR settings?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## panman40

I have been messaging Epson on the UK Facebook page a few times now regarding my request for auto detection of UHD/HDR , I think I've mentioned it here before with zero response, surely some of you owners would feel this a benefit easy update rather than manually selecting an HDR memory for a 4K disc then re selecting an SDR memory when finished ??.

I had practically zero support on the UK avforums website either, it takes just a few seconds to email Epson so please anyone interested if they can do so every message counts, thank you


----------



## carp

Dave Harper said:


> You shouldn't have to set it to forced HDR mode because the 5040 already supports HDR so it's EDID will tell the 203 that it does, so that's what it should send anyway. Set it up exactly as you would if you were going to use the 5040's normal HDR modes, but then manually switch it to SDR in the 5040 and then apply all my other settings as well. You should tweak them to your environment though, using test patterns like those found on Sony Blurays (HD and UHD) by hitting 7669 on the remote when in the main menu. Or you can download R Masciola's patterns and put them on a flash drive to play using the 203. I highly recommend this to anyone interested in UHD HDR WCG! Well worth the $30 or so bucks!


Thank you!!


----------



## Duddits

I have got my DNP supernova Black core (08-85) 100 inch ready for my 5040 
It will arrive on wednesday along with a new amplifier, Yamaha Rx-V781 and a Panasonic UB700.
Will offcourse try out Harpervision, but maybe tweaking it a little for my screen.
The only UHD Hdr disc I own is Planet earth II.

Anyone else that have Dnp combo with 5040?
Please write your experiences.


----------



## aaranddeeman

panman40 said:


> I have been messaging Epson on the UK Facebook page a few times now regarding my request for auto detection of UHD/HDR , I think I've mentioned it here before with zero response, surely some of you owners would feel this a benefit easy update rather than manually selecting an HDR memory for a 4K disc then re selecting an SDR memory when finished ??.
> 
> I had practically zero support on the UK avforums website either, it takes just a few seconds to email Epson so please anyone interested if they can do so every message counts, thank you


But it does that even today. As long as you have set the DR to Auto (or Auto Bright).
Are talking about saving it in the memory?


----------



## panman40

aaranddeeman said:


> But it does that even today. As long as you have set the DR to Auto (or Auto Bright).
> Are talking about saving it in the memory?


No I don't mean a memory, when you put a 3D disc in the picture mode and along with all your 3D settings are automatically triggered without having to manually select a memory. What would make sense is if the Epson auto detected a UHD disc in the same manner then there's no need to be selecting to and fro memories. This would I my opinion be very easy for Epson implement into a future f/w I'm sure, indeed Epson believe it to be an excellent idea and have passed on my request to the relative techinical departments, I just think the more that request it the more likely of it happening


----------



## Bejoy

I apologize if this has been asked before, but, is it possible to update the firmware without using USB? I have the Epson connected to my Marantz 7010 (my player is the Panasonic UB900), and I also have the Epson hard wire connected via Ethernet cable. Is there a way to update via the Ethernet cable? I purchased the projector in January and it was installed Januray 21st, so it has whatever firware it comes with it I think, I didn't see any option for "automatic updates" on the Epson menus.. Thanks!


----------



## Lesmor

panman40 said:


> No I don't mean a memory, when you put a 3D disc in the picture mode and along with all your 3D settings are automatically triggered without having to manually select a memory. What would make sense is if the Epson auto detected a UHD disc in the same manner then there's no need to be selecting to and fro memories. This would I my opinion be very easy for Epson implement into a future f/w I'm sure, indeed Epson believe it to be an excellent idea and have passed on my request to the relative techinical departments, I just think the more that request it the more likely of it happening


It is disappointing that you have not had any support for this suggestion Martin
As I understand it thats how it works on Television sets, but up till now not on a projector.

Surely it would be better to insert a disc and have the Epson to switch to the relevant SDR or UHD HDR settings than mess around manually selecting a memory.

Unless Epson owner's request this in numbers it will be a missed opportunity,probably only to appear on the next new range of Epson projectors

Please make the effort to support this request either by contacting Epson direct or via Epson's Facebook and social media sites.


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> It is disappointing that you have not had any support for this suggestion Martin
> As I understand it thats how it works on Television sets, but up till now not on a projector.
> 
> Surely it would be better to insert a disc and have the Epson to switch to the relevant SDR or UHD HDR settings than mess around manually selecting a memory.
> 
> Unless Epson owner's request this in numbers it will be a missed opportunity,probably only to appear on the next new range of Epson projectors
> 
> Please make the effort to support this request either by contacting Epson direct or via Epson's Facebook and social media sites.


Thanks Andy, appreciated. I think perhaps 3 of us over on the other forum made contact with Epson but oddly I don't think anyone else has yet..

I know when I go from 2d to 3d I don't have to touch anything, as you say TV does this for uhd, I'm sure they can simply set that up within a f/w to do the same thing quite easily.

Thanks again for the support.

Martin.


----------



## Natrix1973

Bejoy said:


> I apologize if this has been asked before, but, is it possible to update the firmware without using USB? I have the Epson connected to my Marantz 7010 (my player is the Panasonic UB900), and I also have the Epson hard wire connected via Ethernet cable. Is there a way to update via the Ethernet cable? I purchased the projector in January and it was installed Januray 21st, so it has whatever firware it comes with it I think, I didn't see any option for "automatic updates" on the Epson menus.. Thanks!


No, you have to use USB.


----------



## diddy5584

Need some Help!

I have the 5040ub mounted a little over 14 feet from screen. Screen is 135 inch Aeon from elite screens with no bezel. Mount is Chief RPA series. I have been working on adjusting it for at least 3 hours and I can not get it to completely fill the screen. I am not "zoomed" out all the way I can actually make is about 1 foot bigger than the screen so I know that is not the issue, but when I get it all lined up it has at least 2-3 inches left on either the top or bottom of the screen. I am attaching a picture for reference. I have adjusted the keystone to -14 and that seems to bring the top and bottom corners in line with each other. 

Any Help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## panman40

diddy5584 said:


> Need some Help!
> 
> I have the 5040ub mounted a little over 14 feet from screen. Screen is 135 inch Aeon from elite screens with no bezel. Mount is Chief RPA series. I have been working on adjusting it for at least 3 hours and I can not get it to completely fill the screen. I am not "zoomed" out all the way I can actually make is about 1 foot bigger than the screen so I know that is not the issue, but when I get it all lined up it has at least 2-3 inches left on either the top or bottom of the screen. I am attaching a picture for reference. I have adjusted the keystone to -14 and that seems to bring the top and bottom corners in line with each other.
> 
> Any Help is greatly appreciated.


It's best not to use keystone if you can, try levelling the projector then use shift to re align.


----------



## diddy5584

panman40 said:


> It's best not to use keystone if you can, try levelling the projector then use shift to re align.


I tried not using keystone and adjusting the mount, it was still smaller at the top than it is at the bottom by about 1.5-2 inches or so. I am not sure if it is the height of the PJ compared to the screen or what. PJ is at about 8' max 8'6" at center of lens. screen is centered on wall with top side being roughly 17-18 inches from ceiling height. I would say all total it is about a 12-14 inch drop from mid lens to top of screen. I can reset when I get home and show what I see with no settings/ adjustments. 

It is a tad frustrating, and I know the first words out of my wife's mouth is that we should have just gotten a 75" lcd... This is by far a more superior product and I know that, just not sure what I am doing wrong, or if I have a defective unit. This will be the second unit sent to me as the first had a horrible buzzing sound anytime video passed to it.:frown:


----------



## panman40

diddy5584 said:


> I tried not using keystone and adjusting the mount, it was still smaller at the top than it is at the bottom by about 1.5-2 inches or so. I am not sure if it is the height of the PJ compared to the screen or what. PJ is at about 8' max 8'6" at center of lens. screen is centered on wall with top side being roughly 17-18 inches from ceiling height. I would say all total it is about a 12-14 inch drop from mid lens to top of screen. I can reset when I get home and show what I see with no settings/ adjustments.
> 
> It is a tad frustrating, and I know the first words out of my wife's mouth is that we should have just gotten a 75" lcd... This is by far a more superior product and I know that, just not sure what I am doing wrong, or if I have a defective unit. This will be the second unit sent to me as the first had a horrible buzzing sound anytime video passed to it.:frown:


I used a small spirit level on top (bottom as PJ is upside down) to make sure it was level, from memory it the image is narrower at the top you need to angle the projector up more then use more downshift, I may have that the wrong way around though but just try angling it up first and readjusting lens shift, if it's worse then angle it down more a readjust. As you say though reset keystone first.


----------



## diddy5584

panman40 said:


> I used a small spirit level on top (bottom as PJ is upside down) to make sure it was level, from memory it the image is narrower at the top you need to angle the projector up more then use more downshift, I may have that the wrong way around though but just try angling it up first and readjusting lens shift, if it's worse then angle it down more a readjust. As you say though reset keystone first.


I know the projector is not level. What you are say is to make it level and then move the image once it is level and get it where I want it? I was having a couple of pj nuts I work with look at my pictures and they are also questioning the squareness of my screen. It is all kind of making sense now. If I am angled down and using keystone to correct and the PJ is not squared up that may be what is causing my issues. I should be home in the next few hours and will adjust. Hopefully this resolves it.

I really appreciate all the insight over the last few hours!


----------



## Natrix1973

diddy5584 said:


> Need some Help!
> 
> I have the 5040ub mounted a little over 14 feet from screen. Screen is 135 inch Aeon from elite screens with no bezel. Mount is Chief RPA series. I have been working on adjusting it for at least 3 hours and I can not get it to completely fill the screen. I am not "zoomed" out all the way I can actually make is about 1 foot bigger than the screen so I know that is not the issue, but when I get it all lined up it has at least 2-3 inches left on either the top or bottom of the screen. I am attaching a picture for reference. I have adjusted the keystone to -14 and that seems to bring the top and bottom corners in line with each other.
> 
> Any Help is greatly appreciated.


Check that your screen is level all around as well. You might need to put some shims behind the frame to square it up.


----------



## bommai

If one side of the screen has a larger image, then that side of the projector is further away from the screen. So turn the projector so they this problem goes away. You can then use lens shift to adjust the image. I did not use any keystone correction. I only used vertical shift and some horizontal shift. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

If your screen is not plumb / level and PJ is not level and square to the screen you are going to have a hell of a time.


----------



## smoothlonghorn

So, with some trepidation, I'm jumping in here. I have a 5040 scheduled for delivery and set up (from local home theater shop) on Friday. Screen will be on large wall in the living room, so there is a fair amount of ambient light (wife and I aren't necessarily movie junkies, so we're hoping that won't be a huge issue). Will be running through new Denon AVRX2300W for surround set-up. I have been reading this thread a fair amount, but this is our first projector, so I'm not ready to tackle the Harpervision settings (yet), but I do want to ask about an HD player (as I think that relates to those settings/picture quality).

Has there been any feedback on the Sony UBP-X800? We have not tried 3D before, and yes I have read about those issues with the 5040, so I'm not sure it is even worth it, but I would not mind having the option to try it.
Sony PS4 Pro/XBox One S? Based on some posts, I think there have been some issues getting the correct HD settings sent from there?

For now, I think adding an HD player is about the only necessary upgrade, but would certainly welcome any other thoughts/advice. Thanks already for all the great information and great forum.


----------



## Younger38

Sorry if this has been mentioned but does anyone have any more info on whether XBOX One S is working for HDR with the Epson 5040 or if either Microsoft or Epson have indicated a fix could be coming?


----------



## Dave Harper

smoothlonghorn said:


> So, with some trepidation, I'm jumping in here. I have a 5040 scheduled for delivery and set up (from local home theater shop) on Friday. Screen will be on large wall in the living room, so there is a fair amount of ambient light (wife and I aren't necessarily movie junkies, so we're hoping that won't be a huge issue). Will be running through new Denon AVRX2300W for surround set-up. I have been reading this thread a fair amount, *but this is our first projector, so I'm not ready to tackle the Harpervision settings (yet)*, but I do want to ask about an HD player (as I think that relates to those settings/picture quality).
> 
> 
> 
> Has there been any feedback on the Sony UBP-X800? We have not tried 3D before, and yes I have read about those issues with the 5040, so I'm not sure it is even worth it, but I would not mind having the option to try it.
> 
> Sony PS4 Pro/XBox One S? Based on some posts, I think there have been some issues getting the correct HD settings sent from there?
> 
> 
> 
> For now, I think adding an HD player is about the only necessary upgrade, but would certainly welcome any other thoughts/advice. Thanks already for all the great information and great forum.



Don't hesitate trying my settings. It really isn't that hard. Just follow the directions and input the settings listed in the link below my signature here.

Or for the faint of heart, my ISF Calibrated and HarperVision modded 5040 is for sale anyway. I'm moving on to trying it on new projectors like the LS10500 and maybe the Optoma UHD65.


----------



## powjunky

First, I would like to say how pleased I am with my 5040ub and Elite Screens CineGray 5D. Phenomenal picture watching Blurays and streaming HD! Plenty of brightness in the dark or with ambient light and great contrast with the ALR screen. The color is spot on watching mostly on bright cinema and the lens is sharp edge to edge. Much sharper than the Epson 3700 I tried. The lens shift made install a breeze. 3D Bluerays have been stunning with very little to no crosstalk. Family and friends have been having a great time with it, and I am amazed every time I watch! 

My question is about WCG and HDR. I played Planet Earth 2 on UHD Bluray on the Xbox One for the first time last night and it looked beautiful when the 5040 dynamic range was set to Auto Bright and showed an identical picture when set to SDR. Setting the color gamut to rec2020 made the color more saturated with more pop, if not more accurate. However, if set to HDR1 the picture looked horrible. It had plenty of brightness, but the color was way off. Way over saturated and unnatural and the colors looked to be clipping, with a posterized look. The Xbox One is set to 4K, 12-bit output with 4:4:2 enabled. The 5040 shows rec2020 and 12bit coming in. If I set HDMI range to extended, it seems to calm the picture down a little, but something is very off. All other picture presets are at the factory default. The Xbox is passing through a Pioneer Elite SC-LX701. What settings am I missing to get an accurate picture?


----------



## impetigo

I noticed last night that when I hit the power button on the remote the 5040 actually turns off fairly quickly. With my AE8000 and older Sony aw15, the PJ would stay on for 5-10 minutes hitting the power off button, so that the fan can continue to cool the projector down sufficiently (the lamp I presume). It's not a new thing but just something I noticed for the first time. I've had my 5040 for a couple weeks now and it works perfectly fine. Is this normal behavior?

With the 5040 it turned off very quickly, less then 30 seconds I think, and it had been actively projecting video before that. The 5040 felt warm to the touch but not overly so I didn't think. I also noticed that only the left fan exhaust seem to get hot air blowing out of it, the other one doesn't seem to get air flow. Can anyone confirm that this is normal for the 5040, and it just doesn't need as long of a cooling down period as projectors in the past?


----------



## woodhead2

Dave Harper said:


> Don't hesitate trying my settings. It really isn't that hard. Just follow the directions and input the settings listed in the link below my signature here.
> 
> Or for the faint of heart, my ISF Calibrated and HarperVision modded 5040 is for sale anyway. I'm moving on to trying it on new projectors like the LS10500 and maybe the Optoma UHD65.


How much are you asking?


----------



## Dave Harper

powjunky said:


> First, I would like to say how pleased I am with my 5040ub and Elite Screens CineGray 5D. Phenomenal picture watching Blurays and streaming HD! Plenty of brightness in the dark or with ambient light and great contrast with the ALR screen. The color is spot on watching mostly on bright cinema and the lens is sharp edge to edge. Much sharper than the Epson 3700 I tried. The lens shift made install a breeze. 3D Bluerays have been stunning with very little to no crosstalk. Family and friends have been having a great time with it, and I am amazed every time I watch!
> 
> My question is about WCG and HDR. I played Planet Earth 2 on UHD Bluray on the Xbox One for the first time last night and it looked beautiful when the 5040 dynamic range was set to Auto Bright and showed an identical picture when set to SDR. Setting the color gamut to rec2020 made the color more saturated with more pop, if not more accurate. However, if set to HDR1 the picture looked horrible. It had plenty of brightness, but the color was way off. Way over saturated and unnatural and the colors looked to be clipping, with a posterized look. The Xbox One is set to 4K, 12-bit output with 4:4:2 enabled. The 5040 shows rec2020 and 12bit coming in. If I set HDMI range to extended, it seems to calm the picture down a little, but something is very off. All other picture presets are at the factory default. The Xbox is passing through a Pioneer Elite SC-LX701. What settings am I missing to get an accurate picture?


It doesn't sound like the XB1S is sending the HDR signal to your 5040. That is why it looks so oversaturated, overblown and the colors are off. Go into the Advanced Display HDMI settings and make sure the "HDR" selection is available and selected.




woodhead2 said:


> How much are you asking?


We aren't supposed to talk sales and pricing on the open forum. I can PM you.


----------



## powjunky

Dave Harper said:


> It doesn't sound like the XB1S is sending the HDR signal to your 5040. That is why it looks so oversaturated, overblown and the colors are off. Go into the Advanced Display HDMI settings and make sure the "HDR" selection is available and selected.


Ok, I will take a look at that tonight. Thanks.

*Another question*: I noticed that when using the XB1S the 4k enhancement feature is greyed out in the menu and not select able. Is this normal and it is automatically engaged for 4k content or does that mean it is not engaged if it is gray? Noticed this while watching the Planet Earth and while playing a game.


----------



## Jameshtx

john barlow said:


> So, it's been a couple of days since you announced upgrading your firmware. Any improvements you may have noticed? Sharing them here would be most appreciated. I upgraded the firmware to the latest beta for my Oppo 203 and I instantly noticed improvements in both sound and picture quality across the board. I don't know what they did but, I am ecstatic about it. Another thing I noticed is when I play a UHD disc and engage HDR mode 1, the picture instantly brightens. The opposite of what used to happen when applying HDR mode 1. I'm not using blind faith for the Epson upgrade yet because it's a little trickier than the ease in which a firmware upgrade is applied to the Oppo. Plus, there is a rather ominous disclaimer warning that applying firmware is at the risk of the owner. Gee, I think I'll think this over for a bit. What the heck?




John,

Sorry for my late reply and I just seen your comment. I haven't turned on my projector ever since my update until last night. When I first power it on, it hesitated like trying to start your car on a cold day. It kept wanting to die out but it hanged on eventually. 

Popped in Transformers blu ray and everything looked normal. I'm really new to a/v and not sure what I should really look out for. Wish I could be more of help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

smoothlonghorn said:


> So, with some trepidation, I'm jumping in here. I have a 5040 scheduled for delivery and set up (from local home theater shop) on Friday. Screen will be on large wall in the living room, so there is a fair amount of ambient light (wife and I aren't necessarily movie junkies, so we're hoping that won't be a huge issue). Will be running through new Denon AVRX2300W for surround set-up. I have been reading this thread a fair amount, but this is our first projector, so I'm not ready to tackle the Harpervision settings (yet), but I do want to ask about an HD player (as I think that relates to those settings/picture quality).
> 
> Has there been any feedback on the Sony UBP-X800? We have not tried 3D before, and yes I have read about those issues with the 5040, so I'm not sure it is even worth it, but I would not mind having the option to try it.
> Sony PS4 Pro/XBox One S? Based on some posts, I think there have been some issues getting the correct HD settings sent from there?
> 
> For now, I think adding an HD player is about the only necessary upgrade, but would certainly welcome any other thoughts/advice. Thanks already for all the great information and great forum.


Place any trepidation you may have to the side. Understand that most of what you read on these threads are from enthusiasts and purists...translation: experienced and likely very picky owners. Someday, you too may arrive at this juncture but not until you've owned enough projectors to have an enthusiast's reference point. The 5040 is a very fine projector for its price point and holds its own very well against its competition...all have strengths and minor weaknesses. But more to your situation. The 5040 is a relatively "bright" projector among its peers. Direct daylight through large or many windows will wash out an image for any projector. Moderate indoor indirect/ambient lighting should not present problems. Reducing indoor lighting and closing window coverings will result in very acceptable and watchable images. In short order, you'll get a feel what pleases you when comparing a day time image to a night time image. As a different point of reference, the experienced enthusiasts prefer images in a completely light controlled (no windows, no lights, dark ceiling, walls, and floors) room to obtain the maximum black levels and contrast...the so called "man cave." Regardless, I have no doubt you and your family will be amazed with the 5040's image the first time you turn it on in your living room. The man cave is further down the road!

UHD Player: I own three...the Philips 7501, the Panasonic 900, and the Oppo 203. From a pure image standpoint...the differences between the three are very subtle...most people likely could not tell the difference unless compared side by side. I suspect the Sony's image quality is very similar. The differences are in build quality, support capabilities, features...some want/need them...others don't, and perceived brand value. Since I have all three players, I am not endorsing any particular unit but IMO the Philips has 95% of the image quality at 1/3 the cost of the Panny and Oppo. I have no experience with the Sony but its MSRP falls in between these.

Note: Upscaled 1080 BluRays are handled beautifully on this projector. However, be aware that some 4K BluRays that are HDR encoded will be too dark for many people's taste. This is due to two things: (1) film makers don't yet adhere to a common standard for mastering HDR content and (2) current projectors do not have sufficient lumens/brightness to be HDR worthy...many flat panel displays do. Among other things, this is where HarperVison comes into play...to improve the dark transfers. 

3D: I originally had "zero" interest and experience with 3D on a projector. But because the 5040 has 3D capability and at the recommendation of several owners here, I decided to give it a try. Bottom line, it was worthy of everyone's recommendations. My family thoroughly enjoys the added value 3D brings to the big screen. I will also add that my experience with 3D issues were either non-existent or extremely minimal. I had to make an effort to look for "cross talk" to find it...apparently content and settings dependent. But I also recognize that some units were defective or mis-adjusted in some way...but were corrected or exchanged by Epson.

Game Consoles: Can't assist here...perhaps others could chime in.

I just wanted to provide a slightly different perspective to alleviate some of your apprehension/trepidation You have a great experience awaiting you...ENJOY!!!


----------



## jwhn

Younger38 said:


> Sorry if this has been mentioned but does anyone have any more info on whether XBOX One S is working for HDR with the Epson 5040 or if either Microsoft or Epson have indicated a fix could be coming?


Yes, with the exception of Netflix


----------



## jaggajatt

Dave Harper said:


> jaggajatt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Dave, hope your keeping well...I first just wanted to say thank you for contribution to this thread been a massive help!
> 
> I'm struggling to find the correct settings for SDR content your settings works great for HDR, my source is an Nvidia Sheild (set output 4k24 4:2:2 12bit). Would you/anyone else here be able to share or PM me with your SDR settings including RGB Offset/Gains, CMS and gamma? Also, are there any changes to RGB Offset/Gains and CMS can suggested for Harpervision HDR setting?
> 
> Really appreciate any help you can provide, I've spent numerous hours toying and understand your setting may not correlate 100% really just need a solid baseline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome very much jaggajatt! Others have asked for this recently too and I am working on just that. Hopefully I will have time before the end of the weekend. I wll post here with my settings when I have them all compiled.
Click to expand...

Hi Dave, would you be able to post or pm your SDR settings before you part with the projector? Would really be appreciated


----------



## bluer101

impetigo said:


> I noticed last night that when I hit the power button on the remote the 5040 actually turns off fairly quickly. With my AE8000 and older Sony aw15, the PJ would stay on for 5-10 minutes hitting the power off button, so that the fan can continue to cool the projector down sufficiently (the lamp I presume). It's not a new thing but just something I noticed for the first time. I've had my 5040 for a couple weeks now and it works perfectly fine. Is this normal behavior?
> 
> With the 5040 it turned off very quickly, less then 30 seconds I think, and it had been actively projecting video before that. The 5040 felt warm to the touch but not overly so I didn't think. I also noticed that only the left fan exhaust seem to get hot air blowing out of it, the other one doesn't seem to get air flow. Can anyone confirm that this is normal for the 5040, and it just doesn't need as long of a cooling down period as projectors in the past?


Yes, it's normal. I wish they would add a cool down like other pj's.


----------



## Dave Harper

jaggajatt said:


> Hi Dave, would you be able to post or pm your SDR settings before you part with the projector? Would really be appreciated



Yes I'm sorry. I thought maybe I did that already, but it could've been for another model. I apologize but I haven't had a lot of time lately and I was on vacation for a week as well. 

I have to do a JVC RS600 calibration tonight but I'll try to work on this soon too.


----------



## gene4ht

impetigo said:


> Can anyone confirm that this is normal for the 5040, and it just doesn't need as long of a cooling down period as projectors in the past?





bluer101 said:


> Yes, it's normal. I wish they would add a cool down like other pj's.


My prior PJs also had a "cool down" period. It was also concerning to me that the 5040 shut down immediately without cooling down. What's more, sometimes upon power up, the 5040's fan spins for a short time before the lamp lights up. This is exactly how my 5040 performs...if this is normal, then this is normal. Perhaps Epson could provide an explanation for this counter intuitive behavior?


----------



## Younger38

Would a 5040 owner be able to measure the exact width of the 5040 at its widest point. Specs seem to indicate 20.5 inches but other specs show 520mm which is slightly smaller than 20.5. I have a built in to the drywall shelf and I am very close 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## impetigo

bluer101 said:


> Yes, it's normal. I wish they would add a cool down like other pj's.


Thanks! I was a little concerned but glad to hear it's "normal" for this projector. I would hope that it just doesn't need additional cooling down time with the fan to get to a safe shut down temperature.



gene4ht said:


> My prior PJs also had a "cool down" period. It was also concerning to me that the 5040 shut down immediately without cooling down. What's more, sometimes upon power up, the 5040's fan spins for a short time before the lamp lights up. This is exactly how my 5040 performs...if this is normal, then this is normal. Perhaps Epson could provide an explanation for this counter intuitive behavior?


Thanks, this definitely helps! I remember I was so paranoid with my first projector that there could be a power outage while it was operating or cooling down and so I had bought this $200 backup battery thing (it was quite large) that all my AV equipment plugged into so that in the case of power outage it would keep them going for a while. I got rid of it when I moved a couple years later and haven't gotten one again. Having that huge battery was scarier than potential power outage while the projector was on.



Younger38 said:


> Would a 5040 owner be able to measure the exact width of the 5040 at its widest point. Specs seem to indicate 20.5 inches but other specs show 520mm which is slightly smaller than 20.5. I have a built in to the drywall shelf and I am very close
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I measured with a tape measure as carefully as I can (tricky because of the rounded shape), and got approximately 20.25" wide. It looks close to 20" than 20.5" but 20.25" is probably pretty close. 520mm is 20.47" and I would say it's definitely not wider than that. 

Even though the air vents are in the front only, I probably wouldn't put it in too tight a space as the projector probably needs to space around it for heat to dissipate from the surface, which does get quite warm to the touch, especially the bottom left (or top right when ceiling mounted).


----------



## bluer101

gene4ht said:


> My prior PJs also had a "cool down" period. It was also concerning to me that the 5040 shut down immediately without cooling down. What's more, sometimes upon power up, the 5040's fan spins for a short time before the lamp lights up. This is exactly how my 5040 performs...if this is normal, then this is normal. Perhaps Epson could provide an explanation for this counter intuitive behavior?


Yes, some people including me have reported the random longer startup, aka turbo fan.


----------



## Younger38

impetigo said:


> I measured with a tape measure as carefully as I can (tricky because of the rounded shape), and got approximately 20.25" wide. It looks close to 20" than 20.5" but 20.25" is probably pretty close. 520mm is 20.47" and I would say it's definitely not wider than that.
> 
> Even though the air vents are in the front only, I probably wouldn't put it in too tight a space as the projector probably needs to space around it for heat to dissipate from the surface, which does get quite warm to the touch, especially the bottom left (or top right when ceiling mounted).





bluer101 said:


> Yes, some people including me have reported the random longer startup, aka turbo fan.


Thanks so much @impetigo I am good in all directions only the width was a challenge. Thanks for the tips on where the unit gets warm as well.


----------



## Lesmor

Same here force cooling turbo fan on startup
Also the user guide is full of what I assume is false information

*Page 94 of the user guide
Cool-down in progress
All operations are disabled while the projector is cooling-down.
The projector enters standby condition when cool-down is complete.
If for any reason the power cord is disconnected during
cool-down, wait until the lamp has cooled down sufficiently
(about 10 minutes), reconnect the power cord, and then press
the button on the remote control, or the button on the
control panel.*

So what's the deal
The guide clearly says it has a cool down process


Add to that the guide also says on page 25

*Connect using the power cord
supplied.
The projector's power indicator turns blue.
This indicates that the projector is receiving
power, but is not yet turned on (it is in
standby mode)*
That is certainly not true either


----------



## Jameshtx

Does anyone know if Epson is going to come out with an update to support Dolby Vision? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

bluer101 said:


> Yes, some people including me have reported the random longer startup, aka turbo fan.





Lesmor said:


> Same here force cooling turbo fan on startup


So what appears to be abnormal is normal? At any rate, I will also contact Epson today to report/inquire/request a formal explanation of this behavior.


----------



## drhankz

Jameshtx said:


> Does anyone know if Epson is going to come out with an update to support Dolby Vision?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I do not know the answer to your question - - - *But Someone in another link has an opinion*


----------



## gene4ht

Jameshtx said:


> Does anyone know if Epson is going to come out with an update to support Dolby Vision?


Not likely anytime soon for any projector...see the link below for previous discussions.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...041-dolby-vision-coming-front-projectors.html


----------



## gene4ht

After posting the comment above...other thoughts occurred to me. The marketplace is driven by consumer demand and competition. It would not be unreasonable to think that human ingenuity could produce a technological solution overnight if revenue and the marketplace demanded it. Of course, relatively speaking, the PJ market is a small niche market compared to the flat panel market. There's always two sides to every story...just thinking out loud about the other side. It's possible, DV could come sooner rather than later for PJs.


----------



## GregCh

Jameshtx said:


> Does anyone know if Epson is going to come out with an update to support Dolby Vision?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Epson can't update the current projector with a firmware update to support DolbyVision. DolbyVision requires special licensing and a high-end processing chip to support it. In addition, DolbyVision standards have not been established for consumer projectors. 

That is not to say that Epson, Sony, and JVC might someday support DolbyVision in a new model of projector. But none of the current projectors can just be updated with a firmware update.

If that was possible then they would have announced future DolbyVision support the way Oppo, Marantz, Denon, Yamaha, Sony, and others have for their 2017 AVRs and certain 2017 TVs.


----------



## GregCh

gene4ht said:


> After posting the comment above...other thoughts occurred to me. The marketplace is driven by consumer demand and competition. It would not be unreasonable to think that human ingenuity could produce a technological solution overnight if revenue and the marketplace demanded it. Of course, relatively speaking, the PJ market is a small niche market compared to the flat panel market. There's always two sides to every story...just thinking out loud about the other side. It's possible, DV could come sooner rather than later for PJs.


It could but standards need to be established for consumer projectors. How will they determine the proper scaling factors when they have no idea of your room environment, the type of screen you have, distance from the screen, etc. It would require some sort of feedback loop from an exterior light meter mounted near the viewer. 

If DolbyVision happens in consumer projectors, I would expect Sony to have it first, since they already have a license from Dolby to include DolbyVision for their new big screen TVs. They also have developed the X1 Extreme video processing unit that have the power to support DolbyVision on consumer display devices.


----------



## gene4ht

GregCh said:


> It could but standards need to be established for consumer projectors. How will they determine the proper scaling factors when they have no idea of your room environment, the type of screen you have, distance from the screen, etc. It would require some sort of feedback loop from an exterior light meter mounted near the viewer.
> 
> If DolbyVision happens in consumer projectors, I would expect Sony to have it first, since they already have a license from Dolby to include DolbyVision for their new big screen TVs. They also have developed the X1 Extreme video processing unit that have the power to support DolbyVision on consumer display devices.


Your points are well taken and based on the challenges as they are understood today. My points are creativity and thinking outside of the box could possibly yield solutions sooner than expected. Regardless, I'm hopeful that we PJ owners will also be able to enjoy DV's benefits.


----------



## jason_galaxy

smoothlonghorn said:


> Has there been any feedback on the Sony UBP-X800? We have not tried 3D before, and yes I have read about those issues with the 5040, so I'm not sure it is even worth it, but I would not mind having the option to try it.
> Sony PS4 Pro/XBox One S? Based on some posts, I think there have been some issues getting the correct HD settings sent from there?


I tried the Phillips and now own the Sony UBP-X800. Hands down the Sony is better for
apps and picture quality. I ran into one issue that won't affect you, the wireless transmitter
on the 5040UBE can't handle video and bitstream audio from the X800 (when BD
audio mix is turned off), and the sync up time can be a little slow when changing modes on
the Sony, again, this is a wireless issue which won't affect you. Epson said when using
the wireless transmitter, only feed it video, fortunately you can do this with the Sony.

Netflix and Youtube 4k HDR from the Sony are excellent. Some 4K disks were too dark until
I upgraded to the latest firmware with bright HDR. 

This is on a $300 Silver Ticket 135" screen. Plenty bright even in ECO mode. I'm blown away by this projector. 

Have fun!


----------



## Snoogleheimer

gene4ht said:


> Place any trepidation you may have to the side. Understand that most of what you read on these threads are from enthusiasts and purists...translation: experienced and likely very picky owners.  Someday, you too may arrive at this juncture but not until you've owned enough projectors to have an enthusiast's reference point. The 5040 is a very fine projector for its price point and holds its own very well against its competition...all have strengths and minor weaknesses. But more to your situation. The 5040 is a relatively "bright" projector among its peers. Direct daylight through large or many windows will wash out an image for any projector. Moderate indoor indirect/ambient lighting should not present problems. Reducing indoor lighting and closing window coverings will result in very acceptable and watchable images. In short order, you'll get a feel what pleases you when comparing a day time image to a night time image. As a different point of reference, the experienced enthusiasts prefer images in a completely light controlled (no windows, no lights, dark ceiling, walls, and floors) room to obtain the maximum black levels and contrast...the so called "man cave." Regardless, I have no doubt you and your family will be amazed with the 5040's image the first time you turn it on in your living room. The man cave is further down the road!
> 
> UHD Player: I own three...the Philips 7501, the Panasonic 900, and the Oppo 203. From a pure image standpoint...the differences between the three are very subtle...most people likely could not tell the difference unless compared side by side. I suspect the Sony's image quality is very similar. The differences are in build quality, support capabilities, features...some want/need them...others don't, and perceived brand value. Since I have all three players, I am not endorsing any particular unit but IMO the Philips has 95% of the image quality at 1/3 the cost of the Panny and Oppo. I have no experience with the Sony but its MSRP falls in between these.
> 
> Note: Upscaled 1080 BluRays are handled beautifully on this projector. However, be aware that some 4K BluRays that are HDR encoded will be too dark for many people's taste. This is due to two things: (1) film makers don't yet adhere to a common standard for mastering HDR content and (2) current projectors do not have sufficient lumens/brightness to be HDR worthy...many flat panel displays do. Among other things, this is where HarperVison comes into play...to improve the dark transfers.
> 
> 3D: I originally had "zero" interest and experience with 3D on a projector. But because the 5040 has 3D capability and at the recommendation of several owners here, I decided to give it a try. Bottom line, it was worthy of everyone's recommendations. My family thoroughly enjoys the added value 3D brings to the big screen. I will also add that my experience with 3D issues were either non-existent or extremely minimal. I had to make an effort to look for "cross talk" to find it...apparently content and settings dependent. But I also recognize that some units were defective or mis-adjusted in some way...but were corrected or exchanged by Epson.
> 
> Game Consoles: Can't assist here...perhaps others could chime in.
> 
> I just wanted to provide a slightly different perspective to alleviate some of your apprehension/trepidation You have a great experience awaiting you...ENJOY!!!


I sure love mine. It's my first PJ and WOW! I'm hooked for life now. I think this is a really good first PJ.


----------



## smoothlonghorn

Dave--thanks so much for the reply! I'm sure I will be attempting to apply your settings once everything is up & running....and I reasonably believe that I won't break anything too badly 

gene4ht--a special thank you for the thoughts and detailed reply! I had been gathering bits & pieces of that while trying to comb through the vast amounts of useful information on this thread (and elsewhere on the site), but that summed up much of it succinctly. Probably going to take the plunge on the Sony 4k player via a local Best Buy so we have that to try after installation, but an easy return option if it doesn't work out.

Thanks again to you both, and all on here, for all the useful information--newbies would be lost without it!


----------



## gene4ht

Snoogleheimer said:


> I sure love mine. It's my first PJ and WOW! I'm hooked for life now. *I think this is a really good first PJ*.


No question! My first PJ was no where close to the features and image quality of the 5040. If this is your first PJ, consider yourself extremely fortunate.


----------



## akgolf

Dave Harper said:


> Don't hesitate trying my settings. It really isn't that hard. Just follow the directions and input the settings listed in the link below my signature here.
> 
> Or for the faint of heart, my ISF Calibrated and HarperVision modded 5040 is for sale anyway. I'm moving on to trying it on new projectors like the LS10500 and maybe the Optoma UHD65.




Dave, when will you be getting the LS10500 to play with?

That's still at the top of my list and would really like your input. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Valleyboy

Dave Harper said:


> Yes I'm sorry. I thought maybe I did that already, but it could've been for another model. I apologize but I haven't had a lot of time lately and I was on vacation for a week as well.
> 
> I have to do a JVC RS600 calibration tonight but I'll try to work on this soon too.


As one of your newbie acolytes, I too have been checking this post every day to see if you've posted your SDR settings. Am terribly disappointed you chose a vacation over catering to our projector needs


----------



## Dave Harper

Valleyboy said:


> As one of your newbie acolytes, I too have been checking this post every day to see if you've posted your SDR settings. Am terribly disappointed you chose a vacation over catering to our projector needs



You guys crack me up! 

Sorry still, not only did I go on vacation but my daughter and granddaughter came home the day we got back, so of course I've been schmoozing and loving all over them and making them the priority! 

I also had to do my final calibrations and HarperVision tweaks on the RS600 I just sold. Wow....that thing is a beast! Image quality to die for and after final calibration it just floored me that it is just an eShift unit. The new owner will be very happy indeed! I am starting to have second thoughts. 




akgolf said:


> Dave, when will you be getting the LS10500 to play with?
> 
> That's still at the top of my list and would really like your input.


It should be here within the next two weeks. 





Jameshtx said:


> Does anyone know if Epson is going to come out with an update to support Dolby Vision?



DolbyVision, ShmolbyVision! Who needs DolbyVision when you got *"HarperVision"* (Patent Pending)!!!


----------



## GregCh

Dave Harper said:


> You guys crack me up!
> 
> Sorry still, not only did I go on vacation but my daughter and granddaughter came home the day we got back, so of course I've been schmoozing and loving all over them and making them the priority!


So Dave, what projector are you keeping?

You sold your RS600 and are in the process of selling your Epson 5040UB and have an Epson LS10500 coming soon. Of these three you will have to let us know which is your favorite and why?


----------



## akgolf

GregCh said:


> So Dave, what projector are you keeping?
> 
> 
> 
> You sold your RS600 and are in the process of selling your Epson 5040UB and have an Epson LS10500 coming soon. Of these three you will have to let us know which is your favorite and why?




I second this. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Dave Harper said:


> Sorry still, not only did I go on vacation but my daughter and granddaughter came home the day we got back, so of course I've been schmoozing and loving all over them and making them the priority!


We have more in common than just PJs....except mine are grandsons....as they say...the best things in life are free!



Dave Harper said:


> DolbyVision, ShmolbyVision! Who needs DolbyVision when you got *"HarperVision"* (Patent Pending)!!!


Can we get a big AMEN!!!


----------



## rustolemite

I intend to read through the entire thread this weekend but just had a 2 quick questions, please.
1st. Is fan noise, my PJ will be mounted about 4ft. right above my head will the fan be noticeable in quiet moment?
2nd. Overall use, can this PJ or any other be used for long continuous use, I spend all my time in front of my HT either watching
movies, gaming or on PC, most weekends my system is on for an average of 18 hours in a row. Can the PJ handle that without overheating.
I know it will use up bulbs faster but am okay with that since I still replace them in my Mits DLP.

Thanks.


----------



## gene4ht

Just a quick update on my previous post regarding fan activity during power down and power up: Epson's technical (1st level phone) support informed me that fan activity follows this model's "instant on" and "instant off" design parameters. It was explained to me that when the PJ is powered on, everything (fan included) is powered on and when powered off, everything (fan included) is powered off. As counter intuitive as this seems to be for heat dissipation, this model's normal behavior is to allow the lamp to cool down naturally..


----------



## Lesmor

gene4ht said:


> Just a quick update on my previous post regarding fan activity during power down and power up: Epson's technical (1st level phone) support informed me that fan activity follows this model's "instant on" and "instant off" design parameters. It was explained to me that when the PJ is powered on, everything (fan included) is powered on and when powered off, everything (fan included) is powered off. As counter intuitive as this seems to be for heat dissipation, this model's normal behavior is to allow the lamp to cool down naturally..


If the lamp design is to cool down naturally when you power down,whats the consequence of immediately switching it back on?
Do you not run the risk of force cooling the lamp only to heat it back up again?


----------



## gene4ht

rustolemite said:


> I intend to read through the entire thread this weekend but just had a 2 quick questions, please.
> 1st. Is fan noise, my PJ will be mounted about 4ft. right above my head will the fan be noticeable in quiet moment?
> 2nd. Overall use, can this PJ or any other be used for long continuous use, I spend all my time in front of my HT either watching
> movies, gaming or on PC, most weekends my system is on for an average of 18 hours in a row. Can the PJ handle that without overheating.
> I know it will use up bulbs faster but am okay with that since I still replace them in my Mits DLP.
> 
> Thanks.


Fan noise varies from projector to projector and sensitivity to fan noise varies from person to person. My projector is mounted exactly 4' from the MLP. I can honestly say, the 5040's fan noise is not noticeable by me...during quiet passages or any other time. Others may have different experiences. Relative to continuous use for a projector, I have never seen/read of any spec for a projector's continuous duty cycle and its effects. Perhaps a member here could chime in with their experience or SME knowledge. Alternatively, I would recommend contacting the manufacturer for this type of information.


----------



## gene4ht

Lesmor said:


> If the lamp design is to cool down naturally when you power down,whats the consequence of immediately switching it back on?
> Do you not run the risk of force cooling the lamp only to heat it back up again?


Can't disagree with your logic. It took 20 minutes to get the response that I posted! It was challenging to challenge 1st level support personnel. You have my blessing to make the next call.


----------



## GregCh

rustolemite said:


> I intend to read through the entire thread this weekend but just had a 2 quick questions, please.
> 1st. Is fan noise, my PJ will be mounted about 4ft. right above my head will the fan be noticeable in quiet moment?
> 2nd. Overall use, can this PJ or any other be used for long continuous use, I spend all my time in front of my HT either watching
> movies, gaming or on PC, most weekends my system is on for an average of 18 hours in a row. Can the PJ handle that without overheating.
> I know it will use up bulbs faster but am okay with that since I still replace them in my Mits DLP.
> 
> Thanks.


I live at high altitude and must run bulb projectors on high fan all the time. I demoed the 5040UB projector at a local dealer and with the fan on high, it drove me up the wall. I would not want this unit 4' from my head during a movie. I found the fan noise to be much higher than the Sony 45ES or the JVC RS420 when in high fan mode. 

I don't know for certain about your other question, maybe somebody who runs their projector in continuous operation could chime in, but I would think you would be fine. As long as the room is cool enough, and the fan is running on the projector, it should run continuously. I also suspect that if it did encounter a situation where it was starting to overheat that the electronics would shutdown to prevent damage.


----------



## rustolemite

gene4ht said:


> Fan noise varies from projector to projector and sensitivity to fan noise varies from person to person. My projector is mounted exactly 4' from the MLP. I can honestly say, the 5040's fan noise is not noticeable by me...during quiet passages or any other time. Others may have different experiences. Relative to continuous use for a projector, I have never seen/read of any spec for a projector's continuous duty cycle and its effects. Perhaps a member here could chime in with their experience or SME knowledge. Alternatively, I would recommend contacting the manufacturer for this type of information.


Thank you very much for the info, that's what I had read so far about the fan the only time it's truly quiet in my room is when surfing the internet but even then a/c is running or something else.
Really want to learn more about continuous use as this PJ will be my only video setup.


----------



## rustolemite

GregCh said:


> I live at high altitude and must run bulb projectors on high fan all the time. I demoed the 5040UB projector at a local dealer and with the fan on high, it drove me up the wall. I would not want this unit 4' from my head during a movie. I found the fan noise to be much higher than the Sony 45ES or the JVC RS420 when in high fan mode.
> 
> I don't know for certain about your other question, maybe somebody who runs their projector in continuous operation could chime in, but I would think you would be fine. As long as the room is cool enough, and the fan is running on the projector, it should run continuously. I also suspect that if it did encounter a situation where it was starting to overheat that the electronics would shutdown to prevent damage.


Well that sucks to hear, hope its the case for all models.


----------



## Dave Harper

GregCh said:


> So Dave, what projector are you keeping?
> 
> 
> 
> You sold your RS600 and are in the process of selling your Epson 5040UB and have an Epson LS10500 coming soon. Of these three you will have to let us know which is your favorite and why?





akgolf said:


> I second this.



So far the best for me seems to be the LS10000 overall. The only thing lacking compared to the JVC is overall brightness and a smidge of extra contrast. It is so clean and smooth and detailed with the laser. I can't wait to try the LS10500 and see what extra it gives me.


----------



## Jameshtx

gene4ht said:


> Not likely anytime soon for any projector...see the link below for previous discussions.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...041-dolby-vision-coming-front-projectors.html




oh okay thx


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

GregCh said:


> Epson can't update the current projector with a firmware update to support DolbyVision. DolbyVision requires special licensing and a high-end processing chip to support it. In addition, DolbyVision standards have not been established for consumer projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> That is not to say that Epson, Sony, and JVC might someday support DolbyVision in a new model of projector. But none of the current projectors can just be updated with a firmware update.
> 
> 
> 
> If that was possible then they would have announced future DolbyVision support the way Oppo, Marantz, Denon, Yamaha, Sony, and others have for their 2017 AVRs and certain 2017 TVs.




I see. So as of right now, no pjs currently support dolby vision - got it thx


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

Dave Harper said:


> You guys crack me up!
> 
> Sorry still, not only did I go on vacation but my daughter and granddaughter came home the day we got back, so of course I've been schmoozing and loving all over them and making them the priority!
> 
> I also had to do my final calibrations and HarperVision tweaks on the RS600 I just sold. Wow....that thing is a beast! Image quality to die for and after final calibration it just floored me that it is just an eShift unit. The new owner will be very happy indeed! I am starting to have second thoughts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should be here within the next two weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DolbyVision, ShmolbyVision! Who needs DolbyVision when you got *"HarperVision"* (Patent Pending)!!!




I'm with you Dave 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Just reset black level (brightness) and contrast using a pluge pattern again when you go to high lamp and you should be good to go. It shouldn't change your calibrated settings much if at all and I guarantee your eyes won't notice. I'm sure it's changed some anyway as the lamp aged so you may just be getting back to the level you had when you calibrated anyway.


Dave, dumb question, can i use the xbox 1s calibration app to reset brightness and contrast?


----------



## panman40

gene4ht said:


> Just a quick update on my previous post regarding fan activity during power down and power up: Epson's technical (1st level phone) support informed me that fan activity follows this model's "instant on" and "instant off" design parameters. It was explained to me that when the PJ is powered on, everything (fan included) is powered on and when powered off, everything (fan included) is powered off. As counter intuitive as this seems to be for heat dissipation, this model's normal behavior is to allow the lamp to cool down naturally..


I don't suppose he mentioned why the Epson has occasional 1 minute high fan / no image start ups from cold ?. I just don't see the point of cooling an already cold lamp !.


----------



## mikecoscia

jason_galaxy said:


> I tried the Phillips and now own the Sony UBP-X800. Hands down the Sony is better for
> apps and picture quality. I ran into one issue that won't affect you, the wireless transmitter
> on the 5040UBE can't handle video and bitstream audio from the X800 (when BD
> audio mix is turned off), and the sync up time can be a little slow when changing modes on
> the Sony, again, this is a wireless issue which won't affect you. Epson said when using
> the wireless transmitter, only feed it video, fortunately you can do this with the Sony.
> 
> Netflix and Youtube 4k HDR from the Sony are excellent. Some 4K disks were too dark until
> I upgraded to the latest firmware with bright HDR.
> 
> This is on a $300 Silver Ticket 135" screen. Plenty bright even in ECO mode. I'm blown away by this projector.
> 
> Have fun!


Does Netflix actually stream HDR with the Sony x800?


----------



## gene4ht

panman40 said:


> I don't suppose he mentioned why the Epson has occasional 1 minute high fan / no image start ups from cold ?. I just don't see the point of cooling an already cold lamp !.





gene4ht said:


> Can't disagree with your logic. It took 20 minutes to get the response that I posted!* It was challenging to challenge 1st level support personnel.* You have my blessing to make the next call.


At the onset of our discussion, I inquired about both scenarios of the unusual fan behavior (a) fan off when powering down and (b) fan on when powering up. During the course of the 20 minute call (rep went back and forth to his supervisor) , I received awkward and implausible explanations for part (a) which ended with "it was designed by the engineers to be instant on and instant off." After this, my patience was overtaxed and I elected not to further pursue part (b). It was obvious that 1st level support did not have the script, knowledge, or ability to answer these questions adequately. Out of curiosity, I may pursue this again at a later date. However, I realize the true answer will likely lie at a much higher level...sometimes only at the engineering level. In the meantime, I guess it's just good knowing that this is "normal" operation for the 5040.


----------



## jason_galaxy

mikecoscia said:


> Does Netflix actually stream HDR with the Sony x800?



Yes. I see "HDR" listed in the projector info when streaming shows listed as HDR, SDR otherwise.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Dave, dumb question, can i use the xbox 1s calibration app to reset brightness and contrast?



I've used it in the past and have had good results if I recall.


----------



## Lesmor

gene4ht said:


> At the onset of our discussion, I inquired about both scenarios of the unusual fan behavior (a) fan off when powering down and (b) fan on when powering up. During the course of the 20 minute call (rep went back and forth to his supervisor) , I received awkward and implausible explanations for part (a) which ended with "it was designed by the engineers to be instant on and instant off." After this, my patience was overtaxed and I elected not to further pursue part (b). It was obvious that 1st level support did not have the script, knowledge, or ability to answer these questions adequately. Out of curiosity, I may pursue this again at a later date. However, I realize the true answer will likely lie at a much higher level...sometimes only at the engineering level. In the meantime, I guess it's just good knowing that this is "normal" operation for the 5040.


Thanks gene I appreciate your efforts
Having 1st line contact if you are unable to get to the bottom of it then we have no chance.
If by any chance you do pursue it again it would be interesting to know why the user guide is so full of conflicting statements which were posted further back in the thread.
As you say at least every owners Epson is showing the same behaviour


----------



## socalsharky

Sorry if this has been asked in this thread before, but my searches have come up empty, and looking through 8817 messages is not an option.

I want to mount my Epson 5040 as close to my 8-foot ceiling as I can. I will be using one of the recommended Chief mounts, plus a backing board, so the top of the PJ will ideally be 4-5 inches from the ceiling. 

The top of my 127" screen will be about 15 inches from the ceiling.

Are there any issues created by this setup? Should I look into lowering the PJ somewhat?

TIA.


----------



## gene4ht

socalsharky said:


> I want to mount my Epson 5040 as close to my 8-foot ceiling as I can. I will be using one of the recommended Chief mounts, plus a backing board, so the top of the PJ will ideally be 4-5 inches from the ceiling.
> 
> The top of my 127" screen will be about 15 inches from the ceiling.
> 
> Are there any issues created by this setup? Should I look into lowering the PJ somewhat?


For the past 17 years, my past projectors have been mounted 3"- 4" from the ceiling. Using a Chief RPA mount and an SLB357 custom bracket, the top of my current projector (5040) is exactly 3" from the ceiling...absolutely no issues.


----------



## socalsharky

gene4ht said:


> For the past 17 years, my past projectors have been mounted 3"- 4" from the ceiling. Using a Chief RPA mount and an SLB357 custom bracket, the top of my current projector (5040) is exactly 3" from the ceiling...absolutely no issues.


Where is your screen mounted, relative to the ceiling? I assume your screen is not ALR, correct? Thx.


----------



## john barlow

rustolemite said:


> I intend to read through the entire thread this weekend but just had a 2 quick questions, please.
> 1st. Is fan noise, my PJ will be mounted about 4ft. right above my head will the fan be noticeable in quiet moment?
> 2nd. Overall use, can this PJ or any other be used for long continuous use, I spend all my time in front of my HT either watching
> movies, gaming or on PC, most weekends my system is on for an average of 18 hours in a row. Can the PJ handle that without overheating.
> I know it will use up bulbs faster but am okay with that since I still replace them in my Mits DLP.
> 
> Thanks.


During quiet passages, you may hear fan noise. You can reduce your lamp from high to medium for a quieter fan. I didn't use my ceiling mount after unboxing. This projector is much larger than the Panasonic it replaced. I decided to construct my own shelf for the rear wall, 18' from the screen. I used 3/4" wood and two sturdy L brackets that I purchased from Lowes. I painted the shelf and brackets flat black, to match the walls and ceiling of my home cinema. Fan noise is rarely an issue due to the loudness levels I typically listen at. I grew up listening to music at rock arenas, so loud music is my forte. This projector has been known to run 18 hours a day without issue. Check your filter, and pay attention to your system so as not to overload it. Common sense. I use this pj for everything except during sleeping and a flat panel for HD dreams. Learn the settings. Memorize them. There are so many great settings for the user and a great remote. You should be able to flesh a great image from any content, unless that content is SH_T. Cheers on your acquisition of my favorite projector until they replace it.


----------



## gene4ht

socalsharky said:


> Where is your screen mounted, relative to the ceiling? I assume your screen is not ALR, correct? Thx.


As I have complete light control in a dedicated theater, I do not have an ALR screen. Relative to your question, the top of the screen's 3" frame is 11" from the ceiling with the top of the image at 14" from the ceiling.


----------



## robc1976

socalsharky said:


> Where is your screen mounted, relative to the ceiling? I assume your screen is not ALR, correct? Thx.


my projector is 5-3/4" from ceiling and screen is 4-1/4" from ceiling. Works perfectly


----------



## robc1976

I see a lot of people complaining about fan noise, this can almost be eliminate with sound treatments. I actually have a completely treated room and where projector sits I have a row of 244 GIK accoustiv panels in front of projector. I then moved 2 panels to the sides 18-20" from sides of projector and with fan on high and projector directly above my head 4ft above I can not hear it. My buddy has same projector with it 5ft above head but no panels and its loud. 3 panels in front/ sides will make a world of difference. 


Thought I would throw this out there,


----------



## gene4ht

smoothlonghorn said:


> gene4ht--a special thank you for the thoughts and detailed reply! I had been gathering bits & pieces of that while trying to comb through the vast amounts of useful information on this thread (and elsewhere on the site), but that summed up much of it succinctly. Probably going to take the plunge on the Sony 4k player via a local Best Buy so we have that to try after installation, but an easy return option if it doesn't work out.


Responding to the previous question about ALR screens reminded me of something you may be interested in at some point. It wasn't quite clear to me if you were projecting onto your living room wall or mounting a screen on your living room wall. In any case, should you be doing this long term and wish to maximize image quality and minimize ambient light effects for your room conditions, you may want to consider an Ambient Light Rejecting (ALR) screen.

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/how-do-light-rejecting-screens-work

Also, FYI, the July/August issue of Sound & Review has a favorable review of the Sony UBP-X800. From both a price and features/performance perspective, it appears to settle in nicely between the Philips and Panny/Oppo players.


----------



## rustolemite

john barlow said:


> During quiet passages, you may hear fan noise. You can reduce your lamp from high to medium for a quieter fan. I didn't use my ceiling mount after unboxing. This projector is much larger than the Panasonic it replaced. I decided to construct my own shelf for the rear wall, 18' from the screen. I used 3/4" wood and two sturdy L brackets that I purchased from Lowes. I painted the shelf and brackets flat black, to match the walls and ceiling of my home cinema. Fan noise is rarely an issue due to the loudness levels I typically listen at. I grew up listening to music at rock arenas, so loud music is my forte. This projector has been known to run 18 hours a day without issue. Check your filter, and pay attention to your system so as not to overload it. Common sense. I use this pj for everything except during sleeping and a flat panel for HD dreams. Learn the settings. Memorize them. There are so many great settings for the user and a great remote. You should be able to flesh a great image from any content, unless that content is SH_T. Cheers on your acquisition of my favorite projector until they replace it.


Thank you very much for your input, I am also going to put the Espon on a shelf, I have a ceiling huggar fan between it and where the screen will be so hope won't be a problem. Still trying to see if I can get a 130" screen in my 8ft ceiling room, will need room underneath for my center channel speaker.
Good to hear about use, as the Epson will be for everything will have no other video option. Mon-Thurs usually about 4 hours a night but on weekends Fri-Sun it can run for up to 18 hours continuously.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I've used it in the past and have had good results if I recall.


 this is weird, my calibration must have been dark. I was having issue with dark areas in my game where I literally couldn't see so I used high lamp but it was still dark. The colors looked great though. I decided to try the Xbox calibration just for brightness and contrast.

Brightness was on 44 and moved up to 55
Contrast was at 65 and it moved down to 57

Is Xbox calibration app that far off or was my calibration dark?. Only change I made was I moved projector forward 5ft


----------



## Dave Harper

It could have been you were on PC/Extended mode (0-255) for one and Video (16-235) mode with the other. You have to be consistent.


----------



## Boggle

are harpervision settings for all content? or just HDR content? im using my 5040ub for gaming, movies all from htpc


----------



## Dave Harper

Boggle said:


> are harpervision settings for all content? or just HDR content? im using my 5040ub for gaming, movies all from htpc


The settings listed here and what people refer to as "HarperVision" are for HDR only.


----------



## Steven414

I”ve been waiting for the first DLP enhanced 4K PJ to come out, which has just been released by Optoma for $2000. That excited me... for a minute... until I found that the new Optoma is not offering 3D, which was a deal breaker for me. I want to have the option to enjoy 3D content in my home theater for the immersive factor, on a large screen. 

So I've been reading some great reviews for the 5040 over the past year, and have been curiously tempted to purchase. I decided that I cannot wait any longer, and I just pulled the trigger on the 5040. It will be delivered Tuesday.


----------



## panman40

Steven414 said:


> I”ve been waiting for the first DLP enhanced 4K PJ to come out, which has just been released by Optoma for $2000. That excited me... for a minute... until I found that the new Optoma is not offering 3D, which was a deal breaker for me. I want to have the option to enjoy 3D content in my home theater for the immersive factor, on a large screen.
> 
> So I've been reading some great reviews for the 5040 over the past year, and have been curiously tempted to purchase. I decided that I cannot wait any longer, and I just pulled the trigger on the 5040. It will be delivered Tuesday.


Big mistake on optomas part if you ask me, DLP 3D is about as good as it gets so why on earth drop your trump card..


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> I see a lot of people complaining about fan noise, this can almost be eliminate with sound treatments. I actually have a completely treated room and where projector sits I have a row of 244 GIK accoustiv panels in front of projector. I then moved 2 panels to the sides 18-20" from sides of projector and with fan on high and projector directly above my head 4ft above I can not hear it. My buddy has same projector with it 5ft above head but no panels and its loud. 3 panels in front/ sides will make a world of difference.
> 
> 
> Thought I would throw this out there,


Any chance of some pictures of this please ?.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> It could have been you were on PC/Extended mode (0-255) for one and Video (16-235) mode with the other. You have to be consistent.


 I will check, this is in xbox settings correct?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I will check, this is in xbox settings correct?



Yes, I think they're called Standard (16-235) and RGB-PC (0-255) if I recall.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Steven414 said:


> I”ve been waiting for the first DLP enhanced 4K PJ to come out, which has just been released by Optoma for $2000. That excited me... for a minute... until I found that the new Optoma is not offering 3D, which was a deal breaker for me. I want to have the option to enjoy 3D content in my home theater for the immersive factor, on a large screen.
> 
> So I've been reading some great reviews for the 5040 over the past year, and have been curiously tempted to purchase. I decided that I cannot wait any longer, and I just pulled the trigger on the 5040. It will be delivered Tuesday.


You'll be very pleased. I sure love mine.


----------



## impetigo

rustolemite said:


> I intend to read through the entire thread this weekend but just had a 2 quick questions, please.
> 1st. Is fan noise, my PJ will be mounted about 4ft. right above my head will the fan be noticeable in quiet moment?
> 2nd. Overall use, can this PJ or any other be used for long continuous use, I spend all my time in front of my HT either watching
> movies, gaming or on PC, most weekends my system is on for an average of 18 hours in a row. Can the PJ handle that without overheating.
> I know it will use up bulbs faster but am okay with that since I still replace them in my Mits DLP.
> 
> Thanks.


I have the 5040 mounted literally less than 1.5 feet from the top of my head and on ECO mode it is not noticeable almost at all. The sound is a medium-low pitch humming in the background which is not noticeable even during quiet moments. My old Panasonic AE8000U had a horrible high pitch noise that bothered me but I learned to ignore it eventually but the 5040 noise is really not bad. In medium fan though, it is definitely louder and noticeable and high fan is rather loud. With the proximity of the projector to our heads we just use ECO which is plenty bright since we have it on max zoom (110" from 11' back) and have good light control.



gene4ht said:


> Just a quick update on my previous post regarding fan activity during power down and power up: Epson's technical (1st level phone) support informed me that fan activity follows this model's "instant on" and "instant off" design parameters. It was explained to me that when the PJ is powered on, everything (fan included) is powered on and when powered off, everything (fan included) is powered off. As counter intuitive as this seems to be for heat dissipation, this model's normal behavior is to allow the lamp to cool down naturally..


My 5040 has an "instant off" for sure, now that I'm monitoring it I notice it turns off almost instantly, every time. Also, the high fan noise when it starts up for about 10-15 seconds until the lamps starts projecting an image. Odd and hopefully it doesn't mean the projector has a shorter life span or problems down the road related to poor cooling internally.


----------



## bluer101

impetigo said:


> I have the 5040 mounted literally less than 1.5 feet from the top of my head and on ECO mode it is not noticeable almost at all. The sound is a medium-low pitch humming in the background which is not noticeable even during quiet moments. My old Panasonic AE8000U had a horrible high pitch noise that bothered me but I learned to ignore it eventually but the 5040 noise is really not bad. In medium fan though, it is definitely louder and noticeable and high fan is rather loud. With the proximity of the projector to our heads we just use ECO which is plenty bright since we have it on max zoom (110" from 11' back) and have good light control.
> 
> 
> 
> My 5040 has an "instant off" for sure, now that I'm monitoring it I notice it turns off almost instantly, every time. Also, the high fan noise when it starts up for about 10-15 seconds until the lamps starts projecting an image. Odd and hopefully it doesn't mean the projector has a shorter life span or problems down the road related to poor cooling internally.


On power off the lens cover closes and shuts down immediately. Then normal power up is quick. Lens cover opens then about 2-3 seconds Epson appears all eco fan noise. Then every now and then get the high fan noise on startup with turbo fan for 10-15 sec. 

It's strange than Epson cannot answer this.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Any chance of some pictures of this please ?.


My new iphone I can't upload pics, it lets me upload butv won't close window and therefore doesn't attach pic

Edit: looks like pic attached? If it did i will post more.


----------



## Steven414

Now that I have my 5040 on the way, I've been shopping for some 3D specs. Looking for something that works well at a reasonable price. What can you folks recommend?


----------



## drhankz

Steven414 said:


> Now that I have my 5040 on the way, I've been shopping for some 3D specs. Looking for something that works well at a reasonable price. What can you folks recommend?


When I demo 3D - I use a SHORT movie which can be found
for under $13 dollars. Now I must admit - it is a documentary.

When Movie makers use 3D cameras - the final product can be
awesome. Today they all seem to take a shortcut and film
in 2D and let computers make it into 3D. All these 2D-3D I hate. 

Try:

*Legends of Flight*


----------



## gene4ht

Steven414 said:


> I”ve been waiting for the first DLP enhanced 4K PJ to come out, which has just been released by Optoma for $2000. That excited me... for a minute... until I found that the new Optoma is not offering 3D, which was a deal breaker for me. I want to have the option to enjoy 3D content in my home theater for the immersive factor, on a large screen.
> 
> So I've been reading some great reviews for the 5040 over the past year, and have been curiously tempted to purchase. I decided that I cannot wait any longer, and I just pulled the trigger on the 5040. *It will be delivered Tuesday*.





Snoogleheimer said:


> You'll be very pleased. I sure love mine.


 @Snoogleheimer is on the money...you will not be disappointed...Tuesday will be the beginning of a great relationship. BTW, my first PJ was a DLP...no problem with RBE and I enjoyed it immensely...the 5040, however, is in a different league. Also noted that there are more than a few 5040 owners in and around SE Michigan!



Steven414 said:


> Now that I have my 5040 on the way, I've been shopping for some 3D specs. Looking for something that works well at a reasonable price. What can you folks recommend?


There are quite a few threads addressing 3D glasses under 3D Tech Talk...a good start would be the one below...I personally have the ValueVues and would highly recommend them.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html


----------



## gene4ht

bluer101 said:


> On power off the lens cover closes and shuts down immediately. Then normal power up is quick. Lens cover opens then about 2-3 seconds Epson appears all eco fan noise. Then every now and then get the high fan noise on startup with turbo fan for 10-15 sec.
> 
> *It's strange than Epson cannot answer this.*


Agreed...unfortunately this is not uncommon for most 1st level support personnel (not just Epson) who typically are in place to answer only very basic questions that are documented and scripted for them. It was very apparent during my session that the rep was only familiar with the generic operation of Epson's overall projector product line and unfamiliar with the specific functions of the 5040. Leading support organizations have a process in place to immediately escalate issues and a means to provide timely results/response to the customer. For some support organizations, this is an issue in search of a solution. 

BTW: A bit OT here but been meaning to say this for a while now...Great job on your Media Console build!


----------



## bluer101

gene4ht said:


> Agreed...unfortunately this is not uncommon for most 1st level support personnel (not just Epson) who typically are in place to answer only very basic questions that are documented and scripted for them. It was very apparent during my session that the rep was only familiar with the generic operation of Epson's overall projector product line and unfamiliar with the specific functions of the 5040. Leading support organizations have a process in place to immediately escalate issues and a means to provide timely results/response to the customer. For some support organizations, this is an issue in search of a solution.
> 
> BTW: A bit OT here but been meaning to say this for a while now...Great job on your Media Console build!


Thank you. 

We actually had a change in events and are closing on a house in 9 days. We are going to keep the console and electric screen for our living room along with my Benq W1070. Then going to build a dedicated theater room in the extra 3rd bedroom. It's small but it will be mine. The room is 9 wide by 12 long with 8ft ceilings. Plus one end has a long closet that will be used for AT screen and speakers. This closet makes the room 14 long. This will be where the Epson 5040ub. So it will be in a dedicated room. So soon will be my build thread after all the house upgrades I have to do first after closing. Going to be a busy husband soon.


----------



## talon95

bluer101 said:


> On power off the lens cover closes and shuts down immediately. Then normal power up is quick. Lens cover opens then about 2-3 seconds Epson appears all eco fan noise. Then every now and then get the high fan noise on startup with turbo fan for 10-15 sec.
> 
> It's strange than Epson cannot answer this.


My 5030 operates very similarly to this. Nothing new for Epson I would guess.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

panman40 said:


> Big mistake on optomas part if you ask me, DLP 3D is about as good as it gets so why on earth drop your trump card..


my sentiments exactly 

I ve checked out projectorcentral review of preproduction unit and UHD65 is rather off my list.

From the initial opinions/review it looks 5040ub wins in contrast, HDR, colors, black levels, brightness.

The uhd65 selling factor would be better 4k details and motion processing but these are not the most important picture factors...
The price I would say is also not that competitive when comparing to 5040ub

Biggest mistake ever was to give up on 3d, which on DLP was always great!
By the way I sold my DLP so now I am ready to go and purchase some serious HT PJ 
Most likely it will be TW9300/5040ub. I saw demo version (in dedicated room) of TW9300 vs JVC RS500 checked out few HDR movies, 3d and I preferred TW9300/5040ub.

I need to check out new JVC models (X5500/RS420) but I think I won't change my mind. 
Simply due to the fact this TW9300 is great all-rounder and very nicely priced model.

by the way has anyone heard any news from Epson about planned upgrades / new projector launches ?
June is the time they may announce something like upgraded HDMi bandwith etc.
Thanks !


----------



## talon95

Well the 3D fans are the victims of the same thing I have been off and on over the years. The electronics industry (any commercial industry) follows what the masses want. The average buyer has a cheap flat panel TV now and doesn't care about 3D. Worse yet, the younger generations are watching stuff on tablets and phones. The projector makers are just following the TV trends. 

Maybe a mistake since projector owners tend to have different wants/needs, but nevertheless that's what is happening.


----------



## gene4ht

talon95 said:


> My 5030 operates very similarly to this. Nothing new for Epson I would guess.


Thanks for this...comfort in knowing this is NORMAL for current Epsons.


----------



## gene4ht

panman40 said:


> Big mistake on optomas part if you ask me, DLP 3D is about as good as it gets so why on earth drop your trump card..





MartyMcFlyy said:


> my sentiments exactly ...Biggest mistake ever was to give up on 3d, which on DLP was always great!





talon95 said:


> Well the 3D fans are the victims of the same thing I have been off and on over the years. The electronics industry (any commercial industry) follows what the masses want. The average buyer has a cheap flat panel TV now and doesn't care about 3D. Worse yet, the younger generations are watching stuff on tablets and phones. The projector makers are just following the TV trends.
> 
> Maybe a mistake since projector owners tend to have different wants/needs, but nevertheless that's what is happening.


I personally had no interest in 3D until I tried it on my 5040. The added immersive qualities that 3D delivers is totally lost on those with screens under 100 inches...especially so on portable electronics. Unfortunately, as @talon95 suggests, we PJ owners are in a niche market.


----------



## panman40

gene4ht said:


> I personally had no interest in 3D until I tried it on my 5040. The added immersive qualities that 3D delivers is totally lost on those with screens under 100 inches...especially so on portable electronics. Unfortunately, as @talon95 suggests, we PJ owners are in a niche market.


Have to say I disagree partly with that, I've been into 3D at home since 2008 using smaller 55-59" flat panel tv's and have really enjoyed it. Only recent years have I been into projection and agree it's great but I was happy with 3D tv aswell.


----------



## GregCh

talon95 said:


> Well the 3D fans are the victims of the same thing I have been off and on over the years. The electronics industry (any commercial industry) follows what the masses want. The average buyer has a cheap flat panel TV now and doesn't care about 3D. Worse yet, the younger generations are watching stuff on tablets and phones. The projector makers are just following the TV trends.
> 
> Maybe a mistake since projector owners tend to have different wants/needs, but nevertheless that's what is happening.


That may be part of it but the other part is that 3D standards haven't been defined for 4K yet. So newer projectors focusing on HDR and 4K are dropping 3D because it isn't defined for the 4K standard yet. 

Also to be fair, even among projector owners, some want 3D some don't. So 3D is a niche within a niche. 

If anything, I would expect the younger generation to eventually bring back another cycle of 3D to the TV, phone, etc. Especially since the new trend is toward VR.


----------



## gene4ht

panman40 said:


> Have to say I disagree partly with that, I've been into 3D at home since 2008 using smaller 55-59" flat panel tv's and have really enjoyed it. Only recent years have I been into projection and agree it's great but I was happy with 3D tv aswell.


I can appreciate your perspective. I'm sure there are others who enjoy 3D with even smaller sized screens. Perhaps I should adjust my comment to...Interest in 3D is likely directly proportional to screen/image size...the greater the screen size, the greater the interest is probably more appropriate.


----------



## gene4ht

GregCh said:


> That may be part of it but the other part is that 3D standards haven't been defined for 4K yet. So newer projectors focusing on HDR and 4K are dropping 3D because it isn't defined for the 4K standard yet.
> 
> Also to be fair, even among projector owners, some want 3D some don't. So 3D is a niche within a niche.
> 
> If anything, I would expect the younger generation to eventually bring back another cycle of 3D to the TV, phone, etc. Especially since the new trend is toward VR.


Those are valid points as well...


----------



## panman40

gene4ht said:


> I can appreciate your perspective. I'm sure there are others who enjoy 3D with even smaller sized screens. Perhaps I should adjust my comment to...Interest in 3D is likely directly proportional to screen/image size...the greater the screen size, the greater the interest is probably more appropriate.


That makes sense, I do agree that there's more of us into 3D that have projectors and bigger screens, years back I tried the anaglyph thing on and off but could never see the 3D. We went to the cinema in 2008 to see Avatar in 3D, when I came out I felt elated and excited I just had to have 3D at home, our friends who we went with enjoyed the film but could take or leave the 3D.

I have invested quite a sum in 3D blu Rays and feel cheated that manufacturers are dropping the option on displays that probably costs nothing as the tech is already there.. Oh well I just hope 3D has some future for the enthusiasts


----------



## SALadder22FF

So far haven't had any issue with judder on fast paced scenes but watching Transformers age of extinction 3D last night this happened on alot of the big action scenes. I've watched plenty other 3d and 4k huge action movies and all were crystal clear. Is this because of the way the movie was originally filmed, the 3d version, problem with a disc, my player (Phillips 4k), or the projector? Or am I just getting more pickier as I use the projector more.. my buddy said he couldn't notice and it looked amazing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

panman40 said:


> That makes sense, I do agree that there's more of us into 3D that have projectors and bigger screens, years back I tried the anaglyph thing on and off but could never see the 3D. We went to the cinema in 2008 to see Avatar in 3D, when I came out I felt elated and excited I just had to have 3D at home, our friends who we went with enjoyed the film but could take or leave the 3D.
> 
> I have invested quite a sum in 3D blu Rays and feel cheated that manufacturers are dropping the option on displays that probably costs nothing as the tech is already there.. Oh well I just hope 3D has some future for the enthusiasts


As I understand it, there are about 400 BD 3D titles and I own about 40...so I too have invested. Avatar certainly did its part in keeping 3D alive!

We're getting a bit OT but I found this recent 3D article that may be of some interest.

https://www.lifewire.com/why-3d-tv-died-4126776


----------



## panman40

SALadder22FF said:


> So far haven't had any issue with judder on fast paced scenes but watching Transformers age of extinction 3D last night this happened on alot of the big action scenes. I've watched plenty other 3d and 4k huge action movies and all were crystal clear. Is this because of the way the movie was originally filmed, the 3d version, problem with a disc, my player (Phillips 4k), or the projector? Or am I just getting more pickier as I use the projector more.. my buddy said he couldn't notice and it looked amazing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


More than likely the Epson, 3D motion is not the best on faced paced action, I've tried using Fi on low but it artifacts badly.


----------



## panman40

gene4ht said:


> As I understand it, there are about 400 BD 3D titles and I own about 40...so I too have invested. Avatar certainly did its part in keeping 3D alive!
> 
> We're getting a bit OT but I found this recent 3D article that may be of some interest.
> 
> https://www.lifewire.com/why-3d-tv-died-4126776


Thanks for the link, I will take a look, I don't worry about being off topic on any forum tbh, banter is good


----------



## Jameshtx

Snoogleheimer said:


> You'll be very pleased. I sure love mine.




I'm with Snoogleheimer. Very happy with mines too and you will too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dead2sin

Debating on this vs a proper 4K projector. Upgrading from a 5030UB. I've been stockpiling 4K Blu Rays whenever they go on sale, itching to see what the difference is like


----------



## Snoogleheimer

dead2sin said:


> Debating on this vs a proper 4K projector. Upgrading from a 5030UB. I've been stockpiling 4K Blu Rays whenever they go on sale, itching to see what the difference is like


In your case, I think I would hold out another year. 

I also only buy 4K movies. They are much more expensive, but, I would rather future proof then save money on old technology.


----------



## rustolemite

Steven414 said:


> I”ve been waiting for the first DLP enhanced 4K PJ to come out, which has just been released by Optoma for $2000. That excited me... for a minute... until I found that the new Optoma is not offering 3D, which was a deal breaker for me. I want to have the option to enjoy 3D content in my home theater for the immersive factor, on a large screen.
> 
> So I've been reading some great reviews for the 5040 over the past year, and have been curiously tempted to purchase. I decided that I cannot wait any longer, and I just pulled the trigger on the 5040. It will be delivered Tuesday.


I had my mind made up about getting the Epson then saw this about the Optoma which would be "native" 4K but from what I have read the quality of 1080p signal is not very good. It seems to get the price point so low for "native" 4K that had to make sacrifices for everything else. I have since decided to stay with my Epson choice and maybe in a year or when 4K specs finally are standard like HDR and Dolby Vision I will see about upgrading to a "native" 4K projector.
Thanks.


----------



## drhankz

rustolemite said:


> I had my mind made up about getting the Epson then saw this about the Optoma which would be "native" 4K but from what I have read the quality of 1080p signal is not very good. It seems to get the price point so low for "native" 4K that had to make sacrifices for everything else. I have since decided to stay with my Epson choice and maybe in a year or when 4K specs finally are standard like HDR and Dolby Vision I will see about upgrading to a "native" 4K projector.
> Thanks.


Not Native 4K

You need to read the specifications better.


----------



## rustolemite

drhankz said:


> Not Native 4K
> 
> You need to read the specifications better.


You mean on the Optoma? I was curious how this could be the same as the Sony VPLVW365ES and be so much cheaper.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Snoogleheimer said:


> In your case, I think I would hold out another year.
> 
> I also only buy 4K movies. They are much more expensive, but, I would rather future proof then save money on old technology.




I'm a 5030 owner as well and trying to decide whether to pull the trigger on a 5040 or wait it out another year. I'm for sure going to wait through Cedia this year to see what comes out. None of the newer 4K DLP's have peaked my interest since they have dropped 3D which I enjoy.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Hawkmarket said:


> I'm a 5030 owner as well and trying to decide whether to pull the trigger on a 5040 or wait it out another year. I'm for sure going to wait through Cedia this year to see what comes out. None of the newer 4K DLP's have peaked my interest since they have dropped 3D which I enjoy.


Yeah, it's a tough call, but, if you can, I'd still wait, since you have a 5030ub, which is a very nice PJ. I don't care for 3d, but still, I don't think I'll be jumping on the Optoma either. I bet next year is when we start to see more 4k offerings which have good specs and won't break the bank.


----------



## sddp

XBOX One X (aka Scorpio) is coming out November $499.00


Here's some specs. The vid is not too bad given that it maxes out at 720P, I can only imagine what it gaming, Blu Rays, 3D, and 4K would look on this since they say it does a better job on Blu Ray than just Standard blu ray players. Not sure how it will stand up to a Oppo 203 though.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGKY_DLm3PI#t=0.0755


----------



## drhankz

rustolemite said:


> You mean on the Optoma? I was curious how this could be the same as the Sony VPLVW365ES and be so much cheaper.


Sony is still the only 4K native projector. 

Even the Epson 5040/6040 are 2K using eShaift to 4K. 

JVC is 2K with eShift to 4K

The Optoma is somewhere in between using eShift.


----------



## presenter

*Is it Faux-K or 4K, that is the question*



rustolemite said:


> You mean on the Optoma? I was curious how this could be the same as the Sony VPLVW365ES and be so much cheaper.


The two new Optomas, the BenQ HT8050 and HT9050 (way more expensive) and the Vivitek HK2288 are examples of the new TI DLP chip. That chip has true resolution of 2716x1528 pixels. That works out to 4.15 megapixels. True 4K is 8.3 megapixels. 
People's confusion is mostly coming from the marketing folks at these companies, and the 4K UHD moniker. All these new DLP projectors claiming 4K UHD use pixel shifting to double up to 8.3 megapixels, which is the requirement for 4K UHD.
4K UHD requires 8.3 megapixels, but they don't care how you get them, I guess. Me, I want tiny pixels, not several huge ones overlapping each other, "blurring" the detail!

*Remember! Each of these DLP's pixels are twice the area of a true 4k.* There's no way you could, for example have a bunch of lines, each 1/3840 of the width of the screen, with them being sequentially r,g,b,r,g,b, or r,g,b,c,y,m it would get all overlapped and give you mushy gray with different colored edges. 

I just posted this re Faux-K vs 4K 
on our site, 
and my tech guru reviewer Ron, (who posts here a lot) has put up his newest blog, this one on HDR. -art


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

presenter said:


> The two new Optomas, the BenQ HT8050 and HT9050 (way more expensive) and the Vivitek HK2288 are examples of the new TI DLP chip. That chip has true resolution of 2716x1528 pixels. That works out to 4.15 megapixels. True 4K is 8.3 megapixels.
> People's confusion is mostly coming from the marketing folks at these companies, and the 4K UHD moniker. All these new DLP projectors claiming 4K UHD use pixel shifting to double up to 8.3 megapixels, which is the requirement for 4K UHD.
> 4K UHD requires 8.3 megapixels, but they don't care how you get them, I guess. Me, I want tiny pixels, not several huge ones overlapping each other, "blurring" the detail!
> 
> *Remember! Each of these DLP's pixels are twice the area of a true 4k.* There's no way you could, for example have a bunch of lines, each 1/3840 of the width of the screen, with them being sequentially r,g,b,r,g,b, or r,g,b,c,y,m it would get all overlapped and give you mushy gray with different colored edges.
> 
> I just posted this re Faux-K vs 4K
> on our site,
> and my tech guru reviewer Ron, (who posts here a lot) has put up his newest blog, this one on HDR. -art


thanks Art, quite interesting.

Did you by the way have a chance to compare how the pixel shifting tech of Epson and JVC works ?
Which one is better in your opinion in terms of perception of the image ?


----------



## rjguk

presenter said:


> I just posted this re Faux-K vs 4K
> on our site,


Interesting stuff. A minor point regarding the article - should be discrete rather than discreet. (Unless the pixels are particularly unobtrusive of course)


----------



## njbrodeur87

Question for everyone. I have a PS4 Pro currently connected to this projector. Looks great. However i also have the samsung 4k 55inch tv, 2016 model. FOr those who have tried before i go through trouble of changing things around, does connecting it to a true 4k tv make a big difference for 4k games or should i leave it on the projector?

Thinking the same of how i will setup the xbox one X as well. currently have an S


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

njbrodeur87 said:


> Question for everyone. I have a PS4 Pro currently connected to this projector. Looks great. However i also have the samsung 4k 55inch tv, 2016 model. FOr those who have tried before i go through trouble of changing things around, does connecting it to a true 4k tv make a big difference for 4k games or should i leave it on the projector?
> 
> Thinking the same of how i will setup the xbox one X as well. currently have an S


You probably need to state the Samsung model number and whether your projected image is 55" or larger.
In the end, this is a personal decision and you'll have to make the comparison yourself; there are too many variables involved, including personal taste.


----------



## njbrodeur87

ComradeBrehznev said:


> You probably need to state the Samsung model number and whether your projected image is 55" or larger.
> In the end, this is a personal decision and you'll have to make the comparison yourself; there are too many variables involved, including personal taste.


I guess my point for others to make is, Does True 4k on a high end samsung 4k 8500 Series Tv look much better then this projector ( since this projector isnt true 4k ) when using ps4 pro, and 4k movie watching. Projector Screen is 120 inch


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

dead2sin said:


> Debating on this vs a proper 4K projector. Upgrading from a 5030UB. I've been stockpiling 4K Blu Rays whenever they go on sale, itching to see what the difference is like


Maybe a Magnolia will set up a demo for you.

As far as pixel density goes, at 120" the doubling of pixels is very nice vs my 5020UB. My seats are 11- 12' from the screen. You might check your screen size vs seating distance and consult one the charts that shows visible resolution vs screen size and viewing distance. Or step closer to the screen until you can see the defined pixel boundaries, and if it's not too far from your seated distance, the 5040's doubling of pixels will give you a more filmic image.
The other feature that caused me to upgrade is the motorized lens -> previous versions' manual adjustments really suck. In addition, on widescreen movies, since I have a 16:9 screen, I can easily have the image moved to the bottom of the screen next to the black border, and only have the upper boundary of the image unmasked. I may install a curtain across the top of the screen for masking, which makes an easy solution.
Cheers


----------



## robc1976

I have been watching uhd only, today I put in a 1080p disc and it says 4K sdr 7.09? Is that the 4K upscaling? Taking 1080p upscaling the signal to 4K resolution?


----------



## dead2sin

ComradeBrehznev said:


> Maybe a Magnolia will set up a demo for you.
> 
> As far as pixel density goes, at 120" the doubling of pixels is very nice vs my 5020UB. My seats are 11- 12' from the screen. You might check your screen size vs seating distance and consult one the charts that shows visible resolution vs screen size and viewing distance. Or step closer to the screen until you can see the defined pixel boundaries, and if it's not too far from your seated distance, the 5040's doubling of pixels will give you a more filmic image.
> The other feature that caused me to upgrade is the motorized lens -> previous versions' manual adjustments really suck. In addition, on widescreen movies, since I have a 16:9 screen, I can easily have the image moved to the bottom of the screen next to the black border, and only have the upper boundary of the image unmasked. I may install a curtain across the top of the screen for masking, which makes an easy solution.
> Cheers


This is exactly why I was thinking of making the jump. I sit as close to the screen as I can get without being able to see the pixels/screendoor. I'd *like* to sit closer, but on bright/light colors, it drives me bonkers. If the 5040UB can help reduce that with 1080p content even, it would be a win for me.


----------



## bommai

Has anyone used the 5040UB with the SeymourAV center stage AT screen. I have the screen material from 7 years ago and am contemplating installing it back so that I can put my speakers behind the screen. Currently I am using a 150" silver ticket non-AT screen mounted on the wall. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Curious if anyone else here thinks digital cinema is a bit dark in 4K SDR?. I am not referring to Dave Harper's setting, His HDR to SDR is simply awesome . I had my display calibrated in digital cinnema 4K sdr that I use for gaming and regular bluray viewing and it seems dark, black levels are great, detail is great but just seems a bit dark to me. 

Do you guys use "bright cinema" for gaming and non-UHD material?

My room is completely dark, all black walls. I have a cin white 1.1 gain screen, would I gain anything from a 1.3 gain screen?


----------



## ac388

*Settings for 4K material without HDR on Epson 5040*

Hi Dave,

Wonder if have time to finally get a 4k setting for SDR material. Thanks in advance.




Dave Harper said:


> The settings listed here and what people refer to as "HarperVision" are for HDR only.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Curious if anyone else here thinks digital cinema is a bit dark in 4K SDR?. I am not referring to Dave Harper's setting, His HDR to SDR is simply awesome . I had my display calibrated in digital cinnema 4K sdr that I use for gaming and regular bluray viewing and it seems dark, black levels are great, detail is great but just seems a bit dark to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys use "bright cinema" for gaming and non-UHD material?
> 
> 
> 
> My room is completely dark, all black walls. I have a cin white 1.1 gain screen, would I gain anything from a 1.3 gain screen?



It's due to the P3 Filter rolling into place when you go into Digital Cinema Mode. This cuts about 25% of the light output. You shouldn't use DC mode for SDR rec709 and ref Blurays. That filter expands the gamut beyond bt709 so colors may look too saturated. I would use Bright Cinema as you say. That doesn't engage the filter. 

This is one of the main reasons I even created HarperVision, because folks complained DC mode was too dark for HDR but they also wanted to maintain the WCG Filter, so they didn't want to use BC. 




ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Wonder if have time to finally get a 4k setting for SDR material. Thanks in advance.



Yes!!! How's this:









Gamma 0 (I actually forgot and had my HV curve still in initially and it didn't look half bad actually, giving it a depth to it!, although not scientifically correct)
Dynamic Range SDR
Color Space BT709
HDMI Video Range Normal
Image Enhancements & Sharpness at defaults (or to taste. You can decrease Sharpness a couple clicks for less ringing in patterns, but it isn't intrusive on content that I saw.)

I'm so sorry, but I thought I took a picture of the CMS for SDR Natural but I must not have! I only see one for HV HDR. Then I packed it up and shipped it to its new owner. Maybe they can chime in with what it is once they set it up?


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> It's due to the P3 Filter rolling into place when you go into Digital Cinema Mode. His cuts about 25% of the light output. You shouldn't use DC mode for SDR rec709 and ref Blurays. That filter expands the gamut beyond bt709 so colors may look too saturated. I would use Bright Cinema as you say. That doesn't engage the filter.
> 
> This is one of the main reasons I even created HarperVision, because folks complained DC mode was too dark for HDR but they also wanted to maintain the WCG Filter, so they didn't want to use BC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes!!! How's this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma 0 (I actually forgot and had my HV curve still in initially and it didn't look half bad actually, giving it a depth to it!, although not scientifically correct)
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Color Space BT709
> HDMI Video Range Normal
> Image Enhancements & Sharpness at defaults (or to taste. You can decrease Sharpness a couple clicks for less ringing in patterns, but it isn't intrusive on content that I saw.)
> 
> I'm so sorry, but I thought I took a picture of the CMS for SDR Natural but I must not have! I only see one for HV HDR. Then I packed it up and shipped it to its new owner. Maybe they can chime in with what it is once they set it up?


 he is recalibrating so I willb have him recalibrate it in bright cinema. If i switch color modes I am guessing it will ruin the calibration.

2 questions Dave 

1. Will those "natural" settings give me more light than the digital cinema? 

2. I am getting a bigger screen with same 1.1 gain, will I have to recalibrate after that?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> he is recalibrating so I willb have him recalibrate it in bright cinema. If i switch color modes I am guessing it will ruin the calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> 2 questions Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Will those "natural" settings give me more light than the digital cinema?
> 
> 
> 
> 2. I am getting a bigger screen with same 1.1 gain, will I have to recalibrate after that?



1. Yes

2. Well I personally would wait until you get the bigger screen to have him recalibrate, but depending on how much bigger it shouldn't really make that much of a difference. No more than your lamp aging and losing lumens and having color shift with the current size. I would however double check and readjust the basics (brightness, contrast, etc.) with a test disc or files.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Hi Guys,
I thought it may be interesting to share my thoughts after seeing live demo of 5040ub (TW9300) and JVC RS420 (X5500) both uncalibrated. JVC had been calibrated but I wanted to check out how they perform out of the box in dedicated HT demo room, so we used default settings on the Stewart grey screen (duno the screen size and gain but it was definitely in 100 - 150" range, projection thrown from ~4 meters 

I was shown 3 movies on both PJs:

- Avatar 3d (settings Epson: 3d dynamic, FI: low / off, 3d brightness low, lamp mode high; JVC default settings) 
- Martian 4K in HDR (Epson: Neutral, BT 2020, HDR1, JVC: default HDR mode settings)
- Oblivion Full HD (default Cinema on both PJs with eshift/4k enhancement on)

So here are my observations:

- picture on both is amazing
- JVC is darker, Epson is sharper, 
- HDR on both looked stunning. You really didn't want to stop watching, the surface of Mars: jaw dropping effect guaranteed 
- black levels (scenes in space in Martian movie looked similar on both, although JVC has better black levels this was not that noticable in the movie)
- contrast - the image popped out from the screen on both PJs
- 3d I think was better on Epson due brighter image and lack of flicker which I could see on JVC (maybe I am simply too sensitive to flicker but coming from 3d DLP 144hz I had high expectations...) 
I was curious ab this crosstalk/ghosting stories reality on Epson and on default settings they were noticable, but switching 3d brightness to low they disappeared completely. The glasses we used Samsung SSG-5100GB replacement.
- I don't know why Epson didn't recognized HDR data automatically (had to be switched manually to HDR mode despite auto settings (could be some communication problems with Oppo player) JVC didn't have this problem: it entered HDR mode automatically.

Bottom line:

IMHO there is really no big difference comapring image from the two PJs!
However, I am getting my room ready for TW9300 / 5040ub as I prefer more brightness and 3d with no flicker at lower price.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> 1. Yes
> 
> 2. Well I personally would wait until you get the bigger screen to have him recalibrate, but depending on how much bigger it shouldn't really make that much of a difference. No more than your lamp aging and losing lumens and having color shift with the current size. I would however double check and readjust the basics (brightness, contrast, etc.) with a test disc or files.


Can I use his cms calibration of digital cinema with your "natural" settings or will the filter alter those settings? if not should I just put them at "50" default?


----------



## diddy5584

I just wanted to thank all the guys that took some time last week to look at my post and help me out. Projector is now level and screen was square. Picture fits perfectly. I have been a long time lurker and have always known the help was there, but man you guys are awesome. 

A follow up question. I am at 135" corner to corner, I am PS4 to Onkyo 747 to PJ and if I do anything it makes me so sick. I was wondering if it is a lag issue. I see that the PJ is up-converting to 3840 and was wondering if the lag is the issue as I have gamed for my entire life and never had an issue. Really confused and thought it was worth an ask in the thread to see if anyone else has the issue.

Thanks again everyone!

Edit: When I say do anything it is gaming/menu related. I can watch movies fine, but navigating menus makes me sick...


----------



## impetigo

Steven414 said:


> Now that I have my 5040 on the way, I've been shopping for some 3D specs. Looking for something that works well at a reasonable price. What can you folks recommend?


I tried two other pairs of glasses before gritting my teeth and getting the pricey Epson glasses for $95/each (with tax from amazon). The others I tried were a pair from ebay (branded Okebo or something similar) which was so uncomfortable due to a very narrow nose "feet" that I couldn't even bother to try it out with a movie. 

The other was a pair of Samsung glasses that were quite innovative in design (look like passive/regular glasses as the bulk of the electronics and battery are at the end of the "arms" so they are much more comfortable than typical front heavy active 3d glasses) but had no power button and so the battery life was unreliable and sometimes the auto off feature would turn them off while using them! 

Anyway, I saw Ratatouille and Ghostbusters in 3D recently with the new Epsons and they are just great. Comfortable overall, great/reliable battery life that charges quickly also, and reasonable size lens size (which is usually smaller in active glasses). I'm happy with them and would recommend a pair. If you need 4, that would be close to $400 so maybe try a third party brand!


----------



## gene4ht

impetigo said:


> I tried two other pairs of glasses before gritting my teeth and getting the pricey Epson glasses for $95/each (with tax from amazon).


Congrats...glad you found glasses to your liking. Just curious, were you able to visit the link I provided earlier?

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-295.html#post53556033


----------



## impetigo

gene4ht said:


> Congrats...glad you found glasses to your liking. Just curious, were you able to visit the link I provided earlier?
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-295.html#post53556033


Thanks, I hadn't noticed the link before. The two glasses I tried aren't on that list... maybe I'll add it to the thread. 

I just wish there were a viable (not double projectors) option for passive 3D with projectors as it makes a world of difference in viewing experience, both visually and glass wearing comfort.


----------



## Steven414

impetigo said:


> I just wish there were a viable (not double projectors) option for passive 3D with projectors as it makes a world of difference in viewing experience, both visually and glass wearing comfort.


Agree. Passive is so much nicer. And the lenses aren't as dark as active, which makes for a brighter image.


----------



## jdbarnes63

*Newbie question regarding aspect ratio*

I am new to the projection scene, I received my Epson 5040 yesterday and have setup per instructions. My room is a dedicated room with dark walls, light controlled settings. Dimensions for the room are 16' W 19"D and 8' H. Current seating is 12' screen wall to MLP, I have not purchased a screen yet as I am trying to determine the largest 2:35:1 size that I can go. I will use this space for movie watching only. I would like to go with an AT screen so MLP will change to 10', My questions are #1 , what is the largest screen I can go in this setup #2 , I have the projector set at 17' from the wall now, when I play TV shows 16:9 I get a screen size apx 131" wide by 75" tall, when I watch a movie in 2:35, I still am set to 131" wide and 54" tall, is this normal or should it go wider?


----------



## robc1976

jdbarnes63 said:


> I am new to the projection scene, I received my Epson 5040 yesterday and have setup per instructions. My room is a dedicated room with dark walls, light controlled settings. Dimensions for the room are 16' W 19"D and 8' H. Current seating is 12' screen wall to MLP, I have not purchased a screen yet as I am trying to determine the largest 2:35:1 size that I can go. I will use this space for movie watching only. I would like to go with an AT screen so MLP will change to 10', My questions are #1 , what is the largest screen I can go in this setup #2 , I have the projector set at 17' from the wall now, when I play TV shows 16:9 I get a screen size apx 131" wide by 75" tall, when I watch a movie in 2:35, I still am set to 131" wide and 54" tall, is this normal or should it go wider?


 there are guys here at 13ft with 150"screen. I am at 17' and have 138" 2.35 and going to a 158" this week. So if your projector is,at *10-12 ft a 138" 2.35 would fit the bill.


----------



## jdbarnes63

robc1976 said:


> there are guys here at 13ft with 150"screen. I am at 17' and have 138" 2.35 and going to a 158" this week. So if your projector is,at *10-12 ft a 138" 2.35 would fit the bill.


So RobC, what am I doing wrong that I cant get the screen wider than 131"? when I adjust the lens that is as large as it will go. I would like to be at 150" for the immersive feel.


----------



## robc1976

jdbarnes63 said:


> So RobC, what am I doing wrong that I cant get the screen wider than 131"? when I adjust the lens that is as large as it will go. I would like to be at 150" for the immersive feel.


 try moving projector forward a foot or 2. Your using the zoom function correct?


----------



## impetigo

jdbarnes63 said:


> So RobC, what am I doing wrong that I cant get the screen wider than 131"? when I adjust the lens that is as large as it will go. I would like to be at 150" for the immersive feel.


Check out the projector central throw distance calculator to see how wide you can go. If you have flexibility with how far back you can put your projector, you can probably go as large as literally will fit either width or height.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

For a 2.4:1 screen at 150" diagonal, it shows you need 15'7" throw distance (from screen to lens) at max zoom. Sounds like you can do that easily if you can mount it far back enough.

One important concept to keep in mind is that the 5040ub like all (I think) consumer projectors puts out a native 16x9 image, so if you want to go as wide as possible, you will have the top and bottom letterbox (black) bars spilling off the screen, which is fine since there's no image there, but if you watch 16x9 or 1.85:1 you may need to zoom out a bit to fit the image to the screen height.


----------



## Boggle

bommai said:


> Has anyone used the 5040UB with the SeymourAV center stage AT screen. I have the screen material from 7 years ago and am contemplating installing it back so that I can put my speakers behind the screen. Currently I am using a 150" silver ticket non-AT screen mounted on the wall.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have the UF material, upgraded from a 5020ub to the 5040. The 5020 had moire rainbows all over the place, the 5040 does not. Overall I think the 5040 looks quite good on the UF.


----------



## bommai

robc1976 said:


> Curious if anyone else here thinks digital cinema is a bit dark in 4K SDR?. I am not referring to Dave Harper's setting, His HDR to SDR is simply awesome . I had my display calibrated in digital cinnema 4K sdr that I use for gaming and regular bluray viewing and it seems dark, black levels are great, detail is great but just seems a bit dark to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys use "bright cinema" for gaming and non-UHD material?
> 
> 
> 
> My room is completely dark, all black walls. I have a cin white 1.1 gain screen, would I gain anything from a 1.3 gain screen?



I use natural for all sdr material. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

Boggle said:


> I have the UF material, upgraded from a 5020ub to the 5040. The 5020 had moire rainbows all over the place, the 5040 does not. Overall I think the 5040 looks quite good on the UF.


Sorry I don't know what UF is.


----------



## Boggle

http://www.seymourav.com/screensDIY.asp


----------



## ac388

Hi Dave,

Thanks for your great work on this 4K/SDR settings n will try it out this weekend. Also, I sincerely hope your buyer will post the rest of the settings to see your complete masterpiece ! :wink:





Dave Harper said:


> It's due to the P3 Filter rolling into place when you go into Digital Cinema Mode. This cuts about 25% of the light output. You shouldn't use DC mode for SDR rec709 and ref Blurays. That filter expands the gamut beyond bt709 so colors may look too saturated. I would use Bright Cinema as you say. That doesn't engage the filter.
> 
> This is one of the main reasons I even created HarperVision, because folks complained DC mode was too dark for HDR but they also wanted to maintain the WCG Filter, so they didn't want to use BC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes!!! How's this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma 0 (I actually forgot and had my HV curve still in initially and it didn't look half bad actually, giving it a depth to it!, although not scientifically correct)
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Color Space BT709
> HDMI Video Range Normal
> Image Enhancements & Sharpness at defaults (or to taste. You can decrease Sharpness a couple clicks for less ringing in patterns, but it isn't intrusive on content that I saw.)
> 
> I'm so sorry, but I thought I took a picture of the CMS for SDR Natural but I must not have! I only see one for HV HDR. Then I packed it up and shipped it to its new owner. Maybe they can chime in with what it is once they set it up?


----------



## robc1976

ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Thanks for your great work on this 4K/SDR settings n will try it out this weekend. Also, I sincerely hope your buyer will post the rest of the settings to see your complete masterpiece ! :wink:


I can't wait either


----------



## mrbeezly

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this.. But I have an Nvidia Shield TV and since the most recent upgrade... I can now get Amazon, Netflix and YouTube all in 4K24 12bit color 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## jdbarnes63

impetigo said:


> Check out the projector central throw distance calculator to see how wide you can go. If you have flexibility with how far back you can put your projector, you can probably go as large as literally will fit either width or height.
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> For a 2.4:1 screen at 150" diagonal, it shows you need 15'7" throw distance (from screen to lens) at max zoom. Sounds like you can do that easily if you can mount it far back enough.
> 
> One important concept to keep in mind is that the 5040ub like all (I think) consumer projectors puts out a native 16x9 image, so if you want to go as wide as possible, you will have the top and bottom letterbox (black) bars spilling off the screen, which is fine since there's no image there, but if you watch 16x9 or 1.85:1 you may need to zoom out a bit to fit the image to the screen height.


Thanks, that makes sense. I didn't take into account or didn't understand that since the 5040 shows in native 16x9 the width of the screen remains the same. I am exactly 16'5" from lens to screen, that allows me to be 7" off the back wall plus 10" from ceiling to top of projector. With the 5040 setup at these distances I am watching a 160" 16x9 or 152" 2:35 equates to apx. 140" wide picture. We watched John Wick 2 in 2:35 at that size and it was great. We then switched on the Houston Astros game and watched it in 16x9, Wow, set sound system to 7 channel and it sounded and felt like we are at the game. Here is a picture with just using a white sheet, if this does not convince any fence sitters I don't know what will. I cant wait to get a real screen now.


----------



## rgraylin

*Balun Key Digital KD-x222*

OK guys, been reading this forum for a while and learned a lot but came across a situation in need of your help.

May basement is almost completed and installer has been working on theater. I have an Epson 5040UB, Marantz 6011, PS4, and Samsung UBD-M9500 (mix up as I asked for Sony). The installer ran premium HDMI cable (~30') but other subs ruined the cable. The installed decided to use a Balun, Key Digital KD-x222 over single CAT6, as opposed to trying to run another HDMI cable as the basement is 95% done. Below are the specs for the Balun. My concern is that losing the premium HDMI cable means I'm giving up HDR today as well as future capability.

The Balun was installed today, and I tested what I could (no 4K HDR movies) using Samsung YouTube app streaming 4K HDR samples. I was unable to get an HDR signal, maybe not possible via Samsung/YouTube. Also was unable to get HDR signal even though PS4 recognizes Epson and allows setting of YPb... and Deep Color.

So what do you think based on below specs? I'm having trouble deciphering what I'm losing using a balun. Should I insist on the new Premium HDMI cable?

Specs (abbreviated):

HDBaseT via Single CAT5e/6 UTP/STP Extension: With fully automatic adjustment of feedback, equalization, and amplification depending on cabling length
Signal Extension:
[*]Up to 150 ft. @ 4K 24/25/30(4:4:4)/60(4:2:0) using KD-CAT6STP1X cabling
[*]Up to 125 ft. @ 4K 24/25/30(4:4:4)/60(4:2:0) using third-party CAT5e/6UTP/STP cabling​
HDCP 2.2: Compliancy up to HDCP 2.2 and backward compliant
HDR (High Dynamic Range): More life-like images through a greater range of luminance levels
4K/Ultra HD Resolution: Support for 4096x2160 or 3840x2160 24/25/30Hz at 4:4:4/8 Bit or 60Hz at 4:2:0/8 Bit
Deep Color Support: Up to UHD/4K 30Hz 4:2:2/12 bits or 60Hz 4:2:0/8 bit
3D: Support for standard 3D stereoscopic signal formats
HDMI® and HDCP Licensing: Fully licensed and compatible with HDCP 2.2 and HDMI latest technology such as 4K/UHD 4:2:0/8bit at 60f/s


----------



## impetigo

jdbarnes63 said:


> Thanks, that makes sense. I didn't take into account or didn't understand that since the 5040 shows in native 16x9 the width of the screen remains the same. I am exactly 16'5" from lens to screen, that allows me to be 7" off the back wall plus 10" from ceiling to top of projector. With the 5040 setup at these distances I am watching a 160" 16x9 or 152" 2:35 equates to apx. 140" wide picture. We watched John Wick 2 in 2:35 at that size and it was great. We then switched on the Houston Astros game and watched it in 16x9, Wow, set sound system to 7 channel and it sounded and felt like we are at the game. Here is a picture with just using a white sheet, if this does not convince any fence sitters I don't know what will. I cant wait to get a real screen now.


So jealous! I don't have the space to go really big and have to be satisfied with a 110" diagonal 16x9 screen. It's okay though. One thing about screens though, is that I haven't found they make a noticeable difference compared to a painted wall, but if you have dark walls (I think you said that) and ideally ceiling too, then a screen will allow you to mask the dark gray letterbox bars to make the image more isolated and have more "pop" and look more like a real cinema (at least, before a lot of cinemas stopped masking!).


----------



## Mr.G

rgraylin said:


> OK guys, been reading this forum for a while and learned a lot but came across a situation in need of your help.
> 
> May basement is almost completed and installer has been working on theater. I have an Epson 5040UB, Marantz 6011, PS4, and Samsung UBD-M9500 (mix up as I asked for Sony). The installer ran premium HDMI cable (~30') but other subs ruined the cable. The installed decided to use a Balun, Key Digital KD-x222 over single CAT6, as opposed to trying to run another HDMI cable as the basement is 95% done. Below are the specs for the Balun. My concern is that losing the premium HDMI cable means I'm giving up HDR today as well as future capability.
> 
> The Balun was installed today, and I tested what I could (no 4K HDR movies) using Samsung YouTube app streaming 4K HDR samples. I was unable to get an HDR signal, maybe not possible via Samsung/YouTube. Also was unable to get HDR signal even though PS4 recognizes Epson and allows setting of YPb... and Deep Color.
> 
> So what do you think based on below specs? I'm having trouble deciphering what I'm losing using a balun. Should I insist on the new Premium HDMI cable?
> 
> Specs (abbreviated):
> 
> HDBaseT via Single CAT5e/6 UTP/STP Extension: With fully automatic adjustment of feedback, equalization, and amplification depending on cabling length
> Signal Extension:
> [*]Up to 150 ft. @ 4K 24/25/30(4:4:4)/60(4:2:0) using KD-CAT6STP1X cabling
> [*]Up to 125 ft. @ 4K 24/25/30(4:4:4)/60(4:2:0) using third-party CAT5e/6UTP/STP cabling​
> HDCP 2.2: Compliancy up to HDCP 2.2 and backward compliant
> HDR (High Dynamic Range): More life-like images through a greater range of luminance levels
> 4K/Ultra HD Resolution: Support for 4096x2160 or 3840x2160 24/25/30Hz at 4:4:4/8 Bit or 60Hz at 4:2:0/8 Bit
> Deep Color Support: Up to UHD/4K 30Hz 4:2:2/12 bits or 60Hz 4:2:0/8 bit
> 3D: Support for standard 3D stereoscopic signal formats
> HDMI® and HDCP Licensing: Fully licensed and compatible with HDCP 2.2 and HDMI latest technology such as 4K/UHD 4:2:0/8bit at 60f/s


Best to try here:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-hdmi-q-one-connector-world/


----------



## jsrdlr

Well, we're a little over a month into our 6040 and still loving it. It is our first projector. Kids have both had b-day parties where the PJ was a complete hit and we've had friends over who loved it too. Can't wait to watch a football game on it!

4K material look phenomenal with PE 2 being our go to source to show the PJ off. Other than some 3D ghosting the pj has been perfect!


----------



## jdbarnes63

impetigo said:


> So jealous! I don't have the space to go really big and have to be satisfied with a 110" diagonal 16x9 screen. It's okay though. One thing about screens though, is that I haven't found they make a noticeable difference compared to a painted wall, but if you have dark walls (I think you said that) and ideally ceiling too, then a screen will allow you to mask the dark gray letterbox bars to make the image more isolated and have more "pop" and look more like a real cinema (at least, before a lot of cinemas stopped masking!).


Thanks Impetigo, Yes our walls are painted in SW Carbonized from Lowes, flat, we did the ceiling and all trim in the same paint. I changed the outlets to black, painted all vents and recessed lighting to flat black. I do get some reflection do to the slight sheen off the ceiling, its textured, my wife noticed it last night and we will probably do some black velvet treatments on walls and ceiling towards the screen apx 6-8 feet back.

First purchase will be a screen or material to DIY one, from what I have read they are not that hard and I am decent at wood working. I just finished dual 18" subs, flat pack from DIYSG, Neutrik connectors, Inuke NU6000DSP to power them. I think they turned out pretty good, I did take my router to the complete box and rounded over the edges. Finished with DuraTex.

Second purchase will be a new AVR with Atmos, my current one is a Yamaha RX-A3000, about 5 years old but still sounds great. We have 7.2 setup, plan on doing some more DIYSG packs for front height setup with an external amp.


----------



## robc1976

jdbarnes63 said:


> Thanks, that makes sense. I didn't take into account or didn't understand that since the 5040 shows in native 16x9 the width of the screen remains the same. I am exactly 16'5" from lens to screen, that allows me to be 7" off the back wall plus 10" from ceiling to top of projector. With the 5040 setup at these distances I am watching a 160" 16x9 or 152" 2:35 equates to apx. 140" wide picture. We watched John Wick 2 in 2:35 at that size and it was great. We then switched on the Houston Astros game and watched it in 16x9, Wow, set sound system to 7 channel and it sounded and felt like we are at the game. Here is a picture with just using a white sheet, if this does not convince any fence sitters I don't know what will. I cant wait to get a real screen now.


 wait until you use dave Harper's settings


----------



## robc1976

bommai said:


> I use natural for all sdr material.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 tried this with Dave's settings, gamma at 0 and cms at default and it looks awesome. Now I have to decide between this and bright cinema.


----------



## socalsharky

gene4ht said:


> For the past 17 years, my past projectors have been mounted 3"- 4" from the ceiling. Using a Chief RPA mount and an SLB357 custom bracket, the top of my current projector (5040) is exactly 3" from the ceiling...absolutely no issues.


Gene--did you mount the RPA directly to the ceiling, or are you using a short drop tube and mounting plate? I'm wondering if the RPA is mounted directly to the ceiling if there is room to tighten the nuts that hold the custom plate (which will be mounted to the projector) to the RPA unit.


----------



## jdbarnes63

robc1976 said:


> tried this with Dave's settings, gamma at 0 and cms at default and it looks awesome. Now I have to decide between this and bright cinema.


I have to plug Dave's settings in next, we watched the movie and game in Bright Cinema and the colors for the game looked spot on. We have a Samsung 59" plasma for the main TV viewing and my colors on the Epson out of the box blow it away. Blacks are on par with the plasma and I didn't think that would be.


----------



## robc1976

jdbarnes63 said:


> I have to plug Dave's settings in next, we watched the movie and game in Bright Cinema and the colors for the game looked spot on. We have a Samsung 59" plasma for the main TV viewing and my colors on the Epson out of the box blow it away. Blacks are on par with the plasma and I didn't think that would be.


 I only used his sdr settings. If you watch UHD with daves HDR to SDR you will be blown away.

Your using bright cinemas out of the box? Or with tweaks.

I am trying to decide if I want "bright cinema" or "natural" mode calibrated for gaming/SDR and 1080P. I bet colors are more vibrant in "bright cinema".


----------



## gene4ht

I have the original RPA (not elite) mounted directly (no ceiling plate or drop tube) to the ceiling. This 3" clearance does make it a bit challenging to tighten the screws by hand. However, I hand tighten using my fingers and then used a pair of pliers to further tighten 1/2 turn or so. Also, to perform the pitch, yaw, etc. adjustments, you will need a long Phillips screwdriver. I believe I purchased a 15" one from Lowes. This entire process is much simpler and faster than it took me to described it! The beauty of these Chief mounts, along with their sturdiness, is their ability to quickly and effortlessly dismount and remount while maintaining perfect alignment and registration...you won't be disappointed.


----------



## jason_galaxy

What are people's impressions of the latest firmware? With HDR auto-bright are the Harper settings still
needed? I ask because to me it looks pretty good in ECO mode without having to up the power and the
fan noise.


----------



## jason_galaxy

One more question. I just started playing with 3D. I have not seen the ghosting that others have seen
but on Lifte of Pi when the opening credits run they get distorted when there is movement in the background.
This goes away with enhancement "fast" instead of "fine". 

The difference is dramatic. I know fast is the recommendation for 3D but I was surprised how much.
I am using the IR transmitter on the UBE, do others see this as well?

What do I give up by leaving it on fast all the time so I don't have to switch back and forth.


----------



## gene4ht

socalsharky said:


> Gene--did you mount the RPA directly to the ceiling, or are you using a short drop tube and mounting plate? I'm wondering if the RPA is mounted directly to the ceiling if there is room to tighten the nuts that hold the custom plate (which will be mounted to the projector) to the RPA unit.


For some reason my initial response did not quote you...see my response to your question in post #8914.


----------



## taylor34

Did anyone here have issues with colors not looking right for video games? I'm trying to play Overwatch on my xbox and every setting outside of natural just doesn't look right, either the colors are off or the white is blinding. Natural is ok but honestly not great. Movies are fine btw, didn't notice any issues there, just with video games, specifically overwatch so far (haven't had much time to play other things yet). Thanks


----------



## Craig Peer

socalsharky said:


> Gene--did you mount the RPA directly to the ceiling, or are you using a short drop tube and mounting plate? I'm wondering if the RPA is mounted directly to the ceiling if there is room to tighten the nuts that hold the custom plate (which will be mounted to the projector) to the RPA unit.


You can also gain a little room by using a CMA101 ceiling plate and a 1 1/2" threaded close nipple from the plumbing aisle at Home Depot, which in my experience makes adjustments a little easier. Plus, it allows a bit more air flow around the projector.


----------



## Craig Peer

Here's a good review I just came across - http://hdgear.highdefdigest.com/48021/epson_5040ub_0640ub_projectors_4k_enhancement_hdr.html

And just a reminder that the 5040ub ( and e ) is on sale until June 24th !


----------



## Dave Harper

taylor34 said:


> Did anyone here have issues with colors not looking right for video games? I'm trying to play Overwatch on my xbox and every setting outside of natural just doesn't look right, either the colors are off or the white is blinding. Natural is ok but honestly not great. Movies are fine btw, didn't notice any issues there, just with video games, specifically overwatch so far (haven't had much time to play other things yet). Thanks


Oh, I just thought of something Taylor. You mention it is best in Natural Mode, and that is where I did my movie/tv SDR calibration. I also did Digital Cinema Mode for HDR on SDR HarperVision. You may want to check the gamma setting and CMS. I think they are global and stick when switching inputs if I am not mistaken, and maybe those are too much for the other modes you're trying. Check those and let us know what they are. Also what your other settings are like brightness,contrast, etc.


----------



## jdbarnes63

robc1976 said:


> I only used his sdr settings. If you watch UHD with daves HDR to SDR you will be blown away.
> 
> Your using bright cinemas out of the box? Or with tweaks.
> 
> I am trying to decide if I want "bright cinema" or "natural" mode calibrated for gaming/SDR and 1080P. I bet colors are more vibrant in "bright cinema".


Rob, I'm just using right out of the box. I just got it in Tuesday so really have not had it long enough to try everything out yet. I did play with settings for throw and zoom, I was going to get the 138" 2:35 but the wife said nope, we need the 158" 2:35 so I ordered that and it will be in Saturday. Projects keep coming, never a dull moment. Projector mount will be in tomorrow so that will get mounted then will run all the cables and power to the ceiling. Lucky that I have attic access, not looking forward to that. Houston is 100F today so hope it cools a few by Monday.


----------



## philipbtz

taylor34 said:


> Did anyone here have issues with colors not looking right for video games? I'm trying to play Overwatch on my xbox and every setting outside of natural just doesn't look right, either the colors are off or the white is blinding. Natural is ok but honestly not great. Movies are fine btw, didn't notice any issues there, just with video games, specifically overwatch so far (haven't had much time to play other things yet). Thanks


Xboxes are nutorious for messing up blacklevels among other things. Test different outputs from the xbox. Also check that if you're outputting rec.709 that the projector is set to auto or rec.709. Check your gamma settings. Superwhite should be off etc. This is for sure a settings issue or xbox outputting wrong.


----------



## john barlow

jdbarnes63 said:


> I am new to the projection scene, I received my Epson 5040 yesterday and have setup per instructions. My room is a dedicated room with dark walls, light controlled settings. Dimensions for the room are 16' W 19"D and 8' H. Current seating is 12' screen wall to MLP, I have not purchased a screen yet as I am trying to determine the largest 2:35:1 size that I can go. I will use this space for movie watching only. I would like to go with an AT screen so MLP will change to 10', My questions are #1 , what is the largest screen I can go in this setup #2 , I have the projector set at 17' from the wall now, when I play TV shows 16:9 I get a screen size apx 131" wide by 75" tall, when I watch a movie in 2:35, I still am set to 131" wide and 54" tall, is this normal or should it go wider?


My home cinema is 14ft wide and I have an 11 ft, 130" scope screen. No regrets. The man that sold us our Stewart Screen recommended I go as wide as I could get away with. Enjoy your cinema. It's my favorite room anywhere.


----------



## gene4ht

socalsharky said:


> Gene--did you mount the RPA directly to the ceiling, or are you using a short drop tube and mounting plate? I'm wondering if the RPA is mounted directly to the ceiling if there is room to tighten the nuts that hold the custom plate (which will be mounted to the projector) to the RPA unit.





Craig Peer said:


> You can also gain a little room by using a CMA101 ceiling plate and a 1 1/2" threaded close nipple from the plumbing aisle at Home Depot, which in my experience makes adjustments a little easier. Plus, it allows a bit more air flow around the projector.


For 8 foot or higher ceilings, Craig's suggestion is ideal for ease of initial installation. For some of us with ceilings under 8 foot and/or projectors mounted over a second row of seating on a riser, it is preferable/desirable to minimize ceiling to projector distance. At the 3" clearance I mentioned in my previous post, installation is not at all difficult with the Chief components employing the method I described. Air circulation with a 3" clearance has been more than adequate and heat was never an issue with any projector I've owned.


----------



## Steven414

To those of you ‘wide screen’ users with the 5040, how is that working for you without an anamorphic lens? Any noticeable top and bottom spillover? Are the blacks on this projector that good? Thinking about switching screen ratios .


----------



## carp

jdbarnes63 said:


> Rob, I'm just using right out of the box. I just got it in Tuesday so really have not had it long enough to try everything out yet. I did play with settings for throw and zoom, I was going to get the 138" 2:35 but the wife said nope, we need the 158" 2:35 so I ordered that and it will be in Saturday. Projects keep coming, never a dull moment. Projector mount will be in tomorrow so that will get mounted then will run all the cables and power to the ceiling. Lucky that I have attic access, not looking forward to that. Houston is 100F today so hope it cools a few by Monday.


Nice! I have that exact same screen size and have had this size since 2011 - you will love it. 

How far back will you be from the screen? My eyes in my first row are 10' from the screen and in the back row 17'.


----------



## jjwinterberg

rgraylin said:


> OK guys, been reading this forum for a while and learned a lot but came across a situation in need of your help.
> 
> May basement is almost completed and installer has been working on theater. I have an Epson 5040UB, Marantz 6011, PS4, and Samsung UBD-M9500 (mix up as I asked for Sony). The installer ran premium HDMI cable (~30') but other subs ruined the cable. The installed decided to use a Balun, Key Digital KD-x222 over single CAT6, as opposed to trying to run another HDMI cable as the basement is 95% done. Below are the specs for the Balun. My concern is that losing the premium HDMI cable means I'm giving up HDR today as well as future capability.
> 
> The Balun was installed today, and I tested what I could (no 4K HDR movies) using Samsung YouTube app streaming 4K HDR samples. I was unable to get an HDR signal, maybe not possible via Samsung/YouTube. Also was unable to get HDR signal even though PS4 recognizes Epson and allows setting of YPb... and Deep Color.
> 
> So what do you think based on below specs? I'm having trouble deciphering what I'm losing using a balun. Should I insist on the new Premium HDMI cable?
> 
> [/LIST]


You didn't say; was/is your cable run through a conduit? If not, do yourself a favor and insist that one be installed. 

The balun will likely work with the 5040 as the projector only supports 10ish Gb/s. The Key Digital balun costs over $300; you may want to consider the Monoprice optical HDMI at about $150. 

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024018&p_id=21568&seq=1&format=2


----------



## robc1976

jason_galaxy said:


> What are people's impressions of the latest firmware? With HDR auto-bright are the Harper settings still
> needed? I ask because to me it looks pretty good in ECO mode without having to up the power and the
> fan noise.


 Dave's settings are much better, the black levels and detail are jaw dropping and that was with CMS at default.


----------



## robc1976

Steven414 said:


> To those of you ‘wide screen’ users with the 5040, how is that working for you without an anamorphic lens? Any noticeable top and bottom spillover? Are the blacks on this projector that good? Thinking about switching screen ratios .


 jaw dropping man, I literally can dial it in right to edge. I ideal spill 1/8" to make it easier though lol!


----------



## robc1976

philipbtz said:


> Xboxes are nutorious for messing up blacklevels among other things. Test different outputs from the xbox. Also check that if you're outputting rec.709 that the projector is set to auto or rec.709. Check your gamma settings. Superwhite should be off etc. This is for sure a settings issue or xbox outputting wrong.


 disable YCC and your colors will look better. Are you using 4K resolution SDR? I had mine in digital cinema and it was to dark. natural is good but mutes colors a bit. Going to calibrate in "bright cinema" to see if that's the ticket. Dave Harper suggest bright cinema in sdr content but display has to be calibrated. Out of box will be way too bright and probably blow out black levels. More experienced guys here will chime in.


----------



## robc1976

jdbarnes63 said:


> Rob, I'm just using right out of the box. I just got it in Tuesday so really have not had it long enough to try everything out yet. I did play with settings for throw and zoom, I was going to get the 138" 2:35 but the wife said nope, we need the 158" 2:35 so I ordered that and it will be in Saturday. Projects keep coming, never a dull moment. Projector mount will be in tomorrow so that will get mounted then will run all the cables and power to the ceiling. Lucky that I have attic access, not looking forward to that. Houston is 100F today so hope it cools a few by Monday.


 you made the right decision, I bought a 138" 2.35 a month ago and just bought a 158" 2.35 today lol


----------



## carp

robc1976 said:


> you made the right decision, I bought a 138" 2.35 a month ago and just bought a 158" 2.35 today lol


Atta boy!


----------



## robc1976

HTML:







carp said:


> Atta boy!


 lol, its so addicting


----------



## ac388

*4k/SDR settings*

Hey Dave,

I got nothing more to say but to SALUTE you !!! I tried your 4K/SDR settings last nite n it was Magnificent ! I had a collection of some 4K documentary from NHK(Japan) n they look great with your settings. Actually in the past, I had some friends n so-call experts to come over to help me calibrate on this stuff, none come out satisfastory. 

Please accept my thanks from the bottom of my heart.








Dave Harper said:


> Oh, I just thought of something Taylor. You mention it is best in Natural Mode, and that is where I did my movie/tv SDR calibration. I also did Digital Cinema Mode for HDR on SDR HarperVision. You may want to check the gamma setting and CMS. I think they are global and stick when switching inputs if I am not mistaken, and maybe those are too much for the other modes you're trying. Check those and let us know what they are. Also what your other settings are like brightness,contrast, etc.


----------



## carp

You guys getting 158" screens should post some pics when you get it all setup. 

So... I'm sure this has been covered by I read this thread very sporadically. Has Dave posted settings for Blu ray/tv? I'm guessing no but figured I'd ask. Like many here I'm really impressed with his 4K/HDR settings.


----------



## robc1976

carp said:


> You guys getting 158" screens should post some pics when you get it all setup.
> 
> So... I'm sure this has been covered by I read this thread very sporadically. Has Dave posted settings for Blu ray/tv? I'm guessing no but figured I'd ask. Like many here I'm really impressed with his 4K/HDR settings.


 no 1080p yet, here is my 138" will get 158" soon


----------



## GeneHT

Steven414 said:


> To those of you ‘wide screen’ users with the 5040, how is that working for you without an anamorphic lens? Any noticeable top and bottom spillover? Are the blacks on this projector that good? Thinking about switching screen ratios .


I am using the following and just love it, the image fits perfect.

158-inch Diagonal, 2.35:1 Aspect Ratio. View Size: 61.9" H x 145.4" W. 
Overall Size: 62.8" H x 146.3" W.
Screen Material: CineWhite, 1.1 Gain. 4K Ultra HD and Active 3D Projection Ready.

I am still waiting for my recliners to finish up the cave.


----------



## GeneHT

robc1976 said:


> no 1080p yet, here is my 138" will get 158" soon


What are you using on your ceiling, I need to do something like that yet to the cave for sound reflections and those look interesting?

Thanks

Gene


----------



## carp

robc1976 said:


> no 1080p yet, here is my 138" will get 158" soon


Great choice, that front wall is perfect for a bigger screen.


----------



## jdbarnes63

robc1976 said:


> carp said:
> 
> 
> 
> You guys getting 158" screens should post some pics when you get it all setup.
> 
> So... I'm sure this has been covered by I read this thread very sporadically. Has Dave posted settings for Blu ray/tv? I'm guessing no but figured I'd ask. Like many here I'm really impressed with his 4K/HDR settings.
> 
> 
> 
> no 1080p yet, here is my 138" will get 158" soon
Click to expand...

Rob, your setup looks great, now I'm jealous, i still need the sound treatments like you have. Another project. As far as a screen pic, I'm still using a sheet until Saturday but im getting great results like that. Iwill post some of those in the morning.


----------



## jdbarnes63

GeneHT said:


> robc1976 said:
> 
> 
> 
> no 1080p yet, here is my 138" will get 158" soon
> 
> 
> 
> What are you using on your ceiling, I need to do something like that yet to the cave for sound reflections and those look interesting?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Gene[/QUOTE
> 
> Second what Gene asked about the sound panels
Click to expand...


----------



## jesped2

New EH-TW9300/6040UB owner here, just upgraded the Firmware to 1.09

Frame Interpolation works ok for me on PS3, but on Win10 PC with a GTX1070 it stutters every few seconds. Tried different refresh rates but it doesn't make a difference.

Is it working ok for any of you?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> disable YCC and your colors will look better. Are you using 4K resolution SDR? I had mine in digital cinema and it was to dark. natural is good but mutes colors a bit. Going to calibrate in "bright cinema" to see if that's the ticket. *Dave Harper suggest bright cinema in sdr content but display has to be calibrated.* Out of box will be way too bright and probably blow out black levels. More experienced guys here will chime in.



Are you saying that about my HarperVision settings for HDR on SDR, or for actual SDR material?

For HV, I use Digital Cinema and for SDR I am usually using Natural Mode. I used to use Bright Cinema with an awesome custom curve from @Oledurt that I tweaked a little for my personal room and tastes, and which also served as the initial inspiration for HarperVision HDR in SDR in DC mode. Speaking of, where is Oledurt? I miss his awesome and valuable input here. He helped so many of us, including me!




ac388 said:


> Hey Dave,
> 
> I got nothing more to say but to SALUTE you !!! I tried your 4K/SDR settings last nite n it was Magnificent ! I had a collection of some 4K documentary from NHK(Japan) n they look great with your settings. Actually in the past, I had some friends n so-call experts to come over to help me calibrate on this stuff, none come out satisfastory.
> 
> Please accept my thanks from the bottom of my heart.



Oh wow, you're very welcome sir! 




carp said:


> You guys getting 158" screens should post some pics when you get it all setup.
> 
> 
> 
> So... I'm sure this has been covered by I read this thread very sporadically. Has Dave posted settings for Blu ray/tv? I'm guessing no but figured I'd ask. Like many here I'm really impressed with his 4K/HDR settings.



I just posted them somewhere within the last few pages. If I see them again I'll link them here.


----------



## ac388

Hi Dave,

By the way, u still prefer the RGB/8bit over the 4:2:2/12bit setting on UHD player, after watching it again ???

Do u feel the same way with your new Epson LS10500 now ?


----------



## robc1976

jdbarnes63 said:


> GeneHT said:
> 
> 
> 
> What are you using on your ceiling, I need to do something like that yet to the cave for sound reflections and those look interesting?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Gene[/QUOTE
> 
> Second what Gene asked about the sound panels
> 
> 
> 
> those are GIK accoustics, 244 panels on 1st reflections on the ceiling. I have a lot because I have 11 speakers. I also have panels on 1st reflections on sidewalls. I have 8" monster bass traps on rear wall with 2 QRD diffusers. I have floor to ceiling tritraps in corners. 38/panels in all.
> 
> Walls are double studded with 4 layers of 5/8" drywall with 3 tubes of green glue between each sheet.
> 
> I am really into sound lol!
Click to expand...


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Are you saying that about my HarperVision settings for HDR on SDR, or for actual SDR material?
> 
> For HV, I use Digital Cinema and for SDR I am usually using Natural Mode. I used to use Bright Cinema with an awesome custom curve from @Oledurt that I tweaked a little for my personal room and tastes, and which also served as the initial inspiration for HarperVision HDR in SDR in DC mode. Speaking of, where is Oledurt? I miss his awesome and valuable input here. He helped so many of us, including me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh wow, you're very welcome sir!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just posted them somewhere within the last few pages. If I see them again I'll link them here.


NOOOOO! Dave, your HV is honestly the holy grail! I was referring to xbox settings. So you suggest "natural" for SDR? I thought you told me "bright cinema". I used your settings for natural and it us, way better than digital cinema for SDR but felt colors could pop more, that is with out of box cms though. You think bright cinema will be to bright for SDR?


----------



## robc1976

ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> By the way, u still prefer the RGB/8bit over the 4:2:2/12bit setting on UHD player, after watching it again ???
> 
> Do u feel the same way with your new Epson LS10500 now ?


 glad you bought this up, I haven't set mine too RGB


----------



## ac388

When I had the RGB/8bit setting on my Oppo 203, I did not see a whole lot of difference from 422/12 bit setting. Is it just me or I am missing some steps ???


----------



## Jay54583

Looking to purchase a 5040 by this weekend and had a few questions. Is it worth getting the wireless ube version if I have no obstructions for running an HDMI to it, and is there any advantages of ube over ub or vise versa? Also haven't seen much info in here about the Sony UBP-X800 player is this good or which is the best player for the money at this point? Considering the Sony Phillips Samsung players. Thanks


----------



## jdbarnes63

robc1976 said:


> jdbarnes63 said:
> 
> 
> 
> those are GIK accoustics, 244 panels on 1st reflections on the ceiling. I have a lot because I have 11 speakers. I also have panels on 1st reflections on sidewalls. I have 8" monster bass traps on rear wall with 2 QRD diffusers. I have floor to ceiling tritraps in corners. 38/panels in all.
> 
> Walls are double studded with 4 layers of 5/8" drywall with 3 tubes of green glue between each sheet.
> 
> I am really into sound lol!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, WoW! you have more money tied up into sound isolation than I have in a sound system. That is dedication, I will have to do that eventually as my wife said that she could hear the system when I was playing it at reference levels down the street. Waiting on when the neighbors are going to ask what is going on at our house. On your drywall, did you run hat channel/ isolation clips then Sheetrock/glue or just add the Sheetrock over existing Sheetrock?
Click to expand...


----------



## GeneHT

robc1976 said:


> jdbarnes63 said:
> 
> 
> 
> those are GIK accoustics, 244 panels on 1st reflections on the ceiling. I have a lot because I have 11 speakers. I also have panels on 1st reflections on sidewalls. I have 8" monster bass traps on rear wall with 2 QRD diffusers. I have floor to ceiling tritraps in corners. 38/panels in all.
> 
> Walls are double studded with 4 layers of 5/8" drywall with 3 tubes of green glue between each sheet.
> 
> I am really into sound lol!
> 
> 
> 
> Boy I guess your are really into sound lol!
> 
> I don't plan on getting that carried away, just a few, the room is about 16 feet wide and 20 feet long and 9 feet high, so just a few is OK for me.
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Gene
Click to expand...


----------



## jaggajatt

Jay54583 said:


> Looking to purchase a 5040 by this weekend and had a few questions. Is it worth getting the wireless ube version if I have no obstructions for running an HDMI to it, and is there any advantages of ube over ub or vise versa? Also haven't seen much info in here about the Sony UBP-X800 player is this good or which is the best player for the money at this point? Considering the Sony Phillips Samsung players. Thanks


The UBE has added support for greater output, 4:4:4 @4k24hz I believe


----------



## robc1976

Jay54583 said:


> Looking to purchase a 5040 by this weekend and had a few questions. Is it worth getting the wireless ube version if I have no obstructions for running an HDMI to it, and is there any advantages of ube over ub or vise versa? Also haven't seen much info in here about the Sony UBP-X800 player is this good or which is the best player for the money at this point? Considering the Sony Phillips Samsung players. Thanks


 have had all 3, get the panny


----------



## robc1976

GeneHT said:


> robc1976 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Boy I guess your are really into sound lol!
> 
> I don't plan on getting that carried away, just a few, the room is about 16 feet wide and 20 feet long and 9 feet high, so just a few is OK for me.
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Gene
> 
> 
> 
> panels will make a huge difference, just be sure they are placed correctly.
Click to expand...


----------



## robc1976

jdbarnes63 said:


> robc1976 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, WoW! you have more money tied up into sound isolation than I have in a sound system. That is dedication, I will have to do that eventually as my wife said that she could hear the system when I was playing it at reference levels down the street. Waiting on when the neighbors are going to ask what is going on at our house. On your drywall, did you run hat channel/ isolation clips then Sheetrock/glue or just add the Sheetrock over existing Sheetrock?
> 
> 
> 
> resilient channel, to be honest I don't think that is needed. Green glue is the key with staggered drywall is the key.
Click to expand...


----------



## jaggajatt

Dave Harper said:


> Yes!!! How's this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma 0 (I actually forgot and had my HV curve still in initially and it didn't look half bad actually, giving it a depth to it!, although not scientifically correct)
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Color Space BT709
> HDMI Video Range Normal
> Image Enhancements & Sharpness at defaults (or to taste. You can decrease Sharpness a couple clicks for less ringing in patterns, but it isn't intrusive on content that I saw.)
> 
> I'm so sorry, but I thought I took a picture of the CMS for SDR Natural but I must not have! I only see one for HV HDR. Then I packed it up and shipped it to its new owner. Maybe they can chime in with what it is once they set it up?


Dave I know you mentioned you don't have the CMS setting, do you recall the color temp settings? 6500k and skin tone 3? thanks


----------



## robc1976

jaggajatt said:


> Dave I know you mentioned you don't have the CMS setting, do you recall the color temp settings? 6500k and skin tone 3? thanks


 I would like to know this as well


----------



## KayGee000

I just ceiling mounted my 6040 with the included Chief mount and the projector is a few inches above the top edge of the screen. It seems to shoot an image almost directly in front of it compared to my last projector that pushed the image up pretty high when used on a table/desk. 

I've never had a projector with lens shift before, so my question is really around how much lens shift I should use versus angling the mount/projector downward to get the picture aligned properly.

It looks like I can get the alignment I need with just using lens shift, but it seems like I'm using a lot of shift. Is that okay? If I angle the projector then I end up needing a lot of keystone correction, but I can make it work that way as well.

Is there a best practice I should be following for aligning it?

UPDATE: I may have answered my own question. Keystone correction causes some compression of the image, whereas lens shift does not. I should level the projector and use lens correction exclusively, which shouldn't be a problem based on the mounting location and dimensions of the room.


----------



## Duddits

Today i recieved my UB700 and tested Harpervision. But my fw is 1,08. Do I need to update before I use Daves settings? 
The only difference I see in the info is "Bt2020 HDR2", should it says just HDR?
And the picture is not as good if I use Bright cinema with Hdr1 I get a much "better" picture.
I use a Dnp 0.8 gain screen, but that really should not matter.
Someone got any input on this?


----------



## Dave Harper

Duddits said:


> Today i recieved my UB700 and tested Harpervision. But my fw is 1,08. Do I need to update before I use Daves settings?
> The only difference I see in the info is "Bt2020 HDR2", should it says just HDR?
> And the picture is not as good if I use Bright cinema with Hdr1 I get a much "better" picture.
> I use a Dnp 0.8 gain screen, but that really should not matter.
> Someone got any input on this?



I don't think that FW will make a difference. It won't hurt to update though. 

You want the player and the 5040 Info screen to show that you are sending and receiving full HDR bt2020 4K. Then in the actual menu settings, you put it in Digital Cinema Mode and put in my HarperVision settings, which mean manually selecting SDR mode and my custom gamma amongst the others. 




ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> By the way, u still prefer the RGB/8bit over the 4:2:2/12bit setting on UHD player, after watching it again ???
> 
> Do u feel the same way with your new Epson LS10500 now ?



I don't believe that was for the 5040. That was just noticed for the LS10000. I may have tried it on the 5040, but as others said it was hard to tell a difference iirc. 




jaggajatt said:


> Dave I know you mentioned you don't have the CMS setting, do you recall the color temp settings? 6500k and skin tone 3? thanks



I believe I went to custom color temp and then did my greyscale from that, getting the values I posted in the pictures. Let me try to double check. 

Sorry I was calibrating all three I had here in a short time and may be confusing some of them now. 



robc1976 said:


> NOOOOO! Dave, your HV is honestly the holy grail! I was referring to xbox settings. So you suggest "natural" for SDR? I thought you told me "bright cinema". I used your settings for natural and it us, way better than digital cinema for SDR but felt colors could pop more, that is with out of box cms though. You think bright cinema will be to bright for SDR?



I believe I have only suggested BC mode to use for HDR with Oledurt's custom curve for HDR, back before I created HV. I think I've always used Natural for SDR. If I told you otherwise, I apologize. (Hey, I'm a poet and didn't know it!)


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave Harper said:


> I don't think
> 
> I don't believe .... iirc.
> 
> I believe
> Sorry I ... may be confusing some of them now
> 
> I believe
> didn't know it!)


Sounds much like "Jeff Sessions"... 
(Sorry just having some fun)


----------



## Duddits

Do not know what I did with the Ub700 player, but just been watching a scene from Oblivian with Harpervision and now it was awsome 
More testing is need to be done, working this weekend, not so much time :/


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I don't think that FW will make a difference. It won't hurt to update though.
> 
> You want the player and the 5040 Info screen to show that you are sending and receiving full HDR bt2020 4K. Then in the actual menu settings, you put it in Digital Cinema Mode and put in my HarperVision settings, which mean manually selecting SDR mode and my custom gamma amongst the others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't believe that was for the 5040. That was just noticed for the LS10000. I may have tried it on the 5040, but as others said it was hard to tell a difference iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe I went to custom color temp and then did my greyscale from that, getting the values I posted in the pictures. Let me try to double check.
> 
> Sorry I was calibrating all three I had here in a short time and may be confusing some of them now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe I have only suggested BC mode to use for HDR with Oledurt's custom curve for HDR, back before I created HV. I think I've always used Natural for SDR. If I told you otherwise, I apologize. (Hey, I'm a poet and didn't know it!) jp


 It wss me, I told you I was using digital cinema but switched to bright cinema and you said that is a good idea. I will for sure use natural if you suggest it.


----------



## gene4ht

KayGee000 said:


> Is there a best practice I should be following for aligning it?
> 
> UPDATE:* I may have answered my own question. *Keystone correction causes some compression of the image, whereas lens shift does not. I should level the projector and use lens correction exclusively, which shouldn't be a problem based on the mounting location and dimensions of the room.


Yes you did. Best practice is...Level the projector and utilize lens shift as necessary and absolutely avoid using any keystone adjustments.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> It wss me, I told you I was using digital cinema but switched to bright cinema and you said that is a good idea. I will for sure use natural if you suggest it.



Maybe I was thinking you were talking about HDR or something, idk. See old man response, below....... 



aaranddeeman said:


> Sounds much like "Jeff Sessions"...
> 
> (Sorry just having some fun)



Yes, because with us old guys, all we can say is what we think we recall from prior experiences, because nowadays there's videos and recordings of practically everything and God forbid our old memories miss ONE word or sentence and those young millennial whipper snappers would roast us alive like we intentionally misled everyone or something!


----------



## Lesmor

My 6040/9300 gives great PQ but
Panning has not very good on my Epson 6040/9300, the image sometimes stutters and drops a frame
I just tried this out with my S&M test disc which has a "motion" test
At 24p it is unwatchable and changing FI does not help at all
I tried it on my Oppo 203 and Panasonic UB700 same result
I am not a happy camper
Unless I am missing something I now need to consider my options
Any thoughts?


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> My 6040/9300 gives great PQ but
> Panning has not very good on my Epson 6040/9300, the image sometimes stutters and drops a frame
> I just tried this out with my S&M test disc which has a "motion" test
> At 24p it is unwatchable and changing FI does not help at all
> I tried it on my Oppo 203 and Panasonic UB700 same result
> I am not a happy camper
> Unless I am missing something I now need to consider my options
> Any thoughts?


I know is we both have some issues with motion Andy on the 6040/9300, but that test on the s&m disc has been a fail on every single display I have owned including my Sony TV.

I've tried Fi to and don't like the issues it brings. What does that test on your TV look like ? When your up close enough so both displays appear the same size ?.


----------



## Lesmor

panman40 said:


> I know is we both have some issues with motion Andy on the 6040/9300, but that test on the s&m disc has been a fail on every single display I have owned including my Sony TV.
> 
> I've tried Fi to and don't like the issues it brings. What does that test on your TV look like ? When your up close enough so both displays appear the same size ?.


Never tried it on TV but good call

On the PJ the girl in the hammock is so bad it is just unwatchable no matter which FI you choose


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> Never tried it on TV but good call
> 
> On the PJ the girl in the hammock is so bad it is just unwatchable no matter which FI you choose


Is that one of those camcorder shaky cam type films ?. Those are bad news for me.


----------



## Lesmor

panman40 said:


> Is that one of those camcorder shaky cam type films ?. Those are bad news for me.


No it is part of the S&M test disc

Blu-rays are mastered in 24p so need to look right
The best S&M motion tests are "Girl in a Hammock" it looks terrible

Also the video filmed by S&M showing a boat on a river
There is a sea plane that flies (Or I should say stutters across) from left to right it looks appalling


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> No it is part of the S&M test disc
> 
> Blu-rays are mastered in 24p so need to look right
> The best S&M motion tests are "Girl in a Hammock" it looks terrible
> 
> Also the video filmed by S&M showing a boat on a river
> There is a sea plane that flies (Or I should say stutters across) from left to right it looks appalling


Ahh ok,


----------



## Seawater

*Upgrading From 5020UB to 5040UB*

I finally went for it and ordered the 5040UB. I've had the 5020UB now for over 4 years. And it still to me is a fantastic projector. I have it up for sale now on eBay. This forum has always been helpful. Looking forward to the new projector.


----------



## Matt Vaughn

I own a 5040 and have been following this thread very closely. I do not own an UltraHD player right now but am looking to purchase one. Question, is there any player (shield,pc,etc.) that can play an HDR10 test file similar to what you find on demo-uhd3d? Trying to see what this projector can do in my home. They are listed as 10 bit 4:2:0, which according to the HDMI chipset limitations on the OP will not work. Is it possible and would you have to convert the file to 12 bit 4:2:2 to make it run? Didn't know if this was possible to do a test. Thanks in advance.


----------



## sddp

Seawater said:


> I finally went for it and ordered the 5040UB. I've had the 5020UB now for over 4 years. And it still to me is a fantastic projector. I have it up for sale now on eBay. This forum has always been helpful. Looking forward to the new projector.






You will be very pleased at what this can do. The irony is I wonder what will be out in 4 years from now when most of us will be upgrading to the 5080 and one day someone will bring this post up saying wow what a HUGE difference compared to my 4 year old 5040. Makes you wonder what technology will be out by then.


----------



## SeargentPeppers

Can someone help answer my question about the lens memory feature on this projector. I'm going to be making a DIY screen and was wondering instead of opting for 2.35 or 16.9 aspect ratio, am I able to just make it as wide and tall as possible in order to display the biggest possible size in both formats?


----------



## carp

SeargentPeppers said:


> Can someone help answer my question about the lens memory feature on this projector. I'm going to be making a DIY screen and was wondering instead of opting for 2.35 or 16.9 aspect ratio, am I able to just make it as wide and tall as possible in order to display the biggest possible size in both formats?



If I understand correctly, what you are wanting to do is have the largest screen as possible. If so, are you height limited or width limited on your screen wall? If height limited then go with a 2:35:1 screen and you will have bars on the side (empty space actually) for 16:9 content. If you are width limited go 16:9 and you will have bars on the top and bottom for 2:35:1 content.


----------



## SeargentPeppers

carp said:


> If I understand correctly, what you are wanting to do is have the largest screen as possible. If so, are you height limited or width limited on your screen wall? If height limited then go with a 2:35:1 screen and you will have bars on the side (empty space actually) for 16:9 content. If you are width limited go 16:9 and you will have bars on the top and bottom for 2:35:1 content.


I am both width and height limited in that opting for a fixed aspect ratio screen would result in a smaller than desired image when watching other rations on it. My plan was to build a screen wide enough to encompass a 125" 2.35 image and tall enough to fit a 120" 16x9 image. It would mean having vertical empty screen bars for 16x9 and horizontal bars for 2.35 but I would implement a masking system. Am I explaining myself correctly?


----------



## jdbarnes63

SeargentPeppers said:


> I am both width and height limited in that opting for a fixed aspect ratio screen would result in a smaller than desired image when watching other rations on it. My plan was to build a screen wide enough to encompass a 125" 2.35 image and tall enough to fit a 120" 16x9 image. It would mean having vertical empty screen bars for 16x9 and horizontal bars for 2.35 but I would implement a masking system. Am I explaining myself correctly?


As I found out this past week getting the projector and I asked the same question. Your image projected will be no wider than the largest 16:9 image you can get on the wall. When you use lens zoom to go to 2:35 aspect ratio, the width will still be the same only the height will change. This is do to the native resolution set at 16:9 for the 5040. I opted for a 158" Silver Ticket in white at 2:35 ratio for a completely light controlled room. I have a 16' wall and 8' ceilings. The screen is apx. 6" from the ceiling and apx 19.5" from each side wall. The projector is mounted apx 3" from back wall and the room is 19' deep. I zoom in when we watch HDTV so I have black bars on both sides of image but it fills the top - bottom space 62". The Silver Ticket in that size has a 4" velvet border wrapping the extruded aluminium and looks really nice. I would have chosen to have a zero border but had a hard time getting one in that size plus getting it overnight from Amazon. You lose 8" in width and height do to the border.


----------



## Seawater

*To Upgrade HDMI for 5040UB or Not*

I am upgrading from a 5020 to a 5040. I currently use a 25ft. Bluerigger HDMI cable that runs from a Denon 6300 receiver to the 5020. It has always worked fine. Yet this receiver outputs 2.2 4K. And I'm going to use a 4K Bluray Player. So I'm not sure if this cable will work. Has anyone had to upgrade their HDMI cable who upgraded to the 5040? The reviews on this Bluerigger cable said it won't pass the 4K signal. Yet I've seen videos where it said that it doesn't matter.


----------



## ls1ashley

ht guy said:


> I too have had the occasional shut-off issue.
> 
> Unfortunately, the three times it has happened have been about 60-75 minutes into the main feature...with company...
> 
> No lights flashing afterwards that I noticed...
> 
> Otherwise over the moon with this amazing projector.


Adding my name to the list of the random shutting off. Usually about an hour in, but then afterwards it doesn't happen? I don't use it much and I've had it happen on  tv and WiiU. I don't think it's happened on TV or BluRay yet but I'm really starting to diagnose it.


----------



## carp

SeargentPeppers said:


> I am both width and height limited in that opting for a fixed aspect ratio screen would result in a smaller than desired image when watching other rations on it. My plan was to build a screen wide enough to encompass a 125" 2.35 image and tall enough to fit a 120" 16x9 image. It would mean having vertical empty screen bars for 16x9 and horizontal bars for 2.35 but I would implement a masking system. Am I explaining myself correctly?



Ahh I get it. Since you are building the frame/screen yourself then yes that would work, and I think it's a good idea since I like having the biggest screen possible, especially for movies. 

Looking at the numbers, it might be a bit of a let down that your image for watching tv would be 11 inches taller than your image for watching scope movies, but you could always make the 16:9 image smaller (and change the size of the masking) if that bugged you like it would me.


----------



## Azekecse

Seawater said:


> I am upgrading from a 5020 to a 5040. I currently use a 25ft. Bluerigger HDMI cable that runs from a Denon 6300 receiver to the 5020. It has always worked fine. Yet this receiver outputs 2.2 4K. And I'm going to use a 4K Bluray Player. So I'm not sure if this cable will work. Has anyone had to upgrade their HDMI cable who upgraded to the 5040? The reviews on this Bluerigger cable said it won't pass the 4K signal. Yet I've seen videos where it said that it doesn't matter.


I switched to the Celerity Technologies Detachable Fiber Optic HDMI Cable, it has worked well for me. Others may chime in with their recommendations...

Happy Father's Day Everyone...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Shane M

Hey all,

I'm looking at a new potential PJ setup in a new house and was looking for some advice. 

I'm looking at the 5040 as a step up from the 2045 I had in my previous house. Looking at a 110-120" screen, 12' throw. My questions are twofold. 

1) I have a ceiling fan in the middle of the room with a 14" drop. I am looking at a screen with an extra 12" drop so the image would start around 16" below the ceiling. But I'm not sure where that means I can put my PJ vertically. Would the top of the lens need to be at about 13" from the ceiling to not be obstructed, or does the top of that image come from the bottom of the lens, allowing me to snug the ceiling a bit? I ask because it's a 9' ceiling but having the 5040 mounted "so low" would not be ideal aesthetically, because it's a main room in the house and in fact the room you enter from the front door. 

edit: Another option is Elite Screens make some electrics with 24-30" extra drops instead of 12". This could presumably resolve the situation and put me in the sweet spot WRT eye level.

2) Light control. I have 3 large west facing windows directly opposite the screen. I know the 5040 will throw a lot more light than the 2045 at this throw, but obviously light control is needed. Would blackout blinds be sufficient or would I need blackout curtains? Any suggestions about additional light, from for example 5 SF of frosted glass from around the front door, directly opposite and 15' over from the screen center? 

Some pics attached.


----------



## inspector

Seawater said:


> I am upgrading from a 5020 to a 5040. I currently use a 25ft. Bluerigger HDMI cable that runs from a Denon 6300 receiver to the 5020. It has always worked fine. Yet this receiver outputs 2.2 4K. And I'm going to use a 4K Bluray Player. So I'm not sure if this cable will work. Has anyone had to upgrade their HDMI cable who upgraded to the 5040? The reviews on this Bluerigger cable said it won't pass the 4K signal. Yet I've seen videos where it said that it doesn't matter.



I had to up grade from Chocolate Cable 1.4 to Monoprice Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI Cable 40' and it works perfect!


----------



## tuckerpc389

Wanted to give my .02 to this thread since I recently purchased the Epson 5040ub. I upgraded from a Benq 1085ST to this projector. I am running it with a 35ft Bluerigger HMI cable from amazon for those that questioned distances, brands etc and I have had no issues whatsoever with audio/video 4k etc. My screen is standard 106 inch 1:1 white from Silver ticket. I am using an oppo udp-203 for UHD blu ray disks and regular blu ray disks, and an Onkyo tx-nr3030 for my receiver. First like others have mentioned, the projector is HUGE. It is rather loud on high power settings, but on medium and low you can barely hear it at all. I was able to relatively quickly dial in the lens position etc with little to no effort on my part since it's done via the remote. After tinkering with other user's settings they've posted on here, I settled into my own settings over a few hours of viewing and making changes. I found I preferred Bright Cinema setting, 4k enhancement preset 4, power medium. These seemed to produce the best picture in my environment, which is light controlled and only used for movies/games in a dedicated viewing room. Now too many people get in these long-winded diatribe, tangent-filled debates over the whole "faux-K" aspect of the pixel shifting projectors and several other brands costing triple. I however, and those who have viewed this projector in my environment, found the picture to be pretty amazing. I am more than happy with faux-k. Though I don't think you can realistically debate the upper echelon sony and jvc projectors not being better than this.However having seen a few in person, they aren't $7K-15K better IMO. So for the price point and value/bang for the buck, I would think these Epson's will be hard to beat for quite awhile. I have absolutely no buyers remorse and have had no issues so far with anything. I am admittedly using a standard ps4 and xbox one, but using the Oppo udp-203 with no problems. I did notice the whole HDR is too dim issue others have mentioned. I tried the settings, but realized I preferred it off and a brighter, punchier picture myself. So far what it's worth, if you are on the fence about this projector I highly recommend it myself. The picture with 4k material, and "4k enhanced" 1080p material looks absolutely amazing to me.


----------



## Dave Harper

@tuckerpc389, Have you tried my HarperVision HDR on SDR settings for HDR content? It helps with the darkness you mentioned but maintains the wide color gamut filter. 

The link with settings is just below my signature here.


----------



## doors.sl

Hi!
I own an Epson 5040ub and I`m having problems with Lens Memory.
When i change the Lens Memory for 16:9 screen to 2:35:1 screen, the new recall its imprecise.
I already tried to record the Memory of the lenses in different ways, but always that I read a new lens memory, different from the current, the Reading is inaccurate. 

Does anyone have the same problem?
Managed to solve?

thanks!


----------



## gene4ht

@*tuckerpc389 *Excellent post! There seem to be many in this and other threads who question (newbies and owners wishing to upgrade) the quality of faux 4K and are on the fence or doubters. In this regard, there should be a sticky for this topic! In any case, my perspective parallels your experience exactly! IMO, the Epson 5040/6040 is an outstanding PJ...great color, bright, sharp and especially good when upscaling 1080 BD's to 4K. I would venture to guess that 95%+ of consumers would find this PJ praise worthy. Obviously, there are a few who are esoteric fringe fanatics who nit pick and find fault with everything in life!


----------



## gene4ht

doors.sl said:


> Hi!
> I own an Epson 5040ub and I`m having problems with Lens Memory.
> When i change the Lens Memory for 16:9 screen to 2:35:1 screen, the new recall its imprecise.
> I already tried to record the Memory of the lenses in different ways, but always that I read a new lens memory, different from the current, the Reading is inaccurate.
> 
> Does anyone have the same problem?
> Managed to solve?
> 
> thanks!


See this post...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-149.html#post49331585


----------



## tuckerpc389

Dave Harper said:


> @*tuckerpc389* , Have you tried my HarperVision HDR on SDR settings for HDR content? It helps with the darkness you mentioned but maintains the wide color gamut filter.
> 
> The link with settings is just below my signature here.


I have not yet Dave, but plan on trying them this weekend. I appreciate you taking the time to share those with myself and everyone else. I appreciate all those who share settings and information and take the time to answer questions from other members. Too often it seems many get into ugly, vitriolic-filled back and forths. I myself love and enjoy this hobby and appreciate all the knowledge others like yourself share, and the assistance given to others who are themselves trying to learn and enjoy this hobby. Would love to see more positivity and patience displayed from others on here. I consider myself blessed to afford all these toys and electronics we all are into and realize that while many of us are splitting hairs on hdmi standards and pixel-counts, many in the rest of the world are trying to find basic food and shelter. Not trying to rant or preach, just saying. Keep it all in perspective, even if it's pixel-shifted lol.


----------



## doors.sl

gene4ht said:


> See this post...


Thanks!!
I will try this, I hope it solves my problem.
Is it possible to update the firmware of this device via the Network or via USB only?


----------



## robc1976

My calibrator told me to use my 1080P calibration file for xbox 1s even though my projector says its 4K resolution because its still SDR 709 color space. Said to also use 1080P file for 1080P bluray even if it is upscaled to 4K because it's still use's 709 color space. Only time I should use the 4K SDR file is for a game or movie that is 4K but NON HDR.

Can someone please confirm this?

Dave harper?


----------



## gene4ht

doors.sl said:


> Thanks!!
> I will try this, I hope it solves my problem.
> *Is it possible to update the firmware of this device via the Network or via USB only?*


Although Epson utilizes both methods, the current 5040 FW update (1.09/1.04) appears to be USB only.

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> My calibrator told me to use my 1080P calibration file for xbox 1s even though my projector says its 4K resolution because its still SDR 709 color space. Said to also use 1080P file for 1080P bluray even if it is upscaled to 4K because it's still use's 709 color space. Only time I should use the 4K SDR file is for a game or movie that is 4K but NON HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone please confirm this?
> 
> 
> 
> Dave harper?



I do find that to be relatively true too. As long as the only thing that changes is the resolution. If it is SDR rec709 then the calibrated settings should be extremely similar. Once you throw in things like HDR and bt2020 or P3 colors then it would be quite different. 

I'm thinking your calibrator used SDR but with bt2020 for that "4K SDR" calibration he made. That's why he says not to use it for bt709 signals. 

I would say "if" he comes back or someone has someone coming initially, then maybe it's worth getting one for 1080 SDR bt709 and one for UHD, but it's not worth the minute difference to pay to have him come again, unless you also need a tune up.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> @tuckerpc389, Have you tried my HarperVision HDR on SDR settings for HDR content? It helps with the darkness you mentioned but maintains the wide color gamut filter.
> 
> The link with settings is just below my signature here.


 its the holy Grail of settings


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I do find that to be relatively true too. As long as the only thing that changes is the resolution. If it is SDR rec709 then the calibrated settings should be extremely similar. Once you throw in things like HDR and bt2020 or P3 colors then it would be quite different.
> 
> I'm thinking your calibrator used SDR but with bt2020 for that "4K SDR" calibration he made. That's why he says not to use it for bt709 signals.
> 
> I would say "if" he comes back or someone has someone coming initially, then maybe it's worth getting one for 1080 SDR bt709 and one for UHD, but it's not worth the minute difference to pay to have him come again, unless you also need a tune up.


 thank you Dave, here is what he did today

1080P 709
4K SDR 2020
Harper vision uhd hdr to SDR 2020

He was very impressed with black level detail, he cleaned up the Gray scale andb made someb minor adjustments to your gamma curve.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> its the holy Grail of settings


You're hilarious! 




robc1976 said:


> thank you Dave, here is what he did today
> 
> 1080P 709
> 4K SDR 2020
> Harper vision uhd hdr to SDR 2020
> 
> He was very impressed with black level detail, he cleaned up the Gray scale and made some minor adjustments to your gamma curve.


That is so awesome! Send me over his tweaked gamma settings. I would love to see them! I am glad he customized them for your particular environment. That is what my settings were designed to do, to get you in the ballpark and then your personalized tweaks applied.

He didn't set you up with 4K SDR rec709? So you're using the 1080p 709 one, correct? That is what I would do too.


----------



## aaranddeeman

tuckerpc389 said:


> Wanted to give my .02 to this thread since I recently purchased the Epson 5040ub. I upgraded from a Benq 1085ST to this projector. I am running it with a 35ft Bluerigger HMI cable from amazon for those that questioned distances, brands etc and I have had no issues whatsoever with audio/video 4k etc. My screen is standard 106 inch 1:1 white from Silver ticket. I am using an oppo udp-203 for UHD blu ray disks and regular blu ray disks, and an Onkyo tx-nr3030 for my receiver. First like others have mentioned, the projector is HUGE. It is rather loud on high power settings, but on medium and low you can barely hear it at all. I was able to relatively quickly dial in the lens position etc with little to no effort on my part since it's done via the remote. After tinkering with other user's settings they've posted on here, I settled into my own settings over a few hours of viewing and making changes. I found I preferred Bright Cinema setting, 4k enhancement preset 4, power medium. These seemed to produce the best picture in my environment, which is light controlled and only used for movies/games in a dedicated viewing room. Now too many people get in these long-winded diatribe, tangent-filled debates over the whole "faux-K" aspect of the pixel shifting projectors and several other brands costing triple. I however, and those who have viewed this projector in my environment, found the picture to be pretty amazing. I am more than happy with faux-k. Though I don't think you can realistically debate the upper echelon sony and jvc projectors not being better than this.However having seen a few in person, they aren't $7K-15K better IMO. So for the price point and value/bang for the buck, I would think these Epson's will be hard to beat for quite awhile. I have absolutely no buyers remorse and have had no issues so far with anything. I am admittedly using a standard ps4 and xbox one, but using the Oppo udp-203 with no problems. I did notice the whole HDR is too dim issue others have mentioned. I tried the settings, but realized I preferred it off and a brighter, punchier picture myself. So far what it's worth, if you are on the fence about this projector I highly recommend it myself. The picture with 4k material, and "4k enhanced" 1080p material looks absolutely amazing to me.


And where the 4k shines on this projector is

1. Harpervison settings (Digital Cinema HDR to SDR)
or 
oledurt settings (Bright Cinema HDR)

2. Desserts episode from Planet earth II 4k

Look at the fur on those close shots of the lions. 

You can count the hair, literally..


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> You're hilarious!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is so awesome! Send me over his tweaked gamma settings. I would love to see them! I am glad he customized them for your particular environment. That is what my settings were designed to do, to get you in the ballpark and then your personalized tweaks applied.
> 
> He didn't set you up with 4K SDR rec709? So you're using the 1080p 709 one, correct? That is what I would do too.


I will send them over, he didn't mess with color to much, he had a reason but i forgot what it was lol! something about clipping? 

All I know is it is jaw dropping.

I may have him do 4K SDR 709


----------



## hnupe

gene4ht said:


> Although Epson utilizes both methods, the current 5040 FW update (1.09/1.04) appears to be USB only.
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


Can anyone tell what the firmware does?


----------



## impetigo

gnolivos said:


> Just move it well away from your final intended position. Then move the image in ONE direction only vertically. And then in ONE direction horizontally. Make sure more than 10 clicks are needed. Done.


So I redid all my lens shift memory last night and so far it does seem that it is more accurate now. For the "10 clicks" part, does it actually have to be 10 or more consecutive individual clicks up to the final click, or can you hold down the direction to get close to the desired spot then just click a few times to get to the exact spot you want? Just to be safe I ended up clicking individually. 

Also, does this rule of thumb/guideline also include zoom and focus? That is, when setting up a particular lens shift memory that requires zooming in or out, that you do it only in one "direction" (i.e. not overshoot and then go in the opposite direction to fine tune)? The same thing with focus. It's harder follow the rule of thumb with both focus and zoom I feel because the focus is so subtle and the zoom is so slow if you use individual clicks rather than hold down. 

Furthermore, does the focus get saved with lens position memory? Zoom has to of course but not sure if focus does as well, although it obviously should as well as zooming in/out can affect the fine focus.


----------



## Oledurt

Sorry to crash the party but here are my settings for HDR in their entirety...Enjoy.

Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright

Brightness = 50
Contrast = 49
Color Saturation = 50
Tint = 50
Color Temp = 4
Skin Tone = 4
Offset R = 50
Offser G = 50
Offset B = 51
Gain R = 50
Gain G = 50
Gain B = 43

Power Consumption = Medium

RGBCMY

R 53,50,50
G 40,94,27
B 61,49,47
C 59,46,44
M 62,50,50
Y 37,50,48

Auto Iris = Off
Epson Super White = Off
Lens Iris = 0
Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0


Your welcome...






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> Sorry to crash the party but here are my settings for HDR in their entirety...Enjoy.
> 
> Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
> 
> Brightness = 50
> Contrast = 49
> Color Saturation = 50
> Tint = 50
> Color Temp = 4
> Skin Tone = 4
> Offset R = 50
> Offser G = 50
> Offset B = 51
> Gain R = 50
> Gain G = 50
> Gain B = 43
> 
> Power Consumption = Medium
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 53,50,50
> G 40,94,27
> B 61,49,47
> C 59,46,44
> M 62,50,50
> Y 37,50,48
> 
> Auto Iris = Off
> Epson Super White = Off
> Lens Iris = 0
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0
> 
> 
> Your welcome...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 sorry??? NO!. Thankv you for taking the time to do this.


----------



## robc1976

Can someone chime in here? On xbox 1s I have the following options

Color depth 

24 bits per pixel 8 bit
30 bits per pixel 10 bit
36 bits per pixel 12 bit

I am guessing 8 bit since projector can only support max of 10 bit I believe.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> @tuckerpc389, Have you tried my HarperVision HDR on SDR settings for HDR content? It helps with the darkness you mentioned but maintains the wide color gamut filter.
> 
> The link with settings is just below my signature here.


Dave, do you have epson super white on or off?


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> Sorry to crash the party but here are my settings for HDR in their entirety...Enjoy.
> 
> Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
> 
> Brightness = 50
> Contrast = 49
> Color Saturation = 50
> Tint = 50
> Color Temp = 4
> Skin Tone = 4
> Offset R = 50
> Offser G = 50
> Offset B = 51
> Gain R = 50
> Gain G = 50
> Gain B = 43
> 
> Power Consumption = Medium
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 53,50,50
> G 40,94,27
> B 61,49,47
> C 59,46,44
> M 62,50,50
> Y 37,50,48
> 
> Auto Iris = Off
> Epson Super White = Off
> Lens Iris = 0
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0
> 
> Your welcome...
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





robc1976 said:


> sorry??? NO!. Thankv you for taking the time to do this.



Exactly! Your curves and settings have been awesome Oledurt! I just wish I sill had the 5040 here to check them out.



robc1976 said:


> Dave, do you have epson super white on or off?



OFF


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Exactly! Your curves and settings have been awesome Oledurt! I just wish I sill had the 5040 here to check them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OFF


 oh man, he has it on, should I leave it off? Will that hurt the calibration?

Edit: its off


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> oh man, he has it on, should I leave it off? Will that hurt the calibration?
> 
> Edit: its off


Most calibrators I have spoken to leave superwhite ON, I do myself for rec709 but and 3D, when it comes to UHD/HDR though Its Off.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Most calibrators I have spoken to leave superwhite ON, I do myself for rec709 but and 3D, when it comes to UHD/HDR though I pits Off.[bQUOTE]exactly what he did, you may be able to tell me this why is it suggested to turn off YCC in xbox 1s again?. something about better color?


----------



## john barlow

Oledurt said:


> Sorry to crash the party but here are my settings for HDR in their entirety...Enjoy.
> 
> Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
> 
> Brightness = 50
> Contrast = 49
> Color Saturation = 50
> Tint = 50
> Color Temp = 4
> Skin Tone = 4
> Offset R = 50
> Offser G = 50
> Offset B = 51
> Gain R = 50
> Gain G = 50
> Gain B = 43
> 
> Power Consumption = Medium
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 53,50,50
> G 40,94,27
> B 61,49,47
> C 59,46,44
> M 62,50,50
> Y 37,50,48
> 
> Auto Iris = Off
> Epson Super White = Off
> Lens Iris = 0
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0
> 
> 
> Your welcome...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks, I'm going to try your settings after I finally install the firmware upgrade. I was hoping one of the more astute owners here would be able to flesh out what improvements I can expect. It would be nice to know what to look for with the firmware. The only thing I remember is someone said if you set HDR to auto that info screen will show HDR mode 1. That's great but, is that all that they added with this update?


----------



## DavidHir

Does the 5040 have a manual iris? I am considering one, but the manual seems to indicate only the 6040 has it. It's something I will need in my set-up.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Exactly! Your curves and settings have been awesome Oledurt! I just wish I sill had the 5040 here to check them out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OFF


 Dave, maybe your will no answer to this,

I have these choices, default is 8bit

Color depth 

24 bits per pixel 8 bit
30 bits per pixel 10 bit
36 bits per pixel 12 bit

I am guessing 8 bit since projector can only support max of 10 bit I believe.


----------



## ac388

Thanks. Will definitely try it out this weekend. 




Oledurt said:


> Sorry to crash the party but here are my settings for HDR in their entirety...Enjoy.
> 
> Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
> 
> Brightness = 50
> Contrast = 49
> Color Saturation = 50
> Tint = 50
> Color Temp = 4
> Skin Tone = 4
> Offset R = 50
> Offser G = 50
> Offset B = 51
> Gain R = 50
> Gain G = 50
> Gain B = 43
> 
> Power Consumption = Medium
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 53,50,50
> G 40,94,27
> B 61,49,47
> C 59,46,44
> M 62,50,50
> Y 37,50,48
> 
> Auto Iris = Off
> Epson Super White = Off
> Lens Iris = 0
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0
> 
> 
> Your welcome...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## hnupe

*Silly HDR Question*



ac388 said:


> Thanks. Will definitely try it out this weekend.


When people refer to HDR Setting is that a reference to playing 4K movies or for regular TV like DIRECTV?

Thanks


----------



## ac388

That's a setting on your TV or projector for playing back 4K HDR discs or files or even other media suppliers ,like Netflix etc.. But those you found in this link are only for 5040/6040.


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> Sorry to crash the party but here are my settings for HDR in their entirety...Enjoy.
> 
> Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
> 
> Brightness = 50
> Contrast = 49
> Color Saturation = 50
> Tint = 50
> Color Temp = 4
> Skin Tone = 4
> Offset R = 50
> Offser G = 50
> Offset B = 51
> Gain R = 50
> Gain G = 50
> Gain B = 43
> 
> Power Consumption = Medium
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 53,50,50
> G 40,94,27
> B 61,49,47
> C 59,46,44
> M 62,50,50
> Y 37,50,48
> 
> Auto Iris = Off
> Epson Super White = Off
> Lens Iris = 0
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0
> 
> 
> Your welcome...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 question, it says HDR1 auto bright, I can only choose one or the other auto bright or HDR1. Wich do I choose?


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> question, it says HDR1 auto bright, I can only choose one or the other auto bright or HDR1. Wich do I choose?




They are the same just use auto bright


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> They are the same just use auto bright
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 just to be sure, this is in signal menu, then under "dynamic range" setting correct?


----------



## Oledurt

yep


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

hnupe said:


> Can anyone tell what the firmware does?





john barlow said:


> Thanks, I'm going to try your settings after I finally install the firmware upgrade. I was hoping one of the more astute owners here would be able to flesh out what improvements I can expect. It would be nice to know what to look for with the firmware. The only thing I remember is someone said if you set HDR to auto that info screen will show HDR mode 1. That's great but, is that all that they added with this update?


AFAIK there is no...nor have I seen...formal/official Epson FW update logs or any 1.09/1.04 descriptive information for the 5040/6040. Like @john barlow indicated, my understanding is also limited to anecdotal information I gleened from these threads basically saying that HDR Auto will default to HDR mode 1 instead of HDR mode 2 when HDR content is detected...presumably to improve brightness.


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> panman40 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Most calibrators I have spoken to leave superwhite ON, I do myself for rec709 but and 3D, when it comes to UHD/HDR though I pits Off.[bQUOTE]exactly what he did, you may be able to tell me this why is it suggested to turn off YCC in xbox 1s again?. something about better color?
> 
> 
> 
> Really sorry I don't know anything about the Xbox or gaming consoles as Im not really into gaming
Click to expand...


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Dave, maybe your will no answer to this,
> 
> I have these choices, default is 8bit
> 
> Color depth
> 
> 24 bits per pixel 8 bit
> 30 bits per pixel 10 bit
> 36 bits per pixel 12 bit
> 
> I am guessing 8 bit since projector can only support max of 10 bit I believe.


Well if the max is 10 bit, then use 10 bit. It is more dependent on the total bandwidth than any one setting like the bit depth. For example, it may work fine with 4K 24p 4:2:0 BT2020 HDR 10 bit, but if you go to 60p or 4:2:2, then it could be too much and you would have to drop down to 8 bit for it to work. Here's a chart that shows the bandwidth limits and what can be sent with them:


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Well if the max is 10 bit, then use 10 bit. It is more dependent on the total bandwidth than any one setting like the bit depth. For example, it may work fine with 4K 24p 4:2:0 BT2020 HDR 10 bit, but if you go to 60p or 4:2:2, then it could be too much and you would have to drop down to 8 bit for it to work. Here's a chart that shows the bandwidth limits and what can be sent with them:


 awesome Dave! 

Also when you adjust focus is that saved to the memory of thatc selection?. I would think it is because when honingl going from 240.1 to 16:9 there is a lot of zooming involved that would interfere with focusing.


----------



## Dave Harper

I don't think it is actually


----------



## jaychatbonneau

Is the lens on the 5040ub relatively flat and large? Also, how would you rate its 3D performance? Is there much flicker? I want to buy one but I live in China and the people at the home theater market will not even take one out of a box, let alone demo it.


----------



## Jameshtx

Hey everyone

Just curious what you got your settings at for blu ray movies since Harpervision is for movies in 4k uhd?? All comments and feedback are absolutely welcomed

James fr Houston Tx


----------



## Jameshtx

Oledurt said:


> Sorry to crash the party but here are my settings for HDR in their entirety...Enjoy.
> 
> Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
> 
> Brightness = 50
> Contrast = 49
> Color Saturation = 50
> Tint = 50
> Color Temp = 4
> Skin Tone = 4
> Offset R = 50
> Offser G = 50
> Offset B = 51
> Gain R = 50
> Gain G = 50
> Gain B = 43
> 
> Power Consumption = Medium
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 53,50,50
> G 40,94,27
> B 61,49,47
> C 59,46,44
> M 62,50,50
> Y 37,50,48
> 
> Auto Iris = Off
> Epson Super White = Off
> Lens Iris = 0
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0
> 
> 
> Your welcome...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Oledurt,

Can these settings be used for blu ray and 4k movies with hdr? Does anyone else know? thanks


----------



## Oledurt

Jameshtx said:


> Oledurt,
> 
> 
> 
> Can these settings be used for blu ray and 4k movies with hdr? Does anyone else know? thanks




These are my settings for 4k UHD discs.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ht guy

Oledurt said:


> Sorry to crash the party but here are my settings for HDR in their entirety...Enjoy.
> 
> Bright Cinema...
> 
> ...to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0
> 
> Your welcome...
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Wow. Fantastic.

Thank-you!


----------



## ht guy

Jameshtx said:


> Hey everyone
> 
> Just curious what you got your settings at for blu ray movies since Harpervision is for movies in 4k uhd?? All comments and feedback are absolutely welcomed
> 
> James fr Houston Tx


Hey James, here's a set from panman40 from across the pond.


----------



## Jameshtx

ht guy said:


> Hey James, here's a set from panman40 from across the pond.


Thanks ht


----------



## spirithockey79

robc1976 said:


> awesome Dave!
> 
> 
> 
> Also when you adjust focus is that saved to the memory of thatc selection?. I would think it is because when honingl going from 240.1 to 16:9 there is a lot of zooming involved that would interfere with focusing.




Yes, your lens shift, zoom, and focus are all saved to the lens memory position. I have a 2.35 screen and change quite a bit and my focus never needs to be adjusted. I checked when I set these, as to your point the zooming will throw off the focus.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

spirithockey79 said:


> Yes, your lens shift, zoom, and focus are all saved to the lens memory position. I have a 2.35 screen and change quite a bit and my focus never needs to be adjusted. I checked when I set these, as to your point the zooming will throw off the focus.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 thank you! that is why my xbox 16:9 looks better than my 2.39 lol!


----------



## robc1976

Can somebody here tell my why it is suggested to disable ycc in xbox? I think with ycc on itv actually may look better.


----------



## panman40

Jameshtx said:


> Thanks ht


Hi James, I have added a slight adjustment to my Natural settings for gamma which is Custom gamma - with colour tone 2 set to +2, all the rest at 0. It helps pick out a little bit more shadow detail in dark scenes. When I finally get around to getting the meter out I will post back with full custom gamma settings for my Natural settings for rec709.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Hi James, I have added a slight adjustment to my Natural settings for gamma which is Custom gamma - with colour tone 2 set to +2, all the rest at 0. It helps pick out a little bit more shadow detail in dark scenes. When I finally get around to getting the meter out I will post back with full custom gamma settings for my Natural settings for rec709.


 I have my display calibrated in natural 709 could I use this custom gamma?


----------



## robc1976

I have "image processing" set to "fine", somebody suggested I set this to fast?


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> I have "image processing" set to "fine", somebody suggested I set this to fast?


I've experimented a lot with this and it's best left to fine, otherwise it can cause some deinterlacing issues, however if I'm watching a particularly fast paced 3D movie I sometimes select Fast which can help a little with the less than stellar motion.


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> I have my display calibrated in natural 709 could I use this custom gamma?


If your calibrator has input a custom gamma I wouldn't alter it. If he's left it at 0 or -1 gamma you can try this, all it does is raise the shadow detail slightly for dark scenes using that +2 on point 2 and it's what I'm using at the moment.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> If your calibrator has input a custom gamma I wouldn't alter it. If he's left it at 0 or -1 gamma you can try this, all it does is raise the shadow detail slightly for dark scenes using that +2 on point 2 and it's what I'm using at the moment.


He didn't, its at "0", the colors are great but a bit more shadow detail would be great. In my game I noticed a haze in dark areas, this could also be the game. So +2/on point 2 of gamma curve? So select "custom gamma", go to point 2 and raise +2 and leave everything else alone?

Is your room dark?. Mine is completely dark with black walls if that matters?


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> I've experimented a lot with this and it's best left to fine, otherwise it can cause some deinterlacing issues, however if I'm watching a particularly fast paced 3D movie I sometimes select Fast which can help a little with the less than stellar motion.


 this is for gaming he suggested this for, does that matter?


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> He didn't, its at "0", the colors are great but a bit more shadow detail would be great. In my game I noticed a haze in dark areas, this could also be the game. So +2/on point 2 of gamma curve? So select "custom gamma", go to point 2 and raise +2 and leave everything else alone?


Yep that's it, if you pause a darkish image and adjust point 2 up and down you can get an idea of what it's doing, I wouldn't go above +3 though.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Yep that's it, if you pause a darkish image and adjust point 2 up and down you can get an idea of what it's doing, I wouldn't go above +3 though.


 so everything at 0 except point 2 correct? Going to try this!


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> this is for gaming he suggested this for, does that matter?


Ahh in that case it's ok to use fast as it will improve gaming lag.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Ahh in that case it's ok to use fast as it will improve gaming lag.


 awesome info!


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> awesome info!


Well that's what I was told anyway lol. I don't game myself.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Well that's what I was told anyway lol. I don't game myself.


 cant hurt to try!


----------



## Dave Harper

Fine is for movies and TV, Fast is for reducing input lag for gaming.


----------



## mikecoscia

So just about wrapping up my theater build and I started to play around with the projector settings. Is there a trick to the panel alignment? I messed around with it and I can't seem to get them perfectly align, there is always a bit of light bleed on either side of the lines. The pixels aren't razor sharp, they are a hair blurry. Can only tell when you are a few inches from the screen though. Just curious if I am missing something, thanks!


----------



## jesped2

Quick question: which 3D glasses are supposedly the best? the Epson ELPGS03?


----------



## Craig Peer

Just a reminder for all of you procrastinators out there - the current $200.00 off Epson 5040ub(e) sale ends on the 24th !


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Fine is for movies and TV, Fast is for reducing input lag for gaming.


Thanks Dave!


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Hi James, I have added a slight adjustment to my Natural settings for gamma which is Custom gamma - with colour tone 2 set to +2, all the rest at 0. It helps pick out a little bit more shadow detail in dark scenes. When I finally get around to getting the meter out I will post back with full custom gamma settings for my Natural settings for rec709.


 when you get that custom gamma please post it, very interested in.


----------



## inspector

jesped2 said:


> Quick question: which 3D glasses are supposedly the best? the Epson ELPGS03?


Yes, Epson glasses for your Epson PJ. There are others that will work, but you'll have to do a search in this thread.


----------



## ac388

*Oledurt settings*

Tried it last night n it did not work for me, both color n contrast is off, plus putting some grain on the picture. After calibrating it a bit, it's better but not as fit as HV in my setup. Further thinking, I remember Dave is using the Stewart 1.3 gain screen which is same as mine, n that maybe the reason why. 
My result is by no mean to say which setting is better, but rather different setup need different settings.




ac388 said:


> Thanks. Will definitely try it out this weekend.


----------



## aaranddeeman

ac388 said:


> Tried it last night n it did not work for me, both color n contrast is off, plus putting some grain on the picture. After calibrating it a bit, it's better but not as fit as HV in my setup. Further thinking, I remember Dave is using the Stewart 1.3 gain screen which is same as mine, n that maybe the reason why.
> My result is by no mean to say which setting is better, but rather different setup need different settings.


With that setting, please make sure

- you are playing UHD HDR disk
- PJ is receiving HDR
- Your Dynamic Range on PJ is set to either Auto Bright or HDR 1

I have a suspicion that you actually were playing either the SDR content or the PJ was forced to SDR (from you earlier Harpervision setting may be..)


----------



## ac388

Thanks for your pointers. Yes, I am using UHD discs ... Lala Land n Sully. On HDR n I do remember to change SDR/HDR manually everytime I select a different memorized mode. 
As for Auto Bright, it was saved on the memorized Oledurt setting.

Maybe I should tried it again with Planet earth 2 this weekend which is my reference disk. By the way, I am using the Oppo 203.




aaranddeeman said:


> With that setting, please make sure
> 
> - you are playing UHD HDR disk
> - PJ is receiving HDR
> - Your Dynamic Range on PJ is set to either Auto Bright or HDR 1
> 
> I have a suspicion that you actually were playing either the SDR content or the PJ was forced to SDR (from you earlier Harpervision setting may be..)


----------



## panman40

ac388 said:


> Thanks for your pointers. Yes, I am using UHD discs ... Lala Land n Sully. On HDR n I do remember to change SDR/HDR manually everytime I select a different memorized mode.
> As for Auto Bright, it was saved on the memorized Oledurt setting.
> 
> Maybe I should tried it again with Planet earth 2 this weekend which is my reference disk. By the way, I am using the Oppo 203.


you can't save all settings to a memory and I think auto bright or hdr1/2 etc is one of them. 
I've been campaigning to Epson on thier Facebook page to implement UHD/HDR auto detection for your chosen picture mode/sub settings in the same way the Epson auto detects 3D.


----------



## panman40

jesped2 said:


> Quick question: which 3D glasses are supposedly the best? the Epson ELPGS03?


I use these, very comfy once the legs have been adjusted slightly, they need to be handled carefully I haven't tried the Epson glasses yet.

https://www.amazon.com/XPAND-X105-R...id=1498193721&sr=8-1&keywords=Xpand+x105+lite


----------



## panman40

inspector said:


> Yes, Epson glasses for your Epson PJ. There are others that will work, but you'll have to do a search in this thread.


Hi John, I've heard the Epson glasses can be pretty uncomfortable especially on top of prescription glasses. How do you find them ?.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Wow 302 pages... I recall reading complaints some people having with 3D ghosting and that Epson was looking into it. Did anything ever become of that such as a firmware update? If I recall some people who had earlier Epson projectors (e.g., 5010) said the ghosting on the 5040/6040 was much worse.


----------



## panman40

WynsWrld98 said:


> Wow 302 pages... I recall reading complaints some people having with 3D ghosting and that Epson was looking into it. Did anything ever become of that such as a firmware update? If I recall some people who had earlier Epson projectors (e.g., 5010) said the ghosting on the 5040/6040 was much worse.


No firmware for 3D ghosting, a few owners sent theirs back to Epson for replacements and got better units with less ghosting, I've heard nothing since then.


----------



## aaranddeeman

ac388 said:


> Thanks for your pointers. Yes, I am using UHD discs ... Lala Land n Sully. On HDR n I do remember to change SDR/HDR manually everytime I select a different memorized mode.
> As for Auto Bright, it was saved on the memorized Oledurt setting.
> 
> Maybe I should tried it again with Planet earth 2 this weekend which is my reference disk. By the way, I am using the Oppo 203.


As @panman40 pointed out. The DR setting is not part of the memory.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

panman40 said:


> I use these, very comfy once the legs have been adjusted slightly, they need to be handled carefully I haven't tried the Epson glasses yet.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/XPAND-X105-R...id=1498193721&sr=8-1&keywords=Xpand+x105+lite


I've read some posts that they introduce ghosting. Can you comment on that?

On the other hand, glasses from Epson are the best quality and the cost is similar to x-pand. 

For my setup I bought two pairs of SSG5100GB (battery) two pairs of SSG3300GR (re-chargable) and 2 pair of Epson's ELPGS03.
Samsung glasses are built with cheap plastic and they are bit small for 100+ screen size but they work just fine. 
You get what you pay for.



WynsWrld98 said:


> Wow 302 pages... I recall reading complaints some people having with 3D ghosting and that Epson was looking into it. Did anything ever become of that such as a firmware update? If I recall some people who had earlier Epson projectors (e.g., 5010) said the ghosting on the 5040/6040 was much worse.


Ghosting can be reduced significantly with the settings (3d dynamic mode, 3d brightness: LOW, lamp mode: HIGH, fast/fine mode, Frame Interpolation: LOW or OFF - all of them have impact on perceived ghosting. 3d glasses play some role here too  Depends also on the movie.


----------



## panman40

MartyMcFlyy said:


> I've read some posts that they introduce ghosting. Can you comment on that?
> 
> On the other hand, glasses from Epson are the best quality and the cost is similar to x-pand.
> 
> For my setup I bought two pairs of SSG5100GB (battery) two pairs of SSG3300GR (re-chargable) and 2 pair of Epson's ELPGS03.
> Samsung glasses are built with cheap plastic and they are bit small for 100+ screen size but they work just fine.
> You get what you pay for.
> 
> 
> 
> Ghosting can be reduced significantly with the settings (3d dynamic mode, 3d brightness: LOW, lamp mode: HIGH, fast/fine mode, Frame Interpolation: LOW or OFF - all of them have impact on perceived ghosting. 3d glasses play some role here too  Depends also on the movie.


No more or less than any other glasses no, I have tried many models, my other favorite for solid performance and durability is the Samsung ssg3100. 
I get some ghosting on the 6040 but glasses brightness low helps with that as you would expect.


----------



## WynsWrld98

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Ghosting can be reduced significantly with the settings (3d dynamic mode, 3d brightness: LOW, lamp mode: HIGH, fast/fine mode, Frame Interpolation: LOW or OFF - all of them have impact on perceived ghosting. 3d glasses play some role here too  Depends also on the movie.


That's true with any projector but am more curious about people who upgraded from earlier gen Epson projectors to 5040/6040 and are saying ghosting is increased in 3D. I thought somewhere in here it said Epson was working on a fix but perhaps there is some manufacturing inconsistency causing it in some projectors but not others. I have the 5030 and ghosting is rarely an issue in 3D and I push the settings above more to the limits such as 3D brightness high.

My 5030's warranty is running out 11/2017 (extended 1 year due to AMEX so will be 3 years old), have my eye on the 5040 or perhaps a 5050 announced at CEDIA in September.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

WynsWrld98 said:


> That's true with any projector but am more curious about people who upgraded from earlier gen Epson projectors to 5040/6040 and are saying ghosting is increased in 3D. I thought somewhere in here it said Epson was working on a fix but perhaps there is some manufacturing inconsistency causing it in some projectors but not others. I have the 5030 and ghosting is rarely an issue in 3D and I push the settings above more to the limits such as 3D brightness high.


don't know about comparison vs previous Epson 3d models.
6040ub is a bright projector so even on 3d brightness low setting, there will be still plenty of brightness in high lamp mode.
I can only tell you my thoughts based on the comparison with my ex'DLP 3d projector (which is considered as one of the best tech for 3d).


----------



## panman40

WynsWrld98 said:


> That's true with any projector but am more curious about people who upgraded from earlier gen Epson projectors to 5040/6040 and are saying ghosting is increased in 3D. I thought somewhere in here it said Epson was working on a fix but perhaps there is some manufacturing inconsistency causing it in some projectors but not others. I have the 5030 and ghosting is rarely an issue in 3D and I push the settings above more to the limits such as 3D brightness high.
> 
> My 5030's warranty is running out 11/2017 (extended 1 year due to AMEX so will be 3 years old), have my eye on the 5040 or perhaps a 5050 announced at CEDIA in September.


A couple of owners on here had replacement units as I said and one guy " inspector" says his is now perfect re crosstalk.
I'm still waiting to hear back from Bob fermanek as he was going to have his replaced also due to crosstalk. So could be a bad batch I guess, I'm in the UK and bought my 6040 in January , I get crosstalk unless I use low glasses brightness, 
One thing that is certain is that 99.9% of crosstalk issues are down to the display and not the film.


----------



## cappy83

*Anyone have any thoughts on my picture quality issue?*

So I've had this projector for about 3 months and have never owned one before. Overall, I enjoy it(minus the 2 I've had to send back for dead pixels). But I can't seem to be satisfied with the picture quality on HD cable. I have Verizon Fios and think it could be the signal but Verizon is telling me no. I have a 65ks9000 Samsung downstairs and it looks amazing on Fios. The projector looks average at best.

The cables and everything are good but everything on my Xbox looks a million times better and I'm not even getting HDR on most and even stuff not in 4k looks better streaming. The channels look blurry and pixelated, skin tones look off and colors seem washed out no matter what I try. Anyone have any suggestions? My room is almost completely dark and painted well. I have a 120" screen and sit about 11 feet back. I thought I was to close(was 9 feet before and it helped a little) so I'm thinking about moving the seating back to 14 feet. Should 4k enhancement be on? Fios box is set to 1080p I know someone said it should be on 720 maybe. Any suggestions would be great or if anyone has settings for non 4k and HDR content I would love to see them. Haven't seen any in this thread. Really want to get this fixed for Football season!

I have tried bright, natural and cinema but can't get it locked in. Maybe another setting I'm missing? Thanks again!


----------



## sddp

panman40 said:


> Hi John, I've heard the Epson glasses can be pretty uncomfortable especially on top of prescription glasses. How do you find them ?.


I had made a post about this earlier this year. From Lens Crafters, I took my Epson glasses and had them make the prescription glasses to fit. With out a frame and used double sided 3M tape and cut the tape enough to fit around the top and bottom of the edges of the Epson 3D glasses and it works PERFECTLY. 2 birds with one stone.


----------



## john barlow

WynsWrld98 said:


> Wow 302 pages... I recall reading complaints some people having with 3D ghosting and that Epson was looking into it. Did anything ever become of that such as a firmware update? If I recall some people who had earlier Epson projectors (e.g., 5010) said the ghosting on the 5040/6040 was much worse.


I originally experienced some issues with Blu ray 3D until I took proactive steps to deal with it. Home Theater is a complex synergy and all components, including the brand of 3D glasses, settings and content can lead to pretty much trouble free 3D experience I am having about 99% of the time. Of my 140 and growing 3D library, the best rendered by my Oppo 203 player and the Epson 5040UB projector are on good terms right now. My favorite 3D Blu ray? Passengers 3D. The UHD disc is also stellar. Unfortunately, the better sounding immersive soundtrack isn't included on the 3D, so you must compromise on this otherwise demonstration quality film. It's my current reference. My personally favorite 3D glasses are the Valuevue Brand currently sold by vendors on Amazon. My spouse prefers the Samsung glasses. I find that with my eyeglasses underneath, the Valuevue are the most comfortable and after a good amount of 3D viewing, you forget they are on. Out of all the 3D presentations I've viewed on different projectors, the Epson 5040 has excellent brightness, which is necessary with large screen projection systems. I'm pretty pleased about it too.


----------



## panman40

sddp said:


> I had made a post about this earlier this year. From Lens Crafters, I took my Epson glasses and had them make the prescription glasses to fit. With out a frame and used double sided 3M tape and cut the tape enough to fit around the top and bottom of the edges of the Epson 3D glasses and it works PERFECTLY. 2 birds with one stone.


Yes I remember, I'm in the UK though and don't have lens crafters.


----------



## sddp

panman40 said:


> Yes I remember, I'm in the UK though and don't have lens crafters.



You might want to try different optometrist, one that makes glasses on their property and that does NOT send it out. Most if not all Lens Crafters in the US have a section in the back where they make the lens from scratch and you just choose the frame. The cool thing about these glasses is that the lens is fairly flat and not bent or oval. Just have to find one that is willing to work with you and I spoke/worked with a senior technician. Just make sure the ONLY option you get is scratch resistance, nothing else, no sun block, duel color changing, etc.

The UK must have store who make and sell prescription glasses, I've seen thousands of English folks who wear glasses on UK shows


----------



## atl999

I apologize if I am asking a question which has already been answered previously.

I have an HTPC connected to Pioneer SC-LX501 which connects to Epson 5040ub projector. The video card in my HTPC is Nvidia GeoForce GTX770 which successfully detects projector to receive 4K output.

For watching mkv or mp4 videos, I use PowerDVD 17. 

I am using 4k compatible HDMI (18gbps) everywhere (between my HTPC and AV receiver and from receiver to projector - although that is 50ft long wire)

However, I am having a very strange issue. Whenever I play any video, while audio starts playing but the screen blanks out and after a while, it would start showing video. I tried to downgrade the nvidia output to 1080p, still the same issue. I am a bit disappointed as not sure what needs to be changed.

Also, I hear click sound sometimes which is only when any new video is played.

Any suggestion on how to fix this issue?


----------



## rustolemite

Finally got my Epson 5040UB up and running the projector is amazing the 4K content is awesome I don't see how much better actual native 4K could be. 
I do have 2 problems using Eco mode and it's been running for about 9.5 hours now and has shut it self off about 3 times in the 4 hours. Anybody have any idea? I have it mounted on a shelf with sides but the top is open could it really be getting that hot? 
Also when switching sources on my Marantz I notice a single blue pixel in the up right corner.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> Yep that's it, if you pause a darkish image and adjust point 2 up and down you can get an idea of what it's doing, I wouldn't go above +3 though.


-1 gamma is best for some reason


----------



## burton14e7

atl999 said:


> I apologize if I am asking a question which has already been answered previously.
> 
> I have an HTPC connected to Pioneer SC-LX501 which connects to Epson 5040ub projector. The video card in my HTPC is Nvidia GeoForce GTX770 which successfully detects projector to receive 4K output.
> 
> For watching mkv or mp4 videos, I use PowerDVD 17.
> 
> I am using 4k compatible HDMI (18gbps) everywhere (between my HTPC and AV receiver and from receiver to projector - although that is 50ft long wire)
> 
> However, I am having a very strange issue. Whenever I play any video, while audio starts playing but the screen blanks out and after a while, it would start showing video. I tried to downgrade the nvidia output to 1080p, still the same issue. I am a bit disappointed as not sure what needs to be changed.
> 
> Also, I hear click sound sometimes which is only when any new video is played.
> 
> Any suggestion on how to fix this issue?


Sounds like it might be changing resolution even if maintaining 1080p but not completing the DHCP handshake and re-establishing the video feed. I could be wrong but that's what it sounds like to me. The receiver clicking could be the amps in the receiver turning off and or on when it does the handshake.


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> -1 gamma is best for some reason


Maybe you prefer a lower gamma then as that would probably measure around 2.4 ish, I personally prefer 2.2 to 2.3 gamma, all units will vary though and to be fair that's the main reason you would have an in house pro calibration rather than copying others settings


----------



## panman40

atl999 said:


> I apologize if I am asking a question which has already been answered previously.
> 
> I have an HTPC connected to Pioneer SC-LX501 which connects to Epson 5040ub projector. The video card in my HTPC is Nvidia GeoForce GTX770 which successfully detects projector to receive 4K output.
> 
> For watching mkv or mp4 videos, I use PowerDVD 17.
> 
> I am using 4k compatible HDMI (18gbps) everywhere (between my HTPC and AV receiver and from receiver to projector - although that is 50ft long wire)
> 
> However, I am having a very strange issue. Whenever I play any video, while audio starts playing but the screen blanks out and after a while, it would start showing video. I tried to downgrade the nvidia output to 1080p, still the same issue. I am a bit disappointed as not sure what needs to be changed.
> 
> Also, I hear click sound sometimes which is only when any new video is played.
> 
> Any suggestion on how to fix this issue?


At a guess I would say it's the 50ft cable struggling, the clicking your hearing when video comes back could be the Epson as there is a click sound when it latches onto a signal.


----------



## panman40

rustolemite said:


> Finally got my Epson 5040UB up and running the projector is amazing the 4K content is awesome I don't see how much better actual native 4K could be.
> I do have 2 problems using Eco mode and it's been running for about 9.5 hours now and has shut it self off about 3 times in the 4 hours. Anybody have any idea? I have it mounted on a shelf with sides but the top is open could it really be getting that hot?
> Also when switching sources on my Marantz I notice a single blue pixel in the up right corner.


I would be tempted to get it swapped out especially if it has a stuck/dead pixel. That with the random shutting down is enough to exchange.

I don't know how much room you have at the back and sides within your shelf but these units do get pretty hot, I know the intake and exhaust are at the front but I would still like to give it plenty of open air space if possible.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

rustolemite said:


> Finally got my Epson 5040UB up and running the projector is amazing the 4K content is awesome I don't see how much better actual native 4K could be.
> I do have 2 problems using Eco mode and it's been running for about 9.5 hours now and has shut it self off about 3 times in the 4 hours. Anybody have any idea? I have it mounted on a shelf with sides but the top is open could it really be getting that hot?
> Also when switching sources on my Marantz I notice a single blue pixel in the up right corner.


if you have such option try to use shorter and direct cable form your receiver to the Epson and connect your long cable from the receiver to the amp for sound only.

If it solves the problem you need shorter and/or better quality cable. With such long cables they should meet AWG22 specification.


----------



## panman40

sddp said:


> You might want to try different optometrist, one that makes glasses on their property and that does NOT send it out. Most if not all Lens Crafters in the US have a section in the back where they make the lens from scratch and you just choose the frame. The cool thing about these glasses is that the lens is fairly flat and not bent or oval. Just have to find one that is willing to work with you and I spoke/worked with a senior technician. Just make sure the ONLY option you get is scratch resistance, nothing else, no sun block, duel color changing, etc.
> 
> The UK must have store who make and sell prescription glasses, I've seen thousands of English folks who wear glasses on UK shows


Lol , so when you say you attached these lenses to the top and bottom frame with double side tape did you mean on the insides narrow edges with lens touching lens or sat on the outer part of the rim thus a small gap between the lenses ?.

Any chance of a couple of pictures ?,
Thanks.


----------



## sddp

panman40 said:


> Lol , so when you say you attached these lenses to the top and bottom frame with double side tape did you mean on the insides narrow edges with lens touching lens or sat on the outer part of the rim thus a small gap between the lenses ?.
> 
> Any chance of a couple of pictures ?,
> Thanks.


The prescription was actually made for the Xpand 105, when I took these Epson glasses in with my previous prescription (which that had on file from just over 2 years ago) they wanted to take a new exam which I found retarded since even if my sight changed the slightest I didn't care and they made it difficult to just use the same, some stupid lame law we have out here that you have to get a new prescription every 2 years or something. I really wanted both my Expand 105 and the new Epson glasses to have prescription lenses, so if one dies on me, I have a spare. ugh.

Anyways it fit in about %95 anyways. Here's the pics


----------



## panman40

sddp said:


> The prescription was actually made for the Xpand 105, when I took these Epson glasses in with my previous prescription (which that had on file from just over 2 years ago) they wanted to take a new exam which I found retarded since even if my sight changed the slightest I didn't care and they made it difficult to just use the same, some stupid lame law we have out here that you have to get a new prescription every 2 years or something. I really wanted both my Expand 105 and the new Epson glasses to have prescription lenses, so if one dies on me, I have a spare. ugh.
> 
> Anyways it fit in about %95 anyways. Here's the pics


Ahh I see thanks for the pics, we have a 2yr checkup in the uk but there's no pressure to buy new prescription at all, my eyesight is changing quickly now, I'm 51 and spend far to many hours looking at forums on a smartphone or iPad .

That looks pretty good, I think I'm going to try something similar. 

To save going back over the thread which glasses do you prefer performance and comfort wise ?, 105 Xpands or the Epson 03 ?.

Thanks.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Ok, received then watched 'The Great Wall' last night and have to agree with a lot of folks, it is stunning, visually and audibly. It's my new reference. Also, I didn't think the content was as bad as some thought. Really makes the 5040ub shine. I don't know what they did to this movie but yeah, very nice indeed.


----------



## panman40

Snoogleheimer said:


> Ok, received then watched 'The Great Wall' last night and have to agree with a lot of folks, it is stunning, visually and audibly. It's my new reference. Also, I didn't think the content was as bad as some thought. Really makes the 5040ub shine. I don't know what they did to this movie but yeah, very nice indeed.


Which version,2d , 3d or uhd ?. I'm going to watch the 3d later today.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

panman40 said:


> which version,2d , 3d or uhd ?. I'm going to watch the 3d later today.


uhd.


----------



## sduerden

I have been lurking on this thread for months. I have had the 5040 since Feb. and have it hooked up to an Xbox one S, Apple TV, Roku Premier +, and 4k DIRECTV all running through a Denon x1300. This is my first projector and I’ve been amazed. Yesterday I finally broke down and bought Magnificent Seven on 4k disc and played it with the Harpervisiom settings. All I can say is wow. Thanks Dave for sharing your setting and for sharing. That takes an already stunning picture to a whole new level. I will be buying 4k discs for my favorite movies from now on. Thanks to all for posing your settings and findings. I can’t imagine having this projector without all the settings help this board provides. I cannot imagine not having a projector after watching a movie on this amazing machine. Thanks again. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

panman40 said:


> I would be tempted to get it swapped out especially if it has a stuck/dead pixel. That with the random shutting down is enough to exchange.
> 
> I don't know how much room you have at the back and sides within your shelf but these units do get pretty hot, I know the intake and exhaust are at the front but I would still like to give it plenty of open air space if possible.


Going to see about sending it back and getting a new one from Best Buy. The top of the shelf is completely open and the sides are only about 3 inches high on the sides and there is about 2 inches on either side of the projector.
Also when I go into the Network setup the picture flickers gets brighter and darker while in the setup only does it on this part of the menu.


----------



## mhbernheim

How do I calculate throw distance for 92" screen ceiling mounted? The online calculators are a joke

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

mhbernheim said:


> The online calculators are a joke
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Then measure yourself first and then mount.


----------



## mhbernheim

What would the optimal distance be? I mean, the manual says 80,100,110, but doesnt talk avbout 92... is this a hit or miss thing?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

Well it has cut completely off about 7 times since I hooked it up yesterday and when it shuts there is no blinking light for the temp its just like somebody pulled the plug. It was plugged into a wall outlet but moving it to a floor model Panamax surge protector see if that was maybe the problem. Still sending it back already order another from Crutchfield.

Man I love the picture this thing puts out sure hope all this gets worked out with a new one.


----------



## rustolemite

Can I get some recommendations on a HDMI cable to go at least 40ft for this projector? Will be run along the floor.

Thanks.


----------



## sddp

panman40 said:


> Ahh I see thanks for the pics, we have a 2yr checkup in the uk but there's no pressure to buy new prescription at all, my eyesight is changing quickly now, I'm 51 and spend far to many hours looking at forums on a smartphone or iPad .
> 
> That looks pretty good, I think I'm going to try something similar.
> 
> To save going back over the thread which glasses do you prefer performance and comfort wise ?, 105 Xpands or the Epson 03 ?.
> 
> Thanks.


When I got the Epson I was with in the return window, so I did a back and forth test on the 105 vs Eps. Literally had both on flipping one up and the other over and did notice that the Eps was a tad sharper and clear (when I say tad, I mean one has to do it this way to really see the difference, for me at least). The Eps has a slight blue tint which gave it more 3D POP out and clarity and detail.

The 105 are slightly lighter and a bit more comfortable, but this is something that if you didn't do a test back and forth, you'd wouldn't notice and would get use to it. Someone else here did a VERY detailed shoot out on the top 3D glasses either last year or beg of this year and the Eps ranked as one of the top if not the top.


I do want both glasses to have the prescription lenses, so will be calling around smaller mom and pop shops and take the lenses alone and say I need another pair for a science project and that they won't be used to see. To avoid getting some stupid unnecessary exam again. My pres is VERY light..


----------



## Oledurt

anybody try my settings I posted earlier?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> anybody try my settings I posted earlier?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes I did, i tried to watch magnificent seven UHD/HDR tonight and swapping between your settings and Daves harpervision settings I still found the image hard going. Half way through I decided to have a mess around by eye as my wife decided to go onto bed. 

Well after 10 minutes of messing about I watched the second half and thought it looked amazing !. It's the happiest I've been with 4K HDR so far.
I took some screenshots of where I ended up so will try and post them shortly.


----------



## Duddits

Oledurt said:


> anybody try my settings I posted earlier?
> 
> I have tested them and they look very good . Thanks for posting them.
> I like the more "punch", in the picture, with the bright cinema mode.
> But do I miss the range that bt2020 (P3 filter) can do, when not using the cinema filter?


----------



## panman40

This is what I came up with whilst watching Magnificent seven 4K UHD blu Ray.

Bright Cinema Mode.

Dynamic range = Auto Bright

Superwhite = Off

Brightness = 50
Contrast = 43
Color Saturation = 50
Tint = 50
Sharpness =6
Color Temp = 4
Skin Tone = 4

Image enhancement =3

Offset R = 47
Offser G = 50
Offset B = 48
Gain R = 50
Gain G = 50
Gain B = 54

Power Consumption = Eco

Auto Iris = Off
Epson Super White = Off
Lens Iris = 0
Gamma +1


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> anybody try my settings I posted earlier?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Just to say I did not miss the P3 filter and subsequent WCG of cinema and digital cinema modes. I struggled a bit with shadow detail though like contrast was to high and brightness to low hence my messing around and gamma +1 setting, what I ended up with was really watchable with good detail in darker scenes, it remains to be seen though if my settings work out for other UHD blu Ray films lol.


----------



## jwhn

rustolemite said:


> Can I get some recommendations on a HDMI cable to go at least 40ft for this projector? Will be run along the floor.
> 
> Thanks.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSL9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has worked perfectly for me...


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> anybody try my settings I posted earlier?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hi, how do you find shadow detail in dark scenes with your bright cinema settings ?.


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> Hi, how do you find shadow detail in dark scenes with your bright cinema settings ?.


Contrast and shadow detail are really good in my room.


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> Contrast and shadow detail are really good in my room.


Nice, I had lots of 'pop' with your settings watching Mag seven but found it a bit to overpowering if that makes sense, once I chose gamma +1 I could instantly see a lot more detail in the black jackets and hats etc I then dropped to Eco lamp and reduced contrast a little and found the rest of the film very easy to watch but it still had decent contrast. I do find that HDR blu Rays can differ quite a lot though.
One things for sure though these epsons are really very good with 1080p blu Ray


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> Nice, I had lots of 'pop' with your settings watching Mag seven but found it a bit to overpowering if that makes sense, once I chose gamma +1 I could instantly see a lot more detail in the black jackets and hats etc I then dropped to Eco lamp and reduced contrast a little and found the rest of the film very easy to watch but it still had decent contrast. I do find that HDR blu Rays can differ quite a lot though.
> 
> One things for sure though these epsons are really very good with 1080p blu Ray




well you know these settings are tailored to my theater.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> well you know these settings are tailored to my theater.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes exactly, there will be variation from unit to unit also


----------



## Steven414

What HDMI cables are you guys using to play 4K blu-ray content? I'm playing on a samsung UHD player using 2.0 cables and the movies are playing fine and look good. But, when I fire it up I get a dialog box popping up on the screen that says, "The content will be played in HD because the display or the HDMI input does not support HDCP 2.2. Change the display or HDMI input and try again." 

What the heck does that mean? Do I need HDMI 2.2 cables?


----------



## panman40

Steven414 said:


> What HDMI cables are you guys using to play 4K blu-ray content? I'm playing on a samsung UHD player using 2.0 cables and the movies are playing fine and look good. But, when I fire it up I get a dialog box popping up on the screen that says, "The content will be played in HD because the display or the HDMI input does not support HDCP 2.2. Change the display or HDMI input and try again."
> 
> What the heck does that mean? Do I need HDMI 2.2 cables?


Just to be sure you have the HDMI cable plugged into HDMI 1 port on the Epson ?.


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys! I've asked this question before but I like to check in every couple months to see if this is possible yet. I was wondering if anyone has figured out how to watch native 4K content on the Epson 5040 and get FI to work with it. Not 4K enhancement, actual UHD discs that are native 4K. Wasn't sure if there was a certain blu-ray UHD player that could accomplish this yet. Really wish there was a way to get smooth motion while watching UHD movies. Maybe a possible firmware upgrade? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jaychatbonneau

panman40 said:


> No more or less than any other glasses no, I have tried many models, my other favorite for solid performance and durability is the Samsung ssg3100.
> I get some ghosting on the 6040 but glasses brightness low helps with that as you would expect.


I am a big fan of the 5150 Samsungs. They are light, comfortable, and work very well.


----------



## panman40

jaychatbonneau said:


> I am a big fan of the 5150 Samsungs. They are light, comfortable, and work very well.


That's one model of Samsung glasses I didn't get on with ( 5100) unless the 5150 is different, I'm thinking I really should try the Epson glasses.


----------



## jaychatbonneau

panman40 said:


> That's one model of Samsung glasses I didn't get on with ( 5100) unless the 5150 is different, I'm thinking I really should try the Epson glasses.


The 5150s are very different and work much better.


----------



## jaychatbonneau

How would you guys describe the quality of 3D from the 5040ub? Do you see flicker?


----------



## panman40

jaychatbonneau said:


> The 5150s are very different and work much better.


Just googled them and in the uk they appear to be identical.


----------



## jaychatbonneau

panman40 said:


> Just googled them and in the uk they appear to be identical.


Appear. The new model uses a different battery that is lighter and smaller and it creates a big difference in comfort.


----------



## panman40

jaychatbonneau said:


> The 5150s are very different and work much better.


And here the 5100.


----------



## panman40

jaychatbonneau said:


> Appear. The new model uses a different battery that is lighter and smaller and it creates a big difference in comfort.


Sorry I thought you said they were very different and work much better, so it's just the smaller lighter battery that makes them more comfortable?, nothing performance wise ?.


----------



## jaychatbonneau

panman40 said:


> Sorry I thought you said they were very different and work much better, so it's just the smaller lighter battery that makes them more comfortable?, nothing performance wise ?.


Less flicker, less crosstalk on the 5150 but dramatically reduced battery life. You get 70 hours out of the 5150s and twice as much or more out of the 5100s. 

I suggest reading the Amazon reviews on the US site as they are very in-depth and very numerous.


----------



## panman40

jaychatbonneau said:


> Less flicker, less crosstalk on the 5150 but dramatically reduced battery life. You get 70 hours out of the 5150s and twice as much or more out of the 5100s.
> 
> I suggest reading the Amazon reviews on the US site as they are very in-depth and very numerous.


Oh right, I will have a read.


----------



## panman40

jaychatbonneau said:


> How would you guys describe the quality of 3D from the 5040ub? Do you see flicker?


I have the 6040/TW9300 so can't comment on the other model but they should be similar. Unlike something like a plasma TV there is no detectable flicker on the Epson, it's not perfect though, sometimes motion can be a little poor and you will spot crosstalk at times. Using the Epson glasses brightness setting on low helps reduce it but obviously darkens the image more, I use medium lamp for 3D as high lamp is just plain to loud for my liking.


----------



## above1

*Pink bar on image.*

Has anyone experienced a pinkish band along any border of their screen with their 5040UB(e). I noticed it about a few weeks ago. Seems that it has progressively gotten bigger. 

I purchased my 5040UBe back in Oct. 2016. I did end up calling epson and they state that it's likely the optical block becoming unglued or something. The replacement refurb projector is at my local fedex distribution site which I will pick up. 

Just wanted to post this to see if it was common or not and if anyone else has seen this. It would really suck if this happens post warranty.

Thanks!


----------



## socalsharky

*Recommendations for Initial Evaluation*

I just purchased the Epson 5040. For now, I am just shooting it at a light gray wall. My screen is coming in the next week or so.

I searched this thread for recommendations on initial setup and evaluation, but came up empty. Can anyone point me to a post with some initial settings and/or modes that I should use to evaluate the capabilities of the projector? I have only 4 hours on the lamp to make my decision, and want to make those count. BTW, this is my first projector. Thanks.


----------



## Bigfire

*Receiver cannot display menu*

Hi everyone,

Just getting my new 5040 set up, and one of the first problems I've run into is that I can't get the onscreen UI from my Pioneer SC-95 to show up. Every time I hit menu, it reports an HDMI problem. Everything's being successfully passed through the Pioneer to the projector, including 1080 and 4K, and I have an HDMI 2.2 cable, so I'm baffled as to what the problem is. Any ideas?


----------



## n4xxr76

above1 said:


> Has anyone experienced a pinkish band along any border of their screen with their 5040UB(e). I noticed it about a few weeks ago. Seems that it has progressively gotten bigger.
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased my 5040UBe back in Oct. 2016. I did end up calling epson and they state that it's likely the optical block becoming unglued or something. The replacement refurb projector is at my local fedex distribution site which I will pick up.
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to post this to see if it was common or not and if anyone else has seen this. It would really suck if this happens post warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




That happened to mine out of the box and Epson replaced the unit without any hassle. Just call support and they will send you a new one. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

sduerden said:


> I have been lurking on this thread for months. I have had the 5040 since Feb. and have it hooked up to an Xbox one S, Apple TV, Roku Premier +, and 4k DIRECTV all running through a Denon x1300. This is my first projector and I’ve been amazed. Yesterday I finally broke down and bought Magnificent Seven on 4k disc and played it with the Harpervisiom settings. All I can say is wow. Thanks Dave for sharing your setting and for sharing. That takes an already stunning picture to a whole new level. I will be buying 4k discs for my favorite movies from now on. Thanks to all for posing your settings and findings. I can’t imagine having this projector without all the settings help this board provides. I cannot imagine not having a projector after watching a movie on this amazing machine. Thanks again.



You're very welcome. Don't hesitate to ask any questions and make sure you you tweak it to your environment. 

Also, I would check out Oledurt's settings too. Some prefer his and some prefer mine, so it's a matter of personal taste which one people like better, and that's all that matters really. 



Snoogleheimer said:


> Ok, received then watched 'The Great Wall' last night and have to agree with a lot of folks, it is stunning, visually and audibly. It's my new reference. Also, I didn't think the content was as bad as some thought. Really makes the 5040ub shine. I don't know what they did to this movie but yeah, very nice indeed.



Yeah, my wife and I watched it on my HarperVision modded Epson LS10000 laser unit and OMG I couldn't stop gushing to her about the colors and cinematography!!!


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

jaychatbonneau said:


> How would you guys describe the quality of 3D from the 5040ub? Do you see flicker?


I would say with Epson's 120hz 3d flicker is not a problem


----------



## n4xxr76

n4xxr76 said:


> That happened to mine out of the box and Epson replaced the unit without any hassle. Just call support and they will send you a new one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Of course I didn't read your whole post before responding.  Good luck with your replacement unit, I've had no issues (yet) with the new one they sent. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Dave Harper said:


> Yeah, my wife and I watched it on my HarperVision modded Epson LS10000 laser unit and OMG I couldn't stop gushing to her about the colors and cinematography!!!


I think they are starting to get it. I bet most movies real soon are going to look awesome. Can't wait to see what projectors can do in 2 to 3 years. For now, my 5040ub will do just fine. Very pleased with it.


----------



## above1

n4xxr76 said:


> That happened to mine out of the box and Epson replaced the unit without any hassle. Just call support and they will send you a new one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks. I guess my next question is that if their refurb is as good as new? Granted my device is no longer new as I've had it for about a good 8 months now. The guy on the phone said that warranty still applies.


----------



## n4xxr76

above1 said:


> Thanks. I guess my next question is that if their refurb is as good as new? Granted my device is no longer new as I've had it for about a good 8 months now. The guy on the phone said that warranty still applies.




I can't speak to refurbs as I bought &I returned mine very early so they didn't have any yet. The warranty is for 1 year so keep an eye on your "new" one. Epson's service history is very good so I think you should be fine. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cnorth12

Bigfire said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Just getting my new 5040 set up, and one of the first problems I've run into is that I can't get the onscreen UI from my Pioneer SC-95 to show up. Every time I hit menu, it reports an HDMI problem. Everything's being successfully passed through the Pioneer to the projector, including 1080 and 4K, and I have an HDMI 2.2 cable, so I'm baffled as to what the problem is. Any ideas?










I had the SC-95. Look at page 92 in the manual under the 4K/60p Signal Input Settings. Try this and see if it helps.


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks. I did manually swtich to Auto Bright HDR when using Oledurt setting but still the HV setting suits my setup better, after re-watching several reference UHD disks over the weekend.

Thanks all for the input.




aaranddeeman said:


> As @*panman40* pointed out. The DR setting is not part of the memory.


----------



## ac388

Since I never use the HDMI input port #2 on this unit, can it receive 4K or only for 2K material ? Thanks in advance.


----------



## carp

robc1976 said:


> question, it says HDR1 auto bright, I can only choose one or the other auto bright or HDR1. Wich do I choose?





Oledurt said:


> They are the same just use auto bright
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





robc1976 said:


> just to be sure, this is in signal menu, then under "dynamic range" setting correct?




These ^ aren't the same for me. I have the option of Auto, SDR, HDR Mode 1, etc. 

When I select "auto" the picture is darker than when I select HDR Mode 1. I prefer HDR Mode 1 but that could be because I have a very large screen.


----------



## Bigfire

cnorth12 said:


> I had the SC-95. Look at page 92 in the manual under the 4K/60p Signal Input Settings. Try this and see if it helps.


I would not have expected that to work, since it's specifically setting the signal on three inputs, and I had the same problem on other inputs. I also noticed that when I went in to set it, it was already set to 4:2:0, so that seemed a no go to me.

And then the menu popped up no problem.
/jaw drop

Thanks!


----------



## aaranddeeman

ac388 said:


> Noted with thanks. I did manually swtich to Auto Bright HDR when using Oledurt setting but still the HV setting suits my setup better, after re-watching several reference UHD disks over the weekend.
> 
> Thanks all for the input.


Yup. Both are excellent. Stick with what works for you and you like..


----------



## aaranddeeman

carp said:


> These ^ aren't the same for me. I have the option of Auto, SDR, HDR Mode 1, etc.
> 
> When I select "auto" the picture is darker than when I select HDR Mode 1. I prefer HDR Mode 1 but that could be because I have a very large screen.


You will need to install latest firmware to see Auto Bright option.


----------



## aaranddeeman

ac388 said:


> Since I never use the HDMI input port #2 on this unit, can it receive 4K or only for 2K material ? Thanks in advance.


It can receive 4k as long as it is not HDCP 2.2 encrypted.


----------



## rustolemite

So there is a new Epson out called the 4000 looks like a cheaper version of the 5040UB. Just saw this guys post on a FB page dedicated to HT thought it was a little BS.

"Issues the 5040 face... Issues Epson projectors face in general... There are websites and forums and threads with plethora's of people with even more complaints about almost any Epson projector model ever created...
When people finally wake up and realize Epson is not the great company they think it is, and stop supporting them by buying their products, maybe they'll get the hint that people want WORKING items...
Honestly at this point I'd recommend a BenQ or an Optoma over an Epson projector. They don't have nearly as high of a failure rate, and they're cheaper!
I service & sell projectors for a living, I'm not a random idiot spouting BS. This is the experience I have had with Epson projectors in general. I no longer sell Epson products unless they make their way to me at $0 cost."
"Also, I would like to like Epson projectors again, they are nice machines for the price out of the box, but they just don't last, and use low quality components... 
Until they step up their game, I have no love for them."


----------



## Shane M

A bit of a generic/noob question. This is my first PJ with lens shift, and apparently I didn't realize that you can't max out horizontal AND vertical shift simultaneously. So, I ended up on the hairy edge of where my screen can be placed given room constraints.

Basically I'm slightly keystoned (bottom is 1cm wider than top) and I've maxed out vertical lens shift. No more tilt available (obstructed by ceiling fan). The only way to correct it is to:

-Get new mount that goes an inch lower
-Move existing mount to the far edge of horizontal lens shift, allowing to bypass ceiling fan
-Maybe add a spacer between mount and ceiling
-Use Keystone correction, which I'm assuming is contraindicated even for this small amount?

Otherwise I could just leave it alone. Not sure I will notice once the screen is placed.


----------



## john barlow

Snoogleheimer said:


> I think they are starting to get it. I bet most movies real soon are going to look awesome. Can't wait to see what projectors can do in 2 to 3 years. For now, my 5040ub will do just fine. Very pleased with it.


Let me be perfectly clear. I am enjoying the heck out of my Epson5040UB projector because it has auto lens memory. I can watch the 2:35.1 scope presentation without the necessity of anamorphic optics and motorized sled which can cost double the price of the projector. My 1080P films which number close to one thousand have been given new life. The UHD discs I've started collecting are amazing, once I learned how to use settings on the fly. I'm still very happy with one gripe. The HDMI board that is restricting throughput of any input over 10.2gpbs. My only complaint. 3D brightness is the best I've seen and most immersive of any projector I've viewed. Long life bulb when compared to my Panasonic AE8000U is still very strong and bright after 2700 hours in a little over six months. Six months. That's a record number of hours for our home cinema in such a short amount of time. I'd have to say that is because once mounted the Epson 5040UB is dangerously addictive. If I think of anymore attributes, I'll edit this post. if anyone else has highlights of their Epson 5040Ub, please feel free to add comments. Cheers!


----------



## WynsWrld98

john barlow said:


> The HDMI board that is restricting throughput of any input over 10.2gpbs!


Since JVC supports full HDMI bandwidth I'd suspect the Epson 5050/6050 will as well (maybe announced at CEDIA 9/2017).


----------



## john barlow

WynsWrld98 said:


> Since JVC supports full HDMI bandwidth I'd suspect the Epson 5050/6050 will as well (maybe announced at CEDIA 9/2017).


I'm aware that the JVC does indeed. I wasn't made aware when the Epson 5040UB was announced that it didn't allow 18gbps throughput. None of the smashing reviews mentioned that fact. I didn't find out until I had already ordered the unit. Once mounted, I joined the group here, but alas, I loved the projector regardless of this glaring omission by Epson. I've always admired this company, especially their dedication to customer satisfaction. I wish they would consider offering owners the option of upgrading this HDMI board, as I know it's entirely possible and the costs would not be prohibitive. But, I imagine that isn't in their plans moving forward with the next edition of this projector.


----------



## Bob Sorel

> The HDMI board that is restricting throughput of any input over 10.2gpbs. My only complaint.


Would you please explain what this is all about, and even more important, what it does in terms of restricting picture quality?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Bob Sorel said:


> Would you please explain what this is all about, and even more important, what it does in terms of restricting picture quality?


After seeing all the mess with HDMI cables and it's (not) working with full bandwidth, I would say Epson played it nicely by not offering full 18Gbps HDMI.
Else part (or most) of the blame would have gone to Epson (most likely) if one did not see the picture at 18Gbs, even though it could have been cable. 
Also the bright side of 10.2Gbps is you have wide range of cables to work with (that actually will not perform well with 18Gbps) and still enjoy the same exact quality of the picture.
I for one don't miss the 7.8Gbps while watching the movies..


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks.



aaranddeeman said:


> It can receive 4k as long as it is not HDCP 2.2 encrypted.


----------



## WynsWrld98

aaranddeeman said:


> After seeing all the mess with HDMI cables and it's (not) working with full bandwidth, I would say Epson played it nicely by not offering full 18Gbps HDMI.
> Else part (or most) of the blame would have gone to Epson (most likely) if one did not see the picture at 18Gbs, even though it could have been cable.
> Also the bright side of 10.2Gbps is you have wide range of cables to work with (that actually will not perform well with 18Gbps) and still enjoy the same exact quality of the picture.
> I for one don't miss the 7.8Gbps while watching the movies..


People complain on this thread of cables not working even with 10.2 GB limitation so I don't buy the argument at all.


----------



## Seawater

jesped2 said:


> Quick question: which 3D glasses are supposedly the best? the Epson ELPGS03?


I've used these and they're excellent. Work well over regular glasses as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I8TF76M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## carp

aaranddeeman said:


> You will need to install latest firmware to see Auto Bright option.


Ahhh gotcha thanks. I haven't seen posts about any significant improvements or changes, actually this is the first difference I've seen. Do you or anyone else know if the auto bright is similar in brightness to the "Auto" setting from before the firmware update?


----------



## Holy Sith

carp said:


> Ahhh gotcha thanks. I haven't seen posts about any significant improvements or changes, actually this is the first difference I've seen. Do you or anyone else know if the auto bright is similar in brightness to the "Auto" setting from before the firmware update?


I think the updated "Auto Bright" setting just makes HDR material default to HDR 1 instead of HDR 2 (so I guess 500 nits instead of 1000 nits). I haven't actually bothered updating the firmware on mine though because if it ain't broke, don't fix it. You can just manually switch to HDR1 to compare what the difference in brightness is like.


----------



## aaranddeeman

WynsWrld98 said:


> People complain on this thread of cables not working even with 10.2 GB limitation so I don't buy the argument at all.


Yes. Of course. You need to have a decent enough cable based on your length. So yes if someone is complaining about 50+ ft cable with 28+ AWG, I don't buy their argument either.


----------



## aaranddeeman

carp said:


> Ahhh gotcha thanks. I haven't seen posts about any significant improvements or changes, actually this is the first difference I've seen. Do you or anyone else know if the auto bright is similar in brightness to the "Auto" setting from before the firmware update?


Auto Bright will default to HDR1
Auto will default to HDR2

So earlier, you needed to force the DR to HDR1 (as that is the brightest one), and Auto was pretty much useless in that case. That is now solved.


----------



## Oledurt

aaranddeeman said:


> Yup. Both are excellent. Stick with what works for you and you like..




You did use my settings in Bright Cinema mode correct? Dave's are for Digital Cinema, my settings are to be used in Bright Cinema mode. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> You did use my settings in Bright Cinema mode correct? Dave's are for Digital Cinema, my settings are to be used in Bright Cinema mode.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes. That is correct.
What I did is, I used only your custom gamma. Rest I kept my setting that I had calibrated using HCFR.
Though I have not done extensive A/B between yours and Dave's, my inclination towards your setting is simply due to minimum deviation from the calibrated setting (just a feel good you know)... 
And I use it in Eco mode with manual iris at -15.


----------



## Oledurt

aaranddeeman said:


> Yes. That is correct.
> 
> What I did is, I used only your custom gamma. Rest I kept my setting that I had calibrated using HCFR.
> 
> Though I have not done extensive A/B between yours and Dave's, my inclination towards your setting is simply due to minimum deviation from the calibrated setting (just a feel good you know)...
> 
> And I use it in Eco mode with manual iris at -15.




I see so you didn't really use my settings...That makes sense.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

I can confirm that using the Panasonic 4K player has gotten rid of almost all crosstalk on my 5040. It's insane how much of a difference it makes!!! I haven't even tried HDR yet to see how the brightness slider makes a difference. Very impressed with this player. Not just because of how improved and bright the 3D is now with almost no crosstalk, but also the actual physical appearance of this thing is absolutely stunning and has a very high end look. Way to go Panasonic!!!!

FYI, just watched Secret Life of Pets in 3D this evening and it's one of the best looking 3D movies yet. Definitely one of my reference discs now. Couple scenes with the snakes literally jump right off the screen. Some of the best most vibrant colors in a 3D movie as well. 

Now if only I could eventually figure out a way to watch a true 4K movie with FI enabled, this would be the perfect projector. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

Right now I am using an ISF calibrated Digital Cinema mode. I am using a Panasonic UB900 UHD player and the HDFury Integral. I use the HDFury to strip HDR and the panny then converts HDR to SDR while still keeping the BT2020 colorspace. I lose HDR, but gain WCG via BT2020 and digital cinema mode. I keep the 10 bit color depth, and of course the 4k resolution. This projector can't do HDR properly, but is very good at hitting BT2020 in digital cinema mode. I feel the trade off is more than worth it. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

JewDaddy said:


> Now if only I could eventually figure out a way to watch a true 4K movie with FI enabled, this would be the perfect projector.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sadly FI doesn't work with 4K content


----------



## JewDaddy

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Sadly FI doesn't work with 4K content




Do you think it's something that could change with a firmware update?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> Right now I am using an ISF calibrated Digital Cinema mode. I am using a Panasonic UB900 UHD player and the HDFury Integral. I use the HDFury to strip HDR and the panny then converts HDR to SDR while still keeping the BT2020 colorspace. I lose HDR, but gain WCG via BT2020 and digital cinema mode. I keep the 10 bit color depth, and of course the 4k resolution. This projector can't do HDR properly, but is very good at hitting BT2020 in digital cinema mode. I feel the trade off is more than worth it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Isn't HV setting the same ( minus the HDFury and minus $250)?


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

JewDaddy said:


> Do you think it's something that could change with a firmware update?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nope


----------



## Oledurt

aaranddeeman said:


> Isn't HV setting the same ( minus the HDFury and minus $250)?




No it is not the same. With his settings you are not stripping off the HDR Metadata. You are simply watching HDR using the SDR tone mapping of the projector.

The HD Fury Integral actually strips the HDR Metadata and the Panny than down converts HDR to SDR all the while keeping the BT2020 WCG Colorspace. 

The Oppo 203 can strip the metadata without using the HD Fury, but it does not down convert HDR to SDR well. Users report seeing a lot of black crush with the oppo. The Panny however does a phenomenal job.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> No it is not the same. With his settings you are not stripping off the HDR Metadata. You are simply watching HDR using the SDR tone mapping of the projector.
> 
> The HD Fury Integral actually strips the HDR Metadata and the Panny than down converts HDR to SDR all the while keeping the BT2020 WCG Colorspace.
> 
> The Oppo 203 can strip the metadata without using the HD Fury, but it does not down convert HDR to SDR well. Users report seeing a lot of black crush with the oppo. The Panny however does a phenomenal job.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I never realised your settings were combined with the HD fury striping HDR metadata, that would account for a lot I'm thinking.


----------



## panman40

Right, in the UK the Epson models are as follows,

TW7300
TW9300 - black colour with 3 yr warranty 
TW9300w - White colour with wireless capability and 5 yr warranty.


Can somebody confirm 100% which of the above models matches the USA 5040 and 6040 please ?.

Thank you.


----------



## JewDaddy

Just curious what most people are using as their sharpness and image enhancement settings when watching a 1080p blu-ray, UHD movie and 3D movie


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> I never realised your settings were combined with the HD fury striping HDR metadata, that would account for a lot I'm thinking.




No they were not calibrated with it, I am just currently using it to strip HDR. My settings for bright cinema and digital cinema were both calibrated for HDR.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

panman40 said:


> Right, in the UK the Epson models are as follows,
> 
> TW7300
> TW9300 - black colour with 3 yr warranty
> TW9300w - White colour with wireless capability and 5 yr warranty.
> 
> Can somebody confirm 100% which of the above models matches the USA 5040 and 6040 please ?.
> 
> Thank you.


This is not 100% but based on my research:

TW7300 in Europe white - 4040 in the USA and black version:

https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...or-with-4K-Enhancement-and-HDR/p/V11H715020MB
http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-6040ub-home-theater-projector-review.htm

'The Pro models are black, the Home models are white.
The Pro 6040UB and 4040 models come with a ceiling mount, an extra replacement lamp, a cable cover, and a third year of warranty included in the price. The Home Cinema 5040UB and 5040UBe come with a two year warranty; replacement lamps, ceiling mounts and cable covers are not included'

Home cinema: 
5040ub is white w/o wireless (in Europe it looks its TW9300 - black color),
5040UBe is white with wireless (in Europe TW9300w and white color)

Pro: 
6040ub is black with extended warranty, ceiling mount and extra lamp (not sure if this one has wifi option - looks like it's TW9300 with additional service options) 4040 has also such "Pro" options.

I hate these different numberings etc. Same with JVC numbering - one should get some special matrix to decode what is what and where. 
with 5xxx/6xxx I think the mapping with EU models is mixed up


----------



## rupedogg24

Posting a few pics of my 5040ub that blow me away with how sharp and crisp they look. Colorful as well. These are from the Smithsonian Earth 4k channel on roku. Bright Cinema mode. 4pm with light coming through 3 windows and the picture is still bright as hell.

Taken with my cell phone about 7ft from the screen. Amazing.









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

Oledurt said:


> Right now I am using an ISF calibrated Digital Cinema mode. I am using a Panasonic UB900 UHD player and the HDFury Integral. I use the HDFury to strip HDR and the panny then converts HDR to SDR while still keeping the BT2020 colorspace. I lose HDR, but gain WCG via BT2020 and digital cinema mode. I keep the 10 bit color depth, and of course the 4k resolution. This projector can't do HDR properly, but is very good at hitting BT2020 in digital cinema mode. I feel the trade off is more than worth it.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hi Oledurt,
I have the same setup (HDFury Integral and UB900). I currently using your bright cinema settings for UHD blu-ray. I would prefer to keep BT2020 colour (over HDR) if I could get digital cinema bright enough. When you strip HDR (I assume you are using mode 10 - 4k60-420 12-bit BT.2020 All Sound on the HDFury) are you using a custom gamma curve on the Epson and if so would you mind sharing it?

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## Oledurt

whmacs said:


> Hi Oledurt,
> I have the same setup (HDFury Integral and UB900). I currently using your bright cinema settings for UHD blu-ray. I would prefer to keep BT2020 colour (over HDR) if I could get digital cinema bright enough. When you strip HDR (I assume you are using mode 10 - 4k60-420 12-bit BT.2020 All Sound on the HDFury) are you using a custom gamma curve on the Epson and if so would you mind sharing it?
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen




On the panny I have dynamic range conversion set to -6 and have also increased the brightness +6 on the panny to offset the darker picture.

On the Integral I am using mode 10. Projector Info is 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 SDR...Enjoy.

Here are my settings.

Digital Cinema Mode

Brightness 48
Contrast 70
Color Saturation 50
Tint 50

Color Temp 4
Skin Tone 3
[Customized]
Offset R 48
Offset G 48
Offset B 50
Gain R 50
Gain G 50
Gain B 41

Power Consumption Medium
Auto Iris High Speed

Gamma (Left to Right)
-1,0,0,-2,-4,-8,-11,-8,-5

[RGBCMY]
R 50,44,66
G 97,77,44
B 66,63,50
C 62,52,60
M 78,58,58
Y 50,45,63

Epson Super White Off
Lens Iris 0

HDMI Video Range Auto
Color Space Auto
Dynamic Range Auto
Image Processing Fast




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

Oledurt said:


> On the panny I have dynamic range conversion set to -6 and have also increased the brightness +6 on the panny to offset the darker picture.
> 
> On the Integral I am using mode 10. Projector Info is 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 SDR...Enjoy.
> 
> Here are my settings.
> 
> Digital Cinema Mode
> 
> Brightness 48
> Contrast 70
> Color Saturation 50
> Tint 50
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> [Customized]
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 50
> Gain G 50
> Gain B 41
> 
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris High Speed
> 
> Gamma (Left to Right)
> -1,0,0,-2,-4,-8,-11,-8,-5
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> R 50,44,66
> G 97,77,44
> B 66,63,50
> C 62,52,60
> M 78,58,58
> Y 50,45,63
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI Video Range Auto
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto
> Image Processing Fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks Oledurt, you are a champion!
I will give these setting a try this weekend.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## covsound1

Oledurt said:


> On the panny I have dynamic range conversion set to -6 and have also increased the brightness +6 on the panny to offset the darker picture.
> 
> On the Integral I am using mode 10. Projector Info is 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 SDR...Enjoy.
> 
> Here are my settings.
> 
> Digital Cinema Mode
> 
> Brightness 48
> Contrast 70
> Color Saturation 50
> Tint 50
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> [Customized]
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 50
> Gain G 50
> Gain B 41
> 
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris High Speed
> 
> Gamma (Left to Right)
> -1,0,0,-2,-4,-8,-11,-8,-5
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> R 50,44,66
> G 97,77,44
> B 66,63,50
> C 62,52,60
> M 78,58,58
> Y 50,45,63
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI Video Range Auto
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto
> Image Processing Fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


on the same page! the panny can really work the picture i also use the black gamma control for 3d like depth.


----------



## above1

n4xxr76 said:


> I can't speak to refurbs as I bought &I returned mine very early so they didn't have any yet. The warranty is for 1 year so keep an eye on your "new" one. Epson's service history is very good so I think you should be fine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So I finally picked up the refurb at fedex.. I had them hold it there for safe keeping. Take the original one down and put the refurb up. Turns on fine looks good set it to match my screen size and then turn on the HDMI source to play with the picture. 


The thing sounds like a minifridge compressor when 4K image enhancement is on. It sure does not do that with my original one. Call up Epson and they tell me that's normal. I'm like "NO FREAKING WAY!" I have the other on right here connected to power and just transfer the video cable and have 4K image enhancement on or off and it doesn't make any changes in it's sound output. 4K on or off on the original one sounds exactly the same. Petty freaking quite on medium power output and 4K image enhancement on.


They are sending me another unit. I will receive it on Monday


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> Right now I am using an ISF calibrated Digital Cinema mode. I am using a Panasonic UB900 UHD player and the HDFury Integral. I use the HDFury to strip HDR and the panny then converts HDR to SDR while still keeping the BT2020 colorspace. I lose HDR, but gain WCG via BT2020 and digital cinema mode. I keep the 10 bit color depth, and of course the 4k resolution. This projector can't do HDR properly, but is very good at hitting BT2020 in digital cinema mode. I feel the trade off is more than worth it.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Have you tried my HarperVision settings at all though? With those you can at least preserve the HDR and the bt2020, instead of bt2020 SDR. 

I got very similar performance as what you're doing with stripping HDR, but I noticed you get the best of both SDR bt2020 and HDR bt2020 with my settings. 



aaranddeeman said:


> Isn't HV setting the same ( minus the HDFury and minus $250)?



No it isn't, as Oledurt mentions below. 




Oledurt said:


> No it is not the same. With his settings you are not stripping off the HDR Metadata. You are simply watching HDR using the SDR tone mapping of the projector.
> 
> The HD Fury Integral actually strips the HDR Metadata and the Panny than down converts HDR to SDR all the while keeping the BT2020 WCG Colorspace.
> 
> The Oppo 203 can strip the metadata without using the HD Fury, but it does not down convert HDR to SDR well. Users report seeing a lot of black crush with the oppo. The Panny however does a phenomenal job.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Again, I'm curious why you feel the need to strip HDR on the 5040? With my settings you gain the brightness of SDR back and also can keep the benefits of HDR and bt2020 with the P3 color filter in Digital Cinema Mode. 

It just doesn't make sense anymore to strip HDR when you can use HV on this 4K HDR WCG capable projector.


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> Have you tried my HarperVision settings at all though? With those you can at least preserve the HDR and the bt2020, instead of bt2020 SDR.
> 
> I got very similar performance as what you're doing with stripping HDR, but I noticed you get the best of both SDR bt2020 and HDR bt2020 with my settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No it isn't, as Oledurt mentions below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I'm curious why you feel the need to strip HDR on the 5040? With my settings you gain the brightness of SDR back and also can keep the benefits of HDR and bt2020 with the P3 color filter in Digital Cinema Mode.
> 
> It just doesn't make sense anymore to strip HDR when you can use HV on this 4K HDR WCG capable projector.




Dave,

I have tried your settings. They look nice. As you know I had a full ISF calibration for my specific system. Gamma curves, and specific settings customized to my room.

I use my ISF Digital Cinema settings to preserve the ISF calibration I paid for. I strip HDR because the HDR contrast range on this projector is so limited due to the lack of nits. 

The panny has settings to create a sort of faux HDR that actually looks pretty good. I use the dynamic conversion setting to extend the contrast which creates an HDR like image. The tradeoff are some undersaturated colors, but this can easily be countered by bumping up color saturation +3 on the panny.

In addition to that, dynamic conversion darkens the picture a smidge. This can also be countered by bumping up the brightness on the panny.

I did a blind test using my wife showing different scenes, both bright, and dark that should theoretically be dramatically better with HDR. I showed an image with HDR on, and than with HDR down converted to SDR with BT2020. 

10 out of 10 times my wife picked the BT2020 SDR image as being superior. That confirmed what I was also experiencing.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> Right now I am using an ISF calibrated Digital Cinema mode. I am using a Panasonic UB900 UHD player and the HDFury Integral. I use the *HDFury to strip HDR and the panny then converts HDR to SDR* while still keeping the BT2020 colorspace. I lose HDR, but gain WCG via BT2020 and digital cinema mode. I keep the 10 bit color depth, and of course the 4k resolution. This projector can't do HDR properly, but is very good at hitting BT2020 in digital cinema mode. I feel the trade off is more than worth it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


After re-reading, you lost me there.
You are implying the connection like below

UHD source -> HDFury -> UB900 -> [AVR] -> Epson

So what is this UHD source that is feeding into HDFury??


----------



## Oledurt

aaranddeeman said:


> After re-reading, you lost me there.
> 
> You are implying the connection like below
> 
> 
> 
> UHD source -> HDFury -> UB900 -> [AVR] -> Epson
> 
> 
> 
> So what is this UHD source that is feeding into HDFury??




ok...The Panasonic UB900 is connected to the HD Fury Integral, which is connected to the AVR which is connected to the projector.

The UHD player sends the info to the fury which then strips the HDR meta data, which then is passed through the AVR which then passes it to the projector where it is appropriately displayed as 12 bit color depth BT2020 SDR.

Make sense?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

Oledurt said:


> ok...The Panasonic UB900 is connected to the HD Fury Integral, which is connected to the AVR which is connected to the projector.
> 
> The UHD player sends the info to the fury which then strips the HDR meta data, which then is passed through the AVR which then passes it to the projector where it is appropriately displayed as 12 bit color depth BT2020 SDR.
> 
> Make sense?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 @Oledurt
Have you now changed from using Bright Cinema to Digital Cinema?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> ok...The Panasonic UB900 is connected to the HD Fury Integral, which is connected to the AVR which is connected to the projector.
> 
> The UHD player sends the info to the fury which then strips the HDR meta data, which then is passed through the AVR which then passes it to the projector where it is appropriately displayed as 12 bit color depth BT2020 SDR.
> 
> Make sense?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes. Now it is. 
You had mentioned HDFury strips HDR metadata and then UB900 converts it to SDR was kind of confusing..


----------



## rustolemite

Dumb question but other than the fan should there be any other noises coming from the projector? I have it ECO mode, does the fan run all the time or just when needed? I swear I am hearing some other mechanical noise.
Also when switching inputs on my AVR it seems like the fan stops till it detects another signal.


----------



## Oledurt

Lesmor said:


> @Oledurt
> 
> Have you now changed from using Bright Cinema to Digital Cinema?




I am currently using digital cinema with hdr stripped.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Shane M

As far as I can tell, the 5040 doesn't really have any shutdown sequence. Could I safely install a power switch in-line with it and use that to control on/off? Assuming I'm not being stupid and cycling power repeatedly in a short period of time..


----------



## Sundodger

philipbtz said:


> All you need for BD or other content in 1080p Rec. 709 SDR is the Natural mode as it's very good out of the box. I run these settings in Natural for BD: Gamma -1. Brightness 51, Contrast 48, Iris -20, lamp ECO, white balance 7000K. This is for a very dark room. For livingroom you should probably try gamma 0 as that's close to 2.2. Gamme -1 is around 2.4. It's very easy to save and load settings for different content. I mainly use this and harpervision for HDR stuff.


This is a stupid question, but where in the menus can you adjust the White Balance to 7000k?


----------



## ericshoot

Can anyone tell me if I can stream Netflix and amazon 4K HDR on the 5040? Thanks.


----------



## roland6465

ericshoot said:


> Can anyone tell me if I can stream Netflix and amazon 4K HDR on the 5040? Thanks.


From a streaming device capable of it, yes.


----------



## webmst

Mr. Dave Harper - Quick Question
Sir - did you end up getting a decent SDR setup for your Epson 5030/6030 prejector before you let it go ?


----------



## dead2sin

elmalloc said:


> Oddly enough, I play games without 4K enhancement on. It does remove any pixel visibility (turning on 4K enhancement), but in some instances the games look slightly sharper without 4k enhancement on. You can still set an image enhancement preset, even so.
> 
> I have different settings for the following:
> 
> HDR Movies
> SDR Movies
> Wii-U/Switch
> PS4 PRO HDR
> PS4 PRO SDR


Would you mind sharing the specifics for each of these sets? I have a very similar setup 

Thanks!


----------



## webmst

For any newbies - a Word document with most of the settings and tech explainations for Epson 504/6040


----------



## dead2sin

webmst said:


> For any newbies - a Word document with most of the settings and tech explainations for Epson 504/6040


Thanks!


----------



## aaranddeeman

Sundodger said:


> This is a stupid question, but where in the menus can you adjust the White Balance to 7000k?


Only for Natural mode IIRC


----------



## SALadder22FF

Anyone have any issue with audio sync issues?idk if it's me or my receiver or the Epson. It's not really off just seems like a fraction of second

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

I have been considering selling my 203 and getting a Panasonic. However, Dave Harper and Oledurts settings for the 5040 are making me second guess that. I like both but prefer Oledurt's buy a bit. Here they are again:


Bright Cinema Mode. HDR Mode 1

Brightness = 50
Contrast = 49
Color Saturation = 50
Tint = 50
Color Temp = 4
Skin Tone = 4
Offset R = 50
Offser G = 50
Offset B = 51
Gain R = 50
Gain G = 50
Gain B = 43

Power Consumption = Medium

RGBCMY

R 53,50,50
G 40,94,27
B 61,49,47
C 59,46,44
M 62,50,50
Y 37,50,48

Auto Iris = Off
Epson Super White = Off
Lens Iris = 0
Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0


I know you can't tell much from a picture... but I'll post one anyway. This is from my main seat which is 10 feet from a 158" screen with John Wick 2. 







I guess what I'm really asking is pretty unrealistic. *I'm looking for someone that owns both the Oppo and the Panny and has the 5040 projector and can try the above settings on the 5040 and see if the Panny still beats the Oppo.* Slim chance I'm sure...


----------



## Lesmor

carp said:


> I have been considering selling my 203 and getting a Panasonic. However, Dave Harper and Oledurts settings for the 5040 are making me second guess that. I like both but prefer Oledurt's buy a bit. Here they are again:
> 
> I guess what I'm really asking is pretty unrealistic. *I'm looking for someone that owns both the Oppo and the Panny and has the 5040 projector and can try the above settings on the 5040 and see if the Panny still beats the Oppo.* Slim chance I'm sure...


Maybe not so slim 
Oledurt is now using* Digital Cinema *and completely different settings
I assume he prefers them to his Bright Cinema settings


----------



## jaggajatt

Dave Harper said:


> I'm so sorry, but I thought I took a picture of the CMS for SDR Natural but I must not have! I only see one for HV HDR. Then I packed it up and shipped it to its new owner. Maybe they can chime in with what it is once they set it up?


Dave would you mind sharing your CMS (RGBCMY) setting for HV HDR?


----------



## aaranddeeman

jaggajatt said:


> Dave would you mind sharing your CMS (RGBCMY) setting for HV HDR?


He doesn't have the 5040 anymore I believe (unless he has jotted down those settings)


----------



## Schuyler Bain

carp said:


> I have been considering selling my 203 and getting a Panasonic. However, Dave Harper and Oledurts settings for the 5040 are making me second guess that. I like both but prefer Oledurt's buy a bit. Here they are again:


Was planning on ordering an Oppo 203 today to pair with my 5040UB. Which Panasonic is a contender?

Anyone else unhappy with their 203?


----------



## n4xxr76

Schuyler Bain said:


> Was planning on ordering an Oppo 203 today to pair with my 5040UB. Which Panasonic is a contender?
> 
> Anyone else unhappy with their 203?




It's the Panasonic DMP-UB900. I am also in the market but on the fence as to which one to buy. Most of the comparisons I've seen say the Panasonic is better but just barely. At this point, I think I'd probably be happy with either. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Schuyler Bain

n4xxr76 said:


> It's the Panasonic DMP-UB900. I am also in the market but on the fence as to which one to buy. Most of the comparisons I've seen say the Panasonic is better but just barely. At this point, I think I'd probably be happy with either.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The panasonic looks solid, but since I have a $225 off coupon from a previous purchase (avail on select brands - Oppo), the Oppo 203 looks like a winner for me.


----------



## swyda038

*4k Enhancement*

Is there a way to manually turn on and off the 4k enhancement or is it done automatically by the projector based on the source?

Thanks!


----------



## GeneHT

Shane M said:


> As far as I can tell, the 5040 doesn't really have any shutdown sequence. Could I safely install a power switch in-line with it and use that to control on/off? Assuming I'm not being stupid and cycling power repeatedly in a short period of time..


In the settings you can set the PJ to power up when the power is turned on from in-line power switch. I am using this option since the projector is ceiling mounted it is hard to get at the PJ switch. I am also powering it up and down through power line filter that sequences through all the equipment in the HT when I do a power up or power down. I haven't had any problems and I haven't seen any posts saying you can not do this. 

If anyone has seen or heard anything please post it.

I know in the past I had a BenQ DLP PJ that when powered down the fan would go to high speed to cool down before it would shut off, but this PJ doesn't seem to do that.


----------



## ghiggs001

*Light output with 158 inch screen*



carp said:


> I have been considering selling my 203 and getting a Panasonic. However, Dave Harper and Oledurts settings for the 5040 are making me second guess that. I like both but prefer Oledurt's buy a bit. Here they are again:
> 
> 
> Bright Cinema Mode. HDR Mode 1
> 
> Brightness = 50
> Contrast = 49
> Color Saturation = 50
> Tint = 50
> Color Temp = 4
> Skin Tone = 4
> Offset R = 50
> Offser G = 50
> Offset B = 51
> Gain R = 50
> Gain G = 50
> Gain B = 43
> 
> Power Consumption = Medium
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 53,50,50
> G 40,94,27
> B 61,49,47
> C 59,46,44
> M 62,50,50
> Y 37,50,48
> 
> Auto Iris = Off
> Epson Super White = Off
> Lens Iris = 0
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0
> 
> 
> I know you can't tell much from a picture... but I'll post one anyway. This is from my main seat which is 10 feet from a 158" screen with John Wick 2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess what I'm really asking is pretty unrealistic. *I'm looking for someone that owns both the Oppo and the Panny and has the 5040 projector and can try the above settings on the 5040 and see if the Panny still beats the Oppo.* Slim chance I'm sure...


CARP:
I am on the fence of upgrading from my 6020ub and a Oppo 103 with a 160 inch screen, to the 6040ub and Oppo 203, in a dedicated home theater. What is your experience with the 158 inch screen relative to light output? My projector is located approximately 21 feet from the screen. How far is your projector from the screen? What other advice can you give relative to me upgrading?
Thanks


----------



## Shane M

GeneHT said:


> In the settings you can set the PJ to power up when the power is turned on from in-line power switch. I am using this option since the projector is ceiling mounted it is hard to get at the PJ switch. I am also powering it up and down through power line filter that sequences through all the equipment in the HT when I do a power up or power down. I haven't had any problems and I haven't seen any posts saying you can not do this.
> 
> If anyone has seen or heard anything please post it.
> 
> I know in the past I had a BenQ DLP PJ that when powered down the fan would go to high speed to cool down before it would shut off, but this PJ doesn't seem to do that.


Gene, thank you for taking the time to reply! Sounds good


----------



## carp

ghiggs001 said:


> CARP:
> I am on the fence of upgrading from my 6020ub and a Oppo 103 with a 160 inch screen, to the 6040ub and Oppo 203, in a dedicated home theater. What is your experience with the 158 inch screen relative to light output? My projector is located approximately 21 feet from the screen. How far is your projector from the screen? What other advice can you give relative to me upgrading?
> Thanks



The 5040 has plenty of light, I use eco most of the time unless I'm watching a 4K disk. My projector is 18 feet from the screen, so a little difference but shouldn't be massive between 18 and 21 feet I wouldn't think. 

The Oppo works flawlessly for blu ray disks but you will have skips at times with 4K disks. It happens to me maybe 1 out of 5 4K disks. Usually a disk that has a skip the first time through does not have any issues the second time... weird. 

It's enough for me to say that if I had it to do over again I would have bought the Panasonic so that's my advice as far as a player goes. 

I also recommend (if you haven't already) putting up velvet in the front half (or at least as much as you can) of your room. Last fall I covered the ceiling and walls in the front half of the room and it was well worth the difference. Sure it makes the blacks better, but for me the biggest improvement the velvet made was having absolutely no light reflection in my field of view, it make your eyes just focus on the screen. 

Be patient with setting up the lens memory. When you are setting it for say 16:9 start far away from your target and don't ever back track on your "clicks" of moving the image or it won't save in the same position.

Bright Cinema is awesome for a screen your size and IMO the colors and settings don't need a lot of tweaking to look great for tv and blu ray when using "Bright Cinema". 

Oh, put some electrical tape or something similar over the blue lights by the power button. They are crazy bright and lit up the back half of my room before I did that. 

I like the high speed iris setting. In previous projectors I didn't use it because it was slow and noisy. With the 5040 it's silent and quick. 

Bottom line you are going to love the increase in brightness that you get compared to the 6020 - but what you will like most is the 4k enhancement when applied to 1080p sources. Say good bye to the screen door effect!! I sit with my eyes 10 feet from the screen and I didn't realize how bad the SDE was with my previous Epsons (3500 and 8350) before getting the 5040.


----------



## Oledurt

Lesmor said:


> Maybe not so slim
> 
> Oledurt is now using* Digital Cinema *and completely different settings
> 
> I assume he prefers them to his Bright Cinema settings




To clarify I am using my Digital Cinema setting but I am striping off HDR. For HDR those bright cinema settings are good.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## GeneHT

carp

My Lordy, I just took a look at some of your pictures and was wondering.

Does the house lift up off the foundation when you turn up the volume? LOL


----------



## rustolemite

First of many questions to come but can somebody give me an idea why my brand new 5040 its shutting its self off? I have sleep mode off, this is my second projector the first was doing the same thing and a dead pixel (damaged in shipping) sent it back and got a new one just plugged it up today. 
Also running in ECO mode.
Please any help.


----------



## Basbear

Ive never seen so many problems/issues shared with great results......


----------



## k3nnis

rustolemite said:


> First of many questions to come but can somebody give me an idea why my brand new 5040 its shutting its self off? I have sleep mode off, this is my second projector the first was doing the same thing and a dead pixel (damaged in shipping) sent it back and got a new one just plugged it up today.
> 
> Also running in ECO mode.
> 
> Please any help.




Do you have hdmi control switched on for any of your devices? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

GeneHT said:


> carp
> 
> My Lordy, I just took a look at some of your pictures and was wondering.
> 
> Does the house lift up off the foundation when you turn up the volume? LOL


Haha,the need for more bass is a sickness for sure.  99% of the time the subs are just cruising but it's nice to have the headroom when you need/want it!


----------



## rustolemite

k3nnis said:


> Do you have hdmi control switched on for any of your devices?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I did have it on but turned off now. Hasn't cut off in the few hours. Hopefully that will work


----------



## ghiggs001

carp said:


> The 5040 has plenty of light, I use eco most of the time unless I'm watching a 4K disk. My projector is 18 feet from the screen, so a little difference but shouldn't be massive between 18 and 21 feet I wouldn't think.
> 
> The Oppo works flawlessly for blu ray disks but you will have skips at times with 4K disks. It happens to me maybe 1 out of 5 4K disks. Usually a disk that has a skip the first time through does not have any issues the second time... weird.
> 
> It's enough for me to say that if I had it to do over again I would have bought the Panasonic so that's my advice as far as a player goes.
> 
> I also recommend (if you haven't already) putting up velvet in the front half (or at least as much as you can) of your room. Last fall I covered the ceiling and walls in the front half of the room and it was well worth the difference. Sure it makes the blacks better, but for me the biggest improvement the velvet made was having absolutely no light reflection in my field of view, it make your eyes just focus on the screen.
> 
> Be patient with setting up the lens memory. When you are setting it for say 16:9 start far away from your target and don't ever back track on your "clicks" of moving the image or it won't save in the same position.
> 
> Bright Cinema is awesome for a screen your size and IMO the colors and settings don't need a lot of tweaking to look great for tv and blu ray when using "Bright Cinema".
> 
> Oh, put some electrical tape or something similar over the blue lights by the power button. They are crazy bright and lit up the back half of my room before I did that.
> 
> I like the high speed iris setting. In previous projectors I didn't use it because it was slow and noisy. With the 5040 it's silent and quick.
> 
> Bottom line you are going to love the increase in brightness that you get compared to the 6020 - but what you will like most is the 4k enhancement when applied to 1080p sources. Say good bye to the screen door effect!! I sit with my eyes 10 feet from the screen and I didn't realize how bad the SDE was with my previous Epsons (3500 and 8350) before getting the 5040.


CARP:
Thanks a lot for the inputs. I am just waiting to see if there will be any other options available after the September electronic show.


----------



## rustolemite

Can I get a link to a HDMI cable that's at least 40ft? Most I have asked elsewhere just say HDMI 2.0 and that's it, would like a link for me to purchase.

Thanks.


----------



## Lesmor

Oledurt said:


> To clarify I am using my Digital Cinema setting but I am striping off HDR. For HDR those bright cinema settings are good.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks for the clarification
So you have two settings

Digital Cinema uses the P3 filter and you strip off HDR

Bright Cinema does not use the P3 filter and you preserve HDR

Do you have a preference for 4k UHD HDR discs?


----------



## robc1976

Just went from 138" screen to 158" screen's. I noticed when trying to adjust focus I couldn't get it quite as "crisp" unless it's just my eyes lol. Before I would adjust focus until it got blurry then adjust down until it got crisp, I was told to do this really close to the screen. With new screen when adjusting it goes in focus and out of focus much quicker when adjusting? Is this because new screen is larger and I had to zoom in more? 

When I got new screen I just put in 16:9, 2.39, 2.40 content and zoomed to fit screen, then used lens shift to center it

Do you guys use the sharpness setting at all?


----------



## ht guy

Shane M said:


> As far as I can tell, the 5040 doesn't really have any shutdown sequence. Could I safely install a power switch in-line with it and use that to control on/off? Assuming I'm not being stupid and cycling power repeatedly in a short period of time..


If you turn it on right after turning it off, the fan comes on turbo-style. My recommendation would be to not put it on a switch.


----------



## rustolemite

Another dumb question when watching a 4K disc on my Sony UBP-X800 this is the color depth and fomat:
12Bit 4:2:2
BT.2020 HDR2

But when watching Netflix on the Sony and watching a 4K/HDR stream "Daredevil" these are the settings I get:
8Bit 4:2:0
BT.709 SDR

Should the depth and format be the same? Is there a way to make that work? Also get same on Netflix using Nvidia Shield.

Thanks


----------



## Oledurt

Lesmor said:


> Thanks for the clarification
> 
> So you have two settings
> 
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema uses the P3 filter and you strip off HDR
> 
> 
> 
> Bright Cinema does not use the P3 filter and you preserve HDR
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a preference for 4k UHD HDR discs?




This is correct. I prefer the digital cinema setting with HDR stripped, and here is why...No matter how you slice it this projector does not have the nits to pull off HDR properly.


It does, however reach over 90% of the P3 Colorspace. So I chose to focus on what it can do well. Perhaps in a few years they will figure out a way to implement HDR in projectors more effectively.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

Oledurt said:


> This is correct. I prefer the digital cinema setting with HDR stripped, and here is why...No matter how you slice it this projector does not have the nits to pull off HDR properly.
> 
> 
> It does, however reach over 90% of the P3 Colorspace. So I chose to focus on what it can do well. Perhaps in a few years they will figure out a way to implement HDR in projectors more effectively.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Many thanks
That makes sense, I will now modify one of my Epson memories to reflect your Digital Cinema settings


----------



## dholmes54

GeneHT said:


> In the settings you can set the PJ to power up when the power is turned on from in-line power switch. I am using this option since the projector is ceiling mounted it is hard to get at the PJ switch. I am also powering it up and down through power line filter that sequences through all the equipment in the HT when I do a power up or power down. I haven't had any problems and I haven't seen any posts saying you can not do this.
> 
> If anyone has seen or heard anything please post it.
> 
> I know in the past I had a BenQ DLP PJ that when powered down the fan would go to high speed to cool down before it would shut off, but this PJ doesn't seem to do that.


I would like to know about shutting down my 6040 doesnt show anything on the screen like the manual says,it just shuts off when I push the standby or power button.


----------



## Bob Sorel

> (4K HDR physical discs)
> 12Bit 4:2:2
> BT.2020 HDR2
> 
> But when watching Netflix on the Sony and watching a 4K/HDR stream "Daredevil" these are the settings I get:
> 8Bit 4:2:0
> BT.709 SDR
> 
> Should the depth and format be the same? Is there a way to make that work? Also get same on Netflix using Nvidia Shield.


That is the same question I would like answered. And more importantly, what's the solution? My interpretation is that HDR is passing through my AVR and reaching the 5040 properly, while Netflix (You Tube for me) is reaching the projector as SDR, and I have no explanation on why this is happening.


----------



## jwhn

rustolemite said:


> Can I get a link to a HDMI cable that's at least 40ft? Most I have asked elsewhere just say HDMI 2.0 and that's it, would like a link for me to purchase.
> 
> Thanks.


I sent you a link previously. Not sure if you saw it...


----------



## Seawater

*Finished Reading Thread*

Finally finished reading this 5040 thread. I upgraded to a 5040 from a 5020. Which luckily I sold. Thanks Dave for your Harpervision settings. Plan on trying those out. There is a lot of great input here. I photograph a lot and the similarities are amazing. While Levels. Black levels. HDR. Etc. I have a question on lens settings. I wear glasses. If I adjust the lens on the 5040 to my vision. When I watch it without my wife or guests. Will it work without me wearing glasses? The diopter on a camera does this. I'm wondering if I can adjust it to my eyesight and save it to memory.


----------



## rustolemite

jwhn said:


> I sent you a link previously. Not sure if you saw it...


Sorry guess I missed it can you please send one again?

Thanks.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Seawater said:


> Finally finished reading this 5040 thread. I upgraded to a 5040 from a 5020. Which luckily I sold. Thanks Dave for your Harpervision settings. Plan on trying those out. There is a lot of great input here. I photograph a lot and the similarities are amazing. While Levels. Black levels. HDR. Etc. I have a question on lens settings. I wear glasses. If I adjust the lens on the 5040 to my vision. When I watch it without my wife or guests. Will it work without me wearing glasses? The diopter on a camera does this. I'm wondering if I can adjust it to my eyesight and save it to memory.


I don't think the PJ lens will replace for your glasses.
You should wear glasses while watching and that solves all problems (like in real world)


----------



## Seawater

aaranddeeman said:


> I don't think the PJ lens will replace for your glasses.
> You should wear glasses while watching and that solves all problems (like in real world)


It works on cameras in the real world.


----------



## above1

rustolemite said:


> Dumb question but other than the fan should there be any other noises coming from the projector? I have it ECO mode, does the fan run all the time or just when needed? I swear I am hearing some other mechanical noise.
> Also when switching inputs on my AVR it seems like the fan stops till it detects another signal.


Try turning off "IMAGE ENHANCEMENT" a.k.a. "4K IMAGE ENHANCEMNT" and turning it back on and see if the noise stops and starts. 
Image Enhancement turns off automatically when there is no signal input and back on when one is present if the option is set to "ON"


If the noise stops and starts with that then it's just that. I got a refurb unit from Epson because of an optical block issue with my original one and the one I got from them sounded like a mini fridge compressor when 4K image enhancement turns on. I returned it and am waiting for another.


My original one, which I kept until I get a good working one, Is pretty silent when running in eco and medium power modes right above my head.


----------



## rjguk

Seawater said:


> Finally finished reading this 5040 thread. I upgraded to a 5040 from a 5020. Which luckily I sold. Thanks Dave for your Harpervision settings. Plan on trying those out. There is a lot of great input here. I photograph a lot and the similarities are amazing. While Levels. Black levels. HDR. Etc. I have a question on lens settings. I wear glasses. If I adjust the lens on the 5040 to my vision. When I watch it without my wife or guests. Will it work without me wearing glasses? The diopter on a camera does this. I'm wondering if I can adjust it to my eyesight and save it to memory.


The thing is that the projected image from the PJ is either in sharp focus on the screen or it isn't. The diopter control on a camera eyepiece or binoculars can alter the plane of where your eye sees an image since that type of image doesn't depend on a physical plane of focus like a screen - it is a virtual image where there is some adjustment in focus distance or comfort via the diopter adjustment.

As soon as you focus an image correctly on a screen it 'fixes' it to that plane, then your eyes have to observe the reflection from that fixed physical screen. If it isn't perfectly in focus on the screen then no amount of eyeglass or other optical correction will make it sharp. Imagine if it was a poster stuck up on the screen and use the appropriate glasses for that distance to get the sharpest image. It will be the same image for everybody irrespective of their quality of vision.


----------



## ht guy

Oledurt said:


> This is correct. I prefer the digital cinema setting with HDR stripped, and here is why...No matter how you slice it this projector does not have the nits to pull off HDR properly.
> 
> 
> It does, however reach over 90% of the P3 Colorspace. So I chose to focus on what it can do well. Perhaps in a few years they will figure out a way to implement HDR in projectors more effectively.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





Lesmor said:


> Many thanks
> That makes sense, I will now modify one of my Epson memories to reflect your Digital Cinema settings


...which will require an HDFury to strip HDR? Correct?


----------



## Lesmor

ht guy said:


> ...which will require an HDFury to strip HDR? Correct?


Although at the moment it doesn't seem to work 100% I will be using my Oppo 203 to strip metadata
I am always interested in owner's settings and add them to my PJ memories
I also use Harpevison settings so will trial both options


----------



## Dave Harper

webmst said:


> Mr. Dave Harper - Quick Question
> Sir - did you end up getting a decent SDR setup for your Epson 5030/6030 prejector before you let it go ?


I haven't had a 5030 in a very long time. Do you mean the 5040?




jaggajatt said:


> Dave would you mind sharing your CMS (RGBCMY) setting for HV HDR?





aaranddeeman said:


> He doesn't have the 5040 anymore I believe (unless he has jotted down those settings)




Yes that's right. I sold the 3 I had for my testing, a 5040, an RS600 and an LS10000. I now have an Epson LS10500. 

I'll check what I have in my records for those settings. I think I posted them in this thread somewhere. 

I'm attaching what images I have of menus for SDR rec709. The CMS I need to find that still. 














rustolemite said:


> Another dumb question when watching a 4K disc on my Sony UBP-X800 this is the color depth and fomat:
> 
> 12Bit 4:2:2
> 
> BT.2020 HDR2
> 
> 
> 
> But when watching Netflix on the Sony and watching a 4K/HDR stream "Daredevil" these are the settings I get:
> 
> 8Bit 4:2:0
> 
> BT.709 SDR
> 
> 
> 
> Should the depth and format be the same? Is there a way to make that work? Also get same on Netflix using Nvidia Shield.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks





Bob Sorel said:


> That is the same question I would like answered. And more importantly, what's the solution? My interpretation is that HDR is passing through my AVR and reaching the 5040 properly, while Netflix (You Tube for me) is reaching the projector as SDR, and I have no explanation on why this is happening.



The 5040 only 10Gbps HDMI capability. So therefore.....

For your UHD discs they play at 24p, so that makes the bandwidth enough to allow 10 bit HDR bt2020. 

For Netflix it defaults to 60p, making it too high of a bandwidth to allow 10bit with HDR bt2020, so the 5040's EDID tells it to send 8 bit SDR instead. 

If you have the nVidia Shield you can set it to output 24p for everything. It usually defaults to 60p when connecting to the 5040 (and the LS10500 I just installed), so you have to go into the Display Settings menu and manually change it to 4K 24p and it will output 4K 24p 4:2:2 YCbCr 10 bit HDR bt2020.


----------



## ramiawad

As per Epson spec sheet, 5040 supports 100% P3 coverage, is it measured at 90% only ?

I'm thinking to get Epson 5040 or JVC RS400 (considering similar current close out price) and leaning towards the 5040 mainly due to 100% P3 coverage while RS400 lacks P3 filter and can achieve only around 85% coverage as per some reviews.

Thanks.


Oledurt said:


> This is correct. I prefer the digital cinema setting with HDR stripped, and here is why...No matter how you slice it this projector does not have the nits to pull off HDR properly.
> 
> 
> It does, however reach over 90% of the P3 Colorspace. So I chose to focus on what it can do well. Perhaps in a few years they will figure out a way to implement HDR in projectors more effectively.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Sorel

> The 5040 only 10Gbps HDMI capability. So therefore.....
> 
> For your UHD discs they play at 24p, so that makes the bandwidth enough to allow 10 bit HDR bt2020.
> 
> For Netflix it defaults to 60p, making it too high of a bandwidth to allow 10bit with HDR bt2020, so the 5040's EDID tells it to send 8 bit SDR instead.
> 
> If you have the nVidia Shield you can set it to output 24p for everything. It usually defaults to 60p when connecting to the 5040 (and the LS10500 I just installed), so you have to go into the Display Settings menu and manually change it to 4K 24p and it will output 4K 24p 4:2:2 YCbCr 10 bit HDR bt2020.


Great explanation, Dave! Now I get it...


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> I'm attaching what images I have of menus for SDR rec709. The CMS I need to find that still.


Dave, thanks for posting these settings.

Separate question for you - in prior posts you mentioned that you used Masciola's HDR patterns to help develop your HV settings. Can you please explain how you used them to do this?


----------



## Oledurt

ht guy said:


> ...which will require an HDFury to strip HDR? Correct?




I use the Panasonic DMP UB900, and with that player you need the HDFury to strip the HDR Metadata. I also own an OPPO 203 which has a feature to strip HDR.

Problem is that the OPPO is not very good at converting HDR to SDR. A lot of black crush going on with that feature. The Panasonic does it very well, and with the Dynamic Range Conversion feature you can extend the Contrast to give you a very HDR like image.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

ramiawad said:


> As per Epson spec sheet, 5040 supports 100% P3 coverage, is it measured at 90% only ?
> 
> I'm thinking to get Epson 5040 or JVC RS400 (considering similar current close out price) and leaning towards the 5040 mainly due to 100% P3 coverage while RS400 lacks P3 filter and can achieve only around 85% coverage as per some reviews.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk




It is very good at hitting most of the P3 colorspace. 100% not sure about that one, but you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between 90% or 100%.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## am2model3

Basbear said:


> Ive never seen so many problems/issues shared with great results......


. Amen! Its the limiting 10.2gbps. You want 18gbps hdmi inputs


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> It is very good at hitting most of the P3 colorspace. 100% not sure about that one, but you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between 90% or 100%.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I believe you were talking about that 90% in reference to when you used the Bright Cinema settings without the P3 Filter, right? With the filter in Digital Cinema Mode the only one that doesn't reach full P3 is green. That gets to like 95% iirc. 



jwhn said:


> Dave, thanks for posting these settings.
> 
> 
> 
> Separate question for you - in prior posts you mentioned that you used Masciola's HDR patterns to help develop your HV settings. Can you please explain how you used them to do this?



Once I confirm I have HDR coming in and then switch to SDR mode and the custom gamma, I use the Masciola's patterns just as one would use any calibration disc or files. I check the black/white levels using the Black/white clipping patterns (use 1,000 Nits as reference for white clip point). Then I check things like color and tint with the color bars and sharpness with the Sharpness pattern (these are all in the Basic Patterns Menu)

Then I go through the more advanced menus and use the greyscale and RGBCMY 10% boxes to calibrate them with my meter.


----------



## Oledurt

If anyone wants me to post pics of any scenes with my settings let me know and I will oblige.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## john barlow

Bob Sorel said:


> Great explanation, Dave! Now I get it...


Thanks, anyone need a Roku Ultra. I hate this thing. I'm picking up the shield to go with our new gaming PC. Nvidia to the rescue.


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> I believe you were talking about that 90% in reference to when you used the Bright Cinema settings without the P3 Filter, right? With the filter in Digital Cinema Mode the only one that doesn't reach full P3 is green. That gets to like 95% iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I confirm I have HDR coming in and then switch to SDR mode and the custom gamma, I use the Masciola's patterns just as one would use any calibration disc or files. I check the black/white levels using the Black/white clipping patterns (use 1,000 Nits as reference for white clip point). Then I check things like color and tint with the color bars and sharpness with the Sharpness pattern (these are all in the Basic Patterns Menu)
> 
> Then I go through the more advanced menus and use the greyscale and RGBCMY 10% boxes to calibrate them with my meter.




Ok thanks for this. And do you use HD Fury to make sure it is sending HDR?

Also, and I may be misunderstanding here, the 5040ub is only capable of somewhere around 250 nits correct? So what is the rationale for setting it at 1000 reference for clipping point?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

above1 said:


> Try turning off "IMAGE ENHANCEMENT" a.k.a. "4K IMAGE ENHANCEMNT" and turning it back on and see if the noise stops and starts.
> Image Enhancement turns off automatically when there is no signal input and back on when one is present if the option is set to "ON"
> 
> 
> If the noise stops and starts with that then it's just that. I got a refurb unit from Epson because of an optical block issue with my original one and the one I got from them sounded like a mini fridge compressor when 4K image enhancement turns on. I returned it and am waiting for another.
> 
> 
> My original one, which I kept until I get a good working one, Is pretty silent when running in eco and medium power modes right above my head.


Think that was it, thanks alot.


----------



## rustolemite

Bob Sorel said:


> Great explanation, Dave! Now I get it...


Same here, thanks.


----------



## rustolemite

Dave Harper said:


> I haven't had a 5030 in a very long time. Do you mean the 5040?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes that's right. I sold the 3 I had for my testing, a 5040, an RS600 and an LS10000. I now have an Epson LS10500.
> 
> I'll check what I have in my records for those settings. I think I posted them in this thread somewhere.
> 
> I'm attaching what images I have of menus for SDR rec709. The CMS I need to find that still.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 5040 only 10Gbps HDMI capability. So therefore.....
> 
> For your UHD discs they play at 24p, so that makes the bandwidth enough to allow 10 bit HDR bt2020.
> 
> For Netflix it defaults to 60p, making it too high of a bandwidth to allow 10bit with HDR bt2020, so the 5040's EDID tells it to send 8 bit SDR instead.
> 
> If you have the nVidia Shield you can set it to output 24p for everything. It usually defaults to 60p when connecting to the 5040 (and the LS10500 I just installed), so you have to go into the Display Settings menu and manually change it to 4K 24p and it will output 4K 24p 4:2:2 YCbCr 10 bit HDR bt2020.


Thank you very much for the info the picture is still amazing but just wanted to make sure I didn't have any settings wrong. Thanks again, Dave.


----------



## Migeye

Hi All,

Maybe already answered here, but are the two HDMI ports exactly the same signal wise?


----------



## Holy Sith

Migeye said:


> Hi All,
> 
> Maybe already answered here, but are the two HDMI ports exactly the same signal wise?


No. You need to use HDMI1 for 4K/HDR. HDMI2 is just for 1080p afaik. I'm sure there is much more detailed information earlier in the thread (and of course in the user manual ).


----------



## Migeye

Holy Sith said:


> No. You need to use HDMI1 for 4K/HDR. HDMI2 is just for 1080p afaik. I'm sure there is much more detailed information earlier in the thread (and of course in the user manual ).



Thanks for your answer.


----------



## rupedogg24

Oledurt said:


> If anyone wants me to post pics of any scenes with my settings let me know and I will oblige.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I messed with your bright cinema settings and love them. The custom gamma works well with my projector. Appreciate you putting in the work. Let's see what those digital cinema pics look like. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

I am having my calibrator over next saturday to give me settings for digital cinema with hdr stripped. and to play around with the settings on the panasonic dmp ub900 uhd player. I will let you know.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

rupedogg24 said:


> I messed with your bright cinema settings and love them. The custom gamma works well with my projector. Appreciate you putting in the work. Let's see what those digital cinema pics look like.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


I agree. His bright cinema settings are amazing. Even better than Dave's settings (in my room, not saying they would be better for everyone) which were a significant step up from what I was using. 

Does anyone know if someone has posted settings for 1080p that would relatively be as impressive as what these 2 guys did for 4K disks?


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> I am having my calibrator over next saturday to give me settings for digital cinema with hdr stripped. and to play around with the settings on the panasonic dmp ub900 uhd player. I will let you know.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 very interested in this, trying to compare your settings and harpervision and they both have strengths. Make is very hard to decide lol! 

Yours really makes lights abs colors pop, Dave has really good blacklevels.

Yours is just a bit dark for me but is very, very crisp (hard to explain).

Dave's has a bit better brightness but yours has crisper lines in light scenes.

I tested this on assassins creed wich is a dark minel movie, will be testing this on another because they are so close.

I think I need to turn up brightness a few clicks on your settings. I went up 4-5 clicks with Dave's.

What gain screen do you have? I have a 1.1


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> very interested in this, trying to compare your settings and harpervision and they both have strengths. Make is very hard to decide lol!
> 
> 
> 
> Yours really makes lights abs colors pop, Dave has really good blacklevels.
> 
> 
> 
> Yours is just a bit dark for me but is very, very crisp (hard to explain).
> 
> 
> 
> Dave's has a bit better brightness but yours has crisper lines in light scenes.
> 
> 
> 
> I tested this on assassins creed wich is a dark minel movie, will be testing this on another because they are so close.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I need to turn up brightness a few clicks on your settings. I went up 4-5 clicks with Dave's.
> 
> 
> 
> What gain screen do you have? I have a 1.1




1.1 gain 125 inch screen


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

So another dumb question I am using an Elite 120" with my 5040 is there any reason to not get the geomtry correct when looking at the test pattern? I can get the left/right to even out. The only place it really shows up is when using the HTPC but would really like to get this right. I did have to adjust one of the feet to get it close but still now 100%.

Thanks


----------



## ndabunka

Dave Harper said:


> ndabunka!!! Where have you been sir? I've been waiting for you to reply here. I don't think I've heard from you since the first time I had a 5040 here. Glad to see you still have one. Try my HarperVision settings.


Dave!
Only been on here sporadically as I decided to reduce my stress and was on way too many boards. I've been toying with the idea of getting a classic vette so have been pretty much isolated to research on those forums for the past few months. I do still have the 5040ub but haven't tried any different settings. I'll dig through this thread to see what they are and try them something this week.


----------



## ndabunka

robc1976 said:


> very interested in this, trying to compare your settings and harpervision and they both have strengths... I tested this on* assassins creed* wich is a dark minel movie


Maybe a stupid question but did you test using 4K or the Blu-Ray version of AC?


----------



## robc1976

ndabunka said:


> Maybe a stupid question but did you test using 4K or the Blu-Ray version of AC?


 4K uhd


----------



## panman40

Sometime ago now in this thread I read that a few owners were using HDMI level Expanded, I've been wanting to experiment with this but no matter what settings I change on my players or the Epson that option is always greyed out and non selectable,
Any idea what it is I need to change so it's available?.

Thanks.


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> Sorry to crash the party but here are my settings for HDR in their entirety...Enjoy.
> 
> Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
> 
> Brightness = 50
> Contrast = 49
> Color Saturation = 50
> Tint = 50
> Color Temp = 4
> Skin Tone = 4
> Offset R = 50
> Offser G = 50
> Offset B = 51
> Gain R = 50
> Gain G = 50
> Gain B = 43
> 
> Power Consumption = Medium
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 53,50,50
> G 40,94,27
> B 61,49,47
> C 59,46,44
> M 62,50,50
> Y 37,50,48
> 
> Auto Iris = Off
> Epson Super White = Off
> Lens Iris = 0
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0
> 
> 
> Your welcome...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 question, what do you set "HDMI video range" at?


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> question, what do you set "HDMI video range" at?




normal.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> normal.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 Thank you, one more question "image processing" fine? 

I found sweet spot for your settings and think your settings are currently the best out there. The lights, the color pops and the sharpness of your settings are jaw dropping

I upped brightness +2 clicks
I changed gamma to +1 and that really brought out shadow detail.

I think I needed more brightness because of my larger screen.

My theater like yours is completely dark, dark walls ECT.


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> robc1976 said:
> 
> 
> 
> question, what do you set "HDMI video range" at?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> normal.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Is that normal greyed out or can you select expanded ?, 

Thanks.


----------



## Bigfire

webmst said:


> For any newbies - a Word document with most of the settings and tech explainations for Epson 504/6040


Bless you. I've never felt so out of my depth as trying to read through this thread for calibration help.


----------



## Lesmor

The HDMI video range setting is controversial as I have read that for an Epson Projector you should use expanded
I do realise that this is normally a PC setting

But an interesting observation is when using Natural for Rec.709 SDR Blu-ray

With HDMI on Auto the S&M test disc clipping pattern shows some empty (clipped) boxes and the xvycc box is filled when S&M says xvycc should be empty (clipped)
Also the contrast setting is blown (clipped) unless you use Superwhite On

Switching to HDMI extended and voila all the clipping pattern boxes are filled and the xvycc box is empty (clipped) as it should be.
The contrast setting shows full range boxes without having to resort to Superwhite
Brightness also shows BTB

Depending which HDMI video range you use the setting values change
HDMI Auto and Brightness is higher than contrast
HDMI expanded Brightness is lower than contrast

I only have the S&M disc for calibration and *HDMI expanded* is the only way it shows properly


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> The HDMI video range setting is controversial as I have read that for an Epson Projector you should use expanded
> I do realise that this is normally a PC setting
> 
> But an interesting observation is when using Natural for Rec.709 SDR Blu-ray
> 
> With HDMI on Auto the S&M test disc clipping pattern shows some empty boxes and the xvycc box is filled when S&M says xvycc should be empty
> Also the contrast setting is blown unless you use Superwhite On
> 
> Switching to HDMI extended and voila all the clipping pattern boxes are filled and the xvycc box is empty
> The contrast setting shows full range boxes without having to resort to Superwhite
> Brightness also shows BTB
> 
> Depending which HDMI video range you use the setting values change
> HDMI Auto and Brightness is higher than contrast
> HDMI expanded Brightness is lower than contrast
> 
> I only have the S&M disc for calibration and *HDMI expanded* is the only way it shows properly


Really wish I could try this Andy but no matter how I set the pj or player settings the hdmi video range is greyed out.


----------



## Holy Sith

Lesmor said:


> The HDMI video range setting is controversial as I have read that for an Epson Projector you should use expanded
> I do realise that this is normally a PC setting
> 
> But an interesting observation is when using Natural for Rec.709 SDR Blu-ray
> 
> With HDMI on Auto the S&M test disc clipping pattern shows some empty boxes and the xvycc box is filled when S&M says xvycc should be empty
> Also the contrast setting is blown unless you use Superwhite On
> 
> Switching to HDMI extended and voila all the clipping pattern boxes are filled and the xvycc box is empty
> The contrast setting shows full range boxes without having to resort to Superwhite
> Brightness also shows BTB
> 
> Depending which HDMI video range you use the setting values change
> HDMI Auto and Brightness is higher than contrast
> HDMI expanded Brightness is lower than contrast
> 
> I only have the S&M disc for calibration and *HDMI expanded* is the only way it shows properly


It's the same for me when I use the built-in Xbox One video calibration patterns. The only way I can get WTW and BTB to show in the test patterns is to switch to expanded HDMI. I've read several posts saying it's not correct for video signals, etc but I just feel better seeing the BTB and WTW to know exactly where the limits are...otherwise it's all just guesswork for me. As you said, with expanded HDMI, I have my brightness set lower (around 42) and the contrast higher (at 69 I think). I even used the same memory setting on my Samsung UBD with the old THX Optimizer (I think on the Wall-E blu-ray) and got the same results.

Not sure how to help you panman but I seem to be able to select between the HDMI options on both HDMI inputs (Samsung UBD is connected to HDMI 1 and Xbox One goes via my AVR to HDMI 2). Not seen it greyed out so far.

I still need to get an HDR calibration disc to get my brightness and contrast settings right for UHD (I don't have any Sony UHDs yet so can't use their "hidden" menu ).


----------



## Lesmor

panman40 said:


> Really wish I could try this Andy but no matter how I set the pj or player settings the hdmi video range is greyed out.


Hi Martin
I am using a Oppo 203 will check with my ub700 later


----------



## panman40

Thanks guys, I can't seem to leave a 'thanks' where needed as the forum layout seems to have changed via my phone.

May I ask if the hdmi video range is still selectable when playing a uhd/HDR disc ?.

Thank you.


----------



## Holy Sith

panman40 said:


> Thanks guys, I can't seem to leave a 'thanks' where needed as the forum layout seems to have changed via my phone.
> 
> May I ask if the hdmi video range is still selectable when playing a uhd/HDR disc ?.
> 
> Thank you.


Good question. Well presented . I think my UHD memory uses the standard HDMI range but I'll have to remember to check that when I get home tonight.


----------



## Juiced46

I have been trying to sift through this thread and others on the internet about this projector being used with an Xbox One S and PS4 Pro and the info from what I understand is, it will not do 4k60 with some people reporting HDR issues and other compatibility issues. Have these issues been sorted out? 

So what is the current verdict on this?

I currently have an Epson 5030ub. With Xbox One X on the way this fall, I plan on buying it. Right now I have an Xbox One S and PS4. I plan on purchasing a PS4 Pro and Xbox One X(Scorpio) ( I understand we don't have all the into on this yet, but we know it will be 4k)

Would it be worth purchasing the 5040 by the fall or wait for better 4K hardware? I want to have everything ready for when the Xbox One X arrives as I will be buying a new receiver as well since my receiver does not support HDCP 2.2. 

I am just trying to plan ahead here since I will be dropping around $4000-$5000 total, between the new Projector, 2 systems and a new receiver.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Juiced46 said:


> I have been trying to sift through this thread and others on the internet about this projector being used with an Xbox One S and PS4 Pro and the info from what I understand is, it will not do 4k60 with some people reporting HDR issues and other compatibility issues. Have these issues been sorted out?
> 
> So what is the current verdict on this?
> 
> I currently have an Epson 5030ub. With Xbox One X on the way this fall, I plan on buying it. Right now I have an Xbox One S and PS4. I plan on purchasing a PS4 Pro and Xbox One X(Scorpio) ( I understand we don't have all the into on this yet, but we know it will be 4k)
> 
> Would it be worth purchasing the 5040 by the fall or wait for better 4K hardware? I want to have everything ready for when the Xbox One X arrives as I will be buying a new receiver as well since my receiver does not support HDCP 2.2.
> 
> I am just trying to plan ahead here since I will be dropping around $4000-$5000 total, between the new Projector, 2 systems and a new receiver.




In 100% exactly the same situation and wondering the exact same things. The HDMI input limitation is the only thing holding me back with the 5040 and with the new Xbox I would think that would be important. I'm for sure going to see what comes out at CEDIA and go from there.


----------



## mikecoscia

*Panel alignment*

Hey guys, have a quick question about the panel alignment. I can't get everything lined up perfectly, there seems to be a yellows shadow to the right of the white line. I can move the blue and red to align with the white somewhat better, but I can't move that yellow line. I included a picture so you can see what I am talking about. On a normal image, text doesn't have a sharp edge, you can make out this yellow shadow on the right side. You have to be ontop of the image to see it though, but I imagine it is affecting my image sharpness/detail. Anyone else have this issue? Is this normal? Thanks appreciate the help!


----------



## Holy Sith

Holy Sith said:


> Good question. Well presented . I think my UHD memory uses the standard HDMI range but I'll have to remember to check that when I get home tonight.


Hey panman, after checking I can confirm that "Normal" and "Expanded" HDMI video range settings are still available during UHD playback. Resolution is at 3840 X 2160 23.97 Hz 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR (obviously on HDMI 1).


----------



## webmst

Bigfire said:


> Bless you. I've never felt so out of my depth as trying to read through this thread for calibration help.


 u r very welcome - but the real work is being done by people like Oledurt and Dave Harper, and everyone else who has contributed to this body of work for the 6040 and 5040 (not 5030 as I previously posted Dave 
for what 's it's worth - I believe this forum has materially added to the real world performance opportunites owners of this unit now have.
Which IMHO - is quite an achievement


----------



## panman40

Holy Sith said:


> Hey panman, after checking I can confirm that "Normal" and "Expanded" HDMI video range settings are still available during UHD playback. Resolution is at 3840 X 2160 23.97 Hz 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR (obviously on HDMI 1).


Thanks Holy sith, Lesmor checked his Panasonic player for me too and the option is still avaliable and not greyed out, this has got me completely stumped as to why it's always greyed out on my Epson . 
Both my players and Sky HD box run through my Yamaha AVR, I don't think it can be that though.


----------



## panman40

Holy Sith said:


> Hey panman, after checking I can confirm that "Normal" and "Expanded" HDMI video range settings are still available during UHD playback. Resolution is at 3840 X 2160 23.97 Hz 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR (obviously on HDMI 1).


I found the culprit, I had superwhite On lol .


----------



## GeneHT

Hi everyone:

I was wondering if anyone is using a tablet to replace all your remotes and control your Epson in your Home Theater.

Thanks

Gene


----------



## Bob Sorel

> The 5040 only 10Gbps HDMI capability. So therefore.....
> 
> For your UHD discs they play at 24p, so that makes the bandwidth enough to allow 10 bit HDR bt2020.
> 
> For Netflix it defaults to 60p, making it too high of a bandwidth to allow 10bit with HDR bt2020, so the 5040's EDID tells it to send 8 bit SDR instead.
> 
> If you have the nVidia Shield you can set it to output 24p for everything. It usually defaults to 60p when connecting to the 5040 (and the LS10500 I just installed), so you have to go into the Display Settings menu and manually change it to 4K 24p and it will output 4K 24p 4:2:2 YCbCr 10 bit HDR bt2020.


Dave, based on this information, which way do you recommend I go with this - Is it better to limit the source (Netflix, You Tube, etc.) to 24 hz, therefore allowing HDR to become engaged, and then using your HDR Harpervision settings to display as SDR, OR do you recommend that I allow the source to to use its default refresh rate of 60 hz, therefore connecting to the Epson in SDR mode, and then I can apply the Harpervision SDR settings? If I read your posts correctly, you do have 2 different settings, one which converts HDR to SDR and another that is straight SDR, right?

In short:

A - 24 hz---->HDR----> Harpervision HDR settings

or

B - 60 hz---->SDR-----> Harpervision SDR settings

Either way I end up with SDR, but each method takes a different path to get there...


----------



## prme19

Just bought the 5040ub projector from Best Buy and loving it. This is my first projector. I'm wondering what you guys use for a mount? I really prefer an undermount shelf due to its weight. Also, any suggestions for a good screen? Projector currently sits in a table, just behind the couch, about 11-12 ft away from the wall


----------



## socalsharky

prme19 said:


> Just bought the 5040ub projector from Best Buy and loving it. This is my first projector. I'm wondering what you guys use for a mount? I really prefer an undermount shelf due to its weight. Also, any suggestions for a good screen? Projector currently sits in a table, just behind the couch, about 11-12 ft away from the wall


Check out the Chief mounts. I have the RPA 357, which has an adapter plate that is specifically designed for the 5040. You can connect it directly to the ceiling, or with a piece of 1-1/2" black iron pipe if you buy a ceiling plate (Chief makes several types of ceiling plates). If mounted into ceiling joists, it is very sturdy. Chief's website sucks though, and there are no pictures of this specific mount. Call AVS or Projector People for info.

If you search this thread, there have been pics posted of this mount.

What is your budget for the screen? How big? What are the lighting conditions in your room?


----------



## prme19

socalsharky said:


> Check out the Chief mounts. I have the RPA 357, which has an adapter plate that is specifically designed for the 5040. You can connect it directly to the ceiling, or with a piece of 1-1/2" black iron pipe if you buy a ceiling plate (Chief makes several types of ceiling plates). If mounted into ceiling joists, it is very sturdy. Chief's website sucks though, and there are no pictures of this specific mount. Call AVS or Projector People for info.
> 
> If you search this thread, there have been pics posted of this mount.
> 
> What is your budget for the screen? How big? What are the lighting conditions in your room?


Thanks. I'll take a look at these Chief mounts.

I'm thinking under $300 for the screen, motorized if possible. Maybe 110-120 inches. My setup is in the basement, it gets very dark even during the day.


----------



## socalsharky

prme19 said:


> I'm thinking under $300 for the screen, motorized if possible. Maybe 110-120 inches.


Not sure that is even possible. The only decent screen I know of for less than $300 (in that size) would be the Silver Ticket. It's not motorized. You will probably have to up the budget. Maybe try posting in the screen section of the forum. Others may have ideas.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> very interested in this, trying to compare your settings and harpervision and they both have strengths. Make is very hard to decide lol!
> 
> 
> 
> *Yours really makes lights abs colors pop, Dave has really good blacklevels.*
> 
> 
> 
> Yours is just a bit dark for me but is very, very crisp (hard to explain).
> 
> 
> 
> Dave's has a bit better brightness but yours has crisper lines in light scenes.
> 
> 
> 
> I tested this on assassins creed wich is a dark minel movie, will be testing this on another because they are so close.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I need to turn up brightness a few clicks on your settings. I went up 4-5 clicks with Dave's.
> 
> 
> 
> What gain screen do you have? I have a 1.1



While I totally agree Oledurt's settings are amazing. (They're the precursor to HarperVision after all!), I think if you're saying his colors "pop" more than mine, then maybe something isn't quite setup right because his don't use the P3 Filter in BC mode so he isn't using the wider color gamut, but mine in DC mode do so they should be more saturated naturally and "pop" more in the same scenes where it's encoded to do so. 

What are your CMS RGBCMY settings? Did you use mine with HV?



Bob Sorel said:


> Dave, based on this information, which way do you recommend I go with this - Is it better to limit the source (Netflix, You Tube, etc.) to 24 hz, therefore allowing HDR to become engaged, and then using your HDR Harpervision settings to display as SDR, OR do you recommend that I allow the source to to use its default refresh rate of 60 hz, therefore connecting to the Epson in SDR mode, and then I can apply the Harpervision SDR settings? If I read your posts correctly, you do have 2 different settings, one which converts HDR to SDR and another that is straight SDR, right?
> 
> In short:
> 
> A - 24 hz---->HDR----> Harpervision HDR settings
> 
> or
> 
> B - 60 hz---->SDR-----> Harpervision SDR settings
> 
> Either way I end up with SDR, but each method takes a different path to get there...



For movies and a lot of drama type Tab shows, most of them are shot at 24p natively so the best is if course using 24p. 

For things like other tv shows and sports shot at 60p, you'll immediately notice stutter at 24p and you should change to 60p. 

I saw this very thing the other day when I watched some baseball on my Vue app. I had to immediately switch to 60p and all was well. 

99.99% of HDR movies use 24p. Except Billy Lynn of course, it's mastered using HFR 60p. 



jwhn said:


> Ok thanks for this. And do you use HD Fury to make sure it is sending HDR?
> 
> Also, and I may be misunderstanding here, the 5040ub is only capable of somewhere around 250 nits correct? So what is the rationale for setting it at 1000 reference for clipping point?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



You don't need the HDFury Linker with the 5040 because it already accepts HDR and allows you to select SDR manually and create a custom curve. 

Think of them differently. The 250 nits you're talking about is the projectors brightness, like lumens. 

The 1000 nits think of as the old rec709 white clipping patterns for video signals. HDR UHD discs are mastered, at least for now, usually using 1000, 4000 or 10000 nits (unlikely yet). For projectors it seems that clipping those peaks whites at about 1000 nits is the best compromise for the best HDR picture. If you peruse over to the JVC threads where the custom gamma curves and Arve's excellent tool with Manni's amazing curve settings, you'll see it's a personal preference really , but some discs seem to work better at different clipping points. I would say the lower lumens of the projector I would use a lower clip point like maybe 800 nits. A brighter projector like the 5040 you may get away with about 1200 nits clipping point. 



mikecoscia said:


> Hey guys, have a quick question about the panel alignment. I can't get everything lined up perfectly, there seems to be a yellows shadow to the right of the white line. I can move the blue and red to align with the white somewhat better, but I can't move that yellow line. I included a picture so you can see what I am talking about. On a normal image, text doesn't have a sharp edge, you can make out this yellow shadow on the right side. You have to be ontop of the image to see it though, but I imagine it is affecting my image sharpness/detail. Anyone else have this issue? Is this normal? Thanks appreciate the help!



Yellow is made up from the red and green, so it sounds like those two are bleeding a bit to the right. It's probably due to chromatic aberrations of the lens or even the unit not quite 100% level and perpendicular to the screen, or maybe even lens shift. 

It shouldn't have too much of a detrimental effect on the actual image, if at all, but you can mess around with lens shift and zoom and projector position to rule those out. 

We used to see this a lot with the old 3 gun CRT projectors where you have to mess with the lens angles/scheimpflug a lot to get them perfect for each color and then aligned properly. 

I wish these digitals had separate color Sharpness adjustments.


----------



## MississippiMan

prme19 said:


> Thanks. I'll take a look at these Chief mounts.
> 
> I'm thinking under $300 for the screen, motorized if possible. Maybe 110-120 inches. My setup is in the basement, it gets very dark even during the day.



The RPA357 is ideally suited to the job.

Get the best price from *Kirk Ritari at Projector People at ext. 2002.* Tell him you a AVS referral. (mention me and you get -0- extra off...  ) Ya gotta go through him or the price is / will be higher than $140.00

Also, ask him about the *Peerless ACC570 Ceiling Plate*. ($20.00) All the Cheif plates are of a smaller footprint, and more expensive.









(The latest version of the ACC570 has 4 Holes)


----------



## swyda038

*4k enhancement*

On my projectors settings the 4k enhancement option is always grayed out and I cannot access that menu. Am I missing something here? I have the most up to date firmware. Any thoughts?


----------



## achanonier

swyda038 said:


> On my projectors settings the 4k enhancement option is always grayed out and I cannot access that menu. Am I missing something here? I have the most up to date firmware. Any thoughts?


You're probably sending 4k signal. So the wobulation is always active.


----------



## achanonier

HI guys !

Am I the only one using the HDR dynamic range slide from the Panny player to get a great HDR picture from the Epson ?
Since I use this setting all settings are back to defaullt on the PJ.


----------



## steve0742003

prme19 said:


> Just bought the 5040ub projector from Best Buy and loving it. This is my first projector. I'm wondering what you guys use for a mount? I really prefer an undermount shelf due to its weight. Also, any suggestions for a good screen? Projector currently sits in a table, just behind the couch, about 11-12 ft away from the wall


I have mine sitting on this...

http://www.omnimount.com/products/av_wall_shelves/ecs/

It is very sturdy and well made. If there is a stud in the wall that is roughly facing the center of the screen this will work great.


----------



## steve0742003

prme19 said:


> Just bought the 5040ub projector from Best Buy and loving it. This is my first projector. I'm wondering what you guys use for a mount? I really prefer an undermount shelf due to its weight. Also, any suggestions for a good screen? Projector currently sits in a table, just behind the couch, about 11-12 ft away from the wall


I misunderstood your post and was thinking you wanted a wall shelf mount. I just noticed the distance from the back wall and the undermount comment... I think I need more coffee


----------



## mikecoscia

Dave Harper said:


> Yellow is made up from the red and green, so it sounds like those two are bleeding a bit to the right. It's probably due to chromatic aberrations of the lens or even the unit not quite 100% level and perpendicular to the screen, or maybe even lens shift.
> 
> It shouldn't have too much of a detrimental effect on the actual image, if at all, but you can mess around with lens shift and zoom and projector position to rule those out.
> 
> We used to see this a lot with the old 3 gun CRT projectors where you have to mess with the lens angles/scheimpflug a lot to get them perfect for each color and then aligned properly.
> 
> I wish these digitals had separate color Sharpness adjustments.


Thanks Dave, your always a huge help! I'll loosen a few screws on the projector amount and see if spinning it slightly to the left decrease the bleeding. I did use a tone of vertical lens shift, and some horizontal. I tried tilting the projector and keystoning, but it changed the ratio of the screen with the agressive keystone. Mounting these things in the perfect position relative to the screen is a pain! That or I just suck at it...lol.



achanonier said:


> HI guys !
> 
> Am I the only one using the HDR dynamic range slide from the Panny player to get a great HDR picture from the Epson ?
> Since I use this setting all settings are back to defaullt on the PJ.


Just picked up my panny a few days ago. I haven't had much time to play with it, I'll give slider a try with default projector settings!


----------



## Bret Konsdorf

Hey all. Newbie Here. My epson 5040ub will be arriving today and I am wondering what mounts you use. My current projector is about 1/3 the size so Im pretty sure Ill have to mount this thing to a shelf. Amazon has mounts ranging from 17 bucks to 50 so I am kind of lost...Any tips would be much appreciated. Thank you!


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> While I totally agree Oledurt's settings are amazing. (They're the precursor to HarperVision after all!), I think if you're saying his colors "pop" more than mine, then maybe something isn't quite setup right because his don't use the P3 Filter in BC mode so he isn't using the wider color gamut, but mine in DC mode do so they should be more saturated naturally and "pop" more in the same scenes where it's encoded to do so.
> 
> What are your CMS RGBCMY settings? Did you use mine with HV?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For movies and a lot of drama type Tab shows, most of them are shot at 24p natively so the best is if course using 24p.
> 
> For things like other tv shows and sports shot at 60p, you'll immediately notice stutter at 24p and you should change to 60p.
> 
> I saw this very thing the other day when I watched some baseball on my Vue app. I had to immediately switch to 60p and all was well.
> 
> 99.99% of HDR movies use 24p. Except Billy Lynn of course, it's mastered using HFR 60p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't need the HDFury Linker with the 5040 because it already accepts HDR and allows you to select SDR manually and create a custom curve.
> 
> Think of them differently. The 250 nits you're talking about is the projectors brightness, like lumens.
> 
> The 1000 nits think of as the old rec709 white clipping patterns for video signals. HDR UHD discs are mastered, at least for now, usually using 1000, 4000 or 10000 nits (unlikely yet). For projectors it seems that clipping those peaks whites at about 1000 nits is the best compromise for the best HDR picture. If you peruse over to the JVC threads where the custom gamma curves and Arve's excellent tool with Manni's amazing curve settings, you'll see it's a personal preference really , but some discs seem to work better at different clipping points. I would say the lower lumens of the projector I would use a lower clip point like maybe 800 nits. A brighter projector like the 5040 you may get away with about 1200 nits clipping point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yellow is made up from the red and green, so it sounds like those two are bleeding a bit to the right. It's probably due to chromatic aberrations of the lens or even the unit not quite 100% level and perpendicular to the screen, or maybe even lens shift.
> 
> It shouldn't have too much of a detrimental effect on the actual image, if at all, but you can mess around with lens shift and zoom and projector position to rule those out.
> 
> We used to see this a lot with the old 3 gun CRT projectors where you have to mess with the lens angles/scheimpflug a lot to get them perfect for each color and then aligned properly.
> 
> I wish these digitals had separate color Sharpness adjustments.


 your right again Dave!. In the signal menu it was set to hdr1, I guess you have to manually do this everytime? When I was going back and forth the settings in signal menu it transfer to other menu? 

So I inputed oledurt settings, switch it set to HDR1 ect then went and loaded other memory with your settings the signal menu was set to HDR1 instead of SDR like I saved it?. I guess you have to manual set it everytime?. That is really dumb lol

I also noticed image processing does this?. I set it to fast for games, then load a movie file and its still set to fast instead of fine.

Needless to say your settings are the best lol!. They where good with wrong settings lol! 

Using rgb all at default at 50


----------



## impetigo

Bret Konsdorf said:


> Hey all. Newbie Here. My epson 5040ub will be arriving today and I am wondering what mounts you use.





prme19 said:


> Just bought the 5040ub projector from Best Buy and loving it. This is my first projector. I'm wondering what you guys use for a mount?


I use one by PCMD, looks something like the pic below. Aluminum build, custom shaped plate to fit the mounting holes for the 5040ub (although it only accommodates 8 of the 9 mounting holes on the 5040ub, for some reason the front center hole is not covered/used).


----------



## Bret Konsdorf

impetigo said:


> I use one by PCMD, looks something like the pic below. Aluminum build, custom shaped plate to fit the mounting holes for the 5040ub (although it only accommodates 8 of the 9 mounting holes on the 5040ub, for some reason the front center hole is not covered/used).


Thanks Impetigo, I will check that mount out. I appreciate the input!


----------



## carp

prme19 said:


> Thanks. I'll take a look at these Chief mounts.
> 
> I'm thinking under $300 for the screen, motorized if possible. Maybe 110-120 inches. My setup is in the basement, it gets very dark even during the day.





socalsharky said:


> Not sure that is even possible. The only decent screen I know of for less than $300 (in that size) would be the Silver Ticket. It's not motorized. You will probably have to up the budget. Maybe try posting in the screen section of the forum. Others may have ideas.



Elite sells all kinds of motorized drop down screen in that size for between 200 and 300. Now, if you are going with an AT screen that wouldn't work for you . 

https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screen...&sr=8-6&keywords=motorized+projection+screens


----------



## Bejoy

achanonier said:


> HI guys !
> 
> Am I the only one using the HDR dynamic range slide from the Panny player to get a great HDR picture from the Epson ?
> Since I use this setting all settings are back to defaullt on the PJ.


I am using the HDR slider feature as well! It makes an incredible difference. I am getting the Epson calibrated at the end of August too.. On a side note, I still have the original firmware it came with in January. I still haven't done the update via USB. Its on my to do list, just haven't gotten around to downloading it, putting on USB, getting the ladder out, etc.. Quick question: what is the point of the Ethernet jack on the Epson if it doesn't do updates? I have it hard-wired but now I am wondering what the benefit of that is..


Still also considering the Oppo 203, but the HDR slider on the Panasonic makes me want to keep the UB900 paired with the Epson.


Thanks!


----------



## robc1976

socalsharky said:


> Not sure that is even possible. The only decent screen I know of for less than $300 (in that size) would be the Silver Ticket. It's not motorized. You will probably have to up the budget. Maybe try posting in the screen section of the forum. Others may have ideas.


 silverticket is a awesome screen, my buddy is actually mad that my screen picture is as good if not better than his $1200 screen lol


----------



## Bret Konsdorf

just hooked up the projector via VGA to my macbook. The whole screen has a wiggle effect to it...noticed it in the highlights of rogue one. Did I get a bad unit? Anyone else see thing odd behavior? almost like interpolation effect. I turned off every setting I can find and its still doing it.


----------



## MississippiMan

robc1976 said:


> silverticket is a awesome screen, my buddy is actually mad that my screen picture is as good if not better than his $1200 screen lol



Recent price increases on the ST Electric Retractable screens have made them far less competitive when matched against Elite & Monoprice. 

For instance...compare: 

150"er from Elite $586.00 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FTWJ1A/
150"e from ST $899.98
https://www.amazon.com/SME-169150-Silver-Ticket-Diagonal-Motorized/dp/B01BVSBBF2/

110"er from Elite $259.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H45LEU4/
112"er from ST $679.98
https://www.amazon.com/SME-169112-Silver-Ticket-Diagonal-Motorized/dp/B01BVS3010/

Shame that.....those ST prices represent almost a 100% increase from last year.

At least their Fixed Screens remain a value...for now. Great reviews and consumer demand have ST Marketing Execs salivating...and they are dripping greed all over us.


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> You don't need the HDFury Linker with the 5040 because it already accepts HDR and allows you to select SDR manually and create a custom curve.
> 
> Think of them differently. The 250 nits you're talking about is the projectors brightness, like lumens.
> 
> The 1000 nits think of as the old rec709 white clipping patterns for video signals. HDR UHD discs are mastered, at least for now, usually using 1000, 4000 or 10000 nits (unlikely yet). For projectors it seems that clipping those peaks whites at about 1000 nits is the best compromise for the best HDR picture. If you peruse over to the JVC threads where the custom gamma curves and Arve's excellent tool with Manni's amazing curve settings, you'll see it's a personal preference really , but some discs seem to work better at different clipping points. I would say the lower lumens of the projector I would use a lower clip point like maybe 800 nits. A brighter projector like the 5040 you may get away with about 1200 nits clipping point.



Okay gotcha. Making sense now. I took a look at the threads on Arve's tool. It appears this works for JVC but that there is not really an equivalent for Epson. Is there an objective way to create the custom gamma curve for HDR for the 5040? Or are you just creating the curves by eye?


----------



## MississippiMan

impetigo said:


> I use one by PCMD, looks something like the pic below. Aluminum build, custom shaped plate to fit the mounting holes for the 5040ub (although it only accommodates 8 of the 9 mounting holes on the 5040ub, for some reason the front center hole is not covered/used).


Not trying to be nasty here, but the mount you show is not a worth contender for a PJ the size of / expense of the 5040. It's not even in the same league as a Chief...nowhere near as robust or adjustable. Personally speaking, I would never use one for hanging a 24 lb+ projector over the heads of a Customer, let alone letting it's obvious .....well lets just say, 'it's inexpensiveness" show. 

Much the same as the Mounts found on Ebay, all it is is inexpensive....and only good for hanging >$599.00 PJs that weigh under 10 lbs. Even then, it's lack of adjust-ability and being able hold whatever adjustments that are made make them less than desirable.

I understand that everyone has their own budgets to deal with, but there are some compromises that should not be considered...

All that said, *impetigo,* I'm glad you happy with you choice, but it's really not one to suggest to other 5040ub owners.

IMHO, of course.


----------



## lcrenshaw7

I have a PlayStation 4 Pro. I can't manage to get Netflix or Vudu to play UHD. I can get UHD on my oppo 203 but not on the PlayStation. I was planning on using it for 4K streaming. Am I missing something?


----------



## k3nnis

Hi all, are the elite screens better of the budget brands compared to say silver ticket? Or Grandview.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> your right again Dave!. In the signal menu it was set to hdr1, I guess you have to manually do this everytime? When I was going back and forth the settings in signal menu it transfer to other menu?
> 
> 
> 
> So I inputed oledurt settings, switch it set to HDR1 ect then went and loaded other memory with your settings the signal menu was set to HDR1 instead of SDR like I saved it?. I guess you have to manual set it everytime?. That is really dumb lol
> 
> 
> 
> I also noticed image processing does this?. I set it to fast for games, then load a movie file and its still set to fast instead of fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say your settings are the best lol!. They where good with wrong settings lol!
> 
> 
> 
> Using rgb all at default at 50



I don't have to manually set mine each time. It stays in SDR mode unless I physically change it, but then it stays at whatever the last thing I set it to was. 

Which "RGB" are you talking about? The gains and cuts for greyscale, or the CMS RGBCMY? Either way I am pretty sure I posted an updated menu with RGB and CMS values, not all default 50s. 



jwhn said:


> Okay gotcha. Making sense now. I took a look at the threads on Arve's tool. It appears this works for JVC but that there is not really an equivalent for Epson. Is there an objective way to create the custom gamma curve for HDR for the 5040? Or are you just creating the curves by eye?



I start out with calibrated settings using mostly R. Masciola's patterns. Then since the Epsons, as you state, don't have the same custom gamma SW like the JVCs do, I go in the Epson's 9 point custom gamma and essentially replicate the "S" curve/EOTF of BT2084. Since each disc, projector, player, etc. acts a bit differently or is mastered differently then I go in with known great sources like The Revenant and tweak each point by eye to its maximum potential and visual effect. This is where I say I mix the scientific side with the artistic side, and also why I say to only use my settings as the baseline for your setup and then personally touch it up by a few clicks up or down in the gamma and elsewhere. Unfortunately too though, the Epson only has a 9 point gamma and we are using SDR mode which starts out in the 2.2 gamma range or so and as was the case with the LS10000, I seemed to bottom out in the very beginning of the curve. It seems to be ok though because image wise that's right where it seems to need to be! 



achanonier said:


> You're probably sending 4k signal. So the wobulation is always active.



Just to clarify, this projector does not use wobulation like some DLPs. It uses eShift which is a separate piece of optical glass that electronically angles itself between frames to shift the image up and to the right by half pixel to give you a perceived higher and closer to 4K resolution. It uses human's persistence of vision to work. 




mikecoscia said:


> Thanks Dave, your always a huge help! I'll loosen a few screws on the projector amount and see if spinning it slightly to the left decrease the bleeding. I did use a tone of vertical lens shift, and some horizontal. I tried tilting the projector and keystoning, but it changed the ratio of the screen with the agressive keystone. Mounting these things in the perfect position relative to the screen is a pain! That or I just suck at it...lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Just picked up my panny a few days ago. I haven't had much time to play with it, I'll give slider a try with default projector settings!




Do NOT use electronic keystone adjustments!!! It will destroy your native resolution capabilities and make your picture look like crap! This isn't a boardroom meeting or classroom we're installing here.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I don't have to manually set mine each time. It stays in SDR mode unless I physically change it, but then it stays at whatever the last thing I set it to was.
> 
> Which "RGB" are you talking about? The gains and cuts for greyscale, or the CMS RGBCMY? Either way I am pretty sure I posted an updated menu with RGB and CMS values, not all default 50s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start out with calibrated settings using mostly R. Masciola's patterns. Then since the Epsons, as you state, don't have the same custom gamma SW like the JVCs do, I go in the Epson's 9 point custom gamma and essentially replicate the "S" curve/EOTF of BT2084. Since each disc, projector, player, etc. acts a bit differently or is mastered differently then I go in with known great sources like The Revenant and tweak each point by eye to its maximum potential and visual effect. This is where I say I mix the scientific side with the artistic side, and also why I say to only use my settings as the baseline for your setup and then personally touch it up by a few clicks up or down in the gamma and elsewhere. Unfortunately too though, the Epson only has a 9 point gamma and we are using SDR mode which starts out in the 2.2 gamma range or so and as was the case with the LS10000, I seemed to bottom out in the very beginning of the curve. It seems to be ok though because image wise that's right where it seems to need to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clarify, this projector does not use wobulation like some DLPs. It uses eShift which is a separate piece of optical glass that electronically angles itself between frames to shift the image up and to the right by half pixel to give you a perceived higher and closer to 4K resolution. It uses human's persistence of vision to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do NOT use electronic keystone adjustments!!! It will destroy your native resolution capabilities and make your picture look like crap! This isn't a boardroom meeting or classroom we're installing here.


 what?. Dave I have never seen a CMS for harper vision, you stated to leave that at default 50, if you have posted this can you repost it? REALLY would love to have it. How long ago do you think you posted it? I have gains calibrated.

I have keystone at -3?? This hurts the image? Should I set this to "0"?


----------



## ndabunka

prme19 said:


> Thanks. I'll take a look at these Chief mounts.
> 
> I'm thinking under $300 for the screen, motorized if possible. Maybe 110-120 inches. My setup is in the basement, it gets very dark even during the day.


I also used a Chief mount and it works VERY well. I have a motorized screen in your size range I would sell you for your price point. It is old but very reliable. No remote but works with a wall switch. I replaced it with a newer Acoustically Transparent. PM me if you want more details.

Jay


----------



## robc1976

k3nnis said:


> Hi all, are the elite screens better of the budget brands compared to say silver ticket? Or Grandview.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 have both, silver ticket is better for sure


----------



## k3nnis

robc1976 said:


> have both, silver ticket is better for sure




Ok thanks. When you say better, is it the picture quality better or build quality or both?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## anwar79

Need some help with some projector settings.

1) Firmware is 1.08. I see that there is an updated firmware 1.09 on epson site. Is there any reason I need to update the firmware? 
2) From reading all the posts, it seems that Roku ultra (amazon and Netflix) is not capable of displaying 4K HDR? I have tried changing all the settings, but in projection info location it always show SDR.


----------



## spirithockey79

For any Oppo 203 owners, have you tried using the strip HDR feature (to keep bt2020) and combine bright cinema with it? I’ve been messing around with HarperVision settings with Dig Cin and Oledurt’s HDR settings with Bright Cinema, but then tried stripping HDR and used Bright Cinema and was blown away. I think I used a target luminance on the Oppo of 150 or 100. Just curious on feedback from others that have tried this. This may be my default HDR setup from now on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ayrton

spirithockey79 said:


> For any Oppo 203 owners, have you tried using the strip HDR feature (to keep bt2020) and combine bright cinema with it? I’ve been messing around with HarperVision settings with Dig Cin and Oledurt’s HDR settings with Bright Cinema, but then tried stripping HDR and used Bright Cinema and was blown away. I think I used a target luminance on the Oppo of 150 or 100. Just curious on feedback from others that have tried this. This may be my default HDR setup from now on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I am currently using Harpervision, which is great. Will try stripping HDR and using Bright Cinema.. 

Thanks for the info.. (using a 203)


----------



## robc1976

k3nnis said:


> Ok thanks. When you say better, is it the picture quality better or build quality or both?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Silver ticket is much sturdier.
Silver ticket has better picture

Elite is easier to put together with less hassle


----------



## k3nnis

Ok thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## impetigo

Bret Konsdorf said:


> Thanks Impetigo, I will check that mount out. I appreciate the input!


I should also mention that it's U.S. made (if you care about that kind of thing) and relatively cheap. Only $60 for a custom aluminum mount. I like it because it's low profile, has a simple/clean design, and if you change projector later you can just change out the custom plate the attaches to the projector and leave the ceiling plate attached to the ceiling. I've had mine for a few years (and used with a different projector before) and love it. Very secure and when tightened up it doesn't move or wobble too easily.



MississippiMan said:


> Not trying to be nasty here, but the mount you show is not a worth contender for a PJ the size of / expense of the 5040. It's not even in the same league as a Chief...nowhere near as robust or adjustable. Personally speaking, I would never use one for hanging a 24 lb+ projector over the heads of a Customer, let alone letting it's obvious .....well lets just say, 'it's inexpensiveness" show.


Wow, I didn't expect anyone to have such a strong negative reaction to the PCMD mount! I can see how people like the Chief mounts for a dedicated home theater installations where you run cables inside the ceiling and want a more low profile look. I run mine in my family room that doubles as a HT but mostly serves as play area for the kids and so I don't really care too much how it looks, but I always thought that it looks nice, but obviously it's a matter of personal taste.


----------



## JamesVG81

I just ordered a 5040ub. I currently own a 5030ub. I have a 2:35.1 Elite AT screen, 138inch. One of the main reasons for getting the 5040ub. Tired of having to get up every time I need to change aspect ratio's. I have a Chief mount for my 5030ub , Is there a model number for just the plate so I don't have to spend the money on a whole mount that I don't need? Thanks... How big of any upgrade am I going to see in picture ? I have a Xbox One s for a player and a marantz sr6011 receiver.


----------



## rustolemite

Dave Harper said:


> I don't have to manually set mine each time. It stays in SDR mode unless I physically change it, but then it stays at whatever the last thing I set it to was.
> 
> Which "RGB" are you talking about? The gains and cuts for greyscale, or the CMS RGBCMY? Either way I am pretty sure I posted an updated menu with RGB and CMS values, not all default 50s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I start out with calibrated settings using mostly R. Masciola's patterns. Then since the Epsons, as you state, don't have the same custom gamma SW like the JVCs do, I go in the Epson's 9 point custom gamma and essentially replicate the "S" curve/EOTF of BT2084. Since each disc, projector, player, etc. acts a bit differently or is mastered differently then I go in with known great sources like The Revenant and tweak each point by eye to its maximum potential and visual effect. This is where I say I mix the scientific side with the artistic side, and also why I say to only use my settings as the baseline for your setup and then personally touch it up by a few clicks up or down in the gamma and elsewhere. Unfortunately too though, the Epson only has a 9 point gamma and we are using SDR mode which starts out in the 2.2 gamma range or so and as was the case with the LS10000, I seemed to bottom out in the very beginning of the curve. It seems to be ok though because image wise that's right where it seems to need to be!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clarify, this projector does not use wobulation like some DLPs. It uses eShift which is a separate piece of optical glass that electronically angles itself between frames to shift the image up and to the right by half pixel to give you a perceived higher and closer to 4K resolution. It uses human's persistence of vision to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do NOT use electronic keystone adjustments!!! It will destroy your native resolution capabilities and make your picture look like crap! This isn't a boardroom meeting or classroom we're installing here.


Dumb question but what do you mean by "Do NOT use electronic keystone adjustments"? So don't actually use the Keystone adjustments at all? 
Right now mine is off just a little and now thinking I need to level either my screen or one leg of the projector.
Thanks.


----------



## robc1976

rustolemite said:


> Dumb question but what do you mean by "Do NOT use electronic keystone adjustments"? So don't actually use the Keystone adjustments at all?
> Right now mine is off just a little and now thinking I need to level either my screen or one leg of the projector.
> Thanks.


 mine is only off on one side, getting a swivel pole. I have read keystone lowers resolution


----------



## dholmes54

I finally got my eyes fixed, can I use harpervision with my Phillips 7501 uhd player?


----------



## robc1976

dholmes54 said:


> I finally got my eyes fixed, can I use harpervision with my Phillips 7501 uhd player?


 100% yes


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs where do I begin,the procedure is a little confusing, do you start with HDR and switch to SDR?


----------



## evergreek

Hello All,

I received a brand "new" 5040ub projector that I bought from Amazon.. I have a question in regards to the back cover - does this model bring a back cover? or only the wireless version? The quick start guide pointed to it having one, but mines dint bring one. Also -- the front lens cover was "half" opened -- is it not suppose to have brought a protector from the factory? or could it have opened during shipping?

I'm concerned that this item was returned and sold to me as new.. any ideas?


----------



## spnav1

Hello-

How is the 5040 with cable tv sources? I know these are typically compressed signals but I have an Epson 3100 and the text on the bottom screen tickers for ESPN and news networks are not very sharp. Overall images with cable tv are also not sharp. I'm projecting on a Silver Ticket acoustically transparent screen so Im not sure if the blurry image is due to the cable tv source (Tivo mini running Comcast), the AT screen, or the projector. For reference I sit 12' away from a 120" screen. Will the 5040 produce sharper images with cable tv sources with the 4k pixel shift?

Thanks!


----------



## rustolemite

robc1976 said:


> mine is only off on one side, getting a swivel pole. I have read keystone lowers resolution


I can get mine even on the right and left and the top but its either the bottom left or right that are off, actually the only time you really notice it is when I am on PC but of course knowing it's there is driving me crazy.


----------



## robc1976

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs where do I begin,the procedure is a little confusing, do you start with HDR and switch to SDR?


Input Dave's setting, put UHD or hdr movie on, go to signal menu and set it to sdr


----------



## panman40

evergreek said:


> Hello All,
> 
> I received a brand "new" 5040ub projector that I bought from Amazon.. I have a question in regards to the back cover - does this model bring a back cover? or only the wireless version? The quick start guide pointed to it having one, but mines dint bring one. Also -- the front lens cover was "half" opened -- is it not suppose to have brought a protector from the factory? or could it have opened during shipping?
> 
> I'm concerned that this item was returned and sold to me as new.. any ideas?


Only the white wireless version comes with a flap cover, also my lens cover was half open when I unpacked it. A few others I know had the half open lens cover to from various dealers in the UK.

I wouldn't worry. 

Ps, I've ordered a spare flap for mine, maybe you could do the same if you want one and spray it to match the black.


----------



## evergreek

panman40 said:


> Only the white wireless version comes with a flap cover, also my lens cover was half open when I unpacked it. A few others I know had the half open lens cover to from various dealers in the UK.
> 
> I wouldn't worry.
> 
> Ps, I've ordered a spare flap for mine, maybe you could do the same if you want one and spray it to match the black.


Thank you for the quick response! I was starting to freak out! lol..


----------



## sddp

k3nnis said:


> Hi all, are the elite screens better of the budget brands compared to say silver ticket? Or Grandview.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I went with a 150" Elite Edge free 3D and LOVE IT!
Silver ticket and others would be about 4-5 times as much. And personally the difference is not like going from a DVD to a 4K disc.


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> I start out with calibrated settings using mostly R. Masciola's patterns. Then since the Epsons, as you state, don't have the same custom gamma SW like the JVCs do, I go in the Epson's 9 point custom gamma and essentially replicate the "S" curve/EOTF of BT2084. Since each disc, projector, player, etc. acts a bit differently or is mastered differently then I go in with known great sources like The Revenant and tweak each point by eye to its maximum potential and visual effect. This is where I say I mix the scientific side with the artistic side, and also why I say to only use my settings as the baseline for your setup and then personally touch it up by a few clicks up or down in the gamma and elsewhere. Unfortunately too though, the Epson only has a 9 point gamma and we are using SDR mode which starts out in the 2.2 gamma range or so and as was the case with the LS10000, I seemed to bottom out in the very beginning of the curve. It seems to be ok though because image wise that's right where it seems to need to be!


Thanks, again, Dave. Very helpful as always. And sorry to keep bugging you about this - I've been calibrating the 5040 myself with pretty good results. I just want to make sure I understand how to approach the custom gamma settings as this is the only part of the calibration process that is unclear to me. The art + science approach makes perfect sense and the art part of the equation is clear. But can you expand on the part where you say that you "use the 9 point custom gamma to replicate the "S" curve..". How do you approach that? Do you do a 10/11 point greyscale measurement and try to hit certain targets for your starting point?


----------



## roland6465

spnav1 said:


> Hello-
> 
> How is the 5040 with cable tv sources? I know these are typically compressed signals but I have an Epson 3100 and the text on the bottom screen tickers for ESPN and news networks are not very sharp. Overall images with cable tv are also not sharp. I'm projecting on a Silver Ticket acoustically transparent screen so Im not sure if the blurry image is due to the cable tv source (Tivo mini running Comcast), the AT screen, or the projector. For reference I sit 12' away from a 120" screen. Will the 5040 produce sharper images with cable tv sources with the 4k pixel shift?
> 
> Thanks!


I have a 6040 and DirecTV Mini-Genie, and to me, the pixel shift adds more "smoothing" than "sharpening", but it definitely improves the picture. I'm about 9'-10' from an 88" Carada 1.0 gain white screen. 

DirecTV probably has a lower bandwidth signal than Comcast, so you may see even more improvement. I haven't had any problems reading the ESPN ticker, though I usually zoom & crop it out during live sports events. Have a lens memory just for it, yet another advantage of the 5040/6040!

To my eyes, the PQ goes, from best to worst: UHDBRD > BRD > Roku/AppleTV streaming > DirecTV > DVD, though with my Oppo 203, even DVDs are totally watchable.


----------



## seplant

anwar79 said:


> Need some help with some projector settings.
> 
> 1) Firmware is 1.08. I see that there is an updated firmware 1.09 on epson site. Is there any reason I need to update the firmware?
> 2) From reading all the posts, it seems that Roku ultra (amazon and Netflix) is not capable of displaying 4K HDR? I have tried changing all the settings, but in projection info location it always show SDR.


1) Firmware 1.09 adds the Auto (Bright) mode which will default to a brighter HDR image.
2) I have a Roku Premiere + (which should provide the same output as the Ultra), and I am not able to get Netflix in HDR. My 6040 does show 4K resolution and BT.2020 color, however. I think it doesn't receive HDR because the chipset in the 5040/6040 has limited bandwidth. If the Roku could force 24Hz (like the Nvidia Shield can), I think the HDR would work, but as it is, the Roku puts out 60Hz only.


----------



## ndabunka

sahil0909 said:


> Anyone with a used older epson model, 1080p or even 720p one, i know it's probably not possible but looking for one at around 100$ if possible


I have an older NEC 1080p LT75z DLP that works "sometimes" and then doesn't at other times. I bought it new many years back for $2,100. I think it's due to lack of use as it was essentially stored in an inside closet for about 4 years. I was thinking about selling it on eBay by listing it as "parts only". I even have a super nice Aero ceiling mount that originally sold for around $200. You can have it all to play with for $100 + actual shipping costs if you want to give it a go...


----------



## dholmes54

robc1976 said:


> Input Dave's setting, put UHD or hdr movie on, go to signal menu and set it to sdr


Thxs I got lost in all the pages in this thread


----------



## limulus

*I'm apparently waaay behind on my technology*

I currently have a Pioneer ELITE Pro FPJ1 (same as JVC DLA-RS2). It is 9-10 yrs old. Mine either needs a new lamp or suddenly has other issues. Picture quality suddenly went south. I started thinking about buying a new lamp but then realized this pj is 9yrs old and I'm certain, it is obsolete in tech and picture quality. I don't come on AVS much these days and I already see I'm way out of touch. All the talk is about 4k/UHD, HDR. I'm also reading about pixel shifting and other terms I don't know.

I recently replaced my Pioneer BD player that I loved with a new Oppo UDP 203. So at least I was smart enough to do that. I still don't have a "modern" processor or AVR. Mine is an HK AVR 7200 from 2002 which in the day cost $2k. I have an Emo XPA-3 amp for the front three channels and I use the 7200 for the 4 surrounds. I currently just run the cable from the Oppo through the ceiling since the 7200 does not have HDMI (yeah, I know). I don't really care about 3D but I do care about contrast and black levels. The FPJ1 had awesome black levels but was not bright at all (600 lumens and 30,000:1 CR). It appears that most new projectors beat that for a LOT less money. Also, I do stream some through my Oppo 203 using a Roku stick but I don't think I care about 4k.

I'll probably do some reading and try to figure out what all the new stuff is. I never really liked DLP projectors but that was 10yrs ago. I think the new DLPs have to be better than 10yrs ago. Can I "assume" I'll like something like the 5040ub and get much better picture quality than I did with my FPJ1 which was D-ILA? Yeah, I just want to do a "little" research and pull the trigger on something. The FPJ1 was originally $9k and I know I can get better quality for much less and that is why I'm now looking in the


----------



## @TJ

Hope someone can help me with this - probably posted but cannot find any information.

I tried the 2D-> 3D but 3D setup is greyed out unless I have a 3D disk playing, and even with that the 2D -> 3D is greyed out - I found in an older thread you need to disable 4K enhancement, but even that is greyed out. Any ideas?
thanks!


----------



## anwar79

I've been reading through most of this forum for the last few weeks trying to find if there are calibration settings for:

Standard TV - what settings is best (dynamic, natural, etc). 
Standard 1080p bluray setting(non 4k)- Harper vision settings? Or is Harper vision dialed in for 4k only.
Roku streaming 4k streaming (no hdr) for Netflix and Amazon .

Thanks


----------



## carp

spirithockey79 said:


> For any Oppo 203 owners, have you tried using the strip HDR feature (to keep bt2020) and combine bright cinema with it? I’ve been messing around with HarperVision settings with Dig Cin and Oledurt’s HDR settings with Bright Cinema, but then tried stripping HDR and used Bright Cinema and was blown away. I think I used a target luminance on the Oppo of 150 or 100. Just curious on feedback from others that have tried this. This may be my default HDR setup from now on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




I am a fan of Dave Harper's settings and like Oledurt's even better. If what you are doing is another step up, I'm all in. So let me make sure I understand. YOu have the Oppo 203 and set it to strip metadata, and set the nits to 150 ish. On the 5040 side all the settings are the same as Oledurt's? Is this right? thanks!

@spirithockey79


----------



## robc1976

carp said:


> I am a fan of Dave Harper's settings and like Oledurt's even better. If what you are doing is another step up, I'm all in. So let me make sure I understand. YOu have the Oppo 203 and set it to strip metadata, and set the nits to 150 ish. On the 5040 side all the settings are the same as Oledurt's? Is this right? thanks!
> 
> 
> @spirithockey79


 If oledurts where brighter I would use use, to dark for me unfournately


----------



## carp

robc1976 said:


> If oledurts where brighter I would use use, to dark for me unfournately


Hmm... makes me think I'm not doing his settings right because it's plenty bright on a pretty large screen. His settings look just as bright to me as Dave Harper's but with better blacks and more contrast.


----------



## panman40

Has anyone had thier On/Off contrast ratio measured ?. 

I have the UK TW9300W, 106" diag White 1.1 gain screen. I don't use the auto Iris due to it being audible.

When I had my Sony hw65 I was getting a CR of 6000:1 with black measuring 0.003ftl. When I first got the Epson I was pretty underwhelmed with its native black level in the same room/setup when watching darker movies.

When I first measured the Epson with the same calibration gear I always use black level was reading 0.006ftl and giving a CR of just 3000:1. 

Last night I remeasured it again 400 odd lamp hrs later as I wanted to setup 2 natural memories with slightly different settings but both giving a light output of 14ftl.

Black level has improved very slightly and if I set brightness to 1 click below reference 16 black it's now measuring 0.004ftl but still with a contrast ratio of 3000:1 which is a bit dissapointing.

So just wondering if anyone has had CR measured on theirs ?.


----------



## mcallister

Anyone have the post # handy for oledurts settings?


----------



## aaranddeeman

panman40 said:


> Has anyone had thier On/Off contrast ratio measured ?.
> 
> I have the UK TW9300W, 106" diag White 1.1 gain screen. I don't use the auto Iris due to it being audible.
> 
> When I had my Sony hw65 I was getting a CR of 6000:1 with black measuring 0.003ftl. When I first got the Epson I was pretty underwhelmed with its native black level in the same room/setup when watching darker movies.
> 
> When I first measured the Epson with the same calibration gear I always use black level was reading 0.006ftl and giving a CR of just 3000:1.
> 
> Last night I remeasured it again 400 odd lamp hrs later as I wanted to setup 2 natural memories with slightly different settings but both giving a light output of 14ftl.
> 
> Black level has improved very slightly and if I set brightness to 1 click below reference 16 black it's now measuring 0.004ftl but still with a contrast ratio of 3000:1 which is a bit dissapointing.
> 
> So just wondering if anyone has had CR measured on theirs ?.


Yes. I remember it was in the ballpark of 6500:1 in Cinema mode. An this was post calibration.


----------



## panman40

aaranddeeman said:


> panman40 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had thier On/Off contrast ratio measured ?.
> 
> I have the UK TW9300W, 106" diag White 1.1 gain screen. I don't use the auto Iris due to it being audible.
> 
> When I had my Sony hw65 I was getting a CR of 6000:1 with black measuring 0.003ftl. When I first got the Epson I was pretty underwhelmed with its native black level in the same room/setup when watching darker movies.
> 
> When I first measured the Epson with the same calibration gear I always use black level was reading 0.006ftl and giving a CR of just 3000:1.
> 
> Last night I remeasured it again 400 odd lamp hrs later as I wanted to setup 2 natural memories with slightly different settings but both giving a light output of 14ftl.
> 
> Black level has improved very slightly and if I set brightness to 1 click below reference 16 black it's now measuring 0.004ftl but still with a contrast ratio of 3000:1 which is a bit dissapointing.
> 
> So just wondering if anyone has had CR measured on theirs ?.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. I remember it was in the ballpark of 6500:1 in Cinema mode. An this was post calibration.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Cinema has the P3 filter helping black level, did you measure natural mode and was that off the screen or from the lens ?.


----------



## spirithockey79

carp said:


> I am a fan of Dave Harper's settings and like Oledurt's even better. If what you are doing is another step up, I'm all in. So let me make sure I understand. YOu have the Oppo 203 and set it to strip metadata, and set the nits to 150 ish. On the 5040 side all the settings are the same as Oledurt's? Is this right? thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @spirithockey79




Partially correct. I haven’t quite settled on my preferred 5040 setting. I actually had a calibrator set up a “strip HDR” setting for me, but I’m not an expert so wasn’t sure how he was doing it. Anyway it looked fine but I was just experimenting and chose a bright cinema preset and thought it was awesome. I think my bright cinema setting was calibrated for HDR, so I’ve been comparing that to the default settings. Not sure which I like better. I’ve tried Oledurt’s bright cinema settings as well but believe his was for HDR also. I can’t tell too much of a difference between mine & his though. Since mine was calibrated for my room I’m leaning towards that one even though I don’t have a custom gamma curve. Just not sure I need one when not using HDR. 



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Thank you for the kind words, Ryan!  This is why I do this, because it's so much fun playing around with this stuff, like a mad scientist, to see what I can come up with. It fails more times than not, but when it hits, it's usually *BIG*!!! I did a similar thing with my Sony 675ES that I called "The HarperVision Experience", but maybe I will make that more a process and apply it to all models I am able to do something similar to, and then market that as a _thing_ if anyone wants me to do it for them on their gear?
> 
> I will have 2 of these 3 projectors (JVC RS600, Epson 5040UB, Epson LS10000) for sale soon, once I decide which one to keep myself in the demo room. I will leave and tweak my "HarperVision Experience" settings on the ones I sell for the next owner to enjoy (hopefully!).
> 
> One thing to know, an ISF calibration isn't really things like these settings. It is getting a good reference greyscale, color gamut, gamma, etc. as a baseline before most of these _enhancements_ are applied. So it would behoove you to maybe find someone awesome like Chad B., Ken Whitcomb, UMR, Gregg Loewen, Michael Chen, Kevin Miller, etc. (I am sure I am leaving a ton of folks out, sorry!) to stop by and do some of their ISF/THX magic on it before these settings are applied.
> 
> The only change I can think I made so far is backing down color saturation to between 70-75 and on the custom gamma's second to the last point, changing it from 16 to 15 as I noticed a little "haze" in that gamma zone in the scene where Dan Aykroyd drives up in the cab and Kristen Wigg leans in talking to him. The haze was seen around his jacket area below his chin and it made it an easy adjustment since each zone point you select in custom gamma makes if flash on and off so you see exactly what area needs adjusting and that you are adjusting. It would be good for everyone trying this to try a few different scenes, both very dark and very light, and then go through my custom gamma on your setup and do the same tweaks to get each point practically perfect, as I did when I was experimenting with all this. A great scene to almost do it all in one scene is the one from The Revenant towards the end of the first fight with the indians as the older man walks up with the pistol and shoots the horse, then turns and walks through the barn with the guy holding the injured man's head. There's a lof of low level shadow details along with those sparkly highs from the sun and the lens flares. Once I got the gamma really good, I could see it immediately in that scene alone and was like  !


 you still use these tweaks to Harper vision? 

1. Color saturation 70-75 instead of 80
2. 2nd to last gamna point 15 instead of 16


----------



## rustolemite

Okay can't figure this out I can get the picture 100% square. the feet on the projector are the same height the screen frame is hung square, but its still off on opposite sides. 
Here's 2 pics and didn't realize they were not 100% straight but you can see the white lines on the test pattern are off and I am not sure what to do, looks like the keystone 
just rotates the picture forward and backward which doesn't help.

Any ideas and I will take a better picture this weekend.


----------



## reechings

Still worth getting this projector now or do we think prices are going to come down in the fall?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## GregCh

rustolemite said:


> Okay can't figure this out I can get the picture 100% square. the feet on the projector are the same height the screen frame is hung square, but its still off on opposite sides.
> Here's 2 pics and didn't realize they were not 100% straight but you can see the white lines on the test pattern are off and I am not sure what to do, looks like the keystone
> just rotates the picture forward and backward which doesn't help.
> 
> Any ideas and I will take a better picture this weekend.


To me it looks like the bottom right hand of image is closer than the lower left. You also might be ever so slightly high on the left side. 

You wall or screen might not be perfectly flat or your projector might need a hair of rotation so that it is square to the wall. 

I would not use any keystone correction as it messes with sharpness and overall image quality. 

Just keep playing with it until you get it the best you can. I don't think it is terribly bad right now but it could probably be tweaked a little.


----------



## rustolemite

GregCh said:


> To me it looks like the bottom right hand of image is closer than the lower left. You also might be ever so slightly high on the left side.
> 
> You wall or screen might not be perfectly flat or your projector might need a hair of rotation so that it is square to the wall.
> 
> I would not use any keystone correction as it messes with sharpness and overall image quality.
> 
> Just keep playing with it until you get it the best you can. I don't think it is terribly bad right now but it could probably be tweaked a little.


Right now the keystone is set at 0 we have tried leveling 1 foot then the other it just seems like its in the projector where its off balance. You notice it the most when on the PC, I can't believe we can't get it 100% square.

Thanks


----------



## rustolemite

Has anybody been able to use any type or Universal Remote on the 5040? I have a URC-MX990 and all I can get it to do is turn it on and off.

Thanks


----------



## roland6465

rustolemite said:


> Has anybody been able to use any type or Universal Remote on the 5040? I have a URC-MX990 and all I can get it to do is turn it on and off.
> 
> Thanks


My Harmony One picked up the codes just fine.


----------



## robc1976

Any calibrator know if boosting color saturation will effect CMS or greyscale?


----------



## rustolemite

roland6465 said:


> My Harmony One picked up the codes just fine.


Hey thanks.


----------



## robc1976

rustolemite said:


> Right now the keystone is set at 0 we have tried leveling 1 foot then the other it just seems like its in the projector where its off balance. You notice it the most when on the PC, I can't believe we can't get it 100% square.
> 
> Thanks


 projector is not plum with screen, one side needs to be brought out ever so slightly.


----------



## robc1976

carp said:


> Hmm... makes me think I'm not doing his settings right because it's plenty bright on a pretty large screen. His settings look just as bright to me as Dave Harper's but with better blacks and more contrast.


 makes me wonder if I am?. Can you post the settings.... Hate to ask but every menu if possible to be sure all is correct.

Maybe I have a setting in my BD wrong?. Oldurts where a lot darker than Dave's. I would love more contrast ECT.

Many thanks


----------



## robc1976

anwar79 said:


> I've been reading through most of this forum for the last few weeks trying to find if there are calibration settings for:
> 
> Standard TV - what settings is best (dynamic, natural, etc).
> Standard 1080p bluray setting(non 4k)- Harper vision settings? Or is Harper vision dialed in for 4k only.
> Roku streaming 4k streaming (no hdr) for Netflix and Amazon .
> 
> Thanks


 709 sdr use natural, uhd 4K use oledurts bright cinnema or Dave Harper's settings.


----------



## panman40

rustolemite said:


> Okay can't figure this out I can get the picture 100% square. the feet on the projector are the same height the screen frame is hung square, but its still off on opposite sides.
> Here's 2 pics and didn't realize they were not 100% straight but you can see the white lines on the test pattern are off and I am not sure what to do, looks like the keystone
> just rotates the picture forward and backward which doesn't help.
> 
> Any ideas and I will take a better picture this weekend.


Just try and first turn the PJ to the left slightly then use some right lens shift, if worse turn the PJ to the right and use left lens shift.

You should see an improvement one way or the other, you may also need to tilt the PJ up or down slightly then use the vertical shift, 

However if your screen is slightly twisted in any way you will have difficulties.


----------



## carp

robc1976 said:


> makes me wonder if I am?. Can you post the settings.... Hate to ask but every menu if possible to be sure all is correct.
> 
> Maybe I have a setting in my BD wrong?. Oldurts where a lot darker than Dave's. I would love more contrast ECT.
> 
> Many thanks



Ha, I would but I need to figure out how to post pictures without using photobucket. Not only can I not use them going forward, but all pictures I've ever posted are gone. I knew it could happen someday so I'm not nearly as mad as a lot of people are but it does suck. 

http://www.nbcnews.com/tech/interne...ing-your-amazon-ebay-listings-pricier-n779781

Try Oledurt's settings again and make sure you change the HDR setting to HDR 1. If you haven't done the firmware update on the 5040, then using the "auto" setting will default to a darker HDR setting so you have to switch it to HDR 1. I bet that's the issue?


----------



## robc1976

carp said:


> Ha, I would but I need to figure out how to post pictures without using photobucket. Not only can I not use them going forward, but all pictures I've ever posted are gone. I knew it could happen someday so I'm not nearly as mad as a lot of people are but it does suck.
> 
> http://www.nbcnews.com/tech/interne...ing-your-amazon-ebay-listings-pricier-n779781
> 
> Try Oledurt's settings again and make sure you change the HDR setting to HDR 1. If you haven't done the firmware update on the 5040, then using the "auto" setting will default to a darker HDR setting so you have to switch it to HDR 1. I bet that's the issue?


 tried all that, no go. I did just improve harper vision, I had HV on a slot that just had grey scale calibrated. I just realized I also have a full 4K digital cinema 2020 with cms and greyscale calibration and put harper vision settings in that file and WOW!


----------



## carp

robc1976 said:


> tried all that, no go. I did just improve harper vision, I had HV on a slot that just had grey scale calibrated. I just realized I also have a full 4K digital cinema 2020 with cms and greyscale calibration and put harper vision settings in that file and WOW!


Haha, now you have me thinking I have something wrong with my harper vision settings.  Not that they don't look really good, but Oledurt's give me more contrast/better blacks.


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> tried all that, no go. I did just improve harper vision, I had HV on a slot that just had grey scale calibrated. I just realized I also have a full 4K digital cinema 2020 with cms and greyscale calibration and put harper vision settings in that file and WOW!


You must be all out of memories by now lol


----------



## panman40

carp said:


> Haha, now you have me thinking I have something wrong with my harper vision settings.  Not that they don't look really good, but Oledurt's give me more contrast/better blacks.


To be honest the only way you can have better or worse blacks is if your brightness setting is incorrect in one or the other mom pry settings or you have an incorrect HDMI video level.

Ideally when using others settings it's a good idea to have the nesaccary black clipping pattern to set brightness correctly.

A good way to compare would be to pause a scene where it's very near complete dark then toggle between them.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> You must be all out of memories by now lol


 roflmao!. I still have yours in there!


----------



## robc1976

carp said:


> Haha, now you have me thinking I have something wrong with my harper vision settings.  Not that they don't look really good, but Oledurt's give me more contrast/better blacks.


 Ha! Ha! Grey scale and CMS made huge difference. Is your room dark and light controlled?


----------



## carp

panman40 said:


> To be honest the only way you can have better or worse blacks is if your brightness setting is incorrect in one or the other mom pry settings or you have an incorrect HDMI video level.
> 
> Ideally when using others settings it's a good idea to have the nesaccary black clipping pattern to set brightness correctly.
> 
> A good way to compare would be to pause a scene where it's very near complete dark then toggle between them.


What should the HDMI video level be set at?


----------



## panman40

carp said:


> What should the HDMI video level be set at?


Mostly Auto or Normal, after a member noticed some anomalous with colour clipping patterns on the spears & Munsil disc I have been trying another set of settings for SDR in Natural mode using Expanded with reduced brightness and superwhite Off, I set both with my meter to give 14ftl light output, they look similar by eye but calibrating using expanded HDMI level passes all the colour clipping tests.
No verdict as yet on which I prefer though.


----------



## SALadder22FF

With the Xbox One X toting it's 4k hdr upgrades to gaming and it being a powerhouse of consoles, does anyone know looking at its specs if it will eliminate the problem the Xbox One S had with hdr streaming and the 5040ub and that my original Xbox had switching to 4k directv?


----------



## ayrton

spirithockey79 said:


> For any Oppo 203 owners, have you tried using the strip HDR feature (to keep bt2020) and combine bright cinema with it? I’ve been messing around with HarperVision settings with Dig Cin and Oledurt’s HDR settings with Bright Cinema, but then tried stripping HDR and used Bright Cinema and was blown away. I think I used a target luminance on the Oppo of 150 or 100. Just curious on feedback from others that have tried this. This may be my default HDR setup from now on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Did you keep Oledurt's HDR settings for Bright Cinema??


----------



## evergreek

How do you guys reset the lens position to the "home" position?? I tried to reset it in the menu but it does not work -- it stays at the lens shift position i had before.. I want to relocate the projector and want to know how far off center Im.. any ideas? Thanks!


----------



## Oledurt

This post will draw some heat so here goes...

I spent around 5 hours with my Calibrator yesterday. We worked on Digital Cinema, and I had him test Dave's Harpervision settings. I watched him go through his routine. He uses very expensive equipment over 20k.

First off, we did achieve a full calibration in digital cinema mode clipping the whites at 1000 nits. In the range the projector can do the gamma tracked the EOTF perfectly. Blacks are as good as they can get on the Epson. He also re did the CMS a different way and made the colors even more accurate. The HDR picture is stunning.

First we attempted to not use the brightness or contrast settings and just use the gamma to get the projector to extend to 1000 nits on R Masciola's test pattern. We had to push the gamma to its max but we did achieve it. Problem is the gamma was pushed too much and it distorted the fleshtones. There is not enough range in the gamma to do this.

So we had to back the gamma curve off a bit and use the brightness and contrast settings. With this we were able to get a perfect image clipping the peak whites at 1000 nits. The picture looked amazing.

Now on to Dave Harpers settings *flame suit on*. I want to say up front if you like these settings use them it is your projector your room, and I know that Dave really wants to help the community, and I respect that.

That being said when we tested them it did not test well. The EOTF was way too bright, but you may be able to adjust gamma to get that in line. The colors on the other hand were a mess. They were way off. You cannot correct the SDR color mapping. So you may be able to create a grayscale using gamma correction but your colors will be way off, and you cannot correct that.

I only want to share what I learned. It is your projector use it how you wish, and I hope you enjoy it. I know I love this projector. By the way the gamma curve I am using is the one I have already shared here. My CMS settings won't work for you but if you can get them calibrated with test equipment I highly recommend it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Boggle

came across something a bit odd today and thought I would mention it here. I have an 5040ub and a denon s910w receiver hooked up to an HTPC. When I set the epson to 4096X2160, it breaks atmos bitstreaming and disables a bunch of the audio format options. Everything seems fine if set to 3840X2160. just thought I would mention if anyone else has setup problems.


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> This post will draw some heat so here goes...
> 
> I spent around 5 hours with my Calibrator yesterday. We worked on Digital Cinema, and I had him test Dave's Harpervision settings. I watched him go through his routine. He uses very expensive equipment over 20k.
> 
> First off, we did achieve a full calibration in digital cinema mode clipping the whites at 1000 nits. In the range the projector can do the gamma tracked the EOTF perfectly. Blacks are as good as they can get on the Epson. He also re did the CMS a different way and made the colors even more accurate. The HDR picture is stunning.
> 
> First we attempted to not use the brightness or contrast settings and just use the gamma to get the projector to extend to 1000 nits on R Masciola's test pattern. We had to push the gamma to its max but we did achieve it. Problem is the gamma was pushed too much and it distorted the fleshtones. There is not enough range in the gamma to do this.
> 
> So we had to back the gamma curve off a bit and use the brightness and contrast settings. With this we were able to get a perfect image clipping the peak whites at 1000 nits. The picture looked amazing.
> 
> Now on to Dave Harpers settings *flame suit on*. I want to say up front if you like these settings use them it is your projector your room, and I know that Dave really wants to help the community, and I respect that.
> 
> That being said when we tested them it did not test well. The EOTF was way too bright, but you may be able to adjust gamma to get that in line. The colors on the other hand were a mess. They were way off. You cannot correct the SDR color mapping. So you may be able to create a grayscale using gamma correction but your colors will be way off, and you cannot correct that.
> 
> I only want to share what I learned. It is your projector use it how you wish, and I hope you enjoy it. I know I love this projector. By the way the gamma curve I am using is the one I have already shared here. My CMS settings won't work for you but if you can get them calibrated with test equipment I highly recommend it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Very interesting. Thanks for posting. This is one of the reasons I bought a meter to try and improve the settings for my set up. 

One question - when you say the gamma tracked the EOTF perfectly, what were you targeting, st 2084?


----------



## Oledurt

jwhn said:


> Very interesting. Thanks for posting. This is one of the reasons I bought a meter to try and improve the settings for my set up.
> 
> 
> 
> One question - when you say the gamma tracked the EOTF perfectly, what were you targeting, st 2084?




I cannot say for sure how his software was setup, but I watched him do the tests, and by the time he dialed in the gamma curve it tracked his eotf curve perfectly within the range the projector could do.

I would have to ask what it was targeting. I applaud your efforts with the meter. I can say that if you desire a good picture you have to calibrate this projector with test equipment. If you don't have it or don't have the skill you should hire someone. 

This projector really does not do HDR well without calibration. Especially a custom gamma curve. Since Epson does not provide one nor offer any advice you have to figure it out yourself. JVC does a much better job of telling folks how to setup their projectors for HDR.

I wish Epson would do the same for their buyers.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> I cannot say for sure how his software was setup, but I watched him do the tests, and by the time he dialed in the gamma curve it tracked his eotf curve perfectly within the range the projector could do.
> 
> I would have to ask what it was targeting. I applaud your efforts with the meter. I can say that if you desire a good picture you have to calibrate this projector with test equipment. If you don't have it or don't have the skill you should hire someone.
> 
> This projector really does not do HDR well without calibration. Especially a custom gamma curve. Since Epson does not provide one nor offer any advice you have to figure it out yourself. JVC does a much better job of telling folks how to setup their projectors for HDR.
> 
> I wish Epson would do the same for their buyers.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Okay, thanks. If you are able to ask what gamma curve he was targeting at some point, I'd appreciate it. And totally agree about the necessity to use test equipment. I've been amazed at how different the calibrated settings are across devices (Nvidia, FireTV, Blu Ray player etc.) even for non-HDR.


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> This post will draw some heat so here goes...
> 
> I spent around 5 hours with my Calibrator yesterday. We worked on Digital Cinema, and I had him test Dave's Harpervision settings. I watched him go through his routine. He uses very expensive equipment over 20k.
> 
> First off, we did achieve a full calibration in digital cinema mode clipping the whites at 1000 nits. In the range the projector can do the gamma tracked the EOTF perfectly. Blacks are as good as they can get on the Epson. He also re did the CMS a different way and made the colors even more accurate. The HDR picture is stunning.
> 
> First we attempted to not use the brightness or contrast settings and just use the gamma to get the projector to extend to 1000 nits on R Masciola's test pattern. We had to push the gamma to its max but we did achieve it. Problem is the gamma was pushed too much and it distorted the fleshtones. There is not enough range in the gamma to do this.
> 
> So we had to back the gamma curve off a bit and use the brightness and contrast settings. With this we were able to get a perfect image clipping the peak whites at 1000 nits. The picture looked amazing.
> 
> Now on to Dave Harpers settings *flame suit on*. I want to say up front if you like these settings use them it is your projector your room, and I know that Dave really wants to help the community, and I respect that.
> 
> That being said when we tested them it did not test well. The EOTF was way too bright, but you may be able to adjust gamma to get that in line. The colors on the other hand were a mess. They were way off. You cannot correct the SDR color mapping. So you may be able to create a grayscale using gamma correction but your colors will be way off, and you cannot correct that.
> 
> I only want to share what I learned. It is your projector use it how you wish, and I hope you enjoy it. I know I love this projector. By the way the gamma curve I am using is the one I have already shared here. My CMS settings won't work for you but if you can get them calibrated with test equipment I highly recommend it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Nice work, your calibrator sounds like he knows what he is doing.

So if you now have a linker in the chain your gamma and settings won't be of any use for a setup without the linker ?.

Any chance you could just re post your Gamma settings please and are you using medium or Eco lamp ?.

Agreed this projector can throw some amazing images, I rewatch end Disneys Cars 2 3D yesterday and was extremely impressed with the image.

Thanks.


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> This post will draw some heat so here goes...
> 
> I spent around 5 hours with my Calibrator yesterday. We worked on Digital Cinema, and I had him test Dave's Harpervision settings. I watched him go through his routine. He uses very expensive equipment over 20k.
> 
> First off, we did achieve a full calibration in digital cinema mode clipping the whites at 1000 nits. In the range the projector can do the gamma tracked the EOTF perfectly. Blacks are as good as they can get on the Epson. He also re did the CMS a different way and made the colors even more accurate. The HDR picture is stunning.
> 
> First we attempted to not use the brightness or contrast settings and just use the gamma to get the projector to extend to 1000 nits on R Masciola's test pattern. We had to push the gamma to its max but we did achieve it. Problem is the gamma was pushed too much and it distorted the fleshtones. There is not enough range in the gamma to do this.
> 
> So we had to back the gamma curve off a bit and use the brightness and contrast settings. With this we were able to get a perfect image clipping the peak whites at 1000 nits. The picture looked amazing.
> 
> Now on to Dave Harpers settings *flame suit on*. I want to say up front if you like these settings use them it is your projector your room, and I know that Dave really wants to help the community, and I respect that.
> 
> That being said when we tested them it did not test well. The EOTF was way too bright, but you may be able to adjust gamma to get that in line. The colors on the other hand were a mess. They were way off. You cannot correct the SDR color mapping. So you may be able to create a grayscale using gamma correction but your colors will be way off, and you cannot correct that.
> 
> I only want to share what I learned. It is your projector use it how you wish, and I hope you enjoy it. I know I love this projector. By the way the gamma curve I am using is the one I have already shared here. My CMS settings won't work for you but if you can get them calibrated with test equipment I highly recommend it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 that would be why my calibrator could not adjust the color in the CMS do did as you said abs adjusted the greyscale. I then used a 4K HDR digital cinema file that had cms, greyscale then inputted Dave's settings and it looked the best.

I want to use your settings but its way to dark but its crisper. Aby ideas?. I have the 1.09 update and use HDR 1.


----------



## Lesmor

@Oledurt
Thanks for sharing
If 20k of calibration gear doesn't get you there I don't think anything else will
Of course it comes down to the skill and experience of the operator as well

If you do talk to him again would it be possible to get a list of the gear he used?
This might be a good reference to gauge the standard of equipment used by other companies for those who wish to employ their own calibrator

Did he offer any opinion on the Epson projector itself?
Can you remind me which model you have as that will also have a bearing on using any settings you have shared?


----------



## Oledurt

Lesmor said:


> @Oledurt
> 
> Thanks for sharing
> 
> If 20k of calibration gear doesn't get you there I don't think anything else will
> 
> Of course it comes down to the skill and experience of the operator as well
> 
> 
> 
> If you do talk to him again would it be possible to get a list of the gear he used?
> 
> This might be a good reference to gauge the standard of equipment used by other companies for those who wish to employ their own calibrator
> 
> 
> 
> Did he offer any opinion on the Epson projector itself?
> 
> Can you remind me which model you have as that will also have a bearing on using any settings you have shared?




Hey,

I will ask him for you. He is impressed with the Epson, and he is a JVC dealer. He said the JVC has better black levels and gamma for HDR calibration. However, with the auto iris the Epson puts out comparable black levels. 

As far as calibration it is imperative to get a good gamma curve which takes testing, tweaking, testing, tweaking etc...Once you get it you will have an amazing grayscale.

It is extremely important to get your brightness and contrast setting right. You want to clip the whites at 1000 nits. I set the manual iris to -4, and use the auto iris on normal. I run the lamp on high.

I get an amazing picture.

I already posted the custom gamma curve I use but I will do it again. This is to be used in digital cinema mode.

-1,-1,-3,-3,-3,-6,-7,-8,-5

If your brightness is not set correctly it will be too dark. If contrast is not set right your whites will clip too early. I use R. Masciola's test patterns for brightness, and contrast.

You will have to calibrate your own colors.

best of luck.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## teeganquinntate

So is there an easy way to get Harpervision settings into memory where I can just select it "set it and forget it" style, or will I always have to go into signal settings and manually change it to pick up BT709, SDR, etc?


----------



## mikecoscia

Dave Harper said:


> Do NOT use electronic keystone adjustments!!! It will destroy your native resolution capabilities and make your picture look like crap! This isn't a boardroom meeting or classroom we're installing here.


Yeah, I learned that one quickly. I originally tilted the projector down and keystoned the image, but it changed the ratio and the image no longer filled the entire screen. There were actually unlit areas at the top and bottom. Needless to say, I am using lens shift only now...lol. With that being said, I trying rotating the projector a bit and messing with the lens shift. Nothing seemed to change that yellows shadow. So, guess I am stuck with it. Luckily, I don't really notice it unless I am close to the screen. I was just curious if I could fix it and if it would make my image sharper.


----------



## bigabit

teeganquinntate said:


> So is there an easy way to get Harpervision settings into memory where I can just select it "set it and forget it" style, or will I always have to go into signal settings and manually change it to pick up BT709, SDR, etc?


I believe that these settings are specific to each HDMI input. So you could run Harpervision on one input and a different HDR mode on the other. This would require a HDFury Linker to get around the lack of HDCP on the second input.

I have Input 1 set up as Harpervision and the Input 2 set up for SDR. I use different Harmony activities for each disc type, so I just punch HDR or SDR movie and it starts up with no menus or additional prompts.


----------



## ndabunka

*USB Updates ONLY now on the 5040ub?*

I noticed that the most recent version of the firmware is 1.09 and thought I might as well update. Unfortunately the EPSON website does not show a network option so... is the ONLY way to update the 5040ub is via USB only, right?


----------



## panman40

ndabunka said:


> I noticed that the most recent version of the firmware is 1.09 and thought I might as well update. Unfortunately the EPSON website does not show a network option so... is the ONLY way to update the 5040ub is via USB only, right?


Yes USB is the only option but it's not to complicated.


----------



## terminal33

rustolemite said:


> Has anybody been able to use any type or Universal Remote on the 5040? I have a URC-MX990 and all I can get it to do is turn it on and off.
> 
> Thanks


I use the Harmony 700 and it works just fine.


----------



## ndabunka

panman40 said:


> Yes USB is the only option but it's not to complicated.


Thanks. I am a tech pro by trade (can even program in assembler code which nobody does anymore) but had hoped I wouldn't have to fiddle with the dongle


----------



## panman40

ndabunka said:


> panman40 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes USB is the only option but it's not to complicated.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I am a tech pro by trade (can even program in assembler code which nobody does anymore) but had hoped I wouldn't have to fiddle with the dongle
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with a fiddle with your dongle


----------



## Lesmor

Oledurt said:


> Hey,
> 
> I will ask him for you. He is impressed with the Epson, and he is a JVC dealer. He said the JVC has better black levels and gamma for HDR calibration. However, with the auto iris the Epson puts out comparable black levels.
> 
> As far as calibration it is imperative to get a good gamma curve which takes testing, tweaking, testing, tweaking etc...Once you get it you will have an amazing grayscale.
> 
> It is extremely important to get your brightness and contrast setting right. You want to clip the whites at 1000 nits. I set the manual iris to -4, and use the auto iris on normal. I run the lamp on high.
> 
> I get an amazing picture.
> 
> I already posted the custom gamma curve I use but I will do it again. This is to be used in digital cinema mode.
> 
> -1,-1,-3,-3,-3,-6,-7,-8,-5
> 
> If your brightness is not set correctly it will be too dark. If contrast is not set right your whites will clip too early. I use R. Masciola's test patterns for brightness, and contrast.
> 
> You will have to calibrate your own colors.
> 
> best of luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks Oledurt
I have a spreadsheet with all your settings but I don't have one with that Gamma so I must have missed it
Sorry to ask again but what Epson model number do you have?
Also is Superwhite On or Off?

Thanks in advance 
Andy


----------



## n4xxr76

Oledurt said:


> Sorry to crash the party but here are my settings for HDR in their entirety...Enjoy.
> 
> Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
> 
> Brightness = 50
> Contrast = 49
> Color Saturation = 50
> Tint = 50
> Color Temp = 4
> Skin Tone = 4
> Offset R = 50
> Offser G = 50
> Offset B = 51
> Gain R = 50
> Gain G = 50
> Gain B = 43
> 
> Power Consumption = Medium
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 53,50,50
> G 40,94,27
> B 61,49,47
> C 59,46,44
> M 62,50,50
> Y 37,50,48
> 
> Auto Iris = Off
> Epson Super White = Off
> Lens Iris = 0
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0
> 
> 
> Your welcome...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Oledurt,

This is the post with your settings that I've been using. Should I just update my settings with the gamma you just posted or did I miss a separate setting group? Currently when I switch back and forth between yours and HV settings I don't see much difference. I'm hoping updating the gamma would make yours stand out a bit more. I'll give it a shot tonight to see. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

n4xxr76 said:


> Oledurt,
> 
> This is the post with your settings that I've been using. Should I just update my settings with the gamma you just posted or did I miss a separate setting group? Currently when I switch back and forth between yours and HV settings I don't see much difference. I'm hoping updating the gamma would make yours stand out a bit more. I'll give it a shot tonight to see.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Hello,

So let me give you guys some background so you can understand how all this came around.

I purchased the 5040ub, and I wanted to have the best HDR faux k picture I could get. When I first received it like many my complaint was how dark hdr was. Back than the projector defaulted to HDR 2 mode. I scoured the internet looking for settings ultimately I was not happy with how the picture looked. So I hired an ISF Calibrator in my area. He initially came and setup my projector it took him 8 hours. He gave me a calibration for digital cinema mode HDR, Natural mode Blu ray 16:9, natural mode blu ray 2:39.1, and 3d cinema mode blu ray 3d. 

After he left I discovered on his HDR calibration that the whites clipped way too early. I watched Everest and it was a mess. I called him back and he agreed to come back and look at it.

On his second attempt he re calibrated with bright cinema mode (the settings you have above). This was done to extend the peak whites and it did. Problem was that bright cinema mode does not use the cinema filter and you lose the P3 colorspace.

After using that mode for awhile I found I was not happy losing the wider color gamut that is found on 4k discs. I made another appointment with my calibrator .

This occurred last weekend. I asked him to work on digital cinema mode and see if we could get it calibrated. He worked for around 5 hours, and long story short we achieved an amazing calibration in digital cinema mode. We used the same gamma curve that he had put together on the first calibration he did for me. He redid the colors, and made them more accurate. He also redid the brightness and contrast. He set it so the peak whites would clip at 1000 nits, and brightness set so that shadow details are good.

So to sum up. I am now using the settings he did for me Saturday.
ISF Calibrated Digital Cinema Mode. The only tweaks I made was to set lens iris to -4, and turning on auto iris to normal. I did this because it extends the contrast a little, and makes the blacks look very very good...

I almost forgot. Last Saturday I also had him test Harpervision. The results were not good. It is too bright, and does track the EOTF curve at all. The colors do not map correctly for BT2020 either.

One thing I see is people complain that HDR is too dark so they crank up the brightness and gamma. A movie like Suicide Squad has many dark scenes. It is supposed to be dark. HDR setup properly has a ton of shadow detail. Even in dark scenes there are many shades of shadow. It is impressive when done right. SDR tends to be brighter because it has to compensate for the lack of shadow detail compared to HDR so to do that the brightness is increased overall so you can see detail. You are used to seeing movies that way. Your brain tells you brighter is better. However in real life shadows are dark, but your eye is sensitive to contrast and you can make out things even in dark shadows. HDR can show scenes with inky blackness and great shadow detail as well which is much more true to life.

Bottom line, HDR is brighter than SDR, and darker than SDR with many more graduations of contrast in between.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## dlaxman31

great information thanks!


----------



## rustolemite

Oledurt said:


> Hello,
> 
> So let me give you guys some background so you can understand how all this came around.
> 
> I purchased the 5040ub, and I wanted to have the best HDR faux k picture I could get. When I first received it like many my complaint was how dark hdr was. Back than the projector defaulted to HDR 2 mode. I scoured the internet looking for settings ultimately I was not happy with how the picture looked. So I hired an ISF Calibrator in my area. He initially came and setup my projector it took him 8 hours. He gave me a calibration for digital cinema mode HDR, Natural mode Blu ray 16:9, natural mode blu ray 2:39.1, and 3d cinema mode blu ray 3d.
> 
> After he left I discovered on his HDR calibration that the whites clipped way too early. I watched Everest and it was a mess. I called him back and he agreed to come back and look at it.
> 
> On his second attempt he re calibrated with bright cinema mode (the settings you have above). This was done to extend the peak whites and it did. Problem was that bright cinema mode does not use the cinema filter and you lose the P3 colorspace.
> 
> 
> After using that mode for awhile I found I was not happy losing the wider color gamut that is found on 4k discs. I made another appointment with my calibrator .
> 
> This occurred last weekend. I asked him to work on digital cinema mode and see if we could get it calibrated. He worked for around 5 hours, and long story short we achieved an amazing calibration in digital cinema mode. We used the same gamma curve that he had put together on the first calibration he did for me. He redid the colors, and made them more accurate. He also redid the brightness and contrast. He set it so the peak whites would clip at 1000 nits, and brightness set so that shadow details are good.
> 
> So to sum up. I am now using the settings he did for me Saturday.
> ISF Calibrated Digital Cinema Mode. The only tweaks I made was to set lens iris to -4, and turning on auto iris to normal. I did this because it extends the contrast a little, and makes the blacks look very very good...
> 
> I almost forgot. Last Saturday I also had him test Harpervision. The results were not good. It is too bright, and does track the EOTF curve at all. The colors do not map correctly for BT2020 either.
> 
> One thing I see is people complain that HDR is too dark so they crank up the brightness and gamma. A movie like Suicide Squad has many dark scenes. It is supposed to be dark. HDR setup properly has a ton of shadow detail. Even in dark scenes there are many shades of shadow. It is impressive when done right. SDR tends to be brighter because it has to compensate for the lack of shadow detail compared to HDR so to do that the brightness is increased overall so you can see detail. You are used to seeing movies that way. Your brain tells you brighter is better. However in real life shadows are dark, but your eye is sensitive to contrast and you can make out things even in dark shadows. HDR can show scenes with inky blackness and great shadow detail as well which is much more true to life.
> 
> Bottom line, HDR is brighter than SDR, and darker than SDR with many more graduations of contrast in between.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


So dumb question can you we still use your settings but just in Digital Ciname Mode with this as well "The only tweaks I made was to set lens iris to -4, and turning on auto iris to normal"?


----------



## Oledurt

rustolemite said:


> So dumb question can you we still use your settings but just in Digital Ciname Mode with this as well "The only tweaks I made was to set lens iris to -4, and turning on auto iris to normal"?




Using the bright cinema settings I put out will not work in digital cinema mode. Using my settings will not give you my results. several times in this thread I have given my gamma curve that I use in digital cinema mode.

I am trying to pass along things I have learned since purchasing this projector. 

First off, it is possible to calibrate the projector for digital cinema mode and HDR.

Second, you need to either a) Purchase your own video calibration equipment, and patterns or b) Hire a good ISF calibrator to do it for you.

Plugging my settings or anyone else's settings in may or may not give you decent results. You are flying blind.





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

rustolemite said:


> So dumb question can you we still use your settings but just in Digital Ciname Mode with this as well "The only tweaks I made was to set lens iris to -4, and turning on auto iris to normal"?



What I got from reading his post is that really we can't re-create his current settings without having the projector professionally calibrated? I could be wrong though. 

For now I'm just going to keep using his original Bright Cinema settings because they look amazing. If it is possible to improve on my own without a calibration great, if not I'll "settle" for how it is now.


----------



## carp

Ah, he beat me to it.


----------



## panman40

As using high lamp on the Epson is a complete non starter for myself due to the helicopter overhead noise the only way I can use digital cinema is with either Dave Harper's HDR - SDR settings or bumping up the HDR dynamic range control on the Panasonic players, my other option for UHD/HDR is bright cinema in Eco lamp with gamma at +1. (Contrast and brightness set using masciolas patterns on USB).


----------



## Bob Sorel

I want to purchase the Masciola Test Pattern Suite for both HD and UHD/HDR-10. Are the 1080p patterns (HD - REC.709) included in the $25 package or do they need to be purchased separately for an additional $5?


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> As using high lamp on the Epson is a complete non starter for myself due to the helicopter overhead noise the only way I can use digital cinema is with either Dave Harper's HDR - SDR settings or bumping up the HDR dynamic range control on the Panasonic players, my other option for UHD/HDR is bright cinema in Eco lamp with gamma at +1. (Contrast and brightness set using masciolas patterns on USB).



Just make the settings what is best for you, and enjoy it. They won't be to ISF standards but so what...Not everyone needs a perfectly calibrated image. I paid nearly $500 for all my calibrations. To me it is worth that money. It may not be for others, and I respect that.

I have used these forums for research for over 10 years back when digital surround was new and this thing called HDMI were the amazing new technologies. 

I try to give back to the community what I can for all the information I have learned off these forums. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## webmst

Dear All,
here is a good resource to start your own calibration journey 

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322

I don't have any current "interest" in these people - other than I like them and their product approach


----------



## dimi123

Oledurt said:


> Hey,
> 
> I get an amazing picture.
> 
> I already posted the custom gamma curve I use but I will do it again. This is to be used in digital cinema mode.
> 
> -1,-1,-3,-3,-3,-6,-7,-8,-5
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Dear Oledurt,

thank you for sharing your gamma curve settings! Until now I wasn’t able to fully enjoy my over 50 UHD disc collection due to an underwhelming HDR watching experience on my Epson TW9300 (5040/6040). Dave Harper’s settings helped and for awhile I was quite satisfied, but after trying out your gamma settings and some tweaking of brightness and contrast I was able to achieve a picture that’s as close to perfection as possible (at least to my eyes, I don‘t use measuring equipment). When calibrating for HDR I only use one UHD disc - The Legend Of Tarzan, the beginning of chapter 4, the clouds in the sky, as the benefits of HDR are clearly visible in that scene. I’ve finally arrived at a setting that works for the majority of UHD discs I own. I use an OPPO UDP-203 in combination with an anamorphic lens and a 135“ Stewart StudioTek 100 scope screen in a bat cave. Here are my settings for anyone who would like to try them out:

Digital Cinema Mode

Brightness: 50

Contrast: 70

Color Saturation: 60

Color Temperature: 5

Skin Tone: 3

Customized (just my personal preference): Offset R – 47, Offset G – 45, Offset B – 49

Gamma: Oledurt’s latest for Digital Cinema

EPSON Super White: OFF

Lens Iris: 0

Power Consumption: High

Auto Iris: Normal

HDMI Video Range: Expanded

Dynamic Range: Auto

P.S.: It's even watchable without the A lens and on medium power consumption.


----------



## cdnmiggy

Oledurt said:


> This post will draw some heat so here goes...
> 
> I spent around 5 hours with my Calibrator yesterday. We worked on Digital Cinema, and I had him test Dave's Harpervision settings. I watched him go through his routine. He uses very expensive equipment over 20k.
> 
> First off, we did achieve a full calibration in digital cinema mode clipping the whites at 1000 nits. In the range the projector can do the gamma tracked the EOTF perfectly. Blacks are as good as they can get on the Epson. He also re did the CMS a different way and made the colors even more accurate. The HDR picture is stunning.
> 
> First we attempted to not use the brightness or contrast settings and just use the gamma to get the projector to extend to 1000 nits on R Masciola's test pattern. We had to push the gamma to its max but we did achieve it. Problem is the gamma was pushed too much and it distorted the fleshtones. There is not enough range in the gamma to do this.
> 
> So we had to back the gamma curve off a bit and use the brightness and contrast settings. With this we were able to get a perfect image clipping the peak whites at 1000 nits. The picture looked amazing.
> 
> Now on to Dave Harpers settings *flame suit on*. I want to say up front if you like these settings use them it is your projector your room, and I know that Dave really wants to help the community, and I respect that.
> 
> That being said when we tested them it did not test well. The EOTF was way too bright, but you may be able to adjust gamma to get that in line. The colors on the other hand were a mess. They were way off. You cannot correct the SDR color mapping. So you may be able to create a grayscale using gamma correction but your colors will be way off, and you cannot correct that.
> 
> I only want to share what I learned. It is your projector use it how you wish, and I hope you enjoy it. I know I love this projector. By the way the gamma curve I am using is the one I have already shared here. My CMS settings won't work for you but if you can get them calibrated with test equipment I highly recommend it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I've got a question regarding calibration. Once you've got it all calibrated and performing at it's best, what happens when you replace the bulb? Do you carry on and just tweak the brightness? Do you start over? Or are you really calibrating to your room, furnishings and screen and a new bulb won't make much difference?

Thanks


----------



## Bob Sorel

> I've got a question regarding calibration. Once you've got it all calibrated and performing at it's best, what happens when you replace the bulb? Do you carry on and just tweak the brightness? Do you start over? Or are you really calibrating to your room, furnishings and screen and a new bulb won't make much difference?


Calibration is a whole bunch of circumstances forced to conform to standards _*at one particular point in time.*_ An hour later, the calibration will have changed and will require constant recalibration depending on your own personal level of OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder), so calibration is at its peak for just a single moment in time - the time when the calibration is completed. How quickly your system strays from this maximized calibration depends mostly on the age and characteristics of the lamp used, but other factors (like room color changes, heat effects, peripheral equipment, etc.) all enter into the equation to further degrade the maximized norm that you have just realized.

I was a big calibration advocate back in the CRT and early digital PJ days, but when I finally saw the light (pun intended), I realized that I was spending far more time calibrating stuff (audio and video) than I was _enjoying_ the gear by watching movies and listening to music. So now I just calibrate things to get them in the right ballpark and then USE my equipment for quite awhile until I decide that I should spend some time recalibrating again. I've adjusted my "fun" ratio from 10:1 (calibrating to enjoying ratio) to about 1:100, thanks to Mr. Monk's TV show...

Oh, and BTW, I don't perform a full calibration until the lamp settles in at about 100 hours, as the color balance of a newer lamp changes very quickly, and after ~100 hours the changes tend to happen more slowly.


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> Using the bright cinema settings I put out will not work in digital cinema mode. Using my settings will not give you my results. several times in this thread I have given my gamma curve that I use in digital cinema mode.
> 
> I am trying to pass along things I have learned since purchasing this projector.
> 
> First off, it is possible to calibrate the projector for digital cinema mode and HDR.
> 
> Second, you need to either a) Purchase your own video calibration equipment, and patterns or b) Hire a good ISF calibrator to do it for you.
> 
> Plugging my settings or anyone else's settings in may or may not give you decent results. You are flying blind.


Just want to say thanks again to Oledurt and call out that to me this is one of the most important posts in this forum. With my set up, I need at least 6 separate calibrations to account for all the devices and sources I use. And when I calibrate each of these I sometimes need dramatically different settings. For example, using my Nvidia Shield at 24p vs. 60p requires a completely different gamma curve to get to a 2.2 gamma for SDR. 

I have now started doing the HDR calibration for my set up. And my initial results are landing much closer to Dave's settings. Now that I am taking my own measurements, I can see why his gamma curve is the way it is. At the default setting of 0, the curve is very flat and way too high vs. the EOTF at the low part of the curve. This requires pushing the curve way down at that part, so my settings are similar to his "S" curve model, targeting 1,000 nits as the clipping point. And when I put contrast at 100, it still doesn't crush the whites when using Masciola's contrast patterns. So I see why he used that setting as well. When I watch HDR, it looks great. There are some scenes that are still darker than you normally see with SDR but it is also very bright. 

I still need to work on it more, but I wanted to share these initial findings with people so they understand that Dave's settings are likely calibrated or close to it for his set up and Oledurt's are obviously calibrated for his. Seems as though your devices, sources, and environment can have a huge impact on the ideal settings.


----------



## Oledurt

dimi123 said:


> Dear Oledurt,
> 
> 
> 
> thank you for sharing your gamma curve settings! Until now I wasn’t able to fully enjoy my over 50 UHD disc collection due to an underwhelming HDR watching experience on my Epson TW9300 (5040/6040). Dave Harper’s settings helped and for awhile I was quite satisfied, but after trying out your gamma settings and some tweaking of brightness and contrast I was able to achieve a picture that’s as close to perfection as possible (at least to my eyes, I don‘t use measuring equipment). When calibrating for HDR I only use one UHD disc - The Legend Of Tarzan, the beginning of chapter 4, the clouds in the sky, as the benefits of HDR are clearly visible in that scene. I’ve finally arrived at a setting that works for the majority of UHD discs I own. I use an OPPO UDP-203 in combination with an anamorphic lens and a 135“ Stewart StudioTek 100 scope screen in a bat cave. Here are my settings for anyone who would like to try them out:
> 
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema Mode
> 
> 
> 
> Brightness: 50
> 
> 
> 
> Contrast: 70
> 
> 
> 
> Color Saturation: 60
> 
> 
> 
> Color Temperature: 5
> 
> 
> 
> Skin Tone: 3
> 
> 
> 
> Customized (just my personal preference): Offset R – 47, Offset G – 45, Offset B – 49
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma: Oledurt’s latest for Digital Cinema
> 
> 
> 
> EPSON Super White: OFF
> 
> 
> 
> Lens Iris: 0
> 
> 
> 
> Power Consumption: High
> 
> 
> 
> Auto Iris: Normal
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI Video Range: Expanded
> 
> 
> 
> Dynamic Range: Auto
> 
> 
> 
> P.S.: It's even watchable without the A lens and on medium power consumption.




Couple tweaks to try. Lower your contrast, mine is currently sitting at 15. Increase your brightness a bit. Mine is sitting at 57. R. Masciolas white and black clipping patterns are perfect for setting these.

set HDMI range to normal, and most importantly set your dynamic range to auto (bright).

Give it a try, and let me know what you think.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

Bob Sorel said:


> Calibration is a whole bunch of circumstances forced to conform to standards _*at one particular point in time.*_ An hour later, the calibration will have changed and will require constant recalibration depending on your own personal level of OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder), so calibration is at its peak for just a single moment in time - the time when the calibration is completed. How quickly your system strays from this maximized calibration depends mostly on the age and characteristics of the lamp used, but other factors (like room color changes, heat effects, peripheral equipment, etc.) all enter into the equation to further degrade the maximized norm that you have just realized.
> 
> I was a big calibration advocate back in the CRT and early digital PJ days, but when I finally saw the light (pun intended), I realized that I was spending far more time calibrating stuff (audio and video) than I was _enjoying_ the gear by watching movies and listening to music. So now I just calibrate things to get them in the right ballpark and then USE my equipment for quite awhile until I decide that I should spend some time recalibrating again. I've adjusted my "fun" ratio from 10:1 (calibrating to enjoying ratio) to about 1:100, thanks to Mr. Monk's TV show...
> 
> Oh, and BTW, I don't perform a full calibration until the lamp settles in at about 100 hours, as the color balance of a newer lamp changes very quickly, and after ~100 hours the changes tend to happen more slowly.




re: the lamp.

I had it calibrated when my lamp was sitting at about 400 hours. I know that as it ages it will change, and a new bulb is different too.

I am not that anal! If I see some dramatic difference while watching movies I will make some changes. 

I doubt, however that it would be such a dramatic change as to affect the movie watching experience.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

jwhn said:


> Just want to say thanks again to Oledurt and call out that to me this is one of the most important posts in this forum. With my set up, I need at least 6 separate calibrations to account for all the devices and sources I use. And when I calibrate each of these I sometimes need dramatically different settings. For example, using my Nvidia Shield at 24p vs. 60p requires a completely different gamma curve to get to a 2.2 gamma for SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I have now started doing the HDR calibration for my set up. And my initial results are landing much closer to Dave's settings. Now that I am taking my own measurements, I can see why his gamma curve is the way it is. At the default setting of 0, the curve is very flat and way too high vs. the EOTF at the low part of the curve. This requires pushing the curve way down at that part, so my settings are similar to his "S" curve model, targeting 1,000 nits as the clipping point. And when I put contrast at 100, it still doesn't crush the whites when using Masciola's contrast patterns. So I see why he used that setting as well. When I watch HDR, it looks great. There are some scenes that are still darker than you normally see with SDR but it is also very bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to work on it more, but I wanted to share these initial findings with people so they understand that Dave's settings are likely calibrated or close to it for his set up and Oledurt's are obviously calibrated for his. Seems as though your devices, sources, and environment can have a huge impact on the ideal settings.




How are your colors mapping with dynamic range set in SDR mode?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> How are your colors mapping with dynamic range set in SDR mode?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I wasn't able to get to colors yet. ; ) Gamma curve is very time consuming and obviously one of the critical things to get right. Once I get to colors, I can let you know. Plan is to use 50% saturation / 50% intensity patterns with the bt.2020 color space setting.


----------



## dimi123

Oledurt said:


> Couple tweaks to try. Lower your contrast, mine is currently sitting at 15. Increase your brightness a bit. Mine is sitting at 57. R. Masciolas white and black clipping patterns are perfect for setting these.
> 
> set HDMI range to normal, and most importantly set your dynamic range to auto (bright).
> 
> Give it a try, and let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Wow, your settings are really good, colors pop much more. Thank you so much for this! I really appreciate it.


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> How are your colors mapping with dynamic range set in SDR mode?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 question you may know, I had my display calibrated in digital cinema SDR 2020, could I use the CMS and RGBYM in that calibration, add in your gamma curve and brightness, contrast, ECT settings


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> question you may know, I had my display calibrated in digital cinema SDR 2020, could I use the CMS and RGBYM in that calibration, add in your gamma curve and brightness, contrast, ECT settings




you can do whatever you want...the gamma curve was created for digital cinema auto (bright) HDR 1. 

will it work for you in that capacity? Any gamma curve will "work". It will not properly track the EOTF therefor it will not be correct.

What is the goal you are trying to reach as it relates to picture quality.

Pay special attention to page 9.

https://pro.sony.com/bbsccms/assets/files/cat/hdr/latest/MK20109V1_1_HDR.pdf

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> you can do whatever you want...the gamma curve was created for digital cinema auto (bright) HDR 1.
> 
> will it work for you in that capacity? Any gamma curve will "work". It will not properly track the EOTF therefor it will not be correct.
> 
> What is the goal you are trying to reach as it relates to picture quality.
> 
> Pay special attention to page 9.
> 
> https://pro.sony.com/bbsccms/assets/files/cat/hdr/latest/MK20109V1_1_HDR.pdf
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 I will check outv that link. I want good Detail and popping colors. HV is a great, your settings in bright cinema where a bit dark. But the detail was amazing.

I do haveba calibrated HDR bright cinema file but he did not calibrate the rgbcym justv the greyscale (offset/gain) for some reason. I am thinking maybe using your bright cinema settings with his calibrated greyscalev then add in your RGBYMC settings. I know those settings are good, to many people like them. Don't understand why they are dark. Maybe its the movie I tested it on. If I raise brightness doesn't that wash out black levels?


----------



## robc1976

dimi123 said:


> Dear Oledurt,
> 
> thank you for sharing your gamma curve settings! Until now I wasn’t able to fully enjoy my over 50 UHD disc collection due to an underwhelming HDR watching experience on my Epson TW9300 (5040/6040). Dave Harper’s settings helped and for awhile I was quite satisfied, but after trying out your gamma settings and some tweaking of brightness and contrast I was able to achieve a picture that’s as close to perfection as possible (at least to my eyes, I don‘t use measuring equipment). When calibrating for HDR I only use one UHD disc - The Legend Of Tarzan, the beginning of chapter 4, the clouds in the sky, as the benefits of HDR are clearly visible in that scene. I’ve finally arrived at a setting that works for the majority of UHD discs I own. I use an OPPO UDP-203 in combination with an anamorphic lens and a 135“ Stewart StudioTek 100 scope screen in a bat cave. Here are my settings for anyone who would like to try them out:
> 
> Digital Cinema Mode
> 
> Brightness: 50
> 
> Contrast: 70
> 
> Color Saturation: 60
> 
> Color Temperature: 5
> 
> Skin Tone: 3
> 
> Customized (just my personal preference): Offset R – 47, Offset G – 45, Offset B – 49
> 
> Gamma: Oledurt’s latest for Digital Cinema
> 
> EPSON Super White: OFF
> 
> Lens Iris: 0
> 
> Power Consumption: High
> 
> Auto Iris: Normal
> 
> HDMI Video Range: Expanded
> 
> Dynamic Range: Auto
> 
> P.S.: It's even watchable without the A lens and on medium power consumption.


 going to try these settings, my room is completely dark, is yours? 

Hdmi video range = expanded, doesn't that mess with colors? I have my rgbcym calibrated and I believe this may interfere with colors?


----------



## dimi123

robc1976 said:


> going to try these settings, my room is completely dark, is yours?
> 
> Hdmi video range = expanded, doesn't that mess with colors? I have my rgbcym calibrated and I believe this may interfere with colors?


Hi,
yes, my room is completely black. I used Expanded Video Range in order to counter the Auto/HDR2 setting as I didn't like what Auto (Bright)/HDR1 did to the whites. After trying out Oledurt's settings I must admit that contrast and colors are much improved and I've now changed to his settings. I now have Brightness at 60, Contrast at 15, Color at 50 as well as Normal Video Range and Auto (Bright) dynamic range.


----------



## john barlow

limulus said:


> I currently have a Pioneer ELITE Pro FPJ1 (same as JVC DLA-RS2). It is 9-10 yrs old. Mine either needs a new lamp or suddenly has other issues. Picture quality suddenly went south. I started thinking about buying a new lamp but then realized this pj is 9yrs old and I'm certain, it is obsolete in tech and picture quality. I don't come on AVS much these days and I already see I'm way out of touch. All the talk is about 4k/UHD, HDR. I'm also reading about pixel shifting and other terms I don't know.
> 
> I recently replaced my Pioneer BD player that I loved with a new Oppo UDP 203. So at least I was smart enough to do that. I still don't have a "modern" processor or AVR. Mine is an HK AVR 7200 from 2002 which in the day cost $2k. I have an Emo XPA-3 amp for the front three channels and I use the 7200 for the 4 surrounds. I currently just run the cable from the Oppo through the ceiling since the 7200 does not have HDMI (yeah, I know). I don't really care about 3D but I do care about contrast and black levels. The FPJ1 had awesome black levels but was not bright at all (600 lumens and 30,000:1 CR). It appears that most new projectors beat that for a LOT less money. Also, I do stream some through my Oppo 203 using a Roku stick but I don't think I care about 4k.
> 
> I'll probably do some reading and try to figure out what all the new stuff is. I never really liked DLP projectors but that was 10yrs ago. I think the new DLPs have to be better than 10yrs ago. Can I "assume" I'll like something like the 5040ub and get much better picture quality than I did with my FPJ1 which was D-ILA? Yeah, I just want to do a "little" research and pull the trigger on something. The FPJ1 was originally $9k and I know I can get better quality for much less and that is why I'm now looking in the


----------



## robc1976

dimi123 said:


> Hi,
> yes, my room is completely black. I used Expanded Video Range in order to counter the Auto/HDR2 setting as I didn't like what Auto (Bright)/HDR1 did to the whites. After trying out Oledurt's settings I must admit that contrast and colors are much improved and I've now changed to his settings. I now have Brightness at 60, Contrast at 15, Color at 50 as well as Normal Video Range and Auto (Bright) dynamic range.


 you mindv sharing your cms/rgb color settings if you have time?


----------



## john barlow

Oledurt said:


> I cannot say for sure how his software was setup, but I watched him do the tests, and by the time he dialed in the gamma curve it tracked his eotf curve perfectly within the range the projector could do.
> 
> I would have to ask what it was targeting. I applaud your efforts with the meter. I can say that if you desire a good picture you have to calibrate this projector with test equipment. If you don't have it or don't have the skill you should hire someone.
> 
> This projector really does not do HDR well without calibration. Especially a custom gamma curve. Since Epson does not provide one nor offer any advice you have to figure it out yourself. JVC does a much better job of telling folks how to setup their projectors for HDR.
> 
> I wish Epson would do the same for their buyers.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'd settle for a 18GBPS HDMI board upgrade from Epson. That would be a Godsend.


----------



## john barlow

robc1976 said:


> going to try these settings, my room is completely dark, is yours?
> 
> Hdmi video range = expanded, doesn't that mess with colors? I have my rgbcym calibrated and I believe this may interfere with colors?


Thanks, my response guarantees I can find these settings when needed.


----------



## dimi123

robc1976 said:


> you mindv sharing your cms/rgb color settings if you have time?


I haven't made any changes to the RGBCMY settings. The only changes I made were under Color Temperature where I did offset R,G,B to my personal preference. I like cooler colors.


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> Just make the settings what is best for you, and enjoy it. They won't be to ISF standards but so what...Not everyone needs a perfectly calibrated image. I paid nearly $500 for all my calibrations. To me it is worth that money. It may not be for others, and I respect that.
> 
> I have used these forums for research for over 10 years back when digital surround was new and this thing called HDMI were the amazing new technologies.
> 
> I try to give back to the community what I can for all the information I have learned off these forums.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That's pretty much what I do, my SDR rec709 is fully calibrated and looks excellent, I still haven't had the inclination to sort out HDR as yet though, I'm going to have my meter reprofiled next month to ensure accuracy and at the same time upgrade my calibration software to cover HDR CMS.

What you and Dave have contributed seems to have been very useful to a lot of Epson owners which is great .

Martin.


----------



## WynsWrld98

john barlow said:


> I'd settle for a 18GBPS HDMI board upgrade from Epson. That would be a Godsend.


Highly doubtful an upgrade will be offered for the 5040/6040 but I bet it will be included in the 5050/6050 possibly announced at CEDIA 9/2017...


----------



## dlambe

*5040/6040 Panning Judder*

Hey all,

Have a quick few questions about the 5040/6040, as I am looking to purchase one in the imminent weeks.

I went to Best Buy yesterday and watched the 5040 they had (on a SI Black Diamond 92"), and a few things that I wanted to see if this is common with this projector.
1. The general motion was OK (1080p Bluray) - not outstanding like many people are reporting (or like the videos people are putting on Youtube), FI was greyed out - and reading this thread there is a bit of tweaking to do? ... the BB guy was not giving me the remote 
2. They put on the new X-Men, and the panning judder was pretty horrendous (MY old Panasonic 1080p (AE7000 AU Model) I never noticed it being bad) - in the part when the stadium lifted off the ground - the background was visibly skipping (green trees over white background) like a cheap tv with low hz rating. Is the padding judder normal on these, or just simply set wrongly - I would like to see if this is a setting and sit down with BB and play with it.
3. Any reason (in the hardware) to purchase the 6040 over the 5040? Screen size is a 128" wide.

I've pretty much watched every 5040/6040 video - and HatlessChimp's videos are the number one reason I'm looking at this, but the judder thing is something that can't be unseen 

Cheers.
D.


----------



## Lesmor

dlambe said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Have a quick few questions about the 5040/6040, as I am looking to purchase one in the imminent weeks.
> 
> I went to Best Buy yesterday and watched the 5040 they had (on a SI Black Diamond 92"), and a few things that I wanted to see if this is common with this projector.
> 1. The general motion was OK (1080p Bluray) - not outstanding like many people are reporting (or like the videos people are putting on Youtube), FI was greyed out - and reading this thread there is a bit of tweaking to do? ... the BB guy was not giving me the remote
> 2. They put on the new X-Men, and the panning judder was pretty horrendous (MY old Panasonic 1080p (AE7000 AU Model) I never noticed it being bad) - in the part when the stadium lifted off the ground - the background was visibly skipping (green trees over white background) like a cheap tv with low hz rating. Is the padding judder normal on these, or just simply set wrongly - I would like to see if this is a setting and sit down with BB and play with it.
> 3. Any reason (in the hardware) to purchase the 6040 over the 5040? Screen size is a 128" wide.
> 
> I've pretty much watched every 5040/6040 video - and HatlessChimp's videos are the number one reason I'm looking at this, but the judder thing is something that can't be unseen
> 
> Cheers.
> D.


I think it is only fair to say that what you saw at BB is representative of the poor 24p motion handling of these Epsons
If FI was greyed out then 4K enhancement was On
Even with 4K enhancement Off and using Fi things don't get any better
I am experimenting with my player set to 1080P 60Hz which seems to make things far better

Epson really should address the poor motion handling with a firmware update,but I won't hold my breath


----------



## RLBURNSIDE

If you aren't running your projector at 24p you will see 3:2 pulldown judder, which is different than normal 24p judder in that it's like hiccups and quite a bit more distracting during panning.

These Epsons can't do FI at 4K, right? So the only way is to downscale to 1080p24 then have the projector interpolate it. It's going to be lower res for sure but likely much, much smoother. Let's hope the 5050 has FI working at 4K as well as 18 gbps inputs to be able to game at 4K60 in HDR. Plus hopefully more lumens for HDR or perhaps even laser.


----------



## Fosgatt

Do you guys use a different calibration/mode for HDR and 1080p?


----------



## Lesmor

*If you aren't running your projector at 24p you will see 3:2 pulldown judder, which is different than normal 24p judder in that it's like hiccups and quite a bit more distracting during panning.*
To be clear I do run the projector in 24p for both HD and UHD
With what you are saying there shouldn't be no 3:2 pulldown
Unfortunately it looks exactly as the OP described 
What is interesting is that like the OP I also came from a 8yr old Panasonic albeit the AE3000 which never had any motion issues
As the song says "You don't know what you got till its gone"
This falls squarely on Epsons poor 24p motion handling and useless FI in 1080 24p

*These Epsons can't do FI at 4K, right? So the only way is to downscale to 1080p24 then have the projector interpolate it. It's going to be lower res for sure but likely much, much smoother.* 
Just because the FI is greyed in 4K does not mean that the Epson is not doing some kind of FI in the background 
I certainly wouldn't be taking a 4K UHD 24p disc and downscaling it at the risk of experiencing the judder and hiccup effect.


----------



## Lesmor

Fosgatt said:


> Do you guys use a different calibration/mode for HDR and 1080p?


I do
I imagine everyone else is the same as you won't get a universal setting and calibration for HDR and 1080p


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> *If you aren't running your projector at 24p you will see 3:2 pulldown judder, which is different than normal 24p judder in that it's like hiccups and quite a bit more distracting during panning.*
> To be clear I do run the projector in 24p for both HD and UHD
> With what you are saying there shouldn't be no 3:2 pulldown
> Unfortunately it looks exactly as the OP described
> What is interesting is that like the OP I also came from a 8yr old Panasonic albeit the AE3000 which never had any motion issues
> As the song says "You don't know what you got till its gone"
> This falls squarely on Epsons poor 24p motion handling and useless FI in 1080 24p
> 
> *These Epsons can't do FI at 4K, right? So the only way is to downscale to 1080p24 then have the projector interpolate it. It's going to be lower res for sure but likely much, much smoother.*
> Just because the FI is greyed in 4K does not mean that the Epson is not doing some kind of FI in the background
> I certainly wouldn't be taking a 4K UHD 24p disc and downscaling it at the risk of experiencing the judder and hiccup effect.


Andy, have you contacted Epson about this ?, From reading up the previous model to ours the tw9200 had better motion handling. Might be worth emailing Epson Atleast.

Martin.


----------



## Lesmor

panman40 said:


> Andy, have you contacted Epson about this ?, From reading up the previous model to ours the tw9200 had better motion handling. Might be worth emailing Epson Atleast.
> 
> Martin.


Hi Martin
I really should but I haven't got round to it yet
The issue would certainly make me think twice about buying a Epson again
If a 8yr old Panny can get it right then so much for progress


----------



## rustolemite

Just a heads up if anybody is using the URC-MX990 remote with their 5040 the codes that work are all the way at the bottom of the list and just # 1,2,3.


----------



## rustolemite

Have a question I am using the Sony UBP-X800 and the Nvidia shield and loaded up Daredevil Season 2 on Netflix on both and the picture was way better on the Sony and idea why? Using the same Epson settings on each device.

Thanks


----------



## dlambe

Lesmor said:


> I think it is only fair to say that what you saw at BB is representative of the poor 24p motion handling of these Epsons
> If FI was greyed out then 4K enhancement was On
> Even with 4K enhancement Off and using Fi things don't get any better
> I am experimenting with my player set to 1080P 60Hz which seems to make things far better
> 
> Epson really should address the poor motion handling with a firmware update,but I won't hold my breath


I went into a different BB today and tested their 6040 - much much better.

Not sure if it was the video player, the disc, or the PJ, but night and day difference.

Watched a scene from the new star wars (haven't seen it personally), and without any FI on - it looks rather natural. Is there a way to make the FI less aggressive? The Low setting gives it immediate Soap Opera effect.

My only dilemma now is I then tested the JVC-DLA-x570R, and that was unfortunately smoother again.

The JVC has 3 different styles of Motion control - 2 of which would be great for games (Low Latency control + Motion), and the other one which allowed Inverse Telescene (which gave a great smooth motion) and a MPC mode which was the smoothest of them all. I did like the fact that in some of the modes you can adjust the smoothness of the picture.

Is there a way to do this with the 5040?

Any reason to purchase the 6040 over the 5040 - Hardware/Software wise?

Cheers.


----------



## jwhn

rustolemite said:


> Have a question I am using the Sony UBP-X800 and the Nvidia shield and loaded up Daredevil Season 2 on Netflix on both and the picture was way better on the Sony and idea why? Using the same Epson settings on each device.
> 
> Thanks


What settings are you using on the Nvidia? Are you running it in 60p or 24p?


----------



## rustolemite

jwhn said:


> What settings are you using on the Nvidia? Are you running it in 60p or 24p?


4k 60hz the colors are the same just the brightness is so much better on the Sony and not sure why. 
Didn't think anything would beat the Shield will try my Amazon Prime on both and see if the difference is the same.


----------



## robc1976

Can somebody please tell me what "epson super white" does?. I was messing around with settings on my calibrated 1080p 709 file in digital cinema and accidentally turned epson super white off. The picture seems a bit more bright, colors pop more and I believe the shadow detail is better. My calibrator had it turned on.

My question is what effect will this have on greyscale, colors, contrast ect?


----------



## jwhn

rustolemite said:


> 4k 60hz the colors are the same just the brightness is so much better on the Sony and not sure why.
> 
> Didn't think anything would beat the Shield will try my Amazon Prime on both and see if the difference is the same.



It likely needs calibration. I needed to spend a lot of time to get the gamma curve right for the Nvidia.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dev23007

*Please help*

Can someone help me I have a Epson 5040 ub, and I have read through this thread extensively. To sum up can someone let me know if it is now possible to play .mkv format 4k movies with HDR 2020 from your pc to your Epson. every time I try this using pot player or kmplayer, I get a picture that is to dark, or to washed out. it doesn't seem like the projector handles it correctly. I have messed with the setting extensively, tried mad VR and other video filters with no luck. For instance La la land 4k .mkv in pot player with HDR forced settings on my projector looks dark and the colors oversaturated. the PQ actually looks downgraded from the regular blu ray. Any thoughts or ideas? is this just a 5040ub limitation? Will there be a firmware to correct this? Is the Phillips bluray the only way I am ever going to see true HDR 2020 on this projector? Thanks in advance!


----------



## rustolemite

dev23007 said:


> Can someone help me I have a Epson 5040 ub, and I have read through this thread extensively. To sum up can someone let me know if it is now possible to play .mkv format 4k movies with HDR 2020 from your pc to your Epson. every time I try this using pot player or kmplayer, I get a picture that is to dark, or to washed out. it doesn't seem like the projector handles it correctly. I have messed with the setting extensively, tried mad VR and other video filters with no luck. For instance La la land 4k .mkv in pot player with HDR forced settings on my projector looks dark and the colors oversaturated. the PQ actually looks downgraded from the regular blu ray. Any thoughts or ideas? is this just a 5040ub limitation? Will there be a firmware to correct this? Is the Phillips bluray the only way I am ever going to see true HDR 2020 on this projector? Thanks in advance!


Not sure about the settings on the Epson, still learning mine, but have your tried using Cyberlink PowerDVD software for video playback? 
Also I was using my PC to play all my MKVs but tried out the Shield w/Kodi and it does a much better job with the quality of the picture than the PC can.


----------



## robc1976

dimi123 said:


> I haven't made any changes to the RGBCMY settings. The only changes I made were under Color Temperature where I did offset R,G,B to my personal preference. I like cooler colors.


 I tried those digital cinema settings and its still to dark, brightness at 60 is to dark maybe move to 70, then adjust contrast? 

I ended up using a HDR file I had calibrated then used oledurts gamma, lowered contrast a bit, lowered brightness and increased color saturation.


----------



## aaranddeeman

robc1976 said:


> I tried those digital cinema settings and its still to dark, brightness at 60 is to dark maybe move to 70, then adjust contrast?
> 
> I ended up using a HDR file I had calibrated then used oledurts gamma, lowered contrast a bit, lowered brightness and increased color saturation.


I still favor Bright Cinema (gamma only) settings from @Oledurt 
I checked with his latest Digital Cinema gamma and it looked bit muted on my setup. So I am sticking with Bright Cinema for HDR at the moment.
For all else it's Cinema or Digital Cinema (as per my calibrated settings using HCFR)


----------



## hgmobile

*Need help with Roku Ultra and HDR*

No matter what I do I am unable to get Roku Ultra to output HDR to my 5040. I have latest firmware in my Roku as well as Yamaha AVR and the 5040. The Roku recognizes the 5040 as 4K HDR @30fps capable. I have set the Roku secret Menu to stream 4:2:0 and the Yamaha is in mode 1 so that it can stream all formats. Those last 2 settings based on various posts on the forums.

I know that the AVR when fed hdr signals from a PC was capable of displaying HDR on the 5040 using the same input and HDMI cable up to the 5040.

When I go into Netflix on the Roku and select known HDR programs what I see reported by the info screen is a refresh at 59.94, color depth of 8bit 4:2:0 and color format bt2020 SDR.

What have I got wrong here?

As an alternative are there any recommendations as to the Netflix/Amazon capabilities of the Sony/Samsung/Panasonic disc players. I am less concerned with disc playback than I am with being able to stream HDR when available.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## retro124

Hey guys, I have 65" 4k TV and I'm ready to upgrade. I been looking for some 75" option but at same time in that price point I see I can get projector and probably motorized 100" screen. Do you thing it is a good idea? Any recomendation for good screen and what projector to get?

I saw people talk good about those Sony VPL-HW45ES or Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB 


I have about 10-11f space between screen and projector ( I know 100" is maybe too much but I can use smaller size for now even 84"


Thanks for help.


----------



## panman40

robc1976 said:


> I tried those digital cinema settings and its still to dark, brightness at 60 is to dark maybe move to 70, then adjust contrast?
> 
> I ended up using a HDR file I had calibrated then used oledurts gamma, lowered contrast a bit, lowered brightness and increased color saturation.


To be honest I think your going overboard with the mish mash of settings.
You had a professional calibration and your just killing that with adding other owners settings.

There has to come a point you need to stop altering your paid for calibrated settings just because somebody says theres are great.

That's just my opinion though


----------



## john barlow

I'm hoping one of your terrific AVSForum members would be kind enough to link me to the upgrade page for our projector. I had downloaded it and now can't find it anywhere on my PC. If you could link it for me I'd be at your service. I need the software for the firmware upgrade to get HDR 1 in Auto.


----------



## john barlow

Lesmor said:


> *If you aren't running your projector at 24p you will see 3:2 pulldown judder, which is different than normal 24p judder in that it's like hiccups and quite a bit more distracting during panning.*
> To be clear I do run the projector in 24p for both HD and UHD
> With what you are saying there shouldn't be no 3:2 pulldown
> Unfortunately it looks exactly as the OP described
> What is interesting is that like the OP I also came from a 8yr old Panasonic albeit the AE3000 which never had any motion issues
> As the song says "You don't know what you got till its gone"
> This falls squarely on Epsons poor 24p motion handling and useless FI in 1080 24p
> 
> *These Epsons can't do FI at 4K, right? So the only way is to downscale to 1080p24 then have the projector interpolate it. It's going to be lower res for sure but likely much, much smoother.*
> Just because the FI is greyed in 4K does not mean that the Epson is not doing some kind of FI in the background
> I certainly wouldn't be taking a 4K UHD 24p disc and downscaling it at the risk of experiencing the judder and hiccup effect.


Has anyone ever officially ascertained the reason some owners have this issue and others, like me, never have? I'd love to see you get satisfaction because when you pick a greatly rendered UHD W/HDR on this projector and a compatible player, it's literally jaw dropping. I've been able to tweak this pj for almost every disc I've spun, so far. The Great Wall and Power Rangers are amazing and so is the HDR. Power Rangers is the number one demo for me to show off the sound quality capabilities of Dolby Atmos par excellence. Our cinema came alive as if the sound had become wholly organic and supernatural almost. Goosebumps and the hairs on the back of my neck stood at attention.


----------



## robc1976

panman40 said:


> To be honest I think your going overboard with the mish mash of settings.
> You had a professional calibration and your just killing that with adding other owners settings.
> 
> There has to come a point you need to stop altering your paid for calibrated settings just because somebody says theres are great.
> 
> That's just my opinion though


 on the HDR calibration he just adjusted gain offset, nothing with the gamma or cms RGBCMY. NOT real happy with it. But calibrators are not plentyfull out here. I got picture much better but could use imprvements


----------



## Oledurt

duplicate post deleted


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> I tried those digital cinema settings and its still to dark, brightness at 60 is to dark maybe move to 70, then adjust contrast?
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up using a HDR file I had calibrated then used oledurts gamma, lowered contrast a bit, lowered brightness and increased color saturation.




One thing I will say is that if you find the Picture too dark it is probably because your brightness is set improperly.

I know this is counter intuitive but you need to turn the brightness down not up. 

What happens is that when your reference black level is too high it causes the low end of the greyscale to not have enough variation. They blend into each other.

What you will see on the screen is a lot of lost shadow detail. ie. It looks too dark.

Think of sketching something on paper, and shading. if you get your black right it makes the sketch pop. It also makes the whites look brighter as well.

Same idea with the greyscale.

The thing with HDR is that dark scenes stay dark it's just that you can see more shadow detail than SDR. For example, being able to make out a dark grey vest under a black suit in a dark scene like john wick 2. In SDR the same scene the vest would blend in with the suit.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Natrix1973

john barlow said:


> I'm hoping one of your terrific AVSForum members would be kind enough to link me to the upgrade page for our projector. I had downloaded it and now can't find it anywhere on my PC. If you could link it for me I'd be at your service. I need the software for the firmware upgrade to get HDR 1 in Auto.



Just Google Epson 5040 firmware and it is the first link that pops up. 5040 is towards the bottom of the page.

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## @TJ

@TJ said:


> Hope someone can help me with this - probably posted but cannot find any information.
> 
> I tried the 2D-> 3D but 3D setup is greyed out unless I have a 3D disk playing, and even with that the 2D -> 3D is greyed out - I found in an older thread you need to disable 4K enhancement, but even that is greyed out. Any ideas?
> thanks!


Figured this. My Samsung 4k blue ray player was up scaling to 4k hence disabling 4k enhancement and the 2D -> 3D options on the Epson. It did not matter if I was playing 1080p blu ray or running netflix or plex apps from the samsung. 
The workaround is to set the samsung video output to 1080p, then the epson options are available.


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> One thing I will say is that if you find the Picture too dark it is probably because your brightness is set improperly.
> 
> I know this is counter intuitive but you need to turn the brightness down not up.
> 
> What happens is that when your reference black level is too high it causes the low end of the greyscale to not have enough variation. They blend into each other.
> 
> What you will see on the screen is a lot of lost shadow detail. ie. It looks too dark.
> 
> Think of sketching something on paper, and shading. if you get your black right it makes the sketch pop. It also makes the whites look brighter as well.
> 
> Same idea with the greyscale.
> 
> The thing with HDR is that dark scenes stay dark it's just that you can see more shadow detail than SDR. For example, being able to make out a dark grey vest under a black suit in a dark scene like john wick 2. In SDR the same scene the vest would blend in with the suit.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 IF I turn down brightness I will have to adjust brightness correct?


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> IF I turn down brightness I will have to adjust brightness correct?




yes adjust brightness. To get this right you really need a test pattern like the R. Masciola ones. I highly recommend them. Not to expensive either. 

even If your brightness setting is off by one or two clicks it will wash out darker scenes.

you adjust brightness first than contrast.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

hgmobile said:


> No matter what I do I am unable to get Roku Ultra to output HDR to my 5040. I have latest firmware in my Roku as well as Yamaha AVR and the 5040. The Roku recognizes the 5040 as 4K HDR @30fps capable. I have set the Roku secret Menu to stream 4:2:0 and the Yamaha is in mode 1 so that it can stream all formats. Those last 2 settings based on various posts on the forums.
> 
> I know that the AVR when fed hdr signals from a PC was capable of displaying HDR on the 5040 using the same input and HDMI cable up to the 5040.
> 
> When I go into Netflix on the Roku and select known HDR programs what I see reported by the info screen is a refresh at 59.94, color depth of 8bit 4:2:0 and color format bt2020 SDR.
> 
> What have I got wrong here?
> 
> As an alternative are there any recommendations as to the Netflix/Amazon capabilities of the Sony/Samsung/Panasonic disc players. I am less concerned with disc playback than I am with being able to stream HDR when available.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I also am unable to stream HDR using the Roku. When I try setting the Roku to stream at 10 bit 4:2:0 in the hidden menu, I get a 'No Signal' indication on my 6040. I have to cycle power on the Roku to get the picture back. If anyone is having better luck at this, I would like to hear about it. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> yes adjust brightness. To get this right you really need a test pattern like the R. Masciola ones. I highly recommend them. Not to expensive either.
> 
> even If your brightness setting is off by one or two clicks it will wash out darker scenes.
> 
> you adjust brightness first than contrast.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 those are downloadable


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> yes adjust brightness. To get this right you really need a test pattern like the R. Masciola ones. I highly recommend them. Not to expensive either.
> 
> even If your brightness setting is off by one or two clicks it will wash out darker scenes.
> 
> you adjust brightness first than contrast.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 those are downloadable?


----------



## robc1976

Must say these epson's are junk, came home to turn on my projector and it won't turn guessing this hunk of junk is fried? 

Guess I will call epson in the morning get another one, sell it and get a real projector. I should have never cut corners with this cheap projector.


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> Must say these epson's are junk, came home to turn on my projector and it won't turn guessing this hunk of junk is fried?
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I will call epson in the morning get another one, sell it and get a real projector. I should have never cut corners with this cheap projector.




i had an issue with an epson before and they overnighted me a brand new one the next day. 

Great customer service in my opinion. And yes those pattetns are downloadable i have them on a usb stick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Ha! Ha! Grey scale and CMS made huge difference. Is your room dark and light controlled?



Yes, as you'll see below and as I've said all along, you'll get the very best results if you start with a full ISF calibration with the settings tailored to your environment. 




Oledurt said:


> This post will draw some heat so here goes...
> 
> I spent around 5 hours with my Calibrator yesterday. We worked on Digital Cinema, and I had him test Dave's Harpervision settings. I watched him go through his routine. He uses very expensive equipment over 20k.
> 
> First off, we did achieve a full calibration in digital cinema mode clipping the whites at 1000 nits. In the range the projector can do the gamma tracked the EOTF perfectly. Blacks are as good as they can get on the Epson. He also re did the CMS a different way and made the colors even more accurate. The HDR picture is stunning.
> 
> First we attempted to not use the brightness or contrast settings and just use the gamma to get the projector to extend to 1000 nits on R Masciola's test pattern. We had to push the gamma to its max but we did achieve it. Problem is the gamma was pushed too much and it distorted the fleshtones. There is not enough range in the gamma to do this.
> 
> So we had to back the gamma curve off a bit and use the brightness and contrast settings. With this we were able to get a perfect image clipping the peak whites at 1000 nits. The picture looked amazing.
> 
> Now on to Dave Harpers settings *flame suit on*. I want to say up front if you like these settings use them it is your projector your room, and I know that Dave really wants to help the community, and I respect that.
> 
> That being said when we tested them it did not test well. The EOTF was way too bright, but you may be able to adjust gamma to get that in line. The colors on the other hand were a mess. They were way off. You cannot correct the SDR color mapping. So you may be able to create a grayscale using gamma correction but your colors will be way off, and you cannot correct that.
> 
> I only want to share what I learned. It is your projector use it how you wish, and I hope you enjoy it. I know I love this projector. By the way the gamma curve I am using is the one I have already shared here. My CMS settings won't work for you but if you can get them calibrated with test equipment I highly recommend it.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Please explain what he meant by the EOTF being way too bright? If you're in SDR mode you're using a different gamma.

I was able to get my CMS in line and the colors just fine. What did he do to attempt to get it correct? Did he increase saturation at all? Mess with tint? I know that I had to change the phase a decent amount. What mode did he calibrate in and to, bt2020 or P3?

What version of HV did he use? The early preliminary one or one of the updated ones that I'm sure I posted?

I also used Masciola's patterns and had perfect 1000 nit clipping and black levels. 

No reason to have a flame suit on. We are all here to learn and take the advantages and benefits that everyone brings to the table. I would certainly love for you to share my contact info here with this Calibrator and have him PM me so I can get an idea on what he did any differently than I did and what he felt I can improve upon. 

I've been in this business since about 1991 and an enthusiast long before that, so I'm sure we can each share and come up with the best settings for everyone. 




robc1976 said:


> you still use these tweaks to Harper vision?
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Color saturation 70-75 instead of 80
> 
> 2. 2nd to last gamna point 15 instead of 16



I thought I posted a final update after I sold it and did the final calibration on it? I'll have to double check. 




robc1976 said:


> tried all that, no go. I did just improve harper vision, I had HV on a slot that just had grey scale calibrated. I just realized I also have a full 4K digital cinema 2020 with cms and greyscale calibration and put harper vision settings in that file and WOW!





robc1976 said:


> that would be why my calibrator could not adjust the color in the CMS do did as you said abs adjusted the greyscale. I then used a 4K HDR digital cinema file that had cms, greyscale then inputted Dave's settings and it looked the best.
> 
> 
> 
> I want to use your settings but its way to dark but its crisper. Aby ideas?. I have the 1.09 update and use HDR 1.



That's what I've said all along. You have to start with an ISF calibration first for it to be at its best. That's the science part. Then I apply the art on top of it.


----------



## Bob Sorel

Hi Dave,

The link in your signature does not work for me - it just brings me to the top of the current last page of this thread. Could you please post the post number of the most recent up-to-date versions of both your SDR settings and your HDR to SDR settings? I just want to make sure that I have the right ones.

Thanks!


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, as you'll see below and as I've said all along, you'll get the very best results if you start with a full ISF calibration with the settings tailored to your environment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please explain what he meant by the EOTF being way too bright? If you're in SDR mode you're using a different gamma.
> 
> I was able to get my CMS in line and the colors just fine. What did he do to attempt to get it correct? Did he increase saturation at all? Mess with tint? I know that I had to change the phase a decent amount. What mode did he calibrate in and to, bt2020 or P3?
> 
> What version of HV did he use? The early preliminary one or one of the updated ones that I'm sure I posted?
> 
> I also used Masciola's patterns and had perfect 1000 nit clipping and black levels.
> 
> No reason to have a flame suit on. We are all here to learn and take the advantages and benefits that everyone brings to the table. I would certainly love for you to share my contact info here with this Calibrator and have him PM me so I can get an idea on what he did any differently than I did and what he felt I can improve upon.
> 
> I've been in this business since about 1991 and an enthusiast long before that, so I'm sure we can each share and come up with the best settings for everyone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I posted a final update after I sold it and did the final calibration on it? I'll have to double check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I've said all along. You have to start with an ISF calibration first for it to be at its best. That's the science part. Then I apply the art on top of it.




Dave feel free to contact him. His name is Michael Boeker. 402-517-0271 High Impact AV.

http://www.highimpactav.com/

Not having a pissing contest. I am not an expert that is why I hired one. Call him and get your questions answered.

I just try to help, I am not some expert calibrator. I was just trying to help people by giving my settings. 

People can do whatever they want. People seem to love harpervision or whatever. Great. I hope they are happy with it.

I put my stuff on here...use it or dont i dont care. use any settings you want. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> Just want to say thanks again to Oledurt and call out that to me this is one of the most important posts in this forum. With my set up, I need at least 6 separate calibrations to account for all the devices and sources I use. And when I calibrate each of these I sometimes need dramatically different settings. For example, using my Nvidia Shield at 24p vs. 60p requires a completely different gamma curve to get to a 2.2 gamma for SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I have now started doing the HDR calibration for my set up. And my initial results are landing much closer to Dave's settings. Now that I am taking my own measurements, I can see why his gamma curve is the way it is. At the default setting of 0, the curve is very flat and way too high vs. the EOTF at the low part of the curve. This requires pushing the curve way down at that part, so my settings are similar to his "S" curve model, targeting 1,000 nits as the clipping point. And when I put contrast at 100, it still doesn't crush the whites when using Masciola's contrast patterns. So I see why he used that setting as well. When I watch HDR, it looks great. There are some scenes that are still darker than you normally see with SDR but it is also very bright.
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to work on it more, but I wanted to share these initial findings with people so they understand that Dave's settings are likely calibrated or close to it for his set up and Oledurt's are obviously calibrated for his. Seems as though your devices, sources, and environment can have a huge impact on the ideal settings.



Yes thanks for sharing. Mine are the way they are and different from Oledurt's awesome settings because mine uses SDR mode and his still use the HDR mode. Hence it makes total sense that our gamma curves are completely different.


----------



## urcha

Just got my Epson 5040ub in time for the Game of Thrones premier last night, and all I can say is wow! This is my first projector, and I'm amazed by it.

I'm toying around with settings, and so far this is my general settings:

- 1080p SDR content I use digital cinema mode with image enhancement set to 3.
- 4k HDR content I use bright cinema mode with HDR 1 selected

Am I missing something/doing anything wrong? I think the picture looks great on these, I just wanted to make sure. Also what is Super White? I leave it off, but not sure if I should or not... Thanks all for the input!


----------



## derekbrandon

After a month of reading reviews and comparing projectors...

Woohoo! We ordered an Epson 5040UBe and it will arrive tomorrow!

Throw will be about 15' so I'm going to start with a sheet on the wall and spend some time figuring out what size screen to buy. From what others have said here, it seems like the out-of-box settings will work while I get everything positioned and then I may want to calibrate in a month or two.

Thank you, as always, to the many folks who post to the AVS forums!


----------



## Craig Peer

The 5040 ( and e model) are back on sale from July 18th through the 26th ! $ 200.00 off ! Just FYI.


----------



## panman40

urcha said:


> Just got my Epson 5040ub in time for the Game of Thrones premier last night, and all I can say is wow! This is my first projector, and I'm amazed by it.
> 
> I'm toying around with settings, and so far this is my general settings:
> 
> - 1080p SDR content I use digital cinema mode with image enhancement set to 3.
> - 4k HDR content I use bright cinema mode with HDR 1 selected
> 
> Am I missing something/doing anything wrong? I think the picture looks great on these, I just wanted to make sure. Also what is Super White? I leave it off, but not sure if I should or not... Thanks all for the input!


To be honest your better off using Natural for SDR as digital cinema (and cinema) use the P3 filter which drops into the light path for wide colour gamut so not really suitable for rec709 sdr.

If your happy with the PQ though that's all that matters.


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> I wasn't able to get to colors yet. ; ) Gamma curve is very time consuming and obviously one of the critical things to get right. Once I get to colors, I can let you know. Plan is to use 50% saturation / 50% intensity patterns with the bt.2020 color space setting.



Yes 50% saturation is good to use. I also had some success with 75%, but I don't recall which projector it was.


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> One thing I will say is that if you find the Picture too dark it is probably because your brightness is set improperly.
> 
> *I know this is counter intuitive but you need to turn the brightness down not up.
> 
> What happens is that when your reference black level is too high it causes the low end of the greyscale to not have enough variation. They blend into each other.
> 
> What you will see on the screen is a lot of lost shadow detail. ie. It looks too dark.*
> 
> Think of sketching something on paper, and shading. if you get your black right it makes the sketch pop. It also makes the whites look brighter as well.
> 
> Same idea with the greyscale.
> 
> The thing with HDR is that dark scenes stay dark it's just that you can see more shadow detail than SDR. For example, being able to make out a dark grey vest under a black suit in a dark scene like john wick 2. In SDR the same scene the vest would blend in with the suit.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I think you have that backwards. It is when you turn the brightness down too much that you get crushing and blending together. Where all shades of black seems as one black blot of color. As you turn it up to the proper black level then the shadow details will start to appear, but if you go too high then they start to hazy and grey out and stop really being black anymore. It looks like a cheap business projector that has poor native contrast and black levels so what's supposed to be good video blacks are just washed out greys. 

The key is what you're saying though, use proper test patterns like R. Masciola's or those hidden on Sony discs to set it properly and you'll be golden. 




Bob Sorel said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> The link in your signature does not work for me - it just brings me to the top of the current last page of this thread. Could you please post the post number of the most recent up-to-date versions of both your SDR settings and your HDR to SDR settings? I just want to make sure that I have the right ones.
> 
> Thanks!



It shouldn't do that and I've tested it using Chrome browsers and I think IE and Firefox. I think I recall someone else saying that it depends on which device you're using and clicking from. Which are you trying it on? Try from a laptop or PC. 




Oledurt said:


> Dave feel free to contact him. His name is Michael Boeker. 402-517-0271 High Impact AV.
> 
> http://www.highimpactav.com/
> 
> *Not having a pissing contest.* I am not an expert that is why I hired one. Call him and get your questions answered.
> 
> I just try to help, I am not some expert calibrator. I was just trying to help people by giving my settings.
> 
> People can do whatever they want. People seem to love harpervision or whatever. Great. I hope they are happy with it.
> 
> I put my stuff on here...use it or dont i dont care. use any settings you want.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



No pissing contest here, man! Your settings are great and I've said on more than one occasion that they inspired the HarperVision custom gamma thing on the 5040! 




Lesmor said:


> .....
> 
> As the song says "You don't know what you got till its gone"......



Funny you mention that song from the band Cinderella from the '80's. I was acquainted with them long before they became big. I used to see them at the Empire Rock Club in Philly and we all hung at a diner late nights after shows. My sister dated the guitar player at one point and I used to bowl with the bass player's brother!


----------



## jedi1982

Craig Peer said:


> The 5040 ( and e model) are back on sale from July 18th through the 26th ! $ 200.00 off ! Just FYI.


This is great news! Will be getting mine


----------



## Bob Sorel

> It shouldn't do that and I've tested it using Chrome browsers and I think IE and Firefox. I think I recall someone else saying that it depends on which device you're using and clicking from. Which are you trying it on? Try from a laptop or PC.


I am running a Windows 10 PC. I normally use Firefox, but after reading your post I decided to try it with Chrome. Chrome works fine, but Firefox does not...I have no idea why, but as long as I can use Chrome to access your links, I am all set.

Thanks, Dave!


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> I think you have that backwards. It is when you turn the brightness down too much that you get crushing and blending together. Where all shades of black seems as one black blot of color. As you turn it up to the proper black level then the shadow details will start to appear, but if you go too high then they start to hazy and grey out and stop really being black anymore. It looks like a cheap business projector that has poor native contrast and black levels so what's supposed to be good video blacks are just washed out greys.
> 
> The key is what you're saying though, use proper test patterns like R. Masciola's or those hidden on Sony discs to set it properly and you'll be golden.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It shouldn't do that and I've tested it using Chrome browsers and I think IE and Firefox. I think I recall someone else saying that it depends on which device you're using and clicking from. Which are you trying it on? Try from a laptop or PC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No pissing contest here, man! Your settings are great and I've said on more than one occasion that they inspired the HarperVision custom gamma thing on the 5040!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny you mention that song from the band Cinderella from the '80's. I was acquainted with them long before they became big. I used to see them at the Empire Rock Club in Philly and we all hung at a diner late nights after shows. My sister dated the guitar player at one point and I used to bowl with the bass player's brother!




reference black. If you brightness is too high you turn it down if it is too low you turn it up. point is set reference black correctly.

Thanks for the kudos on the curve michael set for me. I initially didn't want to give my settings but I relented.

Thing is I regret doing it. Problem is people take them and try to Frankenstein pieces from someone else's calibration. Than they make judgements. "this curve makes it too dark" or "this mode washes out my colors". and than it becomes Oledurts settings or harpervision. 

Truth is my settings were calibrated for me in my room. They will only look good in my theater. Not anyone else's. If you want to see you will have to head to my house.

I should have kept them to myself. Next time I will keep my mouth shut.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

Oledurt said:


> reference black. If you brightness is too high you turn it down if it is too low you turn it up. point is set reference black correctly.
> 
> Thanks for the kudos on the curve michael set for me. I initially didn't want to give my settings but I relented.
> 
> Thing is I regret doing it. Problem is people take them and try to Frankenstein pieces from someone else's calibration. Than they make judgements. "this curve makes it too dark" or "this mode washes out my colors". and than it becomes Oledurts settings or harpervision.
> 
> Truth is my settings were calibrated for me in my room. They will only look good in my theater. Not anyone else's. If you want to see you will have to head to my house.
> 
> I should have kept them to myself. Next time I will keep my mouth shut.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Ehh... I wouldn't worry about people complaining, besides I've seen a lot more thankful posts in regards to your settings. I love your bright cinema settings. The funny/weird thing is that I had my 5040 calibrated by Michael (same guy that did yours) back in the winter when we were comparing the JVC RS500 and the 5040 in my room. Fast forward from that a couple weeks and my 5040 developed a solid blue line down the middle of the screen. I had a huge gathering coming up of somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 people that would be in my room to see my system 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-ar...sas-city-home-theater-crawl.html#post47574121

and i panicked. I quickly took down my projector and ran it up to Nebraska Furniture Mart to exchange it so that I'd be ready for the home theater crawl. In my haste I completely forgot to take pictures of all of Michaels settings. I was too busy being happy that NFM had lowered the price 200 bucks since I bought the first projector so they took 200 off what I originally paid to realize my mistake until a few days later when I was firing up the new projector. Ha, I never told Michael... to . 

So anyway, the 5040 looks incredible with your settings for bright cinema with HDR in my room for 4K disks. Besides, Michael didn't calibrate for HDR, just regular 1080p for the comparison, so I'd be using your settings anyway. 

So, long story short, I for one really appreciate you posting your settings.


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> reference black. If you brightness is too high you turn it down if it is too low you turn it up. point is set reference black correctly.
> 
> Thanks for the kudos on the curve michael set for me. I initially didn't want to give my settings but I relented.
> 
> Thing is I regret doing it. Problem is people take them and try to Frankenstein pieces from someone else's calibration. Than they make judgements. "this curve makes it too dark" or "this mode washes out my colors". and than it becomes Oledurts settings or harpervision.
> 
> Truth is my settings were calibrated for me in my room. They will only look good in my theater. Not anyone else's. If you want to see you will have to head to my house.
> 
> I should have kept them to myself. Next time I will keep my mouth shut.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yeah definitely spot on man! I do think you shouldn't regret posting though. I know how you feel, but overall I think it's for the best. Your settings and ideas can spurn an idea or others to delve deeper into things, which could in turn spurn a whole new thing, and so on. I say keep it coming Oledurt!


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> i had an issue with an epson before and they overnighted me a brand new one the next day.
> 
> Great customer service in my opinion. And yes those pattetns are downloadable i have them on a usb stick.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 I downloaded them, brightness was way off but I have no idea how to adjust contrast, it doesn't wich test pattern to use or what I am adjusting to?


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> I downloaded them, brightness was way off but I have no idea how to adjust contrast, it doesn't wich test pattern to use or what I am adjusting to?




white clipping pattern. adjust your contrast down until it extends to 1000 nits on the pattern.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> white clipping pattern. adjust your contrast down until it extends to 1000 nits on the pattern.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 I had it on 2:40 and didn't see the 1000 nit Mark lol


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> white clipping pattern. adjust your contrast down until it extends to 1000 nits on the pattern.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 barely flashing on 1000 nit correct? 

Thank you man


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> barely flashing on 1000 nit correct?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you man




yep that is it...watch a movie...enjoy


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> yep that is it...watch a movie...enjoy
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk[bQUOTE] On your bright cinema settings my contrast wss bad! Lowered it from 54 to 20.


----------



## Mikesp1

I am curious if anyone has gamma and maybe other settings for Dave's Harper Vision settings in medium or even eco lamp mode? 

I really love Dave's settings, the HDR to SDR brings the very best out of this projector but unfortunately the high lamp setting is too noisy for my little cinema room.

For the moment I use Dave's settings in medium lamp mode with gamma sitting at -2 with good results but maybe it can even be better with custom gamma settings.

Thanks!


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> yep that is it...watch a movie...enjoy
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


explain this I was using your destiniesl settings, I then used patterns to adjust brightness and contrast. Then some how lamp got put in high and in SDR and the picturev is simply amazing, colors, black levels ECT. 

My contrast is only at 20 and is still past 1000 nits no matter what you do with it but picture is amazing.

How is this possible?


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> explain this I was using your destiniesl settings, I then used patterns to adjust brightness and contrast. Then some how lamp got put in high and in SDR and the picturev is simply amazing, colors, black levels ECT.
> 
> 
> 
> My contrast is only at 20 and is still past 1000 nits no matter what you do with it but picture is amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> How is this possible?




I don't know ask harper he is the expert.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> I don't know ask harper he is the expert.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 I disagree, so are you. You have contributed a ton and has helped me a lot. 

I thank you for that


----------



## robc1976

Mikesp1 said:


> I am curious if anyone has gamma and maybe other settings for Dave's Harper Vision settings in medium or even eco lamp mode?
> 
> I really love Dave's settings, the HDR to SDR brings the very best out of this projector but unfortunately the high lamp setting is too noisy for my little cinema room.
> 
> For the moment I use Dave's settings in medium lamp mode with gamma sitting at -2 with good results but maybe it can even be better with custom gamma settings.
> 
> Thanks!


 how, its a bit darkb to me in high lamp, and I know brightness is set perfect with test patterns. I think maybe its the gamma needing adjustment.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> explain this I was using your destiniesl settings, I then used patterns to adjust brightness and contrast. Then some how lamp got put in high and in SDR and the picturev is simply amazing, colors, black levels ECT.
> 
> My contrast is only at 20 and is still past 1000 nits no matter what you do with it but picture is amazing.
> 
> How is this possible?





Oledurt said:


> I don't know ask harper he is the expert.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





robc1976 said:


> I disagree, so are you. You have contributed a ton and has helped me a lot.
> 
> I thank you for that


I agree, Oledurt knows his stuff and is a great help and asset here! Please don't get discouraged and stop posting!

robc1976, please post all your settings that you are seeing this. Include settings from all of your gear in the chain, including UHD player, etc. Contrast of 20 seems awful low, especially if you're saying you still can't get the clip down to 1000 nits. Do you have contrast boosted in the source player? Maybe a contrast HDR slider?


----------



## panman40

This thread is getting a little bit crazy..


----------



## Mikesp1

robc1976 said:


> how, its a bit darkb to me in high lamp, and I know brightness is set perfect with test patterns. I think maybe its the gamma needing adjustment.



Strange, The Harper Vision settings in medium lamp mode with gamma -2 are as bright has The Harper Vision settings in high lamp mode with Dave's custom gamma curve.

So far I like this setting a lot, same brightness, nice colors but medium lamp mode.

To be honest, if I switch and forth between Dave's setting and mines, I can't see any difference. Except for the redused noise :wink:

Brightness 40
Contrast 100
Saturation 80
Tint 45
Gamma -2
Lamp medium

These are the changes I made to Dave's Harper Vision settings


----------



## Dave Harper

I can't imagine the image has the proper gamma reaction and look using Gamma -2 to be honest. I recall when I was tweaking and creating the custom gamma, as little as a couple clicks up or down made a dramatic difference in that area of the picture. You're talking about changes in the Plus or Minus 10 click ranges!


----------



## KBone

This is sort of a odd question, but do the 5040 and the 8350 have identical mounting holes for screws? Anyone who has owned both able to chime in?

I'm trying to help my parents swap out projectors from afar and if they don't need a new plate for mounting, I can save them some $$$


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I can't imagine the image has the proper gamma reaction and look using Gamma -2 to be honest. I recall when I was tweaking and creating the custom gamma, as little as a couple clicks up or down made a dramatic difference in that area of the picture. You're talking about changes in the Plus or Minus 10 click ranges!


 100% yes, with harper vision 2 clicks in 2-4 points killed all detail.

Dave I will get you those settings here in a few, assasins Creed is a, dark movie and this brought out great detail. I am using oledurt hdr gamma and itb looks great, I think a few tweaks to the gamma will really bring out the picture. Asassins creed has a lot of dust in the movie so I can't tell if its haze or its supposed to be there lol!. I remember you said you saw haze in ghost buster so you lowered point 8 ave and you lowered it to -15. Would your custom gamma work? 

I have a 4K SDR file I may use as a base for the settings, actually it would have to be HDR? I may just keep oledurts cms and greyscale settings, they look good.

Here is a pic ofv the picture, i just paused the scene and have not dialed in focus on the projector very good, its a pain.

Picture is a lot better looking than this dumb phone pic lol


----------



## Dave Harper

Blacks look a little raised and hazed, could be the gamma wrong, brightness or iPhone rendition.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Blacks look a little raised and hazed, could be the gamma wrong, brightness or iPhone rendition.


 I thought so to, think I beed brightness lowered a tad, contrast I can lower to 0 and its still above 1000 nit, I can raise it and bars on pattern get darker....I will see where it clips when I raise it itv washes out image of course.

I think lowering gamma points 1-4 will help. I really think with correct gamma it will look beautiful. Its a bright detailed image already.


----------



## jedi1982

I'm soon to be a proud owner of this projector  Ordered mine from Best Buy today as is on sale (this was previously stated in this thread yesterday) and also comes with $100 gift card. Set to receive it on Fri and am excited! Now to just get the house and home theater built and move in late Oct/early Nov : / ....


----------



## Fosgatt

Found some gamma and calibration suggestions here for SDR/HDR, but is there any recommendation for optimum settings @ 1080p?


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I agree, Oledurt knows his stuff and is a great help and asset here! Please don't get discouraged and stop posting!
> 
> robc1976, please post all your settings that you are seeing this. Include settings from all of your gear in the chain, including UHD player, etc. Contrast of 20 seems awful low, especially if you're saying you still can't get the clip down to 1000 nits. Do you have contrast boosted in the source player? Maybe a contrast HDR slider?


Dave, turns out your right, with contrast at 20 I was close to 4500 nits turned to 100 and I am just above 1000nits @ 75% I am right at 78% on pattern so 1100-1200 nits, I then adjusted brightness and booster saturation to 60 my preference. 

Below are pics and Its by far the best picture I have seen

Settings (Basically oledurts with a tweak or 2)

Bright cinema HDR to SDR 2020

Brightness = 51
Contrast = 100
Color saturation = 60
Tint = 50
Sharpness 5/5/5

Color temp = 4
Skin tone =4
Customize

Offset R = 46
Offset G = 47
Offset B = 49
Gain R = 52
Gain G = 47
Gain B = 34

Advanced:

Gamma: 0, 1, 7, 13, 22, 29, 29, 14, 0

R 53/50/50
G 40/94/27
B 61/49/47
C 59/46/44
M 62/50/50
Y 37/50/48

Epson super white = off
Lens Iris = 0

Power consumption = high
Auto iris = off

Signal:

Hdmi video range = normal
Color space BT. 2020
Dynamic range = SDR
Image processing = fine 

Pics


----------



## Mikesp1

Fosgatt said:


> Found some gamma and calibration suggestions here for SDR/HDR, but is there any recommendation for optimum settings @ 1080p?


for regular bluray sdr709 try these:

Color mode	Cinema
Brightness	44
Contrast	46
Color Saturation	50
Tint	50

Sharpness	
Standard	6
Thin Line Enhancement	8
Thick Line Enhancement	6

Image Enhancement
4K Enhancement	On
Image Preset mode	Preset 4
Noise Reduction	2
MPEG Noise Reduction	1

Super-resolution	
Fine Line Adjust	1
Soft Focus Detail	1

Detail Enhancement
Strength	5
Range	15

Color Temperature	Customized	
R Gain	42
G Gain	47
B Gain	50
R Offset	47
G Offset	47
B Offset	47
Gamma	0
Epson Super White	Off
Lens Iris	-2
Power Consumption	Medium
Auto Iris	Normal
Aspect	Normal
Overscan	Off
HDMI Video Range	Expanded
Color Space	Auto
Dynamic Range	Auto
Image Processing	Fine

Color Management
Red
Hue	50
Saturation	37
Brightness	50
Green
Hue	50
Saturation	39
Brightness	50
Blue
Hue	50
Saturation	68
Brightness	50
Cyan
Hue	52
Saturation	42
Brightness	50
Magenta
Hue	66
Saturation	50
Brightness	50
Yellow	
Hue	55
Saturation	50
Brightness	50


----------



## prme19

5040 ub and Ube on sale for $200 less at Best Buy


----------



## Fosgatt

Thanks Mike - I will give it a try!


----------



## robc1976

Mikesp1 said:


> for regular bluray sdr709 try these:
> 
> Color mode	Cinema
> Brightness	44
> Contrast	46
> Color Saturation	50
> Tint	50
> 
> Sharpness
> Standard	6
> Thin Line Enhancement	8
> Thick Line Enhancement	6
> 
> Image Enhancement
> 4K Enhancement	On
> Image Preset mode	Preset 4
> Noise Reduction	2
> MPEG Noise Reduction	1
> 
> Super-resolution
> Fine Line Adjust	1
> Soft Focus Detail	1
> 
> Detail Enhancement
> Strength	5
> Range	15
> 
> Color Temperature	Customized
> R Gain	42
> G Gain	47
> B Gain	50
> R Offset	47
> G Offset	47
> B Offset	47
> Gamma	0
> Epson Super White	Off
> Lens Iris	-2
> Power Consumption	Medium
> Auto Iris	Normal
> Aspect	Normal
> Overscan	Off
> HDMI Video Range	Expanded
> Color Space	Auto
> Dynamic Range	Auto
> Image Processing	Fine
> 
> Color Management
> Red
> Hue	50
> Saturation	37
> Brightness	50
> Green
> Hue	50
> Saturation	39
> Brightness	50
> Blue
> Hue	50
> Saturation	68
> Brightness	50
> Cyan
> Hue	52
> Saturation	42
> Brightness	50
> Magenta
> Hue	66
> Saturation	50
> Brightness	50
> Yellow
> Hue	55
> Saturation	50
> Brightness


Do you actually see a difference with sharpness settings?


----------



## NewbieinATL

I bought a 5040ub last August and the fan motor has already gone out. Only use the projector for sports/movies and have less than 500 hours on it. Epson is sending out a refurbished unit with a new lamp. Is this standard practice and does anyone know if the fan is becoming an issue for other buyers?


----------



## Woodrow Douglass

*Buzzing*

Hey guys, around page 57, there was some discussion of a buzzing noise when 4k enhancement was enabled.

My 6040ub is about a month old, and 60hz 4k enhanced content definately generates a noticeable buzzing. I'm kinda bummed about it.

at 24hz, the sound is much less noticable.

Is there anything I can do about this? should I call epson? My installer said "some sound is normal" but i'm not sure if i should push the issue?


----------



## ChrisRex

Woodrow Douglass said:


> Hey guys, around page 57, there was some discussion of a buzzing noise when 4k enhancement was enabled.
> 
> My 6040ub is about a month old, and 60hz 4k enhanced content definately generates a noticeable buzzing. I'm kinda bummed about it.
> 
> at 24hz, the sound is much less noticable.
> 
> Is there anything I can do about this? should I call epson? My installer said "some sound is normal" but i'm not sure if i should push the issue?


I share your misery :-(


----------



## n4xxr76

KBone said:


> This is sort of a odd question, but do the 5040 and the 8350 have identical mounting holes for screws? Anyone who has owned both able to chime in?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to help my parents swap out projectors from afar and if they don't need a new plate for mounting, I can save them some $$$




I upgraded from the 8350 and was able to use the same mount. The hole locations and spacing were identical. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## doors.sl

Which glasses 3D are compatible with this projector?
Has anyone tested SONY TDG-BR250 with this device?
Thanks!


----------



## Steven414

A curious question recently came to mind... Bearing in mind that this is not a native 4k projector, as anyone tried watching the same movie on blu-ray vs. 4k on this PJ? If so, could you see a noticeable difference between them? If not, then I'm thinking why purchase a 4k player? I might as well stick with my Oppo 103 and the up-scaled blu-rays.


----------



## seplant

Steven414 said:


> A curious question recently came to mind... Bearing in mind that this is not a native 4k projector, as anyone tried watching the same movie on blu-ray vs. 4k on this PJ? If so, could you see a noticeable difference between them? If not, then I'm thinking why purchase a 4k player? I might as well stick with my Oppo 103 and the up-scaled blu-rays.


There are numerous posts earlier in this thread with photos comparing 4k to standard blu-ray. I did a comparison of my own (before I had my projector calibrated), and from strictly a resolution perspective, I honestly could not tell any difference. I took photos of my own and compared them side by side. This projector does a great job of detail enhancement on standard blu-ray using the 4k enhancement and some of the preset modes. However, UHD content also provides High Dynamic Range, which if dialed in correctly should allow you to see greater shadow detail, and wide color gamut, which allows you to see a wider range of colors, and many UHD discs also have the added benefit of Dolby Atmos audio.


----------



## rupedogg24

NewbieinATL said:


> I bought a 5040ub last August and the fan motor has already gone out. Only use the projector for sports/movies and have less than 500 hours on it. Epson is sending out a refurbished unit with a new lamp. Is this standard practice and does anyone know if the fan is becoming an issue for other buyers?


Have had mine since day 1 with about 1500 hours on it. Zero issues. Cleaned the filter once. Barely any dust. Fan is still uber quiet. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

I'm trying to do the firmware update. I downloaded the update, put it on a thumb drive and put it in the usb port on the 5040. I can't find where to initiate the update on the 5040 menu.


----------



## Lesmor

carp said:


> I'm trying to do the firmware update. I downloaded the update, put it on a thumb drive and put it in the usb port on the 5040. I can't find where to initiate the update on the 5040 menu.


There isn't one in the menu
Follow the firmware update instructions on Epsons website


----------



## carp

Lesmor said:


> There isn't one in the menu
> Follow the firmware update instructions on Epsons website


Ahh thanks I didn't see to click on "usb".


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave Harper said:


> I can't imagine the image has the proper gamma reaction and look using Gamma -2 to be honest. I recall when I was tweaking and creating the custom gamma, as little as a couple clicks up or down made a dramatic difference in that area of the picture. You're talking about changes in the Plus or Minus 10 click ranges!


Agree 100%.
Especially setting the gamma during calibration was one frustrating effort. because the slider do not exactly co-inside the level you are correcting.
I wish Epson had also a way to adjust the gamma from the preset levels Many a times the preset gamma was close enough say to 2.4 and a few clicks would make it perfect. However once you go to custom, it resets the setting and you have start from scratch.


----------



## Steven414

seplant said:


> ... However, UHD content also provides High Dynamic Range, which if dialed in correctly should allow you to see greater shadow detail, and wide color gamut, which allows you to see a wider range of colors, and many UHD discs also have the added benefit of Dolby Atmos audio.


You've brought up a couple of very good points. I do have a 7.4.2 Dolby Atmos audio setup and love any opportunity to put it to use. And the HDR video options are also a nice plus. Those options alone are worth purchasing a 4K player. Thanks for the help!


----------



## robc1976

Are there any BT.709 USB downloads I can use for setting brightness, contrast, skin tone ECT? 

I have the R. Masciola HDR-10 but cant use that.


----------



## kbarnes701

Dave Harper said:


> OK here are the settings, told in menu pictures mostly. I set the menu item to the specific mode it's in instead of AUTO so you can see what it is supposed to be and to make sure it's in that mode specifically to get the proper results. The most important settings are the gamma, contrast and setting it to SDR mode manually instead of HDR. (This is to simulate using a projector/display that isn't HDR capable, like the amazing LS10000, which I want to try this on and will post a similar post there in that thread):


I'm a little late to this party, but after trying your HarperVision settings yesterday I can't pass up on the opportunity to comment. I have been fiddling with settings on my Epson 9300 (as it is called here in the UK) and UB900 for weeks now and never managed to achieve a result that was more satisfactory to my eyes than simple upscaled 1080p Bluray. A gain in one parameter resulted in a loss in another and, overall, nothing I could achieve was all-round superior to upscaled 1080p.

Then I accidentally discovered your post here and, well, wow! I applied the settings last night and then watched _The Revenant_ all the way through. Oh my. I have never seen an image of such outstanding beauty. Most of the time the image was so realistically magnificent that it felt that I was watching live action through a large (my 2.39:1 screen is 11.5 feet/3.5m wide) window. This extra realism in the image caused me to be more involved in the on-screen action and unfolding story than i have ever been when viewing this movie before (I love the movie and have seen it several times). It really did make me feel "like I was there". The beauty of the image resulted in a much deeper emotional connection with the movie, which just goes to show how worthwhile it is to get these things right.

So, Dave, I take my hat off to you. If you lived closer to me I would buy you several beers and shake your hand until it was sore  I had gotten almost to the point of wondering if UHD was something I was even going to bother with - my upscaled 1080p is truly outstanding. But while the latter really can't be faulted, it is this additional emotional connection with the gorgeous image that UHD is clearly capable of which separates the two.

If anyone has still not tried the HarperVision Experience, then I recommend you drop everything and try it right now.

Off now to read the rest off this great thread. And thanks again Dave.

Best regards, Keith.


----------



## Lesmor

kbarnes701 said:


> I'm a little late to this party, but after trying your HarperVision settings yesterday I can't pass up on the opportunity to comment. I have been fiddling with settings on my Epson 9300 (as it is called here in the UK) and UB900 for weeks now and never managed to achieve a result that was more satisfactory to my eyes than simple upscaled 1080p Bluray. A gain in one parameter resulted in a loss in another and, overall, nothing I could achieve was all-round superior to upscaled 1080p.
> 
> Then I accidentally discovered your post here and, well, wow! I applied the settings last night and then watched _The Revenant_ all the way through. Oh my. I have never seen an image of such outstanding beauty. Most of the time the image was so realistically magnificent that it felt that I was watching live action through a large (my 2.39:1 screen is 11.5 feet/3.5m wide) window. This extra realism in the image caused me to be more involved in the on-screen action and unfolding story than i have ever been when viewing this movie before (I love the movie and have seen it several times). It really did make me feel "like I was there". The beauty of the image resulted in a much deeper emotional connection with the movie, which just goes to show how worthwhile it is to get these things right.
> 
> So, Dave, I take my hat off to you. If you lived closer to me I would buy you several beers and shake your hand until it was sore  I had gotten almost to the point of wondering if UHD was something I was even going to bother with - my upscaled 1080p is truly outstanding. But while the latter really can't be faulted, it is this additional emotional connection with the gorgeous image that UHD is clearly capable of which separates the two.
> 
> If anyone has still not tried the HarperVision Experience, then I recommend you drop everything and try it right now.
> 
> Off now to read the rest off this great thread. And thanks again Dave.
> 
> Best regards, Keith.


Hi Keith
Good to see you join the thread
I know how fussy you are with your AV so it is praise indeed

Dave has provided a full list of settings that has allowed many users to finally enjoy their UHD HDR discs

Oledurt has also provided various very good alternatives.

Without these two members I think we would have given up on UHD HDR a long time ago
Cheers
Andy


----------



## kbarnes701

Lesmor said:


> Hi Keith
> Good to see you join the thread


Hi Andy - small world  I only discovered the thread by accident, from a link posted on AVF in a thread I don't usually follow! 



Lesmor said:


> I know how fussy you are with your AV so it is praise indeed.


Yes I am fussy for sure  But the praise is 100% justified and massive kudos to Dave for taking the time and trouble to help so many of us, so freely.



Lesmor said:


> Dave has provided a full list of settings that has allowed many users to finally enjoy their UHD HDR discs
> 
> Oledurt has also provided various very good alternatives.


Yes I have made a note of Oledurt's settings but not yet tried them out. I cant't wait to get into the HT tonight and watch another UHD movie in glorious 'HarperVision'. 



Lesmor said:


> Without these two members I think we would have given up on UHD HDR a long time ago
> Cheers
> Andy


I was almost at that point. Despite all my fiddling about with the UB900 and the Epson I could not get an image that was, overall, more satisfying than good old upscaled 1080p. I was close to throwing in the towel on it. But now I have seen the benefits of the WCG for myself, I can see what all the fuss is about. For me it isn't about resolution as such - I am getting plenty of that with upscaled 1080p. It is all about the benefits to the colour gamut and how this makes the image just so much more lifelike and natural. During _The Revenant_ last night I actually kept on saying, (out loud!) "it's like looking through a window onto a real-life scene". The added realism really makes the emotional involvement so much greater and adds massively to the impact of the movie. Amazing isn't it!


----------



## Lesmor

kbarnes701 said:


> Hi Andy - small world  I only discovered the thread by accident, from a link posted on AVF in a thread I don't usually follow!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I am fussy for sure  But the praise is 100% justified and massive kudos to Dave for taking the time and trouble to help so many of us, so freely.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I have made a note of Oledurt's settings but not yet tried them out. I cant't wait to get into the HT tonight and watch another UHD movie in glorious 'HarperVision'.
> 
> 
> 
> I was almost at that point. Despite all my fiddling about with the UB900 and the Epson I could not get an image that was, overall, more satisfying than good old upscaled 1080p. I was close to throwing in the towel on it. But now I have seen the benefits of the WCG for myself, I can see what all the fuss is about. For me it isn't about resolution as such - I am getting plenty of that with upscaled 1080p. It is all about the benefits to the colour gamut and how this makes the image just so much more lifelike and natural. During _The Revenant_ last night I actually kept on saying, (out loud!) "it's like looking through a window onto a real-life scene". The added realism really makes the emotional involvement so much greater and adds massively to the impact of the movie. Amazing isn't it!


Yes the Epson and in my case the Panasonic UB700 are well matched
With the correct settings they produce stunning PQ
I dont upscale 1080p I just use the native resolution as I find upscaling accentuates any inherent picture grain.

Can I ask 
How are you finding 24p motion handling on the 9300?


----------



## kbarnes701

Lesmor said:


> Yes the Epson and in my case the Panasonic UB700 are well matched
> With the correct settings they produce stunning PQ
> I dont upscale 1080p I just use the native resolution as I find upscaling accentuates any inherent picture grain.


I haven't really noticed that. I don't use any/much sharpening of any sort - maybe that is why I'm not seeing it? I also quite like film grain.



Lesmor said:


> Can I ask
> How are you finding 24p motion handling on the 9300?


I can see why some have singled it out for attention. Again, normal movie motion blur is something I don't object to and have become used to it over a lifetime of watching movies. Some people seem more sensitive to it than I am. But the 9300 doesn't seem to acquit itself terribly well in this regard. And it's made worse by the fact that if I want to upscale and use 4K Enhancement (which I do) then FI is locked out. On my old 9200 I used FI on its lowest setting and found it helped smooth the motion blur a little but without totally destroying the cinematic image. The higher settings were too smoothed for my taste. If I was able to, I'd use the lowest setting of FI on the 9300 but for me it's a good trade-off of superior res from the upscaled image vs motion blur on pans. I favour the former over the latter - obviously others may have the opposite preference. Overall, I am so happy with all that this PJ does well that I am able to forgive it some small (to me) faults. It's a bit like women in that regard


----------



## kbarnes701

^^^^^

Good call on the UB700. I bought the first UB900 available last year and the UB700 wasn't on the market then of course. If it had been I'd have chosen it over the UB900 as I don't make any use of the analog outputs etc of the UB900. So for me the UB700 would have been the better buy.


----------



## kbarnes701

Dave Harper said:


> It shouldn't do that and I've tested it using Chrome browsers and I think IE and Firefox. I think I recall someone else saying that it depends on which device you're using and clicking from. Which are you trying it on? Try from a laptop or PC.


Links to posts only work correctly if the default 30 posts per page is used. Anything else and the links don't go to the right post.


----------



## presenter

Greetings!

As usual, I don't find much time to peruse AVS, and when I do, well, I'm the guy that gets to play with 15-20 different HT projectors a year, so I bounce around a lot.

But, I have some good news. I see from catching up on the past few pages, that there are a lot of different settings out there, people are trying, and there's plenty of frustration, with HDR... and some satisfaction - with the 5040UB and 6040UB.

I am pleased to report (despite the obvious lack having 1000 NITS available), that yesterday, my calibrator - Eric (who replaced Mike about a year ago), after learning much about HDR lately, took another stab at calibrating the 5040UB hanging in my theater, specifically for 4K HDR BT.2020.

For the first time, I am most pleased with the results. 

As always, we publish our calibration settings in our reviews, and as always we charge for the 2nd "advanced" page. (sorry about that, but that and banner clicks is what puts food on my table, and 4K UHD discs in my player.)

I'm slammed, but should have the new data in the calibration pages - early next week.

There are at least a decent number of folks on this thread that are subscribers on our site, so hopefully:

One or two of you, who are already subscribers, will try out these new settings. If they knock your socks off - as they did me - I mean a major improvement from previous attempts, let others know. Of course I request that no one post our settings (and there are a lot of them). BTW I also tried those custom gamma settings found on the previous pages - didn't work for me. Took most of the "HDR" out of the HDR, plus some other issues.

The 5040UB, btw came out with far less dimness than previously, which I've been complaining about on most of the HDR projectors. Oh, overall, it's got a darkish look (think of a gamma film 2.4 gamma, rather than 2.2), but even at 124" diagonal on my 1.3 gain Stewart Studiotek 130, it worked pretty great in a fully darkened room. 

But the image pops, like crazy - it looks rich and dynamic. The darkest shadow detail is there, but, I admit, the nearest blacks are barely visible, but they are there. 

BTW this is our third major attempt on the 6040UB/5040UB in the past year. (not to mention calibrating the LS10500, and also the $25K Sony VZ1000ES, and top of the line VW5000ES for 4K HDR..) Those last three did pretty good, previously, and all completely blew away the best I could come up with with the UB. 
Not any more. Each of those has real advantages compared to the UB, but now I can say that like in older days with older UBs - I'm really impressed with how well the 5040UB is doing compared to far, far, more expensive projectors.

BTW for the past month+ I've switched to the Sony UBP-X1000ES Blu-ray UHD player. (Like the top Oppo, it has fancy audio, but it lacks many of the controls/adjustments the Oppo provides. I do like the Sony better than the Philips (definitely) and the Samsung (hugely). All my viewing of the 5040UB with the new settings has been with the Sony, as it will be my goto player, unless I also manage to get an Oppo.

I hope I'm right, and you folks agree, in which case, many of us will be happier soon. BTW I watched virtually all of Passengers, and Ghostbusters 2016, as well as bits from the latest Kong, and a chunk of The Martian (late last night on that one, fell asleep).

The 5040UB review itself will get other updating besides the Calibration pages, to describe the improvement, or rather to describe how the projector is looking now, after our latest attempt. -art

PS, we'll be tackling doing a comparison of 4K capable projectors as part of our upcoming annual Best Home Theater Projectors report. Might be fun.


----------



## mrbeezly

What do you guys think of getting a spreadsheet together of some of the preferred settings? Then people could try a few and see what works for them.


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

mrbeezly said:


> What do you guys think of getting a spreadsheet together of some of the preferred settings? Then people could try a few and see what works for them.


Yes please, on google docs or equivalent.


----------



## ht guy

kbarnes701 said:


> I'm a little late to this party, but after trying your HarperVision settings yesterday I can't pass up on the opportunity to comment. I have been fiddling with settings on my Epson 9300 (as it is called here in the UK) and UB900 for weeks now and never managed to achieve a result that was more satisfactory to my eyes than simple upscaled 1080p Bluray. A gain in one parameter resulted in a loss in another and, overall, nothing I could achieve was all-round superior to upscaled 1080p.
> 
> Then I accidentally discovered your post here and, well, wow! I applied the settings last night and then watched _The Revenant_ all the way through. Oh my. I have never seen an image of such outstanding beauty. Most of the time the image was so realistically magnificent that it felt that I was watching live action through a large (my 2.39:1 screen is 11.5 feet/3.5m wide) window. This extra realism in the image caused me to be more involved in the on-screen action and unfolding story than i have ever been when viewing this movie before (I love the movie and have seen it several times). It really did make me feel "like I was there". The beauty of the image resulted in a much deeper emotional connection with the movie, which just goes to show how worthwhile it is to get these things right.
> 
> So, Dave, I take my hat off to you. If you lived closer to me I would buy you several beers and shake your hand until it was sore  I had gotten almost to the point of wondering if UHD was something I was even going to bother with - my upscaled 1080p is truly outstanding. But while the latter really can't be faulted, it is this additional emotional connection with the gorgeous image that UHD is clearly capable of which separates the two.
> 
> If anyone has still not tried the HarperVision Experience, then I recommend you drop everything and try it right now.
> 
> Off now to read the rest off this great thread. And thanks again Dave.
> 
> Best regards, Keith.


...and I can see how Revenant being shot 100% in natural light really could give you a "through the window experience!"


----------



## kbarnes701

ht guy said:


> ...and I can see how Revenant being shot 100% in natural light really could give you a "through the window experience!"


Good point. It was amazingly realistic. I didn't get the same feeling on most of _Independence Day: Resurgence_ which I watched last night, but this isn't surprising I guess since most of the movie was CGI. (Poor movie too IMO, and I enjoyed the first one so I don't have a downer on them in general). For now anyway, I am more than happy with the HarperVision settings here. I am having my PJ professionally calibrated in early August and will see what difference that makes to my impressions, if any.


----------



## ht guy

presenter said:


> Greetings!
> 
> ...As always, we publish our calibration settings in our reviews, and as always we charge for the 2nd "advanced" page. (sorry about that, but that and banner clicks is what puts food on my table, and 4K UHD discs in my player.)
> 
> I'm slammed, but should have the new data in the calibration pages - early next week....
> 
> ...The 5040UB review itself will get other updating besides the Calibration pages, to describe the improvement, or rather to describe how the projector is looking now, after our latest attempt. -art...


...assume you are talking about updating the 4/16 review? Once updated, please provide a link! Thanks!


----------



## Lesmor

presenter said:


> Greetings!
> 
> As usual, I don't find much time to peruse AVS, and when I do, well, I'm the guy that gets to play with 15-20 different HT projectors a year, so I bounce around a lot.
> 
> But, I have some good news. I see from catching up on the past few pages, that there are a lot of different settings out there, people are trying, and there's plenty of frustration, with HDR... and some satisfaction - with the 5040UB and 6040UB.
> 
> I am pleased to report (despite the obvious lack having 1000 NITS available), that yesterday, my calibrator - Eric (who replaced Mike about a year ago), after learning much about HDR lately, took another stab at calibrating the 5040UB hanging in my theater, specifically for 4K HDR BT.2020.
> 
> For the first time, I am most pleased with the results.
> 
> As always, we publish our calibration settings in our reviews, and as always we charge for the 2nd "advanced" page. (sorry about that, but that and banner clicks is what puts food on my table, and 4K UHD discs in my player.)
> 
> I'm slammed, but should have the new data in the calibration pages - early next week.
> 
> There are at least a decent number of folks on this thread that are subscribers on our site, so hopefully:
> 
> One or two of you, who are already subscribers, will try out these new settings. If they knock your socks off - as they did me - I mean a major improvement from previous attempts, let others know. Of course I request that no one post our settings (and there are a lot of them). BTW I also tried those custom gamma settings found on the previous pages - didn't work for me. Took most of the "HDR" out of the HDR, plus some other issues.
> 
> The 5040UB, btw came out with far less dimness than previously, which I've been complaining about on most of the HDR projectors. Oh, overall, it's got a darkish look (think of a gamma film 2.4 gamma, rather than 2.2), but even at 124" diagonal on my 1.3 gain Stewart Studiotek 130, it worked pretty great in a fully darkened room.
> 
> But the image pops, like crazy - it looks rich and dynamic. The darkest shadow detail is there, but, I admit, the nearest blacks are barely visible, but they are there.
> 
> BTW this is our third major attempt on the 6040UB/5040UB in the past year. (not to mention calibrating the LS10500, and also the $25K Sony VZ1000ES, and top of the line VW5000ES for 4K HDR..) Those last three did pretty good, previously, and all completely blew away the best I could come up with with the UB.
> Not any more. Each of those has real advantages compared to the UB, but now I can say that like in older days with older UBs - I'm really impressed with how well the 5040UB is doing compared to far, far, more expensive projectors.
> 
> BTW for the past month+ I've switched to the Sony UBP-X1000ES Blu-ray UHD player. (Like the top Oppo, it has fancy audio, but it lacks many of the controls/adjustments the Oppo provides. I do like the Sony better than the Philips (definitely) and the Samsung (hugely). All my viewing of the 5040UB with the new settings has been with the Sony, as it will be my goto player, unless I also manage to get an Oppo.
> 
> I hope I'm right, and you folks agree, in which case, many of us will be happier soon. BTW I watched virtually all of Passengers, and Ghostbusters 2016, as well as bits from the latest Kong, and a chunk of The Martian (late last night on that one, fell asleep).
> 
> The 5040UB review itself will get other updating besides the Calibration pages, to describe the improvement, or rather to describe how the projector is looking now, after our latest attempt. -art
> 
> PS, we'll be tackling doing a comparison of 4K capable projectors as part of our upcoming annual Best Home Theater Projectors report. Might be fun.


Looking forward to your new settings

While I enjoyed the original review I found reading it confusing at times because for 4K UHD it quite often mentions Brilliant Cinema which isn't an option on my 9300 (6040)

You confuse that by then also referring to Bright Cinema which is an option but does not use the DCI-P3 filter

Then Eric calibrated one setting in Cinema, and one in Brilliant *Colour*?

AFAIK the only modes that use the P3 filter are Cinema and Digital Cinema

For D65 Rec.709 most other reviewers used the "Natural" setting as being the closest for their calibration 

Confusion aside I look forward to the update.


----------



## ht guy

*Your lucky day...*

Ok, i just spent too much time summarizing the settings I've picked up in this thread.

I've attempted to get everything as posted, and to give credit where credit is due.

Feel free to let me know what needs to be corrected.

Enjoy!

5040/6040 Settings Summary from AVS


----------



## aaranddeeman

ht guy said:


> Ok, i just spent too much time summarizing the settings I've picked up in this thread.
> 
> I've attempted to get everything as posted, and to give credit where credit is due.
> 
> Feel free to let me know what needs to be corrected.
> 
> If anyone wants to take a shot at making it more readable, or in a better format, have at it.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 5040/6040 Settings Summary from AVS


Fantastic work.
Just a small correction. My settings are actually SDR (mode:Cinema) and not HDR.


----------



## ht guy

aaranddeeman said:


> Fantastic work.
> Just a small correction. My settings are actually SDR (mode:Cinema) and not HDR.


Thanks! Corrections made.


----------



## Lesmor

ht guy said:


> Ok, i just spent too much time summarizing the settings I've picked up in this thread.
> 
> I've attempted to get everything as posted, and to give credit where credit is due.
> 
> Feel free to let me know what needs to be corrected.
> 
> If anyone wants to take a shot at making it more readable, or in a better format, have at it.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 5040/6040 Settings Summary from AVS


Good job in collating the various suggested settings its appreciated


----------



## jwhn

aaranddeeman said:


> Fantastic work.
> Just a small correction. My settings are actually SDR (mode:Cinema) and not HDR.


I saw your interactions with Dominic Chan in the HCFR forum. I actually found it very helpful to read through your detailed posts with him as I am going down the same path as you to calibrate the 5040. 

Any general learnings you can share from going through that process? 

I noticed you used Cinema model - I found that Natural mode seem to provide the best starting point for calibration. What led you to Cinema mode?

Have you attempted an HDR calibration?


----------



## FrankTR

*Distance from ceiling*

Room is still under construction however the ceiling is 10' and the projector (Edson 5040 purchased about 5 years ago) will be about 17 feet from the screen. Can i mount directly to the ceiling or do I need to drop it down?


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

ht guy said:


> Ok, i just spent too much time summarizing the settings I've picked up in this thread.
> 
> I've attempted to get everything as posted, and to give credit where credit is due.
> 
> Feel free to let me know what needs to be corrected.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 5040/6040 Settings Summary from AVS


So in use, one would/ could program the various HDR and SDR settings and save into memories and then compare for personal preference?


----------



## xAzooz

*hello 
can i run 24p via 60fps laptop without judder ? 
thank ^^

*


----------



## benivel

Hello, 

I've been lurking this forum since I originally purchased my 5040UB about 7 months - and reading your comments has been invaluable! Thank you so much! 
I have been contemplating buying a standalone 4K UHD player to replace the Xbox One to watch 4k UHD discs - I don't game much, but it was the most affordable player when I bought it. Are there features not available in the Xbox One that I'm currently missing? 

Cheers!


----------



## welldun

ht guy said:


> Ok, i just spent too much time summarizing the settings I've picked up in this thread.
> 
> I've attempted to get everything as posted, and to give credit where credit is due.
> 
> Feel free to let me know what needs to be corrected.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 5040/6040 Settings Summary from AVS


First off, thanks a bunch for the summary. Much appreciated. 
Secondly any chance that this could be made into a "sticky" so that it doesn't get lost once the thread continues to grow? It would be great if it could be at the beginning of the thread so that new comers can see the latest settings provided by the group members. 
Third thing is directed at anyone who has the ability to edit the opening post in this thread... Could you please update some of the info in that post, specifically the "know issues" part which has outdate info .
Thank you all for your contribution to this thread.


----------



## welldun

Any chance that the members who's calibration settings are listed in this thread could also add a quick description of the viewing environment that led to the settings? For instance, calibrating in a completely dark room vs one with some ambient lighting. Also, it would be good to know if the source (Blu-ray or 4k player) had any setting adjustments made that could change the results. I know that my Sony Blu-ray player has settings for brightness which would affect the picture, so it would be good to know if those settings should be left at factory settings or if they should be changed as part of the overall calibration. 
Once again, thank you all for your contribution to the thread.


----------



## carp

welldun said:


> Any chance that the members who's calibration settings are listed in this thread could also add a quick description of the viewing environment that led to the settings? For instance, calibrating in a completely dark room vs one with some ambient lighting. Also, it would be good to know if the source (Blu-ray or 4k player) had any setting adjustments made that could change the results. I know that my Sony Blu-ray player has settings for brightness which would affect the picture, so it would be good to know if those settings should be left at factory settings or if they should be changed as part of the overall calibration.
> Once again, thank you all for your contribution to the thread.


I was just thinking that.


----------



## Oledurt

welldun said:


> Any chance that the members who's calibration settings are listed in this thread could also add a quick description of the viewing environment that led to the settings? For instance, calibrating in a completely dark room vs one with some ambient lighting. Also, it would be good to know if the source (Blu-ray or 4k player) had any setting adjustments made that could change the results. I know that my Sony Blu-ray player has settings for brightness which would affect the picture, so it would be good to know if those settings should be left at factory settings or if they should be changed as part of the overall calibration.
> Once again, thank you all for your contribution to the thread.




My settings are in a dedicated, and light controlled room. 125 inch screen 1.1 gain. Epson is about 15 ft back from screen.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

Lesmor said:


> Looking forward to your new settings
> 
> 
> 
> While I enjoyed the original review I found reading it confusing at times because for 4K UHD it quite often mentions Brilliant Cinema which isn't an option on my 9300 (6040)
> 
> 
> 
> You confuse that by then also referring to Bright Cinema which is an option but does not use the DCI-P3 filter
> 
> 
> 
> Then Eric calibrated one setting in Cinema, and one in Brilliant *Colour*?
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK the only modes that use the P3 filter are Cinema and Digital Cinema
> 
> 
> 
> For D65 Rec.709 most other reviewers used the "Natural" setting as being the closest for their calibration
> 
> 
> 
> Confusion aside I look forward to the update.




Ya I am interested in what they came up with...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

kbarnes701 said:


> Links to posts only work correctly if the default 30 posts per page is used. Anything else and the links don't go to the right post.



Awesome thanks for the tip!



kbarnes701 said:


> I'm a little late to this party, but after trying your HarperVision settings yesterday I can't pass up on the opportunity to comment. I have been fiddling with settings on my Epson 9300 (as it is called here in the UK) and UB900 for weeks now and never managed to achieve a result that was more satisfactory to my eyes than simple upscaled 1080p Bluray. A gain in one parameter resulted in a loss in another and, overall, nothing I could achieve was all-round superior to upscaled 1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I accidentally discovered your post here and, well, wow! I applied the settings last night and then watched _The Revenant_ all the way through. Oh my. I have never seen an image of such outstanding beauty. Most of the time the image was so realistically magnificent that it felt that I was watching live action through a large (my 2.39:1 screen is 11.5 feet/3.5m wide) window. This extra realism in the image caused me to be more involved in the on-screen action and unfolding story than i have ever been when viewing this movie before (I love the movie and have seen it several times). It really did make me feel "like I was there". The beauty of the image resulted in a much deeper emotional connection with the movie, which just goes to show how worthwhile it is to get these things right.
> 
> 
> 
> So, Dave, I take my hat off to you. If you lived closer to me I would buy you several beers and shake your hand until it was sore  I had gotten almost to the point of wondering if UHD was something I was even going to bother with - my upscaled 1080p is truly outstanding. But while the latter really can't be faulted, it is this additional emotional connection with the gorgeous image that UHD is clearly capable of which separates the two.
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has still not tried the HarperVision Experience, then I recommend you drop everything and try it right now.
> 
> 
> 
> Off now to read the rest off this great thread. And thanks again Dave.
> 
> 
> 
> Best regards, Keith.



Thank you for the kind words!  

Please also make sure to check out Oledurt's great settings too. Some like his and some like mine. It's a personal preference. His sound more "by the book and numbers" accurate while mine have a more artsy style to them. 




ht guy said:


> Ok, i just spent too much time summarizing the settings I've picked up in this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> I've attempted to get everything as posted, and to give credit where credit is due.
> 
> Feel free to let me know what needs to be corrected.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 5040/6040 Settings Summary from AVS


My Bright Cinema settings use HDR not SDR. I also think I have much improved updated settings for the Digital Cinema HarperVision settings that I did on it as a final calibration before sale. I thought I posted them here but it is starting to seem like maybe I didn't. I'll check my files.


----------



## ht guy

Dave Harper said:


> Awesome thanks for the tip!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the kind words!
> 
> Please also make sure to check out Oledurt's great settings too. Some like his and some like mine. It's a personal preference. His sound more "by the book and numbers" accurate while mine have a more artsy style to them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Bright Cinema settings use HDR not SDR. I also think I have much improved updated settings for the Digital Cinema HarperVision settings that I did on it as a final calibration before sale. I thought I posted them here but it is starting to seem like maybe I didn't. I'll check my files.


Thanks Dave!

Fixed.


----------



## welldun

ht guy said:


> Ok, i just spent too much time summarizing the settings I've picked up in this thread.
> 
> I've attempted to get everything as posted, and to give credit where credit is due.
> 
> Feel free to let me know what needs to be corrected.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 5040/6040 Settings Summary from AVS


Quick note the Dave Harper gamma settings on your chart only show 8 settings seems like one is missing.


----------



## ht guy

welldun said:


> Quick note the Dave Harper gamma settings on your chart only show 8 settings seems like one is missing.


Thanks. Fixed.


----------



## shiv81

Hi, I'm getting ready to buy this projector but had a few questions. I was trying to sift through the thread but it got a little out of hand. If I am getting the wired version, is there anyway to get an Xbox One S to output HDR through the Epson (using a linker or anything else)? Or is the only way to just buy the UBE? Also, if I buy the wired version, can the wireless transmitter be bought later on? Thanks


----------



## aaranddeeman

jwhn said:


> I saw your interactions with Dominic Chan in the HCFR forum. I actually found it very helpful to read through your detailed posts with him as I am going down the same path as you to calibrate the 5040.
> 
> Any general learnings you can share from going through that process?
> 
> I noticed you used Cinema model - I found that Natural mode seem to provide the best starting point for calibration. What led you to Cinema mode?
> 
> Have you attempted an HDR calibration?


After those last attempts I fin ally got to watching than calibrating.. 
Initially I was using patterns from disk, but then learnt there is no significant difference in the auto generated ones that HCFR provides. That makes calibration but quicker and less cumbersome.
However do check the difference using two separate readings. On with disk patterns and one with generator.
I would say one thing, never try setting gamma controls if you are tired from few rounds of calibration for the color temperature. You will get frustrated very fast out there, so you need lot of energy to beat that. 
Follow Dominic's guidelines. They work pretty good.
I did start with Natural, but then switched to Cinema and Digital Cinema for the P3. Because HCFR provides the DCI-P3 reference.

Due to lack of patterns, I could not do HDR yet. Philips BDP 7501 does not play the R.Masciola's patterns. 
In the meantime HarperVision and Oledurt published their settings and I am mostly using Oledurt gamma on top my HCFR calibrated Bright Cinema mode.


----------



## dimi123

ht guy said:


> Feel free to let me know what needs to be corrected.
> 5040/6040 Settings Summary from AVS


Thanks for this!
Small correction. My HDR settings are for Digital Cinema mode, not Bright Cinema.


----------



## puccainbkk

Does anyone know or try HDMI 2 in put Does it accept any 4K source from internet TV like Netfilx 4k ?

coz HDMI 1 I will connect directly with oppo 203 and then HDMI2 I will pass sources from PrePro 7703 

thank you 
Tanakon Lee From Thailand.


----------



## panman40

puccainbkk said:


> Does anyone know or try HDMI 2 in put Does it accept any 4K source from internet TV like Netfilx 4k ?
> 
> coz HDMI 1 I will connect directly with oppo 203 and then HDMI2 I will pass sources from PrePro 7703
> 
> thank you
> Tanakon Lee From Thailand.


No just hdmi1 as far as I'm aware.


----------



## dimi123

puccainbkk said:


> Does anyone know or try HDMI 2 in put Does it accept any 4K source from internet TV like Netfilx 4k ?
> 
> coz HDMI 1 I will connect directly with oppo 203 and then HDMI2 I will pass sources from PrePro 7703
> 
> thank you
> Tanakon Lee From Thailand.


I have my HTPC (4K60Hz, 8bit, 4:2:0) connected (through SR7009) to the HDMI2 input of the Epson and have no issues. Not sure about Netflix 4K.


----------



## ht guy

ht guy said:


> Ok, i just spent too much time summarizing the settings I've picked up in this thread.
> 
> I've attempted to get everything as posted, and to give credit where credit is due.
> 
> Feel free to let me know what needs to be corrected.
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 5040/6040 Settings Summary from AVS





dimi123 said:


> Thanks for this!
> Small correction. My HDR settings are for Digital Cinema mode, not Bright Cinema.


Thanks! Fixed.


----------



## kbarnes701

Dave Harper said:


> Awesome thanks for the tip!


You're welcome. There may be other ways of FUBARing an AVS link of course, but the non-standard number of post per page is pretty much guaranteed to do it.




Dave Harper said:


> Thank you for the kind words!


No Dave - thank YOU for all your hard work and the time you've put in to helping the readers of this thread. 



Dave Harper said:


> Please also make sure to check out Oledurt's great settings too. Some like his and some like mine. It's a personal preference. His sound more "by the book and numbers" accurate while mine have a more artsy style to them.


I have them written down but not yet tried them. I will do it as soon as I get a round tuit though 




Dave Harper said:


> My Bright Cinema settings use HDR not SDR. I also think I have *much improved updated settings for the Digital Cinema HarperVision* settings that I did on it as a final calibration before sale. I thought I posted them here but it is starting to seem like maybe I didn't. I'll check my files.


Please!


----------



## Mikesp1

Dave Harper said:


> I can't imagine the image has the proper gamma reaction and look using Gamma -2 to be honest. I recall when I was tweaking and creating the custom gamma, as little as a couple clicks up or down made a dramatic difference in that area of the picture. You're talking about changes in the Plus or Minus 10 click ranges!


Dave I love your HDR to SDR approach. No matter what HDR settings I try, the picture is never as nice as with your Harper Vision settings. Unfortunately High lamp mode is too noisy for me. So most of the time I am using your settings in Medium lamp mode.

I am aware that simply using -2 on the gamma slider is not giving the correct response, though it is pleasing to my eyes.

Now, if someone could tell me how to set correct gamma for your settings in medium lamp mode I would be very exated to try it out.

In order to achieve this, do I need special equipment or can this be done by eye and patterns? Thanks!


----------



## jason_galaxy

Hi, using the wireless transmitter on the 5040ube I can get 60fps HDR from youtube on a Sony ubp-X800, however, the "connecting to wireless" delay when changing formats is a little slow and I have seen occasional
loss of sync (to the Sony not the projector).

So I picked up a 50ft HDMI which works great expect when I play the same 60fps HDR videos the
projector shows SDR. 24fps netflix and 4k Bluray plays HDR no problem. 

Is this expected?


----------



## dizzyscure

jason_galaxy said:


> Hi, using the wireless transmitter on the 5040ube I can get 60fps HDR from youtube on a Sony ubp-X800, however, the "connecting to wireless" delay when changing formats is a little slow and I have seen occasional
> loss of sync (to the Sony not the projector).
> 
> So I picked up a 50ft HDMI which works great expect when I play the same 60fps HDR videos the
> projector shows SDR. 24fps netflix and 4k Bluray plays HDR no problem.
> 
> Is this expected?


What cable are u using?


----------



## jason_galaxy

dizzyscure said:


> What cable are u using?


BlueRigger In-Wall High Speed HDMI Cable - 50 Feet (15 M)

Good reviews

Supports Latest HDMI 2.0b Standard - 4K, UHD, 3D, Audio Return Channel (ARC), Category 2 Certified,18 Gbps / 600 MHz Refresh Rate, 2160p, 1080p, 48 Bit Deep Color, Ethernet and is backwards compatible with earlier versions


----------



## Natrix1973

jason_galaxy said:


> Hi, using the wireless transmitter on the 5040ube I can get 60fps HDR from youtube on a Sony ubp-X800, however, the "connecting to wireless" delay when changing formats is a little slow and I have seen occasional
> loss of sync (to the Sony not the projector).
> 
> So I picked up a 50ft HDMI which works great expect when I play the same 60fps HDR videos the
> projector shows SDR. 24fps netflix and 4k Bluray plays HDR no problem.
> 
> Is this expected?


4k60 with HDR exceeds the bandwidth of this projector so it won't work. It is not your cable. There is a chart in the first post with the signal and bandwidth limitations.


----------



## jason_galaxy

Natrix1973 said:


> 4k60 with HDR exceeds the bandwidth of this projector so it won't work. It is not your cable. There is a chart in the first post with the signal and bandwidth limitations.


OK, but is it a limitation of the projector or the wired input? Because when using the wireless
connection I do get HDR at 60fps


----------



## rsimsic

*Help with 6040UB and Yamaha RX-v475 with Time Warner Cable*

I cannot get surround sound to work with my setup; brand new projector... Configuration is cable out of wall to STB, STB connected to XBox, XBox connected to HDMI1 on RX-v475 and HDMI out connected to EPSON. I get sound, but not surround sound. I tried the optical audio out of the STB into AV4 on the receiver and I then get surround sound but no picture... Is there an easy way to resolve?


----------



## welldun

ht guy said:


> welldun said:
> 
> 
> 
> Quick note the Dave Harper gamma settings on your chart only show 8 settings seems like one is missing.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Fixed.
Click to expand...

 Thank you
For all of you who want to see a nice short movie presented in HDR, just go to Netflix and type in HDR and look for "Cosmos Laundromat" I have yet to see something with as much pop in the color. If you calibrated your projector nicely this will definitely serve as a nice piece to show it off.


----------



## aaranddeeman

rsimsic said:


> I cannot get surround sound to work with my setup; brand new projector... Configuration is cable out of wall to STB, STB connected to XBox, XBox connected to HDMI1 on RX-v475 and HDMI out connected to EPSON. I get sound, but not surround sound. I tried the optical audio out of the STB into AV4 on the receiver and I then get surround sound but no picture... Is there an easy way to resolve?


This has nothing to do with Epson.
What is this STB?
Why there are so many interconnects.
Why not directly (w/o knowing what this STB is )
STB->AVR 
XBOX->AVR

And then AVR->Epson


----------



## rsimsic

aaranddeeman said:


> This has nothing to do with Epson.
> What is this STB?
> Why there are so many interconnects.
> Why not directly (w/o knowing what this STB is )
> STB->AVR
> XBOX->AVR
> 
> And then AVR->Epson


STB = Set Top Box (Cable Box)

I'll try it without the Xbox in the loop and see what happens. I set it up that way to be able to use the Xbox to watch cable, but I don't really need to do that.

Thanks!


----------



## jason_galaxy

jason_galaxy said:


> OK, but is it a limitation of the projector or the wired input? Because when using the wireless
> connection I do get HDR at 60fps


OK it looks like the sony ubp-x800 will always put out 60fps for youtube regardless of the
original content. With wireless it can handle it, but looses sync quite often,
but with the wired connection it drops back to SDR. 

Netlix from the sony will correctly output 12 bit 4:2:2 24fps which the 
Epson will display in HDR with either the wired or wireless


----------



## Dave Harper

ht guy said:


> Thanks Dave!
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed.


OK. I think I noticed that you showed my DC settings as using Eco mode, but they don't. They use High. 




Mikesp1 said:


> Dave I love your HDR to SDR approach. No matter what HDR settings I try, the picture is never as nice as with your Harper Vision settings. Unfortunately High lamp mode is too noisy for me. So most of the time I am using your settings in Medium lamp mode.
> 
> 
> 
> I am aware that simply using -2 on the gamma slider is not giving the correct response, though it is pleasing to my eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, if someone could tell me how to set correct gamma for your settings in medium lamp mode I would be very exated to try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> In order to achieve this, do I need special equipment or can this be done by eye and patterns? Thanks!



Custom gamma deals with how the electrical/electronic data of the video translates to the actual video level of that particular gamma point presented. The lamp brightness modes are just overall picture level brightness on screen (not specific points in the video signal), so if you drop to medium and eco it doesn't really affect the gamma settings the whole image just gets dimmer or brighter (ft lamberts). 

All that you should really need to do is reset the basic brightness, contrast, etc. type settings but I doubt they'll be too much different. Use R. Masciola's patterns or Sony discs for that.


----------



## puccainbkk

dimi123 said:


> I have my HTPC (4K60Hz, 8bit, 4:2:0) connected (through SR7009) to the HDMI2 input of the Epson and have no issues. Not sure about Netflix 4K.


Thank you .. Also Panman40

I tried it last night.. I worked fine.. Now I use media box Zappitti Mini connect to 7703 and pass to 8300(9300 5040)input HDMI 2 
I use the 8 m. long HDMI old cable I am very happy with it now.. 
Thank yo so much..


----------



## robc1976

kbarnes701 said:


> You're welcome. There may be other ways of FUBARing an AVS link of course, but the non-standard number of post per page is pretty much guaranteed to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Dave - thank YOU for all your hard work and the time you've put in to helping the readers of this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> I have them written down but not yet tried them. I will do it as soon as I get a round tuit though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please!


 Please X2


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> OK. I think I noticed that you showed my DC settings as using Eco mode, but they don't. They use High.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom gamma deals with how the electrical/electronic data of the video translates to the actual video level of that particular gamma point presented. The lamp brightness modes are just overall picture level brightness on screen (not specific points in the video signal), so if you drop to medium and eco it doesn't really affect the gamma settings the whole image just gets dimmer or brighter (ft lamberts).
> 
> All that you should really need to do is reset the basic brightness, contrast, etc. type settings but I doubt they'll be too much different. Use R. Masciola's patterns or Sony discs for that.


 I do not think anything in bright cinema will compare to harper vision, the P3 is just too awesome with colors. Bright cinema kills detail and washes out color. I compared HV to my settings and I realized just how good they are. The pics I have blew me away. I had my calibrator do a calibration in 4K SDR 2020 then put HV settings over the top. Is that okay dave? Also do you know of a USB test pattern brightness/contrast for 709?

Pics


----------



## robc1976

2-weeks ago had projector not turn back on. I was watching a movie with friends and projector shut off and will not turn back on. Lens cover is still open. Guessing I need new unit?. Epson can also pay for my calibrations then. This will be my second projector.

My one buddy said "what do you expect, its a epson". Have to agree, you can look look thru this thread and see countless failed units.

Thinking of switching, these 5040's are just not dependable.


----------



## Mikesp1

robc1976 said:


> I do not think anything in bright cinema will compare to harper vision, the P3 is just too awesome with colors. Bright cinema kills detail and washes out color. I compared HV to my settings and I realized just how good they are. The pics I have blew me away. I had my calibrator do a calibration in 4K SDR 2020 then put HV settings over the top. Is that okay dave? Also do you know of a USB test pattern brightness/contrast for 709?
> 
> Pics


I think we must face the fact that the 5040 is simply not that great with HDR.
Dave's workaround however brings the very best out of this projector. Thanks Dave!

For the money we have a great 1080P projector that upscales 1080P content very decently. On top of that this projector gives us the opportunity to watch 4K UHD disks, thanks to Dave with stunning results. I believe that at this price point this is still unseen. I gave up on native HDR with this pj, we need a pj with a lot more lumens 2 to 3 times more. At this time this is not affordable. After sticking with the Harper Vision settings for HDR to SDR conversion I am very happy with this pj.

I also tried to do the HDR to SDR conversion via the Oppo 203 and its strip metadata function but it seems the Oppo is not that great at converting HDR.

I saw PJ's costing 3 and 4 times more than the 5040 that were not that great either wit HDR.


----------



## Lesmor

Mikesp1 said:


> I think we must face the fact that the 5040 is simply not that great with HDR.
> Dave's workaround however brings the very best out of this projector. Thanks Dave!
> 
> For the money we have a great 1080P projector that upscales 1080P content very decently. On top of that this projector gives us the opportunity to watch 4K UHD disks, thanks to Dave with stunning results. I believe that at this price point this is still unseen. I gave up on native HDR with this pj, we need a pj with a lot more lumens 2 to 3 times more. At this time this is not affordable. After sticking with the Harper Vision settings for HDR to SDR conversion I am very happy with this pj.
> 
> I also tried to do the HDR to SDR conversion via the Oppo 203 and its strip metadata function but it seems the Oppo is not that great at converting HDR.
> 
> I saw PJ's costing 3 and 4 times more than the 5040 that were not that great either wit HDR.


While I agree in principle I lay the blame squarely on Epson

Epson market these projector as HDR capable but fail to back the claim up by providing a HDR mode or any guidance whatsoever based on their HDR engineering model

So we are all left to try and find or cobble together a setting that we can use.
IMO it's not really good enough just to throw in the towel and then support the company going forward by considering buying the next version in the hope that it is better.

Social media is a powerful consumer tool.
Epson have a presence on Facebook and Twitter 
Owners who have issues in how these projectors cope with HDR should make their views known.


----------



## Mikesp1

Lesmor said:


> While I agree in principle I lay the blame squarely on Epson
> 
> Epson market these projector as HDR capable but fail to back the claim up by providing a HDR mode or any guidance whatsoever based on their HDR engineering model
> 
> So we are all left to try and find or cobble together a setting that we can use.
> IMO it's not really good enough just to throw in the towel and look to support the company by hoping that the next version is better
> 
> Social media is a powerful consumer tool.
> Epson have a presence on Facebook and Twitter
> Owners who have issues in how these projectors cope with HDR should make their views known.


I 100% agree!


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> While I agree in principle I lay the blame squarely on Epson
> 
> Epson market these projector as HDR capable but fail to back the claim up by providing a HDR mode or any guidance whatsoever based on their HDR engineering model
> 
> So we are all left to try and find or cobble together a setting that we can use.
> IMO it's not really good enough just to throw in the towel and then support the company going forward by considering buying the next version in the hope that it is better.
> 
> Social media is a powerful consumer tool.
> Epson have a presence on Facebook and Twitter
> Owners who have issues in how these projectors cope with HDR should make their views known.


 I agree 100%


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> I do not think anything in bright cinema will compare to harper vision, the P3 is just too awesome with colors. Bright cinema kills detail and washes out color. I compared HV to my settings and I realized just how good they are. The pics I have blew me away. I had my calibrator do a calibration in 4K SDR 2020 then put HV settings over the top. Is that okay dave? Also do you know of a USB test pattern brightness/contrast for 709?
> 
> 
> 
> Pics


My settings are designed to take in full HDR and use SDR mode with custom settings, so no, sending SDR bt2020 should not work well. Sorry. 

R. Masciola's also has downloadable bt709 patterns and disc I believe. 




Lesmor said:


> While I agree in principle I lay the blame squarely on Epson
> 
> 
> 
> Epson market these projector as HDR capable but fail to back the claim up by providing a HDR mode or any guidance whatsoever based on their HDR engineering model
> 
> 
> 
> So we are all left to try and find or cobble together a setting that we can use.
> 
> IMO it's not really good enough just to throw in the towel and then support the company going forward by considering buying the next version in the hope that it is better.
> 
> 
> 
> Social media is a powerful consumer tool.
> 
> Epson have a presence on Facebook and Twitter
> 
> Owners who have issues in how these projectors cope with HDR should make their views known.





Mikesp1 said:


> I 100% agree!


I 100% disagree. Sorry. No projector is really great with its HDR implementation. It was never developed with home projectors in mind. Even the vaunted and over-hyped JVCs have to have custom gamma and settings to look their best.


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> While I agree in principle I lay the blame squarely on Epson
> 
> Epson market these projector as HDR capable but fail to back the claim up by providing a HDR mode or any guidance whatsoever based on their HDR engineering model
> 
> So we are all left to try and find or cobble together a setting that we can use.
> IMO it's not really good enough just to throw in the towel and then support the company going forward by considering buying the next version in the hope that it is better.
> 
> Social media is a powerful consumer tool.
> Epson have a presence on Facebook and Twitter
> Owners who have issues in how these projectors cope with HDR should make their views known.





Dave Harper said:


> My settings are designed to take in full HDR and use SDR mode with custom settings, so no, sending SDR bt2020 should not work well. Sorry.
> 
> R. Masciola's also has downloadable bt709 patterns and disc I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I 100% disagree. Sorry. No projector is really great with its HDR implementation. It was never developed with home projectors in mind. Even the vaunted and over-hyped JVCs have to have custom gamma and settings to look their best.


 so do not use the 4k SDR 2020 digital cinema RGBYCM settings with harper vision? I will put them at default 50.


----------



## kbarnes701

Dave Harper said:


> I 100% disagree. Sorry. No projector is really great with its HDR implementation. It was never developed with home projectors in mind. Even the vaunted and over-hyped JVCs have to have custom gamma and settings to look their best.


FWIW I am with you on this one, Dave. Also we need to remember that this is not an expensive PJ for the features and spec it offers. AIUI the issue with HDR is mostly to do with the light output of the PJs and, as you say, most PJs fall short in this regard.


----------



## Lesmor

Dave Harper said:


> I 100% disagree. Sorry. No projector is really great with its HDR implementation. It was never developed with home projectors in mind. Even the vaunted and over-hyped JVCs have to have custom gamma and settings to look their best.


Sorry Dave but by default you are in 100% agreement
If HDR was never developed for projectors a company should not be able to make false marketing claims suggesting that they are capable of HDR.
IMO this is blatant mis-selling

Some members have resigned themselves to the fact that these Epson's are poor in the implementation of HDR but are already looking 3 months forward just in the hope that the new models will have improved.
From what you are saying this will never be the case.

Edit: Hi Keith 
I agree for the price point the Epsons offer great value and can produce a stunning image 
I am also grateful to Dave for producing settings that we can use for UHD HDR 
I still think Epson should have provided a HDR mode setting based on how they engineered the product


----------



## kbarnes701

Lesmor said:


> Edit: Hi Keith
> I agree for the price point the Epsons offer great value and can produce a stunning image
> I am also grateful to Dave for producing settings that we can use for UHD HDR
> I still think Epson should have provided a HDR mode setting based on how they engineered the product


Yo!  Well I got a decent enough result using HDR1, after much fiddling about. Not as good as HarperVision though and not really good enough for me to want to pay extra for UHD discs. And in truth we *are* getting the benefits of WCG now thanks to Dave. All that Epson need to do, which is how I am interpreting what you say, is to bake in a HDR setting, called HDR5, that uses Dave's settings. They could do that via a FW update. I wonder why they didn't do it in the first place?

I think it's unfair to single out Epson in this regard because there are NO consumer projectors, AFAIK, which have enough nits for good HDR.

On another point, maybe I should be cursing Dave not praising him - the last 3 movies I have bought are all UHD and have cost me way more than their BD equivalents LOL  Up till now I had more or less written off the UHD discs as not being worth the premium.


----------



## robc1976

Just to give you guys a warning, Epson admitted to me they are seeing units going out with power supply failing. 
They are sending me new unit and also paying for my calibrations I just had performed.


----------



## Lesmor

kbarnes701 said:


> Yo!  Well I got a decent enough result using HDR1, after much fiddling about. Not as good as HarperVision though and not really good enough for me to want to pay extra for UHD discs. And in truth we *are* getting the benefits of WCG now thanks to Dave. All that Epson need to do, which is how I am interpreting what you say, is to bake in a HDR setting, called HDR5, that uses Dave's settings. They could do that via a FW update. I wonder why they didn't do it in the first place?
> 
> I think it's unfair to single out Epson in this regard because there are NO consumer projectors, AFAIK, which have enough nits for good HDR.
> 
> On another point, maybe I should be cursing Dave not praising him - the last 3 movies I have bought are all UHD and have cost me way more than their BD equivalents LOL  Up till now I had more or less written off the UHD discs as not being worth the premium.


I am not singling out Epson per se but it is the product I purchased 

I have not explained myself very well but yes you are correct a mode with HDR settings via a FW update either based on Dave's or Epsons HDR engineering design would be welcome.

Like you I question if the HDR performance is good enough to pay the price premium for UHD HDR discs.
Perhaps under dynamic range a HDR Off and keep the WCG might have been a good option.

I bought my 9300 to replace an aging Panasonic AE3000 and the Epson has been a very good choice for watching upscaled HD Blu-ray


----------



## Dave Harper

Lesmor said:


> Sorry Dave but by default you are in 100% agreement
> 
> If HDR was never developed for projectors a company should not be able to make false marketing claims suggesting that they are capable of HDR.
> 
> IMO this is blatant mis-selling
> 
> 
> 
> Some members have resigned themselves to the fact that these Epson's are poor in the implementation of HDR but are already looking 3 months forward just in the hope that the new models will have improved.
> 
> From what you are saying this will never be the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Hi Keith
> 
> I agree for the price point the Epsons offer great value and can produce a stunning image
> 
> I am also grateful to Dave for producing settings that we can use for UHD HDR
> 
> I still think Epson should have provided a HDR mode setting based on how they engineered the product



Great points Lesmor, I agree! I do agree we can't just single out Epson though. 

I was contemplating calling these manufacturers like Epson and telling them about baking in something similar to HarperVision in the GUI/FW. Do you think they would even listen?




robc1976 said:


> so do not use the 4k SDR 2020 digital cinema RGBYCM settings with harper vision? I will put them at default 50.



If you're talking converting to SDR BT2020 in the player first, then yes do NOT use HarperVision. Those settings are based on receiving the full HDR signal, not SDR.


----------



## Oledurt

Mikesp1 said:


> I think we must face the fact that the 5040 is simply not that great with HDR.
> 
> Dave's workaround however brings the very best out of this projector. Thanks Dave!
> 
> 
> 
> For the money we have a great 1080P projector that upscales 1080P content very decently. On top of that this projector gives us the opportunity to watch 4K UHD disks, thanks to Dave with stunning results. I believe that at this price point this is still unseen. I gave up on native HDR with this pj, we need a pj with a lot more lumens 2 to 3 times more. At this time this is not affordable. After sticking with the Harper Vision settings for HDR to SDR conversion I am very happy with this pj.
> 
> 
> 
> I also tried to do the HDR to SDR conversion via the Oppo 203 and its strip metadata function but it seems the Oppo is not that great at converting HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I saw PJ's costing 3 and 4 times more than the 5040 that were not that great either wit HDR.




I strongly disagree with this statement. I love HDR on this projector.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

would everyone on here define what they think "good HDR" looks like. When I put an overly dark HDR disc in ie The Arrival, and watch it on my OLED which is capable of at least 5 times the nits as this projector, and it still looks overly dark could it be possible the way they did HDR on that particular disc is a problem?
I am most interested in actual tests done with scientific calibration equipment that follows the current HDR-10 standard that shows the "flaw" in HDR on this projector.

This projector can be calibrated for HDR within the range it is capable of doing. Some HDR discs are overly dark. Some are not. There is a lot of variation between HDR done well, and HDR done bad.

You can't calibrate for every single variation movie to movie. If you make one disc that looks overly dark look "good" you make another one looked washed out. As the technology matures the discs will be mastered better. The projector companies will provide more tools to tweak your HDR image. 

Nothing against dave and all the work he has done but I find those images (Harpervision) overly bright, and over exposed. Without scientific data indicated daves way is the "right" way then it is all just conjecture, and here say.

There is a standard for HDR-10. If you want to be a video purist you should want to adhere as closely as possible to that standard.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> would everyone on here define what they think "good HDR" looks like. When I put an overly dark HDR disc in ie The Arrival, and watch it on my OLED which is capable of at least 5 times the nits as this projector, and it still looks overly dark could it be possible the way they did HDR on that particular disc is a problem?
> I am most interested in actual tests done with scientific calibration equipment that follows the current HDR-10 standard that shows the "flaw" in HDR on this projector.
> 
> This projector can be calibrated for HDR within the range it is capable of doing. Some HDR discs are overly dark. Some are not. There is a lot of variation between HDR done well, and HDR done bad.
> 
> You can't calibrate for every single variation movie to movie. If you make one disc that looks overly dark look "good" you make another one looked washed out. As the technology matures the discs will be mastered better. The projector companies will provide more tools to tweak your HDR image.
> 
> Nothing against dave and all the work he has done but I find those images (Harpervision) overly bright, and over exposed. Without scientific data indicated daves way is the "right" way then it is all just conjecture, and here say.
> 
> There is a standard for HDR-10. If you want to be a video purist you should want to adhere as closely as possible to that standard.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


It's true that there is an HDR-10 spec, but based on what I've read there really is not a standard around how different display manufacturers do the tone mapping, given that nearly all consumer displays can't meet the spec. This is why experts on this site call it the wild west at the moment. 

This post discusses the issue as do many others on this site.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2901817-color-accuracy-thing-past.html

If Epson could provide more flexibility around the HDR tone mapping, that would be nice. But we would still be somewhat on our own. There doesn't seem to be a standard around how display manufacturers do the tone mapping, especially when talking about low nit displays such as projectors.

Edit: said another way, post the luminance you are getting off your screen across the 11 point grey scale, and I can point out how and where you are not meeting the spec, unless you are getting 1000 nits at 100% white. ; )


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Great points Lesmor, I agree! I do agree we can't just single out Epson though.
> 
> I was contemplating calling these manufacturers like Epson and telling them about baking in something similar to HarperVision in the GUI/FW. Do you think they would even listen?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're talking converting to SDR BT2020 in the player first, then yes do NOT use HarperVision. Those settings are based on receiving the full HDR signal, not SDR.


 Dave, I have a digital cinema 4K SDR file, use those color settings for HV. the player is still out putting HDR.


----------



## Oledurt

jwhn said:


> It's true that there is an HDR-10 spec, but based on what I've read there really is not a standard around how different display manufacturers do the tone mapping, given that nearly all consumer displays can't meet the spec. This is why experts on this site call it the wild west at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> This post discusses the issue as do many others on this site.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2901817-color-accuracy-thing-past.html
> 
> 
> 
> If Epson could provide more flexibility around the HDR tone mapping, that would be nice. But we would still be somewhat on our own. There doesn't seem to be a standard around how display manufacturers do the tone mapping, especially when talking about low nit displays such as projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: said another way, post the luminance you are getting off your screen across the 11 point grey scale, and I can point out how and where you are not meeting the spec, unless you are getting 1000 nits at 100% white. ; )




you obviously know more than me about this stuff. I am not equipped to argue or debate you so I won't.

I paid for an ISF calibration and posted my settings that is all. I just found daves method washed out my colors and made the image over exposed. It works for a lot of people on here which is awesome. I just couldn't get it to work for me.

Michael Boeker ISF calibrator did my HDR calibration. here is his website. http://www.highimpactav.com/ 






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> you obviously know more than me about this stuff. I am not equipped to argue or debate you so I won't.
> 
> I paid for an ISF calibration and posted my settings that is all. I just found daves method washed out my colors and made the image over exposed. It works for a lot of people on here which is awesome. I just couldn't get it to work for me.
> 
> Michael Boeker ISF calibrator did my HDR calibration. here is his website. http://www.highimpactav.com/
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I actually know very little. I'm just parroting some of the experts here. ; ) 

You should be commended for your contributions and for trying to apply an objective approach. I think everyone would agree with the spirit of that. And I have full confidence that Michael knows exactly what he is doing. 

The issue today is trying to apply a standard that has a range from 0 to 10K nits to an application that goes from 0 to 50 (or even 800) nits. What's the "scientific" way to do that? The major TV / projector manufacturers have all arrived at different conclusions. So it would not be surprising if different ISF calibrators (like Michael and Dave) would arrive at different approaches (both of which try to meet the HDR10 standard as best as they can but technically don't).

So for now we can't completely rely on scientific approaches and have to use some judgement, just like you did when evaluating Dave's settings.

There is a Dolby Cinema in my city - I may go check out the latest Planet of the Apes movie which is in HDR. My understanding is that their cinemas have a max of 105 nits so I'm curious to see how they have applied their own standards to a low nit situation and what it looks like.


----------



## KBone

Ok guys, I got my projector set up and running, but I'm having a few issues. I've poked around this thread here and there, but it moves so fast. Hoping for some insight. All of my menu settings are bone stock (except High elevation mode is active)

Here's what equipment I'm using
5040
Shield 2017
Denon AVR-X4100w
Wii U 
DirecTV
PS4 Pro (coming soon)

Issue 1 - I'm not getting any 4K options from Netflix or Amazon through the Shield. I have the 4k Netflix account paid for because I get 4K stuff on my 4K Smart TV Upstairs. I checked the speed the Shield was pulling down and it was 165 Mbps. Everything on both Amazon and Netflix is just standard HD 1080p... no HDR or 4K. 

Issue 2 - When changing some images, the projector image dims out and pops right back. It's not just the Wii U, but when a screen has a major change, you can notice the dimming of the image and then it comes right back. Anyone else experience this?


----------



## steve0742003

KBone said:


> Ok guys, I got my projector set up and running, but I'm having a few issues. I've poked around this thread here and there, but it moves so fast. Hoping for some insight. All of my menu settings are bone stock (except High elevation mode is active)
> 
> Here's what equipment I'm using
> 5040
> Shield 2017
> Denon AVR-X4100w
> Wii U
> DirecTV
> PS4 Pro (coming soon)
> 
> Issue 1 - I'm not getting any 4K options from Netflix or Amazon through the Shield. I have the 4k Netflix account paid for because I get 4K stuff on my 4K Smart TV Upstairs. I checked the speed the Shield was pulling down and it was 165 Mbps. Everything on both Amazon and Netflix is just standard HD 1080p... no HDR or 4K.
> 
> Issue 2 - When changing some images, the projector image dims out and pops right back. It's not just the Wii U, but when a screen has a major change, you can notice the dimming of the image and then it comes right back. Anyone else experience this?


Change the shield output to 24p or 23.976p. It is in somewhere the video output settings for the shield. I am at work so cant get much more detailed without opening up the menu at home. Changing to that should give you the 4K in Amazon and Netflix. Also make sure the Shield has 4k set as the output resolution.


----------



## jwhn

KBone said:


> Ok guys, I got my projector set up and running, but I'm having a few issues. I've poked around this thread here and there, but it moves so fast. Hoping for some insight. All of my menu settings are bone stock (except High elevation mode is active)
> 
> Here's what equipment I'm using
> 5040
> Shield 2017
> Denon AVR-X4100w
> Wii U
> DirecTV
> PS4 Pro (coming soon)
> 
> Issue 1 - I'm not getting any 4K options from Netflix or Amazon through the Shield. I have the 4k Netflix account paid for because I get 4K stuff on my 4K Smart TV Upstairs. I checked the speed the Shield was pulling down and it was 165 Mbps. Everything on both Amazon and Netflix is just standard HD 1080p... no HDR or 4K.
> 
> Issue 2 - When changing some images, the projector image dims out and pops right back. It's not just the Wii U, but when a screen has a major change, you can notice the dimming of the image and then it comes right back. Anyone else experience this?


You might check your cabling. To get HDR you will need to set the Shield to 24p and rec.2020 color space. Restart the shield after making these settings changes.


----------



## steve0742003

steve0742003 said:


> Change the shield output to 24p or 23.976p. It is in somewhere the video output settings for the shield. I am at work so cant get much more detailed without opening up the menu at home. Changing to that should give you the 4K in Amazon and Netflix. Also make sure the Shield has 4k set as the output resolution.


Issue 2 might be the auto iris. I believe I noticed dimming and such when it was turned on. As well as the noise the auto iris makes while turned on. I keep mine turned off. It is worth a try to see if that fixes the dimming for you. I didn't really notice an image difference with it being off and I am very happy with the image it throws. But it might be a big deal to others.


----------



## KBone

jwhn said:


> You might check your cabling. To get HDR you will need to set the Shield to 24p and rec.2020 color space. Restart the shield after making these settings changes.


Ok, here's what I've got. The 24p I think I've got it, but your other suggestion doesn't match what shows up for me. 

Thanks for the help.


----------



## Keith Ferguson

Noob here so be gentle.... When I get this projector do I have to get it calibrated before adding Oledurt or HV settings on top or is this the calibration settings?


----------



## jwhn

KBone said:


> Ok, here's what I've got. The 24p I think I've got it, but your other suggestion doesn't match what shows up for me.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


You might try plugging the Nvidia directly into the Epson as a test and bypass your receiver. You should be getting an option for rec.2020. Make sure to plug into HMDI port 1 on the Epson.

Edit - it doesn't appear that your receiver supports HDCP 2.2 so that may very well be your problem. You may need to get an HD Fury Linker or another receiver to make it work.


----------



## welldun

Is the Sony UBP-X800 the best current option that can also stream Nexflix, Amazon and Youtube at 24 FPS?
I'm holding one at Best Buy and just want some feedback from you guys that have it or have tested it. Currently I'm using an older Sony Blu-ray player along with my Nvidia shield for streaming the 4K HDR content. So I'm wondering if I should keep that combo or go for the full 4K UHD Blu-ray experience??

I'm contemplating getting rid of the Nvidia Shield If the the Sony UBP-X800 can do the same. the only thing I know that it can't do is Kodi, so that would be the only reason I would consider keeping the Shield. 

What do you guys think?


----------



## KBone

jwhn said:


> You might try plugging the Nvidia directly into the Epson as a test and bypass your receiver. You should be getting an option for rec.2020. Make sure to plug into HMDI port 1 on the Epson.
> 
> Edit - it doesn't appear that your receiver supports HDCP 2.2 so that may very well be your problem. You may need to get an HD Fury Linker or another receiver to make it work.


Uggg... thanks for your help. I just picked this receiver up. I guess I should have done my research. 

Any suggestions on a receiver?


----------



## jwhn

KBone said:


> Uggg... thanks for your help. I just picked this receiver up. I guess I should have done my research.
> 
> Any suggestions on a receiver?


I'd head over to one of the audio forums for that. Just make sure it's 4K compatible. If you tell them your set up someone can likely help.


----------



## elDup

Hello Everyone, 

I'm a current Epson 5010 owner, since 2/12. Well it finally died today, and I don't think it's worth the effort or money to repair. I am now on the search for a new projector. I have really liked a lot of what 5010 offered spec-wise, and it performed to my satisfaction. Well, once they got a few bugs worked out via firmware early on. After doing a little research on my current issue, it seems that it was a fairly common problem reported on the 5010 forum, with a lot of discussion a couple years ago.

My question for y'all is: Does the 5040 have any know hardware issues that have recurred and reported in the forum? 

Thanks for any input.

-Leon


----------



## Category5

Oledurt said:


> would everyone on here define what they think "good HDR" looks like. When I put an overly dark HDR disc in ie The Arrival, and watch it on my OLED which is capable of at least 5 times the nits as this projector, and it still looks overly dark could it be possible the way they did HDR on that particular disc is a problem?
> I am most interested in actual tests done with scientific calibration equipment that follows the current HDR-10 standard that shows the "flaw" in HDR on this projector.
> 
> This projector can be calibrated for HDR within the range it is capable of doing. Some HDR discs are overly dark. Some are not. There is a lot of variation between HDR done well, and HDR done bad.
> 
> You can't calibrate for every single variation movie to movie. If you make one disc that looks overly dark look "good" you make another one looked washed out. As the technology matures the discs will be mastered better. The projector companies will provide more tools to tweak your HDR image.
> 
> Nothing against dave and all the work he has done but I find those images (Harpervision) overly bright, and over exposed. Without scientific data indicated daves way is the "right" way then it is all just conjecture, and here say.
> 
> There is a standard for HDR-10. If you want to be a video purist you should want to adhere as closely as possible to that standard.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hit the nail on the head. There really is no standard. We are at a time where the technology is moving fast. i dont believe the filmmakers are sure how to properly implement it. I have about 15 uhd blurays. Ive watched them on a Sony X940C (75in FALD) that can do well over a 1000nits and the epson 5040 ube on a 120in cinewhite 1.1 gain. Ive also used the xbox one s and the panasonic ub900. The biggest variable in picture quality has been in the UHD Blurays. Arrival is a great example. The film has a dark, at times almost fuzzy tone, aside from the flash forwards that show her daughter. Those scenes are usually bright, clear, and colorful. In this situation its the filmmakers artistic intent. 

I also have a sony a6500 4k camera. Its capable of capturing stunning images and recording excellent 4k video. But to capture in RAW and then grade each scene or frame for a full dynamic range and wcg adds tremendous bandwidth needs to the postproduction process. Its much more time consuming. And the scene itself needs to have the necessary components of a good hdr showing.... a city panaromic at night, a sunset, vibrant colors and the proper lighting. These arent always around for every movie shoot. And these movies are out there trying to tell a story, and make money. They get the best images they can with what they have. 

The best movie representation of HDR for me has been The Life of Pi and the Revenant. Also, Planet Earth 2 technically not a movie. I know they used the Alexa 65 for the revenant which is a fantastically expensive camera you cant even buy if you wanted it. So until we have more consistency with Films using top of the line cameras shot in 6k/8k and downsampled to 4k with people who can handle post production HDR...its going to be slim pickings. 

In the meantime, the 5040ub is a great projector that puts out an amazing picture. Using proper light control, i get a great uhd bluray image out of the HDR1 mode using digital cinema. Occasionally ill use bright cinema with a few tweaks. Ive tried both Oledurts and Dave Harpers settings. Oledurts Bright Cinema is the most versatile. DH's kills it on a few UHD Blurays, like the Martian.


----------



## jason_galaxy

welldun said:


> Is the Sony UBP-X800 the best current option that can also stream Nexflix, Amazon and Youtube at 24 FPS?
> I'm holding one at Best Buy and just want some feedback from you guys that have it or have tested it. Currently I'm using an older Sony Blu-ray player along with my Nvidia shield for streaming the 4K HDR content. So I'm wondering if I should keep that combo or go for the full 4K UHD Blu-ray experience??
> 
> I'm contemplating getting rid of the Nvidia Shield If the the Sony UBP-X800 can do the same. the only thing I know that it can't do is Kodi, so that would be the only reason I would consider keeping the Shield.
> 
> What do you guys think?




I'm not able to get 24fps from the Youtube app, it seems to shift everything to 60fps. I've tried all the settings.
Netflix work fine, shifting to 24fps and HDR for the (few) shows they have in HDR. 


See my post a few up for my experience with the sony and the wireless transmitter in the UBE


----------



## k3nnis

Are most if not all of Netflix shows in 24p or 60Hz?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jason_galaxy

Category5 said:


> The best movie representation of HDR for me has been The Life of Pi and the Revenant. Also, Planet Earth 2 technically not a movie. .



Do you find you have to use a different setting for Revenant vs PE2? I find PE2 very bright and stunning on
Auto HDR(bright) but end up upping the gain on Revenant. Much of the movie is cloudy but there are
a couple scenes in bright sunlight with snow. In "real life" that would be blindingly bright, however, 
on the same setting as PE2 it looks more like moonlight than bright sun.

on the other hand, PE2 is completely blown out with the gain turned up. 


I have tried the various settings including Harper and I find they look great on some discs but not so much on others. I have finally settled on 5 different memories, and choose one that looks good for any given HDR disc.


It might not be reference to a standard but after 40 years of photography I know when I see clipped highlights and a loss of detail in the shadows. I haven't found one setting that can satisfy both on all discs.


----------



## jason_galaxy

k3nnis said:


> Are most if not all of Netflix shows in 24p or 60Hz?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I guess I haven't paid attention to non-HDR but it seems the movies as "HDR" are 24fps and do indeed
trigger HDR on the Epson. 


On the other hand the 24fps Youtube videos as confirmed by "stats for nerds" are showing up as 60
fps on the 5040. They do not show up HDR using HDMI1 on the Epson but will when using the 
wireless of the UBE


----------



## k3nnis

jason_galaxy said:


> I guess I haven't paid attention to non-HDR but it seems the movies as "HDR" are 24fps and do indeed
> trigger HDR on the Epson.
> 
> 
> On the other hand the 24fps Youtube videos as confirmed by "stats for nerds" are showing up as 60
> fps on the 5040. They do not show up HDR using HDMI1 on the Epson but will when using the
> wireless of the UBE




Ok thanks for the clarification. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Category5

jason_galaxy said:


> Do you find you have to use a different setting for Revenant vs PE2? I find PE2 very bright and stunning on
> Auto HDR(bright) but end up upping the gain on Revenant. Much of the movie is cloudy but there are
> a couple scenes in bright sunlight with snow. In "real life" that would be blindingly bright, however,
> on the same setting as PE2 it looks more like moonlight than bright sun.
> 
> on the other hand, PE2 is completely blown out with the gain turned up.
> 
> 
> I have tried the various settings including Harper and I find they look great on some discs but not so much on others. I have finally settled on 5 different memories, and choose one that looks good for any given HDR disc.
> 
> 
> It might not be reference to a standard but after 40 years of photography I know when I see clipped highlights and a loss of detail in the shadows. I haven't found one setting that can satisfy both on all discs.


yep theres no magic bullet. For my sanity, ive settled on 2 UHD Bluray settings. I use Oledurts bright cinema settings for movies that I think are on the darker side and a slight tweaking of the HDR1 mode for the others. For 1080p i just use the natural setting.


----------



## welldun

Those of you using the Sony your BP-x800, are you getting HDR from Amazon Prime? At the moment I'm only getting it through Netflix and obviously UHD HDR discs.


----------



## jwhn

jason_galaxy said:


> Netflix work fine, shifting to 24fps and HDR for the (few) shows they have in HDR.


Do the HDR titles in 24fps show up as UHD / 4K? I am currently having an issue with Netflix where I can get HDR (in 24p) or UHD (in 60p), but I can't get HDR and UHD at the same time. Are you able to stream HDR in UHD?


----------



## Keith Ferguson

*Need Help*



Keith Ferguson said:


> Noob here so be gentle.... When I get this projector do I have to get it calibrated before adding Oledurt or HV settings on top or is this the calibration settings?


:frown: Anyone?


----------



## welldun

Keith Ferguson said:


> :frown: Anyone?


That is the calibration based on his viewing environment. If your room and screen design match his, then it's possible that his calibration settings will work for you as well.


----------



## Keith Ferguson

welldun said:


> That is the calibration based on his viewing environment. If your room and screen design match his, then it's possible that his calibration settings will work for you as well.


Well thank you Sir


----------



## jason_galaxy

jwhn said:


> Do the HDR titles in 24fps show up as UHD / 4K? I am currently having an issue with Netflix where I can get HDR (in 24p) or UHD (in 60p), but I can't get HDR and UHD at the same time. Are you able to stream HDR in UHD?



there are only a few netflix shows that are HDR (most not worth watching). They show up as
"HDR" in the title and will trigger HDR in the Epson. The ones that says "UHD 4K" are not
HDR.


----------



## Kumar106

*recommendations needed*

Hi all,

I just bought 5040UB , and looking for the recommendations to setup the room 

Projector mount ---thinking of getting Peerless PRG-UNV
4K blueray player -----which will works the best with 5040 both for 4K and HDR ?
Screen--My room is 22'x13' and planning for 135 to 140" screen, any recommendations ?

For audio--
I already have Denon AVR-X4300 avr and will be getting GoldenEar Triton2+, 60C (center) for the front
for the surround side\back I am debating between GoldenEar 650 Vs MPX
for the Atmos--debating between GoldenEar 650 Vs HTR7000


If you can suggest on this that will be a big help.


----------



## Kumar106

Kumar106 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I just bought 5040UB , and looking for the recommendations to setup the room
> 
> Projector mount ---thinking of getting Peerless PRG-UNV
> 4K blueray player -----which will works the best with 5040 both for 4K and HDR ?
> Screen--My room is 22'x13' and planning for 135 to 140" screen, any recommendations ?
> 
> For audio--
> I already have Denon AVR-X4300 avr and will be getting GoldenEar Triton2+, 60C (center) for the front
> for the surround side\back I am debating between GoldenEar 650 Vs MPX
> for the Atmos--debating between GoldenEar 650 Vs HTR7000
> 
> 
> If you can suggest on this that will be a big help.


another option I am looking for mount is Chief RPMAU Elite, and I want the conceal the wires that are going to attic


----------



## welldun

Kumar106 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I just bought 5040UB , and looking for the recommendations to setup the room
> 
> Projector mount ---thinking of getting Peerless PRG-UNV
> 4K blueray player -----which will works the best with 5040 both for 4K and HDR ?
> Screen--My room is 22'x13' and planning for 135 to 140" screen, any recommendations ?
> 
> For audio--
> I already have Denon AVR-X4300 avr and will be getting GoldenEar Triton2+, 60C (center) for the front
> for the surround side\back I am debating between GoldenEar 650 Vs MPX
> for the Atmos--debating between GoldenEar 650 Vs HTR7000
> 
> 
> If you can suggest on this that will be a big help.


1. Ceiling Mount: For the mount, it would help to know the height of the room as well. In my case, due to the combination of a relatively low ceiling height (just under 8 feet), the size of the 5040UB and its proximity to the door, I needed a special low-profile mount with an adapter from Chief that allows for the door to swing under the PJ without hitting it. If your ceiling is much higher than mine, then could probably use one of the many mounts that Chief and Crimson make. whichever one you go with, just make sure that it includes a quick release design which will help you in the future if you have to take the PJ down for some reason.

2. 4k blu-ray player: I just picked up the Sony UBP-x800 but I'm not 100% sure that I will keep it. I have limited use on it and so far it works as advertised, but I'm still considering whether the UHD player and discs will have that much of an impact over my standard blu-rays with the 4k enhancement when paired with the 5040UB. Since I already have the Nvidia shield which streams in 4k and HDR, the only benefit with the 4k UHD disc player would be its ability to play 4k UHD disc with HDR. I need some more testing and feedback to justify keeping the UHD player at this time, not because it doesn't work as advertised, but rather because my standard blu-rays look wonderful with this projector and I've yet to see the big jump in PQ when using the UHD discs. Having said all of that, some folks here also love the Oppo and the Panasonic UHD players. 

3. Screen: You have a lot of choices here, which would be narrowed down based your budget and light control in the room. If the room is a dedicated HT with no ambient light (a bat cave as we say here) then a white screen works well with this PJ. I have a 100 inch edge free screen from Elite Screens and I love it. can't go any higher in size due to room design. 

4. Audio: it looks like you have some great choices based on the Denon and Golden Ear brands, however, I don't have any personal experience with them. My setup (as you can see in my signature below) is comprised mainly of Pioneer Elite gear, all of which was made before Onkyo purchased that division from Pioneer. Personally I love how the setup sounds in my room. Be aware that just as is the case with video equipment, audio equipment also has to be properly calibrated to the room that it is in. Therefore start with quality gear, and then fine tune it in order to get the most fromit in your room ( unfortunately, there is no guarantee that just because they sounded great in the store, they will also sound great in your room).


----------



## burton14e7

Kumar106 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I just bought 5040UB , and looking for the recommendations to setup the room
> 
> Projector mount ---thinking of getting Peerless PRG-UNV
> 4K blueray player -----which will works the best with 5040 both for 4K and HDR ?
> Screen--My room is 22'x13' and planning for 135 to 140" screen, any recommendations ?
> 
> For audio--
> I already have Denon AVR-X4300 avr and will be getting GoldenEar Triton2+, 60C (center) for the front
> for the surround side\back I am debating between GoldenEar 650 Vs MPX
> for the Atmos--debating between GoldenEar 650 Vs HTR7000
> 
> 
> If you can suggest on this that will be a big help.


I have zero experience as my first media room is being set up on Monday but for my Epson 6040 I went with a 135" Screen Innovations 5 series fixed frame pure white 1.3 gain.


----------



## Kumar106

welldun said:


> 1. Ceiling Mount: For the mount, it would help to know the height of the room as well. In my case, due to the combination of a relatively low ceiling height (just under 8 feet), the size of the 5040UB and its proximity to the door, I needed a special low-profile mount with an adapter from Chief that allows for the door to swing under the PJ without hitting it. If your ceiling is much higher than mine, then could probably use one of the many mounts that Chief and Crimson make. whichever one you go with, just make sure that it includes a quick release design which will help you in the future if you have to take the PJ down for some reason.
> 
> 2. 4k blu-ray player: I just picked up the Sony UBP-x800 but I'm not 100% sure that I will keep it. I have limited use on it and so far it works as advertised, but I'm still considering whether the UHD player and discs will have that much of an impact over my standard blu-rays with the 4k enhancement when paired with the 5040UB. Since I already have the Nvidia shield which streams in 4k and HDR, the only benefit with the 4k UHD disc player would be its ability to play 4k UHD disc with HDR. I need some more testing and feedback to justify keeping the UHD player at this time, not because it doesn't work as advertised, but rather because my standard blu-rays look wonderful with this projector and I've yet to see the big jump in PQ when using the UHD discs. Having said all of that, some folks here also love the Oppo and the Panasonic UHD players.
> 
> 3. Screen: You have a lot of choices here, which would be narrowed down based your budget and light control in the room. If the room is a dedicated HT with no ambient light (a bat cave as we say here) then a white screen works well with this PJ. I have a 100 inch edge free screen from Elite Screens and I love it. can't go any higher in size due to room design.
> 
> 4. Audio: it looks like you have some great choices based on the Denon and Golden Ear brands, however, I don't have any personal experience with them. My setup (as you can see in my signature below) is comprised mainly of Pioneer Elite gear, all of which was made before Onkyo purchased that division from Pioneer. Personally I love how the setup sounds in my room. Be aware that just as is the case with video equipment, audio equipment also has to be properly calibrated to the room that it is in. Therefore start with quality gear, and then fine tune it in order to get the most fromit in your room ( unfortunately, there is no guarantee that just because they sounded great in the store, they will also sound great in your room).


Thank you so much the detailed info, My room is a dedicated theater with no light source (its a bat cave), size going to 22'x13' and with 9' ceiling


----------



## Kumar106

burton14e7 said:


> I have zero experience as my first media room is being set up on Monday but for my Epson 6040 I went with a 135" Screen Innovations 5 series fixed frame pure white 1.3 gain.


thank you I will check up the screen


----------



## Domcorleone

This might be a dumb question but does the 5040 retain the "film" look that projectors bring? I am about to pull the trigger on the 5040 and it was between that and the sony 45es (i loved how the sony looked when I tested it out).

Also,

Any pull down screen suggestions?


----------



## seplant

Keith Ferguson said:


> Noob here so be gentle.... When I get this projector do I have to get it calibrated before adding Oledurt or HV settings on top or is this the calibration settings?


You'll want your calibrator to get your color balance and grayscale dialed in for your particular environment and for each of your sources. Then you can play around with other settings to meet your preferences. One thing I did was to have mine calibrated with a memory slot for a pseudo-HV setting by forcing SDR and then feeding HDR test patterns. This way I get the advantages of Harpervision, but calibrated to my setup. The gamma curve ended up the same shape as Dave's, but the values are different.


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

Domcorleone said:


> This might be a dumb question but does the 5040 retain the "film" look that projectors bring? I am about to pull the trigger on the 5040 and it was between that and the sony 45es (i loved how the sony looked when I tested it out).
> 
> Also,
> 
> Any pull down screen suggestions?


To me it does. On a clean digital BD, the extra pixels smooth out the look. On a film with a nice grain field, the image looks fantastic.


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

*Fan noise - bearing?*

I hear a low frequency whirring, [even] while in Eco mode, low power, no input.
I wonder if it's a fan bearing or other fan defect?
It is in addition to the expected air movement noise.
I have linked to an audio file recorded on my iPhone, a few inches from the front.
Midway, I power the unit off, and you can hear the noise follow the fan speed.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/89aa3q6g39vvedf/Proj%20Noise%20Power%20Off.m4a?dl=0


----------



## jwhn

welldun said:


> 2. 4k blu-ray player: I just picked up the Sony UBP-x800 but I'm not 100% sure that I will keep it. I have limited use on it and so far it works as advertised, but I'm still considering whether the UHD player and discs will have that much of an impact over my standard blu-rays with the 4k enhancement when paired with the 5040UB. Since I already have the Nvidia shield which streams in 4k and HDR, the only benefit with the 4k UHD disc player would be its ability to play 4k UHD disc with HDR. I need some more testing and feedback to justify keeping the UHD player at this time, not because it doesn't work as advertised, but rather because my standard blu-rays look wonderful with this projector and I've yet to see the big jump in PQ when using the UHD discs. Having said all of that, some folks here also love the Oppo and the Panasonic UHD players.


In case it helps, I ended up returning my Sony (and also have the Nvidia). The other benefit I remember is the ability to stream Netflix in HDR/4K. The Shield will only stream one or the other (4K or HDR). Since the upscaled HD looks very close to the 4K from my viewing distance, it wasn't worth keeping for this benefit alone. But AFAIK, the UHD players like the Sony are still the only way to correctly stream Netflix on the 5040.


----------



## drhankz

*Comparison Between the Epson and Optima*

*



*


----------



## achanonier

jwhn said:


> Do the HDR titles in 24fps show up as UHD / 4K? I am currently having an issue with Netflix where I can get HDR (in 24p) or UHD (in 60p), but I can't get HDR and UHD at the same time. Are you able to stream HDR in UHD?


Samething here

A 4kUHD HDR title will either shows up as HD HDR if Shield set to 4k24 BT2020 or 4kUHD SDR if Shield set to 4k60BT709.
Is this due to Shield or Netflix that just allows 4kHDR at 60hz ?

Amazon offers 4kHDR at 24p with the Shield.


----------



## achanonier

jwhn said:


> In case it helps, I ended up returning my Sony (and also have the Nvidia). The other benefit I remember is the ability to stream Netflix in HDR/4K. The Shield will only stream one or the other (4K or HDR). Since the upscaled HD looks very close to the 4K from my viewing distance, it wasn't worth keeping for this benefit alone. But AFAIK, the UHD players like the Sony are still the only way to correctly stream Netflix on the 5040.




So you are saying that with the Sony Netflix shows 4KUHD HDR tites at 24p ? .... Interseting... Always thought it was a Netflix limitation...
I won't change my UB700 though the HDR Range slider is such a good tool to get correct HDR on the PJ, I would'nt live without it...


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

drhankz said:


> *Epson Pro Cinema 4040 vs Optoma UHD65 4K*


4040 is not a projector this thread is about.

You should rather have posted it here:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...735945-epson-4040-official-owners-thread.html


----------



## jcrochax

Hello all..

I have a Epson 5040 UB and i use it with a Dell notebook in extended and mirror mode..
today i receive a new notebook Dell, with Nvidia graphic card inside, and i noted the projection image is flickering. I try to contact dell support , we downloaded the recent drivers, but the problem stills. Has anyone having the same problem?
i tried to test the notebook with other projector i have, a epson 8350, and it workings fine, with a fullhd television, works fine too, just with the 5040 the issues happens...
any setup tips?
tks.


----------



## welldun

achanonier said:


> So you are saying that with the Sony Netflix shows 4KUHD HDR tites at 24p ? .... Interseting... Always thought it was a Netflix limitation...
> I won't change my UB700 though the HDR Range slider is such a good tool to get correct HDR on the PJ, I would'nt live without it...


from what I was able to test last night, the Sony UBP-X800 plays the Netflix programming in whichever format they are presented. meaning that a show such as The Medici which available in 4k will be played in 4k. Other shows such as Iron Fist are listed as HDR, and that is how the Sony plays it. However on the Nvidia Shield the only options I saw were HD for the Medici not the 4k, even though Iron Fist show up as HDR. Tonight I will test this again but with the Nvidia Shield set to 60fps instead of 24fps. Maybe this will produce the 4k version of Medici although it will definitely block the HDR from Iron Fist.I guess if that works, One could switch settings between 24fps and 60fps in the Shield based whether or not the program that you plan to watch at the moment is available in HDR. 

One other note, although both the Sony and the Shield presented Iron Fist in HDR, the resolution of the Sony appeared to be higher than that of the Shield.


----------



## welldun

Dave Harper said:


> OK. I think I noticed that you showed my DC settings as using Eco mode, but they don't. They use High.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom gamma deals with how the electrical/electronic data of the video translates to the actual video level of that particular gamma point presented. The lamp brightness modes are just overall picture level brightness on screen (not specific points in the video signal), so if you drop to medium and eco it doesn't really affect the gamma settings the whole image just gets dimmer or brighter (ft lamberts).
> 
> All that you should really need to do is reset the basic brightness, contrast, etc. type settings but I doubt they'll be too much different. Use R. Masciola's patterns or Sony discs for that.


Dave, thanks again for sharing those setting with us. I sent you a PM a few days ago, not sure if you noticed it. If and when you have a moment, could please read it and reply. Thanks again.


----------



## jwhn

welldun said:


> from what I was able to test last night, the Sony UBP-X800 plays the Netflix programming in whichever format they are presented. meaning that a show such as The Medici which available in 4k will be played in 4k. Other shows such as Iron Fist are listed as HDR, and that is how the Sony plays it. However on the Nvidia Shield the only options I saw were HD for the Medici not the 4k, even though Iron Fist show up as HDR. Tonight I will test this again but with the Nvidia Shield set to 60fps instead of 24fps. Maybe this will produce the 4k version of Medici although it will definitely block the HDR from Iron Fist.I guess if that works, One could switch settings between 24fps and 60fps in the Shield based whether or not the program that you plan to watch at the moment is available in HDR.
> 
> One other note, although both the Sony and the Shield presented Iron Fist in HDR, the resolution of the Sony appeared to be higher than that of the Shield.


Thanks for testing. And just to be clear, with the Sony you are seeing the labels for BOTH HDR and UHD at the same time, correct? See the attached image.


----------



## welldun

jwhn said:


> Thanks for testing. And just to be clear, with the Sony you are seeing the labels for BOTH HDR and UHD at the same time, correct? See the attached image.


I will double check tonight using Marco Polo just as you did in your picture. However the shows that I have skimmed through when searching from HDR so far have only been listed as HDR not Ultra HD 4k HDR as its shown in your picture. If you take a look at the two attachments here, this is how the show named Abstract is offered both on the Sony and the Shield (and this is with a hardwired internet connection that measured 93Mbps on the Sony and most likely the Shield):


----------



## welldun

welldun said:


> I will double check tonight using Marco Polo just as you did in your picture. However the shows that I have skimmed through when searching from HDR so far have only been listed as HDR not Ultra HD 4k HDR as its shown in your picture. If you take a look at the two attachments here, this is how the show named Abstract is offered both on the Sony and the Shield (and this is with a hardwired internet connection that measured 93Mbps on the Sony and most likely the Shield):


I checked again with the Sony and anything on Netflix that is HDR is only labeled as HDR and nothing else. Then any else that is Ultra HD 4K but not HDR is labeled as Ultra HD 4K.


----------



## Oledurt

I must eat my words. I have spent a lot of time with Dave Harper's Harpervision settings vs my calibrated settings. After a lot of testing and viewing material I have come to realize the HDR tone mapping just isn't right on this Epson. It just makes everything too dark. calibrated or not. I am using the calibrated CMS that my calibrator gave me and Harpervision over that. The only thing I changed was adjusting the brightness to my room. I leave you comparison shots from the 4k version of The Unforgiven. Keep in mind their is no white clipping on the screen that is just the crappy camera in my ipad.

Oledurt's settings










Harpervision










Oledurt's settings










Harpervision










Oledurt's settings










Harpervision










Daves way is the way to go for 4k on this projector. Epson's tone mapping in all their HDR modes are too dark. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

Oledurt said:


> I must eat my words. I have spent a lot of time with Dave Harper's Harpervision settings vs my calibrated settings. After a lot of testing and viewing material I have come to realize the HDR tone mapping just isn't right on this Epson. It just makes everything too dark. calibrated or not. I am using the calibrated CMS that my calibrator gave me and Harpervision over that. The only thing I changed was adjusting the brightness to my room. I leave you comparison shots from the 4k version of The Unforgiven. Keep in mind their is no white clipping on the screen that is just the crappy camera in my ipad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Interesting. I didn't want to admit it... but I recently discovered that my brightness settings on my Oppo were at +7. I had forgotten that I left it there from back when I was using the strip metadata function on the Oppo and Oppo recommended bumping up the brightness to +7 or +8. 

So....my Oledurt Settings were with the brightness cranked up - but it makes sense because I have a pretty large screen. 

The thing is, with trying a few 4K disks I still prefer these ^ settings to HarperVision. I'll try both again though, there is a decent chance I have something set wrong. 

Anyone else have the Oppo 203? Try Oledurt's settings with the brightness on the Oppo turned up. You may not need +7 if you have a smaller screen. It's also interesting that when I set the Oppo back to 0 brightness and tried to compensate by turning up the brighness on the Epson I couldn't get the same great picture. It either looked too washed out when raising the brightness too high, or do dark if I left the brightness around 50.


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> I must eat my words. I have spent a lot of time with Dave Harper's Harpervision settings vs my calibrated settings. After a lot of testing and viewing material I have come to realize the HDR tone mapping just isn't right on this Epson. It just makes everything too dark. calibrated or not. I am using the calibrated CMS that my calibrator gave me and Harpervision over that. The only thing I changed was adjusting the brightness to my room. I leave you comparison shots from the 4k version of The Unforgiven. Keep in mind their is no white clipping on the screen that is just the crappy camera in my ipad.
> 
> Oledurt's settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harpervision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oledurt's settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harpervision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oledurt's settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harpervision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Daves way is the way to go for 4k on this projector. Epson's tone mapping in all their HDR modes are too dark.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 This is exatly what I experienced, yours where dark but had a really good crisp image.

I read in a PDF that you suggested using -8 on dynamic contrast setting in the UB900?

Will you PLEASE!! Post the CMS/rgbycm settings on your harper vision, Dave never posted one. I am using your DC cms right now but would LOVE to have your harper vision cms.


----------



## jwhn

welldun said:


> I checked again with the Sony and anything on Netflix that is HDR is only labeled as HDR and nothing else. Then any else that is Ultra HD 4K but not HDR is labeled as Ultra HD 4K.


Okay, thanks for checking. Maybe a bug with the Netflix app.


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> I must eat my words. I have spent a lot of time with Dave Harper's Harpervision settings vs my calibrated settings. After a lot of testing and viewing material I have come to realize the HDR tone mapping just isn't right on this Epson. It just makes everything too dark. calibrated or not. I am using the calibrated CMS that my calibrator gave me and Harpervision over that. The only thing I changed was adjusting the brightness to my room. I leave you comparison shots from the 4k version of The Unforgiven. Keep in mind their is no white clipping on the screen that is just the crappy camera in my ipad.
> 
> Daves way is the way to go for 4k on this projector. Epson's tone mapping in all their HDR modes are too dark.


Thanks for posting these pictures! Very helpful to see the difference. I must admit, I don't know what HDR is supposed to look like. I would need to see it on the monitors they use to master the content. But I agree the calibrated pics appear a bit dark. But I also believe that even the great HV settings create a picture that is flatter than it should be for HDR. 

It's funny that Epson made 4 HDR modes that get increasingly darker. I am trying to imagine the meeting when they decided on the 4th mode...."you know Bob, I think we need one more HDR setting that is even darker, in case we have users that enjoy sitting in a completely dark room..."


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> you obviously know more than me about this stuff. I am not equipped to argue or debate you so I won't.
> 
> I paid for an ISF calibration and posted my settings that is all. I just found daves method washed out my colors and made the image over exposed. It works for a lot of people on here which is awesome. I just couldn't get it to work for me.
> 
> Michael Boeker ISF calibrator did my HDR calibration. here is his website. http://www.highimpactav.com/
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Haha I was going to respond that there must be something off with the HV settings you're using because "washed out colors" and " over exposed" certainly didn't look or sound like what I was seeing here! Then by the time I got to the end of reading I saw the below post by you. I'm glad it's all well and good now. 

As I've said all along, yours were and are awesome too, and what inspired this whole stupid "HarperVision" thing in the first place!

You're the "wind beneath my wings" and my "inspiration"! (For some reason I hear Bette Midler and Chicago in my head, haha!) 



Oledurt said:


> I must eat my words. I have spent a lot of time with Dave Harper's Harpervision settings vs my calibrated settings. After a lot of testing and viewing material I have come to realize the HDR tone mapping just isn't right on this Epson. It just makes everything too dark. calibrated or not. I am using the calibrated CMS that my calibrator gave me and Harpervision over that. The only thing I changed was adjusting the brightness to my room. I leave you comparison shots from the 4k version of The Unforgiven. Keep in mind their is no white clipping on the screen that is just the crappy camera in my ipad.
> 
> Oledurt's settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harpervision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oledurt's settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harpervision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oledurt's settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harpervision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Daves way is the way to go for 4k on this projector. Epson's tone mapping in all their HDR modes are too dark.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



No reason to eat any words. I think the issue was and is always mine. I never really posted a clear and concise list of settings and what to do because I was constantly tinkering up until the day I sold it. I have to say the final version was smoking good, and just like yours it included a nice CMS and greyscale calibration before the final HV tweak. I can't believe I turned it off and boxed it up and shipped it without taking pix of those menu settings......Uuuggghhhh! 

I was really hoping the new owner would post them or send them to me. He was here in this thread too. I don't want to reveal him without consent though. That's not professional. 



jwhn said:


> Thanks for posting these pictures! Very helpful to see the difference. I must admit, I don't know what HDR is supposed to look like. I would need to see it on the monitors they use to master the content. But I agree the calibrated pics appear a bit dark. But I also believe that even the great HV settings create a picture that is flatter than it should be for HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> It's funny that Epson made 4 HDR modes that get increasingly darker. I am trying to imagine the meeting when they decided on the 4th mode...."you know Bob, I think we need one more HDR setting that is even darker, in case we have users that enjoy sitting in a completely dark room..."



I've heard a lot of things said about my settings, but "flat" certainly was never one of them. Something isn't right here either. The Revenant, Star Trek Beyond, The Martian, Ghostbusters, etc. all sharp as a tack with depth and 3 dimensionality. I'm confused. 



robc1976 said:


> Dave, I have a digital cinema 4K SDR file, use those color settings for HV. the player is still out putting HDR.



I'm still very confused by this statement. Please explain.


----------



## ht guy

Oledurt said:


> I must eat my words. I have spent a lot of time with Dave Harper's Harpervision settings vs my calibrated settings. After a lot of testing and viewing material I have come to realize the HDR tone mapping just isn't right on this Epson. It just makes everything too dark. calibrated or not. I am using the calibrated CMS that my calibrator gave me and Harpervision over that. The only thing I changed was adjusting the brightness to my room. I leave you comparison shots from the 4k version of The Unforgiven. Keep in mind their is no white clipping on the screen that is just the crappy camera in my ipad...
> 
> ...Daves way is the way to go for 4k on this projector. Epson's tone mapping in all their HDR modes are too dark.


Oledurt,

Just to confirm, this is your Digital Cinema settings with the UB900 DR conversion at -6, Brightness at +6 and HDFury Integral on Mode 10?

If yes, we don't really need the PDF summary I put together - at least for HDR.


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey Guys! I have a question about the Harper Vision settings converting HDR-SDR with the Digital Cinema picture. I noticed on the list that was posted with different users settings, Harper Vision is missing some key areas. It doesn't say what sharpness to use, color temp, customized color temp and it also doesn't list the customized color settings. Did HV keep those at the defaults or are people just using whatever they like? I'm mainly concerned with making sure I have the correct color temp and skin tone. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

ht guy said:


> Oledurt,
> 
> 
> 
> Just to confirm, this is your Digital Cinema settings with the UB900 DR conversion at -6, Brightness at +6 and HDFury Integral on Mode 10?
> 
> 
> 
> If yes, we don't really need the PDF summary I put together - at least for HDR.




Later I will post my settings for Harpervision. My CMS has been calibrated but it was in HDR mode during calibration so I don't know how accurate they are using Harpervision.

Nevertheless, They look pretty good. I will list everything out later when I get into my theater.

I have come to realize that what Harpervision addresses is the epic mistake that Epson made when they made their choices for how they tone mapped each HDR mode. They are all too dark! No matter what you do you cannot change or compensate for the bad HDR tone mapping of the projector.

Whoever tested those modes and came up with modes 2-4 should have their vision checked. Nobody in their right mind would use HDR Mode 4 .




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> I've heard a lot of things said about my settings, but "flat" certainly was never one of them. Something isn't right here either. The Revenant, Star Trek Beyond, The Martian, Ghostbusters, etc. all sharp as a tack with depth and 3 dimensionality..



Didn't say your settings were flat but rather flatter than a true HDR picture should be. More of a comment on the limitations of a projector for HDR. Seems like you are forced to make a trade off between dynamic range and brightness. I think most agree that your settings optimize that trade off. But are we seeing HDR content the way the creators intended? 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

jwhn said:


> Didn't say your settings were flat but rather flatter than a true HDR picture should be. More of a comment on the limitations of a projector for HDR. Seems like you are forced to make a trade off between dynamic range and brightness. I think most agree that your settings optimize that trade off. But are we seeing HDR content the way the creators intended?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I believe that the source and the material will also play a big role in just how good any of the settings will look. then there is also the human perception equation that has to be worked in, meaning we should take the time to allow our eyes and brain to adjust to the changes in between the settings. If you are bouncing back and forth between the different settings you might not be giving your brain enough time to process and appreciate the differences. I recommend spending a day or two with each setting and re-watching the same movie (better be a descent one) for a better comparison. I saw the 4k UHD HDR copy of Ghost in the Shell over the last two nights and it looked very good both in HarperVision and with Oledurt's settings.


----------



## Boggle

Oledurt said:


> Later I will post my settings for Harpervision. My CMS has been calibrated but it was in HDR mode during calibration so I don't know how accurate they are using Harpervision.
> 
> Nevertheless, They look pretty good. I will list everything out later when I get into my theater.
> 
> I have come to realize that what Harpervision addresses is the epic mistake that Epson made when they made their choices for how they tone mapped each HDR mode. They are all too dark! No matter what you do you cannot change or compensate for the bad HDR tone mapping of the projector.
> 
> Whoever tested those modes and came up with modes 2-4 should have their vision checked. Nobody in their right mind would use HDR Mode 4 .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Really excited to try whatever you came up with!


----------



## Oledurt

Boggle said:


> Really excited to try whatever you came up with!




Oledurt's take on Harpervision.

Color Mode Digital Cinema
Brightness 53 (please adjust this to your screen)
Contrast 100
Color Saturation 73
Tint 50

Sharpness all 0

Color Temp 4
Skin Tone 3

[Customized]
Offset R 48
Offset G 48
Offset B 50
Gain R 48
Gain G 61
Gain B 34

Image Enhancement Off
Super Resolution all 0
Detail Enhancement all 0

Power Consumption High
Auto Iris Normal

Gamma (from left to right)
0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28,-26,15,32

[RGBCMY]

R 
Hue 50 Saturation 23 Brightness 50
G
Hue 78 Saturation 8 Brightness 50
B 
Hue 68 Saturation 30 Brightness 50
C
Hue 56 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
M
Hue 76 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
Y
Hue 44 Saturation 29 Brightness 50

Epson Super White Off
Lens Iris 0

HDMI Video Range Normal
Color space BT.2020
Dynamic Range SDR
Image Processing Fine

No HD Fury, and all settings on the blu ray player at default.

The CMS was calibrated using HDR 1 tone mapping so I do not know how these translate to Harpervision, but to my eye watching various material it looks pretty good to me.

Best of luck.

Couple more screens of Unforgiven


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Well, I have purchased several 4k UHD discs. Most of the mentioned 'reference quality' ones. Then, I picked up Planet Earth II from Best Buy while I was there today. I've been watching it for the past hour. It is BY FAR the finest example of what these PJs are capable of. WOW! So far, nothing comes close to it. Now I understand what everyone is talking about. The DTS-HD Master soundtrack is superb as well. I hope other movie makers see this and learn how it's done. If so, we are going to be some VERY happy campers. Now I am certain, I am in NO hurry to upgrade to a true native 4k PJ. Life is good...


p.s. I just wish they had filmed it in 2.35:1


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> Oledurt's take on Harpervision.
> 
> Color Mode Digital Cinema
> Brightness 53 (please adjust this to your screen)
> Contrast 100
> Color Saturation 73
> Tint 50
> 
> Sharpness all 0
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> 
> [Customized]
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 48
> Gain G 61
> Gain B 34
> 
> Image Enhancement Off
> Super Resolution all 0
> Detail Enhancement all 0
> 
> Power Consumption High
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> Gamma (from left to right)
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28,-26,15,32
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> 
> R
> Hue 50 Saturation 23 Brightness 50
> G
> Hue 78 Saturation 8 Brightness 50
> B
> Hue 68 Saturation 30 Brightness 50
> C
> Hue 56 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> M
> Hue 76 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> Y
> Hue 44 Saturation 29 Brightness 50
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI Video Range Normal
> Color space BT.2020
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> No HD Fury, and all settings on the blu ray player at default.
> 
> The CMS was calibrated using HDR 1 tone mapping so I do not know how these translate to Harpervision, but to my eye watching various material it looks pretty good to me.
> 
> Best of luck.
> 
> Couple more screens of Unforgiven


Trying these now, West what "image preset are you using"


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> Trying these now, West what "image preset are you using"




No image preset.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> No image preset.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 awesome, what does image preset actually do?. All I noticed is it makes image brighter and sharper wich can be done with focus and brightness.


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> Didn't say your settings were flat but rather flatter than a true HDR picture should be. More of a comment on the limitations of a projector for HDR. Seems like you are forced to make a trade off between dynamic range and brightness. I think most agree that your settings optimize that trade off. But are we seeing HDR content the way the creators intended?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Well, projectors have a finite dynamic range they can do. If you shove 10,000 nits of dynamic range into a projector that can maybe do 100 nits if you're lucky then of course the image will look dark at normal APL. To me, that is what looks "flat" on projectors because most if not almost all of the movie happens in the first 50% or so of the picture levels and the last top 50% is for peak whites and specular highlights. I posted a graphic that showed this at some point. 

What HarperVision does is, as you can kind of see by the custom gamma curve, is stays low and stretches that APL out to about 75-80% of the dynamic range available on today's projectors and then has a super fast rise after that to 100% for whites and specular highlights. This is all in SDR mode and starts with an SDR type gamma too. 

Until they come out with very high lumen, high dynamic range projectors that can do HDR justice, my feeling is that this is by far the best compromise and image when sending HDR into a 4K projector, especially since you can do it on a 4K projector that isn't even listed as being HDR capable!

I believe if you actually saw my calibrated version of HarperVision setup by me, like I just did again late last night in my LS10500, you'd call it anything but "flat", or "flatter than HDR is supposed to be". The Revenant utterly floored me with its depth and three dimensionality and was the closest thing to watching 3D I have seen here. 

I think people trying to input my settings here just aren't realizing how intense it is to get "just right" and that literally one gamma point or setting being off a click or two can seriously change the image, depth and sharpness and real life look of what you're seeing. It is literally like it just "pops in" when you hit that sweet spot and your jaw drops, eyes pop out of your head and you say....._"Holy poop on a stick!!!!"_ like I just did last night when I hit HarperVision nirvana on the LS10500! 




Oledurt said:


> Later I will post my settings for Harpervision. My CMS has been calibrated but it was in HDR mode during calibration so I don't know how accurate they are using Harpervision.
> 
> Nevertheless, They look pretty good. I will list everything out later when I get into my theater.
> 
> I have come to realize that what Harpervision addresses is the epic mistake that Epson made when they made their choices for how they tone mapped each HDR mode. They are all too dark! No matter what you do you cannot change or compensate for the bad HDR tone mapping of the projector.
> 
> Whoever tested those modes and came up with modes 2-4 should have their vision checked. Nobody in their right mind would use HDR Mode 4 .
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I think I recall seeing that those modes are to be used based on the disc's HDR mastering nits level. For example:

HDR 1 = 1,000 nits
HDR 2 = 2,000 nits
HDR 3 = 4,000 nits
HDR 4 = 10,000 nits




Snoogleheimer said:


> Well, I have purchased several 4k UHD discs. Most of the mentioned 'reference quality' ones. Then, I picked up Planet Earth II from Best Buy while I was there today. I've been watching it for the past hour. It is BY FAR the finest example of what these PJs are capable of. WOW! So far, nothing comes close to it. Now I understand what everyone is talking about. The DTS-HD Master soundtrack is superb as well. I hope other movie makers see this and learn how it's done. If so, we are going to be some VERY happy campers. Now I am certain, I am in NO hurry to upgrade to a true native 4k PJ. Life is good...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. I just wish they had filmed it in 2.35:1



What modes were you using, hdr1 in DC, BC, HarperVision, etc?



Oledurt said:


> Oledurt's take on Harpervision.
> 
> Color Mode Digital Cinema
> Brightness 53 (please adjust this to your screen)
> Contrast 100
> Color Saturation 73
> Tint 50
> 
> Sharpness all 0
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> 
> [Customized]
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 48
> Gain G 61
> Gain B 34
> 
> Image Enhancement Off
> Super Resolution all 0
> Detail Enhancement all 0
> 
> Power Consumption High
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> Gamma (from left to right)
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28,-26,15,32
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> 
> R
> Hue 50 Saturation 23 Brightness 50
> G
> Hue 78 Saturation 8 Brightness 50
> B
> Hue 68 Saturation 30 Brightness 50
> C
> Hue 56 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> M
> Hue 76 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> Y
> Hue 44 Saturation 29 Brightness 50
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI Video Range Normal
> Color space BT.2020
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> No HD Fury, and all settings on the blu ray player at default.
> 
> The CMS was calibrated using HDR 1 tone mapping so I do not know how these translate to Harpervision, but to my eye watching various material it looks pretty good to me.
> 
> Best of luck.
> 
> Couple more screens of Unforgiven



CMS affects color gamut so since your HDR calibration also used bt2020 then they should be extremely similar. I bet if you had your Calibrator back and he measured in this mode it would only require very small tweaks, if any. 

Thanks again for your awesome work Oledurt!!!


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Well, projectors have a finite dynamic range they can do. If you shove 10,000 nits of dynamic range into a projector that can maybe do 100 nits if you're lucky then of course the image will look dark at normal APL. To me, that is what looks "flat" on projectors because most if not almost all of the movie happens in the first 50% or so of the picture levels and the last top 50% is for peak whites and specular highlights. I posted a graphic that showed this at some point.
> 
> What HarperVision does is, as you can kind of see by the custom gamma curve, is stays low and stretches that APL out to about 75-80% of the dynamic range available on today's projectors and then has a super fast rise after that to 100% for whites and specular highlights. This is all in SDR mode and starts with an SDR type gamma too.
> 
> Until they come out with very high lumen, high dynamic range projectors that can do HDR justice, my feeling is that this is by far the best compromise and image when sending HDR into a 4K projector, especially since you can do it on a 4K projector that isn't even listed as being HDR capable!
> 
> I believe if you actually saw my calibrated version of HarperVision setup by me, like I just did again late last night in my LS10500, you'd call it anything but "flat", or "flatter than HDR is supposed to be". The Revenant utterly floored me with its depth and three dimensionality and was the closest thing to watching 3D I have seen here.
> 
> I think people trying to input my settings here just aren't realizing how intense it is to get "just right" and that literally one gamma point or setting being off a click or two can seriously change the image, depth and sharpness and real life look of what you're seeing. It is literally like it just "pops in" when you hit that sweet spot and your jaw drops, eyes pop out of your head and you say....._"Holy poop on a stick!!!!"_ like I just did last night when I hit HarperVision nirvana on the LS10500!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I recall seeing that those modes are to be used based on the disc's HDR mastering nits level. For example:
> 
> HDR 1 = 1,000 nits
> HDR 2 = 2,000 nits
> HDR 3 = 4,000 nits
> HDR 4 = 10,000 nits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What modes were you using, hdr1 in DC, BC, HarperVision, etc?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CMS affects color gamut so since your HDR calibration also used bt2020 then they should be extremely similar. I bet if you had your Calibrator back and he measured in this mode it would only require very small tweaks, if any.
> 
> Thanks again for your awesome work Oledurt!!!


 Dave, what is your technique for adjusting sharpness/focus?. I am always messing with this lol! My calibrator said put text on the screen and pause it, get real close to screen and adjust until no fuzz around letters? 

I wish I could adjust your gamma curve by eye but that is literally impossible I am guessing. I did that for 1080 and got it prefect but nothing like your curve.


----------



## Wolfie

This is for anyone out there that has the 5040UBe (Wireless) model. I cannot change the Aspect Ratio (Auto/Normal/Full/Zoom). My option is always on NORMAL and can't be user selected. I am searching for any tips on how to release the other options. Has anyone had a firmware update on theirs?

Thanks,
Wolfie


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> Well, projectors have a finite dynamic range they can do. If you shove 10,000 nits of dynamic range into a projector that can maybe do 100 nits if you're lucky then of course the image will look dark at normal APL. To me, that is what looks "flat" on projectors because most if not almost all of the movie happens in the first 50% or so of the picture levels and the last top 50% is for peak whites and specular highlights. I posted a graphic that showed this at some point.
> 
> What HarperVision does is, as you can kind of see by the custom gamma curve, is stays low and stretches that APL out to about 75-80% of the dynamic range available on today's projectors and then has a super fast rise after that to 100% for whites and specular highlights. This is all in SDR mode and starts with an SDR type gamma too.
> 
> Until they come out with very high lumen, high dynamic range projectors that can do HDR justice, my feeling is that this is by far the best compromise and image when sending HDR into a 4K projector, especially since you can do it on a 4K projector that isn't even listed as being HDR capable!
> 
> I believe if you actually saw my calibrated version of HarperVision setup by me, like I just did again late last night in my LS10500, you'd call it anything but "flat", or "flatter than HDR is supposed to be". The Revenant utterly floored me with its depth and three dimensionality and was the closest thing to watching 3D I have seen here.
> 
> I think people trying to input my settings here just aren't realizing how intense it is to get "just right" and that literally one gamma point or setting being off a click or two can seriously change the image, depth and sharpness and real life look of what you're seeing. It is literally like it just "pops in" when you hit that sweet spot and your jaw drops, eyes pop out of your head and you say....._"Holy poop on a stick!!!!"_ like I just did last night when I hit HarperVision nirvana on the LS10500!



Makes perfect sense. And thanks again for helping us get the most of of the 5040. If it isn't too much trouble, are you able to post the lumens measured off the screen across the 11 point grey scale for your LS10500? I know that its not the same as the 5040, but since you don't have the 5040 anymore, getting the measurements from the LS10500 would be a good data point. The lumens would shed some light on how you are setting your curve to get that sweet spot you are talking about.


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> Oledurt's take on Harpervision.
> 
> Color Mode Digital Cinema
> Brightness 53 (please adjust this to your screen)
> Contrast 100
> Color Saturation 73
> Tint 50
> 
> Sharpness all 0
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> 
> [Customized]
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 48
> Gain G 61
> Gain B 34
> 
> Image Enhancement Off
> Super Resolution all 0
> Detail Enhancement all 0
> 
> Power Consumption High
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> Gamma (from left to right)
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28,-26,15,32
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> 
> R
> Hue 50 Saturation 23 Brightness 50
> G
> Hue 78 Saturation 8 Brightness 50
> B
> Hue 68 Saturation 30 Brightness 50
> C
> Hue 56 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> M
> Hue 76 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> Y
> Hue 44 Saturation 29 Brightness 50
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI Video Range Normal
> Color space BT.2020
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> No HD Fury, and all settings on the blu ray player at default.
> 
> The CMS was calibrated using HDR 1 tone mapping so I do not know how these translate to Harpervision, but to my eye watching various material it looks pretty good to me.
> 
> Best of luck.
> 
> Couple more screens of Unforgiven


 We 100% have a winner, oledurts harper vision is perfect, it is very natural, doesn't have the over saturated colors. They are both great pics and also keep in mind dave cms is at default.

Pics 

1st oledurt HV
2nd dave Harper with rgby at 50 and my gains and offsets calibrated


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> We 100% have a winner, oledurts harper vision is perfect, it is very natural, doesn't have the over saturated colors. They are both great pics and also keep in mind dave cms is at default.
> 
> Pics
> 
> 1st oledurt HV
> 2nd dave Harper with rgby at 50 and my gains and offsets calibrated


 no idea why pics are showing up as links.


----------



## jason_galaxy

Snoogleheimer said:


> Then, I picked up Planet Earth II from Best Buy while I was there today. I've been watching it for the past hour. It is BY FAR the finest example of what these PJs are capable of. WOW! So far, nothing comes close to it.


This!


----------



## Oledurt

robc1976 said:


> We 100% have a winner, oledurts harper vision is perfect, it is very natural, doesn't have the over saturated colors. They are both great pics and also keep in mind dave cms is at default.
> 
> 
> 
> Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 1st oledurt HV
> 
> 2nd dave Harper with rgby at 50 and my gains and offsets calibrated




Glad it turned out well for you. I think this is the way to go. Turns out Dave and I got this one pegged. Gotta love this hobby. All working together to find solutions for each other. 

Happy movie watching.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> Glad it turned out well for you. I think this is the way to go. Turns out Dave and I got this one pegged. Gotta love this hobby. All working together to find solutions for each other.
> 
> Happy movie watching.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 I greatly appreciate the time you both have sacrificed so we can enjoy these projectors.


----------



## panman40

It's probably been asked before but are you really noticing a huge improvement with 4K HDR over standard blu Ray ?. The Epson does a great job upscaling 1080p without any of the issues of a dark HDR image. 

Thoughts ?.


----------



## Azekecse

Oledurt said:


> Glad it turned out well for you. I think this is the way to go. Turns out Dave and I got this one pegged. Gotta love this hobby. All working together to find solutions for each other.
> 
> Happy movie watching.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks to both of you gentlemen, for your meticulous work, it is much appreciated. I can't wait to try this color integration later this afternoon.

Peace and blessings,


Azeke


----------



## Viche

robc1976 said:


> We 100% have a winner, oledurts harper vision is perfect, it is very natural, doesn't have the over saturated colors. They are both great pics and also keep in mind dave cms is at default.
> 
> Pics
> 
> 1st oledurt HV
> 2nd dave Harper with rgby at 50 and my gains and offsets calibrated


So you also applied all of oldurt's CMS settings he posted above? Aren't those tailored to his particular projector?


----------



## aaranddeeman

I am also curious to see what Art has comeup with. He said he will have it posted this week at projectorereviews.com, but there is no update so far.


----------



## Arizonaclimbing

robc1976 said:


> Just to give you guys a warning, Epson admitted to me they are seeing units going out with power supply failing.
> 
> They are sending me new unit and also paying for my calibrations I just had performed.




I just sent back a 6040 that shut off by itself and wouldn't turn back on. No status lights of any kind. Unplugging, holding power button... Nothing would get it to light up. 
Epson quickly sent me a refurbished unit after an email and phone call. 
New one arrived yesterday. Hooked it up and it was working just fine. A few hours of watching on the new unit and the same thing happened. 
I would think it might be in sleep mode but the lens door didn't close which leads me to believe it is a hardware failure. 





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Viche said:


> So you also applied all of oldurt's CMS settings he posted above? Aren't those tailored to his particular projector?




Yes, copying someone else's CMS settings is sort of like using someone else's measurements to have a shirt tailored. ; ) 

Even copying Daves gamma settings doesn't ensure it achieves the curve he set up on his unit. He has a high end screen, his own throw distance, equipment, room set up etc. 

This may be why Oledurt's calibrator said Daves settings were way off the EOTF curve. Because they probably were in Oledurt's set up. If instead Oledurt would have had Daves measurements for his gamma curve then his calibrator could have tried to match Daves. 

But copying settings in no way ensures an optimal picture. Dave has always said use his settings as a starting point. Problem is from there it becomes an exercise in eyeballing which I am not good at...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jeffstheater

*Epson 6040ub owner*

Just joined, have had my theater up and running for about 9 months. Hoping to optimize my settings on my projector, sound is amazing and I'm happy with the Atmos with 7.2.4 and have earth shaking bass with Sunfire Subrosa and True Signature mkII. Any advice is greatly appreciated, looking forward to dialing this all in! Jeff


Carada 120" screen
Samsung UBD-8500
Epson 6040ub
Denon AVR-X6300H
Sunfire Subrosa
Sunfire Signature True mkII
Polk Kirksaeter JBL PSB NHT
Monoprice active 25' HDMI


----------



## spirithockey79

Looking for some advice on calibration. I had a calibration back in March but the calibrator didn’t have much knowledge of the 5040 or HDR. I asked for a calibration for Rec 709 Blu-ray (which he did with Natural), a setting for stripping HDR (which he did with Dig Cinema), and a setting for HDR which he did with Bright Cinema using HDR 1. He didn’t do any custom gamma curves and the CMS for the Bright Cinema had many of the brightness or saturation settings at 100. Overall I think it was ok, but since then with Harpervision and Oledurt’s settings, I’ve been tweaking stuff. I purchased Ryan Masciola’s HDR patterns and have made some changes. Well, the calibrator forgot to save all of my settings so he’s willing to come out and redo the calibration at no charge. He also indicated he has more experience now with the 5040 and HDR. I think I need to keep settings for stripping HDR, HDR, and Rec 709. But also think I want an HDR setting with Dig Cinema, as well as a Harpervision-type setting. I had been using the calibration setting for strip HDR when trying out Harpervision since that used Dig Cinema and should have had accurate grayscale and CMS. Also, I have the Oppo 203 which has the strip HDR feature. So some questions:

1. Do the settings I’m asking for make sense?
2. For anyone familiar with the Oppo 203, any idea on how best to calibrate for stripping HDR? 
- Is it as simple as just using Dig Cinema for P3 but using Rec 709 test patterns? 
- Or is there such a thing as testing BT2020 without HDR?
3. Should I strongly encourage a custom gamma curve? At the first calibration I asked about and the response was that he wasn’t very experienced with custom curves for HDR. Not sure if that is a red flag or not.

I mentioned to him that I have Ryan’s test patterns and am hoping he does a bit of research to familiarize himself with it. Fingers crossed that this calibration comes out better! Interested in any feedback or suggestions and will absolutely share what the outcome is. FYI - I have a nearly pitch black dedicated theater room, 110” 2.35 1.2 gain white screen with short throw of about 11.5 ft.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

robc1976 said:


> We 100% have a winner, oledurts harper vision is perfect, it is very natural, doesn't have the over saturated colors. They are both great pics and also keep in mind dave cms is at default.
> 
> 
> 
> Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 1st oledurt HV
> 
> 2nd dave Harper with rgby at 50 and my gains and offsets calibrated




For the house/countryside pattern from R. Masciola, isn’t there more detail and color variation in the sky? Looks like a lot of blooming in the 1st pic with Oledurt’s settings - I don’t see any detail. With HV on the 2nd pic I see some detail and color variation but not much. Seems like when I ran the patterns there was more detail and variation.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

spirithockey79 said:


> For the house/countryside pattern from R. Masciola, isn’t there more detail and color variation in the sky? Looks like a lot of blooming in the 1st pic with Oledurt’s settings - I don’t see any detail. With HV on the 2nd pic I see some detail and color variation but not much. Seems like when I ran the patterns there was more detail and variation.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 its my phone, makes it look like its just white, there is tins of detail. Your correct.


----------



## Hal_M

4K Enhancement not working on 5040. Just purchased the Epson 5040UB. Set it up and noticed that while I had 4K Enhancement set to ON, frame interpolation was also still active. I had read that 4K Enhancement overrode that feature. So I went to the Projector Info section of the menu and it says 1080P. Called Epson and they didn't know why the 4K Enhancement didn't seem to be working. They said it should register here in the Projector Info menu. I tried 2 different Blu-ray players. Sony PS3 and a regular Sony Blu-ray player. I tried FINDING NEMO Blu and TREE OF LIFE Blu. Both sent a 1080P signal to the Epson, but there was no 4K Enhancement happening despite the projector being set to 4K Enhancement ON. 

Anyone have any ideas why this is happening? How do I know if 4K Enhancement is working? 

Thanks in advance. 

Hal


----------



## spirithockey79

robc1976 said:


> its my phone, makes it look like its just white, there is tins of detail. Your correct.




Gotcha, thx


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

spirithockey79 said:


> For the house/countryside pattern from R. Masciola, isn’t there more detail and color variation in the sky? Looks like a lot of blooming in the 1st pic with Oledurt’s settings - I don’t see any detail. With HV on the 2nd pic I see some detail and color variation but not much. Seems like when I ran the patterns there was more detail and variation.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




The phone camera makes it look like that. There is no clipping or blooming on the screen


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JamesVG81

So I'm on the fence on this projector. I have a 5040ube sitting in the box unopened in my theater. I already sold my 5030ube I have been using for the last 2 years. Right now I'm projector less. Reason I haven't opened it is because my friend can get me a JVC at cost and haven't decided between the Epson or the JVC. I have a 138inch , 2:35.1 elite AT screen. Currently have a Xbox one S as a player. Will upgrade if needed and a Marantz 6011 receiver. Also have a quality Monoprice 4k HDMI cable ran in the ceiling. All my Blu-ray are loaded on my HTPC and played through Kodi. My room has a black ceiling, black walls and darkish carpet with full light control. The 5030ube didn't seam quite bright enough for my screen. I know the Epson is a light cannon. From what I have read it seams the Epson beats the JVC in brightness , sharper image and color. The JVC rs420 just wins in contrast. I wasn't disappointed in the contrast on the 5030ube. So is it dumb to not just toss up the Epson 5040ube and call it a day? Thanks.. also whats, the best 4k player to match up with the Epson if I'm keeping it? Thanks


----------



## jwhn

spirithockey79 said:


> Looking for some advice on calibration. I had a calibration back in March but the calibrator didn’t have much knowledge of the 5040 or HDR. I asked for a calibration for Rec 709 Blu-ray (which he did with Natural), a setting for stripping HDR (which he did with Dig Cinema), and a setting for HDR which he did with Bright Cinema using HDR 1. He didn’t do any custom gamma curves and the CMS for the Bright Cinema had many of the brightness or saturation settings at 100. Overall I think it was ok, but since then with Harpervision and Oledurt’s settings, I’ve been tweaking stuff. I purchased Ryan Masciola’s HDR patterns and have made some changes. Well, the calibrator forgot to save all of my settings so he’s willing to come out and redo the calibration at no charge. He also indicated he has more experience now with the 5040 and HDR. I think I need to keep settings for stripping HDR, HDR, and Rec 709. But also think I want an HDR setting with Dig Cinema, as well as a Harpervision-type setting. I had been using the calibration setting for strip HDR when trying out Harpervision since that used Dig Cinema and should have had accurate grayscale and CMS. Also, I have the Oppo 203 which has the strip HDR feature. So some questions:
> 
> 1. Do the settings I’m asking for make sense?
> 2. For anyone familiar with the Oppo 203, any idea on how best to calibrate for stripping HDR?
> - Is it as simple as just using Dig Cinema for P3 but using Rec 709 test patterns?
> - Or is there such a thing as testing BT2020 without HDR?
> 3. Should I strongly encourage a custom gamma curve? At the first calibration I asked about and the response was that he wasn’t very experienced with custom curves for HDR. Not sure if that is a red flag or not.
> 
> I mentioned to him that I have Ryan’s test patterns and am hoping he does a bit of research to familiarize himself with it. Fingers crossed that this calibration comes out better! Interested in any feedback or suggestions and will absolutely share what the outcome is. FYI - I have a nearly pitch black dedicated theater room, 110” 2.35 1.2 gain white screen with short throw of about 11.5 ft.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I think you have a great opportunity to learn about how to optimize HDR "calibration" for the 5040UB. If you look in the calibration threads as well as some of the JVC threads there is more discussion about calibrating HDR for projectors. This forum tends to focus more on sharing settings vs. how to calibrate. Not a bad thing - just an observation. I consider myself a non-expert but someone who has scoured these forums trying to find answers to some of the questions you are asking. Having said that, here are a few thoughts about what you could discuss and try with your calibrator.

The main thing is to focus on measurements and not just settings. If you are trying to create a custom gamma curve for HDR for a projector, I think you ideally would be trying to follow a standard curve as best as possible. Here are the primary approaches I've found through my search:

1. Dolby Cinemas put out something like 102 nit max. Apparently, they use a 10x multiplier to scale down the ST2084 EOTF. (you can read about this on the Lightspace Website)

2. People who have done a ton of experimenting on HDR calibration for projectors in the JVC forums have suggested that a 10x multipler does not work well for home projectors. They have developed alternative approaches. When I ask them about my situation, someone provided me the following guidance: 

"What I can say is, we've found a multiplier of 6-8 seems to work well, depending on your peak white. Lower multipliers are brighter. In Calman we can enter the multiplier directly into the screen "profile" (I forget what it's actually called. If HCFR can't do that, here's what I'd do:

Measure 100% white, this will be your peak white value and your target for anything over 4000 nits (looks like anything over 90% per your numbers) I've found the difference in calibrating with a lower clipping point for 1100 nit titles insignificant.
Divide those targets by 6-8, for the targets up to about 50-60%, this will give you a reasonable match between what the software "expects" and what you actually measure
For the stuff between 60 and 90%, try to make a smooth curve in that area, you're going to have to play around a bit with the targets and figure out what looks best to you as far as retaining brightness vs leaving some contrast/saturation in the highlights.​
3. Dave has suggested that he tries to stretch that APL out to about 75-80% of the dynamic range and then creates a super fast rise after that to 100% for whites and specular highlights (all in SDR mode). I have not seen anything more specific than that to provide your calibrator guidance.

So your calibrator could:
1. Put in Dave's settings and measure the gamma curve. Getting the measurements is the important thing to see how it tracks vs. the EOTF
2. Try something that targets the 6-8 multiplier approach described above
3. Try any other approaches that maybe he knows about.

Then you could compare the results. I think it would be highly valuable to capture the measurements (not only the settings) of the different calibrations and for the one that resulted in the best picture. My hope is that in the future, when people come to this forum and ask how to optimize settings there will be a target gamma curve for them (and not just settings to copy).

This may be way too much to ask from your calibrator. If so, I completely understand. Just trying to help you get the most from your investment and further the knowledge base in this forum.

I would also let him know that some have suggested using 50%/50% patterns when calibrating colors against the BT2020 color space as that seems pretty important. 

Hope this helps and good luck.


----------



## spirithockey79

jwhn said:


> I think you have a great opportunity to learn about how to optimize HDR "calibration" for the 5040UB. If you look in the calibration threads as well as some of the JVC threads there is more discussion about calibrating HDR for projectors. This forum tends to focus more on sharing settings vs. how to calibrate. Not a bad thing - just an observation. I consider myself a non-expert but someone who has scoured these forums trying to find answers to some of the questions you are asking. Having said that, here are a few thoughts about what you could discuss and try with your calibrator.
> 
> 
> 
> The main thing is to focus on measurements and not just settings. If you are trying to create a custom gamma curve for HDR for a projector, I think you ideally would be trying to follow a standard curve as best as possible. Here are the primary approaches I've found through my search:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Dolby Cinemas put out something like 102 nit max. Apparently, they use a 10x multiplier to scale down the ST2084 EOTF. (you can read about this on the Lightspace Website)
> 
> 
> 
> 2. People who have done a ton of experimenting on HDR calibration for projectors in the JVC forums have suggested that a 10x multipler does not work well for home projectors. They have developed alternative approaches. When I ask them about my situation, someone provided me the following guidance:
> 
> 
> 
> "What I can say is, we've found a multiplier of 6-8 seems to work well, depending on your peak white. Lower multipliers are brighter. In Calman we can enter the multiplier directly into the screen "profile" (I forget what it's actually called. If HCFR can't do that, here's what I'd do:
> 
> 
> 
> Measure 100% white, this will be your peak white value and your target for anything over 4000 nits (looks like anything over 90% per your numbers) I've found the difference in calibrating with a lower clipping point for 1100 nit titles insignificant.
> 
> Divide those targets by 6-8, for the targets up to about 50-60%, this will give you a reasonable match between what the software "expects" and what you actually measure
> 
> For the stuff between 60 and 90%, try to make a smooth curve in that area, you're going to have to play around a bit with the targets and figure out what looks best to you as far as retaining brightness vs leaving some contrast/saturation in the highlights.
> ​
> 
> 
> 3. Dave has suggested that he tries to stretch that APL out to about 75-80% of the dynamic range and then creates a super fast rise after that to 100% for whites and specular highlights (all in SDR mode). I have not seen anything more specific than that to provide your calibrator guidance.
> 
> 
> 
> So your calibrator could:
> 
> 1. Put in Dave's settings and measure the gamma curve. Getting the measurements is the important thing to see how it tracks vs. the EOTF
> 
> 2. Try something that targets the 6-8 multiplier approach described above
> 
> 3. Try any other approaches that maybe he knows about.
> 
> 
> 
> Then you could compare the results. I think it would be highly valuable to capture the measurements (not only the settings) of the different calibrations and for the one that resulted in the best picture. My hope is that in the future, when people come to this forum and ask how to optimize settings there will be a target gamma curve for them (and not just settings to copy).
> 
> 
> 
> This may be way too much to ask from your calibrator. If so, I completely understand. Just trying to help you get the most from your investment and further the knowledge base in this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> I would also let him know that some have suggested using 50%/50% patterns when calibrating colors against the BT2020 color space as that seems pretty important.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps and good luck.




Really appreciate the detailed feedback. I’ll be sure to bring this stuff up.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Hal_M said:


> 4K Enhancement not working on 5040. Just purchased the Epson 5040UB. Set it up and noticed that while I had 4K Enhancement set to ON, frame interpolation was also still active. I had read that 4K Enhancement overrode that feature. So I went to the Projector Info section of the menu and it says 1080P. Called Epson and they didn't know why the 4K Enhancement didn't seem to be working. They said it should register here in the Projector Info menu. I tried 2 different Blu-ray players. Sony PS3 and a regular Sony Blu-ray player. I tried FINDING NEMO Blu and TREE OF LIFE Blu. Both sent a 1080P signal to the Epson, but there was no 4K Enhancement happening despite the projector being set to 4K Enhancement ON.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any ideas why this is happening? How do I know if 4K Enhancement is working?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Hal




Hal,

If I'm understanding correctly, you don't think 4k Enhancement is working because you're still allowed to use FI? If that's the case, I think that's happening because it's a 24hz source such as a blu Ray. I can almost guarantee that if you try 4k enhancement on while watching Netflix or cable, you will see that FI is no longer selectable as an option. Let me know what you find out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

Watched the UHD John Wick 2 tonight using harpervision settings , on the whole it was still to dark with many darker scenes having no detail in black. I enjoy the extra little bit of resoloution and exaggerated WCG of UHD/HDR but not at this expense of picture detail. 

HDR is clearly all about the gamma on this projector and getting it right, just by selecting gamma -2 ( normally unwatchable outside of harpervision HDR-SDR) gave a large boost to the lacking shadow detail but threw off other settings such as greyscale and colour accuracy.

I just don't think that the extra native resoloution and Atmos soundtrack with 4K UHD/HDR is worth the hassle, whenever I watch a 1080p BD in my calibrated natural mode I'm pleasently surprised by the image, I do have just a handful of UHD blu's that look great like Lucy, The shallows and Kingsmen but most are just to dark for a projector. ( IMO).


----------



## Hal_M

JewDaddy said:


> Hal,
> 
> If I'm understanding correctly, you don't think 4k Enhancement is working because you're still allowed to use FI? If that's the case, I think that's happening because it's a 24hz source such as a blu Ray. I can almost guarantee that if you try 4k enhancement on while watching Netflix or cable, you will see that FI is no longer selectable as an option. Let me know what you find out.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It is a Blu-ray. I don't have Netflix 4k yet. Can you explain to me how this works? Also, the Projector Info button in the menu says the signal is 1080P. The Epson customer support guy said it's supposed to tell you what the projector is outputting, not inputting. So it should be 4K, not 1080P. That said, I don't know if he's right. It just might be the input signal. Anyone know? When upscaling to 4K from 1080P, does your info - projector info read 1080 or 2160? 

Also, I can't tell much difference if any when switching between 4K on or off. It's certainly not dramatic enough for my eyes to know if there's a difference for sure. The 5 Presets do change the image, though.


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> Glad it turned out well for you. I think this is the way to go. Turns out Dave and I got this one pegged. Gotta love this hobby. All working together to find solutions for each other.
> 
> Happy movie watching.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Totally agree! I can't tell you how glad I am that you tried it again with your calibrated settings since I was stupid and didn't get my final numbers for CMS and greyscale! 




jwhn said:


> Makes perfect sense. And thanks again for helping us get the most of of the 5040. If it isn't too much trouble, are you able to post the lumens measured off the screen across the 11 point grey scale for your LS10500? I know that its not the same as the 5040, but since you don't have the 5040 anymore, getting the measurements from the LS10500 would be a good data point. The lumens would shed some light on how you are setting your curve to get that sweet spot you are talking about.



That's a great idea! I'm hoping to calibrate it again this weekend so I'll do that!



robc1976 said:


> Dave, what is your technique for adjusting sharpness/focus?. I am always messing with this lol! My calibrator said put text on the screen and pause it, get real close to screen and adjust until no fuzz around letters?
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I could adjust your gamma curve by eye but that is literally impossible I am guessing. I did that for 1080 and got it prefect but nothing like your curve.



The best way to do optical sharpness with eShift projectors is to turn off 4K Enhancement and input a 1080p signal, then go up to the screen as you said and adjust it to see the best delineated pixels as possible. 

You may be able to do my gamma by eye if you know what you're looking for. See below. 



panman40 said:


> Watched the UHD John Wick 2 tonight using harpervision settings , on the whole it was still to dark with many darker scenes having no detail in black. I enjoy the extra little bit of resoloution and exaggerated WCG of UHD/HDR but not at this expense of picture detail.
> 
> 
> 
> HDR is clearly all about the gamma on this projector and getting it right, just by selecting gamma -2 ( normally unwatchable outside of harpervision HDR-SDR) gave a large boost to the lacking shadow detail but threw off other settings such as greyscale and colour accuracy.
> 
> 
> 
> I just don't think that the extra native resoloution and Atmos soundtrack with 4K UHD/HDR is worth the hassle, whenever I watch a 1080p BD in my calibrated natural mode I'm pleasently surprised by the image, I do have just a handful of UHD blu's that look great like Lucy, The shallows and Kingsmen but most are just to dark for a projector. ( IMO).



Did you use any patterns to set the black levels properly? From your description of what you're seeing, it sounds like something is really off. 




robc1976 said:


> We 100% have a winner, oledurts harper vision is perfect, it is very natural, doesn't have the over saturated colors. They are both great pics and also keep in mind dave cms is at default.
> 
> 
> 
> Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 1st oledurt HV
> 
> 2nd dave Harper with rgby at 50 and my gains and offsets calibrated



Just remember though that mine also include CMS and greyscale calibrated settings. I just didn't remember to snap photos of the menus before I boxed it up and shipped it to its new owner when I finally got done at almost 3am and was delirious! 




jwhn said:


> I think you have a great opportunity to learn about how to optimize HDR "calibration" for the 5040UB. If you look in the calibration threads as well as some of the JVC threads there is more discussion about calibrating HDR for projectors. This forum tends to focus more on sharing settings vs. how to calibrate. Not a bad thing - just an observation. I consider myself a non-expert but someone who has scoured these forums trying to find answers to some of the questions you are asking. Having said that, here are a few thoughts about what you could discuss and try with your calibrator.
> 
> 
> 
> The main thing is to focus on measurements and not just settings. If you are trying to create a custom gamma curve for HDR for a projector, I think you ideally would be trying to follow a standard curve as best as possible. Here are the primary approaches I've found through my search:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Dolby Cinemas put out something like 102 nit max. Apparently, they use a 10x multiplier to scale down the ST2084 EOTF. (you can read about this on the Lightspace Website)
> 
> 
> 
> 2. People who have done a ton of experimenting on HDR calibration for projectors in the JVC forums have suggested that a 10x multipler does not work well for home projectors. They have developed alternative approaches. When I ask them about my situation, someone provided me the following guidance:
> 
> 
> 
> "What I can say is, we've found a multiplier of 6-8 seems to work well, depending on your peak white. Lower multipliers are brighter. In Calman we can enter the multiplier directly into the screen "profile" (I forget what it's actually called. If HCFR can't do that, here's what I'd do:
> 
> 
> 
> Measure 100% white, this will be your peak white value and your target for anything over 4000 nits (looks like anything over 90% per your numbers) I've found the difference in calibrating with a lower clipping point for 1100 nit titles insignificant.
> 
> Divide those targets by 6-8, for the targets up to about 50-60%, this will give you a reasonable match between what the software "expects" and what you actually measure
> 
> For the stuff between 60 and 90%, try to make a smooth curve in that area, you're going to have to play around a bit with the targets and figure out what looks best to you as far as retaining brightness vs leaving some contrast/saturation in the highlights.
> ​
> 
> 
> 3. Dave has suggested that he tries to stretch that APL out to about 75-80% of the dynamic range and then creates a super fast rise after that to 100% for whites and specular highlights (all in SDR mode). I have not seen anything more specific than that to provide your calibrator guidance.
> 
> 
> 
> So your calibrator could:
> 
> 1. Put in Dave's settings and measure the gamma curve. Getting the measurements is the important thing to see how it tracks vs. the EOTF
> 
> 2. Try something that targets the 6-8 multiplier approach described above
> 
> 3. Try any other approaches that maybe he knows about.
> 
> 
> 
> Then you could compare the results. I think it would be highly valuable to capture the measurements (not only the settings) of the different calibrations and for the one that resulted in the best picture. My hope is that in the future, when people come to this forum and ask how to optimize settings there will be a target gamma curve for them (and not just settings to copy).
> 
> 
> 
> This may be way too much to ask from your calibrator. If so, I completely understand. Just trying to help you get the most from your investment and further the knowledge base in this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> I would also let him know that some have suggested using 50%/50% patterns when calibrating colors against the BT2020 color space as that seems pretty important.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps and good luck.



Awesome info!

To clarify my stuff, I guess what I'm saying is that it goes slowly out of blacks and stretches out. To maybe more like 50-60%, then a sharp but steady rise to the 75-80% mark and then sharply up to peak 100% for the highlights. Pretty much a lot the same concept as the JVCs, but with a more limited custom gamma range of only 9 points on the Epson. You can see it by actually looking at my curve. 

Also you MUST remember that mine won't measure or track the same as the JVCs because I am switching to SDR mode which then uses the old gamma curve as it's baseline, which I then have to tailor to work with an HDR incoming signal. This is totally different than the JVCs. 

This is why I stress that I start with calibrated numbers and settings, but then I have to use my artistic side and many years of experience to produce what is in the end an utterly amazing picture! Much of it actually is "by eye" (and experience and using test patterns).


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> To clarify my stuff, I guess what I'm saying is that it goes slowly out of blacks and stretches out. To maybe more like 50-60%, then a sharp but steady rise to the 75-80% mark and then sharply up to peak 100% for the highlights. Pretty much a lot the same concept as the JVCs, but with a more limited custom gamma range of only 9 points on the Epson. You can see it by actually looking at my curve.
> 
> Also you MUST remember that mine won't measure or track the same as the JVCs because I am switching to SDR mode which then uses the old gamma curve as it's baseline, which I then have to tailor to work with an HDR incoming signal. This is totally different than the JVCs.
> 
> This is why I stress that I start with calibrated numbers and settings, but then I have to use my artistic side and many years of experience to produce what is in the end an utterly amazing picture! Much of it actually is "by eye" (and experience and using test patterns).


Okay, got it. This helps a lot. So you start with a 2.4 gamma curve or something like that and then adjust from there. Makes sense since you are using the SDR setting. I do notice that now that I've used a meter a bit to set colors that my eye is getting a little better, but still not good enough to rely on alone.

Maybe when you have a little time you could provide some tips around what to look for. Kind of like Jeff Meier did on his site using Casino Royale as an example. https://www.homecinemaguru.com/checking-the-picture-quality-of-your-display/

I found that information helpful.

Maybe you could take the 4 example HDR images from Ryan's disk or specific scenes from the Revenant and explain what to look for to get that extra special picture quality from your settings. That would be truly appreciated.


----------



## panman40

@ Dave,

You could be right but I triple checked all settings to make certain they were correct, the only thing I don't use is high lamp as its just to noisy.

Yep I always set brightness with either a disc or the R Masciola on USB for HDR.

I just wonder if maybe it's in the source as in frustration at one point when the wife left the room I cranked brightness up real high, it washed the image right out as expected but didn't reveal much more detail in black areas like Wicks jacket etc.

The few brighter sections of the film looked OK. I might experiment with your base gamma, say raise each point a couple notches at a time but leave point 8 and 9 alone.


----------



## Mikesp1

panman40 said:


> @ Dave,
> 
> You could be right but I triple checked all settings to make certain they were correct, the only thing I don't use is high lamp as its just to noisy.
> 
> Yep I always set brightness with either a disc or the R Masciola on USB for HDR.
> 
> I just wonder if maybe it's in the source as in frustration at one point when the wife left the room I cranked brightness up real high, it washed the image right out as expected but didn't reveal much more detail in black areas like Wicks jacket etc.
> 
> The few brighter sections of the film looked OK. I might experiment with your base gamma, say raise each point a couple notches at a time but leave point 8 and 9 alone.


I am using Dave's settings like you in medium lamp mode for the same reasons.
Let me know what you come on with your gamma and cms settings. Thanks!


----------



## JewDaddy

Hal_M said:


> It is a Blu-ray. I don't have Netflix 4k yet. Can you explain to me how this works? Also, the Projector Info button in the menu says the signal is 1080P. The Epson customer support guy said it's supposed to tell you what the projector is outputting, not inputting. So it should be 4K, not 1080P. That said, I don't know if he's right. It just might be the input signal. Anyone know? When upscaling to 4K from 1080P, does your info - projector info read 1080 or 2160?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I can't tell much difference if any when switching between 4K on or off. It's certainly not dramatic enough for my eyes to know if there's a difference for sure. The 5 Presets do change the image, though.




I will do my best to explain but I am by no means an expert on this projector like some of the others 

What you're describing is taking a 1080p signal and adding the 4K enhancement feature to the picture. This is not displaying in 4K. It's adding a post processing 4K effect to a 1080p source. When you do this, as long as you're watching a 24hz source, you can turn on the 4K enhancement option and have FI at the same time. Your blu Ray player is configured to play a 1080p blu Ray at 24hz so you're still able to have FI if you turn on 4K enhancement. If you tried to watch a different 1080p source such as Netflix or cable and turn on 4k enhancement, FI will be disabled. 

So that's one of the ways to get a simulated type 4k signal to output through your projector. The next two ways to get a better representation of a 4K output picture is having a 4K blu Ray player. On any 4K player you can set your output resolution to Auto, which will do one of two things. Allow you to watch a 4K UHD Blu Ray in native (e-shift) 4K, or upscale a regular 1080p blu-Ray to 4K. Anytime you do either one of these options, the projector will show that you're outputting 4K on the info screen. 

Obviously watching a regular blu Ray upscaled to 4K is not near as good as watching a true 4K movie in 4K. So let's say you put in a 1080p blu Ray and have your UHD Blu Ray player set to output all movies to 4K resolution. If you do this, not only will the 4K enhancement option be greyed out, but so will FI. Same thing if you watch a UHD blu Ray that's being output already by the player to 4K. No more 4K enhancement and no more FI. 

4K enhancement option only works when watching a source that's being output to the projector in 1080p. You're now giving the epson a chance to add a post processing effect to the picture which tries to simulate 4K. When watching a source being output in 4K whether it's a native 4k source or not, the 4K enhancement option goes away and so does FI. 

And to answer your question directly, when you turn the 4K enhancement option on, the projector info will still show 1080p because technically, it's only outputting a 1080p signal which now has the 4K enhancement post processing option on. To truly watch 4K you need to watch either a UHD 4K movie or stream something in 4K like on Netflix or Amazon. Hope this makes sense. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

JamesVG81 said:


> The 5030ube didn't seam quite bright enough for my screen. I know the Epson is a light cannon. From what I have read it seams the Epson beats the JVC in brightness , sharper image and color. The JVC rs420 just wins in contrast. I wasn't disappointed in the contrast on the 5030ube. So is it dumb to not just toss up the Epson 5040ube and call it a day? Thanks.. also whats, the best 4k player to match up with the Epson if I'm keeping it? Thanks


you may check this out:
http://www.projectorreviews.com/com...a-5040ub-vs-jvc-dla-rs400u-comparison-review/
(this is previous JVC model but they are not big difference mainly +100 more lumens in 420 vs 400 and reduced lag for games)

It looks you have answered yourself if contrast is not top priority but brightness. 5040 is big update from 5030 in many fields. Both PJs are great. However, from your post it seems you need more brightness. 5040 has ~500 lumens light more when calibrated vs JVC. JVC doesn't have the limitation which Epson has in HDMi bandwidth 18gbs in JVC vs 10 in Epson (resulting - if you are a gamer - you won't be able to play HDR and 4K same time)

I had a chance to see them in dedicated room (spent there half a day watched various blu rays/UHD and 3d movies) and sharpness, brightness won me over jvc. Lower contrast didn't bother me on Epson.
If you are looking for best black level performance then JVC s the way to go. On the other side black levels on Epson in dedicated room are decent (better than on 5030) and dynamic contrast with iris reaching 35000 : 1 is not disappointing either.


----------



## Des511

So Dave, am I to believe that we are not seeing the full potential of the Harpervision settings due to the lack of your CMS settings?


----------



## Hal_M

JewDaddy said:


> I will do my best to explain but I am by no means an expert on this projector like some of the others
> 
> What you're describing is taking a 1080p signal and adding the 4K enhancement feature to the picture. This is not displaying in 4K. It's adding a post processing 4K effect to a 1080p source. When you do this, as long as you're watching a 24hz source, you can turn on the 4K enhancement option and have FI at the same time. Your blu Ray player is configured to play a 1080p blu Ray at 24hz so you're still able to have FI if you turn on 4K enhancement. If you tried to watch a different 1080p source such as Netflix or cable and turn on 4k enhancement, FI will be disabled.
> 
> So that's one of the ways to get a simulated type 4k signal to output through your projector. The next two ways to get a better representation of a 4K output picture is having a 4K blu Ray player. On any 4K player you can set your output resolution to Auto, which will do one of two things. Allow you to watch a 4K UHD Blu Ray in native (e-shift) 4K, or upscale a regular 1080p blu-Ray to 4K. Anytime you do either one of these options, the projector will show that you're outputting 4K on the info screen.
> 
> Obviously watching a regular blu Ray upscaled to 4K is not near as good as watching a true 4K movie in 4K. So let's say you put in a 1080p blu Ray and have your UHD Blu Ray player set to output all movies to 4K resolution. If you do this, not only will the 4K enhancement option be greyed out, but so will FI. Same thing if you watch a UHD blu Ray that's being output already by the player to 4K. No more 4K enhancement and no more FI.
> 
> 4K enhancement option only works when watching a source that's being output to the projector in 1080p. You're now giving the epson a chance to add a post processing effect to the picture which tries to simulate 4K. When watching a source being output in 4K whether it's a native 4k source or not, the 4K enhancement option goes away and so does FI.
> 
> And to answer your question directly, when you turn the 4K enhancement option on, the projector info will still show 1080p because technically, it's only outputting a 1080p signal which now has the 4K enhancement post processing option on. To truly watch 4K you need to watch either a UHD 4K movie or stream something in 4K like on Netflix or Amazon. Hope this makes sense.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks so much for this. It's funny, cause I asked the Epson support rep about the Projector Info stating 1080P and he insisted that it should state the 4K upscale not 1080P. But that seemed suspicious to me and what you're saying makes much more sense. It's a 1080P signal no matter what. 4K enhancement or not. 

So I'm assuming my Epson is working fine, then. Funny that I didn't see any info on the 24hz listed anywhere. That's a good thing to know since the projector responds differently. 

I'll be getting a Roku 4k box and a 4K blu-ray player. Since the Epson doesn't do actual 4K, what setting should i have the player on to get the most out of watching 4K content on the Epson? I'm still a little confused there. How does the Epson process 4K input? 

Also, would love any opinions on Frame Interpolation. Usually I set this to off on any TV as it usually ends up with the soap opera effect which is unwatchable. The Epson, however, offers low, medium, and high options and I've read on these forums that using the low setting is sometimes preferable to turning it off altogether. Assuming that's a taste thing, but would love to hear more thoughts on this if anyone has them. 

Also, the 5 enhancement presets on the 5040. Assuming that's also a preference option. But would also love to hear more thoughts on this. Pros and cons of these different settings. If anyone has an opinion. 

Thanks for taking the time to answer the earlier questions, JewDaddy. You've been a huge help. Much appreciated.


----------



## robc1976

Des511 said:


> So Dave, am I to believe that we are not seeing the full potential of the Harpervision settings due to the lack of your CMS settings?


 oledurt posted harper visionb settings that have CMS.


----------



## Des511

robc1976 said:


> Des511 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So Dave, am I to believe that we are not seeing the full potential of the Harpervision settings due to the lack of your CMS settings?
> 
> 
> 
> oledurt posted harper visionb settings that have CMS.
Click to expand...

I saw that and tried them but they seemed a little duller that Harpervision with standard CMS settings. What I was referring to was Dave's own CMS settings.


----------



## Mikesp1

Des511 said:


> I saw that and tried them but they seemed a little duller that Harpervision with standard CMS settings. What I was referring to was Dave's own CMS settings.



+1 I also tried them and came to the same conclusion as you.


----------



## Dave Harper

Des511 said:


> So Dave, am I to believe that we are not seeing the full potential of the Harpervision settings due to the lack of your CMS settings?



Oledurt has some. Use those as a baseline and tweak in your environment. Does anyone else have any meters and a 5040?




jwhn said:


> Okay, got it. This helps a lot. So you start with a 2.4 gamma curve or something like that and then adjust from there. Makes sense since you are using the SDR setting. I do notice that now that I've used a meter a bit to set colors that my eye is getting a little better, but still not good enough to rely on alone.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe when you have a little time you could provide some tips around what to look for. Kind of like Jeff Meier did on his site using Casino Royale as an example. https://www.homecinemaguru.com/checking-the-picture-quality-of-your-display/
> 
> 
> 
> I found that information helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you could take the 4 example HDR images from Ryan's disk or specific scenes from the Revenant and explain what to look for to get that extra special picture quality from your settings. That would be truly appreciated.



That's great info thanks for the link. My only problem is my #1 enemy.....time! It definitely won't be before the end of next week and possibly even for a month as I may be heading out for various reasons for that long. 

He does touch on the gist of what I'm saying. You can't in my opinion setup a great looking display by patterns alone. They interact in different ways on different displays in different environments. You really must take the time after using patterns to watch known high quality sources and see the results and do a few tweaks.


----------



## JewDaddy

Hal_M said:


> Thanks so much for this. It's funny, cause I asked the Epson support rep about the Projector Info stating 1080P and he insisted that it should state the 4K upscale not 1080P. But that seemed suspicious to me and what you're saying makes much more sense. It's a 1080P signal no matter what. 4K enhancement or not.
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm assuming my Epson is working fine, then. Funny that I didn't see any info on the 24hz listed anywhere. That's a good thing to know since the projector responds differently.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be getting a Roku 4k box and a 4K blu-ray player. Since the Epson doesn't do actual 4K, what setting should i have the player on to get the most out of watching 4K content on the Epson? I'm still a little confused there. How does the Epson process 4K input?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, would love any opinions on Frame Interpolation. Usually I set this to off on any TV as it usually ends up with the soap opera effect which is unwatchable. The Epson, however, offers low, medium, and high options and I've read on these forums that using the low setting is sometimes preferable to turning it off altogether. Assuming that's a taste thing, but would love to hear more thoughts on this if anyone has them.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the 5 enhancement presets on the 5040. Assuming that's also a preference option. But would also love to hear more thoughts on this. Pros and cons of these different settings. If anyone has an opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to answer the earlier questions, JewDaddy. You've been a huge help. Much appreciated.




You're very welcome my friend. Glad to help 

So on your ROKU and 4k blu Ray player, or actually anything for that matter, set the resolution to 4K. And if you don't mind me making a recommendation for a 4K player, I would recommend the Panasonic UB900 which is what I have. I started with the Samsung KS8500 and then the Philips 4K player and then went with the Panasonic. The main reason I went with the Panasonic is for some reason that I can't explain, the 3D is brighter and shows almost zero crosstalk. As far as playing blu rays and 4K discs they were all pretty similar. One may have been faster at loading discs than the other but I never noticed. However, 3D performance is outstanding with the Panasonic. Not sure if 3D is your thing but if it is, spend a little extra to get the Panasonic. 

Ok, back on track now. Lol. So for me, I LOVE FRAME INTERPOLATION!!!! I have no problem screaming it from the rooftops. Yes it gives Video the so called dreaded "soap opera effect" but I love the smooth camera pans and smooth motion overall. Like you mentioned, there are different levels of the effect you can choose from. I always go with high but I feel like medium is a good balance. Low if you want just a hint of extra smoothing during camera pans. 

That's easily the biggest disappointment for me with the epson 5040. It kills me that you can't use FI with a 4K source. Doesn't matter if it's upscaled 4K or native 4K. Doesn't work. As I mentioned before, you can get the 4K enhancement to work with a 1080p source but only if it's a blu Ray since it's 24hz. 

I'll breakdown how I watch movies. If it's a standard blu-Ray, I prefer to set the resolution output of my 4k Panasonic to 1080p because I want FI. If you keep your 4K player set to auto resolution, it will force the projector to display in 4K even though it's upscaled, and completely take away any chance of you being able to enable FI. For me, watching a standard blu Ray upscaled to 4K is not worth losing FI. There's a very minimal difference in watching 1080p with 4K enhancement and FI then just watching upscaled 4K with no FI. The tradeoff just isn't worth it to me. Now, watching an actual 4K UHD movie whether on blu Ray or streamed, it is worth it to lose FI because I find the extra bump in resolution noticeable. So at the end of the day, I watch 1080p blu rays in 1080p not upscaled to 4K by the player and just turning on 4K enhancement with FI on high. A true UHD movie I make sure the resolution is set back to auto so I can watch in 4k. I would suggest that once you decide on a player and get a couple 4K movies, try them out and see what you think. 

As far as how his projector is displaying 4K with e shift, I still don't quite understand that. Lol. I'll have to leave that with some of the other experts. All I can say is, when you watch a native 4k source on this projector in 4K, you will see a difference. Depending on the content, sometimes more and sometimes less. 

Lastly, the different presets for the detail enhancements, I use preset 2. It adds more sharpness to the picture so just make sure you're not adding too much sharpness. Pause a movie scene and try them out and see how it changes the look. I do suggest keeping your regular sharpness level no higher than 5 and tinkering around with the enhancement presets. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

JewDaddy said:


> I will do my best to explain but I am by no means an expert on this projector like some of the others
> 
> What you're describing is taking a 1080p signal and adding the 4K enhancement feature to the picture. This is not displaying in 4K. It's adding a post processing 4K effect to a 1080p source. When you do this, as long as you're watching a 24hz source, you can turn on the 4K enhancement option and have FI at the same time. Your blu Ray player is configured to play a 1080p blu Ray at 24hz so you're still able to have FI if you turn on 4K enhancement. If you tried to watch a different 1080p source such as Netflix or cable and turn on 4k enhancement, FI will be disabled.
> 
> So that's one of the ways to get a simulated type 4k signal to output through your projector. The next two ways to get a better representation of a 4K output picture is having a 4K blu Ray player. On any 4K player you can set your output resolution to Auto, which will do one of two things. Allow you to watch a 4K UHD Blu Ray in native (e-shift) 4K, or upscale a regular 1080p blu-Ray to 4K. Anytime you do either one of these options, the projector will show that you're outputting 4K on the info screen.
> 
> Obviously watching a regular blu Ray upscaled to 4K is not near as good as watching a true 4K movie in 4K. So let's say you put in a 1080p blu Ray and have your UHD Blu Ray player set to output all movies to 4K resolution. If you do this, not only will the 4K enhancement option be greyed out, but so will FI. Same thing if you watch a UHD blu Ray that's being output already by the player to 4K. No more 4K enhancement and no more FI.
> 
> 4K enhancement option only works when watching a source that's being output to the projector in 1080p. You're now giving the epson a chance to add a post processing effect to the picture which tries to simulate 4K. When watching a source being output in 4K whether it's a native 4k source or not, the 4K enhancement option goes away and so does FI.
> 
> And to answer your question directly, when you turn the 4K enhancement option on, the projector info will still show 1080p because technically, it's only outputting a 1080p signal which now has the 4K enhancement post processing option on. To truly watch 4K you need to watch either a UHD 4K movie or stream something in 4K like on Netflix or Amazon. Hope this makes sense.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



This was very insightful.

Although I thought that even with a 4K disk, it still goes down to 1080P and then back up to eshift 4K.
But you're saying if I have the option of a Blu Ray or 4K of the same movie on this 5040UBE, the 4K would have a better picture?
By how much?
Since the 4K enhancement on this from a BR is AMAZING!

And another question, think this has been asked by a few before and not sure of the was an official answer. 
Between the Xbox One S and the PS4 (non pro), does anyone know which one shows a better picture playing Blu Rays?

Thanks


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Disc 2 now playing. What a wonderful documentary.


----------



## Hal_M

JewDaddy said:


> You're very welcome my friend. Glad to help
> 
> So on your ROKU and 4k blu Ray player, or actually anything for that matter, set the resolution to 4K. And if you don't mind me making a recommendation for a 4K player, I would recommend the Panasonic UB900 which is what I have. I started with the Samsung KS8500 and then the Philips 4K player and then went with the Panasonic. The main reason I went with the Panasonic is for some reason that I can't explain, the 3D is brighter and shows almost zero crosstalk. As far as playing blu rays and 4K discs they were all pretty similar. One may have been faster at loading discs than the other but I never noticed. However, 3D performance is outstanding with the Panasonic. Not sure if 3D is your thing but if it is, spend a little extra to get the Panasonic.
> 
> Ok, back on track now. Lol. So for me, I LOVE FRAME INTERPOLATION!!!! I have no problem screaming it from the rooftops. Yes it gives Video the so called dreaded "soap opera effect" but I love the smooth camera pans and smooth motion overall. Like you mentioned, there are different levels of the effect you can choose from. I always go with high but I feel like medium is a good balance. Low if you want just a hint of extra smoothing during camera pans.
> 
> That's easily the biggest disappointment for me with the epson 5040. It kills me that you can't use FI with a 4K source. Doesn't matter if it's upscaled 4K or native 4K. Doesn't work. As I mentioned before, you can get the 4K enhancement to work with a 1080p source but only if it's a blu Ray since it's 24hz.
> 
> I'll breakdown how I watch movies. If it's a standard blu-Ray, I prefer to set the resolution output of my 4k Panasonic to 1080p because I want FI. If you keep your 4K player set to auto resolution, it will force the projector to display in 4K even though it's upscaled, and completely take away any chance of you being able to enable FI. For me, watching a standard blu Ray upscaled to 4K is not worth losing FI. There's a very minimal difference in watching 1080p with 4K enhancement and FI then just watching upscaled 4K with no FI. The tradeoff just isn't worth it to me. Now, watching an actual 4K UHD movie whether on blu Ray or streamed, it is worth it to lose FI because I find the extra bump in resolution noticeable. So at the end of the day, I watch 1080p blu rays in 1080p not upscaled to 4K by the player and just turning on 4K enhancement with FI on high. A true UHD movie I make sure the resolution is set back to auto so I can watch in 4k. I would suggest that once you decide on a player and get a couple 4K movies, try them out and see what you think.
> 
> As far as how his projector is displaying 4K with e shift, I still don't quite understand that. Lol. I'll have to leave that with some of the other experts. All I can say is, when you watch a native 4k source on this projector in 4K, you will see a difference. Depending on the content, sometimes more and sometimes less.
> 
> Lastly, the different presets for the detail enhancements, I use preset 2. It adds more sharpness to the picture so just make sure you're not adding too much sharpness. Pause a movie scene and try them out and see how it changes the look. I do suggest keeping your regular sharpness level no higher than 5 and tinkering around with the enhancement presets. Good luck!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks again. Yeah, I'm afraid I can't do the soap opera thing with film, but I do kinda like the look when FI is set to low. So I'm glad I can do that with 1080p blu-rays. I'll probably take your advice on the Panny as well. Been reading different reviews, but hadn't come to a decision yet. Probably between that and an Oppo. I do like 3D so that does make a difference for me. Thanks for all!


----------



## JewDaddy

sddp said:


> This was very insightful.
> 
> 
> 
> Although I thought that even with a 4K disk, it still goes down to 1080P and then back up to eshift 4K.
> 
> But you're saying if I have the option of a Blu Ray or 4K of the same movie on this 5040UBE, the 4K would have a better picture?
> 
> By how much?
> 
> Since the 4K enhancement on this from a BR is AMAZING!
> 
> 
> 
> And another question, think this has been asked by a few before and not sure of the was an official answer.
> 
> Between the Xbox One S and the PS4 (non pro), does anyone know which one shows a better picture playing Blu Rays?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks




See, that's the thing, lol, I don't know that exactly. I really don't know how e shift works. Going down to 1080p and then back up to a faux 4k resolution might be exactly how it works. I just know that a true 1080p source and a true 4k source will look different. When watching a true UHD Blu Ray, the resolution, sharpness and clarity look better than a standard blu-Ray. And that includes a 1080p source with 4k enhancement. Not to mention, with a true 4K blu Ray, you also get the added benefit of HDR. 

I have a PS4 pro but not an Xbox One S. Blu rays look great on the pro but it doesn't support UHD movies and the One S does. So there's always that to think about....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

JewDaddy said:


> See, that's the thing, lol, I don't know that exactly. I really don't know how e shift works. Going down to 1080p and then back up to a faux 4k resolution might be exactly how it works. I just know that a true 1080p source and a true 4k source will look different. When watching a true UHD Blu Ray, the resolution, sharpness and clarity look better than a standard blu-Ray. And that includes a 1080p source with 4k enhancement. Not to mention, with a true 4K blu Ray, you also get the added benefit of HDR.
> 
> I have a PS4 pro but not an Xbox One S. Blu rays look great on the pro but it doesn't support UHD movies and the One S does. So there's always that to think about....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Uh, no, that's not how it works. It's been explained in this forum.


----------



## robc1976

Mikesp1 said:


> +1 I also tried them and came to the same conclusion as you.


 they are a bit muted I agree but still good. Dave's has pop. I go between the 2. I messed around with Dave's gamma for hours today and gotv great results with just a click or 2 on some points. Way more detail for sure.

Gamma

0
-13
-25
-27
-27
-28
-27
15
32


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> Oledurt's take on Harpervision.
> 
> Color Mode Digital Cinema
> Brightness 53 (please adjust this to your screen)
> Contrast 100
> Color Saturation 73
> Tint 50
> 
> Sharpness all 0
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> 
> [Customized]
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 48
> Gain G 61
> Gain B 34
> 
> Image Enhancement Off
> Super Resolution all 0
> Detail Enhancement all 0
> 
> Power Consumption High
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> Gamma (from left to right)
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28,-26,15,32
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> 
> R
> Hue 50 Saturation 23 Brightness 50
> G
> Hue 78 Saturation 8 Brightness 50
> B
> Hue 68 Saturation 30 Brightness 50
> C
> Hue 56 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> M
> Hue 76 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> Y
> Hue 44 Saturation 29 Brightness 50
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI Video Range Normal
> Color space BT.2020
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> No HD Fury, and all settings on the blu ray player at default.
> 
> The CMS was calibrated using HDR 1 tone mapping so I do not know how these translate to Harpervision, but to my eye watching various material it looks pretty good to me.
> 
> Best of luck.
> 
> Couple more screens of Unforgiven


Oledurt, what is your reasoning for turing super resolution, detail enhancement, sharpness all to 0? Does it hurt image?


----------



## Dave Harper

JewDaddy said:


> See, that's the thing, lol, I don't know that exactly. I really don't know how e shift works. Going down to 1080p and then back up to a faux 4k resolution might be exactly how it works. I just know that a true 1080p source and a true 4k source will look different. When watching a true UHD Blu Ray, the resolution, sharpness and clarity look better than a standard blu-Ray. And that includes a 1080p source with 4k enhancement. Not to mention, with a true 4K blu Ray, you also get the added benefit of HDR.
> 
> I have a PS4 pro but not an Xbox One S. Blu rays look great on the pro but it doesn't support UHD movies and the One S does. So there's always that to think about....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk






sddp said:


> This was very insightful.
> 
> 
> 
> Although I thought that even with a 4K disk, it still goes down to 1080P and then back up to eshift 4K.
> 
> But you're saying if I have the option of a Blu Ray or 4K of the same movie on this 5040UBE, the 4K would have a better picture?
> 
> By how much?
> 
> Since the 4K enhancement on this from a BR is AMAZING!
> 
> 
> 
> And another question, think this has been asked by a few before and not sure of the was an official answer.
> 
> Between the Xbox One S and the PS4 (non pro), does anyone know which one shows a better picture playing Blu Rays?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks



If you send a native 4K source into the projector with eShift, be it the Epsons or the JVCs (or the new XPR DLPs with a slightly higher resolution), the 4K signal is sent to a processor that splits the 2160p image into two discrete sub frames of 1080p. They're interpolated properly, then each is flashed quickly at 120Hz, with the second subframe being shifted up and over by half pixel using an optical actuator glass/lens between the imager and lens. When these subframes merge in our eyes and brains they create a pseudo 4K composite image based on the original 4K image. This is done by human persistence of vision, similar to how interlacing works with a CRT painting the odd TV lines, and then the even ones sequentially.


----------



## JewDaddy

Dave Harper said:


> If you send a native 4K source into the projector with eShift, be it the Epsons or the JVCs (or the new XPR DLPs with a slightly higher resolution), the 4K signal is sent to a processor that splits the 2160p image into two discrete sub frames of 1080p. They're interpolated properly, then each is flashed quickly at 120Hz, with the second subframe being shifted up and over by half pixel using an optical actuator glass/lens between the imager and lens. When these subframes merge in our eyes and brains they create a pseudo 4K composite image based on the original 4K image. This is done by human persistence of vision, similar to how interlacing works with a CRT painting the odd TV lines, and then the even ones sequentially.




Yeah....... What he said. Lol

Thanks for clearing that up Dave. The only point I was trying to make was watching a native 4k source vs a native 1080p source will look different. With the 4K source looking more sharp and clear. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Ok, so I put Disc 3 of *Planet Earth II* in a minute ago. WTH?! Everything was all messed up. So, went to 'Input Info' on the PJ; Disc 3 is in SD Blu-ray. lol. Ok, that explains it. So, went into settings to see how good I could get it. Ummm, there's no comparison. 4k UHD rules! I'm not even going to watch Disc 3.


----------



## Dave Harper

Snoogleheimer said:


> Ok, so I put Disc 3 of *Planet Earth II* in a minute ago. WTH?! Everything was all messed up. So, went to 'Input Info' on the PJ; Disc 3 is in SD Blu-ray. lol. Ok, that explains it. So, went into settings to see how good I could get it. Ummm, there's no comparison. 4k UHD rules! I'm not even going to watch Disc 3.



Somebody messed up then. The whole series of discs should all be UHD if I'm not mistaken. I recall disc 3 being one of the best. That's the one with the Desert chapter right?

I would ask for a replacement from your seller.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Dave Harper said:


> Somebody messed up then. The ,whole series of discs should all be UHD if I'm not mistaken. I recall disc 3 being one of the best. That's the one with the Desert chapter right?
> 
> I would ask for a replacement from your seller.


No, disc 2 is the desert chapter. Disk 3 is an 'extras' disc shot is SD Blu-Ray.


----------



## hnupe

*Follow-up question*



robc1976 said:


> Oledurt, what is your reasoning for turing super resolution, detail enhancement, sharpness all to 0? Does it hurt image?


I have the same question....would love to know. The current picture as listed is great, I thought Super resolution, detail enhancement and sharpness would help??(I am a rookie)


----------



## Oledurt

hnupe said:


> I have the same question....would love to know. The current picture as listed is great, I thought Super resolution, detail enhancement and sharpness would help??(I am a rookie)




this setting is like using a salt shaker. Season to taste...

Set it how you wish.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jason_galaxy

Oledurt + Harpervision = I can actually watch HDR now

Well done guys. 


Just too bad you can't tag a setting to a format so that it would automatically pick a memory based
on SDR or HDR (AKA what "bright auto" is supposed to do).


----------



## panman40

jason_galaxy said:


> Oledurt + Harpervision = I can actually watch HDR now
> 
> Well done guys.
> 
> 
> Just too bad you can't tag a setting to a format so that it would automatically pick a memory based
> on SDR or HDR (AKA what "bright auto" is supposed to do).


That's something I've been on about for sometime but nobody seemed interested in lobbying Epson about it here, a fe did in the uk but not enough to make a difference. It auto detects 3D and swaps to chosen settings so why not an HDR signal too .


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> Oledurt's take on Harpervision.
> 
> Color Mode Digital Cinema
> Brightness 53 (please adjust this to your screen)
> Contrast 100
> Color Saturation 73
> Tint 50
> 
> Sharpness all 0
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> 
> [Customized]
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 48
> Gain G 61
> Gain B 34
> 
> Image Enhancement Off
> Super Resolution all 0
> Detail Enhancement all 0
> 
> Power Consumption High
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> Gamma (from left to right)
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28,-26,15,32
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> 
> R
> Hue 50 Saturation 23 Brightness 50
> G
> Hue 78 Saturation 8 Brightness 50
> B
> Hue 68 Saturation 30 Brightness 50
> C
> Hue 56 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> M
> Hue 76 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> Y
> Hue 44 Saturation 29 Brightness 50
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI Video Range Normal
> Color space BT.2020
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> No HD Fury, and all settings on the blu ray player at default.
> 
> The CMS was calibrated using HDR 1 tone mapping so I do not know how these translate to Harpervision, but to my eye watching various material it looks pretty good to me.
> 
> Best of luck.
> 
> Couple more screens of Unforgiven


 since you have a ub900 figured I would askb you, are you outputting videovin 24P or 60P?. I forgot what dedault us. I am for some reason getting a bit a grainy/movement in the pixels it seems. Might need to fucus lens or possibly one of the enhancement feature's is doing it.


----------



## k3nnis

By the way are the Harper vision and oledurt settings combined only to view HDR content? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## prme19

Anybody knows where I can get the SLB 357 bracket? I can't find it on the Chief website. Thanks


----------



## Dave Harper

k3nnis said:


> By the way are the Harper vision and oledurt settings combined only to view HDR content?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



My settings are only for HDR. Can't say 100% for Oledurt's, but I think it's the same.


----------



## k3nnis

Dave Harper said:


> My settings are only for HDR. Can't say 100% for Oledurt's, but I think it's the same.




Ok thanks. Where should I look for non HDR settings? Or use one of the presets.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Guys, maybe this is normal but if I get real close to the screen 1-2ft from screen itb looks like pixels are jumping? Like movement on the screen. I don't believe this was there before. Its almost like fuzz. From my seats picture is clear but I can see it in some scenes.


----------



## robc1976

Also,

Going thru settings on my UB900 and noticed the "deep color output" setting was set to "auto 12 bit priority", would it not be better to have "auto 10 bit priority"?. Our projectors have a 10 bit chip set don't they?


----------



## welldun

prme19 said:


> Anybody knows where I can get the SLB 357 bracket? I can't find it on the Chief website. Thanks


you can get it from projector people dot com. ask for this "Chief Manufacturing Custom RPA Projector Mount (Black) (CHIRPA357)". 

Just keep in mind that this is a very low profile mount. you have to make sure that the screen is at a proper height and that you have enough vertical shift to use this mount effectively.


----------



## prme19

welldun said:


> you can get it from projector people dot com. ask for this "Chief Manufacturing Custom RPA Projector Mount (Black) (CHIRPA357)".
> 
> Just keep in mind that this is a very low profile mount. you have to make sure that the screen is at a proper height and that you have enough vertical shift to use this mount effectively.


My screen is flush mounted to a 7'8" ceiling with the top of the viewing screen at about 8 inches from the ceiling. My projector will be about 12'6" away and will be under a soffit, which is about 6'8" from the floor. This is why I'm thinking of flush mounting the projector, and this RPA/SLB combo will only about 3-4" from the ceiling from what others had said. I should be good with the vertical shift right? Or do I need to use a pipe to bring it down some more?


----------



## robc1976

Guessing another bad projector, just got this one 3 days ago and there pixels are flickering around. Been told possibly dust on chips set. This is honestly insane

I hadv one withvdust blob
I had one where power source just fried
Now this one has flickering dancing Pixels.

Getting to the point where I expect the projector to be bad.


----------



## welldun

prme19 said:


> My screen is flush mounted to a 7'8" ceiling with the top of the viewing screen at about 8 inches from the ceiling. My projector will be about 12'6" away and will be under a soffit, which is about 6'8" from the floor. This is why I'm thinking of flush mounting the projector, and this RPA/SLB combo will only about 3-4" from the ceiling from what others had said. I should be good with the vertical shift right? Or do I need to use a pipe to bring it down some more?


your situation sounds similar to mine except for the fact that my PJ sits back with the lens at about 16 feet from the screen. I use that mount so the PJ doesn't block the door which swings open just below it. 

FYI, as a precaution, I installed a piece of 14"x18" sheet metal from Home Depot onto the ceiling in order to have a stronger surface to mount the PJ onto. Due to the location for the PJ, I didn't have direct access to the joists in the ceiling, so I drilled the sheet metal onto the joists and then the mount onto the sheet metal. You *can't* see the sheet metal in these pics that I have attached, but you can see how it turned out.


----------



## prme19

welldun said:


> your situation sounds similar to mine except for the fact that my PJ sits back with the lens at about 16 feet from the screen. I use that mount so the PJ doesn't block the door which swings open just below it.
> 
> FYI, as a precaution, I installed a piece of 14"x18" sheet metal from Home Depot onto the ceiling in order to have a stronger surface to mount the PJ onto. Due to the location for the PJ, I didn't have direct access to the joists in the ceiling, so I drilled the sheet metal on the joists and then the mount onto the sheet metal. You can see the sheet metal in these pics that I have attached, but you can see how it turned out.


But I should be ok to flush mount it or do I need to get a pipe? Cool setup by the way. I don't have a dedicated home theater (my 3 year old daughter takes half of the basement as her play area)

I forgot to mention that I will be putting a 1/2" thick 28"x 10" birch wood piece on the drywall (not hidden on top of it- I don't want to make a big hole since there are some vents up there) to span 2 joists which are 22 inches apart and mount the PJ directly to it.

There's also a column on front of the screen on that soffit supporting a beam. So I can't put the PJ directly in front and center. So it'll have to go to either sides and back.


----------



## welldun

prme19 said:


> But I should be ok to flush mount it or do I need to get a pipe? Cool setup by the way. I don't have a dedicated home theater (my 3 year old daughter takes half of the basement as her play area)
> 
> I forgot to mention that I will be putting a 1/2" thick 28"x 10" birch wood piece on the drywall (not hidden on top of it- I don't want to make a big hole since there are some vents up there) to span 2 joists which are 22 inches apart and mount the PJ directly to it.
> 
> There's also a column on front of the screen on that soffit supporting a beam. So I can't put the PJ directly in front and center. So it'll have to go to either sides and back.


Based on the ceiling height, you should not need an extension pipe.However, just be mindful of a few things... First, this PJ is rather large, so in total with mount in place it will hang down around 10 inches from wherever you mount it. Depending on seating arrangement, you might end up with it too close to your head, where the sound of the PJ could be distracting. If you haven't done so already, you might want to test out the setup by placing the PJ in the location that you expect it to end up. Try setting it on a ladder or on a stack of boxes or anything else that will give you the proper height. Then you can run the PJ and test out the vertical and horizontal lens shifting to make sure that you will have the proper range to fill the screen. While you're at it, sit through a full movie with the volume where you would normally listen, this will help you test the sounds from PJ will be a distraction. I say full movie so that you can get into the whole experience without solely listening for PJ noise. If you get into the movie and the PJ sound is too much, then either adjust your seating or find another location for the PJ. 
One of my favorite things about Epson projectors is that they have very good range both in Zoom and Lens shift. So they make it possible to find the best location for the PJ so that it doesn't interfere. 
Good luck with your setup.


----------



## prme19

welldun said:


> Based on the ceiling height, you should not need an extension pipe.However, just be mindful of a few things... First, this PJ is rather large, so in total with mount in place it will hang down around 10 inches from wherever you mount it. Depending on seating arrangement, you might end up with it too close to your head, where the sound of the PJ could be distracting. If you haven't done so already, you might want to test out the setup by placing the PJ in the location that you expect it to end up. Try setting it on a ladder or on a stack of boxes or anything else that will give you the proper height. Then you can run the PJ and test out the vertical and horizontal lens shifting to make sure that you will have the proper range to fill the screen. While you're at it, sit through a full movie with the volume where you would normally listen, this will help you test the sounds from PJ will be a distraction. I say full movie so that you can get into the whole experience without solely listening for PJ noise. If you get into the movie and the PJ sound is too much, then either adjust your seating or find another location for the PJ.
> One of my favorite things about Epson projectors is that they have very good range both in Zoom and Lens shift. So they make it possible to find the best location for the PJ so that it doesn't interfere.
> Good luck with your setup.


Thanks. I'll try to test the location with a ladder


----------



## evergreek

Anybody has calibration numbers for regular 1080P content? Is there a prefer preset to use? Thanks!


----------



## welldun

evergreek said:


> Anybody has calibration numbers for regular 1080P content? Is there a prefer preset to use? Thanks!


If you go back to post #9547 in this thread you will find a link to a wonderful pdf document that one of the other members put together. It lists all of the settings that have been shared in this thread so far, both for SDR and HDR calibration. The one thing to keep in mind is that everyone's viewing environment is unique even if its similar, so there is no guarantee that someone else settings will work well for you. 

Good luck.


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

evergreek said:


> Anybody has calibration numbers for regular 1080P content? Is there a prefer preset to use? Thanks!


I use Natural setting and have adjusted the brightness and contrast slightly, to set the black and white levels, with the Disney WOW disc.


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

*fan noise*

I would like to request 5040ub owners to listen to recordings of my projector to help determine whether there is an issue. The Epson tech support claim it is 60Hz hum, but that is completely wrong. I hear a lower frequency noise that seems like it would be the fan bearings not the fan blades. It occurs with no input, it's not the 4K shifting noise some have mentioned. It is worse at low speed since there is less fan blade blowing noise. You may have to turn your volume high. Thanks.
This recording is the fan noise, followed by power off so you hear the lens close and then the fan noise slow down and stop. Does yours sound like that? It's loud enough to be bothersome.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/89aa3q6g39vvedf/Proj%20Noise%20Power%20Off.m4a?dl=0


----------



## Duddits

ComradeBrehznev said:


> I would like to request 5040ub owners to listen to recordings of my projector to help determine whether there is an issue. The Epson tech support claim it is 60Hz hum, but that is completely wrong. I hear a lower frequency noise that seems like it would be the fan bearings not the fan blades. It occurs with no input, it's not the 4K shifting noise some have mentioned. It is worse at low speed since there is less fan blade blowing noise. You may have to turn your volume high. Thanks.
> This recording is the fan noise, followed by power off so you hear the lens close and then the fan noise slow down and stop. Does yours sound like that? It's loud enough to be bothersome.
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/89aa3q6g39vvedf/Proj Noise Power Off.m4a?dl=0


This sounds like something is wrong. I do not have this sound in mine. Contact Epson again and send it back.


----------



## oraclation

Have had my 5040UB for 4 months, 250hrs on lamp, latest firmware. Experienced my first glitch:

I have two lens memory positions, one for 2:35 and one for 16:9. Occasionally when I change position, the on screen message takes 10-15 seconds to disappear. Last night, I changed lens position and the message did not go away (waited 5 minutes) and locked out all buttons, even the power button on the projector itself. The video was still playing correctly behind the message.

Ultimately, I had to unplug the power cable. After reconnecting the power cable, the fan went on high for two minutes, then started up normally. Everything "seems" to be fine again. I'll create new lens memory positions to eliminate one possible factor.

Has this happened to anyone else?

Thanks!


----------



## jason_galaxy

Duddits said:


> This sounds like something is wrong. I do not have this sound in mine. Contact Epson again and send it back.


Sounds like a bad fan.


----------



## jason_galaxy

Anybody seen this one? I try to run the power consumption on ECO as much as I can. Occasionally when watching an
SDR 4k source (like upscaled bluray from the Sony), or an HDR 4k source with Harpervision set to SDR, it will
get into a mode where the brightness drops for just an instant about once a second. 

It will stay this way even if I turn off the Sony and display the blue pattern. It only happens occasionally and
switching to medium and back clears it. Maybe power supply?


----------



## n4xxr76

jason_galaxy said:


> Anybody seen this one? I try to run the power consumption on ECO as much as I can. Occasionally when watching an
> 
> SDR 4k source (like upscaled bluray from the Sony), or an HDR 4k source with Harpervision set to SDR, it will
> 
> get into a mode where the brightness drops for just an instant about once a second.
> 
> 
> 
> It will stay this way even if I turn off the Sony and display the blue pattern. It only happens occasionally and
> 
> switching to medium and back clears it. Maybe power supply?




What is your auto-iris set to? I see the same thing when mine is set to High, it works fine in the other modes though. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

oraclation said:


> Have had my 5040UB for 4 months, 250hrs on lamp, latest firmware. Experienced my first glitch:
> 
> I have two lens memory positions, one for 2:35 and one for 16:9. Occasionally when I change position, the on screen message takes 10-15 seconds to disappear. Last night, I changed lens position and the message did not go away (waited 5 minutes) and locked out all buttons, even the power button on the projector itself. The video was still playing correctly behind the message.
> 
> Ultimately, I had to unplug the power cable. After reconnecting the power cable, the fan went on high for two minutes, then started up normally. Everything "seems" to be fine again. I'll create new lens memory positions to eliminate one possible factor.
> 
> Has this happened to anyone else?
> 
> Thanks!


 Exactly when my 2nd projector went out, just turned off.

I have another I just got and think there is issue with new one. If u get close to screen it looks as if the pixels are moving/flickering. Almost like fuzz on a static TV. At seats I don't see this as much. Uhd its clear at seats but getting really close to screen I see that movement.

It's this normal?


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Exactly when my 2nd projector went out, just turned off.
> 
> 
> 
> I have another I just got and think there is issue with new one. *If u get close to screen it looks as if the pixels are moving/flickering.* Almost like fuzz on a static TV. At seats I don't see this as much. Uhd its clear at seats but getting really close to screen I see that movement.
> 
> 
> 
> It's this normal?



That sounds as if the eShift is operating and that's what you're seeing.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> That sounds as if the eShift is operating and that's what you're seeing.


 so that is normal then?. I noticed with lower preset (2 instead of 3) and turning sharpness, linec enhancement, ECT It makes it a bit better.

I rather not return this projector as I spent over 4 hrs tweaking your gamma curve and you are so right. Once you hit the sweet spot picture is inane. 

I had 2 point at-11 and it gave a tiny bit more detail but black levels sufferer. What madev the biggest difference was point 6 & 7.

Dave can you PLEASE answer this question.

On the UB900 there is a HDMI setting called "deep color output". I noticed with this off picture seemed clearer. I found this out because I thought somethingc was wrong with picture "clearly not" and it said "turn off if picture is distorted" so I did. Seems clearer?


----------



## jason_galaxy

n4xxr76 said:


> What is your auto-iris set to? I see the same thing when mine is set to High, it works fine in the other modes though.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Actually I have it off, I thought that's what it was at first. Its seems more like a change in lamp brightness than
signal or iris. I plan to call Epson if I can figure out if there is something triggering it or if it is random.


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> so that is normal then?. I noticed with lower preset (2 instead of 3) and turning sharpness, linec enhancement, ECT It makes it a bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> I rather not return this projector as I spent over 4 hrs tweaking your gamma curve and you are so right. Once you hit the sweet spot picture is inane.
> 
> 
> 
> I had 2 point at-11 and it gave a tiny bit more detail but black levels sufferer. What madev the biggest difference was point 6 & 7.
> 
> 
> 
> Dave can you PLEASE answer this question.
> 
> 
> 
> On the UB900 there is a HDMI setting called "deep color output". I noticed with this off picture seemed clearer. I found this out because I thought somethingc was wrong with picture "clearly not" and it said "turn off if picture is distorted" so I did. Seems clearer?



Yes seeing that with eShift is normal when you're up close to the screen. Changing settings that affect sharpness and detail will also change the intensity of how it reacts. 

Please be more clear on your ub900 question. I'm not sure what you're asking. What does your 5040's INFO screen report as being sent....8, 10, 12 bit? What were you seeing that was "wrong"?


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Yes seeing that with eShift is normal when you're up close to the screen. Changing settings that affect sharpness and detail will also change the intensity of how it reacts.
> 
> Please be more clear on your ub900 question. I'm not sure what you're asking. What does your 5040's INFO screen report as being sent....8, 10, 12 bit? What were you seeing that was "wrong"?


See pic below with this off it says 12 bit


----------



## panman40

jason_galaxy said:


> n4xxr76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What is your auto-iris set to? I see the same thing when mine is set to High, it works fine in the other modes though.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I have it off, I thought that's what it was at first. Its seems more like a change in lamp brightness than
> signal or iris. I plan to call Epson if I can figure out if there is something triggering it or if it is random.
Click to expand...

This is lamp flicker, I had it with my initial lamp, it's wise to run in medium lamp occasionally, I do for 3D, it seems to keep conditioned. I asked Epson for a new lamp which they posted to me, easy to change too.


----------



## welldun

ht guy said:


> Thanks! Fixed.


Thanks again for putting together the spreadsheet listing all of the calibration settings that have been posted for HDR and SDR. I was wondering if anyone had posted a calibration for 3D? unfortunately when I try to search for it in this thread, the search results leave out the "3D" part of the search because the word is too short!


----------



## KevinG

Any x040 owners driving their projector from an HTPC set to a 4k desktop? I'm wondering how bad the desktop will look after going through the eShift. I'm assuming I'd want the HTPC set to 4k in order to feed the projector 4k...

Thanks.


----------



## sddp

welldun said:


> Thanks again for putting together the spreadsheet listing all of the calibration settings that have been posted for HDR and SDR. I was wondering if anyone had posted a calibration for 3D? unfortunately when I try to search for it in this thread, the search results leave out the "3D" part of the search because the word is too short!


I think we're too small of a group for that, but keeping my hopes up


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> See pic below with this off it says 12 bit



What part of your image was distorted that made you select OFF instead of leaving it at the default AUTO (12 Bit Priority) setting as it recommends?


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> What part of your image was distorted that made you select OFF instead of leaving it at the default AUTO (12 Bit Priority) setting as it recommends?


 seemed to make eshift less noticeable. I well look again.


----------



## Boggle

KevinG said:


> Any x040 owners driving their projector from an HTPC set to a 4k desktop? I'm wondering how bad the desktop will look after going through the eShift. I'm assuming I'd want the HTPC set to 4k in order to feed the projector 4k...
> 
> Thanks.



4k on HTPC looks great, way better than 1080p.


----------



## welldun

robc1976 said:


> they are a bit muted I agree but still good. Dave's has pop. I go between the 2. I messed around with Dave's gamma for hours today and gotv great results with just a click or 2 on some points. Way more detail for sure.
> 
> Gamma
> 
> 0
> -13
> -25
> -27
> -27
> -28
> -27
> 15
> 32


Hi! I'm curious to know where you and others got the info to learn about adjusting the Gamma and other settings. I have a disc at home (not for HDR) that talks about adjusting brightness and contrast using patterns that are on the disc, but nothing about gamma adjustments. I'm curious to know what exactly you are looking for/at when you are making these adjustments?


----------



## robc1976

welldun said:


> Hi! I'm curious to know where you and others got the info to learn about adjusting the Gamma and other settings. I have a disc at home (not for HDR) that talks about adjusting brightness and contrast using patterns that are on the disc, but nothing about gamma adjustments. I'm curious to know what exactly you are looking for/at when you are making these adjustments?


Dave's is by eye, pop on jon wick 2 pause a scene with him and his suit on I adjust the points to see detail with good blacks. Daves takes minimal adjustment. This takes hours but worth it. You have to get brightness set 1st.


----------



## welldun

robc1976 said:


> Dave's is by eye, pop on jon wick 2 pause a scene with him and his suit on I adjust the points to see detail with good blacks. Daves takes minimal adjustment. This takes hours but worth it. You have to get brightness set 1st.


Ok thanks. 
So is every point on the graph tied to a different portion of the screen? meaning if I adjust the first point it will adjust the first 10th (hypothetically speaking) of the screen from left to right, or is each point tied to something else?

When I plug in the values that Dave and Oledurt provided, I see the option to make the changes based on a graph or the image. Since in my case it doesn't make a difference ( i'm just plugging in the numbers), I usually select "based on the image". However, when I do that, I can see different parts of the image flashing as I move from point to point.

It would be good to know if only that portion of the image is being affected by that specific point, or if there is more to it than that?


----------



## Dave Harper

welldun said:


> Ok thanks.
> 
> So is every point on the graph tied to a different portion of the screen? meaning if I adjust the first point it will adjust the first 10th (hypothetically speaking) of the screen from left to right, or is each point tied to something else?
> 
> 
> 
> When I plug in the values that Dave and Oledurt provided, I see the option to make the changes based on a graph or the image. Since in my case it doesn't make a difference ( i'm just plugging in the numbers), I usually select "based on the image". However, when I do that, I can see different parts of the image flashing as I move from point to point.
> 
> 
> 
> It would be good to know if only that portion of the image is being affected by that specific point, or if there is more to it than that?



No the points adjust from blacks to whites going left to right. Use the by graph option and put on a good scene that has great mixed content from deep blacks to high bright whites. The best scene I noticed for this is using The Revenant UHD Bluray towards the end of the first battle scene when the older man walks towards and shoots the horse, then turns and walks through the small shed with the dying man there being comforted by his friend. That has deep darks in the shadows and super bright specular white highlights from the sun lens flares. I usually pause it just as he is about to enter the shed when all facets of video are present from dark to light. 

Then when you call up gamma in the 5040 and select by graph, the picture level that pertains to the selected gamma point will flash so you know which video level you're adjusting. 

Tweak each of the points up or down a click or two after inputting my baseline then go back and watch the scene. You have to do this over and over and at some point your combo of settings will just seem to pop in and you'll be amazed at what you're seeing.

The things to look for in the video after adjustments at each point are hazy blacks and midtones and overblown clipped whites. If you see that then you still need to adjust. You should see deep dark blacks but still with shadow details and also bright flashy whites but still discern the various white levels, like in clouds. 

My settings aren't all by eye. I start with a greyscale and CMS calibration and make sure basics like brightness and contrast are set properly first. Then I also double check these after. 

It is a game of back and forth for potentially hours or days but eventually it just happens and you nail it! There will be some times that you think, dang that's pretty good, but I'm telling you if you keep at it you'll all of the sudden hit a combo of settings that will simply floor you with its depth and dimensionality and clarity! For those that say my settings are just "OK" tells me they haven't hit that point yet.


----------



## welldun

Dave Harper said:


> No the points adjust from blacks to whites going left to right. Use the by graph option and put on a good scene that has great mixed content from deep blacks to high bright whites....
> The things to look for in the video after adjustments at each point are hazy blacks and midtones and overblown clipped whites. If you see that then you still need to adjust. You should see deep dark blacks but still with shadow details and also bright flashy whites but still discern the various white levels, like in clouds.
> 
> My settings aren't all by eye. I start with a greyscale and CMS calibration and make sure basics like brightness and contrast are set properly first. Then I also double check these after.
> 
> It is a game of back and forth for potentially hours or days but eventually it just happens and you nail it! There will be some times that you think, dang that's pretty good, but I'm telling you if you keep at it you'll all of the sudden hit a combo of settings that will simply floor you with its depth and dimensionality and clarity! For those that say my settings are just "OK" tells me they haven't hit that point yet.


Thanks SO MUCH for taking the time to explain this Dave I truly appreciate it!
I what the 4K HDR blu-ray of King Kong last night in HarperVision and it was great! However I then replayed the last 15 minutes of the film using your other settings for Bright Cinema and the color looked richer for some reason (especially the scene when the girl shoots the red flare into the monster's eye) but then the scenes where the clouds or sky was shown looked almost too bright. I'm sure that I have something set incorrectly since I switched from your HV to Bright Cinema, so I will revisit this scene again today and check the settings. 
I figure that I will also take the opportunity to tweak the gamma like you've instructed. Is there any advantage to adjusting it in the Digital Cinema vs the Bright Cinema setting or even just the plain Cinema mode?

Thanks again for all of your help.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> No the points adjust from blacks to whites going left to right. Use the by graph option and put on a good scene that has great mixed content from deep blacks to high bright whites. The best scene I noticed for this is using The Revenant UHD Bluray towards the end of the first battle scene when the older man walks towards and shoots the horse, then turns and walks through the small shed with the dying man there being comforted by his friend. That has deep darks in the shadows and super bright specular white highlights from the sun lens flares. I usually pause it just as he is about to enter the shed when all facets of video are present from dark to light.
> 
> Then when you call up gamma in the 5040 and select by graph, the picture level that pertains to the selected gamma point will flash so you know which video level you're adjusting.
> 
> Tweak each of the points up or down a click or two after inputting my baseline then go back and watch the scene. You have to do this over and over and at some point your combo of settings will just seem to pop in and you'll be amazed at what you're seeing.
> 
> The things to look for in the video after adjustments at each point are hazy blacks and midtones and overblown clipped whites. If you see that then you still need to adjust. You should see deep dark blacks but still with shadow details and also bright flashy whites but still discern the various white levels, like in clouds.
> 
> My settings aren't all by eye. I start with a greyscale and CMS calibration and make sure basics like brightness and contrast are set properly first. Then I also double check these after.
> 
> It is a game of back and forth for potentially hours or days but eventually it just happens and you nail it! There will be some times that you think, dang that's pretty good, but I'm telling you if you keep at it you'll all of the sudden hit a combo of settings that will simply floor you with its depth and dimensionality and clarity! For those that say my settings are just "OK" tells me they haven't hit that point yet.


 100% fact, I finally nailed and when you do you will know it.


----------



## robc1976

welldun said:


> Thanks SO MUCH for taking the time to explain this Dave I truly appreciate it!
> I what the 4K HDR blu-ray of King Kong last night in HarperVision and it was great! However I then replayed the last 15 minutes of the film using your other settings for Bright Cinema and the color looked richer for some reason (especially the scene when the girl shoots the red flare into the monster's eye) but then the scenes where the clouds or sky was shown looked almost too bright. I'm sure that I have something set incorrectly since I switched from your HV to Bright Cinema, so I will revisit this scene again today and check the settings.
> I figure that I will also take the opportunity to tweak the gamma like you've instructed. Is there any advantage to adjusting it in the Digital Cinema vs the Bright Cinema setting or even just the plain Cinema mode?
> 
> Thanks again for all of your help.


 digital cinema will have the P3 filter and colors are much better.


----------



## badaripanu

*4K Enhancement and FI both grayed out on my Epson 5040UB*

My set up:
Samsung UBD-K8500 blu-ray
SONY STRDN1080
Epson 5040UB; connected via a 25 feet HDMI 18 gbps cable + a female to femalre cheap connector + a 5 ft HDMI cable(Dont jump to conclusions yet 
110" Da-Lite screen.
7.1 (All Bose, older speakers) and a new Klipsch 
Klipsch Sub-12HG Synergy Series 12-Inch 300-Watt Subwoofer with High Gloss Trim (Black)

My issue is that right now both 4K enhancement and FI are grayed out. BUT, the input signal is below(near 3840X2160, 23.97 Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR ) See photo of screen below(You can tell based on the sky color of MadMax it IS HDR).

But, I KNOW it was working before:
History: 
I had a PREVIOUS Epson5040UB a week ago and when I had a lightening strike, its HDMI1 stopped receiving any input signal AND the SONY above stopped giving any HDMIA output signal. I had both replaced. BUT not the cable(IF this lightneing strike has any interest and relationship to my problem: I had SONY, EPSON, Samsung Blu-Ray, and a CISCO Cable box all plugged into an OLD surge protector. Cable box is ALL dead. Samsung seems to be OK. SONY HDMI A is dead( I connected a 1080i TV and it got no signal). Also, EPSON HDMI1(the one that has the HDCP ) is also dead. I connected a source to it and it still says no input. ). 

My point:
-In this PREVIOUS set up, 4K Enhancement WAS working.

I got the new EPSON and SONY yesterday and hooked up to the same wiring that is there before. I AM getting HDR, 12 bit as you can see in the picture. BUT, 4K Enhancement is grayed out. Also, FI is grayed out.
I left most of the setting as the factory setting.

Can someone help?

thanks,
Badari


----------



## Dave Harper

welldun said:


> Thanks SO MUCH for taking the time to explain this Dave I truly appreciate it!
> 
> I what the 4K HDR blu-ray of King Kong last night in HarperVision and it was great! However I then replayed the last 15 minutes of the film using your other settings for Bright Cinema and the color looked richer for some reason (especially the scene when the girl shoots the red flare into the monster's eye) but then the scenes where the clouds or sky was shown looked almost too bright. I'm sure that I have something set incorrectly since I switched from your HV to Bright Cinema, so I will revisit this scene again today and check the settings.
> 
> I figure that I will also take the opportunity to tweak the gamma like you've instructed. Is there any advantage to adjusting it in the Digital Cinema vs the Bright Cinema setting or even just the plain Cinema mode?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for all of your help.



Did you make sure to set the settings back to default or your calibrated BC settings, so it wasn't still in "HarperVision mode"? My settings won't look right and could look exaggerated when you're in another picture mode like BC.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Did you make sure to set the settings back to default or your calibrated BC settings, so it wasn't still in "HarperVision mode"? My settings won't look right and could look exaggerated when you're in another picture mode like BC.


 yep, the signal menu doesn't change, has happened many times. 

Dave, turns out I had a fault HDMI cable lol itc was brand new to.


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> Did you make sure to set the settings back to default or your calibrated BC settings, so it wasn't still in "HarperVision mode"? My settings won't look right and could look exaggerated when you're in another picture mode like BC.[bQUOTE] I want your HV CMS settings!!!


----------



## robc1976

badaripanu said:


> My set up:
> Samsung UBD-K8500 blu-ray
> SONY STRDN1080
> Epson 5040UB; connected via a 25 feet HDMI 18 gbps cable + a female to femalre cheap connector + a 5 ft HDMI cable(Dont jump to conclusions yet
> 110" Da-Lite screen.
> 7.1 (All Bose, older speakers) and a new Klipsch
> Klipsch Sub-12HG Synergy Series 12-Inch 300-Watt Subwoofer with High Gloss Trim (Black)
> 
> My issue is that right now both 4K enhancement and FI are grayed out. BUT, the input signal is below(near 3840X2160, 23.97 Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR ) See photo of screen below(You can tell based on the sky color of MadMax it IS HDR).
> 
> But, I KNOW it was working before:
> History:
> I had a PREVIOUS Epson5040UB a week ago and when I had a lightening strike, its HDMI1 stopped receiving any input signal AND the SONY above stopped giving any HDMIA output signal. I had both replaced. BUT not the cable(IF this lightneing strike has any interest and relationship to my problem: I had SONY, EPSON, Samsung Blu-Ray, and a CISCO Cable box all plugged into an OLD surge protector. Cable box is ALL dead. Samsung seems to be OK. SONY HDMI A is dead( I connected a 1080i TV and it got no signal). Also, EPSON HDMI1(the one that has the HDCP ) is also dead. I connected a source to it and it still says no input. ).
> 
> My point:
> -In this PREVIOUS set up, 4K Enhancement WAS working.
> 
> I got the new EPSON and SONY yesterday and hooked up to the same wiring that is there before. I AM getting HDR, 12 bit as you can see in the picture. BUT, 4K Enhancement is grayed out. Also, FI is grayed out.
> I left most of the setting as the factory setting.
> 
> Can someone help?
> 
> thanks,
> Badari


 if you haveva 4K signal going to projector they are grayed out


----------



## Steven414

I've had this PJ (5040ub) for just over a month now and I recently noticed that when I fire it up the fan kicks on super high gear for about a minute before it finally ignites light on the screen. Then the fan quickly drops down to normal quiet speed and all is well. Is this normal?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave Harper said:


> No the points adjust from blacks to whites going left to right. Use the by graph option and put on a good scene that has great mixed content from deep blacks to high bright whites. The best scene I noticed for this is using The Revenant UHD Bluray towards the end of the first battle scene when the older man walks towards and shoots the horse, then turns and walks through the small shed with the dying man there being comforted by his friend. That has deep darks in the shadows and super bright specular white highlights from the sun lens flares. I usually pause it just as he is about to enter the shed when all facets of video are present from dark to light.
> 
> Then when you call up gamma in the 5040 and select by graph, the picture level that pertains to the selected gamma point will flash so you know which video level you're adjusting.
> 
> Tweak each of the points up or down a click or two after inputting my baseline then go back and watch the scene. You have to do this over and over and at some point your combo of settings will just seem to pop in and you'll be amazed at what you're seeing.
> 
> The things to look for in the video after adjustments at each point are hazy blacks and midtones and overblown clipped whites. If you see that then you still need to adjust. You should see deep dark blacks but still with shadow details and also bright flashy whites but still discern the various white levels, like in clouds.
> 
> My settings aren't all by eye. *I start with a greyscale and CMS calibration and make sure basics like brightness and contrast are set properly first*. Then I also double check these after.
> 
> It is a game of back and forth for potentially hours or days but eventually it just happens and you nail it! There will be some times that you think, dang that's pretty good, but I'm telling you if you keep at it you'll all of the sudden hit a combo of settings that will simply floor you with its depth and dimensionality and clarity! For those that say my settings are just "OK" tells me they haven't hit that point yet.



Thanks Dave for this detailed explanation. I was also wondering how did you arrive at contrast of 100. Because if it was calibrated, it may not be at that level. Just curious.


----------



## JamesVG81

Steven414 said:


> I've had this PJ (5040ub) for just over a month now and I recently noticed that when I fire it up the fan kicks on super high gear for about a minute before it finally ignites light on the screen. Then the fan quickly drops down to normal quiet speed and all is well. Is this normal?


My 5030ube did the same thing at times . It's was random. Some times it would come on right way , other times it would do the high speed fan and take a bit longer to come on. Never had any issues with it . Just was random..


----------



## macmanjpc

Hey guys,

Brand new to projectors and UHD but purchased a 5040ub after much research and lurking on this thread for a little while. I finally finished my theatre room and fired up the projector for the very first time last night and am happy to say everything works out of the box quite nicely. We watched Kong: Skull Island in 4K played through an also new Sony UBP-X800.

That being said, I have read SO much of the 326 pages of this thread and it's pretty overwhelming for a newbie such as myself. I'm not really ready to get in to full on color calibration just yet. Instead, I'm wondering if there is a recommended "starting point" with regards to settings on a factory fresh 5040 that I should consider? Setting such as mode, dynamic range, iris, enhancement, etc., without getting into gamma, harpervision, stripping out HDR (whatever that means), etc.? Kinda just base recommended settings.

As far as environment goes, I have complete control of lighting with no ambient light at all. So it's essentially as dark as black. I'm using a 100" white screen with 1.0 gain. Throw distance is 16'. I'll be watching 4K UHD BD as well as regular HD BD, Netflix 4K and a Rogers 4K Nextbox cable (in Canada, made by Cisco. Model CAV10455HD I believe). Not sure what else you need to know so please just ask.

Also, I'm trying to figure out if I even have the latest firmware on the projector. I tried updating according to Epson's directions but it doesn't seem to work. Could be it's already updated but I can't confirm. Epson support tells me that V1.09 is the latest but when I check the version in my projector menu it says 'Version Main 660076648UWWV103'. I'm thinking that means V1.03?? Can anyone confirm and tell me how to update this projector? I downloaded the latest file to a USB stick, put it in the rear USB jack, hold down the power button while inserting the power cord. The fan runs full speed and lights start to flash, I let go of the power button and light continue to flash for, maybe 5 seconds and then shuts off. That's it.

Again, sorry for the newbie questions. Could really use the help.

Thanks!
J.


----------



## robc1976

aaranddeeman said:


> Thanks Dave for this detailed explanation. I was also wondering how did you arrive at contrast of 100. Because if it was calibrated, it may not be at that level. Just curious.


 he is clipping around 1200 nits at 100, do actually 110 would be better as it would clip at 1000 nit. Our projector does not go past 100


----------



## jbrazda

jwhn said:


> In case it helps, I ended up returning my Sony (and also have the Nvidia). The other benefit I remember is the ability to stream Netflix in HDR/4K. The Shield will only stream one or the other (4K or HDR). Since the upscaled HD looks very close to the 4K from my viewing distance, it wasn't worth keeping for this benefit alone. But AFAIK, the UHD players like the Sony are still the only way to correctly stream Netflix on the 5040.




There is one other benefit to a 4k player. Only uhd discs come with atmos sound on them. I'm keeping mine just for that reason 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

jbrazda said:


> There is one other benefit to a 4k player. Only uhd discs come with atmos sound on them. I'm keeping mine just for that reason
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Not entirely true. There are Blu-rays with Dolby Atmos, just not as many as there should be 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Hoping someone can give me proper guidance on how to calibrate for an HDR to SDR conversion. I mentioned in a previous post that my calibrator is coming back out to re-do his calibration. He feels he knows more about HDR and this specific pj. However, I want to make sure he doesn’t miss anything. So, I plan to have him test Dave’s Harpervision settings but not sure how to validate that it’s being tested accurately. I’m thinking all that needs to be done is to flip to Dave’s settings and make sure the calibrator is sending an HDR signal, is this correct? I believe I also need to stress that it would need a custom gamma curve, correct? 

While I would love to just have an HDR calibrated mode that looks awesome without clipping or crushing and good brightness it just doesn’t sound like this pj can do that. So want to have a backup calibrated mode that takes advantage of the WCG. I will still ask for an HDR mode for both Bright Cinema and Digital Cinema however.

Last question: how should the calibrator test for sending SDR with bt2020? I have an Oppo 203 that strips the HDR but it seems Oppo is still working on this feature. Nonetheless, I’d like a calibrated mode that I can use with this feature. My assumption is that we need to use the Dig Cin mode and have patterns that are Rec 709 but use P3 color? Is that right? Am I even saying this right?  Thanks in advance for your feedback. I’ve learned quite a bit in this thread but still very much a novice.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jbrazda

spirithockey79 said:


> Not entirely true. There are Blu-rays with Dolby Atmos, just not as many as there should be
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Your right. Some blurays have atmos. But very few. Still a good reason to have a uhd player. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GregCh

jbrazda said:


> Your right. Some blurays have atmos. But very few. Still a good reason to have a uhd player.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you buy the UHD 4K bluray version it almost always includes the equivalent standard bluray with full atmos sound.

That is what I have been doing to build up my library of 4K atmos titles before I get my 4K projector and UHD bluray player.


----------



## Dave Harper

aaranddeeman said:


> Thanks Dave for this detailed explanation. I was also wondering how did you arrive at contrast of 100. Because if it was calibrated, it may not be at that level. Just curious.





robc1976 said:


> he is clipping around 1200 nits at 100, do actually 110 would be better as it would clip at 1000 nit. Our projector does not go past 100



Yes robc is on the right track. Since I'm sending full HDR and switching to SDR mode, the calibrated contrast, even at 100, doesn't have enough range to get it exactly correct to clip at the proper point. I needed even higher levels of adjustment but I couldn't go above 100 of course. 

I think mine did clip at about exactly 1000 nits at 100 contrasts and the rest of my settings though rob, not 1200. I could be wrong, it's been a while now. 



spirithockey79 said:


> Hoping someone can give me proper guidance on how to calibrate for an HDR to SDR conversion. I mentioned in a previous post that my calibrator is coming back out to re-do his calibration. He feels he knows more about HDR and this specific pj. However, I want to make sure he doesn’t miss anything. So, I plan to have him test Dave’s Harpervision settings but not sure how to validate that it’s being tested accurately. I’m thinking all that needs to be done is to flip to Dave’s settings and make sure the calibrator is sending an HDR signal, is this correct? I believe I also need to stress that it would need a custom gamma curve, correct?
> 
> While I would love to just have an HDR calibrated mode that looks awesome without clipping or crushing and good brightness it just doesn’t sound like this pj can do that. So want to have a backup calibrated mode that takes advantage of the WCG. I will still ask for an HDR mode for both Bright Cinema and Digital Cinema however.
> 
> Last question: how should the calibrator test for sending SDR with bt2020? I have an Oppo 203 that strips the HDR but it seems Oppo is still working on this feature. Nonetheless, I’d like a calibrated mode that I can use with this feature. My assumption is that we need to use the Dig Cin mode and have patterns that are Rec 709 but use P3 color? Is that right? Am I even saying this right?  Thanks in advance for your feedback. I’ve learned quite a bit in this thread but still very much a novice.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Yes make sure to have ALL my settings including the custom gamma curve. Make sure to stress to him that those are baseline numbers and need to be tweaked for your system. Also stress to him that this is essentially a "hack" with HDR being sent and using SDR mode characteristics, so don't expect the gamma to measure perfectly because you're basically cramming an HDR 2084 EOTF onto a longtime standard SDR 2.2/2.4 gamma curve, then jerking it around to simulate how the 2084 curve would react, but with "improvements" to play on today's projectors that are nit starved for true HDR 2084 reproduction. Explain the way I like to say that if you took HDR and SDR and they had a baby that had the best features of each in a projector, this would be it. 

Have him do greyscale and CMS in this mode. And also check and set normal things like brightness and contrast first and then again after. 

Tell him to bone up on the awesome JVC threads that go over the custom HDR gamma threads as they're invaluable resources for understanding what's happening and why. 

For SDR bt2020, I would have him use the Cinema Mode since that also uses the P3 filter if I'm not mistaken. Then also have him setup Bright Cinema with Oledurt's great settings. 

For SDR HD and 4K I would use the Natural Mode. 

Rec709 is a lower and smaller gamut than P3 and bt2020, so you don't want to send a 709 pattern in and calibrate that to P3 cuz you'll artificially stretch the gamut and make colors potentially look too cartoony, and the proper points at 25,50,75% also won't align properly so no color will be correct. 




robc1976 said:


> Dave Harper said:
> 
> 
> 
> I want your HV CMS settings!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do I!
Click to expand...


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> Yes robc is on the right track. Since I'm sending full HDR and switching to SDR mode, the calibrated contrast, even at 100, doesn't have enough range to get it exactly correct to clip at the proper point. I needed even higher levels of adjustment but I couldn't go above 100 of course.
> 
> I think mine did clip at about exactly 1000 nits at 100 contrasts and the rest of my settings though rob, not 1200. I could be wrong, it's been a while now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes make sure to have ALL my settings including the custom gamma curve. Make sure to stress to him that those are baseline numbers and need to be tweaked for your system. Also stress to him that this is essentially a "hack" with HDR being sent and using SDR mode characteristics, so don't expect the gamma to measure perfectly because you're basically cramming an HDR 2084 EOTF onto a longtime standard SDR 2.2/2.4 gamma curve, then jerking it around to simulate how the 2084 curve would react, but with "improvements" to play on today's projectors that are nit starved for true HDR 2084 reproduction. Explain the way I like to say that if you took HDR and SDR and they had a baby that had the best features of each in a projector, this would be it.
> 
> Have him do greyscale and CMS in this mode. And also check and set normal things like brightness and contrast first and then again after.
> 
> Tell him to bone up on the awesome JVC threads that go over the custom HDR gamma threads as they're invaluable resources for understanding what's happening and why.
> 
> For SDR bt2020, I would have him use the Cinema Mode since that also uses the P3 filter if I'm not mistaken. Then also have him setup Bright Cinema with Oledurt's great settings.
> 
> For SDR HD and 4K I would use the Natural Mode.
> 
> Rec709 is a lower and smaller gamut than P3 and bt2020, so you don't want to send a 709 pattern in and calibrate that to P3 cuz you'll artificially stretch the gamut and make colors potentially look too cartoony, and the proper points at 25,50,75% also won't align properly so no color will be correct.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> robc1976 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So do I!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Dave. Just curious why you would use Cinema for SDR bt2020 instead of Digital Cinema. Also, how does one calibrate the bt2020 when you strip HDR? Are there bt2020 patterns that don’t also require an HDR signal?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## Oledurt

I think Harpervision is an ingenious, original, and creative idea. I also believe my bright cinema settings in my room are amazing. I am wow'd constantly when watching UHD films. Thing everyone needs to know is that this projector for its price is an outstanding purchase. What it is capable of is really astonishing.

I want to give you an idea of what my calibrator was able to achieve with HDR. I will tell you about what I learned and why I feel so good about the money I spent on this projector. Bright Cinema with auto bright ie HDR 1 is the best calibration he was able to do for HDR. 

In my room we measured the peak brightness at 167 nits in bright cinema. That is amazing for a projector. This thing is a light canon! Using his tests and gear he created a custom gamma curve for hdr that pushed what this projector could do all the way to just over 400 nits before the whites clipped. That is insane for a projector.

Now, I could extend the white clipping point to 1000 nits by lowering the contrast, but that also lowers the peak brightness, and the HDR effect goes away. I have never seen an image like this on a projector. Prior to getting my OLED I had not seen it on a flatscreen either.

As the technology advances the images we will see on the screen will be jaw dropping. More peak brightness, and more detail. Whichever settings you use does not matter to me. I just wish for all of you to see what I see on my screen. It is crazy, and I feel the same way after every 4k movie I watch. Looking forward to what the future holds...

And before anyone calls me out and reminds me I don't get WCG in Bright Cinema...Yes I know this, but I choose HDR over the P3 Colorspace at this point. Eventually, when we actually have the BT2020 colorspace, and not just a container for the P3 colorspace it will probably be a different story. By that point, I hope that HDR will be far enough along to be happily married with true BT2020.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Not sure what happened, was trying to quote Dave’s response. Anyway, I’ve updated the post:

Thanks Dave. Just curious why you would use Cinema for SDR bt2020 instead of Digital Cinema. Also, how does one calibrate the bt2020 when you strip HDR? Are there bt2020 patterns that don’t also require an HDR signal?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

spirithockey79 said:


> Not sure what happened, was trying to quote Dave’s response. Anyway, I’ve updated the post:
> 
> Thanks Dave. Just curious why you would use Cinema for SDR bt2020 instead of Digital Cinema. Also, how does one calibrate the bt2020 when you strip HDR? Are there bt2020 patterns that don’t also require an HDR signal?
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Because we are already using Digital Cinema for the HarperVision settings. 

You can use the R. Masciola's patterns just like you would a UHD Bluray and then strip the HDR metadata off so you're left with SDR bt2020, just like UHD movies.


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> I think Harpervision is an ingenious, original, and creative idea. I also believe my bright cinema settings in my room are amazing. I am wow'd constantly when watching UHD films. Thing everyone needs to know is that this projector for its price is an outstanding purchase. What it is capable of is really astonishing.
> 
> I want to give you an idea of what my calibrator was able to achieve with HDR. I will tell you about what I learned and why I feel so good about the money I spent on this projector. Bright Cinema with auto bright ie HDR 1 is the best calibration he was able to do for HDR.
> 
> In my room we measured the peak brightness at 167 nits in bright cinema. That is amazing for a projector. This thing is a light canon! Using his tests and gear he created a custom gamma curve for hdr that pushed what this projector could do all the way to just over 400 nits before the whites clipped. That is insane for a projector.
> 
> Now, I could extend the white clipping point to 1000 nits by lowering the contrast, but that also lowers the peak brightness, and the HDR effect goes away. I have never seen an image like this on a projector. Prior to getting my OLED I had not seen it on a flatscreen either.
> 
> As the technology advances the images we will see on the screen will be jaw dropping. More peak brightness, and more detail. Whichever settings you use does not matter to me. I just wish for all of you to see what I see on my screen. It is crazy, and I feel the same way after every 4k movie I watch. Looking forward to what the future holds...
> 
> And before anyone calls me out and reminds me I don't get WCG in Bright Cinema...Yes I know this, but I choose HDR over the P3 Colorspace at this point. Eventually, when we actually have the BT2020 colorspace, and not just a container for the P3 colorspace it will probably be a different story. By that point, I hope that HDR will be far enough along to be happily married with true BT2020.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 I use both ofv yours settings. I switch back and forth


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> I think Harpervision is an ingenious, original, and creative idea. I also believe my bright cinema settings in my room are amazing. I am wow'd constantly when watching UHD films. Thing everyone needs to know is that this projector for its price is an outstanding purchase. What it is capable of is really astonishing.
> 
> I want to give you an idea of what my calibrator was able to achieve with HDR. I will tell you about what I learned and why I feel so good about the money I spent on this projector. Bright Cinema with auto bright ie HDR 1 is the best calibration he was able to do for HDR.
> 
> In my room we measured the peak brightness at 167 nits in bright cinema. That is amazing for a projector. This thing is a light canon! Using his tests and gear he created a custom gamma curve for hdr that pushed what this projector could do all the way to just over 400 nits before the whites clipped. That is insane for a projector.
> 
> Now, I could extend the white clipping point to 1000 nits by lowering the contrast, but that also lowers the peak brightness, and the HDR effect goes away. I have never seen an image like this on a projector. Prior to getting my OLED I had not seen it on a flatscreen either.
> 
> As the technology advances the images we will see on the screen will be jaw dropping. More peak brightness, and more detail. Whichever settings you use does not matter to me. I just wish for all of you to see what I see on my screen. It is crazy, and I feel the same way after every 4k movie I watch. Looking forward to what the future holds...
> 
> And before anyone calls me out and reminds me I don't get WCG in Bright Cinema...Yes I know this, but I choose HDR over the P3 Colorspace at this point. Eventually, when we actually have the BT2020 colorspace, and not just a container for the P3 colorspace it will probably be a different story. By that point, I hope that HDR will be far enough along to be happily married with true BT2020.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Just trying to catch up again, so does this mean your now gone back to your original bright cinema settings or has your calibrator been out again and you have new settings and gamma for bright cinema ?.

Out of interest do you not notice the improved black levels that the P3 filter adds with cinema/digital cinema ?.


----------



## ht guy

Dave Harper said:


> H...I was constantly tinkering up until the day I sold it. I have to say the final version was smoking good, and just like yours it included a nice CMS and greyscale calibration before the final HV tweak. I can't believe I turned it off and boxed it up and shipped it without taking pix of those menu settings......Uuuggghhhh! ...


Hoping it was on eBay or through Craigslist, as anyone on this thread would _surely_ send them to you!

"Hey Dave, thanks for the projector, it's working great! Harpervision is amazing! Say what? You want a copy of the settings? Sorry, bud, can't do that." 

Seriously?

And as I post in my next response to oledurt, THANKS for your time and energy in helping us all out!


----------



## ht guy

Oledurt said:


> Oledurt's take on Harpervision.
> 
> Color Mode Digital Cinema
> ......
> No HD Fury, and all settings on the blu ray player at default.
> 
> The CMS was calibrated using HDR 1 tone mapping so I do not know how these translate to Harpervision, but to my eye watching various material it looks pretty good to me....





Oledurt said:


> I think Harpervision is an ingenious, original, and creative idea. I also believe my bright cinema settings in my room are amazing. I am wow'd constantly when watching UHD films. Thing everyone needs to know is that this projector for its price is an outstanding purchase. What it is capable of is really astonishing.
> 
> I want to give you an idea of what my calibrator was able to achieve with HDR. I will tell you about what I learned and why I feel so good about the money I spent on this projector. Bright Cinema with auto bright ie HDR 1 is the best calibration he was able to do for HDR...
> 
> ...As the technology advances the images we will see on the screen will be jaw dropping. More peak brightness, and more detail. Whichever settings you use does not matter to me. I just wish for all of you to see what I see on my screen. It is crazy, and I feel the same way after every 4k movie I watch. Looking forward to what the future holds...
> 
> And before anyone calls me out and reminds me I don't get WCG in Bright Cinema...Yes I know this, but I choose HDR over the P3 Colorspace at this point. Eventually, when we actually have the BT2020 colorspace, and not just a container for the P3 colorspace it will probably be a different story. By that point, I hope that HDR will be far enough along to be happily married with true BT2020.


Hey Oledirt, just trying to catch up with what you are currently using.

My (likely poor) recollection was that you had decided your Digital Cinema settings, combined with the HD Fury and UB900 (w/DR conversion at -6 and Brightness at +6) were better than your Bright Cinema settings.

Then, based on your post above "oledurt's take on harpervison" (though I now see you don't say this is what you are using) I was under the impression _that_ was your preferred setup.

Now, based on your latest post, I'm thinking you are saying you are back to your Bright Cinema settings - no HV, no Fury and no UB900 adjustments.

I'm happy to load them all in and see what looks best to me, but I'm not a videophile, so would like to start with what someone with better eyes than me is seeing. (caveat for room, treatments, etc.)

Can you clarify for this confused poster?

and a **huge* thanks* to you and Dave for the many hours you have spent, both woking on your settings and sharing them here. you are both a resource, without which, I (and many others, I suspect) would be lost! (Tho I may be anyway )


----------



## OMXP

I have a question to this epson pj owners, do you clean the filters regulary every month? cause I read that lcd projectors needs regular cleaning cause they accumlate dust inside the unit! should I be worried about getting this pj?

thanks


----------



## Dave2sb

I have the epson 5040ub and the Phillips 4k player. Will the hdfury linker strip hdr while still keeping Rec2020? I read somewhere that this only worked with the Panasonic 4k player. I wanted to make sure it worked with the Phillips player before dropping the $200 on the linker. If it does work, has anyone tried this and did it look good?


----------



## Oledurt

ht guy said:


> Hey Oledirt, just trying to catch up with what you are currently using.
> 
> 
> 
> My (likely poor) recollection was that you had decided your Digital Cinema settings, combined with the HD Fury and UB900 (w/DR conversion at -6 and Brightness at +6) were better than your Bright Cinema settings.
> 
> 
> 
> Then, based on your post above "oledurt's take on harpervison" (though I now see you don't say this is what you are using) I was under the impression _that_ was your preferred setup.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, based on your latest post, I'm thinking you are saying you are back to your Bright Cinema settings - no HV, no Fury and no UB900 adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm happy to load them all in and see what looks best to me, but I'm not a videophile, so would like to start with what someone with better eyes than me is seeing. (caveat for room, treatments, etc.)
> 
> 
> 
> Can you clarify for this confused poster?
> 
> 
> 
> and a **huge* thanks* to you and Dave for the many hours you have spent, both woking on your settings and sharing them here. you are both a resource, without which, I (and many others, I suspect) would be lost! (Tho I may be anyway )




Guys...

I switch my settings back and forth all the time. Constantly tweaking playing around with the new technology.

Harpervision was born from my bright cinema gamma curve, and Dave's work, and creativity.

I got rid of the panny since oppo through firmware updates has made their player good again.

My bright cinema settings are amazing in my room. If I want to use Digital Cinema with the P3 colorspace I use harpervision.

Mostly I use my ISF bright Cinema. Dave shared his settings, and I shared mine. You gotta use what works best for you.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ht guy

Oledurt said:


> Guys...
> 
> I switch my settings back and forth all the time. Constantly tweaking playing around with the new technology.
> 
> Harpervision was born from my bright cinema gamma curve, and Dave's work, and creativity.
> 
> I got rid of the panny since oppo through firmware updates has made their player good again.
> 
> My bright cinema settings are amazing in my room. If I want to use Digital Cinema with the P3 colorspace I use harpervision.
> 
> Mostly I use my ISF bright Cinema. Dave shared his settings, and I shared mine. You gotta use what works best for you.


Thanks for the clarification and thanks again for your contributions!


----------



## drhankz

OMXP said:


> I have a question to this epson pj owners, do you clean the filters regulary every month? cause I read that lcd projectors needs regular cleaning cause they accumlate dust inside the unit! should I be worried about getting this pj?
> 
> thanks


I am on my Third Epson - I have been using them since Day-One. 
My environment has a dedicate air conditioning system that keeps
the air cool and clean. After more than 7+ years of use the BULB
dies before I do dust removal.


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> Because we are already using Digital Cinema for the HarperVision settings.
> 
> You can use the R. Masciola's patterns just like you would a UHD Bluray and then strip the HDR metadata off so you're left with SDR bt2020, just like UHD movies.




But it’s possible to use Dig Cin for both HV and a “strip HDR setting” so I’m confused about your statement. Does Cinema provide a better starting point for what “stripping HDR” does with this pj? If one mode is better than the other then shouldn’t we use it for both? 

As far as the patterns go, that makes perfect sense. Is there no other way to measure SDR bt2020 (without Ryan’s patterns)? I just want to make sure my calibrator doesn’t elect to do it his way if there really isn’t another way and he doesn’t really know that.

I really appreciate all the time you and others take to provide feedback . The information you guys provide is invaluable!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## OMXP

drhankz said:


> I am on my Third Epson - I have been using them since Day-One.
> My environment has a dedicate air conditioning system that keeps
> the air cool and clean. After more than 7+ years of use the BULB
> dies before I do dust removal.


Good to know that. I just ordered a 6040ub. hope I won't regret it.

Thanks


----------



## drhankz

OMXP said:


> Good to know that. I just ordered a 6040ub. hope I won't regret it.
> 
> Thanks


Everything I have heard is THUMBS UP


----------



## Superfluous

how do you get rid of the soap opera effect?


----------



## robc1976

Superfluous said:


> how do you get rid of the soap opera effect?


 turn off FI


----------



## robc1976

spirithockey79 said:


> But it’s possible to use Dig Cin for both HV and a “strip HDR setting” so I’m confused about your statement. Does Cinema provide a better starting point for what “stripping HDR” does with this pj? If one mode is better than the other then shouldn’t we use it for both?
> 
> As far as the patterns go, that makes perfect sense. Is there no other way to measure SDR bt2020 (without Ryan’s patterns)? I just want to make sure my calibrator doesn’t elect to do it his way if there really isn’t another way and he doesn’t really know that.
> 
> I really appreciate all the time you and others take to provide feedback . The information you guys provide is invaluable!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 I believe digital cinema is the only mode with P3 color filter


----------



## robc1976

Curious to everyone's opinion on 1080P content 

Do you like having your player/xbox sending the the 4K signal "or" having your player/xbox send 1080P then you turn on 4K enhancement.

I prefer using the projectors 4K enhancement as picture seems better.


----------



## Superfluous

robc1976 said:


> turn off FI


What is FI?


----------



## Rgb

Superfluous said:


> What is FI?


Frame Interpolation


----------



## Superfluous

Rgb said:


> Frame Interpolation


Is that what's it's called in the system? And is that what makes the 4k enhanced picture?


----------



## GregCh

Superfluous said:


> Is that what's it's called in the system? And is that what makes the 4k enhanced picture?


No, Frame interpolation is used to smooth out the motion of a projected set of images. Normally movies are recorded at 24 frames per second. This speed has a long history and has been around for a century. 

However, for faster motion movies, sports, or TV shows, 24 frames per second can cause motion issues usually called "judder". It makes motion either blurry or jerky, it is especially noticeable in slow pan techniques in cinematic movies. 

By interpolating new frames between the original recorded frames "frame interpolation", the motion can be made much smoother and sharper. This works especially well for sports like hockey or football where high speed motion happens a lot. 

However for cinematic movies the smoothness can sometimes make the image look artificial and too processed. People usually call this the "Soap Opera Effect" or SOE because the effect looks similar to the way the old 70s & 80s daytime video tape soap operas looked on TV. 

The funny thing about high speed recording (say greater than 100 frames per second) is that it doesn't have a SOE look. Instead it can take on a hyper-realistic look that almost makes the image look 3D. However frame interpolation doesn't do that it looks more artificial.

Frame Interpolation has nothing to do with 4K resolution. It is strictly related to motion processing. The 4K image enhancement is another process entirely. JVC calls it e-shift. It is complex but is similar to dithering techniques used on computers for image or color enhancement.


----------



## ayrton

OMXP said:


> I have a question to this epson pj owners, do you clean the filters regulary every month? cause I read that lcd projectors needs regular cleaning cause they accumlate dust inside the unit! should I be worried about getting this pj?
> 
> thanks


No. I pulled mine out after about 350 hrs. and was clean..

Others with dirty homes and poor cooks may need frequent cleaning..


----------



## akgolf

Oledurt said:


> Guys...
> 
> I switch my settings back and forth all the time. Constantly tweaking playing around with the new technology.
> 
> Harpervision was born from my bright cinema gamma curve, and Dave's work, and creativity.
> 
> I got rid of the panny since oppo through firmware updates has made their player good again.
> 
> My bright cinema settings are amazing in my room. If I want to use Digital Cinema with the P3 colorspace I use harpervision.
> 
> Mostly I use my ISF bright Cinema. Dave shared his settings, and I shared mine. You gotta use what works best for you.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Which panny did you have and which Oppo do you have? Why did you chose the Oppo? I've seen a lot of recommendations for both and need to decide. 

I don't have either, but need to pick up a player for my LS10K soon. Theater not setup yet, but should be done by the end of the year. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

akgolf said:


> Which panny did you have and which Oppo do you have? Why did you chose the Oppo? I've seen a lot of recommendations for both and need to decide.
> 
> I don't have either, but need to pick up a player for my LS10K soon. Theater not setup yet, but should be done by the end of the year.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




I had the Panasonic DMP UB 900. I have the 
Oppo 203. Oppo has dolby vision and overall had a better build. It was buggy as hell but most have been fixec.

The panny is a tweakers delight, has a lot of controls to dial in the picture. It is high end on par with the oppo you cannot go wrong with either.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## akgolf

Oledurt said:


> I had the Panasonic DMP UB 900. I have the
> Oppo 203. Oppo has dolby vision and overall had a better build. It was buggy as hell but most have been fixec.
> 
> The panny is a tweakers delight, has a lot of controls to dial in the picture. It is high end on par with the oppo you cannot go wrong with either.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Thanks. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave2sb

I have the epson 5040ub and the Phillips 4k player. Will the hdfury linker strip hdr while still keeping Rec2020? I read somewhere that this only worked with the Panasonic 4k player. I wanted to make sure it worked with the Phillips player before dropping the $200 on the linker. If it does work, has anyone tried this and did it look good?


----------



## Dave Harper

spirithockey79 said:


> But it’s possible to use Dig Cin for both HV and a “strip HDR setting” so I’m confused about your statement. Does Cinema provide a better starting point for what “stripping HDR” does with this pj? If one mode is better than the other then shouldn’t we use it for both?
> 
> As far as the patterns go, that makes perfect sense. Is there no other way to measure SDR bt2020 (without Ryan’s patterns)? I just want to make sure my calibrator doesn’t elect to do it his way if there really isn’t another way and he doesn’t really know that.
> 
> I really appreciate all the time you and others take to provide feedback . The information you guys provide is invaluable!
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Of course it's "possible", but then don't you have to go back and select all the different settings for each one, each time? That seems like a pain. I totally reserve DC mode for HDR bt2020 movies. Nothing says you have to though. I would work it out with your calibrator while he's there and go with his recommendation as he sees how each mode responds to what he's trying to do with it. 

I suggested using Cinema mode for simplicity only. I never actually did that myself because I easily saw how much better HV was than stripping HDR, so why would I even do that anyway? If you do a calibration you can certainly make Cinema mode work for SDR BT2020. 

Someone mentioned Cinema doesn't use the filter, but can someone confirm? I thought it did. Maybe that's just on my LS10500? 




ht guy said:


> Hoping it was on eBay or through Craigslist, as anyone on this thread would _surely_ send them to you!
> 
> 
> 
> "Hey Dave, thanks for the projector, it's working great! Harpervision is amazing! Say what? You want a copy of the settings? Sorry, bud, can't do that."
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously?
> 
> 
> 
> And as I post in my next response to oledurt, THANKS for your time and energy in helping us all out!



Nope it was someone on here and I'm pretty sure they posted in this thread a few times too. Soon after they got it they sent me an email or PM saying they weren't sure they were going to keep it though. I think he was a gamer. 

I'll try to go back and find them and send a PM maybe. 



Dave2sb said:


> I have the epson 5040ub and the Phillips 4k player. Will the hdfury linker strip hdr while still keeping Rec2020? I read somewhere that this only worked with the Panasonic 4k player. I wanted to make sure it worked with the Phillips player before dropping the $200 on the linker. If it does work, has anyone tried this and did it look good?



It isn't really the Linker or Integral that strip the HDR. Jose just proved the proper EDID to the source and then it is up to the source player as to what it decides to do when given those EDID parameters. I do believe I read that the Philips UHD Bluray player does send SDR bt2020 when there is an HDF device in line telling it to do so. The Philips is based in the same chipset as the Panny so their GUIs look very similar. I believe I heard the Samsung 8500 doesn't. 

I would check the HDFury threads and ask there to be 100% sure.


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> spirithockey79 said:
> 
> 
> 
> But it?s possible to use Dig Cin for both HV and a ?strip HDR setting? so I?m confused about your statement. Does Cinema provide a better starting point for what ?stripping HDR? does with this pj? If one mode is better than the other then shouldn?t we use it for both?
> 
> As far as the patterns go, that makes perfect sense. Is there no other way to measure SDR bt2020 (without Ryan?s patterns)? I just want to make sure my calibrator doesn?t elect to do it his way if there really isn?t another way and he doesn?t really know that.
> 
> I really appreciate all the time you and others take to provide feedback . The information you guys provide is invaluable!
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course it's "possible", but then don't you have to go back and select all the different settings for each one, each time? That seems like a pain. I totally reserve DC mode for HDR bt2020 movies. Nothing says you have to though. I would work it out with your calibrator while he's there and go with his recommendation as he sees how each mode responds to what he's trying to do with it.
> 
> I suggested using Cinema mode for simplicity only. I never actually did that myself because I easily saw how much better HV was than stripping HDR, so why would I even do that anyway? If you do a calibration you can certainly make Cinema mode work for SDR BT2020.
> 
> Someone mentioned Cinema doesn't use the filter, but can someone confirm? I thought it did. Maybe that's just on my LS10500?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ht guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping it was on eBay or through Craigslist, as anyone on this thread would _surely_ send them to you!
> 
> 
> 
> "Hey Dave, thanks for the projector, it's working great! Harpervision is amazing! Say what? You want a copy of the settings? Sorry, bud, can't do that."
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously?
> 
> 
> 
> And as I post in my next response to oledurt, THANKS for your time and energy in helping us all out!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Nope it was someone on here and I'm pretty sure they posted in this thread a few times too. Soon after they got it they sent me an email or PM saying they weren't sure they were going to keep it though. I think he was a gamer.
> 
> I'll try to go back and find them and send a PM maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> Dave2sb said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the epson 5040ub and the Phillips 4k player. Will the hdfury linker strip hdr while still keeping Rec2020? I read somewhere that this only worked with the Panasonic 4k player. I wanted to make sure it worked with the Phillips player before dropping the $200 on the linker. If it does work, has anyone tried this and did it look good?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> It isn't really the Linker or Integral that strip the HDR. Jose just proved the proper EDID to the source and then it is up to the source player as to what it decides to do when given those EDID parameters. I do believe I read that the Philips UHD Bluray player does send SDR bt2020 when there is an HDF device in line telling it to do so. The Philips is based in the same chipset as the Panny so their GUIs look very similar. I believe I heard the Samsung 8500 doesn't.
> 
> I would check the HDFury threads and ask there to be 100% sure.
Click to expand...

Cinema mode on mine drops the P3 filter in as I can hear it.


----------



## OMXP

ayrton said:


> No. I pulled mine out after about 350 hrs. and was clean..
> 
> Others with dirty homes and poor cooks may need frequent cleaning..


LOL .. glad to hear that, no cooking here


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> Of course it's "possible", but then don't you have to go back and select all the different settings for each one, each time? That seems like a pain. I totally reserve DC mode for HDR bt2020 movies. Nothing says you have to though. I would work it out with your calibrator while he's there and go with his recommendation as he sees how each mode responds to what he's trying to do with it.
> 
> I suggested using Cinema mode for simplicity only. I never actually did that myself because I easily saw how much better HV was than stripping HDR, so why would I even do that anyway? If you do a calibration you can certainly make Cinema mode work for SDR BT2020.
> 
> Someone mentioned Cinema doesn't use the filter, but can someone confirm? I thought it did. Maybe that's just on my LS10500?



Ok. I can't think of any other settings that would have to be manually changed if I used Dig Cin for both HV SDR bt2020 & a "strip HDR" memory other than changing HDR on the Epson to SDR for HV. 

For stripping HDR that's just manually changing in the Oppo, but would still used the other settings, like Auto (Bright). I thought the only things that didn't save to a picture mode memory was HDMI Video Range (Auot/Normal/Expanded) and the HDR setting (Auto Bright, SDR, etc). 

CMS, gamma, etc should be saved for each memory slot.


----------



## Dave Harper

Fine dude, do it however you'd like. I merely made a suggestion to keep it simple by using different modes for different source signals. It's your home theater , do it however you want. 

I think gamma doesn't switch though.


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper, you have the patience of a saint!


----------



## burton14e7

Hey guys, this is my first projector so sorry if this sounds like a dumb question because it probably is. Whenever a black image or dark frames are being projected I can see visible vertical lines across then screen. Is that normal, a brightness setting that I need to tweak or do you have any suggestions on how to remedy the situation?


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> In my room we measured the peak brightness at 167 nits in bright cinema. That is amazing for a projector. This thing is a light canon! Using his tests and gear he created a custom gamma curve for hdr that pushed what this projector could do all the way to just over 400 nits before the whites clipped.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Wow that is amazing. I'm not getting anything even close to that. I think you posted it before, but what is your screen size, gain, and throw distance?

Also, did your calibrator give you any kind of report as part of your calibration?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

jwhn said:


> Wow that is amazing. I'm not getting anything even close to that. I think you posted it before, but what is your screen size, gain, and throw distance?
> 
> Also, did your calibrator give you any kind of report as part of your calibration?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




my screen is 125 inches 1.1 screen gain. The throw distance is about 15 ft. I would have to ask for the report. I do not have it. Keep in mind 167 nits is in bright cinema, the cinema filter cuts the brightness of the projector in half which is insane.

The custom gamma is what makes this projector capable of decent HDR.

Epson should have provided people with some information on how to tweak the gamma and or suggested curves, because it is mandatory to get a decent HDR affect.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> my screen is 125 inches 1.1 screen gain. The throw distance is about 15 ft. I would have to ask for the report. I do not have it. Keep in mind 167 nits is in bright cinema, the cinema filter cuts the brightness of the projector in half which is insane.
> 
> The custom gamma is what makes this projector capable of decent HDR.
> 
> Epson should have provided people with some information on how to tweak the gamma and or suggested curves, because it is mandatory to get a decent HDR affect.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Thanks for this. My screen setup is almost the same as yours. In fact, in theory I should get an even brighter picture. But I don't. Even in bright cinema. And it's not close.

Up to you whether to ask for the report. Seems like its something you would get, but I'm not sure what the professional etiquette is. ; )

I would be curious to see some of the measurements. I keep longing to get actual measurements vs just settings as they would be highly insightful.

Anyway, thanks again.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

jwhn said:


> Thanks for this. My screen setup is almost the same as yours. In fact, in theory I should get an even brighter picture. But I don't. Even in bright cinema. And it's not close.
> 
> Up to you whether to ask for the report. Seems like its something you would get, but I'm not sure what the professional etiquette is. ; )
> 
> I would be curious to see some of the measurements. I keep longing to get actual measurements vs just settings as they would be highly insightful.
> 
> Anyway, thanks again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Ohh you know what I am wrong! I had that figure wrong. It was 46 nits in digital cinema and 87 nits in bright cinema. From that 87 raw nits the custom gamma curve pushed it to just over 400 nits white clipping point on the R. Masciola test pattern.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> Ohh you know what I am wrong! I had that figure wrong. It was 46 nits in digital cinema and 87 nits in bright cinema. From that 87 raw nits the custom gamma curve pushed it to just over 400 nits white clipping point on the R. Masciola test pattern.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Gotcha. Makes more sense. I was ready to send my unit back!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Dave Harper said:


> Fine dude, do it however you'd like. I merely made a suggestion to keep it simple by using different modes for different source signals. It's your home theater , do it however you want.
> 
> I think gamma doesn't switch though.




Dave, my apologies if you took my response as anything other than trying to clarify something. I recognize that you have much more knowledge than I do in this area. Just wasn’t sure if I was missing something. I’ll have to check the gamma for different Dig Cin memories as I thought they could be saved to memory.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Quick question for you guys. What are you guys using to tweak your projector settings? I am getting ready to pull the trigger on buying a 5040 once my 5025UB sells. I want to be prepared. I calibrated my 5025 using the WoW BluRay disc. Where are you getting the test images from? I have tried skimming through this thread but there is just sooo many posts so it is likely I missed it. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Vijay Raghavan

*Which BD player ??*

Guys,

I am very excited about my projector , this will be the younger brother Epson Home Cinema 4000, I had nowhere else to go but come here because 4000 is pretty new.

I will be A/B testing this boy with Sony 45es, I hope it matches the black levels of the Sony which is the other one which I am considering, btw I got the 4000 at a very good price and 5040 is still little outside my budget.

I wanted to ask if anybody had done any comparison between the various bluray players, they come in different pricepoint and features, I did my homework and I have identified these are the five which don't strip HDR and work with the 10Gbps limit of the Epson. 

Oppo 203
_Samsung K8500 (with latest fw version?? )_
_Panasonic UBZ1_
_Panasonic UB900_
_Phillips BDP7501_[/SIZE][/FONT]

I am interested in BD movies and Streaming from Amazon / Netflix or Youtube mostly.

The Philips and Samsung are cheapest at pricepoint, do you recommend looking at Roku etc for 4K Streaming and use BD player for only playing the UHD discs? I know Panny and Oppo are over $500. 

/VJ


----------



## rupedogg24

Dave2sb said:


> I have the epson 5040ub and the Phillips 4k player. Will the hdfury linker strip hdr while still keeping Rec2020? I read somewhere that this only worked with the Panasonic 4k player. I wanted to make sure it worked with the Phillips player before dropping the $200 on the linker. If it does work, has anyone tried this and did it look good?


It works with the hdfury integral. I have the same components. The integral strips the hdr while keeping the better color space. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## badaripanu

robc1976 said:


> if you haveva 4K signal going to projector they are grayed out


Robc1976,
My apologies for not seeing this sooner. New the forum and did not set something up right I guess and did not receive any notification..plus did not know how to search for my own post.

Thanks a lot for your response. That really helps a LOT. And explains everything.

I suspect my Samsung UBD 8500 must be up converting some of my 1080P Youtube videos and Netflix videos. Wish there was a way to turn that off and let the Epson do it...

thanks again,
Badari


----------



## above1

*Is it QA issues to just really bad luck?*

I will now be going thru my 5th replacement of the, at this point crappy, projector within a span of 90 days.


1. Original Projector - Developed pink bar across the top - Seems like the optics became unglued or something. Seen other post about this " See attachment "pinkbar."
2. Refurb Replacement - Sounded like a mini fridge compressor turn on when 4Ke was active - Original on did not do this. - Seen other posts about this
3. Refurb Replacement - After a few weeks of use, just shut off while watching. Never to turn on again. - Seen other post about PS blowing
4. New Replacement - Turning on the new projector I notice a dark spot on the screen. Turn to having the entire screen white and it's a pink blob center left. See attachment "blob1."


I called this AM to Epson Care and they state they are unable to process my request and I have to wait for a specialist to call me. What is this "Specialist" going to do any different then the person processing the exchanges over the phone. It's not like they are going to have me take the projector apart and determine the cause of their crappy QA process. or clean out the optics. 


This is just ridiculous and frustrating. 

Anyone else experience anything like this? It can't just be me right?


----------



## welldun

Dave Harper said:


> Did you make sure to set the settings back to default or your calibrated BC settings, so it wasn't still in "HarperVision mode"? My settings won't look right and could look exaggerated when you're in another picture mode like BC.


Hi Dave,
I didn't want to leave this unanswered, sorry for the late reply. 
Unfortunately I have not been able to retrace my steps with all of the calibration settings, at the time that I was inputting the values I may have been reading from the wrong section of the chart that HTguy put together.
I think my best bet would be to reset all of the settings in the projector and start fresh. In doing so my goal will be to get the best setting for each of the following formats viewed in my dedicated and light controlled room:

Standard Blu-ray movies with the 4k enhancement
4k UHD discs
4k UHD discs with HDR
Streaming content from Netflix or Amazon in HDR
3D Blu-rays

What is your opinion on using the DVE HD Basics blu-ray to do an initial calibration under each of the viewing modes (BC, DC, Natural, 3D) and then layering your settings on top?

***Also, what is the consensus on where to do the up-scaling? both of the two media sources that I have ( Sony Ubp-X800 and Nvidia Shield 2017) offer the option of sending at the signal up-scaled. The same goes for my Pioneer AVR. Ultimately all of the signals will then be received at the projector which obviously could also do the up-scaling. Should we simple select that the signal be sent in its native format and then allow for the Projector to do the up-scaling where needed, or should we set the source to send out a 4k signal regardless of the actual format?

Lastly Dave, can you re-share that link that was part of your signature last week? It was the one that brought us to a file which had links to all of the posts in this thread that had key info/finding related to this projector.

Thanks.


----------



## above1

above1 said:


> I will now be going thru my 5th replacement of the, at this point crappy, projector within a span of 90 days.
> 
> 
> 1. Original Projector - Developed pink bar across the top - Seems like the optics became unglued or something. Seen other post about this " See attachment "pinkbar."
> 2. Refurb Replacement - Sounded like a mini fridge compressor turn on when 4Ke was active - Original on did not do this. - Seen other posts about this
> 3. Refurb Replacement - After a few weeks of use, just shut off while watching. Never to turn on again. - Seen other post about PS blowing
> 4. New Replacement - Turning on the new projector I notice a dark spot on the screen. Turn to having the entire screen white and it's a pink blob center left. See attachment "blob1."
> 
> 
> I called this AM to Epson Care and they state they are unable to process my request and I have to wait for a specialist to call me. What is this "Specialist" going to do any different then the person processing the exchanges over the phone. It's not like they are going to have me take the projector apart and determine the cause of their crappy QA process. or clean out the optics.
> 
> 
> This is just ridiculous and frustrating.
> 
> Anyone else experience anything like this? It can't just be me right?


So just received a call from a tech. They will be sending me out another new projector to receive tomorrow. I will be sending back 2. Here's to hoping this will be the last one I will need to exchange for a very long time.


----------



## robc1976

above1 said:


> I will now be going thru my 5th replacement of the, at this point crappy, projector within a span of 90 days.
> 
> 
> 1. Original Projector - Developed pink bar across the top - Seems like the optics became unglued or something. Seen other post about this " See attachment "pinkbar."
> 2. Refurb Replacement - Sounded like a mini fridge compressor turn on when 4Ke was active - Original on did not do this. - Seen other posts about this
> 3. Refurb Replacement - After a few weeks of use, just shut off while watching. Never to turn on again. - Seen other post about PS blowing
> 4. New Replacement - Turning on the new projector I notice a dark spot on the screen. Turn to having the entire screen white and it's a pink blob center left. See attachment "blob1."
> 
> 
> I called this AM to Epson Care and they state they are unable to process my request and I have to wait for a specialist to call me. What is this "Specialist" going to do any different then the person processing the exchanges over the phone. It's not like they are going to have me take the projector apart and determine the cause of their crappy QA process. or clean out the optics.
> 
> 
> This is just ridiculous and frustrating.
> 
> Anyone else experience anything like this? It can't just be me rightm


I have gone thru 3, it sucks.


----------



## robc1976

badaripanu said:


> Robc1976,
> My apologies for not seeing this sooner. New the forum and did not set something up right I guess and did not receive any notification..plus did not know how to search for my own post.
> 
> Thanks a lot for your response. That really helps a LOT. And explains everything.
> 
> I suspect my Samsung UBD 8500 must be up converting some of my 1080P Youtube videos and Netflix videos. Wish there was a way to turn that off and let the Epson do it...
> 
> thanks again,
> Badari


go to video tab on player, set resolution to 1080P, then turn on 4K enhancement.


----------



## jason_galaxy

burton14e7 said:


> Hey guys, this is my first projector so sorry if this sounds like a dumb question because it probably is. Whenever a black image or dark frames are being projected I can see visible vertical lines across then screen. Is that normal, a brightness setting that I need to tweak or do you have any suggestions on how to remedy the situation?


That doesn't sound normal. Can you post a photo of what you are seeing?


----------



## burton14e7

jason_galaxy said:


> That doesn't sound normal. Can you post a photo of what you are seeing?


Will do when I get home tonight.


----------



## panman40

above1 said:


> So just received a call from a tech. They will be sending me out another new projector to receive tomorrow. I will be sending back 2. Here's to hoping this will be the last one I will need to exchange for a very long time.


Personally I would have given up exchanges before a 5th.


----------



## badaripanu

robc1976 said:


> go to video tab on player, set resolution to 1080P, then turn on 4K enhancement.


I have a Samsung UBD K8500 4K player. So I am sure you did not mean to turn off the 4K on that. 
I have a SONY STRDN 1080 AV player. I am assuming you meant that one. Will do later tonight. Thanks,


----------



## above1

panman40 said:


> Personally I would have given up exchanges before a 5th.


I'm way past returning it to the reseller, Crutchfield in this case. You think Epson is going to cut me a check and call it good?

LB


----------



## welldun

robc1976 said:


> I have gone thru 3, it sucks.


Unfortunately these are mass produced electronics. If you check out the other brands, they too have their share of issues. But be that as it may be, unfortunately your luck has not been good so far. I hope your next one is a gem!

These forums tend to bring out the best and worst in electronics, yet we are only a tiny slice of the pie that makes up their customer base. This doesn't excuse them for sending out sub-par units, but unfortunately its bound to happen.


----------



## panman40

above1 said:


> I'm way past returning it to the reseller, Crutchfield in this case. You think Epson is going to cut me a check and call it good?
> 
> LB


What do you want to do ?, have you asked about calling it a day ?, we have basic rights in the uk, what do you have in the us ?.


----------



## Juiced46

Does anyone know when or if the 5040UB will go back on sale? Last week the price was $200 lower. It looks like it went back up $200 a few days ago from all authorized dealers. It seems to drop in price every so often. My 5025UB just sold so I am ready to buy a 5040UB now. Does anyone know of any vendors that offer price protection? I just do not want to be without a projector for too long. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ac388

'Billy Lynn's long Halftime Walk' UHD 4K Bluray : Since this movie is shot at 60Hz, do anyone know the best setting for 5040 as well as for Oppo 203 ? Or as long as I got the picture on it will be alright, since 5040 only display '8 bit, 4:2:0, BT2020 HDR'.

Thanks in advance !!!


----------



## KevinG

So, my 5010, which I've owned since 2012, I think, developed the "cinema filter motor" problem. I ordered the part to replace it, but it was back-ordered with no ETA. It didn't make much sense to have a dedicated home theater without a projector, so I bit the bullet and purchased a replacement 5040UB. I plan to repair the 5010 and sell it when the part comes in...it's still an excellent projector.

That being said...We recently had an interesting thing happen in our household. The entire family preferred watching movies in the "theater"...until we got an LG OLED 65" in the family room. All parties involved where just blown away with the picture on that thing, and it became the preferred viewing spot...despite the quality difference in the audio system/acoustics of the room, not to mention 65" versus 133" (and about the same viewing distance of about 13 feet)

But, I hung the 5040 last night. Changed the mode to cinema, did a full panel convergence, and was in awe. The blacks are much better, the 4k enhancement seems to really work, and overall, the picture is significantly better. I think this will sway the family back into the theater. I've only tested 1080p blu-rays for now...no immediate plans for 4k since I'd either need to replace the Denon x4000, or find a splitter that will feed 4k to the projector, and audio to the Denon.

I'm quite happy with how it looks calibrated, but I'd appreciate any tips on calibrating for 1080p sources.


----------



## jsrdlr

We are still loving our 6040. It's to the point where we'll apparently be skipping "real" theaters except for a select few movies. Movie night is a blast whether it's just the family or friends are over. It's probably also time that I look at doing some basic calibration to the unit. I've entered the "HarperVision" settings a while back and they did help but sometimes colors still look off. More fun to be had!


----------



## Kadath

KevinG said:


> I bit the bullet and purchased a replacement 5040UB. I plan to repair the 5010 and sell it when the part comes in...it's still an excellent projector.


God luck with that. The internals of the 5000 series are no joke, a lot packed in that space. I had to have a professional do mine. If you are successful post pix!


----------



## KevinG

Kadath said:


> God luck with that. The internals of the 5000 series are no joke, a lot packed in that space. I had to have a professional do mine. If you are successful post pix!


The thread already exists...with pics.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...-error-grinding-noise-red-light-fix-pics.html


----------



## Lesmor

KevinG said:


> So, my 5010, which I've owned since 2012, I think, developed the "cinema filter motor" problem. I ordered the part to replace it, but it was back-ordered with no ETA. It didn't make much sense to have a dedicated home theater without a projector, so I bit the bullet and purchased a replacement 5040UB. I plan to repair the 5010 and sell it when the part comes in...it's still an excellent projector.
> 
> That being said...We recently had an interesting thing happen in our household. The entire family preferred watching movies in the "theater"...until we got an LG OLED 65" in the family room. All parties involved where just blown away with the picture on that thing, and it became the preferred viewing spot...despite the quality difference in the audio system/acoustics of the room, not to mention 65" versus 133" (and about the same viewing distance of about 13 feet)
> 
> But, I hung the 5040 last night. Changed the mode to cinema, did a full panel convergence, and was in awe. The blacks are much better, the 4k enhancement seems to really work, and overall, the picture is significantly better. I think this will sway the family back into the theater. I've only tested 1080p blu-rays for now...no immediate plans for 4k since I'd either need to replace the Denon x4000, or find a splitter that will feed 4k to the projector, and audio to the Denon.
> 
> I'm quite happy with how it looks calibrated, but I'd appreciate any tips on calibrating for 1080p sources.


Start by using Natural mode instead of Cinema for 1080p content


----------



## Oledurt

jsrdlr said:


> We are still loving our 6040. It's to the point where we'll apparently be skipping "real" theaters except for a select few movies. Movie night is a blast whether it's just the family or friends are over. It's probably also time that I look at doing some basic calibration to the unit. I've entered the "HarperVision" settings a while back and they did help but sometimes colors still look off. More fun to be had!




I have not gone to the theater in years...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jsrdlr

Oledurt said:


> I have not gone to the theater in years...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think the only motivation to is to not overhear spoilers on a main movie. I'm sure we'll catch the next Star Wars flick at a theater for that primary reason. Was tempted to see GoftG 2 but was able to hold off. Should be watching it soon


----------



## KevinG

Lesmor said:


> Start by using Natural mode instead of Cinema for 1080p content


Thanks. Is there a justification for this? That was the default setting and it seemed over-bright, maybe washed out a little? I didn't spend much time in that mode though, so maybe it was just the new projector being so much brighter than the old?


----------



## Dave Harper

jsrdlr said:


> We are still loving our 6040. It's to the point where we'll apparently be skipping "real" theaters except for a select few movies. Movie night is a blast whether it's just the family or friends are over. It's probably also time that I look at doing some basic calibration to the unit. *I've entered the "HarperVision" settings a while back and they did help but sometimes colors still look off.* More fun to be had!



Did you calibrate greyscale and CMS?


----------



## jsrdlr

Dave Harper said:


> Did you calibrate greyscale and CMS?


Does what and what answer your question lol? I'll look that up and check it out. In short, I have done zero calibration of any kind.


----------



## burton14e7

jason_galaxy said:


> That doesn't sound normal. Can you post a photo of what you are seeing?


I did some testing last night to get a good picture of the issue and I think it's just the video file. I put up a solid black background for the wallpaper of the HTPC and it's solid black. I play certain video files and I see the vertical bars so it leads me to believe it's just the quality of the file.


----------



## Lesmor

KevinG said:


> Thanks. Is there a justification for this? That was the default setting and it seemed over-bright, maybe washed out a little? I didn't spend much time in that mode though, so maybe it was just the new projector being so much brighter than the old?


Just stick with what you think looks right


----------



## panman40

KevinG said:


> Thanks. Is there a justification for this? That was the default setting and it seemed over-bright, maybe washed out a little? I didn't spend much time in that mode though, so maybe it was just the new projector being so much brighter than the old?


Often displays ootb are setup over bright so to give that initial wow factor, I wish they would stop doing that and offer the most accurate ootb setting.


----------



## Oledurt

Dave Harper said:


> Did you calibrate greyscale and CMS?




this has also been my problem... I wish I had the tools to calibrate greyscale and cms with harpervision.

I just can't get my greyscale and colors dialed in. I revert to my bright cinema settings until I can find a way to get it calibrated.

I think if Harpervision gets dialed in properly it would be great.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

KevinG said:


> Thanks. Is there a justification for this? That was the default setting and it seemed over-bright, maybe washed out a little? I didn't spend much time in that mode though, so maybe it was just the new projector being so much brighter than the old?


I think the justification is more data driven. From what I've learned here, typically, one starts a calibration by identifying the picture mode that starts closest to the D65 white point. I tested all the picture modes on the 5040 and natural was closest to D65 with the default settings. What's strange is that I had to set the color temperature 6000 instead of 6500 to achieve this. This just shows why it's so important to use measurements vs. copying settings.


----------



## Lesmor

KevinG said:


> Thanks. Is there a justification for this? That was the default setting and it seemed over-bright, maybe washed out a little? I didn't spend much time in that mode though, so maybe it was just the new projector being so much brighter than the old?


On my 6040 (9300) Bright Cinema was the default setting
AVForums found Natural to be the closest to D65 and they used 7000 for the colour temperature


----------



## KevinG

jwhn said:


> I think the justification is more data driven. From what I've learned here, typically, one starts a calibration by identifying the picture mode that starts closest to the D65 white point. I tested all the picture modes on the 5040 and natural was closest to D65 with the default settings. What's strange is that I had to set the color temperature 6000 instead of 6500 to achieve this. This just shows why it's so important to use measurements vs. copying settings.





Lesmor said:


> On my 6040 (9300) Bright Cinema was the default setting
> AVForums found Natural to be the closest to D65 and they used 7000 for the colour temperature


Thanks. I spent some time in Natural mode last night. I'm starting to like it. I think my initial reaction was due to how much brighter it was than my old (calibrated) image. The new project (and lamp) is probably responsible for some of that.

Also, the 5040 is MUCH quieter than the 5010, in all cases (the fan, the various motors, etc.).

I do see once odd thing though...Any time the 5040 changes resolution (the HTPC changes output signal), there is a brief flash of a solid green across the bottom 1/3 of the screen...Then 5010 did this invisibly. Anyone else notice such a thing?


----------



## kodt

Those of you with a PS4 Pro, when you enable HDR are you playing at 1080p? Or is there a way to enable 4K and HDR with this projector?


----------



## Steven414

What screens are you guys using with the 5040? I'm researching screens and been reading a lot about smoother screens designed to enhance 4k image. Is this just another sales pitch? Is there really any noticeable difference?


----------



## welldun

Steven414 said:


> What screens are you guys using with the 5040? I'm researching screens and been reading a lot about smoother screens designed to enhance 4k image. Is this just another sales pitch? Is there really any noticeable difference?


I'm using a 100 inch cinewhite from elite screens. the picture looks awesome on it. 
http://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/142


----------



## welldun

Hi Dave Harper,

Can you please take a look at post number 9808 when you have a moment. It is a reply to a question that you asked me, and it also includes a few new questions for you. 

Thanks.


----------



## jwhn

KevinG said:


> Thanks. I spent some time in Natural mode last night. I'm starting to like it. I think my initial reaction was due to how much brighter it was than my old (calibrated) image. The new project (and lamp) is probably responsible for some of that.



You can also change the brightness using the lens iris and / or contrast settings. I like to set max brightness around 14fl because otherwise it starts to hurt my eyes. Making sure that the image does not fry people's retinas is part of the calibration process as well. ; )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris the Rock

kodt said:


> Those of you with a PS4 Pro, when you enable HDR are you playing at 1080p? Or is there a way to enable 4K and HDR with this projector?


Yes, HDR only works at 1080p. This projector is limited to 10.2gbps bandwidth on its HDMI input, which means it can't display 4K with HDR at 60Hz. 4K+HDR+60Hz requires 18gbps bandwidth, according to how I understand things. 

You can do 4K SDR at 60hz, or 1080p HDR at 60hz. But not 4K HDR at 60hz.

There is a table on the very first post in this thread that shows what it can and can't handle.


----------



## oraclation

Steven414 said:


> What screens are you guys using with the 5040? I'm researching screens and been reading a lot about smoother screens designed to enhance 4k image. Is this just another sales pitch? Is there really any noticeable difference?


Falcon Horizon AT screen. It perfectly tames the SDE of the 5040UB when viewing at 1:1 distance, and I get that great THX sound jumping from out of the screen. I retrofitted the Falcon Horizon material to my Carada Criterion 120" 2.35:1 cinemascope frame. I'm happy now.


----------



## burton14e7

Steven414 said:


> What screens are you guys using with the 5040? I'm researching screens and been reading a lot about smoother screens designed to enhance 4k image. Is this just another sales pitch? Is there really any noticeable difference?


I'm using a screen innovations 135" series 5 pure white 1.3 gain. So far my only complaint is that the screen doesn't mount firmly pressed against the wall. When the base hits long and hard, like from music, the screen vibrates.


----------



## sddp

Steven414 said:


> What screens are you guys using with the 5040? I'm researching screens and been reading a lot about smoother screens designed to enhance 4k image. Is this just another sales pitch? Is there really any noticeable difference?


Elite Screen edgefree Cinegrey 3D 1.2 grain 150" and it is STUNNING
Only gripe is I want to get a 180" and they don't make it in cinegrey


----------



## sddp

welldun said:


> I'm using a 100 inch cinewhite from elite screens. the picture looks awesome on it.
> http://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/142


I am considering going cinewhite, have you seen the difference on your screen vs. Elite screens cinegrey?
I have the cinegrey and happy with darker movies like Starwars/Batman, but want to get a larger screen and they do not make cinegrey larger than 150" and not sure what I would be missing. or if the colors would pop out more and I am a HUGE 3D fan and replaced/replacing my entire library to 3D Blu Rays. Not sure if white would make it pop out more as well or not?


----------



## KBone

Any insight or feedback about which receiver would be better to use between my PS4 PRO, Shield, and the 5040? 

I'm looking at these two unless someone else has a better option around this price. 

Sony STRDN1080
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDN10...rd_wg=AFCbn&psc=1&refRID=9DKXV50GADZ8PRJZ5R4X

Denon AVR X3300W
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-X3...rd_wg=vHnfO&psc=1&refRID=CK6XNATFQNTXXEXCFKVN


----------



## welldun

sddp said:


> I am considering going cinewhite, have you seen the difference on your screen vs. Elite screens cinegrey?
> I have the cinegrey and happy with darker movies like Starwars/Batman, but want to get a larger screen and they do not make cinegrey larger than 150" and not sure what I would be missing. or if the colors would pop out more and I am a HUGE 3D fan and replaced/replacing my entire library to 3D Blu Rays. Not sure if white would make it pop out more as well or not?


back in 2007 I made my own screen using a fashion grey laminate. it helped with my older projector Epson EMP-TW700 which was 10,000:1 contrast ratio. I used that setup all the way until this year when I updated both the screen and the projector. 
From everything that I have read and seen, the grey screens help mostly when the contrast ratio is low as well as when the room is not light controlled. If your setup is going to be in a light controlled room, you should see an improvement, more pop from a white screen. However the key is to calibrate the projector for each type of screen. 

Since 3D looks better on a brighter picture, the white screen will give you an edge for that format, especially since 3D glasses tend to darken the picture. Speaking of which, I will be calibrating that mode today in order to watch Guardians of the Galaxy in 3D.


----------



## Steven414

welldun said:


> I'm using a 100 inch cinewhite from elite screens. the picture looks awesome on it.
> http://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/142


After all my research (including responses from this post) this was the screen I pulled the trigger on. It fits my budget. 120 inch Elite Aeon Cinewhite will be delivered tomorrow.


----------



## sddp

Steven414 said:


> After all my research (including responses from this post) this was the screen I pulled the trigger on. It fits my budget. 120 inch Elite Aeon Cinewhite will be delivered tomorrow.


Did you get the Edge free?


----------



## welldun

sddp said:


> Did you get the Edge free?


The Aeon series is their Edge Free line. They do include a thin bezel for those that still want to have the black frame.


----------



## Steven414

welldun said:


> The Aeon series is their Edge Free line. They do include a thin bezel for those that still want to have the black frame.


Yes I did get the edge free, but might still go for the thin bezel.


----------



## sddp

KBone said:


> Any insight or feedback about which receiver would be better to use between my PS4 PRO, Shield, and the 5040?
> 
> I'm looking at these two unless someone else has a better option around this price.
> 
> Sony STRDN1080
> https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDN10...rd_wg=AFCbn&psc=1&refRID=9DKXV50GADZ8PRJZ5R4X
> 
> Denon AVR X3300W
> https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-X3...rd_wg=vHnfO&psc=1&refRID=CK6XNATFQNTXXEXCFKVN


hands down for the Denon!

Different ball game when you use the Denon. Sony did have some amazing receivers/technology for the price back in the 90's. But now days for the money Denon will give a much better sound/picture/features. IMHO Denon is a far a better receiver


----------



## GeneHT

Steven414 said:


> After all my research (including responses from this post) this was the screen I pulled the trigger on. It fits my budget. 120 inch Elite Aeon Cinewhite will be delivered tomorrow.


I am running the following and am very happy with it in a light controlled room.
My throw distance is 18 Feet with the 5040 and it works just great for everything including 3D.

Elite Screens Aeon, 158-inch 2.35:1, 4K Home Theater Fixed Frame EDGE FREE 
Borderless Projection Projector Screen, AR158WH2-WIDE

Size: 2.35:1, 158-inch

CineWhite

Enjoy your new screen


----------



## rmerlano

Pics are welcome


----------



## Steven414

When I first fire up the 5040 (after not using it for several days) the fan kicks on in super high gear for several minutes. I see no image during that period of time. Then the fan backs off to normal speed and the image ignites on the screen. But, if I fire the PJ up tomorrow, it will not go through that same process. This 'high speed fan thing' only happens after an extended period of time of not using the PJ. That's concerning me a bit. Is anyone else experiencing anything this?


----------



## Rpmartinez

Hey Guys,
I've had the 5040ub for about 3 months now and I'm loving it.
Just wondering how some of you are getting Netflix HDR.
I currently have a Roku Ultra connected to the HDCP 2.2 port on the projector.
And from what I understand because of the projector's HDMI chip limitation it can't receive [email protected]
only [email protected]
But, it seems like inorder for HDR to work with Netflix it needs to be @60HZ.

How are you guys watching Netflix HDR?
I don't mind if I have to settle for 1080p HDR..And don't mind if I have to buy a new streaming box or blu ray player with a properly working Netflix app..

Just really want to be ready for season 2 of Stranger Things lol which should hopefully be streaming in HDR.

Thanks


----------



## seplant

Rpmartinez said:


> Hey Guys,
> I've had the 5040ub for about 3 months now and I'm loving it.
> Just wondering how some of you are getting Netflix HDR.
> I currently have a Roku Ultra connected to the HDCP 2.2 port on the projector.
> And from what I understand because of the projector's HDMI chip limitation it can't receive [email protected]
> only [email protected]
> But, it seems like inorder for HDR to work with Netflix it needs to be @60HZ.
> 
> How are you guys watching Netflix HDR?
> I don't mind if I have to settle for 1080p HDR..And don't mind if I have to buy a new streaming box or blu ray player with a properly working Netflix app..
> 
> Just really want to be ready for season 2 of Stranger Things lol which should hopefully be streaming in HDR.
> 
> Thanks


I could be mistaken, but I think the only reliable method of getting Netflix HDR with this projector is by using an Nvidia Shield.


----------



## panman40

Steven414 said:


> When I first fire up the 5040 (after not using it for several days) the fan kicks on in super high gear for several minutes. I see no image during that period of time. Then the fan backs off to normal speed and the image ignites on the screen. But, if I fire the PJ up tomorrow, it will not go through that same process. This 'high speed fan thing' only happens after an extended period of time of not using the PJ. That's concerning me a bit. Is anyone else experiencing anything this?


Completely normal for these epsons, it's totally random on mine although when I first got it it happened quite a lot and once the red lamp led lit up. I asked Epson for a new lamp ( about 300 hrs ago now) and I think it's done it just once since in those hrs.


----------



## dimi123

Rpmartinez said:


> How are you guys watching Netflix HDR?
> I don't mind if I have to settle for 1080p HDR..And don't mind if I have to buy a new streaming box or blu ray player with a properly working Netflix app..
> Thanks


I use the Netflix app on the Samsung UBD-K8500 (4K24Hz, HDR, 4:2:2) without any issues.


----------



## Dave Harper

seplant said:


> I could be mistaken, but I think the only reliable method of getting Netflix HDR with this projector is by using an Nvidia Shield.



Yes because you can set the Shield's output to 24Hz, which is required to get HDR and stay under the 5040's 10.2Gb HDMI input limitation.


----------



## rustolemite

Have a question a out throw distance, I was using a 120" screen at about 12 feet and just setup a 135" screen but the picture won't fill the screen. So after looking at ProjectorCentral and throw distance it looks like I have to move the screen back at least 5 more feet to get the picture to fill the screen.

Is there some setting in the projector I am not using?
So how is it that I see people say they are sitting less than 15 feet from 130 to 150 inch screens?

I know this sounds stupid but if having to move the projector that much further back makes me feel like I am losing the extra screen size that I might as well keep the 120" and have it closer.


----------



## panman40

rustolemite said:


> Have a question a out throw distance, I was using a 120" screen at about 12 feet and just setup a 135" screen but the picture won't fill the screen. So after looking at ProjectorCentral and throw distance it looks like I have to move the screen back at least 5 more feet to get the picture to fill the screen.
> 
> Is there some setting in the projector I am not using?
> So how is it that I see people say they are sitting less than 15 feet from 130 to 150 inch screens?
> 
> I know this sounds stupid but if having to move the projector that much further back makes me feel like I am losing the extra screen size that I might as well keep the 120" and have it closer.


How far you sit from the screen has no relation on screen to projector distance, you need to move the projector back from the bigger screen to allow enough zoom to fill it.

Once you have done that just position your seating the desired distance from your screen.


----------



## rustolemite

panman40 said:


> How far you sit from the screen has no relation on screen to projector distance, you need to move the projector back from the bigger screen to allow enough zoom to fill it.
> 
> Once you have done that just position your seating the desired distance from your screen.


Thanks, kinda what I figured which is what makes it a problem. My living room is my HT room and it the first room you enter so I don't have a alot of room to move my sitting postion but guess will have to make do. 
I really like this AT screen is has allowed me to put my center channel up higher inline with my L/R and the sound is so much better.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## panman40

rustolemite said:


> Thanks, kinda what I figured which is what makes it a problem. My living room is my HT room and it the first room you enter so I don't have a alot of room to move my sitting postion but guess will have to make do.
> I really like this AT screen is has allowed me to put my center channel up higher inline with my L/R and the sound is so much better.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Could you not fix the PJ right back at the back of the room ?. I know it's a hassle and more than likely require a longer HDMI cable.

I know what you mean about the speakers, I have my centre just below the screen but luckily my AVR does a good job of 'lifting' centre ch dialogue.


----------



## burton14e7

I'm settling in with my new projector and figuring out how it works but I came across something last night that has me scratching my head. 

I have my htpc set to 4k 60hz, my only choice on the refresh rate, and when I play YouTube or twitch with 1080p 60 frames per second the projector says it's playing at 30hz. I would think the projector would say 60 hz. Am I just misunderstanding how it works or do you think I have a setting wrong somewhere?


----------



## rustolemite

panman40 said:


> Could you not fix the PJ right back at the back of the room ?. I know it's a hassle and more than likely require a longer HDMI cable.
> 
> I know what you mean about the speakers, I have my centre just below the screen but luckily my AVR does a good job of 'lifting' centre ch dialogue.


The projector is on a shelf on the wall right above me about 4 feet. I will be moving the screen back this afternoon till the picture fits. 
The main problem is that the front door opens right into the room and if I move forward much more people will just about be walking right in on me when they enter the house.
Think I will just have to be happy with the AT screen, its worth it to get the speakers set where they need to be never liked the sitting that far apart on either side of the screen.

Thanks


----------



## rustolemite

burton14e7 said:


> I'm settling in with my new projector and figuring out how it works but I came across something last night that has me scratching my head.
> 
> I have my htpc set to 4k 60hz, my only choice on the refresh rate, and when I play YouTube or twitch with 1080p 60 frames per second the projector says it's playing at 30hz. I would think the projector would say 60 hz. Am I just misunderstanding how it works or do you think I have a setting wrong somewhere?


I am using a GTX1060 Nvidia card and I am at 3840x2160 24hz it works fine.


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> Yes because you can set the Shield's output to 24Hz, which is required to get HDR and stay under the 5040's 10.2Gb HDMI input limitation.




I can confirm as a shield owner but one limitation is that the Netflix app does not support 4K at 24p. So you can watch HDR (at 24p) or 4K (at 60p) but not HDR and 4K at the same time. The Amazon app does not have this limitation.

So ironically, I think the only way to stream Netflix in HDR (AND 4K) is through the UHD players. I think most or all of them now support that for Netflix.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

rustolemite said:


> The projector is on a shelf on the wall right above me about 4 feet. I will be moving the screen back this afternoon till the picture fits.
> The main problem is that the front door opens right into the room and if I move forward much more people will just about be walking right in on me when they enter the house.
> Think I will just have to be happy with the AT screen, its worth it to get the speakers set where they need to be never liked the sitting that far apart on either side of the screen.
> 
> Thanks


Oh I see, that makes sense. If you have the scope for shifting the screen forwards that's good. I am restricted to my seating due to a fireplace and my surround speakers, otherwise I would move in another 3-4 feet especially for 3D.


----------



## burton14e7

rustolemite said:


> I am using a GTX1060 Nvidia card and I am at 3840x2160 24hz it works fine.


I'm also using a GTX1060. Where do you set the refresh rate to 24hz? In the Nvidia control panel I only have 60hz in the drop down. When I try to make a custom resolution I also can't set the refresh lower than 59.000.


----------



## Oledurt

From now on I will be using my ISF calibrated Bright Cinema settings for HDR, and here is why...

I have tried every way you can think to use Digital Cinema for the P3 Colorspace, but to no avail. There simply is not enough brightness. It can be calibrated for HDR but the over all picture will be too dark.

I also realized some things about the P3 colorspace in Digital Cinema. You are theoretically getting more colors, but not really. Due to the lack of brightness those colors clip at about 380 nits on the R. Masciola clipping patterns.

You can reduce the dynamic range using gamma correction and get the wider colors, but than you negate HDR.

in bright cinema you actually get MORE color and HDR, because the colors actually clip later due to double the brightness of digital cinema.

With my bright cinema settings you get a very respectable HDR image. Greyscale clips at around 415 nits, and the colors clip at 400 nits. 

Not bad for a projector. Colors are much brighter, contrast is great especially with auto iris set to normal. The HDR really shines through with lights, god rays, specular highlights. Shadows are present with great detail. 

You can see through the shadows and see details missing on blu ray.

In my humble opinion, when it comes to HDR. Bright Cinema with HDR 1 is the way to go. If you hire a calibrator or do it yourself this is the mode you should use for HDR.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> From now on I will be using my ISF calibrated Bright Cinema settings for HDR, and here is why...
> 
> I have tried every way you can think to use Digital Cinema for the P3 Colorspace, but to no avail. There simply is not enough brightness. It can be calibrated for HDR but the over all picture will be too dark.
> 
> I also realized some things about the P3 colorspace in Digital Cinema. You are theoretically getting more colors, but not really. Due to the lack of brightness those colors clip at about 380 nits on the R. Masciola clipping patterns.
> 
> You can reduce the dynamic range using gamma correction and get the wider colors, but than you negate HDR.
> 
> in bright cinema you actually get MORE color and HDR, because the colors actually clip later due to double the brightness of digital cinema.
> 
> With my bright cinema settings you get a very respectable HDR image. Greyscale clips at around 415 nits, and the colors clip at 400 nits.
> 
> Not bad for a projector. Colors are much brighter, contrast is great especially with auto iris set to normal. The HDR really shines through with lights, god rays, specular highlights. Shadows are present with great detail.
> 
> You can see through the shadows and see details missing on blu ray.
> 
> In my humble opinion, when it comes to HDR. Bright Cinema with HDR 1 is the way to go. If you hire a calibrator or do it yourself this is the mode you should use for HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hi oledurt,

I think I asked you a few pages back, do you find that black levels are not quite as good in bright cinema due to not having the darkening of the P3 filter ?.

After not being totally happy with the last HDR film we watched I'm going to start over using bright cinema, it's what I used when I first got my Epson.

I'm beginning to think with UHD/HDR on a projector it's all about using a mode and settings that make a watchable image rather than agheering to strict rules.


----------



## jasinviso2000

Do you think any of these settings will work on the Epson 4000? I realize it uses different panels, but seems to have a lot in common with the Epson 5040, including its weakness accepting hdr.


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Oledurt said:


> From now on I will be using my ISF calibrated Bright Cinema settings for HDR, and here is why...
> 
> I have tried every way you can think to use Digital Cinema for the P3 Colorspace, but to no avail. There simply is not enough brightness. It can be calibrated for HDR but the over all picture will be too dark.
> 
> I also realized some things about the P3 colorspace in Digital Cinema. You are theoretically getting more colors, but not really. Due to the lack of brightness those colors clip at about 380 nits on the R. Masciola clipping patterns.
> 
> You can reduce the dynamic range using gamma correction and get the wider colors, but than you negate HDR.
> 
> in bright cinema you actually get MORE color and HDR, because the colors actually clip later due to double the brightness of digital cinema.
> 
> With my bright cinema settings you get a very respectable HDR image. Greyscale clips at around 415 nits, and the colors clip at 400 nits.
> 
> Not bad for a projector. Colors are much brighter, contrast is great especially with auto iris set to normal. The HDR really shines through with lights, god rays, specular highlights. Shadows are present with great detail.
> 
> You can see through the shadows and see details missing on blu ray.
> 
> In my humble opinion, when it comes to HDR. Bright Cinema with HDR 1 is the way to go. If you hire a calibrator or do it yourself this is the mode you should use for HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


After extensive comparisons, I agree with you completely.


----------



## Lesmor

A clue might lie in Bright Cinema being the ootb default setting


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> Hi oledurt,
> 
> 
> 
> I think I asked you a few pages back, do you find that black levels are not quite as good in bright cinema due to not having the darkening of the P3 filter ?.
> 
> 
> 
> After not being totally happy with the last HDR film we watched I'm going to start over using bright cinema, it's what I used when I first got my Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm beginning to think with UHD/HDR on a projector it's all about using a mode and settings that make a watchable image rather than agheering to strict rules.




No. If the brightness is set properly the black levels are really good. I see no difference between the two modes. The projector needs Auto Iris set to on to get the best blacks.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## KevinG

I went through a basic manual calibration (JKP's DVE) yesterday. Regular SDR, not HDR. I found that I ended up with contrast pretty darn low (35ish range) in order to avoid white clipping. Then I noticed how the auto-iris was affecting things depending on which pattern I was using to set contrast. (Using the AVS709 disc, one pattern is full white, and another is only white on the top and bottom). So, is it best to set contrast with the auto-iris turned off, or set it to fast and let it settle? Or maybe leave it in normal? 

Thoughts?

Thanks.


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> panman40 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi oledurt,
> 
> 
> 
> I think I asked you a few pages back, do you find that black levels are not quite as good in bright cinema due to not having the darkening of the P3 filter ?.
> 
> 
> 
> After not being totally happy with the last HDR film we watched I'm going to start over using bright cinema, it's what I used when I first got my Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm beginning to think with UHD/HDR on a projector it's all about using a mode and settings that make a watchable image rather than agheering to strict rules.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No. If the brightness is set properly the black levels are really good. I see no difference between the two modes. The projector needs Auto Iris set to on to get the best blacks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks,Yep that makes sense, I'm a little succeptible to noise though which renders the auto iris redundant for me. I'm going to watch Life this evening and will use bright cinema.


----------



## panman40

KevinG said:


> I went through a basic manual calibration (JKP's DVE) yesterday. Regular SDR, not HDR. I found that I ended up with contrast pretty darn low (35ish range) in order to avoid white clipping. Then I noticed how the auto-iris was affecting things depending on which pattern I was using to set contrast. (Using the AVS709 disc, one pattern is full white, and another is only white on the top and bottom). So, is it best to set contrast with the auto-iris turned off, or set it to fast and let it settle? Or maybe leave it in normal?
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks.


Features like dynamic Iris etc are not part of any industry standards and will cause all manner of anomalies with varying test patterns, IMO it's best to leave them off for calibration, once done then turn them on if you find them helpful.


----------



## Oledurt

KevinG said:


> I went through a basic manual calibration (JKP's DVE) yesterday. Regular SDR, not HDR. I found that I ended up with contrast pretty darn low (35ish range) in order to avoid white clipping. Then I noticed how the auto-iris was affecting things depending on which pattern I was using to set contrast. (Using the AVS709 disc, one pattern is full white, and another is only white on the top and bottom). So, is it best to set contrast with the auto-iris turned off, or set it to fast and let it settle? Or maybe leave it in normal?
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.




Also remember if you have to set your contrast low you are also reducing the dynamic range. Adjusting your gamma (greyscale) first will help.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## KevinG

Oledurt said:


> Also remember if you have to set your contrast low you are also reducing the dynamic range. Adjusting your gamma (greyscale) first will help.


Yes, I noticed the big loss in dynamic range with contrast that low...which is the main reason I posted the question. Adjusting gamma requires a meter, correct? If so, I may try to go down that path.... I do have a Spyder, and I see that some of the free calibration tools do support it.


----------



## Lesmor

KevinG said:


> Yes, I noticed the big loss in dynamic range with contrast that low...which is the main reason I posted the question. Adjusting gamma requires a meter, correct? If so, I may try to go down that path.... I do have a Spyder, and I see that some of the free calibration tools do support it.


Did you turn superwhite On for SDR?
It completely changes clipping compared to superwhite Off


----------



## Oledurt

Lesmor said:


> Did you turn superwhite On for SDR?
> 
> It completely changes clipping compared to superwhite Off




It also reduces dynamic range.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## KevinG

Lesmor said:


> Did you turn superwhite On for SDR?
> It completely changes clipping compared to superwhite Off


Haven't stumbled upon that setting yet, so I didn't change it...Don't know if it defaults to on or off.



Oledurt said:


> It also reduces dynamic range.


I suspect this means that I want it off?


----------



## panman40

KevinG said:


> Lesmor said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you turn superwhite On for SDR?
> It completely changes clipping compared to superwhite Off
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't stumbled upon that setting yet, so I didn't change it...Don't know if it defaults to on or off.
> 
> 
> 
> Oledurt said:
> 
> 
> 
> It also reduces dynamic range.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I suspect this means that I want it off?
Click to expand...

It only reduces dynamic range until you adjust contrast control for clipping correctly, Off needs reduced contrast compared to On. 
That's imo after 450 hrs of use and messing around with calibration.


----------



## Lesmor

KevinG said:


> Haven't stumbled upon that setting yet, so I didn't change it...Don't know if it defaults to on or off.
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect this means that I want it off?


Looks like it is a personal choice
Default is Off
Try it and see
Off whites are clipped around 234
On and the the contrast range increases to 255
AVSHD Rec.709 suggests either keeping full range or adjusting clipping to 244
This is for SDR only


----------



## Oledurt

www.projectorreviews.com

allegedly this website has done a new ISF calibration for HDR on this projector.

I have been waiting for it to be posted, but they have yet to do so.

Just FYI.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

KevinG said:


> I went through a basic manual calibration (JKP's DVE) yesterday. Regular SDR, not HDR. I found that I ended up with contrast pretty darn low (35ish range) in order to avoid white clipping. Then I noticed how the auto-iris was affecting things depending on which pattern I was using to set contrast. (Using the AVS709 disc, one pattern is full white, and another is only white on the top and bottom). So, is it best to set contrast with the auto-iris turned off, or set it to fast and let it settle? Or maybe leave it in normal?
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Yes auto Iris should be off for calibrations. 




Oledurt said:


> From now on I will be using my ISF calibrated Bright Cinema settings for HDR, and here is why...
> 
> I have tried every way you can think to use Digital Cinema for the P3 Colorspace, but to no avail. There simply is not enough brightness. It can be calibrated for HDR but the over all picture will be too dark.
> 
> I also realized some things about the P3 colorspace in Digital Cinema. You are theoretically getting more colors, but not really. Due to the lack of brightness those colors clip at about 380 nits on the R. Masciola clipping patterns.
> 
> You can reduce the dynamic range using gamma correction and get the wider colors, but than you negate HDR.
> 
> in bright cinema you actually get MORE color and HDR, because the colors actually clip later due to double the brightness of digital cinema.
> 
> With my bright cinema settings you get a very respectable HDR image. Greyscale clips at around 415 nits, and the colors clip at 400 nits.
> 
> Not bad for a projector. Colors are much brighter, contrast is great especially with auto iris set to normal. The HDR really shines through with lights, god rays, specular highlights. Shadows are present with great detail.
> 
> You can see through the shadows and see details missing on blu ray.
> 
> In my humble opinion, when it comes to HDR. Bright Cinema with HDR 1 is the way to go. If you hire a calibrator or do it yourself this is the mode you should use for HDR.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Great info once again Oledurt! I wish I had one still to mess around more. My LS10500 is similar though, so maybe I'll play with it and see how it reacts. 

One thing to try with Digital Cinema though, and it isn't technically correct but I think it may be very helpful when it comes to projectors and HDR, is to set Dynamic Range to FULL from Limited. You'll need to reset your black and white levels, but I'm pretty sure you'll also see the clipped colors expand out for you, similar to what you're seeing with Bright Cinema. 

It could cause other anomalies that preclude using FULL, but may be worth checking out for testing at least. I've gone back and forth while testing with this setting and in some instances it seems to really help but then my ISF OCD kicks in and I change it back!


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> Also remember if you have to set your contrast low you are also reducing the dynamic range. Adjusting your gamma (greyscale) first will help.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



You're supposed to set brightness and contrast first before any greyscale calibrations, then go back and recheck and reset if needed. If black and white are at the correct levels and greyscale is done, then your dynamic range should be exactly where it needs to be, but yes if you change only one of the items like reduce contrast or increase brightness then you're effectively reducing your total dynamic range.


----------



## welldun

Oledurt said:


> From now on I will be using my ISF calibrated Bright Cinema settings for HDR, and here is why...
> 
> I have tried every way you can think to use Digital Cinema for the P3 Colorspace, but to no avail. There simply is not enough brightness. It can be calibrated for HDR but the over all picture will be too dark.
> 
> I also realized some things about the P3 colorspace in Digital Cinema. You are theoretically getting more colors, but not really. Due to the lack of brightness those colors clip at about 380 nits on the R. Masciola clipping patterns.
> 
> You can reduce the dynamic range using gamma correction and get the wider colors, but than you negate HDR.
> 
> in bright cinema you actually get MORE color and HDR, because the colors actually clip later due to double the brightness of digital cinema.
> 
> With my bright cinema settings you get a very respectable HDR image. Greyscale clips at around 415 nits, and the colors clip at 400 nits.
> 
> Not bad for a projector. Colors are much brighter, contrast is great especially with auto iris set to normal. The HDR really shines through with lights, god rays, specular highlights. Shadows are present with great detail.
> 
> You can see through the shadows and see details missing on blu ray.
> 
> In my humble opinion, when it comes to HDR. Bright Cinema with HDR 1 is the way to go. If you hire a calibrator or do it yourself this is the mode you should use for HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Just curious if you tried running the digital cinema calibration with the power consumption set to High in order to get some additional brightness? also curious if you are using the R.Masciola patterns with special equipment or by eye? 

I'm thinking about picking up the HDR-10 disc that R.Masciola will be releasing, but I'm not sure if it needs to be used with special measuring equipment. In my opinion any calibration, be it ISF equipment or done eye with a disc, is temporary due to our lamp based projectors. eventually the brightness of the lamp will fade an it will change the quality of the picture, so at that point a new calibration would be needed. This can get expensive if you have to do another ISF calibration, so for me a disc makes economical sense.


----------



## Oledurt

welldun said:


> Just curious if you tried running the digital cinema calibration with the power consumption set to High in order to get some additional brightness? also curious if you are using the R.Masciola patterns with special equipment or by eye?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about picking up the HDR-10 disc that R.Masciola will be releasing, but I'm not sure if it needs to be used with special measuring equipment. In my opinion any calibration, be it ISF equipment or done eye with a disc, is temporary due to our lamp based projectors. eventually the brightness of the lamp will fade an it will change the quality of the picture, so at that point a new calibration would be needed. This can get expensive if you have to do another ISF calibration, so for me a disc makes economical sense.




I have the lamp set to high in digital cinema. You don't need equipment for the basic patterns I am talking about. There are also patterns in the suite for calibrators.

As far as your assertions that ISF calibrations are not worth it due to lamp aging I strongly disagree. Over time the lamp will age and eventually need to be replaced.

How much it changes the quality of the picture, and whether it will be noticeable is debatable. Sure testing equipment may show a shift here and there, but it is not perceived by your eye. 

Of course if the picture degrades to a point you can see it...buy a new lamp.

When a bulb burns out in your house, and you replace it with the exact same bulb is there any kind of noticeable change to your eye?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

Oledurt said:


> I have the lamp set to high in digital cinema. You don't need equipment for the basic patterns I am talking about. There are also patterns in the suite for calibrators.
> 
> As far as your assertions that ISF calibrations are not worth it due to lamp aging I strongly disagree. Over time the lamp will age and eventually need to be replaced.
> 
> How much it changes the quality of the picture, and whether it will be noticeable is debatable. Sure testing equipment may show a shift here and there, but it is not perceived by your eye.
> 
> Of course if the picture degrades to a point you can see it...buy a new lamp.
> 
> When a bulb burns out in your house, and you replace it with the exact same bulb is there any kind of noticeable change to your eye?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


different type of bulb at home vs projector.

Nonetheless, I didn't say that the ISF calibrations were not worth doing, what said was that for ME the practice of having to re-calibrate that way everytime the buld fades could get expense, especially if we are shooting to get specific numbers via instrumentation.

My last projector (Epson EMP-TW700) which i bought in in 2007 was just replaced by this 5040ub. I bought a few bulbs during that time span and with every change in bulb I also had to adjust/tweak the settings. If I had done an ISF calibration at each of those changes and again when the bulbs hit 50% brightness, it would have been an expensive endeavor (for me at least). That's the reason why I would prefer to get a good calibration disc that I can use on the fly when necessary, much like you're currently doing with the R. Masciola patterns even after getting the ISF calibration.


----------



## Oledurt

welldun said:


> different type of bulb at home vs projector.
> 
> 
> 
> Nonetheless, I didn't say that the ISF calibrations were not worth doing, what said was that for ME the practice of having to re-calibrate that way everytime the buld fades could get expense, especially if we are shooting to get specific numbers via instrumentation.
> 
> 
> 
> My last projector (Epson EMP-TW700) which i bought in in 2007 was just replaced by this 5040ub. I bought a few bulbs during that time span and with every change in bulb I also had to adjust/tweak the settings. If I had done an ISF calibration at each of those changes and again when the bulbs hit 50% brightness, it would have been an expensive endeavor (for me at least). That's the reason why I would prefer to get a good calibration disc that I can use on the fly when necessary, much like you're currently doing with the R. Masciola patterns even after getting the ISF calibration.




ok...

I took Dave's suggestion and tried expanded video range in bright cinema...I had to tweak brightness and contrast. The results are that both the greyscale and colors are now extending to 1000 nits before clipping.

I need to view some more material to see how the dynamic range is affected. I'll report back.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## joy192k

Dear friends,

I seriously need some help, I would appreciate someone who could reply, I am looking forward to buy this projector and I have been following this thread very closely, even the best minds and experienced folks are constantly tweaking and trying to get the picture right. I don't think I have the time or patience or even knowledge for this type of calibration before every movie. 

Do you think I can enjoy a good picture just out of the box or this is for more expert AV users who know how to get the picture sweet perfect? I have learnt that HDR on projector is not ready yet, may WCG but not HDR, is this projector still worth the money?

I would really appreciate a honest answer 

/VJ


----------



## burton14e7

joy192k said:


> Dear friends,
> 
> I seriously need some help, I would appreciate someone who could reply, I am looking forward to buy this projector and I have been following this thread very closely, even the best minds and experienced folks are constantly tweaking and trying to get the picture right. I don't think I have the time or patience or even knowledge for this type of calibration before every movie.
> 
> Do you think I can enjoy a good picture just out of the box or this is for more expert AV users who know how to get the picture sweet perfect? I have learnt that HDR on projector is not ready yet, may WCG but not HDR, is this projector still worth the money?
> 
> I would really appreciate a honest answer
> 
> /VJ


Well it's my first projector and I've had it for just two weeks now and I personally have been really enjoying it out of the box. I did apply Dave Harpers SDR settings from the following link after I had been using it for a few days and was accustomed to the menu. However I think it looked good with out the settings too.

http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf


----------



## Chris the Rock

Oledurt said:


> www.projectorreviews.com
> 
> allegedly this website has done a new ISF calibration for HDR on this projector.
> 
> I have been waiting for it to be posted, but they have yet to do so.
> 
> Just FYI.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Curious. How do you know this? I'm asking because if you read it somewhere on the internet, I'd like to be looking in the same places.

Thanks for your contribution to this discussion.


----------



## Oledurt

Chris the Rock said:


> Curious. How do you know this? I'm asking because if you read it somewhere on the internet, I'd like to be looking in the same places.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your contribution to this discussion.





Art posted 2 or 3 weeks back in this thread telling everyone they had done a new calibration. I asked him at his website, and he confirmed they had done a new calibration but it has not been posted yet.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris the Rock

Oledurt said:


> Art posted 2 or 3 weeks back in this thread telling everyone they had done a new calibration. I asked him at his website, and he confirmed they had done a new calibration but it has not been posted yet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Cool, thanks!


----------



## gacomeau

Can someone suggest which HD Fury device (or cheaper alternative) would be best suited for my aging receiver, PS4 Pro, Xbox One S and this projector. I'll be mostly playing video games and watching 4K Netflix and Amazon Prime video.

I have a Yamaha RX-V377 which I plan on using only for audio. It doesn't support HDCP 2.2, is limited to [email protected] and has only one optical input. 

I plan on sending the consoles HDMI cables through the switching device with an optical output to the receiver and the HDMI output to the projector's HDMI 2.0 input.

I know some folks on here have reported good results with the HD Fury, but wondering which model would be best and whether something less expensive would meet my needs.

Thanks


----------



## ht guy

joy192k said:


> Dear friends,
> 
> I seriously need some help, I would appreciate someone who could reply, I am looking forward to buy this projector and I have been following this thread very closely, even the best minds and experienced folks are constantly tweaking and trying to get the picture right. I don't think I have the time or patience or even knowledge for this type of calibration before every movie.
> 
> Do you think I can enjoy a good picture just out of the box or this is for more expert AV users who know how to get the picture sweet perfect? I have learnt that HDR on projector is not ready yet, may WCG but not HDR, is this projector still worth the money?
> 
> I would really appreciate a honest answer
> 
> /VJ


Personally, I don't think you can get better picture quality for the money. If you look at the threads for the other projectors, you'll likely find similar amounts of tweaking, complaining, etc.

Whether the 5040 or competitor:

Plan A: (highly recommended)
Pay $3-500 and get a professional calibration.

Plan B: (a good alternative for $0)
Set up two memory banks (not difficult) with settings for 1) standard Blu-Ray and 2) 4k, using your choice of the settings from users here (captured in the link above.)

The "catch" is that your room, screen & lighting conditions may require different settings that won't be captured in Plan B.

No special technical knowledge or tweaking required. And the picture is stunning. Once you see standard blu-rays with the 5040, you'll be asking how much more could 4k add?


----------



## KevinG

Dave Harper said:


> You're supposed to set brightness and contrast first before any greyscale calibrations, then go back and recheck and reset if needed. If black and white are at the correct levels and greyscale is done, then your dynamic range should be exactly where it needs to be, but yes if you change only one of the items like reduce contrast or increase brightness then you're effectively reducing your total dynamic range.


Am I correct that setting greyscale require a meter? I don't think I've seen a way to do it manually (other than by eye [hmm, that patch looks a bit pink], but that seems like a long shot)


----------



## jwhn

joy192k said:


> Dear friends,
> 
> I seriously need some help, I would appreciate someone who could reply, I am looking forward to buy this projector and I have been following this thread very closely, even the best minds and experienced folks are constantly tweaking and trying to get the picture right. I don't think I have the time or patience or even knowledge for this type of calibration before every movie.
> 
> Do you think I can enjoy a good picture just out of the box or this is for more expert AV users who know how to get the picture sweet perfect? I have learnt that HDR on projector is not ready yet, may WCG but not HDR, is this projector still worth the money?
> 
> I would really appreciate a honest answer
> 
> /VJ



90% of what I watch is SDR. And for this content, the projector is excellent and it's not difficult at all to get a great picture. A lot of the back and forth you are reading has to do with trying to get HDR on the projector. If HDR is a high priority for you, then you might consider something other than a projector. 

But I think you will hear most people here say they are satisfied overall. It's just that HDR on projectors is early adopter territory and that is what you are seeing in this thread.


----------



## joy192k

ht guy said:


> Personally, I don't think you can get better picture quality for the money. If you look at the threads for the other projectors, you'll likely find similar amounts of tweaking, complaining, etc.
> 
> Whether the 5040 or competitor:
> 
> Plan A: (highly recommended)
> Pay $3-500 and get a professional calibration.
> 
> Plan B: (a good alternative for $0)
> Set up two memory banks (not difficult) with settings for 1) standard Blu-Ray and 2) 4k, using your choice of the settings from users here (captured in the link above.)
> 
> The "catch" is that your room, screen & lighting conditions may require different settings that won't be captured in Plan B.
> 
> No special technical knowledge or tweaking required. And the picture is stunning. Once you see standard blu-rays with the 5040, you'll be asking how much more could 4k add?


Thank you for your response, I have the Epson 4000 at hand but it wasn't up-to the mark compared to the Sony 45es, that's why I was wondering if the extra $1K is gonna "blow me away" with its PQ, can you please tell me if 4K is the real deal?


----------



## joy192k

jwhn said:


> 90% of what I watch is SDR. And for this content, the projector is excellent and it's not difficult at all to get a great picture. A lot of the back and forth you are reading has to do with trying to get HDR on the projector. If HDR is a high priority for you, then you might consider something other than a projector.
> 
> But I think you will hear most people here say they are satisfied overall. It's just that HDR on projectors is early adopter territory and that is what you are seeing in this thread.


Thanks for your response, If it is just SDR similar to my case ( I don't have 4K collection yet so it will be very well lot of Blurays till I build my collection of 4k) I could very well do with the Sony 45es which I am currently comparing against, what tilts in the favor for 5040, it is 1K more over the 45es that's what I am debating in my mind.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Oledurt said:


> From now on I will be using my ISF calibrated Bright Cinema settings for HDR, and here is why...
> 
> I have tried every way you can think to use Digital Cinema for the P3 Colorspace, but to no avail. There simply is not enough brightness. It can be calibrated for HDR but the over all picture will be too dark.
> 
> I also realized some things about the P3 colorspace in Digital Cinema. You are theoretically getting more colors, but not really. Due to the lack of brightness those colors clip at about 380 nits on the R. Masciola clipping patterns.
> 
> You can reduce the dynamic range using gamma correction and get the wider colors, but than you negate HDR.
> 
> in bright cinema you actually get MORE color and HDR, because the colors actually clip later due to double the brightness of digital cinema.
> 
> With my bright cinema settings you get a very respectable HDR image. Greyscale clips at around 415 nits, and the colors clip at 400 nits.
> 
> Not bad for a projector. Colors are much brighter, contrast is great especially with auto iris set to normal. The HDR really shines through with lights, god rays, specular highlights. Shadows are present with great detail.
> 
> You can see through the shadows and see details missing on blu ray.
> 
> In my humble opinion, when it comes to HDR. Bright Cinema with HDR 1 is the way to go. If you hire a calibrator or do it yourself this is the mode you should use for HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I concur.
I did the same this weekend. Tried HV+Oledurt mod on Digital Cinema, compared that with Bright Cinema (HCFR calibrated to as much close as possible)+Oledurt Gamma for BC and the later still looks much better.
I tried (and always try) the "Desserts" episode from Planet Earth II UHD. The fur on those animals that pop in BC combo is just unreal.
Yes. I am staying with BC for HDR. Thank you for that gamma.


----------



## GeneHT

ht guy said:


> Personally, I don't think you can get better picture quality for the money. If you look at the threads for the other projectors, you'll likely find similar amounts of tweaking, complaining, etc.
> 
> Whether the 5040 or competitor:
> 
> Plan A: (highly recommended)
> Pay $3-500 and get a professional calibration.
> 
> Plan B: (a good alternative for $0)
> Set up two memory banks (not difficult) with settings for 1) standard Blu-Ray and 2) 4k, using your choice of the settings from users here (captured in the link above.)
> 
> The "catch" is that your room, screen & lighting conditions may require different settings that won't be captured in Plan B.
> 
> No special technical knowledge or tweaking required. And the picture is stunning. Once you see standard blu-rays with the 5040, you'll be asking how much more could 4k add?


You are correct in seeing what the 5040 does to standard Blue Rays. I purchased some 4Ks and some 3Ds to see how they looked and after seeing what the 5040 does to the standard Blue Rays I now go to Walmart and look through the $6.00 Blue Ray Box, no point in spending extra money on the 4Ks. Some day when they come out with a native 4K projector that has a good price than it will be time to maybe move up, but for now the 5040 does a great job with the Blue Rays on my 155 inch screen and I see no point in spending the extra money.


----------



## panman40

KevinG said:


> Am I correct that setting greyscale require a meter? I don't think I've seen a way to do it manually (other than by eye [hmm, that patch looks a bit pink], but that seems like a long shot)


Yes a meter and software is needed for setting greyscale, if you have an overall tint to whites such as pink you can try dropping red-gain down a few clicks but it will not be very accurate.


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> ok...
> 
> I took Dave's suggestion and tried expanded video range in bright cinema...I had to tweak brightness and contrast. The results are that both the greyscale and colors are now extending to 1000 nits before clipping.
> 
> I need to view some more material to see how the dynamic range is affected. I'll report back.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Just out of curiosity what is the difference between your 2 brightness settings with HDMI video range normal and expanded ?. Also when using expanded are you detecting any increase in the black floor ?.


----------



## Juiced46

panman40 said:


> Yes a meter and software is needed for setting greyscale, if you have an overall tint to whites such as pink you can try dropping red-gain down a few clicks but it will not be very accurate.


What kind of meter and software is needed to do this? Roughly what is the cost of this stuff?


----------



## panman40

Juiced46 said:


> What kind of meter and software is needed to do this? Roughly what is the cost of this stuff?


I use an i1D3 X-rite which was approx £160, ChromaPure software which was £99 for the licence fee but probably changed a little by now. Some use HCFR which is free but I have no knowleadge of that s/w.


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> Just out of curiosity what is the difference between your 2 brightness settings with HDMI video range normal and expanded ?. Also when using expanded are you detecting any increase in the black floor ?.




Expanded does increase the black floor. I had to turn my brightness down about 12 clicks. The dynamic range gets reduced so I use normal.

With a new calibration, and gamma curve expanded might work well. I am sticking to normal for now.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> panman40 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity what is the difference between your 2 brightness settings with HDMI video range normal and expanded ?. Also when using expanded are you detecting any increase in the black floor ?.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Expanded does increase the black floor. I had to turn my brightness down about 12 clicks. The dynamic range gets reduced so I use normal.
> 
> With a new calibration, and gamma curve expanded might work well. I am sticking to normal for now.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Sorry I did mean the black floor after you had readjusted brightness , I think your probably wise to stick with normal tbh.
Thanks.


----------



## joy192k

GeneHT said:


> You are correct in seeing what the 5040 does to standard Blue Rays. I purchased some 4Ks and some 3Ds to see how they looked and after seeing what the 5040 does to the standard Blue Rays I now go to Walmart and look through the $6.00 Blue Ray Box, no point in spending extra money on the 4Ks. Some day when they come out with a native 4K projector that has a good price than it will be time to maybe move up, but for now the 5040 does a great job with the Blue Rays on my 155 inch screen and I see no point in spending the extra money.


This brings interesting twist, so to say with 4K up scaling - you enjoy best SDR image possible even better than the Sony - I do acknowledge 4K does sharpen and bring more detail to the table. I think I will stay put till CEDIA and decide later if 5040 comes bit lower into my budget of around 2K  I am saying this because I know I would eventually need the Oppo or Panny for another 500 bucks, It's not that I can't afford it, it is like do I really need to spend that money 

/VJ


----------



## chachanyc

i currentl using a 106 inch gray glass beaded 1.8 gain screen and my picture looks fantastic Does a white screen with a lower gain improve picture quality in a light controlled room?


----------



## jason_galaxy

aaranddeeman said:


> .
> I tried (and always try) the "Desserts" episode from Planet Earth II UHD. The fur on those animals that pop in


I've found PEII to look good on just about any setting   

It is mastered much brighter than all other HDR discs I have tried, so how do those curves look on,
say, the Revenant? 

I can't test right now, my Sony ubp-x800 had go go back for exchange (too many lock ups)


----------



## panman40

jason_galaxy said:


> I've found PEII to look good on just about any setting
> 
> It is mastered much brighter than all other HDR discs I have tried, so how do those curves look on,
> say, the Revenant?
> 
> I can't test right now, my Sony ubp-x800 had go go back for exchange (too many lock ups)



Agreed, bright shot HDR is fine, it's those more taxing very dark discs that are troublesome.


----------



## rmerlano

*5020UB vs 5040UB*

Someone of you did the jump from 5020UB to 5040UB?
Can you share your experiences?


----------



## badaripanu

robc1976 said:


> go to video tab on player, set resolution to 1080P, then turn on 4K enhancement.


Thanks. It works.
I guess when I play 4K Bluray disks, I have to change the Bluray output to 2160p..
Badari


----------



## Duddits

This has happen to my Epson Tw9300. The lamp has 639 hours on it and I have only had mine for 2 months. I also use it as a Tv.
One stuck blue pixel and one dust blob (hard to see on my Dnp 08-85 screen, but when held a white paper the green became visible). 
But the service has been good so far, just one day shipping from Sweden to England via Dhl express.


----------



## go4two

*Help! 4K Not working*

Hi, I just finished up building my first home theater. I have everything working great, but for some reason I can't get my Sony 4K Blu-ray to output a 4K signal into my Yamaha receiver and then up into the Epson 4040 projector? When I play a normal Blu-ray DVD, it will upscale to 4K just fine, but when I put in an actual 4K DVD (Warcraft), it shows 1080p/24P coming out of the Blu-ray?


Any thoughts? I posted this in the Yamaha 2070 forum and the suggested I come here and ask. Can someone walk me through what I need to do to set up my equipment so that an actual 4K DVD gets passed through properly to my Epson? 


thanks!






Paradigm Prestige 75F
Paradigm 45C 
Paradigm Monitor Sub 12
Paradigm Monitor Sub 10
4 Paradigm CI Home H65-R (ATMOS)
2 Paradigm CI Home H65-A (Rear)
Yamaha Adventage RX-A 2070
Sony UBP-X800 Ultra HD Blu-ray
Epson Pro Cinema 4040 3LCD Projector


----------



## PioManiac

go4two said:


> Hi, I just finished up building my first home theater. I have everything working great, but for some reason I can't get my Sony 4K Blu-ray to output a 4K signal into my Yamaha receiver and then up into the Epson 4040 projector? When I play a normal Blu-ray DVD, it will upscale to 4K just fine, but when I put in an actual 4K DVD (Warcraft), it shows 1080p/24P coming out of the Blu-ray?
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? I posted this in the Yamaha 2070 forum and the suggested I come here and ask. Can someone walk me through what I need to do to set up my equipment so that an actual 4K DVD gets passed through properly to my Epson?
> 
> 
> thanks!


Have you tried connecting your Bluray Player direct to your Projector? (bypassing the AVR)
...if that still doesn't help, try a shorter 6' HDMI cable (preferably a Premium Certified 18Gbps HDMI cable for 4K)

Did that help? ...if so you need a better cable for your long run from your AVR to your projector.
Many cables max out at 25' when it comes to higher bandwidth 4K/UHD/HDR signals 
(and yes 4K/24 HDR BT.2020 4:2:2 12Bit on a 4K UHD disc carries more info than a 1080p BT.709 8 Bit Bluray that's been upconverted.

If it's still not working, this may sound silly but it happens more often than people will admit...
Make you sure you actually selected the 4K UHD disc out of your combo pack and not the regular bluray.


----------



## go4two

PioManiac said:


> Have you tried connecting your Bluray Player direct to your Projector? (bypassing the AVR)
> ...if that still doesn't help, try a shorter 6' HDMI cable (preferably a Premium Certified 18Gbps HDMI cable for 4K)
> 
> Did that help? ...if so you need a better cable for your long run from your AVR to your projector.
> Many cables max out at 25' when it comes to higher bandwidth 4K/UHD/HDR signals
> (and yes 4K/24 HDR BT.2020 4:2:2 12Bit on a 4K UHD disc carries more info than a 1080p BT.709 8 Bit Bluray that's been upconverted.
> 
> If it's still not working, this may sound silly but it happens more often than people will admit...
> Make you sure you actually selected the 4K UHD disc out of your combo pack and not the regular bluray.


I tried bypassing the AVR but still a no go (25ft 18gbs certified hdmi
I made sure it was the 4K DVD, so that's not it. 
I'll try a shorter cable tonight and report back. 

I just would like to know from owners here what am I supposed to expect when I play a 4K DVD. Should my blurry player be showing 4K coming out? 

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Chris the Rock

go4two said:


> I tried bypassing the AVR but still a no go (25ft 18gbs certified hdmi
> I made sure it was the 4K DVD, so that's not it.
> I'll try a shorter cable tonight and report back.
> 
> I just would like to know from owners here what am I supposed to expect when I play a 4K DVD. Should my blurry player be showing 4K coming out?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Something that might be overlooked - make sure you're using HDMI input #1 on the Projector. 

To verify what resolution the projector is receiving, visit the menu and go to the INFO tab. You can see the incoming resolution. Depending on which player you have, you may have the option to control the outgoing resolution from the player, and if it's showing 1920x1080 in the projector's INFO tab, you will need to adjust the player.


----------



## Bluskinsfan21

Also might be a good idea to verify if the HDMI is the correct orientation. Most of the 18 gb hdmi cables of a longer length are active and therefore only function in one direction.


----------



## welldun

go4two said:


> I tried bypassing the AVR but still a no go (25ft 18gbs certified hdmi
> I made sure it was the 4K DVD, so that's not it.
> I'll try a shorter cable tonight and report back.
> 
> I just would like to know from owners here what am I supposed to expect when I play a 4K DVD. Should my blurry player be showing 4K coming out?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


Your sony player should be set to output either 4k or original from the video setup menu. If you have it set to 1080p or some other fixed resolution, it will send the signal out in that resolution, then if your yamaha is set to passthough or whatever yamaha may call that setting, you will get the resolution that the sony is putting out. However, if your avr is setup to scale the video signal to a specific resolution (in this case 1080p), then that is what will be sent to the projector. You should also check to make sure that both the HDMI input and output from your AVR can also accept and pass the 4k signal. In cases such as my own, my Pioneer has specific HDMI ports for 4k input and output. 

Like others have noted, you also want to make sure that you are using the correct HDMI port on the projector since one is designed to accept the 4k signal while the other is capped at 1080p.

If you want to test things out after setting up the proper resolution on your Sony player do the following:

Set the resolution of your Sony player to 4k and play a 4k disc.
Connect the Sony player directly to the projector HDMI 1 port labeled HDCP2.2 as shown it the attached pic.
one the disc is playing the 4k movie (not the preview which can be of a lower resolution), navigate to the info tab of your projector settings and check for the resolution that the projector is receiving. 
If the resolution shows up in the 4k values, then swap the HDMI cable with the other one that makes up the connection chain (sony ---> AVR ---> projector) to make sure that both cables allow for th.e resolution to be passed
If both wires work the same way, then reconnect the chain from sony to yamaha to epson and check the results. 
If the results are 4k video being passed through, then you're in good shape, if the resolution is 1080p or less, then you need to adjust the resolution of the yamaha to passthrough
If that still doesn't work, then check the HDMI In and Out ports of the Yamaha to ensure that you are using the 4k enabled ones.


----------



## go4two

Chris the Rock said:


> Something that might be overlooked - make sure you're using HDMI input #1 on the Projector.
> 
> To verify what resolution the projector is receiving, visit the menu and go to the INFO tab. You can see the incoming resolution. Depending on which player you have, you may have the option to control the outgoing resolution from the player, and if it's showing 1920x1080 in the projector's INFO tab, you will need to adjust the player.


THANKS FELLERS! 

Well, I'm an idiot and didn't know It mattered what HDMI input you had to use. That was the problem and I now am getting 4K all the way through. I appreciate all of the comments!


----------



## NetViper

Hey all, do you think there is a realistic chance they will update the 5040ub to 18 gb hdmi for Cedia? I'm on the fence with getting one, but with the Xbox One X about to come out and the projector not able to do 4K hdr gaming, I feel like it's already out of date. Thoughts?


----------



## sddp

GeneHT said:


> You are correct in seeing what the 5040 does to standard Blue Rays. I purchased some 4Ks and some 3Ds to see how they looked and after seeing what the 5040 does to the standard Blue Rays I now go to Walmart and look through the $6.00 Blue Ray Box, no point in spending extra money on the 4Ks. Some day when they come out with a native 4K projector that has a good price than it will be time to maybe move up, but for now the 5040 does a great job with the Blue Rays on my 155 inch screen and I see no point in spending the extra money.


I think there's a few school of thought for this. I have hundreds of DVD's and when Blu Ray come out and got a 1080P with a 1080p player, BR were STUNNING! and from that point on ONLY bought Blu Rays' and the films I love the most and know I will watch once or twice a year that I already had in DVD sold them and bought the Blu ray version. Then 3D came out. UGH!!!
Then had to start all over again for any of my BR that had a 3D version. Fast forward till our current day that 4K is out. And I am now reliving that all over again. The only exception is if it's available in 3D/4K (which there actually are a handful) then I get that since no one has the space or the budget to buy the 3D and the 4K.

Now keep in mind a few points:
1) ALL 4K disc obviously have a Blu ray, maybe DVD, and that ultra violate thingy
2) eventually Native 4K projectors will be the norm, just like 4K TV are now all you can get (with the exception of some 32" 1080P tv for like $89 or sitting on the curb)
3) When that 4K native stuff becomes the norm and 8K is on the horizon, you'll wish you had the 4K, since 4K upscaled to 8K will definitely look WAY better then Blu Ray, just like Blu Ray looks WAY better than DVD on our 5040
4) A the Blu Ray cost for example $27.99 then then 4K version is usually $34.99. Plant Earth Ii BR is $39 and the 4K is $49, what's another %10 more to get the best of both worls


----------



## Dave Harper

Oledurt said:


> Expanded does increase the black floor. I had to turn my brightness down about 12 clicks. The dynamic range gets reduced so I use normal.
> 
> With a new calibration, and gamma curve expanded might work well. I am sticking to normal for now.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



If you reset black and white levels then the black floor shouldn't look raised. What happens is your encoded video level points won't land exactly at their proper spots because you're taking the 16-235 range and stretching it out to the 0-255 range. You're right that gamma should be redone to take advantage of the expanded range too. 

Your dynamic range shouldn't be reduced. It would actually expand, even if your points don't land exactly accurate now. 

You have to pick your trade off with HDR and projectors. You have to decide if any visual impact of your points not being technically spot on is bad enough to negate the added dynamic range for your HDR (High *Dynamic Range*) to give you that tad bit more extension. 

For some sources it seems to have helped and then I think I found it, but then the next disc is ho-hum. :-/



KevinG said:


> Am I correct that setting greyscale require a meter? I don't think I've seen a way to do it manually (other than by eye [hmm, that patch looks a bit pink], but that seems like a long shot)



As stated below, yes this requires a colorimeter if you want it to be technically accurate. 



panman40 said:


> Yes a meter and software is needed for setting greyscale, if you have an overall tint to whites such as pink you can try dropping red-gain down a few clicks but it will not be very accurate.



Keep in mind that it could also be that the blue and/or green are low, which could also cast a pinkish hue. This is why you need to use a meter for accurate results.


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> Oledurt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Expanded does increase the black floor. I had to turn my brightness down about 12 clicks. The dynamic range gets reduced so I use normal.
> 
> With a new calibration, and gamma curve expanded might work well. I am sticking to normal for now.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you reset black and white levels then the black floor shouldn't look raised. What happens is your encoded video level points won't land exactly at their proper spots because you're taking the 16-235 range and stretching it out to the 0-255 range. You're right that gamma should be redone to take advantage of the expanded range too.
> 
> Your dynamic range shouldn't be reduced. It would actually expand, even if your points don't land exactly accurate now.
> 
> You have to pick your trade off with HDR and projectors. You have to decide if any visual impact of your points not being technically spot on is bad enough to negate the added dynamic range for your HDR (High *Dynamic Range*) to give you that tad bit more extension.
> 
> For some sources it seems to have helped and then I think I found it, but then the next disc is ho-hum. :-/
> 
> 
> 
> KevinG said:
> 
> 
> 
> Am I correct that setting greyscale require a meter? I don't think I've seen a way to do it manually (other than by eye [hmm, that patch looks a bit pink], but that seems like a long shot)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> As stated below, yes this requires a colorimeter if you want it to be technically accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> panman40 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes a meter and software is needed for setting greyscale, if you have an overall tint to whites such as pink you can try dropping red-gain down a few clicks but it will not be very accurate.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that it could also be that the blue and/or green are low, which could also cast a pinkish hue. This is why you need to use a meter for accurate results.
Click to expand...

Absolutely agree Dave, I was just saying if the guy doesn't have a meter it's worth a couple of clicks by eye but obviously won't be accurate.
I try not to adjust Green gains or offsets and leave at default, but prefer to adjust red and blue instead.
One thing I notice with this Epson is that adjusting the offsets has nearly as much impact in higher contrast where only gains should. Just a quirk I guess.


----------



## NetViper

What price point difference do you guys think it's worth getting a 6040 over a 5040 or is it worth it at all?


----------



## Juiced46

My 5040UB came in last night. Everything is hooked up and working great. I have not done any calibrating yet. I just did a few quick tweaks. I tested my Xbox 1S and my cable box for now. I plan to use the Harpervision settings. Is anyone using Dynamic settings for gaming? If so what are your settings? To me I feel Dynamic looks better on my Xbox1s then Digital Cinema, Natural or Bright Cinema. Only thing I notice is whites look sort of flared up with a Yellowish/Greenish tint to it. 

Also, what 4k Blu Ray player would you prefer for a reasonable price that includes apps like Netflix, Amazon Prime etc?


----------



## dholmes54

NetViper said:


> What price point difference do you guys think it's worth getting a 6040 over a 5040 or is it worth it at all?


I got the 6040 because I thought the white 5040 would look strange on my black ceiling but I've seen pics of the 5040 on a black ceiling and it looked good! The 6040 comes with a pricey mount,extra bulb and extra year warranty, if that matters it seems like we have to upgrade every 2-3yrs anyway!


----------



## mb1985

*Projector Position and seating position*

Hi there, I am planning on buying the 5040ub and wondering how far back does the projector have to be to throw a 120" screen display? My dimensions from wall to wall is 11 3/4 ft. Is that good to throw an 120" display? I also want to know how far back do you have to be in order to be in a good viewable area in the 120" display? Thanks!


----------



## rmerlano

Juiced46 said:


> My 5040UB came in last night. Everything is hooked up and working great. I have not done any calibrating yet. I just did a few quick tweaks. I tested my Xbox 1S and my cable box for now. I plan to use the Harpervision settings. Is anyone using Dynamic settings for gaming? If so what are your settings? To me I feel Dynamic looks better on my Xbox1s then Digital Cinema, Natural or Bright Cinema. Only thing I notice is whites look sort of flared up with a Yellowish/Greenish tint to it.
> 
> Also, what 4k Blu Ray player would you prefer for a reasonable price that includes apps like Netflix, Amazon Prime etc?


What size and type of screen dod you have?


----------



## Juiced46

rmerlano said:


> What size and type of screen dod you have?


100" Elite EZ screen.


----------



## DeepAction

mb1985 said:


> Hi there, I am planning on buying the 5040ub and wondering how far back does the projector have to be to throw a 120" screen display? My dimensions from wall to wall is 11 3/4 ft. Is that good to throw an 120" display? I also want to know how far back do you have to be in order to be in a good viewable area in the 120" display? Thanks!


Unfortunately a 120" screen will not work for the space that you have. The throw distance ratio (distance / screen width) for the 5040ub is supposed to be 1.35:1. The width of a 120" screen is 104.6" which makes the throw distance about 141.2 inches which already exceeds the 141 inches (11 3/4 feet) that you have. Remember that this distance is from the front of the projector and so you need another 20 inches or so for the projector itself (the projector is about 18 inches deep).

The biggest screen you can use in the space you have with this projector is about 100". The other option is to look at a projector with a shorter throw. As for how far you need to sit from the screen that seems to be a matter of preference. I know people that sit less than 10 feet away from a 130" screen and so if you have your seating against your back wall you should be OK.

I am looking at getting this projector myself for a small HT room still under construction in my basement. This room when finished will be 11x13 feet and even I cannot go for a 120" screen. I got a 110" Silver Ticket screen that I will be using.

-D


----------



## ht guy

NetViper said:


> What price point difference do you guys think it's worth getting a 6040 over a 5040 or is it worth it at all?





dholmes54 said:


> I got the 6040 because I thought the white 5040 would look strange on my black ceiling but I've seen pics of the 5040 on a black ceiling and it looked good! The 6040 comes with a pricey mount,extra bulb and extra year warranty, if that matters it seems like we have to upgrade every 2-3yrs anyway!


Only other difference I'm aware of is the option in the 6040 to do vertical stretch - important only if you have an anamorphic lens setup.


----------



## DeepAction

ht guy said:


> Only other difference I'm aware of is the option in the 6040 to do vertical stretch - important only if you have an anamorphic lens setup.


If the 6040 was available for just a couple hundred more than the 5040 I would go for it just to get the black body. But $1K more just to get the black body, an extra year of warranty (for a product I am likely to replace in a few years anyway), a bulb I can buy separately and a mount I don't need is a bit too much.

-D


----------



## Azekecse

DeepAction said:


> If the 6040 was available for just a couple hundred more than the 5040 I would go for it just to get the black body. But $1K more just to get the black body, an extra year of warranty (for a product I am likely to replace in a few years anyway), a bulb I can buy separately and a mount I don't need is a bit too much.
> 
> -D


I own the 6040UB, got a great deal on it only costing ~$300.00 more than the 5040UB, therefore worth it for me. I replaced a black JVC HD350 (great projector), that I sold to a friend, I wanted 4K without the associated cost of full 4K, I have zero regrets. 

The additional option that the projector has is a special setting for ISF calibration. I've tested and used other calibrations settings, however, I will get this projector ISF calibrated soon.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## panman40

Well I've had time to experiment with SDR and HDMI normal/expanded and after setting up brightness and contrast using the relative patterns for both there is 0 difference between the 2 images at the end of the day.


----------



## rmerlano

Juiced46 said:


> 100" Elite EZ screen.


Thanks!


----------



## mb1985

DeepAction said:


> Unfortunately a 120" screen will not work for the space that you have. The throw distance ratio (distance / screen width) for the 5040ub is supposed to be 1.35:1. The width of a 120" screen is 104.6" which makes the throw distance about 141.2 inches which already exceeds the 141 inches (11 3/4 feet) that you have. Remember that this distance is from the front of the projector and so you need another 20 inches or so for the projector itself (the projector is about 18 inches deep).
> 
> The biggest screen you can use in the space you have with this projector is about 100". The other option is to look at a projector with a shorter throw. As for how far you need to sit from the screen that seems to be a matter of preference. I know people that sit less than 10 feet away from a 130" screen and so if you have your seating against your back wall you should be OK.
> 
> I am looking at getting this projector myself for a small HT room still under construction in my basement. This room when finished will be 11x13 feet and even I cannot go for a 120" screen. I got a 110" Silver Ticket screen that I will be using.
> 
> -D


ok Thanks man! I am getting mine too hopefully this week! I have also been looking at another model 6040ub. Whats the difference between 5040 and 6040?


----------



## KevinG

panman40 said:


> Well I've had time to experiment with SDR and HDMI normal/expanded and after setting up brightness and contrast using the relative patterns for both there is 0 difference between the 2 images at the end of the day.


I came to the exact same conclusion over the weekend. I think I'm going to spend some money on an i1 meter. Wouldn't hurt to calibrate all the displays in the house anyway.


----------



## achanonier

Hi There

I'm going to test Oledurt Bright Cinema settings, however I have a question.
Is it acceptable to have some white clipping with HDR ?
I've always tried to get a good setting without any white clipping.

But when I look a some settings posted it looks like a lot of them have clipped whites...
Juste using HDR1 clips whites if you are note decreasing contrast or setting SuperWhite to ON...

Here is what I have noted from Oledurt's setting (correct me if I'm wrong )

_Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
Brightness = 50
Contrast = 49
Color Saturation = 50
Epson Super White = Off
Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0_


----------



## Craig Peer

The 5040 and 5040e projectors go back on sale starting August 27th ( $ 200.00 off ) - through Sept. 9th. Just FYI !


----------



## rmerlano

Some of you have jumped from 5020UB to 5040UB?
Could you share your experience?

I have a screen with 150" diagonal matte white 1,1 gain, my room is completely dark, do you think with this screen-room, I could get a good performance with 5040UB?. I currently have the 5020UB that for me looks great. I could get a really improvement if jump to 5040?


----------



## Chris the Rock

Watching UHD with HDR on this projector without tweaking the settings reminds me of what the outside looked like during the eclipse. 

I am now a very happy customer, thanks to the discussion and what's been shared here.


----------



## badaripanu

Juiced46 said:


> My 5040UB came in last night. Everything is hooked up and working great. I have not done any calibrating yet. I just did a few quick tweaks. I tested my Xbox 1S and my cable box for now. I plan to use the Harpervision settings. Is anyone using Dynamic settings for gaming? If so what are your settings? To me I feel Dynamic looks better on my Xbox1s then Digital Cinema, Natural or Bright Cinema. Only thing I notice is whites look sort of flared up with a Yellowish/Greenish tint to it.
> 
> Also, what 4k Blu Ray player would you prefer for a reasonable price that includes apps like Netflix, Amazon Prime etc?


I have a Samsung UBD K8500 and I am very happy with it. It had excellent reviews. paid around $170 on ebay. so far no issues. It has all the apps you mentioned and all of them work.
Only thing I do not like is the remote. Bit small. Has no dedicated fast forward/rewind buttons(You have to hold the Skip button down for 3 secs or so and that does not work super nice). Plus the small size made me occasionally click on the wrong button.
I woudl recommend it if you are looking for a budget one.


----------



## Evan201

Chris the Rock said:


> Watching UHD with HDR on this projector without tweaking the settings reminds me of what the outside looked like during the eclipse.
> 
> I am now a very happy customer, thanks to the discussion and what's been shared here.


Use the Oledurt settings with Bright Cinema - HDR - on Auto (Bright) and his custom gamma. I have a cinegrey 5d which is a grey screen and it still looks bad ass. My PJ is mounted 12' from the 105" screen.


----------



## panman40

achanonier said:


> Hi There
> 
> I'm going to test Oledurt Bright Cinema settings, however I have a question.
> Is it acceptable to have some white clipping with HDR ?
> I've always tried to get a good setting without any white clipping.
> 
> But when I look a some settings posted it looks like a lot of them have clipped whites...
> Juste using HDR1 clips whites if you are note decreasing contrast or setting SuperWhite to ON...
> 
> Here is what I have noted from Oledurt's setting (correct me if I'm wrong )
> 
> _Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
> Brightness = 50
> Contrast = 49
> Color Saturation = 50
> Epson Super White = Off
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0_


Yes with superwhite off and contrast as high as 49 white clipping will occur. It seems that HDR is a compromise on projectors and not all calibration rules apply. I'm running somewhere between the two for now with a gamma I just played with by eye in bright cinema mode.

I am however going to again try turning off HDR in my player and see how that turns out.


----------



## Oledurt

achanonier said:


> Hi There
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to test Oledurt Bright Cinema settings, however I have a question.
> 
> Is it acceptable to have some white clipping with HDR ?
> 
> I've always tried to get a good setting without any white clipping.
> 
> 
> 
> But when I look a some settings posted it looks like a lot of them have clipped whites...
> 
> Juste using HDR1 clips whites if you are note decreasing contrast or setting SuperWhite to ON...
> 
> 
> 
> Here is what I have noted from Oledurt's setting (correct me if I'm wrong )
> 
> 
> 
> _Bright Cinema Mode. HDR 1 Auto Bright
> 
> Brightness = 50
> 
> Contrast = 49
> 
> Color Saturation = 50
> 
> Epson Super White = Off
> 
> Gamma (left to right). 0,1,7,13,22,29,29,14,0_




That is right. You can reduce contrast setting to extend the hdr contrast but the tradeoff is you will be reducing the dynamic range. So instead of High Dynamic Range you get Mediocre Dynamic Range. 🤣. 

With my settings whites will clip around 410 nits which is good as it gets on this projector in my opinion.

Unless you want to try Dave's approach.

You can tune a Honda civic, but it will never be a Porsche... 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

badaripanu said:


> I have a Samsung UBD K8500 and I am very happy with it. It had excellent reviews. paid around $170 on ebay. so far no issues. It has all the apps you mentioned and all of them work.
> Only thing I do not like is the remote. Bit small. Has no dedicated fast forward/rewind buttons(You have to hold the Skip button down for 3 secs or so and that does not work super nice). Plus the small size made me occasionally click on the wrong button.
> I woudl recommend it if you are looking for a budget one.


Thanks I will look into that for sure. 

Right now the only 4K source I have is an Xbox One S but it does not properly do HDR with the 5040. It will do 4k with Netflix and Amazon but its not quite right. I am debating on buying a 4K Blu Ray now or just wait until Nov when the Xbox One X comes out and it should be able to do it all. I just dont want to wait lol


----------



## Juiced46

rmerlano said:


> Some of you have jumped from 5020UB to 5040UB?
> Could you share your experience?
> 
> I have a screen with 150" diagonal matte white 1,1 gain, my room is completely dark, do you think with this screen-room, I could get a good performance with 5040UB?. I currently have the 5020UB that for me looks great. I could get a really improvement if jump to 5040?


I just jumped from a 5025 to a 5040. There is a significant difference. Put it this way. My girlfriend could barely tell the difference between SD and HD when watching cable. The first time she watched the 5040 she immediately saw there was an improvement. 

My room is totally light controlled. No windows, black walls. I use a 100" screen (due to ceiling height restrictions) with a 12' throw. 

Normal HD cable TV watching looks pretty much the same, colors pop more and blacks look better. The overall image is brighter. Where I see the biggest difference is with Blu Ray movies(non 4k), 4K videos/movies streamed through Netflix and Amazon and gaming. This for me is not even HDR stuff yet either. I would imagine once I get a source that passes HDR to the unit correctly it will look even better. Xbox One S doesnt do HDR well from what I have been reading(issues with Netflix app within Xbox etc) I have yet to get HDR to work properly. But the only 4K source I have at the moment is the Xbox. 

To me it is worth it. I loved my 5025, it looked great. But I had the opportunity to upgrade so I did. I guess the deciding factor would be the cost difference. Dont forget you may need new HDMI cables and a new AVR also depending on what equipment you run. I had to purchase a new AVR as well since mine did 4k but did not have HDCP 2.2. 

If money isnt that big of a deal, I would upgrade in a heartbeat. For me, I upgrade every 2-3 years anyhow. I had my 5025 for 2 years. The way I see it, we will not see native projector prices drop enough for a while, I will ride this projector out for a few years and it should keep me happy.


----------



## rmerlano

I appreciate a lot all your detailed answer.
If you could, with the 5040, what would be your screen size?

I like this projector, since I think it could be an improvement because is an "evolution" from 5020. Now I´m projecting in a 150" screen, so I want to be sure than with that size I´ll improve my experience.

Thank you Juiced!


----------



## achanonier

Oledurt said:


> That is right. You can reduce contrast setting to extend the hdr contrast but the tradeoff is you will be reducing the dynamic range. So instead of High Dynamic Range you get Mediocre Dynamic Range. 🤣.
> 
> With my settings whites will clip around 410 nits which is good as it gets on this projector in my opinion.
> 
> Unless you want to try Dave's approach.
> 
> You can tune a Honda civic, but it will never be a Porsche...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hi again.
I'm reporting back !

So.... I must admit that I like the picture I get with thoses settings.

I lowered the contrast to 45 in order to have a little less clipping and played a little with the gamma curve to fit with my environment . The picture looks great.
Much more HDR like than my previous settings (either HDR1 with Natural Custom Gamma cuvre or FLAT with UB700 HDR slider) where I always managed to have no clipping.
It's really a matter of preference : you can have
- A very HDR like but overall dark image with no clipping (HDR 2 without custom gamma curve)
- A softer with less contrast (not so HDR) image that is bright with no clipping (HDR 1 with Superwhite ON and custom gamma curve, or Ub700 HDR Slider) which is what I used to favor.
- A HDR like image that is bright enough with a little clipping (OLedurt's) which is I think a really good compromise

I made a all lot of tests last night swithcing back and forth between my new Oledurt's inspired settings and my previous settings.
Some UHD BR : Revenant, Mad Max, DeadPool, Pacific Rim, Magnificent 7
Netflix Series : Iron Fist, Marco Polo
Amazon Series : Man in the High Castle
PS 4 Pro : TLOU remastered

I'm really happy with what I get !

I'll post some pictures latter !


----------



## welldun

I watched Alien Covenant 4k HDR last night and tested the various settings that have been posted by Oledurt (Bright Cinema) and Dave (Harpervision). I used the opening scene where Michael Fassbender is playing the piano and Guy Pearce is listening and critiquing his playing. I paused it at the moment where Guy Pearce is in the background and you can see his suit with the shiny button as well as the velvety black collar of his shirt. I switched back and forth between Oledurt's settings and Dave's since I have them saved in Memory, and they both looked great, however I can see more detail in the suit and contrast between the black collar and the rest of the shirt was more defined with Harpervision. The color of the suit (green) and the Grays in his hair were also more distinguishable with Harpervision only because Oledurt's settings gave a darker picture. However, If I didn't have the two settings to compare, I would be happy with either one. 

I think that for me and everyone else, it would be easier to discern which setting is best with our individual setup, if only we had a picture to reference, something that would show us the material in the way that the studio actually intended for us to see it. 

At the moment, it is easy to make adjustments that bring out or hide some of details, but without knowing exactly how much of that detail your are intended to see, it becomes harder to figure out which setting is actually correct. 

I'm tempted to do a side by side of my 5040ub and my Samsung KS8000 tv (which is can do HDR and has the settings recommended by Rtings.com). That way if those KS8000 settings are remotely close to what HDR should look like, I can then adjust my 5040Ub to try to match it.


----------



## Boggle

rmerlano said:


> Some of you have jumped from 5020UB to 5040UB?
> Could you share your experience?
> 
> I have a screen with 150" diagonal matte white 1,1 gain, my room is completely dark, do you think with this screen-room, I could get a good performance with 5040UB?. I currently have the 5020UB that for me looks great. I could get a really improvement if jump to 5040?


I had the 5020ub. To me it depends on the way you are using your projector.

if all you care about are black levels : its a minor upgrade

If you are just watching 1080p movies/TV: It is a bit sharper, brighter, contrast is a bit better. In my opinion this is just a modest improvement. It is quieter too though. For the user that said the improvement is more dramatic than SD to HD, that is crazy to me, it is nowhere near that big a difference. The 5020ub is worth like 1.1k right now. To me if this was all I was doing I don't think it's worth twice the price to upgrade.

If you use the 5040 as a 4k PC or for gaming: Here the sharpness increase is way more obvious. I have seen native 4k and the 4k dlp projectors, the 5040UB gets like 90% of the way to that level of sharpness, if you are on the fence cause of the "faux 4k" junk people complain about you are wasting your time imo. Yes they are a little sharper but no way I would pay thousands just for that alone, hell I wouldn't pay hundreds more. The pixels are obvious on the 5020ub. (I have a 125" screen) The sharpness increase is really really nice, and in this case the 5040 is definitely worth it.

If you watch UHD without hdr: Depends on the UHD disc. Some of them kind of look just like regular bluray, so see above. Others, the 5040ub looks solidly nicer by any metric. 

If you watch a good UHD and go through the hassle of setting it up with harpervision/oledurt and then calibrating it for your setting:
damn when you get this thing to work it is miles better than the 5020ub. The colors, the sharpness, it's frankly kind of amazing. The HDR settings the projector has built-in stink. Just switching to harpervision or oledurt gets you pretty far, they definitely still need adjustment though. If it wasn't for those guys I would have given up on HDR video for this projector. But there really is an awesome image hiding in this machine somewhere if you can find it. I really wish you didn't have to jump through hoops to get there, but that is the case for every hdr projector right now.


----------



## panman40

achanonier said:


> Hi again.
> I'm reporting back !
> 
> So.... I must admit that I like the picture I get with thoses settings.
> 
> I lowered the contrast to 45 in order to have a little less clipping and played a little with the gamma curve to fit with my environment . The picture looks great.
> Much more HDR like than my previous settings (either HDR1 with Natural Custom Gamma cuvre or FLAT with UB700 HDR slider) where I always managed to have no clipping.
> It's really a matter of preference : you can have
> - A very HDR like but overall dark image with no clipping (HDR 2 without custom gamma curve)
> - A softer with less contrast (not so HDR) image that is bright with no clipping (HDR 1 with Superwhite ON and custom gamma curve, or Ub700 HDR Slider) which is what I used to favor.
> - A HDR like image that is bright enough with a little clipping (OLedurt's) which is I think a really good compromise
> 
> I made a all lot of tests last night swithcing back and forth between my new Oledurt's inspired settings and my previous settings.
> Some UHD BR : Revenant, Mad Max, DeadPool, Pacific Rim, Magnificent 7
> Netflix Series : Iron Fist, Marco Polo
> Amazon Series : Man in the High Castle
> PS 4 Pro : TLOU remastered
> 
> I'm really happy with what I get !
> 
> I'll post some pictures latter !


It's a compromise I agree but calibration is a science that in effect should be adhered to IMO. However I botched a gamma of my own to suit my room by eye for HDR, 
Something I have never liked within an image is to bright highlights leading to APL crushed blacks.


----------



## rmerlano

Boggle said:


> I had the 5020ub. To me it depends on the way you are using your projector.
> 
> if all you care about are black levels : its a minor upgrade
> 
> If you are just watching 1080p movies/TV: It is a bit sharper, brighter, contrast is a bit better. In my opinion this is just a modest improvement. It is quieter too though. For the user that said the improvement is more dramatic than SD to HD, that is crazy to me, it is nowhere near that big a difference. The 5020ub is worth like 1.1k right now. To me if this was all I was doing I don't think it's worth twice the price to upgrade.
> 
> If you use the 5040 as a 4k PC or for gaming: Here the sharpness increase is way more obvious. I have seen native 4k and the 4k dlp projectors, the 5040UB gets like 90% of the way to that level of sharpness, if you are on the fence cause of the "faux 4k" junk people complain about you are wasting your time imo. Yes they are a little sharper but no way I would pay thousands just for that alone, hell I wouldn't pay hundreds more. The pixels are obvious on the 5020ub. (I have a 125" screen) The sharpness increase is really really nice, and in this case the 5040 is definitely worth it.
> 
> If you watch UHD without hdr: Depends on the UHD disc. Some of them kind of look just like regular bluray, so see above. Others, the 5040ub looks solidly nicer by any metric.
> 
> If you watch a good UHD and go through the hassle of setting it up with harpervision/oledurt and then calibrating it for your setting:
> damn when you get this thing to work it is miles better than the 5020ub. The colors, the sharpness, it's frankly kind of amazing. The HDR settings the projector has built-in stink. Just switching to harpervision or oledurt gets you pretty far, they definitely still need adjustment though. If it wasn't for those guys I would have given up on HDR video for this projector. But there really is an awesome image hiding in this machine somewhere if you can find it. I really wish you didn't have to jump through hoops to get there, but that is the case for every hdr projector right now.


Interesting points, they worth a lot to me.
The main use in my room is HD movies and UHD movies when the 4K projector is available.
If every feature of the 5040 is superior (even little for some some of them), then it's worth it. But if the improvement I can get by watching HD movies and UHD is far superior, it's going to be great!
Obviusly, if I pull the trigger with the 5040UB, I´ll calibrate it with the Harpervision and Oledurt settings. 
I hope to get great picture in 150" screen.


----------



## Oledurt

I am settled on what this projector can do. I anxiously await what Epson will come out with next.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rmerlano

Oledurt said:


> I am settled on what this projector can do. I anxiously await what Epson will come out with next.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I share with you your expectations...


----------



## Juiced46

I have a few questions. 

Has anyone successfully got HDR to work on Xbox One S when gaming, Amazon App, Netflix, or Youtube app through the Xbox One S? Or is it just not happening or do I need an HD Fury linker?

If I do need an HD Fury Linker, would it be worth the investment? I am slightly confused on 1 thing. I have read the instructions. And it looks like I would hook the HDMI cable like this Source>>>(In)Linker(Out)>>>AVR>>>Projector. Can you put the Linker on the Monitor OUT on the AVR going to the projector. So it would be like this AVR(out)>>>>(in)Linker(out)>>>>Projector. 

Lastly, since the 5040 HDMI chipset from what I read does not allow over a 10gbps signal, will we be seeing the same problems when the new Xbox One X comes out that the Xbox One S has?

Lastly, how is the PS4 Pro doing and what known issues are there with the 5040UB? I have not seen much talk about it in this thread.


----------



## Evan201

I'M JUST DYING FOR 4K 4:2:2 HDR BT2020 with 18gbs refresh rate for 60p. Hoping native 60p will be the step up that Epson takes on their next one. That would cause me to want to sell the 5040ub and go for whatever comes next. 
The jutter on some streaming content is my biggest problem with this projector. Other than that, it's terrific in every way. Especially when locking the settings in an Nvidia Shield Tv. The Shield does a fantastic job of converting Rec709 to the wider color.


----------



## lifecast2020

shepdog said:


> MSRP: $2999.00
> 
> 
> * SCROLL DOWN FOR KNOWN ISSUES*
> 
> *The brilliant HDR-compatible home theater projector with 4K Enhancementb*.
> 
> Offering exceptional color performance, the Home Cinema 5040UB delivers immersive experiences. Featuring 4K Enhancement Technology, this brilliant home theater projector supports 4K streaming devices and Ultra HD Blu-ray content. It's also compatible with High Dynamic Range (HDR) content, displaying an extraordinary range of brightness levels with deep, dramatic blacks. Delivering 2,500 lumens of color brightness and 2,500 lumens of white brightness, the 5040UB is ideal for a variety of rooms. Its expansive color gamut displays the entire sRGB and DCI color spaces3. A 1,000,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio ensures rich detail in both bright and dark scenes, while its 16-piece glass lens achieves stunning clarity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Up to 3x Brighter Colors with Epson**
> 
> Brilliant image quality requires high color brightness. Epson 3LCD projectors have up to 3x Brighter Colors than leading competitive projectors.* Delivering 2500 lumens of color brightness and 2500 lumens of white brightness, the PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB uses 3LCD, 3-chip technology for brilliant images with true-to-life color.
> 
> 
> 
> *Model*:V11H71302
> 
> 
> 
> *Projection System*:Epson 3LCD, 3-chip optical engine
> 
> 
> 
> *Native Resolution*:1080p (1920 x 1080) with 4K enhancement
> 
> 
> 
> *Color Brightness*:2500 lumens
> 
> 
> 
> *White Brightness*:2500 lumens
> 
> 
> 
> Product Guides & Additional Information:
> 
> http://m.epson.com/alf_upload/pdfs/projectors/brochure_5040UB_specs.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Key Features*
> 
> 
> 
> *Bright and Colorful*
> 
> 
> 
> Features 2500 lumens of color brightness (color light output)1 and 2500 lumens of white brightness (white light output)1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *4K Enhancement Technology*
> 
> 
> 
> Epson's 4K Enhancement Technology delivers astonishing picture quality — every subtle intricacy is captured.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Contrast Ratio*
> 
> Up to 1,000,000:1 contrast ratio
> 
> 
> *Lens Shift*
> 
> Equipped with horizontal and vertical lens shift, to help configure projector setup
> 
> 1080p
> 
> Supports full HD 1080p resolution
> 
> *3-Dimensional Picture*
> 
> 2D & 3D Full HD technology puts you right in the middle of exciting, lifelike adventures, and Bright 3D Drive allows for bright, 3D projection.
> 
> 
> 
> *4K Enhancement Technology*— accepts 4K input and supports HDCP 2.2 for truly immersive scenes with 4K content
> 
> *HDR compatible* — enjoy HDR content, with an extremely wide range of brightness levels for images bursting with real-life color
> 
> *Bright* — ideal for a variety of lighting conditions.
> 
> The Home Cinema 5040UB has:
> 
> Color Brightness: 2500 lumens2
> 
> White Brightness: 2500 lumens2
> 
> *Expansive color gamut *— get brilliant, color-rich performance that displays the entire sRGB color space, plus DCI in Digital Cinema Mode
> 
> *Dramatic Ultra Black levels *— an improved iris design delivers up to a 1,000,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio
> 
> *Remarkable new cinema lens *— designed and manufactured in Japan, it features a 16-piece glass structure optimized for 4K performance and precision
> 
> *Epson Image Enhancement Technology *— features Super-resolution and improved Detail Enhancement to sharpen and refine images for lifelike smoothness and clarity
> 
> *Powered lens position memory* — preset up to 10 positions for motorized focus, zoom and lens shift; features 2.1x zoom and ultra wide lens shift
> 
> *Outstanding service *— 2-year limited warranty and toll-free support
> 
> 
> 
> Eco Features
> 
> RoHS compliant
> 
> Recyclable product4
> 
> Epson America, Inc. is a SmartWay Transport Partner5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For more information on Epson's environmental programs, go to www.epson.com/environment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *****TIPS*****
> 
> Manually Setting HDR
> Menu -> Signal -> Advanced
> 
> 
> 
> ***********video explaining 4:4:4***********
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Royboy 365 suggested a spot for known issues
> 
> 
> ******KNOWN ISSUES******
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * The Samsung UBD-8500 does not pass 10 or 12bit, and only Rec709. Waiting on firmware update. *
> 
> Kpump is also reporting that the Epson does not detect HDR from the shield after trying several cables.
> 
> Looks like the Philips player is the only player that provides HDR to the Epson at this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to cnorth12
> Samsung player has HDR streaming through Amazon App.
> 
> No Netflix HDR as of yet. Firmware update supposedly anytime, but who knows?
> 
> Philips has only 2 apps, Netflix and Youtube no HDR.
> 
> Xbox One S offers Netflix HDR streaming but that's it and of course the 4k blu-ray player that comes built in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From wbcollegekid


So glad I found this thread! 
I only had 2 days left to return my Samsung 8500. 
It was driving me crazy wondering why the 4K image just seemed soft and not as impressive as I was expecting from HDR. 
Put in for my return and ordered the Philips!

Plus, the remote for the Samsung was sooo insanely small! 
The buttons were so close, I'd go to pause a movie and hit the track back button instead constantly!

Does anyone know if the Philips remote via the HDMI link works okay with the Epson remote? I never thought to try that.

Also, what is anyone's experience with playback on digtial downloads and getting that horrid Cinemavision Audio mute warning?

The Samsung was the only player that I had this issue with. And the downloads were legit from Blu Ray purchases! So annoying. 

I did love that it would recall where you left off on a video file via the USB input. The only player to do that for me.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Hi,
Anyone uses Epson wifi module ELPAP10 ?


----------



## rmilyard

Some Projector Screen questions 

We are moving into a new house and looking at redoing my setup.

Right now I have a electric drop down Elite Screen 16:9 100". I am using an Epson 5040ub projector.

New house I am thinking going fixed screen since it will not be in the way like was in old house. Also want to go bigger. I have read many say with this Epson that 2.35:1 is way to go. Since never had that format screen not sure why etc. How would 16:9 and even older 4:3 look? I haven't used the Lens Memory before on the projector but reading can setup 3 settings for these formats.

Screen size looking at 138-158". Leaning more towards the 138" but since don't have access to house since not closing till Sept 22. Also should I just get a flat screen or curved screen?

Thanks for reading and option to thoughts and suggestions.


----------



## Azekecse

rmilyard said:


> Some Projector Screen questions
> 
> We are moving into a new house and looking at redoing my setup.
> 
> Right now I have a electric drop down Elite Screen 16:9 100". I am using an Epson 5040ub projector.
> 
> New house I am thinking going fixed screen since it will not be in the way like was in old house. Also want to go bigger. I have read many say with this Epson that 2.35:1 is way to go. Since never had that format screen not sure why etc. How would 16:9 and even older 4:3 look? I haven't used the Lens Memory before on the projector but reading can setup 3 settings for these formats.
> 
> Screen size looking at 138-158". Leaning more towards the 138" but since don't have access to house since not closing till Sept 22. Also should I just get a flat screen or curved screen?
> 
> Thanks for reading and option to thoughts and suggestions.


I can't answer the format screen question, but I believe that I read either here or another forum, that the curved screen doesn't work well with this Epson projector. Also if you are contemplating an anamorphic lens the Epson 6040UB is the only one capable in this series. I'm sure others will chime in.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## rmilyard

Azekecse said:


> I can't answer the format screen question, but I believe that I read either here or another forum, that the curved screen doesn't work well with this Epson projector. Also if you are contemplating an anamorphic lens the Epson 6040UB is the only one capable in this series. I'm sure others will chime in.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Chatted Elite screens and they said that there curve is slight and works well with all. However not sure if true or not.


----------



## rmilyard

Also looking for good and solid ceiling mount for the 5040ub. I had in old place a cheap one that came bundled with it. It's pretty cheap. Doesn't stay adjustor at all.


----------



## rmerlano

Someone understand the advantage of this?

http://www.projectorreviews.com/review-tv/epson-firmware-update-5040ub-6040ub-4040ub/


----------



## Juiced46

rmerlano said:


> Someone understand the advantage of this?
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/review-tv/epson-firmware-update-5040ub-6040ub-4040ub/


When was this firmware actually released? The article is from yesterday Aug 22, my projector already has Auto Bright like they mention though.


----------



## dimi123

rmilyard said:


> Also should I just get a flat screen or curved screen?


Curved screens mitigate the pincushion distortion caused by anamorphic lenses. If you're not going to use an anamorphic lens and want pixel perfect accuracy then the way to go is with a flat screen.


----------



## sddp

rmerlano said:


> Someone understand the advantage of this?
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/review-tv/epson-firmware-update-5040ub-6040ub-4040ub/




All models were mentioned except the 5040UBE?
Safe to assume it will work on the 5040UBE?


----------



## dholmes54

Did I read correctly, you update with the power off?


----------



## rmerlano

sddp said:


> All models were mentioned except the 5040UBE?
> Safe to assume it will work on the 5040UBE?


AFAIK, the difference between UB and UBE is that UBEis able to works wireless, so the firmware shuld work in both.


----------



## Azekecse

rmilyard said:


> Chatted Elite screens and they said that there curve is slight and works well with all. However not sure if true or not.


You must be referring to the _*Elite Screen - Lunette 2 Series*_, in theory these eliminate the pincushion effect. First you got my attention now I'm curious. Anybody have one of these with their Epson 5040/6040?

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## badaripanu

KBone said:


> Any insight or feedback about which receiver would be better to use between my PS4 PRO, Shield, and the 5040?
> 
> I'm looking at these two unless someone else has a better option around this price.
> 
> Sony STRDN1080
> https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDN10...rd_wg=AFCbn&psc=1&refRID=9DKXV50GADZ8PRJZ5R4X
> 
> Denon AVR X3300W
> https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-X3...rd_wg=vHnfO&psc=1&refRID=CK6XNATFQNTXXEXCFKVN


Got the SONY.Love it


----------



## rmilyard

Azekecse said:


> You must be referring to the _*Elite Screen - Lunette 2 Series*_, in theory these eliminate the pincushion effect. First you got my attention now I'm curious. Anybody have one of these with their Epson 5040/6040?
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke



Yes that is screen they suggested.


----------



## hoogs

Question regarding the Xbox One X. Since it will be outputting a 4k signal, should I turn off my upscaling on my receiver? I have left it on at this point. Does it really matter either way? Thanks!


----------



## Juiced46

I noticed when running the Xbox One S with Amazon Prime app. I am watching the Le Mans series which is shot in 4K. Projector info shows 4K 60HZ SDR, but the app (see bottom left of pic on toolbar) shows its actually 1080p. The image itself looks like 4K and way better then my 5025 did. But why is the Xbox Amazon app showing 1080p?


----------



## rmilyard

Azekecse said:


> You must be referring to the _*Elite Screen - Lunette 2 Series*_, in theory these eliminate the pincushion effect. First you got my attention now I'm curious. Anybody have one of these with their Epson 5040/6040?
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Anyone have this screen? I would like to hear if this like it before purchase one.


----------



## Chris the Rock

hoogs said:


> Question regarding the Xbox One X. Since it will be outputting a 4k signal, should I turn off my upscaling on my receiver? I have left it on at this point. Does it really matter either way? Thanks!


I recommend turning it off. This projector does its own "upscaling", and it's a good bet that it does as good a job or better than the video processor in most AV Receivers. I plan to use the Xbox One X for gaming exclusively and I will be leaving my AV Preamp's upscaling off, because I want to minimize the processing that's being done to the picture, to keep input lag to a minimum. The low Input lag is fantastic on this projector, a huge step up from the previous generation. I'm no pro gamer, but in certain types of games (like driving games, for example), low input lag is a huge benefit.

It's good to note, though: this projector cannot handle 4K input at 60Hz with HDR, it exceeds the 10.2Gbps bandwidth of the HDMI 1 input. (This is pointed out on the chart in the first page of this thread and in many posts in the 300-some-odd pages). I'm hoping the Xbox One X allows for a choice between 1080p output with HDR, and 4K output without HDR, kinda like the Sony Playstation 4 Pro does today. In that case, I'm likely to go with the former. That's what I do with the PS4 Pro and I've never once thought it looked anything less than excellent.


----------



## Matt Vaughn

I am building an HTPC but have a question regarding the projector. Is it possible for an Nvidia 1060 or similar card to set the output to 4k material to be at 12 bit, 4:2:2, 23.97hz or 25 depending on source material? Is this a setting that can be exactly specified on the output from the GPU? Can you use this to get netlifx 4k hdr to the projector? Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

rmilyard said:


> Anyone have this screen? I would like to hear if this like it before purchase one.


Ok after curiosity and further investigation, I found one at a local BB, via a price match. I replaced my previous screen (0.8 gain Gray screen from HT Depot). Anyone need a 120" Gray Screen locally??? The screen took about 3 hours to mount from soup to nuts and I'm now configuring the new menu settings based on the 1.1 gain (only suitable for a controlled light environment)... At first I wasn't happy, but after a few hours of install/config this screen is awesome with my 6040UB projector, esp with Oppo Bluray 4k movies. I have some friends coming to watch the fight tomorrow, I didn't want to watch it, but my son wants to watch it, but I digress. Please let me know if you have any questions, I will try to address them. Glad I didn't have the ISF calibration done yet .

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Boggle

Matt Vaughn said:


> I am building an HTPC but have a question regarding the projector. Is it possible for an Nvidia 1060 or similar card to set the output to 4k material to be at 12 bit, 4:2:2, 23.97hz or 25 depending on source material? Is this a setting that can be exactly specified on the output from the GPU? Can you use this to get netlifx 4k hdr to the projector? Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


i have a 1070, yup it can do those modes, haven't tried netflix though. i would search the thread for netflix.


----------



## gene4ht

rmilyard said:


> Also looking for good and solid ceiling mount for the 5040ub. I had in old place a cheap one that came bundled with it. It's pretty cheap. Doesn't stay adjustor at all.


Chief RPA357...hands down the best ceiling mount in terms of sturdiness, flexibility, and adjustability...a bit more than less capabable mounts but absolutely well worth the cost long term. See posts #4078 and #4158.


----------



## jbraatz

I just hung a 5040UB in my basement theatre. Currently I'm running Verizon Fios. Whenever action picks up in a sporting event the picture starts to pixelate. Has anyone else encountered this?

I've already checked all the wires to make sure everything is plugged in tight. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Juiced46

hatlesschimp said:


> Been playing Horizon Zero Dawn on the PS4 with the projector and love the game. I'm not really into these genre of game sometimes. I get moody LOL. Anyways it’s fantastic! Is anyone else playing this game on their PJ? My wife is disappointed I started it without her. It was late and I put it on for a quick look and next thing it was 3am! I was looking at getting Ghost Recon but I think it might feel to repetitive. All the gameplay videos I’ve seen of it so far remind me of Just cause mixed with GTA. I’m a little bored with that now. I also read somewhere one of the main producers has left Rock star to go make their own GTA styled/themed open world game called 'Everywhere'. Hmm.
> 
> https://youtu.be/LE3XaYfhstA



I watched a few of your YouTube videos and saw that you switched back and forth from 4K to 1080P w/HDR. How are you getting the PS4 Pro to display HDR in 1080P mode? I have tried everything and cannot get it to work. I set the PS4 Pro to 1080P manually, the HDR option on the PS4 only gives me Auto or Off to select. Are you using an HD Fury Linker or am I doing something wrong?


----------



## rmilyard

Azekecse said:


> Ok after curiosity and further investigation, I found one at a local BB, via a price match. I replaced my previous screen (0.8 gain Gray screen from HT Depot). Anyone need a 120" Gray Screen locally??? The screen took about 3 hours to mount from soup to nuts and I'm now configuring the new menu settings based on the 1.1 gain (only suitable for a controlled light environment)... At first I wasn't happy, but after a few hours of install/config this screen is awesome with my 6040UB projector, esp with Oppo Bluray 4k movies. I have some friends coming to watch the fight tomorrow, I didn't want to watch it, but my son wants to watch it, but I digress. Please let me know if you have any questions, I will try to address them. Glad I didn't have the ISF calibration done yet .
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Any pictures? You get 2.35:1 version?


----------



## slackmack

I am considering the 6040 bcuz of its anamorphic lens support (2.35 etc.) Does this mean I can remove my Lumagen XD video processor out of the loop for 2.35 AR? It does not support 4K or 3D in this version & an upgrade is very expensive.


----------



## ruggercb

Hey I just tried turning on the 5040ub and it's completely dead! It ran fine last night and shut down no problem. No lights, nothing tonight. The buttons on the pj don't work nor the remote. No lightning or anything. Checked the breaker. Has anyone else experienced this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Mine (6040) did that last month. I unplugged it for a few hours, plugged it back in and it works fine now.


----------



## Viche

I'm considering buying speaker stands, for a 5040 setup, that have a glass top and bottom plate over black painted metal with some small silver areas like these:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O05UGW/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IAKU7NYN6Z3KL&colid=23DNNYB9YWTVU

Do you think the glass or silver areas would reflect any signifigant amount of light back onto the screen?


----------



## ruggercb

inspector said:


> Mine (6040) did that last month. I unplugged it for a few hours, plugged it back in and it works fine now.




Thanks I'll try that this morning while we are gone. 3 hours suffice you think?

Edit - 3 hours fixed it, thanks again! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jgslima

*Firmware notification*

I'm about to buy my 5040, have been reading documentation.
It seems that firmware update is done only through USB. So does it mean that the projector does not notify the user that there is a new firmware available?
So how do we owners get to know that there is a new fw? By keep checking Epson website every month?


----------



## sddp

jgslima said:


> I'm about to buy my 5040, have been reading documentation.
> It seems that firmware update is done only through USB. So does it mean that the projector does not notify the user that there is a new firmware available?
> So how do we owners get to know that there is a new fw? By keep checking Epson website every month?


As far as I know, yes. Or check on this post regularly as someone always mentions it


----------



## above1

ruggercb said:


> Hey I just tried turning on the 5040ub and it's completely dead! It ran fine last night and shut down no problem. No lights, nothing tonight. The buttons on the pj don't work nor the remote. No lightning or anything. Checked the breaker. Has anyone else experienced this?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


yes. the 3rd swap out lasted me about 30 days or so. Power supply was blown. My son was watching and it turned off. Never to turn on again.

Call epson roadside support and have then swap it out for you. 

hope that helps


----------



## Cajunpepe

...and 10,000!!!


----------



## inspector

ruggercb said:


> Thanks I'll try that this morning while we are gone. 3 hours suffice you think?
> 
> Edit - 3 hours fixed it, thanks again!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Went to turn it on this evening and it wouldn't come on. It'll be unplugged until tomorrow and it better start up.


Happening twice is not good news.


----------



## achanonier

achanonier said:


> Hi again.
> I'm reporting back !
> 
> So.... I must admit that I like the picture I get with thoses settings.
> 
> I lowered the contrast to 45 in order to have a little less clipping and played a little with the gamma curve to fit with my environment . The picture looks great.
> Much more HDR like than my previous settings (either HDR1 with Natural Custom Gamma cuvre or FLAT with UB700 HDR slider) where I always managed to have no clipping.
> It's really a matter of preference : you can have
> - A very HDR like but overall dark image with no clipping (HDR 2 without custom gamma curve)
> - A softer with less contrast (not so HDR) image that is bright with no clipping (HDR 1 with Superwhite ON and custom gamma curve, or Ub700 HDR Slider) which is what I used to favor.
> - A HDR like image that is bright enough with a little clipping (OLedurt's) which is I think a really good compromise
> 
> I made a all lot of tests last night swithcing back and forth between my new Oledurt's inspired settings and my previous settings.
> Some UHD BR : Revenant, Mad Max, DeadPool, Pacific Rim, Magnificent 7
> Netflix Series : Iron Fist, Marco Polo
> Amazon Series : Man in the High Castle
> PS 4 Pro : TLOU remastered
> 
> I'm really happy with what I get !
> 
> I'll post some pictures latter !



Hi again !
After testing again and agin I found out that I was finnaly not happy with the Oledurt Setting.
I don't like the Bright Cinema setting. The overall dynamic is great but the picture always looked hazy or a little wached out in the mid dark area... I prefer Natural setting that resolves much more details in those areas.


So I'm now using a setting based on Natural mode and a custom gamma setting of my own and I must say that I'm amazed by the picture I get. Biright, very dynamic, almost no white crush and a great HDR effect.


I've been watching Ghost in the Shell and played Uncharted Lost Legacy in HDR and I've been impressed every single second...


----------



## siuengr

achanonier said:


> Hi again !
> After testing again and agin I found out that I was finnaly not happy with the Oledurt Setting.
> I don't like the Bright Cinema setting. The overall dynamic is great but the picture always looked hazy or a little wached out in the mid dark area... I prefer Natural setting that resolves much more details in those areas.
> 
> 
> So I'm now using a setting based on Natural mode and a custom gamma setting of my own and I must say that I'm amazed by the picture I get. Biright, very dynamic, almost no white crush and a great HDR effect.
> 
> 
> I've been watching Ghost in the Shell and played Uncharted Lost Legacy in HDR and I've been impressed every single second...


Willing to share those settings?


----------



## WhatILike

Juiced46 said:


> I watched a few of your YouTube videos and saw that you switched back and forth from 4K to 1080P w/HDR. How are you getting the PS4 Pro to display HDR in 1080P mode? I have tried everything and cannot get it to work. I set the PS4 Pro to 1080P manually, the HDR option on the PS4 only gives me Auto or Off to select. Are you using an HD Fury Linker or am I doing something wrong?


I'm wondering the same thing. Did you ever find out if an HD Fury is required?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

achanonier said:


> Hi again !
> After testing again and agin I found out that I was finnaly not happy with the Oledurt Setting.
> I don't like the Bright Cinema setting. The overall dynamic is great but the picture always looked hazy or a little wached out in the mid dark area... I prefer Natural setting that resolves much more details in those areas.
> 
> 
> So I'm now using a setting based on Natural mode and a custom gamma setting of my own and I must say that I'm amazed by the picture I get. Biright, very dynamic, almost no white crush and a great HDR effect.
> 
> 
> I've been watching Ghost in the Shell and played Uncharted Lost Legacy in HDR and I've been impressed every single second...




I had my calibrator by this weekend, and he re calibrated the bright cinema mode. We used expanded video range on the hdmi settings. He used a different offset in Calman so that we did not have to push the gamma so far.

Because when you push that gamma too much you get red push. So I have a new gamma curve. He also re calibrated all the colors

When you use the expanded video range it raises the black floor, and you have to lower the brightness to bring the blacks back.

We got a very good grayscale. The best thing that he accomplished was extending the white clipping point to 1200 nits, and also the color clipping point to over 1000 nits. Really the only downside to using Bright Cinema over Digital Cinema is that the colors are more accurate in Digital Cinema. There is an error in green that he could not quite bring all the way into ISF spec.

As far as WCG You do get some wider colors in digital cinema mode theoretically but they clip way way earlier so you won't see them anyway because of the lack of brightness in that mode.

With this calibration I am able to get very good shadow detail and colors. I watched Alien Covenant last night it has a many dark scenes. Shadow detail was great.

The brights are even better. HDR affects are BRIGHT to the point sometimes you have to avert your eyes lol. He tested peak brightness in my room at 35.7 foot lamberts which is over 120 nits. Which he said was pretty amazing.

Short story it looks amazing. 

If you guys are interested i'll post the settings for you. Keep in mind your mileage will vary, but I will ask that you plug them in as is first, and watch some material before you start tweaking them.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## flapjackdowntheline

Haven't been here for while. Is there any consensus on the best all around settings for SDR?


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> I had my calibrator by this weekend, and he re calibrated the bright cinema mode. We used expanded video range on the hdmi settings. He used a different offset in Calman so that we did not have to push the gamma so far.
> 
> Because when you push that gamma too much you get red push. So I have a new gamma curve. He also re calibrated all the colors
> 
> When you use the expanded video range it raises the black floor, and you have to lower the brightness to bring the blacks back.
> 
> We got a very good grayscale. The best thing that he accomplished was extending the white clipping point to 1200 nits, and also the color clipping point to over 1000 nits. Really the only downside to using Bright Cinema over Digital Cinema is that the colors are more accurate in Digital Cinema. There is an error in green that he could not quite bring all the way into ISF spec.
> 
> As far as WCG You do get some wider colors in digital cinema mode theoretically but they clip way way earlier so you won't see them anyway because of the lack of brightness in that mode.
> 
> With this calibration I am able to get very good shadow detail and colors. I watched Alien Covenant last night it has a many dark scenes. Shadow detail was great.
> 
> The brights are even better. HDR affects are BRIGHT to the point sometimes you have to avert your eyes lol. He tested peak brightness in my room at 35.7 foot lamberts which is over 120 nits. Which he said was pretty amazing.
> 
> Short story it looks amazing.
> 
> If you guys are interested i'll post the settings for you. Keep in mind your mileage will vary, but I will ask that you plug them in as is first, and watch some material before you start tweaking them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



"The brights are even better. HDR affects are BRIGHT to the point sometimes you have to avert your eyes lol"

That doesn't sound great to me, surely the brighter your calibrator makes peak white highlights the less your going to see darker shadow detail in mixed APL scenes due to the human eye ?.

If you do share your settings (in full) I will be very happy to try them and report back


----------



## Azekecse

rmilyard said:


> Any pictures? You get 2.35:1 version?


No, I purchased the 16:9 120" version of the screen. Pictures will be forthcoming.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Chris the Rock

Oledurt said:


> I had my calibrator by this weekend, and he re calibrated the bright cinema mode. We used expanded video range on the hdmi settings. He used a different offset in Calman so that we did not have to push the gamma so far.
> 
> Because when you push that gamma too much you get red push. So I have a new gamma curve. He also re calibrated all the colors
> 
> When you use the expanded video range it raises the black floor, and you have to lower the brightness to bring the blacks back.
> 
> We got a very good grayscale. The best thing that he accomplished was extending the white clipping point to 1200 nits, and also the color clipping point to over 1000 nits. Really the only downside to using Bright Cinema over Digital Cinema is that the colors are more accurate in Digital Cinema. There is an error in green that he could not quite bring all the way into ISF spec.
> 
> As far as WCG You do get some wider colors in digital cinema mode theoretically but they clip way way earlier so you won't see them anyway because of the lack of brightness in that mode.
> 
> With this calibration I am able to get very good shadow detail and colors. I watched Alien Covenant last night it has a many dark scenes. Shadow detail was great.
> 
> The brights are even better. HDR affects are BRIGHT to the point sometimes you have to avert your eyes lol. He tested peak brightness in my room at 35.7 foot lamberts which is over 120 nits. Which he said was pretty amazing.
> 
> Short story it looks amazing.
> 
> If you guys are interested i'll post the settings for you. Keep in mind your mileage will vary, but I will ask that you plug them in as is first, and watch some material before you start tweaking them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I would also be interested. When you talk about red push, are you saying that your original settings exhibited that? Because I thought I noticed that - using your settings in my room - especially on Fate of the Furious (flesh tones seemed really red) and Guardians of the Galaxy 2 (the gold skinned characters really leaned to the "red" side).

Thanks for whatever you decide to share.


----------



## Oledurt

disregard


----------



## Craig Peer

Just a remainder for people thinking about getting an Epson 5040ub ( and e ) - they are on sale ( $200.00 off ) until 9 - 9 !


----------



## Oledurt

Chris the Rock said:


> I would also be interested. When you talk about red push, are you saying that your original settings exhibited that? Because I thought I noticed that - using your settings in my room - especially on Fate of the Furious (flesh tones seemed really red) and Guardians of the Galaxy 2 (the gold skinned characters really leaned to the "red" side).
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for whatever you decide to share.




Yes. The gamma curve of the bright settings I shared pushed red. Causing skin tones to look more red than they should have.

The reason that happened was because my calibrator was using a certain offset to account for the lack of brightness of projectors. Basically, trying to get the projector to track the EOTF. There is no guidance on how to do this so calibrators must be creative here. This is where having a calibrator who has experience with HDR calibration on projectors is very important.

This time he changed how he did it and used a different offset. This allowed him to use less gamma correction which eliminated the red push you observed.

He also re calibrated the colors.

I have watched two movies since he calibrated, and I am pleased with the result.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> "The brights are even better. HDR affects are BRIGHT to the point sometimes you have to avert your eyes lol"
> 
> 
> 
> That doesn't sound great to me, surely the brighter your calibrator makes peak white highlights the less your going to see darker shadow detail in mixed APL scenes due to the human eye ?.
> 
> 
> 
> If you do share your settings (in full) I will be very happy to try them and report back




When you walk outside during daytime it is many, many, many times brighter than any screen will ever be.
Yet your eyes have evolved to deal with the brightness of daytime as well as very dimly lit or low light scenarios. Your eye can adjust to seeing into very dark shadows. We don't just use our eyes to see. We can pretty accurately judge depth, and distance. For example we can judge how far a light is away from us or how "deep" a shadowed corner is. 

We spend thousands to create a realistic aural experience that matches closely how we would hear the events on screen in the real world.

HDR can in theory create a picture that more closely mimics how we see in real life which gives the affect of almost looking through the screen out a window into the world. Adding a dimensionality that makes things nearly look 3d.

In life we do not look directly into headlights at night. We avert our gaze a bit. We do this all the time. It does not hurt us. When we do the same on a screen it does not detract from the experience rather it brings us one step closer to reality.





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris the Rock

Oledurt said:


> Yes. The gamma curve of the bright settings I shared pushed red. Causing skin tones to look more red than they should have.
> 
> The reason that happened was because my calibrator was using a certain offset to account for the lack of brightness of projectors. Basically, trying to get the projector to track the EOTF. There is no guidance on how to do this so calibrators must be creative here. This is where having a calibrator who has experience with HDR calibration on projectors is very important.
> 
> This time he changed how he did it and used a different offset. This allowed him to use less gamma correction which eliminated the red push you observed.
> 
> He also re calibrated the colors.
> 
> I have watched two movies since he calibrated, and I am pleased with the result.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks for confirming. Should you decide to share your updated settings, I'll be very happy to try them.

Did you stick with medium lamp mode, or have you gone to high to get such high peak brightness? Just curious. 

For the record, I would be happy to pay for my own calibration if there were any calibrators in my area (Northern Colorado). I just missed one of the Lion A/V guys who travels out this way in February, and I can't seem to find any others.


----------



## Oledurt

Chris the Rock said:


> Thanks for confirming. Should you decide to share your updated settings, I'll be very happy to try them.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you stick with medium lamp mode, or have you gone to high to get such high peak brightness? Just curious.
> 
> 
> 
> For the record, I would be happy to pay for my own calibration if there were any calibrators in my area (Northern Colorado). I just missed one of the Lion A/V guys who travels out this way in February, and I can't seem to find any others.




medium lamp i'll put the new settings together for you.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

achanonier said:


> Hi again !
> After testing again and agin I found out that I was finnaly not happy with the Oledurt Setting.
> I don't like the Bright Cinema setting. The overall dynamic is great but the picture always looked hazy or a little wached out in the mid dark area... I prefer Natural setting that resolves much more details in those areas.
> 
> 
> So I'm now using a setting based on Natural mode and a custom gamma setting of my own and I must say that I'm amazed by the picture I get. Biright, very dynamic, almost no white crush and a great HDR effect.
> 
> 
> I've been watching Ghost in the Shell and played Uncharted Lost Legacy in HDR and I've been impressed every single second...


As Natural mode does not have the Rec.2020 WCG or drop the DCI-P3 filter into position I would be interested in the settings you used


----------



## Metric

Would the 5040 work with a UH380 lens to do 2.35:1 CH?


----------



## achanonier

Lesmor said:


> As Natural mode does not have the Rec.2020 WCG or drop the DCI-P3 filter into position I would be interested in the settings you used


OK here is what I ended up with

Signal : 
Everything auto except HDR Auto Bright

Image settings
Natural Color mode
Brightness 50
Contrast 42
Color 54
Tint 50
Color Temp 6500k / 4
Super White Off
Custom Gamma Curve : 0 10 18 26 31 31 31 22 0
Lens Iris 0
Auto Iris Normal

This settings works well for me even in Eco Lamp Mode.


----------



## NetViper

Craig Peer said:


> Just a remainder for people thinking about getting an Epson 5040ub ( and e ) - they are on sale ( $200.00 off ) until 9 - 9 !


Would the 6040ub also be $200 off?


----------



## Craig Peer

NetViper said:


> Would the 6040ub also be $200 off?


Unfortunately not.


----------



## Juiced46

WhatILike said:


> I'm wondering the same thing. Did you ever find out if an HD Fury is required?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


I have not. Hatlesschimp did not reply and I also asked the question a few pages with back about the HD Fury and nobody replied to it either.


----------



## TungstenBMW

above1 said:


> yes. the 3rd swap out lasted me about 30 days or so. Power supply was blown. My son was watching and it turned off. Never to turn on again.
> 
> Call epson roadside support and have then swap it out for you.
> 
> hope that helps


Add me to the list of the no power up issue w/ 4040.



Original unit lasted 3-4 months of moderate use, then no power up
Epson promptly sent a refurb, but its lens was marred up - didn't notice until I went through the trouble of ceiling mounting and reconfiguring. 
Refurb two showed up a couple days later, lens was worse! didn't plug it in. 
They agreed to send a new unit. No issues other than needing a small van to return all the large boxes. Until now.. power issue again. 
.


----------



## Azekecse

TungstenBMW said:


> Add me to the list of the no power up issue w/ 4040.
> 
> 
> 
> Original unit lasted 3-4 months of moderate use, then no power up
> Epson promptly sent a refurb, but its lens was marred up - didn't notice until I went through the trouble of ceiling mounting and reconfiguring.
> Refurb two showed up a couple days later, lens was worse! didn't plug it in.
> They agreed to send a new unit. No issues other than needing a small van to return all the large boxes. Until now.. power issue again.
> .


Sophomoric question: Did you have the Lan cable attached to the projector??? If so, disconnect and try again.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Oledurt

I will be posting my new settings in a bit. I have made a few tweaks. In bright cinema the colors can be a bit over saturated so I turned the saturation and tint down a bit, also the skin tone setting down 1 click. I am pretty happy with it but need to test it a bit more.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

*REMOVED*. 

You can thank Panaman40


----------



## TungstenBMW

Azekecse said:


> Sophomoric question: Did you have the Lan cable attached to the projector??? If so, disconnect and try again.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


No cables attached except for the power cable of which I tried a few. Ruled out the outlet and surge protector too. Coincidentally, these are the first thing Epson asks too.


----------



## Chris the Rock

Oledurt said:


> Here are my final settings for HDR. These supersede all other settings I have offered. Contrast now extends to 1200 nits. Colors all extend to 1000 nits or more. You will want to set your own brightness setting, and you can set the color saturation, and tint settings to your liking.
> 
> I would ask that you try the settings as is first, and let me know what you think.
> 
> Finally, these are the result of tweaking I have done as well as my calibrator Michael Boeker of High Impact AV.
> 
> highimpactav.com
> 
> I have spent nearly $500 on multiple Calibrations to achieve this result, on this projector. I would ask, with respect that you limit criticisms of the settings in your space. These were created for me, and my Theater. Your results will vary.
> 
> Positive feedback is always welcome. With that here are my complete settings for HDR.
> 
> Color Mode Bright Cinema
> Brightness 40
> Contrast 50
> Color Saturation 43
> Tint 43
> Sharpness 5/5/5
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 5
> 
> Customized
> Offset R 50
> Offset G 50
> Offset B 52
> Gain R 52
> Gain G 52
> Gain B 41
> 
> Image Enhancement Preset 1
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris Off
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma 0,1,2,4,6,8,8,6,0
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> R 53,45,54
> G 53,50,40
> B 56,43,50
> C 67,46,50
> M 71,43,54
> Y 48,47,49
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> Signal Menu-->Advanced
> HDMI Video Range Expanded
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto(bright)
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I would like to join a host of others in thanking you for your time and sharing your settings and your journey to get there. 

For clarity, if you feel inclined - can you say whether you use this for 1.78:1 or 2.35:1? And do you find that you need to make any changes when going from one to the other? 

And it is true, is it not, that adjusting anything in the signal menu means all of your saved memory slots will be affected by those adjustments? Specifically, the HDMI Video Range being set to Expanded means I'd need to re-calibrate my other memories to adjust the Brightness & Contrast to fit with the Expanded video range - or go to the hassle of re-setting the HDMI Video range each time I switch to these settings.

In any case, I will be dialing these settings in tonight and spinning up GOTG2 which I watched this weekend using your old settings and it looked fantastic, if not a skosh on the red side (as you alluded to before). I'll put this in a different memory slot and swap between them to really appreciate the differences. 

With all the help that you and others have been, my enjoyment of the movies I've watched on this projector has increased since I first installed it earlier this year. I need to go back and watch The Accountant one more time, because I remember being wholly unimpressed by UHD when I saw that movie, and thus began my journey to see what I could do to improve the experience...and it led me here to lurk for the last few months.


----------



## Oledurt

Chris the Rock said:


> I would like to join a host of others in thanking you for your time and sharing your settings and your journey to get there.
> 
> 
> 
> For clarity, if you feel inclined - can you say whether you use this for 1.78:1 or 2.35:1? And do you find that you need to make any changes when going from one to the other?
> 
> 
> 
> And it is true, is it not, that adjusting anything in the signal menu means all of your saved memory slots will be affected by those adjustments? Specifically, the HDMI Video Range being set to Expanded means I'd need to re-calibrate my other memories to adjust the Brightness & Contrast to fit with the Expanded video range - or go to the hassle of re-setting the HDMI Video range each time I switch to these settings.
> 
> 
> 
> In any case, I will be dialing these settings in tonight and spinning up GOTG2 which I watched this weekend using your old settings and it looked fantastic, if not a skosh on the red side (as you alluded to before). I'll put this in a different memory slot and swap between them to really appreciate the differences.
> 
> 
> 
> With all the help that you and others have been, my enjoyment of the movies I've watched on this projector has increased since I first installed it earlier this year. I need to go back and watch The Accountant one more time, because I remember being wholly unimpressed by UHD when I saw that movie, and thus began my journey to see what I could do to improve the experience...and it led me here to lurk for the last few months.




Well I am glad I could help! Yes when you change that HDMI video range to expanded you have to switch it back when you change modes. Unfortunately, this is not user friendly.

You will notice as you switch settings between these and my old settings how much more red the old settings have as well as the over saturation of colors. 

Also, it will appear less bright. Don't be fooled though because the shadow details are actually better in my new settings. Contrast is extended much further while still maintaining a great average picture level as well as awesome shadow detail. Lights, explosions, and specular highlights will be very bright.

Watch some dark scenes I assure you that you will be impressed.

I also corrected the skin tones with my new settings, skin tones are much more accurate. Skin tones were too red before.

I use a 125 inch cinemascope screen 2:35.1 I use the same settings regardless of aspect ratio.






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris the Rock

Oledurt said:


> Well I am glad I could help! Yes when you change that HDMI video range to expanded you have to switch it back when you change modes. Unfortunately, this is not user friendly.
> 
> You will notice as you switch settings between these and my old settings how much more red the old settings have as well as the over saturation of colors.
> 
> Also, it will appear less bright. Don't be fooled though because the shadow details are actually better in my new settings. Contrast is extended much further while still maintaining a great average picture level as well as awesome shadow detail. Lights, explosions, and specular highlights will be very bright.
> 
> Watch some dark scenes I assure you that you will be impressed.
> 
> I also corrected the skin tones with my new settings, skin tones are much more accurate. Skin tones were too red before.
> 
> I use a 125 inch cinemascope screen 2:35.1 I use the same settings regardless of aspect ratio.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks!
I'll probably also check out Alien Covenant, which I recently watched also and is loaded with dark scenes.


----------



## Oledurt

Chris the Rock said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I'll probably also check out Alien Covenant, which I recently watched also and is loaded with dark scenes.




I just watched it this afternoon, I was impressed. Not with the plot, but the shadow detail.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rmerlano

Oledurt said:


> Well I am glad I could help! Yes when you change that HDMI video range to expanded you have to switch it back when you change modes. Unfortunately, this is not user friendly.
> 
> You will notice as you switch settings between these and my old settings how much more red the old settings have as well as the over saturation of colors.
> 
> Also, it will appear less bright. Don't be fooled though because the shadow details are actually better in my new settings. Contrast is extended much further while still maintaining a great average picture level as well as awesome shadow detail. Lights, explosions, and specular highlights will be very bright.
> 
> Watch some dark scenes I assure you that you will be impressed.
> 
> I also corrected the skin tones with my new settings, skin tones are much more accurate. Skin tones were too red before.
> 
> I use a 125 inch cinemascope screen 2:35.1 I use the same settings regardless of aspect ratio.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Do you think that your old/new setting will work fine with 150" Screen 1.1 gain? Its a Elite Screen Matte White.


----------



## Oledurt

rmerlano said:


> Do you think that your old/new setting will work fine with 150" Screen 1.1 gain? Its a Elite Screen Matte White.




you will need to tweak the brightness. 

this is my screen

http://www.alltecstores.com/Project...usticPro1080P3-Curve235-125A1080P3-76215.html


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rmerlano

Nice screen!

So, with the adequate tweaking would work fine? Like yours in a smaller screen?

Currently I´ve the Epson 5020UB, and looking for a new budget 4K projector, so I´m trying to select the best option for my HT (totally controlled ligth room). One of my options is the Epson 5040UB.

Thank you!


----------



## ayrton

*Harmony Remote with 5040 UBe*

Anyone here using a Harmony with the WiFi box for the UBe? I plan on getting one, but if it won't control the WiFi on it, I will pass..

TIA!

Thanks Oledurt for the new HDR settings.


----------



## ht guy

Metric said:


> Would the 5040 work with a UH380 lens to do 2.35:1 CH?


Yes - as long as your source device (i.e.: Oppo 203) can do vertical stretch.

If you want vertical stretch in the projector, you will need the 6040.


----------



## achanonier

Oledurt said:


> Here are my final settings for HDR. These supersede all other settings I have offered. Contrast now extends to 1200 nits. Colors all extend to 1000 nits or more. You will want to set your own brightness setting, and you can set the color saturation, and tint settings to your liking.
> 
> I would ask that you try the settings as is first, and let me know what you think.
> 
> Finally, these are the result of tweaking I have done as well as my calibrator Michael Boeker of High Impact AV.
> 
> highimpactav.com
> 
> I have spent nearly $500 on multiple Calibrations to achieve this result, on this projector. I would ask, with respect that you limit criticisms of the settings in your space. These were created for me, and my Theater. Your results will vary.
> 
> Positive feedback is always welcome. With that here are my complete settings for HDR.
> 
> Color Mode Bright Cinema
> Brightness 40
> Contrast 50
> Color Saturation 43
> Tint 43
> Sharpness 5/5/5
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 5
> 
> Customized
> Offset R 50
> Offset G 50
> Offset B 52
> Gain R 52
> Gain G 52
> Gain B 41
> 
> Image Enhancement Preset 1
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris Off
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma 0,1,2,4,6,8,8,6,0
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> R 53,45,54
> G 53,50,40
> B 56,43,50
> C 67,46,50
> M 71,43,54
> Y 48,47,49
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> Signal Menu-->Advanced
> HDMI Video Range Expanded
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto(bright)
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thx a lot for your time and sharing.

I will take a look probably tonight ! 

One question though : 

Do I need to dial in your customized colorsettings and RGBYCM values? I always though those were PJ depedant.
Or do they participate to the added brighness & balance of the picture ?

Thx again


----------



## Aardawg

New member here, although I've lurked and read for a while. 

Seriously considering buying this projector at 2499 today. Debating between this and the Sony VPL HW45ES.

Curious to hear from owners: 

How loud is it (Projector will be mounted basically directly overhead from an 8' ceiling), and how it performs in gaming (I have ps4 and xbox one, and will be getting xbox one x in november.) Is there any sort of input lag (noticeable at all?)


----------



## Augmont

ht guy said:


> If you want vertical stretch in the projector, you will need the 6040.


Can you please elaborate on this. i thought the difference between the 5040 and 6040 was just the warranty, extra bulb, and ISF calibration memory. Sorry if this has been covered already.


----------



## jason_galaxy

Hey everyone, I found a great scene to test the dynamic range of all the settings. 
Star Trek just before the Iowa bar scene. In this you should see the detail in the
bright part of the sunset and the corn rows in the shadows.

My favorite setting is "Oledurt's take on Harper" 
I can get very close with Auto (bright), upping the contrast a bit and gamma +2
I found Oledurt's latest settings too dark, however, I have not tried tweaking the brightness and contrast yet.

Again this is may not pass a instrument test, but as I said after 40 years of photography
I know how to look for blown highlights and clipped blacks


----------



## Oledurt

jason_galaxy said:


> Hey everyone, I found a great scene to test the dynamic range of all the settings.
> 
> Start Trek just before the Iowa bar scene. In this you should see the detail in the
> 
> bright part of the sunset and the corn rows in the shadows.
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite setting is "Oledurt's take on Harper"
> 
> I can get very close with Auto (bright), upping the contrast a bit and gamma +2
> 
> I found Oledurt's latest settings too dark, however, I have not tried tweaking the brightness and contrast yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Again this is may not pass a instrument test, but as I said after 40 years of photography
> 
> I know how to look for blown highlights and clipped blacks




Looking good. I like to watch the beginning of man of steel the explosions are so bright like a camera flash. Also great shadow detail when Jor El goes onto the platform.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Boggle

Aardawg said:


> New member here, although I've lurked and read for a while.
> 
> Seriously considering buying this projector at 2499 today. Debating between this and the Sony VPL HW45ES.
> 
> Curious to hear from owners:
> 
> How loud is it (Projector will be mounted basically directly overhead from an 8' ceiling), and how it performs in gaming (I have ps4 and xbox one, and will be getting xbox one x in november.) Is there any sort of input lag (noticeable at all?)


there is no noticeable input lag. i think it is measured at like 28ms of lag, which is excellent. for noise, on medium power, you would be able to hear it if it was above you, but its not loud, my AC is louder. on low it is a little quieter. i haven't used high mode much. according to projectorcentral medium is 20 db.

overall it is one of the quietest projectors i have owned.


----------



## Labud420

Mine never makes any noise , I have all my settings on high...


----------



## Azekecse

Augmont said:


> Can you please elaborate on this. i thought the difference between the 5040 and 6040 was just the warranty, extra bulb, and ISF calibration memory. Sorry if this has been covered already.


Also it is anamorphic lens capable...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

rmilyard said:


> Any pictures? You get 2.35:1 version?


As you wish, pictures attached (taken with iPhone), still tweaking settings...I'm off for the next few days, so I will have more time for customizing the picture settings.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## ht guy

Metric said:


> Would the 5040 work with a UH380 lens to do 2.35:1 CH?





ht guy said:


> Yes - as long as your source device (i.e.: Oppo 203) can do vertical stretch.
> 
> If you want vertical stretch in the projector, you will need the 6040.





Augmont said:


> Can you please elaborate on this. i thought the difference between the 5040 and 6040 was just the warranty, extra bulb, and ISF calibration memory. Sorry if this has been covered already.


I've read more than one review that missed that difference. There is no vertical stretch on the 5040.

I ended up having to return a 5040 for the 6040 to get vertical stretch. I considered using the 203's input - until I realized I have _two_ other devices that play 235 content.

My calibrator said this was likely the last projector for the lens, but hey, I didn't expect it to last this long!


----------



## rmilyard

Azekecse said:


> As you wish, pictures attached (taken with iPhone), still tweaking settings...I'm off for the next few days, so I will have more time for customizing the picture settings.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Looks pretty good. So not seen any distortion from the curve?

Might get one if not m


----------



## Category5

So I've been reevaluating my uhd hdr bluray collection to find the best settings. It seemed that trying to use bright cinema or SDR with custom gamma was always missing something. There was always something too forced in the picture... blownout highlights, or crushed blacks, or weird skin tones, or extra noise. Just something that was annoying. I've settled on the following:

Digital Cinema / HDR1 / bt 2020 / medium lamp & iris / hdmi range normal 

Brightness 46
Contrast 36
Color 86 
Tint 50

The gut reaction when switching to the settings for me was that it it's too dark. But after watching a few different movies I began to realize that it's providing the most realistic picture for the way the content is mastered. I can see all the detail in dark scenes, I can see the color of the sky in the background and the details in the clouds. The people look real. Like I can reach out and touch their faces. The skin tones and facial detail are very natural. The digital cinema setting is the only setting that really lets you tap into the wider color gamut. Which doesn't necessarily mean brighter in your face color but realistic as nature intended it color. So I was able to just watch the movies and really get pulled into them without feeling like it was off. Anyway, my 2 cents.


----------



## inspector

Oledurt said:


> Here are my final settings for HDR. These supersede all other settings I have offered. Contrast now extends to 1200 nits. Colors all extend to 1000 nits or more. You will want to set your own brightness setting, and you can set the color saturation, and tint settings to your liking.
> 
> I would ask that you try the settings as is first, and let me know what you think.
> 
> Finally, these are the result of tweaking I have done as well as my calibrator Michael Boeker of High Impact AV.
> 
> highimpactav.com
> 
> I have spent nearly $500 on multiple Calibrations to achieve this result, on this projector. I would ask, with respect that you limit criticisms of the settings in your space. These were created for me, and my Theater. Your results will vary.
> 
> Positive feedback is always welcome. With that here are my complete settings for HDR.
> 
> Color Mode Bright Cinema
> Brightness 40
> Contrast 50
> Color Saturation 43
> Tint 43
> Sharpness 5/5/5
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 5
> 
> Customized
> Offset R 50
> Offset G 50
> Offset B 52
> Gain R 52
> Gain G 52
> Gain B 41
> 
> Image Enhancement Preset 1
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris Off
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma 0,1,2,4,6,8,8,6,0
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> R 53,45,54
> G 53,50,40
> B 56,43,50
> C 67,46,50
> M 71,43,54
> Y 48,47,49
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> Signal Menu-->Advanced
> HDMI Video Range Expanded
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto(bright)
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Thanks Oledurt! I tried out your settings this afternoon on my 6040 with PASSENGERS, the only UHD I have. The picture looked fantastic. I even tried out the BD and it still looked great, so now I'm using the settings for both.


----------



## achanonier

Hi There

I tested those new settings from Oledurt !
It effectively looks great but still a little too dark for me and still I don't really like what Bright Cinema does to the medium dark tones...
Keep in mond that I only use it in eco mode as I find the PJ too loud in Medium or High.
All this is a matter of taste I believe, I do prefer my Natural setting posted above (I lowered the Color saturation to 50) but it has a drawback, my white clips arround 750 nits.


----------



## Azekecse

rmilyard said:


> Looks pretty good. So not seen any distortion from the curve?
> 
> Might get one if not m


Hey Rmilyard. Specifically what type of distortion? I will get back with you in a few days now that I have time off to tweak. Thanks Oledurt for your Elite Curved screen settings, I have a good baseline to work with now. 

I may have considered the 2:35:1 version if it was available since I own the 6040, but I picked up the 16:9 screen for ~$300.00 off and it was immediately available. 

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

Oledurt said:


> you will need to tweak the brightness.
> 
> this is my screen
> 
> http://www.alltecstores.com/Project...usticPro1080P3-Curve235-125A1080P3-76215.html
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks Oledurt for your Elite curved screen settings, this will save time. A few questions:

How is your Elite curve screened working out for you? 

Approximately how far in did you place the bottom brackets? 

Are you using the the projectors setting for 2:35:1 or an anamorphic lens?

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## inspector

Augmont said:


> Can you please elaborate on this. i thought the difference between the 5040 and 6040 was just the warranty, extra bulb, and ISF calibration memory. Sorry if this has been covered already.



The 6040 comes with a Chief CHF 4500 ceiling mount that sells for $100 to $260 on eBay.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

TW9300 (6040/5040ub) got EISA award for best product 2017/2018 in home theatre projector category:

https://www.eisa.eu/awards/epson-eh-tw9300w/ 

something tells me 5040ub won't be refreshed this year (HDMI...)

Anyways decision made. Bought ELMPB30 ceiling mount and in two weeks time after IFA (if nothing new from Epson) I'm buying 5040ub.

IMHO 5040 is still the best choice at the moment.


----------



## Chris the Rock

Oledurt said:


> Well I am glad I could help! Yes when you change that HDMI video range to expanded you have to switch it back when you change modes. Unfortunately, this is not user friendly.
> 
> You will notice as you switch settings between these and my old settings how much more red the old settings have as well as the over saturation of colors.
> 
> Also, it will appear less bright. Don't be fooled though because the shadow details are actually better in my new settings. Contrast is extended much further while still maintaining a great average picture level as well as awesome shadow detail. Lights, explosions, and specular highlights will be very bright.
> 
> Watch some dark scenes I assure you that you will be impressed.
> 
> I also corrected the skin tones with my new settings, skin tones are much more accurate. Skin tones were too red before.
> 
> I use a 125 inch cinemascope screen 2:35.1 I use the same settings regardless of aspect ratio.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I've had a chance to plug your settings in. I used the R. Masciola test patterns for brightness, contrast, and color saturation checking in my room. My room is light controlled, and I'm shooting at a 150" 2.35:1 Seymour AT screen from about 17 feet away. My 1.78:1 picture is about 120" diagonal, and I sit about 13 feet to the screen.

I found that I had to lower the brightness to about 40 and raise the contrast to about 56 (If I recall correctly) to fall in the right parameters in the black clipping and white clipping patterns (looking for everything below "absolute black" to stop flashing in the black clipping pattern, and for the white clipping pattern to stop flashing at the marker that says 1,000 nits). When looking at the color bar patterns, I raised the color saturation to 50 and the tint to 47, looking at the patterns in blue-isolated color mode. The red and green color bar patterns looked good (in red and green isolated modes) after that. 

I also prefer to have the Image Enhancement preset set to level 3 or 4 instead of 1, which just looks a little "fuzzy" by comparison. 

After those adjustments, I played some scenes from Alien Covenant and Guardians of the Galaxy 2, two movies I most recently watched using your settings before. In Alien Covenant - though the story still came up sort, I was very happy with the level of detail in the dark scenes. In GOTG2, the red push was noticeably absent, especially in scene 2 in the Sovereign home planet. 

Afterwards, I re-adjusted my SDR memory slots for Blu-Rays on Natural (using the Disney WOW disc) and Gaming on Bright Cinema (using the Xbox One's HDTV calibration settings program). With the HDMI video range set to "Expanded", the contrast had to go WAY up, to almost 80. Brightness and color needed slight tweaks also. I'm using standard gamma of 0 for Natural and -1 for games.

Overall, I continue to be happy with this projector, and I think I'm ready to quit tinkering and just enjoy the movies for a while. Isn't that the point, after all?

Thanks again for sharing, and I'll continue to sneak a peek here every once in a while to see what's going on.


----------



## ruggercb

TungstenBMW said:


> Add me to the list of the no power up issue w/ 4040.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Original unit lasted 3-4 months of moderate use, then no power up
> 
> Epson promptly sent a refurb, but its lens was marred up - didn't notice until I went through the trouble of ceiling mounting and reconfiguring.
> 
> Refurb two showed up a couple days later, lens was worse! didn't plug it in.
> 
> They agreed to send a new unit. No issues other than needing a small van to return all the large boxes. Until now.. power issue again.
> 
> .




So my 5040 never powered on; the blue light turned on so I thought it was fixed. Wrong! I hit the power button and the light shut off, no amount of button pressing or bad language would revive it.

Epson is overnighting me a refurb...one question- do the refurbs come with a new bulb? I'm guessing so but you never know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

Chris the Rock said:


> I've had a chance to plug your settings in. I used the R. Masciola test patterns for brightness, contrast, and color saturation checking in my room. My room is light controlled, and I'm shooting at a 150" 2.35:1 Seymour AT screen from about 17 feet away. My 1.78:1 picture is about 120" diagonal, and I sit about 13 feet to the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I found that I had to lower the brightness to about 40 and raise the contrast to about 56 (If I recall correctly) to fall in the right parameters in the black clipping and white clipping patterns (looking for everything below "absolute black" to stop flashing in the black clipping pattern, and for the white clipping pattern to stop flashing at the marker that says 1,000 nits). When looking at the color bar patterns, I raised the color saturation to 50 and the tint to 47, looking at the patterns in blue-isolated color mode. The red and green color bar patterns looked good (in red and green isolated modes) after that.
> 
> 
> 
> I also prefer to have the Image Enhancement preset set to level 3 or 4 instead of 1, which just looks a little "fuzzy" by comparison.
> 
> 
> 
> After those adjustments, I played some scenes from Alien Covenant and Guardians of the Galaxy 2, two movies I most recently watched using your settings before. In Alien Covenant - though the story still came up sort, I was very happy with the level of detail in the dark scenes. In GOTG2, the red push was noticeably absent, especially in scene 2 in the Sovereign home planet.
> 
> 
> 
> Afterwards, I re-adjusted my SDR memory slots for Blu-Rays on Natural (using the Disney WOW disc) and Gaming on Bright Cinema (using the Xbox One's HDTV calibration settings program). With the HDMI video range set to "Expanded", the contrast had to go WAY up, to almost 80. Brightness and color needed slight tweaks also. I'm using standard gamma of 0 for Natural and -1 for games.
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, I continue to be happy with this projector, and I think I'm ready to quit tinkering and just enjoy the movies for a while. Isn't that the point, after all?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for sharing, and I'll continue to sneak a peek here every once in a while to see what's going on.




Glad to hear it worked out for you. Something to play with is the auto iris and lens iris. You can get better blacks and shadow details. I am using auto iris now and have the lens iris at -8.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Oledurt said:


> Here are my final settings for HDR. These supersede all other settings I have offered. Contrast now extends to 1200 nits. Colors all extend to 1000 nits or more. You will want to set your own brightness setting, and you can set the color saturation, and tint settings to your liking.
> 
> I would ask that you try the settings as is first, and let me know what you think.
> 
> Finally, these are the result of tweaking I have done as well as my calibrator Michael Boeker of High Impact AV.
> 
> highimpactav.com
> 
> I have spent nearly $500 on multiple Calibrations to achieve this result, on this projector. I would ask, with respect that you limit criticisms of the settings in your space. These were created for me, and my Theater. Your results will vary.


Thank you once again for sharing your settings. So very helpful for everyone. I know I asked you once before, but did you happen to get a calibration report for this latest calibration? I would be very interested in understanding what the measured luminance is for the greyscale with this gamma setting.


----------



## Oledurt

jwhn said:


> Thank you once again for sharing your settings. So very helpful for everyone. I know I asked you once before, but did you happen to get a calibration report for this latest calibration? I would be very interested in understanding what the measured luminance is for the greyscale with this gamma setting.




I do not have reports. Thanks for asking.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## NetViper

inspector said:


> The 6040 comes with a Chief CHF 4500 ceiling mount that sells for $100 to $260 on eBay.


So it's $500-1000 more for $100 mount, $100 bulb and an extra year of warranty. Hard to justify, especially if you don't want it more than 2 years. 

I'm going with the 5040 but I know it's gone as soon as they come out with one with 18gbs hdmi chips.


----------



## NetViper

MartyMcFlyy said:


> TW9300 (6040/5040ub) got EISA award for best product 2017/2018 in home theatre projector category:
> 
> https://www.eisa.eu/awards/epson-eh-tw9300w/
> 
> something tells me 5040ub won't be refreshed this year (HDMI...)
> 
> Anyways decision made. Bought ELMPB30 ceiling mount and in two weeks time after IFA (if nothing new from Epson) I'm buying 5040ub.
> 
> IMHO 5040 is still the best choice at the moment.


I'm getting mine now while it's $200 off. You can always leave it in the box and return it if something new doesn't come out. Which it sounds like nothing new is coming according to projector peeps.


----------



## Juiced46

Oledurt, I just want to say thanks for your new settings. I finally got my 4K and HDR working with my Xbox One S. It looked decent with my slightly tweaked settings I did on my own. With your new settings it is much improved and looks fantastic to me. I had to tweak brightness and contrast to my room/liking as expected. Very happy with the results. 

Here a few pictures of Fast and Furious 8 in UHD and Madden on the Xbox One S. Hopefully the pictures show as I have been having issues linking pics off my Google Photos account.


----------



## chiltonj

Oledurt, I thought my 6040 picture was pretty good out of the box. Your settings just took it to a whole new level I never thought existed. Only thing I changed was image enhancement preset 3 which is a personal preference. Another thing I noticed is on my directv guide, the advertised channels with white banners used to flicker. I chalked it up to directv. But no more. It's unbelievable and text is much more focused in detail. The only negative is that I had Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen on while making the adjustments. Dumb &*# movie. THANK YOU, THANK YOU!! 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidK442

Juiced46 said:


> Hopefully the pictures show as I have been having issues linking pics off my Google Photos account.


Not on my screen.


----------



## KevinG

chiltonj said:


> Another thing I noticed is on my directv guide, the advertised channels with white banners used to flicker. I chalked it up to directv.


Aren't these settings only meant to be used for watching HDR content? Am I missing something? (does directv have some hdr content?)


----------



## dholmes54

Where is oledurts settings?


----------



## Juiced46

dholmes54 said:


> Where is oledurts settings?



1 page back


----------



## rmerlano

What do I lose if the HDMI port is not 18Gbps?


----------



## dholmes54

Juiced46 said:


> 1 page back


Thxs


----------



## Boggle

rmerlano said:


> What do I lose if the HDMI port is not 18Gbps?


cant do 4k60p 12 bit color. Can only do 4K24p 12 bit, or 4k60p 8 bit. there is a chart if you search the thread.


----------



## rmerlano

I´ll look for the chart.
What kind of source is 4k60p 12 bit color? Computer only?
Thank you!


----------



## NetViper

rmerlano said:


> I´ll look for the chart.
> What kind of source is 4k60p 12 bit color? Computer only?
> Thank you!


Computer and Xbox One X I think.


----------



## Aardawg

So I understand this projector can take a 4k source and show it in "4K".

But, can it take a regular 1080p source (bluray, amazon video, netflix) and "upscale" it to something with more resolution than 1080p?


----------



## kodt

Aardawg said:


> So I understand this projector can take a 4k source and show it in "4K".
> 
> But, can it take a regular 1080p source (bluray, amazon video, netflix) and "upscale" it to something with more resolution than 1080p?


Yes, it does that with the 4K enhancement feature, it effectively upscales 1080p content to 4K.

Note, it is not a true 4K image, but a pixel shifted 4k image.


----------



## burton14e7

Aardawg said:


> So I understand this projector can take a 4k source and show it in "4K".
> 
> But, can it take a regular 1080p source (bluray, amazon video, netflix) and "upscale" it to something with more resolution than 1080p?


There is an image enhancement setting when the source is 1080p. I couldn't tell the different when I activated it though.


----------



## WynsWrld98

burton14e7 said:


> There is an image enhancement setting when the source is 1080p. I couldn't tell the different when I activated it though.


I saw a demo at Best Buy and had the same reaction so what's the point with 1080p signals?


----------



## kodt

The difference is more noticeable in this video:

https://youtu.be/zir0hJOuIhw?t=477


----------



## dholmes54

After multiple surgeries on my eyes and new glasses I can see now pretty good for a 63 y/o and was wondering with oledurt or harpervision settings which HDR do I start with to do calibration.


----------



## chiltonj

KevinG said:


> Aren't these settings only meant to be used for watching HDR content? Am I missing something? (does directv have some hdr content?)


You are correct per the post via Oledurt. Directv doesn't have HDR content that I'm aware of but the quality of my Directtv image is much much better. More vivid us probably the best explanation I can come up with. Haven't even tried HDR content yet. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## burton14e7

dholmes54 said:


> After multiple surgeries on my eyes and new glasses I can see now pretty good for a 63 y/o and was wondering with oledurt or harpervision settings which HDR do I start with to do calibration.


I believe you do calibration before putting their settings in.


----------



## NetViper

Just went to a home theater store and they quit selling Epson because so many customers are having problems. Making me a little nervous, especially after reading posts on here with units dying.


----------



## jsil

How good is this projector with fast moving action like sports?


----------



## onair125

Any owners with Roku Ultra with their Epson 5040ub?

I noticed some issue when using the Netflix app.
When scrolling thru movies/shows, between 4K Ultra HD and regular HD (vice versa), my Epson 5040ub would lose signal (black screen) for a good 15-30 seconds before it would show the preview. 
Any idea to fix this?

Also, what does the new firmware updates?


----------



## sahil0909

Hey guys, i'm interested in the 5040ub, but after reading the 'known issues' on the first page i'm really concerned, i don't understand much of the tech stuff written there but from what i understand, it has problems playing hdr movies? So here are my questions:
1. will it be able to play EVERY 4k HDR movie i throw at it just as all the native 4k hdr projectors will? With 10 bit as is necessary for hdr and dci p3 or rec 2020 which are the required for hdr?
2.) Will it also be able to 4k hdr games as will be played by all native 4k hdr projectors?

If the answer to these questions are no, then what's the point of this projector? it would be just as good as a normal 1080p projector.
Thanks.


----------



## Juiced46

NetViper said:


> Just went to a home theater store and they quit selling Epson because so many customers are having problems. Making me a little nervous, especially after reading posts on here with units dying.


I have been using Epson projectors for about 7-8 years now and will continue to purchase them, I have had a few issues and they ALWAYS took care of me even when out of warranty. When you read forums, there will always be someone that had an issue. Same with car forums etc...The nice thing with Epson is, they have one of the best warranties in the business. If you have an issue. They overnight you another unit. I had a bulb blow on me @ 900hours, they only give you a 60 or 90 day warranty on the bulb. It was about a year after purchase. I called them up and they still sent me a new bulb, no charge. Cant say the same for other manufacturers where they make you send your unit in and wait weeks to months for a repair. I will continue to buy Epson for this reason. 



sahil0909 said:


> Hey guys, i'm interested in the 5040ub, but after reading the 'known issues' on the first page i'm really concerned, i don't understand much of the tech stuff written there but from what i understand, it has problems playing hdr movies? So here are my questions:
> 1. will it be able to play EVERY 4k HDR movie i throw at it just as all the native 4k hdr projectors will? With 10 bit as is necessary for hdr and dci p3 or rec 2020 which are the required for hdr?
> 2.) Will it also be able to 4k hdr games as will be played by all native 4k hdr projectors?
> 
> If the answer to these questions are no, then what's the point of this projector? it would be just as good as a normal 1080p projector.
> Thanks.


If you play an HDR movie with the out of box settings, its very dark. This is where Harper's and Oledurts settings come into play and it looks amazing. 

The issue I believe that some people have is not the 4K disc content itself, but which player is being used. With my 5040UB using Xbox One S Blu Ray player, I get 4K/24 HDR. I believe wired, the 5040UB will not be able to do 4K/60 12 bit, there is a chart explaining it on the first page. However, with that being said, with 4K24 movies, the picture looks AMAZING. Way better then my 5025 that I just sold.

I just had some friends over for the fight last weekend and they immediately noticed how much better the image looked and we were only watching from an HD cable box, not even 4K material and they could tell instantly. 

As far as HDR gaming. With my Xbox One S, HDR in 4K does not work. You can get a 4K image, just not HDR. The way the Xbox sends the signal is different and the Epson cannot convert it properly from the way I understand it. There are guys getting 1080p HDR with PS4 Pro (HatlessChimp) he has a ton of Youtube videos if you search for them as well. 

I am not sure how the Xbox One X will do with 4K HDR with this projector since nobody is able to test it yet. 

If you are on the fence about projectors, what other projectors are you looking at getting? For the price the Epson is a very good buy. Remember, true Native 4K projectors are alot more $$$.


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> I have been using Epson projectors for about 7-8 years now and will continue to purchase them, I have had a few issues and they ALWAYS took care of me even when out of warranty. When you read forums, there will always be someone that had an issue. Same with car forums etc...The nice thing with Epson is, they have one of the best warranties in the business. If you have an issue. They overnight you another unit. I had a bulb blow on me @ 900hours, they only give you a 60 or 90 day warranty on the bulb. It was about a year after purchase. I called them up and they still sent me a new bulb, no charge. Cant say the same for other manufacturers where they make you send your unit in and wait weeks to months for a repair. I will continue to buy Epson for this reason.
> 
> 
> 
> If you play an HDR movie with the out of box settings, its very dark. This is where Harper's and Oledurts settings come into play and it looks amazing.
> 
> The issue I believe that some people have is not the 4K disc content itself, but which player is being used. With my 5040UB using Xbox One S Blu Ray player, I get 4K/24 HDR. I believe wired, the 5040UB will not be able to do 4K/60 12 bit, there is a chart explaining it on the first page. However, with that being said, with 4K24 movies, the picture looks AMAZING. Way better then my 5025 that I just sold.
> 
> I just had some friends over for the fight last weekend and they immediately noticed how much better the image looked and we were only watching from an HD cable box, not even 4K material and they could tell instantly.
> 
> As far as HDR gaming. With my Xbox One S, HDR in 4K does not work. You can get a 4K image, just not HDR. The way the Xbox sends the signal is different and the Epson cannot convert it properly from the way I understand it. There are guys getting 1080p HDR with PS4 Pro (HatlessChimp) he has a ton of Youtube videos if you search for them as well.
> 
> I am not sure how the Xbox One X will do with 4K HDR with this projector since nobody is able to test it yet.
> 
> If you are on the fence about projectors, what other projectors are you looking at getting? For the price the Epson is a very good buy. Remember, true Native 4K projectors are alot more $$$.


Thanks so much for the reply, i am also looking to use it with the xbox one s for uhd movies, so i'm good to go right? All uhd movies will work with hdr on the xbox? 10/12 bit? 
It's a bummer though to know games won't work with HDR, you'd think epson would try fix that via a firmware. 
Hey could you kindly point me to the settings you said will make HDR would look good, what page are they on?
Lastly, my other projector im considering is the Sony HW45ES. But the reason i'm leaning towards the epson is because i really want to get into 4k HDR, but a few things have me second guessing, such as the questions i've asked you, and also that i've heard people talking about pixel gap on the epson, saying that it's very visible, what do you think?


----------



## ruggercb

The 5040ub throws an incredible image. 4k enhancement on 1080p is great, 4k Netflix blows my mind. I run a pc in ultra widescreen thru an A lens at 3840x1600 which admittedly isn't full fat 4k , but it's the best image I've seen.

I know I don't speak for everyone, but the 5040ub is so good at what it does that I could care less about HDR.

I will admit that I'm less happy that my 4 mo old 5040 failed and the replacement I received yesterday has a wrecked lens, but they are shipping me another one pronto.

I'm back to using my old pj, the benq w1070 and its like I'm watching a dull, fuzzy, washed out picture. It's like going from HD back to SD.

I guess this is a long winded way of saying I'm willing to put up with the crap to get back the Epson. It's amazing to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

TheBrandon said:


> Played around with my buddies 5040 today and congrats to all owners. Very impressed. We tried about everything. 4k through Phillips, PS4 with enhancements and with out, multiple resolutions on PC games like Crisis in 4k. I think the HDR is a major let down but without this it has a stunning picture. I game on a Sony 40ES and while the input lag is definitely lower, the 5040 is fine. I mainly play shooters requiring fast twitch. We tested BF1. My goodness the textures on the ground with the 4k enhancements. For those excited about the Neo's sweet spot being 1440p upscaled to 4k we tested Crisis at 1440p and it was fantastic (tested at 4k as well). Input lag was a non issue. I realize I am not an owner (yet, we'll see after Cedia) I did want to congratulate everyone on their amazing device. I've auditioned other e-shift using projectors I won't go into since this thread was primarily created due to too much talking about other units but I did want to add this is a great device compared to those. Last thing, my gosh this projector is HUGE!


Wow i realise this is a post you made LONG back, but i really need your opinion on something, seeing as you have played around with the epson 5040ub, and you owned the sony hw40es, which is almost identical to the hw45es which i was considering alongside the epson, can you please let me know the difference you saw between the 4k hdr projector epson 5040ub and the 1080p sony hw40es, i'm really confused between these two. Thanks


----------



## sahil0909

ruggercb said:


> The 5040ub throws an incredible image. 4k enhancement on 1080p is great, 4k Netflix blows my mind. I run a pc in ultra widescreen thru an A lens at 3840x1600 which admittedly isn't full fat 4k , but it's the best image I've seen.
> 
> I know I don't speak for everyone, but the 5040ub is so good at what it does that I could care less about HDR.
> 
> I will admit that I'm less happy that my 4 mo old 5040 failed and the replacement I received yesterday has a wrecked lens, but they are shipping me another one pronto.
> 
> I'm back to using my old pj, the benq w1070 and its like I'm watching a dull, fuzzy, washed out picture. It's like going from HD back to SD.
> 
> I guess this is a long winded way of saying I'm willing to put up with the crap to get back the Epson. It's amazing to me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's a really encouraging post, how do you think the 1080p image compares to other full hd projectors? And also, have you noticed alot of screen door effect? I've heard many say it suffers from the most pixel gap and that would kill the experience?


----------



## ruggercb

sahil0909 said:


> That's a really encouraging post, how do you think the 1080p image compares to other full hd projectors? And also, have you noticed alot of screen door effect? I've heard many say it suffers from the most pixel gap and that would kill the experience?




I'm no expert, and the 5040 is in a different price range than the 1080p projectors I've owned, the benq and also the optoma hd20, but there's no comparison to me.

SDE from 13 ft back on my 125" screen is nonexistent. I really only run in 4k enhancement mode, so it's more like checkerboard rendering when you get close, like 3 feet- sort of like an overlap, little triangular edges. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

ruggercb said:


> I'm no expert, and the 5040 is in a different price range than the 1080p projectors I've owned, the benq and also the optoma hd20, but there's no comparison to me.
> 
> SDE from 13 ft back on my 125" screen is nonexistent. I really only run in 4k enhancement mode, so it's more like checkerboard rendering when you get close, like 3 feet- sort of like an overlap, little triangular edges.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What about if you moved to about 10 feet? Since i'm planning to watch a 100 inch screen from about 8-9 feet.
Secondly, i've also heard that while using the 4k enhancement the pixel gap (screen -door effect) is minimised, but i though that should only be used for 4k content? Do you also use it for 1080p content? Doesn't it make the picture worse?


----------



## ruggercb

sahil0909 said:


> What about if you moved to about 10 feet? Since i'm planning to watch a 100 inch screen from about 8-9 feet.
> 
> Secondly, i've also heard that while using the 4k enhancement the pixel gap (screen -door effect) is minimised, but i though that should only be used for 4k content? Do you also use it for 1080p content? Doesn't it make the picture worse?




When I get the 5040 back I'll try and take some pictures of a movie and give you a comparison. I watched Indiana Jones and the last crusade the other night and switched between 4K enhancement off and on and the level of detail was very noticeable in Harrison Ford's face like his beard stubble. 

I don't know if you've ever seen the Darby vision stuff but it's kind of like that except more refined.

From 10 ft I wouldn't think SDE would be too noticeable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

ruggercb said:


> When I get the 5040 back I'll try and take some pictures of a movie and give you a comparison. I watched Indiana Jones and the last crusade the other night and switched between 4K enhancement off and on and the level of detail was very noticeable in Harrison Ford's face like his beard stubble.
> 
> I don't know if you've ever seen the Darby vision stuff but it's kind of like that except more refined.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Awesome thank so much man, looking forward to any pics you can share.


----------



## TheBrandon

sahil0909 said:


> Wow i realise this is a post you made LONG back, but i really need your opinion on something, seeing as you have played around with the epson 5040ub, and you owned the sony hw40es, which is almost identical to the hw45es which i was considering alongside the epson, can you please let me know the difference you saw between the 4k hdr projector epson 5040ub and the 1080p sony hw40es, i'm really confused between these two. Thanks


Do you play games? TV? Light controlled environment?


----------



## Juiced46

sahil0909 said:


> Thanks so much for the reply, i am also looking to use it with the xbox one s for uhd movies, so i'm good to go right? All uhd movies will work with hdr on the xbox? 10/12 bit?
> It's a bummer though to know games won't work with HDR, you'd think epson would try fix that via a firmware.
> Hey could you kindly point me to the settings you said will make HDR would look good, what page are they on?
> Lastly, my other projector im considering is the Sony HW45ES. But the reason i'm leaning towards the epson is because i really want to get into 4k HDR, but a few things have me second guessing, such as the questions i've asked you, and also that i've heard people talking about pixel gap on the epson, saying that it's very visible, what do you think?


Yes, all UHD movies will work in 4K HDR on the Xbox One S. It does 4K24 12bit HDR and looks incredible. I have also tested it with Amazon UHD streaming movies and it looks amazing. 

As far as HDR gaming, its a bummer that it does not work on the Xbox One S, however I can tell you this, it still looks incredible and I have zero complaints. Coming from the 5025 which is comparable to the Sony you are looking at,, it looks way better, even with 1080p sources. 4K enhancement with gaming looks amazing. Like mentioned, BF1, Forza, COD, Madden all look fantastic. 

The firmware thing, I am not too sure. The chip in the Projector is 18gbps capable but for some reason they limit the port to 10gbps, I am no engineer, so I have no logical reason as to why they would do it. 

Search user name "Oledurt" in this thread for his HDR settings, it is either 1 or 2 pages back. Search "Dave Harper" for his settings which are hyperlinked in his signature. 

I would go with the Epson over the Sony. A quick search shows the Epson is $500 more then the Sony (if buying from an Authorized retailer) Spending the extra $500 will be well worth it. Plus if you plan on getting an Xbox One X, even though we do not know how this projector will handle all of the HDR stuff with that system, it is native 4K and it will blow away the Sony for sure. Just by seeing how it looks on the One S, that $500 spent will be worth it alone. 

As far as Pixel shift and SDE, I see nothing. I sit 12 feet with a 100" screen with a 10ft throw distance. The ONLY way I can see it is if I stand directly in front of the screen. Which you should not be viewing from that close ever. If people are complaining about being able to see pixel shift when they smash their face against the screen, they have nothing to complain about. I think you are being just a bit paranoid about that. Trust me, when viewing from 10feet + back, you will be amazed.


----------



## Juiced46

Here are some cell phone pictures I tried taking with 4K UHD videos off Amazon through the Xbox One S. This is using Oledurts settings tweaked for my room. My cell phone slightly tweaked the colors. These pictures do not do this projector justice.


----------



## sahil0909

TheBrandon said:


> Do you play games? TV? Light controlled environment?


I can control the light pretty well, not bat cave dark but i have HEAVY curtains which remove most of the ambient light during the day and at night i'll shut of all the lights so it will be pretty dark. Yes i play games on xbox one s but not too fussy about input lag. My main viewing is movies though, and alot of tv shows. Not really cable


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> Yes, all UHD movies will work in 4K HDR on the Xbox One S. It does 4K24 12bit HDR and looks incredible. I have also tested it with Amazon UHD streaming movies and it looks amazing.
> 
> As far as HDR gaming, its a bummer that it does not work on the Xbox One S, however I can tell you this, it still looks incredible and I have zero complaints. Coming from the 5025 which is comparable to the Sony you are looking at,, it looks way better, even with 1080p sources. 4K enhancement with gaming looks amazing. Like mentioned, BF1, Forza, COD, Madden all look fantastic.
> 
> The firmware thing, I am not too sure. The chip in the Projector is 18gbps capable but for some reason they limit the port to 10gbps, I am no engineer, so I have no logical reason as to why they would do it.
> 
> Search user name "Oledurt" in this thread for his HDR settings, it is either 1 or 2 pages back. Search "Dave Harper" for his settings which are hyperlinked in his signature.
> 
> I would go with the Epson over the Sony. A quick search shows the Epson is $500 more then the Sony (if buying from an Authorized retailer) Spending the extra $500 will be well worth it. Plus if you plan on getting an Xbox One X, even though we do not know how this projector will handle all of the HDR stuff with that system, it is native 4K and it will blow away the Sony for sure. Just by seeing how it looks on the One S, that $500 spent will be worth it alone.
> 
> As far as Pixel shift and SDE, I see nothing. I sit 12 feet with a 100" screen with a 10ft throw distance. The ONLY way I can see it is if I stand directly in front of the screen. Which you should not be viewing from that close ever. If people are complaining about being able to see pixel shift when they smash their face against the screen, they have nothing to complain about. I think you are being just a bit paranoid about that. Trust me, when viewing from 10feet + back, you will be amazed.


Wow i can't begin to thank you enough for helping remove any final doubts i had about this projector, i highly appreciate all the time you took to answer each of my questions. And this pics are beyond awesome!! If these pics don't do the projector justice i can't imagine how good it will look in person. Just to confirm something, could you kindly send me a pic of the xbox one s page where it shows all the ticks on what resolutions the tv/projector supports? I actually saw a pic of one owner near the beginning of the thread on page 6 where the xbox only ticked about 3 areas, and it said the projector doesn't even support 4k 10bit at 24 Hz, wouldn't that be essential for HDR? Since movies are 24Hz, i get that it says that the projector doesn't support 4k 10bit at 60Hz because you explained that to me, but how comes it says that it doesn't support that at 24Hz? Thanks again buddy, and sorry for all the questions


----------



## TheBrandon

sahil0909 said:


> I can control the light pretty well, not bat cave dark but i have HEAVY curtains which remove most of the ambient light during the day and at night i'll shut of all the lights so it will be pretty dark. Yes i play games on xbox one s but not too fussy about input lag. My main viewing is movies though, and alot of tv shows. Not really cable


Motion is better with Sony. Movies (UHD)I'd go Epson for eshift. Games hands down Sony as well as TV. HDR was way too dim and brightness made expanded color space worthless back when we tested (heard firmware has resolved issues as well as work arounds). Another thing was with the 5040 it felt like you had to adjust your settings based on what you were watching. Sony was set and forget and everything was awesome. If I was in your shoes right now I'd go to classifieds and see what type of deals you can get, buy a bulb and be perfectly happy for a few years until native 4k drops and maybe we gets lucky and programming gets 4k (unlikely). This is exactly what I did and now ready for native 4k (gaming). Good gosh I have mine listed for $900 and its still under warranty. In two years native 4k should be more reasonable and you've got a thousand you saved towards a native 4k unit. If looking for new, I'd take a hard pass on both and move straight to the JVC RS420. These should drop in price very soon with the announcement of the new models. The thing about both the 5040 and 40/45ES is that nothing new is going to blow them away until you get into the big dollar stuff. I preferred the colors of the Epson and my buddy much preferred the the Sony (funny it was opposite for what we owned). 

Epson got me on the HDMI though, major no go with the bandwidth limitations. My time spent on my projector is mostly gaming, its ISF calibrated and has excellent input lag. This hurts my wallet a ton because just getting something that compares is going to set me back most likely 3 times (depending on input lag) for a similar picture but in 4k. I do watch movies once a week or so and the occasional tv series. GOT was awesome! Oh and College Basketball. Love the motion again on the Sony. This is a tough choice no doubt about it.

Edit to break up wall of text and apologize for typos!


----------



## sahil0909

TheBrandon said:


> Motion is better with Sony. Movies (UHD)I'd go Epson for eshift. Games hands down Sony as well as TV. HDR was way too dim and brightness made expanded color space worthless back when we tested (heard firmware has resolved issues as well as work arounds). Another thing was with the 5040 it felt like you had to adjust your settings based on what you were watching. Sony was set and forget and everything was awesome. If I was in your shoes right now I'd go to classifieds and see what type of deals you can get, buy a bulb and be perfectly happy for a few years until native 4k drops and maybe we gets lucky and programming gets 4k (unlikely). This is exactly what I did and now ready for native 4k (gaming). Good gosh I have mine listed for $900 and its still under warranty. In two years native 4k should be more reasonable and you've got a thousand you saved towards a native 4k unit. If looking for new, I'd take a hard pass on both and move straight to the JVC RS420. These should drop in price very soon with the announcement of the new models. The thing about both the 5040 and 40/45ES is that nothing new is going to blow them away until you get into the big dollar stuff. I preferred the colors of the Epson and my buddy much preferred the the Sony (funny it was opposite for what we owned).
> 
> Epson got me on the HDMI though, major no go with the bandwidth limitations. My time spent on my projector is mostly gaming, its ISF calibrated and has excellent input lag. This hurts my wallet a ton because just getting something that compares is going to set me back most likely 3 times (depending on input lag) for a similar picture but in 4k. I do watch movies once a week or so and the occasional tv series. GOT was awesome! Oh and College Basketball. Love the motion again on the Sony. This is a tough choice no doubt about it.
> 
> Edit to break up wall of text and apologize for typos!


Hahah don't make me bring in other choices again buddy 
How much is the RS420 going for though? And is it 4k? And what projector do you currently own?


----------



## carp

sahil0909 said:


> What about if you moved to about 10 feet? Since i'm planning to watch a 100 inch screen from about 8-9 feet.
> Secondly, i've also heard that while using the 4k enhancement the pixel gap (screen -door effect) is minimised, but i though that should only be used for 4k content? Do you also use it for 1080p content? Doesn't it make the picture worse?


You will have absolutely no problems with a screen that size from distance. I sit with my eyes 10 feet from a 158" 2:35:1 screen and there is NO screen door effect at all. If you turn off the 4K enhancement then I can see SDE, but it's all gone with 4k enhancement on. 

With 4K content the 4k enhancement is greyed out because it's not needed since the incoming is already 4k.


----------



## carp

burton14e7 said:


> There is an image enhancement setting when the source is 1080p. I couldn't tell the different when I activated it though.


Do you sit far away or have a smaller screen? Using the 4K enhancement makes a big difference for me, as I said in my last post you can see the screen door effect with the enhancement off but when you turn it on the SDE is completely gone. Big difference for me.


----------



## TheBrandon

sahil0909 said:


> Hahah don't make me bring in other choices again buddy
> How much is the RS420 going for though? And is it 4k? And what projector do you currently own?


Right this second the very 40ES I have listed. Nothing has hit to warrant changing. Next week Ill be deciding between JVC's newest line and Sony's. As this moment Sony's new 360ES is in the lead, just need US price and date. Hoping we get an idea of input lag at CEDIA. I dont think we are supposed to discuss price but JVC should be around $3000 and yes, worth it. I've seen two instances of the 6040 vs RS400 and RS420 (BB Equivilant) and its a beat down to my eyes with an easily justifiable price difference. (To me, this takes nothing away from the Epson looking great.)


----------



## burton14e7

carp said:


> Do you sit far away or have a smaller screen? Using the 4K enhancement makes a big difference for me, as I said in my last post you can see the screen door effect with the enhancement off but when you turn it on the SDE is completely gone. Big difference for me.


I guess it's situational which is fine, it's good that it does something for some people even though not at all people. I sit about 11 feet away from a 135" screen.


----------



## carp

burton14e7 said:


> I guess it's situational which is fine, it's good that it does something for some people even though not at all people. I sit about 11 feet away from a 135" screen.


Hmm I wonder what's up with that because your screen and sitting distance isn't that much different than mine... 

I have heard that some people don't notice SDE effect nearly as much as others so maybe that's what's going on?


----------



## sahil0909

carp said:


> You will have absolutely no problems with a screen that size from distance. I sit with my eyes 10 feet from a 158" 2:35:1 screen and there is NO screen door effect at all. If you turn off the 4K enhancement then I can see SDE, but it's all gone with 4k enhancement on.
> 
> With 4K content the 4k enhancement is greyed out because it's not needed since the incoming is already 4k.


Thanks for that much needed info, now that i know you can watch such a big screen from 10 feet my concerns have been removed.
Ohh now i get it, so that 4k enhancement feature isn't for 4k content? Meaning 4k content will automatically be played with the 4k enhancements right? So in that case, should i switch on the 4k enhancements for all other content including 1080p, 720p e.t.c?


----------



## sahil0909

TheBrandon said:


> Right this second the very 40ES I have listed. Nothing has hit to warrant changing. Next week Ill be deciding between JVC's newest line and Sony's. As this moment Sony's new 360ES is in the lead, just need US price and date. Hoping we get an idea of input lag at CEDIA. I dont think we are supposed to discuss price but JVC should be around $3000 and yes, worth it. I've seen two instances of the 6040 vs RS400 and RS420 (BB Equivilant) and its a beat down to my eyes with an easily justifiable price difference. (To me, this takes nothing away from the Epson looking great.)


So what exactly does the RS400/420 offer that the epson doesn't?


----------



## TheBrandon

sahil0909 said:


> So what exactly does the RS400/420 offer that the epson doesn't?


Blacks are on another level as well as contrast. I mean on another level literally. Color accuracy is much better with HDR and WCG (you'll keep brightness), HDMI speed, optics are all around better. Eshift is much better as well. If you've got a Magnolia store close to you check them out. Neither are perfect but few would choose the Epson over the JVC. Some will though. 😁


----------



## sahil0909

TheBrandon said:


> Blacks are on another level as well as contrast. I mean on another level literally. Color accuracy is much better with HDR and WCG (you'll keep brightness), HDMI speed, optics are all around better. Eshift is much better as well. If you've got a Magnolia store close to you check them out. Neither are perfect but few would choose the Epson over the JVC. Some will though. 😁


Honestly i think i'll just stick with the epson, because for one thing, even though the jvc has better blacks i won't really benefit since i don't exactly have a bat cave, and the walls and ceiling are also light colored so i can't justify the huge bump up in price. For the price i think the epson i just right for me


----------



## carp

sahil0909 said:


> Thanks for that much needed info, now that i know you can watch such a big screen from 10 feet my concerns have been removed.
> Ohh now i get it, so that 4k enhancement feature isn't for 4k content? Meaning 4k content will automatically be played with the 4k enhancements right? So in that case, should i switch on the 4k enhancements for all other content including 1080p, 720p e.t.c?


Yep, exactly. 

Keep in mind preferences on screen size/distance can vary from person to person. Most people I have had over prefer the front row, but some feel a bit overwhelmed and like the back row (17 feet away) better.


----------



## sahil0909

carp said:


> Yep, exactly.
> 
> Keep in mind preferences on screen size/distance can vary from person to person. Most people I have had over prefer the front row, but some feel a bit overwhelmed and like the back row (17 feet away) better.


Yes i understand, i actually prefer sitting a little closer so that should be okay for me! One of my biggest concerns is now gone, now only one thing left which is confirming about 4k hdr at 24 Hz (movies) on xbox one s, an earlier post from an owner showed a pic of xbox one s video resolutions menu showing that it didn't support it and that's what im concerned with


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

The beast (5040ub) has arrived - finally. Its mounted (Epson's low profile ceiling mount) tested and works flawlessly. So far watched Martian 4k checked out Avatar 3d palyed a bit on ps4 pro. Did firmware update. I shouldn't have waited so long with upgrading my old DLP pj. Difference is night and day. Tomorrow will check Oledurt's settings


----------



## sahil0909

MartyMcFlyy said:


> The beast (5040ub) has arrived - finally. Its mounted (Epson's low profile ceiling mount) tested and works flawlessly. So far watched Martian 4k checked out Avatar 3d palyed a bit on ps4 pro. Did firmware update. I shouldn't have waited so long with upgrading my old DLP pj. Difference is night and day. Tomorrow will check Oledurt's settings


wow congrats man!! i'm stoked for you, enjoy !


----------



## TheBrandon

sahil0909 said:


> Honestly i think i'll just stick with the epson, because for one thing, even though the jvc has better blacks i won't really benefit since i don't exactly have a bat cave, and the walls and ceiling are also light colored so i can't justify the huge bump up in price. For the price i think the epson i just right for me


The blacks are significant even with ambient light. Contrast is significant even with ambient light and yes if you see these yourself it's undeniable and apparent. Picture preference is subjective though of course. Can't go wrong all around though. Definitely all great devices.


----------



## sahil0909

TheBrandon said:


> The blacks are significant even with ambient light. Contrast is significant even with ambient light and yes if you see these yourself it's undeniable and apparent. Picture preference is subjective though of course. Can't go wrong all around though. Definitely all great devices.


From the review i read on projectorreviews it states that while the blacks are better it isn't exactly a night and day difference, and many people on the forums also state as well as reviewers, that unless you have a pitch dark room, you won't really notice the difference in blacks going from great black levels to even better. And considering i was satisfied with sony hw45es blacks i think i'll be more than happy hopefully with the epson blacks. Plus i'm looking for the best performance at the best price, and i think the epson offers more value for me. Thanks for the suggestion though, the JVC might have entered my consideration had it been around the same price as the epson but since it is 3,400$ on amazon, i'm not really going to consider it. I'm satisfied with the epson, thanks for you help though man


----------



## TheBrandon

sahil0909 said:


> From the review i read on projectorreviews it states that while the blacks are better it isn't exactly a night and day difference, and many people on the forums also state as well as reviewers, that unless you have a pitch dark room, you won't really notice the difference in blacks going from great black levels to even better. And considering i was satisfied with sony hw45es blacks i think i'll be more than happy hopefully with the epson blacks. Plus i'm looking for the best performance at the best price, and i think the epson offers more value for me. Thanks for the suggestion though, the JVC might have entered my consideration had it been around the same price as the epson but since it is 3,400$ on amazon, i'm not really going to consider it. I'm satisfied with the epson, thanks for you help though man


Go check them both out. Easy enough to decide for yourself. My understanding is every Magnolia has them setup. Best of luck and enjoy!! It also may be worth reaching out to Mike or Craig or really any other of the AVS team for pricing.


----------



## sahil0909

TheBrandon said:


> Go check them both out. Easy enough to decide for yourself. My understanding is every Magnolia has them setup. Best of luck and enjoy!! It also may be worth reaching out to Mike or Craig or really any other of the AVS team for pricing.


Thanks for the advice!


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

I have a question perhaps someone can give me a hint.

When I play FullHD Blu rays on my Panny UB700 (HDMI format/signal settings Auto) it recognizes normal full HD movie as 4K/24 and Epson displays in the info like if it's 4K (enhancement is greyed out).
When I select manually 1080p on Panasonic for FUHD sources, then it works normally but I prefer not to select each time on my player what source I play...

Any thoughts why it is not detecting automatically the source ? .

Thanks


----------



## seplant

MartyMcFlyy said:


> I have a question perhaps someone can give me a hint.
> 
> When I play FullHD Blu rays on my Panny UB700 (HDMI format/signal settings Auto) it recognizes normal full HD movie as 4K/24 and Epson displays in the info like if it's 4K (enhancement is greyed out).
> When I select manually 1080p on Panasonic for FUHD sources, then it works normally but I prefer not to select each time on my player what source I play...
> 
> Any thoughts why it is not detecting automatically the source ? .
> 
> Thanks


The UB700 always outputs 4K unless you manually set it to 1080p. There's nothing wrong with the projector. It sees the 4K signal that the UB700 is sending it, but it is actually upscaled 1080p. Some say they prefer to let the projector do the upscaling, but I can't really tell a difference, so I just keep the UB700 on auto and let it do the upscaling.


----------



## Tristan944

Hi guys. Just had my 6040ub installed. When I inserted my first Blu-ray, Goonies (what better movie to break in the projector?), I noticed the projector was set to what looked like 120hz. It had the "soap opera" effect look. I looked in all the settings and I couldn't find a way to speed what refresh rate it was running, what quality (1080p, 720p, etc). I looked everywhere. I ended up pushing some User button on the bottom left of the controller and that actually switched it into the normal 60hz "look" that I'm used to.

Has anyone else had this soap opera effect setting? Anyone have more information on how to see what video settings are being used and how to change them?


----------



## edoggrc51

Quick question fellas as I just want to make sure im not missing something simple. My 2 week old 5040UBE won’t turn on. Using the remote or the button on the PJ does nothing. I’ve tried a few different power cords and outlets but no go. The projector is pretty much DONE-ZO right??


----------



## Oledurt

TheBrandon said:


> Blacks are on another level as well as contrast. I mean on another level literally. Color accuracy is much better with HDR and WCG (you'll keep brightness), HDMI speed, optics are all around better. Eshift is much better as well. If you've got a Magnolia store close to you check them out. Neither are perfect but few would choose the Epson over the JVC. Some will though.




Well...i'll put my calibrated epson up against the JVC. My calibrator sells JVC's, and was quite impressed with what the Epson can do.

Also keep in mind the JVC's are twice the price of the Epson. How much of a tangible picture improvement will you get over a calibrated Epson, and is it worth 2500 bucks more than you paid for the Epson.

To me the answer is no. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rmerlano

MartyMcFlyy said:


> The beast (5040ub) has arrived - finally. Its mounted (Epson's low profile ceiling mount) tested and works flawlessly. So far watched Martian 4k checked out Avatar 3d palyed a bit on ps4 pro. Did firmware update. I shouldn't have waited so long with upgrading my old DLP pj. Difference is night and day. Tomorrow will check Oledurt's settings


Which one projector did you have before?


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Optoma hd28dse with darbee


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Oledurt said:


> Well...i'll put my calibrated epson up against the JVC. My calibrator sells JVC's, and was quite impressed with what the Epson can do.
> 
> Also keep in mind the JVC's are twice the price of the Epson. How much of a tangible picture improvement will you get over a calibrated Epson, and is it worth 2500 bucks more than you paid for the Epson.
> 
> To me the answer is no.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I agree. I spent last year on research. I had a chance to compare RS420 and 5040 in one dedicated theatre room and spent full day on testing various sources SDR/4KHDR/3D and playing with the settings. After that tests I didn't find justification to pay more to get RS420 (I was prepared to don't get me wrong). Maybe I am strange but I even liked 5040 more. After what I ve seen I can say these two are comparable. In some scenes 420 was bit better in others 5040ub. In most they were comparable and blacks / contrast difference was not that noticable as I thought it would be to the eye and to convince me to buy JVC over 5040. Until I saw them I was thinking I would buy JVC as everyone told me it would outperform Epson. Both are great choices but IMHO 5040 wins in terms of what it can offer for its price.


----------



## TheBrandon

Oledurt said:


> Well...i'll put my calibrated epson up against the JVC. My calibrator sells JVC's, and was quite impressed with what the Epson can do.
> 
> Also keep in mind the JVC's are twice the price of the Epson. How much of a tangible picture improvement will you get over a calibrated Epson, and is it worth 2500 bucks more than you paid for the Epson.
> 
> To me the answer is no.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


The 5040 is no slacker by any stretch of the imagination. The RS420 can be had around 3 and if the RS400 pricing is any indicator of what the 420 model may be clearanced at with the new models just announced it could be under 3k. Worth the difference in contrast, blacks, better eshift, better optics all the way through, better gaming. I'm not here saying the Epson is terrible because its awesome. The main thing I subjectively see is features people are buying this for are not implemented with the maturity JVC has and of course they are features people want or they'd be grabbing cheaper DLPs am I right? For example, eshift and sharpness enhancer. Cool except you're adding artifacts. Hitting an expanded color range, cool except you have 25% light loss!! Have you seen the RS420 yourself and compared these? Its better out of the box period with picture quality and they do a wonderful job with the new color space addition and keeping brightness intact as well as the eshift which they started! Lets be honest, even being compared to the JVC which are really known for being the king of projectors for most in overall imagine quality is awesome. The post I was oringally quoted on was how happy I am and how wonderful the Epsons are. I'm being real here with no motivation at all or biased. Just raw hands on and impressions through my eyes. If folks are happy with their Epsons, heck yea I'm super happy for them. They are awesome. The subjective part is how do people like their image? Do you prefer the look of LCD, SXRD, DLP, DILA? Specs seem to matter less when you just prefer the overall picture of a specific tech. Some love and hate DLP for this reason. I love SXRD though I pray for motion resolution like DLP. Seems most prefer deep blacks of DILA and them being hands down the Contrast beast. These are all awesome tech.


----------



## ht guy

*5040 6040 AVS User Settings Summary - UPDATED!*

Here is the link.
enjoy...


----------



## ht guy

ht guy said:


> Here is the link.
> enjoy...


...and it can't be said enough, THANK YOU oledurt, Dave Harper and every other user who has contributed to this forum!


----------



## Oledurt

TheBrandon said:


> The 5040 is no slacker by any stretch of the imagination. The RS420 can be had around 3 and if the RS400 pricing is any indicator of what the 420 model may be clearanced at with the new models just announced it could be under 3k. Worth the difference in contrast, blacks, better eshift, better optics all the way through, better gaming. I'm not here saying the Epson is terrible because its awesome. The main thing I subjectively see is features people are buying this for are not implemented with the maturity JVC has and of course they are features people want or they'd be grabbing cheaper DLPs am I right? For example, eshift and sharpness enhancer. Cool except you're adding artifacts. Hitting an expanded color range, cool except you have 25% light loss!! Have you seen the RS420 yourself and compared these? Its better out of the box period with picture quality and they do a wonderful job with the new color space addition and keeping brightness intact as well as the eshift which they started! Lets be honest, even being compared to the JVC which are really known for being the king of projectors for most in overall imagine quality is awesome. The post I was oringally quoted on was how happy I am and how wonderful the Epsons are. I'm being real here with no motivation at all or biased. Just raw hands on and impressions through my eyes. If folks are happy with their Epsons, heck yea I'm super happy for them. They are awesome. The subjective part is how do people like their image? Do you prefer the look of LCD, SXRD, DLP, DILA? Specs seem to matter less when you just prefer the overall picture of a specific tech. Some love and hate DLP for this reason. I love SXRD though I pray for motion resolution like DLP. Seems most prefer deep blacks of DILA and them being hands down the Contrast beast. These are all awesome tech.




Ok...isn't there a JVC forum around here somewhere?  


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## TheBrandon

Oledurt said:


> Ok...isn't there a JVC forum around here somewhere?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


This is AVS. Audio video science. Most of us here are looking for the best on paper results which ties into the science. I was asked what I thought and as unbiased as possible posted my thoughts having spent considerable time with the 5040, and 40ES/45ES and enough with the RS400 and 420 to be completely fair. If you don't like it take a hike. You dont get to dictate this being an Epson circle jerk thread. These question pop up in solo threads constantly. Nothing is more annoying then someone closed minded due to fanboy bias or trying to justify their purchase. Ive already mentioned multi times my impressions of the 5040. I don't make any purchases based on brand alone. Neither should anyone else especially here where there are so many unbiased resources. Check them out in person and see what best fits the needs. All are great projectors. Some better than others and the science is behind this.


----------



## Oledurt

TheBrandon said:


> This is AVS. Audio video science. Most of us here are looking for the best on paper results which ties into the science. I was asked what I thought and as unbiased as possible posted my thoughts having spent considerable time with the 5040, and 40ES/45ES and enough with the RS400 and 420 to be completely fair. If you don't like it take a hike. You dont get to dictate this being an Epson circle jerk thread. These question pop up in solo threads constantly. Nothing is more annoying then someone closed minded due to fanboy bias or trying to justify their purchase. Ive already mentioned multi times my impressions of the 5040. I don't make any purchases based on brand alone. Neither should anyone else especially here where there are so many unbiased resources. Check them out in person and see what best fits the needs. All are great projectors. Some better than others and the science is behind this.







Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

TheBrandon said:


> This is AVS. Audio video science. Most of us here are looking for the best on paper results which ties into the science. I was asked what I thought and as unbiased as possible posted my thoughts having spent considerable time with the 5040, and 40ES/45ES and enough with the RS400 and 420 to be completely fair. If you don't like it take a hike. You dont get to dictate this being an Epson circle jerk thread. These question pop up in solo threads constantly. Nothing is more annoying then someone closed minded due to fanboy bias or trying to justify their purchase. Ive already mentioned multi times my impressions of the 5040. I don't make any purchases based on brand alone. Neither should anyone else especially here where there are so many unbiased resources. Check them out in person and see what best fits the needs. All are great projectors. Some better than others and the science is behind this.


C'mon man, I am pretty sure Oledurt's comment was just a joke, hence the emoji. Sometimes its hard to read into someone joking on a forum. Let's not derail this thread into a pissing match.


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> Here are some cell phone pictures I tried taking with 4K UHD videos off Amazon through the Xbox One S. This is using Oledurts settings tweaked for my room. My cell phone slightly tweaked the colors. These pictures do not do this projector justice.


Is the way to make HDR work for movies on xbox one s by going into settings, display and sound, video output, advanced video settings,and selecting ''Allow YCC 4:2:2''? Is that the way to get the tick in the box for 4k 10 bit at 24hz on the xbox?


----------



## Juiced46

sahil0909 said:


> Wow i can't begin to thank you enough for helping remove any final doubts i had about this projector, i highly appreciate all the time you took to answer each of my questions. And this pics are beyond awesome!! If these pics don't do the projector justice i can't imagine how good it will look in person. Just to confirm something, could you kindly send me a pic of the xbox one s page where it shows all the ticks on what resolutions the tv/projector supports? I actually saw a pic of one owner near the beginning of the thread on page 6 where the xbox only ticked about 3 areas, and it said the projector doesn't even support 4k 10bit at 24 Hz, wouldn't that be essential for HDR? Since movies are 24Hz, i get that it says that the projector doesn't support 4k 10bit at 60Hz because you explained that to me, but how comes it says that it doesn't support that at 24Hz? Thanks again buddy, and sorry for all the questions


Not a problem. I had gone out for the rest of the day yesterday so did not get a chance. Here are some pictures as requested. 

Here is the Xbox One S video details screen.










Xbox One S during Gaming showing 4K/60 8 Bit. 










Amazon App through Xbox One S in 4K/24 12 Bit HDR


----------



## Juiced46

sahil0909 said:


> Is the way to make HDR work for movies on xbox one s by going into settings, display and sound, video output, advanced video settings,and selecting ''Allow YCC 4:2:2''? Is that the way to get the tick in the box for 4k 10 bit at 24hz on the xbox?


Yes.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

I ve seen rs400 rs500, w11000, 4k native from sony in action played with rs420 and 5040 both calibrated and not and i am sticking to my story  5040 and rs420 are comparable. Also read whole owners threads and every single review and confroted this with real life examples. JVC is great but has its flaws same does Epson. I ve chosen Epson but other folks may pick up JVC and they will be super happy  I didn't find eshift superior - there are some articles saying more sharp is 4k enhancement while eshift is more soft. All these is subjective of course.


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> Not a problem. I had gone out for the rest of the day yesterday so did not get a chance. Here are some pictures as requested.
> 
> Here is the Xbox One S video details screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Xbox One S during Gaming showing 4K/60 8 Bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon App through Xbox One S in 4K/24 12 Bit HDR


And that's the last of my questions answered. thank again for everything man, you've really beared with me. I really appreciate it. Now i know how to get the 4K HDR movies working. Just waiting to get the cash in my hand anytime now hopefully and then i can make the order!!


----------



## Juiced46

sahil0909 said:


> And that's the last of my questions answered. thank again for everything man, you've really beared with me. I really appreciate it. Now i know how to get the 4K HDR movies working. Just waiting to get the cash in my hand anytime now hopefully and then i can make the order!!


Not a problem, glad I could help. These forums have helped me tremendously, its nice to return the favor. Looks like the sale on the Epson ends on the 9th. It goes on sale from time to time, but hopefully you can catch it on the sale price. 

Also, when I first got my 5040, when watching Amazon Prime movies, I was not getting HDR and getting really frustrated. I was watching Grand Tour and Lemans which was shot in 4K. Well I was just manually searching for the videos and started watching and it was not in HDR. Well stupid me did not realize that you have to scroll through the menus to the 4K UHD section in Amazon, then it worked, just a little FYI!


----------



## TheBrandon

Juiced46 said:


> C'mon man, I am pretty sure Oledurt's comment was just a joke, hence the emoji. Sometimes its hard to read into someone joking on a forum. Let's not derail this thread into a pissing match.


I'm glad you're pretty sure but his stand off comments regarding putting his calibrated 5040 against a JVC set the tone. Additionally he is flat out wrong on pricing but I respect his opinion on if he thinks even a $500 difference is worth it. To each their own. 

Respectfully, I am in the 5k-10k market so I am done here but again I think I've been fair based on looking at these at inception though not having seen firmware updates or any of the tweaks that have been made as I don't frequent these threads. As I have mentioned the 5040 throws a beautiful image as well as the others. No one loses with a 5040, unless you're a gamer and want 60hz with all the bells and whistles of course. This is really its only major flaw in my eyes. You won't see me parading any projector though as they all leave room for improvements even in the 100k range. To my eyes some are better than others based on needs and their respective price range. Every projector I've mention is in the same price range, down or up. 

Best of luck all, enjoy the 5040/6040!! 

Edit: If anyone has any questions or would like some more detail on my opinions or has info that proves anything I have said is incorrect please feel free to PM me and I am happy to help however I can and of course listen.


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> Not a problem, glad I could help. These forums have helped me tremendously, its nice to return the favor. Looks like the sale on the Epson ends on the 9th. It goes on sale from time to time, but hopefully you can catch it on the sale price.
> 
> Also, when I first got my 5040, when watching Amazon Prime movies, I was not getting HDR and getting really frustrated. I was watching Grand Tour and Lemans which was shot in 4K. Well I was just manually searching for the videos and started watching and it was not in HDR. Well stupid me did not realize that you have to scroll through the menus to the 4K UHD section in Amazon, then it worked, just a little FYI!


Is it on sale right now? At best buy or?
Thanks for the tip, i'll remember that


----------



## Juiced46

sahil0909 said:


> Is it on sale right now? At best buy or?
> Thanks for the tip, i'll remember that



Its on sale from all Authorized dealers until 9/9. Most of the vendors here sell them with no tax depending on where you live and free 2 day shipping. Bestbuy will hit you with tax. So choose wisely


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> Its on sale from all Authorized dealers until 9/9. Most of the vendors here sell them with no tax depending on where you live and free 2 day shipping. Bestbuy will hit you with tax. So choose wisely


Got that!  Not going to make it within a week though i don't think


----------



## NetViper

I'm ordering mine from Todd at projector people before then sale is over. Sounds like no update to the Epson line.


----------



## Oledurt

TheBrandon said:


> I'm glad you're pretty sure but his stand off comments regarding putting his calibrated 5040 against a JVC set the tone. Additionally he is flat out wrong on pricing but I respect his opinion on if he thinks even a $500 difference is worth it. To each their own.
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully, I am in the 5k-10k market so I am done here but again I think I've been fair based on looking at these at inception though not having seen firmware updates or any of the tweaks that have been made as I don't frequent these threads. As I have mentioned the 5040 throws a beautiful image as well as the others. No one loses with a 5040, unless you're a gamer and want 60hz with all the bells and whistles of course. This is really its only major flaw in my eyes. You won't see me parading any projector though as they all leave room for improvements even in the 100k range. To my eyes some are better than others based on needs and their respective price range. Every projector I've mention is in the same price range, down or up.
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck all, enjoy the 5040/6040!!
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: If anyone has any questions or would like some more detail on my opinions or has info that proves anything I have said is incorrect please feel free to PM me and I am happy to help however I can and of course listen.[/]
> 
> I still will put my Calibrated Epson against the JVC.
> 
> I don't care what price range you shop in. What is the point of throwing that out there? Am I supposed to be impressed? If so, I am not, and frankly comments like that make you sound like a pompous, ostentatious, pretentious, egomaniac...with all due respect.
> 
> Finally, Myself, and Dave Harper have done more in this forum to help the owners of this projector, than you.
> 
> Best of luck to you too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## TheBrandon

Oledurt said:


> TheBrandon said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad you're pretty sure but his stand off comments regarding putting his calibrated 5040 against a JVC set the tone. Additionally he is flat out wrong on pricing but I respect his opinion on if he thinks even a $500 difference is worth it. To each their own.
> 
> 
> 
> Respectfully, I am in the 5k-10k market so I am done here but again I think I've been fair based on looking at these at inception though not having seen firmware updates or any of the tweaks that have been made as I don't frequent these threads. As I have mentioned the 5040 throws a beautiful image as well as the others. No one loses with a 5040, unless you're a gamer and want 60hz with all the bells and whistles of course. This is really its only major flaw in my eyes. You won't see me parading any projector though as they all leave room for improvements even in the 100k range. To my eyes some are better than others based on needs and their respective price range. Every projector I've mention is in the same price range, down or up.
> 
> 
> 
> Best of luck all, enjoy the 5040/6040!!
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: If anyone has any questions or would like some more detail on my opinions or has info that proves anything I have said is incorrect please feel free to PM me and I am happy to help however I can and of course listen.[/]
> 
> I still will put my Calibrated Epson against the JVC.
> 
> I don't care what price range you shop in. What is the point of throwing that out there? Am I supposed to be impressed? If so, I am not, and frankly comments like that make you sound like a pompous, ostentatious, pretentious, egomaniac...with all due respect.
> 
> Finally, Myself, and Dave Harper have done more in this forum to help the owners of this projector, than you.
> 
> Best of luck to you too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Is that how you read that? I thought that sentence was pretty clear, as I specifically mentioned I had not actually seen any advancements on this device since launch in regards to firmware or tweaks like those that Dave makes or has made. Way to manipulate that at the expense of tooting your own horn. Good gosh LOL. I am glad you help those in this thread regarding this projector. My intentions were only to offer my impressions with this projector and others in its price class but clearly any opinions outside of singing this devices praises has hurt you personally. That sucks, we all love this hobby. Pardon my interruption. Blowing a kiss though really? We're both dudes... come on man  Feel free to PM me regarding this device as others here have if you feel you need too. No need to further disprupt this thread and others joys over what you've made personal.
Click to expand...


----------



## onair125

Any owners with Roku Ultra with their Epson 5040ub?

I noticed some issue when using the Netflix app.
When scrolling thru movies/shows, between 4K Ultra HD and regular HD (vice versa), my Epson 5040ub would lose signal (blank screen) for a good 10-20 seconds before it would come back. It seems like the Epson 5040ub would lose connection when the contents switches between 4k and HD. 
Any idea to fix this?


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

I have applied bright cinema settings from Oledurt and I must say they are very impressive. Thanks for sharing them. 

Overall I am super happy with the purchase


----------



## sahil0909

Hey guys, i have one more question about the epson 5040ub, since games don't work on the xbox one s with hdr, i've heard that you can use a hd fury linker which will retain the rec 2020 color space for games with 4k and hdr, even though hdr won't work. Is that true? And is 4k SDR with rec 2020 very much superior to 4k SDR with only the normal rec 709 that would be there without a hd fury linker? Thanks


----------



## sahil0909

Oledurt said:


> Here are my final settings for HDR. These supersede all other settings I have offered. Contrast now extends to 1200 nits. Colors all extend to 1000 nits or more. You will want to set your own brightness setting, and you can set the color saturation, and tint settings to your liking.
> 
> I would ask that you try the settings as is first, and let me know what you think.
> 
> Finally, these are the result of tweaking I have done as well as my calibrator Michael Boeker of High Impact AV.
> 
> highimpactav.com
> 
> I have spent nearly $500 on multiple Calibrations to achieve this result, on this projector. I would ask, with respect that you limit criticisms of the settings in your space. These were created for me, and my Theater. Your results will vary.
> 
> Positive feedback is always welcome. With that here are my complete settings for HDR.
> 
> Color Mode Bright Cinema
> Brightness 40
> Contrast 50
> Color Saturation 43
> Tint 43
> Sharpness 5/5/5
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 5
> 
> Customized
> Offset R 50
> Offset G 50
> Offset B 52
> Gain R 52
> Gain G 52
> Gain B 41
> 
> Image Enhancement Preset 1
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris Off
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma 0,1,2,4,6,8,8,6,0
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> R 53,45,54
> G 53,50,40
> B 56,43,50
> C 67,46,50
> M 71,43,54
> Y 48,47,49
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> Signal Menu-->Advanced
> HDMI Video Range Expanded
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto(bright)
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hey man, thanks so much for your settings. I wanted to ask you, since you have got these great settings for HDR, what do you think about the opinions of some people that on projectors, even this epson, stripping out HDR and only using the Rec 2020 color space along with SDR and 4k, will provide a better result than using HDR with 4k. What's your opinion?


----------



## Azekecse

rmilyard said:


> Looks pretty good. So not seen any distortion from the curve?
> 
> Might get one if not m


Once I hung it and zero keystoned the projector, the picture is beautiful (1.1 gain, light controlled). No pincushion or distortion is present, brightness and contrast are uniform throughout the picture, no blooming. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Juiced46

sahil0909 said:


> Hey guys, i have one more question about the epson 5040ub, since games don't work on the xbox one s with hdr, i've heard that you can use a hd fury linker which will retain the rec 2020 color space for games with 4k and hdr, even though hdr won't work. Is that true? And is 4k SDR with rec 2020 very much superior to 4k SDR with only the normal rec 709 that would be there without a hd fury linker? Thanks


I had the same thoughts as you before buying the projector because I was reading through all of these posts. I was pulling my hair out about the no HDR gaming stuff, thinking about the HD Linker etc etc. My suggestion to you would be, get the projector. Calibrate it, use it for a few days on multiple sources to get used to it and then make a decision. I tossed the linker idea right out the window once I started gaming on the 5040 lol.


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> I had the same thoughts as you before buying the projector because I was reading through all of these posts. I was pulling my hair out about the no HDR gaming stuff, thinking about the HD Linker etc etc. My suggestion to you would be, get the projector. Calibrate it, use it for a few days on multiple sources to get used to it and then make a decision. I tossed the linker idea right out the window once I started gaming on the 5040 lol.


Wow is the gaming that good? I will definitely see it before making the decision, i just wanted to see if anyone's done it and how big the difference is with the rec 2020 color space, so i'm guessing no one on the thread has the tried the combination yet?


----------



## spirithockey79

sahil0909 said:


> Hey man, thanks so much for your settings. I wanted to ask you, since you have got these great settings for HDR, what do you think about the opinions of some people that on projectors, even this epson, stripping out HDR and only using the Rec 2020 color space along with SDR and 4k, will provide a better result than using HDR with 4k. What's your opinion?




I have the Oppo 203 and the 5040. The Oppo can strip HDR but currently there is an issue with black levels. That said, I still find the picture better stripping HDR and keeping bt2020 than using any of the HDR settings provided by Dave or Oledurt. They’ve been great starting points for my calibration, and I’ve had my calibrator come out twice. I still have a memory setting for Oledurt’s Bright cinema settings tweaked for my room, as well as Dave Harpers but when I toggle back and forth I keep finding myself preferring the Dig Cinema strip-HDR setting. I think it’s probably due to the black levels. They seem more black without HDR. With either Oledurt or HV the blacks seem more grey and as you make changes the grey just becomes a darker grey yet never get to black. Just my observations for my room, YMMV


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

spirithockey79 said:


> I have the Oppo 203 and the 5040. The Oppo can strip HDR but currently there is an issue with black levels. That said, I still find the picture better stripping HDR and keeping bt2020 than using any of the HDR settings provided by Dave or Oledurt. They’ve been great starting points for my calibration, and I’ve had my calibrator come out twice. I still have a memory setting for Oledurt’s Bright cinema settings tweaked for my room, as well as Dave Harpers but when I toggle back and forth I keep finding myself preferring the Dig Cinema strip-HDR setting. I think it’s probably due to the black levels. They seem more black without HDR. With either Oledurt or HV the blacks seem more grey and as you make changes the grey just becomes a darker grey yet never get to black. Just my observations for my room, YMMV
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hey thanks for the information buddy, that's something i've heard quite alot of people say, i guess with SDR the picture will just be brighter right? How much rec 2020 does the epson cover though? i think it covers 100% dci p3 right?
One more question, does 4k 10bit rec 2020 and HDR work for movies with the epson and oppo?


----------



## spirithockey79

sahil0909 said:


> Hey thanks for the information buddy, that's something i've heard quite alot of people say, i guess with SDR the picture will just be brighter right? How much rec 2020 does the epson cover though? i think it covers 100% dci p3 right?
> 
> One more question, does 4k 10bit rec 2020 and HDR work for movies with the epson and oppo?




I believe it’s close to 100%. Yes on the 4k 10bit rec2020 & HDR. I’m running out of patience with Oppo however as the strip function should be an easy fix. Also, if they can implement an HDR slider like the Panasonic 900 then perhaps an HDR setting would look better. It could very well be that using Oledurts HDR setting with the Panny combo provides great black levels, in which case I would switch in a heartbeat. If Oppo can’t get the strip function to work better or doesn’t implement something similar to the Panny then I may just buy the Panny. For the Oppo I get 4:2:2 12bit HDR bt2020 with no issues paired with the Epson.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

spirithockey79 said:


> I believe it’s close to 100%. Yes on the 4k 10bit rec2020 & HDR. I’m running out of patience with Oppo however as the strip function should be an easy fix. Also, if they can implement an HDR slider like the Panasonic 900 then perhaps an HDR setting would look better. It could very well be that using Oledurts HDR setting with the Panny combo provides great black levels, in which case I would switch in a heartbeat. If Oppo can’t get the strip function to work better or doesn’t implement something similar to the Panny then I may just buy the Panny. For the Oppo I get 4:2:2 12bit HDR bt2020 with no issues paired with the Epson.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Wow close to 100% rec 2020!! Yeah oppo does have some problems, but i think dolby vision is the main advantage over panny, if you don't need DV, i think the panasonic would be great too! Hope the problem get fixed for you though! 
So i guess i'll just have to wait and see once i get the epson, if i find bt 2020 with hdr looks good enough for me i'll just stick with it, if not then i might try out the hd fury linker, that's the only way i've heard i can strip off hdr and remain with bt 2020 and 4k! Any idea where i can get the hd fury linker? a link maybe? I don't know if they are different types or just one
i actually saw two different ones with different prices, so i'd love if someone could point me to the right one for my needs. thanks


----------



## spirithockey79

sahil0909 said:


> Wow close to 100% rec 2020!! Yeah oppo does have some problems, but i think dolby vision is the main advantage over panny, if you don't need DV, i think the panasonic would be great too! Hope the problem get fixed for you though!
> 
> So i guess i'll just have to wait and see once i get the epson, if i find bt 2020 with hdr looks good enough for me i'll just stick with it, if not then i might try out the hd fury linker, that's the only way i've heard i can strip off hdr and remain with bt 2020 and 4k! Any idea where i can get the hd fury linker? a link maybe? I don't know if they are different types or just one
> 
> i actually saw two different ones with different prices, so i'd love if someone could point me to the right one for my needs. thanks




Sorry, I was referring to the P3 coverage. Not sure what % the coverage is for bt2020. I don’t know much about the fury integral or linker, but you should be able to find quite a bit of info searching this thread. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Soccerdude

I am so disappointed with 6040 & 4k discs it looks way too dark for my liking some thing with Netflix 4k stuff . Other than that it rocks. For DVD I am using Oppo203. Any new FW for the 6040 yet?...


----------



## spirithockey79

Soccerdude said:


> I am so disappointed with 6040 & 4k discs it looks way too dark for my liking some thing with Netflix 4k stuff . Other than that it rocks. For DVD I am using Oppo203. Any new FW for the 6040 yet?...




Have you tried stripping HDR with the Oppo? The picture will be much brighter with a wider color gamut but you should use the Digital Cinema setting on the 6040 to take advantage of it. When you strip HDR you’ll need to change the target luminance. I find 100 or 150 seems to work best. For HDR Bright Cinema seems to be the best setting, but still some issues with getting deep blacks IMO 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ayrton

Soccerdude said:


> I am so disappointed with 6040 & 4k discs it looks way too dark for my liking some thing with Netflix 4k stuff . Other than that it rocks. For DVD I am using Oppo203. Any new FW for the 6040 yet?...


Have you used "Strip HDR" on the 203?? Read the above posts.

My 203 does a great job at that setting. Also have oledurts and Harpervision. All look great on mine..


----------



## Oledurt

keep in mind when you strip hdr there will be a color shift. Using the expanded video range under hdmi settings does raise the black floor but you can compensate for this by lowering brightness.

I also find using auto iris really improves the black levels.

Finally, make sure you are using my latest settings.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rmerlano

Oledurt said:


> Finally, make sure you are using my latest settings.


Do you have a place where we can view the settings and updates?
Or someone else?


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> keep in mind when you strip hdr there will be a color shift. Using the expanded video range under hdmi settings does raise the black floor but you can compensate for this by lowering brightness.
> 
> I also find using auto iris really improves the black levels.
> 
> Finally, make sure you are using my latest settings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Yeah, I’ve done that. My brightness and contrast were pretty close to your settings after calibrating for Expanded. Even with the Iris backed off to about -10, or even -15 to -20 the blacks just don’t seem as “deep”. 

The guy that calibrated my Dig Cinema setting did this for SDR bt2020 so I believe the settings are taking into account any color shift. I badly want to enjoy HDR to its fullest, I’m just not thrilled with the lack of deep blacks. Of course it could be some of the demo material I’m using where maybe the scenes are supposed to be more grey? I like to use the scene in Fate of the Furious (3rd scene) where they are in Berlin at night. Everything looks dark grey vs black, whereas using strip HDR the blacks look much better.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

spirithockey79 said:


> Yeah, I’ve done that. My brightness and contrast were pretty close to your settings after calibrating for Expanded. Even with the Iris backed off to about -10, or even -15 to -20 the blacks just don’t seem as “deep”.
> 
> The guy that calibrated my Dig Cinema setting did this for SDR bt2020 so I believe the settings are taking into account any color shift. I badly want to enjoy HDR to its fullest, I’m just not thrilled with the lack of deep blacks. Of course it could be some of the demo material I’m using where maybe the scenes are supposed to be more grey? I like to use the scene in Fate of the Furious (3rd scene) where they are in Berlin at night. Everything looks dark grey vs black, whereas using strip HDR the blacks look much better.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Try dropping the second gamma point down to -5 and turn the iris on. report back.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> Try dropping the second gamma point down to -5 and turn the iris on. report back.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Ok, I’ll try that and will let you know.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## marco1975

getting my EH-TW9300/5040UB tomorrow , mainly using it for movies Full HD/UHD HDR. what are the most accurate picture mode out of the box?. any tips and tricks? or something in the setting that i should be aware of? thanks.


----------



## Soccerdude

Thank you all for these great tips. I will report back .


----------



## spirithockey79

marco1975 said:


> getting my EH-TW9300/5040UB tomorrow , mainly using it for movies Full HD/UHD HDR. what are the most accurate picture mode out of the box?. any tips and tricks? or something in the setting that i should be aware of? thanks.




For normal Blu-ray Natural seems to be the best, and for HDR either Bright Cinema with Auto Bright (HDR 1), or if you can’t get over the whites/blacks clipping due to lack of nits on this pj you could try an HDR-to-SDR conversion which would use Digital Cinema. There is a spreadsheet link on this thread that includes good settings from users Oledurt and Dave Harper.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## panman40

Oledurt said:


> Try dropping the second gamma point down to -5 and turn the iris on. report back.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm sure you are aware but just a word of caution by dropping point 2 down to -5 will more than likely give black crush, it certainly would on my unit, as you rightly say though using the auto Iris will give better blacks on an all dark scene, I don't use it myself as it's annoying hearing the tap tap tapping when it's opening and closing.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

some pictures from Star Trek HDR on Bright Cinema settings form Oledurt (unfortunately pictures are not reflecting what eye can see). Jaw dropping effect guaranteed. Several times the scenes of the sun were so bright I had to close my eyes as if it was real.


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> I'm sure you are aware but just a word of caution by dropping point 2 down to -5 will more than likely give black crush, it certainly would on my unit, as you rightly say though using the auto Iris will give better blacks on an all dark scene, I don't use it myself as it's annoying hearing the tap tap tapping when it's opening and closing.




It will not give you black crush. You may have to adjust brightness a click.

auto iris is optional.

If lowering the gamma point does not work I have tweaked settings using Epson Super White as well.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

marco1975 said:


> getting my EH-TW9300/5040UB tomorrow , mainly using it for movies Full HD/UHD HDR. what are the most accurate picture mode out of the box?. any tips and tricks? or something in the setting that i should be aware of? thanks.


check if you have the latest firmware 109:
http://www.projectorreviews.com/review-tv/epson-firmware-update-5040ub-6040ub-4040ub/

for HDR apply either Bright Cinema settings form Oledurt or digital cinema harpervision (for me personally bright cinema works better)

for SDR natural mode works fine. Few pages back you will find all the settings listed under the link.


----------



## Oledurt

Since you are not using my settings that advice does not apply to you. That advice applies to the guy I quoted who is using my settings that had some issues with black level. I was attempting to help him troubleshoot an issue he is having with my settings.

I have said it time and time again. These settings were crafted for my theater. Tweak as you wish but know that the minute you make a change to "oledurts bright cinema settings" they are no longer my settings they are your settings. Your results with your settings.

The gamma curves I am offering did not come out of thin air. They were crafted by my calibrator. Tested, and re tested in my theater.

When I advise someone to lower gamma point 2 to -5 it is not off the top of my head. It was tested. 

Using the expanded video range does raise the black floor (black Gamma). Epson Super White set to on might be a better option for that user because it extends the white gamma contrast without raising the black floor.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

Oledurt said:


> Since you are not using my settings that advice does not apply to you. That advice applies to the guy I quoted who is using my settings that had some issues with black level. I was attempting to help him troubleshoot an issue he is having with my settings.
> 
> I have said it time and time again. These settings were crafted for my theater. Tweak as you wish but know that the minute you make a change to "oledurts bright cinema settings" they are no longer my settings they are your settings. Your results with your settings.
> 
> The gamma curves I am offering did not come out of thin air. They were crafted by my calibrator. Tested, and re tested in my theater.
> 
> When I advise someone to lower gamma point 2 to -5 it is not off the top of my head. It was tested.
> 
> Using the expanded video range does raise the black floor (black Gamma). Epson Super White set to on might be a better option for that user because it extends the white gamma contrast without raising the black floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




I should be able to test lowering gamma point 2 as well as your settings using Super White ON in the next few hours and will report back. Appreciate all your help!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

spirithockey79 said:


> I should be able to test lowering gamma point 2 as well as your settings using Super White ON in the next few hours and will report back. Appreciate all your help!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Any suggestions on a UHD that has deep blacks in HDR? I want to make sure I’m testing with material that should be black vs grey. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

spirithockey79 said:


> Any suggestions on a UHD that has deep blacks in HDR? I want to make sure I’m testing with material that should be black vs grey.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




john wick 2


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> I'm not going to argue oledurt, the fact remains that gamma point 2 does affect shadow detail regardless of other settings. I was just trying to make that clear that's all. Nothing worse than somebody trying to get black blacks ( something that cannot be achieved with a projector) only to then be hiding important shadow detail.
> 
> Thinking about it your last set of gamma settings you were using did not have point 2 at -5 did they ?.



Ok you want me to agree with you. I AGREE!! Now can I get back to helping the guy I was trying to assist. 



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## marco1975

MartyMcFlyy said:


> check if you have the latest firmware 109:
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/review-tv/epson-firmware-update-5040ub-6040ub-4040ub/
> 
> for HDR apply either Bright Cinema settings form Oledurt or digital cinema harpervision (for me personally bright cinema works better)
> 
> for SDR natural mode works fine. Few pages back you will find all the settings listed under the link.


Thanks, is this update also works on the european model which called Epson eh-tw9300. ? iam not sure whcih version mine comes with , as i didn,t get the projector today , as usaul post service delay, will have to wait another few days i guess 
by the way any one find the fan noise bothersome on this projector ? iam going to shelf mount it 2-feet away behind me and high close to the ceiling, was wonder if its more noisy then the jvc dla-x35 or about the same..


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> No need to get like that about it, it was just a heads up from me that's all, since you keep claiming your unit has been meticulously calibrated how many times I've lost count in actual fact but as soon as you adjusted colour saturation and tint afterwards by eye that's your calibration void.




My goodness! I have only tried to help you guys. Your comments are not appreciated sir!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Oledurt

panman40 said:


> ? Lol!, you've blown this way out of proportion, we all try and help on forums where possible, I'm only speaking the truth but will bow out now and leave you to it .




Congratulations, you sir HAVE actually upset me. I will remove my settings off this thread. 

My goal here was to help and assist. Not be attacked by you or anyone else. I have said over and over. My calibrated settings may not work for you!

I explicitly stated when I posted my last ISF settings that I did not wish to hear criticism of the calibration out of RESPECT for my calibrator Michael Boeker.

These ISF Calibrations have provided me a 10 fold improvement on this projector. They have not only made my projector capable of showing HDR, but also provided an enjoyable HDR experience. 

I was not initially going to share my calibrated settings, but I was encouraged by Mr. Harper to do so. As a matter of fact I also have PM's from YOU asking for help! At this point, I am regretting that decision and will not be inclined to offer my settings again.

Now I am through . 






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Metric

Jeez is this the pram and dolly owners thread.


----------



## TungstenBMW

ruggercb said:


> So my 5040 never powered on; the blue light turned on so I thought it was fixed. Wrong! I hit the power button and the light shut off, no amount of button pressing or bad language would revive it.
> 
> Epson is overnighting me a refurb...one question- do the refurbs come with a new bulb? I'm guessing so but you never know.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, EPSON told me all refurbs come with a brand new bulb.
This being said, inspect the lens and case really well before you go through the trouble of ceiling mounting and reconfiguring settings. Both of the refurbs I received had the lens coating marred up badly.

Update, 2nd new replacement is working. Fingers crossed that this will be the end of this debacle for me.


----------



## ruggercb

TungstenBMW said:


> Yes, EPSON told me all refurbs come with a brand new bulb.
> 
> This being said, inspect the lens and case really well before you go through the trouble of ceiling mounting and reconfiguring settings. Both of the refurbs I received had the lens coating marred up badly.
> 
> 
> 
> Update, 2nd new replacement is working. Fingers crossed that this will be the end of this debacle for me.




Yeah the lens coating on the first refurb was so bad I never turned it on. The replacement replacement will be here tomorrow. Fingers crossed as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jason_galaxy

Blade Runner, 4K. 

Amazing. A bit of grain in the dark scenes as expected but turning off image enhancement softened it
just enough.


----------



## sahil0909

Hey guys, if i could pick your brain for one more thing please! What exactly is an anamorphic lens? And could it help in making my image larger? Considering my room will only allow placing my projector about 10-11 feet from the wall, resulting in a screen size smaller than i'd love, can an anamorphic lens help with that? And will it work with the 5040ub nicely? Thanks


----------



## edoggrc51

edoggrc51 said:


> Quick question fellas as I just want to make sure im not missing something simple. My 2 week old 5040UBE won’t turn on. Using the remote or the button on the PJ does nothing. I’ve tried a few different power cords and outlets but no go. The projector is pretty much DONE-ZO right??


Update: Epson is sending out a new replacement. They said it’s probably a bad power supply.

At least dealing with them on the issue was pretty painless.


----------



## Juiced46

sahil0909 said:


> Hey guys, if i could pick your brain for one more thing please! What exactly is an anamorphic lens? And could it help in making my image larger? Considering my room will only allow placing my projector about 10-11 feet from the wall, resulting in a screen size smaller than i'd love, can an anamorphic lens help with that? And will it work with the 5040ub nicely? Thanks



What screen size are you looking to do?


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> What screen size are you looking to do?


And again it's you helping me out!  At about 10 feet i don't think i can do more than 100 normally can i? That's why i was looking at anamorphic lenses although i don't know what exactly these are, will it allow me to make the screen size bigger? Like say 120-140 inches? or even bigger


----------



## Juiced46

sahil0909 said:


> And again it's you helping me out!  At about 10 feet i don't think i can do more than 100 normally can i? That's why i was looking at anamorphic lenses although i don't know what exactly these are, will it allow me to make the screen size bigger? Like say 120-140 inches? or even bigger


I am staying out of the bickering in this post lol. I feel bad for Oledurt. He shared his settings that he paid for, posted them on the forum for us to use for free at our own risk and he still gets flak for it. 

I do not think the Anamorphic lense will do what you are thinking. Why is the limitation 10-11 feet for you? 

@ an 11ft lens to screen distance with full zoom on the 5040UB it will give you a 112" image

@ a 10ft lens to screen distance with full zoom it will give you a 102" image. 

If you want to go any larger, you will need to find a way to get the projector further back.


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> I am staying out of the bickering in this post lol. I feel bad for Oledurt. He shared his settings that he paid for, posted them on the forum for us to use for free at our own risk and he still gets flak for it.
> 
> I do not think the Anamorphic lense will do what you are thinking. Why is the limitation 10-11 feet for you?
> 
> @ an 11ft lens to screen distance with full zoom on the 5040UB it will give you a 112" image
> 
> @ a 10ft lens to screen distance with full zoom it will give you a 102" image.
> 
> If you want to go any larger, you will need to find a way to get the projector further back.


Yeah i agree with you totally, if someone doesn't like the settings just don't use them it's simple.
It's because i don't have a dedicated theater room in this house, and i dont have much distance in the living room between the front and back wall! That's too bad i thought the anamorphic lense will widen the picture to give a much larger image


----------



## Juiced46

sahil0909 said:


> Yeah i agree with you totally, if someone doesn't like the settings just don't use them it's simple.
> It's because i don't have a dedicated theater room in this house, and i dont have much distance in the living room between the front and back wall! That's too bad i thought the anamorphic lense will widen the picture to give a much larger image


What is the depth of the living room? Are there any obstacles in the way? There are ways to make things work if you get creative and have a bit more room. My room is 21' deep, but I have a 15' wide Steel support beam that runs the width of my theater right across the middle (we had to remove a column so I needed the beam). It made for some extra obstacles to tackle to get my image size and so it does not block peoples views. I ended up building a shelf suspended from the ceiling that hangs down behind the beam but enough so the projector fits just under it. It hangs a bit low. But I made it work. I only have a 100" screen, but with plans to go to 120". I have to modify the shelf I made to get the projector further back. 

If you room is only 11ft deep, then it may be tough.


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> What is the depth of the living room? Are there any obstacles in the way? There are ways to make things work if you get creative and have a bit more room. My room is 21' deep, but I have a 15' wide Steel support beam that runs the width of my theater right across the middle (we had to remove a column so I needed the beam). It made for some extra obstacles to tackle to get my image size and so it does not block peoples views. I ended up building a shelf suspended from the ceiling that hangs down behind the beam but enough so the projector fits just under it. It hangs a bit low. But I made it work. I only have a 100" screen, but with plans to go to 120". I have to modify the shelf I made to get the projector further back.
> 
> If you room is only 11ft deep, then it may be tough.


Yes because i'm living in an apartment you see? Have plans to move out soon but as of now i have literally no space, my current projector is actually touching the back wall so there's not even an extra inch i would be able to move back further! 
I guess i'll just have to stick with the 10 feet till i move out


----------



## Juiced46

sahil0909 said:


> Yes because i'm living in an apartment you see? Have plans to move out soon but as of now i have literally no space, my current projector is actually touching the back wall so there's not even an extra inch i would be able to move back further!
> I guess i'll just have to stick with the 10 feet till i move out


Ahhh, that makes sense. You are basically limited to the room them. Look up the dimensions of the 5040 and deduct the depth of the PJ from your room depth + a few inches for clearance at the back wall. The 5040 is a big projector. If you can get 10ft from lens to screen, that is still a 100-102" screen. IMO @ a 10ft viewing distance in your case it sounds more like 9ft, that is a good screen size for now. You do not want to strain yourself by looking all over the screen if its too big. Some people do 120-140 @ a 10ft viewing distance, but IMO that is too big being that close.


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> Ahhh, that makes sense. You are basically limited to the room them. Look up the dimensions of the 5040 and deduct the depth of the PJ from your room depth + a few inches for clearance at the back wall. The 5040 is a big projector. If you can get 10ft from lens to screen, that is still a 100-102" screen. IMO @ a 10ft viewing distance in your case it sounds more like 9ft, that is a good screen size for now. You do not want to strain yourself by looking all over the screen if its too big. Some people do 120-140 @ a 10ft viewing distance, but IMO that is too big being that close.


Yes i did that calculation and i should have just over 10 feet from the lens to the screen! I know that's not a bad size at my distance but i just prefer a little bit of a larger picture, needless to say i always look for the seats closer to the screen at the cinema!  But 100 inch is still great though, especially with the quality of the epson!!
Till 2 months back i was satisfied with a 55 inch


----------



## inspector

I sit 12' from my 110" screen and it works fine because I'm limited because of my room size, 12' x 17'.


Really into 3D now, so I moved the front seats up to about 10'-10 1/2' from the screen. Now I have much better immersion in the 3D picture.


----------



## sahil0909

inspector said:


> I sit 12' from my 110" screen and it works fine because I'm limited because of my room size, 12' x 17'.
> 
> 
> Really into 3D now, so I moved the front seats up to about 10'-10 1/2' from the screen. Now I have much better immersion in the 3D picture.


I wish i had a bigger room so i could throw a 150 inch picture! To think at first i though 100 inch might be too big, and now i just want more


----------



## sahil0909

Juiced46 said:


> Ahhh, that makes sense. You are basically limited to the room them. Look up the dimensions of the 5040 and deduct the depth of the PJ from your room depth + a few inches for clearance at the back wall. The 5040 is a big projector. If you can get 10ft from lens to screen, that is still a 100-102" screen. IMO @ a 10ft viewing distance in your case it sounds more like 9ft, that is a good screen size for now. You do not want to strain yourself by looking all over the screen if its too big. Some people do 120-140 @ a 10ft viewing distance, but IMO that is too big being that close.


Hey what aspect ratio screen do you use? Do you use the normal 16:9 or did you go with 2.40? Your pic from fate of the furious really doesn't look like it has black bars so i'm guessing you went with 2.40?


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

marco1975 said:


> Thanks, is this update also works on the european model which called Epson eh-tw9300. ? iam not sure whcih version mine comes with , as i didn,t get the projector today , as usaul post service delay, will have to wait another few days i guess
> by the way any one find the fan noise bothersome on this projector ? iam going to shelf mount it 2-feet away behind me and high close to the ceiling, was wonder if its more noisy then the jvc dla-x35 or about the same..


yes it works. I also have TW9300 and it worked. Fan noise is non-existent in medium and ECO modes. In high there is some but if the projector is ceiling mounted should not be any problem. I have it mounted with low profile and even on high mode for 3d its ok for me. When shelf mounted close to the head (high mode) could be audible/bothersome.


----------



## panman40

inspector said:


> I sit 12' from my 110" screen and it works fine because I'm limited because of my room size, 12' x 17'.
> 
> 
> Really into 3D now, so I moved the front seats up to about 10'-10 1/2' from the screen. Now I have much better immersion in the 3D picture.


I agree John, I find I need to pull my seat in another 3-4feet for the best 3D immersion, sadly I can't make it permanent due to not being able to move my surround speakers forwards too and also a fireplace on my right wall. I can't get a bigger screen in either which is a shame, all good fun though!.


----------



## ruggercb

sahil0909 said:


> And again it's you helping me out!  At about 10 feet i don't think i can do more than 100 normally can i? That's why i was looking at anamorphic lenses although i don't know what exactly these are, will it allow me to make the screen size bigger? Like say 120-140 inches? or even bigger




A horizontal expansion A lens makes the image 1/3 wider, but you only really want that in the proper aspect ratio. It will stretch everything that goes through it, including 16:9 content. Also, your letterboxed stuff will be that much wider and still the same height. If you use a PC for content you can set a custom resolution that will keep everything proper AR wise, or I hear that the lumagen processors are good at scaling. 

All this is expensive though, unless you find a decent used lens they are at least the cost of the 5040ub.

I have a lens, wouldn't be without it, but it takes a lot of effort to make everything work right. It's kinda a pursuit in and of itself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

ruggercb said:


> A horizontal expansion A lens makes the image 1/3 wider, but you only really want that in the proper aspect ratio. It will stretch everything that goes through it, including 16:9 content. Also, your letterboxed stuff will be that much wider and still the same height. If you use a PC for content you can set a custom resolution that will keep everything proper AR wise, or I hear that the lumagen processors are good at scaling.
> 
> All this is expensive though, unless you find a decent used lens they are at least the cost of the 5040ub.
> 
> I have a lens, wouldn't be without it, but it takes a lot of effort to make everything work right. It's kinda a pursuit in and of itself.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks alot for the reply, okay once you get the lense, i wish it was as easy as all widescreen movies playing perfectly, but i read that they are three or more widescreen ratios, 2.35:1, 2.39:1, 2.40:1 e.t.c Why is it so? Wouldn't be easier if there was only one so i would be able to play all widescreen movies perfectly on one screen? But now i'll have to choose one of these ratio screens and all other ratio movies will suffer right?


----------



## ruggercb

sahil0909 said:


> Thanks alot for the reply, okay once you get the lense, i wish it was as easy as all widescreen movies playing perfectly, but i read that they are three or more widescreen ratios, 2.35:1, 2.39:1, 2.40:1 e.t.c Why is it so? Wouldn't be easier if there was only one so i would be able to play all widescreen movies perfectly on one screen? But now i'll have to choose one of these ratio screens and all other ratio movies will suffer right?




To me it's pretty negligible between .35 and .40. You can use a program like plex or kodi to stretch or squeeze that last .05. I think the real problem with you would be fighting is the pincushion distortion. At such a short throw ratio the center of the image will be pinched and the edges will be wider. You counteract this by using a curved screen but bear in mind the curvature of an off-the-shelf screen will not be correct for the throw ratio of your projector, so there will still be distortion ppresent.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

ruggercb said:


> To me it's pretty negligible between .35 and .40. You can use a program like plex or kodi to stretch or squeeze that last .05. I think the real problem with you would be fighting is the pincushion distortion. At such a short throw ratio the center of the image will be pinched and the edges will be wider. You counteract this by using a curved screen but bear in mind the curvature of an off-the-shelf screen will not be correct for the throw ratio of your projector, so there will still be distortion ppresent.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wow i actually didn't understand any of that  Haha i'm really not knowledgeable on this stuff, could you kindly explain that in an easy way please?


----------



## ruggercb

sahil0909 said:


> Wow i actually didn't understand any of that  Haha i'm really not knowledgeable on this stuff, could you kindly explain that in an easy way please?



I think a good way to explain it is with the anamorphic lens the projector is no longer projecting a flat image and you have to pproject it onto a curved surface to make it appear flat.

Not every ccurve ssurface is the same though, and not every projector and lens combination is the same.



.


----------



## sahil0909

ruggercb said:


> I think a good way to explain it is with the anamorphic lens the projector is no longer projecting a flat image and you have to pproject it onto a curved surface to make it appear flat.
> 
> Not every ccurve ssurface is the same though, and not every projector and lens combination is the same.
> 
> 
> 
> .


Wow really? I actually had no idea about that! 
But if i was getting one, which ratio would be best in order to make sure none of the content suffers much, 2.35:1, 2.39:1 or 2.40:1?
And lastly what is your opinion on this screen? I am putting a link of the video just check it out plz. - https://elitescreens.com/elitetube/vmax_dual_product_video.mp4

The screen itself is this one https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-VMAX-Dual-2-35/dp/B00Y7XU0XI?th=1


----------



## ruggercb

sahil0909 said:


> Wow really? I actually had no idea about that!
> 
> But if i was getting one, which ratio would be best in order to make sure none of the content suffers much, 2.35:1, 2.39:1 or 2.40:1?
> 
> And lastly what is your opinion on this screen? I am putting a link of the video just check it out plz. - https://elitescreens.com/elitetube/vmax_dual_product_video.mp4
> 
> 
> 
> The screen itself is this one https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-VMAX-Dual-2-35/dp/B00Y7XU0XI?th=1




I think that screen set up would be most beneficial if you could use the zoom function of your projector. It's still only goes so wide.

Edit- I think I would go with a 2.35 to 1 and if it was a wider aspect ratio movie there'd be small black bars top and bottom. The hateful eight by Quenton Tarantino is 2.76 to 1 so nothing is perfect.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

ruggercb said:


> I think that screen set up would be most beneficial if you could use the zoom function of your projector. It's still only goes so wide.
> 
> Edit- I think I would go with a 2.35 to 1 and if it was a wider aspect ratio movie there'd be small black bars top and bottom. The hateful eight by Quenton Tarantino is 2.76 to 1 so nothing is perfect.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wow this stuff really is complicated huh. Isn't the width going to be based on the distance of the projector from the screen?
And one more thing, if i was to watch a 2.40:1 movie on a 16:9 screen, would the letterbox bars reduce the size of the screen, both height and width, to the same size it would be on a 2.40:1 screen? Or would the 2.40:1 screen provide a wider image?


----------



## ruggercb

sahil0909 said:


> Wow this stuff really is complicated huh. Isn't the width going to be based on the distance of the projector from the screen?
> 
> And one more thing, if i was to watch a 2.40:1 movie on a 16:9 screen, would the letterbox bars reduce the size of the screen, both height and width, to the same size it would be on a 2.40:1 screen? Or would the 2.40:1 screen provide a wider image?




Yes the overall size is definitely tied to the distance between the projector and screen. But that size will always be 16 x 9 format unless you use a lens to stretch it wider or a processor to scale it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

ruggercb said:


> Yes the overall size is definitely tied to the distance between the projector and screen. But that size will always be 16 x 9 format unless you use a lens to stretch it wider or a processor to scale it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the info buddy, all your help is really appreciated the time you took to help me understand. Tbh though i just can't seem to wrap my head around it. I think in the end i might just end up going with the 16:9 since it seems much simpler


----------



## kbarnes701

sahil0909 said:


> Thanks for the info buddy, all your help is really appreciated the time you took to help me understand. Tbh though i just can't seem to wrap my head around it. I think in the end i might just end up going with the 16:9 since it seems much simpler


Think of it like this: all your Blu-rays are 16:9 format. Even when the movie is 2.39:1 format, the Blu-ray still leaves the PJ as 16:9 (roughly 1.85:1). However, the top and bottoms of the image are 'black bars'. The black bars are projected IOW.

So if you have a 16:9 screen, movies in 'Scope format (2.39:1) will fill the screen widthways, but will have black bars top and bottom. Many people use masks to hide these bars. If you project a 'flat format' movie (1.85:1) then you fill the screen widthways AND heightwise too.

Many people, me included, choose the biggest 2.39:1 screen they can accommodate to get the full 'cinematic' effect (about 80% of all new movies are in 'Scope format anyway). The black bars are still projected, but they disappear into the velvet surround of your screen so become effectively invisible.

However... when you project a Flat movie on a 2.39 screen, you will now get black bars *down the sides* of the image. You will always have black bars whichever screen format you choose because you are projecting the 'wrong' format for the screen some of the time. Some people can tolerate side black bars more than top and bottom black bars since the former are not as much in your field of vision, being at the periphery of the screen. Others will use vertical masking (me included) to effectively make these side black bars invisible.

One last thing. When you project either format on a CIH screen, you will need to rezoom the PJ and possibly refocus too whenever you change formats, so ideally you need either a PJ which can do this electrically (like the Epson 5040) or a video processor like a Lumagen etc. It is too much of a PITA to rezoom and refocus a PJ manually every time you switch formats.

So yeah. It is complicated and takes a while to get your head around it. However... to get a true cinematic feel, your Scope movies MUST be bigger (wider) than your flat movies. Just like in a real cinema, so if you are a diehard enthusiast, you will likely want to go Scope screen.

And finally, all of the above applies to movies. If you watch a lot of TV or televised sport in your HT, you may want to choose a 16:9 screen as that is the format the latter are in. Bottom line: choose the format that suits the content you watch most. And bear in mind that even if that is movies, about 80% of modern movies are in Scope.

Phew. HTH!


----------



## sahil0909

kbarnes701 said:


> Think of it like this: all your Blu-rays are 16:9 format. Even when the movie is 2.39:1 format, the Blu-ray still leaves the PJ as 16:9 (roughly 1.85:1). However, the top and bottoms of the image are 'black bars'. The black bars are projected IOW.
> 
> So if you have a 16:9 screen, movies in 'Scope format (2.39:1) will fill the screen widthways, but will have black bars top and bottom. Many people use masks to hide these bars. If you project a 'flat format' movie (1.85:1) then you fill the screen widthways AND heightwise too.
> 
> Many people, me included, choose the biggest 2.39:1 screen they can accommodate to get the full 'cinematic' effect (about 80% of all new movies are in 'Scope format anyway). The black bars are still projected, but they disappear into the velvet surround of your screen so become effectively invisible.
> 
> However... when you project a Flat movie on a 2.39 screen, you will now get black bars *down the sides* of the image. You will always have black bars whichever screen format you choose because you are projecting the 'wrong' format for the screen some of the time. Some people can tolerate side black bars more than top and bottom black bars since the former are not as much in your field of vision, being at the periphery of the screen. Others will use vertical masking (me included) to effectively make these side black bars invisible.
> 
> One last thing. When you project either format on a CIH screen, you will need to rezoom the PJ and possibly refocus too whenever you change formats, so ideally you need either a PJ which can do this electrically (like the Epson 5040) or a video processor like a Lumagen etc. It is too much of a PITA to rezoom and refocus a PJ manually every time you switch formats.
> 
> So yeah. It is complicated and takes a while to get your head around it. However... to get a true cinematic feel, your Scope movies MUST be bigger (wider) than your flat movies. Just like in a real cinema, so if you are a diehard enthusiast, you will likely want to go Scope screen.
> 
> And finally, all of the above applies to movies. If you watch a lot of TV or televised sport in your HT, you may want to choose a 16:9 screen as that is the format the latter are in. Bottom line: choose the format that suits the content you watch most. And bear in mind that even if that is movies, about 80% of modern movies are in Scope.
> 
> Phew. HTH!


Hey thank you so much for your long post buddy, it really gave me more insight into the concept of aspect ratios. 
But after everything i've gathered from everyone's helpful posts, i just don't think i can do a scope screen no matter how bad i want it. Since i'm not very knowledgeable on this tech stuff, i'm the guy who just want to set his projector once and never have to come back to it again, just switch on and play!
I would even consider buying two separate screens, but then i'd still have to keep fiddling with the zoom and focus everyday! And also i'd need even more money for the anamorphic lense, since i read that not using a lens and choosing to use the zoom feature reduces the number of pixels used! And reduces the brightness or something.


----------



## marco1975

just received mine today, got it set up and working , updated the firmware to the latest. Movies in SDR. picture looks great , but as soon as i play a UHD. movie with HDR. the picture dosn,t looks as good, the black are not so deep and kind of greyish , and the colours are not so vibrent like in SDR. get kind of washed out a bit....iam using cinema/bright cinema with HDR. 1 setting as some users suggested for UHD. veiwing. Don,t know if iam missing something alse here...


----------



## Boggle

marco1975 said:


> just received mine today, got it set up and working , updated the firmware to the latest. Movies in SDR. picture looks great , but as soon as i play a UHD. movie with HDR. the picture dosn,t looks as good, the black are not so deep and kind of greyish , and the colours are not so vibrent like in SDR. get kind of washed out a bit....iam using cinema/bright cinema with HDR. 1 setting as some users suggested for UHD. veiwing. Don,t know if iam missing something alse here...



the default HDR settings stink, try oledurts settings or harpervision.


----------



## kbarnes701

sahil0909 said:


> Hey thank you so much for your long post buddy, it really gave me more insight into the concept of aspect ratios.
> But after everything i've gathered from everyone's helpful posts, i just don't think i can do a scope screen no matter how bad i want it. Since i'm not very knowledgeable on this tech stuff, i'm the guy who just want to set his projector once and never have to come back to it again, just switch on and play!


In that case, get a 16:9 screen and sit back and enjoy. Get the biggest screen you can accommodate (bearing in mind your seating distance from it) and you will get a good result with everything you throw at it.




sahil0909 said:


> I would even consider buying two separate screens, but then i'd still have to keep fiddling with the zoom and focus everyday! And also i'd need even more money for the anamorphic lense, since i read that not using a lens and choosing to use the zoom feature reduces the number of pixels used! And reduces the brightness or something.


Yeah - the anamorphic lens enables you to use all the pixels in the image (remember those black bars are *projected*, so their pixels are 'wasted'). When you use an anamorphic lens, your PJ squishes all the pixels onto the screen, distorting (stretching) the image. Then the lens squishes it back again to give you an undistorted image which uses all the available pixels. Neat. But... as you and others have identified, the anamorphic lens brings a whole load of other issues with it. 

For someone like you, who just wants an uncomplicated experience, the 16:9 screen will give you that with no long-term fiddling about needed. And now you know the ins and outs of both types of screen, at least you have considered the options and are making an informed, educated choice. I call that a result! 

Best of luck with it all, buddy.


----------



## sahil0909

kbarnes701 said:


> In that case, get a 16:9 screen and sit back and enjoy. Get the biggest screen you can accommodate (bearing in mind your seating distance from it) and you will get a good result with everything you throw at it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah - the anamorphic lens enables you to use all the pixels in the image (remember those black bars are *projected*, so their pixels are 'wasted'). When you use an anamorphic lens, your PJ squishes all the pixels onto the screen, distorting (stretching) the image. Then the lens squishes it back again to give you an undistorted image which uses all the available pixels. Neat. But... as you and others have identified, the anamorphic lens brings a whole load of other issues with it.
> 
> For someone like you, who just wants an uncomplicated experience, the 16:9 screen will give you that with no long-term fiddling about needed. And now you know the ins and outs of both types of screen, at least you have considered the options and are making an informed, educated choice. I call that a result!
> 
> Best of luck with it all, buddy.


Thanks so much man once again for making me not feel so bad about missing out on a scope screen 
Just so that i'm aware in the future if i ever decide to upgrade, what problems do anamorphic lenses bring with them?


----------



## kbarnes701

sahil0909 said:


> Thanks so much man once again for making me not feel so bad about missing out on a scope screen
> Just so that i'm aware in the future if i ever decide to upgrade, what problems do anamorphic lenses bring with them?


You're welcome!

The issues mentioned in the thread really. You can get (usually will get) pincushion distortion; you have to have a lens suitable for your PJ's throw distance; some anamorphic lenses throw the PJ settings out a little when you use them, and this can mean fiddling about; you really need some way to move the anamorphic lens out of the way of the PJ when you project 16:9 content - this is a real PITA to do manually, so chances are you will need some sort of sled, so kiss goodbye to another $1,000 for that; and so on. Given what you say about wanting a 'set and forget' solution, I am thinking anamorphic is not the best way ahead for you


----------



## sahil0909

kbarnes701 said:


> You're welcome!
> 
> The issues mentioned in the thread really. You can get (usually will get) pincushion distortion; you have to have a lens suitable for your PJ's throw distance; some anamorphic lenses throw the PJ settings out a little when you use them, and this can mean fiddling about; you really need some way to move the anamorphic lens out of the way of the PJ when you project 16:9 content - this is a real PITA to do manually, so chances are you will need some sort of sled, so kiss goodbye to another $1,000 for that; and so on. Given what you say about wanting a 'set and forget' solution, I am thinking anamorphic is not the best way ahead for you


Wow i didn't know that, i thought the anamorphic lense is just a light piece of kit i can remove any time i want!
Thanks so much for giving me that info, now that i know i won't be able to remove it and return it with ease whenever i want, it just makes my decision for me! I'm just going with the 16:9. Can't waste so much money, and then again have to put in so much hard work, just to get widescreen. All this work would ruin the experience for me! Thank you so much once again though buddy, you just came and helped me make my decision. Highly appreciated


----------



## kbarnes701

sahil0909 said:


> Thanks so much man once again for making me not feel so bad about missing out on a scope screen
> Just so that i'm aware in the future if i ever decide to upgrade, what problems do anamorphic lenses bring with them?


BTW buddy, there's no need to feel bad - choice of screen is a personal preference thing and there's no right or wrong to it. It depends as much on what you use the HT for as anything else. I am a strictly 'movies only' guy in my HT but if I watched a lot of sport or made-for-TV content like Game of Thrones etc in there, I'd be considering a 16:9 screen for sure.


----------



## kbarnes701

sahil0909 said:


> Wow i didn't know that, i thought the anamorphic lense is just a light piece of kit i can remove any time i want!
> Thanks so much for giving me that info, now that i know i won't be able to remove it and return it with ease whenever i want, it just makes my decision for me! I'm just going with the 16:9. Can't waste so much money, and then again have to put in so much hard work, just to get widescreen. All this work would ruin the experience for me! Thank you so much once again though buddy, you just came and helped me make my decision. Highly appreciated


 Time to move on to enjoying your HT then! 

Yeah, the problem is that an anamorphic lens is designed to make 'Scope content work well, so when you shoot 16:9 at it, it has a problem. One way or another you have to solve that problem and the usual advice is to remove the lens from the light path when you project 16:9. And that is not a simple thing to do, especially if the PJ is mounted high up. Even if the PJ is easily accessible, moving the lens and replacing it means a fair bit of fiddling about to get it back in the exact right spot each time. An automated sled is a great solution, but they cost a small fortune.

I actually had an anamorphic lens and I ended up selling it on eBay because the result, for me, wasn't worth the effort (and expense). So now to change formats I use the motorised zoom and focus features on my 5400, setting a lens memory for 2.39 and another for 1.85. With my Scope format screen this works very well, shooting the black bars off into the velvet surround. When I watch 16:9 movies, I hit the 1.85:1 lens setting button and the PJ zooms and focuses and my motorised masks come in at the sides to cover the vertical black bars. For me, that was a neater and easier solution than trying to make my lens work well. Others will have different views and experiences of course, but with HT there is usually more than one way to skin a cat


----------



## Azekecse

This is great information...I considered the 2:35:1 format screen and A-Lens, but too expensive for my taste if you do it correctly, (~$3K-$4K for the lens, another >$1K for the sled).  Besides I watch a lot of sports, GOT, and 16:9 content. I watch Blu-Ray 4k movies, however the bars don't bother me as much as others, I may consider DIY masking which is a much less expensive solution. I have spent too much already, it never ends , but I'm enjoying what I have. In the end, it's about your happiness and enjoyment.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## sahil0909

kbarnes701 said:


> Time to move on to enjoying your HT then!
> 
> Yeah, the problem is that an anamorphic lens is designed to make 'Scope content work well, so when you shoot 16:9 at it, it has a problem. One way or another you have to solve that problem and the usual advice is to remove the lens from the light path when you project 16:9. And that is not a simple thing to do, especially if the PJ is mounted high up. Even if the PJ is easily accessible, moving the lens and replacing it means a fair bit of fiddling about to get it back in the exact right spot each time. An automated sled is a great solution, but they cost a small fortune.
> 
> I actually had an anamorphic lens and I ended up selling it on eBay because the result, for me, wasn't worth the effort (and expense). So now to change formats I use the motorised zoom and focus features on my 5400, setting a lens memory for 2.39 and another for 1.85. With my Scope format screen this works very well, shooting the black bars off into the velvet surround. When I watch 16:9 movies, I hit the 1.85:1 lens setting button and the PJ zooms and focuses and my motorised masks come in at the sides to cover the vertical black bars. For me, that was a neater and easier solution than trying to make my lens work well. Others will have different views and experiences of course, but with HT there is usually more than one way to skin a cat


That is absolutely true, i think the more i get familiar with this stuff the more i'll be able to advance, but for now the 16:9 is the first step for me! Maybe i can change that in the future. Another problem with scope screen for me would be that it would probably have ended up being too small for me since i only have a throw of just 10 feet, with this throw the 16:9 ratio can be big enough but the 2.39 would end up being too small especially in height right?


----------



## kbarnes701

Azekecse said:


> This is great information...I considered the 2:35:1 format screen and A-Lens, but too expensive for my taste if you do it correctly, (~$3K-$4K for the lens, another >$1K for the sled). Besides I watch a lot of sports, GOT, and 16:9 content. I watch Blu-Ray 4k movies, however the bars don't bother me as much as others, I may consider DIY masking which is a much less expensive solution. I have spent too much already, it never ends , but I'm enjoying what I have. *In the end, it's about your happiness and enjoyment.*


Sometimes people forget that last sentence there of yours. 

DIY masking is well worthwhile. I did that in my last HT. Got some kind of expanded foam, rigid but light, cut it to the right size, covered it in black velvet and fixed strong magnets to it. Fixed another set of magnets to the screen frame and then just snapped the masks in place, top and bottom, as needed. Since most of my viewing is in Scope format, I didn't have to remove them very often, but when I did, it just took a few seconds. Laid them on the floor underneath the screen, velvet side up, and they became invisible during the movie. Great solution and cost next to nothing.

The additional perceived contrast makes this a very good upgrade.


----------



## kbarnes701

sahil0909 said:


> That is absolutely true, i think the more i get familiar with this stuff the more i'll be able to advance, but for now the 16:9 is the first step for me! Maybe i can change that in the future. Another problem with scope screen for me would be that it would probably have ended up being too small for me since i only have a throw of just 10 feet, with this throw the 16:9 ratio can be big enough but the 2.39 would end up being too small especially in height right?


Probably true - and another good reason to choose 16:9.


----------



## sahil0909

kbarnes701 said:


> Probably true - and another good reason to choose 16:9.


So thanks one last time man, have a great day!


----------



## marco1975

Would someone please kindly point me to Oledurt and harpervision settings?
i would realy like to try them out...thise projector looks terrible in HDR. default setting
seriously, SDR. blu-ray looks much better then UHD blu-ray as its...


----------



## ayrton

marco1975 said:


> Would someone please kindly point me to Oledurt and harpervision settings?
> i would realy like to try them out...thise projector looks terrible in HDR. default setting
> seriously, SDR. blu-ray looks much better then UHD blu-ray as its...


http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf

I think that is everything available on this thread Posted by ht guy..

Have fun!!


----------



## marco1975

ayrton said:


> http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf
> 
> I think that is everything available on this thread Posted by ht guy..
> 
> Have fun!!


Thank you.


----------



## WynsWrld98

ayrton said:


> http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf
> 
> I think that is everything available on this thread Posted by ht guy..
> 
> Have fun!!


Image Preset and Super White blank for most of that so does that mean up to user preference?


----------



## NetViper

Just ordered my 5040. What's the best 4k BLU ray to get for this projector?


----------



## ht guy

ruggercb said:


> A horizontal expansion A lens makes the image 1/3 wider, but you only really want that in the proper aspect ratio. It will stretch everything that goes through it, including 16:9 content. Also, your letterboxed stuff will be that much wider and still the same height. If you use a PC for content you can set a custom resolution that will keep everything proper AR wise, or I hear that the lumagen processors are good at scaling.
> 
> All this is expensive though, unless you find a decent used lens they are at least the cost of the 5040ub.
> 
> I have a lens, wouldn't be without it, but it takes a lot of effort to make everything work right. It's kinda a pursuit in and of itself.


...and the 6040 will do both vertical stretch and horizontal squeeze so you don't have to remove the lens.


----------



## ruggercb

ht guy said:


> ...and the 6040 will do both vertical stretch and horizontal squeeze so you don't have to remove the lens.




If I could turn back time, and have access to one, I would have bought a 6040...that said, in no review I read did they state the 5040 couldn't stretch and squeeze...they were supposedly identical in that regard. My $800 benq stretched!!! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## slackmack

Does anyone know a retail location in the Baltimore/Washington D.C. area that has the Epson 5040 on display? I'd like to see it's display quality in person before buying.


----------



## MinnesotaMan

Projector is finally setup. Applied Oledurt's settings and it looks really good. Only thing I want to see if can be dialed in more is the blacks look a little ashy. I'm not expecting ink dark blacks, but I feel like it could be better.

Overall super thrilled!


----------



## MinnesotaMan

Couple photos

https://ibb.co/dYKkzF

https://ibb.co/d2gb6v


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Horizon zero dawn in HDR looks sick ! 
Everyone who is looking for great HDR with wide colour gamut should really see 5040ub in action ...

some pictures enclosed


----------



## Lesmor

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Horizon zero dawn in HDR looks sick !
> Everyone who is thinking on great HDR with wide colour gamut should really see 5040ub in action ...
> 
> some pictures enclosed


More interested in how it looks with movies than games
So in that context HDR with out of the box settings does indeed look "sick" as in you should call a doctor (calibrator) to make it better


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Lesmor said:


> More interested in how it looks with movies than games
> So in that context HDR with out of the box settings does indeed look "sick" as in you should call a doctor (calibrator) to make it better


sure thing. These settings are not out of the box I am showing.
It was pre-calibrated and tweaked to my conditions.
But I plan to call a "doctor"  Still cannot imagine it will look even better


----------



## sahil0909

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Horizon zero dawn in HDR looks sick !
> Everyone who is looking for great HDR with wide colour gamut should really see 5040ub in action ...
> 
> some pictures enclosed


But you can't run it with 4k hdr right? You have to choose between either 4k or 1080p HDR correct?


----------



## Azekecse

slackmack said:


> Does anyone know a retail location in the Baltimore/Washington D.C. area that has the Epson 5040 on display? I'd like to see it's display quality in person before buying.


Yes, you can check out most Magnolia's (BB), they usually have Epson 5040 on display, just call before you head out.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

NetViper said:


> Just ordered my 5040. What's the best 4k BLU ray to get for this projector?


The Great Wall with Matt Damon works very well...IMHO.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## NetViper

Azekecse said:


> The Great Wall with Matt Damon works very well...IMHO.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Sorry, I meant best 4k Blu Ray PLAYER that works with this projector.


----------



## kbarnes701

ht guy said:


> ...and the 6040 will do both vertical stretch and horizontal squeeze so you don't have to remove the lens.


Good point. Not all PJs do this of course, but this is the 5040/6040 thread after all! 

However, in the UK our very similar 9300 model only permits horizontal squeeze and has no vertical stretch feature.

IDK why Epson have these small differences for different markets (we never got the THX mode on the predecessor PJ either).


----------



## Azekecse

NetViper said:


> Sorry, I meant best 4k Blu Ray PLAYER that works with this projector.


The two most popular are the following:

1). Oppo 203/205 (I own the 203, which works well for me)

2). Panasonic DMP-UB900 (this has a brightness slider which people seem to love)

They are many variations after that, your budget would dictate that. You should buy the best 4k player your budget can afford, or you may have a kink in your armor .

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## NetViper

Azekecse said:


> The two most popular are the following:
> 
> 1). Oppo 203/205 (I own the 203, which works well for me)
> 
> 2). Panasonic DMP-UB900 (this has a brightness slider which people seem to love)
> 
> They are many variations after that, your budget would dictate that. You should buy the best 4k player your budget can afford, or you may have a kink in your armor .
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke



Great. Do all of them pretty much work the same now with this projector? It seemed when it was new there were issues with different ones.


----------



## kbarnes701

NetViper said:


> Great. Do all of them pretty much work the same now with this projector? It seemed when it was new there were issues with different ones.


I am using the Panasonic UB900 and it works perfectly with my (UK model) 9300 (equivalent to USA 5040).

K


----------



## dholmes54

I'm a little confused about using Harpervision or Oledurts settings, do you shut off HDR on your player but choose 1,2 or 3 on the Epson? Thxs for everyone's patience for my dumb questions


----------



## nwbearcat21

dholmes54 said:


> I'm a little confused about using Harpervision or Oledurts settings, do you shut off HDR on your player but choose 1,2 or 3 on the Epson? Thxs for everyone's patience for my dumb questions


I am doing the electrical walk through today for my home I am building and putting this projector in the basement. I am going with a 100 in screen for now but may go bigger later. I am thinking of putting the electrical outlet at 12'6 inches away from the screen wall. The room is 16 feet long total. I know the projector can be closer than that for the 100 in screen but it needs to be at 11'9 inches if I go up to 120 at some point. Is there any negative effects to having the projector mounted a couple feet back than it needs to be for my 100 in screen? Thanks!


----------



## MinnesotaMan

nwbearcat21 said:


> I am doing the electrical walk through today for my home I am building and putting this projector in the basement. I am going with a 100 in screen for now but may go bigger later. I am thinking of putting the electrical outlet at 12'6 inches away from the screen wall. The room is 16 feet long total. I know the projector can be closer than that for the 100 in screen but it needs to be at 11'9 inches if I go up to 120 at some point. Is there any negative effects to having the projector mounted a couple feet back than it needs to be for my 100 in screen? Thanks!


With the zoom function and lens shift of this projector, you have a lot of freedom in where you can mount it and be fine. It's one of the reasons I bought the projector. So in your case, you would just zoom in a little bit to fit your screen accordingly.


----------



## nwbearcat21

MinnesotaMan said:


> With the zoom function and lens shift of this projector, you have a lot of freedom in where you can mount it and be fine. It's one of the reasons I bought the projector. So in your case, you would just zoom in a little bit to fit your screen accordingly.


Ok Great, I just didn't know if zooming in too much would effect the picture quality.


----------



## MinnesotaMan

nwbearcat21 said:


> Ok Great, I just didn't know if zooming in too much would effect the picture quality.


When I was playing with the zoom feature last night, the picture actually got sharper the smaller I made it (which you would expect I guess right? Pixels getting tighter together...).

You should be fine!


----------



## slackmack

Is anyone using an anamorphic lens with the 5040 with or w/o a video processor, & if so how? Just trying to figure out if my lens will now be useless. I figure if I keep my Lumagen XD (no 3D, no 4k) I can still do 2.35 scaling for 1080i/p material, and use the other (HDCP 2.2) HDMI port for UHD blu-ray bypassing the XD. Alternatively I could just remove the XD & the lens & just use zoom, I guess. Question is whether I loose a noticeable amount of video processing if I loose the Lumagen XD as compared to the 5040's native video processing. Any suggestions?


----------



## welldun

nwbearcat21 said:


> I am doing the electrical walk through today for my home I am building and putting this projector in the basement. I am going with a 100 in screen for now but may go bigger later. I am thinking of putting the electrical outlet at 12'6 inches away from the screen wall. The room is 16 feet long total. I know the projector can be closer than that for the 100 in screen but it needs to be at 11'9 inches if I go up to 120 at some point. Is there any negative effects to having the projector mounted a couple feet back than it needs to be for my 100 in screen? Thanks!


I'm projecting onto a 100 inch screen from around 16 feet and the picture is plenty bright and sharp. Enjoy your setup.


----------



## WynsWrld98

It sounds like the 5040/6040 will be around another year based on no announcement of a 5050/6050 so far at CEDIA this week.


----------



## NetViper

WynsWrld98 said:


> It sounds like the 5040/6040 will be around another year based on no announcement of a 5050/6050 so far at CEDIA this week.


Yeah, that's why I ordered mine


----------



## WynsWrld98

NetViper said:


> Yeah, that's why I ordered mine


I've gotten some pretty killer Black Friday deals on my last two Epsons (current 5030 owner) so I will likely be trying it again on a 5040 the upcoming Black Friday. I have been following announcements from Sony, JVC, Optoma and BenQ but still feel the 5040 has the best bang for the buck in the price range.


----------



## marco1975

Lesmor said:


> More interested in how it looks with movies than games
> So in that context HDR with out of the box settings does indeed look "sick" as in you should call a doctor (calibrator) to make it better


i have tried every settings there is in this thread, unfortunately i coudn,t get any decent result with HDR. on mine , as u have said HDR. looks so sick out of the box on this projector. i have had it for 2 days now and iam completely disappointed with HDR. performance, and i prefer to watch SDR. the way its now.
nevertheless .BIG thanks to all users who had shared their setting and have tried to help!


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Azekecse said:


> The two most popular are the following:
> 
> 1). Oppo 203/205 (I own the 203, which works well for me)
> 
> 2). Panasonic DMP-UB900 (this has a brightness slider which people seem to love)
> 
> They are many variations after that, your budget would dictate that. You should buy the best 4k player your budget can afford, or you may have a kink in your armor .
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


I would also add UB700 if one doesn't need additional outputs for audio. Apart from that and different design and remote it works same as UB900.


----------



## Lesmor

marco1975 said:


> i have tried every settings there is in this thread, unfortunately i coudn,t get any decent result with HDR. on mine , as u have said HDR. looks so sick out of the box on this projector. i have had it for 2 days now and iam completely disappointed with HDR. performance, and i prefer to watch SDR. the way its now.
> nevertheless .BIG thanks to all users who had shared their setting and have tried to help!


To try and add balance to my original post
I bought the Epson to replace a 8yr old 1080p Panasonic AE3000 
In that regard it was a excellent choice as the PQ in 1080p can be stunning 
I prefer watching this projector with SDR Blu-rays in native resolution i.e. no upscaling and pixel shifting enhancement off

Harpervision settings do make UHD HDR discs watchable but with current pricing of the discs in the UK I will stick with SDR Blu-ray


----------



## nwbearcat21

welldun said:


> I'm projecting onto a 100 inch screen from around 16 feet and the picture is plenty bright and sharp. Enjoy your setup.


Thanks! I ended up putting the plug in at 13 feet.


----------



## MinnesotaMan

I have my 5040 mounted at 17 feet away, image size is 123". Granted I have a purely light controlled basement projecting onto a flat white wall, but using Oledurt's settings with Chris the Rock's tweaks, I am now very happy with the PQ. Also played some PS4 FPS games on it last night such as Destiny and Witcher 3...no input lag at all was noticed by me.

Couldn't be happier right now!


----------



## ayrton

marco1975 said:


> i have tried every settings there is in this thread, unfortunately i coudn,t get any decent result with HDR. on mine , as u have said HDR. looks so sick out of the box on this projector. i have had it for 2 days now and iam completely disappointed with HDR. performance, and i prefer to watch SDR. the way its now.
> nevertheless .BIG thanks to all users who had shared their setting and have tried to help!


I am playing HDR using oledurt's latest settings and it looks great! Have you tried them??


----------



## nemesis9

ayrton said:


> I am playing HDR using oledurt's latest settings and it looks great! Have you tried them??


Where are his settings? Can't find them in the thread and would really like them

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

NetViper said:


> Just ordered my 5040. What's the best 4k BLU ray to get for this projector?


Don't know if anyone answered yet, but i think lucy is like one of the reference 4k disks these days


----------



## marco1975

ayrton said:


> I am playing HDR using oledurt's latest settings and it looks great! Have you tried them??


i have tried that two , unfortunately it dosn,t work out for me.
i did some of my own tweaking to cinema bright mode , and it gave me some of the result i was looking for, which is deep black and deep colour, the only thing i did is that i have changed the hdmi vedio range -Normal , dynamic range -Auto bright, gamma -0, lamp mode -eco, Auto iris -off, iris -20.
its not perfect or accurate by any means and i know i have some little crushed black, so there is some trade off here, but still to my eyes its a far better result then the sick defualt HDR. setting.


----------



## sahil0909

nemesis9 said:


> Where are his settings? Can't find them in the thread and would really like them
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


Here are oledurt's latest/final settings:

Color Mode Bright Cinema
Brightness 40
Contrast 50
Color Saturation 43
Tint 43
Sharpness 5/5/5
Color Temp 4
Skin Tone 5

Customized
Offset R 50
Offset G 50
Offset B 52
Gain R 52
Gain G 52
Gain B 41

Image Enhancement Preset 1
Power Consumption Medium
Auto Iris Off

Advanced
Gamma 0,1,2,4,6,8,8,6,0

[RGBCMY]
R 53,45,54
G 53,50,40
B 56,43,50
C 67,46,50
M 71,43,54
Y 48,47,49

Epson Super White Off
Lens Iris 0

Signal Menu-->Advanced
HDMI Video Range Expanded
Color Space Auto
Dynamic Range Auto(bright)
Image Processing Fine

You will want to set your own brightness setting, and you can set the color saturation, and tint settings to your liking.
You can also play around with auto iris and lens iris, here is what he updated: ‘I am using auto iris now and have the lens iris at -8’

Also as for image enhancement, you can increase it if you like, try out 2, 3, 4 to see which you like best.


----------



## WynsWrld98

sahil0909 said:


> Here are oledurt's latest/final settings:
> 
> Color Mode Bright Cinema
> Brightness 40
> Contrast 50
> Color Saturation 43
> Tint 43
> Sharpness 5/5/5
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 5
> 
> Customized
> Offset R 50
> Offset G 50
> Offset B 52
> Gain R 52
> Gain G 52
> Gain B 41
> 
> Image Enhancement Preset 1
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris Off
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma 0,1,2,4,6,8,8,6,0
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> R 53,45,54
> G 53,50,40
> B 56,43,50
> C 67,46,50
> M 71,43,54
> Y 48,47,49
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> Signal Menu-->Advanced
> HDMI Video Range Expanded
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto(bright)
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> You will want to set your own brightness setting, and you can set the color saturation, and tint settings to your liking.
> You can also play around with auto iris and lens iris, here is what he updated: ‘I am using auto iris now and have the lens iris at -8’
> 
> Also as for image enhancement, you can increase it if you like, try out 2, 3, 4 to see which you like best.


This is only for 4K HDR signals, right?


----------



## ayrton

nemesis9 said:


> Where are his settings? Can't find them in the thread and would really like them
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


A link to everything done on this thread posted by "ht guy"

http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf


----------



## nemesis9

ayrton said:


> A link to everything done on this thread posted by "ht guy"
> 
> http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf


Wow thanks a lot. Any particular setting the most popular amongst everyone? What's the difference in digital cinema, bright cinema and natural? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


----------



## Paul Cordingley

New firmware 1.10/1.04 is available in the US. Has anyone tried this yet? There's no obvious change log.


----------



## sahil0909

WynsWrld98 said:


> This is only for 4K HDR signals, right?


Yes, but some people also use them for blu rays and found they worked well apparently


----------



## Juiced46

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Horizon zero dawn in HDR looks sick !
> Everyone who is looking for great HDR with wide colour gamut should really see 5040ub in action ...
> 
> some pictures enclosed


Are you getting 4K HDR with the PS4 or is it 1080p HDR? Also if its 4K HDR are you using an HD Fury? I have a PS4 Pro but no HDR games to test yet. 



marco1975 said:


> i have tried every settings there is in this thread, unfortunately i coudn,t get any decent result with HDR. on mine , as u have said HDR. looks so sick out of the box on this projector. i have had it for 2 days now and iam completely disappointed with HDR. performance, and i prefer to watch SDR. the way its now.
> nevertheless .BIG thanks to all users who had shared their setting and have tried to help!


Can you elaborate a little more what you are disappointed about with the HDR? What player are you using for HDR? Also, stupid question, but have you verified that you are actually getting a 4K HDR signal to the projector? Using the settings in this thread, then slight tweaks to fit my setup, I think it looks way better then the out of box settings.


----------



## Azekecse

Paul Cordingley said:


> New firmware 1.10/1.04 is available in the US. Has anyone tried this yet? There's no obvious change log.


Yes I loaded ver 1.10, now I'm able to switch activities without any HDMI glitches, so far so good. I will provide any status updates when applicable.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## philipbtz

Why can't they give us a proper changelog. Useless


----------



## dholmes54

All these pages on settings I've got a little lost,basically you want to send a HDR signal to the Epson and switch the Epson to SDR correct?


----------



## marco1975

dholmes54 said:


> All these pages on settings I've got a little lost,basically you want to send a HDR signal to the Epson and switch the Epson to SDR correct?


Not quite -it seems that different users have different opinion about it, but the fact is, either way there is still a big trade off when it comes to displaying HDR. on projectors. 
in my opinion, still there are no real HDR. capable projector at the moment, unless maybe if step up to the high-end models


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Hi Guys,

I am posting settings that will improve 3d experience based on hours of tests:

3d mode: dynamic
3d brightness: medium
power consumption: medium
brightness: 50
3d depth: 1
diagonal screen size 140 inch

Enjoy!

This improves 3d in the main plan where most of action takes place.

Let me know what you think.

I also managed to replace battery in my genuine Epson 3d glasses - watchmaking work ...However, the operation was successful. It looks they were discharged for too long since I bought them. If anyone wants some hints on how to replace Li-on battery let me know.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

NetViper said:


> Yeah, that's why I ordered mine


same here


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs marco 1975


----------



## John Budny

ayrton said:


> A link to everything done on this thread posted by "ht guy"
> 
> http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf


This is incredibly useful to have all of the various user settings in one place. THANK YOU!


----------



## reechings

Seriously thinking about jumping on the 5040 wagon but the price is still a hurdle. Is B-stock an option for this projector and what are the tradeoffs in regards to quality/warranty etc? Does Epson only respect the warranty if purchased from the right dealer or can I look for the cheapest price on eBay? Thanks

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am posting settings that will improve 3d experience based on hours of tests:
> 
> 3d mode: dynamic
> 3d brightness: medium
> power consumption: medium
> brightness: 50
> 3d depth: 1
> diagonal screen size 140 inch
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> This improves 3d in the main plan where most of action takes place.
> 
> Let me know what you think.
> 
> I also managed to replace battery in my genuine Epson 3d glasses - watchmaking work ...However, the operation was successful. It looks they were discharged for too long since I bought them. If anyone wants some hints on how to replace Li-on battery let me know.


I've played around with the 3D Depth on my 5030 and don't see a difference. What did you notice when you changed this setting which led you to settle on the setting of 1? My 5030 doesn't ghost even with 3D brightness high on anything I've thrown at it which is a lot. My previous 6010 used to ghost quite a bit and I had to be really careful with the 3D brightness setting on it.


----------



## avsnoob10

Fellow Epson 5040/6040 owners question about the Chief mount:

Did anyone purchase the recommended Chief mount from B&H, here is a link but I can't tell if the SLB bracket is included because B&H also sells the SLB357 bracket separately:: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1292167-REG/chief_rpa357_with_slb357.html


Does the RPA357 from B&H include SLB357 bracket or do you have to order the RPA357 and the SLB357 bracket?


----------



## nemesis9

I'm buying this projector now but I need a mount that let's the pj hang low because I have a bulkhead it has to clear. Any thoughts? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


----------



## wontwa

Just sat down for the evening to watch Kong: Skull Island, and am getting the dreaded "no power" on the 5040 that other people in this thread have complained about. So irritated right now. Have only had this projector a month and a half, finally get Oledurt settings dialed in properly, have spent every spare moment since owning this thing getting the room set up prefectly....then this. 

It does nothing other than sit on the ceiling and then suddenly decides to not power on, it has 138 hours on it, and now I have to deal with whatever refurb Epson sends me. I cant even call Epson to complain/request a new one because their support is closed until Monday morning.

Sorry for the rant, just cant believe this has happened to me when I've been insanely careful with this thing, turn it off as soon as I'm done using it, etc. Have tried unplugging/plugging back in, checked breakers, multiple outlets, etc.


----------



## edoggrc51

wontwa said:


> Just sat down for the evening to watch Kong: Skull Island, and am getting the dreaded "no power" on the 5040 that other people in this thread have complained about. So irritated right now. Have only had this projector a month and a half, finally get Oledurt settings dialed in properly, have spent every spare moment since owning this thing getting the room set up prefectly....then this.
> 
> It does nothing other than sit on the ceiling and then suddenly decides to not power on, it has 138 hours on it, and now I have to deal with whatever refurb Epson sends me. I cant even call Epson to complain/request a new one because their support is closed until Monday morning.
> 
> Sorry for the rant, just cant believe this has happened to me when I've been insanely careful with this thing, turn it off as soon as I'm done using it, etc. Have tried unplugging/plugging back in, checked breakers, multiple outlets, etc.


That sucks man! I know the feeling, same thing happened to me last weekend. One thing I will say is that the Epson rep said the replacement unit they sent me was a BRAND NEW one. Anyone know how to tell the difference between refurb and new??


----------



## marco1975

are there Any known UHD-BD Player out there that can strip off the HDR. from the signal?
for me its been more trouble then enjoyment so far with HDR. it would be great if we have the choice to turn it ON/OFF at the source. this way everyone can be happy .


----------



## jsil

If it's in a white box with no Epson logo it's refurb. That's the way that it was done before.


----------



## WynsWrld98

marco1975 said:


> are there Any known UHD-BD Player out there that can strip off the HDR. from the signal?
> for me its been more trouble then enjoyment so far with HDR. it would be great if we have the choice to turn it ON/OFF at the source. this way everyone can be happy .


Oppo UDP-203 but it isn't working quite correct even with latest Beta firmware according to what I read yesterday in the Oppo UDP-203 posting, not sure if there are other options of an all-in-one 4K UHD player that can do it.


----------



## TungstenBMW

edoggrc51 said:


> That sucks man! I know the feeling, same thing happened to me last weekend. One thing I will say is that the Epson rep said the replacement unit they sent me was a BRAND NEW one. Anyone know how to tell the difference between refurb and new??


Based on my experience, the difference is that the new units come with the remote, batteries, and power cable. The box color was not white in my case. 

The two refurbs I received were obviously used with both having dings/scratches in the outer case and the lens coatings where badly marred. 

Good luck with the replacement.


----------



## marco1975

WynsWrld98 said:


> Oppo UDP-203 but it isn't working quite correct even with latest Beta firmware according to what I read yesterday in the Oppo UDP-203 posting, not sure if there are other options of an all-in-one 4K UHD player that can do it.


sounds good, it could be my next player if oppo got that problem fixed, even though its an overkill player for my need.


----------



## nemesis9

What player is everyone using for this projector? Trying to decide if an oppo is worth it since it has dolby vision and the Epson doesn't support it. Maybe be better off using an Xbox one s or a Sony 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Juiced46 said:


> Are you getting 4K HDR with the PS4 or is it 1080p HDR? Also if its 4K HDR are you using an HD Fury? I have a PS4 Pro but no HDR games to test yet.


1080p HDR. The advantage of using HDR is much more apparent than higher resolution only especially if you push image enhancement to 4 or 5 it looks already razor sharp.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

WynsWrld98 said:


> I've played around with the 3D Depth on my 5030 and don't see a difference. What did you notice when you changed this setting which led you to settle on the setting of 1? My 5030 doesn't ghost even with 3D brightness high on anything I've thrown at it which is a lot. My previous 6010 used to ghost quite a bit and I had to be really careful with the 3D brightness setting on it.


I was referring to 5040 not 5030 and removing ghosting form the main plan. It was bit there but with the setting its gone. I tested it on Prometheus and Rogue One 3d.


----------



## Hal_M

I just bought the Sony X800 4k player. I have it hooked up to my Epson 5040UB. I put on my first 4k disc, THE REVENANT. At first, the Epson read the color signal as bt2020 SDR. I ejected the disc, put it back in, and the signal came through to the Epson as bt2020 HDR. I've started and stopped the film several times and it seems to be a total crapshoot whether it comes through to the Epson as SDR or HDR. Can't find any rhyme or reason. Not sure if it's the Epson or the Sony or the cable. Or something I'm doing wrong. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.


----------



## reechings

Anyone seen a head to head or can give more input on 5040 vs the 4000. I saw a review that the black levels aren't as good on the 4000 but I'm curious because Costco is carrying the 4000 so I could try it out and return it if I don't like it. They also have the UHD60 but I don't want to give up 3D and have heard the blacks aren't great.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


----------



## ChadS13TDI

Problem with my Epson 5040. Only about 200 hrs on the PJ. 

Watching football this morning and after about 10 minutes it just shut off with no indication of a problem and won't come back on. I don't get any lights, nothing. I checked the power source and I can't seem to figure out what may have happened.


Anyone else had a similar problem or have any suggestions??


Will be calling Epson on Monday.


----------



## ChadS13TDI

above1 said:


> yes. the 3rd swap out lasted me about 30 days or so. Power supply was blown. My son was watching and it turned off. Never to turn on again.
> 
> Call epson roadside support and have then swap it out for you.
> 
> hope that helps


Looks like I may have had this problem too. Not good...


----------



## Juiced46

MartyMcFlyy said:


> 1080p HDR. The advantage of using HDR is much more apparent than higher resolution only especially if you push image enhancement to 4 or 5 it looks already razor sharp.


Thanks! I do not have an HDR games for the PS4 Pro yet so I have yet to be able to try it out.


----------



## Juiced46

reechings said:


> Seriously thinking about jumping on the 5040 wagon but the price is still a hurdle. Is B-stock an option for this projector and what are the tradeoffs in regards to quality/warranty etc? Does Epson only respect the warranty if purchased from the right dealer or can I look for the cheapest price on eBay? Thanks
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


I would be hesitant on a B stock unit or something from Ebay. From the prices I have seen, is the $400 savings going to be worth it? NO. 

Epson only warranties products sold from Authorized dealers. BE CAREFUL there is a seller on Ebay selling cheap 5040s that claims it comes with a full warranty, he is not an authorized dealer. I verified this with Epson and asked the seller some detailed questions. He blocked me on Ebay after questioning him. Also be careful from the Google search sellers that advertise cheaper then the Authorized dealers do. I do not think I am allowed to post specifics in this thread, but if you want more info about it, PM me. But I would highly recommend buying from an Authorized dealer.


----------



## nemesis9

Hal_M said:


> I just bought the Sony X800 4k player. I have it hooked up to my Epson 5040UB. I put on my first 4k disc, THE REVENANT. At first, the Epson read the color signal as bt2020 SDR. I ejected the disc, put it back in, and the signal came through to the Epson as bt2020 HDR. I've started and stopped the film several times and it seems to be a total crapshoot whether it comes through to the Epson as SDR or HDR. Can't find any rhyme or reason. Not sure if it's the Epson or the Sony or the cable. Or something I'm doing wrong. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.


I'm curious as well because i'm in the market for a video player and had my eyes on this unit.


----------



## NetViper

I picked up the cheap Samsung 4k blue ray player. It's $179 at Costco. Works great so far but I hate the remote.


----------



## aaranddeeman

NetViper said:


> I picked up the cheap Samsung 4k blue ray player. It's $179 at Costco. Works great so far but I hate the remote.


Philips BDP-7501 is much better (and also bit cheaper) than that. You should give it a try.


----------



## NetViper

aaranddeeman said:


> Philips BDP-7501 is much better (and also bit cheaper) than that. You should give it a try.


What makes it much better?


----------



## seplant

MartyMcFlyy said:


> I was referring to 5040 not 5030 and removing ghosting form the main plan. It was bit there but with the setting its gone. I tested it on Prometheus and Roughe One 3d.


If you're not seeing any ghosting with Rogue One, count yourself lucky. I can't play that one on anything but Low 3D brightness and zero 3D depth. Try the scene at the beginning where Director Krennic's ship come in for a landing. I can clearly see a double image of the ship as it flies toward the camera and then again as the wings fold up as it lands. Epson even sent me a new (not refurbished) projector because of 3D issues, and it showed ghosting in this scene as well. This is with Epson 3D glasses, 3D brightness on Low, and 3D depth at zero. Anything other than these settings increases the ghosting. I've found Rogue One to be about the worst 3D title as far as ghosting goes.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing (as long as I keep 3D Brightness on Low)! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## edoggrc51

ChadS13TDI said:


> Problem with my Epson 5040. Only about 200 hrs on the PJ.
> 
> Watching football this morning and after about 10 minutes it just shut off with no indication of a problem and won't come back on. I don't get any lights, nothing. I checked the power source and I can't seem to figure out what may have happened.
> 
> 
> Anyone else had a similar problem or have any suggestions??
> 
> 
> Will be calling Epson on Monday.


I recently had the same problem on my 3 week old 5040ube. Went to watch a flick and nothing. Was working perfectly fine just hours before. Called Epson and they overnighted a replacement. They said it was a bad power supply.


----------



## inspector

NetViper said:


> I picked up the cheap Samsung 4k blue ray player. It's $179 at Costco. Works great so far but I hate the remote.




I use a remote that handles everything in my HT, so I don't have to bother with that little thing. I like my player, it works for me and mine was bought for a great deal months ago for $250, you got a great price.


----------



## aaranddeeman

NetViper said:


> What makes it much better?


Zero issues of any kind.


----------



## above1

*5040UBe & XBox One S turns off*

I have the 5040UBe and when using it with my NVidia Shield I never experience the projector going into sleep or turning off. I can watch movies for hours and the thing stays on. When I switch it to the XB1 it always turns off after a period of time. Drives my son insane when he's playing games or watching Netflix. I can't figure out why. I even turned off sleep mode on the darn thing. This only happens with the XB1. 


I do have an Onkyo RZ800 that everything connects to and feed the 5040 with that. 


Anyone have any clue as to why this occurs? The receiver keeps playing the audio of the media I'm watching but the projector goes to sleep.


Any help is appreciated!


----------



## Dave Harper

dholmes54 said:


> I'm a little confused about using Harpervision or Oledurts settings, do you shut off HDR on your player but choose 1,2 or 3 on the Epson? Thxs for everyone's patience for my dumb questions



No you send full HDR to it, then manually select SDR mode and apply my custom gamma and settings. 




spirithockey79 said:


> I have the Oppo 203 and the 5040. The Oppo can strip HDR but currently there is an issue with black levels. *That said, I still find the picture better stripping HDR and keeping bt2020 than using any of the HDR settings provided by Dave or Oledurt. *They’ve been great starting points for my calibration, and I’ve had my calibrator come out twice. I still have a memory setting for Oledurt’s Bright cinema settings tweaked for my room, as well as Dave Harpers but when I toggle back and forth I keep finding myself preferring the Dig Cinema strip-HDR setting. I think it’s probably due to the black levels. They seem more black without HDR. With either Oledurt or HV the blacks seem more grey and as you make changes the grey just becomes a darker grey yet never get to black. Just my observations for my room, YMMV
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



If people are complaining about my settings not having good black levels, HDR or amazing details, then you've done something wrong. 

If anyone is near PA, I am here for another week and have my i1 Pro meter and laptop and may be willing to go to your place to personally setup my HarperVision settings and do a proper calibration?



dholmes54 said:


> All these pages on settings I've got a little lost,basically you want to send a HDR signal to the Epson and switch the Epson to SDR correct?



For my HarperVision settings, yes. 



spirithockey79 said:


> For normal Blu-ray Natural seems to be the best, and for HDR either Bright Cinema with Auto Bright (HDR 1), or if you can’t get over the whites/blacks clipping due to lack of nits on this pj you could try an HDR-to-SDR conversion which would use Digital Cinema. There is a spreadsheet link on this thread that includes good settings from users Oledurt and Dave Harper.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Mine is not HDR to SDR. It's true HDR "in" SDR (mode).



ayrton said:


> http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> I think that is everything available on this thread Posted by ht guy..
> 
> 
> 
> Have fun!!



Dang I think I need to update the settings here! I don't see my CMS and final cal I did at sale.


----------



## ac388

Hey Dave,

Too bad you are not in Hong Kong, otherwise I will come n pick you up in a heartbeat !!!

So far, your settings work out the best on my system. Maybe we share something in common besides the 5040 ... Stewart 1.3 gain screen !!!

P.S. Any chance you will try out the new Sony (under $5000) 4K projector soon ? That maybe my next target if it turns out to be good value.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

seplant said:


> If you're not seeing any ghosting with Rogue One, count yourself lucky. I can't play that one on anything but Low 3D brightness and zero 3D depth. Try the scene at the beginning where Director Krennic's ship come in for a landing. I can clearly see a double image of the ship as it flies toward the camera and then again as the wings fold up as it lands. Epson even sent me a new (not refurbished) projector because of 3D issues, and it showed ghosting in this scene as well. This is with Epson 3D glasses, 3D brightness on Low, and 3D depth at zero. Anything other than these settings increases the ghosting. I've found Rogue One to be about the worst 3D title as far as ghosting goes.


Not saying I don't see it but I was able to greatly eliminate it from the main plan where it was more distracting.
By tweaking the settings it disappeared from the scene where Krennic's ship is flying through entire screen and also ghosting of the planet disappeared at start. When the plane is landing (wings folding up) it's still a bit there. BUT I checked on my old 3d TV set and I don't have good news. Some ghosting is some scenes were there too. SO its not to blame Epson... In case of Epson setting depth, brightness and increasing screen size helped but this moves ghosting from one plan to another in case of Rogue 1, which is less noticable...


----------



## jasinviso2000

Dave Harper said:


> No you send full HDR to it, then manually select SDR mode and apply my custom gamma and settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If people are complaining about my settings not having good black levels, HDR or amazing details, then you've done something wrong.
> 
> If anyone is near PA, I am here for another week and have my i1 Pro meter and laptop and may be willing to go to your place to personally setup my HarperVision settings and do a proper calibration?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my HarperVision settings, yes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is not HDR to SDR. It's true HDR "in" SDR (mode).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dang I think I need to update the settings here! I don't see my CMS and final cal I did at sale.





> If people are complaining about my settings not having good black levels, HDR or amazing details, then you've done something wrong.
> 
> If anyone is near PA, I am here for another week and have my i1 Pro meter and laptop and may be willing to go to your place to personally setup my HarperVision settings and do a proper calibration?


How about south jersey for a Epson 4000, I know you'd like to know how Harpervision works on that!


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs Mr Harper,so you send a HDR from your player,set the Epson for SDR and use your settings or set the Epson to HDR use your settings and then set the Epson to SDR ? Sry to be so thick headed!


----------



## Hal_M

nemesis9 said:


> I'm curious as well because i'm in the market for a video player and had my eyes on this unit.


I did a firmware upgrade on the Sony X800 and, for the moment, the HDR signal seems to be consistent now. If the problem returns, I will be upgrading the HDMI cable to a certified cable. At the moment, I'm using the Visual Apex HDMI-30FTv2.0 - 30ft High Speed HDMI Cable w/ Ethernet which I don't believe is certified. Hoping the firmware upgrade did the trick, tho.


----------



## Natrix1973

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs Mr Harper,so you send a HDR from your player,set the Epson for SDR and use your settings or set the Epson to HDR use your settings and then set the Epson to SDR ? Sry to be so thick headed!


This part.

you send a HDR from your player,set the Epson for SDR and use your settings


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs natrix 1973


----------



## edoggrc51

jsil said:


> If it's in a white box with no Epson logo it's refurb. That's the way that it was done before.





TungstenBMW said:


> Based on my experience, the difference is that the new units come with the remote, batteries, and power cable. The box color was not white in my case.
> 
> The two refurbs I received were obviously used with both having dings/scratches in the outer case and the lens coatings where badly marred.
> 
> Good luck with the replacement.


My replacement unit came in a factotry box, identical to my original projector minus all the accessories. It looked new with no signs of it being a refurb. Hopefully this one last more than 38hrs.


----------



## Evan201

rmerlano said:


> I´ll look for the chart.
> What kind of source is 4k60p 12 bit color? Computer only?
> Thank you!


The Epson 5040ub has to stay under 10.2Gbps


----------



## Oledurt

Here are the settings I use for HDR...

Digital Cinema Mode
Brightness 50
Contrast 50
Color Saturation 50
Tint 50

Sharpness 5/5/5
Color Temp 4
Skin Tone 3

Customized
Offset R 48
Offset G 48
Offset B 50
Gain R 48
Gain G 61
Gain B 34

Image Preset Mode Preset 2

Power Consumption High
Auto Iris High Speed

Gamma (left to right)
0,-4,-14,-15,-14,-14,-13,0,0

RGBCMY

R 50,23,50
G 78,8,50
B 68,30,50
C 56,31,50
M 76,31,50
Y 44,29,50

Epson Super White off
Lens Iris 0

Signal--->Advanced

HDMI Video Range Expanded
Color Space Auto
Dynamic Range Auto(Bright) aka HDR 1
Image Processing Fine.

Enjoy.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

Oledurt said:


> Here are the settings I use for HDR...
> 
> Digital Cinema Mode
> Brightness 50
> Contrast 50
> Color Saturation 50
> Tint 50
> 
> Sharpness 5/5/5
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> 
> Customized
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 48
> Gain G 61
> Gain B 34
> 
> Image Preset Mode Preset 2
> 
> Power Consumption High
> Auto Iris High Speed
> 
> Gamma (left to right)
> 0,-4,-14,-15,-14,-14,-13,0,0
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 50,23,50
> G 78,8,50
> B 68,30,50
> C 56,31,50
> M 76,31,50
> Y 44,29,50
> 
> Epson Super White off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> Signal--->Advanced
> 
> HDMI Video Range Expanded
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto(Bright) aka HDR 1
> Image Processing Fine.
> 
> Enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


White screen or grey? I'm using the Cinegrey 5d grey which im sure throws a lot of your settings for a loop if you're using white. 

Your original plus side gamma with bright cinema looks great for me. Has great punch and pop with no lack of brightness on the grey screen. Lovin it for the 4k HDR Blu Rays.

Nevertheless i'm going to give these HDMI expanded settings on Digi Cin a try when I get home. With the grey screen I've not been able to tolerate the Digi Cin in the past, but will give this a try. Thanks again Ole.


----------



## Oledurt

Evan201 said:


> White screen or grey? I'm using the Cinegrey 5d grey which im sure throws a lot of your settings for a loop if you're using white.
> 
> Your original plus side gamma with bright cinema looks great for me. Has great punch and pop with no lack of brightness on the grey screen. Lovin it for the 4k HDR Blu Rays.
> 
> Nevertheless i'm going to give these HDMI expanded settings on Digi Cin a try when I get home. With the grey screen I've not been able to tolerate the Digi Cin in the past, but will give this a try. Thanks again Ole.




I have a cinewhite 125 inch 1.1 gain screen


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Some pictures showing how 5040ub handles contrast and black levels  I didn't pause the movie they were captured in motion.


----------



## Evan201

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Some pictures showing how 5040ub handles contrast and black levels


beast isn't she? 
I've been playing with -2 gamma on Bright Cinema with the R. Masciola calibration disc for dialing in black and white levels for Rec.709. Blacks look awesome!


----------



## Duddits

Dustblob number two, just 2 weeks after I got it back. This is just too much. And the stuck blue pixel is still there. Epson did not do anything about it last time it was in for service.
What does the warranty says about stuck pixels? Can not find any information regarding this.


----------



## Juiced46

Dave Harper said:


> No you send full HDR to it, then manually select SDR mode and apply my custom gamma and settings.
> 
> 
> If people are complaining about my settings not having good black levels, HDR or amazing details, then you've done something wrong.
> 
> If anyone is near PA, I am here for another week and have my i1 Pro meter and laptop and may be willing to go to your place to personally setup my HarperVision settings and do a proper calibration?


I will say it again. Kudos to you and also Oledurt for the things you are doing for these forums. Its amazing that people are complaining about FREE settings and you still offer to help in PERSON.


----------



## Juiced46

above1 said:


> I have the 5040UBe and when using it with my NVidia Shield I never experience the projector going into sleep or turning off. I can watch movies for hours and the thing stays on. When I switch it to the XB1 it always turns off after a period of time. Drives my son insane when he's playing games or watching Netflix. I can't figure out why. I even turned off sleep mode on the darn thing. This only happens with the XB1.
> 
> 
> I do have an Onkyo RZ800 that everything connects to and feed the 5040 with that.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any clue as to why this occurs? The receiver keeps playing the audio of the media I'm watching but the projector goes to sleep.
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated!


What kind of receiver?

If it is still playing sound, the projector is somehow not seeing a signal from the receiver. Its obviously not the XB1 going to sleep. I would try to bypass the receiver and see how it reacts then. Must be some sort of HDMI "handshake" issue from your receiver to the Epson if I had to guess.

I have gamed for hours and left my XB1 on for half a day on some occassions and the projector never went to sleep.

How long does it take for the projector to do this?


----------



## rman222

*Iris difference?*

Hi,
I haven't found this yet, so am asking. Is there a difference in the irises between the 5040 and the 6040? The manual indicates the 6040 has a fixed iris and implies the 5040 does not. That is in addition to the auto iris both apparently have. Can anyone address this definitively?
Thanks in advance,
Joe H


----------



## aaranddeeman

rman222 said:


> Hi,
> I haven't found this yet, so am asking. Is there a difference in the irises between the 5040 and the 6040? The manual indicates the 6040 has a fixed iris and implies the 5040 does not. That is in addition to the auto iris both apparently have. Can anyone address this definitively?
> Thanks in advance,
> Joe H


I have 6040. But I believe there is no difference in iris. Both have manual iris. 5040 owners can confirm.


----------



## Dave Harper

jasinviso2000 said:


> How about south jersey for a Epson 4000, I know you'd like to know how Harpervision works on that!



That may be a little far for the time I have remaining, sorry. I think you sent me a PM and if I'm able to swing it, I'll reply back and let you know. 



ac388 said:


> Hey Dave,
> 
> Too bad you are not in Hong Kong, otherwise I will come n pick you up in a heartbeat !!!
> 
> So far, your settings work out the best on my system. Maybe we share something in common besides the 5040 ... Stewart 1.3 gain screen !!!
> 
> P.S. Any chance you will try out the new Sony (under $5000) 4K projector soon ? That maybe my next target if it turns out to be good value.



Thanks.

Probably not the 260/285, but possibly the 360/385 I will. 



dholmes54 said:


> Thxs Mr Harper,so you send a HDR from your player,set the Epson for SDR and use your settings or set the Epson to HDR use your settings and then set the Epson to SDR ? Sry to be so thick headed!



Send HDR from the player source, then manually select SDR mode on the Epson and apply my custom gamma and other settings as listed in the links below my signature. 



Natrix1973 said:


> This part.
> 
> 
> 
> you send a HDR from your player,set the Epson for SDR and use your settings



Yes, do that and use HarperVision settings.


----------



## Azekecse

Oledurt said:


> I have a cinewhite 125 inch 1.1 gain screen
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


_*Hello Oledurt, how are you enjoying the Epson Lunette 2 curve 2:35 projector screen??? *_I have the 16:9 version and once I dialed it in utilizing your settings (thank you again for your time and efforts, it is much appreciated), in the words of my daughter, it's the "dabomb.dot.com".

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Oledurt

Azekecse said:


> _*Hello Oledurt, how are you enjoying the Epson Lunette 2 curve 2:35 projector screen??? *_I have the 16:9 version and once I dialed it in utilizing your settings (thank you again for your time and efforts, it is much appreciated), in the words of my daughter, it's the "dabomb.dot.com".
> 
> 
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> 
> 
> Azeke




I love the screen, and I am glad you are enjoying the settings that is what this is all about.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## KevinG

Dave Harper said:


> That may be a little far for the time I have remaining, sorry. I think you sent me a PM and if I'm able to swing it, I'll reply back and let you know.


I don't know if they also sent you a PM, but I think you might have confused my PM with theirs. I'm also in South Jersey, and sent you a PM, but I've got a 5040. Just to keep things clear. Now you've got two people in S. Jersey asking.  But...Spend time with your family. It's a long way from home.


----------



## Lesmor

@Oledurt
Have you moved back to using Digital Cinema?
I was under the impression you prefer your calibrated Bright Cinema settings


----------



## Dave Harper

KevinG said:


> I don't know if they also sent you a PM, but I think you might have confused my PM with theirs. I'm also in South Jersey, and sent you a PM, but I've got a 5040. Just to keep things clear. Now you've got two people in S. Jersey asking.  But...Spend time with your family. It's a long way from home.



OK thanks for clarifying! It does make it better incentive to head that way now though!


----------



## Oledurt

Lesmor said:


> @Oledurt
> 
> Have you moved back to using Digital Cinema?
> 
> I was under the impression you prefer your calibrated Bright Cinema settings




I have both. I find the colors are better and the black levels are better with digital cinema. 

The reason I switched over is because when you use the expanded video range setting with digital cinema you still get good blacks.

With bright cinema the black floor is raised, and bright cinema has a bit of red push.

If you use my digital cinema settings, and you have been using bright cinema you will find the colors will look flat.

They are very accurate, and are not undersaturated, it is just that you are used to seeing oversaturated colors. give yourself time to adjust.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## above1

Juiced46 said:


> What kind of receiver?
> 
> If it is still playing sound, the projector is somehow not seeing a signal from the receiver. Its obviously not the XB1 going to sleep. I would try to bypass the receiver and see how it reacts then. Must be some sort of HDMI "handshake" issue from your receiver to the Epson if I had to guess.
> 
> I have gamed for hours and left my XB1 on for half a day on some occassions and the projector never went to sleep.
> 
> How long does it take for the projector to do this?


Within 45 mins. I'll give it a try just hooking up the XB1 directly and see if I can replicate the issue. if not, then I have to assume it's the Onkyo RZ800. Odd thing is that it only occurs with the XB1. 


Thanks!


----------



## Lesmor

Oledurt said:


> I have both. I find the colors are better and the black levels are better with digital cinema.
> 
> The reason I switched over is because when you use the expanded video range setting with digital cinema you still get good blacks.
> 
> With bright cinema the black floor is raised, and bright cinema has a bit of red push.
> 
> If you use my digital cinema settings, and you have been using bright cinema you will find the colors will look flat.
> 
> They are very accurate, and are not undersaturated, it is just that you are used to seeing oversaturated colors. give yourself time to adjust.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Many thanks for the clarification
Your explanation of why DC might look flat makes sense and as you say time should be given to get used to whichever of your setting are used
Thanks again


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs again Mr Harper


----------



## rman222

aaranddeeman said:


> I have 6040. But I believe there is no difference in iris. Both have manual iris. 5040 owners can confirm.


Thank you for the reply.
Can someone with a 5040 confirm that model also has the fixed iris?
thanks in advance,
Joe


----------



## Juiced46

above1 said:


> Within 45 mins. I'll give it a try just hooking up the XB1 directly and see if I can replicate the issue. if not, then I have to assume it's the Onkyo RZ800. Odd thing is that it only occurs with the XB1.
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Yea it is strange. I have a similar issue but its not the projector going to sleep. Only with my X1 Xfinity Cable box. Sometimes when I switch to watch cable, I get just a black screen. I switch to another source then back to the Cable box and it works properly. It is an HDMI handshake issue I think, just not sure why. 

Have you tried turning off the sleep mode in the projector settings?


----------



## evergreek

Oledurt said:


> Here are the settings I use for HDR...
> 
> Digital Cinema Mode
> Brightness 50
> Contrast 50
> Color Saturation 50
> Tint 50
> 
> Sharpness 5/5/5
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> 
> Customized
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 48
> Gain G 61
> Gain B 34
> 
> Image Preset Mode Preset 2
> 
> Power Consumption High
> Auto Iris High Speed
> 
> Gamma (left to right)
> 0,-4,-14,-15,-14,-14,-13,0,0
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> R 50,23,50
> G 78,8,50
> B 68,30,50
> C 56,31,50
> M 76,31,50
> Y 44,29,50
> 
> Epson Super White off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> Signal--->Advanced
> 
> HDMI Video Range Expanded
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto(Bright) aka HDR 1
> Image Processing Fine.
> 
> Enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Oledurt,

Can you use these for regular 4K content without HDR? Do you use anything different for that? Thanks!!


----------



## Oledurt

evergreek said:


> Oledurt,
> 
> 
> 
> Can you use these for regular 4K content without HDR? Do you use anything different for that? Thanks!!




I use them for 4k UHD discs only.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Rpmartinez

*Atv 4khdr*

Hey Guys,
So what do you think are the chances that the new Appletv 4kHDR will have Netflix HDR compatibility with our projector?


----------



## bigabit

rpmartinez said:


> hey guys,
> so what do you think are the chances that the new appletv 4khdr will have netflix hdr compatibility with our projector?


100%


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Quick question what it gives when we set HDMI to expanded instead of Auto ?
I saw that expanded gives more brightness and @Oledurt suggests it for both his settings (Digital cinema and Bright cinema).

One more question to @Oledurt do you still use lens iris, I think you wrote somewhere that you experimented with -8 on bright cinema settings.

Thanks.


----------



## achanonier

Hi There

I have too continued exploring settings for HDR, I used Oledurt Bright cinema for a while but switched back again to natural mode.

Here is what I use at the moment if some want to try it out :

Natural Mode
Brightness 50
Contrast 52
Color Saturation 50
Tint 50

Sharpness 10/10/10
Color Temp 6500
Skin Tone 5

Image Preset Mode Preset 3

Power Consumption Eco
Auto Iris Normal

Gamma
0,16,20,24,28,32,32,32,10
Epson Super White ON
Lens Iris 0

Signal Tab
HDMI Video Range Auto
Color Space Auto
Dynamic Range Auto(Bright)
Image Processing Fine.

I used R Masciola's pattern to check black and white clipping and it's perfect, it clippes at 1000 nits and everything above ref balck is visible while ref black is the blackest possible.
It's very bright even with eco mode and very dynamic !

I'll appreciate feedback if some of you guys test thoses settings. (FYI : I'm using a gain 1 screen 2m wide in a lit controled environnement)


----------



## ht guy

slackmack said:


> Is anyone using an anamorphic lens with the 5040 with or w/o a video processor, & if so how? Just trying to figure out if my lens will now be useless. I figure if I keep my Lumagen XD (no 3D, no 4k) I can still do 2.35 scaling for 1080i/p material, and use the other (HDCP 2.2) HDMI port for UHD blu-ray bypassing the XD. Alternatively I could just remove the XD & the lens & just use zoom, I guess. Question is whether I loose a noticeable amount of video processing if I loose the Lumagen XD as compared to the 5040's native video processing. Any suggestions?


The Oppo 203 will do vertical stretch (but no horizontal squeeze) so if you can move your lens (manually or motorized) the Oppo will work.

That worked for me until I realized I had other sources (primarily AppleTV and Shield) that also would be playing 235 content - so I returned the 5040 and got the 6040.

The Oppo does have an input that has had some audio sync issues (and no HDR.) From what I understand, the audio sync is fixed/better depending on the input device, so it depends on your needs. If it is strictly/primarily the DVD player output that you need stretched, the Oppo works great!


----------



## philipbtz

bigabit said:


> 100%


How do you know it will support 24Hz 4:2:2. I bet we'll need a Linker. Apple is usually not on top of these kind of things.


----------



## Kelvin1000

Azekecse said:


> Yes I loaded ver 1.10, now I'm able to switch activities without any HDMI glitches, so far so good. I will provide any status updates when applicable.
> 
> 
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> 
> 
> Azeke




Any news regarding the what's new with the 1.10 firmware version?

Thanks!


----------



## burton14e7

carp said:


> Hmm I wonder what's up with that because your screen and sitting distance isn't that much different than mine...
> 
> I have heard that some people don't notice SDE effect nearly as much as others so maybe that's what's going on?


Maybe we've just identified I'm getting old and my eyes are aging.


----------



## Rpmartinez

philipbtz said:


> How do you know it will support 24Hz 4:2:2. I bet we'll need a Linker. Apple is usually not on top of these kind of things.


Yeah, I should have actually asked if anything has been mentioned on the ATV5 that states it supports 24Hz 4:2:2


----------



## Evan201

Kelvin1000 said:


> Any news regarding the what's new with the 1.10 firmware version?
> 
> Thanks!


I would also like to hear the updates on Firmware 1.10. Currently on 1.09


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Oledurt said:


> I use them for 4k UHD discs only.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


What do you do when you switch to something like a regular bluray? I'm having trouble wrapping my head around how to set up my projector for multiple video types. I made some setting changes when I was watching a HDR movie a few weeks ago that I found here on the forum. When I exited the movie and started watching a normal bluray through Kodi, everything was orange.

Do you switch between formats, like Digital Cinema for HDR and Bright Cinema for regular blurays?

Thanks!


----------



## kodt

Spyderturbo007 said:


> What do you do when you switch to something like a regular bluray? I'm having trouble wrapping my head around how to set up my projector for multiple video types. I made some setting changes when I was watching a HDR movie a few weeks ago that I found here on the forum. When I exited the movie and started watching a normal bluray through Kodi, everything was orange.
> 
> Do you switch between formats, like Digital Cinema for HDR and Bright Cinema for regular blurays?
> 
> Thanks!


Use the Memory function, save the Digital Cinema calibration settings for HDR under a memory slot. Then use a different setting for regular Blurays. You will have to manually change the mode depending if you are watching HDR or SDR content. You might want to make sure your Dynamic Range setting is set to Auto, or Auto (Bright) otherwise it may still be in HDR mode when you go back to SDR, and it is going to look weird.


----------



## Azekecse

Kelvin1000 said:


> Any news regarding the what's new with the 1.10 firmware version?
> 
> Thanks!


Kelvin 1K, the only basis I have is what I personally experience with ver 1.10, I have no insight with what the new version provides. It would be nice if Epson provided firmware release notes, but alas...

Update: Turned on the projector and got the blinking lamp light, I unplugged the projector for ~30sec., then plugged it back in, and the projector starting working again .

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## carp

burton14e7 said:


> Maybe we've just identified I'm getting old and my eyes are aging.


Right there with you...


----------



## nwbearcat21

Do you see any issues running this projector using a 50ft hdmi cable from my receiver?


----------



## Evan201

Ok, what the hell is this after firmware update to 1.10? This sucks! The blue and black bars cover everything. Confirmed updated in version menu. What the hell? 
When switching to a different device connected to the receiver it fades to black but then comes back to the bars. Also when the receiver is totally off I see these bars.
Never had a problem updating firmware for 1.08 or 1.09. This is concerning.


----------



## Kelvin1000

I did the update with no problems...
Maybe try the update again?


----------



## Evan201

Kelvin1000 said:


> I did the update with no problems...
> Maybe try the update again?


Holy crap literally just after I read your message and emailed epson about the issue it just disappeared. Massive relief.


----------



## reechings

So for gaming on this projector, are you able to send it 1080p/HDR/60Hz and use the 4K enhancement to make it look better or no?

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


----------



## marco1975

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Quick question what it gives when we set HDMI to expanded instead of Auto ?
> Thanks.


If u going to calibrate your TV/projector to Rec.709/2020 standard, there shoudn,t be any advantage in using (expaneded) there are two different standard Limited and Expanded
Video material such as blu-ray/tv program elc. all use the Limited standard, Expanded are more used for pc. and games.


----------



## ac388

It must be a big relief for you. But what's the improvement ???



Evan201 said:


> Holy crap literally just after I read your message and emailed epson about the issue it just disappeared. Massive relief.


----------



## Lesmor

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Quick question what it gives when we set HDMI to expanded instead of Auto ?
> I saw that expanded gives more brightness


This article suggests that Epson Projectors should be selected to enhanced

http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration/hdmi-black-levels-xvycc-rgb

If you use a Spears & Munsil test disc and use Normal below black is clipped
Expanded lets you see below black bars

I find that using Expanded with the on screen top and bottom bars, the black looks to be elevated


----------



## Dave Harper

Lesmor said:


> This article suggests that Epson Projectors should be selected to enhanced
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration/hdmi-black-levels-xvycc-rgb
> 
> 
> 
> If you use a Spears & Munsil test disc and use Normal below black is clipped
> 
> Expanded lets you see below black bars
> 
> 
> 
> I find that using Expanded with the on screen top and bottom bars, the black looks to be elevated



Do you recalibrate?


----------



## marco1975

Lesmor said:


> This article suggests that Epson Projectors should be selected to enhanced
> 
> http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration/hdmi-black-levels-xvycc-rgb
> 
> If you use a Spears & Munsil test disc and use Normal below black is clipped
> Expanded lets you see below black bars
> 
> I find that using Expanded with the on screen top and bottom bars, the black looks to be elevated


That is because u trying to send a signal below black by choosing Expanded, unless u going to re-calibrate your gamma after choosing Expanded, the black is going to be washed/elevated as u can see.
Movies/tv programs use (Limited) a video range from 16-235, It considers levels below 16 to be black, and information above 235 is white, A calibrated Tv/pj. will never display anything below 16 as anything other than black. pc./games use (Epxanded) a range from 0-255.
The best thing i would suggest is that to leave that option to (Auto)
here is an artical that has very good information about this subject:
https://referencehometheater.com/2014/commentary/rgb-full-vs-limited/


----------



## Evan201

ac388 said:


> It must be a big relief for you. But what's the improvement ???


Honestly no idea what improvements have been made through the new update yet.


----------



## Lesmor

Dave Harper said:


> Do you recalibrate?


I dont have the gear
My post was just for general discussion and information for the OP which is why I said the article "suggests"


----------



## Oledurt

I use expanded for 4k UHD only


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## john barlow

Kelvin1000 said:


> I did the update with no problems...
> Maybe try the update again?


I gotta ask you before I do my firmware update. I never did the first one but, yesterday, I downloaded the software on to a thumb drive. Have you discovered what the update did as far as improvements in either PQ or functionality. I'd like to have some idea what we're getting into here, especially this convoluted way of doing the upgrade. My PJ is on a shelf on the back wall, I'll have to move the projector and it's zeroed in perfectly. Damn. I'm going to draw lines around where the feet are, so I remember where to place her after the upgrade. I'm also plugging in a USB extender, so I don't have to move the PJ again. What did you notice with the update, if you don't mind sharing please?


----------



## Juiced46

Azekecse said:


> Kelvin 1K, the only basis I have is what I personally experience with ver 1.10, I have no insight with what the new version provides. It would be nice if Epson provided firmware release notes, but alas...
> 
> Update: Turned on the projector and got the blinking lamp light, I unplugged the projector for ~30sec., then plugged it back in, and the projector starting working again .
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


My Epson 5025 used to do this. 



reechings said:


> So for gaming on this projector, are you able to send it 1080p/HDR/60Hz and use the 4K enhancement to make it look better or no?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


It looks like you can with PS4 Pro. You can do 1080p/HDR but not sure about 60hz. I have tried with Xbox One S and cannot get HDR with 1080p.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Evan201 said:


> Holy crap literally just after I read your message and emailed epson about the issue it just disappeared. Massive relief.


My Wild guess:
For update when you pushed the USB flash drive into the projector (or the USB cable if connecting to computer), you may have dislodged the HDMI cable a tiny bit.
It worked now (like some magic), but it has a potential to come back. If it does, just re-sit the cable.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Evan201 said:


> Honestly no idea what improvements have been made through the new update yet.


Intermittent "Blue" screen improvement...


----------



## inspector

Evan201 said:


> I would also like to hear the updates on Firmware 1.10. Currently on 1.09


Just emailed Epson about that, waiting for response.


----------



## DrNorm

*best 4k HDR streamer to use with the 5040*

I just got this PJ a week ago and am blown away. Currently, only watching 1080 streaming content but about to make the hyperjump to 4k.

However, the discussions in the Streaming forum often don't take into account the "no 4k HDR @ 60Hz" limitations of the 5040. I know this has been discussed in the 260 pages of earlier posts, but there are so many comments/answers on this subject (in this forum and others)... all I've done is get really, really confused.

SO, as I now understand it, the 5040 can accept a 4k signal but only supports 4k HDR @ 24Hz or 30Hz. 4k/60 Hz is too much bandwidth and not supported.

Now, in general, 4k/HDR streaming options appear to be: 

*TiVo Bolt* (which is what I currently have. It does not stream Amazon Prime in 4k HDR.
*Roku 4 series*. It does stream Netflix/Amazon Prime and others but outputs @ 60Hz (not sure if it can downconvert?)
*Samsung 4k BD-DVR* (at Costco). THis will stream Netflix and Amazon is in 4k HDR but not sure how fast/user friendly it is compared to Bolt/Roku. I almost purchased this today instead of a Roku Premiere+ but decided to wait and see if it works with this PJ. I believe some have recommended this player and mentioned that it CAN downconvert a 60Hz signal to 24Hz?
*NVidia Shield* This gets mentioned a lot in this forum and appears capable of 24Hz output for 4k HDR signal. I went to the NVidia site to check it out but couldn't really tell. It looked more "gamer" oriented- and it's pricey? There are a lot of pros/cons discussed about this box in the Shield thread on the Streaming forum.
 *X Box S* (or maybe the S?). This box is mentioned frequently in this forum but I think it is often being discussed in terms of "how to make it work"? It sure seems to do everything, though?
I also need to add the latest version of *Apple TV 4k* just announced- but I haven't had a chance to review the specs and see if it is appropriate for and will play nicely with the 5040.
 *Chromecast Ultra*? Another box them "seems" to do it all.

What I have learned is that some streaming services, like Amazon Prime, only stream 4k HDR only at 60Hz so without the proper box, we really can't take advantage of these streams with this PJ? (can watch with 4k but not HDR. although, at this point it's hard to even know if that matters?). Also, not all of these boxes are appropriate for the 5040 since it can't handle 4k HDR @ 60Hz. That's a potential problem for the Roku and perhaps the Chromecast and AppleTV, as well?


I didn't plan to buy a 4k DVD player as I have no access to 4k discs. No one rents them and I just don't buy discs as I rarely re-watch movies. However, the Samsung and X Box S provide one.

I could really use some advice/guidance navigating this mess to find the "best" streaming device to use with the 5040 (which, BTW, is a completely different question than "what is the BEST streamer?" And that ). 99.9% of my use is either DVR'd stuff from the Bolt (evening news, Late Show, etc.) or streaming programs from Netflix and Amazon. I would ideally like to have the "best" image source available from those services and not have multiple boxes all of which do basically the same thing. (using one "just" for Netflix, another just for Amazon, another just for DVR, etc.)

For me, "best" just means simple and reliable- but also capable. My TiVo Bolt actually does work reasonably well, although it doesn't support 4k from Amazon ((in SDR or HDR, for now, at least. I have tried to find out if this is coming down the line but no answer). 

I have had a Roku 3 for some time, so am familiar with it and just purchased (but have not yet opened) a Roku P+. It's not yet clear to me whether the Roku will even work with this PJ for 4k HDR (at least, from Amazon). The Roku manual says it will "choose the best output match for your display device" but does not specifically say that it will downcnvert a 60Hz stream to 24Hz- my guess is, it will simply not "show" you that the 60Hz stream is even available since your device can't display it). I actually wonder if for $100 more, the Samsung 4k player would be "better" option than a Roku? (albeit, with limited 4k channels- but the channels I watch, so that's all that really matters)

I realize these are a lot of questions but trying to combine problems of dealing with 4k/HDR content and limitations of what this projector can do superimposed on all the idiosyncrasies of the various streaming boxes.

This article discusses most of these boxes (https://www.theverge.com/circuitbre...4/apple-tv-roku-amazon-fire-best-4k-streaming) but, as I said, I'm looking for the best box to use with THIS projector, given its signal bandwidth limitations (from not being true 4k).


----------



## azula

DrNorm said:


> I didn't plan to buy a 4k DVD player as I have no access to 4k discs. No one rents them and I just don't buy discs as I rarely re-watch movies.




I just bought this PJ (still in the box) and I have a TON of questions but first I will try to help where I can, LOL. 


http://www.store-3d-blurayrental.com/category-s/1868.htm


----------



## DrNorm

*4k disc rentals*



azula said:


> http://www.store-3d-blurayrental.com/category-s/1868.htm


wow- I had no idea! THANKS for the link.

(of course I barely watch the DVD's I get from Netflix, anymore. Streaming is just so much more convenient)


----------



## Dave Harper

Lesmor said:


> I dont have the gear
> 
> My post was just for general discussion and information for the OP which is why I said the article "suggests"



I'm not talking about a full ISF calibration. I meant just the basics like brightness, contrast, color, tint, sharpness, etc. that you can set using easy to find cheap discs like Spears & Munsil, Disney WOW, etc.


----------



## marco1975

have had the projector for less then a week now , and all of the sudden while watching a movie, i got the blue+orange flashing error(projector malfunctioned) luckly unplugging the outlet and plugging it again have solved the problem, but with a quite many users having these issues it makes me wonder if there has been enough quality control from epson...


----------



## Lesmor

Dave Harper said:


> I'm not talking about a full ISF calibration. I meant just the basics like brightness, contrast, color, tint, sharpness, etc. that you can set using easy to find cheap discs like Spears & Munsil, Disney WOW, etc.


My mistake Dave
When you said "do you recalibrate" I took that to mean ISF calibration rather than adjust settings

So yes I adjusted contrast and brightness using a S&M disc but left colour. tint sharpness as it was

I only used HDMI video range>Expanded for SDR and only for a short test period, before moving back to HDMI video range>Normal


----------



## Natrix1973

DrNorm, 

I can tell you the Shield TV will do Amazon Prime at 4k HDR if you set the output of the Shield to 4k @ 24Hz. I don't have the 4k Netflix plan so I can't comment on that.


----------



## Juiced46

Regarding the 1.10 Firmwareupdate. This is the response I received from Epson support.

"Thank you for contacting us regarding your HomeCinema 5040UB. My name is Courtney and I am with Epson Advanced Product support.

Our product developers unfortunately don't release official public notes on firmware updates for our products. I can say the most recent update to v1.10 did not include any image quality or menu adjustment options or improvements. It fixed a small bug in the OS you may or may not have noticed with the home screen briefly going blank when the unit is powered on. The issue only occurred on a very small number of units.

Should you require further assistance, please reply to this e-mail. If you have a different support issue, submit a request via our Support Site and we will respond in a timely manner."


----------



## welldun

Juiced46 said:


> Regarding the 1.10 Firmwareupdate. This is the response I received from Epson support.
> 
> "Thank you for contacting us regarding your HomeCinema 5040UB. My name is Courtney and I am with Epson Advanced Product support.
> 
> Our product developers unfortunately don't release official public notes on firmware updates for our products. I can say the most recent update to v1.10 did not include any image quality or menu adjustment options or improvements. It fixed a small bug in the OS you may or may not have noticed with the home screen briefly going blank when the unit is powered on. The issue only occurred on a very small number of units.
> 
> Should you require further assistance, please reply to this e-mail. If you have a different support issue, submit a request via our Support Site and we will respond in a timely manner."


Thanks for sharing that bit of info. 
I've spoken with Courtney at Epson in the past, he's been helpful and open during our conversations, and is pretty knowledgeable about their products. He is usually the person that you would end up speaking with once your question or issue was escalated to a senior tech.


----------



## Evan201

aaranddeeman said:


> My Wild guess:
> For update when you pushed the USB flash drive into the projector (or the USB cable if connecting to computer), you may have dislodged the HDMI cable a tiny bit.
> It worked now (like some magic), but it has a potential to come back. If it does, just re-sit the cable.


I had the HDMI cable completely out when doing the firmware update. Then reconnected but you may be right. Maybe something was slightly dislodged. Not sure but all is well now.


----------



## Evan201

DrNorm said:


> I just got this PJ a week ago and am blown away. Currently, only watching 1080 streaming content but about to make the hyperjump to 4k.
> 
> However, the discussions in the Streaming forum often don't take into account the "no 4k HDR @ 60Hz" limitations of the 5040. I know this has been discussed in the 260 pages of earlier posts, but there are so many comments/answers on this subject (in this forum and others)... all I've done is get really, really confused.
> 
> SO, as I now understand it, the 5040 can accept a 4k signal but only supports 4k HDR @ 24Hz or 30Hz. 4k/60 Hz is too much bandwidth and not supported.
> 
> Now, in general, 4k/HDR streaming options appear to be:
> 
> *TiVo Bolt* (which is what I currently have. It does not stream Amazon Prime in 4k HDR.
> *Roku 4 series*. It does stream Netflix/Amazon Prime and others but outputs @ 60Hz (not sure if it can downconvert?)
> *Samsung 4k BD-DVR* (at Costco). THis will stream Netflix and Amazon is in 4k HDR but not sure how fast/user friendly it is compared to Bolt/Roku. I almost purchased this today instead of a Roku Premiere+ but decided to wait and see if it works with this PJ. I believe some have recommended this player and mentioned that it CAN downconvert a 60Hz signal to 24Hz?
> *NVidia Shield* This gets mentioned a lot in this forum and appears capable of 24Hz output for 4k HDR signal. I went to the NVidia site to check it out but couldn't really tell. It looked more "gamer" oriented- and it's pricey? There are a lot of pros/cons discussed about this box in the Shield thread on the Streaming forum.
> *X Box S* (or maybe the S?). This box is mentioned frequently in this forum but I think it is often being discussed in terms of "how to make it work"? It sure seems to do everything, though?
> I also need to add the latest version of *Apple TV 4k* just announced- but I haven't had a chance to review the specs and see if it is appropriate for and will play nicely with the 5040.
> *Chromecast Ultra*? Another box them "seems" to do it all.
> 
> What I have learned is that some streaming services, like Amazon Prime, only stream 4k HDR only at 60Hz so without the proper box, we really can't take advantage of these streams with this PJ? (can watch with 4k but not HDR. although, at this point it's hard to even know if that matters?). Also, not all of these boxes are appropriate for the 5040 since it can't handle 4k HDR @ 60Hz. That's a potential problem for the Roku and perhaps the Chromecast and AppleTV, as well?
> 
> 
> I didn't plan to buy a 4k DVD player as I have no access to 4k discs. No one rents them and I just don't buy discs as I rarely re-watch movies. However, the Samsung and X Box S provide one.
> 
> I could really use some advice/guidance navigating this mess to find the "best" streaming device to use with the 5040 (which, BTW, is a completely different question than "what is the BEST streamer?" And that ). 99.9% of my use is either DVR'd stuff from the Bolt (evening news, Late Show, etc.) or streaming programs from Netflix and Amazon. I would ideally like to have the "best" image source available from those services and not have multiple boxes all of which do basically the same thing. (using one "just" for Netflix, another just for Amazon, another just for DVR, etc.)
> 
> For me, "best" just means simple and reliable- but also capable. My TiVo Bolt actually does work reasonably well, although it doesn't support 4k from Amazon ((in SDR or HDR, for now, at least. I have tried to find out if this is coming down the line but no answer).
> 
> I have had a Roku 3 for some time, so am familiar with it and just purchased (but have not yet opened) a Roku P+. It's not yet clear to me whether the Roku will even work with this PJ for 4k HDR (at least, from Amazon). The Roku manual says it will "choose the best output match for your display device" but does not specifically say that it will downcnvert a 60Hz stream to 24Hz- my guess is, it will simply not "show" you that the 60Hz stream is even available since your device can't display it). I actually wonder if for $100 more, the Samsung 4k player would be "better" option than a Roku? (albeit, with limited 4k channels- but the channels I watch, so that's all that really matters)
> 
> I realize these are a lot of questions but trying to combine problems of dealing with 4k/HDR content and limitations of what this projector can do superimposed on all the idiosyncrasies of the various streaming boxes.
> 
> This article discusses most of these boxes (https://www.theverge.com/circuitbre...4/apple-tv-roku-amazon-fire-best-4k-streaming) but, as I said, I'm looking for the best box to use with THIS projector, given its signal bandwidth limitations (from not being true 4k).


100% buy the Nvidia Shield TV. Best streaming device on the market for the Epson. You will not be unhappy about spending the extra money. It's phenomenal paired with this Epson. 4k HDR with amaon, netflix, and stunning youtube 4k 60p. The best thing about the shield is being able to lock out the color and refresh rates to better suit the epson display needs.


----------



## DrNorm

Evan201 said:


> 100% buy the Nvidia Shield TV. Best streaming device on the market for the Epson.


Is judder a problem with the Shield with 4k source "downconverted" to 24Hz?

This device may be a no-go for me because it does not have an optical or digital audio output and only 1 HMDI output. That means "must" get a new AVR which adds substantially to this device's already high cost.

What I don't understand is NVIDIA support site discusses how to connect Shield to a PJ ("just connect an HMDI cable") but then doesn't address what you do about audio/AVR. It does discuss, "If you're using SHIELD TV with a separate AV receiver" but doesn't mention how you would do that (with only 1 output) (splitter? no way).

Of course, the Roku Ultra and Tivo both DO have dig optical outs, but if they only play 4k titles @ 60Hz (so what you are getting is only the 1080p signal... then there is really no point in trying to watch 4k content on them, either?

I hooked my Bolt directly to my PJ and now browsing Netflix title with known 4k content does show "4k Ultra HD" as the source code. When playing a 4k title or just an HD title from Netflix, the PJ info screen shows a "4k source @ 60Hz, SDR 4:2:0". THe Bolt must be upconverting even 1080p to 4k @ 60Hz (which the Epson can handle- just not 60Hz + HDR?).

If my Bolt does "as good as it gets" and does have an optical out, then there is really no reason to add any other streaming box? Only advantage to Shiled, I think, is that it can do 4k + HDR which it down-converts to 24Hz to allow the Epson to handle the input bandwidth.


----------



## shamwow

Evan201 said:


> 100% buy the Nvidia Shield TV. Best streaming device on the market for the Epson. You will not be unhappy about spending the extra money. It's phenomenal paired with this Epson. 4k HDR with amaon, netflix, and stunning youtube 4k 60p. The best thing about the shield is being able to lock out the color and refresh rates to better suit the epson display needs.


I agree on the Shield - been most consistent for me with HDR content. Haven't found any devices that can do YouTube HDR with the Epson, HDR seems disabled on YouTube on most streamers except Chromecast and Chromecast Ultra doesn't provide the 24p output that the Shield does. Best HDR luck I've had is Shield for movies (Netflix/Prime/Plex) and PS4 Pro for games (1080p output, HDR, upscaled = pretty tasty). The contributions by Dave Harper and Oledurt on this forum for HDR settings are most appreciated. All that said, SDR looks mighty fine on this projector as well.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Re:4K HDR streaming devices compatible with 5040 what about the Panasonic UB900 UHD Blu-ray player that includes streaming for Amazon, Netflix and YouTube can it do 4K HDR streaming for any or all of these with the 5040?


----------



## reechings

shamwow said:


> I agree on the Shield - been most consistent for me with HDR content. Haven't found any devices that can do YouTube HDR with the Epson, HDR seems disabled on YouTube on most streamers except Chromecast and Chromecast Ultra doesn't provide the 24p output that the Shield does. Best HDR luck I've had is Shield for movies (Netflix/Prime/Plex) and PS4 Pro for games (1080p output, HDR, upscaled = pretty tasty). The contributions by Dave Harper and Oledurt on this forum for HDR settings are most appreciated. All that said, SDR looks mighty fine on this projector as well.


Interesting about the PS4 Pro with 1080P HDR upscaled. Does it make it look a lot sharper compared to just staying at 1080p? I am interested in playing PC games with this projector and if the enhancement looks good then it might be worth it where you could run the latest and greatest games with all eye candy turned on at 1080P HDR without breaking the bank for a video card that could handle outputting 4K.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


----------



## djb61230

DrNorm said:


> Is judder a problem with the Shield with 4k source "downconverted" to 24Hz?


Judder is a problem when watching upconverted 1080p 60Hz content. What I mean by that is if the the Shield is connected at 4k24Hz to this projector, and I use an app like Vue or Sling, there will be Judder as the Shield tries to down convert as you say. Personally I don't do this very much but if I do I just switch the Shield to 1080p and its fine. I usually connect it at 4k24Hz because content from Amazon and Netflix are best with the Shield with the devices at my disposal. And of course the Shield plays my Movie library fine because those files generally are at 24Hz. I ordered the ATV 4k today so next week I'll be able to see if it has judder too.


----------



## Aurylian

Just came from picking up some Atmos speakers from my HT dealer. Thinking hard about retiring my 60" plasma for something larger that uses less energy. 6040ub looks like a winner for what I need. My room has average amount of windows, but all have blinds or blackout curtains that make it dark for movies. Any reason not to pull the trigger or wait for something else? The faux-k image was as good as my eyes could see at large screen size so I'm not sure what I would gain from true 4k. I haven't seen Dolby Vision yet, but hear the improvement in a projector setup is likely minimal.

Also, I am planning on mounting the screen myself and mounted my old plasma. I am a bit leery of mounting and setting up the projector correctly. Should I pay the bucks and have a pro do it or is it simpler than I think?


----------



## OMXP

How can I get 4k from xbox one s and let's say apple tv 4k to my epson 9300w
through my onkyo avr?

will a linker solve this problem by connecting it between my avr and pj?
And for the audio of xbox and atv4k! how can I get it from the avr, I don't want to use optical cables, should I look for a new 4k avr?


thanks


----------



## NetViper

Oledurt said:


> I use them for 4k UHD discs only.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


What do you use for SDR 1080p?


----------



## Hal_M

NetViper said:


> What do you use for SDR 1080p?


I'm loving Oledurt's Digital Cinema 4k HDR setting. Watched THE REVENANT and LEON and they never looked this good at any other settings I've tried. Far and away the best picture I've seen so far on the 5040. The color IS a little desaturated compared to all the other settings I've tried, but I'm giving myself time to get used to that (per Oledurt's suggestion) and am really enjoying the subtle, more naturalistic qualities of the color at this setting. I'm wondering what is closest to the "intended" picture and if there is a way to find that out. What it looked like in the cinema. What the HDR timers intended for the disc. When I put on the BLADE RUNNER 4k HDR disc, it looked incredible AND I found myself wanting to push the saturation just a little. But I don't know if that's from years of watching the film on Blu-ray with more saturation than was intended. Anyone have any thoughts on this? And has anyone else been using Oledurt's Digital Cinema settings? Would love to hear your thoughts. I highly recommend giving them a go if you haven't. 

I feel a little bad setting the lamp mode to HIGH, but I have to admit that it's yielding the best image yet. I can justify the slight fan noise elevation and shortening the life of the bulb if I'm enjoying the image at its best. 

And like NetViper above, I'd also love to know what 1080P SDR settings you're using, Oledurt. If you're happy with them, that is. 

I also think I'm gonna run out and see the theatrical presentation of the CLOSE ENCOUNTERS 4K restoration so that I can check color saturation levels with the 4K Blu-ray at Oledurt's Digital Cinema settings. IF I decide to up the saturation a bit, would that simply be raising the COLOR a few notches, or going into the RGBY settings and tweaking them there?


----------



## jwhn

Evan201 said:


> 100% buy the Nvidia Shield TV. Best streaming device on the market for the Epson. You will not be unhappy about spending the extra money. It's phenomenal paired with this Epson. 4k HDR with amaon, netflix, and stunning youtube 4k 60p. The best thing about the shield is being able to lock out the color and refresh rates to better suit the epson display needs.




I agree it's the best after trying nearly all of them. I do not get Netflix in both 4K and HDR, however. I believe it's an issue with the Netflix app. Amazon works fine. Can you confirm you are getting 4K and HDR with Netflix (e.g. By posting a screenshot)?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DrNorm

*why 24Hz as "default" if it is not needed for majority of sources*



djb61230 said:


> I usually connect it at 4k24Hz because content from Amazon and Netflix are best with the Shield with the devices at my disposal.


I think I am finally figuring out all these permutations of 1080/4k/SDR/HDR/24Hz/60Hz....

you said you generally just use the Shield with 4k/24hz. output.... and agree there are some judder issue. But it allows you to watch a 4k HDR source. 

The 5040 absolutely can handle a 4k/60Hz signal (with a 4:2:0 [SDR]) but NOT when that signal is also in HDR (4:4:4 color) which adds additional metadata which is just too much data for the HDMI chipset to handle. (I wasn't quite clear on this at the beginning of this thread).

What the 5040 CAN'T is handle a 4k/60Hz video stream that is ALSO encoded for HDR. BUT, you can down-convert this 60Hz signal to 24Hz and then the 5040 can indeed handle the 4k + HDR datastream. However, when those HDR signals are down-converted and "stripped" out of the HDR data, the image can then be displayed but appears too dark (for some) on the 5040 (without a lot of tweaking. Many good recommendations throughout this thread). It sounds like this is an issue primarily for 4k BD DVD players.

so, my comment/question to you would be this: there is still very little content in HDR available for streaming (to my understanding?) but there is certainly a lot of 4k stuff. Now, Amazon and Netflix both stream their 4k content, natively @ 60Hz. Since the 5040 can absolutely handle the 4k/60Hz/SDR signal, why would you routinely watch those "processed" signals @ 24Hz when you are "losing" info for no good reason?

Of course, this assumes that you "know" the the source is in SDR or HDR? I still haven't figured out how to determine that in either Netflix or Amazon? Titles in Netflix show the [Ultra HD] badge but I have yet to see anything about HDR. Same with Amazon. Still, it seems that unless you "need" to have the 24hz setting "in place" just so your PJ can "inform" your streaming box "which" streams it is capable of supporting?

What I mean is that, if you browse Netflix with the Shield set to 4k/60Hz/HDR output enabled (even though we know that the 5040 won't support that), do you get a different set of results than if you browse with "max of 4k/60Hz/SDR"? Perhaps Netflix isn't even showing me the HDR option since it "knows" that I can't support it? (since max supported resolution in my TiVo video settings is 4k/60Hz/SDR or 1080p/60Hz/HDR. (this, of course, begs the question, can I force Netflix to display programs as 1080p so that I could watch them in HDR- if available in 1080/60/HDR?) That was certainly true with Ultra HD. It seemed that there is no way to know if a title was available in 4k as well as 1080 before I upgraded my system to be HDCP 2.2 compliant. Before that, even though I had a 4k capable source and AVR, the AVR was only HDCP 2.0 and when I browsed Netflix, the [Ultra HD] badge never appeared- only the [HD] badge. After the upgrade, those same titles now show as [Ultra HD] encoded. 

the problem with all of this is that you have to "know" the specs of what you are about to watch and THEN set your system to the "best" settings. 

*But*, if you were going to just have a default mode - wouldn't it be better to be 4k/60Hz, which would probably be appropriate for 90% of what you watch... but you could possibly miss some 4k shows which are also in HDR..... but you wouldn't have unnecessary processing and possible judder (from 24Hz) in that same 90%? I honestly don't know the best answer, here. 

chart below is from page 1 of this thread


----------



## DrNorm

jwhn said:


> I do not get Netflix in both 4K and HDR, however. I believe it's an issue with the Netflix app. Amazon works fine. Can you confirm you are getting 4K and HDR with Netflix?


if it's true the there is no HDR from Netflix, then that makes an even stronger argument against setting your video source to output a 24Hz signal as you default- especially if you are streaming from Amazon or Netflix, where (as I understand it) 4k content streams @ 60Hz?

it is very easy to talk yourself in circles on this topic.


----------



## ruggercb

Replacement 5040 with A lens all dialed in. 3840x1600 pc res. So happy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

DrNorm said:


> if it's true the there is no HDR from Netflix, then that makes an even stronger argument against setting your video source to output a 24Hz signal as you default- especially if you are streaming from Amazon or Netflix, where (as I understand it) 4k content streams @ 60Hz?
> 
> 
> 
> it is very easy to talk yourself in circles on this topic.



Netflix does stream HDR. It just can't seem to do both HDR and 4K. Only 1 or the other. Amazon can stream both HDR and 4K at 24Hz. This is in reference to the Nvidia Shield and may be different with other streaming devices.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DrNorm

jwhn said:


> Netflix does stream HDR. It just can't seem to do both HDR and 4K. Only 1 or the other. Amazon can stream both HDR and 4K at 24Hz. This is in reference to the Nvidia Shield and may be different with other streaming devices.


that's for clearing that up. Super confusing. The fact that I haven't found an easy way to see if a title is available in HDR (or 4k, for that matter, as I noted above- you only "see" versions you can play) it's hard to know what you're missing.

Also, as I said, if you are watching a 4k stream that is NOT in HDR, then it would seem that watching it at 60Hz would be better than 24Hz. But that would mean going to your box's settings menu and changing it for virtually every video. I know that many already use saved settings for an "SDR setting" and an "HDR setting" so maybe many of you are already doing that.

super annoying since it would be ideal if you could just turn everything on and have it work without all the tweaking (never...gonna...happen!!)


----------



## jwhn

DrNorm said:


> that's for clearing that up. Super confusing. The fact that I haven't found an easy way to see if a title is available in HDR (or 4k, for that matter, as I noted above- you only "see" versions you can play) it's hard to know what you're missing.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, as I said, if you are watching a 4k stream that is NOT in HDR, then it would seem that watching it at 60Hz would be better than 24Hz. But that would mean going to your box's settings menu and changing it for virtually every video. I know that many already use saved settings for an "SDR setting" and an "HDR setting" so maybe many of you are already doing that.
> 
> 
> 
> super annoying since it would be ideal if you could just turn everything on and have it work without all the tweaking (never...gonna...happen!!)



I find it's generally better in 24hz as that is what most content is shot in and I find the judder problem a bit worse in 60hz. But with the Nvidia shield, you must set it to 60hz to watch Netflix 4K. No choice there.

Also, for what it's worth I have programmed my remote to automatically switch between 24 and 60 so it's not too painful.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nemesis9

Hal_M said:


> I'm loving Oledurt's Digital Cinema 4k HDR setting. Watched THE REVENANT and LEON and they never looked this good at any other settings I've tried. Far and away the best picture I've seen so far on the 5040. The color IS a little desaturated compared to all the other settings I've tried, but I'm giving myself time to get used to that (per Oledurt's suggestion) and am really enjoying the subtle, more naturalistic qualities of the color at this setting. I'm wondering what is closest to the "intended" picture and if there is a way to find that out. What it looked like in the cinema. What the HDR timers intended for the disc. When I put on the BLADE RUNNER 4k HDR disc, it looked incredible AND I found myself wanting to push the saturation just a little. But I don't know if that's from years of watching the film on Blu-ray with more saturation than was intended. Anyone have any thoughts on this? And has anyone else been using Oledurt's Digital Cinema settings? Would love to hear your thoughts. I highly recommend giving them a go if you haven't.
> 
> I feel a little bad setting the lamp mode to HIGH, but I have to admit that it's yielding the best image yet. I can justify the slight fan noise elevation and shortening the life of the bulb if I'm enjoying the image at its best.
> 
> And like NetViper above, I'd also love to know what 1080P SDR settings you're using, Oledurt. If you're happy with them, that is.
> 
> I also think I'm gonna run out and see the theatrical presentation of the CLOSE ENCOUNTERS 4K restoration so that I can check color saturation levels with the 4K Blu-ray at Oledurt's Digital Cinema settings. IF I decide to up the saturation a bit, would that simply be raising the COLOR a few notches, or going into the RGBY settings and tweaking them there?


How loud is it on high mode? I really want to grab this pj but loud fan noise worries me.. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


----------



## DrNorm

jwhn said:


> But with the Nvidia shield, you must set it to 60hz to watch Netflix 4K. No choice there.


Once again thanks for the great insight to your experience with the Shield.

Why wouldn't you be able to down-sample the Netflix 4k stream to 24Hz? I thought that was kinda the whole point of using the Shield? Netflix 4k is streamed at 60Hz and that is what I have been watching it at. But if it is also HDR, then it has to be D-S'd to 24Hz to watch? How/why is that different than non-HDR stuff being viewed @ 24Hz? (this is when all the different variables (resolution/frame rate/color space) start to interact and get very confusing)

What is your experience and set-up with Amazon for 4k and 4k/HDR streams? (or 1080 HDR streams, for that matter).

Many people have commented that they would rather watch a 1080 image in HDR than a 4k image in SDR. I have not been able to get anything in HDR (and not really sure why- except I don't think the TiVo Bolt will convert a 60Hz source to 24Hz, so that rules out 4k sources and I'm not sure how to "force" a 1080p source?) so I still have no opinion on this.


----------



## mb1985

*Can these projectors suffer from image burn?*

Just what the title says. Anyone use thier projectors for games or tv watching? I know some channels have logo brands on the bottom right and they stay there forever , can they burn the image on the lens?


----------



## raf77

Not on lens, but not sure how about LCD panels...


----------



## jwhn

DrNorm said:


> Once again thanks for the great insight to your experience with the Shield.
> 
> 
> 
> Why wouldn't you be able to down-sample the Netflix 4k stream to 24Hz? I thought that was kinda the whole point of using the Shield? Netflix 4k is streamed at 60Hz and that is what I have been watching it at. But if it is also HDR, then it has to be D-S'd to 24Hz to watch? How/why is that different than non-HDR stuff being viewed @ 24Hz? (this is when all the different variables (resolution/frame rate/color space) start to interact and get very confusing)
> 
> 
> 
> What is your experience and set-up with Amazon for 4k and 4k/HDR streams? (or 1080 HDR streams, for that matter).
> 
> 
> 
> Many people have commented that they would rather watch a 1080 image in HDR than a 4k image in SDR. I have not been able to get anything in HDR (and not really sure why- except I don't think the TiVo Bolt will convert a 60Hz source to 24Hz, so that rules out 4k sources and I'm not sure how to "force" a 1080p source?) so I still have no opinion on this.



I don't believe you can get HDR at 60hz on this projector. So to watch HDR you must get to 24hz. The Shield allows one to do so.

Then you will be able to watch Amazon in both HDR and 4K (at the same time).

And you will be able to watch Netflix in HDR (but not 4K). Why no 4K? You will have to ask Netflix. I've called them about it and the people answering calls have no clue.

I just keep the Shield at 24hz unless I'm watching sports. Works fine but with the one Netflix limitation. 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## marco1975

nemesis9 said:


> How loud is it on high mode? I really want to grab this pj but loud fan noise worries me..
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


iam also very sensitive to fan noise, and i speak from my own experience with this projector, having it on a shelf 2-feet behind me and high close to the ceiling, in Ecco mode and cinema/digital cinema, its realy whisper quiet, but in High mode its very loud and i found it to be bothersome, however even in Ecco mode, i personaly find this projector to be on the bright side.


----------



## djb61230

DrNorm said:


> Why wouldn't you be able to down-sample the Netflix 4k stream to 24Hz? I thought that was kinda the whole point of using the Shield? Netflix 4k is streamed at 60Hz and that is what I have been watching it at. But if it is also HDR, then it has to be D-S'd to 24Hz to watch? How/why is that different than non-HDR stuff being viewed @ 24Hz? (this is when all the different variables (resolution/frame rate/color space) start to interact and get very confusing)


Yes it is confusing and I wish it just worked. It's still early days though and the root of the problem of course is the 5040ub cannot handle 18Gbps over HDMI. So the Shield is doing the best it can do with the display, and unfortunately the user needs to know what source is doing what. Hey the new SONY projectors can do 18Gbps but the low end one is still 2x the cost of the 5040ub.

To confuse things a bit more, I bought the Shield not for the video, but for the audio. At the time it was the only box that would bitstream ATMOS and the higher end audio formats when most boxes just support DD5.1. So my Plex library is played with the best quality I could give it.

On the down shifting from 60Hz to 24Hz - I think all it is doing is picking which 36 frames to throw out each second. To me that is why there is judder. I'm not an expert as I've never coded a video player - just a guess.


----------



## Juiced46

mb1985 said:


> Just what the title says. Anyone use thier projectors for games or tv watching? I know some channels have logo brands on the bottom right and they stay there forever , can they burn the image on the lens?


I have never seen an issue with image burn gaming on projectors. I have thousands of hours combined gaming on multiple projectors and never experienced any type of image burn issue.


----------



## Juiced46

MartyMcFlyy said:


> 1080p HDR. The advantage of using HDR is much more apparent than higher resolution only especially if you push image enhancement to 4 or 5 it looks already razor sharp.


I had some time yesterday and downloaded a few demos for the PS4 Pro that were HDR. HDR in 1080p looks amazing. I was messing with a few things and I am undecided if I like it better using no 4K image enhancement and FI on normal, or 4K enhancement ON with no FI. I feel with 4K-E off and FI on Normal it seems like the framerate is a bit smoother.


----------



## ChadS13TDI

Hey guys and gals. So my original PJ had it's power supply fail and Epson sent out a replacement unit last week and we sat down to watch some movies last night and noticed this blob on the image. It would be different colors at times but was sort of "burned" into the image. 


Is this dust on the lens? can anyone shed some light on what I am dealing with here? I will be calling Epson back on Monday.


I am pretty frustrated and disappointed so far with the 5040. I am expecting to have to send this one back too. 


IMG_0924 by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr


----------



## OMXP

How can I get 4k from xbox one s and let's say apple tv 4k to my epson 9300w
through my onkyo avr?

will a linker solve this problem by connecting it between avr and pj?
And for the audio of xbox and atv4k! how can I get it from the avr, I don't want to use optical cables, should I look for a new 4k avr?


thanks


----------



## GeneHT

mb1985 said:


> Just what the title says. Anyone use thier projectors for games or tv watching? I know some channels have logo brands on the bottom right and they stay there forever , can they burn the image on the lens?


I don't know about LCD projectors but I use to see it a lot on LCD flat panels where a bright business logo was left in the center of the screen on the desk top when not being used for other things.


----------



## Hal_M

marco1975 said:


> iam also very sensitive to fan noise, and i speak from my own experience with this projector, having it on a shelf 2-feet behind me and high close to the ceiling, in Ecco mode and cinema/digital cinema, its realy whisper quiet, but in High mode its very loud and i found it to be bothersome, however even in Ecco mode, i personaly find this projector to be on the bright side.


I have the projector ceiling mounted above my head and cannot hear it in ECO or MEDIUM modes, personally. In HIGH mode, I can hear it, but not to a level that distracts me. In fact, I only really notice that it's loud when I turn it off and then I realize that it was making more noise than I thought. For me and where I have the projector in my room, it's really not an issue. I only use HIGH mode for the 4K HDR Digital setting and, so far, the image quality of that has been worth it. That said, I'm also gonna be experimenting with tweaking some of those settings in MEDIUM mode to see how close I can get to the image I now have in HIGH. 

Would love to know what settings folks are using for 1080P SDR.


----------



## Juiced46

OMXP said:


> How can I get 4k from xbox one s and let's say apple tv 4k to my epson 9300w
> through my onkyo avr?
> 
> will a linker solve this problem by connecting it between avr and pj?
> And for the audio of xbox and atv4k! how can I get it from the avr, I don't want to use optical cables, should I look for a new 4k avr?
> 
> 
> thanks


Buy a new AVR


----------



## Duddits

ChadS13TDI said:


> Hey guys and gals. So my original PJ had it's power supply fail and Epson sent out a replacement unit last week and we sat down to watch some movies last night and noticed this blob on the image. It would be different colors at times but was sort of "burned" into the image.
> 
> 
> Is this dust on the lens? can anyone shed some light on what I am dealing with here? I will be calling Epson back on Monday.
> 
> 
> I am pretty frustrated and disappointed so far with the 5040. I am expecting to have to send this one back too.
> 
> 
> IMG_0924 by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr


That is dust on one of the panels. Try high lamp mode and high altitude for a while. Maybe it can go away, but this is the real dealbreaker for this projector.


----------



## mb1985

*what to adjust for best 3d settings?*

where are your settings at for best 3d viewing? less ghosting


----------



## sddp

mb1985 said:


> where are your settings at for best 3d viewing? less ghosting


MartyMcFlyy had posted this a week ago, not sure what post number, I just saved the email as I'll used as well. Here's what he wrote:


"Hi Guys,

I am posting settings that will improve 3d experience based on hours of tests:

3d mode: dynamic
3d brightness: medium
power consumption: medium
brightness: 50
3d depth: 1
diagonal screen size 140 inch

Enjoy!

This improves 3d in the main plan of action where most of action takes place.

Let me know what you think."


----------



## seplant

sddp said:


> MartyMcFlyy had posted this a week ago, not sure what post number, I just saved the email as I'll used as well. Here's what he wrote:
> 
> 
> "Hi Guys,
> 
> I am posting settings that will improve 3d experience based on hours of tests:
> 
> 3d mode: dynamic
> 3d brightness: medium
> power consumption: medium
> brightness: 50
> 3d depth: 1
> diagonal screen size 140 inch
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> This improves 3d in the main plan of action where most of action takes place.
> 
> Let me know what you think."


3D Brightness should be set to Low to minimize ghosting. You will also need to play around with the 3D Depth setting to see what works best for you. A setting of zero seems to work best for me.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!! (Still need to keep 3D Brightness on Low)


----------



## Hal_M

So I've been using Oledurt's Digital Cinema HDR settings. I love them. Only tweak I need to make is to the color. Not adding saturation, but on my projector (assuming it's a bit different from projector to projector), these settings are quite green/blue making faces look pretty sallow. Is there a calibration disc or a recommended way I can tweak these settings to get more accurate color representation? I've been doing it by eye and have come closer, but in my experiments, I have also lost some of the other qualities I like about Oledurt's settings. What are people using to get the color balance right/more accurate to it's intended palette?


----------



## TreyKC

I've sifted through this thread for a while and can't seem to find "Oledurt's Digital Cinema HDR settings". Can someone please add a link or repost please?

Thanks!


----------



## carp

ChadS13TDI said:


> Hey guys and gals. So my original PJ had it's power supply fail and Epson sent out a replacement unit last week and we sat down to watch some movies last night and noticed this blob on the image. It would be different colors at times but was sort of "burned" into the image.
> 
> 
> Is this dust on the lens? can anyone shed some light on what I am dealing with here? I will be calling Epson back on Monday.
> 
> 
> I am pretty frustrated and disappointed so far with the 5040. I am expecting to have to send this one back too.
> 
> 
> IMG_0924 by ChadS99SVT, on Flickr



Having owned Epsons in the past I've very familiar with them when it comes to getting a replacement. The first replacement is for sure a refurbished unit that has issues. Call Epson again and tell them the issue (dust blob) and they will send out another unit. That one has less of a chance of having issues, but it still might. Keep doing it until they send you a good one. I know it's ridiculous, but that has been my experience. With my old 8350 I had a total of 6 of that model sent to me over the course of 2 years. When you get your next 5040 make sure to put up computer text to see if the whole screen focuses at the same time. That's a big issue too, I had multiple 3500's that had to be sent back because of that problem.


----------



## Juiced46

jdbarnes63 said:


> So my power supply is failing, the unit will turn on and play for 20-30 minutes then turn completely off, no lights, no standby mode. I called Epson support and gave them my info, they said it appeared to be the power supply issue. The rep had me email my receipt to them to verify the purchase date. I purchased from Amazon on June 11th this year, from Hawthorne, new unit. The Epson rep informed me that I am not eligible for the 2 year warranty and to contact Hawthorne. They said that only "Amazon, LLC" units are warrantied by Epson. Amazon being the great company that they are, I started a chat session. I explained to the rep what Epson was doing and they had no problem with me returning the unit for a full refund, 90 days after the purchase date. Amazon could not send me a replacement unit and also did not understand why Epson will not honor the warranty. So in the end Amazon came through for me when Epson failed me. I really like my Epson 5040UB, I think the picture quality and the memory functions are great. Having a failed power supply that appears to be a design defect based on the number of posters this has happened to does not give me confidence in the brand. I could understand Epson not warranting the product from sellers that sell below Manufactures Suggested Retail or shady EBAY sellers but not established Amazon sellers. I may decide to give the 5040UB another try or move onto JVC, either way, I will contact the company first to make sure who I buy from is what they call "Authorized" by them. Do we know when the next Epson sale price will go up?


Amazon is very good with stuff like this. I do not blame Epson on denying you your warranty though. Even though you bought it from Amazon, it was sold through a non Authorized Epson seller. Epson will only warranty products sold by Authorized sellers. The unit you received could have been a B stock, Refurb that was not disclosed, etc etc. When you see a price lower then the normal, chances are they are not authorized. Also, just because the seller is an "established seller" if they are not authorized, it is what it is. Its usually worth paying the extra few hundred bucks and going with an authorized seller. Especially something that is priced the way these projectors are. 

When I was about to purchase my projector I considered going through the Ebay route or online non authorized sellers. After getting the run around from multiple places that "claim" these units are under warranty, even though they are not authorized sellers. I decided to do it the right way, spend a little more $$ now, it will save headaches in the future in the event something goes wrong. Plus Epson has always been good to me with warranty issues.


----------



## Dave Harper

DrNorm said:


> Is judder a problem with the Shield with 4k source "downconverted" to 24Hz?
> 
> 
> 
> This device may be a no-go for me because it does not have an optical or digital audio output and only 1 HMDI output. That means "must" get a new AVR which adds substantially to this device's already high cost.
> 
> 
> 
> What I don't understand is NVIDIA support site discusses how to connect Shield to a PJ ("just connect an HMDI cable") but then doesn't address what you do about audio/AVR. It does discuss, "If you're using SHIELD TV with a separate AV receiver" but doesn't mention how you would do that (with only 1 output) (splitter? no way).
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, the Roku Ultra and Tivo both DO have dig optical outs, but if they only play 4k titles @ 60Hz (so what you are getting is only the 1080p signal... then there is really no point in trying to watch 4k content on them, either?
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked my Bolt directly to my PJ and now browsing Netflix title with known 4k content does show "4k Ultra HD" as the source code. When playing a 4k title or just an HD title from Netflix, the PJ info screen shows a "4k source @ 60Hz, SDR 4:2:0". THe Bolt must be upconverting even 1080p to 4k @ 60Hz (which the Epson can handle- just not 60Hz + HDR?).
> 
> 
> 
> If my Bolt does "as good as it gets" and does have an optical out, then there is really no reason to add any other streaming box? Only advantage to Shiled, I think, is that it can do 4k + HDR which it down-converts to 24Hz to allow the Epson to handle the input bandwidth.






djb61230 said:


> Yes it is confusing and I wish it just worked. It's still early days though and the root of the problem of course is the 5040ub cannot handle 18Gbps over HDMI. So the Shield is doing the best it can do with the display, and unfortunately the user needs to know what source is doing what. Hey the new SONY projectors can do 18Gbps but the low end one is still 2x the cost of the 5040ub.
> 
> 
> 
> To confuse things a bit more, I bought the Shield not for the video, but for the audio. At the time it was the only box that would bitstream ATMOS and the higher end audio formats when most boxes just support DD5.1. So my Plex library is played with the best quality I could give it.
> 
> 
> 
> On the down shifting from 60Hz to 24Hz - I think all it is doing is picking which 36 frames to throw out each second. To me that is why there is judder. I'm not an expert as I've never coded a video player - just a guess.






jwhn said:


> I don't believe you can get HDR at 60hz on this projector. So to watch HDR you must get to 24hz. The Shield allows one to do so.
> 
> Then you will be able to watch Amazon in both HDR and 4K (at the same time).
> 
> And you will be able to watch Netflix in HDR (but not 4K). Why no 4K? You will have to ask Netflix. I've called them about it and the people answering calls have no clue.
> 
> I just keep the Shield at 24hz unless I'm watching sports. Works fine but with the one Netflix limitation.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



60 to 24Hz is not "down-converting" anything. The source material is native 24Hz already, so when it is at 60Hz, it's actually adding interpolated frames that aren't in the original. It's not the other way around.


----------



## Craig Peer

This coming Wed. the 20th - Epson has a one day sale on the 5040ub and ube projectors - $200.00 off list and Epson will send you a $200.00 gift card to boot ! Just FYI !


----------



## ChadS13TDI

Duddits said:


> That is dust on one of the panels. Try high lamp mode and high altitude for a while. Maybe it can go away, but this is the real dealbreaker for this projector.



Thank you for the tip. I did try this all day yesterday while watching football and unfortunately it did not shake it loose.



jdbarnes63 said:


> So my power supply is failing, the unit will turn on and play for 20-30 minutes then turn completely off, no lights, no standby mode. I called Epson support and gave them my info, they said it appeared to be the power supply issue. The rep had me email my receipt to them to verify the purchase date. I purchased from Amazon on June 11th this year, from Hawthorne, new unit. The Epson rep informed me that I am not eligible for the 2 year warranty and to contact Hawthorne. They said that only "Amazon, LLC" units are warrantied by Epson. Amazon being the great company that they are, I started a chat session. I explained to the rep what Epson was doing and they had no problem with me returning the unit for a full refund, 90 days after the purchase date. Amazon could not send me a replacement unit and also did not understand why Epson will not honor the warranty. So in the end Amazon came through for me when Epson failed me. I really like my Epson 5040UB, I think the picture quality and the memory functions are great. Having a failed power supply that appears to be a design defect based on the number of posters this has happened to does not give me confidence in the brand. I could understand Epson not warranting the product from sellers that sell below Manufactures Suggested Retail or shady EBAY sellers but not established Amazon sellers. I may decide to give the 5040UB another try or move onto JVC, either way, I will contact the company first to make sure who I buy from is what they call "Authorized" by them. Do we know when the next Epson sale price will go up?



I don't know how many we have had in this thread it seems like maybe only a half dozen which seems very small % wise, but it does seem like a trend that could be emerging. I usually don't find myself part of the trends but this time I am. Mine was about 3 months old and had about 200hrs on it when it failed. 



carp said:


> Having owned Epsons in the past I've very familiar with them when it comes to getting a replacement. The first replacement is for sure a refurbished unit that has issues. Call Epson again and tell them the issue (dust blob) and they will send out another unit. That one has less of a chance of having issues, but it still might. Keep doing it until they send you a good one. I know it's ridiculous, but that has been my experience. With my old 8350 I had a total of 6 of that model sent to me over the course of 2 years. When you get your next 5040 make sure to put up computer text to see if the whole screen focuses at the same time. That's a big issue too, I had multiple 3500's that had to be sent back because of that problem.



Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. I called again this morning exactly 1 week from the last call for the previous defective unit and they are sending another one.....He said that he "requested a new unit" but we'll see if a new one shows up. not holding my breath. At least they overnight the unit's which is nice, and this one is at least still usable unlike the last one with the power supply failure.


----------



## Hal_M

Just wanted to let folks know that I went back in and re-entered Oledurt's Digital Cinema HDR settings as I wasn't sure why faces were looking a bit sallow on some titles. After re-entering Oledurt's settings, something changed. I must have had something dialed in wrong because now colors are spot on. 

My bad. 

After watching several films with these Digital settings, it's hard to watch regular 1080p or even non HDR content. Oledurt's Digital settings are incredibly rich and deep. 

I tried it against Oledurt's Bright Cinema settings and HarperVision. Both had their pros and Oledurt's Bright Cinema definitely gave his own Digital Cinema a run for its money, (HarperVision was a bit too bright and too saturated for my taste, though it looked more like what I think people expect and even what I might default to without comparison), but in the end, Oledurt's Digital Cinema settings just made everything pop in just the right way. I did raise the brightness and saturation by 5 points each, but those are the only settings I adjusted and it's a spectacular image. Yes, it's darker than many people are used to and the colors not as "vibrant," but I believe it's more natural and only seems dark when I compare it directly with brighter, warmer settings. 

I watched THE SHALLOWS last night (ridiculous film, but beautiful to look at) and only Oledurt's Digital Cinema HDR setting brought out the richness of the water and the mountains. Oledurt warned that it would take some time for my eyes to adjust to these settings. Now that they have, I'm a convert.


----------



## roland6465

I finally have some time off from work and was able to try Oledurt's HDR settings on Ghostbusters (2016). I must say that the picture was much improved from my previous HDR setting of gathering info from this forum and tweaking to my eye, and even sitting right under the 6040, medium fan wasn't an issue.


----------



## Hal_M

roland6465 said:


> I finally have some time off from work and was able to try Oledurt's HDR settings on Ghostbusters (2016). I must say that the picture was much improved from my previous HDR setting of gathering info from this forum and tweaking to my eye, and even sitting right under the 6040, medium fan wasn't an issue.


Were you using his Bright Cinema settings or his more recent Digital Cinema settings? I prefer the Digital, personally, though it requires the Epson to be on HIGH. Still, I don't really notice the fan noise when the movie is on and it's worth it for me with what I find to be an improved picture.


----------



## Hal_M

TreyKC said:


> I've sifted through this thread for a while and can't seem to find "Oledurt's Digital Cinema HDR settings". Can someone please add a link or repost please?
> 
> Thanks!


Here they are:

Oledurt's settings. 

Digital Cinema Mode
Brightness 50
Contrast 50
Color Saturation 50
Tint 50

Sharpness 5/5/5
Color Temp 4
Skin Tone 3

Customized
Offset R 48
Offset G 48
Offset B 50
Gain R 48
Gain G 61
Gain B 34

Image Preset Mode Preset 2

Power Consumption High
Auto Iris High Speed

Gamma (left to right)
0,-4,-14,-15,-14,-14,-13,0,0

RGBCMY

R 50,23,50
G 78,8,50
B 68,30,50
C 56,31,50
M 76,31,50
Y 44,29,50

Epson Super White off
Lens Iris 0

Signal--->Advanced

HDMI Video Range Expanded
Color Space Auto
Dynamic Range Auto(Bright) aka HDR 1
Image Processing Fine.


----------



## azula

Hey Guys! 


What settings are everyone using for non HDR material such as 4K SDR and 1080p?


----------



## inspector

azula said:


> Hey Guys!
> 
> 
> What settings are everyone using for non HDR material such as 4K SDR and 1080p?






...and 3D Cinema and 3D Bright Cinema


----------



## marco1975

azula said:


> Hey Guys!
> 
> 
> What settings are everyone using for non HDR material such as 4K SDR and 1080p?


(Natural mode) with the color temp. set to (7000) should be the most accurate and the closest to Rec709. that is for (SDR 1080P) out of the box, and that is according to many pro. reviewers and their measurments, i would assume u could also use the same mode for (4K -SDR.) since all of the 4k -SDR. out there that i have seen use Rec709
personaly -to my eyes it looks accurate


----------



## Hal_M

I'm guessing from what I've been reading and experiencing, that the HDMI Video Range settings do not save to memory. I have to go back in and change them every time I switch modes. Minor hassle. Debating whether to manually switch modes each time or try and dial in my contrast and brightness settings in Cinema mode to compensate for the Expanded Video mode I have it set to for Digital Cinema HDR. Any chance HDMI Video Range will be able to Save to Memory in a firmware upgrade?


----------



## Dave Harper

jdbarnes63 said:


> Thanks for the info Craig, the $200 sale price is a great price, now with the extra $200 gift card (takes 30 days to get in) makes this a bargain. I just ordered from John at Projector People, should have in this Friday.



If @Craig Peer gave you the sale tip and you wanted to thank him, you should've ordered it from him!


----------



## ht guy

azula said:


> Hey Guys!
> 
> 
> What settings are everyone using for non HDR material such as 4K SDR and 1080p?



This summary includes some options.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Anyone using this ceiling mount with their 5040/6040?


Crimson JR Projector Mount (Black)​
Just placed an order for a 5040 from ProjectorPeople who are including it for free, wondering if it's okay/safe or if I need to cough up $$ for a Chief.


----------



## Metric

$2499 with a $200 gc at bb today - not sure whether to jump or wait.


----------



## wontwa

WynsWrld98 said:


> Anyone using this ceiling mount with their 5040/6040?
> 
> 
> Crimson JR Projector Mount (Black)​
> Just placed an order for a 5040 from ProjectorPeople who are including it for free, wondering if it's okay/safe or if I need to cough up $$ for a Chief.


I'm using this (also got it free from Projector People), and wondered the same. Working great, and I've had to take the projector down once and swap it out due to a power supply issue - no problems whatsoever. I'd imagine if the projector didn't do lens shift I'd want to go for the Chief, but so far so good.


----------



## robber616

Metric said:


> $2499 with a $200 gc at bb today - not sure whether to jump or wait.


I decided to order Epson today , almost buy jvc or Sony but the more I read about hdr......... non projector under $25k able to do true 4k hdr because lumens output .......


----------



## reechings

Metric said:


> $2499 with a $200 gc at bb today - not sure whether to jump or wait.


Man i wish i was in the states. Best deal in Canada i have seen so far is $3500 CDN all in delivered to my door and no gc  

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


----------



## jdbarnes63

Metric said:


> $2499 with a $200 gc at bb today - not sure whether to jump or wait.


Metric, the sale price and gift card are for today only, so if you are thinking about the 5040 today would be the day. Order online and save the tax, just make sure they are "authorized EPSON retailers".


----------



## Juiced46

Dave Harper said:


> If @Craig Peer gave you the sale tip and you wanted to thank him, you should've ordered it from him!


To be completely honest. I have seen Craig post alot in here, but I did not know he was a retailer.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Metric said:


> $2499 with a $200 gc at bb today - not sure whether to jump or wait.


Wait for what? No replacement announced at CEDIA and a killer price, a total no brainer 😁

An Epson 5050 will likely be announced at CEDIA Sept 2018 then give it close to a year for firmware updates so it stabilizes then can upgrade to it.


----------



## Juiced46

WynsWrld98 said:


> Wait for what? No replacement announced at CEDIA and a killer price, a total no brainer 😁





Metric said:


> $2499 with a $200 gc at bb today - not sure whether to jump or wait.


I agree, you probably will not see a better deal anytime soon. Maybe Black Friday? But that is a stretch. I would not get it from Best Buy since you will get hit with tax. There are plenty of other Authorized retailers offering this same deal with no tax and Free 2 day shipping.


----------



## Juiced46

So I have a small rant about this projector and want to see what your guys thoughts are on it. 

First let me start off by saying that I am happy with this projector. I have been an Epson projector customer for about 7-8 years now and will continue to buy them in the future when it is time to upgrade again. 

My rant is, I feel like I was sort of mislead on the purchase of this projector. Epson advertises this projector as "HDR" compatible but in their description on their website it does not speak of any limitations. The limitations I am speaking of is no 18gbps support. I game alot on an Xbox One S and rarely on a PS4 Pro. 4K works but no HDR when gaming on the Xbox One S as we all know ( I found this out after I bought the PJ), which was a big reason why I purchased this projector. HDR works on the PS4 Pro but only in 1080p output mode of the PS4. We know that the Xbox One S does 4K/24 HDR in Blu Ray mode, but not in gaming. Some will argue and say the issue is within the Xbox not being able to change the signal etc etc. Which I agree partially. The PS4 Pro can do it, but like stated only in 1080p resolution. 

With the upcoming Xbox One X coming, which does 4k/60 HDR, there will be no chance for me to get this working on this projector. Also I am unsure if the new system will do like the PS4 does and let you run HDR in 1080p mode. I have not seen any literature about that specific option yet. 

I have read some rumors on these forums that the 5040 chipset is 18gbps capable, but capped at 10gbps. Is that true at all or is it indeed not a 18gbps chip? If it is 18gbps, is it possible to be functional in a firmware update? I just feel that this aspect of the projector is sort of "false advertisement" Unless there is some document I missed FROM Epson NOT the forum that states this, then I will eat my words and move on and be happy with what I have. When I initially bought the 5040, I thought I would be able to do 4K/HDR with gaming. 

Yes, I did research before purchasing. To be honest, the 4K/HDR stuff is new to me. I read some stuff, I understood alittle bit about it but it totally did not set into my brain until I actually had my hands on the PJ. Then while using it and testing it, I understood. 

With that being said. I know a few of you will say "You should have researched, read the forums, you are SOL, stop crying etc etc" Thats fine, I can deal with that. But on the flip side. Do you really think that everyone who is buying a projector searches 300 pages of a thread to get every little detail and make sense of it? That is a bit of a stretch in my opinion. 

I was looking at upgrading my projector. I saw 4K (which I know is Faux 4K) and HDR. Figured "OK this will go nice with the HDR games I play on Xbox One S" Well I was very wrong. I do not see anything on Epsons site about limitations etc, just that it is 4K and "HDR Compatible"

This is how Epson advertises it directly from their site.

"HDR compatible — enjoy HDR content, with an extremely wide range of brightness levels for images bursting with real-life color"

Are my thoughts totally in the wrong here or do I have a right to be just slightly upset about this and that the HDR portion of it is False Advertisement?


----------



## Dave Harper

Juiced46 said:


> To be completely honest. I have seen Craig post alot in here, but I did not know he was a retailer.



Yeah I figured that. He works for AV Science, who are dealers for many brands. Mike Garrett also works for them. I used to and wish I still did!


----------



## aaranddeeman

Juiced46 said:


> This is how Epson advertises it directly from their site.
> 
> "HDR compatible — enjoy HDR content, with an extremely wide range of brightness levels for images bursting with real-life color"


Yeah. They forgot to add the fineprint

_* Only when using Oledurt or HarperVision settings._


----------



## Dave Harper

aaranddeeman said:


> Yeah. They forgot to add the fineprint
> 
> 
> 
> _* Only when using Oledurt or HarperVision settings._



True!

They also need fine print along with my settings here because I don't think what's posted will give a true representation of what it really looks like because my CMS settings aren't listed. 

I just emailed the buyer of mine that I did the awesome final calibration on before I shipped it and he said he wiped the projector (so I couldn't get the settings!) because he isn't into PQ really and just wanted it for games! 

If anyone wants to send me their 5040/6040UB to get some good CMS numbers again, let me know!


----------



## Juiced46

Dave Harper said:


> True!
> 
> They also need fine print along with my settings here because I don't think what's posted will give a true representation of what it really looks like because my CMS settings aren't listed.
> 
> I just emailed the buyer of mine that I did the awesome final calibration on before I shipped it and he said he wiped the projector (so I couldn't get the settings!) because he isn't into PQ really and just wanted it for games!
> 
> If anyone wants to send me their 5040/6040UB to get some good CMS numbers again, let me know!


I cannot believe he wiped the settings!

Come to CT and calibrate mine, dinner on me


----------



## Dave Harper

Juiced46 said:


> I cannot believe he wiped the settings!
> 
> 
> 
> Come to CT and calibrate mine, dinner on me



Is the flight from HI and a hotel on you too? If you'd have asked last week, I was in PA and may have been able to oblige.


----------



## JustAnEE

Finally jumped on this. Upgrading my 5020ub that I got 18 months ago for $960. (Hopefully worth it between the two).

Projector People for no tax. Expecting $500 from Citi price match for $1800 net cost. And then hopefully recoup most of my money from my 5020...

The problem I'm seeing as I look further is the mess still involved with generating a signal the unit will like for 4k HDR. And then it looks like if I get the Nvidia shield TV that's another $200. And then the bigger cost is that won't work with my speaker system (only Dolby Digital Plus with Netflix on shield TV). So, I'd then have to buy a receiver and maybe a separate sub (I have been using a Z5500 system). $$$$ Adding up more than I planned.

Or maybe I'll instead get a phillips BDP7501 for $120. But then I'll have to start buying UHD discs .

It looks like that blu ray player includes netflix streaming. I am unsure after going through lots of the thread -- Should the netflix through the Phillips player be UHD and 4K -- Or just UHD or 4k (pick one)?

I could conceivably use the BDP7501 and this (https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072), and take that optical output right to my sound system for netflix? Or would netflix not play well on the phillips? Or would it still only output DD+ from the phillips? Anyone with experience with it?


----------



## ac388

HE WIPED IT ... That's bad news for me !!! Your settings still look very good on my system , except I was waiting for that last missing piece !!!!!!!!!!!!!






Dave Harper said:


> True!
> 
> They also need fine print along with my settings here because I don't think what's posted will give a true representation of what it really looks like because my CMS settings aren't listed.
> 
> I just emailed the buyer of mine that I did the awesome final calibration on before I shipped it and he said he wiped the projector (so I couldn't get the settings!) because he isn't into PQ really and just wanted it for games!
> 
> If anyone wants to send me their 5040/6040UB to get some good CMS numbers again, let me know!


----------



## bombertodd

Ordered a 5040ub from Mike Garrett today.


----------



## Hal_M

Dave Harper said:


> True!
> 
> They also need fine print along with my settings here because I don't think what's posted will give a true representation of what it really looks like because my CMS settings aren't listed.
> 
> I just emailed the buyer of mine that I did the awesome final calibration on before I shipped it and he said he wiped the projector (so I couldn't get the settings!) because he isn't into PQ really and just wanted it for games!
> 
> If anyone wants to send me their 5040/6040UB to get some good CMS numbers again, let me know!


If anyone has created their own CMS settings for Harpervision specs that are really working for you, please share. 

And hoping you get to revisit a 5040 again, Dave! I really look forward to trying out those settings!


----------



## Lesmor

Juiced46 said:


> Are my thoughts totally in the wrong here or do I have a right to be just slightly upset about this and that the HDR portion of it is False Advertisement?


I totally agree with everything that you say
Nowadays it appears to be acceptable for marketing to be economical with the truth but if they claim a product can do HDR that is what you would expect it to do
But it is always in how it is worded "HDR Compatible" what does that really mean?

I always think back to when TV's were marketed as "HD Ready" but failed to disclose that they were only 720P and could never do Full 1080P HD

Marketing also have the habit of selling on features based on future firmware updates which may or may not work without issues.

I also waited 6 months before buying this projector in the hope any shortcomings would be revealed but as always it seems to happen after purchase.
I also take issue with the professional reviewers who fail to mention obvious limitations perhaps due to advertising revenue they dont give unbiased reviews.
Because Sales are their bread and butter dealers are just as bad 
Thats my rant over


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

few HDR pictures from Passengers 4K (bright cinema settings):


----------



## BlueTip

Azekecse said:


> Yes I loaded ver 1.10, now I'm able to switch activities without any HDMI glitches, so far so good. I will provide any status updates when applicable.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Bump! Any concrete details or additional observations on firmware 1.10/1.04?


----------



## Hal_M

Does anyone have a recommendation on an HDMI splitter that sends all appropriate signals to the 5040? 

My receiver doesn't pass through 4K, so I have to hook my 4k Blu-ray player directly to the PJ. Problem is, I also have a Roku and a PS3 which means I'm constantly switching the HDMI cable to the Epson from one device to another. It's just a matter of time before I wear something out. 

Obviously looking for something that will pass through both 4K and 3D. I noticed some splitters only pass through 4K at 30Hz. Is there one that will pass through the signal without compromising it?


----------



## jdbarnes63

Hal, the 4300H will work fine with the Epson 5040UB. Now with the price drops it is a really good bargain for what you get


----------



## Chris the Rock

*Time To Sit Back and Enjoy the Show*

Good day, fellow enthusiasts. I'd like to share something with you all. This might win "longest post in the thread". It's not meant to start an argument, or to pit people against one another. And after this post, I probably won't be visiting this thread very often any more.

*TL;DR:* For those who don't want to read it all, skip to the end. I'll summarize. 

For the months since I purchased my Epson 6040, I've visited this thread almost every day, ever since my first experience playing a UHD disc on my brand new Oppo 203, with the default Digital Cinema settings with "Auto" HDR2. Like many of you, I found the image to be much too dim, and was very disappointed - and it led me here. I followed along, reading every post since the very first, and have learned a great deal. 

I don't contribute much, but I have been a beneficiary of the information and experiences that have been shared. I've taken a couple of breaks, mostly when I've been out of town. Last week, I went on vacation and didn't "check in" a single time. It was nice.

After I came back, I looked at the latest posts, and saw that Oledurt - one of the most prolific contributors to the discussion -
had posted that he had gone back to using the Digital Cinema mode, and had re-posted his calibrated settings. I copied them down and took some time to give them a try, with the proper expectation that the colors would seem less saturated. I entered the settings in, ran through the R. Masciola test patterns to double check the results against the Brightness, Contrast, and Color Bar patterns. I made some slight adjustments based on my theater environment, lowering the brightness a couple ticks, raising the contrast and color saturation just a hair. Just as a side note, when looking at the contrast pattern, I noticed a tiny bit of greenish/bluish hue in the white flashing patterns, leading me to the conclusion that - as Oledurt has stated many times - the CMS settings that were applied to his projector in his room won't necessarily be perfect for everyone's projector in everyone's room. 
After entering and confirming the settings, I proceeded to check them out with demo material from a movie that I'm familiar with: Batman vs Superman.

I fired up my favorite test scenes, starting with the showdown between Batman and Superman. Immediately, I was impressed with the clear differences between the dark detail and the ultra-bright HDR highlights, like the bullet tracers bouncing off of Superman, or the brilliant red flashes from his heat vision, as he hovered above and destroyed Batman's traps. Things were looking very good.

Then I moved on to another scene I like to check out: the courtroom scene. The first thing I noticed was how the overall light level was very, very low. The colors used in the movie are, by the director's choice, fairly muted. But here, I was just dissatisfied with the overall light level of the picture.

I paused a moment, and switched to the Bright Cinema settings that Oledurt shared a couple weeks ago. Immediately, the difference was noticeable. Even though the lamp went from High in Digital Cinema mode to Medium in Bright Cinema, the light output had increased. The colors were more saturated, people's faces look on a different tone, going from yellowish to more sun-kissed.

So went back to the showdown scene and did some comparisons, and it was clear that it's a trade off between overall light level in Bright Cinema, and black level with shadow detail in Digital Cinema. I paused at the moment when Superman used his heat vision, swapping between settings. Both were very vivid, and I payed careful attention to see if I could note any differences between the P3 Color Gamut visible in Digital Cinema and the less-than-P3 Color Gamut in Bright Cinema, and I couldn't. If anything, because of the increased color saturation in Bright Cinema, it looked slightly more colorful. And I do mean SLIGHTLY. In motion, I doubt I could have identified which was which, in that particularly bright moment on screen. My point is, both looked great, in this scene.

So at this point, while debating which of these two settings I wanted to use, I'd have to give the nod to the Bright Cinema settings. The plusses are more overall light level, slightly increased color saturation, intensely bright HDR highlights, and less fan noise (though it's not too big an issue, especially when played at normal volume levels). On the other hand, the black level really is better in Digital Cinema, owing to the reduced light level. A never-ending battle.

To settle the debate, I put on Guardians of the Galaxy 2. The First two scenes would tell me all I needed to know to decide what my preference would be. Though I can appreciate the black levels in Digital Cinema mode, I just prefer the Bright Cinema settings.

And that's when something happened I DIDN'T Expect. I was using the remote to remove some old saved Memory slots, and copy some existing ones to the vacated spaces and rename them. During this process, I activated a memory I'd saved called "Games", one that I'd configured by using the Xbox One's Calibration mode. It was configured for Brightness, Contrast, and Color with an SDR signal from the Xbox One, and I use it with the Xbox One and PS4. It looks great with game content, and I've never felt the need to tweak it. It's using the standard gamma setting of "0", with the ECO lamp setting. I had paused in a particular frame in GOTG2 where Rocket is piloting the GOTG's ship through the Asteroid field. I activated this memory slot and I was struck by how great the picture looked. I fired up the Masciola test patterns real quick and realized that only the Contrast setting needed some adjustment, likely because it was calibrated with an SDR signal from the Xbox One. I put this in line with a 1,000 nit white clip point and saved a new memory slot. When I came back to it, it still looked great, even on ECO mode. I got out my iPhone7 Plus, and took 3 pictures. The first is this modified "Game" setting, the second is Oledurt's calibration numbers for Bright Cinema, and the third is Oledurt's calibration numbers for Digital Cinema. There's a massive difference between the first two pictures and the third, but it's REALLY HARD to see the differences in the first two, on this particular still image. In real life, and in the photos. I am not saying they are exactly the same. They definitely are not, especially on close inspection of the still image. But since I have no way to reference the DP's intended vision for each scene, and since each of these modes passes a visual test against test patterns, I see no reason not to use any of the three of them. 

I was so struck by how similar the images from GOTG2 were, that I went back into BvS and took some pictures of the Courtroom scene and the showdown scene. Again, very similar but not exactly the same, especially in the saturation of red tones. In motion, hard to tell the difference. And since one uses ECO mode which lowers fan noise and extends the bulb life, I can't see why I wouldn't use it.

Finally, I got to thinking about some things that are definitely true:
1. I have a home theater to mimic the experience of a real theater, and "immersion" is tops on the list (as opposed to reference quality video).
2. With the possible exception of Dolby Cinema, I doubt I have ever seen a properly calibrated theater presentation - and I've still enjoyed the movie-watching experience.
3. When we "copy" from another user who's had their system professionally calibrated, it is NOT the same as having our projectors calibrated. NOT THE SAME. Each machine, each screen, each room is different, and adds variables.
4. Since Oledurt's settings in my room do not give me Oledurt's results in his room, there's no way for me to know if using his settings is better than the default settings. In my room.
5. To settle this, I need to either choose to be happy with what I have, or choose to hire a calibrator. And there aren't many, if any, in Northern Colorado that advertise calbrating for UHD with HDR.
6. I was happy with the picture I got from just using the default CMS and Gamma settings on Bright Cinema, adjusted with test patterns.
7. I have been happy with Blu-Ray performance, using the default CMS and Gamma settings on Natural, adjusted with test patterns.
8. I don't need to worry about this anymore. It's time to stop fretting and start enjoying movies again.

I have saved 3 memory slots for UHD: My adjusted "game" setting using Bright Cinema in ECO mode, Oledurt's calibrated Bright Cinema settings using Medium, and Oledurt's calibrated Digital Cinema settings using High. My Blu-Ray and Game settings remain as well. All are adjusted with test patterns (R Masciola for UHD/HDR, and Disney WOW/Xbox One for SDR). They all use the HDMI "Expanded" range setting (and have all been calibrated thusly), because that's what Oledurt's settings specify, and I don't want to have to dig into the Signal menu every time I load a memory.

I watched Blade Runner in UHD last night using the first memory setting, and I remain very impressed with what this projector can do. 

For those wondering, I have a 152" Seymour UF 1.0 gain, 2.35:1 screen. My 6040 is mounted about 17 feet away from the screen. That's a big image, from a fairly good distance. 

*TL;DR:*
Through testing, I have determined that the out-of-the box Gamma and CMS settings perform well enough for me, and I don't need to fuss with changing settings as often as I change my socks. 

It's time to start using my theater for what it was intended for: enjoying movies. 

To any of you who want to continue on, seeking to tweak until you've extracted last bit of picture quality goodness from your projectors, I commend you. To quote one of my favorite movies: "In that case, God be with you in your quest." (Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade)

I have attached some pictures, taken in my room off my screen with iPhone7 Plus. The white balance/focus point was set on the brightest part of each image. They have not been re-touched. I used the Diptic app on my phone to assemble them in frames, cropping the pics to fit the frames. I will say, though it's not obvious in the pictures, the Digital Cinema settings does appear much dimmer in real life. And the image on the screen is MUCH sharper than these pictures would indicate.

The pictures with 3 panels show, from top to bottom:
1). Bright Cinema mode with standard CMS and gamma (0) setting.
2). Oledurt's Bright Cinema mode.
3). Oledurt's Digital Cinema mode.

The pictures with 2 panels show, from top to bottom:
1). Bright Cinema mode with standard CMS and gamma (0) setting.
2). Oledurt's Bright Cinema mode.


----------



## Hal_M

jdbarnes63 said:


> Hal, the 4300H will work fine with the Epson 5040UB. Now with the price drops it is a really good bargain for what you get


Thanks. Yeah, I'm definitely leaning towards it.


----------



## siuengr

Great post. Thanks for all the detail. I think I prefer the Bright Cinema in all the examples, except for maybe GOTG2. It looked like Rocket may be a little on the warm side. The middle image looks like it has good contrast and color. Now I am going to have to play with my settings again tonight. Who knew it would be so much work to enjoy a home theater.




Spoiler






Chris the Rock said:


> Good day, fellow enthusiasts. I'd like to share something with you all. This might win "longest post in the thread". It's not meant to start an argument, or to pit people against one another. And after this post, I probably won't be visiting this thread very often any more.
> 
> *TL;DR:* For those who don't want to read it all, skip to the end. I'll summarize.
> 
> For the months since I purchased my Epson 6040, I've visited this thread almost every day, ever since my first experience playing a UHD disc on my brand new Oppo 203, with the default Digital Cinema settings with "Auto" HDR2. Like many of you, I found the image to be much too dim, and was very disappointed - and it led me here. I followed along, reading every post since the very first, and have learned a great deal.
> 
> I don't contribute much, but I have been a beneficiary of the information and experiences that have been shared. I've taken a couple of breaks, mostly when I've been out of town. Last week, I went on vacation and didn't "check in" a single time. It was nice.
> 
> After I came back, I looked at the latest posts, and saw that Oledurt - one of the most prolific contributors to the discussion -
> had posted that he had gone back to using the Digital Cinema mode, and had re-posted his calibrated settings. I copied them down and took some time to give them a try, with the proper expectation that the colors would seem less saturated. I entered the settings in, ran through the R. Masciola test patterns to double check the results against the Brightness, Contrast, and Color Bar patterns. I made some slight adjustments based on my theater environment, lowering the brightness a couple ticks, raising the contrast and color saturation just a hair. Just as a side note, when looking at the contrast pattern, I noticed a tiny bit of greenish/bluish hue in the white flashing patterns, leading me to the conclusion that - as Oledurt has stated many times - the CMS settings that were applied to his projector in his room won't necessarily be perfect for everyone's projector in everyone's room.
> After entering and confirming the settings, I proceeded to check them out with demo material from a movie that I'm familiar with: Batman vs Superman.
> 
> I fired up my favorite test scenes, starting with the showdown between Batman and Superman. Immediately, I was impressed with the clear differences between the dark detail and the ultra-bright HDR highlights, like the bullet tracers bouncing off of Superman, or the brilliant red flashes from his heat vision, as he hovered above and destroyed Batman's traps. Things were looking very good.
> 
> Then I moved on to another scene I like to check out: the courtroom scene. The first thing I noticed was how the overall light level was very, very low. The colors used in the movie are, by the director's choice, fairly muted. But here, I was just dissatisfied with the overall light level of the picture.
> 
> I paused a moment, and switched to the Bright Cinema settings that Oledurt shared a couple weeks ago. Immediately, the difference was noticeable. Even though the lamp went from High in Digital Cinema mode to Medium in Bright Cinema, the light output had increased. The colors were more saturated, people's faces look on a different tone, going from yellowish to more sun-kissed.
> 
> So went back to the showdown scene and did some comparisons, and it was clear that it's a trade off between overall light level in Bright Cinema, and black level with shadow detail in Digital Cinema. I paused at the moment when Superman used his heat vision, swapping between settings. Both were very vivid, and I payed careful attention to see if I could note any differences between the P3 Color Gamut visible in Digital Cinema and the less-than-P3 Color Gamut in Bright Cinema, and I couldn't. If anything, because of the increased color saturation in Bright Cinema, it looked slightly more colorful. And I do mean SLIGHTLY. In motion, I doubt I could have identified which was which, in that particularly bright moment on screen. My point is, both looked great, in this scene.
> 
> So at this point, while debating which of these two settings I wanted to use, I'd have to give the nod to the Bright Cinema settings. The plusses are more overall light level, slightly increased color saturation, intensely bright HDR highlights, and less fan noise (though it's not too big an issue, especially when played at normal volume levels). On the other hand, the black level really is better in Digital Cinema, owing to the reduced light level. A never-ending battle.
> 
> To settle the debate, I put on Guardians of the Galaxy 2. The First two scenes would tell me all I needed to know to decide what my preference would be. Though I can appreciate the black levels in Digital Cinema mode, I just prefer the Bright Cinema settings.
> 
> And that's when something happened I DIDN'T Expect. I was using the remote to remove some old saved Memory slots, and copy some existing ones to the vacated spaces and rename them. During this process, I activated a memory I'd saved called "Games", one that I'd configured by using the Xbox One's Calibration mode. It was configured for Brightness, Contrast, and Color with an SDR signal from the Xbox One, and I use it with the Xbox One and PS4. It looks great with game content, and I've never felt the need to tweak it. It's using the standard gamma setting of "0", with the ECO lamp setting. I had paused in a particular frame in GOTG2 where Rocket is piloting the GOTG's ship through the Asteroid field. I activated this memory slot and I was struck by how great the picture looked. I fired up the Masciola test patterns real quick and realized that only the Contrast setting needed some adjustment, likely because it was calibrated with an SDR signal from the Xbox One. I put this in line with a 1,000 nit white clip point and saved a new memory slot. When I came back to it, it still looked great, even on ECO mode. I got out my iPhone7 Plus, and took 3 pictures. The first is this modified "Game" setting, the second is Oledurt's calibration numbers for Bright Cinema, and the third is Oledurt's calibration numbers for Digital Cinema. There's a massive difference between the first two pictures and the third, but it's REALLY HARD to see the differences in the first two, on this particular still image. In real life, and in the photos. I am not saying they are exactly the same. They definitely are not, especially on close inspection of the still image. But since I have no way to reference the DP's intended vision for each scene, and since each of these modes passes a visual test against test patterns, I see no reason not to use any of the three of them.
> 
> I was so struck by how similar the images from GOTG2 were, that I went back into BvS and took some pictures of the Courtroom scene and the showdown scene. Again, very similar but not exactly the same, especially in the saturation of red tones. In motion, hard to tell the difference. And since one uses ECO mode which lowers fan noise and extends the bulb life, I can't see why I wouldn't use it.
> 
> Finally, I got to thinking about some things that are definitely true:
> 1. I have a home theater to mimic the experience of a real theater, and "immersion" is tops on the list (as opposed to reference quality video).
> 2. With the possible exception of Dolby Cinema, I doubt I have ever seen a properly calibrated theater presentation - and I've still enjoyed the movie-watching experience.
> 3. When we "copy" from another user who's had their system professionally calibrated, it is NOT the same as having our projectors calibrated. NOT THE SAME. Each machine, each screen, each room is different, and adds variables.
> 4. Since Oledurt's settings in my room do not give me Oledurt's results in his room, there's no way for me to know if using his settings is better than the default settings. In my room.
> 5. To settle this, I need to either choose to be happy with what I have, or choose to hire a calibrator. And there aren't many, if any, in Northern Colorado that advertise calbrating for UHD with HDR.
> 6. I was happy with the picture I got from just using the default CMS and Gamma settings on Bright Cinema, adjusted with test patterns.
> 7. I have been happy with Blu-Ray performance, using the default CMS and Gamma settings on Natural, adjusted with test patterns.
> 8. I don't need to worry about this anymore. It's time to stop fretting and start enjoying movies again.
> 
> I have saved 3 memory slots for UHD: My adjusted "game" setting using Bright Cinema in ECO mode, Oledurt's calibrated Bright Cinema settings using Medium, and Oledurt's calibrated Digital Cinema settings using High. My Blu-Ray and Game settings remain as well. All are adjusted with test patterns (R Masciola for UHD/HDR, and Disney WOW/Xbox One for SDR). They all use the HDMI "Expanded" range setting (and have all been calibrated thusly), because that's what Oledurt's settings specify, and I don't want to have to dig into the Signal menu every time I load a memory.
> 
> I watched Blade Runner in UHD last night using the first memory setting, and I remain very impressed with what this projector can do.
> 
> For those wondering, I have a 152" Seymour UF 1.0 gain, 2.35:1 screen. My 6040 is mounted about 17 feet away from the screen. That's a big image, from a fairly good distance.
> 
> *TL;DR:*
> Through testing, I have determined that the out-of-the box Gamma and CMS settings perform well enough for me, and I don't need to fuss with changing settings as often as I change my socks.
> 
> It's time to start using my theater for what it was intended for: enjoying movies.
> 
> To any of you who want to continue on, seeking to tweak until you've extracted last bit of picture quality goodness from your projectors, I commend you. To quote one of my favorite movies: "In that case, God be with you in your quest." (Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade)
> 
> I have attached some pictures, taken in my room off my screen with iPhone7 Plus. The white balance/focus point was set on the brightest part of each image. They have not been re-touched. I used the Diptic app on my phone to assemble them in frames, cropping the pics to fit the frames. I will say, though it's not obvious in the pictures, the Digital Cinema settings does appear much dimmer in real life. And the image on the screen is MUCH sharper than these pictures would indicate.
> 
> The pictures with 3 panels show, from top to bottom:
> 1). Bright Cinema mode with standard CMS and gamma (0) setting.
> 2). Oledurt's Bright Cinema mode.
> 3). Oledurt's Digital Cinema mode.
> 
> The pictures with 2 panels show, from top to bottom:
> 1). Bright Cinema mode with standard CMS and gamma (0) setting.
> 2). Oledurt's Bright Cinema mode.


----------



## Lesmor

siuengr said:


> Who knew it would be so much work to enjoy a home theater.


Epson


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

just bought Nvidia TV Pro. Netflix here I come  
by the way my Panny UB700 also has it but I think it will be overall better experience with Android TV on Shield...


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

BlueTip said:


> Bump! Any concrete details or additional observations on firmware 1.10/1.04?


Nothing major. It was already explained few posts back. Epson said they fixed some minor problem concerning few models with home screen going blank or something like that. Still good to have the latest firmware. I upgraded mine few days ago.


----------



## Chris the Rock

siuengr said:


> Great post. Thanks for all the detail. I think I prefer the Bright Cinema in all the examples, except for maybe GOTG2. It looked like Rocket may be a little on the warm side. The middle image looks like it has good contrast and color. Now I am going to have to play with my settings again tonight. Who knew it would be so much work to enjoy a home theater.


It does feel like that, doesn't it? And that was what drove me to my conclusions. I spent so much time tweaking, I was losing the magic of having a freaking movie theater in my house! I was jealous of my friends and family who would rave about how awesome it is, and all I could think about is whether the fairies on Ego's Planet were the exact right shade of lavender, or if I could make out the rivets on the dark side of the Batmobile.

I'm being facetious, and I don't intend to downplay the importance of doing what you can to adjust your image to the best of your ability, up to and including hiring a calibrator. Trust me, if I had one local, I would have. It's just that after a week away from it all, I came back to my setup and felt a strong sense of contentment and a desire to just enjoy it without letting my quest for perfection ruin the experience.

When I replace this projector at some point in the future, of course all this stuff I said goes right out the window.


----------



## DrNorm

*too many hoops to jump through*



Juiced46 said:


> So I have a small rant about this projector and want to see what your guys thoughts are on it.
> My rant is, I feel like I was sort of mislead on the purchase of this projector. Epson advertises this projector as "HDR" compatible but in their description on their website it does not speak of any limitations.


I am 100% in agreement with you and have had very much the same experience. You have commented on a number of my posts re: setting up my PJ, so I think you know exactly where I am coming from, as well.

I DO agree that the image is absolutely amazing. I replaced an older Sanyo Z5 (720p max) that had fried polarizers and poor light output (to the point where the center 1/3 of the screen was just a green blob and contrast was so poor any dark scene was just "flat black"). The images from this PJ are just jaw dropping. Especially good 4k source material.

Where I have been pulling my hair out is trying to get this PJ to "work" in HDR. I too read through posts and "sort of understood" there was an issue with bandwidth and "4k/60Hz + HDR" but truly didn't understand what that would mean from a PRACTICAL perspective.

Trying to find the right combo of source devices that would work or not spending hundreds of additional dollars for "new streaming devices" that might/might not stream content that might/might not even exist.

SOME of this difficult and confusion I also blame on the providers (Netflix and Amazon, specifically). What I mean is that NEITHER provides any info on what options are available for a specific program. In the case of Netflix, they will ONLY show you what your system is capable of displaying but not what other options might be available. So, if you do not have HDCP 2.2, then NO 4K content will be identified. (i.e., if you select a new show that is known to be "available" from NF in 4K, you still only see "HD" as the format. But, if you do the exact same thing in a 4k/HDCP 2.2 capable system, you now see that same show as being presented in "UHD".) So, since the 5040 will not process 4k/60Hz/HDR, I have no idea what shows that I currently watch in "UHD" might also be available in HDR.

Also, many on this forum have said that "given the choice, they would rather watch something in 1080p/HDR than 4k/no HDR" but I have found no way to "force" Amazon or Netflix to allow me to make that choice. One thought was to go to my streaming box and deselect "4K" as a supported mode- except, then, I wouldn't be able to watch any 4k content (in 4k) which is not available in HDR (w/o having to constantly switch this setting back/forth and practically "test" every single program to see if it is available in HDR since neither NF nor Amazon TELL you that info anywhere).

Granted, this is not the projector's fault, but it is a major PRACTICAL pain in the a$$ associated with this projector that Epson really kind of "glossed over"- and I feel frankly misled me about.

I think it's fair to say that many of us are a bit bipolar in our entertainment consumption? On the one hand, we obsess over details and want to set everything up "just right" and calibrate our sound and calibrate our video, etc. We measure distances to screen and speaker in inches, sound levels, light levels, etc. We want the "perfect" media experience. But at other times, we just want to turn it on, have it all work and watch the Late Show. Also, some of us have spouses (or guests!) who are not aeronautical engineers and want to be able to watch the news without a 1 hour "review course" every time. We want to just "turn it on and have it work." As good as my universal remote is, it will never be as good as my old Philips pronto and trying to do things like change output resolutions to deal with a finicky projector will likely never be automated (at least not by something that Logitech makes!!!)

From the numerous threads I have posted, it seems that the NVIDIA Shield may be the one streaming device that plays the nicest with this projector - but I'm not sure that it will solve all of the problems? Or maybe it does by "fixing" the max output to 4k/24Hz? I was still under the impression that Netflix only output [email protected] 60Hz (HDR or not) so the Shield still doesn't allow you to watch a 4k stream from Netflix in HDR?

Now, the image from this PJ is "so good" that I have decided to just give up on trying to watch anything in HDR. I know that "HDR is so amazing" and read reviews of recent Bladerunner re-release, etc., but I have come to the conclusion that it is simply not worth the hassle or expense. (which would require a new DVD player, new AVR, new streaming box(es), etc.) "just" to get a slightly better image that might/might not be available most of the time, anyway.

I don't know that this is Epson's "fault" and it's probably not "reasonable" that I should be upset that an amazing PJ that costs significantly less than a true 4k PJ doesn't have the exact same functionality as a 4k PJ (that costs many, many thousands more) but it has been extremely frustrating. I have spend significant time trying to figure out "how to make this PJ work the way it was advertised as working" only to finally come to the conclusion that it was "marketing BS" and I am trying to do something that really can't (easily) be done. SInce I regularly start off watched DVR'd evening news and then moving on to streaming from Amazon or Netflix, having to make changes all the time, check source info (to see if HDR so I know if I need to change to an HDR setting in memory- and then remembering to change back when I move to a different show that might not be in HDR) is just way too much trouble for daily use.

One solution would have been to just buy a true 4k TV and have been done with it. (although, even then, there are still competing formats [HDR/Dolby Vision, app capabilities and content/manufacturer alliances] that even this is not a guarantee).

Perhaps, just sticking to watching 4k DVD's from a player that outputs HDR in 24Hz - where every variable is known and controlled- is the best answer here? It's just that that's not how I use this PJ (just as the original poster uses his for game playing).


----------



## welldun

*this is the correct link...*



Hal_M said:


> Does anyone have a recommendation on an HDMI splitter that sends all appropriate signals to the 5040?
> 
> My receiver doesn't pass through 4K, so I have to hook my 4k Blu-ray player directly to the PJ. Problem is, I also have a Roku and a PS3 which means I'm constantly switching the HDMI cable to the Epson from one device to another. It's just a matter of time before I wear something out.
> 
> Obviously looking for something that will pass through both 4K and 3D. I noticed some splitters only pass through 4K at 30Hz. Is there one that will pass through the signal without compromising it?


I don't have this (not needed for my setup) but I found this one that might work for you. I would recommend calling them.
https://sewelldirect.com/switchdeck-hdmi-switch-by-sewell-3x1-distribution-amplifier-4k-at-60hz-3d-hdcp-22-444-chroma-


----------



## Hal_M

welldun said:


> I don't have this (not needed for my setup) but I found this one that might work for you. I would recommend calling them.
> 
> https://sewelldirect.com/sewell-splitdeck-1x4-hdmi-splitter-?stm_type=ppc&stm_source=adwords&stm_brand=unnasigned&campaignid=799799703&adgroupid=46275499881&creative=195473319734&targetid:kwd-304183117903&feeditemid=&keyword=%2B4k%20%2Bhdmi%20%2Bsplitter&matchtype=b&gclid=CjwKEAjwxo3OBRDp3Pvxhd7s_D8SJABLtfrZwMt3P_l7ni8J7PP4oqvtLjazLYTZXFmW89Rdl2lThRoCV9vw_wcB


Thanks. It seems, unless I am mistaken, that this one takes one signal and puts it out to 4 different TVs. I need one that takes different signals and puts them all out to the same TV. I'll see if Sewell makes one of these.


----------



## Chris the Rock

Hal_M said:


> Thanks. It seems, unless I am mistaken, that this one takes one signal and puts it out to 4 different TVs. I need one that takes different signals and puts them all out to the same TV. I'll see if Sewell makes one of these.


https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15262

This only has 3 inputs, but it will handle all video that this projector can handle.

EDIT: This one has 4 inputs, does 4K60hz with 18gpbs bandwidth (exceeding what the 5040 can handle). https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21614


----------



## Hal_M

Chris the Rock said:


> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15262
> 
> This only has 3 inputs, but it will handle all video that this projector can handle.
> 
> EDIT: This one has 4 inputs, does 4K60hz with 18gpbs bandwidth (exceeding what the 5040 can handle). https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21614


Thanks, Chris. I'll probably get the first one as it's a third of the price and I only need 3 inputs (and don't want to pay that much more for something my projector won't even do  ).


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave Harper said:


> True!
> 
> They also need fine print along with my settings here because I don't think what's posted will give a true representation of what it really looks like because my CMS settings aren't listed.
> 
> I just emailed the buyer of mine that I did the awesome final calibration on before I shipped it and he said he wiped the projector (so I couldn't get the settings!) because he isn't into PQ really and just wanted it for games!
> 
> If anyone wants to send me their 5040/6040UB to get some good CMS numbers again, let me know!


I can share my Digital Cinema CMS settings. But these are not from any certified expert calibrator. This is DIY using HCFR. They were done for SDR though.
I already have those for Cinema in my signature.


----------



## Juiced46

Lesmor said:


> I totally agree with everything that you say
> Nowadays it appears to be acceptable for marketing to be economical with the truth but if they claim a product can do HDR that is what you would expect it to do
> But it is always in how it is worded "HDR Compatible" what does that really mean?
> 
> I always think back to when TV's were marketed as "HD Ready" but failed to disclose that they were only 720P and could never do Full 1080P HD
> 
> Marketing also have the habit of selling on features based on future firmware updates which may or may not work without issues.
> 
> I also waited 6 months before buying this projector in the hope any shortcomings would be revealed but as always it seems to happen after purchase.
> I also take issue with the professional reviewers who fail to mention obvious limitations perhaps due to advertising revenue they dont give unbiased reviews.
> Because Sales are their bread and butter dealers are just as bad
> Thats my rant over





DrNorm said:


> I am 100% in agreement with you and have had very much the same experience. You have commented on a number of my posts re: setting up my PJ, so I think you know exactly where I am coming from, as well.
> 
> I DO agree that the image is absolutely amazing. I replaced an older Sanyo Z5 (720p max) that had fried polarizers and poor light output (to the point where the center 1/3 of the screen was just a green blob and contrast was so poor any dark scene was just "flat black"). The images from this PJ are just jaw dropping. Especially good 4k source material.
> 
> Where I have been pulling my hair out is trying to get this PJ to "work" in HDR. I too read through posts and "sort of understood" there was an issue with bandwidth and "4k/60Hz + HDR" but truly didn't understand what that would mean from a PRACTICAL perspective.
> 
> Trying to find the right combo of source devices that would work or not spending hundreds of additional dollars for "new streaming devices" that might/might not stream content that might/might not even exist.
> 
> SOME of this difficult and confusion I also blame on the providers (Netflix and Amazon, specifically). What I mean is that NEITHER provides any info on what options are available for a specific program. In the case of Netflix, they will ONLY show you what your system is capable of displaying but not what other options might be available. So, if you do not have HDCP 2.2, then NO 4K content will be identified. (i.e., if you select a new show that is known to be "available" from NF in 4K, you still only see "HD" as the format. But, if you do the exact same thing in a 4k/HDCP 2.2 capable system, you now see that same show as being presented in "UHD".) So, since the 5040 will not process 4k/60Hz/HDR, I have no idea what shows that I currently watch in "UHD" might also be available in HDR.
> 
> Also, many on this forum have said that "given the choice, they would rather watch something in 1080p/HDR than 4k/no HDR" but I have found no way to "force" Amazon or Netflix to allow me to make that choice. One thought was to go to my streaming box and deselect "4K" as a supported mode- except, then, I wouldn't be able to watch any 4k content (in 4k) which is not available in HDR (w/o having to constantly switch this setting back/forth and practically "test" every single program to see if it is available in HDR since neither NF nor Amazon TELL you that info anywhere).
> 
> Granted, this is not the projector's fault, but it is a major PRACTICAL pain in the a$$ associated with this projector that Epson really kind of "glossed over"- and I feel frankly misled me about.
> 
> I think it's fair to say that many of us are a bit bipolar in our entertainment consumption? On the one hand, we obsess over details and want to set everything up "just right" and calibrate our sound and calibrate our video, etc. We measure distances to screen and speaker in inches, sound levels, light levels, etc. We want the "perfect" media experience. But at other times, we just want to turn it on, have it all work and watch the Late Show. Also, some of us have spouses (or guests!) who are not aeronautical engineers and want to be able to watch the news without a 1 hour "review course" every time. We want to just "turn it on and have it work." As good as my universal remote is, it will never be as good as my old Philips pronto and trying to do things like change output resolutions to deal with a finicky projector will likely never be automated (at least not by something that Logitech makes!!!)
> 
> From the numerous threads I have posted, it seems that the NVIDIA Shield may be the one streaming device that plays the nicest with this projector - but I'm not sure that it will solve all of the problems? Or maybe it does by "fixing" the max output to 4k/24Hz? I was still under the impression that Netflix only output [email protected] 60Hz (HDR or not) so the Shield still doesn't allow you to watch a 4k stream from Netflix in HDR?
> 
> Now, the image from this PJ is "so good" that I have decided to just give up on trying to watch anything in HDR. I know that "HDR is so amazing" and read reviews of recent Bladerunner re-release, etc., but I have come to the conclusion that it is simply not worth the hassle or expense. (which would require a new DVD player, new AVR, new streaming box(es), etc.) "just" to get a slightly better image that might/might not be available most of the time, anyway.
> 
> I don't know that this is Epson's "fault" and it's probably not "reasonable" that I should be upset that an amazing PJ that costs significantly less than a true 4k PJ doesn't have the exact same functionality as a 4k PJ (that costs many, many thousands more) but it has been extremely frustrating. I have spend significant time trying to figure out "how to make this PJ work the way it was advertised as working" only to finally come to the conclusion that it was "marketing BS" and I am trying to do something that really can't (easily) be done. SInce I regularly start off watched DVR'd evening news and then moving on to streaming from Amazon or Netflix, having to make changes all the time, check source info (to see if HDR so I know if I need to change to an HDR setting in memory- and then remembering to change back when I move to a different show that might not be in HDR) is just way too much trouble for daily use.
> 
> One solution would have been to just buy a true 4k TV and have been done with it. (although, even then, there are still competing formats [HDR/Dolby Vision, app capabilities and content/manufacturer alliances] that even this is not a guarantee).
> 
> Perhaps, just sticking to watching 4k DVD's from a player that outputs HDR in 24Hz - where every variable is known and controlled- is the best answer here? It's just that that's not how I use this PJ (just as the original poster uses his for game playing).


I am glad I am not the only one that feels this way and I see where you guys are coming from. 

Dr. Norm, I hear you on the extra expenses to "make it work" and if it is worth it financially to upgrade everything just to get HDR, sometimes. 

For me, I was prepared to upgrade some of my equipment when buying this Projector to be 4K HDR HDCP 2.2 compatible etc. Luckily, I already had an Xbox One S, so I can streak Netflix, Amazon etc and use those apps within the machine for 4K/HDR stuff and UHD Blu Rays. I did not have to buy an Nvidia shield etc. Just a new AVR and a new HDMI cable. 

Right now, for my particular situation, I am waiting for the new Xbox One X to come out and see how it works with this projector. Nobody really knows the details on the video output signals. They just know it will do 4K/60 HDR. But if it only outputs at that rate, then the Epson will just give me a big F*** You and no HDR. It seems like it can be a simple software/firmware fix on the source to let it output at different rates to widen the range of compatibility for those like us with the issues we have. I would hope the Developers worked with these companies and are aware of the issues. I basically bought this projector for HDR gaming, which right now, is non existent for me. It still looks great, don't get me wrong, but Epson really left the "HDR Compatible" phrase open. I guess if they said "HDR sometimes, depending if the planets align correctly and it may work" they would have lost sales.


----------



## Hal_M

Chris the Rock said:


> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15262
> 
> This only has 3 inputs, but it will handle all video that this projector can handle.
> 
> EDIT: This one has 4 inputs, does 4K60hz with 18gpbs bandwidth (exceeding what the 5040 can handle). https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21614


Ah, just found and ordered the same one with 5 inputs: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=15263&seq=1&format=2


----------



## theuserdylan

The Verge has a review of the new Apple TV 4k with a lot of technical information. The Apple TV does not do auto switching between HDR/SDR and resolutions because Apple thinks that users would not like what happens when your display switches. 

You can manually set the device to 4k 60 Hz HDR or 4K 60 Hz SDR. I think that most of us would want to leave it set to 4K 60 Hz SDR most of the time (given the 5040 cannot do 4k 60 Hz HDR). Apparently, Apple does not do a great job of converting SDR content to HDR content. HBOGo is cited as looking worse on the 4K Apple TV than the normal AppleTV for this reason.

If this doesn’t look great on a TV, I imagine that a projector would look even worse, given the challenges of making actual HDR look good with 5040. 

Thus, seems like 4K 60Hz SD is the way to go with Apple TV when not watching HDR content. Apple does offer a 4k 30Hz HDR option for TVs that cannot do 60Hz. I know the 5040 does 24hz. Does that mean the 5040 can also 30Hz? I believe that is the case, but it would be nice if someone can confirm.

It will be interesting to see how the Apple TV handles upscaling. I would assume that it would be better to let the 5040 handle the upscaling and earlier reports are not good. So perhaps we will need to switch between three modes: 1080P, 4k 60 Hz SDR, and 4k 24Hz HDR...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## DrNorm

Juiced46 said:


> I am glad I am not the only one that feels this way and I see where you guys are coming from.
> 
> I am waiting for the new Xbox One X to come out and see how it works with this projector.
> 
> Epson really left the "HDR Compatible" phrase open. I guess if they said "HDR sometimes, depending if the planets align correctly and it may work" they would have lost sales.


OMG- I am so much in agreement, here.
I'm not a gamer (at all) but would consider the Xbox as a solution if it worked for the 5040. (a game or two might be fun and it would work as a UHD DVD player).

I'm sure those with a Shield must think we are complainers? The image of the 5040 is phenomenal and it does a lot of things very well- I just think Epson really took glossed-over a number of details when the said it was "HDR compatible" so far as what hardware sources it was actually compatible with.

A\Once again, "you generally get what you pay for" and this is not a true, native 4k projector. I think the issue ( for me, at least) was that I didn't fully comprehend the ramifications of that and Epson did not go out of their way to disclose them. The result is that I have spend many, many hours trying to research reasonable solutions or workarounds. So far, it keeps circling back to the Shield ($$) or "maybe" the XBox One S ($$$). The XBox One S has a TOSLINK for audio so would not require an upgraded AVR for me (since Shield has no TOSLINK). Perhaps I'll run over to WalMart and pick one up right now (and return the Roku Ultra that I bought there a few days ago). If that would allow me to watch Netflix 4k/24Hz/HDR that would be awesome. It would allow me to get "full/max function" from 5040 and also not have to upgrade my AVR for now (only downside I see is being not being able to take advantage of Atmos). 

With TiVo Bolt I get 4k/60Hz/no HDR and simplicity (one source does all). The XBox would add the ability to watch HDR content at the expense of a little more complexity. (since we often go back/forth between DVR'd shows and streaming)


----------



## Uppsalaing

Yeah, it'll be interesting to see whether or not the Apple TV & epson combo will allow for FauxK HDR movies.

I'm really hoping thst is the case, but won't be too sad if I have to settle for FauxK SDR instead...


----------



## DrNorm

theuserdylan said:


> So perhaps we will need to switch between three modes: 1080P, 4k 60 Hz SDR, and 4k 24Hz HDR...
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


yes, and it's all that "switching about" every time you change channels/programs that is so damned annoying. 

Instead of trying to find the "one or two" hardware sources that will support/allow HDR (and then finding something in HDR to watch) and then making the changes in source output and PJ memory setting..... I'm really leaning to just "set and forget" my source at 4k/60Hz and 
leaving the 5040 on my SDR settings. And just enjoying the damn thing.....


----------



## DrNorm

Juiced46 said:


> I already had an Xbox One S, so I can streak Netflix, Amazon etc and use those apps within the machine for 4K/HDR stuff and UHD Blu Rays. I did not have to buy an Nvidia shield etc. Just a new AVR and a new HDMI cable.


Can you confirm you can watch 4k disks with HDR and stream in 4k/HDR from Netflix with th XB1S? I just looked a dozens of earlier posts in this forum (searching for "Xbox") and many, many folks said they could NOT watch content HDR. Many of those posts were from 6+ months ago so perhaps something has changed? If the XB1S can be set to output @ 24Hz, then that "should" work but can it take the 4k/60hz/HDR incoming signal from Netflix and output it @ 24Hz? 



Juiced46 said:


> Right now, for my particular situation, I am waiting for the new Xbox One X to come out and see how it works with this projector. Nobody really knows the details on the video output signals. They just know it will do 4K/60 HDR.


I also went to MS's XBox website and could find absolutely no (useful) details on the output capabilities of XB1S or the XBX. It also didn't even say if the XBX would play BD4k discs or if it would be a streaming device. Nothing under support sections, no spec lists. Nothing. (only the price = $$$$)

The XB1S is really not much more than the Shield AND it is a gaming device and it has a 4kBD player built in. (and it has a TOSLINK output). "If" it actually plays nicely with the 5040, it almost too good to be true and seems like a no brainer? Is it a "set and forget" so you can just leave it at "max output of 4k/24Hz"?

I have confirmed that Netflix definitely streams @ 4k/60Hz for their UHD and UHD/HDR content. What I still haven't found a clear answer to is whether the XB1S and/or the Shield can "let Netflix server 'see' that it can accept that stream" and then output that signal @ 24Hz.


----------



## Juiced46

DrNorm said:


> Can you confirm you can watch 4k disks with HDR and stream in 4k/HDR from Netflix with th XB1S? I just looked a dozens of earlier posts in this forum (searching for "Xbox") and many, many folks said they could NOT watch content HDR. Many of those posts were from 6+ months ago so perhaps something has changed? If the XB1S can be set to output @ 24Hz, then that "should" work but can it take the 4k/60hz/HDR incoming signal from Netflix and output it @ 24Hz?
> 
> 
> I also went to MS's XBox website and could find absolutely no (useful) details on the output capabilities of XB1S or the XBX. It also didn't even say if the XBX would play BD4k discs or if it would be a streaming device. Nothing under support sections, no spec lists. Nothing. (only the price = $$$$)
> 
> The XB1S is really not much more than the Shield AND it is a gaming device and it has a 4kBD player built in. (and it has a TOSLINK output). "If" it actually plays nicely with the 5040, it almost too good to be true and seems like a no brainer? Is it a "set and forget" so you can just leave it at "max output of 4k/24Hz"?
> 
> I have confirmed that Netflix definitely streams @ 4k/60Hz for their UHD and UHD/HDR content. What I still haven't found a clear answer to is whether the XB1S and/or the Shield can "let Netflix server 'see' that it can accept that stream" and then output that signal @ 24Hz.


I can confirm that I get 4K/HDR when watching UHD Blu Ray discs through the Xbox One S. Also, I can confirm that Amazon Prime streaming plays in 4K/HDR when selecting from the correct section labeled "UHD" in the menus. As far as Netflix, I am not sure, I do not have a 4K Netflix account. All the old threads you read have been patched through a Xbox update and now work.

The Xbox One S works very well (for me) as an all in one unit. Games, streaming, music, apps, and UHD Blu Rays. There is no hassle with switching anything, its all done through the unit. The only settings I change are through the projector based off of the material I am viewing. My only complaint is no HDR gaming compatibility with the Xbox One S which makes no sense to me.. 

For Gaming I have a "Xbox Gaming Calibration" I also use this same setting for SDR Blu Ray material. 

For HDR- I use either Oledurts or Dave Harpers settings. 

I saved my settings in the Projector so it is just a quick option change. Nothing on the Xbox has to get changed, ever.

I think your only hurdle is, if you go this route, either you are going to have to buy an AVR or an HDMI switch.


----------



## Shane M

Hey guys,

I've had the 5040 for a couple months and I'm absolutely loving it. I have been using Apple TV as my primary source. I know we are waiting for some more reviews on the Apple TV 4K, and preliminarily the upscaling from 1080p looks go be poor. I'm not really a huge fan of HDR, so even 4K SDR would be fine.

That said, has anyone done tests with this projector comparing 1080P vs 4K versions of the same content? I haven't been able to find anything in my searches.


----------



## DrNorm

Juiced46 said:


> I think your only hurdle is, if you go this route, either you are going to have to buy an AVR or an HDMI switch.


I can't thank you enough for confirming all that for me. People often say "use SEARCH. Read the posts" but in this case, as you point, out, defects have been patched so some of those older comments are no longer relevant.

BTW- I think I can still do this without having to buy a new AVR as (as near as I can tell from Xbox site), the XB1S does have an optical TOSLINK audio output. I could use that for audio and run HDMI directly to inout on 5040- all that I would be giving up is the ability to decode Atmos/DTS:X. However, I actually DO have 2 "height" speakers which I installed when I built the room (long before 7.1 and Atmos existed) that I can now finally use.... so if I do go this route, an AVR upgrade in the near future would be useful.


----------



## Dave Harper

aaranddeeman said:


> I can share my Digital Cinema CMS settings. But these are not from any certified expert calibrator. This is DIY using HCFR. They were done for SDR though.
> 
> I already have those for Cinema in my signature.



Do you mean SDR as in the actual Signal being sent, or SDR as in sending HDR signal and then manually switching to SDR mode on the projector, like I do for the HarperVision settings?


----------



## theuserdylan

Uppsalaing said:


> Yeah, it'll be interesting to see whether or not the Apple TV & epson combo will allow for FauxK HDR movies.
> 
> I'm really hoping thst is the case, but won't be too sad if I have to settle for FauxK SDR instead...




It’s now been confirmed that Apple TV 4K can output 4K HDR at 24 hz (not just 30 hz as earlier docs suggested). If I’m reading the chart on Epson’s website correctly, it should work then, at least for the UBE, which can do both 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 at 24p. Hopefully it will also work for the UB (but glad I just bought the UBE).


----------



## Uppsalaing

theuserdylan said:


> It’s now been confirmed that Apple TV 4K can output 4K HDR at 24 hz (not just 30 hz as earlier docs suggested). If I’m reading the chart on Epson’s website correctly, it should work then, at least for the UBE, which can do both 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 at 24p. Hopefully it will also work for the UB (but glad I just bought the UBE).


That's great news!


----------



## Lesmor

DrNorm said:


> I can't thank you enough for confirming all that for me. People often say "use SEARCH. Read the posts" but in this case, as you point, out, defects have been patched so some of those older comments are no longer relevant.
> 
> BTW- I think I can still do this without having to buy a new AVR as (as near as I can tell from Xbox site), the XB1S does have an optical TOSLINK audio output. I could use that for audio and run HDMI directly to inout on 5040- all that I would be giving up is the ability to decode Atmos/DTS:X. However, I actually DO have 2 "height" speakers which I installed when I built the room (long before 7.1 and Atmos existed) that I can now finally use.... so if I do go this route, an AVR upgrade in the near future would be useful.


Reading for the past 6 months and seeing so many suggested settings for work arounds 
I dont think anyone is happy with the HDR implementation in these projectors 

It might not have been so bad if there was an option to turn HDR Off (disabled so that the EDID did not report it was "capable" of doing HDR)

But why just accept this situation?
As it makes their life easier many companies rely on people being apathetic.
Surely in this age of social media we have power and could raise a petition to get issues with this projector addressed?

Second rant over


----------



## marco1975

Chris the Rock said:


> I'm being facetious, and I don't intend to downplay the importance of doing what you can to adjust your image to the best of your ability, up to and including hiring a calibrator. Trust me, if I had one local, I would have.


Not even if u hire a pro. calibrator to do the job, that u would be guarantee an accurate result.
pro. calibrator are not equal, and so is their calibration instruments...and with all the HDR. standard war that we have at the moment its really like a jungle out there! because of that it,s even much more harder for any pro. calibrator to acheive an acceptable result, and i really doubt it very much that u will get any accurate result when it comes to HDR. calibration by hiring a pro. calibrator. 
Even if u buy the R.Masciola's HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns to manaully calibrate the basic setting for this specific projector (which is i also did) its not going to be an accurate result, because remember these HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns are masterd using HDR-10 standard setting, but the majority of us if not all, use (Auto bright) which in return would alter the whole setting for HDR.
My advice to u for HDR. just use one of the default mode that looks best to u, and then just tweak it a little bit by eyes to your own preferences. just try to enjoy the show 
personally i find Digital cinema with gamma +1 seems to be ok. for HDR.


----------



## Chris the Rock

marco1975 said:


> Even if u buy the R.Masciola's HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns to manaully calibrate the basic setting for this specific projector (which is i also did) its not going to be an accurate result, because remember these HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns are masterd using HDR-10 standard setting, but the majority of us if not all, use (Auto bright) which in return would alter the whole setting for HDR.


*This is a great point, I think many people miss this.* 

This truth, and many others, have led me to the conclusion that I should just stop searching for the "Holy Grail" of settings, and just enjoy what I've got.


----------



## swyda038

I've tried every one of the UHD/HDR settings that have been graciously provided by Harper, Oledurt's, and several other people on this forum (Thank You!), yet when I put in a blu-ray disc of the same movie I end up seeing equal or better overall image quality results with the bluray in Natural mode - Auto Bright HDR1 then with a UHD disc of the same movie using the aforementioned UHD settings. I don't have any calibration equipment to actually test results more scientifically, but just going off of visual comparison. Does anyone else have very similar image quality results or better with a blu-ray then UHD on this projector? I have a samsung 8500k player and a Yamaha RX-V679BL. Just wondering if I am missing something here.


----------



## welldun

Hal_M said:


> Thanks. It seems, unless I am mistaken, that this one takes one signal and puts it out to 4 different TVs. I need one that takes different signals and puts them all out to the same TV. I'll see if Sewell makes one of these.


Yup I actually editted the post shortly after I sent it because I noticed it had the wrong order. However the link that is there with the title "This is the Correct Link" should be the one that does what you want. 

I would also suggest getting one that works via remote if you plan on switching often between sources and the setup is far from your sitting position. Years back I was using a manual one from Monoprice and quickly realized that I should have gotten the one with the remote. 

Good luck either way.


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> Reading for the past 6 months and seeing so many suggested settings for work arounds
> I dont think anyone is happy with the HDR implementation in these projectors
> 
> It might not have been so bad if there was an option to turn HDR Off (disabled so that the EDID did not report it was "capable" of doing HDR)
> 
> But why just accept this situation?
> As it makes their life easier many companies rely on people being apathetic.
> Surely in this age of social media we have power and could raise a petition to get issues with this projector addressed?
> 
> Second rant over


Myself, you and a couple of others in the UK petitioned Epson for basic auto detection of UHD/HDR so as to change to the chosen settings or memory used for UHD/HDR but nobody in this thread seemed to be bothered about it. For me it would be one less thing to have to remember to do, settings/memory's change automatically between SDR 2D and 3D so why not between SDR and UHD/HDR ?. 

I think it could easily be implemented in a f/w update, I was hopeful but don't think Epson even listened to be honest.


----------



## Lesmor

panman40 said:


> Myself, you and a couple of others in the UK petitioned Epson for basic auto detection of UHD/HDR so as to change to the chosen settings or memory used for UHD/HDR but nobody in this thread seemed to be bothered about it. For me it would be one less thing to have to remember to do, settings/memory's change automatically between SDR 2D and 3D so why not between SDR and UHD/HDR ?.
> 
> I think it could easily be implemented in a f/w update, I was hopeful but don't think Epson even listened to be honest.


I totally agree Martin
I would go as far as to say that Epson should have provided a UHD/HDR mode where the projector already had the best default settings based on Epson's design engineering.

Using that UHD/HDR mode there would be no guesswork and owners would know its the best they can get out of it other than getting a professional calibration


----------



## Lesmor

Chris the Rock said:


> *This is a great point, I think many people miss this.*
> 
> This truth, and many others, have led me to the conclusion that I should just stop searching for the "Holy Grail" of settings, and just enjoy what I've got.


And accept that you have been short changed on the $$$$ you spent because of false advertising


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> panman40 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Myself, you and a couple of others in the UK petitioned Epson for basic auto detection of UHD/HDR so as to change to the chosen settings or memory used for UHD/HDR but nobody in this thread seemed to be bothered about it. For me it would be one less thing to have to remember to do, settings/memory's change automatically between SDR 2D and 3D so why not between SDR and UHD/HDR ?.
> 
> I think it could easily be implemented in a f/w update, I was hopeful but don't think Epson even listened to be honest.
> 
> 
> 
> I totally agree Martin
> I would go as far as to say that Epson should have provided a UHD/HDR mode where the projector already had the best default settings based on Epson's design engineering.
> 
> Using that UHD/HDR mode there would be no guesswork and owners would know its the best they can get out of it other than getting a professional calibration
Click to expand...

That would of been good Andy, I can't believe the original f/w defaulted to HDR 2, I don't often watch HDR which makes it even more difficult to remember to change the memory first then change it back afterwards.

We watched the 3rd episode of planet earth 2 last night, I'm not sure of your into that kind of thing but it looks quite stunning, obviously most scenes are shot in bright conditions so that helps. I highly recommend it.


----------



## Lesmor

panman40 said:


> That would of been good Andy, I can't believe the original f/w defaulted to HDR 2, I don't often watch HDR which makes it even more difficult to remember to change the memory first then change it back afterwards.
> 
> We watched the 3rd episode of planet earth 2 last night, I'm not sure of your into that kind of thing but it looks quite stunning, obviously most scenes are shot in bright conditions so that helps. I highly recommend it.


Planet earth 2 does appear to be the UHD/HDR reference

I am surprised that no one has mentioned or tried Cinema mode for UHD/HDR
Cinema was used by the AVForums review in the UK for HDR
It also uses the DCI-P3 filter (unlike Bright Cinema) and might offer a middle ground performance between Digital Cinema and Bright Cinema


----------



## Chris the Rock

Lesmor said:


> And accept that you have been short changed on the $$$$ you spent because of false advertising


Sorry you see it that way. I don't.

I do lament the lack of information available to consumers, and the ever-changing landscape of standards through the entire chain from content producers, to playback devices, to displays. It's not an Epson problem, it's a state-of-the-industry problem. I can't say this for sure, but I'd guess that every manufacturer of displays and projectors has a subset of their enthusiast customers that are disappointed. 

Also, I was sad to learn that a hardware limitation prevents the output of 4K, HDR video at 60Hz, like for gaming consoles (because I use my projector mostly for gaming). But until very recently, that wasn't even a thing. During the development of this projector, there wasn't any way for them to test or prepare for it. Gaming consoles haven't been doing 4K visuals with HDR for all that long, and UHD hasn't been with us very long, either. I'm frankly amazed how quickly it's taken off. I don't remember High Definition taking off at this rapid a pace. 

And it's not like there are a great many choices of projectors with the same features (auto lens shift, lens memory, low input lag, UHD playback, widely-praised picture quality, long bulb life) at the same pricepoint. Some that cost a bit more, yes (but in the case of JVC you have to consider input lag and high cost of replacement bulbs). New ones coming out, yes. But not when this was released. In my view, it's unfair to judge this machine (which has been in customer's hands for a year or so) with the same criteria as machines more recently announced or released. And any judgements must be made relative to its price, which in the world of brand new projectors, is pretty low.

This isn't meant to start or continue an argument, just a counterpoint in the discussion for anyone who might be browsing this with the thought of purchasing this machine. It's been good to me, that's all I can say from my perspective - and if yours is different, I wish you the best.


----------



## marco1975

Lesmor said:


> Planet earth 2 does appear to be the UHD/HDR reference
> 
> I am surprised that no one has mentioned or tried Cinema mode for UHD/HDR
> Cinema was used by the AVForums review in the UK for HDR
> It also uses the DCI-P3 filter (unlike Bright Cinema) and might offer a middle ground performance between Digital Cinema and Bright Cinema


that is exactly what i have allways used for UHD/HDR. Cinema or Digital Cinema with gamma set to +1 
because the DC1-P3 filter are enable on both of these modes. and to my eyes they are the best modes for watching UHD/HDR.
However For SDR. Natural mode is the right one and the one that should be used for SDR. because its the closest to the Rec709.


----------



## panman40

marco1975 said:


> Lesmor said:
> 
> 
> 
> Planet earth 2 does appear to be the UHD/HDR reference
> 
> I am surprised that no one has mentioned or tried Cinema mode for UHD/HDR
> Cinema was used by the AVForums review in the UK for HDR
> It also uses the DCI-P3 filter (unlike Bright Cinema) and might offer a middle ground performance between Digital Cinema and Bright Cinema
> 
> 
> 
> that is exactly what i have allways used for UHD/HDR. Cinema or Digital Cinema with gamma set to +1
> because the DC1-P3 filter are enable on both of these modes. and to my eyes they are the best modes for watching UHD/HDR.
> However For SDR. Natural mode is the right one and the one that should be used for SDR. because its the closest to the Rec709.
Click to expand...

Your very much on the right road using gamma +1.


----------



## Lesmor

marco1975 said:


> that is exactly what i have allways used for UHD/HDR. Cinema or Digital Cinema with gamma set to +1
> because the DC1-P3 filter are enable on both of these modes. and to my eyes they are the best modes for watching UHD/HDR.
> However For SDR. Natural mode is the right one and the one that should be used for SDR. because its the closest to the Rec709.


Agreed Natural mode is also what I use for SDR using Panman40 settings
I only have 4 UHD and have used Harpervison when I watched them
I haven't got round to trying Oledurt's Digital Cinema yet


----------



## panman40

Lesmor said:


> Planet earth 2 does appear to be the UHD/HDR reference
> 
> I am surprised that no one has mentioned or tried Cinema mode for UHD/HDR
> Cinema was used by the AVForums review in the UK for HDR
> It also uses the DCI-P3 filter (unlike Bright Cinema) and might offer a middle ground performance between Digital Cinema and Bright Cinema


It's worth the watch Andy, 

I didn't realise AVF used cinema for HDR. I breifly dialled in by eye cinema mode for SDR, the p3 filter really whacks the brightness but does give improved black levels, i always revert back to natural mode though.


----------



## marco1975

panman40 said:


> I breifly dialled in by eye cinema mode for SDR, the p3 filter really whacks the brightness


That is one of the reason they shoudn,t be used for SDR.
Natural mode is the most accurate and closest to Rec709, so u are right in reverting back to Natural mode for SDR.  
u can still improve the black for Natural mode , if u choose a gamma setting -1 or even -2 , but u might lose alittle bit of shadow details (Depend on your room/set up elc.) but then again u know , nothing is perfect and there will allways be some trade off.


----------



## panman40

marco1975 said:


> That is one of the reason they shoudn,t be used for SDR.
> Natural mode is the most accurate and closest to Rec709, so u are right in reverting back to Natural mode for SDR.
> u can still improve the black for Natural mode , if u choose a gamma setting -1 or even -2 , but u might lose alittle bit of shadow details (Depend on your room/set up elc.) but then again u know , nothing is perfect and there will allways be some trade off.


I used to use filters in front of the lens on my Sony HW40, calibrated it was pretty good. The P3 filter has similar qualities in some respects but I never bothered with the meter unlike Natural mode. I'm a 2.2/2.3 gamma fan, anything darker like 2.4 I struggle with and find it just to dark, that's the case for every display I've had including tv's over the years.

I certainly agree nothing is perfect


----------



## marco1975

panman40 said:


> I'm a 2.2/2.3 gamma fan, anything darker like 2.4 I struggle with and find it just to dark, that's the case for every display I've had including tv's over the years.
> I certainly agree nothing is perfect


I perfectly understand u, and iam also the same way, 2.2/2.3 gamma is the best for my eyes , where u would get decent deep black while still maintaining shadow details. 2.4 gamma and above u will get even deeper black but then u will begin to lose shadows details. its a tough hobby this hoppy i guess, may god help us all


----------



## DrNorm

*Mea culpa.... but misled by Epson*

I am discovering that there really are VERY few situations that this projector can display an HDR signal. (it must be a 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 signal with 10 or 12 bit color depth).

This signal seems to be as rare as a unicorn.

Some Xbox One S users are "saying" that they are watching streams in HDR but the XB1S specs show that it cannot output this signal. (it outputs a 4k/24Hz/4:4:4 signal per the XB1S spec sheet- unless that info is out of date, as I do understand there were firmware updates at some point over past 6-20 months).

Nvidia Shield users say they can get this signal and watch HDR streaming content.

Some 4k DVD players must be able to do this, since many claim to watch 4k discs with HDR.

Granted, this is NOT a native 4k projector, but the bottom line is that there are very few hardware combinations that allow this projector to display HDR content, and for Epson to advertise it as an "HDR capable" projector is "technically true" but extremely misleading.

That is not a make/break point for me, but I really think others should know that and Epson should really be called out for not disclosing that more clearly or providing a specific list of hardware devices which are known to work with this projector (and the pressure to "make that list" might even encourage some manufacturers to upgrade their hardware). I understand that there (we are told) that there is a bandwidth limitation of the HDMI chip on this PJ, but others have stated that this limitation "might" be artificial and that the chipset is fully capable of passing an 18GB stream?

I would also add that ALL of this is "complicated" and, never having owned a 4k TV or HDR capable display, I hadn't given all these specs much consideration before my purchase and I did not fully understand the limitations this would place on my system.


----------



## marco1975

DrNorm said:


> I am discovering that there really are VERY few situations that this projector can display an HDR signal. (it must be a 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 signal with 10 or 12 bit color depth).
> 
> This signal seems to be as rare as a unicorn.
> 
> Some Xbox One S users are "saying" that they are watching streams in HDR but the XB1S specs show that it cannot output this signal. (it outputs a 4k/24Hz/4:4:4 signal per the XB1S spec sheet- unless that info is out of date, as I do understand there were firmware updates at some point over past 6-20 months).
> 
> Nvidia Shield users say they can get this signal and watch HDR streaming content.
> 
> Some 4k DVD players must be able to do this, since many claim to watch 4k discs with HDR.
> 
> Granted, this is NOT a native 4k projector, but the bottom line is that there are very few hardware combinations that allow this projector to display HDR content, and for Epson to advertise it as an "HDR capable" projector is "technically true" but extremely misleading.
> 
> That is not a make/break point for me, but I really think others should know that and Epson should really be called out for not disclosing that more clearly or providing a specific list of hardware devices which are known to work with this projector (and the pressure to "make that list" might even encourage some manufacturers to upgrade their hardware). I understand that there (we are told) that there is a bandwidth limitation of the HDMI chip on this PJ, but others have stated that this limitation "might" be artificial and that the chipset is fully capable of passing an 18GB stream?
> 
> I would also add that ALL of this is "complicated" and, never having owned a 4k TV or HDR. capable display, I hadn't given all these specs much consideration before my purchase and I did not fully understand the limitations this would place on my system.


I perfectly understand u. to be honest there aren,t any real capable HDR. projector out there , just because the projector is HDR. compatible that dosn,t make HDR. capable, they all have their own limitation, and i havn,t seen one yet that can do HDR. without any struggle, at best we are only getting a small taste of what HDR. and this amazing technology can do on a big screen. but to see HDR. in its full glory on a projector , i think its gonna take a few more years, Maybe we will be able to see real HDR. projector in 2-4 years? who know...


----------



## Juiced46

DrNorm said:


> I am discovering that there really are VERY few situations that this projector can display an HDR signal. (it must be a 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 signal with 10 or 12 bit color depth).
> 
> This signal seems to be as rare as a unicorn.
> 
> Some Xbox One S users are "saying" that they are watching streams in HDR but the XB1S specs show that it cannot output this signal. (it outputs a 4k/24Hz/4:4:4 signal per the XB1S spec sheet- unless that info is out of date, as I do understand there were firmware updates at some point over past 6-20 months).


When using Xbox One S and streaming Amazon Prime UHD, Projector info shows 4K/24 4:2:2 12 bit. 

I am going to sign up for Netflix tonight and report back.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Dave Harper said:


> Do you mean SDR as in the actual Signal being sent, or SDR as in sending HDR signal and then manually switching to SDR mode on the projector, like I do for the HarperVision settings?


Yes. The input signal is SDR. (The internal pattern generator of HCFR). However the reference was kept to P3. So the colors are closer to P3.


----------



## JustAnEE

Probably a dumb question but... With phones that stream Netflix hdr (and YouTube hdr) such as s8/s8+/note8. Do They stream hdr through the usb-c? Is this steam (if they do) compatible with the 5040? Is it 4k+hdr?

Has anyone tried this with the projector?

(I am also assuming the Samsung 8 phones support hdmi out. My v20 does, you have to buy an adapter USB-C that has an hdmi port)


----------



## briscocounty

DrNorm said:


> I am discovering that there really are VERY few situations that this projector can display an HDR signal. (it must be a 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 signal with 10 or 12 bit color depth).
> 
> This signal seems to be as rare as a unicorn.
> 
> Some Xbox One S users are "saying" that they are watching streams in HDR but the XB1S specs show that it cannot output this signal. (it outputs a 4k/24Hz/4:4:4 signal per the XB1S spec sheet- unless that info is out of date, as I do understand there were firmware updates at some point over past 6-20 months).
> 
> Nvidia Shield users say they can get this signal and watch HDR streaming content.
> 
> Some 4k DVD players must be able to do this, since many claim to watch 4k discs with HDR.
> 
> Granted, this is NOT a native 4k projector, but the bottom line is that there are very few hardware combinations that allow this projector to display HDR content, and for Epson to advertise it as an "HDR capable" projector is "technically true" but extremely misleading.
> 
> That is not a make/break point for me, but I really think others should know that and Epson should really be called out for not disclosing that more clearly or providing a specific list of hardware devices which are known to work with this projector (and the pressure to "make that list" might even encourage some manufacturers to upgrade their hardware). I understand that there (we are told) that there is a bandwidth limitation of the HDMI chip on this PJ, but others have stated that this limitation "might" be artificial and that the chipset is fully capable of passing an 18GB stream?
> 
> I would also add that ALL of this is "complicated" and, never having owned a 4k TV or HDR capable display, I hadn't given all these specs much consideration before my purchase and I did not fully understand the limitations this would place on my system.


So I don't know very much about this stuff, but I just get an Apple Tv 4k and hooked it up to Epson 5040 UB. The default HDR prompt doesn't work and sends the screen to black until it reverts, but once you go to settings you can set the output to 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 and the HDR seems to work. I haven't calibrated to HDR with harper vision or the others (haven't really had any HDR to try before Apple TV) but I did put it on Bright Cinema and HDR 1 and it looked good for the 4k HDR movies I could access. Hoping this is a good thing, would love to hear from anyone else with Apple TV 4K and more knowledge than me.


----------



## Oledurt

Hello again.

I am still using my Digital Cinema settings for HDR they look great, on all the material I have watched.

keep an eye out I will be posting my ISF settings for Standard blu ray soon... 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Rpmartinez

briscocounty said:


> So I don't know very much about this stuff, but I just get an Apple Tv 4k and hooked it up to Epson 5040 UB. The default HDR prompt doesn't work and sends the screen to black until it reverts, but once you go to settings you can set the output to 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 and the HDR seems to work. I haven't calibrated to HDR with harper vision or the others (haven't really had any HDR to try before Apple TV) but I did put it on Bright Cinema and HDR 1 and it looked good for the 4k HDR movies I could access. Hoping this is a good thing, would love to hear from anyone else with Apple TV 4K and more knowledge than me.


Hey Briscocounty,
Can you please try Netflix and let me know if HDR works thru Netflix.
Thanks


----------



## macmanjpc

Rpmartinez said:


> briscocounty said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I don't know very much about this stuff, but I just get an Apple Tv 4k and hooked it up to Epson 5040 UB. The default HDR prompt doesn't work and sends the screen to black until it reverts, but once you go to settings you can set the output to 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 and the HDR seems to work. I haven't calibrated to HDR with harper vision or the others (haven't really had any HDR to try before Apple TV) but I did put it on Bright Cinema and HDR 1 and it looked good for the 4k HDR movies I could access. Hoping this is a good thing, would love to hear from anyone else with Apple TV 4K and more knowledge than me.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Briscocounty,
> Can you please try Netflix and let me know if HDR works thru Netflix.
> Thanks
Click to expand...

It does. Watching Narcos on Netflix right now.

3840 x 2160
Progressive 
23.97 Hz
12 bit 4:2:2
BT.2020 HDR

Tried a bunch of settings on the AppleTV 4K. Can get 4K 60Hz SDR but max 4K 24Hz HDR. At that setting the video looks pretty good but the AppleTV UI itself, and even the screensavers, are not very smooth ?


----------



## macmanjpc

Correction! I can actually get 4K HDR @ 30 Hz refresh which helps a bit with the smoothness. Next step up in AppleTV settings is 50 Hz and that doesn?t work. Neither does 4:4:4 Chroma.


----------



## briscocounty

Rpmartinez said:


> Hey Briscocounty,
> Can you please try Netflix and let me know if HDR works thru Netflix.
> Thanks


Just got back home, Netflix UI doesn't say HDR for any programs but it plays and looks great with the 24HZ HDR setting on. 30 Hz also works as macmanjpc said but I feel like that made the iTunes 4K HDR movie much more jittery, at 24 hz I don't see a difference in the motion of iTunes movies compared to 60 hz but i don't really understand refresh rates. Hulu doesn't seem to state anything is in 4k in their UI, and neither does iTunes TV shows, and to further complicate things planet earth 2 looks really jittery at either 24 hz or 30 hz on iTunes TV (and looks 1080). Hulu TV show (top of the lake) also looked jittery at 24 hz but movies looked smooth. So to sum up I think movies and many shows (breaking bad-netflix) look great at 24hz HDR but some shows (top of lake-hulu, planet earth 2 - iTunes) have to be 60hz. The apple TV seems to make HDR setting work whether or not there is HDR present but the refresh rate is going to make you want to turn it off for some content.

Edit: also as macmanjpc said 24hz does hurt the apple tv UI and screen saver
Edit 2: the first shot of the alien craft in arrival looks so much better! can't wait to actually try to calibrate HDR but man what an improvement.


----------



## KKfromLA

Hey guys- I FINALLY got the projector and UBD-K8500 all hooked up. Can someone please direct me to some recommended settings for both the player and the projector for optimal PQ? Out of the box, netflix looked pretty good (bright mode), but once I put in an HDR blu ray, it was extremely dark and all around fair PQ. Clearly it needs ton of picture quality adjustments on both... If someone can please help out, I would really appreciate it. It is impossible to browse through hundreds of pages here... TIA!


----------



## briscocounty

Quick question. I believe I installed the latest firmware correctly. on version - video2 it ends in V104 but it still defaults to HDR 2. Any idea why? Is it possible I'm not running latest firmware even if it says V104. Main ends in 106 if thats helpful.


----------



## Rpmartinez

briscocounty said:


> Quick question. I believe I installed the latest firmware correctly. on version - video2 it ends in V104 but it still defaults to HDR 2. Any idea why? Is it possible I'm not running latest firmware even if it says V104. Main ends in 106 if thats helpful.


Latest version is 110 I believe.


----------



## panman40

Now that f/w version 1.10 has been out a while are any changes clearer now ?.


----------



## marco1975

KKfromLA said:


> Hey guys- I FINALLY got the projector and UBD-K8500 all hooked up. Can someone please direct me to some recommended settings for both the player and the projector for optimal PQ? Out of the box, netflix looked pretty good (bright mode), but once I put in an HDR blu ray, it was extremely dark and all around fair PQ. Clearly it needs ton of picture quality adjustments on both... If someone can please help out, I would really appreciate it. It is impossible to browse through hundreds of pages here... TIA!


For SDR. i suggest u use the Natural mode , as its the most Accurate and the closest to Rec709. and for UHD/HDR. either Cinema/Digital cinema mode because the DCI-P3 filter are enable on those mode, just make sure that the HDR. setting is set to (Auto Bright) or HDR 1. on the projector. u also might want to experiment with the gamma setting gamma +1 or 2 , because u might find the picture still look dark for HDR. some people also use Bright cinema mode because it provide more brightness , but its at the expense of color accuracy and black level.


----------



## Kelvin1000

panman40 said:


> Now that f/w version 1.10 has been out a while are any changes clearer now ?.




I too would like to know what changes were made to the 1.10 firmware.


----------



## mase1981

Could anyone get HDR from the netflix APP via XB1S? i couldnt make the netflix app show HDR content at all... no HDR icon on programs that are known to be HDR.


----------



## aaranddeeman

briscocounty said:


> Quick question. I believe I installed the latest firmware correctly. on version - video2 it ends in V104 but it still defaults to HDR 2. Any idea why? Is it possible I'm not running latest firmware even if it says V104. Main ends in 106 if thats helpful.


What is your Auto setting? Make sure it is "Auto(Bright)" and not "Auto"


----------



## viachicago

macmanjpc said:


> Correction! I can actually get 4K HDR @ 30 Hz refresh which helps a bit with the smoothness. Next step up in AppleTV settings is 50 Hz and that doesn?t work. Neither does 4:4:4 Chroma.


I'm getting the same results on my Apple TV 4K. I wonder why we can't get 4K HDR @ 60 Hz - I thought it was supported by the projector?


----------



## Juiced46

panman40 said:


> Now that f/w version 1.10 has been out a while are any changes clearer now ?.





Kelvin1000 said:


> I too would like to know what changes were made to the 1.10 firmware.


I posted a few pages back the firmware details.



mase1981 said:


> Could anyone get HDR from the netflix APP via XB1S? i couldnt make the netflix app show HDR content at all... no HDR icon on programs that are known to be HDR.


I tried last night. When scrolling through the titles they show 4K/HDR but when playing everything came in SDR. Amazon Prime HDR streaming is working though. 



viachicago said:


> I'm getting the same results on my Apple TV 4K. I wonder why we can't get 4K HDR @ 60 Hz - I thought it was supported by the projector?


4K/60hz HDR is not supported


----------



## viachicago

Juiced46 said:


> 4K/60hz HDR is not supported


That'll do it - thanks!


----------



## DrNorm

viachicago said:


> I'm getting the same results on my Apple TV 4K. I wonder why we can't get 4K HDR @ 60 Hz - I thought it was supported by the projector?


4k/60Hz/HDR is NOT supported. (4k/60Hx SDR, is)

on the 5040, HDR is ONLY supported with 2 specific signals: 4k/24Hz with *4:2:2* chroma subsampling *@ 10-bit or 12-bit color
*
(she chart below from 5040 user manual)

XB1S specs says it does not support these signals as an output (*but* some XB1S users claim to be viewing streams in HDR)
*NVIDIA Shield can reportedly output these signals*
It is still not clear to me whether the new Apple TV can output these signals. (there have been mixed reports over past few days)

So, it looks like the Nvidia Shield is the ONLY way view streaming content in HDR- unless there have been changes to the Xbox One S which allow it to also output a 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 10-bit signal. The spec sheet says "no" but some of the forum members say that they are able to now see this.


----------



## Rpmartinez

DrNorm said:


> 4k/60Hz/HDR is NOT supported. (4k/60Hx SDR, is)
> 
> on the 5040, HDR is ONLY supported with 2 specific signals: 4k/24Hz with *4:2:2* chroma subsampling *@ 10-bit or 12-bit color
> *
> (she chart below from 5040 user manual)
> 
> XB1S specs says it does not support these signals as an output (*but* some XB1S users claim to be viewing streams in HDR)
> *NVIDIA Shield can reportedly output these signals*
> It is still not clear to me whether the new Apple TV can output these signals. (there have been mixed reports over past few days)
> 
> So, it looks like the Nvidia Shield is the ONLY way view streaming content in HDR- unless there have been changes to the Xbox One S which allow it to also output a 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 10-bit signal. The spec sheet says "no" but some of the forum members say that they are able to now see this.


Hey DrNorm,
If you read a few posts above yours, you'll see that its been confirmed that the Apple TV can output the necessary signals.


----------



## Juiced46

DrNorm said:


> 4k/60Hz/HDR is NOT supported. (4k/60Hx SDR, is)
> 
> on the 5040, HDR is ONLY supported with 2 specific signals: 4k/24Hz with *4:2:2* chroma subsampling *@ 10-bit or 12-bit color
> *
> (she chart below from 5040 user manual)
> 
> XB1S specs says it does not support these signals as an output (*but* some XB1S users claim to be viewing streams in HDR)
> *NVIDIA Shield can reportedly output these signals*
> It is still not clear to me whether the new Apple TV can output these signals. (there have been mixed reports over past few days)
> 
> So, it looks like the Nvidia Shield is the ONLY way view streaming content in HDR- unless there have been changes to the Xbox One S which allow it to also output a 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 10-bit signal. The spec sheet says "no" but some of the forum members say that they are able to now see this.


Like I mentioned. Xbox One S DOES INDEED do 4K/HDR with Amazon Prime and Blu Ray viewing. Netflix is not working for me. Here is a picture I took for verification.


----------



## DrNorm

Rpmartinez said:


> Hey DrNorm,
> If you read a few posts above yours, you'll see that its been confirmed that the Apple TV can output the necessary signals.


Yes! I agree. I did see that but then the person I was replying to said he could not. 1 point of confusion is whether that person was using the Apple TV 4 or the "new 4k". It seems that there has been a lot of confusion over the term "4" and whether it is referring to a model number (in regards to any number of devices, e.g., the Roku 4) or a 4k capable device!

I am hoping that we will soon have a consensus of what can't/can't be done.

One of the earlier posts mention viewing a show with "HDR settings on the projector" and that it "looked great" but there was no indication that the signal being used was an HDR signal!'
'
We all have a lot of learning to do, here.


----------



## DrNorm

Juiced46 said:


> Like I mentioned. Xbox One S DOES INDEED do 4K/HDR with Amazon Prime and Blu Ray viewing. Netflix is not working for me. Here is a picture I took for verification.


AWESOME job.
many thanks. 

interesting that on X Box One's actual website, the specs pages specifically show that the box CAN'T do this!!! I guess you proved them wrong!


----------



## briscocounty

I have a couple of minutes to play around with Apple TV 4K and 5040UB if any one has any questions or requests. I believe their was a big difference in PQ when I had 24hz HDR 4:2:2 enabled and was watching iTunes movies labeled as either "Dolby Vision" or "HDR" vs 4K 60Hz SDR but I'm new to HDR and was having to change a lot of settings in between views so I can't be 100% sure what I was seeing. Anyway feel free to shoot me some questions or some instructions on how to confirm output and I'll do best I can to help out.

Edit: And FYI turns out i did not have latest firmware, just got it installed and now have it set to Autobright which i guess defaults to HDR 1. If anyone else is trouble shooting, my issue was USB stick was not formatted to MSDOS (FAT) and update was not performing


----------



## theuserdylan

Upgrade report:

I recently upgraded from the Sony HW40ES to the Epson 5040UBE. Is the upgrade worth it? Yes. 

I provide this report in case anyone is searching through forums (like I was for weeks) and trying to make a similar decision.

I was hesitating between the Epson 5040 and new Sony 285ES.
I liked that the Sony 285ES was basically my existing projector, which I liked, but 4K.

I didn’t like that the Sony threw a smaller image than the EPSON 5040 (and the HW40ES), cost twice as much, was less bright than the EPSON 5040 (and the HW40ES), had no dynamic iris, and that I would have to run a cable because it couldn’t do wireless like 5040UBE.

I liked that the Sony was true 4K and could do 60Hz 4k HDR.

I choose the Epson after calculating that I would need to sit 8 feet from a 130 inch screen to resolve all of the detail of 4K (I sit 15 feet.). I figured at my seating distance better to have a bigger, brighter screen, with better black levels than extra sharpness that my eyes can’t necessarily even resolve.

Now, I haven’t actually tested the Sony to confirm I made the right decision, but very pleased with the Epson so far. The Epson is noticeably sharper even when upscaling 1080P content. It also has better contrast. I was wondering if I would notice the better black levels that the dynamic iris level allows in my setup. I have poor ambient lighting control: white walls and I don’t have a screen. However, the contrast ratio is noticeably better.

The thing that really sold me on this device is 4K streaming content. I watched some Netflix Originals in 4K and the same content in 1080P. Giant leap in quality. The Netflix 4K stuff looks better than an upscaled blu-ray to my eyes. Whereas, the 1080P stuff looks far worse than a blu-ray. Obviously, the bitrates are a huge factor here. I’m sure if you could get 25 mbps with a 1080 projector it would look a lot better than 6 or so you get with 1080p, but Netflix won’t give you those bitrates unless you have a 4K device. The point is the 5040 allows you to get those good streams and makes the upgrade well worth it to me. 

I also tried some Amazon 4k HDR stuff with default HDR settings. It look great as well - noticeably better than a blu-ray.

The one thing that the Sony did better was accurate color out of the box. I haven’t done much with calibration, but I found that the Sony had better skin tones than any of the default settings on Epson. I haven’t noticed any difference in motion, which is another thing some people complain about with the Epson.

In total, I highly recommend the 5040 if you are considering an upgrade from a 1080p projector like HW40ES.







Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## WildThing

Juiced46 said:


> Like I mentioned. Xbox One S DOES INDEED do 4K/HDR with Amazon Prime and Blu Ray viewing. Netflix is not working for me. Here is a picture I took for verification.


Problem is that the app is still not available in Canada  

It just released on PS3/PS4, I hope that the Xbox version will follow soon. I don't understand why they don't release it. Amazon Prime is available in Canada since November 2016.


----------



## ChrisRex

For anyone interested, Reading from the AppleTV 4K:


----------



## seplant

swyda038 said:


> I've tried every one of the UHD/HDR settings that have been graciously provided by Harper, Oledurt's, and several other people on this forum (Thank You!), yet when I put in a blu-ray disc of the same movie I end up seeing equal or better overall image quality results with the bluray in Natural mode - Auto Bright HDR1 then with a UHD disc of the same movie using the aforementioned UHD settings. I don't have any calibration equipment to actually test results more scientifically, but just going off of visual comparison. Does anyone else have very similar image quality results or better with a blu-ray then UHD on this projector? I have a samsung 8500k player and a Yamaha RX-V679BL. Just wondering if I am missing something here.


I'm right with you on this! I've tried everybody's HDR settings, had my projector calibrated, continually tweak settings, and then go back and forth between the UHD and standard blu-ray versions straining to see any advantage of the UHD image. It just isn't worth it. This projector just is not capable of displaying HDR, WCG, or 4K for that matter anywhere near their full potential. Upscaled standard blu-ray is what really shines on this projector. It just boils down to needing a much brighter display device to make UHD look significantly better than blu-ray. And such a device doesn't exist at a price point less than the cost of my house for the image size I'm currently watching. So for now I'll just continue to enjoy my standard and 3D blu-rays. They really do look spectacular on this projector!


----------



## Dave Harper

Then you don't have HarperVision set right.


----------



## marco1975

seplant said:


> I'm right with you on this! I've tried everybody's HDR settings, had my projector calibrated, continually tweak settings, and then go back and forth between the UHD and standard blu-ray versions straining to see any advantage of the UHD image. It just isn't worth it. This projector just is not capable of displaying HDR, WCG, or 4K for that matter anywhere near their full potential. Upscaled standard blu-ray is what really shines on this projector. It just boils down to needing a much brighter display device to make UHD look significantly better than blu-ray. And such a device doesn't exist at a price point less than the cost of my house for the image size I'm currently watching. So for now I'll just continue to enjoy my standard and 3D blu-rays. They really do look spectacular on this projector!


Just because a projector is HDR. compatible , it dosn,t make it HDR. capable, the fact is there are no true capable HDR. projector , and i havn,t seen one yet that can display HDR. without a struggle, they all have their limitation. and its gonna take sometime before we see a proper capable HDR. projector.
No matter whos setting u try not even if u hire an isf calibrator , its not going to save the day, simply put projectors still dosn,t have what it takes when it come to HDR. 
in saying that personaly i could see some improvment in UHD/HDR. over SDR. on this projector , but its only subtle, and not without trade off.


----------



## ht guy

KKfromLA said:


> Hey guys- I FINALLY got the projector and UBD-K8500 all hooked up. Can someone please direct me to some recommended settings for both the player and the projector for optimal PQ? Out of the box, netflix looked pretty good (bright mode), but once I put in an HDR blu ray, it was extremely dark and all around fair PQ. Clearly it needs ton of picture quality adjustments on both... If someone can please help out, I would really appreciate it. It is impossible to browse through hundreds of pages here... TIA!


Try this...


----------



## Viche

marco1975 said:


> Just because a projector is HDR. compatible , it dosn,t make it HDR. capable, the fact is there are no true capable HDR. projector , and i havn,t seen one yet that can display HDR. without a struggle, they all have their limitation. and its gonna take sometime before we see a proper capable HDR. projector.
> No matter whos setting u try not even if u hire an isf calibrator , its not going to save the day, simply put projectors still dosn,t have what it takes when it come to HDR.
> in saying that personaly i could see some improvment in UHD/HDR. over SDR. on this projector , but its only subtle, and not without trade off.


True, but 18 gbps hdmi chipsets are a reality today, and Epson chose not to use them.

It's the only reason I haven't purchased this projector yet. That choice alone is causing people lots of wasted time and frustration tinkering instead of enjoying their projector.


----------



## Lesmor

marco1975 said:


> Just because a projector is HDR. compatible , it dosn,t make it HDR. capable, the fact is there are no true capable HDR. projector , and i havn,t seen one yet that can display HDR. without a struggle, they all have their limitation. and its gonna take sometime before we see a proper capable HDR. projector.
> No matter whos setting u try not even if u hire an isf calibrator , its not going to save the day, simply put projectors still dosn,t have what it takes when it come to HDR.
> in saying that personaly i could see some improvment in UHD/HDR. over SDR. on this projector , but its only subtle, and not without trade off.


Good points but unfortunately there is another trade off
Those who want the Dolby Atmos soundtrack are being forced into buying UHD
Not so much a problem if you use a TV but for projector users you have to either try and squeeze the best out of HDR or down convert to 1080P


----------



## nemesis9

I plan on using a Epson 5040ub for a 2.35 ratio fixed screen. Someone told me not to do that without an anamorphic lens because I will loose a lot of resolution. Is this true? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


----------



## raf77

No.


----------



## marco1975

Lesmor said:


> Good points but unfortunately there is another trade off
> Those who want the Dolby Atmos soundtrack are being forced into buying UHD
> Not so much a problem if you use a TV but for projector users you have to either try and squeeze the best out of HDR or down convert to 1080P


personally iam ok. with these trade off for now. 
its funny u have mentioned Dolby Atmos soundtrack, actaully it was one of the main reasons that i was forced to upgrade to UHD


----------



## ht guy

Lesmor said:


> Good points but unfortunately there is another trade off
> Those who want the Dolby Atmos soundtrack are being forced into buying UHD
> Not so much a problem if you use a TV but for projector users you have to either try and squeeze the best out of HDR or down convert to 1080P


Usually true, though was happy to have two netflix blu-rays have atmos - Kong Skull Island and Warcraft, as I recall.


----------



## Juiced46

Dave Harper said:


> Then you don't have HarperVision set right.


I agree, if you cannot see a difference between HDR and no HDR there is a huge problem. Something is not right, either settings are way wrong, or you are not even getting an HDR signal when you think you are getting one.


----------



## hnupe

*Apple TV 4K Question*

Can the Epson do 4:4:4? I tried the HDR and it says it can't display in 4:4:4 HDR?

I can get 4:4:0 however. Feedback please?


----------



## Copeland

Searched the thread and couldn't find answers to these:

How many hours do I need on this projector before I can have it calibrated. I'm assuming 200 or so?

Also, does anyone have any recommendations for an ISF calibrator for the 5040ub in the Los Angeles area?


----------



## philipbtz

hnupe said:


> Can the Epson do 4:4:4? I tried the HDR and it says it can't display in 4:4:4 HDR?
> 
> I can get 4:4:0 however. Feedback please?


It can do 1080p 60Hz 4:4:4 HDR 12b if you have a linker. So yeah basically anything 1080p it will do 4:4:4 but for 4k it will only support 4:2:2 24Hz 10b. At 4k 60Hz it's 4:2:0 8b. Since most devices are retarted and you can't set these sort of things the best is to just buy a Linker and put that between your AVR and projector.


----------



## marco1975

Viche said:


> True, but 18 gbps hdmi chipsets are a reality today, and Epson chose not to use them.


That two. but trust me it takes alot morethan just a 18gbps chipset for a projector to display a proper HDR.


----------



## Viche

marco1975 said:


> That two. but trust me it takes alot morethan just a 18gbps chipset for a projector to display a proper HDR.


I understand, but the hdmi gimpset is like a blow to the knees at the start of a race.

How much more would it have cost them to include the right part?


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

seplant said:


> I'm right with you on this! I've tried everybody's HDR settings, had my projector calibrated, continually tweak settings, and then go back and forth between the UHD and standard blu-ray versions straining to see any advantage of the UHD image. It just isn't worth it. This projector just is not capable of displaying HDR, WCG, or 4K for that matter anywhere near their full potential. Upscaled standard blu-ray is what really shines on this projector. It just boils down to needing a much brighter display device to make UHD look significantly better than blu-ray. And such a device doesn't exist at a price point less than the cost of my house for the image size I'm currently watching. So for now I'll just continue to enjoy my standard and 3D blu-rays. They really do look spectacular on this projector!


I wonder if we speak about the same machine 
HDR / WCG is what you can appreciate on this PJ. It makes a difference especially if you check out how it looks with competition.

I would say it is the matter of few things:

- projector settings
- UHD content 
- projection distance to the screen (as close a possible using highest zoom rates, which gives you extra brightnes)

In my case I like the effect so much that I prefer watching UHD than regular blu rays. I compared also UHD/HDR with my TV which is quite bright - so I have some perspective.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Viche said:


> I understand, but the hdmi gimpset is like a blow to the knees at the start of a race.
> 
> How much more would it have cost them to include the right part?


It's not the cost of the part, but the cost of the support that they would have to do (due to HDMI cable issues in longer lengths, and cables are most likely longer in PJ world), and the defame the product would have got for no particular issue in itself.
And also as I understand except gaming the current commercial movie UHD only uses 4:2:0.
So yeah, Epson did a wise thing, I must say.


----------



## WildThing

nemesis9 said:


> I plan on using a Epson 5040ub for a 2.35 ratio fixed screen. Someone told me not to do that without an anamorphic lens because I will loose a lot of resolution. Is this true?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk


I have a dual screen setup that I use with lens memory. A 106" 16:9 electric screen over a 115" 2.35:1 fixed screen. I'm amazed by the quality if the image each time. Don't worry with that and keep you money for something esle. I think that the lens cost more than the projector... It make no sense on for a projector in this price range.


----------



## Viche

aaranddeeman said:


> It's not the cost of the part, but the cost of the support that they would have to do (due to HDMI cable issues in longer lengths, and cables are most likely longer in PJ world), and the defame the product would have got for no particular issue in itself.
> And also as I understand except gaming the current commercial movie UHD only uses 4:2:0.
> So yeah, Epson did a wise thing, I must say.


Wait so the percentage of customers they would need to support with cable problems would be greater than the percentage of customers they currently support with chipset limitation problems? It seems the prior would be a smaller subset of the latter.

Also it's better for the product to get justified defamation (due to inherent chipset limitations) vs unjustified defamation due to users who don't understand cable limitations?

Crazy.


----------



## azula

So how many settings are you guys rocking for this PJ? 1 for HDR, 1 for SDR 4K, 1 for SDR 1080P, and 1 for 3D? Seems complicated but I will make it work if that's the only option.


----------



## Dave Harper

You should be able to combine the 4K and 1080p SDR into one calibration. I was able to and used Natural Mode.


----------



## Frohlich

Hopefully I don't get yelled at here for not doing my own homework but here it goes. I tried searching this thread and the forum and saw nothing (which probably means there is nothing). Any rumors or news of the next generation of Epson projectors....something replacing the 5040/6040? I just ordered the XBOX one X as my XBOX one died several weeks ago. This will bring 4K gaming and would like to take advantage of it as well as maybe starting to get into 4K movies . I am perfectly happy with my Sony HW65 1080P projector and don't feel like dropping 8K on the Sony 385 projector. Something under 5K would be much easier on the wallet 

Update: I did find a post on this thread that said since nothing was shown at Cedia that likely would be no replacement for at least one year (Cedia 2018).


----------



## Juiced46

aaranddeeman said:


> It's not the cost of the part, but the cost of the support that they would have to do (due to HDMI cable issues in longer lengths, and cables are most likely longer in PJ world), and the defame the product would have got for no particular issue in itself.
> And also as I understand except gaming the current commercial movie UHD only uses 4:2:0.
> So yeah, Epson did a wise thing, I must say.


How is it a wise thing? I do alot of gaming using the projector and purchased/upgraded to it for the sole reason of the upcoming Xbox One X and my current Xbox One S which supports HDR. If I knew it wouldnt do HDR AT ALL while gaming, I would have kept my 5025 and not have taken a massive loss on it. I feel like I got hit with a massive "false advertisement" buying this projector. Epson advertises as an HDR projector. In their product details there should be an * with its limitations for HDR on their ads if it cannot. Just like the 4Ke, they clearly state it is not 4K. They should have done the same for HDR. 



azula said:


> So how many settings are you guys rocking for this PJ? 1 for HDR, 1 for SDR 4K, 1 for SDR 1080P, and 1 for 3D? Seems complicated but I will make it work if that's the only option.


I have 2 HDR settings. Oledurt and Harpers posted settings tweaked to my room. 1 for SDR gaming, 1080P Blu Rays and Cable TV. HDR gaming on PS4 I use my HDR movie settings and they work great.


----------



## marco1975

Frohlich said:


> Hopefully I don't get yelled at here for not doing my own homework but here it goes. I tried searching this thread and the forum and saw nothing (which probably means there is nothing). Any rumors or news of the next generation of Epson projectors....something replacing the 5040/6040? I just ordered the XBOX one X as my XBOX one died several weeks ago. This will bring 4K gaming and would like to take advantage of it as well as maybe starting to get into 4K movies . I am perfectly happy with my Sony HW65 1080P projector and don't feel like dropping 8K on the Sony 385 projector. Something under 5K would be much easier on the wallet


Don,t know anything about upcoming models, but i could give u a friendly advice, if i were u , i would just keep the Sony HW65 for now(its a fantastic projector). i have had a Jvc dla-x35 sold it and bought the Epson5040/6040 and i wish i didn,t. not that the Epson is bad or the Jvc is better , but it didn,t feel like an upgrade at all. 
Why don,t u consider something like the SonyPL-VW285ES? is cost 5k as far as i know but then u get your self a a true (Native 4k) projector.


----------



## bytebuster

ChrisRex said:


> For anyone interested, Reading from the AppleTV 4K:


24hz? Hmmm... That is a surprise.
Any thoughts on the quality of the 4k itunes streams. Do they look at least as good as a 1080p blu ray?


----------



## ChrisRex

bytebuster said:


> 24hz? Hmmm... That is a surprise.
> Any thoughts on the quality of the 4k itunes streams. Do they look at least as good as a 1080p blu ray?



I was just as surprised as you were with the options I found on the new Apple TV. And that image I posted shows that it is technically an even better HDR chroma connection than through my nvidia shield! I cannot tell you much about itunes stream as I mainly have been using it for Netflix and as a media server reader for a NAS drive. I am an Apple tech/ consultant, and will admit USUALLY Apple has a nice, simple user interface (which is still true) but not a lot of tweakability; they're definitely added some 'pro' options this time around...


----------



## Frohlich

marco1975 said:


> Don,t know anything about upcoming models, but i could give u a friendly advice, if i were u , i would just keep the Sony HW65 for now(its a fantastic projector). i have had a Jvc dla-x35 sold it and bought the Epson5040/6040 and i wish i didn,t. not that the Epson is bad or the Jvc is better , but it didn,t feel like an upgrade at all.
> Why don,t u consider something like the SonyPL-VW285ES? is cost 5k as far as i know but then u get your self a a true (Native 4k) projector.


Thanks for the response. I am considering the Sony 285 but all the current projectors under $8k seem to be compromising something (HDR implementation, lumens, 18gb HDMI, true 4k panel,etc...). The Sony seems like good bang for the buck but has no Dynamic Iris, 13gb HDMI and 1500 lumens...which isn't really enough for good HDR. Would rather throw $3k to 4K at a compromise than $5k to 8k


----------



## hnupe

*Follow-up Question on Apple 4k TV*



philipbtz said:


> It can do 1080p 60Hz 4:4:4 HDR 12b if you have a linker. So yeah basically anything 1080p it will do 4:4:4 but for 4k it will only support 4:2:2 24Hz 10b. At 4k 60Hz it's 4:2:0 8b. Since most devices are retarted and you can't set these sort of things the best is to just buy a Linker and put that between your AVR and projector.



What is a linker? A pic or link please.

Thanks


----------



## Chris the Rock

hnupe said:


> What is a linker? A pic or link please.
> 
> Thanks


I think this is a "linker". 
https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/

I don't have one, but I had this question several months ago.


----------



## Chris the Rock

Hi fellow enthusiasts:
Check out Episode 372 of Home Theater Geeks. "HDR Deep Dive"


----------



## marco1975

Frohlich said:


> Thanks for the response. I am considering the Sony 285 but all the current projectors under $8k seem to be compromising something (HDR implementation, lumens, 18gb HDMI, true 4k panel,etc...). The Sony seems like good bang for the buck but has no Dynamic Iris, 13gb HDMI and 1500 lumens...which isn't really enough for good HDR. Would rather throw $3k to 4K at a compromise than $5k to 8k


don,t know if u notes it, but to be honest that is exactly what i have been saying over and over again, there are no projector that can dispaly HDR. without a struggle and compromise at this price range, but i thought with the sony 285, u could at least enjoy the benefits of the higher Native 4k res. 
in saying that then i think the Epson is a good candidate in this price range.


----------



## Rob Simkow

I'm sure this has been covered somewhere in the 353 pages of this thread (I've tried searching to no avail) but can someone please clarify the xbox one S situation. I have the 6040 model with what I purchased as all high speed HDMI cables with a denon 6200w in between the xbox and the projector. I can select all options in the xbox video settings (allow 4k, allow ycc 4:2:2, etc.) but no matter what I do, I can get the allow HDR button to select (it remains gray). I've tried 8 bit, 10 bit, and 12 bit color with the same results. Even with the 4k setting enabled, it doesn't appear netflix or amazon prime apps are streaming in 4k either. Hopefully the xbox one X will be easier when it's released.

In the meantime, any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## cchrono

Rob Simkow said:


> I'm sure this has been covered somewhere in the 353 pages of this thread (I've tried searching to no avail) but can someone please clarify the xbox one S situation. I have the 6040 model with what I purchased as all high speed HDMI cables with a denon 6200w in between the xbox and the projector. I can select all options in the xbox video settings (allow 4k, allow ycc 4:2:2, etc.) but no matter what I do, I can get the allow HDR button to select (it remains gray). I've tried 8 bit, 10 bit, and 12 bit color with the same results. Even with the 4k setting enabled, it doesn't appear netflix or amazon prime apps are streaming in 4k either. Hopefully the xbox one X will be easier when it's released.
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime, any help would be greatly appreciated.




Make sure that your Xbox is hooked up to a 2.2 hdmi port. I had mine hooked through my receiver and did not at first. Once I switched was able to get hdr on the one s. You can get hdr on amazon and uhd blurays and just 4K on Netflix(seems like Netflix should be able to update their app to support this since amazon can)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Rob Simkow

Did a quick search and it appears all of the hdmi ports on teh denon 6200w are hdmi 2.0 / hdcp 2.2 compliant. Although the xbox is outputing at a 4k resolution (upscaled I assume), I don't see the ability to stream 4k through Netflix or Amazon (nor HDR). Just for giggles, I switched the hdmi cable to a different port and the allow hdr button in the xbox still remains gray.


----------



## cchrono

Rob Simkow said:


> Did a quick search and it appears all of the hdmi ports on teh denon 6200w are hdmi 2.0 / hdcp 2.2 compliant. Although the xbox is outputing at a 4k resolution (upscaled I assume), I don't see the ability to stream 4k through Netflix or Amazon (nor HDR). Just for giggles, I switched the hdmi cable to a different port and the allow hdr button in the xbox still remains gray.




Are you sure that you don’t have to change any settings on the receiver? Also are you sure that the hdmi output you are using is 2.0


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Rob Simkow

I guess I'm not entirely sure. I'm using the hdmi port on the xbox labeled "hdmi out to tv" which appears to be the only output. I'm assuming everything is 2.0 since the xbox does recognize and allow 4k, just not HDR. Regarding the receiver, I believe I've been through every setting looking for anything obvious but clearly I'm missing something.


----------



## mb1985

*Cleaning the lens*

What can I use and not use to clean this particular model?

Is it ok if I use a dust off can to clean the dust off ?


----------



## cchrono

Rob Simkow said:


> I guess I'm not entirely sure. I'm using the hdmi port on the xbox labeled "hdmi out to tv" which appears to be the only output. I'm assuming everything is 2.0 since the xbox does recognize and allow 4k, just not HDR. Regarding the receiver, I believe I've been through every setting looking for anything obvious but clearly I'm missing something.




I mean on the receiver are you using the main hdmi out that has A.R.C or are using another one. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## achanonier

HI there

I've been reading some comments about how std Blu Ray is the way to go...
I' can't roger that...

Yesterday night I reviewed a lot of disk ABing Std Bluray on my PS4 and the UHD on my Panny.
- Bright films as Deadpool and Kingsman
- Darker films as The Revenat, BVS, Ghost in he Shell
- Pacific Rim, Mad MAx, Star Treck

I did not find a single time that the Std Blu Ray was superior.

The UHD always was much more detailed, you can clearly see the improved resolution.
Improved dark scene visbility, highlights... Some times the movies are a little darker, sometime brighter, sometime as bright but always the picture seemed deeper, richer and more realistic.

I ended up watching the UHD release of Blade Runner that I bought yesterday. 
That's my all time favourite, it's the seventh copy of the film I own (2 VHS, 2 DVDs, 2BR), I'm very picky about its visuals.
And I must say I was blown way, the previous Blu Ray just look like a DVD now to my eyes...
The increased details are incredible, incky blakcs, great highlights, poping neons, the scene at Tyrell when Deckard meets Rachel, the hunt for Zora...
Again I ABed it with the std BR and its not even comparable. The UHD wins hand down. (And I don't even talk about the ATMOS soundtrack)

So just to say If you have HDR set up correctly results are very very good with this PJ!


----------



## NoTechi

*Experience since I bought this projector*

Hi all,

wanted to share my experience since I bought the projector. It reminds me of upgrading one part of your PC. It typically is forcing you to update other parts as well to get the best out of it.

My setup is:
EPSON EH-TW9300W (European wireless version calibrated by the reseller)
Marantz SR7012 A/V Receiver (all devices connected by HDMI)
X Box One S (used for UHD, BlueRay and gaming)
Nvidea Shield (used for Netflix, Amazon)
Intel NUC with Windows 10 (used for windows 10 on the projector)
HD Fury Linker
Logitech Harmony Hub (to control all of this by just one remote)

The linker is between the wireless transmitter and second HDMI out of the Marantz. I only use this for longer X Box HDR gaming sessions. For just a game in between I use the wired setup without HDR support.
Marantz first HDMI out is going directly by HDMI cable to the projector. I use this for everything else (same results as the wireless connection but with way less device link delays)

For HDR content I use Oledurt and Harper settings I am still struggeling which one I like most. Lately I tend to use Harper settings more often especially if my room is not totally dark.
For SDR and 3D I use a preset from my reseller (can't post them since they are kinda under his "copyright")

So looking back I don't regret anything. I really like what I get out of this setup. The only thing which I might skip if I would start all over right now would be eventually the linker and the wireless version of the projector since it's too much trouble and still not getting the full 4k HDR 60Hz result for gaming (just 1080p HDR 60Hz).

Not sure what to do once the XBox One X comes out. I might go for a new projector one day but none of them which got announced at latest IFA fully convinced me even though the price went down for some true 4k projectors (Acer, Sony). I might need to visit my reseller to have a comparison to check if it would be worth it.

NoTechi


----------



## budeliao

panman40 said:


> I don't suppose he mentioned why the Epson has occasional 1 minute high fan / no image start ups from cold ?. I just don't see the point of cooling an already cold lamp !.


Was searching thru the thread today as I have had this happen a few times. Last night it went thru a minute or two of this and then the lamp error light lit up and projector powered off. I unplug and replug and turned it on with no issue. Any similar experiences? Seems a very odd behavior.

Thanks.


----------



## Stephen1254

*Ideal Projector Position?*

Construction starts in less than two weeks on the home theater room. I'm installing a reinforced area in the ceiling for a projector mount, and trying to determine the best position for the projector. I'm looking at using an Epson 5040ub, and a 120" 16:9 screen with 1.0 gain. I have the ability to position the bottom of the screen as low as 20" off the floor. The room is fully light controlled, but will have lighter beiges and blues for colors.

I'm looking at 2 positions for the projector, both roughly 8' off the floor, one with the lens 12' 6" from the screen, and the other 14' 6" from the screen. The former position will create a brighter image, but use more lens shift and zoom.

My question revolves around that trade off, using more or less lens shift and zoom. Is there a loss in picture quality as you use more lens shift and zoom? I also can raise the screen higher off the floor, which would use less lens shift, but I'm thinking that I'd like to keep the center of the screen closer to eye level.


----------



## Juiced46

Rob Simkow said:


> I guess I'm not entirely sure. I'm using the hdmi port on the xbox labeled "hdmi out to tv" which appears to be the only output. I'm assuming everything is 2.0 since the xbox does recognize and allow 4k, just not HDR. Regarding the receiver, I believe I've been through every setting looking for anything obvious but clearly I'm missing something.



Something is not right if HDR is greyed out on the Xbox, it should indeed work. 

Do you have "Allow 4:2:2" checked?

Start off doing a HARD reset of your Xbox. (This will not erase anything)

Have you tried going from the Xbox directly to the Epson bypassing the AVR to eliminate a cable issue?

Are you connected to the correct HDMI port#1 for HDCP 2.2 on the Epson itself?

Check your video settings within the AVR and make sure you have no sort of scalers or conversions going on. 

What does it say in the "details" section of the video parameters where it checks off which signals it is accepting?

With all that being said, you still will not get HDR gaming, but you will get HDR in Amazon and Blu Rays.


----------



## panman40

budeliao said:


> panman40 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't suppose he mentioned why the Epson has occasional 1 minute high fan / no image start ups from cold ?. I just don't see the point of cooling an already cold lamp !.
> 
> 
> 
> Was searching thru the thread today as I have had this happen a few times. Last night it went thru a minute or two of this and then the lamp error light lit up and projector powered off. I unplug and replug and turned it on with no issue. Any similar experiences? Seems a very odd behavior.
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yes, that happened to me and I gave the call to Epson who then sent me a New lamp.


----------



## Juiced46

NoTechi said:


> Hi all,
> 
> wanted to share my experience since I bought the projector. It reminds me of upgrading one part of your PC. It typically is forcing you to update other parts as well to get the best out of it.
> 
> My setup is:
> EPSON EH-TW9300W (European wireless version calibrated by the reseller)
> Marantz SR7012 A/V Receiver (all devices connected by HDMI)
> X Box One S (used for UHD, BlueRay and gaming)
> Nvidea Shield (used for Netflix, Amazon)
> Intel NUC with Windows 10 (used for windows 10 on the projector)
> HD Fury Linker
> Logitech Harmony Hub (to control all of this by just one remote)
> 
> The linker is between the wireless transmitter and second HDMI out of the Marantz. I only use this for longer X Box HDR gaming sessions. For just a game in between I use the wired setup without HDR support.
> Marantz first HDMI out is going directly by HDMI cable to the projector. I use this for everything else (same results as the wireless connection but with way less device link delays)
> 
> For HDR content I use Oledurt and Harper settings I am still struggeling which one I like most. Lately I tend to use Harper settings more often especially if my room is not totally dark.
> For SDR and 3D I use a preset from my reseller (can't post them since they are kinda under his "copyright")
> 
> So looking back I don't regret anything. I really like what I get out of this setup. The only thing which I might skip if I would start all over right now would be eventually the linker and the wireless version of the projector since it's too much trouble and still not getting the full 4k HDR 60Hz result for gaming (just 1080p HDR 60Hz).
> 
> Not sure what to do once the XBox One X comes out. I might go for a new projector one day but none of them which got announced at latest IFA fully convinced me even though the price went down for some true 4k projectors (Acer, Sony). I might need to visit my reseller to have a comparison to check if it would be worth it.
> 
> NoTechi



Great info. The linker with the Xbox One S was one of the things I had questions about. Its good to see you are getting HDR with it even though it is 1080p. How do you like the HDR image when gaming in 1080P vs no HDR with 4K? I know with the PS4 Pro, for me 1080P HDR looks phenomenal compared to 4K with no HDR. 

I am on the fence about the linker. I was going to buy one, but the Xbox One X will be out soon. I think I will wait to see how the new system does with this projector and hopefully there are more video setting options like the PS4 Pro to handle HDR, at this point, if I can get 1080P/HDR I will be satisfied since I know now (unfortunately) that we cannot do 4k/60 HDR gaming.


----------



## cchrono

Juiced46 said:


> Something is not right if HDR is greyed out on the Xbox, it should indeed work.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have "Allow 4:2:2" checked?
> 
> 
> 
> Start off doing a HARD reset of your Xbox. (This will not erase anything)
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried going from the Xbox directly to the Epson bypassing the AVR to eliminate a cable issue?
> 
> 
> 
> Are you connected to the correct HDMI port on the Epson itself?
> 
> 
> 
> Check your video settings within the AVR and make sure you have no sort of scalers or conversions going on.
> 
> 
> 
> What does it say in the "details" section of the video parameters where it checks off which signals it is accepting?
> 
> 
> 
> With all that being said, you still will not get HDR gaming, but you will get HDR in Amazon and Blu Rays.




Forgot about the port on the Epson as well only hdmi 1 supports hdcp 2.2


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## pheek1g

This is killing me. I'm stuck deciding between the 5040 and the uhd65. The main reason why I'm stuck is because of UHD65's true 4k capability. The 5040 has all the nice features like lens memory, motorized lens cover, gorgeous colors, better blacks, better input lag. Is the difference in 4k dramatically better on the UHD65 or can you still get that mouth water sharpness on the 5040 as well? I will be gaming, and occasional movies but I want that option to watch 4k content and appreciate the quality.


----------



## Juiced46

cchrono said:


> Forgot about the port on the Epson as well only hdmi 1 supports hdcp 2.2
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



I mentioned it but was not fully detailed, I stated the correct HDMI port, that is what I meant. I edited my post.


----------



## Mar-Vell

Hello everyone,

I just picked up the 5040UB a few weeks ago and it?s my first projector. So far I am really enjoying it as I?ve always wanted a really big screen!

I am a bit unsure of the cable I?m using, though. The place I bought it at assured me that it would do the job, but I can?t help but wonder as it does not say anything about HDR on the packaging. How can I check to see if the projector is receiving 4K HDR and is outputting Enhanced 4K HDR?

When I look in the menu under Image > Image Enhancement, it says ?4K?, but it?s greyed out and I can?t select to change anything. Am I correct to assume that it is greyed out and can?t be changed because the projector is in fact receiving a 4K signal?

Also, under ?Projector Info? it says Resolution - 3840 x 2160. Does this mean that this is the resolution that the projector is receiving or is this stating what the projector is capable of?


----------



## Chris the Rock

pheek1g said:


> Is the difference in 4k dramatically better on the UHD65


Maybe reading this page from a UHD65 review on ProjectorReviews.com will help: http://www.projectorreviews.com/optoma/optoma-uhd65-4k-uhd-home-theater-projector-picture-quality/

Spoiler alert: No, it isn't dramatically better. 

As an Epson owner in the Epson owner's thread, though I think someone would be happy with either of these - you mentioned that you'd do gaming on it. I have to say the Epson is wonderful for gaming - 4K/HDR/60Hz issues notwithstanding. 
(edited - posted prematurely).


----------



## pheek1g

Chris the Rock said:


> Maybe reading this page from a UHD65 review on ProjectorReviews.com will help.
> 
> Spoiler alert: No, it isn't dramatically better.
> 
> As an Epson owner in the Epson owner's thread, though I think someone would be happy with either of these - you mentioned that you'd do gaming on it. I have to say the Epson is wonderful for gaming - 4K/HDR/60Hz issues notwithstanding.
> (edited - posted prematurely).


Thanks for the reply. I've only heard good things about the 5040. I bought a BENQ 3050 as a beginner projector awhile ago and want to upgrade. I just want to appreciate the 4k quality and HDR isn't a priority for me, if it works.. great. If not, oh well. Even 1080p will be and upgrade from my BENQ. Considering this is a much bigger projector, is there a reliable and affordable mount that is the norm around here?


----------



## bukiwhitey

Does anyone know what thread size screws are needed for ceiling mount?

Thanks.


----------



## swyda038

aaranddeeman said:


> It's not the cost of the part, but the cost of the support that they would have to do (due to HDMI cable issues in longer lengths, and cables are most likely longer in PJ world), and the defame the product would have got for no particular issue in itself.
> And also as I understand except gaming the current commercial movie UHD only uses 4:2:0.
> So yeah, Epson did a wise thing, I must say.





achanonier said:


> HI there
> 
> I've been reading some comments about how std Blu Ray is the way to go...
> I' can't roger that...
> 
> Yesterday night I reviewed a lot of disk ABing Std Bluray on my PS4 and the UHD on my Panny.
> - Bright films as Deadpool and Kingsman
> - Darker films as The Revenat, BVS, Ghost in he Shell
> - Pacific Rim, Mad MAx, Star Treck
> 
> I did not find a single time that the Std Blu Ray was superior.
> 
> The UHD always was much more detailed, you can clearly see the improved resolution.
> Improved dark scene visbility, highlights... Some times the movies are a little darker, sometime brighter, sometime as bright but always the picture seemed deeper, richer and more realistic.
> 
> I ended up watching the UHD release of Blade Runner that I bought yesterday.
> That's my all time favourite, it's the seventh copy of the film I own (2 VHS, 2 DVDs, 2BR), I'm very picky about its visuals.
> And I must say I was blown way, the previous Blu Ray just look like a DVD now to my eyes...
> The increased details are incredible, incky blakcs, great highlights, poping neons, the scene at Tyrell when Deckard meets Rachel, the hunt for Zora...
> Again I ABed it with the std BR and its not even comparable. The UHD wins hand down. (And I don't even talk about the ATMOS soundtrack)
> 
> So just to say If you have HDR set up correctly results are very very good with this PJ!





If you don't mind me asking, which HDR settings are you using? I am going to give it another go with comparing a standard blu ray and an UHD version and wanted to see which settings you've found most successful for the HDR on this projector. There is a list put together by htguy that has about 9 options of HDR settings by members of this forum and I wasn't sure if there is one or two that have the best quality/success. Thanks!


----------



## achanonier

I went back to using my Panny UB700 Dynamic Range adjustment feature combined with auto HDR bright and Epson super white on in natural mode. Eco lamp.

To get close without the Panny setting I would add s custom gamma curve. 
0 16 20 24 28 32 32 32 0.
It's my best setup for bright popping HDR when not using the Panny setting. 
I have deep blacks and clipping occurs at 1000 nits.
It may not be purist perfect but I really enjoy the picture I get on all movies.
HDR with a PJ is a matter of choices.


----------



## OMXP

*HDfury Linker or Integral?*

I have a 1080p tv to be connected to my new 4k avr, and I have epson pj, I read that I need to have a 4k tv to get the 4k signal from avr to the projector! or the avr will downgrad all the 4k inputs to 1080p as it will go with the lowest resolution of displays connected to it. So I read about HDfury integral and linker.. and really don't know what is the difference between them and I want your help guys to know which one is best for my setup?

thanks


----------



## Dave Harper

pheek1g said:


> This is killing me. I'm stuck deciding between the 5040 and the uhd65. The main reason why I'm stuck is because of UHD65's true 4k capability. The 5040 has all the nice features like lens memory, motorized lens cover, gorgeous colors, better blacks, better input lag. Is the difference in 4k dramatically better on the UHD65 or can you still get that mouth water sharpness on the 5040 as well? I will be gaming, and occasional movies but I want that option to watch 4k content and appreciate the quality.





pheek1g said:


> Thanks for the reply. I've only heard good things about the 5040. I bought a BENQ 3050 as a beginner projector awhile ago and want to upgrade. I just want to appreciate the 4k quality and HDR isn't a priority for me, if it works.. great. If not, oh well. Even 1080p will be and upgrade from my BENQ. Considering this is a much bigger projector, is there a reliable and affordable mount that is the norm around here?



Neither of these projectors are true native 4K. They are both pixel shifters. The Epson uses eShift and the DLPs like the Optoma UHD65 use XPR. The only advantage of the Optoma is that its native chip resolution is slightly higher than that of the Epson's and that it is a single chip design with a color wheel resulting a sharper images on screen because you don't have three separate panels to align (Red, Green, Blue) like on 3 panel LCD, LCoS, DiLA, SXRD, etc. type units. 

This does result in better sharpness and detail on the Optoma, but the Epsons have much superior contrast ratios/black levels and if you're a gamer, much better lag time numbers. The Optoma UHD60 has better lag time than the 65, but even worse contrast and colors due to its RGBY (rather than RGBRGB) color wheel to get more brightness. 

Pick your poison!


----------



## pheek1g

Dave Harper said:


> Neither of these projectors are true native 4K. They are both pixel shifters. The Epson uses eShift and the DLPs like the Optoma UHD65 use XPR. The only advantage of the Optoma is that its native chip resolution is slightly higher than that of the Epson's and that it is a single chip design with a color wheel resulting a sharper images on screen because you don't have three separate panels to align (Red, Green, Blue) like on 3 panel LCD, LCoS, DiLA, SXRD, etc. type units.
> 
> This does result in better sharpness and detail on the Optoma, but the Epsons have much superior contrast ratios/black levels and if you're a gamer, much better lag time numbers. The Optoma UHD60 has better lag time than the 65, but even worse contrast and colors due to its RGBY (rather than RGBRGB) color wheel to get more brightness.
> 
> Pick your poison!


Damn.. Well you helped me make the decision. I just ordered the 5040ub. Thanks all, looking forward to hooking this bad boy up. The upgrade from my benq to this will be a noticeable difference just in 1080p content. I'm excited.


----------



## marco1975

pheek1g said:


> Damn.. Well you helped me make the decision. I just ordered the 5040ub. Thanks all, looking forward to hooking this bad boy up. The upgrade from my benq to this will be a noticeable difference just in 1080p content. I'm excited.


The only projector that i know of is True (Native 4k) on the market right now in the 5K price range is the
Sony VPL-VW285ES. 
i have seen both the optoma 60 and 65 in action before i bought the Epson 9300 , true the optoma has a little bit sharper image then the Epson 9300 , but that is only if u seating quit closer to the screen, once u move away a reasonable distance from the screen ,it loses its sharper image advantage, with that being said , the Epson has superior black level/Contrast/Color which to my eyes translate higher Picture Qaulity.


----------



## JustAnEE

Dave Harper said:


> Neither of these projectors are true native 4K. They are both pixel shifters. The Epson uses eShift and the DLPs like the Optoma UHD65 use XPR. The only advantage of the Optoma is that its native chip resolution is slightly higher than that of the Epson's and that it is a single chip design with a color wheel resulting a sharper images on screen because you don't have three separate panels to align (Red, Green, Blue) like on 3 panel LCD, LCoS, DiLA, SXRD, etc. type units.
> 
> This does result in better sharpness and detail on the Optoma, but the Epsons have much superior contrast ratios/black levels and if you're a gamer, much better lag time numbers. The Optoma UHD60 has better lag time than the 65, but even worse contrast and colors due to its RGBY (rather than RGBRGB) color wheel to get more brightness.
> 
> Pick your poison!


Yeah seems weird, why they would they CHOOSE to do that with the DLP chip? Seems like it would have made more sense if they made the chip with spaces in between rows or columns of mirrors -- Then a shift just either horizontal or vertical, resulting in a true 4k image. What's the deal with this stupid diagonal stuff? LCDs that would be completely infeasible. Edit: On further thought, I guess the mirrors you also can't put a gap between them either or it will still reflect light in the gaps.

*Just bought a 5040 myself. Waiting for CC pricematch to finally set it up and waiting for an audio receiver to come in. I screwed up not doing homework and I bought from Projector People. Insane return policy (


----------



## WynsWrld98

New Epson 5040UB owner trying to figure out what my options are (if any) to get 4K HDR streaming of Netflix, Amazon and YouTube. I have a Sony UBP-X800, I get 4K SDR/REC709 from all of these streaming sources (no HDR/no BT2020). When playing a UHD BD I do get 4K HDR/BT2020.

Will the new Apple 4K TV play nicely with the 5040UB/6040UB to provide 4K HDR streaming of any/all of these streaming sources?: Netflix, Amazon, YouTube. I would think if the source material is 24 Hz that frequency could be output but from my reading it seems many 4K streaming devices have fixed output of 4K 60 Hz HDR which the Epson can't do due to it not having 18 GB HDMI, not sure why they don't switch between 24 Hz and 60 Hz output based on what the source material is.

I don't play games and am just looking for a simple way to get 4K HDR streaming (if possible),


----------



## Slodojo

Edit: please ignore, question already answered.


----------



## theuserdylan

OMXP said:


> I have a 1080p tv to be connected to my new 4k avr, and I have epson pj, I read that I need to have a 4k tv to get the 4k signal from avr to the projector! or the avr will downgrad all the 4k inputs to 1080p as it will go with the lowest resolution of displays connected to it. So I read about HDfury integral and linker.. and really don't know what is the difference between them and I want your help guys to know which one is best for my setup?
> 
> thanks




I don’t think this is true. I have a Sony DN1080 hooked up to a 1080P tv and the Epson 5040 and the Epson is reporting a 4k signal. That said, I don’t try to send a signal to both devices at once. If I attempted to do that (and turned on the tv), I think that I would end up being limited to 1080P.

You should try it out with your receiver. You may not need the HDfury unless you want to watch both devices at once.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## shiv81

*How to search thread*

Sorry for the dumb question, but I'm new here and just trying to do some research on the thread. What is the best way to search it? I tried using the search bar that says custom search on the right side, but it keeps searching all of AVS instead of just the current thread. Thanks


----------



## theuserdylan

WynsWrld98 said:


> New Epson 5040UB owner trying to figure out what my options are (if any) to get 4K HDR streaming of Netflix, Amazon and YouTube. I have a Sony UBP-X800, I get 4K SDR/REC709 from all of these streaming sources (no HDR/no BT2020). When playing a UHD BD I do get 4K HDR/BT2020.
> 
> Will the new Apple 4K TV play nicely with the 5040UB/6040UB to provide 4K HDR streaming of any/all of these streaming sources?: Netflix, Amazon, YouTube. I would think if the source material is 24 Hz that frequency could be output but from my reading it seems many 4K streaming devices have fixed output of 4K 60 Hz HDR which the Epson can't do due to it not having 18 GB HDMI, not sure why they don't switch between 24 Hz and 60 Hz output based on what the source material is.
> 
> I don't play games and am just looking for a simple way to get 4K HDR streaming (if possible),




The Apple TV lets you set the device to 24 Hz to get HDR. You can also set to 4k 60HZ SDR, which is better if you are watching non-HDR content because Apple is scaling HDR to SDR and it doesn’t look great. Note the interface will not be smooth at 24hz. But iTunes movies in 4K HDR should look great.

Apple TV won’t yet get you Amazon—though it is promised sometime alter this year. Apple TV also won’t get you YouTube 4K because it doesn’t support the coding format Google uses and there has been no promise it will ever support it.

I’m not sure on Netflix. I know AppleTV will get you 4K, but not sure about HDR. 

The Shield will get you YouTube and Amazon right now. 

It probably comes down to whether you want YouTube or iTunes more.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## NoTechi

theuserdylan said:


> The Apple TV lets you set the device to 24 Hz to get HDR. You can also set to 4k 60HZ SDR, which is better if you are watching non-HDR content because Apple is scaling HDR to SDR and it doesn’t look great. Note the interface will not be smooth at 24hz. But iTunes movies in 4K HDR should look great.
> 
> Apple TV won’t yet get you Amazon—though it is promised sometime alter this year. Apple TV also won’t get you YouTube 4K because it doesn’t support the coding format Google uses and there has been no promise it will ever support it.
> 
> I’m not sure on Netflix. I know AppleTV will get you 4K, but not sure about HDR.
> 
> The Shield will get you YouTube and Amazon right now.
> 
> It probably comes down to whether you want YouTube or iTunes more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


The shield gives you 4k HDR with Netflix if set to 24Hz


----------



## NoTechi

Juiced46 said:


> Great info. The linker with the Xbox One S was one of the things I had questions about. Its good to see you are getting HDR with it even though it is 1080p. How do you like the HDR image when gaming in 1080P vs no HDR with 4K? I know with the PS4 Pro, for me 1080P HDR looks phenomenal compared to 4K with no HDR.
> 
> I am on the fence about the linker. I was going to buy one, but the Xbox One X will be out soon. I think I will wait to see how the new system does with this projector and hopefully there are more video setting options like the PS4 Pro to handle HDR, at this point, if I can get 1080P/HDR I will be satisfied since I know now (unfortunately) that we cannot do 4k/60 HDR gaming.


Yes I would wait for xbox one x as well before going for the linker if I would be you. 

As for 1080p HDR gaming on the xbox one s. To be honest I am not impressed by the HDR part but this could be also due to the fact I did not tried Oledurt/Harper settings with this setup yet. The colors e.g. with FF XV looked strange to me and are far away from a WOW effect. Will try again with Oledurt/Harper settings and let you know. On the other hand e.g. Tomb Raider and other games look great already without HDR. 

NoTechi


----------



## achanonier

NoTechi said:


> The shield gives you 4k HDR with Netflix if set to 24Hz


Are you sure about that ?


My experience so far with the Shield and Netflix is : 

4k60 BT709 -->4k show sin netflix but no HDR
1080p60 BT2020 --> HDR shows but in 1080p
4k24 BT2020 --> 4k hows are in 4k and HDR shows are just 1080p HDR

I did never manage to get 4k24 HDR with Netflix, no issues with Amazon though


----------



## Fromwithin142

I just picked up the new Apple 4K TV.. During set up it will test your equipment for HDR10 or Dolby Vision compatibility, when it does this it says my equipment cannot support HDR?
I'm using a Denon AVR-X3300W and it has no problem using my ROKU or my Panasonic UB900 playing content with HDR?

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Would it be because of the slower HDMI interface on this projector, it doesn't support the newer 18gbps spec but only the older 10gbps spec?

Thanks


----------



## Fromwithin142

*Apple 4k tv not compatible*

I just picked up the new Apple 4K TV.. During set up it will test your equipment for HDR10 or Dolby Vision compatibility, when it does this it says my equipment cannot support HDR?
I'm using a Denon AVR-X3300W and it has no problem using my ROKU or my Panasonic UB900 playing content with HDR?

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Would it be because of the slower HDMI interface on this projector, it doesn't support the newer 18gbps spec but only the older 10gbps spec?

Thanks


----------



## OMXP

theuserdylan said:


> I don’t think this is true. I have a Sony DN1080 hooked up to a 1080P tv and the Epson 5040 and the Epson is reporting a 4k signal. That said, I don’t try to send a signal to both devices at once. If I attempted to do that (and turned on the tv), I think that I would end up being limited to 1080P.
> 
> You should try it out with your receiver. You may not need the HDfury unless you want to watch both devices at once.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




On my onkyo avr .. I have to pass through to 1080 because my pc is connected to it and can't have a 4K resolution if it will pass to the tv . And then I switch to 4K output when I use the pj and change the option from onkyo to pass 4K signal. If I set it to pass 4K it only pass to main output and can't choose 4K for both outputs. I guess that is why I need hdfury .. to split the signal from onkyo main output to pj and tv. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NetViper

I’m not sure anyone can answer this yet, but with Xbox one x, if we run Forza 7 through the 5040, what are we going to get? Obviously not 4k hdr 60. Will we get 4k 60 no hdr? Do we need something like the hd fury to get it working best?


----------



## Juiced46

shiv81 said:


> Sorry for the dumb question, but I'm new here and just trying to do some research on the thread. What is the best way to search it? I tried using the search bar that says custom search on the right side, but it keeps searching all of AVS instead of just the current thread. Thanks


Right above the first post on any page on the right side you will see "Search this thread" That is what you want. 



NetViper said:


> I’m not sure anyone can answer this yet, but with Xbox one x, if we run Forza 7 through the 5040, what are we going to get? Obviously not 4k hdr 60. Will we get 4k 60 no hdr? Do we need something like the hd fury to get it working best?


It will not get 4K/60 HDR for sure. It will do for sure 4K/60 NO HDR like the Xbox One S. The question is, will it do 1080P/60 HDR like the PS4 Pro does? Nobody knows that. I can tell you first hand that on the Pro, 1080P/60 HDR looks better then 4K/60 no HDR. 



NoTechi said:


> Yes I would wait for xbox one x as well before going for the linker if I would be you.
> 
> As for 1080p HDR gaming on the xbox one s. To be honest I am not impressed by the HDR part but this could be also due to the fact I did not tried Oledurt/Harper settings with this setup yet. The colors e.g. with FF XV looked strange to me and are far away from a WOW effect. Will try again with Oledurt/Harper settings and let you know. On the other hand e.g. Tomb Raider and other games look great already without HDR.
> 
> NoTechi


Interesting, on the PS4 Pro, to me it looks very good. I think it looks best with Harpers HDR but switch to SDR signal settings. I tried to download FFXV demo on PS4 Pro but for some reason it was not available. I tested HDR with Fifa 18, Mass Effect and Resident Evil, all looked very good.


----------



## siuengr

achanonier said:


> Are you sure about that ?
> 
> 
> My experience so far with the Shield and Netflix is :
> 
> 4k60 BT709 -->4k show sin netflix but no HDR
> 1080p60 BT2020 --> HDR shows but in 1080p
> 4k24 BT2020 --> 4k hows are in 4k and HDR shows are just 1080p HDR
> 
> I did never manage to get 4k24 HDR with Netflix, no issues with Amazon though


That has been my experience as well. Although Netflix seems choppy when I have it set to 4k24. I also have to do a restart after changing the resolution to get the 4k or HDR flags to work correctly.


----------



## NoTechi

siuengr said:


> That has been my experience as well. Although Netflix seems choppy when I have it set to 4k24. I also have to do a restart after changing the resolution to get the 4k or HDR flags to work correctly.


I just watched the new Star Trek via Shield/Netflix in 4k HDR and it looked great. Also I don't have to restart the fury to get it working. Do you have all updates installed on your Shield? I remember in the beginning I had to restart from time to time as well but that got fixed by an update of the Netflix app.


----------



## NoTechi

Juiced46 said:


> Interesting, on the PS4 Pro, to me it looks very good. I think it looks best with Harpers HDR but switch to SDR signal settings. I tried to download FFXV demo on PS4 Pro but for some reason it was not available. I tested HDR with Fifa 18, Mass Effect and Resident Evil, all looked very good.


The linker "fakes/tricks" a tv/projector to be able to handle everything. See attached screenshot ... it's in German but you will see all green checks on xbox TV Info page (beside the last green check where my shoulder is )

Not sure what I changed but I got a new stange result with the wireless/linker/xbox. I can get 4k HDR in 60Hz with linker via wireless (see attached screenshot) .... BUT just 8bit. I don't think 8bit HDR is real HDR. Have to figure out again now how I managed to get 1080p HDR 60Hz 12bit .... 

NoTechi


----------



## marco1975

panman40 said:


> Yes, that happened to me and I gave the call to Epson who then sent me a New lamp.





budeliao said:


> Was searching thru the thread today as I have had this happen a few times. Last night it went thru a minute or two of this and then the lamp error light lit up and projector powered off. I unplug and replug and turned it on with no issue. Any similar experiences? Seems a very odd behavior.
> 
> Thanks.


i have also had slimilar experience with the projector a few times before , where it would go for 1-2 minute on Max high fan/no image on start up before it display anything, but then i found out the reason for that happening is , if i switch ON the source -Blu-ray/AVR. elc. before the projector , then it will cause the projector to go for 1-2 minute on Max high fan/no image.
as long as i turn ON the projector first thing , it would not happen...


----------



## Juiced46

NoTechi said:


> The linker "fakes/tricks" a tv/projector to be able to handle everything. See attached screenshot ... it's in German but you will see all green checks on xbox TV Info page (beside the last green check where my shoulder is )
> 
> Not sure what I changed but I got a new stange result with the wireless/linker/xbox. I can get 4k HDR in 60Hz with linker via wireless (see attached screenshot) .... BUT just 8bit. I don't think 8bit HDR is real HDR. Have to figure out again now how I managed to get 1080p HDR 60Hz 12bit ....
> 
> NoTechi


That is very interesting. According to the chart below it can indeed do 4K\60 HDR @ 4:2:0. I am assuming you did something with the linker to make it work. I just do not know what actual source/app would actually output 4K/60 4:2:0


----------



## siuengr

NoTechi said:


> I just watched the new Star Trek via Shield/Netflix in 4k HDR and it looked great. Also I don't have to restart the fury to get it working. Do you have all updates installed on your Shield? I remember in the beginning I had to restart from time to time as well but that got fixed by an update of the Netflix app.


I think the trick is having the linker in the loop then. I have the latest software installed, but haven't been able to get it to work. I tried running it though my oppo-203, hoping it would force it to 4kHDR, but that didn't work either.


----------



## NoTechi

siuengr said:


> I think the trick is having the linker in the loop then. I have the latest software installed, but haven't been able to get it to work. I tried running it though my oppo-203, hoping it would force it to 4kHDR, but that didn't work either.


Using the Shield I don't have the linker in between. It's Shield --> A/V Receiver --> projector via cable HDMI without linker.

Another problem could be your internet connection. It might be the Netflix app is more sensitive then the Amazon app and is not offering HDR if it "thinks" the connection could be unstable.

NoTechi


----------



## siuengr

NoTechi said:


> Using the Shield I don't have the linker in between. It's Shield --> A/V Receiver --> projector via cable HDMI without linker.
> 
> Another problem could be your internet connection. It might be the Netflix app is more sensitive then the Amazon app and is not offering HDR if it "thinks" the connection could be unstable.
> 
> NoTechi


I have it hardwired to a 100Mb download. That shouldn't be a problem. It play 4k with no problem, but HDR will only play at 1080p.


----------



## Dylan

I feel stupid but I cannot find the screenshots that are supposed to be in the 5040 review at projectorreviews.com that show their updated calibration settings. Here is where they talk about it:

http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-projector-calibration-settings/

Other people writing in the comments there have found them so I can't understand how I'm missing it. Does anyone have a direct URL?

I've tried the various settings floating around this forum and some of them are an improvement on the out of the box settings, but none of them live up to what I expected with HDR. The problem might be my expectations but I'd like to try the calibrated settings from projectorreviews.


----------



## NoTechi

Juiced46 said:


> That is very interesting. According to the chart below it can indeed do 4K\60 HDR @ 4:2:0. I am assuming you did something with the linker to make it work. I just do not know what actual source/app would actually output 4K/60 4:2:0


I might be even mistaken since I can't figure out 1080p with 10/12bit anymore. Might be I never had it running and was mixing it up with 1080p hdr 60hz but with just 8 bit.

Got another interesting one with 4:4:4 but still 8bit see attached.

NoTechi


----------



## NoTechi

siuengr said:


> I have it hardwired to a 100Mb download. That shouldn't be a problem. It play 4k with no problem, but HDR will only play at 1080p.


I am running out of ideas. Could be there is a difference with the European and US Shield Netflix app but that would be strange. If you want you could post your Shield video settings and I compare them with mine if I can find any difference.

NoTechi


----------



## siuengr

NoTechi said:


> I am running out of ideas. Could be there is a difference with the European and US Shield Netflix app but that would be strange. If you want you could post your Shield video settings and I compare them with mine if I can find any difference.
> 
> NoTechi


I'll try and get some pics later tonight.


----------



## jwhn

NoTechi said:


> I just watched the new Star Trek via Shield/Netflix in 4k HDR and it looked great. Also I don't have to restart the fury to get it working. Do you have all updates installed on your Shield? I remember in the beginning I had to restart from time to time as well but that got fixed by an update of the Netflix app.


HI there,

I don't believe the picture you share here validates that you are getting 4K from Netflix because the 5040UB may be upscaling. Take a picture of the Netflix program information. Does it show you are getting HDR AND 4K. I don't believe its possible to get both on the Shield after hours of trying.

If you have a keyboard you can also hit some commands (I think its ctl-F8 but I may be remembering incorrectly) and it will show the true signal that Netflix is sending. You need to look at what the source is sending - not the Epson menu...


----------



## WynsWrld98

jwhn said:


> HI there,
> 
> I don't believe the picture you share here validates that you are getting 4K from Netflix because the 5040UB may be upscaling. Take a picture of the Netflix program information. Does it show you are getting HDR AND 4K. I don't believe its possible to get both on the Shield after hours of trying.
> 
> If you have a keyboard you can also hit some commands (I think its ctl-F8 but I may be remembering incorrectly) and it will show the true signal that Netflix is sending. You need to look at what the source is sending - not the Epson menu...


The conclusion I'm coming to is getting 4K HDR streaming from Netflix, Amazon and YouTube to the 5040UB/6040UB isn't possible based on what is available today. Even someone who posted forcing 24Hz said the video is jerky so no point in that.


----------



## Dave Harper

The info menu on the 5040/6040 shows what is being received, so that will tell you. 

24Hz should only look "jerky" if the source is native 60Hz and there's a mismatch. This happens when I watch PS Vue on the Shield and forgot to switch it back to 60Hz. If the source is native 24p, then the display, video processor, AVR, etc will properly do its inverse telecine to 60p and look smooth (if its done the way it should).


----------



## amarkow

OMXP said:


> I have a 1080p tv to be connected to my new 4k avr, and I have epson pj, I read that I need to have a 4k tv to get the 4k signal from avr to the projector! or the avr will downgrad all the 4k inputs to 1080p as it will go with the lowest resolution of displays connected to it. So I read about HDfury integral and linker.. and really don't know what is the difference between them and I want your help guys to know which one is best for my setup?
> 
> thanks


I'm a new 5040 owner and want to understand whether I need the Linker or the HDFury Integral One to get the best image out of my system. I have a Roku Premiere+ 4K and Oppo 203 in the system, plus DirecTV. Where would the Linker go in the system? I don't want to invest another $200 but I do want to maximize the investment I've already made. Any suggestions?


----------



## jwhn

WynsWrld98 said:


> The conclusion I'm coming to is getting 4K HDR streaming from Netflix, Amazon and YouTube to the 5040UB/6040UB isn't possible based on what is available today. Even someone who posted forcing 24Hz said the video is jerky so no point in that.




For the record I essentially watch everything in 24hz because most content is shot in 24. I don't have any issues with jerky video. HDR / 4K works great with Amazon and UHD players. It's only Netflix that's an issue and in that case HDR in 1080p is just fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

jwhn said:


> For the record I essentially watch everything in 24hz because most content is shot in 24. I don't have any issues with jerky video. HDR / 4K works great with Amazon and UHD players. It's only Netflix that's an issue and in that case HDR in 1080p is just fine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was specifically talking about* 4K* _*HDR*_ *streaming* from Netflix, Amazon and YouTube to the 5040UB/6040UB, not 1080p, not UHD BDs.


----------



## jwhn

WynsWrld98 said:


> I was specifically talking about* 4K* _*HDR*_ *streaming* from Netflix, Amazon and YouTube to the 5040UB/6040UB, not 1080p, not UHD BDs.




Understood. I'm just commenting on the 24hz point. There should be no inherent issues with judder playing 24hz in any scenario. Period. Unless you are playing content shot in 60hz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> The info menu on the 5040/6040 shows what is being received, so that will



Okay. Then the poster is the only person I have found who can get 4K and HDR on Netflix with the shield. So I guess there's hope.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> The info menu on the 5040/6040 shows what is being received, so that will



Actually, Dave, this is not correct. I just tested it. When I play 1080p content in Netflix (verified) the epson menu shows 3840 x 2160.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## theuserdylan

jwhn said:


> HI there,
> 
> 
> 
> I don't believe the picture you share here validates that you are getting 4K from Netflix because the 5040UB may be upscaling. Take a picture of the Netflix program information. Does it show you are getting HDR AND 4K. I don't believe its possible to get both on the Shield after hours of trying.
> 
> 
> 
> If you have a keyboard you can also hit some commands (I think its ctl-F8 but I may be remembering incorrectly) and it will show the true signal that Netflix is sending. You need to look at what the source is sending - not the Epson menu...




In fact, Star Trek is reported to be 1080P on Netflix. So the Epson is only showing 4K because the Shield is upscaling. The good news is you’re not getting a worst picture because of Epson. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> Actually, Dave, this is not correct. I just tested it. When I play 1080p content in Netflix (verified) the epson menu shows 3840 x 2160.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Then there's something in the chain upconverting it from 1080p to 2160p.

P.S. - That's weird, I edited this post on Tapatalk and it made a duplicate post.


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> The there's something in the chain upconverting it from 1080p to 2160p.




Exactly. Point is that Netflix can't be streamed in 4K and HDR on the shield. A picture showing the Epson menu won't verify this. Need to look at the source. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> Exactly. Point is that Netflix can't be streamed in 4K and HDR on the shield. *A picture showing the Epson menu won't verify this.* Need to look at the source.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Info menu on the Epson displays what the unit is receiving, period. Your initial post (below and highlighted) would be incorrect because even if the 5040 was "upscaling" what it was getting, as you say below, it would still show what it is actually receiving (480p, 720p, 1080i, 1080p, 2160p, etc.). I agree you have to check the source to make sure it's set and sending the proper signal, but if his INFO Menu image shows 3840x2160p, yada yada yada, then that is what its getting. The thing to know here though is, I don't think the source, the Shield in this instance, can create its own HDR signal from one that isn't or doesn't have the HDR metadata, so if it shows in his INFO screen, then it's 99% certain that it is in the source signal (unless he has an HDFury device inline injecting the metadata?). Now could the source (Shield, Roku, FireTV, et al) be upconverting first? Sure! But don't say his INFO Screen could be wrong because the 5040 is "upscaling", because that wouldn't be true. The original signal, a video processor (AVR, Lumagen, DVDO, etc.) and/or the source device is the only thing that would be providing that 2160p signal, upconverted or native. That's what I was saying. 



jwhn said:


> HI there,
> 
> I don't believe the picture you share here validates that you are getting 4K from Netflix *because the 5040UB may be upscaling*. Take a picture of the Netflix program information. Does it show you are getting HDR AND 4K. I don't believe its possible to get both on the Shield after hours of trying..........


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> The Info menu on the Epson displays what the unit is receiving, period. Your initial post (below and highlighted) would be incorrect because even if the 5040 was "upscaling" what it was getting, as you say below, it would still show what it is actually receiving (480p, 720p, 1080i, 1080p, 2160p, etc.). I agree you have to check the source to make sure it's set and sending the proper signal, but if his INFO Menu image shows 3840x2160p, yada yada yada, then that is what its getting. The thing to know here though is, I don't think the source, the Shield in this instance, can create its own HDR signal from one that isn't or doesn't have the HDR metadata, so if it shows in his INFO screen, then it's 99% certain that it is in the source signal (unless he has an HDFury device inline injecting the metadata?). Now could the source (Shield, Roku, FireTV, et al) be upconverting first? Sure! But don't say his INFO Screen could be wrong because the 5040 is "upscaling", because that wouldn't be true. The original signal, a video processor (AVR, Lumagen, DVDO, etc.) and/or the source device is the only thing that would be providing that 2160p signal, upconverted or native. That's what I was saying.




You seem to have lost the point of the discussion. You are arguing a technical point that isn't important here. The original poster thinks that Netflix is providing a 4K AND HDR signal. I can assure you it isn't. And the epson menu is useless in determining this. I really don't care about the debate - just trying to help the poster because I've literally spent hours on this issue. Many others here have posted the exact same thing I am pointing out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> The Info menu on the Epson displays what the unit is receiving, period. Your initial post (below and highlighted) would be incorrect because even if the 5040 was "upscaling" what it was getting, as you say below, it would still show what it is actually receiving (480p, 720p, 1080i, 1080p, 2160p, etc.). I agree you have to check the source to make sure it's set and sending the proper signal, but if his INFO Menu image shows 3840x2160p, yada yada yada, then that is what its getting. The thing to know here though is, I don't think the source, the Shield in this instance, can create its own HDR signal from one that isn't or doesn't have the HDR metadata, so if it shows in his INFO screen, then it's 99% certain that it is in the source signal (unless he has an HDFury device inline injecting the metadata?). Now could the source (Shield, Roku, FireTV, et al) be upconverting first? Sure! But don't say his INFO Screen could be wrong because the 5040 is "upscaling", because that wouldn't be true. The original signal, a video processor (AVR, Lumagen, DVDO, etc.) and/or the source device is the only thing that would be providing that 2160p signal, upconverted or native. That's what I was saying.




And to clarify a bit more for those working through this. Netflix only provides 4K at 60hz. To watch HDR on Netflix on the shield you have to set the shield at 24hz. So you can't have both 4K and HDR at the same time on Netflix with the shield. There may be upscaling happening somewhere, but Netflix is only sending 1080p when the shield is at 24hz.

Amazon doesn't have this issue. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## siuengr

I hope this clears it up

Here are the Shield settings:

















Netflix Sparks shows HDR, but not 4K









5040 still shows 4K. It's not showing HDR because my switch isn't passing the flag correctly unless I switch inputs after it engages HDR an I forgot to switch the input.









Here is the info from Netflix, shows it is actually a 1080 stream









Here is Amazon actually playing correctly in UHD HD.


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> You seem to have lost the point of the discussion. You are arguing a technical point that isn't important here. The original poster thinks that Netflix is providing a 4K AND HDR signal. I can assure you it isn't. And the epson menu is useless in determining this. I really don't care about the debate - just trying to help the poster because I've literally spent hours on this issue. Many others here have posted the exact same thing I am pointing out.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, I think you're losing sight at the fact that you're wrong in that the Epson menu ONLY shows what it is getting, period, going against what you posted and I quoted. He showed a picture of the Epson INFO Menu that clearly showed _"HDMI 1, Component, 3840x2160p, 23.957 Hz (24Hz), HDR, BT2020"_. He CLAIMS that it was from his Shield while in the Netflix app, so he's either lying and it's a signal from something else, it's Photoshopped, or he actually is getting that signal and us dolts aren't able to get it too for some reason. So which is it?

The Epson menu is far from useless, because as you can see, it can show you what signal is ACTUALLY being received by the Epson, so you can at least start narrowing it down from there, eliminating the projector as the source of the 4K "upscaling". But like I said, the Epson and the source, unless there's a Lumagen or HDFury in the chain, can't magically inject the HDR metadata in there and his image shows "HDR". Explain how that could be then please?

I'm not saying you're wrong, just that what you stated about the Epson's INFO Menu is. Could it be possible that Netflix is actually sending the 1080p stream in HDR, but the Shield is set to 4K24p so it's upscaling that to 4K24p HDR BT2020 so that is what is showing on his 5040, making it seem as if it's Netflix at that native resolution? Is this the image in question?:










PS - Oh, I see siuengr's post where that appears to be the case.


----------



## Lithium

I've been quietly lurking on this post for the past week or so as I have been catching up and learning more about the 5040ub. I thought I'd share my two cents and maybe it can help some people out in the process!

*Setup*
150" Diagonal 16:9 Seymour AV XD Screen
Throw Distance: ~17ft
Dedicated Home Theater 100% light controlled
Onkyo TX-RZ810
Samsung UBD-K8500

*Samsung UBD-K8500*
First off, I can confirm that the K8500 has received firmware updates since the initial post. When properly configured it will send a 4K24 12bit 4:2:2 HDR signal. Those settings are:

Movie Frame (24Fs): Auto
DVD 24Fs Conversion: Auto
HDMI Deep Color: Auto (this is the one that activates the 12bit the Epson requires)

Also note that if you want the Epson to upscale non-4K you need to manually set Resolution to 1080p instead of Auto. This is overly annoying to change back and forth for 4k and I can't tell a difference so I just let the player upscale.

As far as streaming apps go I can confirm the following:
Amazon: 4K24 + HDR works
YouTube: 4K60 works, but no HDR
Netflix: 4K24 + HDR works

*HDR*
I tried several different HDR configurations suggested here and I personally had the "a-ha!" moment when I used the *Harper Digital Cinema w/ Oledurt Suggestions*. This is also known as the HDR on SDR and I must admit it is very effective and IMO worth the trade-off of not using an HDR mode.

Thanks HT Guy I found your PDF tabulation to be very helpful: http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf

The runner ups were Oledurt Digital Cinema and Oledurt Bright Cinema. But I found both to be too dark for my liking/setup and had to increase the brightness a few clicks.

*SDR*

Looks great on Natural. I used the Harper configuration and left the Gamma and RGBCMY settings at their defaults. I believe those settings were lost but regardless I am very happy with the result.

Thanks again to all the people I called out - your posts and insights have been very helpful!


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> No, I think you're losing sight at the fact that you're wrong in that the Epson menu ONLY shows what it is getting, period, going against what you posted and I quoted. He showed a picture of the Epson INFO Menu that clearly showed _"HDMI 1, Component, 3840x2160p, 23.957 Hz (24Hz), HDR, BT2020"_. He CLAIMS that it was from his Shield while in the Netflix app, so he's either lying and it's a signal from something else, it's Photoshopped, or he actually is getting that signal and us dolts aren't able to get it too for some reason. So which is it?
> 
> The Epson menu is far from useless, because as you can see, it can show you what signal is ACTUALLY being received by the Epson, so you can at least start narrowing it down from there, eliminating the projector as the source of the 4K "upscaling". But like I said, the Epson and the source, unless there's a Lumagen or HDFury in the chain, can't magically inject the HDR metadata in there and his image shows "HDR". Explain how that could be then please?
> 
> I'm not saying you're wrong, just that what you stated about the Epson's INFO Menu is. Could it be possible that Netflix is actually sending the 1080p stream in HDR, but the Shield is set to 4K24p so it's upscaling that to 4K24p HDR BT2020 so that is what is showing on his 5040, making it seem as if it's Netflix at that native resolution? Is this the image in question?:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS - Oh, I see siuengr's post where that appears to be the case.


He didn't post any information on the input signal, so his picture doesn't prove anything, except that he doesn't understand the Netflix issue with the Shield that is well documented all across the internet. 

You keep debating the HDR point which just proves again you are not following the discussion. Yes, he is getting HDR from Netflix on the shield. But the Netflix input is not 4K. 

Here are the full set of pictures that show what is happening. The first two show the shield set at 24hz. The input data that can be called up clearly shows 1080p while the Epson menu shows 2160. So the input menu from Netflix and the output menu from Epson are showing different resolutions. 

The second set shows what happens when the Shield is set to 60hz. Now the input shows 2160p. But HDR is not possible now because I am in 60hz.

Bottom line is that you can't get HDR AND 4K AT THE SAME TIME with Netflix on the Shield. At the same time is the main point. 

This is also very clearly shown when you look at the next two photos that show the programming menu from Netflix (also not shown by the original poster). Trust me that I know after testing EVERY streaming device on the market. If Netflix is sending 4K and HDR at the same time THEY BOTH WILL SHOW UP ON THIS MENU. The last picture is an example I found online of what it will look like if you are getting BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. You won't see this with the Shield with the 5040. 

Ultimately, it's not really a big deal, because the upscaled HDR image still looks great. But technically it's not 4K from Netflix.


----------



## pipsadiescout

*Ceiling height limits screen size?*

I'm about to purchase a 5040 and a 125" 2.35 screen. Dedicated theater room size is 20' x 14' x 6'10". There will be only one viewer (I'm 5'7") and one chair/sofa and it can be placed virtually anywhere. I'm willing to mount/place the projector anywhere that would allow the largest screen size possible given room (especially ceiling height). According to projectorcentral calculator, for a 125" 2.35 screen, the throw is 17'6", which isn't a problem, but the calculator doesn't ask for room size and I'm concerned that the low ceiling height is going to cause problems. Or does the 5040's lens shifting mitigate the problem?

So is the screen size too big? Any hope of going bigger? I'm hoping the 2.35 aspect ratio actually helps given its relative shorter height compared to 1.78. I assume the projector should be flush mounted in order to maximize the height, but I'm still concerned that it won't be high enough to prevent my head getting in the way of the light stream.

Thanks for any assistance.


----------



## achanonier

NoTechi said:


> I just watched the new Star Trek via Shield/Netflix in 4k HDR and it looked great. Also I don't have to restart the fury to get it working. Do you have all updates installed on your Shield? I remember in the beginning I had to restart from time to time as well but that got fixed by an update of the Netflix app.




I don't know why you guys talk so much about it.

If set to 4k24 Netflix will output 1080p HDR and the Shield does the upscale to 4k. Nothing new and nothing more to say.


----------



## NoTechi

jwhn said:


> He didn't post any information on the input signal, so his picture doesn't prove anything, except that he doesn't understand the Netflix issue with the Shield that is well documented all across the internet.
> 
> You keep debating the HDR point which just proves again you are not following the discussion. Yes, he is getting HDR from Netflix on the shield. But the Netflix input is not 4K.
> 
> Here are the full set of pictures that show what is happening. The first two show the shield set at 24hz. The input data that can be called up clearly shows 1080p while the Epson menu shows 2160. So the input menu from Netflix and the output menu from Epson are showing different resolutions.
> 
> The second set shows what happens when the Shield is set to 60hz. Now the input shows 2160p. But HDR is not possible now because I am in 60hz.
> 
> Bottom line is that you can't get HDR AND 4K AT THE SAME TIME with Netflix on the Shield. At the same time is the main point.
> 
> This is also very clearly shown when you look at the next two photos that show the programming menu from Netflix (also not shown by the original poster). Trust me that I know after testing EVERY streaming device on the market. If Netflix is sending 4K and HDR at the same time THEY BOTH WILL SHOW UP ON THIS MENU. The last picture is an example I found online of what it will look like if you are getting BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. You won't see this with the Shield with the 5040.
> 
> Ultimately, it's not really a big deal, because the upscaled HDR image still looks great. But technically it's not 4K from Netflix.


Guys relax 

The picture I posted is as I said Shield -> Receiver -> Projector. If I need to proof it I could make a video later playing in the shield menu or something. But I am not spreading "fake news" here by posting photoshop pictures or something 

Since I don't have a keyboard attached I don't know how to enter this shield programming menu. Is there another way by just using the remote?

To eliminate errors in my chain I tried following:
- Set shield to 1080p to ensure my receiver is not upscaling and it isn't. I get 1080p shown in the projector info screen when ther shield is set to 1080p.
- If the projector would be upscaling I should be able to disable the 4k upscaling in the projector menu which I can't since it is great out. This let me assume the input is 4k. And since the receiver is not upscaling it must come directly from the shield. 

If the shield is upscaling I don't know. I could put in the linker behind the shield to read what it is receiving from the shield from the linker menu but that doesn't makes sense since I still would not have a clue if it is 4k from Netflix or 4k upscaled by the Shield. All I know is the receiver gets 4k HDR at 23Hz.

I am up for suggestions what to test or what pictures to post 

NoTechi


----------



## NoTechi

achanonier said:


> I don't know why you guys talk so much about it.
> 
> If set to 4k24 Netflix will output 1080p HDR and the Shield does the upscale to 4k. Nothing new and nothing more to say.


That would explain it 

NoTechi


----------



## achanonier

NoTechi said:


> That would explain it
> 
> NoTechi


Yep !


----------



## marco1975

amarkow said:


> I'm a new 5040 owner and want to understand whether I need the Linker or the HDFury Integral One to get the best image out of my system. I have a Roku Premiere+ 4K and Oppo 203 in the system, plus DirecTV. Where would the Linker go in the system? I don't want to invest another $200 but I do want to maximize the investment I've already made. Any suggestions?


To my knowledge the HDFury Integral, has nothing to do with improving the image qaulity, It,s job such as , is to allows people who do not have HDCP 2.2/HDMI 2.0a compliant devices to connect and view from future UHD sources. if all your devices are HDCP 2.2/HDMI 2.0a compliant , i can,t see why u need one.


----------



## OMXP

marco1975 said:


> To my knowledge the HDFury Integral, has nothing to do with improving the image qaulity, It,s job such as , is to allows people who do not have HDCP 2.2/HDMI 2.0a compliant devices to connect and view from future UHD sources. if all your devices are HDCP 2.2/HDMI 2.0a compliant , i can,t see why u need one.


My onkyo avr can't send 4k signal to epson pj if my 1080 tv connected also to the avr! I have to remove the hdmi cable and then xbox one s or my pc will send 4k signal via avr to the pj.. OR I have to set the option from onkyo settings to output to main output only which is the pj !! I guess this issue will be solved by hdfury, right?

thanks


----------



## Juiced46

WynsWrld98 said:


> The conclusion I'm coming to is getting 4K HDR streaming from Netflix, Amazon and YouTube to the 5040UB/6040UB isn't possible based on what is available today. Even someone who posted forcing 24Hz said the video is jerky so no point in that.





WynsWrld98 said:


> I was specifically talking about* 4K* _*HDR*_ *streaming* from Netflix, Amazon and YouTube to the 5040UB/6040UB, not 1080p, not UHD BDs.


This is untrue. I stream Amazon prime in 4K/24 HDR with no issues, no jerky video etc. Works flawless. I could not get Netflix to work through my Xbox One S, however, it may be an issue with the Xbox One S if Netflix is outputting 4K/60, the Xbox cannot convert it.. But streaming does indeed work atleast with Amazon. I will check 4K Youtube and report back later. 



jwhn said:


> Exactly. Point is that Netflix can't be streamed in 4K and HDR on the shield. A picture showing the Epson menu won't verify this. Need to look at the source.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I know Dave touched on this. But I want to make a quick point about the projector info menu. The projector info INDEED shows the signal it is receiving. That info is correct. If you have any bit of doubt that the projector is "upscaling." All you have to do is go to the menu where it says "4K enhancement" If its greyed out, you are getting a 4K signal to the projector. If its selectable, the projector is upscaling the source to 4K. Very simple.


----------



## Mar-Vell

Dylan said:


> I feel stupid but I cannot find the screenshots that are supposed to be in the 5040 review at projectorreviews.com that show their updated calibration settings. Here is where they talk about it:
> 
> http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-projector-calibration-settings/
> 
> Other people writing in the comments there have found them so I can't understand how I'm missing it. Does anyone have a direct URL?
> 
> I've tried the various settings floating around this forum and some of them are an improvement on the out of the box settings, but none of them live up to what I expected with HDR. The problem might be my expectations but I'd like to try the calibrated settings from projectorreviews.



I was looking for these as well. I had started setting up my projector using these as a guide, but didn’t have the time to finish. Then when I went back to the page a couple days ago they were gone. I emailed Projector Reviews about it, but haven’t gotten a response yet. 

Did anyone save them? Or does anyone know where they can be found?


----------



## jwhn

Juiced46 said:


> This is untrue. I stream Amazon prime in 4K/24 HDR with no issues, no jerky video etc. Works flawless. I could not get Netflix to work through my Xbox One S, however, it may be an issue with the Xbox One S if Netflix is outputting 4K/60, the Xbox cannot convert it.. But streaming does indeed work atleast with Amazon. I will check 4K Youtube and report back later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know Dave touched on this. But I want to make a quick point about the projector info menu. The projector info INDEED shows the signal it is receiving. That info is correct. If you have any bit of doubt that the projector is "upscaling." All you have to do is go to the menu where it says "4K enhancement" If its greyed out, you are getting a 4K signal to the projector. If its selectable, the projector is upscaling the source to 4K. Very simple.




Unless the signal is being upscaled in the chain before the protector gets it. Then it's not a true 4K signal and not that simple. The photos I uploaded show that the source signal is 1080p and the protector is receiving 4K. So looking at the Epson menu alone can be misleading if you are trying to determine whether the streaming source is actually sending a 4K signal. The original poster said...look I am getting a 4K HDR signal from Netflix. And I have replied (and provided detailed evidence) that this is not the case, regardless of what the Epson menu shows.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SolRebel

Anyone getting banding on the new Apple TV 4k when running HDR? I have the Apple TV sending 4k 30htz so I get HDR, 12bit, etc. But watching the 4K Spiderman Homecoming last night (digital copy from iTunes) I was seeing a lot of banding in sunset scenes. 

The confusing part is when I switched to 4k, 60htz, SDR (8 bit) it went away.

Anyone with a similar issue and/or any help to offer. 

Much appreciated.


----------



## siuengr

Juiced46 said:


> This is untrue. I stream Amazon prime in 4K/24 HDR with no issues, no jerky video etc. Works flawless. I could not get Netflix to work through my Xbox One S, however, it may be an issue with the Xbox One S if Netflix is outputting 4K/60, the Xbox cannot convert it.. But streaming does indeed work atleast with Amazon. I will check 4K Youtube and report back later.


You are correct. The only issue is with Netflix because they make everything 60Hz. Amazon works, Youtube is hit or miss with HDR on the Roku.



Juiced46 said:


> I know Dave touched on this. But I want to make a quick point about the projector info menu. The projector info INDEED shows the signal it is receiving. That info is correct. If you have any bit of doubt that the projector is "upscaling." All you have to do is go to the menu where it says "4K enhancement" If its greyed out, you are getting a 4K signal to the projector. If its selectable, the projector is upscaling the source to 4K. Very simple.


The Shield is upscaling, as does the Roku. I wish they would just send the native signal and let the 5040 do the upscaling. Everyone is knocking the new Apple TV for upscaling everything to HDR, which is a little worse, but I haven't heard a lot of complaints that every other player that does the upscaling for you too.


----------



## Juiced46

jwhn said:


> Unless the signal is being upscaled in the chain before the protector gets it. Then it's not a true 4K signal and not that simple. The photos I uploaded show that the source signal is 1080p and the protector is receiving 4K. So looking at the Epson menu alone can be misleading if you are trying to determine whether the streaming source is actually sending a 4K signal. The original poster said...look I am getting a 4K HDR signal from Netflix. And I have replied (and provided detailed evidence) that this is not the case, regardless of what the Epson menu shows.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Correct, in that case the Shield is doing the upscaling. My point being is, the projector is showing the correct info to what it is actually receiving. If it is being upscaled, the source is what is upscaling it. My example was if the projector was upscaling the image. I do not have a Shield, so I am unsure of its issues. However, the projector menu does indeed show what signal it gets (yes it can be misleading from the source).


----------



## jwhn

siuengr said:


> You are correct. The only issue is with Netflix because they make everything 60Hz. Amazon works, Youtube is hit or miss with HDR on the Roku.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Shield is upscaling, as does the Roku. I wish they would just send the native signal and let the 5040 do the upscaling. Everyone is knocking the new Apple TV for upscaling everything to HDR, which is a little worse, but I haven't heard a lot of complaints that every other player that does the upscaling for you too.




Thank you. So nice to hear from someone with direct experience who understands this. I'm not trying to win a debate - just trying to help others who are also trying to unravel this. I would be very happy if someone could verify they can get Netflix to work (4K and HDR) with the shield. I've asked many times on a few forums and have yet to find anyone reporting that it works. I have no complaints about the Shield upscaling. This Netflix issue is the one small issue with the Shield but at the moment i believe it's still the best streaming device for the 5040.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

NoTechi said:


> Guys relax
> 
> 
> 
> The picture I posted is as I said Shield -> Receiver -> Projector. If I need to proof it I could make a video later playing in the shield menu or something. But I am not spreading "fake news" here by posting photoshop pictures or something
> 
> 
> 
> Since I don't have a keyboard attached I don't know how to enter this shield programming menu. Is there another way by just using the remote?
> 
> 
> 
> To eliminate errors in my chain I tried following:
> 
> - Set shield to 1080p to ensure my receiver is not upscaling and it isn't. I get 1080p shown in the projector info screen when ther shield is set to 1080p.
> 
> - If the projector would be upscaling I should be able to disable the 4k upscaling in the projector menu which I can't since it is great out. This let me assume the input is 4k. And since the receiver is not upscaling it must come directly from the shield.
> 
> 
> 
> If the shield is upscaling I don't know. I could put in the linker behind the shield to read what it is receiving from the shield from the linker menu but that doesn't makes sense since I still would not have a clue if it is 4k from Netflix or 4k upscaled by the Shield. All I know is the receiver gets 4k HDR at 23Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> I am up for suggestions what to test or what pictures to post
> 
> 
> 
> NoTechi




In case you want to know what Netflix is sending, just look at the programming menu. Marco Polo is in HDR. It will say HDR or UltraHD. If you are getting both they will both show up in the menu (but you won't see this scenario)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

jwhn said:


> In case you want to know what Netflix is sending, just look at the programming menu. Marco Polo is in HDR. It will say HDR or UltraHD. If you are getting both they will both show up in the menu (but you won't see this scenario)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



This is exactly what I am seeing through PS4 Pro. If I set the video settings to 4K on the PS4. In the Netflix show menus I see UltraHD 4K, NO HDR. If I set the video settings to 1080P. I see HDR but no UltraHD 4K obviously. I ended up using the 1080P/HDR and upscaled to 4K since it does look better then 4K with no HDR. 

With Xbox One S, you cannot get HDR at all with Netflix. But you can with Amazon.


----------



## amarkow

marco1975 said:


> To my knowledge the HDFury Integral, has nothing to do with improving the image qaulity, It,s job such as , is to allows people who do not have HDCP 2.2/HDMI 2.0a compliant devices to connect and view from future UHD sources. if all your devices are HDCP 2.2/HDMI 2.0a compliant , i can,t see why u need one.


Thanks, Marco. I am HDCP 2.2 compliant but have noticed that some of the images on UHD films seem less bright than non UHD blu-rays(although they do appear to be very accurate in terms of color). It may just be something I need to get used to. Also, I have not started experimenting with some of the PJ settings recommended by Oledurt or HarperVision. Sounds like a Linker is about as useful as a time base corrector, which was critical with analog PJs but became a doorstop once digital took over. Glad not to have to spend extra money on hardware.


----------



## marco1975

OMXP said:


> My onkyo avr can't send 4k signal to epson pj if my 1080 tv connected also to the avr! I have to remove the hdmi cable and then xbox one s or my pc will send 4k signal via avr to the pj.. OR I have to set the option from onkyo settings to output to main output only which is the pj !! I guess this issue will be solved by hdfury, right?
> 
> thanks


Maybe. But I'm afraid I don't know the exact answer to that , as i don,t personally use it in my system.


----------



## Shane M

*HDMI Switch feeding 5040UB?*

I needed to add this to manage all my sources and feed signal to my 5040UB:

http://a.co/igqfVYs

My current sources are ATV4 (not 4K, but planning to upgrade if I can)
Xbox One (not S, but may upgrade)

Can anyone chime in on what, if any, detriment would result? I don't currently have any 4K sources, but if I were to use a full 4K HDR source, would this pass it? 

I'm also trying to figure out if I need a Linker to limit the HDR to 4:4:2 or whatever to the UB.


----------



## marco1975

amarkow said:


> Thanks, Marco. I am HDCP 2.2 compliant but have noticed that some of the images on UHD films seem less bright than non UHD blu-rays(although they do appear to be very accurate in terms of color). It may just be something I need to get used to. Also, I have not started experimenting with some of the PJ settings recommended by Oledurt or HarperVision. Sounds like a Linker is about as useful as a time base corrector, which was critical with analog PJs but became a doorstop once digital took over. Glad not to have to spend extra money on hardware.


that is mostly the general first impression about UHD/HDR. that they seems much less brighter then SDR. u could try some of the setting that has been posted in this thread. personally i don,t use anyone setting, i use (Digital Cinema) for UHD/HDR. with Gamma +1 and the the rest on default , that gave me good result. 
for SDR. u want to use (Natural) as its the most accurate mode and the closest to Rec709.


----------



## amarkow

marco1975 said:


> that is mostly the general first impression about UHD/HDR. that they seems much less brighter then SDR. u could try some of the setting that has been posted in this thread. personally i don,t use anyone setting, i use (Digital Cinema) for UHD/HDR. with Gamma +1 and the the rest on default , that gave me good result.
> for SDR. u want to use (Natural) as its the most accurate mode and the closest to Rec709.


The HDR effect is similar to turning the 5030 that I replaced from Living Room to THX mode. THX provided very accurate colors, but it was much less bright. When I made the switch, everybody watching would complain. I'd just tell them to wait a few minutes to get used to the different setting and before long no one noticed. So it's a question of psychology more than technology. By the way, thanks for the settings advice. The PJ is so new that I haven't figured everything out yet.


----------



## amarkow

marco1975 said:


> that is mostly the general first impression about UHD/HDR. that they seems much less brighter then SDR. u could try some of the setting that has been posted in this thread. personally i don,t use anyone setting, i use (Digital Cinema) for UHD/HDR. with Gamma +1 and the the rest on default , that gave me good result.
> for SDR. u want to use (Natural) as its the most accurate mode and the closest to Rec709.


The HDR effect is similar to turning the 5030 that I replaced from Living Room to THX mode. THX provided very accurate colors, but it was much less bright. When I made the switch, everybody watching would complain. I'd just tell them to wait a few minutes to get used to the different setting and before long no one noticed. So it's a question of psychology more than technology. By the way, thanks for the settings advice. The PJ is so new that I haven't figured everything out yet.


----------



## roland6465

OK, sorry to ask a question that's probably been answered, but my ATV 4K is being delivered, and I just want to make sure I'm going to set it up correctly with my 6040UB. So I use the ATV 4K/24 SDR setting for 1080p and non HDR 4K, and manually switch the ATV to 4K/HDR for HDR? Is it that simple, or have I missed something? The thread moves pretty fast.


----------



## marco1975

amarkow said:


> The HDR effect is similar to turning the 5030 that I replaced from Living Room to THX mode. THX provided very accurate colors, but it was much less bright. When I made the switch, everybody watching would complain. I'd just tell them to wait a few minutes to get used to the different setting and before long no one noticed. So it's a question of psychology more than technology. By the way, thanks for the settings advice. The PJ is so new that I haven't figured everything out yet.


Oh forgot to mention, nevertheless which picture mode u choose for UHD/HDR. (though i would suggest Cinema/Bright cinema because the DCI-P3 filters in enable on these modes) just make sure that u choose HDR-1 or Auto Bright. in the setting.
Goodluck


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> He didn't post any information on the input signal, so his picture doesn't prove anything, except that he doesn't understand the Netflix issue with the Shield that is well documented all across the internet.
> 
> You keep debating the HDR point which just proves again you are not following the discussion. Yes, he is getting HDR from Netflix on the shield. But the Netflix input is not 4K.
> 
> Here are the full set of pictures that show what is happening. The first two show the shield set at 24hz. The input data that can be called up clearly shows 1080p while the Epson menu shows 2160. So the input menu from Netflix and the output menu from Epson are showing different resolutions.
> 
> The second set shows what happens when the Shield is set to 60hz. Now the input shows 2160p. But HDR is not possible now because I am in 60hz.
> 
> Bottom line is that you can't get HDR AND 4K AT THE SAME TIME with Netflix on the Shield. At the same time is the main point.
> 
> This is also very clearly shown when you look at the next two photos that show the programming menu from Netflix (also not shown by the original poster). Trust me that I know after testing EVERY streaming device on the market. If Netflix is sending 4K and HDR at the same time THEY BOTH WILL SHOW UP ON THIS MENU. The last picture is an example I found online of what it will look like if you are getting BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. You won't see this with the Shield with the 5040.
> 
> Ultimately, it's not really a big deal, because the upscaled HDR image still looks great. But technically it's not 4K from Netflix.


I am following the discussion very well, thank you very much. 

The thing I am correcting you on, is when you said this (did you NOT?), nothing more:



jwhn said:


> HI there,
> 
> I don't believe the picture you share here validates that you are getting 4K from Netflix *because the 5040UB may be upscaling*..........


The correction is and was, the Epson 5040 INFO Menu ONLY shows what it is receiving, so if it showed 4K24p HDR BT2020, then that is what it was receiving, period. Based on HIS images of HIS 5040's INFO Menu, which shows _"HDMI 1, Component, 3840x2160, Progressive, HDR, BT2020, etc."_, then that shows and proves without shadow of a doubt that HIS 5040 is indeed receiving THAT particular signal input to it, period, end of discussion. Now, the next question you must ask then is, is this NATIVE 4K24p HDR, or is it being upscaled BY SOMETHING ELSE IN THE CHAIN, just as I said and asked (see below quote) to which you responded to incorrectly and tried to say I didn't understand, but alas, I did. You just didn't understand the correction I was making. I'm sorry if I wasn't clear.

Your assessment that the Shield can't do Netflix at 4K24p HDR BT2020 is correct, and I alluded to that later. All I said was:



Dave Harper said:


> The info menu on the 5040/6040 shows what is being received, so that will tell you............
> 
> ............Then there's something in the chain upconverting it from 1080p to 2160p..........


To which you replied I was wrong and didn't understand, which is 100% incorrect in what I was saying and correcting in your posts. In this case, which we all seem to agree on, it is the Shield (set to 4K24p HDMI out mode) that is doing the "upscaling", NOT the 5040 as you stated (quoted above), and I corrected. Period, done, over. Enjoy your thread.



Juiced46 said:


> .........I know Dave touched on this. But I want to make a quick point about the projector info menu. The projector info INDEED shows the signal it is receiving. That info is correct. If you have any bit of doubt that the projector is "upscaling." All you have to do is go to the menu where it says "4K enhancement" If its greyed out, you are getting a 4K signal to the projector. If its selectable, the projector is upscaling the source to 4K. Very simple.


Correct.




jwhn said:


> Unless the signal is being upscaled in the chain before the protector gets it. Then it's not a true 4K signal and not that simple. The photos I uploaded show that the source signal is 1080p and the protector is receiving 4K. So looking at the Epson menu alone can be misleading if you are trying to determine whether the streaming source is actually sending a 4K signal. The original poster said...look I am getting a 4K HDR signal from Netflix. And I have replied (and provided detailed evidence) that this is not the case, regardless of what the Epson menu shows.


Correct.




Juiced46 said:


> Correct, in that case the Shield is doing the upscaling. My point being is, the projector is showing the correct info to what it is actually receiving. If it is being upscaled, the source is what is upscaling it. My example was if the projector was upscaling the image. I do not have a Shield, so I am unsure of its issues. However, the projector menu does indeed show what signal it gets (yes it can be misleading from the source).


Yes, correct again!

Enjoy everyone, this hobby is supposed to be fun!


----------



## bukiwhitey

roland6465 said:


> OK, sorry to ask a question that's probably been answered, but my ATV 4K is being delivered, and I just want to make sure I'm going to set it up correctly with my 6040UB. So I use the ATV 4K/24 SDR setting for 1080p and non HDR 4K, and manually switch the ATV to 4K/HDR for HDR? Is it that simple, or have I missed something? The thread moves pretty fast.


I have the ATV 4k set up with a 5040. Just set it to 4K HDR 24hz and everything will look great!


----------



## inspector

Wow...all this BS! I just use my 6040 to my Sammy k8500 through a Monoprice 40' Cabernet High Speed Cable and I get PERFECT 3D/4K! My AV is an Onkyo 608...Monoprice to the Sammy, regular HDMI cable to the Onkyo andn I get perfect audio...


----------



## ChrisRex

bukiwhitey said:


> I have the ATV 4k set up with a 5040. Just set it to 4K HDR 24hz and everything will look great!


What he said ;-) Set it forget it!


----------



## jwhn

siuengr said:


> You are correct. The only issue is with Netflix because they make everything 60Hz. Amazon works, Youtube is hit or miss with HDR on the Roku.
> 
> 
> 
> The Shield is upscaling, as does the Roku. I wish they would just send the native signal and let the 5040 do the upscaling. Everyone is knocking the new Apple TV for upscaling everything to HDR, which is a little worse, but I haven't heard a lot of complaints that every other player that does the upscaling for you too.


Ask and ye shall receive. I just updated the Shield (v6.0) and it has a whole new menu that allows for 63 (I think) different HDMI settings. So you can now set it to 1080p and have the Epson do the upscaling if you want. Not sure which is better - having the Shield upscale or the 5040. I'll have to experiment.


----------



## Hal_M

Trying to decide on a receiver that will pass through all video options to the 5040. I've been using Denon's for years and have been extremely happy. I have 7.1 now, but want to upgrade to 7.1.2 Dolby Atmos in my next receiver. Suggestions? I want to obviously pass through 4K and HDR and not have the receiver force signals to 60Hz as the 5040 doesn't do HDR at 60Hz from streaming devices. Been looking at the Denon AVRX4300H 9.2 Channel receiver. Is that what I would want to create 7.1.2? Or is there another model/configuration I should be looking for? 

Open to all other suggestions, recommendations.


----------



## siuengr

jwhn said:


> Ask and ye shall receive. I just updated the Shield (v6.0) and it has a whole new menu that allows for 63 (I think) different HDMI settings. So you can now set it to 1080p and have the Epson do the upscaling if you want. Not sure which is better - having the Shield upscale or the 5040. I'll have to experiment.


You could always set it to 1080p. I would like it to see that Netflix is only giving me a 1080 stream and output 1080, then when I switch to Amazon, it switches to 4k. I'll have to take a look at the new update. There are some interesting updates I want to check out.



Hal_M said:


> Trying to decide on a receiver that will pass through all video options to the 5040. I've been using Denon's for years and have been extremely happy. I have 7.1 now, but want to upgrade to 7.1.2 Dolby Atmos in my next receiver. Suggestions? I want to obviously pass through 4K and HDR and not have the receiver force signals to 60Hz as the 5040 doesn't do HDR at 60Hz from streaming devices. Been looking at the Denon AVRX4300H 9.2 Channel receiver. Is that what I would want to create 7.1.2? Or is there another model/configuration I should be looking for?
> 
> Open to all other suggestions, recommendations.


The 4300 will do 7.1.2, but is doesn't have the Dolby Vision update yet. Denon says it it coming, not that you need it for this projector. I have a Marantz 7010, Denon's cousins, and it passes everything.


----------



## Hal_M

siuengr said:


> You could always set it to 1080p. I would like it to see that Netflix is only giving me a 1080 stream and output 1080, then when I switch to Amazon, it switches to 4k. I'll have to take a look at the new update. There are some interesting updates I want to check out.
> 
> 
> 
> The 4300 will do 7.1.2, but is doesn't have the Dolby Vision update yet. Denon says it it coming, not that you need it for this projector. I have a Marantz 7010, Denon's cousins, and it passes everything.


Thanks. Right now the Denon is on sale for $799. Pretty great price. As you mentioned, I don't need Dolby Vision with the 5040, but would be important to know it will be available with upgrade. I always want to make sure that I check and double check compatibility as it seems I always buy something just to discover that there is some element I didn't know about that turns out to be crucial to my needs (my current receiver passes 4K, but not HDR, and my Roku Ultra won't stream 4K signals to 24Hz so I should have gotten the Nvidia Shield. Alas...).


----------



## marco1975

It seems that this projector benefits pretty good from the break-in period, now that i have used it around 120 hrs. iam beginning to see some improvment in the picture qaulity , color are a bit smoother now and the black are also a bit deeper. just my own experience


----------



## siuengr

Hal_M said:


> Thanks. Right now the Denon is on sale for $799. Pretty great price. As you mentioned, I don't need Dolby Vision with the 5040, but would be important to know it will be available with upgrade. I always want to make sure that I check and double check compatibility as it seems I always buy something just to discover that there is some element I didn't know about that turns out to be crucial to my needs (my current receiver passes 4K, but not HDR, and my Roku Ultra won't stream 4K signals to 24Hz so I should have gotten the Nvidia Shield. Alas...).


You sure the Roku Ultra won't stream 4K24? I have the Premire+ and it passes 4K24.


----------



## Hal_M

siuengr said:


> You sure the Roku Ultra won't stream 4K24? I have the Premire+ and it passes 4K24.


Actually, it passes 4K24, but many of the streaming apps only output at 60Hz and the Nvidia Shield will change that to 24Hz so that the 5040 can receive HDR. That's my understanding, anyway. Still trying to balance all this new (to me) stuff.


----------



## siuengr

Hal_M said:


> Actually, it passes 4K24, but many of the streaming apps only output at 60Hz and the Nvidia Shield will change that to 24Hz so that the 5040 can receive HDR. That's my understanding, anyway. Still trying to balance all this new (to me) stuff.


The shield won't do it either. If you read the last couple pages, with the Shield set to 4k24, Netflix will only stream 1080p HDR, but Amazon will stream 4k HDR. If you set the Sheild to 4K60, you get Netflix and Amazon at 4K60, but no HDR.


----------



## Hal_M

siuengr said:


> The shield won't do it either. If you read the last couple pages, with the Shield set to 4k24, Netflix will only stream 1080p HDR, but Amazon will stream 4k HDR. If you set the Sheild to 4K60, you get Netflix and Amazon at 4K60, but no HDR.


Damn...  It's all so confusing. I was on Amazon the other day and, via the Roku Ultra, first tried SPECTRE in 4K and it didn't come through with HDR. Then I tried CHI-RAQ and it DID come through with HDR.


----------



## theuserdylan

Shane M said:


> I needed to add this to manage all my sources and feed signal to my 5040UB:
> 
> 
> 
> http://a.co/igqfVYs
> 
> 
> 
> My current sources are ATV4 (not 4K, but planning to upgrade if I can)
> 
> Xbox One (not S, but may upgrade)
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone chime in on what, if any, detriment would result? I don't currently have any 4K sources, but if I were to use a full 4K HDR source, would this pass it?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also trying to figure out if I need a Linker to limit the HDR to 4:4:2 or whatever to the UB.




I don’t see how it could since its HDMI 1.4. You need HDMI 2.0.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

Hal_M said:


> Trying to decide on a receiver that will pass through all video options to the 5040. I've been using Denon's for years and have been extremely happy. I have 7.1 now, but want to upgrade to 7.1.2 Dolby Atmos in my next receiver. Suggestions? I want to obviously pass through 4K and HDR and not have the receiver force signals to 60Hz as the 5040 doesn't do HDR at 60Hz from streaming devices. Been looking at the Denon AVRX4300H 9.2 Channel receiver. Is that what I would want to create 7.1.2? Or is there another model/configuration I should be looking for?
> 
> Open to all other suggestions, recommendations.


Also a Denon fan, last week bought a 5040UB and a Denon X6300H (plus a Sony UBP-X800) and am very happy with this combo. I have the Denon setup to not upscale and it does exactly that, passes through what it gets from attached sources. I also love that the new Denon has an Info button on the remote that displays all kind of great info. On my previous AVR-4311 I had to go through a couple of menus to get to this type of info and it didn't show as much as the new one does just by clicking the Info button. I have four RSL C34E ceiling speakers on order to go from my 7.1 config to 7.1.4 for Atmos/DTS:X.

Re: the Sony UBP-X800 if you're interested in that at all with the 5040UB I have played around with a ton of menu options and best I can tell streaming Netflix/Amazon/YouTube/Vudu I always get 4K SDR REC 709 60 Hz to the 5040UB, I only get 4K HDR (24 Hz) from the Sony if I play a UHD BD. I also play 1080p MKVs and M2TS files on the Sony and I get them at the Denon as 1080p which is what I want (the Sony could be setup to upscale those to 4K but I prefer using Frame Interpolation with them at their native resolution in the 5040UB). I get the DTS-HD MA soundtrack bitstreamed to the Denon from MKV files and Dolby TrueHd bitstreamed to the Denon from M2TS files. So based on all of the hoops and extra add-ons to try and get better than this (e.g., get streaming HDR to the 5040UB) I'm good with this setup for now, love the simplicity. The Sony UBP-X800 also is very, very quick to respond to user commands and plays DVD-A/SACD discs, quite a bargain IMO.


----------



## JustAnEE

My citi price claim for $500 was approved today, so I finally got to turn on projector. ( So, $1800 after $200 gift card! I messed up could have gotten another $100+ from a portal if i bought it elsewhere.... Oh well)
I also bought an Onkyo tx-nr575 for $150 for receiver so I could process Netflix audio (after $200 newegg gc with purchase and at least $100 from Citi) and rigged to existing speakers, and a philips bdp7501/F7 (from Amazon, citi match clearance price at Nebraska furnituremart for $100). So, I'm in for $2060+ now.

Convergence is great for 3/4 screen, off about a 1/3 pixel on right side. They look "wider" on that side.

I got Netflix 4k to stream 8bit 4k60Hz 4:2:0, but not hdr . Am bummed out. Anything I'm missing? Played around with settings extensively, thought the philips would give the best chance. Projector has v104 firmware (didn't update). Set the 7501 to 24p (auto) and forced 1080p resolution. But I just get "HD" option in Netflix.

Maybe i need to watch for a shield tv to go on sale. Sounds like that can at least do 1080p hdr? Or do i just get used to 1/2 4k60 sdr. This is harder than it should be.


----------



## WynsWrld98

So I played around a bit more tonight with my new 5040UB with Sony UBP-X800 connected to it re: 4K and HDR streaming. By switching the Deep Color option on the Sony from OFF to AUTO I'm now getting HDR from Netflix streaming. For example, the Naked series says HDR on it when you look at the program description and is displaying as HDR on my 5040UB at 24 Hz:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2289678&thumb=1

I tried another Netflix show, Grace and Frankie, that indicates 4K Ultra HD (but not HDR) and it shows up nearly identical to the specs for Dirty, also at 24 Hz but SDR/REC709 as expected. As far as I can tell the Sony is sending all streaming from any source out at 4K despite me having it setup to output original resolution and have 4K upscaling turned off. But when I play a 1080p MKV/M2TS file it outputs as 1080p SDR per the Epson Info menu. 

When I try various content on the Sony YouTube app all of it is shown as 60 Hz on the 5040UB so obviously no HDR. I even played content that says it's 24 Hz in the title and content that says it's HDR and it all comes out at 60 Hz so evidently the YouTube app on the Sony is outputting everything at 60 Hz.

I'm scratching my head trying to find HDR programming in the Amazon app, I see no indication of HDR on any of the programming I'd expect to have it such as their own series The Man in the High Castle. I can find HDR programming pretty easily in the Netflix app but not Amazon (and obviously not in YouTube). Any 4K programming I find on Amazon plays at 4K 24 Hz SDR/REC709 on the 5040UB Info screen.

Here are my Sony UBP-X800 settings:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2289680&thumb=1
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2289682&thumb=1
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2289684&thumb=1


----------



## shamwow

jwhn said:


> Ask and ye shall receive. I just updated the Shield (v6.0) and it has a whole new menu that allows for 63 (I think) different HDMI settings. So you can now set it to 1080p and have the Epson do the upscaling if you want. Not sure which is better - having the Shield upscale or the 5040. I'll have to experiment.


This Shield update is pretty sweet -

63 HDMI Modes - I used 3840x2160 30Hz YUV 422 12-Bit Rec. 2020

Not sure if that's best of the 63 but with it I am getting:
4K HDR Netflix
4K HDR Amazon Prime
4K HDR Plex
4K HDR Kodi

Photo evidence attached -

Can't get HDR out of YouTube, would love to see that next since this is an Android box. I heard 4K HDR YouTube is locked to Chromecast Ultra but that device doesn't allow the generous HDMI settings. Anyway this update is really awesome for 5040 owners. Seems like AppleTV 4K may be similar. Good to see devices offering options.


----------



## achanonier

shamwow said:


> This Shield update is pretty sweet -
> 
> 63 HDMI Modes - I used 3840x2160 30Hz YUV 422 12-Bit Rec. 2020
> 
> Not sure if that's best of the 63 but with it I am getting:
> 4K HDR Netflix
> 4K HDR Amazon Prime
> 4K HDR Plex
> 4K HDR Kodi
> 
> Photo evidence attached -
> 
> Can't get HDR out of YouTube, would love to see that next since this is an Android box. I heard 4K HDR YouTube is locked to Chromecast Ultra but that device doesn't allow the generous HDMI settings. Anyway this update is really awesome for 5040 owners. Seems like AppleTV 4K may be similar. Good to see devices offering options.


Arghh again.

No you're not getting 4k HDR Netflix, you just get 1080p HDR with the Shield upscaling it to 4k.
Same as before... You need to see the HDR AND 4K logo on the Netflix show...


----------



## bukiwhitey

SolRebel said:


> Anyone getting banding on the new Apple TV 4k when running HDR? I have the Apple TV sending 4k 30htz so I get HDR, 12bit, etc. But watching the 4K Spiderman Homecoming last night (digital copy from iTunes) I was seeing a lot of banding in sunset scenes.
> 
> The confusing part is when I switched to 4k, 60htz, SDR (8 bit) it went away.
> 
> Anyone with a similar issue and/or any help to offer.
> 
> Much appreciated.


Set it to 4K 24 Hz HDR it will play perfectly!


----------



## Lithium

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm scratching my head trying to find HDR programming in the Amazon app, I see no indication of HDR on any of the programming I'd expect to have it such as their own series The Man in the High Castle. I can find HDR programming pretty easily in the Netflix app but not Amazon (and obviously not in YouTube). Any 4K programming I find on Amazon plays at 4K 24 Hz SDR/REC709 on the 5040UB Info screen.


On the Samsung player the Amazon 4K stuff is grouped into a block of "4K Movies Just for You" or something like that. And there will be a "UHD" tag up in the corner of the title art next to the "Prime" label. Most Amazon TV shows have this tag as well. When you click into a title, it will have more detailed tags up at the top stating if it is 4K and/or HDR. If you don't see this on the Sony they might not have updated the app yet.


----------



## Shane M

theuserdylan said:


> I don’t see how it could since its HDMI 1.4. You need HDMI 2.0.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks - I appreciate your reply. I have been into HT my entire life but now I'm a working father, very busy and I'm now so far behind the curve compared to where I used to be when I was posting 15 years ago! Not sure how I missed that. I am going to pick up a new switcher that will better support 4K HDR, and I need to extract optical audio as well. So I'm buying this:

HDMI optical audio extractor: http://a.co/9XeJCbj

And then I need a 5x1 switch with HDR that will at least meet the 5040UB. My two options:

1) http://a.co/eeYIyE5
2) http://a.co/7SQK7DV

My questions:

1) Suggestion on which one would be better? I think they both support HDR up to what the 5040UB can do, but I'm not 100% sure. The first one seems like a better bet because the specs are more specific.

2) With my primary source being ATV4 (soon to be 4K) for movies/TV and XBone (soon to be XboneS) for games - as I understand it, the only reason I would want to add a HDFury Linker is if I want HDR out of the XboneS - right? (Because it outputs 4:4:4 which the 5040 can't accept). Is this correct?

3) I also have a Roku Premier 4K which I'm not using. If I were to add it in, would that make a difference to answer to (2)?

You guys are awesome for helping people out here who are approaching this from that awkward middle ground between casual "set it and forget it" user and the advanced power user. So - thank you.


----------



## b curry

Shane M said:


> Thanks - I appreciate your reply. I have been into HT my entire life but now I'm a working father, very busy and I'm now so far behind the curve compared to where I used to be when I was posting 15 years ago! Not sure how I missed that. I am going to pick up a new switcher that will better support 4K HDR, and I need to extract optical audio as well. So I'm buying this:
> 
> *HDMI optical audio extractor:* http://a.co/9XeJCbj
> 
> And then I need a 5x1 switch with HDR that will at least meet the 5040UB. My two options:
> 
> 1) http://a.co/eeYIyE5
> 2) http://a.co/7SQK7DV
> 
> My questions:
> 
> 1) Suggestion on which one would be better? I think they both support HDR up to what the 5040UB can do, but I'm not 100% sure. The first one seems like a better bet because the specs are more specific.
> 
> 2) With my primary source being ATV4 (soon to be 4K) for movies/TV and XBone (soon to be XboneS) for games - as I understand it, the only reason I would want to add a HDFury Linker is if I want HDR out of the XboneS - right? (Because it outputs 4:4:4 which the 5040 can't accept). Is this correct?
> 
> 3) I also have a Roku Premier 4K which I'm not using. If I were to add it in, would that make a difference to answer to (2)?
> 
> You guys are awesome for helping people out here who are approaching this from that awkward middle ground between casual "set it and forget it" user and the advanced power user. So - thank you.


You do realize that by using an optical audio connection you're going to be giving up the lossless audio codecs Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA?

Optical audio out does not have the bandwidth to support Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA so you will revert back to Dolby Digital or DTS. Which also means no support for Dolby Atmos or DTX:X as well if you intend to use them.


----------



## siuengr

shamwow said:


> This Shield update is pretty sweet -
> 
> 63 HDMI Modes - I used 3840x2160 30Hz YUV 422 12-Bit Rec. 2020
> 
> Not sure if that's best of the 63 but with it I am getting:
> 4K HDR Netflix
> 4K HDR Amazon Prime
> 4K HDR Plex
> 4K HDR Kodi
> 
> Photo evidence attached -
> 
> Can't get HDR out of YouTube, would love to see that next since this is an Android box. I heard 4K HDR YouTube is locked to Chromecast Ultra but that device doesn't allow the generous HDMI settings. Anyway this update is really awesome for 5040 owners. Seems like AppleTV 4K may be similar. Good to see devices offering options.


I wouldn't recommend using 30Hz, I would stick witht he 23.9Hz. I tried 30Hz and got stuttering with Amazon.




achanonier said:


> Arghh again.
> 
> No you're not getting 4k HDR Netflix, you just get 1080p HDR with the Shield upscaling it to 4k.
> Same as before... You need to see the HDR AND 4K logo on the Netflix show...


What he said.


----------



## Shane M

b curry said:


> You do realize that by using an optical audio connection you're going to be giving up the lossless audio codecs Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA?
> 
> Optical audio out does not have the bandwidth to support Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA so you will revert back to Dolby Digital or DTS. Which also means no support for Dolby Atmos or DTX:X as well if you intend to use them.


Short answer: Yes. 

Thank you though, that is a very valid point that is worth noting at this level of discussion.


----------



## burton14e7

Speaking of the Nvidia shield. When I have my shield connected and I'm using a different video source the shield will turn off my projector after awhile. Does this happen to anybody else and you found how to keep it from happening? I just unplug the HDMI from the shield until I want to use it because of this.


----------



## Juiced46

burton14e7 said:


> Speaking of the Nvidia shield. When I have my shield connected and I'm using a different video source the shield will turn off my projector after awhile. Does this happen to anybody else and you found how to keep it from happening? I just unplug the HDMI from the shield until I want to use it because of this.



There is a user that was having this exact issue. He actually sent his projector back because he thought it was a projector issue. His new one did the exact same thing. It ended up being his HDMI cable that was causing it.


----------



## burton14e7

Juiced46 said:


> There is a user that was having this exact issue. He actually sent his projector back because he thought it was a projector issue. His new one did the exact same thing. It ended up being his HDMI cable that was causing it.


Interesting, did they say if it was the hdmi cable to the projector or the one from the shield to the AVR? If it's the one to the projector then I'm just going to go with my lowtech solution of unplugging the shield.  I'm not trying to attic crawl to run a new hdmi cable to the projector. Yes, I'm that lazy.

Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Juiced46

burton14e7 said:


> Interesting, did they say if it was the hdmi cable to the projector or the one from the shield to the AVR? If it's the one to the projector then I'm just going to go with my lowtech solution of unplugging the shield.  I'm not trying to attic crawl to run a new hdmi cable to the projector. Yes, I'm that lazy.
> 
> Thanks for the tip!


He said it was the cable from the Shield to the AVR


----------



## Chad Andersen

*New Apple TV and HDR Settings*

Hello all... I'm a new owner of both the Epson 5040ub and also the Apple TV 4K HDR. Upon initially hooking up the projector, the ATV asks if you want to enable HDR, which it tries but always fails. The screen goes blank for a while, and then the ATV reverts itself back to it's original settings. In looking over this forum over that past months, it sounds like the Epson 5040ub is actually only supporting HDR on a few devices right now??? Have any of you had any luck with the new ATV? I've searched online extensively and tried about every in the 5040 menus pertaining to Dynamic Range. Any help you can give would be much appreciated!


----------



## roland6465

Chad Andersen said:


> Hello all... I'm a new owner of both the Epson 5040ub and also the Apple TV 4K HDR. Upon initially hooking up the projector, the ATV asks if you want to enable HDR, which it tries but always fails. The screen goes blank for a while, and then the ATV reverts itself back to it's original settings. In looking over this forum over that past months, it sounds like the Epson 5040ub is actually only supporting HDR on a few devices right now??? Have any of you had any luck with the new ATV? I've searched online extensively and tried about every in the 5040 menus pertaining to Dynamic Range. Any help you can give would be much appreciated!


I had the same problem with auto setup. Just manually set 4K HDR 24Hz in the ATV menu.


----------



## briscocounty

Chad Andersen said:


> Hello all... I'm a new owner of both the Epson 5040ub and also the Apple TV 4K HDR. Upon initially hooking up the projector, the ATV asks if you want to enable HDR, which it tries but always fails. The screen goes blank for a while, and then the ATV reverts itself back to it's original settings. In looking over this forum over that past months, it sounds like the Epson 5040ub is actually only supporting HDR on a few devices right now??? Have any of you had any luck with the new ATV? I've searched online extensively and tried about every in the 5040 menus pertaining to Dynamic Range. Any help you can give would be much appreciated!


You can set the Apple TV 4K to 24hz 4K HDR and the Epson can handle it. Just go to the AV settings on the apple TV and I think it's under "other outputs"

24hz will make the UI and some content jerky but it looks good on iTunes HDR movies


----------



## roland6465

Looks good with 4K Netflix too!


----------



## welldun

burton14e7 said:


> Speaking of the Nvidia shield. When I have my shield connected and I'm using a different video source the shield will turn off my projector after awhile. Does this happen to anybody else and you found how to keep it from happening? I just unplug the HDMI from the shield until I want to use it because of this.


you can set the direction of HDMI control in the projector settings. I have it set so that the PJ controls the devices. You might want to try adjusting this setting to see if it helps.

check out this link and scroll down to the HDMI LINK section:
https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd4/cpd43312/source/menus/reference/plhc2040_2045/menu_settings_settings_plhc2040_2045.html


----------



## jdbarnes63

burton14e7 said:


> Speaking of the Nvidia shield. When I have my shield connected and I'm using a different video source the shield will turn off my projector after awhile. Does this happen to anybody else and you found how to keep it from happening? I just unplug the HDMI from the shield until I want to use it because of this.


I had the issue Juice is talking about. I did send the projector back and had the same issue on the second one. I ended up changing the HDMI cable from the Shield to the AVR and digging in the settings I turned off the CEC feature. Since changing the cable and the settings I have not had the projector turn off by itself. The issue was frustrating because I use the other inputs on the AVR and probably after about 10 minutes the projector would just shut down. The problem did not manifest until I hooked the Shield up to the AVR.


----------



## jladner

burton14e7 said:


> Speaking of the Nvidia shield. When I have my shield connected and I'm using a different video source the shield will turn off my projector after awhile. Does this happen to anybody else and you found how to keep it from happening? I just unplug the HDMI from the shield until I want to use it because of this.


I had the same problem when I first connected the Nvidia Shield. Projector shut off after 20 minutes every time. I checked the Nvidia settings and found that it was set to shut off after 20 minutes on standby. I switched it to shut off after 3 hrs idle and now no problem. Or you can set it to never shut off.


----------



## jwhn

WynsWrld98 said:


> So I played around a bit more tonight with my new 5040UB with Sony UBP-X800 connected to it re: 4K and HDR streaming. By switching the Deep Color option on the Sony from OFF to AUTO I'm now getting HDR from Netflix streaming. For example, the Naked series says HDR on it when you look at the program description and is displaying as HDR on my 5040UB at 24 Hz:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2289678&thumb=1
> 
> 
> 
> I tried another Netflix show, Grace and Frankie, that indicates 4K Ultra HD (but not HDR) and it shows up nearly identical to the specs for Dirty, also at 24 Hz but SDR/REC709 as expected. As far as I can tell the Sony is sending all streaming from any source out at 4K despite me having it setup to output original resolution and have 4K upscaling turned off. But when I play a 1080p MKV/M2TS file it outputs as 1080p SDR per the Epson Info menu.
> 
> 
> 
> When I try various content on the Sony YouTube app all of it is shown as 60 Hz on the 5040UB so obviously no HDR. I even played content that says it's 24 Hz in the title and content that says it's HDR and it all comes out at 60 Hz so evidently the YouTube app on the Sony is outputting everything at 60 Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm scratching my head trying to find HDR programming in the Amazon app, I see no indication of HDR on any of the programming I'd expect to have it such as their own series The Man in the High Castle. I can find HDR programming pretty easily in the Netflix app but not Amazon (and obviously not in YouTube). Any 4K programming I find on Amazon plays at 4K 24 Hz SDR/REC709 on the 5040UB Info screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my Sony UBP-X800 settings:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2289680&thumb=1
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2289682&thumb=1
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2289684&thumb=1



This matches what I remember from when I had the Sony. I could stream Netflix HDR/4K but not Amazon. It has the opposite issue of the Shield. So to stream both Amazon and Netflix HDR/4K you need two devices. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

jwhn said:


> This matches what I remember from when I had the Sony. I could stream Netflix HDR/4K but not Amazon. It has the opposite issue of the Shield. So to stream both Amazon and Netflix HDR/4K you need two devices.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm hoping Sony updates the Amazon app to include HDR. It hardly seems worth it to me to spend money on a Shield just to get Amazon HDR when I am getting Amazon 4K SDR. I also like the simplicity of interfacing with the Sony for pretty much everything I need, they have everything easy access on the home screen, a nice simple GUI, no switching of inputs to do different things. And re: YouTube 4K HDR it seems like it just doesn't exist, at least with the Epson 5040/6040 due to YouTUbe outputting content at 60 Hz so SDR/REC709 only on the 5040/6040. Even if YouTube could do HDR with the 5040/6040 I find it pretty much impossible to find HDR content in YouTube. I find it easy to find 4K content and HDR content with the Netflix app just by searching for those strings, that tactic doesn't work with the Amazon app and and also a failure with YouTube so for me with my Sony UBP-X800 as of today I really like what Netflix has done re: making it obvious and easy to find 4K content and HDR content.


----------



## jwhn

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm hoping Sony updates the Amazon app to include HDR. It hardly seems worth it to me to spend money on a Shield just to get Amazon HDR when I am getting Amazon 4K SDR. I also like the simplicity of interfacing with the Sony for pretty much everything I need, they have everything easy access on the home screen, a nice simple GUI, no switching of inputs to do different things. And re: YouTube 4K HDR it seems like it just doesn't exist, at least with the Epson 5040/6040 due to YouTUbe outputting content at 60 Hz so SDR/REC709 only on the 5040/6040. Even if YouTube could do HDR with the 5040/6040 I find it pretty much impossible to find HDR content in YouTube. I find it easy to find 4K content and HDR content with the Netflix app just by searching for those strings, that tactic doesn't work with the Amazon app and and also a failure with YouTube so for me with my Sony UBP-X800 as of today I really like what Netflix has done re: making it obvious and easy to find 4K content and HDR content.




I agree with you. I almost went the same route as you but ended up going the Shield route instead as the one device I will use for almost everything. Hopefully there will be a single streaming device that will work with everything soon. Maybe the the new Apple TV? Or maybe the next Fire Tv? Can't understand why Amazon has all the HDR content but their FireTV can't play it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## theuserdylan

Shane M said:


> Thanks - I appreciate your reply. I have been into HT my entire life but now I'm a working father, very busy and I'm now so far behind the curve compared to where I used to be when I was posting 15 years ago! Not sure how I missed that. I am going to pick up a new switcher that will better support 4K HDR, and I need to extract optical audio as well. So I'm buying this:
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI optical audio extractor: http://a.co/9XeJCbj
> 
> 
> 
> And then I need a 5x1 switch with HDR that will at least meet the 5040UB. My two options:
> 
> 
> 
> 1) http://a.co/eeYIyE5
> 
> 2) http://a.co/7SQK7DV
> 
> 
> 
> My questions:
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Suggestion on which one would be better? I think they both support HDR up to what the 5040UB can do, but I'm not 100% sure. The first one seems like a better bet because the specs are more specific.
> 
> 
> 
> 2) With my primary source being ATV4 (soon to be 4K) for movies/TV and XBone (soon to be XboneS) for games - as I understand it, the only reason I would want to add a HDFury Linker is if I want HDR out of the XboneS - right? (Because it outputs 4:4:4 which the 5040 can't accept). Is this correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 3) I also have a Roku Premier 4K which I'm not using. If I were to add it in, would that make a difference to answer to (2)?
> 
> 
> 
> You guys are awesome for helping people out here who are approaching this from that awkward middle ground between casual "set it and forget it" user and the advanced power user. So - thank you.


I’d go with first because it isn’t clear second one even supports 4K.






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## OMXP

*Projector shuts down with xbox one s!*

Hi all .. I searched this thread and found a similar issue to what I have with (9300w pj "6040ub") .. When I used it with xbox one s, it shuts down suddenly and I have to turn it on again, other sources work fine.

Any fix for this issue?

thanks


----------



## theuserdylan

OMXP said:


> Hi all .. I searched this thread and found a similar issue to what I have with (9300w pj "6040ub") .. When I used it with xbox one s, it shuts down suddenly and I have to turn it on again, other sources work fine.
> 
> Any fix for this issue?
> 
> thanks




Try turning off HDMI CEC on all your devices first. Seems to be a common problem.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## timmyotule

pipsadiescout said:


> I'm about to purchase a 5040 and a 125" 2.35 screen. Dedicated theater room size is 20' x 14' x 6'10". There will be only one viewer (I'm 5'7") and one chair/sofa and it can be placed virtually anywhere. I'm willing to mount/place the projector anywhere that would allow the largest screen size possible given room (especially ceiling height). According to projectorcentral calculator, for a 125" 2.35 screen, the throw is 17'6", which isn't a problem, but the calculator doesn't ask for room size and I'm concerned that the low ceiling height is going to cause problems. Or does the 5040's lens shifting mitigate the problem?
> 
> So is the screen size too big? Any hope of going bigger? I'm hoping the 2.35 aspect ratio actually helps given its relative shorter height compared to 1.78. I assume the projector should be flush mounted in order to maximize the height, but I'm still concerned that it won't be high enough to prevent my head getting in the way of the light stream.
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.


The width of the room is 14'? If so, a 125" 2.39 screen sounds right. I have a room that's 13'x13'x6'5" and I have a 120" 2.39 screen. If you go any bigger there isn't a place to put the speakers. With a 125" screen there will be just enough room on the sides for the borders of the screen and front speakers and there will be room at the bottom of the screen for the center channel speaker.

For your screen size the projector just has to be mounted at least 13' from the screen. It can be mounted further back as well. 

You won't have a problem in a seated position with a ceiling mounted projector as long as your far enough back from the screen so that you can see the whole thing. My projector is right at the midpoint of my screen, right behind the seating location 12' from the screen and tall people will get in the way if they don't slouch (and I removed the 3" legs from my couch).

To figure out how high from the floor the light beam will be at your seating location:
Your screen is 48" tall + 3" border + say 3" to projector lens height (guestimating 6" from the ceiling) = light source to bottom of ceiling = 54"
Distance of projector from screen = X
Distance of seat from screen = Y

Light beam from ceiling at seating location = 6" + 54" * (X-Y) / Y 

So for the projector at 13' (156") and the seating at 12' (144") = 6" + 54" * ( 13 - 12 ) / 12 = 6" + 54" * (.083) = 10.5" from the ceiling (so just under 6' from the floor)

For the projector all the way back at the back (check the calculator to see that it has the throw for this, I'm pretty sure it does) with seating still at 12' 
= 6 + 54 (20 - 12) / 12 = 6 + 54(.666) = 42" from ceiling or 40" from the floor. That would probably put you in the light path. Put in your own numbers for where you are thinking of sitting and putting the projector. 

With the lens shift of this projector (vertical and horizontal) you can even put it off to the side of the room and horizontally shift the image onto the screen. I would just keep it in line with the center of the screen though, mounted close to the ceiling, and then use the vertical lens shift to line it up with your screen.


----------



## carlisle14

Hey All, 

I am a Epson 4040 owner. I am trying to play HDR 4k contend from Netflix through my chromcast (which i plugged in directly to the projector, to eliminate any HDMI issues), and yet in the info screen is says rec 709, and SDR 8 bit. I an playing Marco Polo which i know for a fact is HDR and should and 4k. 

Does anyone know what I have done wrong? I Have tried playing other 4k content from netflix (both through chromecast, and Bell Fibe 4k box), and i can never get the signal to say rec 2020 for HDR 10bit. 

Really bugging me and I have spent hours trying to debug....


----------



## carlisle14

carlisle14 said:


> Hey All,
> 
> I am a Epson 4040 owner. I am trying to play HDR 4k contend from Netflix through my chromcast (which i plugged in directly to the projector, to eliminate any HDMI issues), and yet in the info screen is says rec 709, and SDR 8 bit. I an playing Marco Polo which i know for a fact is HDR and should and 4k.
> 
> Does anyone know what I have done wrong? I Have tried playing other 4k content from netflix (both through chromecast, and Bell Fibe 4k box), and i can never get the signal to say rec 2020 for HDR 10bit.
> 
> Really bugging me and I have spent hours trying to debug....


Also, i have seen some pics of people posting the Marco Polo title with lables saying 4k and HDR. In my netflix title (from the chromecast) it only says 4k, and NOT HDR. Why is what? What would cause that?


----------



## Dave Harper

carlisle14 said:


> Hey All,
> 
> 
> 
> I am a Epson 4040 owner. I am trying to play HDR 4k contend from Netflix through my chromcast (which i plugged in directly to the projector, to eliminate any HDMI issues), and yet in the info screen is says rec 709, and SDR 8 bit. I an playing Marco Polo which i know for a fact is HDR and should and 4k.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what I have done wrong? I Have tried playing other 4k content from netflix (both through chromecast, and Bell Fibe 4k box), and i can never get the signal to say rec 2020 for HDR 10bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Really bugging me and I have spent hours trying to debug....






carlisle14 said:


> Also, i have seen some pics of people posting the Marco Polo title with lables saying 4k and HDR. In my netflix title (from the chromecast) it only says 4k, and NOT HDR. Why is what? What would cause that?



It's due to the Epsons only having 10.2Gbps HDMI inputs and 4K60p HDR 10bit BT2020 requires more than that. Netflix only outputs 60p on most devices and most likely your Chromecast (?). If you get an nVidia Shield you can set the output as 24p which will give you 4K24p 10/12bit BT2020 WITHOUT HDR for whatever reason. Just read the last few pages where it's discussed a ton.


----------



## carlisle14

Dave Harper said:


> It's due to the Epsons only having 10.2Gbps HDMI inputs and 4K60p HDR 10bit BT2020 requires more than that. Netflix only outputs 60p on most devices and most likely your Chromecast (?). If you get an nVidia Shield you can set the output as 24p which will give you 4K24p 10/12bit BT2020 WITHOUT HDR for whatever reason. Just read the last few pages where it's discussed a ton.


Hi Dave, 

Thanks so much for this information... I have been trying to parse the past few pages but was unable to connect the dots. 

So buy a shield and set to 24p. Instead of a Shield, could I buy an 4k apple TV? Looks like I can set the resolution for that? Can anyone here confirm? 

However, I have seen some peoples screen shots on this formum which show 4k resolution, rec 2020 and HDR, in the projector info screen. Also, it was HDR on the netflix title. How did they attain this, if dropping down to 24p through the Sheild doesn't support HDR as stated above?

Apologies for these questions..


----------



## carlisle14

carlisle14 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Thanks so much for this information... I have been trying to parse the past few pages but was unable to connect the dots.
> 
> So buy a shield and set to 24p. Instead of a Shield, could I buy an 4k apple TV? Looks like I can set the resolution for that? Can anyone here confirm?
> 
> However, I have seen some peoples screen shots on this formum which show 4k resolution, rec 2020 and HDR, in the projector info screen. Also, it was HDR on the netflix title. How did they attain this, if dropping down to 24p through the Sheild doesn't support HDR as stated above?
> 
> Apologies for these questions..


Sorry, been doing some digging on the new Apple TV4k. Looks like there is a setting on the box to output at 4k HDR 24hz (i am assuming Hz and p are the same). Has anyone with a Apple TV 4k been able to set the box to this setting and successfully get 4k rex 2020 12 bit HDR on their PJ?


----------



## NoTechi

carlisle14 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> Thanks so much for this information... I have been trying to parse the past few pages but was unable to connect the dots.
> 
> So buy a shield and set to 24p. Instead of a Shield, could I buy an 4k apple TV? Looks like I can set the resolution for that? Can anyone here confirm?
> 
> However, I have seen some peoples screen shots on this formum which show 4k resolution, rec 2020 and HDR, in the projector info screen. Also, it was HDR on the netflix title. How did they attain this, if dropping down to 24p through the Sheild doesn't support HDR as stated above?
> 
> Apologies for these questions..


You will have 4k and hdr with Netflix from the shield. The 4k is just not native 4k from the Netflix app it is 4k upscaled from the Shield

NoTechi


----------



## readthis13

I am hoping some of you really smart people can help point me in the right direction...

I’m running an xbone 1s > denon x6200 > hdfury linker > 5040ub.

When I first started playing hdr blurays, they were too dark. And after reading about this issue, people suggested that a Linker could strip the HDR, and keep the BT.2020. So I set that up, used the Harpervision SDR settings, and the images on Bright Cinema look amazing. Even the hdr Netflix content looks brilliant.

- My questions however, is do I even need the linker as I can manually select SDR in the Epson menu? Or is there another benefit to keeping the Linker you might see? I’m also open to replacing the xbone with a Shield or something else if needed.

- Also, does anyone have any recommended 1080 SDR (non BT.2020) calibrations I could try? 

- Finally, has anyone found a good way to get brighter HDR? On default Bright Cinema mode, it doesn’t look good (colors are washed out, and darks seem too dark).

The harpervision BT.2020 SDR setting were really helpful. 

Btw, I’d gladly pay for advice from an isf person if one would want to pm me. I have none local I can find or I’d have already hired one.


----------



## inspector

I had my first 6040 ISFed but the guy did a crappy job. Epson sent me a new one because of the ghosting/crosstalk, now all is good.


So, I've decided to get it ISFed again and the guy that is doing it will do it right. We went over all the parameters and this PJ will finally really shine.


I've been tinkering with the setting that I've not enjoyed it, especially since I have never been happy with any setting I've gotten from here.


I don't stream, only physical and I have 4 discs I want to play. UHDBD; BD; SD and 3DBD. I want to be able to play any of these and just use a few memories to enjoy them. Now I have 5 memories: UHD; BD/SD; B&W Digital(B&W BD/SD); 3D Cinema(B&W)3D Dynamic Cinema(Color.)


It's time to put out some cash and make this PJ shine!!!


----------



## SolRebel

bukiwhitey said:


> Set it to 4K 24 Hz HDR it will play perfectly!





SolRebel said:


> Anyone getting banding on the new Apple TV 4k when running HDR? I have the Apple TV sending 4k 30htz so I get HDR, 12bit, etc. But watching the 4K Spiderman Homecoming last night (digital copy from iTunes) I was seeing a lot of banding in sunset scenes.
> 
> The confusing part is when I switched to 4k, 60htz, SDR (8 bit) it went away.
> 
> Anyone with a similar issue and/or any help to offer.
> 
> Much appreciated.


Thanks! I wish that worked. Tried 4k HDr 24hz instead of 30hz. I did a bunch of tests with Revenant (since i have the 4k disc and the 4k iTunes copy) and some with Spiderman. Here are the results.

Revenant 4k blu ray - 4k HDR 24hz played on an Oppo. Looks great, no banding.
Revenant 4k iTunes - 4k HDR 24hz played on Apple TV 4k. Banding in most sky scenes. 
Revenant 4k iTunes - 4k SDR 60hz played on Apple TV 4k. Looks good, no banding.

Makes me think there is something going on with the way the Apple TV is processing the HDR. Bummer because it is making HDR unusable unless I watch a disc. 

On the plus side, I'm starting to lean towards SDR here. My ocd brain is annoyed that I'm not getting the "best", but in practice I can barely tell a difference. Yes the colors are a little nicer in HDR, but the SRD is brighter and I'm getting 60hz smoothness. Still would like the HDR if possible though.


Anyone seeing what am in regards to the banding in HDR? Or have any other thoughts on how I might solve this? Added some pics from my test. Shows my settings looking "correct" as far as being 12bit etc and the banding I'm getting.


----------



## OMXP

theuserdylan said:


> Try turning off HDMI CEC on all your devices first. Seems to be a common problem.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




What is HDMI CEC? And how can I disable it?
Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ht guy

OMXP said:


> What is HDMI CEC? And how can I disable it?
> Thanks.


...try this.


----------



## roland6465

ht guy said:


> ...try this.


Thanks for the link! My 6040 cut off twice yesterday during 1 football game, and I hope this is why. I've turned all the CEC off.

I've had the projector for a few months without issue, and suspiciously, added an AppleTV 4K on Friday. Only the projector and ATV were set to CEC "on." Hopefully this does the trick. We're going to watch GotGV2 on disc in a few, so I'll keep my fingers crossed.


----------



## OMXP

roland6465 said:


> Thanks for the link! My 6040 cut off twice yesterday during 1 football game, and I hope this is why. I've turned all the CEC off.
> 
> I've had the projector for a few months without issue, and suspiciously, added an AppleTV 4K on Friday. Only the projector and ATV were set to CEC "on." Hopefully this does the trick. We're going to watch GotGV2 on disc in a few, so I'll keep my fingers crossed.


I guess Apple tv 4k is the problem, it is all started when I added it to the setup!


----------



## roland6465

ht guy said:


> ...try this.





OMXP said:


> I guess Apple tv 4k is the problem, it is all started when I added it to the setup!


The movie played without a hitch last night. Hope that's the case for you as well. CEC is under "remotes and devices" in the ATV settings.


----------



## OMXP

roland6465 said:


> The movie played without a hitch last night. Hope that's the case for you as well. CEC is under "remotes and devices" in the ATV settings.


I was just checking the apple tv, will try it.

Thanks


----------



## OMXP

ht guy said:


> ...try this.


Thanks for the link.


----------



## Lesmor

Strange because for the first time in 30 odd years I am using CEC and I love it
I switch on the Epson and everything else follows suit
Same on shutdown
No obvious issues
So the Epson works just fine


----------



## smilingangel

b curry said:


> You do realize that by using an optical audio connection you're going to be giving up the lossless audio codecs Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD MA?
> 
> Optical audio out does not have the bandwidth to support Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD MA so you will revert back to Dolby Digital or DTS. Which also means no support for Dolby Atmos or DTX:X as well if you intend to use them.


New 6040 owner. Is there a wiki with recommended cables for this projector? We will be hooking it up within the next week or so. It will be hooked to a 4k player, and denon 4300. We may eventually hook it up to a Dish receiver. No streaming (internet is too slow). We do have the room wired for Atmos. Thank you.


----------



## Shane M

Shane M said:


> Thanks - I appreciate your reply. I have been into HT my entire life but now I'm a working father, very busy and I'm now so far behind the curve compared to where I used to be when I was posting 15 years ago! Not sure how I missed that. I am going to pick up a new switcher that will better support 4K HDR, and I need to extract optical audio as well. So I'm buying this:
> 
> HDMI optical audio extractor: http://a.co/9XeJCbj
> 
> And then I need a 5x1 switch with HDR that will at least meet the 5040UB. My two options:
> 
> 1) http://a.co/eeYIyE5
> 2) http://a.co/7SQK7DV
> 
> My questions:
> 
> 1) Suggestion on which one would be better? I think they both support HDR up to what the 5040UB can do, but I'm not 100% sure. The first one seems like a better bet because the specs are more specific.
> 
> 2) With my primary source being ATV4 (soon to be 4K) for movies/TV and XBone (soon to be XboneS) for games - as I understand it, the only reason I would want to add a HDFury Linker is if I want HDR out of the XboneS - right? (Because it outputs 4:4:4 which the 5040 can't accept). Is this correct?
> 
> 3) I also have a Roku Premier 4K which I'm not using. If I were to add it in, would that make a difference to answer to (2)?
> 
> You guys are awesome for helping people out here who are approaching this from that awkward middle ground between casual "set it and forget it" user and the advanced power user. So - thank you.


If anyone can help, I would appreciate it. Looking to make some purchases this week to get the 4K up and running.


----------



## b curry

smilingangel said:


> New 6040 owner. Is there a wiki with recommended cables for this projector? We will be hooking it up within the next week or so. It will be hooked to a 4k player, and denon 4300. We may eventually hook it up to a Dish receiver. No streaming (internet is too slow). We do have the room wired for Atmos. Thank you.


Assuming you're talking about HDMI cables, Arrow Audiovisual has tested and compiled the most useful data for "HDMI CABLES WHICH PROPERLY AND RELIABLY SUPPORT 18GBPS & HDMI 2.0b" that I know of.

Certain, but not all cables from Monoprice and RUIPRO have preformed the best.

Reference his attached pdf in the first post from the link below.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-h...operly-reliably-support-18gbps-hdmi-2-0b.html


----------



## Dave Harper

readthis13 said:


> ......
> When I first started playing hdr blurays, they were too dark. And after reading about this issue, people suggested that a Linker could strip the HDR, and keep the BT.2020. So I set that up, used the Harpervision SDR settings, and the images on Bright Cinema look amazing. Even the hdr Netflix content looks brilliant.
> 
> ........



OK, I've said this so many times that I can't even breathe anymore. Please read slowly, carefully and with intention and purpose........

HarperVision is *NOT FOR SDR SIGNALS, ONLY HDR!!!*




readthis13 said:


> .......- My questions however, is do I even need the linker as I can manually select SDR in the Epson menu?.....


No you don't need a Linker and *YES*, set it to SDR manually in the menu while sending the *FULL TRUE HDR SIGNAL* to the projector! That's what HarperVision HDR in SDR (mode) is for God's sake!

No wonder so many folks say it's not so great here or there's not further raving about it. They surely don't have it setup or dialed in properly because if they did your eyes would be popped out and drool would be trickling out of the corner of your mouths! Haha! 

I am actually considering getting another 5040 to save some cash and throw a maybe even better image, if that tells you anything? Yes, it's THAT good!

Sorry for the rant, but come guys, if you're going to spend thousands on a projector and system, take a few hours and read comprehensively and thoroughly to at least get the basics of what has to be done!

Carry on, don't mind me!


----------



## jpgfontes

jwhn said:


> For the record I essentially watch everything in 24hz because most content is shot in 24. I don't have any issues with jerky video. HDR / 4K works great with Amazon and UHD players. It's only Netflix that's an issue and in that case HDR in 1080p is just fine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi! I've been searching for an answer but couldn't find. How exactly do you do to get Netflix to stream 1080P with HDR to the 5040?
Thanks!


----------



## Chris the Rock

Dave Harper said:


> I am actually considering getting another 5040 to save some cash and throw a maybe even better image, if that tells you anything? Yes, it's THAT good!


I would be very interested to read anything you share if you got your hands on one again.


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> OK, I've said this so many times that I can't even breathe anymore. Please read slowly, carefully and with intention and purpose........
> 
> HarperVision is *NOT FOR SDR SIGNALS, ONLY HDR!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No you don't need a Linker and *YES*, set it to SDR manually in the menu while sending the *FULL TRUE HDR SIGNAL* to the projector! That's what HarperVision HDR in SDR (mode) is for God's sake!
> 
> No wonder so many folks say it's not so great here or there's not further raving about it. They surely don't have it setup or dialed in properly because if they did your eyes would be popped out and drool would be trickling out of the corner of your mouths! Haha!
> 
> I am actually considering getting another 5040 to save some cash and throw a maybe even better image, if that tells you anything? Yes, it's THAT good!
> 
> Sorry for the rant, but come guys, if you're going to spend thousands on a projector and system, take a few hours and read comprehensively and thoroughly to at least get the basics of what has to be done!
> 
> Carry on, don't mind me!



Lol


----------



## readthis13

Dave Harper said:


> OK, I've said this so many times that I can't even breathe anymore. Please read slowly, carefully and with intention and purpose........
> 
> HarperVision is *NOT FOR SDR SIGNALS, ONLY HDR!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No you don't need a Linker and *YES*, set it to SDR manually in the menu while sending the *FULL TRUE HDR SIGNAL* to the projector! That's what HarperVision HDR in SDR (mode) is for God's sake!
> 
> No wonder so many folks say it's not so great here or there's not further raving about it. They surely don't have it setup or dialed in properly because if they did your eyes would be popped out and drool would be trickling out of the corner of your mouths! Haha!
> 
> I am actually considering getting another 5040 to save some cash and throw a maybe even better image, if that tells you anything? Yes, it's THAT good!
> 
> Sorry for the rant, but come guys, if you're going to spend thousands on a projector and system, take a few hours and read comprehensively and thoroughly to at least get the basics of what has to be done!
> 
> Carry on, don't mind me!


It must be nice to know everything about everything... I mean, I can't fathom you asking anyone for any help about anything w/ this sort of attitude. God forbid anyone ask any questions on a forum designed for such (and even offer to pay for the help). It's also appreciated (and professional) when you talk down to people in an incredibly disrespectful manner, and reply in bold letters. Way to keyboard warrior the F out of that post man! Glad you got involved here...

Except here's the funny thing... It's clear that you're *not* reading my post. I'm in no way asking for an improvement on your "Harpervision" settings from my HDR -> Linker -> SDR + BT.2020. I simply asked if the Linker was necessary, *not* how to improve the HDR specific signal. As I mentioned, the "Harpervision" settings, do work the way I have them, and make the image look amazing. There appears to be no difference in setting the HDR to SDR on the PJ w/ your settings, and letting the Linker strip the HDR while pass the BT.2020 (which is what I have now), w/ your settings. This clearly isn't an issue w/ the *FULL TRUE HDR SIGNAL*, and that's *NOT* what I'm asking (or ever did ask). Ironic you decided to reply by yelling (or whatever you want to call it in caps) at someone to read these (1000's) of posts, yet fails to do so yourself. You are replying / stating your opinion on something I never asked of you or the group. And your response is clearly wrong for my situation as the image (as I already stated twice in my original post) looks amazing... But carry on. 

For anyone else out there that'd be open to responding w/o being a complete DB, here were my specific original questions...

- My questions however, is do I even need the linker as I can manually select SDR in the Epson menu?(Sounds like for this specific purpose, I don't) Or is there another benefit to keeping the Linker you might see? I’m also open to replacing the xbone with a Shield or something else if needed.

- Also, does anyone have any recommended 1080 SDR (non BT.2020) calibrations I could try?

- Finally, has anyone found a good way to get brighter HDR? On default Bright Cinema mode, it doesn’t look good (colors are washed out, and darks seem too dark).

Remember, I'm willing to pay for help on this as I don't know it all (shocking that not all of us know everything about this stuff, but are willing to act respectfully and cover the cost of someone's time that knows more about this).


----------



## jwhn

jpgfontes said:


> Hi! I've been searching for an answer but couldn't find. How exactly do you do to get Netflix to stream 1080P with HDR to the 5040?
> Thanks!


I'm assuming you mean with the Nvidia Shield TV. If so, try this.

1. Update the Shield to 6.0 (not necessary but worth doing)
2. I also updated the Netflix app. I had to do this manually by going to a site that stores the latest APKs and then used ES File Explorer that I installed on the Shield. The older app should work fine though (just not sure whether some of the things that were fixed came from the Shield or the Netflix update because I did both at the same time)
3. Set the Shield to resolution 23.976 Hz and make sure the color space is set to Rec.2020. Go to Settings-->Display & Sound --> Advanced Settings --> HMDI Settings --> Turn Off "Set to Recommend" --> HMDI Display Modes and then select 3840x2160 23.976 Hz YUV 422 12-bit Rec. 2020. Make sure to accept the changes.
4. Set the 5040 Color Space to Auto and Dynamic Range to Auto (Bright) (both under Signal--> Advanced)
5. Open the Netflix app and search for Marco Polo (or other HDR content). If you don't see HDR in the program info, go to the Netflix options (the gear icon) and click Exit Netflix. Now open Netflix again and go back to the HDR content. If you still don't see HDR in the programming menu, restart the Shield and try again.

After installing the updates, I no longer have to restart Netflix or the Shield (had to before) so this is much easier.

This will be Netflix sending HDR in 1080p resolution with the Shield upscaling (not the 5040 upscaling as Dave Harper corrected me on). ; ) 

Good luck.


----------



## Dave Harper

readthis13 said:


> It must be nice to know everything about everything... I mean, I can't fathom you asking anyone for any help about anything w/ this sort of attitude. God forbid anyone ask any questions on a forum designed for such (and even offer to pay for the help). It's also appreciated (and professional) when you talk down to people in an incredibly disrespectful manner, and reply in bold letters. Way to keyboard warrior the F out of that post man! Glad you got involved here...


So sorry you took the brunt of that readthis13! I quoted your post, but it really wasn't meant for you specifically. I guess you were the fall guy, and I apologize! I certainly don't know it all nor pretend to. 

That post of mine was for the millionth time that I read posts talking about HarperVision with SDR and me having to explain over and over and over again that it isn't, when I even have listed it step by step and explained it that you send the full HDR signal to the projector and then manually select SDR in the menu. The key is, the projector MUST be getting the full, unaltered HDR signal for this to work properly and look correct! I have also included links to the posts explaining the step by step procedures that explain this, but alas, I still have to keep clarifying and it was getting old and your post was the tipping point. Again, sorry, but read below because according to what you're saying, you still don't completely understand, and I think I am indeed reading your post correctly. If not please clarify (and feel free to yell at me too, haha!).




readthis13 said:


> ......Except here's the funny thing... It's clear that you're *not* reading my post. *I'm in no way asking for an improvement on your "Harpervision" settings from my HDR -> Linker -> SDR + BT.2020.* I simply asked if the Linker was necessary, *not* how to improve the HDR specific signal. As I mentioned, the "Harpervision" settings, do work the way I have them, and make the image look amazing. There appears to be no difference in setting the HDR to SDR on the PJ w/ your settings, and letting the Linker strip the HDR while pass the BT.2020 (which is what I have now), w/ your settings. This clearly isn't an issue w/ the *FULL TRUE HDR SIGNAL*, and that's *NOT* what I'm asking (or ever did ask). Ironic you decided to reply by yelling (or whatever you want to call it in caps) at someone to read these (1000's) of posts, yet fails to do so yourself. You are replying / stating your opinion on something I never asked of you or the group. And your response is clearly wrong for my situation as the image (as I already stated twice in my original post) looks amazing... But carry on......


See your *bolded in red* response to me above. You mention using the Linker to strip the HDR then send SDR BT2020 to the projector. That is what is wrong. The projector, again, needs to get the full HDR signal for my settings work properly. I have no idea how you got an amazing image as you're saying, because my gamma and picture settings would be WAY overblown for an SDR signal.





readthis13 said:


> ...For anyone else out there that'd be open to responding w/o being a complete DB, here were my specific original questions...
> 
> - My questions however, is do I even need the linker as I can manually select SDR in the Epson menu?(Sounds like for this specific purpose, I don't) Or is there another benefit to keeping the Linker you might see? I’m also open to replacing the xbone with a Shield or something else if needed....


Sorry, really not trying to be a "DB", but this is further evidence that you may not understand how this is all working. When you select SDR in the projector menu, you're not changing the signal that is being input one iota. You are just telling the projector what mode (set of features and settings) for it to set itself to in anticipation of it receiving the signal for which you set it to, in this case, SDR. In turn, when you set the Linker to "strip HDR", that is actually physically/electrically/electronically altering the signal and stripping off the HDR metadata and tone mapping the HDR signal into an SDR signal. So by you doing that with the Linker in the chain, you are actually then sending an SDR signal into the 5040, NOT an HDR one, hence making my HarperVision settings the wrong ones to use for that signal.

Does that help clear it up?





readthis13 said:


> ......- Finally, has anyone found a good way to get brighter HDR? On default Bright Cinema mode, it doesn’t look good (colors are washed out, and darks seem too dark)..........


Yes, use my HarperVision settings the way I explained and the way they're intended and the signal will be brighter in HDR. That is the whole reason I did all this experimentation and created it after all.

Once again, so sorry and I apologize. I am a smart axx (or maybe dumb axx really, hmmmmm  ) sometimes and it doesn't come across well online, in forums or in texts. Ask me and my wife how I know! 

Enjoy it if it works. If not, all good!


----------



## jpgfontes

Does the 5040 limits only HDR when in 4k 60hz mode or does it also uses 709 instead of 2020 when set this way?
I'm using Netflix 4k, 60hz with Mibox 3 and I'm getting 709 SDR. Is this like the HDR limitation of the projector, is it Netflix SDR's standard or is it a limitation of the MI box 3 (I know it is a poor streaming device, especially when compared to the Shield)?


----------



## carp

readthis13 said:


> It must be nice to know everything about everything... I mean, I can't fathom you asking anyone for any help about anything w/ this sort of attitude. God forbid anyone ask any questions on a forum designed for such (and even offer to pay for the help). It's also appreciated (and professional) when you talk down to people in an incredibly disrespectful manner, and reply in bold letters. Way to keyboard warrior the F out of that post man! Glad you got involved here...
> 
> Except here's the funny thing... It's clear that you're *not* reading my post. I'm in no way asking for an improvement on your "Harpervision" settings from my HDR -> Linker -> SDR + BT.2020. I simply asked if the Linker was necessary, *not* how to improve the HDR specific signal. As I mentioned, the "Harpervision" settings, do work the way I have them, and make the image look amazing. There appears to be no difference in setting the HDR to SDR on the PJ w/ your settings, and letting the Linker strip the HDR while pass the BT.2020 (which is what I have now), w/ your settings. This clearly isn't an issue w/ the *FULL TRUE HDR SIGNAL*, and that's *NOT* what I'm asking (or ever did ask). Ironic you decided to reply by yelling (or whatever you want to call it in caps) at someone to read these (1000's) of posts, yet fails to do so yourself. You are replying / stating your opinion on something I never asked of you or the group. And your response is clearly wrong for my situation as the image (as I already stated twice in my original post) looks amazing... But carry on.
> 
> For anyone else out there that'd be open to responding w/o being a complete DB, here were my specific original questions...
> 
> - My questions however, is do I even need the linker as I can manually select SDR in the Epson menu?(Sounds like for this specific purpose, I don't) Or is there another benefit to keeping the Linker you might see? I’m also open to replacing the xbone with a Shield or something else if needed.
> 
> - Also, does anyone have any recommended 1080 SDR (non BT.2020) calibrations I could try?
> 
> - Finally, has anyone found a good way to get brighter HDR? On default Bright Cinema mode, it doesn’t look good (colors are washed out, and darks seem too dark).
> 
> Remember, I'm willing to pay for help on this as I don't know it all (shocking that not all of us know everything about this stuff, but are willing to act respectfully and cover the cost of someone's time that knows more about this).




Dave is about as helpful and friendly as it gets. I can see how you misinterpreted, thinking all of his comments in that post were directed at you because I was kind of cringing when I read it because I could see how it could be taken that way.


----------



## jwhn

jpgfontes said:


> Does the 5040 limits only HDR when in 4k 60hz mode or does it also uses 709 instead of 2020 when set this way?
> I'm using Netflix 4k, 60hz with Mibox 3 and I'm getting 709 SDR. Is this like the HDR limitation of the projector, is it Netflix SDR's standard or is it a limitation of the MI box 3 (I know it is a poor streaming device, especially when compared to the Shield)?


I don't think you can get Rec.2020 in 60Hz mode (at least I have never been able to) - only at 30Hz or lower. But you likely wouldn't want to anyway because in general Rec.2020 is the color space you want with HDR (which you can't get at 60Hz with the 5040). You might have better luck if you explain what you are trying to do. ; )


----------



## jpgfontes

jwhn said:


> I don't think you can get Rec.2020 in 60Hz mode (at least I have never been able to) - only at 30Hz or lower. But you likely wouldn't want to anyway because in general Rec.2020 is the color space you want with HDR (which you can't get at 60Hz with the 5040). You might have better luck if you explain what you are trying to do. ; )


I've just bought my 5040 (last week) and since I don't own a UHD bluray player or a Nvidia Shield TV, I was trying to get a Bt.2020 source in order to compare it with the 709. In the matter of fact, reading the thread today I found out I shouldn't be using the Cinema mode, since it uses the color filter designed for BT.2020 signal and all my sources are REC709. That probably explains why my 5040 needed color adjustments with DVE while the THX mode of my old 5020 didn't! 
Since my current streaming devices are Chromecast 4k and MI box3 (with both I can't get the HDR with the 5040), I was hoping to try out at least the Bt.2020 standard... Don't know if it is possible with my current devices though.


----------



## jwhn

jpgfontes said:


> I've just bought my 5040 (last week) and since I don't own a UHD bluray player or a Nvidia Shield TV, I was trying to get a Bt.2020 source in order to compare it with the 709. In the matter of fact, reading the thread today I found out I shouldn't be using the Cinema mode, since it uses the color filter designed for BT.2020 signal and all my sources are REC709. That probably explains why my 5040 needed color adjustments with DVE while the THX mode of my old 5020 didn't!
> Since my current streaming devices are Chromecast 4k and MI box3 (with both I can't get the HDR with the 5040), I was hoping to try out at least the Bt.2020 standard... Don't know if it is possible with my current devices though.


To try out BT.2020 I think you would need the content to be utilizing the wider color gamut (DCI-P3). I'm not aware of any content you can stream that uses this color space but is not HDR. So for practical purposes related to streaming content on the 5040, HDR and BT.2020 are related. 

Maybe Dave or one of the other experts here can provide more (and better) input.


----------



## readthis13

Dave Harper said:


> So sorry you took the brunt of that readthis13! I quoted your post, but it really wasn't meant for you specifically. I guess you were the fall guy, and I apologize! I certainly don't know it all nor pretend to.
> 
> That post of mine was for the millionth time that I read posts talking about HarperVision with SDR and me having to explain over and over and over again that it isn't, when I even have listed it step by step and explained it that you send the full HDR signal to the projector and then manually select SDR in the menu. The key is, the projector MUST be getting the full, unaltered HDR signal for this to work properly and look correct! I have also included links to the posts explaining the step by step procedures that explain this, but alas, I still have to keep clarifying and it was getting old and your post was the tipping point. Again, sorry, but read below because according to what you're saying, you still don't completely understand, and I think I am indeed reading your post correctly. If not please clarify (and feel free to yell at me too, haha!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See your *bolded in red* response to me above. You mention using the Linker to strip the HDR then send SDR BT2020 to the projector. That is what is wrong. The projector, again, needs to get the full HDR signal for my settings work properly. I have no idea how you got an amazing image as you're saying, because my gamma and picture settings would be WAY overblown for an SDR signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, really not trying to be a "DB", but this is further evidence that you may not understand how this is all working. When you select SDR in the projector menu, you're not changing the signal that is being input one iota. You are just telling the projector what mode (set of features and settings) for it to set itself to in anticipation of it receiving the signal for which you set it to, in this case, SDR. In turn, when you set the Linker to "strip HDR", that is actually physically/electrically/electronically altering the signal and stripping off the HDR metadata and tone mapping the HDR signal into an SDR signal. So by you doing that with the Linker in the chain, you are actually then sending an SDR signal into the 5040, NOT an HDR one, hence making my HarperVision settings the wrong ones to use for that signal.
> 
> Does that help clear it up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, use my HarperVision settings the way I explained and the way they're intended and the signal will be brighter in HDR. That is the whole reason I did all this experimentation and created it after all.
> 
> Once again, so sorry and I apologize. I am a smart axx (or maybe dumb axx really, hmmmmm  ) sometimes and it doesn't come across well online, in forums or in texts. Ask me and my wife how I know!
> 
> Enjoy it if it works. If not, all good!


Appreciate you clearing this up Dave, and I accept your apology. Yes, I felt as though you were focusing that all on me, and it took me by surprise as I PM'd you prior to my original post, offering to pay for your direct help via email (to hopefully avoid stuff like this). It's reasons like this that I try to do a TON of prior research, and offer to pay the experts directly. I never want to be "that guy"... But I'm glad you clear that up, and responded the way you did. 

I also want to be clear that I understand that your settings are designed for HDR to SDR (with the HDR coming out of the original source). It's what I believed I was / am doing - due to the Linker, which isn't specifically covered anywhere in your posts that I could find -, and it's yielded an amazing picture. As I originally stated, I didn't start w/ your settings. I started w/ the Linker, w/ the goal of a brighter HDR image. Then, I thought that I'd test your settings... After being happy there, I sought out advice on how to do something more w/ 1080 SDR BT.709.

I had thought that I was sending the desirable parts of the HDR signal (BT.2020, and maybe more?) to my PJ w/ the Linker, and was having the Linker remove whatever was causing the image to be so dark. 

But whatever it's sending now, w/ BT.2020, looks amazing. I used the gamma settings as you have them in your second image on post 7220. All movies pop (naturally). I now get "HDR @ 60hz" content from Netflix (due to the Linker, and obviously I know it's stripping part of the HDR stuff allowing this to happen), and it all looks amazing as well. 

IF, however, I run native SDR content through w/ your settings on anything that's BT.709, the image looks really bad (and overblown as you mentioned). It's due to that that I figured that someone had dialed in the PJ for native SDR, and asked for the settings in my OP. This is something I'm still after BTW.

My original "guess", was that the Linker is doing whatever the PJ does when you manually set it to SDR, and that the PJ likely striped out whatever the Linker does... Based on your last response, I must be wrong, but everyone that's seen your settings, w/ the Linker, on an original HDR image, has been blown away. It makes me not want to watch SDR of any type.

In fact, I did bypass the Linker yesterday to test Netflix's Iron Fist. W/O the Linker, Netflix wouldn't give me any HDR options on the XBone1s, so I tried watching the same show in 4k SDR. I immediately went back to plugging in the Linker, and changed back to your settings... The color depth is just so much better IMO. This, more than anything else, had caused me to believe that your settings were really for BT.2020, and as long as I got that, it'd work (which it has)...

I will test bypassing the Linker w/ your settings (and setting the PJ to SDR), and get back to you. I can't argue that my current image looks amazing to me (even if I'm wrong with my thoughts on how this all worked). However, maybe my image will get better by bypassing the Linker, which would be a win for me, and a reason I'd happy to be wrong. 

Either way though, what I will say, is that I don't want to watch Netflix w/o my current setup (Linker + your settings)...


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> To try out BT.2020 I think you would need the content to be utilizing the wider color gamut (DCI-P3). I'm not aware of any content you can stream that uses this color space but is not HDR. So for practical purposes related to streaming content on the 5040, HDR and BT.2020 are related.
> 
> Maybe Dave or one of the other experts here can provide more (and better) input.


I know there are some programs/shows/movies that have been said to be SDR bt2020/DCI-P3. I don't recall coming across any myself. What I know tons of folks do though is use the Linker or Integral (and upcoming Vertex or Oppo 203 UHD Bluray player) to strip the HDR metadata which forces the source in many instances to instead send SDR BT2020 with the proper settings. I have done that with my Panasonic UB900 and Linker and I also get SDR 4K BT2020 on my Shield when using Netflix, since I have the same 10.2 Gbps HDMI input limitation as you guys do with my LS10500.



readthis13 said:


> Appreciate you clearing this up Dave, and I accept your apology. Yes, I felt as though you were focusing that all on me, and it took me by surprise as I PM'd you prior to my original post, offering to pay for your direct help via email (to hopefully avoid stuff like this). It's reasons like this that I try to do a TON of prior research, and offer to pay the experts directly. I never want to be "that guy"... But I'm glad you clear that up, and responded the way you did.
> 
> I also want to be clear that I understand that your settings are designed for HDR to SDR (with the HDR coming out of the original source). It's what I believed I was / am doing - due to the Linker, which isn't specifically covered anywhere in your posts that I could find -, and it's yielded an amazing picture. As I originally stated, I didn't start w/ your settings. I started w/ the Linker, w/ the goal of a brighter HDR image. Then, I thought that I'd test your settings... After being happy there, I sought out advice on how to do something more w/ 1080 SDR BT.709.
> 
> I had thought that I was sending the desirable parts of the HDR signal (BT.2020, and maybe more?) to my PJ w/ the Linker, and was having the Linker remove whatever was causing the image to be so dark.
> 
> But whatever it's sending now, w/ BT.2020, looks amazing. I used the gamma settings as you have them in your second image on post 7220. All movies pop (naturally). I now get "HDR @ 60hz" content from Netflix (due to the Linker, and obviously I know it's stripping part of the HDR stuff allowing this to happen), and it all looks amazing as well.
> 
> IF, however, I run native SDR content through w/ your settings on anything that's BT.709, the image looks really bad (and overblown as you mentioned). It's due to that that I figured that someone had dialed in the PJ for native SDR, and asked for the settings in my OP. This is something I'm still after BTW.
> 
> My original "guess", was that the Linker is doing whatever the PJ does when you manually set it to SDR, and that the PJ likely striped out whatever the Linker does... Based on your last response, I must be wrong, but everyone that's seen your settings, w/ the Linker, on an original HDR image, has been blown away. It makes me not want to watch SDR of any type.
> 
> In fact, I did bypass the Linker yesterday to test Netflix's Iron Fist. W/O the Linker, Netflix wouldn't give me any HDR options on the XBone1s, so I tried watching the same show in 4k SDR. I immediately went back to plugging in the Linker, and changed back to your settings... The color depth is just so much better IMO. This, more than anything else, had caused me to believe that your settings were really for BT.2020, and as long as I got that, it'd work (which it has)...
> 
> I will test bypassing the Linker w/ your settings (and setting the PJ to SDR), and get back to you. I can't argue that my current image looks amazing to me (even if I'm wrong with my thoughts on how this all worked). However, maybe my image will get better by bypassing the Linker, which would be a win for me, and a reason I'd happy to be wrong.
> 
> Either way though, what I will say, is that I don't want to watch Netflix w/o my current setup (Linker + your settings)...


Thank you so much for your understanding and accepting my apologies! I'm sorry, when I replied I didn't put the two and two together and realize you were the same guy that PMed me either, DOH! So maybe I am a dumb axx, haha! I do get a lot of PMs asking for help, so they do start to blend together, sorry.

I have a question though. Were you really stripping off HDR and converting to SDR with the Linker? What EDID are you using on it? I am wondering if you were actually still sending full HDR to the 5040 and that's why it's still looking good and reacting the way you describe above? Maybe send screen shots of your Linker settings screens?


----------



## readthis13

Dave Harper said:


> I know there are some programs/shows/movies that have been said to be SDR bt2020/DCI-P3. I don't recall coming across any myself. What I know tons of folks do though is use the Linker or Integral (and upcoming Vertex or Oppo 203 UHD Bluray player) to strip the HDR metadata which forces the source in many instances to instead send SDR BT2020 with the proper settings. I have done that with my Panasonic UB900 and Linker and I also get SDR 4K BT2020 on my Shield when using Netflix, since I have the same 10.2 Gbps HDMI input limitation as you guys do with my LS10500.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for your understanding and accepting my apologies! I'm sorry, when I replied I didn't put the two and two together and realize you were the same guy that PMed me either, DOH! So maybe I am a dumb axx, haha! I do get a lot of PMs asking for help, so they do start to blend together, sorry.
> 
> I have a question though. Were you really stripping off HDR and converting to SDR with the Linker? What EDID are you using on it? I am wondering if you were actually still sending full HDR to the 5040 and that's why it's still looking good and reacting the way you describe above? Maybe send screen shots of your Linker settings screens?


Here's the settings I have on the Linker. You can see the "Disable HDR" option enabled, and I can confirm that the PJ says it's getting SDR BT.2020.


----------



## SolRebel

Dave Harper said:


> So sorry you took the brunt of that readthis13! I quoted your post, but it really wasn't meant for you specifically. I guess you were the fall guy, and I apologize! I certainly don't know it all nor pretend to.
> 
> That post of mine was for the millionth time that I read posts talking about HarperVision with SDR and me having to explain over and over and over again that it isn't, when I even have listed it step by step and explained it that you send the full HDR signal to the projector and then manually select SDR in the menu. The key is, the projector MUST be getting the full, unaltered HDR signal for this to work properly and look correct! I have also included links to the posts explaining the step by step procedures that explain this, but alas, I still have to keep clarifying and it was getting old and your post was the tipping point. Again, sorry, but read below because according to what you're saying, you still don't completely understand, and I think I am indeed reading your post correctly. If not please clarify (and feel free to yell at me too, haha!).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See your *bolded in red* response to me above. You mention using the Linker to strip the HDR then send SDR BT2020 to the projector. That is what is wrong. The projector, again, needs to get the full HDR signal for my settings work properly. I have no idea how you got an amazing image as you're saying, because my gamma and picture settings would be WAY overblown for an SDR signal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, really not trying to be a "DB", but this is further evidence that you may not understand how this is all working. When you select SDR in the projector menu, you're not changing the signal that is being input one iota. You are just telling the projector what mode (set of features and settings) for it to set itself to in anticipation of it receiving the signal for which you set it to, in this case, SDR. In turn, when you set the Linker to "strip HDR", that is actually physically/electrically/electronically altering the signal and stripping off the HDR metadata and tone mapping the HDR signal into an SDR signal. So by you doing that with the Linker in the chain, you are actually then sending an SDR signal into the 5040, NOT an HDR one, hence making my HarperVision settings the wrong ones to use for that signal.
> 
> Does that help clear it up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, use my HarperVision settings the way I explained and the way they're intended and the signal will be brighter in HDR. That is the whole reason I did all this experimentation and created it after all.
> 
> Once again, so sorry and I apologize. I am a smart axx (or maybe dumb axx really, hmmmmm  ) sometimes and it doesn't come across well online, in forums or in texts. Ask me and my wife how I know!
> 
> Enjoy it if it works. If not, all good!



Hey Dave,

Sorry I dropped out of this thread a while back and only just jumped back in when i started getting banding on the 4k HDR Apple TV movies. The back and forth here has me intrigued by whatever HarperVision is. Sounds like you send HDR but then switch to SDR somewhere in the projectors menu? Do you happen to have the link you mention below or any other info on how I can set this up? Would like to give it a test and see if it fixes my issue. Thanks!

"I read posts talking about HarperVision with SDR and me having to explain over and over and over again that it isn't, when I even have listed it step by step and explained it that you send the full HDR signal to the projector and then manually select SDR in the menu. The key is, the projector MUST be getting the full, unaltered HDR signal for this to work properly and look correct! I have also included links to the posts explaining the step by step procedures that explain this"


----------



## Dave Harper

readthis13 said:


> Here's the settings I have on the Linker. You can see the "Disable HDR" option enabled, and I can confirm that the PJ says it's getting SDR BT.2020.


A-ha, mystery solved! The "Disable HDR" check box is for only disabling the HDR flag that is sent with the signal so the display device won't automatically switch into HDR mode. The actual signal being sent is still full HDR. Many folks with the prior gen JVCs use this so that their projectors don't always switch to the unwanted "Gamma D" setting like it does when it detects HDR, so they can use their custom gamma settings created by the likes of Manni01, LovingDVD, Arve, et al. I also use the Linker in this fashion to use HarperVision on the Epson LS10000 (or any other non-HDR display) so you can fool the source into thinking your display is 100% HDR capable with the Linker and also fool your display into thinking it's only getting an SDR signal. 

If you want to send only SDR BT2020 like a lot of other folks like doing because they don't like HDR for whatever reason or have a display that doesn't support it natively (but does with HarperVision!), but does do extended color gamut like DCI-P3 like the Epson LS10000 does, then what you do is set the EDID to Custom 10 instead of Custom 8 like you have it shown in your third picture. This will give you _"10 - 4K60-420 12Bit BT.2020 All Sound"_ instead of _"8 - 4K60-420 12Bit *HDR* BT.2020 All Sound"_. Custom 10 strips off HDR as you can see, or tells the source to via the EDID anyway.

I bet if you uncheck that "Disable HDR" check box, the 5040's info menu will show HDR now, but the image using the HarperVision settings will look the same. After that, try changing to Custom EDID 10 and then your 5040 should be truly getting an SDR signal and at that point it shouldn't look right, just like when you reported it not looking correct when you went to your bt709 SDR sources but left the HarperVision settings in the menu. This is what I understood you were doing when you said you were "stripping HDR with the Linker".


----------



## Dave Harper

SolRebel said:


> Hey Dave,
> 
> Sorry I dropped out of this thread a while back and only just jumped back in when i started getting banding on the 4k HDR Apple TV movies. The back and forth here has me intrigued by whatever HarperVision is. Sounds like you send HDR but then switch to SDR somewhere in the projectors menu? Do you happen to have the link you mention below or any other info on how I can set this up? Would like to give it a test and see if it fixes my issue. Thanks!
> 
> "I read posts talking about HarperVision with SDR and me having to explain over and over and over again that it isn't, when I even have listed it step by step and explained it that you send the full HDR signal to the projector and then manually select SDR in the menu. The key is, the projector MUST be getting the full, unaltered HDR signal for this to work properly and look correct! I have also included links to the posts explaining the step by step procedures that explain this"


Yes, you are correct. You send full HDR BT2020 to the display device and then, if the display is HDR capable like the 5040, you go in manually and set it to SDR instead.

The link is below my signature. I think you have to be viewing on a PC web browser to see it all the time though. Here it is:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017


----------



## readthis13

Dave Harper said:


> A-ha, mystery solved! The "Disable HDR" check box is for only disabling the HDR flag that is sent with the signal so the display device won't automatically switch into HDR mode. The actual signal being sent is still full HDR. Many folks with the prior gen JVCs use this so that their projectors don't always switch to the unwanted "Gamma D" setting like it does when it detects HDR, so they can use their custom gamma settings created by the likes of Manni01, LovingDVD, Arve, et al. I also use the Linker in this fashion to use HarperVision on the Epson LS10000 (or any other non-HDR display) so you can fool the source into thinking your display is 100% HDR capable with the Linker and also fool your display into thinking it's only getting an SDR signal.
> 
> If you want to send only SDR BT2020 like a lot of other folks like doing because they don't like HDR for whatever reason or have a display that doesn't support it natively (but does with HarperVision!), but does do extended color gamut like DCI-P3 like the Epson LS10000 does, then what you do is set the EDID to Custom 10 instead of Custom 8 like you have it shown in your third picture. This will give you _"10 - 4K60-420 12Bit BT.2020 All Sound"_ instead of _"8 - 4K60-420 12Bit *HDR* BT.2020 All Sound"_. Custom 10 strips off HDR as you can see, or tells the source to via the EDID anyway.
> 
> I bet if you uncheck that "Disable HDR" check box, the 5040's info menu will show HDR now, but the image using the HarperVision settings will look the same. After that, try changing to Custom EDID 10 and then your 5040 should be truly getting an SDR signal and at that point it shouldn't look right, just like when you reported it not looking correct when you went to your bt709 SDR sources but left the HarperVision settings in the menu. This is what I understood you were doing when you said you were "stripping HDR with the Linker".


Well damn... I reached out the HDFury guys last week, but got very little help. This makes sense. However, having a "Disable HDR" button led me to believe that that's what that option did (especially since I didn't get "HDR" showing up on the PJ). I'd have to believe that there'd a TON of other ways to label that option that'd make more sense. At any rate, thanks for clearing this up. 

The upside to the Linker then (the only that I can see here), is that it allows for HDR content from Netflix (and likely others). Being that I am in fact getting HDR content, and it's bright enough to see (with your settings), there's no way I'd ever choose option 10. Non HDR is completely worthless IMO.

Are there any other settings you see on my Linker that you'd suggest changing (that'd only make things better for me overall)?

Any chance you have "Harpervision" configs somewhere for native SDR for this PJ? 

Also, I've noticed that "Harpervision" is a tad greenish in the whites. Any easy way to fix?

BTW, I'm still happy to pay for dedicated help here, but this should benefit the rest of the community I'd imagine. Appreciate the clarification here. Seems we were both on the same page after all (your settings looking really good, so tons of thanks for that), other than that what I understood the settings to be from the Linker caused the confusion.


----------



## ac388

*Missing CMS settings*

It will be an excellent news for me if Dave decide to pick up a 5040 again, since there are some missing CMS settings that I have long been waiting for !!!
I love Harpervision n will pray tonight before I go to bed 




Dave Harper said:


> OK, I've said this so many times that I can't even breathe anymore. Please read slowly, carefully and with intention and purpose........
> 
> HarperVision is *NOT FOR SDR SIGNALS, ONLY HDR!!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No you don't need a Linker and *YES*, set it to SDR manually in the menu while sending the *FULL TRUE HDR SIGNAL* to the projector! That's what HarperVision HDR in SDR (mode) is for God's sake!
> 
> No wonder so many folks say it's not so great here or there's not further raving about it. They surely don't have it setup or dialed in properly because if they did your eyes would be popped out and drool would be trickling out of the corner of your mouths! Haha!
> 
> I am actually considering getting another 5040 to save some cash and throw a maybe even better image, if that tells you anything? Yes, it's THAT good!
> 
> Sorry for the rant, but come guys, if you're going to spend thousands on a projector and system, take a few hours and read comprehensively and thoroughly to at least get the basics of what has to be done!
> 
> Carry on, don't mind me!


----------



## Dave Harper

readthis13 said:


> Well damn... I reached out the HDFury guys last week, but got very little help. This makes sense. However, having a "Disable HDR" button led me to believe that that's what that option did (especially since I didn't get "HDR" showing up on the PJ). I'd have to believe that there'd a TON of other ways to label that option that'd make more sense. At any rate, thanks for clearing this up.
> 
> The upside to the Linker then (the only that I can see here), is that it allows for HDR content from Netflix (and likely others). Being that I am in fact getting HDR content, and it's bright enough to see (with your settings), there's no way I'd ever choose option 10. Non HDR is completely worthless IMO.
> 
> Are there any other settings you see on my Linker that you'd suggest changing (that'd only make things better for me overall)?
> 
> Any chance you have "Harpervision" configs somewhere for native SDR for this PJ?
> 
> Also, I've noticed that "Harpervision" is a tad greenish in the whites. Any easy way to fix?
> 
> BTW, I'm still happy to pay for dedicated help here, but this should benefit the rest of the community I'd imagine. Appreciate the clarification here. Seems we were both on the same page after all (your settings looking really good, so tons of thanks for that), other than that what I understood the settings to be from the Linker caused the confusion.


Other than unchecking that "Disable HDR" box (except for folks that have a non-HDR 4K display!), you have it setup the way I would too. I haven't messed with those "Basic Settings" check boxes in the Scaling Tab, so not sure what those are giving you?

I just use Natural mode for SDR 4K and 1080p and then do a basic calibration with patterns on disc or flash drive. To get it best then I would say to hire a calibrator because more than that needs meters and a trained eye.

To tame the greenish hue it needs the CMS calibrated, but as I posted here I regrettably sent it away before I recorded the calibrated CMS values when I sold my 5040 and have been kicking myself in the butt ever since!!!  I have looked at every digital file I can think of and I just can't find it. I did email the person I sold it to and he said he only games and doesn't like HDR so he wiped my calibrated settings! The only way to get them again would be for someone to send me their unit and I would do a free calibration and HV setup on it and make sure I record the settings this time!

Thanks for helping solve this and sorry for freaking out!



ac388 said:


> It will be an excellent news for me if Dave decide to pick up a 5040 again, since there are some missing CMS settings that I have long been waiting for !!!
> I love Harpervision n will pray tonight before I go to bed




On a more somber note, please say a *HUGE* prayer for everyone affected by that horrendous shooting in Las Vegas too!!!


----------



## ac388

Yes, I did that last night already. My condolences go out to all victims as well as their families .


----------



## Mar-Vell

I’m having a bit of an issue here with my calibration settings, and I hope someone here can help me with it. Being completely new to projectors, I’ve been checking out the the absolutely fantastic PDF that was posted in this thread with the various calibration settings options. I tried setting up the first one ‘oledurt Bright Cinema version 2’ and everything seems fine except for one setting that is greyed out so I can’t change it. Under, ‘Signal - Advanced ‘ I can’t set ‘HDMI Vid Range’ to ‘Expanded’. I’ve gone back and checked all my settings and everything matches the ‘oledurt Bright Cinema version 2’, so I’m not sure why that one part is greyed out. If anyone can shed some light on what the reason may be that I cannot make this change is, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks!


----------



## Juiced46

Mar-Vell said:


> I’m having a bit of an issue here with my calibration settings, and I hope someone here can help me with it. Being completely new to projectors, I’ve been checking out the the absolutely fantastic PDF that was posted in this thread with the various calibration settings options. I tried setting up the first one ‘oledurt Bright Cinema version 2’ and everything seems fine except for one setting that is greyed out so I can’t change it. Under, ‘Signal - Advanced ‘ I can’t set ‘HDMI Vid Range’ to ‘Expanded’. I’ve gone back and checked all my settings and everything matches the ‘oledurt Bright Cinema version 2’, so I’m not sure why that one part is greyed out. If anyone can shed some light on what the reason may be that I cannot make this change is, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks!


Are you calibrating with no video signal going to it? Load up some HDR content and it should be selectable.


----------



## Mar-Vell

Thank you for the quick response!

I’m pretty sure I did have HDR content playing, but I’ll check that when I get home later today. It is entirely possible though, that I wasn’t. I’ve been sampling quite a few different sources from the Apple TV 4K and not everything was in HDR.


----------



## Lesmor

Mar-Vell said:


> I’m having a bit of an issue here with my calibration settings, and I hope someone here can help me with it. Being completely new to projectors, I’ve been checking out the the absolutely fantastic PDF that was posted in this thread with the various calibration settings options. I tried setting up the first one ‘oledurt Bright Cinema version 2’ and everything seems fine except for one setting that is greyed out so I can’t change it. Under, ‘Signal - Advanced ‘ I can’t set ‘HDMI Vid Range’ to ‘Expanded’. I’ve gone back and checked all my settings and everything matches the ‘oledurt Bright Cinema version 2’, so I’m not sure why that one part is greyed out. If anyone can shed some light on what the reason may be that I cannot make this change is, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks!


Check "superwhite" is Off
If it is On HDMI "Expanded" will be greyed out


----------



## Mar-Vell

Funny, I just saw that in the manual right now! I’ll check that when I get home too. 
Thanks, guys!


----------



## Kevin Shipley

Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this question. I have been trying to understand the pros and cons of this projector as I am considering replacing my current Benq HT2050. The primary source I have connected to my projector is an Xbox One S which I use to game, stream netflix/amazon/hulu/hbo/vudu/etc, and use its BD player. I saw a post regarding some settings for the Xbox but it seemed that there were many limitations in what the Xbox would be able to deliver to this projector but I don't have a good sense for the level of impact those limitation have. I am also interested in getting an Xbox One X when they come out but am afraid this projector will limit what the One X will be capable of. Should I save my money and wait for a few iterations on 4k(ish) projectors or will the 5040ub provide a substantial upgrade over my Benq? I am particularly interested in getting better color and clarity. I also need a 4k display in order to receive the UHD containers from Vudu which include the Atmos sound tracks (dumb). 

Part of my is very obsessive about getting the best performance out of a device and I am concerned I will subconsciously be unhappy with the setup knowing that I am not able to send the best signal to the projector--even if there is little to no visual difference. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Juiced46

Kevin Shipley said:


> Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this question. I have been trying to understand the pros and cons of this projector as I am considering replacing my current Benq HT2050. The primary source I have connected to my projector is an Xbox One S which I use to game, stream netflix/amazon/hulu/hbo/vudu/etc, and use its BD player. I saw a post regarding some settings for the Xbox but it seemed that there were many limitations in what the Xbox would be able to deliver to this projector but I don't have a good sense for the level of impact those limitation have. I am also interested in getting an Xbox One X when they come out but am afraid this projector will limit what the One X will be capable of. Should I save my money and wait for a few iterations on 4k(ish) projectors or will the 5040ub provide a substantial upgrade over my Benq? I am particularly interested in getting better color and clarity. I also need a 4k display in order to receive the UHD containers from Vudu which include the Atmos sound tracks (dumb).
> 
> Part of my is very obsessive about getting the best performance out of a device and I am concerned I will subconsciously be unhappy with the setup knowing that I am not able to send the best signal to the projector--even if there is little to no visual difference.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


This is what you will get out of the Xbox One S if you are using that as all your sources. 

Gaming- 4K/60 SDR, You cannot get HDR gaming, unless you use a linker
UHD Blu Ray Disc- 4K/24 HDR
Amazon Prime- 4K/24 HDR
Netflix- Either 4K/SDR or 1080P/HDR, you will not get 4K and HDR

If you want HDR gaming with the Xbox One S, it is not going to happen. Unless you buy a linker. As far as the Xbox One X, you will definetely not get 4K/HDR gaming. You may be able to get 1080P/HDR like PS4 Pro, but nobody knows the specifics of the Xbox One X video outputs yet. We will have to wait another month to find out. 

With that being said. I upgraded from a 2 year old Epson 5025 to the 5040 and the difference was huge for me, even with non 4K SDR content. 

If you wait, its going to take a while for the price to come down. It will not be a year unless you want to spend $5k


----------



## inspector

Damn, I'm glad I only use physical discs to enjoy my PJ!


----------



## SALadder22FF

I've seen many people post about the hd fury linker, but up until now I didn't think much about it. I saw a post saying that there is no 4k HDR gaming without one. I'm waiting on the Xbox One X, but curious about that statement. 

What exactly does it do? Do people with them recommend them to get the most out of the projector?

Main reason I ask, is to find out if it will fix the inconvenience I have that when the directv changes channels and it goes from different resolutions the projector goes black changing. If this outputs the highest all the time will the projector not have to change e anytime I switch channels?


----------



## carlisle14

Mar-Vell said:


> I’m having a bit of an issue here with my calibration settings, and I hope someone here can help me with it. Being completely new to projectors, I’ve been checking out the the absolutely fantastic PDF that was posted in this thread with the various calibration settings options. I tried setting up the first one ‘oledurt Bright Cinema version 2’ and everything seems fine except for one setting that is greyed out so I can’t change it. Under, ‘Signal - Advanced ‘ I can’t set ‘HDMI Vid Range’ to ‘Expanded’. I’ve gone back and checked all my settings and everything matches the ‘oledurt Bright Cinema version 2’, so I’m not sure why that one part is greyed out. If anyone can shed some light on what the reason may be that I cannot make this change is, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks!


Hey can you send link to the PDF, or let me know the post number where I can find this calibration sheet?


----------



## Mar-Vell

carlisle14 said:


> Hey can you send link to the PDF, or let me know the post number where I can find this calibration sheet?


I found the link in post#10539

Hope this helps!


----------



## Mar-Vell

Lesmor said:


> Check "superwhite" is Off
> If it is On HDMI "Expanded" will be greyed out


That was it - I had Super White on. Everything is all set now. 
Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Kevin Shipley

Juiced46 said:


> This is what you will get out of the Xbox One S if you are using that as all your sources.
> 
> Gaming- 4K/60 SDR, You cannot get HDR gaming, unless you use a linker
> UHD Blu Ray Disc- 4K/24 HDR
> Amazon Prime- 4K/24 HDR
> Netflix- Either 4K/SDR or 1080P/HDR, you will not get 4K and HDR
> 
> If you want HDR gaming with the Xbox One S, it is not going to happen. Unless you buy a linker. As far as the Xbox One X, you will definetely not get 4K/HDR gaming. You may be able to get 1080P/HDR like PS4 Pro, but nobody knows the specifics of the Xbox One X video outputs yet. We will have to wait another month to find out.
> 
> With that being said. I upgraded from a 2 year old Epson 5025 to the 5040 and the difference was huge for me, even with non 4K SDR content.
> 
> If you wait, its going to take a while for the price to come down. It will not be a year unless you want to spend $5k


Are these limitations of the Xbox and Epson combo? If I used a dedicated UHD Blu Ray player could could i get 4k/60 HDR? Or if I grabbed a new Roku or Apple TV 4k, could that provide Netflix at 4k with HDR? Or is this projector just not built to handle those combos?


----------



## theuserdylan

Kevin Shipley said:


> Are these limitations of the Xbox and Epson combo? If I used a dedicated UHD Blu Ray player could could i get 4k/60 HDR? Or if I grabbed a new Roku or Apple TV 4k, could that provide Netflix at 4k with HDR? Or is this projector just not built to handle those combos?




The projector cannot do 4k 60 HDR because of the bandwidth limitation of the projector. It can do 4k 24 HDR, which makes interfaces judder but video looks fine because 24 FPS is standard. So you can get 4k Blu-ray HDR with a number of players including Xbox, you can also get 4k Amazon HDR with Xbox or Shield (and hopefully Apple TV soon). The Netflix situation is complicated. On the Shield you can get 4K or HDR. On the Xbox, you just get 4K, I believe. 

On Apple TV, I think I’m getting 4K HDR from Netflix. It’s complicated because if you setup Apple TV to 4K HDR it will send that to the projector regardless of the true output. But I see 4K HDR next to some programs. I’d get a second opinion on that though because I may be confused. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## pheek1g

So I finally received my 5040ub. Loving it so far, especially playing video games. However, I've noticed when I put the blu-ray version of movies instead of the UHD disk.. it seems to be more clear like actual 4k and better colors.. Am I doing something wrong? 

I also noticed last night watching Despicable Me 2 there is a random blob being projected. It's hard to notice but when is bright closeups you notice it the most. I tried another disk just to make sure and sure enough it was still projecting.. Is this a dead pixel or a dust blob? When I get home from work tonight I can try to get a picture of it.


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> I've seen many people post about the hd fury linker, but up until now I didn't think much about it. I saw a post saying that there is no 4k HDR gaming without one. I'm waiting on the Xbox One X, but curious about that statement.
> 
> What exactly does it do? Do people with them recommend them to get the most out of the projector?
> 
> Main reason I ask, is to find out if it will fix the inconvenience I have that when the directv changes channels and it goes from different resolutions the projector goes black changing. If this outputs the highest all the time will the projector not have to change e anytime I switch channels?


The linker alters the signal going to the projector to a signal the projector can accept. If you use a linker with an Xbox One S currently, you can get HDR because the Linker can alter the signal. The Xbox One S can detect that the projector alone is not capable of 4K/60 HDR, so it just does not output it. I believe if you use a linker, you will be able to get HDR in 1080P then upscale to 4K if needed. The problem with leaving the Linker in the Xbox all the time, if you are using it for UHD Blu Rays, those output signals are 4K/24 HDR, so there may possibly be some issues if you are converting that. 

Also, the projector will go black quickly when it switches from SDR to HDR. That is normal. 

As far as the Xbox One X, nobody knows the video signal output settings. You will not get 4K/60 HDR out of it, that is for sure. My guess, like I have mentioned, the best you will get is 1080P HDR. So pick your poison. 4K/SDR or 1080P/HDR. I can tell you this, IMO 1080P/HDR with PS4 Pro currently looks much better then 4K/SDR. Its unfortunate we cannot get 4K/60 HDR, we kind of got the "bait and switch" deal with this projector, which is a whole another conversation in itself. 



Kevin Shipley said:


> Are these limitations of the Xbox and Epson combo? If I used a dedicated UHD Blu Ray player could could i get 4k/60 HDR? Or if I grabbed a new Roku or Apple TV 4k, could that provide Netflix at 4k with HDR? Or is this projector just not built to handle those combos?


It is a limitation of the Epson itself. To get 4K/60 HDR it needs to accept a 18gbps signal. The max signal the Epson will take is 10gbps. There is a good chart right in the very first post of this thread that shows what signals it takes and does not take. 

I do not have an Apple TV, but from what I have read on here, guys are getting 4K/HDR, but its not true 4K/HDR as the Apple TV is upscaling 1080P to 4K. 



pheek1g said:


> So I finally received my 5040ub. Loving it so far, especially playing video games. However, I've noticed when I put the blu-ray version of movies instead of the UHD disk.. it seems to be more clear like actual 4k and better colors.. Am I doing something wrong?
> 
> I also noticed last night watching Despicable Me 2 there is a random blob being projected. It's hard to notice but when is bright closeups you notice it the most. I tried another disk just to make sure and sure enough it was still projecting.. Is this a dead pixel or a dust blob? When I get home from work tonight I can try to get a picture of it.


What device are you using to play your Blu Rays and UHD discs? UHD should look better for sure, you either did not calibrate the image properly for UHD or you are not getting HDR. You need to check the projector info screen for the signal. Also out of the box, UHD/HDR may look way darker and colors will be wrong. I would suggest using Oledurts or Harpervision settings posted in this thread.


----------



## pheek1g

Juiced46 said:


> What device are you using to play your Blu Rays and UHD discs? UHD should look better for sure, you either did not calibrate the image properly for UHD or you are not getting HDR. You need to check the projector info screen for the signal. Also out of the box, UHD/HDR may look way darker and colors will be wrong. I would suggest using Oledurts or Harpervision settings posted in this thread.


I am using the UBD-K8500 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray Player. I am also using Harpervision settings, it just seems that the 4k disk is blurry at times and not as sharp as the blu-ray disk. I will try again tonight, do you all keep the sharpness level default?


----------



## Juiced46

pheek1g said:


> I am using the UBD-K8500 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray Player. I am also using Harpervision settings, it just seems that the 4k disk is blurry at times and not as sharp as the blu-ray disk. I will try again tonight, do you all keep the sharpness level default?


Make sure the player is outputting the proper signal and check your projector info screen. 

I alter sharpness to my liking. It should not look blurry.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> The linker alters the signal going to the projector to a signal the projector can accept. If you use a linker with an Xbox One S currently, you can get HDR because the Linker can alter the signal. The Xbox One S can detect that the projector alone is not capable of 4K/60 HDR, so it just does not output it. I believe if you use a linker, you will be able to get HDR in 1080P then upscale to 4K if needed. The problem with leaving the Linker in the Xbox all the time, if you are using it for UHD Blu Rays, those output signals are 4K/24 HDR, so there may possibly be some issues if you are converting that.
> 
> Also, the projector will go black quickly when it switches from SDR to HDR. That is normal.
> 
> As far as the Xbox One X, nobody knows the video signal output settings. You will not get 4K/60 HDR out of it, that is for sure. My guess, like I have mentioned, the best you will get is 1080P HDR. So pick your poison. 4K/SDR or 1080P/HDR. I can tell you this, IMO 1080P/HDR with PS4 Pro currently looks much better then 4K/SDR. Its unfortunate we cannot get 4K/60 HDR, we kind of got the "bait and switch" deal with this projector, which is a whole another conversation in itself.
> 
> It is a limitation of the Epson itself. To get 4K/60 HDR it needs to accept a 18gbps signal. The max signal the Epson will take is 10gbps. There is a good chart right in the very first post of this thread that shows what signals it takes and does not take.


I'm not too worried for the time being about getting 4k HDR 60FPS as there are only about 2 to 3 games that will be "enhanced" to that max setting. I think Forza 7 and Minecraft. All the others are 4k 60 fps no hdr or 4k hdr 30fps. 

I would really like to know a setting or a device that would keep the signal the same across the board for directv so it doesn't change from 720p to 1080i depending on what broadcast I'm watching and can keep from dropping out black all the time .


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm not too worried for the time being about getting 4k HDR 60FPS as there are only about 2 to 3 games that will be "enhanced" to that max setting. I think Forza 7 and Minecraft. All the others are 4k 60 fps no hdr or 4k hdr 30fps.
> 
> I would really like to know a setting or a device that would keep the signal the same across the board for directv so it doesn't change from 720p to 1080i depending on what broadcast I'm watching and can keep from dropping out black all the time .


There are way more then 2-3 games that support HDR, even for the Xbox One S currently plus all the games that are getting enhanced when the X comes out. Just counted 42 HDR titles from this list alone..... https://www.windowscentral.com/all-xbox-one-x-enhanced-games

Set your DirectTV to 720P output and forget it. You do not want to watch TV in 1080i anyway and it will not switch. Does Direct TV not have a 1080P option? I also thought they now have 4K support as well? The linker will just add another hassle in the mix if you go that route and if you are considering to use that just so it does not go black when going from 720P to 1080i, that is probably not the best investment. Change the boxes output setting and it will not switch.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> There are way more then 2-3 games that support HDR, even for the Xbox One S currently plus all the games that are getting enhanced when the X comes out. Just counted 42 HDR titles from this list alone..... https://www.windowscentral.com/all-xbox-one-x-enhanced-games
> 
> Set your DirectTV to 720P output and forget it. You do not want to watch TV in 1080i anyway and it will not switch. Does Direct TV not have a 1080P option? I also thought they now have 4K support as well? The linker will just add another hassle in the mix if you go that route and if you are considering to use that just so it does not go black when going from 720P to 1080i, that is probably not the best investment. Change the boxes output setting and it will not switch.



Got it thx! I meant HDR 4k 60fps. There aren't many that do that. Plenty do HDR 30fps just not the max!


----------



## Uppsalaing

pheek1g said:


> ...
> 
> I also noticed last night watching Despicable Me 2 there is a random blob being projected. It's hard to notice but when is bright closeups you notice it the most. I tried another disk just to make sure and sure enough it was still projecting.. Is this a dead pixel or a dust blob? When I get home from work tonight I can try to get a picture of it.


It might be the infamous dust blob problem. I'm still waiting to receive mine, but I'm interesting to hear what people think of this issue.


----------



## Shane M

ATV4K needs to be set to 24 bit to get HDR to the 5040. I use Plex, and right now it appears the Plex app for ATV does not support 4K HDR at all. In the meantime, what apps DO support it? TV/Movies (iTunes) I'm sure - Netflix?


----------



## Shane M

Juiced46 said:


> This is what you will get out of the Xbox One S if you are using that as all your sources.
> 
> Gaming- 4K/60 SDR, You cannot get HDR gaming, unless you use a linker
> UHD Blu Ray Disc- 4K/24 HDR
> Amazon Prime- 4K/24 HDR
> Netflix- Either 4K/SDR or 1080P/HDR, you will not get 4K and HDR
> 
> If you want HDR gaming with the Xbox One S, it is not going to happen. Unless you buy a linker. *As far as the Xbox One X, you will definetely not get 4K/HDR gaming.* You may be able to get 1080P/HDR like PS4 Pro, but nobody knows the specifics of the Xbox One X video outputs yet. We will have to wait another month to find out.
> 
> With that being said. I upgraded from a 2 year old Epson 5025 to the 5040 and the difference was huge for me, even with non 4K SDR content.
> 
> If you wait, its going to take a while for the price to come down. It will not be a year unless you want to spend $5k


Bolded above, what makes you so sure if we don't know the specifics of the XboneX yet?


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> Got it thx! I meant HDR 4k 60fps. There aren't many that do that. Plenty do HDR 30fps just not the max!


I see where the confusion is. However, I think you are confusing some of it a bit. 

For you to get proper HDR when gaming the signal will have to be 4K/60hz. So that means ALL of those HDR games, even if they are "30 FPS" will not be HDR with this projector, because the projector cannot handle the signal. The Xbox One S outputs HDR games @4K/60 HDR and this projector cannot take it. How the X will output it? My guess is the same, but not sure if they will allow other options like the PS4 Pro. If its like the PS4 Pro, best you will be able to get with HDR gaming will be 1080P/60 HDR.

Basically what I am saying is. HDR gaming out of the Xbox is outputting 4K/60hz regardless if the game is 30 or 60FPS. FPS is not the same as Hz.


----------



## Juiced46

Shane M said:


> Bolded above, what makes you so sure if we don't know the specifics of the XboneX yet?


Because HDR gaming is 4K/60 HDR which the projector cannot and will never be able to accept that signal. The only thing that may change with the Xbox One X if it will allow you to FORCE 1080P/HDR like PS4 Pro allows currently but the One S doesnt.


----------



## Shane M

Juiced46 said:


> Because HDR gaming is 4K/60 HDR which the projector cannot and will never be able to accept that signal. The only thing that may change with the Xbox One X if it will allow you to FORCE 1080P/HDR like PS4 Pro allows currently but the One S doesnt.


So the only way to get 4K HDR from XboneS and probably X is a Linker to change the 4K/60 to 4K/24?


----------



## SolRebel

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, you are correct. You send full HDR BT2020 to the display device and then, if the display is HDR capable like the 5040, you go in manually and set it to SDR instead.
> 
> The link is below my signature. I think you have to be viewing on a PC web browser to see it all the time though. Here it is:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017


Hey Dave, Thanks for the reply! I tried the HarperVision settings and unfortunately they did not fix the issue. Somehow the HDR signal coming from the Apple TV is causing banding and i think it will require an update to Apple TV 4K to fix. I'm just surprised no one else is reporting the issue.


----------



## Juiced46

Shane M said:


> So the only way to get 4K HDR from XboneS and probably X is a Linker to change the 4K/60 to 4K/24?


You are not going to want to game at 24hz. You would take the linker so the Xbox thinks the Projector can handle 4K/60 and convert to I think the max you will be able to get is going to be 1080P/60hz HDR. You can probably configure to the Linker so output 4K/30hz or 4K/50hz but in 8 bit since the PJ can take that signal, I am not sure how that is going to act while gaming though, probably not a good idea. You are going to want that 60hz, that is the key, so 1080P/60 HDR is going to be your best bet. So yes, to get HDR on the One S-Linker is needed. One X, is still unknown. But like I said, for sure you will not be getting 4K/60 HDR at all using this projector. 

There is a user on here using a Linker on his Xbox One S and I believe that is how he is doing it. I think he runs it at 1080p/60 

On the One X, since we do not know what the output settings are going to be, I'd assume the same. But hopefully they do the same as PS4 so we can force 1080P/60 HDR and not have to use a linker at all.


----------



## Shane M

Juiced46 said:


> You are not going to want to game at 24hz. You would take the linker so the Xbox thinks the Projector can handle 4K/60 and convert to I think the max you will be able to get is going to be 1080P/60hz HDR. You can probably configure to the Linker so output 4K/30hz or 4K/50hz but in 8 bit since the PJ can take that signal, I am not sure how that is going to act while gaming though, probably not a good idea. You are going to want that 60hz, that is the key, so 1080P/60 HDR is going to be your best bet. So yes, to get HDR on the One S-Linker is needed. One X, is still unknown. But like I said, for sure you will not be getting 4K/60 HDR at all using this projector.
> 
> There is a user on here using a Linker on his Xbox One S and I believe that is how he is doing it. I think he runs it at 1080p/60
> 
> On the One X, since we do not know what the output settings are going to be, I'd assume the same. But hopefully they do the same as PS4 so we can force 1080P/60 HDR and not have to use a linker at all.


That makes sense. I should have mentioned that 24 is obviously not ideal for gaming, but just clarifying what was technically needed to get to 4K HDR with the Xbox. I agree that 1080P/60 + HDR is the best way to go. Would the 5040 handle 4K/60 SDR?


----------



## Juiced46

Shane M said:


> That makes sense. I should have mentioned that 24 is obviously not ideal for gaming, but just clarifying what was technically needed to get to 4K HDR with the Xbox. I agree that 1080P/60 + HDR is the best way to go. Would the 5040 handle 4K/60 SDR?


Yes. So right now. If you hook an Xbox One S, set it to 4K output to the Epson 5040 and play any game. You get 4K/60hz SDR.

Like I have said before. I have tested a few games with the PS4 Pro on my 5040. All of them look better at 1080P/60 HDR, vs 4K/60 SDR. You can upscale the 1080P/HDR to 4K, but it does not really make a difference so I personally just keep it at the Native signal with no upscaling.


----------



## Shane M

Juiced46 said:


> Yes. So right now. If you hook an Xbox One S, set it to 4K output to the Epson 5040 and play any game. You get 4K/60hz SDR.
> 
> Like I have said before. I have tested a few games with the PS4 Pro on my 5040. All of them look better at 1080P/60 HDR, vs 4K/60 SDR. You can upscale the 1080P/HDR to 4K, but it does not really make a difference so I personally just keep it at the Native signal with no upscaling.


Copy. And for movies (UHD BR) with XboneS 4K/24/HDR works fine?


----------



## Juiced46

Shane M said:


> Copy. And for movies (UHD BR) with XboneS 4K/24/HDR works fine?


Yes.


----------



## sddp

panman40 said:


> From what I hear that's a fairly dark movie, put on something like The Shallows, that's pretty bright.


All of the Ice Age blu rays are extremely bight. Which makes it awesome if you have the 3D discs


----------



## Dave Harper

SolRebel said:


> Hey Dave, Thanks for the reply! I tried the HarperVision settings and unfortunately they did not fix the issue. Somehow the HDR signal coming from the Apple TV is causing banding and i think it will require an update to Apple TV 4K to fix. I'm just surprised no one else is reporting the issue.



I do think I've read from others here that the new AppleTV has banding when using its HDR upconverting mode from SDR.



Shane M said:


> So the only way to get 4K HDR from XboneS and probably X is a Linker to change the 4K/60 to 4K/24?



I recall being able to get 4K60p HDR with a Linker by forcing the 8 bit output setting that's under the scaling tab I think. I remember this because I was surprised it was actually able to maintain HDR when being converted to 8 bit from 10 bit. 

Maybe give that a shot. I'm curious if my memory is correct. It may induce banding though, if the Linker's dithering isn't great. 



Juiced46 said:


> .......Set your DirectTV to 720P output and forget it. You do not want to watch TV in 1080i anyway ........



And why is that? 1080i has the same spatial resolution as 1080p. It's the same number of total pixels and if the deinterlacing is up to today's standards then it's indistinguishable from 1080p. By setting and downconverting to 720p you're losing tons of resolution. 

I reported a while ago on the tivo forum that it was determined that Comcast started down converting all their 1080i channels to 720p to save bandwidth to add extra channels. Many, many customers came on reporting the very bad image quality from Comcast. It's one of the longest threads on there!

I would never sacrifice true resolution, especially on a large projection system, just to save myself a few seconds of sync time!


----------



## SolRebel

Dave Harper said:


> I do think I've read from others here that the new AppleTV has banding when using its HDR upconverting mode from SDR.
> 
> Curious what you mean by HDR up-converting mode from SDR? I didn't think I was upconverting. Just Setting ATV4K to 4K HDR 24hz and playing a 4k HDR movie from iTunes and it is banding mania. My Epson settings say 12bit, BT2020, HDR etc which is right I think.
> 
> If anyone else who has an ATV4K can test this that would be amazing. Opening of Kingsman is a great example. Right when the title appears and says "Kingsman" as there is a fly-over of snowy mountains, TONS of banding in the sky. Revenant and new Spiderman also have good test cases.


----------



## Dave Harper

I believe when you set the new 4K ATV to output HDR it sends native HDR unaltered and it upconverts any SDR you're playing to pseudo HDR.


----------



## Lithium

pheek1g said:


> I am using the UBD-K8500 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray Player. I am also using Harpervision settings, it just seems that the 4k disk is blurry at times and not as sharp as the blu-ray disk. I will try again tonight, do you all keep the sharpness level default?


On the K8500 you will need to following settings to get a proper HDR signal sent to the Epson:

Movie Frame (24Fs): Auto
DVD 24Fs Conversion: Auto
HDMI Deep Color: Auto (this is the one that activates the 12bit the Epson requires)


----------



## Uppsalaing

Dave Harper said:


> I believe when you set the new 4K ATV to output HDR it sends native HDR unaltered and it upconverts any SDR you're playing to pseudo HDR.


This is what I've read on the UK forums as well. It ends up with wrong colours.

I'm dissapointed that they choose to disgard colour fidelity by upconverting SDR this way. To my understanding, there is no option to automatically switch between SDR and HDR modes depending on the content. You have to do it manually.

Maybe this will change in a firmware update of the apple tv. i won't hold my breath.


----------



## Juiced46

Dave Harper said:


> I do think I've read from others here that the new AppleTV has banding when using its HDR upconverting mode from SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recall being able to get 4K60p HDR with a Linker by forcing the 8 bit output setting that's under the scaling tab I think. I remember this because I was surprised it was actually able to maintain HDR when being converted to 8 bit from 10 bit.
> 
> Maybe give that a shot. I'm curious if my memory is correct. It may induce banding though, if the Linker's dithering isn't great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And why is that? 1080i has the same spatial resolution as 1080p. It's the same number of total pixels and if the deinterlacing is up to today's standards then it's indistinguishable from 1080p. By setting and downconverting to 720p you're losing tons of resolution.
> 
> I reported a while ago on the tivo forum that it was determined that Comcast started down converting all their 1080i channels to 720p to save bandwidth to add extra channels. Many, many customers came on reporting the very bad image quality from Comcast. It's one of the longest threads on there!
> 
> I would never sacrifice true resolution, especially on a large projection system, just to save myself a few seconds of sync time!


From what I have experienced with cable TV when I only had the option for 1080i or 720p, 720p looked better and performed better. Fast motion sports were much better then with 1080i. With 720p you are getting 720 horizontal lines of resolution where 1080i you are getting 540 lines of resolution. 

With that being said, I am not familiar with the Direct TV box. But is 720p or 1080i the only video options? Is there a 1080p option? With my Xfinity X1 I can select 1080p (I know broadcasts are not 1080p) but this will prevent the projector switching going black briefly. I am assuming, the OP with the issue, is having an issue with changing channels and some channels are 720p and some are 1080i and he is using some sort of auto video setting? So if you say 720p is not the way yo go. Why not manually select 1080i or 1080p to prevent the issue he is complaining about.


----------



## roland6465

Re: Banding

I've been watching Ozark on Netflix (4K SDR) and watched the opening heist of The Dark Knight from my iTunes library (HD SDR) on my 6040 from an ATV 4K set to 4K HDR 24, and have seen no banding at all.

I'm using the Oledurt Bright Cinema settings with the contrast and brightness bumped to 51, and the lamp on eco.


----------



## Dave Harper

Juiced46 said:


> From what I have experienced with cable TV when I only had the option for 1080i or 720p, 720p looked better and performed better. Fast motion sports were much better then with 1080i. With 720p you are getting 720 horizontal lines of resolution where 1080i you are getting 540 lines of resolution.
> 
> With that being said, I am not familiar with the Direct TV box. But is 720p or 1080i the only video options? Is there a 1080p option? With my Xfinity X1 I can select 1080p (I know broadcasts are not 1080p) but this will prevent the projector switching going black briefly. I am assuming, the OP with the issue, is having an issue with changing channels and some channels are 720p and some are 1080i and he is using some sort of auto video setting? So if you say 720p is not the way yo go. Why not manually select 1080i or 1080p to prevent the issue he is complaining about.


Well I think you answered your own question. Your cable provider sounds like it's Comcast/Xfinity, and if that is the case, then it is as I said and you aren't getting 1080i signals natively (except maybe a couple channels like your local networks). When you set your X1 box to 720p, you're outputting at the format that the channels are being broadcast in, 720p, because Comcast is down-converting them all before they send them to you. When you choose 1080i, then any channel that is native 1080i will be down-converted at Comcast to 720p, then sent to you, where your cable box then upconverts it back to pseudo 1080i (if that's what you set your box to output), losing tons of the native resolution. Here is the thread on TCF: https://www.tivocommunity.com/commu...onverts-native-1080i-channels-to-720p.542203/ 

1080i is NOT 540 lines of resolution. It is 1080 discrete lines, they are just being interlaced. Here is a good article: https://www.cnet.com/how-to/1080i-and-1080p-are-the-same-resolution/ 

DirecTV boxes can output 480p (older ones), 720p, 1080i, 1080p & 4K 2160p (C61K 4K Genie Mini)


----------



## SolRebel

Uppsalaing said:


> This is what I've read on the UK forums as well. It ends up with wrong colours.
> 
> I'm dissapointed that they choose to disgard colour fidelity by upconverting SDR this way. To my understanding, there is no option to automatically switch between SDR and HDR modes depending on the content. You have to do it manually.
> 
> Maybe this will change in a firmware update of the apple tv. i won't hold my breath.


Appreciate the replies here for sure, but I don't think this is related to the problem i am seeing. I'm talking about banding appearing when watching an HDR source, not an SDR source with the ATV4K set to HDR. 

The banding actually disappears when I switch the ATV4K to SDR.


----------



## SolRebel

Uppsalaing said:


> This is what I've read on the UK forums as well. It ends up with wrong colours.
> 
> I'm dissapointed that they choose to disgard colour fidelity by upconverting SDR this way. To my understanding, there is no option to automatically switch between SDR and HDR modes depending on the content. You have to do it manually.
> 
> Maybe this will change in a firmware update of the apple tv. i won't hold my breath.





roland6465 said:


> Re: Banding
> 
> I've been watching Ozark on Netflix (4K SDR) and watched the opening heist of The Dark Knight from my iTunes library (HD SDR) on my 6040 from an ATV 4K set to 4K HDR 24, and have seen no banding at all.
> 
> I'm using the Oledurt Bright Cinema settings with the contrast and brightness bumped to 51, and the lamp on eco.


I have similar results. No banding when watching SDR content with the ATV4K set to SDR. Have you tried setting the ATV4K to 4k HDR 24hz and watched a 4k HDR movie? Check the Sunset/Big Sky scenes. That is when it is most noticeable to me.


----------



## bukiwhitey

SolRebel said:


> I have similar results. No banding when watching SDR content with the ATV4K set to SDR. Have you tried setting the ATV4K to 4k HDR 24hz and watched a 4k HDR movie? Check the Sunset/Big Sky scenes. That is when it is most noticeable to me.


I have the ATV 4k set to 4KHDR 24HZ. I just watched the new Spiderman Homecoming movie with the kid's and did not have any banding.


----------



## SolRebel

bukiwhitey said:


> I have the ATV 4k set to 4KHDR 24HZ. I just watched the new Spiderman Homecoming movie with the kid's and did not have any banding.


Hey thanks very much for the reply! Assume you are watching a digital iTunes copy? If it is not too much hassle, can you please check the scene just after the 18min mark? There is a sunset and this is what I get. Sorry it is upside down, but you get the idea. 

Also these the setting you are seeing in the Epson?

Thanks again!


----------



## SALadder22FF

Dave Harper said:


> Well I think you answered your own question. Your cable provider sounds like it's Comcast/Xfinity, and if that is the case, then it is as I said and you aren't getting 1080i signals natively (except maybe a couple channels like your local networks). When you set your X1 box to 720p, you're outputting at the format that the channels are being broadcast in, 720p, because Comcast is down-converting them all before they send them to you. When you choose 1080i, then any channel that is native 1080i will be down-converted at Comcast to 720p, then sent to you, where your cable box then upconverts it back to pseudo 1080i (if that's what you set your box to output), losing tons of the native resolution. Here is the thread on TCF: https://www.tivocommunity.com/commu...onverts-native-1080i-channels-to-720p.542203/
> 
> 1080i is NOT 540 lines of resolution. It is 1080 discrete lines, they are just being interlaced. Here is a good article: https://www.cnet.com/how-to/1080i-and-1080p-are-the-same-resolution/
> 
> DirecTV boxes can output 480p (older ones), 720p, 1080i, 1080p & 4K 2160p (C61K 4K Genie Mini)


Yes, that is my problem. However I tried both the 1080i and 720p options only and it still momentarily blacked out. I'm sure there is a user error somewhere just haven't figured it out yet. The only time I could get it so no drop out was when I had my directv box running through my xbox one. I assume it was because the Xbox one was taking the signal and making it uniform that it did not drop because it wasn't changing resolutions. 

When I upgraded to 4k directv I couldn't do this because my Day One edition Xbox One doesn't support 4k. 

I really hope the passthrough hdmi on the One X supports 4k signal so I can once again hook directv through the Xbox, but so far, experts are not holding their breathe for this feature.


----------



## bukiwhitey

SolRebel said:


> Hey thanks very much for the reply! Assume you are watching a digital iTunes copy? If it is not too much hassle, can you please check the scene just after the 18min mark? There is a sunset and this is what I get. Sorry it is upside down, but you get the idea.
> 
> Also these the setting you are seeing in the Epson?
> 
> Thanks again!


Definitely not getting the banding that you are. Here are my settings. I am using a Stewart studiotek 130 screen which is 144x60 or 155" diagonal.


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> Yes, that is my problem. However I tried both the 1080i and 720p options only and it still momentarily blacked out. I'm sure there is a user error somewhere just haven't figured it out yet. The only time I could get it so no drop out was when I had my directv box running through my xbox one. I assume it was because the Xbox one was taking the signal and making it uniform that it did not drop because it wasn't changing resolutions.
> 
> When I upgraded to 4k directv I couldn't do this because my Day One edition Xbox One doesn't support 4k.
> 
> I really hope the passthrough hdmi on the One X supports 4k signal so I can once again hook directv through the Xbox, but so far, experts are not holding their breathe for this feature.


When does this drop out happen? When switching channels, just viewing or when switching sources?


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> When does this drop out happen? When switching channels, just viewing or when switching sources?


Happens switching sources of course but happens every time the channel changes resolution. It's running through a marantz 6011 receiver. Idk if that has something to do with it. When I change it to only one resolution, it dropped out too.


----------



## sduerden

SALadder22FF said:


> Happens switching sources of course but happens every time the channel changes resolution. It's running through a marantz 6011 receiver. Idk if that has something to do with it. When I change it to only one resolution, it dropped out too.




I’m having the same issue with my Directv. I I’ll try setting it to 720p only and see if that helps. I get the blank screen and input not supported for a few seconds. It’s irritating. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> Happens switching sources of course but happens every time the channel changes resolution. It's running through a marantz 6011 receiver. Idk if that has something to do with it. When I change it to only one resolution, it dropped out too.



When I turn on my Xfinity/Comcast box and switch to that source. Initially I will get a signal dropout and sometimes it will drop out every few seconds repeatedly. If I switch sources on the receiver then back to the cable box, it starts working fine. I do not get drop outs when changing channels though. Just on the initial turn on.


----------



## SolRebel

bukiwhitey said:


> Definitely not getting the banding that you are. Here are my settings. I am using a Stewart studiotek 130 screen which is 144x60 or 155" diagonal.


Wow really appreciate you helping me out on this. Gives me hope that maybe there is a solution. I do see a few different settings than mine so going to mess with those.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> When I turn on my Xfinity/Comcast box and switch to that source. Initially I will get a signal dropout and sometimes it will drop out every few seconds repeatedly. If I switch sources on the receiver then back to the cable box, it starts working fine. I do not get drop outs when changing channels though. Just on the initial turn on.


I expect it to drop signal when I switch sources which is does, but between channels I don't think it should drop after I change the channels to be all the same resolution. I've just gotten used to it, but it would be nice to not have that drop.

Might be a setting on the Marantz too I don't know. 

Anyone else with this problem have a solution?


----------



## roland6465

Just following up on my 6040 suddenly turning itself off...

After turning off CEC on all devices, I have watched several hours of Netflix on the ATV4K and Oppo UHD player without incident.


----------



## welldun

Heads-up everyone...Netflix increasing the 4k stream price this month to $13.99 from the $11.99 it now charges. The basic will remain at $7.99 and the standard will go up to $10.99 from the current $9.99


----------



## casspearce

I also experienced some banding at first but I had some settings wrong.


----------



## SolRebel

bukiwhitey said:


> Definitely not getting the banding that you are. Here are my settings. I am using a Stewart studiotek 130 screen which is 144x60 or 155" diagonal.


Ran a quick test with your settings and it seems to have mostly fixed the banding. Woot! If I reeeeeally look for it I can still see a little but it is much improved. 

Where did these setting come from? Never used Digital Cinema, always Bright Cinema because I like a really bright image. Tested this in the day and my room has horrible light control so really no way to tell until tonight, but it seems it is going to be very dark. But the pics you linked make it look plenty bright. 

Again, thanks very much for the help!


----------



## bukiwhitey

SolRebel said:


> Ran a quick test with your settings and it seems to have mostly fixed the banding. Woot! If I reeeeeally look for it I can still see a little but it is much improved.
> 
> Where did these setting come from? Never used Digital Cinema, always Bright Cinema because I like a really bright image. Tested this in the day and my room has horrible light control so really no way to tell until tonight, but it seems it is going to be very dark. But the pics you linked make it look plenty bright.
> 
> Again, thanks very much for the help!


I came up with them myself. I do not have any gear, I just keep messing with things till I get something I like. 

I have a Bright cinema one as well, I will try to post it when I get home tonight.


----------



## anthonybuchanan

welldun said:


> Heads-up everyone...Netflix increasing the 4k stream price this month to $13.99 from the $11.99 it now charges. The basic will remain at $7.99 and the standard will go up to $10.99 from the current $9.99


I'll pay it.
They spend $6-7 billion on content and the content happens to be very good.
Their not like Apple that profits a ton and does'nt spend it except on the small and incremental cost increases for hardware.


----------



## OMXP

Hi all .. I have a 150" digonal scope screen .. when I play a 2.35:1 movie on ATV 4k and using the lens memory feature on espon to zoom the picture to fill the screen. I still can notice the black bars outside the screen dimensions! I used epson blanking feature and it didn't remove the bars! and idea how the to fill the scope screen without getting the bards on top and bottom? Is this because of the black levels of epson not that good?

Thanks


----------



## inspector

Wow...am I one of those only ones that actually uses PHYSICAL DISCS (over 4K discs of BD/SD) instead of all this other stuff.














I just watched 8K TV projection in 4K and it was awesome through YOUTUBE.


----------



## edoggrc51

inspector said:


> Wow...am I one of those only ones that actually uses PHYSICAL DISCS (over 4K discs of BD/SD) instead of all this other stuff..



Same here. Must be a SoCal thing.


----------



## bukiwhitey

OMXP said:


> Hi all .. I have a 150" digonal scope screen .. when I play a 2.35:1 movie on ATV 4k and using the lens memory feature on espon to zoom the picture to fill the screen. I still can notice the black bars outside the screen dimensions! I used epson blanking feature and it didn't remove the bars! and idea how the to fill the scope screen without getting the bards on top and bottom? Is this because of the black levels of epson not that good?
> 
> Thanks


You are just zooming the image, so yes light is still revealing the black bars.


----------



## Hoosier72

*5040ub whining 4k or 4k enhancement : New Unit on the way.*



rjguk said:


> Well, with the iris noise and the whine with 4K enhancement of 60Hz material I'm kind of half-hoping that mine fails too, since then I wouldn't have the hassle of explaining why I wasn't happy with the various noises. I know that in the US Epson have an excellent reputation for sorting things out, but I don't know whether the same applies in the UK. I'm planning to talk to them on Monday.
> 
> I did some more analysis of the whine today. There are very small elements of it measurable on 24Hz BD material with 4Ke on, and likewise I can see a slight difference in the spectrogram of 50Hz material. However, the annoying noise is only really present on 60Hz material, where the actual big peak is 419.6Hz (7x the input).


 Well, Espon is shipping a replacement unit out. I developed a very noticeable whine when 4ke set to on and or playing a 4k signal. They said the whine was normal. I said if it was normal why would I be calling you? I updated the firmware prior to calling. I was hoping that would solve the issue. Lamp hours are at 1300ish. Not sure if that would have anything to do with the issue or not. The replacement unit will have a new bulb per the rep. I'll post as soon as I get the replacement up and running.


----------



## OMXP

bukiwhitey said:


> You are just zooming the image, so yes light is still revealing the black bars.




I saw some videos on YouTube for JVC .. the black bars were not visible when using lens memory for scope screen!! So there is no fix for this issue?! Annoying to see the black bars even that they are not that much bright on wall. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OMXP

roland6465 said:


> The movie played without a hitch last night. Hope that's the case for you as well. CEC is under "remotes and devices" in the ATV settings.




Problem solved by disabling cec on atv.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## anthonybuchanan

anthonybuchanan said:


> I'll pay it.
> They spend $6-7 billion on content and the content happens to be very good.
> Their not like Apple that profits a ton and does'nt spend it except on the small and incremental cost increases for hardware.





inspector said:


> Wow...am I one of those only ones that actually uses PHYSICAL DISCS (over 4K discs of BD/SD) instead of all this other stuff..



If you don't have Netflix streaming then you are missing lots of super great 4K shows. One of my favorites is Black Mirror. Netflix streaming is the best 4K option availble.

I have a netflix disc account that I love. I don't have a 4K projector yet and so all the dics are 1080p.
I get 4K from Netflix streaming on a 65" in my bedroom. I quality seems awesome. My projector is my awesome 7 1/2 year old LG CF181D. I hate the blacks on it.

I just purchased the 4K TV and am here because I am considering returning the 65", saving $350 by buying a 55", and applying the money to the 5040UB.

This way I can still have 4K in my bedroom but also this pseudo 4K in my theater room.

My goal is to use the 5040UB yo try out the PowerDVD feature where 2D movies look like pseudo 3D.
















I just watched 8K TV projection in 4K and it was awesome through YOUTUBE.[/QUOTE]


----------



## bukiwhitey

OMXP said:


> I saw some videos on YouTube for JVC .. the black bars were not visible when using lens memory for scope screen!! So there is no fix for this issue?! Annoying to see the black bars even that they are not that much bright on wall.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The best set up would be to get the 6040ub and an anamorphic lens. You would be able to use the full resolution and brightness of the projector without the bars.

I have a scope screen as well, and bought the 5040 to try out the motorized lens instead of using my anamorphic lens. I am trying to adjust to the look, however I am leaning towards sending it back and getting the 6040.


----------



## MaxTemp

OMXP said:


> I saw some videos on YouTube for JVC .. the black bars were not visible when using lens memory for scope screen!! So there is no fix for this issue?! Annoying to see the black bars even that they are not that much bright on wall.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You shouldn't see the bars if you have a dark/black front wall.
What colour is the wall?


----------



## OMXP

MaxTemp said:


> You shouldn't see the bars if you have a dark/black front wall.
> What colour is the wall?


Light gray.


----------



## ScottAvery

bukiwhitey said:


> The best set up would be to get the 6040ub and an anamorphic lens. You would be able to use the full resolution and brightness of the projector without the bars.
> 
> I have a scope screen as well, and bought the 5040 to try out the motorized lens instead of using my anamorphic lens. I am trying to adjust to the look, however I am leaning towards sending it back and getting the 6040.


What specifically does the 6040 offer over the 5040 for an A-lens? The spec sheets do not list any different features between the two.


----------



## bukiwhitey

ScottAvery said:


> What specifically does the 6040 offer over the 5040 for an A-lens? The spec sheets do not list any different features between the two.


The Anamorphic Wide setting.


----------



## jdbarnes63

OMXP said:


> Problem solved by disabling cec on atv.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


CEC seems to be the culprit in the projector turning itself off. The issue started when I hooked up the Shield TV and CEC is on with factory settings.


----------



## Kevin Shipley

Shane M said:


> Copy. And for movies (UHD BR) with XboneS 4K/24/HDR works fine?





Juiced46 said:


> Yes.


How do you get BT2020 from the XboneS? According to my 5040ub, I am getting 4k, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT709 SDR when playing UHD BR.

Screenshots of my config below. Is there a setting on the Epson I am missing?


----------



## WildThing

OMXP said:


> Light gray.


Tha'ts the problem. My wall is dark grey (matte paint). I barely see them. If I try I see them but they are not disturbing at all.

Before the Epson I had the same setup with a Panasonic PT-AE4000U with black nearly as good as the Epson and I didn't have that problem either.

I have velvet drapery on each side of my screen to use as a mask when I pull down my 106" 16:9 electric screen over my 115" 2.35:1. I love that setup!


----------



## Juiced46

Kevin Shipley said:


> How do you get BT2020 from the XboneS? According to my 5040ub, I am getting 4k, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT709 SDR when playing UHD BR.
> 
> Screenshots of my config below. Is there a setting on the Epson I am missing?



What AVR are you running and what kind of HDMI cables? On the Xbox screen, you should be seeing 3 green check marks, you have only just 2, that is why it is not working. Your settings on the Xbox are correct assuming you have the latest update installed. You either have an issue with your AVRs settings, your AVR is not compatible with HDCP 2.2, or your HDMI cables. Do you have your HDMI cable going to the HDCP 2.2 port on the projector?

You Xbox screen should look like the picture below. It needs to say "Supports HDR"


----------



## Kevin Shipley

Juiced46 said:


> What AVR are you running and what kind of HDMI cables? On the Xbox screen, you should be seeing 3 green check marks, you have only just 2, that is why it is not working. Your settings on the Xbox are correct assuming you have the latest update installed. You either have an issue with your AVRs settings, your AVR is not compatible with HDCP 2.2, or your HDMI cables. Do you have your HDMI cable going to the HDCP 2.2 port on the projector?
> 
> You Xbox screen should look like the picture below. It needs to say "Supports HDR"


Onkyo TX-NR646. I am fairly certain I had all checkboxes with this setup when I had my Visio 4k HDR connected. Only change is the swapping the TV for the projector.


----------



## Kevin Shipley

Kevin Shipley said:


> Onkyo TX-NR646. I am fairly certain I had all checkboxes with this setup when I had my Visio 4k HDR connected. Only change is the swapping the TV for the projector.


All cables are "high speed with ethernet"


----------



## Juiced46

Kevin Shipley said:


> Onkyo TX-NR646. I am fairly certain I had all checkboxes with this setup when I had my Visio 4k HDR connected. Only change is the swapping the TV for the projector.


I looked up your receiver and it is indeed HDCP 2.2 compliant. So this is what you need to check

-On the Epson, you MUST be connected to HDMI Port 1, this is the HDCP 2.2 port. If not- NO HDR. This is the most important thing.
-Make sure in your Onkyos video settings, you are not using any sort of video conversion/scaler that may be messing with the signal. 
-Make sure your HDMI cables are hooked to the HDCP ports on the Onkyo. (I am not familiar with this AVR so I am not sure if it has dedicated ports)
-Make sure your Xbox is up to date with the latest Firmware. If it is. Do a HARD reset (I have troubles using the instant on feature with other non related 4K/HDR stuff FYI)
-Lastly, what HDMI cable are you running FROM the Xbox to the AVR and what type of HDMI cable from the AVR to the Epson are being used?


----------



## Juiced46

Kevin Shipley said:


> All cables are "high speed with ethernet"


High speed with ethernet does not help me. What brand, type, model, thickness, length are they? If the cable is not certified to pass a 4K/HDR signal, it will not work. Any old high speed HDMI cable wont work.


----------



## rmilyard

I am getting ready to resetup our Home Theater in new house. New screen and other stuff. I have very limited internet access for few days till they get out to install it. Can someone point me to settings to try on the Epson 5040ub. I installed a 2006 Stewart Greyhawk screen 128" Looking to get best image from projector I can. Thanks for help!


----------



## Kevin Shipley

Juiced46 said:


> I looked up your receiver and it is indeed HDCP 2.2 compliant. So this is what you need to check
> 
> -On the Epson, you MUST be connected to HDMI Port 1, this is the HDCP 2.2 port. If not- NO HDR. This is the most important thing.
> -Make sure in your Onkyos video settings, you are not using any sort of video conversion/scaler that may be messing with the signal.
> -Make sure your HDMI cables are hooked to the HDCP ports on the Onkyo. (I am not familiar with this AVR so I am not sure if it has dedicated ports)
> -Make sure your Xbox is up to date with the latest Firmware. If it is. Do a HARD reset (I have troubles using the instant on feature with other non related 4K/HDR stuff FYI)
> -Lastly, what HDMI cable are you running FROM the Xbox to the AVR and what type of HDMI cable from the AVR to the Epson are being used?


I am using the correct HDMI Port on the Epson. 
The port I am using on the back of the Onkyo is HDCP 2.2
I am not doing anything weird with video on the AVR

I tried all my cables directly from the Xbox to the Epson and all of them were able to achieve the checkbox for HDR. As soon as I go back through the Onkyo AVR I cannot get the HDR checkbox. Not sure whats going on.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Nvidia Shield works as intended  Great match with Epson.

I m getting my ref grey screen replaced with slightly bigger ref white with thin bezel + LED. Cannot wait.
Had a chance to compare it to ambient light rejection screen and to my eye in a bat-cave Epson works best with the ref white screen.


----------



## Juiced46

Kevin Shipley said:


> I am using the correct HDMI Port on the Epson.
> The port I am using on the back of the Onkyo is HDCP 2.2
> I am not doing anything weird with video on the AVR
> 
> I tried all my cables directly from the Xbox to the Epson and all of them were able to achieve the checkbox for HDR. As soon as I go back through the Onkyo AVR I cannot get the HDR checkbox. Not sure whats going on.


It is either a setting in your AVR or the cable going from the Xbox to the AVR then.

Can you post a screenshot of your AVR video HDMI settings?


----------



## Kevin Shipley

Juiced46 said:


> It is either a setting in your AVR or the cable going from the Xbox to the AVR then.
> 
> Can you post a screenshot of your AVR video HDMI settings?


I went hunting through the menus on my AVR and there are no video settings to be found. The only thing I can change are labels for the HDMI inputs and if I am outputting to the main HDMI output, the sub HDMI output, or both. I even did a reset on my AVR and had no luck. I have used two cables from the xbox to the Epson that both worked with HDR and I am now using those two cables to go from Xbox to AVR to Epson. I still do not get the checkbox.

Any chance it has to do with the receivers ability to support Dolby Vision vs HDR10? Any chance it could support one but not the other or is that not a thing?

Would Firmware on the projector potential cause this? I received the Epson yesterday but have not done installed new firmware and I think there is a slightly newer version out there. Not sure if this matters since the xbox can negotiate HDR directly with the projector. Does the AVR negotiate HDR or just pass it through without touching it?


----------



## Juiced46

Kevin Shipley said:


> I am using the correct HDMI Port on the Epson.
> The port I am using on the back of the Onkyo is HDCP 2.2
> I am not doing anything weird with video on the AVR
> 
> I tried all my cables directly from the Xbox to the Epson and all of them were able to achieve the checkbox for HDR. As soon as I go back through the Onkyo AVR I cannot get the HDR checkbox. Not sure whats going on.



I just looked through the Onkyo manual. Obivously you stated it, but to confirm. Make sure the Xbox is connected to the HDMI port 1-3 IN on the Onkyo, those are the only HDCP 2.2 ports. Make sure the cable going OUT of the AVR to the Epson is in the HDMI Main/ARC port. Since you confirmed there is no issue with the cables, since it works directly to the Epson, it has to be a setting in the AVR. 

In the AVR Video settings you should see HDMI CEC and also HDMI Through, are they set to On or Off? Try setting both to OFF if they arent already. Is there any setting for HDMI output that lets you select a resolution? If so, set it to Auto. Set the HDMI Output to MAIN, not Main and Sub. Let me know if any of that works. My Denon AVR when I select it to output to both HDMI ports, it has issues transmitting 4K signals, not sure why. I set it to output on the Main HDMI. One of these settings has to be your issue. 

Also on the Epson, I believe it is called HDMI "link" shut that off for now. It may be an "HDMI handshake" issue from the AVR. 

I am on an older Epson firmware and mine is working fine. I do not think its anything on the Epson, I think its within the AVR, I am about 99.9% sure

Your AVR supports BT2020/HDR it should be no problem. The Epson will not do HDR10 anyhow.


----------



## Kevin Shipley

Juiced46 said:


> I just looked through the Onkyo manual. Obivously you stated it, but to confirm. Make sure the Xbox is connected to the HDMI port 1-3 IN on the Onkyo, those are the only HDCP 2.2 ports. Make sure the cable going OUT of the AVR to the Epson is in the HDMI Main/ARC port. Since you confirmed there is no issue with the cables, since it works directly to the Epson, it has to be a setting in the AVR.
> 
> In the AVR Video settings you should see HDMI CEC and also HDMI Through, are they set to On or Off? Try setting both to OFF if they arent already. Is there any setting for HDMI output that lets you select a resolution? If so, set it to Auto. Set the HDMI Output to MAIN, not Main and Sub. Let me know if any of that works. My Denon AVR when I select it to output to both HDMI ports, it has issues transmitting 4K signals, not sure why. I set it to output on the Main HDMI. One of these settings has to be your issue.
> 
> Also on the Epson, I believe it is called HDMI "link" shut that off for now. It may be an "HDMI handshake" issue from the AVR.
> 
> I am on an older Epson firmware and mine is working fine. I do not think its anything on the Epson, I think its within the AVR, I am about 99.9% sure
> 
> Your AVR supports BT2020/HDR it should be no problem. The Epson will not do HDR10 anyhow.


Just tried all of your recommendations:
- confirmed I am using port 1 (HDCP2.2) on the AVR
- confirmed I am using the MAIN HDMI Output
- confirmed that output is only going to MAIN and not both
- disabled CEC and Through on the AVR
- disabled Link on the Epson

Power cycled all hardware and no change :-/

I am about to move my AVR up to my Visio 4K HDR and see if it completes the handshake successfully there.


----------



## terminal33

Anyone have the Chromecast Ultra? Right now I use the Xbox One for Hulu and Philips 7501 for 4K Netflix. I'm wondering how the Chromecast Ultra would benefit me, if any. Thanks.


----------



## Dave Harper

rmilyard said:


> I am getting ready to resetup our Home Theater in new house. New screen and other stuff. I have very limited internet access for few days till they get out to install it. Can someone point me to settings to try on the Epson 5040ub. I installed a 2006 Stewart Greyhawk screen 128" Looking to get best image from projector I can. Thanks for help!



Why that's easy......HarperVision of course! 

See the link below my signature for details.


----------



## Juiced46

Kevin Shipley said:


> Just tried all of your recommendations:
> - confirmed I am using port 1 (HDCP2.2) on the AVR
> - confirmed I am using the MAIN HDMI Output
> - confirmed that output is only going to MAIN and not both
> - disabled CEC and Through on the AVR
> - disabled Link on the Epson
> 
> Power cycled all hardware and no change :-/
> 
> I am about to move my AVR up to my Visio 4K HDR and see if it completes the handshake successfully there.


Hmmm.....I am out of recommendations. Everything I see in your AVR manual shows its capable. 
It says for 4K/24Hz ONLY do 4:2:2 in 12 Bit that is the only thing that is supported. I just booted up my stuff to confirm with a UHD Disc with the Xbox One S and verified it is outputting 4K/24hz HDR BT2020 4:2:2 12 bit. So that AVR should be able to handle it. There has to be an overlooked setting in the AVR.


----------



## Kevin Shipley

Juiced46 said:


> Hmmm.....I am out of recommendations. Everything I see in your AVR manual shows its capable.
> It says for 4K/24Hz ONLY do 4:2:2 in 12 Bit that is the only thing that is supported. I just booted up my stuff to confirm with a UHD Disc with the Xbox One S and verified it is outputting 4K/24hz HDR BT2020 4:2:2 12 bit. So that AVR should be able to handle it. There has to be an overlooked setting in the AVR.


Sigh, I am at a loss. Thank you so much for your help.

I did take my AVR up to my Visio and it was able to negotiate HDR without any problem (photo attached). It's the combination of the AVR and the Epson that seem to be causing the issue. If I use the Xbox, the AVR, and a different display I can get HDR. If I use the Xbox and the Epson, I can get HDR. If I use the Xbox, the AVR, and the Epson, I CANNOT get HDR!! Just to rule out the cables I used the same two cables I used on the working setup with my Vizio. Frustrating...


----------



## peclark

Calling Harper on Harpervision!!

I would appreciate some feedback on my settings. I have had 5040 for 6 months and previously had 5030, have read entire thread. I am not getting a calibration, just trying to get as close I can. 

So I tried everyones settings in the pdf file. I don't know if this is a good method but I paused screen for Passengers movie at 105:11. It is pretty dark scene and I first looked at standard bluray on Natural and everything else default. Then I put in 4k and tried lots of settings to try to match the standard bluray. Below are only settings I found that didn't make scene so dark that I didn't see detail on back wall and the tufting in the headboard of the bed that you can see in standard bluray. The blacks are still pretty good on it. 

So I found out that if I use the exact HarperVision settings in Digital Cinema but just change to Expanded video range that the picture looks the same as my settings below in Bright Cinema. So please explain pros/con of then of using Digital Cinema vs Bright. Digital will give WCG but in Bright Cinema you will get more headroom for brighter HDR effects? Thanks


Bright Cinema
50
50
50
50 (I need to get Masciola to fine tune brightness/contrast)

Power - Medium or High
Iris - High
Gamma - +1
Video Range - Expanded
Dynamic Range - Auto Bright
Super White - Off


----------



## Juiced46

Kevin Shipley said:


> Sigh, I am at a loss. Thank you so much for your help.
> 
> I did take my AVR up to my Visio and it was able to negotiate HDR without any problem (photo attached). It's the combination of the AVR and the Epson that seem to be causing the issue. If I use the Xbox, the AVR, and a different display I can get HDR. If I use the Xbox and the Epson, I can get HDR. If I use the Xbox, the AVR, and the Epson, I CANNOT get HDR!! Just to rule out the cables I used the same two cables I used on the working setup with my Vizio. Frustrating...



That is very strange. I can tell you with 100% certainty that it works on mine. The only other thing that I can think of is the AVR is outputting a signal that the Epson cannot accept but your Vizio can accept. According to the Onkyo chart, the input signal of 4K/24 HDR BT2020 4:2:2 12 bit is the only thing it accepts, so I would assume it would output that to the Epson, and the Epson can take that signal as I just confirmed with a UHD Blu Ray with the Xbox that is what is showing on the Projector screen. The output signal of the Xbox is clearly compatible with the Epson since when you hook it directly to the Epson, it works. The AVR has to be changing something or outputting a different signal. Dig deeper into your settings. There should be a section for HDMI Video Output or something of those sorts that shows the resolution output settings. On my Denon, I can select between 720p, 1080i/p, 4K etc. I just any sort of video conversion off and output to my HDMI Out 1 only. It is my last thought, I am assuming it is set to some sort of auto setting but not sure why it wouldn't work.


----------



## Lesmor

This is getting frustrating
Why are we getting so many posts that are unrelated to these Epson projectors?

Posting pages from AVR menus
Asking help on
Vizio TV settings
Xbox settings
ATV settings
NVIDIA Shield settings

Are these not more relevant to dedicated threads for the relevent pieces of kit
If owners took the time to search the Epson manual they would learn of its limitations
OK rant over


----------



## peclark

peclark said:


> Calling Harper on Harpervision!!
> 
> I would appreciate some feedback on my settings. I have had 5040 for 6 months and previously had 5030, have read entire thread. I am not getting a calibration, just trying to get as close I can.
> 
> So I tried everyones settings in the pdf file. I don't know if this is a good method but I paused screen for Passengers movie at 105:11. It is pretty dark scene and I first looked at standard bluray on Natural and everything else default. Then I put in 4k and tried lots of settings to try to match the standard bluray. Below are only settings I found that didn't make scene so dark that I didn't see detail on back wall and the tufting in the headboard of the bed that you can see in standard bluray. The blacks are still pretty good on it.
> 
> So I found out that if I use the exact HarperVision settings in Digital Cinema but just change to Expanded video range that the picture looks the same as my settings below in Bright Cinema. So please explain pros/con of then of using Digital Cinema vs Bright. Digital will give WCG but in Bright Cinema you will get more headroom for brighter HDR effects? Thanks
> 
> 
> Bright Cinema
> 50
> 50
> 50
> 50 (I need to get Masciola to fine tune brightness/contrast)
> 
> Power - Medium or High
> Iris - High
> Gamma - +1
> Video Range - Expanded
> Dynamic Range - Auto Bright
> Super White - Off


So after reading about Normal and Expanded it looks like Normal is preferable and I should 
play around with Brightness setting.


----------



## Juiced46

Lesmor said:


> This is getting frustrating
> Why are we getting so many posts that are unrelated to these Epson projectors?
> 
> Posting pages from AVR menus
> Asking help on
> Vizio TV settings
> Xbox settings
> ATV settings
> NVIDIA Shield settings
> 
> Are these not more relevant to dedicated threads for the relevent pieces of kit
> If owners took the time to search the Epson manual they would learn of its limitations
> OK rant over


While I understand you may be frustrated, this is the thread to be asking these questions. These issues are indeed related to the Epson, since Epson duped us with their false advertising per say and their claim to the PJ is "HDR compatible" is iffy and vague at best. 

The probability of getting advice with a problem with a source is much greater using this thread vs going to the sources page and asking for help with an Epson. (i.e. AppleTV, Xbox etc)

If you went to an Xbox support page and said "Blu Ray HDR not working with my Xbox to my Epson" Users there are using 574657 different types of display devices. Chances are, no replies. In this thread ALL of us are experiencing similar issues with the most commonly used devices available, be it PS4, Xbox, Roku, Apple TV, Netflix, Firestick etc etc etc. We are all in the same boat and we are all having the same issues looking for help, workarounds and what not. 

If your email notifications are really bothering you from all of our replies. You can simply unsubscribe from the thread. If you have a question to ask, then ask it. The person replying will quote you and you will get a notification then.


----------



## Lesmor

Juiced46 said:


> While I understand you may be frustrated, this is the thread to be asking these questions. These issues are indeed related to the Epson, since Epson duped us with their false advertising per say and their claim to the PJ is "HDR compatible" is iffy and vague at best.
> 
> The probability of getting advice with a problem with a source is much greater using this thread vs going to the sources page and asking for help with an Epson. (i.e. AppleTV, Xbox etc)
> 
> If you went to an Xbox support page and said "Blu Ray HDR not working with my Xbox to my Epson" Users there are using 574657 different types of display devices. Chances are, no replies. In this thread ALL of us are experiencing similar issues with the most commonly used devices available, be it PS4, Xbox, Roku, Apple TV, Netflix, Firestick etc etc etc. We are all in the same boat and we are all having the same issues looking for help, workarounds and what not.
> 
> If your email notifications are really bothering you from all of our replies. You can simply unsubscribe from the thread. If you have a question to ask, then ask it. The person replying will quote you and you will get a notification then.


Really
Unsubscribe is you reply
I think we are all agreed that the Epson cant do decent HDR and there is no support from members to get Epson to do anything about it.
So in the spirit of your reply either accept that or sell it and buy something else

You dont have to look far to find posts mostly from you that have nothing whatsoever to do with Epson
As I said I was having a rant but now I am annoyed so instead of clicking unsubscribe I will simply "report"


----------



## Juiced46

Lesmor said:


> Really
> Unsubscribe is you reply
> I think we are all agreed that the Epson cant do decent HDR and there is no support from members to get Epson to do anything about it.
> So in the spirit of your reply either accept that or sell it and buy something else
> 
> You dont have to look far to find posts mostly from you that have nothing whatsoever to do with Epson
> As I said I was having a rant but now I am annoyed so instead of clicking unsubscribe I will simply "report"


Yes, unsubscribe. Please.

We know what the limitations are with HDR as far as what signals it can accept. Yes we know Epson will not do anything. But there are other issues that need workarounds, or people need advice on how to get things to work, its not all clear. Some people overlook settings and what not. 

There is 10,000+ replies in this thread. MOST of them are not from me like you claim. I have only been replying recently. Like I said, if you do not like it, unsubscribe. Simple. I do not know why you are annoyed and throwing a temper tantrum. 

Numerous people asked if Blu Ray HDR works with the Xbox One S and this projector because the info is not clear. On the front page, 1st post (which is old now) It says it does not, things have changed since. I have personal experience that it does indeed work. Kevin saw my reply to another user and asked a question because his is not working. Is it wrong of him to ask and me to reply trying to help? Where should he go for support? What do you recommend since you have all the answers? Where should he seek advice that will not annoy you?

We are all here to help each other(well maybe not you, you are just complaining, actually most of your replies are you complaining). Report me all you want if it makes you feel better. I will still sleep fine tonight while you are smashing your keyboard in rage because someone is asking and replying questions.


----------



## Dave Harper

peclark said:


> *Calling Harper on Harpervision!!
> *
> I would appreciate some feedback on my settings. I have had 5040 for 6 months and previously had 5030, have read entire thread. I am not getting a calibration, just trying to get as close I can.
> 
> So I tried everyones settings in the pdf file. I don't know if this is a good method but I paused screen for Passengers movie at 105:11. It is pretty dark scene and I first looked at standard bluray on Natural and everything else default. Then I put in 4k and tried lots of settings to try to match the standard bluray. Below are only settings I found that didn't make scene so dark that I didn't see detail on back wall and the tufting in the headboard of the bed that you can see in standard bluray. The blacks are still pretty good on it.
> 
> So I found out that if I use the exact HarperVision settings in Digital Cinema but just change to Expanded video range that the picture looks the same as my settings below in Bright Cinema. So please explain pros/con of then of using Digital Cinema vs Bright. Digital will give WCG but in Bright Cinema you will get more headroom for brighter HDR effects? Thanks
> 
> 
> Bright Cinema
> 50
> 50
> 50
> 50 (I need to get Masciola to fine tune brightness/contrast)
> 
> Power - Medium or High
> Iris - High
> Gamma - +1
> Video Range - Expanded
> *Dynamic Range - Auto Bright*
> Super White - Off


I am confused as to why you're "calling on me" (an awesome Stryper song from the 80's, but I digress........)(EDIT: That song was _"Calling on You"_, but I digress again...... )?

You're showing that you're using Dynamic Range as "Auto (Bright)", but for HarperVision it should be set to SDR. Please clarify what it is you need from me and I'll do my best to help.

HarperVision HDR in SDR Mode should be plenty bright and if set correctly, shadow details and specular highlights should be spectacular!



Lesmor said:


> Really
> Unsubscribe is you reply
> *I think we are all agreed that the Epson can't do decent HDR* and there is no support from members to get Epson to do anything about it.
> So in the spirit of your reply either accept that or sell it and buy something else
> 
> You dont have to look far to find posts mostly from you that have nothing whatsoever to do with Epson
> As I said I was having a rant but now I am annoyed so instead of clicking unsubscribe I will simply "report"


I don't agree at all. If you think that, then you don't have HarperVision set correctly on the Epson. It is actually some of the best HDR that I have seen, only falling ever so slightly behind the Sony VW675ES and JVC RS600 that I had here and the Epson LS10500 laser phosphor unit that I just finally nailed the HV settings on a couple nights ago and was blown away with. (For sale if anyone's interested?)

EDIT: I also wanted to add that in some ways it's actually BETTER than those units to my eyes when I compared them because the 5040/6040 is brighter at 2500 lumens OOTB and you can see that in the specular highlights in UHD HDR movies too.


----------



## Juiced46

Dave Harper said:


> I don't agree at all. If you think that, then you don't have HarperVision set correctly on the Epson. It is actually some of the best HDR that I have seen actually, only falling very ever so slightly behind the Sony VW675ES and JVC RS600 that I had here and the Epson LS10500 laser phosphor unit that I just finally nailed the HV settings on a couple nights ago and was blown away with. (For sale if anyone's interested?)


I agree Dave, with viewing actual HDR content and your settings (set properly) HDR looks amazing. Anybody who says it does not look good or no difference has something set wrong. The only issue I have is the limitation on what signal the Epson can accept. Les has repeatedly said this projector does not do HDR properly, which is untrue. It does it quite well.


----------



## Dave Harper

Juiced46 said:


> I agree Dave, with viewing actual HDR content and your settings (set properly) HDR looks amazing. Anybody who says it does not look good or no difference has something set wrong. The only issue I have is the limitation on what signal the Epson can accept. Les has repeatedly said this projector does not do HDR properly, which is untrue. It does it quite well.


Thanks and yes, he should clarify and say .........."It doesn't do _ALL_ HDR properly".....meaning it needs to be able to at least do 4K60p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 at minimum.


----------



## ghiggs001

*Projector being used*



bukiwhitey said:


> Definitely not getting the banding that you are. Here are my settings. I am using a Stewart studiotek 130 screen which is 144x60 or 155" diagonal.


I am on the fence if I should upgrade to the 4k 6040ub from my 6020ub. I notice that you are using the same size, brand and type screen that I also use with an anomorphic lens. What type projector did you upgrade from, and what do you think of the quality of the picture you are getting? I have a dedicated theater. Was it worth the upgrade?
Thanks


----------



## WynsWrld98

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Nvidia Shield works as intended  Great match with Epson.
> 
> I m getting my ref grey screen replaced with slightly bigger ref white with thin bezel + LED. Cannot wait.
> Had a chance to compare it to ambient light rejection screen and to my eye in a bat-cave Epson works best with the ref white screen.


So your intention is to watch SDR vs HDR? That's what your screen shots show


----------



## Spyderturbo007

I finally got a chance to play around with the HarperVision settings tonight and was wondering about everything on the Image - Advanced tab (HDMI Video Range, Color Space, etc.).

I made all the adjustments, saved it in memory, but it doesn't appear to save anything on the Advanced tab. It saved the Contrast, Brightness, Gamma, etc, just fine. Do the Advanced Settings have to be manually adjusted each time?

On a side note, my wife and I watched John Wick and it looked great. Thanks for posting your settings!


----------



## peclark

Dave Harper said:


> I am confused as to why you're "calling on me" (an awesome Stryper song from the 80's, but I digress........)(EDIT: That song was _"Calling on You"_, but I digress again...... )?
> 
> You're showing that you're using Dynamic Range as "Auto (Bright)", but for HarperVision it should be set to SDR. Please clarify what it is you need from me and I'll do my best to help.
> 
> HarperVision HDR in SDR Mode should be plenty bright and if set correctly, shadow details and specular highlights should be spectacular!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't agree at all. If you think that, then you don't have HarperVision set correctly on the Epson. It is actually some of the best HDR that I have seen, only falling ever so slightly behind the Sony VW675ES and JVC RS600 that I had here and the Epson LS10500 laser phosphor unit that I just finally nailed the HV settings on a couple nights ago and was blown away with. (For sale if anyone's interested?)
> 
> EDIT: I also wanted to add that in some ways it's actually BETTER than those units to my eyes when I compared them because the 5040/6040 is brighter at 2500 lumens OOTB and you can see that in the specular highlights in UHD HDR movies too.


Dave, Love Stryper, saw them in concert couple years ago. If you don't have it already, they released a cd of their old songs done in a more modern mix. Right, I know how Harpervision works, I am just playing with yours and Oledurt's settings for Bright Cinema as well. Sounds like a lot use Shield to strip the HDR off. But sounds like you believe the 5040 is capable of doing HDR speculiar highlights that are visibly better with 4k HDR vs say the 1080p version bluray of a movie. From some articles I have read that say on a lot of LCD Tv's you can't even tell a difference from HDR because they are not quite capable yet of nits. So I was thinking how could you tell a difference on projector with their inherent limited nits. My other question is if one is able to get satisfactory settings to their liking in Bright Cinema, it should be able to put out brighter highlights vs. Digital Cinema, correct? I watched latest Pirates of Carribbean movie in 4k tonight and wow, it has a ton of speculiar highlights. I was playing it with default settings in Bright Cinema with HDR set to Auto Bright and gamma at +2. I am also tinkering with Harpervision (yes understand needs be set to SDR) Thanks!


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

WynsWrld98 said:


> So your intention is to watch SDR vs HDR? That's what your screen shots show


Nope. My intention is to watch 4K with Wide Color Gamut and HDR where possible. I assume HDR was not active on this source but is set to auto, so you should be able to get it with Netflix etc.


----------



## Lesmor

Dave Harper said:


> Thanks and yes, he should clarify and say .........."It doesn't do _ALL_ HDR properly".....meaning it needs to be able to at least do 4K60p 4:2:0 10 bit HDR BT2020 at minimum.


I definitely have the Harpervision settings dialed in properly but to be fair as I feel that they are overpriced I have stopped watching UHD Blu-rays and my broadband speed is inadequate for streaming.

As for HDR limitations Dave makes a fair point but many


Juiced46 said:


> since Epson duped us with their false advertising per say and their claim to the PJ is "HDR compatible" is iffy and vague at best


feel they have been mis-sold HDR by Epson marketing
Put it this way the Epson does not come with a "Harpervision mode" and if it wasnt for Dave we would not be getting what appears to be the best PQ available from these Epsons.

Many have decided that the need to use Bright Cinema for decent HDR but that does not implement the DCI-P3 filter

I still think that Epson should have provided a UHD HDR preset based on how these projectors were engineered.


----------



## ht guy

ScottAvery said:


> What specifically does the 6040 offer over the 5040 for an A-lens? The spec sheets do not list any different features between the two.





bukiwhitey said:


> The Anamorphic Wide setting.


...and a vertical squeeze setting - if your A lens doesn't move (or your motorized sled unexpectedly stops working like mine did...)


----------



## ht guy

rmilyard said:


> I am getting ready to resetup our Home Theater in new house. New screen and other stuff. I have very limited internet access for few days till they get out to install it. Can someone point me to settings to try on the Epson 5040ub. I installed a 2006 Stewart Greyhawk screen 128" Looking to get best image from projector I can. Thanks for help!


Here is a summary of settings from this thread - including the amazing Harpervision and oledurt settings.

...file deleted. Latest version is here.


----------



## bukiwhitey

ghiggs001 said:


> I am on the fence if I should upgrade to the 4k 6040ub from my 6020ub. I notice that you are using the same size, brand and type screen that I also use with an anomorphic lens. What type projector did you upgrade from, and what do you think of the quality of the picture you are getting? I have a dedicated theater. Was it worth the upgrade?
> Thanks


I upgraded from a Infocus SP8602. It is a pretty significant upgrade for me. Much sharper and brighter image. I am sending the 5040 back and getting the 6040 so I can use my lens.


----------



## peclark

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Nope. My intention is to watch 4K with Wide Color Gamut and HDR where possible. I assume HDR was not active on this source but is set to auto, so you should be able to get it with Netflix etc.


Marty, I have yet to get 4k Star Trek, it looks awesome. Just curious what color mode and general settings you have decided best for you?


----------



## peclark

Probably wrong thread to post this. 

But I was in Walmart last night and bored waiting for wife and asked electronics manager where all their 3d discs are at....I wanted to see his reply. He said, "Oh 3D is completely dead now, 4k has replaced it and it is way better". My wife would have been proud that I bit my lip and didn't say apparently you don't own an Epson projector to appreciate 3D. And ask why 2017 is year of the most 3D releases ever.


----------



## Juiced46

Lesmor said:


> I definitely have the Harpervision settings dialed in properly but to be fair as I feel that they are overpriced I have stopped watching UHD Blu-rays and my broadband speed is inadequate for streaming.
> 
> As for HDR limitations Dave makes a fair point but many
> 
> feel they have been mis-sold HDR by Epson marketing
> Put it this way the Epson does not come with a "Harpervision mode" and if it wasnt for Dave we would not be getting what appears to be the best PQ available from these Epsons.
> 
> Many have decided that the need to use Bright Cinema for decent HDR but that does not implement the DCI-P3 filter
> 
> I still think that Epson should have provided a UHD HDR preset based on how these projectors were engineered.


I can agree with you as far as feeling "mis-sold" on HDR. But not that it doesn't look correctly. The sole reason for me is that there is no compatibility for 4K/60 HDR gaming. Which, when I purchased this projector "assumed" it can do. Nothing stuck out in Epsons literature, advertisements, descriptions and the big sellers of projectors gave any hint it would not work. It simply stated "HDR Compatible". And being that the 2 biggest gaming consoles are HDR, then you would assume, surely it would work, it never crossed my mind it wouldnt. Boy was I wrong. I read about the projector poking around through forums for months and did not see any evidence that I would have a problem at the time. This is where I feel I was misled and shame on Epson for pulling this sort of bait and switch. 

As far as actual HDR viewing quality. I think out of the box, watching a UHD Blu Ray with minor self calibrations, NOT using HarperVision, it looked very good. I believe it all comes down to the room setup and screen for most. The people that say that it is unwatchable, must have something setup wrong (not getting HDR signal, and think they are and just setting color space to HDR, which is wrong) or their room is too bright or the incorrect screen. HarperVision and Oledurts settings without a doubt are a huge improvement(but IMO, not a total necessity for a good experience). But if I never went on the forums, used my own tweaks, no expensive calibrations, it still looked fine and very watchable. This is where I disagree with you.


----------



## SolRebel

Juiced46 said:


> I agree Dave, with viewing actual HDR content and your settings (set properly) HDR looks amazing. Anybody who says it does not look good or no difference has something set wrong. The only issue I have is the limitation on what signal the Epson can accept. Les has repeatedly said this projector does not do HDR properly, which is untrue. It does it quite well.


I'm confused by this. You guys mention doing HDR with "Harpervision" but isnt part of the set up specifically setting the projector to SDR? Also curious is that the info still says HDR even once manually set to SDR. Not trying to be a pain, just honestly want to understand and to get the most our of this thing =]


----------



## Lesmor

Juiced46 said:


> I can agree with you as far as feeling "mis-sold" on HDR. But not that it doesn't look correctly. The sole reason for me is that there is no compatibility for 4K/60 HDR gaming. Which, when I purchased this projector "assumed" it can do. Nothing stuck out in Epsons literature, advertisements, descriptions and the big sellers of projectors gave any hint it would not work. It simply stated "HDR Compatible". And being that the 2 biggest gaming consoles are HDR, then you would assume, surely it would work, it never crossed my mind it wouldnt. Boy was I wrong. I read about the projector poking around through forums for months and did not see any evidence that I would have a problem at the time. This is where I feel I was misled and shame on Epson for pulling this sort of bait and switch.
> 
> As far as actual HDR viewing quality. I think out of the box, watching a UHD Blu Ray with minor self calibrations, NOT using HarperVision, it looked very good. I believe it all comes down to the room setup and screen for most. The people that say that it is unwatchable, must have something setup wrong (not getting HDR signal, and think they are and just setting color space to HDR, which is wrong) or their room is too bright or the incorrect screen. HarperVision and Oledurts settings without a doubt are a huge improvement(but IMO, not a total necessity for a good experience). But if I never went on the forums, used my own tweaks, no expensive calibrations, it still looked fine and very watchable. This is where I disagree with you.


Perhaps you can point me to the post where I allegedly said it was unwatchable?
Like most I looked for recommended settings and with my limited time watching UHD discs I have only ever used Harpervision settings.
My main reason for purchasing the Epson was to replace my Panasonic AE3000 to watch SDR Blu-rays in that regard I am happy
UHD HDR was a bonus but I also would have expected it to be compatible for 4K/60 HDR gaming.


----------



## Juiced46

SolRebel said:


> I'm confused by this. You guys mention doing HDR with "Harpervision" but isnt part of the set up specifically setting the projector to SDR? Also curious is that the info still says HDR even once manually set to SDR. Not trying to be a pain, just honestly want to understand and to get the most our of this thing =]


I will try to explain the best as I can. 

With Harpervision. Lets say you put in a UHD Disc. If you are setup correctly and outputting correctly to your projector without any sort of upscaling etc, your projector info should show you are getting an HDR signal. What you are doing with Harpervision is setting the Dynamic Range to SDR. That is all, you are not changing the SIGNAL to SDR, you are still receiving an HDR signal. 

My point to my previous comment is. For people that say the colors are off or too dark. May NOT be getting a proper HDR signal to the projector and "assume" they are getting an HDR signal without verifying, simply because they inserted a UHD disc. Then they just set their Dynamic Range to HDR and it does not look right, because they do not have an HDR signal to begin with. 

For example, play some SDR Blu Ray media. Set Dynamic Range to HDR, it looks terrible, naturally so, because you are not receiving an HDR signal. I feel alot of people that have issues may be experiencing this. 

So in short. All Harpervision is, when you have a correct HDR signal being passed to the projector, you are setting Dynamic Range to SDR, you are not changing or altering the signal. 

I hope this makes sense.


----------



## Dave Harper

Spyderturbo007 said:


> I finally got a chance to play around with the HarperVision settings tonight and was wondering about everything on the Image - Advanced tab (HDMI Video Range, Color Space, etc.).
> 
> I made all the adjustments, saved it in memory, but it doesn't appear to save anything on the Advanced tab. It saved the Contrast, Brightness, Gamma, etc, just fine. Do the Advanced Settings have to be manually adjusted each time?
> 
> On a side note, my wife and I watched John Wick and it looked great. Thanks for posting your settings!


If you put the Video Range and color space to AUTO it will hold and go to what's needed, which is Limited and BT2020 for UHD HDR HarperVision. If I recall, setting Dynamic Range in there to SDR for HarperVision works and holds as well, which actually is good because when you switch to something like natural mode for normal HDTV SDR watching, it's already set to SDR and the others are set to auto so nothing to change there. 




peclark said:


> Dave, Love Stryper, saw them in concert couple years ago. If you don't have it already, they released a cd of their old songs done in a more modern mix. Right, I know how Harpervision works, I am just playing with yours and Oledurt's settings for Bright Cinema as well.
> 
> Sounds like a lot use Shield to strip the HDR off. But sounds like you believe the 5040 is capable of doing HDR speculiar highlights that are visibly better with 4k HDR vs say the 1080p version bluray of a movie. From some articles I have read that say on a lot of LCD Tv's you can't even tell a difference from HDR because they are not quite capable yet of nits. So I was thinking how could you tell a difference on projector with their inherent limited nits.
> 
> My other question is if one is able to get satisfactory settings to their liking in Bright Cinema, it should be able to put out brighter highlights vs. Digital Cinema, correct? I watched latest Pirates of Carribbean movie in 4k tonight and wow, it has a ton of speculiar highlights. I was playing it with default settings in Bright Cinema with HDR set to Auto Bright and gamma at +2. I am also tinkering with Harpervision (yes understand needs be set to SDR) Thanks!


Yes I follow Stryper very closely. They were one of my favorite bands. They get lumped into the "Hair Metal" category from the 80's too much, but if you know them you realize they're utterly amazing musicians, especially Michael Sweet! Their last couple albums are probably their best in their entire careers. The same could be said for the band Europe too. Their best work has been in the last ten years or so, but all they're known for is "The Final Countdown" song for some reason. It's a shame. 

My answer is, it's not all about nits. It's more about the dynamic range and gamma. My HarperVision settings on the relatively dim, compared to other projectors in its class, LS10500 make it appear WAY brighter than it actually is. The HDR I'm getting with it is utterly spectacular!

When you use an SDR Bluray or tone map an HDR one, you're killing the benefits of the increased dynamic range of HDR (means high DYNAMIC range after all). With HarperVision you're maintaining that and it's benefits, squeezing it into the SDR range of the projector, then manipulating the various ranges within that to make it look right again, and surprisingly utterly amazing as well. I would be lying if I said it didn't shock me when I initially discovered this. I personally think it's the best compromise for HDR on projectors yet and I think others, including manufacturers, would agree if they experienced it too (as long as it was done and setup properly).




SolRebel said:


> I'm confused by this. You guys mention doing HDR with "Harpervision" but isnt part of the set up specifically setting the projector to SDR? Also curious is that the info still says HDR even once manually set to SDR. Not trying to be a pain, just honestly want to understand and to get the most our of this thing =]





Juiced46 said:


> I will try to explain the best as I can.
> 
> With Harpervision. Lets say you put in a UHD Disc. If you are setup correctly and outputting correctly to your projector without any sort of upscaling etc, your projector info should show you are getting an HDR signal. What you are doing with Harpervision is setting the Dynamic Range to SDR. That is all, you are not changing the SIGNAL to SDR, you are still receiving an HDR signal........
> 
> .......So in short. All Harpervision is, when you have a correct HDR signal being passed to the projector, you are setting Dynamic Range to SDR, you are not changing or altering the signal.
> 
> I hope this makes sense.


Yes Juiced is right. You're not changing the input signal at all, you're just switching the display to a mode that doesn't match what it's getting. 

Think of it like maybe sending a color TV signal to a color TV, but then just manually switching it to black and white. The signal you're getting into the TV is still color, you just changed the TV mode to present it differently.


----------



## SolRebel

Thanks to everyone for helping me try to track down the banding issue. Happy to report I found the culprit! My Denon AVR was doing some kind of processing on the video signal. Selected just a clean pass through and it went away. Feel dumb for not thinking to check that sooner. Sorry for clogging up the boards here, but thanks again for the kind replies in trying to help me.


----------



## shin_iori

Dave Harper said:


> OK here are the settings, told in menu pictures mostly. I set the menu item to the specific mode it's in instead of AUTO so you can see what it is supposed to be and to make sure it's in that mode specifically to get the proper results. The most important settings are the gamma, contrast and setting it to SDR mode manually instead of HDR. (This is to simulate using a projector/display that isn't HDR capable, like the amazing LS10000, which I want to try this on and will post a similar post there in that thread):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings are, from left to right 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 16, 32.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Panasonic UB900 showing sending HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This puts the clip point for HDR specular highlights/whites at about 1200 nits. If I could've went higher on contrast I would've probably made that clipping point at about 1000 nits.
> 
> You may also want to adjust the color saturation some. That was the last thing I messed with very late last night (or should I say this morning!  ) so it may not be perfect, but it certainly made my jaw drop at that setting watching Ghostbusters!
> 
> If you have an SDR only display you can use an hdfury Linker to trick your source into sending its full HDR signal and then disable the HDR flag on its output to the display. I hope to try this on an LS10000. If anyone here has one or knows someone with one, please refer them here.
> 
> Enjoy and please feel free to tweak as needed and share your results.


hi
have you make some custom setting on your Pana 900 ? 
best regard.


----------



## Stephen1254

*Does this projector upscale HDTV*

I'm completing construction on my theater room, and trying to zero in on a projector. The owners manual for the 5040ub talks about upscaling 1080p, which would work for upscaling a Blu-Ray. The bulk of what I watch is cable TV through a Tivo box. My recollection is that this comes through as 1080i. Does this mean no upscaling of ordinary TV?


----------



## Juiced46

Stephen1254 said:


> I'm completing construction on my theater room, and trying to zero in on a projector. The owners manual for the 5040ub talks about upscaling 1080p, which would work for upscaling a Blu-Ray. The bulk of what I watch is cable TV through a Tivo box. My recollection is that this comes through as 1080i. Does this mean no upscaling of ordinary TV?


What do you want it to upscale too?

For cable TV you can use "4K Enhancement" but in all honesty, it won't make much of a difference. It would still be 1080i though.


----------



## Dave Harper

shin_iori said:


> hi
> have you make some custom setting on your Pana 900 ?
> best regard.



No, I wanted to keep the signal as plain as possible coming from the source, in this case the UB900, so that my HV settings could be as universal as possible for each projector I create settings for so that it doesn't matter which player you use.


----------



## shin_iori

Dave Harper said:


> No, I wanted to keep the signal as plain as possible coming from the source, in this case the UB900, so that my HV settings could be as universal as possible for each projector I create settings for so that it doesn't matter which player you use.


thanks for you answer.

have you change the intensity of HDR on Pana 900 ?

best regard


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

peclark said:


> Marty, I have yet to get 4k Star Trek, it looks awesome. Just curious what color mode and general settings you have decided best for you?


I am using bright cinema mode with Oledurt's settings. Yesterday I tested 4K and HDR Netflix via Shield and it was working flawlessly on Epson both in 4K and HDR 

I will check how it will go on my white screen which is on its way. I assume it will be even better for HDR and ISF calibration which I plan to do when I have everything installed, hopefully not much sacrifice of black levels comparing to my present 0.8 grey screen...

Guys,
Any thoughts on white reference screens 1.0 gain with Epson in dedicated rooms ? I am asking after the fact basically since I ordered one already to replace my grey screen  It will be rather bright (good for HDR) since I will be using max zoom ~2.1.
I was able also to check ALR screen and ref white in such room and white screen was better IMHO at minimum throw distance (1.5 x screen width) acceptable for such screens, which is the situation I have in my HT room.


----------



## Stephen1254

Juiced46 said:


> What do you want it to upscale too?
> 
> For cable TV you can use "4K Enhancement" but in all honesty, it won't make much of a difference. It would still be 1080i though.


So the projector will "pixel shift" with ordinary cable TV?


----------



## peclark

Dave, I am still messing around with Harpervision and Oledurt settings. I understand WCG is only in Digital Cinema mode. I am a bit confused though, in many professional reviews they talk about the better colors and HDR but say they settled on Bright Cinema for HDR, not mentioning there is no WCG. When we went from Dvd to Bluray we got an upgrade in colors. My question is if we use other modes besides Digital Cinema, is there still benefits/upgrade in color when comparing standard bluray to UHD HDR?


----------



## peclark

MartyMcFlyy said:


> I am using bright cinema mode with Oledurt's settings. Yesterday I tested 4K and HDR Netflix via Shield and it was working flawlessly on Epson both in 4K and HDR
> 
> I will check how it will go on my white screen which is on its way. I assume it will be even better for HDR and ISF calibration which I plan to do when I have everything installed, hopefully not much sacrifice of black levels comparing to my present 0.8 grey screen...
> 
> Guys,
> Any thoughts on white reference screens 1.0 gain with Epson in dedicated rooms ? I am asking after the fact basically since I ordered one already to replace my grey screen  It will be rather bright (good for HDR) since I will be using max zoom ~2.1.
> I was able also to check ALR screen and ref white in such room and white screen was better IMHO at minimum throw distance (1.5 x screen width) acceptable for such screens, which is the situation I have in my HT room.



Stupid question here. I have sort of ignored talk in thread about Shield since didn't plan on getting one. So benefits are you can either strip HDR off if you don't want it and you can change video from Netflix from 60 to 24 so the 5040 can then do HDR. Right? I may have to look into getting one someday.


----------



## bukiwhitey

Here are my Bright Cinema HDR settings for a 4K source on a 155" Stewart 130 screen.

Using a Oppo 203 and Shield or Apple 4K

Picture looks awesome!


----------



## peclark

peclark said:


> Dave, I am still messing around with Harpervision and Oledurt settings. I understand WCG is only in Digital Cinema mode. I am a bit confused though, in many professional reviews they talk about the better colors and HDR but say they settled on Bright Cinema for HDR, not mentioning there is no WCG. When we went from Dvd to Bluray we got an upgrade in colors. My question is if we use other modes besides Digital Cinema, is there still benefits/upgrade in color when comparing standard bluray to UHD HDR?



So if you strip HDR and just play a 4k version of a movie with 2020 in Bright Cinema, even though we can't do WCG, is there any upgrade in color at all that the Epson will do vs. the standard bluray 709 version of the movie? Or is it strictly upgrade in resolution in that mode.


----------



## amarkow

After studying all the recommendations for settings on the 5040UB, I experimented on my own yesterday and came up with a beautiful picture with blu-ray UHD discs. I used HDR in Auto (bright), increased brightness to 66, and set Gamma at +1. The image on discs ranging from Wonder Woman to Planet Earth II were stunning. After a disappointing start with UHD/HDR discs, I'm now excited about the difference this PJ makes when showing 4K HDR movies. Of course, I have to re-set the brightness and gamma settings to watch regular TV and standard blu-rays, but since it's only two numbers that require changing, it's easy enough to do and absolutely worthwhile. I'm still willing to tinker if there are improvements I can make on these settings, but I'm impressed with the results, as are my wife and friends who are sharing the experience.


----------



## amarkow

amarkow said:


> After studying all the recommendations for settings on the 5040UB, I experimented on my own yesterday and came up with a beautiful picture with blu-ray UHD discs. I used HDR in Auto (bright), increased brightness to 66, and set Gamma at +1. The image on discs ranging from Wonder Woman to Planet Earth II were stunning. After a disappointing start with UHD/HDR discs, I'm now excited about the difference this PJ makes when showing 4K HDR movies. Of course, I have to re-set the brightness and gamma settings to watch regular TV and standard blu-rays, but since it's only two numbers that require changing, it's easy enough to do and absolutely worthwhile. I'm still willing to tinker if there are improvements I can make on these settings, but I'm impressed with the results, as are my wife and friends who are sharing the experience.


I should have added that I am using an Oppo 203 as a source. I also have the Roku Premiere 4K streaming device and haven't tried the settings on 4K streaming material yet. Also, I am definitely in HDR (as verified on the PJ Information screen).


----------



## anthonybuchanan

amarkow said:


> After studying all the recommendations for settings on the 5040UB, I experimented on my own yesterday and came up with a beautiful picture with blu-ray UHD discs. I used HDR in Auto (bright), increased brightness to 66, and set Gamma at +1. The image on discs ranging from Wonder Woman to Planet Earth II were stunning. After a disappointing start with UHD/HDR discs, I'm now excited about the difference this PJ makes when showing 4K HDR movies. Of course, I have to re-set the brightness and gamma settings to watch regular TV and standard blu-rays, but since it's only two numbers that require changing, it's easy enough to do and absolutely worthwhile. I'm still willing to tinker if there are improvements I can make on these settings, but I'm impressed with the results, as are my wife and friends who are sharing the experience.


Nice to hear. I am considering this projector. 

I have a LG CF181D that I love since may 2010 however now that I have a 65 inch TV in my bedroom with a fireTV I can really see the benefit of 4K.

Would you say the image really looks as good as a real 4K projector or 4K TV would look like? 

I am actually thinking I will take the 65" 4K bedroom TV back, going back to my bedroom 1080p 42", and applying the $850 to but the 5040ub for my theater room.


----------



## bukiwhitey

amarkow said:


> I should have added that I am using an Oppo 203 as a source. I also have the Roku Premiere 4K streaming device and haven't tried the settings on 4K streaming material yet. Also, I am definitely in HDR (as verified on the PJ Information screen).


Are you in Digital cinema or Bright Cinema.


----------



## amarkow

anthonybuchanan said:


> Nice to hear. I am considering this projector.
> 
> I have a LG CF181D that I love since may 2010 however now that I have a 65 inch TV in my bedroom with a fireTV I can really see the benefit of 4K.
> 
> Would you say the image really looks as good as a real 4K projector or 4K TV would look like?
> 
> I am actually thinking I will take the 65" 4K bedroom TV back, going back to my bedroom 1080p 42", and applying the $850 to but the 5040ub for my theater room.


Hard to answer your question because I have not seen a 4K projector, and have only glanced at some display 4K TVs at Costco; however, with a UHD Blu-Ray disc, the image is the best I have ever seen on my 106" screen. I feel fully satisfied with the performance of the PJ. Considering its price, I think the 5040UB is an amazing projector, and it doesn't cost a fortune.


----------



## amarkow

bukiwhitey said:


> Are you in Digital cinema or Bright Cinema.


Bright cinema.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

peclark said:


> Stupid question here. I have sort of ignored talk in thread about Shield since didn't plan on getting one. So benefits are you can either strip HDR off if you don't want it and you can change video from Netflix from 60 to 24 so the 5040 can then do HDR. Right? I may have to look into getting one someday.


I fixed the resolution to 4K/24 on the shield and I dont change it back and forth. HDR is there if I watch Netflix HDR material or not if its w/o HDR. Majority of the movies are in 24 anyway. The projector is in auto bright mode so it detects HDR data when needed.


----------



## ghiggs001

*Projector being used*



bukiwhitey said:


> I upgraded from a Infocus SP8602. It is a pretty significant upgrade for me. Much sharper and brighter image. I am sending the 5040 back and getting the 6040 so I can use my lens.


Thanks for the response. Please let us know how you make out when you have the 6040ub installed and in operations.


----------



## picktrekker

A bit confusing I read in some posts that the 5040 and the 6040 is the same model in Europe? But its not? In Europe its called the tw9300 or the tw9300w. The last one is wireless and white. But is the 5040UBE the 9300w in Europe? Because Bukwhitey send the 5040 back for the 6040. Always confusing that part with USA and the rest of the world, so If he speaks about replacing the 5040 for the 6040 that means in Europe? Replacing the tw7200 for the tw9300?


----------



## raf77

No. There is 9300 , 8300 (Australia only ) and 7300.
In USA 6040, 5040 and 4040.


----------



## schmicko

*6040UB / EH-TW9300 and Apple TV 4K*

Recently purchased the Apple TV 4K with great expectations to combine with my Epson EH-TW9300 (In Australia). 

When trying to implement HDR from the Apple TV, I've been selecting 'Enable HDR' - 'Try HDR' and the screen goes black, loses HDMI signal and displays a 'We've switched your TV back to it's previous format' message.

Has anyone had any experience setting the ATV 4K up with their 6040UB Projector?


----------



## bukiwhitey

schmicko said:


> Recently purchased the Apple TV 4K with great expectations to combine with my Epson EH-TW9300 (In Australia).
> 
> When trying to implement HDR from the Apple TV, I've been selecting 'Enable HDR' - 'Try HDR' and the screen goes black, loses HDMI signal and displays a 'We've switched your TV back to it's previous format' message.
> 
> Has anyone had any experience setting the ATV 4K up with their 6040UB Projector?


You have to go in and manually select 4K 24hz HDR on the apple tv.

The default for the ATV is 60hz, and the Epson is not able to accept that signal.


----------



## schmicko

bukiwhitey said:


> You have to go in and manually select 4K 24hz HDR on the apple tv.
> 
> The default for the ATV is 60hz, and the Epson is not able to accept that signal.


Awesome thanks for the prompt reply and help, I reset and it works perfectly!

Is this the only 4K frame rate that the projector can accept? Bit of a newbie to the whole 4K + HDR minefield.


----------



## Peter DS

*mount*

Thinking of replacing my BenQ 1075 with the 5040. 

Since the 5040 is such a Heavy projector, I wonder whether the projector ceiling mount I am using presently will be able to handle it? 



















Thanks!


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

check the specs of your mount and the weight of the projector.
You may have balance problems with this one.

Epson looks very good with low profile mounts


----------



## Peter DS

MartyMcFlyy said:


> check the specs of your mount and the weight of the projector.
> You may have balance problems with this one.
> 
> Epson looks very good with low profile mounts


The weight of the projector, according to Amazon, is around 24lbs. I dont really have the specs for the mount anymore.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

I think personally I would not use such mount even if the weight would match. If you don't know the specs it's another 'no' factor. Having new projector is a good reason to consider new dedicated mount. The one you have looks ok for small projectors. Epson would simply look odd on such long arm due to its size. Heavy projectors should have solid grips to hold them and not to let them move around. Otherwise you will have changes in image projection all the time due to wrong balance on such mounts.


----------



## bukiwhitey

schmicko said:


> Awesome thanks for the prompt reply and help, I reset and it works perfectly!
> 
> Is this the only 4K frame rate that the projector can accept? Bit of a newbie to the whole 4K + HDR minefield.


Yes it is.


----------



## ScottAvery

bukiwhitey said:


> The Anamorphic Wide setting.





ht guy said:


> ...and a vertical squeeze setting - if your A lens doesn't move (or your motorized sled unexpectedly stops working like mine did...)


Do these 6040 modes work on a 4k source or do you still need a Lumagen? I don't have enough throw distance in my room for the width I desire because of a ceiling beam, so it is A-Lens or screen shrink.


----------



## ScottAvery

Peter DS said:


> The weight of the projector, according to Amazon, is around 24lbs. I dont really have the specs for the mount anymore.


You have more lens shift available with the Epson so you should use a calculator to see if you even need to suspend it that far. As MartyMcFlyy suggested, a low profile mount may work. If not, definitely use a mount like the Chief mounts that can be fitted to a threaded iron pipe - very solid and heavy, won't budge.


----------



## Buckeye Dave

Hey everyone,

How high above the screen top can this projector be mounted?

Also, is the "Chief RPA Elite Projector Mount with SLM357 Bracket" the preferred and correct mount?

Thank you!


----------



## airbag41

*Apple TV 4k issues*

So I have the new Apple TV 4k but am having some issues I was hoping someone could give me insight on. I have it set to 4k 24hz but I get pink flashes on the screen occasionally. 

I have high capacity HDMI going in to the wireless box on the UBE. 

Any thoughts what is causing the pink flashes?


----------



## Dave Harper

peclark said:


> So if you strip HDR and just play a 4k version of a movie with 2020 in Bright Cinema, even though we can't do WCG, is there any upgrade in color at all that the Epson will do vs. the standard bluray 709 version of the movie? Or is it strictly upgrade in resolution in that mode.





peclark said:


> Dave, I am still messing around with Harpervision and Oledurt settings. I understand WCG is only in Digital Cinema mode. I am a bit confused though, in many professional reviews they talk about the better colors and HDR but say they settled on Bright Cinema for HDR, not mentioning there is no WCG. When we went from Dvd to Bluray we got an upgrade in colors. My question is if we use other modes besides Digital Cinema, is there still benefits/upgrade in color when comparing standard bluray to UHD HDR?


When you go to Bright Cinema or any other mode that doesn't engage the WCG filter, then you're just working with the native color gamut of the panels and projector. If I recall for these, that's about 85-90% of DCI-P3 gamut. It's still wider than the old rec709 HD gamut though. So you do get some benefit by watching a bt2020 source in a mode without the filter engaged. It's a trade off of lesser colors for a brighter image. I personally feel you don't need to make that compromise if you use and have HarperVision setup properly, but it's a personal choice in the end. 



amarkow said:


> After studying all the recommendations for settings on the 5040UB, I experimented on my own yesterday and came up with a beautiful picture with blu-ray UHD discs. I used HDR in Auto (bright), *increased brightness to 66*, and set Gamma at +1. The image on discs ranging from Wonder Woman to Planet Earth II were stunning. After a disappointing start with UHD/HDR discs, I'm now excited about the difference this PJ makes when showing 4K HDR movies. Of course, I have to re-set the brightness and gamma settings to watch regular TV and standard blu-rays, but since it's only two numbers that require changing, it's easy enough to do and absolutely worthwhile. I'm still willing to tinker if there are improvements I can make on these settings, but I'm impressed with the results, as are my wife and friends who are sharing the experience.


I would be utterly shocked if your black levels are at the correct range with a brightness setting that high (66). Keep in mind the Brightness Control would not be the right adjustment to make to cure what looks like a dim image with HDR. On projectors the best adjustment for this is gamma manipulation. 



shin_iori said:


> thanks for you answer.
> 
> have you change the intensity of HDR on Pana 900 ?
> 
> best regard


No, as I said I leave the UB900 as vanilla as possible. I only set the main settings to make sure I get 4K HDR WCG 10/12 bit from discs and off I go. 




airbag41 said:


> So I have the new Apple TV 4k but am having some issues I was hoping someone could give me insight on. I have it set to 4k 24hz but I get pink flashes on the screen occasionally.
> 
> I have high capacity HDMI going in to the wireless box on the UBE.
> 
> Any thoughts what is causing the pink flashes?


Pink flashes are usually caused by an issue with HDMI or cables. I'd try a new, shorter HDMI cable direct to projector and see if that fixes it. If so, change main cable. Also try isolating the AVR off the chain to make sure that isn't an issue.


----------



## airbag41

Dave Harper said:


> Pink flashes are usually caused by an issue with HDMI or cables. I'd try a new, shorter HDMI cable direct to projector and see if that fixes it. If so, change main cable. Also try isolating he AVR off the chain to make sure that isn't an issue.


Thanks Dave, I"ll try that. What do you mean "AVR off the chain" What is AVR?


----------



## Dave Harper

You're welcome. AVR means AV Receiver.


----------



## bukiwhitey

ScottAvery said:


> Do these 6040 modes work on a 4k source or do you still need a Lumagen? I don't have enough throw distance in my room for the width I desire because of a ceiling beam, so it is A-Lens or screen shrink.


They work with any 4k source that can output 4k 24hz HDR so Shield, Apple TV 4K, most UHD Blu ray players etc. No lumagen is necessary.


----------



## amarkow

Dave Harper said:


> When you go to Bright Cinema or any other mode that doesn't engage the WCG filter, then you're just working with the native color gamut of the panels and projector. If I recall for these, that's about 85-90% of DCI-P3 gamut. It's still wider than the old rec709 HD gamut though. So you do get some benefit by watching a bt2020 source in a mode without the filter engaged. It's a trade off of lesser colors for a brighter image. I personally feel you don't need to make that compromise if you use and have HarperVision setup properly, but it's a personal choice in the end.
> 
> 
> 
> I would be utterly shocked if your black levels are at the correct range with a brightness setting that high (66). Keep in mind the Brightness Control would not be the right adjustment to make to cure what looks like a dim image with HDR. On projectors the best adjustment for this is gamma manipulation.
> 
> 
> 
> No, as I said I leave the UB900 as vanilla as possible. I only set the main settings to make sure I get 4K HDR WCG 10/12 bit from discs and off I go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pink flashes are usually caused by an issue with HDMI or cables. I'd try a new, shorter HDMI cable direct to projector and see if that fixes it. If so, change main cable. Also try isolating the AVR off the chain to make sure that isn't an issue.


Thanks for the input. I'll re-check everything and try to duplicate the Harpervision settings. On WCG, I just read in Sound and Vision that the WCG standards and implementation are still in flux so I'm wondering if we're working too hard to engage it while sacrificing some brightness that is needed when HDR is involved. I found that all of the 4K blu-rays looked quite dull color-wise until I changed the settings. They are now far superior to the look of standard DVDs, HD video from DirecTV, and HD streaming video. I had become discouraged with the look of UHD material and now feel much more excited about it. But I'm going to keep applying other settings to see what else I get.


----------



## Lithium

Buckeye Dave said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> How high above the screen top can this projector be mounted?
> 
> Also, is the "Chief RPA Elite Projector Mount with SLM357 Bracket" the preferred and correct mount?
> 
> Thank you!


I personally went with the Chief RPA357. It includes a low profile ceiling mount plus the custom bracket that fits the Epson. It's not the easiest to adjust on the fly because of the tight clearance. But it is super solid. And my recommendation is to loosen the adjustment screws just a bit before attaching the projector. That'll give it some play so you can zero it in on the screen. Then all it needs is a quick quarter turn on the screws to tighten it down.


----------



## Dave Harper

amarkow said:


> Thanks for the input. I'll re-check everything and try to duplicate the Harpervision settings. On WCG, I just read in Sound and Vision that the WCG standards and implementation are still in flux so I'm wondering if we're working too hard to engage it while sacrificing some brightness that is needed when HDR is involved. I found that all of the 4K blu-rays looked quite dull color-wise until I changed the settings. They are now far superior to the look of standard DVDs, HD video from DirecTV, and HD streaming video. I had become discouraged with the look of UHD material and now feel much more excited about it. But I'm going to keep applying other settings to see what else I get.



Based on what you're saying, I think you'll be happy with the results of HarperVision if setup properly. Let me know if you need help.


----------



## Peter DS

ScottAvery said:


> You have more lens shift available with the Epson so you should use a calculator to see if you even need to suspend it that far. As MartyMcFlyy suggested, a low profile mount may work. If not, definitely use a mount like the Chief mounts that can be fitted to a threaded iron pipe - very solid and heavy, won't budge.


Thanks. What would be a recommended mount for the 5040? please note that a low profile one may not work for my room, as I have a fan mounted in the ceiling, please take that also into account.


----------



## ScottAvery

Peter DS said:


> Thanks. What would be a recommended mount for the 5040? please note that a low profile one may not work for my room, as I have a fan mounted in the ceiling, please take that also into account.


post 10906 right above discusses the Chief mount with custom 357 plate made for this model.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-364.html#post54927984



A picture of that mount is here in post 6 of this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-f...0-2499-00-starting-tomorrow.html#post51077753


----------



## cford1905

*5040 w/ Apple TV 4K*

Hello, 

First time poster. Really glad I found this site. I've spent a good deal of time reading through all the posts on this thread.

I've got my Apple TV 4K up and running with my 5040. The ATV is currently set at 4k HDR 24hz. I have a couple of questions. 

1) I like the picture when I have everything configured to HarperVision. Can I leave this setting on all the time or should I switch the config when watching SDR content? This leads into my second question.

2) I've watched both HDR and non HDR content through my ATV. It seems that no matter what I watch, on the projector info screen it shows that an HDR signal is being received. Is this because of the ATV performing some type of HDR upscaling (if this even exists) before sending the signal to the 5040?

3) I've noticed that some material on Netflix and through the Apple store is labelled as having HDR or Dolby Vision. What happens with material that has Dolby Vision? The 5040 doesn't have the chip necessary to process this, correct? Once again, on the 5040 info screen, when playing Dolby Vision material, it's showing as receiving an HDR signal.

Thanks again for everyone that has been answering questions and posting content. This is a great resource.

Best,

Chris


----------



## JamesVG81

Peter DS said:


> Thanks. What would be a recommended mount for the 5040? please note that a low profile one may not work for my room, as I have a fan mounted in the ceiling, please take that also into account.


The Chief RPA357 will work you will just need to order the drop down pole for it. I believe it's around a 100 bucks (for the extension one). Just for the pole lol. I needed one as back of my room goes straight up to the sub floor and needed to drop the mount down about 2 foot below my drop ceiling. Call AVS they have the best prices on the mounts and can tell you how much everything is. And it will hold any projector. Mine is hanging over my head so I wanted a mount I could literally trust with my life lol 30+ pounds doping 4 foot on to your head would not be a good day.


----------



## ScottAvery

JamesVG81 said:


> The Chief RPA357 will work you will just need to order the drop down pole for it. I believe it's around a 100 bucks (for the extension one). Just for the pole lol. I needed one as back of my room goes straight up to the sub floor and needed to drop the mount down about 2 foot below my drop ceiling. Call AVS they have the best prices on the mounts and can tell you how much everything is. And it will hold any projector. Mine is hanging over my head so I wanted a mount I could literally trust with my life lol 30+ pounds doping 4 foot on to your head would not be a good day.


I also got my current Chief mount from AVS, with my first projector 15 years ago, but I will tell you that threaded iron pipe is a common product you can get at lowes or home depot, cut and threaded to your exact specifications. I bought a pre-made 6 inch and 18 inch length from AVS, but you may find for your required length you will save a lot at a home improvement store.


----------



## jason_galaxy

bukiwhitey said:


> Yes it is.


The 5040UBE will accept 60fps HDR through the wireless connection but you have to deal with
long sync up times when switching formats.


----------



## jason_galaxy

Juiced46 said:


> As far as actual HDR viewing quality. I think out of the box, watching a UHD Blu Ray with minor self calibrations, NOT using HarperVision, it looked very good.


I agree. My favorite setting is Oledurt's version of Harper vision, but I find that the default bright 
cinema with a few tweaks to brightness and contrast plus +2 gama gets very close. And If I leave
it there and the wife switches to Directv its just a little bright on an SDR source. I don't have to 
explain how to back out of the Harper HDR-SDR hack. 

The 5040UBE will do HDR at 60fps from Youtube, I have never tried it on gaming since I don't have
a console.


----------



## jason_galaxy

Here is an update on the slow flicker I was seeing in ECO mode. I called Epson and they suspected a power supply issue. They over nighted a new projector and it has worked perfectly now for several weeks. Overall my experience with Epson support has been excellent. 

I had the same bad luck with my Sony UBP-x800 4k BR. Frequent lockups and loss of sync (others as well). They also sent an new unit and it has been flawless. Now I am enjoying movies and content instead of searching forums for "why is this happeing"?


----------



## dholmes54

ive been confused about the 24 or 60 fps,which one is best for 4k,movies as we all know are filmed at 24 fps.


----------



## Dave Harper

cford1905 said:


> Hello,
> 
> 
> 
> First time poster. Really glad I found this site. I've spent a good deal of time reading through all the posts on this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> I've got my Apple TV 4K up and running with my 5040. The ATV is currently set at 4k HDR 24hz. I have a couple of questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 1) I like the picture when I have everything configured to HarperVision. Can I leave this setting on all the time or should I switch the config when watching SDR content? This leads into my second question.
> 
> 
> 
> 2) I've watched both HDR and non HDR content through my ATV. It seems that no matter what I watch, on the projector info screen it shows that an HDR signal is being received. Is this because of the ATV performing some type of HDR upscaling (if this even exists) before sending the signal to the 5040?
> 
> 
> 
> 3) I've noticed that some material on Netflix and through the Apple store is labelled as having HDR or Dolby Vision. What happens with material that has Dolby Vision? The 5040 doesn't have the chip necessary to process this, correct? Once again, on the 5040 info screen, when playing Dolby Vision material, it's showing as receiving an HDR signal.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for everyone that has been answering questions and posting content. This is a great resource.
> 
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> 
> 
> Chris




Answers:

1) No don't leave the same settings for anything other than HDR WCG. 

2) Yes I have heard that the ATV 4K does make all non HDR signals pseudo HDR if you've selected HDR as the output. 

3) What is supposed to happen is that DolbyVision (not to be confused with HarperVision, haha!) has the base core hdr10 metadata and then builds off of that for its per scene enhanced HDR metadata. So if you play DV content on a non DV display, it's supposed to still use the base hdr10 metadata and display it as regular hdr10, ignoring the extra DV info. That may or may not be happening though.


----------



## ht guy

ScottAvery said:


> What specifically does the 6040 offer over the 5040 for an A-lens? The spec sheets do not list any different features between the two.





bukiwhitey said:


> The Anamorphic Wide setting.





ht guy said:


> ...and a vertical squeeze setting - if your A lens doesn't move (or your motorized sled unexpectedly stops working like mine did...)





ScottAvery said:


> Do these 6040 modes work on a 4k source or do you still need a Lumagen? I don't have enough throw distance in my room for the width I desire because of a ceiling beam, so it is A-Lens or screen shrink.


They work great on a 4k source. The guy who did my ISF said it was the last projector I would be able to use with my A-lens - which was fine with me after 10 years of use (can't stand black bars, and with the 6040, the quality is excellent.)


----------



## rick a

Hi. I just got my 5040ube last night and I am extremely happy with it. I currently have it projecting on a sort of dark tan wall without a screen and a good bit of ambient light during the day and the picture is still amazing! I'm not convinced I even need a screen at this point but that might be something I invest in later. I have a question though. I've kind of scanned this thread and seen some reported issues with 10 bit and 12 bit 4K. I'm new to all of this stuff and just want to know what media player I should get to get the best signal and picture for this projector. I mainly use Playstation Vue, Netflix, and Youtube so those are the only apps I really care about. I currently am using an older PS4 but I think it is putting out 8 bit. The picture is great but of course I paid good money for this projector so I want to get the best possible picture from it.


----------



## bukiwhitey

rick a said:


> Hi. I just got my 5040ube last night and I am extremely happy with it. I currently have it projecting on a sort of dark tan wall without a screen and a good bit of ambient light during the day and the picture is still amazing! I'm not convinced I even need a screen at this point but that might be something I invest in later. I have a question though. I've kind of scanned this thread and seen some reported issues with 10 bit and 12 bit 4K. I'm new to all of this stuff and just want to know what media player I should get to get the best signal and picture for this projector. I mainly use Playstation Vue, Netflix, and Youtube so those are the only apps I really care about. I currently am using an older PS4 but I think it is putting out 8 bit. The picture is great but of course I paid good money for this projector so I want to get the best possible picture from it.


I think the Nvidia Shield is the best streaming device for these Epson's. I own this and the Apple TV 4K plus a Roku and a chrome cast. The Shield has the most flexibility and works fantastic with the 5040/6040.


----------



## peclark

I don't mean to be rude. It is because of Harpervision that got me excited again about decision to buy 5040. But it just seems in my room, the Bright Cinema mode picture isn't quite as dark and there is a bit more detail. I'm probably trading off little more detail for black levels? I haven't had a chance yet to play around more and set brightness/contrast with masciola though. In Bright Cinema I had everything default.... except Gamma +2, Auto Bright, and Iris on. I have a huge living room with a 120" Seymour retractable (awesome screen) that comes down over 70". Room has wide door that goes into kitchen/dining room. So general watching I get light spilling from kitchen. But late at night when wife and I watch movie we shut everything down including kitchen under cabinet lights so it gets dark.

Regardless though....thanks Dave and Oledurt!! If it wasn't for you guys I wouldn't be getting more UHD discs. Getting original Blade Runner 4K today and having a viewing party Friday night before going to new one.


----------



## jpgfontes

Does anybody knows how to gain access to the service menu of the 5040?


----------



## peclark

peclark said:


> I don't mean to be rude. It is because of Harpervision that got me excited again about decision to buy 5040. But it just seems in my room, the Bright Cinema mode picture isn't quite as dark and there is a bit more detail. I'm probably trading off little more detail for black levels? I haven't had a chance yet to play around more and set brightness/contrast with masciola though. In Bright Cinema I had everything default.... except Gamma +2, Auto Bright, and Iris on. I have a huge living room with a 120" Seymour retractable (awesome screen) that comes down over 70". Room has wide door that goes into kitchen/dining room. So general watching I get light spilling from kitchen. But late at night when wife and I watch movie we shut everything down including kitchen under cabinet lights so it gets dark.
> 
> Regardless though....thanks Dave and Oledurt!! If it wasn't for you guys I wouldn't be getting more UHD discs. Getting original Blade Runner 4K today and having a viewing party Friday night before going to new one.



I remember Oledurt saying he prefers Harpervision compared to his original settings in Digital bacause it gave more details. What are the biggest things that affect that, tweaking with brightness and first few gamma settings?


----------



## jason_galaxy

peclark said:


> Getting original Blade Runner 4K today and having a viewing party Friday night before going to new one.



Its amazing and the sound re-mix is top notch. Interestingly I found it louder than other discs so I had to turn it down from my usual setting.

It's grainy so turn off image enhancement, it softens it just a bit. In fact, I saved a mode for this just for remastered older films.


----------



## ghiggs001

Peter DS said:


> Thanks. What would be a recommended mount for the 5040? please note that a low profile one may not work for my room, as I have a fan mounted in the ceiling, please take that also into account.


Why not shorten the pole of the present fan or get a "ceiling hugger" fan ? You can also get treaded pipe at various lengths from Lowes or Home Depot at a very low price.


----------



## Shane M

Dave Harper said:


> Answers:
> 
> 1) No don't leave the same settings for anything other than HDR WCG.
> 
> 2) Yes I have heard that the ATV 4K does make all non HDR signals pseudo HDR if you've selected HDR as the output.
> 
> 3) What is supposed to happen is that DolbyVision (not to be confused with HarperVision, haha!) has the base core hdr10 metadata and then builds off of that for its per scene enhanced HDR metadata. So if you play DV content on a non DV display, it's supposed to still use the base hdr10 metadata and display it as regular hdr10, ignoring the extra DV info. That may or may not be happening though.


Per your #2 , this is the reason I still have not upgraded from ATV4 to ATV4K (gawd, reminds me of iPhone to iPhone 3G to iPhone 4...)

My understanding is that when set to 4K HDR, the ATV4K bumps all content to 4K HDR, and this is an issue with many displays, especially the 5040. So if you're watching 4K HDR, you have to manually set at 4K/HDR/24Hz. If you're watching 4K SDR, 4K/SDR/24Hz. If you're watching 1080P, set to 1080P/24Hz. But you have to do this manually in the ATV4k settings every time you are watching a different format. I was interested in getting the ATV4K and begin collecting 4K HDR content, but I don't want to have to change the ATV4K settings back and forth all the time.

Someone correct me if I'm off base here.


----------



## cford1905

Is the problem with the ATV4K bumping everything up to 4k HDR is that it does a bad job? Would 1080P contest look better by switching the ATV4K over to a 1080p output and not having it do any of the 4k and HDR upscaling? I have been using the ATV4k for about a week now at 4k HDR 24hz (without switching back and forth) using HarperVisio for about a week now and haven't noticed any major issues with it.


----------



## cford1905

cford1905 said:


> Is the problem with the ATV4K bumping everything up to 4k HDR is that it does a bad job? Would 1080P contest look better by switching the ATV4K over to a 1080p output and not having it do any of the 4k and HDR upscaling? I have been using the ATV4k for about a week now at 4k HDR 24hz (without switching back and forth) using HarperVisio for about a week now and haven't noticed any major issues with it.


Correction I watched some NBA games on the NBA app on ATV4k and it did not look good at all.


----------



## Uppsalaing

I've received my Epson 9300W (Euro version of 6040 UBE)... spent almost two hours just watching various parts of movies and trailers projected on the wall... without audio!

it's great, I'll have to wait before i'm able to set it up properly and watch movies as the room is not ready yet... so it'll go back into it's box after I've made sure everthing work and have let it cool off...


----------



## amarkow

Dave Harper said:


> Based on what you're saying, I think you'll be happy with the results of HarperVision if setup properly. Let me know if you need help.


I've implemented HarperVision and like the results. My only concern is with the movie Arrival, which looks quite dark. I think it's the nature of the film itself, and I'm seeing what I'm supposed to see. Do you recommend making any adjustments when watching a darker film such as Arrival? You were absolutely right about crushing the blacks with my previous settings. I can now see a substantial difference. By the way, I'm using HarperVision settings for the 5040ub from earlier in the year. Was there a later iteration I should be following? Thanks for all.


----------



## bukiwhitey

Shane M said:


> Per your #2 , this is the reason I still have not upgraded from ATV4 to ATV4K (gawd, reminds me of iPhone to iPhone 3G to iPhone 4...)
> 
> My understanding is that when set to 4K HDR, the ATV4K bumps all content to 4K HDR, and this is an issue with many displays, especially the 5040. So if you're watching 4K HDR, you have to manually set at 4K/HDR/24Hz. If you're watching 4K SDR, 4K/SDR/24Hz. If you're watching 1080P, set to 1080P/24Hz. But you have to do this manually in the ATV4k settings every time you are watching a different format. I was interested in getting the ATV4K and begin collecting 4K HDR content, but I don't want to have to change the ATV4K settings back and forth all the time.
> 
> Someone correct me if I'm off base here.


I leave mine set at 4k HDR 24hz for everything I watch, I have not noticed any bad images yet, I will have to try out some of the other channels such as ESPN.


----------



## Lithium

amarkow said:


> I've implemented HarperVision and like the results. My only concern is with the movie Arrival, which looks quite dark. I think it's the nature of the film itself, and I'm seeing what I'm supposed to see. Do you recommend making any adjustments when watching a darker film such as Arrival? You were absolutely right about crushing the blacks with my previous settings. I can now see a substantial difference. By the way, I'm using HarperVision settings for the 5040ub from earlier in the year. Was there a later iteration I should be following? Thanks for all.


HT Guy has been graciously tracking settings for us here: http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf

I use "Harper Digital Cinema w/oledurt suggestions"


----------



## Dave Harper

peclark said:


> I remember Oledurt saying he prefers Harpervision compared to his original settings in Digital bacause it gave more details. What are the biggest things that affect that, tweaking with brightness and first few gamma settings?



Probably CMS, which I don't have listed here because I forgot to log them like an idiot when I did the final calibration and shipped it out! 

I'm so pissed at myself! 




peclark said:


> I don't mean to be rude. It is because of Harpervision that got me excited again about decision to buy 5040. But it just seems in my room, the Bright Cinema mode picture isn't quite as dark and there is a bit more detail. I'm probably trading off little more detail for black levels? I haven't had a chance yet to play around more and set brightness/contrast with masciola though. In Bright Cinema I had everything default.... except Gamma +2, Auto Bright, and Iris on. I have a huge living room with a 120" Seymour retractable (awesome screen) that comes down over 70". Room has wide door that goes into kitchen/dining room. So general watching I get light spilling from kitchen. But late at night when wife and I watch movie we shut everything down including kitchen under cabinet lights so it gets dark.
> 
> 
> 
> Regardless though....thanks Dave and Oledurt!! If it wasn't for you guys I wouldn't be getting more UHD discs. Getting original Blade Runner 4K today and having a viewing party Friday night before going to new one.



That's not rude at all! I'm sure in different environments his or mine work better than the other. His settings are great too. We played off each other to get the best results and if it weren't for him there wouldn't even be a HarperVision HDR in SDR tweak!!!



amarkow said:


> I've implemented HarperVision and like the results. My only concern is with the movie Arrival, which looks quite dark. I think it's the nature of the film itself, and I'm seeing what I'm supposed to see. Do you recommend making any adjustments when watching a darker film such as Arrival? You were absolutely right about crushing the blacks with my previous settings. I can now see a substantial difference. By the way, I'm using HarperVision settings for the 5040ub from earlier in the year. Was there a later iteration I should be following? Thanks for all.



You can try raising contrast a touch ) if it's not maxed already). Also try adjusting the first few points to the left (low end) of the custom gamma up a couple points. Make sure to note the settings you already have though. 

I did do an update that really made a difference when I sold the unit I had. Which post did you use for settings? I really wish I'd been more astute when I did that final calibration and meticulously logged every setting I had. I apologize and would love to get another one to do that for you guys.


----------



## tasoik

Hi all,

I'm a new owner of european 9300 model since a week ago. The media player is a zidoo X9S.
zidoo provides a huge list of special resolutions 1080p/23/24/25 , 3840/24/30/60 , 4096/24/30/60 

My old ONKYO does not support 3D/4K signals so I bought a splitter in order to separate sound/vision. This one: Ligawo Hdr 18 Gbps which supports ALL new signals. [email protected], HDR, etc 

This splitter has a switch 1080p/Auto. 1080p mode allows ONLY 1080p signals (no 1080p/23/24 only [email protected]/60)
Auto means passthrough. Also in 1080p mode ALL special resolutions including 1080p/23/24 are automatically disappear from zidoo's menu. 

I hooked up everything normal using HDMI1 port at Epson. while playing around I switched at real time a couple of times the EDID switch of the splitter.

Suddenly, I noticed that even in Auto, the projector DOES not flash / change resolution to 4K. It always stays at [email protected]
*It seems to me that HDMI1 locked at 1080p. It works only at 576/720/1080 signals.*

Not in 1080/23.976, not in 4K. If I select 4K resolution the projector DOES NOT REFRESH/FLASH as it should be.

Of course I switched off everything and switched on. No luck.
I hooked up the projector direct to zidoo. No luck
I have upgraded Epson to the latest firmware 1.09. No luck 

HDMI2 port works excellent.

Is there any way to "reset" the HDMI? I suspect HDMI handshaking problem .
Maybe to reflash the EDID info with powerstrip? Any solution?

My projector has only 20 hours....


----------



## njbrodeur87

Hey guys, been out of the loop on this thread for a bit, someone want to get me up to date of what hypervision is that i see people are excited about?

Also any issues with new apple tv 4k? Want to use it for netflix 4k/hr, and youtube 4k content as well


----------



## rick a

bukiwhitey said:


> I think the Nvidia Shield is the best streaming device for these Epson's. I own this and the Apple TV 4K plus a Roku and a chrome cast. The Shield has the most flexibility and works fantastic with the 5040/6040.


Thanks for the feedback! I'll scoop one of those up in the next couple of weeks.


----------



## drhankz

njbrodeur87 said:


> Hey guys, been out of the loop on this thread for a bit, someone want to get me up to date of what hypervision is that i see people are excited about?
> 
> Also any issues with new apple tv 4k? Want to use it for netflix 4k/hr, and youtube 4k content as well


As you can see from Thread 10932 - Shown Below

HT Guy has been graciously tracking settings for us here: http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf


----------



## Buckeye Dave

Hey all,

I thought I read the replacement bulbs for this projector were relatively inexpensive. Where is the best/safest place to get one?

Thank you!


----------



## Shane M

bukiwhitey said:


> I leave mine set at 4k HDR 24hz for everything I watch, I have not noticed any bad images yet, I will have to try out some of the other channels such as ESPN.


Most reviews I have seen have been pretty scathing with respect to the ATV4K upscaling all content to 4K/HDR. I'm interested in your experience. Have you tried comparing watching 1080p content when the ATV is set to 4K/HDR vs set to 1080p?


----------



## bukiwhitey

Shane M said:


> Most reviews I have seen have been pretty scathing with respect to the ATV4K upscaling all content to 4K/HDR. I'm interested in your experience. Have you tried comparing watching 1080p content when the ATV is set to 4K/HDR vs set to 1080p?


I will do this tonight.

I do have different settings saved in my Epson for viewing HDR or SDR material, so I switch those memories when I bounce from a source that is 4k to a source that is not, like Directv for example.


----------



## Dave Harper

njbrodeur87 said:


> Hey guys, been out of the loop on this thread for a bit, someone want to get me up to date of what hypervision is that i see people are excited about?
> 
> 
> 
> Also any issues with new apple tv 4k? Want to use it for netflix 4k/hr, and youtube 4k content as well



See the link below in my signature. You may have to be on a regular PC browser to see them.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Buckeye Dave said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I thought I read the replacement bulbs for this projector were relatively inexpensive. Where is the best/safest place to get one?
> 
> Thank you!


How many hours do you have and when if at all did you notice a loss in brightness/quality? 

Thx!


----------



## bukiwhitey

Shane M said:


> Most reviews I have seen have been pretty scathing with respect to the ATV4K upscaling all content to 4K/HDR. I'm interested in your experience. Have you tried comparing watching 1080p content when the ATV is set to 4K/HDR vs set to 1080p?


I used Fox sports and ESPN channels, both looked just fine to me. ESPN was a little better when I used one of my SDR settings on the Epson. I do not understand the need to change the settings on the ATV.

I have mine set at 4K HDR 24hz.

I also watched some 1080p movies on my plex app, all good.


----------



## tasoik

Can we do hard reset from any service menu?

Not just reset.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

In earlier posts there was some confusion around Netflix working in both 4K + HDR with Shield. So I am posting a picture to show it works. I have 2017 shield and Epson 5040ub firmware 1.10


----------



## Dave Harper

MartyMcFlyy said:


> In earlier posts there was some confusion around Netflix working in both 4K + HDR with Shield. So I am posting a picture to show it works. I have 2017 shield and Epson 5040ub firmware 1.10



I think if you read the follow on posts it was discovered that Netflix is actually sending the 1080p stream with HDR and then the Shield is just upconverting that to 4K HDR, so you're not really getting the native 4K HDR bt2020 stream from Netflix. The projector's info menu wouldn't know the difference since either way it's getting a 4K HDR signal. You'd have to bring up the diagnostic info screen on the shield for Netflix to see which stream it's sending. I don't recall how to do that though, if anyone can assist?


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Dave Harper said:


> I think if you read the follow on posts it was discovered that Netflix is actually sending the 1080p stream with HDR and then the Shield is just upconverting that to 4K HDR, so you're not really getting the native 4K HDR bt2020 stream from Netflix. The projector's info menu wouldn't know the difference since either way it's getting a 4K HDR signal. You'd have to bring up the diagnostic info screen on the shield for Netflix to see which stream it's sending. I don't recall how to do that though, if anyone can assist?


so if I got this right this has nothing to do with Epson but Netflix in general, right?


----------



## OMXP

Hi all .. I want to know if this monoprice cable is good for [email protected] (chroma 444) and HDR???

Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed HDMI Cable,25ft 

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13758

I have a 35ft cable from unknown brand! given by seller and didn't work at all (snowy screen)

Thanks


----------



## bukiwhitey

OMXP said:


> Hi all .. I want to know if this monoprice cable is good for [email protected] (chroma 444) and HDR???
> 
> Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed HDMI Cable,25ft
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13758
> 
> I have a 35ft cable from unknown brand! given by seller and didn't work at all (snowy screen)
> 
> Thanks


That should work!


----------



## Buckeye Dave

SALadder22FF said:


> How many hours do you have and when if at all did you notice a loss in brightness/quality?
> 
> Thx!


I just ordered the projector and do not have it yet. I was planning on getting a quality bulb to have on hand as a spare.


----------



## rick a

Does anyone know what could be causing text and logos to be pixelated on the screen? I'm pretty much running stock settings right now. The picture looks good but I've noticed during commercials that some logos and text images are distorted and have jagged edges. I'm using an old PS4 with the Playstation Vue app over a wireless connection. Any feedback would be appreciated. This is my first "real" projector so I'm just starting to learn about all of this stuff.


----------



## ScottAvery

rick a said:


> Does anyone know what could be causing text and logos to be pixelated on the screen? I'm pretty much running stock settings right now. The picture looks good but I've noticed during commercials that some logos and text images are distorted and have jagged edges. I'm using an old PS4 with the Playstation Vue app over a wireless connection. Any feedback would be appreciated. This is my first "real" projector so I'm just starting to learn about all of this stuff.


It is the commercials themselves being broadcast in low resolution. Some channels switch to 480i or worse for commercials.


----------



## ScottAvery

Buckeye Dave said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I thought I read the replacement bulbs for this projector were relatively inexpensive. Where is the best/safest place to get one?
> 
> Thank you!


You probably saw this post about buying direct from Epson for $99.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-f...40-lamps-99-00-epson-direct.html#post54668224


----------



## rick a

ScottAvery said:


> It is the commercials themselves being broadcast in low resolution. Some channels switch to 480i or worse for commercials.


Ah, I didn't think about that. I'll have to pay attention and see if it's only the commercials. Thanks!


----------



## Shane M

bukiwhitey said:


> I used Fox sports and ESPN channels, both looked just fine to me. ESPN was a little better when I used one of my SDR settings on the Epson. I do not understand the need to change the settings on the ATV.
> 
> I have mine set at 4K HDR 24hz.
> 
> I also watched some 1080p movies on my plex app, all good.


Thank you! I’ll pick up the 4k and give it a shot! Too bad it doesn’t support YouTube 4k yet.


----------



## Category5

Just heads up for any of those who are, like me, sensitive to motion judder on panning scenes. Changing the setting from "Fine" to "Fast" under Input Signal Settings eliminates any motion issues Ive come across. It works with 4k signals and no SOE.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Category5 said:


> Just heads up for any of those who are, like me, sensitive to motion judder on panning scenes. Changing the setting from "Fine" to "Fast" under Input Signal Settings eliminates any motion issues Ive come across. It works with 4k signals and no SOE.


Is there anything negative fast does vs fine (any reason not to use fast)?


----------



## SALadder22FF

I'm interested in the fast vs fine as well.
Also, many more sports being broadcast in 4k. College football game of the week on fs1 is on the directv 4k channel and just saw game 3 of ALCS is gonna be in 4k too. 
I've watched some UFC,the Masters some soccer and a college football game on the 4k channel, and they look incredible. 

Finally, can someone tell me what signal the Ube can accept that the Ub can't and what it means for resolution on certain things?


----------



## jwhn

MartyMcFlyy said:


> so if I got this right this has nothing to do with Epson but Netflix in general, right?




It's more about the compatibility of the devices being used. The issue is that Netflix only sends 4K at 60p. And the Epson can't handle that. With other hardware configurations, Netflix will work fine. I wish all of the streaming services and devices allowed for any frame rate configuration, but that is where we are.

It's ultimately not that big of an issue as it's a pretty subtle difference between 1080p and 4K, at least from my viewing distance.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

MartyMcFlyy said:


> so if I got this right this has nothing to do with Epson but Netflix in general, right?



It's technically Epson's fault because they decided to use limited hdmi bandwidth chips at 10.2Gbps instead of full 18Gbps. If they had then Netflix would stream at 4K60p HDR WCG. Netflix is doing what it can with the limited bandwidth it's presented with. It would be nice if Netflix wrote their app to play movies in 4K24p HDR WCG when presented this limited bandwidth though. 




rick a said:


> Does anyone know what could be causing text and logos to be pixelated on the screen? I'm pretty much running stock settings right now. The picture looks good but I've noticed during commercials that some logos and text images are distorted and have jagged edges. I'm using an old PS4 with the Playstation Vue app over a wireless connection. Any feedback would be appreciated. This is my first "real" projector so I'm just starting to learn about all of this stuff.


I'm thinking it's low quality bandwidth since you mentioned watching Vue on an old PS4 over wifi, and has nothing to do with the projector itself. Try using wired ethernet instead.


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> It's technically Epson's fault because they decided to use limited hdmi bandwidth chips at 10.2Gbps instead of full 18Gbps. If they had then Netflix would stream at 4K60p HDR WCG. Netflix is doing what it can with the limited bandwidth it's presented with. It would be nice if Netflix wrote their app to play movies in 4K24p HDR WCG when presented this limited .



For some reason, Netflix did write their app for some of the UHD players to play movies in 4K24p HDR while Amazon didn't (but did for other streaming devices). So it seems it varies by device configuration which makes it a bit maddening. I assume that if Epson used 18Gbps chips it would have increased the price considerably?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

Lithium said:


> HT Guy has been graciously tracking settings for us here: http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf
> 
> I use "Harper Digital Cinema w/oledurt suggestions"


I'm looking at these settings summary and wondering if those settings are for mainly 4K or both 4K and Blu Ray? thx

James


----------



## migsta

My projector will suddenly not power up. I have the 6040UB with the latest firmware and it was working with no issues for weeks with latest firmware. Suddenly, I cannot turn it on with the remote or on the power button of the projector. There is simply no lights indicating that it's receiving power even though power is available. I tried the trivial stuff like another outlet and another power cord but no go. I also tried to power it on while plugging in the power cord, with a USB stick connected, like I was going to reflash the firmware but nothing happens. Any ideas before the dreaded service call and a refurbished unit being sent out. Actually, will they send a refurb if it's less than one year.


----------



## ayrton

migsta said:


> My projector will suddenly not power up. I have the 6040UB with the latest firmware and it was working with no issues for weeks with latest firmware. Suddenly, I cannot turn it on with the remote or on the power button of the projector. There is simply no lights indicating that it's receiving power even though power is available. I tried the trivial stuff like another outlet and another power cord but no go. I also tried to power it on while plugging in the power cord, with a USB stick connected, like I was going to reflash the firmware but nothing happens. Any ideas before the dreaded service call and a refurbished unit being sent out. Actually, will they send a refurb if it's less than one year.


There have been posts in this thread of Power Supplies going south. Hope you are still under warranty.

I would leave it unplugged for about 1+ hours and try again.. Best of luck..


----------



## picktrekker

@migsta, how many hours do you have on the epson you think?


----------



## picktrekker

I want to buy Apple TV 4k. I have an tw9300w, wireless 6040...
Can I connect the Apple TV straight on the tw9300w? I don't have an AVR. I am thinking about een Panasonic ub900 but thats not an AVR of course.

Can I watch 4k through Apple TV?


----------



## Category5

WynsWrld98 said:


> Is there anything negative fast does vs fine (any reason not to use fast)?


I dont notice any difference in picture sharpness or quality. In my book, as long as the projector is getting a 1080p or higher signal, you want it to display the image as 'fast' as it can. My perception of fast vs fine is that it employs some sharpening algorithm in the fine mode that just takes extra time. I could be wrong. But I do know that ive tested it on various blurays and uhd blurays and it eliminates most of the motion issues i noticed without any picture quality degradation from a normal seating distance.


----------



## migsta

picktrekker said:


> @migsta, how many hours do you have on the epson you think?


I bought it Feb 9 of this year. I'm not a heavy watcher and I doubt that I watch more than 15 hours a week and sometimes go stretches of days without using it. So, not a terribly heavy user I would think. Can't check for sure now since it does not power up now. I even tried the new bulb but no dice. Yah, will leave it unplugged and see what happens. I've had bad luck with Epson as I also had a 6010 go down and replaced with refurb back in the days of the 6010. Going to speak with a senior tech on Monday and push for a new unit vs refurb so we'll see how that goes. It just bites to have it go down and get a refurb when you're paying so much for high end electronics and it goes down in well under 1 year of ownership. Bad power supplies huh, interesting.

One other thing I noticed, but only when watching Nvidia Shield content, the projector/screen would suddenly go blank for 3 seconds or so and then just recover. It could happen at anytime (usually once, maybe twice) during the course of watching anything on Nvidia Shield TV only. No other source would cause the projector to do that. Shield has the latest firmware and so does the projector but the latest firmware for both devices did not address the issue.


----------



## migsta

Anybody have a video or manual showing how to take the 6040UB off its ceiling mount. I can probably figure it out but I didn't put it up so don't know for sure and will need to take it down to get it out for service.


----------



## roland6465

migsta said:


> Anybody have a video or manual showing how to take the 6040UB off its ceiling mount. I can probably figure it out but I didn't put it up so don't know for sure and will need to take it down to get it out for service.


As you are facing the the projector there is a lever on the left side of the mount where the plate screwed onto the PJ meets the plate suspended from the ceiling. Lift the lever up, and you can slide the PJ toward you to disconnect.


----------



## SeattleHTGuy

Transformers Latest Movie:

I might be missing something as I am new to 4K UHD on this projector.... 6040. When I set up Transformers: The Last Knight, (really, really bad movie IMO) it shows in 1080P but with UHD1. I am using an Oppo 203 and a Marantz AV8802A. I have read reviews that this movie is true 4K but for the life of me, I can't get it to show the higher number? 

I have the Marantz set to just pass thru the signal.
The Oppo I set to send 4K UHD at 24Hz and I have tried other methods. 

What am I not setting correctly? I am sure it's something dumb but I am new to all 3 units in the chain.


----------



## picktrekker

Guys I am total new to this, sorry for that, hope somebody can answer.


I bought the 6040 model. But do I really need an expensive UHD player like Panasonic ub900 or so?

I only watch blu rays 1080p. If I hook my samsung blu ray/3d player or ps4 to my Denon 2300 avr, an use 4k upscaling on the Denon, do you think it wil give an 4k sharp look to the
epson 6040? Or does the epson do this by itself, even no Denon needed?


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> For some reason, Netflix did write their app for some of the UHD players to play movies in 4K24p HDR while Amazon didn't (but did for other streaming devices). So it seems it varies by device configuration which makes it a bit maddening. *I assume that if Epson used 18Gbps chips it would have increased the price considerably?*
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'm not so sure it would have. I mean, I have a cheap Hisense 4K UHD TV with HDR that I paid like $399 for and it has 18Gbps chips. The relatively cheap and similar Optoma UHD60/65 XPR DLPs also have them. 




WynsWrld98 said:


> Is there anything negative fast does vs fine (any reason not to use fast)?





Category5 said:


> I dont notice any difference in picture sharpness or quality. In my book, as long as the projector is getting a 1080p or higher signal, you want it to display the image as 'fast' as it can. My perception of fast vs fine is that it employs some sharpening algorithm in the fine mode that just takes extra time. I could be wrong. But I do know that ive tested it on various blurays and uhd blurays and it eliminates most of the motion issues i noticed without any picture quality degradation from a normal seating distance.



My understanding is that Fast mode is for when you're gaming to give you lowest lag times and Fine mode is for critical viewing when picture quality matters most. So yes it's like Category5 mentioned where it employs more processing to make the signal better when in Fine mode.


----------



## panman40

Dave Harper said:


> I'm not so sure it would have. I mean, I have a cheap Hisense 4K UHD TV with HDR that I paid like $399 for and it has 18Gbps chips. The relatively cheap and similar Optoma UHD60/65 XPR DLPs also have them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My understanding is that Fast mode is for when you're gaming to give you lowest lag times and Fine mode is for critical viewing when picture quality matters most. So yes it's like Category5 mentioned where it employs more processing to make the signal better when in Fine mode.


I maybe wrong but I thought Fine had something to do with deinterlacing or maybe that's film/Video/Film Auto ?. I tried fast breifly months ago but did spot some brief ' jitter' in the image at times, it helped for 3D motion if it was not fast paced but fast action I'm sure led to some tearing of the image , I haven't been on here in ages so might double check it again.


----------



## ht guy

Jameshtx said:


> I'm looking at these settings summary and wondering if those settings are for mainly 4K or both 4K and Blu Ray? thx
> 
> James


Hey James, at the top of each page, the document includes headings that indicate whether the settings are for 4K (heading says "HDR") or standard HD blu-ray (heading says "SDR".)

This is an update to the 9/24 version. Cosmetic changes and added HDR settings from buklwhitey.

Major kudos to oledurt, Dave Harper and all the others for creating and sharing their settings.

...file deleted. Latest version is here.


----------



## bukiwhitey

SeattleHTGuy said:


> Transformers Latest Movie:
> 
> I might be missing something as I am new to 4K UHD on this projector.... 6040. When I set up Transformers: The Last Knight, (really, really bad movie IMO) it shows in 1080P but with UHD1. I am using an Oppo 203 and a Marantz AV8802A. I have read reviews that this movie is true 4K but for the life of me, I can't get it to show the higher number?
> 
> I have the Marantz set to just pass thru the signal.
> The Oppo I set to send 4K UHD at 24Hz and I have tried other methods.
> 
> What am I not setting correctly? I am sure it's something dumb but I am new to all 3 units in the chain.


Are you using the Blu-ray disc or the 4K UHD disc?


----------



## Juiced46

jason_galaxy said:


> I agree. My favorite setting is Oledurt's version of Harper vision, but I find that the default bright
> cinema with a few tweaks to brightness and contrast plus +2 gama gets very close. And If I leave
> it there and the wife switches to Directv its just a little bright on an SDR source. I don't have to
> explain how to back out of the Harper HDR-SDR hack.
> 
> The 5040UBE will do HDR at 60fps from Youtube, I have never tried it on gaming since I don't have
> a console.


I have a UB only, not an E. I am talking about 4K60hz signal, not 60FPS. There is a difference. But will the E do 4K60Hz wireless? Can you perhaps post a screenshot of your info screen?


----------



## migsta

*Thanks*



migsta said:


> Anybody have a video or manual showing how to take the 6040UB off its ceiling mount. I can probably figure it out but I didn't put it up so don't know for sure and will need to take it down to get it out for service.


I see a lever on the right side of the projector as I'm facing the front of it while it's mounted on the ceiling. The lever doesn't go up or down but side to side. It looks like if I slide it all the way to right it would unlock the projector from the plate(s) and then I just pull it down or slide back or forward?

Thanks again,


----------



## RobSO

Hey all, I need some input on this projector. I am deciding between this and the Sony 285es. Sony is true 4k while the Epson is 4k enhanced. The Sony has a motorized lens but no lens memory while the Epson has memory. This is my hang up because I have a 2.35:1 screen. Which is more important, the lens memory or the higher resolution? I watch a mix of movies and 16:9 material.


----------



## SeattleHTGuy

bukiwhitey said:


> Are you using the Blu-ray disc or the 4K UHD disc?


The Black 4K UHD Disk. The blu Ray one is Blue.


----------



## djb61230

RobSO said:


> Hey all, I need some input on this projector. I am deciding between this and the Sony 285es. Sony is true 4k while the Epson is 4k enhanced. The Sony has a motorized lens but no lens memory while the Epson has memory. This is my hang up because I have a 2.35:1 screen. Which is more important, the lens memory or the higher resolution? I watch a mix of movies and 16:9 material.


You do get more capability for the money you spend for the SONY. This is from their specification:

Display resolution Video Up to 4096/60p 
Bit depth (IN)@1920*1080 Frame [email protected] 23.98/24/50/59.54/60 YUV422 12 RGB444 12 Deep Color Yes
Bit depth (IN)@4096*2160 Frame [email protected] 23.98/24 RGB444 12 (422 10bit) YUV422 12 (422 10bit) Deep Color Yes
Bit depth (IN)@4096*2160 Frame [email protected] 50/59.54/60 YUV420 12 (8 bit) 

HDR EOTF Signal Compatibility HDR10/HLG
EOTF Signal Display HDR10/HLG
Auto Detect Function Yes (Both EOTF&BT.2020)

The [email protected] is something the Epson cannot do.


----------



## Uppsalaing

RobSO said:


> Hey all, I need some input on this projector. I am deciding between this and the Sony 285es. Sony is true 4k while the Epson is 4k enhanced. The Sony has a motorized lens but no lens memory while the Epson has memory. This is my hang up because I have a 2.35:1 screen. Which is more important, the lens memory or the higher resolution? I watch a mix of movies and 16:9 material.


If you have a scope screen I'd imagine the lens memory would matter a lot more than added resolution for movie watching as the Epson has pretty good resolution anyway...

Do you play a lot of video games? That might be a factor to consider... I don't and I only watch movies (almost no TV shows) so the max frame rate difference doesn't bother me... although it might be a factor for HDR depending on whether or not you stream, what you use to do so and what kind of content you want to watch (60p vs. 24p max at whatever colour depth,etc...)...

Disclaimer: I am new to this and have only had my projector for a week...


----------



## achanonier

Hi Guys

After playing a lot with custom gamma cuvres and my Panny HDR settings, I finnaly tested Harpervision settings...
Why ony now... hum I was very reluctant to do the HDR--> SDR "mapping" as I always felt it was not logical / unwanted...
But a couple of days ago I said why not test it...

And I must say... that the results are really really good... As weird it may seems it provides an awsome picture...

As I'm not fond of the digital cinema mode and can't bear the fan noise level I made the following changes and got an even better results to my eyes.

So now I'm using Hapervision with the following tweaks

- Natural mode instead of cinema mode
- Eco lamp (the result is actually brighter than the original settings due to the removal of the color filter in natural mode)
- Brightness 49 instead of 46 ( even brighter in bright areas)
- Point 2 of the gamma curve is lowered from -14 to -16 to improve perceptual contrast and black level, I felt the image a a bit flat wth the setting at -14 it also balance the +3 in brightness

I love the pciture I have it's great for 4K blu Rays,K HDR Plex, HDR netflix and Amazon and HDR gaming with my PS4 !

So thanks Dave for the HArpervision and sorry for beeing reluctant to this idea... at first...


----------



## jdbarnes63

migsta said:


> My projector will suddenly not power up. I have the 6040UB with the latest firmware and it was working with no issues for weeks with latest firmware. Suddenly, I cannot turn it on with the remote or on the power button of the projector. There is simply no lights indicating that it's receiving power even though power is available. I tried the trivial stuff like another outlet and another power cord but no go. I also tried to power it on while plugging in the power cord, with a USB stick connected, like I was going to reflash the firmware but nothing happens. Any ideas before the dreaded service call and a refurbished unit being sent out. Actually, will they send a refurb if it's less than one year.


Have you tried it without the shield plugged in? I had the same issue with mine that it would play for a bit then just turn off. CEC control seems to be the culprit, turn this off before you send it back in. I have this listed in post #10822 .


----------



## Mikesp1

achanonier said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> After playing a lot with custom gamma cuvres and my Panny HDR settings, I finnaly tested Harpervision settings...
> Why ony now... hum I was very reluctant to do the HDR--> SDR "mapping" as I always felt it was not logical / unwanted...
> But a couple of days ago I said why not test it...
> 
> And I must say... that the results are really really good... As weird it may seems it provides an awsome picture...
> 
> As I'm not fond of the digital cinema mode and can't bear the fan noise level I made the following changes and got an even better results to my eyes.
> 
> So now I'm using Hapervision with the following tweaks
> 
> - Natural mode instead of cinema mode
> - Eco lamp (the result is actually brighter than the original settings due to the removal of the color filter in natural mode)
> - Brightness 49 instead of 46 ( even brighter in bright areas)
> - Point 2 of the gamma curve is lowered from -14 to -16 to improve perceptual contrast and black level, I felt the image a a bit flat wth the setting at -14 it also balance the +3 in brightness
> 
> I love the pciture I have it's great for 4K blu Rays,K HDR Plex, HDR netflix and Amazon and HDR gaming with my PS4 !
> 
> So thanks Dave for the HArpervision and sorry for beeing reluctant to this idea... at first...


Nice setting for eco mode! Wich color temp do you use?


----------



## jason_galaxy

djb61230 said:


> The [email protected] is something the Epson cannot do.


It can do SDR 4k at 60 but not HDR. The UBE can do HDR 4k at 60fps through the wireless interface but not through the wired HDMI1


----------



## jason_galaxy

Juiced46 said:


> I have a UB only, not an E. I am talking about 4K60hz signal, not 60FPS. There is a difference. But will the E do 4K60Hz wireless? Can you perhaps post a screenshot of your info screen?


The Netflix APP on the Sony UBP-X800 always output 60Hz regardless of FPS. This is the only source I have to test with but as you can see it will do HDR. Same k4 player though the wired HDMI1 will not show HDR.


----------



## likelinus

jason_galaxy said:


> It can do SDR 4k at 60 but not HDR. The UBE can do HDR 4k at 60fps through the wireless interface but not through the wired HDMI1


Why is this? Oddly enough, I have the UBE because I got a great deal on it and I didn't want to have to run new HDMI cable. Guess I lucked out that it can do HDR at 4k60.

I've downloaded the PDF and I'm going to play with the settings tonight. Looking forward to it!


----------



## Chris the Rock

SeattleHTGuy said:


> Transformers Latest Movie:
> 
> I might be missing something as I am new to 4K UHD on this projector.... 6040. When I set up Transformers: The Last Knight, (really, really bad movie IMO) it shows in 1080P but with UHD1. I am using an Oppo 203 and a Marantz AV8802A. I have read reviews that this movie is true 4K but for the life of me, I can't get it to show the higher number?
> 
> I have the Marantz set to just pass thru the signal.
> The Oppo I set to send 4K UHD at 24Hz and I have tried other methods.
> 
> What am I not setting correctly? I am sure it's something dumb but I am new to all 3 units in the chain.


I had a similar problem using a Marantz AV7702mkii with an Oppo 203. It was because I had the Marantz HDMI Output1 connected to the Epson HDMI Input 1 and the Marantz HDMI Output2 connected to the HDMI Input 2 of the Epson. 

Doing this caused the Marantz to receive feedback from the Epson that it couldn't accept 4K (because on Input 2, it can't). It made no sense, because I wasn't using Input 2.

But after HOURS of troubleshooting and several emails to Oppo customer service, I discovered that it was in fact the culprit. I took the HDMI out of Input 2 on the projector and the problem went away.

If you have a different configuration and this doesn't apply - it must be something else.


----------



## SeattleHTGuy

Chris the Rock said:


> I had a similar problem using a Marantz AV7702mkii with an Oppo 203. It was because I had the Marantz HDMI Output1 connected to the Epson HDMI Input 1 and the Marantz HDMI Output2 connected to the HDMI Input 2 of the Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> Doing this caused the Marantz to receive feedback from the Epson that it couldn't accept 4K (because on Input 2, it can't). It made no sense, because I wasn't using Input 2.
> 
> 
> 
> But after HOURS of troubleshooting and several emails to Oppo customer service, I discovered that it was in fact the culprit. I took the HDMI out of Input 2 on the projector and the problem went away.
> 
> 
> 
> If you have a different configuration and this doesn't apply - it must be something else.




Thanks. That would make sense. I will try it tonight. I do have 2 runs connected. I will report back.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Chris the Rock

SeattleHTGuy said:


> Thanks. That would make sense. I will try it tonight. I do have 2 runs connected. I will report back.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


I will take great pleasure in finding out that my hair-pulling frustration served to help another person, if this turns out to be the cause of your issue.


----------



## jason_galaxy

likelinus said:


> Why is this? Oddly enough, I have the UBE because I got a great deal on it and I didn't want to have to run new HDMI cable. Guess I lucked out that it can do HDR at 4k60.
> 
> I've downloaded the PDF and I'm going to play with the settings tonight. Looking forward to it!


The biggest problem with the wireless is the re-sync time when you change modes. Even changing from a 1080i to 720p DTV channel can take many seconds. Else I would use it all the time.


----------



## shoeboo

jason_galaxy said:


> It can do SDR 4k at 60 but not HDR. The UBE can do HDR 4k at 60fps through the wireless interface but not through the wired HDMI1




Can you confirm you are getting 4k60 HDR using UBE? I knew the wireless supported higher bandwidth 24hz signals but this link says it doesn’t support 4k60 HDR:
 https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H714020~faq-0000530-plhc5040ub


----------



## Dave Harper

jason_galaxy said:


> It can do SDR 4k at 60 but not HDR. The UBE can do HDR 4k at 60fps through the wireless interface but not through the wired HDMI1



That doesn't seem right because 4K60 SDR and 4K60 HDR have the same bandwidth. HDR doesn't add any bandwidth. It's just metadata that's transmitted with the signal. 




jason_galaxy said:


> The Netflix APP on the Sony UBP-X800 always output 60Hz regardless of FPS. This is the only source I have to test with but as you can see it will do HDR. Same k4 player though the wired HDMI1 will not show HDR.



That's a strange Info screen. I'm surprised it's showing that you're getting HDR but with bt709 color gamut. It should be bt2020.


----------



## Juiced46

jason_galaxy said:


> It can do SDR 4k at 60 but not HDR. The UBE can do HDR 4k at 60fps through the wireless interface but not through the wired HDMI1





jason_galaxy said:


> The Netflix APP on the Sony UBP-X800 always output 60Hz regardless of FPS. This is the only source I have to test with but as you can see it will do HDR. Same k4 player though the wired HDMI1 will not show HDR.


Ok, first and foremost. Lets throw the 60FPS out of the conversation. 4K/60 we are talking about is Hz not FPS. Not trying to be an *** here, just want to clarify. They are not the same thing. 

The UBE can do 4K/60hz @ 8 bit BT709. It cannot do 10-12bit @ BT2020 HDR (see the chart on Page 1 of this thread). I do not know anything about your Sony player, but it sounds like it is just upscaling whatever signal it is to 4K/60hz but only 8bit BT709. For movies, you should be watching in 4K/24hz 12 bit BT 2020. Your projector info shows exactly as I thought. Yes you are getting 4K/60hz but only 8 Bit. Can you change output settings? Try setting it to 4K/24hz so you can get BT2020. Using 8 bit BT709 you are missing out.... BT709 8bit is not HDR even though the info screen says "HDR." To get true HDR it needs to be BT2020, you are leaving alot on the table and like I said, missing out. 

For us gamers, we need 4K/60hz HDR BT2020 and that ain't ever happening with this projector. 






shoeboo said:


> Can you confirm you are getting 4k60 HDR using UBE? I knew the wireless supported higher bandwidth 24hz signals but this link says it doesn’t support 4k60 HDR:
> https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H714020~faq-0000530-plhc5040ub


You can do 4K/60HZ but only 8 bit BT709. See my post above


----------



## Juiced46

Dave Harper said:


> That doesn't seem right because 4K60 SDR and 4K60 HDR have the same bandwidth. HDR doesn't add any bandwidth. It's just metadata that's transmitted with the signal.
> 
> 
> That's a strange Info screen. I'm surprised it's showing that you're getting HDR but with bt709 color gamut. It should be bt2020.


Dave, my guess is that info screen is not right for some odd reason. I am not sure why it is showing "HDR" when it is showing BT709. My bet its just getting 4K/60hz BT709 and NOT BT2020 because it is showing it is only 8 Bit. It is a strange info screen for sure.

Furthermore, I can also get 4K/60hz SDR with my wired UB with my Xbox One S, but cannot get 4K/60hz HDR.


----------



## SeattleHTGuy

SeattleHTGuy said:


> Thanks. That would make sense. I will try it tonight. I do have 2 runs connected. I will report back.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro




This is why I love this forum. Chris the Rock....... You rock!!! It was indeed the extra HDMI run. I even set the Marantz to distribute to the HDMI1 only and not the second out but somehow that jammed it all up. Unplugged the second cable and Transformers: Last Knight... Good to go. I can't say thanks enough. Picture is amazing now, movie still..... not so much!!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## dimi123

Juiced46 said:


> You can do 4K/60HZ but only 8 bit BT709.


I get 4K/60Hz, 8bit, 4:2:0, BT2020, HDR on my Epson EH-TW9300W, even when wired. Source is Billy Lynn's Long Halftime Walk 4K UHD played on a OPPO UDP-203.


----------



## raf77

SeattleHTGuy said:


> This is why I love this forum. Chris the Rock....... You rock!!! It was indeed the extra HDMI run. I even set the Marantz to distribute to the HDMI1 only and not the second out but somehow that jammed it all up. Unplugged the second cable and Transformers: Last Knight... Good to go. I can't say thanks enough. Picture is amazing now, movie still..... not so much!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


Can't get it. Why you pull two cables to pj?


----------



## achanonier

Mikesp1 said:


> Nice setting for eco mode! Wich color temp do you use?


Default 6500k


----------



## achanonier

Dave Harper said:


> That doesn't seem right because 4K60 SDR and 4K60 HDR have the same bandwidth. HDR doesn't add any bandwidth. It's just metadata that's transmitted with the signal.


I'm sorry Dave but that isn't correct.

HDR comes with a 10 bit per color coding so yes the bandwith is increased with HDR. Now you can also do 8bit HDR with somes sources or a HDfury but that won't make any sense and would cause severe banding....


----------



## tasoik

Have you tried this one? [email protected] !

Billy.Lynns.Long.Halftime.Walk.2016.2160p.BluRay.H EVC.TrueHD.7.1.Atmos


----------



## achanonier

tasoik said:


> Have you tried this one? [email protected] !
> 
> Billy.Lynns.Long.Halftime.Walk.2016.2160p.BluRay.H EVC.TrueHD.7.1.Atmos


That a reencoded mkv right ? It must ahve been downgraded from 10 bits to 8 bit to make the file smaller...


Some of them are re encoded 8 bits or 10 bits. Standard 4k HDR is 10 bits wether from Netflix, gaming consoles, Amazon or a Blu ray...


----------



## tasoik

According to nfo it is 88GB size, overall bitrate 100 Mbps, [email protected],94 4:2:0 10 bit, HDR BT:2020


----------



## Jcniper

ayrton said:


> There have been posts in this thread of Power Supplies going south. Hope you are still under warranty.
> 
> I would leave it unplugged for about 1+ hours and try again.. Best of luck..


I had a similar problem last week. I tried unplugging it and nothing worked. I called up Epson and they sent me a brand new replacement overnight.


----------



## Chris the Rock

SeattleHTGuy said:


> This is why I love this forum. Chris the Rock....... You rock!!! It was indeed the extra HDMI run. I even set the Marantz to distribute to the HDMI1 only and not the second out but somehow that jammed it all up. Unplugged the second cable and Transformers: Last Knight... Good to go. I can't say thanks enough. Picture is amazing now, movie still..... not so much!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro


This is great to hear. 
When I was having the problem, I contacted Oppo, Marantz, and Epson, and got no help. 

I spent at least 6 hours testing various scenarios, I even recorded videos to send to Oppo for them to help me troubleshoot (sadly, they were as stumped as I was). I found that sometimes, depending on the order I chose to turn on my equipment, I'd get different results. It was perplexing!

Then, like Helen Griswold finally realizing that Clark's Christmas light display was plugged into a switched outlet...it hit me.


----------



## jason_galaxy

Juiced46 said:


> Ok, first and foremost. Lets throw the 60FPS out of the conversation. 4K/60 we are talking about is Hz not FPS. Not trying to be an *** here, just want to clarify. They are not the same thing.
> 
> The UBE can do 4K/60hz @ 8 bit BT709. It cannot do 10-12bit @ BT2020 HDR (see the chart on Page 1 of this thread). I do not know anything about your Sony player, but it sounds like it is just upscaling whatever signal it is to 4K/60hz but only 8bit BT709. For movies, you should be watching in 4K/24hz 12 bit BT 2020. Your projector info shows exactly as I thought. Yes you are getting 4K/60hz but only 8 Bit. Can you change output settings? Try setting it to 4K/24hz so you can get BT2020. Using 8 bit BT709 you are missing out.... BT709 8bit is not HDR even though the info screen says "HDR." To get true HDR it needs to be BT2020, you are leaving alot on the table and like I said, missing out.
> 
> For us gamers, we need 4K/60hz HDR BT2020 and that ain't ever happening with this projector.
> 
> Thanks for the clarification!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can do 4K/60HZ but only 8 bit BT709. See my post above


All correct. The movies as well as Netflix HDR is in 24hz BT2020 on the Sony. I'm not sure what is going on with the Youtube app. I just know that with the same settings, moving the HDMI cord from 
wired input to the wireless, the projector will go into HDR mode. Maybe the wireless transmitter is doing the scaling. 

I don't know what it would do if you fed the wireless with 4K/60hz BT2020 from a game console. Don't have one to test it.


----------



## NetViper

So question, it can’t do 4k hdr at 60fos, but can it do 30fps? How about 45? Where do we exceed the 10.2 gbit chips?

I’m worried about the Xbox one x.


----------



## Dave Harper

achanonier said:


> I'm sorry Dave but that isn't correct.
> 
> 
> 
> HDR comes with a 10 bit per color coding so yes the bandwith is increased with HDR. Now you can also do 8bit HDR with somes sources or a HDfury but that won't make any sense and would cause severe banding....



It's very much correct. The HDR metadata added to the signal to display HDR on your display device adds no extra bandwidth. You even just said it yourself and contradicted yourself above!

Here's clarification:

4k60 10 bit 4:2:0 HDR bt2020 has the exact same bandwidth as 4k60 10 bit 4:2:0 SDR bt2020. That's my point. Yes, HDR "should" come with 10 bit, but nothing says the SDR signal can't also have 10 bit.


----------



## Chris the Rock

raf77 said:


> Can't get it. Why you pull two cables to pj?


There are reasons to do it, like if you want completely different Signal settings on the projector for your SDR sources, so you don't have to go 3-menus-deep into the projector to change it. 

When I had a 6030, I ran two cables to the projector, one for movies, and one for games. Input 1 was configured to "Fine" mode for movies, and Input 2 was configured to "Fast" mode for games. My Marantz processor was set to output the same signal to both of its outputs, so when I played games, my Harmony remote activated Input 2 on the 6030. It worked perfectly.

When I swapped for a 6040, I kept the same arrangement. I have since learned / discovered that there is not any difference, input-lag-wise, between "fast" and "fine" mode, so I no longer need to do this.


----------



## Juiced46

NetViper said:


> So question, it can’t do 4k hdr at 60fos, but can it do 30fps? How about 45? Where do we exceed the 10.2 gbit chips?
> 
> I’m worried about the Xbox one x.


Its Hz NOT FPS. You will not get 4K/60hz HDR BT2020 with the One X, its not a supported signal. You will get 4K60/hz SDR with the One X. If the One X does what the PS4 Pro does, you will get HDR in 1080p.

See the chart on Page 1 for the limits


----------



## rick a

Dave Harper said:


> I'm thinking it's low quality bandwidth since you mentioned watching Vue on an old PS4 over wifi, and has nothing to do with the projector itself. Try using wired ethernet instead.


After further watching, it seems like it's only the commercials so must be a lower resolution that they are broadcasting some of the commercials in. I watched an episode of Voltron on Netflix last night and it looked absolutely amazing. That said, I do plan to hardwire my internet devices to get the best possible signal.


----------



## migsta

*Thanks*



jdbarnes63 said:


> Have you tried it without the shield plugged in? I had the same issue with mine that it would play for a bit then just turn off. CEC control seems to be the culprit, turn this off before you send it back in. I have this listed in post #10822 .


I didn't try it without the Shield plugged in as this post came in after. However, in my case, the projector would simply not turn ON at ALL. No power to the unit any longer. Even after I took it down and unplugged everything I still cannot power on the projector - it's devoid of powering on.

I've sent it out and should be picking up a new replacement today. I'm eager to see if it will actually be a new unit as they said a new one was being sent and NOT a refurbished one but I don't think I will really know whether it's new or refurbished as I don't think they will ship it like new with bulb, mount, remote, etc...will just be the projector so won't be able to tell but they said it would be NEW.

If you're referring to my Shield TV issue, which was happening since before the projector power supply died, where only with Shield TV the projector would suddenly go blank (no picture or sound) and then come back within 3 - 5 seconds and just continue playing - is that what is fixed by turning CEC Off on the Shield? This would happen randomly but only while watching Shield TV.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

any luck with apple tv 4k showing netflix 4k/HDR?


----------



## ac388

*Harpervision*

WoW, great stuff. Wonder what kind of screen are you using ? Since I am using a Stewart 1.3 gain screen which is same as Dave, n his settings look very good on mine. Just hope your refined one will take it to another level, since the Hi-lamp noise still bother me a bit. Thanks in advance !




achanonier said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> After playing a lot with custom gamma cuvres and my Panny HDR settings, I finnaly tested Harpervision settings...
> Why ony now... hum I was very reluctant to do the HDR--> SDR "mapping" as I always felt it was not logical / unwanted...
> But a couple of days ago I said why not test it...
> 
> And I must say... that the results are really really good... As weird it may seems it provides an awsome picture...
> 
> As I'm not fond of the digital cinema mode and can't bear the fan noise level I made the following changes and got an even better results to my eyes.
> 
> So now I'm using Hapervision with the following tweaks
> 
> - Natural mode instead of cinema mode
> - Eco lamp (the result is actually brighter than the original settings due to the removal of the color filter in natural mode)
> - Brightness 49 instead of 46 ( even brighter in bright areas)
> - Point 2 of the gamma curve is lowered from -14 to -16 to improve perceptual contrast and black level, I felt the image a a bit flat wth the setting at -14 it also balance the +3 in brightness
> 
> I love the pciture I have it's great for 4K blu Rays,K HDR Plex, HDR netflix and Amazon and HDR gaming with my PS4 !
> 
> So thanks Dave for the HArpervision and sorry for beeing reluctant to this idea... at first...


----------



## Jcniper

ana_moo_ana said:


> any luck with apple tv 4k showing netflix 4k/HDR?


I have been trying to get HDR without any luck. I have tried using Netflix through the X box one S and also a 4k ultra disc on the Xbox, but when I go to Info from the menu options, it’s still showing SDR. I have the 5040ube and using the wireless setup. I have read through all the posts and I thought it was possible with the Xbox one s.

Can someone help me with this?


----------



## roland6465

ana_moo_ana said:


> any luck with apple tv 4k showing netflix 4k/HDR?


I am. I had to manually go under devices & remotes->video(?)->other resolutions and check 4k HDR 24Hz, and restart the ATV, but all shows & movies with HDR have a Dolby Vision logo. Since Epson doesn't do DV, I get HDR10


----------



## picktrekker

roland6465 said:


> I am. I had to manually go under devices & remotes->video(?)->other resolutions and check 4k HDR 24Hz, and restart the ATV, but all shows & movies with HDR have a Dolby Vision logo. Since Epson doesn't do DV, I get HDR10


How do you like the image? GOOD?


----------



## pipsadiescout

Has anyone compared the 5040 to the specs and/or early reports of JVC RS540? I'm not sure which one is more suitable for me given the following:

1) Dedicated media room

2) Flexible throw distance and mostly flexible seating distance (but preferably around 14-15 feet)

3) Low ceiling (slightly less than 7 feet)

4) 2.35 screen with 1.1 gain

5) Little to no gaming on Xbox

6) 80% streaming, 20% blu-ray; 90% 2.35, 10% 1.77 (Netflix/Amazon)

7) 4k is important, but given that I'm considering 5040 and 540 I'm obviously fine with faux-k

8) HDR is important, and perhaps ultimately more so than 4k

I know 5040 has some technical limitations that the 540 do not, but I just don't know whether it would be noticeable given the conditions above. The 5040 value proposition is undeniable, especially if something notably better is introduced within the next two years or so (i.e. I'll feel less guilty about upgrading down the line knowing that I spent thousands less for the 5040 over the 540).


----------



## Jcniper

Jcniper said:


> I have been trying to get HDR without any luck. I have tried using Netflix through the X box one S and also a 4k ultra disc on the Xbox, but when I go to Info from the menu options, it’s still showing SDR. I have the 5040ube and using the wireless setup. I have read through all the posts and I thought it was possible with the Xbox one s.
> 
> Can someone help me with this?


Can someone help me with this please?


----------



## Rob Simkow

Really looking for any help I can get here.

I purchased a Denon x6200w receiver from amazon last October and it's been working perfectly since the day I bought it, until now. I recently upgraded my projector to an Epson 6040ub which supports e-shift 4k and limited HDR (not full HDR10). When connecting devices (I have an xbox one S, high-end PC and nvidia shield) through the receiver to the projector, there appears to be an issue with HDMI/HDCP -- I can view 4k just fine for gaming or pc usage but as soon as I try to load up netflix or amazon prime, 4k and/or HDR will not work at all. If I connect the xbox or shield directly to the projector, there are no problems at all but as soon as I put the receiver into the loop, no UHD will work. I've upgraded all of my hdmi cables to the latest standard and I've tested direct connections and all cables work (without the receiver). 

I've probably spent about 20 hours in the past month trying to diagnose the issue -- all devices are upgraded to the latest firmware, I've factory restored them to the out-of-box settings, tried changing any setting I can, etc. Although the receiver states that all hdmi ports are HCDP2.2 capable, I have to believe something is wrong (when connecting from pc, there is a statement that a repeater might be present in the system). I can't find anything via google searches so I'm looking for any advice I can get. My next option is to call Denon and try to replace under warranty (if possible) or sell the receiver and look for something different. Thoughts are appreciated! Thanks!


----------



## SolRebel

People using an ATV4k on this projector, do you run 4k HDR 24hz when watching 4k HDR movies (duh!) then when watching 1080p SDR movies, do you switch it to 4k SDR 60hz or just leave it in 4k HDR 24hz? Thanks for any thoughts on this.


----------



## cford1905

SolRebel said:


> People using an ATV4k on this projector, do you run 4k HDR 24hz when watching 4k HDR movies (duh!) then when watching 1080p SDR movies, do you switch it to 4k SDR 60hz or just leave it in 4k HDR 24hz? Thanks for any thoughts on this.


The only time that I switch it to SDR 4K is when I'm using the DirectTV Now app to stream television programs. For Netflix, and Apple Store content I leave it at the 4k HDR 24hz.


----------



## jwhn

Rob Simkow said:


> Really looking for any help I can get here.
> 
> I purchased a Denon x6200w receiver from amazon last October and it's been working perfectly since the day I bought it, until now. I recently upgraded my projector to an Epson 6040ub which supports e-shift 4k and limited HDR (not full HDR10). When connecting devices (I have an xbox one S, high-end PC and nvidia shield) through the receiver to the projector, there appears to be an issue with HDMI/HDCP -- I can view 4k just fine for gaming or pc usage but as soon as I try to load up netflix or amazon prime, 4k and/or HDR will not work at all. If I connect the xbox or shield directly to the projector, there are no problems at all but as soon as I put the receiver into the loop, no UHD will work. I've upgraded all of my hdmi cables to the latest standard and I've tested direct connections and all cables work (without the receiver).
> 
> I've probably spent about 20 hours in the past month trying to diagnose the issue -- all devices are upgraded to the latest firmware, I've factory restored them to the out-of-box settings, tried changing any setting I can, etc. Although the receiver states that all hdmi ports are HCDP2.2 capable, I have to believe something is wrong (when connecting from pc, there is a statement that a repeater might be present in the system). I can't find anything via google searches so I'm looking for any advice I can get. My next option is to call Denon and try to replace under warranty (if possible) or sell the receiver and look for something different. Thoughts are appreciated! Thanks!


I have almost the exact same set up (but a different Denon model) and have had no issues. I'm sure you know this (so just checking) - you must use HDMI-1 on the 6040, not the 2nd HMDI input. 

Edit - also, make sure you read this thread to understand the limitations of Netflix / Amazon related to HDR/4K. You need to change settings on the shield / XBox to get things to work and you won't get both 4K and HDR at the same time with Netflix. It might not be a HDMI/HDCP issue.


----------



## roland6465

picktrekker said:


> How do you like the image? GOOD?


It looks great to my eyes.


----------



## Redskin

Question about the motorized lens shifting. Because my room is height challenged and not width challenged I am seriously considering going CIH which led me to this projector over the Optoma 65.

For those of you with experience with constant (maybe once or twice a day)...are we concerned with the motor breaking down?

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

SolRebel said:


> People using an ATV4k on this projector, do you run 4k HDR 24hz when watching 4k HDR movies (duh!) then when watching 1080p SDR movies, do you switch it to 4k SDR 60hz or just leave it in 4k HDR 24hz? Thanks for any thoughts on this.


I just leave the ATV in 4K HDR 24 and switch to bt.709 on the Epson when watching SDR 4K and 1080p, since I can do that and look at the picture at the same time. bt.2020 looks too dim on non-HDR content to me.


----------



## Boggle

Rob Simkow said:


> Really looking for any help I can get here.
> 
> I purchased a Denon x6200w receiver from amazon last October and it's been working perfectly since the day I bought it, until now. I recently upgraded my projector to an Epson 6040ub which supports e-shift 4k and limited HDR (not full HDR10). When connecting devices (I have an xbox one S, high-end PC and nvidia shield) through the receiver to the projector, there appears to be an issue with HDMI/HDCP -- I can view 4k just fine for gaming or pc usage but as soon as I try to load up netflix or amazon prime, 4k and/or HDR will not work at all. If I connect the xbox or shield directly to the projector, there are no problems at all but as soon as I put the receiver into the loop, no UHD will work. I've upgraded all of my hdmi cables to the latest standard and I've tested direct connections and all cables work (without the receiver).
> 
> I've probably spent about 20 hours in the past month trying to diagnose the issue -- all devices are upgraded to the latest firmware, I've factory restored them to the out-of-box settings, tried changing any setting I can, etc. Although the receiver states that all hdmi ports are HCDP2.2 capable, I have to believe something is wrong (when connecting from pc, there is a statement that a repeater might be present in the system). I can't find anything via google searches so I'm looking for any advice I can get. My next option is to call Denon and try to replace under warranty (if possible) or sell the receiver and look for something different. Thoughts are appreciated! Thanks!


Make sure your denon is set with video conversion, picture mode, and ip scaling are off. you dont want the receiver doing anything to the signal.


----------



## sddp

Boggle said:


> Make sure your denon is set with video conversion, picture mode, and ip scaling are off. you dont want the receiver doing anything to the signal.


I know it's best to have video go in and then out of the receiver untouched. But out of curiosity, is there any advantage of ever having the latest receiver like the Denon AVR-X6400H doing any upscaling/changes to the video?

Any pros/cons?


----------



## jwhn

Jcniper said:


> Can someone help me with this please?


I think you need to start eliminating potential issues. Hard to help you otherwise. Have you checked all cabling? Any other devices such as a receiver in the chain causing issues? Have you bypassed it to check that? Have you adjusted the all the settings on the Xbox and the Epson as needed? If you can provide more information on your set up and what you have eliminated as issues, that might help.


----------



## airbag41

I'm still struggling with the ATV 4k. When I run in 4k HDR 24hz mode I get pink hiccups happening. However when I run in 4k 60hz it doesn't. I have upgrade my cable to high end Mono Price for the ATV and still no luck in 24hz.

The Projector Info screen shows HDR in the 60hz modewhich I thought wasn't supposed to happen?

Any thoughts why I keep getting the pink in HDR 24hz only? Anyone else having this issue?


----------



## Jcniper

jwhn said:


> I think you need to start eliminating potential issues. Hard to help you otherwise. Have you checked all cabling? Any other devices such as a receiver in the chain causing issues? Have you bypassed it to check that? Have you adjusted the all the settings on the Xbox and the Epson as needed? If you can provide more information on your set up and what you have eliminated as issues, that might help.


Thank you!

I will post pictures of my settings when I get home. 
I have the onkyo Ht-s7800 which is 4k UltraHD, HDCP 2.2/HD.





Some of the features of the system :

The HT-S7800's HDMI specifications and HDCP 2.2 compatibility support the latest formats being released by Hollywood. The latest HDMI specs offer a significant increase in bandwidth (up to 18Gbps) to support new features such as 4:4:4 color space and [email protected]/60 (2160p), which is 4 times the clarity of 1080p/60 video resolution. The HT-S7800 enables transmission of High Dynamic Range (HDR) formats, with BT.2020 support, and provides enhanced picture quality by simultaneously enabling greater detail for both the dark and bright parts of an image.

The HT-S7800 also effortlessly upscales 1080p video to stunning 4k UltraHD.


----------



## jwhn

Jcniper said:


> Thank you!
> 
> I will post pictures of my settings when I get home.
> I have the onkyo Ht-s7800 which is 4k UltraHD, HDCP 2.2/HD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the features of the system :
> 
> The HT-S7800's HDMI specifications and HDCP 2.2 compatibility support the latest formats being released by Hollywood. The latest HDMI specs offer a significant increase in bandwidth (up to 18Gbps) to support new features such as 4:4:4 color space and [email protected]/60 (2160p), which is 4 times the clarity of 1080p/60 video resolution. The HT-S7800 enables transmission of High Dynamic Range (HDR) formats, with BT.2020 support, and provides enhanced picture quality by simultaneously enabling greater detail for both the dark and bright parts of an image.
> 
> The HT-S7800 also effortlessly upscales 1080p video to stunning 4k UltraHD.


I would probably start by bypassing the receiver by going direct from the XBox to the Epson to eliminate the receiver. It appears to be compatible, but you may need to adjust the settings. By taking it out of the chain you may be able to at least isolate where the issue is. If that doesn't work, then it might be the cable. Make sure you are using HDMI-1 on the Epson. Then you can report back.

Hope that helps.


----------



## john barlow

******* said:


> Question about the motorized lens shifting. Because my room is height challenged and not width challenged I am seriously considering going CIH which led me to this projector over the Optoma 65.
> 
> For those of you with experience with constant (maybe once or twice a day)...are we concerned with the motor breaking down?
> 
> Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk


 I haven't worried about it because I trust Epson. The quality of this projector is impressive, to say the least. The resolution of their eshift 4K is excellent in my opinion. I've not compared it to the true 4K Sony, because I've never had the opportunity. For me, this projector is amazing for now. I've got a new lamp sitting here ready to install. My 5040 us at four thousand hours. There is a little yellow warning message instructing me to install a replacement lamp. Problem is, I'm still able to dial in a great picture with plenty of contrast and brightness. I don't feel compelled to rush while I am still fleshing out a reliable and beautiful 4K, HDR image.


----------



## jwhn

Jcniper said:


> Thank you!
> 
> I will post pictures of my settings when I get home.
> I have the onkyo Ht-s7800 which is 4k UltraHD, HDCP 2.2/HD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the features of the system :
> 
> The HT-S7800's HDMI specifications and HDCP 2.2 compatibility support the latest formats being released by Hollywood. The latest HDMI specs offer a significant increase in bandwidth (up to 18Gbps) to support new features such as 4:4:4 color space and [email protected]/60 (2160p), which is 4 times the clarity of 1080p/60 video resolution. The HT-S7800 enables transmission of High Dynamic Range (HDR) formats, with BT.2020 support, and provides enhanced picture quality by simultaneously enabling greater detail for both the dark and bright parts of an image.
> 
> The HT-S7800 also effortlessly upscales 1080p video to stunning 4k UltraHD.


Correction - sorry, my mistake. You actually can't get Netflix HDR on the XBox because there is no way (that I know of) to force the XBox to 24hz. Amazon video HDR should work, however. Sorry, it's been too long since I had messed with this on the Xbox.


----------



## Juiced46

Jcniper said:


> Can someone help me with this please?


Can you post the video details screen of your Xbox where it shows what signals you are getting and not with the check marks?

You need to make sure on the Xbox Video settings, you have it set to 4K UHD. You need the Connection setting to AUTO (this is a must) Do not manually select HDMI. You need ALL boxes including HDR and 4:2:2 checked in Advanced video settings. 

What receiver are you running? What cables? Make sure you are conneted to HDMI 1 on the projector. If you are using a receiver. Bypass it and connect directly to the Xbox and see if it works 

Netflix on the Xbox will NOT do 4K/HDR. 4K UHD will work however and also Amazon Prime will work. 



Rob Simkow said:


> Really looking for any help I can get here.
> 
> I purchased a Denon x6200w receiver from amazon last October and it's been working perfectly since the day I bought it, until now. I recently upgraded my projector to an Epson 6040ub which supports e-shift 4k and limited HDR (not full HDR10). When connecting devices (I have an xbox one S, high-end PC and nvidia shield) through the receiver to the projector, there appears to be an issue with HDMI/HDCP -- I can view 4k just fine for gaming or pc usage but as soon as I try to load up netflix or amazon prime, 4k and/or HDR will not work at all. If I connect the xbox or shield directly to the projector, there are no problems at all but as soon as I put the receiver into the loop, no UHD will work. I've upgraded all of my hdmi cables to the latest standard and I've tested direct connections and all cables work (without the receiver).
> 
> I've probably spent about 20 hours in the past month trying to diagnose the issue -- all devices are upgraded to the latest firmware, I've factory restored them to the out-of-box settings, tried changing any setting I can, etc. Although the receiver states that all hdmi ports are HCDP2.2 capable, I have to believe something is wrong (when connecting from pc, there is a statement that a repeater might be present in the system). I can't find anything via google searches so I'm looking for any advice I can get. My next option is to call Denon and try to replace under warranty (if possible) or sell the receiver and look for something different. Thoughts are appreciated! Thanks!





Boggle said:


> Make sure your denon is set with video conversion, picture mode, and ip scaling are off. you dont want the receiver doing anything to the signal.


Like Boggle mentioned, all video conversion, IP scalers, picture mode etc needs to be turned off. This is found in the HDMI Settings in the AVR. 

I use a Denon 4300 which is simliar to your 6200 and it works fine with what you are trying to do. 

Make sure you have the HDMI cable on the ARC OUT port of the AVR. Unplug any extra HDMI output cables to other monitors if you have them plugged in just to rule that out. Make sure in your HDMI video settings you are Outputting to HDMI 1 ONLY (this is important). Not HDMI 1+2. This I have seen cause issues. 

Obviously you ruled out the cables. Something is not set correctly in the receiver. I would not bother sending it back just yet. Can you post a screen shot of the HDMI video settings from your AVR? I will post mine up later so you can compare.


----------



## Boggle

sddp said:


> I know it's best to have video go in and then out of the receiver untouched. But out of curiosity, is there any advantage of ever having the latest receiver like the Denon AVR-X6400H doing any upscaling/changes to the video?
> 
> Any pros/cons?


short answer- not really. Madvr can do really cool things if you want to upscale using an htpc. but without an htpc in general the projector can do upscaling best so it's better to just give it a straight signal so that things like hdr work properly.


----------



## Rob Simkow

Boggle said:


> Make sure your denon is set with video conversion, picture mode, and ip scaling are off. you dont want the receiver doing anything to the signal.


I turned it all off, still causing conflicts with the xbox netflix and the PC. I understand the limitations but without the receiver connected, xbox will allow netflix in ultra HD, with the receiver it won't work. It's driving me crazy.


----------



## hnupe

*DVDO DVDO-4KSVP??? Will it help on 5040UB?*

Hello,

Has anybody used it on their 5040ub? IF so, is is worth paying for?

Thanks


----------



## NetViper

Juiced46 said:


> Its Hz NOT FPS. You will not get 4K/60hz HDR BT2020 with the One X, its not a supported signal. You will get 4K60/hz SDR with the One X. If the One X does what the PS4 Pro does, you will get HDR in 1080p.
> 
> See the chart on Page 1 for the limits


It will have to do until the next gen Epson comes along.


----------



## Juiced46

Rob Simkow said:


> I turned it all off, still causing conflicts with the xbox netflix and the PC. I understand the limitations but without the receiver connected, xbox will allow netflix in ultra HD, with the receiver it won't work. It's driving me crazy.



How many monitor outputs are connected to the receiver?

Can you post a screenshot when you are running the projector directly to the Xbox with Netflix in 4K HDR? Are you running it wired or wireless?


----------



## Dominic Chan

jason_galaxy said:


> The biggest problem with the wireless is the re-sync time when you change modes. Even changing from a 1080i to 720p DTV channel can take many seconds. Else I would use it all the time.


How’s the resync time when using the hdmi input? With the jvc projectors it lasts for almost 20 seconds.


----------



## jason_galaxy

Dominic Chan said:


> How’s the resync time when using the hdmi input? With the jvc projectors it lasts for almost 20 seconds.


Just 2-3 seconds.


----------



## Monger

I put up the 5040ub last night in place of my Sony vpl-hw55es. I did a little bit of playing around and The Tick looked absolutely fantastic using the Harpervision settings.

Quick questions because this thread is so massive:

Does the Epson and Samsung 8500 combination play 4k blu rays correctly yet?


----------



## ht guy

Oledurt said:


> Hello again.
> 
> I am still using my Digital Cinema settings for HDR they look great, on all the material I have watched.
> 
> keep an eye out I will be posting my ISF settings for Standard blu ray soon...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Cool. Can't wait!


----------



## terminal33

onair125 said:


> Any owners with Roku Ultra with their Epson 5040ub?
> 
> I noticed some issue when using the Netflix app.
> When scrolling thru movies/shows, between 4K Ultra HD and regular HD (vice versa), my Epson 5040ub would lose signal (blank screen) for a good 10-20 seconds before it would come back. It seems like the Epson 5040ub would lose connection when the contents switches between 4k and HD.
> Any idea to fix this?


I just got the 2017 Roku Ultra and I have the same issue. I was watching Spectre (Amazon UHD) and when I exited the app, the screen went blank. I had to change inputs on my Denon AVR and then switch it back. Any fixes?


----------



## spirithockey79

Any suggestions on where to find a cheap lamp for this pj? I saw a post a few pages back about $99 lamps but can’t find it anywhere. Still seeing them in the $200 range 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## bnergi

Hi. I am a newbie. Sorry if already asked, but I could not find any information.
I know that 5040ub has a 10 gbps chipset.
Is there anyway to bypass that limit and increase it to 18 gbps, by using a Fury or anyother product.
Thanks.


----------



## Jcniper

jwhn said:


> I would probably start by bypassing the receiver by going direct from the XBox to the Epson to eliminate the receiver. It appears to be compatible, but you may need to adjust the settings. By taking it out of the chain you may be able to at least isolate where the issue is. If that doesn't work, then it might be the cable. Make sure you are using HDMI-1 on the Epson. Then you can report back.
> 
> Hope that helps.


So I bypassed the receiver and plugged the HDMI cable to the HDMI 1 slot on the projector and went straight to the Xbox. I was able to get HDR to work using a 4k ultra disc, but still no HDR on Netflix. I then went back to the wireless receiver and HDR started working with the Xbox using the 4k ultra disc, but no Netflix.

I don't know what the issue is with Netflix. Is there a setting that I have to enable or disable on my Xbox?


----------



## jwhn

Jcniper said:


> So I bypassed the receiver and plugged the HDMI cable to the HDMI 1 slot on the projector and went straight to the Xbox. I was able to get HDR to work using a 4k ultra disc, but still no HDR on Netflix. I then went back to the wireless receiver and HDR started working with the Xbox using the 4k ultra disc, but no Netflix.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what the issue is with Netflix. Is there a setting that I have to enable or disable on my Xbox?




I actually responded to your question again saying that you cannot get HDR on Netflix with the XBox because there is no way to force the Xbox to 24hz. You would have to buy an HDFury linker or something like that (not worth it just to get Netflix HDR IMHO)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

Is it possible to get regular local TV channels and watch it on the Epson? I’m using the Denon receiver and Oppo 203 Blu-ray player


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jcniper

jwhn said:


> I actually responded to your question again saying that you cannot get HDR on Netflix with the XBox because there is no way to force the Xbox to 24hz. You would have to buy an HDFury linker or something like that (not worth it just to get Netflix HDR IMHO)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Missed that message. Thanks for helping....appreciate it.


----------



## jwhn

Jameshtx said:


> Is it possible to get regular local TV channels and watch it on the Epson? I’m using the Denon receiver and Oppo 203 Blu-ray player
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think you would need a TV tuner like the HDHomerun or Tablo (plus an antenna). Then you would need to see if you can get the software you need on the Oppo (Plex maybe?). If not, you may need to pick up a FireTV stick. Here is a link. https://www.silicondust.com/live-tv/#devices

I have only looked into this a little bit and am considering getting the Tablo tuner adapter for my Nvidia Shield to get free OTA channels. There may be a better thread for this question as it's not really specific to the Epson.


----------



## siuengr

Jameshtx said:


> Is it possible to get regular local TV channels and watch it on the Epson? I’m using the Denon receiver and Oppo 203 Blu-ray player
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you want the absolute cheapest route to view local channels you can pick to something like these.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1508528587&sr=8-3&keywords=ota+receiver

https://www.amazon.com/IVIEW-3500STBII-Digital-Converter-Recording-Channel/dp/B00GOILYB6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1508528587&sr=8-5&keywords=ota+receiver


----------



## inspector

Monger said:


> I put up the 5040ub last night in place of my Sony vpl-hw55es. I did a little bit of playing around and The Tick looked absolutely fantastic using the Harpervision settings.
> 
> Quick questions because this thread is so massive:
> 
> Does the Epson and Samsung 8500 combination play 4k blu rays correctly yet?



I have both and they play 4K perfectly!


----------



## picktrekker

Jameshtx said:


> Is it possible to get regular local TV channels and watch it on the Epson? I’m using the Denon receiver and Oppo 203 Blu-ray player
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes ofcourse, I even hooked it up at 720p material still looked good, but the HD channels looked best of course, really sharp and overall nice picture quality.


----------



## raf77

bnergi said:


> Hi. I am a newbie. Sorry if already asked, but I could not find any information.
> I know that 5040ub has a 10 gbps chipset.
> Is there anyway to bypass that limit and increase it to 18 gbps, by using a Fury or anyother product.
> Thanks.


Sure.
The best way is by other product.
Other projector ☺


----------



## john barlow

raf77 said:


> Sure.
> The best way is by other product.
> Other projector ☺


 Not at this price point. You could get a used or demo JVC from last year's selection. Or you could shell out a lot more for this year's model.


----------



## BiggNewt

Forgive me if this has been answered but my search came up short on this.

Can the Amazon Fire TV Gen 2 show 4K HDR on Netflix to this projector? I also have an Xbox One S but I know that can't.


----------



## picktrekker

Who uses an affordable UHD blu ray player with this projector that looks stunning?

I want to buy an Sony x800 with it, anybody that uses this UHD player with this projector? I have read that you can not turn HDR of on this player.
4k IS FINE for me no HDR needed. Just curious if anybody already has this setup and if it works?


----------



## djb61230

picktrekker said:


> Who uses an affordable UHD blu ray player with this projector that looks stunning?
> 
> I want to buy an Sony x800 with it, anybody that uses this UHD player with this projector? I have read that you can not turn HDR of on this player.
> 4k IS FINE for me no HDR needed. Just curious if anybody already has this setup and if it works?


I have that combo. Just watched Spiderman and Close Encounters UHD disks this afternoon. They were great. Never thought to turn off HDR at the player as I think UHD disks are mostly 24Hz and look great on this projector with HDR. I think when I used the SONY to play Billy Lynn a couple of months ago it turned off HDR on it's own as Billy Lynn is one of the few UHD at 60Hz.

Not really an expert about that though, I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## jwhn

BiggNewt said:


> Forgive me if this has been answered but my search came up short on this.
> 
> 
> 
> Can the Amazon Fire TV Gen 2 show 4K HDR on Netflix to this projector? I also have an Xbox One S but I know that can't.




No it can't do HDR at all. The new fire tv is coming out in a few days and it will support HDR. But it's not clear whether it will solve the Netflix issue. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BiggNewt

jwhn said:


> No it can't do HDR at all. The new fire tv is coming out in a few days and it will support HDR. But it's not clear whether it will solve the Netflix issue.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Gotcha, thanks. I'll check and see reports on if the new Fire TV fixes this issue. I went ahead and ordered this projector from Visual Apex to compare it to my Sony HW40ES since they have the 30 day no hassle returns.


----------



## Viche

BiggNewt said:


> Gotcha, thanks. I'll check and see reports on if the new Fire TV fixes this issue. I went ahead and ordered this projector from Visual Apex to compare it to my Sony HW40ES since they have the 30 day no hassle returns.



Please let us know what you think.
Here are some settings to try out. These are key to getting the most from this projector. Try Dave Harper and Oledurt's settings.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2298618&d=1508066593


----------



## SALadder22FF

Does anyone that watches a good amount of 3d have issues with this projector and lip sync issues? No other format but almost every 3d movie I rent has lip sync issues..sound comes slightly before motion.


----------



## WynsWrld98

SALadder22FF said:


> Does anyone that watches a good amount of 3d have issues with this projector and lip sync issues? No other format but almost every 3d movie I rent has lip sync issues..sound comes slightly before motion.


I haven't had that problem but depends on Lip Sync settings in your player and A/V receiver.


----------



## SALadder22FF

WynsWrld98 said:


> I haven't had that problem but depends on Lip Sync settings in your player and A/V receiver.


Do u have any adjustments made? Or just default


----------



## WynsWrld98

SALadder22FF said:


> Do u have any adjustments made? Or just default


Lip sync set to Auto in my Denon A/V receiver.


----------



## charlie4x4

I own a 5040UB and have had it mounted for a couple months. I probably have used it maybe 15 times. I went to use it yesterday and nothing will come on. I changed the power cord with one i know works and changed the outlet too. Any ideas? No status lights at all, everything is off.


----------



## schamber

SALadder22FF said:


> Does anyone that watches a good amount of 3d have issues with this projector and lip sync issues? No other format but almost every 3d movie I rent has lip sync issues..sound comes slightly before motion.




No lip sync issues. Mine is video direct from the X800 and audio to 8801. No special settings for the audio. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Epson 6040UB; Marantz AV8801; B&K THX 30; Sony UBP-X800; Snell Signature C7 speakers; Snell ICS 24 sub; Stewart 1.1 110"


----------



## Monger

inspector said:


> I have both and they play 4K perfectly!


Is there a secret to getting 4K HDR or is it disc dependent? I watched Spider-Man Homecoming and I get 1080p 10-bit 4:4:4 with Rec 709.


----------



## zedbimmer

I have a ht2050 going through a denon avr, everytime I turn the projector on before my PS4 it would snow. I bought a better quality 25ft hdmi, but felt lazy due to just having to turn ps4 on first.

Sent from my LGLS996 using Tapatalk


----------



## SeattleHTGuy

Monger said:


> Is there a secret to getting 4K HDR or is it disc dependent? I watched Spider-Man Homecoming and I get 1080p 10-bit 4:4:4 with Rec 709.


I too just purchased the 6040. Just like I tell the misses, start at the start. Or "reboot first" then ask questions. You need to make sure your source device is set or can send 4K material. In the case of Spider-Man, it is 4K 24Hz + the Color stuff. Remember the 5040/6040, don't do some 4K 60Hz material (Whci should not apply to this movie). I have an Oppo 203. I set it to output correctly. Then, if you are using a Receiver/Pre make sure it too is set correctly. One other note, I am using an optical cable so the Epson doesn't return infor to my Pre. Then and only then start with the Epson controls. At the moment I have about 8 14/15 year old screaming girls watching your exact movie selection and can't go over those presets. Also, whatever you do, set for High Lamp and Bright Cinema and then look this thread for suggested customization. Truthfully, I have only calibrated 1080 P SD at Cinema setting and Medium Light.


----------



## Monger

SeattleHTGuy said:


> I too just purchased the 6040. Just like I tell the misses, start at the start. Or "reboot first" then ask questions. You need to make sure your source device is set or can send 4K material. In the case of Spider-Man, it is 4K 24Hz + the Color stuff. Remember the 5040/6040, don't do some 4K 60Hz material (Whci should not apply to this movie). I have an Oppo 203. I set it to output correctly. Then, if you are using a Receiver/Pre make sure it too is set correctly. One other note, I am using an optical cable so the Epson doesn't return infor to my Pre. Then and only then start with the Epson controls. At the moment I have about 8 14/15 year old screaming girls watching your exact movie selection and can't go over those presets. Also, whatever you do, set for High Lamp and Bright Cinema and then look this thread for suggested customization. Truthfully, I have only calibrated 1080 P SD at Cinema setting and Medium Light.


It’s listed as a known issue with the Samsung 8500 player I’m using and this pj in the OP, but I didn’t know if it had been corrected via firmware since and because this thread is so large I had started with that question. I have a tv connected to the same receiver that gets the correct output. 

Also, the Amazon prime app sends 4K/24 HDR as expected using this player and pj, but Netflix and 4K blu rays have given me the issue as described in the OP.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Hey guys, Proud new owner of 5040ub here. 

I'm coming from a 2040 (first projector) and wasn't looking to upgrade yet but the deal was to good to pass up so I ordered, Maybe a bit too quickly. While there is no doubt that it'll be a huge improvement I forgot to look at the projector placement option in details.

The 2040 was a pain in that regard and I managed to make it work without keystone. Since the 5040 as a motorized lens and is supposed to be super easy to set I didn't pay that much attention to it.

That said I currently have a 135" 16:9 screen (Max size for the width of the room) and my 2040 is at roughly 12ft at max zoom. I just looked at projector central calculator and It gives me 27ft 11" at 1x zoom for 135" 16:9  that can't be right?

What are your real life throws for 135" screens?


Thanks Chris


----------



## [email protected]

Monger said:


> Is there a secret to getting 4K HDR or is it disc dependent? I watched Spider-Man Homecoming and I get 1080p 10-bit 4:4:4 with Rec 709.


 I watched Spider-Man Homecoming this weekend too. I did get 4K, HDR, 12 bit, with BT2020 showing on my Epson 5040 ub (using HarperVision settings) coming from my Panasonic 900 uhd blu player. So I don't think it's a disk issue. Sounds like a setting issue.


----------



## [email protected]

The_Forth_Man said:


> Hey guys, Proud new owner of 5040ub here.
> 
> I'm coming from a 2040 (first projector) and wasn't looking to upgrade yet but the deal was to good to pass up so I ordered, Maybe a bit too quickly. While there is no doubt that it'll be a huge improvement I forgot to look at the projector placement option in details.
> 
> The 2040 was a pain in that regard and I managed to make it work without keystone. Since the 5040 as a motorized lens and is supposed to be super easy to set I didn't pay that much attention to it.
> 
> That said I currently have a 135" 16:9 screen (Max size for the width of the room) and my 2040 is at roughly 12ft at max zoom. I just looked at projector central calculator and It gives me 27ft 11" at 1x zoom for 135" 16:9  that can't be right?
> 
> What are your real life throws for 135" screens?
> 
> 
> Thanks Chris


The lens of my projector is about 16' from my 135" screen.


----------



## Boggle

The_Forth_Man said:


> Hey guys, Proud new owner of 5040ub here.
> 
> I'm coming from a 2040 (first projector) and wasn't looking to upgrade yet but the deal was to good to pass up so I ordered, Maybe a bit too quickly. While there is no doubt that it'll be a huge improvement I forgot to look at the projector placement option in details.
> 
> The 2040 was a pain in that regard and I managed to make it work without keystone. Since the 5040 as a motorized lens and is supposed to be super easy to set I didn't pay that much attention to it.
> 
> That said I currently have a 135" 16:9 screen (Max size for the width of the room) and my 2040 is at roughly 12ft at max zoom. I just looked at projector central calculator and It gives me 27ft 11" at 1x zoom for 135" 16:9  that can't be right?
> 
> What are your real life throws for 135" screens?
> 
> 
> Thanks Chris


you are reading it wrong, that is the max range. fiddle with the zoom slider. the 5040 needs 13'3" for a 135 screen.


----------



## old corps

spirithockey79 said:


> Any suggestions on where to find a cheap lamp for this pj? I saw a post a few pages back about $99 lamps but can’t find it anywhere. Still seeing them in the $200 range
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I also remember seeing a post re. Epson lowering the price of the 5040 & 4000 lamps to $99. Everywhere I look an authentic OEM is $299. Was the $99 price just plain wrong?  Thanks!


Ed


----------



## Dominic Chan

Hoosier72 said:


> I'll post as soon as I get the replacement up and running.


Any update on the replacement?


----------



## Lithium

Monger said:


> It’s listed as a known issue with the Samsung 8500 player I’m using and this pj in the OP, but I didn’t know if it had been corrected via firmware since and because this thread is so large I had started with that question. I have a tv connected to the same receiver that gets the correct output.
> 
> Also, the Amazon prime app sends 4K/24 HDR as expected using this player and pj, but Netflix and 4K blu rays have given me the issue as described in the OP.


I've posted about the K8500 a few times and I know it gets lost in the shuffle of the thread. It is a very capable player and one of the few that will correctly play Netflix 24fps @ 4k HDR. I have detailed the settings that you need in this reply here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-355.html#post54870898


----------



## Monger

Lithium said:


> I've posted about the K8500 a few times and I know it gets lost in the shuffle of the thread. It is a very capable player and one of the few that will correctly play Netflix 24fps @ 4k HDR. I have detailed the settings that you need in this reply here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-355.html#post54870898


Thanks! That’s what I was looking for. I needed to set deep color to auto and set my receivers video output from dual to only the projector. Strange that the Amazon App was the only one to work without issue.

Now both discs and Netflix both output correctly.


----------



## john barlow

Swapped out my first lamp with my 5040UB yesterday, the results were stunning. When my Panasonic PJ's were in need of replacement, you knew it. The Epson 5040's degradation was so gradual, as it is, I netted about double the normal operating life of the Panny lamp and that's very pleasing to me. The best part is the fact I Picked up the Epson replacement for $87. on Amazon makes this ordeal that much sweeter. I'm good to go now with very minimal financial pain. Love it! First disc in the Oppo 203 was my current reference UHD disc, Guardians of the Galaxy vol. 2. Amazing and dazzling with a brand new bulb. The detail and depth almost make the 4K disc that I got in the exclusive steelbook that I bought from BB appear to be almost 3D. IN fact, the 3D PQ is inferior to the 4K disc. I'm betting it's just a matter of a few years and there will be consumer displays that handle 3d sans glasses.


----------



## Juiced46

john barlow said:


> Swapped out my first lamp with my 5040UB yesterday, the results were stunning. When my Panasonic PJ's were in need of replacement, you knew it. The Epson 5040's degradation was so gradual, as it is, I netted about double the normal operating life of the Panny lamp and that's very pleasing to me. The best part is the fact I Picked up the Epson replacement for $87. on Amazon makes this ordeal that much sweeter. I'm good to go now with very minimal financial pain. Love it! First disc in the Oppo 203 was my current reference UHD disc, Guardians of the Galaxy vol. 2. Amazing and dazzling with a brand new bulb. The detail and depth almost make the 4K disc that I got in the exclusive steelbook that I bought from BB appear to be almost 3D. IN fact, the 3D PQ is inferior to the 4K disc. I'm betting it's just a matter of a few years and there will be consumer displays that handle 3d sans glasses.



I am assuming this is not an OEM lamp lamp for that price?


----------



## john barlow

Juiced46 said:


> I am assuming itnis not an OEM lamp.


It was an Epson lamp and the exact lamp I pulled out of my 5040. It's the real deal and I'm quite happy with it so far.


----------



## Juiced46

john barlow said:


> It was an Epson lamp and the exact lamp I pulled out of my 5040. It's the real deal and I'm quite happy with it so far.


Many aftermarket places use the OE housing and put a different bulb in it. Did it have an Epson label on the box that you had to break the seal? Do you have the amazon link? If its legit Ill buy one.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

[email protected] said:


> The lens of my projector is about 16' from my 135" screen.





Boggle said:


> you are reading it wrong, that is the max range. fiddle with the zoom slider. the 5040 needs 13'3" for a 135 screen.


Thanks, the epson calculator confirms this.

I'll have to make it work it's gonna be a challenge for the WAF.



I've started doing a lot of reading in this very big thread, and I'm so far behind since my only other display is 7 yrs plasma this is my first 4k-ish capable display so I dont have any 4k or HDR capable device yet.There seems to be a lot more things to consider than when I bought my last PJ the color setup for one and the whole 4k HDR mess.

I dont mind reading and dont need everything served on a platter but there are so much infos that my head started spinning if someone could point me in the right direction it be great. 

I should pick up the pace real quick.

So that said guess I'll just ask what seems to be the consensus in this area?

Is the first post up to date regarding the 4k HDR devices.

My main sources are currently Netflix, PLEX and Blu-rays. As for gaming I always been more inclined towards playstation. Is there a real added benefit on going pro over regular 1080+hdr and upscaling?

I currently have apple Tv 3rd gen and ps3 and just bought the Denon AVR x4300.


Thanks again.

P.S. Sorry about the questions I'm usually a really thorough guy and do a LOT of research when I make a buy like this. I made the move real fast this time and I'm kind of freaking out!!


----------



## Jcniper

Boggle said:


> you are reading it wrong, that is the max range. fiddle with the zoom slider. the 5040 needs 13'3" for a 135 screen.


Zoom slider? is this on the projector?


----------



## bukiwhitey

Jcniper said:


> Zoom slider? is this on the projector?


He is talking about the zoom slider in the projector calculator i believe.


----------



## bukiwhitey

Product link please. For the Amazon lamp.


----------



## Jcniper

bukiwhitey said:


> He is talking about the zoom slider in the projector calculator i believe.


This intrigued me because I have 13ft. and wanted to fit a 135 inch screen. I settled for 120 inches. Is 135 inches possible at 13 ft.?


----------



## bukiwhitey

Jcniper said:


> This intrigued me because I have 13ft. and wanted to fit a 135 inch screen. I settled for 120 inches. Is 135 inches possible at 13 ft.?


It looks like you need 13'3" for a 135" 16x9 diagonal screen


----------



## jpgfontes

john barlow said:


> Swapped out my first lamp with my 5040UB yesterday, the results were stunning. When my Panasonic PJ's were in need of replacement, you knew it. The Epson 5040's degradation was so gradual, as it is, I netted about double the normal operating life of the Panny lamp and that's very pleasing to me. The best part is the fact I Picked up the Epson replacement for $87. on Amazon makes this ordeal that much sweeter. I'm good to go now with very minimal financial pain. Love it! First disc in the Oppo 203 was my current reference UHD disc, Guardians of the Galaxy vol. 2. Amazing and dazzling with a brand new bulb. The detail and depth almost make the 4K disc that I got in the exclusive steelbook that I bought from BB appear to be almost 3D. IN fact, the 3D PQ is inferior to the 4K disc. I'm betting it's just a matter of a few years and there will be consumer displays that handle 3d sans glasses.


How many hours did you get with the first lamp?


----------



## john barlow

jpgfontes said:


> How many hours did you get with the first lamp?


 Almost 4000. I could have left the lamp in longer but, in case the new lamp I ordered was defective, I swapped them out yesterday. With the old lamp nearing 4000 hours, I could still dial in a great picture on Blu ray, both the 1080p and UHD discs, with HDR were looking good. Needless to say, I instantly was treated to a very vibrant and bright new lamp. $87., a great savings. Nothing but pleasant experiences thus far with our Epson 5040UB projector. Very happy with this bargain of the year, AFAIC.


----------



## john barlow

Juiced46 said:


> Many aftermarket places use the OE housing and put a different bulb in it. Did it have an Epson label on the box that you had to break the seal? Do you have the amazon link? If its legit Ill buy one.


 It's an new Epson, model number checks out, paperwork looks legit and picture is fantastic. Being my third projector in 7 1/2 years, I can tell the difference. I bought from a pretty reliable dealer. I'm not going to give out anymore details. There were a few sellers offering huge discounts on this lamp. It pays to be diligent and I watch the sales all the time. I had my eyes glued to the net for about six weeks and finally the price came down.


----------



## inspector

Monger said:


> Is there a secret to getting 4K HDR or is it disc dependent? I watched Spider-Man Homecoming and I get 1080p 10-bit 4:4:4 with Rec 709.



Just use Dave Harpers/Oledurt settings!


----------



## BiggNewt

I have an Xbox One S, that can't properly get HDR according to this thread. However, it appears the consensus is that Harper Vision settings look better than HDR.

I'm awaiting my 5040UB to arrive and am just wondering if I'll be fine with the One S and HarperVision settings as opposed to buying a new UHD player like the Samsung or Sony just to get HDR? 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

john barlow said:


> It's an new Epson, model number checks out, paperwork looks legit and picture is fantastic. Being my third projector in 7 1/2 years, I can tell the difference. I bought from a pretty reliable dealer. I'm not going to give out anymore details. There were a few sellers offering huge discounts on this lamp. It pays to be diligent and I watch the sales all the time. I had my eyes glued to the net for about six weeks and finally the price came down.


I do not understand why this needs to be kept secret and you cannot share the info to help out other forum members? 

Can you post a picture of the box that it came in? I am not totally doubting you, but the wording in most of these online sellers makes it seem as it is OEM. The bulb housing will appear OEM because it uses the OEM housing. However, if it doesn't come in a genuine Epson labeled box, it is not OEM from Epson. Does the box look like this? If not, it is an aftermarket bulb.


----------



## Juiced46

BiggNewt said:


> I have an Xbox One S, that can't properly get HDR according to this thread. However, it appears the consensus is that Harper Vision settings look better than HDR.
> 
> I'm awaiting my 5040UB to arrive and am just wondering if I'll be fine with the One S and HarperVision settings as opposed to buying a new UHD player like the Samsung or Sony just to get HDR?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


HarperVision settings are indeed HDR.


----------



## BiggNewt

Juiced46 said:


> HarperVision settings are indeed HDR.


Great, not looking to have to make another purchase in getting a new UHD player. Already have to make the AVR upgrade to HDMI 2.0

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

BiggNewt said:


> Great, not looking to have to make another purchase in getting a new UHD player. Already have to make the AVR upgrade to HDMI 2.0
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


The Xbox One S will do HDR with UHD discs no problem, so no extra purchase there. It WILL NOT do 4K/HDR with the Netflix app, but it will with the Amazon Prime App. I quoted a reply I made a few days back about the HarperVision Settings since some people were confused, it is below. Basically, you are still getting an HDR signal, but you are manually selecting an SDR Dynamic Range when viewing HDR content. Once you get the projector and you are in the settings, it will make much more sense. 



Juiced46 said:


> I will try to explain the best as I can.
> 
> With Harpervision. Lets say you put in a UHD Disc. If you are setup correctly and outputting correctly to your projector without any sort of upscaling etc, your projector info should show you are getting an HDR signal. What you are doing with Harpervision is setting the Dynamic Range to SDR. That is all, you are not changing the SIGNAL to SDR, you are still receiving an HDR signal.
> 
> My point to my previous comment is. For people that say the colors are off or too dark. May NOT be getting a proper HDR signal to the projector and "assume" they are getting an HDR signal without verifying, simply because they inserted a UHD disc. Then they just set their Dynamic Range to HDR and it does not look right, because they do not have an HDR signal to begin with.
> 
> For example, play some SDR Blu Ray media. Set Dynamic Range to HDR, it looks terrible, naturally so, because you are not receiving an HDR signal. I feel alot of people that have issues may be experiencing this.
> 
> So in short. All Harpervision is, when you have a correct HDR signal being passed to the projector, you are setting Dynamic Range to SDR, you are not changing or altering the signal.
> 
> I hope this makes sense.


----------



## BiggNewt

Juiced46 said:


> The Xbox One S will do HDR with UHD discs no problem, so no extra purchase there. It WILL NOT do 4K/HDR with the Netflix app, but it will with the Amazon Prime App. I quoted a reply I made a few days back about the HarperVision Settings since some people were confused, it is below. Basically, you are still getting an HDR signal, but you are manually selecting an SDR Dynamic Range when viewing HDR content. Once you get the projector and you are in the settings, it will make much more sense.


Gotcha, makes sense now. Hopefully the new Amazon Fire TV can do the 4K HDR on Netflix. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## bukiwhitey

I just wanted to thank Dave again for posting these settings. As more newcomers join the Epson 5040/6040 family, I think everyone should try these settings out at least once or twice. 








Dave Harper said:


> OK here are the settings, told in menu pictures mostly. I set the menu item to the specific mode it's in instead of AUTO so you can see what it is supposed to be and to make sure it's in that mode specifically to get the proper results. The most important settings are the gamma, contrast and setting it to SDR mode manually instead of HDR. (This is to simulate using a projector/display that isn't HDR capable, like the amazing LS10000, which I want to try this on and will post a similar post there in that thread):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings are, from left to right 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 16, 32.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Panasonic UB900 showing sending HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This puts the clip point for HDR specular highlights/whites at about 1200 nits. If I could've went higher on contrast I would've probably made that clipping point at about 1000 nits.
> 
> You may also want to adjust the color saturation some. That was the last thing I messed with very late last night (or should I say this morning!  ) so it may not be perfect, but it certainly made my jaw drop at that setting watching Ghostbusters!
> 
> If you have an SDR only display you can use an hdfury Linker to trick your source into sending its full HDR signal and then disable the HDR flag on its output to the display. I hope to try this on an LS10000. If anyone here has one or knows someone with one, please refer them here.
> 
> Enjoy and please feel free to tweak as needed and share your results.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

bukiwhitey said:


> I just wanted to thank Dave again for posting these settings. As more newcomers join the Epson 5040/6040 family, I think everyone should try these settings out at least once or twice.


hi there new comer here PJ should be here Friday, are those HDR calibration bases or ??


----------



## bukiwhitey

The_Forth_Man said:


> hi there new comer here PJ should be here Friday, are those HDR calibration bases or ??


Yes these are settings for using a 4k source. Works great with discs, Apple tv 4K, NVIDIA Shields etc. Basically anything that can output 4K HDR at 24hz will look awesome!


----------



## azula

Hello fellow AVers. i just got everything fired up for the first time and I hope i have a simple problem. How do I know if i'm getting an HDR signal from netflix through the shield? i set the shield to 23.976 Hz but i'm I don't think i'm getting HDR in netflix. When hovering over a title that is supposed to be HDR, it only says "HD". Thanks in advance!


----------



## nefrina

so i rolled the dice with a 2150 because it was on sale @ best buy for $200 off msrp. honestly it's amazing for the $, but it just can't do blacks. it gets close, but no dice. can the 5040 do blacks? i'm seeing 60,000:1 vs 1,000,000:1 between the two units. are there any other units besides the more expensive jvc i should consider? i'm bringing the 2150 back to bestbuy tomorrow for a refund. i'm thinking that i should just get the 5040.


----------



## jwhn

azula said:


> Hello fellow AVers. i just got everything fired up for the first time and I hope i have a simple problem. How do I know if i'm getting an HDR signal from netflix through the shield? i set the shield to 23.976 Hz but i'm I don't think i'm getting HDR in netflix. When hovering over a title that is supposed to be HDR, it only says "HD". Thanks in advance!




Make sure to set the color space to rec.2020 on the shield and Epson (or auto on the Epson). Go to the options in Netflix (the gear icon) and exit Netflix and restart it. If it still doesn't work try restarting the Shield.

The program information will read HDR when it's working.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

serith said:


> so i rolled the dice with a 2150 because it was on sale @ best buy for $200 off msrp. honestly it's amazing for the $, but it just can't do blacks. it gets close, but no dice. can the 5040 do blacks? i'm seeing 60,000:1 vs 1,000,000:1 between the two units. are there any other units besides the more expensive jvc i should consider? i'm bringing the 2150 back to bestbuy tomorrow for a refund. i'm thinking that i should just get the 5040.


How dark is your room?


----------



## JDG1

So I got the 5040 a week ago and got an RX-A1070 and the Apple TV 4K. Any advice on the best settings for this setup? The projector only does 4K SDR at 24kh. Projector is over watching position, so ECO is necessary. Thanks for any advice!


----------



## bukiwhitey

JDG1 said:


> So I got the 5040 a week ago and got an RX-A1070 and the Apple TV 4K. Any advice on the best settings for this setup? The projector only does 4K SDR at 24kh. Projector is over watching position, so ECO is necessary. Thanks for any advice!


What do you mean the projector only does 4KSDR at 24 hz? Have you tried manually changing the output on the Apple tv to 4k HDR 24hz.


On your apple tv go into settings, then audio/video, then manually set it to 4k HDR 24hz

I have the apple tv set up to output 4k HDR at 24 hz, and it works great with the 5040.


----------



## Dominic Chan

JDG1 said:


> So I got the 5040 a week ago and got an RX-A1070 and the Apple TV 4K. Any advice on the best settings for this setup? The projector only does 4K SDR at 24kh. Projector is over watching position, so ECO is necessary. Thanks for any advice!


The 5040ub will do 4K/60. See the first post in this thread for the list of supported modes.


----------



## carp

Juiced46 said:


> I do not understand why this needs to be kept secret and you cannot share the info to help out other forum members?
> 
> Can you post a picture of the box that it came in? I am not totally doubting you, but the wording in most of these online sellers makes it seem as it is OEM. The bulb housing will appear OEM because it uses the OEM housing. However, if it doesn't come in a genuine Epson labeled box, it is not OEM from Epson. Does the box look like this? If not, it is an aftermarket bulb.



Yeah, it's pretty weird. I PM'd him and he sent me a link to Mega Retail Store on Amazon but not to any replacement lamps. Maybe he sent the wrong link on accident but based on his posting on this thread I assume he just doesn't want to help anyone. That's why we are here right... to help each other out?  Otherwise, why post anything about the deal you found... other than to brag? Again, weird. 

If he accidentally sent me the wrong link then I apologize.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Does anyone use this mount with the 5040? Sanus Universal Projector Ceiling Mount (VMPR1-03)

I found conflicting reviews regarding the 5030 and was wondering if it fitted de 5040.

Thanks.


----------



## old corps

carp said:


> Yeah, it's pretty weird. I PM'd him and he sent me a link to Mega Retail Store on Amazon but not to any replacement lamps. Maybe he sent the wrong link on accident but based on his posting on this thread I assume he just doesn't want to help anyone. That's why we are here right... to help each other out?  Otherwise, why post anything about the deal you found... other than to brag? Again, weird.
> 
> If he accidentally sent me the wrong link then I apologize.


+2
I don't get it either. I've never seen anyone post something like this before and not let anyone else benefit from their find. Very strange.  Me thinks it's not an OEM.......
Ed


----------



## Lithium

The_Forth_Man said:


> Does anyone use this mount with the 5040? Sanus Universal Projector Ceiling Mount (VMPR1-03)
> 
> I found conflicting reviews regarding the 5030 and was wondering if it fitted de 5040.
> 
> Thanks.


I would avoid any type of universal mount with this projector. It's very heavy and you'll thank yourself for getting a custom plate that fits all the mount points perfectly.

The one I recommend and use is the Chief RPA357. It comes with a low profile mount (which can be extended with a common pipe fitting found at any big box store) and the custom plate that fits the Epson.


----------



## ayrton

carp said:


> Yeah, it's pretty weird. I PM'd him and he sent me a link to Mega Retail Store on Amazon but not to any replacement lamps. Maybe he sent the wrong link on accident but based on his posting on this thread I assume he just doesn't want to help anyone. That's why we are here right... to help each other out?  Otherwise, why post anything about the deal you found... other than to brag? Again, weird.
> 
> If he accidentally sent me the wrong link then I apologize.


I feel warm and fuzzy now that I know I have the OEM Spare lamp. Thanks for posting!!


----------



## Juiced46

carp said:


> Yeah, it's pretty weird. I PM'd him and he sent me a link to Mega Retail Store on Amazon but not to any replacement lamps. Maybe he sent the wrong link on accident but based on his posting on this thread I assume he just doesn't want to help anyone. That's why we are here right... to help each other out?  Otherwise, why post anything about the deal you found... other than to brag? Again, weird.
> 
> If he accidentally sent me the wrong link then I apologize.





old corps said:


> +2
> I don't get it either. I've never seen anyone post something like this before and not let anyone else benefit from their find. Very strange.  Me thinks it's not an OEM.......
> Ed


Yea, it is strange. Especially since he was replying quickly until I asked him to post a picture of the box or confirm the box looked like the one I posted. I would be amazed if it is OEM. If it is, good for him. But I am doubting it for the price, even on sale. I checked Amazon and the cheapest one is like $250 all the way up to $700 and no legit sellers. Only a few sellers are even selling that part #. 

Yes it works and looks good, but that does not mean it is OEM. I bought an aftermarket bulb for my older Epson. It looked great for about of month then died. The next one, same thing for a few months then got very dark. 

This is a forum to help out other members. Why even post you got this amazing deal to gloat about then not tell any details? Is he going to buy them all up at that price and resell? I just don't get some people.


----------



## jeffreybehr

*More on replacement bulb ELPLP69*

I had an 8700 several years and bougth 3 or 4 replacement bulbs. Not wanting to spend $300+ for Epson-brand bulbs, I bought some (3, I think) for about $35 each. All but one worked plenty-well enough; one didn't work at all and I had trouble getting a refund. Oh well...it was only $35.

I now have a 5040 (for a couple months and which I LOVE the looks of!) and have just read the notes on Epson-brand bulbs for around $99. Can't find any now, but I did find a reputable-looking outfit with replacement bulbs with 90-day warranty* for $43 plus $10 mailing. 

http://www.projectorlamps.com/epson...MI2rjCsuiM1wIVm7fACh1JcAhmEAAYAiAAEgIjE_D_BwE

So maybe I'll be taking the hit for fellow AVS-ists, but I ordered one. I'll be installing the replacement bulb soon, so I'll post more when I have info.


* An "180 days Extended Warranty" is $18. I don't know if that's a total of 180 days or 270 days; I did not buy it.


----------



## Juiced46

jeffreybehr said:


> I had an 8700 several years and bougth 3 or 4 replacement bulbs. Not wanting to spend $300+ for Epson-brand bulbs, I bought some (3, I think) for about $35 each. All but one worked plenty-well enough; one didn't work at all and I had trouble getting a refund. Oh well...it was only $35.
> 
> I now have a 5040 (for a couple months and which I LOVE the looks of!) and have just read the notes on Epson-brand bulbs for around $99. Can't find any now, but I did find a reputable-looking outfit with replacement bulbs with 90-day warranty* for $43 plus $10 mailing.
> 
> http://www.projectorlamps.com/epson...MI2rjCsuiM1wIVm7fACh1JcAhmEAAYAiAAEgIjE_D_BwE
> 
> So maybe I'll be taking the hit for fellow AVS-ists, but I ordered one. I'll be installing the replacement bulb soon, so I'll post more when I have info.
> 
> 
> * An "180 days Extended Warranty" is $18. I don't know if that's a total of 180 days or 270 days; I did not buy it.



If you bought the bulb in the link you posted, that is not for the 5040. 

I heard people talk about the $99 deal but I have not seen it anywhere.


----------



## jeffreybehr

Juiced46 said:


> If you bought the bulb in the link you posted, that is not for the 5040.
> 
> I heard people talk about the $99 deal but I have not seen it anywhere.


Oh you're so correct; TYVM. So much for my not paying enough attention to Search results.


----------



## carp

I used a replacement bulb for the Epson 8350 that worked just like the original lamp and lasted just as long (over 2000 hours). I called before I bought it, and was told that the housing was not OEM but the bulb itself was. I can't remember where I got it since it's been a few years, but I bet I could find it if I go looking.


----------



## carp

Ha, forgot to say that the replacement bulb was around $100.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Paid $91.26 9/24/2017 genuine ELPLP89 Epson bulb. AVSForum frowns on people posting such details so I'm cautious about posting a link but I'll say I just went to the same link and price now $246.49 so evidently that was a special even though not advertised as such so perhaps periodically monitor. I remember when they were selling around that price people were bragging how Epson lowered the MSRP of the bulb but when I looked on the Epson website the MSRP was still not reduced so glad I grabbed one before the prices went back up.


----------



## Azekecse

WynsWrld98 said:


> Paid $91.26 9/24/2017 genuine ELPLP89 Epson bulb. AVSForum frowns on people posting such details so I'm cautious about posting a link but I'll say I just went to the same link and price now $246.49 so evidently that was a special even though not advertised as such so perhaps periodically monitor. I remember when they were selling around that price people were bragging how Epson lowered the MSRP of the bulb but when I looked on the Epson website the MSRP was still not reduced so glad I grabbed one before the prices went back up.


Wow... I have a 6040UB which came with an extra bulb, but I thought for the price of


----------



## drhankz

Azekecse said:


> Wow... I have a 6040UB which came with an extra bulb, but I thought for the price of


----------



## Azekecse

drhankz said:


> I predict by the time you use your two bulbs, your projector will
> be out of date and you will be upgrading to the next new projector.


I certainly hope not Drhankz, but if I do at least I can throw in an extra bulb as a selling/marketing incentive :wink:

BTW, I did a google search and found an Epson 5040/6040 lamp for ~$105.00, but I doubt it's OEM.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Uppsalaing

*Chromecast Ultra*

Have any of you used the Chromecast Ultra with these Epson projectors?

I have one so I tried to see if I could get Netflix to do HDR on the Epson 9300W (euro version of 6040). I can get 4K/Ultra HD, but it seems that HDR is not an option given that the app sends 60hz.

However, I did have the HDR logo show up on the Netflix app (without the Ultra HD logo) when using the Wireless transmitter, but when I play content the signal still shows Rec. 709, 8 bit...

Now it only shows the Ultra HD logo...

Is there any way to set the Netflix app to send HDR in 1080p in a format that the projector can accept?


----------



## nowknown

Al O said:


> Setup - Living room, Elite white 1.1 gain fix frame 150" 16x9 screen.Window Blinds close, Curtains open. For movies I close both.


Which one of these screenshots are fake the Trump ones or CNN?


----------



## ScottAvery

Azekecse said:


> I certainly hope not Drhankz, but if I do at least I can throw in an extra bulb as a selling/marketing incentive :wink:
> 
> BTW, I did a google search and found an Epson 5040/6040 lamp for ~$105.00, but I doubt it's OEM.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


My guess is since the Epson site is out of stock, resellers are taking advantage and raising prices. Epson was selling the OEM lamp for $99 direct before it went out of stock.


----------



## WynsWrld98

ScottAvery said:


> My guess is since the Epson site is out of stock, resellers are taking advantage and raising prices. Epson was selling the OEM lamp for $99 direct before it went out of stock.


That wasn't true when I looked when I bought mine at $91, Epson site was $250+ I forget the exact price I saw. This was over a month ago.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Juiced46 said:


> Only a few sellers are even selling that part #.


There’s one on “the auction site”, item number 391875369715. 
It’s oem but used for 100 hours. $79, even accepting offers.


----------



## rick a

Can anyone recommend a good HDMI selector box to use with the UBE? I want to use everything with the wireless HDMI port. I have 4 or 5 things I want to hook up to it.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Alright so got a nice delivery at work yesterday afternoon. I must admits that I was quite shocked at the sheer size of it when I unboxed it next to my HC2040.

I just threw it on a table without removing the 2040 from the ceiling as I was too excited to finally see what UB meant. I did not have any 4k sources but I watched a couple of clips upscaled by my AVR (Denon X4300) the Pj was showing 4k in infos.

Then my wife came home from work. You have to know that my spouse was against me buying the 2040 2 years ago as she didn't see what we were missing just watching movie on our 51" plasma. I had to plea and then I found a really good deal with a 30 day back so she agreed and just fell in love with big screen at home.

Same thing happened with this buy. Why are we getting this? isn't the Pj we have good enough.... yadi yadi yada

So she came from work and in the theatre area first thing she said was damn that thing is huge how are we going to fit this in here then she turned around saw the image and said quote "wow thats cinema" followed by were gonna have to think of a new layout to fit that thing.

I even was thinking of selling my 2040 to a friend to finance part of my upgrade to get some WAF and she thought about it and finally said It's paid keep it will use it upstairs and outside in the summer. You have to love the power of Front projection.
Every single one of my friends (except one weirdo) want to buy a Pj after seing just the 2040.

Enough about this I went to my local best buy today and bought :

Sony x800 / samsung k8500 / samsung m8500 / apple tv 4k / Roku Ultra 

I have them for 30 days so they will a be put to test and try to see witch one fits my needs the most and will return the rest.

If you guys want me to check something specific just ask I'll try my best.

Chris


----------



## jpgfontes

Uppsalaing said:


> Have any of you used the Chromecast Ultra with these Epson projectors?
> 
> I have one so I tried to see if I could get Netflix to do HDR on the Epson 9300W (euro version of 6040). I can get 4K/Ultra HD, but it seems that HDR is not an option given that the app sends 60hz.
> 
> However, I did have the HDR logo show up on the Netflix app (without the Ultra HD logo) when using the Wireless transmitter, but when I play content the signal still shows Rec. 709, 8 bit...
> 
> Now it only shows the Ultra HD logo...
> 
> Is there any way to set the Netflix app to send HDR in 1080p in a format that the projector can accept?


I use the chromecast ultra and as far as I know it is not possible to use HDR with it. With a 4k device, it only outputs 4k/60hz. There isn't support for 24hz still. 
On the other hand, I don't think setting it to 1080p would help with hdr even if possible. I set my PS4 to HDR and games play 1080p 60hz HDR. But when I launch the Netflix with the PS4, HDR doesn't show up. Just HD.
It would be great if google included 24hz support. This has been requested by lots of people since the first Chromecast. So far, only 50/60 hz though.


----------



## ayrton

rick a said:


> Can anyone recommend a good HDMI selector box to use with the UBE? I want to use everything with the wireless HDMI port. I have 4 or 5 things I want to hook up to it.


I believe the UBe wireless has 4 HDMI inputs. If you need more, you can get a 4K UHD switch to make up the rest.


----------



## Tup

OK, I have had an Epson 8500UB for about 8 years. I have a dedicated theater room with a 2.35:1 screen. Over the last few years I have found myself being lazy and not bothering to get up to manually adjust the zoom/shift to switch between 16:9 to the 2.35:1 and thus the motivation to go to the 5040UB. When the Epson refurb store had it on for $1954 Canadian, I couldn't resist. The refurb I received seems to be brand new. It came in a box that said certified refurb. The lamp counter said 0 hours. After I had it up and running doing my install and adjustments to where I was pretty happy I watched some content....very happy! I then decided to go into the service menu where it said total hours 3....on and offs 8. At this point my main menu info said 3 hours. So it seems pretty much brand new unless they can reset the master hour counter. 

The panel alignment option is great. My 8500UB was actually a refurb I had gotten to replace my original one that developed a pink band (polarizer?). It had had excellent convergence (better than the original) and had 7500 hours on it.

I have sifted through many of the posts but can someone point me to where the best settings would be for regular 1080p viewing? I don't have UHD capability right now.

For $1954 I couldn't be happier. The lens memory is great! From the small amount of viewing I have done, the picture seems to be an improvement over the 8500UB (which was a great projector!). Color seems to pop more and it is very bright (my old projectors bulb had over 2K hours it though so not a fair comparison).


----------



## rick a

ayrton said:


> I believe the UBe wireless has 4 HDMI inputs. If you need more, you can get a 4K UHD switch to make up the rest.


I guess my real issue was trying to use picture in picture with the wireless transmitter. I was trying to set it ups so I could use my PC for the small screen and have the game streaming from cbssports.com but maybe it's not possible unless I run a wire to the projector. On a side note, if you have Playstation Vue and a playstation 4, you can stream 3 different games at the same time. One will be in a large screen and the other 2 will be on the right side. It's like having an 80" TV on one side with 2 smaller TVs on the right. Really cool feature. I'm going for overkill with the PiP on the projector. lol


----------



## JDG1

Sorry I typed the wrong thing last night. I have the 5040 and the Apple TV 4K set to 4K HDR 24 hrz. Called Epson and was told the projector doesn’t support 4K HDR 60 hrz, and that it is a hardware limitation. That being said, i’m Looking for some settings that work with eco mode and HDR. Thanks, and sorry for my error last night.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Tup said:


> OK, I have had an Epson 8500UB for about 8 years. I have a dedicated theater room with a 2.35:1 screen. Over the last few years I have found myself being lazy and not bothering to get up to manually adjust the zoom/shift to switch between 16:9 to the 2.35:1 and thus the motivation to go to the 5040UB. When the Epson refurb store had it on for $1954 Canadian, I couldn't resist. The refurb I received seems to be brand new. It came in a box that said certified refurb. The lamp counter said 0 hours. After I had it up and running doing my install and adjustments to where I was pretty happy I watched some content....very happy! I then decided to go into the service menu where it said total hours 3....on and offs 8. At this point my main menu info said 3 hours. So it seems pretty much brand new unless they can reset the master hour counter.
> 
> The panel alignment option is great. My 8500UB was actually a refurb I had gotten to replace my original one that developed a pink band (polarizer?). It had had excellent convergence (better than the original) and had 7500 hours on it.
> 
> I have sifted through many of the posts but can someone point me to where the best settings would be for regular 1080p viewing? I don't have UHD capability right now.
> 
> For $1954 I couldn't be happier. The lens memory is great! From the small amount of viewing I have done, the picture seems to be an improvement over the 8500UB (which was a great projector!). Color seems to pop more and it is very bright (my old projectors bulb had over 2K hours it though so not a fair comparison).


Hi there, jumped on the same ship here that price made me make my move much quicker than anticipated. I too am at roughly 4 hours. What method did you use to get into the service menu? I tried the same one I used on my previous Pj and it didnt work.


Thx Chris


----------



## [email protected]

JDG1 said:


> Sorry I typed the wrong thing last night. I have the 5040 and the Apple TV 4K set to 4K HDR 24 hrz. Called Epson and was told the projector doesn’t support 4K HDR 60 hrz, and that it is a hardware limitation. That being said, i’m Looking for some settings that work with eco mode and HDR. Thanks, and sorry for my error last night.


Go to post 10858 from ht guy and download the attachment. He has ECO HDR settings aS well as others.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Tup said:


> For $1954 I couldn't be happier. The lens memory is great! From the small amount of viewing I have done, the picture seems to be an improvement over the 8500UB (which was a great projector!). Color seems to pop more and it is very bright (my old projectors bulb had over 2K hours it though so not a fair comparison).


I too bought one at that price. I'm seeing some serious judders in panning shots. Turning on Frame Interpolation helps sometimes, but unfortunately also makes things worse sometimes (e.g., subtitles, slow panning shots). Will play with the settings some more to see if I can minimize that.


----------



## mohmony

The_Forth_Man said:


> Alright so got a nice delivery at work yesterday afternoon. I must admits that I was quite shocked at the sheer size of it when I unboxed it next to my HC2040.
> 
> 
> 
> I just threw it on a table without removing the 2040 from the ceiling as I was too excited to finally see what UB meant. I did not have any 4k sources but I watched a couple of clips upscaled by my AVR (Denon X4300) the Pj was showing 4k in infos.
> 
> 
> 
> Then my wife came home from work. You have to know that my spouse was against me buying the 2040 2 years ago as she didn't see what we were missing just watching movie on our 51" plasma. I had to plea and then I found a really good deal with a 30 day back so she agreed and just fell in love with big screen at home.
> 
> 
> 
> Same thing happened with this buy. Why are we getting this? isn't the Pj we have good enough.... yadi yadi yada
> 
> 
> 
> So she came from work and in the theatre area first thing she said was damn that thing is huge how are we going to fit this in here then she turned around saw the image and said quote "wow thats cinema" followed by were gonna have to think of a new layout to fit that thing.
> 
> 
> 
> I even was thinking of selling my 2040 to a friend to finance part of my upgrade to get some WAF and she thought about it and finally said It's paid keep it will use it upstairs and outside in the summer. You have to love the power of Front projection.
> 
> Every single one of my friends (except one weirdo) want to buy a Pj after seing just the 2040.
> 
> 
> 
> Enough about this I went to my local best buy today and bought :
> 
> 
> 
> Sony x800 / samsung k8500 / samsung m8500 / apple tv 4k / Roku Ultra
> 
> 
> 
> I have them for 30 days so they will a be put to test and try to see witch one fits my needs the most and will return the rest.
> 
> 
> 
> If you guys want me to check something specific just ask I'll try my best.
> 
> 
> 
> Chris




How significant is the difference between 2040 Vs 5040UB?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tup

The_Forth_Man said:


> Hi there, jumped on the same ship here that price made me make my move much quicker than anticipated. I too am at roughly 4 hours. What method did you use to get into the service menu? I tried the same one I used on my previous Pj and it didnt work.
> 
> 
> Thx Chris


To get into service menu to see total hours:

Hold menu for 8 seconds

Press Esc 2x

Press right arrow then left arrow

Window should then pop up.


----------



## Tup

Dominic Chan said:


> I too bought one at that price. I'm seeing some serious judders in panning shots. Turning on Frame Interpolation helps sometimes, but unfortunately also makes things worse sometimes (e.g., subtitles, slow panning shots). Will play with the settings some more to see if I can minimize that.


I saw some judder when panning with one satellite station feed. Paused and tried different settings....enhancement off, FI on different amounts. Still there but I think it was the source as I watched some sports and other content with no judder. I will keep an eye out though. I also upgraded to the newest firmware as mine came with 1.09 and the newest is 1.10.

Color uniformity on a pure white screen seems perfect!


----------



## inspector

I have the 6040 and bought a Samsung 3D/4K K8500 player to go with it. Didn't know about the REGION FREE 3D/4K K8500 until last week. So I bought the Samsung REGION FREE 3D K5700 player for my 3D UK discs.


Also bought a Monoprice splitter that should do the trick. Now have to get my remote reprogrammed for the splitter.


Also, buying 2 definitive SR 9040 speakers so I can finally have 7.1.


----------



## Uppsalaing

jpgfontes said:


> I use the chromecast ultra and as far as I know it is not possible to use HDR with it. With a 4k device, it only outputs 4k/60hz. There isn't support for 24hz still.
> On the other hand, I don't think setting it to 1080p would help with hdr even if possible. I set my PS4 to HDR and games play 1080p 60hz HDR. But when I launch the Netflix with the PS4, HDR doesn't show up. Just HD.
> It would be great if google included 24hz support. This has been requested by lots of people since the first Chromecast. So far, only 50/60 hz though.


Thanks... I think I'll get a UHD disc player next and will keep using my Apple TV for streaming.


----------



## shazza6887

I am sorry if this has been answered a million times however i want to know what would be the best way for me to run Kodi on my nvidia shield? Do i i set the device to standard 1920x1080 59.. or 60hz refresh rec 709 or do i set it to 4k? res. My understanding is that this device can not truly display the HDR content? When i set the nvidia shield to its native 4k resolution i get 12bit 4.2.2 i think max 30hz, but there is no 4k encahcement feature. Am i better off leaving it at 1080 and playing the 4k content at that res and letting the projector downscale it and put say HDR1 option on and enable rec2020?

Sorry if the question is a bit confusing. 

Regards


----------



## Uppsalaing

shazza6887 said:


> ... When i set the nvidia shield to its native 4k resolution i get 12bit 4.2.2 i think max 30hz, but there is no 4k encahcement feature. ...


When the projector receives a 4K signal then it displays it in 4k, i.e. the 4K "enhancement" feature is unavailable because it is showing the 4K signal. It isn't upscaling a 1080p signal. If you walk up to the screen you will see that it is using the higher resolution.


----------



## SethMan919

Who has upgraded from a 5030ub? I'm very much on the fence. I've been wanting to upgrade for a while and some of the features like power lens shift and zoom might make it worth it even without the eShift. 

My theater is fully light controlled with an Elite Screens 130" . Anyone make the upgrade and can comment? Also been looking a the optoma UHD65, but the limited lens shift kind of scares me.


----------



## bukiwhitey

azula said:


> Hello fellow AVers. i just got everything fired up for the first time and I hope i have a simple problem. How do I know if i'm getting an HDR signal from netflix through the shield? i set the shield to 23.976 Hz but i'm I don't think i'm getting HDR in netflix. When hovering over a title that is supposed to be HDR, it only says "HD". Thanks in advance!


When you are playing a HDR source from netflix, you should be able to go into your Epson projector info screen and see color format as BT.2020 HDR.

Make sure the Shield is set to output at 4K 24hz


----------



## Buckeye Dave

For use with this projector, does the Shield or the ATV4K have an advantage(s) over the other?

I am looking to purchase one and thought you all could give me some insight first.


----------



## Brajesh

Hey all, joining the club w/a refurb 5040UB (fingers crossed). Two questions:

I see Chief RPA357 mount recommended, but it's kinda pricey at $170. Also see the cheaper Vega mount off Amazon for $50 recommended; has this worked out fine for those who bought it? Any other mount options?
Are @Dave Harper's settings the ones to use? ISF settings can vary from PJ unit to unit, so wondering if these settings have on the whole worked out for most here, especially [email protected] & 60, and HDR.
Thanks.


----------



## bukiwhitey

Buckeye Dave said:


> For use with this projector, does the Shield or the ATV4K have an advantage(s) over the other?
> 
> I am looking to purchase one and thought you all could give me some insight first.


Both are capable of 4k HDR at 24hz output. Both work really well with the Epson. It would depend on which content provider you prefer. If you primarily use Vudu and have little to no Itunes content then the shield wins, if you have Itunes content or would like to go the Itunes route then go with the ATV.


----------



## Uppsalaing

Buckeye Dave said:


> For use with this projector, does the Shield or the ATV4K have an advantage(s) over the other?
> 
> I am looking to purchase one and thought you all could give me some insight first.


I _rent_ a lot of movies on itunes, so that's what I'll get. i try not to buy many as I don't want to be locked into anyone's system and I prefer discs anyway.


----------



## kibe29

The_Forth_Man said:


> Alright so got a nice delivery at work yesterday afternoon. I must admits that I was quite shocked at the sheer size of it when I unboxed it next to my HC2040.
> 
> I just threw it on a table without removing the 2040 from the ceiling as I was too excited to finally see what UB meant. I did not have any 4k sources but I watched a couple of clips upscaled by my AVR (Denon X4300) the Pj was showing 4k in infos.
> 
> Then my wife came home from work. You have to know that my spouse was against me buying the 2040 2 years ago as she didn't see what we were missing just watching movie on our 51" plasma. I had to plea and then I found a really good deal with a 30 day back so she agreed and just fell in love with big screen at home.
> 
> Same thing happened with this buy. Why are we getting this? isn't the Pj we have good enough.... yadi yadi yada
> 
> So she came from work and in the theatre area first thing she said was damn that thing is huge how are we going to fit this in here then she turned around saw the image and said quote "wow thats cinema" followed by were gonna have to think of a new layout to fit that thing.
> 
> I even was thinking of selling my 2040 to a friend to finance part of my upgrade to get some WAF and she thought about it and finally said It's paid keep it will use it upstairs and outside in the summer. You have to love the power of Front projection.
> Every single one of my friends (except one weirdo) want to buy a Pj after seing just the 2040.
> 
> Enough about this I went to my local best buy today and bought :
> 
> Sony x800 / samsung k8500 / samsung m8500 / apple tv 4k / Roku Ultra
> 
> I have them for 30 days so they will a be put to test and try to see witch one fits my needs the most and will return the rest.
> 
> If you guys want me to check something specific just ask I'll try my best.
> 
> Chris


Is the fan noise much quieter than the 2040? Mine is distracting on eco mode anytime it's quieter , and regular mode it's unusable due to noise.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


----------



## rdlightning01

How does this projector compare to the uhd60? Have the UHD 60 now and wondering if id be better off with the epson, moderatly lit living room.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Tup said:


> To get into service menu to see total hours:
> 
> Hold menu for 8 seconds
> 
> Press Esc 2x
> 
> Press right arrow then left arrow
> 
> Window should then pop up.


Thanks!!



mohmony said:


> How significant is the difference between 2040 Vs 5040UB?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Pretty huge in my room! Like all other Pj contrast will be lost in ambient light but so far (only 4h) it seems really good! I'll log a couple more hours on it while testing the gear I got and take some pictures from both. I have a decent camera on hand so difference should show in pictures.



kibe29 said:


> Is the fan noise much quieter than the 2040? Mine is distracting on eco mode anytime it's quieter , and regular mode it's unusable due to noise.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk



So far it "seems" like the 5040 I got is quieter than the 2040 but since my 2040 is still on the ceiling over head and the 5040 is behind us its not really fair. I'll try and take some readings over the week end.


----------



## WynsWrld98

SethMan919 said:


> Who has upgraded from a 5030ub? I'm very much on the fence. I've been wanting to upgrade for a while and some of the features like power lens shift and zoom might make it worth it even without the eShift.
> 
> My theater is fully light controlled with an Elite Screens 130" . Anyone make the upgrade and can comment? Also been looking a the optoma UHD65, but the limited lens shift kind of scares me.


Me. I absolutely love the 5040. I have a CIH setup and the lens memory is just fantastic to switch between 16:9 and 2.4:1 vs. having to do all of it manually. For some reason the image I'm getting just looks more clean even from Dish Network. The only thing I can attribute it to is they supposedly redesigned the lens and it's better quality the 5030 lens. Because I don't use the 4K upscaling with 1080p and lower signals I don't see a difference and prefer to have the option of using Frame Interpolation which gets locked out if you engage 4K upscaling with 1080p signals -- so the 4K upscaling feature isn't used by me for 1080p and below signals giving it a more head to head comparison with the 5030.

What does scare me about the 5040 is I see a lot of reports of power supply failures. That could mean unexpectedly losing all of your settings (if you didn't take screen shots of them) if you use their swap program. Personally if it happens to me I'd likely choose the option indicating I want my unit repaired to not have to go through losing settings and possibly getting an out of convergence projector in the swap, dead pixel(s), etc.


----------



## riddle

Hi, i realy needs some advice. Yesterday i bought my new projector Epson TW9300W/5040ub and when i try plug all cable together in this setup i dont see no pictures:


1)Nvidia Shiled TV->Onkyo 646->Darbee 5100->HDMI2 Epson projector
but

2)Nvidia Shiled TV->Onkyo 646-> HDMI2 Epson projector (withou Darbee 5100 all works)




I set video output at Nvidia Shield on 1080p 60Hz


On my old Epson projector all works perfekt… 

Thanks for help…


----------



## dimi123

SethMan919 said:


> Who has upgraded from a 5030ub? I'm very much on the fence. I've been wanting to upgrade for a while and some of the features like power lens shift and zoom might make it worth it even without the eShift.


I was ''forced'' to upgrade to the 9300W (5040/6040) when the optical block of my 9200W (5030/6030) failed after 3 years of usage. I was really happy with the 9200, but the 9300 is on a whole new level. It has a much better glass lens (plastic on the 9200) due to which focus and sharpness are really outstanding, much better than on my 9200. My only disappointment is with Frame Interpolation. On the 9200 I was using it all the time on ''Low'' without it ever being obtrusive. On the 9300 it's unusable even on ''Low'', as it introduces to much artifacts. Nevertheless I'm so happy with the 9300 that I even bought a second one as a back up option.


----------



## ht guy

Tup said:


> ...I have sifted through many of the posts but can someone point me to where the best settings would be for regular 1080p viewing? I don't have UHD capability right now...





JDG1 said:


> ...That being said, i’m Looking for some settings that work with eco mode and HDR. Thanks, and sorry for my error last night.


Here you go.

1080p User settings on page 4, UHD on pages 1, 2 and 3.

...file deleted. Latest version is here.


----------



## Dominic Chan

dimi123 said:


> My only disappointment is with Frame Interpolation. On the 9200 I was using it all the time on ''Low'' without it ever being obtrusive. On the 9300 it's unusable even on ''Low'', as it introduces to much artifacts.


Did you end up turning it off? I’m very sensitive to judder and find it hard to watch many shows because of this.


----------



## Juiced46

SethMan919 said:


> Who has upgraded from a 5030ub? I'm very much on the fence. I've been wanting to upgrade for a while and some of the features like power lens shift and zoom might make it worth it even without the eShift.
> 
> My theater is fully light controlled with an Elite Screens 130" . Anyone make the upgrade and can comment? Also been looking a the optoma UHD65, but the limited lens shift kind of scares me.



I upgraded from a 5025, which is essentially a 5030. I feel the upgrade was worth it. Brighter, better colors, better blacks, 4K and HDR is a huge bonus. If you are only watching cable TV, the upgrade may not be worth it. But for everything else, absolutely. The image blows away the 5025/5030 IMO. 

Only real con for me is the size of the unit. I have mine shelf mounted and I want to move it back which due to the size will make it difficult for me. 




Dominic Chan said:


> There’s one on “the auction site”, item number 391875369715.
> It’s oem but used for 100 hours. $79, even accepting offers.


I saw that, they had 2 they claimed had "100 hours" I am skeptical about that because there is no way to prove it has that or 1000 hours on it.


----------



## Juiced46

Brajesh said:


> Hey all, joining the club w/a refurb 5040UB (fingers crossed). Two questions:
> 
> I see Chief RPA357 mount recommended, but it's kinda pricey at $170. Also see the cheaper Vega mount off Amazon for $50 recommended; has this worked out fine for those who bought it? Any other mount options?
> Are @Dave Harper's settings the ones to use? ISF settings can vary from PJ unit to unit, so wondering if these settings have on the whole worked out for most here, especially [email protected] & 60, and HDR.
> Thanks.


I run both of Dave Harpers settings and also Oledurts. I think it comes down to personal preference. They both look good IMO, but both have a different look to them. Your best bet is. Input their settings into your projector and save them in the Memory slots. Switch between them and see which you like the best. I used their settings and just made small tweaks to brightness and contrast to compliment my particular setup and I am very happy with how it came out. 

The only downside to the HarperVision settings is that he runs the bulb on High which turns the fan on full speed. For me, its not a huge deal because my sound system drowns it out.


----------



## dimi123

Dominic Chan said:


> Did you end up turning it off? I’m very sensitive to judder and find it hard to watch many shows because of this.


Yes, I have Frame Interpolation permanently disabled. I can't stand the soap opera effect. On my unit judder is only occasionally visible and not distracting at all. I don't know why Epson chose to implement such aggressive settings, when those on the previous generation were perfect.


----------



## john barlow

Brajesh said:


> Hey all, joining the club w/a refurb 5040UB (fingers crossed). Two questions:
> I see Chief RPA357 mount recommended, but it's kinda pricey at $170. Also see the cheaper Vega mount off Amazon for $50 recommended; has this worked out fine for those who bought it? Any other mount options?
> Are @*Dave Harper*'s settings the ones to use? ISF settings can vary from PJ unit to unit, so wondering if these settings have on the whole worked out for most here, especially [email protected] & 60, and HDR.
> Thanks.


 Try B&H in NYC. I bough a Chief mount there for fifty bucks. Can you build a shelf for it on your back wall?That's what I did and I prefer it to upside down from a mount.


----------



## BiggNewt

bukiwhitey said:


> Both are capable of 4k HDR at 24hz output. Both work really well with the Epson. It would depend on which content provider you prefer. If you primarily use Vudu and have little to no Itunes content then the shield wins, if you have Itunes content or would like to go the Itunes route then go with the ATV.


Netflix outputs at 24hz as well?


----------



## bukiwhitey

BiggNewt said:


> Netflix outputs at 24hz as well?


Yes, Netflix works great at 24hz.


----------



## ayrton

Juiced46 said:


> I saw that, they had 2 they claimed had "100 hours" I am skeptical about that because there is no way to prove it has that or 1000 hours on it.


I saw in a post in the last few days on how to get into the "Service Menu" on this PJ. That will show total hours on unit regardless of resets..


----------



## Juiced46

ayrton said:


> I saw in a post in the last few days on how to get into the "Service Menu" on this PJ. That will show total hours on unit regardless of resets..



I know that. But the original post was about used bulbs being sold on the internet claiming they have 100 hours. They are selling a bulb, not a whole unit. There is no way to tell if the used bulb you buy has 100hrs, 0 jours or 1000 hrs.


----------



## CrocDoc

*Questions about the 5040*

Hi Guys,
I have a few questions about the 5040 to see if it is worth me upgrading from an Epson 5010E. My 5010e is on a custom “shelf” mount because of the known issues with the 5010 being mounted inverted. This explains the issue- _The Epson tech I talked to admitted that the 5010 has issues with being upside down with convergence and lens shift creating some blurring._

Does the 5040 have any issues with ceiling mounted (inverted) with convergence or lens shift?

I have a pretty ridiculous sound system that shakes my 5010 and requires me to readjust the lens shift ever so slightly because it falls about 1” on my screen sometimes. My projector is mounted to the floor joists with rubber vibration isolators so the shaking is more of the house shaking the projector. Since the 5010 lens shift and focus are manual, has anyone noticed anything being shaken out of adjustment with the 5040? The idea of not having to get a ladder out to readjust is enough for me to want to get the 5040.

The other question I have is about the: *“Native Resolution: Native 1080p (1920 x 1080) with 4K Enhancement*
Maybe my ignorance, but if this is a 4k projector, shouldn’t the native resolution be 2160p like you see on the 4k TV’s?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Juiced46 said:


> I know that. But the original post was about used bulbs being sold on the internet claiming they have 100 hours. They are selling a bulb, not a whole unit. There is no way to tell if the used bulb you buy has 100hrs, 0 jours or 1000 hrs.


I would expect the brightness to be reduced at 1000 hours.


----------



## nefrina

Uppsalaing said:


> How dark is your room?


100% light controlled basement room (no windows). i returned my white screen because it had a defect in it and got a silver ticket grey screen instead which has dramatically improved the black levels, but i'm still torn whether or not to return the 2150 and put the $ towards a 5040 whenever it goes on sale again.


----------



## Juiced46

Dominic Chan said:


> I would expect the brightness to be reduced at 1000 hours.


It is possible, but you also have nothing to compare it to unless its blatantly obvious. Still no guarantee those bulbs have 100 hours. There is just no way to tell. I would rather pay more for a new one.


----------



## jaychatbonneau

What are the chances of pixel shift being activated for 3D via firmware update? I think the lack of pixel shift in 3D is a major drawback.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Juiced46 said:


> It is possible, but you also have nothing to compare it to unless its blatantly obvious. Still no guarantee those bulbs have 100 hours. There is just no way to tell. I would rather pay more for a new one.


I will compare that lamp with the one I currently have, which has less than 100 hours. A light meter will readily tell me if there’s any significant difference; if so, I will return it.


----------



## WynsWrld98

jaychatbonneau said:


> What are the chances of pixel shift being activated for 3D via firmware update? I think the lack of pixel shift in 3D is a major drawback.


I turned pixel shift on and off with 1080p sources and really couldn't tell a difference. You're seeing a significant difference with pixel shift with 1080p sources?


----------



## Tup

WynsWrld98 said:


> I turned pixel shift on and off with 1080p sources and really couldn't tell a difference. You're seeing a significant difference with pixel shift with 1080p sources?


I often see a difference. It seems when I pause it doesn't look quite as good. I assume this might be the effect from the active pixel shift.


----------



## jaychatbonneau

WynsWrld98 said:


> I turned pixel shift on and off with 1080p sources and really couldn't tell a difference. You're seeing a significant difference with pixel shift with 1080p sources?


I see the difference very clearly.


----------



## Uppsalaing

WynsWrld98 said:


> I turned pixel shift on and off with 1080p sources and really couldn't tell a difference. You're seeing a significant difference with pixel shift with 1080p sources?


It depends how close you sit to your screen and how large it is... I can barely make out the different at my seating distance when in the menus, but when watching an actual movie I can't.


----------



## Brajesh

Reading about the Chief RPA357 mount in this thread, I'm a little confused. Only seeing this for order for $170 at bhphoto & Crutchfield. Is this all I need to mount 5040UB to ceiling, or do I also need the Chief plate that attaches to the projector?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Brajesh said:


> Reading about the Chief RPA357 mount in this thread, I'm a little confused. Only seeing this for order for $170 at bhphoto & Crutchfield. Is this all I need to mount 5040UB to ceiling, or do I also need the Chief plate that attaches to the projector?


The Chief ”mount” is only the part that attaches to the projector. You also need a ceiling plate (that attaches to the ceiling), and an extension column that joins the plate and the mount, unless you buy a plate that includes the column/extension.

EDIT: It is possible to mount the RPA directly to the ceiling, but you won't be able to adjust the "yaw", and the other adjustments are also very difficult due to the tight clearance from the ceiling.


----------



## Uppsalaing

serith said:


> 100% light controlled basement room (no windows). i returned my white screen because it had a defect in it and got a silver ticket grey screen instead which has dramatically improved the black levels, but i'm still torn whether or not to return the 2150 and put the $ towards a 5040 whenever it goes on sale again.


I think in a dark (darker walls & ceiling), light controlled room you will be able to see the difference between projectors... I don't know the 2150, so can't compare them for you.

I don't know what the price differences are and how often/soon you'd feel like upgrading... Budget decisions are very personal.


----------



## riddle

riddle said:


> Hi, i realy needs some advice. Yesterday i bought my new projector Epson TW9300W/5040ub and when i try plug all cable together in this setup i dont see no pictures:
> 
> 
> 1)Nvidia Shiled TV->Onkyo 646->Darbee 5100->HDMI2 Epson projector
> but
> 
> 2)Nvidia Shiled TV->Onkyo 646-> HDMI2 Epson projector (withou Darbee 5100 all works)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I set video output at Nvidia Shield on 1080p 60Hz
> 
> 
> On my old Epson projector all works perfekt…
> 
> Thanks for help…


Does some one know how to fix it?


----------



## Lithium

Brajesh said:


> Reading about the Chief RPA357 mount in this thread, I'm a little confused. Only seeing this for order for $170 at bhphoto & Crutchfield. Is this all I need to mount 5040UB to ceiling, or do I also need the Chief plate that attaches to the projector?


I have explained the Chief RPA357 here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-364.html#post54927984

It includes all you need to mount it 'low profile'. Only if you need an extension will additional parts be required.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Lithium said:


> I personally went with the Chief RPA357. It includes a low profile ceiling mount plus the custom bracket that fits the Epson. It's not the easiest to adjust on the fly because of the tight clearance.


It's much easier to install and adjust, when used with an extension column (essentially a 1-1/2" piece of pipe). With a large projectors like the JVCs or the 5040UB, it's very difficult to get at the pitch and roll adjustment screws or tighten the thumb nuts if mounted directly to the ceiling. And essentially impossible to adjust the yaw, if necessary.


----------



## john barlow

CrocDoc said:


> Hi Guys,
> I have a few questions about the 5040 to see if it is worth me upgrading from an Epson 5010E. My 5010e is on a custom “shelf” mount because of the known issues with the 5010 being mounted inverted. This explains the issue- _The Epson tech I talked to admitted that the 5010 has issues with being upside down with convergence and lens shift creating some blurring._
> 
> Does the 5040 have any issues with ceiling mounted (inverted) with convergence or lens shift?
> 
> I have a pretty ridiculous sound system that shakes my 5010 and requires me to readjust the lens shift ever so slightly because it falls about 1” on my screen sometimes. My projector is mounted to the floor joists with rubber vibration isolators so the shaking is more of the house shaking the projector. Since the 5010 lens shift and focus are manual, has anyone noticed anything being shaken out of adjustment with the 5040? The idea of not having to get a ladder out to readjust is enough for me to want to get the 5040.
> 
> The other question I have is about the: *“Native Resolution: Native 1080p (1920 x 1080) with 4K Enhancement*
> Maybe my ignorance, but if this is a 4k projector, shouldn’t the native resolution be 2160p like you see on the 4k TV’s?


 If your system is shaking ancillary gear, it doesn't matter how ridiculous your system is, you must take steps to eliminate projector shake. If it's ceiling mounted, maybe some bracing of the joists or studs, damping material between the mount and the ceiling. Maybe a shelf with some vibration damping underneath the feet. Could it be you don't have a proper bond between your subwoofers and the floor, or are the subs wall mounted?


----------



## Dominic Chan

CrocDoc said:


> The other question I have is about the: *“Native Resolution: Native 1080p (1920 x 1080) with 4K Enhancement*
> Maybe my ignorance, but if this is a 4k projector, shouldn’t the native resolution be 2160p like you see on the 4k TV’s?


You've answered your own question. The 5040UB does _not_ have 4k native resolution. It's exactly how Epson describes it - Native 1080p (1920 x 1080) with *4K Enhancement*


----------



## CrocDoc

john barlow said:


> If your system is shaking ancillary gear, it doesn't matter how ridiculous your system is, you must take steps to eliminate projector shake. If it's ceiling mounted, maybe some bracing of the joists or studs, damping material between the mount and the ceiling. Maybe a shelf with some vibration damping underneath the feet. Could it be you don't have a proper bond between your subwoofers and the floor, or are the subs wall mounted?


My projector already has vibration isolators installed between the floor joists and the ceiling mounting plate on my Chief mount. My theater room is in a basement on a concrete slab and the subs I have (on the floor) shake my whole house which in turn shakes my projector on heavy bass scenes in movies. Not a big deal, I was just curious if the 5040’s lens shift is more vibration resistant than the 5010’s manual knobs that can easily come out of adjustment. The adjustment knobs on the 5010 are so sensitive at the middle “0” position; I can change the settings by brushing over them with a feather duster… I was not trying to brag, I am just wondering if anyone that had experience with the older 5010/5030 models and bought the 5040 noticed a difference. What about mounting it inverted on the ceiling? Has anyone noticed any blurring issue like I described on the 5010? I assume Epson resolved this with this model?


----------



## CrocDoc

Dominic Chan said:


> You've answered your own question. The 5040UB does _not_ have 4k native resolution. It's exactly how Epson describes it - Native 1080p (1920 x 1080) with 4K Enhancement


Thanks,
I copied that in bold from Epson’s website, I just got confused how this could be called a “4k projector” if it only outputs in 1080p? Don’t want to mention the taboo JVC in here, but it says it outputs *Resolution (Native / Max):3840x2160* per their website.


----------



## Dominic Chan

CrocDoc said:


> Thanks,
> I copied that in bold from Epson’s website, I just got confused how this could be called a “4k projector” if it only outputs in 1080p? Don’t want to mention the taboo JVC in here, but it says it outputs *Resolution (Native / Max):3840x2160* per their website.


Which model were you looking at? The MSRP for the native 4K DLA4500 is *$35K*


----------



## CrocDoc

Dominic Chan said:


> Which model were you looking at? The MSRP for the native 4K DLA4500 is *$35K*


I was looking at the RS520/RS620 for example.


----------



## jwhn

riddle said:


> Does some one know how to fix it?




Any reason you are using HDMI2? Have you tried using HDMI1? 

The issue seems isolated to the Darbee. Do you need it? If so is there a thread for Darbee? Maybe someone there can help?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

CrocDoc said:


> I was looking at the RS520/RS620 for example.


JVC describes these as “3840 x 2160 Precision via e-shift4 technology”, similar to the Epson "4K Enhancement". No claim of "native 4k".


----------



## CrocDoc

Dominic Chan said:


> JVC describes these as 3840 x 2160 Precision via e-shift4 technology, similar to the Epson "4K Enhancement". No claim of "native 4k".


Thanks. I understand now. I just got confused when I saw JVC stating it outputs 3840 x 2160, but per Epson’s website all I could find is it said it outputs 1080p which is why I was confused. I know there are some native 4k projectors on the market, but as you pointed out they are pricey.


----------



## Tristan944

My 6040UB gets dark at the beginning of some scenes and commercials then goes back to regular brightness. It's especially apparent when the scene before was dark. 

Is there a way to turn off this brightness adjustment feature?


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Hi guys I am interesting to buy the Epson 5040b actually I am between this and the optoma UHD65. I have a 16:9 motorized screen. For CinemaScope I will need another screen or the Epson with his memory zoom can fixed CinemaScope in the same screen that I have? Another problem I Watch the movies with subtitles. Will the subtitles gonna hide with CinemaScope?


----------



## WynsWrld98

Tristan944 said:


> My 6040UB gets dark at the beginning of some scenes and commercials then goes back to regular brightness. It's especially apparent when the scene before was dark.
> 
> Is there a way to turn off this brightness adjustment feature?


Sounds like it is the dynamic iris.


----------



## OMXP

Hi all ,, I get black screen from time to time when gaming on xbox with my 9300 projector, duration for 1 second or 2 and then back to normal. Is this an issue with hdmi cable (monorpice luxe 30ft or auto iris (set to high)?

thanks


----------



## OMXP

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Hi guys I am interesting to buy the Epson 5040b actually I am between this and the optoma UHD65. I have a 16:9 motorized screen. For CinemaScope I will need another screen or the Epson with his memory zoom can fixed CinemaScope in the same screen that I have? Another problem I Watch the movies with subtitles. Will the subtitles gonna hide with CinemaScope?


You will have black bars on top and bottom of your 16:9 screen with 2.35 movies even if you zoom the picture, I got a new scope screen just to get rid of these bars but ended up with left and right bars  but movies on scope screen is worth it, and the subtitle will be over the movie picture not outside the screen.


----------



## carp

WynsWrld98 said:


> I turned pixel shift on and off with 1080p sources and really couldn't tell a difference. You're seeing a significant difference with pixel shift with 1080p sources?


If you sit close enough to a large screen the difference is big because it removes the screen door effect.


----------



## carp

Tried to get HDR with Netflix last night. Looks like I was getting the 4K signal but no HDR. Is that because of the 10g chip on the Epson?


----------



## Dominic Chan

OMXP said:


> the subtitle will be over the movie picture not outside the screen.


That depends on the source. Some sources do display the subtitles outside the picture area.


----------



## bukiwhitey

carp said:


> Tried to get HDR with Netflix last night. Looks like I was getting the 4K signal but no HDR. Is that because of the 10g chip on the Epson?


What were you using for your source?

I get HDR displayed using either a Apple tv 4k or a Nvidia Shield.


----------



## carp

bukiwhitey said:


> What were you using for your source?
> 
> I get HDR displayed using either a Apple tv 4k or a Nvidia Shield.



I have a Roku 4 and was watching Stranger things. 

What do you like better between the Apple tv and Shield?


----------



## john barlow

CrocDoc said:


> My projector already has vibration isolators installed between the floor joists and the ceiling mounting plate on my Chief mount. My theater room is in a basement on a concrete slab and the subs I have (on the floor) shake my whole house which in turn shakes my projector on heavy bass scenes in movies. Not a big deal, I was just curious if the 5040’s lens shift is more vibration resistant than the 5010’s manual knobs that can easily come out of adjustment. The adjustment knobs on the 5010 are so sensitive at the middle “0” position; I can change the settings by brushing over them with a feather duster… I was not trying to brag, I am just wondering if anyone that had experience with the older 5010/5030 models and bought the 5040 noticed a difference. What about mounting it inverted on the ceiling? Has anyone noticed any blurring issue like I described on the 5010? I assume Epson resolved this with this model?


 Good answer. I'm running two subs. Total 5400 watts during bass crescendos I haven't noticed any shake in my setup. I'd still look for bass nodes somewhere. Do some experimenting, using a reference disc that you demonstrate bass with. I'm curious of the contents of gear in your cinema. Intriguing, to say the least. Where might I find a page with your layout or demo? I really wanna know.


----------



## bukiwhitey

carp said:


> I have a Roku 4 and was watching Stranger things.
> 
> What do you like better between the Apple tv and Shield?


Well I have a tremendous amount of ITunes content, so I am very pleased with the 4K content. However I also have a large collection of MKV files with full atmos audio streams on a server, and the shield delivers these perfectly through the Plex app. So really depends on what you need to accomplish. If Apple would ever take the audio restrictions off of the Atv it would be my 1 stop shop, but as it stands I have both.

Both put out a beautiful picture, and are damn near indistinguishable from a 4K source playing on a Oppo 203. I would have to give just a slight nod to the Atv on picture quality with 4K streaming for movies and apps like Netflix, and the shield currently handles audio just a bit better.


----------



## bytebuster

CrocDoc said:


> My projector already has vibration isolators installed between the floor joists and the ceiling mounting plate on my Chief mount. My theater room is in a basement on a concrete slab and the subs I have (on the floor) shake my whole house which in turn shakes my projector on heavy bass scenes in movies. Not a big deal, I was just curious if the 5040’s lens shift is more vibration resistant than the 5010’s manual knobs that can easily come out of adjustment.


I run into this issue a lot with my 5030. I imagine that if this happens with the 5040, it should be enough to reset the lens to the saved setting thereby eliminating the need for readjusting focus?


----------



## CrocDoc

john barlow said:


> Good answer. I'm running two subs. Total 5400 watts during bass crescendos I haven't noticed any shake in my setup. I'd still look for bass nodes somewhere. Do some experimenting, using a reference disc that you demonstrate bass with. I'm curious of the contents of gear in your cinema. Intriguing, to say the least. Where might I find a page with your layout or demo? I really wanna know.


Hi John,
Here is a link to my room layout:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...eakers-subwoofer-thread-212.html#post55002938

Here is a link to the projector mount I made:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...-cinema-5010-6010-thread-41.html#post21745112

I don’t want to hijack this thread, so feel free to PM me if you want more details about my setup.
Thanks


----------



## CrocDoc

bytebuster said:


> I run into this issue a lot with my 5030. I imagine that if this happens with the 5040, it should be enough to reset the lens to the saved setting thereby eliminating the need for readjusting focus?


That’s exactly what I need to know. No doubt I will shake any projector in my room, but if the 5040 does get out of alignment can I just hit a saved setting and return it back? My 5010 (same design as your 5030) manual knobs are too sensitive IMO.


----------



## Azekecse

CrocDoc said:


> That’s exactly what I need to know. No doubt I will shake any projector in my room, but if the 5040 does get out of alignment can I just hit a saved setting and return it back? My 5010 (same design as your 5030) manual knobs are too sensitive IMO.


Yes, I own the 6040 and I needed to save focus/config, so I adjust the focus prior to saving the config to ensure that the current focus setting is saved...I am running firmware 1.10. I will further verify once I fire up the projector later today or tomorrow.

Edit: Focus setting saved, has been verified...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## carp

bukiwhitey said:


> Well I have a tremendous amount of ITunes content, so I am very pleased with the 4K content. However I also have a large collection of MKV files with full atmos audio streams on a server, and the shield delivers these perfectly through the Plex app. So really depends on what you need to accomplish. If Apple would ever take the audio restrictions off of the Atv it would be my 1 stop shop, but as it stands I have both.
> 
> Both put out a beautiful picture, and are damn near indistinguishable from a 4K source playing on a Oppo 203. I would have to give just a slight nod to the Atv on picture quality with 4K streaming for movies and apps like Netflix, and the shield currently handles audio just a bit better.



Good info thanks. I need to get a streaming source for the living room tv so I figure it's a good excuse to move the Roku 4 upstairs and upgrade to something better.


----------



## Buckeye Dave

bukiwhitey said:


> Well I have a tremendous amount of ITunes content, so I am very pleased with the 4K content. However I also have a large collection of MKV files with full atmos audio streams on a server, and the shield delivers these perfectly through the Plex app. So really depends on what you need to accomplish. If Apple would ever take the audio restrictions off of the Atv it would be my 1 stop shop, but as it stands I have both.
> 
> Both put out a beautiful picture, and are damn near indistinguishable from a 4K source playing on a Oppo 203. I would have to give just a slight nod to the Atv on picture quality with 4K streaming for movies and apps like Netflix, and the shield currently handles audio just a bit better.


I know you were answering another member's question but I also appreciate the insight. I am an Apple fan but the ATV4K not supporting Atmos is a big deal to me. I know Apple says it's coming but nobody seems to know when. I guess I need to decide whether to go with the ATV4K and trust that Atmos will come soon or go with the Shield.


----------



## wrighj9

Hey guys and gals,

Just bought a 5040 and have a few questions. I apologize if there is a way to search the forums and my answer is somewhere in there but 374 pages is a massive amount to comb through!

So this is my first projector and I have really enjoyed it so far. The color saturation is really great which is the number 1 thing I was looking for along with brightness. 

1) I watch a lot of football and while the projector is doing pretty well with motion I have noticed that on a pass downfield the football is really jumpy like the projector cannot catch up. This is my 2nd 5040 (First completely crapped out in less than a month) and the first one didn't seem to have the same problem. Is this normal and if not, which settings would you suggest I change in order to alleviate the issue? I also have the same issue with scrolling words across the bottom (ESPN ticker) jumping and flashing kind of. Otherwise, this one actually seems to do better with motion than the first one. The first had kind of a haze around the players with motion that this one does not seem to have.

2) I know that settings are highly based on room but can anyone suggest some basic settings to get the best picture out of it? Or a calibration disk? I would prefer not to pay $400-$500 just to get it professionally calibrated if I can avoid that. My room is a dedicated room with one window completely blacked out and tan walls, tan carpet, grey sofa. So overall the room is dark but the walls and carpet don't help. Grey screen.

Anything else you all can help with, I would be extremely grateful. Like I said, this is my first projector and just trying to get the best viewing out of it as possible. There are so many settings and options to change that I just don't know what to attack first. I have tried to research as much as I can before posting but my wife and I are still getting used to being parents and we're definitely not as efficient with our time as we used to be!

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Azekecse

wrighj9 said:


> Hey guys and gals,
> 
> Just bought a 5040 and have a few questions. I apologize if there is a way to search the forums and my answer is somewhere in there but 374 pages is a massive amount to comb through!
> 
> So this is my first projector and I have really enjoyed it so far. The color saturation is really great which is the number 1 thing I was looking for along with brightness.
> 
> 1) I watch a lot of football and while the projector is doing pretty well with motion I have noticed that on a pass downfield the football is really jumpy like the projector cannot catch up. This is my 2nd 5040 (First completely crapped out in less than a month) and the first one didn't seem to have the same problem. Is this normal and if not, which settings would you suggest I change in order to alleviate the issue? I also have the same issue with scrolling words across the bottom (ESPN ticker) jumping and flashing kind of. Otherwise, this one actually seems to do better with motion than the first one. The first had kind of a haze around the players with motion that this one does not seem to have.
> 
> 2) I know that settings are highly based on room but can anyone suggest some basic settings to get the best picture out of it? Or a calibration disk? I would prefer not to pay $400-$500 just to get it professionally calibrated if I can avoid that. My room is a dedicated room with one window completely blacked out and tan walls, tan carpet, grey sofa. So overall the room is dark but the walls and carpet don't help. Grey screen.
> 
> Anything else you all can help with, I would be extremely grateful. Like I said, this is my first projector and just trying to get the best viewing out of it as possible. There are so many settings and options to change that I just don't know what to attack first. I have tried to research as much as I can before posting but my wife and I are still getting used to being parents and we're definitely not as efficient with our time as we used to be!
> 
> Thanks in advance!


First of all congratulations.

1) Check the following (Sports): 
a) Ensure Overscan is set to Off
b) Deinterlacing - Off
c) Epson Super White - Off
d) Dynamic Iris - Off
e) Noise reduction Off
f) Image Processing - Fast (Optional)

2) Harpervision (Dave Harper)/Oledurt settings are probably the best you can get without an ISF Calibration Pro.
Try the link below:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2306690&d=1509189943

You want to utilize your Memory settings to save each calibration/config and name the settings accordingly.

If you have a light controlled room, then cinewhite (1.1 or higher) is a better screen for this projector, it makes the colors pop. I had a gray screen, and upgraded to the Epson Lunette 2 120" 16:9 (I watch a lot of sports programming), much better IMHO. You could go Stewart or Dalite, but I was looking at my ROI, and I didn't want to spend 2-3 x's more for the screen, but if you can afford it, by all means, but it will cost you almost as much as the projector, YMMV.

Hope this helps. Good luck and most of all enjoy...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## The_Forth_Man

bukiwhitey said:


> Well I have a tremendous amount of ITunes content, so I am very pleased with the 4K content. However I also have a large collection of MKV files with full atmos audio streams on a server, and the shield delivers these perfectly through the Plex app. So really depends on what you need to accomplish. If Apple would ever take the audio restrictions off of the Atv it would be my 1 stop shop, but as it stands I have both.
> 
> Both put out a beautiful picture, and are damn near indistinguishable from a 4K source playing on a Oppo 203. I would have to give just a slight nod to the Atv on picture quality with 4K streaming for movies and apps like Netflix, and the shield currently handles audio just a bit better.


Quick question regarding the Shield witch is basically the only Player/streamer I havent bought to test out.

Appart from the Atmos support are there any other things (games not a factor) that I would be missing If I went with the Atv 4k I too have a lot of Itunes and Have been running plex for many year (even on the Atv 2 and 3.)

Thanks


----------



## wrighj9

Thanks so much for the quick reply Azeke. I'll give those settings a shot!


----------



## Azekecse

The_Forth_Man said:


> Quick question regarding the Shield witch is basically the only Player/streamer I havent bought to test out.
> 
> Apart from the Atmos support are there any other things (games not a factor) that I would be missing If I went with the Atv 4k I too have a lot of Itunes and Have been running plex for many year (even on the Atv 2 and 3.)
> 
> Thanks


If you're are a part of the Apple Ecosystem (mirroring, iPad/iphone remote capability, etc), then the ATV 4K is a very good streamer, the Shield was one of the best, IMHO, prior to the ATV 4k. I have both and the 4K image quality is about the same to me...I have about 60 movies via iTunes, so I decided to purchase the ATV 4k. I bought the 64Gb version, because it made no sense to buy the 32Gb version just to save $20.00. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## djb61230

The_Forth_Man said:


> Quick question regarding the Shield witch is basically the only Player/streamer I havent bought to test out.
> 
> Appart from the Atmos support are there any other things (games not a factor) that I would be missing If I went with the Atv 4k I too have a lot of Itunes and Have been running plex for many year (even on the Atv 2 and 3.)
> 
> Thanks


Also DTS and DTS-X audio bit streaming as the ATV won't pass them through. I have both Shield and ATV 4k and for Plex I'd opt for the Shield personally. But I like the ATV 4k, watched a lot of Netflix this past weekend. It will be nice to have the Amazon app at some point, if they do it right in respect to 4k and HDR. Still use the Shield for Amazon content.


----------



## Tup

Tristan944 said:


> My 6040UB gets dark at the beginning of some scenes and commercials then goes back to regular brightness. It's especially apparent when the scene before was dark.
> 
> Is there a way to turn off this brightness adjustment feature?


This happens some when the dynamic iris is set to fast. Try changing to the other iris setting....whatever it is called....Normal I think.


----------



## Tristan944

Tup said:


> Tristan944 said:
> 
> 
> 
> My 6040UB gets dark at the beginning of some scenes and commercials then goes back to regular brightness. It's especially apparent when the scene before was dark.
> 
> Is there a way to turn off this brightness adjustment feature?
> 
> 
> 
> This happens some when the dynamic iris is set to fast. Try changing to the other iris setting....whatever it is called....Normal I think.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I will try this.


----------



## Tristan944

I have a Seymour Enlightor 4K screen. This is my first screen and projector (6040UB). I have it in a light controlled room. I think it looks amazing. But I'm curious, does anyone have any experience or input on the Seymour Enlightor 4K?


----------



## bukiwhitey

The_Forth_Man said:


> Quick question regarding the Shield witch is basically the only Player/streamer I havent bought to test out.
> 
> Appart from the Atmos support are there any other things (games not a factor) that I would be missing If I went with the Atv 4k I too have a lot of Itunes and Have been running plex for many year (even on the Atv 2 and 3.)
> 
> Thanks


Nothing I can think of, Atmos and streaming lossless audio files from MKV files are the only edge the Shield has currently. The Atv will do atmos soon.


----------



## leeirvine

Does anyone use this projector with a throw of 25 foot/8 meters? 


If so, would be very interested to hear how they find it re brightness/picture etc - particularly if they also have some ambient light!!!


I would be looking at using it with a 125inch 16:9 screen (since that is the smallest screen size I believe that I could go with the projector at that throw distance).


Lee


----------



## Spyderturbo007

I've tried searching this thread, but it keeps saying my search terms are too short, so I apologize if this has been discussed.

With the upcoming release of the Xbox One X, does anyone know if we'll be able to use the 4K with HDR? I know there are some issues with the Xbox One S due to the HDMI chipset bandwidth limitation. I just want to make sure that I'll be able to at least use it and maybe just not get the entire color space.


----------



## Dominic Chan

leeirvine said:


> Does anyone use this projector with a throw of 25 foot/8 meters?
> If so, would be very interested to hear how they find it re brightness/picture etc - particularly if they also have some ambient light!!!
> I would be looking at using it with a 125inch 16:9 screen (since that is the smallest screen size I believe that I could go with the projector at that throw distance).


With the lamp at low power, Cinema mode may be too dim, but you should be fine with the Natural mode.


----------



## bukiwhitey

Spyderturbo007 said:


> I've tried searching this thread, but it keeps saying my search terms are too short, so I apologize if this has been discussed.
> 
> With the upcoming release of the Xbox One X, does anyone know if we'll be able to use the 4K with HDR? I know there are some issues with the Xbox One S due to the HDMI chipset bandwidth limitation. I just want to make sure that I'll be able to at least use it and maybe just not get the entire color space.


It will not do 4k HDR at 60hz, which is what most games run at. If the Xbox allows you to change the frame rate to 24hz, then you can get the HDR to work.


----------



## Chris the Rock

bukiwhitey said:


> It will not do 4k HDR at 60hz, which is what most games run at. If the Xbox allows you to change the frame rate to 24hz, then you can get the HDR to work.


This answer is right and kinda wrong at the same time.
60Hz is not equivalent to 60fps, so it's not about "most games" running this way. 

Any gaming console, while playing games, will output its video signal at 60hz. You can't change it to output at 24Hz to play games. When setup to "Allow 24Hz" in the setup menu, if you slide a UHD disc into the Xbox One S or X, it can output at 24Hz, which will give you HDR for UHD movies.

It's been mentioned in this thread before, but the only hope of HDR in games on the Xbox One X is if it will add HDR to a 1080p signal, like the PS4 Pro does. Then it becomes a choice of 2160p with no HDR, or 1080p with HDR. And in nearly all cases, at least with the PS4 Pro, I prefer the latter. I recently finished Uncharted The Lost Legacy on the PS4 Pro and the HDR was really nice. It's worth noting that turning HDR off didn't make it "bad" by any means, so there's nothing to worry about with the Xbox One X looking "bad". In fact, playing Gears Of War 4 on my Original Day One Xbox One looks drop-dead gorgeous, even though I can't apply HDR on my Epson projector. I expect the same kind of awesome-looking games on the Xbox One X when it arrives, with even better textures and framerates.

It's unknown at this point whether that will be an option. I am not holding out hope, as Microsoft seems to omit some nice A/V features when they release Xbox hardware, and add them much later with firmware/OS updates. If anyone on this thread happens to know whether 1080p+HDR will be an option, I'd love to know. Otherwise, on 11/7, I'll be finding out like everyone else.


----------



## Juiced46

Chris the Rock said:


> This answer is right and kinda wrong at the same time.
> 60Hz is not equivalent to 60fps, so it's not about "most games" running this way.
> 
> Any gaming console, while playing games, will output its video signal at 60hz. You can't change it to output at 24Hz to play games. When setup to "Allow 24Hz" in the setup menu, if you slide a UHD disc into the Xbox One S or X, it can output at 24Hz, which will give you HDR for UHD movies.
> 
> It's been mentioned in this thread before, but the only hope of HDR in games on the Xbox One X is if it will add HDR to a 1080p signal, like the PS4 Pro does. Then it becomes a choice of 2160p with no HDR, or 1080p with HDR. And in nearly all cases, at least with the PS4 Pro, I prefer the latter. I recently finished Uncharted The Lost Legacy on the PS4 Pro and the HDR was really nice. It's worth noting that turning HDR off didn't make it "bad" by any means, so there's nothing to worry about with the Xbox One X looking "bad". In fact, playing Gears Of War 4 on my Original Day One Xbox One looks drop-dead gorgeous, even though I can't apply HDR on my Epson projector. I expect the same kind of awesome-looking games on the Xbox One X when it arrives, with even better textures and framerates.
> 
> It's unknown at this point whether that will be an option. I am not holding out hope, as Microsoft seems to omit some nice A/V features when they release Xbox hardware, and add them much later with firmware/OS updates. If anyone on this thread happens to know whether 1080p+HDR will be an option, I'd love to know. Otherwise, on 11/7, I'll be finding out like everyone else.


I have been trying to find out of the X will have support for 1080p with HDR and nobody seems to know. We will know for sure in a week though. 

I have been messing around with my PS4 Pro playing Gran Turismo Sport comparing 4k/SDR vs 1080p/HDR to see which I prefer better. 4K resolution looks better, but the colors with 1080p HDR are much better. I have found the best (for me) is to run 1080p/HDR with Harpervision settings in "quality mode" in GT Sport, with 4K Enhancement turned on, on the Epson. With 4K enhancement off, the "jaggies" are more noticeable, mostly in text. Framrate is very smooth in 1080p/HDR and the game flat out looks amazing. I just wish Epson didnt give us the shaft of not being able to do 4K/60hz HDR.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Juiced46 said:


> I have been trying to find out of the X will have support for 1080p with HDR and nobody seems to know. We will know for sure in a week though.
> 
> I have been messing around with my PS4 Pro playing Gran Turismo Sport comparing 4k/SDR vs 1080p/HDR to see which I prefer better. 4K resolution looks better, but the colors with 1080p HDR are much better.


Is that because of the wider colour gamut, or the higher dynamic range? The latter affects mostly the highlights.


----------



## Juiced46

Dominic Chan said:


> Is that because of the wider colour gamut, or the higher dynamic range? The latter affects mostly the highlights.


I am not quite sure why. But I can tell you detail and color to my eyes seem better. Black detail is much better for sure when I switched between the 2


----------



## NetViper

Juiced46 said:


> I have been trying to find out of the X will have support for 1080p with HDR and nobody seems to know. We will know for sure in a week though.
> 
> I have been messing around with my PS4 Pro playing Gran Turismo Sport comparing 4k/SDR vs 1080p/HDR to see which I prefer better. 4K resolution looks better, but the colors with 1080p HDR are much better. I have found the best (for me) is to run 1080p/HDR with Harpervision settings in "quality mode" in GT Sport, with 4K Enhancement turned on, on the Epson. With 4K enhancement off, the "jaggies" are more noticeable, mostly in text. Framrate is very smooth in 1080p/HDR and the game flat out looks amazing. I just wish Epson didnt give us the shaft of not being able to do 4K/60hz HDR.


It sounds like the new Sony 285 might have the same issues at twice the price too!

“No magic fix folks, sorry. 60p 4K on the 285ES, 385ES and 675ES is limited to 8-bit due to internal processing (as opposed to HDMI limitations).”


----------



## SALadder22FF

So on a game like Assassins Creed Origins which will be enhanced for the Xbox One X by what they call 4k checkrboarding with HDR at 30fps, will Harpervision and the other similar SDR work arounds work in the same way as for uhd discs?


----------



## burton14e7

So I just updated my shield today and can't get 4k and HDR at the same time anymore in netflix when set at 23.97 bt.2020. I rarely use the shield but it sucks because we're watching stranger things and have to watch it in 1080p like peasants to get hdr. I tried rebooting it and the receiver a bunch to no avail.


----------



## bnergi

burton14e7 said:


> So I just updated my shield today and can't get 4k and HDR at the same time anymore in netflix when set at 23.97 bt.2020. I rarely use the shield but it sucks because we're watching stranger things and have to watch it in 1080p like peasants to get hdr. I tried rebooting it and the receiver a bunch to no avail.


Same here. Any solution for this?


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Chris the Rock said:


> This answer is right and kinda wrong at the same time.
> 60Hz is not equivalent to 60fps, so it's not about "most games" running this way.
> 
> Any gaming console, while playing games, will output its video signal at 60hz. You can't change it to output at 24Hz to play games. When setup to "Allow 24Hz" in the setup menu, if you slide a UHD disc into the Xbox One S or X, it can output at 24Hz, which will give you HDR for UHD movies.
> 
> It's been mentioned in this thread before, but the only hope of HDR in games on the Xbox One X is if it will add HDR to a 1080p signal, like the PS4 Pro does. Then it becomes a choice of 2160p with no HDR, or 1080p with HDR. And in nearly all cases, at least with the PS4 Pro, I prefer the latter. I recently finished Uncharted The Lost Legacy on the PS4 Pro and the HDR was really nice. It's worth noting that turning HDR off didn't make it "bad" by any means, so there's nothing to worry about with the Xbox One X looking "bad". In fact, playing Gears Of War 4 on my Original Day One Xbox One looks drop-dead gorgeous, even though I can't apply HDR on my Epson projector. I expect the same kind of awesome-looking games on the Xbox One X when it arrives, with even better textures and framerates.
> 
> It's unknown at this point whether that will be an option. I am not holding out hope, as Microsoft seems to omit some nice A/V features when they release Xbox hardware, and add them much later with firmware/OS updates. If anyone on this thread happens to know whether 1080p+HDR will be an option, I'd love to know. Otherwise, on 11/7, I'll be finding out like everyone else.


Thanks for taking the time to type all that out. I'm also on a Day One Xbox and although I have a pre-order in, I've been considering cancelling because of the 4K / HDR issue.

Maybe it's the projector that should go.....


----------



## Chris the Rock

SALadder22FF said:


> So on a game like Assassins Creed Origins which will be enhanced for the Xbox One X by what they call 4k checkrboarding with HDR at 30fps, will Harpervision and the other similar SDR work arounds work in the same way as for uhd discs?


No, I don't think so. 

If you tell the Xbox One X to output in 4K (checkerboarding or not), it won't show in HDR, regardless whether the game is 30fps or 60fps. The output from the Xbox One X will be 4K at 60hz, and HDR won't [CAN'T] come with it, no matter what settings you decide to enable on your projector.

If Microsoft decides to let HDR come with the 1080p signal, then you'll get a "supersampled" 1080p picture with HDR.

Or you can choose 2160p ("4k") and live without the HDR, at least on this projector. Or maybe I should say "most other" projectors that have low input lag measurements and would be worth playing games on. Certainly there are very few of those that are anywhere close in price to the Epson 5040/6040. And even those have bulbs costing at least double the $300 that the OEM Epson bulb costs.

So we can decry Epson all we want for not including all the capability we would like when they released this projector nearly 18 months before the Xbox One X came out, but we don't have a great deal of choices at the same price point. 

In my cynical view, it's likely we won't get 1080p + HDR on the Xbox One X, at least not at launch. It would be great to be proven wrong. I scoop the 'net every day to see if I can turn up evidence that it will support it - and if I find out in the next week, I'll let everyone know!


----------



## SALadder22FF

Chris the Rock said:


> No, I don't think so.
> 
> If you tell the Xbox One X to output in 4K (checkerboarding or not), it won't show in HDR, regardless whether the game is 30fps or 60fps. The output from the Xbox One X will be 4K at 60hz, and HDR won't [CAN'T] come with it, no matter what settings you decide to enable on your projector.
> 
> If Microsoft decides to let HDR come with the 1080p signal, then you'll get a "supersampled" 1080p picture with HDR.
> 
> Or you can choose 2160p ("4k") and live without the HDR, at least on this projector. Or maybe I should say "most other" projectors that have low input lag measurements and would be worth playing games on. Certainly there are very few of those that are anywhere close in price to the Epson 5040/6040. And even those have bulbs costing at least double the $300 that the OEM Epson bulb costs.
> 
> So we can decry Epson all we want for not including all the capability we would like when they released this projector nearly 18 months before the Xbox One X came out, but we don't have a great deal of choices at the same price point.
> 
> In my cynical view, it's likely we won't get 1080p + HDR on the Xbox One X, at least not at launch. It would be great to be proven wrong. I scoop the 'net every day to see if I can turn up evidence that it will support it - and if I find out in the next week, I'll let everyone know!


I'm ok with games just being 4k 60fps.. is gonna look gorgeous regardless


----------



## Uppsalaing

It seems these Epsons were specified with movies in mind, in particular blu rays and UHD discs... Which is great for me, but HDR streaming and HDR gaming can be challenging for those who seek that, but it seems that the Apple TV updates might solve the former at least (frame rate switching in beta)... We'll see...


----------



## NetViper

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm ok with games just being 4k 60fps.. is gonna look gorgeous regardless


It will, but I saw the new Grand Turismo on the Sony Oled and it was the most impressive game I have ever seen at 4K HDR. But then again we are double the screen size


----------



## SALadder22FF

NetViper said:


> It will, but I saw the new Grand Turismo on the Sony Oled and it was the most impressive game I have ever seen at 4K HDR. But then again we are double the screen size



Exactly. Can't get the size screen for the price at all


----------



## ruggercb

Is there a magic sequence to get HDR games from the PS4 pro? Every time I set the PS4 pro to 1080p/hdr, then go in to a game such as horizon zero dawn, then turn on hdr there, the epson loses the signal and I can’t get anything back till I hard reset the PS4. I get audio but no image, even when hitting home on the controller.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris the Rock

ruggercb said:


> Is there a magic sequence to get HDR games from the PS4 pro? Every time I set the PS4 pro to 1080p/hdr, then go in to a game such as horizon zero dawn, then turn on hdr there, the epson loses the signal and I can’t get anything back till I hard reset the PS4. I get audio but no image, even when hitting home on the controller.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yikes. That's not supposed to happen. It sounds like your AV Receiver or Preamp/processor is having problems when the signal is changed.

My system is: PS4 Pro to Marantz AV7702ii processor to Epson Projector in HDMI 1.
When I do like you've described, I get a momentary black screen until the handshake is re-established. It takes maybe 2 seconds.

If your AVR has options to simply "pass-through" the video signal, try that. AVRs these days have their own upscaling features, which, while may be OK to use on some legacy sources, will cause problems with sources that can output video with resolutions that change.

To test further, you could run your PS4 straight into HDMI1 of the projector. Of course you won't get sound, but it would test whether the AVR causes your problems, or if the PS4 Pro is the cause.

I hope you find the cause soon, and find a way to solve it.


----------



## ruggercb

Chris the Rock said:


> Yikes. That's not supposed to happen. It sounds like your AV Receiver or Preamp/processor is having problems when the signal is changed.
> 
> 
> 
> My system is: PS4 Pro to Marantz AV7702ii processor to Epson Projector in HDMI 1.
> 
> When I do like you've described, I get a momentary black screen until the handshake is re-established. It takes maybe 2 seconds.
> 
> 
> 
> If your AVR has options to simply "pass-through" the video signal, try that. AVRs these days have their own upscaling features, which, while may be OK to use on some legacy sources, will cause problems with sources that can output video with resolutions that change.
> 
> 
> 
> To test further, you could run your PS4 straight into HDMI1 of the projector. Of course you won't get sound, but it would test whether the AVR causes your problems, or if the PS4 Pro is the cause.
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you find the cause soon, and find a way to solve it.




I have a Denon x3200w in between, and I’ve turned passthrough on and off and it didn’t seem to matter. I have all 18 gbit hdmi cable too.

I thought maybe there was something obvious I was or wasn’t doing. I’m leaning toward an AVR issue as well...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris the Rock

ruggercb said:


> I have a Denon x3200w in between, and I’ve turned passthrough on and off and it didn’t seem to matter. I have all 18 gbit hdmi cable too.
> 
> I thought maybe there was something obvious I was or wasn’t doing. I’m leaning toward an AVR issue as well...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


On my Marantz (which shares much in common with it's Denon brothers), there's a setting called "i/p scaler" that I had trouble with once, though I can't recall what the issue was. I got really confused once, because I had turned it off for one input source, thinking it was disabled globally, only to learn that it's set per input.

It sounds like you've probably turned all that stuff off, because it's related to the "video conversion" settings.


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm ok with games just being 4k 60fps.. is gonna look gorgeous regardless


question, on my XB1S you can go into settings and turn on 4K ir 1080P. If you choose 1080P you can then turn on 4K enhancement on via the projector and I think that really looks good. Or you can turn on 4K and get no enhancement, but the "4K" signal via the XB1S is still a BT709 signal not a BT2020 signal so it is not really a 4K signal correct? 

With Xbox X the signal will be true 4K BT2020 so I can use a 4K calibration file with 2020? My buddies XB1S looked weird because he was using his 4K 2020 calibration file with it, should still use the 1080P 709 file because colors are still BT709.

So basically is the XB1S a 4K BT2020 signal?


----------



## SALadder22FF

Would someone mind posting their shield settings for Netflix HDR. I tried doing it last night for Stranger Things 2 and I couldn't tell a different when I changed it to 24hz with 4k HDR. Is it because it's using Dolby Vision and the projector cannot do that? I was using Harpervision which I have seen transform movies into jaw dropping HDR, but did nothing for this Netflix HDR show.


----------



## ruggercb

Chris the Rock said:


> On my Marantz (which shares much in common with it's Denon brothers), there's a setting called "i/p scaler" that I had trouble with once, though I can't recall what the issue was. I got really confused once, because I had turned it off for one input source, thinking it was disabled globally, only to learn that it's set per input.
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like you've probably turned all that stuff off, because it's related to the "video conversion" settings.




Dude, it was the “per input” thing I think threw me off. Seems I never set that while on the PS4 as the source! Many thanks, looks like it’s A ok now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> So on a game like Assassins Creed Origins which will be enhanced for the Xbox One X by what they call 4k checkrboarding with HDR at 30fps, will Harpervision and the other similar SDR work arounds work in the same way as for uhd discs?


At this moment, I am going to say NO. We do not know what the X will output as far as signals. If its only 4k?60hz HDR, it will not work. You can only use HarperVision settings with an HDR signal. If the X allows 1080p/HDR then yes, you can use those settings. We will find out next week. 




SALadder22FF said:


> I'm ok with games just being 4k 60fps.. is gonna look gorgeous regardless


You are either going to get 4K/SDR or 1080p/HDR. You have to pick your poision. We still do not know what the X will output, so there is a chance you may not be able to do HDR at all. Regardless, 4K/SDR still looks great, however HDR is obviously going to look better, but it is too early to tell with the X. 



Uppsalaing said:


> It seems these Epsons were specified with movies in mind, in particular blu rays and UHD discs... Which is great for me, but HDR streaming and HDR gaming can be challenging for those who seek that, but it seems that the Apple TV updates might solve the former at least (frame rate switching in beta)... We'll see...


The HDR gaming and no 4K/HDR is a big bummer to me. Since I game alot, I feel like I have been mislead. When one of the leading Projector Manufacturers comes out with a "4K HDR" Projector, you would think that they would take into consideration the 2 main gaming systems that were already out when they released the projector. Yes, its great to get 4K/24 HDR UHD movies. But for us gamers, we got totally screwed not having HDR 4K/60 support. 



NetViper said:


> It will, but I saw the new Grand Turismo on the Sony Oled and it was the most impressive game I have ever seen at 4K HDR. But then again we are double the screen size


I can tell you, Gran Turismo still looks amazing on the 5040 using 4K/SDR or 1080p/HDR. Only thing that sucks is the game is a big pile of poo. It looks great, but that is about all..... It is very sad after all that time...



ruggercb said:


> Is there a magic sequence to get HDR games from the PS4 pro? Every time I set the PS4 pro to 1080p/hdr, then go in to a game such as horizon zero dawn, then turn on hdr there, the epson loses the signal and I can’t get anything back till I hard reset the PS4. I get audio but no image, even when hitting home on the controller.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No special sequence. Make sure you PS4 is set to 1080p and both HDR and Dynamic Color(i think thats what they call it off the top of my head is set to "auto" I use my 5040, with a PS4 Pro and a Denon 4300. 1080p/HDR works flawless. When the game boots up, the image goes blank for a few secs, its switches to HDR and works fine. For your issue. I would hook the PS4 straight to the 5040 to rule out a setting issue in the Denon or cable. 



robc1976 said:


> question, on my XB1S you can go into settings and turn on 4K ir 1080P. If you choose 1080P you can then turn on 4K enhancement on via the projector and I think that really looks good. Or you can turn on 4K and get no enhancement, but the "4K" signal via the XB1S is still a BT709 signal not a BT2020 signal so it is not really a 4K signal correct?
> 
> With Xbox X the signal will be true 4K BT2020 so I can use a 4K calibration file with 2020? My buddies XB1S looked weird because he was using his 4K 2020 calibration file with it, should still use the 1080P 709 file because colors are still BT709.
> 
> So basically is the XB1S a 4K BT2020 signal?


BT2020 has nothing to do with 4K. If you see BT2020, you are getting HDR. HDR and 4K or resolution have nothing to do with each other on the XB1S. You cannot for a fact get 4K BT2020 when gaming on the XB1S, that is a fact. Use 4K BT709, this gives you 4K/SDR, since its impossible to game in HDR on a 5040 regardless of resolution. 



NetViper said:


> It sounds like the new Sony 285 might have the same issues at twice the price too!
> 
> “No magic fix folks, sorry. 60p 4K on the 285ES, 385ES and 675ES is limited to 8-bit due to internal processing (as opposed to HDMI limitations).”


DAMNNNN!!!! Those guys got totally fugged. I would be pissed. I am already upset about not being able to get 4K/60hz 12 bit with my 5040, if I dropped that type of coin on a Sony and it still does not work, I probably would ship the thing back with a bunch of my dogs poo in it, especially at that price.


----------



## Uppsalaing

*Apple TV & Epson 9300W*

So... I bought the new Apple TV 4K seeing as the latest beta has the switching option i've been waiting for (will install the final version when it's available, as I don't beta test )...

I've been playing some HDR streams on Netflix in 1080p (Stranger Things 2, Mindhunter & Okja)... quite nice using the Default Digital Cinema settings, but I find I have to increase the Gamma by 1 or 2 given that my temporary room has light walls and a grey screen...

I tried the "HarperVision" settings mentioned on this forum (thanks guys ), but I prefer the default Digital Cinema settings... In fact, i think I prefer the Natural SDR settings on an SDR stream to the HarperVision ... ever so slightly 

I'll test the Apple HDR movies later in the week... Not that many HDR movies on Netflix, mostly TV shows... I only watched Stranger Things 2 to test the projector, as I'm not a fan of the show... Please let me know if there are any favourite scenes I should check out for HDR in movies or series...

So far, I'm pleasantly surprised by the quality of the HDR given that I bought the projector for it's SDR and blu ray capabilities  ... I'm happy enough that I think I'll get a UHD player by the end of the year to suplement my main blu ray viewing...

This HDR stuff is going to look great when I complete my dedicated room in a couple of months and calibrate the Epson...


----------



## Uppsalaing

Juiced46 said:


> ...
> The HDR gaming and no 4K/HDR is a big bummer to me. Since I game alot, I feel like I have been mislead. When one of the leading Projector Manufacturers comes out with a "4K HDR" Projector, you would think that they would take into consideration the 2 main gaming systems that were already out when they released the projector. Yes, its great to get 4K/24 HDR UHD movies. But for us gamers, we got totally screwed not having HDR 4K/60 support.
> ...


Yes.

We're at a stage of the technology where as a consumer we have to look into the details to make sure things work for our purpose... TVs are a couple of generations ahead of projectors in specifications so fewer challenges there, but a projector is a different experience, so we just have to be a lot more carefull as buyers... It's a bad situation and I'm sure a lot of people got caught by this. No one wants to make a $2,500 - 3,500 mistake!

For movies 4K seems to have less impact than HDR, especially if your projector has upscaling as these Epsons do... I don't know how it works for gaming.


----------



## Starks1

Uppsalaing said:


> Yes.
> 
> We're at a stage of the technology where as a consumer we have to look into the details to make sure things work for our purpose... TVs are a couple of generations ahead of projectors in specifications so fewer challenges there, but a projector is a different experience, so we just have to be a lot more carefull as buyers... It's a bad situation and I'm sure a lot of people got caught by this. No one wants to make a $2,500 - 3,500 mistake!
> 
> For movies 4K seems to have less impact than HDR, especially if your projector has upscaling as these Epsons do... I don't know how it works for gaming.


I agree that it's a bit of a bummer. I've been playing around with my pc and I have found keeping hdr with a downsampled 4k to 1080p image doesn't have much sharpness difference from native 4k in destiny 2. Horizon zero dawn shows a bit of a difference in sharpness with their downsampled 4k to 1080p, I go back and forth with which one I like more.

In the end, this projector is a stop gap in generational technology. Neither 4k nor hdr are optimal but they get you a heck of a better experience than a regular 1080p projector! 

Sent from my 2PZC5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris the Rock

ruggercb said:


> Dude, it was the “per input” thing I think threw me off. Seems I never set that while on the PS4 as the source! Many thanks, looks like it’s A ok now!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's awesome! I love it when we can help each other out - even on accident - by just sharing our experiences.


----------



## jwhn

Uppsalaing said:


> So... I bought the new Apple TV 4K seeing as the latest beta has the switching option i've been waiting for (will install the final version when it's available, as I don't beta test )...
> 
> I've been playing some HDR streams on Netflix in 1080p (Stranger Things 2, Mindhunter & Okja)... quite nice using the Default Digital Cinema settings, but I find I have to increase the Gamma by 1 or 2 given that my temporary room has light walls and a grey screen...
> 
> I tried the "HarperVision" settings mentioned on this forum (thanks guys ), but I prefer the default Digital Cinema settings... In fact, i think I prefer the Natural SDR settings on an SDR stream to the HarperVision ... ever so slightly
> 
> I'll test the Apple HDR movies later in the week... Not that many HDR movies on Netflix, mostly TV shows... I only watched Stranger Things 2 to test the projector, as I'm not a fan of the show... Please let me know if there are any favourite scenes I should check out for HDR in movies or series...
> 
> So far, I'm pleasantly surprised by the quality of the HDR given that I bought the projector for it's SDR and blu ray capabilities  ... I'm happy enough that I think I'll get a UHD player by the end of the year to suplement my main blu ray viewing...
> 
> This HDR stuff is going to look great when I complete my dedicated room in a couple of months and calibrate the Epson...


One thing to consider as you continue trying to optimize the settings is that streaming 4K / HDR is not the same as physical disks with a UHD player due to compression, etc.. I believe that both Dave's and Olerdut's settings were done using UHD players. So I'm not sure we can expect the same eye-popping picture quality that they are getting with those settings when streaming.


----------



## SeattleHTGuy

jwhn said:


> One thing to consider as you continue trying to optimize the settings is that streaming 4K / HDR is not the same as physical disks with a UHD player due to compression, etc.. I believe that both Dave's and Olerdut's settings were done using UHD players. So I'm not sure we can expect the same eye-popping picture quality that they are getting with those settings when streaming.


There is a ton of variability on streaming content. Compression is a very real thing. I watched Wonder Woman on Vudu UHD, which claims to be the real UHD deal on Vudu. I set my projector to manual on the HDR setting of 1 and tried to brighten the affect. There were parts of the movie that were so dark and washed out, the movie was unwatchable via streaming. I note the night boat departure scene from the island as one big blackish mess. Then I tried it in the Oppo via the 4K disc and the difference was radically superior. 

My house gets a consistent 100 to 120 MBPS throughput from my Internet Provider and it still looked like crap. Again, I am new to the 6040 ownership club but so far, I choose not to obsess about what the Epson can do in 4K and am more interested in the quality of the 4K streaming service provider. I will begin playing around with Amazon and Netflix but Vudu, which has been my go to streaming movie service is coming up short. I am reading this thread to get help and advice and must say, my knowledge is low today. By no means a I a 4K UHD streaming expert yet.

I also haven't fully calibrated the 6040 yet and only have ISF calibrated for Cinema setting Medium with SD material. Will work on tweaking for 4K UHD this weekend and review recommendations on this thread. 

OK, so my advice still remains. Focus on your streaming content quality first, then fret about absolute limits of the projector. Or just throw in the towel and buy the disk for your favorite movies.


----------



## vpn75

Can someone confirm whether or not the 5040UBE can support 4K60/HDR via the wireless interface using nVidia Shield? I was hoping I could get HDR to work at 4K from my HTPC using the wireless interface. How is the lag with this method? I mainly play single-player games so hoping it won't be much of an issue.


----------



## ed3120

I'm debating between the Sony HW45ES and the 5040. I watch mostly 1080P TV...much of it streamed. With 1080P sources, is the e-Shift going to improve the picture sharpness noticeably over the HW45ES, or is it really only better when you start with 4K sources?


----------



## coderguy

ed3120 said:


> I'm debating between the Sony HW45ES and the 5040. I watch mostly 1080P TV...much of it streamed. With 1080P sources, is the e-Shift going to improve the picture sharpness noticeably over the HW45ES, or is it really only better when you start with 4K sources?


It's a matter of preference, some people only like it with 4k sources, some use it all the time, some turn it off whenever they can (except for 4K sources since it forces it on, because that's how it does the 4k image itself).

I would say if you are looking at the Epson 5040, you should also take a look around for some closeout prices or even regular prices on a JVC RS-400/420/440.
The JVC e-shift is better than the Epson, the contrast is higher, the JVC is sharper, and on and on.

Someone posted a few days ago that they got the JVC RS-440 for about the same price as the Epson (within $200), so maybe you can find a deal on the JVC. I don't know fi you can find that price, but I am fairly sure you can for an RS-400 or RS-420 at least, if you look hard enough.

To me, LCOS looks better than LCD and the Sony has higher native contrast, so I'd take the Sony all things being equal. That said, the QC issues of the Sony with possible contrast loss would make me skip both the Sony and the Epson and go straight to the JVC for a few hundred more.


----------



## raf77

JVC is not sharper.


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> BT2020 has nothing to do with 4K. If you see BT2020, you are getting HDR. HDR and 4K or resolution have nothing to do with each other on the XB1S. You cannot for a fact get 4K BT2020 when gaming on the XB1S, that is a fact. Use 4K BT709, this gives you 4K/SDR, since its impossible to game in HDR on a 5040 regardless of resolution.


I was wondering, my calibrator told me anything in 4K is BT2020 color space. I had a 4K calibration file that was 4K SDR that I wanted to use for the XB1S (4K enabled via'XB1S) and he said to use the 1080P SDR file as it was BT709 unless I totally misunderstood him.

That's why I was confused, always thought 4K HDR was BT2020.

So you using standard color space BT709 with 4K resolution basically? What does the XB1S send? It says 4K 60P so isn't that basically the same as xbox X?


----------



## coderguy

raf77 said:


> JVC is not sharper.


Yes, on average the JVC has a better lens and better convergence than the average Epson. Whether or not it will always be this way, nope. No LCD/LCOS projector is always sharper than another, due to sample variance. That said, you have to know the averages. Cine4 actually had numerous samples, and going by last year, as far as average convergence and sharpness and the best lens, the JVC won, the Sony was third, and the Epsons were generally second. The Sony was actually sharper than the Epson if you get a good enough sample (supposedly), but then sharpness can be subjective.

*Sources:*
Cine4, Z10K's comparisons, numerous other comparisons in this forum, and 2 others dealers I know (one which I know semi-personally)

The higher spacing of the Epson pixel grid can make an image look sharper than an LCOS projector sometimes, but in reality when looking at very small text, the JVC will usually be sharper if you compare sample to sample.

This is NOT a knock on the Epson, as most people probably wouldn't care much from their seating position. It's not like the Epson is a bad projector, but we do have to be honest about certain things in this forum (as much as we possibly can).


----------



## Dominic Chan

raf77 said:


> JVC is not sharper.


I had both projectors and found that, with 4K source, the JVC is visibly sharper than the Epson. With 1080p source they are comparable, although the Epson Image Enhancement can make a big improvement visually.

On the other hand, the Epson is faster when resynching to different resolution or frame rates - a few seconds vs almost 20 seconds. It also works with my Samsung K8500 UHD player, and the JVC doesn’t.

The convergence is better on my Epson but clearly that varies with each unit.


----------



## coderguy

Dominic Chan said:


> I had both projectors and found that, with 4K source, the JVC is visibly sharper than the Epson. With 1080p source they are comparable, although the Epson Image Enhancement can make a big improvement visually.
> 
> 
> The convergence is better on my Epson but clearly that varies with each unit.


Yah, compared to the old days, all these projectors have improved on sharpness. JVC made the first leap around the RS-40/45/46/50/55/56/60/65/66 series.
Back in those days, I had compared my JVC to an Epson, oh man the JVC was way sharper, but the Epson had bad convergence (about 3/4 pixel off on red).

Epsons, JVC, and Sony's have all improved on sharpness. The problem is the sample variance, and what is the likelihood, it seems Sony (based on last year, not this year) had the largest sample variance. Cine4Home specifically complained about seeing some Sony's that looked near perfect and were about the same as JVC's sharpness (other than maybe a slight difference in lens uniformity), but he also said the Sony's were all over the map more so than the JVC. Epson was kind of between the two from how I gathered it.

If you can get a really good sample, you may have an Epson that is sharper than many JVC's, depends.


----------



## bukiwhitey

vpn75 said:


> Can someone confirm whether or not the 5040UBE can support 4K60/HDR via the wireless interface using nVidia Shield? I was hoping I could get HDR to work at 4K from my HTPC using the wireless interface. How is the lag with this method? I mainly play single-player games so hoping it won't be much of an issue.


This will not work.

You would have to set the Shield to SDR, or 4k HDR at 24 hz.


----------



## Uppsalaing

jwhn said:


> One thing to consider as you continue trying to optimize the settings is that streaming 4K / HDR is not the same as physical disks with a UHD player due to compression, etc.. I believe that both Dave's and Olerdut's settings were done using UHD players. So I'm not sure we can expect the same eye-popping picture quality that they are getting with those settings when streaming.


Thanks... i did not know this... I still have experimenting with the various streaming sources to see which I like best...

Blu ray discs and Apple TV rentals were my main media before getting this projector and they've never looked so good to me


----------



## Juiced46

Uppsalaing said:


> Yes.
> 
> We're at a stage of the technology where as a consumer we have to look into the details to make sure things work for our purpose... TVs are a couple of generations ahead of projectors in specifications so fewer challenges there, but a projector is a different experience, so we just have to be a lot more carefull as buyers... It's a bad situation and I'm sure a lot of people got caught by this. No one wants to make a $2,500 - 3,500 mistake!
> 
> For movies 4K seems to have less impact than HDR, especially if your projector has upscaling as these Epsons do... I don't know how it works for gaming.


That is the thing. I did research. I read what I could on the forums. Its tough to read all 11,000 posts prior to purchasing an item. I read Epsons literature on their site directly. its extremely vague. Once would assume if they advertise 4K/HDR that it would support the 2 gaming consoles that are out. 



robc1976 said:


> I was wondering, my calibrator told me anything in 4K is BT2020 color space. I had a 4K calibration file that was 4K SDR that I wanted to use for the XB1S (4K enabled via'XB1S) and he said to use the 1080P SDR file as it was BT709 unless I totally misunderstood him.
> 
> That's why I was confused, always thought 4K HDR was BT2020.
> 
> So you using standard color space BT709 with 4K resolution basically? What does the XB1S send? It says 4K 60P so isn't that basically the same as xbox X?


Your calibrator is wrong. 4K is just the resolution, not the color space. You can have 4K SDR BT 709. That or you simply misunderstood him. 

4K/HDR IS BT2020. HOWEVER, the Projector does not support that. 

Xbox 1 S sends out (for a 4K HDR capable game) 4K/60hz HDR BT2020. The problem is, the Epson does not support it. So you do not get it. The Epson changes it to 4K/60hz SDR BT709. BT709 is SDR BT2020 is HDR. 

With the Xbox One S, you will never be able to get 4K/60hz BT2020 HDR while gaming, ever, its impossible.

You CAN get 4K HDR through the Xbox One S with UHD Discs. This comes in as 4K/24hz HDR BT2020 12 Bit. 

With the new X coming out, you still not get 4K/60hz HDR BT2020 when gaming. If you had an LED or OLED TV that supports it then it would work. Flat out, the Epson cannot take that signal. So your options are 4K/SDR on the Xbox One S. The X is still an unknown, hopefully its like PS4 then you can get 1080p/HDR if you want to use HDR, but you cannot get 4K and HDR when gaming. Its one other the other.


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> Your calibrator is wrong. 4K is just the resolution, not the color space. You can have 4K SDR BT 709. That or you simply misunderstood him.
> 
> 4K/HDR IS BT2020. HOWEVER, the Projector does not support that.
> 
> Xbox 1 S sends out (for a 4K HDR capable game) 4K/60hz HDR BT2020. The problem is, the Epson does not support it. So you do not get it. The Epson changes it to 4K/60hz SDR BT709. BT709 is SDR BT2020 is HDR.
> 
> With the Xbox One S, you will never be able to get 4K/60hz BT2020 HDR while gaming, ever, its impossible.
> 
> You CAN get 4K HDR through the Xbox One S with UHD Discs. This comes in as 4K/24hz HDR BT2020 12 Bit.
> 
> With the new X coming out, you still not get 4K/60hz HDR BT2020 when gaming. If you had an LED or OLED TV that supports it then it would work. Flat out, the Epson cannot take that signal. So your options are 4K/SDR on the Xbox One S. The X is still an unknown, hopefully its like PS4 then you can get 1080p/HDR if you want to use HDR, but you cannot get 4K and HDR when gaming. Its one other the other.


That is some great info man, I thank you for taking the time to write all this, can you give your opinion on this

I usually have the XB1S send 1080p then left the epson do the 4K enhancement, is it better to put the XB1S in 4K via the settings? 

2. I use my 1080P 709 calibration file for this, as recommended by calibrator. Is that correct? Wouldn't I want a 4K SDR BT709 file? I am guessing he said to use the 1080p file because the colors are calibrated to bt709 so they would be accurate, resolution just changes?


----------



## spirithockey79

Juiced46 said:


> That is the thing. I did research. I read what I could on the forums. Its tough to read all 11,000 posts prior to purchasing an item. I read Epsons literature on their site directly. its extremely vague. Once would assume if they advertise 4K/HDR that it would support the 2 gaming consoles that are out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your calibrator is wrong. 4K is just the resolution, not the color space. You can have 4K SDR BT 709. That or you simply misunderstood him.
> 
> 
> 
> 4K/HDR IS BT2020. HOWEVER, the Projector does not support that.
> 
> 
> 
> Xbox 1 S sends out (for a 4K HDR capable game) 4K/60hz HDR BT2020. The problem is, the Epson does not support it. So you do not get it. The Epson changes it to 4K/60hz SDR BT709. BT709 is SDR BT2020 is HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> With the Xbox One S, you will never be able to get 4K/60hz BT2020 HDR while gaming, ever, its impossible.
> 
> 
> 
> You CAN get 4K HDR through the Xbox One S with UHD Discs. This comes in as 4K/24hz HDR BT2020 12 Bit.
> 
> 
> 
> With the new X coming out, you still not get 4K/60hz HDR BT2020 when gaming. If you had an LED or OLED TV that supports it then it would work. Flat out, the Epson cannot take that signal. So your options are 4K/SDR on the Xbox One S. The X is still an unknown, hopefully its like PS4 then you can get 1080p/HDR if you want to use HDR, but you cannot get 4K and HDR when gaming. Its one other the other.




Just to clarify something, the pj does support 4K HDR BT2020. Did you mean to say I doesn’t support 4k/60 HDR BT2020? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## SethMan919

SethMan919 said:


> Who has upgraded from a 5030ub? I'm very much on the fence. I've been wanting to upgrade for a while and some of the features like power lens shift and zoom might make it worth it even without the eShift.
> 
> My theater is fully light controlled with an Elite Screens 130" . Anyone make the upgrade and can comment? Also been looking a the optoma UHD65, but the limited lens shift kind of scares me.


Well I went with the 5040uB. Just finally got it all set up last night. After installing it i found that my older Pioneer Elite SC-61 wouldnt play nice with 4k and the sony ubp-x800 i bought to go with it. I ended up having to upgrade my AVR to the Pioneer Elite SC-VX502. I have obilivion on 4k sitting here waiting to try. one of my favorite movies for stunning visuals. Can't wait to try it.


----------



## Uppsalaing

SethMan919 said:


> Well I went with the 5040uB. Just finally got it all set up last night. After installing it i found that my older Pioneer Elite SC-61 wouldnt play nice with 4k and the sony ubp-x800 i bought to go with it. I ended up having to upgrade my AVR to the Pioneer Elite SC-VX502. I have obilivion on 4k sitting here waiting to try. one of my favorite movies for stunning visuals. Can't wait to try it.


Congratulations... let us know what you think


----------



## jpgfontes

Should the harpervision and Oledurt's settings work well for games too? I have a FIFA 18 demo that outputs HDR with the PS4, but wasn't so pleased with the picture using those settings. Overall, I found the picture too dark.

Sharing my experience, last night, wanting to tryout Netflix's HDR with the Epson, I installed a nougat beta for the MI BOX 3. The stable version still is a Marshmallow one, so no HDR is supported.
Although I managed to get HDR with 4k, I was frustrated to find out that I can't get a BT2020 signal. Probably a beta limitation of the MI box 3 OS.
Since it is only outputting REC709, Epson is able to play 4k HDR/60hz (with REC709). But due to that, colors are not right. All seems too washed out.
My guess is Netflix is outputting BT2020 HDR 4K but the MI BOX 3 is converting the signal to REC709...
Being a beta, even if I disable HDR on OS's settings, Netflix still outputs HDR. 
Until a nougat stable version comes, I'll probably won't be able to watch a Netflix HDR source via the MIBOX3.

One doubt: since the PS4 outputs HDR 1080p, is there anyway to stream Amazon prime or netflix 1080p HDR?
Thanks!


----------



## Juiced46

robc1976 said:


> That is some great info man, I thank you for taking the time to write all this, can you give your opinion on this
> 
> I usually have the XB1S send 1080p then left the epson do the 4K enhancement, is it better to put the XB1S in 4K via the settings?
> 
> 2. I use my 1080P 709 calibration file for this, as recommended by calibrator. Is that correct? Wouldn't I want a 4K SDR BT709 file? I am guessing he said to use the 1080p file because the colors are calibrated to bt709 so they would be accurate, resolution just changes?


No problem, on my XB1S I have it set to output 4K from the system. No upscaling. Use your 4K/BT709 calibration and you are good to go. 



spirithockey79 said:


> Just to clarify something, the pj does support 4K HDR BT2020. Did you mean to say I doesn’t support 4k/60 HDR BT2020?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sort of, so the PJ supports 4K HDR, BUT only certain refresh rates. So for your standard UHD Blu Ray that outputs 4K/24hz, it will work. You get 4K/24hz HDR BT2020. What it DOES NOT support is 4K/60hz HDR BT2020. This means, you will never ever be able to game on Xbox 1s, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro etc using 4K AND HDR BT2020 since consoles output at 4K/60hz, it just simply will not work 

Your choices are
Xbox One S-4K/60hz SDR BT709 only
PS4 Pro- 4K/60hz SDR BT709
or 1080p/60hz HDR BT2020.

Xbox One X, is unknown. Hopefully they do like PS4 Pro does and gives the you option. At this point you need to pick your poison. 

Do you want 4K and NO HDR when gaming?

Or

Do you want 1080p upscaled to 4K and HAVE HDR. (this comment is solely for gaming)

Like I said for movie UHD watching, the 5040 will do 4K/24hz HDR BT2020



jpgfontes said:


> Should the harpervision and Oledurt's settings work well for games too? I have a FIFA 18 demo that outputs HDR with the PS4, but wasn't so pleased with the picture using those settings. Overall, I found the picture too dark.
> 
> Sharing my experience, last night, wanting to tryout Netflix's HDR with the Epson, I installed a nougat beta for the MI BOX 3. The stable version still is a Marshmallow one, so no HDR is supported.
> Although I managed to get HDR with 4k, I was frustrated to find out that I can't get a BT2020 signal. Probably a beta limitation of the MI box 3 OS.
> Since it is only outputting REC709, Epson is able to play 4k HDR/60hz (with REC709). But due to that, colors are not right. All seems too washed out.
> My guess is Netflix is outputting BT2020 HDR 4K but the MI BOX 3 is converting the signal to REC709...
> Being a beta, even if I disable HDR on OS's settings, Netflix still outputs HDR.
> Until a nougat stable version comes, I'll probably won't be able to watch a Netflix HDR source via the MIBOX3.
> 
> One doubt: since the PS4 outputs HDR 1080p, is there anyway to stream Amazon prime or netflix 1080p HDR?
> Thanks!


On PS4 Pro and gaming, specifically Fifa and GT Sport I use the Harpervision settings. You have to make sure you are setting your Dynamic range to SDR manually or it will be dark. It looks fantastic for me.


----------



## inspector

SethMan919 said:


> Well I went with the 5040uB. Just finally got it all set up last night. After installing it i found that my older Pioneer Elite SC-61 wouldnt play nice with 4k and the sony ubp-x800 i bought to go with it. I ended up having to upgrade my AVR to the Pioneer Elite SC-VX502. I have obilivion on 4k sitting here waiting to try. one of my favorite movies for stunning visuals. Can't wait to try it.


 

I have the 6040 and use a high speed HDMI cable to go from the PJ to my Sammy 3D/4K player. I then use my regular HDMI cable from the Sammy to my 6 year old 7.2 Onkyo receiver. Still gets the sound I want without having to buy a new receiver. 


If I ever go to Atmos, then I will need a new receiver.


----------



## Nutdotnet

jpgfontes said:


> Should the harpervision and Oledurt's settings work well for games too? I have a FIFA 18 demo that outputs HDR with the PS4, but wasn't so pleased with the picture using those settings. Overall, I found the picture too dark.
> 
> 
> 
> Sharing my experience, last night, wanting to tryout Netflix's HDR with the Epson, I installed a nougat beta for the MI BOX 3. The stable version still is a Marshmallow one, so no HDR is supported.
> 
> Although I managed to get HDR with 4k, I was frustrated to find out that I can't get a BT2020 signal. Probably a beta limitation of the MI box 3 OS.
> 
> Since it is only outputting REC709, Epson is able to play 4k HDR/60hz (with REC709). But due to that, colors are not right. All seems too washed out.
> 
> My guess is Netflix is outputting BT2020 HDR 4K but the MI BOX 3 is converting the signal to REC709...
> 
> Being a beta, even if I disable HDR on OS's settings, Netflix still outputs HDR.
> 
> Until a nougat stable version comes, I'll probably won't be able to watch a Netflix HDR source via the MIBOX3.
> 
> 
> 
> One doubt: since the PS4 outputs HDR 1080p, is there anyway to stream Amazon prime or netflix 1080p HDR?
> 
> Thanks!




Most of your post is inaccurate. Go back only one or two pages and you’ll learn why.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BongoJesus

*Firmware Update Troubles*

Hi All,

I'm having difficulty updating the firmware on the 5040. I've tried two thumb drives with no luck. I've downloaded the current .bin file and dump it directly to the thumb drive. I've followed all of Epson's instructions, but the PJ just continues to cycle on and off with no update, no "75 seconds of flashing". Only video I have found is the one from AVS saying how easy it is. I'm usually pretty good at these things but just can't seem to get it to go. Any suggestions would be great. Either how you guys did it, what the menu looks like after it's updated, even your favorite color would help at this point.

Thanx,

Kevin


----------



## gene4ht

Dominic Chan said:


> I *had* both projectors ...


Your signature indicates you *have* both projectors. Just curious...do you have both. If not, which one did you keep and why?


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> No problem, on my XB1S I have it set to output 4K from the system. No upscaling. Use your 4K/BT709 calibration and you are good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> Sort of, so the PJ supports 4K HDR, BUT only certain refresh rates. So for your standard UHD Blu Ray that outputs 4K/24hz, it will work. You get 4K/24hz HDR BT2020. What it DOES NOT support is 4K/60hz HDR BT2020. This means, you will never ever be able to game on Xbox 1s, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro etc using 4K AND HDR BT2020 since consoles output at 4K/60hz, it just simply will not work
> 
> Your choices are
> Xbox One S-4K/60hz SDR BT709 only
> PS4 Pro- 4K/60hz SDR BT709
> or 1080p/60hz HDR BT2020.
> 
> Xbox One X, is unknown. Hopefully they do like PS4 Pro does and gives the you option. At this point you need to pick your poison.
> 
> Do you want 4K and NO HDR when gaming?
> 
> Or
> 
> Do you want 1080p upscaled to 4K and HAVE HDR. (this comment is solely for gaming)
> 
> Like I said for movie UHD watching, the 5040 will do 4K/24hz HDR BT2020
> 
> 
> 
> On PS4 Pro and gaming, specifically Fifa and GT Sport I use the Harpervision settings. You have to make sure you are setting your Dynamic range to SDR manually or it will be dark. It looks fantastic for me.


 Also, noticed the xbox X is 2.0 HDMI some receivers like Denon require a 2.2HDCP if I am not mistaken. My X7200WA has 2.2 just like the 5040.


----------



## Juiced46

robc1976 said:


> Also, noticed the xbox X is 2.0 HDMI some receivers like Denon require a 2.2HDCP if I am not mistaken. My X7200WA has 2.2 just like the 5040.


My 4300 is HDMI 2.0 HDCp 2.2. Im good


----------



## ht guy

inspector said:


> I have the 6040 and use a high speed HDMI cable to go from the PJ to my Sammy 3D/4K player. I then use my regular HDMI cable from the Sammy to my 6 year old 7.2 Onkyo receiver. Still gets the sound I want without having to buy a new receiver.
> 
> If I ever go to Atmos, then I will need a new receiver.


...or, if you're like me, if you ever get a new pre/pro to handle all 4k inputs, and it also handles Atmos, you'll have to get a 2nd 5 channel amp and install 4 more speakers so you can have Atmos!


----------



## jpgfontes

Nutdotnet said:


> jpgfontes said:
> 
> 
> 
> Should the harpervision and Oledurt's settings work well for games too? I have a FIFA 18 demo that outputs HDR with the PS4, but wasn't so pleased with the picture using those settings. Overall, I found the picture too dark.
> 
> 
> 
> Sharing my experience, last night, wanting to tryout Netflix's HDR with the Epson, I installed a nougat beta for the MI BOX 3. The stable version still is a Marshmallow one, so no HDR is supported.
> 
> Although I managed to get HDR with 4k, I was frustrated to find out that I can't get a BT2020 signal. Probably a beta limitation of the MI box 3 OS.
> 
> Since it is only outputting REC709, Epson is able to play 4k HDR/60hz (with REC709). But due to that, colors are not right. All seems too washed out.
> 
> My guess is Netflix is outputting BT2020 HDR 4K but the MI BOX 3 is converting the signal to REC709...
> 
> Being a beta, even if I disable HDR on OS's settings, Netflix still outputs HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Until a nougat stable version comes, I'll probably won't be able to watch a Netflix HDR source via the MIBOX3.
> 
> 
> 
> One doubt: since the PS4 outputs HDR 1080p, is there anyway to stream Amazon prime or netflix 1080p HDR?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of your post is inaccurate. Go back only one or two pages and you?ll learn why.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Maybe you could be kind enough to point out where I am inaccurate.
I've been following the forum last 20-30 pages and I'm well aware of Netflix outputing 1080p HDr when shield is set to 4k 24hz (if that's what you are referring to). I'm also aware the epson can't output 4k 60hz HDR (BT2020), but since MIBOX is outputting REC709 color space, Epson's HDR is turning on even on 4k 60hz. With the same settings, 4k non HDR content in NETFLIX is showing the 4kUltra logo. The thing is every Netflix HDR content is presenting poor colors due to the REC709 output of the box.
Since I haven't seen anyone here using MIBOX 3, I'm bringing something I diagnosed: the nougat beta release for it enables HDR, but I'm not being able to get BT2020 out of it.
Maybe you could point out where I'm not accurate.


----------



## Uppsalaing

jpgfontes said:


> Maybe you could be kind enough to point out where I am inaccurate.
> I've been following the forum last 20-30 pages and I'm well aware of Netflix outputing 1080p HDr when shield is set to 4k 24hz (if that's what you are referring to). I'm also aware the epson can't output 4k 60hz HDR (BT2020), but since MIBOX is outputting REC709 color space, Epson's HDR is turning on even on 4k 60hz. With the same settings, 4k non HDR content in NETFLIX is showing the 4kUltra logo. The thing is every Netflix HDR content is presenting poor colors due to the REC709 output of the box.
> Since I haven't seen anyone here using MIBOX 3, I'm bringing something I diagnosed: the nougat beta release for it enables HDR, but I'm not being able to get BT2020 out of it.
> Maybe you could point out where I'm not accurate.


My understaning is that SDR means the colours are set according to the BT709 standard, and that in HDR the colours are set according to the BT2020 standard... You can't mix and match as I understand it, otherwise the colours will not be accurate.

Resolutions of 1080p or 4K are separate from these colour standards, so can be either SDR or HDR.

Now, as to what your PS4 is outputting, I don't know.

Check out post #11250 on this thread...

Disclaimer: I'm new to this as well.


----------



## Azekecse

BongoJesus said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I'm having difficulty updating the firmware on the 5040. I've tried two thumb drives with no luck. I've downloaded the current .bin file and dump it directly to the thumb drive. I've followed all of Epson's instructions, but the PJ just continues to cycle on and off with no update, no "75 seconds of flashing". Only video I have found is the one from AVS saying how easy it is. I'm usually pretty good at these things but just can't seem to get it to go. Any suggestions would be great. Either how you guys did it, what the menu looks like after it's updated, even your favorite color would help at this point.
> 
> Thanx,
> 
> Kevin


Ensure the following:

1). The USB is formatted via Fat32, nothing else works well
2). Place the Bin file at the root of the drive (I have a dedicated USB just for the projector)
3). Ensure you are placing the USB Stick in the USB A port of the projector
4). Follow the proper sequence for installation http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf

Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Dominic Chan

Uppsalaing said:


> My understaning is that SDR means the colours are set according to the BT709 standard, and that in HDR the colours are set according to the BT2020 standard... You can't mix and match as I understand it, otherwise the colours will not be accurate.


Not entirely correct. BT.709 is indeed "standard" (i.e., non-wide) colour gamut and SDR. However, BT.2020 is still SDR, but with wide colour gamut and 4K/8K resolution.
Resolution (1080p or 2K, 4K, 8K) are in principle independent of dynamic range (SDR, HDR), and also independent of colour gamut, although only some of the combination of the three entities are considered standard.


----------



## Nutdotnet

Hey all...I’m really close on jumping on a new projector. I have a 5020 that I really like, but I really want to jump over to HDR.

I’m juggling between a 5040UB (actually the UBE) and a JVC420.

If the price difference wasn’t of concern - it seems on paper like the 420 is the better buy with its 18Gbps. Since I like to game, and have a One X on order, I believe the 420 is the only one that can do 4K and HDR at 60fps. Heck, I’d be happy with the Epson if it did 4K and HDR at 30...

What differences am I missing that would put the Epson ahead? I really like Epson...other than my own preference of getting the wireless version to avoid figuring out a 50 foot cable run. That’s something I’ll need to do with the JVC.

Any insight is most appreciated.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

Dominic Chan said:


> Not entirely correct. BT.709 is indeed "standard" (i.e., non-wide) colour gamut and SDR. However, BT.2020 is still SDR, but with wide colour gamut and 4K/8K resolution.
> Resolution (1080p or 2K, 4K, 8K) are in principle independent of dynamic range (SDR, HDR), and also independent of colour gamut, although only some of the combination of the three entities are considered standard.


Ah... I see... So, I suppose HDR means it has to conform to even further specs like 10 bit colour bit depth and such?

Also, wouldn't it be correct to say that HDR10, i.e. the content we're streaming and on UHD discs, requires BT.2020 colour?


----------



## WynsWrld98

Nutdotnet said:


> Hey all...I’m really close on jumping on a new projector. I have a 5020 that I really like, but I really want to jump over to HDR.
> 
> I’m juggling between a 5040UB (actually the UBE) and a JVC420.
> 
> If the price difference wasn’t of concern - it seems on paper like the 420 is the better buy with its 18Gbps. Since I like to game, and have a One X on order, I believe the 420 is the only one that can do 4K and HDR at 60fps. Heck, I’d be happy with the Epson if it did 4K and HDR at 30...
> 
> What differences am I missing that would put the Epson ahead? I really like Epson...other than my own preference of getting the wireless version to avoid figuring out a 50 foot cable run. That’s something I’ll need to do with the JVC.
> 
> Any insight is most appreciated.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Compare lamp replacement costs of the Epson and the JVC. Also not sure if you're looking at a used RS420 or a closeout (new) RS420 but make sure you get a JVC that has the CMD banding fix. The RS440 has the fix and some of the more recently released RS420s have the fix but if it doesn't have it I believe you can send it in and they'll fix the issue.


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> My 4300 is HDMI 2.0 HDCp 2.2. Im good


 just realized mine is to, if it want ymy xb1s wouldn't work lol


----------



## Juiced46

jpgfontes said:


> Maybe you could be kind enough to point out where I am inaccurate.
> I've been following the forum last 20-30 pages and I'm well aware of Netflix outputing 1080p HDr when shield is set to 4k 24hz (if that's what you are referring to). I'm also aware the epson can't output 4k 60hz HDR (BT2020), but since MIBOX is outputting REC709 color space, Epson's HDR is turning on even on 4k 60hz. With the same settings, 4k non HDR content in NETFLIX is showing the 4kUltra logo. The thing is every Netflix HDR content is presenting poor colors due to the REC709 output of the box.
> Since I haven't seen anyone here using MIBOX 3, I'm bringing something I diagnosed: the nougat beta release for it enables HDR, but I'm not being able to get BT2020 out of it.
> Maybe you could point out where I'm not accurate.


I am not familiar with the MIBOX at all but I just want to tell you my experience with Netflix. When I scroll through Netflix using the App through the Xbox OneS. It says on the title menus "4K UHD HDR" However, when I actually play the title, it is indeed NOT HDR. I am not sure how Netflix on the Xbox Outputs UHD content, I "hear" they out put @ 4K/60hz HDR (Unsupported signal for Epson). So when I check my projector info screen, I am indeed only getting an SDR signal. So, my assumption is (I can be totally wrong here) Yes, the title screen shows 4K UHD HDR, however, the projector cannot accept the signal it is receiving from your MIBOX just like my Xbox One S and converts it to SDR.

Amazon Prime on the other hand does it differently. And you receive movie content in 4K/24hz HDR BT2020. 



Nutdotnet said:


> Hey all...I’m really close on jumping on a new projector. I have a 5020 that I really like, but I really want to jump over to HDR.
> 
> I’m juggling between a 5040UB (actually the UBE) and a JVC420.
> 
> If the price difference wasn’t of concern - it seems on paper like the 420 is the better buy with its 18Gbps. Since I like to game, and have a One X on order, I believe the 420 is the only one that can do 4K and HDR at 60fps. Heck, I’d be happy with the Epson if it did 4K and HDR at 30...
> 
> What differences am I missing that would put the Epson ahead? I really like Epson...other than my own preference of getting the wireless version to avoid figuring out a 50 foot cable run. That’s something I’ll need to do with the JVC.
> 
> Any insight is most appreciated.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Just to clarify it is not FPS its Hz. The Epson will not be able to do 4K/60hz HDR when gaming. It can do 30 or 60FPS surely in any mode. But do not get the 2 confused. 4K/24, 4K/60 is Hz and has nothing to do with the framerate when gaming. As for the JVC, I have no experience with that projector. But if it does 4k/60hz HDR that is awesome. I just looked through the JVC manual quickly. It looks like it will do 4K/60hz HDR but ONLY 8 bit. You cannot do 10-12bit in this mode. I believe the 5040 UBe in wireless mode may be able to do this as well. So that is something to keep in mind. Also I am not sure what the lag times are on the JVC compared to the 5040, the 5040 lag times are low.


----------



## jpgfontes

Juiced46 said:


> I am not familiar with the MIBOX at all but I just want to tell you my experience with Netflix. When I scroll through Netflix using the App through the Xbox OneS. It says on the title menus "4K UHD HDR" However, when I actually play the title, it is indeed NOT HDR. I am not sure how Netflix on the Xbox Outputs UHD content, I "hear" they out put @ 4K/60hz HDR (Unsupported signal for Epson). So when I check my projector info screen, I am indeed only getting an SDR signal. So, my assumption is (I can be totally wrong here) Yes, the title screen shows 4K UHD HDR, however, the projector cannot accept the signal it is receiving from your MIBOX just like my Xbox One S and converts it to SDR.
> 
> Amazon Prime on the other hand does it differently. And you receive movie content in 4K/24hz HDR BT2020.


In my case, NETFLIX shows HDR in the menu and when I go to the projector's info screen, it shows 4k, HDR, BUT with REC 709. This results in poor colors and I'm pretty sure it is caused by the MIBOX. Since it's a beta Nougat, I suppose the BT2020 is not yet implemented.


----------



## Barana2080

Hello. Trying to decide if updating to Epson 5040 will yield a much better experience than my current 3500. I have a 135 inch screen (pic attached ) so you can see my current set up. Will I see a difference based on my room condition? Thanks










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nutdotnet

jpgfontes said:


> Maybe you could be kind enough to point out where I am inaccurate.
> 
> I've been following the forum last 20-30 pages and I'm well aware of Netflix outputing 1080p HDr when shield is set to 4k 24hz (if that's what you are referring to). I'm also aware the epson can't output 4k 60hz HDR (BT2020), but since MIBOX is outputting REC709 color space, Epson's HDR is turning on even on 4k 60hz. With the same settings, 4k non HDR content in NETFLIX is showing the 4kUltra logo. The thing is every Netflix HDR content is presenting poor colors due to the REC709 output of the box.
> 
> Since I haven't seen anyone here using MIBOX 3, I'm bringing something I diagnosed: the nougat beta release for it enables HDR, but I'm not being able to get BT2020 out of it.
> 
> Maybe you could point out where I'm not accurate.




Hey, thanks for looking through the manual. That info helps.

Back to where I do have some knowledge.

Hz IS FPS. They are the same. 24hz is 24fps. 30hz is 30fps, etc, etc.

The Epson can do 4K/60. What it cannot do is 4K/60 and HDR. 

This thread wouldn’t be this large if it could. 

Hope this helps!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Nutdotnet said:


> Hey, thanks for looking through the manual. That info helps.
> 
> Back to where I do have some knowledge.
> 
> Hz IS FPS. They are the same. 24hz is 24fps. 30hz is 30fps, etc, etc.
> 
> The Epson can do 4K/60. What it cannot do is 4K/60 and HDR.
> 
> This thread wouldn’t be this large if it could.
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes and no. The Hz is the cap on the frame rate that it can handle. However, if you have a game that is outputting 30fps, even though you are on 4K/60hz signal, you are still getting 30 FPS not 60 FPS. I should have clarified my statement a bit.

But you are correct, this projector just simply cannot handle 4K/60hz HDR while gaming which sucks.


----------



## jpgfontes

Nutdotnet said:


> Hey, thanks for looking through the manual. That info helps.
> 
> Back to where I do have some knowledge.
> 
> Hz IS FPS. They are the same. 24hz is 24fps. 30hz is 30fps, etc, etc.
> 
> The Epson can do 4K/60. What it cannot do is 4K/60 and HDR.
> 
> This thread wouldn’t be this large if it could.
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I know it can't do 4k/60hz with BT2020 HDR, as it has been stated many times here.
But apparently it will output 4k 60hz HDR with REC 709. I didn't know that, but this is what Epson is showing in the info screen. Nonetheless this is not a standard that is used, so you won't get right picture out of it.
I'm thinking maybe REC 709 uses less bandwidth or maybe it's an error of the epson reading the signal gotten from MIBOX.
Anyway, I'm convinced the rec709 HDR signal the epson is getting comes from some bug in the nougat beta.

Update: I tried a different beta and managed to get BT2020 with HDR. But mibox only outputs 8bit color (epson shows 4k, 60hz, bt2020, HDR but with 8bit colors). With this signal colors still don't seem right.
Since it's a MIBOX issue, I won't bring the subject anymore here in the epson thread. Thanks!


----------



## Dylan

Juiced46 said:


> Your choices are
> Xbox One S-4K/60hz SDR BT709 only
> PS4 Pro- 4K/60hz SDR BT709
> or 1080p/60hz HDR BT2020.
> 
> Xbox One X, is unknown. Hopefully they do like PS4 Pro does and gives the you option. At this point you need to pick your poison.
> 
> Do you want 4K and NO HDR when gaming?
> 
> Or
> 
> Do you want 1080p upscaled to 4K and HAVE HDR. (this comment is solely for gaming)


Thanks for the clear explanation. This stuff is ridiculously complicated and not consumer friendly.

Does this mean there is no point in upgrading from a PS4 first gen to a Pro to use with the 5040?


----------



## migsta

HDR won't enable on new Apple TV 4K. Any ideas what's wrong or what I have to change. Just comes back and says I may need to enable Deep Color on my TV. I have the 6040UB with the Anthem AVM60.


----------



## jacksork

New to the site and sorry if this has been mentioned before but I didn't feel like searching through 377 pages for an answer. I currently have the Epson 5040ube projecting to a 106 in screen. I predominantly use the wireless transmitter for viewing content but can use a cable if I need too (cable would be exposed running to the back of the room so not ideal but acceptable if I'm the only one viewing). I use the most current Hopper for my satellite and streaming Netflix and original PS4 for blu-ray, Amazon, and gaming. I have a Denon AVRX4300H for my receiver and 7.2.2 ATMOS. The main question I have is whether or not there is a noticeable difference viewing 4k blu ray versus 1080 blu-rays. I don't want to invest in a 4k blu ray player and the added costs of the 4k discs if the upgrade in visuals is minor. I know the projector doesn't do true 4k and is supposed to upgrade the 1080 signal. How do the two compare. Secondly, and I'm sure this can't be answered yet since the XBOX one X isn't out until tomorrow, but I'm considering using this as the 4k blu ray player. Any thoughts?

Thanks


----------



## koberlin1

migsta said:


> HDR won't enable on new Apple TV 4K. Any ideas what's wrong or what I have to change. Just comes back and says I may need to enable Deep Color on my TV. I have the 6040UB with the Anthem AVM60.


You need to manually set the AppleTV to 4K HDR @ 24Hz, don't use Auto. You will end up with 4K HDR 24Hz 12 bit 4:2:2 (have attached a screenshot), as has been pointed out here the 6040 will not do a higher refresh rate than 24 Hz with BT.2020. If this is not working for you then I imagine it is an HDMI cable issue or your Anthem is not passing the signal properly from the AppleTV 4K to the 6040UB. With this AppleTV + 6040UB configuration I have noticed a few things: 

- I have noticed some choppy playback results when viewing HDR content on the AppleTV...very noticeable with moving text. Deadpool (from the iTunes store) opening credits offers up a good example of this issue.
- the output is very DIM....you can change to HDR1 in the 6040's Dynamic Range menu item which brightens it up quite a bit though. However the 6040 defaults to the HDR2 mode when the Dynamic Range is set to "Auto". Supposedly the latest 6040 firmware release from August addresses this issue and allows for you to choose HDR1 as the default Auto choice but even after employing the FW update I have not been able to get it to do this and always have to manually select HDR1 which is lame.

Also here is a good link to an Apple forum where people are posting their results with the AppleTV 4K and their displays.


----------



## Juiced46

Dylan said:


> Thanks for the clear explanation. This stuff is ridiculously complicated and not consumer friendly.
> 
> Does this mean there is no point in upgrading from a PS4 first gen to a Pro to use with the 5040?


I upgraded to a Pro from a regular PS4. However, I never used the regular PS4 with the 5040. A user on here said a NON Pro PS4 still does HDR, I am not sure if that is true or not. If it is not true, going to a Pro will get you HDR gaming, but only in 1080p. When I use the PS4 Pro to game, I use 1080p upscaled to 4K with HDR. I recently traded in my regular Ps4 for a Pro and they gave me $175, so to me it was a no brainer to upgrade. 



jacksork said:


> New to the site and sorry if this has been mentioned before but I didn't feel like searching through 377 pages for an answer. I currently have the Epson 5040ube projecting to a 106 in screen. I predominantly use the wireless transmitter for viewing content but can use a cable if I need too (cable would be exposed running to the back of the room so not ideal but acceptable if I'm the only one viewing). I use the most current Hopper for my satellite and streaming Netflix and original PS4 for blu-ray, Amazon, and gaming. I have a Denon AVRX4300H for my receiver and 7.2.2 ATMOS. The main question I have is whether or not there is a noticeable difference viewing 4k blu ray versus 1080 blu-rays. I don't want to invest in a 4k blu ray player and the added costs of the 4k discs if the upgrade in visuals is minor. I know the projector doesn't do true 4k and is supposed to upgrade the 1080 signal. How do the two compare. Secondly, and I'm sure this can't be answered yet since the XBOX one X isn't out until tomorrow, but I'm considering using this as the 4k blu ray player. Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks



The difference between 1080p and a 4K UHD Blu Ray is very noticeable with this projector. If you are going to buy an Xbox One X, I would not bother buying a separate Blu Ray player. I use an Xbox One S now, with an X on the way and the 5040 looks amazing with the S using UHD Blu Rays.


----------



## muad'dib

Nutdotnet said:


> Hey, thanks for looking through the manual. That info helps.
> 
> Back to where I do have some knowledge.
> 
> Hz IS FPS. They are the same. 24hz is 24fps. 30hz is 30fps, etc, etc.
> 
> The Epson can do 4K/60. What it cannot do is 4K/60 and HDR.
> 
> This thread wouldn’t be this large if it could.
> 
> Hope this helps!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Unless you get the HDfury linker...
I got one and set the correct settings, and now get hdr and 4k/60 from ps4 pro and xbox one s.

The setting in HDfury will send a 300mhz signal to Epson.. (can't remeber the exact color details)so it's removing something... 

Long sorry short, it looks great in 4k/60 and hdr.. 

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## NetViper

muad'dib said:


> Unless you get the HDfury linker...
> I got one and set the correct settings, and now get hdr and 4k/60 from ps4 pro and xbox one s.
> 
> The setting in HDfury will send a 300mhz signal to Epson.. (can't remeber the exact color details)so it's removing something...
> 
> Long sorry short, it looks great in 4k/60 and hdr..
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


Not being able to do 4k 60 hdr is a limitation of the chipset. How does the hd fury solve that?


----------



## hnupe

*Firmware update?*



Kelvin1000 said:


> I did the update with no problems...
> Maybe try the update again?


What did 1.10 firmware update do? I have not updated anything yet....are the updates worth it?

Thanks


----------



## muad'dib

NetViper said:


> Not being able to do 4k 60 hdr is a limitation of the chipset. How does the hd fury solve that?


Here are screen shots of HDfury linker settings..

The first photo is output (what Epson will see) and other photo is input (what xbox s or ps4 pro sees)










Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## Nutdotnet

muad'dib said:


> Here are screen shots of HDfury linker settings..
> 
> The first photo is output (what Epson will see) and other photo is input (what xbox s or ps4 pro sees)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk




I think a lot of folks here (myself included) would happily buy the fury linker if it actually provided 4/60 in HDR.

I can very well be wrong, but I’m having a hard time understanding how it can “fix” the hardware limitation that the Epson has. Just seems too good to believe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## muad'dib

Nutdotnet said:


> I think a lot of folks here (myself included) would happily buy the fury linker if it actually provided 4/60 in HDR.
> 
> I can very well be wrong, but I’m having a hard time understanding how it can “fix” the hardware limitation that the Epson has. Just seems too good to believe.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


All I can it works... And looks great..

I think HDfury is reducing data bits to aim for 300mhz bandwidth...
I just played my ps4 pro other day (the witness) in 4k/60 hdr.. Looks awesome..

Without the fury, I could not get hdr and 4k to work...



Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## fritz11

Hi!
Whats the difference between the HD Fury Integral and the HD Fury linker?
I have seen that the Integral have 2 in and 2 Outputs.Is that the only difference?
Knows somebody if i when i buy the HD Fury Integral give differnt Settings to
the Outputs?`


Sampel:
Input 1-Xbox oneS
Input 2-Hiedia Q10 pro
These 2 on 
Output 1-Epson TW 9300
Output 2-Computer Monitor


Ist also possible to cross it so that i can have Input 1 on Output 2 and Input 2 on Output 1
Hope someone can help me!
Sorry for my Bad Englisch
See you and Thanks,
Fritz


----------



## Nutdotnet

muad'dib said:


> All I can it works... And looks great..
> 
> I think HDfury is reducing data bits to aim for 300mhz bandwidth...
> I just played my ps4 pro other day (the witness) in 4k/60 hdr.. Looks awesome..
> 
> Without the fury, I could not get hdr and 4k to work...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk




So wouldn’t that still be reducing the image quality? Or not?

Just seems like this would be something someone would have recommended by now (and maybe they have in this thread...) if it actually produces 4K/60 in HDR.

I’m not telling you that your projector isn’t reporting 4K/60 and HDR - I’m just curious if it’s actually displaying it fully.

If so, sure seems like a relatively inexpensive way to overcome this projectors greatest limitation. I know I’d buy the fury if so.

Edit - sorry, I see that you already mentioned it removing “something”. I did a little more reading on the linker - wonder what chroma it’s dropping the signal down to in order to display 4K/60 and HDR? You would think it’d be lower than 4:2:0? Maybe not though?

If I pick up a 5040ube, I may pick one of these up too. Seems like it might help at least.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lennaert

*3D ghosting*

Hi all,

New member here, but I have something to contribute here.
I noticed a lot of people complaining about poor 3D performance, especially 3D ghosting and crosstalk with he Epson TW 9300/5040ub/6040ub.
I had severe ghosting with my Epson TW9300. I couldn't adjust the settings to get a good 3D picture using the screen size and 3D depth. Either the front of the image was perfect, but then the back was a big mess and vise versa. It drove me nuts for months.
Yesterday, just before sending the projector in for warranty I finally found what was causing these problems, and I havent seen this mentioned here before.

Its the IRIS! If the iris is on in 3D playback it causes severe 3D ghosting/crosstalk.

When i turned the iris off, all the ghosting/crosstalk was gone. Blu Rays like Rogue One, who were unwatchable before now played back in amazing image quality.
No ghosting whatsoever. The 3D performance is jaw dropping good.

In 3D, just switch off the iris and see what happens!


----------



## picktrekker

koberlin1 said:


> You need to manually set the AppleTV to 4K HDR @ 24Hz, don't use Auto. You will end up with 4K HDR 24Hz 12 bit 4:2:2 (have attached a screenshot), as has been pointed out here the 6040 will not do a higher refresh rate than 24 Hz with BT.2020. If this is not working for you then I imagine it is an HDMI cable issue or your Anthem is not passing the signal properly from the AppleTV 4K to the 6040UB. With this AppleTV + 6040UB configuration I have noticed a few things:
> 
> - I have noticed some choppy playback results when viewing HDR content on the AppleTV...very noticeable with moving text. Deadpool (from the iTunes store) opening credits offers up a good example of this issue.
> - the output is very DIM....you can change to HDR1 in the 6040's Dynamic Range menu item which brightens it up quite a bit though. However the 6040 defaults to the HDR2 mode when the Dynamic Range is set to "Auto". Supposedly the latest 6040 firmware release from August addresses this issue and allows for you to choose HDR1 as the default Auto choice but even after employing the FW update I have not been able to get it to do this and always have to manually select HDR1 which is lame.
> 
> Also here is a good link to an Apple forum where people are posting their results with the AppleTV 4K and their displays.



Its a minor problem just put it on HDR1 and the image will be superb imho.


----------



## picktrekker

jacksork said:


> New to the site and sorry if this has been mentioned before but I didn't feel like searching through 377 pages for an answer. I currently have the Epson 5040ube projecting to a 106 in screen. I predominantly use the wireless transmitter for viewing content but can use a cable if I need too (cable would be exposed running to the back of the room so not ideal but acceptable if I'm the only one viewing). I use the most current Hopper for my satellite and streaming Netflix and original PS4 for blu-ray, Amazon, and gaming. I have a Denon AVRX4300H for my receiver and 7.2.2 ATMOS. The main question I have is whether or not there is a noticeable difference viewing 4k blu ray versus 1080 blu-rays. I don't want to invest in a 4k blu ray player and the added costs of the 4k discs if the upgrade in visuals is minor. I know the projector doesn't do true 4k and is supposed to upgrade the 1080 signal. How do the two compare. Secondly, and I'm sure this can't be answered yet since the XBOX one X isn't out until tomorrow, but I'm considering using this as the 4k blu ray player. Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks


I had my doubts also but blu ray player compared to an good uhd blu ray player and a 4k player disc is a world of difference on the epson imho.

I have the sony x800, I like to set the image enchanged preset mode to 5 (the sharpest image) and its really outstanding.
Also what I noticed compared to normal blu ray 1080hd is that the 1080 blu-rays play good in cinema mode or natural mode but as soon as you get an 4k (HDR) disc than the image is superb in dynamic mode or bright cinema mode (probably because of the HDR of course).

You will also notice an difference ofcourse in streaming 4k and playing 4k on a uhd player, almost no banding with an player and very good blacks and color.


----------



## picktrekker

muad'dib said:


> Unless you get the HDfury linker...
> I got one and set the correct settings, and now get hdr and 4k/60 from ps4 pro and xbox one s.
> 
> The setting in HDfury will send a 300mhz signal to Epson.. (can't remeber the exact color details)so it's removing something...
> 
> Long sorry short, it looks great in 4k/60 and hdr..
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


Really? Will buy me an HDfury then.

But if you compare it to normale mode without the HDfury alot of difference or not?
I usually indeed get 1080 HDR/59 OR 4K SDR/59 (don't know why 59 but this is what the menu shows on the epson, it is the ube version, wireless version)


----------



## Dave Harper

muad'dib said:


> Unless you get the HDfury linker...
> I got one and set the correct settings, and now get hdr and 4k/60 from ps4 pro and xbox one s.
> 
> The setting in HDfury will send a 300mhz signal to Epson.. (can't remeber the exact color details)so it's removing something...
> 
> Long sorry short, it looks great in 4k/60 and hdr..
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk





NetViper said:


> Not being able to do 4k 60 hdr is a limitation of the chipset. How does the hd fury solve that?



It's most likely forcing the source to output 4K60 4:2:0 8 bit (instead of 10 bit) in order to get HDR BT2020 at that refresh rate and to fit in under the 10.2 Gbps limitation of the HDMI input chip of the 5040. I saw the same thing when I had that combo here while I was messing around figuring out my HarperVision settings on this model. 




vagos1103gr1 said:


> Hi guys I am interesting to buy the Epson 5040b actually I am between this and the optoma UHD65. I have a 16:9 motorized screen. For CinemaScope I will need another screen or the Epson with his memory zoom can fixed CinemaScope in the same screen that I have? Another problem I Watch the movies with subtitles. Will the subtitles gonna hide with CinemaScope?



You couldn't have gone wrong choosing either projector from us, Evangelous! I'm glad we could get you all taken care of with the UHD65 though. 

If you would've bought the 5040 from me instead, I could've helped you install some awesome HarperVision settings, or done them myself though!


----------



## NetViper

Dave Harper said:


> It's most likely forcing the source to output 4K60 4:2:0 8 bit (instead of 10 bit) in order to get HDR BT2020 at that refresh rate and to fit in under the 10.2 Gbps limitation of the HDMI input chip of the 5040. I saw the same thing when I had that combo here while I was messing around figuring out my HarperVision settings on this model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You couldn't have gone wrong choosing either projector from us, Evangelous! I'm glad we could get you all taken care of with the UHD65 though.
> 
> If you would've bought the 5040 from me instead, I could've helped you install some awesome HarperVision settings, or done them myself though!


So basically it’s converting it to 8 bit like the Sony 4k 285 is doing. Maybe it’s a good solution. The Sony guys are complaining about banding a lot.
Any thoughts?


----------



## Dave Harper

NetViper said:


> So basically it’s converting it to 8 bit like the Sony 4k 285 is doing. Maybe it’s a good solution. The Sony guys are complaining about banding a lot.
> 
> Any thoughts?



Nobody has proven that's what it's doing to my knowledge. It's all theory and speculation. According to Ekki of Cine4Home he confirms its using the 4K60 10 bit signal and the banding is something else, at least the last I recall hearing anyway.


----------



## muad'dib

Dave Harper said:


> It's most likely forcing the source to output 4K60 4:2:0 8 bit (instead of 10 bit) in order to get HDR BT2020 at that refresh rate and to fit in under the 10.2 Gbps limitation of the HDMI input chip of the 5040. I saw the same thing when I had that combo here while I was messing around figuring out my HarperVision settings on this model.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You couldn't have gone wrong choosing either projector from us, Evangelous! I'm glad we could get you all taken care of with the UHD65 though.
> 
> If you would've bought the 5040 from me instead, I could've helped you install some awesome HarperVision settings, or done them myself though!


That is correct...

To my eyes looks very good...

Is it as good as uhd disc? Can't say.. But for games it's great to have 4k and hdr...



Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## NetViper

muad'dib said:


> That is correct...
> 
> To my eyes looks very good...
> 
> Is it as good as uhd disc? Can't say.. But for games it's great to have 4k and hdr...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


What’s the diff between hdfury linker and integral?


----------



## muad'dib

NetViper said:


> What’s the diff between hdfury linker and integral?


I had the Integral and this hdr fix did not work..
Had to return it to get the linker...
The linker I beleive has a scaler etc and also ability for this fix..  

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## edgecrush

Lennaert said:


> Hi all,
> 
> New member here, but I have something to contribute here.
> I noticed a lot of people complaining about poor 3D performance, especially 3D ghosting and crosstalk with he Epson TW 9300/5040ub/6040ub.
> I had severe ghosting with my Epson TW9300. I couldn't adjust the settings to get a good 3D picture using the screen size and 3D depth. Either the front of the image was perfect, but then the back was a big mess and vise versa. It drove me nuts for months.
> Yesterday, just before sending the projector in for warranty I finally found what was causing these problems, and I havent seen this mentioned here before.
> 
> Its the IRIS! If the iris is on in 3D playback it causes severe 3D ghosting/crosstalk.
> 
> When i turned the iris off, all the ghosting/crosstalk was gone. Blu Rays like Rogue One, who were unwatchable before now played back in amazing image quality.
> No ghosting whatsoever. The 3D performance is jaw dropping good.
> 
> In 3D, just switch off the iris and see what happens!


Thanks for that info! It sounds like you are like me, and get frustrated when you can't solve the problem on your own, constantly playing and trying different things to fix it! LOL. I've been in the same situation as you, with the 3D ghosting/cross talk issue, and have not been able to figure it out on my own. I know multiple people have sent their projectors back, for replacements, and have seen the issue resolved....but, I am determined to figure it out with the one that I own. Call me stubborn....who knows...so I will definitely try your solution out tonight! If that's all it is, what a welcomed easy fix!


----------



## amarkow

muad'dib said:


> I had the Integral and this hdr fix did not work..
> Had to return it to get the linker...
> The linker I beleive has a scaler etc and also ability for this fix..
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


I'm just wondering if the linker is good solely for gaming, or if it also makes a difference with UHD blu-ray discs.


----------



## Lennaert

edgecrush said:


> Thanks for that info! It sounds like you are like me, and get frustrated when you can't solve the problem on your own, constantly playing and trying different things to fix it! LOL. I've been in the same situation as you, with the 3D ghosting/cross talk issue, and have not been able to figure it out on my own. I know multiple people have sent their projectors back, for replacements, and have seen the issue resolved....but, I am determined to figure it out with the one that I own. Call me stubborn....who knows...so I will definitely try your solution out tonight! If that's all it is, what a welcomed easy fix!


Yup, Can't stand it if it doesn't work like it should.
This was my last attempt, I already had the warranty return number from Epson to ship the unit back when I tried this last thing.

I tried all the 3d movies that didn't work before and they all looked amazing now. Completely ghosting free...
Really glad this worked coz I had this projector ISF calibrated and didn't wanna loose that.

Try it, hope it works for you!!


----------



## fritz11

Hi!
In the Fury Integral Tread, the wrote *Integral is now capable of injecting any custom infoframe, such as HDR metadata, to any signals. Enjoy *so normaly it must work with Xbox one s also,Or not? cu Fritz


----------



## laberet

NetViper said:


> It sounds like the new Sony 285 might have the same issues at twice the price too!
> 
> “No magic fix folks, sorry. 60p 4K on the 285ES, 385ES and 675ES is limited to 8-bit due to internal processing (as opposed to HDMI limitations).”


What projectors out right now can do HDR 60p 4K 10bit or 12bit and are bright enough for HDR?

Currently have the 5040UB. Like it but disappointed in the 10GBs limitation. Also, after trying all the various HDR settings I've come to the conclusion that you need a lot more lumens to get a good picture with HDR.

Was thinking the 285ES would be my next upgrade in about 6 months. I like using the XBOX One S as my primary streaming device.


----------



## NetViper

laberet said:


> What projectors out right now can do HDR 60p 4K 10bit or 12bit and are bright enough for HDR?
> 
> Currently have the 5040UB. Like it but disappointed in the 10GBs limitation. Also, after trying all the various HDR settings I've come to the conclusion that you need a lot more lumens to get a good picture with HDR.
> 
> Was thinking the 285ES would be my next upgrade in about 6 months. I like using the XBOX One S as my primary streaming device.


I don't know, but i know its not the 285ES.


----------



## jacksork

Thanks for the replies about 1080 blu ray versus 4k. Anyone have experience with viewing 4k players via the wireless transmitter? This is what I prefer to use and I thought I read somewhere that the wireless transmitter only transmits in 1080.


----------



## rmilyard

So anyone get new Xbox One X and hookup to Epson 5040ub? Mine coming today but not sure if should use with projector since One S and Epson HDR doesn't work and not TRUE 4k. Might just keep the One S on projector and put One X in den with my 2017 Samsung TV.


----------



## koberlin1

picktrekker said:


> Its a minor problem just put it on HDR1 and the image will be superb imho.


Yea I know it looks good with HDR1, imo it is not a minor problem, should be able to use HDR1 without having to manually select it every time. this was supposedly fixed in last Epson FW update...anyone employ this FW update and it addressed this issue?


----------



## Lennaert

koberlin1 said:


> Yea I know it looks good with HDR1, imo it is not a minor problem, should be able to use HDR1 without having to manually select it every time. this was supposedly fixed in last Epson FW update...anyone employ this FW update and it addressed this issue?


Yes, just select auto bright (this option was added) and it automatically selects HDR1


----------



## koberlin1

Lennaert said:


> Yes, just select auto bright (this option was added) and it automatically selects HDR1


Where in the menu do you select Auto Bright?


----------



## edgecrush

koberlin1 said:


> Where in the menu do you select Auto Bright?


Once you successfully perform the firmware update, Auto Bright will be an available option, in the same menu that gives you the HDR1, HDR2, etc. options.


----------



## edgecrush

Lennaert said:


> Yup, Can't stand it if it doesn't work like it should.
> This was my last attempt, I already had the warranty return number from Epson to ship the unit back when I tried this last thing.
> 
> I tried all the 3d movies that didn't work before and they all looked amazing now. Completely ghosting free...
> Really glad this worked coz I had this projector ISF calibrated and didn't wanna loose that.
> 
> Try it, hope it works for you!!


Well, unfortunately, it doesn't look like the Auto-Iris feature is the issue on my particular projector. I tried Guardians of the Galaxy 2, which I remembered specifically had major some pretty bad lines/bands on the left and right sides (especially the right side), right in the beginning of the movie, and they were still there, with the Auto-Iris set to off. I tried both 3D Dynamic and 3D Cinema Color Modes, but both showed the exact same result. I guess it must truly be projector specific, with the issue. 

Any other settings I could have missed?


----------



## Lennaert

edgecrush said:


> Well, unfortunately, it doesn't look like the Auto-Iris feature is the issue on my particular projector. I tried Guardians of the Galaxy 2, which I remembered specifically had major some pretty bad lines/bands on the left and right sides (especially the right side), right in the beginning of the movie, and they were still there, with the Auto-Iris set to off. I tried both 3D Dynamic and 3D Cinema Color Modes, but both showed the exact same result. I guess it must truly be projector specific, with the issue.
> 
> Any other settings I could have missed?


Those bands, are you playing SBS mkv files? They sometime have those bands. Small strip from top to bottom, like 2 inches wide.
Do you still have bad ghosting?


----------



## edgecrush

Lennaert said:


> Those bands, are you playing SBS mkv files? They sometime have those bands. Small strip from top to bottom, like 2 inches wide.
> Do you still have bad ghosting?


I'm not sure what SBS mkv files are? I'm playing the Guardians of the Galaxy 2 3D Steelbook copy from Best Buy. It's a store bought copy. I didn't get too deep into the movie to really stare and check for severe ghosting, because I figured the strips down the sides were just another example of the ghosting/cross talk. Are there any specific scenes from Rogue One that you know of, that I could check out? I do have that in 3D as well....Store bought copy.


----------



## darkangelism

rmilyard said:


> So anyone get new Xbox One X and hookup to Epson 5040ub? Mine coming today but not sure if should use with projector since One S and Epson HDR doesn't work and not TRUE 4k. Might just keep the One S on projector and put One X in den with my 2017 Samsung TV.


I have it setup. It handles UHD bluray fine with 4k and HDR, but gaming 4k60 with 10 bit color which isn't possible with the 10Gb hdmi chipset in the projector. It upscales to 4k for games but it doesn't turn on the native 4k. I am waiting for the 28GB 4k update for Forza 7 and will see if it uses the higher end textures still.


----------



## jacksork

darkangelism said:


> I have it setup. It handles UHD bluray fine with 4k and HDR, but gaming 4k60 with 10 bit color which isn't possible with the 10Gb hdmi chipset in the projector. It upscales to 4k for games but it doesn't turn on the native 4k. I am waiting for the 28GB 4k update for Forza 7 and will see if it uses the higher end textures still.


I would definitely like to know how the Xbox One X 4k UHD movies look compared to 1080p. I'm currently using an original PS4 for gaming and movies. Comparison? Also interested in how 4k performs with the wireless transmitter vs HDMI cable.


----------



## jpgfontes

Juiced46 said:


> I upgraded to a Pro from a regular PS4. However, I never used the regular PS4 with the 5040. A user on here said a NON Pro PS4 still does HDR, I am not sure if that is true or not. If it is not true, going to a Pro will get you HDR gaming, but only in 1080p. When I use the PS4 Pro to game, I use 1080p upscaled to 4K with HDR. I recently traded in my regular Ps4 for a Pro and they gave me $175, so to me it was a no brainer to upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The difference between 1080p and a 4K UHD Blu Ray is very noticeable with this projector. If you are going to buy an Xbox One X, I would not bother buying a separate Blu Ray player. I use an Xbox One S now, with an X on the way and the 5040 looks amazing with the S using UHD Blu Rays.


I downloaded Fifa18 demo to my PS4 (regular) and it uses HDR. The epson reports 1080p HDR BT2020.


----------



## jpgfontes

darkangelism said:


> I have it setup. It handles UHD bluray fine with 4k and HDR, but gaming 4k60 with 10 bit color which isn't possible with the 10Gb hdmi chipset in the projector. It upscales to 4k for games but it doesn't turn on the native 4k. I am waiting for the 28GB 4k update for Forza 7 and will see if it uses the higher end textures still.


Is it possible to set the XBOX X to 4k 24hz for apps too (amazon and Netflix) or does this mode just kicks in for UHD blurays?


----------



## darkangelism

I am curious to see if an HDfury will be able to trick the console into outputting 4k native and then cutting the color depth to work



jacksork said:


> I would definitely like to know how the Xbox One X 4k UHD movies look compared to 1080p. I'm currently using an original PS4 for gaming and movies. Comparison? Also interested in how 4k performs with the wireless transmitter vs HDMI cable.


I don't have the wireless transmitter to test with. I will try and do some comparisons, my guess is it is marginally better than 1080p with 4k enhancement. 



jpgfontes said:


> Is it possible to set the XBOX X to 4k 24hz for apps too (amazon and Netflix) or does this mode just kicks in for UHD blurays?


I will test the new prime app that does 4k.


----------



## SALadder22FF

So gotta say I'm a little disapointed that the projector cannot do 4K 60Hz no HDR natively for gaming. Says the only way to get that is through upscaling. I knew HDR for games would be a no, but it's nice that it's available on the UHD player.

Would hooking this into the wireless transmitter help any of these settings?

Games look gorgeous in 4K even if it's upscaled, but def. not the buttery smoothness of 60fps


----------



## darkangelism

SALadder22FF said:


> So gotta say I'm a little disapointed that the projector cannot do 4K 60Hz no HDR natively for gaming. Says the only way to get that is through upscaling. I knew HDR for games would be a no, but it's nice that it's available on the UHD player.
> 
> Would hooking this into the wireless transmitter help any of these settings?
> 
> Games look gorgeous in 4K even if it's upscaled, but def. not the buttery smoothness of 60fps


The limitation is the 10Gbps hdmi chipset, I don't know if the wireless bypasses that. If they allowed for 4k60 8 bit color we would have enough bandwidth, but they don't seem to allow it.


----------



## Dylan

Juiced46 said:


> I upgraded to a Pro from a regular PS4. However, I never used the regular PS4 with the 5040. A user on here said a NON Pro PS4 still does HDR, I am not sure if that is true or not. If it is not true, going to a Pro will get you HDR gaming, but only in 1080p. When I use the PS4 Pro to game, I use 1080p upscaled to 4K with HDR.


The regular PS4 does do 1080p HDR on games. Looks like no point in upgrading. Thanks, you saved me a pile of money.


----------



## NetViper

darkangelism said:


> I have it setup. It handles UHD bluray fine with 4k and HDR, but gaming 4k60 with 10 bit color which isn't possible with the 10Gb hdmi chipset in the projector. It upscales to 4k for games but it doesn't turn on the native 4k. I am waiting for the 28GB 4k update for Forza 7 and will see if it uses the higher end textures still.


So are we getting 4K with the Xbox one X? just without HDR? What do you mean it doesn't turn on the native 4K?


----------



## ayrton

jacksork said:


> Thanks for the replies about 1080 blu ray versus 4k. Anyone have experience with viewing 4k players via the wireless transmitter? This is what I prefer to use and I thought I read somewhere that the wireless transmitter only transmits in 1080.


If you are talking about a UBe wireless, which has a better bandwidth than the UB (Wired). Mine provides solid performance at 4K. When you get into 4K HDR you can review Dave Harper and Oledurt's settings..


----------



## Juiced46

rmilyard said:


> So anyone get new Xbox One X and hookup to Epson 5040ub? Mine coming today but not sure if should use with projector since One S and Epson HDR doesn't work and not TRUE 4k. Might just keep the One S on projector and put One X in den with my 2017 Samsung TV.


I will let you know soon, I am unboxing mine now. 



jpgfontes said:


> I downloaded Fifa18 demo to my PS4 (regular) and it uses HDR. The epson reports 1080p HDR BT2020.


Nice, good to know the regular PS4 does HDR



Dylan said:


> The regular PS4 does do 1080p HDR on games. Looks like no point in upgrading. Thanks, you saved me a pile of money.


Good to know. But I would not completely write off the Pro so quick. Even though the regular PS4 does HDR, you do not game the game enhancements that the Pro gets. Like 60 frames per sec, higher resolutions for non 4k games plus all the other enhancements they add on for Pro Enhanced games. It all depends if its worth the money to you. Like I said, Gamestop gave me $175, when Amazon was going to give me $100 for my regular PS4 so I took it.


----------



## picktrekker

SALadder22FF said:


> So gotta say I'm a little disapointed that the projector cannot do 4K 60Hz no HDR natively for gaming. Says the only way to get that is through upscaling. I knew HDR for games would be a no, but it's nice that it's available on the UHD player.
> 
> Would hooking this into the wireless transmitter help any of these settings?
> 
> Games look gorgeous in 4K even if it's upscaled, but def. not the buttery smoothness of 60fps



You have an ube version? Just test it?

I think it will, make sure to put it in hdmi1..


----------



## SALadder22FF

picktrekker said:


> You have an ube version? Just test it?
> 
> I think it will, make sure to put it in hdmi1..


Why HDMI 1?


----------



## Juiced46

NetViper said:


> So are we getting 4K with the Xbox one X? just without HDR? What do you mean it doesn't turn on the native 4K?


The Xbox One X is getting 4K BUT NO HDR

But the bad news is I just tested it to try to get HDR. NO HDR, not even in 1080p mode. The video settings are identical to the Xbox One S. Video detail menu says "HDR Gaming not supported with this display" It is not working like the PS4 does which allows you to do 1080P/HDR. Only thing you are getting with the X is 4K plus whatever enhancements a particular title gets but NO HDR. Native 4K games do look better, but no HDR is a huge bummer.

I just tested with Forza 7, COD WWII and Project Cars 2 which all get Xbox One X enhancements.


----------



## jacksork

ayrton said:


> If you are talking about a UBe wireless, which has a better bandwidth than the UB (Wired). Mine provides solid performance at 4K. When you get into 4K HDR you can review Dave Harper and Oledurt's settings..


I was referring to the UBe. I was of the understanding the wireless transmitter wasn't as good as a wired connection, but it sounds as if I had bad information. Currently I'm playing only 1080 blu ray discs with my original PS4 via the wireless transmitter and am considering upgrading to the Xbox One X to take advantage of the 4k UHD blu ray. Sounds like the wireless transmitter performs as well as a wired connection and that there is a noticeable difference between 1080 blu ray and 4k blu ray. I might just have to upgrade.


----------



## hoogs

So even though it says this, we get 4k in gaming? It says "Upscaled" in the dash. I'm still transferring all my stuff over so can't test


----------



## Chris the Rock

hoogs said:


> So even though it says this, we get 4k in gaming? It says "Upscaled" in the dash. I'm still transferring all my stuff over so can't test


Our projectors will accept a 4K60 signal from games on the X1X, albeit without HDR or Wide Color Gamut, while playing games. The Dashboard, as I understand it from watching Digital Foundry's coverage of the X1X on YouTube, is native 1080p. 

I for one am disappointed that MS has chosen to link 4K and HDR such that we can't have 1080p supersampled graphics with HDR like on PS4 Pro. Perhaps this will come down the line as a FW or Xbox OS upgrade. 

Having said that, there is no way anyone could look at Gears 4 on this projector from the Xbox One X and think something is missing. It looks absolutely amazing. And if your system has Atmos, don't forget to download the Dolby App and enable that.


----------



## darkangelism

NetViper said:


> So are we getting 4K with the Xbox one X? just without HDR? What do you mean it doesn't turn on the native 4K?


The game doesn't seem to render at 4k, it is rendering a 1080p image with the other enhancements and upscaling to 4k.


----------



## darkangelism

Chris the Rock said:


> Our projectors will accept a 4K60 signal from games on the X1X, albeit without HDR or Wide Color Gamut, while playing games. The Dashboard, as I understand it from watching Digital Foundry's coverage of the X1X on YouTube, is native 1080p.
> 
> I for one am disappointed that MS has chosen to link 4K and HDR such that we can't have 1080p supersampled graphics with HDR like on PS4 Pro. Perhaps this will come down the line as a FW or Xbox OS upgrade.
> 
> Having said that, there is no way anyone could look at Gears 4 on this projector from the Xbox One X and think something is missing. It looks absolutely amazing. And if your system has Atmos, don't forget to download the Dolby App and enable that.


The weird thing is some games, for example homefront revolution added 1080p HDR for the xbox one S but the X version is 4k hdr. We need MS to add 1080p HDR or 4k non HDR options.


----------



## Seawater

*Xbox One X not connecting with 5040UB*

So I picked put the Xbox One X to hook up to my Denon AVR-6300 receiver. Then to the Epson 5040UB. And I am having problems. The screen will flash on. Then off. So I tried a good HDMI cable other the the supplied Xbox HDMI cable. Same thing happens. So then I tried a different input. Again. The flashing goes on and off. Not sure what to do. I have other blu ray players that work fine with these inputs. Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## Juiced46

hoogs said:


> So even though it says this, we get 4k in gaming? It says "Upscaled" in the dash. I'm still transferring all my stuff over so can't test


It is not upscaling. It is 4K for sure. If it is 1080P upscaled, it looks damn good!



Chris the Rock said:


> I for one am disappointed that MS has chosen to link 4K and HDR such that we can't have 1080p supersampled graphics with HDR like on PS4 Pro. Perhaps this will come down the line as a FW or Xbox OS upgrade.
> 
> Having said that, there is no way anyone could look at Gears 4 on this projector from the Xbox One X and think something is missing. It looks absolutely amazing. And if your system has Atmos, don't forget to download the Dolby App and enable that.


I am disappointed with MS and Epson. MS for like you said, not allowing HDR using 1080p. PS4 can do it, why not MS? I do not see them changing it either. The Xbox One S video settings are identical to the X, I doubt they will implement this feature. Disappointed with Epson for screwing us with no 4K/60 HDR compatibility. I may just buy a linker now.....

I havent tried Gears yet. So far tested Forza 7, COD WWII, Pcars2 and Madden 18. I saw improvements on all games over the Xbox One S using 4K on that system. Better frame rates, much smoother, better resolution etc. 



Seawater said:


> So I picked put the Xbox One X to hook up to my Denon AVR-6300 receiver. Then to the Epson 5040UB. And I am having problems. The screen will flash on. Then off. So I tried a good HDMI cable other the the supplied Xbox HDMI cable. Same thing happens. So then I tried a different input. Again. The flashing goes on and off. Not sure what to do. I have other blu ray players that work fine with these inputs. Anyone else have this problem?


I would try a few things. Shut off HDMI Link on the Projector. Shut off ARC in the Video>HDMI settings in the Denon and see if that stops the switching.

If that doesnt help. Go from the Xbox straight to the Projector to rule out the Denon. If that fixes it, you have a setting issue in the Denon. I run the X4300 and my Xbox One X hookup tonight was seamless with no issues.


----------



## Vaggeto

Hi all,

On my 6040 my wife heard a "ding" which she thinks came from the projector (but isn't 100% sure) but then the screen went pure green.

She turned it off and on again and it's working normally with no other changes to any other video source etc. It's less than 1 year old, but also has quite a few hours.

Is this a possible common issue or symptom of the lamp dying on this projector or Epson in general?

Thanks!


----------



## ocelittle

Hmm...so I'm in a weird position.

Right now my theater is a little cramped (10x10). I have a 110" screen (a holdover from my old house which had a lot more room) and a BENQ W1070. Right now I have the lens as wide as humanly possible to fit the screen. I bought the W1080 to replace my old Epson 8540 because it fit the space and was literally the only one 3 years ago that would fit it.

So I'm looking to upgrade and if I go down to 92", according to the Projector Central Calculator, I can fit the 5040 in my room...but just barely. 

Am I overlooking any other 4K options? Will there be a 1070 equivalent with a 4K chip in the next year or so?


----------



## joel dickman

*1080p blu ray versus 4k uhd blu PLANET EARTH II*



jacksork said:


> (snip)...The main question I have is whether or not there is a noticeable difference viewing 4k blu ray versus 1080 blu-rays. I don't want to invest in a 4k blu ray player and the added costs of the 4k discs if the upgrade in visuals is minor...(snip)
> 
> Thanks


I just did a comparison of the PLANET EARTH II episode ISLANDS, first on standard Blu Ray disc, and then on 4K UHD Blu Ray. The 4K UHD version was significantly better, especially in contrast and sharpness. I have middle-aged eyes and wear glasses, and have some color blindness too. Viewers with better visual acuity will likely notice a greater difference than I did. 

Was the difference as obvious as that between a standard definition DVD and a standard Blu Ray disc? No. But it was not hard to notice, and I would not want to watch the standard Blu version in the future. I have been spoiled. I will give my Blu Ray version to my brother, who is much less critical than me.

I used a Philips BDP7501 player, my Epson 5040 projector, and an old Da-Lite High Power 159 inch diagonal 16:9 screen in a basement bat cave room. The extremely high gain of this screen together with the brightness of the Epson 5040 projector is wonderful for HDR. Didn't need to use Oledurt or Harper settings to get a very satisfying picture. I just bumped up the contrast and brightness slightly and used Natural mode. It is a shame that the Da-Lite High Power screens are no longer being made. If you have one, hang on to it. 

Once you see the 4K UHD picture with PLANET EARTH II you will likely be hooked. If you do not do the comparison, you will not know what you are missing. In that case you will be perfectly happy watching standard Blu Ray discs. That first step is a doozy. 

(The part of ISLANDS where the snakes chase the baby iguanas is _extremely_ creepy. Unforgettable.)

Happy Viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## Lennaert

edgecrush said:


> I'm not sure what SBS mkv files are? I'm playing the Guardians of the Galaxy 2 3D Steelbook copy from Best Buy. It's a store bought copy. I didn't get too deep into the movie to really stare and check for severe ghosting, because I figured the strips down the sides were just another example of the ghosting/cross talk. Are there any specific scenes from Rogue One that you know of, that I could check out? I do have that in 3D as well....Store bought copy.


Most of Rogue One's first half of the movie was unwatchable before. The foreground/background didn't match at all making it a blurry mess. Especially when Gin is in the prison truck looking at the alien lying down, the scene in the dark city where the guy is looking for info and shoots the informer etc.

After turning off the iris all this looked amazing, where as before it couldn't be watched.

Lets make sure we're talking about the same issues. I'm talking about ghosting/crosstalk where the image in front looks good but the image in the back is way off and the other way around. Like the two images that make up 3D don't line up the way they should.
This is caused by the iris. Since i found out and shared it, multiple people responded to me thanking me for fixing their problems.

For instance, Pirates of the Car had severe ghosting, not anymore. Beauty and the beast, the scene in the dark with the wolves and the scenes in the castle where out of whack, now plays with amazing detail and 3d depth.

I can literally play any 3D movie now in pitch perfect image quality. I now understand why in the reviews they said it was the best 3D projector they had ever tested!


----------



## Lennaert

edgecrush said:


> Well, unfortunately, it doesn't look like the Auto-Iris feature is the issue on my particular projector. I tried Guardians of the Galaxy 2, which I remembered specifically had major some pretty bad lines/bands on the left and right sides (especially the right side), right in the beginning of the movie, and they were still there, with the Auto-Iris set to off. I tried both 3D Dynamic and 3D Cinema Color Modes, but both showed the exact same result. I guess it must truly be projector specific, with the issue.
> 
> Any other settings I could have missed?


Make sure after turning off the iris, set the correct screen size without changing the depth that its auto selects! 
My screen is 120" so thats what i set in the menu. Had it on 140" before to minimize ghosting. With the iris off i just set it to the correct setting for my screen.

My 3D settings are:

Cinema
Brightness 54
contrast 50
color 35

lamp medium
Screen size 120
3D depth 1
3d brightness low
Dynamic iris off


----------



## urcha

I got my xbox one x hooked up, and as others have stated according to the settings menu it can't display native 4k because it requires 10bit color, which the 5040ub can not do at 60hz. I ordered a HD Fury linker, so hopefully that will solve the issue, to get it down to 4k hdr 60 8 bit. Sucks spending $250 on a box to make your $500 box work lol.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> It is not upscaling. It is 4K for sure. If it is 1080P upscaled, it looks damn good!
> 
> 
> 
> I am disappointed with MS and Epson. MS for like you said, not allowing HDR using 1080p. PS4 can do it, why not MS? I do not see them changing it either. The Xbox One S video settings are identical to the X, I doubt they will implement this feature. Disappointed with Epson for screwing us with no 4K/60 HDR compatibility. I may just buy a linker now.....


What would the linker do here? Allow 1080p HDR.

I've put in roughly 3 or 4 hours probably on Assassins Creed Origins so far and it looks amazing. The Dolby Atmos feature is pretty cool too. Actually had to turn the game music volume down a little cause so loud. 

I would like to see what it looks like with HDR tho. I didn't play it on original Xbox One. 

With the Epson not being able to handle full 4k HDR 60fps and the X not working with it, makes me wanna look into one of those new Sonys that claim they can do it all.


----------



## hoogs

So I got a 4k signal while running Halo 5. If I run it off the S the incoming signal would be 1080 correct?

Or am I not getting true 4k with X1X? I am a big gamer and this is a big deal. If I can't get a 4k from X1X I might go back to a TV for awhile while the Tech catches up


----------



## urcha

hoogs said:


> So I got a 4k signal while running Halo 5. If I run it off the S the incoming signal would be 1080 correct?
> 
> Or am I not getting true 4k with X1X? I am a big gamer and this is a big deal. If I can't get a 4k from X1X I might go back to a TV for awhile while the Tech catches up


From my understanding, no, you are basically getting the same signal as an S. The S up scales 1080p to a 4k signal, which is what you're getting with an X without a linker. The limitation is the x is requiring 10bit color, which the 5040ub can not handle at native 4k/60. So the xbox defaults back down to 1080p and upscales. The linker tricks the xbox into sending a full signal, and the linker strips it down to whatever signal you want, so in our case down to an 8bit.


----------



## darkangelism

urcha said:


> From my understanding, no, you are basically getting the same signal as an S. The S up scales 1080p to a 4k signal, which is what you're getting with an X without a linker. The limitation is the x is requiring 10bit color, which the 5040ub can not handle at native 4k/60. So the xbox defaults back down to 1080p and upscales. The linker tricks the xbox into sending a full signal, and the linker strips it down to whatever signal you want, so in our case down to an 8bit.


Has anyone tested with it yet?


----------



## urcha

darkangelism said:


> Has anyone tested with it yet?


Someone was discussing it back on page 377. I have mine ordered and it will be here tomorrow. I'll report back then.


----------



## hoogs

Ugh I was afraid of this, so I have to buy the linker to get "True" 4k even though that still is not full 4k? Just confused here.


----------



## urcha

hoogs said:


> Ugh I was afraid of this, so I have to buy the linker to get "True" 4k even though that still is not full 4k? Just confused here.


Yes there's nothing easy about all this unfortunately. To be clear though, you will be receiving a "full 4k" signal with the linker. The thing that is taking a hit is the color depth. 10 bit down to 8 bit means you will see more color banding. But it's still (for games that support it) native 4k/hdr/60.


----------



## hoogs

urcha said:


> Yes there's nothing easy about all this unfortunately. To be clear though, you will be receiving a "full 4k" signal with the linker. The thing that is taking a hit is the color depth. 10 bit down to 8 bit means you will see more color banding. But it's still (for games that support it) native 4k/hdr/60.


That helps, thanks for that. Guess I'll order the linker instead of blowing up my theater.


----------



## edgecrush

Lennaert said:


> Most of Rogue One's first half of the movie was unwatchable before. The foreground/background didn't match at all making it a blurry mess. Especially when Gin is in the prison truck looking at the alien lying down, the scene in the dark city where the guy is looking for info and shoots the informer etc.
> 
> After turning off the iris all this looked amazing, where as before it couldn't be watched.
> 
> Lets make sure we're talking about the same issues. I'm talking about ghosting/crosstalk where the image in front looks good but the image in the back is way off and the other way around. Like the two images that make up 3D don't line up the way they should.
> This is caused by the iris. Since i found out and shared it, multiple people responded to me thanking me for fixing their problems.
> 
> For instance, Pirates of the Car had severe ghosting, not anymore. Beauty and the beast, the scene in the dark with the wolves and the scenes in the castle where out of whack, now plays with amazing detail and 3d depth.
> 
> I can literally play any 3D movie now in pitch perfect image quality. I now understand why in the reviews they said it was the best 3D projector they had ever tested!


Well, I do have to say that I think it's awesome that so many peoples' 3D issues have been solved by your discovery, but unfortunately, not mine. LOL. I watched the exact same scenes multiple times with the iris off, normal, and high, and honestly did not see any difference. I also ramped up the screen size, and noticed that the 3D depth did change, depending on the size that was input. I did not know that it automatically changed before, but, after doing that, I reset the screen size to 100 and then 110 (my screen size is 106), and both screen size settings left the 3D depth set to 0, which is where I left it.

I watched multiple Rogue One scenes, including the specific ones that you mentioned, and I did not see any real noticeable differences between iris being off, normal, or high. From now on, just because people HAVE noticed a difference, I will leave my iris set to off, just in case it is doing something that I am not seeing.

I'm not sure I would describe the movies as being "unwatchable" before....just noticeably not crisp, with a lot of "glowing" behind objects, some doubling of background lines and silhouettes, and then, depending on the movie, the top to bottom lines that are on the sides of the screen. The 3D effect is still cool, all in all, but it's definitely not the best 3D I have ever seen...by a long shot!

I owned an Optoma HD33 1080P DLP projector before this one, and that one blew this projector clearly out of the water, when it came to 3D. The Epson has a brighter 3D picture, but the Optoma never had any types of ghosting, cross talk, side line issues that this one has. Of course, the trade off is the 4K and incredible picture quality on everything else that is not 3D, so I'll take it!


----------



## Chris the Rock

urcha said:


> But it's still (for games that support it) native 4k/hdr/60.


I'd like to see an off-screen picture of the X1X's Advanced Video Settings "4K Information" display that shows the X1X will send HDR to this projector for games. Not UHD Video at 24Hz, but games.

It's my experience that the X1X will not put out HDR for games to the projector. If the Linker will "fool" the Xbox into thinking the display can receive HDR at 4K resolution with 8-bit color, then I'll give the HD Fury Linker a try. 

For those of you with the X1X, I recommend downloading the "Insects" demo. If you're using it on the 5040/6040, you won't have the option to toggle HDR, but it still looks (and sounds, if you have Atmos) fantastic. 

https://www.microsoft.com/en-US/store/p/Insects-An-Xbox-One-X-Enhanced-Experience/9P798W4VDT91


----------



## urcha

Chris the Rock said:


> I'd like to see an off-screen picture of the X1X's Advanced Video Settings "4K Information" display that shows the X1X will send HDR to this projector for games. Not UHD Video at 24Hz, but games.
> 
> It's my experience that the X1X will not put out HDR for games to the projector. If the Linker will "fool" the Xbox into thinking the display can receive HDR at 4K resolution with 8-bit color, then I'll give the HD Fury Linker a try.
> 
> For those of you with the X1X, I recommend downloading the "Insects" demo. If you're using it on the 5040/6040, you won't have the option to toggle HDR, but it still looks (and sounds, if you have Atmos) fantastic.
> 
> https://www.microsoft.com/en-US/store/p/Insects-An-Xbox-One-X-Enhanced-Experience/9P798W4VDT91


Mine comes in tomorrow, and I will follow up in this forum with the advanced video settings screen shot with the linker to make sure it works. Thanks for the suggestion on the insects video, I'll give it a look.


----------



## Geraldius

Chris the Rock said:


> ..
> For those of you with the X1X, I recommend downloading the "Insects" demo. If you're using it on the 5040/6040, you won't have the option to toggle HDR, but it still looks (and sounds, if you have Atmos) fantastic.
> 
> https://www.microsoft.com/en-US/store/p/Insects-An-Xbox-One-X-Enhanced-Experience/9P798W4VDT91


How does one download that to the X1X? Through the web browser? Doesn't show up in the store.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Lennaert said:


> Most of Rogue One's first half of the movie was unwatchable before. The foreground/background didn't match at all making it a blurry mess. Especially when Gin is in the prison truck looking at the alien lying down, the scene in the dark city where the guy is looking for info and shoots the informer etc.
> 
> After turning off the iris all this looked amazing, where as before it couldn't be watched.
> 
> Lets make sure we're talking about the same issues. I'm talking about ghosting/crosstalk where the image in front looks good but the image in the back is way off and the other way around. Like the two images that make up 3D don't line up the way they should.
> This is caused by the iris. Since i found out and shared it, multiple people responded to me thanking me for fixing their problems.
> 
> For instance, Pirates of the Car had severe ghosting, not anymore. Beauty and the beast, the scene in the dark with the wolves and the scenes in the castle where out of whack, now plays with amazing detail and 3d depth.
> 
> I can literally play any 3D movie now in pitch perfect image quality. I now understand why in the reviews they said it was the best 3D projector they had ever tested!


I get excellent 3D on my 5040 and haven't noticed ghosting on any titles I have viewed including with 3D brightness on high (I leave it on that setting with 3D Dynamic) and with Auto Iris engaged on Fast. So evidently there is some variance in units or some such going on. When you were engaging Auto Iris with 3D did you have it on Fine or Fast?


----------



## Chris the Rock

Geraldius said:


> How does one download that to the X1X? Through the web browser? Doesn't show up in the store.


I signed into Xbox.com with my credentials and used the "Get" button (or whatever it's called) to add it to my account. Then it was in my "Ready to Install" list of My Games And Apps.

My buddy had a hard time searching for it too, and I gave him this advice and he was able to get it.


----------



## NetViper

urcha said:


> Mine comes in tomorrow, and I will follow up in this forum with the advanced video settings screen shot with the linker to make sure it works. Thanks for the suggestion on the insects video, I'll give it a look.


Looking forward to the results! Might need to buy a linker.


----------



## SALadder22FF

urcha said:


> Mine comes in tomorrow, and I will follow up in this forum with the advanced video settings screen shot with the linker to make sure it works. Thanks for the suggestion on the insects video, I'll give it a look.


Thx so much. I'm very interested in these findings as I will purchase a linker if it gives true 4k HDR 60fps


----------



## koberlin1

edgecrush said:


> Once you successfully perform the firmware update, Auto Bright will be an available option, in the same menu that gives you the HDR1, HDR2, etc. options.


As it turns out my 6040UB will not take the FW update, spoke with Epson tier 2 yesterday and they are sending me an advanced replacement. They said they had seen this before but it was rare. This thing is only around 4 months old, hate to think I am getting a refurb unit, at least the bulb will be new (according to them).


----------



## edgecrush

WynsWrld98 said:


> I get excellent 3D on my 5040 and haven't noticed ghosting on any titles I have viewed including with 3D brightness on high (I leave it on that setting with 3D Dynamic) and with Auto Iris engaged on Fast. So evidently there is some variance in units or some such going on. When you were engaging Auto Iris with 3D did you have it on Fine or Fast?


I leave my projector on Fine, not Fast. For the fun of it, I could try it on Fast, but I really doubt it's going to make any difference. I do agree, it seems to be a variance in the projectors, not based on model or firmware version, but physical projector. I have seen multiple people state that they got a replacement from Epson and that replacement solved the issue. That's a little disappointing, to be honest, since you would think every projector would respond the same. I really wasn't going to take that route, but I'm starting to think I might consider it, after hearing many people reporting superb 3D viewing.


----------



## edgecrush

koberlin1 said:


> As it turns out my 6040UB will not take the FW update, spoke with Epson tier 2 yesterday and they are sending me an advanced replacement. They said they had seen this before but it was rare. This thing is only around 4 months old, hate to think I am getting a refurb unit, at least the bulb will be new (according to them).


That kinda sucks! LOL. I've been having the 3D issue with mine, for awhile now, and I'm starting to consider the replacement route as well, although I really don't want to do it. I'm glad to hear, at least, that they would send you an advanced replacement and not force you to send it out, and THEN receive a new one. Let me know how the replacement turns out, and if you can see any evidence of it being a refurb, or brand new.


----------



## koberlin1

edgecrush said:


> That kinda sucks! LOL. I've been having the 3D issue with mine, for awhile now, and I'm starting to consider the replacement route as well, although I really don't want to do it. I'm glad to hear, at least, that they would send you an advanced replacement and not force you to send it out, and THEN receive a new one. Let me know how the replacement turns out, and if you can see any evidence of it being a refurb, or brand new.


It will be a refurb that is guaranteed. I have owned a few Epson's prior, all of which at one time or another needed an advanced replacement. I have owned and worked with other PJ manufacturers as well (Mitsubishi, Digital Projection, Sony, Runco) all of which also suffer from more repair maintenance than you would imagine. Just the cost of going with a complex viewing system, a cost I am willing to put up with considering the price/square inch difference between a PJ system and a TV. Epson in particular though are very quick about replacing units, offer a great product for the price, so I am OK with it


----------



## Dave Harper

edgecrush said:


> I leave my projector on Fine, not Fast. For the fun of it, I could try it on Fast, but I really doubt it's going to make any difference. I do agree, it seems to be a variance in the projectors, not based on model or firmware version, but physical projector. I have seen multiple people state that they got a replacement from Epson and that replacement solved the issue. That's a little disappointing, to be honest, since you would think every projector would respond the same. I really wasn't going to take that route, but I'm starting to think I might consider it, after hearing many people reporting superb 3D viewing.



Fine is for better processing quality for things like movies and video. Fast is to reduce lag time in games, at the expense of top image quality. 




SALadder22FF said:


> What would the linker do here? Allow 1080p HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I've put in roughly 3 or 4 hours probably on Assassins Creed Origins so far and it looks amazing. The Dolby Atmos feature is pretty cool too. Actually had to turn the game music volume down a little cause so loud.
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to see what it looks like with HDR tho. I didn't play it on original Xbox One.
> 
> 
> 
> With the Epson not being able to handle full 4k HDR 60fps and the X not working with it, makes me wanna look into one of those new Sonys that claim they can do it all.



It can allow you to scale the color bit depth down to 8 bit as has been mentioned and can also allow you to strip HDR but keep BT2020 WCG for those that think HDR is too dark. 



laberet said:


> What projectors out right now can do HDR 60p 4K 10bit or 12bit and are bright enough for HDR?.......



The Optoma UHZ65, if you count the XPR DLP as 4K. And of course some ridiculously expensive ones like the JVC RS4500 and Sony VW5000ES. 



amarkow said:


> I'm just wondering if the linker is good solely for gaming, or if it also makes a difference with UHD blu-ray discs.



It's good for anything since you c an use it to customize the EDID. The only movie I can think it helps with specifically would be Billy Lynn's Long Halftime March because it's a 4K60p title so you'll have the same limitation as games with it.


----------



## darkangelism

urcha said:


> Mine comes in tomorrow, and I will follow up in this forum with the advanced video settings screen shot with the linker to make sure it works. Thanks for the suggestion on the insects video, I'll give it a look.


Thanks for testing this, I may get one if it works.


----------



## hoogs

muad'dib said:


> All I can it works... And looks great..
> 
> I think HDfury is reducing data bits to aim for 300mhz bandwidth...
> I just played my ps4 pro other day (the witness) in 4k/60 hdr.. Looks awesome..
> 
> Without the fury, I could not get hdr and 4k to work...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


From earlier in this thread. Looks like the HD Fury Linker will do the trick for X1X. I am going to order one now!


----------



## hangulo

Hi Dave, about the HDF linker, you stated : 

"It can allow you to scale the color bit depth down to 8 bit as has been mentioned and can also allow you to strip HDR but keep BT2020 WCG for those that think HDR is too dark."


HD fury states that no HDR to SDR real-time conversion is possible except with high-end video processors...so when you say the linker strips the HDR block/metadata do you mean all it does is trick the epson into not going into HDR mode, and as a consequence all HDR content will look washed out?

Also, I thought 10 bit was required to keep 2020... can you preserve the wide color range at 8 bit ? (even if it means less color steps or banding)


finally, if the linker just strips the HDR bit and force the epson into SDR ( and requiring manual gamma adjustments to compensate).. how is this different than just using the harpervision settings (BTW thanks a lot for it) and force SDR on the epson for (say for 24fps content ) ?

PS: I use an ATV4K with an epson 5040


----------



## raf77

urcha said:


> I got my xbox one x hooked up, and as others have stated according to the settings menu it can't display native 4k because it requires 10bit color, which the 5040ub can not do at 60hz. I ordered a HD Fury linker, so hopefully that will solve the issue, to get it down to 4k hdr 60 8 bit. Sucks spending $250 on a box to make your $500 box work lol.


8 bits HDR


----------



## urcha

raf77 said:


> 8 bits HDR


Beggars can't be choosers.


----------



## NetViper

raf77 said:


> 8 bits HDR


From reading the Sony thread, the 8-bit HDR looks pretty good in most places but can cause a little banding here and there. I can live with it if that is what we are able to get with the linker.


----------



## edgecrush

So, I've been playing with the 3D a bit today. I'm using Rogue One as my test material, because it is one of the worst out there, for cross talk and ghosting. For me, I find that, if I leave the 3D brightness on low, and I use 3D dynamic color mode....all color/tint/brightness settings on default (which leaves the brightness on 50), and then, use Power Consumption on High, I get a pretty impressive 3D picture. It's not perfect. I do see cross talk from time to time, but it is limited and definitely watchable. Oh, I almost forgot, I have my 3D depth set to 2....0 was giving me too much cross talk.

Many have stated that Rogue One was so bad that it was "unwatchable". I'm not sure I could ever say that it was so bad for me that it was unwatchable. After taking multiple suggestions though (setting auto iris to off, setting 3D brightness to Low, changing 3D depth, etc.) it seems that I have optimized the picture quality. Again, is it perfect? No...but, definitely impressive, for the most part.

Finally, I do have to say that I have found different movies to give different results, as many have reported. I'm only using Rogue One as an example because it has been reported as the worst offender. It seems, depending on the movie, I might have to play with the 3D depth...but, leaving the auto iris to off, and the 3D brightness to Low, seems to provide the best results, as a whole.


----------



## NetViper

edgecrush said:


> So, I've been playing with the 3D a bit today. I'm using Rogue One as my test material, because it is one of the worst out there, for cross talk and ghosting. For me, I find that, if I leave the 3D brightness on low, and I use 3D dynamic color mode....all color/tint/brightness settings on default (which leaves the brightness on 50), and then, use Power Consumption on High, I get a pretty impressive 3D picture. It's not perfect. I do see cross talk from time to time, but it is limited and definitely watchable. Oh, I almost forgot, I have my 3D depth set to 2....0 was giving me too much cross talk.
> 
> Many have stated that Rogue One was so bad that it was "unwatchable". I'm not sure I could ever say that it was so bad for me that it was unwatchable. After taking multiple suggestions though (setting auto iris to off, setting 3D brightness to Low, changing 3D depth, etc.) it seems that I have optimized the picture quality. Again, is it perfect? No...but, definitely impressive, for the most part.
> 
> Finally, I do have to say that I have found different movies to give different results, as many have reported. I'm only using Rogue One as an example because it has been reported as the worst offender. It seems, depending on the movie, I might have to play with the 3D depth...but, leaving the auto iris to off, and the 3D brightness to Low, seems to provide the best results, as a whole.


Do certain 3D glasses work better than others, or are they all about the same?


----------



## Lennaert

WynsWrld98 said:


> I get excellent 3D on my 5040 and haven't noticed ghosting on any titles I have viewed including with 3D brightness on high (I leave it on that setting with 3D Dynamic) and with Auto Iris engaged on Fast. So evidently there is some variance in units or some such going on. When you were engaging Auto Iris with 3D did you have it on Fine or Fast?


With the iris on it made no difference fine or fast, neither did any other adjustment. When i turned off the iris in 3D mode, everything was fine. Every movie I couldn't play before now plays beautifully.

Looks like they way the light hits the panels makes night and day, so when the iris is working it somehow seems to mess things up...


----------



## edgecrush

NetViper said:


> Do certain 3D glasses work better than others, or are they all about the same?


For me, I have purchased 2 different brands. I have the Ultimate3D Heaven glasses (bought on Amazon), and I also purchased one pair of the Epson specific 3D-glasses (made by Epson for this projector (and I'm assuming comparable Epson 3D projectors)). Both give me extremely similar results....If anything, the Ultimate3D Heaven glasses seem to be a touch better!


----------



## edgecrush

Just an add....after tweaking and testing for awhile with Rogue One 3D, and posting my results above, I then popped in Terminator Genisys 3D, and put my 3D depth back to 0 (as a default starting point), and it looks absolutely fantastic! Almost zero evidence of ghosting and an incredibly sharp, colorful, "popping" image, so go figure!

Just goes to further show that the 3D issue is movie specific as well!


----------



## Dave Harper

hangulo said:


> Hi Dave, about the HDF linker, you stated :
> 
> 
> 
> "It can allow you to scale the color bit depth down to 8 bit as has been mentioned and can also allow you to strip HDR but keep BT2020 WCG for those that think HDR is too dark."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HD fury states that no HDR to SDR real-time conversion is possible except with high-end video processors...so when you say the linker strips the HDR block/metadata do you mean all it does is trick the epson into not going into HDR mode, and as a consequence all HDR content will look washed out?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I thought 10 bit was required to keep 2020... can you preserve the wide color range at 8 bit ? (even if it means less color steps or banding)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finally, if the linker just strips the HDR bit and force the epson into SDR ( and requiring manual gamma adjustments to compensate).. how is this different than just using the harpervision settings (BTW thanks a lot for it) and force SDR on the epson for (say for 24fps content ) ?
> 
> 
> 
> PS: I use an ATV4K with an epson 5040



I mean you can select an EDID that includes BT2020, but not HDR so the source itself is the one that takes the HDR signal and tone maps it down to SDR, but still sends the BT2020 WCG signal. An example of this is using EDID 8 with HDR bt2020 vs EDID 10 with bt2020 alone. 

The choice you're speaking of where I use the Linker for HarperVision to trick the source into sending the full HDR signal without the metadata, which would normally trigger HDR mode in the display, is a check box on the scaling tab that says something like "HDR Off" or whatever. (I don't have it in front of me and it's been awhile)

Then there's a selection on one of the tabs to force the 8 bit color. The Integral doesn't have or support this feature.


----------



## cflewis

Dave Harper said:


> I mean you can select an EDID that includes BT2020, but not HDR so the source itself is the one that takes the HDR signal and tone maps it down to SDR, but still sends the BT2020 WCG signal. An example of this is using EDID 8 with HDR bt2020 vs EDID 10 with bt2020 alone.
> 
> The choice you're speaking of where I use the Linker for HarperVision to trick the source into sending the full HDR signal without the metadata, which would normally trigger HDR mode in the display, is a check box on the scaling tab that says something like "HDR Off" or whatever. (I don't have it in front of me and it's been awhile)


Hi Dave!
My Linker comes on Friday, but I don't have a Windows PC to access the GUI with :/
Is one of the built-in presets as shown in the manual[1] going to work with Harpervision if I set the 5040 to SDR color?

Even if not, which preset should I be using? 3 even calls out the Epson specifically:



> 3. Set 4k30/4k60 presets for a 4K30 deepcolor PJ at 300MHz (e.g Wired UB/TW Epson)
> [4k30 8/10/12 -> 4k30 422 12 300, 4k60 600MHz -> 4k60 420 300MHz]


[1] Can't post links so have to mangle: hdfury.com/docs/HDfuryLinker.pdf


----------



## Eric McEntee

*Firmware version numbers*

Sorry for posting this - having a bit of a time searching through this mega-thread. I don't doubt this is somewhere in here - but lots of content to get through.

How can you decipher the firmware version numbers on a 5040ub? The firmware page says "1.10/1.04". My projector version info says something like Main 670076648UWWV105 and Video 68L28RMV104.

Does this mean my "main" is behind, so I should update the firmware?

Thanks


----------



## Lennaert

Eric McEntee said:


> Sorry for posting this - having a bit of a time searching through this mega-thread. I don't doubt this is somewhere in here - but lots of content to get through.
> 
> How can you decipher the firmware version numbers on a 5040ub? The firmware page says "1.10/1.04". My projector version info says something like Main 670076648UWWV105 and Video 68L28RMV104.
> 
> Does this mean my "main" is behind, so I should update the firmware?
> 
> Thanks


The new version 1.10 (or 1.09 in Europe) will add auto bright feature in the HDR settings, meaning it automatically selects HDR1 instead of HDR2.
I think thats all the update does..


----------



## SALadder22FF

Which is the correct fury we need on Amazon. The $190 or the 2017 integral for $192. 

Or is there a better price. 

Just want to make sure I get the right one. 

Also, can someone point me in the right direction for a resource to learn about the 4:2:0, 4:2:2 etc differences as well as 8bit 10bit etc. Not 100% clear on what each means.


----------



## Lennaert

NetViper said:


> Do certain 3D glasses work better than others, or are they all about the same?


I have the original Epson, Samsung 5100GB and the iVision 305RF.

The cheapest to get are the Samsungs, and they really look great lol. The Epson and iVisions are a tad brighter, but the Samsungs have the least problems with ghosting...plus you can get them dirt cheap. I bought like 10 brand new ones for 30 bucks online  Bought them as extra for when people come over but I use them all the time, but the wife favors the iVisions.
The Epson and iVisions are rechargeable, the Samsung take pill batteries...


----------



## Lennaert

SALadder22FF said:


> Which is the correct fury we need on Amazon. The $190 or the 2017 integral for $192.
> 
> Or is there a better price.
> 
> Just want to make sure I get the right one.
> 
> Also, can someone point me in the right direction for a resource to learn about the 4:2:0, 4:2:2 etc differences as well as 8bit 10bit etc. Not 100% clear on what each means.


https://www.hdfury.com/product/integral-4k60-444-600mhz/

With that you can send 4K UHD and HDR at 60fr/sec


----------



## urcha

SALadder22FF said:


> Which is the correct fury we need on Amazon. The $190 or the 2017 integral for $192.
> 
> Or is there a better price.
> 
> Just want to make sure I get the right one.
> 
> Also, can someone point me in the right direction for a resource to learn about the 4:2:0, 4:2:2 etc differences as well as 8bit 10bit etc. Not 100% clear on what each means.


https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/

You need the linker, not the integral.

http://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/chroma-subsampling

Good resource on 4:2:0

http://www.zero-friction.net/2016/05/24/tech-talk-8-bit-vs-10-bit-color-do-we-need-a-billion-colors/

Good example of 8 bit vs 10 bit


----------



## SALadder22FF

I forgot to ask for info on the 10 vs 18gbs differences as well as the HDR 709 vs 2020. Thx so much again.


----------



## urcha

SALadder22FF said:


> Thx so much for the resources.
> 
> What's the differences in what you said vs the post above. Integral vs Linker.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


https://www.hdfury.com/comparison/

That's the comparison between the two. I may be wrong, but my understanding is the Linker can do things the integral can not. The integral's main function is if you need a splitter as well. Everything I've researched used the Linker. Again, I may be wrong and the integral may also work, I just haven't read about it.

The whole reason why we are in this mess is because the 5040ub has a 10gbps hdmi chipset, instead of an 18.2 gbps. It's basically a signal limitation. At 10gbps, it can't take in all the pixels, frames, and colors we are throwing at it. So we have to strip down the signal to what we want to fit within the constraints of the chipset. Which is what the HDFury does.


----------



## Dominic Chan

urcha said:


> So we have to strip down the signal to what we want to fit within the constraints of the chipset. Which is what the HDFury does.


Are you using a custom EDID with the 5040UB, or one of the presets?


----------



## Juiced46

hoogs said:


> So even though it says this, we get 4k in gaming? It says "Upscaled" in the dash. I'm still transferring all my stuff over so can't test


I understand it says upscaled in the dash. But I really am starting to wonder if it is Native 4K or 1080p upscaled. There is no way to tell because the Xbox doesnt state what it outputs and the projector obviously shows 4K. I do have to say though, the image looks amazing. Compared to my Xbox One S using this same projector all games I have played on that have a noticeable difference on the X. 



darkangelism said:


> The game doesn't seem to render at 4k, it is rendering a 1080p image with the other enhancements and upscaling to 4k.


How do you know that though?



urcha said:


> I got my xbox one x hooked up, and as others have stated according to the settings menu it can't display native 4k because it requires 10bit color, which the 5040ub can not do at 60hz. I ordered a HD Fury linker, so hopefully that will solve the issue, to get it down to 4k hdr 60 8 bit. Sucks spending $250 on a box to make your $500 box work lol.


Where did you buy a Linker for $250? Its under $200 on the site. 



SALadder22FF said:


> What would the linker do here? Allow 1080p HDR.
> 
> I've put in roughly 3 or 4 hours probably on Assassins Creed Origins so far and it looks amazing. The Dolby Atmos feature is pretty cool too. Actually had to turn the game music volume down a little cause so loud.
> 
> I would like to see what it looks like with HDR tho. I didn't play it on original Xbox One.
> 
> With the Epson not being able to handle full 4k HDR 60fps and the X not working with it, makes me wanna look into one of those new Sonys that claim they can do it all.


The Sonys are only doiong 4K/60HDR 8 bit. So to me, its not worth $5000, the Linker is the better option at that point. 



hoogs said:


> So I got a 4k signal while running Halo 5. If I run it off the S the incoming signal would be 1080 correct?
> 
> Or am I not getting true 4k with X1X? I am a big gamer and this is a big deal. If I can't get a 4k from X1X I might go back to a TV for awhile while the Tech catches up


The S will still show a 4K signal if your video settings are set to 4K UHD. All titles I have played on the S have always showed 4K in the projector info with the 5040. 



Chris the Rock said:


> I'd like to see an off-screen picture of the X1X's Advanced Video Settings "4K Information" display that shows the X1X will send HDR to this projector for games. Not UHD Video at 24Hz, but games.
> 
> It's my experience that the X1X will not put out HDR for games to the projector. If the Linker will "fool" the Xbox into thinking the display can receive HDR at 4K resolution with 8-bit color, then I'll give the HD Fury Linker a try.
> 
> For those of you with the X1X, I recommend downloading the "Insects" demo. If you're using it on the 5040/6040, you won't have the option to toggle HDR, but it still looks (and sounds, if you have Atmos) fantastic.
> 
> https://www.microsoft.com/en-US/store/p/Insects-An-Xbox-One-X-Enhanced-Experience/9P798W4VDT91


I would like to know what the X is sending out for a signal to determine if we are getting Native 4K or upscaled 1080p.



urcha said:


> Mine comes in tomorrow, and I will follow up in this forum with the advanced video settings screen shot with the linker to make sure it works. Thanks for the suggestion on the insects video, I'll give it a look.


It will work for sure. It works with the S, there are users that have posted pictures of the advanced screen using a Linker. I have no doubts.


----------



## fritz11

Can i also scale down the Xbox One/ XBOX
from 4k/60Hz/Bt2020 to 1080p/60hz/BT2020 with the Linker?
The Ps4 pro can send 1080 with Hdr and Looks amazing on the 6040
cu
Ftc


----------



## darkangelism

Juiced46 said:


> I understand it says upscaled in the dash. But I really am starting to wonder if it is Native 4K or 1080p upscaled. There is no way to tell because the Xbox doesnt state what it outputs and the projector obviously shows 4K. I do have to say though, the image looks amazing. Compared to my Xbox One S using this same projector all games I have played on that have a noticeable difference on the X.
> 
> 
> 
> How do you know that though?


This shows how to tell https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/4k-on-xbox-one
If it is native 4k it should ask to switch
You don't have to set your console resolution to 4K to play 4K content. You can set your console to another resolution, such as 1080p, and when a game or app requires 4K (and your TV supports the 4K mode it wants), it'll automatically switch to 4K. This is good if you want to play 1080p content in its native resolution, but also take advantage of the 4K resolution when playing 4K content.

To set your resolution to a lower resolution but switch to 4K when 4K content is played:

Open the guide and go to System > Settings > Display & sound > Video output and then make sure TV resolution is set to 720p or 1080p.
Select Advanced video settings and make sure Allow 4K is checked.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Dave Harper said:


> Fine is for better processing quality for things like movies and video. Fast is to reduce lag time in games, at the expense of top image quality.


Reference that states this? and/or from personal experience?


----------



## Dave Harper

WynsWrld98 said:


> Reference that states this? and/or from personal experience?


Both. This is in the manual......










......plus just a couple weeks ago my son was having his birthday party in our theater/game/media room playing Xbox one S with his friends on our Epson projector. Next thing I know they come into the living room complaining of serious lag in their first person shooter game. I walked in, switched it to "Fast" and then they all in unison were like "Wow, what a difference, thanks!!!"

That proof enough for ya? 





cflewis said:


> Hi Dave!
> 
> My Linker comes on Friday, but I don't have a Windows PC to access the GUI with :/
> 
> Is one of the built-in presets as shown in the manual[1] going to work with Harpervision if I set the 5040 to SDR color?
> 
> Even if not, which preset should I be using? 3 even calls out the Epson specifically:
> 
> [1] Can't post links so have to mangle: hdfury.com/docs/HDfuryLinker.pdf


Try EDID 8 and then force color depth to 8 bit if you're trying to send 4K60p. You can use 10 bit for movies at 4K24p.


----------



## Buckeye Dave

Will I need a Linker for watching movies only? I will be watching 4K discs on an Oppo 203 and streaming 4k movies through ATV4K.

Thank you!


----------



## muad'dib

Here is a screen shot of input signal Epson gets with linker trick for hdr and 4k..
And also what xbox x sees..










Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

darkangelism said:


> This shows how to tell https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/4k-on-xbox-one
> If it is native 4k it should ask to switch
> You don't have to set your console resolution to 4K to play 4K content. You can set your console to another resolution, such as 1080p, and when a game or app requires 4K (and your TV supports the 4K mode it wants), it'll automatically switch to 4K. This is good if you want to play 1080p content in its native resolution, but also take advantage of the 4K resolution when playing 4K content.
> 
> To set your resolution to a lower resolution but switch to 4K when 4K content is played:
> 
> Open the guide and go to System > Settings > Display & sound > Video output and then make sure TV resolution is set to 720p or 1080p.
> Select Advanced video settings and make sure Allow 4K is checked.


Thank you for the info. I was not aware that is how it worked. I did not realize if you set it to 1080p it would switch to 4K when it sees a 4K signal. I will have to check this out when I get back in town on Friday. 



muad'dib said:


> Here is a screen shot of input signal Epson gets with linker trick for hdr and 4k..
> And also what xbox x sees..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


What settings are you using on the Linker?


----------



## SALadder22FF

Is there a setting on the linker to give [email protected] at 10-bit with no HDR?

Some of the games that are enhanced like Titanfall 2 do not get an HDR upgrade but get the 4k 60fps.

I would like to see this at its best 10 bit. 

Anyone have any gaming experience at 8bit HDR? I'm curious if the banding would make it unplayable.

Thx

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## muad'dib

Juiced46 said:


> Thank you for the info. I was not aware that is how it worked. I did not realize if you set it to 1080p it would switch to 4K when it sees a 4K signal. I will have to check this out when I get back in town on Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> What settings are you using on the Linker?


See attached photos












Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## Spyderturbo007

Can anyone with the Linker comment on the difference before (upscaled to 4k) vs. after the linker (4k60 @ 8-bit)?

I don't want to go spending another $200 unless I get a few "Holy crap, this made a huge difference!"


----------



## urcha

SALadder22FF said:


> Is there a setting on the linker to give [email protected] at 10-bit with no HDR?
> 
> Some of the games that are enhanced like Titanfall 2 do not get an HDR upgrade but get the 4k 60fps.
> 
> I would like to see this at its best 10 bit.
> 
> Anyone have any gaming experience at 8bit HDR? I'm curious if the banding would make it unplayable.
> 
> Thx
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


It definitely won't be unplayable, that's a pretty strong word. Odds are you are probably playing with 8 bit right now, go load up one of your games and check the projector info.


----------



## muad'dib

Spyderturbo007 said:


> Can anyone with the Linker comment on the difference before (upscaled to 4k) vs. after the linker (4k60 @ 8-bit)?
> 
> I don't want to go spending another $200 unless I get a few "Holy crap, this made a huge difference!"


My eyes say yes it looks sharper etc..
Like if you watched a 1080p movie then watched a true uhd version... Thr uhd version looks sharper on Epson...

Just my option, and hdr with 4k is nice... Especially with new tomb raider..  

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdepot

Dave Harper said:


> Fine is for better processing quality for things like movies and video. Fast is to reduce lag time in games, at the expense of top image quality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can allow you to scale the color bit depth down to 8 bit as has been mentioned and can also allow you to strip HDR but keep BT2020 WCG for those that think HDR is too dark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Optoma UHZ65, if you count the XPR DLP as 4K. And of course some ridiculously expensive ones like the JVC RS4500 and Sony VW5000ES.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's good for anything since you c an use it to customize the EDID. The only movie I can think it helps with specifically would be Billy Lynn's Long Halftime March because it's a 4K60p title so you'll have the same limitation as games with it.


A question on this front - I have a Matrix switch where I can apply custom EDID, but I don't have one currently in my device to be able to apply it .. is there an EDID kicking around that can accomplish this?


----------



## Geraldius

darkangelism said:


> This shows how to tell https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/4k-on-xbox-one
> If it is native 4k it should ask to switch
> You don't have to set your console resolution to 4K to play 4K content. You can set your console to another resolution, such as 1080p, and when a game or app requires 4K (and your TV supports the 4K mode it wants), it'll automatically switch to 4K. This is good if you want to play 1080p content in its native resolution, but also take advantage of the 4K resolution when playing 4K content.
> 
> To set your resolution to a lower resolution but switch to 4K when 4K content is played:
> 
> Open the guide and go to System > Settings > Display & sound > Video output and then make sure TV resolution is set to 720p or 1080p.
> Select Advanced video settings and make sure Allow 4K is checked.





Juiced46 said:


> Thank you for the info. I was not aware that is how it worked. I did not realize if you set it to 1080p it would switch to 4K when it sees a 4K signal. I will have to check this out when I get back in town on Friday.


This doesn't work on the 5040. Because it doesn't support 10-bit at 4K, the X1X will only output 4K to the 5040 if you force 4K mode in the screen resolution setting. If you set it to 1080p it will remain locked at 1080p. If you set it to 4K it remains locked at 4K and X1X content is upscaled.


----------



## darkangelism

Geraldius said:


> This doesn't work on the 5040. Because it doesn't support 10-bit at 4K, the X1X will only output 4K to the 5040 if you force 4K mode in the screen resolution setting. If you set it to 1080p it will remain locked at 1080p. If you set it to 4K it remains locked at 4K and X1X content is upscaled.


Right, that is what I am trying to prove, that it isn't native 4k.


----------



## Geraldius

darkangelism said:


> Right, that is what I am trying to prove, that it isn't native 4k.


I tried testing it with the Rise of the Tomb Raider game free demo, and with the Insects demo. Both show 4K options when running -- and HDR is greyed out, so it seems they are getting this info from the Xbox. But switching on or off 4K content in the game or demo does not cause the output signal to change. 

Even in 1080p mode the Insects demo lets you switch 4K on or off, and it appears to change the image quality. But the signal remains 1080p. This means that the Insects demo image quality differences are simulated (exaggerated), not real.

In RotTR there is a 'Native 4K' display setting that you can choose, but it allows this whether the display is locked at 1080p or 4K and the signal remains at the locked setting and the game doesn't protest. It looks great but I don't know of any way to tell if the 4K out from the X1X to the 5040 is native or just upscaled.

The display information screen says that games will be upscaled to 4K.


----------



## darkangelism

Geraldius said:


> I tried testing it with the Rise of the Tomb Raider game free demo, and with the Insects demo. Both show 4K options when running -- and HDR is greyed out, so it seems they are getting this info from the Xbox. But switching on or off 4K content in the game or demo does not cause the output signal to change.
> 
> Even in 1080p mode the Insects demo lets you switch 4K on or off, and it appears to change the image quality. But the signal remains 1080p. This means that the Insects demo image quality differences are simulated (exaggerated), not real.
> 
> In RotTR there is a 'Native 4K' display setting that you can choose, but it allows this whether the display is locked at 1080p or 4K and the signal remains at the locked setting and the game doesn't protest. It looks great but I don't know of any way to tell if the 4K out from the X1X to the 5040 is native or just upscaled.
> 
> The display information screen says that games will be upscaled to 4K.


Interesting, this makes it even harder to tell what is going on.


----------



## SALadder22FF

urcha said:


> It definitely won't be unplayable, that's a pretty strong word. Odds are you are probably playing with 8 bit right now, go load up one of your games and check the projector info.


You are correct. Game is running already at 8 bit

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## TheLegendaryRob

Apologize if it has been mentioned, but where does the linker sit in between? I currently have XB1X > Sony STRDN1080 > Epson 5040. Should Linker fit like XB1X > Sony STRDN1080 > LINKER > Epson 5040? Thanks much


----------



## WynsWrld98

Dave Harper said:


> Both. This is in the manual......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ......plus just a couple weeks ago my son was having his birthday party in our theater/game/media room playing Xbox one S with his friends on our Epson projector. Next thing I know they come into the living room complaining of serious lag in their first person shooter game. I walked in, switched it to "Fast" and then they all in unison were like "Wow, what a difference, thanks!!!"
> 
> That proof enough for ya?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try EDID 8 and then force color depth to 8 bit if you're trying to send 4K60p. You can use 10 bit for movies at 4K24p.


I remember reports somewhere in the hundreds of pages above of someone saying they could see no reduction in picture quality with Iris in Fast vs Normal on movies/etc. and left it in Fast. So I believe you'd want it in Fast for Games but wonder if what Epson wrote really pans out that picture quality is worse with it in Fast for movies. I guess hard to quantify if that happens or not.


----------



## Chris the Rock

Geraldius said:


> Even in 1080p mode the Insects demo lets you switch 4K on or off, and it appears to change the image quality. But the signal remains 1080p. This means that the Insects demo image quality differences are simulated (exaggerated), not real.


If in 1080p mode, switching 4K on or off changes between supersampled 1080p (4K assets downsampled to 1080p) and "regular" 1080p (1080p assets).

So yes, they are simulated.

Look around 1:45 into the video.


----------



## urcha

TheLegendaryRob said:


> Apologize if it has been mentioned, but where does the linker sit in between? I currently have XB1X > Sony STRDN1080 > Epson 5040. Should Linker fit like XB1X > Sony STRDN1080 > LINKER > Epson 5040? Thanks much


I believe so.


----------



## hoogs

Hey guys I got the linker, but I don't have the bluetooth and app like poster above. How do I set it in this windows GUI? I Changed the EID to #4 which matches the above. But the first screen shot I don't know where to set that. I tried it after just changing to #4 and it does show now that I can run 4k 10bit in games, but when I started Halo 5 it still said BT709 as the color depth so I don't think it's working. Any help is appreciated. I played a bunch of Halo 5 and Madden, so once I get this up and running I'll be able to tell people how big of a difference it is. Thanks!


----------



## taylor34

So what are people with the Epson 5040 and Xbox One X combo doing here? Buying the HD Fury, returning the Xbox One X, etc? I don't care about HDR at all, but everything I've read makes it sound like the One X outputs in 10 bit mode regardless causing the 5040ube to have to shift to 1080p instead. I bought the 5040ube back in June just to play 4k games on my ps4 pro (which works fine) and the Xbox One X, but I'm tempted just to return my scorpio to Best Buy and sell my 5040ub since I doubt Microsoft does anything to fix this issue.


----------



## hoogs

Also shouldn't I be selecting EID 13 - 4k60 420 8bit 300mhz all sound??


----------



## Nutdotnet

NetViper said:


> From reading the Sony thread, the 8-bit HDR looks pretty good in most places but can cause a little banding here and there. I can live with it if that is what we are able to get with the linker.




Especially for gaming purposes. I can see where it’d be annoying when watching movies but for gaming...I’d expect the any banding to be short lived.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ayrton

Buckeye Dave said:


> Will I need a Linker for watching movies only? I will be watching 4K discs on an Oppo 203 and streaming 4k movies through ATV4K.
> 
> Thank you!


I watch 4K UHD HDR with my 203 and UBe (Wireless) just fine. I have the 203 set to only put out 24Fps which will play a 4K 60 at 4K 30 which works fine on mine. 

I can't help on ATV4K.


----------



## Nutdotnet

muad'dib said:


> Here is a screen shot of input signal Epson gets with linker trick for hdr and 4k..
> And also what xbox x sees..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk




That’s on the X?

If so, how does it look? 

The linker appears to be EXACTLY what folks need to get the full power of the Xbox One X, at least as full power that the Epson can get.

Seems to be a no-brainer to buy a linker now (assuming the quality is there).

Sorry - one more question on the Linker (may be Best answered at the actual HDFury thread).

I get the need to use the Linker for 4K/60 HDR gaming, but, can the Linker also be bypassed when sending a signal the Epson can support?

Since it supports 4K/24 and HDR, the Linker doesn’t need to do anything - so it wouldn’t make a ton of sense to use it when watching movies.

Or maybe I just need to read the manual? 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ayrton

WynsWrld98 said:


> I remember reports somewhere in the hundreds of pages above of someone saying they could see no reduction in picture quality with Iris in Fast vs Normal on movies/etc. and left it in Fast. So I believe you'd want it in Fast for Games but wonder if what Epson wrote really pans out that picture quality is worse with it in Fast for movies. I guess hard to quantify if that happens or not.


I think these are two settings. Image Processing and Iris. Both have "Fast". I believe the item intended is "Image Processing" (Fast for Games). Don't know about "Iris"..


----------



## WynsWrld98

ayrton said:


> I think these are two settings. Image Processing and Iris. Both have "Fast". I believe the item intended is "Image Processing" (Fast for Games). Don't know about "Iris"..


You're absolutely correct I was talking iris the other poster was talking image enhancement. I need to go check my Image Enhancement setting.


----------



## jwhn

Nutdotnet said:


> That’s on the X?
> 
> If so, how does it look?
> 
> The linker appears to be EXACTLY what folks need to get the full power of the Xbox One X, at least as full power that the Epson can get.
> 
> Seems to be a no-brainer to buy a linker now (assuming the quality is there).
> 
> Sorry - one more question on the Linker (may be Best answered at the actual HDFury thread).
> 
> I get the need to use the Linker for 4K/60 HDR gaming, but, can the Linker also be bypassed when sending a signal the Epson can support?
> 
> Since it supports 4K/24 and HDR, the Linker doesn’t need to do anything - so it wouldn’t make a ton of sense to use it when watching movies.
> 
> Or maybe I just need to read the manual?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Exception might be if you watch movies on Netflix. With the Linker you may be able to stream 4K HDR at 60hz on Netflix.


----------



## Nutdotnet

jwhn said:


> Exception might be if you watch movies on Netflix. With the Linker you may be able to stream 4K HDR at 60hz on Netflix.




True. I was asking specifically about material in 4K/24. Seems like you wouldn’t want the Linker to do anything (ie, bypass its functions).

I wouldn’t want to have to disconnect it...must be a way to just have it go in a passthrough mode? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jsrdlr

SeattleHTGuy said:


> There is a ton of variability on streaming content. Compression is a very real thing. I watched Wonder Woman on Vudu UHD, which claims to be the real UHD deal on Vudu. I set my projector to manual on the HDR setting of 1 and tried to brighten the affect. There were parts of the movie that were so dark and washed out, the movie was unwatchable via streaming. I note the night boat departure scene from the island as one big blackish mess. Then I tried it in the Oppo via the 4K disc and the difference was radically superior.
> 
> My house gets a consistent 100 to 120 MBPS throughput from my Internet Provider and it still looked like crap. Again, I am new to the 6040 ownership club but so far, I choose not to obsess about what the Epson can do in 4K and am more interested in the quality of the 4K streaming service provider. I will begin playing around with Amazon and Netflix but Vudu, which has been my go to streaming movie service is coming up short. I am reading this thread to get help and advice and must say, my knowledge is low today. By no means a I a 4K UHD streaming expert yet.
> 
> I also haven't fully calibrated the 6040 yet and only have ISF calibrated for Cinema setting Medium with SD material. Will work on tweaking for 4K UHD this weekend and review recommendations on this thread.
> 
> OK, so my advice still remains. Focus on your streaming content quality first, then fret about absolute limits of the projector. Or just throw in the towel and buy the disk for your favorite movies.


I need to watch Wonder Woman streamed 4k through my Apple TV again. I watched it last night and didn't notice any compression related issues. But then again, I wasn't specifically looking for issues either, just enjoying the movie. I bought it purposely to see if streaming 4k would work for me and the fact that nothing jumped out at me is a good sign. It could also just be a sign that I'm not a videophile too. I'll try to watch again in the next few days and report back. Admittedly, I'm too cheap to buy the disc version and compare side by side .


----------



## Geraldius

taylor34 said:


> So what are people with the Epson 5040 and Xbox One X combo doing here? Buying the HD Fury, returning the Xbox One X, etc? I don't care about HDR at all, but everything I've read makes it sound like the One X outputs in 10 bit mode regardless causing the 5040ube to have to shift to 1080p instead. I bought the 5040ube back in June just to play 4k games on my ps4 pro (which works fine) and the Xbox One X, but I'm tempted just to return my scorpio to Best Buy and sell my 5040ub since I doubt Microsoft does anything to fix this issue.


For gaming the X1X will output 4K60 8-bit SDR to the 5040 without the linker. You just can't get HDR and some of the dynamic resolution switching features. So 4K games will play on it and you will see a 4K signal at the 5040. The question I'm still asking is whether this 4K output is native 4K in the Xbox or has it upscaled a 1080p rendering to 4K before outputting it? It seems like this could only be proven with some kind of custom test pattern.


----------



## hoogs

Geraldius said:


> For gaming the X1X will output 4K60 8-bit SDR to the 5040 without the linker. You just can't get HDR and some of the dynamic resolution switching features. So 4K games will play on it. The question I'm still asking is whether this 4K output is native 4K in the Xbox or has it upscaled a 1080p rendering to 4K before outputting it? It seems like this could only be proven with some kind of custom test pattern.


Right, two things tell me it's upscaled.

1. It says in the Dashboard "upscaled to 4k"
2. I did comparisons with my S vs the X and the Halo 4 and Madden looked pretty much identical to me. That tells me we are missing something after hearing everyone saying how much better games look with the X. I honestly did not see a difference. 

I have the linker, I just can't get it to work right now. Hopefully I can get the settings locked in tonight and I'll know for sure.


----------



## Chris the Rock

hoogs said:


> Right, two things tell me it's upscaled.
> 
> 1. It says in the Dashboard "upscaled to 4k"
> 2. I did comparisons with my S vs the X and the Halo 4 and Madden looked pretty much identical to me. That tells me we are missing something after hearing everyone saying how much better games look with the X. I honestly did not see a difference.
> 
> I have the linker, I just can't get it to work right now. Hopefully I can get the settings locked in tonight and I'll know for sure.


Most games will be upscaled. Only those specifically defined as "Xbox One Enhanced" with 4K assets will be "native" 4K. I say "native" in quotes because very few games actually do real 4K, most are a resolution somewhere between 1080p and 2160p. If you have a real interest in which games are output in native 4K, take a look at Digital Foundry's youtube channel. That's the only reason I "know" any of this stuff. (I don't _know_ it, really, I'm just repeating what they say).

In any case, the Xbox One X will take whatever it's given and upscale it to 2160p, if that's how you have it configured, just to prevent it from being shown inside a little window in the center of the screen. 

That doesn't make the games "4K", because the assets (art, textures, etc) were not 4K to begin with.

I can say that despite the shortcomings (no HDR without help from the HD Fury Linker to tweak the signal to 4K60 HDR 8-bit on its way to the projector), games on this projector look FANTASTIC. I use a memory preset in the Bright Cinema mode with the lamp on ECO, having calibrated it from the Xbox One X's calibration mode in the Settings App. I would never look at the picture and think "it looks nice, but something is missing...". Maybe, if I had an X1X right next to it connected to a current-gen UHD Flat Panel, but as it is - I'm quite happy.


----------



## Juiced46

muad'dib said:


> See attached photos
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk



Thank you. Also do you have the Linker connected between the Xbox and AVS or between the AVR and Epson? Lastly, is there a quick way to bypass the linker. I would want to bypass it when streaming Amazon Prime and watching UHD Movies through the Xbox


----------



## hoogs

Right but why buy the X1X if you we are getting the same picture as the S? I want to harness the full potential of the X which is native 4k games. Which by the way Halo 5 is listed as True 4k and 60fps, not just an enhanced game, which is why I am using that as an example. 

Agreed that either way games look really great on this projector, I just want to see it's full potential.


----------



## Chris the Rock

hoogs said:


> Right but why buy the X1X if you we are getting the same picture as the S? I want to harness the full potential of the X which is native 4k games. Which by the way Halo 5 is listed as True 4k and 60fps, not just an enhanced game, which is why I am using that as an example.
> 
> Agreed that either way games look really great on this projector, I just want to see it's full potential.


The X1X has enhancements for certain games, and gives almost every game a boost in performance (for example "Battlefield 1" doesn't have any "enhancements", but it does run at a consistent 60FPS, according to Digital Foundry).

Here's a list of "Xbox One X enhanced" games and their enhancements:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Xbox_One_X_Enhanced_games


----------



## hoogs

Chris the Rock said:


> The X1X has enhancements for certain games, and gives almost every game a boost in performance (for example "Battlefield 1" doesn't have any "enhancements", but it does run at a consistent 60FPS, according to Digital Foundry).
> 
> Here's a list of "Xbox One X enhanced" games and their enhancements:
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Xbox_One_X_Enhanced_games


I understand this, that is why I specifically tested Madden and Halo


----------



## hoogs

Ugh this linker is giving me a headache, here is what I have, the checkboxes look good but then I get 1080p, even when it's set to 4k.....wtf


----------



## Juiced46

hoogs said:


> Ugh this linker is giving me a headache, here is what I have, the checkboxes look good but then I get 1080p, even when it's set to 4k.....wtf


Did you try setting your linker to the settings above?


----------



## hoogs

Here are my settings from the Windows GUI


----------



## Juiced46

hoogs said:


> Here are my settings from the Windows GUI


I do not have the linker yet, but form my research. I would assume you need to output @ HDCP 2.2 not HDCP 1.4 which is what you have it set to and also your color space to 4:2:0 8bit BT2020, you have it set to 4:4:4. Also make sure all options are checked in the Xbox advanced settings menu.


----------



## hoogs

So I made it way harder than it was. All you have to do is hold RESET and press IPT 3 times which gave me all check boxes and when I fired up Madden it was in HDR 4k.

I'll do some testing tonight to see how much better it looks to me.


----------



## Juiced46

hoogs said:


> So I made it way harder than it was. All you have to do is hold RESET and press IPT 3 times which gave me all check boxes and when I fired up Madden it was in HDR 4k.
> 
> I'll do some testing tonight to see how much better it looks to me.


Great news! I ordered my Linker today, cant wait to try it out.


----------



## TheLegendaryRob

hoogs said:


> So I made it way harder than it was. All you have to do is hold RESET and press IPT 3 times which gave me all check boxes and when I fired up Madden it was in HDR 4k.
> 
> I'll do some testing tonight to see how much better it looks to me.


Where did you place the linker in between?


----------



## hoogs

TheLegendaryRob said:


> Where did you place the linker in between?


Xbox one X > Linker > Receiver > Projector


----------



## muad'dib

hoogs said:


> Xbox one X > Linker > Receiver > Projector


I found that newest firmware is touchy for locking on sometimes..

I use the firmware 0.19a.. 

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## livitup311

hoogs said:


> Xbox one X > Linker > Receiver > Projector



Dumb question... is there something different about the X that makes it more relevant to use an HD Fury on it? Why haven’t people been doing theirs for years with -S models?


----------



## taylor34

Geraldius said:


> For gaming the X1X will output 4K60 8-bit SDR to the 5040 without the linker. You just can't get HDR and some of the dynamic resolution switching features. So 4K games will play on it and you will see a 4K signal at the 5040. The question I'm still asking is whether this 4K output is native 4K in the Xbox or has it upscaled a 1080p rendering to 4K before outputting it? It seems like this could only be proven with some kind of custom test pattern.


Sure, it outputs some sort of 4k signal, but if it isn't rendering it at 4k, what's the point...it's the same thing as outputting 1080p and having the projector upscale it. All the indicators are that it isn't rendering at 4k and that it's up-scaling. I can upscale my old xbox 360 to 4k via some other external box too, but since it isn't rendering it at 4k, it won't look any better either.


----------



## muad'dib

livitup311 said:


> Dumb question... is there something different about the X that makes it more relevant to use an HD Fury on it? Why haven’t people been doing theirs for years with -S models?


I have been doing this for a year with xbox s.

But I wire...

Xbox to receiver, receiver to linker, linker to projector..

This way I can have ps4 pro and xbox s/x do 4k hdr...  

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## muad'dib

Nutdotnet said:


> That’s on the X?
> 
> If so, how does it look?
> 
> The linker appears to be EXACTLY what folks need to get the full power of the Xbox One X, at least as full power that the Epson can get.
> 
> Seems to be a no-brainer to buy a linker now (assuming the quality is there).
> 
> Sorry - one more question on the Linker (may be Best answered at the actual HDFury thread).
> 
> I get the need to use the Linker for 4K/60 HDR gaming, but, can the Linker also be bypassed when sending a signal the Epson can support?
> 
> Since it supports 4K/24 and HDR, the Linker doesn’t need to do anything - so it wouldn’t make a ton of sense to use it when watching movies.
> 
> Or maybe I just need to read the manual?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup.. Was using xbox x with this screen shot..

How did it look... Damn awesome....  

Had to go into game settings and tweak thr hdr sliders... To really make it sing... 

When you input a 4k/24 hdr, the linker does nothing... Just passes Thru as projector can take signal native..  .

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## muad'dib

hoogs said:


> Also shouldn't I be selecting EID 13 - 4k60 420 8bit 300mhz all sound??


Nope..
As edid setting tells source what your display can do..

We want to TRICK the source (xbox one x/s) to thinking our project can do full signal...
So choose edid 4k/60 600mhz all sound.

Then for out put choose custom profile for your above setting you posted( .4k60 420 8bit 300mhz) . 

See my photos in prior posts
. 

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## Nutdotnet

Does anyone happen to know where I can find the dimensions of the 5040’s feet locations?

I’m trying to determine whether this will fit where I have my 5020 if I purchase it. I know it’s longer than the 5020 but I’m trying to figure out the length between the front feet and rear foot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

Nutdotnet said:


> That’s on the X?
> 
> If so, how does it look?
> 
> The linker appears to be EXACTLY what folks need to get the full power of the Xbox One X, at least as full power that the Epson can get.
> 
> Seems to be a no-brainer to buy a linker now (assuming the quality is there).
> 
> Sorry - one more question on the Linker (may be Best answered at the actual HDFury thread).
> 
> I get the need to use the Linker for 4K/60 HDR gaming, but, can the Linker also be bypassed when sending a signal the Epson can support?
> 
> Since it supports 4K/24 and HDR, the Linker doesn’t need to do anything - so it wouldn’t make a ton of sense to use it when watching movies.
> 
> Or maybe I just need to read the manual?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Doesn't 8 bit = banding? need 10 bit or 12 bit to avoid banding??


----------



## azula

Hopefully a simple question here but how do you all have your remotes setup? 16:9 for lens1 and 2.39 for lens2? Also, how do I save harper/oledurt HDR settings in the remote? Sorry in advance for the overly simplistic questions!


----------



## Dominic Chan

azula said:


> Hopefully a simple question here but how do you all have your remotes setup? 16:9 for lens1 and 2.39 for lens2?


That’s what I do. I also save some additional settings but they require pressing more buttons to retrieve.



> Also, how do I save harper/oledurt HDR settings in the remote? Sorry in advance for the overly simplistic questions!


The settings can be saved under Memory (as opposed to Lens Memory).


----------



## Dave Harper

Buckeye Dave said:


> Will I need a Linker for watching movies only? I will be watching 4K discs on an Oppo 203 and streaming 4k movies through ATV4K.
> 
> Thank you!


No, unless you want to watch a 4K60p 10 bit movie like Billy Lynn.



muad'dib said:


> Here is a screen shot of input signal Epson gets with linker trick for hdr and 4k..
> And also what xbox x sees..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


I am thinking you should try EDID 8 since that includes both HDR metadata and BT2020 WCG and then on the scaler tab under Deep Color choose for it to force 8 bit.



TheLegendaryRob said:


> Apologize if it has been mentioned, but where does the linker sit in between? I currently have XB1X > Sony STRDN1080 > Epson 5040. Should Linker fit like XB1X > Sony STRDN1080 > LINKER > Epson 5040? Thanks much


It depends on whether you want to use it's effects on just the one source, the X1X (between X1X and AVR), or all your sources (between AVR and 5040).



WynsWrld98 said:


> I remember reports somewhere in the hundreds of pages above of someone saying they could see no reduction in picture quality with Iris in Fast vs Normal on movies/etc. and left it in Fast. So I believe you'd want it in Fast for Games but wonder if what Epson wrote really pans out that picture quality is worse with it in Fast for movies. I guess hard to quantify if that happens or not.





hoogs said:


> Also shouldn't I be selecting EID 13 - 4k60 420 8bit 300mhz all sound??


Oh I didn't realize you were talking about the iris. I am talking about Image Processing settings. Of course the iris shouldn't have any effect on lag. Sorry. 



ayrton said:


> I think these are two settings. Image Processing and Iris. Both have "Fast". I believe the item intended is "Image Processing" (Fast for Games). Don't know about "Iris"..





WynsWrld98 said:


> You're absolutely correct I was talking iris the other poster was talking image enhancement. I need to go check my Image Enhancement setting.


Yes, ayrton is correct.



hoogs said:


> Ugh this linker is giving me a headache, here is what I have, the checkboxes look good but then I get 1080p, even when it's set to 4k.....wtf


Also try what I recommended above with EDID 8.



hoogs said:


> Here are my settings from the Windows GUI


It looks like you need to update your Linker FW. I don't see the option that allows you to disable the HDR flag (Like some do to use the Linker for my HarperVision settings on non-HDR 4K displays)

I wouldn't use the check boxes on the left side of the GUI to change from 4K60 to 4K30 8 bit, etc. I would go to the right side of that GUI and go under the Deep Color drop down and select it to force 8 bit (along with the EDID 8 I mentioned)


----------



## darkangelism

taylor34 said:


> So what are people with the Epson 5040 and Xbox One X combo doing here? Buying the HD Fury, returning the Xbox One X, etc? I don't care about HDR at all, but everything I've read makes it sound like the One X outputs in 10 bit mode regardless causing the 5040ube to have to shift to 1080p instead. I bought the 5040ube back in June just to play 4k games on my ps4 pro (which works fine) and the Xbox One X, but I'm tempted just to return my scorpio to Best Buy and sell my 5040ub since I doubt Microsoft does anything to fix this issue.


i mean games still look better with 4k assets and the other improvements.


----------



## taylor34

darkangelism said:


> i mean games still look better with 4k assets and the other improvements.


True, but with the way it is right now I might as well have a 1080p projector, I'd still get the same benefits.  That's really the problem, the way it is now, the Epson 5040ube isn't doing anything that a 1080p projector wouldn't do unless you get the HD Fury.


----------



## Nutdotnet

taylor34 said:


> True, but with the way it is right now I might as well have a 1080p projector, I'd still get the same benefits.  That's really the problem, the way it is now, the Epson 5040ube isn't doing anything that a 1080p projector wouldn't do unless you get the HD Fury.




Not entirely true, but yes, you really need a linker to get the most out of the X.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## darkangelism

taylor34 said:


> True, but with the way it is right now I might as well have a 1080p projector, I'd still get the same benefits.  That's really the problem, the way it is now, the Epson 5040ube isn't doing anything that a 1080p projector wouldn't do unless you get the HD Fury.


watch UHD movies?


----------



## SALadder22FF

Anyone have any 4k HDR / 60fps or whatever enhancements your game has to report with this fury linker fix? 

Worth it? Not?



Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

taylor34 said:


> True, but with the way it is right now I might as well have a 1080p projector, I'd still get the same benefits.  That's really the problem, the way it is now, the Epson 5040ube isn't doing anything that a 1080p projector wouldn't do unless you get the HD Fury.



Well with its eShift fauxK it can give you resolution somewhere between 1080p and 2160p, plus it gets rid of screen door effect. so it helps improve image quality some. 

UHD Blurays with HDR WCG are a big step up from regular Blurays on it too. Can't speak for games since I don't do that really, but I'm sure there some improvement over plain 1080p.


----------



## taylor34

Dave Harper said:


> Well with its eShift fauxK it can give you resolution somewhere between 1080p and 2160p, plus it gets rid of screen door effect. so it helps improve image quality some.
> 
> UHD Blurays with HDR WCG are a big step up from regular Blurays on it too. Can't speak for games since I don't do that really, but I'm sure there some improvement over plain 1080p.


See and I only game (own 0 4k blurays) so for me it essential isn't any better than a 1080p projector with this current limitation on the Xbox One X. For movies I agree that you're in a much better spot and it may not be an issue at all...although I don't know why you'd own an Xbox One X if you're not going to game with it.  

My comments are only Xbox One X/5040ube compatibility, not on the projector in general.


----------



## ufsuperfly

Question wouldn’t it be better to get the new HDFury Vertex instead of the Linker? I know it’s more $$ but wouldn’t it give you the most flexibility? https://www.hdfury.com/product/vertex-4k60-444-600mhz/#tab-tab-features
https://www.hdfury.com/comparison/


----------



## hoogs

Well my initial thoughts with the linker is this. Yes you get all checkboxes and some games (Madden) do switch over to 4K HDR (Halo does not for some reason). So the linker is doing it's job for sure. Here are my thoughts on games and Netflix HDR.

Madden - HDR makes things really dim on this projector imo. I tried switching over to HDR1 which actually made it much better, but weirdly in certain cutscenes and the menu it's really dim and still dimmer during gameplay without HDR.

Netflix - Looks great in HDR, but I watched the same scene in Stranger things back to back with and without the linker and noticed very little difference.

Halo - Exact same with or without linker. Same signal, no HDR


So in my first tests, the linker to me is not worth the $200. The HDR when enabled is way too dim for my liking, the bright punchy Madden in 4k without the linker looked better to my eyes. I'll do more testing, but there is definitely not a "Holy crap this looks way better" moment with the linker imo.

So maybe the X1X is already giving the Epson a 4k 8bit signal and not upscaling like it says in the dash. Or maybe the Epson is just THAT GOOD at faking it and either way looks excellent....who the hell knows at this point lol.


----------



## SALadder22FF

hoogs said:


> Well my initial thoughts with the linker is this. Yes you get all checkboxes and some games (Madden) do switch over to 4K HDR (Halo does not for some reason). So the linker is doing it's job for sure. Here are my thoughts on games and Netflix HDR.
> 
> Madden - HDR makes things really dim on this projector imo. I tried switching over to HDR1 which actually made it much better, but weirdly in certain cutscenes and the menu it's really dim and still dimmer during gameplay without HDR.
> 
> Netflix - Looks great in HDR, but I watched the same scene in Stranger things back to back with and without the linker and noticed very little difference.
> 
> Halo - Exact same with or without linker. Same signal, no HDR
> 
> 
> So in my first tests, the linker to me is not worth the $200. The HDR when enabled is way too dim for my liking, the bright punchy Madden in 4k without the linker looked better to my eyes. I'll do more testing, but there is definitely not a "Holy crap this looks way better" moment with the linker imo.
> 
> So maybe the X1X is already giving the Epson a 4k 8bit signal and not upscaling like it says in the dash. Or maybe the Epson is just THAT GOOD at faking it and either way looks excellent....who the hell knows at this point lol.


I know people had that problem with HDR uhds. Are you using Harpervision?

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## hoogs

What is Harpervision?


EDIT: Found it, I'll try that today


----------



## carp

Dave Harper said:


> Well with its eShift fauxK it can give you resolution somewhere between 1080p and 2160p, *plus it gets rid of screen door effect*. so it helps improve image quality some.
> 
> UHD Blurays with HDR WCG are a big step up from regular Blurays on it too. Can't speak for games since I don't do that really, but I'm sure there some improvement over plain 1080p.



^This is huge for me. I like to sit close to a large screen so for those that have that kind of setup the 5040 is worth it even if the only difference was no more SDE.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

I own the European model TW-9300 & on the firmware in the website is 1.09. Is it safe to download the 5040 newer firmware 1.1 ?


----------



## muad'dib

hoogs said:


> What is Harpervision?
> 
> 
> EDIT: Found it, I'll try that today


What post # contains the pdf or spreadsheet for these settings... Thanks 

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## hoogs

muad'dib said:


> What post # contains the pdf or spreadsheet for these settings... Thanks
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


Pretty sure post 7220 is what they are talking about.


----------



## Uppsalaing

*HarperVision and WCG?*

New guy question (semi technical)...

As I understand it the Epson's filter gives us wider colour gamut, but reduces the light.

Does HarperVision take advantage of the full capability of the Epson's to display colour or is it a way to trade off some colour to get more Dynamic Range/degrees between dark and light?

It looks good, but I'm still between using it or default Digital Cinema settings... Just trying to understand what trade off I'm making


----------



## welldun

Uppsalaing said:


> New guy question (semi technical)...
> 
> As I understand it the Epson's filter gives us wider colour gamut, but reduces the light.
> 
> Does HarperVision take advantage of the full capability of the Epson's to display colour or is it a way to trade off some colour to get more Dynamic Range/degrees between dark and light?
> 
> It looks good, but I'm still between using it or default Digital Cinema settings... Just trying to understand what trade off I'm making


HarperVision is Dave Harper's version of the calibration tweaks that allow HDR specific content to look its best when using the Epson 5040ub. Therefore in order to get any value from HarperVision, you must use it when watching either HDR streamed material or HDR from a UHD 4k Disk. For standard material such as regular 1080p blu-ray or non HDR tv/streamed material, the settings will not improve the picture quality. 

To learn more about the difference, research SDR vs HDR. 

With regard to the Epson 5040UB projector, it does allow HDR/WCG to be processed and displayed, however, initially many of us complained that the picture was not bright enough with the default HDR settings of the projector. HarperVision allows us to get both a good WCG range as well as HDR Brightness with good shadow details. However, to achieve this, it uses a non-traditional combination of the SDR brightness of the projector along with the WCG of the BT2020 source material. So it is in essence a Hybrid calibration that allows for the 5040ub to looks its best when watching HDR material. 

*NOTE: there are other settings in this forum that also offer a good picture while still using the HDR settings of the 5040ub. Take a look at Oledurt's settings as an example.


----------



## Uppsalaing

welldun said:


> HarperVision is Dave Harper's version of the calibration tweaks that allow HDR specific content to look its best when using the Epson 5040ub. Therefore in order to get any value from HarperVision, you must use it when watching either HDR streamed material or HDR from a UHD 4k Disk. For standard material such as regular 1080p blu-ray or non HDR tv/streamed material, the settings will not improve the picture quality.
> 
> To learn more about the difference, research SDR vs HDR.
> 
> With regard to the Epson 5040UB projector, it does allow HDR/WCG to be processed and displayed, however, initially many of us complained that the picture was not bright enough with the default HDR settings of the projector. HarperVision allows us to get both a good WCG range as well as HDR Brightness with good shadow details. However, to achieve this, it uses a non-traditional combination of the SDR brightness of the projector along with the WCG of the BT2020 source material. So it is in essence a Hybrid calibration that allows for the 5040ub to looks its best when watching HDR material.
> 
> *NOTE: there are other settings in this forum that also offer a good picture while still using the HDR settings of the 5040ub. Take a look at Oledurt's settings as an example.


Thanks for the detailed response.

I think I was confused as I mistakenly thought the Harpervision settings used the Bright Cinema setting, which doesn't use the colour filter instead of the Digital Cinema setting which does use the colour filter. I have rechecked the settings and indeed Harpervision uses the filter...


----------



## jeffsaha

Has anyone, who has gotten the Xbox One X + HDfury Linker working using the wireless (5040ube), gotten Atmos bitstreaming to work? 

Before receiving the Linker, I was getting 4k with no HDR (reason for Linker), but audio bitstreaming Dolby Atmos worked properly. 
That setup was: 

X1X -> Wireless ube unit -> PJ. The HDMI out on the wireless unit is set to pass audio to a Denon AVR-S920W.

After putting in the Linker, I am able to get the X1X to show all green checks in the 4k HDR checker and play AC:O with HDR using HarperVision settings. Now, I am unable to set audio bitstreaming to Dolby Atmos on the X1X as it says the "receiver doesn't support Dolby Atmos". 
This setup is: 

X1X -> Linker -> Wireless ube unit -> PJ. The HDMI out was not changed and still set to pass audio to the Denon AVR-S920W.

I have also tried, but failed to get HDR: 
X1X -> AVR -> Linker -> HDMI1 on PJ
X1x -> AVR -> Linker -> Wireless on PJ 
X1X -> Linker -> AVR -> HDMI1 on PJ 
X1X -> Linker -> AVR -> Wireless on PJ 

Is there a setting I am missing on the Linker that would remedy this?

Thanks!


----------



## viperlogic

Calibrating my Epson 7300 (aka 5040) with xrite i1d3 pro and HCFR and looking for help with gamma. I currently have it set to -1 which results in a 2.27 average gamma thou it doesn't follow the reference curve. How do the custom settings work with the 9 colour tones as setting the 9 points to -1 is not the same as setting gamma to -1?


----------



## Juiced46

hoogs said:


> Well my initial thoughts with the linker is this. Yes you get all checkboxes and some games (Madden) do switch over to 4K HDR (Halo does not for some reason). So the linker is doing it's job for sure. Here are my thoughts on games and Netflix HDR.
> 
> Madden - HDR makes things really dim on this projector imo. I tried switching over to HDR1 which actually made it much better, but weirdly in certain cutscenes and the menu it's really dim and still dimmer during gameplay without HDR.
> 
> Netflix - Looks great in HDR, but I watched the same scene in Stranger things back to back with and without the linker and noticed very little difference.
> 
> Halo - Exact same with or without linker. Same signal, no HDR
> 
> 
> So in my first tests, the linker to me is not worth the $200. The HDR when enabled is way too dim for my liking, the bright punchy Madden in 4k without the linker looked better to my eyes. I'll do more testing, but there is definitely not a "Holy crap this looks way better" moment with the linker imo.
> 
> So maybe the X1X is already giving the Epson a 4k 8bit signal and not upscaling like it says in the dash. Or maybe the Epson is just THAT GOOD at faking it and either way looks excellent....who the hell knows at this point lol.


I suggest trying the Harpervision settings. It should make a world of difference and not be too dim. I use it for Amazon Prime through the Xbox and for PS4 Pro HDR gaming and it looks amazing. Just make sure you have it setup CORRECTLY. Most people forget to set the Dynamic Range in the projector to SDR. This is very important.


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey Everyone! Got my Xbox One X setup and decided to make a couple videos. This first one is of me playing Star Wars Battlefront 2. I’m not getting HDR but I’m almost 100% positive I’m getting 4K resolution without any issues. Let me know what you guys think. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Here’s some pics of me playing Gears of War 4 and Battlefront 2















































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

jeffsaha said:


> Has anyone, who has gotten the Xbox One X + HDfury Linker working using the wireless (5040ube), gotten Atmos bitstreaming to work?
> 
> Before receiving the Linker, I was getting 4k with no HDR (reason for Linker), but audio bitstreaming Dolby Atmos worked properly.
> That setup was:
> 
> X1X -> Wireless ube unit -> PJ. The HDMI out on the wireless unit is set to pass audio to a Denon AVR-S920W.
> 
> After putting in the Linker, I am able to get the X1X to show all green checks in the 4k HDR checker and play AC:O with HDR using HarperVision settings. Now, I am unable to set audio bitstreaming to Dolby Atmos on the X1X as it says the "receiver doesn't support Dolby Atmos".
> This setup is:
> 
> X1X -> Linker -> Wireless ube unit -> PJ. The HDMI out was not changed and still set to pass audio to the Denon AVR-S920W.
> 
> I have also tried, but failed to get HDR:
> X1X -> AVR -> Linker -> HDMI1 on PJ
> X1x -> AVR -> Linker -> Wireless on PJ
> X1X -> Linker -> AVR -> HDMI1 on PJ
> X1X -> Linker -> AVR -> Wireless on PJ
> 
> Is there a setting I am missing on the Linker that would remedy this?
> 
> Thanks!


How does AC:O look with HDR? 

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## jeffsaha

SALadder22FF said:


> How does AC:O look with HDR?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


I did AC:O with the vanilla Xbox One (1080p), then with 4k on X1X, and then 4k w/ Linker HDR. Each time it looked better and better with each step. Currently using HarperVision settings with the Linker and it's real nice


----------



## muad'dib

SALadder22FF said:


> How does AC:O look with HDR?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


What avr do you have..
If it's yamaha, you have to go into advanced settings and change video mode from 2 to mode 1..

Mode 1 allows hdr..

I hookup, xbox x, ps4 pro, uhd all to yamaha, Thrn to linker Thrn projector..

Get atmos and 4khdr

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Here’s a second video of SW Battlefront 2 on Xbox One X







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

jeffsaha said:


> I did AC:O with the vanilla Xbox One (1080p), then with 4k on X1X, and then 4k w/ Linker HDR. Each time it looked better and better with each step. Currently using HarperVision settings with the Linker and it's real nice


Awesome. I'll be getting a linker soon hopefully for that HDR and 60fps Titanfall 2

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

hoogs said:


> What is Harpervision?



I'm HarperVision! 



Uppsalaing said:


> New guy question (semi technical)...
> 
> As I understand it the Epson's filter gives us wider colour gamut, but reduces the light.
> 
> Does HarperVision take advantage of the full capability of the Epson's to display colour or is it a way to trade off some colour to get more Dynamic Range/degrees between dark and light?
> 
> It looks good, but I'm still between using it or default Digital Cinema settings... Just trying to understand what trade off I'm making



Yes it uses the DCI-P3 Color filter in the Digital Cinema setting. As mentioned the key thing is setting it to SDR mode manually while still sending full HDR to the 5040. The other key cog in this is the custom gamma curve. Then you'll probably have to boost up color saturation and and change tint slightly. If you use test patterns its easy. 



muad'dib said:


> What post # contains the pdf or spreadsheet for these settings... Thanks
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk



You're better off following my settings in the post below in my signature. The only thing missing is custom CMS settings........don't ask!


----------



## migsta

Using a very old but high quality Audioquest HDMI Cinnamon cable that's about 40ft to go from my AVM60 to the 6040UB. For the most part, the cable seems to work fine save some blips with the Nvidia Shield whereby it will just lose the signal and come back or come back and I have to hit play again to resume playback. Everything though, Shield, Apple TV4K and the Panny UHD, TiVo 4k PVR seem to display fine over 4k. 

Will I see any difference, or at least get the Nvidia to stop blipping, with an HDMI extender over CAT6. Thinking of getting one by Blustream. Any ideas before I splurge the coin. CEC is turned off on the Nvidia which some suggested may cause the blipping.


----------



## JewDaddy

Can someone post a link to the HD Linker they’re using to get 4K and HDR with the PS4 and Xbox X?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rjguk

Nutdotnet said:


> Does anyone happen to know where I can find the dimensions of the 5040’s feet locations?
> 
> I’m trying to determine whether this will fit where I have my 5020 if I purchase it. I know it’s longer than the 5020 but I’m trying to figure out the length between the front feet and rear foot.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think your query got lost in the noise. This UK dealer's page shows the measurements: https://www.idealav.co.uk/product/epson-eh-tw9300/
This is the mounting details: https://www.idealav.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/9300-cad-Bottom.png

(Yes, I know it is hard to read, but if you zoom in you'll see the measurements)


----------



## Dominic Chan

rjguk said:


> I think your query got lost in the noise. This UK dealer's page shows the measurements: https://www.idealav.co.uk/product/epson-eh-tw9300/
> This is the mounting details: https://www.idealav.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/9300-cad-Bottom.png
> 
> (Yes, I know it is hard to read, but if you zoom in you'll see the measurements)


The projector has 9 mounting holes, but the Chief mounting plate only uses 4 of them.


----------



## mase1981

Hey Guys, 
what am amazing thread. read all of it. 
i have the XB1X and other devices connected to my yamaha RX-A2060 going to the 6040UB. 
After reading here i went ahead and ordered this: https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
Now, i have read here and also in the dedicated linker thread, since i am new to the linker i would like to state what i "believe" i need to do and if someone that have it can please confirm that would be really appreciated !!!

1. Get the linker. 
2. Update the firmware. 
3. Configure the linker to EDID 8 and then accept input at 4k60-444 600MHz HDR BT.2020 All Sound and output at: 
4k30 8/10/12 -> 4k30 422 12 300, 4k60 600 -> 4k 60 420 300? 
4. Plug the linker between Yamaha RX-A2060 --> Linker --> 6040UB

Is that correct? i will be a n00b to the linker, but want to make sure i learn as much about it and the proper setup for my scenario before i get it. 
Would really appreciate it if someone can please confirm or suggest or maybe can point me to a good toturial or something  
thank you so much guys !


----------



## Azekecse

migsta said:


> Using a very old but high quality Audioquest HDMI Cinnamon cable that's about 40ft to go from my AVM60 to the 6040UB. For the most part, the cable seems to work fine save some blips with the Nvidia Shield whereby it will just lose the signal and come back or come back and I have to hit play again to resume playback. Everything though, Shield, Apple TV4K and the Panny UHD, TiVo 4k PVR seem to display fine over 4k.
> 
> Will I see any difference, or at least get the Nvidia to stop blipping, with an HDMI extender over CAT6. Thinking of getting one by Blustream. Any ideas before I splurge the coin. CEC is turned off on the Nvidia which some suggested may cause the blipping.


Hello Migsta,

I'm currently using Celerity Technologies Detachable Fiber Optic HDMI Cable this works well for me, no blips w/ the Nvidia Shield, Apple 4K TV, Oppo 203, X1X. The only blips that occur is when I change the AV source on the Marantz 7011. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

mase1981 said:


> Hey Guys,
> what am amazing thread. read all of it.
> i have the XB1X and other devices connected to my yamaha RX-A2060 going to the 6040UB.
> After reading here i went ahead and ordered this: https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> Now, i have read here and also in the dedicated linker thread, since i am new to the linker i would like to state what i "believe" i need to do and if someone that have it can please confirm that would be really appreciated !!!
> 
> 1. Get the linker.
> 2. Update the firmware.
> 3. Configure the linker to EDID 8 and then accept input at 4k60-444 600MHz HDR BT.2020 All Sound and output at:
> 4k30 8/10/12 -> 4k30 422 12 300, 4k60 600 -> 4k 60 420 300?
> 4. Plug the linker between Yamaha RX-A2060 --> Linker --> 6040UB
> 
> Is that correct? i will be a n00b to the linker, but want to make sure i learn as much about it and the proper setup for my scenario before i get it.
> Would really appreciate it if someone can please confirm or suggest or maybe can point me to a good toturial or something
> thank you so much guys !


Hey Mase,

I'm curious as well, to see if the linker it's worth it with the Epson 6040 or if I should get a Pro ISF calibration instead. Please keep us posted on your findings.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## mase1981

Azekecse said:


> Hey Mase,
> 
> I'm curious as well, to see if the linker it's worth it with the Epson 6040 or if I should get a Pro ISF calibration instead. Please keep us posted on your findings.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


i had my PRJ pro ISF calibrated which after all said and done was underwhelming... So now i am using community settings mixed with the pro calibration and for the most part the PRJ looks great. However now with the xb1x i want HDR 4K gaming, so taking a chance with the linker. Hopefully someone can confirm or deny my suggested settings


----------



## muad'dib

mase1981 said:


> Hey Guys,
> what am amazing thread. read all of it.
> i have the XB1X and other devices connected to my yamaha RX-A2060 going to the 6040UB.
> After reading here i went ahead and ordered this: https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> Now, i have read here and also in the dedicated linker thread, since i am new to the linker i would like to state what i "believe" i need to do and if someone that have it can please confirm that would be really appreciated !!!
> 
> 1. Get the linker.
> 2. Update the firmware.
> 3. Configure the linker to EDID 8 and then accept input at 4k60-444 600MHz HDR BT.2020 All Sound and output at:
> 4k30 8/10/12 -> 4k30 422 12 300, 4k60 600 -> 4k 60 420 300?
> 4. Plug the linker between Yamaha RX-A2060 --> Linker --> 6040UB
> 
> Is that correct? i will be a n00b to the linker, but want to make sure i learn as much about it and the proper setup for my scenario before i get it.
> Would really appreciate it if someone can please confirm or suggest or maybe can point me to a good toturial or something
> thank you so much guys !


Sounds good..

Just make sure you set yamaha advances video settings to Mode 1 from the default mode 2..
If you don't, yamaha out of the box does not pass HDR..

Also for linker firmware... I actually like the firmware 0.19a better than new one..

Seems to work better with yamaha and Epson...
Less issues..

With newestest firmware, had detection issues, no signal message , etc... Had to restart yamaha, change input then back, turn off projector then back on etc.. To get sync perfect...



Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## mase1981

muad'dib said:


> Sounds good..
> 
> Just make sure you set yamaha advances video settings to Mode 1 from the default mode 2..
> If you don't, yamaha out of the box does not pass HDR..
> 
> Also for linker firmware... I actually like the firmware 0.19a better than new one..
> 
> Seems to work better with yamaha and Epson...
> Less issues..
> 
> With newestest firmware, had detection issues, no signal message , etc... Had to restart yamaha, change input then back, turn off projector then back on etc.. To get sync perfect...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


Thank you for confirming, good to know about the firmware (odd that it happened like that)....
Yeah, my yamaha already set to 1. 
Any chance you could please upload screenshots of the linker settings? while i understand what to do, i want to ensure i do it right. Screenshot will help all of us in the same scenario. Thank you man, appreciate it !


----------



## muad'dib

mase1981 said:


> Thank you for confirming, good to know about the firmware (odd that it happened like that)....
> Yeah, my yamaha already set to 1.
> Any chance you could please upload screenshots of the linker settings? while i understand what to do, i want to ensure i do it right. Screenshot will help all of us in the same scenario. Thank you man, appreciate it !


See photos below.. From the bluetooth
App for linker..










Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## mase1981

muad'dib said:


> See photos below.. From the bluetooth
> App for linker..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


Thank you ! i assume the app and the pc config are identical... Since i did not purchased the extra 50$ BT dongle.....?


----------



## muad'dib

mase1981 said:


> Thank you ! i assume the app and the pc config are identical... Since i did not purchased the extra 50$ BT dongle.....?


It looks different on PC. But choose same options values like the photos..  

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

Dave Harper said:


> I'm HarperVision!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it uses the DCI-P3 Color filter in the Digital Cinema setting. As mentioned the key thing is setting it to SDR mode manually while still sending full HDR to the 5040. The other key cog in this is the custom gamma curve. Then you'll probably have to boost up color saturation and and change tint slightly. If you use test patterns its easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're better off following my settings in the post below in my signature. The only thing missing is custom CMS settings........don't ask!


I went to the 5040 Harpervision link and it shows a screen shot of custom gamma curve selected but not values which I'm guessing are needed to setup a custom gamma curve? Thanks


----------



## Natrix1973

WynsWrld98 said:


> I went to the 5040 Harpervision link and it shows a screen shot of custom gamma curve selected but not values which I'm guessing are needed to setup a custom gamma curve? Thanks


Check again. They are listed right next to the picture at the bottom right.

Settings are, from left to right 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 16, 32.


----------



## jwhn

viperlogic said:


> Calibrating my Epson 7300 (aka 5040) with xrite i1d3 pro and HCFR and looking for help with gamma. I currently have it set to -1 which results in a 2.27 average gamma thou it doesn't follow the reference curve. How do the custom settings work with the 9 colour tones as setting the 9 points to -1 is not the same as setting gamma to -1?


Setting the 9 points to -1 is not the same as the -1 gamma setting. Very different things.

For the custom settings you need to use your meter to measure the grey scale and adjust each tone to your target. It can be a very iterative process. Someone in the calibration thread estimated which steps on the 5040UB custom gamma settings map to which steps of the gamma curve. See below. I found it close but not perfect. You can get a lot of help in the calibration / HCFR thread. You will see some detailed exchanges with Dominic with someone calibrating their 5040. I would suggest reading through those exchanges.



C1
C2	5-15
C3	15-25
C4	25-35
C5	35-40
C6	40-50
C7	50-60
C8	70-80
C9	90-100


----------



## Dominic Chan

Dave Harper said:


> You're better off following my settings in the post below in my signature.


When would one use the settings in Post 7223 which are completely different from the settings in Post 7220?


----------



## seplant

edgecrush said:


> I'm not sure what SBS mkv files are? I'm playing the Guardians of the Galaxy 2 3D Steelbook copy from Best Buy. It's a store bought copy. I didn't get too deep into the movie to really stare and check for severe ghosting, because I figured the strips down the sides were just another example of the ghosting/cross talk. Are there any specific scenes from Rogue One that you know of, that I could check out? I do have that in 3D as well....Store bought copy.


The best examples of bad ghosting in Rogue One are at the beginning just before and when Krennic's ship lands. Very bad ghosting of the ship wings. Also, the scene later when Cassian and Jyn are scouting Jedha City and you see the Star Destroyer hovering over the city. I almost always see bad ghosting of the cliff wall on the right. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> For the custom settings you need to use your meter to measure the grey scale and adjust each tone to your target. It can be a very iterative process. Someone in the calibration thread estimated which steps on the 5040UB custom gamma settings map to which steps of the gamma curve. See below. I found it close but not perfect. You can get a lot of help in the calibration / HCFR thread. You will see some detailed exchanges with Dominic with someone calibrating their 5040. I would suggest reading through those exchanges.


I wasn't sure of the correspondence between the graph points and the stimulus levels, so I went with the option of "adjusting from image", displaying each pattern in turn and adjusting the control to get the required gamma.


----------



## Nutdotnet

rjguk said:


> I think your query got lost in the noise. This UK dealer's page shows the measurements: https://www.idealav.co.uk/product/epson-eh-tw9300/
> This is the mounting details: https://www.idealav.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/9300-cad-Bottom.png
> 
> (Yes, I know it is hard to read, but if you zoom in you'll see the measurements)




Thank you!!!

Edit - am I reading that right? 257mm from front feet to back foot = 10.1 inches?

Geez, if so, that’s even less than my 5020. Will fit on my shelf no problem (size of the overall projector is no issue, just where the feet are).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ht guy

*5040 6040 AVS Forum Users' Settings Summary*



muad'dib said:


> What post # contains the pdf or spreadsheet for these settings... Thanks
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


here you go:

(file deleted. latest version is here.)


----------



## muad'dib

ht guy said:


> here you go:


Thanks so much. 

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## ed3120

Would an nVidia Shield be able to pass both 4K and HDR simultaneously to the UB5040 or would the Shield output or UB5040 input limit the transfer to either 1080p with HDR or 4K with Rec 709?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## john barlow

mase1981 said:


> Thank you ! i assume the app and the pc config are identical... Since i did not purchased the extra 50$ BT dongle.....?


 I like that Bluetooth app. Does it appear with the same nice graphics for the Integral? I'd like to know where to pick this software up. I hate the software for my Integral. My PC shrinks it down to illegible font size and it looks like someone squished it, actually quite annoying to me.


----------



## c.kingsley

taylor34 said:


> See and I only game (own 0 4k blurays) so for me it essential isn't any better than a 1080p projector with this current limitation on the Xbox One X. For movies I agree that you're in a much better spot and it may not be an issue at all...although I don't know why you'd own an Xbox One X if you're not going to game with it.
> 
> My comments are only Xbox One X/5040ube compatibility, not on the projector in general.


You would be gaming at 4k60p 4:2:0 SDR on an Xbox One X. How is that not an improvement (vast) over 1080p?


----------



## hoogs

Anyone have good settings for standard content? I messed around with the HarperVision and found when I changed to BT2020 manually the colors popped alot more in everything. Switching back to 709 looks dull, but everything is a bit too over saturated. Would love some settings that you guys have landed on. Thanks


EDIT: Never mind I see the above PDF....thanks!


----------



## chiltonj

Does anyone have issues with scrolling sports tickers being blurry? In this case it's on ESPN when the ticker scrolls across the bottom of the screen. Thanks. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

chiltonj said:


> Does anyone have issues with scrolling sports tickers being blurry? In this case it's on ESPN when the ticker scrolls across the bottom of the screen.


Have you tried different settings of Frame Interpolation (assuming the source is 1080p)?


----------



## taylor34

c.kingsley said:


> You would be gaming at 4k60p 4:2:0 SDR on an Xbox One X. How is that not an improvement (vast) over 1080p?


Because the Xbox One X currently doesn't think the Epson can handle the 10 bit 4k signal so it renders at 1080p and upscales it to a 4k 8 bit output (according to the picture someone posted earlier). Basically Xbox One X + Epson 5040ub = 1080p render upscaled to 4k by one x, Xbox One X + Epson + hd fury = Xbox one x render at 4k no upscale. So without the fury, you don't get the rendering right evidently (according to the pictures posted). The picture for games will look pretty much the same on a 1080p projector or 4k projector.


----------



## jwhn

ed3120 said:


> Would an nVidia Shield be able to pass both 4K and HDR simultaneously to the UB5040 or would the Shield output or UB5040 input limit the transfer to either 1080p with HDR or 4K with Rec 709?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Yes it can but only at 24hz not at 60hz. And the source matters. Amazon yes, Netflix no. This has been discussed over and over on this thread.


----------



## migsta

Azekecse said:


> Hello Migsta,
> 
> I'm currently using Celerity Technologies Detachable Fiber Optic HDMI Cable this works well for me, no blips w/ the Nvidia Shield, Apple 4K TV, Oppo 203, X1X. The only blips that occur is when I change the AV source on the Marantz 7011. Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Thanks for the reply.

Went and got the Blustream (HEX70B-KIT) extender and it seems to work well thus far. Picture looks different and it seems to sound different - is that because there is more bandwidth now? I replaced the older 40ft HDMI with the Blustream Extender over CAT6 including the source connectors with high speed (18Gbs) HDMI cables. Anybody using the HEX70B-KIT. I wanted the Snapav/Binary 600 or 540 Series extender but this is the one that my dealer stocked and he said they've had good results with it.

What's the purpose then of the HD Fury Linker? What would I get out of that now - does it actually give me the ability to do 4k/60 4:4:4 + HDR?


----------



## ruggercb

So I keep going further down the HDR rabbit hole; I’ve been trying to get it running consistently on my PC now. Thing is, I’m running a custom res of 3840x1600 and an A lens. Works fine on the desktop when I turn on HDR, but then once I get in to a game it reverts to 3440x1440 which is a res recognized by the epson and one in which it refuses to scale the image to fill the screen(in SDR it fills the screen at 3840x1600)using nvidia control panel). So i have a squished HDR image.

I guess I’m curious what experimenting others have done with custom resolutions; from what I’m seeing a res like 3840x1600 HDR @60 hz(or at least 3440x1440) seems to fit in the chipset limitations...I’m just not sure if I’m clever enough to take advantage of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

hoogs said:


> Anyone have good settings for standard content? I messed around with the HarperVision and found when I changed to BT2020 manually the colors popped alot more in everything. Switching back to 709 looks dull, but everything is a bit too over saturated. Would love some settings that you guys have landed on. Thanks
> 
> 
> EDIT: Never mind I see the above PDF....thanks!


Use last couple of pages in PDF in post 11512 from hd guy. The first few pages have HDR at top of pages then changes to SDR. Try some of the SDR settings.


----------



## Juiced46

My Linker shows up tomorrow. I can't wait to see how this works with my Xbox One X. 

For you guys using the Linker. Are you hooking it up between the Xbox and AVR or between the AVR and Projector?

My question is, if its hooked between the AVR and Projector, wont it affect other sources like if I am using my cable box or PS4 when I do not need it?

Also, do I need to make any changes to the Linker? Say if I want to watch a UHD Blu Ray through my Xbox since those signals are supported and no Linker is needed for that signal? If I force 4K/60 8 bit(for gaming), I do not want to watch a movie in that since they should be 4K/24 12 Bit. I am assuming the Linker will not automatically do this?


----------



## darkangelism

Juiced46 said:


> My Linker shows up tomorrow. I can't wait to see how this works with my Xbox One X.
> 
> For you guys using the Linker. Are you hooking it up between the Xbox and AVR or between the AVR and Projector?
> 
> My question is, if its hooked between the AVR and Projector, wont it affect other sources like if I am using my cable box or PS4 when I do not need it?
> 
> Also, do I need to make any changes to the Linker? Say if I want to watch a UHD Blu Ray through my Xbox since those signals are supported and no Linker is needed for that signal? If I force 4K/60 8 bit(for gaming), I do not want to watch a movie in that since they should be 4K/24 12 Bit. I am assuming the Linker will not automatically do this?


From reading the past few pages I think the answers were between xbox and avr, and that it will just pass through the 4k24 sigal and not mess with it.


----------



## Azekecse

Juiced46 said:


> My Linker shows up tomorrow. I can't wait to see how this works with my Xbox One X.
> 
> For you guys using the Linker. Are you hooking it up between the Xbox and AVR or between the AVR and Projector?
> 
> My question is, if its hooked between the AVR and Projector, wont it affect other sources like if I am using my cable box or PS4 when I do not need it?
> 
> Also, do I need to make any changes to the Linker? Say if I want to watch a UHD Blu Ray through my Xbox since those signals are supported and no Linker is needed for that signal? If I force 4K/60 8 bit(for gaming), I do not want to watch a movie in that since they should be 4K/24 12 Bit. I am assuming the Linker will not automatically do this?


Yes can't wait to hear your opinion...I ordered one via Monoprice (15% off today only), so I saved around $30.00 including shipping costs, even though their initial price is $10.00 higher. Initially, I was going to place mine between the AVR (Marantz 7011) and the projector, since I have other components i.e. X1X, Nvidia Shield, Oppo 203, Apple 4K TV. Anyone have any opinions or thoughts on placement of the HD Linker??? 

Looks like I keep falling down the 4K rabbit hole, I might see Alice and the Mad Hatter soon...At least I will see them 4K  .

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Nutdotnet

darkangelism said:


> From reading the past few pages I think the answers were between xbox and avr, and that it will just pass through the 4k24 sigal and not mess with it.




Actually, I’d put it between the AVR and the Epson. That way you can use it for all your source files.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Nutdotnet said:


> Actually, I’d put it between the AVR and the Epson. That way you can use it for all your source files.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



The thing is though. I do not need it for all of my sources. My main reason for the linker is to get 4K/60 HDR with the Xbox One X. I also use a PS4 Pro (which I could use the linker for the same purpose) But also use cable TV and a Nintendo switch. If I use Dave Harpers suggestions of EDID 8 and Force 8 bit for 4K/60 for my gaming needs, will this do anything to the other sources or when I am trying to send 4K/24 12 Bit like when I use Amazon Prime or UHD Blu Rays through the Xbox and I do not need the Linker? If I can set it and forget it and the Linker will adjust the signal accordingly for everything, that would be awesome. I just do not want the Linker to Force 4K/60 8 bit, when I want to watch a UHD Blu Ray or Amazon Prime.


----------



## Black Banshee

So I've been playing my new Xbox One X this weekend with various games (Wolfenstein 2, Rise of the Tomb Raider, Gears of War 4) on my Epson 5040 and I have to say the picture looks amazing. The level of detail is stunning and if this is just a 1080P upscaled picture, I can't imagine how a native 4K picture could look much better (if at all). I have been considering getting the HDfury linker but I just can't imagine it's worth the $200. Has anyone actually been able to do a side-by-side objective comparison on Xbox One X games and convinced themselves the picture is truly better with the Linker?


----------



## c.kingsley

taylor34 said:


> Because the Xbox One X currently doesn't think the Epson can handle the 10 bit 4k signal so it renders at 1080p and upscales it to a 4k 8 bit output (according to the picture someone posted earlier). Basically Xbox One X + Epson 5040ub = 1080p render upscaled to 4k by one x, Xbox One X + Epson + hd fury = Xbox one x render at 4k no upscale. So without the fury, you don't get the rendering right evidently (according to the pictures posted). The picture for games will look pretty much the same on a 1080p projector or 4k projector.


The 5040 can't handle 4k60 at 10bit so the Xbox is correct in detecting this. The problem is that it appears on the surface that if 4k60 10bit support is not detected, the X1X falls back to 1080p. I "verified" this using the method of setting the output to 1080p. With the Linker, the resolution changes to 4k when the game launches and without it does not.


My thoughts:

I can 100% verify this behavior but I can't _really_ validate that the image on screen is actually a 1080p upscale. I took some photos and I could not discern a difference in image quality between the upscale 1080p -> 4k and the native 4k via the Linker. There are vast differences in color and I'm doubtful that the faux 4:2:0 BT2020 HDR output is actually a faithful representation of the game. In my testing I noticed some banding for sure and there was blooming that I couldn't remove without making the picture unwatchable. Food for thought: what the game renders at in the GPU and what it outputs are often independent. Even on a 1080p display the game likely renders at 4k or near internally (super-sampling) and then is downscaled to output resolution. The render resolution is probably entirely a function of hardware, X1X vs X1, independent of the output type. Why would the game render at 4k and then downscale to 1080p only to upscale again to 4k? That doesn't make any sense (not to say it couldn't be exactly what is happening). Setting the Xbox to 4k without the Linker, the game looks much better to my eyes.

Here's some close up screenshots, bonus points if you can tell which is with the Linker and which is without:
https://imgur.com/a/qrdjI

All of this nonsense could have been avoided with an 18gbps signal chain. Shame on Epson for not including one.


----------



## Black Banshee

c.kingsley said:


> The 5040 can't handle 4k60 at 10bit so the Xbox is correct in detecting this. The problem is that it appears on the surface that if 4k60 10bit support is not detected, the X1X falls back to 1080p. I "verified" this using the method of setting the output to 1080p. With the Linker, the resolution changes to 4k when the game launches and without it does not.
> 
> 
> My thoughts:
> 
> I can 100% verify this behavior but I can't _really_ validate that the image on screen is actually a 1080p upscale. I took some photos and I could not discern a difference in image quality between the upscale 1080p -> 4k and the native 4k via the Linker. There are vast differences in color and I'm doubtful that the faux 4:2:0 BT2020 HDR output is actually a faithful representation of the game. In my testing I noticed some banding for sure and there was blooming that I couldn't remove without making the picture unwatchable. Food for thought: what the game renders at in the GPU and what it outputs are often independent. Even on a 1080p display the game likely renders at 4k or near internally (super-sampling) and then is downscaled to output resolution. The render resolution is probably entirely a function of hardware, X1X vs X1, independent of the output type. Why would the game render at 4k and then downscale to 1080p only to upscale again to 4k? That doesn't make any sense (not to say it couldn't be exactly what is happening). Setting the Xbox to 4k without the Linker, the game looks much better to my eyes.
> 
> Here's some close up screenshots, bonus points if you can tell which is with the Linker and which is without:
> https://imgur.com/a/qrdjI
> 
> All of this nonsense could have been avoided with an 18gbps signal chain. Shame on Epson for not including one.



Thanks for doing this. Those pics look like Lara Croft's wall research. I was just playing that last night on my Xbox One X (without the HDfury linker) and was amazed how much detail I could read on all those wall notes. I'm now convinced the Linker just ain't worth it!


----------



## Nutdotnet

Juiced46 said:


> The thing is though. I do not need it for all of my sources. My main reason for the linker is to get 4K/60 HDR with the Xbox One X. I also use a PS4 Pro (which I could use the linker for the same purpose) But also use cable TV and a Nintendo switch. If I use Dave Harpers suggestions of EDID 8 and Force 8 bit for 4K/60 for my gaming needs, will this do anything to the other sources or when I am trying to send 4K/24 12 Bit like when I use Amazon Prime or UHD Blu Rays through the Xbox and I do not need the Linker? If I can set it and forget it and the Linker will adjust the signal accordingly for everything, that would be awesome. I just do not want the Linker to Force 4K/60 8 bit, when I want to watch a UHD Blu Ray or Amazon Prime.


Then put it in between the Xbox and AVR then...

I wasn’t going to follow your specific scenario and needs...if all you want it for is the Xbox then there you go.

If it was me, I’d do what I recommended only because if I needed/wanted to use it for something else I could...from what others have said it’ll just be a pass through when not needed as well.


----------



## c.kingsley

Juiced46 said:


> My Linker shows up tomorrow. I can't wait to see how this works with my Xbox One X.
> 
> For you guys using the Linker. Are you hooking it up between the Xbox and AVR or between the AVR and Projector?
> 
> My question is, if its hooked between the AVR and Projector, wont it affect other sources like if I am using my cable box or PS4 when I do not need it?
> 
> Also, do I need to make any changes to the Linker? Say if I want to watch a UHD Blu Ray through my Xbox since those signals are supported and no Linker is needed for that signal? If I force 4K/60 8 bit(for gaming), I do not want to watch a movie in that since they should be 4K/24 12 Bit. I am assuming the Linker will not automatically do this?


When I use the Linker, I can't get it to work between the XB1X and the receiver. It continually desyncs and no option I found would resolve this problem.I have an Onkyo TX-RZ800. If I place the Linker between the 5040 and the receiver then it works fine.

The Linker will pass 4k24p 4:2:2 BT2020 HDR without manipulation. I tested my Philips UHD player in this configuration with the Linker between the AVR and PJ just a few minutes ago. What it does is present a false EDID to the X1X that enables 4k60 4:2:2. Then it takes that signal from the X1X and converts it to 4k60 4:2:0 for output.


----------



## c.kingsley

Black Banshee said:


> Thanks for doing this. Those pics look like Lara Croft's wall research. I was just playing that last night on my Xbox One X (without the HDfury linker) and was amazed how much detail I could read on all those wall notes. I'm now convinced the Linker just ain't worth it!


I agree with your assessment. I had the Linker sitting in the closet and pulled it out for these tests. It is going back in the closet. I saw no improvement and the sync time when changing resolutions is frustratingly long. Start up a UHD and it gets almost to the menu screen before the Linker figures out what is going on.


----------



## Dave Harper

WynsWrld98 said:


> I went to the 5040 Harpervision link and it shows a screen shot of custom gamma curve selected but not values which I'm guessing are needed to setup a custom gamma curve? Thanks



They're just below the picture. 



Dominic Chan said:


> When would one use the settings in Post 7223 which are completely different from the settings in Post 7220?



I'll have to look but if there's a later post then that means it's a more recent update to the settings. 



hoogs said:


> Anyone have good settings for standard content? I messed around with the HarperVision and found when I changed to BT2020 manually the colors popped alot more in everything. Switching back to 709 looks dull, but everything is a bit too over saturated. Would love some settings that you guys have landed on. Thanks
> 
> EDIT: Never mind I see the above PDF....thanks!



HarperVision is supposed to use HDR bt2020 ONLY, not standard content, so I'm not sure what you're even talking about?


----------



## Juiced46

c.kingsley said:


> When I use the Linker, I can't get it to work between the XB1X and the receiver. It continually desyncs and no option I found would resolve this problem.I have an Onkyo TX-RZ800. If I place the Linker between the 5040 and the receiver then it works fine.
> 
> The Linker will pass 4k24p 4:2:2 BT2020 HDR without manipulation. I tested my Philips UHD player in this configuration with the Linker between the AVR and PJ just a few minutes ago. What it does is present a false EDID to the X1X that enables 4k60 4:2:2. Then it takes that signal from the X1X and converts it to 4k60 4:2:0 for output.


Thanks for the description. This is exactly the info I wanted to read. Some of the other replies were stating "from what they read" and no offense to them, but I wanted to hear from someone who actually had experience. If the Linker works like you say, then I will just put it between the AVR and Epson and hopefully set it and forget it. Thanks.


----------



## mase1981

Juiced46 said:


> Thanks for the description. This is exactly the info I wanted to read. Some of the other replies were stating "from what they read" and no offense to them, but I wanted to hear from someone who actually had experience. If the Linker works like you say, then I will just put it between the AVR and Epson and hopefully set it and forget it. Thanks.


i am getting my linker as well in 2 days.. i also want to just set it and forget it.
so it seems the best config would be between AVR to Epson and EDID 2 (or 8??) with the below settings?....


----------



## mase1981

Juiced46 said:


> Thanks for the description. This is exactly the info I wanted to read. Some of the other replies were stating "from what they read" and no offense to them, but I wanted to hear from someone who actually had experience. If the Linker works like you say, then I will just put it between the AVR and Epson and hopefully set it and forget it. Thanks.


Hey, you have the PC GIU config or the Fury BT adapter? can you share your settings in a screenshot? a lot of us seems to be getting the linker in the next few days and have the exact set up (XB1X and 5040/6040) and i want to make sure i am ready and have all info when it arrive  
if you could please take a quick screenshot of ur config, that will be highly appreciated


----------



## Dominic Chan

Dave Harper said:


> I'll have to look but if there's a later post then that means it's a more recent update to the settings


No, the settings in 7223 are completely different. They are based on HDR, not SDR.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> No, the settings in 7223 are completely different. They are based on HDR, not SDR.




Your best bet is to download the sheet that has been referenced over the last few pages that includes daves settings...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

Sounds like different people are saying the linker is worth it and some say not. Any screenshots fur evidence either way

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

SALadder22FF said:


> Sounds like different people are saying the linker is worth it and some say not. Any screenshots fur evidence either way
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk



Would be good if people include their viewing distance because at 15-20 feet away it's pretty hard to see the difference between 1080p and 4K. Screen size is a factor also. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Dominic Chan said:


> No, the settings in 7223 are completely different. They are based on HDR, not SDR.



Oh yeah sorry. That 7223 one is the settings I made for Bright Cinema. 

They're both using HDR signals but my DIgital Cinema one is the one you change the projector's mode to SDR.


----------



## robc1976

I noticed something pretty drastic with the xB1s vs xbox x. With my Xbox S I used image preset mode at (2) anything higher resulted in interlacing white grainy type lines around objects in game and looked terrible. With the xbox X I decided to mess with it, went to image preset (4) and it brought out amazing detail, better texture ect. The xbox1s would look terrible with this setting. Wouldn't use this on movies. Dont know if it matters but this is a 4K enhanced game "Assassins creed orgins".

Looked amazing before but looks even better now.

Thought I would pass this on to others.


----------



## whmacs

mase1981 said:


> i am getting my linker as well in 2 days.. i also want to just set it and forget it.
> so it seems the best config would be between AVR to Epson and EDID 2 (or 8??) with the below settings?....


Hi Mase1981,
I have an Integral (not a linker) between my gear and the Epson. I have it set to option 8
8 – 4k60-420 12-bit HDR BT.2020 All Sound
This works very well and I've had no issues. The Epson does not support 4k60-444 only 4K60-420.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## Nutdotnet

Juiced46 said:


> Thanks for the description. This is exactly the info I wanted to read. Some of the other replies were stating "from what they read" and no offense to them, but I wanted to hear from someone who actually had experience. If the Linker works like you say, then I will just put it between the AVR and Epson and hopefully set it and forget it. Thanks.




Will you report your experience?

Your exact question (where to put the linker) was asked previously and answered by other users. Now that you seem to be using it as others (and I) had suggested (after the AVR...unless I’m misreading), it’ll be interesting if you have the same findings, or not.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Nutdotnet said:


> Will you report your experience?
> 
> Your exact question (where to put the linker) was asked previously and answered by other users. Now that you seem to be using it as others (and I) had suggested (after the AVR...unless I’m misreading), it’ll be interesting if you have the same findings, or not.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My Linker shows up today and Yes I will report my experience. While I appreciate your reply, you know how some info gets misinterpreted when people pass info they read along vs someone that has actual experience with it, no offense. I have been extremely active in this thread and I will continue to be and hopefully help others. I must have missed where actual users of the Linker made those reports.


----------



## viperlogic

Whats peoples take on having superwhite on or off when doing a calibration?

In my chain of Nvidia Shield -> Denon 2300 AVR -> Epson 7300 (5040) I'm getting clipping if superwhite is on or if superwhite is off and hdmi video range is set to normal. No clipping if superwhite is off and hdmi video range set to expanded.


----------



## ed3120

jwhn said:


> Yes it can but only at 24hz not at 60hz. And the source matters. Amazon yes, Netflix no. This has been discussed over and over on this thread.


Thanks. Is that limitation imposed by the Shield or by the 5040?


----------



## mase1981

Juiced46 said:


> My Linker shows up today and Yes I will report my experience. While I appreciate your reply, you know how some info gets misinterpreted when people pass info they read along vs someone that has actual experience with it, no offense. I have been extremely active in this thread and I will continue to be and hopefully help others. I must have missed where actual users of the Linker made those reports.


waiting to hear your thoughts, settings, config and tests


----------



## SALadder22FF

robc1976 said:


> I noticed something pretty drastic with the xB1s vs xbox x. With my Xbox S I used image preset mode at (2) anything higher resulted in interlacing white grainy type lines around objects in game and looked terrible. With the xbox X I decided to mess with it, went to image preset (4) and it brought out amazing detail, better texture ect. The xbox1s would look terrible with this setting. Wouldn't use this on movies. Dont know if it matters but this is a 4K enhanced game "Assassins creed orgins".
> 
> Looked amazing before but looks even better now.
> 
> Thought I would pass this on to others.


Thx I'll test out the preset 4 on this game and see what it looks like. I've been playing just normal no linker settings and the game is gorgeous on its own. Another added benefit of the X1X over the S is no draw differences. The power let's you see everything as far as the eye can see, truly amazing. 

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

viperlogic said:


> Whats peoples take on having superwhite on or off when doing a calibration?
> 
> In my chain of Nvidia Shield -> Denon 2300 AVR -> Epson 7300 (5040) I'm getting clipping if superwhite is on or if superwhite is off and hdmi video range is set to normal. No clipping if superwhite is off and hdmi video range set to expanded.



I leave SW off and video Range at normal. Have you tried turning contrast down to alleviate clipping (I assume you mean in the whites)?


----------



## taylor34

Juiced46 said:


> My Linker shows up today and Yes I will report my experience. While I appreciate your reply, you know how some info gets misinterpreted when people pass info they read along vs someone that has actual experience with it, no offense. I have been extremely active in this thread and I will continue to be and hopefully help others. I must have missed where actual users of the Linker made those reports.


This would be fantastic. I finally decided to open my Xbox One X yesterday and got the same screens as everyone else with my 5040ub (that it has to upscale, etc). However, I have no way to test what is actually happening, I would think the only way to truly figure out what is happening is to have a game that does 1080p/60fps and 4k at 30fps (or have a test pattern in a game), then you'd be able to tell whether:

a) the Xbox One X is actually rendering at 4k and Microsoft's warning is incorrect
b) the Xbox One X is actually rendering at 1080p and their warning is incorrect

I think Microsoft's warning is what is causing the issue here, nobody knows what the Xbox One X is really doing. If it didn't have all those warnings, nobody would have thought about it.


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> Thx I'll test out the preset 4 on this game and see what it looks like. I've been playing just normal no linker settings and the game is gorgeous on its own. Another added benefit of the X1X over the S is no draw differences. The power let's you see everything as far as the eye can see, truly amazing.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


I had it at 4 but did get eye stain so moved to (3) but 4 looks insane to me still.


----------



## mase1981

robc1976 said:


> I had it at 4 but did get eye stain so moved to (3) but 4 looks insane to me still.


Which pre sets are you guys referring to? the 4k enhancement pre set on the epson?


----------



## robc1976

mase1981 said:


> Which pre sets are you guys referring to? the 4k enhancement pre set on the epson?


 yes, had mine at 2 moved it to 4 and detail was unreal. My wife even commented. But for some reason gives me a bit of eyestrain, but I have sensitive eyes. Moved it to 3 and its good but not as awesome as 4. I wonder if these presets up the brightness or something? That would make sense with the eyestrain as it feels bright.


----------



## Nutdotnet

Juiced46 said:


> My Linker shows up today and Yes I will report my experience. While I appreciate your reply, you know how some info gets misinterpreted when people pass info they read along vs someone that has actual experience with it, no offense. I have been extremely active in this thread and I will continue to be and hopefully help others. I must have missed where actual users of the Linker made those reports.




Thank you! I’m personally down to a JVC420 vs the Epson + Linker. (I’m aware that the JVC will typically be favored but I have some other considerations that’s pushing me towards the Epson).

Since I have the OneX, I’ll be very interested to see if your experience is the same as others or what you find out in general.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## john barlow

Nutdotnet said:


> Thank you! I’m personally down to a JVC420 vs the Epson + Linker. (I’m aware that the JVC will typically be favored but I have some other considerations that’s pushing me towards the Epson).
> 
> Since I have the OneX, I’ll be very interested to see if your experience is the same as others or what you find out in general.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 With my Epson 5040UB, early on, as I came to find out that Epson's HDMI board would pass up to 10.2 gbps, and not the needed 18gbps, I has some remorse early on. After owning this projector for nearly eleven months, the remorse has all but dissipated. I love the picture and rendering of 4k and HDR films on Blu ray. I do stream and find that the only thing I am missing on Netflix is the HDR not being active. Still though, it would be nice. I have to say though that, most of my viewing films is on optical disc so, no problemo for the Epson. Maybe after two or three years with this most favorite projector for me so far, I will by that time, have a plethora of projectors to choose from. I imagine, I will choose Epson again. I love my 5040UB projector.


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> Thx I'll test out the preset 4 on this game and see what it looks like. I've been playing just normal no linker settings and the game is gorgeous on its own. Another added benefit of the X1X over the S is no draw differences. The power let's you see everything as far as the eye can see, truly amazing.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Here is 4 vs 2 but keep in mind this game the sun constantly changes, but you can see the difference immediately even on 3. With 1 or 2 it almost looks hazed. Still looks amazing but nowhere near as good.

Look at the breast plate, can get better pics of course.









Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Here is 4 vs 2 but keep in mind this game the sun constantly changes, but you can see the difference immediately even on 3. With 1 or 2 it almost looks hazed. Still looks amazing but nowhere near as good.
> 
> Look at the breast plate, can get better pics of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


Here is a better pic not in shade









Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

mase1981 said:


> waiting to hear your thoughts, settings, config and tests





Nutdotnet said:


> Thank you! I’m personally down to a JVC420 vs the Epson + Linker. (I’m aware that the JVC will typically be favored but I have some other considerations that’s pushing me towards the Epson).
> 
> Since I have the OneX, I’ll be very interested to see if your experience is the same as others or what you find out in general.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My Linker is here. I just got home from work. I am going to eat dinner and give it a go. I will give an update tonight. My plans are Xbox One X compatibility. 4K/HDR test with XB1X and compare it to the picture I was getting originally to see if this purchase is worth it. How the pass thru works when using my XB1X for Amazon, UHD and Netflix. 




taylor34 said:


> This would be fantastic. I finally decided to open my Xbox One X yesterday and got the same screens as everyone else with my 5040ub (that it has to upscale, etc). However, I have no way to test what is actually happening, I would think the only way to truly figure out what is happening is to have a game that does 1080p/60fps and 4k at 30fps (or have a test pattern in a game), then you'd be able to tell whether:
> 
> a) the Xbox One X is actually rendering at 4k and Microsoft's warning is incorrect
> b) the Xbox One X is actually rendering at 1080p and their warning is incorrect
> 
> I think Microsoft's warning is what is causing the issue here, nobody knows what the Xbox One X is really doing. If it didn't have all those warnings, nobody would have thought about it.



We talked about this a few pages back, a user posted a link to Xbox's support page explaining it. 

In short you are NOT getting Native 4K for sure. You are seeing a 1080P image upscaled to 4K. If you have your Xbox video settings set to "4K UHD" you are being upscaled to 4K. What is supposed to happen(and I tested it after I read the link) If you set video output to 1080P on the Xbox. The Xbox will AUTOMATICALLY switch to Native 4K ONLY if your display can handle it. So naturally, we see a 1080p signal in our info screen, because the Epson cannot handle the 4K/60 10 or 12 bit signal the Xbox gives out. I would have to go back and find the post for the link, but its right on Xboxs support page.

In the upscaled version, you still utilize 60fps, you just are not getting HDR or Native 4K, unless you add a Linker which I am going to do now.


----------



## bullpuss

*I have a 5040ub and would like to get 4k.......should i buy the Sony 4k bluray player and a linker to get 4k HDR. Thanks for any input*


----------



## PeterJ101

Any news / rumors about what's coming next from Epson 5040 series? Do you think we'll get a refresh at CES in January? Would be great to get full 4k with 18 GBPS with a 5050


----------



## WynsWrld98

bullpuss said:


> *I have a 5040ub and would like to get 4k.......should i buy the Sony 4k bluray player and a linker to get 4k HDR. Thanks for any input*


If you want to play 4K UHD Bluray discs with the Sony you don't need a Linker it will play 4K HDR on the Epson due to the UHD disc being 24 Hz. The issue comes to streaming and games with the Epson and trying to get HDR.


----------



## Dominic Chan

viperlogic said:


> Whats peoples take on having superwhite on or off when doing a calibration?
> 
> In my chain of Nvidia Shield -> Denon 2300 AVR -> Epson 7300 (5040) I'm getting clipping if superwhite is on or if superwhite is off and hdmi video range is set to normal. No clipping if superwhite is off and hdmi video range set to expanded.


At what level did you see clipping? There shouldn't be any clipping within the signal range if the projector super white is on, and the Nvidia Shield is outputing Limited Range. The Epson Super White is essentially Full Range on the top end, and Limited Range at the bottom end (i.e., 16-234).


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> My Linker is here. I just got home from work. I am going to eat dinner and give it a go. I will give an update tonight. My plans are Xbox One X compatibility. 4K/HDR test with XB1X and compare it to the picture I was getting originally to see if this purchase is worth it. How the pass thru works when using my XB1X for Amazon, UHD and Netflix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We talked about this a few pages back, a user posted a link to Xbox's support page explaining it.
> 
> In short you are NOT getting Native 4K for sure. You are seeing a 1080P image upscaled to 4K. If you have your Xbox video settings set to "4K UHD" you are being upscaled to 4K. What is supposed to happen(and I tested it after I read the link) If you set video output to 1080P on the Xbox. The Xbox will AUTOMATICALLY switch to Native 4K ONLY if your display can handle it. So naturally, we see a 1080p signal in our info screen, because the Epson cannot handle the 4K/60 10 or 12 bit signal the Xbox gives out. I would have to go back and find the post for the link, but its right on Xboxs support page.
> 
> In the upscaled version, you still utilize 60fps, you just are not getting HDR or Native 4K, unless you add a Linker which I am going to do now.


Can you pleaser post a link to the linker your using, have no idea which one to get. Would love to use Harper vision settings with xbox x.

Thank you

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

PeterJ101 said:


> Any news / rumors about what's coming next from Epson 5040 series? Do you think we'll get a refresh at CES in January? Would be great to get full 4k with 18 GBPS with a 5050


That would be awesome

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## mb1985

*Anyone notice blue pixels on projector screen?*

I have noticed that I have 2 small blue pixels on my screen, I know what they are, but just wondering if anyone else got them on their 5040ub? I just had these device for about 2 1/2 months now. If so, has anyone gotten rid of them? Please let me know how, thanks.


----------



## robc1976

Wondering if anyone here has used the HDTV xbox calibration app for adjusting brightness and contrast? 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Well so far, not the greatest news with my trial with the Linker and Xbox One X

I hooked it up tonight. Good news is. Using EDID 8 and forcing 8 Bit I get ALL green check marks in the video details screen. Games are running Native 4K and I am getting HDR. 

Bad news is, intermittent long sync times. I have the Linker hooked between my AVR and Epson. When I load an Xbox game, I get to the initial title screen, the projector flashes, image goes to the NO SIGNAL screen, sometimes its 5 seconds to sync, sometimes it was as much as 45 seconds. Once I got through that, games looked great in HDR using HarperVision. Was it a HUGE difference, at this point, it is too hard to tell. I did not do a back to back comparison yet. 

Amazon Prime and UHD Blu Rays through the Xbox One X with the Linker are NOT passing through the signal like others mentioned.Since I have the Linker set to EDID 8 and forced 8 Bit, It is forcing it to 4K/60k 8 Bit 4:2:0 still. With the Linker removed, Amazon Prime and UHDs play @ 4K/24 12 Bit 4:2:2. 

The Linker also shows what is being input, so I can see exactly what the Xbox is trying to do. The strange thing is, the Xbox is outputting 4K/60 12 Bit BT2020(non accepted signal with the Epson) with Amazon Prime UHD movies, but the Epson actually switches on its own with no Linker in the loop to 4K/24 12 Bit BT2020. 

UHD Blu Ray from the Xbox is outputting 4K/24 12 bit, but because the Linker is in the loop, the linker outputs it @ 4K/60 8 bit 4:2:0 BT2020

So long story short, with the Linker running EDID 8 forcing 8 bit on the Xbox, that is exactly what it outputs regardless of the signal it is getting. I do not know if there is a way around this. I tried a few things with no luck. If I force 8 bit, thats what it does no matter what.

I ended up not having as much time as I wanted tonight since my girlfriend had some car trouble and I was running around dealing with that for 3 hours.


----------



## Nutdotnet

Juiced46 said:


> Well so far, not the greatest news with my trial with the Linker and Xbox One X
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked it up tonight. Good news is. Using EDID 8 and forcing 8 Bit I get ALL green check marks in the video details screen. Games are running Native 4K and I am getting HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Bad news is, intermittent long sync times. I have the Linker hooked between my AVR and Epson. When I load an Xbox game, I get to the initial title screen, the projector flashes, image goes to the NO SIGNAL screen, sometimes its 5 seconds to sync, sometimes it was as much as 45 seconds. Once I got through that, games looked great in HDR using HarperVision. Was it a HUGE difference, at this point, it is too hard to tell. I did not do a back to back comparison yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon Prime and UHD Blu Rays through the Xbox One X with the Linker are NOT passing through the signal like others mentioned.Since I have the Linker set to EDID 8 and forced 8 Bit, It is forcing it to 4K/60k 8 Bit 4:2:0 still. With the Linker removed, Amazon Prime and UHDs play @ 4K/24 12 Bit 4:2:2.
> 
> 
> 
> The Linker also shows what is being input, so I can see exactly what the Xbox is trying to do. The strange thing is, the Xbox is outputting 4K/60 12 Bit BT2020(non accepted signal with the Epson) with Amazon Prime UHD movies, but the Epson actually switches on its own with no Linker in the loop to 4K/24 12 Bit BT2020.
> 
> 
> 
> UHD Blu Ray from the Xbox is outputting 4K/24 12 bit, but because the Linker is in the loop, the linker outputs it @ 4K/60 8 bit 4:2:0 BT2020
> 
> 
> 
> So long story short, with the Linker running EDID 8 forcing 8 bit on the Xbox, that is exactly what it outputs regardless of the signal it is getting. I do not know if there is a way around this. I tried a few things with no luck. If I force 8 bit, thats what it does no matter what.
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up not having as much time as I wanted tonight since my girlfriend had some car trouble and I was running around dealing with that for 3 hours.




Interesting, and was my fear “again, as other users reported”...is it a matter of flipping a setting when wanting to use 4/24?

It’d be hardly worth having to unplug the linker every time you want to watch a movie and doesn’t make sense to only use it on the Xbox.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## siuengr

robc1976 said:


> Wondering if anyone here has used the HDTV xbox calibration app for adjusting brightness and contrast?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


I used the Xbox app. I thought it produced great results.


----------



## viperlogic

Dominic Chan said:


> At what level did you see clipping? There shouldn't be any clipping within the signal range if the projector super white is on, and the Nvidia Shield is outputing Limited Range. The Epson Super White is essentially Full Range on the top end, and Limited Range at the bottom end (i.e., 16-234).


Black is clipped from 16 downwards when superwhite is on or if superwhite is off and hdmi video range is set to normal. Black is not clipped if superwhite is off and video range is expanded.


----------



## Dominic Chan

viperlogic said:


> Black is clipped from 16 downwards when superwhite is on or if superwhite is off and hdmi video range is set to normal. Black is not clipped if superwhite is off and video range is expanded.


This is “legal” clipping, not the kind of clipping that should be avoided during calibration.


----------



## mase1981

Juiced46 said:


> Well so far, not the greatest news with my trial with the Linker and Xbox One X
> 
> I hooked it up tonight. Good news is. Using EDID 8 and forcing 8 Bit I get ALL green check marks in the video details screen. Games are running Native 4K and I am getting HDR.
> 
> Bad news is, intermittent long sync times. I have the Linker hooked between my AVR and Epson. When I load an Xbox game, I get to the initial title screen, the projector flashes, image goes to the NO SIGNAL screen, sometimes its 5 seconds to sync, sometimes it was as much as 45 seconds. Once I got through that, games looked great in HDR using HarperVision. Was it a HUGE difference, at this point, it is too hard to tell. I did not do a back to back comparison yet.
> 
> Amazon Prime and UHD Blu Rays through the Xbox One X with the Linker are NOT passing through the signal like others mentioned.Since I have the Linker set to EDID 8 and forced 8 Bit, It is forcing it to 4K/60k 8 Bit 4:2:0 still. With the Linker removed, Amazon Prime and UHDs play @ 4K/24 12 Bit 4:2:2.
> 
> The Linker also shows what is being input, so I can see exactly what the Xbox is trying to do. The strange thing is, the Xbox is outputting 4K/60 12 Bit BT2020(non accepted signal with the Epson) with Amazon Prime UHD movies, but the Epson actually switches on its own with no Linker in the loop to 4K/24 12 Bit BT2020.
> 
> UHD Blu Ray from the Xbox is outputting 4K/24 12 bit, but because the Linker is in the loop, the linker outputs it @ 4K/60 8 bit 4:2:0 BT2020
> 
> So long story short, with the Linker running EDID 8 forcing 8 bit on the Xbox, that is exactly what it outputs regardless of the signal it is getting. I do not know if there is a way around this. I tried a few things with no luck. If I force 8 bit, thats what it does no matter what.
> 
> I ended up not having as much time as I wanted tonight since my girlfriend had some car trouble and I was running around dealing with that for 3 hours.


That's not good news.... 
i was hoping to set the linker and forget about it.... 
now i am worried i spent 200$ for nothing....


----------



## muad'dib

Juiced46 said:


> Well so far, not the greatest news with my trial with the Linker and Xbox One X
> 
> I hooked it up tonight. Good news is. Using EDID 8 and forcing 8 Bit I get ALL green check marks in the video details screen. Games are running Native 4K and I am getting HDR.
> 
> Bad news is, intermittent long sync times. I have the Linker hooked between my AVR and Epson. When I load an Xbox game, I get to the initial title screen, the projector flashes, image goes to the NO SIGNAL screen, sometimes its 5 seconds to sync, sometimes it was as much as 45 seconds. Once I got through that, games looked great in HDR using HarperVision. Was it a HUGE difference, at this point, it is too hard to tell. I did not do a back to back comparison yet.
> 
> Amazon Prime and UHD Blu Rays through the Xbox One X with the Linker are NOT passing through the signal like others mentioned.Since I have the Linker set to EDID 8 and forced 8 Bit, It is forcing it to 4K/60k 8 Bit 4:2:0 still. With the Linker removed, Amazon Prime and UHDs play @ 4K/24 12 Bit 4:2:2.
> 
> The Linker also shows what is being input, so I can see exactly what the Xbox is trying to do. The strange thing is, the Xbox is outputting 4K/60 12 Bit BT2020(non accepted signal with the Epson) with Amazon Prime UHD movies, but the Epson actually switches on its own with no Linker in the loop to 4K/24 12 Bit BT2020.
> 
> UHD Blu Ray from the Xbox is outputting 4K/24 12 bit, but because the Linker is in the loop, the linker outputs it @ 4K/60 8 bit 4:2:0 BT2020
> 
> So long story short, with the Linker running EDID 8 forcing 8 bit on the Xbox, that is exactly what it outputs regardless of the signal it is getting. I do not know if there is a way around this. I tried a few things with no luck. If I force 8 bit, thats what it does no matter what.
> 
> I ended up not having as much time as I wanted tonight since my girlfriend had some car trouble and I was running around dealing with that for 3 hours.


Use this firmware for linker..

May help a lot for you.. I did with my system..

Yamaha cxa5100, xbox one x and Epson 5040.


http://www.hdfurylinker.com/download/

Get the 0.19a firmware not newest one.. 



Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## muad'dib

Juiced46 said:


> Well so far, not the greatest news with my trial with the Linker and Xbox One X
> 
> I hooked it up tonight. Good news is. Using EDID 8 and forcing 8 Bit I get ALL green check marks in the video details screen. Games are running Native 4K and I am getting HDR.
> 
> Bad news is, intermittent long sync times. I have the Linker hooked between my AVR and Epson. When I load an Xbox game, I get to the initial title screen, the projector flashes, image goes to the NO SIGNAL screen, sometimes its 5 seconds to sync, sometimes it was as much as 45 seconds. Once I got through that, games looked great in HDR using HarperVision. Was it a HUGE difference, at this point, it is too hard to tell. I did not do a back to back comparison yet.
> 
> Amazon Prime and UHD Blu Rays through the Xbox One X with the Linker are NOT passing through the signal like others mentioned.Since I have the Linker set to EDID 8 and forced 8 Bit, It is forcing it to 4K/60k 8 Bit 4:2:0 still. With the Linker removed, Amazon Prime and UHDs play @ 4K/24 12 Bit 4:2:2.
> 
> The Linker also shows what is being input, so I can see exactly what the Xbox is trying to do. The strange thing is, the Xbox is outputting 4K/60 12 Bit BT2020(non accepted signal with the Epson) with Amazon Prime UHD movies, but the Epson actually switches on its own with no Linker in the loop to 4K/24 12 Bit BT2020.
> 
> UHD Blu Ray from the Xbox is outputting 4K/24 12 bit, but because the Linker is in the loop, the linker outputs it @ 4K/60 8 bit 4:2:0 BT2020
> 
> So long story short, with the Linker running EDID 8 forcing 8 bit on the Xbox, that is exactly what it outputs regardless of the signal it is getting. I do not know if there is a way around this. I tried a few things with no luck. If I force 8 bit, thats what it does no matter what.
> 
> I ended up not having as much time as I wanted tonight since my girlfriend had some car trouble and I was running around dealing with that for 3 hours.


For the output issue..

Your not choosing correct settings...

And therefore forcing linker to output one resolution etc...



I like the bluetooth app better, easier...

I get 4k/24 hdr with uhd discs, 4k/60 hdr with games etc... With no adjustment to linker....  

Here is screen shots from computer Gui and also Bluetooth Gui..


----------



## mase1981

muad'dib said:


> Juiced46 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well so far, not the greatest news with my trial with the Linker and Xbox One X
> 
> I hooked it up tonight. Good news is. Using EDID 8 and forcing 8 Bit I get ALL green check marks in the video details screen. Games are running Native 4K and I am getting HDR.
> 
> Bad news is, intermittent long sync times. I have the Linker hooked between my AVR and Epson. When I load an Xbox game, I get to the initial title screen, the projector flashes, image goes to the NO SIGNAL screen, sometimes its 5 seconds to sync, sometimes it was as much as 45 seconds. Once I got through that, games looked great in HDR using HarperVision. Was it a HUGE difference, at this point, it is too hard to tell. I did not do a back to back comparison yet.
> 
> Amazon Prime and UHD Blu Rays through the Xbox One X with the Linker are NOT passing through the signal like others mentioned.Since I have the Linker set to EDID 8 and forced 8 Bit, It is forcing it to 4K/60k 8 Bit 4:2:0 still. With the Linker removed, Amazon Prime and UHDs play @ 4K/24 12 Bit 4:2:2.
> 
> The Linker also shows what is being input, so I can see exactly what the Xbox is trying to do. The strange thing is, the Xbox is outputting 4K/60 12 Bit BT2020(non accepted signal with the Epson) with Amazon Prime UHD movies, but the Epson actually switches on its own with no Linker in the loop to 4K/24 12 Bit BT2020.
> 
> UHD Blu Ray from the Xbox is outputting 4K/24 12 bit, but because the Linker is in the loop, the linker outputs it @ 4K/60 8 bit 4:2:0 BT2020
> 
> So long story short, with the Linker running EDID 8 forcing 8 bit on the Xbox, that is exactly what it outputs regardless of the signal it is getting. I do not know if there is a way around this. I tried a few things with no luck. If I force 8 bit, thats what it does no matter what.
> 
> I ended up not having as much time as I wanted tonight since my girlfriend had some car trouble and I was running around dealing with that for 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> For the output issue..
> 
> Your not choosing correct settings...
> 
> And therefore forcing linker to output one resolution etc...
> 
> 
> 
> I like the bluetooth app better, easier...
> 
> I get 4k/24 hdr with uhd discs, 4k/60 hdr with games etc... With no adjustment to linker....
> 
> Here is screen shots from computer Gui and also Bluetooth Gui..
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for adding pc screen shots! Help so much. It looks like I should also invest in the bt adapter to make it easier for the future.... Getting prepared for when I get the linker. A bit upset with their slow delivery. Paid 25$ extra for 2 days delivery and yet to receive any tracking or new info and its been a few days now....


----------



## Juiced46

muad'dib said:


> Juiced46 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well so far, not the greatest news with my trial with the Linker and Xbox One X
> 
> I hooked it up tonight. Good news is. Using EDID 8 and forcing 8 Bit I get ALL green check marks in the video details screen. Games are running Native 4K and I am getting HDR.
> 
> Bad news is, intermittent long sync times. I have the Linker hooked between my AVR and Epson. When I load an Xbox game, I get to the initial title screen, the projector flashes, image goes to the NO SIGNAL screen, sometimes its 5 seconds to sync, sometimes it was as much as 45 seconds. Once I got through that, games looked great in HDR using HarperVision. Was it a HUGE difference, at this point, it is too hard to tell. I did not do a back to back comparison yet.
> 
> Amazon Prime and UHD Blu Rays through the Xbox One X with the Linker are NOT passing through the signal like others mentioned.Since I have the Linker set to EDID 8 and forced 8 Bit, It is forcing it to 4K/60k 8 Bit 4:2:0 still. With the Linker removed, Amazon Prime and UHDs play @ 4K/24 12 Bit 4:2:2.
> 
> The Linker also shows what is being input, so I can see exactly what the Xbox is trying to do. The strange thing is, the Xbox is outputting 4K/60 12 Bit BT2020(non accepted signal with the Epson) with Amazon Prime UHD movies, but the Epson actually switches on its own with no Linker in the loop to 4K/24 12 Bit BT2020.
> 
> UHD Blu Ray from the Xbox is outputting 4K/24 12 bit, but because the Linker is in the loop, the linker outputs it @ 4K/60 8 bit 4:2:0 BT2020
> 
> So long story short, with the Linker running EDID 8 forcing 8 bit on the Xbox, that is exactly what it outputs regardless of the signal it is getting. I do not know if there is a way around this. I tried a few things with no luck. If I force 8 bit, thats what it does no matter what.
> 
> I ended up not having as much time as I wanted tonight since my girlfriend had some car trouble and I was running around dealing with that for 3 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> For the output issue..
> 
> Your not choosing correct settings...
> 
> And therefore forcing linker to output one resolution etc...
> 
> 
> 
> I like the bluetooth app better, easier...
> 
> I get 4k/24 hdr with uhd discs, 4k/60 hdr with games etc... With no adjustment to linker....
> 
> Here is screen shots from computer Gui and also Bluetooth Gui..
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply and pics. I am not giving up hope yet. Like I said, I didnt have much time last night. I am getting 4K/24 with UHDs but 8 bit, it should be 12bit. Thats what I get with no Linker. Can you verify you are getting 12 bit? Thanks. Games are working fine with 4K60 HDR


----------



## edgecrush

Somewhat exciting news, which may turn out to be a bummer....It looks like Vudu now has HDR10 support. This is great news for those who were looking forward to streaming HDR along with Dolby Atmos sound (since iTunes currently does not support Atmos, but does support HDR10). Here's the issue....Next to a multitude of titles, they now list HDR, where it used to list Dolby Vision. The issue is, the HDR is greyed out, on my screen, viewing with my Epson 6040. I am accessing Vudu through a Roku Premiere+ box, which does support HDR at 30Hz. I confirm it, it recognizes it, and it displays it.

Can anyone here get Vudu to playback HDR content on their projector? If so, please let me know how you accomplished it! I'm starting to think it's going to be like Netflix, and it's only going to allow HDR10 viewing with 60Hz, not 30Hz.

If anyone has success, please let me know! Thanks!


----------



## bullpuss

WynsWrld98 said:


> If you want to play 4K UHD Bluray discs with the Sony you don't need a Linker it will play 4K HDR on the Epson due to the UHD disc being 24 Hz. The issue comes to streaming and games with the Epson and trying to get HDR.


*Thank you so much for the information, because i plan to pick up the Sony 4k player this black Friday. I had hoped for the Oppo, but i cant afford it with me planning to get elite cinema-grey 3D ALR screen.*


----------



## Snoogleheimer

bullpuss said:


> *Thank you so much for the information, because i plan to pick up the Sony 4k player this black Friday. I had hoped for the Oppo, but i cant afford it with me planning to get elite cinema-grey 3D ALR screen.*


I have the Sony and it displays a GREAT image on MY PJ.


----------



## Whopper80

Hi,

I used the settings from *post #11579* on the linker (XBOXoneX --> Linker --> Denon AW4200 --> Epson UBE) and while HDR and 4k *seems* to work (looking at the info page from the Epson, I loose the Dolby Atmos Bitstream option which works without the linker. The Xbox One X tells me my device does not support it. "your receiver doesnt support Dolby Atmos for home theater".

Any idea?

I also think the HDR does not make the games look much better, in fact I think I will disable the HDR flag in the XBOX options since the colors don't pop anymore. For example in Assasins Creed Origins, the bright Sun doesn't seem so hot and sunny anymore all of a sudden.


----------



## robc1976

siuengr said:


> I used the Xbox app. I thought it produced great results.


I compared it to my other test patterns, and its really close. Few clicks off on brightness. Contrast is pretty close.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

muad'dib said:


> For the output issue..
> 
> Your not choosing correct settings...
> 
> And therefore forcing linker to output one resolution etc...
> 
> 
> 
> I like the bluetooth app better, easier...
> 
> I get 4k/24 hdr with uhd discs, 4k/60 hdr with games etc... With no adjustment to linker....


So I tried your suggestions tonight and did a bit of testing. The .19 Firmware reduced the sync time by a TON, thank you for that tip. 

I input your exact settings. Xbox One X gaming is working well with 4K/60 HDR. UHD Blu Rays are now doing 4K/24 12 bit and not 8 bit like I was getting before. 

The only issue I am having with through the Xbox One X is Amazon Prime. With no Linker, I get 4K/24 12 bit. With the Linker I get 4K/60 8 bit. The Linker shows that the Xbox is actually outputting 4K/60, which I thought all this time that app output @ 4K/24. I am not sure there is anyway around this issue so I can get 4K/24 12 bit like I do without the Linker.


----------



## Juiced46

I had a little more time tonight so I figured I would do a comparison on the Xbox One X with the Linker @ 4K/60 HDR vs. with no Linker @ 4K/60 SDR (Xbox is upscaling 1080P)

For the HDR stuff I used HarperVisions exact settings with brightness and contrast tweaked to my room. 

the SDR comparison pictures are my calibrated settings using the Xbox internal TV calibration setting. 

The difference is pretty clear that HDR is the winner here.

First picture is Madden 18 SDR










Madden HDR, notice how much more detail is in the field turf. The colors are more accurate. 










Next is COD WWII in SDR









COD WWII in HDR. Notice the color of the sky compared to the SDR image and the better detail in the gun. 










Last is Project Cars 2 in SDR. 










Project Cars 2 in HDR. Notice the more detail on the dash. You can clearly see the Carbon Fiber steering wheel where it is very dark in the SDR pic. The detail through the upper windshield tint in the HDR image is just much better.


----------



## robc1976

Anyone know if there is newer firmware than 109? 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> I had a little more time tonight so I figured I would do a comparison on the Xbox One X with the Linker @ 4K/60 HDR vs. with no Linker @ 4K/60 SDR (Xbox is upscaling 1080P)
> 
> For the HDR stuff I used HarperVisions exact settings with brightness and contrast tweaked to my room.
> 
> the SDR comparison pictures are my calibrated settings using the Xbox internal TV calibration setting.
> 
> The difference is pretty clear that HDR is the winner here.
> 
> First picture is Madden 18 SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madden HDR, notice how much more detail is in the field turf. The colors are more accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is COD WWII in SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> COD WWII in HDR. Notice the color of the sky compared to the SDR image and the better detail in the gun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last is Project Cars 2 in SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Project Cars 2 in HDR. Notice the more detail on the dash. You can clearly see the Carbon Fiber steering wheel where it is very dark in the SDR pic. The detail through the upper windshield tint in the HDR image is just much better.


Wow, look at the driving glove compare that is a huge improvement. 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## muad'dib

Juiced46 said:


> So I tried your suggestions tonight and did a bit of testing. The .19 Firmware reduced the sync time by a TON, thank you for that tip.
> 
> I input your exact settings. Xbox One X gaming is working well with 4K/60 HDR. UHD Blu Rays are now doing 4K/24 12 bit and not 8 bit like I was getting before.
> 
> The only issue I am having with through the Xbox One X is Amazon Prime. With no Linker, I get 4K/24 12 bit. With the Linker I get 4K/60 8 bit. The Linker shows that the Xbox is actually outputting 4K/60, which I thought all this time that app output @ 4K/24. I am not sure there is anyway around this issue so I can get 4K/24 12 bit like I do without the Linker.


Sweet.. 
Glad to see settings and firmware helped...

Sorry, can't help about Amazon streaming... Don't have...  

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## Nutdotnet

Wow...that Project Cars is a pretty amazing example in difference.

On the Amazon app...is there an option in the app itself to change resolutions? Do you have another device with Amazon to test out?

Glad to hear you got the other pieces figured out!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

Juiced46 said:


> I had a little more time tonight so I figured I would do a comparison on the Xbox One X with the Linker @ 4K/60 HDR vs. with no Linker @ 4K/60 SDR (Xbox is upscaling 1080P)
> 
> For the HDR stuff I used HarperVisions exact settings with brightness and contrast tweaked to my room.
> 
> the SDR comparison pictures are my calibrated settings using the Xbox internal TV calibration setting.
> 
> The difference is pretty clear that HDR is the winner here.
> 
> First picture is Madden 18 SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madden HDR, notice how much more detail is in the field turf. The colors are more accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is COD WWII in SDR


Thanks Juiced, this is great news, I was starting to feel skepticism about my purchase...Where did you end up placing the linker in the chain?

On a separate note, I'm hoping this is not a future prediction of the Redskins vs Giants upcoming game 

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Hi everyone, seems like HarperVision is the most popular one for P3 modes. Is there a recommended one for Bright Cinema mode?


----------



## mase1981

This might be a silly question, but everyone is talking about hte harpervision settings, i did see under his signature that the settings are for HDR on SDR.... 
Why do we want to use said settings if we're pushing HDR content? or do everyone here set 2 saved settings and switch between when showing content in HDR vs SDR? 
i am a bit confused, or is there a different location to find his settings that are more like "set it and forget it" for both options?


----------



## pjb16

So I am in a bit of a quandary...

I have an Epson 5030 currently and use a 92" screen (I sit maybe 10' away, probably a little less), it's the display device that gets used most in my house. I just got a Xbox One X, and I can see improvement in games, albeit not as much as possible since I don't have a 4k (or eshift 4k display). So I am itching to take advantage of what it can offer as well as the ability to play back 4k Blu-Rays (and other content).

Currently the Epson 5040 can be had for like $2,500, and my wife said she was ok with me upgrading (I would have to get a new AV receiver as well, but that is something that is likely needed regardless of projector to start taking advantage of Dolby Atmos).

What I am unsure of is how big a difference I will see between the 5030 and the 5040 in performance and image. It seems like professional reviews say the 5040 is quite the step up from predecessors, but I guess I am looking for feedback from regular people to help reinforce that opinion. 

It isn't like I need to upgrade as I know more stuff is always around the corner (and older tech prices will drop), but I just want to feel like it will be money well spent (which I definitely feel that way about my 5030 and I paid about the same price). 

Can anyone please share their thoughts or if they upgraded from the 5030?


----------



## Jcniper

Juiced46 said:


> I had a little more time tonight so I figured I would do a comparison on the Xbox One X with the Linker @ 4K/60 HDR vs. with no Linker @ 4K/60 SDR (Xbox is upscaling 1080P)
> 
> For the HDR stuff I used HarperVisions exact settings with brightness and contrast tweaked to my room.
> 
> the SDR comparison pictures are my calibrated settings using the Xbox internal TV calibration setting.
> 
> The difference is pretty clear that HDR is the winner here.
> 
> First picture is Madden 18 SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madden HDR, notice how much more detail is in the field turf. The colors are more accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is COD WWII in SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> COD WWII in HDR. Notice the color of the sky compared to the SDR image and the better detail in the gun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last is Project Cars 2 in SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Project Cars 2 in HDR. Notice the more detail on the dash. You can clearly see the Carbon Fiber steering wheel where it is very dark in the SDR pic. The detail through the upper windshield tint in the HDR image is just much better.


Where did you get the Linker? What is the name of the device? I'm looking to purchase one.


----------



## Jcniper

Juiced46 said:


> I had a little more time tonight so I figured I would do a comparison on the Xbox One X with the Linker @ 4K/60 HDR vs. with no Linker @ 4K/60 SDR (Xbox is upscaling 1080P)
> 
> For the HDR stuff I used HarperVisions exact settings with brightness and contrast tweaked to my room.
> 
> the SDR comparison pictures are my calibrated settings using the Xbox internal TV calibration setting.
> 
> The difference is pretty clear that HDR is the winner here.
> 
> First picture is Madden 18 SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madden HDR, notice how much more detail is in the field turf. The colors are more accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is COD WWII in SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> COD WWII in HDR. Notice the color of the sky compared to the SDR image and the better detail in the gun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last is Project Cars 2 in SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Project Cars 2 in HDR. Notice the more detail on the dash. You can clearly see the Carbon Fiber steering wheel where it is very dark in the SDR pic. The detail through the upper windshield tint in the HDR image is just much better.


Does the linker work for PS4 Pro? Do you get 4k HDR? Also, can you please let me know the name of the linker?


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> I had a little more time tonight so I figured I would do a comparison on the Xbox One X with the Linker @ 4K/60 HDR vs. with no Linker @ 4K/60 SDR (Xbox is upscaling 1080P)
> 
> For the HDR stuff I used HarperVisions exact settings with brightness and contrast tweaked to my room.
> 
> the SDR comparison pictures are my calibrated settings using the Xbox internal TV calibration setting.
> 
> The difference is pretty clear that HDR is the winner here.
> 
> First picture is Madden 18 SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madden HDR, notice how much more detail is in the field turf. The colors are more accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next is COD WWII in SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> COD WWII in HDR. Notice the color of the sky compared to the SDR image and the better detail in the gun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last is Project Cars 2 in SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Project Cars 2 in HDR. Notice the more detail on the dash. You can clearly see the Carbon Fiber steering wheel where it is very dark in the SDR pic. The detail through the upper windshield tint in the HDR image is just much better.


Thx Juiced for doing some comparisons for us. After some of the recent comments I was wondering if it was gonna be worth it to get the linker. 

Will this allow games that are pushing 60fps at 4k HDR to be shown on the Epson?

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## zgraen3721

ayrton said:


> If you are talking about a UBe wireless, which has a better bandwidth than the UB (Wired). Mine provides solid performance at 4K. When you get into 4K HDR you can review Dave Harper and Oledurt's settings..


Good luck finding those settings in this monster thread. Can't get dave to answer any of my requests for the settings either 

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Jcniper said:


> Where did you get the Linker? What is the name of the device? I'm looking to purchase one.


I would love to know this as well

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Dumb question but if put linker between the 5040 and the AVR will that mess with any other signals? Like Blu ray or anything.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

mase1981 said:


> This might be a silly question, but everyone is talking about hte harpervision settings, i did see under his signature that the settings are for HDR on SDR....
> Why do we want to use said settings if we're pushing HDR content? or do everyone here set 2 saved settings and switch between when showing content in HDR vs SDR?
> i am a bit confused, or is there a different location to find his settings that are more like "set it and forget it" for both options?


HV in a nutshell has your projector recieving HDR signal but then you manually set your projector to SDR and use digital cinnema with the P3 filter. This projector doesn't do HDR very well so this is the best route.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

pjb16 said:


> So I am in a bit of a quandary...
> 
> I have an Epson 5030 currently and use a 92" screen (I sit maybe 10' away, probably a little less), it's the display device that gets used most in my house. I just got a Xbox One X, and I can see improvement in games, albeit not as much as possible since I don't have a 4k (or eshift 4k display). So I am itching to take advantage of what it can offer as well as the ability to play back 4k Blu-Rays (and other content).
> 
> Currently the Epson 5040 can be had for like $2,500, and my wife said she was ok with me upgrading (I would have to get a new AV receiver as well, but that is something that is likely needed regardless of projector to start taking advantage of Dolby Atmos).
> 
> What I am unsure of is how big a difference I will see between the 5030 and the 5040 in performance and image. It seems like professional reviews say the 5040 is quite the step up from predecessors, but I guess I am looking for feedback from regular people to help reinforce that opinion.
> 
> It isn't like I need to upgrade as I know more stuff is always around the corner (and older tech prices will drop), but I just want to feel like it will be money well spent (which I definitely feel that way about my 5030 and I paid about the same price).
> 
> Can anyone please share their thoughts or if they upgraded from the 5030?


Do you have a way to see the 5040 in action?

I think you should do so if it's possible at any of the dealers near you.


----------



## Lilphish

This thread has been very helpful. I have the Epson 5040UB, Onkyo TX-NR646, and just purchased an Xbox One X. I was going crazy trying to figure out why I was having 4K / HDR issues. So now I bought the Linker from Monoprice and should have it in a few days. I think I have all the information down on the settings to use and how to hook it up, but I do have a stupid question. What settings do I use on the Xbox One X itself? I thought I had read in here to set it at 1080p so it forces it to 4k native, but that didn't sound right. Also, will there be anything special I need to set on my PS4 Pro? Thank you everyone for the help and informative thread!


----------



## ayrton

zgraen3721 said:


> Good luck finding those settings in this monster thread. Can't get dave to answer any of my requests for the settings either
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


Here's a link to Dave Harper's Harpervision: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017

HTGuy posted a list of all good settings. If I can find it, will post link..


----------



## Juiced46

muad'dib said:


> Sweet..
> Glad to see settings and firmware helped...
> 
> Sorry, can't help about Amazon streaming... Don't have...
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


No problem, I appreciate your help. I may live with that small issue



Nutdotnet said:


> Wow...that Project Cars is a pretty amazing example in difference.
> 
> On the Amazon app...is there an option in the app itself to change resolutions? Do you have another device with Amazon to test out?
> 
> Glad to hear you got the other pieces figured out!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


There is no option in the Xbox Amazon app to change settings unfortunately. I am going to try it on my PS4 Pro but I have a feeling it will be the same result. 



Azekecse said:


> Thanks Juiced, this is great news, I was starting to feel skepticism about my purchase...Where did you end up placing the linker in the chain?
> 
> On a separate note, I'm hoping this is not a future prediction of the Redskins vs Giants upcoming game
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


The linker is between my AVR and Epson



mase1981 said:


> This might be a silly question, but everyone is talking about hte harpervision settings, i did see under his signature that the settings are for HDR on SDR....
> Why do we want to use said settings if we're pushing HDR content? or do everyone here set 2 saved settings and switch between when showing content in HDR vs SDR?
> i am a bit confused, or is there a different location to find his settings that are more like "set it and forget it" for both options?


Basically, when you receive an HDR signal, you just force SDR Dynamic range. Dave can explain it better. 



Jcniper said:


> Where did you get the Linker? What is the name of the device? I'm looking to purchase one.


You can get it here https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/



Jcniper said:


> Does the linker work for PS4 Pro? Do you get 4k HDR? Also, can you please let me know the name of the linker?


Yes, Yes. Link is above. 



SALadder22FF said:


> Thx Juiced for doing some comparisons for us. After some of the recent comments I was wondering if it was gonna be worth it to get the linker.
> 
> Will this allow games that are pushing 60fps at 4k HDR to be shown on the Epson?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


You will get 60fps regardless if you have a Linker or not in SDR or HDR. The issue is getting 4K/60 AND HDR, that is when you need a Linker. You can get 4K/60 SDR no problem without it. 



zgraen3721 said:


> Good luck finding those settings in this monster thread. Can't get dave to answer any of my requests for the settings either
> 
> Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


Quote Dave and he will get a notification. If you quote someone its better since we dont always check every reply. 



robc1976 said:


> I would love to know this as well
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/


----------



## zgraen3721

ayrton said:


> Here's a link to Dave Harper's Harpervision: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017
> 
> HTGuy posted a list of all good settings. If I can find it, will post link..


Thank you SOOOO much my friend! Really been digging for these!

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk


----------



## Nutdotnet

The settings PDF was actually reposted just a couple of pages back. You should be able to find it without too much difficulty. I’d repost if I wasn’t on my phone.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nutdotnet

robc1976 said:


> Dumb question but if put linker between the 5040 and the AVR will that mess with any other signals? Like Blu ray or anything.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk




All these questions have literally been answered in the past 5-ish pages (it’s been a hot topic since the Xbox One X has been released).

Spend 20-30 minutes to review, you’ll be glad you did.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NetViper

It’s hard to tell a lot from the pics, but it sounds like the linker is the way to go. Group buy?


----------



## g6t9ed

Hello guys, 

First off, obligatory thank you's to those who have both contributed and who have given up their time to the cause of the community.

I've been keeping up to date with this thread and purchased my 5040UBe back in May. Apologies for being a lurker but haven't been able to post anything that I felt would contribute or otherwise say anything that hasn't already been said. 

Now, on to what I want to add. This is in reference to those who have been having issues with 3D. To give you my reference point my setup is as follows:

Epson 5040UBe
127" 1.1 gain white screen
Philips BDP7501 hdmi port 1
Samsung SSG-5150GB

Today, I decided to install the new 110 firmware as I was on the 109/104 that was installed this past summer for HDR issues. I had horrendous ghosting/crosstalk issues that I thought I would have to call Epson for replacement. I also tested out the Auto Iris theory that was presented earlier to little improvement. There was some difference but not enough to say "wow". Also, I did not want my glasses on the low setting as this would hide a lot of dark details the glasses already dimmed. 

Alas, this firmware update really did improve things. I don't know if I was just on a bad firmware install or if there actually was an improvement coded in this new firmware. So, I tell you guys, give this firmware update a shot. You've got nothing to lose.

I don't know how delicate these firmwares are but I suggest moving in incremental firmware versions rather than skipping to avoid any defects unless Epson had posted otherwise. 
I hope I've, at least, helped one of you give reason to start enjoying 3D again on this projector and join those who have no regrets with this purchase. 

Also, the tested movies I used were Gravity, Rogue One, and Jurassic World. All previously had bad ghosting. Thank you guys for your time.


----------



## Deftec

Hi - I am Newbie, I recently bought Epson 5040ub (still testing) i connected my avr to projector via HDMI which is 40 feet long, I see almost 10 to 15 sec lag to get the video projected from source, is that expected for 40 feet lenght or you think there is an issue? Is the hdmi too long? Can this be fixed? I am kind of bit confused. 

**When I connected directly my blu-ray to projector with a shorter HDMI there was no much delay of video


----------



## pjb16

Uppsalaing said:


> Do you have a way to see the 5040 in action?
> 
> I think you should do so if it's possible at any of the dealers near you.


Not really familiar with any dealers who would have it.

I do have like 45 day returns at Best Buy, so I may just get it and try it for a few weeks.


----------



## jwhn

Deftec said:


> Hi - I am Newbie, I recently bought Epson 5040ub (still testing) i connected my avr to projector via HDMI which is 40 feet long, I see almost 10 to 15 sec lag to get the video projected from source, is that expected for 40 feet lenght or you think there is an issue? Is the hdmi too long? Can this be fixed? I am kind of bit confused.
> 
> **When I connected directly my blu-ray to projector with a shorter HDMI there was no much delay of video


I use this 60' HDMI cable that has a signal booster. It works great. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSL9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## ac388

*Long HDMI cable*

Go to below link n get a cable they recommend for that kind of long length. Not just any HDMI cable can do the job properly on 40ft. long.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-h...operly-reliably-support-18gbps-hdmi-2-0b.html






Deftec said:


> Hi - I am Newbie, I recently bought Epson 5040ub (still testing) i connected my avr to projector via HDMI which is 40 feet long, I see almost 10 to 15 sec lag to get the video projected from source, is that expected for 40 feet lenght or you think there is an issue? Is the hdmi too long? Can this be fixed? I am kind of bit confused.
> 
> **When I connected directly my blu-ray to projector with a shorter HDMI there was no much delay of video


----------



## AhvaDuck

Hello everyone this is my first post here first off thanks for all the great info you guys are great right now sadly I have a few problems that I can not figure out after setting up the linker the first is that my Xbox One X will not allow me to set my settings to Dolby Atmos and the second is I can't get my reciver to have it's overlay and display Xbox at the same time the only real reason I care is I want to be able to see what volume I have my Xbox set to also one last question is it normal for linker to take a long time to go back to home on Xbox when switching from a 4k game and help would be greatly appreciated thank you all.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Nutdotnet said:


> The settings PDF was actually reposted just a couple of pages back. You should be able to find it without too much difficulty. I’d repost if I wasn’t on my phone.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




got it! thanks a lot.


----------



## viperlogic

g6t9ed said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> First off, obligatory thank you's to those who have both contributed and who have given up their time to the cause of the community.
> 
> I've been keeping up to date with this thread and purchased my 5040UBe back in May. Apologies for being a lurker but haven't been able to post anything that I felt would contribute or otherwise say anything that hasn't already been said.
> 
> Now, on to what I want to add. This is in reference to those who have been having issues with 3D. To give you my reference point my setup is as follows:
> 
> Epson 5040UBe
> 127" 1.1 gain white screen
> Philips BDP7501 hdmi port 1
> Samsung SSG-5150GB
> 
> Today, I decided to install the new 110 firmware as I was on the 109/104 that was installed this past summer for HDR issues. I had horrendous ghosting/crosstalk issues that I thought I would have to call Epson for replacement. I also tested out the Auto Iris theory that was presented earlier to little improvement. There was some difference but not enough to say "wow". Also, I did not want my glasses on the low setting as this would hide a lot of dark details the glasses already dimmed.
> 
> Alas, this firmware update really did improve things. I don't know if I was just on a bad firmware install or if there actually was an improvement coded in this new firmware. So, I tell you guys, give this firmware update a shot. You've got nothing to lose.
> 
> I don't know how delicate these firmwares are but I suggest moving in incremental firmware versions rather than skipping to avoid any defects unless Epson had posted otherwise.
> I hope I've, at least, helped one of you give reason to start enjoying 3D again on this projector and join those who have no regrets with this purchase.
> 
> Also, the tested movies I used were Gravity, Rogue One, and Jurassic World. All previously had bad ghosting. Thank you guys for your time.


Good to hear though in the EU 109 is still the latest for 7300/9300


----------



## Jcniper

Juiced46 said:


> No problem, I appreciate your help. I may live with that small issue
> 
> 
> 
> There is no option in the Xbox Amazon app to change settings unfortunately. I am going to try it on my PS4 Pro but I have a feeling it will be the same result.
> 
> 
> 
> The linker is between my AVR and Epson
> 
> 
> 
> Basically, when you receive an HDR signal, you just force SDR Dynamic range. Dave can explain it better.
> 
> 
> 
> You can get it here https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Yes. Link is above.
> 
> 
> 
> You will get 60fps regardless if you have a Linker or not in SDR or HDR. The issue is getting 4K/60 AND HDR, that is when you need a Linker. You can get 4K/60 SDR no problem without it.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote Dave and he will get a notification. If you quote someone its better since we dont always check every reply.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/



Thank you for responding. Last question.......Do you still get dolby atmos with the linker with the xbox one x?


----------



## Azekecse

Juiced46 said:


> The linker is between my AVR and Epson


Thank you Juiced, I've updated the HD Linker to firmware 19A and configured it...I will test today.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## ana_moo_ana

so the linker can make xbox & ps4 output 4k/HDR. cant it also strip HDR from UHD while maintaining the color range? & makes Netflix output 4k/hdr?


----------



## c.kingsley

ana_moo_ana said:


> so the linker can make xbox & ps4 output 4k/HDR. cant it also strip HDR from UHD while maintaining the color range? & makes Netflix output 4k/hdr?


It can do all of these things. There are HDR metadata flags passed with the content, it can remove these or inject custom flags in its place. I haven't tested Netflix, though, perhaps someone else can comment.


----------



## c.kingsley

Jcniper said:


> Thank you for responding. Last question.......Do you still get dolby atmos with the linker with the xbox one x?


When set to one of the "... All Sound" custom EDID modes, yes.


----------



## g6t9ed

viperlogic said:


> Good to hear though in the EU 109 is still the latest for 7300/9300


I'm sorry to hear that; I did not take regional differences into consideration. Makes me wonder, besides their labeling convention, what the difference is. Especially, since their firmware versions seem to be on par with each other. A possible call to their service support to get confirmation?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

c.kingsley said:


> It can do all of these things. There are HDR metadata flags passed with the content, it can remove these or inject custom flags in its place. I haven't tested Netflix, though, perhaps someone else can comment.




seems like the way to go with this projector.


----------



## Azekecse

c.kingsley said:


> When set to one of the "... All Sound" custom EDID modes, yes.


You can test it using the Insect download for Xbox X...It looks (UHD/HDR) and sounds (Dolby Atmos) awesome with the HD Fury Linker (f/w 19A). You must ensure that you have 18Gbs Premium HDMI certified cables in the chain. I will conduct further testing with the Oppo 203, Apple 4k TV and Nvidia Shield. So far I'm impressed with the HD Linker's performance. Many thanks to Juiced and muad'dib for their config input.

I agree the Windows GUI is clunky at first, but once you get the hang of it, it's not that bad. Hope this info helps others...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## muad'dib

Azekecse said:


> You can test it using the Insect download for Xbox X...It looks (UHD/HDR) and sounds (Dolby Atmos) awesome with the HD Fury Linker (f/w 19A). You must ensure that you have 18Gbs Premium HDMI certified cables in the chain. I will conduct further testing with the Oppo 203, Apple 4k TV and Nvidia Shield. So far I'm impressed with the HD Linker's performance. Many thanks to Juiced and muad'dib for their config input.
> 
> I agree the Windows GUI is clunky at first, but once you get the hang of it, it's not that bad. Hope this info helps others...
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Np...   

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## muad'dib

g6t9ed said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> First off, obligatory thank you's to those who have both contributed and who have given up their time to the cause of the community.
> 
> I've been keeping up to date with this thread and purchased my 5040UBe back in May. Apologies for being a lurker but haven't been able to post anything that I felt would contribute or otherwise say anything that hasn't already been said.
> 
> Now, on to what I want to add. This is in reference to those who have been having issues with 3D. To give you my reference point my setup is as follows:
> 
> Epson 5040UBe
> 127" 1.1 gain white screen
> Philips BDP7501 hdmi port 1
> Samsung SSG-5150GB
> 
> Today, I decided to install the new 110 firmware as I was on the 109/104 that was installed this past summer for HDR issues. I had horrendous ghosting/crosstalk issues that I thought I would have to call Epson for replacement. I also tested out the Auto Iris theory that was presented earlier to little improvement. There was some difference but not enough to say "wow". Also, I did not want my glasses on the low setting as this would hide a lot of dark details the glasses already dimmed.
> 
> Alas, this firmware update really did improve things. I don't know if I was just on a bad firmware install or if there actually was an improvement coded in this new firmware. So, I tell you guys, give this firmware update a shot. You've got nothing to lose.
> 
> I don't know how delicate these firmwares are but I suggest moving in incremental firmware versions rather than skipping to avoid any defects unless Epson had posted otherwise.
> I hope I've, at least, helped one of you give reason to start enjoying 3D again on this projector and join those who have no regrets with this purchase.
> 
> Also, the tested movies I used were Gravity, Rogue One, and Jurassic World. All previously had bad ghosting. Thank you guys for your time.


I also noticed this with newest firmware.. Ghosting is almost totally gone...
Much much better...  

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## Buckeye Dave

Azekecse said:


> I will conduct further testing with the Oppo 203, Apple 4k TV and Nvidia Shield.


Look forward to hearing what you discover. Thank you!


----------



## inspector

Deftec said:


> Hi - I am Newbie, I recently bought Epson 5040ub (still testing) i connected my avr to projector via HDMI which is 40 feet long, I see almost 10 to 15 sec lag to get the video projected from source, is that expected for 40 feet lenght or you think there is an issue? Is the hdmi too long? Can this be fixed? I am kind of bit confused.
> 
> **When I connected directly my blu-ray to projector with a shorter HDMI there was no much delay of video


I use a 45' Monoprice Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI Cable from my 6040 (3D/4K) to my Sammy BD player (3D/4K), then regular HDMI to my older avr (3D/7.2) and getting the sound I want. It works perfect and have never had a problem.


If I ever want Atmos, then I will need a new avr.


----------



## viperlogic

g6t9ed said:


> I'm sorry to hear that; I did not take regional differences into consideration. Makes me wonder, besides their labeling convention, what the difference is. Especially, since their firmware versions seem to be on par with each other. A possible call to their service support to get confirmation?


They said 110 not available for EU, with no ETA, and not to use the US 110 due to "power differences". They wouldn't go into the details, or more so they didn't know! Appreciate the units run a different voltage between UK and US but is there something in the f/w for that, I wouldn't of though so?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

viperlogic said:


> They said 110 not available for EU, with no ETA, and not to use the US 110 due to "power differences". They wouldn't go into the details, or more so they didn't know! Appreciate the units run a different voltage between UK and US but is there something in the f/w for that, I wouldn't of though so?




For 1.09 I used the Australian website (UK update wasn’t available back then). Seems will be doing the same with 110. 

http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp

seems it was posted today!


----------



## viperlogic

ana_moo_ana said:


> For 1.09 I used the Australian website (UK update wasn’t available back then). Seems will be doing the same with 110.
> 
> http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp
> 
> seems it was posted today!


I'm more than happy for you to be our genie pig! Let us know how it goes. I'm sure it will be fine as I've heard others using 109 from US site when that first came out also


----------



## ana_moo_ana

viperlogic said:


> I'm more than happy for you to be our genie pig! Let us know how it goes. I'm sure it will be fine as I've heard others using 109 from US site when that first came out also




I was under the impression that it should work fine for US update. Anyway, Australian models have the same model number as UK, should be fine. Will update u tomorrow (hopefully).


----------



## panman40

g6t9ed said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> First off, obligatory thank you's to those who have both contributed and who have given up their time to the cause of the community.
> 
> I've been keeping up to date with this thread and purchased my 5040UBe back in May. Apologies for being a lurker but haven't been able to post anything that I felt would contribute or otherwise say anything that hasn't already been said.
> 
> Now, on to what I want to add. This is in reference to those who have been having issues with 3D. To give you my reference point my setup is as follows:
> 
> Epson 5040UBe
> 127" 1.1 gain white screen
> Philips BDP7501 hdmi port 1
> Samsung SSG-5150GB
> 
> Today, I decided to install the new 110 firmware as I was on the 109/104 that was installed this past summer for HDR issues. I had horrendous ghosting/crosstalk issues that I thought I would have to call Epson for replacement. I also tested out the Auto Iris theory that was presented earlier to little improvement. There was some difference but not enough to say "wow". Also, I did not want my glasses on the low setting as this would hide a lot of dark details the glasses already dimmed.
> 
> Alas, this firmware update really did improve things. I don't know if I was just on a bad firmware install or if there actually was an improvement coded in this new firmware. So, I tell you guys, give this firmware update a shot. You've got nothing to lose.
> 
> I don't know how delicate these firmwares are but I suggest moving in incremental firmware versions rather than skipping to avoid any defects unless Epson had posted otherwise.
> I hope I've, at least, helped one of you give reason to start enjoying 3D again on this projector and join those who have no regrets with this purchase.
> 
> Also, the tested movies I used were Gravity, Rogue One, and Jurassic World. All previously had bad ghosting. Thank you guys for your time.


Hi, do you still have the 3 options of glasses brightness with 1.10 and also Eco/med/high lamp modes ?, thanks.


----------



## g6t9ed

panman40 said:


> Hi, do you still have the 3 options of glasses brightness with 1.10 and also Eco/med/high lamp modes ?, thanks.


Correct, all options are still available.

Update after spending some time with the "improved" 3D. I have found everything is still pretty consistent moving from movie to movie but there are few images that show ghosting on very close objects - things that are meant to appear very close to the camera but are not meant to be the focal point. I still have a few other movies that I want to try and mess with some settings to verify my findings. 

Some of my top layer settings that I can remember I used are as follows, obviously YMMV:
3D Cinema
Lamp: High
Auto Iris: Off
Screen Size: 120"
Depth: 1
Glasses Brightness: Medium
Image Processing: Fine


----------



## panman40

g6t9ed said:


> Correct, all options are still available.
> 
> Update after spending some time with the "improved" 3D. I have found everything is still pretty consistent moving from movie to movie but there are few images that show ghosting on very close objects - things that are meant to appear very close to the camera but are not meant to be the focal point. I still have a few other movies that I want to try and mess with some settings to verify my findings.
> 
> Some of my top layer settings that I can remember I used are as follows, obviously YMMV:
> 3D Cinema
> Lamp: High
> Auto Iris: Off
> Screen Size: 120"
> Depth: 1
> Glasses Brightness: Medium
> Image Processing: Fine


Thanks very much for confirming that, I only have minimal ghosting on 1.09 but if it can be eliminated I'm interested in 1.10 despite it not being available in the uk.
Looking at your settings I would recommend that depth is set to default 0, if you get a chance to test further using 0 depth I would be interested .
Thanks.


----------



## Evan201

EVERYONE GO BUY R. MASCIOLA HDR10 CALIBRATION HEVC 265 DOWNLOAD. 

located here:
http://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/dvs_products.html

I just downloaded this HDR10 Hevc .265 test patterns suite last night and holy ****. I played the .mp4 files through my Nvidia Shield and it passed the HDR just fine. All I did was calibrate the Black, White, and Color clipping and my wife walked in and said, "what did you do to the projector? It looks way better." I had Revenant playing. 

The color clipping needed to be really dialed in. I ended up with about "80" on the color saturation to get the blinking bars to disappear on Red and Blue. The Green, Yellow, Cyan, and Magenta needed some pretty serious tweaking in the RCBGMY settings for brightness and saturation. 

Holy **** it looks good now. I did a calibration on my Bright Cinema and Natural modes that both have the Oledurt original high positive Gamma Curve. Also I learned that for HDR1 Epson Super White mode needs to be on to prevent clipping with all these settings like this. 

NOTE: I just noticed Oledurts final Bright Cinema mode HDR settings which I'm going to try in comparison to my new R. Masciola HDR10 basic calibration. 
I'm using a cinegrey 5d instead of his 1.1 gain white screen so I hope it looks good. Probably will continue to use the Masciola black and white clipping test patterns along with Oledurt final bright cinema settings if they look nice. I'm guessing screen color matters when it comes to color calibrations too with his vs. my own doing with the RM calibration patterns. 

Exciting times.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Verry impressed with the new call of duty ww2 with the Xbox One X and this projector. I LIKE COD again! First game in like 3 or 4 years thats any good! IMO 😂


----------



## g6t9ed

panman40 said:


> Thanks very much for confirming that, I only have minimal ghosting on 1.09 but if it can be eliminated I'm interested in 1.10 despite it not being available in the uk.
> Looking at your settings I would recommend that depth is set to default 0, if you get a chance to test further using 0 depth I would be interested .
> Thanks.


Is there a particular 3D movie you want me to check against?


----------



## Evan201

hatlesschimp said:


> Verry impressed with the new call of duty ww2 with the Xbox One X and this projector. I LIKE COD again! First game in like 3 or 4 years thats any good! IMO 😂
> 
> https://youtu.be/Yfd-zQZLp7M


Is this the new Oledurt final HDR cal?


----------



## c.kingsley

ana_moo_ana said:


> Hi everyone, seems like HarperVision is the most popular one for P3 modes. Is there a recommended one for Bright Cinema mode?


I swap between these two modes from the PDF posted elsewhere in the thread, depending on how dark/bright the disk is:

1. Oledurt by dimi123 (Digital Cinema)
2. Oledurt's New #1 (Bright Cinema)

I set both of these in discrete memory slots, 4k Dark and 4k Bright. That makes it easy for the family to understand. The settings I've saved are almost exactly as listed in the PDF with the exception that I use Image Enhancement 2 for both, medium lamp for digital cinema, and made minor tweaks to brightness/contrast for my viewing environment. I always start with option 1. If its too dark then I switch to option 2. I haven't found a movie yet that didn't look outstanding on one of these two modes. It helps if you record which mode works for which disks so you don't have to fiddle when hosting company for movies.

For bluray / rec 709 I use Natural mode, ECO lamp, Image Enhancement 2, and iris clamped to -12. You can pop in the AVS HD709 disk and get your brightness, contrast (and colors dialed if you have a blue filter). I haven't found any other adjustments necessary for bluray content. Early on some of us, including me, were making the mistake of watching bluray on Cinema mode, but this has a P3 filter engaged, so it isn't correct. Natural is almost perfect for a non-calibrated SDR experience using default settings. This is the mode the projector is in for 95% of viewing.

I tried Harpervision too but I found the colors were not to my taste. Your mileage may vary, he has quite a following of people using this mode.


----------



## Juiced46

Jcniper said:


> Thank you for responding. Last question.......Do you still get dolby atmos with the linker with the xbox one x?



Unfortunately I do not use Atmos so I am not sure. I will check the GUI and see if it shows what it is outputting. 

On a side note, now that I have been toying with the Linker and it shows the signal it is getting it shed some light on some stuff with the Epson. I am a bit more upset with Epson then I was before. 

Here is the reason:

Without the Linker and watching Amazon Prime through the Xbox. The projector was showing the signal as 4K/24 HDR 12 Bit. Great. So I assumed that was the signal Amazon sends. NOPE! Amazon is actually sending 4K/60 10bit HDR (it maybe 12 bit, I have to re-confirm. But either way its not a signal the Epson can take) but the Epson converted it to 4K/24 HDR 12 bit on its own. 

So why they heck can it not convert the Xbox gaming signal which is ALSO 4K/60 10-12 bit HDR down to the best available signal it can handle which would be 4K/60 8 bit HDR? If they did this, there would be no need for the Linker at all. It is just mind blowing to me why it cannot do this. It seems like this can be implemented into a Firmware upgrade instead of jumping through hoops using a Linker etc.


----------



## Juiced46

Lilphish said:


> This thread has been very helpful. I have the Epson 5040UB, Onkyo TX-NR646, and just purchased an Xbox One X. I was going crazy trying to figure out why I was having 4K / HDR issues. So now I bought the Linker from Monoprice and should have it in a few days. I think I have all the information down on the settings to use and how to hook it up, but I do have a stupid question. What settings do I use on the Xbox One X itself? I thought I had read in here to set it at 1080p so it forces it to 4k native, but that didn't sound right. Also, will there be anything special I need to set on my PS4 Pro? Thank you everyone for the help and informative thread!


Set the Xbox to 4K and check all the boxes. 

You can set it to 1080P if you want and if the game has a 4K update, it will automatically switch it. The reason for this is, if you are playing a 1080P native game. You want an unchanged signal. If you have it set to 4K, it will upscale the 1080P to 4K. Can you tell a difference? Not sure. I just leave it on 4K. 



pjb16 said:


> So I am in a bit of a quandary...
> 
> I have an Epson 5030 currently and use a 92" screen (I sit maybe 10' away, probably a little less), it's the display device that gets used most in my house. I just got a Xbox One X, and I can see improvement in games, albeit not as much as possible since I don't have a 4k (or eshift 4k display). So I am itching to take advantage of what it can offer as well as the ability to play back 4k Blu-Rays (and other content).
> 
> Currently the Epson 5040 can be had for like $2,500, and my wife said she was ok with me upgrading (I would have to get a new AV receiver as well, but that is something that is likely needed regardless of projector to start taking advantage of Dolby Atmos).
> 
> What I am unsure of is how big a difference I will see between the 5030 and the 5040 in performance and image. It seems like professional reviews say the 5040 is quite the step up from predecessors, but I guess I am looking for feedback from regular people to help reinforce that opinion.
> 
> It isn't like I need to upgrade as I know more stuff is always around the corner (and older tech prices will drop), but I just want to feel like it will be money well spent (which I definitely feel that way about my 5030 and I paid about the same price).
> 
> Can anyone please share their thoughts or if they upgraded from the 5030?


I upgraded from a 5025 which is identical to the 5030. I feel it is a large improvement and was worth the upgrade. The main thing is, what do you use it for? For gaming, I noticed a very big difference, and now that I have 4k and HDR working, it is even better. 

My girlfriend immediately noticed the difference and she usually has no idea about that stuff.


----------



## Deftec

ac388 said:


> Go to below link n get a cable they recommend for that kind of long length. Not just any HDMI cable can do the job properly on 40ft. long.


Thank You this report link, its very helpful, the cable i brought seems it does not pass anything above 9gbs bandwidth


----------



## Evan201

Alright Guys. So I dialed in some settings from using the R. Masciola HDR10 suite. Keep in mind I'm using a Cinegrey 5d screen so my settings will be nothing like yours if you're using a white screen, but hot damn! I'm done. I found exactly the settings I like for all my HDR movies here. The Masciola suite is clutch for black, white, and color clipping settings. After that's done you'll be stunned!!! 
The gamma is based on Oledurt/Harper original high positive gamma. 
Super White is ON! 

Gamma numbers are 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,32,32

Let me know what you think. 
Here's the link to R. Masciola's suite download
http://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/dvs_products.html


----------



## Evan201

Direct TV NBC sports now in 10 bit BT2020 4:4:4 1080i 60hz? 

Lookin good DTV.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

c.kingsley said:


> I swap between these two modes from the PDF posted elsewhere in the thread, depending on how dark/bright the disk is:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Oledurt by dimi123 (Digital Cinema)
> 
> 2. Oledurt's New #1 (Bright Cinema)
> 
> 
> 
> I set both of these in discrete memory slots, 4k Dark and 4k Bright. That makes it easy for the family to understand. The settings I've saved are almost exactly as listed in the PDF with the exception that I use Image Enhancement 2 for both, medium lamp for digital cinema, and made minor tweaks to brightness/contrast for my viewing environment. I always start with option 1. If its too dark then I switch to option 2. I haven't found a movie yet that didn't look outstanding on one of these two modes. It helps if you record which mode works for which disks so you don't have to fiddle when hosting company for movies.
> 
> 
> 
> For bluray / rec 709 I use Natural mode, ECO lamp, Image Enhancement 2, and iris clamped to -12. You can pop in the AVS HD709 disk and get your brightness, contrast (and colors dialed if you have a blue filter). I haven't found any other adjustments necessary for bluray content. Early on some of us, including me, were making the mistake of watching bluray on Cinema mode, but this has a P3 filter engaged, so it isn't correct. Natural is almost perfect for a non-calibrated SDR experience using default settings. This is the mode the projector is in for 95% of viewing.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried Harpervision too but I found the colors were not to my taste. Your mileage may vary, he has quite a following of people using this mode.




Thank u so much for the explanation. I tried both of Oledurt settings, they look good, but I keep going back to an older setting stored few months back, I cant remember the poster name, but I find it produce picture of my liking. 

Bright Cinema 
brightness 52
contrast 46
color 57
tint 45
color temp 5
skin tone 3
gamma 0, 10,22,27,29,30,29,14,0
lamp mode: normal


----------



## pjb16

Juiced46 said:


> I upgraded from a 5025 which is identical to the 5030. I feel it is a large improvement and was worth the upgrade. The main thing is, what do you use it for? For gaming, I noticed a very big difference, and now that I have 4k and HDR working, it is even better.
> 
> My girlfriend immediately noticed the difference and she usually has no idea about that stuff.


I will be doing video games, movies, and tv.

Probably 65% / 10% / 25%.


----------



## urcha

hatlesschimp said:


> Verry impressed with the new call of duty ww2 with the Xbox One X and this projector. I LIKE COD again! First game in like 3 or 4 years thats any good! IMO 😂
> 
> https://youtu.be/Yfd-zQZLp7M


Hatless, thanks for all your videos. You're the reason I got into projector gaming/home theater. I can never go back to a TV now haha. Keep up the good work!


----------



## ed3120

I read through the manual and I have a question about the memory settings.

I'd like to set up one set of settings for movies, and a few for video games, etc. (Saving difference preferences for the 4K enhancement or the motion interpolation, etc.) I'd probably like to have 5 or 6 presets. How many button presses does it take to shift between these via the remote?

I have a Harmony Remote and I'd like to automatically select the memories for different situations. This would be easy if there were 6-8 preset buttons, or the ability to press "Memory" and then the "1" button or "2" button to select one. It will be difficult if the process is to hit the "Memory" button and then scroll through the memories via the up and down buttons, since you don't know which Memory mode you are currently on, and can't plan for how many times you need to hit up or down to get to the one you want.

Thanks. I haven't purchased yet, so I only have the documentation to refer to.


----------



## Chris the Rock

ed3120 said:


> I read through the manual and I have a question about the memory settings.
> 
> I'd like to set up one set of settings for movies, and a few for video games, etc. (Saving difference preferences for the 4K enhancement or the motion interpolation, etc.) I'd probably like to have 5 or 6 presets. How many button presses does it take to shift between these via the remote?
> 
> I have a Harmony Remote and I'd like to automatically select the memories for different situations. This would be easy if there were 6-8 preset buttons, or the ability to press "Memory" and then the "1" button or "2" button to select one. It will be difficult if the process is to hit the "Memory" button and then scroll through the memories via the up and down buttons, since you don't know which Memory mode you are currently on, and can't plan for how many times you need to hit up or down to get to the one you want.
> 
> Thanks. I haven't purchased yet, so I only have the documentation to refer to.


I own a Harmony Remote, and the shortcoming you've described is something I've had to work around.
This is how I did it:

To begin, I should say I own the Harmony Ultimate remote with the screen, which uses a Hub.

To switch between projector memory settings, my major annoyance was that once I launched an Activity, the remote's buttons (such as up, down, select, so forth) were set to the playback device. So even if I placed a "Memory" label on the screen, it would launch the Epson's Memory menu, but I couldn't select anything because the buttons didn't work.

What I did was to get in the habit of pressing the "Devices" button, selecting the Projector from the list of devices, then going into Memory (from a button I'd placed on the screen), and choosing the memory I wanted from the list. After exiting the Memory menu, I'd just go back to the Activity by pressing the screen button at the bottom left of the screen. Here's the button press sequence:
1. Press the Devices Button
2. Select the Projector.
3. Select "Memory" from the on-screen selection. I have it listed first.
4. Choose the memory (that could take several "down button" presses).
5. Press OK.
6. Press the "Go back to Activity" button (whatever that's called).

So it's something like 6-12 actual button presses, depending on the memory you need to select.

Yes, it's some extra steps, and it's a pain if I'd ever need to explain it to someone else, but luckily I don't. But it does work, and since I'm mostly doing one of two things: Gaming or Watching Movies, I can live with the extra steps. And they are steps that are taken only once every couple of hours at the most.

Still, I wish they'd have provided some discrete codes to jump right into a memory preset, so I could program that to the startup macro for an activity.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Chris the Rock said:


> I own a Harmony Remote, and the shortcoming you've described is something I've had to work around.
> This is how I did it:
> 
> To begin, I should say I own the Harmony Ultimate remote with the screen, which uses a Hub.
> 
> To switch between projector memory settings, my major annoyance was that once I launched an Activity, the remote's buttons (such as up, down, select, so forth) were set to the playback device. So even if I placed a "Memory" label on the screen, it would launch the Epson's Memory menu, but I couldn't select anything because the buttons didn't work.


For each Activity, you can add a Start Sequence which includes operating the device of your choice (e.g., the projector in this case).


----------



## Chris the Rock

Dominic Chan said:


> For each Activity, you can add a Start Sequence which includes operating the device of your choice (e.g., the projector in this case).


I appreciate info, I just don't know how that helps me. Not that I'm looking for help - but how does a Start Sequence help?

If I start the "Watch a Movie" activity, I want the directional buttons to operate my UHD player. It's only when I need to "step out" of the activity that I need the remote to do something different. And I only need to do that in the event that I need to change the projector's Memory Preset, which isn't every time.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding. Or I explained poorly.


----------



## Azekecse

c.kingsley said:


> When set to one of the "... All Sound" custom EDID modes, yes.





Evan201 said:


> Direct TV NBC sports now in 10 bit BT2020 4:4:4 1080i 60hz?
> 
> Lookin good DTV.


Nice C. Kingsley...Ok I have Directv (attached to X1X), Epson 6040 and HDFury Linker. What are your settings to achieve 10 bit BT2020 4:4:4? Perhaps my settings are incorrect...I'm somewhat new to the HDFruy Linker so this question may seem sophomoric..thanks in advance.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

c.kingsley said:


> When set to one of the "... All Sound" custom EDID modes, yes.





Evan201 said:


> Direct TV NBC sports now in 10 bit BT2020 4:4:4 1080i 60hz?
> 
> Lookin good DTV.


Nice C. Kingsley...Ok I have Directv (attached to X1X), Epson 6040 and HDFury Linker. What are your settings to achieve 10 bit BT2020 4:4:4? Perhaps my settings are incorrect...I'm somewhat new to the HDFury Linker so this question may seem sophomoric..thanks in advance.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## stupot1971

ana_moo_ana said:


> For 1.09 I used the Australian website (UK update wasn’t available back then). Seems will be doing the same with 1.10


Hi. I can't seem to find 1.10 on the Australian website. Have you got a link direct to the file?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## c.kingsley

Azekecse said:


> Nice C. Kingsley...Ok I have Directv (attached to X1X), Epson 6040 and HDFury Linker. What are your settings to achieve 10 bit BT2020 4:4:4? Perhaps my settings are incorrect...I'm somewhat new to the HDFury Linker so this question may seem sophomoric..thanks in advance.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


We should discuss what the Linker does (and does not) do. The Linker enables presenting a custom EDID to the input device. In the case of the X1X, this enables tricking it into outputting modes that the display doesn't support. It doesn't enable the Epson to display modes that it lacks the capability for. The 5040/6040 do not support 4k60 unless it is 8 bit. On the first screen, select the custom EDID of 4k60 4:4:4 BT 2020 HDR All Sound. Then one of the options on the scaling tab, I believe, is the 4k60 preset. Set that drop down 4k60 4:2:0 and check the box. This will take the 10 or 12 bit input from X1X and convert it to 8bit for proper display. Meanwhile, the X1X still believes your display is capable of 4k60 4:4:4.

Also, look at the hardware sliders on the device and ensure you aren't in "downscale" or 1080p mode.


----------



## mase1981

Quick update, thank you all for your suggestions and screenshots. 
i got my linker, put EDID 2 and 2 the modes. 
tested XB1X, all greens 
tested Gears Of Wars 4 with Epson preset 4, looks AMAZING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i was so happy !!!
tonight i will test out Atmos to verify thats still working.


----------



## Juiced46

pjb16 said:


> I will be doing video games, movies, and tv.
> 
> Probably 65% / 10% / 25%.


That is about the same as me. I do alot of gaming. For gaming alone it is worth the upgrade. If you throw a Linker in the mix to get 4k/HDR its even better! I was amazed at how much better my Xbox looked when I upgraded. Another thing is, the 5040 does not have as much input lag as the 5030. It also does not degrade the image if you use "fast" mode. If the wife is allowing it and you have the spare cash. DO IT!

Also I am sending you a PM


----------



## NetViper

mase1981 said:


> Quick update, thank you all for your suggestions and screenshots.
> i got my linker, put EDID 2 and 2 the modes.
> tested XB1X, all greens
> tested Gears Of Wars 4 with Epson preset 4, looks AMAZING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> i was so happy !!!
> tonight i will test out Atmos to verify thats still working.


Sounds like I need to order a linker. Do you notice any banding? How does it look without the linker?


----------



## Diezzler

Does anyone have the service manual for the projector, or know any special startup diagnostic key sequences?

I have one that indicates and internal error by the flashing code. I changed both the ballast and the power supply boards with new ones, but still get the same error.

The manual seems to indicate that they added error sequences for the filters now that the old cinema projectors lacked, so I don't believe those are the cause based on the lack of that error.

Projector starts up, all fans run, and I can hear the iris opening up. Just as the bulb lights for the first time. Less than half a second it shuts down, fans on full speed, and the internal light indicators.

Any thoughts?

Thanks for all the help


----------



## ed3120

Chris the Rock said:


> I own a Harmony Remote, and the shortcoming you've described is something I've had to work around.
> 
> This is how I did it:
> 
> 
> 
> To begin, I should say I own the Harmony Ultimate remote with the screen, which uses a Hub.
> 
> 
> 
> To switch between projector memory settings, my major annoyance was that once I launched an Activity, the remote's buttons (such as up, down, select, so forth) were set to the playback device. So even if I placed a "Memory" label on the screen, it would launch the Epson's Memory menu, but I couldn't select anything because the buttons didn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> What I did was to get in the habit of pressing the "Devices" button, selecting the Projector from the list of devices, then going into Memory (from a button I'd placed on the screen), and choosing the memory I wanted from the list. After exiting the Memory menu, I'd just go back to the Activity by pressing the screen button at the bottom left of the screen. Here's the button press sequence:
> 
> 1. Press the Devices Button
> 
> 2. Select the Projector.
> 
> 3. Select "Memory" from the on-screen selection. I have it listed first.
> 
> 4. Choose the memory (that could take several "down button" presses).
> 
> 5. Press OK.
> 
> 6. Press the "Go back to Activity" button (whatever that's called).
> 
> 
> 
> So it's something like 6-12 actual button presses, depending on the memory you need to select.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it's some extra steps, and it's a pain if I'd ever need to explain it to someone else, but luckily I don't. But it does work, and since I'm mostly doing one of two things: Gaming or Watching Movies, I can live with the extra steps. And they are steps that are taken only once every couple of hours at the most.
> 
> 
> 
> Still, I wish they'd have provided some discrete codes to jump right into a memory preset, so I could program that to the startup macro for an activity.




Here’s a suggestion. You may find that you don’t really use the number keys for certain activities. For instance, I never use the number keys in my Watch Movie or Play Game activities. So they sit there wasted. For those activities, consider remapping the 2, 4, 6, 8 keys as the Up, Left, Right, Down projector keys. Map, etc. Then map 5 to the OK button, and maybe 1 to the Memory Button. That should be easy to remember and allow you to quickly jump through the menus without going to Device mode and back. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ed3120

Chris the Rock said:


> I appreciate info, I just don't know how that helps me. Not that I'm looking for help - but how does a Start Sequence help?
> 
> 
> 
> If I start the "Watch a Movie" activity, I want the directional buttons to operate my UHD player. It's only when I need to "step out" of the activity that I need the remote to do something different. And I only need to do that in the event that I need to change the projector's Memory Preset, which isn't every time.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'm misunderstanding. Or I explained poorly.




I think he’s saying this:

Let’s say you have three memory presets all using the same source, like a PlayStation. 
1. Movie-Night
2. Movie-Day 
3. Video Game

If you can figure out the exact pattern of buttons to bring up each preset, you can program these into the startup sequence of an Activity and build 3 Activities. 

Activity 1 can be Movie-Night, which after turning on your projector and setting the right input, can send the following sequence to your projector: Memory, Down, Down, Down, Ok. (Whatever the button combo would be.) Then you are all set up to watch a movie at night. 

Then go through and make the Movie-Day and Video Game activities, just changing the button combo on the sequences to Memory, Down, OK or whatever it would be. 

When you are done watching a movie and want to play a game, just switch activities on the remote. Even though the source may be the same, the remote will launch the correct startup sequence to put you in the right memory setting. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## njbrodeur87

Hey everyone, late to the party here, I’d appreciate if someone can help me out. Have Epson 5040ub and ps4 pro and Xbox one x. How do both of these work with hdr and 4K currently without a the linker?

Now if I decide to get he linker, what will it let me do different on these systems?

How exactly do I setup the linker for these systems?

Anyone have a direct link for purchase?

Last question even with linker how close do Xbox and os4 enchanced look compared to a regular 4K tv? Will it be much better then regular 1080? 

Thanks in advance


----------



## Nutdotnet

njbrodeur87 said:


> Hey everyone, late to the party here, I’d appreciate if someone can help me out. Have Epson 5040ub and ps4 pro and Xbox one x. How do both of these work with hdr and 4K currently without a the linker?
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I decide to get he linker, what will it let me do different on these systems?
> 
> 
> 
> How exactly do I setup the linker for these systems?
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have a direct link for purchase?
> 
> 
> 
> Last question even with linker how close do Xbox and os4 enchanced look compared to a regular 4K tv? Will it be much better then regular 1080?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance




Ok dude....I hate to be “that guy” to say “read the thread” but c’mon man....you’re asking what’s been covered in just the last few pages. I get the thread is huge, but the least folks can do is a little of your own reading, even if it’s 15-20 minutes worth before posting.

This place is super helpful. I too have asked some questions that I know were answered previously, but I at least tried to find the answer myself before cluttering up the thread...this is why it’s 1100+ pages long.

If I can manage, working 12-14 Hours a day and 6-7 days a week, you can too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## njbrodeur87

Nutdotnet said:


> Ok dude....I hate to be “that guy” to say “read the thread” but c’mon man....you’re asking what’s been covered in just the last few pages. I get the thread is huge, but the least folks can do is a little of your own reading, even if it’s 15-20 minutes worth before posting.
> 
> This place is super helpful. I too have asked some questions that I know were answered previously, but I at least tried to find the answer myself before cluttering up the thread...this is why it’s 1100+ pages long.
> 
> If I can manage, working 12-14 Hours a day and 6-7 days a week, you can too.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sorry you feel that way, I read last couple and still had these questions to be clear. Anyway if someone helpful can help me out that be great


----------



## Diezzler

In case anyone can help me with my internal error projector, I wanted to provide an update.

Ballast and power supply boards were changed with new ones. 
All fans are confirmed working. 
All temperature sensors have resistance, and assumed to work correctly. 
The cinema filter moves on its own when its in the "engaged position" back to its normal (off/out of the way) spot, and seems to work/function fine. 
The main power filter board appears intact, checked all solder joints (and re-soldered them), capacitor has a good ESR, and copper coils have resistance. 

Projector won't flash/start the lamp on startup when the iris/sensor is unplugged. With it is plugged in, it flashes the lamp for 0.5 sec before going into safety mode. 
I removed the iris from the optical assembly, but kept it plugged in to the board. On started up the flaps don't move at all. Not sure if the projector adjusts the iris on startup or not, and could be the cause if it is supposed to adjust it. The iris sensor does seem to work though, since it won't flash the lamp with it unplugged. The iris motor/gears seem in good condition, and removal of the motor appears to show it is intact/fin, but no resistance/movement on startup when it is plugged in. 

When holding the power button and plugging it in (without a firmware update USB), it starts up (without the lamp on) and when I let go of the power button, the projector turns off after 5 seconds and blinks 5 blue status flashes. Not sure if that is some secret code/error code for diagnostics. 

I did use a brand new bulb

Any thoughts?

Thanks


----------



## JewDaddy

So after reading through all these different post about what people think the Xbox one X is doing with the Epson projector this is kind of how I perceive it. Without having any type of Linker involved between the Epson and the Xbox chain, there is no way to get native 4K output when gaming. If someone plays the Xbox one X with an Xbox one x game that supports 4K you’re not actually getting native 4K, you’re getting upscaled 4K. The best way for me to compare that is taking a 4K UHD movie and putting it in a Blu-ray player that upscales 4K but doesn’t display native 4K content. So yes, you are watching a 4K movie, but because of the Blu-ray players limitations, you’re only watching an upscaled 4K movie. Am I understanding this correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

njbrodeur87 said:


> Hey everyone, late to the party here, I’d appreciate if someone can help me out. Have Epson 5040ub and ps4 pro and Xbox one x. How do both of these work with hdr and 4K currently without a the linker?
> 
> Now if I decide to get he linker, what will it let me do different on these systems?
> 
> How exactly do I setup the linker for these systems?
> 
> Anyone have a direct link for purchase?
> 
> Last question even with linker how close do Xbox and os4 enchanced look compared to a regular 4K tv? Will it be much better then regular 1080?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Like mentioned, all of your questions have been covered in the past few pages. There are even pictures of it all. Spend a few minutes to search and read. Linker links are posted, exact neededsettings with pictures, what works, what doesnt everything you need to know. Also the "search this thread" feature works nice  But I think if you go back 3-4 pages, everything you want to know is there.



Nutdotnet said:


> Ok dude....I hate to be “that guy” to say “read the thread” but c’mon man....you’re asking what’s been covered in just the last few pages. I get the thread is huge, but the least folks can do is a little of your own reading, even if it’s 15-20 minutes worth before posting.
> 
> This place is super helpful. I too have asked some questions that I know were answered previously, but I at least tried to find the answer myself before cluttering up the thread...this is why it’s 1100+ pages long.
> 
> If I can manage, working 12-14 Hours a day and 6-7 days a week, you can too.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


My thoughts exactly. I know its hard to read through 4985986 posts, this thread is massive, but there is a nice search feature.  



JewDaddy said:


> So after reading through all these different post about what people think the Xbox one X is doing with the Epson projector this is kind of how I perceive it. Without having any type of Linker involved between the Epson and the Xbox chain, there is no way to get native 4K output when gaming. If someone plays the Xbox one X with an Xbox one x game that supports 4K you’re not actually getting native 4K, you’re getting upscaled 4K. The best way for me to compare that is taking a 4K UHD movie and putting it in a Blu-ray player that upscales 4K but doesn’t display native 4K content. So yes, you are watching a 4K movie, but because of the Blu-ray players limitations, you’re only watching an upscaled 4K movie. Am I understanding this correct?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You are 100% correct


----------



## Soccerdude

Evan201 said:


> Direct TV NBC sports now in 10 bit BT2020 4:4:4 1080i 60hz?
> 
> Lookin good DTV.


It's time for a new bulb my friend.


----------



## NetViper

my Linker is on the way and I don’t even have the Xbox one x yet! 😀


----------



## SALadder22FF

Soccerdude said:


> It's time for a new bulb my friend.


Aren't these rated for 4500 hours? 

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

I'm ordering a linker to get the best out of my X1X, but ACO is the most gorgeous game I've played and that's just the upscaled 4k non HDR version.









Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> Like mentioned, all of your questions have been covered in the past few pages. There are even pictures of it all. Spend a few minutes to search and read. Linker links are posted, exact neededsettings with pictures, what works, what doesnt everything you need to know. Also the "search this thread" feature works nice  But I think if you go back 3-4 pages, everything you want to know is there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My thoughts exactly. I know its hard to read through 4985986 posts, this thread is massive, but there is a nice search feature.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are 100% correct




That’s what I was afraid of..... It’s so hard to believe that we’re not getting a full native 4K signal from the Xbox because it looks so damn good! In saying that, I do have a question for you. Since you have been using the linker and it’s assumed that we’re only getting an upscaled 4K picture, when you did play an Xbox one X enhanced game that supports native 4K, did you notice a difference in sharpness or clarity or resolution when using your Linker? 

I realize there has been some testing going on to check to see what signal is coming in and what is passing through and all that other stuff which still goes over my head most of the time, but the part that has me the most intrigued is whether or not the linker actually helps with the perceived sharpness and clarity and resolution of the picture. Because if it does not and it only helps with getting HDR, then maybe we actually are getting a full native 4K signal coming to the projector from the Xbox no matter what anything else says…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mase1981

Chris the Rock said:


> I own a Harmony Remote, and the shortcoming you've described is something I've had to work around.
> This is how I did it:
> 
> To begin, I should say I own the Harmony Ultimate remote with the screen, which uses a Hub.
> 
> To switch between projector memory settings, my major annoyance was that once I launched an Activity, the remote's buttons (such as up, down, select, so forth) were set to the playback device. So even if I placed a "Memory" label on the screen, it would launch the Epson's Memory menu, but I couldn't select anything because the buttons didn't work.
> 
> What I did was to get in the habit of pressing the "Devices" button, selecting the Projector from the list of devices, then going into Memory (from a button I'd placed on the screen), and choosing the memory I wanted from the list. After exiting the Memory menu, I'd just go back to the Activity by pressing the screen button at the bottom left of the screen. Here's the button press sequence:
> 1. Press the Devices Button
> 2. Select the Projector.
> 3. Select "Memory" from the on-screen selection. I have it listed first.
> 4. Choose the memory (that could take several "down button" presses).
> 5. Press OK.
> 6. Press the "Go back to Activity" button (whatever that's called).
> 
> So it's something like 6-12 actual button presses, depending on the memory you need to select.
> 
> Yes, it's some extra steps, and it's a pain if I'd ever need to explain it to someone else, but luckily I don't. But it does work, and since I'm mostly doing one of two things: Gaming or Watching Movies, I can live with the extra steps. And they are steps that are taken only once every couple of hours at the most.
> 
> Still, I wish they'd have provided some discrete codes to jump right into a memory preset, so I could program that to the startup macro for an activity.





Dominic Chan said:


> For each Activity, you can add a Start Sequence which includes operating the device of your choice (e.g., the projector in this case).





Chris the Rock said:


> I appreciate info, I just don't know how that helps me. Not that I'm looking for help - but how does a Start Sequence help?
> 
> If I start the "Watch a Movie" activity, I want the directional buttons to operate my UHD player. It's only when I need to "step out" of the activity that I need the remote to do something different. And I only need to do that in the event that I need to change the projector's Memory Preset, which isn't every time.
> 
> Maybe I'm misunderstanding. Or I explained poorly.





ed3120 said:


> Here’s a suggestion. You may find that you don’t really use the number keys for certain activities. For instance, I never use the number keys in my Watch Movie or Play Game activities. So they sit there wasted. For those activities, consider remapping the 2, 4, 6, 8 keys as the Up, Left, Right, Down projector keys. Map, etc. Then map 5 to the OK button, and maybe 1 to the Memory Button. That should be easy to remember and allow you to quickly jump through the menus without going to Device mode and back.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





ed3120 said:


> I think he’s saying this:
> 
> Let’s say you have three memory presets all using the same source, like a PlayStation.
> 1. Movie-Night
> 2. Movie-Day
> 3. Video Game
> 
> If you can figure out the exact pattern of buttons to bring up each preset, you can program these into the startup sequence of an Activity and build 3 Activities.
> 
> Activity 1 can be Movie-Night, which after turning on your projector and setting the right input, can send the following sequence to your projector: Memory, Down, Down, Down, Ok. (Whatever the button combo would be.) Then you are all set up to watch a movie at night.
> 
> Then go through and make the Movie-Day and Video Game activities, just changing the button combo on the sequences to Memory, Down, OK or whatever it would be.
> 
> When you are done watching a movie and want to play a game, just switch activities on the remote. Even though the source may be the same, the remote will launch the correct startup sequence to put you in the right memory setting.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Hey guys, i am sure i am not inventing the wheel here and am sure you guys probably know this, so please accept my apologies if you already do ... 
With that being said why don't you guys simply create a sequence within your activity and map it to an unused physical button. 
This is exactly what i have done, for an example: 
created a sequence that will open the projector "information" window and let me know the stats of current input (4k, HDR etc) and mapped that to the physical "info" button on the elite remote...
if i have misread all that you guys wrote, and this is what you guys already talked about, my apologies  
you can then create several memory jumps and map them all to unused buttons (like maybe the color buttons)


----------



## mase1981

njbrodeur87 said:


> Hey everyone, late to the party here, I’d appreciate if someone can help me out. Have Epson 5040ub and ps4 pro and Xbox one x. How do both of these work with hdr and 4K currently without a the linker?
> 
> Now if I decide to get he linker, what will it let me do different on these systems?
> 
> How exactly do I setup the linker for these systems?
> 
> Anyone have a direct link for purchase?
> 
> Last question even with linker how close do Xbox and os4 enchanced look compared to a regular 4K tv? Will it be much better then regular 1080?
> 
> Thanks in advance





njbrodeur87 said:


> Sorry you feel that way, I read last couple and still had these questions to be clear. Anyway if someone helpful can help me out that be great


You can either get the linker directly from the manufacturer: (Taiwan) 
https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/

Or you can get it from monoprice: (US)
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27330

[Update 12/11/2017] - Download and use firmware .25 (version 21), use the link below and go to download section. 
Manual, firmware, drivers and software can be found here:
https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/#tab-tab-download

You can either use a computer to do all that or buy an additional bluetooth adapter so you wont need a computer for the configuration (its just easier if you dont want to disconnect and move rooms each time, not a must:
https://www.hdfury.com/product/goblue/
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27329

Once you get it and put the 19a firmware, here are the config settings you need to do. 
added both from PC and via the Geo Blue. 
if you follow these settings exactly it will work with XB1S and get all greens.
Honestly, this should be a sticky


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> That’s what I was afraid of..... It’s so hard to believe that we’re not getting a full native 4K signal from the Xbox because it looks so damn good! In saying that, I do have a question for you. Since you have been using the linker and it’s assumed that we’re only getting an upscaled 4K picture, when you did play an Xbox one X enhanced game that supports native 4K, did you notice a difference in sharpness or clarity or resolution when using your Linker?
> 
> I realize there has been some testing going on to check to see what signal is coming in and what is passing through and all that other stuff which still goes over my head most of the time, but the part that has me the most intrigued is whether or not the linker actually helps with the perceived sharpness and clarity and resolution of the picture. Because if it does not and it only helps with getting HDR, then maybe we actually are getting a full native 4K signal coming to the projector from the Xbox no matter what anything else says…
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When I first got the X I thought I was getting a 4K picture until it was mentioned on this forum that it is being upscaled with a link from Microsofts support page stating exactly how it works. I thought it looked damn good too. It is indeed an upscaled 1080P image to 4K with no Linker, I have verified this. 

With that being said, the difference is noticeable with the Linker. Also, with the Linker, you are absolutely 100% getting Native 4K. I have also confirmed this. 

To put it into perspective. Before I had the Linker, I would game in my theater room on my 5040. Sometimes I would stop and go upstairs and play on my living room 65" Samsung LED 1080P TV and it would look better then the 5040. Last night I played COD with the Linker for an hour or so on the 5040. Stopped and decided to go upstairs and play on the Samsung and immediately noticed the difference that the 5040 looked way better, way more detail etc. Also, you can see the difference in my pictures as well, but pictures downsized on a computer do not do it justice. I will try to get better comparisons if I have time today. But IMO, the Linker is well worth the $200. There are a few quirks with it I would like to work out, but overall I am still happy with it for gaming.


----------



## mikecoscia

mase1981 said:


> You can either get the linker directly from the manufacturer: (Taiwan)
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> 
> Or you can get it from monoprice: (US)
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27330
> 
> When you get it you will need to put firmware 019a on it (which is proven better then the newer version).
> Manual, firmware, drivers and software can be found here:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/#tab-tab-download
> 
> You can either use a computer to do all that or buy an additional bluetooth adapter so you wont need a computer for the configuration (its just easier if you dont want to disconnect and move rooms each time, not a must:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/goblue/
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27329
> 
> Once you get it and put the 19a firmware, here are the config settings you need to do.
> added both from PC and via the Geo Blue.
> if you follow these settings exactly it will work with XB1S and get all greens.
> Honestly, this should be a sticky


Thanks for this! Hooked up my Xbox One X this morning and was disappointed to see what everyone else is as well. Just ordered the linker and Bluetooth dongle from monoprice. Quick question, does the Linker go between my xbox and the receiver or the receiver and the projector?


----------



## mase1981

Dominic Chan said:


> When comparing the two options, please note that Monoprice does not include the 5V 2A power adapter, whereas the manufacturer does.


Not True, i got mine from Monoprice and it did include the power adapter with 2 USB slots. 


Dominic Chan said:


> I cannot find firmware 019a there. The oldest one there is 020 (with 023 being the latest)


http://www.hdfurylinker.com/wp-content/plugins/download-attachments/includes/download.php?id=195


----------



## mase1981

mikecoscia said:


> Thanks for this! Hooked up my Xbox One X this morning and was disappointed to see what everyone else is as well. Just ordered the linker and Bluetooth dongle from monoprice. Quick question, does the Linker go between my xbox and the receiver or the receiver and the projector?


I put mine between my yamaha and the PRJ
yamaha --> linker --> prj


----------



## livitup311

pjb16 said:


> Not really familiar with any dealers who would have it.
> 
> 
> 
> I do have like 45 day returns at Best Buy, so I may just get it and try it for a few weeks.




If any nearby Best Buy stores have a Magnolia in them, they will likely have the 6040 in one of their demo rooms. The picture will be the same between the 5040 and the 6040.


----------



## Dominic Chan

mase1981 said:


> Not True, i got mine from Monoprice and it did include the power adapter with 2 USB slots.


My statement was based on second-hand information. I bought one from a forum member here, and received the unit without the power adapter. When I questioned him, he claimed that this was how he received it from Monoprice 

http://www.hdfurylinker.com/wp-content/plugins/download-attachments/includes/download.php?id=195
Thanks. I'll give it a try.


----------



## mase1981

Dominic Chan said:


> My statement was based on second-hand information. I bought one from a forum member here, and received the unit without the power adapter. When I questioned him, he claimed that this was how he received it from Monoprice
> 
> http://www.hdfurylinker.com/wp-content/plugins/download-attachments/includes/download.php?id=195
> Thanks. I'll give it a try.


He probably forgot to send you, and didn't want to ship it again


----------



## mikecoscia

mase1981 said:


> I put mine between my yamaha and the PRJ
> yamaha --> linker --> prj


Doesn't that affect every device going to the projector? For example, my PS4 Pro, cable box, dvd player, etc....won't they all have the same settings applied that I set for the xbox1x?


----------



## mase1981

mikecoscia said:


> Doesn't that affect every device going to the projector? For example, my PS4 Pro, cable box, dvd player, etc....won't they all have the same settings applied that I set for the xbox1x?


If you follow my instructions you will see that there are 2 profiles on the linker. One suitable for the Xbox and one for other devices, that will not be affected and be essentially path through 
Look at the pics, read the manual. I did my research like crazy literally 2 days ago when I had the exact same questions you have and then paid extra 60$ to get it all in 1 day lol


----------



## Azekecse

mase1981 said:


> Not True, i got mine from Monoprice and it did include the power adapter with 2 USB slots.
> 
> http://www.hdfurylinker.com/wp-content/plugins/download-attachments/includes/download.php?id=195


Yes, I also received the power adapter w/ 2 USB slots, via Monoprice...just saying' 

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## mikecoscia

mase1981 said:


> If you follow my instructions you will see that there are 2 profiles on the linker. One suitable for the Xbox and one for other devices, that will not be affected and be essentially path through
> Look at the pics, read the manual. I did my research like crazy literally 2 days ago when I had the exact same questions you have and then paid extra 60$ to get it all in 1 day lol


Yeah, just noticed the 2 next to EDID Custom. Gonna spend the afternoon reading the past few pages and checking out the manual. Everything working well for you with the linker? Thanks again for the help. Mind if I PM you if I can't figure something out...lol.


----------



## mase1981

mikecoscia said:


> Yeah, just noticed the 2 next to EDID Custom. Gonna spend the afternoon reading the past few pages and checking out the manual. Everything working well for you with the linker? Thanks again for the help. Mind if I PM you if I can't figure something out...lol.


So far working fine, but I have it less then 24 hours lol. My tests are doing good. Gears of War 4 I almost peed my pants after adding the linker... Sure u can pm, just be specific with ur questions lol. Good luck man, it's so much easier then u think. Dont get overwhelmed


----------



## Azekecse

mase1981 said:


> If you follow my instructions you will see that there are 2 profiles on the linker. One suitable for the Xbox and one for other devices, that will not be affected and be essentially path through
> Look at the pics, read the manual. I did my research like crazy literally 2 days ago when I had the exact same questions you have and then paid extra 60$ to get it all in 1 day lol


Hmmm, that explains it Mase...I got the green check boxes, but not two separate profiles I missed that. My projector is ~35 ft away, and I currently have it on top of the projector (AVR>Linker>Projector). I guess I could move the Linker closer by placing it at the AVR location. Are two separate profiles worth the hassle of switching the HDMI ports if that it how you switch the profiles? Or do you utilize the EDID switch?

_I found this information in the HDFury Linker Forum, not sure if it's relative:_

_*Trying to get Xbox one X to see 4k/60 and then convert that to what the Epson can use. I have tried using the preset and also messed around in the GUI, I've gotten the checkmarks needed but then either it's stuck in 1080p or the screen on the Epson says Unsupported. I know I'm missing something, what settings are recommended? Thanks!

These are the settings I'm shooting for, which I thought I had right in the GUI. These are from the App which I do not have.
Put EDID slide on CUSTOM and then HOLD RST and press INP 3 times and you should be just fine.

If you are unsure if you changed any settings, reset the unit before doing the above , hold RST for 8s*_


I'm still trying to learn the ways of the Linker 

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> When I first got the X I thought I was getting a 4K picture until it was mentioned on this forum that it is being upscaled with a link from Microsofts support page stating exactly how it works. I thought it looked damn good too. It is indeed an upscaled 1080P image to 4K with no Linker, I have verified this.
> 
> 
> 
> With that being said, the difference is noticeable with the Linker. Also, with the Linker, you are absolutely 100% getting Native 4K. I have also confirmed this.
> 
> 
> 
> To put it into perspective. Before I had the Linker, I would game in my theater room on my 5040. Sometimes I would stop and go upstairs and play on my living room 65" Samsung LED 1080P TV and it would look better then the 5040. Last night I played COD with the Linker for an hour or so on the 5040. Stopped and decided to go upstairs and play on the Samsung and immediately noticed the difference that the 5040 looked way better, way more detail etc. Also, you can see the difference in my pictures as well, but pictures downsized on a computer do not do it justice. I will try to get better comparisons if I have time today. But IMO, the Linker is well worth the $200. There are a few quirks with it I would like to work out, but overall I am still happy with it for gaming.




Ok well now I feel much better about using the Linker. I ordered mine last Saturday and emailed customer support to find out status and it’s shipping Monday. I was under the impression I was getting the full resolution just not the hdr. Finding out I wasn’t getting both already makes me feel like it’s worth it. The sad part is that my Xbox one x went from costing $499.99 to $699.99. Oh well, that’s life. 

Curious though about the PS4 pro. I have that also and play down on the 5040. Am I not getting a full 4k native signal from that or is this issue specifically with the Xbox and how it processes the 4K signal?

Lastly, is the one X not sending native 4k to the Epson because it can’t handle 10 or 12 bit color at that resolution at 60hz??? Just trying to wrap my head around why the PS4 can output games in 4k but the Xbox can’t. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ed3120

mase1981 said:


> Hey guys, i am sure i am not inventing the wheel here and am sure you guys probably know this, so please accept my apologies if you already do ...
> With that being said why don't you guys simply create a sequence within your activity and map it to an unused physical button.
> This is exactly what i have done, for an example:
> created a sequence that will open the projector "information" window and let me know the stats of current input (4k, HDR etc) and mapped that to the physical "info" button on the elite remote...
> if i have misread all that you guys wrote, and this is what you guys already talked about, my apologies
> you can then create several memory jumps and map them all to unused buttons (like maybe the color buttons)


I have a Harmony 900 and you can't map a sequence to a single button. You can only run sequences via Activity startup.


----------



## ed3120

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm ordering a linker to get the best out of my X1X, but ACO is the most gorgeous game I've played and that's just the upscaled 4k non HDR version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


This setup looks insanely cool. Which specific product did you use for the LED lights?


----------



## mase1981

ed3120 said:


> I have a Harmony 900 and you can't map a sequence to a single button. You can only run sequences via Activity startup.


Time to upgrade to the elite


----------



## njbrodeur87

mase1981 said:


> You can either get the linker directly from the manufacturer: (Taiwan)
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> 
> Or you can get it from monoprice: (US)
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27330
> 
> When you get it you will need to put firmware 019a on it (which is proven better then the newer version).
> Manual, firmware, drivers and software can be found here:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/#tab-tab-download
> 
> You can either use a computer to do all that or buy an additional bluetooth adapter so you wont need a computer for the configuration (its just easier if you dont want to disconnect and move rooms each time, not a must:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/goblue/
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27329
> 
> Once you get it and put the 19a firmware, here are the config settings you need to do.
> added both from PC and via the Geo Blue.
> if you follow these settings exactly it will work with XB1S and get all greens.
> Honestly, this should be a sticky



****ing beautiful thank you, And I appreciate it. 

I’m assuming these settings will be perfect for the ps4 pro as well? I’ll just set it up between my denon receiver and Epson.

And I also assume based on the manual and ur settings that it will auto use what settings it need to just be a pass through for things I have connected like an old original Xbox, Wii U etc?

Was it also confirmed Dolby Atmos works with this linker setup as well?

Question for you or anyone else who wants to chime in, with a linker, would there be a noticeable difference between playing on this projector with a linker, or a 4K true hdtv? I have the option of either playing on my 5040 and buy a linker, or play on my Samsung 55 inch 4K tv.


Thanks again, sorry for all the questions I’ll stop after this lol


----------



## mase1981

njbrodeur87 said:


> ****ing beautiful thank you, And I appreciate it.


you are welcome  



njbrodeur87 said:


> I’m assuming these settings will be perfect for the ps4 pro as well? I’ll just set it up between my denon receiver and Epson.


Correct



njbrodeur87 said:


> And I also assume based on the manual and ur settings that it will auto use what settings it need to just be a pass through for things I have connected like an old original Xbox, Wii U etc?


Correct



njbrodeur87 said:


> Was it also confirmed Dolby Atmos works with this linker setup as well?


it shouldnt matter if you put between yout AV out to the PRJ in. The devices you are using go from device --> receiver sending both atmos and video (or if you are using 2 HDMI out) then Receiver just sends video out to the PRJ, ur not using PRJ speakers. so in your specific setup (as in mine) atmos should not be affected. 




njbrodeur87 said:


> Question for you or anyone else who wants to chime in, with a linker, would there be a noticeable difference between playing on this projector with a linker, or a 4K true hdtv? I have the option of either playing on my 5040 and buy a linker, or play on my Samsung 55 inch 4K tv.


Your question is kinda "silly"... unless you are using a 55" screen size with your projector lol. 
i mean, you cant really compare 55 to 120... as to quality, the Epson is NOT a native 4k so quality on the TV (high end TV )will be better, that being said with the settings people posted here, the linker and the xb1x it looks pretty damn freaking good.... i use my PRJ for everything, i have 70" in my bedroom i just play some TV before bed lol 




njbrodeur87 said:


> Thanks again, sorry for all the questions I’ll stop after this lol


There are no "stupid" questions, feel free to ask more if u still need help.


----------



## fritz11

Hallo
This week the HD Fury Vertex was testet
with my Epson Tw 9300 and the Xbox one s.( At Christmas i will buy the Xbox One X)and should also work with the vertex!
We have first a Little bit difficulties but now it works well!
4k and HDR works well!
cu
Ftc


----------



## njbrodeur87

mase1981 said:


> you are welcome
> 
> 
> Correct
> 
> 
> Correct
> 
> 
> it shouldnt matter if you put between yout AV out to the PRJ in. The devices you are using go from device --> receiver sending both atmos and video (or if you are using 2 HDMI out) then Receiver just sends video out to the PRJ, ur not using PRJ speakers. so in your specific setup (as in mine) atmos should not be affected.
> 
> 
> 
> Your question is kinda "silly"... unless you are using a 55" screen size with your projector lol.
> i mean, you cant really compare 55 to 120... as to quality, the Epson is NOT a native 4k so quality on the TV (high end TV )will be better, that being said with the settings people posted here, the linker and the xb1x it looks pretty damn freaking good.... i use my PRJ for everything, i have 70" in my bedroom i just play some TV before bed lol
> 
> 
> 
> There are no "stupid" questions, feel free to ask more if u still need help.


Thanks again, just to clarify, with Dolby Atmos, for me not to have any issues, hdmi cable to output of receiver, then that end of hdmi to linker, another hdmi cable to output of linker, and that end to inout of projector , is this correct?


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> Ok well now I feel much better about using the Linker. I ordered mine last Saturday and emailed customer support to find out status and it’s shipping Monday. I was under the impression I was getting the full resolution just not the hdr. Finding out I wasn’t getting both already makes me feel like it’s worth it. The sad part is that my Xbox one x went from costing $499.99 to $699.99. Oh well, that’s life.
> 
> Curious though about the PS4 pro. I have that also and play down on the 5040. Am I not getting a full 4k native signal from that or is this issue specifically with the Xbox and how it processes the 4K signal?
> 
> Lastly, is the one X not sending native 4k to the Epson because it can’t handle 10 or 12 bit color at that resolution at 60hz??? Just trying to wrap my head around why the PS4 can output games in 4k but the Xbox can’t.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I hear ya on making the whole Xbox thing more expensive. I am really more pissed at Epson about this whole situation. But since I have about $30k into my theater room over the past 3 years, I had to swallow $200 more to make it right and suck it up. I just couldn't leave it be.

As far as the PS4 Pro, I will test it in a little while. Its been a long day already for me. Breakfast with the girlfriend, worked for a few hours, put my snow tires on my car, then did an acre of leaves. Im eating lunch then locking myself in the theater room! haha

For the X not sending 4K I think its a combination of multiple things. First the Xbox detects your video settings. With no Linker, in the video details, the X says the display cannot do 4K/60 HDR. Because the X sends 4K/60 10 or 12 bit(forget which it is) it just says Eff you, your display doesnt work with this then defaults to 2K and upscales. The Epson can clearly accept 4K/60 8 bit, but the Xbox doesnt know that nor does it send that signal. If the Xbox actually was able to send 4K/60 10bit/12bit to the projector, that leaves the question, would the Epson be able to convert it on its own to 8 bit? We know the Linker can..... We also know the Epson on its own can convert the 4K/60 12 bit signal from Amazon down to 4K/24 HDR 12 bit. It seems like a simple firmware upgrade in either the Epson or Xbox would remedy this issue (some sort of handshake between the 2 so it knows it can convert the signal) then we can toss the Linker right out the window. But, I have a feeling this would NEVER happen. I do not know what it would take to get this issue info to Epson and for them to work with Microsoft, you know 1 of the 2 biggest gaming console companies out there that people buy their products to play it on, you would think they would have thought this through.... It is extremely annoying. Especially for a once $3000 projector.


----------



## mase1981

njbrodeur87 said:


> Thanks again, just to clarify, with Dolby Atmos, for me not to have any issues, hdmi cable to output of receiver, then that end of hdmi to linker, another hdmi cable to output of linker, and that end to inout of projector , is this correct?


All devices to the receiver. One short high speed hdmi cable from your receiver hdmi out into the hdmi in 1 on the linker. Then from the other end of the linker hdmi out long high speed cable into the hdmi 1 of the projector.


----------



## Lilphish

I'm not sure if there is something wrong with my linker, but I'm thinking I may need to return it to Monoprice for a new one. I have attached the screenshots for the setup for each tab (although I realize only a few are used). I have an Xbox One X, Epson 5040UB, and an Onkyo TX-NR646. To simplify the setup and just ensure the linker is working for now, I have the 5040UB to HDMI out, and the Xbox One X to input 1. I'll add the Onkyo to the mix once I feel the linker is working. So last night using firmware .23 I was able to get the xbox one X to come up (all green marks) and I played the insects demo with HDR and it looked good. I tried the Netflix app and then it didn't find a signal and I couldn't get it to come back up. I had heard about the issues with .23 so I then went and put .19a on which I'm using now. Since doing this, I'm not able to get it to sync at all. Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## njbrodeur87

mase1981 said:


> All devices to the receiver. One short high speed hdmi cable from your receiver hdmi out into the hdmi in 1 on the linker. Then from the other end of the linker hdmi out long high speed cable into the hdmi 1 of the projector.



Thanks.

For the settings for the projector, using David hyper vision sdr hdr, using digital cinema, is that what I And most of you guys are using for ps4 pro and Xbox one x with the linker?


----------



## mase1981

njbrodeur87 said:


> Thanks.
> 
> For the settings for the projector, using David hyper vision sdr hdr, using digital cinema, is that what I And most of you guys are using for ps4 pro and Xbox one x?


I have my own settings. I had mine pro calibrated and then modified to my liking.


----------



## njbrodeur87

mase1981 said:


> I have my own settings. I had mine pro calibrated and then modified to my liking.



Ahhh, I just wonder if using David sdr mode / hdr method is a good method or using the hdr mode and adjusting settings from there is better. Mhm.


----------



## mase1981

njbrodeur87 said:


> Ahhh, I just wonder if using David sdr mode / hdr method is a good method or using the hdr mode and adjusting settings from there is better. Mhm.


"beauty is in the eye of the beholder".... Try and modify


----------



## Juiced46

Lilphish said:


> I'm not sure if there is something wrong with my linker, but I'm thinking I may need to return it to Monoprice for a new one. I have attached the screenshots for the setup for each tab (although I realize only a few are used). I have an Xbox One X, Epson 5040UB, and an Onkyo TX-NR646. To simplify the setup and just ensure the linker is working for now, I have the 5040UB to HDMI out, and the Xbox One X to input 1. I'll add the Onkyo to the mix once I feel the linker is working. So last night using firmware .23 I was able to get the xbox one X to come up (all green marks) and I played the insects demo with HDR and it looked good. I tried the Netflix app and then it didn't find a signal and I couldn't get it to come back up. I had heard about the issues with .23 so I then went and put .19a on which I'm using now. Since doing this, I'm not able to get it to sync at all. Am I doing something wrong?


Did you install the correct GUI for your Windows version? Reset the Linker in the GUI. Input the settings per the screenshots and try again to see if it works. It should sink up very fast. Turn off HDMI Link on your projector just in case. 



JewDaddy said:


> Ok well now I feel much better about using the Linker. I ordered mine last Saturday and emailed customer support to find out status and it’s shipping Monday. I was under the impression I was getting the full resolution just not the hdr. Finding out I wasn’t getting both already makes me feel like it’s worth it. The sad part is that my Xbox one x went from costing $499.99 to $699.99. Oh well, that’s life.
> 
> Curious though about the PS4 pro. I have that also and play down on the 5040. Am I not getting a full 4k native signal from that or is this issue specifically with the Xbox and how it processes the 4K signal?
> 
> Lastly, is the one X not sending native 4k to the Epson because it can’t handle 10 or 12 bit color at that resolution at 60hz??? Just trying to wrap my head around why the PS4 can output games in 4k but the Xbox can’t.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok I just got done testing the PS4 Pro. Results were very good. I only have one HDR game, Gran Turismo Sport and it looks fantastic. I am getting 4K/60 8bit HDR BT2020 I however could not get Amazon Prime to work with UHD on the PS4 Pro with or without the Linker. 

I checked inputs of all sources and this is what I found. 

Xbox One X Outputs games @: 4K/60 4:2:2 BT2020 "up to" 12 Bit/Linker converts it to 4K/60 4:2:0 BT2020 8 bit. 
Xbox One X Outputs Amazon Prime @: 4K/60 4:2:2 BT2020 "up to" 12 bit/Linker Converts it to 4K/60 4:2:0 BT2020 8 bit. 
PS4 Pro Outputs games @: 4K/60 4:2:2 BT2020 "up to" 12 bit/Linker Converts to 4:2:0 BT2020 8 bit. 

I even tested it with my Xfinity cable box and it worked great


----------



## njbrodeur87

mase1981 said:


> "beauty is in the eye of the beholder".... Try and modify



Haha so true. Btw for the firmware for linker, on their site the oldest firmware I see is 0.20 not 0.19, am I blind?


----------



## Juiced46

njbrodeur87 said:


> Haha so true. Btw for the firmware for linker, on their site the oldest firmware I see is 0.20 not 0.19, am I blind?


http://www.hdfurylinker.com/download/


----------



## Dominic Chan

njbrodeur87 said:


> Ahhh, I just wonder if using David sdr mode / hdr method is a good method or using the hdr mode and adjusting settings from there is better. Mhm.


Epson's preset HDR tone curves are actually quite close to the standard 1000 nits ST.2084 PQ curve, _if_ you match the diffuse white level. Of course there's roll off at the high end, as the projector cannot produce 1000 nits even on a relatively small screen.
It easy to do if you have a light meter and some test patterns. Just match the 50% HDR luminance to the 100% SDR luminance.


----------



## mase1981

njbrodeur87 said:


> Haha so true. Btw for the firmware for linker, on their site the oldest firmware I see is 0.20 not 0.19, am I blind?


I posted a direct link literally a few posts back.


----------



## Lilphish

Juiced46 said:


> Did you install the correct GUI for your Windows version? Reset the Linker in the GUI. Input the settings per the screenshots and try again to see if it works. It should sink up very fast. Turn off HDMI Link on your projector just in case.
> 
> 
> I'm using GUI 0.19 for driver 4.0.0 as I'm on Windows 10 1709. I reset the linker in the GUI and the input the settings per the screenshots I had. I just get "HDMI 1 No Signal" on the screen. HDMI Link is also turned off on the projector. I'm now using one short high speed HDMI cable from my Onkyo NR646 output into the Linker input 1. Then to Linker hdmi out I'm going to projector with a high speed HDMI cable. I also tried turning off deep color on the Onkyo and that didn't seem to help.


----------



## njbrodeur87

Would the below cable i currently have to my projector still be ok to use with the linker? I heard they have to be a specific spec

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OYT2D8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

if not would this two from mono price be ok?

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1025503&p_id=14474&seq=1&format=2

and 

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024021&p_id=24188&seq=1&format=2


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> Just match the 50% HDR luminance to the 100% SDR luminance.



Sorry not following you. Would you mind explaining further? How exactly would one do this?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## njbrodeur87

Something really interesting. I hooked up my xbox one x to the projector, no linker yet, just to see how it looked. When into settings, expected it to say like everyone on these forums have suggested, that its upscaling because the settings say it wont do 4k natively. Well mine says it will do 4k native in the settings, this is strange, anyone have an explanation for this? I attached picture.

Of course I'm still ordering the linker regardless, cause hdr wont work either way. just though this was interesting


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> Sorry not following you. Would you mind explaining further? How exactly would one do this?


To do a proper calibration, you would need (as a minimum) a colorimeter (such as the x-rite i1D3, ~$200+) and the software (such as HCFR, which is "donation-ware").

I was assuming that you do _not _have these, and are happy with your settings for SDR (non-HDR). With the 5040UB, you would typically be running it at Natural mode, low lamp power, iris closed.
In that case, you can display a white pattern at your standard settings and measure the brightness with what you may have ($20 light meter, camera that can read exposure, etc).
Then:
- switch the projector manually into HDR1 mode (which would make things much dimmer)
- switch to High Lamp Power
- switch to Bright Cinema mode 
- display a 50% white (actually grey) pattern, and hopefully you can get that to be close to the same brightness as the previous reading. Adjust the iris, or even put the projector in the dynamic mode (which is brightest but less accurate).

The patterns can be downloaded here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html


----------



## SALadder22FF

ed3120 said:


> This setup looks insanely cool. Which specific product did you use for the LED lights?


Thx. 

When I ordered my Screen Innovations Black Diamond I got the optional LED backlights and I'm glad I did. That's what everyone notices then they say I didn't know projectors could look that good. 

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> To do a proper calibration, you would need (as a minimum) a colorimeter (such as the x-rite i1D3, ~$200+) and the software (such as HCFR, which is "donation-ware").
> 
> 
> 
> I was assuming that you do _not _have these, and are happy with your settings for SDR (non-HDR). With the 5040UB, you would typically be running it at Natural mode, low lamp power, iris closed.
> 
> In that case, you can display a white pattern at your standard settings and measure the brightness with what you may have ($20 light meter, camera that can read exposure, etc).
> 
> Then:
> 
> - switch the projector manually into HDR1 mode (which would make things much dimmer)
> 
> - switch to High Lamp Power
> 
> - switch to Bright Cinema mode
> 
> - display a 50% white (actually grey) pattern, and hopefully you can get that to be close to the same brightness as the previous reading. Adjust the iris, or even put the projector in the dynamic mode (which is brightest but less accurate).
> 
> 
> 
> The patterns can be downloaded here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html




Thanks. I am not the original poster. I do have all the things you listed and have already done an SDR calibration. I haven't yet done the HDR calibration but plan to (I have all the patterns). Was just trying to understand your point. I think it would be tough to get that level of brightness with the 5040 but understand your idea...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## urcha

So I have a bit of a problem with the HD Fury linker. When I have it in between my xb1x and my Yamaha RX-V681BL, I can get all green check marks like we are all craving, but I can't get audio to pass through bitstream with Dolby Atmos.

When I position the linker between the projector and the AVR, Atmos works but for whatever reason, I lose all the check marks gained by the linker. Why would positioning the linker after the AVR all of a sudden cause the xb1x to not recognize the linker settings? Any thoughts? I'm completely stumped.


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> I do have all the things you listed and have already done an SDR calibration. I haven't yet done the HDR calibration but plan to (I have all the patterns). Was just trying to understand your point. I think it would be tough to get that level of brightness with the 5040 but understand your idea...


With HDR1 I'm getting 40 nits for the diffuse white, and 150 nits for the peak white. That still gives a pretty good HDR effect.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> With HDR1 I'm getting 40 nits for the diffuse white, and 150 nits for the peak white. That still gives a pretty good HDR effect.




That's great. I didn't realize you had a 5040 (thought you had a JVC). Not sure my eyes can deal with 150 nits with the 120 screen. 

Have you done SDR and HDR calibrations? Did you do a custom gamma curve for HDR? If so, what did you target for the tone mapping?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> That's great. I didn't realize you had a 5040 (thought you had a JVC). Not sure my eyes can deal with 150 nits with the 120 screen.


In HDR only a small percentage of the image area exceeds diffuse white. It’s primarily speculative highlights etc. The average scene brightness is about the same as SDR.



> Have you done SDR and HDR calibrations? Did you do a custom gamma curve for HDR? If so, what did you target for the tone


I have done SDR calibration on both Epson and JVC projectors. For HDR I’ve done measurements on the Epson, but not the actual calibration other than colour temperature. That was when I found out that the Epson presets are quite close to the standard PQ curve, up to the diffuse white level (but starts to gradually roll off beyond that.


----------



## Geraldius

njbrodeur87 said:


> Something really interesting. I hooked up my xbox one x to the projector, no linker yet, just to see how it looked. When into settings, expected it to say like everyone on these forums have suggested, that its upscaling because the settings say it wont do 4k natively. Well mine says it will do 4k native in the settings, this is strange, anyone have an explanation for this? I attached picture.
> 
> Of course I'm still ordering the linker regardless, cause hdr wont work either way. just though this was interesting


A new xbox software update was just released that fixed the problem. You must have gotten the update. It also fixes the washed out blacks problem.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> In HDR only a small percentage of the image area exceeds diffuse white. It’s primarily speculative highlights etc. The average scene brightness is about the same as SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done SDR calibration on both Epson and JVC projectors. For HDR I’ve done measurements on the Epson, but not the actual calibration other than colour temperature. That was when I found out that the Epson presets are quite close to the standard PQ curve, up to the diffuse white level (but starts to gradually roll off beyond that.



I see. But I'm sure you agree that the approach you suggest above has the disadvantage of not getting the wider color gamut and/or making the colors inaccurate. 

Might it be better to push the luminance through the custom gamma settings?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## njbrodeur87

Geraldius said:


> A new xbox software update was just released that fixed the problem. You must have gotten the update. It also fixes the washed out blacks problem.


wow that's awesome so all that's missing is HDR, but full 4k is already happening on the X without a linker. Make sense cause i get beta updates.

HDR is still a big deal so gonna buy the linker anyway, since my ps4 pro is same, can only do 4k or hdr not both at once


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> I see. But I'm sure you agree that the approach you suggest above has the disadvantage of not getting the wider color gamut and/or making the colors inaccurate.
> Might it be better to push the luminance through the custom gamma settings?


My approach is to measure the Epson preset HDR gamma curves to see which one most closely matches the standard.
I don't know why you think custom gamma settings can produce wider colour gamut. If anything, it would be the opposite, if one is not careful or experienced.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> My approach is to measure the Epson preset HDR gamma curves to see which one most closely matches the standard.
> 
> I don't know why you think custom gamma settings can produce wider colour gamut. If anything, it would be the opposite, if one is not careful or experienced.




That's not what I meant. Above you suggested putting it into bright cinema or dynamic. Only the digital cinema mode supports the wide color gamut of HDR. So while you are making it brighter you are not getting the wide color gamut with this approach. That's why Dave Harper uses digital cinema and pushes the gamma curve to its limits (and also puts the 5040 into SDR).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> That's not what I meant. Above you suggested putting it into bright cinema or dynamic. Only the digital cinema mode supports the wide color gamut of HDR. So while you are making it brighter you are not getting the wide color gamut with this approach. That's why Dave Harper uses digital cinema and pushes the gamma curve to its limits (and also puts the 5040 into SDR).


I will make some measurements to evaluate the trade-offs between brightness and colour gamut.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> I will make some measurements to compare the trade-offs between brightness and colour gamut.




That would be great. I've read arguments for both sides. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

njbrodeur87 said:


> Something really interesting. I hooked up my xbox one x to the projector, no linker yet, just to see how it looked. When into settings, expected it to say like everyone on these forums have suggested, that its upscaling because the settings say it wont do 4k natively. Well mine says it will do 4k native in the settings, this is strange, anyone have an explanation for this? I attached picture.
> 
> Of course I'm still ordering the linker regardless, cause hdr wont work either way. just though this was interesting


These are normal X1X setting details for the Epson 5040/6040, prior to the Linker install/config.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Juiced46

njbrodeur87 said:


> Something really interesting. I hooked up my xbox one x to the projector, no linker yet, just to see how it looked. When into settings, expected it to say like everyone on these forums have suggested, that its upscaling because the settings say it wont do 4k natively. Well mine says it will do 4k native in the settings, this is strange, anyone have an explanation for this? I attached picture.
> 
> Of course I'm still ordering the linker regardless, cause hdr wont work either way. just though this was interesting


That is interesting, mine definitely did not say it supports native 4K when I fired it up on day one. I will check to see if I got an update.


----------



## mase1981

urcha said:


> So I have a bit of a problem with the HD Fury linker. When I have it in between my xb1x and my Yamaha RX-V681BL, I can get all green check marks like we are all craving, but I can't get audio to pass through bitstream with Dolby Atmos.
> 
> When I position the linker between the projector and the AVR, Atmos works but for whatever reason, I lose all the check marks gained by the linker. Why would positioning the linker after the AVR all of a sudden cause the xb1x to not recognize the linker settings? Any thoughts? I'm completely stumped.


Upload your linker settings.... Also would be good to reset your linker, install 19a firmware and re do the settings. 
also position it from avr short 6ft cable to linker, then linker long cable to prj (high speed cables)


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> Did you install the correct GUI for your Windows version? Reset the Linker in the GUI. Input the settings per the screenshots and try again to see if it works. It should sink up very fast. Turn off HDMI Link on your projector just in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I just got done testing the PS4 Pro. Results were very good. I only have one HDR game, Gran Turismo Sport and it looks fantastic. I am getting 4K/60 8bit HDR BT2020 I however could not get Amazon Prime to work with UHD on the PS4 Pro with or without the Linker.
> 
> 
> 
> I checked inputs of all sources and this is what I found.
> 
> 
> 
> Xbox One X Outputs games @: 4K/60 4:2:2 BT2020 "up to" 12 Bit/Linker converts it to 4K/60 4:2:0 BT2020 8 bit.
> 
> Xbox One X Outputs Amazon Prime @: 4K/60 4:2:2 BT2020 "up to" 12 bit/Linker Converts it to 4K/60 4:2:0 BT2020 8 bit.
> 
> PS4 Pro Outputs games @: 4K/60 4:2:2 BT2020 "up to" 12 bit/Linker Converts to 4:2:0 BT2020 8 bit.
> 
> 
> 
> I even tested it with my Xfinity cable box and it worked great




That’s awesome. Thanks for checking on that for me bro. I feel your pain about yesterday. Just got back in from out of town and immediately started doing yard work and cleaning house so I had zero time for anything else. 

So I had a question about the difference between how this projector handles 4K between the pro and one x. We’ve established that for now, the one x needs a Linker for native 4K. But does the pro need the Linker to get native 4K? I was under the impression that it doesn’t but you do need the Linker if you want 4K and HDR. Is that correct? If so, why is the pro able to do native 4K without any issues on the projector but the one x doesn’t?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## njbrodeur87

njbrodeur87 said:


> Would the below cable i currently have to my projector still be ok to use with the linker? I heard they have to be a specific spec
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OYT2D8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> if not would this two from mono price be ok?
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1025503&p_id=14474&seq=1&format=2
> 
> and
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024021&p_id=24188&seq=1&format=2



Can someone if possible confirm the above, so I can order the linker and if I need to add these to my order or not?


----------



## mase1981

njbrodeur87 said:


> Can someone if possible confirm the above, so I can order the linker and if I need to add these to my order or not?


im using this with no issue from my yamaha (xbox 1 x, phillips 4k player) to mu 6040ub
http://a.co/4zoHLRn


----------



## Azekecse

njbrodeur87 said:


> Can someone if possible confirm the above, so I can order the linker and if I need to add these to my order or not?


I've read on this forum that the Monoprice High Speed cables passed all the appropriate testing for 18Gbs HDMI cables, the only cable to do so. Cabling could be your weakest link, so you want to mitigate that issue. YMMV.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## njbrodeur87

Azekecse said:


> I've read on this forum that the Monoprice High Speed cables passed all the appropriate testing for 18Gbs HDMI cables, the only cable to do so. Cabling could be your weakest link, so you want to mitigate that issue. YMMV.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


So with the one I’m currently using even though it’s 4K but it’s only 10gbs instead of 18 I’ll run into issues with linker basically?


----------



## njbrodeur87

So I’m trying ps4 pro with 1080p hdr. Looking at final fintasy. Anyone find hdr makes the characters skin and mountains etc look orange? I’m using the below settings with I’m pretty sure is what most use, David hdr sdr settings, am I missing anything?

Color mode digital cinema
Brightness 46
Contrast 100
Color saturation 80
Tiny 50
Sharpness default
Color temp default
Image enchantment on
Power consumption high
Auto iris high speed

Gamma 0 -14 -24 -26-27 -28 16 31

Everything else also default

Just wondering is thus is how it should look, maybe not use to it, horizon environment also a little orange when suns out to


----------



## Juiced46

njbrodeur87 said:


> So I’m trying ps4 pro with 1080p hdr. Looking at final fintasy. Anyone find hdr makes the characters skin and mountains etc look orange? I’m using the below settings with I’m pretty sure is what most use, David hdr sdr settings, am I missing anything?
> 
> Color mode digital cinema
> Brightness 46
> Contrast 100
> Color saturation 80
> Tiny 50
> Sharpness default
> Color temp default
> Image enchantment on
> Power consumption high
> Auto iris high speed
> 
> Gamma 0 -14 -24 -26-27 -28 16 31
> 
> Everything else also default
> 
> Just wondering is thus is how it should look, maybe not use to it, horizon environment also a little orange when suns out to


Change Color temp and Skin tone.



JewDaddy said:


> So I had a question about the difference between how this projector handles 4K between the pro and one x. We’ve established that for now, the one x needs a Linker for native 4K. But does the pro need the Linker to get native 4K? I was under the impression that it doesn’t but you do need the Linker if you want 4K and HDR. Is that correct? If so, why is the pro able to do native 4K without any issues on the projector but the one x doesn’t?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I cannot find any literature on how the PS4 does it. Xbox states that it will upscale to 4K, I cannot find that info for PS4. If I remove the Linker and shut off HDR in the PS4, my projector info shows 4K I am just not sure if that is upscaled or not. 

If you look a few posts back, it looks like the X since a recent update does 4K native without the Linker. When I first booted up my X on day one, I got 3 check marks in the video details and it says it will upscale 4K. Now I have 4 green check marks (with no linker) and it says I can do native 4K but no HDR. 

The weird thing is, I tried it and I still do not know if its native. The reason why is, Xbox states if you set your video settings to 1080P and you play a 4K game and you have a 4K device it will automatically switch it to 4K. I tried this, it stays at 1080P. If I set it to 4K UHD, I get 4K in the info screen, however I am not sure if that is upscaled or not as there is no way to tell. But the video details menu has changed, that is for sure and now says it supports 4K native with the 5040.


----------



## SALadder22FF

john barlow said:


> Swapped out my first lamp with my 5040UB yesterday, the results were stunning. When my Panasonic PJ's were in need of replacement, you knew it. The Epson 5040's degradation was so gradual, as it is, I netted about double the normal operating life of the Panny lamp and that's very pleasing to me. The best part is the fact I Picked up the Epson replacement for $87. on Amazon makes this ordeal that much sweeter. I'm good to go now with very minimal financial pain. Love it! First disc in the Oppo 203 was my current reference UHD disc, Guardians of the Galaxy vol. 2. Amazing and dazzling with a brand new bulb. The detail and depth almost make the 4K disc that I got in the exclusive steelbook that I bought from BB appear to be almost 3D. IN fact, the 3D PQ is inferior to the 4K disc. I'm betting it's just a matter of a few years and there will be consumer displays that handle 3d sans glasses.


Hey which bulb did you buy off Amazon? I'm in the market for a new one

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## john barlow

njbrodeur87 said:


> Ahhh, I just wonder if using David sdr mode / hdr method is a good method or using the hdr mode and adjusting settings from there is better. Mhm.


 They're your eyes and ears, trust them.


----------



## jwhn

njbrodeur87 said:


> So I’m trying ps4 pro with 1080p hdr. Looking at final fintasy. Anyone find hdr makes the characters skin and mountains etc look orange? I’m using the below settings with I’m pretty sure is what most use, David hdr sdr settings, am I missing anything?
> 
> 
> 
> Color mode digital cinema
> 
> Brightness 46
> 
> Contrast 100
> 
> Color saturation 80
> 
> Tiny 50
> 
> Sharpness default
> 
> Color temp default
> 
> Image enchantment on
> 
> Power consumption high
> 
> Auto iris high speed
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma 0 -14 -24 -26-27 -28 16 31
> 
> 
> 
> Everything else also default
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering is thus is how it should look, maybe not use to it, horizon environment also a little orange when suns out to




What your missing is the calibration that Dave started with before arriving at his settings, something he has emphasized many times.

It's not really possible to get accurate colors (meaning the colors the content creator intended) by copying others settings. A decent meter is not that expensive and calibration software is free...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jpgfontes

njbrodeur87 said:


> So I’m trying ps4 pro with 1080p hdr. Looking at final fintasy. Anyone find hdr makes the characters skin and mountains etc look orange? I’m using the below settings with I’m pretty sure is what most use, David hdr sdr settings, am I missing anything?
> 
> Color mode digital cinema
> Brightness 46
> Contrast 100
> Color saturation 80
> Tiny 50
> Sharpness default
> Color temp default
> Image enchantment on
> Power consumption high
> Auto iris high speed
> 
> Gamma 0 -14 -24 -26-27 -28 16 31
> 
> Everything else also default
> 
> Just wondering is thus is how it should look, maybe not use to it, horizon environment also a little orange when suns out to


I had the same impression with Fifa 18 demo. Wasn't so impressed with HDR and PS4. I've been wanting to test another HDR content, but due to Epson's 4k60hz limitation and not having a UHD bluray player still couldn't do it..


----------



## migsta

Just got the Xbox One X. It's pretty sweet but what's the deal with HRR10 & gaming. Right now, the Xbox says my 6040UB does not support HDR10 with gaming yet I get HDR playback from the Xbox when I pop in a Bluray UHD disc. Anyway to get it going?


----------



## john barlow

SALadder22FF said:


> Hey which bulb did you buy off Amazon? I'm in the market for a new one
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


 I bought a genuine Epson replacement for the Epson 5040UB. I was lucky enough after checking prices on line for about four weeks to come across one for $87. I don't think it's proper for standard markups for bulbs. It's as if your projector is never quite paid for when the bill approaches $300. every six months or so. Most folks aren't as avid as I am about cinema and would probably not need to replace the lamp for a couple of years or so. Nevertheless, gouging for replacement lamps is just plain insulting to consumers. It's as if the Corporation is constantly finding a need to pick your pocket after you already paid a handsome price to own one of these wonderful inventions.


----------



## Juiced46

john barlow said:


> I bought a genuine Epson replacement for the Epson 5040UB. I was lucky enough after checking prices on line for about four weeks to come across one for $87. I don't think it's proper for standard markups for bulbs. It's as if your projector is never quite paid for when the bill approaches $300. every six months or so. Most folks aren't as avid as I am about cinema and would probably not need to replace the lamp for a couple of years or so. Nevertheless, gouging for replacement lamps is just plain insulting to consumers. It's as if the Corporation is constantly finding a need to pick your pocket after you already paid a handsome price to own one of these wonderful inventions.


Can you please post a picture of the box your bulb came in?


----------



## SALadder22FF

john barlow said:


> I bought a genuine Epson replacement for the Epson 5040UB. I was lucky enough after checking prices on line for about four weeks to come across one for $87. I don't think it's proper for standard markups for bulbs. It's as if your projector is never quite paid for when the bill approaches $300. every six months or so. Most folks aren't as avid as I am about cinema and would probably not need to replace the lamp for a couple of years or so. Nevertheless, gouging for replacement lamps is just plain insulting to consumers. It's as if the Corporation is constantly finding a need to pick your pocket after you already paid a handsome price to own one of these wonderful inventions.


Yah I saw all the prices close to $300 and finally found one for $105. I went with that one. I use my projector for everything...daily TV watching, hours of gaming and of course watching movies so I've got about 2600 hours on it very quickly. I have a pro calibrator for sound and video coming in Dec. and he suggested with that many to get a new one. $100 isn't too much to pay for a better experience. I haven't noticed major loss of quality or brightness, but I definitely know it's not AS bright as it once was. I want the calibration done with optimal settings so ordered the new one.


----------



## Juiced46

migsta said:


> Just got the Xbox One X. It's pretty sweet but what's the deal with HRR10 & gaming. Right now, the Xbox says my 6040UB does not support HDR10 with gaming yet I get HDR playback from the Xbox when I pop in a Bluray UHD disc. Anyway to get it going?


Longstory short, you cannot get 4K/HDR gaming. You need a Linker to make it work. Its a limitation within the Epson. Read the past few pages and there is tons of info about it...


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> Yah I saw all the prices close to $300 and finally found one for $105. I went with that one. I use my projector for everything...daily TV watching, hours of gaming and of course watching movies so I've got about 2600 hours on it very quickly. I have a pro calibrator for sound and video coming in Dec. and he suggested with that many to get a new one. $100 isn't too much to pay for a better experience. I haven't noticed major loss of quality or brightness, but I definitely know it's not AS bright as it once was. I want the calibration done with optimal settings so ordered the new one.


 Do you have a link to the bulb you purchased?


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> Do you have a link to the bulb you purchased?


http://www.consutronix.com/7M3595.html

around 120 after shipping and tax


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> http://www.consutronix.com/7M3595.html
> 
> around 120 after shipping and tax


Thanks, can you confirm this is an OEM lamp? Can you post a picture of the box?


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> Thanks, can you confirm this is an OEM lamp? Can you post a picture of the box?


After it arrives? Yes I'll post one. What would be the alternative to OEM?


----------



## migsta

Juiced46 said:


> Longstory short, you cannot get 4K/HDR gaming. You need a Linker to make it work. Its a limitation within the Epson. Read the past few pages and there is tons of info about it...


Thanks, I should come here to read before buying it. Damn, that sucks. Don't understand why we need another device when the Epson is supposed to do HDR. And, adding another device is more coin and more frustration cause it's not meant to work that way. Oh, well - at least I have a 2 week return policy.


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> After it arrives? Yes I'll post one. What would be the alternative to OEM?


Sorry, I thought you already had it in hand. There are many aftermarket bulbs out there. Typically the cheaper bulbs are not genuine OEM Epson bulbs. Most of the cheap ones use an OEM housing and they put their own bulb in it and sell it cheap. They will put in their listing the OEM part #. Usually the sellers that sell Genuine OEM Epson bulbs will state it in their listing. If they do not, it is most likely aftermarket. You can tell by the box it comes in which is why I asked. The guy that bought it for $87 on Amazon continues to not tell us where he got it, or a picture of the box, because most likely it is not OEM. We have been down this road with him before, he claims he got this great deal and it is OEM. But will not tell us the seller or post a picture, because it is aftermarket. 



migsta said:


> Thanks, I should come here to read before buying it. Damn, that sucks. Don't understand why we need another device when the Epson is supposed to do HDR. And, adding another device is more coin and more frustration cause it's not meant to work that way. Oh, well - at least I have a 2 week return policy.


It sucks, alot of us are a bit upset about this situation.Especially since the way Epson advertises it. Yes, it does HDR, but only with Blu Rays. Gaming, it will not. There are alot of variables, I suggest doing some reading.


----------



## drhankz

SALadder22FF said:


> I've got about 2600 hours on it very quickly.


You are just getting the lamp warm with 2600 hours on it.


----------



## hnupe

*Dolby Vision*

How does everyone think the 5040ub will handle Dolby Vision? Will we notice a difference, etc?

Thoughts everyone?


----------



## jwhn

hnupe said:


> How does everyone think the 5040ub will handle Dolby Vision? Will we notice a difference, etc?
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts everyone?




It does not support Dolby Vision.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> That would be great. I've read arguments for both sides.


I made some quick measurements and decided to stay with Bright Cinema mode. Digital Cinema is simply too dark for HDR.
Here are the luminance measurements (in nits) in the High Lamp mode for my 120" screen. 

Bright Cinema (Iris -5): Diffuse white 27 nits using Epson HDR1 setting, Peak white 103 nits.
Digital Cinema (Iris -0): Diffuse white 18 nits using HarperVision SDR setting, Peak white 62 nits.
Note that the standard HDR diffuse white level is supposed to be at 100 nits; for projectors I would aim for 50 nits, consistent with the accepted SDR practice.

While it's true that the Digital Cinema mode provides wider gamut, the Bright Cinema mode actually tracks the BT.2020/P3 saturation quite well until the gamut is exceeded. Here are the Saturation Sweep delta-E:

Bright Cinema (25, 50, 75, 100% saturation), uncalibrated (Factory Default)
Red: 1.1, 2.1, 2.0, 4.2
Green 1.1, 2.3, 2.5, 2.1, 5.7
Blue 3.8, 3.6, 4.6, 3.4
These should get better with calibration, so I don't consider the gamut to be a stumbling block.

Digital Cinema (25, 50, 75, 100% saturation), HarperVision settings
Red: 6.2, 6.1, 5.7, 7.2
Green: 2.8, 3.8, 4.6, 4.1
Blue: 8.3, 9.3, 10.4, 12.2


----------



## ana_moo_ana

drhankz said:


> You are just getting the lamp warm with 2600 hours on it.




so after how many hours u suppose to change the lamp? going by the rated numbers it wouldn’t be too dime by then?


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> I made some quick measurements and decided to stay with Bright Cinema mode. Digital Cinema is simply too dark for HDR.
> 
> Here are the luminance measurements (in nits) in the High Lamp mode for my 120" screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Bright Cinema (Iris -5): Diffuse white 27 nits using Epson HDR1 setting, Peak white 103 nits.
> 
> Digital Cinema (Iris -0): Diffuse white 18 nits using HarperVision SDR setting, Peak white 62 nits.
> 
> Note that the standard HDR diffuse white level is supposed to be at 100 nits; for projectors I would aim for 50 nits, consistent with the accepted SDR practice.
> 
> 
> 
> While it's true that the Digital Cinema mode provides wider gamut, the Bright Cinema mode actually tracks the BT.2020/P3 saturation quite well until the gamut is exceeded. Here are the Saturation Sweep delta-E:
> 
> 
> 
> Bright Cinema (25, 50, 75, 100% saturation), uncalibrated (Factory Default)
> 
> Red: 1.1, 2.1, 2.0, 4.2
> 
> Green 1.1, 2.3, 2.5, 2.1, 5.7
> 
> Blue 3.8, 3.6, 4.6, 3.4
> 
> These should get better with calibration, so I don't consider the gamut to be a stumbling block.
> 
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema (25, 50, 75, 100% saturation), HarperVision settings
> 
> Red: 6.2, 6.1, 5.7, 7.2
> 
> Green: 2.8, 3.8, 4.6, 4.1
> 
> Blue: 8.3, 9.3, 10.4, 12.2




Thanks so much for doing this, Dominic. Very interesting.

One question - what gamma setting are you using for bright cinema? One of the default settings ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> Thanks so much for doing this, Dominic. Very interesting.
> 
> One question - what gamma setting are you using for bright cinema? One of the default


I use the default HDR1. The others (HDR2, 3, 4) are similar but progressively darker. Only useful for very small screens.
Epson’s gamma controls don’t have sufficient granularity for creating good HDR EOTF (gamma curve) from scratch. Luckily the presets are very good, to my eyes and according to the measurements.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> I use the default HDR1. The others (HDR2, 3, 4) are similar but progressively darker. Only useful for very small screens.




That's right you said that. I will try that. I am finding it a bit ironic that after all the discussion on this thread about HDR that has made it a giant, unwieldy thread, a professional calibrator is saying, just use the default gamma setting. ; )


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> I use the default HDR1. The others (HDR2, 3, 4) are similar but progressively darker. Only useful for very small screens.
> 
> Epson’s gamma controls don’t have sufficient granularity for creating good HDR EOTF (gamma curve) from scratch. Luckily the presets are very good, to my eyes and according to the measurements.




Wait HDR1 is the dynamic range setting but that is different from the gamma setting. What gamma setting are you using?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hoogs

njbrodeur87 said:


> Something really interesting. I hooked up my xbox one x to the projector, no linker yet, just to see how it looked. When into settings, expected it to say like everyone on these forums have suggested, that its upscaling because the settings say it wont do 4k natively. Well mine says it will do 4k native in the settings, this is strange, anyone have an explanation for this? I attached picture.
> 
> Of course I'm still ordering the linker regardless, cause hdr wont work either way. just though this was interesting


This is GREAT news, I personally don't really care for HDR anyway because to me it's too dim. Thanks for sharing, I thought some of the games looked better. I am 100% happy with my 5040UB now


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> Wait HDR1 is the dynamic range setting but that is different from the gamma setting. What gamma setting are you using?


The Dynamic Range defines the overall EOTF which is very different between HDR and SDR. The gamma setting only fine-tunes it.
Dave Harper uses the SDR dynamic range and a drastic custom gamma curve to emulate the HDR EOTF. I find his curve lifts mid shadows; that's probably why he reduces Brightness to 46, but that makes the dark shadows too dark. The JVC projector users also use this approach, but they have far more adjustment points (256) for gamma.
I use the default HDR1, unmodified by gamma (i.e., Gamma =0) although I may try fine-tuning it a bit, once the upcoming version of HCFR is available.


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> a professional calibrator is saying...


Who? Not me. I'm just a hobbyist using HCFR.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> The Dynamic Range defines the overall EOTF which is very different between HDR and SDR. The gamma setting only fine-tunes it.
> 
> Dave Harper uses the SDR dynamic range and a drastic custom gamma curve to emulate the HDR EOTF. I find his curve lifts mid shadows; that's probably why he reduces Brightness to 46, but that makes the dark shadows too dark. The JVC projector users also use this approach, but they have far more adjustment points (256) for gamma.
> 
> I use the default HDR1, unmodified by gamma (i.e., Gamma =0) although I may try fine-tuning it a bit, once the upcoming version of HCFR is available.




Okay thanks. In this case you must be doing something to increase brightness because HDR1 in bright cinema with default settings is far too dark with my set up. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> Who? Not me. I'm just a hobbyist using HCFR.




Yeah ok. I've seen your website and some of your videos. By the way, are you based in Vancouver?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> Yeah ok. I've seen your website and some of your videos. By the way, are you based in Vancouver


You may be thinking of Michael Chen, professional calibrator in Calgary, Alberta. I’m a calibration hobbyist in Mississauga, Ontario.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> You may be thinking of Michael Chen, professional calibrator in Calgary, Alberta. I’m a calibration hobbyist in Mississauga, Ontario.




Ah gotcha. You are right that I may be confusing you two Canadians. ; ) 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Umar_Naseer

Hey all - I'm trying to find HarperVision settings for the 5040. Can someone please send me a picture of their 5040's Harper settings? That or send me the settings written out. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## njbrodeur87

What’s everyone opinion on the best 3D scene / movie they have seen on this projector? Same with the best 4K blue ray, which I assume might be planet earth 2 ... thoughts?

Also just to share, I said a couple pages back, using David sdr hdr settings, things looked orange and not right in hdr on os4 pro . I know calibrations are still recommended but I went to the site below and used their new 4K hdr settings which is digital cinema with their custom settings, not sdr, they leave it on auto which sets it usually to hdr2 on it’s own I hear. Well using the site below, hdr and 4K is looking great for me. I retested all games and hdr looks very good, so does the color. Just thought I share link. Scroll to bottom pictures, and they have slides. Towards the end are the 4K slides... they also show settings for ISF brite Rm, though I’m not sure what those setting are used as idk what ISF stands for, maybe someone here does. Been using 4K settings for ps4 pro, Xbox x, and 4K bluerays.

https://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-projector-calibration-settings/


----------



## drhankz

ana_moo_ana said:


> so after how many hours u suppose to change the lamp? going by the rated numbers it wouldn’t be too dime by then?


How often do you change the headlamps in your car?


----------



## viperlogic

Going to give HDR calibration a go now that I have SDR dialled in.

Is the current thinking set projector to Bright Cinema, HDR1, 2020, iris off, high lamp, do the usual black and white clipping patterns, then, in my case, using HCFR set color space to 2020/P3 and gamma calculation to SMPTE 2084 HDR, then do the grayscale, then gamma (if needed as Dominic reports HDR1 tracks quite well), then do CMS with the HCFR casting SDR patterns or put the patterns on a USB/Disk to be ran from my UHD player (Panny UB400)?


----------



## Azekecse

njbrodeur87 said:


> So with the one I’m currently using even though it’s 4K but it’s only 10gbs instead of 18 I’ll run into issues with linker basically?


I can't speak to that scenario, but I tried a lower end cable and it caused video synch issues. I ended up buying a higher end cable and everything worked as expected. However I still get a 10 sec delay when switching video signals, but it sustains the signal once locked in.

Hope this helps. Maybe others will chime in with their Linker experiences.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## njbrodeur87

viperlogic said:


> Going to give HDR calibration a go now that I have SDR dialled in.
> 
> Is the current thinking set projector to Bright Cinema, HDR1, 2020, iris off, high lamp, do the usual black and white clipping patterns, then, in my case, using HCFR set color space to 2020/P3 and gamma calculation to SMPTE 2084 HDR, then do the grayscale, then gamma (if needed as Dominic reports HDR1 tracks quite well), then do CMS with the HCFR casting SDR patterns or put the patterns on a USB/Disk to be ran from my UHD player (Panny UB400)?


No expert here but im currently using Digital Cinema, Auto Iris High Speed, Power consumption high, color temp 2 skin tone 4, image present mode 2, and dynamic range set to Auto ( Bright ). With those settings and tweaks to gamma, color temp and RGBCMY, almost every movie in hdr and ps4 pro game has looked really good, and im happy with it. Only game i noticed is Infamous 2 which is at the start of the game its really dark and hard to see, but ima almost sure thats the games design. All other games like fifa, horizon zero dawn, rachet and clank, and uncharted all looked really good to me.

However:

Alot of others use Harpervision settings on this projector set as: Bright cinema, auto iris high speed, power consumption high, dymanic range SDR, hdmi video range normal, color space bt 2020, image processing fine. These settings along with custom gamma Settings back on post 7220 are i believe what most people use.


----------



## mikecoscia

So it's only been 8 months since I bought the projector and I finally tested out some 3D movies. Of course, I have the cross-talk issue. Rogue One is almost unwatchable and I can see ghosting in most the 3D movies I own. Epson is sending me a replacement, but it's a refurb, should I be worried? Anyone else receive a refurb on a warranty claim?


----------



## muad'dib

mikecoscia said:


> So it's only been 8 months since I bought the projector and I finally tested out some 3D movies. Of course, I have the cross-talk issue. Rogue One is almost unwatchable and I can see ghosting in most the 3D movies I own. Epson is sending me a replacement, but it's a refurb, should I be worried? Anyone else receive a refurb on a warranty claim?


Did you update to newest firmware...
Fixed my ghosting issues...

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

njbrodeur87 said:


> No expert here but im currently using Digital Cinema, Auto Iris High Speed, Power consumption high, color temp 2 skin tone 4, image present mode 2, and dynamic range set to Auto ( Bright ). With those settings and tweaks to gamma, color temp and RGBCMY, almost every movie in hdr and ps4 pro game has looked really good, and im happy with it. Only game i noticed is Infamous 2 which is at the start of the game its really dark and hard to see, but ima almost sure thats the games design. All other games like fifa, horizon zero dawn, rachet and clank, and uncharted all looked really good to me.
> 
> However:
> 
> Alot of others use Harpervision settings on this projector set as: Bright cinema, auto iris high speed, power consumption high, dymanic range SDR, hdmi video range normal, color space bt 2020, image processing fine. These settings along with custom gamma Settings back on post 7220 are i believe what most people use.


One correction - Dave's settings use digital cinema vs. bright cinema...


----------



## migsta

*HD Linker*



Juiced46 said:


> Longstory short, you cannot get 4K/HDR gaming. You need a Linker to make it work. Its a limitation within the Epson. Read the past few pages and there is tons of info about it...


 Thanks again.


Anything else that the Linker can do besides help me do HDR on games?


----------



## njbrodeur87

jwhn said:


> One correction - Dave's settings use digital cinema vs. bright cinema...


i thought david second picture on post 7220 which states its harpervision it shows him using bright cinema?


----------



## jwhn

viperlogic said:


> Going to give HDR calibration a go now that I have SDR dialled in.
> 
> Is the current thinking set projector to Bright Cinema, HDR1, 2020, iris off, high lamp, do the usual black and white clipping patterns, then, in my case, using HCFR set color space to 2020/P3 and gamma calculation to SMPTE 2084 HDR, then do the grayscale, then gamma (if needed as Dominic reports HDR1 tracks quite well), then do CMS with the HCFR casting SDR patterns or put the patterns on a USB/Disk to be ran from my UHD player (Panny UB400)?


Based on what I've read from the experts in these forums, HDR calibration follows a similar process as SDR with a couple of exceptions.

*Gamma tone mapping *
Given that no display or projector can meet the 2084 standard, each manufacturer has developed their own tone mapping (the way they try to interpret the standard). We could even think of Dave's, Oledurt, HDR1 with default gamma, etc. as different tone mappings. 

There really is no consensus on the right approach. You can read all about it in the display calibration threads. Here is a recent post from the developer of Chromapure that talks about how he plans to tackle this issue with the next version of his software. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...cial-chromapure-3-thread-42.html#post54979630

*CMS* 
Standard approach is to use 50%/50% HDR patterns to calibrate against the bt.2020 target (not P3). So this is a bit different than the SDR approach. 

And of course you should be using HDR patterns such as the ones Masciola developed and not the standard SDR patterns.

You may already know all this. ; ) 


But I'm glad to see someone else trying to tackle this. I've long wanted to understand the grey scale measurements of Dave and Oledurt's settings because I think that is more useful than their settings given they have different set ups. Dave has a very high end screen, for example, that I don't have.


----------



## jwhn

njbrodeur87 said:


> i thought david second picture on post 7220 which states its harpervision it shows him using bright cinema?


He does have a bright cinema setting also, but the one that uses SDR mode is digital cinema. There is a sheet that someone put together that has all the settings from people on this forum.


----------



## mikecoscia

muad'dib said:


> Did you update to newest firmware...
> Fixed my ghosting issues...
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


Yup, running v1.10.


----------



## njbrodeur87

jwhn said:


> He does have a bright cinema setting also, but the one that uses SDR mode is digital cinema. There is a sheet that someone put together that has all the settings from people on this forum.



Does anyone have this spreadsheet handy? Would be much easier


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> *Gamma tone mapping *
> Given that no display or projector can meet the 2084 standard, each manufacturer has developed their own tone mapping (the way they try to interpret the standard). We could even think of Dave's, Oledurt, HDR1 with default gamma, etc. as different tone mappings.
> 
> There really is no consensus on the right approach. You can read all about it in the display calibration threads. Here is a recent post from the developer of Chromapure that talks about how he plans to tackle this issue with the next version of his software.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...cial-chromapure-3-thread-42.html#post54979630


Further down in the same thread, zoyd pointed out that there _is_ a standard on HDR tone mapping, viz. BT.2390:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...cial-chromapure-3-thread-43.html#post55088196


----------



## djb61230

njbrodeur87 said:


> Does anyone have this spreadsheet handy? Would be much easier


Here is a PDF from last Month.

http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> Further down in the same thread, zoyd pointed out that there _is_ a standard on HDR tone mapping, viz. BT.2390:
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...cial-chromapure-3-thread-43.html#post55088196


I wonder how many manufacturers are using it?


----------



## njbrodeur87

djb61230 said:


> Here is a PDF from last Month.
> 
> http://www.3ms.com/theater/50406040settings.pdf


thankyou


----------



## Lilphish

I started the RMA process for my Linker through Monoprice but that looks like it may be a long process for a replacement.  In the meantime, I keep trying different things to ensure it isn't something I'm doing wrong. The last thing I want is to have these same issues when I get a replacement. So with all the recommended settings using .19a, I hooked it up directly to the XB1 and 5040. If I power cycle the XB1 after the projector is on, it will occasionally sync up and I'll get an image on screen. If I look at the settings, all of the 4k options have a green check mark. When I try going into a game or Netflix, it loses connection again and it just shows HD1 No input on the screen. This is using various cables including the HDMI cable that comes with the XB1. Does this sound like a bad Linker, or a settings issue?


----------



## mase1981

Lilphish said:


> I started the RMA process for my Linker through Monoprice but that looks like it may be a long process for a replacement.  In the meantime, I keep trying different things to ensure it isn't something I'm doing wrong. The last thing I want is to have these same issues when I get a replacement. So with all the recommended settings using .19a, I hooked it up directly to the XB1 and 5040. If I power cycle the XB1 after the projector is on, it will occasionally sync up and I'll get an image on screen. If I look at the settings, all of the 4k options have a green check mark. When I try going into a game or Netflix, it loses connection again and it just shows HD1 No input on the screen. This is using various cables including the HDMI cable that comes with the XB1. Does this sound like a bad Linker, or a settings issue?


i think i saw u post several times u had an issue, no? just pm me man, lets get u going. dont think ur linker is bad .


----------



## john barlow

mikecoscia said:


> So it's only been 8 months since I bought the projector and I finally tested out some 3D movies. Of course, I have the cross-talk issue. Rogue One is almost unwatchable and I can see ghosting in most the 3D movies I own. Epson is sending me a replacement, but it's a refurb, should I be worried? Anyone else receive a refurb on a warranty claim?


 The choice of 3D glasses matters with this PJ. Aside from the expensive Epson glasses. The Valueview, (very fragile because two pairs equal two broken pairs for me. I am using rubber bands for now until I replace them. The other glasses that my better half likes are the Samsung glasses sold on Amazon. They have worked well and are built to last.


----------



## viperlogic

viperlogic said:


> Going to give HDR calibration a go now that I have SDR dialled in.
> 
> Is the current thinking set projector to Bright Cinema, HDR1, 2020, iris off, high lamp, do the usual black and white clipping patterns, then, in my case, using HCFR set color space to 2020/P3 and gamma calculation to SMPTE 2084 HDR, then do the grayscale, then gamma (if needed as Dominic reports HDR1 tracks quite well), then do CMS with the HCFR casting SDR patterns or put the patterns on a USB/Disk to be ran from my UHD player (Panny UB400)?


So with projector set to Bright Cinema, HDR1, 2020, iris off, and high lamp; I'm unable to see any flashing bars when doing contrast unless brightness is set to 2!!! Thats with superwhite on or off. Do I need a HDR pattern for doing contrast and brightness? I wouldn't of taught so.

With above, 100% white is 33 ftl for normal lamp and 44 ftl for high lamp.


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> I wonder how many manufacturers are using it?


The standard’s recommended EOTF can be used during custom calibration, as the projector manufacturers cannot tell what the luminance will be.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> The standard’s recommended EOTF can be used during custom calibration, as the projector manufacturers cannot tell what the luminance will be.


makes sense. Are you able to figure out all the math? The example that Zoyd provided was for a max luminance of 540. But what would the greyscale targets be for max luminance of say 100?


----------



## njbrodeur87

So does anyone know of a few good scenes in 3D across movies to show off to friends? That really showcases it?


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> makes sense. Are you able to figure out all the math? The example that Zoyd provided was for a max luminance of 540. But what would the greyscale targets be for max luminance of say 100?


No, the math is beyond me. Presumably the next version of HCFR will incorporate support for it.


----------



## mikecoscia

john barlow said:


> The choice of 3D glasses matters with this PJ. Aside from the expensive Epson glasses. The Valueview, (very fragile because two pairs equal two broken pairs for me. I am using rubber bands for now until I replace them. The other glasses that my better half likes are the Samsung glasses sold on Amazon. They have worked well and are built to last.


I am using the Epson glasses, so I don't think that is the cause. The replacement is arriving tomorrow. Going to put it on top of a few boxes and test it out before removing my current unit from its ceiling mount. Hopefully, the refurb doesn't have any issues (i.e. marred casing, scratched lens, etc.)

On a side note, my linker shipped today from monoprice....lol.


----------



## mikecoscia

mase1981 said:


> Upload your linker settings.... Also would be good to reset your linker, install 19a firmware and re do the settings.
> also position it from avr short 6ft cable to linker, then linker long cable to prj (high speed cables)


Is there a reason why the cable has to be 6' and the linker close to the receiver? Couldn't I just go receiver ->25' HDMI->Linker->3' HDMI->Projector ? I can then hide the linker above the projector and it's easy to access if I need to mess with it.


----------



## njbrodeur87

mikecoscia said:


> Is there a reason why the cable has to be 6' and the linker close to the receiver? Couldn't I just go receiver ->25' HDMI->Linker->3' HDMI->Projector ? I can then hide the linker above the projector and it's easy to access if I need to mess with it.


Wondering this to cause I ordered an 8ft with the linker


----------



## Diezzler

Finally figured out why my projector had an internal error. After inspecting the top board, I finally took the under board hardware/rails off, and long an behold a burnt SIL HDMI chip, and what looks to be a burnt eeprom chip.

It is clearly burnt off HDMI input 1, although the connector, and other traces appear well. I'm not sure if this was a random power surge/component failure, or if the heat from the bandwidth these things run caused it to fry, but it looks dead. Epson doesn't release schematics, so it maybe tough to fix, but I've ordered the burnt Sil chip, and have yet to figure out what type of IC the 8 pin burnt chip is. Any idea?
Of course I will check all the traces, and other components in the chain, but hard without schematics. I bought a refurbished projector with a warranty and will use that board to do my comparisons to. 


I'm concerned that if this was not a random failure of a component (none that I could trace) to the power supply, why would it die/burn this bad?

Could this be a result of the heat from maxing out the HDMI input 1 - linked to both Sil chips (Burnt one is SIL9679CNUC)?
Hdmi 2 does not appear to trace to the burnt Sil chip

Just a caution to all of you that are maxing the bandwidth/HDR/etc and pushing the projector to its max.


----------



## WynsWrld98

njbrodeur87 said:


> So does anyone know of a few good scenes in 3D across movies to show off to friends? That really showcases it?


Top for me is IMAX Under the Sea 3D Bluray, go to the potato cod scene, freeze frame on the potato cod and let viewer's eyes adjust. It's the most amazing popout 3D I've ever seen. If anyone has seen any 3D scene that can touch this please post as I'd be interested.


----------



## viperlogic

Evan201 said:


> Alright Guys. So I dialed in some settings from using the R. Masciola HDR10 suite. Keep in mind I'm using a Cinegrey 5d screen so my settings will be nothing like yours if you're using a white screen, but hot damn! I'm done. I found exactly the settings I like for all my HDR movies here. The Masciola suite is clutch for black, white, and color clipping settings. After that's done you'll be stunned!!!


What exact patterns do you use for black, white, grayscale, and colour etc as looking at this suite there are loads!


----------



## dastodavid

Hi everyone! Im new to projectors and to this site. I have a few questions. my first projector was a viewsonic 2878. an ok entry level projector. I originally bought it as a T.V. replacement. I ended up giving that to a family member. Next I've recently bought the epson 2150. the image is way better then the viewsonic. I still have the epson now and I love it so far. Im projecting to a 110" screen with elite screens cinegrey 3d material. everything's fine but, I cant seem to take my eyes off the epson 5040ub or 4000. Now Im projecting in a relatively small space. The rooms only about 13x12 feet and more of a "man cave" than a home theater. white sealing, and grey walls. light is controlled for the most part. 

questions. 
1: Is it worth it to upgrade from the epson 2150 to the 5040ub or 4000?
2: Can the 5040ub/4000 be used as a everyday TV or PC monitor?
3: does the 5040/4000 have a way to zoom or stretch 21:9 video. (I Hate black bars). Rather have a distorted 16:9 video. 
4: would anyone recommend a different Projector for someone with my setup or will the 5040ub/4000 do just fine. 
5: whats the difference between the 5040ub and the 4000?


----------



## njbrodeur87

WynsWrld98 said:


> Top for me is IMAX Under the Sea 3D Bluray, go to the potato cod scene, freeze frame on the potato cod and let viewer's eyes adjust. It's the most amazing popout 3D I've ever seen. If anyone has seen any 3D scene that can touch this please post as I'd be interested.


Awesome to hear, gonna be buying this today, any idea exactly what scene number this is or time stamp? So I can find it easily?

I’d love to hear others mention there’s as well.


----------



## viperlogic

njbrodeur87 said:


> Awesome to hear, gonna be buying this today, any idea exactly what scene number this is or time stamp? So I can find it easily?
> 
> I’d love to hear others mention there’s as well.


I use Turtles Tale to demo 3D


----------



## njbrodeur87

viperlogic said:


> I use Turtles Tale to demo 3D


Any good scenes to point to? And is that the first one or second one?


----------



## schamber

mikecoscia said:


> I am using the Epson glasses, so I don't think that is the cause. The replacement is arriving tomorrow. Going to put it on top of a few boxes and test it out before removing my current unit from its ceiling mount. Hopefully, the refurb doesn't have any issues (i.e. marred casing, scratched lens, etc.)
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note, my linker shipped today from monoprice....lol.




Been through this same issue and saw the same things on Rogue One. Epson shipped a new unit and it was worse. 
My issue was the Blu-ray player. Switched to the Sony X800 and it was solved. Before switching players, I swapped glasses, 3 different cables, and bypassing the AVR. The cables and glasses did make a difference in clarity, but the ghosting was solved through the new player. 
With tweaking the Epson settings, it’s great! My family says it’s better than the theater. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Epson 6040UB; Marantz AV8801; B&K THX 30; Sony UBP-X800; Snell Signature C7 speakers; Snell ICS 24 sub; Stewart 1.1 110"


----------



## schamber

viperlogic said:


> I use Turtles Tale to demo 3D




I’ll need to try these. The one I use is the beginning of Dr. Strange. Now I have the projector dialed in, the chase through London and the buildings shifting is amazing. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Epson 6040UB; Marantz AV8801; B&K THX 30; Sony UBP-X800; Snell Signature C7 speakers; Snell ICS 24 sub; Stewart 1.1 110"


----------



## mase1981

mikecoscia said:


> Is there a reason why the cable has to be 6' and the linker close to the receiver? Couldn't I just go receiver ->25' HDMI->Linker->3' HDMI->Projector ? I can then hide the linker above the projector and it's easy to access if I need to mess with it.





njbrodeur87 said:


> Wondering this to cause I ordered an 8ft with the linker


Based on HDFURY rep on this forum: 


HDfury said:


> Best place is more likely here:
> 
> SOURCES > DENON > 25 ft > Linker > 6ft > Epson. use Linker quick preset to select the EPSON profil depending if you are connecting wired or wireless.


----------



## welldun

ht guy said:


> here you go:


Can we make this a sticky at the beginning of the thread? It would get a lot of the new users up and running a lot faster.


----------



## viperlogic

ht guy said:


> here you go:


I don't see Oledurts latest HDR Bright Cinema settings from this post http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-335.html#post54712474 in that doc which he said supersedes all other settings


----------



## Juiced46

Diezzler said:


> Finally figured out why my projector had an internal error. After inspecting the top board, I finally took the under board hardware/rails off, and long an behold a burnt SIL HDMI chip, and what looks to be a burnt eeprom chip.
> 
> It is clearly burnt off HDMI input 1, although the connector, and other traces appear well. I'm not sure if this was a random power surge/component failure, or if the heat from the bandwidth these things run caused it to fry, but it looks dead. Epson doesn't release schematics, so it maybe tough to fix, but I've ordered the burnt Sil chip, and have yet to figure out what type of IC the 8 pin burnt chip is. Any idea?
> Of course I will check all the traces, and other components in the chain, but hard without schematics. I bought a refurbished projector with a warranty and will use that board to do my comparisons to.
> 
> 
> I'm concerned that if this was not a random failure of a component (none that I could trace) to the power supply, why would it die/burn this bad?
> 
> Could this be a result of the heat from maxing out the HDMI input 1 - linked to both Sil chips (Burnt one is SIL9679CNUC)?
> Hdmi 2 does not appear to trace to the burnt Sil chip
> 
> Just a caution to all of you that are maxing the bandwidth/HDR/etc and pushing the projector to its max.


Nice find, and that sucks. Are you already out of warranty or did you not buy it from an authorized dealer or something?


----------



## mikecoscia

schamber said:


> Been through this same issue and saw the same things on Rogue One. Epson shipped a new unit and it was worse.
> My issue was the Blu-ray player. Switched to the Sony X800 and it was solved. Before switching players, I swapped glasses, 3 different cables, and bypassing the AVR. The cables and glasses did make a difference in clarity, but the ghosting was solved through the new player.
> With tweaking the Epson settings, it’s great! My family says it’s better than the theater.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> Epson 6040UB; Marantz AV8801; B&K THX 30; Sony UBP-X800; Snell Signature C7 speakers; Snell ICS 24 sub; Stewart 1.1 110"


I picked up a Panny UB900 over the summer thinking it would be the player least likely to have issues. What player were you using before the x800. I would hate to pick up a new player, but it is only $150, and I would much rather switch the player then swap out my projector for a refurb. My refurb arrives tonight, going to play around with it this weekend and see if there is any difference in crosstalk. If not, I'm sending the refurb back.


----------



## schamber

mikecoscia said:


> I picked up a Panny UB900 over the summer thinking it would be the player least likely to have issues. What player were you using before the x800. I would hate to pick up a new player, but it is only $150, and I would much rather switch the player then swap out my projector for a refurb. My refurb arrives tonight, going to play around with it this weekend and see if there is any difference in crosstalk. If not, I'm sending the refurb back.




It was an older Samsung J7500. The UB900 should be fine, so it does imply a projector issue. 
One of the senior tech support at Epson is tracking the players and these issues. Believe his name is Courtney. Seems like it was Oledurt who posted an email from him and his contact info in one the early posts on this forum. He was one of the most helpful techs and very knowledgeable on these issues. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Epson 6040UB; Marantz AV8801; B&K THX 30; Sony UBP-X800; Snell Signature C7 speakers; Snell ICS 24 sub; Stewart 1.1 110"


----------



## ht guy

viperlogic said:


> I don't see Oledurts latest HDR Bright Cinema settings from this post https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-335.html#post54712474 in that doc which he said supersedes all other settings


Part of the issue may be that there are multiple versions here. I will try to delete the older ones and point to this post.

Here is the latest version (the last one incorrectly indicated oledurt's v.2 Bright Cinema setting used 50 for brightness instead of 40.)

Most importantly, a big shout out and thank you to oledurt, Dave Harper and all the other users who have posted their settings here.


----------



## viperlogic

Spent some time last night trying to calibrate HDR on my Epson 5040 using Ryan Masciola's HDR patterns, HCFR 3.4.5 (Rec2020 and SMPTE 2084) and i1d3 meter. Projector set to Bright Cinema, HDR1 (aka Auto bright), medium lamp. Did brightness, contrast and 2 point grayscale all of which seems to be ok. What should the gamma curve be like for our projectors, should it track closely to SMPTE 2084?










I then did RGBYCM using his 50/50 pattern. Was able to get all 50/50 reference points bar Green. That is miles off. Also can be seen that the other green and cyan points are miles off also. What could be causing this or is it limitation of the projector for HDR?










I then played some 4K HDR content and was far from impressed. There was no "pop". Looked like just a normal 1080p SDR image to be honest!

I then loaded in Oledurts Bright Cinema and Digital Cinema HDR settings to see what the 4K HDR content looked like, and it was pretty much the same, no real pop, with digital cinema being darker. In checking both the info on the projector it is receiving 2020 HDR content and UHD player (Panasonic UB400) is sending 2020 HDR.

Post calibration and reviewing the HCFR chc, I see that 80, 90 and 100 grayscale have the same Y of 34.5 ftl (118 nits). Do I need to adjust contrast to resolve that?


----------



## JewDaddy

schamber said:


> I’ll need to try these. The one I use is the beginning of Dr. Strange. Now I have the projector dialed in, the chase through London and the buildings shifting is amazing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> Epson 6040UB; Marantz AV8801; B&K THX 30; Sony UBP-X800; Snell Signature C7 speakers; Snell ICS 24 sub; Stewart 1.1 110"




What setting are you using when watching 3D?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Can anyone confirm yet if the Xbox One X is doing native 4K and not upscaled 4K without the Linker since Microsoft released a new update? Not sure if I want to open the Linker I purchased. I’m not real concerned about HDR with gaming because I think it actually dims the color and overall brightness. I bought the Linker only because I thought that was the only way to get native 4K with the One X


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## migsta

I just bought the HD Fury Linker primarily to get HDR on the Xbox One X. Some questions:

Is there only one model of the HDFury Linker which I just need to worry about getting the firmware updated on (i.e. there is no Version 2 of the HD Fury Linker for example)? Do I take it to the latest firmware ASAP.

When I hook it up, since I already have a CAT 6 with Binary 540 - do I - connect the HDFury Linker after the 540. I other words, the HDMI from the Binary 540, going into the AVM60, now goes into the HD Fury Linker and then the HD Fury Linker's HDMI goes into the AVM60 or?

What can I expect from this device?


----------



## seplant

muad'dib said:


> Did you update to newest firmware...
> Fixed my ghosting issues...
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk


Newest firmware made no difference with ghosting on my 6040. Be sure to try your 3D content over multiple viewing sessions. I have found that ghosting varies even on the same titles between viewings. You may change a setting and think the ghosting has gone away, but try the same scene in that same movie the next day, and the ghosting is back.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> Do you have a link to the bulb you purchased?


Turns out the price was too good to be true. I couldn't get tracking for the replacement bulb and then received this email today.









Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

Looks like PCnation is the best bet for 234.99 with no tax and free expedited shipping

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## jpgfontes

viperlogic said:


> Post calibration and reviewing the HCFR chc, I see that 80, 90 and 100 grayscale have the same Y of 34.5 ftl (118 nits). Do I need to adjust contrast to resolve that?


Hey Viper! What kind of screen do you use? How do you get 34.5 ftl/118 nits out of this projector?
Bright cinema only outputs 61 nits with my gray screen (it should be a 0.8/0.9 gain screen - lamp on medium)...
Do you use the projector in a dark room? I use mine with Eco mode in a dark room and get 16 ftl with Natural on SDR. Isn't 35 ftl too much for a dark room?
I would like to hear you impressions...

Thanks!


----------



## jwhn

viperlogic said:


> Spent some time last night trying to calibrate HDR on my Epson 5040 using Ryan Masciola's HDR patterns, HCFR 3.4.5 (Rec2020 and SMPTE 2084) and i1d3 meter. Projector set to Bright Cinema, HDR1 (aka Auto bright), medium lamp. Did brightness, contrast and 2 point grayscale all of which seems to be ok. What should the gamma curve be like for our projectors, should it track closely to SMPTE 2084?
> 
> I then did RGBYCM using his 50/50 pattern. Was able to get all 50/50 reference points bar Green. That is miles off. Also can be seen that the other green and cyan points are miles off also. What could be causing this or is it limitation of the projector for HDR?
> 
> I then played some 4K HDR content and was far from impressed. There was no "pop". Looked like just a normal 1080p SDR image to be honest!
> 
> I then loaded in Oledurts Bright Cinema and Digital Cinema HDR settings to see what the 4K HDR content looked like, and it was pretty much the same, no real pop, with digital cinema being darker. In checking both the info on the projector it is receiving 2020 HDR content and UHD player (Panasonic UB400) is sending 2020 HDR.
> 
> Post calibration and reviewing the HCFR chc, I see that 80, 90 and 100 grayscale have the same Y of 34.5 ftl (118 nits). Do I need to adjust contrast to resolve that?


I've only done some initial experimenting with HDR calibration using Ryan's disks, but here are a few thoughts that may help:

There is apparently a standard for doing the tone mapping. See the exchanges in this forum including some data that Zoyd provided. The impact or "pop" that you will get from HDR is correlated with the total luminance you can get because that is what creates the headroom for the HDR spectral highlights. What luminance are you getting in Bright Cinema? I only get around 75-80 so I have been experimenting with the Dynamic setting where I can get from 135-165 (depending on the lamp setting). Initial results are quite good, even with the default gamma setting. Getting accurate colors is the main challenge with the dynamic mode but after playing with the color temp settings, it doesn't look bad at all.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...cial-chromapure-3-thread-43.html#post55090392


For the CMS, what settings are you using in HCFR to ensure it is expecting 50/50 patterns? I found this a bit confusing so you might want to verify that. 

If you happen to have a Netflix account, check out Cosmos Laundromat and watch it in both HDR and SDR. This short video is good for seeing the HDR effect (assuming you are working with enough luminance per the point above).

I was also just watching a new show called Godless that has some amazing HDR scenes such as people walking through a door with a bright sun blazing behind them. It also has some great cloud shots where you can see whether you are crushing the whites if you adjust the contrast during these scenes.

HDR on a projector is not going to match a display that puts out 540 nits, but if you increase the luminance you can get a noticeable effect. Just try putting the projector in dynamic mode and watching some of these scenes and I think you will start to see the level of HDR effect that you can expect.

Hope this helps.


----------



## john barlow

SALadder22FF said:


> Turns out the price was too good to be true. I couldn't get tracking for the replacement bulb and then received this email today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


 I seem to remember when Epson was announced the 5040UB, the rep said the replacement lamp would be around $150. I don't mind 150. but, almost $300 is B.S. and the consumer takes it up the a-- again. I'd be interested to know what the mark up is on these bulbs. I can't imagine that producing these lamps calls for such a hefty price tag on a replacement lamp. Epson should sell these at cost plus tax and shipping. They already got nearly 3K from me. Why should enthusiasts have to keep paying for the projector over and over again? What a racket.


----------



## Dominic Chan

john barlow said:


> I seem to remember when Epson was announced the 5040UB, the rep said the replacement lamp would be around $150. I don't mind 150. but, almost $300 is B.S. and the consumer takes it up the a-- again. I'd be interested to know what the mark up is on these bulbs. I can't imagine that producing these lamps calls for such a hefty price tag on a replacement lamp. Epson should sell these at cost plus tax and shipping. They already got nearly 3K from me. Why should enthusiasts have to keep paying for the projector over and over again? What a racket.


I bought a used bulb on the auction site for $70 (Best Offer on $79). I can't "prove" that the bulb was only used for 100 hours as the seller claimed, but according to my light meter it has the same brightness as my other bulb (which has less than 100 hours).


----------



## schamber

seplant said:


> Newest firmware made no difference with ghosting on my 6040. Be sure to try your 3D content over multiple viewing sessions. I have found that ghosting varies even on the same titles between viewings. You may change a setting and think the ghosting has gone away, but try the same scene in that same movie the next day, and the ghosting is back.




Here are the screenshots of my settings. I’ll get them translated to text at some point.




















































Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Epson 6040UB; Marantz AV8801; B&K THX 30; Sony UBP-X800; Snell Signature C7 speakers; Snell ICS 24 sub; Stewart 1.1 110"


----------



## cngdxd

SALadder22FF said:


> Turns out the price was too good to be true. I couldn't get tracking for the replacement bulb and then received this email today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


The lamp about $120 at China!









通过我的 MHA-AL00 上的 Tapatalk发言


----------



## viperlogic

jpgfontes said:


> Hey Viper! What kind of screen do you use? How do you get 34.5 ftl/118 nits out of this projector?
> Bright cinema only outputs 61 nits with my gray screen (it should be a 0.8/0.9 gain screen - lamp on medium)...
> Do you use the projector in a dark room? I use mine with Eco mode in a dark room and get 16 ftl with Natural on SDR. Isn't 35 ftl too much for a dark room?
> I would like to hear you impressions...
> 
> Thanks!


I have a Draper ReAct3 104" screen. Projector is approx 3.3m from screen.

I will have to remeasure but from memory for SDR using Natural on eco I'm getting 25 ftl's. It's being used in a living room with no ambient light but has reflective walls, ceiling and floor.

Regards getting 35 ftl, that is bright cinema on medium lamp. I get 44ftl on high lamp but its just too loud for my liking thou I have yet to calibrate for HDR so may just need that output.


----------



## viperlogic

jwhn said:


> I've only done some initial experimenting with HDR calibration using Ryan's disks, but here are a few thoughts that may help:
> 
> There is apparently a standard for doing the tone mapping. See the exchanges in this forum including some data that Zoyd provided. The impact or "pop" that you will get from HDR is correlated with the total luminance you can get because that is what creates the headroom for the HDR spectral highlights. What luminance are you getting in Bright Cinema? I only get around 75-80 so I have been experimenting with the Dynamic setting where I can get from 135-165 (depending on the lamp setting). Initial results are quite good, even with the default gamma setting. Getting accurate colors is the main challenge with the dynamic mode but after playing with the color temp settings, it doesn't look bad at all.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...cial-chromapure-3-thread-43.html#post55090392


In BC on med lamp im getting a luminance/Y of 118 nits (35 ftl). In high lamp im getting 150 nits (44 ftl)



> For the CMS, what settings are you using in HCFR to ensure it is expecting 50/50 patterns? I found this a bit confusing so you might want to verify that.


I'm using Masciola's 50/50 pattern and in HCFR I have it set to Rec2020 colour space and SMPTE 2084 HDR gamma. It's my understanding that HCFR in this config is expecting 50% luminance colour patterns though I stand to be corrected but these are under the HCFR workflow folder in his suite. So when dialling in CMS against the CIE diagram I use Masciolas 50/50 patterns for each of the 6 colours by manually selecting the 50% sat colume and doing a manual continuous measure. When I was previously doing SDR I used 75/75 patterns provided by Ted and set colourspace in HCFR to Rec709 75/75.



> If you happen to have a Netflix account, check out Cosmos Laundromat and watch it in both HDR and SDR. This short video is good for seeing the HDR effect (assuming you are working with enough luminance per the point above).
> 
> I was also just watching a new show called Godless that has some amazing HDR scenes such as people walking through a door with a bright sun blazing behind them. It also has some great cloud shots where you can see whether you are crushing the whites if you adjust the contrast during these scenes.
> 
> HDR on a projector is not going to match a display that puts out 540 nits, but if you increase the luminance you can get a noticeable effect. Just try putting the projector in dynamic mode and watching some of these scenes and I think you will start to see the level of HDR effect that you can expect.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Unfortunately don't have Netflix. I do have the Revenant and Planet Earth 2 arriving tomorrow. Borrowing Suicide Squad from a friend but don't find it a good example of HDR. I will download some HDR clips this eve and try them. But open to what scenes to use in Revenant or Planet Earth or even demo clips online.


----------



## jwhn

viperlogic said:


> In BC on med lamp im getting a luminance/Y of 118 nits (35 ftl). In high lamp im getting 150 nits (44 ftl)
> 
> I'm using Masciola's 50/50 pattern and in HCFR I have it set to Rec2020 colour space and SMPTE 2084 HDR gamma. It's my understanding that HCFR in this config is expecting 50% luminance colour patterns though I stand to be corrected but these are under the HCFR workflow folder in his suite. So when dialling in CMS against the CIE diagram I use Masciolas 50/50 patterns for each of the 6 colours by manually selecting the 50% sat colume and doing a manual continuous measure. When I was previously doing SDR I used 75/75 patterns provided by Ted and set colourspace in HCFR to Rec709 75/75.
> 
> 
> Unfortunately don't have Netflix. I do have the Revenant and Planet Earth 2 arriving tomorrow. Borrowing Suicide Squad from a friend but don't find it a good example of HDR. I will download some HDR clips this eve and try them. But open to what scenes to use in Revenant or Planet Earth or even demo clips online.


That's great luminance for BC - I assume its due to your closer distance to the screen. Or maybe my lamp needs replacing already. ; ) 

For the CMS calibration, Dominic confirmed that your approach is fine. Not sure why your colors are so off. I tried calibrating them last night using the same approach and got them very close. You might upload your HCFR file so one of the experts here can take a look.

For the Revenant, there is a scene after the first battle where a guy walks through a door with the sun shining through very brightly. That is a good scene to see the HDR effect. If you are not satisfied with the "pop" then you may need run in high lamp mode or run in dynamic mode where you won't need high lamp. I was able to get dynamic mode to ~6500 color temp with only a minor green skew in some parts of the grey scale.


----------



## john barlow

cngdxd said:


> The lamp about $120 at China!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 通过我的 MHA-AL00 上的 Tapatalk发言


 China? Is this lamp a knockoff?


----------



## john barlow

viperlogic said:


> In BC on med lamp im getting a luminance/Y of 118 nits (35 ftl). In high lamp im getting 150 nits (44 ftl)
> 
> I'm using Masciola's 50/50 pattern and in HCFR I have it set to Rec2020 colour space and SMPTE 2084 HDR gamma. It's my understanding that HCFR in this config is expecting 50% luminance colour patterns though I stand to be corrected but these are under the HCFR workflow folder in his suite. So when dialling in CMS against the CIE diagram I use Masciolas 50/50 patterns for each of the 6 colours by manually selecting the 50% sat colume and doing a manual continuous measure. When I was previously doing SDR I used 75/75 patterns provided by Ted and set colourspace in HCFR to Rec709 75/75.
> 
> Unfortunately don't have Netflix. I do have the Revenant and Planet Earth 2 arriving tomorrow. Borrowing Suicide Squad from a friend but don't find it a good example of HDR. I will download some HDR clips this eve and try them. But open to what scenes to use in Revenant or Planet Earth or even demo clips online.


Planet Earth ll will knock your socks off!


----------



## WynsWrld98

john barlow said:


> I seem to remember when Epson was announced the 5040UB, the rep said the replacement lamp would be around $150. I don't mind 150. but, almost $300 is B.S. and the consumer takes it up the a-- again. I'd be interested to know what the mark up is on these bulbs. I can't imagine that producing these lamps calls for such a hefty price tag on a replacement lamp. Epson should sell these at cost plus tax and shipping. They already got nearly 3K from me. Why should enthusiasts have to keep paying for the projector over and over again? What a racket.


I agree would be nice if priced lower but compare price of Epson lamps to JVC lamps


----------



## The_Forth_Man

john barlow said:


> I seem to remember when Epson was announced the 5040UB, the rep said the replacement lamp would be around $150. I don't mind 150. but, almost $300 is B.S. and the consumer takes it up the a-- again. I'd be interested to know what the mark up is on these bulbs. I can't imagine that producing these lamps calls for such a hefty price tag on a replacement lamp. Epson should sell these at cost plus tax and shipping. They already got nearly 3K from me. Why should enthusiasts have to keep paying for the projector over and over again? What a racket.





cngdxd said:


> The lamp about $120 at China!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 通过我的 MHA-AL00 上的 Tapatalk发言





john barlow said:


> China? Is this lamp a knockoff?



No If you look at what was posted it's the Epson china mobile site so lamp is 120$ (might be plus applicable taxes) 

Just looked in France the lamp is 132 EU (taxes included and they have like 20% taxes) so roughly 156 USD
Checked the Canadian Web site and no price listed.... Weird


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> For the CMS calibration, Dominic confirmed that your approach is fine. Not sure why your colors are so off. I tried calibrating them last night using the same approach and got them very close. You might upload your HCFR file so one of the experts here can take a look.


I haven't actually calibrated the colours, although I've measured the colours with the default CMS settings and they seem "reasonable".
If someone has the HDR blu-ray pattern disc, it would be interesting to confirm the consistency between the disc and the internal patterns.


----------



## mikecoscia

Happy Thanksgiving everyone! So I got my refurb in yesterday and had some time to play with it this last night and this morning. The refurb came in retail packaging and looked brand new. There no marks on the case or scratches on the lens. It also came with a remote, but no power cord or instructions. I placed it on top a few boxes directly under my current projector, lined everything up and popped in Rogue One 3D. Crosstalk was way better, could hardly tell in most scenes. I also noticed that the pixels seemed sharper/more in focus. However, the refurb was sitting dead center of the screen. My existing projector is mounted close to the ceiling and I am using a lot of vertical lens shifting. So, the pixels towards the top of the screen seem sharper than the ones towards the bottom. I assume this is because the LCD panels are not sitting in the center of the lens because of the vertical shift. I could tilt the projector and use keystone, but that presents its own problems. I could also just get a longer pole and mount the projector lower, but than it is kind of in the way. You really don't notice it anyway, unless you are looking at text from a foot or two away. The bigger problem I noticed was the panel alignment was worse than my current projector. On a straight white vertical line, you could clearly see the red pixels to the left. However, at this point it was late and I figured I could just do a panel alignment in the morning. At least the crosstalk issue seemed fixed and I went to bed happy.

Wake up the next morning and popped in Rouge One 3D again for the hell of it, and the crosstalk was back?!? Not as bad as my current projector, but definitely worse than the night before. Which I totally do not understand, nothing changed. I spent all morning messing with the settings and I was able to just about eliminate it from most scenes by setting the projector to dynamic 3D and popout to 1. However, I could not fix the panel alignment, no matter how much I played with the adjustment settings and it is for that reason alone I am not going to keep the refurb. My current projector's alignment is much better. I also for the hell of it tried the same 3D settings on my current projector and it improved the crosstalk. Still not as good as the refurb, but damn close. Going to call Epson tomorrow and see if I can get ahold of Cortney. Maybe, I'll try swapping it out one more time. I still can't believe how the refurb seemed to work perfect the night before.....ugh.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> I haven't actually calibrated the colours, although I've measured the colours with the default CMS settings and they seem "reasonable".
> If someone has the HDR blu-ray pattern disc, it would be interesting to confirm the consistency between the disc and the internal patterns.


Previously you posted that the default for HCFR rec.2020 was 50% saturation and that the luminance didn't matter because it uses measured white. But it looks like you deleted that post?

If this is the case, I don't think HCFR is calculating the Delta E correctly. It seems to want a higher saturation than 50%. So I'm just using the delta xy and delta luminance. Maybe you will tell me I'm wrong but that seems to be the case. My x and y and luminance are very close to the targets yet I get a huge Delta E error based on the saturation. I was able to get the colors pretty close but not perfect. The green was the most difficult.

I also tried to follow the gamma curve based on the calculations that Zoyd provided but was not able to hit them. I'm not sure the custom gamma settings will allow for hitting those targets but maybe you will have better luck. I ended up just maxing them out in many parts of the greyscale to get as close as possible. The result is the best HDR picture I have gotten so far, but its technically not completely accurate. Looks pretty good though. I'll be curious to see the results you get...


----------



## viperlogic

jwhn said:


> That's great luminance for BC - I assume its due to your closer distance to the screen. Or maybe my lamp needs replacing already. ; )
> 
> For the CMS calibration, Dominic confirmed that your approach is fine. Not sure why your colors are so off. I tried calibrating them last night using the same approach and got them very close. You might upload your HCFR file so one of the experts here can take a look.
> 
> For the Revenant, there is a scene after the first battle where a guy walks through a door with the sun shining through very brightly. That is a good scene to see the HDR effect. If you are not satisfied with the "pop" then you may need run in high lamp mode or run in dynamic mode where you won't need high lamp. I was able to get dynamic mode to ~6500 color temp with only a minor green skew in some parts of the grey scale.


Attached is my HCFR CHC file. 

5040 is in Bright Cinema, medium lamp, super white off, gamma at 0 preset, video range normal, dynamic range HDR1. Dialled in colours using Masciola 50/50 patterns and HCFR set to 2020/P3. CHC has full grayscale and saturation sweeps. Green again miles off the mark 

Luminance is not tracking also from 30% onwards. What do you adjust to get that to track better?

Would you mind sharing your chc also?


----------



## jwhn

viperlogic said:


> Attached is my HCFR CHC file.
> 
> 5040 is in Bright Cinema, medium lamp, super white off, gamma at 0 preset, video range normal, dynamic range HDR1. Dialled in colours using Masciola 50/50 patterns and HCFR set to 2020/P3. CHC has full grayscale and saturation sweeps. Green again miles off the mark
> 
> Luminance is not tracking also from 30% onwards. What do you adjust to get that to track better?
> 
> Would you mind sharing your chc also?


I ended up taking some free measures and messing up my file. I will do it again and then post it. By the way, I think you should be using 2020 and not 2020/P3. Not sure I understand your luminance question but it will not track to the absolute HDR targets that go up to 10,000 nits. You need to make your own targets (this was the link I included with Zoyds calculations). 

I will defer to others such as Dominic who are a lot more knowledgeable that me. Maybe he can take a look for you and provide some guidance.


----------



## viperlogic

jwhn said:


> I ended up taking some free measures and messing up my file. I will do it again and then post it. By the way, I think you should be using 2020 and not 2020/P3. Not sure I understand your luminance question but it will not track to the absolute HDR targets that go up to 10,000 nits. You need to make your own targets (this was the link I included with Zoyds calculations).
> 
> I will defer to others such as Dominic who are a lot more knowledgeable that me. Maybe he can take a look for you and provide some guidance.


I went with 2020/P3 as 2020 is impossible to hit basically (for me at least) whereas P3 in 2020 is more achievable. Again, I could be completely wrong!


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> Previously you posted that the default for HCFR rec.2020 was 50% saturation and that the luminance didn't matter because it uses measured white. But it looks like you deleted that post?


I deleted it as the statement was incorrect. The HCFR default is 50% amplitute, 100% saturation, which is not attainable.


> If this is the case, I don't think HCFR is calculating the Delta E correctly. It seems to want a higher saturation than 50%. So I'm just using the delta xy and delta luminance. Maybe you will tell me I'm wrong but that seems to be the case. My x and y and luminance are very close to the targets yet I get a huge Delta E error based on the saturation. I was able to get the colors pretty close but not perfect. The green was the most difficult.


Are you adjusting the colours to meet 50%/50% of BT2020? I don't see how xyY are close to targets and yet you get huge delta E.



> I also tried to follow the gamma curve based on the calculations that Zoyd provided but was not able to hit them. I'm not sure the custom gamma settings will allow for hitting those targets but maybe you will have better luck. I ended up just maxing them out in many parts of the greyscale to get as close as possible. The result is the best HDR picture I have gotten so far, but its technically not completely accurate. Looks pretty good though. I'll be curious to see the results you get...


As mentioned in the other thread, I would try to hit 50% of the luminance at each point, e.g., 47 nits (rather than 94 nits) at 50% stimulus.


----------



## Dominic Chan

viperlogic said:


> I went with 2020/P3 as 2020 is impossible to hit basically (for me at least) whereas P3 in 2020 is more achievable. Again, I could be completely wrong!


You can use either 2020/P3 or 2020, but it's crucial that the pattern used matches what HCFR "expects". That is automatically guaranteed when using internal patterns, but with external patterns you have to set HCFR accordingly.

I believe Masciola uses 2020, with 50% stimulus and 50% saturation, so you need to know what values of x,y,Y to aim for during calibration.


----------



## prme19

I just noticed a dust blob on my projector tonight. Only visible on a complete black picture. Anybody knows a way to get rid of this? I’ve had my projector for almost 6 months, I’m really hoping I don’t have to exchange it. I’ve already thrown out the box, etc


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys. Got my Linker hooked up and I’m not getting 4K HDR like I had hoped. I followed the instructions on the forums step by step and I’m getting exactly what I did before I hooked the Linker up. Only HDR in 1080P on my PS4 Pro and the same couple green check marks on my One X. The other weird thing is when I try my gaming pc, it shows the native resolution at 1080p. I checked the switches on both sides of the Linker. Both of them are in the middle position as I assume they’re supposed to be. Firmware is 19.0a and I followed the pics exactly. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?

Edit: The only thing I can think might be an issue is my hdmi from the projector. I have a 50ft hdmi from the projector that goes to the Linker and the a 4ft cable from the Linker to my Yamaha Receiver. Here is a link to the 50ft cable I have. I bought it in 2013

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GW25WY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## viperlogic

Dominic Chan said:


> You can use either 2020/P3 or 2020, but it's crucial that the pattern used matches what HCFR "expects". That is automatically guaranteed when using internal patterns, but with external patterns you have to set HCFR accordingly.
> 
> I believe Masciola uses 2020, with 50% stimulus and 50% saturation, so you need to know what values of x,y,Y to aim for during calibration.


Masciola has 2020 and 2020/P3 patterns in the HCFR folder


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> I deleted it as the statement was incorrect. The HCFR default is 50% amplitute, 100% saturation, which is not attainable.
> 
> Are you adjusting the colours to meet 50%/50% of BT2020? I don't see how xyY are close to targets and yet you get huge delta E.
> 
> 
> As mentioned in the other thread, I would try to hit 50% of the luminance at each point, e.g., 47 nits (rather than 94 nits) at 50% stimulus.


Yes, I am targeting 50/50 of BT2020. I think its because Delta E is calculating the error between measured saturation and a target of 100% saturation and not 50%. But I might be wrong. See picture attached. I am dead center in the target for red on the CIE chart and my luminance delta is 0.6%. 

And yes, I am targeting 50% of luminance per the other thread. Still can't hit it at all points of the grey scale. Maybe I need a new bulb.


----------



## viperlogic

jwhn said:


> Yes, I am targeting 50/50 of BT2020. I think its because the Y target is 100% and not 50% and that is what is being used to calculate Delta E. But I might be wrong. See picture attached. I am dead center in the target for red on the CIE chart and my luminance delta is 0.6%.
> 
> And yes, I am targeting 50% of luminance per the other thread. Still can't hit it at all points of the grey scale. Maybe I need a new bulb.


As ye both know I'm very new to this but I believe that in the primaries and secondaries view for the 2020 colour space, that its 50/100 its expecting, of course stand to be corrected. 

When I was doing 50/50 for 2020 or 2020/P3 I went to each individual primary and secondary colour view and clicked the 50% sat column, used a 50/50 pattern and did a free measure and cailbrated the 50% point on the CIE diagram. See my chc file above in post 11838 where this was done


----------



## jwhn

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. Got my Linker hooked up and I’m not getting 4K HDR like I had hoped. I followed the instructions on the forums step by step and I’m getting exactly what I did before I hooked the Linker up. Only HDR in 1080P on my PS4 Pro and the same couple green check marks on my One X. The other weird thing is when I try my gaming pc, it shows the native resolution at 1080p. I checked the switches on both sides of the Linker. Both of them are in the middle position as I assume they’re supposed to be. Firmware is 19.0a and I followed the pics exactly. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?
> 
> Edit: The only thing I can think might be an issue is my hdmi from the projector. I have a 50ft hdmi from the projector that goes to the Linker and the a 4ft cable from the Linker to my Yamaha Receiver. Here is a link to the 50ft cable I have. I bought it in 2013
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GW25WY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


make sure you are using HDMI1 on the projector


----------



## JewDaddy

jwhn said:


> make sure you are using HDMI1 on the projector




I did. In fact, after a process of elimination test, it seems that once I took my receiver out of the equation and went Direct from the projector to the Linker and then to either my PS4 Pro or One X, I was able to get 4K HDR Gaming. I guess that’s good and bad. Good because I know it’s an issue with the receiver, bad because it’s an issue with my receiver. Lol. 

The strange thing is that my Yamaha receiver passes HDR fine watching UHD movies and playing games at 1080p but there’s a definite issue playing games at 4K with HDR. Any suggestions?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

viperlogic said:


> As ye both know I'm very new to this but I believe that in the primaries and secondaries view for the 2020 colour space, that its 50/100 its expecting, of course stand to be corrected.
> 
> When I was doing 50/50 for 2020 or 2020/P3 I went to each individual primary and secondary colour view and clicked the 50% sat column, used a 50/50 pattern and did a free measure and cailbrated the 50% point on the CIE diagram. See my chc file above in post 11838 where this was done


When I look at your file it seems you targeted 100% saturation. For example, 50/50 for red would be x=.5 and y=.326 but your x and y are essentially at the 100% targets. Did you attach the wrong file by chance?


----------



## Migeye

I am sure it has already been mentioned (don't know how to search in a topic).

But is it normal that it sometimes can take up to 2 minutes (sometimes longer, sometimes shorter) before the beamer starts up? Also when this happens the fan blows like crazy.
Sometimes de beamer does this and sometimes not bot mostly it does.

A colleague of me has the same beamer and also experienced this behaviour.

If it is by design, why does the beamer do this?


----------



## viperlogic

jwhn said:


> When I look at your file it seems you targeted 100% saturation. For example, 50/50 for red would be x=.5 and y=.326 but your x and y are essentially at the 100% targets. Did you attach the wrong file by chance?


Weird, looking at its showing essential .5 and .326 for me! I'm using version 3.4.5.1 if that makes any difference.


----------



## Azekecse

Happy Belated Thanksgiving Everyone,

Anyone here update their HDFury Linker f/w to 0.25? I'm running the following config: Peripherals>Marantz 7011>Epson 6040. Any feedback is welcome?

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## JewDaddy

Figured it out! My receiver needed to be on video mode 1 in the advanced setup menu. Once I changed it, 4K HDR on both my PS4 and One X


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NetViper

JewDaddy said:


> Figured it out! My receiver needed to be on video mode 1 in the advanced setup menu. Once I changed it, 4K HDR on both my PS4 and One X
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How does it look compared to before?


----------



## Dominic Chan

viperlogic said:


> Weird, looking at its showing essential .5 and .326 for me! I'm using version 3.4.5.1 if that makes any difference.


You both seem to be quoting the Rec2020/P3 50% saturation targets. For Rec2020 50% saturation, red should be 0.511,0.310; green 0.241,0.563.


----------



## mase1981

JewDaddy said:


> I did. In fact, after a process of elimination test, it seems that once I took my receiver out of the equation and went Direct from the projector to the Linker and then to either my PS4 Pro or One X, I was able to get 4K HDR Gaming. I guess that’s good and bad. Good because I know it’s an issue with the receiver, bad because it’s an issue with my receiver. Lol.
> 
> The strange thing is that my Yamaha receiver passes HDR fine watching UHD movies and playing games at 1080p but there’s a definite issue playing games at 4K with HDR. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Make sure you go on the yamaha to the advanced (hidden) menu and change HDMI option from 2 to 1


----------



## Everdog

I have the 5040UBe that supports 450mhz bandwidth over wireless. 

Is anyone else using one with the HD Fury? From what I can tell it "should" take 600mhz bandwidth and convert it to 450mhz which theoretically would look better than the 300mhz bandwidth of the 5040UB. 

Also, if I try to watch a Netflix HDR 60FPS video what will the HD Fury do? Does it get converted to 24FPS? Does it not work at all?


----------



## JewDaddy

mase1981 said:


> Make sure you go on the yamaha to the advanced (hidden) menu and change HDMI option from 2 to 1




Thanks! Just figured that out. Didn’t realize there was a hidden menu...... Got it working now. The only weird thing still happening is my pc showing the native resolution is 1080p. Any idea what that could be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

NetViper said:


> How does it look compared to before?




Not sure yet. Need to do more testing and fine tune my settings. I will say that I’m not wowed or anything at the moment. I’ll keep you guys posted 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kumar106

Can anyone please suggest me a best Blu ray player which works for for 4K and HDR with 5040UB. Do we still have to go with Phillips orPanasonic or Oppo to watch HDR ?

I already Nvidia shield and old 4kupscale blue ray player , so looking for true 4k player.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> You both seem to be quoting the Rec2020/P3 50% saturation targets. For Rec2020 50% saturation, red should be 0.511,0.310; green 0.241,0.563.




Yes because he is calibrating to 2020/P3.

Viper, I was looking at your primary and secondary view in your file and in that view it is showing the 100% saturation data. You are calibrating at 50/50 right?

I am not even bothering running the sweeps at this stage given I am not able to even get the 50-50 accurate. I think it will be a quasi calibration for HDR in my case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Kumar106 said:


> Can anyone please suggest me a best Blue ray player which works for for 4K and HDR with 5040UB. Do we still have to go with Panasonic or Oppo ?
> 
> I already Nvidia shield and old 4kupscale blue ray player , so looking for true 4k player.


I bought and tested the Samsung k8500, samsung m8500, m9500, Sony ubd-800x for UHD playback and Apple tv 4k and Roku Ultra for streaming. I tested all those things for a month. 

Well it depends on what your looking for I would've liked a one stop solution and hoped that the Samsung would meet my requirements.


The M9500 and M8500 where cast out really fast because they didnt support 3d and that was on my list.
The K8500 isn't bad at all and can be found on sale. Sadly the apps where not all that I was hoping for.
Plex not being available on it was a big miss for me I do have a big streaming library witch is really simple for the family.

The sony is built like a tank it's simple and really does a great job load time is also super fast and if you look only at 4k uhh playback it was my favorite. It's also on sale for black friday here in canada for 200 cad at best buy. You may be able to order it online depending where you are in the world.

I ended up sending everything back but the ATV 4k witch was the best streamer for me and buying back the sony for less than a month ago. Also bought the PS4 pro since I couldn't pass the black friday.

Know debating if I should try the Xbox one s for 4k playback and send the sony ubd back or wait a year for the one x on the next black friday and be happy.

Solely for 4k uhd Bluray in my book at 200 CAD the sony wins hands down.

my 2 cts.

Chris

EDIT: Just saw that its at 149usd on best buy.com


----------



## Brajesh

Hi all, hoping to get some advice on nVidia Shield & 5040 with regards to 4K & HDR. I've searched this thread & see people are struggling with this, but didn't see what the best workarounds may be.

With Shield, when I force its resolution to [email protected] or 24, I'm able to choose & enable BT2020 option, which allows HDR to work properly with Amazon, Netflix & Kodi. However, this screws up apps that render in 720p or 1080p/60, including Playstation Vue. To make these work properly, I need to switch back to 1080p/59.94 or 4K/59.94, which in turn means no HDR in Amazon, Netflix & Kodi. Ugh!

It seems Shield can't handle automatic refresh rate switching between 23.976/24 4K BT2020 & 1080p or 4K 59.94/60 BT709. So, what are you guys doing? I installed TVHz app, which didn't really help. It's a pain to keep switching resolutions depending on which apps & content to watch.

==================================================

On a different note, hope this helps some looking at this thread. This cheaper $65 70-lb capable mount is working well for me. Glad I didn't fork big buck$ for the Chief RPA mount. Also, this cheap 35 ft HDMI cable passes 4K HDR nicely.


----------



## Kumar106

Migeye said:


> I am sure it has already been mentioned (don't know how to search in a topic).
> 
> But is it normal that it sometimes can take up to 2 minutes (sometimes longer, sometimes shorter) before the beamer starts up? Also when this happens the fan blows like crazy.
> Sometimes de beamer does this and sometimes not bot mostly it does.
> 
> A colleague of me has the same beamer and also experienced this behaviour.
> 
> If it is by design, why does the beamer do this?


I am seeing the same issue, I returned one just because of this issue, and seeing the same with new one too. Also lense makes noise when scrolling through the movies fast in the plex app that may be because of the Color mode i am using. My lamp is on echo mode
I seen few threads about 5030UB on Avs about the sam issue


----------



## Kumar106

The_Forth_Man said:


> I bought and tested the Samsung k8500, samsung m8500, m9500, Sony ubd-800x for UHD playback and Apple tv 4k and Roku Ultra for streaming. I tested all those things for a month.
> 
> Well it depends on what your looking for I would've liked a one stop solution and hoped that the Samsung would meet my requirements.
> 
> 
> The M9500 and M8500 where cast out really fast because they didnt support 3d and that was on my list.
> The K8500 isn't bad at all and can be found on sale. Sadly the apps where not all that I was hoping for.
> Plex not being available on it was a big miss for me I do have a big streaming library witch is really simple for the family.
> 
> The sony is built like a tank it's simple and really does a great job load time is also super fast and if you look only at 4k uhh playback it was my favorite. It's also on sale for black friday here in canada for 200 cad at best buy. You may be able to order it online depending where you are in the world.
> 
> I ended up sending everything back but the ATV 4k witch was the best streamer for me and buying back the sony for less than a month ago. Also bought the PS4 pro since I couldn't pass the black friday.
> 
> Know debating if I should try the Xbox one s for 4k playback and send the sony ubd back or wait a year for the one x on the next black friday and be happy.
> 
> Solely for 4k uhd Bluray in my book at 200 CAD the sony wins hands down.
> 
> my 2 cts.
> 
> Chris
> 
> EDIT: Just saw that its at 149usd on best buy.com


thank you for the info, I am solely looking for blu ray for 4k and HDR, as I already have Nvidia shield for the streaming and apps. I will check out the Sony UBP-X800


----------



## viperlogic

jwhn said:


> Yes because he is calibrating to 2020/P3.
> 
> Viper, I was looking at your primary and secondary view in your file and in that view it is showing the 100% saturation data. You are calibrating at 50/50 right?
> 
> I am not even bothering running the sweeps at this stage given I am not able to even get the 50-50 accurate. I think it will be a quasi calibration for HDR in my case.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Correct while I did a primary/secondary sweep to see what it looked like, I didn't calibrate to those numbers as they are at extremes and from what I read, its best to calibrate to 50/50 for HDR and 75/75 for SDR. Hence for HDR I use each colours view which shows 0/25/50/75/100 saturation and calibrated using the 50 saturation free measure.


----------



## viperlogic

Kumar106 said:


> thank you for the info, I am solely looking for blu ray for 4k and HDR, as I already have Nvidia shield for the streaming and apps. I will check out the Sony UBP-X800


On this side of the pond the Panny UB700 is a very popular choice in general and with the Epsons. I went with the UB400 as got it for cheap (100).


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Kumar106 said:


> thank you for the info, I am solely looking for blu ray for 4k and HDR, as I already have Nvidia shield for the streaming and apps. I will check out the Sony UBP-X800


I have the Epson/nVidia/Sony combo and am very happy.


----------



## robc1976

muad'dib said:


> For the output issue..
> 
> Your not choosing correct settings...
> 
> And therefore forcing linker to output one resolution etc...
> 
> 
> 
> I like the bluetooth app better, easier...
> 
> I get 4k/24 hdr with uhd discs, 4k/60 hdr with games etc... With no adjustment to linker....
> 
> Here is screen shots from computer Gui and also Bluetooth Gui..


This is probably a dumb question but I have never messed with a linker. I just got mine in today.

Do you plug it in, hook it up in system AVR to hdmi to linker to projector then do the settings or can you hook it up to computer and then do the settings and put it into system? Guessing you have to have it plugged into power source to do firmware? Some devices get power from the PC so thought I would ask.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

robc1976 said:


> This is probably a dumb question but I have never messed with a linker. I just got mine in today.
> 
> Do you plug it in, hook it up in system AVR to hdmi to linker to projector then do the settings or can you hook it up to computer and then do the settings and put it into system? Guessing you have to have it plugged into power source to do firmware? Some devices get power from the PC so thought I would ask.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Hook it up to your PC first. Install firmware and set your settings. Then plug into your AVR and Projector and you are done. power source is off the USB on your computer when doing firmware and settings. Download and read the instructions from HD Furys website on how to upload firmware.


----------



## trainfan

*firmware update to 1.10/1.04 went backwards*

Just updated my firmware from 1.09/1.04 to the new 1.10/1.04 and seems to have been successful but now my projector shows 1.08/1.04 ??
Anybody else seen this ?


Just downloaded the same file from Epson and did a file hash check and is the same file


----------



## inspector

The_Forth_Man said:


> I bought and tested the Samsung k8500, samsung m8500, m9500, Sony ubd-800x for UHD playback and Apple tv 4k and Roku Ultra for streaming. I tested all those things for a month.
> 
> Well it depends on what your looking for I would've liked a one stop solution and hoped that the Samsung would meet my requirements.
> 
> 
> The M9500 and M8500 where cast out really fast because they didnt support 3d and that was on my list.
> The K8500 isn't bad at all and can be found on sale. Sadly the apps where not all that I was hoping for.
> Plex not being available on it was a big miss for me I do have a big streaming library witch is really simple for the family.
> 
> The sony is built like a tank it's simple and really does a great job load time is also super fast and if you look only at 4k uhh playback it was my favorite. It's also on sale for black friday here in canada for 200 cad at best buy. You may be able to order it online depending where you are in the world.
> 
> I ended up sending everything back but the ATV 4k witch was the best streamer for me and buying back the sony for less than a month ago. Also bought the PS4 pro since I couldn't pass the black friday.
> 
> Know debating if I should try the Xbox one s for 4k playback and send the sony ubd back or wait a year for the one x on the next black friday and be happy.
> 
> Solely for 4k uhd Bluray in my book at 200 CAD the sony wins hands down.
> 
> my 2 cts.
> 
> Chris
> 
> EDIT: Just saw that its at 149usd on best buy.com



I have to tell you're mistaken. I run my 6040 with high speed HDMI from my PJ to my Sammy K8500 (45' run)...and I GET PERFECT 3D!!!


My AVR is an older 7.2 and I run regular HDMI from the Sammy to the AVR and get PERFECT audio. 


Now, if I decide to want Atmos, then I'll need a new AVR and then I'll be set!!!


----------



## Dominic Chan

inspector said:


> I have to tell you're mistaken. I run my 6040 with high speed HDMI from my PJ to my Sammy K8500 (45' run)...and I GET PERFECT 3D!!!


The K8500 does support 3D, the M9500 and M8500 do not.


----------



## robc1976

trainfan said:


> Just updated my firmware from 1.09/1.04 to the new 1.10/1.04 and seems to have been successful but now my projector shows 1.08/1.04 ??
> Anybody else seen this ?
> 
> 
> Just downloaded the same file from Epson and did a file hash check and is the same file


Anybody know what the update is for? Very hesitant to update....updates sometimes hurt performance. I don't watch 3D at all if that's what its for.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> Hook it up to your PC first. Install firmware and set your settings. Then plug into your AVR and Projector and you are done. power source is off the USB on your computer when doing firmware and settings. Download and read the instructions from HD Furys website on how to upload firmware.


Thank you man! 

Got it uploaded (19A like suggested), the power source that plugs into wall, does that matter what usb you use? 

Also, I have switch in the middle to "custom" correct? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## welldun

*Epson remote vs universal remote*

I pose the question because I have been using the Epson remote from my 5040ub to control the projector, the Sony UBP-X800, the Nvidia Shield tv 2017 and Pioneer SC-99, all of which connect via the HDMI CEC function. The only thing that I can't control directly via the Epson Remote is the Lutron dimmer that controls the light in the theater room. 

I just picked up a Logitech Harmony Ultimate One remote and after quickly programming the various activities, I still find it more cumbersome to use than just using the Epson remote. 
For starters, with the Epson remote, I don't have to aim it towards the gear, I simply point it at the screen and the projector then sends the commands to the respective unit. 

years back I owned a Harmony 880 remote. Back then, I didn't have the HDMI CEC functionality on the gear that I owned, and the 880 did a nice job of controlling everything albeit, I had to point it behind me where all of the electrics sit. That remote got damaged before I upgraded my gear, so I figured one day I'd pick up another universal remote to do the same. However since upgrading my theater, right out of the box I was impressed with the flexibility of the Epson remote, and each time that I've added a new piece of equipment to my theater, the HDMI link feature seems to suffice. 

So I ask, am I overlooking some feature or function of the new Harmony Ultimate One remote that I just got, or is there no real advantage at this time based on the limited amount of equipment that needs to be controlled in my theater? 

Since this is all in a dedicated theater room, I don't really see me adding the Harmony hub (which is listed as an upgrade for the remote) to control other things around the house with it. Even though the remote itself was bought at a relatively great Black Friday price ($69) compare to its original listed price of $249, I'm still not sure that it can make thing easier than the Epson remote already does.:frown:


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> This is probably a dumb question but I have never messed with a linker. I just got mine in today.
> 
> Do you plug it in, hook it up in system AVR to hdmi to linker to projector then do the settings or can you hook it up to computer and then do the settings and put it into system? Guessing you have to have it plugged into power source to do firmware? Some devices get power from the PC so thought I would ask.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


One last question

I want "scaling justified + GUI" selected on side of divice as well as "custom/GUI use EDID"? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

my linker just came in but my surface isn't recognizing it. Not powering on. Does anyone else have this problem? I have all the stuff downloaded but can't get it to pop up.


----------



## jwhn

Brajesh said:


> Hi all, hoping to get some advice on nVidia Shield & 5040 with regards to 4K & HDR. I've searched this thread & see people are struggling with this, but didn't see what the best workarounds may be.
> 
> With Shield, when I force its resolution to [email protected] or 24, I'm able to choose & enable BT2020 option, which allows HDR to work properly with Amazon, Netflix & Kodi. However, this screws up apps that render in 720p or 1080p/60, including Playstation Vue. To make these work properly, I need to switch back to 1080p/59.94 or 4K/59.94, which in turn means no HDR in Amazon, Netflix & Kodi. Ugh!
> 
> It seems Shield can't handle automatic refresh rate switching between 23.976/24 4K BT2020 & 1080p or 4K 59.94/60 BT709. So, what are you guys doing? I installed TVHz app, which didn't really help. It's a pain to keep switching resolutions depending on which apps & content to watch.
> 
> ==================================================
> 
> On a different note, hope this helps some looking at this thread. This cheaper $65 70-lb capable mount is working well for me. Glad I didn't fork big buck$ for the Chief RPA mount. Also, this cheap 35 ft HDMI cable passes 4K HDR nicely.


I was able to program my harmony remote to switch between the two settings with a touch of a button. Takes a bit to set it up but then it works fine. Still takes a bit of time to switch over but at least its easier.


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> my linker just came in but my surface isn't recognizing it. Not powering on. Does anyone else have this problem? I have all the stuff downloaded but can't get it to pop up.


I had to powercycle it. I am getting hdr 8 but gaming but what I hate is it takes a full minute to change any settings on mu blueray player and that sucks. If this is the case good by linker....not worth it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Have to say not a fan of this linker. Sometimes I can get my Blu-ray menu to come up sometimes it takes minutes and it says no signal then finally appears. 

I copied setting for setting posted on forum and switches in middle. I will try the newest firmware I guess.

Unless I have a setting wrong this linker is going in my junk box.

Is it supposed to stay lit up green? Also, only get signal to xbox x with hdmi port 2 on linker.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Okay, seem to have fixed it with firmware .25 or it was because I was using port B (highly unlikely)



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Also, some have complained about the xbox x hdr not having the punch I.E Assassin creed origins sun not being bright ect.

There ARE HDR setting for "maximum luminance" (nits) default is 800 and there are "luminance white (called paper white)" settings default is 120

I put mine at 1000 nit and 140 white luminance and this really made a great looking picture.

I have over 150hrs on this game and the HDR with oledurt settings really brought out incredible detail. The non HDR looked great also but looked unnatural.

Harper vision is good but looks a bit washed out but this is a game so different than movie.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Also, some have complained about the xbox x hdr not having the punch I.E Assassin creed origins sun not being bright ect.
> 
> There ARE HDR setting for "maximum luminance" (nits) default is 800 and there are "luminance white (called paper white)" settings default is 120
> 
> I put mine at 1000 nit and 140 white luminance and this really made a great looking picture.
> 
> I have over 150hrs on this game and the HDR with oledurt settings really brought out incredible detail. The non HDR looked great also but looked unnatural.
> 
> Harper vision is good but looks a bit washed out but this is a game so different than movie.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


240 not 140

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

robc1976 said:


> Also, some have complained about the xbox x hdr not having the punch I.E Assassin creed origins sun not being bright ect.
> 
> There ARE HDR setting for "maximum luminance" (nits) default is 800 and there are "luminance white (called paper white)" settings default is 120
> 
> I put mine at 1000 nit and 140 white luminance and this really made a great looking picture.
> 
> I have over 150hrs on this game and the HDR with oledurt settings really brought out incredible detail. The non HDR looked great also but looked unnatural.
> 
> Harper vision is good but looks a bit washed out but this is a game so different than movie.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Did you just plug and play after setting the linker settings? Mine was still showing sdr rec709? All the green check marks were lit up. 

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

robc1976 said:


> Also, some have complained about the xbox x hdr not having the punch I.E Assassin creed origins sun not being bright ect.
> 
> There ARE HDR setting for "maximum luminance" (nits) default is 800 and there are "luminance white (called paper white)" settings default is 120
> 
> I put mine at 1000 nit and 140 white luminance and this really made a great looking picture.
> 
> I have over 150hrs on this game and the HDR with oledurt settings really brought out incredible detail. The non HDR looked great also but looked unnatural.
> 
> Harper vision is good but looks a bit washed out but this is a game so different than movie.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


People also need to remember, even though they are using Harpervision or Oledurts settings they need to tweak them to their room. Everyone uses a different screen, throw distance etc. They also need to make sure they are setting the correct parameters in the "SIGNAL" menu. I made a few tweaks to mine and it looks amazing. Definitely better then the SDR look with no Linker. 

Or if people do no like the look of Harpervision or Oledurt. Just start from scratch and dial it in to your taste. I bumped up saturation a bit and it brought out the colors. I played Madden for a bit last night and the difference was night and day.


----------



## budeliao

Just bought an Oppo 203 to pair with my 5040ub and I'm working to get settings for UHD Blu-ray that I like. A question on saving settings...the Setting->Advanced->Dynamic Range does not appear to be getting save (or loaded) after saving settings. When I change between UHD Blu-ray and standard 1080p and vice versa content I always find myself having to go and manually select the proper Dynamic Range setting. 

I search of user's manual didn't yield info on what settings should be getting saved and what savings don't get saved. THis may be addressed in the forum already, but a quick search didn't find anything.

Thanks for any help/comments.


----------



## Lesmor

budeliao said:


> Just bought an Oppo 203 to pair with my 5040ub and I'm working to get settings for UHD Blu-ray that I like. A question on saving settings...the Setting->Advanced->Dynamic Range does not appear to be getting save (or loaded) after saving settings. When I change between UHD Blu-ray and standard 1080p and vice versa content I always find myself having to go and manually select the proper Dynamic Range setting.
> 
> I search of user's manual didn't yield info on what settings should be getting saved and what savings don't get saved. THis may be addressed in the forum already, but a quick search didn't find anything.
> 
> Thanks for any help/comments.


setting dynamic range is universal to all modes and memories


----------



## budeliao

Lesmor said:


> setting dynamic range is universal to all modes and memories


Hmmm...that's seems unfortunate. Does that imply Epson's assumption is that people won't need to use different dynamic range settings for different sources? Or has Epson just not caught up with the times?

Thanks.


----------



## Aardawg

So I just bought a PS4 Pro, I've had the Epson 5040ub for a few months. Is it possible to actually play games in "4K" on PS4 Pro through the Epson 5040ub?

I changed the settings on the PS4 Video Output Menu to either Automatic or 2140, and the Info Tab on the Epson 5040ub menu shows 3840x2160 resolution. I see a noticeable difference in menus on the Playstation 4 Pro. I've watched some 4k videos on Youtube, and resolution tab still says 3840x2160.

But when I start up a game (Assassins Creed Origins), the title screen for the game shows resolution at 3840x2160, but as it loads, the projector screen goes black, and when it comes back on the resolution is now 1080p. 

Does the Epson 5040ub not support "4k" resolution for PS4 Pro Games? Is there a setting somewhere that I'm missing for this?

I'll be pretty disappointed if the only thing I can do with this projector and PS4 Pro is watch Netflix and Youtube in "4K".

Any help please? Having a hard time finding a definitive answer to this question.


----------



## mase1981

Aardawg said:


> So I just bought a PS4 Pro, I've had the Epson 5040ub for a few months. Is it possible to actually play games in "4K" on PS4 Pro through the Epson 5040ub?
> 
> I changed the settings on the PS4 Video Output Menu to either Automatic or 2140, and the Info Tab on the Epson 5040ub menu shows 3840x2160 resolution. I see a noticeable difference in menus on the Playstation 4 Pro. I've watched some 4k videos on Youtube, and resolution tab still says 3840x2160.
> 
> But when I start up a game (Assassins Creed Origins), the title screen for the game shows resolution at 3840x2160, but as it loads, the projector screen goes black, and when it comes back on the resolution is now 1080p.
> 
> Does the Epson 5040ub not support "4k" resolution for PS4 Pro Games? Is there a setting somewhere that I'm missing for this?
> 
> I'll be pretty disappointed if the only thing I can do with this projector and PS4 Pro is watch Netflix and Youtube in "4K".
> 
> Any help please? Having a hard time finding a definitive answer to this question.


Really not trying to be rude, but i wished you searched this massive thread before asking that question. it was asked more then literally 600 times.... 
to answer you quickly, to be able to play 4k HDR (not video, gaming) you need to purchase the HDFury linker, once you have that you will be able to game at 4k HDR. (this is epson HDMI chipset cap of 10GBps instead of 18 needed).


----------



## Dominic Chan

mase1981 said:


> Really not trying to be rude, but i wished you searched this massive thread before asking that question. it was asked more then literally 600 times....
> to answer you quickly, to be able to play 4k HDR (not video, gaming) you need to purchase the HDFury linker, once you have that you will be able to game at 4k HDR. (this is epson HDMI chipset cap of 10GBps instead of 18 needed).


Perhaps we can ask Shepdog to add a link in the first post.


----------



## mase1981

Dominic Chan said:


> Perhaps we can ask Shepdog to add a link in the first post.


good thinking @shepdog , would be a good idea to add that  in my sig is a direct link to a copy paste info for that exact repetitive question


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> People also need to remember, even though they are using Harpervision or Oledurts settings they need to tweak them to their room. Everyone uses a different screen, throw distance etc. They also need to make sure they are setting the correct parameters in the "SIGNAL" menu. I made a few tweaks to mine and it looks amazing. Definitely better then the SDR look with no Linker.
> 
> Or if people do no like the look of Harpervision or Oledurt. Just start from scratch and dial it in to your taste. I bumped up saturation a bit and it brought out the colors. I played Madden for a bit last night and the difference was night and day.


Agree 100% I used test patterns to dial brightness in to mutt room. With oledurt I raised saturation from 43 to 62 add that made the occur picture come to life.

Used preset 3

Bumped sharpness up to 6.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> Did you just plug and play after setting the linker settings? Mine was still showing sdr rec709? All the green check marks were lit up.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


At first Ion xbox X meh it showed 709, onece I loaded the game it was 2020 HDR 420 8 bit.

Then I was having give delays between Blu-ray screens, uploaded .25 firmware from the .19a and it fixed it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Aardawg

mase1981 said:


> Really not trying to be rude, but i wished you searched this massive thread before asking that question. it was asked more then literally 600 times....
> to answer you quickly, to be able to play 4k HDR (not video, gaming) you need to purchase the HDFury linker, once you have that you will be able to game at 4k HDR. (this is epson HDMI chipset cap of 10GBps instead of 18 needed).


Hey man, thanks for the help and the link. I know people are too lazy to look through the previous 40 pages, but i did go through and search for that issue. Just trying to get a definitive answer it can be tricky to follow the different conversations going on through the posts.


----------



## mase1981

Aardawg said:


> mase1981 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Really not trying to be rude, but i wished you searched this massive thread before asking that question. it was asked more then literally 600 times....
> to answer you quickly, to be able to play 4k HDR (not video, gaming) you need to purchase the HDFury linker, once you have that you will be able to game at 4k HDR. (this is epson HDMI chipset cap of 10GBps instead of 18 needed).
> 
> 
> 
> Hey man, thanks for the help and the link. I know people are too lazy to look through the previous 40 pages, but i did go through and search for that issue. Just trying to get a definitive answer it can be tricky to follow the different conversations going on through the posts.
Click to expand...

Np. Read my signature it will tell you anything you need to know.


----------



## njbrodeur87

Got my linker and everything so far is working great with os4 pro and Xbox one. I noticed a few games when I start them will take 15 seconds or so to appear back on screen, and some other only 6 seconds. This is running firmware 0.19a like most said worked the best. Is this just how it is with linker or something else I could try?


----------



## Juiced46

njbrodeur87 said:


> Got my linker and everything so far is working great with os4 pro and Xbox one. I noticed a few games when I start them will take 15 seconds or so to appear back on screen, and some other only 6 seconds. This is running firmware 0.19a like most said worked the best. Is this just how it is with linker or something else I could try?


That is just how it is.


----------



## mase1981

njbrodeur87 said:


> Got my linker and everything so far is working great with os4 pro and Xbox one. I noticed a few games when I start them will take 15 seconds or so to appear back on screen, and some other only 6 seconds. This is running firmware 0.19a like most said worked the best. Is this just how it is with linker or something else I could try?


You can upgrade to firmware 25. i did and all is working well. 
however, if you do - i highly recommend reset the linker to factory defaults after firmware upgrade and then re-apply settings. Otherwise, you will get "no signal"...
i noticed a 3 seconds delay when starting up a 4k game. which is something i can completely live with, until Epson come out with model 7040UB which will have an 18gbps chip lol


----------



## robc1976

budeliao said:


> Hmmm...that's seems unfortunate. Does that imply Epson's assumption is that people won't need to use different dynamic range settings for different sources? Or has Epson just not caught up with the times?
> 
> Thanks.


Color space also, entire signal menu

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Aardawg said:


> Hey man, thanks for the help and the link. I know people are too lazy to look through the previous 40 pages, but i did go through and search for that issue. Just trying to get a definitive answer it can be tricky to follow the different conversations going on through the posts.


I did the same lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

njbrodeur87 said:


> Got my linker and everything so far is working great with os4 pro and Xbox one. I noticed a few games when I start them will take 15 seconds or so to appear back on screen, and some other only 6 seconds. This is running firmware 0.19a like most said worked the best. Is this just how it is with linker or something else I could try?


Mine were to to 2 mins in Blu-ray settings, test patterns. I switched to the .25 firmware and way better

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Globespy

kg505 said:


> In short the xbox one s will not currently display HDR with the 5040UB because of what signal the xbox one s outputs. To get HDR to show up with a 4K HDR blu ray right now using the xbox one s you need an HD Fury linker or you have to exchange the 5040UB for the 5040UBE model. Also keep in mind that HDR will not work on any xbox one s games no matter which model of the 5040 you have without the HD Fury Linker.
> 
> Earlier in this thread there are a ton of specifics on why the xbox one s doesn't work with with the 5040 if you want more details.


Some clarity here please.
Are you saying that pairing the 5040UB with the HDFury Linker (Monoprice right - https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-12...sr=1-1&keywords=hdfury+linker#customerReviews) can overcome the 5040's inability to play 4K HDR Xbox One X games at 60FPS?

It's really just a format issue and this HDFury converts to a format the Epson understands? 
I always thought this was a limitation of the Epson chipset being 10GB/s instead of 18Gb/s?

My receiver is kinda old (Pioneer VSX 84Txsi), but it does have HDMI (V1.2) switching/passthrough capabilities. 
Will this HDMI V1.2 work OK (edit: I think it's too slow as only does about 5GB's, not enough for 4K signal).

I guess I will have to bypass the receiver for the projector/HDFury video signal, connecting the Xbox One X directly to the HDfury then the HDFury to the Epson? I can still use the receiver for other things like the cable TV box/Roku etc.

This being the case, it makes the 5040 a top contender. I had written this PJ off because I game a lot and really wanted HDR 4K (faux4) HDR at 60FPS. For $200 this HDFury sounds like it makes the 5040 tick all my boxes.
Thanks.


----------



## robc1976

Globespy said:


> Some clarity here please.
> Are you saying that pairing the 5040UB with the HDFury Linker (Monoprice right - https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-12...sr=1-1&keywords=hdfury+linker#customerReviews) can overcome the 5040's inability to play 4K HDR Xbox One X games at 60FPS?
> 
> It's really just a format issue and this HDFury converts to a format the Epson understands?
> I always thought this was a limitation of the Epson chipset being 10GB/s instead of 18Gb/s?
> 
> My receiver is kinda old (Pioneer VSX 84Txsi), but it does have HDMI (V1.2) switching/passthrough capabilities.
> Will this HDMI V1.2 work OK (edit: I think it's too slow as only does about 5GB's, not enough for 4K signal).
> 
> I guess I will have to bypass the receiver for the projector/HDFury video signal, connecting the Xbox One X directly to the HDfury then the HDFury to the Epson? I can still use the receiver for other things like the cable TV box/Roku etc.
> 
> This being the case, it makes the 5040 a top contender. I had written this PJ off because I game a lot and really wanted HDR 4K (faux4) HDR at 60FPS. For $200 this HDFury sounds like it makes the 5040 tick all my boxes.
> Thanks.


Yes, I am getting 4K HDR 422 8 bit on xbox x with linker. Beautiful, and detail is insane.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

This actually looks better in person









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Globespy

robc1976 said:


> This actually looks better in person
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



Wow!
Looks amazing!
Am I correct in that if I connect a PC I can get 4:4:4 on the Epson with or without the Fury?
EDIT: Impossible to get any more than 4:2:0 with the 5040

Only one potential issue still exists using the HDFury, and perhaps the main reason Microsoft went with 10-bit instead of the 8-bit that the 5040's HDMI chip's bandwidth can handle is because of the color banding created with an 8-bit signal.
I've seen this a lot on LG OLED TV threads where users who watched 8-bit 4K could see banding on scenes where colors darkened or lightened.

Wouldn't this be far more prevalent the larger the screen size?

Could you take a high quality picture of the same shot you posted, but focus on on an area where the image goes from pure black to lighter black/gray? Interested to see if there's banding, which from the data would seem highly probable.

Decisions decisions once again. A JVC RS420 can be had for only a few hundred $'s more if you take into account the added cost of the $250 HDFury Linker to get the 8-bit signal to be accepted by the XB1X. And latency is about the same as the Epson for all intent purposes (I think 6ms slower which is negligible).

Thanks.


----------



## Globespy

robc1976 said:


> Yes, I am getting 4K HDR 422 8 bit on xbox x with linker. Beautiful, and detail is insane.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Impossible to get 4K HDR 4:2:2 8-bit on that chipset on the 5040 which is limited to an absolute max bandwidth of 10.2Gb/s - you can see from the attached that you can't get 4:2:2 with that HDMI chipset. Impossible. Even with the HDFury, it still has to go through the Epson chipset and that's the roadblock
It's only capable of 4:2:0 8-bit, so if the HDFury is saying otherwise, it's in error.

Still, a fantastic option for what was once thought a dead duck with regard to the XB1X - but as my previous post details, it's likely the reason why Microsoft chose not to support 8-bit (banding).

Lots of reading last night/today.....it's all pretty technical stuff! No wonder consumers get hoodwinked!


----------



## njbrodeur87

Here is a question for you guys. Now that the linker is working great with Xbox one x, is their a reason I should keep using the Philips drive for 4K movie play and 3d playback? Wouldn’t it be exactly the same as Xbox one x? If so I’ll either sell over or move this to a different room


----------



## pkthegod

hi im having problems playing 3d movies off my hard drive ....when ever i go to the 3d settings on the projector there grayed out any help would be appreciated


----------



## Juiced46

robc1976 said:


> Yes, I am getting 4K HDR 422 8 bit on xbox x with linker. Beautiful, and detail is insane.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk





Globespy said:


> Impossible to get 4K HDR 4:2:2 8-bit on that chipset on the 5040 which is limited to an absolute max bandwidth of 10.2Gb/s - you can see from the attached that you can't get 4:2:2 with that HDMI chipset. Impossible. Even with the HDFury, it still has to go through the Epson chipset and that's the roadblock
> It's only capable of 4:2:0 8-bit, so if the HDFury is saying otherwise, it's in error.
> 
> Still, a fantastic option for what was once thought a dead duck with regard to the XB1X - but as my previous post details, it's likely the reason why Microsoft chose not to support 8-bit (banding).
> 
> Lots of reading last night/today.....it's all pretty technical stuff! No wonder consumers get hoodwinked!


I was going to say. No way you are getting 4K HDR 4:2:2 8 bit. Just check the projector info screen. It should be 4:2:0 8 bit like mentioned.


----------



## seplant

viperlogic said:


> Spent some time last night trying to calibrate HDR on my Epson 5040 using Ryan Masciola's HDR patterns, HCFR 3.4.5 (Rec2020 and SMPTE 2084) and i1d3 meter. Projector set to Bright Cinema, HDR1 (aka Auto bright), medium lamp. Did brightness, contrast and 2 point grayscale all of which seems to be ok. What should the gamma curve be like for our projectors, should it track closely to SMPTE 2084?
> 
> I then did RGBYCM using his 50/50 pattern. Was able to get all 50/50 reference points bar Green. That is miles off. Also can be seen that the other green and cyan points are miles off also. What could be causing this or is it limitation of the projector for HDR?
> 
> I then played some 4K HDR content and was far from impressed. There was no "pop". Looked like just a normal 1080p SDR image to be honest!
> 
> I then loaded in Oledurts Bright Cinema and Digital Cinema HDR settings to see what the 4K HDR content looked like, and it was pretty much the same, no real pop, with digital cinema being darker. In checking both the info on the projector it is receiving 2020 HDR content and UHD player (Panasonic UB400) is sending 2020 HDR.
> 
> Post calibration and reviewing the HCFR chc, I see that 80, 90 and 100 grayscale have the same Y of 34.5 ftl (118 nits). Do I need to adjust contrast to resolve that?


I'm a total newb to calibrating this projector myself, but should you be using Rec2020 color space in HCFR if the projector is set to Bright Cinema color mode? Only the Digital Cinema color mode engages the cinema filter to enable the wider color space. I would think if you are using the Rec2020 color space in HCFR but then setting the projector to where it can attain only the standard REC 709 color space, it would be impossible to dial in the colors, especially the green.


----------



## seplant

mikecoscia said:


> Happy Thanksgiving everyone! So I got my refurb in yesterday and had some time to play with it this last night and this morning. The refurb came in retail packaging and looked brand new. There no marks on the case or scratches on the lens. It also came with a remote, but no power cord or instructions. I placed it on top a few boxes directly under my current projector, lined everything up and popped in Rogue One 3D. Crosstalk was way better, could hardly tell in most scenes. I also noticed that the pixels seemed sharper/more in focus. However, the refurb was sitting dead center of the screen. My existing projector is mounted close to the ceiling and I am using a lot of vertical lens shifting. So, the pixels towards the top of the screen seem sharper than the ones towards the bottom. I assume this is because the LCD panels are not sitting in the center of the lens because of the vertical shift. I could tilt the projector and use keystone, but that presents its own problems. I could also just get a longer pole and mount the projector lower, but than it is kind of in the way. You really don't notice it anyway, unless you are looking at text from a foot or two away. The bigger problem I noticed was the panel alignment was worse than my current projector. On a straight white vertical line, you could clearly see the red pixels to the left. However, at this point it was late and I figured I could just do a panel alignment in the morning. At least the crosstalk issue seemed fixed and I went to bed happy.
> 
> Wake up the next morning and popped in Rouge One 3D again for the hell of it, and the crosstalk was back?!? Not as bad as my current projector, but definitely worse than the night before. Which I totally do not understand, nothing changed. I spent all morning messing with the settings and I was able to just about eliminate it from most scenes by setting the projector to dynamic 3D and popout to 1. However, I could not fix the panel alignment, no matter how much I played with the adjustment settings and it is for that reason alone I am not going to keep the refurb. My current projector's alignment is much better. I also for the hell of it tried the same 3D settings on my current projector and it improved the crosstalk. Still not as good as the refurb, but damn close. Going to call Epson tomorrow and see if I can get ahold of Cortney. Maybe, I'll try swapping it out one more time. I still can't believe how the refurb seemed to work perfect the night before.....ugh.


I've seen this over and over with this projector. 3D looks great one day, then terrible the next, even with the same titles! I'm almost wondering if there is some kind of interference going on, even though there shouldn't be with the wireless technology they're using. That might also explain why some people have issues and others don't seem to.

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## viperlogic

seplant said:


> I'm a total newb to calibrating this projector myself, but should you be using Rec2020 color space in HCFR if the projector is set to Bright Cinema color mode? Only the Digital Cinema color mode engages the cinema filter to enable the wider color space. I would think if you are using the Rec2020 color space in HCFR but then setting the projector to where it can attain only the standard REC 709 color space, it would be impossible to dial in the colors, especially the green.


A few of us have moved this discussion over to a dedicated thread for calibrating HDR on the 5040 (and 6040)

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> I was going to say. No way you are getting 4K HDR 4:2:2 8 bit. Just check the projector info screen. It should be 4:2:0 8 bit like mentioned.


Your 100% correct, I mistyped 420 8 bit

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Globespy said:


> Impossible to get 4K HDR 4:2:2 8-bit on that chipset on the 5040 which is limited to an absolute max bandwidth of 10.2Gb/s - you can see from the attached that you can't get 4:2:2 with that HDMI chipset. Impossible. Even with the HDFury, it still has to go through the Epson chipset and that's the roadblock
> It's only capable of 4:2:0 8-bit, so if the HDFury is saying otherwise, it's in error.
> 
> Still, a fantastic option for what was once thought a dead duck with regard to the XB1X - but as my previous post details, it's likely the reason why Microsoft chose not to support 8-bit (banding).
> 
> Lots of reading last night/today.....it's all pretty technical stuff! No wonder consumers get hoodwinked!


Totally correct, I mistyped its 420 8 bit

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## BiggusDiccus

*Marantz SR7011*

Proud owner of the 5040 UB and have been using a HD Fury Linker (love/hate that thing). My amp is a Denon AVR2112. I've been bypassing the HDMI inputs on the amp due to non-4k/UHD support. Hence the need for the Linker. 

4K/HDR sources:
PS4 Pro
Roku Ultra

I'd like to upgrade to the Marantz SR7011 but am unsure whether or not i'll still need the Linker. specs on the AVR:
4K Ultra HD 60 Hz, 4:4:4

So if I'm inputting the sources into the AVR will the Epson support the output correctly or will I still need the switcher?
My gut tells me yes, my heart tells me "please say no".


----------



## The_Forth_Man

BiggusDiccus said:


> Proud owner of the 5040 UB and have been using a HD Fury Linker (love/hate that thing). My amp is a Denon AVR2112. I've been bypassing the HDMI inputs on the amp due to non-4k/UHD support. Hence the need for the Linker.
> 
> 4K/HDR sources:
> PS4 Pro
> Roku Ultra
> 
> I'd like to upgrade to the Marantz SR7011 but am unsure whether or not i'll still need the Linker. specs on the AVR:
> 4K Ultra HD 60 Hz, 4:4:4
> 
> So if I'm inputting the sources into the AVR will the Epson support the output correctly or will I still need the switcher?
> My gut tells me yes, my heart tells me "please say no".



If you mean SDR 4:4:4 then Yes you can now sell me your linker 


It won't do HDR without the linker at 60hz tho. only 30hz and 24hz


----------



## BiggusDiccus

The_Forth_Man said:


> If you mean SDR 4:4:4 then Yes you can now sell me your linker
> 
> 
> It won't do HDR without the linker at 60hz tho. only 30hz and 24hz


If the Linker wasn't so darn slow...


----------



## Azekecse

BiggusDiccus said:


> If the Linker wasn't so darn slow...


Did you upgrade the firmware to 0.25 on the linker?

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## SALadder22FF

BiggusDiccus said:


> If the Linker wasn't so darn slow...


Yes. The slowness is a huge let down 

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## gnolivos

OK, Off Topic but PS4 pro gets mentioned a lot here... I am trylu disappointed that my favorite 4k apps such as VUDU and Amazon Video are only updated to 4K for OTHER platforms (Roku, Xbox, Chrome, Fire). the PS4 Pro has no 4k disc support because we are in the streaming era. Their words, not mine. This really sucks - it has been well over a year now.


----------



## mase1981

SALadder22FF said:


> Yes. The slowness is a huge let down
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


im on version 25 with the linker and yamaha rx-a2060
i get no "slow" .... when i am switching from 30 sdr to 60fps with HDR via the xbox one x, i get a max of 2 seconds delay of "no signal" . other then that everything working perfectly . i see alot of ppl complain about "delay" but non of them are yamaha owners, i wonder if that plays a part... can totally live with 2 sec delay to get 4k gaming with HDR . which looks amazing.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

mase1981 said:


> im on version 25 with the linker and yamaha rx-a2060
> i get no "slow" .... when i am switching from 30 sdr to 60fps with HDR via the xbox one x, i get a max of 2 seconds delay of "no signal" . other then that everything working perfectly . i see alot of ppl complain about "delay" but non of them are yamaha owners, i wonder if that plays a part... can totally live with 2 sec delay to get 4k gaming with HDR . which looks amazing.


Seems fair enough ppl that get slow or fast response should state wether or not a AVR is in the chain what brand/ model it is and where in the chain it is!

I suspect that where is a big part of the variance were seeing.

It seems off topic but it is to get the best out of the 5040/6040/9300


----------



## benzjas

Have an epson 5040 on the way from projector people. What UHD player should i get sony x800, samsung m8500. Or something different?


----------



## Juiced46

mase1981 said:


> im on version 25 with the linker and yamaha rx-a2060
> i get no "slow" .... when i am switching from 30 sdr to 60fps with HDR via the xbox one x, i get a max of 2 seconds delay of "no signal" . other then that everything working perfectly . i see alot of ppl complain about "delay" but non of them are yamaha owners, i wonder if that plays a part... can totally live with 2 sec delay to get 4k gaming with HDR . which looks amazing.


I am running a Denon X4300H. Linker is between the OUT of the AVR and Epson. When I was using the 23 Firmware, it was VERY slow. Sometimes 30-45 seconds to regain signal. I downgraded Firmware to 19 and Sync times improved drastically. So I would rule out the AVR as the problem. It was not as fast as 2 seconds. But usually around 5-10seconds MAX when switching from SDR to HDR, mostly when booting up an Xbox One X title, or backing out of the title. I have yet to try the 25 version.


----------



## mase1981

Juiced46 said:


> I am running a Denon X4300H. Linker is between the OUT of the AVR and Epson. When I was using the 23 Firmware, it was VERY slow. Sometimes 30-45 seconds to regain signal. I downgraded Firmware to 19 and Sync times improved drastically. So I would rule out the AVR as the problem. It was not as fast as 2 seconds. But usually around 5-10seconds MAX when switching from SDR to HDR, mostly when booting up an Xbox One X title, or backing out of the title. I have yet to try the 25 version.


23 is known to be very bad, i tested 25 and its working perfectly with improvement from 19a. go ahead and put 25 on it and re-test and report if you dont mind.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

benzjas said:


> Have an epson 5040 on the way from projector people. What UHD player should i get sony x800, samsung m8500. Or something different?


Well that depends on what you want. 

Sony as less apps but is more robust better built and as more playback (discs) than sammy.

tested both and m8500 went straight back in the box the K8500 or M9500 would be better options in samsung.

But Sony Wins


----------



## Lithium

benzjas said:


> Have an epson 5040 on the way from projector people. What UHD player should i get sony x800, samsung m8500. Or something different?


I am very happy with the K8500 and highly recommend it. While the apps are not as fast as say a roku or similar stream box, Netflix and Amazon both play 4k HDR @ 24 without a linker when the player is configured correctly.

My full post was several pages back and can be found here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-355.html#post54870898


----------



## rlhaidet

This is my 2nd Epson projector and I have to say the 5040 is a pos as far as I'm concerned. The 503 worked flawlessly. I bought this 5040 last august and have never been able to get a 4k signal unless the video device is plugged directly into the projector which defeats the purpose of have a projector to begin with.

I currently have have a Yamaha RX-A860 receiver that supports HDCP2.2, HDR10 / Dolby Vision™ / HLG and BT.2020 compatible and has a 4K/60p, 4:4:4 pass thru, but still unable to get a compatible signal in 4K.

I haven't tried to use the unit since last year, but was wondering if there has been any solutions to the compatibility issues with this projector.


----------



## WynsWrld98

rlhaidet said:


> This is my 2nd Epson projector and I have to say the 5040 is a pos as far as I'm concerned. The 503 worked flawlessly. I bought this 5040 last august and have never been able to get a 4k signal unless the video device is plugged directly into the projector which defeats the purpose of have a projector to begin with.
> 
> I currently have have a Yamaha RX-A860 receiver that supports HDCP2.2, HDR10 / Dolby Vision™ / HLG and BT.2020 compatible and has a 4K/60p, 4:4:4 pass thru, but still unable to get a compatible signal in 4K.
> 
> I haven't tried to use the unit since last year, but was wondering if there has been any solutions to the compatibility issues with this projector.


Perhaps ask on a Yamaha RX-A860 forum if others have any issue getting 4K through it. I have a Denon X6300H and a 5040 and no issues getting 4K through the Denon to the 5040.


----------



## old corps

rlhaidet said:


> This is my 2nd Epson projector and I have to say the 5040 is a pos as far as I'm concerned. The 503 worked flawlessly. I bought this 5040 last august and have never been able to get a 4k signal unless the video device is plugged directly into the projector which defeats the purpose of have a projector to begin with.
> 
> I currently have have a Yamaha RX-A860 receiver that supports HDCP2.2, HDR10 / Dolby Vision™ / HLG and BT.2020 compatible and has a 4K/60p, 4:4:4 pass thru, but still unable to get a compatible signal in 4K.
> 
> I haven't tried to use the unit since last year, but was wondering if there has been any solutions to the compatibility issues with this projector.



Ouch! REALLY hated hearing this. I have a 5030 & ordered a 5040 today. Onkyo RZ710 A/V.
Ed


----------



## mase1981

rlhaidet said:


> This is my 2nd Epson projector and I have to say the 5040 is a pos as far as I'm concerned. The 503 worked flawlessly. I bought this 5040 last august and have never been able to get a 4k signal unless the video device is plugged directly into the projector which defeats the purpose of have a projector to begin with.
> 
> I currently have have a Yamaha RX-A860 receiver that supports HDCP2.2, HDR10 / Dolby Vision™ / HLG and BT.2020 compatible and has a 4K/60p, 4:4:4 pass thru, but still unable to get a compatible signal in 4K.
> 
> I haven't tried to use the unit since last year, but was wondering if there has been any solutions to the compatibility issues with this projector.


You need to go to the yamaha advanced menu and change 4K signal from 2 to 1 to make this work. Page 127: https://usa.yamaha.com/files/download/other_assets/1/794331/RX-A860_RX-A760_Manual_English.pdf


----------



## achanonier

Lithium said:


> I am very happy with the K8500 and highly recommend it. While the apps are not as fast as say a roku or similar stream box, Netflix and Amazon both play 4k HDR @ 24 without a linker when the player is configured correctly.
> 
> My full post was several pages back and can be found here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-355.html#post54870898


Hi there

MAybe I missed something but are you saying that you can get Netflix 4k24 HDR with the Samsung player?
Do you really get both the Ultra HD 4k and HDR tag on the Netflix shows?


----------



## Lithium

achanonier said:


> Hi there
> 
> MAybe I missed something but are you saying that you can get Netflix 4k24 HDR with the Samsung player?
> Do you really get both the Ultra HD 4k and HDR tag on the Netflix shows?


Netflix shows are tagged as "Ultra HD 4K" or as "HDR". The HDR tagged shows are also 4K. I attached info screens for an episode of Stranger Things Season 2.


----------



## achanonier

Thanks ! But it behave liek the Shield if only HDR logo visible then it's not 4k. The PJ says the incoming signal is 4k because the player actually upscales it...


----------



## Lithium

achanonier said:


> Thanks ! But it behave liek the Shield if only HDR logo visible then it's not 4k. The PJ says the incoming signal is 4k because the player actually upscales it...


The Netflix metadata (left corner) says 2160... so I am inclined to believe it.


----------



## achanonier

Lithium said:


> The Netflix metadata (left corner) says 2160... so I am inclined to believe it.


OUch mY sincere apologies ! I did not look a this... So is that the only player than can display netflix 4k24 hdr ...


----------



## urcha

mase1981 said:


> You need to go to the yamaha advanced menu and change 4K signal from 2 to 1 to make this work. Page 127: https://usa.yamaha.com/files/download/other_assets/1/794331/RX-A860_RX-A760_Manual_English.pdf


I've had trouble with my Yamaha receiver passing a signal to my HDFury linker. However, it works if I put it before the receiver. I wonder if that will fix it for me? I'll try when I get home. If so, you're my hero.


----------



## mase1981

urcha said:


> I've had trouble with my Yamaha receiver passing a signal to my HDFury linker. However, it works if I put it before the receiver. I wonder if that will fix it for me? I'll try when I get home. If so, you're my hero.


i have my linker sitting here: 
Yamaha RX-A2060 --> 3ft hdmi --> linker --> 20 ft hdmi --> epson HDMI1

works flawless with a 3 seconds delay when switching between 4k30 SDR to 4k60 HDR
linker on firmware 25. 
Yamaha advanced menu settings were changed.


----------



## urcha

mase1981 said:


> i have my linker sitting here:
> Yamaha RX-A2060 --> 3ft hdmi --> linker --> 20 ft hdmi --> epson HDMI1
> 
> works flawless with a 3 seconds delay when switching between 4k30 SDR to 4k60 HDR
> linker on firmware 25.
> Yamaha advanced menu settings were changed.


Worked: Xbox1x -> Linker -> Yamaha RX-V681BL -> Epson worked but I couldn't get Dolby Atmos. All Cables are under 4 feet and high speed rated
Did not work: Xbox1x -> Yamaha RX-V681BL -> Linker -> Epson I could not get HDR to pass through. I basically got the same settings as if the linker wasn't there at all.

It's encouraging to hear about changing to advanced menu setting. I knew something was wrong with the receiver, but I just couldn't figure it out.


----------



## mase1981

urcha said:


> mase1981 said:
> 
> 
> 
> i have my linker sitting here:
> Yamaha RX-A2060 --> 3ft hdmi --> linker --> 20 ft hdmi --> epson HDMI1
> 
> works flawless with a 3 seconds delay when switching between 4k30 SDR to 4k60 HDR
> linker on firmware 25.
> Yamaha advanced menu settings were changed.
> 
> 
> 
> Worked: Xbox1x -> Linker -> Yamaha RX-V681BL -> Epson worked but I couldn't get Dolby Atmos. All Cables are under 4 feet and high speed rated
> Did not work: Xbox1x -> Yamaha RX-V681BL -> Linker -> Epson I could not get HDR to pass through. I basically got the same settings as if the linker wasn't there at all.
> 
> It's encouraging to hear about changing to advanced menu setting. I knew something was wrong with the receiver, but I just couldn't figure it out.
Click to expand...

Wait, I'm confused. So u did change the advance menu and now all is working well?


----------



## joshnotebooks

robc1976 said:


> Yes, I am getting 4K HDR 422 8 bit on xbox x with linker. Beautiful, and detail is insane.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


If I buy the Linker do I need to change any specific settings to get that to work so i can play games in 4K HDR on the Epson 5040. 

I have the Xbox One X, a Denon avr x1300w and the Projector.

Thanks for any help, I am researching the Linker now but trying to understand it and make sure I'll be able to play with HDR if I spend that much money on the Linker.


----------



## urcha

mase1981 said:


> Wait, I'm confused. So u did change the advance menu and now all is working well?


I'm at work right now, I'll test when I get home. I haven't done anything yet, I was just listing out what I had tried to do in the past.


----------



## mase1981

urcha said:


> mase1981 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, I'm confused. So u did change the advance menu and now all is working well?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm at work right now, I'll test when I get home. I haven't done anything yet, I was just listing out what I had tried to do in the past.
Click to expand...

Ah. Gotcha. Then leave early lol. Tell the boss this is clearly more important  hope this works for u, if not I'm sure we can fix it


----------



## mase1981

joshnotebooks said:


> robc1976 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I am getting 4K HDR 422 8 bit on xbox x with linker. Beautiful, and detail is insane.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> If I buy the Linker do I need to change any specific settings to get that to work so i can play games in 4K HDR on the Epson 5040.
> 
> I have the Xbox One X, a Denon avr x1300w and the Projector.
> 
> Thanks for any help, I am researching the Linker now but trying to understand it and make sure I'll be able to play with HDR if I spend that much money on the Linker.
Click to expand...

 check out my sig


----------



## mrtonytoca

I have an Epson 4000 which seems very similar to the 5040ub. Do you think these "HarperVision" settings etc would also work well with the Epson 4000? I tried them, the digital cinema one and it didn't seem to have a positive effect on picture quality. I have a 120" Elite screen Aeon Cinegrey 3d screen. I haven't seen much mention of the Epson 4000 in the thread (I've been reading for days) and the actual Epson 4000 forum doesn't have much activity in it.


----------



## SALadder22FF

I played assassins creed with the 4k HDR and wasn't all that impressed. Seemed hazy. I was using Harper vision settings. What settings are y'all using

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> I played assassins creed with the 4k HDR and wasn't all that impressed. Seemed hazy. I was using Harper vision settings. What settings are y'all using
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


They suck compared to oledurt for some reason. I thought the same, looked hazy, dusty and lifeless.

Used these, adjust brightness/contrast although his settings where almost dead on but rooms are different.

I boosted saturation to 62 and tint to 46

In xbox HDR menu I did following

Luminance/nit = 1100
Paper-white = 230-240









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

I did post comparisons, game looks so damn good



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> They suck compared to oledurt for some reason. I thought the same, looked hazy, dusty and lifeless.
> 
> Used these, adjust brightness/contrast although his settings where almost dead on but rooms are different.
> 
> I boosted saturation to 62 and tint to 46
> 
> In xbox HDR menu I did following
> 
> Luminance/nit = 1100
> Paper-white = 230-240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Also put "image preset" = 3

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

robc1976 said:


> They suck compared to oledurt for some reason. I thought the same, looked hazy, dusty and lifeless.
> 
> Used these, adjust brightness/contrast although his settings where almost dead on but rooms are different.
> 
> I boosted saturation to 62 and tint to 46
> 
> In xbox HDR menu I did following
> 
> Luminance/nit = 1100
> Paper-white = 230-240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Ty ty ty

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> Ty ty ty
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


You will be very pleased, go to part of have with colors and adjust color saturation. 43 is WAY to low IMHO. 60 at lowest.

If you haven't yet, download the HDR10 manascolia test patterns. 

Adjust contrast then brightness then contrast again. With these settings dialed in I seriously don't think it can get better.

At night in.have you see reflections if sunlight off the water, the water has a greenish hue like it should.

Also, if the game looks to dark adjust 1 click or 2 up in xbox brightness setting. Don't adjust it so lauren is barely visible like it suggests, its totally not correct. 

I have spent hours up hours getting this dialed in and its so worth it.

Its my favorite game, hell I have it tattooed on me 

This pic was not finished but you get the point.









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> You will be very pleased, go to part of game with colors and adjust color saturation. 43 is WAY to low IMHO. 60 at lowest.
> 
> If you haven't yet, download the HDR10 manascolia test patterns.
> 
> Adjust contrast then brightness then contrast again. With these settings dialed in I seriously don't think it can get better.
> 
> At night you see reflections of sunlight off the water, the water has a greenish hue like it should.
> 
> Also, if the game looks to dark adjust 1 click or 2 up in xbox brightness setting. Don't adjust it so pattern is barely visible like it suggests, its totally not correct.
> 
> I have spent hours up hours getting this dialed in and its so worth it.
> 
> Its my favorite game, hell I have it tattooed on me
> 
> This pic was not finished but you get the point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## urcha

mase1981 said:


> Ah. Gotcha. Then leave early lol. Tell the boss this is clearly more important  hope this works for u, if not I'm sure we can fix it


It worked!!! I didn't even know about the advanced menu.....You guys rock! So happy right now.


----------



## mase1981

urcha said:


> mase1981 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah. Gotcha. Then leave early lol. Tell the boss this is clearly more important
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope this works for u, if not I'm sure we can fix it
> 
> 
> 
> It worked!!! I didn't even know about the advanced menu.....You guys rock! So happy right now.
Click to expand...

Badass man. Enjoy


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> I played assassins creed with the 4k HDR and wasn't all that impressed. Seemed hazy. I was using Harper vision settings. What settings are y'all using
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Try Oledurts settings or tweaking Harpervision. I have been messing around with both and finally ended up with my own settings tweaked for my liking. I also tweaked from oledurts and Harpers. You need to adjust to your setup. Not all are equal. Throw distances, screen type etc all play a role. My HDR looks amazing. Harpervision looked a bit hazy at first, but with some tweaks I got it dialed in nice. 

I ended up with 2 of my own from scratch settings done "bye eye" and I am very happy with it. At the end of the day, it is what looks good to you. 



mase1981 said:


> 23 is known to be very bad, i tested 25 and its working perfectly with improvement from 19a. go ahead and put 25 on it and re-test and report if you dont mind.


I tried .25 Firmware last night. No drastic improvements to report. Sync time is identical as compared to .19. If you time the "no signal screen" I get where you say its around 2 seconds or so. But if you time the whole process. Load an Xbox game, Xbox game is at initial title screen in SDR. Screen goes black to switch to HDR (start counting here) then you get the no signal screen for a few secs, goes black briefly again and then HDR pops up. Total time anywhere from 5-10 seconds. Not complaining, as I am happy with that. It was MUCH MUCH worse with .23


----------



## Juiced46

Also to anyone that is saying HDR gaming using Oledurt or Harpervision looks bad. Don't give up hope! Spend some time tweaking your settings, their settings are not the end all. Remember their settings are calibrated settings to their setups. Use these as a BASE then tweak form there until you like it. Its not hard. Load up an HDR Xbox game, they have test patterns in some and HDR sliders to dial in white and black. Once you get it right it will no doubt look amazing.

These are just a few pictures of HDR games from Xbox One X and PS4. I have zero complaints other then my rear hurting for the raping Epson gave me on their false advertisement.



















[im]http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2322520&stc=1&d=1511915029[/img]


----------



## cflewis

Does anyone know the remote code for turning the PJ on and off? I'd like the Xbox One X to do it, but it only has programmed in the 5030ub, and the code doesn't seem to work.

Any ideas?


----------



## njbrodeur87

Was hoping someone can help, I have the linker and works great on 0.19a with Xbox one x and ps4 pro and hdr movies. However today I went to try a 3d movie and when it loads up movie it says unsupported and displayed nothing and keeps flashing, any ideas on this one? Anyone on this firmware or any firmware try 3d with any issues? I’m using it on the Phillips blueray

Removing the linker and just hdmi cable used, everything works in 3d of course


----------



## robc1976

Here is oledurt (with tweaks) vs Harper vision









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

robc1976 said:


> They suck compared to oledurt for some reason. I thought the same, looked hazy, dusty and lifeless.
> 
> Used these, adjust brightness/contrast although his settings where almost dead on but rooms are different.
> 
> I boosted saturation to 62 and tint to 46
> 
> In xbox HDR menu I did following
> 
> Luminance/nit = 1100
> Paper-white = 230-240
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Could you post your settings from Windows of what you have the linker set to

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> Could you post your settings from Windows of what you have the linker set to
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


I followed the settings here, here are screen shots









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

robc1976 said:


> I followed the settings here, here are screen shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Thx. I will try to dial mine in tomorrow night when I get home. Was frustrated with connection time and not an amazing HDR picture that I've come to love on uhds with these settings that I had given up. Anyone tested COD WW2 with HDR with these settings?

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> Thx. I will try to dial mine in tomorrow night when I get home. Was frustrated with connection time and not an amazing HDR picture that I've come to love on uhds with these settings that I had given up. Anyone tested COD WW2 with HDR with these settings?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Did you use oledurt settings with boosted color saturation? Tweaks in xbox hdr menu also

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

robc1976 said:


> Did you use oledurt settings with boosted color saturation? Tweaks in xbox hdr menu also
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I just used straight Harpervision which has given me a great picture on movies but wasn't good at all for Xbox. I'll give all your suggestions a try tom

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> I just used straight Harpervision which has given me a great picture on movies but wasn't good at all for Xbox. I'll give all your suggestions a try tom
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Its not even close to oledurts

Here is oledurt vs Harper vision









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

robc1976 said:


> Its not even close to oledurts
> 
> Here is oledurt vs Harper vision
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yes that's the hazy terrible picture I was getting. At least with non HDR it was a sharp image i felt like I was losing the sharpness too. Excited to see what the new settings will do for me. I'm theory they should work for every game now?

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> Yes that's the hazy terrible picture I was getting. At least with non HDR it was a sharp image i felt like I was losing the sharpness too. Excited to see what the new settings will do for me. I'm theory they should work for every game now?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


They should

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> Thx. I will try to dial mine in tomorrow night when I get home. Was frustrated with connection time and not an amazing HDR picture that I've come to love on uhds with these settings that I had given up. Anyone tested COD WW2 with HDR with these settings?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


COD looks great in HDR. You need to adjust the sliders IN GAME also. Every HDR game has some sort of HDR adjustment within the game. 



SALadder22FF said:


> Yes that's the hazy terrible picture I was getting. At least with non HDR it was a sharp image i felt like I was losing the sharpness too. Excited to see what the new settings will do for me. I'm theory they should work for every game now?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Harpervision was meant to be for Movies mainly. This is why I stress you need to do your own adjustments. With NON HDR titles, you should NOT be using Harpervision or Oledurts settings.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> COD looks great in HDR. You need to adjust the sliders IN GAME also. Every HDR game has some sort of HDR adjustment within the game.
> 
> 
> 
> Harpervision was meant to be for Movies mainly. This is why I stress you need to do your own adjustments. With NON HDR titles, you should NOT be using Harpervision or Oledurts settings.


Good to know aboiut the movies only. 

I know you've said alot about getting your own settings dialed in just don't feel confident in my own abilities to go through all those settings. That's why I love Harpervision. 



Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> Good to know aboiut the movies only.
> 
> I know you've said alot about getting your own settings dialed in just don't feel confident in my own abilities to go through all those settings. That's why I love Harpervision.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Just try it. You have nothing to lose. Use basic gamma settings and adjust to your preference. Test with an Xbox game and adjust to the sliders in game until you like the look. If another game doesnt look right make slight adjustments in the Epson settings along the way until they all look good. Its so simple.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Juiced46 said:


> Just try it. You have nothing to lose. Use basic gamma settings and adjust to your preference. Test with an Xbox game and adjust to the sliders in game until you like the look. If another game doesnt look right make slight adjustments aling the way until they all look good. Its so simple.


Good point

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> Just try it. You have nothing to lose. Use basic gamma settings and adjust to your preference. Test with an Xbox game and adjust to the sliders in game until you like the look. If another game doesnt look right make slight adjustments in the Epson settings along the way until they all look good. Its so simple.


Agreed, sliders have to be audjusted in game. 

Oledurts settings look amazing in a game actually but you will have to adjust color saturation up to 60 at least inmho. It also needed this for movies also.

I adjusted the following HDR settings in game

Luminance out put from 800 to 1100

Paper white setting from 120 to 235

Brightness is where people get screwed up (usually don't mess with it in game) but it says adjust to where you can barely see symbol is wrong, makes any game to dark. I adjusted up 3 clicks up and it was perfect. 

Oledurts settings are amazing with just minor tweaks to color saturation, and added preset 3 instead of 1. Also must get the brightness and contrast set right via test pattern. He stated in his settings to have it clip at 1200 on contrast. I only needed to adjust contrast 1 click via test pattern. His room is completely light controlled like mine is probably why.

Signal menu has to be changed every time going back and forth

HDMI range = Expanded 
Color space = Auto
Dynamic range = Auto bright 

The amount of detail is amazing.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

robc1976 said:


> Agreed, sliders have to be audjusted in game.
> 
> Oledurts settings look amazing in a game actually but you will have to adjust color saturation up to 60 at least inmho. It also needed this for movies also.
> 
> I adjusted the following HDR settings in game
> 
> Luminance out put from 800 to 1100
> 
> Paper white setting from 120 to 235
> 
> Brightness is where people get screwed up (usually don't mess with it in game) but it says adjust to where you can barely see symbol is wrong, makes any game to dark. I adjusted up 3 clicks up and it was perfect.
> 
> Oledurts settings are amazing with just minor tweaks to color saturation, and added preset 3 instead of 1. Also must get the brightness and contrast set right via test pattern. He stated in his settings to have it clip at 1200 on contrast. I only needed to adjust contrast 1 click via test pattern. His room is completely light controlled like mine is probably why.
> 
> Signal menu has to be changed every time going back and forth
> 
> HDMI range = Expanded
> Color space = Auto
> Dynamic range = Auto bright
> 
> The amount of detail is amazing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I've been working on this for about a week, when I get the time and I concur with Robc and Juiced, I tweaked Oledurt's settings and the AC video depiction on XB1X w/ the HDFury Linker and it was simply awesome. I will check my settings vs your settings Robc and see how close I am to your settings. I know I didn't expand the HDMI range, so I will need to try that. I still use Harpervision (customized tweaked settings for my environment) for my Blu-ray HDR on the Oppo 203.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## exm

What's the latest firmware, and any reason to upgrade?


----------



## robc1976

Azekecse said:


> I've been working on this for about a week, when I get the time and I concur with Robc and Juiced, I tweaked Oledurt's settings and the AC video depiction on XB1X w/ the HDFury Linker and it was simply awesome. I will check my settings vs your settings Robc and see how close I am to your settings. I know I didn't expand the HDMI range, so I will need to try that. I still use Harpervision (customized tweaked settings for my environment) for my Blu-ray HDR on the Oppo 203.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Oledurts latest settings require expanded hdmi range.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

robc1976 said:


> Oledurts latest settings require expanded hdmi range.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Thanks Robc, much appreciated...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## rdlightning01

Just got my 5040, and its shut off by itself about 2-5 min in of playing some ps4 twice now. any thoughts?
Also had a optoma uhd60 and returned it to give this a try and is a clear winner in my book.


----------



## Juiced46

robc1976 said:


> Agreed, sliders have to be audjusted in game.
> 
> Oledurts settings look amazing in a game actually but you will have to adjust color saturation up to 60 at least inmho. It also needed this for movies also.
> 
> I adjusted the following HDR settings in game
> 
> Luminance out put from 800 to 1100
> 
> Paper white setting from 120 to 235
> 
> Brightness is where people get screwed up (usually don't mess with it in game) but it says adjust to where you can barely see symbol is wrong, makes any game to dark. I adjusted up 3 clicks up and it was perfect.
> 
> Oledurts settings are amazing with just minor tweaks to color saturation, and added preset 3 instead of 1. Also must get the brightness and contrast set right via test pattern. He stated in his settings to have it clip at 1200 on contrast. I only needed to adjust contrast 1 click via test pattern. His room is completely light controlled like mine is probably why.
> 
> Signal menu has to be changed every time going back and forth
> 
> HDMI range = Expanded
> Color space = Auto
> Dynamic range = Auto bright
> 
> The amount of detail is amazing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


What I would do is, load up a game with HDR and go to the video settings menu. I would adjust the Epson settings until they image was visible then bumped it up in game. This has been working very well for me. 

For your luminance and paper white settings I am assuming you are using a light meter to determine those values? I do not have one. I have been just adjusting by eye and feel I got it very very close and I am overall happy with my gaming image. At the end of the day, I was happiest with my own settings and I have not spent much time messing with it. I am using just a basic gamma settings right now, but I really do not feel the need for me to do any custom settings even though Harpervisions worked well for me also. It looks good enough for me, detail is great and so are colors. No haze and nothing looks washed out.


----------



## njbrodeur87

Can someone please help me out here. Had my linker for about a week and was working great, all green checkmarks on xbox one x. TOday i turn on it check settings and has messages in red and yellow again just like before linker. I unplugged linker and rechecked settings and everything is as it was set to before. Idk what could have changed all of a sudden as it was working great, any thoughts?


----------



## SALadder22FF

Right off the bat when I hit a to start Assassin's Creed with the Fury, it took 30 seconds for the Epson to get a signal. This is not normal correct?


----------



## mase1981

SALadder22FF said:


> Right off the bat when I hit a to start Assassin's Creed with the Fury, it took 30 seconds for the Epson to get a signal. This is not normal correct?


That seems high, which linker firmware u on?


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> What I would do is, load up a game with HDR and go to the video settings menu. I would adjust the Epson settings until they image was visible then bumped it up in game. This has been working very well for me.
> 
> For your luminance and paper white settings I am assuming you are using a light meter to determine those values? I do not have one. I have been just adjusting by eye and feel I got it very very close and I am overall happy with my gaming image. At the end of the day, I was happiest with my own settings and I have not spent much time messing with it. I am using just a basic gamma settings right now, but I really do not feel the need for me to do any custom settings even though Harpervisions worked well for me also. It looks good enough for me, detail is great and so are colors. No haze and nothing looks washed out.


I adjust the luminance and paper white in game by eye. With ACO they have white question marks on map and you can really tell they where get dull, adjusted until they where brighter and it really brought out the image.

I notice so much more detail and colors with HDR. One of the best purchases was that linker. Without it game looks so fake and colors are very inaccurateinaccurate.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> Right off the bat when I hit a to start Assassin's Creed with the Fury, it took 30 seconds for the Epson to get a signal. This is not normal correct?


Mine was over 2 mins with 19a, switched to 25 and umits less than 10 seconds.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

robc1976 said:


> I adjust the luminance and paper white in game by eye. With ACO they have white question marks on map and you can really tell they where get dull, adjusted until they where brighter and it really brought out the image.
> 
> I notice so much more detail and colors with HDR. One of the best purchases was that linker. Without it game looks so fake and colors are very inaccurateinaccurate.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


With the default oledurt on hdr1 it l looks much richer but a little dim. Still tweaking but the difference isn't the crazy difference I noticed like on Pacific rim sdr vs Harpervision

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> With the default oledurt on hdr1 it l looks much richer but a little dim. Still tweaking but the difference isn't the crazy difference I noticed like on Pacific rim sdr vs Harpervision
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Use auto bright

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Umar_Naseer

I have a Marantz 7703, Xbox X and an Epson 5040UB. I can't get HDR to kick in on the PJ. I called Epson and they said there is no update in the near future for this issue. Anyone know of a work around?


----------



## viperlogic

robc1976 said:


> Use auto bright
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


HDR1 and auto bright are the same AFAIK


----------



## Juiced46

Umar_Naseer said:


> I have a Marantz 7703, Xbox X and an Epson 5040UB. I can't get HDR to kick in on the PJ. I called Epson and they said there no update in the near future for this issue. Anyone know of a work around?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


HDR with gaming, apps, UHD??

If its for gaming, you wont get HDR without a Linker


----------



## Umar_Naseer

Juiced46 said:


> HDR with gaming, apps, UHD??
> 
> If its for gaming, you wont get HDR without a Linker


HDR isn't working with apps like Netflix either. Linker?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Umar_Naseer said:


> HDR isn't working with apps like Netflix either. Linker?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


On the X, UHD and Amazon Prime will do HDR. Netflix and gaming you need a Linker


----------



## Evan201

Juiced46 said:


> On the X, UHD and Amazon Prime will do HDR. Netflix and gaming you need a Linker


I'm getting HDR to pass through Netflix and Amazon as well as Plex app and VUDU using the Nvidia Shield without linker or other hardware. 35' HDMI from mono price. 

With Netflix use recommended settings of 4k / 59hz then do a restart of the shield tv and upon boot up switch over to 4k/24p in the shield HDMI settings. 

Works like a charm from then on. Most of the time I'm setting the Shield to 1080/60hz with 4:2:2 12 Bit BT2020. Looks great and no judder.


----------



## Juiced46

Evan201 said:


> I'm getting HDR to pass through Netflix and Amazon as well as Plex app and VUDU using the Nvidia Shield without linker or other hardware. 35' HDMI from mono price.
> 
> With Netflix use recommended settings of 4k / 59hz then do a restart of the shield tv and upon boot up switch over to 4k/24p in the shield HDMI settings.
> 
> Works like a charm from then on. Most of the time I'm setting the Shield to 1080/60hz with 4:2:2 12 Bit BT2020. Looks great and no judder.


I am talking about the Xbox not the Shield


----------



## SALadder22FF

Evan201 said:


> I'm getting HDR to pass through Netflix and Amazon as well as Plex app and VUDU using the Nvidia Shield without linker or other hardware. 35' HDMI from mono price.
> 
> With Netflix use recommended settings of 4k / 59hz then do a restart of the shield tv and upon boot up switch over to 4k/24p in the shield HDMI settings.
> 
> Works like a charm from then on. Most of the time I'm setting the Shield to 1080/60hz with 4:2:2 12 Bit BT2020. Looks great and no judder.


HDR on Netflix through shield noticeable difference?

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## raf77

I have a question to Roku ultra or premier, users.
Do you have HDR working from Amazon Video on this projector?
I heard that netflix HDR working only at 60Hz, but also heard that Amazon Video HDR working fine at 24Hz.
Roku auto detection, detected my projector as 4k HDR 30Hz capable and is correctly switching to 24Hz, when playing movie.
So, why no HDR?
Any ideas?


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys, I have a question about using the Linker with my pc. I’m getting 4K 60hz HDR on both my Pro and One X no problems. Notice a little bit of lag when switching between 4K and other resolutions but nothing more than a few seconds. The only issue I have right now is with my pc. It continues to show the native resolution at 1920x1080p. I can switch it to 3840x2160 but it’s weird that it thinks my native resolution is 1080p. Either way, anytime I try to play a game, the screen goes blank. I can hear it but no picture. If alt tab out of the game and then go back to it, I can sometimes get a picture. If I change my pc resolution back down to 1080P, it will start the game without any issue. If my resolution is set to 4K, that’s when it blanks out. Lastly, when I fired up Batman Arkham Knight, I had my pc resolution set to 1080p. When I went into graphics settings, the resolution showed 2560x1440. So confused. Lol. Is there a setting in the Linker I need to change for my pc to show in 4K?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## micky_macca

I know most people seem to think the Harper Vision settings are best for HDR content, however my 9300 is located in my bedroom (in Australia) and the high power mode is not only loud but makes the room a bit too hot.

Oledurt has two different settings with a medium power mode in the pdf of different users settings, are these a good compromise if I don't want to use high power mode?

Unfortunately I didn't see where they were posted and in what context so I am not sure why there are two and if they should be used at different times etc.

Any input from you regulars?

Thanks

P.S If anyone in here is from Australia and has had the projector calibrated, can you recommend anyone and let me know if they just did SDR or is it possible to do HDR calibrations as well?


----------



## antney79

Having a real struggle deciding between the 5040 and Sony 65es. Any help would be a help. Went to a store that had both displayed and the Sony looked brighter and crisper. I just don’t want to lose out if blue ray would be better on the 5040 since that is most likely what I would be watching most of the time. 

Also sometimes I feel they can calibrated it a way to make one look better to help sell that brand. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ruggercb

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys, I have a question about using the Linker with my pc. I’m getting 4K 60hz HDR on both my Pro and One X no problems. Notice a little bit of lag when switching between 4K and other resolutions but nothing more than a few seconds. The only issue I have right now is with my pc. It continues to show the native resolution at 1920x1080p. I can switch it to 3840x2160 but it’s weird that it thinks my native resolution is 1080p. Either way, anytime I try to play a game, the screen goes blank. I can hear it but no picture. If alt tab out of the game and then go back to it, I can sometimes get a picture. If I change my pc resolution back down to 1080P, it will start the game without any issue. If my resolution is set to 4K, that’s when it blanks out. Lastly, when I fired up Batman Arkham Knight, I had my pc resolution set to 1080p. When I went into graphics settings, the resolution showed 2560x1440. So confused. Lol. Is there a setting in the Linker I need to change for my pc to show in 4K?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I’m in the same boat, sort of. PS4 pro is giving 4k hdr no problem, but on PC is another story. I run at 3840x1600 with an A lens, the PJ sees it as 1080p. Games run fine at this res, but once I turn on hdr I lose the custom resolutions and hdr only works at 4k or 1080p. Once I quit the game and am back on the desktop I get the same custom res and hdr working(ugly washed out desktop). Projector tells me it’s getting a 1080p 12 bit hdr signal. 

We have to be able to fool something somehow right?!? It almost seems like if we could just tell the linker to leave things alone but inject 8 bit hdr we’d be set. I don’t know if this post is helpful at all, but I’m glad to see I’m not the only one with pc woes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Sorel

> Oledurts latest settings require expanded hdmi range.


Trying to find Oledurt's and Dave Harper's latest settings can be challenging even if you have read the entire thread. When I was a moderator, I always recommended (to the thread starter) keeping the first post up to date with the most common information that people would ask in order to make things easy for people to find, as well as keeping the size of the thread down by reducing the amount of redundant questions.

Does anyone know of a repository somewhere that fills this need? I need to find a copy of Dave Harper's latest settings, and I would also like to try out Oledurt's latest.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Bob Sorel said:


> Trying to find Oledurt's and Dave Harper's latest settings can be challenging even if you have read the entire thread. When I was a moderator, I always recommended (to the thread starter) keeping the first post up to date with the most common information that people would ask in order to make things easy for people to find, as well as keeping the size of the thread down by reducing the amount of redundant questions.
> 
> Does anyone know of a repository somewhere that fills this need? I need to find a copy of Dave Harper's latest settings, and I would also like to try out Oledurt's latest.


Ht guy posted an attachment showing the summary of various settings:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352
There's a separate thread on using an instrumented approach to calibration:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html


----------



## Globespy

antney79 said:


> Having a real struggle deciding between the 5040 and Sony 65es. Any help would be a help. Went to a store that had both displayed and the Sony looked brighter and crisper. I just don’t want to lose out if blue ray would be better on the 5040 since that is most likely what I would be watching most of the time.
> 
> Also sometimes I feel they can calibrated it a way to make one look better to help sell that brand.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you are mainly watching regular BluRay then the 45ES would be plenty good.
If it helps you, I was in the same boat and the reasons I didn't buy the 5040 were:

1. I think this 'e-shift/faux-K' thing has a very limited lifespan - 2 years and native 4K PJ's will be the norm at around the same price as the 5040.
2. The 5040 has a lot of compromises regarding HDR/4K compatibility - if you game or play 4K content on one of the newer consoles with 4K BluRay players then it's not ideal
3. The 45ES is tried and tested, it delivers an arguably better overall image beyond it's low price point of $1500-1600 depending where you buy it from.
4. The 65ES from reading countless reviews just didn't seem to offer much over the 45ES to justify it's $1300 higher price point - close to double
5. The 65ES will have limited shelf life when 4K content and PJ's become more widespread
6. I can make a case for upgrading in 2-3 years with the 45ES, selling it for maybe a 50% loss, I can live with that as the cost of entertainment

I know that it's tough to be objective especially when you post in a thread about specific PJ's because most have already spent their money and kinda have to put on the rose tinted spectacles to some extent. It's just human nature.

Both the 5040 and the 65ES are great units, but they do different things.
If you are absolutely set on one or the other, I would likely buy the 5040 if you don't need to game and can accept the faux-K and it's HDR limitations (8 bit with it's banding issues). It at least offers picture enhancement that can do a better job of handling 4K content - the 65ES just won't handle it as it's 1080p.
But check out the 45ES if you just need a solid PJ that's almost perfectly calibrated out of the box (the 'Reference' setting needs very little changes - it's that close), it will meet all your non-4K BluRay needs and will buy you time until this faux-K fad vanishes in 2-3 years tops. Plus, if you game on it, its 22ms latency is industry leading and you won't find much better on any PJ at any price (I think there's a short throw Optoma that's about the same game latency but not the same for movie home theater image).

Hope that helps.


----------



## antney79

Globespy said:


> If you are mainly watching regular BluRay then the 45ES would be plenty good.
> 
> If it helps you, I was in the same boat and the reasons I didn't buy the 5040 were:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. I think this 'e-shift/faux-K' thing has a very limited lifespan - 2 years and native 4K PJ's will be the norm at around the same price as the 5040.
> 
> 2. The 5040 has a lot of compromises regarding HDR/4K compatibility - if you game or play 4K content on one of the newer consoles with 4K BluRay players then it's not ideal
> 
> 3. The 45ES is tried and tested, it delivers an arguably better overall image beyond it's low price point of $1500-1600 depending where you buy it from.
> 
> 4. The 65ES from reading countless reviews just didn't seem to offer much over the 45ES to justify it's $1300 higher price point - close to double
> 
> 5. The 65ES will have limited shelf life when 4K content and PJ's become more widespread
> 
> 6. I can make a case for upgrading in 2-3 years with the 45ES, selling it for maybe a 50% loss, I can live with that as the cost of entertainment
> 
> 
> 
> I know that it's tough to be objective especially when you post in a thread about specific PJ's because most have already spent their money and kinda have to put on the rose tinted spectacles to some extent. It's just human nature.
> 
> 
> 
> Both the 5040 and the 65ES are great units, but they do different things.
> 
> If you are absolutely set on one or the other, I would likely buy the 5040 if you don't need to game and can accept the faux-K and it's HDR limitations (8 bit with it's banding issues). It at least offers picture enhancement that can do a better job of handling 4K content - the 65ES just won't handle it as it's 1080p.
> 
> But check out the 45ES if you just need a solid PJ that's almost perfectly calibrated out of the box (the 'Reference' setting needs very little changes - it's that close), it will meet all your non-4K BluRay needs and will buy you time until this faux-K fad vanishes in 2-3 years tops. Plus, if you game on it, its 22ms latency is industry leading and you won't find much better on any PJ at any price (I think there's a short throw Optoma that's about the same game latency but not the same for movie home theater image).
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps.




We’ll sort of helps. Your saying it’s not worth spending money on the 65es. You would pick between the 45es and 5040. I don’t mind spending the 500 more for 5040 then to get the faux 4K. 

I guess I’m not clear on hdr and if it’s important. Gaming I might play a little bit won’t be the main purpose. What affects does the 5040 have if I want to play PlayStation on it?

I will also be watching live sports as well if not movies. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Globespy

antney79 said:


> We’ll sort of helps. Your saying it’s not worth spending money on the 65es. You would pick between the 45es and 5040. I don’t mind spending the 500 more for 5040 then to get the faux 4K.
> 
> I guess I’m not clear on hdr and if it’s important. Gaming I might play a little bit won’t be the main purpose. What affects does the 5040 have if I want to play PlayStation on it?
> 
> I will also be watching live sports as well if not movies.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The issue that the 5040 has regarding HDR is that Epson made a stupid decision on a cheap part and chose an HDMI chipset that is limited to 8-bit HDR at 4K 60FPS. They should have put in an HDMI chipset that supports 18GB/s, which is needed for 4:2:2 HDR. The one they put in only does 10Gb/s.

What this means is that if you want to view 4K HDR 60 content via your PS Pro/XB1S/XB1X then you will need to purchase a device called HDFury Linker which essentially converts the 10-bit HDR output into a downgraded 8-bit HDR ouput. 8-bit HDR has banding issues (you can google this) which is why the console manufacturers didn't offer that.
This limitation won't impact you if you play 4K HDR movies, but I think there's not that many standalone players that work with the Epson from memory - the 8-bit thing again. Original (old) Bluray was 8-bit.

Lumens is not ideal either for HDR (some will argue this but there's enough evidence out there to suggest it could do with being brighter to really deliver HDR).

If you are not a big gamer then I don't think you will notice.

I would go out and actually see both in the flesh if I were you. A lot of people find the image differences between a faux-K image and a really well balanced/calibrated 1080p PJ not all that different, especially when you are sitting more than 10 ft from a very large screen. The human eye can only see so much. Again, this is something you need to actually go out and see at an AV store. Be sure to use the same source content (BluRay) when viewing different units as stores often use optimized content to sell individual devices.

Good luck!


----------



## Bob Sorel

> Ht guy posted an attachment showing the summary of various settings:
> Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread
> There's a separate thread on using an instrumented approach to calibration:
> Calibrating HDR on Epson 5040/6040 projectors


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html
Thanks, Domenic! I'll give them a try.


----------



## gkman1

*Default settings for Epson 5040UB*

Does anyone know where to go to all the factory setting values for the Epson 5040UB? I did reset them, but want to make sure they are the same? Thanks!


----------



## JewDaddy

ruggercb said:


> I’m in the same boat, sort of. PS4 pro is giving 4k hdr no problem, but on PC is another story. I run at 3840x1600 with an A lens, the PJ sees it as 1080p. Games run fine at this res, but once I turn on hdr I lose the custom resolutions and hdr only works at 4k or 1080p. Once I quit the game and am back on the desktop I get the same custom res and hdr working(ugly washed out desktop). Projector tells me it’s getting a 1080p 12 bit hdr signal.
> 
> We have to be able to fool something somehow right?!? It almost seems like if we could just tell the linker to leave things alone but inject 8 bit hdr we’d be set. I don’t know if this post is helpful at all, but I’m glad to see I’m not the only one with pc woes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Your definitely not the only one with pc problems my friend. This is so weird. I was really hoping that someone who’s been using this successfully can chime in on how to make sure the settings work with a pc. Doesn’t make sense that it works perfect with my one X and Pro but not my pc. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Globespy

JewDaddy said:


> Your definitely not the only one with pc problems my friend. This is so weird. I was really hoping that someone who’s been using this successfully can chime in on how to make sure the settings work with a pc. Doesn’t make sense that it works perfect with my one X and Pro but not my pc.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I found this article, not sure if it helps but figured I share since it was an interesting read!
https://www.rockpapershotgun.com/2016/09/22/hdr-gaming-and-the-pc-its-complicated/

Perhaps some of the important parts:

"Indeed, a list of things your display probably needs to be considered to have basic HDR capability is almost overwhelming:

– HDMI 2.0a or DisplayPort 1.4
– 10-bit per channel colour
– Ability to display very nearly all of the Rec. 2020 or DCI P3 colour spaces
– At least 1000cd/m2 brightness combined with black levels below 0.05cd/m2"


----------



## bekindrewind

Advise needed. What projector?
Friend has a 200" diagonal screen, 16x9 format, 1.1 gain, Matte white. Brand is Silver Ticket. (not a high end screen, it's what he has)
https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-169200 

His room is large, dark, hardly any ambient light.
Projector can be ceiling mounted and as far back as 40' from the screen.
Watching Blu-ray and OTA hd only. Doesn't need 4K.

My assumption... Most projector most likely will end up being around 20' from the screen in order to fill screen. Most likely because of that distance, more Lumens the better?
But also not so bright that blacks get washed out.

Would the Epson 5040ub/6040ub be a good fit? More Lumens then most projectors, but concerned about how black will the black be?
I've read that JVC's have great blacks, but not sure if they are bright enough for this 200" screen.

Not suggesting the Epson isn't a good fit, asking if it is or if another projector will be a better fit because of the size and screen material.

Looking forward to your thoughts.


----------



## JewDaddy

This is crazy. I literally can’t open any kind of app or game on my pc with the Linker. The screen just goes black. I tried using Kodi Media Player and it went black. I tried both 4K and 1080p resolutions still a black screen. No idea what’s going on. Would love to get some help or advice. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NRGIZE

is there a 9300 thread? can't find it cheers


----------



## Natrix1973

JewDaddy said:


> This is crazy. I literally can’t open any kind of app or game on my pc with the Linker. The screen just goes black. I tried using Kodi Media Player and it went black. I tried both 4K and 1080p resolutions still a black screen. No idea what’s going on. Would love to get some help or advice. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Maybe try the actual Linker owners thread that HDFURY provides support in?

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2905929-hdfury-linker-owners-thread.html


----------



## ruggercb

JewDaddy said:


> This is crazy. I literally can’t open any kind of app or game on my pc with the Linker. The screen just goes black. I tried using Kodi Media Player and it went black. I tried both 4K and 1080p resolutions still a black screen. No idea what’s going on. Would love to get some help or advice. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I was messing around with the linker last night and used the same settings for PC as I used for PS4 pro(4k60 4:4:4 all sound edid and downscale to 4k60 4:2:0 8 bit). It was working pretty consistently, after I set the in game resolution. Tried it on BF1 and Shadow of War and it worked great.

Doesn’t solve my custom resolution issue; that may be something that toastyx’s custom resolution utility might fix.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tweakophyte

Evan201 said:


> I'm getting HDR to pass through Netflix and Amazon as well as Plex app and VUDU using the Nvidia Shield without linker or other hardware. 35' HDMI from mono price.
> 
> With Netflix use recommended settings of 4k / 59hz then do a restart of the shield tv and upon boot up switch over to 4k/24p in the shield HDMI settings.
> 
> Works like a charm from then on. Most of the time I'm setting the Shield to 1080/60hz with 4:2:2 12 Bit BT2020. Looks great and no judder.


Which specific monoprice cable did you use? 

Thanks,


----------



## Tweakophyte

I am getting ready to pull a new HDMI cable in my wall. I've been reading the various cable threads and am wondering if anyone has experienced any syncing issues (slow, delayed, fickle) with the unpowered, active chipset cables. I am looking at the Ruprio and the monoprice slimline runs, at 35 ft (or less). I am also considering a 15-20 ft run with keystone jacks at either end (like the RiteAC) and very short, monoprice 4K cert cables. For that long pull I would just use a nice thick Belden or a slimmer version with a chipset.

Again, my main concern is the chipset cables create additional syncing issues.

Edit: All components will pass through a Denon x6300h

Thanks,


----------



## njbrodeur87

So I got a Apple TV 4K with linker hooked up. It’s showing 8 bit 4 2 0, is that all as it should?

Also it seems Apple TV n projector info always shows hdr signal even if the content isn’t hdr like old movies or hulu etc. does this mean with Apple TV I should always use my hdr settings? Cause that’s the signal it shows even though content isn’t hdr?


----------



## fritz11

Hi!
I dont use the Linker, but the Vertex.
I have diffrent Settings for SDR,Uhd and HDR on the 6040.
But if i save them the main Settings are saved but
The HDMI-HDR Settings not.
So everytime i Switch between the Settings i must 
correct the HDR autosettings.
Have someone the same Problem?
About 4k/Hdr with the XboxX!
My personal Settings
are i dont like 4k/Hdr 8Bit on the epson and the XBX!
A better Picture is to get 1080p/Hdr 12 Bit.
No Bendings and the Colours ar WOW!!
Cu and Thanks,Fritz


----------



## fritz11

Juiced46 said:


> Also to anyone that is saying HDR gaming using Oledurt or Harpervision looks bad. Don't give up hope! Spend some time tweaking your settings, their settings are not the end all. Remember their settings are calibrated settings to their setups. Use these as a BASE then tweak form there until you like it. Its not hard. Load up an HDR Xbox game, they have test patterns in some and HDR sliders to dial in white and black. Once you get it right it will no doubt look amazing.
> 
> These are just a few pictures of HDR games from Xbox One X and PS4. I have zero complaints other then my rear hurting for the raping Epson gave me on their false advertisement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [im]http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2322520&stc=1&d=1511915029[/img]



Is this 4k/Hdr 8bit ore 1080p/Hdr 12 bit with the linker?
Thanks
Fritz


----------



## rjguk

NRGIZE said:


> is there a 9300 thread? can't find it cheers


This thread should cover it, the 5040/6040/9300 names differ according to the part of the world they are sold in, and also whether they come with a mount, extra lamp, and in a black or white casing.


----------



## sddp

Globespy said:


> The issue that the 5040 has regarding HDR is that Epson made a stupid decision on a cheap part and chose an HDMI chipset that is limited to 8-bit HDR at 4K 60FPS. They should have put in an HDMI chipset that supports 18GB/s, which is needed for 4:2:2 HDR. The one they put in only does 10Gb/s.



Actually I think it was a wise financial decision. with the 5040, it sold a LOT and wet everyones appetite for true HRD. IMHO their next model will come out with TRUE HDR and 18GB/s, so everyone with a 5040 will go run and buy one and all those who were waiting or on the fence will also buy one and they'll sell millions all over again. 

Apple, XBOX, PS4, etc all do this switch bait game. Yes, it's annoying, but the shareholders all need the extra $$ to renew their BMW leases every 5 days


----------



## Juiced46

fritz11 said:


> Is this 4k/Hdr 8bit ore 1080p/Hdr 12 bit with the linker?
> Thanks
> Fritz


It is 4K/60 HDR 8 bit


----------



## Globespy

sddp said:


> Globespy said:
> 
> 
> 
> The issue that the 5040 has regarding HDR is that Epson made a stupid decision on a cheap part and chose an HDMI chipset that is limited to 8-bit HDR at 4K 60FPS. They should have put in an HDMI chipset that supports 18GB/s, which is needed for 4:2:2 HDR. The one they put in only does 10Gb/s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I think it was a wise financial decision. with the 5040, it sold a LOT and wet everyones appetite for true HRD. IMHO their next model will come out with TRUE HDR and 18GB/s, so everyone with a 5040 will go run and buy one and all those who were waiting or on the fence will also buy one and they'll sell millions all over again.
> 
> Apple, XBOX, PS4, etc all do this switch bait game. Yes, it's annoying, but the shareholders all need the extra $$ to renew their BMW leases every 5 days
Click to expand...

Of course, wise being subjective and a nice distracting word for screwing over customers.


----------



## joshnotebooks

My Epson 5040UB is 40 days old. I was playing Xbox One X and it just shut off. It didn't power down because the lens cover is still open. I've tried plugging into multiple different outlets and Nothing. It won't respond to the power button and no lights light up. 

Any suggestions? I spoke with Epson support, but apparently a projector turning on needs to be escalated and the department that handles more than try a different outlet is already closed. 

Does leaving it unplugged for a certain amount of time help or anything else?


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Well Apple as finally released TvOS 11.2 for the apple tv4k and so far so good.


I set 4k 60hz SDR as my "standard" resolution, went to netflix selected a 4k HDR show and low and behold screen went black / came back infos switched to 4k HDR bt 2020 24hz.

Went to a regular 1080p show and it was upscaled by the ATV tho as it still showed the 4k feed on the 5040 info.

set resolution at 1080p SDR went to the same 4k HDR show and it switched to 1080p HDR.

So basically Dynamic range and frame rate are respected but resolution is still dependent on your settings. I havent found a way to turn upscaling off. 

I'll test plex and other stuff tomorrow as the last 3 episodes of Punisher are calling my name right now


----------



## Stephen1254

*Darbee Vision?*

Does anyone use a Darbee enhancer with this projector?

I just set up my new 5040UB, and since I've used this enhancer for several years, I left it in the system. Initial impressions were not very good with the 4-2 enhancement, but backing the Darbee down a few notches - from 50 to 30 - produced a pretty good picture.

It's still very early days, obviously, and I've got a lot of tuning to do. I'm just trying to figure out whether to do my tuning with the Darbee in the chain or not.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Stephen1254 said:


> Does anyone use a Darbee enhancer with this projector?
> 
> I just set up my new 5040UB, and since I've used this enhancer for several years, I left it in the system. Initial impressions were not very good with the 4-2 enhancement, but backing the Darbee down a few notches - from 50 to 30 - produced a pretty good picture.
> 
> It's still very early days, obviously, and I've got a lot of tuning to do. I'm just trying to figure out whether to do my tuning with the Darbee in the chain or not.


Epson's Image Enhancement works well for me, so I didn't use Darbee with it. Using Darbee would also prevent the Epson from receiving 4K inputs.


----------



## Peter DS

*Cable*

I am a new owner, and will be getting the new projector unit next week (upgrading from a BenQ 1075+)

I am running a "FISUAL Hollywood Ultimate 5m High Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet" from my Yamaha RX 679 to my projector currently and I am wondering whether this cable will have to be upgraded for it to work with the Epson 5040/4000? In the amazon description for the cable, here are some highlights:

"As a High Speed certified cable the Fisual Hollywood Ultimate is able to carry all signal types applicable to HDMI 1.4 devices which can take advantage of data rates right up to 10.2 Gbps.
This interconnect is ready to carry the very latest 4k resolutions flawlessly as well as 3D and HD audio codecs. This cable also employs a pure coating of silver on each of the solid copper conductors to maximise conductivity.
4k & 1080p resolutions guaranteed, Compatible with HDMI v1.4 devices and all previous versions, Available in 7 lengths from 0.75 to 5 metres
24 carat gold plated connector body, High purity SP-OFC conductors, Data transfer rate of 10.2 Gb/s guaranteed, Slimline flexible cable constructions"


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Peter DS said:


> I am a new owner, and will be getting the new projector unit next week (upgrading from a BenQ 1075+)
> 
> I am running a "FISUAL Hollywood Ultimate 5m High Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet" from my Yamaha RX 679 to my projector currently and I am wondering whether this cable will have to be upgraded for it to work with the Epson 5040/4000? In the amazon description for the cable, here are some highlights:
> 
> "As a High Speed certified cable the Fisual Hollywood Ultimate is able to carry all signal types applicable to HDMI 1.4 devices which can take advantage of data rates right up to 10.2 Gbps.
> This interconnect is ready to carry the very latest 4k resolutions flawlessly as well as 3D and HD audio codecs. This cable also employs a pure coating of silver on each of the solid copper conductors to maximise conductivity.
> 4k & 1080p resolutions guaranteed, Compatible with HDMI v1.4 devices and all previous versions, Available in 7 lengths from 0.75 to 5 metres
> 24 carat gold plated connector body, High purity SP-OFC conductors, Data transfer rate of 10.2 Gb/s guaranteed, Slimline flexible cable constructions"



So basically your cable like the Epson 5040UB is limited to 10.2 Gb/s so you "should" get everything the Pj can get. 

I have multiple cables from my former setup (similar to yours in specs) and everything works fine. 

But just to be safe you should buy a cable made of diamonds like this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Quest-Diamond-HDMI-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M




honestly you should be fine.


----------



## schamber

Tweakophyte said:


> I am getting ready to pull a new HDMI cable in my wall. I've been reading the various cable threads and am wondering if anyone has experienced any syncing issues (slow, delayed, fickle) with the unpowered, active chipset cables. I am looking at the Ruprio and the monoprice slimline runs, at 35 ft (or less). I am also considering a 15-20 ft run with keystone jacks at either end (like the RiteAC) and very short, monoprice 4K cert cables. For that long pull I would just use a nice thick Belden or a slimmer version with a chipset.
> 
> 
> 
> Again, my main concern is the chipset cables create additional syncing issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: All components will pass through a Denon x6300h
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,




Been using the RUIPRO 20M/65ft for 6 months. It’s worked great. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Epson 6040UB; Marantz AV8801; B&K THX 30; Sony UBP-X800; Snell Signature C7 speakers; Snell ICS 24 sub; Stewart 1.1 110"


----------



## amarkow

The_Forth_Man said:


> So basically your cable like the Epson 5040UB is limited to 10.2 Gb/s so you "should" get everything the Pj can get.
> 
> I have multiple cables from my former setup (similar to yours in specs) and everything works fine.
> 
> But just to be safe you should buy a cable made of diamonds like this one:
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Quest-Diamond-HDMI-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M
> 
> 
> 
> 
> honestly you should be fine.


Only 3 of those babies left in stock. Wondering if a TV is included.


----------



## fritz11

Juiced46 said:


> It is 4K/60 HDR 8 bit



Hi!
Would you like share your Settings on the Epson?
Maybe you can make a Few Fotos from the Screen
Inc with the Gamma an Colour Settings!
Cu and Thanks,
Fritz


----------



## robc1976

joshnotebooks said:


> My Epson 5040UB is 40 days old. I was playing Xbox One X and it just shut off. It didn't power down because the lens cover is still open. I've tried plugging into multiple different outlets and Nothing. It won't respond to the power button and no lights light up.
> 
> Any suggestions? I spoke with Epson support, but apparently a projector turning on needs to be escalated and the department that handles more than try a different outlet is already closed.
> 
> Does leaving it unplugged for a certain amount of time help or anything else?


Happened to me before, was the power supply

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## NetViper

Got my linker. The HDR is looks pretty darn good. It isn't as good as my OLED, but its not THAT far off. Very happy so far. I still need to tweak the settings to get the best picture.


----------



## Jcniper

Juiced46 said:


> It is 4K/60 HDR 8 bit


Any idea why the linker shuts off when I switch over to my cable box? My PS4 and xbox work just fine, but when I switch over to my cable box it's not detecting a signal.


----------



## OMXP

NetViper said:


> Got my linker. The HDR is looks pretty darn good. It isn't as good as my OLED, but its not THAT far off. Very happy so far. I still need to tweak the settings to get the best picture.


Hi.. Where do you put the linker in your setup? xbox>linker>epson? 

the linker has 2 input and 1 output then how do you get the sound from your AV?


thanks


----------



## NetViper

OMXP said:


> Hi.. Where do you put the linker in your setup? xbox>linker>epson?
> 
> the linker has 2 input and 1 output then how do you get the sound from your AV?
> 
> 
> thanks


I was doing it quick last night so I went from receiver (HDMI OUT) to linker to projector.


----------



## OMXP

NetViper said:


> I was doing it quick last night so I went from receiver (HDMI OUT) to linker to projector.


Why did you get the linker instead of integral?
good luck with your settings ..

thanks


----------



## achanonier

The_Forth_Man said:


> Well Apple as finally released TvOS 11.2 for the apple tv4k and so far so good.
> 
> 
> I set 4k 60hz SDR as my "standard" resolution, went to netflix selected a 4k HDR show and low and behold screen went black / came back infos switched to 4k HDR bt 2020 24hz.
> 
> Went to a regular 1080p show and it was upscaled by the ATV tho as it still showed the 4k feed on the 5040 info.
> 
> set resolution at 1080p SDR went to the same 4k HDR show and it switched to 1080p HDR.
> 
> So basically Dynamic range and frame rate are respected but resolution is still dependent on your settings. I havent found a way to turn upscaling off.
> 
> I'll test plex and other stuff tomorrow as the last 3 episodes of Punisher are calling my name right now


Hi that's good news that a streamer can finallay play Netflix 4k 24p HDR for our PJ.
I'd like to know how plex behave with 4k mkv and HD audio tracks ?


----------



## fritz11

OMXP said:


> Why did you get the linker instead of integral?
> good luck with your settings ..
> 
> thanks



With The Integral,you can not scale down from 60 fps 4k/hdr 10Bit to 60 fps 4K/hdr 8Bit!
So you can not Play 60fps 4k/hdr on the Epson with the Xbox1X!
For that you Need the Linker or the Vertex!
Cu
Fritz


----------



## carp

achanonier said:


> Hi that's good news that a streamer can finallay play Netflix 4k 24p HDR for our PJ.
> I'd like to know how plex behave with 4k mkv and HD audio tracks ?


So all that is missing is Atmos right? As soon as the Apple 4k tv gets Atmos we will then get it all from Netflix right?


----------



## john barlow

Globespy said:


> If you are mainly watching regular BluRay then the 45ES would be plenty good.
> If it helps you, I was in the same boat and the reasons I didn't buy the 5040 were:
> 
> 1. I think this 'e-shift/faux-K' thing has a very limited lifespan - 2 years and native 4K PJ's will be the norm at around the same price as the 5040.
> 2. The 5040 has a lot of compromises regarding HDR/4K compatibility - if you game or play 4K content on one of the newer consoles with 4K BluRay players then it's not ideal
> 3. The 45ES is tried and tested, it delivers an arguably better overall image beyond it's low price point of $1500-1600 depending where you buy it from.
> 4. The 65ES from reading countless reviews just didn't seem to offer much over the 45ES to justify it's $1300 higher price point - close to double
> 5. The 65ES will have limited shelf life when 4K content and PJ's become more widespread
> 6. I can make a case for upgrading in 2-3 years with the 45ES, selling it for maybe a 50% loss, I can live with that as the cost of entertainment
> 
> I know that it's tough to be objective especially when you post in a thread about specific PJ's because most have already spent their money and kinda have to put on the rose tinted spectacles to some extent. It's just human nature.
> 
> Both the 5040 and the 65ES are great units, but they do different things.
> If you are absolutely set on one or the other, I would likely buy the 5040 if you don't need to game and can accept the faux-K and it's HDR limitations (8 bit with it's banding issues). It at least offers picture enhancement that can do a better job of handling 4K content - the 65ES just won't handle it as it's 1080p.
> But check out the 45ES if you just need a solid PJ that's almost perfectly calibrated out of the box (the 'Reference' setting needs very little changes - it's that close), it will meet all your non-4K BluRay needs and will buy you time until this faux-K fad vanishes in 2-3 years tops. Plus, if you game on it, its 22ms latency is industry leading and you won't find much better on any PJ at any price (I think there's a short throw Optoma that's about the same game latency but not the same for movie home theater image).
> 
> Hope that helps.


 Nothing personal friend but, you don't own a 5040 projector so, you are submitting your opinion not from an experienced owner's point of view but just regurgitating what you've read in the press regarding this topic. I love my 5040! Yes, there were some early growing pains that early adopters often go through. After 11 months and 2 firmware updates, the 5040 is playing real nice with my associated gear, mainly, the Oppo 203 UHD disc player and I'm in Cinema Heaven. DVD, Blu Ray, UHD Blu ray all look fabulous in our cinema. If you haven't had months of experience with this projector, you are hardly qualified to comment, IMO. Your comments could cause an interested projector buyer, to miss out on a really great projector. Nothing personal, just my .02 Cheers.


----------



## Globespy

john barlow said:


> Globespy said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you are mainly watching regular BluRay then the 45ES would be plenty good.
> If it helps you, I was in the same boat and the reasons I didn't buy the 5040 were:
> 
> 1. I think this 'e-shift/faux-K' thing has a very limited lifespan - 2 years and native 4K PJ's will be the norm at around the same price as the 5040.
> 2. The 5040 has a lot of compromises regarding HDR/4K compatibility - if you game or play 4K content on one of the newer consoles with 4K BluRay players then it's not ideal
> 3. The 45ES is tried and tested, it delivers an arguably better overall image beyond it's low price point of $1500-1600 depending where you buy it from.
> 4. The 65ES from reading countless reviews just didn't seem to offer much over the 45ES to justify it's $1300 higher price point - close to double
> 5. The 65ES will have limited shelf life when 4K content and PJ's become more widespread
> 6. I can make a case for upgrading in 2-3 years with the 45ES, selling it for maybe a 50% loss, I can live with that as the cost of entertainment
> 
> I know that it's tough to be objective especially when you post in a thread about specific PJ's because most have already spent their money and kinda have to put on the rose tinted spectacles to some extent. It's just human nature.
> 
> Both the 5040 and the 65ES are great units, but they do different things.
> If you are absolutely set on one or the other, I would likely buy the 5040 if you don't need to game and can accept the faux-K and it's HDR limitations (8 bit with it's banding issues). It at least offers picture enhancement that can do a better job of handling 4K content - the 65ES just won't handle it as it's 1080p.
> But check out the 45ES if you just need a solid PJ that's almost perfectly calibrated out of the box (the 'Reference' setting needs very little changes - it's that close), it will meet all your non-4K BluRay needs and will buy you time until this faux-K fad vanishes in 2-3 years tops. Plus, if you game on it, its 22ms latency is industry leading and you won't find much better on any PJ at any price (I think there's a short throw Optoma that's about the same game latency but not the same for movie home theater image).
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing personal friend but, you don't own a 5040 projector so, you are submitting your opinion not from an experienced owner's point of view but just regurgitating what you've read in the press regarding this topic. I love my 5040! Yes, there were some early growing pains that early adopters often go through. After 11 months and 2 firmware updates, the 5040 is playing real nice with my associated gear, mainly, the Oppo 203 UHD disc player and I'm in Cinema Heaven. DVD, Blu Ray, UHD Blu ray all look fabulous in our cinema. If you haven't had months of experience with this projector, you are hardly qualified to comment, IMO. Your comments could cause an interested projector buyer, to miss out on a really great projector. Nothing personal, just my .02 Cheers.
Click to expand...

I returned the 5040 because of all the compromises I would need to make based on my usage and equipment. 
It throws a nice picture, but when similarly priced native 4K units are coming in the next couple of years and the new HDMI 2.1 standard will be in those units, the $1000 ($1250 if you factor in the HDfury many will need to purchase) difference between the 45ES and the 5040 made my decision when I know I will be upgrading.

Respectfully, I think my post was far more objective than yours unless you have a 45ES? It's great you love your projector, good for you man! But I didn't see anything but subjective sales talk, ignoring all the very real issues. 
I could care less what people purchase, it's a personal choice. 
But these forums are to help potential buyers understand all the pros and cons. Not for owners to sugar coat the products and ignore the limitations just because that's what they spent their dime on. 
Cheers.


----------



## ed3120

I've been following the 4K/HDR through nVidia Shield comments and I have a few questions. I'm a TV/movie watcher and a very light gamer:

I understand that 4K/HDR at 24p is bandwidth compatible with the 10Gbps interface limit and that you can set the Shield to always output at 24Hz.

1. Does this work well for all video content? Obviously, 24fps movies would fit within these limitations, but what happens to TV shows that are not natively 24p when they are played through Netflix/Amazon/Youtube/Kodi, etc? Do they look OK, or is the motion off? Do any of the videos just not play at all when forced to 24p?

2. If you wanted to output 60fps, do you have the option of forcing 1080p60 while still keeping HDR? My logic is that 1080p would at least be upscaled to Faux-K, so it may be more worthwhile to preserve the HDR and WCG than it would be to preserve the higher resolution. (As opposed to sending 4K SDR, theoretically losing half of the 4K pixels anyway, and then totally missing out on the HDR.)

3. I do a little gaming on the Shield, but nothing crazy. I play a few platformers with my kids and some Mario Kart-like racing games. I don't have an Xbox One or a PS4 (only a PS3), so I don't have any games that are hardcore enough to warrant the $180 for an HDFury Linker. I'm thinking these Shield games probably aren't even 4K, so when I'm playing a 1080p SDR game at 60 fps, do I need to go into the Shield settings and change it to 1080p60 and then go back and change it to 4K/HDR/24p each time?


----------



## cford1905

carp said:


> So all that is missing is Atmos right? As soon as the Apple 4k tv gets Atmos we will then get it all from Netflix right?


So with the new Apple TV update is there a specific default that we should set the video to? On the Epson side of things we still will need to go back and forth between HarperVision and SDR profiles correct?


----------



## old corps

john barlow said:


> Nothing personal friend but, you don't own a 5040 projector so, you are submitting your opinion not from an experienced owner's point of view but just regurgitating what you've read in the press regarding this topic. I love my 5040! Yes, there were some early growing pains that early adopters often go through. After 11 months and 2 firmware updates, the 5040 is playing real nice with my associated gear, mainly, the Oppo 203 UHD disc player and I'm in Cinema Heaven. DVD, Blu Ray, UHD Blu ray all look fabulous in our cinema. If you haven't had months of experience with this projector, you are hardly qualified to comment, IMO. Your comments could cause an interested projector buyer, to miss out on a really great projector. Nothing personal, just my .02 Cheers.



Thanks John, I needed that! My 5040ub is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.


Ed


----------



## Tweakophyte

schamber said:


> Been using the RUIPRO 20M/65ft for 6 months. It’s worked great.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> Epson 6040UB; Marantz AV8801; B&K THX 30; Sony UBP-X800; Snell Signature C7 speakers; Snell ICS 24 sub; Stewart 1.1 110"


Thanks... ordered a 10m today.

Any thoughts if I was looking to pull a second cable as backup?


----------



## Jcniper

fritz11 said:


> With The Integral,you can not scale down from 60 fps 4k/hdr 10Bit to 60 fps 4K/hdr 8Bit!
> So you can not Play 60fps 4k/hdr on the Epson with the Xbox1X!
> For that you Need the Linker or the Vertex!
> Cu
> Fritz


Any idea why the linker shuts off when I switch over to my cable box? My PS4 and xbox work just fine, but when I switch over to my cable box it's not detecting a signal.


----------



## Juiced46

fritz11 said:


> Hi!
> Would you like share your Settings on the Epson?
> Maybe you can make a Few Fotos from the Screen
> Inc with the Gamma an Colour Settings!
> Cu and Thanks,
> Fritz


I would recommend using Oledurts or Harpervisions settings as a base and tweak for your specific application



Jcniper said:


> Any idea why the linker shuts off when I switch over to my cable box? My PS4 and xbox work just fine, but when I switch over to my cable box it's not detecting a signal.



No idea. What cable box do you have? Shut off HDMI ARC on your AVR and shut off HDMI Link on your Epson and give it a go.


----------



## Jcniper

Juiced46 said:


> I would recommend using Oledurts or Harpervisions settings as a base and tweak for your specific application
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No idea. What cable box do you have? Shut off HDMI ARC on your AVR and shut off HDMI Link on your Epson and give it a go.


I have Optimum. I will try shutting off ARC and HDMI Link.


----------



## Brajesh

ed3120 said:


> I've been following the 4K/HDR through nVidia Shield comments and I have a few questions. I'm a TV/movie watcher and a very light gamer:
> 
> I understand that 4K/HDR at 24p is bandwidth compatible with the 10Gbps interface limit and that you can set the Shield to always output at 24Hz.
> 
> 1. Does this work well for all video content? Obviously, 24fps movies would fit within these limitations, but what happens to TV shows that are not natively 24p when they are played through Netflix/Amazon/Youtube/Kodi, etc? Do they look OK, or is the motion off? Do any of the videos just not play at all when forced to 24p?
> 
> 2. If you wanted to output 60fps, do you have the option of forcing 1080p60 while still keeping HDR? My logic is that 1080p would at least be upscaled to Faux-K, so it may be more worthwhile to preserve the HDR and WCG than it would be to preserve the higher resolution. (As opposed to sending 4K SDR, theoretically losing half of the 4K pixels anyway, and then totally missing out on the HDR.)
> 
> 3. I do a little gaming on the Shield, but nothing crazy. I play a few platformers with my kids and some Mario Kart-like racing games. I don't have an Xbox One or a PS4 (only a PS3), so I don't have any games that are hardcore enough to warrant the $180 for an HDFury Linker. I'm thinking these Shield games probably aren't even 4K, so when I'm playing a 1080p SDR game at 60 fps, do I need to go into the Shield settings and change it to 1080p60 and then go back and change it to 4K/HDR/24p each time?


I'm also more a movie/TV user... I force my Shield to [email protected] with 4:2:0 BT2020 colorspace (don't choose 'recommended' as you won't get HDR)...

1. Yes. If you use Kodi with refresh rate matching enabled, 23.976, 24 and 30 are rendered properly on Epson, with HDR for 23.976 & 24. I haven't seen any 30Hz content w/HDR. For 59.94/60Hz HDR content, they'll be displayed in 8bit. What doesn't work well is 720p/1080p non-24p content (for example, DirecTV Now, PSVue), so for this I rely on TVHz app to switch resolutions between 30Hz and my 'default' of [email protected] 4:2:0 BT2020.

2. No HDR w/60Hz as it will switch to 8bit. Has to be 10bit+ for HDR I believe. Believe what solves this issue is getting HDFury Linker as several seem to have done here to downrez required 18Gbps bandwidth for [email protected] to 10.2Gbps, which Epson can handle.

3. Need to switch to 1080p/59.94 or 60 for games. Again, TVHz app helps here... for some reason, it won't show 60 as an option, but 30, which works fine. I too am debating getting HDFury Linker, but not quite convinced it's worth it. I'm also hopeful nVidia will address resolution switching via firmware on Shield. Their implementation is known to be broken right now.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

achanonier said:


> Hi that's good news that a streamer can finallay play Netflix 4k 24p HDR for our PJ.
> I'd like to know how plex behave with 4k mkv and HD audio tracks ?


Well Plex still doesn't direct play 4k MKV on the ATV, latest version should bring 4k mp4 direct play to the ATV but I dont have any of those on hand I'll try and remix one of the 4k MKV demos I have in Mp4 there a nice redit thread about that specific issue. 

I have read that INFUSE might work (havent tried it and frankly it was too expensive to test on a whim) I did get mrMC from the app store and despite bringing me back to my Xbmc years it does work rather well. 4k Mkv dts-hd 7.1 pass through enable and everything seemed a ok will test atmos tomorrow.

My son is sleeping and my wife gave me "THE" stare so I guess I'll quiet down a bit too. 



carp said:


> So all that is missing is Atmos right? As soon as the Apple 4k tv gets Atmos we will then get it all from Netflix right?


that is what apple seems to be aiming towards after YEARS of neglecting the Apple TV they suddenly want to be in the top of the tv box market it is even Dolby Vision. I am eagerly awaiting the Atmos update.



cford1905 said:


> So with the new Apple TV update is there a specific default that we should set the video to? On the Epson side of things we still will need to go back and forth between HarperVision and SDR profiles correct?


I have set it to 4k 60hz SDR so all menus are in that format. all 1080p and less are upscaled to that format by the ATV (or so it seems). But the ATV switches to the proper 24hz or 30hz SDR or HDR when needed.

So 1080p HDR will be upscaled to 2160p HDR. If you set it 1080p HDR everything will be maxed at 1080p HDR or SDR. 

The ATV does match color and frame but not resolution.

Or at least I havent found the proper settings.


----------



## WildThing

joshnotebooks said:


> My Epson 5040UB is 40 days old. I was playing Xbox One X and it just shut off. It didn't power down because the lens cover is still open. I've tried plugging into multiple different outlets and Nothing. It won't respond to the power button and no lights light up.
> 
> Any suggestions? I spoke with Epson support, but apparently a projector turning on needs to be escalated and the department that handles more than try a different outlet is already closed.
> 
> Does leaving it unplugged for a certain amount of time help or anything else?


Try to turn off HDMI link if it's on. I had this issue multiple times last summer, the projecteur could barely stay on 2 hours at a time. I turned the HDMI link to off and I never happened again. Seems that it received false signals. I found that solution in this thread I think.


----------



## vandi

Anyone know of BF like deals on the 5040ub at this point? I ended up down with the Flu then Pneumonia and smooth missed it.

Thanks
Chris


----------



## Krounds1523

*Auto Iris noise*

I just purchased the 5040ub and I have the hard drive scratching sound coming from the unit with the auto iris set to normal or high. I’ve gone through the threads but can’t find a good response on what to do other than turn it off. Do all units make this noise to some extent, is this an indicator that the iris will eventually fail? I just wanted to ask if I should exchange this unit at Best Buy while I still can.


----------



## john barlow

old corps said:


> Thanks John, I needed that! My 5040ub is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Ed


:You are welcome sir. I've had my 5040 for eleven months and my image is vastly improved since last January. The Oppo 203 has implemented quite a few FW updates since I became an early adopter last Christmas. That being said, my 203/5040 synergy is shining much brighter than it did back then. Thanks to both Epson and Oppo for getting our inquiries figured out and fixed. I've had very good luck with both units. Just this week with the latest FW update from Oppo and the Epson 5040 implemented only their second FW update since I received my unit right after Christmas. I was taken aback by the improvement in both PQ and SQ, it floored me that one day, I felt my image for a certain UHD disc was severely a real yawn fest. I applied my Oppo and Epson FW updates, watched that same certain disc that I complained about and "What in the world? It was as if I had just upgraded my PJ and Player with the next gen units. I'm glad my intuition about Epson and Oppo was spot on. Patience truly is a virtue. Believe you me, I've been working on patience my entire life. I'm retired and still find I'm racing around town to save time. Geez, I don't even have to be anywhere. More Prozac please. You will love your 5040UB. Synergy in a home theater is more challenging than a high end 2 channel configuration. It matters so, take advice from seasoned members when deciding on your ancillary gear, like cables and UHD player.


----------



## old corps

john barlow said:


> :You are welcome sir. I've had my 5040 for eleven months and my image is vastly improved since last January. The Oppo 203 has implemented quite a few FW updates since I became an early adopter last Christmas. That being said, my 203/5040 synergy is shining much brighter than it did back then. Thanks to both Epson and Oppo for getting our inquiries figured out and fixed. I've had very good luck with both units. Just this week with the latest FW update from Oppo and the Epson 5040 implemented only their second FW update since I received my unit right after Christmas. I was taken aback by the improvement in both PQ and SQ, it floored me that one day, I felt my image for a certain UHD disc was severely a real yawn fest. I applied my Oppo and Epson FW updates, watched that same certain disc that I complained about and "What in the world? It was as if I had just upgraded my PJ and Player with the next gen units. I'm glad my intuition about Epson and Oppo was spot on. Patience truly is a virtue. Believe you me, I've been working on patience my entire life. I'm retired and still find I'm racing around town to save time. Geez, I don't even have to be anywhere. More Prozac please. You will love your 5040UB. Synergy in a home theater is more challenging than a high end 2 channel configuration. It matters so, take advice from seasoned members when deciding on your ancillary gear, like cables and UHD player.


 
Thanks again John. I am currently waiting IMPATIENTLY for UPS to show up with my 5040. Kinda like a 5 year old waiting for Santa.:nerd: Another retired old fart with a lifelong lack of patience.LOL Unfortunately I seem to be right at the end of my UPS driver's route so it may very well be 7 or even later this time of year before he/she shows up. I even very much relate to your "racing around town" comment! I couldn't swing an Oppo but settled for a Sony X800 and have a Roku Premiere+ as well as an Onkyo RZ710. Hopefully they'll prove to be acceptable. May I ask what that last FW number for the Epson was? I'll make sure mine has it or download it. Speaking of which, I believe it has to be done via a thumb drive, not directly from the internet, correct? If so I'll have to call on my nerd son to help me with doing it that way, not comfortable trying to do it myself.
Happy viewing my friend!
Ed


Btw, I'm coming from the 5030ub which has been a great machine. Did you have a pj previously?


----------



## SALadder22FF

So, I know some have had problems but my 5040 randomly stopped showing an image. It tries to power on, but flashes blue, then orange flashes and it kicks into high fan mode. Anyone ever had this problem?

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## hoogs

So those with the linker, is the HDR worth it for gaming in particular?


----------



## xAzooz

*Hello 

i have small questions : )

- is black level deep without auto iris ?

- i know that we cant play HDR with xbox one x games is that a software issue ?

- can i play HDR movies on xbox one x ?*


----------



## Dirk504

Globespy said:


> If you are mainly watching regular BluRay then the 45ES would be plenty good.
> If it helps you, I was in the same boat and the reasons I didn't buy the 5040 were:
> 
> 1. I think this 'e-shift/faux-K' thing has a very limited lifespan - 2 years and native 4K PJ's will be the norm at around the same price as the 5040.
> 2. The 5040 has a lot of compromises regarding HDR/4K compatibility - if you game or play 4K content on one of the newer consoles with 4K BluRay players then it's not ideal
> 3. The 45ES is tried and tested, it delivers an arguably better overall image beyond it's low price point of $1500-1600 depending where you buy it from.
> 4. The 65ES from reading countless reviews just didn't seem to offer much over the 45ES to justify it's $1300 higher price point - close to double
> 5. The 65ES will have limited shelf life when 4K content and PJ's become more widespread
> 6. I can make a case for upgrading in 2-3 years with the 45ES, selling it for maybe a 50% loss, I can live with that as the cost of entertainment
> 
> I know that it's tough to be objective especially when you post in a thread about specific PJ's because most have already spent their money and kinda have to put on the rose tinted spectacles to some extent. It's just human nature.
> 
> Both the 5040 and the 65ES are great units, but they do different things.
> If you are absolutely set on one or the other, I would likely buy the 5040 if you don't need to game and can accept the faux-K and it's HDR limitations (8 bit with it's banding issues). It at least offers picture enhancement that can do a better job of handling 4K content - the 65ES just won't handle it as it's 1080p.
> But check out the 45ES if you just need a solid PJ that's almost perfectly calibrated out of the box (the 'Reference' setting needs very little changes - it's that close), it will meet all your non-4K BluRay needs and will buy you time until this faux-K fad vanishes in 2-3 years tops. Plus, if you game on it, its 22ms latency is industry leading and you won't find much better on any PJ at any price (I think there's a short throw Optoma that's about the same game latency but not the same for movie home theater image).
> 
> Hope that helps.


I totally agree with you. While I'm sure the 5040 is a great projector, true 4k projectors are coming out at competitive prices. I'm holding off until next year to see if Epson releases an updated version of the 5040 that's true 4k with no HDR issues. One can also hope for Dolby Vision. I just wouldn't feel right spending that kind of money right now on faux K. Last year yes, but not right now.


----------



## achanonier

Hi There

I just purchased an Apple TV 4k because with the new update it can send 4k24 hdr with Netflix.
So far so good I can get 4k and HDR with auto frame rate switch in Netflix that is great. It also works flawlesly with Amazon Prime.

Only concern : I set my main resolution to 4k60 so whe I browse Netflix I only see 4k ultraHD tag (because of the 60hz) when I launch a show it auto switches to 4k24 with HDR BT2020 wich is perfect/ The only concernis that this way I don't know which shows are actually in HDR before launching a show and checking either how the image looks like or the PJ signal info... Not very convenient... Any tip on this ?


----------



## Deftec

I have connected 50 feet Ruipro hdmi between anthem and epson 5040 and the source is sony blu-ray player with 4k upscaling which is 2 yrs old, when there is fast dance moves or action moves, the picture is not clear, i mean the faces or parts of the video looks flaky, but when the movie is going at regular speed there is no issue it is smooth and clear. What could be causing this issue is it blu-ray player or cable or receiver that can cause this issue? I am kind of confused, any advise would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## john barlow

old corps said:


> Thanks again John. I am currently waiting IMPATIENTLY for UPS to show up with my 5040. Kinda like a 5 year old waiting for Santa.:nerd: Another retired old fart with a lifelong lack of patience.LOL Unfortunately I seem to be right at the end of my UPS driver's route so it may very well be 7 or even later this time of year before he/she shows up. I even very much relate to your "racing around town" comment! I couldn't swing an Oppo but settled for a Sony X800 and have a Roku Premiere+ as well as an Onkyo RZ710. Hopefully they'll prove to be acceptable. May I ask what that last FW number for the Epson was? I'll make sure mine has it or download it. Speaking of which, I believe it has to be done via a thumb drive, not directly from the internet, correct? If so I'll have to call on my nerd son to help me with doing it that way, not comfortable trying to do it myself.
> Happy viewing my friend!
> Ed
> 
> 
> Btw, I'm coming from the 5030ub which has been a great machine. Did you have a pj previously?


 I owned two PJ's before coming to Epson. Two Panasonic PJ's in succession. The AE4000U and three gens later, the AE8000U. Epson became a contender for me by offering constant image height and the ability to zoom to scope screen which cinema buffs like myself must have as true patrons of books on film. The Sony X800, which is one of the best sales during this season coming in at $150, down from $299, is a great value. It's not Oppo but, gets you a reliable player with rich features and build quality for that price point is unprecedented for Sony. All our flat panels are Sony XBR4 LCD's, three of them occupy the LR, Den and BR. The custom Cinema I built myself, has a Stewart Filmscreen at 130" at the 2:35 aspect ratio. Right now, I've got about 100 UHD Blu ray's where, the quality has improved as filmmakers get used to and adjust with the new technologies. I've never been in a hobby that progresses at as fast a rate as the Home Theater market. They have a bit of an advantage by emulating advances in the commercial theater industry by adopting new technologies first invented for the commercial theater and made it available to the general public and the fast growing segment of home owners that desire a home cinema to provide entertainment for the whole family.


----------



## john barlow

Dirk504 said:


> I totally agree with you. While I'm sure the 5040 is a great projector, true 4k projectors are coming out at competitive prices. I'm holding off until next year to see if Epson releases an updated version of the 5040 that's true 4k with no HDR issues. One can also hope for Dolby Vision. I just wouldn't feel right spending that kind of money right now on faux K. Last year yes, but not right now.


 You're talking about the Texas Instrument chip that gives consumers full 4K, DLP, I prefer LCD or LCOS, DILA. Epson is LCD but, the 5040 is by far the best improvement from just one generation. The PJ is a solid and consistent performer that has doubled down on that performance in less than a year. My PJ is getting twice the PQ and SP because of the sum of the synergy that I benefit through exhaustive research that could take me months of reading before deciding on a particular component. Native is great for sure but, I'm pretty happy as a film on disc collector, 90% of my needs are covered which, is the best position I've been in since re entering this hobby again in 2006, with the advent of lossless audio. the lossy recordings limitation of DVD, was too much a turn off and I abandoned the home theater hobby twice before coming back eleven years ago and I'm here to stay. You can go with Optoma and a couple other companies who tend to stick to the DLP format, you could go Laser and drop 35K on the new JVC. Or, you could sacrifice features for 4096X2160, with the Sony entry level unit that is under 5K by one doallar. It's always great to have more options. The choice is yours. I stand by the Epson which at $2399. on sale, is a great bargain.


----------



## ayrton

john barlow said:


> You're talking about the Texas Instrument chip that gives consumers full 4K, DLP, I prefer LCD or LCOS, DILA. Epson is LCD but, the 5040 is by far the best improvement from just one generation. The PJ is a solid and consistent performer that has doubled down on that performance in less than a year. My PJ is getting twice the PQ and SP because of the sum of the synergy that I benefit through exhaustive research that could take me months of reading before deciding on a particular component. Native is great for sure but, I'm pretty happy as a film on disc collector, 90% of my needs are covered which, is the best position I've been in since re entering this hobby again in 2006, with the advent of lossless audio. the lossy recordings limitation of DVD, was too much a turn off and I abandoned the home theater hobby twice before coming back eleven years ago and I'm here to stay. You can go with Optoma and a couple other companies who tend to stick to the DLP format, you could go Laser and drop 35K on the new JVC. Or, you could sacrifice features for 4096X2160, with the Sony entry level unit that is under 5K by one doallar. It's always great to have more options. The choice is yours. I stand by the Epson which at $2399. on sale, is a great bargain.


I totally agree!

I bought a Sammy 4K UHD HDR TV to compare with my Epson. So I know what the video should look like.

With the help of the people of this forum, I'm very satisfied with viewing 4K UHD HDR. Comparing to my Sammy TV 50".
I use an Oppo 203 mainly for 4k and a Sammy 8500 for Blu Ray/DVD. Both of these machined do a great job up scaling and the Sammy streaming..


----------



## amarkow

I've struggled to achieve acceptable PQ from 4K discs. With the Harpervision (with or without Oledurt's suggestions), my image was always sharp, but the color was not even close to accurate. Skin tone always leaned toward red, and contrast was too intense. I saw entirely too much grain, and there was a god-awful halo around lights. I was about to give up watching 4K and just go with the 1080P version, which looked much better with upconversion. Then I tried the Oledurt plus dimi 123 suggestions. What a difference! Suddenly, there was a reason to love 4K. My situation may be unique (I have a 13-year-old Firehawk screen, for example), but I'm very happy now. If you look at the Digital Cinemal HDR settings under Oledurt/Dimi, you'll see a substantial difference from Harpervision -- particularly Gamma. I don't know why these settings work so much better for me, and I don't doubt that results will vary with other set-ups. But I love the way my 5040 now looks with 4K discs. Haven't tried streaming 4K yet because I'm really pissed that Netflix wants $4 more a month for what is fast becoming the new standard, but I'll get there eventually and find out how the setting works in that arena.


----------



## jwhn

amarkow said:


> I've struggled to achieve acceptable PQ from 4K discs. With the Harpervision (with or without Oledurt's suggestions), my image was always sharp, but the color was not even close to accurate. Skin tone always leaned toward red, and contrast was too intense. I saw entirely too much grain, and there was a god-awful halo around lights. I was about to give up watching 4K and just go with the 1080P version, which looked much better with upconversion. Then I tried the Oledurt plus dimi 123 suggestions. What a difference! Suddenly, there was a reason to love 4K. My situation may be unique (I have a 13-year-old Firehawk screen, for example), but I'm very happy now. If you look at the Digital Cinemal HDR settings under Oledurt/Dimi, you'll see a substantial difference from Harpervision -- particularly Gamma. I don't know why these settings work so much better for me, and I don't doubt that results will vary with other set-ups. But I love the way my 5040 now looks with 4K discs. Haven't tried streaming 4K yet because I'm really pissed that Netflix wants $4 more a month for what is fast becoming the new standard, but I'll get there eventually and find out how the setting works in that arena.


Do you mean 4K HDR disks or just 4K. As you probably know, both of their settings are designed for HDR.


----------



## amarkow

jwhn said:


> Do you mean 4K HDR disks or just 4K. As you probably know, both of their settings are designed for HDR.


4K HDR discs.


----------



## viperlogic

amarkow said:


> I've struggled to achieve acceptable PQ from 4K discs. With the Harpervision (with or without Oledurt's suggestions), my image was always sharp, but the color was not even close to accurate. Skin tone always leaned toward red, and contrast was too intense. I saw entirely too much grain, and there was a god-awful halo around lights. I was about to give up watching 4K and just go with the 1080P version, which looked much better with upconversion. Then I tried the Oledurt plus dimi 123 suggestions. What a difference! Suddenly, there was a reason to love 4K. My situation may be unique (I have a 13-year-old Firehawk screen, for example), but I'm very happy now. If you look at the Digital Cinemal HDR settings under Oledurt/Dimi, you'll see a substantial difference from Harpervision -- particularly Gamma. I don't know why these settings work so much better for me, and I don't doubt that results will vary with other set-ups. But I love the way my 5040 now looks with 4K discs. Haven't tried streaming 4K yet because I'm really pissed that Netflix wants $4 more a month for what is fast becoming the new standard, but I'll get there eventually and find out how the setting works in that arena.


I wasn't too impressed with HDR trying the various members configs posted here so decided to calibrate HDR myself with a meter and HCFR and once the tone mapping is dialled in right its well worth the time


----------



## amarkow

I don't have the kind of equipment required to do what you did, but I expect to continue tweaking the projector until it's optimized to my eyes. Point is, you have to keep trying with an instrument like the 5040. It's not a device for the faint of heart. For me, it's fun to overcome problems and find solutions. But I could never do it without knowledgeable Forum members whose patience and willingness to help are inspiring. Thanks for all the help. Please keep it up.


----------



## seplant

amarkow said:


> I don't have the kind of equipment required to do what you did, but I expect to continue tweaking the projector until it's optimized to my eyes. Point is, you have to keep trying with an instrument like the 5040. It's not a device for the faint of heart. For me, it's fun to overcome problems and find solutions. But I could never do it without knowledgeable Forum members whose patience and willingness to help are inspiring. Thanks for all the help. Please keep it up.


All you need is a $200 meter. The HCFR software is free. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Natrix1973

amarkow said:


> I've struggled to achieve acceptable PQ from 4K discs. With the Harpervision (with or without Oledurt's suggestions), my image was always sharp, but the color was not even close to accurate. Skin tone always leaned toward red, and contrast was too intense. I saw entirely too much grain, and there was a god-awful halo around lights. I was about to give up watching 4K and just go with the 1080P version, which looked much better with upconversion. Then I tried the Oledurt plus dimi 123 suggestions. What a difference! Suddenly, there was a reason to love 4K. My situation may be unique (I have a 13-year-old Firehawk screen, for example), but I'm very happy now. If you look at the Digital Cinemal HDR settings under Oledurt/Dimi, you'll see a substantial difference from Harpervision -- particularly Gamma. I don't know why these settings work so much better for me, and I don't doubt that results will vary with other set-ups. But I love the way my 5040 now looks with 4K discs. Haven't tried streaming 4K yet because I'm really pissed that Netflix wants $4 more a month for what is fast becoming the new standard, but I'll get there eventually and find out how the setting works in that arena.


Did you change the Dynamic Range setting on the 5040 to SDR when sending a HDR input signal from your UHD player with the Harpervision settings? It sounds like you might have been applying the Harpervision settings and gamma curve on top of leaving the Dynamic Range setting in the 5040 at HDR and not manually switching it over to SDR.


----------



## amarkow

Yes. I set it to SDR, then checked Information on the PJ to make sure it showed HDR.


----------



## amarkow

Natrix1973 said:


> Did you change the Dynamic Range setting on the 5040 to SDR when sending a HDR input signal from your UHD player with the Harpervision settings? It sounds like you might have been applying the Harpervision settings and gamma curve on top of leaving the Dynamic Range setting in the 5040 at HDR and not manually switching it over to SDR.


You might be right. Just went back in and looked at my Harpervision settings. I left the Color Space and Dynamic Range settings at Auto, when they probably should have been set at 2020 and SDR.


----------



## jwhn

amarkow said:


> 4K HDR discs.


You might go through this thread. Through this approach I was able to greatly improve my HDR PQ. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html


----------



## amarkow

jwhn said:


> You might go through this thread. Through this approach I was able to greatly improve my HDR PQ.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html


I have been through every page. That's where I might have gotten confused. So many possible settings that I may have mixed up some of them. With SDR and 2020 dialed in, the Harpervision setting looks great. But so does the other one. I'm going to do some A-B comparisons of the two when I can fully darken the room. Thanks for the help.


----------



## jwhn

amarkow said:


> I have been through every page. That's where I might have gotten confused. So many possible settings that I may have mixed up some of them. With SDR and 2020 dialed in, the Harpervision setting looks great. But so does the other one. I'm going to do some A-B comparisons of the two when I can fully darken the room. Thanks for the help.


The thread I sent is different than the settings that are exchanged on this thread. So not related to Harpervision.


----------



## amarkow

jwhn said:


> The thread I sent is different than the settings that are exchanged on this thread. So not related to Harpervision.


Okay. Will check that out. Now I'm having an issue with Natural setting with color temp, which used to show a single number (4, 3, 2, etc.), but now shows 6500K. Wondering why that happened.


----------



## migsta

Got the linker but don't understand how to set it up. I got FW 20 installed and using GUI 19. I tried a few of the different EDID tables but nothing gives me BT2020 HDR on the Xbox One X GUI screen for example. Always 8 bit 709 SDR. How do I set it up correctly and is it better to put the linker at the AVM60/PREAMP end to the projector so ALL sources employ the linker? I have the 6040UB.


----------



## mase1981

migsta said:


> Got the linker but don't understand how to set it up. I got FW 20 installed and using GUI 19. I tried a few of the different EDID tables but nothing gives me BT2020 HDR on the Xbox One X GUI screen for example. Always 8 bit 709 SDR. How do I set it up correctly and is it better to put the linker at the AVM60/PREAMP end to the projector so ALL sources employ the linker? I have the 6040UB.


Look at my sig.... use FW25


----------



## migsta

mase1981 said:


> Look at my sig.... use FW25


Thanks, where do I get Firmware 25 from. I only see FW20 on Linker's site. I assume FW25 has all of the config changes set to what you show in your thumbnails as the proper settings for the Linker?


----------



## mase1981

migsta said:


> Thanks, where do I get Firmware 25 from. I only see FW20 on Linker's site. I assume FW25 has all of the config changes set to what you show in your thumbnails as the proper settings for the Linker?


[20-NOV-17] 4K Linker GUI EDID HDR/IF Control Utility 0.21 (FW 0.25) – ZIP – 11.3 Mo


----------



## migsta

mase1981 said:


> [20-NOV-17] 4K Linker GUI EDID HDR/IF Control Utility 0.21 (FW 0.25) – ZIP – 11.3 Mo


Where do you see that version? The latest one I see if FW20 GUI19 on their site.


----------



## mase1981

migsta said:


> Where do you see that version? The latest one I see if FW20 GUI19 on their site.


Bro..... with all the information i gave you the only thing i didnt is to paint it with Crayons lol....
go to the linker page: https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
From there scroll down until you see (DESCRIPTION TECHNICAL SPECS GETTING STARTED CERTIFICATIONS DOWNLOAD REVIEWS) 
Click on Downloads
Then download "[20-NOV-17] 4K Linker GUI EDID HDR/IF Control Utility 0.21 (FW 0.25) – ZIP – 11.3 Mo" which is 0.25 Firmware. (FW25).


----------



## terminal33

achanonier said:


> Hi There
> 
> I just purchased an Apple TV 4k because with the new update it can send 4k24 hdr with Netflix.
> So far so good I can get 4k and HDR with auto frame rate switch in Netflix that is great. It also works flawlesly with Amazon Prime.
> 
> Only concern : I set my main resolution to 4k60 so whe I browse Netflix I only see 4k ultraHD tag (because of the 60hz) when I launch a show it auto switches to 4k24 with HDR BT2020 wich is perfect/ The only concernis that this way I don't know which shows are actually in HDR before launching a show and checking either how the image looks like or the PJ signal info... Not very convenient... Any tip on this ?


I'm tempted to get the ATV4K as well. My Roku P+ is having too many issues. So, you're actually able to get 4K (not upscaled by the ATV) and HDR with Netflix? If so, does this make the ATV better suited for our projector than the Shield?


----------



## migsta

mase1981 said:


> Bro..... with all the information i gave you the only thing i didnt is to paint it with Crayons lol....
> go to the linker page: https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> From there scroll down until you see (DESCRIPTION TECHNICAL SPECS GETTING STARTED CERTIFICATIONS DOWNLOAD REVIEWS)
> Click on Downloads
> Then download "[20-NOV-17] 4K Linker GUI EDID HDR/IF Control Utility 0.21 (FW 0.25) – ZIP – 11.3 Mo" which is 0.25 Firmware. (FW25).


Ok, thanks. I was going only to the link below since I received the unit yesterday which doesn't contain the latest files. Didn't realize you had a different link in your signature link. 

http://www.hdfurylinker.com/download/


----------



## Dirk504

john barlow said:


> You're talking about the Texas Instrument chip that gives consumers full 4K, DLP, I prefer LCD or LCOS, DILA. Epson is LCD but, the 5040 is by far the best improvement from just one generation. The PJ is a solid and consistent performer that has doubled down on that performance in less than a year. My PJ is getting twice the PQ and SP because of the sum of the synergy that I benefit through exhaustive research that could take me months of reading before deciding on a particular component. Native is great for sure but, I'm pretty happy as a film on disc collector, 90% of my needs are covered which, is the best position I've been in since re entering this hobby again in 2006, with the advent of lossless audio. the lossy recordings limitation of DVD, was too much a turn off and I abandoned the home theater hobby twice before coming back eleven years ago and I'm here to stay. You can go with Optoma and a couple other companies who tend to stick to the DLP format, you could go Laser and drop 35K on the new JVC. Or, you could sacrifice features for 4096X2160, with the Sony entry level unit that is under 5K by one doallar. It's always great to have more options. The choice is yours. I stand by the Epson which at $2399. on sale, is a great bargain.


I did not say that the 5040 is a bad projector, nor did I say I prefer DLP anywhere in my post, only that there are other options for true 4k. I've owned the SXRD Sony 45ES for over a year now, so I'm all in on LCOS, LCD, and everything similar. I'm just stating that if anyone can wait until next year, they should do so and upgrade to true 4k. Personally, while I could easily upgrade to the 5040, I will not buy anything NOW, until I see what CEDIA has to offer. That's all as I'm not trying to debate, but only offer my opinion, which has the right to be different from others.


----------



## migsta

mase1981 said:


> Look at my sig.... use FW25


For my EDID table, should I be picking 4k60 or 4k30 as per the first two thumbnails you show since you can only pick one EDID table for the linker. I picked the better one, 4k60, but I have to set everything to 4k30 (i.e. Apple TV will only show HDR at 4k30). How do I get the Shield TV and my Xbox One X to show HDR instead of 422 2020 SDR. The Xbox One X does have all the green check marks now supporting all the video but on the GUI of the Shield and Xbox One X, when I press Info on the Epson, shows BT2020 SDR not HDR like for the GUI on the Apple TV. I do have the resolution set to 4k30 on these devices. For the scaler section I checked for off like you show with the button on PASSTHRU.


----------



## Juiced46

xAzooz said:


> *Hello
> 
> i have small questions : )
> 
> - is black level deep without auto iris ?
> 
> - i know that we cant play HDR with xbox one x games is that a software issue ?
> 
> - can i play HDR movies on xbox one x ?*


No HDR with Xbox games is an Epson issue. 

Yes, you can play HDR movies with the Xbox One X. You can also do HDR Amazon Prime.


----------



## migsta

migsta said:


> For my EDID table, should I be picking 4k60 or 4k30 as per the first two thumbnails you show since you can only pick one EDID table for the linker. I picked the better one, 4k60, but I have to set everything to 4k30 (i.e. Apple TV will only show HDR at 4k30). How do I get the Shield TV and my Xbox One X to show HDR instead of 422 2020 SDR. The Xbox One X does have all the green check marks now supporting all the video but on the GUI of the Shield and Xbox One X, when I press Info on the Epson, shows BT2020 SDR not HDR like for the GUI on the Apple TV. I do have the resolution set to 4k30 on these devices. For the scaler section I checked for off like you show with the button on PASSTHRU.


Sorry, don't really know this.

So my XB1X has all green checkmarks. But, my Shield no longer allows me to pick 4k - just goes to 1080p. The Apple TV is now 8 bit instead of 12 bit HDR. Is that because I am using the EDIT table that is for the XB1X? If so, which one do I pick for the rest of the sources to work optimally and how do I easily toggle between the two on the linker.

Thanks ALL.


----------



## onair125

Anyone here have setup Epson 5040UB + DIrectTV Genie2 (HS-17)?
I want to know if Epson5040 can do 4k? HDR? with this
Would I also need a linker for this??


----------



## old corps

I'm happy to report that an active 50' Monoprice cable that I've had in place is delivering 4K HDR to my 5040 from my Sony X800 player. This cable was one of the first active cables Monoprice offered. The bad part is it only does so when connected directly to the player which requires me to use the 2nd HDMI output of the Sony to my Onkyo RZ710 for audio. The Onkyo should pass 4K HDR with no problem but it doesn't. I have a 50' "Dynamic View" cable from Monoprice that I purchased because I was sure the existing cable wouldn't work still packaged up. I may get a burst of energy tomorrow to see if it will make any difference in getting the signal through the receiver. Me thinks not.


Ed


----------



## WynsWrld98

old corps said:


> I'm happy to report that an active 50' Monoprice cable that I've had in place is delivering 4K HDR to my 5040 from my Sony X800 player. This cable was one of the first active cables Monoprice offered. The bad part is it only does so when connected directly to the player which requires me to use the 2nd HDMI output of the Sony to my Onkyo RZ710 for audio. The Onkyo should pass 4K HDR with no problem but it doesn't. I have a 50' "Dynamic View" cable from Monoprice that I purchased because I was sure the existing cable wouldn't work still packaged up. I may get a burst of energy tomorrow to see if it will make any difference in getting the signal through the receiver. Me thinks not.
> 
> 
> Ed


I'm using this one with the Sony X800 player connected to my Denon X6300H receiver this running to my 5040 with no problems getting 4K HDR, is from Monoprice: Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI® Cable, 35ft. I believe they make a 50ft version of it perhaps that would do the trick.


----------



## BiggNewt

Dirk504 said:


> I did not say that the 5040 is a bad projector, nor did I say I prefer DLP anywhere in my post, only that there are other options for true 4k. I've owned the SXRD Sony 45ES for over a year now, so I'm all in on LCOS, LCD, and everything similar. I'm just stating that if anyone can wait until next year, they should do so and upgrade to true 4k. Personally, while I could easily upgrade to the 5040, I will not buy anything NOW, until I see what CEDIA has to offer. That's all as I'm not trying to debate, but only offer my opinion, which has the right to be different from others.


True 4K projectors are no where close to being in the sub $2,500 range like the 5040UB. The Sony 285ES is $5,000 and still has issues with HDR just like the 5040UB. I still think we're a good 2-3 years before we get a sub $2,500 4K projector that can handle HDR correctly.


----------



## BiggNewt

antney79 said:


> We’ll sort of helps. Your saying it’s not worth spending money on the 65es. You would pick between the 45es and 5040. I don’t mind spending the 500 more for 5040 then to get the faux 4K.
> 
> I guess I’m not clear on hdr and if it’s important. Gaming I might play a little bit won’t be the main purpose. What affects does the 5040 have if I want to play PlayStation on it?
> 
> I will also be watching live sports as well if not movies.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I upgraded from a Sony HW40ES (for sale in classifieds) to an Epson 5040UB and the difference for me was night and day. Black levels are much better, the detail enhancement or (faux k) is something that has to be seen to be believed. I use Harpervision and Oledurt settings for anything HDR and I finally got the picture I've been searching for in my home theater for years.

My old Blu-rays also have new life with this projector. I've found myself pulling all my old go to reference discs again and being wowed all over again.


----------



## onair125

Anyone here have setup Epson 5040UB + DIrectTV Genie2 (HS-17)?
I want to know if Epson5040 can do 4k? HDR? with this
Would I also need a linker for this?


----------



## chickenbc49

*new Firmware 1.11*

Hi , anyone update his projector with the new firmware 1.11/1.11 ???

what's new ?


----------



## knmlee

onair125 said:


> Anyone here have setup Epson 5040UB + DIrectTV Genie2 (HS-17)?
> I want to know if Epson5040 can do 4k? HDR? with this
> Would I also need a linker for this?


I'm getting 4K from my DirecTV Genie to the 5040 with no problem. I haven't tried to watch anything with HDR yet. May try that soon. I just got my 5040 and am still waiting on a screen. Not sure what model of Genie that I have. To get 4K, I have a separate 4K client box connected to the Genie.


----------



## onair125

knmlee said:


> I'm getting 4K from my DirecTV Genie to the 5040 with no problem. I haven't tried to watch anything with HDR yet. May try that soon. I just got my 5040 and am still waiting on a screen. Not sure what model of Genie that I have. To get 4K, I have a separate 4K client box connected to the Genie.


Thanks Mark. I been debating whether I should get the new 4K Genie from DirectTV
What they told me that they will install the Genie 2 HS-17 (The head)
And C61K for the mini receivers. 

Im guessing that this is what you have?
Also, I’ve been hearing a lot people complaining how bad these 4K equipments, slow, delay, pixelated. 
Can you confirm these? Are you having any issues?
Please let me know once you test the HDR? Thank you.


----------



## ed3120

I have some questions about using the Linker with the 5040UB:

1. When using it to allow for 4K HDR 60p, do just set the Linker to permanently output 4K HDR 60p 8bit no matter what the source is? Or does it switch automatically based on the source feed? Or do you hit a button or something to change between various outputs?
2. 4K HDR 24p 10bit feeds can be accepted by the 5040UB. After configuring things properly for 4K HDR 60p 8bit, does the 24p signal have to get downscaled to 8bit or will it automatically keep it at 10bit?
3. Does having the Linker in place mess with the 1080p signal? With a 1080p source, I'd prefer the untouched 1080p to get to the 5040UB so that it can upscale it properly. I don't want the Linker to scale it up to 4K, just to have the Epson downscale it to faux-k.
4. I have a 5-year-old receiver and it doesn't pass 4K, so I can't run my HDMI from the source through the amp to the 5040UB. Somewhere along the path, I need to split the signal with an audio extractor that will send the audio signal (either via HDMI or optical) to my receiver. Will the Linker help here or do I need to run my path through a separate audio extractor box, then Linker, (or Linker, then extractor box) then 5040B?

Thanks!


----------



## knmlee

onair125 said:


> Thanks Mark. I been debating whether I should get the new 4K Genie from DirectTV
> What they told me that they will install the Genie 2 HS-17 (The head)
> And C61K for the mini receivers.
> 
> Im guessing that this is what you have?
> Also, I’ve been hearing a lot people complaining how bad these 4K equipments, slow, delay, pixelated.
> Can you confirm these? Are you having any issues?
> Please let me know once you test the HDR? Thank you.


Yes, that is what I have. The 4K client box is a C61K-700. I haven't had any problems with the equipment so far. Had it for about a year now. 

According to the guys over at the AT&T forum, there is no HDR content on DTV yet...

There also isn't a ton of 4K content available yet (other than PPV movies). Hoping that they add more channels in 2018!

FWIW, I read that the streaming service from DTV was getting 4K & HDR in 2018...


----------



## SALadder22FF

After getting my refurbished unit overnighted after an electrician fried mine it powers off on its own every now and then. Is this a known issue. Also the 35' hdmi cable no longer sends a signal. Is it possible this was damaged thru the same thing that ruined my projector?

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

SALadder22FF said:


> After getting my refurbished unit overnighted after an electrician fried mine it powers off on its own every now and then. Is this a known issue. Also the 35' hdmi cable no longer sends a signal. Is it possible this was damaged thru the same thing that ruined my projector?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Try turning off HDMI Link


----------



## seplant

chickenbc49 said:


> Hi , anyone update his projector with the new firmware 1.11/1.11 ???
> 
> what's new ?


I installed 1.11 tonight. I didn't notice any obvious improvements, but my HDMI 1 input stopped working a while back (will be getting a replacement projector soon), so I can't try any 4K HDR material. I did try 3D, and still saw a bit of ghosting.


----------



## marco1975

anyone having the issue when i turn on the projector the fan would go full speed for like 1 minute while the screen is black , before you get any picture from the projector on the screen?it happened a few time before first when i bought the projector, but its been happening quite alot lately...


----------



## panman40

marco1975 said:


> anyone having the issue when i turn on the projector the fan would go full speed for like 1 minute while the screen is black , before you get any picture from the projector on the screen?it happened a few time before first when i bought the projector, but its been happening quite alot lately...


Yes it's normal for these, everyone I know who has one suffers the same so don't worry.


----------



## marco1975

panman40 said:


> Yes it's normal for these, everyone I know who has one suffers the same so don't worry.


thanks.
i wonder why epson hasn,t find a fix for this issue when it seems to be widespread..


----------



## The_Forth_Man

marco1975 said:


> anyone having the issue when i turn on the projector the fan would go full speed for like 1 minute while the screen is black , before you get any picture from the projector on the screen?it happened a few time before first when i bought the projector, but its been happening quite alot lately...





panman40 said:


> Yes it's normal for these, everyone I know who has one suffers the same so don't worry.


Same here. Also on my hc2040. 

Might be a Epson thing.


----------



## old corps

marco1975 said:


> thanks.
> i wonder why epson hasn,t find a fix for this issue when it seems to be widespread..



Mine hasn't done this at all..........yet. Granted, I've only had it 5 days and it's only been powered up about 8 times.


Ed


----------



## viperlogic

old corps said:


> Mine hasn't done this at all..........yet. Granted, I've only had it 5 days and it's only been powered up about 8 times.
> 
> 
> Ed


Mine started doing it after 100 hours. I call it spring cleaning mode!


----------



## NetViper

viperlogic said:


> Mine started doing it after 100 hours. I call it spring cleaning mode!


Mine does it too.


----------



## jason_galaxy

Found this on an Italian web page. Anyone have feedback yet?..

Meanwhile, Epson informed us that a new firmware has just been released, coming to revision 1.11, which should significantly improve performance with HDR material.


----------



## philipbtz

jason_galaxy said:


> Found this on an Italian web page. Anyone have feedback yet?..
> 
> Meanwhile, Epson informed us that a new firmware has just been released, coming to revision 1.11, which should significantly improve performance with HDR material.


From a German forum (translated)



> Have tested the new firmware since Friday.
> I noticed the following changes.
> 
> In the FI, in my opinion, nothing has happened. At The Dark Night the skyscraper beginning scene you still see the artifacts.
> Still, I find her a little better.
> 
> But they have clearly put their hands on HDR and the brightness.
> After installing a HDR car brightly in a previous firmware, it has been improved once again.
> Previously, only bright HDR set to 500 instead of 1000 Nits.
> With this firmware probably the HDR gamma was adapted.
> In my opinion, the max. Brightness has risen, as it used to clap at 2500 max for me and now at 4000.
> 
> Here are the new fashion grades:
> Mode 1 clips at about 500 Nits (very bright)
> Mode 2 clips at about 500 Nits (before 1000) is darker like Mode 1 (other HDR gamma, I like it very well)
> Mode 3 clips at about 1000 Nits (previously 4000)
> Mode 4 clips at about 4000 Nits (before 10000)
> depending on the movie I would take Mode 2 or 3.
> 
> A great update on HDR, as you will never need the 10,000 Nits anyway.
> 
> In addition, I found the 4K image now liquid.
> 
> It would be nice, of course, if Epson issued a changelog, that you do not have to look for the needle in a haystack every time.


----------



## Deftec

*No Vertical Keystone option*

I am setting up my 5040 ub, all looks almost perfect till i got into this issue, where i do not see Vertical Keystone correction option. I see only horizontal slider. How to get this option?
My bluray dvd for Jurrasic world runs over the screen on top and bottom if I adjust the left and right side of the screen, i am not able to understand how to adjust the top and bottom part of the picture. Did anyone had this problem before?


----------



## drhankz

Deftec said:


> I am setting up my 5040 ub, all looks almost perfect till i got into this issue, where i do not see Vertical Keystone correction option. I see only horizontal slider. How to get this option?
> My bluray dvd for Jurrasic world runs over the screen on top and bottom if I adjust the left and right side of the screen, i am not able to understand how to adjust the top and bottom part of the picture. Did anyone had this problem before?


Keystone is an obsolete adjustment - NOT NEEDED ANY MORE. 

If you need it your projector is installed incorrectly.


----------



## marco1975

philipbtz said:


> From a German forum (translated)


i can,t see this new firmware has been released on the epson.eu. ??? under firmware download is only version 1.09 available for download


----------



## Deftec

drhankz said:


> Keystone is an obsolete adjustment - NOT NEEDED ANY MORE.
> 
> If you need it your projector is installed incorrectly.


You mean there is only horizontal slider? no vertical slider? 

On the control panel, as per the manual and pic it shows you can use the up and down arrow keys but when I try there is no change or nothing happens but when i use the left and right arrow keys, the image changes accordingly to bigger or shrink.


----------



## old corps

old corps said:


> I'm happy to report that an active 50' Monoprice cable that I've had in place is delivering 4K HDR to my 5040 from my Sony X800 player. This cable was one of the first active cables Monoprice offered. The bad part is it only does so when connected directly to the player which requires me to use the 2nd HDMI output of the Sony to my Onkyo RZ710 for audio. The Onkyo should pass 4K HDR with no problem but it doesn't. I have a 50' "Dynamic View" cable from Monoprice that I purchased because I was sure the existing cable wouldn't work still packaged up. I may get a burst of energy tomorrow to see if it will make any difference in getting the signal through the receiver. Me thinks not.
> 
> 
> Ed


Today I figured out that I'd somehow managed to use the wrong input on the 5040 (#2 instead of #1 ). After connecting to #1 all is well! Duhhhhhhhhh....... My old active Monoprice cable works just fine, no need for the 50' Dynamic View that's sitting here unopened. Guess I'll keep it for a back up.

Ed


----------



## Azekecse

Deftec said:


> You mean there is only horizontal slider? no vertical slider?
> 
> On the control panel, as per the manual and pic it shows you can use the up and down arrow keys but when I try there is no change or nothing happens but when i use the left and right arrow keys, the image changes accordingly to bigger or shrink.


Yes that is correct the only correction that Keystone provides is trapezoidal/geometric correction based on my experience with this projector. I utilized keystone initially until I corrected my projector position, now my keystone is set to Zero. Beware, once you start keystone you begin picture distortion, YMMV. Drhankz previous post clarifies this point. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## old corps

Deftec said:


> You mean there is only horizontal slider? no vertical slider?
> 
> On the control panel, as per the manual and pic it shows you can use the up and down arrow keys but when I try there is no change or nothing happens but when i use the left and right arrow keys, the image changes accordingly to bigger or shrink.


You just need to hit the LENS button on your remote and continue pressing (tapping)until Lens Shift shows up. Then use the up/down, left/right arrows to get your picture to the proper position. You also use the LENS button cycled to Lens Zoom to get the proper size--left & right arrows on the remote. Hope this helps.

Ed


----------



## mase1981

ed3120 said:


> I have some questions about using the Linker with the 5040UB:
> 
> 1. When using it to allow for 4K HDR 60p, do just set the Linker to permanently output 4K HDR 60p 8bit no matter what the source is? Or does it switch automatically based on the source feed? Or do you hit a button or something to change between various outputs?
> 2. 4K HDR 24p 10bit feeds can be accepted by the 5040UB. After configuring things properly for 4K HDR 60p 8bit, does the 24p signal have to get downscaled to 8bit or will it automatically keep it at 10bit?
> 3. Does having the Linker in place mess with the 1080p signal? With a 1080p source, I'd prefer the untouched 1080p to get to the 5040UB so that it can upscale it properly. I don't want the Linker to scale it up to 4K, just to have the Epson downscale it to faux-k.
> 4. I have a 5-year-old receiver and it doesn't pass 4K, so I can't run my HDMI from the source through the amp to the 5040UB. Somewhere along the path, I need to split the signal with an audio extractor that will send the audio signal (either via HDMI or optical) to my receiver. Will the Linker help here or do I need to run my path through a separate audio extractor box, then Linker, (or Linker, then extractor box) then 5040B?
> 
> Thanks!


1. you set 2 profiles on the linker. One for in [email protected] and one for in [email protected]/30. You can also set 2 different output depending on the profile input used. check my sig for more info. 
2. it can keep 10bit at 24p
3. linker is best used with receiver that can do 4k. it can strip the audio or pass it. in ur case scenario honestly best course of action would be to upgrade the receiver and get the linker. otherwise if you have more then 1 source, it complicate things. xb1x and ps4 does not have a second HDMI out for audio, and audio extractors are not best thing in the world. if you have the possibility to upgrade, do so. if not even if you do or dont use the linker you will need an audio extractor to get the audio out to the receiver.


----------



## Deftec

Azekecse said:


> Yes that is correct the only correction that Keystone provides is trapezoidal/geometric correction Azeke





old corps said:


> You just need to hit the LENS button. Hope this helps.Ed


Thank You Azek and Ed. 

I called the CS of Epson before looking to your post and they said the same. They said the PJ is 16:10 and my screen is 2.35:1 so i should expect some movies that don't fit the screen


----------



## Juiced46

marco1975 said:


> anyone having the issue when i turn on the projector the fan would go full speed for like 1 minute while the screen is black , before you get any picture from the projector on the screen?it happened a few time before first when i bought the projector, but its been happening quite alot lately...





marco1975 said:


> thanks.
> i wonder why epson hasn,t find a fix for this issue when it seems to be widespread..


Completely normal. I do not know the reasoning on why it does this. My 5025 and my 5040 both do this from time to time.


----------



## carp

marco1975 said:


> i can,t see this new firmware has been released on the epson.eu. ??? under firmware download is only version 1.09 available for download


Scroll down, almost all the way to the bottom. 

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

Can anyone confirm that the update makes a difference for HDR?


----------



## viperlogic

marco1975 said:


> i can,t see this new firmware has been released on the epson.eu. ??? under firmware download is only version 1.09 available for download


Here it is on UK site...

https://www.epson.co.uk/support?productID=18318


----------



## carp

viperlogic said:


> Here it is on UK site...
> 
> https://www.epson.co.uk/support?productID=18318


Oh, I see now what he was saying. Skimming/speed reading again.


----------



## marco1975

viperlogic said:


> Here it is on UK site...
> 
> https://www.epson.co.uk/support?productID=18318


Thanks.
it also just showed up on the epson.eu as well


----------



## terminal33

Evan201 said:


> I'm getting HDR to pass through Netflix and Amazon as well as Plex app and VUDU using the Nvidia Shield without linker or other hardware. 35' HDMI from mono price.
> 
> With Netflix use recommended settings of 4k / 59hz then do a restart of the shield tv and upon boot up switch over to 4k/24p in the shield HDMI settings.
> 
> Works like a charm from then on. Most of the time I'm setting the Shield to 1080/60hz with 4:2:2 12 Bit BT2020. Looks great and no judder.


Are you still able to get 4K/HDR with Netflix through the Shield? For some reason I can only get HDR and not 4K. This just started last night all of a sudden. I can still get 4K/HDR with Amazon and Vudu, not sure what happened with Netflix.


----------



## jwhn

terminal33 said:


> Are you still able to get 4K/HDR with Netflix through the Shield? For some reason I can only get HDR and not 4K. This just started last night all of a sudden. I can still get 4K/HDR with Amazon and Vudu, not sure what happened with Netflix.


It's a known issue that 4K/HDR is not supported on Netflix with the Shield / 5040 combination. You can see dozens of posts in this thread about it. I don't think there has been a single post of someone getting 4K/HDR.

The only surprise would be if were getting it before. If you were, the Netflix programming menu would show both UHD 4K and HDR.


----------



## terminal33

jwhn said:


> It's a known issue that 4K/HDR is not supported on Netflix with the Shield / 5040 combination. You can see dozens of posts in this thread about it. I don't think there has been a single post of someone getting 4K/HDR.
> 
> The only surprise would be if were getting it before. If you were, the Netflix programming menu would show both UHD 4K and HDR.


Hmm, I could have sworn that last night I had 4K/HDR with Netflix after setting the Shield to output at 4K 24Hz. I actually just got the Shield last night so my mind could have been confused with all the settings and testings I did.


----------



## jason_galaxy

OK, loaded 1.11

To my uncalibrated eye, big improvement in HDR. auto-bright now shows the bright sky as well as the cornrows on my favorite reference scene from StarTrek with the SAME settings as I use for SDR, no mode change needed.

Netflix HDR looks much better as well (Sony UBP-X800 streaming).

Lets see what our experts with measurement equipment say.

But to me, I can now switch between SDR and HDR content without loading new setting, etc. 
Good enough.


----------



## roland6465

I hate these freaking updates by USB. HATE THEM.

I have the same USB stick I used for the last one, deleted and reformatted to FAT, copied the .bin file over, inserted the drive into the projector, pulled power, held down the power button, plugged the damn thing back in while holding the power button, get 3 lights, projector fires up, then turns back off, turns back on, then back off, etc. Why?

eta- This time I released the power button as soon as the lights came on, it fired up for about 5 seconds, turned off, and now will not turn back on. FML.


----------



## jason_galaxy

Weird. Only thing I did different is I did not plug in the USB until after I unplugged the power but that should not matter.

Check the file size of the bin file. Mine shows 41,027 KB


----------



## philipbtz

roland6465 said:


> I hate these freaking updates by USB. HATE THEM.
> 
> I have the same USB stick I used for the last one, deleted and reformatted to FAT, copied the .bin file over, inserted the drive into the projector, pulled power, held down the power button, plugged the damn thing back in while holding the power button, get 3 lights, projector fires up, then turns back off, turns back on, then back off, etc. Why?
> 
> eta- This time I released the power button as soon as the lights came on, it fired up for about 5 seconds, turned off, and now will not turn back on. FML.


I bet you plugged it into the optical hdmi instead of USB port. The USB port is in the middle of the back.


----------



## philipbtz

jason_galaxy said:


> OK, loaded 1.11
> 
> To my uncalibrated eye, big improvement in HDR. auto-bright now shows the bright sky as well as the cornrows on my favorite reference scene from StarTrek with the SAME settings as I use for SDR, no mode change needed.
> 
> Netflix HDR looks much better as well (Sony UBP-X800 streaming).
> 
> Lets see what our experts with measurement equipment say.
> 
> But to me, I can now switch between SDR and HDR content without loading new setting, etc.
> Good enough.


I agree that it's way better but I don't think it's quite at the level of HarperVision settings. Tweaking HDR2 mode I think might yield amazing results but for me I'm getting too much black crush and highlight clipping.


----------



## roland6465

philipbtz said:


> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I hate these freaking updates by USB. HATE THEM.
> 
> I have the same USB stick I used for the last one, deleted and reformatted to FAT, copied the .bin file over, inserted the drive into the projector, pulled power, held down the power button, plugged the damn thing back in while holding the power button, get 3 lights, projector fires up, then turns back off, turns back on, then back off, etc. Why?
> 
> eta- This time I released the power button as soon as the lights came on, it fired up for about 5 seconds, turned off, and now will not turn back on. FML.
> 
> 
> 
> I bet you plugged it into the optical hdmi instead of USB port. The USB port is in the middle of the back.
Click to expand...

Nope, I?ve updated twice before and know which input to use. The power cord came loose from the back of the pj, so I have power again, just the same power on for 5-10 seconds and then off. Time to find a new usb drive.


----------



## roland6465

jason_galaxy said:


> Weird. Only thing I did different is I did not plug in the USB until after I unplugged the power but that should not matter.
> 
> Check the file size of the bin file. Mine shows 41,027 KB


I've got 42. Weird


----------



## oraclation

philipbtz said:


> I agree that it's way better but I don't think it's quite at the level of HarperVision settings. Tweaking HDR2 mode I think might yield amazing results but for me I'm getting too much black crush and highlight clipping.


I also installed 1.11. The difference in HDR is minor. HarperVision gamma curve plus contrast at 100, color at 75, still looks much better. I only use Digital Cinema in High lamp to compare as it is by far the best looking profile.

HarperVision is watchable, but if you want awesome HDR, try MPC-BE with madVR set to 120 nits or higher. Unlike HarperVision, it compensates for metadata of varying peak luminance. I really hope they implement madVR in Kodi/SBMC for the Shield TV, but it's unlikely the Shield TV will have the processing power to handle it, unlike a PC with GPU...


----------



## roland6465

Apparently, my Epson only likes brand new USB sticks. After refusing the two I had previously used for updates, this one started on the first try.


----------



## ruggercb

I’ve been wondering how a 25 mb internet connection can send a 4k hdr signal yet a 10 gb chip can’t handle it? I’m guessing it’s a decompressed signal but that’s some crazy decompression!!! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## peclark

Need some input from PC gamers. I use my PS4 on Epson but want to start PC gaming on it. Is there much noticeable difference in gaming in 1440P vs. 4K on the Epson? I am trying to decide between GTX 1080 or 1080TI. If 4K resolution isn't that much better over 1440P than I will save some money and get GTX 1080. I don't have a NVidea Shield yet, but plan to stream games from my computer with the Shield to the 5040. Thanks


----------



## Viche

A few random questions for you guys:

1. If Firmware 1.11 messes with HDR, does it affect the HarperVision settings?
2. Do active HDMI cables affect picture quality or input lag?
3. Does the Linker affect input lag?


----------



## ed3120

For those of you that have used a Linker to allow for 4K HDR 60p 8 bit....what is your opinion on how 8 bit HDR looks? Does it still look great? Am I correct in assuming that the darkest black, whitest white, and brightest colors are still exactly the same, with the difference just being less gradients between them? 

Do you see a lot of banding? Is it distracting or is it one of those things where you'd never really notice if someone didn't point it out to you?

The reason I ask all of this is because I've read that HDR requires a minimum of 10 bit, so I was wondering if downscaling from 10 bit to 8 bit is actually removing WCG or something. I just want to be clear on what the outcome will be before purchasing a Linker.


----------



## mase1981

ed3120 said:


> For those of you that have used a Linker to allow for 4K HDR 60p 8 bit....what is your opinion on how 8 bit HDR looks? Does it still look great? Am I correct in assuming that the darkest black, whitest white, and brightest colors are still exactly the same, with the difference just being less gradients between them?
> 
> Do you see a lot of banding? Is it distracting or is it one of those things where you'd never really notice if someone didn't point it out to you?
> 
> The reason I ask all of this is because I've read that HDR requires a minimum of 10 bit, so I was wondering if downscaling from 10 bit to 8 bit is actually removing WCG or something. I just want to be clear on what the outcome will be before purchasing a Linker.


i have the linker, purchased it for the XB1X and i can tell u i am very happy with the purchase.
glad i got it and i have zero issues with how it looks
games in 4k looks amazing


----------



## ed3120

mase1981 said:


> i have the linker, purchased it for the XB1X and i can tell u i am very happy with the purchase.
> glad i got it and i have zero issues with how it looks
> games in 4k looks amazing


Good to know. I also need to extract audio to an optical link, as I have an old receiver. Is there any reason I can't run both the extractor and the Linker in my chain? Would it introduce significant lag or any other concerns?

I was thinking: 
Shield -> 4K HDR capable audio extractor -> Linker -> 5040UB


----------



## mase1981

ed3120 said:


> Good to know. I also need to extract audio to an optical link, as I have an old receiver. Is there any reason I can't run both the extractor and the Linker in my chain? Would it introduce significant lag or any other concerns?
> 
> I was thinking:
> Shield -> 4K HDR capable audio extractor -> Linker -> 5040UB


why do you need the linker with the shield? many shield users here stated they can change the shield settings to accommodate the epson, eg - the shield can downscale by itself via settings. the linker is good when u got a 4k HDR receiver in the mix. 
and yeah, i would put the audio extractor before the linker rather then after. or upgrade ur receiver


----------



## ed3120

mase1981 said:


> why do you need the linker with the shield? many shield users here stated they can change the shield settings to accommodate the epson, eg - the shield can downscale by itself via settings. the linker is good when u got a 4k HDR receiver in the mix.
> and yeah, i would put the audio extractor before the linker rather then after. or upgrade ur receiver


Hmmm....maybe I don't need a Linker for the Shield. For 24p content, I could see where the Shield could handle it all without help. As for 60p content, setting the Shield to force it to 60p, would the video look bad, or would it just look more or less like native 24p content?


----------



## jwhn

ed3120 said:


> Hmmm....maybe I don't need a Linker for the Shield. For 24p content, I could see where the Shield could handle it all without help. As for 60p content, setting the Shield to force it to 60p, would the video look bad, or would it just look more or less like native 24p content?




It depends on the content. But you can change settings back and forth between 60p and 24p as needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## philipbtz

ed3120 said:


> For those of you that have used a Linker to allow for 4K HDR 60p 8 bit....what is your opinion on how 8 bit HDR looks? Does it still look great? Am I correct in assuming that the darkest black, whitest white, and brightest colors are still exactly the same, with the difference just being less gradients between them?
> 
> Do you see a lot of banding? Is it distracting or is it one of those things where you'd never really notice if someone didn't point it out to you?
> 
> The reason I ask all of this is because I've read that HDR requires a minimum of 10 bit, so I was wondering if downscaling from 10 bit to 8 bit is actually removing WCG or something. I just want to be clear on what the outcome will be before purchasing a Linker.


I've seen some banding but think about it this way even the new Sony 385ES at $7000 MSRP handles 60Hz at 8 bit so at this price point I don't think we should worry about it too much  You can get around it with the linker downscaling to 1080p60 4:4:4 BT2020 HDR instead but at the cost of resolution. That paticular mode for 60Hz has been buggy though and I've tried getting it resolved with HDFury with no luck(the 4k60 8b 4:2:0 HDR works with no bugs for me). I'm happy anyways considering the price of the projector. I like the Linker because I can get a picture with any input signal. The best way to get around the issue is to get a JVC I think.

To your question I still think the picture is good. If I'd paid like twice the price for the projector I would be complaining if I put it that way.


----------



## Juiced46

mase1981 said:


> 1. you set 2 profiles on the linker. One for in [email protected] and one for in [email protected]/30. You can also set 2 different output depending on the profile input used. check my sig for more info.
> 2. it can keep 10bit at 24p
> 3. linker is best used with receiver that can do 4k. it can strip the audio or pass it. in ur case scenario honestly best course of action would be to upgrade the receiver and get the linker. otherwise if you have more then 1 source, it complicate things. xb1x and ps4 does not have a second HDMI out for audio, and audio extractors are not best thing in the world. if you have the possibility to upgrade, do so. if not even if you do or dont use the linker you will need an audio extractor to get the audio out to the receiver.


Mase, have you tried Amazon Prime UHD with your Xbox One X and Linker? I cannot find a way with the Linker to stop this from happening. Since we are telling it when it gets a 4K\60 signal to output it at 8 bit. 

My only complaint is. With no Linker I was getting 4K/24hz HDR 12bit (the Epson would convert it on its own from 4K/60 HDR 12 bit) watching UHD titles on Amazon Prime which is what I want. Now with the Linker (Since Amazon sends 4k/60 HDR 12bit) The Linker sets it to 4K/60 8 Bit for UHD titles which is not what I want. Have you figured out a way around this aside from unplugging the Linker?


----------



## NetViper

ed3120 said:


> For those of you that have used a Linker to allow for 4K HDR 60p 8 bit....what is your opinion on how 8 bit HDR looks? Does it still look great? Am I correct in assuming that the darkest black, whitest white, and brightest colors are still exactly the same, with the difference just being less gradients between them?
> 
> Do you see a lot of banding? Is it distracting or is it one of those things where you'd never really notice if someone didn't point it out to you?
> 
> The reason I ask all of this is because I've read that HDR requires a minimum of 10 bit, so I was wondering if downscaling from 10 bit to 8 bit is actually removing WCG or something. I just want to be clear on what the outcome will be before purchasing a Linker.


I’ve seen minimal banding and it’s normally on a load screen like gears of war. As soon as the game starts I don’t see it. I haven’t played a ton yet though.


----------



## amarkow

The firmware update has made a big difference in brightness. I'm having to dial back some of the settings because the image was too bright and needed a boost in contrast. Would be interested if HarperVision changes as a result of the firmware update. First film up -- 4K Blade Runner. The shot of the approach to Tyrell Corporation building is phenomenal.


----------



## terminal33

I'm also liking the increased brightness with the 1.11 update. I'm currently using Oledurt Bright Cinema Version 2 for my HDR viewing. I briefly tried HarperVision and it seemed like 1.11 made it worse. I haven't tired any physical discs yet, only Vudu 4K HDR of Wonder Woman. I definitely liked the improved picture though.

Edit: With Oledurt v2 settings, I have brightness at 50 for my setup. But with the increased brightness of 1.11, I was curious and I set the HDMI Video Range to Auto instead of Expanded, and I actually liked it better. But I know Oledurt has it at Expanded for a reason. What am I missing if I leave it on Auto as opposed to Expanded? FYI: my viewing material was Le Mans in 4K/HDR via Amazon Prime with my Shield.

Edit (part 2): I tested scenes of Sully 4K BD and can see that Expanded is better.


----------



## Azekecse

amarkow said:


> The firmware update has made a big difference in brightness. I'm having to dial back some of the settings because the image was too bright and needed a boost in contrast. Would be interested if HarperVision changes as a result of the firmware update. First film up -- 4K Blade Runner. The shot of the approach to Tyrell Corporation building is phenomenal.


I concur Amarkow, I had to tweak some settings as well, then I played a few 4K movies and it looked more vibrant once I dialed back the brightness setting via Harpervision/Oldert settings. Updating to f/w 1.11 was an improvement, once settings were tweaked, at least to my eyes, YMMV of course. HDR settings don't seem as dark, esp., the HDR1 setting, which I changed to with Harpervision instead of the SDR setting which is now too bright. I will play with the settings more tonight w/ different devices, I am also happy with the new f/w.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Chris the Rock

I'm quite interested in what FW 1.11 does. If anyone can turn up a technical bulletin, I'd love to see it.

After the suggestions here that it provides increased "brightness", I installed the firmware to check it out. I'll share what I found just for anyone interested.

I fired up the R. Masciola test patterns, loaded my HDR memory preset(s), and discovered that I needed to make no adjustments to Contrast or Brightness based on the White Clipping or Black Clipping patterns after the FW was successfully applied. I have memory presets set up for Bright Cinema mode in ECO, MED, and HIGH lamp mode. I swap between them based on the overall light level of the content that I'm watching, and how much tolerance I have for the fan noise. From that I can deduce that nothing was changed in this FW update that is designed to materially change the way brightness and contrast works on the projector. **Edit: If I had to guess, I'd say it's an update to the Tone Mapping Algorithm, which would explain why some of you are needing to make adjustments if you're using HarperVision settings.

For those of you wondering, I've created my own memory presets after becoming weary of trying different people's settings. I set up an SDR preset with the Disney WOW disc and those 3 HDR presets with the R. Masciola test patterns. I am using the default gamma settings, because without measurement tools, I'd be guessing anyway.

I then resumed the UHD movie that was in my Oppo player (Baby Driver) to see if I could tell any difference. Honestly, I can't remember what it looked like on my previous FW (1.09) to be able to say. It still looks good. 

I could be persuaded to think that the overall picture level is a little higher, but my only thought is - it looks good. I'd like to check out more content when I have the chance. If it helps the average picture level of a really dark movie like Star Trek Beyond or Arrival, I'll be delighted. 

I didn't have time to thoroughly investigate all the menus to see if something was added.


----------



## ed3120

I'm considering going with the wireless 5040UBE for the convenience of not running wires across my house. 

Also, the wireless transmitter module seems to have an optical audio out that I can run to my non 4K receiver. I would run an HDMI from my Shield directly to that module and use the optical to get the audio to my receiver. The money saved on skipping a long, quality 4K HDR HDMI cable and an HDMI audio extractor box is close to the cost difference of the UBE.

Are there any downsides to the UBE? For anyone that has one, is the connection solid when using higher resolutions and HDR, or does it drop? I don't want to pay extra money for the wireless option, just to have it be unreliable and force me to wire everything up anyway.

Does the UBE solve any of the HDMI port bandwidth issues with 4K HDR 60p or is it the same story as the regular 5040UB?

Does the wireless transmission add any latency?


----------



## amarkow

Azekecse said:


> I concur Amarkow, I had to tweak some settings as well, then I played a few 4K movies and it looked more vibrant once I dialed back the brightness setting via Harpervision/Oldert settings. Updating to f/w 1.11 was an improvement, once settings were tweaked, at least to my eyes, YMMV of course. HDR settings don't seem as dark, esp., the HDR1 setting, which I changed to with Harpervision instead of the SDR setting which is now too bright. I will play with the settings more tonight w/ different devices, I am also happy with the new f/w.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


I'll give the HDR1 setting a try. Thanks for that info.


----------



## Chris the Rock

Azekecse said:


> HDR settings don't seem as dark, esp., the HDR1 setting, which I changed to with Harpervision instead of the SDR setting which is now too bright.


I just read this more carefully.

It's been mentioned on this forum many times, but it's admittedly impossible to find within 400+ pages: HarperVision isn't meant to be used with HDR Dynamic Range modes (HDR1, HDR2, etc). HarperVision is for feeding HDR content to the projector, while keeping the Dynamic Range mode set on SDR. A Custom Gamma curve is applied, and the projector is set in Digital Cinema Color Mode (introducing the P3 Color Filter, reducing the overall light output). 

Once set that way, the user-menu adjustments like Brightness, Contrast, Color Saturation, and Tint have to be set to specific values to counteract the odd appearance you'd have leaving them at their default settings. 

I understand that these settings were devised to overcome a weakness in the tone mapping algorithm which gives this projector a very dim appearance when viewing HDR content in an HDR Dynamic Range mode. Forcing the Dynamic Range mode to SDR and tweaking the Gamma and user menu controls "fixes" the issue, and gives the image a lot more "pop".

I personally liked it very much, but since the HarperVision settings lacked Color Management System control settings, and because it requires the projector to be permanently set to SDR Dynamic Range mode with High Lamp output (and I do plenty of gaming) I eventually decided against making it my permanent choice.

My point is, if you use the HarperVision settings as published, but change the Dynamic Range mode from SDR to HDR Auto Bright (or any of the HDR settings), all the other user menu and Gamma settings will not yield correct results - at least not results that Mr. Harper intended when he shared the settings. So please, if you change off of SDR Dynamic Range, please consider making adjustments to the user menu controls. I'd recommend downloading the R. Masciola Test Patterns and using the Basic Test Patterns to set Brightness, Contrast, Color Saturation, and Tint. 

When we learn what actually happened with this Firmware Update (1.11), it might shed light on why people are feeling that the HarperVision settings were "too bright" after the update.


----------



## Azekecse

Chris the Rock said:


> I just read this more carefully.
> 
> It's been mentioned on this forum many times, but it's admittedly impossible to find within 400+ pages: HarperVision isn't meant to be used with HDR Dynamic Range modes (HDR1, HDR2, etc). HarperVision is for feeding HDR content to the projector, while keeping the Dynamic Range mode set on SDR. A Custom Gamma curve is applied, and the projector is set in Digital Cinema Color Mode (introducing the P3 Color Filter, reducing the overall light output).
> 
> Once set that way, the user-menu adjustments like Brightness, Contrast, Color Saturation, and Tint have to be set to specific values to counteract the odd appearance you'd have leaving them at their default settings.
> 
> I understand that these settings were devised to overcome a weakness in the tone mapping algorithm which gives this projector a very dim appearance when viewing HDR content in an HDR Dynamic Range mode. Forcing the Dynamic Range mode to SDR and tweaking the Gamma and user menu controls "fixes" the issue, and gives the image a lot more "pop".
> 
> I personally liked it very much, but since the HarperVision settings lacked Color Management System control settings, and because it requires the projector to be permanently set to SDR Dynamic Range mode with High Lamp output (and I do plenty of gaming) I eventually decided against making it my permanent choice.
> 
> My point is, if you use the HarperVision settings as published, but change the Dynamic Range mode from SDR to HDR Auto Bright (or any of the HDR settings), all the other user menu and Gamma settings will not yield correct results - at least not results that Mr. Harper intended when he shared the settings. So please, if you change off of SDR Dynamic Range, please consider making adjustments to the user menu controls. I'd recommend downloading the R. Masciola Test Patterns and using the Basic Test Patterns to set Brightness, Contrast, Color Saturation, and Tint.
> 
> When we learn what actually happened with this Firmware Update (1.11), it might shed light on why people are feeling that the HarperVision settings were "too bright" after the update.


So I guess it's "all in the eyes of the beholder" , Stay Tuned...I'm still bewildered by the lack of f/w release notes by some companies.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## amarkow

Azekecse said:


> So I guess it's "all in the eyes of the beholder" , Stay Tuned...I'm still bewildered by the lack of f/w release notes by some companies.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


I also use Hapervision settings and adjusted the main settings (saturation, contrast, brightness) as well as the color tone settings. Thus far I've left the gamma settings alone. I'm still tweaking the image, so I don't think I'm at the final settings yet, but the picture looks much better. Interestingly, my HDTV colors were too saturated with 1.11, so I dialed back these settings as well.


----------



## viperlogic

Re HDR changed in 1.11 I have attached full tilt boogie sweeps using HCFR 3.4.6.2 beta with a i1D3 meter on f/w on 1.09 and then on 1.11, where all settings were reset back to default and HDR1 mode, iris off, high lamp for both.

It can be seen below that the tone mapping has changed and alas 1.11 (solid yellow) is brighter than 1.09 (dotted yellow) thou peak is reduced 147 nits to 142 nits


----------



## Chris the Rock

viperlogic said:


> Re HDR changed in 1.11 I have attached full tilt boogie sweeps using HCFR 3.4.6.2 beta with a i1D3 meter on f/w on 1.09 and then on 1.11, where all settings were reset back to default and HDR1 mode, iris off, high lamp for both.
> 
> It can be seen below that the tone mapping has changed and alas 1.11 (solid yellow) is brighter than 1.09 (dotted yellow) thou peak is reduced 147 nits to 142 nits


I appreciate you sharing this, and I wish I understood some of the lingo a little bit better. But in general, I think I get it. Looks like the tone mapping allows more light output starting at 20% white. The result would be, I suspect, a picture that doesn't look quite as "dim" overall, right?

I have a couple questions, though:
What's the dotted white line in the graph represent? Is that some kind of standard?
What program can I use to view these graphs that you've attached?

One last question:
Are you a professional calibrator? If not, did you teach yourself this stuff? I am interested in learning more myself.


----------



## achanonier

HI There

Tried new firmware yesterday, indeed HDR1 is brighter on the mid ranges and HDR2 seems to crushes the whites realiers than previous HDR2.
I dialed in somes pretty good settings using natural and HDR1.

However I can confirm that as SDR is unchanged it doesn't make any difference with Harpervision HDR on SDR setting... I d'ont know how peoples can see any difference if they are using this settings correctly...

An again for thoses claiming that they get better results using HDR1 on Harpervision instead of SDR, either there is something very wrong in your setup or you dialed in completely diffrent contrast and gamma settings so it's not Harpervision anymore. HDR setting with Harpervison is way out ot place and completely unwatchable which is meant to be that way as it has been made to be used with SDR range mapping on an HDR signal.


----------



## viperlogic

Anyone using Kodi on Nvidia Shield with their Epson to playback 4K UHD remux's? Played Batman v Superman l night and found the picture very grainy if thats the right term


----------



## achanonier

The UHD blu ray is also very grainy ... Dark interior scenes don't look good to me...


----------



## rupedogg24

peclark said:


> Need some input from PC gamers. I use my PS4 on Epson but want to start PC gaming on it. Is there much noticeable difference in gaming in 1440P vs. 4K on the Epson? I am trying to decide between GTX 1080 or 1080TI. If 4K resolution isn't that much better over 1440P than I will save some money and get GTX 1080. I don't have a NVidea Shield yet, but plan to stream games from my computer with the Shield to the 5040. Thanks


I have a pc running the gtx1080 and it works great. I Have it on high settings and the games are gorgeous. Huge difference than my ps4. I haven't tried 1440 because I don't feel there's a need to. The 1080 works great. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## chickenbc49

viperlogic said:


> Anyone using Kodi on Nvidia Shield with their Epson to playback 4K UHD remux's? Played Batman v Superman l night and found the picture very grainy if thats the right term



The batman vs superman movie have a lot of grain also in 1080p, and the woobulation system of this Epson amplify grain ( my POV) .

Try "the great wall" in 4K REMUX , on shield it's the best quality i have seen ! ( real master 4K)


----------



## Stephen1254

*Lens Position and Lens Memory?*

I've done my research and searched this thread but I still don't have any real idea what the lens position and lens memory does. I see references to "constant height" and filling the screen, but also reference to a 2.35:1 screen.

I'm using a 16:9 screen. When I'm watching a widescreen movie, I see black bars top and bottom, like always. Does this feature help me in anyway?

Sorry if I sound dense...


----------



## ruggercb

Stephen1254 said:


> I've done my research and searched this thread but I still don't have any real idea what the lens position and lens memory does. I see references to "constant height" and filling the screen, but also reference to a 2.35:1 screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using a 16:9 screen. When I'm watching a widescreen movie, I see black bars top and bottom, like always. Does this feature help me in anyway?
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if I sound dense...




Constant height refers to having a 2.35 screen and using the zoom and memory functions so 2.35:1, 16:9 and 4:3 are always the same height. 

In your case, if you wanted constant height on the 16:9 screen, the 2.35 image would be zoomed in to be tall enough, but then it would be too wide and project on the walls.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stephen1254

ruggercb said:


> Constant height refers to having a 2.35 screen and using the zoom and memory functions so 2.35:1, 16:9 and 4:3 are always the same height.
> 
> In your case, if you wanted constant height on the 16:9 screen, the 2.35 image would be zoomed in to be tall enough, but then it would be too wide and project on the walls.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I understand that. If you are using a 2.35 screen wouldn't the image always be full height, but a 16:9 source would just show black bars on the sides?


----------



## Chris the Rock

Stephen1254 said:


> I've done my research and searched this thread but I still don't have any real idea what the lens position and lens memory does. I see references to "constant height" and filling the screen, but also reference to a 2.35:1 screen.
> 
> I'm using a 16:9 screen. When I'm watching a widescreen movie, I see black bars top and bottom, like always. Does this feature help me in anyway?
> 
> Sorry if I sound dense...


It will not help for the situation you described, unless you had a 2.35:1 screen. 

I have a 2.35:1 screen, and here's how I use Lens Memory:
- First, My screen about 152" wide, and is 59 inches tall. (This is the height of a 120" Diagonal 16:9 screen). When I watch 16:9 content, it fills the height of the screen, and I have about 17" on either side of the screen that is unused. I have a Lens Memory Preset assigned to this size image.

- When I watch "widescreen" content (2.39:1, 2.40:1), I have set up a Lens Memory preset, by using the Lens Shift and Zoom controls on the remote. I would "zoom" the lens on the projector until the sides of the content touch the sides of the screen, leaving a very small "black bar" border on the top and/or bottom -- or, until the content touches the top and bottom of the screen, causing a very small amount of content to spill over on the sides of the screen. *If the content is exactly 2.35:1, it should fit exactly in the screen area with no borders and no overscan.

Note: These "black bar" borders on the top and bottom are hardly visible. On my 152" screen, they are maybe an inch.

- Once I have the image zoomed onto the screen, I set a second Lens Memory Preset for this size.

- When I want to come back to 16:9 content, I'd hit "Lens1", recalling that first memory preset. When going to widescreen content, I hit "Lens2".


----------



## ruggercb

Stephen1254 said:


> I understand that. If you are using a 2.35 screen wouldn't the image always be full height, but a 16:9 source would just show black bars on the sides?




Unfortunately not. The 16:9 image will spill over the top and bottom when zoomed in for 2.35. Think of it like this: the black bars are part of the image being sent to the projector, it’s just you’re zooming in to the part you care about. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tup

Chris the Rock said:


> It will not help for the situation you described, unless you had a 2.35:1 screen.
> 
> I have a 2.35:1 screen, and here's how I use Lens Memory:
> - First, My screen about 152" wide, and is 59 inches tall. (This is the height of a 120" Diagonal 16:9 screen). When I watch 16:9 content, it fills the height of the screen, and I have about 17" on either side of the screen that is unused. I have a Lens Memory Preset assigned to this size image.
> 
> - When I watch "widescreen" content (2.39:1, 2.40:1), I have set up a Lens Memory preset, by using the Lens Shift and Zoom controls on the remote. I would "zoom" the lens on the projector until the sides of the content touch the sides of the screen, leaving a very small "black bar" border on the top and/or bottom -- or, until the content touches the top and bottom of the screen, causing a very small amount of content to spill over on the sides of the screen. *If the content is exactly 2.35:1, it should fit exactly in the screen area with no borders and no overscan.
> 
> Note: These "black bar" borders on the top and bottom are hardly visible. On my 152" screen, they are maybe an inch.
> 
> - Once I have the image zoomed onto the screen, I set a second Lens Memory Preset for this size.
> 
> - When I want to come back to 16:9 content, I'd hit "Lens1", recalling that first memory preset. When going to widescreen content, I hit "Lens2".


OK, I have a similar setup with a 120" 2.35-1 screen. I recently upgraded from a 8500UB. I have set memory 1 and memory 2 but I find that switching between the 2 settings is often slightly off and I have to adjust it a little after each switch. I have tried re-saving the memory settings but it is usually still off a little. It seems to be off mostly left or right of center. I haven't had time to trouble shoot or look in the manual but is this typical? It's not a huge deal but if I can fix this issue...all the better.


----------



## Chris the Rock

Tup said:


> OK, I have a similar setup with a 120" 2.35-1 screen. I recently upgraded from a 8500UB. I have set memory 1 and memory 2 but I find that switching between the 2 settings is often slightly off and I have to adjust it a little after each switch. I have tried re-saving the memory settings but it is usually still off a little. It seems to be off mostly left or right of center. I haven't had time to trouble shoot or look in the manual but is this typical? It's not a huge deal but if I can fix this issue...all the better.


Personally, I've had the issue you're describing once or twice, seemingly out of the blue. 

When it happened the last time, I noticed it when coming back from the 2.35:1 setting to the 1.78:1 setting. It was a off a good deal to the left. Since I leave my screen un-masked most of the time it didn't bother me, but when I went from there to the 2.35:1 position, it carried that shift forward and it was clearly wrong. 

I cleared my presets and started over, and it's been pretty good since then. Sometimes I tweak it just a tad, but it's never really bad - and I'm pretty anal retentive about it being lined up on the edges.


----------



## knmlee

ed3120 said:


> I'm considering going with the wireless 5040UBE for the convenience of not running wires across my house.
> 
> Also, the wireless transmitter module seems to have an optical audio out that I can run to my non 4K receiver. I would run an HDMI from my Shield directly to that module and use the optical to get the audio to my receiver. The money saved on skipping a long, quality 4K HDR HDMI cable and an HDMI audio extractor box is close to the cost difference of the UBE.
> 
> Are there any downsides to the UBE? For anyone that has one, is the connection solid when using higher resolutions and HDR, or does it drop? I don't want to pay extra money for the wireless option, just to have it be unreliable and force me to wire everything up anyway.
> 
> Does the UBE solve any of the HDMI port bandwidth issues with 4K HDR 60p or is it the same story as the regular 5040UB?
> 
> Does the wireless transmission add any latency?


I just got my 5040ube, so not able to answer all of your questions. You mention not wanting to run wires "across my house". Assume you meant, across the "room"? The wireless transmitter has to be in the line of sight with the projector to work. That is probably the biggest downside. In a perfect world, I'd like to hide the transmitter away in a cabinet, but that won't work. The connection seems solid to me on 4K / HDR. I haven't tried to run any content with 4K HDR 60p, so can't comment on that. The only other thing of note is that there is a small delay when you change source resolutions (say from 1080p to 4K) while the wireless connection re-syncs. Nothing too bad, but the screen goes blank while it is happening. Other than that, I'd say "so far so good". I didn't really want to hassle with a cable if I didn't have to, which is why I went with the ube. Hope that helps.


----------



## old corps

I'm unable to use my 5040's remote to control my 4K Bluray player (Sony X800). CEC/HDMI Link is turned on in the pj, a/v receiver (Onkyo RZ710) and player. It worked fine initially, doesn't now. What am I missing or what did I screw up?  Any suggestions appreciated!


Ed


----------



## jason_galaxy

ed3120 said:


> I'm considering going with the wireless 5040UBE for the convenience of not running wires across my house.
> 
> Also, the wireless transmitter module seems to have an optical audio out that I can run to my non 4K receiver. I would run an HDMI from my Shield directly to that module and use the optical to get the audio to my receiver. The money saved on skipping a long, quality 4K HDR HDMI cable and an HDMI audio extractor box is close to the cost difference of the UBE.
> 
> Are there any downsides to the UBE? For anyone that has one, is the connection solid when using higher resolutions and HDR, or does it drop? I don't want to pay extra money for the wireless option, just to have it be unreliable and force me to wire everything up anyway.
> 
> Does the UBE solve any of the HDMI port bandwidth issues with 4K HDR 60p or is it the same story as the regular 5040UB?
> 
> Does the wireless transmission add any latency?


I have the UBE and if I had it to do over I probably wouldn't get it. No transmission issues and it will do 4K 60p HDR but it converts to 8bit. I don't game so I can't tell you if there is any lag time but I don't see any difference with video/audio sync compared to the wired input.

The biggest problem is format change sync time. Changing from a 720p to 1080i source (on directv for example) can take 20 seconds or so as opposed to just a couple wired.

There is also an issue with the audio out. I was having video banding issues when both audio and video was sent to the transmitter. After much back and forth with Support we found the problem went away when only video was sent to the wireless. So your idea is not recommended. Any complaints I had were met with "well we can't change the transmitter because we OEM it from another company."

Buy the UB and spend the difference on a good HDMI switch.


----------



## sddp

ed3120 said:


> I'm considering going with the wireless 5040UBE for the convenience of not running wires across my house.
> 
> Also, the wireless transmitter module seems to have an optical audio out that I can run to my non 4K receiver. I would run an HDMI from my Shield directly to that module and use the optical to get the audio to my receiver. The money saved on skipping a long, quality 4K HDR HDMI cable and an HDMI audio extractor box is close to the cost difference of the UBE.
> 
> Are there any downsides to the UBE? For anyone that has one, is the connection solid when using higher resolutions and HDR, or does it drop? I don't want to pay extra money for the wireless option, just to have it be unreliable and force me to wire everything up anyway.
> 
> Does the UBE solve any of the HDMI port bandwidth issues with 4K HDR 60p or is it the same story as the regular 5040UB?
> 
> Does the wireless transmission add any latency?



I have the UBE and the wireless unit is on the front of the theater near the floor in cabinet and the projector is hanging from the ceiling about 25' away and no issues, and I game a lot online on PS4 with no issues. The only thing I noticed if I switch from PS4 to XBOX or to TV the screen goes black for about 10 seconds or so. Also goes blank when I change setting like Dynamic to Cinema. But use to it and the convenience of not having a 40' HDMI that would have other issues or running the cable, handshake, etc is SOOO worth it.

Think of it this way, worst case scenario the wireless didn't work for what ever reason, you still have a regular Epson, it still has the regular connections. Plus the Wireless has 4 inputs and an output. Win-in all around for an extra $300


----------



## Brian Zibricky

Hi Everyone - first time poster. I've recently built out a new home theater with the 5040 and I'm using an Xbox One X for 4K disc playback. I've applied some of the HDR settings posted here in the forum but thus far have been rather disappointed in the results. This is my first projector so my expectations may have been out of reach, but I don't see any difference at all between standard blu-rays which the projector up-scales, and native 4K blu-rays. Does anyone experience significant improvement with 4K discs? I've compared Skull Island and La La Land with their standard blu-ray counterparts and there is no sharper image or deeper level of color at all. Would I see any difference with a different player other than the Xbox One X?


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

The player itself can make a difference. 

check if you have propper settings output form the player and if 4K / HDR 4:2:2 12 bit signal is reaching the projector

Normally there is noticable difference in BD vs UHD. You should see more colors, HDR effect bit sharper image. Keep in mind standard blu rays do look very good thanks to image enhancement features. UHD is also dependent on the movie itself. On some the difference is not that big, but take oblivion or passengers for instance and you will see what I mean. You wont like to watch old BD version anymore...


----------



## ed3120

jason_galaxy said:


> ed3120 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm considering going with the wireless 5040UBE for the convenience of not running wires across my house.
> 
> Also, the wireless transmitter module seems to have an optical audio out that I can run to my non 4K receiver. I would run an HDMI from my Shield directly to that module and use the optical to get the audio to my receiver. The money saved on skipping a long, quality 4K HDR HDMI cable and an HDMI audio extractor box is close to the cost difference of the UBE.
> 
> Are there any downsides to the UBE? For anyone that has one, is the connection solid when using higher resolutions and HDR, or does it drop? I don't want to pay extra money for the wireless option, just to have it be unreliable and force me to wire everything up anyway.
> 
> Does the UBE solve any of the HDMI port bandwidth issues with 4K HDR 60p or is it the same story as the regular 5040UB?
> 
> Does the wireless transmission add any latency?
> 
> 
> 
> I have the UBE and if I had it to do over I probably wouldn't get it. No transmission issues and it will do 4K 60p HDR but it converts to 8bit. I don't game so I can't tell you if there is any lag time but I don't see any difference with video/audio sync compared to the wired input.
> 
> The biggest problem is format change sync time. Changing from a 720p to 1080i source (on directv for example) can take 20 seconds or so as opposed to just a couple wired.
> 
> There is also an issue with the audio out. I was having video banding issues when both audio and video was sent to the transmitter. After much back and forth with Support we found the problem went away when only video was sent to the wireless. So your idea is not recommended. Any complaints I had were met with "well we can't change the transmitter because we OEM it from another company."
> 
> Buy the UB and spend the difference on a good HDMI switch.
Click to expand...

So it automatically negotiates 4K HDR 60p to 8 bit and it keeps the HDR? That actually sounds pretty great. If I could do that without a Linker it would save a bunch of money there. 

When you say ?with audio and video? going to the transmitter, how did you pull audio from the signal to resolve the issue? Or did you just unplug the optical to get that to work?

And then how did you get audio at all? Did you have to buy an extra for box and put it in line before the Epson transmitter?


----------



## ed3120

sddp said:


> ed3120 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm considering going with the wireless 5040UBE for the convenience of not running wires across my house.
> 
> Also, the wireless transmitter module seems to have an optical audio out that I can run to my non 4K receiver. I would run an HDMI from my Shield directly to that module and use the optical to get the audio to my receiver. The money saved on skipping a long, quality 4K HDR HDMI cable and an HDMI audio extractor box is close to the cost difference of the UBE.
> 
> Are there any downsides to the UBE? For anyone that has one, is the connection solid when using higher resolutions and HDR, or does it drop? I don't want to pay extra money for the wireless option, just to have it be unreliable and force me to wire everything up anyway.
> 
> Does the UBE solve any of the HDMI port bandwidth issues with 4K HDR 60p or is it the same story as the regular 5040UB?
> 
> Does the wireless transmission add any latency?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the UBE and the wireless unit is on the front of the theater near the floor in cabinet and the projector is hanging from the ceiling about 25' away and no issues, and I game a lot online on PS4 with no issues. The only thing I noticed if I switch from PS4 to XBOX or to TV the screen goes black for about 10 seconds or so. Also goes blank when I change setting like Dynamic to Cinema. But use to it and the convenience of not having a 40' HDMI that would have other issues or running the cable, handshake, etc is SOOO worth it.
> 
> Think of it this way, worst case scenario the wireless didn't work for what ever reason, you still have a regular Epson, it still has the regular connections. Plus the Wireless has 4 inputs and an output. Win-in all around for an extra $300
Click to expand...


Are you gaming with the PS4 at 4K HDR 60p 8 bit? If so, is that something you set in the PS4 or did the Epson automatically negotiate that?

I don?t have a PS4, but I do have an nVidia Shield and I would love there to be a way to push 4K HDR 60p from Youtube/Netflix/Amazon without having to put a Linker in between. 

Do you notice lag issues when jumping between 720p and 1080i like Jason?


----------



## john barlow

Stephen1254 said:


> I've done my research and searched this thread but I still don't have any real idea what the lens position and lens memory does. I see references to "constant height" and filling the screen, but also reference to a 2.35:1 screen.
> 
> I'm using a 16:9 screen. When I'm watching a widescreen movie, I see black bars top and bottom, like always. Does this feature help me in anyway?
> 
> Sorry if I sound dense...


 The feature is for film buffs like me who view on a scope screen. Call it what you like, Cinemascope, Panavision or 2:35.1. 16/9 is the aspect ration for flat panel full HD screens and there are no bars for TV shows and the like. Most films however, are 2:35 or 2:40 so, film buffs purchase a screen size conducive to viewing Hollywood feature films.


----------



## john barlow

Stephen1254 said:


> I understand that. If you are using a 2.35 screen wouldn't the image always be full height, but a 16:9 source would just show black bars on the sides?


 Yes, but, in a home cinema with controlled light often during viewing, all you see is the content on the screen. 90% of the films I view are of the wide screen and not the 16/9 TV viewing size. So, we don't really care that much if maybe one in ten or twenty films are 16/9. it's quite rare actually.


----------



## john barlow

MartyMcFlyy said:


> The player itself can make a difference.
> 
> check if you have propper settings output form the player and if 4K / HDR 4:2:2 12 bit signal is reaching the projector
> 
> Normally there is noticable difference in BD vs UHD. You should see more colors, HDR effect bit sharper image. Keep in mind standard blu rays do look very good thanks to image enhancement features. UHD is also dependent on the movie itself. On some the difference is not that big, but take oblivion or passengers for instance and you will see what I mean. You wont like to watch old BD version anymore...


 The synergy up and down the chain is very important for optimum viewing. I imagine that given some time as you familiarize yourself with your setup, improvements will start showing up as you become more savvy when it comes to settings. Screen choice is very important too. I chose, when designing our home cinema, to shoot the wad and purchase a highly regarded screen from Stewart Filmscreen I was lucky to find an online seller who saved me a whopping 30% off retail so, I paid about a thousand less than full retail. I'll more than likely never need another screen. It's one of the best decisions I've ever made regarding home theater. The screen is spectacular and remains a steady performer through all the upgrades of various gear over the last eight years since the genesis of our home cinema. Projectors, players and content is always moving forward faster and faster. Replacing projectors, players and Pre/pros over the long haul are a reality for the obsessive fans of this hobby. I am no exception. We're up to date for now but, I expect that within a year or two, I'll be getting the upgrade bug again. Do yourself a big favor and read all you can about emerging technologies so you can save money by making sure your gear has the features you want and need. The next new thing is always right around the corner.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Stephen1254 said:


> I've done my research and searched this thread but I still don't have any real idea what the lens position and lens memory does. I see references to "constant height" and filling the screen, but also reference to a 2.35:1 screen.
> 
> I'm using a 16:9 screen. When I'm watching a widescreen movie, I see black bars top and bottom, like always. Does this feature help me in anyway?


To answer your question directly:
No, with a 16:9 screen you would just keep the lens zoom in one position and “live with” the top and bottom black bars, i.e., you won’t benefit much from the powered zoom.


----------



## marco1975

Brian Zibricky said:


> Hi Everyone - first time poster. I've recently built out a new home theater with the 5040 and I'm using an Xbox One X for 4K disc playback. I've applied some of the HDR settings posted here in the forum but thus far have been rather disappointed in the results. This is my first projector so my expectations may have been out of reach, but I don't see any difference at all between standard blu-rays which the projector up-scales, and native 4K blu-rays. Does anyone experience significant improvement with 4K discs? I've compared Skull Island and La La Land with their standard blu-ray counterparts and there is no sharper image or deeper level of color at all. Would I see any difference with a different player other than the Xbox One X?


Maybe u woudn,t see a sharper image from 4k movies becaus this is still 1080p projector and not nativ 4k. (personaly i don,t see it either) but u should be able to experience a more deeper color and better overall image from HDR. assuming u have set everything right? 
i would suggest that make sure that your player is sending HDR. to the projector, make sure that the HDR. setting in the projector it's set to (Auto bright), and use only either cinema/cinema bright mode because dci-p3 filters is activated on these mode. 
and lastly don,t set expectations too high, because still even the best projector can,t even come remotly close to what u would get from tv. when it comes to HDR.


----------



## Dominic Chan

marco1975 said:


> i would suggest that make sure that your player is sending HDR. to the projector, make sure that the HDR. setting in the projector it's set to (Auto bright), and use only either cinema/cinema bright mode because dci-p3 filters is activated on these mode.


I believe the DCI-P3 filters are only activated in the _Digital_ Cinema mode, resulting in a huge drop in luminance.


----------



## marco1975

Dominic Chan said:


> I believe the DCI-P3 filters are only activated in the _Digital_ Cinema mode, resulting in a huge drop in luminance.


As far as i know the DCI-P3 filters is activated on both cinema mode, because they are both the same, with cinema bright mode being tweaked a little bit to give a bit brighter image. yes u will give up some luminance but u will gain deeper black and more color accuracy, which would translate to a more depth in the picture


----------



## Dominic Chan

marco1975 said:


> As far as i know the DCI-P3 filters is activated on both cinema mode, because they are both the same, with cinema bright mode being tweaked a little bit to give a bit brighter image. yes u will give up some luminance but u will gain deeper black and more color accuracy, which would translate to a more depth in the picture


Cinema Bright may be the same as Cinema (except brighter), but I was referring to *Digital* Cinema, a different mode from both of those.


----------



## seplant

Tup said:


> OK, I have a similar setup with a 120" 2.35-1 screen. I recently upgraded from a 8500UB. I have set memory 1 and memory 2 but I find that switching between the 2 settings is often slightly off and I have to adjust it a little after each switch. I have tried re-saving the memory settings but it is usually still off a little. It seems to be off mostly left or right of center. I haven't had time to trouble shoot or look in the manual but is this typical? It's not a huge deal but if I can fix this issue...all the better.


There is a specific method for properly setting lens memory that eliminates the problem you describe. See post #4181 in this thread.


----------



## Juiced46

Brian Zibricky said:


> Hi Everyone - first time poster. I've recently built out a new home theater with the 5040 and I'm using an Xbox One X for 4K disc playback. I've applied some of the HDR settings posted here in the forum but thus far have been rather disappointed in the results. This is my first projector so my expectations may have been out of reach, but I don't see any difference at all between standard blu-rays which the projector up-scales, and native 4K blu-rays. Does anyone experience significant improvement with 4K discs? I've compared Skull Island and La La Land with their standard blu-ray counterparts and there is no sharper image or deeper level of color at all. Would I see any difference with a different player other than the Xbox One X?


Can you fire up a 4K UHD movie and please post a screen shot of the projector info menu.


----------



## marco1975

Dominic Chan said:


> Cinema Bright may be the same as Cinema (except brighter), but I was referring to *Digital* Cinema, a different mode from both of those.


oh. i forgot how many cinema mode there is on the 9300, it,s been a while i havn,t use the projector, should have been more specific , but still the DCI-P 3 filters should be activated on both cinema and digital cinema, wich i more correctly meant, u can even hear it kicking in switching to those mode.


----------



## welldun

Brian Zibricky said:


> Hi Everyone - first time poster. I've recently built out a new home theater with the 5040 and I'm using an Xbox One X for 4K disc playback. I've applied some of the HDR settings posted here in the forum but thus far have been rather disappointed in the results. This is my first projector so my expectations may have been out of reach, but I don't see any difference at all between standard blu-rays which the projector up-scales, and native 4K blu-rays. Does anyone experience significant improvement with 4K discs? I've compared Skull Island and La La Land with their standard blu-ray counterparts and there is no sharper image or deeper level of color at all. Would I see any difference with a different player other than the Xbox One X?


Welcome to the thread. there are a few things that you can check, as many here have already suggested. I do want to ask if you have used your Xbox on something other than this projector and if so, was it able to process 4K? For instance, If you have a 4K tv, did you do a similar comparison between the 1080P source material and its 4K version? If so, did you see a big difference in picture quality then? 

It's possible that as you said, your expectations for the projector might be higher than they should be, but it is also possible that the difference between 1080p and 4k that you are testing is not that drastic! there are some very good copies of movies in 1080p that in my opinion rival the clarity of some other 4k movies. If for instance this is the case with your test material, it is possible that since you are also upscaling the 1080p version, and if the upcaling being done is good enough, there won't be a huge difference betweeen the upscaled 1080p and its 4K version. 

Another thing to consider is the size of the screeen and the distance from which you are viewing it. If you sit far enough from a screen, even 720p will look as sharp as 4k. 

As others have also mentioned, a proper calibration along with making sure that your settings are correct at the source and projector (as well as the AVR if you are using one), will make a big difference when watching either 1080p or 4K. The HDR portion which will be available in most 4K discs, will be the added bonus when it comes to getting even better color and brightness over the 1080p. 

I would suggest that you try the HDR settings posted by Dave Harper "HarperVision" among others. On my setup, I can certainly see a difference between the 1080p copy and the 4k copy when watching Kong Skull Island. the color definitely pops more on the 4k.


----------



## NetViper

Installed 1.11. Here are some shots of gears of War in dynamic and hdr2 with the linker. I think it looks amazing. No banding in game play.


----------



## inspector

john barlow said:


> Yes, but, in a home cinema with controlled light often during viewing, all you see is the content on the screen. 90% of the films I view are of the wide screen and not the 16/9 TV viewing size. So, we don't really care that much if maybe one in ten or twenty films are 16/9. it's quite rare actually.



You need to do some research before you start spouting about filming aspect ratios.


----------



## WildThing

*Constant area ratio*



Stephen1254 said:


> I understand that. If you are using a 2.35 screen wouldn't the image always be full height, but a 16:9 source would just show black bars on the sides?


Better than that. I'm using a 16:9 106" electrical screen. But when I roll it up, I have a 2.35:1 115" fixed screen behind. So it's "constant area ratio". 16:9 and 2.35:1 image are both arount 4,800 square inches within 1% of each other. No black bars at all. When I began, I used white paper photograph backdrop with a DIY frame around. I liked it so much that I bought a 2.35:1 screen after that and it's not my #1 priority when choosing a projector. Give it a try on your all!

The 2.35:1 image within a 106" screen is just 100". So 115" gives you 30% more screen area. And having the screen filled by a black frame add perceived contrast.

Check at those screen comparisons below and give it a try on your wall for the 2.35:1 image

http://www.displaywars.com/106-inch-16x9-vs-100-inch-235x1

http://www.displaywars.com/106-inch-16x9-vs-115-inch-235x1

http://www.displaywars.com/100-inch-235x1-vs-115-inch-235x1


----------



## john barlow

inspector said:


> You need to do some research before you start spouting about filming aspect ratios.


 What he said makes sense to me because I've experienced the same thing when films are 16/9, my high end silver screen and the pitch black room combined allow me to enjoy that content while the empty parts of the screen are not or, barely visible and the illusion is I don't see the empty sides where there is no content. I use blanking when a film like Transformers keeps switching back and forth from Imax to cinemascope, where in Imax, the picture is outside of the entire screen assembly. I do not enjoy that at all, so I blank the top and bottom.


----------



## ayrton

jason_galaxy said:


> I have the UBE and if I had it to do over I probably wouldn't get it. No transmission issues and it will do 4K 60p HDR but it converts to 8bit. I don't game so I can't tell you if there is any lag time but I don't see any difference with video/audio sync compared to the wired input.
> 
> The biggest problem is format change sync time. Changing from a 720p to 1080i source (on directv for example) can take 20 seconds or so as opposed to just a couple wired.
> 
> There is also an issue with the audio out. I was having video banding issues when both audio and video was sent to the transmitter. After much back and forth with Support we found the problem went away when only video was sent to the wireless. So your idea is not recommended. Any complaints I had were met with "well we can't change the transmitter because we OEM it from another company."
> 
> Buy the UB and spend the difference on a good HDMI switch.


You can hard wire your UBE to HDMI 1 on the PJ and use the transmitter as a conversation Piece. Could also hard wire from your "TV Out" on the transmitter and use it as a HDMI switch.

I Love my UBE BTW


----------



## SALadder22FF

ed3120 said:


> Are you gaming with the PS4 at 4K HDR 60p 8 bit? If so, is that something you set in the PS4 or did the Epson automatically negotiate that?
> 
> I don?t have a PS4, but I do have an nVidia Shield and I would love there to be a way to push 4K HDR 60p from Youtube/Netflix/Amazon without having to put a Linker in between.
> 
> Do you notice lag issues when jumping between 720p and 1080i like Jason?





ed3120 said:


> I'm considering going with the wireless 5040UBE for the convenience of not running wires across my house.
> 
> Also, the wireless transmitter module seems to have an optical audio out that I can run to my non 4K receiver. I would run an HDMI from my Shield directly to that module and use the optical to get the audio to my receiver. The money saved on skipping a long, quality 4K HDR HDMI cable and an HDMI audio extractor box is close to the cost difference of the UBE.
> 
> Are there any downsides to the UBE? For anyone that has one, is the connection solid when using higher resolutions and HDR, or does it drop? I don't want to pay extra money for the wireless option, just to have it be unreliable and force me to wire everything up anyway.
> 
> Does the UBE solve any of the HDMI port bandwidth issues with 4K HDR 60p or is it the same story as the regular 5040UB?
> 
> Does the wireless transmission add any latency?


I have had the UBe since I bought mine about a year ago. The dropping of signal change is not bad when your switching sources because once your locked in, it stays. However, watching DirecTV is terrible. Every channel is 720p or 1080i or 4k and every switch is at least a 10 second switch. Very annoying. Also, if someone walks in front of the transmitter you'll have the same issue.

It's why I ran an hdmi cable after the fact to cut that changing time down.


----------



## carp

john barlow said:


> Yes, but, in a home cinema with controlled light often during viewing, all you see is the content on the screen. 90% of the films I view are of the wide screen and not the 16/9 TV viewing size. So, we don't really care that much if maybe one in ten or twenty films are 16/9. it's quite rare actually.





inspector said:


> You need to do some research before you start spouting about filming aspect ratios.



I think you need to re-read his post before you start spouting about him having to do some research. 

What research would he have to do? He was saying that 90% of the movies that HE watches are scope, he didn't say anything about the percentage of total movies ever made. 

I completely agree with him, it so rare for us to watch a movie that isn't 2:35:1 (usually 2:39:1 actually).


----------



## robc1976

achanonier said:


> HI There
> 
> Tried new firmware yesterday, indeed HDR1 is brighter on the mid ranges and HDR2 seems to crushes the whites realiers than previous HDR2.
> I dialed in somes pretty good settings using natural and HDR1.
> 
> However I can confirm that as SDR is unchanged it doesn't make any difference with Harpervision HDR on SDR setting... I d'ont know how peoples can see any difference if they are using this settings correctly...
> 
> An again for thoses claiming that they get better results using HDR1 on Harpervision instead of SDR, either there is something very wrong in your setup or you dialed in completely diffrent contrast and gamma settings so it's not Harpervision anymore. HDR setting with Harpervison is way out ot place and completely unwatchable which is meant to be that way as it has been made to be used with SDR range mapping on an HDR signal.


Agreed, HDR with Harper vision would look terrible.

I use oledurt with Auto (bright) has that changed? Seems a bit more vibrant on xbox

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Chris the Rock said:


> Personally, I've had the issue you're describing once or twice, seemingly out of the blue.
> 
> When it happened the last time, I noticed it when coming back from the 2.35:1 setting to the 1.78:1 setting. It was a off a good deal to the left. Since I leave my screen un-masked most of the time it didn't bother me, but when I went from there to the 2.35:1 position, it carried that shift forward and it was clearly wrong.
> 
> I cleared my presets and started over, and it's been pretty good since then. Sometimes I tweak it just a tad, but it's never really bad - and I'm pretty anal retentive about it being lined up on the edges.


Me also

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## ed3120

SALadder22FF said:


> I have had the UBe since I bought mine about a year ago. The dropping of signal change is not bad when your switching sources because once your locked in, it stays. However, watching DirecTV is terrible. Every channel is 720p or 1080i or 4k and every switch is at least a 10 second switch. Very annoying. Also, if someone walks in front of the transmitter you'll have the same issue.
> 
> It's why I ran an hdmi cable after the fact to cut that changing time down.


I don't do a lot of channel surfing...I more often just watch recorded shows, so I don't think the channel switching delay would be a concern for me.

Could you please tell me the dimension of the transmitter box? I can't seem to find them anywhere.

Also, are any modes or anything that is supported by a wired connection that is not supported by the wireless connection? 

This Crutchfield page says "The WirelessHD Transmitter's HDMI jacks do not support the latest HDCP 2.2 copyright protection for 4K ultra-HD content, so they will not support 4K content from satellite/cable providers, online video services, and Blu-ray disc which are copyright protected with HDCP 2.2."

That seems like it would be a problem.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-kFUtT1nJ1XB/p_2785040UBE/Epson-PowerLite-Home-Cinema-5040UBe.html


----------



## ed3120

This is from the manual. Does this mean that the 5040UBE transmitter cannot be used to transmit 4K at 60hz? (Or am I interpreting that wrong?)


----------



## rupedogg24

So, I used to be a Bright Cinema guy, that's until I updated to 1.11. I'm now on Digital Cinema for all my 4k content. It's much brighter than before. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## Snoogleheimer

rupedogg24 said:


> So, I used to be a Bright Cinema guy, that's until I updated to 1.11. I'm now on Digital Cinema for all my 4k content. It's much brighter than before.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Hmmm, I need to update mine.


----------



## rupedogg24

Snoogleheimer said:


> Hmmm, I need to update mine.


Do it. Made a big difference for me. I have an Integral between devices stripping the HDR but it wasn't as bright as it is now. The firmware made a difference. Lamp on eco as well. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

where is the firmware update,i couldn't find it on Epsons site thxs


----------



## djb61230

dholmes54 said:


> where is the firmware update,i couldn't find it on Epsons site thxs


Here:

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## dholmes54

thanks! Sorry to bother you I found it but where are the instructions? Im not a computer whiz!


----------



## viperlogic

dholmes54 said:


> thanks! Sorry to bother you I found it but where are the instructions? Im not a computer whiz!



Theres a PDF in the zip file with instructions


----------



## rgraylin

Are there release notes that state what was fixed or improved in 1.11?


----------



## marco1975

rgraylin said:


> Are there release notes that state what was fixed or improved in 1.11?


No release notes, i have installed the update and to be honest, personaly i can,t see any different....though some users had stated that there is some improvment in the picture qaulity in HDR. mode


----------



## john barlow

marco1975 said:


> No release notes, i have installed the update and to be honest, personaly i can,t see any different....though some users had stated that there is some improvment in the picture qaulity in HDR. mode


 I performed the most recent update the day after I performed the most recent Oppo 203 FW update. For me, it was a revalation of the prowess that the synergy between my components render an amazing image from my 5040, onto my Stewart screen. I'm just pleased as punch.


----------



## SALadder22FF

ed3120 said:


> This is from the manual. Does this mean that the 5040UBE transmitter cannot be used to transmit 4K at 60hz? (Or am I interpreting that wrong?)
> 
> View attachment 2331640


No I get plenty of 4k at 60fps through the wireless transmitter. Been having to use it the last week due to HDMI cable failure. 

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Brajesh

Hate the 3D quality on this PJ... bad ghosting . 5025UB, which I last had, was excellent. Thinking of jumping to BenQ HT2550 when it's out next month.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Brajesh said:


> Hate the 3D quality on this PJ... bad ghosting . 5025UB, which I last had, was excellent. Thinking of jumping to BenQ HT2550 when it's out next month.


Perhaps on YOUR 5040 projector, ghosting is pretty much nonexistent on mine even with glasses on High. This has been discussed before there seems to be some variance from projector to projector re: 3D ghosting.


----------



## Brajesh

Well, that isn't a good thing that there's variance between units. Doesn't speak well to quality control.


----------



## Bajuju

Hello AVS forum gurus,

Im new here. I am from Manila. I am about to take the plunge into the PJ bandwagon. My eyes are set on an Epson. I got a few questions and i hope you can shed light on them. I apologize for not reading back.

1. Just confirming...Is the EPSON 5040UB the same as the Epson EH-TW8300?

2. Is owning a dedicated 4K player ( Oppo 203 / Sony - UBP-X800) worth it and compatible with this projector? I understand that the Epson is has 4K enhancement. In my limited knowledge, I believe the 4K signal is downscaled to 1080p then enhanced to be projected as 4K. I would appreciate very much if you can explain the technology to me. I currently own a PS3 and PS4 ( not pro ) which i use as a bluray player.

Will wait for your expert opinion ladies and gentlemen. Merry Christmas!


----------



## carp

Well, looks like I'll most likely be moving on from the 5040. I found a deal too good to pass up on the JVC RS600. So, when it gets here I'm going to do a comparison to make sure before selling the 5040. Awesome projector, I have loved using it the past year and this thread has been great to help me get the most out of it.


----------



## marco1975

john barlow said:


> I performed the most recent update the day after I performed the most recent Oppo 203 FW update. For me, it was a revalation of the prowess that the synergy between my components render an amazing image from my 5040, onto my Stewart screen. I'm just pleased as punch.


Happy it's working out for u mate , enjoy your projector


----------



## djb61230

dholmes54 said:


> thanks! Sorry to bother you I found it but where are the instructions? Im not a computer whiz!


Sorry here are the instructions. They are "generic" in the sense it's for all epson projectors I think. I mean the diagram where the power cable and USB port are not exactly in the same location as the 5040ub. But you get the idea.

http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf


----------



## philipbtz

carp said:


> Well, looks like I'll most likely be moving on from the 5040. I found a deal too good to pass up on the JVC RS600. So, when it gets here I'm going to do a comparison to make sure before selling the 5040. Awesome projector, I have loved using it the past year and this thread has been great to help me get the most out of it.


Probably doing a similar move in the future. Will be following the thread to see your thoughts. Will be interesting to hear in which areas you find the most improvement. I'd be interested in knowing differences in sharpness and motion resolution. The contrast I'm pretty sure will be miles better.


----------



## dholmes54

thanks everyone! did I read it correctly you do this update with the power off?


----------



## Brian Zibricky

Juiced46 said:


> Can you fire up a 4K UHD movie and please post a screen shot of the projector info menu.


Here you go - thanks for checking this out!


----------



## roland6465

dholmes54 said:


> thanks everyone! did I read it correctly you do this update with the power off?


You pull the plug, insert the usb stick, hold down the power button on the unit, plug it back in while holding the button, and release when all the lights come on.


----------



## Chris the Rock

*Xbox One X -> Linker -> Epson 6040*

I'm late to the Linker party, but I finally got one this weekend and had the WORST time setting it up.

My system isn't complex: Xbox One goes to a Marantz 7702mkii processor, on to the Epson 6040. 

I connected the Linker to my PC, started with the latest firmware (v0.25 - I thought I read on here that whatever issues the firmware was having after v0.19a had been resolved), configured it according to the instructions back on page 386 of this discussion thread, and plugged it in to my system. All my cables are good for 18Gbps.

It was one failure after another. I first put it in to my system like this:
XBox One X > HDMI > AVP > HDMI > 6040.

This gave me a picture, but only on the dashboard. Any time I'd fire up a game, the screen would go black and never come back.

Then I put it in the system like this:
X1X > HDMI > AVP > HDMI > Linker > HDMI > 6040 

This never worked. Always a black screen.

So I downgraded the firmware back to v0.19a. Didn't help. I discovered I could get a picture if I slid the "scale" slider switch to the "downscale" position, but that resulted in the X1X not being able to be set to 4K resolution.

I set it aside for a couple hours and had an idea. After some thought, I realized that I am using an Active HDMI cable from my X1X (at the front of my room) running to the rest of the equipment at the back of the room. Active HDMI cables are directional, so the Source and Display ends of the cable are marked. This means that in Scenario 1, I'd been using the "Display" end of the HDMI cable as input into the Linker, before passing it on to my AVP.

I changed things around, and put the linker between the X1X and the AVP, except I inserted it "before" the Active HDMI cable, this time using the "Source" end of the cable as the Linker's output, letting the Linker do it's job before sending the the signal on, like this:
X1X > HDMI > Linker > Active HDMI > AVP > HDMI > 6040

This worked, except I had picture but no sound, despite having it configured properly. After resetting the Linker back to factory specs, turning everything off and on again, and reconfiguring the linker properly and still no sound, I thought that maybe upgrading back to v0.25 FW would help.

It didn't. This time I get neither picture nor sound. During all these tests, I've been using a PC as the USB power source, reading the data from the Linker in the Linker GUI software. After the upgrade to v.025, the GUI didn't even see the Linker at all.

So I went back to v0.19a again, reconfigured it, and for whatever reason -- I swear I changed nothing else -- it worked.

Very frustrating to not understand why I had so many issues. On a positive note, it works as expected. 4K/60/HDR/12bit in, 4K/60/HDR/8bit out, and the Atmos bitstream comes through just fine. No banding that I could see in the limited tests I did. I only tried games, no apps. It does take a few seconds to sync when moving between HDR-enabled games and the dashboard.

I just hope the thing continues to work. I'll find out today when I fire it up after work.

Any other Linker users encounter issues when you set yours up, or am I just special?


----------



## john barlow

Brajesh said:


> Hate the 3D quality on this PJ... bad ghosting . 5025UB, which I last had, was excellent. Thinking of jumping to BenQ HT2550 when it's out next month.


 You haven't experienced the good quality that can be had with this PJ. Operator error is common with new equipment. I had to purchase a couple different types of glasses from Amazon before I was able to achieve stable 
3D viewing regardless of film. There are some films that just don't look good in 3D. Out of the 140 3D discs I've acquired over the last eighteen months, I'd venture to say about 95% of them are amazing. Synergy is what HT is all about. AVS Forum will guide you there. What Glasses have you tried? Which player are you using? Benq ? I wouldn't.


----------



## ed3120

john barlow said:


> You haven't experienced the good quality that can be had with this PJ. Operator error is common with new equipment. I had to purchase a couple different types of glasses from Amazon before I was able to achieve stable
> 3D viewing regardless of film. There are some films that just don't look good in 3D. Out of the 140 3D discs I've acquired over the last eighteen months, I'd venture to say about 95% of them are amazing. Synergy is what HT is all about. AVS Forum will guide you there. What Glasses have you tried? Which player are you using? Benq ? I wouldn't.


Can you list out which glasses worked well for you and which not so well?


----------



## inspector

Brajesh said:


> Hate the 3D quality on this PJ... bad ghosting . 5025UB, which I last had, was excellent. Thinking of jumping to BenQ HT2550 when it's out next month.



Hey Brajesh,


Please visit the thread I started about ghosting/crosstalk. Courtney should be able to help you at Epson.


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...on-5040-6040-3d-ghosting-crosstalk-issue.html


Good luck!


John


----------



## john barlow

ed3120 said:


> Can you list out which glasses worked well for you and which not so well?


 The better half likes the Samsung RF glasses. I prefer the view I get from the valueview glasses except I must warn folks, the folding arms are very flimsy and have broken easily from careful use. Well, that's actually false. I did sit on the first pair because of the darkness when I re entered the room, I crunched them. My other pair, I didn't do anything out of the ordinary and one day, I went to put them on, and when I opened them up, one arm broke right off with very little effort. I hate returning stuff to Amazon, but I do give them credit for making it as easy as they can.


----------



## gene4ht

ed3120 said:


> Can you list out which glasses worked well for you and which not so well?





john barlow said:


> *I prefer the view I get from the valueview glasses* except I must warn folks, the folding arms are very flimsy and have broken easily from careful use. Well, that's actually false. I did sit on the first pair because...


I'll second John's choice...the "valueview" glasses. I have six pair and have never invited John over...so they are all fine. You may want to visit the 3D thread as there are several threads there addressing 3D glasses. A good start is this one...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html


----------



## old corps

john barlow said:


> The better half likes the Samsung RF glasses. I prefer the view I get from the valueview glasses except I must warn folks, the folding arms are very flimsy and have broken easily from careful use. Well, that's actually false. I did sit on the first pair because of the darkness when I re entered the room, I crunched them. My other pair, I didn't do anything out of the ordinary and one day, I went to put them on, and when I opened them up, one arm broke right off with very little effort. I hate returning stuff to Amazon, but I do give them credit for making it as easy as they can.


I'm using the Panasonic TY-ER3D4MU glasses. Lightweight and maintain a charge for a long time. Maybe I'm just lucky but I sampled three 3D movies so far and although looking for it I haven't detected any ghosting/crosstalk. Same glasses I used with my 5030, just needed to pair them to the 5040.

Ed

Btw, Sony X800 through Onkyo RZ710.


----------



## ayrton

john barlow said:


> I performed the most recent update the day after I performed the most recent Oppo 203 FW update. For me, it was a revalation of the prowess that the synergy between my components render an amazing image from my 5040, onto my Stewart screen. I'm just pleased as punch.


Got the same hardware including Stewart screen and got the same results.. (Thanks Craig Peer)

BTW: My 3D is excellent as well using Epson glasses..


----------



## Scott Dunlop

Hi !

New 6040 owner here... I feel really stupid asking this set of questions after reading and re-reading the manual.

My setup - 2.40 screen with a 6040ub - NVidia Shield and Sat box.

Had it professionally installed and returned today to try out the new gear....

Even using Kodi 2.40 Source Materials won't fill the new screen.

On the Epson remote hitting aspect ratio and trying all options, none fill the screen.

I feel like I must be missing something really simply... so, go easy... but, please help... even materials not designed for 2.40 screen I at least want to fill the screen (menus etc).

Shouldn't I be able to "fill the screen" with Standard 16x9 tv content?

Thanks so much!
Scott


----------



## drhankz

Scott Dunlop said:


> Hi !
> 
> New 6040 owner here... I feel really stupid asking this set of questions after reading and re-reading the manual.
> 
> My setup - 2.40 screen with a 6040ub - NVidia Shield and Sat box.
> 
> Had it professionally installed and returned today to try out the new gear....
> 
> Even using Kodi 2.40 Source Materials won't fill the new screen.
> 
> On the Epson remote hitting aspect ratio and trying all options, none fill the screen.
> 
> I feel like I must be missing something really simply... so, go easy... but, please help... even materials not designed for 2.40 screen I at least want to fill the screen (menus etc).
> 
> Shouldn't I be able to "fill the screen" with Standard 16x9 tv content?
> 
> Thanks so much!
> Scott


When your screen is 2:40 - that is NOT 16x9


----------



## Dominic Chan

Scott Dunlop said:


> Hi !
> Shouldn't I be able to "fill the screen" with Standard 16x9 tv content?


Can you post a picture of what it looks like?


----------



## Brajesh

Thanks @inspector, I'll look at the thread you linked.

No "operator error" at my end @john barlow. I've reviewed a/v gear for years and used PJ's for over 15 years. The 3D glasses I'm using are the same ones I used with 5025UB (these and these).


----------



## JL23

Hi guys,

I recently purchased this projector and had a question about updating the firmware. I followed Epson's instructions and put the firmware file in a USB and did the procedure to put it into update mode; that didn't work. I also read somewhere that doesnt' work and you have to use a computer and drag and drop the file but my laptop couldn't install a driver for the projector. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

JL


----------



## john barlow

JL23 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I recently purchased this projector and had a question about updating the firmware. I followed Epson's instructions and put the firmware file in a USB and did the procedure to put it into update mode; that didn't work. I also read somewhere that doesnt' work and you have to use a computer and drag and drop the file but my laptop couldn't install a driver for the projector. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> JL


 Make sure your USB thumb drive is formatted for Fat32


----------



## carp

philipbtz said:


> Probably doing a similar move in the future. Will be following the thread to see your thoughts. Will be interesting to hear in which areas you find the most improvement. I'd be interested in knowing differences in sharpness and motion resolution. The contrast I'm pretty sure will be miles better.


The thing is that a year ago I had a chance to compare my new 5040 with a rs500. At the time the better blacks of the JVC wasn't enough to make me want to switch. Yes the contrast was better but not enough to justify the cost of the projector and the cost of replacement bulbs and I felt like the 5040 was sharper. This time around I found a deal to good to pass up so I'm trying again. I know the rs500 and rs600 are basically the same, with the rs600 getting the hand picked best parts, but other than that they should be very close to each other so we'll see.


----------



## Azekecse

Chris the Rock said:


> I'm late to the Linker party, but I finally got one this weekend and had the WORST time setting it up.
> 
> My system isn't complex: Xbox One goes to a Marantz 7702mkii processor, on to the Epson 6040.
> 
> I connected the Linker to my PC, started with the latest firmware (v0.25 - I thought I read on here that whatever issues the firmware was having after v0.19a had been resolved), configured it according to the instructions back on page 386 of this discussion thread, and plugged it in to my system. All my cables are good for 18Gbps.
> 
> It was one failure after another. I first put it in to my system like this:
> XBox One X > HDMI > AVP > HDMI > 6040.
> 
> This gave me a picture, but only on the dashboard. Any time I'd fire up a game, the screen would go black and never come back.
> 
> Then I put it in the system like this:
> X1X > HDMI > AVP > HDMI > Linker > HDMI > 6040
> 
> This never worked. Always a black screen.
> 
> So I downgraded the firmware back to v0.19a. Didn't help. I discovered I could get a picture if I slid the "scale" slider switch to the "downscale" position, but that resulted in the X1X not being able to be set to 4K resolution.
> 
> I set it aside for a couple hours and had an idea. After some thought, I realized that I am using an Active HDMI cable from my X1X (at the front of my room) running to the rest of the equipment at the back of the room. Active HDMI cables are directional, so the Source and Display ends of the cable are marked. This means that in Scenario 1, I'd been using the "Display" end of the HDMI cable as input into the Linker, before passing it on to my AVP.
> 
> I changed things around, and put the linker between the X1X and the AVP, except I inserted it "before" the Active HDMI cable, this time using the "Source" end of the cable as the Linker's output, letting the Linker do it's job before sending the the signal on, like this:
> X1X > HDMI > Linker > Active HDMI > AVP > HDMI > 6040
> 
> This worked, except I had picture but no sound, despite having it configured properly. After resetting the Linker back to factory specs, turning everything off and on again, and reconfiguring the linker properly and still no sound, I thought that maybe upgrading back to v0.25 FW would help.
> 
> It didn't. This time I get neither picture nor sound. During all these tests, I've been using a PC as the USB power source, reading the data from the Linker in the Linker GUI software. After the upgrade to v.025, the GUI didn't even see the Linker at all.
> 
> So I went back to v0.19a again, reconfigured it, and for whatever reason -- I swear I changed nothing else -- it worked.
> 
> Very frustrating to not understand why I had so many issues. On a positive note, it works as expected. 4K/60/HDR/12bit in, 4K/60/HDR/8bit out, and the Atmos bitstream comes through just fine. No banding that I could see in the limited tests I did. I only tried games, no apps. It does take a few seconds to sync when moving between HDR-enabled games and the dashboard.
> 
> I just hope the thing continues to work. I'll find out today when I fire it up after work.
> 
> Any other Linker users encounter issues when you set yours up, or am I just special?


Yes, I feel you pain...I experienced relative issues. I will try to revert to f/w 19a...I cannot get HDR with f/w 25 on the X1X, however I could with 19a. I am using a Marantz 7011, Epson 6040, with the HD Linker in between the A/v receiver and the Epson 6040. All other peripherals work, i.e. Nvidia Shield, Opponents 203, Apple4K TV. I could just link it directly to the X1X to determine resolution. Anyone with the Linker 25 f/w upgrader have any thoughts??? Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas to everyone and their families.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## JL23

john barlow said:


> Make sure your USB thumb drive is formatted for Fat32


Thank you so much, that finally worked. I was formatting under exfat because Epson didn't specify. Appreciate the help.

JL


----------



## dholmes54

roland6465 said:


> You pull the plug, insert the usb stick, hold down the power button on the unit, plug it back in while holding the button, and release when all the lights come on.


 thanks,i hate doing updates,i had a Blu-ray player lock up yrs ago doing a update


----------



## roland6465

dholmes54 said:


> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You pull the plug, insert the usb stick, hold down the power button on the unit, plug it back in while holding the button, and release when all the lights come on.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks,i hate doing updates,i had a Blu-ray player lock up yrs ago doing a update
Click to expand...

Yeah, I hate these usb updates. My 6040 only likes brand new sticks to update. I reformatted 2 others twice this time around before I had to open a new one, and it took the first time.


----------



## ntnh

NetViper said:


> Installed 1.11. Here are some shots of gears of War in dynamic and hdr2 with the linker. I think it looks amazing. No banding in game play.


Nice screenshots. What settings did you use? Can you share your settings since I can't get that picture quality like that on my 5040UB with 1.11.

Thanks,


----------



## Scott Dunlop

Dominic Chan said:


> Can you post a picture of what it looks like?


Pictures coming soon... will post some additional questions I have. I have "saved" Lens Memory when playing movies in Kodi - 16x9 and 2.40 movies both start in Kodi with bars on all 4 sides... which doesn't make sense.

Satellite Box is showing as I expected - constant height with bars on the two sides.

--
For the Shield, it's upgraded to latest FW - What is the optimal Resolution to work with Epson 6040:

My options are 

1080p 59.940
4k 30 hz
4k 23.976

In the Kodi app - System:

Resolution shows as 3840x2160
Refresh rate is 30.00

Whether I play a standard 1:78 or 2:40 movie in Kodi, I must always now use the Lens Zoom

Questions:

1. What is the optimal setting for Shield?
2. What is optimal for Kodi?

When I select on Aspect on Epson - Anamorphic Wide - should it not fill the screen for a 2.40 movie automatically?

Thanks... just moving pics from phone to compute to Post.
Scott


----------



## Scott Dunlop

Scott Dunlop said:


> Pictures coming soon... will post some additional questions I have. I have "saved" Lens Memory when playing movies in Kodi - 16x9 and 2.40 movies both start in Kodi with bars on all 4 sides... which doesn't make sense.
> 
> Satellite Box is showing as I expected - constant height with bars on the two sides.
> 
> --
> For the Shield, it's upgraded to latest FW - What is the optimal Resolution to work with Epson 6040:
> 
> My options are
> 
> 1080p 59.940
> 4k 30 hz
> 4k 23.976
> 
> In the Kodi app - System:
> 
> Resolution shows as 3840x2160
> Refresh rate is 30.00
> 
> Whether I play a standard 1:78 or 2:40 movie in Kodi, I must always now use the Lens Zoom
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1. What is the optimal setting for Shield?
> 2. What is optimal for Kodi?
> 
> When I select on Aspect on Epson - Anamorphic Wide - should it not fill the screen for a 2.40 movie automatically?
> 
> Thanks... just moving pics from phone to compute to Post.
> Scott


Also noticed 4k enhancement is greyed out... 

Picture 1 is using the zoom lens to 'fill' the 2.40 screen with a 2.40 picture! When I do that the Kodi menus bleed off the screen....

Without using the zoom lens to fill my screen - both 16x9 and scope movies need me to use the zoom and adjust features of the lens to fill the screen.

16x9 movies have black bars on TOP/BOTTOM and sides through Kodi.

----

Definitely a bit frustrated.... any help is appreciated.

Is this a projector, shield or Kodi issue?

Note I have updated FW to 1.11 and latest Kodi and Shield OS too.

Thanks - Scott


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Anyone knows what the latest firmware 1.11 brings ? any news from Epson ?
Is it ok to upgrade European tw9300 (5040ub equivalent) with this firmware ? on the EU site there is still 1.09 listed as the last one....they are two releases behind...


----------



## Lesmor

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Anyone knows what the latest firmware 1.11 brings ? any news from Epson ?
> Is it ok to upgrade European tw9300 (5040ub equivalent) with this firmware ? on the EU site there is still 1.09 listed as the last one....they are two releases behind...


The european/UK website does have 1.11 firmware but it is easy to miss it


----------



## wizzy

Scott Dunlop said:


> On the Epson remote hitting aspect ratio and trying all options, none fill the screen.
> 
> I feel like I must be missing something really simply... so, go easy... but, please help... even materials not designed for 2.40 screen I at least want to fill the screen (menus etc).


Having gone through setup myself this past week, you'll want to play with zoom and lens shift (click the lens button twice and three times). Save the 2.40x1 into one memory slot, and then do the same thing with 16:9 source and save it in a second memory slot (use the memory button to save/recall, or use lens1 and lens2 to recall if you used those slots).

Do follow this guidance when setting up your lens shift.


----------



## amarkow

ntnh said:


> Nice screenshots. What settings did you use? Can you share your settings since I can't get that picture quality like that on my 5040UB with 1.11.
> 
> Thanks,


Two issues I've run into while updating my 5040 via thumb drive. 1. You must not have any other update on the drive; and 2. you have to be sure you have loaded the unzipped version of the update. If not, the update will not "take", in my experience.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Scott Dunlop said:


> Also noticed 4k enhancement is greyed out...


4k enhancement is greyed out when the input is 4k.



> Picture 1 is using the zoom lens to 'fill' the 2.40 screen with a 2.40 picture! When I do that the Kodi menus bleed off the screen....


As wizzy explained in the post above, you need to save two memory settings (let's call them "large" and "small", to fit the heights of 2.40:1 and 16:9 movies respectively).
Since the Kodi UI (menus) has a 16:9 aspect ratio, you need to use the "small" lens memory when in the UI, which will also allow 16:9 movies to play in full height. When you watch 2.40:1 movies, you have to switch back to the "large" lens memory.
Some time ago I came across a Kodi "Skin" designed for 2.40:1 screens, so you may prefer that if your movies are mostly 2.40:1 (no need to change the lens memory between the UI and the 2.40:1 movies), but of course you will still need to switch when watching 16:9.


----------



## nickoakdl

I think I just updated my firmware and it's showing:

Version:
Main - 7Y0076648UWWV111
Video2 - 7YL28RMV111

Is that the updated version?


----------



## stupot1971

nickoakdl said:


> I think I just updated my firmware and it's showing:
> 
> Version:
> Main - 7Y0076648UWWV111
> Video2 - 7YL28RMV111
> 
> Is that the updated version?


Yes

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Lesmor said:


> The european/UK website does have 1.11 firmware but it is easy to miss it


Yes, now when you said this I checked and it's hidden indeed. New SW loaded and good to go.
Still no clue what they have changed in the latest release though... 

by the way two HDR pictures I can share when you combine Epson with Oppo


----------



## rupedogg24

Brajesh said:


> Hate the 3D quality on this PJ... bad ghosting . 5025UB, which I last had, was excellent. Thinking of jumping to BenQ HT2550 when it's out next month.


The 1.10 firmware fixed my ghosting issue. 1.11 is out now if you haven't updated. Issue also seems to vary from projector to projector. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## mase1981

Chris the Rock said:


> I'm late to the Linker party, but I finally got one this weekend and had the WORST time setting it up.
> 
> My system isn't complex: Xbox One goes to a Marantz 7702mkii processor, on to the Epson 6040.
> 
> I connected the Linker to my PC, started with the latest firmware (v0.25 - I thought I read on here that whatever issues the firmware was having after v0.19a had been resolved), configured it according to the instructions back on page 386 of this discussion thread, and plugged it in to my system. All my cables are good for 18Gbps.
> 
> It was one failure after another. I first put it in to my system like this:
> XBox One X > HDMI > AVP > HDMI > 6040.
> 
> This gave me a picture, but only on the dashboard. Any time I'd fire up a game, the screen would go black and never come back.
> 
> Then I put it in the system like this:
> X1X > HDMI > AVP > HDMI > Linker > HDMI > 6040
> 
> This never worked. Always a black screen.
> 
> So I downgraded the firmware back to v0.19a. Didn't help. I discovered I could get a picture if I slid the "scale" slider switch to the "downscale" position, but that resulted in the X1X not being able to be set to 4K resolution.
> 
> I set it aside for a couple hours and had an idea. After some thought, I realized that I am using an Active HDMI cable from my X1X (at the front of my room) running to the rest of the equipment at the back of the room. Active HDMI cables are directional, so the Source and Display ends of the cable are marked. This means that in Scenario 1, I'd been using the "Display" end of the HDMI cable as input into the Linker, before passing it on to my AVP.
> 
> I changed things around, and put the linker between the X1X and the AVP, except I inserted it "before" the Active HDMI cable, this time using the "Source" end of the cable as the Linker's output, letting the Linker do it's job before sending the the signal on, like this:
> X1X > HDMI > Linker > Active HDMI > AVP > HDMI > 6040
> 
> This worked, except I had picture but no sound, despite having it configured properly. After resetting the Linker back to factory specs, turning everything off and on again, and reconfiguring the linker properly and still no sound, I thought that maybe upgrading back to v0.25 FW would help.
> 
> It didn't. This time I get neither picture nor sound. During all these tests, I've been using a PC as the USB power source, reading the data from the Linker in the Linker GUI software. After the upgrade to v.025, the GUI didn't even see the Linker at all.
> 
> So I went back to v0.19a again, reconfigured it, and for whatever reason -- I swear I changed nothing else -- it worked.
> 
> Very frustrating to not understand why I had so many issues. On a positive note, it works as expected. 4K/60/HDR/12bit in, 4K/60/HDR/8bit out, and the Atmos bitstream comes through just fine. No banding that I could see in the limited tests I did. I only tried games, no apps. It does take a few seconds to sync when moving between HDR-enabled games and the dashboard.
> 
> I just hope the thing continues to work. I'll find out today when I fire it up after work.
> 
> Any other Linker users encounter issues when you set yours up, or am I just special?


Check my sig.
remember after each firmware upgrade to reset the linker and re do the config.


----------



## Chris the Rock

mase1981 said:


> Check my sig.
> remember after each firmware upgrade to reset the linker and re do the config.


I appreciate that you have taken time to answer. In fact, I owe you thanks for that info in your signature - because it's how I got the Linker configured in the first place, and it was the reason I knew I had it right to begin with. It was because I had confidence that the configuration was correct that I knew that some issues I was having (due to the directional Active HDMI cable from my Xbox to my AVR) must be the culprit in my setup, not the configuration of the Linker. It was quite frustrating to know that it was set up right and still didn't work.

But presently, I've got everything working, albeit on FW 0.19 - which works with the exception of some audio dropouts, which happen more in Atmos. This is puzzling to me because according to HD Fury, Atmos isn't supposed to work until v0.25. Perhaps I could have given it one more try, but I didn't want to do anything to mess it up after I finally got it to work.

It's for that reason I've decided I'm going to send it back for a refund. And also because I'm planning to sell my 6040 after the New Year (to a good friend), and he's not a gamer and won't need it. 

I'm pretty sure that with another hour of tinkering I could get it to work, but when this opportunity to sell my 6040 came up recently, it's no longer necessary.

For what it's worth, the HDR in Gears 4, Assassin's Creed Origins, and Shadow of Mordor is quite good with the Linker in place. That's all I've gotten to try so far. I'll be keeping the Linker for another week or so, shipping it back to Monoprice after the new year.


----------



## Chris the Rock

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Still no clue what they have changed in the latest release though...


According to this update at Projector Central, they make mention of the FW Update for the HC4000 Projector, which is a close sibling of the 5040/6040. For what it's worth, they say: "Epson just released a firmware update on the Home Cinema 4000 which significantly increases the brightness of HDR in some calibration options. We have received the update and loaded it. However, we have not yet been able to exercise it in detail and determine all of its effects. For those who have the HC 4000, you can download the firmware update from Epson and transfer it to your projector via a USB thumb drive."


http://www.projectorcentral.com/projector-news.cfm?entry_id=738&em


----------



## rupedogg24

Chris the Rock said:


> According to this update at Projector Central, they make mention of the FW Update for the HC4000 Projector, which is a close sibling of the 5040/6040. For what it's worth, they say: "Epson just released a firmware update on the Home Cinema 4000 which significantly increases the brightness of HDR in some calibration options. We have received the update and loaded it. However, we have not yet been able to exercise it in detail and determine all of its effects. For those who have the HC 4000, you can download the firmware update from Epson and transfer it to your projector via a USB thumb drive."
> 
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/projector-news.cfm?entry_id=738&em


My HDR picture is much brighter. Digital Cinema is now the very best option for me even with the lamp on eco. HDTV is brighter as well. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris the Rock

rupedogg24 said:


> My HDR picture is much brighter. Digital Cinema is now the very best option for me even with the lamp on eco. HDTV is brighter as well.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Good to know. I've used Bright Cinema settings for a while. I was very satisfied with brightness of Kingsman: Secret Service at 152" (2.35:1 screen) on medium lamp, but I never watched it before so I don't have any memory of what it looked like before the upgrade. 

Maybe tonight I'll try Digital Cinema, in case the FW update helps even more in that mode. If so, this could be the FW update I've [we've] hoped for all along. I'm looking forward to hearing real, professionally researched and tested results of what 1.11 actually did.


----------



## marco1975

Chris the Rock said:


> Good to know. I've used Bright Cinema settings for a while. I was very satisfied with brightness of Kingsman: Secret Service at 152" (2.35:1 screen) on medium lamp, but I never watched it before so I don't have any memory of what it looked like before the upgrade.
> 
> Maybe tonight I'll try Digital Cinema, in case the FW update helps even more in that mode. If so, this could be the FW update I've [we've] hoped for all along. I'm looking forward to hearing real, professionally researched and tested results of what 1.11 actually did.


Personally i coudn,t see any different in the picture qaulity/HDR. brightness after the new 1.11 update.
I use Digital cinema mode for HDR. content, and for me it's the best one, it favor color accuracy/black level , but it would be at the expense of giving up some luminance, so if brightness is your thing, i don,t think u will like it.


----------



## viperlogic

re 1.11 firmware, I did a sweep with my meter before and after upgrading from 1.09 to 1.11 which shows the increased brightness from a different tone mapping which has raised the diffuse white point but results now with less room for spectral highlights. Also note, peak brightness reduced.

See here for graph http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...pson-5040-6040-projectors-7.html#post55313526


----------



## robc1976

fritz11 said:


> Hi!
> I dont use the Linker, but the Vertex.
> I have diffrent Settings for SDR,Uhd and HDR on the 6040.
> But if i save them the main Settings are saved but
> The HDMI-HDR Settings not.
> So everytime i Switch between the Settings i must
> correct the HDR autosettings.
> Have someone the same Problem?
> About 4k/Hdr with the XboxX!
> My personal Settings
> are i dont like 4k/Hdr 8Bit on the epson and the XBX!
> A better Picture is to get 1080p/Hdr 12 Bit.
> No Bendings and the Colours ar WOW!!
> Cu and Thanks,Fritz


I may get the 1080P 12 but HDR but it will have to be unreal as I have HDR 8 bit with oledurt settings dialed in. Iam also getting the stewart cima neve to replace my silver ticket.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## ANDYK48

Hello everyone,
I got my new EPSON EH-TW9300W (5040Ube) projector about a month ago.
I have recently found about the Dave Harper's setting for the projector and I thin they are fantastic.
I would like to ask Dave whether there is a way to use these settings with Natural mode instead of Digital Cinema mode and still getting the advantage of HDR and WCG without having the filter between the light path.
Thanks a lot.


----------



## escapist

Thank you for all suggestions, found the settings very helpful.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ANDYK48 said:


> I would like to ask Dave whether there is a way to use these settings with Natural mode instead of Digital Cinema mode and still getting the advantage of HDR and WCG without having the filter between the light path.


I've been using Bright Cinema mode which has a wider gamut than Natural. Not as wide as Digital Cinema mode, but much brighter.


----------



## Seawater

Brajesh said:


> Hate the 3D quality on this PJ... bad ghosting . 5025UB, which I last had, was excellent. Thinking of jumping to BenQ HT2550 when it's out next month.


I agree 100%. The 3D was superior on the 5020. The 3D on the 5040 is terrible.


----------



## Seawater

*3D is terrible on 5040*

I upgraded to the 5040 from the 5020. Love the 4k interpolation but does anyone why the 3D is so much worse on the 5040 UB? Sometimes I have regrets about selling the 5020 because the 3D was so good.


----------



## Brajesh

Just re-tested 3D w/latest v.1.11 firmware and no change. Awful ghosting remains. I'm not going to bother trying to get a replacement unit from Epson... selling this in January & getting BenQ HT2550. Anyone want a 5040UB with only about 120 hours on it? Shame as the 4K enhancement on this PJ is quite impressive.


----------



## inspector

Brajesh said:


> Just re-tested 3D w/latest v.1.11 firmware and no change. Awful ghosting remains. I'm not going to bother trying to get a replacement unit from Epson... selling this in January & getting BenQ HT2550. Anyone want a 5040UB with only about 120 hours on it? Shame as the 4K enhancement on this PJ is quite impressive.


Did you ever contact Courtney @ Epson? I was one of the first to complain of the ghosting and received a brand new 6040 projector, but only the projector.


It works flawlessly for 3D and it seems that my colors are more vibrant since I went to 1.11, or maybe it's my imagination.


----------



## Brajesh

Thanks for the link to the thread and contact for Courtney @ Epson. I looked at the thread, but looks like he needs quite a bit of info (3D source(s), 3D movie(s), scene(s), etc.) to consider each case. Don't have time for the effort. Also, I use non-traditional sources: an Intel PC using a Kodi 3D MVC build, and a Zidoo X9S, not standard 3D Blu-ray players.

I've had an Epson 5025UB and BenQ HT2050, which both easily best 3D experience I'm having with my 5040UB unit. It's easier for me to eBay the 5040UB and just buy the upcoming BenQ HT2550... which is sounding better and better the more I read about it.


----------



## NetViper

ntnh said:


> Nice screenshots. What settings did you use? Can you share your settings since I can't get that picture quality like that on my 5040UB with 1.11.
> 
> Thanks,


I think it was just on dynamic and hdr 2. It really looks amazing in person.


----------



## Lithium

Brajesh said:


> Just re-tested 3D w/latest v.1.11 firmware and no change. Awful ghosting remains. I'm not going to bother trying to get a replacement unit from Epson... selling this in January & getting BenQ HT2550. Anyone want a 5040UB with only about 120 hours on it? Shame as the 4K enhancement on this PJ is quite impressive.


Maybe let Dave Harper borrow it for a little bit so he can get us RGBCMY settings for SDR mode.


----------



## ANDYK48

Dominic Chan said:


> I've been using Bright Cinema mode which has a wider gamut than Natural. Not as wide as Digital Cinema mode, but much brighter.



Thanks Dominic for the answer.
Can you also please post the Harpervision gamma settings you are using ? I would like to verify them with mine.
One more thing, does the Bright Cinema mode engage the filter ? 
Thanks again,
Andreas


----------



## robc1976

ANDYK48 said:


> Thanks Dominic for the answer.
> Can you also please post the Harpervision gamma settings you are using ? I would like to verify them with mine.
> One more thing, does the Bright Cinema mode engage the filter ?
> Thanks again,
> Andreas


Digital cinema is only mode with P3 filter

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

ANDYK48 said:


> Thanks Dominic for the answer.
> Can you also please post the Harpervision gamma settings you are using ? I would like to verify them with mine.
> One more thing, does the Bright Cinema mode engage the filter ?


I wasn’t using Harpervision. My previous reply was focusing on the use of Bright Cinema rather than Natural or Digital Cinema, as a better balance between gamut and brightness.

I was using my own curve, created using HCFR as described in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html


----------



## john barlow

Seawater said:


> I upgraded to the 5040 from the 5020. Love the 4k interpolation but does anyone why the 3D is so much worse on the 5040 UB? Sometimes I have regrets about selling the 5020 because the 3D was so good.


 I've been seeing quite a few of these posts about poor 3D picture quality issues from some of our members. It's utterly confusing to me why this dilemma is only affecting some owners and not others. I know that the glasses chosen to view 3D does make a huge difference. I like to have eight pair handy and I'm not paying another $800. for them. I like valueview for the extra brightness. Also, the setting used have made a difference as well. Epson could have avoided this by providing a couple pair of their 3D glasses. The one hundred dollar tag is uncalled for. Once I chose stable active glasses that provide a good synergy between projector and glasses getting advice here and tweaking the settings accordingly, I've not revisited poor 3d playback. Lucky me.


----------



## john barlow

Brajesh said:


> Thanks for the link to the thread and contact for Courtney @ Epson. I looked at the thread, but looks like he needs quite a bit of info (3D source(s), 3D movie(s), scene(s), etc.) to consider each case. Don't have time for the effort. Also, I use non-traditional sources: an Intel PC using a Kodi 3D MVC build, and a Zidoo X9S, not standard 3D Blu-ray players.
> 
> I've had an Epson 5025UB and BenQ HT2050, which both easily best 3D experience I'm having with my 5040UB unit. It's easier for me to eBay the 5040UB and just buy the upcoming BenQ HT2550... which is sounding better and better the more I read about it.


 Let me see if I'm hearing you correctly. You say you don't have time to put forth the effort to learn how to use your expensive projector. I'm guessing the 3D films you try to enjoy are about 2 hours long on average. Put aside viewing time to address your issue. Epson's not going to do that for you. Use a little initiative.


----------



## Brajesh

I know how to use it. The effort is in the process of dealing w/Epson to exchange the unit for another that works like it's supposed to.


----------



## exm

Successfully updated my 6040UB from 1.04 to 1.11. Are there any menu options added since 1.04 that I need to check?


----------



## roland6465

It?s a sad day. After less than 700 hours, and working perfectly last night, my 6040 is dead as a door nail. Tried switching and testing my outlets, starting it in update mode, nothing. 

And since it?s Christmas, the replacement may not come until Tuesday or Wednesday. Sigh.


----------



## talon95

Can someone summarize the current state of viewing 4k HDR streaming sources from Netflix and Amazon with the 5040UB?? Is this working with players that can output 24hz properly like the Roku Premier+ that does auto frame rate switching??

Also, what is the maximum frame rate that the 10mbit connection can handle for 4k HDR?? 30hz? Wondering if Amazon's The Grand Tour will work since it's 25hz...

Thanks.


----------



## LumensLover

roland6465 said:


> It?s a sad day. After less than 700 hours, and working perfectly last night, my 6040 is dead as a door nail. Tried switching and testing my outlets, starting it in update mode, nothing.
> 
> And since it?s Christmas, the replacement may not come until Tuesday or Wednesday. Sigh.


Epson's quality control is dog feces. However people continuously give them a pass here because they're quick to ship replacement units. But what good is that when no one knows how long any of the units will last? Especially since Epson is sending out refurb units as replacements for people who paid money for a new projector.


----------



## Lithium

talon95 said:


> Can someone summarize the current state of viewing 4k HDR streaming sources from Netflix and Amazon with the 5040UB?? Is this working with players that can output 24hz properly like the Roku Premier+ that does auto frame rate switching??
> 
> Also, what is the maximum frame rate that the 10mbit connection can handle for 4k HDR?? 30hz? Wondering if Amazon's The Grand Tour will work since it's 25hz...
> 
> Thanks.


I can't speak to the Roku, yet. I may get one for Christmas, but I don't think HDR streams will work with the Epson.

Fortunately, I can speak to the Samsung UBD-K8500 which is compatible with the Epson hdmi bandwidth requirements and streams Netflix and Amazon at 24fps 4k HDR. It is recommended to have at least a 25Mbps or faster connection to the internet. However, in practice, HDR streams are typically a bit under 20Mbps.

If you go this route I detailed the full player settings you need here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-355.html#post54870898


----------



## roland6465

LumensLover said:


> Epson's quality control is dog feces. However people continuously give them a pass here because they're quick to ship replacement units. But what good is that when no one knows how long any of the units will last? Especially since Epson is sending out refurb units as replacements for people who paid money for a new projector.


Yeah, at the time I bought it, my 1080p worry-free Epson had died, we were moving, and my dealer misquoted the price of the 6040 in writing, so I felt good going into it. Seeing all the stories on here are a little jarring, but I'm putting my faith in the process now. Bad thing is that I haven't a backup of my settings. I took Oledurt's and tweaked to my eye. Bowl Season is just gearing up, and my NCSU Wolfpack play on the 29th, so I forsee my future locked in the dark room playing with settings. Just a real bummer that it happened this time of year, when my wife is off work and there's time to kill.


----------



## huse0054

Curious, as I am thinking of purchasing the 5040 mainly for its lens memory and wanting to get a scope screen as I don't game and would mainly use it for blu-ray and occasional streaming on netflix. I have having a tough time deciding if this is the right projector for me. Help me decide, is 2.35:1 worth it. Is there any image degradation when using it for such an aspect ratio?


----------



## terminal33

talon95 said:


> Can someone summarize the current state of viewing 4k HDR streaming sources from Netflix and Amazon with the 5040UB?? Is this working with players that can output 24hz properly like the Roku Premier+ that does auto frame rate switching??
> 
> Also, what is the maximum frame rate that the 10mbit connection can handle for 4k HDR?? 30hz? Wondering if Amazon's The Grand Tour will work since it's 25hz...
> 
> Thanks.


I have the Roku P+ and I don't think I got any 4K HDR streams to work with Amazon, Netflix, nor Vudu. (This is with output @30Hz.) I now have a Shield and can force output @24Hz and I am able to get 4K HDR with Amazon and Vudu. With Netflix, I can get HDR, but not in 4K. (However, the Shield supposedly upscales it to 4K, which isn't that impressive to me.) And yes, The Grand Tour displays 4K HDR, even with the Shield set to 24Hz. (And it looks fantastic!)


----------



## aaranddeeman

viperlogic said:


> re 1.11 firmware, I did a sweep with my meter before and after upgrading from 1.09 to 1.11 which shows the increased brightness from a different tone mapping which has raised the diffuse white point but results now with less room for spectral highlights. Also note, peak brightness reduced.
> 
> See here for graph http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...pson-5040-6040-projectors-7.html#post55313526


What would be your recommendation if I may ask. One Should or not update the FW to 1.11?


----------



## talon95

terminal33 said:


> I have the Roku P+ and I don't think I got any 4K HDR streams to work with Amazon, Netflix, nor Vudu. (This is with output @*30Hz* .) I now have a Shield and can force output @24Hz and I am able to get 4K HDR with Amazon and Vudu. With Netflix, I can get HDR, but not in 4K. (However, the Shield supposedly upscales it to 4K, which isn't that impressive to me.) And yes, The Grand Tour displays 4K HDR, even with the Shield set to 24Hz. (And it looks fantastic!)


The newest firmware for the Roku has an advanced system setting that will match refresh rate to the source material. Plex on the Shield has the same option, although I don't think the Shield has it as a system setting. All you can do is force the Shield to 24hz like you're saying. I've not had 100% success with that though. Playback isn't always 100% smooth with mine.


----------



## badaripanu

*5040UB does not power on*

Set up: 5040UB, SONY1080 Tuner, SAMSUNG BD 8500 4K, Did the firmware update on the projector. Bought July 30th 2017. 
Worked like a charm until two days ago. Hardly any Lamp hours. Installed in my 3rd floor room(cooled/heated). 

Today when I pressed Power on the Epson remote, it did not come on. Pressed power button on the 5040UB and it did not turn on. Unplugged the power cord from the back and replugged. All the lights came on in blue, blinked like it normally does(I guess) and then went away. Tried remote and pressing Power button on the projector. Did not turn on. After that whatever I do, no lights at all. Moved power cord from the power strip surge protector to the wall. Tested the wall outlet and it is OK. It is still under warranty. Tried whatever it says on the Epson website.

Have not called Epson yet. Before going through that process, wanted to do some sanity check with you guys.

Badari
P.S: I did search this forum with 5040UB does not power on.


----------



## fritz11

The new FW update is realy good!!!


----------



## NetViper

talon95 said:


> Can someone summarize the current state of viewing 4k HDR streaming sources from Netflix and Amazon with the 5040UB?? Is this working with players that can output 24hz properly like the Roku Premier+ that does auto frame rate switching??
> 
> Also, what is the maximum frame rate that the 10mbit connection can handle for 4k HDR?? 30hz? Wondering if Amazon's The Grand Tour will work since it's 25hz...
> 
> Thanks.


Tried grand tour last night. It is in hdr but the color was 8 bit. That was with the linker. I might try it without the linker.


----------



## descalabro

badaripanu said:


> Set up: 5040UB, SONY1080 Tuner, SAMSUNG BD 8500 4K, Did the firmware update on the projector. Bought July 30th 2017.
> Worked like a charm until two days ago. Hardly any Lamp hours. Installed in my 3rd floor room(cooled/heated).
> 
> Today when I pressed Power on the Epson remote, it did not come on. Pressed power button on the 5040UB and it did not turn on. Unplugged the power cord from the back and replugged. All the lights came on in blue, blinked like it normally does(I guess) and then went away. Tried remote and pressing Power button on the projector. Did not turn on. After that whatever I do, no lights at all. Moved power cord from the power strip surge protector to the wall. Tested the wall outlet and it is OK. It is still under warranty. Tried whatever it says on the Epson website.
> 
> Have not called Epson yet. Before going through that process, wanted to do some sanity check with you guys.
> 
> Badari
> P.S: I did search this forum with 5040UB does not power on.



It seems the projector's power supply module isn't working properly. Was there a storm or any kind of energy peak in your area recently?


----------



## ruggercb

badaripanu said:


> Set up: 5040UB, SONY1080 Tuner, SAMSUNG BD 8500 4K, Did the firmware update on the projector. Bought July 30th 2017.
> 
> Worked like a charm until two days ago. Hardly any Lamp hours. Installed in my 3rd floor room(cooled/heated).
> 
> 
> 
> Today when I pressed Power on the Epson remote, it did not come on. Pressed power button on the 5040UB and it did not turn on. Unplugged the power cord from the back and replugged. All the lights came on in blue, blinked like it normally does(I guess) and then went away. Tried remote and pressing Power button on the projector. Did not turn on. After that whatever I do, no lights at all. Moved power cord from the power strip surge protector to the wall. Tested the wall outlet and it is OK. It is still under warranty. Tried whatever it says on the Epson website.
> 
> 
> 
> Have not called Epson yet. Before going through that process, wanted to do some sanity check with you guys.
> 
> 
> 
> Badari
> 
> P.S: I did search this forum with 5040UB does not power on.




Better call Epson. Mine did the same thing and they had to replace the projector. A few others have mentioned the same thing. They’re pretty good about sending a replacement quickly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jacksork

I currently game and watch standard blu ray movies on an original PS4 with the Epson 5040ube using the wireless transmitter. I'm considering upgrading from the PS4 to the Xbox One X. I use the Denon 4300 receiver. Anyone made the move from an original PS4 to Xbox One X or have recommendations? Should I just stick with the PS4. Its seems as if people are having some issues with the Xbox One X and the Epson 5040. I have no complaints using the PS4 except it doesn't display 4k blu rays.


----------



## Stereojeff

roland6465 said:


> It?s a sad day. After less than 700 hours, and working perfectly last night, my 6040 is dead as a door nail. Tried switching and testing my outlets, starting it in update mode, nothing.
> 
> And since it?s Christmas, the replacement may not come until Tuesday or Wednesday. Sigh.


How odd. Same problem with my 6040. Dead. Awaiting a call back from advanced product support today. 

Jeff


----------



## Juiced46

jacksork said:


> I currently game and watch standard blu ray movies on an original PS4 with the Epson 5040ube using the wireless transmitter. I'm considering upgrading from the PS4 to the Xbox One X. I use the Denon 4300 receiver. Anyone made the move from an original PS4 to Xbox One X or have recommendations? Should I just stick with the PS4. Its seems as if people are having some issues with the Xbox One X and the Epson 5040. I have no complaints using the PS4 except it doesn't display 4k blu rays.



I have PS4, PS4 Pro, Xbox One S and Xbox One X all on my 5040. I prefer Xbox over PS4. With that being said. If you want to game and take advantage of 4K/60hz HDR gaming, you will NEED a Linker. long story short, the complaint is, out of the box, the Epson cannot take the 4K/HDR signal the Xbox sends, so you need a Linker to "Trick" it. 

The Xbox One X will do 4K UHD Blu rays with no Linker and it seems to do it well so far from what I have tested. The main issue which has been talked about a ton here is getting 4K HDR to work. But that goes the same for the PS4 Pro as well. The Linker is needed for both. If you do not mind dropping another $200 onto your upgrade to do it, its worth it. With no Linker, you get a 1080P/60hz image upscaled to 4K with NO HDR. So you will utilize the better processing power of the Xbox, 60fps game play is smooth, you just will not get true 4K or HDR without the Linker.


----------



## babado

Friend just installed a 6040UB with a 108" Black Diamond screen it looks amazing. He has DTV and he wants to add a Sony UBP-X800 for Amazon and Netfix streaming. 

Older DD receiver just processing 7.1 audio via digital coax, no HDMI.

Will be using a Atlona Junox 451 HDMI switcher to switch from DTV to DVD anyone used the switcher or DVD player with the 6040Ub looking for issues if any?

Thank you in advance.


----------



## Peter DS

*New owner!*

I just connected for the first time my Epson HC4000 to a Sony UBP X800 and inserted the 4k disc of Mad Max. I am getting this message:

"This player is not connected to a High dynamic Range (HDR) compatible TV" 

I am connecting via a Yamaha RX 679.

Is this normal? or is there some setting I am not using. When the movie is playing, I went to the projector's menu/ info/projector info. It says resolution is 3840X2160, 12 bit 4:2:2 etc


----------



## babado

Peter DS said:


> I just connected for the first time my Epson HC4000 to a Sony UBP X800 and inserted the 4k disc of Mad Max. I am getting this message:
> 
> "This player is not connected to a High dynamic Range (HDR) compatible TV"
> 
> I am connecting via a Yamaha RX 679.
> 
> Is this normal? or is there some setting I am not using. When the movie is playing, I went to the projector's menu/ info/projector info. It says resolution is 3840X2160, 12 bit 4:2:2 etc


I would think that's a software issue with the Yamaha, I'd bet it will play without issue if you go direct to the Display!


----------



## jacksork

Juiced46 said:


> I have PS4, PS4 Pro, Xbox One S and Xbox One X all on my 5040. I prefer Xbox over PS4. With that being said. If you want to game and take advantage of 4K/60hz HDR gaming, you will NEED a Linker. long story short, the complaint is, out of the box, the Epson cannot take the 4K/HDR signal the Xbox sends, so you need a Linker to "Trick" it.
> 
> The Xbox One X will do 4K UHD Blu rays with no Linker and it seems to do it well so far from what I have tested. The main issue which has been talked about a ton here is getting 4K HDR to work. But that goes the same for the PS4 Pro as well. The Linker is needed for both. If you do not mind dropping another $200 onto your upgrade to do it, its worth it. With no Linker, you get a 1080P/60hz image upscaled to 4K with NO HDR. So you will utilize the better processing power of the Xbox, 60fps game play is smooth, you just will not get true 4K or HDR without the Linker.


Thanks for the response...much to think and ponder over.


----------



## Dave Harper

achanonier said:


> HI There
> 
> 
> 
> Tried new firmware yesterday, indeed HDR1 is brighter on the mid ranges and HDR2 seems to crushes the whites realiers than previous HDR2.
> 
> I dialed in somes pretty good settings using natural and HDR1.
> 
> 
> 
> However I can confirm that as SDR is unchanged it doesn't make any difference with Harpervision HDR on SDR setting... I d'ont know how peoples can see any difference if they are using this settings correctly...
> 
> 
> 
> An again for thoses claiming that they get better results using HDR1 on Harpervision instead of SDR, either there is something very wrong in your setup or you dialed in completely diffrent contrast and gamma settings so it's not Harpervision anymore. HDR setting with Harpervison is way out ot place and completely unwatchable which is meant to be that way as it has been made to be used with SDR range mapping on an HDR signal.



Yes this sounds very true and I'd have to agree, if the new FW indeed doesn't change the SDR gamma at all. 




amarkow said:


> I also use Hapervision settings and adjusted the main settings (saturation, contrast, brightness) as well as the color tone settings. Thus far I've left the gamma settings alone. I'm still tweaking the image, so I don't think I'm at the final settings yet, but the picture looks much better. Interestingly, my HDTV colors were too saturated with 1.11, so I dialed back these settings as well.



When you say you've left the gamma settings alone, do you mean the stock OOB settings or the gamma numbers I posted, and you didn't tweak them slightly for your environment?



Chris the Rock said:


> I just read this more carefully.
> 
> 
> 
> It's been mentioned on this forum many times, but it's admittedly impossible to find within 400+ pages: HarperVision isn't meant to be used with HDR Dynamic Range modes (HDR1, HDR2, etc). HarperVision is for feeding HDR content to the projector, while keeping the Dynamic Range mode set on SDR. A Custom Gamma curve is applied, and the projector is set in Digital Cinema Color Mode (introducing the P3 Color Filter, reducing the overall light output).
> 
> 
> 
> Once set that way, the user-menu adjustments like Brightness, Contrast, Color Saturation, and Tint have to be set to specific values to counteract the odd appearance you'd have leaving them at their default settings.
> 
> 
> 
> I understand that these settings were devised to overcome a weakness in the tone mapping algorithm which gives this projector a very dim appearance when viewing HDR content in an HDR Dynamic Range mode. Forcing the Dynamic Range mode to SDR and tweaking the Gamma and user menu controls "fixes" the issue, and gives the image a lot more "pop".
> 
> 
> 
> I personally liked it very much, but since the HarperVision settings lacked Color Management System control settings, and because it requires the projector to be permanently set to SDR Dynamic Range mode with High Lamp output (and I do plenty of gaming) I eventually decided against making it my permanent choice.
> 
> 
> 
> My point is, if you use the HarperVision settings as published, but change the Dynamic Range mode from SDR to HDR Auto Bright (or any of the HDR settings), all the other user menu and Gamma settings will not yield correct results - at least not results that Mr. Harper intended when he shared the settings. So please, if you change off of SDR Dynamic Range, please consider making adjustments to the user menu controls. I'd recommend downloading the R. Masciola Test Patterns and using the Basic Test Patterns to set Brightness, Contrast, Color Saturation, and Tint.
> 
> 
> 
> When we learn what actually happened with this Firmware Update (1.11), it might shed light on why people are feeling that the HarperVision settings were "too bright" after the update.



Nail hit squarely on head! Thanks for posting that very informative and true post regarding my HarperVision settings, Chris the Rock. 




ANDYK48 said:


> Hello everyone,
> I got my new EPSON EH-TW9300W (5040Ube) projector about a month ago.
> I have recently found about the Dave Harper's setting for the projector and I thin they are fantastic.
> 
> I would like to ask Dave whether there is a way to use these settings with Natural mode instead of Digital Cinema mode and still getting the advantage of HDR and WCG without having the filter between the light path.
> Thanks a lot.



No you won't get full WCG colors without the P3 Color Filter engaged like it is in Digital Cinema mode. You may get close, like 85-90% of full P3, but that's a trade off only you can make if it enhances other areas that you like better. 



Lithium said:


> Maybe let Dave Harper borrow it for a little bit so he can get us RGBCMY settings for SDR mode.



Yes it's killing me that I can't get one sent here, even with my offer to do FREE ISF Calibration and HarperVision treatment on it for the lucky shipper. 

I could buy one and do it, but then I'd have to concern myself with trying to sell it and not lose anything.


----------



## amarkow

Dave Harper said:


> Yes this sounds very true and I'd have to agree, if the new FW indeed doesn't change the SDR gamma at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you say you've left the gamma settings alone, do you mean the stock OOB settings or the gamma numbers I posted, and you didn't tweak them slightly for your environment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nail hit squarely on head! Thanks for posting that very informative and true post regarding my HarperVision settings, Chris the Rock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No you won't get full WCG colors without the P3 Color Filter engaged like it is in Digital Cinema mode. You may get close, like 85-90% of full P3, but that's a trade off only you can make if it enhances other areas that you like better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it's killing me that I can't get one sent here, even with my offer to do FREE ISF Calibration and HarperVision treatment on it for the lucky shipper.
> 
> I could buy one and do it, but then I'd have to concern myself with trying to sell it and not lose anything.


Hi Dave -- I'm using your original Harpervision settings. With 1.11 FW update, I left all settings in Harpervision, but tweaked color, saturation and contrast. My gamma settings are the ones you recommended although I may have tweaked some of them a bit for my situation. However, those adjustments would have been minimal (one click up or down). Thanks for all your help.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

fritz11 said:


> The new FW update is realy good!!!


don't want to spoil your fun with new FW but this passengers photo looks bad (hope it is just photo quality), check it out how it should look like:

https://images83.fotosik.pl/942/1ddafb0b7919385d.jpg


----------



## SALadder22FF

I've been gone for a little bit, are there any updates to what the community thinks is the best settings for the linker? I know I used it a little while back but couldn't get it to work as great as everyone said. 

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## fritz11

MartyMcFlyy said:


> don't want to spoil your fun with new FW but this passengers photo looks bad (hope it is just photo quality), check it out how it should look like:
> 
> https://images83.fotosik.pl/942/1ddafb0b7919385d.jpg


 
Hi!
It was a Handy Photo.
I see,your Picture have more Punch,but also i think when you compare our Photos you have
clipping maybe and you lost Details (Lower left Corner).
But i would be pleased if you can post your Settings for the hdr/4k Settings.
cu
Fritz


----------



## Lithium

Dave Harper said:


> Yes it's killing me that I can't get one sent here, even with my offer to do FREE ISF Calibration and HarperVision treatment on it for the lucky shipper.
> 
> I could buy one and do it, but then I'd have to concern myself with trying to sell it and not lose anything.


I know, I wish I had read these posts early a few weeks back before I had mounted the projector. I had it sitting around for a bit while I was finishing up the room. 

If I get called out of town for two weeks I'll let you know, hah.


----------



## badaripanu

descalabro said:


> It seems the projector's power supply module isn't working properly. Was there a storm or any kind of energy peak in your area recently?


Thanks for the reply.
To answer your question: No. Not to my knowledge. BUT, this Epson is my SECOND one. I bought one in June and one day there WAS a huge thunderstorm that came in through the Cable TV Cable into the hometheater into the Cable box, burnt it completely, then from there went into my SONY(via the HDMI) and burnt ONLY that HDMI Port and then through the HDMI cable from my SONY to the Epson it went and burnt ONLY THAT HDMI input. (Reason I know exact HMDI port is I was able to switch cable on SONY and EPson to the second one and play. 
Then I was only in 30 days of both products. So, sent them both back to Amazon and got news ones...AND immediately had a whole house surge protector(for two or threee hundred dollars) installed. So, coming to back to my current problem, that surge should have protected the projector; which was actually plugged into another local surge protector.

I will call Epson once the holidays are over on Tuesday.


----------



## badaripanu

ruggercb said:


> Better call Epson. Mine did the same thing and they had to replace the projector. A few others have mentioned the same thing. They’re pretty good about sending a replacement quickly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Please see my response to the other person..

Thanks. Glad to see I am not the only one wiht the problem. Will call Epson


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

fritz11 said:


> Hi!
> It was a Handy Photo.
> I see,your Picture have more Punch,but also i think when you compare our Photos you have
> clipping maybe and you lost Details (Lower left Corner).
> But i would be pleased if you can post your Settings for the hdr/4k Settings.
> cu
> Fritz


I m using Oledurt's birght cinema settings, lamp medium (max zoom to achieve max brightness on white ref screen), image enhancement 4 played on Oppo 203 - both the uhd player and Epson upgraded to the latest firmware. I did same comparison to my other player Panasonic UB700 and I think Oppo gives more sharp picture especially if you play with its image tuning features 
The details & clipping are quite ok at least when comparing to standard digital cinema mode.


----------



## ANDYK48

Dave Harper said:


> Yes this sounds very true and I'd have to agree, if the new FW indeed doesn't change the SDR gamma at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you say you've left the gamma settings alone, do you mean the stock OOB settings or the gamma numbers I posted, and you didn't tweak them slightly for your environment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nail hit squarely on head! Thanks for posting that very informative and true post regarding my HarperVision settings, Chris the Rock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No you won't get full WCG colors without the P3 Color Filter engaged like it is in Digital Cinema mode. You may get close, like 85-90% of full P3, but that's a trade off only you can make if it enhances other areas that you like better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it's killing me that I can't get one sent here, even with my offer to do FREE ISF Calibration and HarperVision treatment on it for the lucky shipper.
> 
> I could buy one and do it, but then I'd have to concern myself with trying to sell it and not lose anything.



Thanks Dave for your reply 
It sounds that I would get better results in Digital Cinema mode, so I will be using that one then.
Thanks
Andreas


----------



## seplant

john barlow said:


> I've been seeing quite a few of these posts about poor 3D picture quality issues from some of our members. It's utterly confusing to me why this dilemma is only affecting some owners and not others. I know that the glasses chosen to view 3D does make a huge difference. I like to have eight pair handy and I'm not paying another $800. for them. I like valueview for the extra brightness. Also, the setting used have made a difference as well. Epson could have avoided this by providing a couple pair of their 3D glasses. The one hundred dollar tag is uncalled for. Once I chose stable active glasses that provide a good synergy between projector and glasses getting advice here and tweaking the settings accordingly, I've not revisited poor 3d playback. Lucky me.


Are you saying you see no ghosting on any titles with the Valueview glasses and you did see ghosting with other brands of glasses (if so, what were those brands)? I have three different brands of glasses (including Epson), and all show an equal amount of ghosting when the problem presents itself. But the problem seems to come and go. One day a particular title will have terrible ghosting no matter which glasses are used. The next day the same title can look perfect. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to it. 

UPDATE: I wanted to set the record straight on this issue - Setting Auto Iris to OFF completely eliminated all ghosting that I was seeing! 3D is now spectacular on this projector!!!


----------



## ayrton

*3D Settings*

I'm pretty happy using my "out of box" 3D settings and Epson glasses. Are there any improved 3D settings posted?

Spent all my time using 4K settings proveded by this forum.. 

Merry Christmas to all, ayrton


----------



## old corps

old corps said:


> I'm unable to use my 5040's remote to control my 4K Bluray player (Sony X800). CEC/HDMI Link is turned on in the pj, a/v receiver (Onkyo RZ710) and player. It worked fine initially, doesn't now. What am I missing or what did I screw up?  Any suggestions appreciated!
> 
> 
> Ed


BUMP!

Anyone? It's a pain juggling remotes and so nice to be able to control the player with the Epson remote--like it DID. Whatta I gotta do to get it working? THANKS!

Merry Christmas everyone!

Ed


----------



## ed3120

I’ve been eyeing up a 5040UBE for quite a while, but my friend just told me he can get me a JVC DLAX570R for about the same price. He recommended and it got me thinking. 

I don’t know much about the JVC’s but I’ve heard they have better black levels, but may have latency problems for gamers. Is that true? 

I know the input on the JVC is 18 Gbps so it would not have the 4K HDR 60fps limitation that the 5040 has. 

How does the HDR and 3D capabilities compare to the 5040? Which one would you buy is the price were the same?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rgraylin

*PSVR with Older PS4, no Deep Color Support*

Guys been through forum a bunch but haven’t read about this issue. Picked up PSVR for my PS4, not PS4 Pro version. The PSVR I have is newer model processor (Passthrough box) that supports HDR Passthrough, older model didn’t. Problem I have is if deep color is set to auto in PS4, I get HDMI not supported on projector. This deep color setting worked fine without PSVR, but no dice with PSVR pass through box. I’m sending 1080/60 to projector so Epson chipset limit shouldn’t be a a factor. Any ideas?


----------



## marco1975

ed3120 said:


> I’ve been eyeing up a 5040UBE for quite a while, but my friend just told me he can get me a JVC DLAX570R for about the same price. He recommended and it got me thinking.
> 
> I don’t know much about the JVC’s but I’ve heard they have better black levels, but may have latency problems for gamers. Is that true?
> 
> I know the input on the JVC is 18 Gbps so it would not have the 4K HDR 60fps limitation that the 5040 has.
> 
> How does the HDR and 3D capabilities compare to the 5040? Which one would you buy is the price were the same?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i havn,t tried Gaming ,HDR and 3D capabilities on JVC projector , but i can only speak for the black level , because i had the JVC DLA-X35 just before buying the Epson EH-TW9300, and even dla-x35 can beat the Eh-tw9300 when it comes to black level , so i can only imagine that the DLAX570R would be even better.


----------



## Dave Harper

ed3120 said:


> I’ve been eyeing up a 5040UBE for quite a while, but my friend just told me he can get me a JVC DLAX570R for about the same price. He recommended and it got me thinking.
> 
> I don’t know much about the JVC’s but I’ve heard they have better black levels, but may have latency problems for gamers. Is that true?
> 
> I know the input on the JVC is 18 Gbps so it would not have the 4K HDR 60fps limitation that the 5040 has.
> 
> How does the HDR and 3D capabilities compare to the 5040? Which one would you buy is the price were the same?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Although I love the 5040, I don't believe it's a contest, JVC easily wins this one if they're the same price. Latency is fixed with the latest JVCs too.


----------



## ed3120

Dave Harper said:


> Although I love the 5040, I don't believe it's a contest, JVC easily wins this one if they're the same price. Latency is fixed with the latest JVCs too.




I did a little more reading and apparently the x570r doesn’t cover the BT.2020 or DCI-P3 gamuts. Only REC 709. Isn’t that a dealbreaker for HDR?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

ed3120 said:


> I did a little more reading and apparently the x570r doesn’t cover the BT.2020 or DCI-P3 gamuts. Only REC 709.


That's not true. The JVC x570R colour gamut is not as wide as the Epson 5040UB, but is is still quite a bit wider than Rec709. It's closer to P3 than to Rec709. See the attached CIE Diagram.
No current commercial displays come close to the full BT.2020.


----------



## robc1976

MartyMcFlyy said:


> I m using Oledurt's birght cinema settings, lamp medium (max zoom to achieve max brightness on white ref screen), image enhancement 4 played on Oppo 203 - both the uhd player and Epson upgraded to the latest firmware. I did same comparison to my other player Panasonic UB700 and I think Oppo gives more sharp picture especially if you play with its image tuning features
> The details & clipping are quite ok at least when comparing to standard digital cinema mode.


I have to say my panasonic 900 I am not need happy with it.

When playing uhd projector gets 709sdr signal...I then turn player on then off then its HDR 2020. 

Picture is good but think sony had better pic. I bought it originally to use HDR slider but that really

What does image enhancements do on the opp 203? Your happy with it? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## ed3120

Dominic Chan said:


> ed3120 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I did a little more reading and apparently the x570r doesn?t cover the BT.2020 or DCI-P3 gamuts. Only REC 709.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not true. The JVC x570R colour gamut is not as wide as the Epson 5040UB, but is is still quite a bit wider than Rec709. It's closer to P3 than to Rec709. See the attached CIE Diagram.
> No current commercial displays come close to the full BT.2020.
Click to expand...

Ok, got it. I would be putting this in a media room, with light control on the windows, but with walls and a ceiling that are not painted black. I watch TV mainly at night, but I also play games with my kids with the lights on. Best on that, would I be better off with the better blacks of the JVC or the brighter image of the Epson?


----------



## hnupe

*FW Update question*



fritz11 said:


> The new FW update is realy good!!!


What setting are you using in the pictures?


----------



## sddp

ayrton said:


> I'm pretty happy using my "out of box" 3D settings and Epson glasses. Are there any improved 3D settings posted?
> 
> Spent all my time using 4K settings proveded by this forum..
> 
> Merry Christmas to all, ayrton


This is a compilation of post here. Hope it helps as I am a HUGE 3D fan and bought this Epson because of 3D:





When i turned off the iris in 3D mode, everything was fine




So, I've been playing with the 3D a bit today. I'm using Rogue One as my test material, because it is one of the worst out there, for cross talk and ghosting. For me, I find that, if I leave the 3D brightness on low, and I use 3D dynamic color mode....all color/tint/brightness settings on default (which leaves the brightness on 50), and then, use Power Consumption on High, I get a pretty impressive 3D picture. It's not perfect. I do see cross talk from time to time, but it is limited and definitely watchable. Oh, I almost forgot, I have my 3D depth set to 2....0 was giving me too much cross talk.

Many have stated that Rogue One was so bad that it was "unwatchable". I'm not sure I could ever say that it was so bad for me that it was unwatchable. After taking multiple suggestions though (setting auto iris to off, setting 3D brightness to Low, changing 3D depth, etc.) it seems that I have optimized the picture quality. Again, is it perfect? No...but, definitely impressive, for the most part.

Finally, I do have to say that I have found different movies to give different results, as many have reported. I'm only using Rogue One as an example because it has been reported as the worst offender. It seems, depending on the movie, I might have to play with the 3D depth...but, leaving the auto iris to off, and the 3D brightness to Low, seems to provide the best results, as a whole.





----------------------------------------------------------------

post #6630 of 6643 





http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-221.html#post51609841


----------



## bytebuster

For the life of me I can't get a 4k signal while playing a UHD disc on the sony x800.
Funny thing is I can get a 4k signal from the player when its on the home screen or while playing 4k content in the player's youtube app. What am I missing? Confirmed that it is a 4k disc


----------



## WynsWrld98

bytebuster said:


> For the life of me I can't get a 4k signal while playing a UHD disc on the sony x800.
> Funny thing is I can get a 4k signal from the player when its on the home screen or while playing 4k content in the player's youtube app. What am I missing? Confirmed that it is a 4k disc


I have the same combo and no issues. If you're routing the signal through an A/V receiver try it direct to the projector. If that doesn't work your cable may be the problem. I'm routed through a Denon X6300H and no issues at all getting 4K out of the Sony.


----------



## mjanssentx

(Posting this in the 5040 thread as well since I assume the "fix" would be the same.)

Just got a new 4000 this week and love the video quality...big upgrade to the 6500 in brightness and picture quality. I have it connected to a Onkyo SR 805 receiver along with the rest of my equipment. The challenge: love the picture, but when I start a streaming device on my Onkyo, everything is good. When I shut down the projector....something is shutting down the input signal on what I am streaming. Shuts down the PS3, shuts down the brand new FireStick TV, shuts down the old FireStick (version 2). It does NOT shut down my TIVO inputs or the Chromecast version 1. 

I originally had an Epson 6500 where all of my devices continued to stream after I shut off the projector. But it appears the new 4000 is shutting off signals to my HDMI inputs for some of my devices. I found a HDMI Link setting in the menu and shut that down but that didn't seem to make a difference. Any ideas of how I can keep audio signals on to my Onkyo without having the projector on?

Any ideas? Thanks


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

robc1976 said:


> I have to say my panasonic 900 I am not need happy with it.
> 
> When playing uhd projector gets 709sdr signal...I then turn player on then off then its HDR 2020.
> 
> Picture is good but think sony had better pic. I bought it originally to use HDR slider but that really
> 
> What does image enhancements do on the opp 203? Your happy with it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


IMHO Oppo is the best player out there and very good match for Epson 
Re your image option questions I think I answered that in my original post, if not check out the manual (page 53):

http://download.oppodigital.com/UDP203/UDP-203_USER_MANUAL_ENGLISH_V1.0.pdf

BTW If you need to turn off UB900 to get HDR it is definitely something wrong with the settings, since UB900 detects the signal when you play UHD it should play HDR as soon as you set chroma / HDMI options correctly. At least this is the case with my UB700 which is same in this regard as UB900.


----------



## robc1976

MartyMcFlyy said:


> IMHO Oppo is the best player out there and very good match for Epson
> Re your image option questions I think I answered that in my original post, if not check out the manual (page 53):
> 
> http://download.oppodigital.com/UDP203/UDP-203_USER_MANUAL_ENGLISH_V1.0.pdf
> 
> BTW If you need to turn off UB900 to get HDR it is definitely something wrong with the settings, since UB900 detects the signal when you play UHD it should play HDR as soon as you set chroma / HDMI options correctly. At least this is the case with my UB700 which is same in this regard as UB900.


I agree, it worked flawless then after update it starts doing this. I.have looked over settings and can not see anything out of place. 

May no look at opp

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

MartyMcFlyy said:


> IMHO Oppo is the best player out there and very good match for Epson
> Re your image option questions I think I answered that in my original post, if not check out the manual (page 53):
> 
> http://download.oppodigital.com/UDP203/UDP-203_USER_MANUAL_ENGLISH_V1.0.pdf
> 
> BTW If you need to turn off UB900 to get HDR it is definitely something wrong with the settings, since UB900 detects the signal when you play UHD it should play HDR as soon as you set chroma / HDMI options correctly. At least this is the case with my UB700 which is same in this regard as UB900.


Just ordered one! Opp 203

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Just ordered one! Opp 203 and not bad on price for what you get. I literally have 3 players sitting here
> 
> Philips 7501
> Sony x800
> Pan 900
> 
> And now will have 203 lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## bytebuster

WynsWrld98 said:


> I have the same combo and no issues. If you're routing the signal through an A/V receiver try it direct to the projector. If that doesn't work your cable may be the problem. I'm routed through a Denon X6300H and no issues at all getting 4K out of the Sony.


I tried connecting the player directly and via my denon 6400. No luck. Note that 4k youtube content on the x800 or 4k content via apple tv work. So the cable can't be the issue. 
Sigh! This is frustrating.


----------



## aaranddeeman

mjanssentx said:


> (Posting this in the 5040 thread as well since I assume the "fix" would be the same.)
> 
> Just got a new 4000 this week and love the video quality...big upgrade to the 6500 in brightness and picture quality. I have it connected to a Onkyo SR 805 receiver along with the rest of my equipment. The challenge: love the picture, but when I start a streaming device on my Onkyo, everything is good. When I shut down the projector....something is shutting down the input signal on what I am streaming. Shuts down the PS3, shuts down the brand new FireStick TV, shuts down the old FireStick (version 2). It does NOT shut down my TIVO inputs or the Chromecast version 1.
> 
> I originally had an Epson 6500 where all of my devices continued to stream after I shut off the projector. But it appears the new 4000 is shutting off signals to my HDMI inputs for some of my devices. I found a HDMI Link setting in the menu and shut that down but that didn't seem to make a difference. Any ideas of how I can keep audio signals on to my Onkyo without having the projector on?
> 
> Any ideas? Thanks


Two words "HDMI CEC". Shut that off on every device (where it is possible).


----------



## ed3120

I’m trying to gauge how much the 10 Gbps HDMI source limitation would affect me. I don’t own a PS4 or Xbox One, so gaming isn’t a problem. My main concern is that the majority of my 4K content will be from Amazon/Netflix/other streaming services on my nVidia Shield. 

It will be a little annoying to constantly switch my Shield between 24hz/30hz/60hz, so I was wondering what framerate most of the shows are in these services. 

24Hz:
4K/HDR/24p movies and shows should be fine within the 5040UB’s limitations. Are the majority of the Amazon/Netflix original content TV series shown in 24p or are they higher?

30Hz:
Is 4K/HDR/30p content something that passes over the 5040UB wired inputs or the 5040UBE wireless inputs? Are there any shows in this format?

60Hz:
Obviously, 4K/HDR/60p content won’t fit inside the 10Gbps limit, but how much of the non-demo material really uses 60p? I know the TV demos that I find on YouTube use it, but after the initial “show off my new projector” period wears off, I probably won’t view many of these. How much Amazon/Netflix content could really be using this. 

In short, outside of video games, do you find the 10 Gbps limitation a problem in real life usage, or is it just something that you find more annoying knowing that you can’t have it, even though you really don’t use it?


----------



## Waboman

Alright guys, I need your advice. I guess my wife was tired of hearing me complain about my dying JVC projector. She bought me a 5040 for Christmas. Completely caught me off guard. I was like a deer in the headlights when I unwrapped it. But I digress. Unannounced to her, I've been toying with the idea of scrapping my front projection and getting a 75" 4K tv and movie it 3' closer. Now half of me wants to keep this. Or do I exchange it for a model that can do 18gbps? I feel so torn. I would greatly appreciate any thoughts you may have. Muchas gracias.


----------



## nickoakdl

Waboman said:


> Alright guys, I need your advice. I guess my wife was tired of hearing me complain about my dying JVC projector. She bought me a 5040 for Christmas. Completely caught me off guard. I was like a deer in the headlights when I unwrapped it. But I digress. Unannounced to her, I've been toying with the idea of scrapping my front projection and getting a 75" 4K tv and movie it 3' closer. Now half of me wants to keep this. Or do I exchange it for a model that can do 18gbps? I feel so torn. I would greatly appreciate any thoughts you may have. Muchas gracias.


I have the 5040 downstairs and a 75" Sony 940D upstairs. I still prefer my Epson. My advice is:

Keep the 5040 and buy a Samsung 4k player that will let you stream at 24Hz and let you get 4k and HDR from Amazon and Netflix.


----------



## Waboman

nickoakdl said:


> I have the 5040 downstairs and a 75" Sony 940D upstairs. I still prefer my Epson. My advice is:
> 
> Keep the 5040 and buy a Samsung 4k player that will let you stream at 24Hz and let you get 4k and HDR from Amazon and Netflix.


Small world. The tv I'm considering is the Sony 940e. I'm starting to second guess myself now. Having the projector in hand is changing the game. Like any guy, unless its around your waist, I hate giving up inches. 

As for players, I've had Oppos for so long I was just gonna stick with them and get the 203.


----------



## nickoakdl

Waboman said:


> Small world. The tv I'm considering is the Sony 940e. I'm starting to second guess myself now. Having the projector in hand is changing the game. Like any guy, unless its around your waist, I hate giving up inches.
> 
> As for players, I've had Oppos for so long I was just gonna stick with them and get the 203.


I don't know much about the Oppo's compatibility, but I know the Samsung has been pretty effortless.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Waboman said:


> Alright guys, I need your advice. I guess my wife was tired of hearing me complain about my dying JVC projector. She bought me a 5040 for Christmas. Completely caught me off guard. I was like a deer in the headlights when I unwrapped it. But I digress. Unannounced to her, I've been toying with the idea of scrapping my front projection and getting a 75" 4K tv and movie it 3' closer. Now half of me wants to keep this. Or do I exchange it for a model that can do 18gbps? I feel so torn. I would greatly appreciate any thoughts you may have. Muchas gracias.


Nice gift. I think she made a good choice. Returning it would be bit of insult to your wife...
BTW you won't find better option in this price range. There are always trade offs and 18Gb/s is one of them but you can live with that quite easily.

You can still have a projector and TV if you need it so you don't have a dilemma.


----------



## Viche

ed3120 said:


> I’ve been eyeing up a 5040UBE for quite a while, but my friend just told me he can get me a JVC DLAX570R for about the same price. He recommended and it got me thinking.
> 
> I don’t know much about the JVC’s but I’ve heard they have better black levels, but may have latency problems for gamers. Is that true?
> 
> I know the input on the JVC is 18 Gbps so it would not have the 4K HDR 60fps limitation that the 5040 has.
> 
> How does the HDR and 3D capabilities compare to the 5040? Which one would you buy is the price were the same?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





marco1975 said:


> i havn,t tried Gaming ,HDR and 3D capabilities on JVC projector , but i can only speak for the black level , because i had the JVC DLA-X35 just before buying the Epson EH-TW9300, and even dla-x35 can beat the Eh-tw9300 when it comes to black level , so i can only imagine that the DLAX570R would be even better.





Dave Harper said:


> Although I love the 5040, I don't believe it's a contest, JVC easily wins this one if they're the same price. Latency is fixed with the latest JVCs too.


There are two things that would make me hesitate on the JVC. One is the input lag really as low as the Epson's?

Secondly, and this is something that the JVC owners have admitted to in the Epson versus JVC thread, there seems to be a price for having that low of a black level, and its shadow detail. Maybe Dave can comment on this, but the impression that I got was that you get great blacks, but the shadow details are somewhat swallowed up by that black. Personally, I want the blacks to be as dark as possible without obscuring shadow detail. Something you might want to look into a bit. And of course let us know what you find out.


----------



## Keith Ferguson

*I may be able to support with a projector*



Dave Harper said:


> Yes this sounds very true and I'd have to agree, if the new FW indeed doesn't change the SDR gamma at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you say you've left the gamma settings alone, do you mean the stock OOB settings or the gamma numbers I posted, and you didn't tweak them slightly for your environment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nail hit squarely on head! Thanks for posting that very informative and true post regarding my HarperVision settings, Chris the Rock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No you won't get full WCG colors without the P3 Color Filter engaged like it is in Digital Cinema mode. You may get close, like 85-90% of full P3, but that's a trade off only you can make if it enhances other areas that you like better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it's killing me that I can't get one sent here, even with my offer to do FREE ISF Calibration and HarperVision treatment on it for the lucky shipper.
> 
> I could buy one and do it, but then I'd have to concern myself with trying to sell it and not lose anything.




I am a long time follower of this thread and would like to be able to support the effort with providing you with my projector. I am in Colorado and am in the process of finishing my theater room. please IM me with your info and we can talk. just an FYI, it is new in the box and has zero hours on it, will this be an issue? What are some ideas to get the most out of this effort? Obviously I would like it setup for my theater but would like to make the most out of the time to help everyone else. Cheers all.


----------



## Dominic Chan

ANDYK48 said:


> I would like to ask Dave whether there is a way to use these settings with Natural mode instead of Digital Cinema mode and still getting the advantage of HDR and WCG without having the filter between the light path.


Without the filter, you can use Bright Cinema which has wider gamut than Natural (which is Rec709).


----------



## jwhn

Keith Ferguson said:


> I am a long time follower of this thread and would like to be able to support the effort with providing you with my projector. I am in Colorado and am in the process of finishing my theater room. please IM me with your info and we can talk. just an FYI, it is new in the box and has zero hours on it, will this be an issue? What are some ideas to get the most out of this effort? Obviously I would like it setup for my theater but would like to make the most out of the time to help everyone else. Cheers all.



To me the most valuable thing would be to get the actual measurements, especially the gamma measurements. I don't find getting someone's settings very useful. Dave has a high end screen, his own throw distance, etc etc. and I can upload some measures from two different 5040s that show that their default measurements are very different out of the box. So copying someone's settings is very unlikely to give an optimal picture. 

It would be interesting to compare Daves measured gamma curve vs the BT.2390 "standard" tone mapping for HDR that has provided the best results so far for my set up.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

nickoakdl said:


> I don't know much about the Oppo's compatibility, but I know the Samsung has been pretty effortless.


I agree the Samsung player has been very good to me as well and the bonus of 4K HDR working natively on the big streaming services is huge plus.

PS - I ended up getting a Roku Ultra for Christmas (I've been a Roku guy for a long time and all my other TVs have them) and it does 4K great, a wider scope of apps support 4K, it's menu and apps are faster than the Samsung. But, forget HDR if you connect it to the Epson, it's a no-go. After messing around I finally set it to 4K 60fps without HDR that way it doesn't keep switching signals and blacking out the screen between menus and content. Anyway, this is the result I expected. I'll probably keep it for casual streaming.


----------



## edgecrush

nickoakdl said:


> I have the 5040 downstairs and a 75" Sony 940D upstairs. I still prefer my Epson. My advice is:
> 
> Keep the 5040 and buy a Samsung 4k player that will let you stream at 24Hz and let you get 4k and HDR from Amazon and Netflix.


Can you confirm that the Samsung player allows you to watch 4K HDR content from Vudu as well? I learned recently that Vudu also requires 60 Hz output in order to view HDR content (at least on a Roku Premiere+). It would be awesome if the Samsung player allows Vudu content to be output in 4K HDR 24Hz as well, as you have described being able to accomplish with Netflix and Amazon content. 

Also, does it output Dolby Atmos surround sound as well?

Since the 4K AppleTV has yet to offer Dolby Atmos surround support, but allows it's 4K HDR content to be output in 24 Hz, it would be awesome to find that I could get both from Vudu through the Samsung player!

Final question.....Is your model the Samsung UDP-M9500? I just want to be 100% clear and certain that we are talking about the exact same Samsung players because I have an older model Samsung 4K player which does NOT output Vudu in 4K HDR, only HDX.

Thanks for your help!


----------



## bytebuster

bytebuster said:


> I tried connecting the player directly and via my denon 6400. No luck. Note that 4k youtube content on the x800 or 4k content via apple tv work. So the cable can't be the issue.
> Sigh! This is frustrating.


An update. I updated the firmware on the 5040 and also plugged my hdmi cable into the HDMI1 input on the projector (versus HDMI2). And now I see 4k. Not sure which of these 2 fixed the problems.
Is there a difference between the 2 HDMI ports on the projector?


----------



## tasoik

Hello all and Merry Christmas,

I have the EU model 9300 (without wireless) and did some tests with Xbox One S and game Assassins creed Origin (which supposed to be HDR) 

With these settings I get this result. (8 bit SDR)

Is that normal or i missed something? 

For your info I have connected direct the xbox to the projector. But I get the same exact result with AVP (Marantz AV7704).

P.S. this is the brand new HDMI cable I'm using: http://www.in-akustik.de/en/cables-...d-hdmi-cable-with-ethernet-hdmi-20a-00423007/
with media player Zidoo X9S the projector "locks" in HDR with [email protected] material.
I have updated to latest firmware 1.11 but I believe this is irrelevant.


----------



## jwhn

bytebuster said:


> An update. I updated the firmware on the 5040 and also plugged my hdmi cable into the HDMI1 input on the projector (versus HDMI2). And now I see 4k. Not sure which of these 2 fixed the problems.
> 
> Is there a difference between the 2 HDMI ports on the projector?




Yes, you must use HDMI1 to get 4K


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nickoakdl

edgecrush said:


> Can you confirm that the Samsung player allows you to watch 4K HDR content from Vudu as well? I learned recently that Vudu also requires 60 Hz output in order to view HDR content (at least on a Roku Premiere+). It would be awesome if the Samsung player allows Vudu content to be output in 4K HDR 24Hz as well, as you have described being able to accomplish with Netflix and Amazon content.
> 
> Also, does it output Dolby Atmos surround sound as well?
> 
> Since the 4K AppleTV has yet to offer Dolby Atmos surround support, but allows it's 4K HDR content to be output in 24 Hz, it would be awesome to find that I could get both from Vudu through the Samsung player!
> 
> Final question.....Is your model the Samsung UDP-M9500? I just want to be 100% clear and certain that we are talking about the exact same Samsung players because I have an older model Samsung 4K player which does NOT output Vudu in 4K HDR, only HDX.
> 
> Thanks for your help!


The player I have is the 8500 series. I'll look into answering the rest of the questions tonight.


----------



## Valleyboy

Longtime reader of this forum (and it has been so helpful). I just received the newest Apple TV for Christmas and was wondering what the best 4K settings on it were to make it play nice with the projector. I know it has been addressed before, but I can't seem to find it. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.


----------



## jwhn

tasoik said:


> Hello all and Merry Christmas,
> 
> I have the EU model 9300 (without wireless) and did some tests with Xbox One S and game Assassins creed Origin (which supposed to be HDR)
> 
> With these settings I get this result. (8 bit SDR)
> 
> Is that normal or i missed something?
> 
> For your info I have connected direct the xbox to the projector. But I get the same exact result with AVP (Marantz AV7704).
> 
> P.S. this is the brand new HDMI cable I'm using: http://www.in-akustik.de/en/cables-...d-hdmi-cable-with-ethernet-hdmi-20a-00423007/
> with media player Zidoo X9S the projector "locks" in HDR with [email protected] material.
> I have updated to latest firmware 1.11 but I believe this is irrelevant.


Yes, it's normal. You cannot get 4K/HDR at 60Hz with this projector without buying a linker. Probably 25% or more of this huge thread is focused on this issue. You should be able to search to learn about it and what your options are.


----------



## marco1975

Viche said:


> There are two things that would make me hesitate on the JVC. One is the input lag really as low as the Epson's?
> 
> Secondly, and this is something that the JVC owners have admitted to in the Epson versus JVC thread, there seems to be a price for having that low of a black level, and its shadow detail. Maybe Dave can comment on this, but the impression that I got was that you get great blacks, but the shadow details are somewhat swallowed up by that black. Personally, I want the blacks to be as dark as possible without obscuring shadow detail. Something you might want to look into a bit. And of course let us know what you find out.


that is not entirely correct -it all depend on setting/calibration/room condition etc. , there was absolutely no different in the shadow details when i last compared both projector against each other. in my own setup.


----------



## Lithium

edgecrush said:


> Can you confirm that the Samsung player allows you to watch 4K HDR content from Vudu as well? I learned recently that Vudu also requires 60 Hz output in order to view HDR content (at least on a Roku Premiere+). It would be awesome if the Samsung player allows Vudu content to be output in 4K HDR 24Hz as well, as you have described being able to accomplish with Netflix and Amazon content.
> 
> Also, does it output Dolby Atmos surround sound as well?
> 
> Since the 4K AppleTV has yet to offer Dolby Atmos surround support, but allows it's 4K HDR content to be output in 24 Hz, it would be awesome to find that I could get both from Vudu through the Samsung player!
> 
> Final question.....Is your model the Samsung UDP-M9500? I just want to be 100% clear and certain that we are talking about the exact same Samsung players because I have an older model Samsung 4K player which does NOT output Vudu in 4K HDR, only HDX.
> 
> Thanks for your help!


We are referring to the Samsung UBD-K8500.

It will play both Netflix and Amazon in 4K 24fps HDR. However, the Vudu app currently only supports 2K non-atmos streams.


----------



## Juiced46

tasoik said:


> Hello all and Merry Christmas,
> 
> I have the EU model 9300 (without wireless) and did some tests with Xbox One S and game Assassins creed Origin (which supposed to be HDR)
> 
> With these settings I get this result. (8 bit SDR)
> 
> Is that normal or i missed something?
> 
> For your info I have connected direct the xbox to the projector. But I get the same exact result with AVP (Marantz AV7704).
> 
> P.S. this is the brand new HDMI cable I'm using: http://www.in-akustik.de/en/cables-...d-hdmi-cable-with-ethernet-hdmi-20a-00423007/
> with media player Zidoo X9S the projector "locks" in HDR with [email protected] material.
> I have updated to latest firmware 1.11 but I believe this is irrelevant.


Completely normal. The Epson does not support the 4K/60hz signal the Xbox sends out. What you are getting is 1080P upscaled to 4K. Your only option to get 4K and HDR is to purchase a Linker. However, you will only get 4K/60 8 bit, no more. If you search there is TONS of talk, screenshots, instructions how to make it work etc etc.


----------



## ayrton

nickoakdl said:


> I don't know much about the Oppo's compatibility, but I know the Samsung has been pretty effortless.


Got both. Use Sammy for Blu Ray and streaming and the 203 mainly for 4K. Also use the 203 for Blu Ray 60 fps. It can convert to 30 for the Epson when upscaling.. Love both players.


----------



## Dave Harper

ed3120 said:


> I did a little more reading and apparently the x570r doesn’t cover the BT.2020 or DCI-P3 gamuts. Only REC 709. Isn’t that a dealbreaker for HDR?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Dominic Chan said:


> That's not true. The JVC x570R colour gamut is not as wide as the Epson 5040UB, but is is still quite a bit wider than Rec709. It's closer to P3 than to Rec709. See the attached CIE Diagram.
> 
> No current commercial displays come close to the full BT.2020.





ed3120 said:


> Ok, got it. I would be putting this in a media room, with light control on the windows, but with walls and a ceiling that are not painted black. I watch TV mainly at night, but I also play games with my kids with the lights on. Best on that, would I be better off with the better blacks of the JVC or the brighter image of the Epson?


Dominic Chan is correct. 

I still believe the JVC is best, if your priorities are movies and TV at night. Maybe the Epson if daytime gaming is most important, but then you have to consider the 10Gbps limitations of the Epson when gaming. 




Viche said:


> There are two things that would make me hesitate on the JVC. One is the input lag really as low as the Epson's?
> 
> 
> 
> Secondly, and this is something that the JVC owners have admitted to in the Epson versus JVC thread, there seems to be a price for having that low of a black level, and its shadow detail. Maybe Dave can comment on this, but the impression that I got was that you get great blacks, but the shadow details are somewhat swallowed up by that black. Personally, I want the blacks to be as dark as possible without obscuring shadow detail. Something you might want to look into a bit. And of course let us know what you find out.



The lag may not be the same, but by all accounts it is much improved and very acceptable for serious gamers, of which I am not so take that with a grain of salt. 

Shadow details will be the result of a good calibration, including gamma. I had an RS600 here for awhile not long ago and after Calibration I was getting amazing shadow details and blacks. For HDR you probably want to use the Arve tools and custom JVC gamma curves. If done properly you shouldn't have any black crush. I do agree after reading a lot on them that there are a few folks out there that own JVCs and push the blacks too far into crushing without understanding what they're actually doing, and then praise how good their "black levels" are! 



jwhn said:


> To me the most valuable thing would be to get the actual measurements, especially the gamma measurements. I don't find getting someone's settings very useful. Dave has a high end screen, his own throw distance, etc etc. and I can upload some measures from two different 5040s that show that their default measurements are very different out of the box. So copying someone's settings is very unlikely to give an optimal picture.
> 
> It would be interesting to compare Daves measured gamma curve vs the BT.2390 "standard" tone mapping for HDR that has provided the best results so far for my set up.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Agreed and that's what I hope to find out with this venture. One thing to note though is that another's Calibrated numbers can get you a lot closer to a good Calibrated setting than nothing but out of the box stock settings. That is what I am trying to at least give to folks here, a starting point. Once they have that then they see where I was going with it and can then tailor it to their own environment and tastes, as I have said and pointed out on numerous occasions here. 



Keith Ferguson said:


> I am a long time follower of this thread and would like to be able to support the effort with providing you with my projector. I am in Colorado and am in the process of finishing my theater room. please IM me with your info and we can talk. just an FYI, it is new in the box and has zero hours on it, will this be an issue? What are some ideas to get the most out of this effort? Obviously I would like it setup for my theater but would like to make the most out of the time to help everyone else. Cheers all.



OK I will send a PM. I would try to put at least 50 hours on the lamp before any calibration, maybe even 100 hours.


----------



## fritz11

hnupe said:


> What setting are you using in the pictures?



Hi!
Oledurts Bright Cinema Settings for HDR/4k Videos
And for the XboxX Games 4k/HDR i have the Vertex and go
to 1080p/hdr/12Bit with Dynamic Contrast
cu


----------



## nickoakdl

edgecrush said:


> Can you confirm that the Samsung player allows you to watch 4K HDR content from Vudu as well? I learned recently that Vudu also requires 60 Hz output in order to view HDR content (at least on a Roku Premiere+). It would be awesome if the Samsung player allows Vudu content to be output in 4K HDR 24Hz as well, as you have described being able to accomplish with Netflix and Amazon content.
> 
> Also, does it output Dolby Atmos surround sound as well?
> 
> Since the 4K AppleTV has yet to offer Dolby Atmos surround support, but allows it's 4K HDR content to be output in 24 Hz, it would be awesome to find that I could get both from Vudu through the Samsung player!
> 
> Final question.....Is your model the Samsung UDP-M9500? I just want to be 100% clear and certain that we are talking about the exact same Samsung players because I have an older model Samsung 4K player which does NOT output Vudu in 4K HDR, only HDX.
> 
> Thanks for your help!





Lithium said:


> We are referring to the Samsung UBD-K8500.
> 
> It will play both Netflix and Amazon in 4K 24fps HDR. However, the Vudu app currently only supports 2K non-atmos streams.


I was able to stream a UHD title with Atmos sound, but no HDR using the Vudu app.


----------



## Lithium

nickoakdl said:


> I was able to stream a UHD title with Atmos sound, but no HDR using the Vudu app.


Is this a UBD-M9500? I double checked the UBD-K8500 and my Vudu app appears up to date and can only stream HDX (but it says I own UHD).


----------



## nickoakdl

Lithium said:


> Is this a UBD-M9500? I double checked the UBD-K8500 and my Vudu app appears up to date and can only stream HDX (but it says I own UHD).


It's the 8500. Do you have the option checked in the Samsung's menu that enables streaming content to 24p?


----------



## Lithium

nickoakdl said:


> It's the 8500. Do you have the option checked in the Samsung's menu that enables streaming content to 24p?


Yeah, the latest player update divided that setting into two options. One for streaming and one for disks. I have both set to 24p.

Odd, it's like my app isn't up to date then. It shows that it is. Maybe I'll try factory resetting the thing and see what happens.


----------



## tasoik

jwhn said:


> Yes, it's normal. You cannot get 4K/HDR at 60Hz with this projector without buying a linker. Probably 25% or more of this huge thread is focused on this issue. You should be able to search to learn about it and what your options are.


Thanks for the reply. So the goal with the linker is to downconvert 60hz to 24 (just like the movies) in order to reach the Epson's limitation of 10.2gbps?


----------



## PhenixS1970

Hi All,

My 9300 (6040ub) has been ISF'd for 2D viewing (only). I want to tweak the standard 3D cinema settings to get a bit more punch in the colors. Would be great if some could share their 3D settings  Btw prefer to run on mid lamp as high is just too noisy for me.

Thanks.
Stef


----------



## edgecrush

nickoakdl said:


> I was able to stream a UHD title with Atmos sound, but no HDR using the Vudu app.


I appreciate your help! I was hoping maybe I had found the solution, but alas, not yet!

It states on Vudu's forum, when they discuss the available devices that allow 4K AND HDR, that the newer Samsung 9500 will work....The issue still is, I am not too confident that it will allow it at 24 Hz. If anyone has the 9500 and would like to test this, it would be awesome hearing the results!

Thanks again!


----------



## SALadder22FF

I am in need of some Linker assistance.

I have it set between my Marantz reciever and wireless transmitter for the Ube. Sound works fine but Xbox One X doesn't show all check marks.

If I move it in between the X1X HDMI and reciever, all check marks are green, but no sound.

Has anyone experienced this? Is this specific to the wireless? I would greatly appreciate some help here.

Currently I can't connect the receiver straight into the projectors HDMI 1 input. When I was able to do this a few months ago I got sound and all green check marks.

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Seawater

sddp said:


> This is a compilation of post here. Hope it helps as I am a HUGE 3D fan and bought this Epson because of 3D:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When i turned off the iris in 3D mode, everything was fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I've been playing with the 3D a bit today. I'm using Rogue One as my test material, because it is one of the worst out there, for cross talk and ghosting. For me, I find that, if I leave the 3D brightness on low, and I use 3D dynamic color mode....all color/tint/brightness settings on default (which leaves the brightness on 50), and then, use Power Consumption on High, I get a pretty impressive 3D picture. It's not perfect. I do see cross talk from time to time, but it is limited and definitely watchable. Oh, I almost forgot, I have my 3D depth set to 2....0 was giving me too much cross talk.
> 
> Many have stated that Rogue One was so bad that it was "unwatchable". I'm not sure I could ever say that it was so bad for me that it was unwatchable. After taking multiple suggestions though (setting auto iris to off, setting 3D brightness to Low, changing 3D depth, etc.) it seems that I have optimized the picture quality. Again, is it perfect? No...but, definitely impressive, for the most part.
> 
> Finally, I do have to say that I have found different movies to give different results, as many have reported. I'm only using Rogue One as an example because it has been reported as the worst offender. It seems, depending on the movie, I might have to play with the 3D depth...but, leaving the auto iris to off, and the 3D brightness to Low, seems to provide the best results, as a whole.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> post #6630 of 6643
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-221.html#post51609841


You solved it! I tried your settings and the crosstalk and ghosting is much better. Also 3D depth is the key. That will eliminate much of the ghosting. Watched the 2014 Godzilla in 3D last night and it was great. Thanks again!


----------



## ed3120

fritz11 said:


> Hi!
> Oledurts Bright Cinema Settings for HDR/4k Videos
> And for the XboxX Games 4k/HDR i have the Vertex and go
> to 1080p/hdr/12Bit with Dynamic Contrast
> cu




I’m still debating between the JVC X570R and the 5040UB. I know people say the JVC wins in black level. Can anyone compare the “pop” to the image for SDR and HDR? I’ll be using a 125” 1.1 gain screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nickoakdl

edgecrush said:


> I appreciate your help! I was hoping maybe I had found the solution, but alas, not yet!
> 
> It states on Vudu's forum, when they discuss the available devices that allow 4K AND HDR, that the newer Samsung 9500 will work....The issue still is, I am not too confident that it will allow it at 24 Hz. If anyone has the 9500 and would like to test this, it would be awesome hearing the results!
> 
> Thanks again!


Honestly, I wouldn't let the lack of HDR on the Vudu app hold you back. I'm pretty sure most of the time people wouldn't know if something was displayed in HDR if the display didn't have to tell them.


----------



## edgecrush

nickoakdl said:


> Honestly, I wouldn't let the lack of HDR on the Vudu app hold you back. I'm pretty sure most of the time people wouldn't know if something was displayed in HDR if the display didn't have to tell them.


I have many of the same movies on AppleTV (iTunes) in 4K as I do on Vudu. Most, if not all of those movies are 4K HDR in iTunes and I see a noticeable quality upgrade on the AppleTV as far as picture. Yes, most of those movies are available in Atmos on Vudu, but my preamp upscales "fakes out" the Atmos sound and spreads it across the ceiling speakers anyway. If my preamp didn't tell me it was wasn't in Atmos, I probably wouldn't even know! 

I guess some will prefer slight video upgrades vs. slight audio upgrades. If only one or the other would offer both natively! Then, that service would be deemed the winner! LOL


----------



## Mr.G

SALadder22FF said:


> I am in need of some Linker assistance.
> 
> I have it set between my Marantz reciever and wireless transmitter for the Ube. Sound works fine but Xbox One X doesn't show all check marks.
> 
> If I move it in between the X1X HDMI and reciever, all check marks are green, but no sound.
> 
> Has anyone experienced this? Is this specific to the wireless? I would greatly appreciate some help here.
> 
> Currently I can't connect the receiver straight into the projectors HDMI 1 input. When I was able to do this a few months ago I got sound and all green check marks.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


You'll get a better response in the HDFURY Linker Owners Thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2905929-hdfury-linker-owners-thread.html


----------



## sddp

Juiced46 said:


> Completely normal. The Epson does not support the 4K/60hz signal the Xbox sends out. What you are getting is 1080P upscaled to 4K. Your only option to get 4K and HDR is to purchase a Linker. However, you will only get 4K/60 8 bit, no more. If you search there is TONS of talk, screenshots, instructions how to make it work etc etc.



I have the XB1X and on Star Wars Battlefront II, would using a Linker make a far better?


Those with out Linker, which have you noticed a better game play, Natural or Cinema?


----------



## jwhn

tasoik said:


> Thanks for the reply. So the goal with the linker is to downconvert 60hz to 24 (just like the movies) in order to reach the Epson's limitation of 10.2gbps?



I will defer to others who have a linker and know more about it. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

tasoik said:


> Thanks for the reply. So the goal with the linker is to downconvert 60hz to 24 (just like the movies) in order to reach the Epson's limitation of 10.2gbps?


If I remember correctly, the Linker cannot change frame rate. It converts 10 bit HDR to 8 bit to fit within the bandwidth.


----------



## tasoik

Dominic Chan said:


> If I remember correctly, the Linker cannot change frame rate. It converts 10 bit HDR to 8 bit to fit within the bandwidth.


Thank you for the reply. 

I'm bit confused. As per my screenshots above I was expecting to see BT.2020 along with 4K @[email protected] bit instead of 709. Am I wrong?


----------



## ed3120

tasoik said:


> Thank you for the reply.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm bit confused. As per my screenshots above I was expecting to see BT.2020 along with 4K @[email protected] bit instead of 709. Am I wrong?



Yes. That’s what you want to see, but the only way is to buy an HDFury Linker and put it in the signal path between the console and the projector. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

Wel, I have my replacement 6040 hung, and am now running it to defog the lenses from being in a 20 degree FedEx truck all morning. Here's hoping I can get it looking as good as the original, with no dust blobs. I have baseline settings from the .pdf for HD, 4K SDR & HDR, but then I tweaked each over time, and since the original's power supply died, I didn't have a chance to get the exact numbers.


----------



## awayfromthelight

Hey guys - have scanned through this thread almost in its entirety -- don't think I came across this issue from any users. 3 questions 
1.) Fresh new 5040ub, something under 9 hours of lamp used. Using Xbox One S for 4K / UHD viewing, I noticed when I switch between the Xbox Dashboard and Blu Ray Player / App, I get a flash of green (presumably changing between 1080 and 2160?) - just want to make sure that's normal or expected?
2.) I have Harpervision running, but sometimes only run Power consumption on Medium (don't want to burn through the bulb at record speed, I like to indulge in the cinematic viewing on a nightly basis, with some Netflix binging here and there) -- is there something to adjust to make up for the lack of light/brightness? I feel like just upping the brightness setting itself takes away from what makes this projector best in the blacks -- could be completely wrong though.
3.) Is there a non-HDR configuration posted here that everyone defaults to for 1080p / 4k SDR? I know Dave mentioned running Natural -- is that natural with the default settings? Or another adjusted Gamma, etc.
Appreciate the insight. LOVE this PJ. Was going back and forth forever between this, the UHD65, and the future BenQ HT2550, but bit the bullet valuing contrast and blacks over sharpness, no regrets!


----------



## roland6465

I just got the picture sized right, and initial settings saved. Looks pretty good so far. Here?s a shot of Dispicable Me 2 in HDR from my iTunes library-


----------



## jmcomp124

*5040 UBE goes into standby on wireless operation*

Hi,
The 5040ube is less than a month old. Only on wireless operation projector goes into standby. I haven't timed it yet, but somewhere between 20 to 30 minutes. Sleep mode set to off. Sleep timer is not grayed out, so tried 30 and 1. 
HDMI 1 direct cable from Oppo UDP-203. 
Roku Ultra connected to HDMI in of Oppo
Marantz 8801 HDMI out connected to wireless epson switch. Cable/satellite is what I use the Marantz for.


Setup is to get 4K content bypassing Marantz that is not cable of HDCP 2.2. 

Any idea why the projector goes on standby only on wireless mode.
Watching Blu-rays or Roku through the HDMI1 does not cause this issue.
What else should I try?
Thanks,
Jai


----------



## whmacs

jmcomp124 said:


> Hi,
> The 5040ube is less than a month old. Only on wireless operation projector goes into standby. I haven't timed it yet, but somewhere between 20 to 30 minutes. Sleep mode set to off. Sleep timer is not grayed out, so tried 30 and 1.
> HDMI 1 direct cable from Oppo UDP-203.
> Roku Ultra connected to HDMI in of Oppo
> Marantz 8801 HDMI out connected to wireless epson switch. Cable/satellite is what I use the Marantz for.
> 
> 
> Setup is to get 4K content bypassing Marantz that is not cable of HDCP 2.2.
> 
> Any idea why the projector goes on standby only on wireless mode.
> Watching Blu-rays or Roku through the HDMI1 does not cause this issue.
> What else should I try?
> Thanks,
> Jai


Hi Jai,
Check if CEC control is enabled on any of your devices (including the Epson) and try turning CEC off (Epson call it HDMI link).
See page 22 and 30 of the Epson user manual. 

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## jwhn

awayfromthelight said:


> Hey guys - have scanned through this thread almost in its entirety -- don't think I came across this issue from any users. 3 questions
> 1.) Fresh new 5040ub, something under 9 hours of lamp used. Using Xbox One S for 4K / UHD viewing, I noticed when I switch between the Xbox Dashboard and Blu Ray Player / App, I get a flash of green (presumably changing between 1080 and 2160?) - just want to make sure that's normal or expected?
> 2.) I have Harpervision running, but sometimes only run Power consumption on Medium (don't want to burn through the bulb at record speed, I like to indulge in the cinematic viewing on a nightly basis, with some Netflix binging here and there) -- is there something to adjust to make up for the lack of light/brightness? I feel like just upping the brightness setting itself takes away from what makes this projector best in the blacks -- could be completely wrong though.
> 3.) Is there a non-HDR configuration posted here that everyone defaults to for 1080p / 4k SDR? I know Dave mentioned running Natural -- is that natural with the default settings? Or another adjusted Gamma, etc.
> Appreciate the insight. LOVE this PJ. Was going back and forth forever between this, the UHD65, and the future BenQ HT2550, but bit the bullet valuing contrast and blacks over sharpness, no regrets!



For #2 , I think Daves settings push brightness to near the max for digital cinema mode, so if it's still too dark I would try bright cinema that is probably the most appropriate HDR mode for most people. To get a decent HDR effect you really need at least 100 nits of luminance. I get 35 in digital cinema. Way too dim for HDR in my case.

For #3 , Natural mode seems to give the fewest errors (at least based on the calibrations I've done on my own projector). Out of the box settings should be pretty decent but you might experiment with the different gamma settings (-2,-1,0,1,2) to see what works best for your environment. Beyond that it's hard to provide more without knowing what errors you are trying to correct. From what I've seen each projector has its own color and gamma errors so providing settings might be just as likely to make things worse vs better. So short of doing a calibration you might start with default settings and use your eye from there. You can try others settings but should evaluate and adjust as needed.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

sddp said:


> I have the XB1X and on Star Wars Battlefront II, would using a Linker make a far better?
> 
> 
> Those with out Linker, which have you noticed a better game play, Natural or Cinema?


I run Bright Cinema both with and without the Linker. I feel it is worth it as you are getting 4K gaming plus adding HDR. Better details and colors (if you dial it in right)



tasoik said:


> Thanks for the reply. So the goal with the linker is to downconvert 60hz to 24 (just like the movies) in order to reach the Epson's limitation of 10.2gbps?


No. The goal with the Linker is to convert the 4K/60hz 10-12bit signal to the acceptable 4K/60hz 8 bit signal. You do not want to game at 24hz. 



awayfromthelight said:


> Hey guys - have scanned through this thread almost in its entirety -- don't think I came across this issue from any users. 3 questions
> 1.) Fresh new 5040ub, something under 9 hours of lamp used. Using Xbox One S for 4K / UHD viewing, I noticed when I switch between the Xbox Dashboard and Blu Ray Player / App, I get a flash of green (presumably changing between 1080 and 2160?) - just want to make sure that's normal or expected?
> 2.) I have Harpervision running, but sometimes only run Power consumption on Medium (don't want to burn through the bulb at record speed, I like to indulge in the cinematic viewing on a nightly basis, with some Netflix binging here and there) -- is there something to adjust to make up for the lack of light/brightness? I feel like just upping the brightness setting itself takes away from what makes this projector best in the blacks -- could be completely wrong though.
> 3.) Is there a non-HDR configuration posted here that everyone defaults to for 1080p / 4k SDR? I know Dave mentioned running Natural -- is that natural with the default settings? Or another adjusted Gamma, etc.
> Appreciate the insight. LOVE this PJ. Was going back and forth forever between this, the UHD65, and the future BenQ HT2550, but bit the bullet valuing contrast and blacks over sharpness, no regrets!


To answer your questions in order.

1. Yes, that is normal, it is switching to HDR. It always does this. The Xbox menu is not in HDR. When you load a movie that is HDR, thats why it switches.

2. I would suggest trying Oledurts settings since his settings do not run High power lamp mode and tweak it to your application. 

3. My best recommendation for SDR is. Try a few settings. The Xbox display configuration actually works quite well for dialing in SDR content. Try natural and save it to a custom memory. Try Bright Cinema etc and save them all (after making your adjustments). You have 10 save slots, use them. You can custom name them also to make it easier. Find the one that suits best to what you feel looks good. Not what people on here are telling you looks good. I find Bright Cinema to be my favorite go to setting so far.


----------



## Dave Harper

awayfromthelight said:


> Hey guys - have scanned through this thread almost in its entirety -- don't think I came across this issue from any users. 3 questions
> 1.) Fresh new 5040ub, something under 9 hours of lamp used. Using Xbox One S for 4K / UHD viewing, I noticed when I switch between the Xbox Dashboard and Blu Ray Player / App, I get a flash of green (presumably changing between 1080 and 2160?) - just want to make sure that's normal or expected?
> 2.) I have Harpervision running, but sometimes only run Power consumption on Medium (don't want to burn through the bulb at record speed, I like to indulge in the cinematic viewing on a nightly basis, with some Netflix binging here and there) -- is there something to adjust to make up for the lack of light/brightness? I feel like just upping the brightness setting itself takes away from what makes this projector best in the blacks -- could be completely wrong though.
> 3.) Is there a non-HDR configuration posted here that everyone defaults to for 1080p / 4k SDR? I know Dave mentioned running Natural -- is that natural with the default settings? Or another adjusted Gamma, etc.
> Appreciate the insight. LOVE this PJ. Was going back and forth forever between this, the UHD65, and the future BenQ HT2550, but bit the bullet valuing contrast and blacks over sharpness, no regrets!


Yes, Brightness is not what you want to adjust if you are looking for more lumens! That changes the black level floor, which as you noticed messes up the blacks and makes them more grey and milky. DO NOT use that other than to set it properly with a calibration pattern! The only way to get more brightness/lumens that you are looking for is to change modes (Like Bright Cinema that doesn't use the P3 Color filter which dims it) or the lamp power setting back to HIGH. You can also trick how bright it appears with things like gamma and using Contrast, but then it won't be to a calibrated level. So it is your choice and preference, but just know the consequences. I personally preferred to run the lamp on high whenever I watched an HDR source (the ONLY time you should be using HarperVision!), which wasn't adding up to a lot of my total viewing anyway, plus the lamps are cheap with this model, so burn away man! 

Natural mode is good for the other SDR 1080p and 4K non-HDR content. I think there are some good calibrated numbers floating around for that mode. Don't use my custom gamma for Natural mode though. Try the stock curves as mentioned, or see if someone has a custom one for SDR.



jwhn said:


> For #2 , I think Daves settings push brightness to near the max for digital cinema mode, so if it's still too dark I would try bright cinema that is probably the most appropriate HDR mode for most people. To get a decent HDR effect you really need at least 100 nits of luminance. I get 35 in digital cinema. Way too dim for HDR in my case..........


I am surprised you only got 35 nits in Digital Cinema Mode using HarperVision! I am pretty sure I got a lot more than that. I will have to go back and check, but I am almost positive it was a lot brighter than that. Are you maybe meaning 35 foot Lamberts instead of nits?


----------



## awayfromthelight

Dave Harper said:


> Yes, Brightness is not what you want to adjust if you are looking for more lumens! That changes the black level floor, which as you noticed messes up the blacks and makes them more grey and milky. DO NOT use that other than to set it properly with a calibration pattern! The only way to get more brightness/lumens that you are looking for is to change modes (Like Bright Cinema that doesn't use the P3 Color filter which dims it) or the lamp power setting back to HIGH. You can also trick how bright it appears with things like gamma and using Contrast, but then it won't be to a calibrated level. So it is your choice and preference, but just know the consequences. I personally preferred to run the lamp on high whenever I watched an HDR source (the ONLY time you should be using HarperVision!), which wasn't adding up to a lot of my total viewing anyway, plus the lamps are cheap with this model, so burn away man!
> 
> Natural mode is good for the other SDR 1080p and 4K non-HDR content. I think there are some good calibrated numbers floating around for that mode. Don't use my custom gamma for Natural mode though. Try the stock curves as mentioned, or see if someone has a custom one for SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I am surprised you only got 35 nits in Digital Cinema Mode using HarperVision! I am pretty sure I got a lot more than that. I will have to go back and check, but I am almost positive it was a lot brighter than that. Are you maybe meaning 35 foot Lamberts instead of nits?


Awesome. Thank you all for the replies - SUPER helpful. I've been running Oledurt for any non-HDR content thus far, and it's looked pretty good, I just get too strong of a de-satted feel when watching through that, so I always end up cranking that up more than usual. (yes, I'm the guy who enjoys watching TV's on dynamic picture mode). Will keep tinkering and messing with that without losing all that great black/shadow detail. 

So Dave (or anyone really, just stemming off his comment) just to clarify - Bright cinema doesn't use the P3 filter in a Rec 2020 container? (and does that mean everything else is solely Rec 709 as a result, if not Digital Cinema?) I guess I'm trying to weigh out the actual differences between Bright and Digital Cinema (if using Medium to ECO power modes) and if I can make up the difference between the switch like you mentioned... or just suck it up and use high power consumption and get some spare bulbs.


----------



## inspector

PhenixS1970 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> My 9300 (6040ub) has been ISF'd for 2D viewing (only). I want to tweak the standard 3D cinema settings to get a bit more punch in the colors. Would be great if some could share their 3D settings  Btw prefer to run on mid lamp as high is just too noisy for me.
> 
> Thanks.
> Stef



PM sent.


----------



## jwhn

awayfromthelight said:


> Awesome. Thank you all for the replies - SUPER helpful. I've been running Oledurt for any non-HDR content thus far, and it's looked pretty good, I just get too strong of a de-satted feel when watching through that, so I always end up cranking that up more than usual. (yes, I'm the guy who enjoys watching TV's on dynamic picture mode). Will keep tinkering and messing with that without losing all that great black/shadow detail.
> 
> So Dave (or anyone really, just stemming off his comment) just to clarify - Bright cinema doesn't use the P3 filter in a Rec 2020 container? (and does that mean everything else is solely Rec 709 as a result, if not Digital Cinema?) I guess I'm trying to weigh out the actual differences between Bright and Digital Cinema (if using Medium to ECO power modes) and if I can make up the difference between the switch like you mentioned... or just suck it up and use high power consumption and get some spare bulbs.



Oledurt's settings are actually designed for HDR. I don't think they are appropriate for SDR. 

Dominic Chan did an analysis that showed that bright cinema tracks the Rec.2020/P3 colors pretty well (and is not limited to Rec.709). So while you are gaining luminance in bright cinema you are not losing too much in the way of the wider color gamut. You should be able to find this post somewhere in the thread. 

You should also look into updating the firmware to 1.11 as it improves the HDR tone mapping and adds brightness. You may find that the out of the box HDR1 (auto) gamma setting looks pretty good with this update. Daves trick of running HDR content through SDR mode on the projector is a super creative way to address the issue of HDR being too dark. but he might find when he does his next 5040 HDR calibration that he doesn't need to use this trick anymore.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> I am surprised you only got 35 nits in Digital Cinema Mode using HarperVision! I am pretty sure I got a lot more than that. I will have to go back and check, but I am almost positive it was a lot brighter than that. Are you maybe meaning 35 foot Lamberts instead of nits?



With HV it would be more (I would have to measure again). But even Bright Cinema just barely gets me above 100 pushing the gamma to the max. My throw distance is ~14 feet to a 120" 1.0 gain screen.

A few of us have been attempting HDR calibrations with help from Dominic and Zoyd over on the HCFR forum, using a tone mapping approach based on the BT.2390 report. This is now included in the latest version of HCFR. This approach has given me the best HDR results so far on the 5040. Basic idea is to get the diffuse White at around 50 nits and have another 50 nits (or
more if possible) as headroom for spectral highlights, and do the roll off based on the 2390 tone mapping. I would be curious to get your reaction to this approach vs. others if you do get your hands on another 5040UB.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Teremei

So I'm not an owner, but I hope I can ask a couple questions since I might end up with this or whatever new version replaces this some day. How many hours do you get per bulb, and how much does the replacement bulb cost?

And how does the wireless aspect work? I would want to use this + an ATS solely for when I play blu rays and 4K movies. And my TV for games and regular TV. So I would get a ceiling mounted screen that I can pull in front of the TV whenever I want to watch a movie. I have a denon x4000. And right now I actually send video STRAIGHT to the TV and then out to my denon (with my 4k player I actually use 2 hdmi, one to TV, one to Denon for the audio). So how does wiresless work here? Is it something like an HDMI plug in that you plug both in the projector HDMI port as well as your AVR?

Oh and I'm sorry one more. Can someone tell me what is the absolute best 3D glasses for this projector for comfort/brightness.


----------



## tasoik

Juiced46 said:


> No. The goal with the Linker is to convert the 4K/60hz 10-12bit signal to the acceptable 4K/60hz 8 bit signal. You do not want to game at 24hz.


thanks for the reply. The Xbox has 8 bit setting indeed! So, I should get 4K/60hz 8 bit BT.2020 SDR without the linker. Correct?


----------



## tasoik

Teremei said:


> Oh and I'm sorry one more. Can someone tell me what is the absolute best 3D glasses for this projector for comfort/brightness.


I bought last month 2 X of this: https://www.amazon.com/EPSON-Compat...3588&sr=8-3&keywords=3active+3d+glasses+epson

long last battery, nice case (dust and scratch free) , excellent pairing , lightweight, wide side brackets (no eye-distraction) , no issues so far in general.

I have tried also JVC's glasses and the original and I have to warn you that ALL 3D active glasses decrease brightness around 40% . You can't avoid it. So get prepared for much noise (high lamp mode) .

If you are interested, you may call directly Steve http://www.dimensionaloptics.com for a better price. I bought it $150 (4 pairs)


----------



## Teremei

tasoik said:


> I bought last month 2 X of this: https://www.amazon.com/EPSON-Compat...3588&sr=8-3&keywords=3active+3d+glasses+epson
> 
> long last battery, nice case (dust and scratch free) , excellent pairing , lightweight, wide side brackets (no eye-distraction) , no issues so far in general.
> 
> I have tried also JVC's glasses and the original and I have to warn you that ALL 3D active glasses decrease brightness around 40% . You can't avoid it. So get prepared for much noise (high lamp mode) .
> 
> If you are interested, you may call directly Steve http://www.dimensionaloptics.com for a better price. I bought it $150 (4 pairs)


Yes I will increase the brightness during 3D movies. I'm glad to hear 3active has compatible glasses. I briefly wore some when I first got my 940d but they just did not work well (having to reset TV completely each time). But they were very comfortable. I am not in the market yet, I still have to pay off my new speakers. But a 3D projector is definitely in my future.


----------



## Juiced46

tasoik said:


> thanks for the reply. The Xbox has 8 bit setting indeed! So, I should get 4K/60hz 8 bit BT.2020 SDR without the linker. Correct?


Without the Linker. You get 4K/60hz BT709 SDR 8 bit for gaming. Amazon and UHD discs you get 4K/24hz BT2020 12 bit HDR without the Linker with the Xbox.


----------



## tasoik

Understood. Thank you.


----------



## Viche

Juiced46 said:


> Without the Linker. You get 4K/60hz BT709 SDR 8 bit for gaming. Amazon and UHD discs you get 4K/24hz BT2020 12 bit HDR without the Linker with the Xbox.


So why would anyone with an xbox need a linker?


----------



## Juiced46

Viche said:


> So why would anyone with an xbox need a linker?


To get HDR and native 4K for gaming


----------



## sddp

Juiced46 said:


> I run Bright Cinema both with and without the Linker. I feel it is worth it as you are getting 4K gaming plus adding HDR. Better details and colors (if you dial it in right)





Thanks

So would going through the hassle of getting/dialing in a Linker be worth while specifically for SWBF II on XB1X?

Basically is it a subtle differences or is it WHOA! this is amazing on a 150"?


----------



## Juiced46

sddp said:


> Thanks
> 
> So would going through the hassle of getting/dialing in a Linker be worth while specifically for SWBF II on XB1X?
> 
> Basically is it a subtle differences or is it WHOA! this is amazing on a 150"?



It is not night and day by any means. However it really brings out alot of detail going with HDR. I personally feel the upgrade is worth it. Some other users on here feel different, but I bet thwir calibrations are not so good. Ive been using the Linker for around a month or so. I removed it last night to see the difference in Pcars2 which ive been playing religously lately. The difference was enough for me to immediately plug the Linker back in. A few pages back I posted comparisons. They are cell phone pics, it doesnt do it justice as to how it looks in person. But to me, worth it.


----------



## sddp

Juiced46 said:


> It is not night and day by any means. However it really brings out alot of detail going with HDR. I personally feel the upgrade is worth it. Some other users on here feel different, but I bet thwir calibrations are not so good. Ive been using the Linker for around a month or so. I removed it last night to see the difference in Pcars2 which ive been playing religously lately. The difference was enough for me to immediately plug the Linker back in. A few pages back I posted comparisons. They are cell phone pics, it doesnt do it justice as to how it looks in person. But to me, worth it.


OK thanks

That's a tough one. I have a Darbee Vision DVP-500S and on my PS4 with SW batterfront I using the Epson 5040S it did make a very noticeable difference (not night and day though). But unfortunately with a new Denon X6400H receiver and the XBOX 1X it won't work 

Really bummed. So this Linker could be the alternative I am guessing.

HOWEVER.. here's the thing. Even though I al LOVING this Projector, there's soooooooo many limitations on it (I've read almost every post from day one here) with regards to 10bit, HDR, 4K, this, that. etc

I am pretty sure that the next model (well hoping) will be the next jump to true no hassle, no issue, no "this and that won't work"

And can finally just put in a 4K HDR disc and enjoy it with all it's glory with no con's attached and the Linker would be of no use.

I have so many devices in my signal chain already. Since the Darbee doesn't work with the Denon or the XB1X, I have it from the PS4 then to a 3D-Bee (a 3D up-converter) then to the Denon.

I think the New Darbee Vision 4K (if that ever comes out) will really take 4K to a whole new level


----------



## Juiced46

sddp said:


> OK thanks
> 
> That's a tough one. I have a Darbee Vision DVP-500S and on my PS4 with SW batterfront I using the Epson 5040S it did make a very noticeable difference (not night and day though). But unfortunately with a new Denon X6400H receiver and the XBOX 1X it won't work
> 
> Really bummed. So this Linker could be the alternative I am guessing.
> 
> HOWEVER.. here's the thing. Even though I al LOVING this Projector, there's soooooooo many limitations on it (I've read almost every post from day one here) with regards to 10bit, HDR, 4K, this, that. etc
> 
> I am pretty sure that the next model (well hoping) will be the next jump to true no hassle, no issue, no "this and that won't work"
> 
> And can finally just put in a 4K HDR disc and enjoy it with all it's glory with no con's attached and the Linker would be of no use.
> 
> I have so many devices in my signal chain already. Since the Darbee doesn't work with the Denon or the XB1X, I have it from the PS4 then to a 3D-Bee (a 3D up-converter) then to the Denon.
> 
> I think the New Darbee Vision 4K (if that ever comes out) will really take 4K to a whole new level


You can indeed get 4K HDR with a UHD disc with the Xbox and no linker or hassle.

The 6400 works, you have a setting wrong.

The $5000, 4K Sonys are having the same limitation issues...


----------



## Dave Harper

jwhn said:


> Oledurt's settings are actually designed for HDR. I don't think they are appropriate for SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Dominic Chan did an analysis that showed that bright cinema tracks the Rec.2020/P3 colors pretty well (and is not limited to Rec.709). So while you are gaining luminance in bright cinema you are not losing too much in the way of the wider color gamut. You should be able to find this post somewhere in the thread.
> 
> 
> 
> You should also look into updating the firmware to 1.11 as it improves the HDR tone mapping and adds brightness. You may find that the out of the box HDR1 (auto) gamma setting looks pretty good with this update. Daves trick of running HDR content through SDR mode on the projector is a super creative way to address the issue of HDR being too dark. but he might find when he does his next 5040 HDR calibration that he doesn't need to use this trick anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



If I get another one I would love to update it and then compare to my HarperVision settings. It would make me very happy if manufacturers did some good updates to their HDR tone mapping on projectors!

In Bright Cinema mode the projector doesn't engage and roll in the built in P3 color filter. It is true that even without the filter the 5040's native panels can still get to about 87% of DCI-P3 gamut if I'm not mistaken. 




jwhn said:


> With HV it would be more (I would have to measure again). But even Bright Cinema just barely gets me above 100 pushing the gamma to the max. My throw distance is ~14 feet to a 120" 1.0 gain screen.
> 
> A few of us have been attempting HDR calibrations with help from Dominic and Zoyd over on the HCFR forum, using a tone mapping approach based on the BT.2390 report. This is now included in the latest version of HCFR. This approach has given me the best HDR results so far on the 5040. Basic idea is to get the diffuse White at around 50 nits and have another 50 nits (or
> more if possible) as headroom for spectral highlights, and do the roll off based on the 2390 tone mapping. I would be curious to get your reaction to this approach vs. others if you do get your hands on another 5040UB.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Wow that sounds very interesting and a good approach! Do you have any links I can read up on? I've been using CalMAN Pro, but do have a copy of HCFR too. I doubt I'll get another 5040 here though. No one is biting on the free calibration and HarperVision offer unfortunately. 



Juiced46 said:


> You can indeed get 4K HDR with a UHD disc with the Xbox and no linker or hassle.
> 
> 
> 
> The 6400 works, you have a setting wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> The $5000, 4K Sonys are having the same limitation issues...



No, the Sonys aren't the same issue. They have 13.5Gbps hdmi inputs as compared to the 5040's 10.2Gbps HDMI. The Sonys can and do take in full 4K60p 4:2:0 10 or 12 bit. The issue is that the processor apparently isn't fast enough in them, so when they get a 60p signal they dither the 10/12 bit down to 8 bit for processing, the same as what folks are doing here with a Linker, which can result in some banding on 60p signals.


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> Do you have any links I can read up on? I've been using CalMAN Pro, but do have a copy of HCFR too. I doubt I'll get another 5040 here though. No one is biting on the free calibration and HarperVision offer unfortunately.


Here is the link. The first post has a few links as well that led to the formation of the dedicated link. Let me know what you think...

I thought I did see someone post taking you up on your offer, but I guess it didn't work out. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html

Edit - I think this link might help too as this was what started these exchanges around BT.2390 that is now included into the latest version of HCFR.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...cial-chromapure-3-thread-43.html#post55090392


----------



## Teremei

Does anyone use an acoustically transparent screen with their epson? Could someone recommend a good one? If I want 120" (which I do) I will need a ceiling mounted ATS that can be pulled down in front of the TV and Speakers as opposed to hung on the back wall. Not enough room back there without the big RF-7's blocking it.


----------



## Dave Harper

Teremei said:


> Does anyone use an acoustically transparent screen with their epson? Could someone recommend a good one? If I want 120" (which I do) I will need a ceiling mounted ATS that can be pulled down in front of the TV and Speakers as opposed to hung on the back wall. Not enough room back there without the big RF-7's blocking it.



First thing to know is your budget range. I could quote you some nice Stewart screens, but if they're triple your budget it means nothing, haha!

Shoot me a PM for more personal assistance so we don't clog up this thread with screen talk. 



jwhn said:


> Here is the link. The first post has a few links as well that led to the formation of the dedicated link. Let me know what you think...
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I did see someone post taking you up on your offer, but I guess it didn't work out.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - I think this link might help too as this was what started these exchanges around BT.2390 that is now included into the latest version of HCFR.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...cial-chromapure-3-thread-43.html#post55090392



Thanks man, I'll try to check that out!


----------



## jmcomp124

whmacs said:


> Hi Jai,
> Check if CEC control is enabled on any of your devices (including the Epson) and try turning CEC off (Epson call it HDMI link).
> See page 22 and 30 of the Epson user manual.
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen


Hi Stephen,
Thanks for the pointer. I think turning HDMI Link off fixed it. Will let you know if the issue resurfaces for any other reason.
-Jai


----------



## awayfromthelight

Dave Harper said:


> If I get another one I would love to update it and then compare to my HarperVision settings. It would make me very happy if manufacturers did some good updates to their HDR tone mapping on projectors!
> 
> In Bright Cinema mode the projector doesn't engage and roll in the built in P3 color filter. It is true that even without the filter the 5040's native panels can still get to about 87% of DCI-P3 gamut if I'm not mistaken.


Isn't that a big step down though? Bright Cinema getting ~87% of DCI-P3 (at 45.5% of CIE 1931) vs. whatever amount of Rec 2020 (at 75.8% of CIE)? Sounds like a lot, wondering when the human eye even starts to pick up the difference (among a ton of other factors). Sorry for the never-ending continuation of this question - still trying to wrap my head around all the gamuts and what these projectors are doing in terms of conversion (as far as I know only laser's can truly show Rec 2020 so I might be grasping at straws trying to get the best possible picture with what BC offers).


----------



## Theatre

Teremei said:


> Does anyone use an acoustically transparent screen with their epson? Could someone recommend a good one? If I want 120" (which I do) I will need a ceiling mounted ATS that can be pulled down in front of the TV and Speakers as opposed to hung on the back wall. Not enough room back there without the big RF-7's blocking it.





Dave Harper said:


> First thing to know is your budget range. I could quote you some nice Stewart screens, but if they're triple your budget it means nothing, haha!
> 
> Shoot me a PM for more personal assistance so we don't clog up this thread with screen talk.


I may not qualify for the exact same advice as I'm from Europe, but I am in the (almost) exact same position as Teremei as far as the screen is concerned, so I'd actually be grateful for some moderate clogging. Perhaps Teremei can report back with his findings when the dust settles.


----------



## MoFoHo

Hi everyone. Epson 9300 owner from the UK. I've been doing some testing today and hit a snag.
Has anybody encountered this strange diagonal herringbone pattern when displaying 3D Blu-ray?
I admit I don't even own any 3D glasses yet.
My source is the Sony UBP-X800, which displays 3D Blu-fine on my Panasonic VT30 btw.
I'm using the wireless connection, which has been absolutely rock solid for 4K UHD Blu-ray.
Any ideas?


----------



## Dominic Chan

MoFoHo said:


> Hi everyone. Epson 9300 owner from the UK. I've been doing some testing today and hit a snag.
> Has anybody encountered this strange diagonal herringbone pattern when displaying 3D Blu-ray?
> I admit I don't even own any 3D glasses yet.
> My source is the Sony UBP-X800, which displays 3D Blu-fine on my Panasonic VT30 btw.
> I'm using the wireless connection, which has been absolutely rock solid for 4K UHD Blu-ray.
> Any ideas?
> View attachment 2337442


Is this on an AT (acoustically transparent) screen?


----------



## MoFoHo

Dominic Chan said:


> Is this on an AT (acoustically transparent) screen?


I forgot to mention, no. It's not a perforated screen.

Also, I can 'force' the Epson to 2D mode, and the pattern disappears.


----------



## SALadder22FF

https://www.highdefdigest.com/news/...irmware-update-for-supported-projectors/40542

A handy little FAQ and download step by step for new firmware.

My USB will only format in exFAT. Will this work instead of FAT32?


----------



## old corps

SALadder22FF said:


> https://www.highdefdigest.com/news/...irmware-update-for-supported-projectors/40542
> 
> A handy little FAQ and download step by step for new firmware.
> 
> My USB will only format in exFAT. Will this work instead of FAT32?



Sorry I can't help you re. the USB but wanted to thank you for posting this. Appreciate it!


Ed


----------



## jwhn

awayfromthelight said:


> Isn't that a big step down though? Bright Cinema getting ~87% of DCI-P3 (at 45.5% of CIE 1931) vs. whatever amount of Rec 2020 (at 75.8% of CIE)? Sounds like a lot, wondering when the human eye even starts to pick up the difference (among a ton of other factors). Sorry for the never-ending continuation of this question - still trying to wrap my head around all the gamuts and what these projectors are doing in terms of conversion (as far as I know only laser's can truly show Rec 2020 so I might be grasping at straws trying to get the best possible picture with what BC offers).


I suggest reading this post. Ultimately, you will have to make a trade off between luminance and color gamut. The real big step down that you have with a projector trying to get HDR is the luminance. Hopefully this post will help you make the right choice for your situation. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-392.html#post55162546


----------



## old corps

Please take it easy on this old fart.......... WHERE do I find the HDR color modes???


THANKS!
Ed


----------



## seplant

MoFoHo said:


> Hi everyone. Epson 9300 owner from the UK. I've been doing some testing today and hit a snag.
> Has anybody encountered this strange diagonal herringbone pattern when displaying 3D Blu-ray?
> I admit I don't even own any 3D glasses yet.
> My source is the Sony UBP-X800, which displays 3D Blu-fine on my Panasonic VT30 btw.
> I'm using the wireless connection, which has been absolutely rock solid for 4K UHD Blu-ray.
> Any ideas?
> View attachment 2337442


Yes! I sometimes see exactly the same thing with my 6040! It seems to come and go, however. I am using a Panasonic UB900 player, and I am using a wired HDMI connection, as the 6040 does not do wireless.

I'll be getting a replacement projector from Epson next week due to my HDMI 1 input no longer working, so I'll watch for this pattern on the new projector as well.


----------



## old corps

old corps said:


> Please take it easy on this old fart.......... WHERE do I find the HDR color modes???
> 
> 
> THANKS!
> Ed



Ahhhh, think I found it! Dynamic Range under Advanced.


----------



## Mr.G

SALadder22FF said:


> https://www.highdefdigest.com/news/...irmware-update-for-supported-projectors/40542
> 
> A handy little FAQ and download step by step for new firmware.
> 
> My USB will only format in exFAT. Will this work instead of FAT32?


I'm pretty sure that Epson specifies FAT32 only. A few members who have attempted exFAT were unsuccessful.

http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf


----------



## Azekecse

Mr.G said:


> I'm pretty sure that Epson specifies FAT32 only. A few members who have attempted exFAT were unsuccessful.
> 
> http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf


It only worked on FAT32 format USB disc for me (Sandisk Extreme 3.0)...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## SALadder22FF

Yes I tried with exFAT and did not load. I changed USBs and used FAT32, worked like a charm.

Am using a Fury Linker on my X1X and tested it out on Gears 4. I did it during the day in a non blacked out room so difference wasn't as impactful as I thought.


----------



## BiggNewt

sddp said:


> OK thanks
> 
> That's a tough one. I have a Darbee Vision DVP-500S and on my PS4 with SW batterfront I using the Epson 5040S it did make a very noticeable difference (not night and day though). But unfortunately with a new Denon X6400H receiver and the XBOX 1X it won't work
> 
> Really bummed. So this Linker could be the alternative I am guessing.
> 
> HOWEVER.. here's the thing. Even though I al LOVING this Projector, there's soooooooo many limitations on it (I've read almost every post from day one here) with regards to 10bit, HDR, 4K, this, that. etc
> 
> I am pretty sure that the next model (well hoping) will be the next jump to true no hassle, no issue, no "this and that won't work"
> 
> And can finally just put in a 4K HDR disc and enjoy it with all it's glory with no con's attached and the Linker would be of no use.
> 
> I have so many devices in my signal chain already. Since the Darbee doesn't work with the Denon or the XB1X, I have it from the PS4 then to a 3D-Bee (a 3D up-converter) then to the Denon.
> 
> I think the New Darbee Vision 4K (if that ever comes out) will really take 4K to a whole new level


Unfortunately, every 4K enhancement projector under $5,000 is going to have some limitations.


----------



## BiggNewt

ed3120 said:


> I’m trying to gauge how much the 10 Gbps HDMI source limitation would affect me. I don’t own a PS4 or Xbox One, so gaming isn’t a problem. My main concern is that the majority of my 4K content will be from Amazon/Netflix/other streaming services on my nVidia Shield.
> 
> It will be a little annoying to constantly switch my Shield between 24hz/30hz/60hz, so I was wondering what framerate most of the shows are in these services.
> 
> 24Hz:
> 4K/HDR/24p movies and shows should be fine within the 5040UB’s limitations. Are the majority of the Amazon/Netflix original content TV series shown in 24p or are they higher?
> 
> 30Hz:
> Is 4K/HDR/30p content something that passes over the 5040UB wired inputs or the 5040UBE wireless inputs? Are there any shows in this format?
> 
> 60Hz:
> Obviously, 4K/HDR/60p content won’t fit inside the 10Gbps limit, but how much of the non-demo material really uses 60p? I know the TV demos that I find on YouTube use it, but after the initial “show off my new projector” period wears off, I probably won’t view many of these. How much Amazon/Netflix content could really be using this.
> 
> In short, outside of video games, do you find the 10 Gbps limitation a problem in real life usage, or is it just something that you find more annoying knowing that you can’t have it, even though you really don’t use it?


Set it at 24. 60 is mainly only for gaming. I have mine at 24 and haven't ran into any problems with content.


----------



## BiggNewt

Has anyone tried any new settings with HDR Mode 1 with the new firmware? It looks like they have tweaked that mode.


----------



## Brocuied

Juiced46 said:


> It is not night and day by any means. However it really brings out alot of detail going with HDR. I personally feel the upgrade is worth it. Some other users on here feel different, but I bet thwir calibrations are not so good. Ive been using the Linker for around a month or so. I removed it last night to see the difference in Pcars2 which ive been playing religously lately. The difference was enough for me to immediately plug the Linker back in. A few pages back I posted comparisons. They are cell phone pics, it doesnt do it justice as to how it looks in person. But to me, worth it.


Would you mind explaining your settings and setup for getting the HDFury Linker to allow HDR on the Xbox One? So far I've been unsuccessful getting it to enable. I currently have an HDFury Integral, so it should have the same necessary capabilities.

I'd appreciate as much information, assistance, pictures (etc.) you'd be willing or able to provide. I understand this may be a lot to ask for, so any assistance is appreciated. Thank you very much.


----------



## mase1981

Brocuied said:


> Would you mind explaining your settings and setup for getting the HDFury Linker to allow HDR on the Xbox One? So far I've been unsuccessful getting it to enable. I currently have an HDFury Integral, so it should have the same necessary capabilities.
> 
> I'd appreciate as much information, assistance, pictures (etc.) you'd be willing or able to provide. I understand this may be a lot to ask for, so any assistance is appreciated. Thank you very much.


check my signature


----------



## Brocuied

mase1981 said:


> check my signature


Thank you so much! I'll get working on it in the morning. Have a wonderful new year!


----------



## bezlar

Teremei said:


> Does anyone use an acoustically transparent screen with their epson? Could someone recommend a good one? If I want 120" (which I do) I will need a ceiling mounted ATS that can be pulled down in front of the TV and Speakers as opposed to hung on the back wall. Not enough room back there without the big RF-7's blocking it.




Seymour screens. Love mine. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

Juiced46 said:


> To get HDR and native 4K for gaming



Ahh..missed the SDR bit.


----------



## Viche

BiggNewt said:


> Unfortunately, every 4K enhancement projector under $5,000 is going to have some limitations.


True, and most people can except the majority of those limitations as they were advertised (faux k, limited brightness for HDR). The HDMI chipset limitation and its consequences were not advertised clearly and could have easily been avoided thereby preventing a large portion of complaints in this thread. It's the only reason I bought a TV instead of this projector. Hoping the 5045 addresses this.


----------



## BiggNewt

Viche said:


> True, and most people can except the majority of those limitations as they were advertised (faux k, limited brightness for HDR). The HDMI chipset limitation and its consequences were not advertised clearly and could have easily been avoided thereby preventing a large portion of complaints in this thread. It's the only reason I bought a TV instead of this projector. Hoping the 5045 addresses this.


I highly doubt it. Even the $5,000 true 4K Sony 285ES has hdmi bandwidth limitations.


----------



## Viche

BiggNewt said:


> I highly doubt it. Even the $5,000 true 4K Sony 285ES has hdmi bandwidth limitations.


As Dave Harper recently posted, that's due to processor speed issues on the Sony, not the HDMI chipset. It would probably be reasonably cheap to upgrade our chipset to higher bandwith which would solve the problem. Also, yesterday's $5000 projector is tomorrow's $3000 projector. Prices drop...technology becomes cheaper. Upgrading one part is not the same as jumping to a full 4k projector. I Was fine with the Epson's other limitations.


----------



## gene4ht

Teremei said:


> So I'm not an owner, but I hope I can ask a couple questions since I might end up with this or whatever new version replaces this some day. How many hours do you get per bulb, and how much does the replacement bulb cost?


This varies depending on projector type, lamp type, lamp operating mode (eco, med, high), and of course overall usage...typical is 3000 - 4000 hours.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projector-lamp-life.htm

From a cost perspective...again projector and lamp dependent....$200 - $500...typically $250 - $350...a little less when on sale.



Teremei said:


> Oh and I'm sorry one more. Can someone tell me what is the absolute best 3D glasses for this projector for comfort/brightness.


More information can be found in the dedicated 3D threads...a good start is this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html

And lastly, in terms of a projector and pull down screen (AT screen or otherwise)...this is an example of what you can expect in your future!

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...d-home-theater-version-1591.html#post55410868


----------



## jwhn

BiggNewt said:


> Has anyone tried any new settings with HDR Mode 1 with the new firmware? It looks like they have tweaked that mode.


Yes, check out this post for detailed analysis.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...pson-5040-6040-projectors-7.html#post55313526

Summary is that HDR is now brighter.


----------



## ayrton

BiggNewt said:


> Has anyone tried any new settings with HDR Mode 1 with the new firmware? It looks like they have tweaked that mode.


I did and it looks very good. I would agree that they tweaked it. Can't tell the difference between it and "Ultra Bright"


----------



## BiggNewt

ayrton said:


> I did and it looks very good. I would agree that they tweaked it. Can't tell the difference between it and "Ultra Bright"


Yea I went Bright Cinema with a slightly lower gamma and HDR Mode 1 and it looks outstanding...


----------



## SALadder22FF

Has anyone been able to get 4k HDR from DirecTV. Rose Parade was supposed to have it today but my Epson was showing SDR.

Also, what is the benefit of putting the Linker at the last step of the chain...going from reciever to projector vs just from X1X into reciever ?

Thx

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

5040/Sony X800 owner, curious other owners with the same combo in the X800 Video Setup YCbCr/RGB (HDMI) setup what do you have it set to? Options are Auto, YCbCr 4:2:2, YCbCr 4:4:4 and RGB.


----------



## tasoik

mase1981 said:


> check my signature


Just wondering. Is it worth HDR for gaming? Is it worth to buy HDfury only for gaming?
I mean differences are really noticeable or it is just a psychological satisfaction to see at the info "HDR" ?

In other words if it was a blind test could you tell the difference?


P.S. To my eyes the most noticeable difference of the projector is Image Enhancement (my favorite preset is No5) . In Off position you can easily ruin the picture, even a 4K movie looks like a DVD


----------



## PhenixS1970

inspector said:


> PM sent.


Thanks inspector 

Kind Regards,
Stef


----------



## wrunow

WynsWrld98 said:


> 5040/Sony X800 owner, curious other owners with the same combo in the X800 Video Setup YCbCr/RGB (HDMI) setup what do you have it set to? Options are Auto, YCbCr 4:2:2, YCbCr 4:4:4 and RGB.


Mine is set up as YCbCr 4:4:4.


----------



## JewDaddy

tasoik said:


> Just wondering. Is it worth HDR for gaming? Is it worth to buy HDfury only for gaming?
> 
> I mean differences are really noticeable or it is just a psychological satisfaction to see at the info "HDR" ?
> 
> 
> 
> In other words if it was a blind test could you tell the difference?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. To my eyes the most noticeable difference of the projector is Image Enhancement (my favorite preset is No5) . In Off position you can easily ruin the picture, even a 4K movie looks like a DVD




I bought a Linker and have now retired it. I don’t mind HDR on 4K blu rays but for the games I’ve tried on both the One X and PS4 Pro, it just really made the picture look dimmer and muted the colors. As soon as I turn HDR off, the colors pop again and the picture brightens up. 

I have to disagree with some of the claims on here with people saying that you do not get native 4K gaming with the One X unless you use the Linker. The projector under the info screen says 3840x2160 and it looks 10 times better than my original Xbox One looked. I believe I’m getting true 4K gaming because the clarity and sharpness look so good. And, when I tried the linker, I didn’t notice any difference in resolution looking better than when I wasn’t using it. The only difference I ever saw was when I enabled HDR with the Linker and it muted the picture. That’s just my take though...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

tasoik said:


> Just wondering. Is it worth HDR for gaming? Is it worth to buy HDfury only for gaming?
> I mean differences are really noticeable or it is just a psychological satisfaction to see at the info "HDR" ?
> 
> In other words if it was a blind test could you tell the difference?
> 
> 
> P.S. To my eyes the most noticeable difference of the projector is Image Enhancement (my favorite preset is No5) . In Off position you can easily ruin the picture, even a 4K movie looks like a DVD


It is worth it IMO. BUT you need to dial it in properly to your particular setup.



JewDaddy said:


> I bought a Linker and have now retired it. I don’t mind HDR on 4K blu rays but for the games I’ve tried on both the One X and PS4 Pro, it just really made the picture look dimmer and muted the colors. As soon as I turn HDR off, the colors pop again and the picture brightens up.
> 
> I have to disagree with some of the claims on here with people saying that you do not get native 4K gaming with the One X unless you use the Linker. The projector under the info screen says 3840x2160 and it looks 10 times better than my original Xbox One looked. I believe I’m getting true 4K gaming because the clarity and sharpness look so good. And, when I tried the linker, I didn’t notice any difference in resolution looking better than when I wasn’t using it. The only difference I ever saw was when I enabled HDR with the Linker and it muted the picture. That’s just my take though...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You colors didn't pop and the picture looked muted because you did not calibrate it properly. I am not quite sure what settings you used. I know we talked about it some pages back, but I do not remember. Did you use Harpervision? If so, that makes the games colors not pop and muted. Oledurts were better. I went with my own settings and the difference was night and day. When I first got the Linker, I experienced the same as you. I was a bit disappointed. I spent a little bit of time making some tweaks and now it looks way better then SDR with no Linker. 

You are getting upscaled 4K for sure. Set the Xboxs video display setting to "1080p"(see image below for the reason" not "4K UHD". Then load a 4K Enhanced game and look at the projector info. It will show you are 1080P. Your projector info will show 4K resolution in "4K UHD" mode because it is upscaling the image to 4K, when you select 4K UHD, EVERYTHING gets upscaled, even the dashboard, which is not 4K. You are seeing a difference over the old Xbox because the X games got enhanced versions, that is the only reason why you are seeing an "improvement". If you still have the Linker, I would suggest spending more time with it.

Here is the literature directly from Xbox Support about the 4K upscaling.


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> It is worth it IMO. BUT you need to dial it in properly to your particular setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You colors didn't pop and the picture looked muted because you did not calibrate it properly. I am not quite sure what settings you used. I know we talked about it some pages back, but I do not remember. Did you use Harpervision? If so, that makes the games colors not pop and muted. Oledurts were better. I went with my own settings and the difference was night and day. When I first got the Linker, I experienced the same as you. I was a bit disappointed. I spent a little bit of time making some tweaks and now it looks way better then SDR with no Linker.
> 
> 
> 
> You are getting upscaled 4K for sure. Set the Xboxs video display setting to "Auto" not "4K UHD". Then load a 4K Enhanced game and look at the projector info. It will show you are 1080P. Your projector info will show 4K resolution in "4K UHD" mode because it is upscaling the image to 4K, when you select 4K UHD, EVERYTHING gets upscaled, even the dashboard, which is not 4K. You are seeing a difference over the old Xbox because the X games got enhanced versions, that is the only reason why you are seeing an "improvement". If you still have the Linker, I would suggest spending more time with it.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the literature directly from Xbox Support about the 4K upscaling.




Is there anyway you can post your settings for 4K gaming? I would like to try exactly what you have and maybe do a couple of tweaks to suit my room and projector. I would be willing to give it another shot but the main issue I had was that no matter what, I can’t get 4K on my pc when using the Linker and that to me isn’t worth it. I’ve asked on this forum and the Linker forum and no one was able to help. Have you tried the Linker with a pc on the 5040? I couldn’t for the life of me get 4K with it. 

I’m also confused by your comment about setting the Xbox One X resolution to auto. I only have three options. 720, 1080 And 4K. Unless I’m doing something wrong, I don’t see auto. There’s an auto option under advanced settings and then tv connection. But that’s just for HDMI or DV connection. 

I’ve also played my Xbox One X on my 4K LG 27” Monitor and then also on my friends 4K E Series Vizio from last year that didn’t support HDR and they have the same checkmarks as the 5040 does. I really have a hard time believing that I’m not getting true 4K gaming on any of those displays......


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> Is there anyway you can post your settings for 4K gaming? I would like to try exactly what you have and maybe do a couple of tweaks to suit my room and projector. I would be willing to give it another shot but the main issue I had was that no matter what, I can’t get 4K on my pc when using the Linker and that to me isn’t worth it. I’ve asked on this forum and the Linker forum and no one was able to help. Have you tried the Linker with a pc on the 5040? I couldn’t for the life of me get 4K with it.
> 
> I’m also confused by your comment about setting the Xbox One X resolution to auto. I only have three options. 720, 1080 And 4K. Unless I’m doing something wrong, I don’t see auto. There’s an auto option under advanced settings and then tv connection. But that’s just for HDMI or DV connection.
> 
> I’ve also played my Xbox One X on my 4K LG 27” Monitor and then also on my friends 4K E Series Vizio from last year that didn’t support HDR and they have the same checkmarks as the 5040 does. I really have a hard time believing that I’m not getting true 4K gaming on any of those displays......
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry, I meant to go back and edit my post. I did not mean Auto, I meant to set it to 1080p. When you set it to 1080P, the Xbox automatically switches the resolution to the Native Resolution of the game. So if the games native resolution is 4K, it automatically switches to 4K. If you have the setting on 4K UHD, the system automatically forces EVERY game etc to 4K. Regardless if it is a 4K title or not.

I have no tried connecting it to a PC since I do not have any 4K PCs in my household. I wish I could help you there but I am of no use in that situation. 

When the X first came out. I set it to 1080p and the projector displayed all the enhanced games in 1080p, even though the "Advanced Screen" in the Xbox shows "4K gaming is possible" However, there have been some Xbox system updates and I have not tried it out since I installed the Linker right away. I will try tonight and remove the Linker and re-test. 

I will grab some screenshots of my settings and hopefully it helps you out. Its nothing spectacular, I did not use any sort of fancy calibration meter. Just trial and error until I got the picture to my liking. Heck, I run it on ECO mode for gaming and it still looks fantastic! 

As for your comments about the other displays. You do not need HDR to get 4K. Simple test. Set Xbox to 1080P. Load a 4K title. Check the info screen on your display. It will show what it is receiving. If you set it to 4K UHD, its always going to show 4K in the info screen because that is what the X is upscaling it too. Another test is to try a NON 4K title with the X in "4K UHD" mode. I bet your info screen will show 4K resolutions, because its upscaling. Very simple tests to try.....


----------



## NetViper

JewDaddy said:


> I bought a Linker and have now retired it. I don’t mind HDR on 4K blu rays but for the games I’ve tried on both the One X and PS4 Pro, it just really made the picture look dimmer and muted the colors. As soon as I turn HDR off, the colors pop again and the picture brightens up.
> 
> I have to disagree with some of the claims on here with people saying that you do not get native 4K gaming with the One X unless you use the Linker. The projector under the info screen says 3840x2160 and it looks 10 times better than my original Xbox One looked. I believe I’m getting true 4K gaming because the clarity and sharpness look so good. And, when I tried the linker, I didn’t notice any difference in resolution looking better than when I wasn’t using it. The only difference I ever saw was when I enabled HDR with the Linker and it muted the picture. That’s just my take though...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I’d say gears of war 4 is noticeably better with the linker and hdr. I certainly notice the banding on Forza 7 and a little on cod ww2. But overall I’d say it’s worth it.


----------



## Juiced46

NetViper said:


> I’d say gears of war 4 is noticeably better with the linker and hdr. I certainly notice the banding on Forza 7 and a little on cod ww2. But overall I’d say it’s worth it.


I have noticed a little banding at times as well. I guess that is the trade off of having to run 8 bit. 



JewDaddy said:


> Is there anyway you can post your settings for 4K gaming? I would like to try exactly what you have and maybe do a couple of tweaks to suit my room and projector. I would be willing to give it another shot but the main issue I had was that no matter what, I can’t get 4K on my pc when using the Linker and that to me isn’t worth it. I’ve asked on this forum and the Linker forum and no one was able to help. Have you tried the Linker with a pc on the 5040? I couldn’t for the life of me get 4K with it.


Ok, so here are a few examples of what I am talking about with upscaling. 

This image is with the Xbox in 1080P video mode with Forza 7. FM7 is a 4K enhanced title. No Linker is attached here. The Xbox should automatically switch to 4K since this is a native 4K title, however since the Epson cannot support a 4K/60 12 bit signal which the X sends out, this is what you get..... 1080P 12 bit SDR. If you set the Xbox to "4K UHD" It is just taking the 1080P signal and forcing it to upscale to 4K. If you were actually getting True Native 4K, the you would see a 4K resolution in the info screen with the Xbox set to 1080p











Next up, GTA. GTA is NOT a 4K enhanced game. I switched the Xbox to "4K UHD" mode. Look at the info screen, it shows its 4K, when the game obviously is not a 4K title. It is upscaling the game to 4K. 










With that being said. With the Linker installed and the Xbox set to 1080P, the Xbox works as it should now since we are tricking it with the Linker and 4K titles are output in Native 4K. You can verify what the Xbox is outputting if you power your Linker with your PC via USB with the HDMIs hooked to your source and display, it shows the resolution the system is outputting.

These are my HDR settings for GAMING ONLY!. Take it for what its worth. No special gamma settings, everything is pretty basic. I can probably tweak gamma a bit but I am quite happy with the detail of the blacks and what not. Colors look great, image is very bright and colors are not washed out. I forgot to check Color temp, but I believe it is set to 6.


----------



## xAzooz

*quick question and very important

is black level deep without auto iris ?

thx
*


----------



## LumensLover

xAzooz said:


> *quick question and very important
> 
> is black level deep without auto iris ?
> 
> thx
> *


No blacks were very bad in my opinion with the iris set to off. The Epson 5040ub has a low native contrast of around 6000 to 1. This is lower than the Sony HW45ES.


----------



## Dave Harper

JewDaddy said:


> I bought a Linker and have now retired it. I don’t mind HDR on 4K blu rays but for the games I’ve tried on both the One X and PS4 Pro, it just really made the picture look dimmer and muted the colors. As soon as I turn HDR off, the colors pop again and the picture brightens up.
> 
> I have to disagree with some of the claims on here with people saying that you do not get native 4K gaming with the One X unless you use the Linker. The projector under the info screen says 3840x2160 and it looks 10 times better than my original Xbox One looked. I believe I’m getting true 4K gaming because the clarity and sharpness look so good. And, when I tried the linker, I didn’t notice any difference in resolution looking better than when I wasn’t using it. The only difference I ever saw was when I enabled HDR with the Linker and it muted the picture. That’s just my take though...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



If it's as you say then I can't help but think you're not optimally calibrated for HDR. 



awayfromthelight said:


> Isn't that a big step down though? Bright Cinema getting ~87% of DCI-P3 (at 45.5% of CIE 1931) vs. whatever amount of Rec 2020 (at 75.8% of CIE)? Sounds like a lot, wondering when the human eye even starts to pick up the difference (among a ton of other factors). Sorry for the never-ending continuation of this question - still trying to wrap my head around all the gamuts and what these projectors are doing in terms of conversion (as far as I know only laser's can truly show Rec 2020 so I might be grasping at straws trying to get the best possible picture with what BC offers).



Yes it's a step down and that's why I use Digital Cinema to get the filter engaged for P3 colors and then apply HarperVision to tackle the HDR dimness issues. Although now I hear from you guys that they tweaked the FW to make HDR1 brighter. Those bastards stole my HarperVision, haha!!! 



WynsWrld98 said:


> 5040/Sony X800 owner, curious other owners with the same combo in the X800 Video Setup YCbCr/RGB (HDMI) setup what do you have it set to? Options are Auto, YCbCr 4:2:2, YCbCr 4:4:4 and RGB.



I would think YCbCr 4:2:2 would be best due to the limitations of the 5040's HDMI input, to get the bandwidth as low as possible on the input and just let the projector do the remaining upscaling. The HDR sources are only 4:2:0 10 Bit anyway.


----------



## JewDaddy

Dave Harper said:


> If it's as you say then I can't help but think you're not optimally calibrated for HDR.




Is it possible that maybe I have my SDR picture dialed in so saturated that when I finally see HDR, I think it doesn’t pop? I love the settings I have for SDR because the black levels look pretty deep and the colors pop off the screen. I like to think of myself as an AV Enthusiast but not the type who needs the most “ACCURATE” picture possible. I calibrate with my eyes and go by what looks good to me. I don’t calibrate with making sure colors are 100% accurate and I hit a certain part of a scale for each picture category. Lol. That’s my only guess right now. 

I would be willing to share my SDR Settings with someone so they can compare to an HDR picture with either Harpervision or Oledurts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> Sorry, I meant to go back and edit my post. I did not mean Auto, I meant to set it to 1080p. When you set it to 1080P, the Xbox automatically switches the resolution to the Native Resolution of the game. So if the games native resolution is 4K, it automatically switches to 4K. If you have the setting on 4K UHD, the system automatically forces EVERY game etc to 4K. Regardless if it is a 4K title or not.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no tried connecting it to a PC since I do not have any 4K PCs in my household. I wish I could help you there but I am of no use in that situation.
> 
> 
> 
> When the X first came out. I set it to 1080p and the projector displayed all the enhanced games in 1080p, even though the "Advanced Screen" in the Xbox shows "4K gaming is possible" However, there have been some Xbox system updates and I have not tried it out since I installed the Linker right away. I will try tonight and remove the Linker and re-test.
> 
> 
> 
> I will grab some screenshots of my settings and hopefully it helps you out. Its nothing spectacular, I did not use any sort of fancy calibration meter. Just trial and error until I got the picture to my liking. Heck, I run it on ECO mode for gaming and it still looks fantastic!
> 
> 
> 
> As for your comments about the other displays. You do not need HDR to get 4K. Simple test. Set Xbox to 1080P. Load a 4K title. Check the info screen on your display. It will show what it is receiving. If you set it to 4K UHD, its always going to show 4K in the info screen because that is what the X is upscaling it too. Another test is to try a NON 4K title with the X in "4K UHD" mode. I bet your info screen will show 4K resolutions, because its upscaling. Very simple tests to try.....




So let me make sure I understand correctly. In order to get true 4K gaming on the Xbox one X, we have to trick the Xbox into thinking that the 5040 supports 12 bit color at 4K resolutions? Why doesn’t the Xbox support 4K at 8 bit color like the PS4 pro? 

The other thing I was wondering is about setting the resolution to 4K UHD on the Xbox. What you said about setting the resolution to 1080p and then when a 4K enhanced game is played, the Xbox will automatically switch to 4K when using a Linker but will stay at 1080p without the Linker makes sense. What I’m curious about is how do you know for sure that by setting the Xbox to 4K UHD under resolution that it’s not actually in 4k but it’s upscaled. I think that’s where you’re losing me. Maybe because the 5040’s limitations with 4K, you have to set the Xbox to 4K in order to see true 4K gaming. By changing the resolution to 1080p and then having the Xbox automatically switch to 4K when playing an X enhanced game may not work properly on this projector. You just have to set the Xbox at 4K and keep it there. It even says under the settings that your display supports native 4K gaming. 

Also, what happens if you set color depth to 12 bit on the Xbox and then set the resolution to 1080p without the Linker. Will it still stay in 1080 or will it switch to 4K? Maybe all we need to do is tell the Xbox that the color is 12 bit in the settings....

Thanks for the pics. I’ll give your settings a try in HDR. The settings you didn’t include I was curious about are your color temperature settings and your RGCBYM colors. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## exm

JewDaddy said:


> Is it possible that maybe I have my SDR picture dialed in so saturated that when I finally see HDR, I think it doesn’t pop? I love the settings I have for SDR because the black levels look pretty deep and the colors pop off the screen. I like to think of myself as an AV Enthusiast but not the type who needs the most “ACCURATE” picture possible. I calibrate with my eyes and go by what looks good to me. I don’t calibrate with making sure colors are 100% accurate and I hit a certain part of a scale for each picture category. Lol. That’s my only guess right now.
> 
> I would be willing to share my SDR Settings with someone so they can compare to an HDR picture with either Harpervision or Oledurts.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can someone post HDR settings that work? I assume these can be stored in a memory, correct?


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> So let me make sure I understand correctly. In order to get true 4K gaming on the Xbox one X, we have to trick the Xbox into thinking that the 5040 supports 12 bit color at 4K resolutions? Why doesn’t the Xbox support 4K at 8 bit color like the PS4 pro?
> 
> The other thing I was wondering is about setting the resolution to 4K UHD on the Xbox. What you said about setting the resolution to 1080p and then when a 4K enhanced game is played, the Xbox will automatically switch to 4K when using a Linker but will stay at 1080p without the Linker makes sense. What I’m curious about is how do you know for sure that by setting the Xbox to 4K UHD under resolution that it’s not actually in 4k but it’s upscaled. I think that’s where you’re losing me. Maybe because the 5040’s limitations with 4K, you have to set the Xbox to 4K in order to see true 4K gaming. By changing the resolution to 1080p and then having the Xbox automatically switch to 4K when playing an X enhanced game may not work properly on this projector. You just have to set the Xbox at 4K and keep it there. It even says under the settings that your display supports native 4K gaming.
> 
> Also, what happens if you set color depth to 12 bit on the Xbox and then set the resolution to 1080p without the Linker. Will it still stay in 1080 or will it switch to 4K? Maybe all we need to do is tell the Xbox that the color is 12 bit in the settings....
> 
> Thanks for the pics. I’ll give your settings a try in HDR. The settings you didn’t include I was curious about are your color temperature settings and your RGCBYM colors.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 
I believe the Xbox does not output at 8 bit because of banding. 


You can tell its forcing it to upscale to 4K by just looking at the dashboard and going to the projector info screen. It states its in 4K when you have the display set to 4K UHD. It upscales everything. The dashboard is in 1080P native so it should never be in 4K.... That is how you know its being upscaled. Plus my GTA picture also proves this. 



If you set the X to 1080P 12 bit with no Linker. You get 1080p 12 bit. The Epson can handle this. It CANNOT handle 4K/60 12 bit. This is why we need to use the Linker to trick it and FORCE 8 bit. The X does not downgrade the signal to 8 bit that the Epson supports, most likely due to banding. 


You know with no Linker it is not in 4K for sure for multiple reasons. One Xbox clearly states that particular setting upscales everything. They also clearly state that 1080p will automatically switch to 4K. It does not switch to 4K because the signal is not supported by the Epson, it stays in 1080P. if the Epson supported it properly and the X talked with the Epson properly, 1080p would be switched automatically. 


When the Linker is installed. 1080P resolution is set on the X, it switches to native 4K just as Xbox states it does. You can also verify this with the Linker connected, you can watch it switch from 1080p to 4K. Where as if you have it in upscale mode, it just forces it to be upscaled all the time. 


My color temp is 6 and I did not touch any RGB settings. 






exm said:


> Can someone post HDR settings that work? I assume these can be stored in a memory, correct?


You have 10 memory slots to make saves. There are tons of posts about HDR settings in this thread. Adjust accordingly to your particular application


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> I believe the Xbox does not output at 8 bit because of banding.
> 
> 
> You can tell its forcing it to upscale to 4K by just looking at the dashboard and going to the projector info screen. It states its in 4K when you have the display set to 4K UHD. It upscales everything. The dashboard is in 1080P native so it should never be in 4K.... That is how you know its being upscaled. Plus my GTA picture also proves this.




Well that makes sense. I’m still not 100% sold that it’s not 4K but it sounds like you’ve ran many tests and studied up on it. Ok so because my PS4 pro will output in native 4K without any upscaling issues like the Xbox and my pc will do native 4K without any issues, I could essentially use the Linker on the One X only and choose whether or not to display HDR but at least get native 4K gaming?

Also, are you using those same settings with 4K HDR movies or is it that just with games? Do you even utilize HDR when watching movies or do you go the Harpervision route?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> Well that makes sense. I’m still not 100% sold that it’s not 4K but it sounds like you’ve ran many tests and studied up on it. Ok so because my PS4 pro will output in native 4K without any upscaling issues like the Xbox and my pc will do native 4K without any issues, I could essentially use the Linker on the One X only and choose whether or not to display HDR but at least get native 4K gaming?
> 
> Also, are you using those same settings with 4K HDR movies or is it that just with games? Do you even utilize HDR when watching movies or do you go the Harpervision route?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


As stated before. If you were getting Native 4K. You should be able to set the X to 1080p and it will automatically switch it. Which it doesnt.

The HDR settings I posted are for gaming only. I use a tweaked version of Harpervision or Oledurts settings for HDR movies. 

I will test the Pro, but I believe the Pro is also upscaling to 4K. The only thing the Pro does better is , without a Linker you can do 1080p HDR which the X will not do.


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> As stated before. If you were getting Native 4K. You should be able to set the X to 1080p and it will automatically switch it. Which it doesnt.
> 
> 
> 
> The HDR settings I posted are for gaming only. I use a tweaked version of Harpervision or Oledurts settings for HDR movies.
> 
> 
> 
> I will test the Pro, but I believe the Pro is also upscaling to 4K. The only thing the Pro does better is , without a Linker you can do 1080p HDR which the X will not do.




So besides the HDR on the One X, were you able to notice a difference in resolution, clarity, or sharpness looking better with the Linker as opposed to without? I ask because even IF the One X is not outputting true native 4K on an enhanced game and is upscaling, maybe it’s so good that it doesn’t make a difference enough visually to be able to tell....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> So besides the HDR on the One X, were you able to notice a difference in resolution, clarity, or sharpness looking better with the Linker as opposed to without? I ask because even IF the One X is not outputting true native 4K on an enhanced game and is upscaling, maybe it’s so good that it doesn’t make a difference enough visually to be able to tell....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I can tell the difference. If you look some pages back where I did comparison shots, you can really see the difference in the Project cars 2 compare that I did. Also if you look a few posts back where i mentioned I took the Linker off. I immediately noticed a difference for the worse and put the Linker back on. I took it off because I was trying to figure out a color issue in 1 game and it ended up being a bug in the game causing it. Thats a whole different conversation though.

Plug your Linker back in and give it a shot for yourself. Make sjre you are adjusting the HDR sliders IN GAME for each game. All HDR games on the X have their own built in sliders as well


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> I can tell the difference. If you look some pages back where I did comparison shots, you can really see the difference in the Project cars 2 compare that I did. Also if you look a few posts back where i mentioned I took the Linker off. I immediately noticed a difference for the worse and put the Linker back on. I took it off because I was trying to figure out a color issue in 1 game and it ended up being a bug in the game causing it. Thats a whole different conversation though.
> 
> 
> 
> Plug your Linker back in and give it a shot for yourself. Make sjre you are adjusting the HDR sliders IN GAME for each game. All HDR games on the X have their own built in sliders as well




I’ll give it a shot and let you know what I find. I personally don’t remember seeing a visual difference when playing Gears of War 4, AC Origins and Rise of the Tomb Raider. But I was more focused on the HDR aspect. The only reason I didn’t believe the PS4 pro was upscaling is because I have the resolution set to automatic and it showed 3840x2160 in the Projector info screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

exm said:


> Can someone post HDR settings that work? I assume these can be stored in a memory, correct?



Try my HarperVision settings that are listed below my signature. You may have to use a PC browser to see it. 

I'm now wondering if maybe the settings I linked and the one people are using and discussing is my older version or the newer ones that I updated when I did a final calibration for sale (and forgot to save the CMS settings!  )



JewDaddy said:


> Is it possible that maybe I have my SDR picture dialed in so saturated that when I finally see HDR, I think it doesn’t pop? I love the settings I have for SDR because the black levels look pretty deep and the colors pop off the screen. I like to think of myself as an AV Enthusiast but not the type who needs the most “ACCURATE” picture possible. I calibrate with my eyes and go by what looks good to me. I don’t calibrate with making sure colors are 100% accurate and I hit a certain part of a scale for each picture category. Lol. That’s my only guess right now.
> 
> I would be willing to share my SDR Settings with someone so they can compare to an HDR picture with either Harpervision or Oledurts.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



It sounds to me like you're trying to compare the true "dim" version of HDR on these that everyone complains about, or used to before the new FW apparently. This will result in low white and color lumens on projectors like this, so if you don't compensate with settings like myself and Oledurt offer, then it will look washed out and dim like you're saying. You have to remember to boost up things like color, contrast, CMS, etc. along with the custom gamma curves and switching to SDR while feeding it HDR. Have you done that, or tried my settings or Oledurt's?


----------



## JewDaddy

Dave Harper said:


> It sounds to me like you're trying to compare the true "dim" version of HDR on these that everyone complains about, or used to before the new FW apparently. This will result in low white and color lumens on projectors like this, so if you don't compensate with settings like myself and Oledurt offer, then it will look washed out and dim like you're saying. You have to remember to boost up things like color, contrast, CMS, etc. along with the custom gamma curves and switching to SDR while feeding it HDR. Have you done that, or tried my settings or Oledurt's?




I’ve tried yours with 4K movies and it did look good. Haven’t tried with games. Not sure why..... Lol

I’ll give it a try once I hook the Linker back up and see how they do with games. Especially now that this new firmware supposedly makes HDR brighter. Haven’t tried HDR since I updated the firmware. I’ll report back and let you guys know. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xAzooz

LumensLover said:


> No blacks were very bad in my opinion with the iris set to off. The Epson 5040ub has a low native contrast of around 6000 to 1. This is lower than the Sony HW45ES.


you just killed me : (

but i see reviews and its deep black without auto iris

this review with epson 5200 and i think 5300 better Here
if that how balcks look like or better i am very convinced
you are talking with someone using tw5300 ( 2040ub )


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> I’ve tried yours with 4K movies and it did look good. Haven’t tried with games. Not sure why..... Lol
> 
> I’ll give it a try once I hook the Linker back up and see how they do with games. Especially now that this new firmware supposedly makes HDR brighter. Haven’t tried HDR since I updated the firmware. I’ll report back and let you guys know. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good luck, I hope it works out for you. Here is the comparison of Upscaled 4K no HDR (No Linker) to 4K/HDR (with Linker)


NO LINKER










WITH LINKER










I rest my case


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> Good luck, I hope it works out for you. Here is the comparison of Upscaled 4K no HDR (No Linker) to 4K/HDR (with Linker)



Point proven!!!! Lol

Looking forward to trying again 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

More info on the 1.11 firmware update.

It basically says that Epson added a new brighter HDR mode that is in the Auto (Bright) slot and all the previous HDR modes shift down a slot. So if you were happy with your previous settings (e.g, using Oledurt's settings that were calibrated on firmware 1.10) you should be able to put the projector into HDR2 and get the same results, in theory (if I am following the somewhat confusing article correctly). I haven't tested it but thought it might be of interest...

The key excerpt:

"As a result, what was HDR 2, on the new Firmware is now HDR 3. the former (Bright) HDR 1, is now labeled HDR 2, and there’s a new, even brighter mode – naturally labeled HDR 1, and called by Epson: Brightest."

https://www.projectorreviews.com/th...040-pc6040ub-projectors-end-user-hdr-upgrade/


----------



## siuengr

mase1981 said:


> check my signature


Do you still get 4k60 10 or 12 bit from the Xbox after the 1.11 update? I had everything working with the Xbox and Linker. It was working for a few weeks, but then one day my my screen went black when it was set to 4k60 10 bit on the xbox. I didn't change anything in my setup except update the Epson firmware. The linker says that is it converting it to 8 bit, but I get no picture, but the audio still works. I don't think it is an Xbox issue. I get the same black screen if I set the Roku or Shield to 4k60 10 bit. I've checked all the Linker settings you posted and they are correct. I'm just trying to figure out what to troubleshoot next. I've been working on it for a couple days and can't figure it out. It's frustrating because it was all working.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Juiced46 said:


> Good luck, I hope it works out for you. Here is the comparison of Upscaled 4K no HDR (No Linker) to 4K/HDR (with Linker)
> 
> 
> NO LINKER
> 
> 
> 
> WITH LINKER
> 
> 
> 
> I rest my case


Do you see banding with 8bit hdr ?
does linker work with PS4 Pro too forcing 4k HDR ?
thx


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

jwhn said:


> More info on the 1.11 firmware update.
> 
> It basically says that Epson added a new brighter HDR mode that is in the Auto (Bright) slot and all the previous HDR modes shift down a slot. So if you were happy with your previous settings (e.g, using Oledurt's settings that were calibrated on firmware 1.10) you should be able to put the projector into HDR2 and get the same results, in theory (if I am following the somewhat confusing article correctly). I haven't tested it but thought it might be of interest...
> 
> The key excerpt:
> 
> "As a result, what was HDR 2, on the new Firmware is now HDR 3. the former (Bright) HDR 1, is now labeled HDR 2, and there’s a new, even brighter mode – naturally labeled HDR 1, and called by Epson: Brightest."
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/th...040-pc6040ub-projectors-end-user-hdr-upgrade/


If you were using previously HDR1 you should put it to HDR Auto which defaults to former HDR1 (not "auto bright" as this is now new and the brightest mode)


----------



## ANDYK48

Dave,


Can you please give us your Harpervision setttings for Bright Cinema Mode as well ?
I have tried your Digital Cinema Mode settings for HDR and I really like them.
I just want to see how the Bright Cinema Mode will look like 
I have noticed several messages back that you posted the Gamma settings for the Bright Cinema Mode but not the other settings.
Please if you have time can you post the whole settings for this mode.
Thanks a lot.


Andreas


----------



## jwhn

MartyMcFlyy said:


> If you were using previously HDR1 you should put it to HDR Auto which defaults to former HDR1 (not "auto bright" as this is now new and the brightest mode)



Yes, thanks for clarifying. Auto defaults to HDR2 which is the slot for what was previously HDR1. I tested it and worked as the article states.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Do you see banding with 8bit hdr ?
> does linker work with PS4 Pro too forcing 4k HDR ?
> thx



I see a little banding at times. Nothing that is terrible though. Linker works with the Pro and 4K HDR. Ibplay alot of GT Sport and it looks fantastic. I will post pictures later


----------



## jsrdlr

Just had our bulb on the 6040ub go out at under 800 hours. Anyone else experience this? Is there any kind of warranty on the bulb? I'll be putting in the spare today bulb today.


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> Good luck, I hope it works out for you. Here is the comparison of Upscaled 4K no HDR (No Linker) to 4K/HDR (with Linker)



Hey man! So I have been playing around with the Linker and hdr again. Had some very interesting findings this time around. I saved your hdr gaming picture settings as one of my memory slots, then I saved another memory with your hdr gaming settings but tweaked to my eyes and the content I was seeing at the time. I then turned HDR off within the game and compared to SDR with my digital cinema settings. 

The biggest surprise was how much brighter HDR is now with the newest firmware update. I could definitely tell a difference. The other surprise and I hope you don’t take offense because we both know different environment and different projectors will not be the same for Settings, is that your hdr game Settings seemed to be very overexposed with the white details and lacking in the black level department. I’ve only tested with one game so far and I can’t completely base it off this one test but the mountains covered in snow with Horizon Zero Dawn had almost no detail because the brightness and contrast killed the details in white scenes. And overall it just didn’t have much depth to the picture. I made some adjustments and this is honestly the first time I feel like HDR looked better than SDR. I will post pics very shortly. 

Thanks again for your help and posting your settings to help get me on the right track. I would really like to get your opinion on seeing your settings compared with my custom version of your settings and then with my SDR settings. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

jsrdlr said:


> Just had our bulb on the 6040ub go out at under 800 hours. Anyone else experience this? Is there any kind of warranty on the bulb? I'll be putting in the spare today bulb today.


 
I believe there is a 60 or 90 day bulb warranty. If you are outside that period, I would call Epson anyway. I had success with a 1 yr old bulb that blew at 900 hours. They sent me a new one. Its worth a shot



JewDaddy said:


> Hey man! So I have been playing around with the Linker and hdr again. Had some very interesting findings this time around. I saved your hdr gaming picture settings as one of my memory slots, then I saved another memory with your hdr gaming settings but tweaked to my eyes and the content I was seeing at the time. I then turned HDR off within the game and compared to SDR with my digital cinema settings.
> 
> The biggest surprise was how much brighter HDR is now with the newest firmware update. I could definitely tell a difference. The other surprise and I hope you don’t take offense because we both know different environment and different projectors will not be the same for Settings, is that your hdr game Settings seemed to be very overexposed with the white details and lacking in the black level department. I’ve only tested with one game so far and I can’t completely base it off this one test but the mountains covered in snow with Horizon Zero Dawn had almost no detail because the brightness and contrast killed the details in white scenes. And overall it just didn’t have much depth to the picture. I made some adjustments and this is honestly the first time I feel like HDR looked better than SDR. I will post pics very shortly.
> 
> Thanks again for your help and posting your settings to help get me on the right track. I would really like to get your opinion on seeing your settings compared with my custom version of your settings and then with my SDR settings.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 
No offense taken as I understand our setups are different. I am not sure what your room is like but. My main seat position is 12ft from the screen, my throw distance is around 9 feet with a 100" screen. My room is 100% light controlled with pitch black walls and ceiling. 


Another thing, did you adjust the GAMES HDR levels and brightness?


When comparing SDR to HDR images, I remove the Linker and reboot the game. I just do not switch the Epson to "SDR" because it is still being sent an HDR signal. I am not sure if this is how you compared or not. 


Send me your custom settings and I will try it on my Epson tonight. I have a very good picture with a white background from GT Sport I will post when I get out of work where you can see the detail very well.


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> No offense taken as I understand our setups are different. I am not sure what your room is like but. My main seat position is 12ft from the screen, my throw distance is around 9 feet with a 100" screen. My room is 100% light controlled with pitch black walls and ceiling.
> 
> 
> Another thing, did you adjust the GAMES HDR levels and brightness?
> 
> 
> When comparing SDR to HDR images, I remove the Linker and reboot the game. I just do not switch the Epson to "SDR" because it is still being sent an HDR signal. I am not sure if this is how you compared or not.
> 
> 
> Send me your custom settings and I will try it on my Epson tonight. I have a very good picture with a white background from GT Sport I will post when I get out of work where you can see the detail very well.




Ok cool. Some people get very defensive with their settings and I didn’t want to offend. 

I also have my projector in a 100% light controlled room with a black ceiling and the back walls where my screen is are also painted black. I believe my projector is between 17-18 ft back from the screen sitting on a shelf I installed. It’s projecting onto a 120” standard elite screen, nothing fancy and my main seating position is about 12 ft from the screen. 

When I played Horizon Zero Dawn on my PS4 Pro, I didn’t notice any HDR settings to adjust. The only thing you can adjust picture wise is brightness but that’s just the overall standard brightness, not HDR brightness like in some other games. 

One thing I didn’t do was remove the Linker and reboot the game when I switched to SDR. I just turned off the HDR within the game and had it switch back to SDR. Are you saying that even if I turn HDR off within the game that it’s still trying to send HDR?

Here are the pics of what I was seeing with your settings and with my custom version of your settings. Again, I’ve only tried this with Horizon Zero Dawn and haven’t even touched my One X yet. 

Juiced HDR Game Settings









Custom Juiced HDR Settings









Juiced HDR Game Settings 









Custom Juiced HDR Settings












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Here are a couple more pics from Horizon Zero Dawn. 

Juiced HDR Game Settings









Juiced Custom HDR Game Settings









Now, in this next pic, I’m going to show how much of a difference the HDMI video range affects the overall picture quality. 

Here is the first pic with Juiced HDR Game Settings with the HDMI Video Range set to Expanded









Same settings except all I changed was the HDMI Range from Expanded to Normal









And lastly, here are my custom Juiced HDR Game Settings which has the HDMI Range set to Normal as well. 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

One more comparison shot

Juiced HDR Game Settings









Custom Juiced HDR Game Settings









Custom Juiced HDR Game Settings with HDMI Range set to Expanded










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Uncharted 4 PS4 Pro Pics. Quick note, I’m editing this post because I decided to come up with my own Digital Cinema Settings for HDR Gaming. Something didn’t quite look right when I fired up Uncharted 4. I dialed in some Digital Cinema Settings and I have to say that my jaw almost dropped to the floor. Lol. Let me know what you guys think. I only have a pic of the Digital cinema settings for the last picture. 

Juiced HDR Game Settings









Custom Juiced HDR Game Settings









Juiced HDR Game Settings









Custom Juiced HDR Game Settings









Custom JewDaddy Digital Cinema HDR Game










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

ANDYK48 said:


> Dave,
> 
> 
> Can you please give us your Harpervision setttings for Bright Cinema Mode as well ?
> I have tried your Digital Cinema Mode settings for HDR and I really like them.
> I just want to see how the Bright Cinema Mode will look like
> I have noticed several messages back that you posted the Gamma settings for the Bright Cinema Mode but not the other settings.
> Please if you have time can you post the whole settings for this mode.
> Thanks a lot.
> 
> 
> Andreas



I'm sorry, but it's been so long since I made that Bright Cinema Setting and I have no idea where to find anything more than what is already here in this thread. I haven't had a 5040 in awhile, so there's no way to do it now. I think What I did was take Oledurt's settings and tweak them slightly for my room and tastes. His are a great starting point you should try. 

Those other settings are more setup dependent anyway, so set the gamma as a baseline and then use a calibration disc/files to perfect it and to set the other settings properly.


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> Ok cool. Some people get very defensive with their settings and I didn’t want to offend.
> 
> I also have my projector in a 100% light controlled room with a black ceiling and the back walls where my screen is are also painted black. I believe my projector is between 17-18 ft back from the screen sitting on a shelf I installed. It’s projecting onto a 120” standard elite screen, nothing fancy and my main seating position is about 12 ft from the screen.
> 
> When I played Horizon Zero Dawn on my PS4 Pro, I didn’t notice any HDR settings to adjust. The only thing you can adjust picture wise is brightness but that’s just the overall standard brightness, not HDR brightness like in some other games.
> 
> One thing I didn’t do was remove the Linker and reboot the game when I switched to SDR. I just turned off the HDR within the game and had it switch back to SDR. Are you saying that even if I turn HDR off within the game that it’s still trying to send HDR?
> 
> Here are the pics of what I was seeing with your settings and with my custom version of your settings. Again, I’ve only tried this with Horizon Zero Dawn and haven’t even touched my One X yet.


Your pictures look very good. Expanded works good for me in my setup and is not blown out like pictured in your pictures. Yours look very good and I hope that is what you are looking for. 

As far as shutting HDR off. I have no games that I can shut HDR off within the game. When you shut it off, does the projecter lose signal briefly and switch to SDR? If you do not briefly lose signal, its not switching to SDR. You can also check in the info menu if it switched. If it shows SDR great, then it is working. The games I did comparisons on, I had to quit the game. Remove the Linker to go back to SDR. 

If you are indeed receiving and HDR signal and just switch in the projector menus to SDR, that is not a fair comparison. Just check the projector menu when you shut HDR off in game. 

This is a picture of GT Sport. White detail to me looks very good. You can see some banding in this picture. My phone seemed to exaggerate the banding a little.


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> Your pictures look very good. Expanded works good for me in my setup and is not blown out like pictured in your pictures. Yours look very good and I hope that is what you are looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> As far as shutting HDR off. I have no games that I can shut HDR off within the game. When you shut it off, does the projecter lose signal briefly and switch to SDR? If you do not briefly lose signal, its not switching to SDR. You can also check in the info menu if it switched. If it shows SDR great, then it is working. The games I did comparisons on, I had to quit the game. Remove the Linker to go back to SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are indeed receiving and HDR signal and just switch in the projector menus to SDR, that is not a fair comparison. Just check the projector menu when you shut HDR off in game.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a picture of GT Sport. White detail to me looks very good. You can see some banding in this picture. My phone seemed to exaggerate the banding a little.




Very odd that Expanded looks so different on both our setups. I’m wondering if maybe it has to do with a video setting in the PS4 itself..? I keep my RGB Range on automatic. Is that what you have yours set on or do you use Limited or Full?

In Horizon Zero Dawn and Uncharted 4, they both have a setting to turn HDR on and off. The video signal blanks out for about 3-4 seconds and then comes back. I also verified that the projector was receiving an SDR picture when I turned HDR off in the game. 

I would be interested for you to try both my bright cinema settings and Digital Cinema to see what it looks like on your setup. 

The pics of GT Sport look beautiful and not overexposed at all!! Very nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

Need some help deciding if I should sell my HDfury Integral. After the firmware update 1.11 and the purchase of a Panamax 5300 I no longer feel I need it. 

To me I thought the integral did a great job on cleaning up the noise on my picture a bit. Bought the Panamax and to my eyes the picture is very clean. 

Thoughts? Any reason why I should keep it for use with my 5040?


----------



## Viche

JewDaddy said:


> Very odd that Expanded looks so different on both our setups. I’m wondering if maybe it has to do with a video setting in the PS4 itself..? I keep my RGB Range on automatic. Is that what you have yours set on or do you use Limited or Full?
> 
> In Horizon Zero Dawn and Uncharted 4, they both have a setting to turn HDR on and off. The video signal blanks out for about 3-4 seconds and then comes back. I also verified that the projector was receiving an SDR picture when I turned HDR off in the game.
> 
> I would be interested for you to try both my bright cinema settings and Digital Cinema to see what it looks like on your setup.
> 
> The pics of GT Sport look beautiful and not overexposed at all!! Very nice
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm thinking the auto RGB setting on the PS4 is causing a mismatch. One sort of mismatch causes the picture to be washed out as with your juiced settings and the other causes it to crush shadow details as in your last horizon shot. Either that or Juiced has a mismatch and calibrated to that.


----------



## robc1976

rupedogg24 said:


> Need some help deciding if I should sell my HDfury Integral. After the firmware update 1.11 and the purchase of a Panamax 5300 I no longer feel I need it.
> 
> To me I thought the integral did a great job on cleaning up the noise on my picture a bit. Bought the Panamax and to my eyes the picture is very clean.
> 
> Thoughts? Any reason why I should keep it for use with my 5040?


 Panamax is the best I have used hands down

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> I'm sorry, but it's been so long since I made that Bright Cinema Setting and I have no idea where to find anything more than what is already here in this thread. I haven't had a 5040 in awhile, so there's no way to do it now. I think What I did was take Oledurt's settings and tweak them slightly for my room and tastes. His are a great starting point you should try.
> 
> Those other settings are more setup dependent anyway, so set the gamma as a baseline and then use a calibration disc/files to perfect it and to set the other settings properly.


Dave, I may get another 5040ub for upstairs...if I do are you interested in me just sending the new one to you? You then have a unit to play with...when done send it back? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> Your pictures look very good. Expanded works good for me in my setup and is not blown out like pictured in your pictures. Yours look very good and I hope that is what you are looking for.
> 
> As far as shutting HDR off. I have no games that I can shut HDR off within the game. When you shut it off, does the projecter lose signal briefly and switch to SDR? If you do not briefly lose signal, its not switching to SDR. You can also check in the info menu if it switched. If it shows SDR great, then it is working. The games I did comparisons on, I had to quit the game. Remove the Linker to go back to SDR.
> 
> If you are indeed receiving and HDR signal and just switch in the projector menus to SDR, that is not a fair comparison. Just check the projector menu when you shut HDR off in game.
> 
> This is a picture of GT Sport. White detail to me looks very good. You can see some banding in this picture. My phone seemed to exaggerate the banding a little.


That looks maybe to much color saturation? Deatail, contrast and black levels look good

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

To JewDaddy and Juiced46:

Thank you SOOOOO much for taking the time (pics, details, info, etc) to post all of this info regarding the linker, 5040, and XB1X.


I believe I speak on behalf of a ton of people around the world (either part of AVS or just searching this specific info) who can truly benefit from your time explaining all of this in such detail.


You guys are awesome!


----------



## Dave Harper

robc1976 said:


> Dave, I may get another 5040ub for upstairs...if I do are you interested in me just sending the new one to you? You then have a unit to play with...when done send it back?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


OK, that sounds like it could work. Send me a quick PM, I have some ideas to get this done cheaply and in the most efficient way. Not just for you but anyone who may want one or wants to do this.


----------



## Dave Harper

JewDaddy said:


> *Very odd that Expanded looks so different on both our setups.* I’m wondering if maybe it has to do with a video setting in the PS4 itself..? I keep my RGB Range on automatic. Is that what you have yours set on or do you use Limited or Full?
> 
> In Horizon Zero Dawn and Uncharted 4, they both have a setting to turn HDR on and off. The video signal blanks out for about 3-4 seconds and then comes back. I also verified that the projector was receiving an SDR picture when I turned HDR off in the game.
> 
> I would be interested for you to try both my bright cinema settings and Digital Cinema to see what it looks like on your setup.
> 
> The pics of GT Sport look beautiful and not overexposed at all!! Very nice
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You guys do realize that when you switch from Limited (usually video levels 16-235 for 8 bit) to Full/Expanded (usually PC levels 0-255 for 8 bit), that you have to recalibrate both black (brightness) and white (contrast)? Plus, you have to make sure the source is also sending the same levels that you set your display to display. That is probably why you're showing differences. JewDaddy, did you recalibrate your levels using reference black and white PLUGE patterns?


----------



## JewDaddy

Dave Harper said:


> You guys do realize that when you switch from Limited (usually video levels 16-235 for 8 bit) to Full/Expanded (usually PC levels 0-255 for 8 bit), that you have to recalibrate both black (brightness) and white (contrast)? Plus, you have to make sure the source is also sending the same levels that you set your display to display. That is probably why you're showing differences. JewDaddy, did you recalibrate your levels using reference black and white PLUGE patterns?




That’s what I was thinking. I either need to set my PS4 to Limited or Full. I’m thinking I want to keep it on Full and see how that works. 

Kind of embarrassed to say but I didn’t use any patterns..... I was adjusting based off a couple games and finally got both Bright Cinema and Digital Cinema dialed in. I know that’s like the number one rule for AV Enthusiasts to calibrate properly with patterns. Lol

Once I went back and forth on my Pro and One X, I came to a very satisfied picture for Bright And Digital Cinema. Overall, I prefer Digital Cinema because the colors look so much better. The contrast especially in scenes with clouds or snow such as Horizon Zero Dawn, the contrast is just a tad overexposed and blown out but I can’t go any lower than 45 Contrast in Digital Cinema or the picture will start to dim too much. If anyone is interested in trying my settings I would love some feedback. 

Btw, LA Noire and Gears 4 on the One X looked ridiculously good in HDR. I can’t believe how much of a difference this recent firmware update has made with HDR Gaming


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

JewDaddy said:


> ......Once I went back and forth on my Pro and One X, I came to a very satisfied picture for Bright And Digital Cinema. Overall, I prefer Digital Cinema because the colors look so much better. .....


That is due to the P3 color filter that rolls into place when in Digital Cinema Mode. This is why I prefer that mode when I setup and used HarperVision on this projector.


----------



## JewDaddy

Dave Harper said:


> That is due to the P3 color filter that rolls into place when in Digital Cinema Mode. This is why I prefer that mode when I setup and used HarperVision on this projector.




I totally get that now. I think the overall lower brightness of Digital Cinema is worth the trade off for better colors. Crazy to think I’ve had this projector since it was released September of 2016 and I’m just now getting to understand and take advantage of the picture benefits this has to offer. 

I’m curious if anyone has heard whether or not Epson will be releasing a follow up to the 5040 this year. Maybe a 5050? Two things I would love to see in the next Projector is an 18gbs HDMI without all these limitations we’re experiencing with this model and my biggest hope..... FI in 4K! It kills me to not be able to use Frame Interpolation when watching 4K movies. I keep wondering with all these firmware updates Epson has released such as brighter HDR and supposed improved 3D performance, can or will they release FI for 4K?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

JewDaddy said:


> I totally get that now. I think the overall lower brightness of Digital Cinema is worth the trade off for better colors. Crazy to think I’ve had this projector since it was released September of 2016 and I’m just now getting to understand and take advantage of the picture benefits this has to offer.
> 
> I’m curious if anyone has heard whether or not Epson will be releasing a follow up to the 5040 this year. Maybe a 5050? Two things I would love to see in the next Projector is an 18gbs HDMI without all these limitations we’re experiencing with this model and my biggest hope..... FI in 4K! It kills me to not be able to use Frame Interpolation when watching 4K movies. I keep wondering with all these firmware updates Epson has released such as brighter HDR and supposed improved 3D performance, can or will they release FI for 4K?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> That’s what I was thinking. I either need to set my PS4 to Limited or Full. I’m thinking I want to keep it on Full and see how that works.
> 
> Kind of embarrassed to say but I didn’t use any patterns..... I was adjusting based off a couple games and finally got both Bright Cinema and Digital Cinema dialed in. I know that’s like the number one rule for AV Enthusiasts to calibrate properly with patterns. Lol
> 
> Once I went back and forth on my Pro and One X, I came to a very satisfied picture for Bright And Digital Cinema. Overall, I prefer Digital Cinema because the colors look so much better. The contrast especially in scenes with clouds or snow such as Horizon Zero Dawn, the contrast is just a tad overexposed and blown out but I can’t go any lower than 45 Contrast in Digital Cinema or the picture will start to dim too much. If anyone is interested in trying my settings I would love some feedback.
> 
> Btw, LA Noire and Gears 4 on the One X looked ridiculously good in HDR. I can’t believe how much of a difference this recent firmware update has made with HDR Gaming
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am glad you are now enjoying both systems and utilizing the Linker. I can see how people when they first installed it got upset it did not look that great and sort of wrote it off. The Firmware helped, but even before that with a little bit of time making some tweaks it really makes a huge difference. I think alot of people that have trouble that want that instant WOW factor without doing the grunt work. I was not very impressed at first when I installed the Linker but every time I would boot up my X, I would spend a few minutes tweaking to make it better and I am finally at a happy point with my settings. 

This new convo got me thinking all day at work today. So tonight when I got home I ditched the Expanded setting and went to back Normal. I did notice my contrast was way too high. I dialed it down to around 30 and man, it just looks so much better. So thanks for pointing that issue out to me. 

I still find myself partial to Bright Cinema. I tried Digitial Cinema but it being more dim kind of bothers me. It really pains me to run the bulb in High Power mode so that is why I am running Bright Cinema on ECO for now. 



Dave Harper said:


> That is due to the P3 color filter that rolls into place when in Digital Cinema Mode. This is why I prefer that mode when I setup and used HarperVision on this projector.


I am going to try to spend some time dialing in Digital Cinema mode tonight if I have time. (I have a foot of snow in my driveway to get rid of) I just need to find something with good test patterns. Most of my Xbox One X games have them so I will give that a shot. The colors look great I just do not like how it is dim. 



sddp said:


> To JewDaddy and Juiced46:
> 
> Thank you SOOOOO much for taking the time (pics, details, info, etc) to post all of this info regarding the linker, 5040, and XB1X.
> 
> 
> I believe I speak on behalf of a ton of people around the world (either part of AVS or just searching this specific info) who can truly benefit from your time explaining all of this in such detail.
> 
> 
> You guys are awesome!


No problem. That is why we are all here. I was a newb with HDR stuff when I started to dabble with this projector. I am by no means an expert or have fancy equipment. Dave Harper is the man to thank as well since he is really the brains with this sort of stuff and to the guys that got the Linker settings nailed down for us. 

I was a bit upset with the projector limitations we have to deal with that I was not aware of until I purchased it. It sucks I had to spend extra money to make it work, I wouldnt say work right(limited to 8 bit gaming), but to atleast work. But the Linker is worth the investment IMO atleast if you are a gamer.


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> I am glad you are now enjoying both systems and utilizing the Linker. I can see how people when they first installed it got upset it did not look that great and sort of wrote it off. The Firmware helped, but even before that with a little bit of time making some tweaks it really makes a huge difference. I think alot of people that have trouble that want that instant WOW factor without doing the grunt work. I was not very impressed at first when I installed the Linker but every time I would boot up my X, I would spend a few minutes tweaking to make it better and I am finally at a happy point with my settings.
> 
> 
> 
> This new convo got me thinking all day at work today. So tonight when I got home I ditched the Expanded setting and went to back Normal. I did notice my contrast was way too high. I dialed it down to around 30 and man, it just looks so much better. So thanks for pointing that issue out to me.
> 
> 
> 
> I still find myself partial to Bright Cinema. I tried Digitial Cinema but it being more dim kind of bothers me. It really pains me to run the bulb in High Power mode so that is why I am running Bright Cinema on ECO for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to try to spend some time dialing in Digital Cinema mode tonight if I have time. (I have a foot of snow in my driveway to get rid of) I just need to find something with good test patterns. Most of my Xbox One X games have them so I will give that a shot. The colors look great I just do not like how it is dim.



I’m excited about playing games in HDR and using my Linker again so thanks for that. I was ready to set it in my neverending box of unused electronics or trying to sell it. Lol 

Glad I could help point out the contrast issue I was seeing and that it was able to help you. I was on the fence about Bright Cinema or Digital Cinema but after seeing Uncharted 4 in HDR with Digital Cinema, I couldn’t go back to Bright Cinema. Those colors looked very saturated and deep but not in an overall artificial way. I would say it would be worth spending some time trying to dial in your Digital Cinema mode and will be more than happy to share my Digital Cinema Settings if you want to try them out and maybe point anything out that I need to try and fix. 

Thanks again for your help!!!!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dave Harper said:


> That is due to the P3 color filter that rolls into place when in Digital Cinema Mode. This is why I prefer that mode when I setup and used HarperVision on this projector.


Dave, can you point to any reference scenes that highlight the BT.2020 / P3 colors? I've been watching content with and without the filter and don't really see a noticeable difference. In fact, because Bright Cinema is twice as bright the colors appear more vibrant, even though it is only Rec.709.

Any specific scenes come to mind to clearly see the difference?


----------



## WynsWrld98

JewDaddy said:


> I’m curious if anyone has heard whether or not Epson will be releasing a follow up to the 5040 this year. Maybe a 5050? Two things I would love to see in the next Projector is an 18gbs HDMI without all these limitations we’re experiencing with this model and my biggest hope..... FI in 4K! It kills me to not be able to use Frame Interpolation when watching 4K movies. I keep wondering with all these firmware updates Epson has released such as brighter HDR and supposed improved 3D performance, can or will they release FI for 4K?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I recall when I had my Epson 6010 that there was no FI with 3D then when I got my 5030 it had it. They never added FI for 3D to the 6010. So if the same happens re: FI with 4K I doubt we'll get a update for it with the 5040/6040 but have to wait for the 5050/6050. I think there's a very good chance Epson will announce a 5050/6050 at CEDIA 9/2018 based on how long between models in the past.

On the subject of 18gbs HDMI they either didn't include it in the 5040/6040 due to trying to keep price down OR they experimented with it and ran into the same kind of problems JVC has with VERY slow sync times when making changes to HDMI. Even with the latest gen JVC projectors it's still really slow from reports I heard when the latest gen came out, nearly the same as the previous gen JVCs so there may be challenges beyond just including a 18gbs HDMI chipset.


----------



## ANDYK48

Dave Harper said:


> I'm sorry, but it's been so long since I made that Bright Cinema Setting and I have no idea where to find anything more than what is already here in this thread. I haven't had a 5040 in awhile, so there's no way to do it now. I think What I did was take Oledurt's settings and tweak them slightly for my room and tastes. His are a great starting point you should try.
> 
> Those other settings are more setup dependent anyway, so set the gamma as a baseline and then use a calibration disc/files to perfect it and to set the other settings properly.



Thanks a lot Dave for answering back and helping us 
I will try Oledurt's settings and you gamma settings for Bright Cinema 
When you get a 5040 again then you can possibly play with it and dial in some good settings for Bright Cinema as well ?   
Thanks a lot again. If I have not been living in Cyprus, I would have send you my 5040 to play with but unfortunately I live too far away.


I would also like to have your opinion for the Cine4Home filter that is available for the 5040 and whether it will make a difference for the better if I buy it and install it ?




Andreas


----------



## john barlow

roland6465 said:


> Yeah, I hate these usb updates. My 6040 only likes brand new sticks to update. I reformatted 2 others twice this time around before I had to open a new one, and it took the first time.


 Did you notice also that our series of projectors are about the only models that you cannot perform a networked FW Update. After you do a couple of these USB upates, it really a rater simple affair.


----------



## robc1976

Anybody with a OPPO 203 mess with HDR setting that allows you to set target luminance nits? Its default is 300 should I set it to 1000 nits since that is about the max this projector is capable of? 










Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Dave Harper said:


> OK, that sounds like it could work. Send me a quick PM, I have some ideas to get this done cheaply and in the most efficient way. Not just for you but anyone who may want one or wants to do this.


I will let you know when I get it, what's your thought on this setting on the OPPO players...should I set this to 1000?









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

@JewDaddy & @Juiced46 
What Dave said about mismatched RGB settings is what I was trying to say, but he said it more clearly 

I'm wondering if your difference in tolerance for the brightness of Digital Cinema mode has to do with your screen size and projector distance. JD, aren't you projecting on a 100 inch screen? Juiced aren't you using something bigger? I'm planning a room and wondering if I should scale the screen down from the 138 inch 2.35:1 that I was planning so that I can get more brightness in digital cinema with HDR and still use eco mode. I have options when it comes to seating distance. Or does a large screen at any distance somehow overcome the benefits of a brighter picture?

Thoughts?


----------



## JewDaddy

Viche said:


> @JewDaddy & @Juiced46
> 
> What Dave said about mismatched RGB settings is what I was trying to say, but he said it more clearly
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if your difference in tolerance for the brightness of Digital Cinema mode has to do with your screen size and projector distance. JD, aren't you projecting on a 100 inch screen? Juiced aren't you using something bigger? I'm planning a room and wondering if I should scale the screen down from the 138 inch 2.35:1 that I was planning so that I can get more brightness in digital cinema with HDR and still use eco mode. I have options when it comes to seating distance. Or does a large screen at any distance somehow overcome the benefits of a brighter picture?
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?




I feel like I’ve had that happen to me on here too. I try to say something and an expert like Dave steps in and says it much better. Lol

I have a 120” screen I’m projecting onto and I believe Juiced is using a 100” screen. Digital Cinema really isn’t that much lower in brightness than Bright Cinema once you get Digital dialed in. Yes there’s definitely an overall brightness difference but it’s not that bad. The colors really do look a lot better at least in my eyes than Bright Cinema. But part of getting Digital Cinema closer to Bright Cinema is putting the lamp mode in high. So if the noise bothers you than I could see that being an issue. 

I know nothing about this distance and screen size and all the screen stuff that can affect picture quality. I will respectfully bow out and let someone else help in that department 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Starks1

I like all this hdr gaming discussion. Ive been playing hzd and uncharted 4. Hzd has a noticeable increase in sharpness without hdr on, so i go back and forth between hdr and not. Uncharted seems equally sharp hdr or not, so ive been loving the hdr! Great showcase for the technology, especially in dark scenes while flashlights swing through darkness or you pass a lit bulb in a dim basement!

I have been going between natural, custom gamma bright cinema, and dynamic. Before the new firmware, dynamic was my choice in uncharted since the extra lumens make me squint with some of the flashlights, spots, and isolated lights. Now with the new firmware, I find the extra brightness in hdr 1 makes it worth the loss of lumosity to run better color in stock gamma bright cinema. As soon as i switch back to Dynamic I still find myself liking the extra brightness. After a minute i kinda forget about the green push and just enjoy the eye squinting brightness on my 110in screen in a black velvet dark cave. 

Great to have so many options. I hadnt even thought to try digital cinema mode. I'll give it a whirl, but those colors will have to be ridiculous for me to give up the extra lumens!

Sent from my 2PZC5 using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

I'm not sure if this is the right forum, but I figured I'd ask since there seem to be a lot of smart av people here.

I'm having to run a new 35ft HDMI cable and I'm using the exact same one that worked fine but I'm getting red static now from it.

The red static only shows up from the output of the Marantz to the projector. If I hook straight into any of the sources themselves it's a clean picture. I tried another short HDMI cable directly from the Marantz into a small TV just to see if it was the receiver and it was a perfect picture. It seems that the cable in the Marantz just aren't playing well together does anyone know why this might be?

It's the Lux 35ft cable from monoprice that can handle everything. Like I said I've used one before and had no issues but I can't figure out why it's giving me red static when plugged into the Marantz sr6011.

I would greatly appreciate any help

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## siuengr

robc1976 said:


> Anybody with a OPPO 203 mess with HDR setting that allows you to set target luminance nits? Its default is 300 should I set it to 1000 nits since that is about the max this projector is capable of?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Nits do not equal lumens. 1 Nit is the approximate equivalent of 3.426 ANSI Lumens. So 1000 Lumens divided by 3.426 equals 291 nits. So the 300 target is pretty close.


----------



## Mr.G

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm not sure if this is the right forum, but I figured I'd ask since there seem to be a lot of smart av people here.
> 
> I'm having to run a new 35ft HDMI cable and I'm using the exact same one that worked fine but I'm getting red static now from it.
> 
> The red static only shows up from the output of the Marantz to the projector. If I hook straight into any of the sources themselves it's a clean picture. I tried another short HDMI cable directly from the Marantz into a small TV just to see if it was the receiver and it was a perfect picture. It seems that the cable in the Marantz just aren't playing well together does anyone know why this might be?
> 
> It's the Lux 35ft cable from monoprice that can handle everything. Like I said I've used one before and had no issues but I can't figure out why it's giving me red static when plugged into the Marantz sr6011.
> 
> I would greatly appreciate any help.


You may want to try the owner's thread as well.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...nr-1607-sr-5011-6011-7011-owner-s-thread.html


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> I believe the Xbox does not output at 8 bit because of banding.
> 
> 
> You can tell its forcing it to upscale to 4K by just looking at the dashboard and going to the projector info screen. It states its in 4K when you have the display set to 4K UHD. It upscales everything. The dashboard is in 1080P native so it should never be in 4K.... That is how you know its being upscaled. Plus my GTA picture also proves this.
> 
> 
> 
> If you set the X to 1080P 12 bit with no Linker. You get 1080p 12 bit. The Epson can handle this. It CANNOT handle 4K/60 12 bit. This is why we need to use the Linker to trick it and FORCE 8 bit. The X does not downgrade the signal to 8 bit that the Epson supports, most likely due to banding.
> 
> 
> You know with no Linker it is not in 4K for sure for multiple reasons. One Xbox clearly states that particular setting upscales everything. They also clearly state that 1080p will automatically switch to 4K. It does not switch to 4K because the signal is not supported by the Epson, it stays in 1080P. if the Epson supported it properly and the X talked with the Epson properly, 1080p would be switched automatically.
> 
> 
> When the Linker is installed. 1080P resolution is set on the X, it switches to native 4K just as Xbox states it does. You can also verify this with the Linker connected, you can watch it switch from 1080p to 4K. Where as if you have it in upscale mode, it just forces it to be upscaled all the time.
> 
> 
> My color temp is 6 and I did not touch any RGB settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have 10 memory slots to make saves. There are tons of posts about HDR settings in this thread. Adjust accordingly to your particular application




Hey Juiced. Quick question for you. Now that I have my Linker hooked back up and I’m using HDR, should I keep my Xbox one X setup as 1080p or 4K? I wasn’t sure if you said that if I choose 4K then it will only upscale or if that only happens when the Linker is not in the mix. I want to make sure that on non 4K games that it still upscales but also keeps the enhanced games at native 4K. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rmcalhany

roland6465 said:


> It?s a sad day. After less than 700 hours, and working perfectly last night, my 6040 is dead as a door nail. Tried switching and testing my outlets, starting it in update mode, nothing.
> 
> And since it?s Christmas, the replacement may not come until Tuesday or Wednesday. Sigh.


Funny. Mine died last weekend, too. Sounds about the same thing. Got my replacement today and setting it up now w/ new firmware.


----------



## inspector

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm not sure if this is the right forum, but I figured I'd ask since there seem to be a lot of smart av people here.
> 
> I'm having to run a new 35ft HDMI cable and I'm using the exact same one that worked fine but I'm getting red static now from it.
> 
> The red static only shows up from the output of the Marantz to the projector. If I hook straight into any of the sources themselves it's a clean picture. I tried another short HDMI cable directly from the Marantz into a small TV just to see if it was the receiver and it was a perfect picture. It seems that the cable in the Marantz just aren't playing well together does anyone know why this might be?
> 
> It's the Lux 35ft cable from monoprice that can handle everything. Like I said I've used one before and had no issues but I can't figure out why it's giving me red static when plugged into the Marantz sr6011.
> 
> I would greatly appreciate any help
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


 
I've been running MONOPRICE CABERNET ULTRA CL2 HIGH SPEED HDMI 45' CABLE since May 2017 and it has worked flawlessly since then.


----------



## jwhn

Viche said:


> @JewDaddy & @Juiced46
> What Dave said about mismatched RGB settings is what I was trying to say, but he said it more clearly
> 
> I'm wondering if your difference in tolerance for the brightness of Digital Cinema mode has to do with your screen size and projector distance. JD, aren't you projecting on a 100 inch screen? Juiced aren't you using something bigger? I'm planning a room and wondering if I should scale the screen down from the 138 inch 2.35:1 that I was planning so that I can get more brightness in digital cinema with HDR and still use eco mode. I have options when it comes to seating distance. Or does a large screen at any distance somehow overcome the benefits of a brighter picture?
> 
> Thoughts?


It might come down to your expectations for HDR. I think there are two main aspects to HDR 1) spectral highlights that are much brighter than the average brightness level and 2) wider color gamut.

Unfortunately, it is really not possible to get both with the 5040UB. If you want to run Digital Cinema you are essentially deciding on option 2 (as you won't have enough luminance to get the "HDR effect" of option 1.) In that case, with the firmware update, you should have enough brightness for digital cinema (although not sure about ECO mode). I just did a calibration with digital cinema and the picture looks great, but it doesn't have the very bright spectral highlights. It doesn't really look that different than my calibrated SDR picture, but it will get the wider colors if they are in the content. 

If you want to instead try and get option 1, you are likely looking at running Bright Cinema in medium or high lamp.

So you might think through what your expectations are around HDR before finalizing your decision. Hope this helps.


----------



## robc1976

siuengr said:


> Nits do not equal lumens. 1 Nit is the approximate equivalent of 3.426 ANSI Lumens. So 1000 Lumens divided by 3.426 equals 291 nits. So the 300 target is pretty close.


Wow! That is great info then...that means the luminance setting on my xbox 1x is wrong I am guessing? I have that at 1000 and it made whites really pop but I guarantee I am losing detail.

I got contrast and luminace mixed up, in test patterns you set contrast to 1000nits ect

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

inspector said:


> I've been running MONOPRICE CABERNET ULTRA CL2 HIGH SPEED HDMI 45' CABLE since May 2017 and it has worked flawlessly since then.


Me also, flawless

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

Got my replacement 6040 this week from Epson due to the HDMI 1 input going bad on my original unit. Started checking out the replacement (a refurb) and noticed what looks to me like a dust blob. Called Epson and they're sending me another replacement. 

I went ahead and updated the firmware to 1.11 on this unit just to try out the improvements they made to the HDR (Bright) mode. Wow! That really makes a difference! I think I'm in the camp willing to run Bright Cinema on Medium lamp. I would really like for someone to point out any source material where the wider color gamut provided by the Cinema modes makes a dramatic difference. I haven't seen it yet.


----------



## Dave Harper

Juiced46 said:


> I am glad you are now enjoying both systems and utilizing the Linker. I can see how people when they first installed it got upset it did not look that great and sort of wrote it off. The Firmware helped, but even before that with a little bit of time making some tweaks it really makes a huge difference. I think alot of people that have trouble that want that instant WOW factor without doing the grunt work. I was not very impressed at first when I installed the Linker but every time I would boot up my X, I would spend a few minutes tweaking to make it better and I am finally at a happy point with my settings.
> 
> 
> 
> This new convo got me thinking all day at work today. So tonight when I got home I ditched the Expanded setting and went to back Normal. I did notice my contrast was way too high. I dialed it down to around 30 and man, it just looks so much better. So thanks for pointing that issue out to me.
> 
> 
> 
> I still find myself partial to Bright Cinema. I tried Digitial Cinema but it being more dim kind of bothers me. It really pains me to run the bulb in High Power mode so that is why I am running Bright Cinema on ECO for now.
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to try to spend some time dialing in Digital Cinema mode tonight if I have time. (I have a foot of snow in my driveway to get rid of) I just need to find something with good test patterns. Most of my Xbox One X games have them so I will give that a shot. The colors look great I just do not like how it is dim.
> 
> 
> 
> No problem. That is why we are all here. I was a newb with HDR stuff when I started to dabble with this projector. I am by no means an expert or have fancy equipment. Dave Harper is the man to thank as well since he is really the brains with this sort of stuff and to the guys that got the Linker settings nailed down for us.
> 
> 
> 
> I was a bit upset with the projector limitations we have to deal with that I was not aware of until I purchased it. It sucks I had to spend extra money to make it work, I wouldnt say work right(limited to 8 bit gaming), but to atleast work. But the Linker is worth the investment IMO atleast if you are a gamer.



Are you using HarperVision custom settings or the new brighter firmware when you try Digital Cinema mode?

Aren't the lamps pretty cheap with this projector, like $99? I would crank that puppy up for HDR!



ANDYK48 said:


> Thanks a lot Dave for answering back and helping us
> I will try Oledurt's settings and you gamma settings for Bright Cinema
> When you get a 5040 again then you can possibly play with it and dial in some good settings for Bright Cinema as well ?
> Thanks a lot again. If I have not been living in Cyprus, I would have send you my 5040 to play with but unfortunately I live too far away.
> 
> I would also like to have your opinion for the Cine4Home filter that is available for the 5040 and whether it will make a difference for the better if I buy it and install it ?
> 
> Andreas



I have no experience with those filters, but I do trust Ekki so I wouldn't hesitate to try one if you're trying to increase your contrast. I would seek out users that have it and see what their opinions are. 




jwhn said:


> Dave, can you point to any reference scenes that highlight the BT.2020 / P3 colors? I've been watching content with and without the filter and don't really see a noticeable difference. In fact, because Bright Cinema is twice as bright the colors appear more vibrant, even though it is only Rec.709.
> 
> 
> 
> Any specific scenes come to mind to clearly see the difference?



The only ines that come to mind when I had the 5040 was the opening battle scenes in The Revenant, especially with the deep reds of the blood and the fire and also the gleam of the brass on the rifles and some Forrest and sunset scenes. 

Also a lot of scenes in Ghostbusters 2016, especially the neon green gargoyle scenes and the reds in their firehouse office and labs. 

I think Mad Max when they're driving into the storm shows some awesome colors like fire, chrome, etc. The Martian and Star Trek Beyond showed off some good scenes too. 




robc1976 said:


> Anybody with a OPPO 203 mess with HDR setting that allows you to set target luminance nits? Its default is 300 should I set it to 1000 nits since that is about the max this projector is capable of?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk





robc1976 said:


> I will let you know when I get it, what's your thought on this setting on the OPPO players...should I set this to 1000?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk





siuengr said:


> Nits do not equal lumens. 1 Nit is the approximate equivalent of 3.426 ANSI Lumens. So 1000 Lumens divided by 3.426 equals 291 nits. So the 300 target is pretty close.




Yeah, what siuenger said!



robc1976 said:


> Wow! That is great info then...that means the luminance setting on my xbox 1x is wrong I am guessing? I have that at 1000 and it made whites really pop but I guarantee I am losing detail.
> 
> I got contrast and luminace mixed up, in test patterns you set contrast to 1000nits ect
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



That is usually setting it properly to what the source (UHD Bluray, etc.) is mastered at, like 1,000, 2,000, 4,000 or 10,000 nits.


----------



## sddp

mCable?


Does anyone have the 411 on this and what is your views? 
Too good to be true? Someone mentioned this on another thread to use along with my Darbeevision DVP-5000S.

There are two types, one for gaming and the other for cinema:

http://www.marseilleinc.com/#


How did we not know about this?
Why hasn't this blown up?
Do I need to go and buy all new mCable HDMI cable all over again if this does what it says?


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> Hey Juiced. Quick question for you. Now that I have my Linker hooked back up and I’m using HDR, should I keep my Xbox one X setup as 1080p or 4K? I wasn’t sure if you said that if I choose 4K then it will only upscale or if that only happens when the Linker is not in the mix. I want to make sure that on non 4K games that it still upscales but also keeps the enhanced games at native 4K.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I run mine in 1080p and let the X switch it over. I am going by the wording directly from Xbox. Basically they are saying if you set it to 1080p and the game is 4K, you will get 4K native. The wording makes it seem like if you select 4K UHD everything gets upscaled and vague if 4K stuff is being sent in 4K. If you want to upscale non 4K stuff, just keep it in 1080P and leave 4Ke on and let the Epson upscale it.



Dave Harper said:


> Are you using HarperVision custom settings or the new brighter firmware when you try Digital Cinema mode?
> 
> Aren't the lamps pretty cheap with this projector, like $99? I would crank that puppy up for HDR!


I am using the new brigher firmware but I am not using Harpervision. I was using your settings that are Linked in your sig. To me, it makes the games look dim and dull. Colors were sort of faded. I ended up with my own customer settings by eye. Plus I did not want to run the lamp in High Power mode

As far as $99 bulbs, I wish! I have yet to see a $99 5040 bulb. There was 1 guy on here claiming he got one for around $90 on Amazon and claims it is OEM. However, he will not give a link or even show a picture of the box, so that makes me believe its not OEM and he is confused and will not admit it. If you know of a True OEM $99 bulb, please let me know. I will buy a couple  Prices I have seen for them are around $250


----------



## Dave Harper

sddp said:


> mCable?
> 
> 
> Does anyone have the 411 on this and what is your views?
> Too good to be true? Someone mentioned this on another thread to use along with my Darbeevision DVP-5000S.
> 
> There are two types, one for gaming and the other for cinema:
> 
> http://www.marseilleinc.com/#
> 
> 
> How did we not know about this?
> Why hasn't this blown up?
> Do I need to go and buy all new mCable HDMI cable all over again if this does what it says?


I recall reading about these initially too, but then there was some issue and they weren't all that they were cracked up to be apparently. I could be wrong, but do some research on them before you buy. It was pretty easy for me to see they weren't right, at least for me.




Juiced46 said:


> I run mine in 1080p and let the X switch it over. I am going by the wording directly from Xbox. Basically they are saying if you set it to 1080p and the game is 4K, you will get 4K native. The wording makes it seem like if you select 4K UHD everything gets upscaled and vague if 4K stuff is being sent in 4K. If you want to upscale non 4K stuff, just keep it in 1080P and leave 4Ke on and let the Epson upscale it.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using the new brigher firmware but I am not using Harpervision. I was using your settings that are Linked in your sig. To me, it makes the games look dim and dull. Colors were sort of faded. I ended up with my own customer settings by eye. Plus I did not want to run the lamp in High Power mode
> 
> As far as $99 bulbs, I wish! I have yet to see a $99 5040 bulb. There was 1 guy on here claiming he got one for around $90 on Amazon and claims it is OEM. However, he will not give a link or even show a picture of the box, so that makes me believe its not OEM and he is confused and will not admit it. If you know of a True OEM $99 bulb, please let me know. I will buy a couple  Prices I have seen for them are around $250


Did you compensate HarperVision on SDR and the custom gamma with higher contrast and Color Saturation (and CMS with the right tools)? I can't imagine the colors being faded, dim and dull if my settings were installed properly.

I must have confused the lamps with another model or something then. We sell tons of them and that is easy to do. I will see what we have for the 5040.


----------



## spirithockey79

I too would love to find a bulb for $99, I’d buy 2 or 3. Best I’ve seen have also been around $250. I do use HV and love it, so I’m worried that high lamp will soon need a replacement as I’m at about 800hrs. 

So with the new FW are all the HDR modes a little brighter, or just the Auto Bright mode? was there an inherent change to brightness for all the picture modes, or is this only a change to HDR? Wondering if I need to check my brightness/contrast settings for SDR presets?

I’m glad Epson finally did something but ticked off that it took over a year. For those of us that paid for a calibration, does this change in brightness impact grayscale and CMS? I’m confident with changing brightness/contrast but I don’t have equipment to tweak other areas.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## old corps

Supposedly The 5040 lamps went down to $99 from Epson directly for a very short period of time (late Summer/early fall) then returned to the $300 mark.  Me thinks somebody screwed up the correct pricing and it didn't take long to correct it. Sure wish it stayed at the lower price!


BTW, re. cables. I figured my existing Monoprice 50' active cable (I believe one of 1st active ones they offered, not sure of the name) wouldn't pass 4K/HDR. So I ordered one of their 50' "Dynamic View" cables. Guess what, the new cable is still rolled up 'cause the existing cable works just fine. It is connected directly to the 5040 though because I couldn't get it work using a Blackbird splitter that's supposed handle the job.


Ed


----------



## jwhn

spirithockey79 said:


> So with the new FW are all the HDR modes a little brighter, or just the Auto Bright mode? was there an inherent change to brightness for all the picture modes, or is this only a change to HDR? Wondering if I need to check my brightness/contrast settings for SDR presets?
> 
> I’m glad Epson finally did something but ticked off that it took over a year. For those of us that paid for a calibration, does this change in brightness impact grayscale and CMS? I’m confident with changing brightness/contrast but I don’t have equipment to tweak other areas.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I posted this a couple of days ago. Your HDR calibration should still be fine. You just need to shift down one level (so if you calibrated against HDR1 you should now use HDR2 which should be the same as the previous HDR1). SDR calibration should not be affected. See this article for more details.

https://www.projectorreviews.com/th...040-pc6040ub-projectors-end-user-hdr-upgrade/


----------



## WynsWrld98

Bought a replacement 5040 lamp for $91.26 9/2017 from a MASSIVE dealer in the Pacific Northwest and it's the real deal.


----------



## spirithockey79

jwhn said:


> I posted this a couple of days ago. Your HDR calibration should still be fine. You just need to shift down one level (so if you calibrated against HDR1 you should now use HDR2 which should be the same as the previous HDR1). SDR calibration should not be affected. See this article for more details.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/th...040-pc6040ub-projectors-end-user-hdr-upgrade/




So if my HDR calibration was with the previous Auto Bright setting (which should have been HDR 1) I just need to change to HDR 2 now to retain the same calibrated results?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

WynsWrld98 said:


> Bought a replacement 5040 lamp for $91.26 9/2017 from a MASSIVE dealer in the Pacific Northwest and it's the real deal.




Care to share who that MASSIVE dealer was?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> I am glad you are now enjoying both systems and utilizing the Linker. I can see how people when they first installed it got upset it did not look that great and sort of wrote it off. The Firmware helped, but even before that with a little bit of time making some tweaks it really makes a huge difference. I think alot of people that have trouble that want that instant WOW factor without doing the grunt work. I was not very impressed at first when I installed the Linker but every time I would boot up my X, I would spend a few minutes tweaking to make it better and I am finally at a happy point with my settings.
> 
> This new convo got me thinking all day at work today. So tonight when I got home I ditched the Expanded setting and went to back Normal. I did notice my contrast was way too high. I dialed it down to around 30 and man, it just looks so much better. So thanks for pointing that issue out to me.
> 
> I still find myself partial to Bright Cinema. I tried Digitial Cinema but it being more dim kind of bothers me. It really pains me to run the bulb in High Power mode so that is why I am running Bright Cinema on ECO for now.
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to try to spend some time dialing in Digital Cinema mode tonight if I have time. (I have a foot of snow in my driveway to get rid of) I just need to find something with good test patterns. Most of my Xbox One X games have them so I will give that a shot. The colors look great I just do not like how it is dim.
> 
> 
> 
> No problem. That is why we are all here. I was a newb with HDR stuff when I started to dabble with this projector. I am by no means an expert or have fancy equipment. Dave Harper is the man to thank as well since he is really the brains with this sort of stuff and to the guys that got the Linker settings nailed down for us.
> 
> I was a bit upset with the projector limitations we have to deal with that I was not aware of until I purchased it. It sucks I had to spend extra money to make it work, I wouldnt say work right(limited to 8 bit gaming), but to atleast work. But the Linker is worth the investment IMO atleast if you are a gamer.


Juiced, I used oledurts bright cinema with brightness and contrast set via test patterns. He uses expanded HDMI, range I forgot the reasoning but think its needed for his settings? Are you suggesting normal for oledurts settings also? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

spirithockey79 said:


> WynsWrld98 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a replacement 5040 lamp for $91.26 9/2017 from a MASSIVE dealer in the Pacific Northwest and it's the real deal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Care to share who that MASSIVE dealer was?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Not supposed to do price talk which is why I have been hinting. Another hint is a giant jungle. But like others mentioned the price didn't last long.


----------



## robc1976

Based on our projectors specs what should the below settings be below? These are settings from game on xbox x game









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Dave Harper said:


> Did you compensate HarperVision on SDR and the custom gamma with higher contrast and Color Saturation (and CMS with the right tools)? I can't imagine the colors being faded, dim and dull if my settings were installed properly.
> 
> I must have confused the lamps with another model or something then. We sell tons of them and that is easy to do. I will see what we have for the 5040.


The settings were installed properly for sure. I compensated brightness and Contrast. I do not have any tools (this is my issue) to calibrate. The only thing I have been using is some Xbox One X games have test patterns and I adjust using that, then go off what my eyes are telling me. Also my comment about the dull faded colors is just for gaming only for the most part. I feel HDR movies look good with the Harpervision settings. I will see if I can put my time in some more and adjust with Harpervision for gaming, but the high lamp mode is what is keeping me from using it. I game alot on this projector. Which is why I switched to my own Bright Cinema settings and now I can run ECO lamp mode. I probably should invest in some calibration tools but I really do not know much about what I am doing. Plus I am pretty happy with my image how it is now. 

As far as the bulb pricing, I have seen some other Epson bulbs around $90 but not the ELPLP89 that we need. 



WynsWrld98 said:


> Bought a replacement 5040 lamp for $91.26 9/2017 from a MASSIVE dealer in the Pacific Northwest and it's the real deal.


Can you please PM me the info? Did the lamp come in a genuine sealed Epson box?



robc1976 said:


> Juiced, I used oledurts bright cinema with brightness and contrast set via test patterns. He uses expanded HDMI, range I forgot the reasoning but think its needed for his settings? Are you suggesting normal for oledurts settings also?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


No, I used Normal on my own settings. Expanded for Oledurts


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> I run mine in 1080p and let the X switch it over. I am going by the wording directly from Xbox. Basically they are saying if you set it to 1080p and the game is 4K, you will get 4K native. The wording makes it seem like if you select 4K UHD everything gets upscaled and vague if 4K stuff is being sent in 4K. If you want to upscale non 4K stuff, just keep it in 1080P and leave 4Ke on and let the Epson upscale it.




So something interesting that maybe you guys already know. I streamed VUDU through my One X and I had my resolution set to 1080p. When I tried to play a UHD HDR Movie it said that I had to connect to a compatible HDMI 2.2 and it played in 1080p. I exited and went back to my video settings and changed to 4K. Started Vudu back up and it played a UHD Movie in 4K with HDR and Atmos. Juiced, has that happened to you? After what you’ve told me about keeping the resolution at 1080p, that didn’t make sense. 

The other issue I ran into was when I opened Netflix with either 1080 or 4K resolution in the Xbox video settings, it would play in 4k but every thing I watched said HDR even if it wasn’t HDR material. Has that happened to anyone else? I’m wondering I have a setting wrong in my Linker. It seems like no matter what I did with Netflix that it always thought HDR was active. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

spirithockey79 said:


> So if my HDR calibration was with the previous Auto Bright setting (which should have been HDR 1) I just need to change to HDR 2 now to retain the same calibrated results?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Yes. You can also set it to Auto (not Auto(bright)) and it will default to HDR2


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## john barlow

Juiced46 said:


> I run mine in 1080p and let the X switch it over. I am going by the wording directly from Xbox. Basically they are saying if you set it to 1080p and the game is 4K, you will get 4K native. The wording makes it seem like if you select 4K UHD everything gets upscaled and vague if 4K stuff is being sent in 4K. If you want to upscale non 4K stuff, just keep it in 1080P and leave 4Ke on and let the Epson upscale it.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using the new brigher firmware but I am not using Harpervision. I was using your settings that are Linked in your sig. To me, it makes the games look dim and dull. Colors were sort of faded. I ended up with my own customer settings by eye. Plus I did not want to run the lamp in High Power mode
> 
> As far as $99 bulbs, I wish! I have yet to see a $99 5040 bulb. There was 1 guy on here claiming he got one for around $90 on Amazon and claims it is OEM. However, he will not give a link or even show a picture of the box, so that makes me believe its not OEM and he is confused and will not admit it. If you know of a True OEM $99 bulb, please let me know. I will buy a couple  Prices I have seen for them are around $250


 I got lucky, so what. I wasn't instructed by subpoena to qualify my purchase to you or anyone else. In life, sometimes good deals happen. It was a one off apparently and at the time, I certainly didn't know that.


----------



## Azekecse

I'm just elated that I received my extra Epson 6040 lamp for the $99.00 price, thanks to the information provided on this forum. I was reluctant at first, because the 6040 already comes with an extra lamp. However, I watch a lot of TV in the man cave, so I figured, at the time, it was worth the additional $99.00 cost to have two extra OEM bulbs on hand. It certainly doesn't hurt...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> I do not use VUDU so I am not quite sure. Amazon Prime and UHD Discs work great for me on the 1080p setting. As far as Netflix, I cannot comment since I do not have a Netflix UHD account.



I was hoping to get your findings on that. I’m so confused because unless my 1X is set to 4K UHD, I cant play UHD movies because it doesn’t recognize my display as 4K. When I tried 1080p HDR with Netflix, it does recognize the display as 4K but it thinks everything is HDR. Literally as soon as I start up Netflix and I check projector info it says HDR. Even though you don’t have a UHD Netflix account, maybe you can check and see if it’s showing HDR. 

So I tried to watch Netflix in 4K without HDR enabled on my 1X and with my video output set to 1080p and no HDR, Netflix did not recognized the projector as 4K and only streamed in 1080 HD. I went back to video settings kept HDR off and selected 4K resolution and Netflix played in 4K without HDR like I hoped It would. This kind of goes against what Microsoft has said about keeping 1080 as the resolution and letting it switch automatically. It didn’t work for Netflix unless HDR was selected and it didn’t work at all for Vudu. The problem with keeping HDR on and 1080 resolution is that if I try to use Netflix with that setup, I will get HDR all the time. I’m assuming that’s a Linker issue???




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> The settings were installed properly for sure. I compensated brightness and Contrast. I do not have any tools (this is my issue) to calibrate. The only thing I have been using is some Xbox One X games have test patterns and I adjust using that, then go off what my eyes are telling me. Also my comment about the dull faded colors is just for gaming only for the most part. I feel HDR movies look good with the Harpervision settings. I will see if I can put my time in some more and adjust with Harpervision for gaming, but the high lamp mode is what is keeping me from using it. I game alot on this projector. Which is why I switched to my own Bright Cinema settings and now I can run ECO lamp mode. I probably should invest in some calibration tools but I really do not know much about what I am doing. Plus I am pretty happy with my image how it is now.
> 
> As far as the bulb pricing, I have seen some other Epson bulbs around $90 but not the ELPLP89 that we need.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you please PM me the info? Did the lamp come in a genuine sealed Epson box?
> 
> 
> 
> No, I used Normal on my own settings. Expanded for Oledurts


Juice, are you in a dark light control room? If so you mind posting or Pming your settings? All your info on the linker and other things have been top notch so I am sure your settings are great

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

I can confirm what "juice" says, leave xbox x in 1080P and when a 4K have is played you get native instead of 4K. Its a better picture

Can anyone confirm that image processing fine/fast does nothing to picture? I thought maybe the fast setting would add distortion possibly

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shane M

*Apple TV 4K*

I've got the 5040UB, and the Apple TV using Plex. 1080P looks fantastic. Question - if I upgrade to the Apple TV 4K, does the 5040 accept the 4K HDR signal from the ATV4K and display properly? (of course, I know it down-rez to 1080P/Faux-K, but does it accept the 4K signal + HDR)? Any tricks with settings to get the HDR working?

Thanks!!!


----------



## JewDaddy

robc1976 said:


> I can confirm what "juice" says, leave xbox x in 1080P and when a 4K have is played you get native instead of 4K. Its a better picture
> 
> Can anyone confirm that image processing fine/fast does nothing to picture? I thought maybe the fast setting would add distortion possibly
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




I wonder if it’s like that on every display or just on the Epson because of the limitations.... I would assume most people that bought an XBOX One X with a LED or OLED 4K HDR TV set the resolution at 4K because that makes the most sense.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

JewDaddy said:


> I wonder if it’s like that on every display or just on the Epson because of the limitations.... I would assume most people that bought an XBOX One X with a LED or OLED 4K HDR TV set the resolution at 4K because that makes the most sense.....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I wonder to, but the way the xbox x seems to work with games is if its set to 4K uhd it upscales but if console is set to 1080 and it senses a 4K game its native

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

robc1976 said:


> I wonder to, but the way the xbox x seems to work with games is if its set to 4K uhd it upscales but if console is set to 1080 and it senses a 4K game its native
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




But how do we know it’s native 4K? I guess where I’m struggling is knowing it’s native as opposed to upscaled. I get that the dashboard is being upscaled but how do we know it’s not kicking in native 4K when an enhanced game is being put in? Because Vudu doesn’t even recognize 4K unless the resolution is set to 4K. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bigbadbob

*Curved screen*

Looking at a Seymour curved AT screen. Anybody using a curved screen with their 5040?


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> But how do we know it’s native 4K? I guess where I’m struggling is knowing it’s native as opposed to upscaled. I get that the dashboard is being upscaled but how do we know it’s not kicking in native 4K when an enhanced game is being put in? Because Vudu doesn’t even recognize 4K unless the resolution is set to 4K.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Its a valid question. I went back and re-read Xbox's support about 4K and upscaling. I do not know why it did not register in my brain the first time......This is what it says.

"With 4K UHD selected, on the Xbox One X 4K content is displayed in its NATIVE resolution, and other content (like games encoded in 1080p) are upscaled to 4K."

So basically, 4K content is native, everything else gets forced to 4K. 

If you do not want to upscale say 1080p stuff. Then use the 1080p setting, it will automatically switch to 4K when it sees native 4K content and leave everything else at its native resolution. As far as why it is not switching to 4K when you send a 4K signal with the 1080p setting on, I am not sure. It is working on mine for gaming. I will test other apps to see what happens. But I do not use Vudu or Netflix so I cannot help there. But if you want everything to be in 4K, looks like you can just set it to 4K UHD and forget it 



robc1976 said:


> Juice, are you in a dark light control room? If so you mind posting or Pming your settings? All your info on the linker and other things have been top notch so I am sure your settings are great
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yes, I have a completely dark room with a black ceiling and walls. I will send you my latest settings. Like I said before, they work for me, but I do not use any calibration equipment. I am still slightly tweaking my settings here and there but I feel I have it pretty close to where I want it. I will PM you my settings. 



robc1976 said:


> Can anyone confirm that image processing fine/fast does nothing to picture? I thought maybe the fast setting would add distortion possibly
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I have yet to see switching to FAST mode cause any picture degradation. I use Fast mode for games like COD where you need quick reactions and every millisecond counts. No difference in picture quality at all. My Epson 5025/5030 in Fast mode was VERY bad, the image looked pretty bad. Epson must have listened and changed something in the 5040 because it works very very well IMO. 




SeattleHTGuy said:


> Many of us have spent a lot to build a room. $150 difference in bulb price is kind of indicating you might not be playing the game very well in the big picture. (Hint.... go to work and make an additional $150 and be quiet and happy).


I am so sorry some of us poor people like a good deal. Especially when users post about it on the forum then hold back the info. I forgot what these forums were for. I originally thought it was to help fellow members out. I guess its more about gloating about your great deal to rub in everyones faces. My apologies though, you are so right. I will go work some OT so I can overpay so I can be quiet and you can be happy.........


----------



## inspector

Yes, Epson was selling their OEM bulbs for $99 a few months back. I already had 2 spares and didn't need any more.


----------



## jeremyh8

*projector calibration*

I am a total noob and am looking for some help. I have been doing a lot of reading in this forum and i realize the best option is for me to do my own calibration in home. I have xbox one x, nvidia shield going thru hdfury vertex to the 5040ub. What are some decent options to buy or rent that i can use to do a calibration? Is there anything specific to my projector to help know what specific settings on the projector need to be updated? i have the latest 111 firmware running already and set to auto bright for HDR with nothing else changed.


----------



## ruggercb

bigbadbob said:


> Looking at a Seymour curved AT screen. Anybody using a curved screen with their 5040?




I use a curved silver ticket matte white. In the process of (hopefully, as in I hope the screen is great) upgrading to a Dark Energy Abyss. It’s a bezel free design...took me a few hours but finally have my PJ/lens dialed in with pretty much zero distortion. Gonna need a pretty perfect image without the felt border.

So I’m assuming you are using an A lens? As far as flexibility, the 5040 is great for that. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

jeremyh8 said:


> I am a total noob and am looking for some help. I have been doing a lot of reading in this forum and i realize the best option is for me to do my own calibration in home. I have xbox one x, nvidia shield going thru hdfury vertex to the 5040ub. What are some decent options to buy or rent that i can use to do a calibration? Is there anything specific to my projector to help know what specific settings on the projector need to be updated? i have the latest 111 firmware running already and set to auto bright for HDR with nothing else changed.



If you want to do your own cal I would get one of these 

https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW

HCFR is "donation-ware" calibration software so want cost you anything outside of any donations you choose to make.

That's really all you need. Full disclosure: the learning curve is a little steep but there is tons of help from generous experts on these forums. 

To me It's been worth it...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

Juiced46 said:


> Its a valid question. I went back and re-read Xbox's support about 4K and upscaling. I do not know why it did not register in my brain the first time......This is what it says.
> 
> "With 4K UHD selected, on the Xbox One X 4K content is displayed in its NATIVE resolution, and other content (like games encoded in 1080p) are upscaled to 4K."
> 
> So basically, 4K content is native, everything else gets forced to 4K.
> 
> If you do not want to upscale say 1080p stuff. Then use the 1080p setting, it will automatically switch to 4K when it sees native 4K content and leave everything else at its native resolution. As far as why it is not switching to 4K when you send a 4K signal with the 1080p setting on, I am not sure. It is working on mine for gaming. I will test other apps to see what happens. But I do not use Vudu or Netflix so I cannot help there. But if you want everything to be in 4K, looks like you can just set it to 4K UHD and forget it



So to fully grasp this, I bought the XB1X and more specifically for SW Battlefront II, but in any case on the 1X leave it on 4K which would upscale, but then the 5040 it would bring it down to 1080 then upscale for a 2nd time to 4K?

Would this be the best of all options?

I did play with the settings; Your suggestion vs. 4K. going back and forth a few times. I did notice that in 4K, it showed 4K but in 1080P it showed 8bit, SR, 709.

So confusing. On a 150" screen little details like this really shows.

So want the absolute best possible.
Also considering the mCable thingy


----------



## Juiced46

sddp said:


> So to fully grasp this, I bought the XB1X and more specifically for SW Battlefront II, but in any case on the 1X leave it on 4K which would upscale, but then the 5040 it would bring it down to 1080 then upscale for a 2nd time to 4K?
> 
> Would this be the best of all options?
> 
> I did play with the settings; Your suggestion vs. 4K. going back and forth a few times. I did notice that in 4K, it showed 4K but in 1080P it showed 8bit, SR, 709.
> 
> So confusing. On a 150" screen little details like this really shows.
> 
> So want the absolute best possible.
> Also considering the mCable thingy


If you are not using a Linker. The Xbox is sending a 1080P signal upscaled to 4k. The Epson is not upscaling it, unless you leave the system set to 1080p (without a Linker) the X sends 1080p and the Epson has the ability to scale it with with 4K enhancement. Without a Linker you cannot get 4K gaming with the X. It does not start with a 4K signal and downgrade. The system detects your display cannot do it so it sends 1080p.


----------



## merkaba

ht guy said:


> Part of the issue may be that there are multiple versions here. I will try to delete the older ones and point to this post.
> 
> Here is the latest version (the last one incorrectly indicated oledurt's v.2 Bright Cinema setting used 50 for brightness instead of 40.)
> 
> Most importantly, a big shout out and thank you to oledurt, Dave Harper and all the other users who have posted their settings here.


Having all of these settings is awesome! Thank you for that. Does anyone have experience with these? I'm looking for a settings for watching sports and a separate settings for watching movies. If anyone has any recommendations on which to try for each that would be excellent. Is there a way to save settings?


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> Its a valid question. I went back and re-read Xbox's support about 4K and upscaling. I do not know why it did not register in my brain the first time......This is what it says.
> 
> "With 4K UHD selected, on the Xbox One X 4K content is displayed in its NATIVE resolution, and other content (like games encoded in 1080p) are upscaled to 4K."
> 
> So basically, 4K content is native, everything else gets forced to 4K.
> 
> If you do not want to upscale say 1080p stuff. Then use the 1080p setting, it will automatically switch to 4K when it sees native 4K content and leave everything else at its native resolution. As far as why it is not switching to 4K when you send a 4K signal with the 1080p setting on, I am not sure. It is working on mine for gaming. I will test other apps to see what happens. But I do not use Vudu or Netflix so I cannot help there. But if you want everything to be in 4K, looks like you can just set it to 4K UHD and forget it
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I have a completely dark room with a black ceiling and walls. I will send you my latest settings. Like I said before, they work for me, but I do not use any calibration equipment. I am still slightly tweaking my settings here and there but I feel I have it pretty close to where I want it. I will PM you my settings.
> 
> 
> 
> I have yet to see switching to FAST mode cause any picture degradation. I use Fast mode for games like COD where you need quick reactions and every millisecond counts. No difference in picture quality at all. My Epson 5025/5030 in Fast mode was VERY bad, the image looked pretty bad. Epson must have listened and changed something in the 5040 because it works very very well IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am so sorry some of us poor people like a good deal. Especially when users post about it on the forum then hold back the info. I forgot what these forums were for. I originally thought it was to help fellow members out. I guess its more about gloating about your great deal to rub in everyones faces. My apologies though, you are so right. I will go work some OT so I can overpay so I can be quiet and you can be happy.........


Thank you man, would love to try those settings! 

Agree, find a good deal why not share with others? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

sddp said:


> So to fully grasp this, I bought the XB1X and more specifically for SW Battlefront II, but in any case on the 1X leave it on 4K which would upscale, but then the 5040 it would bring it down to 1080 then upscale for a 2nd time to 4K?
> 
> Would this be the best of all options?
> 
> I did play with the settings; Your suggestion vs. 4K. going back and forth a few times. I did notice that in 4K, it showed 4K but in 1080P it showed 8bit, SR, 709.
> 
> So confusing. On a 150" screen little details like this really shows.
> 
> So want the absolute best possible.
> Also considering the mCable thingy


Any 4K material put into XBX will be played as native, if you put in 1080P ccontent it will be upscaled to 4K

I have setting on XBX at 1080P that way when I put in 4K game it switches to 4K and when I put in 1080P I let the epson upscale to 4K

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

merkaba said:


> Having all of these settings is awesome! Thank you for that. Does anyone have experience with these? I'm looking for a settings for watching sports and a separate settings for watching movies. If anyone has any recommendations on which to try for each that would be excellent. Is there a way to save settings?


The projector has 10 memory slots to save settings to.


----------



## WynsWrld98

robc1976 said:


> Thank you man, would love to try those settings!
> 
> Agree, find a good deal why not share with others?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The forum policy I believe is it doesn't allow price talk. I think there is a "Deals" part to the forum but how often would people looking for a projector lamp go look there? I remember at the time the price drop was going on people were talking about it on this 5040/6040 thread so if you look up around Sept 2017 you'll probably see comments about it. That is how I found out about it. But at that time people were stating it was a permanent price drop, not sure where they were getting this info, but it's incorrect since the price drop didn't last long. I was able to snag one and it's genuine OEM box/lamp. It would have been nice if the price drop had been permanent.


----------



## Docj04

Hello all. It's been a while.
I've been a member here for about 10 years and have gained so much from doing so. That said, I hate to ask such a rudimentary level question, but I'm at a loss, and over my head.
I've been enjoying my 5040 since thanksgiving 2016. However, other than some of the simplest settings derived from using the DVE HD basics disc, I've never dialed my PJ to its full potential. 

That said, at this point, is there a database or archive of sorts providing "best" calibration settings?
Even better would be if there is an accepted best methodology (calibration disc, etc.) To dial this thing in. Of course the variables are endless from environment to other components in ones set up, but I really need some guidance for the first step or two.
The HD DVE disc is either to technical, cumbersome and over my head... and/or I'm just too ADD to focus and tackle the task. Not to mention, this hobby is so time consuming, and it's so easy to fall behind the curve, and become overwhelmed. That has sadly admittedly left me Complacent with my picture as is. We all know that's not what this hobby is all about.
I do apologize once again, and am grateful in advance for any help... whether it be links to methodology, actual settings, anything. This owners thread is awesome, but sometimes hard to organize and assimilate the info that I'm looking for.
Sorry for the "out of nowhere" rant/plea.
Thanks, yet again, to everyone here.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Docj04 said:


> Hello all. It's been a while.
> I've been a member here for about 10 years and have gained so much from doing so. That said, I hate to ask such a rudimentary level question, but I'm at a loss, and over my head.
> I've been enjoying my 5040 since thanksgiving 2016. However, other than some of the simplest settings derived from using the DVE HD basics disc, I've never dialed my PJ to its full potential.
> 
> That said, at this point, is there a database or archive of sorts providing "best" calibration settings?
> Even better would be if there is an accepted best methodology (calibration disc, etc.) To dial this thing in. Of course the variables are endless from environment to other components in ones set up, but I really need some guidance for the first step or two.
> The HD DVE disc is either to technical, cumbersome and over my head... and/or I'm just too ADD to focus and tackle the task. Not to mention, this hobby is so time consuming, and it's so easy to fall behind the curve, and become overwhelmed. That has sadly admittedly left me Complacent with my picture as is. We all know that's not what this hobby is all about.
> I do apologize once again, and am grateful in advance for any help... whether it be links to methodology, actual settings, anything. This owners thread is awesome, but sometimes hard to organize and assimilate the info that I'm looking for.
> Sorry for the "out of nowhere" rant/plea.
> Thanks, yet again, to everyone here.
> 
> Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk



[Giant can of worms opened]. Here is the list of settings that have been shared. There might be an updated version that someone can provide. Best method for calibration is very complicated with the emergence of HDR. So unless you want to dive in with both feet, I would try these settings first.


----------



## rboster

Admin deleted a couple of posts due to bickering. Additional clean up of the thread going back to yesterday of posts between a couple of bickering members. Please keep posts to a tech discussion and not personal.


----------



## Tweakophyte

Was there ever any news this projector would or would not support DolbyVision?
Do we know if there are plans to support HDR10+?

At what point would either of those become bandwidth constrained on this projector? I was thinking that maybe they had a smaller footprint, and therefore could pass more chroma info. Hopefully they don't require MORE bandwidth.

Thanks,


----------



## dholmes54

where can I find a fat32 thumb drive to do this update?


----------



## Dominic Chan

dholmes54 said:


> where can I find a fat32 thumb drive to do this update?


Just format your thumb drive as fat32 (most likely the default).


----------



## dholmes54

thxs I'm not much of a computer guy.


----------



## evilaviator

dholmes54 said:


> thxs I'm not much of a computer guy.


Just right click on the thumb stick drive from the list of available drives and select the format option. Choose the fat 32 option. That easy.


----------



## sddp

Juiced46 said:


> If you are not using a Linker. The Xbox is sending a 1080P signal upscaled to 4k. The Epson is not upscaling it, unless you leave the system set to 1080p (without a Linker) the X sends 1080p and the Epson has the ability to scale it with with 4K enhancement. Without a Linker you cannot get 4K gaming with the X. It does not start with a 4K signal and downgrade. The system detects your display cannot do it so it sends 1080p.


OK thanks

So would getting a linker make that much of a difference or is it just subtle?


----------



## Theatrebuilder

*Apple TV 4K*



Shane M said:


> I've got the 5040UB, and the Apple TV using Plex. 1080P looks fantastic. Question - if I upgrade to the Apple TV 4K, does the 5040 accept the 4K HDR signal from the ATV4K and display properly? (of course, I know it down-rez to 1080P/Faux-K, but does it accept the 4K signal + HDR)? Any tricks with settings to get the HDR working?
> 
> Thanks!!!


Shane


I installed an Apple TV 4K unit this past weekend and HDR would not work with the 5040 out of the box; this seems to be because the Apple TV defaults to 4K 60Hz HDR, which the 5040 can't handle.


If you manually change the video resolution setting on the Apple TV to 4K 24Hz HDR, then the 5040 should accept the signal. However, I found that the pull-down from 60Hz had a few stutters, and changing the resolution again to 4K 30Hz HDR displayed much more smoothly.


Hope this helps?


----------



## robc1976

sddp said:


> OK thanks
> 
> So would getting a linker make that much of a difference or is it just subtle?


Its huge, night and day because of the HDR, 2020 color space ect

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

bigbadbob said:


> Looking at a Seymour curved AT screen. Anybody using a curved screen with their 5040?


Hello Bigbadbob,

I bought the 16:9 Elite Lunette 2 curve 1.1 gain, 120 inch w/o a Panaromic Lens utilizing a Epson 6040 and I actually love it, esp with the 1.11 f/w projection upgrade...Some would prefer 2:35 screen but I watch a lot of sports. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

robc1976 said:


> Its huge, night and day because of the HDR, 2020 color space ect
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Please forgive me if this has been previously discussed, but I've had issues with my Linker since I've upgraded to f/w 1.11. Thoughts anyone???

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Juiced46

sddp said:


> OK thanks
> 
> So would getting a linker make that much of a difference or is it just subtle?


I feel the upgrade is worth it. Just look at my with and without Linker pictures. 



Azekecse said:


> Please forgive me if this has been previously discussed, but I've had issues with my Linker since I've upgraded to f/w 1.11. Thoughts anyone???
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Azeke, what kind of issues and what firmware are you using on your Linker?


----------



## Azekecse

Juiced46 said:


> I feel the upgrade is worth it. Just look at my with and without Linker pictures.
> 
> Azeke, what kind of issues and what firmware are you using on your Linker?


 Thanks Juiced46 for your expeditious response. The new Linker f/w 25, I didn't have issues with 19A. 

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Juiced46

Azekecse said:


> Thanks Juiced46 for your expeditious response. The new Linker f/w 25, I didn't have issues with 19A.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


What kind of issues are you having?


----------



## nskip

*Color Banding*

Hello, 

I'm concerned about color banding on the 5040UB since the projector doesn't support 100% DCI-P3 color space for color modes other then Digital Cinema. Has anyone seen any color banding while watching UHD movies (with or without HDR content) for any color modes other then Digital Cinema ? More specifically, color banding attributable to the projector rather then the source material.

Please let me know as this is the only thing holding me back from purchasing 5040UB at the moment, thanks!

Nskip


----------



## Hal_M

Not sure if this problem has been mentioned before, but my 5040UB seems to suddenly be having a problem recognizing HDR signals from my Sony X800 4K Blu-ray player. It has worked flawlessly for months, now all of a sudden when I put a 4K HDR disc in, it reads it as SDR. Sometimes I have to eject and reload the disc 3, 4 or 5 times before it recognizes the HDR signal. I thought maybe it was the Sony (still might be), but if I turn off the Epson and turn it back on, it instantly recognizes that the disc is HDR. 

Anyone have any thoughts on why this is suddenly happening and what I might do about it? 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Dave Harper

Tweakophyte said:


> Was there ever any news this projector would or would not support DolbyVision?
> 
> Do we know if there are plans to support HDR10+?
> 
> 
> 
> At what point would either of those become bandwidth constrained on this projector? I was thinking that maybe they had a smaller footprint, and therefore could pass more chroma info. Hopefully they don't require MORE bandwidth.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,



No current consumer projector can support DolbyVision or HDR10+ because it needs dynamic metadata to change the images on a scene by scene basis. To do that you need some sort of sensor to read the peak lumens and other factors of the display system. This is fairly easy to do with flat panels, but projectors not so much, especially they're matched with so many different rooms and screens for any one model. 

They would have to build in a sensor on the front of the projector for real time feedback. It's possible but probably won't happen for awhile. Too many variables and it still probably wouldn't be as good as a flat panel could do it. 




nskip said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm concerned about color banding on the 5040UB since the projector doesn't support 100% DCI-P3 color space for color modes other then Digital Cinema. Has anyone seen any color banding while watching UHD movies (with or without HDR content) for any color modes other then Digital Cinema ? More specifically, color banding attributable to the projector rather then the source material.
> 
> Please let me know as this is the only thing holding me back from purchasing 5040UB at the moment, thanks!
> 
> Nskip



Support for DCI-P3 shouldn't have anything to do with banding. That's just a filter that rolls into place in the light path when you're in Digital Cinema or Cinema modes. Banding is usually caused by using too low of a bit depth rate, like 8 bit vs 10 or 12, or poor dithering from the higher ones down to 8. There are some other issues that can cause banding, but they're not as prevalent. 

The 5040 could have banding, mostly due to its limited 10.2Gbps HDMI input bandwidth if the signal has to be dithered down to be able to be accepted by the 5040. 



jeremyh8 said:


> I am a total noob and am looking for some help. I have been doing a lot of reading in this forum and i realize the best option is for me to do my own calibration in home. I have xbox one x, nvidia shield going thru hdfury vertex to the 5040ub. What are some decent options to buy or rent that i can use to do a calibration? Is there anything specific to my projector to help know what specific settings on the projector need to be updated? i have the latest 111 firmware running already and set to auto bright for HDR with nothing else changed.



I would buy the Ryan Masciola UHD HDR Test Patterns Suite UHD Bluray or pay for the download (I prefer this as it's updated often, but you need a source that can play the files from a thumb drive). Just google search it.


----------



## nskip

Thanks Dave, I'm a bit of a noob on this topic so please bare with me...

I have an Oppo 203 player...as I understand it the Oppo (or Phillips or Panasonic UHD players) convert the UHD datastream to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8 bit Rec 709 for SDR content, or 4k24 / 4:2:2 / 12 bit Rec2020 for HDR content...both of which the Epson 5040 supports via 10Gbps HDMI chipset.

In both these cases I don't see why dithering is required, and if that's the case it should not be a contributing factor to color banding...agree ?

I also have an older Panasonic Plasma TCP65zt60 display which does exhibit banding from time to time on 1080p content coming from the Oppo. I did a little digging and discovered that this TV supports 99% of the Rec.709 color space however only 72% of the DCI-P3 color space. 

So my thinking went something like this...if Epson only supports a percentage of the DCI-P3 color space for majority of its color modes (much like the Panasonic display does at 72%) then it's possible you could see color banding on SDR content converted to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8 bit Rec 709.

Likewise, for HDR content converted to 4k24 / 4:2:2 / 12 bit Rec2020, if I'm not viewing in Digital Cinema mode then the projector is only displaying a portion of the DCI-P3 color space, and therefore it's possible I could see color banding much like I do on the Panasonic.

However, after reading your response I gather that color bit depth (8 bit vs 10 bit) takes precedent over the percentage of DCI-P3 color space supported by the display. In other words, if a display only supports 8 bits color depth it doesn't matter what color space it supports it's still limited to 2^8 x 2^8 x 2^8 = 16,777,216 colors. And therefore banding could still be an issue.

Conversely, for HDR content on the Epson using 12 bit color depth chances for banding should be minimized irrespective of whether its supporting 100% DCI-P3 color space (Digital Cinema mode) or a portion thereof (all the other color modes). Side note, as I understand it UHD BluRay standard specifies a maximum 10 bit color depth, which equates 2^10 x 2^10 x 2^10 = 1,073,741,824 colors...so the Epson's 12 bit depth on HDR UHD content really boils down to 10 bits based on limitations of source material.

All that to say, I'm still confused on this topic and still uncertain about whether to purchase the 5040UB. Color banding is a big bad gotcha for me, going to do my best to avoid it. And based on what you're saying it sounds like there's a chance you'll see color banding for SDR content at 8 bits. On top of which I'm still not sure if you'll see it for HDR content using a color mode other then Digital Cinema mode.

Thoughts ?

Sources: 

Viche, 10/12/2016
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ial-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-59.html

Acoustic Frontiers UHD 101: Demystifying 4K, UHD Blu Ray, wide color gamut, HDR, 4:4:4, 18Gbps and the rest!, 03/9/2016
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/

ConnecTEDDD, 02/23/2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...lasma-color-grading-calibrating-3d-lut-2.html


----------



## birdztudio

hi all, sorry that i can't read through all the pages
- i've got my projector calibrated per my satisfaction, if i'd upgrade the firmware will it screw up with my existing set up / memories?
- and if not where can i be getting that updated firmware (i guess it's ver.1.11, correct?)

thank you all


----------



## robc1976

Azekecse said:


> Please forgive me if this has been previously discussed, but I've had issues with my Linker since I've upgraded to f/w 1.11. Thoughts anyone???
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


I am on 1.11 and totally fine? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

evilaviator said:


> Just right click on the thumb stick drive from the list of available drives and select the format option. Choose the fat 32 option. That easy.


thxs


----------



## Shane M

Theatrebuilder said:


> Shane
> 
> 
> I installed an Apple TV 4K unit this past weekend and HDR would not work with the 5040 out of the box; this seems to be because the Apple TV defaults to 4K 60Hz HDR, which the 5040 can't handle.
> 
> 
> If you manually change the video resolution setting on the Apple TV to 4K 24Hz HDR, then the 5040 should accept the signal. However, I found that the pull-down from 60Hz had a few stutters, and changing the resolution again to 4K 30Hz HDR displayed much more smoothly.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps?


After my post, I ended up picking up the 4K. Based on previous posts I was able to successfully set it up at 4K 24Hz HDR. I was able to successfully see on the PJ that it was receiving it. However, I had a lot of issues with stutters on the ATV and color banding as well. It was rough. I went back to 4K SDR and it was much smoother and no more banding. I'll try the 30Hz setting and see what happens. That said, I'm also using Plex and having a lot of difficulty getting any 4K content to display on it with the ATV4K, so right now I'm not sure that 4K is really helping me at all, and potentially hurting  

To my point, with Apple TV 4K set at 24Hz, does anyone else see serious banding issues? Really bad, in the menu, aerial screensavers, etc?


----------



## Shane M

Another attempt and I'm still struggling with the ATV4K. I have successfully got pictures at 4K HDR 24Hz and 30Hz, but both have significant banding that is not present in SDR. I tried taking some photos in 1080P/HDR, 4K/HDR and 4K/SDR, up close in the menu and to me, 4K/SDR looks better than HDR- although perhaps that's because SDR seems so much brighter even in the whites. It seems like HDR just throws less light overall, but not providing a truly higher dynamic range.


----------



## jsrdlr

Juiced46 said:


> I believe there is a 60 or 90 day bulb warranty. If you are outside that period, I would call Epson anyway. I had success with a 1 yr old bulb that blew at 900 hours. They sent me a new one. Its worth a shot


Thanks for the tip. I called them and they did indeed agree to send me a replacement lamp!


----------



## jsrdlr

Shane M said:


> Another attempt and I'm still struggling with the ATV4K. I have successfully got pictures at 4K HDR 24Hz and 30Hz, but both have significant banding that is not present in SDR. I tried taking some photos in 1080P/HDR, 4K/HDR and 4K/SDR, up close in the menu and to me, 4K/SDR looks better than HDR- although perhaps that's because SDR seems so much brighter even in the whites. It seems like HDR just throws less light overall, but not providing a truly higher dynamic range.


Wish I could help you as we've had no real issues with the ATV4K/HDR. We have ours set at 24Hz. I might bump it up to 30 just to see how it does. We've watched Wonder Woman streamed and Kingsman with no obvious banding or quality issues.


----------



## Shane M

jsrdlr said:


> Wish I could help you as we've had no real issues with the ATV4K/HDR. We have ours set at 24Hz. I might bump it up to 30 just to see how it does. We've watched Wonder Woman streamed and Kingsman with no obvious banding or quality issues.


Where is your media residing? Did you buy from iTunes? And, anything between your ATV and 5040?


----------



## jsrdlr

Shane M said:


> Where is your media residing? Did you buy from iTunes? And, anything between your ATV and 5040?


4k media is streamed. Yes, purchased from iTunes. Integra DRX3 is between the ATV and PJ.


----------



## Shane M

jsrdlr said:


> 4k media is streamed. Yes, purchased from iTunes. Integra DRX3 is between the ATV and PJ.


Interesting. Have you seen the LA observatory aerial screensaver with your settings? It's during sunset and there is some serious banding. I have an HDMI switch between, so I may try taking it out to see if that helps.


----------



## Docj04

jwhn said:


> [Giant can of worms opened]. Here is the list of settings that have been shared. There might be an updated version that someone can provide. Best method for calibration is very complicated with the emergence of HDR. So unless you want to dive in with both feet, I would try these settings first.


Thanks for this. Sincerely.

Why the "can of worms", though?

I look forward to a cup of coffee and my remote this weekend to see if I can get this guy dialed a little better.


----------



## jwhn

Docj04 said:


> Thanks for this. Sincerely.
> 
> Why the "can of worms", though?
> 
> I look forward to a cup of coffee and my remote this weekend to see if I can get this guy dialed a little better.


 I just meant that maybe half of this very large thread is people discussing how to get their projector dialed in a bit better. Getting HDR dialed in poses a lot of challenges and trade-offs. I think your options to get a picture you are happy with range from:
- hiring a professional calibrator
- doing your own calibration (e.g, with a meter and calibration software)
- using the settings on this forum as a starting point and then making adjustments by eye and/or patterns
- Eyeballing it. ; ) 

Sounds like the 3rd option might be the best option if you want to do it over a cup of coffee this weekend.


----------



## bytebuster

Guys, seeing some threads pop up complaining about power issues with the 5040s and that epson customer service reps may be admitting there is an issue. I don't see too many complaints on this thread. Was wondering if this is something to be concerned about. I just picked up my projector a couple of weeks back and am still within the return window


----------



## jwhn

birdztudio said:


> hi all, sorry that i can't read through all the pages
> - i've got my projector calibrated per my satisfaction, if i'd upgrade the firmware will it screw up with my existing set up / memories?
> - and if not where can i be getting that updated firmware (i guess it's ver.1.11, correct?)
> 
> thank you all


This should answer your first question. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-418.html#post55441288

And here was the first result I got from my google search "Epson 5040UB 1.11 firmware" 

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

You will also see instructions on how to install over the last 5-10 pages (so you don't have to read all the pages).


----------



## Juiced46

birdztudio said:


> hi all, sorry that i can't read through all the pages
> - i've got my projector calibrated per my satisfaction, if i'd upgrade the firmware will it screw up with my existing set up / memories?
> - and if not where can i be getting that updated firmware (i guess it's ver.1.11, correct?)
> 
> thank you all


Basically all of the "HDR modes" in the Dynamic Range menu get shifted down. I.E. 1 is now 2, 2 is now 3 and so on. So no it will not screw up your exisiting setup. Also the firmware will not erase your settings. 

1.11 is the newest version. You can get it from here....

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805



jsrdlr said:


> Thanks for the tip. I called them and they did indeed agree to send me a replacement lamp!



Great news! Glad it worked out for you.


----------



## bigmixx

Shane M said:


> After my post, I ended up picking up the 4K. Based on previous posts I was able to successfully set it up at 4K 24Hz HDR. I was able to successfully see on the PJ that it was receiving it. However, I had a lot of issues with stutters on the ATV and color banding as well. It was rough. I went back to 4K SDR and it was much smoother and no more banding. I'll try the 30Hz setting and see what happens. That said, I'm also using Plex and having a lot of difficulty getting any 4K content to display on it with the ATV4K, so right now I'm not sure that 4K is really helping me at all, and potentially hurting
> 
> To my point, with Apple TV 4K set at 24Hz, does anyone else see serious banding issues? Really bad, in the menu, aerial screensavers, etc?


Did you update the software? I've had it for about 2 weeks now using it on my Samsung 4k set and it's the most difficult frustrating piece of electronic equipment I've ever owned. What I've found is changing the video settings affect the menu's as well. It runs best on the 60hz HDR or SDR setting. When you lower the framerate you introduce the stuttering/judder when moving around the menus.

If you updated the software, you should have the Match Content setting. Set both of those to On and leave the main setting at whatever the Apple TV set when you first set it up. Mine is set at 60Hz HDR and I don't have any stuttering or banding with the Match Content settings turned on.


----------



## Azekecse

Juiced46 said:


> What kind of issues are you having?


Thanks again Juiced, I will need to check again this weekend and get back to you.

On a secondary note, does anyone think it's better to run the Linker at the XB1X or at the projector? Any thoughts including pros and cons, please.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Tweakophyte

Dave Harper said:


> No current consumer projector can support DolbyVision or HDR10+ because it needs dynamic metadata to change the images on a scene by scene basis. To do that you need some sort of sensor to read the peak lumens and other factors of the display system. This is fairly easy to do with flat panels, but projectors not so much, especially they're matched with so many different rooms and screens for any one model.
> 
> They would have to build in a sensor on the front of the projector for real time feedback. It's possible but probably won't happen for awhile. Too many variables and it still probably wouldn't be as good as a flat panel could do it.


I didn't realize the dynamic forms of HDR required a sensor. I thought maybe it just knew based on a setting what max output would be and would re-map the meta-data given that constraint, where a PJ that can peak at 300 nits would take a signal asking for 800 nits and map it to 80% of 300 nits (or some logarithmic mapping based on how our eyes perceive light). If the next scene asked for 500 nits it would do 50%, etc. 

Does this mean if we want a projector we are ultimately stuck with HDR10 and awkward implementations? Any thoughts on a better HDR experience for projectors? Is there where the 4K player can help?

Thanks,


----------



## viperlogic

Tweakophyte said:


> I didn't realize the dynamic forms of HDR required a sensor. I thought maybe it just knew based on a setting what max output would be and would re-map the meta-data given that constraint, where a PJ that can peak at 300 nits would take a signal asking for 800 nits and map it to 80% of 300 nits (or some logarithmic mapping based on how our eyes perceive light). If the next scene asked for 500 nits it would do 50%, etc.
> 
> Does this mean if we want a projector we are ultimately stuck with HDR10 and awkward implementations? Any thoughts on a better HDR experience for projectors? Is there where the 4K player can help?
> 
> Thanks,


Spend time on getting the BT.2390 tone mapping dialled in for best HDR experience. Also have a low diffuse white point to leave room for spectral highlights. Have to remember, projectors can never give same experience as a panel as just dont have the brightness, barely a fraction of it!


----------



## Shane M

bigmixx said:


> Did you update the software? I've had it for about 2 weeks now using it on my Samsung 4k set and it's the most difficult frustrating piece of electronic equipment I've ever owned. What I've found is changing the video settings affect the menu's as well. It runs best on the 60hz HDR or SDR setting. When you lower the framerate you introduce the stuttering/judder when moving around the menus.
> 
> If you updated the software, you should have the Match Content setting. Set both of those to On and leave the main setting at whatever the Apple TV set when you first set it up. Mine is set at 60Hz HDR and I don't have any stuttering or banding with the Match Content settings turned on.


Yes I've updated the software. Using it on your Samsung will be a different experience than on the 5040 which doesn't have the same HDR capability. You can't go above HDR/30Hz with the 5040. When you do, you get the stuttering you mentioned, and also banding. For now, 4K/SDR is my favorite setting, although I want to compare more against 1080P/HDR.


----------



## seplant

bytebuster said:


> Guys, seeing some threads pop up complaining about power issues with the 5040s and that epson customer service reps may be admitting there is an issue. I don't see too many complaints on this thread. Was wondering if this is something to be concerned about. I just picked up my projector a couple of weeks back and am still within the return window


There have been many reports of these projectors not firing up initially and the fan running on high for a minute or two before eventually firing up and then running normally. My projector did this frequently, but I just got a replacement from Epson for a different issue. I'll be watching for this issue on my replacement. 

There have also been reports of some projectors not starting up at all, presumably because of failed power supplies. Hard to say if there is any connection between the failure to fire up initially and the completely failed power supplies. 

The main thing to remember is that Epson will treat you right no matter what issues you might have. Their support is second to none. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Hal_M

Has anyone else had issues with the Epson 5040 accepting the HDR handshake from their 4K player? Mine was working fine, no changes to the setup, but now it almost consistently reads an HDR signal as SDR. I have to switch the image to my ROKU, then back to the 4K player to get the Epson to recognize the HDR signal. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Wondering if this is a sign of something that might get worse, or something that can easily be rectified. I'm using the Sony X800 4K Blu-ray player. This just started happening about a week ago.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Dave Harper said:


> No current consumer projector can support DolbyVision or HDR10+ because it needs dynamic metadata to change the images on a scene by scene basis. To do that you need some sort of sensor to read the peak lumens and other factors of the display system. This is fairly easy to do with flat panels, but projectors not so much, especially they're matched with so many different rooms and screens for any one model.
> 
> They would have to build in a sensor on the front of the projector for real time feedback. It's possible but probably won't happen for awhile. Too many variables and it still probably wouldn't be as good as a flat panel could do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Support for DCI-P3 shouldn't have anything to do with banding. That's just a filter that rolls into place in the light path when you're in Digital Cinema or Cinema modes. Banding is usually caused by using too low of a bit depth rate, like 8 bit vs 10 or 12, or poor dithering from the higher ones down to 8. There are some other issues that can cause banding, but they're not as prevalent.
> 
> The 5040 could have banding, mostly due to its limited 10.2Gbps HDMI input bandwidth if the signal has to be dithered down to be able to be accepted by the 5040.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would buy the Ryan Masciola UHD HDR Test Patterns Suite UHD Bluray or pay for the download (I prefer this as it's updated often, but you need a source that can play the files from a thumb drive). Just google search it.


Do you need a meter to use that software you recommended

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## murof

seplant said:


> There have been many reports of these projectors not firing up initially and the fan running on high for a minute or two before eventually firing up and then running normally. My projector did this frequently, but I just got a replacement from Epson for a different issue. I'll be watching for this issue on my replacement.
> 
> There have also been reports of some projectors not starting up at all, presumably because of failed power supplies. Hard to say if there is any connection between the failure to fire up initially and the completely failed power supplies.
> 
> The main thing to remember is that Epson will treat you right no matter what issues you might have. Their support is second to none.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


I just had this issue with under 100 hours on my bulb. I came down to the theater room and had no power to the projector. Tested the outlet and no problems. I called Epson, they put me through to some higher tier of tech support. That person confirmed that this is an issue they have been seeing and they are still studying it. He claimed they would overnight me a new projector, and he did. However, I am not so sure its brand new after reading through all the comments on people returning theirs. It had no power cord in the box, just the remote and projector, though it did look new to me. Anyway, I was worried about the issue but they took care of me.


----------



## sigma722

rboster said:


> Admin deleted a couple of posts due to bickering. Additional clean up of the thread going back to yesterday of posts between a couple of bickering members. Please keep posts to a tech discussion and not personal.


Is price talk not allowed if it's for accessories/replacement bulbs in this case?

I was under the impression that the price talk rule was for the projector itself which generally speaking might differ dealer to dealer, and you don't want to get into issues there.


----------



## SeattleHTGuy

*Bulb question.*



sigma722 said:


> Is price talk not allowed if it's for accessories/replacement bulbs in this case?
> 
> I was under the impression that the price talk rule was for the projector itself which generally speaking might differ dealer to dealer, and you don't want to get into issues there.


I am one of the people who got bleeped. The issue about price is probably best answered by a few points.

1). AVS has an associated dealer. They can get good prices on a lot of material, including bulbs. If you want a bulb I’d start there. It will be OEM. 
2). In the years I have been on this forum, etiquette and policy have asked that all users frown from stating specific “I got it prices” and where. Prices change and it takes the thread off topic on set up and tech solutions. It’s not totally disallowed to compare prices, especially when looking at cost benefit of other pieces of equipment or simply comparing value between say an Epson or a Sony, etc... 
3). Bulbs are notorious price problems/bickering points. People argue a bulb is used, not OEM, refurbed, actually flat out a knock-off, etc... It can get ugly. Amazon is notorious through the partners program of not totally vetting OEM claims as is E-Bay. 

So...... those are some of the reasons price discussions, even on bulbs can get weird. 

Finally, if someone gets a good deal and wishes to post, one could skip the price and just PM anyone interested who responds to your deal. Then, off-thread you could debate whether it’s a real deal or a fake....

Just my thoughts...


----------



## SALadder22FF

So is there any type of calibration we can do with the files without the meter?

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

SeattleHTGuy said:


> Finally, if someone gets a good deal and wishes to post, one could skip the price and just PM anyone interested who responds to your deal. Then, off-thread you could debate whether it’s a real deal or a fake....
> 
> Just my thoughts...


Very good point and that is pretty much when the bickering started. If you are going to post you got a deal, but not say from where. Then do not post about it at all if you do not want to say. On the flip side, it also helps if someone bought one and finds out it is not OEM, then they can atleast alert other potential buyers to stay away from that particular site/seller. This is why we ask questions. In the end we are all here to help out each other.


----------



## Dave Harper

SALadder22FF said:


> Do you need a meter to use that software you recommended
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


There are a bunch of patterns you can use by eye to set like contrast, brightness, color, tint, sharpness, etc. Of course having a meter opens you up to many more options to calibrate!




Tweakophyte said:


> I didn't realize the dynamic forms of HDR required a sensor. I thought maybe it just knew based on a setting what max output would be and would re-map the meta-data given that constraint, where a PJ that can peak at 300 nits would take a signal asking for 800 nits and map it to 80% of 300 nits (or some logarithmic mapping based on how our eyes perceive light). If the next scene asked for 500 nits it would do 50%, etc.
> 
> Does this mean if we want a projector we are ultimately stuck with HDR10 and awkward implementations? Any thoughts on a better HDR experience for projectors? Is there where the 4K player can help?
> 
> Thanks,


The issue is that everyone uses a different screen and their rooms are different so even if a projector does 300 nits, a high gain screen will make you perceive higher than that. 

I think they could do similar to what you're saying, but it wouldn't be ideal and Dolby is supposed to certify each display for DolbyVision and they won't do that on consumer projectors with so many variables involved. Maybe they can do like you're saying and call it "DolbyVision Lite" or something without having to be certified. 

There was a whole thread on this topic not long ago. Search "DolbyVision on Projectors" and I'm sure it'll pop up. 



nskip said:


> Thanks Dave, I'm a bit of a noob on this topic so please bare with me...
> 
> I have an Oppo 203 player...as I understand it the Oppo (or Phillips or Panasonic UHD players) convert the UHD datastream to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8 bit Rec 709 for SDR content, or 4k24 / 4:2:2 / 12 bit Rec2020 for HDR content...both of which the Epson 5040 supports via 10Gbps HDMI chipset.
> 
> In both these cases I don't see why dithering is required, and if that's the case it should not be a contributing factor to color banding...agree ?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> I also have an older Panasonic Plasma TCP65zt60 display which does exhibit banding from time to time on 1080p content coming from the Oppo. I did a little digging and discovered that this TV supports 99% of the Rec.709 color space however only 72% of the DCI-P3 color space.
> 
> So my thinking went something like this...if Epson only supports a percentage of the DCI-P3 color space for majority of its color modes (much like the Panasonic display does at 72%) then it's possible you could see color banding on SDR content converted to 4k24 / 4:4:4 / 8 bit Rec 709.
> 
> Likewise, for HDR content converted to 4k24 / 4:2:2 / 12 bit Rec2020, if I'm not viewing in Digital Cinema mode then the projector is only displaying a portion of the DCI-P3 color space, and therefore it's possible I could see color banding much like I do on the Panasonic.
> 
> However, after reading your response I gather that color bit depth (8 bit vs 10 bit) takes precedent over the percentage of DCI-P3 color space supported by the display. In other words, if a display only supports 8 bits color depth it doesn't matter what color space it supports it's still limited to 2^8 x 2^8 x 2^8 = 16,777,216 colors. And therefore banding could still be an issue.
> 
> Conversely, for HDR content on the Epson using 12 bit color depth chances for banding should be minimized irrespective of whether its supporting 100% DCI-P3 color space (Digital Cinema mode) or a portion thereof (all the other color modes). Side note, as I understand it UHD BluRay standard specifies a maximum 10 bit color depth, which equates 2^10 x 2^10 x 2^10 = 1,073,741,824 colors...so the Epson's 12 bit depth on HDR UHD content really boils down to 10 bits based on limitations of source material.
> 
> 
> 
> All that to say, I'm still confused on this topic and still uncertain about whether to purchase the 5040UB. Color banding is a big bad gotcha for me, going to do my best to avoid it. And based on what you're saying it sounds like there's a chance you'll see color banding for SDR content at 8 bits. On top of which I'm still not sure if you'll see it for HDR content using a color mode other then Digital Cinema mode.
> 
> Thoughts ?
> 
> Sources:
> 
> Viche, 10/12/2016
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ial-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-59.html
> 
> Acoustic Frontiers UHD 101: Demystifying 4K, UHD Blu Ray, wide color gamut, HDR, 4:4:4, 18Gbps and the rest!, 03/9/2016
> http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/
> 
> ConnecTEDDD, 02/23/2014
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...lasma-color-grading-calibrating-3d-lut-2.html



Yes I agree on the not needing dithering in the case you mention. 

I think the key is this from the Acoustic Frontiers link:










Rec709 SDR at 8 bit has a smaller gamut to work in, so 8 bit isn't so bad in this color space where banding is concerned. BT2020 on the other hand, at least for now, goes out further to P3 color gamut, which is further so it needs to support a wider range of colors and therefore should use something higher than 8 bit to avoid banding easily. I would say 10 bit is sufficient for this. Now if you go to full BT2020 I am sure 12 bit will be needed.


----------



## xxrb1

*Update firmware to 1.11 does not work*

Hi,

I tried to update the firmware on my projector from 1.04 to 1.11, but it does not work. I got all the lights on for the 75 seconds as described in the procedure, but the projector shutdown after 75 seconds and the lights never flashed. Of course I check my firmware version and it is still V104. I already tried 2 different usb keys, formated in FAT or FAT32. I called the support and they proposed me to get a refurbished unit. My projector has only 30 hours on the lamp and has no issue at all, as far as I know. So I wonder whether somebody has some ideas on how to get the firmware updated in my case. I am not really confident getting a refurbished unit for such an issue.

FYI, I read that the new firmware add a new HDR setting that makes the picture brighter. This is the reason I am trying to update the firmware.

Thanks


----------



## old corps

xxrb1 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I tried to update the firmware on my projector from 1.04 to 1.11, but it does not work. I got all the lights on for the 75 seconds as described in the procedure, but the projector shutdown after 75 seconds and the lights never flashed. Of course I check my firmware version and it is still V104. I already tried 2 different usb keys, formated in FAT or FAT32. I called the support and they proposed me to get a refurbished unit. My projector has only 30 hours on the lamp and has no issue at all, as far as I know. So I wonder whether somebody has some ideas on how to get the firmware updated in my case. I am not really confident getting a refurbished unit for such an issue.
> 
> FYI, I read that the new firmware add a new HDR setting that makes the picture brighter. This is the reason I am trying to update the firmware.
> 
> Thanks



I'm not familiar with the "75 seconds as described" that you mention. After downloading the update to your USB drive & installing it into the USB port hold down the power button on the projector (NOT the remote) and disconnect the power cord. As soon as all the lights come on release the power button. It'll take a few minutes to download. When the projector turns off the firmware should be updated and you may then turn the projector back on. 
Hope this helps! I wish the updates could be done directly via the internet but I'm FAR from an expert with computers and I managed to get mine done without any problem. Good luck.
Ed


----------



## mgound

Hi All,

*HELP WITH NEW PROJECTOR SCREEN FOR A NOOBIE*
I'm relatively new to the whole home theater/projector market. Moved into a house with a light-controlled media room last January, and immediately purchased an Epson 5040UB. The previous owners of the home left their old projector screen when I bought the house, and they told me they built it themselves. Therefore, I have no idea the brand nor what to do now that I need to essentially replace the screen. It's a fixed frame 146" diagonal screen with white material, and unfortunately, I now need to figure out the best way to replace the screen after it was damaged while cleaning it. Long story, but I was trying to clean the screen with a kit they recommended at Best Buy and now the screen has a noticeably large black spot in the middle of it. Needless to say, I need to figure out the best way to replace the screen. I've seen several posts on this site where people buy the projector screen material (instead of the whole frame), which got me thinking that I may be able to replace the screen material with some new material. 

My current setup: large dedicated home-theater room that's completely light-controlled. Although, I'd prefer to be able to watch the projector with the lights on, as I mainly use it to watch sports on my DirecTV box, stream netflix on my apple tv 4K, and play games on my Xbox One X. The room is pretty big with high ceilings and a long throw distance of approximately 26 feet. 

A few questions for you all in regards to replacing the screen:
1.) What type of material would you recommend for the Epson at this long throw distance? Any particular and affordable screens you'd recommend for the Epson 5040? 

2.) The current screen setup is a fixed frame with black felt along the sides. I'm not quite sure if I can just replace the screen material (hopefully at a cheaper cost), or if I need to buy a whole new screen. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm not trying to spend much more than $1,000 on a new screen unless I absolutely have to, and based on my research it appears I could acquire some replacement screen material for much cheaper than that price point.

3.) I've been reading a good bit about ALR screens and am curious if anyone on here has any experience using an ALR screen with the Epson 5040UB. If so, please do share any suggestions regarding which screen you think would work best with my setup.

4.) Lastly, is there a recommended color (gray, white, or any other color/type) to pair with the projector with my current setup? What kind of a screen gain should I be shooting for? Still trying to wrap my head around how screen gain plays into the projection, but am planning on looking more into this. 

Any help regarding screens to pair with the Epson at a 25-26' throw distance in the 150" range would be much appreciated. Apologies for the long post and thank you in advance for your input on this topic.


----------



## simonk83

Hi everyone 

Fiiinnnnaaalllly got my theater room finished and the 9300 (which is the 6040 equivalent?) installed and set up. Haven't had a chance to play with the settings or calibrate really, but I'm starting to pick through this thread.

I'll be watching movies (UHD and "regular" 1080p) mostly through a Vero4K (I have an Nvidia Shield, but bought the Vero specifically as it handles switching colourspace correctly, which the Shield still stubbornly refuses to do), some Netflix, and gaming through a PS4 Pro. I've only just realised the issues with the Pro and this PJ (in the lack of HDR at 4K which is a bit of a bummer but I'll survive).

Just wondering if people still recommend these "Harpervision" settings all these months later? http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017, and if so do these settings also apply if you're watching SDR content, or is it only to be used when viewing HDR material?

Or is there a better selection of settings to go with?

Also, as this is my first projector and I'm completely clueless, am I correct in thinking that I need to have several presets set up? One for SDR and one for HDR, and I need to remember to switch to the appropriate one when watching the relevant content?


----------



## knmlee

mgound said:


> Hi All,
> 
> *HELP WITH NEW PROJECTOR SCREEN FOR A NOOBIE*
> 
> 3.) I've been reading a good bit about ALR screens and am curious if anyone on here has any experience using an ALR screen with the Epson 5040UB. If so, please do share any suggestions regarding which screen you think would work best with my setup.
> .


I just bought the 5040UBe and a Screen Innovations Solo Pro screen with their Slate 1.2 material. My room is not light controlled and I wanted to be able to watch sports in the afternoon on weekends in addition to movies in the evening. So far, I’m pretty happy with this combination. The Slate can’t perform miracles, but it is looks pretty great for both of my use cases. In my previous house, I had a Stewart screen using their Firehawk material. It was also pretty great, but I think the Slate does a better job with more ambient light present.

Good luck with your decision...


----------



## xxrb1

old corps said:


> I'm not familiar with the "75 seconds as described" that you mention. After downloading the update to your USB drive & installing it into the USB port hold down the power button on the projector (NOT the remote) and disconnect the power cord. As soon as all the lights come on release the power button. It'll take a few minutes to download. When the projector turns off the firmware should be updated and you may then turn the projector back on.
> Hope this helps! I wish the updates could be done directly via the internet but I'm FAR from an expert with computers and I managed to get mine done without any problem. Good luck.
> Ed


I guess when the process is working, all the details of the procedure are not really important .

Here is the Epson official procedure: http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf

That confirms what you did and what I did too. However, in my case the lights never started to flash and the projector just turns off after 75 seconds. When I turn it on again and check the version via the projector info menu, the version is still 104.

Which kind of usb key did you use?


----------



## xxrb1

simonk83 said:


> Hi everyone
> 
> Fiiinnnnaaalllly got my theater room finished and the 9300 (which is the 6040 equivalent?) installed and set up. Haven't had a chance to play with the settings or calibrate really, but I'm starting to pick through this thread.
> 
> I'll be watching movies (UHD and "regular" 1080p) mostly through a Vero4K (I have an Nvidia Shield, but bought the Vero specifically as it handles switching colourspace correctly, which the Shield still stubbornly refuses to do), some Netflix, and gaming through a PS4 Pro. I've only just realised the issues with the Pro and this PJ (in the lack of HDR at 4K which is a bit of a bummer but I'll survive).
> 
> Just wondering if people still recommend these "Harpervision" settings all these months later? http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017, and if so do these settings also apply if you're watching SDR content, or is it only to be used when viewing HDR material?
> 
> Or is there a better selection of settings to go with?
> 
> Also, as this is my first projector and I'm completely clueless, am I correct in thinking that I need to have several presets set up? One for SDR and one for HDR, and I need to remember to switch to the appropriate one when watching the relevant content?


Same case here, I tried harper vision and oledurt v2 yesterday on John Wick. Oledurt was looking like a black and white movie, and harper vision while looking way better but way too much noisy due to the high lamp mode for my taste. I tried bright cinema, the default mode, and honestly it looks very good. I have a light controlled room, or at least I think I have . I will have my projector calibrated later in the year, so I am not sure I will try more settings in the mean time.

For the preset, unfortunately, not all the parameters can be saved. The ones in advanced signal are permanent and thus need to be changed each time if those parameters are different for your HDR and SDR taste.


----------



## Shane M

I'm sorry if I'm filling up this thread with ATV talk, but I'm still struggling with the ATV4K and my 5040. I've tried every setting. The 5040 will accept 4K/HDR/30Hz and 24Hz. But in both cases, there is a bit of lag in the menu, and more importantly, there is crazy bad dithering and banding in the menu and the aerial screensavers. I'm trying to figure out if this is just a menu issue. I have the ATV set to 4K/SDR but to match DR. When I do this and start content in 4K/HDR, it will switch over, and it looks good - but I can't really tell if I'm just not seeing the issues because the picture is so much more complex than a slight gradient.


----------



## Nexgen76

Okay i looked & can't find how you update the Epson via USB....Epson site seem a little dated this is my first ever Epson projector.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Nexgen76 said:


> Okay i looked & can't find how you update the Epson via USB....Epson site seem a little dated this is my first ever Epson projector.


There’s a link provided in post 12607, 3 posts above yours.


----------



## Nexgen76

Dominic Chan said:


> There’s a link provided in post 12607, 3 posts above yours.


Omg.....thanks so much


----------



## estabanj

xxrb1 said:


> I guess when the process is working, all the details of the procedure are not really important .
> 
> Here is the Epson official procedure: http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf
> 
> That confirms what you did and what I did too. However, in my case the lights never started to flash and the projector just turns off after 75 seconds. When I turn it on again and check the version via the projector info menu, the version is still 104.
> 
> Which kind of usb key did you use?


I had this exact issue when formatting a USB on a Mac for Fat32 using the default settings. I went back reformatted the USB to Fat32 and changed the partition type to MBR (master boot record) then copying the software again.

After that everything worked fine. I hope that helps


----------



## Mr.G

xxrb1 said:


> I guess when the process is working, all the details of the procedure are not really important .
> 
> Here is the Epson official procedure: http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf
> 
> That confirms what you did and what I did too. However, in my case the lights never started to flash and the projector just turns off after 75 seconds. When I turn it on again and check the version via the projector info menu, the version is still 104.
> 
> Which kind of usb key did you use?


It really sounds like the projector is not recognizing your thumb drive.

I used an inexpensive ADATA 64GB thumb (FAT32) drive and the update went without a hitch.


----------



## exm

Nexgen76 said:


> Omg.....thanks so much


Just make sure you use FAT or FAT32 for the USB stick.


----------



## xxrb1

I tried both FAT and FAT32. I will try the MBR solution from a MAC. We never know.


----------



## bytebuster

xxrb1 said:


> I tried both FAT and FAT32. I will try the MBR solution from a MAC. We never know.


I can confirm that the partition type could be the issue.
I remember that the GUID partitioned drive was never getting recognized by the projector.
Delete the existing partition on the drive and re-format it as master boot record. That should work


----------



## old corps

xxrb1 said:


> I guess when the process is working, all the details of the procedure are not really important .
> 
> Here is the Epson official procedure: http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf
> 
> That confirms what you did and what I did too. However, in my case the lights never started to flash and the projector just turns off after 75 seconds. When I turn it on again and check the version via the projector info menu, the version is still 104.
> 
> Which kind of usb key did you use?



A PNY 4G FAT32 I've had laying around for a few years. I had to delete whatever I had on it first then proceeded to do the update with the projector. I've got it sitting right here on my desk with the 1.11 update. I'd mail it to you if you want. Just would like you to return it after you're done with it. Send me a pm if you want me to do that & I'll get it out tomorrow.


Ed


----------



## bytebuster

knmlee said:


> I just bought the 5040UBe and a Screen Innovations Solo Pro screen with their Slate 1.2 material. My room is not light controlled and I wanted to be able to watch sports in the afternoon on weekends in addition to movies in the evening. So far, I’m pretty happy with this combination. The Slate can’t perform miracles, but it is looks pretty great for both of my use cases. In my previous house, I had a Stewart screen using their Firehawk material. It was also pretty great, but I think the Slate does a better job with more ambient light present.
> 
> Good luck with your decision...


I have a similar combination and am happy with it (though I am unhappy about the creases on my motorized SI screen  )
The Stewart firehawk I owned earlier never suffered from this. Both the slate and firehawk are pretty close in performance).

Don't expect miracles though during the day time. Even with shades pulled down during the day, with some ambient light around, u will never get good contrast.
But over time I have gotten used to this. And the epson in bright mode does a good job during the day.


----------



## xxrb1

I might buy a cheap usb key from amazon as the next step. Thanks for the offer to send me yours @old corps.

I tried it all: disk utility on MAC, disk utility on Windows, deleting the partition first, then making sure the name of the new partition is without space or special character, I used NONE, then format.

Last test I did not try is to change the name of the bin file I downloaded from Epson web site. It is currently 18 characters long, but I am sure nobody changed the file name.


----------



## Rahjelli

xxrb1 said:


> I might buy a cheap usb key from amazon as the next step. Thanks for the offer to send me yours @old corps.
> 
> I tried it all: disk utility on MAC, disk utility on Windows, deleting the partition first, then making sure the name of the new partition is without space or special character, I used NONE, then format.
> 
> Last test I did not try is to change the name of the bin file I downloaded from Epson web site. It is currently 18 characters long, but I am sure nobody changed the file name.


I had the same issue on mine, but my fix (at least I think it was the fix because it worked), was format the USB stick to fat32, volume name EPSON_PJ copy the .bin file to it, and copy a zipped version of the .bin file to it as well. So you have 2 files on the USB drive, one .bin and one zipped .bin. I used a 16gb sandisk usb stick.

After I did that I did the normal flash steps and it started working, before then I tried everything in the book that you mentioned and it did not work at all or even attempt to work. I bought it with .110/.104 and afterward it showed .111/.111

Hope this helps!


----------



## Raitsa

Try formatting you USB stick with Rufus: rufus.akeo.ie


----------



## Dave Harper

simonk83 said:


> Hi everyone
> 
> 
> 
> Fiiinnnnaaalllly got my theater room finished and the 9300 (which is the 6040 equivalent?) installed and set up. Haven't had a chance to play with the settings or calibrate really, but I'm starting to pick through this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be watching movies (UHD and "regular" 1080p) mostly through a Vero4K (I have an Nvidia Shield, but bought the Vero specifically as it handles switching colourspace correctly, which the Shield still stubbornly refuses to do), some Netflix, and gaming through a PS4 Pro. I've only just realised the issues with the Pro and this PJ (in the lack of HDR at 4K which is a bit of a bummer but I'll survive).
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering if people still recommend these "Harpervision" settings all these months later? http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017, and if so do these settings also apply if you're watching SDR content, or is it only to be used when viewing HDR material?
> 
> 
> 
> Or is there a better selection of settings to go with?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, as this is my first projector and I'm completely clueless, am I correct in thinking that I need to have several presets set up? One for SDR and one for HDR, and I need to remember to switch to the appropriate one when watching the relevant content?



I still recommend it, if that counts? 

Those settings are good, although you have to do the CMS settings yourself since they got lost somehow in the process and I haven't had a 5040 here since to update it. I can't stress this enough though, you have to tweak them to your system and environment and you have to do it well. Believe me, when you hit the right combo of settings, your jaw concurrently hits the floor! 

It is only for HDR signals, not SDR.


----------



## jpgfontes

xxrb1 said:


> I might buy a cheap usb key from amazon as the next step. Thanks for the offer to send me yours @old corps.
> 
> I tried it all: disk utility on MAC, disk utility on Windows, deleting the partition first, then making sure the name of the new partition is without space or special character, I used NONE, then format.
> 
> Last test I did not try is to change the name of the bin file I downloaded from Epson web site. It is currently 18 characters long, but I am sure nobody changed the file name.


I know this may sound silly, but have you checked if you are plugging the usb key in the USB input, placed next to LAN input (middle of the back panel)?

Since I don't have a clear view to the rear panel where my projector is placed, when I first tried to update to the latest firmware my projector was powering down after blinking the lights. After a few tries, I realized I was plugging my pen drive to the input on the edge of the projector, described in the manual as "Opt.HDMI (300mA) port (USB power for optical HDMI connections)" .

After I connected it to the proper USB input, the update initiated as expected with the procedure described above!


----------



## SALadder22FF

Dave Harper said:


> I still recommend it, if that counts?
> 
> Those settings are good, although you have to do the CMS settings yourself since they got lost somehow in the process and I haven't had a 5040 here since to update it. I can't stress this enough though, you have to tweak them to your system and environment and you have to do it well. Believe me, when you hit the right combo of settings, your jaw concurrently hits the floor!
> 
> It is only for HDR signals, not SDR.


Do you just do this by eyeball?

I downloaded those r.mascolia files, but how do you pull them up. I have Philips 7501, Nvidia shield and X1X. 

I love Harpervision even though I've never tweaked for me personally.

I would love to get it really dialed in.

Also, I'm using the wireless HDMI right now and every now and then I get random white bar flash. Is this the projector or the wireless signal? Happens very irregularly but like a whole line of the screen flashes for a millisecond then goes back normal. Any ideas?

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## xxrb1

Tried both last advices: rufus utility tool and the EPSON_PJ FAT32 with bin file and zip file. Still the same issue: no flashing light and no update, just turns off after 75 seconds. I also check bad sector with the rufus tool and my USB stick is clean.


----------



## xxrb1

jpgfontes said:


> I know this may sound silly, but have you checked if you are plugging the usb key in the USB input, placed next to LAN input (middle of the back panel)?
> 
> Since I don't have a clear view to the rear panel where my projector is placed, when I first tried to update to the latest firmware my projector was powering down after blinking the lights. After a few tries, I realized I was plugging my pen drive to the input on the edge of the projector, described in the manual as "Opt.HDMI (300mA) port (USB power for optical HDMI connections)" .
> 
> After I connected it to the proper USB input, the update initiated as expected with the procedure described above!


Yes I check that first, I plug my usb drive in the port called "USB" on the back panel 

The only stuff I did not try and guess nobody try is the service port which looks like a mini USB port. Nobody as a usb stick with a mini usb male connection.


----------



## sddp

mase1981 said:


> Time to upgrade to the elite


Have you or anyone else used the Harmony Elite?

The specific question is, how much of the Epson original buttons/commands are also on the Elite?

is it a perfect duplicate copy, where I wouldn't need to reach the Epson's remote anymore?


----------



## ayrton

*xxrb1 Take up Old Corps offer*

I would try a "Known Good" device as Old Corps offered to send you. At lease you know that it works and then know it's a problem with the PJ.

Good luck! ayrton


----------



## Rahjelli

xxrb1 said:


> Yes I check that first, I plug my usb drive in the port called "USB" on the back panel
> 
> The only stuff I did not try and guess nobody try is the service port which looks like a mini USB port. Nobody as a usb stick with a mini usb male connection.


I tried that on a windows computer with a mini USB cable as that's how I flashed my 5030UB in the past, but the drivers did not install properly on the system for the 5040UB


----------



## xxrb1

good news, got it working. Here are the steps:

- Disk Utility Management in Windows: Delete the volume, create a new Volume FAT32, name EPSON, NO quick format
- Copy the bin file and a zip of the bin file, so 2 files as noted by @Rahjelli

I guess the No quick format with windows disk utility was the trick, but as @Rahjelli, maybe the two files helped also


----------



## mase1981

sddp said:


> Have you or anyone else used the Harmony Elite?
> 
> The specific question is, how much of the Epson original buttons/commands are also on the Elite?
> 
> is it a perfect duplicate copy, where I wouldn't need to reach the Epson's remote anymore?


I personally myself added the epson 6040ub to the harmony database. I was one of the first to ever buy it pre ordered. So I can tell u first hand, all the buttons are there since I put them there. Someone else from the forum added the 5040ub. Works flawless


----------



## sddp

mase1981 said:


> I personally myself added the epson 6040ub to the harmony database. I was one of the first to ever buy it pre ordered. So I can tell u first hand, all the buttons are there since I put them there. Someone else from the forum added the 5040ub. Works flawless


When you say added, you mean via logged into Logitechs website and added the device?

And also when you say all the buttons are there, at that point there absolutely no reason to use the epson remote anymore, since very option is now usable on the Harmony?


----------



## mase1981

sddp said:


> When you say added, you mean via logged into Logitechs website and added the device?
> 
> And also when you say all the buttons are there, at that point there absolutely no reason to use the epson remote anymore, since very option is now usable on the Harmony?


Yes and yes. Search for epson 6040ub you will find it. And I hadn't touched the projector remote in a year.....


----------



## drhankz

xxrb1 said:


> good news, got it working. Here are the steps:
> 
> - Disk Utility Management in Windows: Delete the volume, create a new Volume FAT32, name EPSON, NO quick format
> - Copy the bin file and a zip of the bin file, so 2 files as noted by @Rahjelli
> 
> I guess the No quick format with windows disk utility was the trick, but as @Rahjelli, maybe the two files helped also


NOW the more important question ----

Did the new Firmware fix a problem you were having 
or
Did the Picture Quality Improve


----------



## Rahjelli

drhankz said:


> NOW the more important question ----
> 
> Did the new Firmware fix a problem you were having
> or
> Did the Picture Quality Improve


To my eyes the only thing was the change for the HDR Auto (Bright) setting, so in that sense the HDR portion of watching content is better since it's brighter, as far as actual picture improvement clarity wise, etc... negative.

I would love if they came out with a super resolution firmware update like they did for the 5030UB, THEN we're talking. If it wasn't for WCG and HDR on this one I wouldn't even have changed out my 5030UB, even with the Faux-K... fingers crossed they make that happen (it took a LONG time for the 5030UB)

and glad the firmware update suggestion at least pointed to the AH HA moment! That's what its all about


----------



## old corps

xxrb1 said:


> good news, got it working. Here are the steps:
> 
> - Disk Utility Management in Windows: Delete the volume, create a new Volume FAT32, name EPSON, NO quick format
> - Copy the bin file and a zip of the bin file, so 2 files as noted by @*Rahjelli*
> 
> I guess the No quick format with windows disk utility was the trick, but as @*Rahjelli*, maybe the two files helped also



EXCELLENT! I was just going to tell you to pm your address to me! I DID notice the increase in brightness after updating. Looks better to me.
Ed


----------



## xxrb1

drhankz said:


> NOW the more important question ----
> 
> Did the new Firmware fix a problem you were having
> or
> Did the Picture Quality Improve


That is a very good question , the reason was part of my first posting: trying the new brighter HDR settings.

According to this thread it was reported that the new HDR settings coming with this new firmware v1.11 give a brighter image. Got the same information from projectorcentral or projectorreview sites (do not remember) with the v1.09 firmware. As I had the firmware v1.04, I apparently did not have this new shiny HDR settings .

Will try tonight and see if it is any better.

Having said so, I am a proponent of upgrading all electronic/computer stuff to the new firmware after others already tried . Companies also do not spend money upgrading stuff just for pleasure, there are always hidden bugs corrected or more. Moreover, it seems that upgrade for HDR stuff is a current trend for all projector manufacturers this days as the technology is not yet fully cooked.

Looks like other posters already replied before I finish typing


----------



## jwhn

SALadder22FF said:


> I downloaded those r.mascolia files, but how do you pull them up. I have Philips 7501, Nvidia shield and X1X.


On the shield you can install the MX Player Pro app and play them off of a USB drive.


----------



## misterg51

*HD Fury Linker - XBox One X thru Av7004*

Hello,

I finally gave up trying to get my Linker going between my xbox one x through my Marantz av7004 to my Epson 5040UB. My Oppo 205 and 4K Apple TV were not as complicated......

Right now the xbox plays at 4K but 8-bit 709 no HDR. Looking at the screenshots of the Linker setup through all the posts, I've seen option 2 and 8 used and scaling to 30 bt2020. If there is a post that lists all the settings I'd love to find it. I'll go back over everything and reread them. Finally got SpectraCal Home Enthusiast working and calibrated the PJ, but this old guy had a steep learning curve on that one.

I would love to hear from anyone that has it working with a similar setup. I'm OK with no HDR on the XBox, lol, no I'm not 

Thank you and Peace to all.


----------



## whmacs

misterg51 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I finally gave up trying to get my Linker going between my xbox one x through my Marantz av7004 to my Epson 5040UB. My Oppo 205 and 4K Apple TV were not as complicated......
> 
> Right now the xbox plays at 4K but 8-bit 709 no HDR. Looking at the screenshots of the Linker setup through all the posts, I've seen option 2 and 8 used and scaling to 30 bt2020. If there is a post that lists all the settings I'd love to find it. I'll go back over everything and reread them. Finally got SpectraCal Home Enthusiast working and calibrated the PJ, but this old guy had a steep learning curve on that one.
> 
> I would love to hear from anyone that has it working with a similar setup. I'm OK with no HDR on the XBox, lol, no I'm not
> 
> Thank you and Peace to all.


Hi Misterg51,
Did you try Mase1981 settings here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-390.html#post55153048

Also have you set the 4K signal format on your 7704 to “enhanced”. This is required for the 7704 to pass 4K 60hz 4:4:4 through. Please see:
Setting - Video - 4k Signal format in the manual.
http://manuals.marantz.com/AV7704/na/en/DRDZSYzvebvotm.php

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## misterg51

misterg51 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I finally gave up trying to get my Linker going between my xbox one x through my Marantz av7004 to my Epson 5040UB. My Oppo 205 and 4K Apple TV were not as complicated......
> 
> Right now the xbox plays at 4K but 8-bit 709 no HDR. Looking at the screenshots of the Linker setup through all the posts, I've seen option 2 and 8 used and scaling to 30 bt2020. If there is a post that lists all the settings I'd love to find it. I'll go back over everything and reread them. Finally got SpectraCal Home Enthusiast working and calibrated the PJ, but this old guy had a steep learning curve on that one.
> 
> I would love to hear from anyone that has it working with a similar setup. I'm OK with no HDR on the XBox, lol, no I'm not
> 
> Thank you and Peace to all.


Thank You Thank You!!

It was the 4K setting me thinks in the AV7004 and I also used the newer firmware.

You saved me a ton of time..... now to figure out which color mode looks bestnon the Epson. So far Bright Cinema...

MG


----------



## Juiced46

misterg51 said:


> Thank You Thank You!!
> 
> It was the 4K setting me thinks in the AV7004 and I also used the newer firmware.
> 
> You saved me a ton of time..... now to figure out which color mode looks bestnon the Epson. So far Bright Cinema...
> 
> MG


So far Bright Cinema has been my go to choice as well for gaming.


----------



## ayrton

mase1981 said:


> I personally myself added the epson 6040ub to the harmony database. I was one of the first to ever buy it pre ordered. So I can tell u first hand, all the buttons are there since I put them there. Someone else from the forum added the 5040ub. Works flawless


How about the UBe? Anyone use a Harmony with the wireless transmitter??


----------



## whmacs

misterg51 said:


> Thank You Thank You!!
> 
> It was the 4K setting me thinks in the AV7004 and I also used the newer firmware.
> 
> You saved me a ton of time..... now to figure out which color mode looks bestnon the Epson. So far Bright Cinema...
> 
> MG


No problem, glad it helped! I had to do something similar with my Yamaha CX-5100.

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## xxrb1

*Oppo 203 -spiderman 4K - only SDR color*

Just watched spiderman homecoming and I was surprise that the color mode was only SDR. I tried to modify the output from my oppo but the menu said that a dolby vision blue ray video output cannot be altered. So no luck changing the video output from the oppo. I already wachted many other 4K blu rays and all were able to pass BT2020.

I read about 4k High Frame Rate issue with the epson due to the 10Gb limitation, but earlier in the thread people were claiming to watch this same HDR blueray with BT2020 as it is a not a HFR. So, I wonder, what is wrong in my setup?

Thanks


----------



## dimi123

Rahjelli said:


> I would love if they came out with a super resolution firmware update like they did for the 5030UB, THEN we're talking ...fingers crossed they make that happen (it took a LONG time for the 5030UB).


It is already implemented on the 5040/6040/9300. I don't know what they could further improve on it.


----------



## internetworker

Dear... gentlemen, 

Sorry if this has been asked before but somehow i didn't quite find the answer. Basically in Asia, i got the Epson TW8300 which is supposingly the 5040ub. i'm currently running on the 1.04 firmware and would like to go 1.11. So can i just upgrade using the firmware downloaded from EPSON which is for the 5040?? I need to be absolutely sure as i don't want to brick my projector. 

I know for a fact that certain models though referred to as similar across different regions may sometimes have some small hardware changes.... so would appreciate the help from you guys. Cheers.....


----------



## dholmes54

My projector is above my head and the fan noise on high lamp setting when using harpervision or ordurts settings is to loud what can I do to improve the pq on medium lamp? Also my internet is slow and I cant download the firmware,it could be me I'm not a computer expert.


----------



## Mr.G

internetworker said:


> Dear... gentlemen,
> 
> Sorry if this has been asked before but somehow i didn't quite find the answer. Basically in Asia, i got the Epson TW8300 which is supposingly the 5040ub. i'm currently running on the 1.04 firmware and would like to go 1.11. So can i just upgrade using the firmware downloaded from EPSON which is for the 5040?? I need to be absolutely sure as i don't want to brick my projector.
> 
> I know for a fact that certain models though referred to as similar across different regions may sometimes have some small hardware changes.... so would appreciate the help from you guys. Cheers.....


You'll find your firmware update on the Australian Epson website.

http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp


----------



## Dave Harper

SALadder22FF said:


> Do you just do this by eyeball?
> 
> I downloaded those r.mascolia files, but how do you pull them up. I have Philips 7501, Nvidia shield and X1X.
> 
> I love Harpervision even though I've never tweaked for me personally.
> 
> I would love to get it really dialed in.
> 
> Also, I'm using the wireless HDMI right now and every now and then I get random white bar flash. Is this the projector or the wireless signal? Happens very irregularly but like a whole line of the screen flashes for a millisecond then goes back normal. Any ideas?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk



Are you asking about CMS by eye, or the custom gamma curve?

CMS you won't be able to do by eye, but the gamma curve you should be able to put in my settings to start, and then put in a good mixed scene to adjust by eye that last ounce of perfection. I love the scene in The Revenant towards the beginning battle when the old man walks towards and shoots the horse then walks through the small cabin where the guys is comforting his dying friend because you have very dark shadow detail scenes in the shadows and then also bright flashes with the sun shining through. This is more easily done with the 5040 because each area and level of the curve you're adjusting flashes in the scene, so you know exactly what level is being changed. It only takes a click or two one way or the other and then when you hit it right on all levels and go back to the movie scene, you'll know it when you hit it because you'll be in awe of what you see. 

There are many other scenes in The Revenant that are great too. Once you nail it, go to the beginning of the chapter that starts with them walking through the mossy forrest and the captain is asking Glass about his son. You will be absolutely floored!  I think it's chapter 5. 



dholmes54 said:


> My projector is above my head and the fan noise on high lamp setting when using harpervision or ordurts settings is to loud what can I do to improve the pq on medium lamp? Also my internet is slow and I cant download the firmware,it could be me I'm not a computer expert.



I hear the new FW boosts up the HDR brightness which may allow you to use Medium Lamp power instead of High.


----------



## dcrna1

*6040 purchase*

Considering the purchase of a 6040. Does anyone recommend against it?


----------



## Dave Harper

dcrna1 said:


> Considering the purchase of a 6040. Does anyone recommend against it?



Unless you really need a black case, I think the 5040 is just as good hardware wise and could save you tons of money. Shoot me a PM and I'd be happy to help you decide what works best without clogging this thread.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Dave Harper said:


> Are you asking about CMS by eye, or the custom gamma curve?
> 
> CMS you won't be able to do by eye, but the gamma curve you should be able to put in my settings to start, and then put in a good mixed scene to adjust by eye that last ounce of perfection. I love the scene in The Revenant towards the beginning battle when the old man walks towards and shoots the horse then walks through the small cabin where the guys is comforting his dying friend because you have very dark shadow detail scenes in the shadows and then also bright flashes with the sun shining through. This is more easily done with the 5040 because each area and level of the curve you're adjusting flashes in the scene, so you know exactly what level is being changed. It only takes a click or two one way or the other and then when you hit it right on all levels and go back to the movie scene, you'll know it when you hit it because you'll be in awe of what you see.
> 
> There are many other scenes in The Revenant that are great too. Once you nail it, go to the beginning of the chapter that starts with them walking through the mossy forrest and the captain is asking Glass about his son. You will be absolutely floored!  I think it's chapter 5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hear the new FW boosts up the HDR brightness which may allow you to use Medium Lamp power instead of High.


I'll give that a try then. I've looked at this where the screen flashes, but felt very intimidated about messing up the picture.

Does this custom setting work for all movies once you hit that sweet spot.

Honestly, with your settings watching Pacific Rim, my jaw dropped in the difference of HDR and standard picture.

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

SALadder22FF said:


> I'll give that a try then. I've looked at this where the screen flashes, but felt very intimidated about messing up the picture.
> 
> Does this custom setting work for all movies once you hit that sweet spot.
> 
> Honestly, with your settings watching Pacific Rim, my jaw dropped in the difference of HDR and standard picture.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk



It should be awful close, but for darker movies you can tweak brightness up a tad or if you have a Panasonic UHD Bluray you can use the slider up a notch or two. 

Don't worry about messing anything up. Just save and write down your settings. If you get all screwed up you can always just go back to default or my settings again and start over.


----------



## BiggusDiccus

mase1981 said:


> You can either get the linker directly from the manufacturer: (Taiwan)
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> 
> Or you can get it from monoprice: (US)
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27330
> 
> [Update 12/11/2017] - Download and use firmware .25 (version 21), use the link below and go to download section.
> Manual, firmware, drivers and software can be found here:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/#tab-tab-download
> 
> You can either use a computer to do all that or buy an additional bluetooth adapter so you wont need a computer for the configuration (its just easier if you dont want to disconnect and move rooms each time, not a must:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/goblue/
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27329
> 
> Once you get it and put the 19a firmware, here are the config settings you need to do.
> added both from PC and via the Geo Blue.
> if you follow these settings exactly it will work with XB1S and get all greens.
> Honestly, this should be a sticky


Anyone getting this error? I’ve got the latest firmware installed. The screen goes blank as the linker syncs back up.


----------



## sddp

ayrton said:


> How about the UBe? Anyone use a Harmony with the wireless transmitter??


Actually, I'd like to know as well. I forgot to mention I'm using the UBe as well. And looks like the Elite is on sale too


----------



## SALadder22FF

Dave Harper said:


> It should be awful close, but for darker movies you can tweak brightness up a tad or if you have a Panasonic UHD Bluray you can use the slider up a notch or two.
> 
> Don't worry about messing anything up. Just save and write down your settings. If you get all screwed up you can always just go back to default or my settings again and start over.


Sounds good.

Any other movies you recommend doing this on? I don't have The Revenant.

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

sddp said:


> Actually, I'd like to know as well. I forgot to mention I'm using the UBe as well. And looks like the Elite is on sale too


I have the Ube and use the Harmony. 

Works flawlessly.

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Hal_M said:


> Not sure if this problem has been mentioned before, but my 5040UB seems to suddenly be having a problem recognizing HDR signals from my Sony X800 4K Blu-ray player. It has worked flawlessly for months, now all of a sudden when I put a 4K HDR disc in, it reads it as SDR. Sometimes I have to eject and reload the disc 3, 4 or 5 times before it recognizes the HDR signal. I thought maybe it was the Sony (still might be), but if I turn off the Epson and turn it back on, it instantly recognizes that the disc is HDR.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts on why this is suddenly happening and what I might do about it?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I had this happen with a ub900 Panasonic, switched to oppo 203 and not only did it cure that issue it made audio and picture better...How? No idea lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## drenet

*5040UBe No Power*

Hello all, hoping this issue has come up before but I was not able to find any mention of it in this thread. 

I purchased the 5040ube in October and have been using it twice a week or so with no issues. Today while watching the game, the projector turned off with no warning and will not turn back on. There are no status lights, the projector was not hot (it had only been on for about 45 minutes), unplugging and plugging back in does not work. I have verified that there is power both to the outlet and through the power cable, but its as if the projector does not recognize it; the lens cover did not even close when it initially shut off. I also confirmed that the air filter was not clogged/dirty and that the lamp is seated correctly. 

I'm hoping somebody on this forum knows of a magical fix, otherwise its a restless night of sleep about my $3000 paperweight and a call to Epson support in the morning... Please?


----------



## xxrb1

drenet said:


> Hello all, hoping this issue has come up before but I was not able to find any mention of it in this thread.
> 
> I purchased the 5040ube in October and have been using it twice a week or so with no issues. Today while watching the game, the projector turned off with no warning and will not turn back on. There are no status lights, the projector was not hot (it had only been on for about 45 minutes), unplugging and plugging back in does not work. I have verified that there is power both to the outlet and through the power cable, but its as if the projector does not recognize it; the lens cover did not even close when it initially shut off. I also confirmed that the air filter was not clogged/dirty and that the lamp is seated correctly.
> 
> I'm hoping somebody on this forum knows of a magical fix, otherwise its a restless night of sleep about my $3000 paperweight and a call to Epson support in the morning... Please?


There is a thread about dead power supply board for the Epson 5040. According to this thread all the Epson will fail at some point due to a "power supply board" problem. I have no clue if true or not, or how prevalent the issue is. According to the same thread, Epson support will promptly ship you a refurbished unit if you can reach level 2 support .

I had to call Epson support only one time for another issue, and my call also ended up with a refurbish unit replacement proposal. I denied it, but Epson motto for this projector really seems to replace it if they cannot fix it over the phone.


----------



## old corps

drenet said:


> Hello all, hoping this issue has come up before but I was not able to find any mention of it in this thread.
> 
> I purchased the 5040ube in October and have been using it twice a week or so with no issues. Today while watching the game, the projector turned off with no warning and will not turn back on. There are no status lights, the projector was not hot (it had only been on for about 45 minutes), unplugging and plugging back in does not work. I have verified that there is power both to the outlet and through the power cable, but its as if the projector does not recognize it; the lens cover did not even close when it initially shut off. I also confirmed that the air filter was not clogged/dirty and that the lamp is seated correctly.
> 
> I'm hoping somebody on this forum knows of a magical fix, otherwise its a restless night of sleep about my $3000 paperweight and a call to Epson support in the morning... Please?


 
Really sorry to hear this but I have seen this same thing posted at least twice before and it WAS in this same thread. Same thing-pj had been working fine for a substantial period of time then just went dead like yours. Seems like one of those posts had been using theirs with no problems for 6 weeks or so. I'm certain Epson will send you a replacement quickly but seeing this posted again worries me, another 5040 owner. Best of luck!


Ed


----------



## randy.walters.90

Hi. Wanted to add my story: bought a new 5040 on Dec. 4th. Worked great, no problems. I go down to watch, PJ won’t turn on. Can’t get it to do anything. Call CSR and they promptly sent me a replacement. I asked for a brand new one seeing as it had only been like 2 weeks. Got it the next day. Felt relieved. 

Until this past Friday. Came downstairs, projector will not turn on, no lights nothing. Tried different outlet, etc. called CSR. Talked to Advanced Support the next morning. Again asked for a brand new unit. 

Really getting worried about the quality of this projector. I’m going on my third PJ in about a month. 

The warranty is for 2 years and they seek quick to send replacements. I asked about the prevalence of this issue and was assured that I was having bad luck and that it’s only with a small percentage. I referenced this forum and said that I’ve read complaints about this. 

I’m nervous about this...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wookie

*power supply problem with the Epson 5040ube*

Same thing happened to me. I had had my projector for about 5 months. I called Epson on a Wednesday evening. They said someone would get in touch with me on Thursday which they did. I received another projector with a new bulb on Friday. They sent me a FedEx form to attach to my old projector and they paid for the return postage. I have not had any problems since. I still like the projector- great picture. I think that they are having problems with the power supply in some projectors.


----------



## WynsWrld98

xxrb1 said:


> There is a thread about dead power supply board for the Epson 5040. According to this thread all the Epson will fail at some point due to a "power supply board" problem. I have no clue if true or not, or how prevalent the issue is. According to the same thread, Epson support will promptly ship you a refurbished unit if you can reach level 2 support .
> 
> I had to call Epson support only one time for another issue, and my call also ended up with a refurbish unit replacement proposal. I denied it, but Epson motto for this projector really seems to replace it if they cannot fix it over the phone.


I've owned multiple Epsons and at least the way it used to work is you can request that your projector be repaired and returned vs. getting a refurb. Luckily I have a backup projector if such a situation were to arise and would request the repair vs. replace with refurb since I have no idea what issues the refurb may have such as poor alignment, etc.


----------



## ayrton

xxrb1 said:


> Just watched spiderman homecoming and I was surprise that the color mode was only SDR. I tried to modify the output from my oppo but the menu said that a dolby vision blue ray video output cannot be altered. So no luck changing the video output from the oppo. I already wachted many other 4K blu rays and all were able to pass BT2020.
> 
> I read about 4k High Frame Rate issue with the epson due to the 10Gb limitation, but earlier in the thread people were claiming to watch this same HDR blueray with BT2020 as it is a not a HFR. So, I wonder, what is wrong in my setup?
> 
> Thanks


Mine plays fine in 4K UHD HDR using oledurts "Bright Cinema" settings. (Using a 203) Have you checked the output of the 203??

Might jump on the 203 Thread and ask..


----------



## xxrb1

ayrton said:


> Mine plays fine in 4K UHD HDR using oledurts "Bright Cinema" settings. (Using a 203) Have you checked the output of the 203??
> 
> Might jump on the 203 Thread and ask..


Thanks for the reply, I check the oppo 203 and did not find my issue but something relevant, see below. The issue is that the oppo does not display anything except a message saying that a dolby vision video output cannot be altered.

I read on the oppo thread that I should configure the oppo before the dolby vision disk is inserted, because after everything is locked. Will try it.


----------



## viperlogic

whats the difference between normal iris and high speed iris?


----------



## dholmes54

thxs mr harper I just realized that the thumb drive was used I think your are suppose to use a new one


----------



## roland6465

Speaking of updates, I wonder why they haven't done anything about the high fan at startup instead of shutdown. All of my previous projectors from BenQ, Optoma, and Epson have started up in whichever fan mode I used on startup, and at shutdown blew the fan on high for a couple of minutes to cool the unit down.


----------



## randy.walters.90

randy.walters.90 said:


> Hi. Wanted to add my story: bought a new 5040 on Dec. 4th. Worked great, no problems. I go down to watch, PJ won’t turn on. Can’t get it to do anything. Call CSR and they promptly sent me a replacement. I asked for a brand new one seeing as it had only been like 2 weeks. Got it the next day. Felt relieved.
> 
> Until this past Friday. Came downstairs, projector will not turn on, no lights nothing. Tried different outlet, etc. called CSR. Talked to Advanced Support the next morning. Again asked for a brand new unit.
> 
> Really getting worried about the quality of this projector. I’m going on my third PJ in about a month.
> 
> The warranty is for 2 years and they seek quick to send replacements. I asked about the prevalence of this issue and was assured that I was having bad luck and that it’s only with a small percentage. I referenced this forum and said that I’ve read complaints about this.
> 
> I’m nervous about this...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Update: Received my 3rd projector today and it came in a refurbished box. I’m not thrilled about it because it’s less than a month old and I purchased a brand new unit. 

My options are to:

1. Return to the original vendor for full refund. I’m still in return period. 

2. Keep the refurbished unit and keep my fingers crossed. 

3. Request Epson to send me brand new unit as the CSR told me that I would be getting a new one this time. 

Any advice?

I’m just not sure how prevalent this power supply issue is and whether or not the refurbished model I received would have different power supply part or a different issue entirely. 

I’m considering returning this and waiting on the sidelines longer for maybe a Epson 5050? Haven’t heard anything about a new model coming out, but I’m new to this whole forum. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

randy.walters.90 said:


> Update: Received my 3rd projector today and it came in a refurbished box. I’m not thrilled about it because it’s less than a month old and I purchased a brand new unit.
> 
> My options are to:
> 
> 1. Return to the original vendor for full refund. I’m still in return period.
> 
> 2. Keep the refurbished unit and keep my fingers crossed.
> 
> 3. Request Epson to send me brand new unit as the CSR told me that I would be getting a new one this time.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> I’m just not sure how prevalent this power supply issue is and whether or not the refurbished model I received would have different power supply part or a different issue entirely.
> 
> I’m considering returning this and waiting on the sidelines longer for maybe a Epson 5050? Haven’t heard anything about a new model coming out, but I’m new to this whole forum.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Refurbished units almost always have issues. I had multiple returns with the 8350 and also the 3500. Everytime they send a refurbished unit first and everything there was something wrong. Usually it's uniformity on focus. Put some computer text on the screen and I'm willing to bet you won't be able to get the whole screen focused at the same time. I had other issues, one of them didn't turn on and another the focus ring was stuck and wouldn't budge.


----------



## mikecoscia

I was playing Battlefront 2 this afternoon using HarperVision's settings and I noticed that the edges of dark objects on light backgrounds smear when panning quickly. They leave a trail in their wake. I played around with the settings a bit and the imagine enhancement presets increase the effect. The smear is barely noticeable on 1 and the worst on 5. I never noticed this issue before until today. It also seems to be most prevalent with HarperVision, not the default color modes. Has anyone else noticed this issue?


----------



## Nexgen76

Okay i played around with Harper setting & Oledurts v2 where can i find Oledurts v1 with bright cinema ? So far I'm really like the Harper setting. Also does anyone have a good blu-Ray setting on here which is a shame but some movies that's out are only on Blu-Ray.


----------



## Juiced46

Dave Harper said:


> It should be awful close, but for darker movies you can tweak brightness up a tad or if you have a Panasonic UHD Bluray you can use the slider up a notch or two.
> 
> Don't worry about messing anything up. Just save and write down your settings. If you get all screwed up you can always just go back to default or my settings again and start over.



Dave, when using the R Masciola patterns to calibrate HDR. What sort of file format does the software come in?

I do not have a PC that is capable of 4K/HDR, so how would I be able to use the test patterns once downloaded? Only thing I have is an Xbox One X and a PS4 Pro, I am wondering if its possible to load the files on to a USB and view it through the Console? I am trying to figure this out before purchasing it. Also am I going to need any sort of equipment?


----------



## NetViper

I saw a former 5040 owner bought a Sony es285 and said it killed the 5040 at gaming. I think mine looks incredible especially in hdr with the linker.

Has anyone else seen a 285 gaming? I have a hard time believe it’s the much better, but it could be.


----------



## Juiced46

NetViper said:


> I saw a former 5040 owner bought a Sony es285 and said it killed the 5040 at gaming. I think mine looks incredible especially in hdr with the linker.
> 
> Has anyone else seen a 285 gaming? I have a hard time believe it’s the much better, but it could be.


I have not seen the Sony. But for a Native 4K unit and a $5000 price tag, it better look better lol. At this time, since I already own the 5040, personally the extra cost to upgrade to the 285ES is just not worth it at the moment. The 5040 will get me by for a few years then we will see more Native 4K units come to the market and prices start to drop.


----------



## simonk83

Sorry to bring this up again but just after a simple yes or no I suppose.

In order to get 4K 60 and HDR working at the same time on PS4 Pro, you need to hook up a HDFury device right? Are there any limitations or issues of doing this?

Thanks!


----------



## NetViper

Juiced46 said:


> I have not seen the Sony. But for a Native 4K unit and a $5000 price tag, it better look better lol. At this time, since I already own the 5040, personally the extra cost to upgrade to the 285ES is just not worth it at the moment. The 5040 will get me by for a few years then we will see more Native 4K units come to the market and prices start to drop.


Personally I think it’s a ridiculous a $5,000 projector can’t do 4k 60 hdr without converting to 8 bit color... but that’s just me.


----------



## Juiced46

simonk83 said:


> Sorry to bring this up again but just after a simple yes or no I suppose.
> 
> In order to get 4K 60 and HDR working at the same time on PS4 Pro, you need to hook up a HDFury device right? Are there any limitations or issues of doing this?
> 
> Thanks!


You need a Linker. You are limited to 8 BIT only with 4K/60 HDR. No other real issues as long as it is setup correctly which is extremely simple and layed out very clear in this thread how to do it. 



NetViper said:


> Personally I think it’s a ridiculous a $5,000 projector can’t do 4k 60 hdr without converting to 8 bit color... but that’s just me.


I agree as well. How are you going to offer a 4K HDR device and limit it to 8 bit? Every current common source, Gaming Netflix, Amazon etc outputs at 4K/60 10-12bit. Its a big F-You to all consumers IMO.


----------



## simonk83

Juiced46 said:


> You need a Linker. You are limited to 8 BIT only with 4K/60 HDR. No other real issues as long as it is setup correctly which is extremely simple and layed out very clear in this thread how to do it.
> .


Ok great, this sucker I assume: https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/

I saw someone earlier say (though I'll need to go back and read it) they were having issues with Atmos not working for some reason after installing the Linker. I guess as I only need it for the PS4 I could just installed it between the PS4 and Epson (rather than the amp and PS4) so that it's only involved with the PS4 and nothing else?


----------



## bullpuss

BiggNewt said:


> True 4K projectors are no where close to being in the sub $2,500 range like the 5040UB. The Sony 285ES is $5,000 and still has issues with HDR just like the 5040UB. I still think we're a good 2-3 years before we get a sub $2,500 4K projector that can handle HDR correctly.


100% correct!!!!


----------



## Dave Harper

dholmes54 said:


> thxs mr harper I just realized that the thumb drive was used I think your are suppose to use a new one


Sorry I'm not sure what you're referring to?




SALadder22FF said:


> Sounds good.
> 
> Any other movies you recommend doing this on? I don't have The Revenant.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Try Ghostbusters 2016. The scene in the old theater with the rock concert and glowing green gargoyle. Revenant is definitely worth the price of admission though!




Juiced46 said:


> Dave, when using the R Masciola patterns to calibrate HDR. What sort of file format does the software come in?
> 
> 
> 
> I do not have a PC that is capable of 4K/HDR, so how would I be able to use the test patterns once downloaded? Only thing I have is an Xbox One X and a PS4 Pro, I am wondering if its possible to load the files on to a USB and view it through the Console? I am trying to figure this out before purchasing it. Also am I going to need any sort of equipment?



Yes you can use a USB Flash drive. It has two file formats, MP4 and TS from what I recall seeing in my files and I see here:

https://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/dvs_products.html

I am able to play the MP4 versions on my FireTV box and Panasonic UB900 UHD Bluray player. I haven't tried it on my son's XBox 1 and we don't have a PS4. 

You don't need equipment for the basic test patterns for brightness contrast color tint sharpness etc. but if you want to set greyscale, CMS, gamma, etc. right you should have a meter and calibration software.


----------



## WynsWrld98

randy.walters.90 said:


> Update: Received my 3rd projector today and it came in a refurbished box. I’m not thrilled about it because it’s less than a month old and I purchased a brand new unit.
> 
> My options are to:
> 
> 1. Return to the original vendor for full refund. I’m still in return period.
> 
> 2. Keep the refurbished unit and keep my fingers crossed.
> 
> 3. Request Epson to send me brand new unit as the CSR told me that I would be getting a new one this time.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> I’m just not sure how prevalent this power supply issue is and whether or not the refurbished model I received would have different power supply part or a different issue entirely.
> 
> I’m considering returning this and waiting on the sidelines longer for maybe a Epson 5050? Haven’t heard anything about a new model coming out, but I’m new to this whole forum.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would do #1 and either rebuy 5040 guaranteeing a new one or wait for possible 5050. If there is a 5050 (I think likely) it likely would be announced at CEDIA 9/2018 and released within a couple of months of that date based on how releases of Epson 5/6 series projectors have been released in the past. I would think they'd want to get a model out with a 18 gb hdmi chipset to solve compatibility issues so I think highly likely a 5050 being announced 9/2018. JVC, their competitor has been offering projectors with 18 gb chip set for multiple model years. If you can't wait that long then you could reorder a NEW 5040 and be guaranteed you get a new one. All of the reports of power supply problems is really disappointing that Epson let things get this far with whoever supplies them. I have a 5040 and am afraid it will bite me.


----------



## old corps

randy.walters.90 said:


> Update: Received my 3rd projector today and it came in a refurbished box. I’m not thrilled about it because it’s less than a month old and I purchased a brand new unit.
> 
> My options are to:
> 
> 1. Return to the original vendor for full refund. I’m still in return period.
> 
> 2. Keep the refurbished unit and keep my fingers crossed.
> 
> 3. Request Epson to send me brand new unit as the CSR told me that I would be getting a new one this time.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> I’m just not sure how prevalent this power supply issue is and whether or not the refurbished model I received would have different power supply part or a different issue entirely.
> 
> I’m considering returning this and waiting on the sidelines longer for maybe a Epson 5050? Haven’t heard anything about a new model coming out, but I’m new to this whole forum.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Wow, don't blame you a bit for being upset. I'd be livid! I've had 3 Epson pj's and never had to use the warranty.......yet. Therefore I have no experience with their refurbs but I have bought a lot of electronics that were refurbs & never had a problem with any of them. This power supply problem is looking scary. If I had the same experience as you and I was still within the retailer's return window I'd think hard about returning it. Best of luck with your decision!


Ed


----------



## gene4ht

carp said:


> Refurbished units almost always have issues. I had multiple returns with the 8350 and also the 3500. Everytime they send a refurbished unit first and everything there was something wrong. Usually it's uniformity on focus. Put some computer text on the screen and I'm willing to bet you won't be able to get the whole screen focused at the same time. I had other issues, one of them didn't turn on and another the focus ring was stuck and wouldn't budge.


IIRC, although you were quite happy with your 5040, earlier you were in the process of selling it to purchase one of the JVC PJ's. Can you share with us what your ultimate decision was?


----------



## JewDaddy

WynsWrld98 said:


> I would do #1 and either rebuy 5040 guaranteeing a new one or wait for possible 5050. If there is a 5050 (I think likely) it likely would be announced at CEDIA 9/2017 and released within a couple of months of that date based on how releases of Epson 5/6 series projectors have been released in the past. I would think they'd want to get a model out with a 18 gb hdmi chipset to solve compatibility issues so I think highly likely a 5050 being announced 9/2017. JVC, their competitor has been offering projectors with 18 gb chip set for multiple model years. If you can't wait that long then you could reorder a NEW 5040 and be guaranteed you get a new one. All of the reports of power supply problems is really disappointing that Epson let things get this far with whoever supplies them. I have a 5040 and am afraid it will bite me.




I’m assuming you mean 9/2018.....?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

JewDaddy said:


> WynsWrld98 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would do #1 and either rebuy 5040 guaranteeing a new one or wait for possible 5050. If there is a 5050 (I think likely) it likely would be announced at CEDIA 9/2017 and released within a couple of months of that date based on how releases of Epson 5/6 series projectors have been released in the past. I would think they'd want to get a model out with a 18 gb hdmi chipset to solve compatibility issues so I think highly likely a 5050 being announced 9/2017. JVC, their competitor has been offering projectors with 18 gb chip set for multiple model years. If you can't wait that long then you could reorder a NEW 5040 and be guaranteed you get a new one. All of the reports of power supply problems is really disappointing that Epson let things get this far with whoever supplies them. I have a 5040 and am afraid it will bite me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I?m assuming you mean 9/2018.....?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes, doh!


----------



## ANDYK48

Hello,
Just wanted your opinion. I am using the projector with my HTPC. The HTPC recognizes the projector as 4K so it adjusts the desktop resolution to 4K as well. I would like to know what is better when watching 1080p content (blu ray).
Leave the HTPC resolution to 4K ? or set the HTPC resolution to 1080p and let the EPSON apply the 4K enhancement ?
Thanks a lot.
Andreas


----------



## gt9450

*xbox one s connected to oppo 203 connected to epson 6040*

I was able to get a green checks after running my xbox one s into the hdmi input on the Oppo 203 connected to my Epson 6040.


----------



## dholmes54

Mr Harper I was referring to a new thumb drive.


----------



## xxrb1

xxrb1 said:


> Thanks for the reply, I check the oppo 203 and did not find my issue but something relevant, see below. The issue is that the oppo does not display anything except a message saying that a dolby vision video output cannot be altered.
> 
> I read on the oppo thread that I should configure the oppo before the dolby vision disk is inserted, because after everything is locked. Will try it.


Solved my issue by forcing the oppo 203 in BT2020, 4:2:2, 12 bit, and 24 Hz before inserting the blu-ray, in case some will have the same issue with Dolby Vision blu-ray.


----------



## mrdh68

Hi there!

I have a TW9300, which is the same projector in US known as the 5040UB, and I'm still in the Bluray format. I'm deciding to get a media player such as Zidoo, Himedia or Egreat, but I'd like to know if there's anyone here that can suggest the best option to get the best projector's performance with 4K HDR format.

Thanks


----------



## marco1975

mrdh68 said:


> Hi there!
> 
> I have a TW9300, which is the same projector in US known as the 5040UB, and I'm still in the Bluray format. I'm deciding to get a media player such as Zidoo, Himedia or Egreat, but I'd like to know if there's anyone here that can suggest the best option to get the best projector's performance with 4K HDR format.
> 
> Thanks


iam using the zidoo X10 , and it perform just fine with the TW9300.


----------



## JewDaddy

Has anyone been able to get one of the linkers to work with the Epson and get 4K from a pc?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mrdh68

marco1975 said:


> iam using the zidoo X10 , and it perform just fine with the TW9300.


Thanks a lot for your tip! For now I'm using a the PCH A-500 which is great, very stable and awesome PQ. I was surprised by the picture quality as I was using Panasonic BD Players for a long time for my BDs collections. This media player is great if you don't need full BD menu or HDR.

What about Zidoo X10? How much is the HDD bay max capacity, i mean, How many TB? Does it have any kind of issues? 

Thanks!


----------



## sddp

randy.walters.90 said:


> Update: Received my 3rd projector today and it came in a refurbished box. I’m not thrilled about it because it’s less than a month old and I purchased a brand new unit.
> 
> My options are to:
> 
> 1. Return to the original vendor for full refund. I’m still in return period.
> 
> 2. Keep the refurbished unit and keep my fingers crossed.
> 
> 3. Request Epson to send me brand new unit as the CSR told me that I would be getting a new one this time.
> 
> Any advice?
> 
> I’m just not sure how prevalent this power supply issue is and whether or not the refurbished model I received would have different power supply part or a different issue entirely.
> 
> I’m considering returning this and waiting on the sidelines longer for maybe a Epson 5050? Haven’t heard anything about a new model coming out, but I’m new to this whole forum.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


ABSOLUTELY #1 !!!

A refurb unit costs about %20+ less. So if you have a refurb this early in the game then you should have paid %20 less

They are way cheaper now then when I bought mine in Nov 2016. So you should be able to get a great deal anywhere if you hunt. Just make sure it is %100 authorized dealer.

Less than a month paying full price of a new unit only to have a refurb? I don't think so!
Maybe for a $89 product, but not when you're talking about thousands of $


----------



## siuengr

JewDaddy said:


> Has anyone been able to get one of the linkers to work with the Epson and get 4K from a pc?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have no problem getting 4k from a PC with or without the Linker in place using a GTX 1050Ti.


----------



## marco1975

mrdh68 said:


> Thanks a lot for your tip! For now I'm using a the PCH A-500 which is great, very stable and awesome PQ. I was surprised by the picture quality as I was using Panasonic BD Players for a long time for my BDs collections. This media player is great if you don't need full BD menu or HDR.
> 
> What about Zidoo X10? How much is the HDD bay max capacity, i mean, How many TB? Does it have any kind of issues?
> 
> Thanks!


It support 3.5" SATA hard drive up to 10TB  
i been using it for like 3 month til now, with out any issue, i bought it togather with the Nvidia shield, then i tried them both, at the end i kept the Zidoo x10 and returned the Nvidia sheild, both are great preformer, but i just prefer the Zidoo x10 picture qaulity proccessing better, the Nvida sheild has a brighter picture , but the Zidoo has deeper color and black level , which gives more depth to the over all picture.


----------



## Juiced46

gt9450 said:


> I was able to get a green checks after running my xbox one s into the hdmi input on the Oppo 203 connected to my Epson 6040.


Interesting. The Xbox probably sees your Oppo as a display that is capable of all of those signals. Do games play in 4K/HDR 8 bit passing through the Oppo?



simonk83 said:


> Ok great, this sucker I assume: https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> 
> I saw someone earlier say (though I'll need to go back and read it) they were having issues with Atmos not working for some reason after installing the Linker. I guess as I only need it for the PS4 I could just installed it between the PS4 and Epson (rather than the amp and PS4) so that it's only involved with the PS4 and nothing else?


Yes, that is what you need. I run my Linker on the output of my AVR. I never tried it between the source and my AVR. I do not have an Atmos setup so unfortunately I cannot help you there. 



Dave Harper said:


> Yes you can use a USB Flash drive. It has two file formats, MP4 and TS from what I recall seeing in my files and I see here:
> 
> https://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/dvs_products.html
> 
> I am able to play the MP4 versions on my FireTV box and Panasonic UB900 UHD Bluray player. I haven't tried it on my son's XBox 1 and we don't have a PS4.
> 
> You don't need equipment for the basic test patterns for brightness contrast color tint sharpness etc. but if you want to set greyscale, CMS, gamma, etc. right you should have a meter and calibration software.


Thanks Dave. Right now I am looking at just using basic patterns. I feel my image looks pretty good as is. I am just debating if I want to dig deeper into calibrating and spending more $$.


----------



## gt9450

*Epson 6040 & Oppo 203 info from Xbox One S in Oppo HDMI in*



Juiced46 said:


> Interesting. The Xbox probably sees your Oppo as a display that is capable of all of those signals. Do games play in 4K/HDR 8 bit passing through the Op?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is what you need. I run my Linker on the output of my AVR. I never tried it between the source and my AVR. I do not have an Atmos setup so unfortunately I cannot help you there.


----------



## Juiced46

gt9450 said:


> Juiced46 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. The Xbox probably sees your Oppo as a display that is capable of all of those signals. Do games play in 4K/HDR 8 bit passing through the Op?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is what you need. I run my Linker on the output of my AVR. I never tried it between the source and my AVR. I do not have an Atmos setup so unfortunately I cannot help you there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ahhh, well that is no good. It is converting it to 4K/30hz. You will be capped at 30fps and cannot utilize any games that do 60fps.
Click to expand...


----------



## Dave Harper

dholmes54 said:


> Mr Harper I was referring to a new thumb drive.


For what? Were we in a conversation that I don't recall? It helps to use the quote feature of the forum so that I am notified of a reply and also what conversation that reply is in reference to.

The only things I can think on this thread that would apply to thumb drives would be for firmware upgrade or for loading UHD Test Patterns onto for calibrations. Is it one of those?




Juiced46 said:


> Thanks Dave. Right now I am looking at just using basic patterns. I feel my image looks pretty good as is. I am just debating if I want to dig deeper into calibrating and spending more $$.


OK, then I still believe the Ryan Masciola patterns can work great for you, and are well worth the $25! There is a lot of basic user menu settings that these patterns can really help getting right. We have his UHD Blurays available too if you or anyone wants one of those instead.


----------



## jedi1982

Has anyone else had any trouble with the lens memory shifting some? Meaning I save my 16:9 or 2.35:1, but the lens setting keeps shifting up or down or side to side every now and then and have to recenter the projected image.


----------



## JewDaddy

siuengr said:


> I have no problem getting 4k from a PC with or without the Linker in place using a GTX 1050Ti.




What version firmware are you running on the Linker?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## siuengr

JewDaddy said:


> What version firmware are you running on the Linker?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I believe it is the latest, .25


----------



## JewDaddy

siuengr said:


> I believe it is the latest, .25




I’m running an older version which I think is 19.a or 19.c. Maybe I need to update and see if that fixes it. Thank you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gt9450

*Change Oppo output Res to auto from custom*



Juiced46 said:


> gt9450 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I went back into the Oppo changed the Oppo output Res to auto from custom. This is what came from the change. Now you see I am getting 60hz 8bit. I have my stuff hookup like this Xbox One S going into the Oppo going into Denon 4200W going into Epson 6040UB. I just ran my xbox one s into the hdmi input of the oppo just f***ing around. I normal have it hooked right into the Denon 4200w. Let me know if 60hz at 8bit is good I may just keep it in the hdmi input of the oppo.
> 
> Ahhh, well that is no good. It is converting it to 4K/30hz. You will be capped at 30fps and cannot utilize any games that do 60fps.
Click to expand...


----------



## JewDaddy

siuengr said:


> I believe it is the latest, .25


Updated to latest firmware and got all the settings back to where they were before and pc is still recognizing the Intel Linker at 1080P. Any suggestions? Could you maybe share your settings as one of mine could possibly be off and that's why I'm having this issue..?


----------



## JewDaddy

mase1981 said:


> You can either get the linker directly from the manufacturer: (Taiwan)
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> 
> Or you can get it from monoprice: (US)
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27330
> 
> [Update 12/11/2017] - Download and use firmware .25 (version 21), use the link below and go to download section.
> Manual, firmware, drivers and software can be found here:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/#tab-tab-download
> 
> You can either use a computer to do all that or buy an additional bluetooth adapter so you wont need a computer for the configuration (its just easier if you dont want to disconnect and move rooms each time, not a must:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/goblue/
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27329
> 
> Once you get it and put the 19a firmware, here are the config settings you need to do.
> added both from PC and via the Geo Blue.
> if you follow these settings exactly it will work with XB1S and get all greens.
> Honestly, this should be a sticky


Hi Mase. Thank you for the detailed instructions. I was using firmware 19 on my linker for a couple months and was able to get 4k hdr gaming on both my One X and PS4 Pro. However, my PC was not cooperating. It keeps showing the native resolution as 1080p and wouldn't let me select 4k when playing games. Sometimes a game would not even load up and show on the screen. Just stayed black. I went ahead and updated to firmware 25 and configured my settings via the pc exactly how you show in your screenshots. Xbox One X and Pro still playing at 4K HDR like they should but PC still shows 1080p. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?


----------



## mase1981

JewDaddy said:


> Hi Mase. Thank you for the detailed instructions. I was using firmware 19 on my linker for a couple months and was able to get 4k hdr gaming on both my One X and PS4 Pro. However, my PC was not cooperating. It keeps showing the native resolution as 1080p and wouldn't let me select 4k when playing games. Sometimes a game would not even load up and show on the screen. Just stayed black. I went ahead and updated to firmware 25 and configured my settings via the pc exactly how you show in your screenshots. Xbox One X and Pro still playing at 4K HDR like they should but PC still shows 1080p. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?


Hey, i don't use a PC in my theater room so i cannot answer with confident. but that being said, from logical stand of point it must be the way the computer output. 

Can u add a screenshot of ur output config? 
essentially if you can downscale your card to [email protected] 8bit you would not need the linker. 
if you send [email protected] change the linker config appropriately. 
I personally would play with each config and continue until it will work, if u have the BT dongle, its easier to config on the fly.


----------



## JewDaddy

mase1981 said:


> Hey, i don't use a PC in my theater room so i cannot answer with confident. but that being said, from logical stand of point it must be the way the computer output.
> 
> 
> 
> Can u add a screenshot of ur output config?
> 
> essentially if you can downscale your card to [email protected] 8bit you would not need the linker.
> 
> if you send [email protected] change the linker config appropriately.
> 
> I personally would play with each config and continue until it will work, if u have the BT dongle, its easier to config on the fly.




Thanks for the quick response. When you say screenshot of my output config, are you talking my Nvidia control panel resolution settings or the actual Linker settings I’m using? I’m trying to send the Linker 4K @ 60hz which is what I assumed my Pro and One X were sending as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mase1981

JewDaddy said:


> Thanks for the quick response. When you say screenshot of my output config, are you talking my Nvidia control panel resolution settings or the actual Linker settings I’m using? I’m trying to send the Linker 4K @ 60hz which is what I assumed my Pro and One X were sending as well
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i was referring to PC but add both, more info more changes of figuring it out.... 
are you sending NTCS or PAL ? 
here is the specs for the xb1x , what it need/send
https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/4k-on-xbox-one-technical-requirements


----------



## seplant

jedi1982 said:


> Has anyone else had any trouble with the lens memory shifting some? Meaning I save my 16:9 or 2.35:1, but the lens setting keeps shifting up or down or side to side every now and then and have to recenter the projected image.


See post #4180 which has instructions from Epson on how to correctly set lens memory and prevent the kind of shifting you are seeing. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

mase1981 said:


> i was referring to PC but add both, more info more changes of figuring it out....
> 
> are you sending NTCS or PAL ?
> 
> here is the specs for the xb1x , what it need/send
> 
> https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/console/4k-on-xbox-one-technical-requirements




Pc Display Settings:










Linker Config:















































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mase1981

JewDaddy said:


> Pc Display Settings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Linker Config:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why is your pc settings are set to output 1080p? You want to change that to output 4k. Am I missing something?


----------



## JewDaddy

mase1981 said:


> Why is your pc settings are set to output 1080p? You want to change that to output 4k. Am I missing something?




Because that’s what happens with the Linker hooked up. Lol. Without the Linker my native resolution is 4K. With the Linker it says my native is 1080p. So I change the resolution to 3840 x 2160 and then if I start a game, it either won’t start because there’s a resolution mismatch of some sort, or it says 1080p and then some games will either let me change to 4K or some won’t give me the option to go higher than 1080p. Just doesn’t seem normal that it thinks the native resolution is 1080 and gives me these issues. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Here’s a pic of what the Linker is showing while hooked up to my Epson and PC











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## siuengr

JewDaddy said:


> Updated to latest firmware and got all the settings back to where they were before and pc is still recognizing the Intel Linker at 1080P. Any suggestions? Could you maybe share your settings as one of mine could possibly be off and that's why I'm having this issue..?


I use mase1981's exact settings to get it to work with my xbox.


----------



## JewDaddy

siuengr said:


> I use mase1981's exact settings to get it to work with my xbox.




I did. Xbox One X and PS4 Pro work perfectly. PC is running into an issue. Just tried to play a game in 4K and the screen is black with just the sound playing. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

Dave Harper said:


> For what? Were we in a conversation that I don't recall? It helps to use the quote feature of the forum so that I am notified of a reply and also what conversation that reply is in reference to.
> 
> The only things I can think on this thread that would apply to thumb drives would be for firmware upgrade or for loading UHD Test Patterns onto for calibrations. Is it one of those?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OK, then I still believe the Ryan Masciola patterns can work great for you, and are well worth the $25! There is a lot of basic user menu settings that these patterns can really help getting right. We have his UHD Blurays available too if you or anyone wants one of those instead.


sry I was referring to doing the firmware upgrade on the Epson I cant get it to work,must be the new meds I'm on


----------



## ruggercb

I had a black screen with audio from PS4 until I turned off my Denon AVRs scaling. Do you have an AVR in between? 

I’ve thrown my linker in the doodad/dongle/wire box. It worked fine for PS4 but I couldn’t get ANY consistency with PC which is 90% of my usage. I can’t say it’s completely the linker; HDR on pc is really half baked...it seems that every different game acts differently. 

That said, do you have AC Origins? It has the best HDR implementation I’ve seen. I can even use my custom res of 3840x1600 with HDR and no linker! Epson still sees it as 1080p but that doesn’t matter really. The games run at that res and the picture is amazing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## siuengr

JewDaddy said:


> I did. Xbox One X and PS4 Pro work perfectly. PC is running into an issue. Just tried to play a game in 4K and the screen is black with just the sound playing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't game on the PC, so I haven't tried any games. I haven't changed anything since I added the linker, so I don't know what it says is native. I will have to look this evening and see what it says. It still boots up to 4K as default, so I haven't had a reason to change the resolution for anything.


----------



## ruggercb

I had a black screen with audio from PS4 until I turned off my Denon AVRs scaling. Do you have an AVR in between? 

I’ve thrown my linker in the doodad/dongle/wire box. It worked fine for PS4 but I couldn’t get ANY consistency with PC which is 90% of my usage. I can’t say it’s completely the linker; HDR on pc is really half baked...it seems that every different game acts differently. 

That said, do you have AC Origins? It has the best HDR implementation I’ve seen. I can even use my custom res of 3840x1600 with HDR and no linker! Epson still sees it as 1080p but that doesn’t matter really. The games run at that res and the picture is amazing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Sorry for being that guy, but this is a long thread with a lot of info that's tough to parse... so here's my question:

*Is there any consensus on the best source(s) for HDR content, both UHD disc and streaming? *

What sources can do 4k24 4:2:2 output for 4k60 HDR from streaming apps? 
Is there a UHD player that can do it for both discs and streaming apps? 
What about Plex?

I'm planning a theater upgrade around an HC 4000 or 5040, including 2.35:1 screen, Atmos AVR & height channels, UHD player, etc and want to make sure everything will work together with the least tinkering and (especially) returns/exchanges possible. 2.35:1 is my first priority for the upgrade, so all of the DLP options are out... but that leaves me to either navigate the HDMI bandwidth limitations of the Epsons or jump up significantly in price to a JVC. I already have a Sheild Pro 2017, Roku Premiere+ 2016, and Amazon Fire 4k HDR on hand already, though I'm pretty certain the Roku can only do 4k60 4:2:2, and Netflix won't output HDR at all if you set it to 4k30 4:2:2. It would be nice if a UHD player could also handle at least Netflix and Amazon HDR output as 4k24 4:2:2. 

Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## JewDaddy

siuengr said:


> I don't game on the PC, so I haven't tried any games. I haven't changed anything since I added the linker, so I don't know what it says is native. I will have to look this evening and see what it says. It still boots up to 4K as default, so I haven't had a reason to change the resolution for anything.




Thanks for checking on that for me. Not sure what setting I have wrong or if it’s in my setup. I have a 35ft HDMI cable going from my projector to my Linker. About a 4 ft from Linker to Yamaha Receiver and then a 6 or 8 ft from PC to Receiver. I’m not saying it can’t be a HDMI issue of some sort but the fact that my One X and Pro output 4K with HDR no problem leads me to believe that’s not the issue. I even switched the PC with the HDMI cable and same input that I’ve seen my One X work with. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Stephen Hopkins said:


> Sorry for being that guy, but this is a long thread with a lot of info that's tough to parse... so here's my question:
> 
> 
> 
> *Is there any consensus on the best source(s) for HDR content, both UHD disc and streaming? *
> 
> 
> What sources can do 4k24 4:2:2 output for 4k60 HDR from streaming apps?
> 
> Is there a UHD player that can do it for both discs and streaming apps?
> 
> What about Plex?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning a theater upgrade around an HC 4000 or 5040, including 2.35:1 screen, Atmos AVR & height channels, UHD player, etc and want to make sure everything will work together with the least tinkering and (especially) returns/exchanges possible. 2.35:1 is my first priority for the upgrade, so all of the DLP options are out... but that leaves me to either navigate the HDMI bandwidth limitations of the Epsons or jump up significantly in price to a JVC. I already have a Sheild Pro 2017, Roku Premiere+ 2016, and Amazon Fire 4k HDR on hand already, though I'm pretty certain the Roku can only do 4k60 4:2:2, and Netflix won't output HDR at all if you set it to 4k30 4:2:2. It would be nice if a UHD player could also handle at least Netflix and Amazon HDR output as 4k24 4:2:2.
> 
> 
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated.



Your shield will stream 4K HDR for all sources except Netflix which will be 1080p upscaled. If you want to get it to 4K HDR you will need to get a Linker. I believe the new Apple TV works for all sources (but please verify before u buy as I don't have one).

There are a couple UHD players that will also stream the sources you mentioned but I'm not up on the latest.

So with the right UHD player and the shield you should be covered but may have to switch to your UHD player to stream Netflix 4K HDR.

If your viewing distance is far enough you probably won't even notice the difference between Netflix 4K HDR and HD HDR upscaled. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

jwhn said:


> Your shield will stream 4K HDR for all sources except Netflix which will be 1080p upscaled. If you want to get it to 4K HDR you will need to get a Linker. I believe the new Apple TV works for all sources (but please verify before u buy as I don't have one).
> 
> There are a couple UHD players that will also stream the sources you mentioned but I'm not up on the latest.
> 
> So with the right UHD player and the shield you should be covered but may have to switch to your UHD player to stream Netflix 4K HDR.
> 
> If your viewing distance is far enough you probably won't even notice the difference between Netflix 4K HDR and HD HDR upscaled.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If there's a UHD player that would do Netflix 4K HDR and Shield will do the rest, I'd be fine with that. *Can anyone comment on what UHD player(s) will work*? 

1080p HDR from the Shield for Netflix wouldn't be a terrible compromise either, especially given the projector's native resolution. 

If an AppleTV would do everything, I'd consider it and put the Shield in another room... but since I need a UHD player regardless and already have the shield, that seems like a more logical path. 

Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## adkrauss

*Any Issues with 5040 Motherboard Failure?*

The motherboard on my Epson 5010e failed in under 3 yrs and I am told is a $1,000 fix!! Vertical color banded lines throughout the whole image area, that has gotten progressively worse. Epson was completely unapologetic and left me in the dust. Customer rep said "nothing I can do." I found their customer service appalling. Recognizing its still a relatively recent model, have people experienced any such problems w/5040? Thanks.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Stephen Hopkins said:


> If there's a UHD player that would do Netflix 4K HDR and Shield will do the rest, I'd be fine with that. *Can anyone comment on what UHD player(s) will work*?
> 
> 1080p HDR from the Shield for Netflix wouldn't be a terrible compromise either, especially given the projector's native resolution.
> 
> If an AppleTV would do everything, I'd consider it and put the Shield in another room... but since I need a UHD player regardless and already have the shield, that seems like a more logical path.
> 
> Thanks for the feedback!


To answer my own question, it looks like the Sony X800 can do Netflix HDR output at 4K24 4:2:2, while the Samsung K8500 can do it for both Netflix and Amazon. I can pick up a used K8500 locally for ~$65, vs ~$120 for an X800 on eBay... so I'll probably go the K8500 route, even though I'd prefer the build quality of the X800. 

The Shield will likely stay as well, mostly for Plex since it looks like it can handle HD audio passthrough, ATMOS, 4K HDR, etc. Are there any setup/settings tutorials for forcing the Shield to output 4k24 4:2:2? Thanks!


----------



## Shane M

I'll continue posting on my ongoing issues with the ATV4K and the color banding. I'm hoping someone can help me, or perhaps I can help someone else.

I have the ATV4K, an HDMI switch, an HDMI optical audio extractor, running 30' to the 5040UB. I am trying to troubleshoot severe color banding in HDR with this setup. I've tried every permutation of 4K/1080P, HDR/SDR, and refresh from 24-60Hz (to the extent the 5040 can support at 4K, which is 30Hz). I've settled in on trying to optimize 4K/HDR/24, 25 or 30Hz at any color chroma.

My banding issue is present in every one of them. See attached photo from the aerial screensaver over LA.

I tried eliminating variables and as a result, realized that the culprit was the optical audio extractor. When that's not in-line, the color banding is gone. Great news. Now to fix it, because I need the optical audio.

The audio extractor is here: http://a.co/3xQDphA - it supports up to 4K/60/4:4:4, and on paper should not be the issue. I talked with someone at J-Tech for 45 minutes this morning, and he was awesome, trying to aid me in troubleshooting the problem. But, we were unsuccessful. 

Where I sit now, is that I'm pushing 4K/HDR/24Hz at 4:2:2, which the 5040 confirms it's getting exactly. However, color banding is horrible with the optical audio extractor in-line. 

*Question 1: The ATV does not let me choose 4:2:0 chroma at 4K/HDR/24,25 or 30Hz. The only option is 4:2:2. Anyone know why??? I want to try 4:2:0 to see if this helps, because I've tried everything else. 

Question 2: Anyone have any ideas as to why the optical audio extractor would introduce color banding?*


----------



## Shane M

I just found this article:

http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/

That states that in the HDMI 2.0 spec, 4:2:0 is not supported at 4K/HDR below refresh rates of 50Hz.... ? Really?


----------



## Dave Harper

Shane M said:


> I'll continue posting on my ongoing issues with the ATV4K and the color banding. I'm hoping someone can help me, or perhaps I can help someone else.
> 
> I have the ATV4K, an HDMI switch, an HDMI optical audio extractor, running 30' to the 5040UB. I am trying to troubleshoot severe color banding in HDR with this setup. I've tried every permutation of 4K/1080P, HDR/SDR, and refresh from 24-60Hz (to the extent the 5040 can support at 4K, which is 30Hz). I've settled in on trying to optimize 4K/HDR/24, 25 or 30Hz at any color chroma.
> 
> My banding issue is present in every one of them. See attached photo from the aerial screensaver over LA.
> 
> I tried eliminating variables and as a result, realized that the culprit was the optical audio extractor. When that's not in-line, the color banding is gone. Great news. Now to fix it, because I need the optical audio.
> 
> The audio extractor is here: http://a.co/3xQDphA - it supports up to 4K/60/4:4:4, and on paper should not be the issue. I talked with someone at J-Tech for 45 minutes this morning, and he was awesome, trying to aid me in troubleshooting the problem. But, we were unsuccessful.
> 
> Where I sit now, is that I'm pushing 4K/HDR/24Hz at 4:2:2, which the 5040 confirms it's getting exactly. However, color banding is horrible with the optical audio extractor in-line.
> 
> *Question 1: The ATV does not let me choose 4:2:0 chroma at 4K/HDR/24,25 or 30Hz. The only option is 4:2:2. Anyone know why??? I want to try 4:2:0 to see if this helps, because I've tried everything else.
> 
> Question 2: Anyone have any ideas as to why the optical audio extractor would introduce color banding?*


Sorry to hear of your troubles. I don't have an ATV4, or would try to help you more, but one thing I discovered with the UB900 UHD Bluray Player and an Optoma UHZ65 projector is that when I send 4:2:2 to the UHZ65, I get horrible banding. I was able to force 4:4:4 10 or 12 bit in the UB900 to the UHZ65 and it totally eliminated the banding. See here:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...toma-uhz65-owners-thread-12.html#post55505854 

Maybe this is a similar issue with your ATV4, but it would be moot if you aren't able to try 4:2:0 or 4:4:4?


----------



## Dave Harper

Shane M said:


> I just found this article:
> 
> http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/
> 
> That states that in the HDMI 2.0 spec, 4:2:0 is not supported at 4K/HDR below refresh rates of 50Hz.... ? Really?


I believe in HDMI 2.0a or b it is allowed now, but I will have to check that to be sure.


----------



## Shane M

Dave Harper said:


> Sorry to hear of your troubles. I don't have an ATV4, or would try to help you more, but one thing I discovered with the UB900 UHD Bluray Player and an Optoma UHZ65 projector is that when I send 4:2:2 to the UHZ65, I get horrible banding. I was able to force 4:4:4 10 or 12 bit in the UB900 to the UHZ65 and it totally eliminated the banding. See here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...toma-uhz65-owners-thread-12.html#post55505854
> 
> Maybe this is a similar issue with your ATV4, but it would be moot if you aren't able to try 4:2:0 or 4:4:4?


I appreciate your reply. Yes, it does sound similar. I have a weird intuition that if I was able to force 4:2:0 at 4K/HDR/24Hz from the ATV4K, it would resolve the banding. I don't know why, even when the banding doesn't exist if the optical extractor isn't there. 

I updated my post with a screenshot by the way. I would love to get 4:2:0 working but it looks like that's not going to easily happen. So, I may need a workaround solution; either procuring a new optical extractor, or splitting the HDMI signal and sending one to the 5040, and then pulling the audio out of the other one.

edit: another option would be that since I purchased my HDMI switch, there are newer switches on the market that will switch up to 4K/HDR/4:4:4 and also extract audio. It wasn't a few months ago that I needed to buy two devices to (inexpensively) do this. So, I have purchased 2 new optical audio extractors and a new switch. I have plenty of things to try out this weekend and will reply back with an update.


----------



## jedi1982

seplant said:


> See post #4180 which has instructions from Epson on how to correctly set lens memory and prevent the kind of shifting you are seeing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


thank you!


----------



## trainfan

xxrb1 said:


> good news, got it working. Here are the steps:
> 
> - Disk Utility Management in Windows: Delete the volume, create a new Volume FAT32, name EPSON, NO quick format
> - Copy the bin file and a zip of the bin file, so 2 files as noted by @Rahjelli
> 
> I guess the No quick format with windows disk utility was the trick, but as @Rahjelli, maybe the two files helped also


copying the bin file and a zip file to the usb key was the only way I could get it to update


----------



## mrdh68

marco1975 said:


> It support 3.5" SATA hard drive up to 10TB
> i been using it for like 3 month til now, with out any issue, i bought it togather with the Nvidia shield, then i tried them both, at the end i kept the Zidoo x10 and returned the Nvidia sheild, both are great preformer, but i just prefer the Zidoo x10 picture qaulity proccessing better, the Nvida sheild has a brighter picture , but the Zidoo has deeper color and black level , which gives more depth to the over all picture.


It sounds great! And did you test it with 4K HDR mkv files? I mean did you perceive a greater picture improvement when compared to a BD50 standard bluray with the 4K enhancement from the Epson?
Sorry to bother you with this basic questions!  
There's someone here that recommended me to wait for the reviews of the Dune HD Pro 4K. Dune has great tradition in media players and proven quality...


----------



## marco1975

mrdh68 said:


> It sounds great! And did you test it with 4K HDR mkv files? I mean did you perceive a greater picture improvement when compared to a BD50 standard bluray with the 4K enhancement from the Epson?
> Sorry to bother you with this basic questions!
> There's someone here that recommended me to wait for the reviews of the Dune HD Pro 4K. Dune has great tradition in media players and proven quality...


Absolutely there is greater improvement with 4k HDR mkv file. when compared to standard BD. but to to be honest with u it's the HDR. effect that makes the whole different and not the increased resolution in the 4k source it self, remember this is still a native 1080p projector and not a true 4k. so it can,t show u your 4k source in it's full glory. but if HRD. Done right for movie during the transfer, then u are in for a treat  but don,t expect too much because no projector can even come close to the tv. experience when it comes to HDR.


----------



## ayrton

Lithium said:


> Movie Frame (24Fs): Auto
> 
> DVD 24Fs Conversion: Auto
> HDMI Deep Color: Auto (this is the one that activates the 12bit the Epson requires)
> 
> As far as streaming apps go I can confirm the following:
> Amazon: 4K24 + HDR works
> YouTube: 4K60 works, but no HDR
> Netflix: 4K24 + HDR works


You mention YouTube 4K60. Have you checked if your 8500 actually converts this to 24 fps per your setup??

I have mine setup the same and it doesn't convert disk or streaming.. Don't know why they list it in settings..

Contacted support twice and they were clueless.


----------



## siuengr

JewDaddy said:


> Thanks for checking on that for me. Not sure what setting I have wrong or if it’s in my setup. I have a 35ft HDMI cable going from my projector to my Linker. About a 4 ft from Linker to Yamaha Receiver and then a 6 or 8 ft from PC to Receiver. I’m not saying it can’t be a HDMI issue of some sort but the fact that my One X and Pro output 4K with HDR no problem leads me to believe that’s not the issue. I even switched the PC with the HDMI cable and same input that I’ve seen my One X work with.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I took a look last night. It definitely defaults to 4K. Here are a could of screenshots of the NVidia control panel and the display settings. I have a 6ft cable going from the PC to a HDMI switch, 10ft from switch to receiver, 3ft from AVR to Linker, and 35ft from Linker to projector.


----------



## Mr.G

Stephen Hopkins said:


> To answer my own question, it looks like the Sony X800 can do Netflix HDR output at 4K24 4:2:2, while the Samsung K8500 can do it for both Netflix and Amazon. I can pick up a used K8500 locally for ~$65, vs ~$120 for an X800 on eBay... so I'll probably go the K8500 route, even though I'd prefer the build quality of the X800.


I own the Epson HC4000 and Sony X800, it's a great combo for playing UHD Blu-rays. For streaming I find the X800 a little clunky but yes it will output 4K24 4:2:2 HDR on Netflix. But I have found (in my limited testing) that not all titles listed as UHD will give you HDR. I tried an episode of Travelers - Season 2 and got 4K24 4:2:2 SDR. I switched over to an episode of Marvel's The Punisher and got 4K24 4:2:2 HDR but the picture darkened noticeably. I'm not sure why that is since I've only recently starting streaming UHD on Netflix.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I get the same darkening on pretty much all Netflix HDR content... on my living room TV I have a separate calibration setting saved for HDR content to bring the brightness up to acceptable levels. If you can do it with Gamma that's the better method (without blowing out whites). Unfortunately, my living room TV doesn't have a Gamma adjustment so I have to do it mostly with increased contrast, at least as much as I can without blowing out the whites. 

Specific to Netflix, not all 4K content is HDR as well. If it's HDR, the tag will say "HDR" (and not 4K)... if it's 4K SDR, it will just say "4K".


----------



## JewDaddy

siuengr said:


> I took a look last night. It definitely defaults to 4K. Here are a could of screenshots of the NVidia control panel and the display settings. I have a 6ft cable going from the PC to a HDMI switch, 10ft from switch to receiver, 3ft from AVR to Linker, and 35ft from Linker to projector.




Nice. I wish mine did that :-(

So I’ve been posting on the HDfury forums about this issue and going back and forth with one of their technical guys and he finally decided my cables might be the issue. I don’t know exactly what he means by this so maybe you can help me understand. Lol. I have a 50ft HDMI from the projector straight to the Linker. Then I have a 6 or 8 ft HDMI from the Linker to my Receiver. Maybe I’m misunderstanding what he posted but it already sounds like I have it Setup the way he mentions.












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Mr.G said:


> I switched over to an episode of Marvel's The Punisher and got 4K24 4:2:2 *HDR but the picture darkened noticeably*. I'm not sure why that is since I've only recently starting streaming UHD on Netflix.





Stephen Hopkins said:


> *I get the same darkening on pretty much all Netflix HDR content*... on my living room TV I have a separate calibration setting saved for HDR content to bring the brightness up to acceptable levels. Specific to Netflix, not all 4K content is HDR as well.


In simple terms, HDR requires a lot of brightness. Whereas many flat panel displays have the necessary brightness...projectors do not at this time due to technical constraints. Although there are work arounds and various adjustments/settings to compensate, PJ's are in reality not ready for HDR prime time...yet.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Even with a bright 10-bit or 12-bit panel, Netflix HDR can require a separate calibration point... their implementation is all over the map, with it being 60/40 which HDR titles require the boosted gamma/contrast and which ones don't.


----------



## siuengr

I think what he is saying to do is go AVR->50ft->Linker->6ft->Projector. What you have now is AVR->6ft->Linker->50ft->Projector. 50ft is a long run though. I had issues at 4k60 with my setup losing sync, and had to rearrange some components with shorter run to the receiver to get them stable. If you take the Linker out to you see 4K resolution on the PC, or try bypassing the AVR and go straight from the PC to either the projector or though the Linker and see what you end up with.



JewDaddy said:


> Nice. I wish mine did that :-(
> 
> So I’ve been posting on the HDfury forums about this issue and going back and forth with one of their technical guys and he finally decided my cables might be the issue. I don’t know exactly what he means by this so maybe you can help me understand. Lol. I have a 50ft HDMI from the projector straight to the Linker. Then I have a 6 or 8 ft HDMI from the Linker to my Receiver. Maybe I’m misunderstanding what he posted but it already sounds like I have it Setup the way he mentions.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikesp1

Does anybody have calibration settings to share with the new firmware? Especially for HDR.


----------



## Mr.G

gene4ht said:


> In simple terms, HDR requires a lot of brightness. Whereas many flat panel displays have the necessary brightness...projectors do not at this time due to technical constraints. Although there are work arounds and various adjustments/settings to compensate, PJ's are in reality not ready for HDR prime time...yet.


Thanks for that which I kind of suspected. The whole nits thing between direct view panels and projectors is something I've only recently gotten into. My previous 1080p projector (Panasonic PT-AR100U) put out a bright and colorful picture even in eco mode so I was disappointed to see Netflix HDR streaming on the HC4000. With 1080p material the HC4000 is a great looking projector with better blacks than the AR100U so in that regard I'm glad I upgraded. I have until the 28th to revert my Netflix subscription back to the cheaper (non 4K) plan with no charge and it's something I'm likely to do.


----------



## JewDaddy

siuengr said:


> I think what he is saying to do is go AVR->50ft->Linker->6ft->Projector. What you have now is AVR->6ft->Linker->50ft->Projector. 50ft is a long run though. I had issues at 4k60 with my setup losing sync, and had to rearrange some components with shorter run to the receiver to get them stable. If you take the Linker out to you see 4K resolution on the PC, or try bypassing the AVR and go straight from the PC to either the projector or though the Linker and see what you end up with.




Gotcha! Ok I’ll give that a shot. Thanks for the help 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Mr.G said:


> Thanks for that which I kind of suspected. The whole nits thing between direct view panels and projectors is something I've only recently gotten into. My previous 1080p projector (Panasonic PT-AR100U) put out a bright and colorful picture even in eco mode so I was disappointed to see Netflix HDR streaming on the HC4000. With 1080p material the HC4000 is a great looking projector with better blacks than the AR100U so in that regard I'm glad I upgraded. I have until the 28th to revert my Netflix subscription back to the cheaper (non 4K) plan with no charge and it's something I'm likely to do.


You're welcome. I too came from a Panny (PT-AE3000) which gave me years of great entertainment value. IMO, the 5040 I now have is a substantial upgrade in terms of brightness, clarity, color, contrast, and sharpness. And its ability to upscale 1080 content to 4K is spectacular! However, its ability to do HDR justice (like all current projectors) falls short of what marketing folks would have us believe. I just feel that consumers should be aware of the limitations of current projectors WRT HDR capability. Perhaps in a couple of years, projectors will overcome the technical limitations. And apparently content providers like Netflix also have there own challenges to overcome. Until then, I'm very satisfied and pleased with the SDR images this PJ produces. I suspect your HC4000 performs similarly.


----------



## Dave Harper

gene4ht said:


> ...... However, its ability to do HDR justice (like all current projectors) falls short of what marketing folks would have us believe. .......



Have you tried my settings in your 5040? It makes a world of difference on HDR. See link below my signature.


----------



## Lithium

ayrton said:


> You mention YouTube 4K60. Have you checked if your 8500 actually converts this to 24 fps per your setup??
> 
> I have mine setup the same and it doesn't convert disk or streaming.. Don't know why they list it in settings..
> 
> Contacted support twice and they were clueless.


I just double checked this for you. When you play a standard YouTube video the Projector Info says 24hz. When I search for and play a 60fps video the Projector Info says 60hz and it appears much smoother. Therefore, I can only assume it is correctly playing 60fps videos. Since the YouTube app on this player doesn't support HDR the 4K 60fps videos will play in non-HDR (8-bit) 60fps. If the app had support for HDR that 24fps setting would come into play and convert to HDR (12-bit) 24fps. This is what the Netflix app does.


----------



## rupedogg24

I've had the 5040 since launch. Have about 2500 hours on it. Only use Eco mode. The picture has always looked great. 

For the first time since I've had it I actually took the time to do a panel alignment. While I won't say that it was a significant improvement in picture quality, it sure as heck made the picture seem sharper to my eyes. This is my second projector and the first where panel alignment was an option. 

Has everyone done a panel alignment or am I the only idiot who waited over 1.5 years with the 5040 to do a panel alignment? I admit to admit I did not think it was all that important to the picture, but it is.


----------



## Lithium

rupedogg24 said:


> I've had the 5040 since launch. Have about 2500 hours on it. Only use Eco mode. The picture has always looked great.
> 
> For the first time since I've had it I actually took the time to do a panel alignment. While I won't say that it was a significant improvement in picture quality, it sure as heck made the picture seem sharper to my eyes. This is my second projector and the first where panel alignment was an option.
> 
> Has everyone done a panel alignment or am I the only idiot who waited over 1.5 years with the 5040 to do a panel alignment? I admit to admit I did not think it was all that important to the picture, but it is.


Yeah, I did the panel alignment and I agree it helps. Especially in images with sharp edges like text or areas that go from a bright white to a dark black. It will cut down on the 'chromatic aberration' look. (Even though that's not what it is.)

Additionally, I found the color uniformity adjustments to be even more critical. I didn't really even notice I had a problem until I was watching the opening B&W scenes of Kill Bill 2. The edges of the picture had a sort of light red tone that was exaggerated by the B&W. It was somewhat frustrating to adjust but once I got it dialed in the scenes looked 10x better to me and the red tone was gone. Snow scenes are also another place to look for uniformity problems. So, now the only place I can still sometimes spot slight disuniformity is on an entirely white image which are rare and usually occur in movies after a big explosion whites out the screen.


----------



## rupedogg24

Lithium said:


> Yeah, I did the panel alignment and I agree it helps. Especially in images with sharp edges like text or areas that go from a bright white to a dark black. It will cut down on the 'chromatic aberration' look. (Even though that's not what it is.)
> 
> Additionally, I found the color uniformity adjustments to be even more critical. I didn't really even notice I had a problem until I was watching the opening B&W scenes of Kill Bill 2. The edges of the picture had a sort of light red tone that was exaggerated by the B&W. It was somewhat frustrating to adjust but once I got it dialed in the scenes looked 10x better to me and the red tone was gone. Snow scenes are also another place to look for uniformity problems. So, now the only place I can still sometimes spot slight disuniformity is on an entirely white image which are rare and usually occur in movies after a big explosion whites out the screen.


LOL! You are way more advanced than me. I haven't touched the color uniformity adjustment. I'm just happy I got the panel alignment done. I may wait until next year to mess with the uniformity settings.


----------



## mrdh68

marco1975 said:


> Absolutely there is greater improvement with 4k HDR mkv file. when compared to standard BD. but to to be honest with u it's the HDR. effect that makes the whole different and not the increased resolution in the 4k source it self, remember this is still a native 1080p projector and not a true 4k. so it can,t show u your 4k source in it's full glory. but if HRD. Done right for movie during the transfer, then u are in for a treat  but don,t expect too much because no projector can even come close to the tv. experience when it comes to HDR.


I read a lot about the HDR effect that is a greater improvement than the resolution itself. Anyway it won't be as good as a good TV that surely takes better advantage from the HDR technology. But I'm sure that the this projector can offer something else as interesting. And let me tell you that, at this level of price, you won't get much better. A friend of mine has the JVC X7900 and I can assure you that it doesn't perform better than the Epson. I'm a bit impatient in testing HDR in my projector with a Dune, but as see some bad reviews (I mean from users here in the Forums) I feel a bit skeptic in getting a "chinese" media player. When compering with Egreat, Himedia and Zappiti I see that Zidoo stands out!


----------



## gene4ht

Dave Harper said:


> Have you tried my settings in your 5040? It makes a world of difference on HDR. See link below my signature.


Hi Dave! Yes I have...Oledurt's as well...and they indeed make a difference. IMO your many contributions to this hobby, forum, and thread have been very helpful and very much appreciated. My earlier comment, however, was directed toward the fact that the implementation of HDR for PJs is not yet a mature technology. That is, out of the box, a new PJ owner should not expect a reasonably good HDR image without some level tinkering and/or manipulation. Hence my previous comment...

"there are work arounds and various adjustments/settings to compensate"

And since I own a Panny UB900, I've also used its "slider" function to improve image quality. The industry...from PJ manufacturers...to film makers...to content providers still have some work to do before plug and play HDR is a reality and consumers no longer complain about "dark" images.


----------



## marco1975

mrdh68 said:


> I read a lot about the HDR effect that is a greater improvement than the resolution itself. Anyway it won't be as good as a good TV that surely takes better advantage from the HDR technology. But I'm sure that the this projector can offer something else as interesting. And let me tell you that, at this level of price, you won't get much better. A friend of mine has the JVC X7900 and I can assure you that it doesn't perform better than the Epson. I'm a bit impatient in testing HDR in my projector with a Dune, but as see some bad reviews (I mean from users here in the Forums) I feel a bit skeptic in getting a "chinese" media player. When compering with Egreat, Himedia and Zappiti I see that Zidoo stands out!


i have to admite that i missed the contrast and black level on jvc projector and here the epson can,t realy match , but otherwise as u have said for the price it's a very good value. i have had players from dune and zappiti before but let me tell u thise, the build qaulity of the Zidoo X10 honestly is second to none, and it looks stunning just as soon as u unbox it and hold it in your hands, it will give u the impresison of a far more expensive player.


----------



## ayrton

rupedogg24 said:


> I've had the 5040 since launch. Have about 2500 hours on it. Only use Eco mode. The picture has always looked great.
> 
> For the first time since I've had it I actually took the time to do a panel alignment. While I won't say that it was a significant improvement in picture quality, it sure as heck made the picture seem sharper to my eyes. This is my second projector and the first where panel alignment was an option.
> 
> Has everyone done a panel alignment or am I the only idiot who waited over 1.5 years with the 5040 to do a panel alignment? I admit to admit I did not think it was all that important to the picture, but it is.


I think I did!


----------



## JewDaddy

Does anyone think there could be a problem with me running my Linker into the projector’s USB for power? I ask because if running a shorter cable between my Linker and Projector fixes my PC issue, I don’t want to have to run another power cord all the way over to where my projector is mounted on a shelf. I was hoping I could just plug the usb from the Linker into the projector and have it get power that way. So anytime the projector is on, the Linker will have power. Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mrdh68

marco1975 said:


> mrdh68 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I read a lot about the HDR effect that is a greater improvement than the resolution itself. Anyway it won't be as good as a good TV that surely takes better advantage from the HDR technology. But I'm sure that the this projector can offer something else as interesting. And let me tell you that, at this level of price, you won't get much better. A friend of mine has the JVC X7900 and I can assure you that it doesn't perform better than the Epson. I'm a bit impatient in testing HDR in my projector with a Dune, but as see some bad reviews (I mean from users here in the Forums) I feel a bit skeptic in getting a "chinese" media player. When compering with Egreat, Himedia and Zappiti I see that Zidoo stands out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have to admite that i missed the contrast and black level on jvc projector and here the epson can,t realy match , but otherwise as u have said for the price it's a very good value. i have had players from dune and zappiti before but let me tell u thise, the build qaulity of the Zidoo X10 honestly is second to none, and it looks stunning just as soon as u unbox it and hold it in your hands, it will give u the impresison of a far more expensive player.
Click to expand...

I know what you mean regarding the native black levels of JVC projector but I use a 21:9, with a fixed frame screen with a dark grey canvas (for high contrast but with a 0.8 gain) which gives you deeper black levels. Try that and you won't be sorry.

What a about the sound and picture quality of the Zidoo when compared to other equipment that you use before? I have a Pioneer Atmos receiver 7.2.4 channels that sound great with the A500.


----------



## picktrekker

I just today bought an Apple TV 4k device. I have the epson 6040ube, or in my country named epson tw9300w, wireless version.

I read in here that everybody talks about Apple TV 4k and the epson having it on 24 or 30 hz, or else won't work, but mine is very good standard already in 60hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, bt 2020 HDR mode, very happy with it. must be the fact that it is the wireless version, I think some kind of different chip in it.

Even Netflix I now can watch in 60hz, HDR on the epson. On playstation it wasn't possible

Photo is in dutch made with bad phone camera:

#edit : 12 bit 4:2:2 is also available for me @30Hz, shame there isn't 40hz, 50 is not working with 12 bit 4:2:2,,
I find that 60hz, 8 bit 4:2:0 gives a bit, tiny bit sharper image, but 30hz, 12 bit gives very nice colors, bit better if 
you compare but a 'normal ' person wouldn't notice that.


photo upload


----------



## marco1975

mrdh68 said:


> What a about the sound and picture quality of the Zidoo when compared to other equipment that you use before? I have a Pioneer Atmos receiver 7.2.4 channels that sound great with the A500.


It's just as good as the Dune 4k. and the Zappiti mini 4k. HDR that i had before, i have it hooked to a
Marantz Sr7011/Rotel RMB-1575 in an Atmos 7.2.4 setup and it sounds great.


----------



## mrdh68

marco1975 said:


> It's just as good as the Dune 4k. and the Zappiti mini 4k. HDR that i had before, i have it hooked to a
> Marantz Sr7011/Rotel RMB-1575 in an Atmos 7.2.4 setup and it sounds great.


So you recommend the Zidoo without much questions, do you?


----------



## marco1975

mrdh68 said:


> So you recommend the Zidoo without much questions, do you?


yes i would , the new dune player also look interesting, i have heard zidoo are coming with a new flagship player soon.


----------



## Dominic Chan

marco1975 said:


> yes i would , the new dune player also look interesting, i have heard zidoo are coming with a new flagship player soon.


Do these work with Netflix in HD and Ultra HD modes? Apparently many devices do not, due to lack of DRM certification.


----------



## lavakv

Anyone paired the new Philips 7502 with the 5040ub yet? Same solid performance with respect to 4k/WCG/HDR as the 7501?

I know the Dolby Vision upgrade does not have any benefit for those of us with the 5040ub, but the 7501 seems to be a dying breed and actually more expensive from most sources.


----------



## mrdh68

marco1975 said:


> yes i would
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , the new dune player also look interesting, i have heard zidoo are coming with a new flagship player soon.


I'm seeing a Zidoo X10 for 226 euro + shipping in amazon. Is this a good price?


----------



## marco1975

Dominic Chan said:


> Do these work with Netflix in HD and Ultra HD modes? Apparently many devices do not, due to lack of DRM certification.


I never use Netflix or any streaming services, i use it only to stream from my Nas/Network. 


mrdh68 said:


> I'm seeing a Zidoo X10 for 226 euro + shipping in amazon. Is this a good price?


That is what i personally paid, i don,t think u can find it cheaper...but google anyway, could be u get lucky


----------



## adkrauss

seplant said:


> There have been many reports of these projectors not firing up initially and the fan running on high for a minute or two before eventually firing up and then running normally. My projector did this frequently, but I just got a replacement from Epson for a different issue. I'll be watching for this issue on my replacement.
> 
> There have also been reports of some projectors not starting up at all, presumably because of failed power supplies. Hard to say if there is any connection between the failure to fire up initially and the completely failed power supplies.
> 
> The main thing to remember is that Epson will treat you right no matter what issues you might have. Their support is second to none.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


In my book Epson is second to most in customer service. I had an Epson 5010e that lasted under three years before the motherboard failed - a $1,000 fix! Epson rep was completely unapologetic and said "there is nothing I can do" and left me in the dust.


----------



## mrdh68

marco1975 said:


> I never use Netflix or any streaming services, i use it only to stream from my Nas/Network.
> 
> That is what i personally paid, i don,t think u can find it cheaper...but google anyway, could be u get lucky


Sorry to bother you again. Can Zidoo X10 work as a Plex server instead of my PC or a NAS?


----------



## Shane M

For anyone doubting HDR on this projector, check this out.

When playing around with my settings on the ATV and 5040, I took some photos. This is with the ATV4K hooked up directly to the 5040, pushing a 4K HDR BDMV file of Blade Runner 2049. This is a dark scene with some otherwise bright elements. There is a little ambiguity here because I took it with my iPhone, and couldn't keep the settings consistent between shots. I admit that the difference may be VERY slightly exaggerated, but it is quite clear to the naked eye as well, even at viewing distance (these shots were taken from about 2' away)

I present to you, shots of the same scene in 1080P HDR, 4K SDR and 4K HDR. Very clearly IMO, 1080P HDR is much better than 4K SDR, with 4K HDR even slightly better than that. Also, I'm pushing the same 4K file even when in 1080P so there is some processing there that could be affecting the image. I presume a native 1080P HDR file would be a little better than what I'm showing here.

edit: Apologies for them being upside down. Not sure why the forum software did that.


----------



## mrdh68

Shane M said:


> For anyone doubting HDR on this projector, check this out.
> 
> When playing around with my settings on the ATV and 5040, I took some photos. This is with the ATV4K hooked up directly to the 5040, pushing a 4K HDR BDMV file of Blade Runner 2049. This is a dark scene with some otherwise bright elements. There is a little ambiguity here because I took it with my iPhone, and couldn't keep the settings consistent between shots. I admit that the difference may be VERY slightly exaggerated, but it is quite clear to the naked eye as well, even at viewing distance (these shots were taken from about 2' away)
> 
> I present to you, shots of the same scene in 1080P HDR, 4K SDR and 4K HDR. Very clearly IMO, 1080P HDR is much better than 4K SDR, with 4K HDR even slightly better than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I'm pushing the same 4K file even when in 1080P so there is some processing there that could be affecting the image. I presume a native 1080P HDR file would be a little better than what I'm showing here.
> 
> edit: Apologies for them being upside down. Not sure why the forum software did that.


Hello! Difficult to see the the difference in the pictures. What media 4K HDR player have you connected to you projector?


----------



## marco1975

mrdh68 said:


> Sorry to bother you again. Can Zidoo X10 work as a Plex server instead of my PC or a NAS?


i havn,t tried it my self, but i think it should, can,t see why not


----------



## The_Forth_Man

mrdh68 said:


> What media 4K HDR player have you connected to you projector?





Shane M said:


> This is with the ATV4K hooked up directly to the 5040, pushing a 4K HDR BDMV file of Blade Runner 2049.


Since it's from a file there's also the way it was encoded that could be into play how large is that file.


----------



## Dave Harper

JewDaddy said:


> Does anyone think there could be a problem with me running my Linker into the projector’s USB for power? I ask because if running a shorter cable between my Linker and Projector fixes my PC issue, I don’t want to have to run another power cord all the way over to where my projector is mounted on a shelf. I was hoping I could just plug the usb from the Linker into the projector and have it get power that way. So anytime the projector is on, the Linker will have power. Thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



There shouldn't be an issue at all using the projector's USB for power. Just make sure the power specs of the AC adapter for the HDFury are the same. 

Those are used to power things like fiber HDMI baluns all the time with no issue, just as I am doing now with my full 4K 18Gbps Celerity Fiber HDMI cable. 



gene4ht said:


> Hi Dave! Yes I have...Oledurt's as well...and they indeed make a difference. IMO your many contributions to this hobby, forum, and thread have been very helpful and very much appreciated. My earlier comment, however, was directed toward the fact that the implementation of HDR for PJs is not yet a mature technology.  That is, out of the box, a new PJ owner should not expect a reasonably good HDR image without some level tinkering and/or manipulation. Hence my previous comment...
> 
> "there are work arounds and various adjustments/settings to compensate"
> 
> And since I own a Panny UB900, I've also used its "slider" function to improve image quality. The industry...from PJ manufacturers...to film makers...to content providers still have some work to do before plug and play HDR is a reality and consumers no longer complain about "dark" images.



Thanks for the kudos and explanations gene4ht!

On a side note since we're talking about HarperVision, it appears the Germans have "borrowed" my ideas and concepts for the Epsons and used them on the Sony VW285ES and VW385ES, creating custom gamma curves and settings to download for those models where you turn off HDR and force it to SDR. (Sound familiar?  )

This is something I've been wanting to try for a long time, but didn't get another Sony here until recently, just after they released "their tweak". I tried it last night and did an initial calibration and wow....just *WOW*!!! I thought it looked great on these Epsons (which it really does!), but on the native 4K Sonys........  I can't wait to try it on the laser phosphor 4K Sony VW885ES!


----------



## sddp

SALadder22FF said:


> I have the Ube and use the Harmony.
> 
> Works flawlessly.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


How many days are getting between charges?
I am using the Harmony 880 (about 10 years old) and lasts about a week or more. Works perfectly, just doesn't power on or off the Epson that is behind me hanging from the ceiling and annoying having to use the Epson's remote in addition to the harmony.
Also use the Epson's remote to change color modes, etc. Can all that be done with the Harmony Elite?


----------



## SALadder22FF

sddp said:


> How many days are getting between charges?
> I am using the Harmony 880 (about 10 years old) and lasts about a week or more. Works perfectly, just doesn't power on or off the Epson that is behind me hanging from the ceiling and annoying having to use the Epson's remote in addition to the harmony.
> Also use the Epson's remote to change color modes, etc. Can all that be done with the Harmony Elite?


Yes it turns on the Epson that is hanging behind me and you can program it to have hard buttons change the color mode or just scroll through the touchscreen to change them. I actually have a setting where I press Harper Vision on the logitech touch screen and it goes through all the necessary steps on the Epson to change my setting to the saved preset of Harper vision.

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Shane M

The_Forth_Man said:


> Since it's from a file there's also the way it was encoded that could be into play how large is that file.


I hear what you're saying but this is a BR disk image; it's not re-encoded. VLC sees the main file as a 80GB m2ts file with 4K, 23.976Hz, Planar 4:2:0 YUV 10-Bit LE in a HEVC container.


----------



## Shane M

mrdh68 said:


> Hello! Difficult to see the the difference in the pictures. What media 4K HDR player have you connected to you projector?


Really? Look at the piano keys - the sheet music?


----------



## sddp

SALadder22FF said:


> Yes it turns on the Epson that is hanging behind me and you can program it to have hard buttons change the color mode or just scroll through the touchscreen to change them. I actually have a setting where I press Harper Vision on the logitech touch screen and it goes through all the necessary steps on the Epson to change my setting to the saved preset of Harper vision.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


How long does the battery last between charges?


Also where do you keep the hub?

My entire entertainment rack is in front of me whilst the Epson is hanging behind me as well and not sure where to put the hub


----------



## SALadder22FF

sddp said:


> How long does the battery last between charges?
> 
> 
> Also where do you keep the hub?
> 
> My entire entertainment rack is in front of me whilst the Epson is hanging behind me as well and not sure where to put the hub


It depends on usage. Usually 5 days to a week.

My hub is up front with all other components. I took a quick pic just now and circled where it's it. The ir blasters are necessary for some of those things, but not the Epson.









Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

SALadder22FF said:


> It depends on usage. Usually 5 days to a week.
> 
> My hub is up front with all other components. I took a quick pic just now and circled where it's it. The ir blasters are necessary for some of those things, but not the Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Thanks, my set up is very similar even have edge free with LEDs and same horizontal cabinet just like yours with Klipsch speakers

But what I am confused on is how does that hub get info to your Epson that is behind you upside down with it's IR window on your right side with the hub on the bottom left?

The only way I figured to make it work is to get a 35+ feet 2.5mm extension cable for one of the IR blasters and run than from the hub up the ceiling to the project but seems a lame way to do it.

I called Logitech inquiring about this a few times, and the language barrier is... well confusing.


----------



## Dave Harper

SALadder22FF said:


> Yes it turns on the Epson that is hanging behind me and you can program it to have hard buttons change the color mode or just scroll through the touchscreen to change them. I actually have a setting where I press Harper Vision on the logitech touch screen and it goes through all the necessary steps on the Epson to change my setting to the saved preset of Harper vision.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk



Cool, I'm a Harmony button now!


----------



## SALadder22FF

sddp said:


> Thanks, my set up is very similar even have edge free with LEDs and same horizontal cabinet just like yours with Klipsch speakers
> 
> But what I am confused on is how does that hub get info to your Epson that is behind you upside down with it's IR window on your right side with the hub on the bottom left?
> 
> The only way I figured to make it work is to get a 35+ feet 2.5mm extension cable for one of the IR blasters and run than from the hub up the ceiling to the project but seems a lame way to do it.
> 
> I called Logitech inquiring about this a few times, and the language barrier is... well confusing.


Not sure but the 5040 has never had an issue turning on or off with the hub. No problem. And it's right behind me


Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Shane M said:


> I hear what you're saying but this is a BR disk image; it's not re-encoded. VLC sees the main file as a 80GB m2ts file with 4K, 23.976Hz, Planar 4:2:0 YUV 10-Bit LE in a HEVC container.


Thanks,

Thats why I was asking about the file size


----------



## JewDaddy

Guys, I have a stupid question. So I’m the person that’s been continuing to ask and hope that maybe there’s a way for Epson to release a firmware upgrade that will allow us to use FI while native 4K mode is enabled at least with a 24hz signal. You can watch a blu-ray with 4K enhancement on but if you turn 4K enchantment on with anything other than a 24hz signal, no FI. And obviously no FI with a native 4K signal no matter what. 

So my question is this, with devices such as the HDFury Linker which allows us to get native 4K HDR Gaming, is there such a device that simulates FI? What I mean by that is since the projector doesn’t have that capability with a native 4K signal, is there anything out there that can add FI to a native 4K signal, such as watching a UHD Movie? I’d didn’t know if maybe an expensive Oppo player has that built in, kinda like how the Panny 4K player I have allows you to up the HDR Brightness. I’m sure it’s not possible but just curious if there’s anything out there that can. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Nexgen76

Okay maybe i missed something but for some reason after i add Oledurt HDR setting, When i cut my projector off the setting not saving what I'm i doing wrong ?


----------



## WynsWrld98

JewDaddy said:


> Guys, I have a stupid question. So I’m the person that’s been continuing to ask and hope that maybe there’s a way for Epson to release a firmware upgrade that will allow us to use FI while native 4K mode is enabled at least with a 24hz signal. You can watch a blu-ray with 4K enhancement on but if you turn 4K enchantment on with anything other than a 24hz signal, no FI. And obviously no FI with a native 4K signal no matter what.
> 
> So my question is this, with devices such as the HDFury Linker which allows us to get native 4K HDR Gaming, is there such a device that simulates FI? What I mean by that is since the projector doesn’t have that capability with a native 4K signal, is there anything out there that can add FI to a native 4K signal, such as watching a UHD Movie? I’d didn’t know if maybe an expensive Oppo player has that built in, kinda like how the Panny 4K player I have allows you to up the HDR Brightness. I’m sure it’s not possible but just curious if there’s anything out there that can.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


As long as this projector has been out I am highly doubtful of a firmware update for FI with 4K, probably with the successor 5050/6050 only.


----------



## db999md

DrNorm said:


> 4k/60Hz/HDR is NOT supported. (4k/60Hx SDR, is)
> 
> on the 5040, HDR is ONLY supported with 2 specific signals: 4k/24Hz with *4:2:2* chroma subsampling *@ 10-bit or 12-bit color
> *
> (she chart below from 5040 user manual)
> 
> XB1S specs says it does not support these signals as an output (*but* some XB1S users claim to be viewing streams in HDR)
> *NVIDIA Shield can reportedly output these signals*
> It is still not clear to me whether the new Apple TV can output these signals. (there have been mixed reports over past few days)
> 
> So, it looks like the Nvidia Shield is the ONLY way view streaming content in HDR- unless there have been changes to the Xbox One S which allow it to also output a 4k/24Hz/4:2:2 10-bit signal. The spec sheet says "no" but some of the forum members say that they are able to now see this.



Just an FYI - the samsung 8500 UHD blu-ray player does output netflix in HDR properly to the Epson 5040ub. 
Dennis


----------



## Dave2sb

I used the hdfury linker to strip hdr while still getting rec2020. I was wondering what kind of results anyone else got while doing this. I?m using digital cinema and also found that it looked best to switch gamma from 0 to 2. I?ll post a pic of standard blu Ray in cinema mode and a uhd blu Ray with the setting mentioned above. Please let me know what you guys think.


----------



## raf77

rupedogg24 said:


> I've had the 5040 since launch. Have about 2500 hours on it. Only use Eco mode. The picture has always looked great.
> 
> For the first time since I've had it I actually took the time to do a panel alignment. While I won't say that it was a significant improvement in picture quality, it sure as heck made the picture seem sharper to my eyes. This is my second projector and the first where panel alignment was an option.
> 
> Has everyone done a panel alignment or am I the only idiot who waited over 1.5 years with the 5040 to do a panel alignment? I admit to admit I did not think it was all that important to the picture, but it is.


I just done last night, after one year of usage projector ☺
I've same impression. Not big improvement, but colours looking little better.


----------



## ayrton

db999md said:


> Just an FYI - the samsung 8500 UHD blu-ray player does output netflix in HDR properly to the Epson 5040ub.
> Dennis


My 8500 will do this, although if it is 4K 60 it won't convert to 24/30 and I have problems. (4K UHD HDR 60)


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

JewDaddy said:


> Does anyone think there could be a problem with me running my Linker into the projector’s USB for power? I ask because if running a shorter cable between my Linker and Projector fixes my PC issue, I don’t want to have to run another power cord all the way over to where my projector is mounted on a shelf. I was hoping I could just plug the usb from the Linker into the projector and have it get power that way. So anytime the projector is on, the Linker will have power. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'd be cautious in doing this. I had my linker and integral powered via my Xbox Ones USB. The devices need at least 2amp port to work. While the set up worked fine most of the time, sometimes it would cut out and reset or require me to unplug it and plug it back in. I used the included 2amp adapters and haven't had any more issues.


----------



## db999md

Nathan Cardinale said:


> I'd be cautious in doing this. I had my linker and integral powered via my Xbox Ones USB. The devices need at least 2amp port to work. While the set up worked fine most of the time, sometimes it would cut out and reset or require me to unplug it and plug it back in. I used the included 2amp adapters and haven't had any more issues.


I bet if you looked you could find a way of plugging the USB power adapter in near your projector. Maybe someone makes an AC cord to 2 Outlets adaptor thing or something

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

db999md said:


> I bet if you looked you could find a way of plugging the USB power adapter in near your projector. Maybe someone makes an AC cord to 2 Outlets adaptor thing or something
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


He doesn’t want to run another power cord though


----------



## db999md

Nathan Cardinale said:


> He doesn’t want to run another power cord though


Get this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DT4W6J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_mkqzAbN3GATTH

And then get something like an Anker USB adaptor that fits into the two prong female part

So you are stealing the power from the projectors AC cable got it?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## viperlogic

Anyone done Colour Uniformity on theirs? Any tips? Just spent nearly 3 hours to dial it in and its a painful process. Can certainly see the advantage of it, esp in the darker scenes but as I said, painful, unless theres an easier process using that with offset and gain. Is this something that is done as standard with a "professional calibration"?


----------



## jwhn

viperlogic said:


> Anyone done Colour Uniformity on theirs? Any tips? Just spent nearly 3 hours to dial it in and its a painful process. Can certainly see the advantage of it, esp in the darker scenes but as I said, painful, unless theres an easier process using that with offset and gain. Is this something that is done as standard with a "professional calibration"?


Just to clarify. Color uniformity is designed to correct inconsistencies across the panel. For example, I have a slight red tint on the left and a green one on the right. This feature is not at all designed to correct the overall gray scale. I am just using it for that purpose because it has an ALL option. So the way I am using it is completely non-standard. But it works.


----------



## BlueTip

You're not alone!

I also purchased a 5040ub around October of 2017 and today I went to power it up for the first time in about one week. Hit the power button on the remote and nothing happened. I then hit the power button on the projector and the blue power light went off. At this point the projector has no lights and isn't responding to any attempts to power on, even after leaving unplugged for 30 minutes and plugging back in. I'll be calling Epson Support in the morning.



drenet said:


> Hello all, hoping this issue has come up before but I was not able to find any mention of it in this thread.
> 
> I purchased the 5040ube in October and have been using it twice a week or so with no issues. Today while watching the game, the projector turned off with no warning and will not turn back on. There are no status lights, the projector was not hot (it had only been on for about 45 minutes), unplugging and plugging back in does not work. I have verified that there is power both to the outlet and through the power cable, but its as if the projector does not recognize it; the lens cover did not even close when it initially shut off. I also confirmed that the air filter was not clogged/dirty and that the lamp is seated correctly.
> 
> I'm hoping somebody on this forum knows of a magical fix, otherwise its a restless night of sleep about my $3000 paperweight and a call to Epson support in the morning... Please?


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

jwhn said:


> Just to clarify. Color uniformity is designed to correct inconsistencies across the panel. For example, I have a slight red tint on the left and a green one on the right. This feature is not at all designed to correct the overall gray scale. I am just using it for that purpose because it has an ALL option. So the way I am using it is completely non-standard. But it works.


They have a panel alignment tool in the settings to fix that. Just manipulate the four corners, the inner ones are software changes that can distort the image.


----------



## jwhn

Nathan Cardinale said:


> They have a panel alignment tool in the settings to fix that. Just manipulate the four corners, the inner ones are software changes that can distort the image.


To fix what?


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

Nexgen76 said:


> Okay maybe i missed something but for some reason after i add Oledurt HDR setting, When i cut my projector off the setting not saving what I'm i doing wrong ?


Did you save the settings to a memory?


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

Dominic Chan said:


> To answer your question directly:
> No, with a 16:9 screen you would just keep the lens zoom in one position and “live with” the top and bottom black bars, i.e., you won’t benefit much from the powered zoom.


True for zoom.
But for lens position, with 2.4 AR on a 16:9 screen, you can (I do) use a preset to move the image to the top of the screen. That gives me a full black border on 3 sides of the image, and then one could add a single mask across the bottom of image. I haven't done the latter, but I may..............


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

Mr HarperVision, what do you think about about doing a settings optimization utilizing one of the 5040 HDR settings, with 1.11 firmware? It would be nice to utilize the HDR auto-switching.
Thanks!


----------



## birdztudio

hi guys, sorry if this been asked i already tried to use the "search this thread" but couldn't find, do we have some guideline for 3D calibration? thank you


----------



## viperlogic

Nathan Cardinale said:


> They have a panel alignment tool in the settings to fix that. Just manipulate the four corners, the inner ones are software changes that can distort the image.


Problem with the Epson is that there is only two point adjustment for grayscale. Because of this limitation, jwhn used colour uniformity to "correct" the lower end skews. Below is my current grayscale and while the delta is sub 1, in dark scenes there is a visible blueish/greenish tint


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

jwhn said:


> To fix what?


You said your screen shows different colors slightly on one side than the other. Could be a panel alignment issue if you haven't checked it.



viperlogic said:


> Problem with the Epson is that there is only two point adjustment for grayscale. Because of this limitation, jwhn used colour uniformity to "correct" the lower end skews. Below is my current grayscale and while the delta is sub 1, in dark scenes there is a visible blueish/greenish tint


Gotcha. Sounds like a color temperature issue. Even with my good grayscale, couldn't get rid of drop in color temperature at lower brightnesses that would introduce that blue tint.

Heres my old calibration stuff:


----------



## Mikesp1

ComradeBrehznev said:


> Mr HarperVision, what do you think about about doing a settings optimization utilizing one of the 5040 HDR settings, with 1.11 firmware? It would be nice to utilize the HDR auto-switching.
> Thanks!


A few months back some people posted their calibration settings. Someone even took the time and effort to bundle all this information in a downloadable file.

Those settings were extremely valuable for users without the skills nor equipment to do calibrations themselves.

I would love to see some new calibration settings with current 1.11 firmware.


----------



## viperlogic

Mikesp1 said:


> A few months back some people posted their calibration settings. Someone even took the time and effort to bundle all this information in a downloadable file.
> 
> Those settings were extremely valuable for users without the skills nor equipment to do calibrations themselves.
> 
> I would love to see some new calibration settings with current 1.11 firmware.


A few of use are working on HDR calibrations here using HDR 2 which was HDR1 in pre 1.11 firmware. We are not using the new HDR 1 preset that came with 1.11 as we can't manipulate the tone mapping curve as easily as HDR 2.

As said many times before, one persons settings calibrated for their specific env will not look the same on someones elses. For example, myself and jwhn have used exact same method to get same tone mapping curve but we have very different settings to get that.


----------



## Jameshtx

Where can I find information about what changes the 1.11 firmware update has?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aaranddeeman

Mikesp1 said:


> Those settings were extremely valuable for users without the skills nor equipment to do calibrations themselves.


It does not need much of the equipment. Just the colorimeter. Total investment < $200. And laptop (that almost everyone has).
What you need is time, patience and persuasion.
No other skill required.


----------



## migsta

*Another power supply failure on 6040ub - 2 now!!!*



sddp said:


> ABSOLUTELY #1 !!!
> 
> A refurb unit costs about %20+ less. So if you have a refurb this early in the game then you should have paid %20 less
> 
> They are way cheaper now then when I bought mine in Nov 2016. So you should be able to get a great deal anywhere if you hunt. Just make sure it is %100 authorized dealer.
> 
> Less than a month paying full price of a new unit only to have a refurb? I don't think so!
> Maybe for a $89 product, but not when you're talking about thousands of $


I just had my 2nd 6040ub fail because of a power supply issue. The first one went back in late October of 2017 and now just today the 2nd unit does not power up. Called it in already and will request a new one tomorrow. Supposedly, they sent me a new one on the 2nd replacemet even though there is no way of telling if it was actually new since it doesn’t come with all of the accessories like a new one does. This is pretty disappointing considering the price of this product. We’ll see if they will send me a new one again. Unbelievable quality control from Epson and they don’t care about giving us new units even though it’s on them that these units are failing.


----------



## WynsWrld98

migsta said:


> I just had my 2nd 6040ub fail because of a power supply issue. The first one went back in late October of 2017 and now just today the 2nd unit does not power up. Called it in already and will request a new one tomorrow. Supposedly, they sent me a new one on the 2nd replacemet even though there is no way of telling if it was actually new since it doesn’t come with all of the accessories like a new one does. This is pretty disappointing considering the price of this product. We’ll see if they will send me a new one again. Unbelievable quality control from Epson and they don’t care about giving us new units even though it’s on them that these units are failing.


You should have the option to send yours back for repair vs. replacement if you have something else to watch in the mean time. I can't imagine them replacing a power supply would take long. And it's Russian Roulette what you get back on a swap.


----------



## OGZimba

I think I'm ordering my 5040ub in about 2 weeks. I'm so stoked!


----------



## OGZimba

terminal33 said:


> Ok I did some comparisons with the 1080p blu ray and 4K blu ray of The Revenant. My overall impression is that the e-shift of the standard blu ray is outstanding. I almost prefer the 1080p disc instead of the 4K since it has a brighter picture. While I do see a bit more detail and clarity in the 4K image, I'm not sure if it's worth it enough to keep the Philips player. I'm leaning towards returning it and waiting for the Oppo. In the meantime I would just keep e-shifting standard blu rays and get the new Roku box coming out this week for 4K streaming. Anyway, here are some screen shot comparisons. (I don't think I picked the best scenes necessarily, but I haven't seen the movie yet. I've just been doing scene demos.) Also, is The Revenant a darker looking movie to begin with? I'm waiting for my rentals of Lucy and The Shallows in 4K to come in. I've read about how incredible those look and I'm assuming those would be brighter? Settings are:
> 
> -bright cinema
> -eco lamp
> -image enhancement 5
> -gamma level at - 1
> -minimal lighting
> -106" Silver Ticket 1.1 gain screen
> -pics taken with Galaxy S7
> 
> 1080p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I then decided to change the gamma from - 1 to 1 to help brighten the 4K image.
> 
> Gamma the at - 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma at 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Then just for fun I did the same with the 1080p images.
> 
> Gamma at - 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma at 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I'm not sure if you can tell or not, but the 1080p discs look amazing... so amazing that I'm really considering waiting for the Oppo 4K player before I start purchasing 4K discs. On a side note: Does anyone else find it easier to be impressed with images with aspect ratios that fill up the whole screen? It's harder for me to appreciate and be wowed by images with the letterbox format. This may be a reason why The Revenant in 4K doesn't impressive me as much as it should.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


Your pictures make the 1080p image look better!


----------



## migsta

*Thanks*



WynsWrld98 said:


> You should have the option to send yours back for repair vs. replacement if you have something else to watch in the mean time. I can't imagine them replacing a power supply would take long. And it's Russian Roulette what you get back on a swap.


Thanks for the heads up. Going to try and ask for another new one first. It's crazy that Epson wouldn't recognize failures in these units, with respect to the power supply, when there have been instances of this happening with this projector/model. In general, going back to my 6010, I find Epson projectors to be almost scary when they fire up. I had a 6010 that I also had to return because it just went into a crazy powering up sequence where it would just make loud fan noise and the shutter would not open - maybe a faulty power supply there to? Anyways, I had a refurb returned and it was fine until I got the 6040UB. Maybe it's projectors in general but these Epson's have some of the worst power up sequence that I've ever seen. There are some instances where, upon power up, it will go into a high fan spin/noise before it settles down and displays the picture. Is there any reason for this on power up as most times it just powers up without this. 

We'll see how it goes today when there Advance Support team opens up @ 11am EST. Their swap out program is fast with the refurbs and new units because they anticipate failures on these units I guess?


----------



## Aardawg

I know the issue as far as PS4 Pro playing 4k games in 4k with HDR on the Epson 5040 has been addressed in this forum already. But I have noticed that some games, for whatever reason, play in 4k with HDR on the PS4 Pro. Farming Simulator 17, and I believe Lego Marvel Superheroes 2 both display as 3840x2160 and 4k on the Info Panel on my Epson. 

I've also noticed that the info panel seems to show 3840x2160 and HDR 8 bit with the Xbox One S playing every game I've tried so far. 

How can this be? I've been under the impression I needed to buy an HD Fury Linker for this to happen?

Why do some games display in 4k with HDR and some only show either 1080p with HDR or 4K with SDR (when I turn off HDR in Visual Settings all games show 3840 x 2160 but with SDR)

Can anyone explain this to me?


----------



## WynsWrld98

migsta said:


> Thanks for the heads up. Going to try and ask for another new one first. It's crazy that Epson wouldn't recognize failures in these units, with respect to the power supply, when there have been instances of this happening with this projector/model. In general, going back to my 6010, I find Epson projectors to be almost scary when they fire up. I had a 6010 that I also had to return because it just went into a crazy powering up sequence where it would just make loud fan noise and the shutter would not open - maybe a faulty power supply there to? Anyways, I had a refurb returned and it was fine until I got the 6040UB. Maybe it's projectors in general but these Epson's have some of the worst power up sequence that I've ever seen. There are some instances where, upon power up, it will go into a high fan spin/noise before it settles down and displays the picture. Is there any reason for this on power up as most times it just powers up without this.
> 
> We'll see how it goes today when there Advance Support team opens up @ 11am EST. Their swap out program is fast with the refurbs and new units because they anticipate failures on these units I guess?


My 5040 just powered up last night exactly as you described, I didn't think a pic was going to be displayed took a VERY long time then it finally did. You'd think the power up sequence would be consistent.


----------



## ayrton

*Power Up UBe Wireless*

When mine has the high fan on start up, it takes a long time for picture..

Most of the time when fan doesn't rev. picture comes pretty quick.. (Before my Harmony gets finished with startup}

Overall, not a big deal and generally, pretty smooth startup..


----------



## old corps

I have about 125 hours on my 5040 and haven't experienced the "high fan on start up"--yet. These power supply failures that keep showing up really concern me. I've got until the 29th to return mine for a full refund...........

Ed


Uhhh, just edited to HAVEN'T. 136 hours.


----------



## old corps

Jameshtx said:


> Where can I find information about what changes the 1.11 firmware update has?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here you go........

https://www.projectorreviews.com/th...040-pc6040ub-projectors-end-user-hdr-upgrade/

Yer welcome!

Ed


----------



## migsta

old corps said:


> I have about 125 hours on my 5040 and have experienced the "high fan on start up"--yet. These power supply failures that keep showing up really concern me. I've got until the 29th to return mine for a full refund...........
> 
> Ed


Don't know how wide spread this power supply issue is but there are two of us (myself included) now on our 3rd projector. Today, when I spoke with Epson Advanced Support, they acknowledged the issue and it was clear to me that they are aware of it. The guy on the phone went so far as to say that he believes all of the "bad inventory" should now be out of circulation. So, for a second replacement, they will be sending me a new one again. The 1st replacement was also a new one. Apparently, the difference between a new one and a refurbished one (from a visual perspective at least) is that the box says "refurbished" if it's refurbished and it won't say that if it's new. Either way, it's alarming that this is happening. Moreover, I'm going to ask to have my warranty period start the day I receive the projector again which is hopefully tomorrow. Why should we be held accountable for poorly manufactured products from Epson in this case. They should immediately restart your warranty period. I'm also following up with my dealer to see if I can get a brand new (fully packaged with all of the contents) projector also. Then, if that's possible, I'll decide which one to keep but it's like someone said earlier "Russian Roulette" with these things.

There should be an Epson rep on here addressing this issue. Good luck to everyone else who experiences this issue or better yet good luck in not experiencing this issue altogether.


----------



## aaranddeeman

migsta said:


> Moreover, I'm going to ask to have my warranty period start the day I receive the projector again which is hopefully tomorrow. Why should we be held accountable for poorly manufactured products from Epson in this case. They should immediately restart your warranty period.


This is a strange demand.
You got those replacements because you had warranty.
If you reset the warranty after every replacement, then it's infinite warranty..


----------



## migsta

aaranddeeman said:


> This is a strange demand.
> You got those replacements because you had warranty.
> If you reset the warranty after every replacement, then it's infinite warranty..


You wouldn’t be saying that if this was happening to you. It’s a perfectly valid request considering the circumstances. If it’s a 1 year warranty, as an example, and I have 1 month left on the warranty then I have to hope and pray that I don’t get another dud that dies after the 1 year warranty. How’s that fair to me then if Epson just says we’re sorry but it’s out of warranty-you must have received one of our last defective units but there’s nothing we can do now. Come on man - we’re the little people here.


----------



## LumensLover

old corps said:


> I have about 125 hours on my 5040 and have experienced the "high fan on start up"--yet. These power supply failures that keep showing up really concern me. I've got until the 29th to return mine for a full refund...........
> 
> Ed


I would get out while you can before Epson sends you into refurb hell.


----------



## old corps

LumensLover said:


> I would get out while you can before Epson sends you into refurb hell.



I dunno, out of 12,828 posts here how many failures to start up have been reported? Of course if it happens to you (ME!) that doesn't matter. ESPECIALLY for those poor souls with 2 or 3 bad units!


Ed


----------



## Azekecse

Azekecse said:


> Thanks again Juiced, I will need to check again this weekend and get back to you.
> 
> On a secondary note, does anyone think it's better to run the Linker at the XB1X or at the projector? Any thoughts including pros and cons, please.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke





Juiced46 said:


> What kind of issues are you having?


Ok, I finally found the time to re-install the HDFury Linker between the AVR and Projector. I figured out the error of my ways,_ I had inadvertently checked Enable Custom HDR (Custom HDR Injection) under the HDR/AVI tab _:frown:. I now have an HDR signal for my peripheral devices. Hopefully this will help someone down the road. Thanks Juiced for your offering of assistance.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Shane M

Here is my final update on the color banding in 4K/HDR using the ATV 4K. I found that the culprit was the optical audio extractor in-line with my HDMI. The device was supposed to successfully pass 4K/60/4:4:4, but it always added banding. I replaced that unit with a different one, and the banding is gone. I was getting stuttering at 4K/30/4:2:2, but dropping down to 4K/24/4:2:2 fixed it. So for anyone experiencing banding, I'd check your cables and anything between your source at the 5040. I know this is basic HT101, but it often bears repeating.

Now I'm off to fight another battle on why my NAS isn't able to serve high bit-rate files without choking. Until then guys.


----------



## Jameshtx

old corps said:


> Here you go........
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/th...040-pc6040ub-projectors-end-user-hdr-upgrade/
> 
> Yer welcome!
> 
> Ed


Thanks a bunch!


----------



## brianlvi3

Hey guys, 

I have the Epson 5040 with an Oppo 203. I have a strange problem that does not occur often. While watching a regular blu ray movie it will shift from 16:9 to 2.35.1. Back and forth sometimes alot. Other times it will go through almost the entire move at 16:9 and then shift to 2.35:1 for the last 20 mins. It did this most recently with Dunkirk.

Not sure what is happening but would like to figure it out.

Thanks again!!


----------



## Mr.G

brianlvi3 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I have the Epson 5040 with an Oppo 203. I have a strange problem that does not occur often. While watching a regular blu ray movie it will shift from 16:9 to 2.35.1. Back and forth sometimes alot. Other times it will go through almost the entire move at 16:9 and then shift to 2.35:1 for the last 20 mins. It did this most recently with Dunkirk.
> 
> Not sure what is happening but would like to figure it out.
> 
> Thanks again!!


For _Dunkirk_ it's normal.



> The only problem with Dunkirk’s images is shifting aspect ratios. For while the scenes shot on 70mm appear in a screen-filling 1.78:1 ratio, the 65mm sections are presented in what looks like a 2.20:1 aspect ratio. As a result, the film sometimes suddenly cuts from a full, screen-filling image to one with black bars above and below it. This can be quite jarring on occasion - especially where the cut to a shot with black bars on it comes right out of a really bright screen-filling 70mm aerial combat shot.


https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnar...w-a-picture-quality-masterclass/#394bbd3a3b8e


----------



## Natrix1973

brianlvi3 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I have the Epson 5040 with an Oppo 203. I have a strange problem that does not occur often. While watching a regular blu ray movie it will shift from 16:9 to 2.35.1. Back and forth sometimes alot. Other times it will go through almost the entire move at 16:9 and then shift to 2.35:1 for the last 20 mins. It did this most recently with Dunkirk.
> 
> Not sure what is happening but would like to figure it out.
> 
> Thanks again!!


You didn't mention all the titles but you are watching movies that have variable aspect ratios which is normal. Dunkirk and several other movies have scenes filmed with IMAX cameras which expand the screen and sometimes the aspect ratio can switch back and forth a lot like Transformers The Last Knight.

Here is a thread with the movies released with the variable aspect ratios on the disks. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/117-2...ist-variable-aspect-ratio-movies-blu-ray.html


----------



## Mr.G

LumensLover said:


> I would get out while you can before Epson sends you into refurb hell.


Isn't this Epson threadcrap crusade getting a little old?

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-f...ost-sites-have-200-discount.html#post55543666


----------



## Jameshtx

brianlvi3 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Epson 5040 with an Oppo 203. I have a strange problem that does not occur often. While watching a regular blu ray movie it will shift from 16:9 to 2.35.1. Back and forth sometimes alot. Other times it will go through almost the entire move at 16:9 and then shift to 2.35:1 for the last 20 mins. It did this most recently with Dunkirk.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what is happening but would like to figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again!!




What does it do when it changes? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## old corps

Jameshtx said:


> What does it do when it changes?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 
As described, the aspect ratio changes from 2:35 to 16:9. If you're viewing on a 16:9 screen 2:35 will have the black bars above & below the picture in 2:35 then the aspect ratio will change to 16:9 and the picture will fill the entire screen.
Hope this helps. Yer welcome....again!

Ed


Only happens on a few films that were made this way. Dunkirk is one of them.


----------



## nith

How widespread is the power issue with Epson 5040UB/6040UB? I'm new to front projector and did some quite of research. Epson 5040ub is my top choice for overall value (picture quality, features, and cost). The recent discount makes it more appealing. But then, this power issue thing makes me step back and rethink. Should I take my chance?


----------



## JewDaddy

Well this sucks. I tried the recommendation from HDfury with my Linker and Projector with bad results. My issue is that when I use the Linker with my PC, it thinks the native resolution is 1080p and some games won’t even play at all no matter what resolution I select. My original setup was 50ft HDMI from Projector to Linker and then a 6ft HDMI from Linker to Receiver. All was good with my Panny 4K player, Xbox One X and PS4 Pro. 4K HDR no problems. PC was only registering 1080p. 

I tried the recommendation from HDfury which was to have a shorter run between my projector and Linker. So I used a 6ft and even tried a 4ft HDMI from the Projector to the Linker and then used the 50ft from the Linker to my Receiver. When I did it this way, I got no picture at all. I could hear the sound on my Xbox but no picture. Tried with my Panny Blu Ray Player and Xbox One X. No picture. This is very frustrating.......


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## beefjazz

guys can anyone tell me what signal should i feed my pj for better PQ? 

1080p with 4K enchancement on, FI enabled or 2160p with 4K enchacement off and FI disabled?

when using 2160p signal, color depth is set to 8 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020, HDR,on any framerate
when using 1080p signal, color depth is set to 12 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020, HDR on any framerate

does the hdfury linker have any improvements on pj?


btw, i did some tests myself and im almost convinced that using 1080p signal on pj with upscaling, the image is superior to than just send native 4k signal to pj, but i need to confirm this with others.

thanks


----------



## brianlvi3

Mr.G said:


> For _Dunkirk_ it's normal.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnar...w-a-picture-quality-masterclass/#394bbd3a3b8e


Thanks for all the great info. Very annoying. Does this happen in the theater? I wish I could remember which movies it has happened on so I could cross check the list.


----------



## brianlvi3

beefjazz said:


> guys can anyone tell me what signal should i feed my pj for better PQ?
> 
> 1080p with 4K enchancement on, FI enabled or 2160p with 4K enchacement off and FI disabled?
> 
> when using 2160p signal, color depth is set to 8 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020, HDR,on any framerate
> when using 1080p signal, color depth is set to 12 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020, HDR on any framerate
> 
> does the hdfury linker have any improvements on pj?
> 
> 
> btw, i did some tests myself and im almost convinced that using 1080p signal on pj with upscaling, the image is superior to than just send native 4k signal to pj, but i need to confirm this with others.
> 
> thanks


I kind of agree but I have not downloaded the new firmware yet.


----------



## JewDaddy

beefjazz said:


> guys can anyone tell me what signal should i feed my pj for better PQ?
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p with 4K enchancement on, FI enabled or 2160p with 4K enchacement off and FI disabled?
> 
> 
> 
> when using 2160p signal, color depth is set to 8 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020, HDR,on any framerate
> 
> when using 1080p signal, color depth is set to 12 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020, HDR on any framerate
> 
> 
> 
> does the hdfury linker have any improvements on pj?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, i did some tests myself and im almost convinced that using 1080p signal on pj with upscaling, the image is superior to than just send native 4k signal to pj, but i need to confirm this with others.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks




Interesting. Are we able to still have HDR even when a 4K blu-ray is being downscaled to 1080p? If that’s the case, I would more than likely watch in 1080p with 4k enhancement and FI on. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## beefjazz

JewDaddy said:


> Interesting. Are we able to still have HDR even when a 4K blu-ray is being downscaled to 1080p? If that’s the case, I would more than likely watch in 1080p with 4k enhancement and FI on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


yes you can use HDR even when the signal is 1080p. pj automatically detects HDR metadata and acts accordingly. i did some more tests last night and i can assure you that the PQ is far superior when using epson's upscaler. i noticed less artifacts, better colour reproduction, but sharpness seems to be the same in both scenarios.
I guess that's the whole point of this machine. never forget that this pj is still a 1080p, yes it accepts native 2160p signal but i think if you want to experience the full potential of this machine, is to stick with 1080p signal and leave the rest to be processed by its upscaler.

but i want to hear what you think as well.

i ordered the hdfury linker, but dont know if this will help in any way. if the image is better with 1080p signal, then i dont see the point of using the linker.

but have to make sure.


----------



## JewDaddy

beefjazz said:


> yes you can use HDR even when the signal is 1080p. pj automatically detects HDR metadata and acts accordingly. i did some more tests last night and i can assure you that the PQ is far superior when using epson's upscaler. i noticed less artifacts, better colour reproduction, but sharpness seems to be the same in both scenarios.
> 
> I guess that's the whole point of this machine. never forget that this pj is still a 1080p, yes it accepts native 2160p signal but i think if you want to experience the full potential of this machine, is to stick with 1080p signal and leave the rest to be processed by its upscaler.
> 
> 
> 
> but i want to hear what you think as well.
> 
> 
> 
> i ordered the hdfury linker, but dont know if this will help in any way. if the image is better with 1080p signal, then i dont see the point of using the linker.
> 
> 
> 
> but have to make sure.




Well that’s very exciting because I’m a huge fan of FI and I’ve been very disappointed to not be able to use FI when watching a 4K movie. I always thought that in order to get the most detail out of this projector, you have to watch something in native 4K and not use the 4K enhancement option. You mentioned you ordered the Linker but not sure if it would help in any way. What do you mean by the Linker helping with a 4K movie? I have a Linker and I use it to be able to get 4K HDR Gaming on my Pro and One X. Didn’t know this might be able to improve the picture with a 4K HDR movie. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## beefjazz

JewDaddy said:


> Well that’s very exciting because I’m a huge fan of FI and I’ve been very disappointed to not be able to use FI when watching a 4K movie. I always thought that in order to get the most detail out of this projector, you have to watch something in native 4K and not use the 4K enhancement option. You mentioned you ordered the Linker but not sure if it would help in any way. What do you mean by the Linker helping with a 4K movie? I have a Linker and I use it to be able to get 4K HDR Gaming on my Pro and One X. Didn’t know this might be able to improve the picture with a 4K HDR movie.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


well i ordered the linker for using it with PS4 pro and as for movies, as of now when using native 4k signal, i get only 8 bit 4:4:4 BT2020 HDR, and with the linker, i should be able to scale it to10 bit 4:2:0 HDR color depth, which is the maximum that this machine can take. But this is when the signal is native 4k, if i stick to 1080p input signal because of better PQ, then theres no need of the linker because in 1080p signal i can get 12 bit BT2020 and HDR just fine.

when you play 4k movies and have the signal on 2160p, what color depth info u get? as i said, mine is 8 bit 4:4:4 BT2020 HDR


----------



## JewDaddy

beefjazz said:


> well i ordered the linker for using it with PS4 pro and as for movies, as of now when using native 4k signal, i get only 8 bit 4:4:4 BT2020 HDR, and with the linker, i should be able to scale it to10 bit 4:2:0 HDR color depth, which is the maximum that this machine can take. But this is when the signal is native 4k, if i stick to 1080p input signal because of better PQ, then theres no need of the linker because in 1080p signal i can get 12 bit BT2020 and HDR just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> when you play 4k movies and have the signal on 2160p, what color depth info u get? as i said, mine is 8 bit 4:4:4 BT2020 HDR




I’ll check shortly and let you know what color depth I get with a native 4K blu ray and the Linker hooked up. 

Question about watching a 4K movie in 1080p with 4K enhancement. So, when playing a native 4K UHD movie in 1080p, are you still getting the benefits of the 4K disc or is it like watching the standard 1080p movie with HDR? What I mean by that is if I were to watch, let’s say Guardians of The Galaxy 2, 4K UHD movie downscaled to 1080p with 4K enhancement, would it be the same as watching the standard 1080p blu Ray using the 4K enhancement? All HDR aside, I’m just curious if you lose the upgrade from standard 1080p blu-ray to 4K UHD because you’re downscaling it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Looks like I’m getting 12 bit with native 4K and HDR on my Panny 4K Player










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## beefjazz

JewDaddy said:


> I’ll check shortly and let you know what color depth I get with a native 4K blu ray and the Linker hooked up.
> 
> Question about watching a 4K movie in 1080p with 4K enhancement. So, when playing a native 4K UHD movie in 1080p, are you still getting the benefits of the 4K disc or is it like watching the standard 1080p movie with HDR? What I mean by that is if I were to watch, let’s say Guardians of The Galaxy 2, 4K UHD movie downscaled to 1080p with 4K enhancement, would it be the same as watching the standard 1080p blu Ray using the 4K enhancement? All HDR aside, I’m just curious if you lose the upgrade from standard 1080p blu-ray to 4K UHD because you’re downscaling it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


in theory yes, that would be as if watching the 1080p disc since the resolution is downscaled, BUT the bitrate does not change which will give you better PQ, since the UHD's bitrate is way higher than BDs, and that means more data to be processed. 

Try testing it for yourself. Use an image which has a uniform picture, for example i used Blue Planet II UHD in frames where there is a lot of openness, i.e. blue skies or underwater with light passing through etc. and what i noticed is that when the signal is 4K native, i get this kind of pixelated circles on areas when the colour/brightness slightly changes, where in 1080p signal this is far less noticeable.

I believe that when 4k signal is fed to epson, the image is less processed, its pixel shifting is not working as it was designed to, hence the 4k enchancement option set to disabled. 

i might be wrong, but thats the reason i came here to discuss.


----------



## beefjazz

JewDaddy said:


> Looks like I’m getting 12 bit with native 4K and HDR on my Panny 4K Player
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


well, thats the reason im getting the linker, for some reason when signal is 4K, color depth is automatically set to 8 bit 4:4:4. Do you use linker for all inputs or only for consoles?


----------



## JewDaddy

beefjazz said:


> in theory yes, that would be as if watching the 1080p disc since the resolution is downscaled, BUT the bitrate does not change which will give you better PQ, since the UHD's bitrate is way higher than BDs, and that means more data to be processed.
> 
> 
> 
> Try testing it for yourself. Use an image which has a uniform picture, for example i used Blue Planet II UHD in frames where there is a lot of openness, i.e. blue skies or underwater with light passing through etc. and what i noticed is that when the signal is 4K native, i get this kind of pixelated circles on areas when the colour/brightness slightly changes, where in 1080p signal this is far less noticeable.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that when 4k signal is fed to epson, the image is less processed, its pixel shifting is not working as it was designed to, hence the 4k enchancement option set to disabled.
> 
> 
> 
> i might be wrong, but thats the reason i came here to discuss.




I’ll do that and let you know my findings. One thing though, I set my 4K player to output at 1080p instead of 4K and I’m not getting HDR. Here’s what my info screen shows. 










Am I doing something wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## beefjazz

JewDaddy said:


> I’ll do that and let you know my findings. One thing though, I set my 4K player to output at 1080p instead of 4K and I’m not getting HDR. Here’s what my info screen shows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am I doing something wrong?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i think thats due to your player. By setting it to 1080p, it automatically discards the HDR metadata. I will post some photos later this evening.
in your case then, it would be advisable to stick to 4k input signal then since u get the HDR and BT.2020.

but nevertheless, do try testing the PQ between 1080p and 2160p signals.


----------



## JewDaddy

beefjazz said:


> i think thats due to your player. By setting it to 1080p, it automatically discards the HDR metadata. I will post some photos later this evening.
> 
> in your case then, it would be advisable to stick to 4k input signal then since u get the HDR and BT.2020.
> 
> 
> 
> but nevertheless, do try testing the PQ between 1080p and 2160p signals.




That sucks. I was really hoping to get FI and HDR. Which player do you have?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## viperlogic

Two questions...
1) what the difference between normal iris and high speed iris?

2) I have 4K enhancement set to off, yet my UHD/BD player (Panny UB400) detects the projector is 4K compatible and sends a upscaled 4K signal when playing 1080p BD. Of course I can force the Panny UB400 to only output 1080p when playing BD's but means I have to change that setting then when want to play 2160p UHD's. Anything that can be done from the Epson side to resolve this?


----------



## Sanjay

viperlogic said:


> Two questions...
> 2) I have 4K enhancement set to off, yet my UHD/BD player (Panny UB400) detects the projector is 4K compatible and sends a upscaled 4K signal when playing 1080p BD. Of course I can force the Panny UB400 to only output 1080p when playing BD's but means I have to change that setting then when want to play 2160p UHD's. Anything that can be done from the Epson side to resolve this?


In the UB400 '*video output setting*', under '*output resolution*', select '*source direct*'. This should resolve your issue. 

PS: This is of course presuming the 'Panasonic UB400' has such a setting option. The Oppo UDP-203 does.


----------



## beefjazz

viperlogic said:


> Two questions...
> 1) what the difference between normal iris and high speed iris?
> 
> 2) I have 4K enhancement set to off, yet my UHD/BD player (Panny UB400) detects the projector is 4K compatible and sends a upscaled 4K signal when playing 1080p BD. Of course I can force the Panny UB400 to only output 1080p when playing BD's but means I have to change that setting then when want to play 2160p UHD's. Anything that can be done from the Epson side to resolve this?


1) normal iris vs high iris has do to with the response time on how fast this mechanism works. normal iris is slower, and more noticeable to viewer when picture changes fast from light to dark or vise versa; you can see that the iris takes a bit time to adjust. In high iris mode this is less noticeable, iris works faster and therefore the transition from light to dark or vise versa is faster. 
I think the only reason you have to choose between those,is because iris use to make some noise when working and some people dont like having to listen to the iris mechanism. one other reason might be because normal iris is more power efficient. I always use it on High Iris mode.


2) No. Epson only receives the signal you sent from your device. you cannot set on pj resolution or color space, framerate and so on. These settings are configured only by output device (ie. players, consoles, AVRs etc).

hope that helps.


----------



## viperlogic

Sanjay said:


> In the UB400 '*video output setting*', under '*output resolution*', select '*source direct*'. This should resolve your issue.
> 
> PS: This is of course presuming the 'Panasonic UB400' has such a setting option. The Oppo UDP-203 does.


Unfortunately no such setting, or that I havn't found it. Just another reason to get the Oppo! Always wanted one but its alot of money


----------



## MarcSparks

JewDaddy said:


> I’ll do that and let you know my findings. One thing though, I set my 4K player to output at 1080p instead of 4K and I’m not getting HDR. Here’s what my info screen shows.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am I doing something wrong?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Funny thing to me is, your 1080p SDR image there in the background looks slightly better than your 2160p HDR image. Can't tell any discernible sharpness difference, but the color and shadow detail looks better on the 1080p SDR, IMO.


----------



## JewDaddy

MarcSparks said:


> Funny thing to me is, your 1080p SDR image there in the background looks slightly better than your 2160p HDR image. Can't tell any discernible sharpness difference, but the color and shadow detail looks better on the 1080p SDR, IMO.




Ha! I’m actually glad you said that because that’s how I felt when I was going back and forth between the two last night. Went from 4K HDR to 1080P 4K enhancement. I use digital cinema for both. I would say about 80% of the time, 1080p looked either better or identical to the 4K HDR image and only briefly did the 4K image look better. 

Here’s a better comparison shot. Let me know what you think. 

4K HDR









1080p 4K enhancement










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## exm

JewDaddy said:


> Ha! I’m actually glad you said that because that’s how I felt when I was going back and forth between the two last night. Went from 4K HDR to 1080P 4K enhancement. I use digital cinema for both. I would say about 80% of the time, 1080p looked either better or identical to the 4K HDR image and only briefly did the 4K image look better.
> 
> Here’s a better comparison shot. Let me know what you think.
> 
> 4K HDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p 4K enhancement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


^^^ Very similar, but I actually slightly prefer the 1080p


----------



## Mr.G

brianlvi3 said:


> Thanks for all the great info. Very annoying. Does this happen in the theater? I wish I could remember which movies it has happened on so I could cross check the list.


I wanted to assure you that it wasn't a projector issue...but Christopher Nolan has done this in other movies like _The Dark Knight_ and _The Dark Knight Rises_. Also occurs in _Tron: Legacy_. Google 'changing aspect ratios in movies' for more information.


----------



## dholmes54

I thought the Fury linker was for gamers not for improvement in pq with movies


----------



## roland6465

Well, Reburb#2 is in the process of going back to Indiana. I have a big blue blob on the right side of the screen. I noticed it the week I installed it, but told myself I could live with it, as it was only visible when there was no signal. Well, last night it started showing through on dark scenes both on DirecTV and AppleTV. 

And get this...

They currently can't process the pre-ship exchange right now, because their system won't give them an amount to put on hold on a credit card! I'm waiting for a call, but you beet I'm calling back before they close for the day.


----------



## beefjazz

exm said:


> ^^^ Very similar, but I actually slightly prefer the 1080p


in case anyone's wondering, i can get BT.2020 HDR and FI in 1080p signal


----------



## JewDaddy

beefjazz said:


> in case anyone's wondering, i can get BT.2020 HDR and FI in 1080p signal




Lucky! I wish I was able to get that with my Panny 4K player 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

JewDaddy said:


> Ha! I’m actually glad you said that because that’s how I felt when I was going back and forth between the two last night. Went from 4K HDR to 1080P 4K enhancement. I use digital cinema for both. I would say about 80% of the time, 1080p looked either better or identical to the 4K HDR image and only briefly did the 4K image look better.
> 
> Here’s a better comparison shot. Let me know what you think.


HDR will look worse than SDR, if there's not enough lumens to produce at lease ~100 nits peak, and if you don't calibrate it (HDR is far more demanding than SDR in terms of calibration).

In any case, for this kind of pictures where there is no "specular highlights" or colours outside the Rec709 gamut, even properly calibrated HDR won't look any better than SDR.


----------



## migsta

fyi,

Epson came through as they sent me a brand new projector, double boxed with all the bells & whistles inside, yesterday to replace the 2nd defective unit that blew on me because of an apparent power supply issue. I hoisted it up yesterday and it's working so fingers crossed. This is my 3rd unit as the original one and the second replacement (which they claimed was new but didn't arrive packaged like a new one - just the projector single boxed) both died as they would not power up at all.

Anyways, crossing my fingers again with this one but at least it's new.


----------



## Juiced46

Azekecse said:


> Ok, I finally found the time to re-install the HDFury Linker between the AVR and Projector. I figured out the error of my ways,_ I had inadvertently checked Enable Custom HDR (Custom HDR Injection) under the HDR/AVI tab _:frown:. I now have an HDR signal for my peripheral devices. Hopefully this will help someone down the road. Thanks Juiced for your offering of assistance.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


No problem, glad I can help!



beefjazz said:


> guys can anyone tell me what signal should i feed my pj for better PQ?
> 
> 1080p with 4K enchancement on, FI enabled or 2160p with 4K enchacement off and FI disabled?
> 
> when using 2160p signal, color depth is set to 8 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020, HDR,on any framerate
> when using 1080p signal, color depth is set to 12 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020, HDR on any framerate
> 
> does the hdfury linker have any improvements on pj?
> 
> 
> btw, i did some tests myself and im almost convinced that using 1080p signal on pj with upscaling, the image is superior to than just send native 4k signal to pj, but i need to confirm this with others.
> 
> thanks





beefjazz said:


> well i ordered the linker for using it with PS4 pro and as for movies, as of now when using native 4k signal, i get only 8 bit 4:4:4 BT2020 HDR, and with the linker, i should be able to scale it to10 bit 4:2:0 HDR color depth, which is the maximum that this machine can take. But this is when the signal is native 4k, if i stick to 1080p input signal because of better PQ, then theres no need of the linker because in 1080p signal i can get 12 bit BT2020 and HDR just fine.
> 
> when you play 4k movies and have the signal on 2160p, what color depth info u get? as i said, mine is 8 bit 4:4:4 BT2020 HDR


Can you give us more details on what source you are using?

You cannot use 4Ke or FI when you are receiving a 4K signal. Its greyed out

The reason you are seeing strange artifacts with 4K is because you are most likely getting banding due to it being 8 bit. 

What source are you using to get 4K/8bit? 

I use an Xbox One X for UHD movies and Amazon UHD (with no linker) I get 4K/24hz 12bit HDR, this signal looks much better then 1080p/HDR when I compare it. I think your issue is because of the 8 bit that you feel it does not look as good.


----------



## Savatage316

So I'm ready to pull the trigger on an HD Fury Vertex... What can you guys tell me about setting this up?

Edit:my bad found the official thread, heading there


----------



## fritz11

Savatage316 said:


> So I'm ready to pull the trigger on an HD Fury Vertex... What can you guys tell me about setting this up?
> 
> Edit:my bad found the official thread, heading there


Hi!
I have the Vertex and it works for my very very good!I but the Vertex 
between my Av( Marantz 6011) and m Epson 9300.
So you can get and up and Downscale more or less every source you have:
For the First Output:
For my Xbox one X: Input:4K/Hdr 12Bit to Output:1080p/Hdr 12 Bit instead 4k/Hdr/8bit
For my Ps4 Pro: Input:4K/Hdr 12Bit to Output: 1080p/Hdr 12 Bit instead 4k/Hdr/8bit
For My Himedia Q10 Only Passthrough the 4K/24 Hz
For My PC i go to 4k/60 Hz
The 2. Output goes to a Lg 4k/hdr/tv
And you can set it separately and there i setup
for my sources Passthrough
Cu
Fritz


----------



## Savatage316

fritz11 said:


> Hi!
> I have the Vertex and it works for my very very good!I but the Vertex
> between my Av( Marantz 6011) and m Epson 9300.
> So you can get and up and Downscale more or less every source you have:
> For the First Output:
> For my Xbox one X: Input:4K/Hdr 12Bit to Output:1080p/Hdr 12 Bit instead 4k/Hdr/8bit
> For my Ps4 Pro: Input:4K/Hdr 12Bit to Output: 1080p/Hdr 12 Bit instead 4k/Hdr/8bit
> For My Himedia Q10 Only Passthrough the 4K/24 Hz
> For My PC i go to 4k/60 Hz
> The 2. Output goes to a Lg 4k/hdr/tv
> And you can set it separately and there i setup
> for my sources Passthrough
> Cu
> Fritz



So what all is exactly involved in getting it setup?

And this will basically give me full bandwidth hdr for my epson?


----------



## robc1976

Been using oledurts latest HDR bright cinema with "expanded" and got new stuwart cima nueve screen so decided to use my maniscolia test patterns and need confirmation that 1000 nit should barely be blinking on test pattern (white clipping). I thought he stated somewhere that he clipped whites at 1200 but could be wrong. Can't find the post where he posted that info, I pmed him but no luck.

His settings are by far the best.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## fritz11

Savatage316 said:


> So what all is exactly involved in getting it setup?
> 
> And this will basically give me full bandwidth hdr for my epson?


I think more you cant get out of the Epson!
The Vertex is More or less the same as the linker,
But you have 2 Outputs and you can set each separate for up and Downscale with different Bitrates.
Here is the Vertex Helpdesk.
You can ask your Special Question here in the live Support!

https://discordapp.com/channels/314050739771146241/326342752000278538

Cu


----------



## beefjazz

Juiced46 said:


> No problem, glad I can help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you give us more details on what source you are using?
> 
> You cannot use 4Ke or FI when you are receiving a 4K signal. Its greyed out
> 
> The reason you are seeing strange artifacts with 4K is because you are most likely getting banding due to it being 8 bit.
> 
> What source are you using to get 4K/8bit?
> 
> I use an Xbox One X for UHD movies and Amazon UHD (with no linker) I get 4K/24hz 12bit HDR, this signal looks much better then 1080p/HDR when I compare it. I think your issue is because of the 8 bit that you feel it does not look as good.


i tried several sources like consoles, PC and media players. whenever the source is 4k my pj automatically sets to 8-bit 4:4:4 color depth. i also tried several hdmi cables directly on pj. i also bypassed the hdmi signal from my Denon AVR and nothing, all the same.
im hoping that the linker will resolve this. i dont want to start thinking that my pj is defective yet.


----------



## Jameshtx

For someone like me thats new in the AV world, I have a real hard time understanding bc I dont know what it means when you guys talk about 4:4:4 or 8-bit or 60hz. Is that the most recommended setting for 4k movies? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## brianlvi3

Mr.G said:


> I wanted to assure you that it wasn't a projector issue...but Christopher Nolan has done this in other movies like _The Dark Knight_ and _The Dark Knight Rises_. Also occurs in _Tron: Legacy_. Google 'changing aspect ratios in movies' for more information.


Thanks again!!!


----------



## Mr.G

beefjazz said:


> i tried several sources like consoles, PC and media players. whenever the source is 4k my pj automatically sets to 8-bit 4:4:4 color depth. i also tried several hdmi cables directly on pj. i also bypassed the hdmi signal from my Denon AVR and nothing, all the same.
> im hoping that the linker will resolve this. i dont want to start thinking that my pj is defective yet.


Have you tried an actual 4K Blu-ray player like the Sony X800? Or are all your sources streaming?


----------



## Lithium

Jameshtx said:


> For someone like me thats new in the AV world, I have a real hard time understanding bc I dont know what it means when you guys talk about 4:4:4 or 8-bit or 60hz. Is that the most recommended setting for 4k movies?


To learn the basics, I suggest you digest this article that is linked in the OP: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/

The Epson can only handle signals under 10.2Gbps, thus the green numbers in the HDMI data rate chart are the only modes it can run. This bandwidth limit has the greatest impact on HDR content. Typically HDR (movies) are converted by your player and sent as 12-bit 4K @ 24/30Hz. But some people run (mostly for games) at 8-bit with help from a linker device so that they can achieve almost-HDR 4K @ 60Hz. The downside with this is that there is less color range and sometimes this is visible with banding artifacts.


----------



## Jameshtx

I am reading the article now. Thank you. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

beefjazz said:


> i tried several sources like consoles, PC and media players. whenever the source is 4k my pj automatically sets to 8-bit 4:4:4 color depth. i also tried several hdmi cables directly on pj. i also bypassed the hdmi signal from my Denon AVR and nothing, all the same.
> im hoping that the linker will resolve this. i dont want to start thinking that my pj is defective yet.


What consoles?

If you tried UHD Blu Rays or Amazon Prime on an Xbox One S or X. You should be seeing 4K/24hz HDR 12 bit. If you are not, I would look into a cabling issue.


----------



## beefjazz

Juiced46 said:


> What consoles?
> 
> If you tried UHD Blu Rays or Amazon Prime on an Xbox One S or X. You should be seeing 4K/24hz HDR 12 bit. If you are not, I would look into a cabling issue.


my linker just arrived today and fortunately all my problems were solved!
now im able to send a 4k/24Hz signal with 12 bit 4:2:2 HDR BT.2020

colour banding/artifacts have disappeared now.

only thing's left now is to test between 4k/60Hz 8 bit 4:4:4 and 2k/60Hz 12 bit 4:4:4 with epson upscaler and see which one produces less artifacts.

anyone tested this?


----------



## Jameshtx

Linker? Whats that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mikecoscia

mikecoscia said:


> I was playing Battlefront 2 this afternoon using HarperVision's settings and I noticed that the edges of dark objects on light backgrounds smear when panning quickly. They leave a trail in their wake. I played around with the settings a bit and the imagine enhancement presets increase the effect. The smear is barely noticeable on 1 and the worst on 5. I never noticed this issue before until today. It also seems to be most prevalent with HarperVision, not the default color modes. Has anyone else noticed this issue?


Bumping this up again. Can anyone confirm they have the same issue?


----------



## Mr.G

Jameshtx said:


> Linker? Whats that?


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2905929-hdfury-linker-owners-thread.html


----------



## Jameshtx

Should I need a linker if I'm watching 4k blu ray disc on my Oppo 203?


----------



## Sanjay

I just upgraded from a Panasonic AE-7000U to an Epson EH-TW8300 (5040UB). I am feeding it with an Oppo UDP-203 and an Egreat A-10 UHD media player. The signal is routed thru a Marantz AV8802A. Why does the picture become lifeless as soon as I switch the Oppo or the Egreat to source direct or 4K output? Why is it that when I play regular blu-rays or even UHD blu-rays set to output 1080p, I get a farrrrrrr superior picture? As great an improvement that I find the Epson over the Panasonic, I am HUGELY disappointed with the UHD/HDR thing. In fact, at this rate I'd MUCH rather just output everything to the projector at 1080p. What's going on here? I really for the life of me cannot figure this out. Please point me to a basic set of recommended settings for the projector.
*Please HELP!*

PS: The 3D experience on the Epson just completely blows the Panasonic away. WOW!


----------



## ayrton

Jameshtx said:


> Should I need a linker if I'm watching 4k blu ray disc on my Oppo 203?


I'm watching 4K UHD HDRs played on my 203 just fine without a Linker..


----------



## seplant

Sanjay said:


> I just upgraded from a Panasonic AE-7000U to an Epson EH-TW8300 (5040UB). I am feeding it with an Oppo UDP-203 and an Egreat A-10 UHD media player. The signal is routed thru a Marantz AV8802A. Why does the picture become lifeless as soon as I switch the Oppo or the Egreat to source direct or 4K output? Why is it that when I play regular blu-rays or even UHD blu-rays set to output 1080p, I get a farrrrrrr superior picture? As great an improvement that I find the Epson over the Panasonic, I am HUGELY disappointed with the UHD/HDR thing. In fact, at this rate I'd MUCH rather just output everything to the projector at 1080p. What's going on here? I really for the life of me cannot figure this out. Please point me to a basic set of recommended settings for the projector.
> *Please HELP!*
> 
> PS: The 3D experience on the Epson just completely blows the Panasonic away. WOW!


Make sure you have the latest firmware (1.11) and have the dynamic range setting under Signal > Advanced > Dynamic Range set to Auto (Bright). That should make a huge difference. In addition, there are numerous custom settings that other owners have posted that should improve your image. Search for "Oledurt" in particular. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## ayrton

Sanjay said:


> I just upgraded from a Panasonic AE-7000U to an Epson EH-TW8300 (5040UB). I am feeding it with an Oppo UDP-203 and an Egreat A-10 UHD media player. The signal is routed thru a Marantz AV8802A. Why does the picture become lifeless as soon as I switch the Oppo or the Egreat to source direct or 4K output? Why is it that when I play regular blu-rays or even UHD blu-rays set to output 1080p, I get a farrrrrrr superior picture? As great an improvement that I find the Epson over the Panasonic, I am HUGELY disappointed with the UHD/HDR thing. In fact, at this rate I'd MUCH rather just output everything to the projector at 1080p. What's going on here? I really for the life of me cannot figure this out. Please point me to a basic set of recommended settings for the projector.
> *Please HELP!*
> 
> PS: The 3D experience on the Epson just completely blows the Panasonic away. WOW!


I don't know if this will help, but worth reading.. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...official-oppo-udp-203-owner-s-thread-292.html


----------



## Nathan Cardinale

I have my Xbox one s going to the HDFury Integral set to 4k60 600Mhz 444 HDR bt2020 to Linker which converts it to 1080p 444 HDR BT2020. I let the projector upscale it to 4K. I prefer having the extra color than the 4K input, letting the projector just upscale it. 

I’m pretty sure I’m going to get a Vertex though so i can go from 4k60 444 > 4k30 422


----------



## Jameshtx

I snapped this while streaming a UHD movie on my apple tv 4k. Isn’t there something I can change in the settings to get better picture or color quality? Sorry im really new at this










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Des511

Jameshtx said:


> I snapped this while streaming a UHD movie on my apple tv 4k. Isn’t there something I can change in the settings to get better picture or color quality? Sorry im really new at this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Have you put the projector in HDR mode and what are your setting on the Apple 4K?


----------



## xxrb1

Sanjay said:


> I just upgraded from a Panasonic AE-7000U to an Epson EH-TW8300 (5040UB). I am feeding it with an Oppo UDP-203 and an Egreat A-10 UHD media player. The signal is routed thru a Marantz AV8802A. Why does the picture become lifeless as soon as I switch the Oppo or the Egreat to source direct or 4K output? Why is it that when I play regular blu-rays or even UHD blu-rays set to output 1080p, I get a farrrrrrr superior picture? As great an improvement that I find the Epson over the Panasonic, I am HUGELY disappointed with the UHD/HDR thing. In fact, at this rate I'd MUCH rather just output everything to the projector at 1080p. What's going on here? I really for the life of me cannot figure this out. Please point me to a basic set of recommended settings for the projector.
> *Please HELP!*
> 
> PS: The 3D experience on the Epson just completely blows the Panasonic away. WOW!


Strange, I have the same setup but with a yamaha receiver in direct more too, and force oppo 203 in 2020, 30hz, 12 bit 4:4:4, use HDR1 with 1.11 firmware on epson and 4K UHD discs are way better than any standard blu-ray disc. Make sure that the image coming to your epson is 2020 and not 709


----------



## hnupe

*HDFury Link basic question for 5040UB Help Please*

I have been trying to follow the HDFury Link discussion, however I have some very basic questions that may have been answered, thus sorry for asking again....

1)Does it make the 4k picture better when using a 4k/UHD player?
Receiver: Marantz SR6012
4k Player: Sony UBP-X800

2)Does it make the 4k Apple TV Better?

I will be honest, I get confused in talking about the various ratios, etc.

Any thoughts please? Before I shell out $200 dollars or is it just better to invest in OPPO 203 player?


----------



## Azekecse

Des511 said:


> Have you put the projector in HDR mode and what are your setting on the Apple 4K?


You want to go to the Apple 4K settings menu, video/sound, and set custom video @ 4K/24. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

hnupe said:


> I have been trying to follow the HDFury Link discussion, however I have some very basic questions that may have been answered, thus sorry for asking again....
> 
> 1)Does it make the 4k picture better when using a 4k/UHD player?
> Receiver: Marantz SR6012
> 4k Player: Sony UBP-X800
> 
> 2)Does it make the 4k Apple TV Better?
> 
> I will be honest, I get confused in talking about the various ratios, etc.
> 
> Any thoughts please? Before I shell out $200 dollars or is it just better to invest in OPPO 203 player?


I have the Oppo 203 and HD Linker. If you watch 4k movies, I would purchase the Oppo 203 player first, and 4K high speed cables, if required.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Jameshtx

Des511 said:


> Have you put the projector in HDR mode and what are your setting on the Apple 4K?




Pj is on hdr auto bright 

Apple tv is on 4k sdr. 

Apple tv is plugged in the denon 4300 in the media player slot. 

Would it be better if the apple tv is played thru oppo 203?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

Jameshtx said:


> Pj is on hdr auto bright
> 
> Apple tv is on 4k sdr.


If Apple TV is on SDR then you'll get SDR on the projector.


----------



## Juiced46

Jameshtx said:


> I snapped this while streaming a UHD movie on my apple tv 4k. Isn’t there something I can change in the settings to get better picture or color quality? Sorry im really new at this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are not sending an HDR signal to the projector, that is why it does not look correct. You need to change the settings in Aplle TV to send 4K/24 HDR
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Des511 said:


> Have you put the projector in HDR mode and what are your setting on the Apple 4K?


HDR mode is not going to fix his issue. The issue is he is sending an SDR signal. Changing the Projector to "HDR Auto, 1 etc" Will not fix this. The signal is wrong. 



Jameshtx said:


> Pj is on hdr auto bright
> 
> Apple tv is on 4k sdr.
> 
> Apple tv is plugged in the denon 4300 in the media player slot.
> 
> Would it be better if the apple tv is played thru oppo 203?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do not run it through the Oppo, you need to change your Apple TV settings


----------



## Jameshtx

Juiced46 said:


> HDR mode is not going to fix his issue. The issue is he is sending an SDR signal. Changing the Projector to "HDR Auto, 1 etc" Will not fix this. The signal is wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do not run it through the Oppo, you need to change your Apple TV settings




When I try turning on hdr on apple tv, this comes up. Im using high speed cable










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Jameshtx said:


> When I try turning on hdr on apple tv, this comes up. Im using high speed cable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Are you connected to HDMI 1 on your projector? Also make sure you are not using any sort of scaling in your AVR


----------



## robc1976

beefjazz said:


> yes you can use HDR even when the signal is 1080p. pj automatically detects HDR metadata and acts accordingly. i did some more tests last night and i can assure you that the PQ is far superior when using epson's upscaler. i noticed less artifacts, better colour reproduction, but sharpness seems to be the same in both scenarios.
> I guess that's the whole point of this machine. never forget that this pj is still a 1080p, yes it accepts native 2160p signal but i think if you want to experience the full potential of this machine, is to stick with 1080p signal and leave the rest to be processed by its upscaler.
> 
> but i want to hear what you think as well.
> 
> i ordered the hdfury linker, but dont know if this will help in any way. if the image is better with 1080p signal, then i dont see the point of using the linker.
> 
> but have to make sure.


I think your right to be honest, I have noticed in 4K HDR you get grains or pixel shifting. My questions are

1. Do use use the UHD disc since its HDR and regular bluray is not HDR.

2. I.have the oppo, what setting do I need to set it to have 1080P HDR? 

3. My linker goes to receiver to Epson so everything.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

Juiced46 said:


> Are you connected to HDMI 1 on your projector? Also make sure you are not using any sort of scaling in your AVR




Yes hdmi# 1 slot

I went to format and it allowed me to choose 4k hdr 25hz.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

I don’t know what’s scaling is on my av receiver means


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

beefjazz said:


> in theory yes, that would be as if watching the 1080p disc since the resolution is downscaled, BUT the bitrate does not change which will give you better PQ, since the UHD's bitrate is way higher than BDs, and that means more data to be processed.
> 
> Try testing it for yourself. Use an image which has a uniform picture, for example i used Blue Planet II UHD in frames where there is a lot of openness, i.e. blue skies or underwater with light passing through etc. and what i noticed is that when the signal is 4K native, i get this kind of pixelated circles on areas when the colour/brightness slightly changes, where in 1080p signal this is far less noticeable.
> 
> I believe that when 4k signal is fed to epson, the image is less processed, its pixel shifting is not working as it was designed to, hence the 4k enchancement option set to disabled.
> 
> i might be wrong, but thats the reason i came here to discuss.


Couldn't we also do this in gaming with xbox X? 4K game set xbox to 1080P and run 1080P 12 bit HDR? I love this thinking...you could then still use oledurts or HV with this still.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Jameshtx said:


> I don’t know what’s scaling is on my av receiver means
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok,so it allowed you to select 4k/24 correct? What does your projector info menu say now? Scaling is in your video settings of your AVR.


----------



## Juiced46

robc1976 said:


> Couldn't we also do this in gaming with xbox X? 4K game set xbox to 1080P and run 1080P 12 bit HDR? I love this thinking...you could then still use oledurts or HV with this still.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Xbox does not allow you to force 1080p HDR. PS4 Pro does though


----------



## Jameshtx

Jameshtx said:


> Yes hdmi# 1 slot
> 
> I went to format and it allowed me to choose 4k hdr 25hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Well that didnt work. Still shows sdr bt709 on pj info menu


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Jameshtx said:


> Well that didnt work. Still shows sdr bt709 on pj info menu
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Load a 4K hdr movie. If it still doesnt work. Bypass your AVR. Go from the APPleTV directly to the PJ. If it works. Its a setting in your AVR


----------



## Jameshtx

Juiced46 said:


> Ok,so it allowed you to select 4k/24 correct? What does your projector info menu say now? Scaling is in your video settings of your AVR.




So the i/p scaler should be disabled right?










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> Xbox does not allow you to force 1080p HDR. PS4 Pro does though


Damn lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Jameshtx said:


> So the i/p scaler should be disabled right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Turn the scaler off and HDMI output to HDMI1


----------



## Jameshtx

Juiced46 said:


> Turn the scaler off and HDMI output to HDMI1




It worked! Thanks Made my day


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Brajesh

Confused about benefits of HDfury Linker. I have a Yamaha 3050 AVR (mode 2) in between Epson & my 4K media players (nVidia Shield TV, Apple TV 4K & Zidoo X9S).

For now, I pretty much need to force [email protected] or 24.000 to get 10-bit (or 12-bit as Epson likes/shows) & HDR to work properly. Problem is 29.970/30/59.94/60 stuff, both 1080p and 4K. Anyone have anything similar to my setup, and if so, what is your Linker setting?


----------



## robc1976

I have to say 1080p with 4:2:2 12bit HDR with Epson 4K enhancement is better than 4K 8bit.

What's weird is harpervision is much better on movies than oledurt settings but on 4K gaming oledurts beats harper vision. The harpervision is not as crisp and lack detail on gaming but in movies it has more detail, better skin tone better detail ect.

Weird to me to be honest

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

beefjazz said:


> 1) normal iris vs high iris has do to with the response time on how fast this mechanism works. normal iris is slower, and more noticeable to viewer when picture changes fast from light to dark or vise versa; you can see that the iris takes a bit time to adjust. In high iris mode this is less noticeable, iris works faster and therefore the transition from light to dark or vise versa is faster.
> I think the only reason you have to choose between those,is because iris use to make some noise when working and some people dont like having to listen to the iris mechanism. one other reason might be because normal iris is more power efficient. I always use it on High Iris mode.
> 
> 
> 2) No. Epson only receives the signal you sent from your device. you cannot set on pj resolution or color space, framerate and so on. These settings are configured only by output device (ie. players, consoles, AVRs etc).
> 
> hope that helps.


I wonder why oledurt has"Auto iris" set to off? Your post makes me think I need it on high, this setting doesn't effect picture quality correct? Seems to give a slight bit more light to picture....I could be wrong

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

beefjazz said:


> in case anyone's wondering, i can get BT.2020 HDR and FI in 1080p signal


What does FI do? I never really looked into this setting.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Dominic Chan said:


> HDR will look worse than SDR, if there's not enough lumens to produce at lease ~100 nits peak, and if you don't calibrate it (HDR is far more demanding than SDR in terms of calibration).
> 
> In any case, for this kind of pictures where there is no "specular highlights" or colours outside the Rec709 gamut, even properly calibrated HDR won't look any better than SDR.


You may know the answer to this, when calibrating contrast via manascolia test patterns should 1000nit on test pattern barely be blinking? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Mr.G

In order for a video projector to achieve a light output equivalent to 1,000 Nits the projector needs to be able to output as much as 3,426 ANSI Lumens, which is out of range for most dedicated home theater projectors.


----------



## dholmes54

Sorry I know this has been asked several times but what size thumb drive are you suppose for the upgrade?


----------



## viperlogic

Mr.G said:


> In order for a video projector to achieve a light output equivalent to 1,000 Nits the projector needs to be able to output as much as 3,426 ANSI Lumens, which is out of range for most dedicated home theater projectors.


we use tone mapping for this so can calibrate to 1000 or 4000 nit masters which you can verify against ryans patterns


----------



## Mr.G

dholmes54 said:


> Sorry I know this has been asked several times but what size thumb drive are you suppose for the upgrade?


The bin file is only about 42 MB in size.


----------



## Mr.G

viperlogic said:


> we use tone mapping for this so can calibrate to 1000 or 4000 nit masters which you can verify against ryans patterns


Yes, that's fine. But one is a work-around, the other is the reality.


----------



## thecloneranger

what brand 4k cables are yall using with oppo 203 to epson 5040? im having problems with sound but no picture. keep getting not supported mesage but if i unplug the hdmi and plug it back in itll show the picture. thinking maybe poor cables


----------



## ayrton

thecloneranger said:


> what brand 4k cables are yall using with oppo 203 to epson 5040? im having problems with sound but no picture. keep getting not supported mesage but if i unplug the hdmi and plug it back in itll show the picture. thinking maybe poor cables


Monoprice "Premium Certified High Speed"


----------



## Buckeye Dave

thecloneranger said:


> what brand 4k cables are yall using with oppo 203 to epson 5040? im having problems with sound but no picture. keep getting not supported mesage but if i unplug the hdmi and plug it back in itll show the picture. thinking maybe poor cables


The 6' HDMI cable that came with the Oppo 203 is a premium certified cable. I have that running from the 203 to the AVR and a 25' premium certified cable from Monoprice running from the AVR to the 5040. Works flawlessly.


----------



## roland6465

6040UB refurb #3 arrived a little while ago, and is warming up to room temperature before I get started taking down #2 . I'm hoping that this one was returned for a bad power supply and fixed, instead of the obvious panel problem #2 had. I'm almost afraid of firing this one up to see what's wrong with _*this*_ one.


----------



## old corps

roland6465 said:


> 6040UB refurb #3 arrived a little while ago, and is warming up to room temperature before I get started taking down #2 . I'm hoping that this one was returned for a bad power supply and fixed, instead of the obvious panel problem #2 had. I'm almost afraid of firing this one up to see what's wrong with _*this*_ one.


We're pullin' for ya, good luck!


Ed


----------



## megametaman

Welcome me to the club, ladies and germs. Just got back from Abt electronics with a 5040UB. I price matched Abe’s for Maine and got a warranty. 

I can’t wait to start experimenting. I don’t even have an screen yet. No UHD discs either. I’ll probably try some YouTube and video games to start with.


----------



## aaranddeeman

@megametaman I believe this is "no price talk" thread. 
You have been warned...


----------



## megametaman

aaranddeeman said:


> @megametaman I believe this is "no price talk" thread.
> You have been warned...


Hey. So sorry. I just realized that after the fact. I was so excited to get a decent deal. I'll go back and edit my post. 

Tested out my 5040UB last night and it is so awesome! I can't wait to mess with it some more. I still need a UHD blu ray player. If anyone has a suggestion I would appreciate it. I wish PS5 or at least a PS4 with a player existed.


----------



## dholmes54

thxs Mr G.


----------



## mckracken88

Good day. Can somebody tell me (or better show me) if the Pannasonic dmp900 is worth it if im only interested in its 1080p to 4k upscaling?
Does it do a better job than the Projector?


----------



## raf77

No.


----------



## raf77

megametaman said:


> hey. So sorry. I just realized that after the fact. I was so excited to get a decent deal. I'll go back and edit my post.
> 
> Tested out my 5040ub last night and it is so awesome! I can't wait to mess with it some more. I still need a uhd blu ray player. If anyone has a suggestion i would appreciate it. I wish ps5 or at least a ps4 with a player existed.


ps5?


----------



## megametaman

raf77 said:


> ps5?


PlayStation 5

I can only assume you are trying to troll. But, yes, PS5 is a standard abbreviation for PlayStation 5.


----------



## raf77

Not realised yet!


----------



## megametaman

raf77 said:


> Not realised yet!


" I wish ps5 or at least a ps4 with a player existed."

Yup. A troll. One who can't read too good, neither. 

Back on topic. 

I am putting the 5040UB in my basement and am considering several installation options. I was hoping to get feedback. 

First some background:
My basement 7 foot ceilings with parts as low as 6 feet. Right now I plan to put the projector in the middle of the basement facing a side wall. THe middle of the basment has a separating wall that only take up half the length of the basement. This wall is 8 feet wide and will serve as the back wall. The separating wall is about 11 feet away from the side wall where the image will be projected. 


#1 - Put a hole in the wall and project through the hole directly onto the side wall. This would allow me to center the imagine directly across from the projector.

#2 - Move the projector over to a doorway that never gets used and project through this "doorway" (more like just space with no wall). Doing this would make me have to horizontal lens shift almost the whole 40% or so to one side.

#1 - Advantages
- Possibly some projector noise will be reduced.
- wont be able to physically see projector
- cool look, like a movie theater
- Doesn't take up space in doorway
- I want to pay a former student to paint a mural with the projector opening as part of it (I think this would be cool)
Disadvantages
- have to put a hole in a wall
- harder to change later
- standing up from MLP will result in shadow on screen

#2 - Advantages
- No hole in the wall
- Easier to change mind later
- Less likely to put shadow on wall (?)
Disadvantages
- image quality (?)
- takes up doorway space
- doesn't look as cool


I love the fact that the 5040UB has good lens shift. This allows me to shift the screen to the side, but I'm not sure if that's detrimental to the PQ. I know that keystoning is, but not sure about shifting. 

ANy help would be appreciated.


----------



## Shane M

Does anyone have experience with the new firmware making HDR too dark? I feel like I liked it better back on my old version (I upgraded from 108 to 111). I even tried Auto (Bright) mode and it's still quite dark compared to what I had before, which was (I think) HDR 1.


----------



## viperlogic

Shane M said:


> Does anyone have experience with the new firmware making HDR too dark? I feel like I liked it better back on my old version (I upgraded from 108 to 111). I even tried Auto (Bright) mode and it's still quite dark compared to what I had before, which was (I think) HDR 1.


HDR1 (Auto Bright) on 1.11 is a new config/profile
HDR2 (Auto) on 1.11 is the old pre 1.11 HDR1


----------



## Shane M

viperlogic said:


> HDR1 (Auto Bright) on 1.11 is a new config/profile
> HDR2 (Auto) on 1.11 is the old pre 1.11 HDR1


Then I suspect I was on HDR 2 before.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Shane M said:


> Then I suspect I was on HDR 2 before.


HDR 2 would be even darker than HDR 1. In general, 1.11 should be brighter than corresponding modes in previous firmware.


----------



## Shane M

Dominic Chan said:


> HDR 2 would be even darker than HDR 1. In general, 1.11 should be brighter than corresponding modes in previous firmware.


Interesting. OK. I'll have to look more. It definitely seemed darker to me. Thanks.


----------



## raf77

megametaman said:


> " I wish ps5 or at least a ps4 with a player existed."
> 
> Yup. A troll. One who can't read too good, neither.
> 
> Back on topic.
> 
> I am putting the 5040UB in my basement and am considering several installation options. I was hoping to get feedback.
> 
> First some background:
> My basement 7 foot ceilings with parts as low as 6 feet. Right now I plan to put the projector in the middle of the basement facing a side wall. THe middle of the basment has a separating wall that only take up half the length of the basement. This wall is 8 feet wide and will serve as the back wall. The separating wall is about 11 feet away from the side wall where the image will be projected.
> 
> 
> #1 - Put a hole in the wall and project through the hole directly onto the side wall. This would allow me to center the imagine directly across from the projector.
> 
> #2 - Move the projector over to a doorway that never gets used and project through this "doorway" (more like just space with no wall). Doing this would make me have to horizontal lens shift almost the whole 40% or so to one side.
> 
> #1 - Advantages
> - Possibly some projector noise will be reduced.
> - wont be able to physically see projector
> - cool look, like a movie theater
> - Doesn't take up space in doorway
> - I want to pay a former student to paint a mural with the projector opening as part of it (I think this would be cool)
> Disadvantages
> - have to put a hole in a wall
> - harder to change later
> - standing up from MLP will result in shadow on screen
> 
> #2 - Advantages
> - No hole in the wall
> - Easier to change mind later
> - Less likely to put shadow on wall (?)
> Disadvantages
> - image quality (?)
> - takes up doorway space
> - doesn't look as cool
> 
> 
> I love the fact that the 5040UB has good lens shift. This allows me to shift the screen to the side, but I'm not sure if that's detrimental to the PQ. I know that keystoning is, but not sure about shifting.
> 
> ANy help would be appreciated.


I wish you, yours wishes became true. As soon, as Sony will release new console PS5.

Wishman.


----------



## Deftec

*Hdr*

I have similar feeling like Shane M, HDR 1, 2, 3 they make the image so dark that it looses the natural picture quality, i don't understand the purpose of these HDR settings? When and with what combination we should use these settings?
I was under the impression that HDR would make the image more bright, more natural with rich colors as we see in the display units in all Electronics stores but these settings make the picture look awful.


----------



## Juiced46

Deftec said:


> I have similar feeling like Shane M, HDR 1, 2, 3 they make the image so dark that it looses the natural picture quality, i don't understand the purpose of these HDR settings? When and with what combination we should use these settings?
> I was under the impression that HDR would make the image more bright, more natural with rich colors as we see in the display units in all Electronics stores but these settings make the picture look awful.


Can you give us a bit more info on your settings?

What image setting are you using? Have you done any calibrations or used any suggested settings from this forum?

With the 1.11 firmware, the HDR settings should not look darker. Also you should be using Auto Bright for the brightest image. 

Stupid question but I have to ask, have you verified you are actually getting an HDR signal to the projector? If you are running HDR1 or Auto Bright with a verified HDR signal and it looks "awful" something is terribly terribly wrong. My guess is you are feeding the PJ a BT 709 signal.


----------



## Deftec

*Roku*

I recently purchased Roku Ultra and connected to the proj via AVR, all the HDMI's i own only support 4k uhd 30Hz (that's what roku shows in display type) and set the color format to BT2020 but when i look into the projector info it shows Color format as BT. 709 SDR and color depth as 8 bit 4:2:0 or 4:0:0, i tried changing settings but it didn't change much in the info. But when I connect my sony 4k uhd player it shows color depth as 12 bit 4:4:4 but color format still remains as BT709SDR, I am not able to understand what setting i need to change to see the color format as BT2020HDR? Can some one suggest what i am missing?


----------



## Juiced46

Deftec said:


> I recently purchased Roku Ultra and connected to the proj via AVR, all the HDMI's i own only support 4k uhd 30Hz (that's what roku shows in display type) and set the color format to BT2020 but when i look into the projector info it shows Color format as BT. 709 SDR and color depth as 8 bit 4:2:0 or 4:0:0, i tried changing settings but it didn't change much in the info. But when I connect my sony 4k uhd player it shows color depth as 12 bit 4:4:4 but color format still remains as BT709SDR, I am not able to understand what setting i need to change to see the color format as BT2020HDR? Can some one suggest what i am missing?



.....and that is why it looks terrible. The projector is not receiving BT2020 HDR signal. It is only getting an SDR signal which is why it does not look correct. 

Unfortunately I do not have any experience with the Roku Ultra or the Sony BD player so I cannot give you any suggestions. But do not lose hope, once you get the correct signal to your projector, it will look amazing.


----------



## Deftec

Juiced46 said:


> Can you give us a bit more info on your settings?
> 
> What image setting are you using? Have you done any calibrations or used any suggested settings from this forum?/QUOTE]
> Not done yet but will be trying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the 1.11 firmware, the HDR settings should not look darker. Also you should be using Auto Bright for the brightest image./QUOTE] I have selected AutoBright as the setting as HDR looks too dark for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stupid question but I have to ask, have you verified you are actually getting an HDR signal to the projector? My guess is you are feeding the PJ a BT 709 signal. /QUOTE] You are right, I tried but i see only BT709SDR in the info not sure what setting i need to change to check? I posted the same finding in my previous post titled "Roku".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> .....and that is why it looks terrible. The projector is not receiving BT2020 HDR signal. It is only getting an SDR signal which is why it does not look correct.
> 
> Unfortunately I do not have any experience with the Roku Ultra or the Sony BD player so I cannot give you any suggestions. But do not lose hope, once you get the correct signal to your projector, it will look amazing.


I had a Sony and had to shut it on and off for it to have HDR signal on many occasions

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Deftec

Juiced46 said:


> . But do not lose hope, once you get the correct signal to your projector, it will look amazing.


Thank You Juiced46, for giving me hope, do you or anyone thinks it can be HDMI cable I am using, but I get the same results with Audioquest Pearl HDMI cable


----------



## Juiced46

Deftec said:


> Thank You Juiced46, for giving me hope, do you or anyone thinks it can be HDMI cable I am using, but I get the same results with Audioquest Pearl HDMI cable



What exact HDMI cables are you using?

Are you running your sources through an AVR? If so, which model?

What model is your Blu Ray player?


----------



## Deftec

Juiced46 said:


> What exact HDMI cables are you using?
> 
> Are you running your sources through an AVR? If so, which model?
> 
> What model is your Blu Ray player?


My AVR is Anthem MRX 720, hdmi cables are "Atevon" but I am using "AudioQuest Pearl" and My Sony Player is BDP 6700


----------



## Juiced46

Deftec said:


> My AVR is Anthem MRX 720, hdmi cables are "Atevon" but I am using "AudioQuest Pearl" and My Sony Player is BDP 6700


I looked up both of those cables quick and both look like they pass 4k/60 unless you have a different model of those cables then what I found. 

When I get a minute I will have to look up the manual on that AVR. But you want to make sure in your video settings in your AVR you are not using any type of video conversion/scaling. You basically do not want the AVR to do anything to the video signal aside from passing it to the Projector. On my Denon if I have my Video output set to AUTO, it does not output an HDR signal. I have to manually select it to output to HDMI 1 which is my HDCP 2.2 port. Not sure if your AVR does the same but its worth a try. 

Another quick test if you have not done it is go straight from the Roku to the projectors HDMI 1. And then also try going straight from the Sony BD player to the projectors HDMI 1 port. This way if it works, we know its a setting in the AVR. This is probably the quickest test for you to try. 

On your Roku for your Display settings. Do you have it set to AUTO? If so, what other options does it give you? Is there an option for 4K/24hz or 4K/30hz HDR? If so try that instead of auto. Like I said, I have no experience with the Roku. But some streaming devices output @ 4k/60 10-12bit which is an unacceptable signal for the Epson.


----------



## Lithium

Deftec said:


> I recently purchased Roku Ultra and connected to the proj via AVR, all the HDMI's i own only support 4k uhd 30Hz (that's what roku shows in display type) and set the color format to BT2020 but when i look into the projector info it shows Color format as BT. 709 SDR and color depth as 8 bit 4:2:0 or 4:0:0, i tried changing settings but it didn't change much in the info. But when I connect my sony 4k uhd player it shows color depth as 12 bit 4:4:4 but color format still remains as BT709SDR, I am not able to understand what setting i need to change to see the color format as BT2020HDR? Can some one suggest what i am missing?


The Roku Ultra does not play nice with HDR and the Epson's bandwidth limits. You'll get a lot of HDMI handshaking between menus and most apps will not send 12-bit 24Hz HDR. I personally disable HDR in the display settings on my Roku. If I want HDR with Netflix or Amazon I use the Samsung K8500's apps which support forcing 12-bit 24Hz HDR.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Lithium said:


> The Roku Ultra does not play nice with HDR and the Epson's bandwidth limits. You'll get a lot of HDMI handshaking between menus and most apps will not send 12-bit 24Hz HDR. I personally disable HDR in the display settings on my Roku. If I want HDR with Netflix or Amazon I use the Samsung K8500's apps which support forcing 12-bit 24Hz HDR.


Does the Apple 4K unit also play nice with the Epson 5040/6040 like the Sammy K8500 does re: Netflix 4K HDR and Amazon 4K HDR at a higher than 8 bit bit rate to avoid banding?


----------



## Lithium

WynsWrld98 said:


> Does the Apple 4K unit also play nice with the Epson 5040/6040 like the Sammy K8500 does re: Netflix 4K HDR and Amazon 4K HDR at a higher than 8 bit bit rate to avoid banding?


I don't have an Apple 4K, but there was a post a few pages back that said you can set a custom resolution so it may work. Maybe someone who owns one can chime in for you.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-430.html#post55585342


----------



## nefrina

was really hoping that the 5040 would go on sale this week given the superbowl. c'est la vie


----------



## mckracken88

my 5040ub arrived today. When i opened the box i saw that the lens-cover was half open. Is that regular? Or should it be closed?
Just wondering. Thank you for replying.


----------



## stupot1971

mckracken88 said:


> my 5040ub arrived today. When i opened the box i saw that the lens-cover was half open. Is that regular? Or should it be closed?
> Just wondering. Thank you for replying.


It's just moved in transit. It will be fine.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## ayrton

Lithium said:


> The Roku Ultra does not play nice with HDR and the Epson's bandwidth limits. You'll get a lot of HDMI handshaking between menus and most apps will not send 12-bit 24Hz HDR. I personally disable HDR in the display settings on my Roku. If I want HDR with Netflix or Amazon I use the Samsung K8500's apps which support forcing 12-bit 24Hz HDR.


I too have an 8500. When I stream Netflix 60 Hz it won't convert to 24/30?? My UBe won't handle that if UHD HDR.. 

Yours will??


----------



## Deftec

Juiced46 said:


> I looked up both of those cables quick and both look like they pass 4k/60 unless you have a different model of those cables then what I found.
> 
> When I get a minute I will have to look up the manual on that AVR. But you want to make sure in your video settings in your AVR you are not using any type of video conversion/scaling. You basically do not want the AVR to do anything to the video signal aside from passing it to the Projector. On my Denon if I have my Video output set to AUTO, it does not output an HDR signal. I have to manually select it to output to HDMI 1 which is my HDCP 2.2 port. Not sure if your AVR does the same but its worth a try.
> 
> Another quick test if you have not done it is go straight from the Roku to the projectors HDMI 1. And then also try going straight from the Sony BD player to the projectors HDMI 1 port. This way if it works, we know its a setting in the AVR. This is probably the quickest test for you to try.
> 
> On your Roku for your Display settings. Do you have it set to AUTO? If so, what other options does it give you? Is there an option for 4K/24hz or 4K/30hz HDR? If so try that instead of auto. Like I said, I have no experience with the Roku. But some streaming devices output @ 4k/60 10-12bit which is an unacceptable signal for the Epson.


Thanks Juiced46 for taking interest in resolving my issue. My AVR does 4k pass through there is no conversion but will check again this weekend and as suggested I will try to connect directly from Roku & sony BP to Epson and verify if any change happens as it has Ruipro hdmi cable.
On Roku I have set to 4k uhd 30Hz HDR as it is not recognizing 60Hz and displaying error that HDMI does not support for every cable i tried.


----------



## Lithium

ayrton said:


> I too have an 8500. When I stream Netflix 60 Hz it won't convert to 24/30?? My UBe won't handle that if UHD HDR..
> 
> Yours will??


I don't know if the UBe has any impact but with a regular cabled setup if you set the following on your 8500 then Netflix/Amazon will convert HDR to 12-bit @ 24Hz:

Movie Frame (24Fs): Auto (this is now split into two options with latest firmware, set both to Auto)
DVD 24Fs Conversion: Auto
HDMI Deep Color: Auto


----------



## Oledurt

Hello all...

Firmware 1.11 adds a new tone mapped auto bright HDR 1 mode. I will be having my calibrator come out, and re calibrate digital cinema to see if we can achieve a better result. I have messed around with the gamma on my own and I think there is some potential for a better calibration. Will let you know how things go.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

Oledurt said:


> Hello all...
> 
> Firmware 1.11 adds a new tone mapped auto bright HDR 1 mode. I will be having my calibrator come out, and re calibrate digital cinema to see if we can achieve a better result. I have messed around with the gamma on my own and I think there is some potential for a better calibration. Will let you know how things go.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


awesome looking forward to it


----------



## ayrton

Lithium said:


> I don't know if the UBe has any impact but with a regular cabled setup if you set the following on your 8500 then Netflix/Amazon will convert HDR to 12-bit @ 24Hz:
> 
> Movie Frame (24Fs): Auto (this is now split into two options with latest firmware, set both to Auto)
> DVD 24Fs Conversion: Auto
> HDMI Deep Color: Auto


Thanks for the response! 

Got it all but Deep Color..

Even their support couldn't help me..


----------



## roland6465

Oledurt said:


> Hello all...
> 
> Firmware 1.11 adds a new tone mapped auto bright HDR 1 mode. I will be having my calibrator come out, and re calibrate digital cinema to see if we can achieve a better result. I have messed around with the gamma on my own and I think there is some potential for a better calibration. Will let you know how things go.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Great news! Your settings have been my baseline through 4 different 6040s.


----------



## Baratum

roland6465 said:


> Great news! Your settings have been my baseline through 4 different 6040s.


Good afternoon, I bought a projector tw9300 (hc5040) and a little disappointed. In an almost completely darkened room, the gray bars are clearly visible on the top and bottom of the screen and for some reason it is not visible that the aperture on dark scenes has triggered, set a completely black background and it appears dark gray. Still very much distressed the moment when on some bright scenes in the film the image looks faded, as if there is not enough contrast. Do everyone have these problems, or can I get caught up in this? I took the epson tw5300 (hc2040) projector as a replacement and did not see a strong difference unfortunately. I apologize for the bad English I wrote through an interpreter.


----------



## dimi123

Baratum said:


> In an almost completely darkened room, the gray bars are clearly visible on the top and bottom of the screen and for some reason it is not visible that the aperture on dark scenes has triggered, set a completely black background and it appears dark gray.


Try Natural mode with Gamma -1/-2, Epson Super White ON and Lens Iris -20.


----------



## Baratum

Which range of hdmi should be set correctly or extended? In the nvidia control panel, you need to set 1080p or 4k own resolution? Are the bars gray at the top and bottom when watching a movie in a dark room? Screen draper luma hcg. There is a mode of digital cinema, eco mode of the lamp, diaphragm closed -20, the speed of the diaphragm is high. The level of black is very weak, slightly better than 5300 (hc2040). On bright scenes the image is contrasted and the contrast is not enough. I will most likely change.


----------



## dimi123

Baratum said:


> Which range of hdmi should be set correctly or extended? In the nvidia control panel, you need to set 1080p or 4k own resolution? Are the bars gray at the top and bottom when watching a movie in a dark room? Screen draper luma hcg. There is a mode of digital cinema, eco mode of the lamp, diaphragm closed -20, the speed of the diaphragm is high. The level of black is very weak, slightly better than 5300 (hc2040). On bright scenes the image is contrasted and the contrast is not enough. I will most likely change.


If you are using a HTPC with Nvidia graphics card then set to 4Kx2k 3840x2160 (native) resolution, 30Hz refresh rate, 32-bit desktop color depth, 12bpc output color depth and YCbCR422 output color format. If Epson Super White is activated HDMI Color Range is greyed out. Try ECO mode with Auto Iris Normal.


----------



## Baratum

dimi123 said:


> If you are using a HTPC with Nvidia graphics card then set to 4Kx2k 3840x2160 (native) resolution, 30Hz refresh rate, 32-bit desktop color depth, 12bpc output color depth and YCbCR422 output color format. If Epson Super White is activated HDMI Color Range is greyed out. Try ECO mode with Auto Iris Normal.


Thanks, I'll definitely try these settings.


----------



## dimi123

Baratum said:


> Thanks, I'll definitely try these settings.


If you don't plan on watching HDR content you can use 60hz refresh rate, 8bpc output color depth and ycbcr420 output color format.


----------



## Baratum

dimi123 said:


> If you don't plan on watching HDR content you can even use 60hz refresh rate, 8bpc output color depth and ycbcr444 output color format.


Thanks, I'm only interested in watching sdr.


----------



## Klipsch2010

WynsWrld98 said:


> Does the Apple 4K unit also play nice with the Epson 5040/6040 like the Sammy K8500 does re: Netflix 4K HDR and Amazon 4K HDR at a higher than 8 bit bit rate to avoid banding?


Apple TV plays quite nicely with the 5040. I have been using it for a few months now and am very happy with it. You can force all kinds of resolutions, frame rates, chroma settings, and even HDR upscaling on the Apple TV.


----------



## nefrina

would i be able to use the 5040 with a throw of 12.6' on a 110" screen? some of the online calculators worry me.


----------



## rcman1953

serith said:


> would i be able to use the 5040 with a throw of 12.6' on a 110" screen? some of the online calculators worry me.


I have a 110" screen and my 5040UB is 14.8 feet from screen and picture is awesome. My room is somewhat light controlled, but not great. I have diffused light coming in from three different windows. Hope this helps you.


----------



## Juiced46

Deftec said:


> Thanks Juiced46 for taking interest in resolving my issue. My AVR does 4k pass through there is no conversion but will check again this weekend and as suggested I will try to connect directly from Roku & sony BP to Epson and verify if any change happens as it has Ruipro hdmi cable.
> On Roku I have set to 4k uhd 30Hz HDR as it is not recognizing 60Hz and displaying error that HDMI does not support for every cable i tried.


If you look one page back. Lithium stated that the Roku does not work will with HDR with this projector. Like I mentioned, I do not have any experience with it as I do all my streaming through my Xbox One X. 



serith said:


> would i be able to use the 5040 with a throw of 12.6' on a 110" screen? some of the online calculators worry me.


Yes. @ 12.6' Lense to screen you will throw a 110" image using a 1.81x zoom. @ FULL Zoom you can throw a max image size of 128"


----------



## Luís Amaral

Hello, recently i bought a 4k HDR Zappiti for play 4K contents, but i am a little disappointing with the image quality, i do not understand why i can´t play 4K content with 10bit color depth @ 3840 x 2160 24hz should work correct ? i still prefer the image quality on 1080p 

Thanks 
Luís Amaral


----------



## Juiced46

Luís Amaral said:


> Hello, recently i bought a 4k HDR Zappiti for play 4K contents, but i am a little disappointing with the image quality, i do not understand why i can´t play 4K content with 10bit color depth @ 3840 x 2160 24hz should work correct ? i still prefer the image quality on 1080p
> 
> Thanks
> Luís Amaral


The projector may not be accepting the signal your source is trying to send. Are you forcing 4K/24 10 bit from the device? The image quality looks bad probably because the projector is not receiving the proper signal. What does your projector info screen show it is receiving for a signal? The projector has issues with accepting signals and (downgrading) to an accepted signal from some media devices. For instance on my Xbox One X. Amazon Prime and Netflix both output 4K/60hz 12bit HDR. This is not an accepted signal. With Amazon, the projector will downgrade it to 4K/24 12bit HDR and work great. Netflix will not do HDR at all. So you have to either use a device that is known to be compatible to the projector to get you the proper signal (alot of talk about those devices in this thread) or buy a Linker to force an acceptable signal.


----------



## Luís Amaral

Juiced46 said:


> The projector may not be accepting the signal your source is trying to send. Are you forcing 4K/24 10 bit from the device? The image quality looks bad probably because the projector is not receiving the proper signal. What does your projector info screen show it is receiving for a signal? The projector has issues with accepting signals and (downgrading) to an accepted signal from some media devices. For instance on my Xbox One X. Amazon Prime and Netflix both output 4K/60hz 12bit HDR. This is not an accepted signal. With Amazon, the projector will downgrade it to 4K/24 12bit HDR and work great. Netflix will not do HDR at all. So you have to either use a device that is known to be compatible to the projector to get you the proper signal (alot of talk about those devices in this thread) or buy a Linker to force an acceptable signal.



I tried to force and the maximum that i have is this:


----------



## Juiced46

Luís Amaral said:


> I tried to force and the maximum that i have is this:


Your issue is that your device is outputting 4:4:4. Due to bandwidth limitations of the projector, you can only do that signal in 8bit @ 4K/24. You are most likely seeing banding which is why it looks bad. The nice thing about using the Xbox One S or X is that you can force 4:2:2 so the projector can accept a 4K/24hz 12bit signal. Your options are to buy a device that works better with the Epson, or buy a Linker. 

Here is a very useful chart. The Epson cannot do over 10gbps. As you can see with a 4K/24hz signal 4:4:4 will show in 8 bit.


----------



## Luís Amaral

Juiced46 said:


> Your issue is that your device is outputting 4:4:4. Due to bandwidth limitations of the projector, you can only do that signal in 8bit @ 4K/24. You are most likely seeing banding which is why it looks bad. The nice thing about using the Xbox One S or X is that you can force 4:2:2 so the projector can accept a 4K/24hz 12bit signal. Your options are to buy a device that works better with the Epson, or buy a Linker.
> 
> Here is a very useful chart. The Epson cannot do over 10gbps. As you can see with a 4K/24hz signal 4:4:4 will show in 8 bit.


Thanks, i forced 12 bit 4:2:2 and works, i think is the best i can do correct ?


----------



## Luís Amaral

Is there a problem force 12bit when the movie is 10bit ?


----------



## ayrton

serith said:


> would i be able to use the 5040 with a throw of 12.6' on a 110" screen? some of the online calculators worry me.


I'm doing about that throw on a 120" Stewart Screen just fine! 

I used Epson's Charts and they worked great!!


----------



## gene4ht

serith said:


> would i be able to use the 5040 with a throw of 12.6' on a 110" screen? some of the online calculators worry me.


Should not be a problem. I have the 5040 with a throw of exactly 12'-0" (lens to screen) on a 115" (diagonal) screen.


----------



## nefrina

thank you all for verifying the throw range will work. the other thing i'm worried about is that the projector will be too bright versus what i'm using now? does anyone know the lumen output in eco-mode for the 5040? i'm using my 2150 in eco and it's ~1600 lumens which is perfect in a light controlled room, hoping the brightness will remain roughly the same.


----------



## Luís Amaral

In my opinion i have better quality playing in 1080p, anyone have the same quality playing 1080p and 4K with this projector ?


----------



## Juiced46

Luís Amaral said:


> In my opinion i have better quality playing in 1080p, anyone have the same quality playing 1080p and 4K with this projector ?


Can you elaborate on "quality"? What settings are you using when you have a 4K HDR signal?


----------



## Luís Amaral

Juiced46 said:


> Can you elaborate on "quality"? What settings are you using when you have a 4K HDR signal?


For example:

I have a Zappati and is configured 12 bit 4:2:2 3840x2160 24hz for play 4K movies !

Same movie, with 1080p and 4K i notice a huge diference !!!! Maybe something is wrong !


----------



## Juiced46

Luís Amaral said:


> For example:
> 
> I have a Zappati and is configured 12 bit 4:2:2 3840x2160 24hz for play 4K movies !
> 
> Same movie, with 1080p and 4K i notice a huge diference !!!! Maybe something is wrong !


Unfortunately that did not answer my question. 

What is the "huge difference in quality" Is it darker, brighter, not as detailed etc?? Also what settings on the projector are you using when viewing 1080p vs 4k/HDR? What viewing mode, what HDR mode? Have you calibrated it at all? Or are you just switching from 1080p to 4k/HDR and changing nothing?


----------



## Luís Amaral

Juiced46 said:


> Unfortunately that did not answer my question.
> 
> What is the "huge difference in quality" Is it darker, brighter, not as detailed etc?? Also what settings on the projector are you using when viewing 1080p vs 4k/HDR? What viewing mode, what HDR mode? Have you calibrated it at all? Or are you just switching from 1080p to 4k/HDR and changing nothing?


More darker, few color, too much brighter, when i play contents 4K i only activate HDR on Projector, i tried to change all parameters and i don't like what i see...

If it helps i can take photos of my settings !

Maybe i notice diference because is on 4:2:2 ? 

1080p i watch on 4:4:4 can be the issue ?


----------



## Juiced46

Luís Amaral said:


> More darker, few color, too much brighter, when i play contents 4K i only activate HDR on Projector, i tried to change all parameters and i don't like what i see...
> 
> If it helps i can take photos of my settings !
> 
> Maybe i notice diference because is on 4:2:2 ?
> 
> 1080p i watch on 4:4:4 can be the issue ?


What view mode areyou using? Dynamic, Bright Cinema, Natural......?


----------



## Luís Amaral

Juiced46 said:


> What view mode areyou using? Dynamic, Bright Cinema, Natural......?


Bright Cinema


----------



## jnabq

Luís Amaral said:


> Bright Cinema


Thought I might vent a bit. I had enjoyed my 6010 for almost 6 yrs, then got magenta lines showing up. So purchased a new 6040. Had it for about 6 mths when the power supply issue hit. 

Now up to my 5th replacement. Dead pixels, dust blobs, weird noises etc. Only one was a refurb, (dust blob), rest have been new, I think. I may rethink buying another epson. 

I like their product when it works correctly, but their quality control seems non-existent. I've been fortunate that my local dealer has been great in dealing with the issues, but sheesh.. My original 6040 (pre power supply prob) was great, really loved it, just wish there was more consistency in their product. Its strange to me that grinding noises, overall picture quality, etc., has varied so much on each of these new replacements I've gotten. 

My current one has a dead pixel, and a weird "old electric clock" warbling noise from the fan. 

I know other products have their issues, and so far epson has been pretty good on replacements, however requiring a Pic of the dead pixels for the last 2 replacements, which I guess was warranted. If you purchase, say a prayer to the pj gods, for a good unit. 

BTW, they did mention their has been power issues, which affected my first one. They told me a new altered chip set and firmware has been implemented to fix this issue. Just not sure if this is being done on new production models or only on the refurb/returns. The rep told me my "new" replacement(s) might encounter the same issue. Well that stinks, but they keep sending me out "new" units. Who knows if these have been "fixed". /vent off


----------



## mikecoscia

mikecoscia said:


> Bumping this up again. Can anyone confirm they have the same issue?


Decided to take a quick video of the motion blurring/smearing I am having with dark objects on light backgrounds. I honestly don't recall having it in the past, but it seems to come and go and some settings/color modes are worse than others. HarperVison was being used for the test below, as it seems to be the worst offender. Has anyone else seen a similar issue? Is there something up with my projector?


----------



## spirithockey79

Has anyone with the 5040 and Oppo 203 combo tried the new HDR settings in Oppo’s latest beta FW? Interested in which settings are preferred, especially as compared to Harpervision settings. I’m installing the new FW in the morning and will provide my thoughts. Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

mikecoscia said:


> Decided to take a quick video of the motion blurring/smearing I am having with dark objects on light backgrounds. I honestly don't recall having it in the past, but it seems to come and go and some settings/color modes are worse than others. HarperVison was being used for the test below, as it seems to be the worst offender. Has anyone else seen a similar issue? Is there something up with my projector?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EF_bgS8Ujbw


I have seen a similar issue using my S&M motion tests on my Epson which I can assure you are a helluva lot worse than that BUT
On further investigation I cant put hand on heart and trust these tests because in real word viewing you don't see it
I based my finding by running the same tests on my Bravia TV and guess what it is exactly the same result

So I would suggest doing the same and put your mind at reast


----------



## Luís Amaral

What are the advantages to buy a linker ?


----------



## Juiced46

Luís Amaral said:


> Bright Cinema


Calibrate using Harpervision or Oledurts settings. Set contrast and brightness to your application.


----------



## mikecoscia

Lesmor said:


> I have seen a similar issue using my S&M motion tests on my Epson which I can assure you are a helluva lot worse than that BUT
> On further investigation I cant put hand on heart and trust these tests because in real word viewing you don't see it
> I based my finding by running the same tests on my Bravia TV and guess what it is exactly the same result
> 
> So I would suggest doing the same and put your mind at reast


I don't think it is the screen technology, but something going one with one of the processing settings. In the posted video, it's just not a black smear, you can see a trail of red as well. It is extremely distracting when playing certain games and watching hockey. In other modes, the effect is greatly reduced and completely acceptable for any TV. For example, in cinema mode with all settings default, there is no issue. Even if I set image enhancement to 5, there still isn't a problem. Digital cinema seems to be the worst offender, but it does pop up in others.


----------



## Juiced46

mikecoscia said:


> I don't think it is the screen technology, but something going one with one of the processing settings. In the posted video, it's just not a black smear, you can see a trail of red as well. It is extremely distracting when playing certain games and watching hockey. In other modes, the effect is greatly reduced and completely acceptable for any TV. For example, in cinema mode with all settings default, there is no issue. Even if I set image enhancement to 5, there still isn't a problem. Digital cinema seems to be the worst offender, but it does pop up in others.


What games are you having issues with? I will try it out on mine to see if I have the same result.


----------



## mikecoscia

Juiced46 said:


> What games are you having issues with? I will try it out on mine to see if I have the same result.


Thanks Juiced, the game really doesn't matter. It's any dark object against a nearly white background. Like the edge of a building moving across the sky when looking up. The easiest place for me to test was in Destiny, during the loading screen. You have that spiked wheel spinning in the lower right corner. With some settings, it leaves trails of black/red as it spins. I was just messing around with it and the defaulted settings for every color mode works pretty well. I'm wondering if it is the high contrast settings of HarperVision combined with a high image enhancement? Those settings are definitely by far the worst, turning off image enhancement reduces the effect greatly. I would leave it off, but gaming in preset 5 looks great...lol.


----------



## Osylvan

Hi, I'm getting ready to mount my 5040 and I have two distances from the screen to choose from. About 15.5 ft and about 21.5 ft. I know that both are within the throw distance available but I'm not sure what is best. Screen is 150" and 1.1 gain. According to projectorscreen.com brightness of 56 fL at 15.5 ft, and 29 fL at 21.5 ft. I have two windows far from the screen that I will be able to mostly black out. The 21.5 ft location is easier and behind the sitting area. I would prefer this, but I can make to other work if it is better. I would really appreciate any recommendation, because I have no idea which spot is best. Thank you.


----------



## siuengr

Luís Amaral said:


> What are the advantages to buy a linker ?


The advantages are that you can get 4K HDR 12 bit from sources like Roku and Shield. It will also allow for 4k HDR 60Hz from Xbox, but will convert to 8 bit. The only disadvantage is that is takes 5-10 seconds to resync when the format changes. This is really annoying on Netflix on the Roku if you have it set to match the format, because every time you switch to another show it starts the preview which forces a resync. I gladly take the delay from the linker to make sure I am getting the best picture possible.


----------



## inspector

When I first received my 6040, 3D was nothing but ghosting. I started a thread about that and most that suffered that problem, upon getting a new PJ, the problem was alleviated...but not all.


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...on-5040-6040-3d-ghosting-crosstalk-issue.html


3D (over 140 discs collected) on this new projector is perfect and so is 4K (1) thru Harpervision and Oledurts (sp)) calibrations.


I will buy 4K UHDs, only if you can't get the BD unless you get the UHD. BDs look awesome upscaled to 4K.

I don't care about UHD for now, I'm into 3D, 8 years late...better than never!


I'll probably be saying the same thing about 4K in the future!!!


----------



## Baratum

dimi123 said:


> If you don't plan on watching HDR content you can use 60hz refresh rate, 8bpc output color depth and ycbcr420 output color format.


Hi, I tried installing sdr ycbcr420 and 444 for viewing, and I did not see a difference with rgb. I clearly see the difference in the image if I put in nvidia rgb full and the projector hdmi range normal, the colors become much more contrast, black is better, but the details in the shadows disappear. On the test pattern, the black merges, the hdmi range extended shades differ, but the contrast is worse. How correctly should it be?


----------



## Jameshtx

spirithockey79 said:


> Has anyone with the 5040 and Oppo 203 combo tried the new HDR settings in Oppo’s latest beta FW? Interested in which settings are preferred, especially as compared to Harpervision settings. I’m installing the new FW in the morning and will provide my thoughts. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm interested to know about this as well.


----------



## jwhn

Osylvan said:


> Hi, I'm getting ready to mount my 5040 and I have two distances from the screen to choose from. About 15.5 ft and about 21.5 ft. I know that both are within the throw distance available but I'm not sure what is best. Screen is 150" and 1.1 gain. According to projectorscreen.com brightness of 56 fL at 15.5 ft, and 29 fL at 21.5 ft. I have two windows far from the screen that I will be able to mostly black out. The 21.5 ft location is easier and behind the sitting area. I would prefer this, but I can make to other work if it is better. I would really appreciate any recommendation, because I have no idea which spot is best. Thank you.




If you plan on watching HDR content I would suggest the 15' distance to get max lumens.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## viperlogic

My projector is approx 10 ft away from a 104" diag screen. I get 160 nits (47 fL) without cinema filter and 70 nits (20 fL) with cinema filter.


----------



## bswojcik

*Question on "ghosted" backlight output*

New to the forum everyone, but been hanging around for awhile. I just pulled the trigger on the 5040UB for my first HT project. All is coming along well, just got pretty much everything installed, connected and going through testing. However, upon my first projected image I seem to have an issue and I'm not sure if it's related to a setting or a possible projector issue.

I have the projector mounted on a 10' ceiling, room is 15' long x 12 wide', and the projector lens is about 15" from the ceiling and about 11.5' from the screen. After manually adjusting the hang angle of the projector, and then adjusting lens zoom, lens shift and keystoning I can get the test pattern pretty spot on, see pic attached. But when I remove a projected image I'm left with what I can only describe as a kind of ghosted backlight that is pretty much the non-keystone adjusted light output (meaning it is the trapezoidal shape), see second pic attached. It's fairly low in intensity but is noticable. I've run a 4k-bluray (my current personal favorite being John Wick lol) and you can see this ghosted backlight during playback and it's really annoying.

Just wondering if anyone has seen this before and can chime on what this may be and how I can resolve it. Thanks!!


----------



## jwhn

bswojcik said:


> New to the forum everyone, but been hanging around for awhile. I just pulled the trigger on the 5040UB for my first HT project. All is coming along well, just got pretty much everything installed, connected and going through testing. However, upon my first projected image I seem to have an issue and I'm not sure if it's related to a setting or a possible projector issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the projector mounted on a 10' ceiling, room is 15' long x 12 wide', and the projector lens is about 15" from the ceiling and about 11.5' from the screen. After manually adjusting the hang angle of the projector, and then adjusting lens zoom, lens shift and keystoning I can get the test pattern pretty spot on, see pic attached. But when I remove a projected image I'm left with what I can only describe as a kind of ghosted backlight that is pretty much the non-keystone adjusted light output (meaning it is the trapezoidal shape), see second pic attached. It's fairly low in intensity but is noticable. I've run a 4k-bluray (my current personal favorite being John Wick lol) and you can see this ghosted backlight during playback and it's really annoying.
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering if anyone has seen this before and can chime on what this may be and how I can resolve it. Thanks!!




I would avoid using the keystone feature.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

bswojcik said:


> New to the forum everyone, but been hanging around for awhile. I just pulled the trigger on the 5040UB for my first HT project. All is coming along well, just got pretty much everything installed, connected and going through testing. However, upon my first projected image I seem to have an issue and I'm not sure if it's related to a setting or a possible projector issue.
> 
> I have the projector mounted on a 10' ceiling, room is 15' long x 12 wide', and the projector lens is about 15" from the ceiling and about 11.5' from the screen. After manually adjusting the hang angle of the projector, and then adjusting lens zoom, lens shift and keystoning I can get the test pattern pretty spot on, see pic attached. But when I remove a projected image I'm left with what I can only describe as a kind of ghosted backlight that is pretty much the non-keystone adjusted light output (meaning it is the trapezoidal shape), see second pic attached. It's fairly low in intensity but is noticable. I've run a 4k-bluray (my current personal favorite being John Wick lol) and you can see this ghosted backlight during playback and it's really annoying.
> 
> Just wondering if anyone has seen this before and can chime on what this may be and how I can resolve it. Thanks!!


Hello bswojcik,

Welcome to the forum. You may need to reposition the projector to eliminate the keystone, keystone should be set at 0 and is considered an absolute no no to use, unless absolutely necessary, because it causes distortion. I know this because when I first mounted my projector I had to use Keystone, however I moved the projector a few inches back and to the left and it was no longer necessary. My Projector was not centered on my screen, also I believe as a general rule, it should be centered and aimed at the top 1/3 of the screen. Hope this helps, I'm sure others will chime in. Good Luck.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## robc1976

Luís Amaral said:


> In my opinion i have better quality playing in 1080p, anyone have the same quality playing 1080p and 4K with this projector ?


I put in 4K uhd set player to 1080P signal and I get 1080P 12bit HDR and then let epson upscale it to 4K.

Much better picture

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

spirithockey79 said:


> Has anyone with the 5040 and Oppo 203 combo tried the new HDR settings in Oppo’s latest beta FW? Interested in which settings are preferred, especially as compared to Harpervision settings. I’m installing the new FW in the morning and will provide my thoughts. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I have a oppo 203 but left the hdr settings alone. They usually affect black levels in a bad way.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## old corps

robc1976 said:


> I put in 4K uhd set player to 1080P signal and I get 1080P 12bit HDR and then let epson upscale it to 4K.
> 
> Much better picture
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



Pardon my ignorance but I've seen this same thing reported several times and don't know if the 5040 will automatically upscale to 4K if I set the player to 1080p or if there's a setting to enable it to do so. I'd like to try it.
Thanks guys!
Ed


----------



## bswojcik

Azekecse said:


> Welcome to the forum. You may need to reposition the projector to eliminate the keystone, keystone should be set at 0 and is considered an absolute no no to use, unless absolutely necessary, because it causes distortion. I know this because when I first mounted my projector I had to use Keystone, however I moved the projector a few inches back and to the left and it was no longer necessary. My Projector was not centered on my screen, also I believe as a general rule, it should be centered and aimed at the top 1/3 of the screen. Hope this helps, I'm sure others will chime in. Good Luck.
> 
> Azeke


Thanks for the suggestions. I'll certainly see what I can do about lowering the projector as it's really the height difference between the projector lens and the screen height that required the angling of the projector and subsequent keystoning. However I still do have a question. Upon much reading through this thread (among others) I have certainly seen everyone mention that keystoning is bad for picture quality, but does the keystoning really explain the backlighting issue I seem to have?


----------



## Dominic Chan

bswojcik said:


> I've run a 4k-bluray (my current personal favorite being John Wick lol) and you can see this ghosted backlight during playback and it's really annoying.


Not sure if this is "normal", but if you eliminate the keystone the ghosted image will probably not be visible as it will fall within the normal image area.


----------



## robc1976

old corps said:


> Pardon my ignorance but I've seen this same thing reported several times and don't know if the 5040 will automatically upscale to 4K if I set the player to 1080p or if there's a setting to enable it to do so. I'd like to try it.
> Thanks guys!
> Ed


Not all of players will.play 1080p 12 bit HDR but most if not all will play 1080P non HDR but either way go to "image enhancement" tab in menu. Its under the image tab 3/4 way down. Then select 4K upscale. If you are getting a 4K signal this setting is usually grayed out.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Dominic Chan said:


> Not sure if this is "normal", but if you eliminate the keystone the ghosted image will probably not be visible as it will fall within the normal image area.


I noticed this with "auto Iris" turned off. I put mine on high and I get better highlights, better shadow detail and the transition from dark to light scenes are better. It causes a blur when going from dark to light scenes with it off.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Azekecse said:


> Hello bswojcik,
> 
> Welcome to the forum. You may need to reposition the projector to eliminate the keystone, keystone should be set at 0 and is considered an absolute no no to use, unless absolutely necessary, because it causes distortion. I know this because when I first mounted my projector I had to use Keystone, however I moved the projector a few inches back and to the left and it was no longer necessary. My Projector was not centered on my screen, also I believe as a general rule, it should be centered and aimed at the top 1/3 of the screen. Hope this helps, I'm sure others will chime in. Good Luck.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


100% correct, keystone don't ever use.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

old corps said:


> Pardon my ignorance but I've seen this same thing reported several times and don't know if the 5040 will automatically upscale to 4K if I set the player to 1080p or if there's a setting to enable it to do so. I'd like to try it.
> Thanks guys!
> Ed


Also, use preset 2 maybe 3 I find 3 gives a bit if grain to picture...but on games 3 is great.

Also use a test pattern or even texton screen to set sharpness.

Here is how I have gotten the sharpess image.

1. Turn on xbox and go to a menu with text.

2. I literally stand inches from the screen and start hitting the focus button.

3. You will see it get sharper and sharper to the point you can see dots forming. When you go to far the dots start to go way and get blurry, back focus off until they are clear and your done.

This has worked the best for me.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

So do we get OEM bulbs thru Epson? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## akarz

*Linker, Netflix and Shield*

I have been trying this to no avail. Can anyone that has the Shield and Linker share their settings that allows Netlix to recognize and display options for 4k HDR.

I have the Shield set at YUV 422 - 12 bit 2020, and the Linker at Maze's settings, but Netflix still only wants to either do 4K or 1080p HDR, and not 4K HDR. 

Thanks in advance


----------



## Deftec

Deftec said:


> Thanks Juiced46 for taking interest in resolving my issue. My AVR does 4k pass through there is no conversion but will check again this weekend and as suggested I will try to connect directly from Roku & sony BP to Epson and verify if any change happens as it has Ruipro hdmi cable.
> On Roku I have set to 4k uhd 30Hz HDR as it is not recognizing 60Hz and displaying error that HDMI does not support for every cable i tried.


Attached are the proj info from my Roku and Sony player with direct connection to proj using Ruipro Hdmi, looks like proj is receiving only SDR signal, how can i get Color format to HDR? I have set to BT2020 in Advance settings but still cant get the format, should I call CS? 
Also looks like my FW is V1.09 and the latest is V1.11 and can be upgraded only using FAT format, is it a special format?


----------



## aaranddeeman

Deftec said:


> Attached are the proj info from my Roku and Sony player with direct connection to proj using Ruipro Hdmi, looks like proj is receiving only SDR signal, how can i get Color format to HDR? I have set to BT2020 in Advance settings but still cant get the format, should I call CS?
> Also looks like my FW is V1.09 and the latest is V1.11 and can be upgraded only using FAT format, is it a special format?


Could you specify which Roku and which Sony player is this.
Also do not change the color space to BT2020. Leave it at Auto
Make sure you are connecting to HDMI-1 on the projector


----------



## Deftec

aaranddeeman said:


> Could you specify which Roku and which Sony player is this.
> Also do not change the color space to BT2020. Leave it at Auto
> Make sure you are connecting to HDMI-1 on the projector


It Roku Ultra and Sony BDP6700 , i did leave the color format to Auto, the image color was little lighter in color but still there was no change in the Proj info, tried different 4k cables but all show the same info, I am confused what should i change in the settings that can give me HDR image.


----------



## old corps

Thanks for your help Rob, I'll give it a shot next time I have the pj on.


Ed


----------



## ac388

I have the 1.11 FW done on mine, n it did not make a difference on Harpervision, since we are supposed to set the 5040 to SDR.



Jameshtx said:


> I'm interested to know about this as well.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Played a bit of Cloverfield Paradox streamed from Netflix from my Sony X800 to the 5040 and was surprised to see it come through 24 Hz 4K 12 bit HDR, I don't think I've ever seen that happen before from the Sony and the 5040. I'm guessing it's because Netflix provided it in 24 Hz vs 60 Hz but I'll take it! When I watch 4K Netflix streaming from these devices in the past I get 4K but not HDR.


----------



## aaranddeeman

Deftec said:


> It Roku Ultra and Sony BDP6700 , i did leave the color format to Auto, the image color was little lighter in color but still there was no change in the Proj info, tried different 4k cables but all show the same info, I am confused what should i change in the settings that can give me HDR image.


Ok. Your Sony is not a UHD player. So keep that out of this. It will not give you BT2020 and HDR
Roku Ultra I believe should pass HDR. You should find the actual 4kHDR program in one of the channels.

Bottomline, if it's not in source it will not be there.
As for setting set both to Auto (Dynamic range and color space). One source has it it will detect.
By forcing it, you will be messing the SDR picture.


----------



## raf77

aaranddeeman said:


> Ok. Your Sony is not a UHD player. So keep that out of this. It will not give you BT2020 and HDR
> Roku Ultra I believe should pass HDR. You should find the actual 4kHDR program in one of the channels.
> 
> Bottomline, if it's not in source it will not be there.
> As for setting set both to Auto (Dynamic range and color space). One source has it it will detect.
> By forcing it, you will be messing the SDR picture.


No. Chances. Roku 4k and hdr only work on 60Hz from Netflix. This is over Epson transfer limits.


----------



## Azekecse

robc1976 said:


> So do we get OEM bulbs thru Epson?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


That would be safe, but there are other places, B&H Photo comes to mind. Not sure if AVS has them, you may want to check.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

bswojcik said:


> Thanks for the suggestions. I'll certainly see what I can do about lowering the projector as it's really the height difference between the projector lens and the screen height that required the angling of the projector and subsequent keystoning. However I still do have a question. Upon much reading through this thread (among others) I have certainly seen everyone mention that keystoning is bad for picture quality, but does the keystoning really explain the backlighting issue I seem to have?


Just a shot in the dark. You may want to try Harpervision and Oledurt's calibration settings, also try lowering your gamma setting. Hope this helps, perhaps others have some more viable solutions.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## bswojcik

Azekecse said:


> Just a shot in the dark. You may want to try Harpervision and Oledurt's calibration settings, also try lowering your gamma setting. Hope this helps, perhaps others have some more viable solutions.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


To all that were helping me with the "ghosting backlight" issue, many thanks. Just wanted to follow up on the resolution. Turns out it was the keystoning that was the problem. Being a newb, I tilted the projector quite a bit then keystoned instead of just using lens shift. I went back and looked, I had the keystone setting at -35 (near max)... and you can imagine what that did! I did some adjusting last night and my projector height-to-center of screen height was just enough inside the lens shift limit of 96% that I could locate the image correctly with 0 keystoning. Voila that ghost backlight has disappeared!

So in addition to any image distortion that keystoning may cause, if you go way too far with keystoning it can apparently also cause odd backlighting issues. Anyway, I seem to good now... just need to work out my Marantz receiver error codes LOL!


----------



## Luís Amaral

Last night i could watch Dark Knight rises with this pj at 4:4:2 4k 12bits and is wonderful, very good !!!!!! on opposite i downloaded Bladerunner and i prefer see the 1080p version.
The 4K version, i do not know why, but have lower color too much brightness... why in some movies the colors are great but in others are not so good ?


----------



## seplant

Evan201 said:


> I'm getting HDR to pass through Netflix and Amazon as well as Plex app and VUDU using the Nvidia Shield without linker or other hardware. 35' HDMI from mono price.
> 
> With Netflix use recommended settings of 4k / 59hz then do a restart of the shield tv and upon boot up switch over to 4k/24p in the shield HDMI settings.
> 
> Works like a charm from then on. Most of the time I'm setting the Shield to 1080/60hz with 4:2:2 12 Bit BT2020. Looks great and no judder.


There has been lots of conflicting discussion in this forum about getting HDR with Netflix using the Nvidia Shield. Some say it can't be done, others (like Evan201 above) say it works without a linker. 

What is the current consensus? Is anyone currently able to watch Netflix in 4K HDR BT.2020 using a Shield without a Linker on these projectors? I currently have a Roku Premiere+ and can confirm that won't pass Netflix in HDR to these projectors. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## kbarnes701

*Problem with 5040 - will not power on.*


Hi guys,

I went into the HT tonight to watch a movie, powered up the system and the PJ refuses to power up.

There are NO lights lit on the PJ at all. I swapped out the power cable for another, reconnected to another outlet known to be working, attempted to power on the PJ by using the button on the unit itself and also on the remote. Nothing. It is just as though the PJ is not connected to the mains, but the above tests confirm that the cable and mains outlet are not the problem. I then wondered if the unit has a fuse - a user manual PDF search for 'fuse' throws up no results at all and visual inspection of the exterior of the PJ shows no fuse accessible from the outside.

Anyone got any ideas what might be wrong, or anything else to try before I contact my dealer? The unit is less than 1 year old and is under warranty. It was working perfectly last night when I switched off the system after watching my movie.

Thanks in advance,

Keith


----------



## LumensLover

kbarnes701 said:


> *Problem with 5040 - will not power on.*
> 
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I went into the HT tonight to watch a movie, powered up the system and the PJ refuses to power up.
> 
> There are NO lights lit on the PJ at all. I swapped out the power cable for another, reconnected to another outlet known to be working, attempted to power on the PJ by using the button on the unit itself and also on the remote. Nothing. It is just as though the PJ is not connected to the mains, but the above tests confirm that the cable and mains outlet are not the problem. I then wondered if the unit has a fuse - a user manual PDF search for 'fuse' throws up no results at all and visual inspection of the exterior of the PJ shows no fuse accessible from the outside.
> 
> Anyone got any ideas what might be wrong, or anything else to try before I contact my dealer? The unit is less than 1 year old and is under warranty. It was working perfectly last night when I switched off the system after watching my movie.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Keith


It could be a dead power supply which is a common issue with this model. If so, you will have to send it in for warranty repair.


----------



## kbarnes701

LumensLover said:


> It could be a dead power supply which is a common issue with this model. If so, you will have to send it in for warranty repair.


Thanks for the quick reply. That sounds feasible. I didn't know it was a common issue. Looks like a warranty return then. :frown:


----------



## Juiced46

kbarnes701 said:


> Thanks for the quick reply. That sounds feasible. I didn't know it was a common issue. Looks like a warranty return then. :frown:


Call Epson, they will overnight you another unit.


----------



## Lesmor

kbarnes701 said:


> Thanks for the quick reply. That sounds feasible. I didn't know it was a common issue. Looks like a warranty return then. :frown:


But it will probably be a refurb


----------



## Web35

old corps said:


> Pardon my ignorance but I've seen this same thing reported several times and don't know if the 5040 will automatically upscale to 4K if I set the player to 1080p or if there's a setting to enable it to do so. I'd like to try it.
> Thanks guys!
> Ed


According to Courtney of Epson, the 5040ub will only upscale 1080p/*24*. In my tests with the XBOX One S, unless it is playing a blu-ray disc, all of the signals come through as 60 hz and no 5040 upscale. I've tried switching the projector upscaling feature on and off with the 1080p/60hz feed and I see no difference even though the menu says that it is 'enhancing'. I let the XBOX upscale for this reason and I do see a difference in picture quality. I prefer the projector upscaling, but it is only available for the 24hz feed.


----------



## jwhn

seplant said:


> There has been lots of conflicting discussion in this forum about getting HDR with Netflix using the Nvidia Shield. Some say it can't be done, others (like Evan201 above) say it works without a linker.
> 
> What is the current consensus? Is anyone currently able to watch Netflix in 4K HDR BT.2020 using a Shield without a Linker on these projectors? I currently have a Roku Premiere+ and can confirm that won't pass Netflix in HDR to these projectors.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk




No it won't do 4K and HDR at the same time. Only one or the other. When I watch HDR I just let it upscale to 4K. I can't really tell the difference from my viewing distance and don't consider it a big issue. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

jwhn said:


> No it won't do 4K and HDR at the same time. Only one or the other. When I watch HDR I just let it upscale to 4K. I can't really tell the difference from my viewing distance and don't consider it a big issue.


Good to know. Thanks.

I guess the next question is, would I be able to get Netflix 4K HDR BT.2020 from my Roku Premiere+ if I use a Linker?


----------



## jwhn

seplant said:


> Good to know. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess the next question is, would I be able to get Netflix 4K HDR BT.2020 from my Roku Premiere+ if I use a Linker?




Not sure but I do remember someone struggling with trying to do that.

Some UHD players will do this as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Deftec

aaranddeeman said:


> Ok. Your Sony is not a UHD player. So keep that out of this. It will not give you BT2020 and HDR Roku Ultra I believe should pass HDR. You should find the actual 4kHDR program in one of the channels.


The image attached from Roku is from a 4k movie from one of the channel but reading shows still SDR, I hope there is no issue with the projector. I will try to buy 4k player and check it out.:frown:


----------



## aaranddeeman

Deftec said:


> The image attached from Roku is from a 4k movie from one of the channel but reading shows still SDR, I hope there is no issue with the projector. I will try to buy 4k player and check it out.:frown:


Yup. That is your best bet. Make sure to play 4K movie on it though..


----------



## siuengr

seplant said:


> Good to know. Thanks.
> 
> I guess the next question is, would I be able to get Netflix 4K HDR BT.2020 from my Roku Premiere+ if I use a Linker?


Yes, you can get 4K HDR BT.2020 12 bit from the Roku Premire+ with a Linker.


----------



## kbarnes701

Juiced46 said:


> Call Epson, they will overnight you another unit.


Thanks, But I am in the UK, home of rubbish service. I'll try though.


----------



## kbarnes701

Lesmor said:


> But it will probably be a refurb


That's what worries me. The PJ is just over 6 months old. IMO they should replace it with a brand new unit and this is what I will hold out for. It shouldn't break after 6 months and about 350 hours use. The last thing I want is some rubbish old unit that has been all over the country, is lord knows how old, and with no idea of what was wrong with it in the first place. Call me pessimistic, but I can see a struggle ahead (I am in the UK as you know, not in the service-orientated USA unfortunately). We'll see how they handle it when I get in touch.


----------



## xplorar

kbarnes701 said:


> That's what worries me. The PJ is just over 6 months old. IMO they should replace it with a brand new unit and this is what I will hold out for. It shouldn't break after 6 months and about 350 hours use. The last thing I want is some rubbish old unit that has been all over the country, is lord knows how old, and with no idea of what was wrong with it in the first place. Call me pessimistic, but I can see a struggle ahead (I am in the UK as you know, not in the service-orientated USA unfortunately). We'll see how they handle it when I get in touch.


What is the warranty period there? What is projector fails after the warranty period?


----------



## kbarnes701

xplorar said:


> What is the warranty period there? What is projector fails after the warranty period?


The warranty for my unit is 5 years - it was a special deal here in the UK when I bought it. So it has years of warranty to run on it. I think the main issue that concerns people whose units fail early in their life is what they will be given by Epson. IMO when a unit is 6 months old it should be replaced with a new unit if it has a catastrophic failure (like a blown PSU). Other than that, a repair would be reasonable in that one will get back their own unit. And the last choice, for me, would be a refurb of unknown age, quality and provenance.

It is doubly irritating for me as I paid £300 ($415 USD) for a full professional calibration a few months ago, and if the unit is replaced, then that will have to be done again, at my expense. So whatever Epson decides, I am going to be out of pocket.

I am fortunate to have a very good Epson dealership where I bought my unit from and my dealer is taking it up directly with Epson to see what can be done. I'll advise the thread on the outcome as soon as I have some news, which is likely to be the end of this week.


----------



## old corps

Wow, ANOTHER power supply failure with the 5040. There's been quite a few of these reported in this thread and they seem to happen after the pj has been in service for a significant period of time. According to other posters Epson is fully aware of this problem. Hope Epson takes care of you! NOT looking forward to the day that mine won't power up......


Ed


----------



## kbarnes701

old corps said:


> Wow, ANOTHER power supply failure with the 5040. There's been quite a few of these reported in this thread and they seem to happen after the pj has been in service for a significant period of time. According to other posters Epson is fully aware of this problem. Hope Epson takes care of you! NOT looking forward to the day that mine won't power up......
> 
> 
> Ed


Thanks Ed. My dealer is very good fortunately and he is taking it up on my behalf with Epson. Watch this space!


----------



## LumensLover

old corps said:


> Wow, ANOTHER power supply failure with the 5040. There's been quite a few of these reported in this thread and they seem to happen after the pj has been in service for a significant period of time. According to other posters Epson is fully aware of this problem. Hope Epson takes care of you! NOT looking forward to the day that mine won't power up......
> 
> 
> Ed


I was going to purchase another Epson 5040 when I receive my tax refund in a few weeks. However after seeing all of the issues with this projector I'm going to have to stay away from it even though it is a good product. I'd be interested if Epson is coming out with a 5050UB sometime this year. If not, then I'm just going to get the Epson home Cinema 3700 as a temporary projector until better models become available next year.


----------



## xplorar

LumensLover said:


> I was going to purchase another Epson 5040 when I receive my tax return in a few weeks. However after seeing all of the issues with this projector I'm going to have to stay away from it even though it is a good product. I'd be interested if Epson is coming out with a 5050UB sometime this year. If not, then I'm just going to get the Epson home Cinema 3700 as a temporary projector until better models become available next year.


Same here. I chose BenQ HT2050 as my temporary projector. However I think we have a long wait ahead. Even after a new model is introduced by Epson, it will take around 6 more months for consumers to determine model's problems.


----------



## WynsWrld98

kbarnes701 said:


> The warranty for my unit is 5 years - it was a special deal here in the UK when I bought it. So it has years of warranty to run on it. I think the main issue that concerns people whose units fail early in their life is what they will be given by Epson. IMO when a unit is 6 months old it should be replaced with a new unit if it has a catastrophic failure (like a blown PSU). Other than that, a repair would be reasonable in that one will get back their own unit. And the last choice, for me, would be a refurb of unknown age, quality and provenance.
> 
> It is doubly irritating for me as I paid £300 ($415 USD) for a full professional calibration a few months ago, and if the unit is replaced, then that will have to be done again, at my expense. So whatever Epson decides, I am going to be out of pocket.
> 
> I am fortunate to have a very good Epson dealership where I bought my unit from and my dealer is taking it up directly with Epson to see what can be done. I'll advise the thread on the outcome as soon as I have some news, which is likely to be the end of this week.


I'm not sure how things work in the U.K. but in the past I know Epson has given a choice of repairing your own unit or send a replacement. I highly recommend finding out if they will let your unit be repaired so you don't get the possibility of a refurb with undiagnosed issues and don't lose your professional calibration.


----------



## dholmes54

How difficult would it be to put in a new power supply yourself,im a little handy but doing it yourself would be better than a used projector.


----------



## LumensLover

It seems that dead power supplies amongst other issues with the Epson 5040 is getting to the same level as Onkyo with dead HDMI boards. This is very sad.


----------



## kbarnes701

dholmes54 said:


> How difficult would it be to put in a new power supply yourself,im a little handy but doing it yourself would be better than a used projector.


Pretty easy I expect. But the warranty is invalidated if you open the unit since it has 'no user serviceable parts inside'. The lamp is reached via a special 'hatch' on the side.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs,I think it would be better just having are projectors repaired by Epson instead of them sending us a used one overnight,I would hate waiting but I think it would be better than getting one with 1800 hrs on it and yours only has 500-600 on it.


----------



## kbarnes701

dholmes54 said:


> Thxs,I think it would be better just having are projectors repaired by Epson instead of them sending us a used one overnight,I would hate waiting but I think it would be better than getting one with 1800 hrs on it and yours only has 500-600 on it.


Ah yes. But I am not getting one with 1800 hours on it 

Mine only has about 350 hours on it in fact, which is why I was surprised when it broke.

My dealer and Epson have worked together on a solution which satisfies me and which means I will only be without my HT for a few days instead of however long it would take for a repair. Given I usually watch a movie every day, that's important to me but others may find YMMV rules of course.

Unfortunately, I am not at liberty to disclose the solution offered, but trust me when I say I am totally happy with it.


----------



## kbarnes701

LumensLover said:


> It seems that dead power supplies amongst other issues with the Epson 5040 is getting to the same level as Onkyo with dead HDMI boards. This is very sad.


I think that's an exaggeration. In the UK I am apparently the only person whose unit has failed (and the Epsons are very popular over here due to very good pricing and a very reliable dealer network).

TBH I expect things to go wrong sometimes. It's just life. It's a bummer when it happens, but things go wrong all the time - flights get delayed, cars break down, road repairs take twice as long as anticipated, even our own bodies fail sometimes. For me, it's not so much that something has gone wrong, but how it was put right. In this case, my dealer and Epson have delivered a 100% solution for me and I am happy. Would I have been even happier if the unit hadn't failed? Of course I would. But it's unrealistic to expect everything to go right 100% of the time.


----------



## sddp

xplorar said:


> What is the warranty period there? What is projector fails after the warranty period?


FYI most credit cards, like Amex add another year of warranty.
But hearing so much of this failing units and mind you for every one person that mentions it on this site means there probably 10 others not on the net/forums with the same issue. So yes it's a BIG issue.

I kind of wish I bought best Buys 5 year extended warranty and on an amex, I would have 6 years of worry free. With best buy geek squad warranty they usually just give you a new on right there on the spot.


----------



## gene4ht

kbarnes701 said:


> I think that's an exaggeration. In the UK I am apparently the only person whose unit has failed (and the Epsons are very popular over here due to very good pricing and a very reliable dealer network).
> 
> TBH I expect things to go wrong sometimes. It's just life. It's a bummer when it happens, but things go wrong all the time - flights get delayed, cars break down, road repairs take twice as long as anticipated, even our own bodies fail sometimes. For me, it's not so much that something has gone wrong, but how it was put right. In this case, my dealer and Epson have delivered a 100% solution for me and I am happy. Would I have been even happier if the unit hadn't failed? Of course I would. But it's unrealistic to expect everything to go right 100% of the time.


Glad Epson has earned your satisfaction! And it's unfortunate that Onkyo took so much heat (no pun intended) but as you suggested...Onkyo's extended warranty program substantially made affected owners whole...a truer picture of what defines a company.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

good to know they improved the HDR on 1.11. will upgrade today & play Blade Runner 2049.


----------



## anwar79

Well my projector decided not to turn on today as well. 6 months old with about 400 hours. 

Called Epson and was quickly told they will send another unit. I asked if it would be a refurbished unit and was told they were unsure. Seems like this thing can go out at any time.


----------



## LumensLover

anwar79 said:


> Well my projector decided not to turn on today as well. 6 months old with about 400 hours.
> 
> Called Epson and was quickly told they will send another unit. I asked if it would be a refurbished unit and was told they were unsure. Seems like this thing can go out at any time.


Very sorry to hear this.


----------



## roland6465

anwar79 said:


> Well my projector decided not to turn on today as well. 6 months old with about 400 hours.
> 
> Called Epson and was quickly told they will send another unit. I asked if it would be a refurbished unit and was told they were unsure. Seems like this thing can go out at any time.


Oh, it'll be a refurb. Hopefully it will be my first one that was beautiful- until the power supply failed. My refurb#3 is humming along after 22 hours. It seems to be all in line. I calibrated it using Oledurt's settings and then tuning to my eye, and I have enjoyed great looking 4K, HDR, upscale DVD, Blu-ra, and unconverted DirecTV. I'll give it another tweak at 50 hours.


----------



## old corps

anwar79 said:


> Well my projector decided not to turn on today as well. 6 months old with about 400 hours.
> 
> Called Epson and was quickly told they will send another unit. I asked if it would be a refurbished unit and was told they were unsure. Seems like this thing can go out at any time.


 
VERY sorry here as well.  Hope your replacement performs and lasts forever!


Ed


----------



## mrbeezly

I am able to get 4k HDR content from the Shield TV with Netflix to my projector. I have the shield TV, yamaha 2060 receiver and the Epson 5040. I have the shield TV set to 4k 23hz. It's buggy sometimes and will only show 1080p, no 4k indicator in Netflix. I had to wipe all data in the Netflix app and now have 4k HDR back. I also get 4k HDR from Amazon Prime and Plex add on in Kodi for 4k Atmos rips.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

ana_moo_ana said:


> good to know they improved the HDR on 1.11. will upgrade today & play Blade Runner 2049.




Ok, this was BRIGHT! maybe too bright actually.


----------



## astewart415

kbarnes701 said:


> Thanks for the quick reply. That sounds feasible. I didn't know it was a common issue. Looks like a warranty return then. :frown:


Mine died a few days ago with less than 100 hours. Customer service was good. Yes, they overnighted a refurb. Seems to be working well. Hopefully they will figure out the power supply issue.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## astewart415

jwhn said:


> No it won't do 4K and HDR at the same time. Only one or the other. When I watch HDR I just let it upscale to 4K. I can't really tell the difference from my viewing distance and don't consider it a big issue.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ditto on this one. One or the other. I run it the same way and cannot tell difference between 1080p upscaled and native 4k and I'm 10ft from a 115" Cinemascope screen. I love the Shield, it's a beast. You could end up burning away precious hours of your life trying to get one of those Linkers to work perfectly. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

mrbeezly said:


> I am able to get 4k HDR content from the Shield TV with Netflix to my projector. I have the shield TV, yamaha 2060 receiver and the Epson 5040. I have the shield TV set to 4k 23hz. It's buggy sometimes and will only show 1080p, no 4k indicator in Netflix. I had to wipe all data in the Netflix app and now have 4k HDR back. I also get 4k HDR from Amazon Prime and Plex add on in Kodi for 4k Atmos rips.



Hmm... that makes you the only one I have heard of that gets 4K and HDR together on Netflix with the shield. You see both the UHD and HDR indicators in the programming menu right? 

What version of the Netflix app are you using? What version of the Shield software?

And is the setting 23.976hz or 23hz?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mrdh68

I have a Zidoo X10 and some 4K HDR movies (images in background such as sky, foggy scenes, or one colour variation) present banding effect. That don't happen with Bluray FHD but with UHD HDR. Does anyone has an idea to fix this? Thanks


----------



## Luís Amaral

How can we know if we are seeing on PJ movies that have HDR ?


----------



## roland6465

Luís Amaral said:


> How can we know if we are seeing on PJ movies that have HDR ?


If you have your color space set to Auto or Auto(Bright), go into the pj menu, go to info-->projector info, and it will show you the signal info.


----------



## Jcniper

old corps said:


> Wow, ANOTHER power supply failure with the 5040. There's been quite a few of these reported in this thread and they seem to happen after the pj has been in service for a significant period of time. According to other posters Epson is fully aware of this problem. Hope Epson takes care of you! NOT looking forward to the day that mine won't power up......
> 
> 
> Ed


My 5040 power supply went within the first 4 months and it was replaced with a brand new unit. The replacement unit power supply also went within a month. When I called Epson to complain and insist on getting a another brand new unit, I was told that there is a problem with the chipset and the power supply. I was told that it was better to take a refurbished unit because they have rectified the issue with the chipset. I was told I would probably get another bad unit if they sent me a brand new one, being that they are sitting on a shelve in a warehouse with the unmodified chipset. So I took a refurbished model, and it's been all good( fingers crossed).


----------



## Jcniper

old corps said:


> Wow, ANOTHER power supply failure with the 5040. There's been quite a few of these reported in this thread and they seem to happen after the pj has been in service for a significant period of time. According to other posters Epson is fully aware of this problem. Hope Epson takes care of you! NOT looking forward to the day that mine won't power up......
> 
> 
> Ed


My 5040 power supply went within the first 4 months and it was replaced with a brand new unit. The replacement unit power supply also went within a month. When I called Epson to complain and insist on getting a another brand new unit, I was told that there is a problem with the chipset and the power supply. I was told that it was better to take a refurbished unit because they have rectified the issue with the chipset. I was told I would probably get another bad unit if they sent me a brand new one, being that they are sitting on a shelve in a warehouse with the unmodified chipset. So I took a refurbished model, and it's been all good( fingers crossed).


----------



## Luís Amaral

roland6465 said:


> If you have your color space set to Auto or Auto(Bright), go into the pj menu, go to info-->projector info, and it will show you the signal info.


Says Bt020 HDR 4:4:2 12 bits 

All UHD blu-ray have HDR ?


----------



## mrdh68

Lu?s Amaral said:


> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you have your color space set to Auto or Auto(Bright), go into the pj menu, go to info-->projector info, and it will show you the signal info.
> 
> 
> 
> Says Bt020 HDR 4:4:2 12 bits
> 
> All UHD bleary have HDR ?
Click to expand...

Mine shows the same! Still I have banding effect. I don't know yet if it is the projector, the HDMI cable or the zidoo player...


----------



## astewart415

Jcniper said:


> My 5040 power supply went within the first 4 months and it was replaced with a brand new unit. The replacement unit power supply also went within a month. When I called Epson to complain and insist on getting a another brand new unit, I was told that there is a problem with the chipset and the power supply. I was told that it was better to take a refurbished unit because they have rectified the issue with the chipset. I was told I would probably get another bad unit if they sent me a brand new one, being that they are sitting on a shelve in a warehouse with the unmodified chipset. So I took a refurbished model, and it's been all good( fingers crossed).


This was actually my thinking on getting a refurb, vs a new one. Hopefully the one they sent me already had the power supply replaced.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## ht guy

spirithockey79 said:


> Has anyone with the 5040 and Oppo 203 combo tried the new HDR settings in Oppo’s latest beta FW? Interested in which settings are preferred, especially as compared to Harpervision settings. I’m installing the new FW in the morning and will provide my thoughts. Thanks!


I'm not using HV, but also very curious. JVC users are talking about it being way better than the prior best solution, so thinking we should also see a big improvement. And it will be interesting to compare to the 1.11 Epson HDR update.

Guessing this means I'll need a re-calibration, but would like to see what others think/are doing.

Any other Oppo/5040/6040 users using the new Oppo firmware that provides 4 new non-HDR profiles?


----------



## WynsWrld98

astewart415 said:


> This was actually my thinking on getting a refurb, vs a new one. Hopefully the one they sent me already had the power supply replaced.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


Does anyone know if Epson will still let you send in your unit for a repair vs. doing the swap program?


----------



## ayrton

ht guy said:


> I'm not using HV, but also very curious. JVC users are talking about it being way better than the prior best solution, so thinking we should also see a big improvement. And it will be interesting to compare to the 1.11 Epson HDR update.
> 
> Guessing this means I'll need a re-calibration, but would like to see what others think/are doing.
> 
> Any other Oppo/5040/6040 users using the new Oppo firmware that provides 4 new non-HDR profiles?


I was holding off, but think I will give it a try.. 

ht guy: Thanks for posting all the "Good" settings for the 5040!


----------



## WynsWrld98

For anyone with a 5040/6040 and Dish Network (Hopper 3) are you getting the Olympics on Channel 540 in 4K? I can't even get Channel 540 to show up in the Guide, not sure if issue with Hopper or 5040/6040 being faux 4K or what. Did a chat with Dish and they say they see it on their equipment. So I'd like confirmation other 5040/6040 owners with Dish are getting it in 4K on their projector before setting up a service call. I went direct from Hopper to 5040 with same HDMI cable that works fine for my UHD player in 4K and Channel 540 still doesn't show up, wasn't sure if it only shows up if it detects the display device is 4K.

Update: they figured out I'm not getting it because I'm on their Flex Pack, it requires America's Top 120 channel package or above. So wanted to post here in case this happens to anyone else. How ridiculous!

I didn't know the 5040 would do 4K HDR at 60 Hz (I thought only 24 Hz) but I do notice it's 8 bit (see attachment from me finally getting the Olympics in 4K out of the Hopper).


----------



## LumensLover

kbarnes701 said:


> I think that's an exaggeration. In the UK I am apparently the only person whose unit has failed (and the Epsons are very popular over here due to very good pricing and a very reliable dealer network).
> 
> TBH I expect things to go wrong sometimes. It's just life. It's a bummer when it happens, but things go wrong all the time - flights get delayed, cars break down, road repairs take twice as long as anticipated, even our own bodies fail sometimes. For me, it's not so much that something has gone wrong, but how it was put right. In this case, my dealer and Epson have delivered a 100% solution for me and I am happy. Would I have been even happier if the unit hadn't failed? Of course I would. But it's unrealistic to expect everything to go right 100% of the time.


An exaggeration you say? I don't think you've been reading Epson 5040ub reviews and owner's threads online. I also don't think you've read any of the major forums such as AV forum in Europe and the AVS forum primarily here and United States. Also, just because you get another unit does not mean your problems are over with Epson. Many people are having repeated problems after they get other 5040 replacements back. And if you get a new unit. That is just starting the process all over again because the new units have the faulty chipsets and faulty power supplies.

This is one online review for the Epson 5040UB:


"5 stars on picture, 4 stars customer service, 1 star on quality. The fact I used it for 6 weeks under less use than I would a normal TV in a nice cool room before it failed, I cannot give it a full 5 stars overall. I have to take yet another day off of work (in addition to the many days I took off of work receiving all my other home theater items) to receive the replacement. Also, they are sending me a refurbished unit in trade of my 6 week old unit and I've had bad experiences with other refurbished products with disgusting animal hair, human hair, scratches, filth on them. I hate getting something older and used when I paid for brand new. I would understand if it was a year old, but 6 weeks? It hasn't even had time to let dust settle on it. I wasn't happy with the $2,000.00 hold on my charge card when I am going on vacation a few days after my replacement is due to arrive. Otherwise, their customer service is OK. They're sending a refurbished one right away. Today is Thursday and they say I'll have the replacement by Monday or Tuesday. However it's going to be a long weekend having to watch my tiny 65" LCD (be forewarned, this thing will make you feel like every other TV in your house is a computer monitor) As far as the picture. I sit roughly 13 feet from a 120" projection in a fully light managed room, onto a ceiling paint screen, and I cannot see the pixels. The quality and color is as good, if not better than a theater. It's a nice looking unit and easily ceiling mounted. It's pretty quiet when in the 2 low power consumption modes. The 3rd mode with unfettered power consumption is pretty loud without much benefit. It's just a hair brighter. HDR isn’t that great on this unit because it’s not bright enough and really makes the image difficult to watch. It’s kind of like an iPad with the brightness turned way down. I prefer watching without HDR. The motorized lens shifting is great. It has a lot of range shifting up/down/left/right and can adjust/compensate for not being perfectly level with its lense adjustments. All in all, great picture for the money but I have never had something in this price range just [email protected] out before, ever (add to that, it’s failed multiple times). I hope this isn't an indication of the remainder of my 2 year warranty (update, looks like it will be). That being said, (edit here, I once said “go ahead and buy the unit, now I’m not so sure). Maybe you'll never have an issue and I usually never do. It seems others have reliable units. I guess my luck just ran out. Update: Received my REFURBISHED unit and the picture it is projecting is unacceptable. When I pulled it from the box the lens shutter was open! I was assured that the refurbished units went through many quality tests before they are sent out. I went through all possible color adjustments and it's still projecting red in one of the corners. I've had it with this. I've been trying to get my home theater in working order for 7 weeks now and if it's not one thing it's another and this is just one more thing to irritate me. I just want to watch a movie in my finished theater and I'll be going onto the 3rd unit. I got a NEW unit overnight and all is well for now. I would have given this unit 5 stars had I not had to return 2 units within 7 weeks and make arrangements to receive a replacement unit twice during my working hours, having to disconnect and remount multiple times, make phone calls and go through the usual routine of plugging cables in various components and sources only to finally have an American get on the phone after 45 minutes, take 1 look at the picture I sent and say "Yeah that's a bad unit". At that time I asked to be sent a new unit and he said he would try. He delivered on my request for a new one so that made me happier. So time will tell. Maybe I'll get through the rest of my 2 year warranty without an issue. ANOTHER UPDATE! My NEW unit that I received in mid June succumbed to the same failure as the first projector."


----------



## kbarnes701

LumensLover said:


> An exaggeration you say? I don't think you've been reading Epson 5040ub reviews and owner's threads online.


The exaggeration was comparing it with the Onkyo HDMI board failure, which affected vurtually every machine and went on for almost 3 years.



LumensLover said:


> I also don't think you've read and any of the major forums such as AV forum in Europe and the AVS forum primarily here and United States. Also, just because you get another unit does not mean your problems are over with Epson. Many people are having repeated problems after they get other 5040 replacements back. And if you get a new unit. That is just starting the process all over again because the new units have the faulty chipsets and faulty power supplies.


Yes, that is certainly a possibility. I'll have to cross that bridge if or when I come to it.


----------



## gnoid

*New 5040ub*

Well, I picked up a 5040UB on Thursday.
I have it setup with a 120 inch generic fixed screen and the image is sensational.

A few months ago I got a 55 inch lg oled B7 and was entranced by that.
The Epson image at 120 inches is just as impressive.

I have a basement theatre that is setup for projector and flat panel.
I have to say that from now on I am going to be watching the Epson for movies and netflix.

I hope the power supply lasts.
I should add that I bought the Epson from a retailer that usually tries to sell an extended warranty on everything.
In the Epson transaction there was no effort to sell the extended warranty. That could be a a bad thing.

Thanks all for the wealth of information on this thread.


----------



## kbarnes701

gnoid said:


> I should add that I bought the Epson from a retailer that usually tries to sell an extended warranty on everything.
> In the Epson transaction there was no effort to sell the extended warranty. That could be a a bad thing.


It could be, or it could be a red herring. Extended warranties are usually provided through independent insurers so it wouldn't really matter to a manufacturer what the takeup might be.

Here in the UK for example, Epson were (maybe still are) offering a 5 year warranty on these PJs. Of course, if they've suddenly stopped offering this, cynics could read much into that  I suspect it may have been an introductory offer for early adopters though.


----------



## jwhn

ana_moo_ana said:


> Ok, this was BRIGHT! maybe too bright actually.



Yes, too bright. Especially for content mastered to 4000 nits. I believe that Bladerunner movie you watched was mastered to 10,000 nits so I'm sure it was very bright. This new setting will tend to clip / crush the whites pretty badly unless you take drastic steps to prevent it.

The meeting at Epson probably went as follows:

Business leader: are we still getting all those complaints about a dark HDR picture?

Customer service: Yep

Business leader: engineering, what can we do?

Engineering: Well, we could increase the brightness.

Business leader: Will that result in a better HDR picture?

Engineering: no, not really, but it will be brighter.

Business leader: Well if it will stop them damn calls let's do it.

Engineering: okay.

I'm just kidding. I'm sure they are doing their best given there are no real standards for HDR for projectors. 

It does seem to be a bit of an extreme solution though. It can probably work pretty well for content mastered on 1000 nit monitors but for content mastered at 4000 nits it will crush the highlights, unless I drop the contrast to 11 or so.

At least that's been my experience with it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mckracken88

Are you people not bothered by the noise (fan) when watching HDR? I mean in 3d you have no choice, but HDR has rather little benefit to the image quality. Also don't like the oversatured colors. It looks gaudy.


----------



## ht guy

spirithockey79 said:


> Has anyone with the 5040 and Oppo 203 combo tried the new HDR settings in Oppo’s latest beta FW? Interested in which settings are preferred, especially as compared to Harpervision settings. I’m installing the new FW in the morning and will provide my thoughts. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





ht guy said:


> I'm not using HV, but also very curious. JVC users are talking about it being way better than the prior best solution, so thinking we should also see a big improvement. And it will be interesting to compare to the 1.11 Epson HDR update.
> 
> Guessing this means I'll need a re-calibration, but would like to see what others think/are doing.
> 
> Any other Oppo/5040/6040 users using the new Oppo firmware that provides 4 new non-HDR profiles?


Somewhat surprised no one else here is using an Oppo with their 5040/6040 and reporting on the new profiles.

It looks like the JVC projector folks are all over it.


----------



## roland6465

mckracken88 said:


> Are you people not bothered by the noise (fan) when watching HDR? I mean in 3d you have no choice, but HDR has rather little benefit to the image quality. Also don't like the oversatured colors. It looks gaudy.


It's your settings. I get great looking HDR in Eco mode. Search this thread for Oledurt's settings, use that as a baseline, and tweak to your eye. This projector is capable of a great picture (if it turns on).


----------



## dholmes54

Has anyone got hundreds of hrs 500-600 plus on the Epson projector without power failure? Mine is the 6040 which is the same projector as the 5040 except its black & comes with a extra bulb & more warranty so I'm sure power failures affects the 6040.


----------



## carp

dholmes54 said:


> Has anyone got hundreds of hrs 500-600 plus on the Epson projector without power failure? Mine is the 6040 which is the same projector as the 5040 except its black & comes with a extra bulb & more warranty so I'm sure power failures affects the 6040.


No problems yet for me, I'm around 1300 hours.


----------



## smilingangel

dholmes54 said:


> Has anyone got hundreds of hrs 500-600 plus on the Epson projector without power failure? Mine is the 6040 which is the same projector as the 5040 except its black & comes with a extra bulb & more warranty so I'm sure power failures affects the 6040.


Our 6040 had to be replaced with about 30 hours on it. The replacement was quick and easy, at this point I'm kind of glad that we ended up with a refurb and hopefully problem free one. We've got about 60 hours now on this one and nary a hiccup with it.


----------



## ayrton

dholmes54 said:


> Has anyone got hundreds of hrs 500-600 plus on the Epson projector without power failure? Mine is the 6040 which is the same projector as the 5040 except its black & comes with a extra bulb & more warranty so I'm sure power failures affects the 6040.


I think they had a "run" of bad power supplies. I bought mine over a year ago and haven't heard about the problem until about 6 months ago..

How old is your 6040?? 

With that being said, mine will probably blow tonight..


----------



## hnupe

dholmes54 said:


> Has anyone got hundreds of hrs 500-600 plus on the Epson projector without power failure? Mine is the 6040 which is the same projector as the 5040 except its black & comes with a extra bulb & more warranty so I'm sure power failures affects the 6040.


No problems yet. I have several hundred hours on it....Fingers crossed. I do have the four year Best Buy warranty and a new bulb for when it needs replaced.


----------



## hnupe

*OPPO UDP-203 question? Thoughts please.*

I currently have the Sony ubp-x800, however I keep hearing about the OPPO UDP-203...is it worth spending $500 plus dollars on a new 4k player? Does it look that much better on the 5040ub?

Thanks


----------



## gene4ht

ayrton said:


> *I think they had a "run" of bad power supplies. *I bought mine over a year ago and haven't heard about the problem until about 6 months ago..
> 
> How old is your 6040??
> 
> With that being said, mine will probably blow tonight..


That's a possibility...as my 5040 is just over a year old as well...although only 160 lamp hours...no issues. There is only the question of high fan speed at power up and none at power down...hasn't changed since day 1. An Epson tech support rep I spoke with was unable to provide a logical explanation of this peculiar "counter intuitive" fan behavior. Regardless, I choose to remain overall optimistic about the 5040/6040


----------



## reechings

gene4ht said:


> That's a possibility...as my 5040 is just over a year old as well...although only 160 lamp hours...no issues. There is only the question of high fan speed at power up and none at power down...hasn't changed since day 1. An Epson tcch support rep I spoke with was unable to provide a logical explanation of this peculiar "counter intuitive" fan behavior. Regardless, I choose to remain overall optimistic about the 5040/6040


Seems to be an Epson thing which still doesn't make sense to me. My 3100 does the exact same thing but only about every 3 times or so when I power on.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

hnupe said:


> I currently have the Sony ubp-x800, however I keep hearing about the OPPO UDP-203...is it worth spending $500 plus dollars on a new 4k player? * Does it look that much better* on the 5040ub?
> 
> Thanks


I have three UHD players...including the 203...each has advantages and disadvantages. From a pure image quality perspective, one would be hard pressed to say one was substantially better than the other...4K and upscaled 4K look very good...period. The differences are in feature sets, operational speed, perceived build quality, and support longevity. Oppo has always enjoyed a stellar reputation. IMO, the extra dollars buys the extras...not a corresponding improvement in image quality. In the end, it comes down to what features one needs/wants, personal preference, and budget.


----------



## aaranddeeman

hnupe said:


> I currently have the Sony ubp-x800, however I keep hearing about the OPPO UDP-203...is it worth spending $500 plus dollars on a new 4k player? Does it look that much better on the 5040ub?
> 
> Thanks


Unless you have any issue with Sony, (which already is supposed to be good), I don't think it's worth spending $500 more to get the same PQ. For other features (and if you need them), it's a different story.


----------



## ht guy

*5040/6040 AVS User Settings Summary*

Someone pm'd me that the link was broken, but it looks like it's still here (in case anyone else was looking for it.)

...and please don't thank me, thank oledurt, Dave Harper and everyone else who shared their settings/knowledge. I just summarized it and decided to share (once I had done the work of creating the summary.)

Enjoy...


----------



## bullpuss

ayrton said:


> I think they had a "run" of bad power supplies. I bought mine over a year ago and haven't heard about the problem until about 6 months ago..
> 
> How old is your 6040??
> 
> With that being said, mine will probably blow tonight..


*I think that's the problem...because i have almost a 1000 hours on mine, and i swear it looks better each time i watch it with no power issue. I bought mine from AVScince October of 2016.*


----------



## old corps

I experienced the "high fan on startup thingee" for the first time tonight. PJ is right at 200 hours & has never done this before. I'd seen the posts re. this so I wasn't shocked but being paranoid can't help if this means the "NO power on startup thingee" is next. Really seemed forever before it quit blowing and actually lit up. Was thinking this was going to be refurb lottery time--not yet anyway. Really strange that this happens on startup rather than shut down. Makes zero sense.


Ed


----------



## gene4ht

old corps said:


> I experienced the "high fan on startup thingee" for the first time tonight. PJ is right at 200 hours & has never done this before. I'd seen the posts re. this so I wasn't shocked but being paranoid can't help if this means the "NO power on startup thingee" is next. *Really seemed forever before it quit blowing and actually lit up.* Was thinking this was going to be refurb lottery time--not yet anyway. Really strange that this happens on startup rather than shut down. Makes zero sense.
> 
> 
> Ed


Yep...this is exactly how my unit behaves...been doing it periodically for a year now. I too was paranoid initially but I've gotten used to it. And it does seem like forever before the fan stops blowing and the lamp lights. It totally defies logic as it doesn't make sense to cool a cold lamp and not cool a hot lamp. As I mentioned previously, I placed a call to Epson support for a plausible explanation but none was offered. Other than this odd behavior, my 5040 has been performing flawlessly.


----------



## terminal33

mrbeezly said:


> I am able to get 4k HDR content from the Shield TV with Netflix to my projector. I have the shield TV, yamaha 2060 receiver and the Epson 5040. I have the shield TV set to 4k 23hz. It's buggy sometimes and will only show 1080p, no 4k indicator in Netflix. I had to wipe all data in the Netflix app and now have 4k HDR back. I also get 4k HDR from Amazon Prime and Plex add on in Kodi for 4k Atmos rips.


I have the Shield as well and I think it's actually 1080p HDR that we're getting. The projector will read it as 4K because I think the Shield is upscaling it.


----------



## rupedogg24

2500 hours on my lamp and it went out. Had to order a new one. Sucks. Thought I would get more hours it of it. 

Anyone else Havre this happen to them? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

rupedogg24 said:


> 2500 hours on my lamp and it went out. Had to order a new one. Sucks. Thought I would get more hours it of it.
> 
> Anyone else Havre this happen to them?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Did you order your bulb thru Epson, just curious. I am about to order one

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

carp said:


> No problems yet for me, I'm around 1300 hours.


700 hours here, but this is my 3rd one.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

dholmes54 said:


> Has anyone got hundreds of hrs 500-600 plus on the Epson projector without power failure? Mine is the 6040 which is the same projector as the 5040 except its black & comes with a extra bulb & more warranty so I'm sure power failures affects the 6040.


My original 6040's power supply died after 9 months and about 300 hours.

Refurb #1 arrived with a stuck focus ring, and a new ticket opened that day.

Refurb #2 arrived with a bluish/gray blob on the right side of the screen. Initially, it only appeared when no signal was fed, but after about a month, started showing through on dark scenes of programming.

Refurb #3 has about 20 hours on it, and is satisfactory so far. Hopefully it will stay that way.


----------



## rupedogg24

robc1976 said:


> Did you order your bulb thru Epson, just curious. I am about to order one
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I tried to while on with tech support but they said I had to go through a certified retailer. I found an Epson Manufacturer replacement on Amazon. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## mrbeezly

*Correction*



terminal33 said:


> I have the Shield as well and I think it's actually 1080p HDR that we're getting. The projector will read it as 4K because I think the Shield is upscaling it.


You guys are correct. With Netflix on the shield its either 4k or HDR but not both. Additionally, there are Atmos enabled titles and the Netflix app only allows Dolby Digital. I hooked up a keyboard to the sheild tv usb port and hit F4 and it shows the resolution of the stream, confirming 1080p. 

I also have a Sony UBP X800 and am able to stream 4k HDR from Netflix (Altered Carbon last night) and it looks stunning. There is still the Dolby Digital (no Atmos) issue, however the video looked amazing. 

I have a Sony XBR55X850D - the Netflix app on this TV also only shows HDR in the description of the title, however by hitting "display" once the video starts, you can see the video switch from 1080 to 2160, part of the confusion I was getting with the Shield. The indicator in the title description looks the same, but the Shield never increases resolution to 2160.

I really wish Netflix would get it together and fix these issues as well as the Atmos limitations. 

Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## dholmes54

Thxs everyone I was hoping not everyone was having problems,my Epson doesn't have many hrs on due to my health problems,good luck everyone!


----------



## adkrauss

Jcniper said:


> My 5040 power supply went within the first 4 months and it was replaced with a brand new unit. The replacement unit power supply also went within a month. When I called Epson to complain and insist on getting a another brand new unit, I was told that there is a problem with the chipset and the power supply. I was told that it was better to take a refurbished unit because they have rectified the issue with the chipset. I was told I would probably get another bad unit if they sent me a brand new one, being that they are sitting on a shelve in a warehouse with the unmodified chipset. So I took a refurbished model, and it's been all good( fingers crossed).


Jcniper - When did you buy your initial 5040, which as you say, had power supply failure after 4 months?


----------



## kbarnes701

I have posted a poll thread here:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...k-power-supply-failure-rate.html#post55678542

Owners might wish to complete the anonymous poll (just 2 questions) so that we can get an idea of what percentage of owners in this thread have experienced power supply failures. This may give us an idea of how common the failure is. There are quite a few reports of power supplies failing, but it is impossible to tell from the thread how many individual owners have experienced this particular problem with their 5040/6040 (9300 in the UK).

I am happy to submit the poll findings directly to Epson. Thanks!

EDIT: if the owner of this thread can add the poll here, I'll delete the other thread.


----------



## adkrauss

kbarnes701 said:


> I have posted a poll thread here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...k-power-supply-failure-rate.html#post55678542
> 
> Owners might wish to complete the anonymous poll (just 2 questions) so that we can get an idea of what percentage of owners in this thread have experienced power supply failures. This may give us an idea of how common the failure is. There are quite a few reports of power supplies failing, but it is impossible to tell from the thread how many individual owners have experienced this particular problem with their 5040/6040 (9300 in the UK).
> 
> I am happy to submit the poll findings directly to Epson. Thanks!
> 
> EDIT: if the owner of this thread can add the poll here, I'll delete the other thread.


I think a poll is a great idea and sorely needed. I bought a 5010e a while back and the motherboard ($1,000 fix) went approx. year out of warranty. Epson was completely unapologetic and left me with a large paper weight. I am currently researching new projector and although not sure I would ever buy another Epson, this power supply issue is probably enough to nail the Epson coffin for me.


----------



## dholmes54

Thousand to fix,should cost a 3rd of that,thats how you keep repeat customers!


----------



## adkrauss

dholmes54 said:


> Thousand to fix,should cost a 3rd of that,thats how you keep repeat customers!


Agreed, or at least an offer of some amends from Epson. As I have mentioned in other posts, the year prior, I had the motherboard go on my Hayward Auto Salt Chlorinator System for my pool which was like a $400-500 part on a $1,200 product. It was like 8 months out of warranty. That unit sits outside exposed to the elements all year round in the northeast weather. Long story short, Hayward agreed to send me the part for free (not a refurbished unit) and my pool tech installed it. And guess what, I have continued to purchase Hayward pumps, sand filters, etc. Epson could take a lesson from Hayward...


----------



## adkrauss

kbarnes701 said:


> I have posted a poll thread here:
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...k-power-supply-failure-rate.html#post55678542
> 
> Owners might wish to complete the anonymous poll (just 2 questions) so that we can get an idea of what percentage of owners in this thread have experienced power supply failures. This may give us an idea of how common the failure is. There are quite a few reports of power supplies failing, but it is impossible to tell from the thread how many individual owners have experienced this particular problem with their 5040/6040 (9300 in the UK).
> 
> I am happy to submit the poll findings directly to Epson. Thanks!
> 
> EDIT: if the owner of this thread can add the poll here, I'll delete the other thread.




I viewed the poll and it would also be important to consumers if people answering stated what Epson did in response - such as providing a refurbished unit, how long they have the replacement unit and whether it seems to have fixed the problem.


----------



## Juiced46

mckracken88 said:


> Are you people not bothered by the noise (fan) when watching HDR? I mean in 3d you have no choice, but HDR has rather little benefit to the image quality. Also don't like the oversatured colors. It looks gaudy.



My projector is directly above my head and I have no complaints about fan noise with HDR. With that being said though, when viewing HDR content I use ECO mode and it still looks phenomenal.


----------



## viperlogic

Juiced46 said:


> My projector is directly above my head and I have no complaints about fan noise with HDR. With that being said though, when viewing HDR content I use ECO mode and it still looks phenomenal.


If using the cinema filter then you get close to P3 WCG (see below) but you certainly won't be getting any specular highlights as such. For example, in my env, eco with the cinema filter only gets 48 nits, but if high without the filter can get 158 nits. While nothing close to modern TV's, its certainly closer than just using eco.

You can see here that with the filter engaged, full P3 is not achieved but its close


----------



## jnabq

Voted in the poll, on my 6th replacement. No weird noises, or image issues overall with this one. Strange that this one was shipped in the box with all the peripherals, mount/bulb, (6040), firmware 1.11. 

The others were sent in single boxes, no extras incl, with only one of those being marked "refurbished". I don't know what to think, why all the different issues with the replacements and different boxes they sent 'em out in. Kinda feel like I'm playing 3 card monty or the shell game with these things. Just happy my dealer worked with me to get a "good" replacement finally. We'll see how this one goes.


----------



## astewart415

mrbeezly said:


> You guys are correct. With Netflix on the shield its either 4k or HDR but not both. Additionally, there are Atmos enabled titles and the Netflix app only allows Dolby Digital. I hooked up a keyboard to the sheild tv usb port and hit F4 and it shows the resolution of the stream, confirming 1080p.
> 
> I also have a Sony UBP X800 and am able to stream 4k HDR from Netflix (Altered Carbon last night) and it looks stunning. There is still the Dolby Digital (no Atmos) issue, however the video looked amazing.
> 
> I have a Sony XBR55X850D - the Netflix app on this TV also only shows HDR in the description of the title, however by hitting "display" once the video starts, you can see the video switch from 1080 to 2160, part of the confusion I was getting with the Shield. The indicator in the title description looks the same, but the Shield never increases resolution to 2160.
> 
> I really wish Netflix would get it together and fix these issues as well as the Atmos limitations.
> 
> Sorry for the confusion.


Do any Shield owners have Judder issues in Netflix and YouTube when running at 4k 24hz? Only some shows stutter in Netflix like Planet Earth 2 and some episodes of Black Mirror. Once I switch to 4k60hz, it's all good but no HDR due to the chipset limits. Frankly, I'm kind of over the HDR function on the 5040. Standard 4k looks better to me because I don't have to blow out the whites trying to get it brighter. Anyways, I digress.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

astewart415 said:


> Do any Shield owners have Judder issues in Netflix and YouTube when running at 4k 24hz? Only some shows stutter in Netflix like Planet Earth 2 and some episodes of Black Mirror. Once I switch to 4k60hz, it's all good but no HDR due to the chipset limits. Frankly, I'm kind of over the HDR function on the 5040. Standard 4k looks better to me because I don't have to blow out the whites trying to get it brighter. Anyways, I digress.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk



Those two shows are from the UK where the broadcast standard is 50hz. You might try either 25hz or 50hz.

To clarify - the shield won't do Netflix at 4K24hz (it will only do Netflix 4K at 60hz). The Shield is upscaling the 1080p input from Netflix. But I think you would have trouble identifying the difference in a blind test from 12 feet back or more.

HDR can look better than SDR on this projector with a proper calibration that will get normal brightness without blowing out the whites, as you say. Copying settings from others may or may not get you there. Other options are hiring a calibrator or getting a meter and learning to calibrate it yourself.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

viperlogic said:


> If using the cinema filter then you get close to P3 WCG (see below) but you certainly won't be getting any specular highlights as such. For example, in my env, eco with the cinema filter only gets 48 nits, but if high without the filter can get 158 nits. While nothing close to modern TV's, its certainly closer than just using eco.
> 
> You can see here that with the filter engaged, full P3 is not achieved but its close


I use Bright Cinema with ECO. I have tried Digital Cinema in all 3 bulb modes and never found Digital Cinema to look better or warrant using it with high power lamp mode. Bright Cinema and ECO works very well for me.


----------



## theaterofpain

New 5040 owner here - I have my entire theater wired with CAT6 including the projector soffit. After connecting my 5040 via ethernet I thought I could update the firmware over network. Of course, then I read the manual and realized that the ethernet port is only for connecting to the projector with some obscure home automation protocols? And that updates are solely via USB?!?! So please confirm that there's no benefit to me having my projector connected to my network, correct? Also, I can't believe this projector doesn't even have an IR in port, yet it has a useless ethernet port. Otherwise, excellent PQ - that's all that matters in the end.


----------



## ayrton

theaterofpain said:


> New 5040 owner here - I have my entire theater wired with CAT6 including the projector soffit. After connecting my 5040 via ethernet I thought I could update the firmware over network. Of course, then I read the manual and realized that the ethernet port is only for connecting to the projector with some obscure home automation protocols? And that updates are solely via USB?!?! So please confirm that there's no benefit to me having my projector connected to my network, correct? Also, I can't believe this projector doesn't even have an IR in port, yet it has a useless ethernet port. Otherwise, excellent PQ - that's all that matters in the end.


Other than streaming from a HTPC or NAS.

I paid $100 for the wifi usb dongle and later found out about updates by USB only.. 

Other than that, I'm very happy with my 5040 thanks to the people on this thread!


----------



## viperlogic

Juiced46 said:


> I use Bright Cinema with ECO. I have tried Digital Cinema in all 3 bulb modes and never found Digital Cinema to look better or warrant using it with high power lamp mode. Bright Cinema and ECO works very well for me.


Please note that Bright Cinema doesn't engage the P3 filter so you are only getting rec.709 colours, not WCG of P3 in rec.2020.


----------



## Juiced46

viperlogic said:


> Please note that Bright Cinema doesn't engage the P3 filter so you are only getting rec.709 colours, not WCG of P3 in rec.2020.


I completely understand that. However, unless I am doing something very wrong. I do not see a significant difference using Digital cinema over Bright Cinema. Colors look the same except Bright cinema gives me a brighter image and to me looks better. Digital looks good with high power lamp mode but not drastic enough for me to use it.


----------



## Azekecse

Juiced46 said:


> I completely understand that. However, unless I am doing something very wrong. I do not see a significant difference using Digital cinema over Bright Cinema. Colors look the same except Bright cinema gives me a brighter image and to me looks better. Digital looks good with high power lamp mode but not drastic enough for me to use it.


+1...Like Juiced46, I tried DC to test P3 Filter engagement, didn't really work for me either. Bright Cinema looks more natural, using Oledertvison and Harpervision settings, however, that being said, I probably could still use a 
ISF professional calibration for my 6040. 

I will try to calibrate utilizing Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark and Calibration Disc 2nd Edition first. Anyone used this Disc for calibration? How did the calibration turn out?

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

ayrton said:


> Other than streaming from a HTPC or NAS.
> 
> I paid $100 for the wifi usb dongle and later found out about updates by USB only..
> 
> Other than that, I'm very happy with my 5040 thanks to the people on this thread!


With a LAN cable connected, you can also use the Epson iProjection App to project from mobile devices...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## theaterofpain

ayrton said:


> Other than streaming from a HTPC or NAS.





Azekecse said:


> With a LAN cable connected, you can also use the Epson iProjection App to project from mobile devices...


Thanks, good to know, but both of those would then forego audio, so I could see it more useful for business presentations/PPT.


----------



## Deftec

*Bt2020hdr*

I plan to buy 4K UHD player this weekend which one should i go with? Oppo uhd203, sony ubp x-800 or pan DMP ub700? I get 4k display in pj info with my current Roku but I am not able to get hdr content and also i do not get the 4k enhancement option enabled (not sure why) in pj
Oppo doesn't have streaming channels for a reason I agree but if I connect roku to it do you think it will enhance the image quality and may produce HDR along with 4k for the channels? will I see BT2020 HDR color format in my dispay and pj info? Do I need to play only 4k uhd disc to get BT2020HDR? Sony and Pan has streaming channels will I be able to see 4k shows/movies from Netflix?


----------



## hnupe

Deftec said:


> I plan to buy 4K UHD player this weekend which one should i go with? Oppo uhd203, sony ubp x-800 or pan DMP ub700? I get 4k display in pj info with my current Roku but I am not able to get hdr content and also i do not get the 4k enhancement option enabled (not sure why) in pj
> Oppo doesn't have streaming channels for a reason I agree but if I connect roku to it do you think it will enhance the image quality and may produce HDR along with 4k for the channels? will I see BT2020 HDR color format in my dispay and pj info? Do I need to play only 4k uhd disc to get BT2020HDR? Sony and Pan has streaming channels will I be able to see 4k shows/movies from Netflix?


I have the Sony ubp x-800 and I am happy with it...plus less money. I did ask this group the question on upgrading to the Oppo uhd203 and it seems as if it is not worth the extra extra money.


----------



## Lithium

Deftec said:


> I plan to buy 4K UHD player this weekend which one should i go with? Oppo uhd203, sony ubp x-800 or pan DMP ub700? I get 4k display in pj info with my current Roku but I am not able to get hdr content and also i do not get the 4k enhancement option enabled (not sure why) in pj
> Oppo doesn't have streaming channels for a reason I agree but if I connect roku to it do you think it will enhance the image quality and may produce HDR along with 4k for the channels? will I see BT2020 HDR color format in my dispay and pj info? Do I need to play only 4k uhd disc to get BT2020HDR? Sony and Pan has streaming channels will I be able to see 4k shows/movies from Netflix?


I am very partial to the Samsung UBD-K8500. With the proper player settings: (listed here) Netflix and Amazon will correctly play 4K24 HDR @ 12-bit that the Epson will accept.


----------



## carp

Juiced46 said:


> I completely understand that. However, unless I am doing something very wrong. I do not see a significant difference using Digital cinema over Bright Cinema. Colors look the same except Bright cinema gives me a brighter image and to me looks better. Digital looks good with high power lamp mode but not drastic enough for me to use it.


I agree. I have a pretty large screen so digital cinema is a no go for me but like you I can't tell the difference in the colors. 

I wonder why the info screen still says 2020 even when using bright cinema?


----------



## Shane M

Is it a general consensus that, if you have 4K and 1080P versions of the same content, that the 5040 displays the 1080P better than the 4K? I can see that the 5040 either receives 1080P or 4K, and in 1080P it is pixel-shifting. Personally, I think the 4K content version looks better. But, it seems that everyone here has said the 1080P looks better.

Thoughts?


----------



## seplant

carp said:


> I agree. I have a pretty large screen so digital cinema is a no go for me but like you I can't tell the difference in the colors.
> 
> I wonder why the info screen still says 2020 even when using bright cinema?


The Info screen shows what signals the projector is receiving, not what it is displaying. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## OGZimba

I'm getting my 5040 today!!! I finished assembling my 100" Silverticket Screen last night. What should I watch 1st?

Options:
Force Awakens 3d
Blade Runner 2049
Dunkirk
PRON
Blue Planet II

I have a lot more movies both 4k and Bluray but I can't decide.


----------



## OGZimba

viperlogic said:


> Please note that Bright Cinema doesn't engage the P3 filter so you are only getting rec.709 colours, not WCG of P3 in rec.2020.


How do you make sure you're getting WCG? What setting do you have to use?


----------



## Azekecse

OGZimba said:


> I'm getting my 5040 today!!! I finished assembling my 100" Silverticket Screen last night. What should I watch 1st?
> 
> Options:
> Force Awakens 3d
> Blade Runner 2049
> Dunkirk
> PRON
> Blue Planet II
> 
> I have a lot more movies both 4k and Bluray but I can't decide.


That's a pretty tough choice, I think it depends on your mood. Blue Planet 2, is the most colorful and informative of the group. Enjoy your new 5040, I know you're stoked ...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

OGZimba said:


> How do you make sure you're getting WCG? What setting do you have to use?


You will need to break in the lamp for ~100hrs until it settles. Also you need to lookup Oldert's & Harpervision's settings on the forum and start there. From there customize to your liking and environment, most of all enjoy, if you're constantly tweaking you miss out on the joy.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## LumensLover

OGZimba said:


> I'm getting my 5040 today!!! I finished assembling my 100" Silverticket Screen last night. What should I watch 1st?
> 
> Options:
> Force Awakens 3d
> Blade Runner 2049
> Dunkirk
> PRON
> Blue Planet II
> 
> I have a lot more movies both 4k and Bluray but I can't decide.


My vote goes to Bladerunner 2049.


----------



## OGZimba

I'm super curious about this: Sound and Vision said they watched "The Martian" in both 4k and standard bluray, and they felt there wasn't a noticeable difference between the two formats. (This is in regards to 4k disc on the 5040, not in general)

Do you agree? Or are your 4k discs noticeably better on the 5040? 

I'm coming from a 4k TV and player, but I'd say the majority of my viewing is 1080p bluray. I'm happy either way, just curious.


----------



## robc1976

OGZimba said:


> I'm super curious about this: Sound and Vision said they watched "The Martian" in both 4k and standard bluray, and they felt there wasn't a noticeable difference between the two formats. (This is in regards to 4k disc on the 5040, not in general)
> 
> Do you agree? Or are your 4k discs noticeably better on the 5040?
> 
> I'm coming from a 4k TV and player, but I'd say the majority of my viewing is 1080p bluray. I'm happy either way, just curious.


Best picture on this projector is have bluray player send 1080P with 4K disk.

You get 1080P 12bit HDR and let epson upscale to 4K.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shane M

robc1976 said:


> Best picture on this projector is have bluray player send 1080P with 4K disk.
> 
> You get 1080P 12bit HDR and let epson upscale to 4K.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I asked the question earlier today but haven't seen a response. Is this really a universal opinion? I have tried sending 1080P and 4K with a 4K BR and in my opinion, and others, sending 4K looks better. This is with BR2049


----------



## Shane M

OGZimba said:


> I'm getting my 5040 today!!! I finished assembling my 100" Silverticket Screen last night. What should I watch 1st?
> 
> Options:
> Force Awakens 3d
> Blade Runner 2049
> Dunkirk
> PRON
> Blue Planet II
> 
> I have a lot more movies both 4k and Bluray but I can't decide.


Blue Planet II is well lit and very clear video...it really shows off the PJ's brightness and picture quality. It's just really pretty.

Blade Runner 2049 is a beautiful film with amazing art design. It shows off more of the dynamic range. I'm assuming you have seen it, but in case you have not, it's not for everyone. It's long (I love it and I think it's a little too long) and by some people's definitions... "slow". 

You will be happy either way IMO.


----------



## robc1976

Shane M said:


> I asked the question earlier today but haven't seen a response. Is this really a universal opinion? I have tried sending 1080P and 4K with a 4K BR and in my opinion, and others, sending 4K looks better. This is with BR2049


Not many players can get 1080P HDR 12 bit.

Regular 1080P upscaled to 4K doesn't look nearky as good as its SDR

With 1080P 12 HDR your also get the 2020 color space.

The 5040ub is not a full 4K protector, its designed to upscale 1080P to 4K.

Not saying its night day difference, biggest is a bit less artifacts in picture.

Also, having auto Irison normal/high I noticed gives a better transition between light/dark scenes and a bit better shadow detail. Keep in mind everyone's room and screen is different.

I use oppo 203 and stuwart cima nueve screen. Fully dedicated theater. I would assume with any light on room these would all be vague points.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shane M

robc1976 said:


> Not many players can get 1080P HDR 12 bit.
> 
> Regular 1080P upscaled to 4K doesn't look nearky as good as its SDR
> 
> With 1080P 12 HDR your also get the 2020 color space.
> 
> The 5040ub is not a full 4K protector, its designed to upscale 1080P to 4K.
> 
> Not saying its night day difference, biggest is a bit less artifacts in picture.
> 
> Also, having auto Irison normal/high I noticed gives a better transition between light/dark scenes and a bit better shadow detail. Keep in mind everyone's room and screen is different.
> 
> I use oppo 203 and stuwart cima nueve screen. Fully dedicated theater. I would assume with any light on room these would all be vague points.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


So I agree that 1080P HDR > 4K SDR.

In my setup I'm using the Apple TV 4K to play a 4K BR file. It's pushing 4K HDR (4:2:2) 12-bit at 24Hz. The 5040 accepts this and plays it (although obviously not natively as you stated, it's not a true 4K). If I play that same file, but instead force the Apple TV to push 1080P HDR, it doesn't look quite as good. 

I don't know. Intuitively it seems like letting the 5040 use its 1080p fauxK upscaling magic would be better than forcing a 4K feed down its throat and letting it do whatever it does with it. But my experience is the opposite. The 4K setting clearly looks superior.

Here is a post from awhile ago where I provided screenshot comparisons. I need to get better ones, I'll admit. But even here with a inconsistent crappy iPhone shot, I think the difference is clear personally. Especially looking at the sheet of music, etc. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-426.html#post55529296


----------



## robc1976

Shane M said:


> So I agree that 1080P HDR > 4K SDR.
> 
> In my setup I'm using the Apple TV 4K to play a 4K BR file. It's pushing 4K HDR (4:2:2) 12-bit at 24Hz. The 5040 accepts this and plays it (although obviously not natively as you stated, it's not a true 4K). If I play that same file, but instead force the Apple TV to push 1080P HDR, it doesn't look quite as good.
> 
> I don't know. Intuitively it seems like letting the 5040 use its 1080p fauxK upscaling magic would be better than forcing a 4K feed down its throat and letting it do whatever it does with it. But my experience is the opposite. The 4K setting clearly looks superior.
> 
> Here is a post from awhile ago where I provided screenshot comparisons. I need to get better ones, I'll admit. But even here with a inconsistent crappy iPhone shot, I think the difference is clear personally. Especially looking at the sheet of music, etc. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-426.html#post55529296


In the pics it just shows light? I may go look again to be sure. I will report back. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Shane M said:


> So I agree that 1080P HDR > 4K SDR.
> 
> In my setup I'm using the Apple TV 4K to play a 4K BR file. It's pushing 4K HDR (4:2:2) 12-bit at 24Hz. The 5040 accepts this and plays it (although obviously not natively as you stated, it's not a true 4K). If I play that same file, but instead force the Apple TV to push 1080P HDR, it doesn't look quite as good.
> 
> I don't know. Intuitively it seems like letting the 5040 use its 1080p fauxK upscaling magic would be better than forcing a 4K feed down its throat and letting it do whatever it does with it. But my experience is the opposite. The 4K setting clearly looks superior.
> 
> Here is a post from awhile ago where I provided screenshot comparisons. I need to get better ones, I'll admit. But even here with a inconsistent crappy iPhone shot, I think the difference is clear personally. Especially looking at the sheet of music, etc. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-426.html#post55529296


The reasoning is basically it takes more processing power etc for 4K HDR and that is why 1080P HDR has slight better pic supposedly. You have me wondering again lol!! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shane M

robc1976 said:


> The reasoning is basically it takes more processing power etc for 4K HDR and that is why 1080P HDR has slight better pic supposedly. You have me wondering again lol!!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Interesting. I don't have perfect light control in my theater so I can't take new shots today, plus it is Valentines Day and I'm sure my wife wouldn't appreciate me setting up a tripod and camera and taking shots tonight. So I will take some new photos tomorrow and see what they look like. I'll do the BR2049 shot of the music, but better, and then something else like Blue Planet II etc.


----------



## exm

robc1976 said:


> Not many players can get 1080P HDR 12 bit.
> 
> Regular 1080P upscaled to 4K doesn't look nearky as good as its SDR
> 
> With 1080P 12 HDR your also get the 2020 color space.
> 
> The 5040ub is not a full 4K protector, its designed to upscale 1080P to 4K.
> 
> Not saying its night day difference, biggest is a bit less artifacts in picture.
> 
> Also, having auto Irison normal/high I noticed gives a better transition between light/dark scenes and a bit better shadow detail. Keep in mind everyone's room and screen is different.
> 
> I use oppo 203 and stuwart cima nueve screen. Fully dedicated theater. I would assume with any light on room these would all be vague points.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


What settings do you need to set in the Oppo 203? I have the same setup (Oppo/6040). Would love to set my Roku Ultra also for this setup.


----------



## Juiced46

robc1976 said:


> Best picture on this projector is have bluray player send 1080P with 4K disk.
> 
> You get 1080P 12bit HDR and let epson upscale to 4K.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Rob, this would make sense if you are comparing 1080P/ HDR 12 bit upscaled to 4K. vs 4K/HDR 8 bit. However, the Epson can take a 4K/HDR 12 bit feed @ 24hz. So I disagree with your comment a bit since feeding it 4K and getting 4K/HDR 12bit will for sure look better then sending 1080p/HDR 12 bit and upscaling it. The biggest issue is finding a player/source that outputs @ 4K/24 HDR 12 bit. My Xbox One X will do it with UHD Blu Ray and Amazon prime.


----------



## Uppsalaing

OGZimba said:


> I'm getting my 5040 today!!! I finished assembling my 100" Silverticket Screen last night. What should I watch 1st?
> 
> Options:
> Force Awakens 3d
> Blade Runner 2049
> Dunkirk
> PRON
> Blue Planet II
> 
> I have a lot more movies both 4k and Bluray but I can't decide.


Dunkirk!

It will blow you away!


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> Rob, this would make sense if you are comparing 1080P/ HDR 12 bit upscaled to 4K. vs 4K/HDR 8 bit. However, the Epson can take a 4K/HDR 12 bit feed @ 24hz. So I disagree with your comment a bit since feeding it 4K and getting 4K/HDR 12bit will for sure look better then sending 1080p/HDR 12 bit and upscaling it. The biggest issue is finding a player/source that outputs @ 4K/24 HDR 12 bit. My Xbox One X will do it with UHD Blu Ray and Amazon prime.


I wonder if that us it, I will see what I am getting with oppo 203....you know what...you just made me realize I.never tried to see if oppo does 4K 12bit and set it up the way other player did Panasonic UB900. To be fair the panny I think sunbathing was not right with it.

I will report back

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

Uppsalaing said:


> Dunkirk!
> 
> It will blow you away!


I fell asleep on that one.


----------



## ChadS13TDI

Shane M said:


> Is it a general consensus that, if you have 4K and 1080P versions of the same content, that the 5040 displays the 1080P better than the 4K? I can see that the 5040 either receives 1080P or 4K, and in 1080P it is pixel-shifting. Personally, I think the 4K content version looks better. But, it seems that everyone here has said the 1080P looks better.
> 
> Thoughts?


I gave up on trying to get HDR or 4k content to look better than the Blu-ray 1080P. 


I am an amateur when it comes to updating the settings but I have tried to use recommended settings here in this thread and I just don't see the results that I want or others describe.


I find Blu-ray 1080P to look fantastic and the brightness etc. is great with this projector. I stopped buying 4k discs unless they are a great deal. I will ultimately upgrade the PJ some day to a true 4k but for now the 1080P bluray image is superb and it makes me happy.


----------



## jwhn

Shane M said:


> Is it a general consensus that, if you have 4K and 1080P versions of the same content, that the 5040 displays the 1080P better than the 4K? I can see that the 5040 either receives 1080P or 4K, and in 1080P it is pixel-shifting. Personally, I think the 4K content version looks better. But, it seems that everyone here has said the 1080P looks better.
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?




I don't think that is the consensus. You should also clarify whether you are asking for a comparison of these two resolutions with or without HDR. 

If you are only asking about the two resolutions (without HDR) then I find them nearly identical from 14 feet away on a 120" screen. I doubt many could tell the difference from that distance. 

But if you add HDR it looks better and in that case to me 1080p with HDR does look better than 4K non-HDR (if it's set up right). But it does take a lot more effort to get HDR looking good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## astewart415

OGZimba said:


> I'm getting my 5040 today!!! I finished assembling my 100" Silverticket Screen last night. What should I watch 1st?
> 
> Options:
> Force Awakens 3d
> Blade Runner 2049
> Dunkirk
> PRON
> Blue Planet II
> 
> I have a lot more movies both 4k and Bluray but I can't decide.


Blade Runner 2049 is absolutely incredible! That being said, Blue Planet 2 looks amazing as well. Enjoy.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## astewart415

jwhn said:


> Those two shows are from the UK where the broadcast standard is 50hz. You might try either 25hz or 50hz.
> 
> To clarify - the shield won't do Netflix at 4K24hz (it will only do Netflix 4K at 60hz). The Shield is upscaling the 1080p input from Netflix. But I think you would have trouble identifying the difference in a blind test from 12 feet back or more.
> 
> HDR can look better than SDR on this projector with a proper calibration that will get normal brightness without blowing out the whites, as you say. Copying settings from others may or may not get you there. Other options are hiring a calibrator or getting a meter and learning to calibrate it yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ahhhhh yes. Of course there couldn't just be a standard frame rate. Haha. I guess that is why I only seethe judder on some shows. Thanks for the insight.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


----------



## viperlogic

OGZimba said:


> How do you make sure you're getting WCG? What setting do you have to use?


Use Cinema or Digital Cinema modes as they engage the P3 filter for WCG. Bright Cinema doesn't engage the filter. Note, the filter halves the peak brightness.


----------



## airbag41

Shane M said:


> So I agree that 1080P HDR > 4K SDR.
> 
> In my setup I'm using the Apple TV 4K to play a 4K BR file. It's pushing 4K HDR (4:2:2) 12-bit at 24Hz. The 5040 accepts this and plays it (although obviously not natively as you stated, it's not a true 4K). If I play that same file, but instead force the Apple TV to push 1080P HDR, it doesn't look quite as good.


I"m doing same, however I have noticed when I run the ATV at 4k 24hz I get a real lag on the menu's when scrolling through. It just isn't fluid. Have you noticed this issue at all or how to solve it if you have?


----------



## Deftec

exm said:


> What settings do you need to set in the Oppo 203? I have the same setup (Oppo/6040). Would love to set my Roku Ultra also for this setup.


Please share your setup with Roku Ultra as I still struggling to get 2020 HDR in my proj


----------



## Kyle_Larson

On roku ultra, i can get bt2020 hdr 4k on the youtube app only at 24hz or 30hz I can get netflix and vudu 4k sdr only. Havent tried amazon yet for 4k hdr.

Would love to know a way to get hdr from vudu on roku ultra. The 4k films look tremendous on this pj. Can only imagine the hdr as well.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Juiced46 said:


> Rob, this would make sense if you are comparing 1080P/ HDR 12 bit upscaled to 4K. vs 4K/HDR 8 bit. However, the Epson can take a 4K/HDR 12 bit feed @ 24hz. So I disagree with your comment a bit since feeding it 4K and getting 4K/HDR 12bit will for sure look better then sending 1080p/HDR 12 bit and upscaling it. The biggest issue is finding a player/source that outputs @ 4K/24 HDR 12 bit. My Xbox One X will do it with UHD Blu Ray and Amazon prime.


Your right 100% I set my oppo up 4K and its 4:2:2 12 bit

Much better

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kyle_Larson

Will the xb1 do that output on vudu and netflix as well?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

ChadS13TDI said:


> I gave up on trying to get HDR or 4k content to look better than the Blu-ray 1080P.
> 
> 
> I am an amateur when it comes to updating the settings but I have tried to use recommended settings here in this thread and I just don't see the results that I want or others describe.
> 
> 
> I find Blu-ray 1080P to look fantastic and the brightness etc. is great with this projector. I stopped buying 4k discs unless they are a great deal. I will ultimately upgrade the PJ some day to a true 4k but for now the 1080P bluray image is superb and it makes me happy.


It unfortunate, but understandable why, people feel this way. The OP has not been updated in months and it becomes very difficult to find the important information in hundreds of pages. However, I assure you that with a proper light controlled environment and screen you can achieve a spectacular 4k HDR/WCG picture with very little effort.

To share my experience - at first I felt the same way. I tried a the common configurations like 'oledurt bright cinema' and I just felt it was way too dark for my liking and the colors just didn't pop enough. Then I stumbled upon a PDF that ht guy had compiled listing other and alternative settings. There is still a handy version of it: here. And that's when I stumbled upon HarperVision and the concept of keeping the projector's dynamic range in SDR mode and using some extreme config values when consuming HDR sources. I tried out the configuration labelled 'Harper Digital Cinema w/ oledurt suggestions' and that's when I had that aha! moment. Picture overall was brighter and the WCG really made objects pop, IMO. People will argue that you will trade specular highlights for WGC but I think this is a trade worth making for just about any projector since it's hard to drive enough lumens. But, I think typically for those who like the HDR more than WCG will go the bright cinema route.

Anyway, if you are willing to spend an hour or two setting up a few saved profiles with these settings the community has developed I think you will find this projector can really extend beyond it's price point.


----------



## robc1976

Lithium said:


> It unfortunate, but understandable why, people feel this way. The OP has not been updated in months and it becomes very difficult to find the important information in hundreds of pages. However, I assure you that with a proper light controlled environment and screen you can achieve a spectacular 4k HDR/WCG picture with very little effort.
> 
> To share my experience - at first I felt the same way. I tried a the common configurations like 'oledurt bright cinema' and I just felt it was way too dark for my liking and the colors just didn't pop enough. Then I stumbled upon a PDF that ht guy had compiled listing other and alternative settings. There is still a handy version of it: here. And that's when I stumbled upon HarperVision and the concept of keeping the projector's dynamic range in SDR mode and using some extreme config values when consuming HDR sources. I tried out the configuration labelled 'Harper Digital Cinema w/ oledurt suggestions' and that's when I had that aha! moment. Picture overall was brighter and the WCG really made objects pop, IMO. People will argue that you will trade specular highlights for WGC but I think this is a trade worth making for just about any projector since it's hard to drive enough lumens. But, I think typically for those who like the HDR more than WCG will go the bright cinema route.
> 
> Anyway, if you are willing to spend an hour or two setting up a few saved profiles with these settings the community has developed I think you will find this projector can really extend beyond it's price point.


Agreed, I use harper vision for movies but use oledurt newest version of bright cinema for gaming. For some odd reason oledurt has better detail, colors are richer ect then Harper vision when gaming but for movies harper vision is best.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt said:


> I had my calibrator by this weekend, and he re calibrated the bright cinema mode. We used expanded video range on the hdmi settings. He used a different offset in Calman so that we did not have to push the gamma so far.
> 
> Because when you push that gamma too much you get red push. So I have a new gamma curve. He also re calibrated all the colors
> 
> When you use the expanded video range it raises the black floor, and you have to lower the brightness to bring the blacks back.
> 
> We got a very good grayscale. The best thing that he accomplished was extending the white clipping point to 1200 nits, and also the color clipping point to over 1000 nits.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


this is the only thing I don't understand with Oledurts settings, maybe sombody can confirm this for me.

If using my HDR test patterns should I have contrast on test pattern barely blink at 1200? I have it at 1000 now.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luís Amaral

astewart415 said:


> Blade Runner 2049 is absolutely incredible! That being said, Blue Planet 2 looks amazing as well. Enjoy.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk



I do not know why but i prefere see Bladerunner 2049 at 8bit 4:4:4 SDR then 12bit 4:2:2 BT.2020, the movie is too dark maybe is only configuration but in my PJ the city have very fog... the movie that i love to see 4K 4:2:2 is Dark Knight rises 

One question, i have zappati, on HDMI shoud i put Full RBG or limited RGB ?

Thanks


----------



## jrcrunch

am i maximising my 5040ub projector's capabilities?

my blu ray player is samsung player ubd-k8500

and media player is himedia q10 pro 


from SDR to HDR2 and made firmware update and it is now HDR


----------



## Deftec

Kyle_Larson said:


> On roku ultra, i can get bt2020 hdr 4k on the youtube app only at 24hz or 30hz


Kyle - Can you please share your settings/connection between Roku Ultra and pj that give you bt2020hdr, I tried many ways but only get 4k bt709sdr, its not going beyond that and the option to 4k enhancement is disabled in my pj not sure how that gets enabled. Roku support and pj support both are blaming each other bottom line i dont get hdr.

On roku display test i see all circles checked for 4k uhd hdr 30hz but pj info shows bt709sdr, below attached images shows my issues


----------



## Juiced46

robc1976 said:


> Your right 100% I set my oppo up 4K and its 4:2:2 12 bit
> 
> Much better
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Awesome, great news!


----------



## Kyle_Larson

jrcrunch said:


> am i maximising my 5040ub projector's capabilities?
> 
> my blu ray player is samsung player ubd-k8500
> 
> and media player is himedia q10 pro
> 
> 
> from SDR to HDR2 and made firmware update and it is now HDR


That lools perfect to me. 4k input, 12 bit color on expanded color space with 4:2:2 chroma subsampling.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Kyle_Larson

Deftec said:


> Kyle - Can you please share your settings/connection between Roku Ultra and pj that give you bt2020hdr, I tried many ways but only get 4k bt709sdr, its not going beyond that and the option to 4k enhancement is disabled in my pj not sure how that gets enabled. Roku support and pj support both are blaming each other bottom line i dont get hdr.
> 
> On roku display test i see all circles checked for 4k uhd hdr 30hz but pj info shows bt709sdr, below attached images shows my issues


Someone correct me if im wrong, but my understanding is that if you have a 4k signal, the 4k shift is greyed out. This is only an option with 1080p content.

It seems you have your roku setup correctly. Did you selelct the 4:2:2 output under the advanced didplay options?

Was that from the youtube app? It could be that the "hdr" content you tried wasnt actually encoded with the WCG bt2020 colorspace but rec709.

Im not home today to test, but i believe one of the hdr youtube videos i tried was a cg film with a sheep. 

I believe it was this one:






I was able to get this one in full hdr outnof roku.

And also a number of hdr film trailers, as those are mostly all encoded at 24 frames per second.

You can also sesrch youtube for bt2020 hdr videos.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

Kyle_Larson said:


> Someone correct me if im wrong, but my understanding is that if you have a 4k signal, the 4k shift is greyed out. This is only an option with 1080p content.
> 
> It seems you have your roku setup correctly. Did you selelct the 4:2:2 output under the advanced didplay options?
> 
> Was that from the youtube app? It could be that the "hdr" content you tried wasnt actually encoded with the WCG bt2020 colorspace but rec709.
> 
> Im not home today to test, but i believe one of the hdr youtube videos i tried was a cg film with a sheep.
> 
> I believe it was this one:
> 
> https://youtu.be/fLHPIYNtig4
> 
> I was able to get this one in full hdr outnof roku.
> 
> And also a number of hdr film trailers, as those are mostly all encoded at 24 frames per second.
> 
> You can also sesrch youtube for bt2020 hdr videos.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Are you sure the info screen on your projector shows HDR BT.2020 when you are playing the YouTube videos? From all the previous posts on this thread, I was under the impression that the Roku could not output 24 fps video. I don't recall seeing anyone previously reporting that they had HDR BT.2020 working with a Roku without an HDFury Linker. If this is really working for you, it might be a first.


----------



## Kyle_Larson

seplant said:


> Are you sure the info screen on your projector shows HDR BT.2020 when you are playing the YouTube videos? From all the previous posts on this thread, I was under the impression that the Roku could not output 24 fps video. I don't recall seeing anyone previously reporting that they had HDR BT.2020 working with a Roku without an HDFury Linker. If this is really working for you, it might be a first.


Positive. I dont remember or know for sure it was was 24frame, maybe 30, but i know it was bt2020 with hdr. I so know that roku can do 24frames from vudu in 4k, just not hdr(that i can figure out).

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

Kyle_Larson said:


> Positive. I dont remember or know for sure it was was 24frame, maybe 30, but i know it was bt2020 with hdr. I so know that roku can do 24frames from vudu in 4k, just not hdr(that i can figure out).


Cool! I've got a Roku Premiere+ that should be capable of this. I'll have to try those YouTube videos you mentioned to see if I can get 4K HDR BT.2020 also.


----------



## Kyle_Larson

seplant said:


> Cool! I've got a Roku Premiere+ that should be capable of this. I'll have to try those YouTube videos you mentioned to see if I can get 4K HDR BT.2020 also.


I believe you should be able to from the premiere+. My understanding

Im bummed i cant get the vudu app to output hdr, only 4k resolution. Even though IMO, the true 4k input still looks unbelievable vs the 1080p upscaled. Just has so much more clarity and sharpness on 125" screen.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

Kyle_Larson said:


> I believe you should be able to from the premiere+. My understanding
> 
> Im bummed i cant get the vudu app to output hdr, only 4k resolution. Even though IMO, the true 4k input still looks unbelievable vs the 1080p upscaled. Just has so much more clarity and sharpness on 125" screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


You're not able to get Netflix in 4k HDR BT.2020 with your Roku, are you? That would be a breakthrough without a Linker. 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


----------



## Kyle_Larson

seplant said:


> You're not able to get Netflix in 4k HDR BT.2020 with your Roku, are you? That would be a breakthrough without a Linker.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


No hdr with netflix, just 4k rec709. 8bit color if memory serves.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

As I've mentioned earlier, the Roku Ultra (and presumably other models) do not play nice with HDR and the Epson's bandwidth limits. You'll get a lot of slow HDMI handshaking between menus and most apps will not send 12-bit 24Hz HDR. You will need a linker to transform the signal, which IMO is not worth it unless you also plan to do HDR gaming. I personally disable HDR in the display settings on my Roku and run 4k non-HDR 60Hz. If I want HDR with Netflix or Amazon I use the Samsung K8500's apps which support forcing 12-bit 24Hz HDR.


----------



## Luís Amaral

I have zappiti hdr and with this pj some movies hdr i noticed image problems like banding, anyone knows how to solve ?


----------



## Kyle_Larson

Just got home and confirmed roku ultra does send out 4k hdr at 12bit 4:2:2 with 24 fps through youtube app.

Netflix app no hdr, just 4k with 12bit 4:2:2. Still looks amazing, but not hdr.









Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

The power supply failure poll created by @kbarnes701 has prompted me to initiate a communication to Epson. Regardless of the poll's actual accuracy or results, it's apparent there is some level of initial and/or repeated failures to be of concern for owners. Thankfully, Epson's response to these failures have been immediate replacement units. However, it would be a positive and proactive effort on Epson's part to be transparent and acknowledge the failure, provide at least some level of explanation, and describe the associated remedy. Also, I'm not aware of Epson's active participation/representation/contributions (like some manufacturers) in this forum or thread but it certainly would build/raise consumer confidence in real time and likely sales activity. Lastly, a simple "decision tree" tool to help assess/diagnose the power supply failure would be extremely useful. I'm hopeful that Epson will provide a favorable response to my inquiry.


----------



## kbarnes701

gene4ht said:


> The power supply failure poll created by @kbarnes701 has prompted me to initiate a communication to Epson. Regardless of the poll's actual accuracy or results, it's apparent there is some level of initial and/or repeated failures to be of concern for owners. Thankfully, Epson's response to these failures have been immediate replacement units. However, it would be a positive and proactive effort on Epson's part to be transparent and acknowledge the failure, provide at least some level of explanation, and describe the associated remedy. Also, I'm not aware of Epson's active participation/representation/contributions (like some manufacturers) in this forum or thread but it certainly would build/raise consumer confidence in real time and likely sales activity. Lastly, a simple "decision tree" tool to help assess/diagnose the power supply failure would be extremely useful. I'm hopeful that Epson will provide a favorable response to my inquiry.


Excellent idea. Please keep us informed.


----------



## prme19

What or whose settings are you guys using for regular cable/Blu-ray and 4K/HDR viewing? Thanks


----------



## Luís Amaral

Can anyone tell me why i see this problem on color when i am playing HDR movies !
My media player is Zappiti !


----------



## jwhn

Luís Amaral said:


> Can anyone tell me why i see this problem on color when i am playing HDR movies !
> 
> My media player is Zappiti !



You might try isolating the problem. Try a different media player. Eliminate other hardware in your chain until you isolate the cause.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Luís Amaral said:


> Can anyone tell me why i see this problem on color when i am playing HDR movies !
> My media player is Zappiti !





jwhn said:


> You might try isolating the problem. Try a different media player. Eliminate other hardware in your chain until you isolate the cause.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree, try a different media player (with the same film)


----------



## Luís Amaral

Ok i am going to try with Nvidia Shield !


----------



## Mr.G

Lithium said:


> If I want HDR with Netflix or Amazon I use the Samsung K8500's apps which support forcing 12-bit 24Hz HDR.


Also with the Sony X800 Blu-ray player...but I rarely use it since the Netflix UI makes for a wonky affair. I can't get my Roku Premiere+ to do this.


----------



## Deftec

Kyle_Larson said:


> Just got home and confirmed roku ultra does send out 4k hdr at 12bit 4:2:2 with 24 fps through youtube app.
> 
> Netflix app no hdr, just 4k with 12bit 4:2:2. Still looks amazing, but not hdr.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


Thank You Kyle for your research, you solved my mystery. I was able to see BT2020 HDR in my proj info using my Roku Ultra. Even though there are many clips in you tube, we can only see HDR if it is 24hz. I am not sure if there is a way to see HDR on 60hz clips also. 

At least I can have some piece of mind that there is nothing wrong with my proj or my Roku.


----------



## Deftec

prme19 said:


> What or whose settings are you guys using for regular cable/Blu-ray and 4K/HDR viewing? Thanks


Not sure if my answer relates to what you are looking for, I adjusted my proj settings with mix of HarperVison (digital Cinema) + Oledurt (Bright Cinema) (Harper Vision and Oledurt are members of this forum who posted their calibrated settings)


----------



## Brajesh

Lennaert said:


> Hi all,
> 
> New member here, but I have something to contribute here.
> I noticed a lot of people complaining about poor 3D performance, especially 3D ghosting and crosstalk with he Epson TW 9300/5040ub/6040ub.
> I had severe ghosting with my Epson TW9300. I couldn't adjust the settings to get a good 3D picture using the screen size and 3D depth. Either the front of the image was perfect, but then the back was a big mess and vise versa. It drove me nuts for months.
> Yesterday, just before sending the projector in for warranty I finally found what was causing these problems, and I havent seen this mentioned here before.
> 
> Its the IRIS! If the iris is on in 3D playback it causes severe 3D ghosting/crosstalk.
> 
> When i turned the iris off, all the ghosting/crosstalk was gone. Blu Rays like Rogue One, who were unwatchable before now played back in amazing image quality.
> No ghosting whatsoever. The 3D performance is jaw dropping good.
> 
> In 3D, just switch off the iris and see what happens!


Thanks @Lennaert, after just stopping to watch any 3D, I can finally re-start enjoying them. Turning off iris in 3D works for me, at least where 3D is watchable & not a horrible crosstalk / ghosting mess! I had even bought a brand new unit, which also suffered from the same problem. This was just to rule out that my current 5040UB unit wasn't the issue.

Tried a BenQ HT2550, which has a big 3D problem of its own. I flagged the issue & now BenQ is fixing via f/w & a new circuit board before re-shipping. W/3D for me now w/iris off on 5040UB, it's so much better, I may stick w/it vs. re-buying BenQ or Optoma UHD51A. Did want to say, I still see minor crosstalk / ghosting w/5040UB, but overall it's a better PJ (shaprness, contrast, blacks, 4K HDR) than BenQ.


----------



## Frank Q

Hi,

XBOX S seems to have compatibility issues with Epson (4000, 5040, 6040). No matter what I do and what streaming app I use (Netflix, Amazon, Movies & TV) I always see 
Refresh Rate: *60Hz*
Color: *BT709 8 bit SDR*
Chroma: *4.2.0*

Clearly, not good. There are various threads started asking Netflix, XBOX etc. to address this issue. The core issue lies in streaming apps itself and not XBOX. (see below links).

For now, I manually went to Epson Menu->Signal->Advanced->Color Space and changed from Auto to BT2020. This improved color a bit. 


What BD HDR players truly work with Epson ?

Is Philips BDP 7501 the only one ? Sadly, it only has two apps (Netflix and YouTube).


----------



## ayrton

Samsung 8500 does a pretty good job streaming and has more apps.

Only problem I've had was when streaming 60 fps. it won't convert to 24/30 and advertised. When viewing 4K UHD HDR, this is a problem with the 5040..

Check it our on their thread... http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...tra-hd-blu-ray-player-owner-s-thread-456.html


----------



## Frank Q

It appears with both BDP 7501 and Samsung 8500 you are getting chroma sampling of 4.2.2 the best. 

What is preventing Epson to go to 4.4.4. ? I want to get to 4K with 4.4.4 and BT2020 HDR for both streaming apps and disks. 

Thanks


----------



## Frank Q

ayrton said:


> Samsung 8500 does a pretty good job streaming and has more apps.
> 
> Only problem I've had was when streaming 60 fps. it won't convert to 24/30 and advertised. When viewing 4K UHD HDR, this is a problem with the 5040..
> 
> Check it our on their thread... http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...tra-hd-blu-ray-player-owner-s-thread-456.html



In that case you were not able to get HDR with Netflix or other streaming apps correct ?


----------



## prme19

Deftec said:


> Not sure if my answer relates to what you are looking for, I adjusted my proj settings with mix of HarperVison (digital Cinema) + Oledurt (Bright Cinema) (Harper Vision and Oledurt are members of this forum who posted their calibrated settings)


Thanks. Do you use these settings for regular cable/Blu-ray or 4K/HDR? Or both?


----------



## Gibby1104

*Cant seem to get anything to show 16:9*

Just set up 5040 with Elite 120in 16:9 screen. Everything I have tried to play so far which is cable through Uverse and Netflix through Apple TV all has small black bars on top and bottom. The alignment pattern fills the screen. Is this normal? It wont let me choose anything other than Normal on Lens/Zoom. Im a rookie, thanks for input.


----------



## robc1976

Oledurt settings still beat HV at gaming...and this is with contrast clipping at 1000 and I think he has his clipping at 1200. 

Harper vision top
Oledurt bottom









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Oledurt settings still beat HV at gaming...and this is with contrast clipping at 1000 and I think he has his clipping at 1200.
> 
> Harper vision top
> Oledurt bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


These where zoomed in with phone so much clearer in person lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

Mr.G said:


> Also with the Sony X800 Blu-ray player...but I rarely use it since the Netflix UI makes for a wonky affair. I can't get my Roku Premiere+ to do this.


I have the same combo, normally can't get HDR out of Netflix with the X800/5040 but did it get it at 24 Hz just like your pic with Cloverfield Paradox but haven't seen it with anything else yet I think because they're in 60 Hz which the Epson can't do HDR with. What were you watching when you took this screen print?


----------



## Frank Q

Going over Epson's manual this is what it has

*L*a*b* Ultra Wide Color Gamut* — delivers 100% of the 3 dimensional DCI-P3 color gamut *^3*, the digital cinema standard, with 50% wider color gamut than Rec. 709.

*^3* Entire DCI color space can be displayed in *Digital Cinema Mode* only. 


P3 color space is the Film industry standard but BT2020 has more colors than P3 ? 

Which mode do you all use ? Default is "Bright Cinema"


https://www.cnet.com/how-to/what-is-wide-color-gamut-wcg/


----------



## --Sclaws

Brajesh said:


> Thanks @Lennaert, after just stopping to watch any 3D, I can finally re-start enjoying them. Turning off iris in 3D works for me, at least where 3D is watchable & not a horrible crosstalk / ghosting mess! I had even bought a brand new unit, which also suffered from the same problem. This was just to rule out that my current 5040UB unit wasn't the issue.
> 
> Tried a BenQ HT2550, which has a big 3D problem of its own. I flagged the issue & now BenQ is fixing via f/w & a new circuit board before re-shipping. W/3D for me now w/iris off on 5040UB, it's so much better, I may stick w/it vs. re-buying BenQ or Optoma UHD51A. Did want to say, I still see minor crosstalk / ghosting w/5040UB, but overall it's a better PJ (shaprness, contrast, blacks, 4K HDR) than BenQ.


FWIW I also disabled the iris which seemed to help, but increasing my reported screen size to 140" (actual is 110") removed the crosstalk completely with the few discs I've tested (Rogue One, Ant-Man, Ghostbusters 2016).


----------



## Mr.G

Frank Q said:


> It appears with both BDP 7501 and Samsung 8500 you are getting chroma sampling of 4.2.2 the best.
> 
> What is preventing Epson to go to 4.4.4. ? I want to get to 4K with 4.4.4 and BT2020 HDR for both streaming apps and disks.
> 
> Thanks


https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H713020~faq-0000530-plhc5040ub


----------



## Mr.G

WynsWrld98 said:


> I have the same combo, normally can't get HDR out of Netflix with the X800/5040 but did it get it at 24 Hz just like your pic with Cloverfield Paradox but haven't seen it with anything else yet I think because they're in 60 Hz which the Epson can't do HDR with. What were you watching when you took this screen print?


As far as I know all streaming services (Netflix, Amazon, Hulu, VUDU, etc) go out as 24p. When devices receive the stream most convert to 60 Hz unless they have the capability to leave the signal as 24p. Some devices like the newer Roku's can now be set to match the original frame rate but this sometimes introduces problems depending on hardware.

The screenshot was from the Netflix Original Mindhunter. What Netflix encodes as 24p, 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR is a whole other issue, they are inconsistent at best.


----------



## xkandle

Hi—Sorry if this is the wrong forum in which to ask this, but i have two questions related to the 5040UB.

One, the room I have is small, but IF I place the back half of the projector in the window well, I can get up to a 10 foot throw (otherwise it'd be a 113 inch throw), which gets me a 100 inch diagonal image. Unfortunately, this places the projector about 24 inches off-center (maybe a bit less than this, but go with me for now).

However, with horizontal lens shift, I can move the lens 30% to the right, which puts it in the center. Does anyone on this forum use their 5040UB with a similar horizontal shift? I know I lose some vertical shift as I take up more horizontal, but since the 5040UB has 47% horizontal shift I assume I still have some give with the vertical shift.

Relatedly, does anyone have experience placing the projector against a window or wall? I know the manual indicates that there should be some clearance, but I'm trying to get away with as little as possible, at least for the back half of the projector (7-8 inches).


----------



## ayrton

Frank Q said:


> In that case you were not able to get HDR with Netflix or other streaming apps correct ?


I could play Netflix 4K UHD HDR at 24fps. (which is most of their content.) Just not 60 fps..

I don't do a lot of streameng. Mostly 4K and 1080P Blu Ray disks..


----------



## Brajesh

--Sclaws said:


> FWIW I also disabled the iris which seemed to help, but increasing my reported screen size to 140" (actual is 110") removed the crosstalk completely with the few discs I've tested (Rogue One, Ant-Man, Ghostbusters 2016).


You're right, this helps additionally. I have a 100" screen and I choose 140" and ghosting/crosstalk are further reduced, most times non-existent. Thanks!

Weird how this and disabling auto iris do the trick, but they do!


----------



## mrdh68

Lu?s Amaral said:


> Ok i am going to try with Nvidia Shield !


Hi from Portugal! 
I get the same projector and the same problem with the Zidoo X10. I think that might be from the Realtek SoC and also the Epson because the projector cannot accept 4k at 4.4.4 12 bit and those are the settings you might need to use to eliminate banding. The Epson TW9300 have HDMI limited to 10.2 Gbps, so it support only 4.2.2 at 12 bit @ max 25 hz.
Set Color depth: 12bit and [email protected] hz to watch UHD 10 bit movie. You have to live with the banding effect. Some movie are worse than others and you'll notice it more in blue skies and foggy environments.


----------



## Brajesh

I have both nVidia Shield & Zidoo X9S... I get perfect HDR and no banding w/Epson 5040UB...

> nVidia Shield: [email protected] (@23.976/24/30 also work), then pick 4:2:2 12-bit Rec2020 in the HDMI advanced menu

> Zidoo X9S: 3840x2160p/24 / 12-bit / YCbCr 4:2:0 / limited HDMI range

Only [email protected] HDR/10bit is rendered in 8-bit due to 10.2Gbps limitation.


----------



## jdtsmith

Can someone please post a short pro/con list for the UHD bluray players that are compatible with the 5040UB? Lots of player incompatibility info on this thread seems outdated. 

E.g.:


Samsung UBD-M8500
LG UP870
Sony UBP-X800
Philips BDP7502
OPPO UDP-203 

Thanks!


----------



## seplant

Frank Q said:


> Going over Epson's manual this is what it has
> 
> *L*a*b* Ultra Wide Color Gamut* — delivers 100% of the 3 dimensional DCI-P3 color gamut *^3*, the digital cinema standard, with 50% wider color gamut than Rec. 709.
> 
> *^3* Entire DCI color space can be displayed in *Digital Cinema Mode* only.
> 
> 
> P3 color space is the Film industry standard but BT2020 has more colors than P3 ?
> 
> Which mode do you all use ? Default is "Bright Cinema"
> 
> 
> https://www.cnet.com/how-to/what-is-wide-color-gamut-wcg/


Full P3 is available only when the cinema filter engages, and that is only in "Digital Cinema" and "Cinema" modes. "Bright Cinema" does not engage the cinema filter (I know, so why did they include "Cinema" in the name?). However, be aware that the cinema filter reduces the light output of the projector. HDR content is already dark, and with the additional light attenuation from the cinema filter, HDR content displayed in one of the cinema modes is disappointing to many users. Many people are choosing to switch to "Natural" or "Bright Cinema" modes and improve brightness enough to experience the "HDR effect" instead of the wider color gamut. Which mode you use is really up to your personal preference.


----------



## mrdh68

Brajesh said:


> I have both nVidia Shield & Zidoo X9S... I get perfect HDR and no banding w/Epson 5040UB...
> 
> > nVidia Shield: [email protected] (@23.976/24/30 also work), then pick 4:2:2 12-bit Rec2020 in the HDMI advanced menu
> 
> > Zidoo X9S: 3840x2160p/24 / 12-bit / 0YCbCr 4:2:0 / limited HDMI range
> 
> Only [email protected] HDR/10bit is rendered in 8-bit due to 10.2Gbps limitation.


I pretty sure that with Zidoo you won't get YCbCr 4:2:0, but 4:2:2. Just check in the projector info. I don't get banding with FHD with BT709. There's a lot of people complaining about banding. The only possible problem might be the hdmi cable but that's unlikely because it's digital data.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Just FYI I am testing Apple TV 4K with Epson now and here is some info (sorry if repetition):

Netflix: 4K + HDR works with ATV 4K when the input is switched to 24p on the box (not to confuse with Epson info screen as we know it shows the signal Epson is getting with possible upscaling by the box in the chain so this can be misleading).

I am saying this based on Netflix displaying 4K Ultra HD logos (meaning 4K + HDR included) next to the movie titles, this is different than on the Shield (Shield shows HDR for instance which means you are getting FHD + HDR from Netflix while 4K upscaling is done by the Shield)


----------



## Luís Amaral

Juiced46 said:


> I agree, try a different media player (with the same film)





mrdh68 said:


> I pretty sure that with Zidoo you won't get YCbCr 4:2:0, but 4:2:2. Just check in the projector info. I don't get banding with FHD with BT709. There's a lot of people complaining about banding. The only possible problem might be the hdmi cable but that's unlikely because it's digital data.


I send a email to Zappiti complaint about the Banding and they said that the best settings for Zappiti for this PJ are:

10 Bit
YCbCr 444

I think already tested this but later i will test again !


----------



## kbarnes701

xkandle said:


> Hi—Sorry if this is the wrong forum in which to ask this, but i have two questions related to the 5040UB.
> 
> One, the room I have is small, but IF I place the back half of the projector in the window well, I can get up to a 10 foot throw (otherwise it'd be a 113 inch throw), which gets me a 100 inch diagonal image. Unfortunately, this places the projector about 24 inches off-center (maybe a bit less than this, but go with me for now).
> 
> However, with horizontal lens shift, I can move the lens 30% to the right, which puts it in the center. Does anyone on this forum use their 5040UB with a similar horizontal shift? I know I lose some vertical shift as I take up more horizontal, but since the 5040UB has 47% horizontal shift I assume I still have some give with the vertical shift.
> 
> Relatedly, does anyone have experience placing the projector against a window or wall? I know the manual indicates that there should be some clearance, but I'm trying to get away with as little as possible, at least for the back half of the projector (7-8 inches).


In my old room I had a similar situation. You will be OK - the lens shift is there to be used. And the air intake for cooling is on the front of the machine at one side, with the exhaust at the other side. Go ahead and enjoy!


----------



## xkandle

kbarnes701 said:


> In my old room I had a similar situation. You will be OK - the lens shift is there to be used. And the air intake for cooling is on the front of the machine at one side, with the exhaust at the other side. Go ahead and enjoy!


Thanks! This is really reassuring. I'm thisclose to getting the Epson.


----------



## TravisBean

Please excuse this newbie/novice question (I've never owned a projector before) but does this projector have a built in clock that keeps track of how many in use hours have passed so you know when it's time to change the lamp ?


----------



## gene4ht

TravisBean said:


> Please excuse this newbie/novice question (I've never owned a projector before) but does this projector have a built in clock that keeps track of how many in use hours have passed so you know when it's time to change the lamp ?


Yes..most projectors track lamp hours...it's found in one of the menus. If you look at some of the previous posts, you should see an example.

Edit: found a link for you...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-441.html#post55715902


----------



## Uppsalaing

Gibby1104 said:


> Just set up 5040 with Elite 120in 16:9 screen. Everything I have tried to play so far which is cable through Uverse and Netflix through Apple TV all has small black bars on top and bottom. The alignment pattern fills the screen. Is this normal? It wont let me choose anything other than Normal on Lens/Zoom. Im a rookie, thanks for input.


It's normal...

The full screen is a 1.78:1 ratio
Most movies are 1.85:1 ratio or 2.35:1 ratio so will have black bars top and bottom.

You can use the lens zoom to get rid of the black bars by having the image zoomed out until the the black bars are off screen. Then save earch setting to a preset.

You can access two lens presets directly from the remote lens preset buttons and can save up to 10 presets that can be accessed from the menus.

I'd suggest saving your current set up now and then using it as a base to make new presets.

Download the manual if you don't have it handy, it's useful and the aspect ratio stuff gets pretty easy once you get your head around it.


----------



## terminal33

MartyMcFlyy said:


> Just FYI I am testing Apple TV 4K with Epson now and here is some info (sorry if repetition):
> 
> Netflix: 4K + HDR works with ATV 4K when the input is switched to 24p on the box (not to confuse with Epson info screen as we know it shows the signal Epson is getting with possible upscaling by the box in the chain so this can be misleading).
> 
> I am saying this based on Netflix displaying 4K Ultra HD logos (meaning 4K + HDR included) next to the movie titles, this is different than on the Shield (Shield shows HDR for instance which means you are getting FHD + HDR from Netflix while 4K upscaling is done by the Shield)


Do you see a noticeable picture upgrade with the ATV? I have the Shield, but I'm always bothered that I can't get 4K HDR with Netflix. I'm tempted to get the ATV through the DirecTV Now deal and would probably do it if there is a big enough of PQ improvement. Thanks.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

terminal33 said:


> Do you see a noticeable picture upgrade with the ATV? I have the Shield, but I'm always bothered that I can't get 4K HDR with Netflix. I'm tempted to get the ATV through the DirecTV Now deal and would probably do it if there is a big enough of PQ improvement. Thanks.


IMHO the differences are not big comparing to shield's FHD + HDR upscaled to 4K (having watched some movie samples on both I can hardly tell the difference). By any means it is not bad on NVS since it's still upscaled to 4K by the box itself. I also have shield by the way. 
ATV Netflix's menu is clearer and you can see higher resolution there on the movie icons. Apart from that you see 4K Ultra HD logos or D.Vision/HDR here and there, which was not that noticable/frequent on NVS on Epson.

Do you have an option to try it and see for yourself with return option just in case ? 


I was looking primarily for airplay from other apple devices and 4K HDR itunes library..Netflix in 4K was a bonus


----------



## nathan

*6040UB for mostly non 1080p content?*

I'm being pointed at the 6040ub by my local distributor and have a question that I didn't see an answer to yet. I'm being told that another difference between it and the 5040ub is that the 6040ub has 'hand picked' LCDs (better contrast?, longer life?). I would guess this is kind of like CPUs where if they perform at a certain level the same chip may get sold differently. Any truth to that? It makes a certain kind of sense, but could be total BS as well.

I'm upgrading my bat-cave from a 9" CRT. It has had a good life. Black levels are why I'm looking at one of these two PJs. However, I'm mostly going to watch 1080p content, pretty much movies only. I like the idea of 4K enhancement of my existing media, but I'm likely to be slow adopting 4K. It sounds like I can get better 1080p picture quality out of a good 1080p pixel shifter, but is it enough to pay more for? Is there something that I'd be as happy with in a straight 1080p PJ? I'm a little gun shy on the $$$. I actually started out with a Optoma UHZ65. It was amazing, until the DLP rainbow effect kicked in and drove me batty. Now, I think I'll try a spend a little less for my first digital projector. 

So, given my likely use case, should I go with one of these Epsons and try and get 3-4 years out of it until I decide I must have 4K or should I go even cheaper now and wait a couple of years to see where things end up in the true 4K PJ market?


----------



## Dominic Chan

nathan said:


> I'm being pointed at the 6040ub by my local distributor and have a question that I didn't see an answer to yet. I'm being told that another difference between it and the 5040ub is that the 6040ub has 'hand picked' LCDs (better contrast?, longer life?). I would guess this is kind of like CPUs where if they perform at a certain level the same chip may get sold differently. Any truth to that? It makes a certain kind of sense, but could be total BS as well.


Unlike CPUs, the 6040ub and 5040ub have the same spec - 2500 lumens, 1,000,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio.


----------



## TravisBean

nathan said:


> So, given my likely use case, should I go with one of these Epsons and try and get 3-4 years out of it until I decide I must have 4K or should I go even cheaper now and wait a couple of years to see where things end up in the true 4K PJ market?


Excellent question.


----------



## gene4ht

nathan said:


> I'm being pointed at the 6040ub by my local distributor and have a question that I didn't see an answer to yet. I'm being told that another difference between it and the 5040ub is that the 6040ub has 'hand picked' LCDs (better contrast?, longer life?). I would guess this is kind of like CPUs where if they perform at a certain level the same chip may get sold differently. Any truth to that? It makes a certain kind of sense, but could be total BS as well.
> 
> I'm upgrading my bat-cave from a 9" CRT. It has had a good life. Black levels are why I'm looking at one of these two PJs. However, I'm mostly going to watch 1080p content, pretty much movies only. I like the idea of 4K enhancement of my existing media, but I'm likely to be slow adopting 4K. It sounds like I can get better 1080p picture quality out of a good 1080p pixel shifter, but is it enough to pay more for? Is there something that I'd be as happy with in a straight 1080p PJ? I'm a little gun shy on the $$$. I actually started out with a Optoma UHZ65. It was amazing, until the DLP rainbow effect kicked in and drove me batty. Now, I think I'll try a spend a little less for my first digital projector.
> 
> So, given my likely use case, should I go with one of these Epsons and try and get 3-4 years out of it until I decide I must have 4K or should I go even cheaper now and wait a couple of years to see where things end up in the true 4K PJ market?


As I’m not aware of “hand picked” LCD’s for the 6040, I cannot comment on the claim. WRT the 5040’s performance with 1080 content, I can definitely attest to its very fine and extremely capable ability to upscale to 4K...absolutely breathtakingly! However, be aware that out of the box, all current projectors are incapable of doing justice with HDR content...just not bright enough yet...compared to flat panels. Enthusiast and tweekers therefore experiment with the setting parameters to improve results. Some members here have obtained very good results and posted their settings. IMO, given your use case, the 5040/6040, with its pixel shift technology, will easily reward you with excellent PQ for 3-4 years. I too anticipate upgrading to true 4K within that timeframe.


----------



## LoneWolf121188

Hi all, I almost pulled the trigger on a 5040UB this weekend, but then I saw the Known Issues on the first post of this thread and it made me hesitate...not sure if this is the right projector for me or not.

I use an Xbox One S almost exclusively as my video source, and a Sony DN1080 AVR (with 4k upscaling). Content is generally Netflix/Amazon streaming through the Xbox, or games such as Assassins Creed Origins (which is 4K & HDR). 

I saw the note on the first post about the 10 Gbps HDMI chip limitation and I'm concerned about the futureproof-ness of this projector. With more and more content coming out every day in 4k & HDR, I'd really like to get a projector that can display that content reasonably well without jumping up to a Sony 285ES. My budget is really about $2k, but I can stretch it a bit to get a used 5040UB.

My room is 100% light controlled (the vast, vast majority of my viewing is after sunset anyway), and I have a 95" EliteScreens Spectrum 2. I currently use an Epson 8350. I figure with a relatively small screen, the HDR picture should still look fairly bright, right?

Will I see a $2000 difference between what I have now and the 5040UB? Or should I wait for a projector that has a full 18 Gbps HDMI chip?


----------



## jwhn

jdtsmith said:


> Can someone please post a short pro/con list for the UHD bluray players that are compatible with the 5040UB? Lots of player incompatibility info on this thread seems outdated.
> 
> 
> 
> E.g.:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Samsung UBD-M8500
> 
> LG UP870
> 
> Sony UBP-X800
> 
> Philips BDP7502
> 
> OPPO UDP-203
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!



All of these should be compatible but I would make sure you can do a return if needed.

Oppo - Good if budget is not an issue and you insist on the highest quality player and picture. New firmware updates include features to do HDR tone mapping that some are experimenting with. This player does not do any streaming.

Panasonic UB900 - also top quality picture at a premium but less $ than the Oppo. It does do streaming too. I'm not up on the specific apps but you should be able to find that. 

The Sony and Samsung are decent players and also have streaming. Sony seems to be a bit higher quality but just my take. You likely can only tell the difference in PQ between these and the top players if you have a discerning eye.

The Phillips is also a decent player but it only streams Netflix and YouTube. I actually just picked one up on eBay for cheap to use mainly as a Netflix box to stream 4K HDR.

I haven't tried the LG.

So the main decision factors seem to be whether you want streaming, how particular you are about picture quality, whether you plan to watch a lot of HDR (and therefore could benefit from the new Oppo features), and budget (there is a wide range of pricing levels).




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

LoneWolf121188 said:


> Hi all, I almost pulled the trigger on a 5040UB this weekend, but then I saw the Known Issues on the first post of this thread and it made me hesitate...not sure if this is the right projector for me or not.
> 
> 
> 
> I use an Xbox One S almost exclusively as my video source, and a Sony DN1080 AVR (with 4k upscaling). Content is generally Netflix/Amazon streaming through the Xbox, or games such as Assassins Creed Origins (which is 4K & HDR).
> 
> 
> 
> I saw the note on the first post about the 10 Gbps HDMI chip limitation and I'm concerned about the futureproof-ness of this projector. With more and more content coming out every day in 4k & HDR, I'd really like to get a projector that can display that content reasonably well without jumping up to a Sony 285ES. My budget is really about $2k, but I can stretch it a bit to get a used 5040UB.
> 
> 
> 
> My room is 100% light controlled (the vast, vast majority of my viewing is after sunset anyway), and I have a 95" EliteScreens Spectrum 2. I currently use an Epson 8350. I figure with a relatively small screen, the HDR picture should still look fairly bright, right?
> 
> 
> 
> Will I see a $2000 difference between what I have now and the 5040UB? Or should I wait for a projector that has a full 18 Gbps HDMI chip?



You would need another streaming box to do Netflix HDR as the Xbox won't. It might do Amazon but it might not. I forgot.

Apple TV or Nvidia Shield are two options for streaming.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ninjamini

LoneWolf121188 said:


> Hi all, I almost pulled the trigger on a 5040UB this weekend, but then I saw the Known Issues on the first post of this thread and it made me hesitate...not sure if this is the right projector for me or not.


Well I can tell you that I had this projector and it had the power supply issue after watching 5 movies. Just would not power on. It went back to the store and now I have to figure out what to purchase. It was a really good looking projector while it lasted, which was not that long.


----------



## nathan

Dominic Chan said:


> Unlike CPUs, the 6040ub and 5040ub have the same spec - 2500 lumens, 1,000,000:1 dynamic contrast ratio.


True, you would think they would at least bump the specs if they thought they were somehow better. Thanks


----------



## Uppsalaing

nathan said:


> True, you would think they would at least bump the specs if they thought they were somehow better. Thanks


I think the 6040 can do anamorphic, which is one of the selling points... I have the European version TW-9300 that can do that and also has an additional wireless module as well...


----------



## LumensLover

ninjamini said:


> Well I can tell you that I had this projector and it had the power supply issue after watching 5 movies. Just would not power on. It went back to the store and now I have to figure out what to purchase. It was a really good looking projector while it lasted, which was not that long.


Makes me wonder why you never see any refurbished 5040s for sale on Epson. Maybe their refurbished 5040 inventory is constantly being sent out for replacement so they never have any to resale.


----------



## gibsonm21

LoneWolf121188 said:


> Hi all, I almost pulled the trigger on a 5040UB this weekend, but then I saw the Known Issues on the first post of this thread and it made me hesitate...not sure if this is the right projector for me or not.
> 
> I use an Xbox One S almost exclusively as my video source, and a Sony DN1080 AVR (with 4k upscaling). Content is generally Netflix/Amazon streaming through the Xbox, or games such as Assassins Creed Origins (which is 4K & HDR).
> 
> I saw the note on the first post about the 10 Gbps HDMI chip limitation and I'm concerned about the futureproof-ness of this projector. With more and more content coming out every day in 4k & HDR, I'd really like to get a projector that can display that content reasonably well without jumping up to a Sony 285ES. My budget is really about $2k, but I can stretch it a bit to get a used 5040UB.
> 
> My room is 100% light controlled (the vast, vast majority of my viewing is after sunset anyway), and I have a 95" EliteScreens Spectrum 2. I currently use an Epson 8350. I figure with a relatively small screen, the HDR picture should still look fairly bright, right?
> 
> Will I see a $2000 difference between what I have now and the 5040UB? Or should I wait for a projector that has a full 18 Gbps HDMI chip?


Future proof and projector should never go in the same sentence lol. I use my XB 1s as my media server with my 5040 and I'm perfectly content. Netflix streams 4k, but not HDR, but Amazon will stream 4K w/ HDR. 


As far as the machine itself, I absolutely love it and would buy it again over the budget 4K DLP offerings because the lens shift, focus and memory settings are worth the price alone. I also prefer the picture over my neighbor's Optoma (which I put him on to)










1500 hrs and no issues.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

LoneWolf121188 said:


> Hi all, I almost pulled the trigger on a 5040UB this weekend, but then I saw the Known Issues on the first post of this thread and it made me hesitate...not sure if this is the right projector for me or not.
> 
> I use an Xbox One S almost exclusively as my video source, and a Sony DN1080 AVR (with 4k upscaling). Content is generally Netflix/Amazon streaming through the Xbox, or games such as Assassins Creed Origins (which is 4K & HDR).
> 
> I saw the note on the first post about the 10 Gbps HDMI chip limitation and I'm concerned about the futureproof-ness of this projector. With more and more content coming out every day in 4k & HDR, I'd really like to get a projector that can display that content reasonably well without jumping up to a Sony 285ES. My budget is really about $2k, but I can stretch it a bit to get a used 5040UB.
> 
> My room is 100% light controlled (the vast, vast majority of my viewing is after sunset anyway), and I have a 95" EliteScreens Spectrum 2. I currently use an Epson 8350. I figure with a relatively small screen, the HDR picture should still look fairly bright, right?
> 
> Will I see a $2000 difference between what I have now and the 5040UB? Or should I wait for a projector that has a full 18 Gbps HDMI chip?


I am not sure if you are aware but 285ES dosn't have 18gbps hdmi.


----------



## exm

jwhn said:


> You would need another streaming box to do Netflix HDR as the Xbox won't. It might do Amazon but it might not. I forgot.
> 
> Apple TV or Nvidia Shield are two options for streaming.


Roku Ultra is your friend.


----------



## jwhn

exm said:


> Roku Ultra is your friend.




Not really. To stream Netflix HDR you need to be able to stream at 24hz. The Roku doesn't work. I tried it but returned it the same day. Wasn't my friend. ; )

The Shield is the best I've tried but haven't tried the new Apple TV.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## exm

jwhn said:


> Not really. To stream Netflix HDR you need to be able to stream at 24hz. The Roku doesn't work. I tried it but returned it the same day. Wasn't my friend. ; )
> 
> The Shield is the best I've tried but haven't tried the new Apple TV.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The latest Roku FW fixes that limitation: https://www.cordcuttersnews.com/first-look-roku-os-8-major-changes-new-home-screen/

You can now configure your Roku player for 24, 25, 30, or 60 Hz HDMI output based on your audiovisual equipment and viewing preferences.


----------



## jwhn

exm said:


> The latest Roku FW fixes that limitation: https://www.cordcuttersnews.com/first-look-roku-os-8-major-changes-new-home-screen/
> 
> You can now configure your Roku player for 24, 25, 30, or 60 Hz HDMI output based on your audiovisual equipment and viewing preferences.




Have you verified that Netflix HDR works with the Epson? There are very recent posts still reporting problems. See post #13189 for example.

I have not seen a single report of it working without getting a linker.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## exm

jwhn said:


> Have you verified that Netflix HDR works with the Epson? There are very recent posts still reporting problems. See post #13189 for example.
> 
> I have not seen a single report of it working without getting a linker.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, I haven't but I can take a look. However, HDR streaming is not something I'm interested in anyway (maybe in the future) since pretty much none of the 4K/HDR streaming services are free.


----------



## jwhn

exm said:


> No, I haven't but I can take a look. However, HDR streaming is not something I'm interested in anyway (maybe in the future) since pretty much none of the 4K/HDR streaming services are free.


No need to take a look. I'm confident it doesn't work. Just clarifying for others b/c if you've read through this read you would know that there is tons of confusion about getting 4K and HDR to work on Netflix.


----------



## ayrton

jwhn said:


> Have you verified that Netflix HDR works with the Epson? There are very recent posts still reporting problems. See post #13189 for example.
> 
> I have not seen a single report of it working without getting a linker.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If I remember correctly I streamed Netflix HDR on my Sammy 8500 at *24 fps* Not so much at 60...

Will check again this evening and post..


----------



## jwhn

ayrton said:


> If I remember correctly I streamed Netflix HDR on my Sammy 8500 at *24 fps* Not so much at 60...
> 
> Will check again this evening and post..


Yes, I've done the same. Most of the UHD players will stream Netflix in 4K/HDR. This has been covered extensively in this thread. 

I was just trying to help the original poster. He has a budget of $2K for the Epson and I was merely pointing out that he will likely need another streaming device (either the ones I mentioned or a UHD player that streams) in order to achieve his objective. You are right in that he could also get a UHD player that streams, but since he already has an XBox it seems as though a pure streaming device might be a good option.


----------



## NetViper

MartyMcFlyy said:


> I am not sure if you are aware but 285ES dosn't have 18gbps hdmi.


Not only is it not 18 Gbps, I converts color to 8bit for 4k hdr 60. Imo the 5040 with the hd linker is much better buy. Someone said the 285 looks much better for gaming but I have hard time thinking it’s any better than a 5040+linker. I could be wrong.


----------



## Deftec

prme19 said:


> Thanks. Do you use these settings for regular cable/Blu-ray or 4K/HDR? Or both?


I don't watch cable most of them are movies from apps or youtube content, my setting is same for everything i watch. I still have to do some more adjustments as i see colors are washed out for me.


----------



## Deftec

robc1976 said:


> Oledurt settings still beat HV at gaming...and this is with contrast clipping at 1000 and I think he has his clipping at 1200.
> 
> Harper vision top
> Oledurt bottom
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Mine looks opposite oledurt on left and HV+Oledurt on right.


----------



## Frank Q

Hi,

I just purchased BDP7501. My goal is to get 4K 24p HDR output since Epson fails to do HDR with 4K 60p.

I set the 4K 60p output on BD to OFF. 24p Output is set to Auto. When I play a UHD movie on Netflix like Planet Earth or Marco Polo I neither get 4K nor HDR. It shows BT709 SDR (4.4.4.) with refresh rate of 60Hz and resolution is 1080.

If I turn on 4K 60p then I do get 4K resolution but BT709 SDR (4.2.0) and not HDR. Does Netflix not at all support 24p movies ? I thought this player was compatible with Epson 5040.


----------



## LoneWolf121188

gibsonm21 said:


> Future proof and projector should never go in the same sentence lol. I use my XB 1s as my media server with my 5040 and I'm perfectly content. Netflix streams 4k, but not HDR, but Amazon will stream 4K w/ HDR.
> As far as the machine itself, I absolutely love it and would buy it again over the budget 4K DLP offerings because the lens shift, focus and memory settings are worth the price alone. I also prefer the picture over my neighbor's Optoma (which I put him on to)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1500 hrs and no issues.


Haha valid on the futureproof comment. I really meant for 3ish years...I bought my current Epson 8350 in May 2015, so 3 years seems like a reasonably upgrade timeline for me.



LumensLover said:


> Makes me wonder why you never see any refurbished 5040s for sale on Epson. Maybe their refurbished 5040 inventory is constantly being sent out for replacement so they never have any to resale.


I know, I've been keeping my eyes peeled for a refurb but I haven't seen any yet! I got my 8350 as a refurb and it performed the same as brand new. Epson even sent me a new bulb for free when my first one burned out at 1500 hrs, I just had to ask nicely. 



jwhn said:


> You would need another streaming box to do Netflix HDR as the Xbox won't. It might do Amazon but it might not. I forgot.
> 
> Apple TV or Nvidia Shield are two options for streaming.


Thanks. I'm thinking about the Shield, as I have a lot of PC games I'd love to play on my projector. The Shield can stream any game from your PC, right? I have a GTX 1080, so GPU horsepower on the PC side is definitely no issue. 



MartyMcFlyy said:


> I am not sure if you are aware but 285ES dosn't have 18gbps hdmi.


I was not, thanks! I just assumed a $5k Sony projector would have at least that feature.


----------



## jwhn

Frank Q said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just purchased BDP7501. My goal is to get 4K 24p HDR output since Epson fails to do HDR with 4K 60p.
> 
> I set the 4K 60p output on BD to OFF. 24p Output is set to Auto. When I play a UHD movie on Netflix like Planet Earth or Marco Polo I neither get 4K nor HDR. It shows BT709 SDR (4.4.4.) with refresh rate of 60Hz and resolution is 1080.
> 
> If I turn on 4K 60p then I do get 4K resolution but BT709 SDR (4.2.0) and not HDR. Does Netflix not at all support 24p movies ? I thought this player was compatible with Epson 5040.


I hope it wasn't me that led you astray. There are reports early in this thread that state it is compatible. But then I see some that suggest it isn't. Sometimes things get thrown off with firmware updates. Not sure.

The Philips might still be one of the UHD players that won't properly stream Netflix (meaning both 4K and HDR). I do believe most of the other UHD players do. I personally was able to with the Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic when I tried them. But that was a while ago. 

Hopefully you can exchange it. Again, apologies if I led you astray.


----------



## jwhn

LoneWolf121188 said:


> Thanks. I'm thinking about the Shield, as I have a lot of PC games I'd love to play on my projector. The Shield can stream any game from your PC, right? I have a GTX 1080, so GPU horsepower on the PC side is definitely no issue.  .


I'm actually not sure. Never tried that...


----------



## jdtsmith

Thanks very much for a great description. Obviously the whole point of a UHD player is picture quality. So I'm wondering, how does picture quality enter? Local on-device 1080P upscaling? Otherwise, shouldn't the same UHD signal be passed over HDMI to the PJ? Do all of these max out at the same 4:2:2 24fps 4K signal? I'm using ATV for my streaming, so that's not a concern, but the Oppo and Panasonic prices do seem quite high...



jwhn said:


> All of these should be compatible but I would make sure you can do a return if needed.
> 
> Oppo - Good if budget is not an issue and you insist on the highest quality player and picture. New firmware updates include features to do HDR tone mapping that some are experimenting with. This player does not do any streaming.
> 
> Panasonic UB900 - also top quality picture at a premium but less $ than the Oppo. It does do streaming too. I'm not up on the specific apps but you should be able to find that.
> 
> The Sony and Samsung are decent players and also have streaming. Sony seems to be a bit higher quality but just my take. You likely can only tell the difference in PQ between these and the top players if you have a discerning eye.
> 
> The Phillips is also a decent player but it only streams Netflix and YouTube. I actually just picked one up on eBay for cheap to use mainly as a Netflix box to stream 4K HDR.
> 
> I haven't tried the LG.
> 
> So the main decision factors seem to be whether you want streaming, how particular you are about picture quality, whether you plan to watch a lot of HDR (and therefore could benefit from the new Oppo features), and budget (there is a wide range of pricing levels).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jdtsmith

So, just unboxed my new 5040UB. Impressions: it is so BIG! I guess I knew it, but as I mostly work with portable office projectors, this threw me. But also: well-built! Makes you imagine doing a shot like the opening scene of Star Wars with the white side gliding past the viewer for 2 minutes. 

Anyway, what should I check into first? It powers on, fan noise seems... more than expected (but it's sitting next to me on the dining room table). Lens focus/shift work fine. "0h" on the lamp .

My HT is a mess in progress, so mostly just want to check into the quality of the unit I got. Suggestions appreciated!

PS: Was looking into replacement bulbs. Do people by the entire bulb housing or just the bulb itself? Not sure why the entire housing seems the most common listing.


----------



## jwhn

jdtsmith said:


> Thanks very much for a great description. Obviously the whole point of a UHD player is picture quality. So I'm wondering, how does picture quality enter? Local on-device 1080P upscaling? Otherwise, shouldn't the same UHD signal be passed over HDMI to the PJ? Do all of these max out at the same 4:2:2 24fps 4K signal? I'm using ATV for my streaming, so that's not a concern, but the Oppo and Panasonic prices do seem quite high...


Not sure why one player would look better than others. I found its pretty hard to tell but some have stated they see differences. You might just try a couple of them.


----------



## robc1976

Deftec said:


> Mine looks opposite oledurt on left and HV+Oledurt on right.


On movie Harper vision looks better, on game it doesn't. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Deftec said:


> Mine looks opposite oledurt on left and HV+Oledurt on right.


Something looks off with your oledurt settings. The green looks completely muted

You have signal menu on

Expanded
Auto
HDR (auto bright)

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

jwhn said:


> I hope it wasn't me that led you astray. There are reports early in this thread that state it is compatible. But then I see some that suggest it isn't. Sometimes things get thrown off with firmware updates. Not sure.
> 
> The Philips might still be one of the UHD players that won't properly stream Netflix (meaning both 4K and HDR). I do believe most of the other UHD players do. I personally was able to with the Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic when I tried them. But that was a while ago.
> 
> Hopefully you can exchange it. Again, apologies if I led you astray.


Epson 5040/Sony X800 owner, the only Netflix title I've seen stream 4K 24 Hz HDR is Cloverfield Paradox. I had been thinking all I would ever get is 4K 60 Hz SDR from Netflix to Epson and was surprised by this title. I see no Hz settings in the X800 that look like they'd affect streaming.


----------



## WynsWrld98

exm said:


> The latest Roku FW fixes that limitation: https://www.cordcuttersnews.com/first-look-roku-os-8-major-changes-new-home-screen/
> 
> You can now configure your Roku player for 24, 25, 30, or 60 Hz HDMI output based on your audiovisual equipment and viewing preferences.


Who has a Roku 4K (e.g., Ultra) and 5040 and has tried it with refresh rate set to Auto and can comment on what refresh rate they get while playing various Netflix 4K content? This article talks about the ability to set refresh rate to Auto or force it, just curious if set to Auto what you get out of Netflix 4K content and if you're getting it with HDR at the 5040.


----------



## jwhn

WynsWrld98 said:


> Epson 5040/Sony X800 owner, the only Netflix title I've seen stream 4K 24 Hz HDR is Cloverfield Paradox. I had been thinking all I would ever get is 4K 60 Hz SDR from Netflix to Epson and was surprised by this title. I see no Hz settings in the X800 that look like they'd affect streaming.


Very strange if you only get that title in 4K / HDR. What happens if you try Marco Polo or Stranger Things?


----------



## jwhn

WynsWrld98 said:


> Who has a Roku 4K (e.g., Ultra) and 5040 and has tried it with refresh rate set to Auto and can comment on what refresh rate they get while playing various Netflix 4K content? This article talks about the ability to set refresh rate to Auto or force it, just curious if set to Auto what you get out of Netflix 4K content and if you're getting it with HDR at the 5040.


Here is a post from 3 days ago that may partially answer your question.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-440.html#post55712254


----------



## WynsWrld98

jwhn said:


> Here is a post from 3 days ago that may partially answer your question.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-440.html#post55712254


The poster didn't state if they had the Roku in Auto for refresh rate or forced to 24 Hz, curious about this. I like the idea of native because I'd hate to put it in forced 24 Hz then it convert from 60 Hz to 24 Hz which would cause problems in the picture quality.


----------



## WynsWrld98

jwhn said:


> Very strange if you only get that title in 4K / HDR. What happens if you try Marco Polo or Stranger Things?


4K 60 Hz SDR


----------



## jwhn

WynsWrld98 said:


> 4K 60 Hz SDR


I found these instructions. Let me know if they work.

"To get Netflix to show HDR, I did have to change the settings on the Sony X800, under screen settings, 24P Output, I change Network Content to Auto, it was set to off.

When this setting is off, then it defaults to 59.93Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0 and SDR on my Epson 5040.

When I turn this setting to auto, it switches to 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 and HDR"


----------



## TravisBean

How well does the 2d to 3d function work on this projector ?


----------



## WynsWrld98

jwhn said:


> I found these instructions. Let me know if they work.
> 
> "To get Netflix to show HDR, I did have to change the settings on the Sony X800, under screen settings, 24P Output, I change Network Content to Auto, it was set to off.
> 
> When this setting is off, then it defaults to 59.93Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0 and SDR on my Epson 5040.
> 
> When I turn this setting to auto, it switches to 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 and HDR"


Thanks so much will try this!


----------



## Frank Q

jwhn said:


> I hope it wasn't me that led you astray. There are reports early in this thread that state it is compatible. But then I see some that suggest it isn't. Sometimes things get thrown off with firmware updates. Not sure.
> 
> The Philips might still be one of the UHD players that won't properly stream Netflix (meaning both 4K and HDR). I do believe most of the other UHD players do. I personally was able to with the Samsung, Sony, and Panasonic when I tried them. But that was a while ago.
> 
> Hopefully you can exchange it. Again, apologies if I led you astray.



There are folks who got it to work with BDP7501. Not sure what settings they kept. For all those who are getting HDR with Netflix, what download speed are you getting when streaming ? Info menu shows that usually. In my case it shows 15.26Mbps. 
Using Sony STRN 1080 receiver.


----------



## craddod

*Intermittent Artifacts*

I am new to the forum having just purchased an Epson TW9300W and Oppo 203. 
















I believe I have all the correct settings on the Oppo 203 - 4k @24hz, 4:2:2 and 12-bit. 
But every so often I get a small imperfection / artefact on part of the screen for a split second when playing a number of different UHD blu-rays. The imperfection is some additional picture noise but only on a part of the screen. It's the same effect (but covering less of the screen and not continuous) as when you increase the settings beyond the bit rate that the projector can cope with. But these settings I have selected are below 10gbts.
I've changed the HDMI cables and changed to a different 4k Blu-ray player and get the same issue. It seems more pronounced on certain 9300 picture settings - auto bright is worse than digital cinema, but digital cinema does not completely eliminate it.
I am using the wireless transmitter but this is showing as full signal and I don't get the issue when using my Sky Q through the transmitter (not 4k or HDR)


Can anyone help? Has anyone experienced this before?


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Thats strange... I will check this on mine but I don't have wireless version.


----------



## jwhn

Frank Q said:


> There are folks who got it to work with BDP7501..



Who are these folks of which you speak? 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mr.G

WynsWrld98 said:


> The poster didn't state if they had the Roku in Auto for refresh rate or forced to 24 Hz, curious about this. I like the idea of native because I'd hate to put it in forced 24 Hz then it convert from 60 Hz to 24 Hz which would cause problems in the picture quality.


You have it backwards. All services (Netflix, Amazon, etc.) stream natively in 24p. The Roku converts the stream from 24 Hz to 60 Hz unless you choose native frame rate in settings.


----------



## Frank Q

jwhn said:


> I found these instructions. Let me know if they work.
> 
> "To get Netflix to show HDR, I did have to change the settings on the Sony X800, under screen settings, 24P Output, I change Network Content to Auto, it was set to off.
> 
> When this setting is off, then it defaults to 59.93Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0 and SDR on my Epson 5040.
> 
> When I turn this setting to auto, it switches to 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 and HDR"


Jwhn

Does Netflix + Epson (4K HDR) work perfectly with UBP-X800 ? I will return BDP and try this one. Also, what download speed do you get in Netflix ?


----------



## jwhn

Frank Q said:


> Jwhn
> 
> 
> 
> Does Netflix + Epson (4K HDR) work perfectly with UBP-X800 ? I will return BDP and try this one. Also, what download speed do you get in Netflix ?



I tested it last May so I hesitate to say it works perfectly for sure. Maybe a current owner can verify.

This stuff really should be part of the original post and be kept updated. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

I've been having an issue for a while and I finally was able to catch it on camera. 

When I'm watching 4k Blu-ray on my bdp-7501 or netlfix on X1X I get these very quick random black horizontal lines flashing. They come at random times and random places on the screen.

Does anyone have any clue if this is an Epson problem or something else. Currently using the wireless HDMI. Idk if that is the problem. 

Looking for some help before I send back to Epson.









Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Luís Amaral

SALadder22FF said:


> I've been having an issue for a while and I finally was able to catch it on camera.
> 
> When I'm watching 4k Blu-ray on my bdp-7501 or netlfix on X1X I get these very quick random black horizontal lines flashing. They come at random times and random places on the screen.
> 
> Does anyone have any clue if this is an Epson problem or something else. Currently using the wireless HDMI. Idk if that is the problem.
> 
> Looking for some help before I send back to Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE
> 
> On mine already see that bar but only appears sometimes when I iam playing with the Gama settings !


----------



## Luís Amaral

Anyone can see big diference playing uhd at 8bits 4:4:4 and 12bits 4:2:2 ??? I have zappiti player and i cannot see any difference, I think is a problem with zappiti !


----------



## Deftec

robc1976 said:


> Something looks off with your oledurt settings. The green looks completely muted
> 
> You have signal menu on
> 
> Expanded
> Auto
> HDR (auto bright)
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Its just not green, all clips i watch I feel a big difference in the color contrast between 2 settings. Oledurt settings look darker for me and combo of HV+O looks bright and more color enhanced. The signal settings are set as you listed above in oledurt settings and in combo its Normal/BT2020/Auto(bright)


----------



## robc1976

Deftec said:


> Its just not green, all clips i watch I feel a big difference in the color contrast between 2 settings. Oledurt settings look darker for me and combo of HV+O looks bright and more color enhanced. The signal settings are set as you listed above in oledurt settings and in combo its Normal/BT2020/Auto(bright)


One thing I did was up saturation to 68, tint to 58.

Made huge difference.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

jwhn said:


> I found these instructions. Let me know if they work.
> 
> "To get Netflix to show HDR, I did have to change the settings on the Sony X800, under screen settings, 24P Output, I change Network Content to Auto, it was set to off.
> 
> When this setting is off, then it defaults to 59.93Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0 and SDR on my Epson 5040.
> 
> When I turn this setting to auto, it switches to 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 and HDR"


Checked my X800 was already setup that way. Tried a lot of different programming on Netflix and it appears things are working as they should. On the Netflix screen when it says something is HDR it typically does play back at 24 or 25 Hz HDR and things that say Ultra HD 4K with no indication of HDR play back as SDR. One title I did find confusing is Stranger Things says HDR but when I played season 1 SDR but then I selected season 2 and it played HDR.


----------



## Frank Q

WynsWrld98 said:


> jwhn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I found these instructions. Let me know if they work.
> 
> "To get Netflix to show HDR, I did have to change the settings on the Sony X800, under screen settings, 24P Output, I change Network Content to Auto, it was set to off.
> 
> When this setting is off, then it defaults to 59.93Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0 and SDR on my Epson 5040.
> 
> When I turn this setting to auto, it switches to 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 and HDR"
> 
> 
> 
> Checked my X800 was already setup that way. Tried a lot of different programming on Netflix and it appears things are working as they should. On the Netflix screen when it says something is HDR it typically does play back at 24 or 25 Hz HDR and things that say Ultra HD 4K with no indication of HDR play back as SDR. One title I did find confusing is Stranger Things says HDR but when I played season 1 SDR but then I selected season 2 and it played HDR.
Click to expand...


So, which titles have HDR then ? I will try with bdp 7501.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Frank Q said:


> So, which titles have HDR then ? I will try with bdp 7501.


It said "HDR" or "Ultra HD 4K" next to the titles and was pretty accurate based on what I got. Titles I recall getting HDR with were Altered Carbon, Cloverfield Paradox, Naked and Stranger Things season 2. There were more but those are the ones I remember. Things like Fuller House and Grace and Frankie were listed as "Ultra HD 4K" and did come through as 4K SDR for me.


----------



## Frank Q

WynsWrld98 said:


> Frank Q said:
> 
> 
> 
> So, which titles have HDR then ? I will try with bdp 7501.
> 
> 
> 
> It said "HDR" or "Ultra HD 4K" next to the titles and was pretty accurate based on what I got. Titles I recall getting HDR with were Altered Carbon, Cloverfield Paradox, Naked and Stranger Things season 2. There were more but those are the ones I remember. Things like Fuller House and Grace and Frankie were listed as "Ultra HD 4K" and did come through as 4K SDR for me.
Click to expand...

Still getting 8 bit 4.2.0 with bt709 sdr and refresh rate 60hz

So clearly bdp7501 is not compatible. It doesn't even display "Atmos" next to the title altered carbon. Xbox S does it. Which means this BD doesn't even support atmos.

Since x800 works for you, I will give it a shot.


----------



## Kugelfang

craddod said:


> I am new to the forum having just purchased an Epson TW9300W and Oppo 203.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe I have all the correct settings on the Oppo 203 - 4k @24hz, 4:2:2 and 12-bit.
> But every so often I get a small imperfection / artefact on part of the screen for a split second when playing a number of different UHD blu-rays. The imperfection is some additional picture noise but only on a part of the screen. It's the same effect (but covering less of the screen and not continuous) as when you increase the settings beyond the bit rate that the projector can cope with. But these settings I have selected are below 10gbts.
> I've changed the HDMI cables and changed to a different 4k Blu-ray player and get the same issue. It seems more pronounced on certain 9300 picture settings - auto bright is worse than digital cinema, but digital cinema does not completely eliminate it.
> I am using the wireless transmitter but this is showing as full signal and I don't get the issue when using my Sky Q through the transmitter (not 4k or HDR)
> 
> 
> Can anyone help? Has anyone experienced this before?




I had a similar problem. When running the wireless transmitter with 1080p everything was good but the moment I used the full bandwidth (4k 30hz 4:2:2) with my Apple TV i had additional noise on the right side of the image. It appears that the wireless transmitter actually has two channels. Which are used for either halbe of a 4K image. Just cover one half of the emitter with your hand while transmitting a 4K image and you’ll see what I mean. 

In the end a slight repositioning of my emitter helped to solve the problem. I had to tilt it upwards for about 5degree towards my projector which is mounted on the ceiling. It’s very strange as I did not expect that such a small change would fix my problem but it did and it’s fully reproducible.

I guess that the reception was just on the boarder line when pushed to the full bandwidth limit.


----------



## SALadder22FF

If anyone is interested those horizontal lines went away when I started using HDMI instead of wireless HDMI. No issues whatsoever. 

Side note. I use Harpervision for my HDR and took some pics of the Jungles chapter in my Planet Earth II 4k viewing last night.

These should sell the projector alone. Last close up is about 4' from screen.









Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## viperlogic

What image enhancement did you use? For that particular scene its crazy if you up the image enhancement from what I recall, esp the detail around the ye


----------



## TravisBean

Any comments on the 3d capabilities of this projector ?

@ SaLadder22FF- those pics are quite impressive.


----------



## Luís Amaral

SALadder22FF said:


> If anyone is interested those horizontal lines went away when I started using HDMI instead of wireless HDMI. No issues whatsoever.
> 
> Side note. I use Harpervision for my HDR and took some pics of the Jungles chapter in my Planet Earth II 4k viewing last night.
> 
> These should sell the projector alone. Last close up is about 4' from screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Very good, can you tell the settings that you use ? 12bit 4:2:2 ?


----------



## inspector

TravisBean said:


> Any comments on the 3d capabilities of this projector ?
> 
> @ SaLadder22FF- those pics are quite impressive.



I use my 6040 primarily for 3D and find it awesome with no ghosting/crosstalk. Once you dial in the color mode and all the settings, you're good to go.


----------



## TravisBean

inspector said:


> I use my 6040 primarily for 3D and find it awesome with no ghosting/crosstalk. Once you dial in the color mode and all the settings, you're good to go.


How about the 2d to 3d conversion ? I've got a Samsung UN65JS8500 that works great in that respect.


----------



## brianlvi3

robc1976 said:


> Oledurt settings still beat HV at gaming...and this is with contrast clipping at 1000 and I think he has his clipping at 1200.
> 
> Harper vision top
> Oledurt bottom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Hey guys, what the heck is Oledurt? Sorry if this is a stupid question.

thanks.


----------



## inspector

TravisBean said:


> How about the 2d to 3d conversion ? I've got a Samsung UN65JS8500 that works great in that respect.



Sorry, I've never tried it. I only watch real/post 3D.


----------



## OGZimba

I'm about one week in with my 5040! I wanted to thank the forum for all the tips. I was ESPECIALLY grateful reading that turning off the Auto Iris during 3d playback will significantly reduce ghosting, which it did! . Although I'm still not sure if I like 3d or not...I ordered the XPAND RF 3d glasses but also ordered the official Epson 3d glasses, so I'll be posting a comparison of the two at some point.

I'm SO surprised at the Bright Cinema preset, it looks so good and bright that my buddy and I were laughing that it just looks like a giant TV. I imported Blue Planet II and it just blows me away at how good it looks.

I don't understand why streaming looks so bad through my PC with services such as Hulu, but if I use Hulu on my Sony X800 it looks great. I was able to get HDR by setting the Sony player to 4:2:2 Chroma with 24p output. Depending on the content HDR can look great. However one thing that I have to accept is that I'm always fiddling with the settings constantly, maybe that's just life with a projector or maybe because it's so new. 

My room was painted a very dark blue and I actually ordered black velvet for the ceiling which is amazing! It's just a void, an abyss, and a blackhole of light. Seriously darkens the room and although it's still new I felt like it increased the perceived brightness of the screen. Later this weekend I will be working on a magnetic masking system for my 100" silver ticket screen.

Very VERY happy with my purchase. The whole family is excited and watching movies together is a much more exciting and immersive experience. I don't miss my 55" 4k HDR TV at all. You'll absolutely forget about that stuff once you have your projector setup! No regerts


----------



## robc1976

brianlvi3 said:


> Hey guys, what the heck is Oledurt? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
> 
> thanks.


Oledurt is a member here who had posted lots of great settings

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## brianlvi3

robc1976 said:


> Oledurt is a member here who had posted lots of great settings
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


His settings look great. Do you know what post/page he posted them on? Would love to take a look. They really look great. Did he post for standard def also?

Thanks.


----------



## robc1976

brianlvi3 said:


> His settings look great. Do you know what post/page he posted them on? Would love to take a look. They really look great. Did he post for standard def also?
> 
> Thanks.


Those are only HDR

here you go,

I did following changes

Saturation = 68
Tint = 58

You have to set your brightness and contrast via patterns









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## brianlvi3

robc1976 said:


> Those are only HDR
> 
> here you go,
> 
> I did following changes
> 
> Saturation = 68
> Tint = 58
> 
> You have to set your brightness and contrast via patterns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Thanks again!! Can't wait to tinker a bit. I have some catching up to do as I haven't been on the site a while.


----------



## inspector

...and that's what all of us are constantly doing...TINKERING!


----------



## robc1976

inspector said:


> ...and that's what all of us are constantly doing...TINKERING!


Constantly lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## buntcake72

So when I use my Sony X800 I get the full HDR gamut 12bit 2020 color space. I try it on my Roku Ulta watching 4K HDR content ok Vudu for example. It shows as SDR 2020. Any thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mr.G

buntcake72 said:


> So when I use my Sony X800 I get the full HDR gamut 12bit 2020 color space. I try it on my Roku Ulta watching 4K HDR content ok Vudu for example. It shows as SDR 2020. Any thoughts?


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...u-ultra-4k-uhd-hdr-streamer.html#post55740472


----------



## Luís Amaral

robc1976 said:


> Those are only HDR
> 
> here you go,
> 
> I did following changes
> 
> Saturation = 68
> Tint = 58
> 
> You have to set your brightness and contrast via patterns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



These settings does not work on me ! Take a look and see the difference ! Whe I play uhd content I have too increase color... I think is a problem with zappiti media player !


----------



## robc1976

Luís Amaral said:


> These settings does not work on me ! Take a look and see the difference ! Whe I play uhd content I have too increase color... I think is a problem with zappiti media player !


Your on digital cinema not bright cinnema and 90 on color saturation is high...to high

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## hnupe

*What settings used*



SALadder22FF said:


> If anyone is interested those horizontal lines went away when I started using HDMI instead of wireless HDMI. No issues whatsoever.
> 
> Side note. I use Harpervision for my HDR and took some pics of the Jungles chapter in my Planet Earth II 4k viewing last night.
> 
> These should sell the projector alone. Last close up is about 4' from screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Please let us know what your settings are.....the Pics are outstanding.


----------



## mrdh68

Where can I find the information about Harpervision settings?


----------



## Luís Amaral

robc1976 said:


> Your on digital cinema not bright cinnema and 90 on color saturation is high...to high
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



Something is wrong here and I can't find why... your settings vs mine !


----------



## Luís Amaral

Luís Amaral said:


> Something is wrong here and I can't find why... your settings vs mine !


In my opinion zappiti is sending only 8bit to projector and have these problems with color when i see UHD ! My version is 9300 without wireless !


----------



## LumensLover

SALadder22FF said:


> If anyone is interested those horizontal lines went away when I started using HDMI instead of wireless HDMI. No issues whatsoever.
> 
> Side note. I use Harpervision for my HDR and took some pics of the Jungles chapter in my Planet Earth II 4k viewing last night.
> 
> These should sell the projector alone. Last close up is about 4' from screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Pictures look amazing. What screen are you using?


----------



## robc1976

Luís Amaral said:


> Something is wrong here and I can't find why... your settings vs mine !


Okay, post sceen shots of settings of mine your using.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Luís Amaral said:


> Something is wrong here and I can't find why... your settings vs mine !


Looks like you color temp is off throwing way to much red/warm in there.

Here is what mine are 

Color temp 5
Skin tone 5

This will vary on screen



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Okay, post sceen shots of settings of mine your using.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Not mine oledurt's want him to get credit

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Luís Amaral said:


> These settings does not work on me ! Take a look and see the difference ! Whe I play uhd content I have too increase color... I think is a problem with zappiti media player !


This looks like Harper vision not my settings

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

LumensLover said:


> Pictures look amazing. What screen are you using?


Screen Innovations Black Diamond 120" Zero Edge with led lighting

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

hnupe said:


> Please let us know what your settings are.....the Pics are outstanding.


Using Harpervision with no tweaks other than I take off the high fan and use image preset 4. 4k HDR via Philips BDP-7501

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Frank Q

I tried with Apple 4K TV. Originally video output was set to 1080p. Apple TV gives you many output options. When I clicked "Enable HDR" for some reason it did not recognize HDR at all. Displayed message telling enable "Deep or enhanced color". Is there any such setting in projector ?
I think when testing it uses 4K 60Hz HDR signal which Epson does not support.

I use AudioQuest Pearl cable and it supports all the good stuff.

Next, I went ahead and manually selected 4K 24Hz HDR output setting option. Color depth I selected 4.2.0. I also selected the option "Match dynamic range" and "Match Frame rate". This is the correct setting all players must provide. 

This successfully, got my projector to recognize 4K 24Hz with BT2020 (12 bit) 4.2.2 HDR

Now, on netflix titles I see "Ultra 4K" or "Dolby Vision". Not sure why I am not seeing HDR10. Similar, issues in other Apple forums.
Epson projectors AFAIK don't support Vision.

Also, Image gets darker in HDR mode. Weird.


----------



## TravisBean

SALadder22FF said:


> Screen Innovations Black Diamond 120" Zero Edge with led lighting
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


The screen costs twice as much as the projector !

(yea, I know, you get what.................)


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> Using Harpervision with no tweaks other than I take off the high fan and use image preset 4. 4k HDR via Philips BDP-7501
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Image preset 4 looks awesome on my game but seems to strain my eyes for some reason

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## mrdh68

SALadder22FF said:


> hnupe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Please let us know what your settings are.....the Pics are outstanding.
> 
> 
> 
> Using Harpervision with no tweaks other than I take off the high fan and use image preset 4. 4k HDR via Philips BDP-7501
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Where can be found Harpervision calibration settings?


----------



## SALadder22FF

TravisBean said:


> The screen costs twice as much as the projector !
> 
> (yea, I know, you get what.................)


I got a good deal on one where this was not the case. And your right. Every single person who comes in comments on the screen, screen lights and picture quality. 100% worth what I paid for it.

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

SALadder22FF said:


> I got a good deal on one where this was not the case. And your right. Every single person who comes in comments on the screen, screen lights and picture quality. 100% worth what I paid for it.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


I read this on the screen forum...You date your projector, you marry your screen .

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Mr.G

Frank Q said:


> I tried with Apple 4K TV. Originally video output was set to 1080p. Apple TV gives you many output options. When I clicked "Enable HDR" for some reason it did not recognize HDR at all. Displayed message telling enable "Deep or enhanced color". Is there any such setting in projector ?
> I think when testing it uses 4K 60Hz HDR signal which Epson does not support.
> 
> I use AudioQuest Pearl cable and it supports all the good stuff.
> 
> Next, I went ahead and manually selected 4K 24Hz HDR output setting option. Color depth I selected 4.2.0. I also selected the option "Match dynamic range" and "Match Frame rate". This is the correct setting all players must provide.
> 
> This successfully, got my projector to recognize 4K 24Hz with BT2020 (12 bit) 4.2.2 HDR
> 
> Now, on netflix titles I see "Ultra 4K" or "Dolby Vision". Not sure why I am not seeing HDR10. Similar, issues in other Apple forums.
> Epson projectors AFAIK don't support Vision.
> 
> *Also, Image gets darker in HDR mode. Weird.*


Not weird, it's normal. Projectors do not produce enough nits (lumens) for optimum HDR. There are tweaks using tone mapping for HDR that owners talk about in this thread and others. True HDR is the province of 4K direct view sets.


----------



## LumensLover

SALadder22FF said:


> Screen Innovations Black Diamond 120" Zero Edge with led lighting
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


That is what I thought. I know a Black Diamond when I see one. Looks great.


----------



## Luís Amaral

Why in color format some users have BT.2020 HDR1 or HDR2 ?

On my case i only can put BT.2020 HDR


----------



## WynsWrld98

Frank Q said:


> I tried with Apple 4K TV. Originally video output was set to 1080p. Apple TV gives you many output options. When I clicked "Enable HDR" for some reason it did not recognize HDR at all. Displayed message telling enable "Deep or enhanced color". Is there any such setting in projector ?
> I think when testing it uses 4K 60Hz HDR signal which Epson does not support.
> 
> I use AudioQuest Pearl cable and it supports all the good stuff.
> 
> Next, I went ahead and manually selected 4K 24Hz HDR output setting option. Color depth I selected 4.2.0. I also selected the option "Match dynamic range" and "Match Frame rate". This is the correct setting all players must provide.
> 
> This successfully, got my projector to recognize 4K 24Hz with BT2020 (12 bit) 4.2.2 HDR
> 
> Now, on netflix titles I see "Ultra 4K" or "Dolby Vision". Not sure why I am not seeing HDR10. Similar, issues in other Apple forums.
> Epson projectors AFAIK don't support Vision.
> 
> Also, Image gets darker in HDR mode. Weird.


On Netflix try Cloverfield Paradox, Naked, Altered Carbon and Stranger Things season 2. For me with my Sony X800 all of these display HDR on the program info screen in Netflix and indeed playback as 4K 24 Hz HDR with my Sony X800/Epson 5040 setup.


----------



## Deftec

*Customized Correction*

Below are my settings for my gamma and rbgcmy, can somebody help me to tweak this as i have zero knowledge on these? These are the settings stated by Oledurt and HV, my colors looks too bright and many times its washed out, the skin looks yellowish, red looks ultra rich red, all colors are some way or other too bright, which section i need to change so i can tone down the colors, i am trying different settings but thought if I can take some help from forum members who have more knowledge on these settings.

Color Mode: Digital Cinema
Brightness: 46
Contrast:100
Color Saturation: 80
Tint: 50
Sharpness 5/5/5
Color Temp 4
Skin Tone 5

Customized
Offset R 50
Offset G 50
Offset B 52
Gain R 52
Gain G 52
Gain B 41

Advanced
Gamma 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,28,32

[RGBCMY]
R 53,45,54
G 53,50,40
B 56,43,50
C 67,46,50
M 71,43,54
Y 48,47,49


----------



## F-n-T

Deftec said:


> Below are my settings for my gamma and rbgcmy, can somebody help me to tweak this as i have zero knowledge on these? These are the settings stated by Oledurt and HV, my colors looks too bright and many times its washed out, the skin looks yellowish, red looks ultra rich red, all colors are some way or other too bright, which section i need to change so i can tone down the colors, i am trying different settings but thought if I can take some help from forum members who have more knowledge on these settings.
> 
> Color Mode: Digital Cinema
> Brightness: 46
> Contrast:100
> Color Saturation: 80
> Tint: 50
> Sharpness 5/5/5
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 5
> 
> Customized
> Offset R 50
> Offset G 50
> Offset B 52
> Gain R 52
> Gain G 52
> Gain B 41
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,28,32
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> R 53,45,54
> G 53,50,40
> B 56,43,50
> C 67,46,50
> M 71,43,54
> Y 48,47,49


it looks like the gamma settings are wrong!
look back at the settings posted back a couple of pages ago.


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

The tiger from Life of Pi 4k on Epson is really coming out of the screen


----------



## aaranddeeman

Luís Amaral said:


> Why in color format some users have BT.2020 HDR1 or HDR2 ?
> 
> On my case i only can put BT.2020 HDR


My wild guess. When in Auto it shows HDR, but if you have manually selected HDR1,2,3,4, it will show as such.


----------



## Lithium

For those looking for community configurations (ie. Oledurt, HarperVision, etc.) an update to date compilation can still be found here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352

I personally use 'HarperVision Digital Cinema w/ Oeldurt Suggestions' for HDR and Dave Harper's Natural configuration for SDR.


----------



## robc1976

SALadder22FF said:


> I got a good deal on one where this was not the case. And your right. Every single person who comes in comments on the screen, screen lights and picture quality. 100% worth what I paid for it.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Totally worth it, I have had 3 screens and on 3rd one got a stewart filmsceen cima nueve and it blows my other screens away. You will never see the capabilities of this projector without a good screen

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luís Amaral

aaranddeeman said:


> My wild guess. When in Auto it shows HDR, but if you have manually selected HDR1,2,3,4, it will show as such.


Already tested and it is the same... i think zappiti is not sending the signal 100% ! i have selected 4:2:2 12 bits but the projector is not recognized this signal !!! i have to test with another media player ! is strange because i do not see diferente when i put 8 bits 4:4:4 and 12 bits 4:2:2 !


----------



## LoneWolf121188

Are the settings that Oledurt posted here for SDR content, or "HDR content viewed using the SDR setting on the projecter" similar to Harper Vision?


----------



## thevenom

*Firmware*

Hey everyone.
Was wondering where i can download firmware past 1.09
All I can find is 1.09 for some reason.
Whats the latest firmware and whats the link to the Download?

Thanks!

Update: I found the 1.11 from the UK website for the 9300. is it safe to update the 5040ub with this?


----------



## Juiced46

thevenom said:


> Hey everyone.
> Was wondering where i can download firmware past 1.09
> All I can find is 1.09 for some reason.
> Whats the latest firmware and whats the link to the Download?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Update: I found the 1.11 from the UK website for the 9300. is it safe to update the 5040ub with this?


The 1.11 Firmware you want for the 5040 is on this site...

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## thevenom

Juiced46 said:


> The 1.11 Firmware you want for the 5040 is on this site...
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


Thank You


----------



## Sanjay

Juiced46 said:


> The 1.11 Firmware you want for the 5040 is on this site...
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


Would appreciate any help finding the firmware update for the EH-TW8300 (not sure if it is a direct equivalent to the 5040 but it is close if not the same)


----------



## Mr.G

Sanjay said:


> Would appreciate any help finding the firmware update for the EH-TW8300 (closest equivalent to the 5040)


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-633.html#post55494870


----------



## Dominic Chan

Sanjay said:


> Would appreciate any help finding the firmware update for the EH-TW8300 (closest equivalent to the 5040)


The 5040 and 6040 use the same firmware, so presumably the tw8300 also uses the same as the tw9300 :
https://www.epson.eu/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9300/Support-Downloads


----------



## Sanjay

Mr.G said:


> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-633.html#post55494870


Thanks. But the link you provided, just links back to this page.


----------



## Sanjay

Dominic Chan said:


> The 5040 and 6040 use the same firmware, so presumably the tw8300 also uses the same as the tw9300 :
> https://www.epson.eu/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9300/Support-Downloads


Thanks. But I was hoping for some confirmation of the same. Would hate to screw up the projector with an incorrect firmware.


----------



## Mr.G

Sanjay said:


> Thanks. But the link you provided, just links back to this page.


Let's try it again.

http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/index.asp


----------



## Sanjay

Mr.G said:


> Let's try it again.
> 
> http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/index.asp


Thanks again. But I'm sorry, I can't find any firmware downloads here. Just the Manual, Driver & some Utilities.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Sanjay said:


> Thanks again. But I'm sorry, I can't find any firmware downloads here. Just the Manual, Driver & some Utilities.


It's at the bottom of the page. Firmware v1.11


----------



## macej

*Clarifying HDMI Limitations*

I've read a chunk of this thread and I think I understand the PJs limitations due to HDMI limits. Looking to confirm though. My main concern is around PC gaming.

If I read everything right - with a linker I can strip HDR and the projector can input a 4k signal at 60 fps. Is that accurate? And if I leave HDR in the mix what's the best it can do? 4k/30 or 4k/24?

Thanks in advance for your help. Lot of information out here ....


----------



## Sanjay

Dominic Chan said:


> It's at the bottom of the page. Firmware v1.11


Oh, I did find the firmware for the EH-TW9300 at the link you posted. It's the link -> http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/index.asp posted by Mr. G, presumably for the EH-TW8300, where I can't find the firmware at.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Sanjay said:


> Oh, I did find the firmware for the EH-TW9300 at the link you posted. It's the link -> http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/index.asp posted by Mr. G, presumably for the EH-TW8300, where I can't find the firmware at.


In my second message I do mean the TW8300, at the bottom of the page. You have to select All, instead of a specific OS like Windows.


----------



## ayrton

macej said:


> I've read a chunk of this thread and I think I understand the PJs limitations due to HDMI limits. Looking to confirm though. My main concern is around PC gaming.
> 
> If I read everything right - with a linker I can strip HDR and the projector can input a 4k signal at 60 fps. Is that accurate? And if I leave HDR in the mix what's the best it can do? 4k/30 or 4k/24?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help. Lot of information out here ....


Not gaming, but 4K UHD *HDR* disks: Mine will play @ 24/30 not @ 60fps..

My Oppo 203 will convert 60-30 so all is good. Don't have a Linker..


----------



## Juiced46

macej said:


> I've read a chunk of this thread and I think I understand the PJs limitations due to HDMI limits. Looking to confirm though. My main concern is around PC gaming.
> 
> If I read everything right - with a linker I can strip HDR and the projector can input a 4k signal at 60 fps. Is that accurate? And if I leave HDR in the mix what's the best it can do? 4k/30 or 4k/24?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help. Lot of information out here ....


This comment is in regards for gaming only. 

With NO Linker these are your options for GAMING. 

4K/60hz SDR 8bit

1080P/60hz HDR or SDR 12bit and then use 4K Enhancement to "upscale to 4K" (if your video card allows you to output 1080P/60hz)

WITH the Linker your options are

4K/60hz HDR 8 bit

4K/60hz strip HDR but you are still only limited to 8 bit. 

For Movies with NO Linker

4K/24hz HDR 12 bit. 

Furthermore, all acceptable signals are shown in the table on the first page.


----------



## gunlife

Juiced46 said:


> This comment is in regards for gaming only.
> 
> With NO Linker these are your options for GAMING.
> 
> 4K/60hz SDR 8bit
> 
> 1080P/60hz HDR or SDR 12bit and then use 4K Enhancement to "upscale to 4K" (if your video card allows you to output 1080P/60hz)
> 
> WITH the Linker your options are
> 
> 4K/60hz HDR 8 bit
> 
> 4K/60hz strip HDR but you are still only limited to 8 bit.
> 
> For Movies with NO Linker
> 
> 4K/24hz HDR 12 bit.
> 
> Furthermore, all acceptable signals are shown in the table on the first page.



I have a Epson 4000 which is similar to a 5040. With pc gaming the best picture is 1080p/60hz With HDR. Let the projector upscale it to 4k. I use the Epson super resolution at a high setting. This looks awesome and input lag is very minimal. PS4 also allows 1080p with HDR. Xbox does NOT.


----------



## Brajesh

Guys, is there an updated version of Oledurt & HarperVision settings? Thought I saw a link earlier today, but can't find now after 20 mins of searching this thread. Thanks!


----------



## Juiced46

gunlife said:


> I have a Epson 4000 which is similar to a 5040. With pc gaming the best picture is 1080p/60hz With HDR. Let the projector upscale it to 4k. I use the Epson super resolution at a high setting. This looks awesome and input lag is very minimal. PS4 also allows 1080p with HDR. Xbox does NOT.


That is correct, I did not mention the consoles because he asked about PC. I should have clarified my post a bit better. 



Brajesh said:


> Guys, is there an updated version of Oledurt & HarperVision settings? Thought I saw a link earlier today, but can't find now after 20 mins of searching this thread. Thanks!


PDF link is in post # 11,812

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352


----------



## macej

Juiced46 said:


> This comment is in regards for gaming only.
> 
> With NO Linker these are your options for GAMING.
> 
> 4K/60hz SDR 8bit
> 
> 1080P/60hz HDR or SDR 12bit and then use 4K Enhancement to "upscale to 4K" (if your video card allows you to output 1080P/60hz)
> 
> WITH the Linker your options are
> 
> 4K/60hz HDR 8 bit
> 
> 4K/60hz strip HDR but you are still only limited to 8 bit.
> 
> For Movies with NO Linker
> 
> 4K/24hz HDR 12 bit.
> 
> Furthermore, all acceptable signals are shown in the table on the first page.


Thanks. I saw that table several times and misread it every time. I understand it now. Although that leads to another question ... Is the difference between 8 bit 4:2:0 and 12 bit 4:2:2 obvious or is it something you have to focus on to see? 


I understand the technical differences between the two but I've never seen side by sides on a big screen like a PJ. I know I can get the 12 bit 4:2:2 if I move to a different brand but the user reviews and pictures on here are so good. I don't want to double my price for minor improvements I wouldn't notice unless I'm looking for them (which I won't be).


Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## Sanjay

Dominic Chan said:


> In my second message I do mean the TW8300, at the bottom of the page. You have to select All, instead of a specific OS like Windows.


Thanks. The "have to select ALL, instead of a specific OS like Windows", was the key to the hidden treasure.  It seems like, someone at EPSON did not want to make it easy for most to find the firmware update. 

PS: What exactly does v1.11 change/add over v1.10?


----------



## Sanjay

I downloaded the respective files from the various download links and based on the Hash check, it seems safe to state that the firmware update for the US Home Cinema 5040UB/Pro Cinema 6040UB & the EU EH-TW9300 & the Asia EH-TW9300 &the Asia EH-TW8300 are identical.

Home Cinema 5040UB/Pro Cinema 6040UB | Firmware v1.11/1.11
Posted: ??? (DD/MM/YYYY)
Posted File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_111.bin
Posted File Size: File Size: 40.0 MB (4,20,11,120 bytes)
CRC32: 4F4D14B9
MD5: A7B0B8F8CE45D8E0C4E8C4EE36E4F5F8
SHA-1: BD5FFE3631E1121D3948E07FAA7E5D5EC964B533
------------------------
EH-TW9300 (EU) | Firmware v1.11
Posted: 08/12/2017 (DD/MM/YYYY)
Posted File Name: epson628939eu.zip
Posted File Size: 40.7 MB (4,27,59,341 bytes)
Unzipped File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_111.bin
Unzipped File Dated: 30/11/2017 11:32AM
Unzipped File Size: 40.0 MB (4,20,11,120 bytes)
CRC32: 4F4D14B9
MD5: A7B0B8F8CE45D8E0C4E8C4EE36E4F5F8
SHA-1: BD5FFE3631E1121D3948E07FAA7E5D5EC964B533
------------------------
EH-TW8300 (Asia) | Firmware v1.11
Posted: 13/12/2017 (DD/MM/YYYY)
Posted File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_UM(EN).zip
Posted File Size: 40.7 MB (4,27,59,341 bytes)
Unzipped File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_111.bin 
Unzipped File Dated: 30/11/2017 11:32AM
Unzipped File Size: 40.0 MB (4,20,11,120 bytes)
CRC32: 4F4D14B9
MD5: A7B0B8F8CE45D8E0C4E8C4EE36E4F5F8
SHA-1: BD5FFE3631E1121D3948E07FAA7E5D5EC964B533
------------------------
EH-TW9300 (Asia) | Firmware v1.11
Posted: 13/12/2017 (DD/MM/YYYY)
Posted File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_UM(EN).zip
Posted File Size: 40.7 MB (4,27,59,341 bytes)
Unzipped File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_111.bin
Unzipped File Dated: 30/11/2017 11:32AM
Unzipped File Size: 40.0 MB (4,20,11,120 bytes)
CRC32: 4F4D14B9
MD5: A7B0B8F8CE45D8E0C4E8C4EE36E4F5F8
SHA-1: BD5FFE3631E1121D3948E07FAA7E5D5EC964B533


----------



## mckracken88

I was wondering if i should upgrade the firmware. I dont watch HDR, any other benefits? Is there a changelog for firmware updates?


----------



## gunlife

macej said:


> Thanks. I saw that table several times and misread it every time. I understand it now. Although that leads to another question ... Is the difference between 8 bit 4:2:0 and 12 bit 4:2:2 obvious or is it something you have to focus on to see?
> 
> 
> I understand the technical differences between the two but I've never seen side by sides on a big screen like a PJ. I know I can get the 12 bit 4:2:2 if I move to a different brand but the user reviews and pictures on here are so good. I don't want to double my price for minor improvements I wouldn't notice unless I'm looking for them (which I won't be).
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback!



All I can tell you from my personal experience is this. I have my pc hooked up to a asus 1440p 27inch monitor and my projector. They are in the same room so I can mirror them. I swear the Epson looks almost identical at 1080input but with a 100inch screen. Is there better gear out there?? Of course. Do I think you will notice it if its not next to it? Nope not at all.


----------



## Uppsalaing

*Possible motion effects at 4K HDR?*

Do any of you notice motion effects when playing movies at 4K HDR?

You know, similar tot he soap opera effect, but less noticable... it's subtle and I've only noticed it on a couple of Netflix 4K HDR movies (e.g. Mute) on the Netflix app on the Apple TV 4K.

The effect doesn't seem to be there when I set the Apple TV to 1080p HDR and then upscale on the projector.

All image enhancement is turned off...

I was wondering if people have noticed something similar, as I have yet to test with iTunes movies and I don't have a UHD Disc player yet.


----------



## Mr.G

mckracken88 said:


> I was wondering if i should upgrade the firmware. I dont watch HDR, any other benefits? Is there a changelog for firmware updates?


This article will tell you what the firmware changes on the projector.

https://www.projectorreviews.com/th...040-pc6040ub-projectors-end-user-hdr-upgrade/


----------



## Sanjay

Brajesh said:


> Guys, is there an updated version of Oledurt & HarperVision settings? Thought I saw a link earlier today, but can't find now after 20 mins of searching this thread. Thanks!


I tried the settings pf the two Oledurt versions of Bright Cinema HDR & the Digital Cinema HDR and also the HarperVision with Oledurt suggestions Digital Cinema and I am totally foxed by the really poor picture that I am getting from these settings. Is there some secret sauce that I need to add to the mix, because I really can't imagine how anyone cold consider the picture with these settings even acceptable let alone as good.

PS: Could the screen (Elite Saker Tab tensioned 135") or the media player (Egreat A10 set to output 4K with 10 Bit 4:2:2 BT2020 HDR), be the difference?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Sanjay said:


> I tried the settings pf the two Oledurt versions of Bright Cinema HDR & the Digital Cinema HDR and also the HarperVision with Oledurt suggestions Digital Cinema and I am totally foxed by the really poor picture that I am getting from these settings.


If you don’t like the Epson default HDR settings, you should do your own calibration instead of using other people’s settings.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html


----------



## dholmes54

Hello you computer guys,Ive got a question about the upgrade,i downloaded it to a flash drive fat 32,it looks like I might have done it correctly. When I plug the drive into my computer it says Epson pj 1511-111 bin 41,02j kb,thxs in advance!


----------



## F-n-T

dholmes54 said:


> Hello you computer guys,Ive got a question about the upgrade,i downloaded it to a flash drive fat 32,it looks like I might have done it correctly. When I plug the drive into my computer it says Epson pj 1511-111 bin 41,02j kb,thxs in advance!


looks just like my file i downloaded ....good luck


----------



## simonk83

I watch the majority of my 4K discs ripped and through a Vero 4K. They work fine, but in the projector info I only ever see BT2020 HDR 8bit 4.4.4. Should I not be seeing 10 or 12 bit at 4.2.2?


----------



## jwhn

simonk83 said:


> I watch the majority of my 4K discs ripped and through a Vero 4K. They work fine, but in the projector info I only ever see BT2020 HDR 8bit 4.4.4. Should I not be seeing 10 or 12 bit at 4.2.2?


No, the projector is not capable of that. Look at the very first post in this thread for more details.

Edit - it actually can do the 12 bit if you are at 24hz. You would have to set that on the Vero.


----------



## simonk83

jwhn said:


> No, the projector is not capable of that. Look at the very first post in this thread for more details.
> 
> Edit - it actually can do the 12 bit if you are at 24hz. You would have to set that on the Vero.


Riiight, due to the 10Gbps chipset limitation? How annoying 

Most of this stuff is 24hz. I'm not too sure how to get that happening on the Vero, I'll have to poke around. There's this thread: https://discourse.osmc.tv/t/444-10bit-output-from-vero-4k/54324 which I did originally try, but while it gave me 10bit, it limited me to 1080p (which makes sense now). I wonder if I could modify that command to something like:

echo ‘422,12bit’ >/sys/class/amhdmitx/amhdmitx0/attr


----------



## jwhn

simonk83 said:


> Riiight, due to the 10Gbps chipset limitation? How annoying
> 
> Most of this stuff is 24hz. I'm not too sure how to get that happening on the Vero, I'll have to poke around. There's this thread: https://discourse.osmc.tv/t/444-10bit-output-from-vero-4k/54324 which I did originally try, but while it gave me 10bit, it limited me to 1080p (which makes sense now). I wonder if I could modify that command to something like:
> 
> echo ‘422,12bit’ >/sys/class/amhdmitx/amhdmitx0/attr


Not sure. The Nvidia Shield allows one to set it to 422 12 bit, for what its worth.


----------



## simonk83

jwhn said:


> Not sure. The Nvidia Shield allows one to set it to 422 12 bit, for what its worth.


Would this affect SDR material? The Shield has issues switching colourspaces automatically, in that it just doesn't (which is why I bought the Vero). I do have a Shield in the other room though...


----------



## jwhn

simonk83 said:


> Would this affect SDR material? The Shield has issues switching colourspaces automatically, in that it just doesn't (which is why I bought the Vero). I do have a Shield in the other room though...




Yes it has that option for both HDR and SDR. Yeah, the switching is a bit of a pain but I actually programmed my remote to change it at a touch of a button. But still takes 20 seconds. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dholmes54

F-n-T said:


> looks just like my file i downloaded ....good luck


thxs,im always a little scared of these downloads,nervous about locking up the projector like I did a Blu-ray player a few yrs ago.


----------



## cjsparky

Quick question. How impacting is the 10Gbps chipset really? If projectors are not to date able to even remotely handle HDR from a brightness and contrast perspective, is it really a dealbreaker? I have been eyeballing this projector for a while, and every time I start changing my mind, I wind right back up here with my research and decision. What am I missing?


----------



## Uppsalaing

cjsparky said:


> Quick question. How impacting is the 10Gbps chipset really? If projectors are not to date able to even remotely handle HDR from a brightness and contrast perspective, is it really a dealbreaker? I have been eyeballing this projector for a while, and every time I start changing my mind, I wind right back up here with my research and decision. What am I missing?


What content to you want to display? Movies, shows or games?

What sources do you want to use?

Movies: If you watch movies on disc from a UHD player than can output at 24hz (most decent ones), or use apps on devices that can output movies at 24hz (e.g. Apple TV 4K) then the HDMi chipset limitation is not relevant...

Shows: Depends on the shows... I rarely watch shows so I'm not the ideal person to comment, but the Netflix HDR 4K ones seem to be at 24hz on my Apple TV 4

Video Games: Not a gamer, but you will not get the max results as You'll have to give up HDR or 4K to get the fast frame rates... However, others can comment on using the Projector upscaling with a 1080p HDR signal to get good results at 60hz... Check your sources for the video games...


----------



## cjsparky

Uppsalaing said:


> What content to you want to display? Movies, shows or games?
> 
> What sources do you want to use?
> 
> Movies: If you watch movies on disc from a UHD player than can output at 24hz (most decent ones), or use apps on devices that can output movies at 24hz (e.g. Apple TV 4K) then the HDMi chipset limitation is not relevant...
> 
> Shows: Depends on the shows... I rarely watch shows so I'm not the ideal person to comment, but the Netflix HDR 4K ones seem to be at 24hz on my Apple TV 4
> 
> Video Games: Not a gamer, but you will not get the max results as You'll have to give up HDR or 4K to get the fast frame rates... However, others can comment on using the Projector upscaling with a 1080p HDR signal to get good results at 60hz... Check your sources for the video games...


I know there probably isn't a good answer for this, but what percent of HDR can a projector produce? Lets say the LG OLED is the baseline of 100%, and SDR is 0% what can the Epson achieve as is, and what could it achieve if it had a full 18G chipset? What could the JVC's achieve both examples assuming a light controlled room at 120"?

Again, just a wild ass guess. I am really trying to determine what I would be missing out on going with the 5040ub. Content wise, I am 1/3 sports, 1/3 movies, 1/3 xb1 x


----------



## LoneWolf121188

For anyone using an Nvidia Shield: What color settings are you using? I can't seem to enable 10-bit 4:2:0 Rec. 2020 at any resolution or frame rate. My only options in the Shield's display settings are YUV 4:2:0 8-bit Rec. 709, YUV 4:2:2 12-bit Rec. 709 and Rec. 2020, and YUV 4:4:4: 8-bit Rec 709.


----------



## jwhn

cjsparky said:


> I know there probably isn't a good answer for this, but what percent of HDR can a projector produce? Lets say the LG OLED is the baseline of 100%, and SDR is 0% what can the Epson achieve as is, and what could it achieve if it had a full 18G chipset? What could the JVC's achieve both examples assuming a light controlled room at 120"?
> 
> Again, just a wild ass guess. I am really trying to determine what I would be missing out on going with the 5040ub. Content wise, I am 1/3 sports, 1/3 movies, 1/3 xb1 x


----------



## jwhn

LoneWolf121188 said:


> For anyone using an Nvidia Shield: What color settings are you using? I can't seem to enable 10-bit 4:2:0 Rec. 2020 at any resolution or frame rate. My only options in the Shield's display settings are YUV 4:2:0 8-bit Rec. 709, YUV 4:2:2 12-bit Rec. 709 and Rec. 2020, and YUV 4:4:4: 8-bit Rec 709.


For SDR content I use YUV 422 12-bit Rec.709 (I change the resolution and Hz depending on content source). YUV 4:4:4: 8-bit Rec 709 also seems to work fine. I haven't done a super detailed comparison but may at some point. I find it pretty hard to see a difference and I get pretty similar measurements when doing a calibration. I would just look for things like banding etc.

I avoid the YUV 420 8-bit Rec. 709 (the recommended setting) whenever possible because it has been shown through measurements to incorrectly translate the colors. You can read about this in the HCFR thread. 

For HDR the only option is 422 12-bit Rec.2020 at any resolution / hz and this works fine for me.


----------



## LoneWolf121188

jwhn said:


> For SDR content I use YUV 422 12-bit Rec.709 (I change the resolution and Hz depending on content source). YUV 4:4:4: 8-bit Rec 709 also seems to work fine. I haven't done a super detailed comparison but may at some point. I find it pretty hard to see a difference and I get pretty similar measurements when doing a calibration. I would just look for things like banding etc.
> 
> I avoid the YUV 420 8-bit Rec. 709 (the recommended setting) whenever possible because it has been shown through measurements to incorrectly translate the colors. You can read about this in the HCFR thread.
> 
> For HDR the only option is 422 12-bit Rec.2020 at any resolution / hz and this works fine for me.


Thanks. You can use 422 12-bit Rec.2020 at 60 Hz? According to the first post in this thread that's almost 18 Gbps...


----------



## Uppsalaing

cjsparky said:


> I know there probably isn't a good answer for this, but what percent of HDR can a projector produce? Lets say the LG OLED is the baseline of 100%, and SDR is 0% what can the Epson achieve as is, and what could it achieve if it had a full 18G chipset? What could the JVC's achieve both examples assuming a light controlled room at 120"?
> 
> Again, just a wild ass guess. I am really trying to determine what I would be missing out on going with the 5040ub. Content wise, I am 1/3 sports, 1/3 movies, 1/3 xb1 x


----------



## jwhn

LoneWolf121188 said:


> Thanks. You can use 422 12-bit Rec.2020 at 60 Hz? According to the first post in this thread that's almost 18 Gbps...


Yes, but only at 1920x1080 resolution or lower. I should have said at any available resolution / hz combination. Point is that 422 12 bit is the only option available for the Rec.2020 color space.


----------



## Brajesh

simonk83 said:


> Riiight, due to the 10Gbps chipset limitation? How annoying
> 
> Most of this stuff is 24hz. I'm not too sure how to get that happening on the Vero, I'll have to poke around. There's this thread: https://discourse.osmc.tv/t/444-10bit-output-from-vero-4k/54324 which I did originally try, but while it gave me 10bit, it limited me to 1080p (which makes sense now). I wonder if I could modify that command to something like:
> 
> echo ‘422,12bit’ >/sys/class/amhdmitx/amhdmitx0/attr


Yes, you can with LibreELEC off a mSD card on your Vero 4K. See here.


----------



## ryansiebecker

*Green blob on screen (thinking dust blob)*

Hi all,
We installed our projector into our new home about 6 months ago, and just last week we've been experiencing a green blotch on black screens. It is not visible whatsoever on bright screens, and when the aperture closes for fully dark screens it is not very noticeable. The most sever case are title screens, for example in credits, when most of the screen is black except for white text. I have attached an image to show this problem. Does anyone know what could be causing this?

Thanks, 
ryansiebecker

EDIT: posted this in the wrong thread the first time, but received some good feedback about it most likely being a dust blob. Any good advice of how to clean it? Thanks!


----------



## Lithium

ryansiebecker said:


> Hi all,
> We installed our projector into our new home about 6 months ago, and just last week we've been experiencing a green blotch on black screens. It is not visible whatsoever on bright screens, and when the aperture closes for fully dark screens it is not very noticeable. The most sever case are title screens, for example in credits, when most of the screen is black except for white text. I have attached an image to show this problem. Does anyone know what could be causing this?
> 
> Thanks,
> ryansiebecker
> 
> EDIT: posted this in the wrong thread the first time, but received some good feedback about it most likely being a dust blob. Any good advice of how to clean it? Thanks!


Looks like a dust blob. You should contact Epson and see if it is covered under warranty. It's generally not a safe DIY.


----------



## LumensLover

Lithium said:


> Looks like a dust blob. You should contact Epson and see if it is covered under warranty. It's generally not a safe DIY.


Epson charging nearly $3,000 for projectors without a sealed lightpath is downright stupid. This is why I refuse to buy another Epson 5040 at this time. Terrible build quality and the repeated stupidity of no sealed lightpath in their projectors for the last 10 years.


----------



## rustolemite

Is anyone using a SeymourAV CenterStage XD + Black backing screen with their 5040? 
I have just ordered one and will be replacing an Elite AT screen, I got a same pieces and was blown away with how much clearer and brighter the XD screen was.
So was wondering if any is using this screen would you be will to post some basic settings you are using?
I keep mine on Eco mode since it sits right above me, but anxious to finally try using HDR, which was to dark with the Elite screen.

Thanks


----------



## gene4ht

rustolemite said:


> Is anyone using a SeymourAV CenterStage XD + Black backing screen with their 5040?
> I have just ordered one and will be replacing an Elite AT screen, I got a same pieces and was blown away with how much clearer and brighter the XD screen was.
> So was wondering if any is using this screen would you be will to post some basic settings you are using?
> I keep mine on Eco mode since it sits right above me, but anxious to finally try using HDR, which was to dark with the Elite screen.
> 
> Thanks


Please post your impressions as I would be interested in your findings...particularly with HDR content. Thanks!


----------



## rustolemite

gene4ht said:


> Please post your impressions as I would be interested in your findings...particularly with HDR content. Thanks!


Will do, I think I should have the screen by this coming Friday.


----------



## Lithium

rustolemite said:


> Is anyone using a SeymourAV CenterStage XD + Black backing screen with their 5040?
> I have just ordered one and will be replacing an Elite AT screen, I got a same pieces and was blown away with how much clearer and brighter the XD screen was.
> So was wondering if any is using this screen would you be will to post some basic settings you are using?
> I keep mine on Eco mode since it sits right above me, but anxious to finally try using HDR, which was to dark with the Elite screen.
> 
> Thanks


I have a 150" SeymourAV CenterStage XD w/o black backing but I have a fully sound insulated stage behind the screen with black duct liner so it's essentially the same thing I suppose. I run HarperVision (w/ Oledurt suggestions) for HDR movies and it looks awesome. If you have Planet Earth II on 4k that's a great disk to take it for a spin or if you want some cinematic action I really like the look of the club fight scene in John Wick. I have seating at 10' and 15', in the front row I can sometimes ever slightly (if I look for it) make out the screen weave in bright whites but not at all from the back row. If you want to use Eco mode, I would probably use a Bright Cinema configuration like Oledurt but you will sacrifice some of the WCG. I'm a sucker for the richer colors so I like the Digital Cinema color filter and run on High mode.

Community configurations can be found here: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352


----------



## db999md

*HDMI link firmware issue*

I had an epson 5040ub that worked fine for about 15 months. During that time I would guess that I had to unplug and replug it like 4 times total to get it to power on. About 1 month ago I upgraded some stuff and re-wired everything. After that time I had to unplug the projector and replug it for it to turn on.

I called epson and got a replacement. the replacement was doing the same thing. I then totally disabled hdmi link and it does not happen any more. You have to disable HDMI link completely, not just the power control. 

they have a firmware bug. 

FWIW, The new equipment is Denon X4300h and I have samsung UHD blu-ray, tivo, nvidia shield, and roku premieme +.
The only major thing that changed was the receiver so mabe that is the incompatibilty.

FYI both projectors had the same firmware revision

Dennis


----------



## Juiced46

Sanjay said:


> I tried the settings pf the two Oledurt versions of Bright Cinema HDR & the Digital Cinema HDR and also the HarperVision with Oledurt suggestions Digital Cinema and I am totally foxed by the really poor picture that I am getting from these settings. Is there some secret sauce that I need to add to the mix, because I really can't imagine how anyone cold consider the picture with these settings even acceptable let alone as good.
> 
> PS: Could the screen (Elite Saker Tab tensioned 135") or the media player (Egreat A10 set to output 4K with 10 Bit 4:2:2 BT2020 HDR), be the difference?


If your images look bad, either you did not enter the settings correctly. Or your projector is not receiving an HDR signal, I know you mentioned what you are outputting but what is the PJ actually getting?. What does the projector info screen show?



macej said:


> Thanks. I saw that table several times and misread it every time. I understand it now. Although that leads to another question ... Is the difference between 8 bit 4:2:0 and 12 bit 4:2:2 obvious or is it something you have to focus on to see?
> 
> 
> I understand the technical differences between the two but I've never seen side by sides on a big screen like a PJ. I know I can get the 12 bit 4:2:2 if I move to a different brand but the user reviews and pictures on here are so good. I don't want to double my price for minor improvements I wouldn't notice unless I'm looking for them (which I won't be).
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback!


Yes there is a difference. Is it a gamebreaker? Absolutely not. You will get some color banding that is noticeable at times. Its not in every frame or scene, it all depends. Like if I play PUBG or Pcars2. If you look up into the blue sky, you will see some banding in the blue. Most of the time it is not noticeable at all. It would be awesome if we could have got 4K/60 12 bit HDR, but that is impossible. However, I game all the time in 4K/60hz 8 bit (using a Linker) and love it. From time to time I take the Linker off just to compare and immediately put it back on since to me, looks that much better, even though its 8 bit.


----------



## cjsparky

Just clicked purchase on a 5040ub at the sales price today, and a Silver Ticket acoustic transparent from Amazon.

Hoping I get a good one! 

Anyone have advice on an HDMI cable for this? I am guessing 25 feet will work just fine for me.


----------



## ayrton

cjsparky said:


> Just clicked purchase on a 5040ub at the sales price today, and a Silver Ticket acoustic transparent from Amazon.
> 
> Hoping I get a good one!
> 
> Anyone have advice on an HDMI cable for this? I am guessing 25 feet will work just fine for me.


Try this:

https://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024021


----------



## inspector

ayrton said:


> Try this:
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024021


I use the Monoprice directional Cabernet High Speed 45' and it has worked for 10 months now!


----------



## inspector

db999md said:


> I had an epson 5040ub that worked fine for about 15 months. During that time I would guess that I had to unplug and replug it like 4 times total to get it to power on. About 1 month ago I upgraded some stuff and re-wired everything. After that time I had to unplug the projector and replug it for it to turn on.
> 
> I called epson and got a replacement. the replacement was doing the same thing. I then totally disabled hdmi link and it does not happen any more. You have to disable HDMI link completely, not just the power control.
> 
> they have a firmware bug.
> 
> FWIW, The new equipment is Denon X4300h and I have samsung UHD blu-ray, tivo, nvidia shield, and roku premieme +.
> The only major thing that changed was the receiver so mabe that is the incompatibilty.
> 
> FYI both projectors had the same firmware revision
> 
> Dennis



I just purchased a new Denon 4300 last week and it's plugged into my Sammy K8500 and it works flawlessly. I don't have any of the other stuff you mention.


----------



## Uppsalaing

I got my first minor dust spot after 450 hours of use... To be fair, the climate here is fairly dusty (not quite like the scenes from Interstellar, but dusty enough to matter )... The room itself is kept clean.

It's a very small and faint spot that I can only see when up at the screen to make adjustments, not visible at all from my viewing position...

I think I should have paid a bit more and gotten a projector that doesn't have this design problem (Epson laser or JVC?), but I don't regret my purchase. I just know that this projector won't last many years at this rate, whereas I was prepared to keep it for a long time (5 years) as I like the image it makes and i'm not the kind of person to upgrade regularly...

It's not a problem yet, but maybe at some point I'll have to look into if epson will clean it for me for a price...


----------



## db999md

There are many variables in this equation and I definitely have not done all the work necessary to isolate the issue. Part of the problem is I don't get so many attempts per day to do it. Anyway what I would ask is that if anyone gets this problem where they have to unplug and plug the projector back in to get it to turn on try disabling HDMI Link in the settings menu of the projector to see if that fixes it. Would like to get some more people showing this to be the issue so that maybe we can have Epson fix this. I like to use HDMI link to control the Nvidia Shield which does not have an IR on it



inspector said:


> db999md said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had an epson 5040ub that worked fine for about 15 months. During that time I would guess that I had to unplug and replug it like 4 times total to get it to power on. About 1 month ago I upgraded some stuff and re-wired everything. After that time I had to unplug the projector and replug it for it to turn on.
> 
> I called epson and got a replacement. the replacement was doing the same thing. I then totally disabled hdmi link and it does not happen any more. You have to disable HDMI link completely, not just the power control.
> 
> they have a firmware bug.
> 
> FWIW, The new equipment is Denon X4300h and I have samsung UHD blu-ray, tivo, nvidia shield, and roku premieme +.
> The only major thing that changed was the receiver so mabe that is the incompatibilty.
> 
> FYI both projectors had the same firmware revision
> 
> Dennis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just purchased a new Denon 4300 last week and it's plugged into my Sammy K8500 and it works flawlessly. I don't have any of the other stuff you mention.
Click to expand...


----------



## mckracken88

I am worried about dust spots. (have one on older tw6100) 
So i wanted to ask: Is anyone else using a dust cover (i use the one that came with the original box) for the projector when it's not in use?

Would that make a difference when it's not turned on? (since there is no air circulating inside?)


----------



## Uppsalaing

mckracken88 said:


> I am worried about dust spots. (have one on older tw6100)
> So i wanted to ask: Is anyone else using a dust cover (i use the one that came with the original box) for the projector when it's not in use?
> 
> Would that make a difference when it's not turned on?


If you are worried buy a different model projector.

It's not worth the stress of waiting for the first spot or the regret of getting a spot, especially as you have already been through this with an earlier projector.


----------



## Mr.G

mckracken88 said:


> I am worried about dust spots. (have one on older tw6100)
> So i wanted to ask: Is anyone else using a dust cover (i use the one that came with the original box) for the projector when it's not in use?
> 
> Would that make a difference when it's not turned on? (since there is no air circulating inside?)


I don't believe that a dust cover helps at all. Generally the dust blobs that appear in LCD projectors are created during the time they are operating. Dust accumulates over time as room air is ingested to cool the lamp. Sometimes the dust breaks free from where it has accumulated (often around the power supply fan) and lands on an LCD panel where it sticks. Sometimes the dust breaks free and passes through the projector and is expelled out the exhaust vent. I've owned several LCD projectors and only had to clean a dust blob from one - the Panasonic AR100U - so it hasn't been a big issue for me.


----------



## mckracken88

Mr.G said:


> I don't believe that a dust cover helps at all. Generally the dust blobs that appear in LCD projectors are created during the time they are operating. Dust accumulates over time as room air is ingested to cool the lamp. Sometimes the dust breaks free from where it has accumulated (often around the power supply fan) and lands on an LCD panel where it sticks. Sometimes the dust breaks free and passes through the projector and is expelled out the exhaust vent. I've owned several LCD projectors and only had to clean a dust blob from one - the Panasonic AR100U - so it hasn't been a big issue for me.


I suppose you open your windows a lot for fresh air? And how often do you clean your filter? I was kind of lazy with my old Epson, didn't think much of the dust issues ive read...I cleaned it maybe once a year, let alone bought a new one...


----------



## Deftec

Juiced46 said:


> Good luck, I hope it works out for you. Here is the comparison of Upscaled 4K no HDR (No Linker) to 4K/HDR (with Linker)
> 
> NO LINKER
> 
> WITH LINKER
> 
> I rest my case


Hi Juiced46 - Above is one of your old post with pic, wanted to double check with you, HD Linker is just the linker between your source and the avr/projector, it is not another streaming device, right? The reason I am asking last weekend i bought Nvidia Shield but I found that it is another streaming device which i was not looking for. My main purpose is to connect between my streaming player (Roku) and my avr to get BT 2020 HDR as most of them show up as BT709 SDR, I believe linker can help to improve the image and also get the hdr content through pj.


----------



## Deftec

robc1976 said:


> One thing I did was up saturation to 68, tint to 58.
> 
> Made huge difference.
> .
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Thank you Robc1976 for your suggestion, it did make huge difference, now I changed my settings back to Oldert's setting with above changes.


----------



## Mr.G

mckracken88 said:


> I suppose you open your windows a lot for fresh air? And how often do you clean your filter? I was kind of lazy with my old Epson, didn't think much of the dust issues ive read...I cleaned it maybe once a year, let alone bought a new one...


No, my windows are generally always closed even though it's a family room/home theater. I think filter cleaning should be done at least every 500 hours. However the filter really doesn't have anything to do with dust blobs, a clean filter helps the air flow to cool the lamp while operating. Dust blobs inside a projector are created from air inlets that have no filter.


----------



## old corps

inspector said:


> I use the Monoprice directional Cabernet High Speed 45' and it has worked for 10 months now!


I've got the exact same cable (45' as well) and have been using it for at least a couple of years with no problems. I was sure I'd need to upgrade for 4K & HDR but to my surprise it wasn't necessary.


Ed


----------



## Juiced46

Deftec said:


> Hi Juiced46 - Above is one of your old post with pic, wanted to double check with you, HD Linker is just the linker between your source and the avr/projector, it is not another streaming device, right? The reason I am asking last weekend i bought Nvidia Shield but I found that it is another streaming device which i was not looking for. My main purpose is to connect between my streaming player (Roku) and my avr to get BT 2020 HDR as most of them show up as BT709 SDR, I believe linker can help to improve the image and also get the hdr content through pj.


The Linker is NOT a streaming device. It alters the signal to an acceptable signal (that you set) that the projector can use. You can put it between the AVR and Projector. 

With that being said. I am not familiar with the Roku or Nvidia Shield, but I know there is alot of talk about it in this thread. 

If those streaming devices are outputting at 4K/60hz HDR it will not work. If you can manually set either of them to 4K/24hz 12bit, then it will be a signal the Epson can accept and you have no need for the Linker at all. There is tons of talk about both of those streaming devices. You may be able to get what you have now to work without having to spend $$ on the Linker. You just need the correct settings.


----------



## mrbeezly

Did we ever get updated settings with the latest firmware? Oledurt or Dave updating setting?


----------



## Viche

Juiced46 said:


> If your images look bad, either you did not enter the settings correctly. Or your projector is not receiving an HDR signal, I know you mentioned what you are outputting but what is the PJ actually getting?. What does the projector info screen show?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes there is a difference. Is it a gamebreaker? Absolutely not. You will get some color banding that is noticeable at times. Its not in every frame or scene, it all depends. Like if I play PUBG or Pcars2. If you look up into the blue sky, you will see some banding in the blue. Most of the time it is not noticeable at all. It would be awesome if we could have got 4K/60 12 bit HDR, but that is impossible. However, I game all the time in 4K/60hz 8 bit (using a Linker) and love it. From time to time I take the Linker off just to compare and immediately put it back on since to me, looks that much better, even though its 8 bit.


Juiced,

How does 4K/60hz 8 bit HDR compare to 1080p/60hz 12 bit HDR upscaled via faux-K. I would think the images would be similar with the PS4‘s latest patch that allows for 4k prerendering, and also that frame rate would be better in 1080p mode.

Are you not able to select from the various options on PS4 ( performance, better graphics, 4K) if you output in 1080P? 

Does the link or add any input lag? Anyone actually tested this?


----------



## sid369

Hi all, I am new to the projector world and considering a 4k projector. I know this is an older model, but if someone is buying a 4k projector today, would this projector still be recommended compared to the new Benq 2550 or the Optoma.
Since, I couldn't make up my mind, I bought 2 1080p projectors, the new Benq 2050a and the Epson 3700, but both of them don't look sharp to me, I am looking for sharpness that I get from my tv, crisp text and sharp images. it will be used in the basement with some ambient light. I am considering returning both and trying the Benq 2550, but wanted to know if I should consider this projector as well. I will be watching 4k Netflix, amazon prime, movies iTunes and gaming. 
Does apple tv 4k HDR work with this projector? what's the warranty and customer service or Epson like? I will be using it shelf mounted, with a soundbar HDMI connected to the projector, ATV 4k and will be shelf mounting and projecting on a 135" silver ticket white screen.


----------



## gene4ht

sid369 said:


> Hi all, I am new to the projector world and considering a 4k projector. I know this is an older model, but if someone is buying a 4k projector today, would this projector still be recommended compared to the new Benq 2550 or the Optoma.
> Since, I couldn't make up my mind, I bought 2 1080p projectors, the new Benq 2050a and the Epson 3700, but both of them don't look sharp to me, I am looking for sharpness that I get from my tv, crisp text and sharp images. it will be used in the basement with some ambient light. I am considering returning both and trying the Benq 2550, but wanted to know if I should consider this projector as well. I will be watching 4k Netflix, amazon prime, movies iTunes and gaming.
> Does apple tv 4k HDR work with this projector? what's the warranty and customer service or Epson like? I will be using it shelf mounted, with a soundbar HDMI connected to the projector, ATV 4k and will be shelf mounting and projecting on a 135" silver ticket white screen.


Keep in mind given the same resolution, the larger the image, the less sharp the image will be for any display device. This being said, the performance of the 5040 is outstanding in terms of sharpness, brightness, and color fidelity for projectors. And you're asking in an Epson 5040 thread, so the expected responses here will be heavily positive. And there are always a few who are disgruntled...no matter what. Also, be aware that this particular model has had some issues with a failing power supply. But Epson has been responding and immediately replacing those failed units. It appears that this has not deterred folks from purchasing. Overall the owners here are all impressed with 4K as well upscaled 1080 to 4K image quality. I would recommend ordering one from a dealer with a liberal return policy and see for yourself.


----------



## robc1976

Dumb question, my receiver has a Dolby vision update. Will this do anything for our projector? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

Viche said:


> Juiced,
> 
> How does 4K/60hz 8 bit HDR compare to 1080p/60hz 12 bit HDR upscaled via faux-K. I would think the images would be similar with the PS4‘s latest patch that allows for 4k prerendering, and also that frame rate would be better in 1080p mode.
> 
> Are you not able to select from the various options on PS4 ( performance, better graphics, 4K) if you output in 1080P?
> 
> Does the link or add any input lag? Anyone actually tested this?


With PS4 and NO Linker, you can select between 4K/60 NO HDR, or 1080p/60 with HDR. There is no framerate difference that I can see between 4K/60 and 1080P/60. The only thing is that if you use 1080P you can then use FI which you cannot use with 4K. 

4K/60hz 8 bit HDR to me looks better. You do get color banding at times, but nothing that is a big deal. I have not spent much time with 1080P/HDR upscaling to 4K with the PS4 as I only play 1 game on PS4 so it does not get turned on much.


----------



## ht guy

robc1976 said:


> Dumb question, my receiver has a Dolby vision update. Will this do anything for our projector?


nope.


----------



## robc1976

ht guy said:


> nope.


Thank you

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

robc1976 said:


> Dumb question, my receiver has a Dolby vision update. Will this do anything for our projector?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


No...Dolby Vision is a non starter for projectors at this time. As I understand it, DV requires a display device to report the amount of nits which PJ’s are technically unable to do currently. There are some that believe it will be a long time, if ever, for PJ’s to overcome this challenge.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...041-dolby-vision-coming-front-projectors.html


----------



## robc1976

gene4ht said:


> No...Dolby Vision is a non starter for projectors at this time. As I understand it, DV requires a display device to report the amount of nits which PJ’s are technically unable to do currently. There are some that believe it will be a long time, if ever, for PJ’s to overcome this challenge.


I will not update then, thank you

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Baratum

Good afternoon, tell me please in the control panel nvidia need to expose rgb full / limited or ycbcr444, 8 or 12 bits, and in general this parameter affects the color rendition? I'm looking at sdr basically 1080p from the computer. Permission to set 1080p and include 4k enhancement or to set own resolution 4k but 4k enhancement is not available? Rec2020 and hdr will not work if the signal comes from the computer? Sorry I'm asking stupid questions, I do not understand at all. Thank you in advance.


----------



## chickenbc49

mrbeezly said:


> Did we ever get updated settings with the latest firmware? Oledurt or Dave updating setting?



i look for this information too !


----------



## The_Forth_Man

mrbeezly said:


> Did we ever get updated settings with the latest firmware? Oledurt or Dave updating setting?





chickenbc49 said:


> i look for this information too !


If I'm not mistaken it was said (by Mr. Harper) and others that the latest firmware only affected the HDR portion of our projectors so it didn't have any effect on the tweak using the SDR color range.

Also I seem to remember that Oledurt said that he would look into it (but dont quote me on that).

Dave said that he would love to get is hand on a 5040 to see what he could do with the updates. He offered free calibration of the unit if someone sent him one. Some members seemed to be interested but I dont know if they ended up doing it. 

I do try to follow but so many daily post this thread is a whirlwind.


----------



## murphy4040

*Will the 5040 fit in my setup*

I'm looking to pull the trigger on a new projector and, with the recent price drop/promotion, leaning heavily toward the 5040. However, I'm a bit worried about size. I built a soffit of sorts as you can see in the picture (to accommodate the throw distance for my first projector almost 20 years ago). 

The depth is just under 19 inches, about an inch more than the 17.7 spec for the Epson. I suspect that's not enough room, but I can also move the projector forward so that the feet are on the front edge of the box and the lens and front of the case stick out over the edge. 

It LOOKS like that will give me another 1 or 2 inches. So, two questions: how much extra space will positioning it that way buy me? Will 2 or 3 inches be enough space in the back? Thanks!


----------



## The_Forth_Man

murphy4040 said:


> I'm looking to pull the trigger on a new projector and, with the recent price drop/promotion, leaning heavily toward the 5040. However, I'm a bit worried about size. I built a soffit of sorts as you can see in the picture (to accommodate the throw distance for my first projector almost 20 years ago).
> 
> The depth is just under 19 inches, about an inch more than the 17.7 spec for the Epson. I suspect that's not enough room, but I can also move the projector forward so that the feet are on the front edge of the box and the lens and front of the case stick out over the edge.
> 
> It LOOKS like that will give me another 1 or 2 inches. So, two questions: how much extra space will positioning it that way buy me? Will 2 or 3 inches be enough space in the back? Thanks!


Actually all the vent are in the front and the section where the wire hook up is recessed by slightly more than 2 inches so if you have few/thin cable you can but it against the back. Also the measurement from the back of the unit to the front of front foot is slightly less than 14 inches. 

So I would say that if the throw range is good for your screen set up your box will fit perfectly the 5040 for depth.


----------



## murphy4040

The_Forth_Man said:


> Actually all the vent are in the front and the section where the wire hook up is recessed by slightly more than 2 inches so if you have few/thin cable you can but it against the back. Also the measurement from the back of the unit to the front of front foot is slightly less than 14 inches.
> 
> So I would say that if the throw range is good for your screen set up your box will fit perfectly the 5040 for depth.


Excellent! Thanks so much for the quick response.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

murphy4040 said:


> Excellent! Thanks so much for the quick response.


Your very welcome. It was pretty easy as I actually had my hands on the Projector and a tape measure 

Make sure the width fits also its big friggin Pj


----------



## murphy4040

murphy4040 said:


> Excellent! Thanks so much for the quick response.





The_Forth_Man said:


> Your very welcome. It was pretty easy as I actually had my hands on the Projector and a tape measure
> 
> Make sure the width fits also its big friggin Pj


Indeed, that I also checked, and the box is 28.5 inches wide, so about 4 inches on each side. It will be cozy in there.


----------



## bullpuss

Hi anyone on here ever tried to do a DIY anamorphic lens for this projector.....if so please let me know how to.
thanks in advance.


----------



## terminal33

With the Apple TV 4K, when playing a Dolby Vision movie, our projector shows reads HDR 2020 in the "Info." But is that really what's getting displayed onto the screen?


----------



## Uppsalaing

terminal33 said:


> With the Apple TV 4K, when playing a Dolby Vision movie, our projector shows reads HDR 2020 in the "Info." But is that really what's getting displayed onto the screen?


Do you have "Match Range" set to "on" in the AppleTV4K settings?

It should be set to on to ensure that that is what you're getting. Check the projector info afterwards to make sure.


----------



## Mr.G

terminal33 said:


> With the Apple TV 4K, when playing a Dolby Vision movie, our projector shows reads HDR 2020 in the "Info." But is that really what's getting displayed onto the screen?


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...-apple-tv-owners-thread-656.html#post55812640


----------



## terminal33

Uppsalaing said:


> Do you have "Match Range" set to "on" in the AppleTV4K settings?
> 
> It should be set to on to ensure that that is what you're getting. Check the projector info afterwards to make sure.


Yes.



Mr.G said:


> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...-apple-tv-owners-thread-656.html#post55812640


Thanks! So if I'm reading it correctly... the ATV will convert DV to HDR10 since the Epson can't do DV. Thus we get a "converted" HDR picture, but it's better than no HDR?


----------



## Mr.G

terminal33 said:


> Thanks! So if I'm reading it correctly... the ATV will convert DV to HDR10 since the Epson can't do DV. Thus we get a "converted" HDR picture, but it's better than no HDR?


The Apple TV 4K converts the DV feed to HDR10...correct. The Epson is perfectly capable of displaying BT.2020 HDR as I have sometimes streamed Netflix UHD shows using my Sony X800.


----------



## am2model3

pros and cons. 

i bought and demoed a 5040ub, the 4k image sharpness wasn't good enough for me. (PC games, 2160p, 4k60) its 10.2gbps HDMI input limitation as well. it shifts 1080 x 2 to get 4 mill pixels.

I own and love the optoma uhd60! 4k image sharpness guaranteed! pc games 2160p, 4k60 look amazing! its 18gbps HDMI input handles everything you can throw at it for true HDMI 2.0. it shifts 4millx2 dmd micromirrors to get 8 mill pixels. it looks incredible. my PC games at 4k astound me everything i boot up and play! UHD 4k blu rays look stellar as well, 24hz input cinema smooth! 

pros and cons of each of course; but for the features that I care about, the optoma uhd60 is incredible value for the price. 
i project to 16:9 at 135in diagonal. Dolby Atmos/DTS:X 5.1.4 sound system, Denon x4300h.


----------



## Uppsalaing

am2model3 said:


> pros and cons.
> 
> i bought and demoed a 5040ub, the 4k image sharpness wasn't good enough for me. (PC games, 2160p, 4k60) its 10.2gbps HDMI input limitation as well. it shifts 1080 x 2 to get 4 mill pixels.
> 
> I own and love the optoma uhd60! 4k image sharpness guaranteed! pc games 2160p, 4k60 look amazing! its 18gbps HDMI input handles everything you can throw at it for true HDMI 2.0. it shifts 4millx2 dmd micromirrors to get 8 mill pixels. it looks incredible. my PC games at 4k astound me everything i boot up and play! UHD 4k blu rays look stellar as well, 24hz input cinema smooth!
> 
> pros and cons of each of course; but for the features that I care about, the optoma uhd60 is incredible value for the price.
> i project to 16:9 at 135in diagonal. Dolby Atmos/DTS:X 5.1.4 sound system, Denon x4300h.


Glad you made the right choice for you... I chose the Epson because I only watch movies, so ultimate video game 4K sharpness and frame rates do not matter to me at all.

Colour, contrast and motorised optics were key for me... To get better at the time would have meant buying a much more expensive projector...


----------



## LumensLover

am2model3 said:


> pros and cons.
> 
> i bought and demoed a 5040ub, the 4k image sharpness wasn't good enough for me. (PC games, 2160p, 4k60) its 10.2gbps HDMI input limitation as well. it shifts 1080 x 2 to get 4 mill pixels.
> 
> I own and love the optoma uhd60! 4k image sharpness guaranteed! pc games 2160p, 4k60 look amazing! its 18gbps HDMI input handles everything you can throw at it for true HDMI 2.0. it shifts 4millx2 dmd micromirrors to get 8 mill pixels. it looks incredible. my PC games at 4k astound me everything i boot up and play! UHD 4k blu rays look stellar as well, 24hz input cinema smooth!
> 
> pros and cons of each of course; but for the features that I care about, the optoma uhd60 is incredible value for the price.
> i project to 16:9 at 135in diagonal. Dolby Atmos/DTS:X 5.1.4 sound system, Denon x4300h.


How are the black levels on the UH60 compared to the Epson 5040UB?


----------



## jwhn

terminal33 said:


> So if I'm reading it correctly... the ATV will convert DV to HDR10 since the Epson can't do DV. Thus we get a "converted" HDR picture, but it's better than no HDR?


Here is more information about the conversion you mentioned. I'm not sure if this is correct or not but the person does cite sources if you read through all the comments. 

https://www.reddit.com/r/appletv/comments/7fpvk3/how_are_movies_with_dolby_vision_icons_played_on/

The key excerpt from the post:

"Dolby Vision does indeed support both single-layer and double-layer encoding. The double-layer encoding will usually have HDR10 as its "base" layer and Dolby Vision bits as the "enhancement" layer, and that's how it is on UHD Blu-ray.

Apple TV on the other hand does not support double-layer Dolby Vision playback, only single-layer. All the Dolby Vision content on iTunes is single-layer, so there is no HDR10 base layer. The Apple TV tries to convert the Dolby Vision encoding to HDR10, but it's not perfect, and it doesn't produce a result as good as having an HDR10 base layer would."


----------



## blackbelt

gene4ht said:


> No...Dolby Vision is a non starter for projectors at this time. As I understand it, DV requires a display device to report the amount of nits which PJ’s are technically unable to do currently. There are some that believe it will be a long time, if ever, for PJ’s to overcome this challenge.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...041-dolby-vision-coming-front-projectors.html


Thanks for the info I was wanting to know that also. I just looked back at this thread for that information.


----------



## WynsWrld98

am2model3 said:


> pros and cons.
> 
> i bought and demoed a 5040ub, the 4k image sharpness wasn't good enough for me. (PC games, 2160p, 4k60) its 10.2gbps HDMI input limitation as well. it shifts 1080 x 2 to get 4 mill pixels.
> 
> I own and love the optoma uhd60! 4k image sharpness guaranteed! pc games 2160p, 4k60 look amazing! its 18gbps HDMI input handles everything you can throw at it for true HDMI 2.0. it shifts 4millx2 dmd micromirrors to get 8 mill pixels. it looks incredible. my PC games at 4k astound me everything i boot up and play! UHD 4k blu rays look stellar as well, 24hz input cinema smooth!
> 
> pros and cons of each of course; but for the features that I care about, the optoma uhd60 is incredible value for the price.
> i project to 16:9 at 135in diagonal. Dolby Atmos/DTS:X 5.1.4 sound system, Denon x4300h.


With a ceiling mount, how's the vertical lens shift work on the UHD60 with a CIH setup? It doesn't. I'm loving my 5040 in a CIH setup with memories for 16:9 and 2.4:1 the push of a button to switch between them.


----------



## Viche

am2model3 said:


> pros and cons.
> 
> i bought and demoed a 5040ub, the 4k image sharpness wasn't good enough for me. (PC games, 2160p, 4k60) its 10.2gbps HDMI input limitation as well. it shifts 1080 x 2 to get 4 mill pixels.
> 
> I own and love the optoma uhd60! 4k image sharpness guaranteed! pc games 2160p, 4k60 look amazing! its 18gbps HDMI input handles everything you can throw at it for true HDMI 2.0. it shifts 4millx2 dmd micromirrors to get 8 mill pixels. it looks incredible. my PC games at 4k astound me everything i boot up and play! UHD 4k blu rays look stellar as well, 24hz input cinema smooth!
> 
> pros and cons of each of course; but for the features that I care about, the optoma uhd60 is incredible value for the price.
> i project to 16:9 at 135in diagonal. Dolby Atmos/DTS:X 5.1.4 sound system, Denon x4300h.


Input Lag: The UHD60 has an input lag of 63 ms with Dynamic Black on and 56 ms with Dynamic Black off. Too slow.

Give us a 5045 with 18gbps and a decent price and these dlps will be dead in the water.


----------



## Mr.G

jwhn said:


> Here is more information about the conversion you mentioned. I'm not sure if this is correct or not but the person does cite sources if you read through all the comments.
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/appletv/comments/7fpvk3/how_are_movies_with_dolby_vision_icons_played_on/
> 
> The key excerpt from the post:
> 
> "Dolby Vision does indeed support both single-layer and double-layer encoding. The double-layer encoding will usually have HDR10 as its "base" layer and Dolby Vision bits as the "enhancement" layer, and that's how it is on UHD Blu-ray.
> 
> Apple TV on the other hand does not support double-layer Dolby Vision playback, only single-layer. All the Dolby Vision content on iTunes is single-layer, so there is no HDR10 base layer. The Apple TV tries to convert the Dolby Vision encoding to HDR10, but it's not perfect, and it doesn't produce a result as good as having an HDR10 base layer would."


In the end it probably doesn't matter much when considering the limitations of streaming video where most videos are output at 24 fps to save on bandwidth and the different compression algorithms used. I have found movie streaming quality from iTunes, VUDU, Google Play, Amazon and Movies Anywhere to be acceptable - and sometimes surprisingly good. If I want reference I can always pop in the UHD Blu-ray.


----------



## buntcake72

Viche said:


> Input Lag: The UHD60 has an input lag of 63 ms with Dynamic Black on and 56 ms with Dynamic Black off. Too slow.
> 
> 
> 
> Give us a 5045 with 18gbps and a decent price and these dlps will be dead in the water.




I hear that and I have the 5040 but I am really interested in seeeing how the uhd60 looks in HDR/4K by comparison. I’m on the fence. I use my projector for mostly 4K streaming and 4K Blu Ray. I only have about 4 3d films so I don’t care about that. However the lens shift is great on the 5040. Maybe I should just wait for the latest Epson update instead.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bigmixx

Viche said:


> Input Lag: The UHD60 has an input lag of 63 ms with Dynamic Black on and 56 ms with Dynamic Black off. Too slow.
> 
> Give us a 5045 with 18gbps and a decent price and these dlps will be dead in the water.


 Agreed. The 5040 is so intriguing especially with the current price drop. My 5030 is humming along but it's a struggle for gaming right now. Epson needs to announce a 5045 or 5050 or whatever real soon.


----------



## jwhn

Mr.G said:


> In the end it probably doesn't matter much when considering the limitations of streaming video where most videos are output at 24 fps to save on bandwidth and the different compression algorithms used. I have found movie streaming quality from iTunes, VUDU, Google Play, Amazon and Movies Anywhere to be acceptable - and sometimes surprisingly good. If I want reference I can always pop in the UHD Blu-ray.



UHD Blu rays are at 24fps, no?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

bigmixx said:


> Agreed. The 5040 is so intriguing especially with the current price drop. My 5030 is humming along but it's a struggle for gaming right now. Epson needs to announce a 5045 or 5050 or whatever real soon.


I'm betting they're going to be releasing the replacement for the 5040 by this fall. This is why I would not buy a 5040 now since it's going to be most likely replaced before the end of the year.


----------



## cjsparky

LumensLover said:


> I'm betting they're going to be releasing the replacement for the 5040 by this fall. This is why I would not buy a 5040 now since it's going to be most likely replaced before the end of the year.


Was thinking the exact same thing, but I decided to go ahead and take the plunge. I am upgrading from a 6 year old 50" TV so the 5040 should be a huge upgrade for me, and if I get unlucky with the power supply issue, I can try to work an upgrade to the new version.


----------



## bigmixx

LumensLover said:


> I'm betting they're going to be releasing the replacement for the 5040 by this fall. This is why I would not buy a 5040 now since it's going to be most likely replaced before the end of the year.


I hope you're right. I'm a little less optimistic than you are but I'm going to wait it out. Either that or up my budget to a Sony.


----------



## bigmixx

cjsparky said:


> Was thinking the exact same thing, but I decided to go ahead and take the plunge. I am upgrading from a 6 year old 50" TV so the 5040 should be a huge upgrade for me, and if I get unlucky with the power supply issue, I can try to work an upgrade to the new version.


 I'm sure you're going to love the 5040 then. I went from a 58" plasma to a 110" screen with the 5030 and it's amazing. The 110 seems small now so I'm probably going to go with a 135" when I decide to upgrade.


----------



## am2model3

pros and cons the 5040ub has better contrast than uhd60; and the 5040 has better lens shift capabilities, automatic up/down/left/right. You have to pick what things you really want. the 5040ub is pretty "massive" in size; so don't let the pictures online fool you; look at the measurements; its a beast! 

if you only watch movies and video; 5040ub might be for you. if you want fast pixel response, sharp games, uhd60. uhd60 does a decent job for movies though, HDR, 24hz 4K impresses me enough.


----------



## Mr.G

jwhn said:


> UHD Blu rays are at 24fps, no?


True, but frames per second is not the whole story. A UHD Blu-ray (Thor: Ragnarok) for example is a BD-66 disc that has a data rate of 108 Mbps while Netflix recommends a streaming speed of 25 Mbps for UHD.


----------



## cjsparky

Mr.G said:


> True, but frames per second is not the whole story. A UHD Blu-ray (Thor: Ragnarok) for example is a BD-66 disc that has a data rate of 108 Mbps while Netflix recommends a streaming speed of 25 Mbps for UHD.


I am a noob to all this tech. If a UHD Blu-ray is 108 Mbps, why is the 10Gbps HDMI connection such a big negative? Is HDR really that large?


----------



## Mr.G

cjsparky said:


> I am a noob to all this tech. If a UHD Blu-ray is 108 Mbps, why is the 10Gbps HDMI connection such a big negative? Is HDR really that large?


I understand your confusion. The 108 Mbps data rate is what is stored on the UHD Blu-ray. The UHD Blu-ray player takes this data and sends the 4K bandwidth signal to the projector which requires the high speed HDMI cable and the 10.2 Gbps chipset in the projector. Some basic 8 bit conversion examples are included below...both 24 Hz and 60 Hz...which show why the larger HDMI pipeline is required.


----------



## gnoid

*Gotta say*

I have to say that in the few weeks that I've had the 5040ub that I've barely turned on my LG OLED.
No problems with the power supply so far.
Yes, this thing is a beast. Someone aptly described it as a beached whale,but the picture is amazing.


----------



## Upswright1

LumensLover said:


> I'm betting they're going to be releasing the replacement for the 5040 by this fall. This is why I would not buy a 5040 now since it's going to be most likely replaced before the end of the year.


I bought the 5040ube as an upgrade for my 5020 wanting to get into 4k. Thought it was nice, then saw the hc4000 for 1K less and got it. Have been very happy with it. Frustrated with the 10.2gb throttle however as we all seem to be
The HC4000 is a nice step until the 18 gb epson comes out.
This is my 3rd Epson projector and they all have worked great for my needs.


----------



## Upswright1

JewDaddy said:


> I did. In fact, after a process of elimination test, it seems that once I took my receiver out of the equation and went Direct from the projector to the Linker and then to either my PS4 Pro or One X, I was able to get 4K HDR Gaming. I guess that’s good and bad. Good because I know it’s an issue with the receiver, bad because it’s an issue with my receiver. Lol.
> 
> The strange thing is that my Yamaha receiver passes HDR fine watching UHD movies and playing games at 1080p but there’s a definite issue playing games at 4K with HDR. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I had to upgrade my reciever from an older onky 4k to the Denon x2300 to get the linker to work properly. Signal would not pass through properly even in bypass mode with Onkyo.


----------



## Viche

am2model3 said:


> pros and cons the 5040ub has better contrast than uhd60; and the 5040 has better lens shift capabilities, automatic up/down/left/right. You have to pick what things you really want. the 5040ub is pretty "massive" in size; so don't let the pictures online fool you; look at the measurements; its a beast!
> 
> if you only watch movies and video; 5040ub might be for you.  if you want fast pixel response, sharp games, uhd60. uhd60 does a decent job for movies though, HDR, 24hz 4K impresses me enough.


Projector central actually thinks the 5040 is a bit “sharper” than the uhd65. They say the 65 has more light for HDR, but they’re not using Harper Vision, and I’m sure their review is from before the latest firmware. 5040 has lower input lag for gaming, better blacks, better placement flexibility, and no chance of rainbow artifacts. 65 can do frame interpolation on 4K. 5040 does 3D.

How big of a deal is faster pixel response for gaming/movies? How noticeable?

A 5045/5050 with 18gbps and a slightly upgraded chipset would solve FI and gaming issues. A brighter image would just be icing on the cake and prevent you from having to use high lamp for HDR. Not sure how they could achieve this.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-5040ub-vs-Optoma-UHD65-review.htm


----------



## Dominic Chan

Viche said:


> Projector central actually thinks the 5040 is a bit “sharper” than the uhd65.


I believe that comment was only for 1080p source.


----------



## Viche

Dominic Chan said:


> I believe that comment was only for 1080p source.



It’s for all resolutions. Less so for 4k, but still present. Advantage the 65 has is brightness for HDR, but again this is without Harper Vision and before the recent firmware update.

Image Sharpness. With all three types of input, there's a small difference in image sharpness in the HC 5040UB's favor. However, the details and impact on overall quality vary from most important at 1080p to least important at 4K with HDR.

Based on specs, the UHD65 has a higher resolution than the HC 5040UB. Its DLP chip delivers a full 3840x2160, or 8.3 million, pixels on screen. The HC 5040UB's pixel shifting with 1080p chips delivers a pixel count well short of that, despite looking similar to the human eye. That said, there's a difference between resolution specs and the ability to resolve detail. The HC 5040UB resolves detail better largely due to its higher quality lens, though its video processing (Super Resolution and Detail Enhancement) may play a part as well. The incremental advantage is primarily in details so fine that you probably wouldn't notice them if you weren't looking for them. With 4K input, fine detail is a little more obvious than with the UHD65. With a 1080p signal, details you can barely see on the UHD65 are clearer on the HC 5040UB.

In the end, the 5040UB's edge in video detail resolution isn't much, but simply being able to match the UHD65 would be an accomplishment in itself. Doing a little better is remarkable. For 4K and 1080p input with SDR, it helps give the HC 5040UB an ever-so-slight edge overall--as long as you don't count its limitations for FI. For 4K with HDR, however, other factors matter more.


----------



## bigmixx

Viche said:


> It’s for all resolutions. Less so for 4k, but still present. Advantage the 65 has is brightness for HDR, but again this is without Harper Vision and before the recent firmware update.
> 
> Image Sharpness. With all three types of input, there's a small difference in image sharpness in the HC 5040UB's favor. However, the details and impact on overall quality vary from most important at 1080p to least important at 4K with HDR.
> 
> Based on specs, the UHD65 has a higher resolution than the HC 5040UB. Its DLP chip delivers a full 3840x2160, or 8.3 million, pixels on screen. The HC 5040UB's pixel shifting with 1080p chips delivers a pixel count well short of that, despite looking similar to the human eye. That said, there's a difference between resolution specs and the ability to resolve detail. The HC 5040UB resolves detail better largely due to its higher quality lens, though its video processing (Super Resolution and Detail Enhancement) may play a part as well. The incremental advantage is primarily in details so fine that you probably wouldn't notice them if you weren't looking for them. With 4K input, fine detail is a little more obvious than with the UHD65. With a 1080p signal, details you can barely see on the UHD65 are clearer on the HC 5040UB.
> 
> In the end, the 5040UB's edge in video detail resolution isn't much, but simply being able to match the UHD65 would be an accomplishment in itself. Doing a little better is remarkable. For 4K and 1080p input with SDR, it helps give the HC 5040UB an ever-so-slight edge overall--as long as you don't count its limitations for FI. For 4K with HDR, however, other factors matter more.


How does the 5040 handle normal TV watching/sports? I have Directv at the moment so just curious how it handles that content.


----------



## Klipsch2010

bigmixx said:


> How does the 5040 handle normal TV watching/sports? I have Directv at the moment so just curious how it handles that content.


For anything under 4K, the 5040 is fantastic! I use it for my daily TV watching, streaming NHL games, and Blu-rays and would definitely recommend it for that. It's when you start doing 4K HDR where you start to hit the limitations of the projector. I eventually gave up trying to get HDR to look right after many attempts using the Harpervision or Oledurt settings and just have my Panasonic DMP-UB200 send rec709 on 4K Blu-rays now.


----------



## Upswright1

mase1981 said:


> You can either get the linker directly from the manufacturer: (Taiwan)
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> 
> Or you can get it from monoprice: (US)
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27330
> 
> [Update 12/11/2017] - Download and use firmware .25 (version 21), use the link below and go to download section.
> Manual, firmware, drivers and software can be found here:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/#tab-tab-download
> 
> You can either use a computer to do all that or buy an additional bluetooth adapter so you wont need a computer for the configuration (its just easier if you dont want to disconnect and move rooms each time, not a must:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/goblue/
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27329
> 
> Once you get it and put the 19a firmware, here are the config settings you need to do.
> added both from PC and via the Geo Blue.
> if you follow these settings exactly it will work with XB1S and get all greens.
> Honestly, this should be a sticky


When you watch a movie using xbones what settings do you use for hd fury Linker?
Thanks!


----------



## mase1981

Upswright1 said:


> When you watch a movie using xbones what settings do you use for hd fury Linker?
> Thanks!


All the settings are in the pics attached to my original post.


----------



## jwhn

Mr.G said:


> True, but frames per second is not the whole story. A UHD Blu-ray (Thor: Ragnarok) for example is a BD-66 disc that has a data rate of 108 Mbps while Netflix recommends a streaming speed of 25 Mbps for UHD.



I was commenting on your original post that suggested that frame rates were one of the factors that contributes to lower quality in streaming vs. disks. Seems to me that frame rates are not a factor (since both can be viewed at the same frame rate) and that it's the compression alone that reduces the quality.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mr.G

jwhn said:


> I was commenting on your original post that suggested that frame rates were one of the factors that contributes to lower quality in streaming vs. disks. Seems to me that frame rates are not a factor (since both can be viewed at the same frame rate) and that it's the compression alone that reduces the quality.


I see. My comment was just meant to highlight why the streaming services use 24 fps - because it's the most economical way of delivering their product.


----------



## robc1976

WynsWrld98 said:


> With a ceiling mount, how's the vertical lens shift work on the UHD60 with a CIH setup? It doesn't. I'm loving my 5040 in a CIH setup with memories for 16:9 and 2.4:1 the push of a button to switch between them.


My 1st & 2nd unit did this perfectly. My 3rd current unit I.have to readjust 1/2" to 3/4" and 1/2" on top. Never goes back exactly how I saved it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Very curious as to what lens preset everyone uses.

I think 4 looks best on games but strains my eyes.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## nwbearcat21

Just bought the 5040 and cant' wait to get it up and going. My question is about the mount. I have a 9 foot ceiling and will be using either a 100 or 106 inch 16:9 screen. I like the low profile mounts that are close to the ceiling. Would one of these be ok or does it need to hang down a certain distance? Thanks!


----------



## robc1976

Anybody have any suggestions for these settings (in game settings).

I haD maximum luminance at 1000 and it strained eyes so I turned it down and its much better, then figured I would ask what these should be set to.

Using digital cinema HV









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

robc1976 said:


> My 1st & 2nd unit did this perfectly. My 3rd current unit I.have to readjust 1/2" to 3/4" and 1/2" on top. Never goes back exactly how I saved it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


When the 5040 was introduced in 2016, many owners experienced this same memory adjustment oddity. Apparently, it's not a fault of the projector but how the memory is set. Epson subsequently issued a "recommended procedure" to set memory. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-140.html#post48985465


----------



## bigmixx

nwbearcat21 said:


> Just bought the 5040 and cant' wait to get it up and going. My question is about the mount. I have a 9 foot ceiling and will be using either a 100 or 106 inch 16:9 screen. I like the low profile mounts that are close to the ceiling. Would one of these be ok or does it need to hang down a certain distance? Thanks!


Should be fine. You might have to mount the screen a little higher up on the wall depending on your throw distance but you shouldn't have a problem.


----------



## robc1976

gene4ht said:


> When the 5040 was introduced in 2016, many owners experienced this same memory adjustment oddity. Apparently, it's not a fault of the projector but how the memory is set. Epson subsequently issued a "recommended procedure" to set memory.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-140.html#post48985465


Probably has to do with fine adjustments or something.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

robc1976 said:


> Very curious as to what lens preset everyone uses.
> 
> I think 4 looks best on games but strains my eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Do you mean the image enhancment?

I keep it off when watching movies on bluray or AppleTV... I have used it occasionally on Preset 1 or 2 when watching DVDs or low quality broadcasts.

I don't game, so haven't used it there.


----------



## robc1976

Uppsalaing said:


> Do you mean the image enhancment?
> 
> I keep it off when watching movies on bluray or AppleTV... I have used it occasionally on Preset 1 or 2 when watching DVDs or low quality broadcasts.
> 
> I don't game, so haven't used it there.


Not image enhancements, its under the "image inhancement" tab called image presets.

I was just curious if people thought it hurt image or inhanced it. I use 2-3 on 4K or Blu-ray and 3 on games but believe on regular blueray it can hurt image but I could be wrong.

I believe most focus the image with presets in place but today I turned off image presets...then focused image....then put image preset on and it made a big difference. Way better than focusing the image with presets on for some reason

I like to tweak things to much I guess lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## kbarnes701

robc1976 said:


> My 1st & 2nd unit did this perfectly. My 3rd current unit I.have to readjust 1/2" to 3/4" and 1/2" on top. Never goes back exactly how I saved it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


This was a known issue. Epson commented on it and said you had to be sure to make at least 10 'adjustments' in each direction, even if you only needed three clicks. So what you would do if you needed, say, 3 clicks up was to go 8 clicks up and then 5 clicks back. To be on the safe side I always go at least 10 clicks away from where I want to end up and then go back the required number until it is spot on. This totally solved the issue for me.


----------



## robc1976

kbarnes701 said:


> This was a known issue. Epson commented on it and said you had to be sure to make at least 10 'adjustments' in each direction, even if you only needed three clicks. So what you would do if you needed, say, 3 clicks up was to go 8 clicks up and then 5 clicks back. To be on the safe side I always go at least 10 clicks away from where I want to end up and then go back the required number until it is spot on. This totally solved the issue for me.


That is invauable info and should be stickied, thank you

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## kbarnes701

robc1976 said:


> That is invauable info and should be stickied, thank you
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


You are more than welcome and I hope it works for you.


----------



## nwbearcat21

bigmixx said:


> Should be fine. You might have to mount the screen a little higher up on the wall depending on your throw distance but you shouldn't have a problem.


I am at just over 11 feet throw distance and will be doing either 100 or 106. So that should be fine with the height?


----------



## bigmixx

nwbearcat21 said:


> I am at just over 11 feet throw distance and will be doing either 100 or 106. So that should be fine with the height?


Yes you'll be fine. A friend of mine is throwing at about 12 feet to a 100 and is offset to the right and it's no issue at all but his screen is close to the ceiling. The only thing you need to consider is where you want to mount the screen. If you prefer it lower to the floor then you might run into a problem so factor that in.


----------



## nwbearcat21

If needed I have also been looking at one with a 3 inch pipe that would make it a bit lower if you all think that would be a better option?


----------



## bigmixx

nwbearcat21 said:


> If needed I have also been looking at one with a 3 inch pipe that would make it a bit lower if you all think that would be a better option?


It couldn't hurt. More flexibility with it a little lower from the ceiling but if you really want the low profile look give a shot first. Like I said, worst case scenario you'll have to move your screen up closer to the ceiling.


----------



## nwbearcat21

Ok great! I plugged it in last night just setting it on the couch with no screen or sound and loved the picture just straight out of the box! Will be even better once I get ti all dialed in and have my screen!


----------



## swyda038

*Firmware*

I am still operating under the 1.09 firmware and was wondering whether it is worth it to upgrade to the latest firmware 1.11 and whether it will screw up the Harpervision and other UHD settings posted on this forum which will require a re-calibration? Does it result it much better image quality then before? Does Harpervision look better with the updated firmware? 

Thanks for everyone's input!


----------



## migsta

swyda038 said:


> I am still operating under the 1.09 firmware and was wondering whether it is worth it to upgrade to the latest firmware 1.11 and whether it will screw up the Harpervision and other UHD settings posted on this forum which will require a re-calibration? Does it result it much better image quality then before? Does Harpervision look better with the updated firmware?
> 
> Thanks for everyone's input!


I would update,

https://www.highdefdigest.com/news/...irmware-update-for-supported-projectors/40542


----------



## WynsWrld98

kbarnes701 said:


> This was a known issue. Epson commented on it and said you had to be sure to make at least 10 'adjustments' in each direction, even if you only needed three clicks. So what you would do if you needed, say, 3 clicks up was to go 8 clicks up and then 5 clicks back. To be on the safe side I always go at least 10 clicks away from where I want to end up and then go back the required number until it is spot on. This totally solved the issue for me.


I wonder if competing JVC projectors with lens memory work the same way, anyone know?


----------



## robc1976

kbarnes701 said:


> You are more than welcome and I hope it works for you.


Just to get this straight

1. If I have picture where I want I could move 5 clicks forward add 5 clicks back and hit save and I am all good? Or is it 10 clicks forward and 10 clicks back? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## kbarnes701

robc1976 said:


> Just to get this straight
> 
> 1. If I have picture where I want I could move 5 clicks forward add 5 clicks back and hit save and I am all good? Or is it 10 clicks forward and 10 clicks back?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I think the former is correct but admit that I use the latter 'to be on the safe side'.


----------



## robc1976

kbarnes701 said:


> I think the former is correct but admit that I use the latter 'to be on the safe side'.


Lol! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## kbarnes701

robc1976 said:


> Lol!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


 Well, it only takes a few seconds to make 10 clicks. And it has always worked for me and my AR returns to exactly where it should be each time I swap ARs.


----------



## mik_82

Hello all,

Just purchased a new 5040ub and looking for some tips/recommendations on where to mount the projector. I have a 11x6 room and looking to buy a 100'/110' screen with the first row of seating at 11ft and 2nd row at the end around 16ft. What would be a good recommended distance to project a 100' image? At 12ft, is 100' image too big for general viewing?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Uppsalaing

mik_82 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Just purchased a new 5040ub and looking for some tips/recommendations on where to mount the projector. I have a 11x6 room and looking to buy a 100'/110' screen with the first row of seating at 11ft and 2nd row at the end around 16ft. What would be a good recommended distance to project a 100' image? At 12ft, is 100' image too big for general viewing?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


If you can wait to test it out in your room before mounting it perrmanantly, or buying a screen, that is the best way to know what you really want...

Others can give you technical advice, but allowing for the opportunity to test things out can be valuable...


----------



## mik_82

Uppsalaing said:


> If you can wait to test it out in your room before mounting it perrmanantly, or buying a screen, that is the best way to know what you really want...
> 
> Others can give you technical advice, but allowing for the opportunity to test things out can be valuable...


Yes, that's what I plan to do tonight but I have never used a projector before so thought i'd get some basic advice. After reading on the forums, I painted my front wall matt black to help with the image. Looking forward to testing the projector!.


----------



## Mr.G

mik_82 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Just purchased a new 5040ub and looking for some tips/recommendations on where to mount the projector. I have a 11x6 room and looking to buy a 100'/110' screen with the first row of seating at 11ft and 2nd row at the end around 16ft. What would be a good recommended distance to project a 100' image? At 12ft, is 100' image too big for general viewing?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Here is the CarltonBale chart which is often used as a rule of thumb, not that it is favored by all or adhered to, it just gives you a sense of scale.


----------



## bigmixx

mik_82 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Just purchased a new 5040ub and looking for some tips/recommendations on where to mount the projector. I have a 11x6 room and looking to buy a 100'/110' screen with the first row of seating at 11ft and 2nd row at the end around 16ft. What would be a good recommended distance to project a 100' image? At 12ft, is 100' image too big for general viewing?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I have a 14x18 room and my 1st row is viewing distance is a tad less than 12 feet. I'm projecting a 110'' image using a 5030ub and I could stand to go bigger. So, I say that to say I don't think 100" image will be too big at 12ft.


----------



## mik_82

Mr.G said:


> Here is the CarltonBale chart which is often used as a rule of thumb, not that it is favored by all or adhered to, it just gives you a sense of scale.


Thanks, very helpful information.


----------



## mik_82

bigmixx said:


> I have a 14x18 room and my 1st row is viewing distance is a tad less than 12 feet. I'm projecting a 110'' image using a 5030ub and I could stand to go bigger. So, I say that to say I don't think 100" image will be too big at 12ft.


Excellent, just what I was looking for. Will try tonight and decide what screen to order. Thanks!


----------



## ayrton

mik_82 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Just purchased a new 5040ub and looking for some tips/recommendations on where to mount the projector. I have a *11x6 room* and looking to buy a 100'/110' screen with the first row of seating at *11ft and 2nd row at the end around 16ft*. What would be a good recommended distance to project a 100' image? At 12ft, is 100' image too big for general viewing?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Don't fully understand your question. But I am viewing my 120" screen @ 12' straight on and it looks great..


----------



## mik_82

ayrton said:


> Don't fully understand your question. But I am viewing my 120" screen @ 12' straight on and it looks great..


Sorry, meant to ask if a 100' image will be too big and in your face at 11ft viewing distance.


----------



## LumensLover

mik_82 said:


> Sorry, meant to ask if a 100' image will be too big and in your face at 11ft viewing distance.


No.


----------



## Azekecse

mik_82 said:


> Sorry, meant to ask if a 100' image will be too big and in your face at 11ft viewing distance.


^^^ I concur with Lumens Lover. I have a 120" Curved screen viewing at 11'8", looks great...Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## mik_82

Azekecse said:


> ^^^ I concur with Lumens Lover. I have a 120" Curved screen viewing at 11'8", looks great...Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Great, thanks for the confirmation.


----------



## kbarnes701

mik_82 said:


> Sorry, meant to ask if a 100' image will be too big and in your face at 11ft viewing distance.


No.

For me the ideal is a 1:1 ratio so if a 2.39:1 screen is 100 inches wide, then the ideal viewing distance would be 100 inches from it. 

I assume you mean the screen is 100 inches wide and not 'diagonal' (the way TVs are measured). If you did mean diagonal, then the width would be 87 inches so the ideal seating distance would be 87 inches.

If you are sitting 11 feet away (132 inches) then I recommend a screen (2.39:1) 132 inches wide.

But it's a personal decision - there is no right or wrong. Some like to sit on the back row of a cinema, some on the front row and some in the center.


----------



## mik_82

kbarnes701 said:


> No.
> 
> For me the ideal is a 1:1 ratio so if a 2.39:1 screen is 100 inches wide, then the ideal viewing distance would be 100 inches from it.
> 
> I assume you mean the screen is 100 inches wide and not 'diagonal' (the way TVs are measured). If you did mean diagonal, then the width would be 87 inches so the ideal seating distance would be 87 inches.
> 
> If you are sitting 11 feet away (132 inches) then I recommend a screen (2.39:1) 132 inches wide.
> 
> But it's a personal decision - there is no right or wrong. Some like to sit on the back row of a cinema, some on the front row and some in the center.


Interesting, I was looking at 100' diagonal so given the calculations you provided it should be doable. Thanks.


----------



## Tristan944

I'd like to check the Focus of my projector to make sure it's focused correctly. Is there an image used to help calibrate the focus? Any advise?


----------



## robc1976

Tristan944 said:


> I'd like to check the Focus of my projector to make sure it's focused correctly. Is there an image used to help calibrate the focus? Any advise?


I use text on xbox screen with image preset off. You can literally dial in the text perfectly by looking at it closely. I have found this to be the best. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

mik_82 said:


> Interesting, I was looking at 100' diagonal so given the calculations you provided it should be doable. Thanks.


I have a 153" screen and 16 ft away add display 2.40:1 easily

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

kbarnes701 said:


> Well, it only takes a few seconds to make 10 clicks. And it has always worked for me and my AR returns to exactly where it should be each time I swap ARs.


I am doing it your way 100%

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## kbarnes701

robc1976 said:


> I am doing it your way 100%
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


LOL. Us OCD AV enthusiasts need to stick together


----------



## kbarnes701

Tristan944 said:


> I'd like to check the Focus of my projector to make sure it's focused correctly. Is there an image used to help calibrate the focus? Any advise?


I use the alignment grid built into the PJ. Also the S&M etc setup discs have a focus screen in their menus. The text on the PJ menus isn't bad either.


----------



## Tristan944

Can someone provide a link to the best image settings?


----------



## cchrono

Has anybody been able to purchase a bulb from Epson directly? They have been unavailable on their website. Seems strange since this is such a popular model


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## ayrton

kbarnes701 said:


> I use the alignment grid built into the PJ. Also the S&M etc setup discs have a focus screen in their menus. The text on the PJ menus isn't bad either.


Ditto! and you can align at the same screen...


----------



## robc1976

kbarnes701 said:


> LOL. Us OCD AV enthusiasts need to stick together


Yes! I have spent hours up on hours tweaking harpervision and it was worth it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

*Random horizontal glitches*

So I've been experiencing the most oddest issue. 
This seems to happen mostly (if not only) on ANY and all Blu-Ray and 3D BR when using my XBOX One X.

It happens every 10-20 seconds or so. I get these random horizontal lines that glitch for a second or so. The only thing that helps for a few minutes is disconnecting the Wireless UBE and then plugging it back in, but then it happens again.

It only happens for a VERY small % of the screen, maybe a few lines sporadically from left to right. 

I thought maybe it was my new Denon X6400H receiver settings?
but it only happens on Blu Ray disc, not on downloaded games or watching Directv. At first I thought it was a sync issue, but I am sure you guys know, when it comes to sycn on the wireless transmitter, the screen goes COMPLETELY blank for about 4-10 seconds and that only happens when switching video input/output on the receiver, or disc, etc. In this case, the movie is still playing, just with these random Horizontal glitches several times a minute.

This is driving me insane. I've had the 5040Ube right when it came out in late 2016 and this just started a month ago. 

Has anyone experienced this issue or know of any trouble shooting steps?


Just to give you an idea, I'm attaching a random pic from the net, obviously my issue is NO WHERE this extreme (the pic shows %100 of the screen with the horizontal glitches, where as my issue is maybe just a few lines/%2-5 of my screen)


----------



## murphy4040

*DirecTV 4K not sticky*

I just got this projector and so far, so good. The only 4K input I have at the moment is DTV. Each time I time I turn on my system (DTV -> Denon AVR -> Epson) and go to any 4K channel I get a message that my TV does not support 4K and will display the content in 1080P mode. I then have to go into the DTV settings and add 4K back as an option, which it accepts and then everything works fine. 

One thought: the 25ft HDMI cable from the AVR to the projector is probably 7-8 years old. Could that contribute here? I've read whether or not the cable works is pretty binary: either it works, or it doesn't, and you only need to upgrade to a newer cable if it doesn't work; ie., you don't get any image. But I do get an image... Any other thoughts? Is there another thread/forum that I should post in? Thanks!


----------



## murphy4040

murphy4040 said:


> I just got this projector and so far, so good. The only 4K input I have at the moment is DTV. Each time I time I turn on my system (DTV -> Denon AVR -> Epson) and go to any 4K channel I get a message that my TV does not support 4K and will display the content in 1080P mode. I then have to go into the DTV settings and add 4K back as an option, which it accepts and then everything works fine.
> 
> One thought: the 25ft HDMI cable from the AVR to the projector is probably 7-8 years old. Could that contribute here? I've read whether or not the cable works is pretty binary: either it works, or it doesn't, and you only need to upgrade to a newer cable if it doesn't work; ie., you don't get any image. But I do get an image... Any other thoughts? Is there another thread/forum that I should post in? Thanks!


One other thing to add...one of the programs from DTV said in the info that it was 4K HDR. It came across as 4K, but the info on the projector said SDR. Not sure if this is just early support from DTV, or if there are setup steps I'm missing....


----------



## Tristan944

After focusing, does the focus position have to be saved, similar to the zoom and position settings have to be saved? Or does the projector just leave the focus where you set it?


----------



## njbrodeur87

Has someone here compared a xbox one X or Ps4 Pro using this projector with linker in 4k compared to using a true samsung 4k tv for image quality? Is it close to being the same were you cant notice or is their a giant difference in quality? Trying to decide if i should buy a second console to put on the samsung tv when i want to game in true 4k if the difference is big enough


----------



## irokez85

Hi guys!

I have question regarding ps4 pro connection - I know that to have 4k hdr 8bit I need hd fury linker/vertex but is it really worth it?
It looks better than for example 1080p hdr from ps4 pro with 4k epson upscaling?

Vertex is 300bucks just asking...


----------



## Mr.G

cchrono said:


> Has anybody been able to purchase a bulb from Epson directly? They have been unavailable on their website. Seems strange since this is such a popular model


For some reason Epson decided (last year?) that replacement lamp purchases is best left to third party sellers. You can write them to complain.


----------



## Uppsalaing

Mr.G said:


> For some reason Epson decided (last year?) that replacement lamp purchases is best left to third party sellers. You can write them to complain.


Interesting. I'm going to ask my Epson dealer to order one for me to have as a spare, and I'll see how I get on.

I had to order the projector specifically when I bought it as these model projectors aren't even stocked in my city...


----------



## LumensLover

Mr.G said:


> For some reason Epson decided (last year?) that replacement lamp purchases is best left to third party sellers. You can write them to complain.


Terrible.


----------



## shogunprophet

So I'm currently leaning heavily towards picking up a 5040ub. I've got a pretty massive great room with a 9ft ceiling over hang to mount the projector which is 24 feet from the screen wall. Playing with the calculator it looks like this would work fine with this projector and give me some great screen options. Figured I'd get the projector, mount it, project on wall and then figure out what screen to buy. Anyone see any issues with using the 5040 for a 24 foot throw?


----------



## ClemsonJeeper

Anyone else having issues with their Shield TV and the Epson 5040UB?

It used to work fine (4K, Netflix 4K streaming, etc etc) but I believe I took a bunch of updates and now the Shield TV only has options for 720p (!!) when connected to the 5040UB. Nothing else has changed.

I hooked it directly to the projector, same thing. I ended up hooking it to a 1080p TV just to rule out the Shield TV being the problem but it allowed me to choose 1080p just fine.

So it looks like some incompatibility perhaps with the Shield TV and the Epson 5040UB.

FWIW, I'm running a Shield TV 2015 @ software 6.3 version.


----------



## Deftec

shogunprophet said:


> So I'm currently leaning heavily towards picking up a 5040ub. I've got a pretty massive great room with a 9ft ceiling over hang to mount the projector which is 24 feet from the screen wall. Playing with the calculator it looks like this would work fine with this projector and give me some great screen options. Figured I'd get the projector, mount it, project on wall and then figure out what screen to buy. Anyone see any issues with using the 5040 for a 24 foot throw?


My pj is mounted on the wall 24' away from the 196" diagonal screen with no issues, you should be good. Is your great room light controlled?


----------



## jwhn

ClemsonJeeper said:


> Anyone else having issues with their Shield TV and the Epson 5040UB?
> 
> It used to work fine (4K, Netflix 4K streaming, etc etc) but I believe I took a bunch of updates and now the Shield TV only has options for 720p (!!) when connected to the 5040UB. Nothing else has changed.
> 
> I hooked it directly to the projector, same thing. I ended up hooking it to a 1080p TV just to rule out the Shield TV being the problem but it allowed me to choose 1080p just fine.
> 
> So it looks like some incompatibility perhaps with the Shield TV and the Epson 5040UB.
> 
> FWIW, I'm running a Shield TV 2015 @ software 6.3 version.


No, I don't have any of these issues and am also running the latest software. Works great. Are you using HDM1 port 1 on the 5040UB? Maybe try a different cable?


----------



## ClemsonJeeper

jwhn said:


> No, I don't have any of these issues and am also running the latest software. Works great. Are you using HDM1 port 1 on the 5040UB? Maybe try a different cable?


Turned out it was actually a hardware failure on my Shield TV. Looks like they are going to replace it though even though it was out of warranty. 👍


----------



## dholmes54

Deftec said:


> My pj is mounted on the wall 24' away from the 196" diagonal screen with no issues, you should be good. Is your great room light controlled?


196 inch screen! You must have a giant ht! you need to post pics please.


----------



## nathan

So I pulled the trigger on the 7th due to the price reduction. BB cancelled my order on the 9th due to something about billing which wasn't true. I think it was because they dropped a $100 gift card thingy in the cart and it was a mistake and they wanted it back. Reordered that same day. 2 days before arrival it still hadn't shipped so I contact chat support (who likely know nothing in reality) and they assure me everything is fine. 

This morning I get a delayed shipping email. Delayed for an additional MONTH. This despite the fact that their website still says that you can get it in a couple of days if you are ordering now. I could have had this a week ago from a certain other 'prime' retailer. Really annoyed. Really didn't want to go the prime route, but I guess I will take a chance.


----------



## inspector

murphy4040 said:


> I just got this projector and so far, so good. The only 4K input I have at the moment is DTV. Each time I time I turn on my system (DTV -> Denon AVR -> Epson) and go to any 4K channel I get a message that my TV does not support 4K and will display the content in 1080P mode. I then have to go into the DTV settings and add 4K back as an option, which it accepts and then everything works fine.
> 
> One thought: the 25ft HDMI cable from the AVR to the projector is probably 7-8 years old. Could that contribute here? I've read whether or not the cable works is pretty binary: either it works, or it doesn't, and you only need to upgrade to a newer cable if it doesn't work; ie., you don't get any image. But I do get an image... Any other thoughtshttps://www.monoprice.com/product?
> 
> 
> I use 45' of Monoprice Cabernet cable https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12735
> 
> 
> that some say doesn't handle HDR but it does for me, but doesn't say HDR in the description. This cable does say HDR in it's description but only to 25'.
> 
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024021&p_id=21511&seq=1&format=2


----------



## drhankz

nathan said:


> So I pulled the trigger on the 7th due to the price reduction. BB cancelled my order on the 9th due to something about billing which wasn't true. I think it was because they dropped a $100 gift card thingy in the cart and it was a mistake and they wanted it back. Reordered that same day. 2 days before arrival it still hadn't shipped so I contact chat support (who likely know nothing in reality) and they assure me everything is fine.
> 
> This morning I get a delayed shipping email. Delayed for an additional MONTH. This despite the fact that their website still says that you can get it in a couple of days if you are ordering now. I could have had this a week ago from a certain other 'prime' retailer. Really annoyed. Really didn't want to go the prime route, but I guess I will take a chance.


Have you checked with BUYING one from the AVSForum - That is
where I have always made my purchases and they prices are GREAT.


----------



## nathan

drhankz said:


> Have you checked with BUYING one from the AVSForum - That is
> where I have always made my purchases and they prices are GREAT.


I have browsed in there before, but not seriously or recently. Soooo, I go over there and there are other decent PJs that I wouldn't have considered except at the prices in the classifieds. Ack! 

Now you've sent me back down the rabbit hole, brother. If I don't have a PJ on the ceiling by next weekend I'm holding you responsible.  But, seriously, thanks for reminding me to check.


----------



## drhankz

nathan said:


> I have browsed in there before, but not seriously or recently. Soooo, I go over there and there are other decent PJs that I wouldn't have considered except at the prices in the classifieds. Ack!
> 
> Now you've sent me back down the rabbit hole, brother. If I don't have a PJ on the ceiling by next weekend I'm holding you responsible.  But, seriously, thanks for reminding me to check.


I was not suggesting their used classified - I was suggesting
they sell brand new brands from most manufacturers. 

You have to call the AVSForum and talk to a sales person.


----------



## nathan

drhankz said:


> I was not suggesting their used classified - I was suggesting
> they sell brand new brands from most manufacturers.
> 
> You have to call the AVSForum and talk to a sales person.


Sorry, that makes more sense. I saw too many things on the classifieds where the user created the account just to sell something. That's no better that ebay. There's some folks have been on here for years and that I might have been comfortable with.

I had only like 30 minutes to get the Saturday shipping so I pulled the trigger elsewhere. Paid the extra since it had to be signed for anyway so I may as well be tomorrow while I'm home. Wish me luck.


----------



## Dominic Chan

drhankz said:


> You have to call the AVSForum and talk to a sales person.


You may be thinking of AVS (AV Science). They are _not_ affiliated with AVSForum.


----------



## Mr.G

murphy4040 said:


> I just got this projector and so far, so good. The only 4K input I have at the moment is DTV. Each time I time I turn on my system (DTV -> Denon AVR -> Epson) and go to any 4K channel I get a message that my TV does not support 4K and will display the content in 1080P mode. I then have to go into the DTV settings and add 4K back as an option, which it accepts and then everything works fine.
> 
> One thought: the 25ft HDMI cable from the AVR to the projector is probably 7-8 years old. Could that contribute here? I've read whether or not the cable works is pretty binary: either it works, or it doesn't, and you only need to upgrade to a newer cable if it doesn't work; ie., you don't get any image. But I do get an image... Any other thoughts https://www.monoprice.com/product?
> 
> I use 45' of Monoprice Cabernet cable https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12735
> 
> that some say doesn't handle HDR but it does for me, but doesn't say HDR in the description. This cable does say HDR in it's description but only to 25'.
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024021&p_id=21511&seq=1&format=2


I've got a quite old 40 foot high speed HDMI cable working with my Epson Home Cinema 4000 and have had no problem with 4K streaming or 4K blu-rays using my Sony X800 player. I suspect your problems stem from your DTV unit not holding the 4K setting after the projector is turned off - loses the handshake.


----------



## gnolivos

Today I bought an Apple 4K tv. The native movies app allows to rent 4K from iTunes. And, as soon as I configured the appleTv to NOT transmit hdr, BOOM! Spectacular 4K image. Ferdinand looked ridiculous.


----------



## LumensLover

gnolivos said:


> Today I bought an Apple 4K tv. The native movies app allows to rent 4K from iTunes. And, as soon as I configured the appleTv to NOT transmit hdr, BOOM! Spectacular 4K image. Ferdinand looked ridiculous.


Congratulations. I bet it looks great.


----------



## Uppsalaing

gnolivos said:


> Today I bought an Apple 4K tv. The native movies app allows to rent 4K from iTunes. And, as soon as I configured the appleTv to NOT transmit hdr, BOOM! Spectacular 4K image. Ferdinand looked ridiculous.


Glad you're enjoying it... I use it a lot for rentals... Looks great on the Epson


----------



## gnolivos

Uppsalaing said:


> Glad you're enjoying it... I use it a lot for rentals... Looks great on the Epson




Yes but as always, you really MUST disable HDR on the player. In this case in the appleTv. HDR looks like crap and looses contrast pop and color.


----------



## rustolemite

Dumb question about the fan, I would like to use High mode but it's too loud so was wondering have anybody looked at replacing the fan with a different one like a PC case fan which may be much better quality and quieter?


----------



## LumensLover

rustolemite said:


> Dumb question about the fan, I would like to use High mode but it's too loud so was wondering have anybody looked at replacing the fan with a different one like a PC case fan which may be much better quality and quieter?


With as many potential issues as his projector has, I would not try doing a fan replacement with this projector. You run the risk of the projector overheating and possibly voiding the warranty which is much needed with this unit.


----------



## Valleyboy

Does anyone have any good SDR settings for Bright Cinema? I want to dial in something good for outdoor movie nights where I'll be playing BluRay movies, not UHD. Thank you in advance, it's always enjoyable reading this thread.


----------



## jwhn

rustolemite said:


> Dumb question about the fan, I would like to use High mode but it's too loud so was wondering have anybody looked at replacing the fan with a different one like a PC case fan which may be much better quality and quieter?



Have you tried watching an entire movie on high fan mode? I wonder if many are turning on high fan mode and immediately determining it is too loud and thus never watching a full movie. In my experience the fan is loud for the first 5 minutes or so and then it will quiet down. After that it does kick in from time to time as well. But it doesn't run at the initial level the whole time. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

gnolivos said:


> Yes but as always, you really MUST disable HDR on the player. In this case in the appleTv. HDR looks like crap and looses contrast pop and color.



If you calibrate the projector, HDR on the Apple TV looks great - even better than SDR. It does take quite a bit of work to calibrate HDR, however.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Mr.G said:


> Here is the CarltonBale chart which is often used as a rule of thumb, not that it is favored by all or adhered to, it just gives you a sense of scale.


Based on this scale my 100” screen/12’ viewing position it’s borderline whether I would notice much of an improvement from 4K.


----------



## old corps

I've been paranoid about the power supply issues ever since I started seeing them reported here. Something tells me mine is on the way out. Mine started doing the high fan thingee on start up about a month ago-hadn't done this previously. Then last night it failed to power on after what seemed like a longer than usual time of blowing on high. When I got up to yank the power cord I noticed a red light flashing and I was sure that was the end. To my surprise it did power up & behave normally after plugging it back in. Just wondering if anyone that suffered the power supply failure had this happen before it went. You know, surely Epson must know what serial numbers have the bad parts in them. They should step up and recall those units!


Ed


For whatever it's worth mine is about 4 months old and has around 225 hours on it.


----------



## Azekecse

jwhn said:


> If you calibrate the projector, HDR on the Apple TV looks great - even better than SDR. It does take quite a bit of work to calibrate HDR, however.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree ^^^, 4K HDR looks great on my Epson 6040UB with f/w 1.11, and tweaking Harpervision, with the ATV4K. I do have a HDFury Linker in between my Marantz SR7011 and Epson.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## gnolivos

jwhn said:


> If you calibrate the projector, HDR on the Apple TV looks great - even better than SDR. It does take quite a bit of work to calibrate HDR, however.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I can’t imagine it looking better than what I see on SDR but please share settings or point me to a link/thread? I’d like to try it out. HDR looks terrible to me compared to sdr no matter the player or source. I guess lots of tweaking may be needed to compensate.


----------



## jwhn

gnolivos said:


> I can’t imagine it looking better than what I see on SDR but please share settings or point me to a link/thread? I’d like to try it out. HDR looks terrible to me compared to sdr no matter the player or source. I guess lots of tweaking may be needed to compensate.



There is a ton of info in this thread on HDR settings. I know it's a long thread but a search will help you find what you need. I did my own calibration with a meter and there is a separate thread for that. But I would start by trying some of the settings in this thread. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bombertodd

Can some one link the page to Epson firmware updates? I can't seem to find it on Epson's website....


----------



## Dominic Chan

bombertodd said:


> Can some one link the page to Epson firmware updates? I can't seem to find it on Epson's website....


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## bombertodd

Dominic Chan said:


> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


Thank you! I spent about 30 minutes searching Google and Epson's website with no luck. You think they would have a link on the product page or the support page.


----------



## NetViper

Azekecse said:


> I agree ^^^, 4K HDR looks great on my Epson 6040UB with f/w 1.11, and tweaking Harpervision, with the ATV4K. I do have a HDFury Linker in between my Marantz SR7011 and Epson.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


In that set up is th linker doing anything? I thought it was mainly for gaming.


----------



## Azekecse

NetViper said:


> In that set up is th linker doing anything? I thought it was mainly for gaming.


That is the originally intent for gaming...However, I have all my peripherals synced finally, so I don't want to change just for testing. So to answer your question I'm not sure...It looks good to me when I change the Epson video pre-config memory to match the appropriate peripheral setting. YMMV of course.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## seplant

NetViper said:


> In that set up is the linker doing anything? I thought it was mainly for gaming.


The Linker in my setup allows me to get 4K HDR BT.2020 from Netflix and YouTube using a Roku Premiere +. There are several 4K HDR videos on YouTube that are used for demos on OLEDs. They look insane on this projector once HDR is dialed in.


----------



## jwhn

Luminated67 said:


> Based on this scale my 100” screen/12’ viewing position it’s borderline whether I would notice much of an improvement from 4K.


I agree with you. Also keep in mind that the 5040UB uses e-Shift. This chart does not account for that. I really struggle to see the difference between HD and 4K at 14 feet on my 120" screen.


----------



## avtvhdbass

jwhn said:


> I agree with you. Also keep in mind that the 5040UB uses e-Shift. This chart does not account for that. I really struggle to see the difference between HD and 4K at 14 feet on my 120" screen.


My 6040UB projector has failed with power supply issues, totally dead when powered on. 
This is the second unit to fail with the same issue as the first one. Both units failed with less than 200 lamp hours!!. 

Hope I will be third time lucky!. Fingers crossed as I wait for an another RMA replacement. 

I need to get this projector professionally calibrated looks like I will have to wait out on this


----------



## avtvhdbass

Thank you.


----------



## avtvhdbass

old corps said:


> I've been paranoid about the power supply issues ever since I started seeing them reported here. Something tells me mine is on the way out. Mine started doing the high fan thingee on start up about a month ago-hadn't done this previously. Then last night it failed to power on after what seemed like a longer than usual time of blowing on high. When I got up to yank the power cord I noticed a red light flashing and I was sure that was the end. To my surprise it did power up & behave normally after plugging it back in. Just wondering if anyone that suffered the power supply failure had this happen before it went. You know, surely Epson must know what serial numbers have the bad parts in them. They should step up and recall those units!
> 
> 
> Ed
> 
> 
> For whatever it's worth mine is about 4 months old and has around 225 hours on it.


Hope for the best. I did receive an RMA unit from Epson the serial number at the end was marked with a *.* (Bold Dot) using a permanent INK marker whereas the initial projector had none.


----------



## epetti

I've ordered my 5040UB so started to read up on this thread. I had a projector distance question. My seating distance from screen will be 14', and my room length is 23'. I'm aiming for about a 127" width constant height 2.35 screen and currently leaning toward the Epson 5040UB projector. Given these specs, it looks like the Epson could be installed anywhere from about 15' to 20' from the screen.

Is there any recommendation of whether it's better to install closer or farther? I'm guessing closer gives brighter image, but also any fan noise will be more apparent, especially if it's essentially right over my head. So farther will be quieter but dimmer. Any other pros or cons to weigh when considering the install distance?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## tasoik

ht guy said:


> Part of the issue may be that there are multiple versions here. I will try to delete the older ones and point to this post.
> 
> Here is the latest version (the last one incorrectly indicated oledurt's v.2 Bright Cinema setting used 50 for brightness instead of 40.)
> 
> Most importantly, a big shout out and thank you to oledurt, Dave Harper and all the other users who have posted their settings here.


Is there any update on these settings or is it final?


----------



## Luminated67

jwhn said:


> I agree with you. Also keep in mind that the 5040UB uses e-Shift. This chart does not account for that. I really struggle to see the difference between HD and 4K at 14 feet on my 120" screen.


Maybe true 4K would make a difference but if you are already coming from one of the best HD projectors to one of these entry level DLP e-shift versions it’s almost impossible to notice unless you go right up to the size. It’s odd but on my TV I notice a bigger difference between watching 540p vs 1080p than I do 1080p vs 4K.

It's possible I just haven't seen the right 4K content to fully appreciate the difference. :frown:


----------



## Upswright1

seplant said:


> The Linker in my setup allows me to get 4K HDR BT.2020 from Netflix and YouTube using a Roku Premiere +. There are several 4K HDR videos on YouTube that are used for demos on OLEDs. They look insane on this projector once HDR is dialed in.


What setting are u using for Linker with the roku premier ?
I just got one and am curious on how others set theirs up to get hdr 4k!
Thanks in advance!


----------



## megametaman

mase1981 said:


> You can either get the linker directly from the manufacturer: (Taiwan)
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
> 
> Or you can get it from monoprice: (US)
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27330
> 
> [Update 12/11/2017] - Download and use firmware .25 (version 21), use the link below and go to download section.
> Manual, firmware, drivers and software can be found here:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/#tab-tab-download
> 
> You can either use a computer to do all that or buy an additional bluetooth adapter so you wont need a computer for the configuration (its just easier if you dont want to disconnect and move rooms each time, not a must:
> https://www.hdfury.com/product/goblue/
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27329
> 
> Once you get it and put the 19a firmware, here are the config settings you need to do.
> added both from PC and via the Geo Blue.
> if you follow these settings exactly it will work with XB1S and get all greens.
> Honestly, this should be a sticky


Mase1981, you sly dog. Thanks a lot for these settings. I now have all green checks on my Xbox One S! I tried for about an hour messing with all the settings on the Linker to do it all on my own. I was going to ask this forum, but first did some digging and found your post. I tried it and had all green checks in less than 10 minutes! 

This really should be a sticker!


----------



## mase1981

megametaman said:


> Mase1981, you sly dog. Thanks a lot for these settings. I now have all green checks on my Xbox One S! I tried for about an hour messing with all the settings on the Linker to do it all on my own. I was going to ask this forum, but first did some digging and found your post. I tried it and had all green checks in less than 10 minutes!
> 
> This really should be a sticker!


Thats awesome ! im really glad u got it  enjoy !


----------



## SALadder22FF

sddp said:


> So I've been experiencing the most oddest issue.
> This seems to happen mostly (if not only) on ANY and all Blu-Ray and 3D BR when using my XBOX One X.
> 
> It happens every 10-20 seconds or so. I get these random horizontal lines that glitch for a second or so. The only thing that helps for a few minutes is disconnecting the Wireless UBE and then plugging it back in, but then it happens again.
> 
> It only happens for a VERY small % of the screen, maybe a few lines sporadically from left to right.
> 
> I thought maybe it was my new Denon X6400H receiver settings?
> but it only happens on Blu Ray disc, not on downloaded games or watching Directv. At first I thought it was a sync issue, but I am sure you guys know, when it comes to sycn on the wireless transmitter, the screen goes COMPLETELY blank for about 4-10 seconds and that only happens when switching video input/output on the receiver, or disc, etc. In this case, the movie is still playing, just with these random Horizontal glitches several times a minute.
> 
> This is driving me insane. I've had the 5040Ube right when it came out in late 2016 and this just started a month ago.
> 
> Has anyone experienced this issue or know of any trouble shooting steps?
> 
> 
> Just to give you an idea, I'm attaching a random pic from the net, obviously my issue is NO WHERE this extreme (the pic shows %100 of the screen with the horizontal glitches, where as my issue is maybe just a few lines/%2-5 of my screen)


I had the same problem watching movies. I plugged in a HDMI and the issue went away. Very frustrating. 

Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

SALadder22FF said:


> I had the same problem watching movies. I plugged in a HDMI and the issue went away. Very frustrating.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Note8 using Tapatalk


Thanks for the reply.

But I am not understanding, plugged in an HDMI?
I am using HDMI on everything.

This is more than frustrating.. literally


----------



## seplant

Upswright1 said:


> What setting are u using for Linker with the roku premier ?
> I just got one and am curious on how others set theirs up to get hdr 4k!
> Thanks in advance!


I just loaded the latest firmware and then set it to the default custom EDID (HOLD RST button + press INP button 1 time). The Linker has issues working consistently on startup, but once it's working, it really makes a difference!


----------



## Mr.G

sddp said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> But I am not understanding, plugged in an HDMI?
> I am using HDMI on everything.
> 
> This is more than frustrating.. literally


I think what he is saying is that he switched from wireless to wired HDMI. When you consider data rates it can make a difference since Blu-ray can run 36 Mbps and UHD Blu-ray at 108 Mbps. Your DirecTV and games are much less than that.

EDIT: I should add these are the data rates encoded on the Blu-ray discs. Blu-ray players convert these rates to a much higher bandwidth and in the case of UHD discs they are usually around 8.9 Gbps.


----------



## mik_82

What is the recommend throw distance for a 125' 2:35.1 screen?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


----------



## ClemsonJeeper

Has anyone figured out if there are discrete codes for LENS MEMORY 3+? Obviously there are 2 on the controller but wondering if 3+ is supported.

Or is this supported through TCP (which port?) or serial connection (what commands?)

Thanks!


----------



## sddp

Mr.G said:


> I think what he is saying is that he switched from wireless to wired HDMI. When you consider data rates it can make a difference since Blu-ray can run 36 Mbps and UHD Blu-ray at 108 Mbps. Your DirecTV and games are much less than that.
> 
> EDIT: I should add these are the data rates encoded on the Blu-ray discs. Blu-ray players convert these rates to a much higher bandwidth and in the case of UHD discs they are usually around 8.9 Gbps.


DUH! lol, wasn't thinking of that, I was picturing the actual HDMI to the wireless.
Unfortunately I can't, the distance is over 35' and I am using two of the HDMI inputs.

Well it was working flawlessly for over a year, never once had the glitches. However this kinda started around when I upgraded to the new Denon H6400H receiver and it happens WAY more on 3D Blu Rays. So based on what you mentioned, this kinda makes sense, since its happening more so with more data as with 3D.

Is there any other way to resolve this issue?


----------



## Azekecse

mik_82 said:


> What is the recommend throw distance for a 125' 2:35.1 screen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


Epson calculator states 125" Diag: 17'7"...136" Diag: 19.1". Not sure if your measurement is diagonal or width, but I certainly hope you meant inches not feet .

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## avtvhdbass

*Epson Customer Service for projectors.*

Just received another EPSON 6040UB from RMA, hooked up the projector so far no issues found. The only positive thing is that the customer service is very responsive in replacing failed products. 

I am not sure how long my third 6040UB projector will last, only time will tell.


----------



## merkaba

Does anyone know if there is a new/updated settings PDF? The latest one that i've found is from November 2017. I'm wondering what people are using on their HDR 4k movies for settings to get an awesome bright picture?

I'm referring to this post: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352


----------



## mik_82

Azekecse said:


> Epson calculator states 125" Diag: 17'7"...136" Diag: 19.1". Not sure if your measurement is diagonal or width, but I certainly hope you meant inches not feet .
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Sorry, I meant inches. The screen is 127.7 inches diagonal and 122 inches in width and 54.75 in height. The wall height is 9ft.


----------



## FendersRule

Epson's quality control on refurbished projectors is really bad for the RMA process. Sometimes it takes a few tries for them to send you a NEW unit.

I went through 3 8700s until I ended up with a perfect one that has been a solid workhorse for the past 7 years.

First 8700UB: New. It was superb, but it developed a dust blob right in the center after about a year. That really sucked. Once you see it, you cannot un-see it and Epson was contacted. I love horror movies, so you can imagine all the dark scenes that magnify the blob. 

Second 8700UB: Refurbished. Convergence was a step down with some colors being 2-3 pixels off. The visual clarity just didn't look as good. Almost like it was permenatly "a tad" blurry. Took a photo of the convergence and they admitted it didn't meet spec. Sent it back.

Third 8700UB: Refurbished. Convergence was "OK" (not great) but within tolerance. However, every time you turn it on, you'd have to manually focus it. For some reason, it would never retain the focus that it was at when it was last turned off. Super annoying and obviously a big issue there. Sent it back.

Fourth 8700UB: New. Perfect. This has been the work horse.

It didn't take fighting tooth and nail for any of this to happen, but it took them time to finally send me out a new unit and stop with the BS refurbished junk. Great support overall, but I'm wondering if the Care line are still sending customers refurbished units (that are obviously not tested very well at all) as their first line of defense. Make sure you CHECK them thoroughly, especially the convergence.


----------



## Azekecse

mik_82 said:


> Sorry, I meant inches. The screen is 127.7 inches diagonal and 122 inches in width and 54.75 in height. The wall height is 9ft.


No problem Mik_82, most individuals use these distances as baselines, you can move it according to your own taste.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## avtvhdbass

@FendersRule

Thanks for the tips. I will check out what you stated above when time permits.

Epson did send me a refurbished unit when the first one failed. You have summarized clearly about the refurbished units. The refurbished unit Epson sent me earlier did have a dust blob and also few finger prints on the lens which I had ignored it hoping to get it cleaned some time later and then the unit failed with the power supply issue!!!.

(Current) Third unit Epson shipped to me was supposed to be NEW one that's what customer service guy told me. I have no way to verify if its new, It was packaged neatly with a soft plastic material nicely sealed (where as the refurbished projector just had a white plastic bag) and it did have latest firmware by factory.

Good to know you have working projector that has lasted 7 years.


----------



## Nexgen76

merkaba said:


> Does anyone know if there is a new/updated settings PDF? The latest one that i've found is from November 2017. I'm wondering what people are using on their HDR 4k movies for settings to get an awesome bright picture?
> 
> I'm referring to this post: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352



I'm like you I'm waiting also. Last i seen was Oledurts saying that he liked the new firmware & he had something coming few weeks ago, i guess he got busy or something. But i really loved all Oledurts setting so far.


----------



## ClemsonJeeper

Allright well I got no love trying to track down discrete codes for IR (or serial) for loading lens memory 3-8. I previously had macros set up in iRules that actually opened the "load lens memory" menu, scroll down, select it. It seemed hacky and sometimes didn't work properly (IR code missed, etc).

I found that there is an "iProjection" app that Epson supports that does have the ability to directly jump to presets (along with keys for direct functions for a lot of things).

I did a little reverse engineering and packet sniffing and figured out that the "Remote" menus in the iProjection app are actually hosted on the projector itself which is running a web server on port 80. Note this is all assuming you have networking hooked up to your projector and you know the IP.

I was able to come up with the following if you wanted to directly access some functions I found interesting. I use iRule which makes it very easy to add HTTP queries into macros.

The base URL you want to fetch to send a key is: 

http:///cgi-bin/directsend

Note that it does have basic HTTP AUTH enabled and the app must have the credentials hard-coded into it. I was able to sniff the Authorization header though. Since I only have my projector to test on, I don't know if this varies (or is somehow dynamically generated) projector to projector but for all requests you will need to set the following headers:

Authorization: Basic RVBTT05NT0JJTEU6
Referer: http:///cgi-bin/webconf

After that, the commands are as follows:

-------------------------
Main Keys:

POWER: KEY=3B
HDMI1: KEY=4D
HDMI2: KEY=40
PC: KEY=44
VIDEO: KEY=46
USB: KEY=85
LAN: SOURCE=53
MUTE: KEY=3E

-------------------------
Picture Modes:

Dynamic: CMODE=06
Bright Cinema: CMODE=0C
Natural: CMODE=07
Cinema: CMODE=15
B&W Cinema: CMODE=20
Digital Cinema: CMODE=22

-------------------------
Image Settings:

4K "Preset Modes": IMGPRESET=00..05 (00 = Off, 01 = Preset 1, 02 = Preset 2, etc)
Power Consumption: LUMINANCE=00..02 (00 = High, 01 = ECO, 02 = Medium)
Auto Iris: IRIS=00..02 (00 = Off, 01 = Normal, 02 = High)

-------------------------
Preset Memory:

Load Memory Slot 1-10: POPMEM=02%20[01..0A] (01=Slot 1, 02=Slot 2 ... 0A=Slot 10). So, Load slot 8 would be: POPMEM=02%2008
Save Memory Slot 1-10: PUSHMEM= (same as above)

-------------------------

Lens Memory:

Load Memory Slot 1-8: POPLP=01..08 (01 = Slot 1, 02 = Slot 2, etc)
Save Memory Slot 1-8: PUSHLP=01..08 (same as above)

So to sum it all up together, if you wanted to use curl as an example. Once the projector is on you can load lens memory slot 5 by issuing:

$ curl -H 'Authorization: Basic RVBTT05NT0JJTEU6' -H 'Referer: http:///cgi-bin/webconf' 'http:///cgi-bin/directsend?POPLP=05'

Hope this helps you guys!! Glad I can get rid of the crappy macros having to navigate lens memory menus that can be finicky and slow.


----------



## ayrton

^

Got it?


----------



## Mr.G

sddp said:


> DUH! lol, wasn't thinking of that, I was picturing the actual HDMI to the wireless.
> Unfortunately I can't, the distance is over 35' and I am using two of the HDMI inputs.
> 
> Well it was working flawlessly for over a year, never once had the glitches. However this kinda started around when I upgraded to the new Denon H6400H receiver and it happens WAY more on 3D Blu Rays. So based on what you mentioned, this kinda makes sense, since its happening more so with more data as with 3D.
> 
> Is there any other way to resolve this issue?


Can you swap your old receiver back into the chain to see if the problem goes away? Optimally the WirelessHD transmitter needs a straight line of sight as short as possible since it uses the 60 Ghz frequency which is very fast but lacks range and is easily blocked. Do you have new router that uses the 60 Ghz frequency?


----------



## swyda038

*Firmware*

I am still operating under the 1.09 firmware and was wondering whether it is worth it to upgrade to the latest firmware 1.11 and whether it will screw up the Harpervision and other UHD settings posted on this forum which will require a re-calibration? Does it result it much better image quality then before? Does Harpervision look better with the updated firmware? 

Thanks for everyone's input!


----------



## Azekecse

swyda038 said:


> I am still operating under the 1.09 firmware and was wondering whether it is worth it to upgrade to the latest firmware 1.11 and whether it will screw up the Harpervision and other UHD settings posted on this forum which will require a re-calibration? Does it result it much better image quality then before? Does Harpervision look better with the updated firmware?
> 
> Thanks for everyone's input!


FYI. I have the 1.11 f/w and have tried it with Oledurt's settings. I changed a few menu options for customization. The biggest change I made was to change from Bright Cinema to Cinema mode to enable the WCG. On my Oppo 203 the colors looks more natural, movie natural, after a few fine tune adjustments. YMMV of course .

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Upswright1

HD Fury Linker question:
Have had my Fury for a while. Settings are correct, suddenly stopped getting a signal from xbox one s blue ray player. Any help here.
Still plays games in hdr COD wwII etc. If disconnect fury and run xbox one s directly to Epson projector Movie plays fine.
Very Frustrated as I KNOW the linker worked b4 with movies??

Thanks


----------



## Shermstead

Dominic Chan said:


> The standard’s recommended EOTF can be used during custom calibration, as the projector manufacturers cannot tell what the luminance will be.


If one is not concerned with fan noise, electric usage or lamp life, is there any reason NOT to use HIGH Power Consumption?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Shermstead said:


> If one is not concerned with fan noise, electric usage or lamp life, is there any reason NOT to use HIGH Power Consumption?


In theory (at least), any panel degradation will also be accelerated when using high power, due to the higher internal temperature.


----------



## Shermstead

Dominic Chan said:


> In theory (at least), any panel degradation will also be accelerated when using high power, due to the higher internal temperature.


Thanks for your expeditious reply. Are you referring to the LCD Panels? So, there’s no degradation in picture quality. The power consumption modes are mostly about bulb life?


----------



## ayrton

Azekecse said:


> FYI. I have the 1.11 f/w and have tried it with Oledurt's settings. I changed a few menu options for customization. The biggest change I made was to change from Bright Cinema to Cinema mode to enable the WCG. On my Oppo 203 the colors looks more natural, movie natural, after a few fine tune adjustments. YMMV of course .
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Are you using the 203's SDR BT2020 and what lamp output are you using with "Cinema"? If other please inform..

Very happy with mine using the SDR BT2020 And Oledurt's "Bright Cinema"

Thx, ayrton


----------



## roland6465

Sorry if I missed this answer, but I've got a DirecTV upgrade coming up...

Is the 60/5040 able to do HLG HDR? And if not, would it be able to via a future firmware update?


----------



## Azekecse

ayrton said:


> Are you using the 203's SDR BT2020 and what lamp output are you using with "Cinema"? If other please inform..
> 
> Very happy with mine using the SDR BT2020 And Oledurt's "Bright Cinema"
> 
> Thx, ayrton


Since I have updated my Oppo 203 f/w I will need to verify its settings...I am utilizing the Medium lamp settings on the Epson.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## timmyotule

I'm trying to figure out which 4k UHD player to get to go with my new 5040UB. I'm looking for one that has dual HDMI outputs and can stream 24Hz HDR 4k Netflix to the 5040UB.

I was looking at getting a refurb Philips 7501 but it looks like it just does SDR 4k with Netflix and the 5040UB. I may still go this route while I wait for the Panasonic UB420 with tone mapping to get released.

Who has a UHD player that is working to stream UHD HDR Netflix content to their Epson?


----------



## WynsWrld98

roland6465 said:


> Sorry if I missed this answer, but I've got a DirecTV upgrade coming up...
> 
> Is the 60/5040 able to do HLG HDR? And if not, would it be able to via a future firmware update?


I believe the answer is no and no but am curious what programming DirecTV will be offering via HLG?


----------



## ClerkDante

Good evening all. Received my 5040ub today and have a few questions for any that are willing to help. 

My lone source is an AppleTV 4K. The following things are occurring. 

1) 4K HDR at 60 and 50Hz are failing, but activates at 25Hz

2) I’ve played assorted 4K sources (Netflix, Infuse, etc) and it doesn’t look any sharper than my 9 year old Mitsubishi HC6500

3) Mounted relatively flush to the ceiling, with a screen that is as high as she’ll go, it requires massive amounts of keystoning to get a squared up image. 

4) 4K enhancement is greyed out. 

I’m guessing step one is likely new capables?


----------



## Uppsalaing

ClerkDante said:


> Good evening all. Received my 5040ub today and have a few questions for any that are willing to help.
> 
> My lone source is an AppleTV 4K. The following things are occurring.
> 
> 1) 4K HDR at 60 and 50Hz are failing, but activates at 25Hz
> 
> 2) I’ve played assorted 4K sources (Netflix, Infuse, etc) and it doesn’t look any sharper than my 9 year old Mitsubishi HC6500
> 
> 3) Mounted relatively flush to the ceiling, with a screen that is as high as she’ll go, it requires massive amounts of keystoning to get a squared up image.
> 
> 4) 4K enhancement is greyed out.
> 
> I’m guessing step one is likely new capables?


I use the Apple TV 4K with the European version of this projector... It works very well 

1- The projector cannot do 4k HDR at 60hz due to limitations of it's HDMI chipset. It can do 4K HDR at 24hz, which is ideal for movies. It is best to set up your Apple TV to display 4K SDR at 60hz, with Match Range and Match Frame Rate turned on. That way the Apple TV will set SDR/HDR depending on the content and will display everything at it's original frame rate. You'll get smooth menues and all content will be sent at the right settings from the Apple TV. Also, the Apple TV 4K will upscale content to 4K.

2- It should look amazing. The reason it doesn't is probably due to the large amount of keystoning you've had to do. Keystoning reduces picture quality drastically.

3- If you can put the projector on a shelf temporarily or in another position that doesn't require any keystoning you will be able to see what the image should look like. As was said above keystoning reduces image quality.

4- 4K enhancement is turned off when the projector receives a 4K signal, which it is asthe apple TV 4K can upscale 1080p content. This is correct. If you send the projector an HD signal then 4K Enhancement will show as an option, but the Apple TV4K's upscalling is better.

On the projector if you go to Menu, Info, Projector Info than you will see what kind of signal the projector is receiving.


----------



## roland6465

WynsWrld98 said:


> I believe the answer is no and no but am curious what programming DirecTV will be offering via HLG?


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-h...2942174-directv-now-broadcasting-hlg-hdr.html


----------



## ClerkDante

Uppsalaing said:


> 1- The projector cannot do 4k HDR at 60hz due to limitations of it's HDMI chipset. It can do 4K HDR at 24hz, which is ideal for movies. It is best to set up your Apple TV to display 4K SDR at 60hz, with Match Range and Match Frame Rate turned on. That way the Apple TV will set SDR/HDR depending on the content and will display everything at it's original frame rate. You'll get smooth menues and all content will be sent at the right settings from the Apple TV. Also, the Apple TV 4K will upscale


Thanks for the reply. With AppleTV set to 4K SDR, and Match Content on, what do you suggest for HDMI Ouput and Chroma? And just to reiterate, I should just leave “Enable HDR” alone?


----------



## Mr.G

timmyotule said:


> I'm trying to figure out which 4k UHD player to get to go with my new 5040UB. I'm looking for one that has dual HDMI outputs and can stream 24Hz HDR 4k Netflix to the 5040UB.
> 
> I was looking at getting a refurb Philips 7501 but it looks like it just does SDR 4k with Netflix and the 5040UB. I may still go this route while I wait for the Panasonic UB420 with tone mapping to get released.
> 
> Who has a UHD player that is working to stream UHD HDR Netflix content to their Epson?


The Sony X800 UHD Blu-ray player. Although it's capable I don't use it for streaming, the Roku Premiere+ or the Apple TV 4K streamer are generally what I use.


----------



## timmyotule

Mr.G said:


> The Sony X800 UHD Blu-ray player. Although it's capable I don't use it for streaming, the Roku Premiere+ or the Apple TV 4K streamer are generally what I use.


Thanks!

So I'm guessing the Sony X700 will stream in a similar manner as well. It also looks like the Samsung K8500 will do it but it has noise reduction you can't turn off so I'm going to skip it. I've gotten confirmation that the Philips 7501 will only do SDR 4k to the 5040UB.


----------



## jwhn

Mr.G said:


> The Sony X800 UHD Blu-ray player. Although it's capable I don't use it for streaming, the Roku Premiere+ or the Apple TV 4K streamer are generally what I use.


Have you confirmed that the Sony is not upscaling? If you look at the Netflix programming menu it should say both Ultra-HD 4K AND HDR. If it does not then the Sony is upscaling to 4K.


----------



## nwbearcat21

So I have it hooked up and mounted from my 9 foot ceiling with a 3 inch pipe coming from the mount. I love it so far even without adjusting settings or getting my screen up but I do seem to have some keystone going on. It gets smaller on both sides as it goes up. I am attaching a pic to see what you all think. How can I get the picture all square without using keystone adjustment. First time I've hooked up a projector so hopefully it's an easy fix. Thanks!


----------



## Mr.G

jwhn said:


> Have you confirmed that the Sony is not upscaling? If you look at the Netflix programming menu it should say both Ultra-HD 4K AND HDR. If it does not then the Sony is upscaling to 4K.


Instantwatcher lists this title as UltraHD.


----------



## jwhn

Mr.G said:


> Instantwatcher lists this title as UltraHD.


Okay. That is a separate question / issue. Netflix will adjust the signal it sends based on the set up (regardless of what the original content is). Netflix typically requires 60hz to send UHD. There are a a few exceptions. 

The only way to determine what Netflix is actually sending is to pull up any Sony menu that shows the signal SOURCE or to pull up the programming menu on Netflix and look for BOTH UHD and HDR.


----------



## jwhn

Uppsalaing said:


> If you send the projector an HD signal then 4K Enhancement will show as an option, but the Apple TV4K's upscalling is better.


I'm curious how you concluded that the ATV upscaling is better than the Epson's.


----------



## Mr.G

jwhn said:


> Okay. That is a separate question / issue. Netflix will adjust the signal it sends based on the set up (regardless of what the original content is). Netflix typically requires 60hz to send UHD. There are a a few exceptions.
> 
> The only way to determine what Netflix is actually sending is to pull up any Sony menu that shows the signal SOURCE or to pull up the programming menu on Netflix and look for BOTH UHD and HDR.


What you claim is at odds with Sledgehamma's post.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...flix-4k-streams-10-bit-60hz.html#post55613454


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> If you look at the Netflix programming menu it should say both Ultra-HD 4K AND HDR. If it does not then the Sony is upscaling to 4K.


Can you elaborate on this? I use an Amazon Fire TV for streaming and see 4K but not HDR (I think).
I also have Apple TV 4k which works fine, but want to be able to use both.


----------



## Mr.G

nwbearcat21 said:


> So I have it hooked up and mounted from my 9 foot ceiling with a 3 inch pipe coming from the mount. I love it so far even without adjusting settings or getting my screen up but I do seem to have some keystone going on. It gets smaller on both sides as it goes up. I am attaching a pic to see what you all think. How can I get the picture all square without using keystone adjustment. First time I've hooked up a projector so hopefully it's an easy fix. Thanks!


It's pretty simple if you own a small torpedo level. Level the projector front to back and side to side. Square the projector to the screen. Then use the lens shift on the projector to place the image on the screen and of course invert the screen in settings. My projector lens is about the same height as the top of my 120" screen.


----------



## jwhn

Mr.G said:


> What you claim is at odds with Sledgehamma's post.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...flix-4k-streams-10-bit-60hz.html#post55613454


It's not at odds with it at all. I don't think you are understanding my point. You posted a picture of the Epson menu as "proof" that the Sony streams 4K UHD / HDR. But this menu provides no proof at all. The Epson menu will read the same if Netflix is sending 4K or if it is sending 1080p and the Sony upscales. This has been documented and discussed over and over in this thread. 

You have not looked at / verified the signal that Netflix is actually sending to the Sony. What I am suggesting would take you less than 1 minute to check. See the attached picture. If your menu does not look like this, with indicators that Netflix is sending both UHD and HDR, then the Sony is upscaling.


----------



## Mr.G

jwhn said:


> It's not at odds with it at all. I don't think you are understanding my point. You posted a picture of the Epson menu as "proof" that the Sony streams 4K UHD / HDR. But this menu provides no proof at all. The Epson menu will read the same if Netflix is sending 4K or if it is sending 1080p and the Sony upscales. This has been documented and discussed over and over in this thread.
> 
> You have not looked at / verified the signal that Netflix is actually sending to the Sony. What I am suggesting would take you less than 1 minute to check. See the attached picture. If your menu does not look like this, with indicators that Netflix is sending both UHD and HDR, then the Sony is upscaling.


I'll check tonight when I have time. Is this satisfactory?

And Netflix streams at 24Hz, not 60Hz (a few exceptions) as you claimed early on.


----------



## spirithockey79

ayrton said:


> Are you using the 203's SDR BT2020 and what lamp output are you using with "Cinema"? If other please inform..
> 
> 
> 
> Very happy with mine using the SDR BT2020 And Oledurt's "Bright Cinema"
> 
> 
> 
> Thx, ayrton




To get the benefit of bt2020 I thought you had to engage the P3 filter on the Epson, which means using either Cinema or Digital Cinema. I don’t think using Bright Cinema is giving you the full benefit of WCG. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> Can you elaborate on this? I use an Amazon Fire TV for streaming and see 4K but not HDR (I think).
> I also have Apple TV 4k which works fine, but want to be able to use both.


Which version of the FireTV do you have? I have the older one that doesn't do HDR. So in this case, Netflix adjusts what it sends and doesn't send HDR. There is a menu that can be pulled up with the FireTV to show this (can't remember exactly but you push 2 buttons on the remote).

I have the new AppleTV also. This is one device that Netflix will send 4K / HDR to at 24hz. For me it shows up as "Dolby Vision" in the Netflix menu. I've looked into this quite a bit and have concluded that Netflix Dolby Vision is by definition 4K / HDR. You can actually set up the Developer menu in the AppleTV and it will then display all of the input source details. I did this and it also shows that Netflix Dolby Vision is sending 4K and HDR.

The main point in all this is that you have to verify what Netflix sends. It's not consistent across devices and set ups.


----------



## jwhn

Mr.G said:


> I'll check tonight when I have time. Is this satisfactory?
> 
> And Netflix streams at 24Hz, not 60Hz (a few exceptions) as you claimed early on.


Yes, that would be great. 

I am actually curious more than anything because I tested the Sony last May and believe I came to the same conclusion that you did - that is actually does work. But now I am wondering if I may have been confused. So I would appreciate it if you could take a look.


----------



## nwbearcat21

Mr.G said:


> It's pretty simple if you own a small torpedo level. Level the projector front to back and side to side. Square the projector to the screen. Then use the lens shift on the projector to place the image on the screen and of course invert the screen in settings. My projector lens is about the same height as the top of my 120" screen.


Awesome I will do that this weekend. Thank you!


----------



## WynsWrld98

ClerkDante said:


> Good evening all. Received my 5040ub today and have a few questions for any that are willing to help.
> 
> My lone source is an AppleTV 4K. The following things are occurring.
> 
> 1) 4K HDR at 60 and 50Hz are failing, but activates at 25Hz
> 
> 2) I’ve played assorted 4K sources (Netflix, Infuse, etc) and it doesn’t look any sharper than my 9 year old Mitsubishi HC6500
> 
> 3) Mounted relatively flush to the ceiling, with a screen that is as high as she’ll go, it requires massive amounts of keystoning to get a squared up image.
> 
> 4) 4K enhancement is greyed out.
> 
> I’m guessing step one is likely new capables?


Re: #3 use vertical lens shift, NOT KEYSTONE!


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> Which version of the FireTV do you have? I have the older one that doesn't do HDR. So in this case, Netflix adjusts what it sends and doesn't send HDR. There is a menu that can be pulled up with the FireTV to show this (can't remember exactly but you push 2 buttons on the remote).


I have the latest 4k HDR version. It doesn’t provide the kind of control over the video output options as the ATV.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> I have the latest 4k HDR version. It doesn’t provide the kind of control over the video output options as the ATV.



Oh I see. I think the Nvidia Shield is the best Android option. I am running that + ATV that I got free from the DIRECTV now promo. ; ) 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ClerkDante

WynsWrld98 said:


> ClerkDante said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good evening all. Received my 5040ub today and have a few questions for any that are willing to help.
> 
> My lone source is an AppleTV 4K. The following things are occurring.
> 
> 1) 4K HDR at 60 and 50Hz are failing, but activates at 25Hz
> 
> 2) I’ve played assorted 4K sources (Netflix, Infuse, etc) and it doesn’t look any sharper than my 9 year old Mitsubishi HC6500
> 
> 3) Mounted relatively flush to the ceiling, with a screen that is as high as she’ll go, it requires massive amounts of keystoning to get a squared up image.
> 
> 4) 4K enhancement is greyed out.
> 
> I’m guessing step one is likely new capables?
> 
> 
> 
> Re: #3 use vertical lens shift, NOT KEYSTONE!
Click to expand...

Thanks, can you elaborate? I’m not keystoning to get the image on the screen, only to adjust it’s shape once centered. Should I be placing the image on an extreme edge and lens shifting will make the adjustment with less image warp than physical aligning?

Tell me like I’m a four year.


----------



## ayrton

spirithockey79 said:


> To get the benefit of bt2020 I thought you had to engage the P3 filter on the Epson, which means using either Cinema or Digital Cinema. I don’t think using Bright Cinema is giving you the full benefit of WCG.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


You're correct. However, I saw a post where you still get ~70% of the BT 2020 without the filter. Compared to the UHD HDR TV I also have in the loop, it looks pretty good..


----------



## Uppsalaing

jwhn said:


> I'm curious how you concluded that the ATV upscaling is better than the Epson's.


This is my subjective opinion from watching the two settings on upscaled content. The Apple TV 4K's upscalling looks better to my eye.

However, I have to experiment some more, as I'm not sure if motion is handled the same way. Particularly with movie content at 24hz.

What do you think? Have you read anything on this?


----------



## Uppsalaing

ClerkDante said:


> Thanks for the reply. With AppleTV set to 4K SDR, and Match Content on, what do you suggest for HDMI Ouput and Chroma? And just to reiterate, I should just leave “Enable HDR” alone?


I have HDMI Output on YCbCr
I have Chroma on 4:2:0, since 4:4:4 does not seem to work for me in 4K. I don't know if this is a cable limitation or if it is the projector's chipset. I'd have to check the charts in the biggening of this thread or in the manual.

I have left Enable HDR alone, but when I play HDR content the Apple TV sends an HDR signal since I have Match Content Range turned on.


----------



## jwhn

Uppsalaing said:


> This is my subjective opinion from watching the two settings on upscaled content. The Apple TV 4K's upscalling looks better to my eye.
> 
> However, I have to experiment some more, as I'm not sure if motion is handled the same way. Particularly with movie content at 24hz.
> 
> What do you think? Have you read anything on this?



I've found it pretty hard to tell the difference. The Epson does seem to have a lot of settings for the 4K enhancements so there may be ways to dial it in. But I haven't spent much time with it. The only thing I read once was to let the device that costs thousands do the upscaling vs the one that costs hundreds (or less). ; )



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

jwhn said:


> I've found it pretty hard to tell the difference. The Epson does seem to have a lot of settings for the 4K enhancements so there may be ways to dial it in. But I haven't spent much time with it. The only thing I read once was to let the device that costs thousands do the upscaling vs the one that costs hundreds (or less). ; )
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I know... I switch between having the Apple TV or the Epson do the upscaling every two months. Can't settle. Not much between the two.

Either way, i have the Epson do the e-shift. And there are the Image Enhancement presets that you mention, but I tend to keep those off unless I have a low resolution source (under 1080p streams or DVDs) or very low bitrate content (throttled broadband). I find sharpness is never lacking with blu-rays or high quality streams and above.

I think it might be a case of the two devices simply using different maths to upscale which accounts for most of the difference (bicubic, Lanczos and other maths i don't understand). The Apple TV seems sharper, but the Epson seems to do motion in a slightly more filmic manner when it not receiving a 4K signal from the Apple TV. I haven't checked UHD discs yet as I won't get a player until late next month.

The AppleTV is my only current 4K source, so I don't have others to compare.

Do any of you guys find motion looks different when you feed the Epson a 4K signal (any source) rather than a 1080p signal? I'm not sure if it's something i'm imagining, or Apple TV related or projector related... It seems very subtle in any case. My family and friends don't notice it, but they aren't on AVS forum 

EDIT: It seems I had some lipsync setting turned on in my AVR which probably gave me that strange sensation. Turning it off made it seem better. i still have to test some more.


----------



## jwhn

ClerkDante said:


> Thanks, can you elaborate? I’m not keystoning to get the image on the screen, only to adjust it’s shape once centered. Should I be placing the image on an extreme edge and lens shifting will make the adjustment with less image warp than physical aligning?
> 
> Tell me like I’m a four year.



This video may help you. Your issue is likely that your projector is not properly aligned. 








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ClerkDante

That completely solved my problem. Thanks!


----------



## Mr.G

jwhn said:


> Yes, that would be great.
> 
> I am actually curious more than anything because I tested the Sony last May and believe I came to the same conclusion that you did - that is actually does work. But now I am wondering if I may have been confused. So I would appreciate it if you could take a look.


I ran the Sony X800 last night to test Netflix. As I said previously I generally don't use it to stream but it's a good backup if needed. The UI that Netflix presents on the X800 may look different from other devices, UHD titles it will display either Ultra HD 4K or HDR. The titles I tested were Netflix Originals - _Game Over_, _Mindhunter_ and _The Outsider_. With _Mindhunter_ the X800 was set for 4K upscaling. With _Game Over_ I removed the upscaling in settings. 
Both HDR versions produced BT.2020 HDR. _The Outsider_ which the Netflix UI indicated was Ultra HD 4K produced BT.709 SDR. I did not photograph the screen projector info for that title.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Mr.G said:


> I ran the Sony X800 last night to test Netflix. As I said previously I generally don't use it to stream but it's a good backup if needed. The UI that Netflix presents on the X800 may look different from other devices, UHD titles it will display either Ultra HD 4K or HDR. The titles I tested were Netflix Originals - _Game Over_, _Mindhunter_ and _The Outsider_. With _Mindhunter_ the X800 was set for 4K upscaling. With _Game Over_ I removed the upscaling in settings.
> Both HDR versions produced BT.2020 HDR. _The Outsider_ which the Netflix UI indicated was Ultra HD 4K produced BT.709 SDR. I did not photograph the screen projector info for that title.


That seems to indicate that with this combination of equipment Netflix can stream either in 1080p HDR or 4k SDR, but not 4K HDR.


----------



## Mr.G

Dominic Chan said:


> That seems to indicate that with this combination of equipment Netflix can stream either in 1080p HDR or 4k SDR, but not 4K HDR.


??? Did you look at my screen photos? They clearly show I was receiving BT.2020 HDR on 2 titles. Where's the confusion?


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> That seems to indicate that with this combination of equipment Netflix can stream either in 1080p HDR or 4k SDR, but not 4K HDR.



Agreed. With the key limiting piece of equipment being the 5040UB. If your JVC has an 18 GB chipset you should not have this issue.

Netflix has stated that they want to set the standards for 4K / HDR. And as part of this they have defined UHD 4K as 60hz. No idea why they have done this.

So you will typically need to run at 60hz to get UHD and HDR with Netflix. 

The Apple TV 4K is the one exception as far as I can tell. They seem to allow Dolby Vision to stream at 24hz at 4K.

I thought some of the UHD players may work also but it appears they are upscaling.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Mr.G said:


> ??? Did you look at my screen photos? They clearly show I was receiving BT.2020 HDR on 2 titles. Where's the confusion?



Your pictures show just what I've been saying. Netflix is not sending 4K and HDR at the same time. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mr.G

jwhn said:


> Your pictures show just what I've been saying. Netflix is not sending 4K and HDR at the same time.


Correct. The Netflix UI on the X800 seems to treat them as either Ultra HD 4K or HDR...on the limited number of titles I examined.

As I said I don't use the X800 to stream that's what I have the Roku Premiere+ and Apple TV 4K for.

However as a backup device it's sufficient. No streaming device does everything perfectly.


----------



## jwhn

Mr.G said:


> Correct. The Netflix UI on the X800 seems to treat them as either Ultra HD 4K or HDR...on the limited number of titles I examined.
> 
> 
> 
> As I said I don't use the X800 to stream that's what I have the Roku Premiere+ and Apple TV 4K for.
> 
> 
> 
> However as a backup device it's sufficient. No streaming device does everything perfectly.



This is not an issue with the Sony or a unique UI for that device. This is the case with essentially ALL streaming devices (except the Apple TV). They will all show either 4K or HDR but not both when using the 5040UB. This shows that your original menu picture was reflecting the Sony upscaling. This is the topic we have been discussing and that Dominic perfectly summarized. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mr.G

jwhn said:


> This is not an issue with the Sony or a unique UI for that device. This is the case with essentially ALL streaming devices (except the Apple TV). They will all show either 4K or HDR but not both when using the 5040UB. This shows that your original menu picture was reflecting the Sony upscaling. This is the topic we have been discussing and that Dominic perfectly summarized.


You're welcome.


----------



## sddp

Mr.G said:


> Can you swap your old receiver back into the chain to see if the problem goes away? Optimally the WirelessHD transmitter needs a straight line of sight as short as possible since it uses the 60 Ghz frequency which is very fast but lacks range and is easily blocked. Do you have new router that uses the 60 Ghz frequency?


Sorry for the delay, been running some test before I got back to you. 
The old receiver was sold a while back to get the new 6400.

The wireless transmitter was on the far left in a cabinet about 5' high (the projector is 1.5' on a pole from ceiling dead center and 23' from the front of the room/transmitter. Worked flawlessly for a year till I rebuilt the theater room and now the transmitter is in a horizontal cabinet on top of a DVD unit so about 6" above the floor. I am using the same router as before. I thought I could chase it down to if it was the XBOX ONE X or the Sony PS 4, but both have the same issue and it's way worse on 3D material (which what you're telling me, makes more sense, more data being wirelessly transmitted).

Is there anything else I can try or a setting perhaps in the Denon X6400H?


Thank you for your time in this frustrating issue


----------



## Jaflores

Can someone please link best settings for 4k Blu Ray viewing from Sony 800 4k player. I've read through hundreds of pages with no clear understanding of anything . Also what HDMI works best. I have a 4.2.2 cable but not sure it supports HDR


----------



## Viche

Dominic Chan said:


> That seems to indicate that with this combination of equipment Netflix can stream either in 1080p HDR or 4k SDR, but not 4K HDR.





jwhn said:


> This is not an issue with the Sony or a unique UI for that device. This is the case with essentially ALL streaming devices (except the Apple TV). They will all show either 4K or HDR but not both when using the 5040UB. This shows that your original menu picture was reflecting the Sony upscaling. This is the topic we have been discussing and that Dominic perfectly summarized.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Would the linker allow these devices to send Netflix in 4k HDR?


----------



## Mr.G

sddp said:


> Sorry for the delay, been running some test before I got back to you.
> The old receiver was sold a while back to get the new 6400.
> 
> The wireless transmitter was on the far left in a cabinet about 5' high (the projector is 1.5' on a pole from ceiling dead center and 23' from the front of the room/transmitter. Worked flawlessly for a year till I rebuilt the theater room and now the transmitter is in a horizontal cabinet on top of a DVD unit so about 6" above the floor. I am using the same router as before. I thought I could chase it down to if it was the XBOX ONE X or the Sony PS 4, but both have the same issue and it's way worse on 3D material (which what you're telling me, makes more sense, more data being wirelessly transmitted).
> 
> Is there anything else I can try or a setting perhaps in the Denon X6400H?
> 
> Thank you for your time in this frustrating issue


I have no experience with the Epson Wireless Transmitter and can only go off the instructions on the Epson site.

https://files.support.epson.com/doc...lesshd/reference/wihd_transmission_range.html
https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd3/cpd39809/source/wirelesshd/concepts/wihd_placement.html

It would seem your new/current location of the transmitter has changed the signal strength/reception enough to introduce the occasional problems you see.


----------



## ayrton

sddp said:


> Sorry for the delay, been running some test before I got back to you.
> The old receiver was sold a while back to get the new 6400.
> 
> The wireless transmitter was on the far left in a cabinet about 5' high (the projector is 1.5' on a pole from ceiling dead center and 23' from the front of the room/transmitter. Worked flawlessly for a year till I rebuilt the theater room and now the transmitter is in a horizontal cabinet on top of a DVD unit so about 6" above the floor. I am using the same router as before. I thought I could chase it down to if it was the XBOX ONE X or the Sony PS 4, but both have the same issue and it's way worse on 3D material (which what you're telling me, makes more sense, more data being wirelessly transmitted).
> 
> Is there anything else I can try or a setting perhaps in the Denon X6400H?
> 
> 
> Thank you for your time in this frustrating issue


As Mr.G said, plus if your transmitter is lower than the PJ, you can aim it at the PJ. (Mount it at an angle so it is aimed directly at the PJ)


----------



## jwhn

Viche said:


> Would the linker allow these devices to send Netflix in 4k HDR?


Yes, but I believe it would convert it to 8-bit vs. 12-bit. It seems to be worth it for gaming but I'm not convinced that there is enough of a difference outside of gaming to make it worth the investment. But I am open to be proven wrong.

By the way, all of this should really be updated in the original post. It seems that @shepdog has not been present in this forum for a very long time. Does anyone know what can be done? The lack of updates to the original post leads to the same topic getting discussed over and over. That makes the thread even larger, and then people are even less inclined to read previous posts. A never ending doom loop. ; ) 

Would be nice if he updated it and/or someone else took it over and updated it.


----------



## Roblj4

*5040ub brightness?*

Hello,
I'm sure this has been asked before. But, after scrolling through 6 pages of posts, I figured I would just ask. Does anyone use this projector in a moderate/high ambient light room? I'm looking at purchasing this projector, but I'd like to hear from owners how it does with a small amount of ambient light in the room. Projector central rates the 5040 at 2400 lumens in medium power. Any pics maybe? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Azekecse

Roblj4 said:


> Hello,
> I'm sure this has been asked before. But, after scrolling through 6 pages of posts, I figured I would just ask. Does anyone use this projector in a moderate/high ambient light room? I'm looking at purchasing this projector, but I'd like to hear from owners how it does with a small amount of ambient light in the room. Projector central rates the 5040 at 2400 lumens in medium power. Any pics maybe? Thanks in advance.


My quick thoughts, you would probably need a Gray Screen with perhaps 0.8 Gain. I'm sure others will chime in.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Roblj4

Azekecse said:


> My quick thoughts, you would probably need a Gray Screen with perhaps 0.8 Gain. I'm sure others will chime in.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Yeah, that's what I am thinking. I ordered an ALR screen as I am sure that will help. I really appreciate the advice. Any other thoughts are welcome.


----------



## gene4ht

Roblj4 said:


> Hello,
> I'm sure this has been asked before. But, after scrolling through 6 pages of posts, I figured I would just ask. Does anyone use this projector in a moderate/high ambient light room? I'm looking at purchasing this projector, but I'd like to hear from owners how it does with a small amount of ambient light in the room. Projector central rates the 5040 at 2400 lumens in medium power. Any pics maybe? Thanks in advance.


Don't think there's a universal answer to your question as opinions and tolerance for image quality will vary. So...it depends...it depends on the PJ to screen distance, how much ambient light, direct or indirect light, and how fanatical one is about blacks and contrast. However, in general and IMO, I find that even with some indirect ambient light for a 120" screen, the 5040 throws a very respectable watchable image. If you're suggesting a moderate to high ambient light room then a grey screen or ALR screen will likely be necessary to maximize image quality.


----------



## Roblj4

gene4ht said:


> Don't think there's a universal answer to your question as opinions and tolerance for image quality will vary. So...it depends...it depends on the PJ to screen distance, how much ambient light, direct or indirect light, and how fanatical one is about blacks and contrast. However, in general and IMO, I find that even with some indirect ambient light for a 120" screen, the 5040 throws a very respectable watchable image. If you're suggesting a moderate to high ambient light room then a grey screen or ALR screen will likely be necessary to maximize image quality.


I suppose the reason why I felt it necessary to ask this question was because there are no home theater stores near me that display this projector. So, unfortunately, I am left with speculation and inquiry. I used a calculator on projector central that is supposed to display a relatively close throw distance after you enter a few variables. On the safe side, I have decided that 11 feet will work well in my living room. This is within the capabilities of the 5040ub according to Epson. 11 ft at 100 inches. The ambient light will actually be closer to light/moderate in my application. However, it would be nice to open a window during the summer and still have a usable image. I've already purchased an ALR screen. It will take several weeks to get here as they are made-to-order. I'm not fanatical about contrast; I believe that anything will be a large improvement from my current projector. But, that won't stop me from doing my best to achieve the best image I can within reason. Thank you for your insight.


----------



## gene4ht

Roblj4 said:


> I suppose the reason why I felt it necessary to ask this question was because there are no home theater stores near me that display this projector. So, unfortunately, I am left with speculation and inquiry. I used a calculator on projector central that is supposed to display a relatively close throw distance after you enter a few variables. On the safe side, I have decided that 11 feet will work well in my living room. This is within the capabilities of the 5040ub according to Epson. 11 ft at 100 inches. The ambient light will actually be closer to light/moderate in my application. However, it would be nice to open a window during the summer and still have a usable image. I've already purchased an ALR screen. It will take several weeks to get here as they are made-to-order. I'm not fanatical about contrast; I believe that anything will be a large improvement from my current projector. But, that won't stop me from doing my best to achieve the best image I can within reason. Thank you for your insight.


For comparison, I throw a 115" diagonal image from exactly 12'...lens to screen (standard 1.0 gain) Even though I have a completely light controlled room, the family frequently prefers lights on (3 indirect 100 watt down lights) in the rear of the room. The image from the 5040 is spectacular/gorgeous with lights off and very good with the rear lights on. I'm betting you'll be very pleased. Lastly, you may want to consider window coverings or blinds that control light yet allow air flow?


----------



## gibsonm21

Roblj4 said:


> Hello,
> I'm sure this has been asked before. But, after scrolling through 6 pages of posts, I figured I would just ask. Does anyone use this projector in a moderate/high ambient light room? I'm looking at purchasing this projector, but I'd like to hear from owners how it does with a small amount of ambient light in the room. Projector central rates the 5040 at 2400 lumens in medium power. Any pics maybe? Thanks in advance.


On bright days, like football sundays, my screen can get somewhat washed out, but then I can kick the projector into medium or high power mode, and it's not that bad. On the weekdays, I get home in the afternoon, so I don't really have to deal with a ton of ambient light.

The pics are around noon / early evening / night (all eco mode except the BvS shot). I only have blinds / no drapes. 120" screen and the lens is 16ft from the wall.


----------



## LumensLover

Roblj4 said:


> Hello,
> I'm sure this has been asked before. But, after scrolling through 6 pages of posts, I figured I would just ask. Does anyone use this projector in a moderate/high ambient light room? I'm looking at purchasing this projector, but I'd like to hear from owners how it does with a small amount of ambient light in the room. Projector central rates the 5040 at 2400 lumens in medium power. Any pics maybe? Thanks in advance.


I've used this projector with a variety of ambient light rejecting screens. The Black Diamond, the Dark Star, amongst others. It is the best-performing home theater projector I've had when it comes to solid black levels and brightness when pairing with the ambient light rejecting screen. 

It is also the brightest home theater projector I've had that has solid black levels. Next one down being the Epson 3700.


----------



## Kelvin1000

Roblj4 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked before. But, after scrolling through 6 pages of posts, I figured I would just ask. Does anyone use this projector in a moderate/high ambient light room? I'm looking at purchasing this projector, but I'd like to hear from owners how it does with a small amount of ambient light in the room. Projector central rates the 5040 at 2400 lumens in medium power. Any pics maybe? Thanks in advance.




Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh.../forum/showthread.php?p=47105641&share_type=t


----------



## am2model3

5040ub you will run into video signal issues with its HDMI at 10.2gbps input limitations, despite being hdmi 2.0 compatible, its really hdmi 1.4+.

uhd60 has 18gbps HDMI 2.0 input; and you get all the benefits that entails.


----------



## NetViper

Hey guys, I’ve got the room... so is there any good reason to get a 120” screen vs 130”?


----------



## Azekecse

NetViper said:


> Hey guys, I’ve got the room... so is there any good reason to get a 120” screen vs 130”?


Less expensive...go 130" if both screens are the same material.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## kbarnes701

NetViper said:


> Hey guys, I’ve got the room... so is there any good reason to get a 120” screen vs 130”?


Go big or go home  Only reason I can think of to go for the smaller screen would be if you have to sit real close to it. I like to sit the same distance from a (2.35:1) screen as the screen is wide - a 1:1 ratio.


----------



## carp

kbarnes701 said:


> Go big or go home  Only reason I can think of to go for the smaller screen would be if you have to sit real close to it. I like to sit the same distance from a (2.35:1) screen as the screen is wide - a 1:1 ratio.


Agreed. I also prefer the more immersive experience. My eyes are 10 feet away from a 12' 3" wide scope screen and to me that's perfect. Of the many people that come over, only 1 guy prefers the back row which is 17 feet from the screen. The only catch is that shaky cam movies are a bit rough (newest Bourne movie) but I hate that effect anyway, even on a smaller screen.


----------



## ht guy

ht guy said:


> Part of the issue may be that there are multiple versions here. I will try to delete the older ones and point to this post.
> 
> Here is the latest version (the last one incorrectly indicated oledurt's v.2 Bright Cinema setting used 50 for brightness instead of 40.)
> 
> Most importantly, a big shout out and thank you to oledurt, Dave Harper and all the other users who have posted their settings here.





tasoik said:


> Is there any update on these settings or is it final?





merkaba said:


> Does anyone know if there is a new/updated settings PDF? The latest one that i've found is from November 2017. I'm wondering what people are using on their HDR 4k movies for settings to get an awesome bright picture?
> 
> I'm referring to this post: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352





Jaflores said:


> Can someone please link best settings for 4k Blu Ray viewing from Sony 800 4k player. I've read through hundreds of pages with no clear understanding of anything . Also what HDMI works best. I have a 4.2.2 cable but not sure it supports HDR


Hey tasoik and merkaba, I've been watching the thread since and don't believe anyone has posted a full set of settings.

Considering the work that went into the calibrations that were posted, there is likely limited value in adding additional sets. Having said that, if folks get excited about something new that gets posted (ala Dave Harper or oledurt,) I'd likely do an update.

merkaba, the summary includes settings for both HDR and SDR, so that is likely what those users (and others) are using for 4K HDR. Another alternative would be to use an Oppo and send SDR. I know there are some JVC users who are having good luck with that, but haven't seen any reports here.

Jaflores, a summary of settings that has been posted here, as well as some from other sources can be found here.


----------



## Roblj4

am2model3 said:


> 5040ub you will run into video signal issues with its HDMI at 10.2gbps input limitations, despite being hdmi 2.0 compatible, its really hdmi 1.4+.
> 
> uhd60 has 18gbps HDMI 2.0 input; and you get all the benefits that entails.


So I see. Someone suggested a fiber optic HDMI cable?


----------



## jimmyk36

*Are these the settings that everyone seems to be taking about?*



Dave Harper said:


> OK here are the settings, told in menu pictures mostly. I set the menu item to the specific mode it's in instead of AUTO so you can see what it is supposed to be and to make sure it's in that mode specifically to get the proper results. The most important settings are the gamma, contrast and setting it to SDR mode manually instead of HDR. (This is to simulate using a projector/display that isn't HDR capable, like the amazing LS10000, which I want to try this on and will post a similar post there in that thread):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings are, from left to right 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 16, 32.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Panasonic UB900 showing sending HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This puts the clip point for HDR specular highlights/whites at about 1200 nits. If I could've went higher on contrast I would've probably made that clipping point at about 1000 nits.
> 
> You may also want to adjust the color saturation some. That was the last thing I messed with very late last night (or should I say this morning!  ) so it may not be perfect, but it certainly made my jaw drop at that setting watching Ghostbusters!
> 
> If you have an SDR only display you can use an hdfury Linker to trick your source into sending its full HDR signal and then disable the HDR flag on its output to the display. I hope to try this on an LS10000. If anyone here has one or knows someone with one, please refer them here.
> 
> Enjoy and please feel free to tweak as needed and share your results.


Just bought a 5040. Are these the settings everyone is referring to? Are these still the ones to use after the latest firmware update? 

TIA


----------



## robc1976

I may have asked this before, but where do you get bulbs from? Epson? 

I have 1020hrs and mostly on high mode. I did some tweaking then decided to recheck brightness and I had to move brightness up 5 clicks. I assume with bulb age they get weaker.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

robc1976 said:


> I may have asked this before, but where do you get bulbs from? Epson?
> 
> I have 1020hrs and mostly on high mode. I did some tweaking then decided to recheck brightness and I had to move brightness up 5 clicks. I assume with bulb age they get weaker.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Here: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=Epson%205040UB%20bulb&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## robc1976

Azekecse said:


> Here: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/sear...&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Thank you! Wow I thought it was just a bulb not a entire lamp enclosure. That is totally worth the price.

Is it hard to install? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## buntcake72

jimmyk36 said:


> Just bought a 5040. Are these the settings everyone is referring to? Are these still the ones to use after the latest firmware update?
> 
> TIA


I'm interested in knowing that too!


----------



## Roblj4

am2model3 said:


> 5040ub you will run into video signal issues with its HDMI at 10.2gbps input limitations, despite being hdmi 2.0 compatible, its really hdmi 1.4+.
> 
> uhd60 has 18gbps HDMI 2.0 input; and you get all the benefits that entails.


With that in mind, would anyone like to make a suggestion of a 25ft+ hdmi cable that is 4k compatible for this projector? I've been told that 4k won't travel through a hdmi cable longer than 15ft. Who knows if this is the case. However, my cable run is 26 ft. So, I need something around that length or longer. Money isn't an issue.


----------



## Roblj4

I'm sure this has been asked several times. However, instead of me searching endlessly through the forums, would anyone like to make a suggestion of a 25ft+ HDMI cable that is 4k compatible for this projector? I've been told that 4k won't travel through a HDMI cable longer than 15ft. Who knows if this is the case. However, my cable run is 26 ft. So, I need something around that length or longer. Money isn't an issue.


----------



## Roblj4

robc1976 said:


> I may have asked this before, but where do you get bulbs from? Epson?
> 
> I have 1020hrs and mostly on high mode. I did some tweaking then decided to recheck brightness and I had to move brightness up 5 clicks. I assume with bulb age they get weaker.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I'd go with OEM Epson bulbs. However, there are many places online that sell bulbs. Just google bulbs for the 5040ub.


----------



## robc1976

Roblj4 said:


> I'm sure this has been asked several times. However, instead of me searching endlessly through the forums, would anyone like to make a suggestion of a 25ft+ HDMI cable that is 4k compatible for this projector? I've been told that 4k won't travel through a HDMI cable longer than 15ft. Who knows if this is the case. However, my cable run is 26 ft. So, I need something around that length or longer. Money isn't an issue.


Cabernet monoprice, mine is 35Ft and flawless. I have a extra one also lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Roblj4 said:


> I'd go with OEM Epson bulbs. However, there are many places online that sell bulbs. Just google bulbs for the 5040ub.


Where do you get OEM? epson? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

Roblj4 said:


> I'm sure this has been asked several times. However, instead of me searching endlessly through the forums, would anyone like to make a suggestion of a 25ft+ HDMI cable that is 4k compatible for this projector? I've been told that 4k won't travel through a HDMI cable longer than 15ft. Who knows if this is the case. However, my cable run is 26 ft. So, I need something around that length or longer. Money isn't an issue.


Having personally installed at least 6 5040 PJs and almost the same number of JVC x590r units, I can say with complete conviction that the *HDMI HERE* can pass 4K effectively enough to meet any task the JVC wants it to. The Epson, ditto.
If you have problems passing 4K HDR10 from any rated device to the PJ, it's not the cord.

HDMI 4KCertified......and I like 'em enough to use 'em. What an endorsement! 

Cable Matters specs:
HIGH SPEED 4K HDMI CABLE supports the latest HDMI 2.0b standard including [email protected] UHD video content, HDR 10 image quality, RGB 4:4:4 chroma colors, and 18 Gbps bandwidth; Supports video resolutions up to 4Kx2K (UHD) including 4096x2160, 3840x2160, 2560x1600, 2560x1440, 1920x1200, and 1080p


----------



## Roblj4

MississippiMan said:


> Having personally installed at least 6 5040 PJs and almost the same number of JVC x590r units, I can say with complete conviction that the *HDMI HERE* can pass 4K effectively enough to meet any task the JVC wants it to. The Epson, ditto.
> If you have problems passing 4K HDR10 from any rated device to the PJ, it's not the cord.
> 
> HDMI 4KCertified......and I like 'em enough to use 'em. What an endorsement!
> 
> Cable Matters specs:
> HIGH SPEED 4K HDMI CABLE supports the latest HDMI 2.0b standard including [email protected] UHD video content, HDR 10 image quality, RGB 4:4:4 chroma colors, and 18 Gbps bandwidth; Supports video resolutions up to 4Kx2K (UHD) including 4096x2160, 3840x2160, 2560x1600, 2560x1440, 1920x1200, and 1080p


Interesting. Well, I'll have to look into that as an option. I'm also considering a fiber optic cable that I found as well. Hey MM, do you agree that I shouldn't have any issues with using the 5040ub in daylight while using a grey screen?


----------



## murphy4040

MississippiMan said:


> Having personally installed at least 6 5040 PJs and almost the same number of JVC x590r units, I can say with complete conviction that the *HDMI HERE* can pass 4K effectively enough to meet any task the JVC wants it to. The Epson, ditto.
> If you have problems passing 4K HDR10 from any rated device to the PJ, it's not the cord.
> 
> HDMI 4KCertified......and I like 'em enough to use 'em. What an endorsement!
> 
> Cable Matters specs:
> HIGH SPEED 4K HDMI CABLE supports the latest HDMI 2.0b standard including [email protected] UHD video content, HDR 10 image quality, RGB 4:4:4 chroma colors, and 18 Gbps bandwidth; Supports video resolutions up to 4Kx2K (UHD) including 4096x2160, 3840x2160, 2560x1600, 2560x1440, 1920x1200, and 1080p


Is a cable's support of 4K binary? In other words, if I can get a 4K signal (which I get today over an older 25 foot cable) will it pass all of the signals supported by the source and the projector? Or, might it not support [email protected] or 18 Gbps or....? If the cable only support a subset of specs, what would you expect to happen: no signal, downscale the signal? Thanks.


----------



## old corps

robc1976 said:


> Cabernet monoprice, mine is 35Ft and flawless. I have a extra one also lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


+1
I'm using a 50' Monoprice Cabernet cable that I've been using for a couple of years and it works just fine. I thought for sure I'd probably have to upgrade to a fiber optic cable at this length but not so.

Ed


----------



## inspector

old corps said:


> +1
> I'm using a 50' Monoprice Cabernet cable that I've been using for a couple of years and it works just fine. I thought for sure I'd probably have to upgrade to a fiber optic cable at this length but not so.
> 
> Ed


Been using mine for a year now with no problems too.


----------



## BlackMalexXx

I have all 4k equipment, which plays fine, but when I check my projector, the 4K enhancements grayed out, along with the Frame Interpolation.What's wrong?


----------



## jimmyk36

Does anyone have any recommendations for someone that does projector calibrations in Northern Virginia? In particular the Epson 5040?


----------



## ayrton

BlackMalexXx said:


> I have all 4k equipment, which plays fine, but when I check my projector, the 4K enhancements grayed out, along with the Frame Interpolation.What's wrong?


I *believe* that "4K Enhancements" is for any signal that is *not* 4K. Feed it 1080P and you should have it available..


----------



## gunlife

BlackMalexXx said:


> I have all 4k equipment, which plays fine, but when I check my projector, the 4K enhancements grayed out, along with the Frame Interpolation.What's wrong?


 Nothing at all. If the projector has a 4k signal it automatically has 4 enhancement engaged. Also frame interpolation does not work when a 4k signal is used with the 5040.


----------



## ndabunka

gunlife said:


> Nothing at all. If the projector has a 4k signal it automatically has 4 enhancement engaged. Also frame interpolation does not work when a 4k signal is used with the 5040.


I don't think that frame interpolation works with any 4K projector in any projector & who would need it anyway at that higher a resolution unless they are trying to do 3D but since 3D isn't a 4K spec...it won't be found on any projector so yea, it's normal to be greyed out as it's only a viable option on the lower resolutions.


----------



## FendersRule

NetViper said:


> Hey guys, I’ve got the room... so is there any good reason to get a 120” screen vs 130”?


Size of front wall. I would take a 120" over a very cramped 130".

Cramped: 
Floor standing speakers obstruct some of the image in the furthest viewing angle.
If ceilings are only 8' high, that means more wall glare,
If ceilings are only 8' high, that means you have to mount the screen higher so that the center/subwoofer isn't obstructing the image (see above).

If you're clear on all that, might as well go with the bigger option!


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> I don't think that frame interpolation works with any 4K projector in any projector & who would need it anyway at that higher a resolution unless they are trying to do 3D but since 3D isn't a 4K spec...it won't be found on any projector so yea, it's normal to be greyed out as it's only a viable option on the lower resolutions.


JVC does frame interpolation (aka clear motion drive) with 4K signals: http://eu.jvc.com/microsite/eu/dla-x9000/feature01.html


----------



## murphy4040

murphy4040 said:


> One other thing to add...one of the programs from DTV said in the info that it was 4K HDR. It came across as 4K, but the info on the projector said SDR. Not sure if this is just early support from DTV, or if there are setup steps I'm missing....





murphy4040 said:


> I just got this projector and so far, so good. The only 4K input I have at the moment is DTV. Each time I time I turn on my system (DTV -> Denon AVR -> Epson) and go to any 4K channel I get a message that my TV does not support 4K and will display the content in 1080P mode. I then have to go into the DTV settings and add 4K back as an option, which it accepts and then everything works fine.
> 
> One thought: the 25ft HDMI cable from the AVR to the projector is probably 7-8 years old. Could that contribute here? I've read whether or not the cable works is pretty binary: either it works, or it doesn't, and you only need to upgrade to a newer cable if it doesn't work; ie., you don't get any image. But I do get an image... Any other thoughts? Is there another thread/forum that I should post in? Thanks!


For anyone interested, I found that if I turn on the AVR first, then the DTV receiver and the projector last the 4K resolution does not get de-selected.


----------



## LumensLover

kbarnes701 said:


> Go big or go home  Only reason I can think of to go for the smaller screen would be if you have to sit real close to it. I like to sit the same distance from a (2.35:1) screen as the screen is wide - a 1:1 ratio.


Big screens are great until the bulb begins to dim.


----------



## LumensLover

Roblj4 said:


> Interesting. Well, I'll have to look into that as an option. I'm also considering a fiber optic cable that I found as well. Hey MM, do you agree that I shouldn't have any issues with using the 5040ub in daylight while using a grey screen?


A regular grey screen won't do much to preserve black levels under ambient light.


----------



## Uppsalaing

murphy4040 said:


> For anyone interested, I found that if I turn on the AVR first, then the DTV receiver and the projector last the 4K resolution does not get de-selected.


You might want to make sure that your projector is actually receiving a 4K signal...

You can check under Info in the menu.


----------



## murphy4040

Uppsalaing said:


> You might want to make sure that your projector is actually receiving a 4K signal...
> 
> You can check under Info in the menu.


How do you tell on the info page? I suppose I could figure it out, by comparing to a 1080 signal. I BELIEVE it's getting a 4K signal because when viewing 4K source material the 4K Enhancement option is greyed out. When looking at anything else, the 4K Enhancement option is On. But I am interested to know what confirms 4K on the info page. Thanks!


----------



## Uppsalaing

murphy4040 said:


> How do you tell on the info page? I suppose I could figure it out, by comparing to a 1080 signal. I BELIEVE it's getting a 4K signal because when viewing 4K source material the 4K Enhancement option is greyed out. When looking at anything else, the 4K Enhancement option is On. But I am interested to know what confirms 4K on the info page. Thanks!


You can access this by pressing 'Menu' on the remote and scrolling down to 'Info', then choose 'Projector Info'... You will see lots of useful information including resolution, lamp hours and such...

This shows you the signal the projector is currently receiving.


----------



## carp

LumensLover said:


> Big screens are great until the bulb begins to dim.


Bah.... I'm at 1500 hours and I still love it and wouldn't downsize even a little bit. I made it to around 2000 hours on both my 8350 and 3500 so I'm guessing it will be about the same for the 5040. A new bulb every 2000 hours is no big deal IMO.


----------



## LumensLover

carp said:


> Bah.... I'm at 1500 hours and I still love it and wouldn't downsize even a little bit. I made it to around 2000 hours on both my 8350 and 3500 so I'm guessing it will be about the same for the 5040. A new bulb every 2000 hours is no big deal IMO.


You must be using a white screen. I only use ambient light rejecting screens and they eat up lumens quickly. With that being said I do prefer larger screens.


----------



## brandonb01

jwhn said:


> Mr.G said:
> 
> 
> 
> Correct. The Netflix UI on the X800 seems to treat them as either Ultra HD 4K or HDR...on the limited number of titles I examined.
> 
> 
> 
> As I said I don't use the X800 to stream that's what I have the Roku Premiere+ and Apple TV 4K for.
> 
> 
> 
> However as a backup device it's sufficient. No streaming device does everything perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is not an issue with the Sony or a unique UI for that device. This is the case with essentially ALL streaming devices (except the Apple TV). They will all show either 4K or HDR but not both when using the 5040UB. This shows that your original menu picture was reflecting the Sony upscaling. This is the topic we have been discussing and that Dominic perfectly summarized.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I just setup my new 5040ub, connected to a Roku Ultra, and am experiencing the same thing. No HDR at 4k, in any of the apps (Vudu, Netflix, Amazon). This is with confirmed HDR10 content on Vudu. Vudu streams films at 24hz, so the bandwidth issue shouldn't apply, right? But it seems to.

Please tell me there's a way around this, because the image quality on the projector is great otherwise. Significant upgrade from my old Epson 3500.


----------



## jwhn

brandonb01 said:


> I just setup my new 5040ub, connected to a Roku Ultra, and am experiencing the same thing. No HDR at 4k, in any of the apps (Vudu, Netflix, Amazon). This is with confirmed HDR10 content on Vudu. Vudu streams films at 24hz, so the bandwidth issue shouldn't apply, right? But it seems to.
> 
> Please tell me there's a way around this, because the image quality on the projector is great otherwise. Significant upgrade from my old Epson 3500.



The way around it is to replace the Roku with a Nvidia Shield or Apple TV. I tried the Roku but returned it the same day because of the issues you describe. Some people have used a linker to fix the issue. The issue should only be with Netflix. Amazon will stream HDR at 4K. Vudu will on the Nvidia but not on the ATV. iTunes works on the ATV. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kbarnes701

LumensLover said:


> Big screens are great until the bulb begins to dim.


Not an issue for me as I get all the brightness I need on my 138 inch wide 2.39:1 screen in Eco mode, so I have plenty of flexibility to ramp up the brightness iof needed. And there's no shortage of replacement bulbs 

Cinema *demands *a big screen!


----------



## kbarnes701

carp said:


> Bah.... I'm at 1500 hours and I still love it and wouldn't downsize even a little bit. I made it to around 2000 hours on both my 8350 and 3500 so I'm guessing it will be about the same for the 5040. A new bulb every 2000 hours is no big deal IMO.


Agreed. Compared with what we spend on this hobby, a new bulb every now and then is no biggie. Especially if it enables us to have the true, big-screen experience of real cinema.


----------



## Roblj4

LumensLover said:


> A regular grey screen won't do much to preserve black levels under ambient light.


I purchased an ALR screen. Not a regular grey screen.


----------



## timmyotule

I just bought a 5040UB last month. The first unit I received wouldn't focus the entire screen at the same time and the color uniformity was a bit off. One corner of the box had been crushed in when I received it so it got dropped pretty hard at some point. Epson was great to deal with and sent me a 'new' (the box had definitely been opened before but it was an original box with accessories) unit. Color and focus looks great but I have a question about the auto iris:

How fast should the auto iris set to High Speed react to a scene going from normal exposure to all black? I seem to recall the first unit clamped down the iris so fast that it was somewhat shocking the first time I experience a scene going from brightly lit to solid black (I was watching Moonlight on Blu-ray). With the replacement projector there is a very noticeable delay. The screen goes darkish grey and then nearly a second later it shuts down the iris making the screen pretty close to black. This isn't normal is it?

When I noticed this I was watching Altered Carbon streamed off of a PS4. I'll have to check with a Blu-Ray to see if I get the same results.


----------



## brandonb01

jwhn said:


> brandonb01 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just setup my new 5040ub, connected to a Roku Ultra, and am experiencing the same thing. No HDR at 4k, in any of the apps (Vudu, Netflix, Amazon). This is with confirmed HDR10 content on Vudu. Vudu streams films at 24hz, so the bandwidth issue shouldn't apply, right? But it seems to.
> 
> Please tell me there's a way around this, because the image quality on the projector is great otherwise. Significant upgrade from my old Epson 3500.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The way around it is to replace the Roku with a Nvidia Shield or Apple TV. I tried the Roku but returned it the same day because of the issues you describe. Some people have used a linker to fix the issue. The issue should only be with Netflix. Amazon will stream HDR at 4K. Vudu will on the Nvidia but not on the ATV. iTunes works on the ATV.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks for the pointers. It seems neither of those devices stream 3D though (neither does the Roku I just learned). I may be on a wild goose chase here, but I'd like to find a device than can do both (4K HDR and also 3D streaming).

Can anyone confirm whether the Sony UBP-X800 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray Player streams 4K HDR to the Epson?


----------



## timmyotule

brandonb01 said:


> Thanks for the pointers. It seems neither of those devices stream 3D though (neither does the Roku I just learned). I may be on a wild goose chase here, but I'd like to find a device than can do both (4K HDR and also 3D streaming).
> 
> Can anyone confirm whether the Sony UBP-X800 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray Player streams 4K HDR to the Epson?


It does not for the BT.2020 color space. See this post (and the discussion around it): http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-137.html#post55917838

There are reports that the Samsung K8500 will stream some apps in UHD HDR to the Epson for 24Hz content. I haven't seen that any other players will. Apparently the AppleTV 4k will do it but it doesn't have a separate audio out so it doesn't work for me. I'm hoping that the upcoming Panasonic players will be able to do it or that they will let you use the tone mapping to put out a BT.2020 SDR 4k image.


----------



## roland6465

Well, this may be one of my last posts on this thread. Refurb #4 's power supply died today. I bought the original one year and two weeks ago. I just talked to & then emailed my dealer the details so he can see what he can do. I won't be satisfied until I get the purchase price back so I can get another brand. I'm done with Epson.


----------



## Xzibit190

Thinking about picking up a 5040UB or 6040UB, anyone use an xbox one x or playstation 4 pro on it? I thought I read somewhere that these projectors didn't work well or at all displaying HDR from these devices? Also any real reason to buy a 6040UB over the 5040UB other than color of the unit, additional lamp, and I believe manual iris which I'd probably never use if it's something I have change myself.


----------



## swyda038

So, after having the projector for almost a year, I am still not convinced that 4k movies look any better then a blu-ray version of the same movie on this projector. I have tried pretty much every one of the settings on this forum (ie. HarperVision, Oledurt's, etc) when it comes to 4k movies and when I play the same movie in blu-ray with regular settings, the image quality is in my opinion the same or at least indistinguishable, especially after the latest firmware update. Am I the only one that has similar outcomes in picture quality between 4k and blu-ray? Just wondering if it is even worth it to get 4k discs anymore with this projector.


----------



## roland6465

swyda038 said:


> So, after having the projector for almost a year, I am still not convinced that 4k movies look any better then a blu-ray version of the same movie on this projector. I have tried pretty much every one of the settings on this forum (ie. HarperVision, Oledurt's, etc) when it comes to 4k movies and when I play the same movie in blu-ray with regular settings, the image quality is in my opinion the same or at least indistinguishable, especially after the latest firmware update. Am I the only one that has similar outcomes in picture quality between 4k and blu-ray? Just wondering if it is even worth it to get 4k discs anymore with this projector.


If you can't tell the difference between a HDR UHD disc and a BRD, you may want to check your settings.


----------



## FendersRule

It's all about size of screen and viewing distance.

For me, sitting 8' from a 106" screen, it would be impossible to see the difference between 1080p and 4k unless something is wrong with my setup.

I've never seen the 5040ub in person, so take my "opinion" as mostly invalid, but from the screen captures I've gathered of fuax4k, it should "appear" sharper than 1080p, but not as much clarity as a true 4k projector. I still would expect a visual difference.

Convergence issues will degrade clarity. How is your convergence?


----------



## mik_82

Hi All,

I am projecting the 5040ub on a 125' 2.35.1 silver ticket widescreen screen and I notice the image curves a little in the center of the screen. Is this normal? I don't see any keystone issues as the sides seem to be straight so wondering if this is normal behavior?


----------



## swyda038

roland6465 said:


> If you can't tell the difference between a HDR UHD disc and a BRD, you may want to check your settings.


I have checked my settings for 4k (per the settings posted on this forum) and have tried several of them. In fact I went through them twice to make sure I had them correct and I don't see a discernable difference between 4k disc and regular blu-ray. It's great that you and others are seeing a difference, but I am just putting out there what I am seeing on my end, to see if anyone else is getting the same results. That being said, I think the image quality is good and I think the 4k enhancement does wonders for the blu-ray.


----------



## LumensLover

Roblj4 said:


> I purchased an ALR screen. Not a regular grey screen.


Okay well it is important to make that distinction. If you just say grey screen around here we are going to think you mean a typical grey screen instead of a alr screen.


----------



## LumensLover

roland6465 said:


> Well, this may be one of my last posts on this thread. Refurb #4 's power supply died today. I bought the original one year and two weeks ago. I just talked to & then emailed my dealer the details so he can see what he can do. I won't be satisfied until I get the purchase price back so I can get another brand. I'm done with Epson.


Very sorry to hear this.


----------



## avtvhdbass

roland6465 said:


> Well, this may be one of my last posts on this thread. Refurb #4 's power supply died today. I bought the original one year and two weeks ago. I just talked to & then emailed my dealer the details so he can see what he can do. I won't be satisfied until I get the purchase price back so I can get another brand. I'm done with Epson.


WTH :frown:

I feel your pain and frustration with Epson power supply failure. Mine is a 3rd unit from Epson I have used it for 35 hours now, every time I switch on I pray that it power's on without failure.

I didn't even bother with any calibration for the all the 6040UB projectors. 

Don't forget to add a count to the poll in my signature if you have not done so.

Hope you manage to get your $ back


----------



## LumensLover

avtvhdbass said:


> WTH :frown:
> 
> I feel your pain and frustration with Epson power supply failure. Mine is a 3rd unit from Epson I have used it for 35 hours now, every time I switch on I pray that it power's on without failure.
> 
> I didn't even bother with any calibration for the all the 6040UB projectors.
> 
> Don't forget to add a count to the poll in my signature if you have not done so.
> 
> Hope you manage to get your $ back


Is Epson placing a $2,000 plus hold on your account every time they send you a replacement projector?


----------



## roland6465

My first three exchanges weren’t held, but they put a $3200 hold for the last one. 

My dealer’s Epson rep can’t manage a refund, but has gotten me a new, unused unit shipped overnight with no cc hold or return shipping. I’m going to have to take it and like it. 

The real bummer is that I’ve lost all my settings. I start with Oledurt Cinema and tweak from there. Hopefully I can get it close by Masters Moving Day on Saturday.


----------



## LumensLover

roland6465 said:


> My first three exchanges weren’t held, but they put a $3200 hold for the last one.
> 
> My dealer’s Epson rep can’t manage a refund, but has gotten me a new, unused unit shipped overnight with no cc hold or return shipping. I’m going to have to take it and like it.
> 
> The real bummer is that I’ve lost all my settings. I start with Oledurt Cinema and tweak from there. Hopefully I can get it close by Masters Moving Day on Saturday.


I'm close to taking a gamble on the Epson 5040. However I refuse to deal with credit card holds if I have to go through the refurbished and replacement process. That is just flat out wrong on so many accounts.


----------



## old corps

roland6465 said:


> Well, this may be one of my last posts on this thread. Refurb #4 's power supply died today. I bought the original one year and two weeks ago. I just talked to & then emailed my dealer the details so he can see what he can do. I won't be satisfied until I get the purchase price back so I can get another brand. I'm done with Epson.


Wow, that's absolutely terrible! I'd be out of my mind livid. Sure hope #5 is a winner for you!


Ed


----------



## timmyotule

LumensLover said:


> I'm close to taking a gamble on the Epson 5040. However I refuse to deal with credit card holds if I have to go through the refurbished and replacement process. That is just flat out wrong on so many accounts.


They only do a credit card hold if you want them to ship the replacement before they receive the damaged unit. It makes sense.


----------



## old corps

swyda038 said:


> I have checked my settings for 4k (per the settings posted on this forum) and have tried several of them. In fact I went through them twice to make sure I had them correct and I don't see a discernable difference between 4k disc and regular blu-ray. It's great that you and others are seeing a difference, but I am just putting out there what I am seeing on my end, to see if anyone else is getting the same results. That being said, I think the image quality is good and I think the 4k enhancement does wonders for the blu-ray.



Same story here and I've tried all the suggested settings as well. I'm not buying anymore 4K movies either. On the plus side regular ol' Blurays do indeed look outstanding so I'm quite happy anyway.


Ed
I


----------



## Uppsalaing

roland6465 said:


> Well, this may be one of my last posts on this thread. Refurb #4 's power supply died today. I bought the original one year and two weeks ago. I just talked to & then emailed my dealer the details so he can see what he can do. I won't be satisfied until I get the purchase price back so I can get another brand. I'm done with Epson.


Wow. That sounds very frustrating. I hope you get your money back at least.


----------



## Uppsalaing

roland6465 said:


> My first three exchanges weren’t held, but they put a $3200 hold for the last one.
> 
> My dealer’s Epson rep can’t manage a refund, but has gotten me a new, unused unit shipped overnight with no cc hold or return shipping. I’m going to have to take it and like it.
> 
> The real bummer is that I’ve lost all my settings. I start with Oledurt Cinema and tweak from there. Hopefully I can get it close by Masters Moving Day on Saturday.


Hope it works out for you.

This must be a design flaw of some sort. The power failures. I haven't heard of this happen as regularly with the european versions of this line of projectors.

In the US, it's almost worth getting a JVC or another brand, at higher cost, for the peace of mind. Assuming those are more reliable.


----------



## avtvhdbass

I am not sure how other projectors work. Do they have option to save custom settings to USB as a backup and restore the settings to a new projector of same model?.

EPSON better implement this feature with 5040UB/6040UB it's too much time consuming activity
to restart from beginning. :frown:


----------



## LumensLover

old corps said:


> Same story here and I've tried all the suggested settings as well. I'm not buying anymore 4K movies either. On the plus side regular ol' Blurays do indeed look outstanding so I'm quite happy anyway.
> 
> 
> Ed
> I


I concur. Blu-ray movies look great to me already. I don't see much to any improvement in 4K Ultra Blu-ray movies that I have purchased.


----------



## gene4ht

old corps said:


> Same story here and I've tried all the suggested settings as well. I'm not buying anymore 4K movies either. On the plus side regular ol' Blurays do indeed look outstanding so I'm quite happy anyway.





LumensLover said:


> I concur. Blu-ray movies look great to me already. I don't see much to any improvement in 4K Ultra Blu-ray movies that I have purchased.


Agree that upscaled BD's look outstanding. Also, 4K "HDR" quality varies...with some acceptable and pleasing...and others still too dark (without fiddling with settings). Lastly, I continue to be angered by some studios (ie. Lionsgate) reserving Atmos for 4K versions only.


----------



## fender0577

Morning fellow avs members, I have a question.Im sorry if this has been asked, but which wireless lan adapter model, is compatible with the 5040ube, because I bought the ELPAP10 V12H731p02, but it's not finding my network.I didn't have time last night to really dig deep into it, I just need to know if this is the correct adapter I need, before I waste my time trying to figure this thing out.Thanks in advance.


----------



## DanOpii

Hello All!

I just received my 5040ub and have it mounted and projecting a picture on my DIY AT Spandex Wall (144" x 88"). This is my first PJ and home theater set up so I'm brand new and am a bit overwhelmed with all the settings available to me.

I currently have a 1080p AVR with a 5.1 system. I am using the Nividia Shield to do most of my viewing for now until I purchase a UHD BR Player. This just means that I can't do 4k since my receiver doesn't support it. I can plug directly into the Shield however I then lose my 5.1 system.

I figured I'd stop by and see what suggestions you guys have for me. I have a few questions...


 What's the order of operations for setting up a new projector, and, in this case the 5040ub?
 I'm planning on having 4 screen sizes... 148"@16:9, 140"@2.39:1, 163"@16:9, 154"@2.39:1. How do I set up lens memory to do this? It doesn't seem to return to the correct position/settings when changing between different saved settings. I read a post in this thread about only being able to go one way or it gets confused?
 Do I need to update firmware? Where do I even check the firmware version?
 Any reason to have it hooked up via ethernet? (Dumb Question... Just not sure why this would be necessary)
 Any way to test if I got a lemon or for known problems that the 5040ub may have?

Thanks all!


----------



## mik_82

mik_82 said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I am projecting the 5040ub on a 125' 2.35.1 silver ticket widescreen screen and I notice the image curves a little in the center of the screen. Is this normal? I don't see any keystone issues as the sides seem to be straight so wondering if this is normal behavior?


Anyone?


----------



## roland6465

Uppsalaing said:


> Hope it works out for you.
> 
> This must be a design flaw of some sort. The power failures. I haven't heard of this happen as regularly with the european versions of this line of projectors.
> 
> In the US, it's almost worth getting a JVC or another brand, at higher cost, for the peace of mind. Assuming those are more reliable.


I read/heard somewhere that there was a production run that issues, and it could be the power supply. Even if I'm stuck with Epson, at least I'll know that it was produced more recently, and maybe production is more tweaked now. At least that's what I'm telling myself.

When it works, it does put out a beautiful FauxK picture, though. Unbeatable at the price point, IMO.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

I just purchased a 5040ube and am seriously lost when trying to calibrate this thing for HDR. I can not get it to look even remotely good no matter which settings I input. I tried epsons most recent suggestion of calibrating (to the best I can with an hd essentials disc) bright cinema mode for sdr and then boosting saturation to 55 with the hdr 1 signal. But the gamma in the picture is all off and adjustments with the silly graph epson provides is another world of frustrating. I know this is probably discussed at some point in here but I’m about 400 pages and 20 different settings in and can’t find anything that looks good to me. Can someone point me to some additional settings that might be worth trying? If not I am about to return this for an optoma uhz65 as my buddy has one and I find the hdr presentation on his projector to be far more pleasing (maybe due to optomas gamma settings for hdr?) then the red pushed mud I’m getting out of the epson. Thank you for any input guys. 

FYI My screen is a 100” Cinegray 3d 1.2 gain alr screen and I have updated the projector to the 111 firmware as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## anwar79

Looking at upgrading my 4k player. I have been reading the forums and it came down to these 2.

Oppo 203
Sony X1000ES

1) Would I see a big difference in picture between the 2
2) Is audio better on one or the other
3) Are both friendly with the projector - do i need to get the linker?
4) Are they truely upgrades over the philps 7501 for $500?

Thanks


----------



## gene4ht

anwar79 said:


> *Looking at upgrading my 4k player.* I have been reading the forums and it came down to these 2.


Why?



anwar79 said:


> 1) Would I see a big difference in picture between the 2


No...probably no perceivable difference at all.



anwar79 said:


> 2) Is audio better on one or the other


No...SACD is not discernible by the human ear from CD.



anwar79 said:


> 3) Are both friendly with the projector - do i need to get the linker?


Yes..projector friendly....someone else will need to chime in on the linker



anwar79 said:


> 4) Are they truely upgrades over the philps 7501 for $500?


IMO...No. I own the Philips 7501, Panny DMP UB900, and Oppo UDP-203. In a blind test, you would be hard pressed to tell the difference in PQ between any 4K player...4K is 4K. If you intend to get the 203, better decide quickly as Oppo just announced end of production for its players. The cachet and benefit behind Oppo has been its quality of construction and long term commitment to support...that's what the extra $400 buys. But the realistic term of support is now in question...can't support support without revenue/cash flow. There is also another important question to ask...how much longer do we need disc players as streaming is becoming the norm for content distribution.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-blu-ray-players/2968296-oppo-stop-production-not-joke.html

As an alternative, Panasonic recently announced its new flagship DP-UB9000 to be released late this year.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Does the 5040UB accept HLG setting? It appears that the DirecTV HDR broadcast use this. I haven't been able to get HDR to show up from DirecTV and I was wondering if this was why. I get the 4k signal just fine. Any ideas?


----------



## rustolemite

old corps said:


> Same story here and I've tried all the suggested settings as well. I'm not buying anymore 4K movies either. On the plus side regular ol' Blurays do indeed look outstanding so I'm quite happy anyway.
> 
> 
> Ed
> I


Was curious if I was the only one that wasn't blown away by 4K disc. I use Dynamic with Eco Mode and Rec.2020 and SDR these settings for me make my Blurays look amazing. And also work on all my other non 4K content. I have tried using HDR but the picture is just too dark and with how close the projector is to my seating position I don't like using High mode.
I recently just watched Dredd in 4K and tied the HDR but again too dark and but the picture still wasn't blowing me away like every one says it will. 
Right after watching that I put in 13 Hours on Bluray and the picture was amazing compared to Dredd. 
I know that watching 4K on an Oled TV can produce probably a much better picture than my 5040 can but it shouldn't that big of a difference. I will also be holding off on replacing my BR disc with 4K for awhile longer.


----------



## BlackMalexXx

gunlife said:


> Nothing at all. If the projector has a 4k signal it automatically has 4 enhancement engaged. Also frame interpolation does not work when a 4k signal is used with the 5040.


Well, DUH!! That actually makes sense, now! Thanks!!


----------



## BlackMalexXx

I have an Epson 5040Ub, connected to a Denon-6400, then running to an HD Fury Linker out to the PJ. What are the best settings for this?


----------



## Dominic Chan

ndabunka said:


> I don't think that frame interpolation works with any 4K projector in any projector & who would need it anyway at that higher a resolution


Frame interpolation doesn’t enhance the resolution (visually or otherwise), it’s meant to reduce motion blur.
The JVC projectors perform frame interpolation (they call it CMD) even when doing 4k eshift.


----------



## timmyotule

timmyotule said:


> I just bought a 5040UB last month. The first unit I received wouldn't focus the entire screen at the same time and the color uniformity was a bit off. One corner of the box had been crushed in when I received it so it got dropped pretty hard at some point. Epson was great to deal with and sent me a 'new' (the box had definitely been opened before but it was an original box with accessories) unit. Color and focus looks great but I have a question about the auto iris:
> 
> How fast should the auto iris set to High Speed react to a scene going from normal exposure to all black? I seem to recall the first unit clamped down the iris so fast that it was somewhat shocking the first time I experience a scene going from brightly lit to solid black (I was watching Moonlight on Blu-ray). With the replacement projector there is a very noticeable delay. The screen goes darkish grey and then nearly a second later it shuts down the iris making the screen pretty close to black. This isn't normal is it?
> 
> When I noticed this I was watching Altered Carbon streamed off of a PS4. I'll have to check with a Blu-Ray to see if I get the same results.


Does anyone have input on their auto iris response time in high speed mode?


----------



## fender0577

fender0577 said:


> Morning fellow avs members, I have a question.Im sorry if this has been asked, but which wireless lan adapter model, is compatible with the 5040ube, because I bought the ELPAP10 V12H731p02, but it's not finding my network.I didn't have time last night to really dig deep into it, I just need to know if this is the correct adapter I need, before I waste my time trying to figure this thing out.Thanks in advance.


Anyone?


----------



## qposner

Are there any "must know" items for a 5040 newb? Mine should arrive Monday and I want to make sure I dont miss anything I need to know. This thread is SO long that I cant make heads or tails if there is anything I should know right off the bat. Thanks!


----------



## Tristan944

I’m getting a small area of PURPLE discoloration on the top right of my screen. Seems to only happen in 16x9. Anyone know what is going on?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

rustolemite said:


> Was curious if I was the only one that wasn't blown away by 4K disc. I use Dynamic with Eco Mode and Rec.2020 and SDR these settings for me make my Blurays look amazing. And also work on all my other non 4K content. I have tried using HDR but the picture is just too dark and with how close the projector is to my seating position I don't like using High mode.
> I recently just watched Dredd in 4K and tied the HDR but again too dark and but the picture still wasn't blowing me away like every one says it will.
> Right after watching that I put in 13 Hours on Bluray and the picture was amazing compared to Dredd.
> I know that watching 4K on an Oled TV can produce probably a much better picture than my 5040 can but it shouldn't that big of a difference. I will also be holding off on replacing my BR disc with 4K for awhile longer.




I just spent the last 4 hrs putzing around trying to get hdr to look somewhat acceptable and finally hit on a setting that looks great. I basically took the Harpervision digital cinema setting and applied it to the bright cinema color mode. I then adjusted color temperature a touch cooler to remove the bit of red push in the image and dropped gamma point 2 from -14 to -22. I just watched about 45 min of the last Jedi in 4K and I’ll be darned the image popped out of the screen. The scene where Rey trains with the lightsaber was dripping with color and the saber leapt out of the screen. I will say though Epson should really make this thing a lot easier to calibrate for the average user...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just spent the last 4 hrs putzing around trying to get hdr to look somewhat acceptable and finally hit on a setting that looks great. I basically took the Harpervision digital cinema setting and applied it to the bright cinema color mode. I then adjusted color temperature a touch cooler to remove the bit of red push in the image and dropped gamma point 2 from -14 to -22. I just watched about 45 min of the last Jedi in 4K and I’ll be darned the image popped out of the screen. The scene where Rey trains with the lightsaber was dripping with color and the saber leapt out of the screen. I will say though Epson should really make this thing a lot easier to calibrate for the average user...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Will give that a try, can you tell me what the power setting is for that?


----------



## ndabunka

WynsWrld98 said:


> JVC does frame interpolation (aka clear motion drive) with 4K signals: http://eu.jvc.com/microsite/eu/dla-x9000/feature01.html


Price That's like saying, Your $100K Jaguar F-Type SVR can do 0-to-60 in 3.5 seconds but the $2 MILLION Bugatti can do it in 2.5 seconds! LOL!

OK, I stand corrected... For more than TRIPLE the cost you can get frame interpolation in a 4K projector... better?


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> Price That's like saying, Your $100K Jaguar F-Type SVR can do 0-to-60 in 3.5 seconds but the $2 MILLION Bugatti can do it in 2.5 seconds! LOL!
> 
> OK, I stand corrected... For more than TRIPLE the cost you can get frame interpolation in a 4K projector... better?


The lower end JVC projectors also do frame interpolation with 4K.


----------



## ndabunka

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just purchased a 5040ube and am seriously lost when trying to calibrate this thing for HDR. I can not get it to look even remotely good no matter which settings I input. I tried epsons most recent suggestion of calibrating (to the best I can with an hd essentials disc) bright cinema mode for sdr and then boosting saturation to 55 with the hdr 1 signal. But the gamma in the picture is all off and adjustments with the silly graph epson provides is another world of frustrating. I know this is probably discussed at some point in here but I’m about 400 pages and 20 different settings in and can’t find anything that looks good to me. Can someone point me to some additional settings that might be worth trying? If not I am about to return this for an optoma uhz65 as my buddy has one and I find the hdr presentation on his projector to be far more pleasing (maybe due to optomas gamma settings for hdr?) then the red pushed mud I’m getting out of the epson. Thank you for any input guys.
> 
> FYI My screen is a 100” Cinegray 3d 1.2 gain alr screen and I have updated the projector to the 111 firmware as well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017
Post 7217 of THIS THREAD we are in now


----------



## ndabunka

WynsWrld98 said:


> The lower end JVC projectors also do frame interpolation with 4K.


Thanks for the .02 but it doesn't really matter as I was trying to be funny (emojis).
I DO enjoy my F-Type though. Maybe I need to take it for a spin rather than any further debate.


----------



## WynsWrld98

ndabunka said:


> Thanks for the .02 but it doesn't really matter as I was trying to be funny (emojis).
> I DO enjoy my F-Type though. Maybe I need to take it for a spin rather than any further debate.


Or wait for Epson to include it in the 5050/6050. I remember their 5/6 series of projectors that were 1080p with 3D initially didn't have frame interpolation for 3D (I believe this was the 5010/6010) then the successor included frame interpolation for 3D in the next release (e.g., 5020/6020). My crystal ball says the 5050/6050 will have frame interpolation for 4K and also an 18 GB HDMI chipset matching what the competing JVC projector offers.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

rustolemite said:


> Will give that a try, can you tell me what the power setting is for that?















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

OrcusVaruna said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes OrcusVaruna, I pretty much use the same settings, except I utilize Auto (Bright) for Dynamic Range and Medium Lamp, with f/w 1.11, instead of SDR. Of course I have a HDFury Linker between my Marantz SR7011 and Epson 6040, that may be the difference. However, I am uncertain if that is a factor in the equation.

Peace and blessings

Azeke


----------



## roland6465

[vent] I'm so mad. "Someone in the warehouse messed up", and now the replacement isn't shipping until today, with Monday delivery. Supposedly. I still haven't received shipping info from FedEx. I have been told by four people at Epson now that "they don't give refunds", but I filed an incident report, including my original receipt, so we'll see where that goes. They also refuse to make available the contents of my year-long log of complaints and replacements. When I mentioned the NC attorney general, she went into a canned response and said if I brought legal threats, our conversation was over. I made no threat whatsoever, I only asked how I could get the information to the AG. 

I am so done with Epson, I want to throw the projector and even the Epson printer down the gully out back.[/vent]

Pending spousal approval, I may have a new 6040UB for sale with accessories Monday night.


----------



## Uppsalaing

roland6465 said:


> [vent] I'm so mad. "Someone in the warehouse messed up", and now the replacement isn't shipping until today, with Monday delivery. Supposedly. I still haven't received shipping info from FedEx. I have been told by four people at Epson now that "they don't give refunds", but I filed an incident report, including my original receipt, so we'll see where that goes. They also refuse to make available the contents of my year-long log of complaints and replacements. When I mentioned the NC attorney general, she went into a canned response and said if I brought legal threats, our conversation was over. I made no threat whatsoever, I only asked how I could get the information to the AG.
> 
> I am so done with Epson, I want to throw the projector and even the Epson printer down the gully out back.[/vent]
> 
> Pending spousal approval, I may have a new 6040UB for sale with accessories Monday night.


That's pretty bad.

I hope you find a good alternative that suits your needs.


----------



## Sanjay

ndabunka said:


> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017
> Post 7217 of THIS THREAD we are in now


Surely those settings from April 2017, don't hold anymore after the December 2017 v1.11 firmware update. Or do they? Personally, I would think not.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Okay here’s some screenshots I color balanced and exposed the best I could to give everyone an idea of what kind of image im getting after about 12 hrs of tinkering with the hdr settings. But I’ll live with the constant settings changes for the quality of the image I’m pulling now. I would hope the next projector I buy 3-5 years down the road will have these issues resolved. 

As an aside this projector is ridiculously finicky with hdr. Unlike my Vizio tv where hdr looks pretty much excellent regardless of the source, this requires you to mess with the gamma, contrast, and brightness settings for each source. In essence what looks great for 4K Blu-ray, is way underexposed for Netflix, and is overexposed for gaming. Also, just got my linker yesterday and I must say it’s a magical little device, virtually no lag and allows me to game away with my Xbox one x in HDR which is probably the best thing to happen to gaming since hd graphics. 

SDR Regular Blu-Ray









HDR 4K Blu










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## knmlee

*Lens position for different sources*

Is is normal to have to change the lens position settings (mainly shift) for different sources? I'm having to do that. One set of positions for Directv, another for Oppo 203 4K blu-ray, another for AppleTV. I save them to a memory slot and recall when changing sources, but I've never had to do this with my previous projectors. Everything is routed through a Yamaha 2060 receiver. I have the 5040ube and am using the wireless connection.

Also, has anyone found discrete remote control codes for lens memory slots? It would be nice to automate the resetting of lens position when changing sources. I'm using a URC remote.

Thanks,


----------



## LumensLover

OrcusVaruna said:


> Okay here’s some screenshots I color balanced and exposed the best I could to give everyone an idea of what kind of image im getting after about 12 hrs of tinkering with the hdr settings. But I’ll live with the constant settings changes for the quality of the image I’m pulling now. I would hope the next projector I buy 3-5 years down the road will have these issues resolved.
> 
> As an aside this projector is ridiculously finicky with hdr. Unlike my Vizio tv where hdr looks pretty much excellent regardless of the source, this requires you to mess with the gamma, contrast, and brightness settings for each source. In essence what looks great for 4K Blu-ray, is way underexposed for Netflix, and is overexposed for gaming. Also, just got my linker yesterday and I must say it’s a magical little device, virtually no lag and allows me to game away with my Xbox one x in HDR which is probably the best thing to happen to gaming since hd graphics.
> 
> SDR Regular Blu-Ray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDR 4K Blu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Those HDR shots are gorgeous.


----------



## WynsWrld98

LumensLover said:


> Those HDR shots are gorgeous.


The 4K UHD pics are cropped much tighter than the Bluray pics so it really isn't a fair comparison, not sure why they were cropped differently if trying to give an even comparison.


----------



## bigbadbob

Newb question; Do I need the HDFury if I only watching movies on my 5040 run through a Denon 7200WA from Oppo 203?
TIA,
RG


----------



## OrcusVaruna

WynsWrld98 said:


> The 4K UHD pics are cropped much tighter than the Bluray pics so it really isn't a fair comparison, not sure why they were cropped differently if trying to give an even comparison.




They were cropped differently due to the color brightness blowing out the photos from my seating so when I took the hdr pics I had to get a few steps closer to the screen. I’ll try to retake them later at the same distance. But really only the light saber fight scene was giving me the issue the other two shots are from the same distance 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

LumensLover said:


> Those HDR shots are gorgeous.




Thanks! Once you hit upon some good settings this projector outputs a seriously awesome hdr picture. My alr screen really gives specular highlights some pop as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

bigbadbob said:


> Newb question; Do I need the HDFury if I only watching movies on my 5040 run through a Denon 7200WA from Oppo 203?
> TIA,
> RG




To my knowledge the linker is only necessary for converting 10bit hdr 60hz to 8bit hdr 60hz. I am using a linker with my Xbox one x so I can game in hdr as the 5040 will only accept 8bit hdr at 60hz 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

OrcusVaruna said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




It looks like you’re using Dave Harper’s settings for SDR bt2020, but he uses Dig Cinema. I see you’re using Bright Cinema which doesn’t take advantage of of the P3 filter. Just curious why? If it’s because Dig Cin isn’t bright enough have you tried normal HDR on Bright Cinema using Auto Bright with normal brightness & contrast settings?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

spirithockey79 said:


> It looks like you’re using Dave Harper’s settings for SDR bt2020, but he uses Dig Cinema. I see you’re using Bright Cinema which doesn’t take advantage of of the P3 filter. Just curious why? If it’s because Dig Cin isn’t bright enough have you tried normal HDR on Bright Cinema using Auto Bright with normal brightness & contrast settings?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I have actually already done that, the settings I posted earlier just got me started. I have been messing around with various settings for the past two days and the Star Wars pictures I posted earlier are actually completely different settings using the hdr1/auto bright dynamic range setting. Once I lock in those settings where I want them to be I’ll share them. Initially my struggle was trying to fit tuning this projector to the couple of clicks here and there I am used to. I have never had to set gamma points, hues, brightness, contrast, etc at their upper and lower limits to achieve the results I’m after. 

As for the color filter the projector is in my living room which unfortunately makes those modes too dim for my environment. I see the potential though when I put on say digital cinema. Almost makes me want to save up for a black diamond or dark star screen. I feel like the color filter would be really fun with one of those. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

OrcusVaruna said:


> I have actually already done that, the settings I posted earlier just got me started. I have been messing around with various settings for the past two days and the Star Wars pictures I posted earlier are actually completely different settings using the hdr1/auto bright dynamic range setting. Once I lock in those settings where I want them to be I’ll share them. Initially my struggle was trying to fit tuning this projector to the couple of clicks here and there I am used to. I have never had to set gamma points, hues, brightness, contrast, etc at their upper and lower limits to achieve the results I’m after.
> 
> As for the color filter the projector is in my living room which unfortunately makes those modes too dim for my environment. I see the potential though when I put on say digital cinema. Almost makes me want to save up for a black diamond or dark star screen. I feel like the color filter would be really fun with one of those.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Gotcha. I have presets for both Dig Cin and Bright Cin for HDR and go back and forth . I probably use the bright cinema more after Epson brightened up their settings with the Auto Bright option, and don’t really see much difference in the colors compared to Dig Cin with the filter.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Sanjay said:


> Surely those settings from April 2017, don't hold anymore after the December 2017 v1.11 firmware update. Or do they? Personally, I would think not.


All the settings hold as long as you put the dynamic range setting (signal --> advanced --> dynamic range) to Auto or HDR2. If you put this setting to Auto (Bright) or HDR1 then any HDR calibrations or settings will not hold. So if you like your settings, just set it to Auto and nothing will change. 

For those using HarperVision the update doesn't affect anything because it uses the SDR dynamic range setting and not the HDR settings.


----------



## ndabunka

Sanjay said:


> Surely those settings from April 2017, don't hold anymore after the December 2017 v1.11 firmware update. Or do they? Personally, I would think not.


What's this update you speak of? Perhaps it's time I search the forum as I am still running v1.05


----------



## OrcusVaruna

WynsWrld98 said:


> The 4K UHD pics are cropped much tighter than the Bluray pics so it really isn't a fair comparison, not sure why they were cropped differently if trying to give an even comparison.



I really can’t get a good shot of this scene without zooming In. The photo is coming out a bit dim and under saturated. 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tristan944

Where do you download the latest firmware from? I can't find it.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Tristan944 said:


> Where do you download the latest firmware from? I can't find it.


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## Tristan944

Dominic Chan said:


> Tristan944 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where do you download the latest firmware from? I can't find it.
> 
> 
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
Click to expand...

Thank you. Can't believe they made it so difficult to find.

I read somewhere that this update affects HDR. Someone said to use Auto Brightness. Where in the settings is this? I can't find it in the menu.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Tristan944 said:


> Thank you. Can't believe they made it so difficult to find.
> 
> I read somewhere that this update affects HDR. Someone said to use Auto Brightness. Where in the settings is this? I can't find it in the menu.




In the menu go to the signal tab and select dynamic range. Select auto bright and you will notice a stark lightening of the projectors gamma. You will have to adjust gamma point 2, brightness, and contrast to adjust the picture but it’s worth the tinkering. The method I found best is to set dark shadow detail with brightness, followed by lowering gamma point 2 to 1 click above where shadow detail begins to crush, then scale contrast back until you can see all white detail. 

Alternatively, here are the settings I have settled on with autobright for 4K Blu-ray, I am loving them so feel free to give them a shot. FYI I am using an ALR screen which applies a pretty strong red and green push to the image so you will likely have to mess with color temperature if you decide to give them a shot.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## buntcake72

OrcusVaruna said:


> In the menu go to the signal tab and select dynamic range. Select auto bright and you will notice a stark lightening of the projectors gamma. You will have to adjust gamma point 2, brightness, and contrast to adjust the picture but it’s worth the tinkering. The method I found best is to set dark shadow detail with brightness, followed by lowering gamma point 2 to 1 click above where shadow detail begins to crush, then scale contrast back until you can see all white detail.
> 
> Alternatively, here are the settings I have settled on with autobright for 4K Blu-ray, I am loving them so feel free to give them a shot. FYI I am using an ALR screen which applies a pretty strong red and green push to the image so you will likely have to mess with color temperature if you decide to give them a shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you post your Gamma Customized numbers, the graph doesn't really help. Great job!


----------



## rustolemite

Okay so can anybody tell me if that have experienced a green dot coming from the projector it's in the right corner close at the top on my screen. 
You can look in the lens and see a small green dot, anybody have any idea?
Projector is only 4 months old with about 1150 hours. 

Thanks


----------



## OrcusVaruna

buntcake72 said:


> Can you post your Gamma Customized numbers, the graph doesn't really help. Great job!




Thank you and here are the different settings I came up with 4K Blu, 4K 60hz HDR Gaming, HDR Netflix, and SDR Content. Let me know how they work for you! 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Eric_Connelly

I have a problem where in certain scenes, mostly darker ones skin tones are heavily red.

Most of the time it looks great but in scene's were the majority of the scene is dark the faces are heavily red shifted.

I haven't changed a setting in probably 10 months and just started to notice this. Content does not matter, BD, Netflix, Amazon, etc.


----------



## Azekecse

Eric_Connelly said:


> I have a problem where in certain scenes, mostly darker ones skin tones are heavily red.
> 
> Most of the time it looks great but in scene's were the majority of the scene is dark the faces are heavily red shifted.
> 
> I haven't changed a setting in probably 10 months and just started to notice this. Content does not matter, BD, Netflix, Amazon, etc.


^+1. Yes I have noticed that as well Eric C. I need to determine if it's related to the HDFURY Linker, F/W 1.11 or both. Thoughts anyone?

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## inspector

OrcusVaruna said:


> Thank you and here are the different settings I came up with 4K Blu, 4K 60hz HDR Gaming, HDR Netflix, and SDR Content. Let me know how they work for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



For the UHD and BD you're spot on with what I use, with just a few differences.


----------



## DireWolf08

OrcusVaruna said:


> Thank you and here are the different settings I came up with 4K Blu, 4K 60hz HDR Gaming, HDR Netflix, and SDR Content. Let me know how they work for you!
> 
> ...


Thank you for posting these. I have an ALR screen as well and just updated to v1.11 firmware. I tried the Harpervision Bright Cinema HDR settings on The Last Jedi UHD and they did NOT look right, even though they looked great last night on the GotG2 UHD Blu-Ray (on f/w v1.09). I think the firmware update might have changed the behavior of some settings. I will give these a go later, thanks again for sharing? 

Out of curiosity, did you notice any film grain/mpeg noise on The Last Jedi UHD? Might just have been settings change ... 

ETA: I did 'recalibrate' (using the xbox calibration patterns in the settings) and then set up HDR and it looked significantly better. Even left gamma at 0, which seems to have previously been unheard of for HDR.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DireWolf08 said:


> Thank you for posting these. I have an ALR screen as well and just updated to v1.11 firmware. I tried the Harpervision Bright Cinema HDR settings on The Last Jedi UHD and they did NOT look right, even though they looked great last night on the GotG2 UHD Blu-Ray (on f/w v1.09). I think the firmware update might have changed the behavior of some settings. I will give these a go later, thanks again for sharing?
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, did you notice any film grain/mpeg noise on The Last Jedi UHD? Might just have been settings change ...
> 
> 
> 
> ETA: I did 'recalibrate' (using the xbox calibration patterns in the settings) and then set up HDR and it looked significantly better. Even left gamma at 0, which seems to have previously been unheard of for HDR.




The last Jedi is just a very grainy and noisy movie. I think it is inherent to Johnson’s stylized post production image as the uhd Blu-ray presentation mimics the Dolby Cinema presentation of the movie I saw theatrically.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

OrcusVaruna said:


> The last Jedi is just a very grainy and noisy movie. I think it is inherent to Johnson’s stylized post production image as the uhd Blu-ray presentation mimics the Dolby Cinema presentation of the movie I saw theatrically.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Force awakens and The Last Jedi look very grainy with hazy looking dark scenes in my opinion. I don't even bother playing them on my Epson 5040 at all. I also turned off 4K enhancement on my 5040. It adds noise to the image and makes it appear overly processed.


----------



## Lesmor

DireWolf08 said:


> Thank you for posting these. I have an ALR screen as well and just updated to v1.11 firmware. I tried the Harpervision Bright Cinema HDR settings on The Last Jedi UHD and they did NOT look right, even though they looked great last night on the GotG2 UHD Blu-Ray (on f/w v1.09). I think the firmware update might have changed the behavior of some settings. I will give these a go later, thanks again for sharing?
> 
> Out of curiosity, did you notice any film grain/mpeg noise on The Last Jedi UHD? Might just have been settings change ...
> 
> ETA: I did 'recalibrate' (using the xbox calibration patterns in the settings) and then set up HDR and it looked significantly better. Even left gamma at 0, which seems to have previously been unheard of for HDR.


Harpervision doesn't use Bright Cinema


----------



## DireWolf08

Lesmor said:


> Harpervision doesn't use Bright Cinema


According to the compilation spreadsheet posted here, the "Dave Harper Bright Cinema HDR" settings do. You're right, not technically "Harpervision", but they were settings created by Mr. Harper.


----------



## Spyderturbo007

OrcusVaruna said:


> Thank you and here are the different settings I came up with 4K Blu, 4K 60hz HDR Gaming, HDR Netflix, and SDR Content. Let me know how they work for you!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm going to ask the dumb question of the day, but can you set them, name them something and then save them? I see that you're using Bright Cinema for bot Xbox and UltraHD. Can they be saved as two different sets of settings? I thought that Bright Cinema was one set of settings and you had to use something else like Cinema for another set of settings.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

If you click the memory button on the remote it takes you to a place in the settings menu where you can save up to 10 presets. Also the Xbox settings only apply if your using a HDFury Linker to play games in 4K 8bit HDR. If you dont have a linker I would use regular SDR settings 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ndabunka

rustolemite said:


> Okay so can anybody tell me if that have experienced a green dot coming from the projector it's in the right corner close at the top on my screen.
> You can look in the lens and see a small green dot, anybody have any idea?
> Projector is only 4 months old with about 1150 hours.
> 
> Thanks


Although I never had such an issue it does sounds very similar to what others had referenced as a dust particle in other post so try searching this forum for that reference. Did you buy the projector new and are just now seeing it or did you buy it off someone used (eBay, etc)? If you bought new, contact EPSON for potential actions.


----------



## rustolemite

ndabunka said:


> Although I never had such an issue it does sounds very similar to what others had referenced as a dust particle in other post so try searching this forum for that reference. Did you buy the projector new and are just now seeing it or did you buy it off someone used (eBay, etc)? If you bought new, contact EPSON for potential actions.


Bought brand new from Crutchfield back in Dec 2017, will look at other posts.


----------



## nwbearcat21

The settings in here have been great. I haven't seen one for just regular tv and sports watching though. What do you guys use for that? I have directv and watch alot of sport and also just tv on there.


----------



## timmyotule

Eric_Connelly said:


> I have a problem where in certain scenes, mostly darker ones skin tones are heavily red.
> 
> Most of the time it looks great but in scene's were the majority of the scene is dark the faces are heavily red shifted.
> 
> I haven't changed a setting in probably 10 months and just started to notice this. Content does not matter, BD, Netflix, Amazon, etc.


Are you using the same source for all the content? Do you have a Samsung K8500 (or KM85C). I've read that it has issues with dark red scenes.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

nwbearcat21 said:


> The settings in here have been great. I haven't seen one for just regular tv and sports watching though. What do you guys use for that? I have directv and watch alot of sport and also just tv on there.




I use my regular sdr settings and apply frame interpolation as I see fit when watching sports 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

Well, wish me luck... I got my new replacement 6040 mounted, picture fit to my screen, and loaded with Oledurt's digital cinema HDR settings and an eyeball setup for SDR. It fired up twice today, so I'm guessing it has 198 left on it's counter.

I had the last hour of Wild Wild Country to watch, so I used the new footage to tweak my SDR settings, then popped in The Last Jedi, and I don't think Oledurt's settings need tweaking yet.

I missed out on the Masters, but this weekend we're having family over for my wife's birthday, including her younger brother, who used to work for FotoKem, and got a credit in TLJ. Hopefully his little boy will settle down and we can play in the theater for a while.

As much as I hate the last few months of dealing with Epson, damned if it doesn't put out a great picture.


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Thank you and here are the different settings I came up with 4K Blu, 4K 60hz HDR Gaming, HDR Netflix, and SDR Content. Let me know how they work for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Colors look good but contrast clips crazy early? I turned it to zero ave it barely hit 400nits? This is at 24









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Colors look good but contrast clips crazy early? I turned it to zero ave it barely hit 400nits? This is at 24
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I had epson super white off because with it on "HDMI video range" is grayed out? Your settings say auto but with super white on that should be grayed out.

Will look at contrast again, I am sure that was the issue

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> I had epson super white off because with it on "HDMI video range" is grayed out? Your settings say auto but with super white on that should be grayed out.
> 
> Will look at contrast again, I am sure that was the issue
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Still clips early but somehow looks awesome on 4K gaming with no loss of detail in the clouds, whites, ect. Maybe its supposed to clip early like that. Detail is great.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## achanonier

It should be clipping in games... a PS4 with such settinsg would clip like hell as with most of the UHD Blu Ray...
Thoses settings are heaviliy eye-balled...

HDR auto birght by itselg already clips a lot, you need either to turn contsrat sdown or use Epson Super White ON to reduce it...
Also Brightness up to 80 with Bright Cinema shoudl lead to grey blacks ans also helps clippings whites even more...

It may look good on a specific movie or game but you can't get any predictivre results... That's why he has so many different settings...

I use just one setting for gaming netflix uhd blu rays, itunes, plex, infuse, amazon, you name it...

Best results are either : 
Harpervision HDR on SDR (you can tweak a bit the gamma curve and brightness/contrast according to your screen / env) or Oledurt's 
Or settings based on HDR Auto Bright, contrast lowered around 30-35 (to clip whites arround 1000 nits) brightness at 50 and a custom gamma curve to boost a bit the global brightness depending on your screen / env

I personnaly use a setting based on Harper Vision HDR on SDR but with a slighly modified gamma curve, eco mode, natural mode (it's plenty bright and dead silent).
I looks great for everything I watched so far
- Games (Uncharted 4 and TLOU)
- Movies (BR 2049, The revenant, Mad Max, Deapool, GIS... )
- Netflix Series : Altered Carbon, Stranger Things and a lot more

I've not felt the need to change any settings for months...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Well just went to go turn on my projector and nothing. No status lights, not powering up, nothing at all. If I unplug and plug it back in the power light blinks a few times and then nothing. Any idea what this issue is? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

achanonier said:


> It should be clipping in games... a PS4 with such settinsg would clip like hell as with most of the UHD Blu Ray...
> 
> Thoses settings are heaviliy eye-balled...
> 
> 
> 
> HDR auto birght by itselg already clips a lot, you need either to turn contsrat sdown or use Epson Super White ON to reduce it...
> 
> Also Brightness up to 80 with Bright Cinema shoudl lead to grey blacks ans also helps clippings whites even more...
> 
> 
> 
> It may look good on a specific movie or game but you can't get any predictivre results... That's why he has so many different settings...
> 
> 
> 
> I use just one setting for gaming netflix uhd blu rays, itunes, plex, infuse, amazon, you name it...
> 
> 
> 
> Best results are either :
> 
> Harpervision HDR on SDR (you can tweak a bit the gamma curve and brightness/contrast according to your screen / env) or Oledurt's
> 
> Or settings based on HDR Auto Bright, contrast lowered around 30-35 (to clip whites arround 1000 nits) brightness at 50 and a custom gamma curve to boost a bit the global brightness depending on your screen / env
> 
> 
> 
> I personnaly use a setting based on Harper Vision HDR on SDR but with a slighly modified gamma curve, eco mode, natural mode (it's plenty bright and dead silent).
> 
> I looks great for everything I watched so far
> 
> - Games (Uncharted 4 and TLOU)
> 
> - Movies (BR 2049, The revenant, Mad Max, Deapool, GIS... )
> 
> - Netflix Series : Altered Carbon, Stranger Things and a lot more
> 
> 
> 
> I've not felt the need to change any settings for months...




Yes I’m no professional at all just having fun posting different settings I’m using with my new toy lol. I will give your settings a try 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## achanonier

Yes me too 
And you're welcome to do so so that we can discuss and improve our settings !


----------



## swyda038

OrcusVaruna said:


> Well just went to go turn on my projector and nothing. No status lights, not powering up, nothing at all. If I unplug and plug it back in the power light blinks a few times and then nothing. Any idea what this issue is?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Try unplugging it, but waiting a while to plug it back in. Same thing happened to me and for some reason when I waited like 20-30 minutes to plug it back in, everything worked fine and no problems after that (this was about 9 months ago).


----------



## robc1976

achanonier said:


> It should be clipping in games... a PS4 with such settinsg would clip like hell as with most of the UHD Blu Ray...
> Thoses settings are heaviliy eye-balled...
> 
> HDR auto birght by itselg already clips a lot, you need either to turn contsrat sdown or use Epson Super White ON to reduce it...
> Also Brightness up to 80 with Bright Cinema shoudl lead to grey blacks ans also helps clippings whites even more...
> 
> It may look good on a specific movie or game but you can't get any predictivre results... That's why he has so many different settings...
> 
> I use just one setting for gaming netflix uhd blu rays, itunes, plex, infuse, amazon, you name it...
> 
> Best results are either :
> Harpervision HDR on SDR (you can tweak a bit the gamma curve and brightness/contrast according to your screen / env) or Oledurt's
> Or settings based on HDR Auto Bright, contrast lowered around 30-35 (to clip whites arround 1000 nits) brightness at 50 and a custom gamma curve to boost a bit the global brightness depending on your screen / env
> 
> I personnaly use a setting based on Harper Vision HDR on SDR but with a slighly modified gamma curve, eco mode, natural mode (it's plenty bright and dead silent).
> I looks great for everything I watched so far
> - Games (Uncharted 4 and TLOU)
> - Movies (BR 2049, The revenant, Mad Max, Deapool, GIS... )
> - Netflix Series : Altered Carbon, Stranger Things and a lot more
> 
> I've not felt the need to change any settings for months...


Mine was clipping via maniscolias test pattern. Just a HDR signal didn't test it in game. I have super white on and it still clips early. If I turn down contrast down it only slight helps, but does still look good in game. Going to tweak it more tonight.

Yep, for movies I use a tweaked harpervision.

For games it was harpervision also, but these new settings look pretty damn good.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

achanonier said:


> It should be clipping in games... a PS4 with such settinsg would clip like hell as with most of the UHD Blu Ray...
> Thoses settings are heaviliy eye-balled...
> 
> HDR auto birght by itselg already clips a lot, you need either to turn contsrat sdown or use Epson Super White ON to reduce it...
> Also Brightness up to 80 with Bright Cinema shoudl lead to grey blacks ans also helps clippings whites even more...
> 
> It may look good on a specific movie or game but you can't get any predictivre results... That's why he has so many different settings...
> 
> I use just one setting for gaming netflix uhd blu rays, itunes, plex, infuse, amazon, you name it...
> 
> Best results are either :
> Harpervision HDR on SDR (you can tweak a bit the gamma curve and brightness/contrast according to your screen / env) or Oledurt's
> Or settings based on HDR Auto Bright, contrast lowered around 30-35 (to clip whites arround 1000 nits) brightness at 50 and a custom gamma curve to boost a bit the global brightness depending on your screen / env
> 
> I personnaly use a setting based on Harper Vision HDR on SDR but with a slighly modified gamma curve, eco mode, natural mode (it's plenty bright and dead silent).
> I looks great for everything I watched so far
> - Games (Uncharted 4 and TLOU)
> - Movies (BR 2049, The revenant, Mad Max, Deapool, GIS... )
> - Netflix Series : Altered Carbon, Stranger Things and a lot more
> 
> I've not felt the need to change any settings for months...


Harper vision, Oledurt HDR doesn't clip until 1000nits VIA test Patten, I was thinking that is what most HDR settings clip at so it surprised me lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Well just went to go turn on my projector and nothing. No status lights, not powering up, nothing at all. If I unplug and plug it back in the power light blinks a few times and then nothing. Any idea what this issue is?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Bad power supply, had 3 of them do it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes I’m no professional at all just having fun posting different settings I’m using with my new toy lol. I will give your settings a try
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your game settings I really think are better than Harper vision, nice ave bright, good shadow detail and great colors.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

robc1976 said:


> OrcusVaruna said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well just went to go turn on my projector and nothing. No status lights, not powering up, nothing at all. If I unplug and plug it back in the power light blinks a few times and then nothing. Any idea what this issue is?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Bad power supply, had 3 of them do it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ditto. Two for me.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

roland6465 said:


> Ditto. Two for me.




Man that’s frustrating, I may look into buying the extended warranty if that’s the case. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

OrcusVaruna said:


> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ditto. Two for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man that’s frustrating, I may look into buying the extended warranty if that’s the case.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Look at a 3rd party warranty that will replace a defective unit with new. Epson’s “VIP service” will send refurb after refurb until you have to call Epson directly and complain.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Well getting a new one (supposedly not a refurb) overnighted will be here tomorrow... Still think it’s absurd for a $3000 projector to have a power supply issue. At this price it should use commercial electrical components.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> Harper vision, Oledurt HDR doesn't clip until 1000nits VIA test Patten, I was thinking that is what most HDR settings clip at so it surprised me lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


It should be noted that a lot of HDR content (maybe half?) is mastered on Dolby Pulsar monitors that clip at 4000 nits. Essentially all Netflix HDR content is mastered at 4000 nits. So if your HDR setting is clipping at 1000 you will be clipping highlights.


----------



## LumensLover

OrcusVaruna said:


> Well getting a new one (supposedly not a refurb) overnighted will be here tomorrow... Still think it’s absurd for a $3000 projector to have a power supply issue. At this price it should use commercial electrical components.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I concur.


----------



## avtvhdbass

roland6465 said:


> [vent] I'm so mad. "Someone in the warehouse messed up", and now the replacement isn't shipping until today, with Monday delivery. Supposedly. I still haven't received shipping info from FedEx. I have been told by four people at Epson now that "they don't give refunds", but I filed an incident report, including my original receipt, so we'll see where that goes. They also refuse to make available the contents of my year-long log of complaints and replacements. When I mentioned the NC attorney general, she went into a canned response and said if I brought legal threats, our conversation was over. I made no threat whatsoever, I only asked how I could get the information to the AG.
> 
> I am so done with Epson, I want to throw the projector and even the Epson printer down the gully out back.[/vent]
> 
> Pending spousal approval, I may have a new 6040UB for sale with accessories Monday night.


That's awful. Hope you get a new projector soon


----------



## avtvhdbass

knmlee said:


> Is is normal to have to change the lens position settings (mainly shift) for different sources? I'm having to do that. One set of positions for Directv, another for Oppo 203 4K blu-ray, another for AppleTV. I save them to a memory slot and recall when changing sources, but I've never had to do this with my previous projectors. Everything is routed through a Yamaha 2060 receiver. I have the 5040ube and am using the wireless connection.
> 
> Also, has anyone found discrete remote control codes for lens memory slots? It would be nice to automate the resetting of lens position when changing sources. I'm using a URC remote.
> 
> Thanks,


for me no issues with lens changing position with changing sources.

I have a different issue which happens once a while!, When I start the projector the lens position goes a bit off. Every time I switch on the PJ I do a quick walk around the screen to make sure the image has not shifted out!.

This is an interesting read way back in thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-140.html#post48985465


----------



## mraub

I have a 5040 coming tomorrow. A recent upgrade to a larger acoustically transparent screen has created the need for more photons and I think the 5040 should provide more than enough of those.


I downloaded the manual from Epson's website and have also read a number of detailed reviews of this projector. While the Epson manual does tell you what options the menu provides, it lacks a lot of detail on what all those options actually do and how they interact with each other. Some of the detailed reviews provide more information, but I wonder if anywhere in this lengthy thread (or elsewhere) there is a unified set-up and installation guide that brings all the information together in one place. 


I'm sure I will have more questions once the 5040 arrives. I really appreciate the recent post with suggested settings.


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> It should be noted that a lot of HDR content (maybe half?) is mastered on Dolby Pulsar monitors that clip at 4000 nits. Essentially all Netflix HDR content is mastered at 4000 nits. So if your HDR setting is clipping at 1000 you will be clipping highlights.


Harper vision with contrast maxed still clips around 1,000 nits.

Oledurt settings clip at 1200

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> Harper vision with contrast maxed still clips around 1,000 nits.
> 
> Oledurt settings clip at 1200
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Understood. That's one reason I don't use those settings. I can point to specific scenes that show content is getting clipped.


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> Understood. That's one reason I don't use those settings. I can point to specific scenes that show content is getting clipped.


I thought I saw that to but thought I was crazy, guess I am not. 

Would you mind sharing your settings? 

I am guessing in a 4K game it doesn't matter as they clip early like stated above, but in movies I am sure its big

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> I thought I saw that to but thought I was crazy, guess I am not.
> 
> Would you mind sharing your settings?
> 
> I am guessing in a 4K game it doesn't matter as they clip early like stated above, but in movies I am sure its big
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I went down the path of buying a meter for a couple hundred bucks and doing my own calibration. I've been very happy with the results for both SDR and HDR. The results end up much better than copying anyone's settings in my case. And it can actually be fun to learn about. 

There is a dedicated thread that covers the details. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html


----------



## avtvhdbass

jwhn said:


> I went down the path of buying a meter for a couple hundred bucks and doing my own calibration. I've been very happy with the results for both SDR and HDR. The results end up much better than copying anyone's settings in my case. And it can actually be fun to learn about.
> 
> There is a dedicated thread that covers the details.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html


Please can you let me know what meter you use, thank you.


----------



## jwhn

avtvhdbass said:


> Please can you let me know what meter you use, thank you.




This is the meter I am using. And then I use HCFR calibration software which is "donation-ware". There is a learning curve but lots of support on these forums. 



https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW


----------



## achanonier

robc1976 said:


> Harper vision with contrast maxed still clips around 1,000 nits.
> 
> Oledurt settings clip at 1200
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Clipping around 1000 1200 nits is a good compromise, if you want to clipp at 4000 ou 10000 nits, your image is going to be wwayyyy to dark.
HDR and projection is just a matter of compromises.
My settings clipp around 1200 nits and I really have a hard time finding a scene that clipps


----------



## Uppsalaing

jwhn said:


> This is the meter I am using. And then I use HCFR calibration software which is "donation-ware". There is a learning curve but lots of support on these forums.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW


I have that same model colourmetre as I use it to calibrate my displays for my photography.

Do you know of any good software or way to use it to calibrate _SDR_ on the Epson Projector for movies? I have only calibrated it using the various discs (Spears & Munsil, DVE) by eye, but would like to use the colormeter if possible.


----------



## robc1976

achanonier said:


> Clipping around 1000 1200 nits is a good compromise, if you want to clipp at 4000 ou 10000 nits, your image is going to be wwayyyy to dark.
> HDR and projection is just a matter of compromises.
> My settings clipp around 1200 nits and I really have a hard time finding a scene that clipps


Agreed, I use Harper vision for movies and it clips around 1100 and looks awesome. The settings attached I tried above clip really early but look awesome on 4K gaming, really bright, detailed picture and no loss in whites. Don't understand it.









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## nwbearcat21

So for some reason no matter what I have source coming in frame interpolation is always grayed out and I can't select it. Any thoughts as to why?


----------



## jwhn

Uppsalaing said:


> I have that same model colourmetre as I use it to calibrate my displays for my photography.
> 
> Do you know of any good software or way to use it to calibrate _SDR_ on the Epson Projector for movies? I have only calibrated it using the various discs (Spears & Munsil, DVE) by eye, but would like to use the colormeter if possible.



HCFR. There is a dedicated thread under Display Calibration.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> Agreed, I use Harper vision for movies and it clips around 1100 and looks awesome. The settings attached I tried above clip really early but look awesome on 4K gaming, really bright, detailed picture and no loss in whites. Don't understand it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



One reason those settings will clip early is the use of Auto (Bright). I assume you have the 1.11 Firmware. 

That setting essentially hard clips at around 65% of the greyscale (for reference, 75% is ~ 1000 nits) no matter what you do to the settings. I have verified this with a meter. It's as if Epson just decided to crank up the brightness on that setting to stop the complaints. But they have taken the ability to shape any roll off out of the users hands. 

If you use Auto instead you should experience less clipping. Note that all of the popular settings on this thread are based on Auto and not Auto(bright) because the latest version of auto(bright) using the 1.11 FW didn't exist at the time. And the previous Auto(bright) is now Auto.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

achanonier said:


> Clipping around 1000 1200 nits is a good compromise, if you want to clipp at 4000 ou 10000 nits, your image is going to be wwayyyy to dark.
> 
> HDR and projection is just a matter of compromises.
> 
> My settings clipp around 1200 nits and I really have a hard time finding a scene that clipps



Clipping at 4000 is not too dark at all if the calibration is done correctly. I use both a 1000 and 4000 nit calibration. If you have Netflix I can suggest a specific scene to look at to show where content gets clipped when using a 1000 nit calibration. 

It's not so bad as to be distracting. It's essentially scenes that have very bright lights or sun or something like that. With the 1000 nit setting some detail gets lost.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtvhdbass

jwhn said:


> This is the meter I am using. And then I use HCFR calibration software which is "donation-ware". There is a learning curve but lots of support on these forums.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Display-Pro-Display-Calibration/dp/B0055MBQOW



Thank you


----------



## ClerkDante

ApoleTV, Infuse and 3D?

This is my first 3D capable projector. How are folks getting content to it? I’ve taken to placing my entire library on a NAS and am currently without a Blu-ray player. Can I rip a 3D Blu-ray (I’ve got a few that came with a 3D disc) and pump it through Infuse?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

I just got my replacement and when I tossed on a movie to set it up quick it’s adding this disgusting red tint in dark scenes that my last one did not. Does this mean my replacement is defective as well? If so I’m gonna be pissed that epson sent me a defective projector...










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just got my replacement and when I tossed on a movie to set it up quick it’s adding this disgusting red tint in dark scenes that my last one did not. Does this mean my replacement is defective as well? If so I’m gonna be pissed that epson sent me a defective projector...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Are you using the auto bright setting?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

LumensLover said:


> Are you using the auto bright setting?




Yes 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tristan944

I'd like to program the projector with many of the different aspect ratios. 

Right now I just program the projector as I encounter different aspect ratios on Blu-rays.

What is the best way to view different aspect ratios? Is there a video disc or something else that displays all the different aspect ratios so I can display them and save them?


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just got my replacement and when I tossed on a movie to set it up quick it’s adding this disgusting red tint in dark scenes that my last one did not. Does this mean my replacement is defective as well? If so I’m gonna be pissed that epson sent me a defective projector...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



You may be able to correct it. Try turning down red in the offset settings.

You can also try adjusting using color uniformity settings. Select ALL and it will adjust the whole panel.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jwhn said:


> You may be able to correct it. Try turning down red in the offset settings.
> 
> You can also try adjusting using color uniformity settings. Select ALL and it will adjust the whole panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thank you dropping the Red offset down to 47 and doing a point by point panel alignment fixed the issue to where it doesn’t happen until below black. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> Thank you dropping the Red offset down to 47 and doing a point by point panel alignment fixed the issue to where it doesn’t happen until below black.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

nwbearcat21 said:


> So for some reason no matter what I have source coming in frame interpolation is always grayed out and I can't select it. Any thoughts as to why?


Frame Interpolation not supported if 4K eShift turned on.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jwhn said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Well just turned it on this morning and now it’s adding these odd color markings to bright areas...










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

Tristan944 said:


> I'd like to program the projector with many of the different aspect ratios.
> 
> Right now I just program the projector as I encounter different aspect ratios on Blu-rays.
> 
> What is the best way to view different aspect ratios? Is there a video disc or something else that displays all the different aspect ratios so I can display them and save them?


if you press the 'Pattern' button on the remote and choose the first option you should get frame lines for 16:9 and 2.40:1 ratios.

The 'Spears & Munsil' calibration disc has a section with all of the common ratios.

But you can just play a 1.85:1 ratio movie and set up the frame lines for that and it will work for all other 1.85:1 movies.

I have Lens1 set to 2.35:1 and Lens2 set to 1.85:1 as they are the most common ratios. the rest I've saved in the other memory slots....


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> Well just turned it on this morning and now it’s adding these odd color markings to bright areas...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Strange. If you use the default setting across the board, do you still see the color markings?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## titanle

Hi guys 

Would you recommend buying this projector for $3200 CAD? I just bought the HC4000 from Costco for $2400 CAD but I’m thinking of getting this one instead. 

Or is that too much for the 5040


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> You may be able to correct it. Try turning down red in the offset settings.
> 
> You can also try adjusting using color uniformity settings. Select ALL and it will adjust the whole panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's something I have never understood how to mess with, how do you adjust color uniformity? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## timmyotule

titanle said:


> Hi guys
> 
> Would you recommend buying this projector for $3200 CAD? I just bought the HC4000 from Costco for $2400 CAD but I’m thinking of getting this one instead.
> 
> Or is that too much for the 5040


Do you have ambient light in your room? That's quite an increase to step up to the 5040UB. If there is ambient light it's definitely not worth it. I went with the 5040UB for my basement (total light control) room but the difference was only $500 CAD and I went back and forth a bit between the two. The sales rep I talked to at Projector People recommended just getting the HC4000.


----------



## titanle

I would say the room is about 90% light controlled. Everything is painted dark, blackout curtains and dark carpet and furniture. When it’s super sunny outside a little light does come in from around the curtains. Other than that it’s pretty good. I was having a hard time justifying the $800 difference between the two. Are the black levels really that noticeable ?


----------



## mraub

Just set up a 5040 last night using the Blu-ray settings posted a few pages back. The custom gamma seemed a bit extreme but I watched _Molly's Game _ and color and contrast looked spot on. A couple of quick questions:


1. Should I also adjust brightness and contrast with my usual calibration disc?


2. Will the settings I made persist unless I change them or reset the projector?


3. I just got a cheap light meter that measures Lux and Foot candles. What should I be aiming for on peak white levels?


Compared to the JVC RS46 it is replacing, the 5040 is noticeably brighter and sharper. I zoom to fill a 2.35 screen so I do lose some pixels and the 4K enhancement does seem to help with sharpness. On images, both black level and black detail seem perfectly satisfactory to me, if perhaps not quite as good as the JVC. I do notice the screen doesn't get quite as black on fades between scenes, but this is of little practical importance.


I think I am going to like this projector. I do wish it had a black case, but that wasn't worth $1000 to me.


Thanks.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

titanle said:


> Hi guys
> 
> Would you recommend buying this projector for $3200 CAD? I just bought the HC4000 from Costco for $2400 CAD but I’m thinking of getting this one instead.
> 
> Or is that too much for the 5040




If you have any ambient light or less then ideal room then no. I could barely tell the difference when I compared isf calibrated samples heavily side by side at a local home theater installer. The only reason I purchased the UBe over the 4000 was for the wireless 4K transmitter. They retail for $500 for a WiHD one and at that point the difference between the two was around a $100 at the time I bought it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## titanle

I think I will go back to the retailer and see if they can bring the price down, otherwise I may as well stay with the 4000 if there’s barely any difference


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> That's something I have never understood how to mess with, how do you adjust color uniformity?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


This feature is designed to be used to correct inconsistencies across the panel at different levels of luminance. For example, if one side of the screen has a red tint you can adjust the left side to reduce the red tint. It also enables you to select the entire panel to adjust the whole screen.


----------



## misshypez

*lg up875*

not getting a hdr signal under pj info while watching the last jedi or fifth element in 4k uhd. anyone have any advice?


----------



## jwhn

misshypez said:


> not getting a hdr signal under pj info while watching the last jedi or fifth element in 4k uhd. anyone have any advice?


More info about your set up would help troubleshoot. Do other disks work and just these two don't? Have you checked your cables? You just have to eliminate each component in your signal chain until you isolate the issue.


----------



## misshypez

only 2 movies i have atm are the last jedi and the fifth element 4k uhd im running it directly from the 5040 ub to blu ray player i have 2 cables both premium certified. starting to think the blu ray player wont do it or isn't compatible some how it was super cheap. prolly cheapest uhd blu ray player in the space


----------



## Uppsalaing

misshypez said:


> only 2 movies i have atm are the last jedi and the fifth element 4k uhd im running it directly from the 5040 ub to blu ray player i have 2 cables both premium certified. starting to think the blu ray player wont do it or isn't compatible some how it was super cheap. prolly cheapest uhd blu ray player in the space


Have you updated the firmware on the player? This might be worth doing if it has that option...


----------



## misshypez

updated the up875 software dont see firmware update anywhere still not showing hdr only sdr.


----------



## jwhn

misshypez said:


> updated the up875 software dont see firmware update anywhere still not showing hdr only sdr.




Make sure you are using the HDM1 1 port on the 5040UB and not HDMI 2.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

jwhn said:


> Make sure you are using the HDM1 1 port on the 5040UB and not HDMI 2.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I bet that was it. Almost got me when I hung my replacement the other day.


----------



## Steven Round

mase1981 said:


> Ah. Gotcha. Then leave early lol. Tell the boss this is clearly more important  hope this works for u, if not I'm sure we can fix it


Hi, not sure if you can help me on this. I have a Yamaha a870 hdmi 1 out - Linker - 9300 hdmi 1. It worked fine when I first had it and came ready setup to just plug in and go. It stopped all of a sudden and I just get a no signal message displayed on the screen. I have updated firmware to .25 and done a reset in the gui and applied and the settings again from scratch as per posts on previous pages on this forum but just can't get it to pick up a signal. If I plug the hdmi cable direct to amp and ignore the linker it is fine and I know the other hdmi cable is fully compliant to work as it worked previously
I have also gone into advanced settings on the amp and made sure hmdi is set to 1. I get the solid green status on the linker as well to say it is receiving a connection.
I have also been into video settings on the amp and tried hdmi direct and processing and also tried hdmi control off but still no joy.

Have to say I have had so many issues with this linker from day one and I have put it to one side until I saw that .25 improves speed of connection but I just can't get it to send a signal.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Azekecse

Check you side buttons, sometimes you can inadvertently move the toggle switches to an incorrect position. Also, you should refresh the Linker after you install the updated f/w. It took me awhile to figure things out once I upgraded the Linker f/w. I also ended up purchasing the Linker Bluetooth h/w to make things easier. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Steven Round

Azekecse said:


> Check you side buttons, sometimes you can inadvertently move the toggle switches to an incorrect position. Also, you should refresh the Linker after you install the updated f/w. It took me awhile to figure things out once I upgraded the Linker f/w. I also ended up purchasing the Linker Bluetooth h/w to make things easier. Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Thanks for the response, how do you refresh the linker? I just power it off and back on again.
As for the sliders what should they be on edid=custom, scale not sure about really but currently on upscaling mode.

Sorry bit of a nube to all this and guess when we all purchased this projector it would all be singing and dancing but then you have to buy more equipment to get the best out of it.


----------



## Steven Round

Steven Round said:


> Thanks for the response, how do you refresh the linker? I just power it off and back on again.
> As for the sliders what should they be on edid=custom, scale not sure about really but currently on upscaling mode.
> 
> Sorry bit of a nube to all this and guess when we all purchased this projector it would all be singing and dancing but then you have to buy more equipment to get the best out of it.


Sorry both sliders are in the middle.So scaling set in the middle (thru) Edid custom using 4k60-444 600mhz hdr bt.2020 all sound
tried the reset option in config as well but still no signal.


----------



## Mr.G

Steven Round said:


> Sorry both sliders are in the middle.So scaling set in the middle (thru) Edid custom using 4k60-444 600mhz hdr bt.2020 all sound
> tried the reset option in config as well but still no signal.


Not to sideline your discussion here but HDFury Linker has its own thread at AVS Forum and an HDFury representative frequently advises owners there.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2905929-hdfury-linker-owners-thread.html


----------



## misshypez

using hdmi 1 port... i know thats the 4k one. still thinking its the blu ray player. hard to believe nobody has tried this up875 cuz of how cheap it was. can i get a list of ones that 100% are compatible and work? dont know if i wanna spend the 500 for oppo but i will if i have too.


----------



## roland6465

misshypez said:


> using hdmi 1 port... i know thats the 4k one. still thinking its the blu ray player. hard to believe nobody has tried this up875 cuz of how cheap it was. can i get a list of ones that 100% are compatible and work? dont know if i wanna spend the 500 for oppo but i will if i have too.


Without looking at your player's manual, go through the player's settings and make sure the applicable choices are set properly. Usually, "auto" is your friend. You can also force 2160p from the player, and let the projector see it as a 4K SDR signal.

Also, most of us here aren't into home theater for "cheap" components. I'd bet that of the 5040/6040 owners, over half have 300% or more invested into their audio and sources than their projector. That's why there's little talk about that unit on here. There may be a thread in the blu-ray player forum for that particular model.


----------



## gene4ht

misshypez said:


> hard to believe nobody has tried this up875 cuz of how cheap it was... dont know if i wanna spend the 500 for oppo but i will if i have too.





roland6465 said:


> Also, most of us here aren't into home theater for "cheap" components. I'd bet that of the 5040/6040 owners, over half have 300% or more invested into their audio and sources than their projector. That's why there's little talk about that unit on here. There may be a thread in the blu-ray player forum for that particular model.


I would have to agree with roland’s comments. Most serious enthusiasts strive to minimally establish equivalent quality and performance throughout the chain..from source to output device.


----------



## misshypez

lol wow ;( is all i can really say. this forum lead me to build my own theatre setup and im glad for all the information ive found. im still working on it. i got the epson 5040ub first. that was 2600 bucks. so lets first say im not about only going cheap im just building as i go. we aren't all rich. but i see you guys point. i will go ahead and blow 600 on an oppo 203 so i dont have to wry about things not being compatible and ill finish my high end audio setup in the following months. i didn't really want a hard lesson in "buy cheap u get what u pay for" but an open convo on solving my problem. anyways thanks for the feedback and the time i will continue to do what i can to build my setup with Quality parts so that i dont have to mark this forum with "noob" questions. thanks again

-allison


----------



## dimi123

titanle said:


> Are the black levels really that noticeable ?


Here's a direct comparison. Guess which is which. Not only are the blacks deeper but the 5040's native contrast is 4-5x higher.


----------



## titanle

Wow, that’s a pretty significant difference! The right side looks washed out in comparison. Is that in a 100% light controlled room?


----------



## dimi123

titanle said:


> Wow, that’s a pretty significant difference! The right side looks washed out in comparison. Is that in a 100% light controlled room?


Here's the whole article: http://cine4home.de/grosses-test-special-epson-eh-tw7300-vs-eh-tw9300-w/


----------



## gene4ht

misshypez said:


> lol wow ;( is all i can really say. this forum lead me to build my own theatre setup and im glad for all the information ive found. im still working on it. i got the epson 5040ub first. that was 2600 bucks. so lets first say im not about only going cheap im just building as i go. we aren't all rich. but i see you guys point. i will go ahead and blow 600 on an oppo 203 so i dont have to wry about things not being compatible and ill finish my high end audio setup in the following months. i didn't really want a hard lesson in "buy cheap u get what u pay for" but an open convo on solving my problem. anyways thanks for the feedback and the time i will continue to do what i can to build my setup with Quality parts so that i dont have to mark this forum with "noob" questions. thanks again
> 
> -allison


Hi Allison,

WRT our advice, you may want to hit the pause button momentarily with your decision. It's not being suggested that it's necessary to buy an expensive or high end UHD player product but rather just not the least expensive one. In fact, if you're not already aware, Oppo just recently announced their exit from UHD player manufacturing...hence the 203 & 205 are discontinued. It may be difficult to purchase a 203 now as remaining inventory will likely be scarce or grossly overpriced on eBay. Depending on one's perspective, this may not be a bad thing. Picture quality is generally identical with respect to most UHD players...4K is 4K. Those that value and covet Oppo products do so primarily for two reasons: (1) Oppo's reputation for long term support and (2) overall build quality. Long term support is now likely questionable at best...it takes revenue and cash flow to support support. The other consideration that is not discussed much yet is the longevity of disc media...streaming will no doubt become the leading form of content distribution...leaving physical disc players for the Smithsonian. Having said all of this, my recommendation is to look at mid range UHD players to bridge the gap until "quality" streaming becomes the commonplace standard in few years. Players, popular with AVS members, you may want to evaluate include the Sony UBP-X700 and X800. Panasonic is also popular and include the current UB900 and if you are in no hurry...several new models are being introduced in the June/July timeframe. All these should be available at Best Buy and Amazon. See the link below for a preview of the upcoming Panasonic players.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...lu-ray-players-ces-2018-a-4.html#post56031780

And lastly, since UHD players are a bit OT for this thread, please visit the thread below for specific information on manufacturers and models of UHD players. Good luck with your research and decision making! 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-blu-ray-players/

Gene


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> One reason those settings will clip early is the use of Auto (Bright). I assume you have the 1.11 Firmware.
> 
> That setting essentially hard clips at around 65% of the greyscale (for reference, 75% is ~ 1000 nits) no matter what you do to the settings. I have verified this with a meter. It's as if Epson just decided to crank up the brightness on that setting to stop the complaints. But they have taken the ability to shape any roll off out of the users hands.
> 
> If you use Auto instead you should experience less clipping. Note that all of the popular settings on this thread are based on Auto and not Auto(bright) because the latest version of auto(bright) using the 1.11 FW didn't exist at the time. And the previous Auto(bright) is now Auto.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your advice is always spot on and I thank you.

I used auto instead auto bright with those posted settings, I did have to turn brightness up. His settings say 80 mine are at 93 via test Patten but my bulb is 1100+ hrs on high mode with 153" screen. With Auto bright I was still at 86. I believe its his gamma that makes brightness so high. With oledurt I am at 50 with BC. 53 with Harper vision.

It helped clipping a bit, still clips really early as in not even 400nits but this is for games only...don't think UHD would look good with clipping that early, probably why he only suggested those for gaming and SDR (SDR material it clips at more than 1200 vs below 400 on HDR)

But turning it to auto immediately made picture, richer, less haze and less washed out. With auto bright it seems to wash entire picture out.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## misshypez

gene4ht said:


> Hi Allison,
> 
> WRT our advice, you may want to hit the pause button momentarily with your decision. It's not being suggested that it's necessary to buy an expensive or high end UHD player product but rather just not the least expensive one. In fact, if you're not already aware, Oppo just recently announced their exit from UHD player manufacturing...hence the 203 & 205 are discontinued. It may be difficult to purchase a 203 now as remaining inventory will likely be scarce or grossly overpriced on eBay. Depending on one's perspective, this may not be a bad thing. Picture quality is generally identical with respect to most UHD players...4K is 4K. Those that value and covet Oppo products do so primarily for two reasons: (1) Oppo's reputation for long term support and (2) overall build quality. Long term support is now likely questionable at best...it takes revenue and cash flow to support support. The other consideration that is not discussed much yet is the longevity of disc media...streaming will no doubt become the leading form of content distribution...leaving physical disc players for the Smithsonian. Having said all of this, my recommendation is to look at mid range UHD players to bridge the gap until "quality" streaming becomes the commonplace standard in few years. Players, popular with AVS members, you may want to evaluate include the Sony UBP-X700 and X800. Panasonic is also popular and include the current UB900 and if you are in no hurry...several new models are being introduced in the June/July timeframe. All these should be available at Best Buy and Amazon. See the link below for a preview of the upcoming Panasonic players.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-b...lu-ray-players-ces-2018-a-4.html#post56031780
> 
> And lastly, since UHD players are a bit OT for this thread, please visit the thread below for specific information on manufacturers and models of UHD players. Good luck with your research and decision making!
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-blu-ray-players/
> 
> Gene


ty so much for this well informed message. exactly what i was looking for =D sry im just trying to learn all of this so i dont waste any money. i have high aspirations of an amazing setup but im still not loaded =D ty again ill look into the info u gave

-allison


----------



## robc1976

roland6465 said:


> Without looking at your player's manual, go through the player's settings and make sure the applicable choices are set properly. Usually, "auto" is your friend. You can also force 2160p from the player, and let the projector see it as a 4K SDR signal.
> 
> Also, most of us here aren't into home theater for "cheap" components. I'd bet that of the 5040/6040 owners, over half have 300% or more invested into their audio and sources than their projector. That's why there's little talk about that unit on here. There may be a thread in the blu-ray player forum for that particular model.


I have more in speaker wire than this projector, cheapest thing in my room lol. My screen cost more lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Your advice is always spot on and I thank you.
> 
> I used auto instead auto bright with those posted settings, I did have to turn brightness up. His settings say 80 mine are at 93 via test Patten but my bulb is 1100+ hrs on high mode with 153" screen. With Auto bright I was still at 86. I believe its his gamma that makes brightness so high. With oledurt I am at 50 with BC. 53 with Harper vision.
> 
> It helped clipping a bit, still clips really early as in not even 400nits but this is for games only...don't think UHD would look good with clipping that early, probably why he only suggested those for gaming and SDR (SDR material it clips at more than 1200 vs below 400 on HDR)
> 
> But turning it to auto immediately made picture, richer, less haze and less washed out. With auto bright it seems to wash entire picture out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


See, I see no loss in detail in clouds ect

Pics 

#1 harper vision
#2 custom settings posted above
#3 harper vision
#4 custom settings above










Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

robc1976 said:


> See, I see no loss in detail in clouds ect
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I think I am confused
Can you post a link to the Harpervision settings you refer to?

The Harpervision settings that I recorded show brightness as being 46 not 80
Also his settings use Dynamic Range = SDR not AutoBright

There is no denying that those custom screenshots look better

Also there has been a firmware update since the original Harpervision settings were first published so I am unsure if they are still valid
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-222.html#post52228017


----------



## roland6465

robc1976 said:


> I have more in speaker wire than this projector, cheapest thing in my room lol. My screen cost more lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


missy- I didn't mean to offend you, I was just letting you know why there wasn't any talk on that player. I pulled up your player on Amazon, and your problem is definitely in the player settings. It is "compatible" with this projector. Again, cruise over to the Blu-ray Player forum and search for that model, find the thread on it, and go from there. 

And you and rob1976 are correct. We're all at different points of this hobby. His projector is the cheapest in his chain, mine isn't the most expensive in mine, but not by far the cheapest. You'll get it put together, you'll love it. And then you'll want to upgrade EVERYTHING at some point. That's the bug.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

misshypez said:


> lol wow ;( is all i can really say. this forum lead me to build my own theatre setup and im glad for all the information ive found. im still working on it. i got the epson 5040ub first. that was 2600 bucks. so lets first say im not about only going cheap im just building as i go. we aren't all rich. but i see you guys point. i will go ahead and blow 600 on an oppo 203 so i dont have to wry about things not being compatible and ill finish my high end audio setup in the following months. i didn't really want a hard lesson in "buy cheap u get what u pay for" but an open convo on solving my problem. anyways thanks for the feedback and the time i will continue to do what i can to build my setup with Quality parts so that i dont have to mark this forum with "noob" questions. thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> -allison




I don’t think he meant to offend you I think he was just highlighting that your “cheap” player might be the issue and to think about upgrading to something a bit nicer in the future. Also you don’t have to course correct with a player as expensive to get results. Something middle of the road like an Xbox one s or a Sony x800 is more then capable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

robc1976 said:


> See, I see no loss in detail in clouds ect
> 
> Pics
> 
> #1 harper vision
> #2 custom settings posted above
> #3 harper vision
> #4 custom settings above
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The cloud highlights and the sun in the final picture are clearly blown out and clipped...

I don't know if this is your camera settings or what it actually looks like...


----------



## bigbadbob

Can someone explain what clipping is to a newb? Crayola version please (dumbed down).
Thanks
RG


----------



## Uppsalaing

bigbadbob said:


> Can someone explain what clipping is to a newb? Crayola version please (dumbed down).
> Thanks
> RG


As I understand it, as a semi-newb, it's when part of the image goes completely black or completely white, i.e. there is no longer any visible detail there.

When we calibrate our displays it is partly to make sure that the black and the white clipping points are set appropriately so that only the parts that the filmmakers want to be pure black or pure white are shown that way.


----------



## bigbadbob

Thanks for the insight. Now what the heck are nits?


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> Your advice is always spot on and I thank you.
> 
> I used auto instead auto bright with those posted settings, I did have to turn brightness up. His settings say 80 mine are at 93 via test Patten but my bulb is 1100+ hrs on high mode with 153" screen. With Auto bright I was still at 86. I believe its his gamma that makes brightness so high. With oledurt I am at 50 with BC. 53 with Harper vision.
> 
> It helped clipping a bit, still clips really early as in not even 400nits but this is for games only...don't think UHD would look good with clipping that early, probably why he only suggested those for gaming and SDR (SDR material it clips at more than 1200 vs below 400 on HDR)
> 
> But turning it to auto immediately made picture, richer, less haze and less washed out. With auto bright it seems to wash entire picture out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Glad it helped. I'm not sure what Epson's thinking was for the new Auto(bright) setting. It seems to take gamma curve to the extreme. I was not able to get to a good HDR calibration with that setting (with a meter and calibration software). It might work better in other setups / environments, however.


----------



## jwhn

bigbadbob said:


> Thanks for the insight. Now what the heck are nits?


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Candela_per_square_metre


----------



## Jaflores

With all these settings for different veiwing sources has anyone had any success with a harmony elite remote automatically selecting memory settings for each activity? Example if I choose 4k hdr source I would use harpervison settings and for standard Blu-ray viewing use sdr settings. It's a bit annoying to have to select each time especially for kids or wife who dont know how you operate all the equipment correctly


----------



## jwhn

Jaflores said:


> With all these settings for different veiwing sources has anyone had any success with a harmony elite remote automatically selecting memory settings for each activity? Example if I choose 4k hdr source I would use harpervison settings and for standard Blu-ray viewing use sdr settings. It's a bit annoying to have to select each time especially for kids or wife who dont know how you operate all the equipment correctly


Yes, I did this. A bit tedious to set it up the first time but then it works well. The main thing to get it to work is to make sure to add 1 second delays where needed.


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> I think I am confused
> Can you post a link to the Harpervision settings you refer to?
> 
> The Harpervision settings that I recorded show brightness as being 46 not 80
> Also his settings use Dynamic Range = SDR not AutoBright
> 
> There is no denying that those custom screenshots look better
> 
> Also there has been a firmware update since the original Harpervision settings were first published so I am unsure if they are still valid
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-222.html#post52228017


Lol, the settings with 80 are these bright cinnema settings posted, yes HV is 46 depending on room









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Uppsalaing said:


> The cloud highlights and the sun in the final picture are clearly blown out and clipped...
> 
> I don't know if this is your camera settings or what it actually looks like...


That is night time shot, itsc hard to j judge because sun goes in and out in game. This is just a phone pic so probably the dumb phone. Looks much better in picture.

Your referring to last pic correct? What do you mean by blown out? And loss of cloud detail. This is the info I need.

It has more cloud detail than HV (1st & 3rd pic) or it seems to.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Uppsalaing said:


> The cloud highlights and the sun in the final picture are clearly blown out and clipped...
> 
> I don't know if this is your camera settings or what it actually looks like...


I see what your saying, that is the moon coming in at night. Its a almost dark shot because game goes from dusk to dawn in real time.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Uppsalaing said:


> The cloud highlights and the sun in the final picture are clearly blown out and clipped...
> 
> I don't know if this is your camera settings or what it actually looks like...


If you look at 3rd & 4th pic are same shot but 3rd pic is HV and the moon is completely gone, 4th pic (bright cinnema) you can see the moon ect

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

roland6465 said:


> missy- I didn't mean to offend you, I was just letting you know why there wasn't any talk on that player. I pulled up your player on Amazon, and your problem is definitely in the player settings. It is "compatible" with this projector. Again, cruise over to the Blu-ray Player forum and search for that model, find the thread on it, and go from there.
> 
> And you and rob1976 are correct. We're all at different points of this hobby. His projector is the cheapest in his chain, mine isn't the most expensive in mine, but not by far the cheapest. You'll get it put together, you'll love it. And then you'll want to upgrade EVERYTHING at some point. That's the bug.


The room was by far the most expensive....8 layers-drywall, green glue ect

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> I think I am confused
> Can you post a link to the Harpervision settings you refer to?
> 
> The Harpervision settings that I recorded show brightness as being 46 not 80
> Also his settings use Dynamic Range = SDR not AutoBright
> 
> There is no denying that those custom screenshots look better
> 
> Also there has been a firmware update since the original Harpervision settings were first published so I am unsure if they are still valid
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-222.html#post52228017


That's what I was doing comparing harpervision to the custom bright cinnema settings. Both I tweaked slightly also.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## megametaman

I'm usually the optimistic type and I was hoping all the talk of 5040UBs having faulty power supplies wasn't going to happen to me.

Then I bought a 65" OLED and I thought, "Why didn't I get this instead of that projector?" 

Then I was thinking, "Maybe if the projector messes up I'll try to get something less expensive and wait until HDMI 2.1 projectors are around with better 4K pixel-shifters, or a true 4K projector that won't put me in the poor house.

I'm contacting the place I bought it from. My fingers are crossed....NOPE! I have to take it in and wait up to 2 weeks to get something back.

Man, I wish I would have waited and bought something better in a year or two.

Edit for more info:
I bought in late January and have about 100hours on it. Didn’t even mount it yet, thankfully.
Also, I have both the 65" OLED and the projector, why do I need to be told which is better? I guess I'm just being encouraged to like the thing that other people like. For the record, I love the projector experience and I also love the amazing PQ from the OLED. Eventually I'll get a 100 inch roll-able screen with better tech than OLED, but for now I like parts of what both "tvs" have to offer.


----------



## Uppsalaing

robc1976 said:


> That is night time shot, itsc hard to j judge because sun goes in and out in game. This is just a phone pic so probably the dumb phone. Looks much better in picture.
> 
> Your referring to last pic correct? What do you mean by blown out? And loss of cloud detail. This is the info I need.
> 
> It has more cloud detail than HV (1st & 3rd pic) or it seems to.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yes, the final pic that has the moon and the brightest part of the cloud seems pure white. Probably a combination of the change in scene and the phone's limited dynamic range.


----------



## Uppsalaing

megametaman said:


> I'm usually the optimistic type and I was hoping all the talk of 5040UBs having faulty power supplies wasn't going to happen to me.
> 
> Then I bought a 65" OLED and I thought, "Why didn't I get this instead of that projector?"
> 
> Then I was thinking, "Maybe if the projector messes up I'll try to get something less expensive and wait until HDMI 2.1 projectors are around with better 4K pixel-shifters, or a true 4K projector that won't put me in the poor house.
> 
> I'm contacting the place I bought it from. My fingers are crossed....NOPE! I have to take it in and wait up to 2 weeks to get something back.
> 
> Man, I wish I would have waited and bought something better in a year or two.


The Epson would blow away any 65" TV in terms of immersion... It's far more cinematic...

I hope you get a unit with a good power source. If you don't have power source issues you won't regret your decision at all...

If I was in the US, I would have saved a bit more and bought a JVC or laser Epson or settled for a cheaper Sony. My Epson is the European model (9300W) which seems to have a more reliable power supply (anecdotally), but all projectors outside the US are more expensive anyway. So in terms of value the Epsons sit in a sweat spot at the moment.

Fingers crossed.


----------



## robc1976

Uppsalaing said:


> Yes, the final pic that has the moon and the brightest part of the cloud seems pure white. Probably a combination of the change in scene and the phone's limited dynamic range.


More than likely the phone, although those settings the contrast does clip really early for sure but the trade off is so worth it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

I purchased my Epson 5040 last week. I turned off the projector last night, however I accidentally sat on the remote after turning it off. The projector immediately came back on and did the turbo fan thing that people have complained about here. I pray this is not a bad sign of things to come.

I'm already very nervous about owning this problematic projector. I wanted to wait until the end of the year, however I need a brighter projector since I only use ALR screens. Also, the Epson 5040 replacement will most likely start at the $3000 mark which I'm not willing to pay.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

After all of the discussion on the settings I posted a few weeks ago I have been working on taking the great information given and applying it to make a universal setting. This new one seems to look good on all hdr sources to me which is pretty awesome! Can someone with test patterns tell me where this is clipping? Thank you 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## KKfromLA

Could someone help me out... I finally got around to playing with the video settings... tried all of the settings in this thread (standard non HDR & 4K HDR settings) including the one posted above for 4k HDR. Across all of the settings, I noticed the black levels are off in my set up. The blacks are washed out and detail is entirely gone during dark scenes or dark backgrounds. My room conditions are quite good and I am using a 110" elite (white) screen with a 10'10" throw distance (exact minimum for a 110" screen). I have only 75H on the bulb. Not sure what the issue can be? 

Also, no matter the settings, the DirecTV source is awful. I have the latest equipment, but the quality is very sub-par. Could it have something to do with the DirecTV signal coming into my complex? I recall the DirecTV installer mentioning the signal quality was poor and a booster (or something along those lines) needed to be installed.

Any help would be appreciated!!


----------



## shoeboo

LumensLover said:


> I purchased my Epson 5040 last week. I turned off the projector last night, however I accidentally sat on the remote after turning it off. The projector immediately came back on and did the turbo fan thing that people have complained about here. I pray this is not a bad sign of things to come.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm already very nervous about owning this problematic projector. I wanted to wait until the end of the year, however I need a brighter projector since I only use ALR screens. Also, the Epson 5040 replacement will most likely start at the $3000 mark which I'm not willing to pay.




The turbo fan is supposed to come on if you turn on the projector shortly after turning it off, so don’t worry about that. I have read it is needed due to epson not running the fan to cool bulb after unit is turned off. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DireWolf08

Jaflores said:


> With all these settings for different veiwing sources has anyone had any success with a harmony elite remote automatically selecting memory settings for each activity? Example if I choose 4k hdr source I would use harpervison settings and for standard Blu-ray viewing use sdr settings. It's a bit annoying to have to select each time especially for kids or wife who dont know how you operate all the equipment correctly


I also did this and it’s great. It is easiest to do in the MyHarmony app on your computer, I am not sure if you can even do it in the phone/tablet app. Go to buttons, choose the activity and pick the sequence tab to set up a new sequence. I did not have to program in any pauses, just Memory, select, the number of down clicks you need to select the memory slot you want to switch to and select again.


----------



## LumensLover

shoeboo said:


> The turbo fan is supposed to come on if you turn on the projector shortly after turning it off, so don’t worry about that. I have read it is needed due to epson not running the fan to cool bulb after unit is turned off.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok thank you for the info.


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> After all of the discussion on the settings I posted a few weeks ago I have been working on taking the great information given and applying it to make a universal setting. This new one seems to look good on all hdr sources to me which is pretty awesome! Can someone with test patterns tell me where this is clipping? Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Because you are using Auto(Bright) there is a good chance it will be clipping at ~65% which is around 500 nits. That setting seems to be fairly hard coded to clip early, at least in my experience.

By the way, here are some free patterns you can download to check things on your own.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2943380-hdr10-test-patterns-set.html


----------



## buntcake72

OrcusVaruna said:


> After all of the discussion on the settings I posted a few weeks ago I have been working on taking the great information given and applying it to make a universal setting. This new one seems to look good on all hdr sources to me which is pretty awesome! Can someone with test patterns tell me where this is clipping? Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Bravo! Made even a turd like The Last Jedi look awesome (was given a free copy as a joke so no I didn't pay for it LOL). So great work!


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> After all of the discussion on the settings I posted a few weeks ago I have been working on taking the great information given and applying it to make a universal setting. This new one seems to look good on all hdr sources to me which is pretty awesome! Can someone with test patterns tell me where this is clipping? Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your settings for game blows any I I have uses away. I did put it on auto instead of auto bright, really improved the picture. It clipped around 400-500 but I saw no loss in detail, the gamma curve is awesome. I will try these for sure! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> After all of the discussion on the settings I posted a few weeks ago I have been working on taking the great information given and applying it to make a universal setting. This new one seems to look good on all hdr sources to me which is pretty awesome! Can someone with test patterns tell me where this is clipping? Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Will this work for 4K HDR gaming? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jwhn said:


> Because you are using Auto(Bright) there is a good chance it will be clipping at ~65% which is around 500 nits. That setting seems to be fairly hard coded to clip early, at least in my experience.
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, here are some free patterns you can download to check things on your own.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2943380-hdr10-test-patterns-set.html




Awesome thank you 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jaflores

Does anyone else think we need a official dedicated thread for just the settings from Harper and oledurt? For HDR And SDR. AT 14K posts it's very hard for new members to find these settings or for them to know if they are post firmware update or not. Maybe the opening posts have all of the settings with last updated tags on them from the creators. In the post thereafter we can add others settings to try. I believe this will cut down on the best settings question that happens 100 times a day. Please some one set this up asap. I am currently trying to find beat SDR settings for the and Blu-ray as we speak . Thanks


----------



## robc1976

Jaflores said:


> Does anyone else think we need a official dedicated thread for just the settings from Harper and oledurt? For HDR And SDR. AT 14K posts it's very hard for new members to find these settings or for them to know if they are post firmware update or not. Maybe the opening posts have all of the settings with last updated tags on them from the creators. In the post thereafter we can add others settings to try. I believe this will cut down on the best settings question that happens 100 times a day. Please some one set this up asap. I am currently trying to find beat SDR settings for the and Blu-ray as we speak . Thanks


Yes! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> Because you are using Auto(Bright) there is a good chance it will be clipping at ~65% which is around 500 nits. That setting seems to be fairly hard coded to clip early, at least in my experience.
> 
> By the way, here are some free patterns you can download to check things on your own.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2943380-hdr10-test-patterns-set.html


Jwhn: when contrast clips at 500 or 65% or so what part are we losing detail in? Is it just the very bright highlights? 

I used the below settings that clip around 500 with auto bright off, contrast at 22 (if I go to 10 its better but that seems really low) andc watched superman 4k and I still had detail in clouds, white marble floors but possibly loss in detail in white explosions. Other than that it was flawless.

Just trying to see what part of white clips.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Jwhn: when contrast clips at 500 or 65% or so what part are we losing detail in? Is it just the very bright highlights?
> 
> I used the below settings that clip around 500 with auto bright off, contrast at 22 (if I go to 10 its better but that seems really low) andc watched superman 4k and I still had detail in clouds, white marble floors but possibly loss in detail in white explosions. Other than that it was flawless.
> 
> Just trying to see what part of white clips.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


These settings









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> Jwhn: when contrast clips at 500 or 65% or so what part are we losing detail in? Is it just the very bright highlights?
> 
> I used the below settings that clip around 500 with auto bright off, contrast at 22 (if I go to 10 its better but that seems really low) andc watched superman 4k and I still had detail in clouds, white marble floors but possibly loss in detail in white explosions. Other than that it was flawless.
> 
> Just trying to see what part of white clips.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



That's probably generally true but suppose it varies by content. I don't know how video games are mastered though.

You could use patterns to create a setting where you verify there is no clipping at 1000 or 4000 nits. Use contrast, gamma settings 8 and 9, the dynamic range setting, and super white to eliminate clipping. 

Then pull up a scene that has very bright highlights. You can now switch between this new setting and your baseline setting to see what is getting clipped in your baseline setting. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## misshypez

roland6465 said:


> missy- I didn't mean to offend you, I was just letting you know why there wasn't any talk on that player. I pulled up your player on Amazon, and your problem is definitely in the player settings. It is "compatible" with this projector. Again, cruise over to the Blu-ray Player forum and search for that model, find the thread on it, and go from there.
> 
> And you and rob1976 are correct. We're all at different points of this hobby. His projector is the cheapest in his chain, mine isn't the most expensive in mine, but not by far the cheapest. You'll get it put together, you'll love it. And then you'll want to upgrade EVERYTHING at some point. That's the bug.


its totally cool im sry ;( im just learning all this and loving every min of it but im not perfect yet and im still learning daily just want to work on my setup. ty for the feedback ill do my research!

-allison


----------



## titanle

Just pulled the trigger on a 5040UB, excited to get it here and test out the above posted settings!!!!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> These settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




So I’ve been messing around a lot with hdr settings and used the hdr test patterns posted earlier and what I found is that what tests “perfect” and what looks good to the eye do not always line up. It’s not like sdr where you set it and don’t touch it for years. The most recent setting i posted clipped at 600 nits but looked good to great with every hdr source I pushed it. If I used say harpervision, yes it didn’t clip until about 1100 nits but it looked like a grayed out mess on most scenes. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

misshypez said:


> its totally cool im sry ;( im just learning all this and loving every min of it but im not perfect yet and im still learning daily just want to work on my setup. ty for the feedback ill do my research!
> 
> -allison


So much reserarch, I am more ofca, sound guy aca jumped straight into the projector scene and it was overwhelming.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## nonstopdoc1

Does this projector support *4K SDR* playback from Netflix/Amazon and Local Files (via Kodi) from Nvidia Shield or are there any incompatibilities?


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I’ve been messing around a lot with hdr settings and used the hdr test patterns posted earlier and what I found is that what tests “perfect” and what looks good to the eye do not always line up. It’s not like sdr where you set it and don’t touch it for years. The most recent setting i posted clipped at 600 nits but looked good to great with every hdr source I pushed it. If I used say harpervision, yes it didn’t clip until about 1100 nits but it looked like a grayed out mess on most scenes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, your settings blow it away! I have comparison pics lol! No contest. I just used your new ones and those are best for gaming and uhd. With contrast at 40 it clipped at 70% around 800 nits, I lowered contrast to 22 and it clips at 1100.

The colors are slightly more vivid, still tweaking gamma but think its as good as others.










Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I’ve been messing around a lot with hdr settings and used the hdr test patterns posted earlier and what I found is that what tests “perfect” and what looks good to the eye do not always line up. It’s not like sdr where you set it and don’t touch it for years. The most recent setting i posted clipped at 600 nits but looked good to great with every hdr source I pushed it. If I used say harpervision, yes it didn’t clip until about 1100 nits but it looked like a grayed out mess on most scenes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Harper vision has almost a haze over it

Harper vision top & yours and clearly you win lol









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I’ve been messing around a lot with hdr settings and used the hdr test patterns posted earlier and what I found is that what tests “perfect” and what looks good to the eye do not always line up. It’s not like sdr where you set it and don’t touch it for years. The most recent setting i posted clipped at 600 nits but looked good to great with every hdr source I pushed it. If I used say harpervision, yes it didn’t clip until about 1100 nits but it looked like a grayed out mess on most scenes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your latest settings, you can turn down contrast to 20's to make it clip at 1100, maybe it looks better at 40 will compare but your new ones are awesome as well. So hard to decided between the 2 lol! Your newer ones have richer color, better detail, and less loss of detail in my game in far distance on brick buildings ect.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Jaflores

robc1976 said:


> Jaflores said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone else think we need a official dedicated thread for just the settings from Harper and oledurt? For HDR And SDR. AT 14K posts it's very hard for new members to find these settings or for them to know if they are post firmware update or not. Maybe the opening posts have all of the settings with last updated tags on them from the creators. In the post thereafter we can add others settings to try. I believe this will cut down on the best settings question that happens 100 times a day. Please some one set this up asap. I am currently trying to find beat SDR settings for the and Blu-ray as we speak . Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Yes!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Then let's do it NOW!!


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I’ve been messing around a lot with hdr settings and used the hdr test patterns posted earlier and what I found is that what tests “perfect” and what looks good to the eye do not always line up. It’s not like sdr where you set it and don’t touch it for years. The most recent setting i posted clipped at 600 nits but looked good to great with every hdr source I pushed it. If I used say harpervision, yes it didn’t clip until about 1100 nits but it looked like a grayed out mess on most scenes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Curious the reasoning for the -5 lens iris? Wouldn't that cut light out? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I’ve been messing around a lot with hdr settings and used the hdr test patterns posted earlier and what I found is that what tests “perfect” and what looks good to the eye do not always line up. It’s not like sdr where you set it and don’t touch it for years. The most recent setting i posted clipped at 600 nits but looked good to great with every hdr source I pushed it. If I used say harpervision, yes it didn’t clip until about 1100 nits but it looked like a grayed out mess on most scenes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I put "epson super white" on and at it didn't clip nearly as bad and same detail. I am at 34 and 1100 nits and my bulb has 1400 hrs on it with high lamp mode.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Interesting ! Will definitely try it later tonight. But does it matter what's the gain on our screen ? Wonder what's yours ? Many thanks.




robc1976 said:


> Your latest settings, you can turn down contrast to 20's to make it clip at 1100, maybe it looks better at 40 will compare but your new ones are awesome as well. So hard to decided between the 2 lol! Your newer ones have richer color, better detail, and less loss of detail in my game in far distance on brick buildings ect.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

ac388 said:


> Interesting ! Will definitely try it later tonight. But does it matter what's the gain on our screen ? Wonder what's yours ? Many thanks.


Try this, slight better pic inmho and you can use higher contrast

Turn epson super white on, way less clipping and a bit better detail. Possibly a slight darker image but its worth it. Then compare with epsom super white off and lower contrast to see which you like. 

I Stewart filmscreen cima nueve rated at almost 1.3 gain

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks !!! I am using a Stewart Studiotek 1.3 gain screen too, so the result should be very close. Using Monoprice fiber HDMI n Oppo 203 , that maybe the only difference.


----------



## ac388

U meant ...

Super white ON ... Contrast 40
Super white OFF ... Contrast 22

Right ???

P.S. Only 580 hours on my lamp now


----------



## robc1976

ac388 said:


> Interesting ! Will definitely try it later tonight. But does it matter what's the gain on our screen ? Wonder what's yours ? Many thanks.


After tweaking these settings the best for me and another buddy of mine where

We epson super white on ave contrast about 36-38 and also 2 on 2nd gamma point, with 0 I lost black level detail.

Also auto bright on is great with these settings, tried it on auto and it dimmed image and clipping was about same.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

ac388 said:


> U meant ...
> 
> Super white ON ... Contrast 40
> Super white OFF ... Contrast 22
> 
> Right ???
> 
> P.S. Only 580 hours on my lamp now


Yes, keeping it on, I also tweaked my offsets and gain if you want those. Let me know

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

ac388 said:


> Interesting ! Will definitely try it later tonight. But does it matter what's the gain on our screen ? Wonder what's yours ? Many thanks.




I am using a high gain screen as well, a Elite Cinegrey 3D. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Try this, slight better pic inmho and you can use higher contrast
> 
> Turn epson super white on, way less clipping and a bit better detail. Possibly a slight darker image but its worth it. Then compare with epsom super white off and lower contrast to see which you like.
> 
> I Stewart filmscreen cima nueve rated at almost 1.3 gain
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




I just put superwhite on and yes it’s dimer but still a very nice image. Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just put superwhite on and yes it’s dimer but still a very nice image. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I put that on, then raised contrast to 38 and raised 2nd gamna point to 2.

These are inmho the best settings I have seen for this protector.

Thank you! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> I put that on, then raised contrast to 38 and raised 2nd gamna point to 2.
> 
> These are inmho the best settings I have seen for this protector.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Awesome glad you like them! I did the same but boosted 2nd gamma point to 3 and it’s perfect. Just tried a movie, a game, and a super high contrast scene from Netflix and it looks fantastic on all 3. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

robc1976 said:


> Yes, your settings blow it away! I have comparison pics lol! No contest. I just used your new ones and those are best for gaming and uhd. With contrast at 40 it clipped at 70% around 800 nits, I lowered contrast to 22 and it clips at 1100.
> 
> The colors are slightly more vivid, still tweaking gamma but think its as good as others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


With these settings you're not doing the force HDR to SDR like I believe Harpervision does?


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Awesome glad you like them! I did the same but boosted 2nd gamma point to 3 and it’s perfect. Just tried a movie, a game, and a super high contrast scene from Netflix and it looks fantastic on all 3.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was debating on 2 vs 3 lol! It gives that detail in dark scenes

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

WynsWrld98 said:


> With these settings you're not doing the force HDR to SDR like I believe Harpervision does?


Nope, use auto bright

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

WynsWrld98 said:


> With these settings you're not doing the force HDR to SDR like I believe Harpervision does?


Input these settings, I tweaked the offsets/gains by eye. They where prerty close except gain blue I raised from 44 to 64. This varies screen to screen, bulb life ect.

I also raise gamma 2 point to 3 and turned on epson super-white

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Input these settings, I tweaked the offsets/gains by eye. They where prerty close except gain blue I raised from 44 to 64. This varies screen to screen, bulb life ect.
> 
> I also raise gamma 2 point to 3 and turned on epson super-white
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


These, forgot to attach lol









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

WynsWrld98 said:


> With these settings you're not doing the force HDR to SDR like I believe Harpervision does?


Plus Harpervision doesn't use *Bright Cinema* 
Harpervision uses *Digital Cinema* which uses the P3 filter


so I don't know why robc 1976 keeps insisting on quoting and comparing these settings to Harpervision ?


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> I was debating on 2 vs 3 lol! It gives that detail in dark scenes
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Input these settings, I tweaked the offsets/gains by eye. They where pretty close except gain blue I raised from 44 to 64, raised 2nd gamma point to 3 and turned on epson super white.









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lesmor said:


> Plus Harpervision doesn't use *Bright Cinema*
> 
> Harpervision uses *Digital Cinema* which uses the P3 filter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so I don't know why robc 1976 keeps insisting on quoting and comparing these settings to Harpervision ?




Harpervision is the gold standard for hdr viewing on the 5040 so a comparison to different settings regardless of color mode seems apt to me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> I was debating on 2 vs 3 lol! It gives that detail in dark scenes
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Ya 3 was wonderful. I want to give the test patterns posted the other day and see how these settings hold up on the patterns 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Ya 3 was wonderful. I want to give the test patterns posted the other day and see how these settings hold up on the patterns
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


All I know is they are awesome, I did move blue gain from 44 to 64

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> All I know is they are awesome, I did move blue gain from 44 to 64
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




I’m glad it’s working so well! The blue makes sense as my screen applies a very generous blue push to the image. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## marco1975

Just thought i would share this, if anyone is annoyed by the (High Fan Speed noise/black screen at the start up issue) try this the next time before u going to turn OFF the projector, change the input source on the projector for an empty one , for example if your sources blu-ray, dvd, avr, etc. are connected to the HDMI -Port 1, change that to HDMI -Port 2 (as long as there is nothing connected to that port) and then turn OFF the projector normaly, doing so everytime before u turn OFF the projector, has solved the annoying issue for me, and it's been so for the last 3 weeks now  so hopefully it will also work for someone alse.


----------



## Lesmor

OrcusVaruna said:


> Harpervision is the gold standard for hdr viewing on the 5040 so a comparison to different settings regardless of color mode seems apt to me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not much of a Gold standard if it thrown out in favour of something that doesn't bear any resemblance to his settings

Not criticising, just suggesting that if you find better settings then perhaps the posters should take ownership of those settings in there own right


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lesmor said:


> Not much of a Gold standard if it thrown out in favour of something that doesn't bear any resemblance to his settings
> 
> 
> 
> Not criticising, just suggesting that if you find better settings then perhaps the posters should take ownership of those settings in there own right




Idk maybe I’m just confused but I did take ownership of my settings and made it very clear I’m just a regular dude messing with a new gadget sharing what I find to be an appealing picture setting for my living room environment with white walls and an alr screen. In my use case I found harpervision washed out way too easily most likely due to the reduced light output. Robc happens to have a similar setup to mine and the settings translated very well to his high gain Stewart screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

OrcusVaruna said:


> Idk maybe I’m just confused but I did take ownership of my settings and made it very clear I’m just a regular dude messing with a new gadget sharing what I find to be an appealing picture setting for my living room environment with white walls and an alr screen. In my use case I found harpervision washed out way too easily most likely due to the reduced light output. Robc happens to have a similar setup to mine and the settings translated very well to his high gain Stewart screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I appreciate that dude no disrespect 
If your settings work for you that's great, but they are your settings, and nothing to do with Dave Harper (Harpervision)
Discs are mastered in DCI P3 and Bright Cinema doesn't use the DCI-P3 filter so its down to preference not reference


----------



## carp

I've tried many of the settings on the thread, but I always come back to preferring the default Bright Cinema settings. I use the HDR slider on the Panasonic on UHD disks (bump it up 5 or 6) and just leave everything alone. Bright Cinema for both SDR and HDR and both look great. 

I'm not saying anyone is "doing it wrong", just curious if I'm the only one. I do have a very large screen so that could be part of it.


----------



## LumensLover

carp said:


> I've tried many of the settings on the thread, but I always come back to preferring the default Bright Cinema settings. I use the HDR slider on the Panasonic on UHD disks (bump it up 5 or 6) and just leave everything alone. Bright Cinema for both SDR and HDR and both look great.
> 
> I'm not saying anyone is "doing it wrong", just curious if I'm the only one. I do have a very large screen so that could be part of it.


I'm doing the same thing.


----------



## KKfromLA

KKfromLA said:


> Could someone help me out... I finally got around to playing with the video settings... tried all of the settings in this thread (standard non HDR & 4K HDR settings) including the one posted above for 4k HDR. Across all of the settings, I noticed the black levels are off in my set up. The blacks are washed out and detail is entirely gone during dark scenes or dark backgrounds. My room conditions are quite good and I am using a 110" elite (white) screen with a 10'10" throw distance (exact minimum for a 110" screen). I have only 75H on the bulb. Not sure what the issue can be?
> 
> Any help would be appreciated!!


^^^ Would really appreciate someone's input here. Everything looks amazing except dark scenes/scenes where there is lots of black. Perhaps someone could guide me to which settings I should play with specifically? TIA!


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Idk maybe I’m just confused but I did take ownership of my settings and made it very clear I’m just a regular dude messing with a new gadget sharing what I find to be an appealing picture setting for my living room environment with white walls and an alr screen. In my use case I found harpervision washed out way too easily most likely due to the reduced light output. Robc happens to have a similar setup to mine and the settings translated very well to his high gain Stewart screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am in a dedicated theater, with black walls, sound proof ect act your settings are way better.

HV is not bad for movies but for gaming = no thanks. For movies its okay, but your settings blow it away. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> I appreciate that dude no disrespect
> If your settings work for you that's great, but they are your settings, and nothing to do with Dave Harper (Harpervision)
> Discs are mastered in DCI P3 and Bright Cinema doesn't use the DCI-P3 filter so its down to preference not reference


I agree with the P3 filter of digital cinnema ect but his settings colors are as good if not better than HV. They are really vivid, really accurate and just a really good picture with great detail in blacks and whites.

I still highly respect Dave for sure, awesome contributer.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

KKfromLA said:


> ^^^ Would really appreciate someone's input here. Everything looks amazing except dark scenes/scenes where there is lots of black. Perhaps someone could guide me to which settings I should play with specifically? TIA!


Did you use test patterns to set brightness and contrast? If not that bad cause washed out blacks ect

Also experiment with 2 & 3 gamma points.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## nathan

*Hush Box*

I've had my 5040ub for a few weeks now. Very happy so far. Thanks to everyone for the near 14k posts, give or take, that helped get me here. Not that I read them all. 

So... I've decided to build a hush box. My room is small and this thing puts out noise and heat comparable to my old 9" CRT. Ok, maybe that's a bit of a stretch, but I'm a bit surprised actually at the fan and iris noise. I'm also surprised at the way this thing sucks in dust past the lens. Not just through the side cooling vents, but right around the lens itself.

My first question is whether or not blocking the lens off directly with projector glass to prevent that air flow past the lens circle would be an issue? 

I'm also going to duct the side air flows separately, in from the ceiling and out through the back wall. I'll probably add a couple of 110mm fans and some temperature sensors to besure what the overall effect is. The other question is whether the whole projector is cooled through those front vents? Meaning if the back body of the projector was inside the box separated from the airflow for the 2 front vents, would that be an issue? I assume not since there are no other vents on the body of the pj, but who knows.

Thoughts, concerns?


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks.



robc1976 said:


> Yes, keeping it on, I also tweaked my offsets and gain if you want those. Let me know
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks.



OrcusVaruna said:


> I am using a high gain screen as well, a Elite Cinegrey 3D.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

robc1976 said:


> I am in a dedicated theater, with black walls, sound proof ect act your settings are way better.
> 
> HV is not bad for movies but for gaming = no thanks. For movies its okay, but your settings blow it away.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


 @OrcusVaruna
I am definitely going to give these settings a try especially if they suit Rec709 SDR and DCI-P3 HDR discs


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> @OrcusVaruna
> I am definitely going to give these settings a try especially if they suit Rec709 SDR and DCI-P3 HDR discs


I really think you will be very pleased

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## achanonier

robc1976 said:


> See, I see no loss in detail in clouds ect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


There is indeed some clipping here in the sky (or maybe it's the picture taken by the camera)...

The news settings seem better however.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lesmor said:


> @OrcusVaruna
> 
> I am definitely going to give these settings a try especially if they suit Rec709 SDR and DCI-P3 HDR discs



The new HDR setting is definitely watchable on sdr 709 content. I was watching regular tv last night and thought the picture looked off and sure enough I had the bc hdr setting on. So I still prefer a proper sdr specific setting but if you have a family that can’t be bothered with such things as changing a setting for different content then the hdr setting will work. I updated the pictures to reflect the most recent and I suspect final changes. I am very happy with the image produced now. 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

*Settings for movies*

It's important to me for the settings for movies to be accurate.

For SDR movies, I use the default Neutral settings and have checked with the calibration disc and these seem spot on (Epson 9300W projector, the Euro model of the 6040). I have the power on low and auto iris off. iris set at 20 (smallest).

For HDR movies, I use the default Cinema settings and they seem great from a colour and detail point of view, but I find that I have to bump the gamma to +1 (but with superwhite turned on) in the occational movie that is mastered too dark. e.g., Dunkirk looks great with default settings, but Brooklyn has slightly too dark shadows. I use a 0.8 gain grey screen (non-ALR). Iris set to normal. I have not calibrated this yet, as I have only just bought a laptop.

I have used HarperVision settings and they do seem to have accurate colours and it is difficult to choose between it and the defaul Cinema settings.

Other settings can be brighter, more colourful, or sharper, but I'm only interested in having picture quality close to what the filmmakers intended. I don't game, so it is no concern for me.

I'll post here when I've done a calibration test to see how close HDR is, but my understanding is that HDR calibration Standards aren't as easy to guage as SDR. In a way, I often find myself sticking to SDR for movies I haven't seen before, unless it's a movie that really warrents HDR, such as Annihilation.

HDR done wrongly (wrong settings or mastering) can look very uncinematic.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Uppsalaing said:


> I'll post here when I've done a calibration test to see how close HDR is, but my understanding is that HDR calibration Standards aren't as easy to guage as SDR. In a way, I often find myself sticking to SDR for movies I haven't seen before, unless it's a movie that really warrents HDR, such as Annihilation.
> 
> HDR done wrongly (wrong settings or mastering) can look very uncinematic.


In case you haven't seen it, there's actually a dedicated thread on HDR calibration for Epson projectors:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html


----------



## KO Abear

*Thinking about pulling the trigger*

I'm ready to upgrade from my 8 year old Panasonic AE 4000 and the 5040 is my number one choice. However, since it is nearly two years past its release point and Epson seems to generally upgrade its PJ's on a two year cycle it is giving me pause. Anyone have any scoop as to when or if Epson is planning on releasing its new models?


----------



## KO Abear

*CIH question*

I will be using a 109" wide 2.35 screen in a CIH setup. The top of the screen will be about 2' from the ceiling and I would like for the center point of the lens of the 5040 to be about 1' from the ceiling. Will the automated zoom and height adjustments be able to hit the mark for both 16:9 and 2:35 given those parameters?


----------



## LumensLover

KO Abear said:


> I'm ready to upgrade from my 8 year old Panasonic AE 4000 and the 5040 is my number one choice. However, since it is nearly two years past its release point and Epson seems to generally upgrade its PJ's on a two year cycle it is giving me pause. Anyone have any scoop as to when or if Epson is planning on releasing its new models?


No one knows at this point.


----------



## KO Abear

SOMEBODY knows! Just nobody who will tell US.


----------



## Uppsalaing

KO Abear said:


> I'm ready to upgrade from my 8 year old Panasonic AE 4000 and the 5040 is my number one choice. However, since it is nearly two years past its release point and Epson seems to generally upgrade its PJ's on a two year cycle it is giving me pause. Anyone have any scoop as to when or if Epson is planning on releasing its new models?


No idea on when the next model is released, but it might make sense to wait a bit/save up and buy the new model or a JVC. For someone who has kept his projector for 8 years, you probably don't want to risk getting one of the failed power supply models, etc...

Don't get me wrong, it's a lovely projector, but hearing the horror stories about failed power supplies in the US, would make me think twice...


----------



## darkangelism

KO Abear said:


> I'm ready to upgrade from my 8 year old Panasonic AE 4000 and the 5040 is my number one choice. However, since it is nearly two years past its release point and Epson seems to generally upgrade its PJ's on a two year cycle it is giving me pause. Anyone have any scoop as to when or if Epson is planning on releasing its new models?


I think they had been announcing CES and releasing around September, so since there was no announcement it probably isn't coming this year.


----------



## robc1976

achanonier said:


> There is indeed some clipping here in the sky (or maybe it's the picture taken by the camera)...
> 
> The news settings seem better however.


These clipped at 58-55% 400ish nits the new ones clip at 76.5% 1000 nit.

I think its my dumb cell phone pics though. And the way the game changes from dawn to dusk, looks about the same on my buddies Sony and that doesn't clip until 3-4,000 he says, never seen a, test pattern on that though. To be honest our epson picture looks as good if not better.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

KO Abear said:


> SOMEBODY knows! Just nobody who will tell US.


Even if they were to release Epson 5050 at the end of the year. It is going to come out an introductory pricing, most likely at $3,000. Epson uses low quality components and it will not be worth anywhere near that price. So then you would have to wait further until the price comes down. So you could be looking at another year before you get a Epson 5040 replacement at the $2,500 price point. No way in hell I would wait that long.


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> The new HDR setting is definitely watchable on sdr 709 content. I was watching regular tv last night and thought the picture looked off and sure enough I had the bc hdr setting on. So I still prefer a proper sdr specific setting but if you have a family that can’t be bothered with such things as changing a setting for different content then the hdr setting will work. I updated the pictures to reflect the most recent and I suspect final changes. I am very happy with the image produced now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Exatly what mine are except some tweaks to offset/gain. These settings are awesome. Well try your 1080P

Just for info, I tested SDR signal on test patterns with these settings add contrast didn't clip until around 8000 nit lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## shoeboo

KO Abear said:


> I'm ready to upgrade from my 8 year old Panasonic AE 4000 and the 5040 is my number one choice. However, since it is nearly two years past its release point and Epson seems to generally upgrade its PJ's on a two year cycle it is giving me pause. Anyone have any scoop as to when or if Epson is planning on releasing its new models?


Considering their past announcement schedule, I would guess by the end of the year. Hoping for an 18Gbps HDMI chipset.
5040UB - June 2016 (CE Week)
5025UB - Nov 2014
5020UB - Sept 2012 (CEDIA)


----------



## Peter DS

*Won't turn on!*

Hi,

After doing a ton of research (mainly here on this site), I went and bought an Epson HC4000 some months ago (around last Christmas in fact) from Amazon, and have been happily using it almost every day since.

Today I used it for a few hours, switched off with the remote, and now find the unit won't turn on at all. Not even the status light shows it's as if its not connected to power.

First I checked the power cable. Did this by connecting my old Benq to the same cable. That thing (Benq) powers on, so the cable seems ok. Switched back the power cable to the HC4000, no power still.

Then I switched to new batteries on the remote for the HC4000. Of course it still doesnt power on.

Short of taking this back to Epson, is there anything I can do?

Thanks!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Peter DS said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> After doing a ton of research (mainly here on this site), I went and bought an Epson HC4000 some months ago (around last Christmas in fact) from Amazon, and have been happily using it almost every day since.
> 
> 
> 
> Today I used it for a few hours, switched off with the remote, and now find the unit won't turn on at all. Not even the status light shows it's as if its not connected to power.
> 
> 
> 
> First I checked the power cable. Did this by connecting my old Benq to the same cable. That thing (Benq) powers on, so the cable seems ok. Switched back the power cable to the HC4000, no power still.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I switched to new batteries on the remote for the HC4000. Of course it still doesnt power on.
> 
> 
> 
> Short of taking this back to Epson, is there anything I can do?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




Nope just had my 5040ube do the same thing. It’s the power supply. If you call now you will have a replacement by tomorrow 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Uppsalaing said:


> No idea on when the next model is released, but it might make sense to wait a bit/save up and buy the new model or a JVC. For someone who has kept his projector for 8 years, you probably don't want to risk getting one of the failed power supply models, etc...
> 
> Don't get me wrong, it's a lovely projector, but hearing the horror stories about failed power supplies in the US, would make me think twice...




Funny thing is when I called tech support I asked if the power supply issue was common and they flat out said no lol. Just irritates me being lied to straight to my face after spending 3k on a product. They really should extending the warranty strictly on power supply issues. My buddy works for an mdc and said virtually every one he’s installed has had the power supply fail at some point. On the upside he said the negative word of mouth on the epsons reliability has gotten him many a jvc sale haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bigbadbob

Just curious if a poll was taken; how many people would be happy with their 5040? I have one, not hooked up yet. It seems recently there's just as much negative about the unit as there is positive or am I just overreacting?


----------



## WynsWrld98

bigbadbob said:


> Just curious if a poll was taken; how many people would be happy with their 5040? I have one, not hooked up yet. It seems recently there's just as much negative about the unit as there is positive or am I just overreacting?


I think it depends on what you plan on using it for. I don't do gaming so the lack of 18 GB HDMI chipset isn't a huge deal to me. The power supply issue is a major concern to I think any 5040/6040 owner wondering when/if it will strike then play refurb Russian Roulette. When/if my power supply fails I'll likely ask for my unit to get repaired vs play refurb Russian Roulette.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

bigbadbob said:


> Just curious if a poll was taken; how many people would be happy with their 5040? I have one, not hooked up yet. It seems recently there's just as much negative about the unit as there is positive or am I just overreacting?




Not unhappy with the image the projector produces in any way shape or form. It’s downright beautiful... But quality control is definitely lacking, my initial unit lasted a whopping 9 days before the power supply went bad. The replacement has an odd red haze over the image in very dark scenes but is a non issue if you have contrast and brightness set correctly. As far as features go I can’t see the “5050” or whatever it will be called producing much better of an image. And yes 18gbps hdmi would be welcome but really is a non issue if you buy an HD Fury Linker. It will likely be an incremental upgrade at best. And it’s not like the quality control will improve, this is pretty much epsons reputation at this point. You will get excellent customer service, fantastic manufactures warranty and cruddy quality control. Realistically the next big leap is probably still a generation or two (or 3 lol) away when we finally get a true 4K led or laser powered unit that produces 5000+ lumens. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

KO Abear said:


> I'm ready to upgrade from my 8 year old Panasonic AE 4000 and the 5040 is my number one choice. However, since it is nearly two years past its release point and Epson seems to generally upgrade its PJ's on a two year cycle it is giving me pause. Anyone have any scoop as to when or if Epson is planning on releasing its new models?


I upgraded from a Panny as well...an AE3000...a year and a half ago. The Panny was a great PJ for its time but the 5040 is so much better in every way...brighter, sharper, improved blacks and contrast, larger color pallet, and of course higher resolution. As others have expressed, its faux 4K image is simply beautiful and upscaled standard 1080 BDs are gorgeous. Also as others have recommended, if you have no need for 18gbps, pull the trigger for the 5040. The real wait for most of us is for true 4K which realistically is 3-5 years away for the technology to stabilize/mature and more importantly fall under the magic $3K MSRP.

Lastly, my unit is about 18 mos old now and has not exhibited any power supply issues. I’m not overly concerned. If it should fail, I will elect to have it repaired rather than exchanged...just my preference. Good luck with your decision!


----------



## KO Abear

gene4ht said:


> I upgraded from a Panny as well...an AE3000...a year and a half ago. The Panny was a great PJ for its time but the 5040 is so much better in every way...brighter, sharper, improved blacks and contrast, larger color pallet, and of course higher resolution. As others have expressed, its faux 4K image is simply beautiful and upscaled standard 1080 BDs are gorgeous. Also as others have recommended, if you have no need for 18gbps, pull the trigger for the 5040. The real wait for most of us is for true 4K which realistically is 3-5 years away for the technology to stabilize/mature and more importantly fall under the magic $3K MSRP.
> 
> Lastly, my unit is about 18 mos old now and has not exhibited any power supply issues. I’m not overly concerned. If it should fail, I will elect to have it repaired rather than exchanged...just my preference. Good luck with your decision!


Thanks Gene! My trigger finger is terribly itchy right now, but reading about all the power supply issues is really the only thing that is putting me off. I keep thinking that the more time that I let pass, the greater the chance is that Epson will make the changes necessary to improve my odds of not having that problem. I've already upgraded all the links in the chain I need to enjoy 4k content. I bought a Marantz 6011 to up grade to Atmos, a Samsung 9500 for UHD playback, the latest ROKU for 4k streaming and upgraded the cables and splitters in the signal chain. My room is light controlled and I have a 2.35 screen for a CIH setup. I am lacking only the last piece of the puzzle and the power supply issues have me leaning towards the HC-4000 because of the seeming much lower incidence of problems compared to the 5040. I have a little vacation planned at the beginning of May, I might just try and wait to return from that before I take the plunge.


----------



## bigbadbob

I wonder how many bad projectors are out there of the 5040... what percent is going bad? I've got mine so I guess i'll be setting it up soon.


----------



## gene4ht

bigbadbob said:


> I wonder how many bad projectors are out there of the 5040... what percent is going bad? I've got mine so I guess i'll be setting it up soon.


Only a small sample size comprised of AVS members but provides a perspective none the less...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...0-6040-9300-uk-power-supply-failure-rate.html


----------



## gene4ht

KO Abear said:


> Thanks Gene! My trigger finger is terribly itchy right now, but reading about all the power supply issues is really the only thing that is putting me off. I keep thinking that the more time that I let pass, the greater the chance is that Epson will make the changes necessary to improve my odds of not having that problem. I've already upgraded all the links in the chain I need to enjoy 4k content. I bought a Marantz 6011 to up grade to Atmos, a Samsung 9500 for UHD playback, the latest ROKU for 4k streaming and upgraded the cables and splitters in the signal chain. My room is light controlled and I have a 2.35 screen for a CIH setup. I am lacking only the last piece of the puzzle and the power supply issues have me leaning towards the HC-4000 because of the seeming much lower incidence of problems compared to the 5040. I have a little vacation planned at the beginning of May, I might just try and wait to return from that before I take the plunge.


The only thing that concerns me a bit is that Epson cannot/will not be totally transparent about recent 5040/6040 power supply failures. Corporate giants are typically too concerned about quarterly spreadsheets and image. Like some enterprises represented in these threads, there's a lot to be learned about transparency, long term customer satisfaction, and sales. Anyway...stepping off the soapbox.

You've gone the 4K upgrade route that most of us have! I would say that faux 4K (pixel shifting) is easily 90%-95% of true 4K...most people likely could not discern the difference unless side by side. Anyway, have a great vacation and let us know what your trigger finger did!


----------



## LumensLover

gene4ht said:


> The only thing that concerns me a bit is that Epson cannot/will not be totally transparent about recent 5040/6040 power supply failures. Corporate giants are typically too concerned about quarterly spreadsheets and image. Like some enterprises represented in these threads, there's a lot to be learned about transparency, long term customer satisfaction, and sales. Anyway...stepping off the soapbox.
> 
> You've gone the 4K upgrade route that most of us have! I would say that faux 4K (pixel shifting) is easily 90%-95% of true 4K...most people likely could not discern the difference unless side by side. Anyway, have a great vacation and let us know what your trigger finger did!


I turned the 4K option off on my 5040. It adds noise to the image and makes it appear overly processed and unnatural. Definitely can't wait for Native 4K panels come out along with more 4k material. But this wobulation fake 4K 
does not impress me at all.


----------



## gene4ht

LumensLover said:


> I turned the 4K option off on my 5040. It adds noise to the image and makes it appear overly processed and unnatural. Definitely can't wait for Native 4K panels come out along with more 4k material. But this wobulation fake 4K is
> does not impress me at all.


Native 4K is obviously the holy grail. I have never experienced the artifacts you've indicated and personally have no issue with pixel shifting and find it very rewarding and watchable...different strokes for different folks as they say.


----------



## subwoofery

LumensLover said:


> I turned the 4K option off on my 5040. It adds noise to the image and makes it appear overly processed and unnatural. Definitely can't wait for Native 4K panels come out along with more 4k material. But this wobulation fake 4K
> does not impress me at all.


Panel alignment maybe? 

Kelvin


----------



## LumensLover

subwoofery said:


> Panel alignment maybe?
> 
> Kelvin


I had the 6040 before this. It had noisy images as well with 4K eshift activated. I just think this is a poor implementation of 4K eshift by Epson. I have a sharp eye and I can detect any noise added to an image. Maybe some others cannot but it does not fool my eye.

Jvc's version of eshift adds some noise to the image as well. But nothing nearly as bad as Epson's version in my opinion.


----------



## subwoofery

LumensLover said:


> I had the 6040 before this. It had noisy images as well with 4K eshift activated. I just think this is a poor implementation of 4K eshift by Epson. I have a sharp eye and I can detect any noise added to an image. Maybe some others cannot but it does not fool my eye.
> 
> Jvc's version of eshift adds some noise to the image as well. But nothing nearly as bad as Epson's version in my opinion.


Noted  

Kelvin


----------



## kbarnes701

LumensLover said:


> I had the 6040 before this. It had noisy images as well with 4K eshift activated. I just think this is a poor implementation of 4K eshift by Epson. I have a sharp eye and I can detect any noise added to an image. Maybe some others cannot but it does not fool my eye.
> 
> Jvc's version of eshift adds some noise to the image as well. But nothing nearly as bad as Epson's version in my opinion.


You seem to be pretty much alone with this opinion. You must have a very special, all-seeing eye


----------



## mraub

I permanently installed my new 5040 last weekend and have been experimenting with some settings. When the lamp is in Eco mode I notice a considerable amount of flickering in the image. At first I thought it might be the automatic iris, but disabling that function made no difference. The flickering completely goes away when I change the lamp mode to Medium. 


I'm wondering if the flickering on Eco mode presages the dreaded power supply failure, or whether it is just a quirk in my unit. Eco mode was too dim for my tastes, so I won't be using it again for that reason. I hate to go to all the trouble of taking it off the ceiling for repair, but if a future power supply failure is likely I'll gut it up and do it.


Thanks.


----------



## megametaman

bigbadbob said:


> Just curious if a poll was taken; how many people would be happy with their 5040? I have one, not hooked up yet. It seems recently there's just as much negative about the unit as there is positive or am I just overreacting?


Yesterday I took mine back to the store to see if they can repair my


----------



## LumensLover

kbarnes701 said:


> You seem to be pretty much alone with this opinion. You must have a very special, all-seeing eye


This topic has been discussed in the over $3,000 projector section. The people that are wowed by Epson eshift and can't see it's flaws tend to be the people in this lower-budget section who have not seen native 4K models from Sony and superior eshift models from JVC.


----------



## Category5

LumensLover said:


> I turned the 4K option off on my 5040. It adds noise to the image and makes it appear overly processed and unnatural. Definitely can't wait for Native 4K panels come out along with more 4k material. But this wobulation fake 4K
> does not impress me at all.





LumensLover said:


> This topic has been discussed in the over $3,000 projector section. The people that are wowed by Epson eshift and can't see it's flaws tend to be the people in this lower-budget section who have not seen native 4K models from Sony and superior eshift models from JVC.


Can you define what 'noise' means to you? Any examples you can point to from movies you've seen?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

LumensLover said:


> I had the 6040 before this. It had noisy images as well with 4K eshift activated. I just think this is a poor implementation of 4K eshift by Epson. I have a sharp eye and I can detect any noise added to an image. Maybe some others cannot but it does not fool my eye.
> 
> 
> 
> Jvc's version of eshift adds some noise to the image as well. But nothing nearly as bad as Epson's version in my opinion.




The 4K enhancement of 1080p sources I find is pretty much garbage but true 4K material with image enhancement turned off is sharp with virtually no noise. As you up the range and strength of the image enhancement settings is when I find it gets noisy. And me like yourself is allergic to image noise lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

Category5 said:


> Can you define what 'noise' means to you? Any examples you can point to from movies you've seen?


 It looks similar to grain found in film photographs, but can also look like splotches of discoloration when it's really bad.


----------



## LumensLover

OrcusVaruna said:


> The 4K enhancement of 1080p sources I find is pretty much garbage but true 4K material with image enhancement turned off is sharp with virtually no noise. As you up the range and strength of the image enhancement settings is when I find it gets noisy. And me like yourself is allergic to image noise lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I concur. Your post mirrors my experience exactly.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Category5 said:


> Can you define what 'noise' means to you? Any examples you can point to from movies you've seen?




Literally every scene in the last jedi lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

OrcusVaruna said:


> Literally every scene in the last jedi lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's shot mostly on 35mm film... it's not noise, it's grain and it's supposed to be there. If the filmmkaers wanted it to be grain free and smooth and sharp they could have shot it on any digital video camera... But they didn't because they want the grain to be there.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Uppsalaing said:


> It's shot mostly on 35mm film... it's not noise, it's grain and it's supposed to be there. If the filmmkaers wanted it to be grain free and smooth and sharp they could have shot it on any digital video camera... But they didn't because they want the grain to be there.




I have to disagree, yes some of it is film grain but most of that is post processing noise due to the ****ty special effects in order to cover up that they are terrible. Which is strange given the budget, but that movie had some of the worst special effects I’ve seen. Flying princess, fathier race scene, bb8 goes mech warrior, etc just terrible special effects and a soft noise riddled image. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Category5

OrcusVaruna said:


> The 4K enhancement of 1080p sources I find is pretty much garbage but true 4K material with image enhancement turned off is sharp with virtually no noise. As you up the range and strength of the image enhancement settings is when I find it gets noisy. And me like yourself is allergic to image noise lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





LumensLover said:


> I had the 6040 before this. It had noisy images as well with 4K eshift activated. I just think this is a poor implementation of 4K eshift by Epson. I have a sharp eye and I can detect any noise added to an image. Maybe some others cannot but it does not fool my eye.
> 
> Jvc's version of eshift adds some noise to the image as well. But nothing nearly as bad as Epson's version in my opinion.



I dont upscale 1080p content either. 4k enhancement and Eshift are 2 different things. The eshift on 4k material works fantastic and gives a much sharper image than 1080p. Success!


----------



## ClerkDante

Has anyone optimized calibration for AppleTV, specifically when using Infuse? I’ve tried a dozen different sets of settings from this thread and results are consistently mixed.


----------



## epetti

*Natural vs Cinema vs Digital Cinema*

Hi. Just bought the 5040 and am going to be setting up for use in the next few days. I've been actively reading this thread and looking at settings and there's one thing that still is not clear to me. Can anyone clearly explain the difference between Natural, Cinema, and Digital Cinema modes? I'm clear on Digital Cinema applying the color filter to allow full DCI-P3 from UHD sources. And Natural most closely matches Rec.709 color space out of the box. So Cinema is the one that is completely unclear to me. Does it or does it not apply the filter? If it does, how is it different from Digital Cinema, and if it doesn't how is it different from Natural?

The trend I'm seeing is that most of the BD Setting recommendations are split between Natural and Cinema depending on personal preference? And most of the UHD recommendations are split between Digital Cinema and Bright Cinema depending on if people prioritize WCG or HDR.


----------



## jwhn

ClerkDante said:


> Has anyone optimized calibration for AppleTV, specifically when using Infuse? I’ve tried a dozen different sets of settings from this thread and results are consistently mixed.



Yes I have done this. Please note that using settings from this thread is in no way calibration. The data that has been shared in the calibration thread clearly show that these 5040s have a high degree of variability out of the box. It also clearly shows that accurate settings will be very different based on your screen size and type, throw distance, data source (e.g. ATV).

Everyone thinks their settings are the greatest. I'm highly confident that measurements would show that any copied settings or those done by eye have pretty large errors. 

So if you want an optimized calibration for the ATV with your set up, by definition that requires a measurement based approach and not copying someone else's settings. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

epetti said:


> Hi. Just bought the 5040 and am going to be setting up for use in the next few days. I've been actively reading this thread and looking at settings and there's one thing that still is not clear to me. Can anyone clearly explain the difference between Natural, Cinema, and Digital Cinema modes? I'm clear on Digital Cinema applying the color filter to allow full DCI-P3 from UHD sources. And Natural most closely matches Rec.709 color space out of the box. So Cinema is the one that is completely unclear to me. Does it or does it not apply the filter? If it does, how is it different from Digital Cinema, and if it doesn't how is it different from Natural?
> 
> The trend I'm seeing is that most of the BD Setting recommendations are split between Natural and Cinema depending on personal preference? And most of the UHD recommendations are split between Digital Cinema and Bright Cinema depending on if people prioritize WCG or HDR.


Cinema also uses the filter you should be able to hear it move into position the same as Digital Cinema
reviewers have found that Dig Cinema is closest to DCI-P3 out of the box as a starting point to calibrate from
At the moment UHD discs are mastered to DCI-P3

Again Natural has been found to be the closest out of the box to Rec.709 as a starting point for calibration

IMO anything else becomes user preference 
many people initially don't like a calibrated image as it is so different to the OOTB default Bright Cinema
The same that applies to the shop / store "dynamic" setting for TV's which is only there to catch your attention against competing manufacturers


----------



## OrcusVaruna

epetti said:


> Hi. Just bought the 5040 and am going to be setting up for use in the next few days. I've been actively reading this thread and looking at settings and there's one thing that still is not clear to me. Can anyone clearly explain the difference between Natural, Cinema, and Digital Cinema modes? I'm clear on Digital Cinema applying the color filter to allow full DCI-P3 from UHD sources. And Natural most closely matches Rec.709 color space out of the box. So Cinema is the one that is completely unclear to me. Does it or does it not apply the filter? If it does, how is it different from Digital Cinema, and if it doesn't how is it different from Natural?
> 
> 
> 
> The trend I'm seeing is that most of the BD Setting recommendations are split between Natural and Cinema depending on personal preference? And most of the UHD recommendations are split between Digital Cinema and Bright Cinema depending on if people prioritize WCG or HDR.




A lot of the variation comes down to screen size/type and room environment. The modes that use the color filter are virtually useless to me as mine is located in my living room with plenty of windows, white walls and almost always some lights on. I also much prefer viewing an image that tracks closer to 7500k then 6500k. Finally, If you want a true calibration hiring an isf or thx technician is worth the $400-600 imo especially if you have a dedicated theater. If your buying this projector your theater build cost has likely cruised well past 5k at this point so think of a calibration as a value added investment haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kbarnes701

mraub said:


> I permanently installed my new 5040 last weekend and have been experimenting with some settings. When the lamp is in Eco mode I notice a considerable amount of flickering in the image. At first I thought it might be the automatic iris, but disabling that function made no difference. The flickering completely goes away when I change the lamp mode to Medium.
> 
> 
> I'm wondering if the flickering on Eco mode presages the dreaded power supply failure, or whether it is just a quirk in my unit. Eco mode was too dim for my tastes, so I won't be using it again for that reason. I hate to go to all the trouble of taking it off the ceiling for repair, but if a future power supply failure is likely I'll gut it up and do it.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


I had to replace my unit due to power supply failure. The original unit exhibited zero flicker in Eco mode. The replacement unit however, does sometimes flicker in Eco mode. As a result, I'd say the two things are not connected and that the flicker is much more likely a bulb issue. I've 'solved' the problem by running in Medium lamp mode and adjusting my settings a little to compensate for the (slight) extra brightness.

I have also read reports of other makes having some flicker in the lowest lamp mode.


----------



## kbarnes701

LumensLover said:


> This topic has been discussed in the over $3,000 projector section. The people that are wowed by Epson eshift and can't see it's flaws tend to be the people in this lower-budget section who have not seen native 4K models from Sony and superior eshift models from JVC.


Ah - I get it now. Elitism is the answer, or the problem, depending on the POV. 

I've seen plenty of high end PJs on demo. I agree that e-shift does not make a PJ a 4K PJ. But eshift is not the pile of garbage you are saying it is by any means.

But the answer to the problem you have is simple: drop $15,000 on a genuine 4K PJ and enjoy.


----------



## blake18

kbarnes701 said:


> LumensLover said:
> 
> 
> 
> This topic has been discussed in the over $3,000 projector section. The people that are wowed by Epson eshift and can't see it's flaws tend to be the people in this lower-budget section who have not seen native 4K models from Sony and superior eshift models from JVC.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah - I get it now. Elitism is the answer, or the problem, depending on the POV. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> I've seen plenty of high end PJs on demo. I agree that e-shift does not make a PJ a 4K PJ. But eshift is not the pile of garbage you are saying it is by any means.
> 
> But the answer to the problem you have is simple: drop $15,000 on a genuine 4K PJ and enjoy.
Click to expand...

I've seen Epsons e-shift in person and it looks great, and for about $2k, it's quite an amazing deal. It's silly elitism to compare projectors costing several thousand more. Epson is the best bang for your buck, easily.


----------



## kbarnes701

blake18 said:


> I've seen Epsons e-shift in person and it looks great, and for about $2k, it's quite an amazing deal. It's silly elitism to compare projectors costing several thousand more. Epson is the best bang for your buck, easily.


+1.


----------



## LumensLover

blake18 said:


> I've seen Epsons e-shift in person and it looks great, and for about $2k, it's quite an amazing deal. It's silly elitism to compare projectors costing several thousand more. Epson is the best bang for your buck, easily.


Fanboy is worse than elitism.


----------



## LumensLover

kbarnes701 said:


> Ah - I get it now. Elitism is the answer, or the problem, depending on the POV.
> 
> I've seen plenty of high end PJs on demo. I agree that e-shift does not make a PJ a 4K PJ. But eshift is not the pile of garbage you are saying it is by any means.
> 
> But the answer to the problem you have is simple: drop $15,000 on a genuine 4K PJ and enjoy.


I don't care about 4K since the content is slim to none. So Epson's e-shift does not make any difference to me because I don't use it. A bunch of bells and whistles such as 3D, eshift, and motorized zoom don't mean anything to me. I'd much rather have a more simplistic, durable model.


----------



## blake18

LumensLover said:


> blake18 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen Epsons e-shift in person and it looks great, and for about $2k, it's quite an amazing deal. It's silly elitism to compare projectors costing several thousand more. Epson is the best bang for your buck, easily.
> 
> 
> 
> Fanboy is worse than elitism.
Click to expand...

Haha, go away.


----------



## kbarnes701

LumensLover said:


> I don't care about 4K since the content is slim to none.


Oh OK. It's just that you seemed to care about it a lot in your earlier posts about it. Content is increasing all the time though. More and more new movies are coming along in UHD disc form. Soon it will be pretty much the norm. I have well over 1000 Blu-rays though, so it will be some time before UHD overtakes that lot. But I am buying the UHD discs now as there is no downside to them, they have immersive audio, and they are the future (in so far as disc based media is).

'Slim to none' is not really accurate.




LumensLover said:


> So Epson's e-shift does not make any difference to me because I don't use it. A bunch of bells and whistles such as 3D, eshift, and motorized zoom don't mean anything to me. I'd much rather have a more simplistic, durable model.


Fair enough. I am always a champion of choice. But since you personally have no use for eshift technologies, why bring up your personal view of them in a thread dedicated to a PJ that uses eshift. It is bound to be inflammatory.

Using a CIH 2.39:1 screen, motorised zoom and lens memories are _essential_ for me. Obviously anyone using a 16:9 screen isn't going to find that feature useful, but that is not to say that somehow it becomes an _alternative_ to a 'simplistic, durable model'. They are not mutually exclusive.

I think, from reading your posts, that you are more inclined to find satisfaction in the 'high end' PJ threads.


----------



## LumensLover

kbarnes701 said:


> Oh OK. It's just that you seemed to care about it a lot in your earlier posts about it. Content is increasing all the time though. More and more new movies are coming along in UHD disc form. Soon it will be pretty much the norm. I have well over 1000 Blu-rays though, so it will be some time before UHD overtakes that lot. But I am buying the UHD discs now as there is no downside to them, they have immersive audio, and they are the future (in so far as disc based media is).
> 
> 'Slim to none' is not really accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fair enough. I am always a champion of choice. But since you personally have no use for eshift technologies, why bring up your personal view of them in a thread dedicated to a PJ that uses eshift. It is bound to be inflammatory.
> 
> Using a CIH 2.39:1 screen, motorised zoom and lens memories are _essential_ for me. Obviously anyone using a 16:9 screen isn't going to find that feature useful, but that is not to say that somehow it becomes an _alternative_ to a 'simplistic, durable model'. They are not mutually exclusive.
> 
> I think, from reading your posts, that you are more inclined to find satisfaction in the 'high end' PJ threads.


Any opinion can be viewed as inflammatory by those who disagree with it. I am free to share my opinion anywhere on this website as long as it not personally offending others. Epson 5040UB does not do eshift well in my opinion. However that does not mean it does not do other things well.

I never stated I cared about eshift. I merely stated Epson's version does not impress me. And at this price point, lots of bells and whistles is mutually exclusive from durability because the mfr is attempting to include so many options and having to use cheaper parts to meet a sub $3,000 price point.

I would have a higher end projector now if there was a brighter option available. However, most of the higher end Sony and JVC projectors tend to be on the dim side. And lumens are crucial to me because I only use alr screens.

Problem is so many mfrs are going with low hanging fruit such as fake 4k, 3d etc instead of focusing on crucial elements for superior image quality such as higher contrast, lens quality, and higher lumen color accurate modes.


----------



## mraub

When you use the term "filter" do you mean an actual glass or acetate filter gets put into the light path, or is this some sort of electronic filter. I've never been clear about that.


Thanks.




Lesmor said:


> Cinema also uses the filter


----------



## mraub

Thanks for the information. In my setup, Medium lamp power produces what I perceive as the ideal level of illumination so I will just ignore the fact the Eco mode flickers--at least until something more serious goes wrong (knock wood). My unit had the latest firmware and hopefully was manufactured after Epson sorted out the power supply issues. The 5040 seems to be at the peak of the diminishing returns curve. I've seen the $25K JVC 4K laser and while it probably produces a bit better image than the 5040, it is nowhere near 10X better.






kbarnes701 said:


> I had to replace my unit due to power supply failure. The original unit exhibited zero flicker in Eco mode. The replacement unit however, does sometimes flicker in Eco mode. As a result, I'd say the two things are not connected and that the flicker is much more likely a bulb issue. I've 'solved' the problem by running in Medium lamp mode and adjusting my settings a little to compensate for the (slight) extra brightness.
> 
> I have also read reports of other makes having some flicker in the lowest lamp mode.


----------



## LumensLover

mraub said:


> Thanks for the information. In my setup, Medium lamp power produces what I perceive as the ideal level of illumination so I will just ignore the fact the Eco mode flickers--at least until something more serious goes wrong (knock wood). My unit had the latest firmware and hopefully was manufactured after Epson sorted out the power supply issues. The 5040 seems to be at the peak of the diminishing returns curve. I've seen the $25K JVC 4K laser and while it probably produces a bit better image than the 5040, it is nowhere near 10X better.


I concur. My JVC X550R showed a better picture than the Epson 5040UB when it comes to movies. However, It's image quality was around 20% better. Not a huge gap. And the JVC showed a dim image once the bulb passed 500 hours. Adding to that problem, JVC price gouges on their lamps so replacement is expensive.


----------



## blake18

LumensLover said:


> mraub said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the information. In my setup, Medium lamp power produces what I perceive as the ideal level of illumination so I will just ignore the fact the Eco mode flickers--at least until something more serious goes wrong (knock wood). My unit had the latest firmware and hopefully was manufactured after Epson sorted out the power supply issues. The 5040 seems to be at the peak of the diminishing returns curve. I've seen the $25K JVC 4K laser and while it probably produces a bit better image than the 5040, it is nowhere near 10X better.
> 
> 
> 
> I concur. My JVC X550R showed a better picture than the Epson 5040UB when it comes to movies. However, It's image quality was around 20% better. Not a huge gap. And the JVC showed a dim image once the bulb passed 500 hours. Adding to that problem, JVC price gouges on their lamps so replacement is expensive.
Click to expand...

Yet another couple reasons I do not like JVC and wouldn't seriously consider them. Charging several thousand for a projector, then having horrible bulb life span and very expensive bulbs is just a non starter. My issue with Sony is how horrendously stingy they are with warranties. No thanks on either. 

I know it bugs you that I like Epson so much, but oh well, it's not meant to offend you, I have solid reasons. I find it a bit nonsensical that you are coming into the Epson thread as a non Epson owner and getting offended by those of us that say how much love our Epson projectors.


----------



## Uppsalaing

There is always the laser epson, as an option...

I think the picture quality of the 5040/6040/9300 models are solid... Beats most commercial cinemas apart from the the very high end ones... Whether 1080p or e-shift fauxK.

So we're really splitting hairs here... And most people aren't even in rooms that do these projectors justice, i.e. non-light sealed, light walls/ceiling, etc... or are projecting at sizes and distences thst don't make 4k an issue for movies... So the JVCs and higher end Sony's would be wasted on them...

It would be nice to spend an extra 10-15% and get more reliability, but that is not really an option...


----------



## mraub

One thing I have learned about the audio/video world (playing with this stuff for >35 years) is that equating selling price with quality is a fool's errand--at least beyond a certain threshold level. Some years ago one of the high-end audio magazines put a number of speakers behind an acoustically transparent cloth. Some of the speakers had very modest price tags; while others cost as much as a small car. Much to the author's surprise, I think, listeners had no special preference for the pricy speakers; some liked them while others preferred the bargain basement option. The magazine did not repeat this experiment since much of its ad revenue came from expensive gear manufacturers.


Though I have never seen this done, my guess is that if you put a 5040 and a top of the line Sony or JVC projecting on side-by-side on identical screens, calibrating both for their best images and matching their light outputs, some viewers would prefer each as showing the best image. And if the viewers were ordinary citizens, lacking the HT gene, they would probably shrug their shoulders and call them equal. It would be interesting to put together an experiment like this, though not many of us have a HT room big enough to accommodate two side-by-side screens. 


Blind testing (meaning you judge only the outcome and are purposely ignorant of how it was produced) is the touchstone of most true sciences; it is almost completely ignored in AV science.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Man this Fauxk looks terrible...







I just can’t really tell the difference between true 4K and fauxk at a normal seating distance. The image is a touch softer then my vizio when I pause a scene but once video starts playing I really struggle to see much of a difference in apparent resolution. I would much prefer a 5000 lumen laser or led light source epson ub then a true 4K anything. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

blake18 said:


> Yet another couple reasons I do not like JVC and wouldn't seriously consider them. Charging several thousand for a projector, then having horrible bulb life span and very expensive bulbs is just a non starter. My issue with Sony is how horrendously stingy they are with warranties. No thanks on either.
> 
> I know it bugs you that I like Epson so much, but oh well, it's not meant to offend you, I have solid reasons. I find it a bit nonsensical that you are coming into the Epson thread as a non Epson owner and getting offended by those of us that say how much love our Epson projectors.


This is not a "I love Epson" thread. This is also not a "I just upgraded from a 10 year old Epson projector to a 5 year old Epson projector and it's awesome" thread. You are in the Epson 5040 owners thread. I own a Epson 5040. Last I checked, you do not own a 5040. I'm not going to try to tell someone where they can post as others do here. But I'm not seeing the logic as to why you're posting in this owners thread.


----------



## LumensLover

mraub said:


> One thing I have learned about the audio/video world (playing with this stuff for >35 years) is that equating selling price with quality is a fool's errand--at least beyond a certain threshold level. Some years ago one of the high-end audio magazines put a number of speakers behind an acoustically transparent cloth. Some of the speakers had very modest price tags; while others cost as much as a small car. Much to the author's surprise, I think, listeners had no special preference for the pricy speakers; some liked them while others preferred the bargain basement option. The magazine did not repeat this experiment since much of its ad revenue came from expensive gear manufacturers.
> 
> 
> Though I have never seen this done, my guess is that if you put a 5040 and a top of the line Sony or JVC projecting on side-by-side on identical screens, calibrating both for their best images and matching their light outputs, some viewers would prefer each as showing the best image. And if the viewers were ordinary citizens, lacking the HT gene, they would probably shrug their shoulders and call them equal. It would be interesting to put together an experiment like this, though not many of us have a HT room big enough to accommodate two side-by-side screens.
> 
> 
> Blind testing (meaning you judge only the outcome and are purposely ignorant of how it was produced) is the touchstone of most true sciences; it is almost completely ignored in AV science.


I've seen the JVC 550 and the Epson 5040 side by side. Actually watched them for over an hour before I made a purchase. JVC had discernibly better black levels during dark scenes with movies. However, the Epson had more perceived sharpness and was much brighter.


----------



## dimi123

LumensLover said:


> I had the 6040 before this. It had noisy images as well with 4K eshift activated. I just think this is a poor implementation of 4K eshift by Epson. I have a sharp eye and I can detect any noise added to an image. Maybe some others cannot but it does not fool my eye.





OrcusVaruna said:


> The 4K enhancement of 1080p sources I find is pretty much garbage but true 4K material with image enhancement turned off is sharp with virtually no noise. As you up the range and strength of the image enhancement settings is when I find it gets noisy. And me like yourself is allergic to image noise lol


If you feed the Epson a 4K signal, even an up-scaled one, the difference is night & day. That's why I have my HTPC and Oppo output everything at 2160p to the PJ. Compare a Windows explorer desktop picture at 1080p with 4K enhancement ON against the same picture at 4K resolution with Image Enhancement at 1 or 2. There's almost no noise whatsoever and sharpness is outstanding.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

dimi123 said:


> If you feed the Epson a 4K signal, even an up-scaled one, the difference is night & day. That's why I have my HTPC and Oppo output everything at 2160p to the PJ. Compare a Windows explorer desktop picture at 1080p with 4K enhancement ON against the same picture at 4K resolution with Image Enhancement at 1 or 2. There's almost no noise whatsoever and sharpness is outstanding.




Couldn’t agree more. My Xbox one x and Apple TV are set to output everything at 4K resolution as well and my experience is exactly the same as yours. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

LumensLover said:


> I've seen the JVC 550 and the Epson 5040 side by side. Actually watched them for over an hour before I made a purchase. JVC had discernibly better black levels during dark scenes with movies. However, the Epson had more perceived sharpness and was much brighter.




From what I have read the perceived sharpness comes from e-shift having more space between each pixel on 3lcd panels to work with vs the same type of shifting on an lcos panel. But I too compared them heavily before buying and would have bought the jvc if I had a dedicated theater hands down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

mraub said:


> When you use the term "filter" do you mean an actual glass or acetate filter gets put into the light path, or is this some sort of electronic filter. I've never been clear about that.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


I believe it is a glass filter
certainly not electronic filter as you wouldn't hear that moving into position


----------



## robc1976

Is 1.11 the latest firmware still? Somebody stated there is newer? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

I want to say that my 6040 has played flawlessly since I returned it for a new one, not refurbished. The first one was showing ghosting/crosstalk.


The only thing that is hard to deal with is trying to get a PERFECT picture! Constantly toying with the calibrations (too damn many film modes) is so time consuming. ..other than that I love this PJ.


----------



## LoneWolf121188

Does anyone have an educated guess on when we might see a 5040 update with a full 18Gbps HDMI chip? I just returned mine to Crutchfield because, while I LOVED the picture, I couldn't justify spending $2500 on something that I'll be keeping for 5+ years but doesn't support the "full" HDMI standard.


----------



## pedromvu

*HDR Settings on Shield TV*

Hi, recently got one of these after being very happy with a low entry Benq-W1070 for around 3 years, but unfortunately it started to get color wheel problems that in the process of cleaning it got dust deeper in the lens and it is now a pain to completely fix.

I must say after several days of tweaking the settings, I am quite impressed so far, especially with black levels, Brightness is not that much different I think, except that the uniformity of the Benq was pretty bad leaving one part of the screen way dimmer than the other, so overall this is brighter.

One thing I still have some problems in SDR is the color red, it's quite hard to get it the same as I had it with previous projector, but I am not really sure the other was correct, its just what I am used to.

Anyway the reason I came here is to ask if anybody has any idea why HDR settings on Shield TV behave so differently than on blu ray players.

I have been adjusting my settings for HDR based on some info posted here, and was finally able to get the image bright enough for my current 113 inch screen (Supposed to be 120, but need to make a hole in the back wall to fit it) in Digital Cinema mode to take advantage of DCI P3 color, I've been testing with a Sony X700 with Blade Runner 2049, and it looks great.

Unfortunately using those settings on the Shield TV in 23.97hz 4:2:2 (same as blu ray player), on Netflix it's noticeable there is something wrong (Note that with these settings I am only getting HDR content at 1080p).

I have yet to test the Netflix app on the sony player to see if it is a problem with the Netflix app or Shield, but I believe I also tested Amazon app on Shield with the same problem.

Weird thing is I also have a Vizio M65-E0 that doesn't have that problem, same settings seem to work fine in both Shield TV and Sony X700.

Side question: For regular blu rays, should I just let The Sony player scale the image to 4k before sending to the Epson, or is the Epson supposed to do a better job at that? The Epson seems to do a better job compared to Shield TV, but it appears it is a known issue of the Shield.

Edit: Just read a few posts back, and they seem to indicate it would be better to send the Epson an already upscaled 4k signal, will need to do some comparisons.


----------



## jwhn

pedromvu said:


> Hi, recently got one of these after being very happy with a low entry Benq-W1070 for around 3 years, but unfortunately it started to get color wheel problems that in the process of cleaning it got dust deeper in the lens and it is now a pain to completely fix.
> 
> I must say after several days of tweaking the settings, I am quite impressed so far, especially with black levels, Brightness is not that much different I think, except that the uniformity of the Benq was pretty bad leaving one part of the screen way dimmer than the other, so overall this is brighter.
> 
> One thing I still have some problems in SDR is the color red, it's quite hard to get it the same as I had it with previous projector, but I am not really sure the other was correct, its just what I am used to.
> 
> Anyway the reason I came here is to ask if anybody has any idea why HDR settings on Shield TV behave so differently than on blu ray players.
> 
> I have been adjusting my settings for HDR based on some info posted here, and was finally able to get the image bright enough for my current 113 inch screen (Supposed to be 120, but need to make a hole in the back wall to fit it) in Digital Cinema mode to take advantage of DCI P3 color, I've been testing with a Sony X700 with Blade Runner 2049, and it looks great.
> 
> Unfortunately using those settings on the Shield TV in 23.97hz 4:2:2 (same as blu ray player), on Netflix it's noticeable there is something wrong (Note that with these settings I am only getting HDR content at 1080p).
> 
> I have yet to test the Netflix app on the sony player to see if it is a problem with the Netflix app or Shield, but I believe I also tested Amazon app on Shield with the same problem.
> 
> Weird thing is I also have a Vizio M65-E0 that doesn't have that problem, same settings seem to work fine in both Shield TV and Sony X700.
> 
> Side question: For regular blu rays, should I just let The Sony player scale the image to 4k before sending to the Epson, or is the Epson supposed to do a better job at that? The Epson seems to do a better job compared to Shield TV, but it appears it is a known issue of the Shield.
> 
> Edit: Just read a few posts back, and they seem to indicate it would be better to send the Epson an already upscaled 4k signal, will need to do some comparisons.


It's pretty difficult to give you good advice beyond "turn down the red". Best solution is do a measurement-based calibration. 

I would not use the recommended 4K 59hz setting on the shield for SDR. It has been shown through measurement to be flawed. Try using the 23.976 settings and see if that helps. 

I would also not let the Shield upscale as it does not do this well. And I don't think that is what people were saying anyway. I believe they were saying send it a 4K signal. I think the Epson will upscale better than most streaming devices.


----------



## pedromvu

jwhn said:


> It's pretty difficult to give you good advice beyond "turn down the red". Best solution is do a measurement-based calibration.
> 
> I would not use the recommended 4K 59hz setting on the shield for SDR. It has been shown through measurement to be flawed. Try using the 23.976 settings and see if that helps.
> 
> I would also not let the Shield upscale as it does not do this well. And I don't think that is what people were saying anyway. I believe they were saying send it a 4K signal. I think the Epson will upscale better than most streaming devices.


From what I read they said send a 4K signal, even an upscaled one, anyway the problem is that at 4K 23.976 the shield Netflix app doesn't offer 4K content, only at 59.96hz which I guess is a bug as Amazon does support it. So for Netflix is either 1080p HDR at 23.976 or 4K only at 59.96hz.

Anyway I will go to do some more tests.


----------



## jwhn

pedromvu said:


> From what I read they said send a 4K signal, even an upscaled one, anyway the problem is that at 4K 23.976 the shield Netflix app doesn't offer 4K content, only at 59.96hz which I guess is a bug as Amazon does support it. So for Netflix is either 1080p HDR at 23.976 or 4K only at 59.96hz.
> 
> Anyway I will go to do some more tests.


Again, I would not let the shield upscale.

The Netflix issue is well documented. I know the thread is long but it's been discussed probably 20 times. ; )


----------



## OrcusVaruna

LoneWolf121188 said:


> Does anyone have an educated guess on when we might see a 5040 update with a full 18Gbps HDMI chip? I just returned mine to Crutchfield because, while I LOVED the picture, I couldn't justify spending $2500 on something that I'll be keeping for 5+ years but doesn't support the "full" HDMI standard.




No word yet on new hardware but the purchase of an hd fury linker pretty much renders the 18gbps chipset a non issue. Yes it’s an extra $200 tacked in to the cost but it allows me to game happily in 8bit 60hz hdr. Yes the projector will never support Dolby Vision but I’m skeptical how far that format will go anyway. Even so I have a tv that displays Dolby Vision and I struggle to see much benefit outside of a bit more very dark scene detail. So what I’m trying to say is the 5040 is a great projector and I don’t think you will be unhappy 3 years from not if your unfortunately atill “stuck” with it lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

OrcusVaruna said:


> No word yet on new hardware but the purchase of an hd fury linker pretty much renders the 18gbps chipset a non issue. Yes it’s an extra $200 tacked in to the cost but it allows me to game happily in 8bit 60hz hdr. Yes* the projector will never support Dolby Vision* but I’m skeptical how far that format will go anyway. Even so I have a tv that displays Dolby Vision and I struggle to see much benefit outside of a bit more very dark scene detail. So what I’m trying to say is the 5040 is a great projector and I don’t think you will be unhappy 3 years from not if your unfortunately atill “stuck” with it lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


For now and even into the near future, it is unlikely that any projector (not just Epson) will support DV due to technical challenges for PJ's that flat panel displays do not have.


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> I’m glad it’s working so well! The blue makes sense as my screen applies a very generous blue push to the image.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What is the reasoning for -5 lens iris in your settings? I honestly always had mine at 0 and never messed with it. What does it do? Something with light output? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikesp1

*Oppo bt2020 sdr conversion*

Anyone experience with bt2020 to sdr onversion with oppo and this projector?
Thoughts, calibration settings?


----------



## roland6465

robc1976 said:


> What is the reasoning for -5 lens iris in your settings? I honestly always had mine at 0 and never messed with it. What does it do? Something with light output?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yes, closing the iris restricts light output and increases contrast. I run my settings a little "hot", and use a -8 iris to darken the image some.


----------



## JewDaddy

blake18 said:


> I've seen Epsons e-shift in person and it looks great, and for about $2k, it's quite an amazing deal. It's silly elitism to compare projectors costing several thousand more. Epson is the best bang for your buck, easily.




One of my buddies who is also an A/V enthusiast like myself bought the Sony VPL-W665es. I’ve been over there a few times to watch movies and play games to try and compare the difference between true 4K and e-shift faux 4K. I have to say for the price difference, it’s just not worth it. I truly didn’t notice the difference between native and e-shift. In fact, I thought his Sony had more noise in the picture and the HDR wasn’t near as bright. It also can’t do Frame Interpolation with 4K content, only 1080p like the Epson and the HDMI Chipset is also limited to 10.2 which means no HDR while playing games. I would say I felt sorry for him for paying so much but the dude owns his own company and lives down in Miami FL so he’s doing good for himself. It did however make me feel good to know that the Epson looks just as good and in some cases even better than a $15,000 native 4K Sony. Way to go Epson!!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> What is the reasoning for -5 lens iris in your settings? I honestly always had mine at 0 and never messed with it. What does it do? Something with light output?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Yes the point of the manual iris is to pump contrast since you can use a high lamp mode and restrict light output at the same time. Helps to keep brighter whites while also getting deeper blacks at the same time. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LoneWolf121188

OrcusVaruna said:


> No word yet on new hardware but the purchase of an hd fury linker pretty much renders the 18gbps chipset a non issue. Yes it’s an extra $200 tacked in to the cost but it allows me to game happily in 8bit 60hz hdr. Yes the projector will never support Dolby Vision but I’m skeptical how far that format will go anyway. Even so I have a tv that displays Dolby Vision and I struggle to see much benefit outside of a bit more very dark scene detail. So what I’m trying to say is the 5040 is a great projector and I don’t think you will be unhappy 3 years from not if your unfortunately atill “stuck” with it lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's a good point...I may have to reconsider!


----------



## nwbearcat21

So I use the settings posted recently in this thread and last night I was watching Captain America Civil war on Blu Ray using the 4k settings listed above. It looked great and very detailed and great color. Then I put in Star Trek 4k disc using the 4K Settings also and I thought it looked like crap. Am I doing something wrong? It was just very dull color most scenes and not near as much detail. I am using a Xbox one x as my player currently if that matters. The other thing is when I watch 4K streaming it looks great. It's just when I put in a 4k disc. Thanks for the help!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

nwbearcat21 said:


> So I use the settings posted recently in this thread and last night I was watching Captain America Civil war on Blu Ray using the 4k settings listed above. It looked great and very detailed and great color. Then I put in Star Trek 4k disc using the 4K Settings also and I thought it looked like crap. Am I doing something wrong? It was just very dull color most scenes and not near as much detail. I am using a Xbox one x as my player currently if that matters. The other thing is when I watch 4K streaming it looks great. It's just when I put in a 4k disc. Thanks for the help!




Which exact settings are you using. Just reply to that post to pull it forward 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

nwbearcat21 said:


> So I use the settings posted recently in this thread and last night I was watching Captain America Civil war on Blu Ray using the 4k settings listed above. It looked great and very detailed and great color. Then I put in Star Trek 4k disc using the 4K Settings also and I thought it looked like crap. Am I doing something wrong? It was just very dull color most scenes and not near as much detail. I am using a Xbox one x as my player currently if that matters. The other thing is when I watch 4K streaming it looks great. It's just when I put in a 4k disc. Thanks for the help!


When that happens, go to info tab as make sure your getting a 4K signal, HDR ect. If not it will make picture lol terrible.

Did you switch between settings? If so the signal menu has to be manual set each time.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes the point of the manual iris is to pump contrast since you can use a high lamp mode and restrict light output at the same time. Helps to keep brighter whites while also getting deeper blacks at the same time.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So not negative = more contrast? Want to experiment with this setting...could possibly help with clipping? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

roland6465 said:


> Yes, closing the iris restricts light output and increases contrast. I run my settings a little "hot", and use a -8 iris to darken the image some.


Great info! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

JewDaddy said:


> One of my buddies who is also an A/V enthusiast like myself bought the Sony VPL-W665es. I’ve been over there a few times to watch movies and play games to try and compare the difference between true 4K and e-shift faux 4K. I have to say for the price difference, it’s just not worth it. I truly didn’t notice the difference between native and e-shift. In fact, I thought his Sony had more noise in the picture and the HDR wasn’t near as bright. It also can’t do Frame Interpolation with 4K content, only 1080p like the Epson and the HDMI Chipset is also limited to 10.2 which means no HDR while playing games. I would say I felt sorry for him for paying so much but the dude owns his own company and lives down in Miami FL so he’s doing good for himself. It did however make me feel good to know that the Epson looks just as good and in some cases even better than a $15,000 native 4K Sony. Way to go Epson!!!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I notice same thing, my buddies Sony is around $12,000 and was pissed my budget projector puts out image close to his

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## nwbearcat21

robc1976 said:


> Exatly what mine are except some tweaks to offset/gain. These settings are awesome. Well try your 1080P
> 
> Just for info, I tested SDR signal on test patterns with these settings add contrast didn't clip until around 8000 nit lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


There are the settings I was using. I will check the signal tonight and see if that was the issue also.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> So not negative = more contrast? Want to experiment with this setting...could possibly help with clipping?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




No the more negative the more the iris is closed to more light is restricted. You have to experiment but I find between -5&-8 is best for my screen and environment. If you have an ideal theater and a neutral white screen you can really get aggressive with the iris and run eco lamp mode with -20 on the manual iris and high speed on the auto iris to throw up a super dark black. As far as I know it doesn’t help with clipping as I think it’s after the lcd panel. I’m sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in and let you know for sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

nwbearcat21 said:


> There are the settings I was using. I will check the signal tonight and see if that was the issue also.




Yes I would check to see what is being pushed to your display. Also make sure your Blu-ray app is up to date because even accounting for differences in sample, screen, and room it shouldn’t look bad. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## blake18

JewDaddy said:


> blake18 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen Epsons e-shift in person and it looks great, and for about $2k, it's quite an amazing deal. It's silly elitism to compare projectors costing several thousand more. Epson is the best bang for your buck, easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my buddies who is also an A/V enthusiast like myself bought the Sony VPL-W665es. I’ve been over there a few times to watch movies and play games to try and compare the difference between true 4K and e-shift faux 4K. I have to say for the price difference, it’s just not worth it. I truly didn’t notice the difference between native and e-shift. In fact, I thought his Sony had more noise in the picture and the HDR wasn’t near as bright. It also can’t do Frame Interpolation with 4K content, only 1080p like the Epson and the HDMI Chipset is also limited to 10.2 which means no HDR while playing games. I would say I felt sorry for him for paying so much but the dude owns his own company and lives down in Miami FL so he’s doing good for himself. It did however make me feel good to know that the Epson looks just as good and in some cases even better than a $15,000 native 4K Sony. Way to go Epson!!!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yep, this is exactly what I'm talking about. I've seen much more expensive projectors that do not look better than my Epson. People who spend $5000-$15,000+ on a projector are the same people that buy into Wilson Audio being better than other much less expensive speaker brands. Something being more pricey certainly does not make it better, in many cases. 

Sony's terrible warranty stinginess and JVC's huge price gouging on bulbs that dim way, way too early, on top of their ridiculous price tags, are complete non-starters. I know people have issues with Epson QC, but I personally never have and they always honor their warranty and sometimes even help for free outside the warranty.


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> No the more negative the more the iris is closed to more light is restricted. You have to experiment but I find between -5&-8 is best for my screen and environment. If you have an ideal theater and a neutral white screen you can really get aggressive with the iris and run eco lamp mode with -20 on the manual iris and high speed on the auto iris to throw up a super dark black. As far as I know it doesn’t help with clipping as I think it’s after the lcd panel. I’m sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in and let you know for sure.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My theater had complete matte black, walls, ceiling, black carpet and stuwart screen so I will play with this setting. So will I have to adjust brightness as well?









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

robc1976 said:


> My theater had complete matte black, walls, ceiling, black carpet and stuwart screen so I will play with this setting. So will I have to adjust brightness as well?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Picture is kinda dark but from what I can see, your theater looks awesome! Love the white and red panels on the ceiling. Excuse my ignorance but are they just for looks or something else?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> My theater had complete matte black, walls, ceiling, black carpet and stuwart screen so I will play with this setting. So will I have to adjust brightness as well?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Wow that is an awesome theater puts my living room to shame . But no just like the auto iris it’s completely independent of your picture settings. Just a general way to adjust light output without negatively impacting picture.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## blake18

OrcusVaruna said:


> LoneWolf121188 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have an educated guess on when we might see a 5040 update with a full 18Gbps HDMI chip? I just returned mine to Crutchfield because, while I LOVED the picture, I couldn't justify spending $2500 on something that I'll be keeping for 5+ years but doesn't support the "full" HDMI standard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No word yet on new hardware but the purchase of an hd fury linker pretty much renders the 18gbps chipset a non issue. Yes it’s an extra $200 tacked in to the cost but it allows me to game happily in 8bit 60hz hdr. Yes the projector will never support Dolby Vision but I’m skeptical how far that format will go anyway. Even so I have a tv that displays Dolby Vision and I struggle to see much benefit outside of a bit more very dark scene detail. So what I’m trying to say is the 5040 is a great projector and I don’t think you will be unhappy 3 years from not if your unfortunately atill “stuck” with it lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Any chance that HD Fury linker would allow for 10 or 12 bit deep color and HDR?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

blake18 said:


> Any chance that HD Fury linker would allow for 10 or 12 bit deep color and HDR?



Not at 60hz at 24hz yes it will pass up to 12bit hdr. The best the current chipset can process at 60hz is 8bit hdr. But with that said if I set my tv up right next to my projector fed the same content it’s hard to tell the difference. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Wow that is an awesome theater puts my living room to shame . But no just like the auto iris it’s completely independent of your picture settings. Just a general way to adjust light output without negatively impacting picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Awesome setup and I love that theater, best settings I have ever used came from that theater lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Awesome setup and I love that theater, best settings I have ever used came from that theater lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Ha thanks man. I have the setup that makes AV nerds cringe white walls, elite screen, and sonos 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## timmyotule

LumensLover said:


> I concur. My JVC X550R showed a better picture than the Epson 5040UB when it comes to movies. However, It's image quality was around 20% better. Not a huge gap. And the JVC showed a dim image once the bulb passed 500 hours. Adding to that problem, JVC price gouges on their lamps so replacement is expensive.


What is your source on the dim JVC bulbs after 500 hours for the RS400 and newer models? I'm seeing reports of 10% light loss after 2000 hours which is incredibly good for a projector bulb. I think you're referring to older models.



> Andreas21: A friend of mines RS600 with over 2000 hours on the lamp only has a 10% lightloss since new, I have calibrated it several times and it has been incredible stable. After the initial gamma drop I have only done minor tweeks to get reference results, meaning all delta E´s under 1 in both grayscale (21 point) and colorspace (saturation sweeps in Calman). This is about the same with all JVC´s I have followed the last years and what Cine4Home says about the unstability of the gamma and it takes about 1,5 years for it to get stabilize is not my experience. In my and many others experience the gamma stabilizes in around 2-300 hours. Another friend of mines RS540 the gamma has not dropped at all in 200 hours.
> 
> The same can not be said of Sony projectors, they are very unstable and loose about 20-30% light in the first 100-200 hours. The worst I have seen is 40% in 200 hours.


----------



## ayrton

Mikesp1 said:


> Anyone experience with bt2020 to sdr onversion with oppo and this projector?
> Thoughts, calibration settings?


Using Oppo 203 bt2020 SDR and love it. (Not the "Strip HDR") I think I'm using Oledurt's "Bright Cinema" settings on the PJ..


----------



## OrcusVaruna

These Apple TV 4K screen savers are straight up demo material. Also, I really am a big fan of the elite alr screens the cinegrey 3d is pretty amazing for its price. Brings up a good question though is anyone using a black diamond 1.4 with this projector? If so I would love to hear your thoughts. The Best Buy credit card is paid off and burning a hole in my pocket 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## timmyotule

LumensLover said:


> I would have a higher end projector now if there was a brighter option available. However, most of the higher end Sony and JVC projectors tend to be on the dim side. And lumens are crucial to me because I only use alr screens.
> 
> Problem is so many mfrs are going with low hanging fruit ... instead of focusing on crucial elements for superior image quality such as ... higher lumen color accurate modes.


What mode are you using your Epson in? Where are you in the zoom range of the projector? The reviews I've seen show the JVC being slightly brighter in the accurate color modes for REC709 and quite a bit brighter for BT.2020 (although the RS4x0 only reaches around 90% of the BT.2020 gamut). From what I've read the Epson only has an edge with it set to Dynamic which doesn't have the best color accuracy. Is this the mode you're using?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

timmyotule said:


> What mode are you using your Epson in? Where are you in the zoom range of the projector? The reviews I've seen show the JVC being slightly brighter in the accurate color modes for REC709 and quite a bit brighter for BT.2020 (although the RS4x0 only reaches around 90% of the BT.2020 gamut). From what I've read the Epson only has an edge with it set to Dynamic which doesn't have the best color accuracy. Is this the mode you're using?




Idk but my 5040 according to my iPhone is putting out over 2400 lumens of light in calibrated natural mode for rec 709 content. For hdr with the color filter yes it puts out less then the jvc at about 1000 lumens. In bright cinema with hdr source it’s putting out over 2000 lumens bit is not hitting anywhere close to the rec 2020 standard. But I’d rather reap the benefits of improved contrast over marginally better color any day. So in my book the epson trounces the jvc for hdr. It’s pretty amazing when you lock this projector on some good hdr settings it rivals if not beats my tv. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

OrcusVaruna said:


> Idk but my 5040 according to my iPhone is putting out over 2400 lumens of light in calibrated natural mode for rec 709 content. For hdr with the color filter yes it puts out less then the jvc at about 1000 lumens. In bright cinema with hdr source it’s putting out over 2000 lumens bit is not hitting anywhere close to the rec 2020 standard. But I’d rather reap the benefits of improved contrast over marginally better color any day. So in my book the epson trounces the jvc for hdr. It’s pretty amazing when you lock this projector on some good hdr settings it rivals if not beats my tv.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I’m also literally as close as you can put the projector to my 100” screen. I had to rig a custom mount just to hang it far enough to fill my screen. So I’m getting the most light I can put of the projector. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

timmyotule said:


> What is your source on the dim JVC bulbs after 500 hours for the RS400 and newer models? I'm seeing reports of 10% light loss after 2000 hours which is incredibly good for a projector bulb. I think you're referring to older models.


My source is the JVC X550R I owned and my eyeballs.


----------



## LumensLover

OrcusVaruna said:


> These Apple TV 4K screen savers are straight up demo material. Also, I really am a big fan of the elite alr screens the cinegrey 3d is pretty amazing for its price. Brings up a good question though is anyone using a black diamond 1.4 with this projector? If so I would love to hear your thoughts. The Best Buy credit card is paid off and burning a hole in my pocket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was using a Black Diamond 1.4 with my Epson 6040. The brightness of the Epson combined with the Black Diamond's ability to retain relatively deep black levels under moderate amounts of ambient light made a great combination.


----------



## LumensLover

timmyotule said:


> What mode are you using your Epson in? Where are you in the zoom range of the projector? The reviews I've seen show the JVC being slightly brighter in the accurate color modes for REC709 and quite a bit brighter for BT.2020 (although the RS4x0 only reaches around 90% of the BT.2020 gamut). From what I've read the Epson only has an edge with it set to Dynamic which doesn't have the best color accuracy. Is this the mode you're using?


I never use dynamic mode. I only use natural and bright Cinema modes. I am a color accuracy junkie however I am willing to give up some color accuracy for increased brightness which is what bright cinema mode gives me. The Epson in bright cinema mode on eco appears as bright as the JVC X550R was in high lamp mode.


----------



## jwhn

LumensLover said:


> I never use dynamic mode. I only use natural and bright Cinema modes. I am a color accuracy junkie however I am willing to give up some color accuracy for increased brightness which is what bright cinema mode gives me. The Epson in bright cinema mode on eco appears as bright as the JVC X550R was in high lamp mode.



Actually those of use using meters have seen that natural is as bright or even brighter than bright cinema. The main thing you get with bright cinema is less accurate colors. Natural is actually slightly brighter than bright cinema for everyone who has posted results and has bothered to take an objective approach.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

timmyotule said:


> What is your source on the dim JVC bulbs after 500 hours for the RS400 and newer models? I'm seeing reports of 10% light loss after 2000 hours which is incredibly good for a projector bulb.


Yes, my x570 has over 1000 hours on the lamp, and essentially has the same brightness as when new, based on measurements.


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> My theater had complete matte black, walls, ceiling, black carpet and stuwart screen so I will play with this setting. So will I have to adjust brightness as well?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Wow truly impressive theater. I can only dream of something like that.

Help me understand something. You must have spent tens of thousand to get the best possible theater. Then after that investment you are content with copying someone else settings vs a professional calibration or doing your own.

Really just trying to understand. I am so confident that if you were to do a proper calibration that you would be more satisfied than what you have now, even if you think it looks good now. This confidence comes from spending way too many hours in the dark with patterns, a meter, and a laptop. I can just glance at your gamma settings and be certain it is not optimal for HDR. Anyway, it's up to you, but I really can't understand why anyone would put together such a beautiful theater and then not insist that it is properly calibrated. Not challenging you - just really trying to understand the logic. ; )

Nice work on the theater. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

jwhn said:


> Actually those of use using meters have seen that natural is as bright or even brighter than bright cinema. The main thing you get with bright cinema is less accurate colors. Natural is actually slightly brighter than bright cinema for everyone who has posted results and has bothered to take an objective approach.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good for you. Though I am not sure who "use" is.


----------



## jwhn

LumensLover said:


> Good for you. Though I am not sure who "use" is.



http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...son-5040-6040-projectors.html#/topics/2936334

It's these folks. The most interesting part is that it was one poster who almost never posts that highlighted that natural is actually brighter and he pointed out a couple other important points as well. And then we never heard from him again.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

jwhn said:


> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...son-5040-6040-projectors.html#/topics/2936334
> 
> It's these folks. The most interesting part is that it was one poster who almost never posts that highlighted that natural is actually brighter and he pointed out a couple other important points as well. And then we never heard from him again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Okay very good info to know. Thank you for the link. Due to my inherent OCD, I normally pay for calibrations and 30-day follow-up measurements. I've probably spent over $4,000 in calibrations over the last three years.

However with this model my gut feeling tells me I'm not going to be keep it that long so I will most likely let it go within two years or less as soon as Epson releases a brighter laser projector with equivalent contrast below $4,000. So I did not take the time to set up a post-purchase calibration appt along with follow up measurements as I normally would. Due to this being a temporary stop gap projector purchase, I'm in set it and forget it mode at this point.


----------



## jwhn

LumensLover said:


> Okay very good info to know. Thank you for the link. Due to my inherent OCD, I normally pay for calibrations and 30-day follow-up measurements. I've probably spent over $4,000 in calibrations over the last three years.
> 
> 
> 
> However with this model my gut feeling tells me I'm not going to be keep it that long so I will most likely let it go within two years or less as soon as Epson releases a brighter laser projector with equivalent contrast below $4,000. So I did not take the time to set up a post-purchase calibration appt along with follow up measurements as I normally would. Due to this being a temporary, stop gap projector purchase, I'm in set it and forget it mode at this point.




Understood. I'm with you. Part of me would like to see more people dive into the calibration approach because I think collectively we could learn a lot. But for some reason very few are interested. I've found trying to do it myself highly educational and interesting. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jwhn said:


> Wow truly impressive theater. I can only dream of something like that.
> 
> Help me understand something. You must have spent tens of thousand to get the best possible theater. Then after that investment you are content with copying someone else settings vs a professional calibration or doing your own.
> 
> Really just trying to understand. I am so confident that if you were to do a proper calibration that you would be more satisfied than what you have now, even if you think it looks good now. This confidence comes from spending way too many hours in the dark with patterns, a meter, and a laptop. I can just glance at your gamma settings and be certain it is not optimal for HDR. Anyway, it's up to you, but I really can't understand why anyone would put together such a beautiful theater and then not insist that it is properly calibrated. Not challenging you - just really trying to understand the logic. ; )
> 
> Nice work on the theater.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I don’t doubt that you are right but you saying “I can just tell by the gamma” is like me saying my settings are the best. You can’t tell by looking at the gama that my settings are **** just like I can’t tell if they are good. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

LumensLover said:


> Okay very good info to know. Thank you for the link. Due to my inherent OCD, I normally pay for calibrations and 30-day follow-up measurements. I've probably spent over $4,000 in calibrations over the last three years.
> 
> 
> 
> However with this model my gut feeling tells me I'm not going to be keep it that long so I will most likely let it go within two years or less as soon as Epson releases a brighter laser projector with equivalent contrast below $4,000. So I did not take the time to set up a post-purchase calibration appt along with follow up measurements as I normally would. Due to this being a temporary, stop gap projector purchase, I'm in set it and forget it mode at this point.




Understood. I'm with you. Part of me would like to see more people dive into the calibration approach because I think collectively we could learn a lot. But for some reason very few are interested. I've found trying to do it myself highly educational and interesting. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> I don’t doubt that you are right but you saying “I can just tell by the gamma” is like me saying my settings are the best. You can’t tell by looking at the gama that my settings are **** just like I can’t tell if they are good.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Only reason I say that is that HDR has a very specific gamma curve in that it starts very low and rapidly ramps up to the brightest possible highlights. It's very challenging to try and match that curve with a projector. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> Wow truly impressive theater. I can only dream of something like that.
> 
> Help me understand something. You must have spent tens of thousand to get the best possible theater. Then after that investment you are content with copying someone else settings vs a professional calibration or doing your own.
> 
> Really just trying to understand. I am so confident that if you were to do a proper calibration that you would be more satisfied than what you have now, even if you think it looks good now. This confidence comes from spending way too many hours in the dark with patterns, a meter, and a laptop. I can just glance at your gamma settings and be certain it is not optimal for HDR. Anyway, it's up to you, but I really can't understand why anyone would put together such a beautiful theater and then not insist that it is properly calibrated. Not challenging you - just really trying to understand the logic. ; )
> 
> Nice work on the theater.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I had 4 professional calibrations and really wasnt happy with it, and have no other options around here wich sucks lol! 

I will be getting meter to calibrate this week, the one you posted 

For now his settings are the best I have seen.

I am more of a sound guy also, walls are triple studded, 4 layers of drywall on each side with green glue between each sheet ect.

I used rew, audyssey pro to calibrate it perfectly. I just recently got into projector scene and will make it prefect.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> I had 4 professional calibrations and really wasnt happy with it, and have no other options around here wich sucks lol!
> 
> I will be getting meter to calibrate this week, the one you posted
> 
> For now his settings are the best I have seen.
> 
> I am more of a sound guy also, walls are triple studded, 4 layers of drywall on each side with green glue between each sheet ect.
> 
> I used rew, audyssey pro to calibrate it perfectly. I just recently got into projector scene and will make it prefect.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Interesting. Sorry to hear about your issues with the pros. Once you get your meter I am interested to exchange ideas / results with you. There has been such a small community that is focused on calibration and I think we can all learn from one another. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> Interesting. Sorry to hear about your issues with the pros. Once you get your meter I am interested to exchange ideas / results with you. There has been such a small community that is focused on calibration and I think we can all learn from one another.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


100% yes! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

JewDaddy said:


> Picture is kinda dark but from what I can see, your theater looks awesome! Love the white and red panels on the ceiling. Excuse my ignorance but are they just for looks or something else?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They are for reflections and placed in a certain spot. Takes forever to place them lol! Here are better pics









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## bigbadbob

What seats are those robc1976? Beautiful theater.


----------



## robc1976

bigbadbob said:


> What seats are those robc1976? Beautiful theater.


Thank you, those are called the gladiator seats. Favorite seats I have ever had. Everything is power, headrest, recliner ect

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## bigbadbob

Thanks for the info. They look extremely comfortable.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> They are for reflections and placed in a certain spot. Takes forever to place them lol! Here are better pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




That theater is awesome. I wish I had the room for the full Klipsh Atmos setup. For a room where that is not an option though I really couldn’t be happier with the sonos system. The surround effect is a touch artificial at times but I must say it’s quite convincing with the true play tuning. Really the most affordable system I have used that the surrounds disappear into the sound field. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jwhn said:


> Only reason I say that is that HDR has a very specific gamma curve in that it starts very low and rapidly ramps up to the brightest possible highlights. It's very challenging to try and match that curve with a projector.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Apologies the scotch was making me a touch facetious last night haha. But I think you hit on something right there and highlighted my issue with some of the other “calibrated” settings. They try too hard to faithfully recreate the hdr spec with both gamma and color, which as we no isn’t possible. As a result the image they produce I find to be a bit dull and washed out. Technically my settings are not as true to standard but I find they look way better because they don’t try to make the projector do something it can not. I fully expect if someone puts a meter on my settings they will test awful but darn if they don’t look awesome in practice. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Philnick

I'm looking at upgrading from my nearly ten year old Panasonic PT-AE2000U 1080p unit - which is still going strong (on its 3rd bulb - I only use it once or twice a week, running in Eco), because I'm getting envious of the contrast of newer units.

My screen area is 131" diagonal 16:9. My throw distance is between 13 and 14 feet, lens to screen. Can the Epson 5040UB fill that screen at that distance? My basement theater has no windows but does have flat white walls 20' apart and a low flat white ceiling, so dimming from zooming isn't a problem, and I could re-paint if necessary!

EDIT: The calculators at Projector People and at Epson seem to say this would work.


----------



## Mikesp1

ayrton said:


> Using Oppo 203 bt2020 SDR and love it. (Not the "Strip HDR") I think I'm using Oledurt's "Bright Cinema" settings on the PJ..


I am using the Bt2020 to SDR function of the OPPO with allmost the standard Digital cinema settings of the Epson 9300 or 5040.

I just set the Iris to -7 on the Epson and use 300nits and feature no 4 on the OPPO.

So far the resultaat are awesome. And this is in eco mode! I think OPPO did a great job!


----------



## timmyotule

Philnick said:


> I'm looking at upgrading from my nearly ten year old Panasonic PT-AE2000U 1080p unit - which is still going strong (on its 3rd bulb - I only use it once or twice a week, running in Eco), because I'm getting envious of the contrast of newer units.
> 
> My screen area is 131" diagonal 16:9. My throw distance is between 13 and 14 feet, lens to screen. Can the Epson 5040UB fill that screen at that distance? My basement theater has no windows but does have flat white walls 20' apart and a low flat white ceiling, so dimming from zooming isn't a problem, and I could re-paint if necessary!
> 
> EDIT: The calculators at Projector People and at Epson seem to say this would work.


I really like this calculator: http://www.webprojectorcalculator.com/

Yes, that should work. That's similar to my setup. I have my projector just over 13' away from a 112" wide screen. The Epson will throw a very slightly bigger picture from the same distance as the AE2000U. Though this is measured from the front of the lens and the Epson housing is deeper.

I just switched from an AE2000U as well. The step up to the 5040UB is great in terms of picture quality. Unfortunately I had to do a couple returns due to picture and power supply issues in the first month of having the projector so I returned it and got a refund. I'm thinking about switching to a demo X570R (RS420) as they can be had for cheaper than the Epson.


----------



## timmyotule

jwhn said:


> Actually those of use using meters have seen that natural is as bright or even brighter than bright cinema. The main thing you get with bright cinema is less accurate colors. Natural is actually slightly brighter than bright cinema for everyone who has posted results and has bothered to take an objective approach.


The ProjectorReviews and ProjectorCentral reviews of the 5040UB show differences in the relative brightness between Bright Cinema and Natural:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-5040ub-review.htm?page=Performance
https://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-hc5040ub-pc6040ub-projector-review-performance/

Projector Reviews shows them at essentially the same brightness while ProjectorCentral shows Bright Cinema as 30% brighter than Natural. Most of ProjectorCentral's numbers are a fair bit higher than the ProjectorReviews (even factoring in zoom and lamp settings). I wonder if it's due to a newer firmware since their review was done eight months after the other one. Or maybe there is just a large variance with the Epsons.

LumenLover - So you just have your eyes telling you that the JVC bulb dimmed? Didn't you get some data from the thousands and thousands of dollars you threw at calibrating the projector?  The data from calibrators and individuals with meters is showing that the JVC bulbs in their recent projectors don't dim quickly.


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> Apologies the scotch was making me a touch facetious last night haha. But I think you hit on something right there and highlighted my issue with some of the other “calibrated” settings. They try too hard to faithfully recreate the hdr spec with both gamma and color, which as we no isn’t possible. As a result the image they produce I find to be a bit dull and washed out. Technically my settings are not as true to standard but I find they look way better because they don’t try to make the projector do something it can not. I fully expect if someone puts a meter on my settings they will test awful but darn if they don’t look awesome in practice.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Right I think one has to pick one or the other for HDR - either get the wider color gamut benefits or the brighter spectral highlights. Dave's approach is an attempt to get both but it doesn't really get the increased contrast and bright highlights because the filter cuts the luminance in half.

It's pretty easy to get the wider colors calibrated with the filter in place. But it's very difficult to get the gamma "calibrated" on the epson, even without the filter, because the controls are somewhat limited. But the meter helped me get it optimized for my set up. 

It's also really useful for SDR calibration which is much easier. And for those who are going down the path of getting a meter, I would highly recommend starting with SDR until you learn the ropes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

timmyotule said:


> The ProjectorReviews and ProjectorCentral reviews of the 5040UB show differences in the relative brightness between Bright Cinema and Natural:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-5040ub-review.htm?page=Performance
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-hc5040ub-pc6040ub-projector-review-performance/
> 
> 
> 
> Projector Reviews shows them at essentially the same brightness while ProjectorCentral shows Bright Cinema as 30% brighter than Natural. Most of ProjectorCentral's numbers are a fair bit higher than the ProjectorReviews (even factoring in zoom and lamp settings). I wonder if it's due to a newer firmware since their review was done eight months after the other one. Or maybe there is just a large variance with the Epsons.
> 
> 
> 
> LumenLover - So you just have your eyes telling you that the JVC bulb dimmed? Didn't you get some data from the thousands and thousands of dollars you threw at calibrating the projector?  The data from calibrators and individuals with meters is showing that the JVC bulbs in their recent projectors don't dim quickly.



I think everyone in the calibration thread concluded that they were essentially the same luminance but that natural has more accurate colors, even for HDR. After a lot of experimenting and different calibration attempts I landed on using Natural for both SDR and HDR. I think most others who were exchanging results did as well.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jwhn said:


> Right I think one has to pick one or the other for HDR - either get the wider color gamut benefits or the brighter spectral highlights. Dave's approach is an attempt to get both but it doesn't really get the increased contrast and bright highlights because the filter cuts the luminance in half.
> 
> It's pretty easy to get the wider colors calibrated with the filter in place. But it's very difficult to get the gamma "calibrated" on the epson, even without the filter, because the controls are somewhat limited. But the meter helped me get it optimized for my set up.
> 
> It's also really useful for SDR calibration which is much easier. And for those who are going down the path of getting a meter, I would highly recommend starting with SDR until you learn the ropes.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I would like to purchase a not too expensive meter in the future just for fun. I have watched a few professional calibrations in person and it definitely is not for the faint of heart lol. I’m always shocked how warm the resulting image is. I almost find it a bit distracting at first but you get used to it over time. Also, flipping back and forth between pre and post calibration settings it’s quite interesting how bad we are at judging color.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> I would like to purchase a not too expensive meter in the future just for fun. I have watched a few professional calibrations in person and it definitely is not for the faint of heart lol. I’m always shocked how warm the resulting image is. I almost find it a bit distracting at first but you get used to it over time. Also, flipping back and forth between pre and post calibration settings it’s quite interesting how bad we are at judging color.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Agreed on the colors point - and it's even more difficult after a little scotch. ; )



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

timmyotule said:


> The ProjectorReviews and ProjectorCentral reviews of the 5040UB show differences in the relative brightness between Bright Cinema and Natural:
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-5040ub-review.htm?page=Performance
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-hc5040ub-pc6040ub-projector-review-performance/
> 
> Projector Reviews shows them at essentially the same brightness while ProjectorCentral shows Bright Cinema as 30% brighter than Natural. Most of ProjectorCentral's numbers are a fair bit higher than the ProjectorReviews (even factoring in zoom and lamp settings). I wonder if it's due to a newer firmware since their review was done eight months after the other one. Or maybe there is just a large variance with the Epsons.
> 
> LumenLover - So you just have your eyes telling you that the JVC bulb dimmed? Didn't you get some data from the thousands and thousands of dollars you threw at calibrating the projector?  The data from calibrators and individuals with meters is showing that the JVC bulbs in their recent projectors don't dim quickly.


Yes I did have a calibrator come by again and do measurements after 30 days and 60 days. With that being said some of you guys obsess over measurements too much. The point of this endeavor is enjoyment. After 2 months I was experiencing eye strain while using a JVC 550r. 

I don't need more measurements to tell me what my eyes already knew. I was not enjoying the projector at that time and I was experiencing pain while doing so. I don't try to do everything myself, I have professionals do it first and do follow-ups on the measurements.

I have not bothered getting the Epson 5040 calibrated because as much as I want to love this projector it just does not impress me when it comes to contrast and color accuracy. I've seen two 5040s calibrated by professionals. One was in the demo room and one at a friend of mine's house. Also, my Epson 6040 was calibrated by a professional calibrator. Though the color was improved it still does not impress me compared to Sony.


----------



## timmyotule

LumensLover said:


> Yes I did have a calibrator come by again and do measurements after 30 days and 60 days. With that being said some of you guys obsess over measurements too much. The point of this endeavor is enjoyment. After 2 months I was experiencing eye strain while using a JVC 550r.
> 
> I don't need more measurements to tell me what my eyes already knew. I was not enjoying the projector at that time and I was experiencing pain while doing so. I don't try to do everything myself, I have professionals do it first and do follow-ups on the measurements.
> 
> I have not bothered getting the Epson 5040 calibrated because as much as I want to love this projector it just does not impress me when it comes to contrast and color accuracy. I've seen two 5040s calibrated by professionals. One was in the demo room and one at a friend of mine's house. Also, my Epson 6040 was calibrated by a professional calibrator. Though the color was improved it still does not impress me compared to Sony.


I trust measurement numbers more than anecdotal users reports. Especially when the user says they were having other issues with projector as well. Maybe it was due to a bad dim bulb that you were getting eye strain but maybe it was something else. Measurements in this case would be helpful to back up the claims you are making. They would provide another firm data point for those of us looking to decide on a projector though I understand why you don't have them. If something isn't working in one's setup it makes sense to move on.


----------



## LumensLover

timmyotule said:


> I trust measurement numbers more than anecdotal users reports. Especially when the user says they were having other issues with projector as well. Maybe it was due to a bad dim bulb that you were getting eye strain but maybe it was something else. Measurements in this case would be helpful to back up the claims you are making. They would provide another firm data point for those of us looking to decide on a projector though I understand why you don't have them. If something isn't working in one's setup it makes sense to move on.


What I stated in my previous post was based on my personal experience with the JVC X550R projector. At no point did I state that was a reflection on all JVC units. Also, it was not a previous model unit. I paid $4,000 for the projector so I think I would know what model I purchased. It is not my job to convince you of my personal experience nor do I care to be honest. I'm not beholden to you in any way.

I've noticed over the years that people here are constantly waiting on the sidelines looking to others to provide them substantial evidence before they take the effort to make a purchase. That is not anyone's job here. We are not here to provide a service for others before others are ready to make a jump on a purchase.

At the end of the day enjoyment is a personal thing for yourself and your family. It's not logical for some members to sit by idly and expect other members to spoon feed them a buffet of measurements, data, calibration settings, etc. before they're able to make up their mind on purchase. This is a message form. This is is not a professional calibration form. Neither is it a professional home theater contractor form. 

I'm only here to share my experiences on the plethora of products I have purchased. And I try to glean any helpful information I can while I'm here. It is not my job to upsell and educate people here on everything that I purchased. 

Pre-purchase research should consist of reading all professional reviews available. If things don't work out that is what a return policy is for. And if things need adjustments out the box, that is what professional calibrators are for.


----------



## timmyotule

LumensLover said:


> _Rant._


I've noticed your attitude and hyperbole in other posts. It is not helpful nor does it help to get across any information you may have about equipment. It just serves to make anything you post highly questionable.


----------



## LumensLover

timmyotule said:


> I've noticed your attitude and hyperbole in other posts. It is not helpful nor does it help to get across any information you may have about equipment. It just serves to make anything you post highly questionable.


You are entitled to your opinion.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

I just don’t understand why forums always digress to elitism, cable news talking head, or just plan stupid comments. It serves the hobbies they represent poorly to say the least. I post in here and on reef aquarium forums to generate conversation and share my experiences. I enjoy both of these hobbies so much and I love that we all have different opinions and views yet all share the same passion. It helps me evolve in the given hobby. 

For this forum alone, through discussion in the past few weeks and sharing my different settings along the way, I learned a lot and progressed to a hdr setting and sdr setting that works great for me in my viewing environment. And I hope others try the settings and experiment with their environment and equipment and share their experiences. Can we all just remember that this is what the spirit of online forums is for??? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just don’t understand why forums always digress to elitism, cable news talking head, or just plan stupid comments. It serves the hobbies they represent poorly to say the least. I post in here and on reef aquarium forums to generate conversation and share my experiences. I enjoy both of these hobbies so much and I love that we all have different opinions and views yet all share the same passion. It helps me evolve in the given hobby.
> 
> For this forum alone, through discussion in the past few weeks and sharing my different settings along the way, I learned a lot and progressed to a hdr setting and sdr setting that works great for me in my viewing environment. And I hope others try the settings and experiment with their environment and equipment and share their experiences. Can we all just remember that this is what the spirit of online forums is for???
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I wholeheartedly agree with your post. However there are some members here who give condescending post to anyone who is simply sharing an experience. An experience is not to be viewed as law or as a false representation of professionalism.

I have in no way presented myself as a professional nor have I ever tried to give false info putting any manufacturer under a bad light. By that same token, I should not be badgered for simply giving my opinion or personal experience on a product I've owned.


----------



## coderguy

LumensLover said:


> What I stated in my previous post was based on my personal experience with the JVC X550R projector. At no point did I state that was a reflection on all JVC units. Also, it was not a previous model unit. I paid $4,000 for the projector so I think I would know what model I purchased. It is not my job to convince you of my personal experience nor do I care to be honest. I'm not beholden to you in any way.
> 
> Pre-purchase research should consist of reading all professional reviews available. If things don't work out that is what a return policy is for. And if things need adjustments out the box, that is what professional calibrators are for.


It's not surprising, there are some people that get eye strain on the JVC compared to the Sony's, but it is very very rare.
You just happen to be one of those people, the Sony is better at motion (all Sony's are). I would have also tried switching the lamp out just to be sure.

This issue you mention does not affect most people, so it's a non-issue for 95%+ of people. It would be about as unusual as seeing major RBE with a 6x color wheel on a DLP, it does happen but it's rare. There are some people better served by Sonys than JVCs, but overall in the higher-end the Sony is harder to make a case for...

The Epson 5040ub vs. the Sony hw45es is a hard call to make, I've never owned both in my own room so I don't know really.
That said, I would lean towards LCOS (the Sony) simply due to pixel fill, but perhaps the Epson's e-shift helps level the playing field somewhat.

The Epson also has a DI, so that is going to give better blacks in some scenes, but the Sony has higher Native Contrast, but the Epson can get close with certain calibrations.
I'd have to say I don't think the Sony can beat the Epson in black levels, not given the Epson has a DI, not unless you hate the DI that much.


----------



## LumensLover

coderguy said:


> It's not surprising, there are some people that get eye strain on the JVC compared to the Sony's, but it is very very rare.
> You just happen to be one of those people, the Sony is better at motion (all Sony's are). I would have also tried switching the lamp out just to be sure.
> 
> This issue you mention does not affect most people, so it's a non-issue for 95%+ of people. It would be about as unusual as seeing major RBE with a 6x color wheel on a DLP, it does happen but it's rare.
> There are some people better served by Sonys than JVCs, but overall in the higher-end the Sony is harder to make a case for...
> 
> The Epson 5040ub vs. the Sony hw45es is a hard call to make, I've never owned both in my own room so I don't know really.
> That said, I would lean towards LCOS (the Sony) simply due to pixel fill, but perhaps the Epson's e-shift helps level the playing field somewhat.
> 
> The Epson also has a DI, so that is going to give better blacks in some scenes, but the Sony has higher Native Contrast, but the Epson can get close with certain calibrations.
> I'd have to say I don't think the Sony can beat the Epson in black levels, not given the Epson has a DI, not unless you hate the DI that much.


Switching out the lamp would have been the next logical step, however since JVC is charging a price gouging $500 for a replacement bulb for that model, I was just not willing to do that.

My professional calibrator measured a 25% decrease in lumens after 60 days of use with the JVC x550r.
I could have took up the issue with my dealer, however I'm not the type that will ask for any type of additional discounts or equipment from a dealer after I make a purchase. I will normally just pay for it out of pocket or sell the equipment for a loss.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

LumensLover said:


> I wholeheartedly agree with your post. However there are some members here who give condescending post to anyone who is simply sharing an experience. An experience is not to be viewed as law or as a false representation of professionalism.
> 
> 
> 
> I have in no way presented myself as a professional nor have I ever tried to give false info putting any manufacturer under a bad light. By that same token, I should not be badgered for simply giving my opinion or personal experience on a product I've owned.



Agreed. I wasn’t singling you or anyone out just a general observation. I definitely value your opinion and experience even if it isn’t the same as mine. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## coderguy

The lamp prices are ridiculous on the newer JVC's, that's the main reason I don't own one yet.
I'm not paying $500 - $600 for a lamp. 

AVScience has specials sometimes where you can get a spare lamp for +$100 on the JVC's only during the purchase of a new unit.
The special is probably expired though.

If I were buying a new JVC, I'd try really really hard to get 2 extra lamps from the get-go for a discount.


----------



## LumensLover

coderguy said:


> The lamp prices are ridiculous on the newer JVC's, that's the main reason I don't own one yet.
> I'm not paying $500 - $600 for a lamp.
> 
> AVScience has specials sometimes where you can get a spare lamp for +$100 on the JVC's only during the purchase of a new unit.
> The special is probably expired though.
> 
> If I were buying a new JVC, I'd try really really hard to get 2 extra lamps from the get-go for a discount.


That is a smart approach which I am considering at this time. Once you see the image a JVC can put up in a dimly lit room or in a dark room it is hard to go back to be honest. However, I must balance that with the fact that I am a heavy user who is passionate about home theater.

So I use my projector between 4 to 6 hours per day. The only way I could see using a JVC again is if I run it on high lamp but I will definitely have to factor in lamp cost on that. Also, I want to say I do apologize to anyone in this thread if I have given the appearance that the Epson 5040 is an inferior unit.


It most certainly is not. It is a very good unit with a good amount of brightness, solid black levels when iris is engaged, and very good optics which give a very sharp image.

I'll also say that the color acuracy out of the box is discernibly better than what I had with the JVC X550R. JVC should be ashamed of what they charge for projectors that are not 90% calibrated out the box like Sony projectors are.


----------



## Philnick

timmyotule said:


> I really like this calculator: http://www.webprojectorcalculator.com/
> 
> Yes, that should work. That's similar to my setup. I have my projector just over 13' away from a 112" wide screen. The Epson will throw a very slightly bigger picture from the same distance as the AE2000U. Though this is measured from the front of the lens and the Epson housing is deeper.
> 
> I just switched from an AE2000U as well. The step up to the 5040UB is great in terms of picture quality. Unfortunately I had to do a couple returns due to picture and power supply issues in the first month of having the projector so I returned it and got a refund. I'm thinking about switching to a demo X570R (RS420) as they can be had for cheaper than the Epson.


Really? I thought that the power supply problem had been solved a long time ago. I was planning to buy through Amazon for their financing option, but if that risks getting older stock, I may choose to buy direct from Epson to avoid that risk.

And where would I find a demo X570R (RS420)? Not many video shops in the Boston area!


----------



## coderguy

LumensLover said:


> Also, I want to say I do apologize to anyone in this thread if I have given the appearance that the Epson 5040 is an inferior unit.
> It most certainly is not. It is a very good unit with a good amount of brightness, solid black levels when iris is engaged, and very good optics which give a very sharp image.
> 
> I'll also say that the color acuracy out of the box is discernibly better than what I had with the JVC X550R. JVC should be ashamed of what they charge for projectors that are not 90% calibrated out the box like Sony projectors are.


It could be your screen, even if a screen only has a 3 dE bias, if the bias coincidentally happens to be in the opposite direction of what you need, it will make one projector look way off.
Most screens have at least 4+ dE of Bias, the Stewarts have less, but most do have an error.

For instance, on my HP 2.4 gain screen, my JVC color looks pretty far off, but on my other screen it's not as bad. It's not because the HP has all that much bias (it doesn't), it's because the other screen I have counteracts the projector's own color bias because the screen is BIAS'd in the opposite direction of the projector. When both the screen and projector are bias'd in the same direction, it sux.

For instance, if Screen # 1 = has a blue and red bias of say +3 dE, and a projector has a blue and red bias also of +3 to +4 dE.
You could be getting anywhere from +5 to +7 dE... That is pretty far off.

If you are using a screen with a green bias and a negative blue/red bias, then suddenly it could be +1 dE error.
That can happen with the same projector on 2 different screens.

Most of the projectors these days have fairly accurate color OOTB, but it depends on the screen too.


----------



## LumensLover

coderguy said:


> It could be your screen, even if a screen only has a 3 dE bias, if the bias coincidentally happens to be in the opposite direction of what you need, it will make one projector look way off.
> Most screens have at least 4+ dE of Bias, the Stewarts have less, but most do have an error.
> 
> For instance, on my HP 2.4 gain screen, my JVC color looks pretty far off, but on my other screen it's not as bad. It's not because the HP has all that much bias (it doesn't), it's because the other screen I have counteracts the projector's own color bias because the screen is BIAS'd in the opposite direction of the projector. When both the screen and projector are bias'd in the same direction, it sux.
> 
> For instance, if Screen # 1 = has a blue and red bias of say +3 dE, and a projector has a blue and red bias also of +3 to +4 dE.
> You could be getting anywhere from +5 to +7 dE... That is pretty far off.
> 
> If you are using a screen with a green bias and a negative blue/red bias, then suddenly it could be +1 dE error.
> That can happen with the same projector on 2 different screens.
> 
> Most of the projectors these days have fairly accurate color OOTB, but it depends on the screen too.


At the time I had a Stewart Studiotek 130 G3 screen. From what I read is lauded as a benchmark reference screen in the industry for accuracy. My calibrator was able to improve the color accuracy of the JVC projector. So it was not that big of a deal in hindsight. I just felt like I should not have needed a calibration when paying that much money for projector.


----------



## coderguy

Philnick said:


> And where would I find a demo X570R (RS420)? Not many video shops in the Boston area!


Contact [email protected], he might know of a demo in your area.
AVScience is in Rochester, NY and they do have a showroom, depending on what part of Boston you live at, it could be anywhere from 350-400 miles from you.
Probably worth the drive to setup a demo though.

1255 University Ave Suite 130 Rochester, NY 14607 is where their showroom is I believe.


----------



## coderguy

LumensLover said:


> At the time I had a Stewart Studiotek 130 G3 screen. From what I read is to be one of the benchmark reference screens in the industry for accuracy. My calibrator was able to improve the JVC projector dramatically. So it was not that big of a deal, I just felt like I should not have needed a calibration when paying for that much money for projector.


That is rare, most of the JVC's are just as spot-on as the Sony's these days. Sounds like you had a bad lamp.


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Apologies the scotch was making me a touch facetious last night haha. But I think you hit on something right there and highlighted my issue with some of the other “calibrated” settings. They try too hard to faithfully recreate the hdr spec with both gamma and color, which as we no isn’t possible. As a result the image they produce I find to be a bit dull and washed out. Technically my settings are not as true to standard but I find they look way better because they don’t try to make the projector do something it can not. I fully expect if someone puts a meter on my settings they will test awful but darn if they don’t look awesome in practice.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They really do, I been tweaking your gamna curve and so far

2 point I put at 4 possibly 5
6th point at 25 brings in a bit more detail.

Lens iris at -8 may move that up with the "auto" setting instead of auto bright and see if its needed.

I also turned down signal/strength enhancements down to 10/12

Also, Auto bright does look good but does wash out colors and blacks a bit...I pit it on "auto" and was able to bump up contrast 3 clicks and man did that really make a already awesome picture even better. Hi try it, you will agree.

I really believe that auto bright setting messes with black and whites really bad. You loose detail in whites and your really dark blacks are not as good.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Mikesp1 said:


> I am using the Bt2020 to SDR function of the OPPO with allmost the standard Digital cinema settings of the Epson 9300 or 5040.
> 
> I just set the Iris to -7 on the Epson and use 300nits and feature no 4 on the OPPO.
> 
> So far the resultaat are awesome. And this is in eco mode! I think OPPO did a great job!


I have same player, can you screen shot your settings? Want to be sure I have them correct

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just don’t understand why forums always digress to elitism, cable news talking head, or just plan stupid comments. It serves the hobbies they represent poorly to say the least. I post in here and on reef aquarium forums to generate conversation and share my experiences. I enjoy both of these hobbies so much and I love that we all have different opinions and views yet all share the same passion. It helps me evolve in the given hobby.
> 
> For this forum alone, through discussion in the past few weeks and sharing my different settings along the way, I learned a lot and progressed to a hdr setting and sdr setting that works great for me in my viewing environment. And I hope others try the settings and experiment with their environment and equipment and share their experiences. Can we all just remember that this is what the spirit of online forums is for???
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


100% agree, I really like calibrating by eye to...its fun to see how other things effect this as that. 

Do a natural HDR settings next lol! With or without scotch! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

LumensLover said:


> I wholeheartedly agree with your post. However there are some members here who give condescending post to anyone who is simply sharing an experience. An experience is not to be viewed as law or as a false representation of professionalism.
> 
> I have in no way presented myself as a professional nor have I ever tried to give false info putting any manufacturer under a bad light. By that same token, I should not be badgered for simply giving my opinion or personal experience on a product I've owned.


Agreed, without opinions we would have nothing to go on.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

coderguy said:


> It could be your screen, even if a screen only has a 3 dE bias, if the bias coincidentally happens to be in the opposite direction of what you need, it will make one projector look way off.
> Most screens have at least 4+ dE of Bias, the Stewarts have less, but most do have an error.
> 
> For instance, on my HP 2.4 gain screen, my JVC color looks pretty far off, but on my other screen it's not as bad. It's not because the HP has all that much bias (it doesn't), it's because the other screen I have counteracts the projector's own color bias because the screen is BIAS'd in the opposite direction of the projector. When both the screen and projector are bias'd in the same direction, it sux.
> 
> For instance, if Screen # 1 = has a blue and red bias of say +3 dE, and a projector has a blue and red bias also of +3 to +4 dE.
> You could be getting anywhere from +5 to +7 dE... That is pretty far off.
> 
> If you are using a screen with a green bias and a negative blue/red bias, then suddenly it could be +1 dE error.
> That can happen with the same projector on 2 different screens.
> 
> Most of the projectors these days have fairly accurate color OOTB, but it depends on the screen too.


Very interested in this, I have a stewart nueve, what is mine? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> 100% agree, I really like calibrating by eye to...its fun to see how other things effect this as that.
> 
> Do a natural HDR settings next lol! With or without scotch!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



Is a better hdr setting derived from a nikka coffey or ardberg an oa  you decide I’ll calibrate haha












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Is a better hdr setting derived from a nikka coffey or ardberg an oa  you decide I’ll calibrate haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I say ardberg lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## bigbadbob

Looking for advice on a ceiling mount for the 5040UB. Also, how best to hang it with a isolation clip ceiling. I have 5/8" osb and 5/8" sheetrock hung on RSIC clips. Can I screw it directly to the OSB?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> They really do, I been tweaking your gamna curve and so far
> 
> 2 point I put at 4 possibly 5
> 6th point at 25 brings in a bit more detail.
> 
> Lens iris at -8 may move that up with the "auto" setting instead of auto bright and see if its needed.
> 
> I also turned down signal/strength enhancements down to 10/12
> 
> Also, Auto bright does look good but does wash out colors and blacks a bit...I pit it on "auto" and was able to bump up contrast 3 clicks and man did that really make a already awesome picture even better. Hi try it, you will agree.
> 
> I really believe that auto bright setting messes with black and whites really bad. You loose detail in whites and your really dark blacks are not as good.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Yup I love it. I’m gonna mess with it more once it gets dark out here and post my changes. Even with ambient light this is leaping off the screen. I did find the need to boost color saturation up a few clicks. But we will see if that holds when the room is dark 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> I say ardberg lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




If you haven’t had the an oa I highly recommend it. Has the same profile as the uigeadail but is an easier drink. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## coderguy

No offense, but people don't want to read about whiskey in a projector forum, take it to a PM.
And people call me 'off topic' sometimes just for talking about the wrong projector in the wrong thread, this is outer space here...


----------



## ayrton

Philnick said:


> I'm looking at upgrading from my nearly ten year old Panasonic PT-AE2000U 1080p unit - which is still going strong (on its 3rd bulb - I only use it once or twice a week, running in Eco), because I'm getting envious of the contrast of newer units.
> 
> My screen area is 131" diagonal 16:9. My throw distance is between 13 and 14 feet, lens to screen. Can the Epson 5040UB fill that screen at that distance? My basement theater has no windows but does have flat white walls 20' apart and a low flat white ceiling, so dimming from zooming isn't a problem, and I could re-paint if necessary!
> 
> EDIT: The calculators at Projector People and at Epson seem to say this would work.


I used this one..

https://files.support.epson.com/pdc/en/html5/Index.html

Best of luck and let us know....


----------



## OrcusVaruna

coderguy said:


> No offense, but people don't want to read about whiskey in a projector forum, take it to a PM.
> 
> And people call me 'off topic' sometimes just for talking about the wrong projector in the wrong thread, this is outer space here...




Whatever I’m sorry a slight diversion from topic is so grossly offensive. Not my intent just a touch of fun is all. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

New Apple TV 4K owner and using this with the projector will be my first foray into 4K/HDR (so please be kind  ). I've researched the threads to see what ATV video setting to use with the projector and I understand the consensus is 4K SDR, although some use HDR/24Hz. When I run Apple's HDR test, using the 4k SDR setting, it reverts the signal to the projector back. Should I expect the Apple test to be successful or ignore it? Signal chain is ATV 4K to Yamaha A3050 (set to 4K mode 1 for those that have a Yamaha), then to projector. My understanding is that given the projector's 10 Gb/sec HDMI limitation, we don't need to use HDMI premium cables so I haven't; is this correct? Once the ATV successfully passes the 4K HDR signal, my understanding is the projector automatically recognizes it as such. I tried some iTunes movie trailers of 4K HDR titles thinking this would be a way to test the transmission of 4K HDR content. Are the trailers 4K HDR or SDR only?

I would really like to hear from those that have no issue streaming from the ATV 4K to the point you can simply 'set and forget'. 

Thank you in advance for your help.


----------



## Philnick

Anyone care to comment on whether the 5040UB is still a risky purchase in terms of power supply and picture failure or is past those "teething pains" - and whether buying through Amazon (or Best Buy, for that matter, where I could simply pick it up) - instead of direct from Epson - represents a risk of getting an older - and thus potentially defective - unit?

Would the manufacture date be shown on the outside of the box if I got it at Best Buy?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Philnick said:


> Anyone care to comment on whether the 5040UB is still a risky purchase in terms of power supply and picture failure or is past those "teething pains" - and whether buying through Amazon (or Best Buy, for that matter, where I could simply pick it up) - instead of direct from Epson - represents a risk of getting an older - and thus potentially defective - unit?




I just bought my unit with a manufacture date of 01/18 and its power supply failed within 7 days. Epsons warranty though is why I bought it and it lived up to it’s billing. They replaced mine in 24 hrs. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## timmyotule

Philnick said:


> Really? I thought that the power supply problem had been solved a long time ago. I was planning to buy through Amazon for their financing option, but if that risks getting older stock, I may choose to buy direct from Epson to avoid that risk.
> 
> And where would I find a demo X570R (RS420)? Not many video shops in the Boston area!


The first projector I got had focus and color uniformity issues. Epson said they would send a new replacement. It did arrive in a new box with accessories but it had clearly been opened before. I don't know if it was a refurb or not. It lasted less than 30 hours and then wouldn't turn on. 

Like someone else already mentioned: If you're interested in the JVC talk to AVScience, either Mike or Craig. They're getting a shipment of demo / B-Stock / refurbished X570R projectors early this week and are selling them for $2k.


And if LumensLover is still talking to me: How many hours did your X550 have on it when the calibrator measured a 25% drop in brightness at 60 days? That does sound like you got a bad bulb, though I'm not sure why you didn't mention this measurement yesterday.


----------



## Uppsalaing

avtoronto said:


> New Apple TV 4K owner and using this with the projector will be my first foray into 4K/HDR (so please be kind  ). I've researched the threads to see what ATV video setting to use with the projector and I understand the consensus is 4K SDR, although some use HDR/24Hz. When I run Apple's HDR test, using the 4k SDR setting, it reverts the signal to the projector back. Should I expect the Apple test to be successful or ignore it? Signal chain is ATV 4K to Yamaha A3050 (set to 4K mode 1 for those that have a Yamaha), then to projector. My understanding is that given the projector's 10 Gb/sec HDMI limitation, we don't need to use HDMI premium cables so I haven't; is this correct? Once the ATV successfully passes the 4K HDR signal, my understanding is the projector automatically recognizes it as such. I tried some iTunes movie trailers of 4K HDR titles thinking this would be a way to test the transmission of 4K HDR content. Are the trailers 4K HDR or SDR only?
> 
> I would really like to hear from those that have no issue streaming from the ATV 4K to the point you can simply 'set and forget'.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your help.


I set it to 1080p, SDR, 60hz with Match Range and Match Frame Rate both set to on. This means 4K movies are played at 1080p, as my internet threshold getss to it's limit quickly when using 4k and I prefer the way the projector does the upscaling of 1080p content instead of the Apple TV.

I can use 4k, SDR, 60hz with Match Range and Match Frame Rate both set to on. It looks great and 4K movies play in 4K. This is probably the setting you want to use if your internet connection is fast and you don't run into limits woth your internet provider. Set and forget as far as the Apple TV goes.

If you set the Apple TV to 4K SDR 60hz and it fails to show the screen then your cables are probably not good or you have settings wrong in your AVR. Get the HDMI premium certified ones (the ones that can do 18Gbps). it seems in your set up the projector is not your bottle neck. They should be fairly cheap.

You cannot use the trailers to judge as they are usually 1080p SDR and low quality at that.


----------



## avtoronto

Uppsalaing said:


> I set it to 1080p, SDR, 60hz with Match Range and Match Frame Rate both set to on. This means 4K movies are played at 1080p, as my internet threshold getss to it's limit quickly when using 4k and I prefer the way the projector does the upscaling of 1080p content instead of the Apple TV.
> 
> I can use 4k, SDR, 60hz with Match Range and Match Frame Rate both set to on. It looks great and 4K movies play in 4K. This is probably the setting you want to use if your internet connection is fast and you don't run into limits. Set and forget as far as the Apple TV goes.
> 
> If you set the Apple TV to 4K SDR 60hz and it fails to show the screen then your cables are probably not good or you have settings wrong in your AVR. Get the HDMI premium certified ones (the ones that can do 18Gbps). it seems in your set up the projector is not your bottle neck. They should be fairly cheap.
> 
> You cannot use the trailers to judge as they are usually 1080p SDR and low quality at that.


I should have stated I enabled both Match Range and Match Frame Rate, my error. My Internet connect is 100 Mb/sec down so speed is not a problem. In reading your reply (thanks), my understanding is you are not getting HDR, only 4K, Ideally, I'd like to get both.


----------



## Uppsalaing

avtoronto said:


> I should have stated I enabled both Match Range and Match Frame Rate, my error. My Internet connect is 100 Mb/sec down so speed is not a problem. In reading your reply (thanks), my understanding is you are not getting HDR, only 4K, Ideally, I'd like to get both.


When we have Match Rannge set to "on" we get HDR whenever we play an HDR movie. It switches to it automatically.

You can check this by using the settings I mentioned (either setting), then play an HDR movie and press 'Menu' on the projector remoto and go to 'info'. You will see the resolution, colour and dynamic range info displayed under 'Projector Info'.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> I should have stated I enabled both Match Range and Match Frame Rate, my error. My Internet connect is 100 Mb/sec down so speed is not a problem. In reading your reply (thanks), my understanding is you are not getting HDR, only 4K, Ideally, I'd like to get both.




I have an atv4k and an getting 12bit 24hz hdr via Netflix. I have range match enabled running 4K sdr base setting. Here is jessica jones season 2 steaming via range match from my atv4k. I also have ridiculously fast att direct link fiber. I pull 2gbps down an 1gbps up.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yup I love it. I’m gonna mess with it more once it gets dark out here and post my changes. Even with ambient light this is leaping off the screen. I did find the need to boost color saturation up a few clicks. But we will see if that holds when the room is dark
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




In a dark room the auto dynamic range with your adjustments rule. When I have on a light the auto bright settings stand! Thank you 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

OrcusVaruna said:


> I have an atv4k and an getting 12bit 24hz hdr via Netflix. I have range match enabled running 4K sdr base setting. Here is jessica jones season 2 steaming via range match from my atv4k. I also have ridiculously fast att direct link fiber. I pull 2gbps down an 1gbps up.


And this is exactly what I want to achieve too. Are you using premium HDMI cables (perhaps this is my issue)? Chroma of 4:2:2? Any other settings you can share or tips? Thanks.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> And this is exactly what I want to achieve too. Are you using premium HDMI cables (perhaps this is my issue)? Chroma of 4:2:2? Any other settings you can share or tips? Thanks.



I’m using nothing special just a monster black platinum cable and a chroma of 4.2.0


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> I say ardberg lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



Wow











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Wow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is that your house? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Just got a OEM bulb from craig peer. How hard are these to install? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## djmattyb

*AppleTV 4K setup*



avtoronto said:


> New Apple TV 4K owner and using this with the projector will be my first foray into 4K/HDR (so please be kind  ). I've researched the threads to see what ATV video setting to use with the projector and I understand the consensus is 4K SDR, although some use HDR/24Hz. When I run Apple's HDR test, using the 4k SDR setting, it reverts the signal to the projector back. Should I expect the Apple test to be successful or ignore it? Signal chain is ATV 4K to Yamaha A3050 (set to 4K mode 1 for those that have a Yamaha), then to projector. My understanding is that given the projector's 10 Gb/sec HDMI limitation, we don't need to use HDMI premium cables so I haven't; is this correct? Once the ATV successfully passes the 4K HDR signal, my understanding is the projector automatically recognizes it as such. I tried some iTunes movie trailers of 4K HDR titles thinking this would be a way to test the transmission of 4K HDR content. Are the trailers 4K HDR or SDR only?
> 
> I would really like to hear from those that have no issue streaming from the ATV 4K to the point you can simply 'set and forget'.
> 
> Thank you in advance for your help.


Here's my Apple TV 4K setup:

AppleTV 4K
Set to 4K HDR 24Hz
Chroma set to 4:2:2
Match Content turned on for Range and Frame Rate

Goes through Yamaha TSR-7810
Processing turned on so the tuner upscales anything that isn't 4K into 4K (such as cable TV)

The projector is set to auto for just about everything under 'Signal'
The result is 4K, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR (screenshot from Netflix, Jessica Jones intro).

I was worried because the current HDMI cable I have that runs from the Yamaha to the projector is old (7 years) and I wasn't sure it would support both 4K and HDMI but I lucked out and it works.


----------



## avtoronto

djmattyb said:


> Here's my Apple TV 4K setup:
> 
> AppleTV 4K
> Set to 4K HDR 24Hz
> Chroma set to 4:2:2
> Match Content turned on for Range and Frame Rate
> 
> Goes through Yamaha TSR-7810
> Processing turned on so the tuner upscales anything that isn't 4K into 4K (such as cable TV)
> 
> The projector is set to auto for just about everything under 'Signal'
> The result is 4K, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR (screenshot from Netflix, Jessica Jones intro).
> 
> I was worried because the current HDMI cable I have that runs from the Yamaha to the projector is old (7 years) and I wasn't sure it would support both 4K and HDMI but I lucked out and it works.


Perfect, thank you very much.


----------



## blake18

LumensLover said:


> timmyotule said:
> 
> 
> 
> The ProjectorReviews and ProjectorCentral reviews of the 5040UB show differences in the relative brightness between Bright Cinema and Natural:
> 
> http://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-5040ub-review.htm?page=Performance
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-hc5040ub-pc6040ub-projector-review-performance/
> 
> Projector Reviews shows them at essentially the same brightness while ProjectorCentral shows Bright Cinema as 30% brighter than Natural. Most of ProjectorCentral's numbers are a fair bit higher than the ProjectorReviews (even factoring in zoom and lamp settings). I wonder if it's due to a newer firmware since their review was done eight months after the other one. Or maybe there is just a large variance with the Epsons.
> 
> LumenLover - So you just have your eyes telling you that the JVC bulb dimmed? Didn't you get some data from the thousands and thousands of dollars you threw at calibrating the projector? /forum/images/smilies/confused.gif The data from calibrators and individuals with meters is showing that the JVC bulbs in their recent projectors don't dim quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I did have a calibrator come by again and do measurements after 30 days and 60 days. With that being said some of you guys obsess over measurements too much. The point of this endeavor is enjoyment. After 2 months I was experiencing eye strain while using a JVC 550r.
> 
> I don't need more measurements to tell me what my eyes already knew. I was not enjoying the projector at that time and I was experiencing pain while doing so. I don't try to do everything myself, I have professionals do it first and do follow-ups on the measurements.
> 
> I have not bothered getting the Epson 5040 calibrated because as much as I want to love this projector it just does not impress me when it comes to contrast and color accuracy. I've seen two 5040s calibrated by professionals. One was in the demo room and one at a friend of mine's house. Also, my Epson 6040 was calibrated by a professional calibrator. Though the color was improved it still does not impress me compared to Sony.
Click to expand...

I'm definitely thinking you had a bad bulb or something. I can't think of anyone that wouldn't be impressed by the 5040ub colors or contrast. This makes no sense, it has an amazing image, by about any standard.


----------



## avtoronto

djmattyb said:


> Here's my Apple TV 4K setup:
> 
> AppleTV 4K
> Set to 4K HDR 24Hz
> Chroma set to 4:2:2
> Match Content turned on for Range and Frame Rate
> 
> Goes through Yamaha TSR-7810
> Processing turned on so the tuner upscales anything that isn't 4K into 4K (such as cable TV)
> 
> The projector is set to auto for just about everything under 'Signal'
> The result is 4K, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR (screenshot from Netflix, Jessica Jones intro).
> 
> I was worried because the current HDMI cable I have that runs from the Yamaha to the projector is old (7 years) and I wasn't sure it would support both 4K and HDMI but I lucked out and it works.


Overnight thought...how is SDR content treated by these settings, or do you change some of these when you are watching SDR content? Do you use Digital or Bright Cinema, using any particular group of settings contributed by members of this forum?


----------



## JewDaddy

Thought I would share a screenshot of just how truly amazing God Of War 4 looks on the Epson 5040 paired with a PS4 Pro and HDFury Linker. This is 4K HDR in all its glory. 










Btw, I’m using the new Bright Cinema Settings that have been going around and I absolutely love them! The only changes I made were that I upped the color saturation a few notches, lowered the customized gamma in a few places and changed Dynamic Range from Auto (Bright) to Auto. Wow! What a difference. 

I was hesitant to change from Auto Bright to Auto because I didn’t want to lose light output in HDR. After running some tests on multiple HDR games, the brightest HDR setting really didn’t make the image brighter. It just blew the contrast way up and clipped whites. Auto to my eyes overall looks much better. 

If any of you have the PS4 pro and are debating on God Of War, I say go for it. This is easily the most beautiful game I’ve yet to see and that goes for PC games as well. Having the HDFury Linker allows to play in 4K HDR so if you’re a gamer, I also suggest looking into a Linker. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nathan

*diy mount*



bigbadbob said:


> Looking for advice on a ceiling mount for the 5040UB. Also, how best to hang it with a isolation clip ceiling. I have 5/8" osb and 5/8" sheetrock hung on RSIC clips. Can I screw it directly to the OSB?


I had a previous u-channel mount screwed into my ceiling from my old CRT pj, so I cobbled together something myself. I just had to get the right sized bolts and drilled holes through a piece of plywood cut to size, then mounted that plywood on my previous setup. I used four of the mounting bolt holes on bottom of the 5040ub. Luckily with the airflow going in and out the front, you don't have to worry too much about blocking the bottom.

Sorry I don't remember what size the bolts were.


----------



## robc1976

JewDaddy said:


> Thought I would share a screenshot of just how truly amazing God Of War 4 looks on the Epson 5040 paired with a PS4 Pro and HDFury Linker. This is 4K HDR in all its glory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I’m using the new Bright Cinema Settings that have been going around and I absolutely love them! The only changes I made were that I upped the color saturation a few notches, lowered the customized gamma in a few places and changed Dynamic Range from Auto (Bright) to Auto. Wow! What a difference.
> 
> I was hesitant to change from Auto Bright to Auto because I didn’t want to lose light output in HDR. After running some tests on multiple HDR games, the brightest HDR setting really didn’t make the image brighter. It just blew the contrast way up and clipped whites. Auto to my eyes overall looks much better.
> 
> If any of you have the PS4 pro and are debating on God Of War, I say go for it. This is easily the most beautiful game I’ve yet to see and that goes for PC games as well. Having the HDFury Linker allows to play in 4K HDR so if you’re a gamer, I also suggest looking into a Linker.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Exactly! I use the same....try upping gamma point #2 up to 3 or 4 that really brings in dark detail.

Auto bright I noticed the same...washed out the picture but its not with contrast I don't think because test pattern clipped in same area but bars where lighter.


What gamma points did you change? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Mr.G

avtoronto said:


> Overnight thought...how is SDR content treated by these settings, or do you change some of these when you are watching SDR content?


http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...-apple-tv-owners-thread-731.html#post56075030


----------



## ruggercb

JewDaddy said:


> Thought I would share a screenshot of just how truly amazing God Of War 4 looks on the Epson 5040 paired with a PS4 Pro and HDFury Linker. This is 4K HDR in all its glory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I’m using the new Bright Cinema Settings that have been going around and I absolutely love them! The only changes I made were that I upped the color saturation a few notches, lowered the customized gamma in a few places and changed Dynamic Range from Auto (Bright) to Auto. Wow! What a difference.
> 
> I was hesitant to change from Auto Bright to Auto because I didn’t want to lose light output in HDR. After running some tests on multiple HDR games, the brightest HDR setting really didn’t make the image brighter. It just blew the contrast way up and clipped whites. Auto to my eyes overall looks much better.
> 
> If any of you have the PS4 pro and are debating on God Of War, I say go for it. This is easily the most beautiful game I’ve yet to see and that goes for PC games as well. Having the HDFury Linker allows to play in 4K HDR so if you’re a gamer, I also suggest looking into a Linker.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Here’s 4k SDR auto bright. Extra donut Kratos 2.35 mode because I hate to give up the screen real estate. Must be the FOV bc I don’t notice it much.












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bigbadbob

nathan said:


> I had a previous u-channel mount screwed into my ceiling from my old CRT pj, so I cobbled together something myself. I just had to get the right sized bolts and drilled holes through a piece of plywood cut to size, then mounted that plywood on my previous setup. I used four of the mounting bolt holes on bottom of the 5040ub. Luckily with the airflow going in and out the front, you don't have to worry too much about blocking the bottom.
> 
> Sorry I don't remember what size the bolts were.



Thanks Nathan


----------



## avtoronto

Mr.G said:


> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-ne...-apple-tv-owners-thread-731.html#post56075030


Unfortunately that thread which I've been through is not much help when it comes to getting the best ATV experience from this projector.


----------



## gene4ht

bigbadbob said:


> Looking for advice on a ceiling mount for the 5040UB. Also, how best to hang it with a isolation clip ceiling. I have 5/8" osb and 5/8" sheetrock hung on RSIC clips. Can I screw it directly to the OSB?


Not sure how secure your 5/8" osb is but it's always suggested to secure to something very substantial like a joist...or 2x4/2x6 bridging two joists. However, if mounting directly to the 5/8" osb, I would think using multiple toggle bolts would do the trick. Once you have a secure mounting surface in place, IMO, cheaper and less substantial mounts can be found but you can't do any better than Chief's mounting plates and brackets in terms of rigidity, flexibility, and ease of adjustability. See my previous posting at the link below...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48956017


----------



## bigbadbob

Thanks Gene. Very helpful.
RG


----------



## jwhn

avtoronto said:


> Unfortunately that thread which I've been through is not much help when it comes to getting the best ATV experience from this projector.



The ATV doesn't have that many options around settings so it should be pretty straightforward. Not sure if you are looking for something specific or trying to solve a specific problem?

In terms of the projector settings, I don't think there are any specific ATV settings. All the settings that people share here are source agnostic. If there are errors being introduced into the signal chain by a specific device then calibration seeks to correct them. But that would be unique to your situation and set up.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> Unfortunately that thread which I've been through is not much help when it comes to getting the best ATV experience from this projector.




I’m not really sure what your issue is I have my atv set to 4K sdr with range and frame rate matching on. I use an sdr calibration for sdr content and my standard bright cinema hdr calibration for hdr content. These are the same settings I use for Blu-ray and gaming. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

*Wirelss HD Sync issues and glithces*



sddp said:


> Sorry for the delay, been running some test before I got back to you.
> The old receiver was sold a while back to get the new 6400.
> 
> The wireless transmitter was on the far left in a cabinet about 5' high (the projector is 1.5' on a pole from ceiling dead center and 23' from the front of the room/transmitter. Worked flawlessly for a year till I rebuilt the theater room and now the transmitter is in a horizontal cabinet on top of a DVD unit so about 6" above the floor. I am using the same router as before. I thought I could chase it down to if it was the XBOX ONE X or the Sony PS 4, but both have the same issue and it's way worse on 3D material (which what you're telling me, makes more sense, more data being wirelessly transmitted).
> 
> Is there anything else I can try or a setting perhaps in the Denon X6400H?
> 
> 
> Thank you for your time in this frustrating issue


 


Mr.G said:


> I have no experience with the Epson Wireless Transmitter and can only go off the instructions on the Epson site.
> 
> https://files.support.epson.com/doc...lesshd/reference/wihd_transmission_range.html
> https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd3/cpd39809/source/wirelesshd/concepts/wihd_placement.html
> 
> It would seem your new/current location of the transmitter has changed the signal strength/reception enough to introduce the occasional problems you see.


 


ayrton said:


> As Mr.G said, plus if your transmitter is lower than the PJ, you can aim it at the PJ. (Mount it at an angle so it is aimed directly at the PJ)


 

Thanks for all the advice. I've made a few changes from your input and it has helped a lot. I am no longer getting the glitches every 15-30 seconds. however it's now every minute or so. I put a acoustic foam block on the front to make it as angles as possible. I do not get any issues at all on Directv or gaming on the PS4 or Xbox, but only watching movies which I find odd.
I never had this issue when the wireless HD was on a cabinet on the far left end, but that was on top of the cabinet which was about 6' high


Is there any other suggestions?
Again my Epson is mounted about 12" from the ceiling and it's about 19 feet away in the rear of the room.


I've attached pics to get an idea of what I've done and space available


----------



## avtoronto

jwhn said:


> The ATV doesn't have that many options around settings so it should be pretty straightforward. Not sure if you are looking for something specific or trying to solve a specific problem?
> 
> In terms of the projector settings, I don't think there are any specific ATV settings. All the settings that people share here are source agnostic. If there are errors being introduced into the signal chain by a specific device then calibration seeks to correct them. But that would be unique to your situation and set up.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My original post from yesterday is #14113 

Yes, likely it is my signal chain so that is what I am trying to diagnose.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> Thanks for all the advice. I've made a few changes from your input and it has helped a lot. I am no longer getting the glitches every 15-30 seconds. however it's now every minute or so. I put a acoustic foam block on the front to make it as angles as possible. I do not get any issues at all on Directv or gaming on the PS4 or Xbox, but only watching movies which I find odd.
> 
> I never had this issue when the wireless HD was on a cabinet on the far left end, but that was on top of the cabinet which was about 6' high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any other suggestions?
> 
> Again my Epson is mounted about 12" from the ceiling and it's about 19 feet away in the rear of the room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've attached pics to get an idea of what I've done and space available




What does your signal strength read? I find if I try and move the transmitter to a spot I’m not getting a 100% signal it is spotty on high bandwidth content. I also have my transmitter out in the open and 10’ from the projector.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

OrcusVaruna said:


> What does your signal strength read? I find if I try and move the transmitter to a spot I’m not getting a 100% signal it is spotty on high bandwidth content. I also have my transmitter out in the open and 10’ from the projector.
> View attachment 2394682
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 

I didn't know there was a way to read the signal strength, how does one do that?


As you can see in my pics, I am very limited where I can put the transmitter


For some odd reason my pics doesn't show using Internet Explorer but show up using Safar, how odd


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> I didn't know there was a way to read the signal strength, how does one do that?
> 
> 
> As you can see in my pics, I am very limited where I can put the transmitter
> 
> 
> For some odd reason my pics doesn't show using Internet Explorer but show up using Safar, how odd



See below for how to display signal strength. What about velcroing the transmitter to the right or left side of the cabinet? Most wireless hd transmitter use wide field reflections to help boost the signal. You may be blocking these by having the transmitter covered. 













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## djmattyb

avtoronto said:


> Overnight thought...how is SDR content treated by these settings, or do you change some of these when you are watching SDR content? Do you use Digital or Bright Cinema, using any particular group of settings contributed by members of this forum?


Here's a screenshot from watching Cable TV. Remember, my tuner is up-scaling all the 1080p to 4k. I usually just leave the color settings on Cinema. I haven't done any tweaks to the settings based on what other users have posted. I also still have yet to upgrade the firmware. I just haven't bothered to do it yet.


----------



## WynsWrld98

djmattyb said:


> Here's a screenshot from watching Cable TV. Remember, my tuner is up-scaling all the 1080p to 4k. I usually just leave the color settings on Cinema. I haven't done any tweaks to the settings based on what other users have posted. I also still have yet to upgrade the firmware. I just haven't bothered to do it yet.


1080p from cable TV? Isn't 1080i or 720p the best you'd get?


----------



## avtoronto

WynsWrld98 said:


> 1080p from cable TV? Isn't 1080i or 720p the best you'd get?


He is just making the point that he is upscaling the cable TV signal. Yes the original image would be 1080i or 720p.


----------



## Savatage316

Hey guys quick question, so I hooked my HDFury Vertex up and I have visual however when I go to turn on hdr in ps4 it says your TV doesn't support hdr.

So here's my question,what is the latest firmware? My searches aren't giving me a proper answer, is 1.11 the latest or? Also do you guys think that will fix my issue?


----------



## DireWolf08

After *lots* of testing of various settings in this thread, I have pretty much settled on my own, custom settings for HDR with the v1.11 firmware. (Shocker, I know!) I arrived at these settings by actually doing what Epson suggested when they released this latest firmware: "calibrating" in SDR and then setting the Dynamic Range to Auto or Auto Bright. Coupled with my room and screen, the other settings with custom Gamma curves seemed to either get washed out or have issues with low detail in shadows/lowlights, though certain scenes with explosions or bright highlights (e.g. lightsabers, the trail behind Yondu's arrow) popped nicely. Here is a bit of detail on how I got there: 

Setup: XBox One S > Denon AVR-x1300w > Epson 5040ub (v1.11 firmware)
Room/Screen: Light controlled room, dark tan paint, white ceiling, 110" DIY screen with Carl's Place ALR material
Test content: Guardians of the Galaxy v2, The Last Jedi, Blade Runner 2049 (all 4K UHD Blu-Rays)

High Level settings: 
- Started with Digital Cinema 
- I used the Xbox's "Calibrate HDTV" routine to set brightness, contrast, saturation and tint (with blue color filter) - could also use AVS HD 709 test patterns ... 
- Gamma left at 0 
- Image Enhancement set to level 3 
- Power Consumption: High, Auto Iris: High speed
- No change to RGB offset/gain or RGBCMY settings
- SuperWhite Off, HDMI Video Range: Auto, ColorSpace: Auto
- Color Space: Auto, Dynamic Range: Auto (Bright)

In the end, you have to do what looks best to you in your specific use case/setup. If that happens to be someone else's settings, great! But, don't give up hope if others' settings don't satisfy. This projector, with some (lots of) coaxing, is certainly capable of an impressive HDR/WCG image, especially for it's price point! I think the recent firmware has really improved the HDR capability of this projector. 

Thanks to all who have posted settings, it has really helped the user community (myself included) converge on an approach for maximizing this projector's HDR capabilities!


----------



## megametaman

Philnick said:


> Anyone care to comment on whether the 5040UB is still a risky purchase in terms of power supply and picture failure or is past those "teething pains" - and whether buying through Amazon (or Best Buy, for that matter, where I could simply pick it up) - instead of direct from Epson - represents a risk of getting an older - and thus potentially defective - unit?
> 
> Would the manufacture date be shown on the outside of the box if I got it at Best Buy?


I bought mine almost at the end of January. The power supply went kaput after less than 100 hours in the span of about 60 days. 

If you are trying to wait out the "bad apples", it doesn't seem like that's the case yet. At least it doesn't look like it from my side of the fence. I sent it to the brick and mortar store I bought it at and I've been waiting about a week so far.


----------



## koberlin1

*cannot get HDR watchable on the 6040 + SI Slate .8 AT screen*



ruggercb said:


> Here’s 4k SDR auto bright. Extra donut Kratos 2.35 mode because I hate to give up the screen real estate. Must be the FOV bc I don’t notice it much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is that a Screen Innovations screen? What kind? I am having probs calibrating my Epson + SI screen.

Did some calibrating on the Epson 6040UB + 120" SI Slate AT ALR .8 screen and could not get HDR material to look good...the bright areas of the picture looked phenomenal but the darker areas were too dark...details lost. Ended up forcing the projector into SDR mode and that worked with HDR content well. The screens dark gray fabric may also come into play...

A 1.2 gain screen would increase the FL from 54 to 79 but we were pretty sure that would result in some unwanted side effects (hotspotting, sparkels). Have attached a snapshot of the results of the current screen setup from webprojectorcalculator.com which indicates the FL on the .8 to be well within range for viewing HDR content.

Have tried a few 6040 calibration settings as posted here at the forum to no avale. Playing back UHD content from an Oppo UHD-203 and Roku Ultra in a completely darkened room. Anyone with the 6040UB + SI screen combo getting decent HDR results?


----------



## ruggercb

koberlin1 said:


> Is that a Screen Innovations screen? What kind? I am having probs calibrating my Epson + SI screen.
> 
> Did some calibrating on the Epson 6040UB + 120" SI Slate AT ALR .8 screen and could not get HDR material to look good...the bright areas of the picture looked phenomenal but the darker areas were too dark...details lost. Ended up forcing the projector into SDR mode and that worked with HDR content well. The screens dark gray fabric may also come into play...
> 
> A 1.2 gain screen would increase the FL from 54 to 79 but we were pretty sure that would result in some unwanted side effects (hotspotting, sparkels). Have attached a snapshot of the results of the current screen setup from webprojectorcalculator.com which indicates the FL on the .8 to be well within range for viewing HDR content.
> 
> Have tried a few 6040 calibration settings as posted here at the forum to no avale. Playing back UHD content from an Oppo UHD-203 and Roku Ultra in a completely darkened room. Anyone with the 6040UB + SI screen combo getting decent HDR results?




It’s a Dark Energy Abyss .9 Gain ALR. I haven’t tried much in HDR so I’m afraid I’m not much help. However, In SDR I’m happier with the image with the gamma raised to 2.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

DireWolf08 said:


> After *lots* of testing of various settings in this thread, I have pretty much settled on my own, custom settings for HDR with the v1.11 firmware. (Shocker, I know!) I arrived at these settings by actually doing what Epson suggested when they released this latest firmware: "calibrating" in SDR and then setting the Dynamic Range to Auto or Auto Bright. Coupled with my room and screen, the other settings with custom Gamma curves seemed to either get washed out or have issues with low detail in shadows/lowlights, though certain scenes with explosions or bright highlights (e.g. lightsabers, the trail behind Yondu's arrow) popped nicely. Here is a bit of detail on how I got there:
> 
> Setup: XBox One S > Denon AVR-x1300w > Epson 5040ub (v1.11 firmware)
> Room/Screen: Light controlled room, dark tan paint, white ceiling, 110" DIY screen with Carl's Place ALR material
> Test content: Guardians of the Galaxy v2, The Last Jedi, Blade Runner 2049 (all 4K UHD Blu-Rays)
> 
> High Level settings:
> - Started with Digital Cinema
> - I used the Xbox's "Calibrate HDTV" routine to set brightness, contrast, saturation and tint (with blue color filter) - could also use AVS HD 709 test patterns ...
> - Gamma left at 0
> - Image Enhancement set to level 3
> - Power Consumption: High, Auto Iris: High speed
> - No change to RGB offset/gain or RGBCMY settings
> - SuperWhite Off, HDMI Video Range: Auto, ColorSpace: Auto
> - Color Space: Auto, Dynamic Range: Auto (Bright)
> 
> In the end, you have to do what looks best to you in your specific use case/setup. If that happens to be someone else's settings, great! But, don't give up hope if others' settings don't satisfy. This projector, with some (lots of) coaxing, is certainly capable of an impressive HDR/WCG image, especially for it's price point! I think the recent firmware has really improved the HDR capability of this projector.
> 
> Thanks to all who have posted settings, it has really helped the user community (myself included) converge on an approach for maximizing this projector's HDR capabilities!


Thanks for sharing your experience.

Where did you read Epson's recommendation?

Also, if I understand your post you seem to be using Digital Cinema even for your SDR content, so that means you have the P3 filter engagged.


----------



## inspector

You know, I've had my 6040 about 1 YEAR and it seems that everyday that when I visit this thread, someone gives another calibration!


I have reams of sheets of papers of calibrations throughout the year.


Maybe we should do a specific Home Theater calibration for Epson 5040/6040/ and similar ones.


ALL I WANT IS MY PJ TO PRODUCE THE BEST IT CAN...and that includes UHD, BD, SD and whatever.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

koberlin1 said:


> Is that a Screen Innovations screen? What kind? I am having probs calibrating my Epson + SI screen.
> 
> Did some calibrating on the Epson 6040UB + 120" SI Slate AT ALR .8 screen and could not get HDR material to look good...the bright areas of the picture looked phenomenal but the darker areas were too dark...details lost. Ended up forcing the projector into SDR mode and that worked with HDR content well. The screens dark gray fabric may also come into play...
> 
> A 1.2 gain screen would increase the FL from 54 to 79 but we were pretty sure that would result in some unwanted side effects (hotspotting, sparkels). Have attached a snapshot of the results of the current screen setup from webprojectorcalculator.com which indicates the FL on the .8 to be well within range for viewing HDR content.
> 
> Have tried a few 6040 calibration settings as posted here at the forum to no avale. Playing back UHD content from an Oppo UHD-203 and Roku Ultra in a completely darkened room. Anyone with the 6040UB + SI screen combo getting decent HDR results?




I use an elite cinegrey 3d 1.2 gain screen and the projector is as close to the screen as it can possibly get due to my small room dimensions and I don’t see any sparkles or hot spotting whatsoever. On a screen that literally costs $2000 more then mine I’d be shocked if you had any issues. If not save a few grand and get a cinegrey 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

inspector said:


> You know, I've had my 6040 about 1 YEAR and it seems that everyday that when I visit this thread, someone gives another calibration!
> 
> 
> I have reams of sheets of papers of calibrations throughout the year.
> 
> 
> Maybe we should do a specific Home Theater calibration for Epson 5040/6040/ and similar ones.
> 
> 
> ALL I WANT IS MY PJ TO PRODUCE THE BEST IT CAN...and that includes UHD, BD, SD and whatever.




I agree this is not the easiest display to coax a wonderful picture out of. It takes work and is very dependent on screen and room environment. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

inspector said:


> You know, I've had my 6040 about 1 YEAR and it seems that everyday that when I visit this thread, someone gives another calibration!
> 
> 
> I have reams of sheets of papers of calibrations throughout the year.
> 
> 
> Maybe we should do a specific Home Theater calibration for Epson 5040/6040/ and similar ones.
> 
> 
> ALL I WANT IS MY PJ TO PRODUCE THE BEST IT CAN...and that includes UHD, BD, SD and whatever.


John - You should really consider purchasing an inexpensive light meter and trying the calibration yourself using the free HCFR software. There is a dedicated thread for calibrating HDR on this projector. You can get much more accurate results this way than by using settings from other owners.


----------



## titanle

Quick question about HDMI cables before my 5040 arrives. This is the cable I currently have, BlueRigger In-Wall High Speed HDMI Cable - 50 Feet (15 M) - CL3 Rated - Supports [email protected], Ultra HD, 3D, 1080p, Ethernet and Audio Return (Latest Standard).

Is that sufficient or should I upgrade? It will be connected to a Yamaha 3070.

Thanks


----------



## migsta

*Avoid this projector because of power supply issue - at least for me.*



megametaman said:


> I bought mine almost at the end of January. The power supply went kaput after less than 100 hours in the span of about 60 days.
> 
> If you are trying to wait out the "bad apples", it doesn't seem like that's the case yet. At least it doesn't look like it from my side of the fence. I sent it to the brick and mortar store I bought it at and I've been waiting about a week so far.


I just had my 3rd one die because of a power supply issue. The original one died, the second one died and now the third one (the third one Epson guaranteed was brand new and devoid of the power supply issue) just died as well. This is a bull**** product with bull**** QC - pardon the language. I would get rid of it I could but now have to play endless projector roulette with Epson. They should be embarrassed. I've owned a 6010 and 6030 and didn't have any issue with those. This 6040UB I would avoid like the plague because of this issue. The last Epson tech support guy I talked to leaned to the fact that there are known "power supply issues" without stating it directly. I was guaranteed this last unit was not one of those but here we go again.


----------



## DireWolf08

Uppsalaing said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience.
> 
> Where did you read Epson's recommendation?
> 
> Also, if I understand your post you seem to be using Digital Cinema even for your SDR content, so that means you have the P3 filter engagged.


Two great questions!

1) I am honestly struggling to find where I read that! It was definitely on one of the sites that was talking about the new fw release, I cannot currently find it!
2) I am using Cinema and eco brightness for SDR content, but yes, the filter is engaged. I have not spent enough time to Find one setting to cover both sdr and hdr, but, honestly, not sure I care to do so!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DireWolf08 said:


> Two great questions!
> 
> 
> 
> 1) I am honestly struggling to find where I read that! It was definitely on one of the sites that was talking about the new fw release, I cannot currently find it!
> 
> 2) I am using Cinema and eco brightness for SDR content, but yes, the filter is engaged. I have not spent enough time to Find one setting to cover both sdr and hdr, but, honestly, not sure I care to do so!



https://m.highdefdigest.com/news/sh...irmware-update-for-supported-projectors/40542



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> https://m.highdefdigest.com/news/sh...irmware-update-for-supported-projectors/40542
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



This suggests that the new auto(bright) was created for high ambient light environments. That explains why that mode looks so bad in dark environments. Before I was wondering what they were thinking with that mode - now it makes more sense I guess.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chickenbc49

there is a new Firmware 1.12/1.11 in the EU support ( 20/04/2018) :

https://www.epson.fr/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9300/Support-et-telechargements

don't know what changes in it , than every new Firmware ... :/


----------



## Mr.G

chickenbc49 said:


> there is a new Firmware 1.12/1.11 in the EU support ( 20/04/2018) :
> 
> https://www.epson.fr/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9300/Support-et-telechargements
> 
> don't know what changes in it , than every new Firmware ... :/


Interesting. The bin file has a January 25, 2018 date.


----------



## Mr.G

titanle said:


> Quick question about HDMI cables before my 5040 arrives. This is the cable I currently have, BlueRigger In-Wall High Speed HDMI Cable - 50 Feet (15 M) - CL3 Rated - Supports [email protected], Ultra HD, 3D, 1080p, Ethernet and Audio Return (Latest Standard).
> 
> Is that sufficient or should I upgrade? It will be connected to a Yamaha 3070.
> 
> Thanks


The BlueRigger could be fine. Many find their high speed HDMI cables (40-50 feet) work fine with this projector since it has a 10.2Gbps HDMI chipset. If not, you can always purchase a replacement later. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-h...operly-reliably-support-18gbps-hdmi-2-0b.html


----------



## euphoriapt

Hi guys, i would like to know what screensize i can use on my man cave with a distance between the screen and couch being 4m ( 160" approx.).
I would also like to know if the 5040ub supports 220v.

Thank you !!


----------



## CinemaPhan

Philnick said:


> Anyone care to comment on whether the 5040UB is still a risky purchase in terms of power supply and picture failure or is past those "teething pains" - and whether buying through Amazon (or Best Buy, for that matter, where I could simply pick it up) - instead of direct from Epson - represents a risk of getting an older - and thus potentially defective - unit?
> 
> Would the manufacture date be shown on the outside of the box if I got it at Best Buy?


Attached is a slide presentation from an Epson Dealer meeting at CES in January indicating that projectors shipping in February 2018 would have the latest firmware. I hoped that this might indicate that revised projectors would go out about that same time from the plant in China, and they _should_ be arriving into retail channels about now. This is why I am waiting.

Some other observations about this power supply issue:


The Epson HC 5404UB has been "Out Of Stock" at epson.com for over a week. New stock arriving?


The HC 4000 doesn't appear to be plagued by this issue if the AVS Forum HC4000 thread is any guide. Amazon/Best Buy reviews don't mention it, either.


I have wondered if "fixed" refurbished (per Epson Support) projectors sent out have some indicator on the projector ID plate, like a rev # sticker, or colored paint dot.


----------



## Philnick

CinemaPhan said:


> Attached is a slide presentation from an Epson Dealer meeting at CES in January indicating that projectors shipping in February 2018 would have the latest firmware. I hoped that this might indicate that revised projectors would go out about that same time from the plant in China, and they _should_ be arriving into retail channels about now. This is why I am waiting.
> 
> Some other observations about this power supply issue:
> 
> 
> The Epson HC 5404UB has been "Out Of Stock" at epson.com for over a week. New stock arriving?
> 
> 
> The HC 4000 doesn't appear to be plagued by this issue if the AVS Forum HC4000 thread is any guide. Amazon/Best Buy reviews don't mention it, either.
> 
> 
> I have wondered if "fixed" refurbished (per Epson Support) projectors sent out have some indicator on the projector ID plate, like a rev # sticker, or colored paint dot.


I've decided, after a happy evening with my old Panasonic PT-AE2000U last night, to postpone upgrading my projector. I have a relatively new bulb in the Panny, which gives a nice bright 1080p image with no visible pixels, due to Panasonic's "Smooth Screen" pair of crystals in the light path, one of which creates a ghost image shifted vertically and one shifted horizontally, effectively filling in the gaps between pixels and making the screen door effect a mere dimming only visible a few inches from the screen (and thus useful for focusing with the remote), with no loss of sharpness as there's no overlap.

I'll revisit upgrading when I need to buy a new bulb - and can't!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

CinemaPhan said:


> Attached is a slide presentation from an Epson Dealer meeting at CES in January indicating that projectors shipping in February 2018 would have the latest firmware. I hoped that this might indicate that revised projectors would go out about that same time from the plant in China, and they _should_ be arriving into retail channels about now. This is why I am waiting.
> 
> 
> 
> Some other observations about this power supply issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Epson HC 5404UB has been "Out Of Stock" at epson.com for over a week. New stock arriving?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The HC 4000 doesn't appear to be plagued by this issue if the AVS Forum HC4000 thread is any guide. Amazon/Best Buy reviews don't mention it, either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have wondered if "fixed" refurbished (per Epson Support) projectors sent out have some indicator on the projector ID plate, like a rev # sticker, or colored paint dot.




My recent warranty replacement shipped with the new firmware installed. As to the power supply issue I called epson again and was told by the engineer/technician I spoke with that they have recently begun using heavier duty capacitors on the warranty replacements but he did not know if new shipments were shipping with this new fix. Also asked about the hc4000 and he said they use identical components outside of the lcd panel. 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

OrcusVaruna said:


> My recent warranty replacement shipped with the new firmware installed. As to the power supply issue I called epson again and was *told by the engineer/technician I spoke with that they have recently begun using heavier duty capacitors on the warranty replacements* but he did not know if new shipments were shipping with this new fix. Also asked about the hc4000 and he said they use identical components outside of the lcd panel.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


At least at the CSR level some information is slowly being shared now. It appears my attempt at requesting greater transparency with respect to the power supply failures with others in Epson's organization have fallen on deaf ears as I've yet to receive a response to the survey I submitted at their request 3 weeks ago.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...power-supply-failure-rate-3.html#post55987828


----------



## OrcusVaruna

gene4ht said:


> At least at the CSR level some information is slowly being shared now. It appears my attempt at requesting greater transparency with respect to the power supply failures with others in Epson's organization have fallen on deaf ears as I've yet to receive a response to the survey I submitted at their request 3 weeks ago.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...power-supply-failure-rate-3.html#post55987828




This was the lone rep who acknowledged the issue but I was quite pissed as I’m on my 3rd unit in less then 30 days since I purchased it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CinemaPhan

OrcusVaruna said:


> My recent warranty replacement shipped with the new firmware installed. As to the power supply issue I called epson again and was told by the engineer/technician I spoke with that they have recently begun using heavier duty capacitors on the warranty replacements but he did not know if new shipments were shipping with this new fix. Also asked about the hc4000 and he said they use identical components outside of the lcd panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


As for the 5040ub and 4000 being nearly identical except for lcd panels and a less sophisticated iris, it’s possible there is less of a load on the power supply if it is indeed identical. Or, owners of the 4000 complain on forums and in reviews less.


----------



## NetViper

So I just hooked up the Xbox one x again to the projector after moving and it would only play 4k discs in 1080p. Looking at the settings all the boxes were red. I plugged in the linker and they were all green. What’s going on? Before the linker I was green on all but games.


----------



## ricwhite

Sounds to me as if the problem with the 5040/6040 is not necessarily with the power supply but with how the components draw power. They may need a complete re-design. I think this model will always be a "risk" because it's just a poor design. I currently have a 6010 and have had no problems with it. I was going to upgrade this year, but I think I will wait until the next generation.


----------



## WynsWrld98

ricwhite said:


> Sounds to me as if the problem with the 5040/6040 is not necessarily with the power supply but with how the components draw power. They may need a complete re-design. I think this model will always be a "risk" because it's just a poor design. I currently have a 6010 and have had no problems with it. I was going to upgrade this year, but I think I will wait until the next generation.


Hopefully a 5050/6050 announced at CEDIA 9/2018 with 18 GB HDMI chipset, F.I. in 4K, redesigned power supply and more lumens?


----------



## LumensLover

gene4ht said:


> At least at the CSR level some information is slowly being shared now. It appears my attempt at requesting greater transparency with respect to the power supply failures with others in Epson's organization have fallen on deaf ears as I've yet to receive a response to the survey I submitted at their request 3 weeks ago.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...power-supply-failure-rate-3.html#post55987828


Hate to say I told you so. Underpaid call center employees will just move on to the next call. Nothing will get forwarded.


----------



## koberlin1

OrcusVaruna said:


> I use an elite cinegrey 3d 1.2 gain screen and the projector is as close to the screen as it can possibly get due to my small room dimensions and I don’t see any sparkles or hot spotting whatsoever. On a screen that literally costs $2000 more then mine I’d be shocked if you had any issues. If not save a few grand and get a cinegrey
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Too late to save a few grand, screen is purchased! Agreed though, at 5K I should be able to dial it in. Gonna swap out the .8 gain for 1.2 and go from there.


----------



## Rmayrap

Hey guys, just bought this projector and xant figure out why 4k enhancement and.frame interpolation are greyed out? I tried playing non 4k video and 4k and no affect, still greyed out. Processing is set to FINE not fast. Can someone help?


----------



## JewDaddy

Rmayrap said:


> Hey guys, just bought this projector and xant figure out why 4k enhancement and.frame interpolation are greyed out? I tried playing non 4k video and 4k and no affect, still greyed out. Processing is set to FINE not fast. Can someone help?




4K and FI don’t work together with this projector. 4K enhancement and FI only work if you’re watching a 24hz source such as a blu-ray. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

ricwhite said:


> Sounds to me as if the problem with the 5040/6040 is not necessarily with the power supply but with how the components draw power. They may need a complete re-design. I think this model will always be a "risk" because it's just a poor design. I currently have a 6010 and have had no problems with it. I was going to upgrade this year, but I think I will wait until the next generation.


I think Epson, should give everyone who owns a 5040/6040 an option to upgrade to the 5050/6050, once announced, for a minimal cost. That would be the epitome of excellent customer service.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## CcC_83

Hi everyone !

I have an Epson 9300 ( 6040 UB ) , Elite Screens VMAX II 120" , PS4 Pro and HDFury Linker... I can say that i'm a newbei about all settings and calibrations. I have tried to look for some picture settings for 4K HDR in 60 via Linker in forum but as you know i there are a lot of pages and descriptions and at the end i can say i lost myself.

Can anyone post picture settings for 4K HDR Gaming on PS4 Pro ? I will be so glad if someone can help ))


----------



## Uppsalaing

ricwhite said:


> Sounds to me as if the problem with the 5040/6040 is not necessarily with the power supply but with how the components draw power. They may need a complete re-design. I think this model will always be a "risk" because it's just a poor design. I currently have a 6010 and have had no problems with it. I was going to upgrade this year, but I think I will wait until the next generation.


My Epson 9300w (euro model of 5040/6040) hasn't had any power issues and it seems that these are far more reliable as I haven't heard of mass power failures on the european forums...

Maybe it is something to do with how the power supply is designed, or does the UK/Europen voltage make a difference? I don't know. I'm not an engineer.

It's clear that Epson has dropped the ball with quality on the 5040 and hopefully it's replacement doesn't suffer from this reliability issue. I would think twice about buying a new model Epson until it has been out a while and we know how reliable it is.

I just calibrated mine with my colourmetre yesterday, the image is beautiful, so it really is a shame that the 5040 isn't as reliable as it should be.


----------



## Rmayrap

JewDaddy said:


> Rmayrap said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, just bought this projector and xant figure out why 4k enhancement and.frame interpolation are greyed out? I tried playing non 4k video and 4k and no affect, still greyed out. Processing is set to FINE not fast. Can someone help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4K and FI don’t work together with this projector. 4K enhancement and FI only work if you’re watching a 24hz source such as a blu-ray.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Thank you for the reply, so when playing back regular content via Amazon or YouTube in 1080p for example is it automatically upconverting to 4k without 4k enhancement on?


----------



## jwhn

Rmayrap said:


> Thank you for the reply, so when playing back regular content via Amazon or YouTube in 1080p for example is it automatically upconverting to 4k without 4k enhancement on?




Your streaming device might be upscaling.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

OrcusVaruna said:


> This was the lone rep who acknowledged the issue but I was quite pissed as I’m on my 3rd unit in less then 30 days since I purchased it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Acknowledgement is a good sign...even if it was only a lone rep. The stock response is typically "This is the first we're heard of that issue." 



LumensLover said:


> Hate to say I told you so. Underpaid call center employees will just move on to the next call. Nothing will get forwarded.


I don't see it as an individual employee's decision or inaction but rather as an organization's cultural business philosophy. If it bears out, it would be a direct reflection of Epson's corporate concern for the consumer.


----------



## gene4ht

Azekecse said:


> I think Epson, should give everyone who owns a 5040/6040 an option to upgrade to the 5050/6050, once announced, for a minimal cost. That would be the epitome of excellent customer service.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


This philosophy is not far fetched and has been implemented by other organizations. Onkyo, as a result a component failure, extended warranties several years beyond their norm, as well as provided an option for owners experiencing failure to upgrade (at very reasonable cost) to newer product.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-re...units-extending-warrranties-until-2018-a.html


----------



## timmyotule

CinemaPhan said:


> As for the 5040ub and 4000 being nearly identical except for lcd panels and a less sophisticated iris, it’s possible there is less of a load on the power supply if it is indeed identical. Or, owners of the 4000 complain on forums and in reviews less.


It's just that less HC4000 have been sold so there fewer failures in absolute terms. I bet the failure percentage rate is the same as the 5040UB.


----------



## Mr.G

OrcusVaruna said:


> My recent warranty replacement shipped with the new firmware installed. As to the power supply issue I called epson again and was told by the engineer/technician I spoke with that they have recently begun using *heavier duty capacitors* on the warranty replacements but he did not know if new shipments were shipping with this new fix. Also asked about the hc4000 and he said they use identical components outside of the lcd panel.


I remember several years ago that Viewsonic computer monitors were plagued by a bad batch of capacitors that lead to many failures and the same kind of online outrage. I owned one of the Viewsonics and was able to replace the capacitors myself and restore function to the monitor. I'm not recommending anyone try to repair their Epson projector just that bad batches of simple components (in this case, capacitors) can be the downfall of even the best conceived product.


----------



## Azekecse

Mr.G said:


> I remember several years ago that Viewsonic computer monitors were plagued by a bad batch of capacitors that lead to many failures and the same kind of online outrage. I owned one of the Viewsonics and was able to replace the capacitors myself and restore function to the monitor. I'm not recommending anyone try to repair their Epson projector just that bad batches of simple components (in this case, capacitors) can be the downfall of even the best conceived product.


Yes I concur Mr. G, I recall that my Rotel 1080 2 channel amp, had a similar issue, with blowing fuses. Rotel under warranty replaced the capacitors (larger), and that solved the myriad of issues. Also, wondering how many people don't have a surge on their Epson 5040/6040, and/or connected to legacy home electrical circuit, which maybe susceptible to surges. Just a quick thought.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## gene4ht

Azekecse said:


> Also, wondering how many people don't have a surge on their Epson 5040/6040, and/or connected to legacy home electrical circuit, which maybe susceptible to surges. Just a quick thought.


That’s a very real scenario...the 5040/6040 power supply being overly sensitive to line noise/variations and legacy home electrical circuits. This could/would account for the occurances of repeat/multiple failures while others experience none.


----------



## seplant

chickenbc49 said:


> there is a new Firmware 1.12/1.11 in the EU support ( 20/04/2018) :
> 
> https://www.epson.fr/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9300/Support-et-telechargements
> 
> don't know what changes in it , than every new Firmware ... :/


Has anyone tried the new 1.12 firmware yet? I installed it last night and didn't notice any obvious differences.


----------



## Uppsalaing

Of the tens (hundreds?) of devices that we own in our homes how many fail so often because of their power supplies?

Not many, in my experience.

I think this should be straight forward to engineer for, especially for a multi thousand dollar product... It's not like we're putting these in a commercial or extreame environment. Companies make electronics for the home all the time


----------



## kbarnes701

gene4ht said:


> That’s a very real scenario...the 5040/6040 power supply being overly sensitive to line noise/variations and legacy home electrical circuits. This could/would account for the occurances of repeat/multiple failures while others experience none.


Mine has always been connected to a brand new installation with brand new electrics and it still failed. I doubt if this is the cause. It's just a faulty component. It happens.


----------



## gene4ht

Hi Keith...not suggesting this represents all scenarios...just a realistic one if there are faulty components that may be sensitive to line variations. Even in new installations, power variations and surges do occur due to other circumstances...i.e. storms, utility power failures, etc. Do you use power surge protectors or installed power conditioners? Anyway, not ruling out other possible contributing factors.


----------



## VETDRMS

Interesting to hear of the power related issues. I am on the 3rd 5040... The first one began flickering / pulsing brightness after about 30 days. The next one went 800 hours before the lamp would just turn off and come back on. Occasionally it would flash bright white and present a momentary scrambled noise. The 3rd one has started the occasional flash/lamp out behavior... Pretty disappointing. Sure makes the end of warranty period scarier.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

gene4ht said:


> That’s a very real scenario...the 5040/6040 power supply being overly sensitive to line noise/variations and legacy home electrical circuits. This could/would account for the occurances of repeat/multiple failures while others experience none.




I don’t have a power conditioner on the unit but I have a commercial grade APC surge protector I got from work. We use these same surges in our server room and It is brand new as well. Also, I live in a brand new apartment building in a big city. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Uppsalaing said:


> Of the tens (hundreds?) of devices that we own in our homes how many fail so often because of their power supplies?
> 
> Not many, in my experience.
> 
> I think this should be straight forward to engineer for, especially for a multi thousand dollar product... It's not like we're putting these in a commercial or extreame environment. Companies make electronics for the home all the time





kbarnes701 said:


> Mine has always been connected to a brand new installation with brand new electrics and it still failed. I doubt if this is the cause. It's just a faulty component. It happens.





OrcusVaruna said:


> I don’t have a power conditioner on the unit but I have a commercial grade APC surge protector I got from work. We use these same surges in our server room and It is brand new as well. Also, I live in a brand new apartment building in a big city.


All of these scenarios support my earlier assertion that it would be prudent for Epson to be totally transparent by acknowledging these power supply failures, providing failure details, and offering a definitive course of action to remedy current as well as future products. IMO, this would go a long way in restoring consumer confidence not only with this particular product but in Epson as an organization. Unfortunately, far too many organizations today value performance metrics and quarterly results more than product quality/integrity and customer satisfaction. It is my hope that my earlier communications to first and second level product support and a response to Epson's survey will reach decision makers who can make a positive impact.


----------



## gene4ht

VETDRMS said:


> Interesting to hear of the power related issues. I am on the 3rd 5040... The first one began flickering / pulsing brightness after about 30 days. The next one went 800 hours before the lamp would just turn off and come back on. Occasionally it would flash bright white and present a momentary scrambled noise. The 3rd one has started the occasional flash/lamp out behavior... Pretty disappointing. *Sure makes the end of warranty period scarier.*


In my experience, not all failures are immediately catastrophic. Many causes of failures only weaken a device resulting in varying intermittent symptoms for a time until the failure is total. In any case, our failure examples appear to support the case for marginal or inadequate component design possibly making the power supply susceptible to external power variations. Of course, this is only speculation and begs for transparency on Epson's part. At the very least, Epson ala Onkyo, could offer extended warranty for units experiencing power supply failures.


----------



## old corps

seplant said:


> Has anyone tried the new 1.12 firmware yet? I installed it last night and didn't notice any obvious differences.


I just downloaded this to a thumb drive but I hesitate to install it in my 5040 because I'm thinking it's actually the same 1.11 here in the States that's already installed. ???

Ed


----------



## seplant

old corps said:


> I just downloaded this to a thumb drive but I hesitate to install it in my 5040 because I'm thinking it's actually the same 1.11 here in the States that's already installed. ???
> 
> Ed


Mine shows the version as 1.12 on the info screen.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

old corps said:


> I just downloaded this to a thumb drive but I hesitate to install it in my 5040 because I'm thinking it's actually the same 1.11 here in the States that's already installed. ???
> 
> 
> 
> Ed




On my new two week old warranty replacement the firmware is listed as 112


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

old corps said:


> I just downloaded this to a thumb drive but I hesitate to install it in my 5040 because I'm thinking it's actually the same 1.11 here in the States that's already installed. ???
> 
> Ed





seplant said:


> Mine shows the version as 1.12 on the info screen.


I've spent a career in HW, SW, and IT and can honestly say I'm a chicken when it comes to upgrading FW, OS's, etc. As J.K. Simmons says, "We know a thing or two because we've seen a thing or two!" I usually wait for a number of others to leap before I do.


----------



## old corps

seplant said:


> Mine shows the version as 1.12 on the info screen.


Thanks for the reply, appreciate it. I question it because most of it is dated 1/25/18 and it appears to be the European version of our 1.11. The other part is just a document showing how to change the firmware in the pj which was added this month. 

Ed


----------



## old corps

gene4ht said:


> I've spent a career in HW, SW, and IT and can honestly say I'm a chicken when it comes to upgrading FW, OS's, etc. As J.K. Simmons says, "We know a thing or two because we've seen a thing or two!" I usually wait for a number of others to leap before I do.


I'm with you!

Ed


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> 100% agree, I really like calibrating by eye to...its fun to see how other things effect this as that.
> 
> Do a natural HDR settings next lol! With or without scotch!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




🥃










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> 🥃
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hell yes!! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> 🥃
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Auto bright if in ambient lit room, auto if in very dark theater

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## raf77

old corps said:


> Thanks for the reply, appreciate it. I question it because most of it is dated 1/25/18 and it appears to be the European version of our 1.11. The other part is just a document showing how to change the firmware in the pj which was added this month.
> 
> Ed


European version of 1.11 is 1.11


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> Plus Harpervision doesn't use *Bright Cinema*
> Harpervision uses *Digital Cinema* which uses the P3 filter
> 
> 
> so I don't know why robc 1976 keeps insisting on quoting and comparing these settings to Harpervision ?


I was comparing because Dave's where at one time the best inmho and and a lot of others people's opinion so I compared all settings to those

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Auto bright if in ambient lit room, auto if in very dark theater
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Yes sir! It’s quite odd, color was so much easier to calibrate and noise is reduced as well compared with the same image enhancement settings as used in bright cinema. Also, shadow detail isn’t affected by switching between auto and auto bright like it is in bright cinema, only bright areas I noticed changes. Finally, I warmed up color temperature a lot as well because color overall was easier to calibrate. This allowed me to keep skin tones natural looking while using a much warmer color temp. I was unable to do same with bright cinema and had to cool down the image to maintain natural looking skin. I can’t wait to hear your thoughts 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> I was comparing because Dave's where at one time the best inmho and and a lot of others people's opinion so I compared all settings to those
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




I think everyone gets too caught up in the color filter being engaged or not. IMO the wide color gamut can be simulated by boosting the color saturation in modes that don’t use the filter to the point it is indistinguishable to me from a color stand point from the modes that use the filter. I know technically it’s not as “accurate”, and measurements wouldn’t bear out what I’m seeing, but humans are god awful with color. Flipping back and forth between say calibrated digital cinema and boosted saturation natural mode I can’t tell the difference at all in color. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

CcC_83 said:


> Hi everyone !
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Epson 9300 ( 6040 UB ) , Elite Screens VMAX II 120" , PS4 Pro and HDFury Linker... I can say that i'm a newbei about all settings and calibrations. I have tried to look for some picture settings for 4K HDR in 60 via Linker in forum but as you know i there are a lot of pages and descriptions and at the end i can say i lost myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone post picture settings for 4K HDR Gaming on PS4 Pro ? I will be so glad if someone can help ))




PS4 Pro with HDFury Linker. God of War 4K HDR




























Believe it or not, the picture actually looks much sharper and crisp in person. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikesp1

robc1976 said:


> Auto bright if in ambient lit room, auto if in very dark theater
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Natural mode and still in high lamp mode.
I dont get this, I even watch HDR in Digital cinema mode in eco lamp mode!


----------



## jerryyng

Is anyone here using the Epson 5040 with the Seymour XD or UF screen material? I'm looking to purchase a 2.35 format, 130" wide screen from Seymour AV but I'm on the fence over which material to select. First row seating is about 12' from screen so weave shouldn't be an issue and the room has no issues with ambient light.

I've been sampling the XD and UF materials side by side for the past few weeks and I don't notice a significant difference between the two most of the time. The XD material looks a bit brighter while the UF material seems to have better black levels. 

Would appreciate hearing from anyone who is using either of these screen materials or has compared them using the Epson 5040 to get their thoughts.

Thanks.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Mikesp1 said:


> Natural mode and still in high lamp mode.
> I dont get this, I even watch HDR in Digital cinema mode in eco lamp mode!


Different sizes and/or gains of screens?


----------



## robc1976

Mine is a 160" screen 1.3 gain stewart and completely dark theatre. I mean Eco wild probably be good also, but high lamp gives me a better picture. With eco mode you would more than likely up brightness/contrast
With high lamp you would turn then down so it minimal.

I have 1400hrs in high lamp ave will say I have had to up brightness a few clicks as lamp ages. I don't here the fan because of the acoustic treatments.


Mikesp1 said:


> Natural mode and still in high lamp mode.
> I dont get this, I even watch HDR in Digital cinema mode in eco lamp mode!












Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

[QUOTE

Believe it or not, the picture actually looks much sharper and crisp in person. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

I have a base ps4 and it looks sweet enough for me to question getting a ps pro. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikesp1

WynsWrld98 said:


> Different sizes and/or gains of screens?


Seymour XD screen, 2.2meter diagonal.


----------



## thelonghop

Long time listener, first time caller.

I'm finally getting a proper home theater and have some things in mind that I'd like to run by you all.

I've settled on the Epson 5040UB for my projector. The room is 21ft (252in) front to back and 12.5ft (148in) across, controlled for ambient light. I'm planning on a 120in wide 130in diagonal 2.39 screen, 50in CIH. (Question 1- projector central calls it 2.4, this website uses 2.35, actual scope is 2.39- is it just verbiage or are there actual differences in screen sizes and projected images to worry about?)

The wall the screen will be on is 8ft(90in) tall. I plan to center the screen vertically (leaving 15in top and bottom) and horizontally (leaving 14in on sides). 

I have two constraints. There is a riser and the furthest back the front row can sit is 9ft. This works pretty well I think- my eye level is about 36in in a recliner, which puts it at 1/3 screen height, leaving a 15deg vertical viewing angle for the top two thirds of the screen. The ceiling vaults to 10ft where the projector will be mounted, and throw distance is 13.5ft(162in). It can move a little further back, but it's prewired for projector install at that location.

Question 2 is, does that throw work for this setup and projector?

On the Epson site projector distance calculator I've entered the following- 16:9, ceiling mount, 10ft width (I'll only have 2.39 for 10ft, but this is the only way to enter 10ft width), ceiling height 10ft, floor to screen 1'3". This gives a Throw distance 13' 7.1" - 28' 6.2" [Ft/in], so my set up appears to barely be within range for throw distance. On the projector central review of the 5040UB they say at the front of the range is better, however using their calculator and a 1.1 gain screen it puts me outside of the 'green' area and into the "recommended image brightness for rooms with ambient light" range. Should that be a concern?

From the vaulted ceiling to center of the screen is 5ft4in (64in). With a drop ceiling mount, I figure it'll come down another 1ft, so make it 4ft4in (52in) from lens to screen center. Using the Epson lens shift checker and 120in wide 16:9 it shows +/- 5ft5in is within range. So I'm ok there, right? The projection distance chart in the manual isn't exactly clear to me though.

Thanks!


----------



## blipszyc

Moved into a new home about a year ago and finally getting around to getting my media room setup. My new place won't have a dedicated room, so I'll have to share the family room with my family. 

Couple questions:

How is this projector with ambient light? It seems like a very bright PJ. My room is mostly naturally dark due to the shape and location of it in the house, but there would still be some ambient light during prime viewing periods. Throw distance would be about 18 or 19 feet, considering a 130" diag. screen.
How is the 3D and which glasses work with it? (I know that 3D requires a lot of light, so it wouldn't be something we would watch all the time) I have some Xpand glasses from an old PJ and wondering if these will work or not.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Mikesp1 said:


> Seymour XD screen, 2.2meter diagonal.




Your using a white high gain screen so it makes sense you can get away with eco. Mine is a dark grey alr with the same gain. The effect is almost like a tv with hdr because the high lamp allows me to drive white brightness while being able to maintain inky blacks. If you tried that on your screen it would wash out the whole image. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

blipszyc said:


> Moved into a new home about a year ago and finally getting around to getting my media room setup. My new place won't have a dedicated room, so I'll have to share the family room with my family.
> 
> 
> 
> Couple questions:
> 
> 
> How is this projector with ambient light? It seems like a very bright PJ. My room is mostly naturally dark due to the shape and location of it in the house, but there would still be some ambient light during prime viewing periods. Throw distance would be about 18 or 19 feet, considering a 130" diag. screen.
> 
> How is the 3D and which glasses work with it? (I know that 3D requires a lot of light, so it wouldn't be something we would watch all the time) I have some Xpand glasses from an old PJ and wondering if these will work or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.













This is a 100” 1.2 gain alr screen in high ambient light, which I think is pretty awesome ambient light performance. The projector really is very bright. At your throw and size I would definitely go with an alr material. The Elite Cinegrey 3D is a fantastic cheap ALR screen. If you have cash to burn look at a darkstar9 or Black Diamond. 

The 3D performance is excellent once again an alr screen only helps with 3D

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## blipszyc

OrcusVaruna said:


> The 3D performance is excellent once again an alr screen only helps with 3D


Which 3D glasses do you use with the Epson?


----------



## migsta

OrcusVaruna said:


> This is a 100” 1.2 gain alr screen in high ambient light, which I think is pretty awesome ambient light performance. The projector really is very bright. At your throw and size I would definitely go with an alr material. The Elite Cinegrey 3D is a fantastic cheap ALR screen. If you have cash to burn look at a darkstar9 or Black Diamond.
> 
> The 3D performance is excellent once again an alr screen only helps with 3D
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


WoW, that looks way too bright. I guess everybody perceives image differently but I would never watch that bright. Doesn't look natural to my eyes.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

migsta said:


> WoW, that looks way too bright. I guess everybody perceives image differently but I would never watch that bright. Doesn't look natural to my eyes.




The picture is not true I was trying to do my best to capture both the image and the ambient light with an iPhone. As a result the image is blown out compared to what it looks like in person. This is a bit closer but it’s really hard to capture a true image from an iPhone in ambient light lol










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## migsta

migsta said:


> I just had my 3rd one die because of a power supply issue. The original one died, the second one died and now the third one (the third one Epson guaranteed was brand new and devoid of the power supply issue) just died as well. This is a bull**** product with bull**** QC - pardon the language. I would get rid of it I could but now have to play endless projector roulette with Epson. They should be embarrassed. I've owned a 6010 and 6030 and didn't have any issue with those. This 6040UB I would avoid like the plague because of this issue. The last Epson tech support guy I talked to leaned to the fact that there are known "power supply issues" without stating it directly. I was guaranteed this last unit was not one of those but here we go again.


Just had my 3rd replacement sent yesterday. Supposedly a new unit, looks like new at least. They pulled the box inside and just shipped the projector so not double boxed like brand new. But, they say it's new and it looks new. Up and online and came shipped with 1.12. Third time, really 4th if you count the originally bought unit, is a charm so we shall see.

Still, I'm going to follow up with Epson because I'm on the fence about keeping this unit seeing ALL of the failures. No faith at all with this product. But, the next big thing is the upgrade to the 6040UB (not available yet) or the LS10500 at probably twice the cost. Some people are getting full refunds for their units because of the failure. We'll see - following up with my dealer and his Epson rep. Good luck ALL with those who experience this issue and continued luck to those who have not.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

blipszyc said:


> Which 3D glasses do you use with the Epson?



These ones are the best value with minimal crosstalk without being too dark and are the most comfortable to boot. I ordered 5 different kinds off amazon and these were by far my favorites so I returned the rest and bought 3 more of these. 

EPSON-Compatible ValueView 3D Glasses. Rechargeable. ONE PAIR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACN8D9U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

blipszyc said:


> Which 3D glasses do you use with the Epson?





OrcusVaruna said:


> These ones are the best value with minimal crosstalk without being too dark and are the most comfortable to boot. I ordered 5 different kinds off amazon and these were by far my favorites so I returned the rest and bought 3 more of these.
> 
> EPSON-Compatible ValueView 3D Glasses. Rechargeable. ONE PAIR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACN8D9U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I concur with OrcusVaruna...I have six pair of the ValueVues...great performance, inexpensive, looks decent, light weight, and comfortable...even over prescription glasses. My research was done on the 3D Tech Talk thread and IMO, the most helpful post is this one by @*Stecchino 

*http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html

The available storage case from Amazon is very nice as well...


----------



## robc1976

JewDaddy said:


> PS4 Pro with HDFury Linker. God of War 4K HDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Believe it or not, the picture actually looks much sharper and crisp in person.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Going to get the ps4 pro tonight, PS4 Pro is best correct? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

I have HD fury linker hooked to xbox x can I run PS4 pro thru that linker st same time or do I need another linker? Or just manual switch them? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

jerryyng said:


> Is anyone here using the Epson 5040 with the Seymour XD or UF screen material? I'm looking to purchase a 2.35 format, 130" wide screen from Seymour AV but I'm on the fence over which material to select. First row seating is about 12' from screen so weave shouldn't be an issue and the room has no issues with ambient light.
> 
> I've been sampling the XD and UF materials side by side for the past few weeks and I don't notice a significant difference between the two most of the time. The XD material looks a bit brighter while the UF material seems to have better black levels.
> 
> Would appreciate hearing from anyone who is using either of these screen materials or has compared them using the Epson 5040 to get their thoughts.
> 
> Thanks.


I have a 150" 16:9 Seymour XD screen. I have first row seating about 11' back and I have to look very very hard and only on bright white scenes can I make out the weave. I went with the XD because I have a fully light controlled room so I felt like I didn't need any extra gain. Also, the UF has slightly less acoustic transparency. I think you will be happy with either choice. PS - I run HarperVision for HDR and it looks fantastic on the XD.

Pictures only do as much justice as the camera allows.


Spoiler





























Just for fun.


----------



## JewDaddy

robc1976 said:


> I have HD fury linker hooked to xbox x can I run PS4 pro thru that linker st same time or do I need another linker? Or just manual switch them?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Yes. Get the PS4 pro. That’s the one that can do 4K HDR gaming. 

As far as the Linker, it has two inputs. So you can have both the Xbox and PS4 hooked up but you will have to switch on the Linker which Input you want to use. If you have an AVR Receiver, you can just run everything through the linker and then through Receiver. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

...


----------



## thelonghop

OrcusVaruna said:


> ...


I bet you're lots of fun at parties! Page 1 of this thread has like five posts by non-owners, so don't get all uppity.

But if there's a better place to ask specific questions for this specific item where multiple knowledgeable posters are likely to see, I'm all ears.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

thelonghop said:


> I bet you're lots of fun at parties! Page 1 of this thread has like five posts by non-owners, so don't get all uppity.
> 
> 
> 
> But if there's a better place to ask specific questions for this specific item where multiple knowledgeable posters are likely to see, I'm all ears.



I love how we all infer intent where none exists. The dots weren’t actually referring to anyone or anything. My Tapatalk freaked out and posted a bunch of weird characters after my last post. I couldn’t delete the post and you can’t edit it and leave it blank so I went with an ellipses to infer a blank post. But what do I know I’m just the jack*** that thinks he’s the “life” of the party.🥂 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## thelonghop

OrcusVaruna said:


> I love how we all infer intent where none exists. The dots weren’t actually referring to anyone or anything. My Tapatalk freaked out and posted a bunch of weird characters after my last post. I couldn’t delete the post and you can’t edit it and leave it blank so I went with an ellipses to infer a blank post. But what do I know I’m just the jack*** that thinks he’s the “life” of the party.🥂
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


:laugh: My apologies then. Above the ellipses in your post is the thread title- "Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread" which I took as a jab at those who aren't (yet) owners.


----------



## robc1976

Sweet! I got the Pro


JewDaddy said:


> Yes. Get the PS4 pro. That’s the one that can do 4K HDR gaming.
> 
> As far as the Linker, it has two inputs. So you can have both the Xbox and PS4 hooked up but you will have to switch on the Linker which Input you want to use. If you have an AVR Receiver, you can just run everything through the linker and then through Receiver.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk












Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes sir! It’s quite odd, color was so much easier to calibrate and noise is reduced as well compared with the same image enhancement settings as used in bright cinema. Also, shadow detail isn’t affected by switching between auto and auto bright like it is in bright cinema, only bright areas I noticed changes. Finally, I warmed up color temperature a lot as well because color overall was easier to calibrate. This allowed me to keep skin tones natural looking while using a much warmer color temp. I was unable to do same with bright cinema and had to cool down the image to maintain natural looking skin. I can’t wait to hear your thoughts
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think these natural settings are a lot more realistic and richer. 

With super white on it clips at 1,000nits, with it off 700 or so. Might look a touch better with it off as strange as that sounds...but will keep it on because I dont know how much detail you lose with it clipping at 700ish.

The auto bright is much different, bright cinema it sucks with these settings its better off in a game, but looks better on in a movie? 

Still tweaking but these are amazing settings! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Judy did testing "auto bright" In lost tons of detail with it on

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Just did testing. "Auto bright" make me lose lots of detail in movie also

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Just did testing. "Auto bright" make me lose lots of detail in movie also
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Scratch that, had another setting engaged. 

So games = auto
Movies = auto bright

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

OrcusVaruna said:


> This is a 100” 1.2 gain alr screen in high ambient light, which I think is pretty awesome ambient light performance. The projector really is very bright. At your throw and size I would definitely go with an alr material. The Elite Cinegrey 3D is a fantastic cheap ALR screen. If you have cash to burn look at a darkstar9 or Black Diamond.
> 
> The 3D performance is excellent once again an alr screen only helps with 3D
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Dark Star 1.4 material was the best overhead light rejecting ALR screen I've ever owned. The Black Diamond 1.4 and .8 were the second best off axis light rejecting ALR screen I've owned. Currently the best off axis ALR screen I've owned is the Dark Energy Screens Pulsar screen.

I also owned a Elite Crooks Cinegrey 5D Aeon screen. It was a good budget material. I compare it's brightness and overhead/off axis light rejecting performance to the Screen Innovations Slate material.


----------



## Mikesp1

OrcusVaruna said:


> Your using a white high gain screen so it makes sense you can get away with eco. Mine is a dark grey alr with the same gain. The effect is almost like a tv with hdr because the high lamp allows me to drive white brightness while being able to maintain inky blacks. If you tried that on your screen it would wash out the whole image.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, I tried your setting and they are inderd completly washed out and extremely bright.
Your gsettings and gamma points are not that bad in eco mode. In fact one of the best settings I tried!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

LumensLover said:


> The Dark Star 1.4 material was the best overhead light rejecting ALR screen I've ever owned. The Black Diamond 1.4 and .8 were the second best off axis light rejecting ALR screen I've owned. Currently the best off axis ALR screen I've owned is the Dark Energy Screens Pulsar screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I also owned a Elite Crooks Cinegrey 5D Aeon screen. It was a good budget material. I compare it's brightness and overhead/off axis light rejecting performance to the Screen Innovations Slate material.



I would love to get a Black Diamond or Dark Energy Pulsar but for now the Cinegrey 3D does a great job and my screen came with the new sable frame 2 which was extremely easy to put together and well made. All my parts were in the box and it took me less then an hr from opening the box to getting it on the wall. I was nervous after all the horror stories I read of frames being cut wrong, holes not lined up, parts missing, etc. I also got it on sale Black Friday also for $299.99 for a 100”. For that price I’m a very happy customer. 

Just out of curiosity what is the cost of a Dark Energy Pulsar? I have seen one in person and it was a very impressive screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> I think these natural settings are a lot more realistic and richer.
> 
> With super white on it clips at 1,000nits, with it off 700 or so. Might look a touch better with it off as strange as that sounds...but will keep it on because I dont know how much detail you lose with it clipping at 700ish.
> 
> The auto bright is much different, bright cinema it sucks with these settings its better off in a game, but looks better on in a movie?
> 
> Still tweaking but these are amazing settings!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




I’m torn on autobright vs auto with these settings, I keep switching between the two. I think auto produces a much more natural image but autobright drives a simulated hdr effect that is pretty convincing but moves the image away from what the director intended. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Mikesp1 said:


> Yes, I tried your setting and they are inderd completly washed out and extremely bright.
> 
> Your gsettings and gamma points are not that bad in eco mode. In fact one of the best settings I tried!




Awesome I’m glad you like them 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## timmyotule

thelonghop said:


> (Question 1- projector central calls it 2.4, this website uses 2.35, actual scope is 2.39- is it just verbiage or are there actual differences in screen sizes and projected images to worry about?)
> 
> The wall the screen will be on is 8ft(90in) tall. I plan to center the screen vertically (leaving 15in top and bottom) and horizontally (leaving 14in on sides).
> 
> I have two constraints. There is a riser and the furthest back the front row can sit is 9ft. This works pretty well I think- my eye level is about 36in in a recliner, which puts it at 1/3 screen height, leaving a 15deg vertical viewing angle for the top two thirds of the screen. The ceiling vaults to 10ft where the projector will be mounted, and throw distance is 13.5ft(162in). It can move a little further back, but it's prewired for projector install at that location.
> 
> Question 2 is, does that throw work for this setup and projector?
> 
> On the Epson site projector distance calculator I've entered the following- 16:9, ceiling mount, 10ft width (I'll only have 2.39 for 10ft, but this is the only way to enter 10ft width), ceiling height 10ft, floor to screen 1'3". This gives a Throw distance 13' 7.1" - 28' 6.2" [Ft/in], so my set up appears to barely be within range for throw distance. On the projector central review of the 5040UB they say at the front of the range is better, however using their calculator and a 1.1 gain screen it puts me outside of the 'green' area and into the "recommended image brightness for rooms with ambient light" range. Should that be a concern?
> 
> From the vaulted ceiling to center of the screen is 5ft4in (64in). With a drop ceiling mount, I figure it'll come down another 1ft, so make it 4ft4in (52in) from lens to screen center. Using the Epson lens shift checker and 120in wide 16:9 it shows +/- 5ft5in is within range. So I'm ok there, right? The projection distance chart in the manual isn't exactly clear to me though.
> 
> Thanks!


Is the front wall 8' (96") or 7.5' (90") tall?

The content in the scope aspect ratios do vary from 2.35:1 to 2.39:1. It's only an inch or two difference in height. I would go with a 2.39 screen and if the content is 2.35 you'll have an extra inch (1/2 inch top and bottom) of image that is projected into the black border of the screen.

At the front of the range is better in that it gives you a brighter image. The calculators for screen size are basing things from the lens of the projector. I would mount the projector at a few inches back from what the calculator gives you to be sure it will fill the screen (or test it on a stand before mounting it). I like this calculator best: http://www.webprojectorcalculator.com/ The ProjectorCentral one just uses the brightest mode for how bright the image will be (and you don't want to run in that mode due to color issues). If you follow that link it shows that the various modes will give you for brightness. There is also a manual iris you can use on the projector to dim the image if it is too bright. 

You can't shift the image 5' 4" vertically at that image size and still get a 16:9 image down to your scope screen. The Webprojectorcalculator will give you the correct amount of shift you have. The math for how much you can shift the image is 94% of the 16:9 image height for your screen's height. So for your 120" wide scope screen you get a 50" high 16:9 image, .94 x 50 = 47" plus or minus from the center of the screen. If your screen is 18" off the floor the projector lens can only be 90" off of the floor. The more you use the lens shift vertically the less you can use it horizontally.

Are you doing an acoustically transparent screen? If not I would consider raising your screen up to about 24" from the floor so you have some more room for placing the center channel. With the screen 24" off of the floor you can have the projector lens a maximum of 96" from the bottom of the floor.


----------



## robc1976

Exactly, its a hard decision lol!


OrcusVaruna said:


> I’m torn on autobright vs auto with these settings, I keep switching between the two. I think auto produces a much more natural image but autobright drives a simulated hdr effect that is pretty convincing but moves the image away from what the director intended.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

I got a new bulb but don't want to install it if other bulb has life. What are the signs of a bulb going out? 

Here are signs I have but this may just be a aging bulb

1. I have 1400hrs in mostly high lamp mode.

2. When test patterns 1st come on image dims but then goes back to bright and stays.

3. I have had to turn up brightness 5-7 clicks from where it was when new. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> I’m torn on autobright vs auto with these settings, I keep switching between the two. I think auto produces a much more natural image but autobright drives a simulated hdr effect that is pretty convincing but moves the image away from what the director intended.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I believe most of us who did the measurement-based approach found that Auto tracks the ST.2084 gamma curve more accurately than auto(bright). But you may try increasing gamma C8 or even C7 to create a more dramatic HDR effect. You then may need to decrease C9 to reduce clipping. If you ever do get a meter, you may find as some of us did that the majority of your time will be spent working the gamma and in particular controls C7-C9. This is where the Epson's calibration limitations really show up. 

The HDR gamma curve should be increasing very rapidly from the mid-range to high-range to get the brightest highlights. But then most of us opted to try and roll it off vs. hard clipping at the very top (hence reducing C9).

So to summarize, you might try pushing the gamma higher in that C7-C8 range while using C9 (or potentially even contrast) to ensure you don't hard clip too early. 

Of course without a meter, its hard to say if this would help you track more closely to the target gamma or not, but it may be worth a try.


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> I believe most of us who did the measurement-based approach found that Auto tracks the ST.2084 gamma curve more accurately than auto(bright). But you may try increasing gamma C8 or even C7 to create a more dramatic HDR effect. You then may need to decrease C9 to reduce clipping. If you ever do get a meter, you may find as some of us did that the majority of your time will be spent working the gamma and in particular controls C7-C9. This is where the Epson's calibration limitations really show up.
> 
> The HDR gamma curve should be increasing very rapidly from the mid-range to high-range to get the brightest highlights. But then most of us opted to try and roll it off vs. hard clipping at the very top (hence reducing C9).
> 
> So to summarize, you might try pushing the gamma higher in that C7-C8 range while using C9 (or potentially even contrast) to ensure you don't hard clip too early.
> 
> Of course without a meter, its hard to say if this would help you track more closely to the target gamma or not, but it may be worth a try.


Jhwn, can you link that meter again I lost that link.

The C# your referring to are the 1-9 gamma points correct? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> Jhwn, can you link that meter again I lost that link.
> 
> The C# your referring to are the 1-9 gamma points correct?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Dis...524957066&sr=8-1&keywords=xrite+i1display+pro

Yes, C for Control. ; )


----------



## robc1976

So those are the sane gamma poits on the epson menu. Just making sure.


jwhn said:


> https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Dis...524957066&sr=8-1&keywords=xrite+i1display+pro
> 
> Yes, C for Control. ; )


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-i1Dis...524957066&sr=8-1&keywords=xrite+i1display+pro
> 
> Yes, C for Control. ; )


I have a boom mic I have to attach meter to. Does it require a special adapter? 

I think I am going to replace my bulb (1400 hrs). You need at least 125hrs to calibrate correct? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> So those are the sane gamma poits on the epson menu. Just making sure.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yes


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> I have a boom mic I have to attach meter to. Does it require a special adapter?
> 
> I think I am going to replace my bulb (1400 hrs). You need at least 125hrs to calibrate correct?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


This is the one I got but not sure if it will work for your stand. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0075DMYC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, good to get some hours on the lamp. For the record, I am at 3000 hours on my lamp. I probably should replace it but picture still looks pretty good.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> I have a boom mic I have to attach meter to. Does it require a special adapter?
> 
> I think I am going to replace my bulb (1400 hrs). You need at least 125hrs to calibrate correct?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Why replace the lamp so soon? The biggest drop in output occurs in the first few hundred hours. It won’t dim substantially from hr 1400 through the rest of the expected 3500hr life. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

I have 5 of those awesome! 3,000 hrs? I guess mine is fine? The test pattern was bright then went dim and also noticed it sounded like fan reduced when it did that. Maybe it is supposed to do that. It was on a "black clipping pattern".



jwhn said:


> This is the one I got but not sure if it will work for your stand.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0075DMYC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Yes, good to get some hours on the lamp. For the record, I am at 3000 hours on my lamp. I probably should replace it but picture still looks pretty good.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

OrcusVaruna said:


> Why replace the lamp so soon? It won’t dim substantially from hr 1400 through the rest of the expected 3500hr life.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Reference for this stated fact?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

WynsWrld98 said:


> Reference for this stated fact?




https://www.projectorreviews.com/ho...technical-side/the-life-of-a-projectors-lamp/

This is how all gas arc or energized gas fluorescent bulbs work. That is why they have a “burn-in” period. You could have used google before calling me out...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nonstopdoc1

Is there any information available on Epson 5040ub/6040ub's successor? Time frame? Specs?


----------



## gene4ht

nonstopdoc1 said:


> Is there any information available on Epson 5040ub/6040ub's successor? Time frame? Specs?


 Not yet...


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Why replace the lamp so soon? The biggest drop in output occurs in the first few hundred hours. It won’t dim substantially from hr 1400 through the rest of the expected 3500hr life.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh, I thought it would go out much sooner....So even in high lamp mode this still applies? I know nothing about these lamps lol! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jbarteli

Anyone else got the dune 4k pro allready?

I can not get a 4k 10bit signal out to the projector with the dune, only 8bit......


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Oh, I thought it would go out much sooner....So even in high lamp mode this still applies? I know nothing about these lamps lol!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jbarteli said:


> Anyone else got the dune 4k pro allready?
> 
> I can not get a 4k 10bit signal out to the projector with the dune, only 8bit......




On the website it states 4kp60hz playback. Due to chipset limitations the 5040ub is only capable of 8 bit hdr at 60hz. I don’t see any mention of other supported frame rates on the website.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jbarteli

OrcusVaruna said:


> On the website it states 4kp60hz playback. Due to chipset limitations the 5040ub is only capable of 8 bit hdr at 60hz. I don’t see any mention of other supported frame rates on the website.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Other framerates are supported, but when selecting 23,976hz it still doesn't work. I do not have this problem with dune solo 4k or sony x800 4k player.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jbarteli said:


> Other framerates are supported, but when selecting 23,976hz it still doesn't work. I do not have this problem with dune solo 4k or sony x800 4k player.




Hmm seems like it’s not range matching when switching frame rates. I would ask in the dune forum, maybe there is a setting you’re missing. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

Hi 
Anyone knows if it is possible to get 4K HDR 8bit on ps4 pro through Oppo 203 hdmi connection ? or still HDfury linker needed ?
BTW I have oppo and ps4 pro but to get to the cables behind it is a nightmare in my case so I am asking before such excercise 

Thanks.


----------



## jimmy.le.3388

Hi all,
If anyone could help me on the poblem im facing, couldnt figure the reason.
The Dolby atmos will not be decode throught my receiver as soon i plug the hdmi Epson in hdmi output from receiver.
So my setup:
Nvidia Shield or source audio> passthrough > sound bar dolby hdmi in > hdmi out tp espon either port 1 or 2
Scenario:
1) if i unplug the hdmi out from epsom, Dolby Atmos played and decoded, i can see the notification on my sound bar with word Dolby Atmos. Comfirmed and Tested audio, even with no picture, so that eliminated the problem setup on source, cable, sound bar.

2) if i plug the hdmi out into any computer monitor, tv, even cheap on, the audio also played Dolby Atmos with no problem.

3) but if i plug back hdmi output to epson, the soundbar doesnt even play, in order to play the same file, i must disable passthrough and play only via pcm

What could be wrong here?
I thought it was the source, but it wasnt because it played without plug in any hdmi out put from the receiver
I thought maybe hdmi cable, but that ruled out because i used same cable into computer monitor or regular tv and it played atmos fine as well

The only reason it wont play is plug in the epson, the receiver wont decode it. I tried both ports on hdmi, as well disabled hdmi link or any setting might relate to hdmi. In theory, the epson should be only display and audio is being decode via my receiver.


----------



## seplant

I'm thinking of going to an Apple TV for 4K HDR Netflix and YouTube content. I'm fed up trying to consistently get my Linker to work with my Roku Premiere+ and my 6040. Don't get me wrong, it does work, but I end up having to cycle power on either the Linker or the Roku almost every time to get it to work. 

Is everyone able to get 4K HDR from Netflix and YouTube using the ATV with their 5040/6040 by setting the ATV output to 24Hz?


----------



## roland6465

seplant said:


> I'm thinking of going to an Apple TV for 4K HDR Netflix and YouTube content. I'm fed up trying to consistently get my Linker to work with my Roku Premiere+ and my 6040. Don't get me wrong, it does work, but I end up having to cycle power on either the Linker or the Roku almost every time to get it to work.
> 
> Is everyone able to get 4K HDR from Netflix and YouTube using the ATV with their 5040/6040 by setting the ATV output to 24Hz?


YouTube isn't HDR on ATV. Probably won't be, either.


----------



## seplant

roland6465 said:


> YouTube isn't HDR on ATV. Probably won't be, either.


That's a bummer. There is a ton of 4K HDR demonstration material on YouTube that looks just phenomenal on this projector.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

seplant said:


> I'm thinking of going to an Apple TV for 4K HDR Netflix and YouTube content. I'm fed up trying to consistently get my Linker to work with my Roku Premiere+ and my 6040. Don't get me wrong, it does work, but I end up having to cycle power on either the Linker or the Roku almost every time to get it to work.
> 
> 
> 
> Is everyone able to get 4K HDR from Netflix and YouTube using the ATV with their 5040/6040 by setting the ATV output to 24Hz?




Netflix does range and frame rate match YouTube unfortunately no and probably never will because of the Google v Apple measuring contest. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Can I use the 30 bits per pixel (10 bit) setting on xbox x? doesn't the 5040 have a 10.2 chipset?









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## nathan

robc1976 said:


> I got a new bulb but don't want to install it if other bulb has life. What are the signs of a bulb going out?
> 
> Here are signs I have but this may just be a aging bulb
> 
> 1. I have 1400hrs in mostly high lamp mode.
> 
> 2. When test patterns 1st come on image dims but then goes back to bright and stays.
> 
> 3. I have had to turn up brightness 5-7 clicks from where it was when new.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


You've got more hours and probably more experience so far than I do with my 5040UB. I'm just wondering if some of the sudden dimming and back as well as noise is the auto iris? Just thought I'd mentioned it as it took me a while to realize what I was seeing when the iris was kicking in. It's especially noticeable on black and white output like credits.


----------



## robc1976

nathan said:


> You've got more hours and probably more experience so far than I do with my 5040UB. I'm just wondering if some of the sudden dimming and back as well as noise is the auto iris? Just thought I'd mentioned it as it took me a while to realize what I was seeing when the iris was kicking in. It's especially noticeable on black and white output like credits.


That is auto iris, I set that to high so it transitions faster

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## epetti

*Power Supply issue or something else?*

I just recently got my Epson 5040UB. Hooked it all up and spent a chunk of today getting the picture settings to a decent place. After working on it for a couple of hours (and lamp life is only at 11 hours so it's brand new), it suddenly shut off without warning. I turned it back on with the remote and it came right back on. But about another hour later it shut off again. Once again it came right back on with the remote without a problem.

Having spent a lot of time reading this forum before setting it up I've seen the dozens of threads about power supply threads. But the running theme with them seems to be that they shut off and won't come back on when that's the problem. So, am I paranoid from too much reading, or are these the first indications of already having to deal with that issue? And if not that, what are other possibilities for why it would be doing this?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## robc1976

epetti said:


> I just recently got my Epson 5040UB. Hooked it all up and spent a chunk of today getting the picture settings to a decent place. After working on it for a couple of hours (and lamp life is only at 11 hours so it's brand new), it suddenly shut off without warning. I turned it back on with the remote and it came right back on. But about another hour later it shut off again. Once again it came right back on with the remote without a problem.
> 
> Having spent a lot of time reading this forum before setting it up I've seen the dozens of threads about power supply threads. But the running theme with them seems to be that they shut off and won't come back on when that's the problem. So, am I paranoid from too much reading, or are these the first indications of already having to deal with that issue? And if not that, what are other possibilities for why it would be doing this?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Standby by mode (sleep mode). I had this happen before I believe.

Did it happen while sitting there with no movie playing? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

seplant said:


> I'm thinking of going to an Apple TV for 4K HDR Netflix and YouTube content. I'm fed up trying to consistently get my Linker to work with my Roku Premiere+ and my 6040. Don't get me wrong, it does work, but I end up having to cycle power on either the Linker or the Roku almost every time to get it to work.
> 
> Is everyone able to get 4K HDR from Netflix and YouTube using the ATV with their 5040/6040 by setting the ATV output to 24Hz?





roland6465 said:


> YouTube isn't HDR on ATV. Probably won't be, either.


Netflix works in 4K HDR on ATV 4K 24p setting.


----------



## robc1976

I get my meter tomorrow, can you link me that calibration thread you referenced


jwhn said:


> I believe most of us who did the measurement-based approach found that Auto tracks the ST.2084 gamma curve more accurately than auto(bright). But you may try increasing gamma C8 or even C7 to create a more dramatic HDR effect. You then may need to decrease C9 to reduce clipping. If you ever do get a meter, you may find as some of us did that the majority of your time will be spent working the gamma and in particular controls C7-C9. This is where the Epson's calibration limitations really show up.
> 
> The HDR gamma curve should be increasing very rapidly from the mid-range to high-range to get the brightest highlights. But then most of us opted to try and roll it off vs. hard clipping at the very top (hence reducing C9).
> 
> So to summarize, you might try pushing the gamma higher in that C7-C8 range while using C9 (or potentially even contrast) to ensure you don't hard clip too early.
> 
> Of course without a meter, its hard to say if this would help you track more closely to the target gamma or not, but it may be worth a try.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Silencer00

Anyone have any tips for getting the 5040UB 1.11 firmware update "EPSONPJ_t5112_111.bin" to work? I've tried formatting as FAT32 (via various methods: from OS X Disk Utility, from Windows 10's right-click context menu in explorer and the "cmd" prompt with "FORMAT E: /FS:FAT32 /q") and just dropping the file in the root of the device (tried 2 separate USB sticks), and still no go. 

The current info on my PJ's Version screen reads:
Main: 600Y0076648UWWV108
Video2: 68L28RMV104


This is what I'm doing:
1. Prepare the USB stick (FAT32, and only the bin file above on the drive in the root with no folder). Firmware 1.11 was downloaded here (https://epson.com/Support/wa00805)
2. Insert USB into middle USB port of 5040UB (next to the mini-usb port)
3. Ensure PJ is off, and unplug from power
4. Hold down PJ power button
5. Plug back in PJ
6. Wait until all lights turn on (blue power, and the two orange), then let go of power button
7. Lights all stay light for about 7ish seconds - at this time I can see the LED on the USB stick flash (it's being read by the PJ)
8. Lights turn off, power flashes a number of times and is then in standby mode.
9. Press power, PJ boots, and I can verify the update was NOT installed. 

I also attempted the "connect a computer" method, but no luck there either. It just never showed up as a removable drive on my macbook. 

I can't think of any other permutations and no way that I'm aware of to troubleshoot. Is there an issue upgrading from my version directly to 1.11? Any sanity checks I'm missing? 

Thanks!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Can I use the 30 bits per pixel (10 bit) setting on xbox x? doesn't the 5040 have a 10.2 chipset?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




It doesn’t really matter what you set it to as the Xbox will automatically adjust bit depth according to content being played. And the 10.2Gbps chip is capable of accepting up to a 12bit HDR signal at 24hz. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

robc1976 said:


> I get my meter tomorrow, can you link me that calibration thread you referenced


Calibrating HDR on Epson 5040/6040 Projectors thread

Step by step instructions are provided in post 344.


----------



## CcC_83

JewDaddy said:


> PS4 Pro with HDFury Linker. God of War 4K HDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Believe it or not, the picture actually looks much sharper and crisp in person.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why not believe )

Yep, your pictures look good here... Which settings do you use ? Can you post your settings ?


----------



## DireWolf08

Silencer00 said:


> Anyone have any tips for getting the 5040UB 1.11 firmware update "EPSONPJ_t5112_111.bin" to work? I've tried formatting as FAT32 (via various methods: from OS X Disk Utility, from Windows 10's right-click context menu in explorer and the "cmd" prompt with "FORMAT E: /FS:FAT32 /q") and just dropping the file in the root of the device (tried 2 separate USB sticks), and still no go.
> 
> The current info on my PJ's Version screen reads:
> Main: 600Y0076648UWWV108
> Video2: 68L28RMV104
> 
> 
> This is what I'm doing:
> 1. Prepare the USB stick (FAT32, and only the bin file above on the drive in the root with no folder). Firmware 1.11 was downloaded here (https://epson.com/Support/wa00805)
> 2. Insert USB into middle USB port of 5040UB (next to the mini-usb port)
> 3. Ensure PJ is off, and unplug from power
> 4. Hold down PJ power button
> 5. Plug back in PJ
> 6. Wait until all lights turn on (blue power, and the two orange), then let go of power button
> 7. Lights all stay light for about 7ish seconds - at this time I can see the LED on the USB stick flash (it's being read by the PJ)
> 8. Lights turn off, power flashes a number of times and is then in standby mode.
> 9. Press power, PJ boots, and I can verify the update was NOT installed.
> 
> I also attempted the "connect a computer" method, but no luck there either. It just never showed up as a removable drive on my macbook.
> 
> I can't think of any other permutations and no way that I'm aware of to troubleshoot. Is there an issue upgrading from my version directly to 1.11? Any sanity checks I'm missing?
> 
> Thanks!


I had issues as well. In the end, I think I traced it to my USB stick. I had a couple of USB 3.0 sticks that did not work, I think it might have been due to the fact they were 3.0 (why should that matter? No idea). I finally got it to work by using a microSD card with a USB 2.0 adapter. I formatted FAT32 (complete format, not quick format) and put the bin file as the only file on the drive.


----------



## epetti

robc1976 said:


> Standby by mode (sleep mode). I had this happen before I believe.
> 
> Did it happen while sitting there with no movie playing?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




It happened twice while a movie was actively playing.


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> I get my meter tomorrow, can you link me that calibration thread you referenced
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I would highly recommend starting with SDR calibration before trying the HDR calibration from that thread.

The HCFR link has a lot of good information - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...e-projector-display-calibration-software.html

If you look at the exchanges between aaranddeeman and Dominic that start in Dec-16 and go through Mar-17 there is a lot of detailed guidance for calibrating the 5040UB. I would follow this detailed back and forth between them. See this link for the starting point of the exchanges. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...ay-calibration-software-274.html#post48882529

This guide is a good general guide to HCFR as well although a bit outdated - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...te-user-guide-get-know-calibrate-your-tv.html

After you get comfortable doing an SDR calibration, then you can try the HDR approach.


----------



## epetti

*Calibrating for HDR*

Without going all the way to HCFR and buying a meter and everything, is there any basic calibration you can do for HDR with any test patterns or anything? I use Disney WOW to calibrate for SDR starting with Natural mode and got to a place that I'm very happy with. For HDR I switched to Digital Cinema mode, Auto HDR mode. The main issue is that everything looks too dark except for the highlights. I realize that with a projector you're not going to get the high nits of a true TV display. All I really want is to get an equal picture to the SDR with the wider color gamut, and then if I get just a tiny bit more headroom in the brights that's bonus, but otherwise just make the highlights roll off smoothly so they don't clip harshly.

My next steps were just going to be trying out a variety of the settings that are posted here. But I wasn't sure if for any of the calibration on a typical calibration disk would even work as a starting point for Brightness, Contrast, and Color settings or if the only option is to go all out with either paying someone or DIY calibration using HCFR and a light meter.


----------



## roland6465

epetti said:


> Without going all the way to HCFR and buying a meter and everything, is there any basic calibration you can do for HDR with any test patterns or anything? I use Disney WOW to calibrate for SDR starting with Natural mode and got to a place that I'm very happy with. For HDR I switched to Digital Cinema mode, Auto HDR mode. The main issue is that everything looks too dark except for the highlights. I realize that with a projector you're not going to get the high nits of a true TV display. All I really want is to get an equal picture to the SDR with the wider color gamut, and then if I get just a tiny bit more headroom in the brights that's bonus, but otherwise just make the highlights roll off smoothly so they don't clip harshly.
> 
> My next steps were just going to be trying out a variety of the settings that are posted here. But I wasn't sure if for any of the calibration on a typical calibration disk would even work as a starting point for Brightness, Contrast, and Color settings or if the only option is to go all out with either paying someone or DIY calibration using HCFR and a light meter.


For a quick fix, raise the gamma to 1 or 2, and play with brightness/contrast/iris to get some contrast. Also make sure your HDR Mode is Auto(Bright). Otherwise, I use Oledurt's digital Cinema, with tweaks to my eye.


----------



## avtoronto

epetti said:


> Without going all the way to HCFR and buying a meter and everything, is there any basic calibration you can do for HDR with any test patterns or anything? I use Disney WOW to calibrate for SDR starting with Natural mode and got to a place that I'm very happy with. For HDR I switched to Digital Cinema mode, Auto HDR mode. The main issue is that everything looks too dark except for the highlights. I realize that with a projector you're not going to get the high nits of a true TV display. All I really want is to get an equal picture to the SDR with the wider color gamut, and then if I get just a tiny bit more headroom in the brights that's bonus, but otherwise just make the highlights roll off smoothly so they don't clip harshly.
> 
> My next steps were just going to be trying out a variety of the settings that are posted here. But I wasn't sure if for any of the calibration on a typical calibration disk would even work as a starting point for Brightness, Contrast, and Color settings or if the only option is to go all out with either paying someone or DIY calibration using HCFR and a light meter.


All of the settings done by some users over the past couple of years were summarized last November in post 55110418.


----------



## epetti

roland6465 said:


> For a quick fix, raise the gamma to 1 or 2, and play with brightness/contrast/iris to get some contrast. Also make sure your HDR Mode is Auto(Bright). Otherwise, I use Oledurt's digital Cinema, with tweaks to my eye.


Thanks. I thought I was reading in the last few posts that with the latest firmware update it was preferred to use Auto instead of Auto (Bright) because Auto now does what Auto (Bright) used to do and Auto (Bright) really tends toward a lot of clipping?


----------



## roland6465

epetti said:


> Thanks. I thought I was reading in the last few posts that with the latest firmware update it was preferred to use Auto instead of Auto (Bright) because Auto now does what Auto (Bright) used to do and Auto (Bright) really tends toward a lot of clipping?


It's up to your eye. I use HDR1 for everything but animated films, then go to HDR2, but again, I've taken one of the settings from this thread, and tweaked to my eye.


----------



## robc1976

epetti said:


> Thanks. I thought I was reading in the last few posts that with the latest firmware update it was preferred to use Auto instead of Auto (Bright) because Auto now does what Auto (Bright) used to do and Auto (Bright) really tends toward a lot of clipping?


Yes, auto bright is only used on high ambient light. It washes image out, clips ect

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> I would highly recommend starting with SDR calibration before trying the HDR calibration from that thread.
> 
> The HCFR link has a lot of good information - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...e-projector-display-calibration-software.html
> 
> If you look at the exchanges between aaranddeeman and Dominic that start in Dec-16 and go through Mar-17 there is a lot of detailed guidance for calibrating the 5040UB. I would follow this detailed back and forth between them. See this link for the starting point of the exchanges. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...ay-calibration-software-274.html#post48882529
> 
> This guide is a good general guide to HCFR as well although a bit outdated - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...te-user-guide-get-know-calibrate-your-tv.html
> 
> After you get comfortable doing an SDR calibration, then you can try the HDR approach.


Will do, I hardly watch any SDR content though lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> I would highly recommend starting with SDR calibration before trying the HDR calibration from that thread.
> 
> The HCFR link has a lot of good information - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...e-projector-display-calibration-software.html
> 
> If you look at the exchanges between aaranddeeman and Dominic that start in Dec-16 and go through Mar-17 there is a lot of detailed guidance for calibrating the 5040UB. I would follow this detailed back and forth between them. See this link for the starting point of the exchanges. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...ay-calibration-software-274.html#post48882529
> 
> This guide is a good general guide to HCFR as well although a bit outdated - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...te-user-guide-get-know-calibrate-your-tv.html
> 
> After you get comfortable doing an SDR calibration, then you can try the HDR approach.


Jhwn I used to calibrate flat panel displays, its this similar? It wasn't HDR.

Also, did you use manascolia test patterns suite? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## epetti

*Color temperature number meaning*

Continuing in my slew of newbie questions. I noticed in Natural mode Color Temperature is an actually temperature to dial as needed. But in Bright Cinema and Digital Cinema it is just a number like "5". Do those numbers have any correspondence with anything other than just relative values? And any idea why Epson chose this dual numbering scheme depending on mode?


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> Jhwn I used to calibrate flat panel displays, its this similar? It wasn't HDR.
> 
> Also, did you use manascolia test patterns suite?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yes, it should generally be the same process if you calibrated the grey scale and CMS with a meter. HDR is significantly more challenging given the standards are still being defined and projectors pose a lot of limitations that require workarounds or trade offs. So having the SDR approach under your belt should make things easier. 

Yes, I did use his patterns but its easier to learn HCFR by using the internally generated patterns. You just need to connect your laptop directly. At some point you will want to verify whether your signal chain is introducing errors that can't be corrected (by comparing measurements using the internal patterns going direct with external patterns through your signal chain). That was the case for me so I used his patterns for the final calibration.

There are some new free patterns available as well. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2943380-hdr10-test-patterns-set.html


----------



## jwhn

epetti said:


> Without going all the way to HCFR and buying a meter and everything, is there any basic calibration you can do for HDR with any test patterns or anything? I use Disney WOW to calibrate for SDR starting with Natural mode and got to a place that I'm very happy with. For HDR I switched to Digital Cinema mode, Auto HDR mode. The main issue is that everything looks too dark except for the highlights. I realize that with a projector you're not going to get the high nits of a true TV display. All I really want is to get an equal picture to the SDR with the wider color gamut, and then if I get just a tiny bit more headroom in the brights that's bonus, but otherwise just make the highlights roll off smoothly so they don't clip harshly.
> 
> My next steps were just going to be trying out a variety of the settings that are posted here. But I wasn't sure if for any of the calibration on a typical calibration disk would even work as a starting point for Brightness, Contrast, and Color settings or if the only option is to go all out with either paying someone or DIY calibration using HCFR and a light meter.


My understanding is that technically one should not adjust contrast and brightness using patterns for HDR as you do with SDR. If, for example, you were using an OLED display. But with projectors we are trying to make HDR work so we do so in practice. 

You could try using these patterns to adjust your contrast, brightness, etc. The main thing though to get HDR to look as intended is the gamma and you can't really set that accurately by eye using patterns. If you don't want to go down the measurement-based approach, your best bet would be copying settings and then adjusting from there. 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2943380-hdr10-test-patterns-set.html


----------



## migsta

Anybody here go from a 5040UB/6040UB to an LS10500? Or, does anybody just own this projector and can comment. Wondering if this projector is worth upgrading to?


----------



## TheExecutive

Posted this in another thread but figured it would be worth posting here as well:

Bought my 5040ub projector on 02/04/18 and put 100 or so hours on it. Today, I go to turn it on and it is completely unresponsive. No lights nothing. Checked power to the outlet and it is fine. I can only assume it is the power supply. Emailed Epson support on it. Anyone have any tips or advice on how to navigate Epson? 

Also,

From time to time when I turned it on the fan got really loud and also heard what I can only describe as coil whine coming from it at all times. It was in the basement and I could hear that whining all the way upstairs. Its how I could tell whether I forgot to turn the darn thing off. Any idea what that coil whine was?


----------



## old corps

TheExecutive said:


> Posted this in another thread but figured it would be worth posting here as well:
> 
> Bought my 5040ub projector on 02/04/18 and put 100 or so hours on it. Today, I go to turn it on and it is completely unresponsive. No lights nothing. Checked power to the outlet and it is fine. I can only assume it is the power supply. Emailed Epson support on it. Anyone have any tips or advice on how to navigate Epson?
> 
> Also,
> 
> From time to time when I turned it on the fan got really loud and also heard what I can only describe as coil whine coming from it at all times. It was in the basement and I could hear that whining all the way upstairs. Its how I could tell whether I forgot to turn the darn thing off. Any idea what that coil whine was?



CALL them & you'll have a replacement within 2 days! Your unit is experiencing the known power supply issue.


Ed


----------



## old corps

Anymore 5040/6040 owners install the 1.12 firmware??? I'm waiting for you to go 1st.......


Ed


----------



## OrcusVaruna

TheExecutive said:


> Posted this in another thread but figured it would be worth posting here as well:
> 
> 
> 
> Bought my 5040ub projector on 02/04/18 and put 100 or so hours on it. Today, I go to turn it on and it is completely unresponsive. No lights nothing. Checked power to the outlet and it is fine. I can only assume it is the power supply. Emailed Epson support on it. Anyone have any tips or advice on how to navigate Epson?
> 
> 
> 
> Also,
> 
> 
> 
> From time to time when I turned it on the fan got really loud and also heard what I can only describe as coil whine coming from it at all times. It was in the basement and I could hear that whining all the way upstairs. Its how I could tell whether I forgot to turn the darn thing off. Any idea what that coil whine was?




Yup as another user said it’s the power supply. I am currently on my 3rd unit in 45 days since I purchased mine...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

epetti said:


> Without going all the way to HCFR and buying a meter and everything, is there any basic calibration you can do for HDR with any test patterns or anything? I use Disney WOW to calibrate for SDR starting with Natural mode and got to a place that I'm very happy with. For HDR I switched to Digital Cinema mode, Auto HDR mode. The main issue is that everything looks too dark except for the highlights. I realize that with a projector you're not going to get the high nits of a true TV display. All I really want is to get an equal picture to the SDR with the wider color gamut, and then if I get just a tiny bit more headroom in the brights that's bonus, but otherwise just make the highlights roll off smoothly so they don't clip harshly.
> 
> 
> 
> My next steps were just going to be trying out a variety of the settings that are posted here. But I wasn't sure if for any of the calibration on a typical calibration disk would even work as a starting point for Brightness, Contrast, and Color settings or if the only option is to go all out with either paying someone or DIY calibration using HCFR and a light meter.




It’s my understanding that most patterns are pretty useless with calibrating hdr. You pretty much have to use a meter to get an accurate calibration. With that said I don’t and have settled on some setting I find appealing. I have a tv that was professionally calibrated for hdr, I set it up next to my projector and fed them the exact same source and then adjusted the epson by eye. To me it looks great and that is all that matters to me haha. 

But I’m thankful to many users such as robc, lumenslovers, etc. whom have given me many tips along the way to improve my settings. Are they hdr spec accurate? No. But they look great enough to me to not warrant spending $500 on a calibration. I may pick up the xrite light meter at some point to have some fun though. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Jhwn I used to calibrate flat panel displays, its this similar? It wasn't HDR.
> 
> Also, did you use manascolia test patterns suite?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




I can’t wait to hear how your calibration attempt goes. Depending on how hard you find it I may pick up one of those xrite meters for fun. Definitely keep me posted 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Socal Rich

Hey guys,
Getting ready to buy a projector soon for my 2:35:1 screen and saw these the lens memory which will work great for my screen. Its kinda depressing reading about the 5040's power issues. Is there any other projectors I should look at that have the lens memory and don't have the power issues or has Epson solved the problem with recent stock? Debating on the 5040ub & 6040ub if that one doesn't have power issues.
Thanks guys.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Socal Rich said:


> Hey guys,
> Getting ready to buy a projector soon for my 2:35:1 screen and saw these the lens memory which will work great for my screen. Its kinda depressing reading about the 5040's power issues. Is there any other projectors I should look at that have the lens memory and don't have the power issues or has Epson solved the problem with recent stock? Debating on the 5040ub & 6040ub if that one doesn't have power issues.
> Thanks guys.


JVC RS440 biggest minus I see is expensive lamp replacement but I think the cheaper 4K/almost 4K alternatives (e.g., DLP) aren't going to have enough vertical lens shift to do a CIH setup. I have a 5040 but was also considering the JVC RS440. Had I known about the power supply issue I would have bought the JVC but so far the power supply issue hasn't bit me (yet). If mine does encounter it I'll send my own unit in for repair don't want to play refurb roulette not knowing exactly what I'm getting...


----------



## Socal Rich

WynsWrld98 said:


> JVC RS440 biggest minus I see is expensive lamp replacement but I think the cheaper 4K/almost 4K alternatives (e.g., DLP) aren't going to have enough vertical lens shift to do a CIH setup. I have a 5040 but was also considering the JVC RS440. Had I known about the power supply issue I would have bought the JVC but so far the power supply issue hasn't bit me (yet). If mine does encounter it I'll send my own unit in for repair don't want to play refurb roulette not knowing exactly what I'm getting...



What about the 2018 JVC DLA-X590RBK? I see prices on them have dropped to around the same price as the 6040UB. My budget is no more then $4K. I haven't seen the RS440 so I will check that one out as well.

http://www.us.jvc.com/projectors/procision/dla_x590r/


----------



## WynsWrld98

Socal Rich said:


> What about the 2018 JVC DLA-X590RBK? I see prices on them have dropped to around the same price as the 6040UB. My budget is no more then $4K. I haven't seen the RS440 so I will check that one out as well.
> 
> http://www.us.jvc.com/projectors/procision/dla_x590r/


Those are essentially the same projector. You could ask AVSForum sales team if there are any differences plus get a quote.


----------



## ayrton

DireWolf08 said:


> I had issues as well. In the end, I think I traced it to my USB stick. I had a couple of USB 3.0 sticks that did not work, I think it might have been due to the fact they were 3.0 (why should that matter? No idea). I finally got it to work by using a microSD card with a USB 2.0 adapter. I formatted FAT32 (complete format, not quick format) and put the bin file as the only file on the drive.


My USB 3 Stick Fat 32 works like a champ. Win 10

https://www.integralmemory.com/faq/usb-3.0-are-usb-3-flash-drives-backward-compatible-usb-2-ports


----------



## ayrton

old corps said:


> Anymore 5040/6040 owners install the 1.12 firmware??? I'm waiting for you to go 1st.......
> 
> 
> Ed


Tonight!


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> I would highly recommend starting with SDR calibration before trying the HDR calibration from that thread.
> 
> The HCFR link has a lot of good information - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...e-projector-display-calibration-software.html
> 
> If you look at the exchanges between aaranddeeman and Dominic that start in Dec-16 and go through Mar-17 there is a lot of detailed guidance for calibrating the 5040UB. I would follow this detailed back and forth between them. See this link for the starting point of the exchanges. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...ay-calibration-software-274.html#post48882529
> 
> This guide is a good general guide to HCFR as well although a bit outdated - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...te-user-guide-get-know-calibrate-your-tv.html
> 
> After you get comfortable doing an SDR calibration, then you can try the HDR approach.


Man, this Is VERY involved. Will be a some time before I even attempt this, . May wait until new projector comes out

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> Man, this Is VERY involved. Will be a some time before I even attempt this, . May wait until new projector comes out
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yeah, there is a bit of a learning curve. It's actually less complicated than it initially appears - the lack of easy to follow, current documentation makes it more difficult.


----------



## Silencer00

DireWolf08 said:


> I had issues as well. In the end, I think I traced it to my USB stick. I had a couple of USB 3.0 sticks that did not work, I think it might have been due to the fact they were 3.0 (why should that matter? No idea). I finally got it to work by using a microSD card with a USB 2.0 adapter. I formatted FAT32 (complete format, not quick format) and put the bin file as the only file on the drive.


Holyyyy sheeeet - that did it. What a giant finicky PITA haha. Went searching in an old dusty box of "tech junk" for a USB 2.0 USB drive, did the full (non quick) format and tossed the .bin on there. Bing bang boom and done. Why on earth is it this specific? Was it the full format? I'll never know haha. Thanks DireWolf08!


----------



## fritz11

Hi!
My old Screen was more ore less
13 Years old!
So i go yesterday to buy a new one
Elitescreen 150"
Now i Think i can live with that Picture!!
Cu
Ftc


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> Yeah, there is a bit of a learning curve. It's actually less complicated than it initially appears - the lack of easy to follow, current documentation makes it more difficult.


Going to just go to the calibrate for dummy tab in that link

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## epetti

robc1976 said:


> Standby by mode (sleep mode). I had this happen before I believe.
> 
> Did it happen while sitting there with no movie playing?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




So I think I figured out what was happening. At least I have a working theory. I was watching Blu-rays when it shut down. But I also have an Apple TV connected through the receiver. It automatically goes to sleep after an hour and I think through HDMI Link which is on by default it shut down the Epson with it. I turned HDMI Link off. Note only time will tell if that was actually the cause.


----------



## robc1976

ayrton said:


> Tonight!


What are the changes? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

epetti said:


> robc1976 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Standby by mode (sleep mode). I had this happen before I believe.
> 
> Did it happen while sitting there with no movie playing?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I think I figured out what was happening. At least I have a working theory. I was watching Blu-rays when it shut down. But I also have an Apple TV connected through the receiver. It automatically goes to sleep after an hour and I think through HDMI Link which is on by default it shut down the Epson with it. I turned HDMI Link off. Note only time will tell if that was actually the cause.
Click to expand...

Good call. HDMI link is fine for a bedroom or basic living room setup, but wreaks havoc on dedicated theaters with lots of components in the chain.


----------



## old corps

roland6465 said:


> Good call. HDMI link is fine for a bedroom or basic living room setup, but wreaks havoc on dedicated theaters with lots of components in the chain.


I sure wish I could get it to work again (it WAS working) with my Onkyo RZ710 and Sony X800 player! SO MUCH easier to control with the 5040's remote. HDMI link is ON in each device........ Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Ed


----------



## old corps

robc1976 said:


> What are the changes?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


+1!
I'd like to know as well. 

Ed


----------



## ayrton

robc1976 said:


> What are the changes?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


No clue!


----------



## Lithium

old corps said:


> I sure wish I could get it to work again (it WAS working) with my Onkyo RZ710 and Sony X800 player! SO MUCH easier to control with the 5040's remote. HDMI link is ON in each device........ Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Ed


I've lost HDMI Link with my Onkyo in the chain a few times. It usually occurred after a power outage. I don't know exactly what fixes it but I typically power cycle the Onkyo (by unplugging it and turning it back on) while the projector is on and then I put the projector in standby. The Onkyo should shut off as part of the chain. If it does it will be re-linked and will turn on when powering the projector back on.


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> Yeah, there is a bit of a learning curve. It's actually less complicated than it initially appears - the lack of easy to follow, current documentation makes it more difficult.


Jhwn, the new HCFR has 2020 color space option correct? I actually have used this software lol! But it was only BT709/1080p and I used a spyder.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> Jhwn, the new HCFR has 2020 color space option correct? I actually have used this software lol! But it was only BT709/1080p and I used a spyder.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



Yes and many other features related to HDR thanks to the developer, Zoyd. It can do pretty much everything that the commercial programs that cost a few hundred dollars can do and maybe even more.

It even has a Rec.709 inside rec.2020 option that is good for projector modes that don't use the filter. He actually added features and provided guidance just for those of us trying to calibrate HDR for projectors. Once you are ready to dive into that we can help you over in that thread. It was a bit of work but my HDR calibration turned out excellent. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## old corps

Lithium said:


> I've lost HDMI Link with my Onkyo in the chain a few times. It usually occurred after a power outage. I don't know exactly what fixes it but I typically power cycle the Onkyo (by unplugging it and turning it back on) while the projector is on and then I put the projector in standby. The Onkyo should shut off as part of the chain. If it does it will be re-linked and will turn on when powering the projector back on.



Thanks for the reply, appreciate it! I'll give that a try & keep my fingers crossed.


Ed


----------



## OrcusVaruna

old corps said:


> Thanks for the reply, appreciate it! I'll give that a try & keep my fingers crossed.
> 
> 
> Ed




Buy a harmony it makes life so much easier lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> Yes and many other features related to HDR thanks to the developer, Zoyd. It can do pretty much everything that the commercial programs that cost a few hundred dollars can do and maybe even more.
> 
> It even has a Rec.709 inside rec.2020 option that is good for projector modes that don't use the filter. He actually added features and provided guidance just for those of us trying to calibrate HDR for projectors. Once you are ready to dive into that we can help you over in that thread. It was a bit of work but my HDR calibration turned out excellent.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Almost ready, do I need a driver to be able to use the generated test patterns from laptop to Blu-ray? I read somewhere I need a driver for graphics card but that could be the oudated guide

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> Almost ready, do I need a driver to be able to use the generated test patterns from laptop to Blu-ray? I read somewhere I need a driver for graphics card but that could be the oudated guide
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



You just connect your laptop direct to use the automatic patterns. You would need patterns on a disk to calibrate through the blu-ray. I would save that for later to check that you get the same results.

You don't need a driver - it's built in.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> You just connect your laptop direct to use the automatic patterns. You would need patterns on a disk to calibrate through the blu-ray. I would save that for later to check that you get the same results.
> 
> You don't need a driver - it's built in.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Has to be bluray disk? , how about USB drive? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

robc1976 said:


> Has to be bluray disk? , how about USB drive?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Ohhh I will just use the generated ones from HCFR then. I use maniscolia on usb drive

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> You just connect your laptop direct to use the automatic patterns. You would need patterns on a disk to calibrate through the blu-ray. I would save that for later to check that you get the same results.
> 
> You don't need a driver - it's built in.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You connect the laptop directly to Blu-ray correct? That's what my calibrator did so I assume same here? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lucidthinker

thelonghop said:


> Long time listener, first time caller.
> 
> I'm finally getting a proper home theater and have some things in mind that I'd like to run by you all.
> 
> I've settled on the Epson 5040UB for my projector. The room is 21ft (252in) front to back and 12.5ft (148in) across, controlled for ambient light. I'm planning on a 120in wide 130in diagonal 2.39 screen, 50in CIH. (Question 1- projector central calls it 2.4, this website uses 2.35, actual scope is 2.39- is it just verbiage or are there actual differences in screen sizes and projected images to worry about?)
> 
> The wall the screen will be on is 8ft(90in) tall. I plan to center the screen vertically (leaving 15in top and bottom) and horizontally (leaving 14in on sides).
> 
> I have two constraints. There is a riser and the furthest back the front row can sit is 9ft. This works pretty well I think- my eye level is about 36in in a recliner, which puts it at 1/3 screen height, leaving a 15deg vertical viewing angle for the top two thirds of the screen. The ceiling vaults to 10ft where the projector will be mounted, and throw distance is 13.5ft(162in). It can move a little further back, but it's prewired for projector install at that location.
> 
> Question 2 is, does that throw work for this setup and projector?
> 
> On the Epson site projector distance calculator I've entered the following- 16:9, ceiling mount, 10ft width (I'll only have 2.39 for 10ft, but this is the only way to enter 10ft width), ceiling height 10ft, floor to screen 1'3". This gives a Throw distance 13' 7.1" - 28' 6.2" [Ft/in], so my set up appears to barely be within range for throw distance. On the projector central review of the 5040UB they say at the front of the range is better, however using their calculator and a 1.1 gain screen it puts me outside of the 'green' area and into the "recommended image brightness for rooms with ambient light" range. Should that be a concern?
> 
> From the vaulted ceiling to center of the screen is 5ft4in (64in). With a drop ceiling mount, I figure it'll come down another 1ft, so make it 4ft4in (52in) from lens to screen center. Using the Epson lens shift checker and 120in wide 16:9 it shows +/- 5ft5in is within range. So I'm ok there, right? The projection distance chart in the manual isn't exactly clear to me though.
> 
> Thanks!


I have an almost identical setup to what you describe. I have a 125" 2.35 aspect ratio, 1.1 gain screen from Silver Ticket
STR-235125-WAB. 

To answer you questions, there are actual differences between a 2.35 and 2.39 images. It is not much but there is a difference. The great thing about the Epson is that it has motorized zoom and lens memories so that you set the a variety of zoom settings to account for the differences in aspect ratio for movies.

Memory 1 -- used 2.35 image and set zoom/vertical adjustment to have image fill entire 2.35 screen
Memory 2 -- used 16:9 or 1.79 image and set zoom/vertical adjustment to have image fill screen from top to bottom with unprojected area on the sides
Memory 3 -- used 1.85 image and set zoom/vertical adjustment to have image fill screen from top to bottom with unprojected area on the sides. There is less "empty" space on the left and right than memory 2.

You are on the right track regarding throw distance. There is only a 1" difference between the two different calculators you used (13'6" vs 13' 7"). You generally don't have to worry about the differences as the 5040UB has such a large range in it's zoom. In your case, you plan to mount the projector right on the edge of the range. Also, note that the throw distance is measured from the front of the lens. I have used Projector Central's calculator to mount 3 projectors and I have found their calculations to be very accurate. 

The brightness indicator on the Projector Central site is a little misleading. The "recommended image brightness for rooms with ambient light" is of no concern. It is just saying that you have enough image brightness/lumens to overcome rooms with alot of ambient light. For your screen you have 49fL (foot lamberts) image brightness. The recommended range is from 16 to 22 fL. The Epson is one of the brightest home theater projectors out there. I run my Epson in Eco mode which is dimmer than High/Normal mode and my screen is plenty bright.

Like you my the top of screen is 15 inches from the top of the ceiling. I have 8 inches of space between the ceiling and the projector. Note: The Epson has a ton of range in the vertical adjustment as well. So, you can have a larger difference between the projector lens and the top of the screen.


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> You connect the laptop directly to Blu-ray correct? That's what my calibrator did so I assume same here?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



I would suggest moving the discussion to the HCFR thread or the dedicated Epson HDR calibration thread. You will likely have a lot of questions as you go through the process and there are people way more experienced than me who can help you. Probably don't want to drag the readers in this thread through all the back and forth. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CinemaPhan

*Refurbished 5040ub's identified somehow?*

Are refurbished Epson 5040ub projectors identified with a revision sticker (such as "REV-1A" or the like), or some other method like a colored paint dot applied to the projector data plate? 

My experience in installing mods in electronic equipment (USAF Avionics) was we would identify revised units with a "rev" sticker or paint dot of particular color, or in some cases a new data plate, so visually a tech could see they were dealing with a previously modified piece of equipment when the unit was serviced in the future.

Epson support has allegedly stated to multiple forum members that refurbished projectors have been "modified" to prevent further failures as part of the argument of sending a new "unmodified stock" projector for warranty replacement. 

Of course, there are many posts here that appear to refute that claim, because they detail their experiences of multiple failures, including with refurbished projectors.

I am just trying to get a handle on the scope of the fail rate after reading the informal survey results here in the forum. And, was interested in whether Epson is externally identifying units as modified (besides the outer box have refurbished stickers on them). In time, if there is some identifier, the next step is are new, recently shipped units displaying the same revision identifier?

Anyone care to share what they have noticed on the external case their projector?


----------



## roland6465

Other than scuffs and the removal of the clear protective tape over the labels, nothing I noticed on any of my three refurbs. They arrived with nothing but foam packing. When I finally got them to concede to ship a new one, it came in an original box with the mount, extra bulb, remote, etc.


----------



## TheExecutive

TheExecutive said:


> Posted this in another thread but figured it would be worth posting here as well:
> 
> Bought my 5040ub projector on 02/04/18 and put 100 or so hours on it. Today, I go to turn it on and it is completely unresponsive. No lights nothing. Checked power to the outlet and it is fine. I can only assume it is the power supply. Emailed Epson support on it. Anyone have any tips or advice on how to navigate Epson?
> 
> Also,
> 
> From time to time when I turned it on the fan got really loud and also heard what I can only describe as coil whine coming from it at all times. It was in the basement and I could hear that whining all the way upstairs. Its how I could tell whether I forgot to turn the darn thing off. Any idea what that coil whine was?


So wanted to post my experience with Epson. I called Monday evening about the problem noted above and talked for about 15 minutes total. They shipped me out a brand new one and it arrived about 2 hours ago. So somewhere around 40 hours from calling to drop off at my door. Quite impressed with the turnaround time.

Unboxed the new unit and set it up and this SOB is whisper quiet. Not a noise. As noted above on the old unit there was a loud whine and the fan would sound like a jet engine from time to time when starting it up. That did not start until about a week after owning the unit. I am definitely going to RMA this new unit if it starts up with those same symptoms again. 

However, the customer support was excellent. Keeping my fingers crossed that this unit will survive the long haul. I bought square trade 4 year protection when I bought my first unit so I should be good to go. 

Anyone know if I have to report this or anything to square trade? Don't want to void my extended warranty or anything.

Also, anyone have any suggested calibration settings?


----------



## euphoriapt

euphoriapt said:


> Hi guys, i would like to know what screensize i can use on my man cave with a distance between the screen and couch being 4meters.
> I would also like to know if the 5040ub supports 220v.
> 
> Thank you !!


Anyone, please ?


----------



## gene4ht

TheExecutive said:


> So wanted to post my experience with Epson. I called Monday evening about the problem noted above and talked for about 15 minutes total. They shipped me out a brand new one and it arrived about 2 hours ago. So somewhere around 40 hours from calling to drop off at my door. Quite impressed with the turnaround time.
> 
> Unboxed the new unit and set it up and this SOB is whisper quiet. Not a noise. As noted above on the old unit there was a loud whine and the fan would sound like a jet engine from time to time when starting it up. That did not start until about a week after owning the unit. I am definitely going to RMA this new unit if it starts up with those same symptoms again.
> 
> However, the customer support was excellent. Keeping my fingers crossed that this unit will survive the long haul. I bought square trade 4 year protection when I bought my first unit so I should be good to go.
> 
> Anyone know if I have to report this or anything to square trade? Don't want to void my extended warranty or anything.
> 
> Also, anyone have any suggested calibration settings?


Can honestly say there hasn't been a pattern, that I'm aware of, to the onset of any of the reported symptoms. My 5040 is about a 18 mos old and only exhibited the "jet engine" at start up after about 6 mos. During the second 6 mos, it only occurred intermittently. During this last 6 mos, it continued to do it intermittently. Early in this thread about a year ago, I mentioned contacting Epson support about this unusual symptom. Why the fan would turn on at high speed to cool off a cold lamp at start up makes no sense. IMO, the PJ's logic is "lost" probably in some indeterminate state. First level support and their manager had no plausible or logical explanation for why this was occurring. Unless Epson's design engineers become involved, we will likely never understand why this is occurring. Lastly, it's always a good idea to report any unusual behavior...never hurts to go on record.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jwhn said:


> I would suggest moving the discussion to the HCFR thread or the dedicated Epson HDR calibration thread. You will likely have a lot of questions as you go through the process and there are people way more experienced than me who can help you. Probably don't want to drag the readers in this thread through all the back and forth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



@robc1976 tag me in whatever thread you move this too I’m very interested and want to follow along. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

TheExecutive said:


> So wanted to post my experience with Epson. I called Monday evening about the problem noted above and talked for about 15 minutes total. They shipped me out a brand new one and it arrived about 2 hours ago. So somewhere around 40 hours from calling to drop off at my door. Quite impressed with the turnaround time.
> 
> 
> 
> Unboxed the new unit and set it up and this SOB is whisper quiet. Not a noise. As noted above on the old unit there was a loud whine and the fan would sound like a jet engine from time to time when starting it up. That did not start until about a week after owning the unit. I am definitely going to RMA this new unit if it starts up with those same symptoms again.
> 
> 
> 
> However, the customer support was excellent. Keeping my fingers crossed that this unit will survive the long haul. I bought square trade 4 year protection when I bought my first unit so I should be good to go.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if I have to report this or anything to square trade? Don't want to void my extended warranty or anything.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, anyone have any suggested calibration settings?



I use and like these a lot but there are loads of other settings posted from way more experienced people then I. 




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> @robc1976 tag me in whatever thread you move this too I’m very interested and want to follow along.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


For sure! Setting up as we speak

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## theaterofpain

OrcusVaruna said:


> I use and like these a lot but there are loads of other settings posted from way more experienced people then I


These are terrible settings just for the fact that they would have the projector NOT run in ECO mode and have the projector's iris set to auto so that it keeps clicking nicely above your head. Like you said, there are a ton of better calibration settings that don't have these shortcomings (assuming you are in a light controlled room).


----------



## OrcusVaruna

theaterofpain said:


> These are terrible settings just for the fact that they would have the projector NOT run in ECO mode and have the projector's iris set to auto so that it keeps clicking nicely above your head. Like you said, there are a ton of better calibration settings that don't have these shortcomings (assuming you are in a light controlled room).




Not a light controlled room, using an alr screen, and my auto iris is barely audible even when everything is muted... By the way you could try disagreeing without the nasty, it’s just plain rude and totally makes people want to participate in forums...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

theaterofpain said:


> These are terrible settings just for the fact that they would have the projector NOT run in ECO mode and have the projector's iris set to auto so that it keeps clicking nicely above your head. Like you said, there are a ton of better calibration settings that don't have these shortcomings (assuming you are in a light controlled room).


I don't agree that Non-ECO mode and auto iris automatically makes the settings "terrible". HDR in ECO mode will generally not be optimal because even using high lamp, projectors don't put out enough lumens for HDR. ECO is going to reduce that further. And auto iris will improve blacks. 

Your logic is sort of like saying a BMW performs terribly because the turn signals are too loud.


----------



## jwhn

robc1976 said:


> For sure! Setting up as we speak
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


There is an existing thread if you want to discuss HDR calibration for the 5040. Might be good to keep all the info in one place. I can send the link if you don't have it...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jwhn said:


> I don't agree that Non-ECO mode and auto iris automatically makes the settings "terrible". HDR in ECO mode will generally not be optimal because even using high lamp, projectors don't put out enough lumens for HDR. ECO is going to reduce that further. And auto iris will improve blacks.
> 
> 
> 
> Your logic is sort of like saying a BMW performs terribly because the turn signals are too loud.



This made me chuckle. Thank you for that haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

theaterofpain said:


> These are terrible settings just for the fact that they would have the projector NOT run in ECO mode and have the projector's iris set to auto so that it keeps clicking nicely above your head. Like you said, there are a ton of better calibration settings that don't have these shortcomings (assuming you are in a light controlled room).


Not terrible, you know nothing about HDR

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> I don't agree that Non-ECO mode and auto iris automatically makes the settings "terrible". HDR in ECO mode will generally not be optimal because even using high lamp, projectors don't put out enough lumens for HDR. ECO is going to reduce that further. And auto iris will improve blacks.
> 
> Your logic is sort of like saying a BMW performs terribly because the turn signals are too loud.


Exactly

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> This made me chuckle. Thank you for that haha
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Me too, I had a 900whp bmw









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

theaterofpain said:


> These are terrible settings just for the fact that they would have the projector NOT run in ECO mode and have the projector's iris set to auto so that it keeps clicking nicely above your head. Like you said, there are a ton of better calibration settings that don't have these shortcomings (assuming you are in a light controlled room).


Mine is a complete custom theater, sound proofed, completely dark, anti reflected black paint and those settings are best on this projector I have used.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

theaterofpain said:


> These are terrible settings just for the fact that they would have the projector NOT run in ECO mode and have the projector's iris set to auto so that it keeps clicking nicely above your head. Like you said, there are a ton of better calibration settings that don't have these shortcomings (assuming you are in a light controlled room).


Also use high on iris is better transition from dark to light scenes. You can eliminate the noise with simple accustics not that it needs it.

Did you even try these settings? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikesp1

theaterofpain said:


> These are terrible settings just for the fact that they would have the projector NOT run in ECO mode and have the projector's iris set to auto so that it keeps clicking nicely above your head. Like you said, there are a ton of better calibration settings that don't have these shortcomings (assuming you are in a light controlled room).


I agree with you that in a light controled room one can get terrific results in eco mode. (after the latest firmware)
Whenever I try high lamp modes provided by forum mombers everything clips and is washed out.

I am using cinema for BT709 and Digital Cinema for BT2020. The filter gives me the best colors and blacks possible with this projector. The Iris is even at -7 using eco mode and with the Digital Cinema filter in place.


----------



## exm

euphoriapt said:


> Anyone, please ?


Google is your friend. https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd51749.pdf

Projector
Electrical
Specifications
Rated
frequency
50/60
Hz
Power
supply
100 to 240 VAC
±10%
3.8 to 1.7 A


158
Power
consumption
(100
to 120 V)
Operating:
High
Power
Consumption
mode:
373 W
ECO
Power
Consumption
mode:
283 W
Standby:
0.27 W (Communication
Off), 2.3 W (Communication
On)
Power
consumption
(220
to 240 V)
Operating:
High
Power
Consumption
mode:
355 W
ECO
Power
Consumption
mode:
271 W
Standby:
0.35 W (Communication
Off), 2.4 W (Communication
On


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Mikesp1 said:


> I agree with you that in a light controled room one can get terrific results in eco mode. (after the latest firmware)
> 
> Whenever I try high lamp modes provided by forum mombers everything clips and is washed out.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using cinema for BT709 and Digital Cinema for BT2020. The filter gives me the best colors and blacks possible with this projector. The Iris is even at -7 using eco mode and with the Digital Cinema filter in place.




I really think it’s very dependent on screen type. I’m using a very dark grey alr screen. On this screen I get the benefits of high lamp mode (more brightness) without washing out of the image. For hdr especially I can throw some serious light onto the screen and it literally looks like my vizio p series but twice the size. Also the settings I posed clip right at 1000nits and if I drop the contrast down to 42 it doesn’t clip until 1800-2000nits. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

Mikesp1 said:


> I agree with you that in a light controled room one can get terrific results in eco mode. (after the latest firmware)
> Whenever I try high lamp modes provided by forum mombers everything clips and is washed out.
> 
> I am using cinema for BT709 and Digital Cinema for BT2020. The filter gives me the best colors and blacks possible with this projector. The Iris is even at -7 using eco mode and with the Digital Cinema filter in place.


Keep in mind that a lot of the settings using high lamp are designed to get an "HDR effect" with the brightest possible spectral highlights. If you are using Auto(bright) with the firmware update things will clip and be washed out. Most of the settings here were done before the update so you should use Auto and not Auto(bright) to replicate those settings. 

The picture can "look good" in ECO mode (I use ECO mode for SDR). but that is not the same thing as bringing out the HDR effect of HDR content as much as possible.


----------



## longbow

Does anyone know if the mounting screw size on the 5040 is the same as on the 3700? Could you use the same mount for both units?


----------



## gene4ht

longbow said:


> Does anyone know if the mounting screw size on the 5040 is the same as on the 3700? Could you use the same mount for both units?


Disclaimer...don 't know for certain. However, even if the mounting screws were the same thread and size, it's highly unlikely that the 3700 mount would fit the 5040. The 5040 is a very large projector and has it's own unique mounting screw pattern.


----------



## inspector

Hey all,


It seems that the dreaded 3D ghosting/crosstalk is rearing its ugly head after one year of working perfectly.


My first one was terrible but received a new one in May of 2017. The unit played perfectly until this week. I put on THE MAZE (g/c on the arms and torso at the beginning) GOG (the helicopter ride at the beginning) ROGUE ONE ASWS ( when the ship with the wings lands at the beginning) and of course JAWS 3 3D (at the beginning the rocks on the right.)


Here is the person you send to what he asks for. I'll be getting my stuff ready this week to send to him.


In order to research the issue you're having with the 3D ghosting on the 5040/6040UB, we would like for you to provide screen captures of the following when the issue occurs:

-3D menu, Info menu, Signal and Image menu,
-What source device is being used to play the 3D content and screenshot of the current 3D settings from the menu of the source device (blu ray player, cable box, etc.)
-The title of the movie, and a time stamp where the issue can clearly be seen.
-Manufacturer of the 3D Glasses being used (if not Epson glasses).

Please feel free to pass this information along to anyone experiencing these issues and contact us to provide us with this information. I can be reached directly at 1.562.981.3840 ext 19014

Best Regards,

Courtney T.
Epson America


[email protected]


----------



## longbow

gene4ht said:


> Disclaimer...don 't know for certain. However, even if the mounting screws were the same thread and size, it's highly unlikely that the 3700 mount would fit the 5040. The 5040 is a very large projector and has it's own unique mounting screw pattern.
> 
> View attachment 2398770


Now THAT is a mounting plate! Where did you order it from? Can it mound really close to the ceiling? I am looking fro something with minimal drop.

Thanks!


----------



## Dominic Chan

longbow said:


> Now THAT is a mounting plate! Where did you order it from? Can it mound really close to the ceiling? I am looking fro something with minimal drop.


That’s only the plate (looks like a Chief one). You also need the mount.
Some Chief mounts are low profile, but if you don’t use an extension it may be difficult to adjust the yaw (pointing left/right relative to the screen).


----------



## gene4ht

longbow said:


> Now THAT is a mounting plate! Where did you order it from? Can it mound really close to the ceiling? I am looking fro something with minimal drop.
> 
> Thanks!


It's a Chief mount...an RPA357 (mount) and SLB357 (plate) combo...can mount 3" from the ceiling. It's arguably the best ceiling mount around...it costs a bit more than competitive mounts but it is the most sturdy, most flexible, and easily adjustable mount available...especially when removing and reinstalling the projector. It's available from Projector People...ask for Kirk.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48956017

Edit: @*Dominic Chan* makes a valid point...mounting 3" from the ceiling like mine makes it a bit difficult to access the phillips adjustment screws. However, this is easily overcome by using a long or extended phillips screwdriver...bought a 20" one from Lowes.


----------



## roland6465

I had a thought on my walk this morning about the power supply issue...

I once took my 4030 to an "Epson authorized" repair shop to try to get dust out. If my 6040 power supply fails again (I really like the picture this one), could I take it back there and get a better power supply swapped in? I have 2 years left on my warranty, and they have me on file as refusing another refurb, but I really like this particular unit.


----------



## longbow

Dominic Chan said:


> That’s only the plate (looks like a Chief one). You also need the mount.
> Some Chief mounts are low profile, but if you don’t use an extension it may be difficult to adjust the yaw (pointing left/right relative to the screen).





gene4ht said:


> It's a Chief mount...an RPA357 (mount) and SLB357 (plate) combo...can mount 3" from the ceiling. It's arguably the best ceiling mount around...it costs a bit more than competitive mounts but it is the most sturdy, most flexible, and easily adjustable mount available...especially when removing and reinstalling the projector. It's available from Projector People...ask for Kirk.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48956017
> 
> Edit: @*Dominic Chan* makes a valid point...mounting 3" from the ceiling like mine makes it a bit difficult to access the phillips adjustment screws. However, this is easily overcome by using a long or extended phillips screwdriver...bought a 20" one from Lowes.


Thanks to you both. I have bought my last 4 projectors from Projectorpeople. I will give Kirk a call. :grin:


----------



## gene4ht

longbow said:


> Thanks to you both. I have bought my last 4 projectors from Projectorpeople. I will give Kirk a call. :grin:


OT here but congrats on your 8500 as well!


----------



## longbow

gene4ht said:


> OT here but congrats on your 8500 as well!


Thanks!

I called PP. I have bought projectors from them for 20 years now!

Talked to my rep, Donna and ordered the 5040UB and the Chief RPAU mount. They will get here Tuesday and sit next to the 8500 for a month until the new room is finished. At least I can see the boxes while I wait..... (patience is hard!):serious:


----------



## Justin Phillips

euphoriapt said:


> Hi guys, i would like to know what screensize i can use on my man cave with a distance between the screen and couch being 4m ( 160" approx.).
> I would also like to know if the 5040ub supports 220v.
> 
> Thank you !!


It look s like it supports 220:

Projector Electrical Specifications
Rated frequency 50/60 Hz
Power supply 100 to 240 VAC ±10%
3.8 to 1.7 A
158
Power consumption
(100 to 120 V)
Operating:
High Power Consumption mode: 373 W
ECO Power Consumption mode: 283 W
Standby:
0.27 W (Communication Off), 2.3 W (Communication On)
Power consumption
(220 to 240 V)
Operating:
High Power Consumption mode: 355 W
ECO Power Consumption mode: 271 W
Standby:
0.35 W (Communication Off), 2.4 W (Communication On)

Also for a calculator of project distances vs screen size you can go here: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm and plug in different parameters you are working with. This is one of the most versatile projectors out there.


----------



## mhbernheim

*EPSON 5040ub (4K and HDR Capabilities Question)*

am I mistaken, or the epson 5040ub cant display 4k + HDR? Apple tv 4k says it cant display hdr while playing on the epson 5040ub, it switches to sdr. it will, however, display 1080p with HDR content fine...


----------



## Natrix1973

mhbernheim said:


> am I mistaken, or the epson 5040ub cant display 4k + HDR? Apple tv 4k says it cant display hdr while playing on the epson 5040ub, it switches to sdr. it will, however, display 1080p with HDR content fine...


Answer is in this post.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-471.html#post56079386


----------



## mhbernheim

Natrix1973 said:


> Answer is in this post.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-471.html#post56079386


thanks so much! i had actually stumbled on that and added the 24hz hdr version but gave up since I saw the menu of apple tv stutter


----------



## avtoronto

For those interested, I asked Epson about the latest V1.12 firmware and this was the response I got: "The new 1.12 fw version brought a very minor update that changed the default HDR mode from Mode 2 to Mode 1, which is the brightest HDR mode. Aside from that no changes were made the projectors operating system with the new update.".


----------



## Dominic Chan

avtoronto said:


> For those interested, I asked Epson about the latest V1.12 firmware and this was the response I got: "The new 1.12 fw version brought a very minor update that changed the default HDR mode from Mode 2 to Mode 1, which is the brightest HDR mode. Aside from that no changes were made the projectors operating system with the new update.".


v1.11 uses Mode 2 for Auto, and Mode 1 for Auto Bright. The latter seems to lead to excessive clipping is is only recommended for people who need or prefer the extra brightness.
Making Mode 1 the default seems a step backwards.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

mhbernheim said:


> am I mistaken, or the epson 5040ub cant display 4k + HDR? Apple tv 4k says it cant display hdr while playing on the epson 5040ub, it switches to sdr. it will, however, display 1080p with HDR content fine...




It can set the resolution to 4K SDR 60hz, put chroma to 4:2:0 and enable frame rate and range matching. It will automatically switch to HDR when it detects an enabling source such a a 4K HDR Netflix or Amazon show. The Apple TV wants to force 12bit 60hz HDR natively regardless of content which the epsons limited hdmi chipset is not capable of, so the above settings circumvent that allowing you to get HDR on the sources that actually are true HDR.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

OrcusVaruna said:


> It can set the resolution to 4K SDR 60hz, put chroma to 4:2:0 and enable frame rate and range matching. It will automatically switch to HDR when it detects an enabling source such a a 4K HDR Netflix or Amazon show. The Apple TV wants to force 12bit 60hz HDR natively regardless of content which the epsons limited hdmi chipset is not capable of, so the above settings circumvent that allowing you to get HDR on the sources that actually are true HDR.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I thought the setting to use is SDR 24Hz with match frame rate amd dynamc range? This setting will stream 4K or 4K/HDR Per the source material. Is there any advantage to using 4K SDR as the default instead?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> I thought the setting to use is SDR 24Hz with match frame rate amd dynamc range? This setting will stream 4K or 4K/HDR Per the source material. Is there any advantage to using 4K SDR as the default instead?




Using a 24hz base setting will give you terrible menu lag using 4K SDR 60hz means I get buttery smooth menus. The Apple TV does the proper range and frame rate matching to the content whether in 24hz or 60hz. I just prefer silky smooth menus any day. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## The_Forth_Man

OrcusVaruna said:


> Using a 24hz base setting will give you terrible menu lag using 4K SDR 60hz means I get buttery smooth menus. The Apple TV does the proper range and frame rate matching to the content whether in 24hz or 60hz. I just prefer silky smooth menus any day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's true but the apple tv always upscales 1080p content to 4k so you dont get to use the Epson upscaling.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

The_Forth_Man said:


> That's true but the apple tv always upscales 1080p content to 4k so you dont get to use the Epson upscaling.




I personally find epsons upscaling to be atrocious. It introduces noise everywhere no matter what settings I am using. I find having my Xbox one x or Apple TV do the upscaling and turning all image enhancement off produces the best results. I do get a very slightly better image feeding the native 1080 resolution and turning off all image enhancement but it requires me to use different settings. In essence what’s calibrated for an upscaled 4K feed is no longer calibrated if I feed it at native 1080. This proved to be more annoying than it was worth for an improvement I only noticed when switching back and forth looking for differences. But to each their own that’s why threads like these exist 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## The_Forth_Man

OrcusVaruna said:


> I personally find epsons upscaling to be atrocious. It introduces noise everywhere no matter what settings I am using. I find having my Xbox one x or Apple TV do the upscaling and turning all image enhancement off produces the best results. I do get a very slightly better image feeding the native 1080 resolution and turning off all image enhancement but it requires me to use different settings. In essence what’s calibrated for an upscaled 4K feed is no longer calibrated if I feed it at native 1080. This proved to be more annoying than it was worth for an improvement I only noticed when switching back and forth looking for differences. But to each their own that’s why threads like these exist
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree and also let the Apple Tv do the upscaling. I was merely pointing out the limitations of the apple Matching abilities.


----------



## jimmy.le.3388

Hi,
Does anyone notice any diff while on HDR vs SDR? 

I dont see any difference at all. The only diff is when i turn on dynamic, but then it applies toward SDR and HDR too.


So while i test with 4k HDR 30hz 12bit, i see no difference at all with 4k SDR content.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jimmy.le.3388 said:


> Hi,
> Does anyone notice any diff while on HDR vs SDR?
> 
> I dont see any difference at all. The only diff is when i turn on dynamic, but then it applies toward SDR and HDR too.
> 
> 
> So while i test with 4k HDR 30hz 12bit, i see no difference at all with 4k SDR content.


HDR and SDR have very different EOTFs.

How did you do your test? The HDR test pattern needs to include the metadata that puts the projector in the HDR mode (or you can manually switch the projector to the HDR mode).


----------



## roland6465

OrcusVaruna said:


> I personally find epsons upscaling to be atrocious. It introduces noise everywhere no matter what settings I am using. I find having my Xbox one x or Apple TV do the upscaling and turning all image enhancement off produces the best results. I do get a very slightly better image feeding the native 1080 resolution and turning off all image enhancement but it requires me to use different settings. In essence what’s calibrated for an upscaled 4K feed is no longer calibrated if I feed it at native 1080. This proved to be more annoying than it was worth for an improvement I only noticed when switching back and forth looking for differences. But to each their own that’s why threads like these exist
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, I'm not a fan, either. I let my Oppo 203 upscale BRDs and DirecTV (which still looks bad garbage in = garbage out), and the ATV upscale streaming.


----------



## jimmy.le.3388

Dominic Chan said:


> HDR and SDR have very different EOTFs.
> 
> 
> 
> How did you do your test? The HDR test pattern needs to include the metadata that puts the projector in the HDR mode (or you can manually switch the projector to the HDR mode).




Well, i use content with HDR and so i double check with info signal and it says HDR 12bit 
vs content which is not HDR and only SDR, 

I use just my eyes and i dont see any diff, yes content is switchable between HDR and SDR.

No difference on appearance, not like OLED LG tv i have, HDR sees complete difference


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

jimmy.le.3388 said:


> Well, i use content with HDR and so i double check with info signal and it says HDR 12bit
> vs content which is not HDR and only SDR,
> 
> I use just my eyes and i dont see any diff, yes content is switchable between HDR and SDR.
> 
> No difference on appearance, not like OLED LG tv i have, HDR sees complete difference
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Your OLED probably puts out 400-700 nits. Your projector probably puts out 100-150 max. So of course HDR won't look the same on your projector. This is why there is so much discussion on this thread about HDR calibration. I can tell a difference but I've spent way too much time on calibration. And again the difference won't be as dramatic as you see with your OLED.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

jimmy.le.3388 said:


> Well, i use content with HDR and so i double check with info signal and it says HDR 12bit
> vs content which is not HDR and only SDR,
> 
> I use just my eyes and i dont see any diff, yes content is switchable between HDR and SDR.
> 
> No difference on appearance, not like OLED LG tv i have, HDR sees complete difference
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What is your source, for your content?

You should be able to see a difference between HDR and SDR... Is your projector calibrated?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jimmy.le.3388 said:


> Well, i use content with HDR and so i double check with info signal and it says HDR 12bit
> vs content which is not HDR and only SDR,
> 
> I use just my eyes and i dont see any diff, yes content is switchable between HDR and SDR.
> 
> No difference on appearance, not like OLED LG tv i have, HDR sees complete difference
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Try some of the hdr specific settings posted in this thread. The difference between HDR based content and SDR based content is pretty dramatic ime. Here are the settings I’m currently using for HDR and SDR.









And here is a collection of settings by professional calibrators and well known forum contributors.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

^^^Nice compilation ...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## TheExecutive

OrcusVaruna said:


> I personally find epsons upscaling to be atrocious. It introduces noise everywhere no matter what settings I am using. I find having my Xbox one x or Apple TV do the upscaling and turning all image enhancement off produces the best results. I do get a very slightly better image feeding the native 1080 resolution and turning off all image enhancement but it requires me to use different settings. In essence what’s calibrated for an upscaled 4K feed is no longer calibrated if I feed it at native 1080. This proved to be more annoying than it was worth for an improvement I only noticed when switching back and forth looking for differences. But to each their own that’s why threads like these exist
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Absolutely. I forced everything to a 1080P setup (denon x4400, PS4) and the "4k enhancement" was atrocious. YIKES.


----------



## TheExecutive

OK so I would like to get both HDR and 4k signal but heard grumbling about the bandwidth limitation with this projector. Any updates on this? What bluray players are people using with this projector to get both?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

TheExecutive said:


> OK so I would like to get both HDR and 4k signal but heard grumbling about the bandwidth limitation with this projector. Any updates on this? What bluray players are people using with this projector to get both?



Really only matter for 4K 60hz HDR gaming. In order to play games in HDR you need to purchase an HD Fury Linker to scale the signal to 4K 8bit HDR in order for the projector to process it. For BD and Netflix it will accept 10 Bit 24hz HDR signals natively. 

Here is my projector playing an XBOX One X HDR game with the signal processed to 8bit HDR by the Linker.












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> Really only matter for 4K 60hz HDR gaming. In order to play games in HDR you need to purchase an HD Fury Linker to scale the signal to 4K 8bit HDR in order for the projector to process it. For BD and Netflix it will accept 10 Bit 24hz HDR signals natively.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



But Apple TV is the only device that Netflix will send a 4K 24hz HDR signal to. All other devices are either 4K or HDR but not both.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jwhn said:


> But Apple TV is the only device that Netflix will send a 4K 24hz HDR signal to. All other devices are either 4K or HDR but not both.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Fair enough I guess I never thought about that since I have an ATV 4K and a Linker on my Xbox so I am able to get the HDR signal regardless lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> But Apple TV is the only device that Netflix will send a 4K 24hz HDR signal to. All other devices are either 4K or HDR but not both.


On my FireTV 4k indeed Netflix only shows UHD _or _HDR. However, the projector Info screen shows 4K when playing HDR shows.
Unlike the ATV, the FireTV does not have a 4K resolution setting, only Auto which goes "up to 4K". It's hard to figure out what it's sending to the projector.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> On my FireTV 4k indeed Netflix only shows UHD _or _HDR. However, the projector Info screen shows 4K when playing HDR shows.
> 
> Unlike the ATV, the FireTV does not have a 4K resolution setting, only Auto which goes "up to 4K". It's hard to figure out what it's sending to the projector.



You can use the system X-ray feature in the developer tools to see what Netflix is sending. I think you press center and down together for 5 seconds to access this. If that doesn't work you can google system X-ray.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kartsound

Thanks @OrcusVaruna for compilation. 
Can some one help me, what should be the setting on Oppo 205 when using 5040UB for display? Both for HDR and SDR?


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> You can use the system X-ray feature in the developer tools to see what Netflix is sending. I think you press center and down together for 5 seconds to access this. If that doesn't work you can google system X-ray.


Thanks for the tip. Based on that, Netflix is sending 4k resolution even when the description only says HDR.


----------



## jnabq

Time to play roulette again. Number 6 shipped out to me new in box with mount and extra bulb. Just over 1000 hrs. My dealer is gonna hate me... Purple horizontal stripes all the way across the top portion of the screen. Sorry my crappy phone camera cant depict 'em better. Checked different sources, still appear.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> Thanks for the tip. Based on that, Netflix is sending 4k resolution even when the description only says HDR.


I assume your projector doesn't have the same chipset limitation as the Epson and therefore you can get HDR at 4K 60hz?


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> I assume your projector doesn't have the same chipset limitation as the Epson and therefore you can get HDR at 4K 60hz?


Yes. My question was simply prompted by Netflix’s description which does not explicitly say UHD.


----------



## Evan201

jwhn said:


> But Apple TV is the only device that Netflix will send a 4K 24hz HDR signal to. All other devices are either 4K or HDR but not both.



I use the Nvidia Shield TV for all streaming with my Epson and in the shield settings I'm using 1080p 60hz at 4:2:2 12 Bit BT2020 

This works flawlessly with Netflix and Amazon HDR sources. Netflix HDR is put out in 60hz so you'll have to be in 1080p on the projector for the bandwidth limitation, but to me with the 4k enhancement on and level 5 detail enhancer, I don't see a difference on a 100" screen between 4k signal and sharpness of the 1080p with detail enhancements up. So for anything other than HDR Blu Rays on disc, I'm fixing the PJ to 1080p and all my streaming sources work perfectly and look great.
4k resolution on this projector is really just 1080p with the pixel's shifted anyway so what I'm doing here with 1080p combined with 4k enhancement on and detail enhancement level 5 should really be doing the same thing as the signal from a 4k Blu Ray disc I would assume.


----------



## old corps

avtoronto said:


> For those interested, I asked Epson about the latest V1.12 firmware and this was the response I got: "The new 1.12 fw version brought a very minor update that changed the default HDR mode from Mode 2 to Mode 1, which is the brightest HDR mode. Aside from that no changes were made the projectors operating system with the new update.".



Thanks for the information, appreciate it. I'll be staying with 1.11.


Ed


----------



## jwhn

Evan201 said:


> I use the Nvidia Shield TV for all streaming with my Epson and in the shield settings I'm using 1080p 60hz at 4:2:2 12 Bit BT2020
> 
> This works flawlessly with Netflix and Amazon HDR sources. Netflix HDR is put out in 60hz so you'll have to be in 1080p on the projector for the bandwidth limitation, but to me with the 4k enhancement on and level 5 detail enhancer, I don't see a difference on a 100" screen between 4k signal and sharpness of the 1080p with detail enhancements up. So for anything other than HDR Blu Rays on disc, I'm fixing the PJ to 1080p and all my streaming sources work perfectly and look great.
> 4k resolution on this projector is really just 1080p with the pixel's shifted anyway so what I'm doing here with 1080p combined with 4k enhancement on and detail enhancement level 5 should really be doing the same thing as the signal from a 4k Blu Ray disc I would assume.


Right, I also have a Shield and run it in a similar way (but I prefer using 24hz vs. 60hz except for live TV) mainly because it is bad at upscaling. After comparing the Shield and ATV for a bit with the 5040UB I slightly prefer the ATV for a few reasons but they are both excellent choices for this projector.


----------



## Azekecse

jwhn said:


> Right, I also have a Shield and run it in a similar way (but I prefer using 24hz vs. 60hz except for live TV) mainly because it is bad at upscaling. After comparing the Shield and ATV for a bit with the 5040UB I slightly prefer the ATV for a few reasons but they are both excellent choices for this projector.


I concur, I prefer the ATV 4K vs the Nvidia Shield, but it's really close. Also, I'm apart of the Apple Ecosystem, so everything appears seamless across my Apple devices, of course this weighs into my overall streaming process assessment. On another note, Apple 4K TV is more likely to address upgrades related to f/w specific issues with streaming, IMHO. Let me also add, that I have the HD Fury Linker in my chain between my Marantz SR7011 and Epson 6040, which maybe an additional factor in the overall equation.

Peace and blessings

Azeke


----------



## Evan201

jwhn said:


> Right, I also have a Shield and run it in a similar way (but I prefer using 24hz vs. 60hz except for live TV) mainly because it is bad at upscaling. After comparing the Shield and ATV for a bit with the 5040UB I slightly prefer the ATV for a few reasons but they are both excellent choices for this projector.


I just can't handle the 24hz signal with 60hz youtube videos and the like. There is just way too much judder in there for my liking. All that judder goes away when I change the pj to 60hz and I don't see any judder in any apps that I use while streaming this way. FX app, Youtube 60hz videos, Youtube TV channels, Netflix streaming, Amazon streaming, etc....... all look great. I just REALLY hate judder. Also the android operating menu of the Nvidia shield is much snappier when 60hz is running over 24hz. Just way too much lag in the 24hz signal for my taste.
The only reason I go back to 24hz to enable the full 4k signal is when I'm using VUDU and have a bunch of 4k HDR movies in there. When the PJ is set to 1080p resolution the HDR movies aren't recognized by the VUDU app since it thinks your display isn't capable of the HDR signal.


----------



## jwhn

Evan201 said:


> I just can't handle the 24hz signal with 60hz youtube videos and the like. There is just way too much judder in there for my liking. All that judder goes away when I change the pj to 60hz and I don't see any judder in any apps that I use while streaming this way. FX app, Youtube 60hz videos, Youtube TV channels, Netflix streaming, Amazon streaming, etc....... all look great. I just REALLY hate judder. Also the android operating menu of the Nvidia shield is much snappier when 60hz is running over 24hz. Just way too much lag in the 24hz signal for my taste.
> The only reason I go back to 24hz to enable the full 4k signal is when I'm using VUDU and have a bunch of 4k HDR movies in there. When the PJ is set to 1080p resolution the HDR movies aren't recognized by the VUDU app since it thinks your display isn't capable of the HDR signal.


Understood. This is another advantage of the ATV in that it automatically changes to the right frame rate that matches the source. No judder and no having to manually change anything. Anyway, I think this may be a bit off topic for this thread at this point...


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> Right, I also have a Shield and run it in a similar way (but I prefer using 24hz vs. 60hz except for live TV) mainly because it is bad at upscaling. After comparing the Shield and ATV for a bit with the 5040UB I slightly prefer the ATV for a few reasons but they are both excellent choices for this projector.


Somewhat off topic: 
Which app do you use to play local media files (e.g., MKV) on the ATV? I tried Kodi but can’t figure out the controls, which are pretty straightforward on Android and PC.


----------



## thelonghop

Lucidthinker said:


> I have an almost identical setup to what you describe. I have a 125" 2.35 aspect ratio, 1.1 gain screen from Silver Ticket
> STR-235125-WAB.
> 
> To answer you questions, there are actual differences between a 2.35 and 2.39 images. It is not much but there is a difference. The great thing about the Epson is that it has motorized zoom and lens memories so that you set the a variety of zoom settings to account for the differences in aspect ratio for movies.
> 
> Memory 1 -- used 2.35 image and set zoom/vertical adjustment to have image fill entire 2.35 screen
> Memory 2 -- used 16:9 or 1.79 image and set zoom/vertical adjustment to have image fill screen from top to bottom with unprojected area on the sides
> Memory 3 -- used 1.85 image and set zoom/vertical adjustment to have image fill screen from top to bottom with unprojected area on the sides. There is less "empty" space on the left and right than memory 2.
> 
> You are on the right track regarding throw distance. There is only a 1" difference between the two different calculators you used (13'6" vs 13' 7"). You generally don't have to worry about the differences as the 5040UB has such a large range in it's zoom. In your case, you plan to mount the projector right on the edge of the range. Also, note that the throw distance is measured from the front of the lens. I have used Projector Central's calculator to mount 3 projectors and I have found their calculations to be very accurate.
> 
> The brightness indicator on the Projector Central site is a little misleading. The "recommended image brightness for rooms with ambient light" is of no concern. It is just saying that you have enough image brightness/lumens to overcome rooms with alot of ambient light. For your screen you have 49fL (foot lamberts) image brightness. The recommended range is from 16 to 22 fL. The Epson is one of the brightest home theater projectors out there. I run my Epson in Eco mode which is dimmer than High/Normal mode and my screen is plenty bright.
> 
> Like you my the top of screen is 15 inches from the top of the ceiling. I have 8 inches of space between the ceiling and the projector. Note: The Epson has a ton of range in the vertical adjustment as well. So, you can have a larger difference between the projector lens and the top of the screen.


Awesome, thanks for the input.


----------



## thelonghop

timmyotule said:


> Is the front wall 8' (96") or 7.5' (90") tall?
> 
> The content in the scope aspect ratios do vary from 2.35:1 to 2.39:1. It's only an inch or two difference in height. I would go with a 2.39 screen and if the content is 2.35 you'll have an extra inch (1/2 inch top and bottom) of image that is projected into the black border of the screen.
> 
> At the front of the range is better in that it gives you a brighter image. The calculators for screen size are basing things from the lens of the projector. I would mount the projector at a few inches back from what the calculator gives you to be sure it will fill the screen (or test it on a stand before mounting it). I like this calculator best: The ProjectorCentral one just uses the brightest mode for how bright the image will be (and you don't want to run in that mode due to color issues). If you follow that link it shows that the various modes will give you for brightness. There is also a manual iris you can use on the projector to dim the image if it is too bright.
> 
> You can't shift the image 5' 4" vertically at that image size and still get a 16:9 image down to your scope screen. The Webprojectorcalculator will give you the correct amount of shift you have. The math for how much you can shift the image is 94% of the 16:9 image height for your screen's height. So for your 120" wide scope screen you get a 50" high 16:9 image, .94 x 50 = 47" plus or minus from the center of the screen. If your screen is 18" off the floor the projector lens can only be 90" off of the floor. The more you use the lens shift vertically the less you can use it horizontally.
> 
> Are you doing an acoustically transparent screen? If not I would consider raising your screen up to about 24" from the floor so you have some more room for placing the center channel. With the screen 24" off of the floor you can have the projector lens a maximum of 96" from the bottom of the floor.


Nice catch, front wall is 96".

I haven't really considered an acoustically transparent screen because I think I'll already be sitting as close as I possiblity want to be. I'll check out that website. Thanks!


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> Somewhat off topic:
> Which app do you use to play local media files (e.g., MKV) on the ATV? I tried Kodi but can’t figure out the controls, which are pretty straightforward on Android and PC.


I use an application called Infuse. Just the free version. Through this app I can access files that I have on a network drive. Let me know if you have issues.


----------



## jwhn

Pop, goes the bulb. Went out after ~3100 hours. For reference...


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> I use an application called Infuse. Just the free version. Through this app I can access files that I have on a network drive. Let me know if you have issues.


I tried that previously, but whenever I tried to play something it prompted me to upgrade.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> I tried that previously, but whenever I tried to play something it prompted me to upgrade.


I think you need the pro version for 4K and HD quality audio. Maybe someone in the ATV forum can recommend a free alternative. Maybe Plex?


----------



## buntcake72

I’ve noticed that the “HDMI Video Range” is greyed out when I go to Signal - Advanced. Anyone else have that issue?


----------



## robc1976

buntcake72 said:


> I’ve noticed that the “HDMI Video Range” is greyed out when I go to Signal - Advanced. Anyone else have that issue?


With "epson super white" off I believe it grays out, or vice versa

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

jwhn said:


> Pop, goes the bulb. Went out after ~3100 hours. For reference...


Sorry to hear that...High or Medium lamp?

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Evan201

So in regards to stripping out HDR while still leaving the wide color gamut, I am using my Nvidia Shield TV with PLEX app and direct ripped blu ray copies of my 1080p blu rays using MakeMKV software. 
The Nvidia shield is set to display BT2020 12 Bit whenever possible. 
Isn't this effectively giving me wide color gamut 12 bit BT2020 on a standard 1080p Blu Ray but keeping the signal SDR for better brightness? Or is this not the full wide color gamut since the original source does not contain the WCG???
Sure looks like 4k HDR Blu Ray color to me. Is this Nvidia Shield just upscaling the Rec 709 to near BT2020? 

image sharing sites


----------



## jwhn

Evan201 said:


> So in regards to stripping out HDR while still leaving the wide color gamut, I am using my Nvidia Shield TV with PLEX app and direct ripped blu ray copies of my 1080p blu rays using MakeMKV software.
> The Nvidia shield is set to display BT2020 12 Bit whenever possible.
> Isn't this effectively giving me wide color gamut 12 bit BT2020 on a standard 1080p Blu Ray but keeping the signal SDR for better brightness? Or is this not the full wide color gamut since the original source does not contain the WCG???
> Sure looks like 4k HDR Blu Ray color to me. Is this Nvidia Shield just upscaling the Rec 709 to near BT2020?


You are correct in that the original source does not contain the WCG. And there really is no "upscaling" of the color gamut to my knowledge. It would be more accurate to set the Shield to Rec709. 

Also, if you are not using digital cinema or cinema you would not get the WCG for content that does have the WCG.

SDR isn't necessarily brighter - it depends on how you calibrate the projector. HDR can be just as bright.


----------



## Evan201

jwhn said:


> You are correct in that the original source does not contain the WCG. And there really is no "upscaling" of the color gamut to my knowledge. It would be more accurate to set the Shield to Rec709.
> 
> Also, if you are not using digital cinema or cinema you would not get the WCG for content that does have the WCG.
> 
> SDR isn't necessarily brighter - it depends on how you calibrate the projector. HDR can be just as bright.


I get what you're saying about brightness and SDR vs. HDR metadata appearing different with light levels. Also am very aware of the differences with Digi Cin and the wide color filter. It's just too dim for my liking on my grey 5d screen. I like bright punchy pop. 

The main thing is that when the shield is fixed at these BT2020 settings, the standard rec709 files look much better. I can fix the signal in the Epson to rec 709 with these settings and see the colors look very flat. The BT2020 flag on the rec 709 MKV files looks awesome to my eyes. I took a few shots with my phone and the colors are definitely deeper and better on SDR 709 files with the shield fixed to BT2020 12 Bit. 
Maybe its not entirely accurate for 709 material, but looks way better to me this way. I basically leave my shield settings on the ones you see in these screen grabs here and everything from netflix hdr, to streaming SDR tv looks amazing. The 1080p 60hz works perfectly on all material while keep the color settings at BT2020 12 Bit 4:2:2


----------



## ht guy

*5040/6040 Settings Summary From AVS*

If you would like your own pdf of the settings summary/compilation, you can get it here.


----------



## longbow

The 5040UB is in the house. Now I just have to wait a couple of weeks while we finish the room. Looking forward to the first 4K evening via the Oppo 205!


----------



## seplant

jwhn said:


> Pop, goes the bulb. Went out after ~3100 hours. For reference...


Oh no! And after all that time calibrating! That's too bad. My impression is that you were running High Power mode quite a bit for HDR content (and while calibrating HDR!), so 3100 hours is pretty good. I'll be curious to hear how much of a difference your replacement lamp makes in terms of luminance and color accuracy with your previously calibrated settings.


----------



## jwhn

seplant said:


> Oh no! And after all that time calibrating! That's too bad. My impression is that you were running High Power mode quite a bit for HDR content (and while calibrating HDR!), so 3100 hours is pretty good. I'll be curious to hear how much of a difference your replacement lamp makes in terms of luminance and color accuracy with your previously calibrated settings.



That's true. The good news is that the learning curve is behind me so I hopefully can get it recalibrated fairly quickly. Need to wait 100 hours or so but the new bulb is clearly brighter.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> That's true. The good news is that the learning curve is behind me so I hopefully can get it recalibrated fairly quickly. Need to wait 100 hours or so but the new bulb is clearly brighter.


When (in terms of hours on the bulb) did you start calibrating HDR? Just wondering if the new bulb is brighter than you’ve ever seen on the previous one.


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> When (in terms of hours on the bulb) did you start calibrating HDR? Just wondering if the new bulb is brighter than you’ve ever seen on the previous one.



I don't remember exactly but probably around 800-1000. Hard to say if brighter than I've ever seen but quite possibly. The meter will tell. Maybe this time I will measure luminance every 500 hours or so. 

I will post readings once I log some hours and calibrate again. Won't take too long as I don't have a separate TV so it gets used by the household quite a bit. ; )




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

longbow said:


> The 5040UB is in the house. Now I just have to wait a couple of weeks while we finish the room. Looking forward to the first 4K evening via the Oppo 205!


Run some 4k HDR Blu Ray content that is displayed in full screen like Life Of Pi HDR Blu Ray or Planet Earth II.


----------



## Evan201

Plex running MKV rip of 1080p blu ray Thor Ragnarok

Nvidia Shield TV Settings
TOP 1080p 60hz BT2020 12 Bit 4:2:2 

BOTTOM 1080p 60hz Rec 709 8 Bit 4:2:0

I'm sticking with the BT2020 fixed on the Nvidia shield. Colors look deeper to me. Love the Nvidia Shield with the Epson.


----------



## jwhn

Evan201 said:


> Plex running MKV rip of 1080p blu ray Thor Ragnarok
> 
> 
> 
> Nvidia Shield TV Settings
> 
> TOP 1080p 60hz BT2020 12 Bit 4:2:2
> 
> 
> 
> BOTTOM 1080p 60hz Rec 709 8 Bit 4:2:0
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sticking with the BT2020 fixed on the Nvidia shield. Colors look deeper to me. Love the Nvidia Shield with the Epson.



When I look at these I see that the top one appears to have more contrast (shadows on the side of his face are darker, for example). That may be what is attracting you to that setting. But this might be because your gamma or other settings could be improved for Rec709. There are other ways to improve contrast than using the "incorrect" color space. ; )

To me colors are a separate matter and I personally try to keep my opinion out of it. The two red colors are completely different. So rather than asking which I like I might ask...if I were standing in the room when they took this shot, what did the red actually look like? Was it more of the maroon shade or the brighter shade? It would bug me to be displaying maroon if it's supposed to be a brighter red. I want my display to produce accurate colors, but that's just me.

Anyway, I assume you posted the pics because you were open to feedback, so just a few thoughts...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

jwhn said:


> When I look at these I see that the top one appears to have more contrast (shadows on the side of his face are darker, for example). That may be what is attracting you to that setting. But this might be because your gamma or other settings could be improved for Rec709. There are other ways to improve contrast than using the "incorrect" color space. ; )
> 
> To me colors are a separate matter and I personally try to keep my opinion out of it. The two red colors are completely different. So rather than asking which I like I might ask...if I were standing in the room when they took this shot, what did the red actually look like? Was it more of the maroon shade or the brighter shade? It would bug me to be displaying maroon if it's supposed to be a brighter red. I want my display to produce accurate colors, but that's just me.
> 
> Anyway, I assume you posted the pics because you were open to feedback, so just a few thoughts...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh yea for sure man. Love the input.


----------



## irokez85

Hello!  

Does any one have older firmware's? 1.10, 1.09 -> i tried to find it but it is impossible there is only the newest on epson site - 1.12.


----------



## Uppsalaing

irokez85 said:


> Hello!
> 
> Does any one have older firmware's? 1.10, 1.09 -> i tried to find it but it is impossible there is only the newest on epson site - 1.12.


You should install the newest... Is there any reason you want the old ones?


----------



## shyyour

Please i need some help/advice. I plan to geta 120" (16:9) screen but my available throw distance is 150". This will put the epson at about 1.97x Zoom (according to projector central). Will this affect the image badly or am i better of getting a smaller screen to reduce the zoom needed.

Thanks in advance


----------



## AnnapolisSony

*Fan noise on EPSON 5040 vs. Fan noise on SONY VPLHW45ES*

A family member of mine is getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these two units at projector.com. He is planning on ceiling mounting the unit in his HT above the seating area. Can anyone here speak on the fan noise comparison for both of these units???? I am recommending that he go with the EPSON mainly because of the lumens (2500 vs. 1800 on the SONY) - well ok, maybe slightly also because I own a 5030). However, if the fan noise was significantly less on the SONY...he may opt to give up the benefit of getting more light out of the EPSON. 

Feedback would be much appreciated!


----------



## Azekecse

shyyour said:


> Please i need some help/advice. I plan to geta 120" (16:9) screen but my available throw distance is 150". This will put the epson at about 1.97x Zoom (according to projector central). Will this affect the image badly or am i better of getting a smaller screen to reduce the zoom needed.
> 
> Thanks in advance


Hello Shyyour,

You should be fine, I have a 120" Elite Lunette 2, approximately 12'8", and it works very well in my controlled light environment...Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Azekecse

AnnapolisSony said:


> A family member of mine is getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these two units at projector.com. He is planning on ceiling mounting the unit in his HT above the seating area. Can anyone here speak on the fan noise comparison for both of these units???? I am recommending that he go with the EPSON mainly because of the lumens (2500 vs. 1800 on the SONY) - well ok, maybe slightly also because I own a 5030). However, if the fan noise was significantly less on the SONY...he may opt to give up the benefit of getting more light out of the EPSON.
> 
> Feedback would be much appreciated!


I own the Epson 6040UB which is ceiling mounted approximately 4ft from my MLP. I run my lamp on medium which you can hear if it's really quiet, but otherwise the noise is negligible. The picture is beautiful with Medium lamp mode, on High lamp mode, the noise bothers me a little more. It would really depend how far his projector is from the MLP and the type of screen being used. I have not tested the Sony, so I can't speak to that. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Valleyboy

AnnapolisSony said:


> A family member of mine is getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these two units at projector.com. He is planning on ceiling mounting the unit in his HT above the seating area. Can anyone here speak on the fan noise comparison for both of these units???? I am recommending that he go with the EPSON mainly because of the lumens (2500 vs. 1800 on the SONY) - well ok, maybe slightly also because I own a 5030). However, if the fan noise was significantly less on the SONY...he may opt to give up the benefit of getting more light out of the EPSON.
> 
> Feedback would be much appreciated!


For what it's worth, I have my 5040 on a credenza right behind the couch. It is literally 3 feet from my head and I never notice the fan noise. Oh, and I run it on medium. Just my two cents.


----------



## robc1976

Azekecse said:


> I own the Epson 6040UB which is ceiling mounted approximately 4ft from my MLP. I run my lamp on medium which you can hear if it's really quiet, but otherwise the noise is negligible. The picture is beautiful with Medium lamp mode, on High lamp mode, the noise bothers me a little more. It would really depend how far his projector is from the MLP and the type of screen being used. I have not tested the Sony, so I can't speak to that. Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Mine is directly above my head but my acoustics I can hear nothing in high lamp. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

jwhn said:


> That's true. The good news is that the learning curve is behind me so I hopefully can get it recalibrated fairly quickly. Need to wait 100 hours or so but the new bulb is clearly brighter.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Its much more to it than I thought, but is interesting to see how much my eyes where off lol! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## exm

Uppsalaing said:


> You should install the newest... Is there any reason you want the old ones?


Does anyone know what 1.12 brings?


----------



## inspector

exm said:


> Does anyone know what 1.12 brings?



...pain...


----------



## robc1976

AnnapolisSony said:


> A family member of mine is getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these two units at projector.com. He is planning on ceiling mounting the unit in his HT above the seating area. Can anyone here speak on the fan noise comparison for both of these units???? I am recommending that he go with the EPSON mainly because of the lumens (2500 vs. 1800 on the SONY) - well ok, maybe slightly also because I own a 5030). However, if the fan noise was significantly less on the SONY...he may opt to give up the benefit of getting more light out of the EPSON.
> 
> Feedback would be much appreciated!


Mine is above my head, acoustics make all the difference. These are not all for the projector lol









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

AnnapolisSony said:


> A family member of mine is getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these two units at projector.com. He is planning on ceiling mounting the unit in his HT above the seating area. Can anyone here speak on the fan noise comparison for both of these units???? I am recommending that he go with the EPSON mainly because of the lumens (2500 vs. 1800 on the SONY) - well ok, maybe slightly also because I own a 5030). However, if the fan noise was significantly less on the SONY...he may opt to give up the benefit of getting more light out of the EPSON.
> 
> Feedback would be much appreciated!


As you have seen/read, the answer is...it depends...as it can vary from negligible to bothers me a little on high. It depends on how far the projector is mounted from the listening positions, room acoustics, fan speed, how sensitive one is to fan noise, etc., etc. Bottom line, most people are not bothered by most projectors. Once one is immersed in a movie, everything else is typically ignored. Generally speaking, those who are ultra sensitive to fan noise will hear fan noise regardless and will take the necessary measures to minimize it with acoustic treatments. IMO, the most important aspect of a cinema experience and projectors is image quality...all else is secondary and can be dealt with.


----------



## mrdh68

inspector said:


> exm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what 1.12 brings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...pain.../forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

What does that mean?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AnnapolisSony said:


> A family member of mine is getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these two units at projector.com. He is planning on ceiling mounting the unit in his HT above the seating area. Can anyone here speak on the fan noise comparison for both of these units???? I am recommending that he go with the EPSON mainly because of the lumens (2500 vs. 1800 on the SONY) - well ok, maybe slightly also because I own a 5030). However, if the fan noise was significantly less on the SONY...he may opt to give up the benefit of getting more light out of the EPSON.
> 
> 
> 
> Feedback would be much appreciated!



Mounted a few feet above my head from my favorite spot to sit. I mostly run it on high lamp with the iris on high speed and noise is negligible and a non factor once audio starts playing. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shyyour

Azekecse said:


> Hello Shyyour,
> 
> You should be fine, I have a 120" Elite Lunette 2, approximately 12'8", and it works very well in my controlled light environment...Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Thanks for this, much appreciated.


----------



## old corps

exm said:


> Does anyone know what 1.12 brings?



According to post #14374 it just changes the default HDR mode from HDR 1 to HDR 2. Not worth updating for me, staying with 1.11.


Ed


----------



## old corps

mrdh68 said:


> What does that mean?



It's referring to the latest firmware, 1.12.


Ed


----------



## avtoronto

old corps said:


> According to post #14374 it just changes the default HDR mode from HDR 1 to HDR 2. Not worth updating for me, staying with 1.11.
> 
> 
> Ed


No, changes the default to HDR1 for HDR.


----------



## gakbw

avtoronto said:


> No, changes the default to HDR1 for HDR.


Hello Guys,

I recently bought EPSON 6040UB, Do I need to hire professional ISF Calibrator? Or EPSON 6040UB comes with ISF calibration? And also what is the latest software update for EPSON 6040UB?


----------



## gene4ht

gakbw said:


> Hello Guys,
> 
> I recently bought EPSON 6040UB, *Do I need to do hire professional ISF Calibrator?* Or EPSON 6040UB comes with ISF calibration? And also what is the latest software update for EPSON 6040UB?


Depends...depends on how particular you are relative to color, contrast, blacks, etc. accuracy. Some people install their PJ's out of the box and never or minimally touch adjustments and others constantly tinker with adjustments and/or purchase professional calibration...depends. Have you ever felt the need to have your TV's professionally calibrated? Did you feel that something was lacking in image quality? Professional calibration typically costs between $300-$500. The only way to truly determine if you need or want your PJ professionally calibrated is to have it done to understand its value to you. 

Calibration opinions can vary...here's one:

https://www.cnet.com/how-to/what-is-hdtv-calibration/

Software updates are available on Epson's support site...currently 1.12

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## old corps

avtoronto said:


> No, changes the default to HDR1 for HDR.



Whoops......my apologies Toronto!Duhhh.................


Ed


----------



## Uppsalaing

gakbw said:


> Hello Guys,
> 
> I recently bought EPSON 6040UB, Do I need to hire professional ISF Calibrator? Or EPSON 6040UB comes with ISF calibration? And also what is the latest software update for EPSON 6040UB?


For SDR movies, it should be very close to calibration straight out of the box if you choose 'Natural' as the setting. I calibrated mine and the changes were noticable to me, but they were subtle. I used a colourmeter that I had anyway.

Everyone's actual experience of the projector 'straight out of the box' will be a little bit different because we all have different screens and rooms.

I have not calibrated mine for HDR yet.

I'm sure that a professional ISF calibration would be better, but there isn't one in my area. I doubt the difference would be very large for SDR, as the projector looked good out of the box anyway and I've already done some work on it.

Disclaimer: I'm new to all of this. This is my first projector.


----------



## Juiced46

jimmy.le.3388 said:


> Hi,
> Does anyone notice any diff while on HDR vs SDR?
> 
> I dont see any difference at all. The only diff is when i turn on dynamic, but then it applies toward SDR and HDR too.
> 
> 
> So while i test with 4k HDR 30hz 12bit, i see no difference at all with 4k SDR content.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes you can notice a difference if you have it calibrated properly. 

Xbox One X

SDR










HDR


----------



## Evan201

New Panasonic UB820 and UB420 will handle HDR10+ conversion right in the player so wouldn't this be a big deal for HDR projector owners? I know the projector itself can't handle dynamic HDR, but this new Panasonic says it will do the tone mapping in the player and send the stable HDR signal to a non dynamic hdr display. Sounds like a winner for HDR10 blu rays on the EPSON to me. 




PRESS RELEASE
http://shop.panasonic.com/about-us-latest-news-press-releases/01082018-CES-BlueRay.html


----------



## Mr.G

Evan201 said:


> New Panasonic UB820 and UB420 will handle HDR10+ conversion right in the player so wouldn't this be a big deal for HDR projector owners? I know the projector itself can't handle dynamic HDR, but this new Panasonic says it will do the tone mapping in the player and send the stable HDR signal to a non dynamic hdr display. Sounds like a winner for HDR10 blu rays on the EPSON to me.


According to Robert Zohn of Value Electronics the UB820 is the only model that will be sold in the US. It releases in July and can be pre-ordered for $500.


----------



## gene4ht

Mr.G said:


> According to Robert Zohn of Value Electronics the UB820 is the only model that will be sold in the US. It releases in July and can be pre-ordered for $500.


Unfortunately, that's likely the case. I think all this was coincidental with and related to Panasonic backing out of the US market several years ago when only the top end UB900 was available and not the subsequent UB700 and UB400. It's too bad as the entire line would likely have been accepted and sold well here. Then again, the other factor may have been that manufacturers have seen the handwriting on the wall relative to physical media players...ala Oppo. Content distribution by way of streaming is gaining huge momentum while DVD/BD sales is in rapid decline. The majority of Millennials and Gen X'ers are content watching and listening to movies on smartphones and tablets...anytime and anyplace.


----------



## Evan201

gene4ht said:


> Unfortunately, that's likely the case. I think all this was coincidental with and related to Panasonic backing out of the US market several years ago when only the top end UB900 was available and not the subsequent UB700 and UB400. It's too bad as the entire line would likely have been accepted and sold well here. Then again, the other factor may have been that manufacturers have seen the handwriting on the wall relative to physical media players...ala Oppo. Content distribution by way of streaming is gaining huge momentum while DVD/BD sales is in rapid decline. The majority of Millennials and Gen X'ers are content watching and listening to movies on smartphones and tablets...anytime and anyplace.


So do we think this new HDR10+ player will be an added benefit for HDR with projectors that don't do dynamic metadata?


----------



## Mr.G

Evan201 said:


> So do we think this new HDR10+ player will be an added benefit for HDR with projectors that don't do dynamic metadata?


The answer is - the jury is still out. Robert Zohn has only run his prototype Panasonic UB820 on his Sony VW5000ES ($60K - True 4K) projector. He mentions having the Epson 5040 (in post #94 ) but has not set it up.

You can join the ongoing discussion here:

http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=305030


----------



## Evan201

Mr.G said:


> The answer is - the jury is still out. Robert Zohn has only run his prototype Panasonic UB820 on his Sony VW5000ES ($60K - True 4K) projector. He mentions having the Epson 5040 (in post #94 ) but has not set it up.
> 
> You can join the ongoing discussion here:
> 
> http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=305030


sounds like it's going to be a good player for fiddlers who like to constantly change the hdr settings to match the nit level mastering of the particular content they're watching. 

I still haven't gotten around to buying any tools to map curves for different nit levels. I have the R. Masciola UHD and SDR downloads for dialing the simple stuff in though.


----------



## Evan201

Robert has been playing with sample of new Panasonic 820. Says theres a great HDR Projector feature for tone mapping. 

img upload


----------



## Uppsalaing

Evan201 said:


> Robert has been playing with sample of new Panasonic 820. Says theres a great HDR Projector feature for tone mapping.
> 
> img upload



I suppose this would apply to the lower models as well.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Evan201 said:


> Robert has been playing with sample of new Panasonic 820. Says theres a great HDR Projector feature for tone mapping.
> 
> 
> 
> img upload




I wonder how the tone mapping on this player would work with the custom gamma settings a lot of us are running. Would we have to switch back to a more neutral gamma?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

OrcusVaruna said:


> I wonder how the tone mapping on this player would work with the custom gamma settings a lot of us are running. Would we have to switch back to a more neutral gamma?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm going to snag one and see if it's a noticeable improvement over the philips bdp7501. I just like the idea of a lot more HDR control if anything. There are a ton more options with this 820 over the UB900.


----------



## gene4ht

Evan201 said:


> I'm going to snag one and see if it's a noticeable improvement over the philips bdp7501. I just like the idea of a lot more HDR control if anything. There are a ton more options with this 820 over the UB900.


I own the 7501, 900, and the 203. Truth be told, I’ve always been partial to Pannys to include the 900 for its HDR brightness slider feature. Oppo has had a deserving reputation for exceptional support but IMO, Panasonic has always lead in terms of leading edge feature sets. I suspect the 820 will maintain this direction. I’ll be following your exploit with the 820 with interest.


----------



## dvanwert

I seem to be having an ongoing problem that I can't seem to resolve. Any source that I have set to 4K resolution will work for roughly an hour and then I will get a no signal message but audio is still present. Change source, then go back to original and picture will come back but then continue to happen after roughly another 30 minutes. 

This only happens on 4K resolution for Roku 4, Apple TV 4k, or Samsung 8500. 

At first thought it was the AVR (Integra DTR60.6) not being able to pass the signal but just changed to a Integra DRX-R1.1 and am still having the issue. I am using all current Amazon basics HDMI cable which claim up to 18gb, hdcp2.2, hdmi 2.0, etc... 

The only other variable is an Atlona HDMI extender which I took out of the loop and still had the issue. 

Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

dvanwert said:


> I seem to be having an ongoing problem that I can't seem to resolve. Any source that I have set to 4K resolution will work for roughly an hour and then I will get a no signal message but audio is still present. Change source, then go back to original and picture will come back but then continue to happen after roughly another 30 minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> This only happens on 4K resolution for Roku 4, Apple TV 4k, or Samsung 8500.
> 
> 
> 
> At first thought it was the AVR (Integra DTR60.6) not being able to pass the signal but just changed to a Integra DRX-R1.1 and am still having the issue. I am using all current Amazon basics HDMI cable which claim up to 18gb, hdcp2.2, hdmi 2.0, etc...
> 
> 
> 
> The only other variable is an Atlona HDMI extender which I took out of the loop and still had the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!




I had multiple issues with handshaking and artifacting using both amazon and monoprice hdmi cables. I bit the bullet and switched out all of my hdmi cables for monster black platinum and the issues resolved. Odd thing is the monoprice and amazon cables work just fine on my 4K hdr tv. The only difference in my setup for the projector is I have an HD Fury Linker in the projector loop. Here is an example of the artifacting I was seeing with the amazon and monoprice cables.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stephen1254

*Wireless Issues?*

I have the 5040ube with the wireless option, however it was installed with a wired HDMI cable. I recently set up the wireless box and I can't get it to work. The picture is choppy, and cutting in and out. I also get big black squares show up on the screen.

The distance between the wireless box and the projector is only 15' or so, and the wireless box is angled so that it points straight at the projector. Anyone experience a similar issue?

My previous projector was a 5010ube and I ran that with the wireless connection the entire time I had it with no issue. Only difference in setup is the 5040 is ceiling mounted, so upside down, where the 5010 was shelf mounted, so right side up.

Even though the source is set as wireless hd, does the HDMI cable plugged into HDMI 1 on the projector need to be unplugged? I can try that, but I'm trying to avoid dragging a ladder through the house.


----------



## gene4ht

OrcusVaruna said:


> *I had multiple issues with handshaking and artifacting using both amazon and monoprice hdmi cables.* I bit the bullet and switched out all of my hdmi cables for monster black platinum and the issues resolved. Odd thing is the monoprice and amazon cables work just fine on my 4K hdr tv. The only difference in my setup for the projector is I have an HD Fury Linker in the projector loop. Here is an example of the artifacting I was seeing with the amazon and monoprice cables.


Can you expand upon which Amazon and Monoprice HDMI cables....specifically? TIA!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

gene4ht said:


> Can you expand upon which Amazon and Monoprice HDMI cables....specifically? TIA!



I tried these 3 and the artifacting was the same with all of them. 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jbnpaul

OrcusVaruna said:


> I tried these 3 and the artifacting was the same with all of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




So do you happen to have another hdmi cable that doesn't create those artifacts?

Sorry I read the original post again, now I get it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tom Roseman

To the owners of the epson 5040 or 6040. With the ghosting issues and such. Would you buy it again. Or buy something newer with all the other options out there. Say why either way thanks. It will help me and other on the fence with this unit.


----------



## --Sclaws

Tom Roseman said:


> To the owners of the epson 5040 or 6040. With the ghosting issues and such. Would you buy it again. Or buy something newer with all the other options out there. Say why either way thanks. It will help me and other on the fence with this unit.


Not considering a replacement with what's currently available. Ghosting is minimal for me with depth set to 2 and Auto Iris OFF (not sure why that would affect anything, but it seems to help). My bigger issue is my eyes having a low tolerance for active 3D (headaches--and that's not Epson's fault), and DLP is out for me because it looks like a Skittles massacre.


----------



## knmlee

Stephen1254 said:


> I have the 5040ube with the wireless option, however it was installed with a wired HDMI cable. I recently set up the wireless box and I can't get it to work. The picture is choppy, and cutting in and out. I also get big black squares show up on the screen.
> 
> The distance between the wireless box and the projector is only 15' or so, and the wireless box is angled so that it points straight at the projector. Anyone experience a similar issue?
> 
> My previous projector was a 5010ube and I ran that with the wireless connection the entire time I had it with no issue. Only difference in setup is the 5040 is ceiling mounted, so upside down, where the 5010 was shelf mounted, so right side up.
> 
> Even though the source is set as wireless hd, does the HDMI cable plugged into HDMI 1 on the projector need to be unplugged? I can try that, but I'm trying to avoid dragging a ladder through the house.


It shouldn't matter that the cable is plugged in as long as you are selecting wireless as the source. My wireless setup is working fine with the projector ceiling mounted, but I do not have a cable like you do. Good luck


----------



## Tom Roseman

Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately local dealers don't have them to demo. What do you mean by skittles massacre


----------



## gene4ht

Tom Roseman said:


> To the owners of the epson 5040 or 6040. With the ghosting issues and such. Would you buy it again. Or buy something newer with all the other options out there. Say why either way thanks. It will help me and other on the fence with this unit.


Early on crosstalk or ghosting appeared to be an issue with this unit to the point where member @inspector became a champion. Please see the thread he started to better understand what the situation actually is today.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...-5040-6040-3d-ghosting-crosstalk-issue-6.html



Tom Roseman said:


> Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately local dealers don't have them to demo. *What do you mean by skittles massacre*


A small minority of people are sensitive to DLP's color wheel Rainbow Effect (RBE) whereby they periodically see multicolored patterns. I think this is what he is referring to.


----------



## inspector

Hey everyone, tomorrow I'm going to ask Courtney @ Epson if there is a work around to let us use NATURAL movie mode instead of using the two modes...DYNAMIC/CINEMA.


----------



## --Sclaws

gene4ht said:


> Early on crosstalk or ghosting appeared to be an issue with this unit to the point where member @inspector became a champion. Please see the thread he started to better understand what the situation actually is today.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...-5040-6040-3d-ghosting-crosstalk-issue-6.html
> 
> 
> 
> A small minority of people are sensitive to DLP's color wheel Rainbow Effect (RBE) whereby they periodically see multicolored patterns. I think this is what he is referring to.


Yeah, that's what I meant. 
https://hometheaterreview.com/rainbow-effect/


----------



## sddp

AnnapolisSony said:


> A family member of mine is getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these two units at projector.com. He is planning on ceiling mounting the unit in his HT above the seating area. Can anyone here speak on the fan noise comparison for both of these units???? I am recommending that he go with the EPSON mainly because of the lumens (2500 vs. 1800 on the SONY) - well ok, maybe slightly also because I own a 5030). However, if the fan noise was significantly less on the SONY...he may opt to give up the benefit of getting more light out of the EPSON.
> 
> Feedback would be much appreciated!


Mine is on the ceiling with a 9" drop down pole and about 3-4' behind me in a 9' ceiling room. Yes I can hear the fan before I play anything. It's subtle but I have acute hearing (meaning I can hear the slightest sound). HOWEVER the way I look at it, if you can hear the Epson, you're not playing loud enough. I am running a 9.3.4 ATMOS set up and NOTHING can be heard when playing BR or 4K at theatrical levels. So it's not an issue. And you can get use to it as it's subtle and only there if you really pay attention or if you're right under it and using the highest light mode.


----------



## gene4ht

--Sclaws said:


> Yeah, that's what I meant.
> https://hometheaterreview.com/rainbow-effect/


I owned a DLP projector years ago. Although I personally and most of my family and friends did not see "rainbows," a small number did.


----------



## gene4ht

sddp said:


> Mine is on the ceiling with a 9" drop down pole and about 3-4' behind me in a 9' ceiling room. Yes I can hear the fan before I play anything. It's subtle but I have acute hearing (meaning I can hear the slightest sound). HOWEVER the way I look at it, if you can hear the Epson, you're not playing loud enough. I am running a 9.3.4 ATMOS set up and NOTHING can be heard when playing BR or 4K at theatrical levels. So it's not an issue. And you can get use to it as it's subtle and only there if you really pay attention or if you're right under it and using the highest light mode.


Bottom line: Unless you're ultra-sensitive or OCD about these things, under normal listening levels, fan noise is a non issue for the majority of owners.


----------



## AnnapolisSony

sddp said:


> Mine is on the ceiling with a 9" drop down pole and about 3-4' behind me in a 9' ceiling room. Yes I can hear the fan before I play anything. It's subtle but I have acute hearing (meaning I can hear the slightest sound). HOWEVER the way I look at it, if you can hear the Epson, you're not playing loud enough. I am running a 9.3.4 ATMOS set up and NOTHING can be heard when playing BR or 4K at theatrical levels. So it's not an issue. And you can get use to it as it's subtle and only there if you really pay attention or if you're right under it and using the highest light mode.


Thanks for the input everyone. Much appreciated!!!


----------



## mrdh68

Hi guys!

I have a Zidoo UHD player connected to the TW9300. Happy so far, but I wonder if anyone did compare the UHD vs FHD SW The Last Jedi. I'm inclined to say the the BD50 has a better image than the UHD in this projector... Maybe it's the projector or the player, but it's the only UHD movie that appears to be less colored with blacks being too bright. Anyone else had the same perception?

Thanks!


----------



## seplant

Tom Roseman said:


> To the owners of the epson 5040 or 6040. With the ghosting issues and such. Would you buy it again. Or buy something newer with all the other options out there. Say why either way thanks. It will help me and other on the fence with this unit.


I was seeing terrible ghosting on my 6040 until I turned off the Auto Iris. It is a night and day difference. Previously the ghosting always seemed to be there to some degree on most titles. Now I never even see a hint of ghosting as long as I keep 3D brightness on low. Brand of 3D glasses doesn't seem to matter. I've been throwing every title I had problems with at this thing and everything looks just perfect. I'll go so far as to say this is the best 3D I've ever seen. I'm super impressed now!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

mrdh68 said:


> Hi guys!
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Zidoo UHD player connected to the TW9300. Happy so far, but I wonder if anyone did compare the UHD vs FHD SW The Last Jedi. I'm inclined to say the the BD50 has a better image than the UHD in this projector... Maybe it's the projector or the player, but it's the only UHD movie that appears to be less colored with blacks being too bright. Anyone else had the same perception?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




You have to calibrate for hdr and once you have a decent hdr gamma curve tlj 4K blu jumps off the screen and outclasses the regular blu. Also, I think the raised black level is directors intent as it is raised but the same for the regular and 4K blu. Also, this raised black level mimics the Dolby Cinema and IMAX presentations I saw theatrically.

Here’s a screen shot of the 4K blu on my setup. Screen shot is a bit over exposed but you get the idea.


----------



## buntcake72

OrcusVaruna said:


> You have to calibrate for hdr and once you have a decent hdr gamma curve tlj 4K blu jumps off the screen and outclasses the regular blu. Also, I think the raised black level is directors intent as it is raised but the same for the regular and 4K blu. Also, this raised black level mimics the Dolby Cinema and IMAX presentations I saw theatrically.
> 
> Here’s a screen shot of the 4K blu on my setup. Screen shot is a bit over exposed but you get the idea.


That looks horrible...oh wait, that's just the movie not the picture.

Rather shave my scrotum with a rusty spork than watch that abomination again.

Luke Skymilker 4 Ever....


----------



## inspector

inspector said:


> Hey everyone, tomorrow I'm going to ask Courtney @ Epson if there is a work around to let us use NATURAL movie mode instead of using the two modes...DYNAMIC/CINEMA.


Talked with Courtney @ Epson this morning and he said that DYNAMIC/CINEMA were the only two color modes that worked with 3D without any problems. So, we can't change anything.


----------



## mrdh68

OrcusVaruna said:


> You have to calibrate for hdr and once you have a decent hdr gamma curve tlj 4K blu jumps off the screen and outclasses the regular blu. Also, I think the raised black level is directors intent as it is raised but the same for the regular and 4K blu. Also, this raised black level mimics the Dolby Cinema and IMAX presentations I saw theatrically.
> 
> Here’s a screen shot of the 4K blu on my setup. Screen shot is a bit over exposed but you get the idea.


Thanks for sharing!


----------



## nwbearcat21

A couple of weird things have come up lately as I've hooked up more components. I run everything through my Denon 4400 then out to the projector. My Apple TV 4K says that my projector doesn't support HDR, is there a setting that I'm missing? Also for whatever reason my 4K Directv Box un checks 1080p as a resolution every time I turn it off and it never shows that 4K is available. I have this same box upstairs on my TV and have never had an issue. Anyone else experience anything like this?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

buntcake72 said:


> That looks horrible...oh wait, that's just the movie not the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> Rather shave my scrotum with a rusty spork than watch that abomination again.
> 
> 
> 
> Luke Skymilker 4 Ever....




Ha  I’ve watched it about 6 times at home and in the theaters hoping it would get better and nope. Space princess and Luke Saltwalker (literally and figuratively lol) make me yearn for the days of midichlorians. At least they felt like Star Wars movies. TLJ makes me think days of our lives goes to space lol. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

seplant said:


> I was seeing terrible ghosting on my 6040 until I turned off the Auto Iris. It is a night and day difference. Previously the ghosting always seemed to be there to some degree on most titles. Now I never even see a hint of ghosting as long as I keep 3D brightness on low. Brand of 3D glasses doesn't seem to matter. I've been throwing every title I had problems with at this thing and everything looks just perfect. I'll go so far as to say this is the best 3D I've ever seen. I'm super impressed now!


Odd I have dynamic iris on and very very infrequent ghosting on 3D Blurays.


----------



## roland6465

Just a tad off topic, but since my FireTV 4K just figured out that my 6040 doesn't do 50 or 60Hz HDR, I need a new streamer for Prime video. Is the Roku Stick+ adequate? Does it have a setting for UHD/24 like the ATV? Could it be a bigger pain than the FireTV? Does it have issues with the HDMI-in of the Oppo 203? 

Thanks, I know I could ask in 4 different forums, but y'all have all this stuff. Thanks again.


----------



## Keith Ferguson

*upscaler settings*

I am running a xbox one s and there is an atv on the way thru a Denon AVRX4300H. Can someone please recommend what device I should use to do the up-scaling? The source? the AVR? or the 5040ub?


----------



## roland6465

Well, my in-laws had a roku stick+ they hated, and I can’t get HDR from Prime, Netflix, or YouTube. It checks my cable and “approves” UHD/HDR/30, but won’t do 24? 

What I want is something that will play Prime in 4K HDR, with DD+. Is that too much to ask?


----------



## Lithium

roland6465 said:


> Well, my in-laws had a roku stick+ they hated, and I can’t get HDR from Prime, Netflix, or YouTube. It checks my cable and “approves” UHD/HDR/30, but won’t do 24?
> 
> What I want is something that will play Prime in 4K HDR, with DD+. Is that too much to ask?


Without a linker to 'downgrade' a 60fps HDR signal to 8-bit you are probably not going to have much luck (and a lot of annoying handshaking) with streaming devices as most apps are not optimized to send the proper 24fps, 12-bit signal the Epson requires.

If you are looking for an all-in-one solution, the best option in my opinion is the Samsung UBD-K8500. It will stream Netflix and Amazon HDR 24fps @ 12-bit. Youtube, not as well. My old post with player settings can be found: here.


----------



## Uppsalaing

roland6465 said:


> Well, my in-laws had a roku stick+ they hated, and I can’t get HDR from Prime, Netflix, or YouTube. It checks my cable and “approves” UHD/HDR/30, but won’t do 24?
> 
> What I want is something that will play Prime in 4K HDR, with DD+. Is that too much to ask?


Wouldn't the AppleTV4K be able to do that easily? I know it can for iTunes movies and for Netflix, but I haven't tried to watch HDR on Amazon Prime as there isn't any of that content in my country (I'm not in the US).


----------



## roland6465

Uppsalaing said:


> Wouldn't the AppleTV4K be able to do that easily? I know it can for iTunes movies and for Netflix, but I haven't tried to watch HDR on Amazon Prime as there isn't any of that content in my country (I'm not in the US).


Yes, it does perfectly. Unfortunately, the Prime app is hit or miss with 5.1+ audio. If I'm getting 4K HDR, I want more than 2.0 audio. What I don't understand is why I can supposedly get HDR at 30Hz, but not 24 with the stick+.


----------



## roland6465

Lithium said:


> Without a linker to 'downgrade' a 60fps HDR signal to 8-bit you are probably not going to have much luck (and a lot of annoying handshaking) with streaming devices as most apps are not optimized to send the proper 24fps, 12-bit signal the Epson requires.
> 
> If you are looking for an all-in-one solution, the best option in my opinion is the Samsung UBD-K8500. It will stream Netflix and Amazon HDR 24fps @ 12-bit. Youtube, not as well. My old post with player settings can be found: here.


Ugh. That's what I was afraid of. All I can hope is that Apple buys Amazon and the ATV app is finally fixed. The wife will absolutely not go for another attempt. And I hate that, because other than no Atmos (which I don't have yet) and the crap that is the Prime app, the ATV is about perfect.


----------



## marco1975

have just noticed there is a new firmware update (V1.12) that came out 20-april. what are included in this update fixes etc.?...iam hoping that they have found a fix for the high speed fan noise at the start up .


----------



## Mr.G

marco1975 said:


> have just noticed there is a new firmware update (V1.12) that came out 20-april. what are included in this update fixes etc.?...iam hoping that they have found a fix for the high speed fan noise at the start up .


The V1.12 firmware was first mentioned in this thread on April 25, 2018. People who have installed this firmware have not noticed any substantial change.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Mr.G said:


> The V1.12 firmware was first mentioned in this thread on April 25, 2018. People who have installed this firmware have not noticed any substantial change.




V12 came preloaded on my most recent warranty replacement and it must be a background stability update or label changes as I’ve noticed nothing different. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Keith Ferguson

*Any help?*



Keith Ferguson said:


> I am running a xbox one s and there is an atv on the way thru a Denon AVRX4300H. Can someone please recommend what device I should use to do the up-scaling? The source? the AVR? or the 5040ub?


What no love? I did hours of research on multiple sites and threads. I have been doing my own testing with inconsistent findings, need to start over with a better variable control and documentation (didn't think it would be this involved).

A few notes of what I am seeing so far:
Xbox one s - I get different results with disc vs. streaming services letting either the projector or the xbox doing the up-scaling. I just noticed last night that there is a lip-sync issue starting to show up when I switch between devices handling the up-scaling.

ATV should be here soon

Haven't tried letting the AVR do any up-scaling yet (controlling variables for now)


----------



## avtoronto

marco1975 said:


> have just noticed there is a new firmware update (V1.12) that came out 20-april. what are included in this update fixes etc.?...iam hoping that they have found a fix for the high speed fan noise at the start up .


See post 14374.


----------



## misterg51

*Lamp or power supply?*

Second post for me, in forums 5040ub lamp went out, only 1K hours on low.

Solid orange for lamp and Epson said to call back if replacement bulb doesn't fix. Took lamp out and reseated per her instructions, then they give me the "call us back if it doesn't fix it" message. Bulb looked a little discolored and didn't use a magnifying glass to look at filament. Any users have the same, only to find out it was a power supply?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Keith Ferguson said:


> What no love? I did hours of research on multiple sites and threads. I have been doing my own testing with inconsistent findings, need to start over with a better variable control and documentation (didn't think it would be this involved).
> 
> 
> 
> A few notes of what I am seeing so far:
> 
> Xbox one s - I get different results with disc vs. streaming services letting either the projector or the xbox doing the up-scaling. I just noticed last night that there is a lip-sync issue starting to show up when I switch between devices handling the up-scaling.
> 
> 
> 
> ATV should be here soon
> 
> 
> 
> Haven't tried letting the AVR do any up-scaling yet (controlling variables for now)




I find the epsons upscale capabilities to be horrendous. It introduces so much noise to the image of whatever content you are playing. I find I get a much better image when I use both the atv and Xbox one x to up resolution to 4K and then range match for applicable content. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

L-O-everloving-L!

6040 #5 threw up a dead pixel today. This was a new-in-box replacement with 84 hours on it. I've got them working on another new unit, hopefully shipping today. I'm waiting on a call back.

20 years ago I would have driven to Indiana by now to raise hell, but at this point in my life and this ongoing issue, I'm just amused.


----------



## Keith Ferguson

OrcusVaruna said:


> I find the epsons upscale capabilities to be horrendous. It introduces so much noise to the image of whatever content you are playing. I find I get a much better image when I use both the atv and Xbox one x to up resolution to 4K and then range match for applicable content.
> 
> 
> So do you leave the pj 4k enhancement off for everything, all sources? If I run a roku 3 (no up-scaling) would I then let the AVR do the work or go to the pj?


----------



## Uppsalaing

roland6465 said:


> L-O-everloving-L!
> 
> 6040 #5 threw up a dead pixel today. This was a new-in-box replacement with 84 hours on it. I've got them working on another new unit, hopefully shipping today. I'm waiting on a call back.
> 
> 20 years ago I would have driven to Indiana by now to raise hell, but at this point in my life and this ongoing issue, I'm just amused.


They should give you the new model Epson whenever it comes out... Just for the sake of all the trouble you've had to go through...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Keith Ferguson said:


> OrcusVaruna said:
> 
> 
> 
> I find the epsons upscale capabilities to be horrendous. It introduces so much noise to the image of whatever content you are playing. I find I get a much better image when I use both the atv and Xbox one x to up resolution to 4K and then range match for applicable content.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you leave the pj 4k enhancement off for everything, all sources? If I run a roku 3 (no up-scaling) would I then let the AVR do the work or go to the pj?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I leave 4K enhancement off with 1080p sources like my ps4 non pro. The eshift capability (when the projector is fed a 4K signal from he source) on the other hand is outstanding even when fed an upscaled 4K signal like YouTube tv. It sharpens the image without the noise of 4K enhancement.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## roland6465

Uppsalaing said:


> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> L-O-everloving-L!
> 
> 6040 #5 threw up a dead pixel today. This was a new-in-box replacement with 84 hours on it. I've got them working on another new unit, hopefully shipping today. I'm waiting on a call back.
> 
> 20 years ago I would have driven to Indiana by now to raise hell, but at this point in my life and this ongoing issue, I'm just amused.
> 
> 
> 
> They should give you the new model Epson whenever it comes out... Just for the sake of all the trouble you've had to go through...
Click to expand...

Yeah, right. When the last one’s power supply died, I talked my way up the chain and was offered 75% of my purchase price as a one time offer. Didn’t have an extra 2 grand for a JVC or Sony, so here I am awaiting #6 on Monday or Tuesday.


----------



## gibsonm21

misterg51 said:


> Second post for me, in forums 5040ub lamp went out, only 1K hours on low.
> 
> Solid orange for lamp and Epson said to call back if replacement bulb doesn't fix. Took lamp out and reseated per her instructions, then they give me the "call us back if it doesn't fix it" message. Bulb looked a little discolored and didn't use a magnifying glass to look at filament. Any users have the same, only to find out it was a power supply?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Yup. Mine had a solid orange lamp light & flashing blue status light. My bulb was fine. Epson sent me the new bulb but I swapped the unit out under my BB protection plan.


----------



## misterg51

gibsonm21 said:


> Yup. Mine had a solid orange lamp light & flashing blue status light. My bulb was fine. Epson sent me the new bulb but I swapped the unit out under my BB protection plan.


So, the new bulb didn't fix it, and it was the power supply? Thanks!


----------



## misterg51

Those with power supply failures, after putting in new bulb, solid orange lamp, and blinking status? The other light on mine does not come on, so I'm wondering.


----------



## BlueTip

*Another dead 5040ub power supply :-(*

The power supply appears to be dead on my replacement 5040ub after only five months with less than 200 hours on the bulb. 

@roland6465 I can't imagine going through five replacements :-O. 

I will be calling Epson on Monday, but as a loyal Epson customer, I feel a bit let down to say the least!


----------



## marco1975

With all the firmware update that has been released since, i just can't beleive it that epson havn't fix the High Noisy fan speed and black screen at the start up issue yet...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

marco1975 said:


> With all the firmware update that has been released since, i just can't beleive it that epson havn't fix the High Noisy fan speed and black screen at the start up issue yet...




I don’t believe that’s a firmware issue it’s a symptom of a power supply that’s about to kick the bucket. Both of my previous power supply failures presented with this issue before dying. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

BlueTip said:


> The power supply appears to be dead on my replacement 5040ub after only five months with less than 200 hours on the bulb.
> 
> 
> 
> @roland6465 I can't imagine going through five replacements :-O.
> 
> 
> 
> I will be calling Epson on Monday, but as a loyal Epson customer, I feel a bit let down to say the least!




I feel like we should all start asking for upgrade discounts when we call in for our replacements. If enough of us ask for it maybe they will give us a reduced entry price when the new model is finally released (50% off maybe? ). It’s worth a shot at least, especially since they finally acknowledged that it’s a known problem during my last warranty replacement call in late March. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## marco1975

OrcusVaruna said:


> I don’t believe that’s a firmware issue it’s a symptom of a power supply that’s about to kick the bucket. Both of my previous power supply failures presented with this issue before dying.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not necessarily, as there are lot of unit exhibit this symptom without any sign of power supply failure, i have had mine for allmost a year now and it had the issue from day one, apart of the issue bing annoying, the projector is working like champ.


----------



## marco1975

OrcusVaruna said:


> I don’t believe that’s a firmware issue it’s a symptom of a power supply that’s about to kick the bucket. Both of my previous power supply failures presented with this issue before dying.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not necessarily, as there are lot of unit exhibit this symptom without any sign of power supply failure, i have had mine for allmost a year now and it had the issue from day one, apart of the issue bing annoying, the projector is working like champ.


----------



## marco1975

OrcusVaruna said:


> I don’t believe that’s a firmware issue it’s a symptom of a power supply that’s about to kick the bucket. Both of my previous power supply failures presented with this issue before dying.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not necessarily, there are lot of unit in this thread exhibit this symptom without any sign of power supply failure, i have had mine for allmost a year now and it exhibit the issue from day one, apart of the issue bing annoying, the projector is working like champ.


----------



## roland6465

It's been random with the ones I've had. #1 did it from day 1-power supply died. #2 didn't do it once in the 2 weeks I had it- dust blob. #4 didn't do it for months, then did for about 5-6 startups- power supply. #5 did it once in 84 hours, and I was afraid I was in for a power failure, but- dead pixel.


----------



## nefrina

OrcusVaruna said:


> especially since they finally acknowledged that it’s a known problem during my last warranty replacement call in late March.


i have zero faith that the issue will ever really be resolved considering i've seen numerous people that own the 5030 that have had the same problem happen to them--and that model came out in 2013! perhaps the problem was occurring less frequently than with the 5040 though. the hardest moment for any electronic device is when you power it on, so it's not surprising to me the problem is occurring on start-up. all epson would have had to do was acknowledge the problem and be vocal about it with the community. people would be far less up in arms if they felt like the company was trying to do the right thing.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

serith said:


> i have zero faith that the issue will ever really be resolved considering i've seen numerous people that own the 5030 that have had the same problem happen to them--and that model came out in 2013! perhaps the problem was occurring less frequently than with the 5040 though. the hardest moment for any electronic device is when you power it on, so it's not surprising to me the problem is occurring on start-up. all epson would have had to do was acknowledge the problem and be vocal about it with the community. people would be far less up in arms if they felt like the company was trying to do the right thing.




Agreed, all they really would have to do is add about $25 to production costs and use a user replaceable power supply similar to what the PS4 uses or just bite the bullet and use something oversized and commercial grade. I’d be very happy with either fix in a future epson ub. Because regardless of the issues I’m still loyal to epson since the picture quality is beautiful for the price and their warranty support is unbeatable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

My friend Robert and I were trying to adjust the grey schedule on my Epson projector with the Dynamic setting. I wanted to save it as a setting for 3D. Unfortunately, we couldn't make any adjustments to the color controls, particularly the red gain, which showed as very low in HCFR. Can anyone offer any suggestions? 


Thanks for your help!


John
https://www.hometheaterforum.com/community/conversations/


----------



## seplant

inspector said:


> My friend Robert and I were trying to adjust the grey schedule on my Epson projector with the Dynamic setting. I wanted to save it as a setting for 3D. Unfortunately, we couldn't make any adjustments to the color controls, particularly the red gain, which showed as very low in HCFR. Can anyone offer any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help!
> 
> 
> John
> https://www.hometheaterforum.com/community/conversations/


John - I had really good luck using the Color Uniformity adjustment to get the grayscale in 3D to track decently. If you need any help on how to use that, just let me know!


----------



## dysmartguy2005

I been in the market for a projector for a couple of months now. I currently have an epson 2045 and I want a projector with better black levels, picture quality, 3D and 4k so this one caught my eye. I will be using a 2.35:1 scope screen and from my research this epson and the epson home cinema 4000 were the only ones in my price range that have motorized lens. I was about the pull the trigger on the home cinema 5040 but I noticed there was a lot of issues with the power supply failing. Ironically on the Best Buy Magnolia stores I went to look at the 5040, the unit was not working because the power supply had failed. That scares me because I don't want a ton of issues when I get mine. I never had major issues with my 2045 other than a bad pixel which epson replaced quickly. How does the epson hc 4000 compare to the 5040 and does it suffer from the same issues as the 5040? I have not seen many reviews on the 4000 so I am curious if they could fit my need at a cheaper price. Any experience compared to the 5040?


----------



## jnabq

Number 7 on its way. My dealer tried to get me another NIB, but couldn't get it done. Refurb on it's way I suspect. I'm NOT amused. Just over 1000 hrs on this last one.


Lines across the top

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-480.html#post56151114


----------



## roland6465

jnabq said:


> Number 7 on its way. My dealer tried to get me another NIB, but couldn't get it done. Refurb on it's way I suspect. I'm NOT amused. Just over 1000 hrs on this last one.
> 
> 
> Lines across the top
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-480.html#post56151114


Damn, dude. I'm sorry, and can definitely commiserate. For my last two replacements, I went around the "Extra Care Replacement" or whatever they call it, and called Epson tech support directly at (562) 276-4394 and explained how many refurbs I've had that were crap, and that since my unit (was) less than a year old, that I wanted a new replacement. It's worked so far... here's hoping we never need to try it again.


----------



## bluer101

Searching Epson power supply issues found this. 

https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/av-1/fL5adYRkWI4

Seems like issues with other models. Person says it’s noise on the AC line that causes the failure.


----------



## Uppsalaing

dysmartguy2005 said:


> I been in the market for a projector for a couple of months now. I currently have an epson 2045 and I want a projector with better black levels, picture quality, 3D and 4k so this one caught my eye. I will be using a 2.35:1 scope screen and from my research this epson and the epson home cinema 4000 were the only ones in my price range that have motorized lens. I was about the pull the trigger on the home cinema 5040 but I noticed there was a lot of issues with the power supply failing. Ironically on the Best Buy Magnolia stores I went to look at the 5040, the unit was not working because the power supply had failed. That scares me because I don't want a ton of issues when I get mine. I never had major issues with my 2045 other than a bad pixel which epson replaced quickly. How does the epson hc 4000 compare to the 5040 and does it suffer from the same issues as the 5040? I have not seen many reviews on the 4000 so I am curious if they could fit my need at a cheaper price. Any experience compared to the 5040?


I ordered an Epson 4000 that died immediately. I returned it to the seller for a full refund as it wouldn't even turn on.


If you are worried, it's probably best to avoid these models, becauae it doesn't seem that you'll be able to get your money back after using the unit for a while. It seems most failures happen after some use.


----------



## roland6465

bluer101 said:


> Searching Epson power supply issues found this.
> 
> https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/av-1/fL5adYRkWI4
> 
> Seems like issues with other models. Person says it’s noise on the AC line that causes the failure.


It's not AC noise. I have a hospital-grade outlet in the ceiling, and a Monster dual-outlet conditioner just for the projector.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

roland6465 said:


> It's not AC noise. I have a hospital-grade outlet in the ceiling, and a Monster dual-outlet conditioner just for the projector.




Agreed mine is plugged into a commercial grade APC surge protector and line conditioner. It’s the same one that is on about 100k worth of networking equipment at my work. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dysmartguy2005

Uppsalaing said:


> I ordered an Epson 4000 that died immediately. I returned it to the seller for a full refund as it wouldn't even turn on.
> 
> 
> If you are worried, it's probably best to avoid these models, becauae it doesn't seem that you'll be able to get your money back after using the unit for a while. It seems most failures happen after some use.


Wow! That's crazy. These epson projectors seem to be the only in my price range that have motorized lens shift unless I am overlooking some. Do you think getting the extended warrenty would be a wise choice?


----------



## bluer101

roland6465 said:


> It's not AC noise. I have a hospital-grade outlet in the ceiling, and a Monster dual-outlet conditioner just for the projector.





OrcusVaruna said:


> Agreed mine is plugged into a commercial grade APC surge protector and line conditioner. It’s the same one that is on about 100k worth of networking equipment at my work.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not that I’m saying its the issue I’m just posting a conversation at an University with lots of power supply issues. 

Before I started my theater construction and had my 5040ub installed in my livingroom I had it plugged into my Belkin Pure Av battery backup. It was fine and when the theater is done it will be hooked up the same way.


----------



## jbnpaul

bluer101 said:


> Searching Epson power supply issues found this.
> 
> 
> 
> https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/av-1/fL5adYRkWI4
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like issues with other models. Person says it’s noise on the AC line that causes the failure.




So this is a projector made for home circuits, so this should be good enough for that. If my TV avr refrigerator and numerous other electronics works I expect my projector also to work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

dysmartguy2005 said:


> I been in the market for a projector for a couple of months now. I currently have an epson 2045 and I want a projector with better black levels, picture quality, 3D and 4k so this one caught my eye. I will be using a 2.35:1 scope screen and from my research this epson and the epson home cinema 4000 were the only ones in my price range that have motorized lens. I was about the pull the trigger on the home cinema 5040 but I noticed there was a lot of issues with the power supply failing. Ironically on the Best Buy Magnolia stores I went to look at the 5040, the unit was not working because the power supply had failed. That scares me because I don't want a ton of issues when I get mine. I never had major issues with my 2045 other than a bad pixel which epson replaced quickly. How does the epson hc 4000 compare to the 5040 and does it suffer from the same issues as the 5040? I have not seen many reviews on the 4000 so I am curious if they could fit my need at a cheaper price. Any experience compared to the 5040?


I bought the Pro Cinema 4040. It has an additional year's warranty over the 4000 and my credit card gives me another year beyond that. By the end of the warranty, I expect I will replace with a true 4K projector. So far, no problems and I am very happy with the picture quality of the 4040.


----------



## gene4ht

bluer101 said:


> Searching Epson power supply issues found this.
> 
> https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/av-1/fL5adYRkWI4
> 
> Seems like issues with other models. Person says it’s noise on the AC line that causes the failure.



I'll just chime in to say that it's not unexpected that highly visible educational and corporate clients ($$$) will get the benefit of acknowledgement and visits from investigative engineering teams while retail consumers are largely ignored from a transparency perspective. But I haven't given up, with no response to my recent inquiries and suggestions, I'll once again be contacting Epson this week.


----------



## Uppsalaing

dysmartguy2005 said:


> Wow! That's crazy. These epson projectors seem to be the only in my price range that have motorized lens shift unless I am overlooking some. Do you think getting the extended warrenty would be a wise choice?


 I ended up getting the Epson 9300W (the European version of the 5040/6040) and it works fine. It's much more expensive, but I'm not in the US so I'm not sure of the electrical/power issues are the same.


I don't know if the warrenty helps as the issue people mention is that Epson will send you a refurbished unit as a replacement for a faulty unit.


These Epson throw and excellent image and have the very convenient lens shift. I don't know what the alternative is apart from going cheaper and buying a lesser, but more reliable projector or going more expensive and getting a JVC or something.


In my city the option was a cheaper Sony or the Epson as JVC don't have a dealer here.


The power supply issue is a real risk, but these projectors really do hit a sweat spot in terms of price/performance. Do you have an existing projector and are able to wait for alternatives?


----------



## JRock3x8

Is the lens shift quoted in the fact sheet accurate? 

Can it really go plus or minus almost 100% and motorized?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BlueTip

BlueTip said:


> The power supply appears to be dead on my replacement 5040ub after only five months with less than 200 hours on the bulb.
> 
> @roland6465 I can't imagine going through five replacements :-O.
> 
> I will be calling Epson on Monday, but as a loyal Epson customer, I feel a bit let down to say the least!


Just FYI, I was on the phone with Epson advanced support yesterday after my 2nd 5040UB in six months suffered a dead power supply (first unit purchased in Nov 2017 - died in Jan 2018, replacement received promptly - died in May 2018). During this conversation, I was assured again by Epson that they are aware of the power supply issues, and that all new replacements currently being sent out have been "corrected". I was also told that back in January (about four months ago), not all replacement units sent out had been corrected - that I can be sure this time I will have a corrected unit (crossing my fingers). If this one fails in the same manner over coming months, I will seek some type of credit or refund for the product. I love the projector - when it works.


----------



## Dominic Chan

JRock3x8 said:


> Is the lens shift quoted in the fact sheet accurate?
> 
> Can it really go plus or minus almost 100% and motorized?


Yes, with two caveats:
- the “shape” of the range is like an ellipse; you only get the maximum vertical lens shift when you’re not using the horizontal lens shift, and vice versa.
- the shift is measured from the screen centre. As an example, if the total screen height is 48”, 100% vertical shift means the projector is 24” above the top edge of the screen.


----------



## JRock3x8

Dominic Chan said:


> Yes, with two caveats:
> - the “shape” of the range is like an ellipse; you only get the maximum vertical lens shift when you’re not using the horizontal lens shift, and vice versa.
> - the shift is measured from the screen centre. As an example, if the total screen height is 48”, 100% vertical shift means the projector is 24” above the top edge of the screen.


I think this PJ might be my magic bullet. 

I LOVE screen size. When I'm watching 16:9 content I am sitting 9.5' from a 150"+ screen. As you might imagine, that doesn't really work for the back row. Fortunately, the only time the back row is used is for movies which are mostly 2.35:1. So I adjust the PJ when we watch widescreen movies to basically force Constant Image Height. I can't do it with lens shift so I tilt the PJ and keystone correct (cringe).

My left to right correction would be minimal - I would only need this PJ to move the image up about 10" to force the CIH.

I have another issue which is the throw but I might just be able to squeeze that in. I need 15.5' to push a 138" wide image. If I'm not mistaken that puts the back of the PJ more or less ON my back wall. Or I might just cut a hole in the back of my theater and hang it form the adjacent room. My ventilation sucks anyways so I might fix that (poorly but no choice) with through-wall vents in the back of the theater.


----------



## Anamorph

*Custom Startup/Splash Screen Logo*

I have the 5040UB. Has anyone been able to save and display a custom logo at startup, or when no signal is being received by the projector? There seems to be such an option in the extended settings menu, but I have no clue how to use it (or the menu option does not work). Thanks.


----------



## roland6465

BlueTip said:


> BlueTip said:
> 
> 
> 
> The power supply appears to be dead on my replacement 5040ub after only five months with less than 200 hours on the bulb.
> 
> @roland6465 I can't imagine going through five replacements 😮.
> 
> I will be calling Epson on Monday, but as a loyal Epson customer, I feel a bit let down to say the least!
> 
> 
> 
> Just FYI, I was on the phone with Epson advanced support yesterday after my 2nd 5040UB in six months suffered a dead power supply (first unit purchased in Nov 2017 - died in Jan 2018, replacement received promptly - died in May 2018). During this conversation, I was assured again by Epson that they are aware of the power supply issues, and that all new replacements currently being sent out have been "corrected". I was also told that back in January (about four months ago), not all replacement units sent out had been corrected - that I can be sure this time I will have a corrected unit (crossing my fingers). If this one fails in the same manner over coming months, I will seek some type of credit or refund for the product. I love the projector - when it works.
Click to expand...

Man, I hope the person you talked to (guy whose name starts with C?) isn’t blowing smoke. When it’s dialed in, there is no better projector for the price out there. My #6 is on the truck for delivery now.


----------



## eleazar

OrcusVaruna said:


> I don’t believe that’s a firmware issue it’s a symptom of a power supply that’s about to kick the bucket. Both of my previous power supply failures presented with this issue before dying.


My 5040UB does this probably 50% of the time. Fans kick on high for about 20+ seconds, no display, then it finally comes up after maybe 30-45 seconds. Are you saying my power supply is likely about to fail? 

I also had an issue when I was playing Mario Kart on the Wii U with my kids. It would just randomly shut off in the middle of gameplay. I've only ever had the issue with the Wii U, so I'm at a loss as to why it would cause that, but 4k blurays would have no issue.


----------



## dholmes54

roland6465 said:


> Man, I hope the person you talked to (guy whose name starts with C?) isn’t blowing smoke. When it’s dialed in, there is no better projector for the price out there. My #6 is on the truck for delivery now.


# 6 that's just not fair its a lot of trouble taking projector down and shipping it,im sorry your having so much bad luck! Mine is still working(knock on wood)shoudnt they just fix your Epson,i don't want one with 2000hrs on it and mine has 500,good luck!


----------



## old corps

BlueTip said:


> Just FYI, I was on the phone with Epson advanced support yesterday after my 2nd 5040UB in six months suffered a dead power supply (first unit purchased in Nov 2017 - died in Jan 2018, replacement received promptly - died in May 2018). During this conversation, I was assured again by Epson that they are aware of the power supply issues, and that all new replacements currently being sent out have been "corrected". I was also told that back in January (about four months ago), not all replacement units sent out had been corrected - that I can be sure this time I will have a corrected unit (crossing my fingers). If this one fails in the same manner over coming months, I will seek some type of credit or refund for the product. I love the projector - when it works.


That certainly sounds good and while I hope it's true, what about folks that have the power supply fail after the warranty expires? Are we to hope ours takes a dump BEFORE 2 years of ownership so that it can be replaced with a "corrected" one before it's too late? Me-thinks there's gonna be many such instances, leaving those owners SOL. Epson needs to extend warranty protection for this problem!
Sure hope your replacement is, in fact CORRECTED.


Ed


----------



## roland6465

Y’all aren’t going to freaking believe this. They sent a refurb. They have now flat out lied to me practically to my face, and that is completely unacceptable. I’m on hold now.


----------



## inspector

JRock3x8 said:


> I think this PJ might be my magic bullet.
> 
> I LOVE screen size. When I'm watching 16:9 content I am sitting 9.5' from a 150"+ screen. As you might imagine, that doesn't really work for the back row. Fortunately, the only time the back row is used is for movies which are mostly 2.35:1. So I adjust the PJ when we watch widescreen movies to basically force Constant Image Height. I can't do it with lens shift so I tilt the PJ and keystone correct (cringe).
> 
> My left to right correction would be minimal - I would only need this PJ to move the image up about 10" to force the CIH.
> 
> I have another issue which is the throw but I might just be able to squeeze that in. I need 15.5' to push a 138" wide image. If I'm not mistaken that puts the back of the PJ more or less ON my back wall. Or I might just cut a hole in the back of my theater and hang it form the adjacent room. My ventilation sucks anyways so I might fix that (poorly but no choice) with through-wall vents in the back of the theater.



Wow, I've never heard of anyone sitting that close to their screen, your nose has got to be touching it! 


I'm sitting 11 1/2 ' back from my 110" and that's because I'm heavily into 3D just for better immersion.


----------



## JRock3x8

I love immersion but I think 3-D looks like a shoebox diorama. 

As long as I don’t have to crane my neck I want the screen to be wider than my field of vision. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nefrina

inspector said:


> Wow, I've never heard of anyone sitting that close to their screen, your nose has got to be touching it!
> 
> 
> I'm sitting 11 1/2 ' back from my 110" and that's because I'm heavily into 3D just for better immersion.


i sit 13' away from 140" 16:9. i absolutely love it. everyone's sweet-spot is a bit different i guess.




roland6465 said:


> Y’all aren’t going to freaking believe this. They sent a refurb. They have now flat out lied to me practically to my face, and that is completely unacceptable. I’m on hold now.


that's ridiculous.


----------



## BlueTip

serith said:


> i sit 13' away from 140" 16:9. i absolutely love it. everyone's sweet-spot is a bit different i guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's ridiculous.


Yep!


----------



## BlueTip

roland6465 said:


> Y’all aren’t going to freaking believe this. They sent a refurb. They have now flat out lied to me practically to my face, and that is completely unacceptable. I’m on hold now.


I feel for ya, Roland :-( Definitely, I'd be pushing hard for a full refund if I were you!

I also received my replacement, and have have the following observations:

1. Screen convergence seems much better than my last one out of the box
2. Fan noise is slightly louder in Medium/ECO than may last two
3. Iris noise is definitely louder than my last two (on high for all three)
4. Grinding/clicking noise when the lens cover closes (and I mean... not subtle!)

https://www.youtube.com/embed/I6XgzCcrQAw

Debating whether or not to return this one, mostly due to grinding/clicking. Anyone else experience this?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JRock3x8 said:


> I think this PJ might be my magic bullet.
> 
> 
> 
> I LOVE screen size. When I'm watching 16:9 content I am sitting 9.5' from a 150"+ screen. As you might imagine, that doesn't really work for the back row. Fortunately, the only time the back row is used is for movies which are mostly 2.35:1. So I adjust the PJ when we watch widescreen movies to basically force Constant Image Height. I can't do it with lens shift so I tilt the PJ and keystone correct (cringe).
> 
> 
> 
> My left to right correction would be minimal - I would only need this PJ to move the image up about 10" to force the CIH.
> 
> 
> 
> I have another issue which is the throw but I might just be able to squeeze that in. I need 15.5' to push a 138" wide image. If I'm not mistaken that puts the back of the PJ more or less ON my back wall. Or I might just cut a hole in the back of my theater and hang it form the adjacent room. My ventilation sucks anyways so I might fix that (poorly but no choice) with through-wall vents in the back of the theater.




The calculator is dead accurate but remember it’s from the front of the projector which is not small. I am projecting a 100” image and my projector is exactly 9’10” from the screen and it fills my 100” screen perfectly. You can see it is definitely a tight fit lol 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NoUse4AName68

Can we get some happy stories in this thread pls. Starting to get cold feet when I finally thought I'd picked out the right projector 

But seriously though, can someone comfort me with my decision. Planning on picking up a 5040UB after I went and saw one side by side with a JVC 590 and didn't see a difference worth the price delta. Will be used for primarily movies and games, with some TV use. Room will be mostly lit control, but we like to have some lights on sometimes.

I really wish there were more showrooms in the Greater Seattle area for me to spend time with different setups. It's weird buying a display device without getting to see much of it in use.


----------



## JRock3x8

OrcusVaruna said:


> The calculator is dead accurate but remember it’s from the front of the projector which is not small. I am projecting a 100” image and my projector is exactly 9’10” from the screen and it fills my 100” screen perfectly. You can see it is definitely a tight fit lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Yah I need to measure. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

Ok, here’s some good news. After speaking with Epson, I’ve been assured that the projector in the refurb box is indeed new. It’s serial number shows a build date of 5//9, and uncirculated. Firmware is 1.12 as well. 

Got it setup, and agree that it took a lot less tweaking of convergence than usual, and the picture looks good with my settings. Still took almost 4 hours of messing all told. I’m sick of looking at it though. After my wife goes to bed, maybe I’ll throw in a BR or UHD. Let’s hope this is the one.


----------



## BlueTip

roland6465 said:


> Ok, here’s some good news. After speaking with Epson, I’ve been assured that the projector in the refurb box is indeed new. It’s serial number shows a build date of 5//9, and uncirculated. Firmware is 1.12 as well.
> 
> Got it setup, and agree that it took a lot less tweaking of convergence than usual, and the picture looks good with my settings. Still took almost 4 hours of messing all told. I’m sick of looking at it though. After my wife goes to bed, maybe I’ll throw in a BR or UHD. Let’s hope this is the one.


Glad it's working out in the end!

Funny you mentioned it (the new projector in refurb box) because I just got off the phone with them as well about my latest issue with grinding lens cover. They wanted to send another refurb, but agreed to send a new one after some complaining on my part. They said it will ship without cords/accessories - just like a refurb, but it will be new. I should have it on Thursday, so I'll provide an update at that time.


----------



## nefrina

roland6465 said:


> Ok, here’s some good news. After speaking with Epson, I’ve been assured that the projector in the refurb box is indeed new. It’s serial number shows a build date of 5//9, and uncirculated. Firmware is 1.12 as well.


but is the problem really fixed is the question. i'd drop the $ on the 5040 this moment if i knew i wasn't going to have the headache that a large majority of you here have gone through. until then i'll just be happy with what i have.


----------



## sinbon

roland6465 said:


> Just a tad off topic, but since my FireTV 4K just figured out that my 6040 doesn't do 50 or 60Hz HDR, I need a new streamer for Prime video. Is the Roku Stick+ adequate? Does it have a setting for UHD/24 like the ATV? Could it be a bigger pain than the FireTV? Does it have issues with the HDMI-in of the Oppo 203?
> 
> Thanks, I know I could ask in 4 different forums, but y'all have all this stuff. Thanks again.


I'm just getting mine set up after deciding to keep it and I am using the FireTV 4k. What is it that you say does not work? I seem to get HDR colorspace when I use the fire, what benefit is 50/60hz? Maybe I don't want to ask and find out what I am missing.


----------



## jbnpaul

NoUse4AName68 said:


> Can we get some happy stories in this thread pls. Starting to get cold feet when I finally thought I'd picked out the right projector
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously though, can someone comfort me with my decision. Planning on picking up a 5040UB after I went and saw one side by side with a JVC 590 and didn't see a difference worth the price delta. Will be used for primarily movies and games, with some TV use. Room will be mostly lit control, but we like to have some lights on sometimes.
> 
> 
> 
> I really wish there were more showrooms in the Greater Seattle area for me to spend time with different setups. It's weird buying a display device without getting to see much of it in use.




Where in Seattle area were you able to watch them side by side?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NoUse4AName68

jbnpaul said:


> Where in Seattle area were you able to watch them side by side?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Best Buy/Magnolia in Bellevue had a 6040 and a 590 set up. Not sure if they were done setting them up or if they were calibrated. They looked pretty much the same to me. Not sure if it's my eyes or the set up or what.


----------



## rajbsn

Hi, I have a 6040UB and how does the warranty on these work? Do they ship the replacement once the problem is confirmed or have to ship the project first for them to verify and wait for the replacement?

Thanks


----------



## old corps

rajbsn said:


> Hi, I have a 6040UB and how does the warranty on these work? Do they ship the replacement once the problem is confirmed or have to ship the project first for them to verify and wait for the replacement?
> 
> Thanks


They send you the replacement first, then you send back your current machine.

Ed


----------



## OrcusVaruna

NoUse4AName68 said:


> Can we get some happy stories in this thread pls. Starting to get cold feet when I finally thought I'd picked out the right projector
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously though, can someone comfort me with my decision. Planning on picking up a 5040UB after I went and saw one side by side with a JVC 590 and didn't see a difference worth the price delta. Will be used for primarily movies and games, with some TV use. Room will be mostly lit control, but we like to have some lights on sometimes.
> 
> 
> 
> I really wish there were more showrooms in the Greater Seattle area for me to spend time with different setups. It's weird buying a display device without getting to see much of it in use.




The problem is what it is and Epson does have fantastic customer support. So if you have an issue it’s replaced literally overnight. For extra peace of mind I purchased the additional year warranty as well, so I get 3 years of warranty coverage. With how I usually upgrade electronics I’d say in 2021 my spending fund will be burning a hole in my pocket for an upgrade to the latest and greatest thing (a 5040 with 5000 lumen laser light source and laser dimming would be the kindling needed to kickstart that fire lol). If this sounds like you then get it because the darned picture the 5040 puts out is gorgeous, especially if you get it calibrated or hit on some settings that work well in your setup. If you don’t want to have to upgrade for the next 10 years then this may not be the projector for you. Hope this helps 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

Hey, has anyone picked up The Matrix UHD? It's a phenomenal release and looks _mostly_ amazing on the 5040ub!

Now on to the _mostly_ part... I'm having a very strange issue that I haven't experienced with any other UHD release. While watching the movie there was one scene that was just wrong and I knew couldn't be right. There is a great big aqua/cyan blob in the middle of a bright white light. I checked the standard blu-ray disc and it was correctly rendered as just white light. So I went on a blu-ray forum and asked around about the UHD to see if anyone else saw this happening, and they didn't.

So that led me to the conclusion that the blob is suppose to be a 'brighter' white. I played around with all the different modes on the player and the projector and it always rendered the blob. So I'm pretty sure either the player is sending the wrong color information or the projector is unable to render the color info it is receiving. Unfortunately, I don't have other equipment to rule anything out. That's where I need your help if you have this disc to check out the scene and report your findings.

For reference my player is the Samsung UBD-K8500. And I attached a screen shot of the blob.

Thanks!


----------



## rajbsn

old corps said:


> rajbsn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, I have a 6040UB and how does the warranty on these work? Do they ship the replacement once the problem is confirmed or have to ship the project first for them to verify and wait for the replacement?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> They send you the replacement first, then you send back your current machine.
> 
> Ed
Click to expand...

Thank You!


----------



## gene4ht

BlueTip said:


> Just FYI, I was on the phone with Epson advanced support yesterday after my 2nd 5040UB in six months suffered a dead power supply (first unit purchased in Nov 2017 - died in Jan 2018, replacement received promptly - died in May 2018). During this conversation, *I was assured again by Epson that they are aware of the power supply issues, and that all new replacements currently being sent out have been "corrected".* I was also told that back in January (about four months ago), not all replacement units sent out had been corrected - that I can be sure this time I will have a corrected unit (crossing my fingers). If this one fails in the same manner over coming months, I will seek some type of credit or refund for the product. I love the projector - when it works.





roland6465 said:


> Man, I hope the person you talked to (guy whose name starts with C?) isn’t blowing smoke. When it’s dialed in, there is no better projector for the price out there. My #6 is on the truck for delivery now.





old corps said:


> That certainly sounds good and while I hope it's true, *what about folks that have the power supply fail after the warranty expires?* Are we to hope ours takes a dump BEFORE 2 years of ownership so that it can be replaced with a "corrected" one before it's too late? Me-thinks there's gonna be many such instances, leaving those owners SOL. *Epson needs to extend warranty protection for this problem*!
> Sure hope your replacement is, in fact CORRECTED.
> 
> 
> Ed





NoUse4AName68 said:


> *Can we get some happy stories in this thread* pls. Starting to get cold feet when I finally thought I'd picked out the right projector
> 
> *But seriously though, can someone comfort me with my decision.* Planning on picking up a 5040UB after I went and saw one side by side with a JVC 590 and didn't see a difference worth the price delta. Will be used for primarily movies and games, with some TV use. Room will be mostly lit control, but we like to have some lights on sometimes.
> 
> I really wish there were more showrooms in the Greater Seattle area for me to spend time with different setups. It's weird buying a display device without getting to see much of it in use.





serith said:


> *but is the problem really fixed is the question.* i'd drop the $ on the 5040 this moment if i knew i wasn't going to have the headache that a large majority of you here have gone through. until then i'll just be happy with what i have.


Those of you that have been following the power supply failure saga both here and in the Poll thread are aware that I have been persistent in communicating (multiple emails, support calls, and survey responses) with Epson to (1) encourage transparency in acknowledging the failure (2) publically state their remedy position (3) participate at some level in this forum (4) establish/identify a common focal resource and phone number to consolidate data for this specific failure (5) establish a progress milestone reporting system on their support site until complete resolution/closure is attained.

Because I had not received a response from either my last email or the survey, I reached out to support once again. I was also able to reach Advanced Support (4th level) and spoke at length resulting in the following with respect to the items above...
(1) Like BlueTip, I was assured the power supply failure is known, the failure source identified, and corrective measures have been taken and that replacement units will have been corrected. 
(2) Other than the current exchange policy, my support rep indicated public statements regarding product failures are not currently within Epson's corporate culture.
(3) My rep seemed to imply that Epson's sales and marketing folks do visit but do not post in this forum.
(4) My rep assured me that all calls and reports including my communications related to this failure are consolidated and reviewed at his level in Long Beach, CA. After his review, the consolidated data is forwarded to sales and marketing leadership and then subsequently forwarded to engineering in Japan for review, evaluation, and subsequent action. 
(5) This was wishful thinking on my part based on my past experience with leading customer service organizations. This was beyond the purview of my contact but agreed to pass the suggestion along. 

A couple of other misc items were also discussed..

(1) Ongoing periodic high fan speed experienced at start/power up...the explanation was it's an momentary aberration or indeterminate out of sequence memory state that self recovers...abnormally normal...and NOT related to the power supply failures. I asked if this condition was being addressed and if we could expect a resolution. The answer was sales and marketing were aware of the issue.

(2) Old Corps and I and surely others are in a similar position...a unit that has not experienced a failure but approaching the two year warranty expiration. My contact provided this comment. As we are aware of this condition, each situation will be evaluated on a case by case basis...the two year point will not necessarily be a brick wall. I requested whether a formal warranty extension or special policy could be considered. I have this as an action item to follow up with him in about 30 days.

That's the summary of our discussion. I would consider the bulk of our conversation as good/positive information but certainly not as completely definitive as we would have liked.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

gene4ht said:


> Those of you that have been following the power supply failure saga both here and in the Poll thread are aware that I have been persistent in communicating (multiple emails, support calls, and survey responses) with Epson to (1) encourage transparency in acknowledging the failure (2) publically state their remedy position (3) participate at some level in this forum (4) establish/identify a common focal resource and phone number to consolidate data for this specific failure (5) establish a progress milestone reporting system on their support site until complete resolution/closure is attained.
> 
> Because I had not received a response from either my last email or the survey, I reached out to support once again. I was also able to reach Advanced Support (4th level) and spoke at length resulting in the following with respect to the items above...
> (1) Like BlueTip, I was assured the power supply failure is known, the failure source identified, and corrective measures have been taken and that replacement units will have been corrected.
> (2) Other than the current exchange policy, my support rep indicated public statements regarding product failures are not currently within Epson's corporate culture.
> (3) My rep seemed to imply that Epson's sales and marketing folks do visit but do not post in this forum.
> (4) My rep assured me that all calls and reports including my communications related to this failure are consolidated and reviewed at his level in Long Beach, CA. After his review, the consolidated data is forwarded to sales and marketing leadership and then subsequently forwarded to engineering in Japan for review, evaluation, and subsequent action.
> (5) This was wishful thinking on my part based on my past experience with leading customer service organizations. This was beyond the purview of my contact but agreed to pass the suggestion along.
> 
> A couple of other misc items were also discussed..
> 
> (1) Ongoing periodic high fan speed experienced at start/power up...the explanation was it's an momentary aberration or indeterminate out of sequence memory state that self recovers...abnormally normal...and NOT related to the power supply failures. I asked if this condition was being addressed and if we could expect a resolution. The answer was sales and marketing were aware of the issue.
> 
> (2) Old Corps and I and surely others are in a similar position...a unit that has not experienced a failure but approaching the two year warranty expiration. My contact provided this comment. As we are aware of this condition, each situation will be evaluated on a case by case basis...the two year point will not necessarily be a brick wall. I requested whether a formal warranty extension or special policy could be considered. I have this as an action item to follow up with him in about 30 days.
> 
> That's the summary of our discussion. I would consider the bulk of our conversation as good/positive information but certainly not as completely definitive as we would have liked.




This echos the information I was told after my last breakdown. I’m glad to see Epson is acknowledging the issue and more consistent with their message. I hope this new one I have been using for the past month is the last exchange I’ll have to do. Also, the tech I spoke with went one step further and told me the issue specifically stemmed from capacitors in the power supply and that they are now using more robust ones in the newer refurbs shipping with 1.12. He did not know if new units had the fix but the California refurbs do. Only time will tell if this is a fix but I will say this one has lasted longer then the other two I had which died around the 3 week mark. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Barana2080

OrcusVaruna said:


> Ha  I’ve watched it about 6 times at home and in the theaters hoping it would get better and nope. Space princess and Luke Saltwalker (literally and figuratively lol) make me yearn for the days of midichlorians. At least they felt like Star Wars movies. TLJ makes me think days of our lives goes to space lol.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Why watch it six times if you “hate” it so much? Looks like you’re in the minority opinion. Or perhaps you never got Star Wars...move along move along . 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Barana2080 said:


> Why watch it six times if you “hate” it so much? Looks like you’re in the minority opinion. Or perhaps you never got Star Wars...move along move along .
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I just don’t even get the reason for your post, arguing for fun? Why not speak instead to why you liked it and thought it was exactly what you wanted in a Star Wars movie? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## epetti

gene4ht said:


> Those of you that have been following the power supply failure saga both here and in the Poll thread are aware that I have been persistent in communicating (multiple emails, support calls, and survey responses) with Epson to (1) encourage transparency in acknowledging the failure (2) publically state their remedy position (3) participate at some level in this forum (4) establish/identify a common focal resource and phone number to consolidate data for this specific failure (5) establish a progress milestone reporting system on their support site until complete resolution/closure is attained.
> 
> Because I had not received a response from either my last email or the survey, I reached out to support once again. I was also able to reach Advanced Support (4th level) and spoke at length resulting in the following with respect to the items above...
> (1) Like BlueTip, I was assured the power supply failure is known, the failure source identified, and corrective measures have been taken and that replacement units will have been corrected.
> (2) Other than the current exchange policy, my support rep indicated public statements regarding product failures are not currently within Epson's corporate culture.
> (3) My rep seemed to imply that Epson's sales and marketing folks do visit but do not post in this forum.
> (4) My rep assured me that all calls and reports including my communications related to this failure are consolidated and reviewed at his level in Long Beach, CA. After his review, the consolidated data is forwarded to sales and marketing leadership and then subsequently forwarded to engineering in Japan for review, evaluation, and subsequent action.
> (5) This was wishful thinking on my part based on my past experience with leading customer service organizations. This was beyond the purview of my contact but agreed to pass the suggestion along.
> 
> A couple of other misc items were also discussed..
> 
> (1) Ongoing periodic high fan speed experienced at start/power up...the explanation was it's an momentary aberration or indeterminate out of sequence memory state that self recovers...abnormally normal...and NOT related to the power supply failures. I asked if this condition was being addressed and if we could expect a resolution. The answer was sales and marketing were aware of the issue.
> 
> (2) Old Corps and I and surely others are in a similar position...a unit that has not experienced a failure but approaching the two year warranty expiration. My contact provided this comment. As we are aware of this condition, each situation will be evaluated on a case by case basis...the two year point will not necessarily be a brick wall. I requested whether a formal warranty extension or special policy could be considered. I have this as an action item to follow up with him in about 30 days.
> 
> That's the summary of our discussion. I would consider the bulk of our conversation as good/positive information but certainly not as completely definitive as we would have liked.




On the whole this is great to hear. One discouraging bit is that sales and marketing is the intermediary between support and engineering. That implies that decisions to resolve some of these issues could be filtered heavily by what's best for the appearance of the brand rather than what's the right solve. Seems like a recipe for bad decisions.


----------



## --Sclaws

NoUse4AName68 said:


> Can we get some happy stories in this thread pls. Starting to get cold feet when I finally thought I'd picked out the right projector
> 
> But seriously though, can someone comfort me with my decision. Planning on picking up a 5040UB after I went and saw one side by side with a JVC 590 and didn't see a difference worth the price delta. Will be used for primarily movies and games, with some TV use. Room will be mostly lit control, but we like to have some lights on sometimes.
> 
> I really wish there were more showrooms in the Greater Seattle area for me to spend time with different setups. It's weird buying a display device without getting to see much of it in use.


FWIW the 5040 is my first projector, bought in Jan '18 and have not had any issues (yet!!). Original lamp has about 1100hrs and its my primary "TV" for everything (casual TV, movies, gaming). Now if it doesn't power up when I get home today I'm never posting anything online ever again.


----------



## cjsparky

--Sclaws said:


> FWIW the 5040 is my first projector, bought in Jan '18 and have not had any issues (yet!!). Original lamp has about 1100hrs and its my primary "TV" for everything (casual TV, movies, gaming). Now if it doesn't power up when I get home today I'm never posting anything online ever again.


I have been problem free so far as well, but I have less hours than you. Anyone have a suggestion as to how long to wait till I can feel OK about dropping $ on a professional calibration?

Thanks!


----------



## BlueTip

OrcusVaruna said:


> This echos the information I was told after my last breakdown. I’m glad to see Epson is acknowledging the issue and more consistent with their message. I hope this new one I have been using for the past month is the last exchange I’ll have to do. Also, the tech I spoke with went one step further and told me the issue specifically stemmed from capacitors in the power supply and that they are now using more robust ones in the newer refurbs shipping with 1.12. He did not know if new units had the fix but the California refurbs do. Only time will tell if this is a fix but I will say this one has lasted longer then the other two I had which died around the 3 week mark.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi, OrcusVaruna,

I did specifically ask Advanced Product Support yesterday if all new units being shipped had the power supply issue(s) addressed. The support specialist indicated a clear "Yes". I'm cautiously hopeful/optimistic.


----------



## roland6465

Well, #5 hasn’t even been dropped off at FedEx yet, and I’m on the phone with Epson about #6 . Two discoloration son bright scenes.


----------



## bluer101

gene4ht said:


> Those of you that have been following the power supply failure saga both here and in the Poll thread are aware that I have been persistent in communicating (multiple emails, support calls, and survey responses) with Epson to (1) encourage transparency in acknowledging the failure (2) publically state their remedy position (3) participate at some level in this forum (4) establish/identify a common focal resource and phone number to consolidate data for this specific failure (5) establish a progress milestone reporting system on their support site until complete resolution/closure is attained.
> 
> Because I had not received a response from either my last email or the survey, I reached out to support once again. I was also able to reach Advanced Support (4th level) and spoke at length resulting in the following with respect to the items above...
> (1) Like BlueTip, I was assured the power supply failure is known, the failure source identified, and corrective measures have been taken and that replacement units will have been corrected.
> (2) Other than the current exchange policy, my support rep indicated public statements regarding product failures are not currently within Epson's corporate culture.
> (3) My rep seemed to imply that Epson's sales and marketing folks do visit but do not post in this forum.
> (4) My rep assured me that all calls and reports including my communications related to this failure are consolidated and reviewed at his level in Long Beach, CA. After his review, the consolidated data is forwarded to sales and marketing leadership and then subsequently forwarded to engineering in Japan for review, evaluation, and subsequent action.
> (5) This was wishful thinking on my part based on my past experience with leading customer service organizations. This was beyond the purview of my contact but agreed to pass the suggestion along.
> 
> A couple of other misc items were also discussed..
> 
> (1) Ongoing periodic high fan speed experienced at start/power up...the explanation was it's an momentary aberration or indeterminate out of sequence memory state that self recovers...abnormally normal...and NOT related to the power supply failures. I asked if this condition was being addressed and if we could expect a resolution. The answer was sales and marketing were aware of the issue.
> 
> (2) Old Corps and I and surely others are in a similar position...a unit that has not experienced a failure but approaching the two year warranty expiration. My contact provided this comment. As we are aware of this condition, each situation will be evaluated on a case by case basis...the two year point will not necessarily be a brick wall. I requested whether a formal warranty extension or special policy could be considered. I have this as an action item to follow up with him in about 30 days.
> 
> That's the summary of our discussion. I would consider the bulk of our conversation as good/positive information but certainly not as completely definitive as we would have liked.


I’m worried about the 2 year as mine is up in January. I have just over 100 hours seeing the past year I have movedand spent lots of time remodeling. I’m still a few more months out on my dedicated theater build. I would hate to have it fail a little after warranty expired with essentially brand new unit.


----------



## neotravy

NoUse4AName68 said:


> Best Buy/Magnolia in Bellevue had a 6040 and a 590 set up. Not sure if they were done setting them up or if they were calibrated. They looked pretty much the same to me. Not sure if it's my eyes or the set up or what.


I went to that same store and looked at it before I bought mine a year or so ago. Mine looks even better in my home.


----------



## S8LV

Thought I'd throw in my 2 cents.

I'm on my 4th 5040ub and hopefully this one will be a keeper.. at least until I jump to native 4k.

Issues with the first 3 were all power supplies dying. The first after 5 months, the second after 2-3 months and the 3rd after 2 days!

After the second one I wanted a refund and after a lot of naggy phone calls and ranting I got through to a helpful guy called Sal (I think that was it) who is with the customer relations dept at corporate. He issued me my 3rd replacement after a lot of back and forth regarding a refund. Epson were only willing to give a pro-rata refund based on how long was left on my warranty. I wasn't ready to take that kind of hit so I gave in and accepted my 3rd projector. Needless to say I was fuming when it died a couple days after receiving it and Sal was pretty shocked too.

We discussed the power supply as it was clear based on internet discussion there was an inherent fault, and after he spoke to an engineer about it while I was holding, confirmed there was a known issue and that they could send me a 'fixed' model. So not technically new, but refurbished, rest and with the hardware fix. 

That was a couple of months ago and no problems so far. Still have a year on my warranty but fingers crossed I won't have to use it. 


On a different note, if anyone can recommend a quality wall mount for the 5040ub I'd appreciate it. 

Thanks


----------



## Sundodger

NoUse4AName68 said:


> Can we get some happy stories in this thread pls. Starting to get cold feet when I finally thought I'd picked out the right projector
> 
> But seriously though, can someone comfort me with my decision. Planning on picking up a 5040UB after I went and saw one side by side with a JVC 590 and didn't see a difference worth the price delta. Will be used for primarily movies and games, with some TV use. Room will be mostly lit control, but we like to have some lights on sometimes.
> 
> I really wish there were more showrooms in the Greater Seattle area for me to spend time with different setups. It's weird buying a display device without getting to see much of it in use.


I'll throw in my positive 2 cents here - I love this projector and, knock on wood, haven't had any issues over the last year or so. I also use it mostly for movies, but for gaming and sports as well. I have a 2.35:1 so I LOVE the memory settings. 3D has been fun, but watching 4k/HDR movies through my Xbox One X it feels so immersive we generally prefer that (using Oledurt settings). After bumping up to the One X new games (i.e. Destiny 2) look even better than before.

My biggest complaint is the inability to get HDR for gaming and streaming. Yes, there are workarounds that I've read about here, but they seem to be expensive or degrade the image somehow.

I live in North Seattle so if you ever have a desire to come see one in action and play around a bit just IM me. I can't help with comparison since I just have the 5040UB (and it's my first PJ).


----------



## OGZimba

man power supply went out on my 5040ub. Check out the replacement they sent me...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Sundodger said:


> I'll throw in my positive 2 cents here - I love this projector and, knock on wood, haven't had any issues over the last year or so. I also use it mostly for movies, but for gaming and sports as well. I have a 2.35:1 so I LOVE the memory settings. 3D has been fun, but watching 4k/HDR movies through my Xbox One X it feels so immersive we generally prefer that (using Oledurt settings). After bumping up to the One X new games (i.e. Destiny 2) look even better than before.
> 
> 
> 
> My biggest complaint is the inability to get HDR for gaming and streaming. Yes, there are workarounds that I've read about here, but they seem to be expensive or degrade the image somehow.
> 
> 
> 
> I live in North Seattle so if you ever have a desire to come see one in action and play around a bit just IM me. I can't help with comparison since I just have the 5040UB (and it's my first PJ).




The HD Fury Linker is what I use and the ability to hdr game is worth its $200 price tag especially if you have an Xbox one x, ps4, or capable gaming pc. The Fury is dead simple to use as well as it auto range and frame matches all content. I’ll see if I can snag some pictures for you later 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LumensLover

OGZimba said:


> man power supply went out on my 5040ub. Check out the replacement they sent me...


That is ridiculous. This is why I returned my 5040 with one week left on the 30 day return period. I'm still willing to roll the dice when Epson comes out with the replacement for the 5040. But the jury is pretty much out on the 5040's design. It is highly flawed and subject to self destruct at any time.


----------



## BlueTip

OGZimba said:


> man power supply went out on my 5040ub. Check out the replacement they sent me...


Hi, OGZimba,

Just out of curiosity, how long did you have your previous unit and how many hours on it?


----------



## roland6465

Well, folks, I'm out.

I found a buyer for #6 at close to what I paid for #1 . He's got a bar that just expanded and wanted a projection system, and didn't even notice the spots until I pointed them out. We agreed that in a bar, it wouldn't matter anyway. Even though we weren't planning on a theater upgrade for several years, I'm pulling the trigger on a Sony 285. I just can't deal with a company that repeatedly fails multiple points of QC.

The 6040 is the best looking projector I've had in the 13 years I've used one. When it works, the picture is great. When you factor features/price, it can't be beat. I know I'm giving up some contrast, but the ability to get HDR/60 and full 4K chips will make up for it to me. 

Best of luck, y'all, and I'll see you in some other forum.


----------



## OGZimba

BlueTip said:


> Hi, OGZimba,
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity, how long did you have your previous unit and how many hours on it?


My original projector had 160 hours on it. 

They sent me the refurbished projector with the defect. It was defective out of the box. So at this point I'm going to be getting a replacement for the replacement.


----------



## jnabq

#7 is up, and true to their word they sent me a refurb. This one seems ok so far, although their quality control is pure utter ****** crap! 1 scratch, and 2 "gouges" in the lens it looks like. I'll prob keep it, as I've gotten worse ones, and am tired of the whole thing at this point. On a good note, my dealer here in ABQ , (Paradise Village) has been great . I would highly recommend them.



I echo roland6465 remarks, when it works, its great value for the image you get. GL Roland with your new pj man.


Thanks gene4ht for your updates on your conversations with tech.


----------



## WynsWrld98

NoUse4AName68 said:


> Best Buy/Magnolia in Bellevue had a 6040 and a 590 set up. Not sure if they were done setting them up or if they were calibrated. They looked pretty much the same to me. Not sure if it's my eyes or the set up or what.


I've been to that store but from my recollection that had a very small screen which is unfortunate.


----------



## WynsWrld98

cjsparky said:


> I have been problem free so far as well, but I have less hours than you. Anyone have a suggestion as to how long to wait till I can feel OK about dropping $ on a professional calibration?
> 
> Thanks!


Even if the power supply goes out you should be able to request your unit be repaired (not losing your calibration settings) vs. playing refurb roulette. That is my plan if mine goes out but luckily I have a backup projector.


----------



## rongopongo

OrcusVaruna said:


> The HD Fury Linker is what I use and the ability to hdr game is worth its $200 price tag especially if you have an Xbox one x, ps4, or capable gaming pc. The Fury is dead simple to use as well as it auto range and frame matches all content. I’ll see if I can snag some pictures for you later
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



So If I bought the HD Fury linker what will i gain? If I connect it to the 5040??? Im interested


----------



## NoUse4AName68

rongopongo said:


> So If I bought the HD Fury linker what will i gain? If I connect it to the 5040??? Im interested


I'm also curious what this does.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

rongopongo said:


> So If I bought the HD Fury linker what will i gain? If I connect it to the 5040??? Im interested




You gain the ability to game in 4K HDR at 60hz with a ps4 pro and Xbox one x. You need the Linker because these consoles will not natively output 4K HDR 60hz signals with a range of 8bits, they will only send 10bit signals. The Linker takes this 10bit signal and converts to 8bits on the fly while only adding about 1ms of input lag. So in essence it takes the biggest problem most people have with the 10gbps chipset in the 5040 and circumvents that limitation for signals that require higher bandwidth.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

OrcusVaruna said:


> You gain the ability to game in 4K HDR at 60hz with a ps4 pro and Xbox one x. You need the Linker because these consoles will not natively output 4K HDR 60hz signals with a range of 8bits, they will only send 10bit signals. The Linker takes this 10bit signal and converts to 8bits on the fly while only adding about 1ms of input lag. So in essence it takes the biggest problem most people have with the 10gbps chipset in the 5040 and circumvents that limitation for signals that require higher bandwidth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


with 8bit HDR I guess you have visible transitions between colors ?

to illustrate what I am talking ab (0:29):






can you confrm ?
thx.


----------



## fritz11

rongopongo said:


> So If I bought the HD Fury linker what will i gain? If I connect it to the 5040??? Im interested



i Have the 9300 with the Hd Fury Vertex!
Works great with the Xbox1X und the Ps4 pro!!
Some screens
Cu Ftc!!


----------



## fritz11

MartyMcFlyy said:


> with 8bit HDR I guess you have visible transitions between colors ?
> 
> to illustrate what I am talking ab (0:29):
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agA9796bs3U
> 
> can you confrm ?
> thx.


 
So i prefer for Games ps4pro and Xbox one X 1080p 60Hz 4:2:2 10bit with Hdr!!
cu
Ftc


----------



## OrcusVaruna

MartyMcFlyy said:


> with 8bit HDR I guess you have visible transitions between colors ?
> 
> 
> 
> to illustrate what I am talking ab (0:29):
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agA9796bs3U
> 
> 
> 
> can you confrm ?
> 
> thx.




I can see no color gradation whatsoever and even if it was present my guess is e-shift would mask it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

fritz11 said:


> So i prefer for Games ps4pro and Xbox one X 1080p 60Hz 4:2:2 10bit with Hdr!!
> cu
> Ftc




Neither console will output a 1080p hdr signal. If it did none of us would use a Linker. It will output 10-12bit sdr signals at 1080p but the hdr metadata is lost when doing this. That is why the Linker is awesome since it allows full 4K hdr signal to be transmitted and the conversion the Linker applies results in virtually no data loss. I tested this on my hdr tv by switching back and forth between my two Xbox one x’s one with the Linker forcing 8bit hdr and one with the native signal being sent without the Linker and the resulting image was the same 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fritz11

OrcusVaruna said:


> Neither console will output a 1080p hdr signal. If it did none of us would use a Linker. It will output 10-12bit sdr signals at 1080p but the hdr metadata is lost when doing this. That is why the Linker is awesome since it allows full 4K hdr signal to be transmitted and the conversion the Linker applies results in virtually no data loss. I tested this on my hdr tv by switching back and forth between my two Xbox one x’s one with the Linker forcing 8bit hdr and one with the native signal being sent without the Linker and the resulting image was the same
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


But you have Colour Bendings when you get with the linker 4k60hz8bithdr to the 6040!

I Think (for me) its a better and colourfull Picture and without colourbending if i get 1080p60hz 10bit Hdr for the gaming on the 6040!!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

fritz11 said:


> But you have Colour Bendings when you get with the linker 4k60hz8bithdr to the 6040!
> 
> 
> 
> I Think (for me) its a better and colourfull Picture and without colourbending if i get 1080p60hz 10bit Hdr for the gaming on the 6040!!



That’s great but there is no discernible banding with 8bit hdr that I have seen... 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BlueTip

BlueTip said:


> Glad it's working out in the end!
> 
> Funny you mentioned it (the new projector in refurb box) because I just got off the phone with them as well about my latest issue with grinding lens cover. They wanted to send another refurb, but agreed to send a new one after some complaining on my part. They said it will ship without cords/accessories - just like a refurb, but it will be new. I should have it on Thursday, so I'll provide an update at that time.


Got the NIB replacement today and so far it looks good...

1. Very little convergence correction needed
2. Quiet lens cover motor and cooling fans
3. No dead pixels
4. Color uniformity looks good (only about 15min testing)

I will put it through a ringer of tests tomorrow.

I'm hoping this one stays good!


----------



## buntcake72

OrcusVaruna said:


> You gain the ability to game in 4K HDR at 60hz with a ps4 pro and Xbox one x. You need the Linker because these consoles will not natively output 4K HDR 60hz signals with a range of 8bits, they will only send 10bit signals. The Linker takes this 10bit signal and converts to 8bits on the fly while only adding about 1ms of input lag. So in essence it takes the biggest problem most people have with the 10gbps chipset in the 5040 and circumvents that limitation for signals that require higher bandwidth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


First The Last Jedi, now Destiny 2. Orcus! Stop the Insanity! HAHAHA!


----------



## nonstopdoc1

Has anyone here got there 5040/6040 calibrated? What kind of brightness one can expect after calibration?


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

roland6465 said:


> Well, folks, I'm out.
> 
> I found a buyer for #6 at close to what I paid for #1 . He's got a bar that just expanded and wanted a projection system, and didn't even notice the spots until I pointed them out. We agreed that in a bar, it wouldn't matter anyway. Even though we weren't planning on a theater upgrade for several years, I'm pulling the trigger on a Sony 285. I just can't deal with a company that repeatedly fails multiple points of QC.
> 
> The 6040 is the best looking projector I've had in the 13 years I've used one. When it works, the picture is great. When you factor features/price, it can't be beat. I know I'm giving up some contrast, but the ability to get HDR/60 and full 4K chips will make up for it to me.
> 
> Best of luck, y'all, and I'll see you in some other forum.


be sure to check if sony 285 you are planning to buy is capable of HDR/60 4k. I think it has limited HDMI chip as well...Only higher end sony models have full HDMI bandwidth.


----------



## Buckeye Dave

nonstopdoc1 said:


> Has anyone here got there 5040/6040 calibrated? What kind of brightness one can expect after calibration?



I had mine professionally calibrated by Accucal AV who I found through this forum. SDR was calibrated using eco and HDR was calibrated using medium lamp. I have a light-controlled environment so the brightness is plenty for me. My guess is your mileage will vary dependent upon your environment.


Frankly, I couldn't be happier!


----------



## roland6465

MartyMcFlyy said:


> be sure to check if sony 285 you are planning to buy is capable of HDR/60 4k. I think it has limited HDMI chip as well...Only higher end sony models have full HDMI bandwidth.


It does have the limited HDMI speed, but can do HDR/60 at 8 bit if necessary.


----------



## Bigotis

The 5040ub projector has been on top of my list until the power supply issue came up. One of the large online retailers told me the issue has been resolved and moving forward units should be good. Has anyone else been told this? My other choice is the Optoma 65 unit but I’d prefer the Epson as I’ve been a long time Epson customer. Thanks.


----------



## nefrina

Bigotis said:


> The 5040ub projector has been on top of my list until the power supply issue came up. One of the large online retailers told me the issue has been resolved and moving forward units should be good. Has anyone else been told this? My other choice is the Optoma 65 unit but I’d prefer the Epson as I’ve been a long time Epson customer. Thanks.


i believe that once the community knows for sure that epson has truly fixed the power-supply issue, epson will see a nice influx of sales--i know i can't be the only one waiting for that day to pull the trigger. there is no other projector on the market that is as sharp, colorful, bright, and has the contrast/features that this unit does for the money. i'm also hoping (as i'm sure are others) that epson will soon offer deeper discounts on this model as they transition to the new (5050?) later this year. perhaps that's just wishful thinking though.


----------



## Khaled El-Naggar

Anyone selling their Epson 5040ub or 6040ub provided it is in perfect condition? 
Very interested to buy if the price is reasonable 
Thanks


----------



## inspector

Buckeye Dave said:


> I had mine professionally calibrated by Accucal AV who I found through this forum. SDR was calibrated using eco and HDR was calibrated using medium lamp. I have a light-controlled environment so the brightness is plenty for me. My guess is your mileage will vary dependent upon your environment.
> 
> 
> Frankly, I couldn't be happier!




Super! Tell us what color mode did he calibrate for UHD, BD and 3D?


----------



## Bamasgot16

So right when I decide to purchase the 5040ub I read all the problems with the power failure on these units. One of the main reasons this projector was at the top of my list was its power zoom and power lens shifting. I am getting ready to purchase my first projector for a dedicated home theater with a 130" 16:9 screen and was curious as to when everyone uses the power lens zoom and shifting features. I have some people tell me that the only time I would really use this feature is with set up but I thought that it could also be used with different aspect ratios. So how often does everyone use their powered lens and under what circumstances do you use them?


----------



## WynsWrld98

Bamasgot16 said:


> So right when I decide to purchase the 5040ub I read all the problems with the power failure on these units. One of the main reasons this projector was at the top of my list was its power zoom and power lens shifting. I am getting ready to purchase my first projector for a dedicated home theater with a 130" 16:9 screen and was curious as to when everyone uses the power lens zoom and shifting features. I have some people tell me that the only time I would really use this feature is with set up but I thought that it could also be used with different aspect ratios. So how often does everyone use their powered lens and under what circumstances do you use them?


It seems about 75% of movies nowadays are 2.35-2.4:1 ratio whereas TV is 16:9 so I have a memory for each of these and switch between them anytime I switch between watching 16:9 and super widescreen. I have a DIY projector screen with black velvet masking I switch between manually when switching between the aspect ratios, works great. So essentially my screen is a 2.4:1 but I put vertical side bars in to make it 16:9. So nice having powered zoom and vertical shift to make it so easy to do! There's no going back.


----------



## Uppsalaing

Bamasgot16 said:


> So right when I decide to purchase the 5040ub I read all the problems with the power failure on these units. One of the main reasons this projector was at the top of my list was its power zoom and power lens shifting. I am getting ready to purchase my first projector for a dedicated home theater with a 130" 16:9 screen and was curious as to when everyone uses the power lens zoom and shifting features. I have some people tell me that the only time I would really use this feature is with set up but I thought that it could also be used with different aspect ratios. So how often does everyone use their powered lens and under what circumstances do you use them?


I use it whenever I watch anything on the projector as I have a scope screen (2.35:1 ratio).

I have the main two lens memory buttons assigned to 2.35 (scope) and 1.85 (flat) ratio movies. I have other settings stored for 16:9 TV content and 2.25:1 and 2:1 ratio content (some other movies) stored in some of the remaining slots. The menu has 10.

I use the 2.35 and 1.85 ratios the most and they're available at a touch of a button.


----------



## mrbeezly

Can anyone share the latest settings they are using and happy with, specifically HDR. My room is light controlled and something in my current settings just seems a little off. Any help is appreciated.


----------



## Uppsalaing

mrbeezly said:


> Can anyone share the latest settings they are using and happy with, specifically HDR. My room is light controlled and something in my current settings just seems a little off. Any help is appreciated.


For HDR, I'm using the default 'Cinema' mode with medium lamp and colour temprature set to 2 & 2 for colour and skintones. Looks very good. I use high lamp/power if i'm using the Apple TV4K and medium lamp/power when using my UHD player as I have used it to do the tone mapping for a brighter image.



For SDR, I calibrated my projector with a colouremetre and some software (HCFR)... I'll calibrate for HDR in a week or two,


----------



## old corps

S8LV said:


> Thought I'd throw in my 2 cents.
> 
> I'm on my 4th 5040ub and hopefully this one will be a keeper.. at least until I jump to native 4k.
> 
> Issues with the first 3 were all power supplies dying. The first after 5 months, the second after 2-3 months and the 3rd after 2 days!
> 
> After the second one I wanted a refund and after a lot of naggy phone calls and ranting I got through to a helpful guy called Sal (I think that was it) who is with the customer relations dept at corporate. He issued me my 3rd replacement after a lot of back and forth regarding a refund. Epson were only willing to give a pro-rata refund based on how long was left on my warranty. I wasn't ready to take that kind of hit so I gave in and accepted my 3rd projector. Needless to say I was fuming when it died a couple days after receiving it and Sal was pretty shocked too.
> 
> 
> 
> We discussed the power supply as it was clear based on internet discussion there was an inherent fault, and after he spoke to an engineer about it while I was holding, confirmed there was a known issue and that they could send me a 'fixed' model. So not technically new, but refurbished, rest and with the hardware fix.
> 
> That was a couple of months ago and no problems so far. Still have a year on my warranty but fingers crossed I won't have to use it.
> 
> 
> On a different note, if anyone can recommend a quality wall mount for the 5040ub I'd appreciate it.
> 
> Thanks


This works perfectly with my 5040 https://smile.amazon.com/OmniMount-...pID=51GO6CFVWwL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Best of luck with your 3rd edition!

Ed


----------



## CinemaPhan

This is the mount I’m using. Awesome, and adjustable!

QualGear QG-PM-FT1-WHT Universal Projector Wall Mount with Fine Tune Adjustments I found it at Amazon. There is a cover that hides the adjustment knobs.


----------



## LumensLover

Bigotis said:


> The 5040ub projector has been on top of my list until the power supply issue came up. One of the large online retailers told me the issue has been resolved and moving forward units should be good. Has anyone else been told this? My other choice is the Optoma 65 unit but I’d prefer the Epson as I’ve been a long time Epson customer. Thanks.


I hope you don't believe that.


----------



## Juiced46

rongopongo said:


> So If I bought the HD Fury linker what will i gain? If I connect it to the 5040??? Im interested





NoUse4AName68 said:


> I'm also curious what this does.


It will enable you to game with Xbox One X, or PS4 Pro using 4K/60hz and HDR but ONLY at 8 bit. The projector cannot handle 4k/60hz HDR 10-12bit. With 8 bit you WILL get banding. Other have said they have not seen it, you will get it for sure. Now its not terrible, or extremely noticeable. Usually you will see it if you look up into a blue sky or something with a large solid color that is taking up much of the screen. 

Without the Linker XboxOne X will take a 1080p and UPSCALE to 4K/60 SDR. With the Linker, the Xbox gets tricked thinking the display can handle a 4K native image w/HDR and you get 4K/60hz HDR 8 bit. 



MartyMcFlyy said:


> with 8bit HDR I guess you have visible transitions between colors ?
> 
> to illustrate what I am talking ab (0:29):
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agA9796bs3U
> 
> can you confrm ?
> thx.





OrcusVaruna said:


> That’s great but there is no discernible banding with 8bit hdr that I have seen...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can confirm, you will get banding with 8 bit. But like I said, its not game breaking, its not terrible, it all depends on the game but it is for sure 100% there.


----------



## Bigotis

LumensLover said:


> I hope you don't believe that.


Unfortunately I don’t believe them.


----------



## djmattyb

Juiced46 said:


> It will enable you to game with Xbox One X, or PS4 Pro using 4K/60hz and HDR but ONLY at 8 bit. The projector cannot handle 4k/60hz HDR 10-12bit. With 8 bit you WILL get banding. Other have said they have not seen it, you will get it for sure. Now its not terrible, or extremely noticeable. Usually you will see it if you look up into a blue sky or something with a large solid color that is taking up much of the screen.
> 
> Without the Linker XboxOne X will take a 1080p and UPSCALE to 4K/60 SDR. With the Linker, the Xbox gets tricked thinking the display can handle a 4K native image w/HDR and you get 4K/60hz HDR 8 bit.


How about watching UltraHD BluRay movie watching? Are there issues with that or is it just gaming? What about watching 4K movies via Plex?


----------



## misterg51

*Power Supply OK on 5040UB*

Fingers crossed, but new lamp restored my 5040UB. Lights were correct. Epson agreed to send me a replacement lamp as mine only had 1500 hours on economy. They never sent it to me and when I called to complain, they said they were back-ordered. Projectors are as well, so maybe new models are coming? I made them send me an email about the lamp, and I ordered 2 from others ( B & H, etc.) All my stuff is hooked up to a big Furman conditioner, brown-outs or spikes may be the cause of blown power supplies. Before the Furman, I lost a few components using Monster and another brand......


----------



## sddp

OrcusVaruna said:


> The HD Fury Linker is what I use and the ability to hdr game is worth its $200 price tag especially if you have an Xbox one x, ps4, or capable gaming pc. The Fury is dead simple to use as well as it auto range and frame matches all content. I’ll see if I can snag some pictures for you later
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





OrcusVaruna said:


> Neither console will output a 1080p hdr signal. If it did none of us would use a Linker. It will output 10-12bit sdr signals at 1080p but the hdr metadata is lost when doing this. That is why the Linker is awesome since it allows full 4K hdr signal to be transmitted and the conversion the Linker applies results in virtually no data loss. I tested this on my hdr tv by switching back and forth between my two Xbox one x’s one with the Linker forcing 8bit hdr and one with the native signal being sent without the Linker and the resulting image was the same
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I've been reading and watching this topic for some time now. I do game a LOt ont en XBOX One X (Mostly Star Wars BF2) on a 150"

The picture is absolutely amazing already whether I use my Darby DVP-5000 in SDR mode or in 4K mode (can't do both for some reason, once the 4K native is selected in the XBOX using the Darby I can't get any pic. so it's either or.. supper bummed).

Anyways, how much of a difference would getting this linker make?
Scale of 1-10?

Dvd is WAY better than VHS. 
Blu Ray is WAY better than DVD
4K seems just a lot better then blu ray (not WAY better)

With that being said, is using the linker WAY better or just a lot better?


----------



## WynsWrld98

misterg51 said:


> Fingers crossed, but new lamp restored my 5040UB. Lights were correct. Epson agreed to send me a replacement lamp as mine only had 1500 hours on economy. They never sent it to me and when I called to complain, they said they were back-ordered. Projectors are as well, so maybe new models are coming? I made them send me an email about the lamp, and I ordered 2 from others ( B & H, etc.) All my stuff is hooked up to a big Furman conditioner, brown-outs or spikes may be the cause of blown power supplies. Before the Furman, I lost a few components using Monster and another brand......


I've read power supply failures from people with all kinds of expensive power conditioners so I believe your statement to be false.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> OrcusVaruna said:
> 
> 
> 
> The HD Fury Linker is what I use and the ability to hdr game is worth its $200 price tag especially if you have an Xbox one x, ps4, or capable gaming pc. The Fury is dead simple to use as well as it auto range and frame matches all content. I’ll see if I can snag some pictures for you later
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OrcusVaruna said:
> 
> 
> 
> Neither console will output a 1080p hdr signal. If it did none of us would use a Linker. It will output 10-12bit sdr signals at 1080p but the hdr metadata is lost when doing this. That is why the Linker is awesome since it allows full 4K hdr signal to be transmitted and the conversion the Linker applies results in virtually no data loss. I tested this on my hdr tv by switching back and forth between my two Xbox one x’s one with the Linker forcing 8bit hdr and one with the native signal being sent without the Linker and the resulting image was the same
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I've been reading and watching this topic for some time now. I do game a LOt ont en XBOX One X (Mostly Star Wars BF2) on a 150"
> 
> The picture is absolutely amazing already whether I use my Darby DVP-5000 in SDR mode or in 4K mode (can't do both for some reason, once the 4K native is selected in the XBOX using the Darby I can't get any pic. so it's either or.. supper bummed).
> 
> Anyways, how much of a difference would getting this linker make?
> Scale of 1-10?
> 
> Dvd is WAY better than VHS.
> Blu Ray is WAY better than DVD
> 4K seems just a lot better then blu ray (not WAY better)
> 
> With that being said, is using the linker WAY better or just a lot better?
Click to expand...

It’s not WAY better but the way I look at it is I invested $3500 between my 5040ube and Xbox one x alone so what’s $200 more on the Linker for me to be able to take full advantage of the system. People that spend into the hobbyist sums of money enjoy the differences a device like the hdr gaming the Linker brings to the 5040. The difference is definitely noticeable colors are fantastic but it’s contrast that truly wins. I know I get ripped for playing Destiny but hdr boosts shadow detail via spectral highlighting to the point that it almost breaks the game at times. But this is in a good way because gone is the “hmm I didn’t see that guy at all” death. It’s not that I didn’t see him before it’s just that the highlighting on the other player is much more lifelike so they don’t blend in just because they’re in the shade. I havnt played much battlefront in hdr but it’s a very dark game as well so I would only assume you would see the benefit. One last note is I still don’t see the banding the other people speak of with 8bit hdr, I even set back up my professionally calibrated vizio p series next to the projector for fun yesterday, fed the same signal via a splitter and the images looked virtually identical to me.


----------



## Juiced46

djmattyb said:


> How about watching UltraHD BluRay movie watching? Are there issues with that or is it just gaming? What about watching 4K movies via Plex?


I will speak for the Xbox One X only so it does not get too confusing. 

UHD Blu Ray on Xbox One X will NOT need a Linker. Blu Rays play on the X @ 4K/24hz HDR 10-12bit. This is an acceptable signal for the Epson so no Linker is needed. The same goes for 4K Amazon Prime content. 

As far as Plex, I am not sure since I do not use it. Netflix 4K on the X will need a Linker because for some reason Netflix outputs at 4K/60hz HDR and the X nor the Epson will convert the signal. Other streaming apps have options to get around this like Apple TV or Roku where you can manually set your signal, but I cannot speak too much on that since all my 4K content I do through the X. However if you search this thread there is TONS of talk and great info on it. 

You basically will only need the Linker if you want to game with Native 4K with HDR. If you can deal with upscaling to 4K with SDR then you will not need a Linker. 



OrcusVaruna said:


> It’s not WAY better but the way I look at it is I invested $3500 between my 5040ube and Xbox one x alone so what’s $200 more on the Linker for me to be able to take full advantage of the system. People that spend into the hobbyist sums of money enjoy the differences a device like the hdr gaming the Linker brings to the 5040. The difference is definitely noticeable colors are fantastic but it’s contrast that truly wins. I know I get ripped for playing Destiny but hdr boosts shadow detail via spectral highlighting to the point that it almost breaks the game at times. But this is in a good way because gone is the “hmm I didn’t see that guy at all” death. It’s not that I didn’t see him before it’s just that the highlighting on the other player is much more lifelike so they don’t blend in just because they’re in the shade. I havnt played much battlefront in hdr but it’s a very dark game as well so I would only assume you would see the benefit. One last note is I still don’t see the banding the other people speak of with 8bit hdr, I even set back up my professionally calibrated vizio p series next to the projector for fun yesterday, fed the same signal via a splitter and the images looked virtually identical to me.


There is absolutely banding. You can see it in many game menus and basically every game I currently play I will have some. Its not horrid, its not all the time, but certain screens and menus its noticeable. Stupid question but do you know what banding is? Putting your image next to the Vizio and having an identical image does not mean anything.

If I have some time tonight I will try to snap some pictures.


----------



## misterg51

WynsWrld98 said:


> I've read power supply failures from people with all kinds of expensive power conditioners so I believe your statement to be false.


Well, that is your prerogative to do so. Expensive is a relative term as well. My Furman is very "expensive" and weighs a ton. My monster not so much. Peace.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Juiced46 said:


> djmattyb said:
> 
> 
> 
> How about watching UltraHD BluRay movie watching? Are there issues with that or is it just gaming? What about watching 4K movies via Plex?
> 
> 
> 
> I will speak for the Xbox One X only so it does not get too confusing.
> 
> UHD Blu Ray on Xbox One X will NOT need a Linker. Blu Rays play on the X @ 4K/24hz HDR 10-12bit. This is an acceptable signal for the Epson so no Linker is needed. The same goes for 4K Amazon Prime content.
> 
> As far as Plex, I am not sure since I do not use it. Netflix 4K on the X will need a Linker because for some reason Netflix outputs at 4K/60hz HDR and the X nor the Epson will convert the signal. Other streaming apps have options to get around this like Apple TV or Roku where you can manually set your signal, but I cannot speak too much on that since all my 4K content I do through the X. However if you search this thread there is TONS of talk and great info on it.
> 
> You basically will only need the Linker if you want to game with Native 4K with HDR. If you can deal with upscaling to 4K with SDR then you will not need a Linker.
> 
> 
> 
> OrcusVaruna said:
> 
> 
> 
> It’s not WAY better but the way I look at it is I invested $3500 between my 5040ube and Xbox one x alone so what’s $200 more on the Linker for me to be able to take full advantage of the system. People that spend into the hobbyist sums of money enjoy the differences a device like the hdr gaming the Linker brings to the 5040. The difference is definitely noticeable colors are fantastic but it’s contrast that truly wins. I know I get ripped for playing Destiny but hdr boosts shadow detail via spectral highlighting to the point that it almost breaks the game at times. But this is in a good way because gone is the “hmm I didn’t see that guy at all” death. It’s not that I didn’t see him before it’s just that the highlighting on the other player is much more lifelike so they don’t blend in just because they’re in the shade. I havnt played much battlefront in hdr but it’s a very dark game as well so I would only assume you would see the benefit. One last note is I still don’t see the banding the other people speak of with 8bit hdr, I even set back up my professionally calibrated vizio p series next to the projector for fun yesterday, fed the same signal via a splitter and the images looked virtually identical to me.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There is absolutely banding. You can see it in many game menus and basically every game I currently play I will have some. Its not horrid, its not all the time, but certain screens and menus its noticeable. Stupid question but do you know what banding is? Putting your image next to the Vizio and having an identical image does not mean anything.
> 
> If I have some time tonight I will try to snap some pictures.
Click to expand...

Yes I know what gradient banding is and I don’t see them. Have literally sought out bright objects to stare right into and do not see the gradient bands what so ever. So I take that to mean 1) it is not present using my unit or 2) it’s so minimal that I am just not eagle eyed enough to see it. The reason I set up the other tv was to rule out banding as inherent to the source rather then the display. I did find a couple of instances when looking but this ended up being inherent to the source as it was on both displays (the vizio getting 10bit and the Linker modulating the 5040 aignal to 8bit). Regardless it’s a non issue and not worth waiting for the 5050 just to get 10bit hdr with video games. But as with everything I share here this is just my experience.


----------



## Juiced46

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes I know what gradient banding is and I don’t see them. Have literally sought out bright objects to stare right into and do not see the gradient bands what so ever. So I take that to mean 1) it is not present using my unit or 2) it’s so minimal that I am just not eagle eyed enough to see it. The reason I set up the other tv was to rule out banding as inherent to the source rather then the display. I did find a couple of instances when looking but this ended up being inherent to the source as it was on both displays (the vizio getting 10bit and the Linker modulating the 5040 aignal to 8bit). Regardless it’s a non issue and not worth waiting for the 5050 just to get 10bit hdr with video games. But as with everything I share here this is just my experience.


....and I agree, it is a non issue. But it is for sure there. What games do you play?

I can tell you I see it in. FM7, Madden, Project Cars 2, PUBG, and COD currently.


----------



## Uppsalaing

djmattyb said:


> How about watching UltraHD BluRay movie watching? Are there issues with that or is it just gaming? What about watching 4K movies via Plex?


UHD discs play flawlessly on the Epson using my Panasonic player (UB-424, Euro model of the UB-400).

The Apple TV4K will play 4K movies on the Epson from iTunes and from Netflix as it has the ability to match the framerate to the content (24p for movies).

I haven't used UHD content on Plex.


----------



## Sundodger

Along the topic of Xbox and Linker... has anyone tried purchasing a 4k/UHD digital media code (perhaps from the Media Codes thread in Classifieds) and playing it through an Xbox app like Vudu or FandangoNow? I know there are limitations by movie as captured here (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ZsJkCX4DIv2oeCKQ7zp2ArkR1qKEXCUuCMBbUtHtmh4/htmlview), but I'd love the option to get a digital UHD movie.


----------



## seplant

Juiced46 said:


> I will speak for the Xbox One X only so it does not get too confusing.
> 
> UHD Blu Ray on Xbox One X will NOT need a Linker. Blu Rays play on the X @ 4K/24hz HDR 10-12bit. This is an acceptable signal for the Epson so no Linker is needed. The same goes for 4K Amazon Prime content.
> 
> As far as Plex, I am not sure since I do not use it. Netflix 4K on the X will need a Linker because for some reason Netflix outputs at 4K/60hz HDR and the X nor the Epson will convert the signal. Other streaming apps have options to get around this like Apple TV or Roku where you can manually set your signal, but I cannot speak too much on that since all my 4K content I do through the X. However if you search this thread there is TONS of talk and great info on it.
> 
> You basically will only need the Linker if you want to game with Native 4K with HDR. If you can deal with upscaling to 4K with SDR then you will not need a Linker.
> 
> 
> 
> There is absolutely banding. You can see it in many game menus and basically every game I currently play I will have some. Its not horrid, its not all the time, but certain screens and menus its noticeable. Stupid question but do you know what banding is? Putting your image next to the Vizio and having an identical image does not mean anything.


Since you mentioned Roku, a Linker is required to get HDR from Netflix and YouTube on a Roku Premiere+ or Ultra. YouTube is nice because it has a bunch of 4K HDR promotional videos from the likes of LG, Sony, and Samsung (the same videos they play in stores on their sets), so they are really good for showing off the HDR capabilities of the 5040/6040. However, the banding on some of these videos is pretty bad. You don't have to look for it at all in some of these videos. It really jumps out. 

One other disadvantage of the Linker is difficult setup and inconsistent performance. I've followed all of HDFury's instructions, but I still can't get mine to sync consistently on power up. I end up having to manually unplug power to the Linker and plug it back in almost every time I start up my system to get it to sync. Plus it takes about 20 seconds every time it is fed a different input signal. HDFury's answer is to trade in for a Vertex, but that's double the price of the Linker. Not sure it's worth it.


----------



## bluer101

Without trying to go back thru the thread could someone point me to a correct cable on amazon for 4K at 25ft please? I have an Oppo 203 on its way to join my Oppo 103D. I have been buying combo packs of movies for awhile now and I’m glad I did. Plus some updated settings to try in a dedicated-fully light controller theater.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

seplant said:


> Since you mentioned Roku, a Linker is required to get HDR from Netflix and YouTube on a Roku Premiere+ or Ultra. YouTube is nice because it has a bunch of 4K HDR promotional videos from the likes of LG, Sony, and Samsung (the same videos they play in stores on their sets), so they are really good for showing off the HDR capabilities of the 5040/6040. However, the banding on some of these videos is pretty bad. You don't have to look for it at all in some of these videos. It really jumps out.
> 
> 
> 
> One other disadvantage of the Linker is difficult setup and inconsistent performance. I've followed all of HDFury's instructions, but I still can't get mine to sync consistently on power up. I end up having to manually unplug power to the Linker and plug it back in almost every time I start up my system to get it to sync. Plus it takes about 20 seconds every time it is fed a different input signal. HDFury's answer is to trade in for a Vertex, but that's double the price of the Linker. Not sure it's worth it.




I had some issues at first as well but I read in one of the Linker threads to try disabling the second input on the Linker. This resolved my issues and the Linker now goes to sleep, wakes, and syncs as it should. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

seplant said:


> Since you mentioned Roku, a Linker is required to get HDR from Netflix and YouTube on a Roku Premiere+ or Ultra. YouTube is nice because it has a bunch of 4K HDR promotional videos from the likes of LG, Sony, and Samsung (the same videos they play in stores on their sets), so they are really good for showing off the HDR capabilities of the 5040/6040. However, the banding on some of these videos is pretty bad. You don't have to look for it at all in some of these videos. It really jumps out.
> 
> One other disadvantage of the Linker is difficult setup and inconsistent performance. I've followed all of HDFury's instructions, but I still can't get mine to sync consistently on power up. I end up having to manually unplug power to the Linker and plug it back in almost every time I start up my system to get it to sync. Plus it takes about 20 seconds every time it is fed a different input signal. HDFury's answer is to trade in for a Vertex, but that's double the price of the Linker. Not sure it's worth it.


I concur Seplant, the Linker has given me Hades, but I use the following work around. I have found that you need to start the Epson first and ensure it's completely on before hand. Therefore, I start up my Directv sequence (via Harmony Remote) wait until all components are on and then I turn on the Xbone X then manually switch over to the Xbone X via my Marantz 7011...It's a good work around for me, YMMV however. I could try to program it directly into my Harmony remote turn on the Epson wait 30 sec, etc., but it works, so if ain't broke don't fix it. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## inspector

bluer101 said:


> Without trying to go back thru the thread could someone point me to a correct cable on amazon for 4K at 25ft please? I have an Oppo 203 on its way to join my Oppo 103D. I have been buying combo packs of movies for awhile now and I’m glad I did. Plus some updated settings to try in a dedicated-fully light controller theater.



This is what I use for my 45' run PJ to player and have not had any problems and installed almost a year ago.


https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12735


----------



## Juiced46

seplant said:


> Since you mentioned Roku, a Linker is required to get HDR from Netflix and YouTube on a Roku Premiere+ or Ultra. YouTube is nice because it has a bunch of 4K HDR promotional videos from the likes of LG, Sony, and Samsung (the same videos they play in stores on their sets), so they are really good for showing off the HDR capabilities of the 5040/6040. However, the banding on some of these videos is pretty bad. You don't have to look for it at all in some of these videos. It really jumps out.
> 
> One other disadvantage of the Linker is difficult setup and inconsistent performance. I've followed all of HDFury's instructions, but I still can't get mine to sync consistently on power up. I end up having to manually unplug power to the Linker and plug it back in almost every time I start up my system to get it to sync. Plus it takes about 20 seconds every time it is fed a different input signal. HDFury's answer is to trade in for a Vertex, but that's double the price of the Linker. Not sure it's worth it.


Anything that is 8 bit HDR is going to have bad banding. Any HDR videos/movies should be viewed at 4K/24 HDR 10-12bit

As far as the inconsistent performance of the Linker. I have none. My sync ups are fast and I never have to unplug it to make it work. The settings needed are well documented in this thread. Also what firmware are you running? Some FW verisons have slow sync ups. I believe FW 21 is what I am using and its fast, earlier FWs had problems. It does not matter what source I boot up first, if the PJ is on first or not. It always syncs correctly. I literally turn my stuff on and go. No specific order, it just works....I havent touched my Linker, aside from a FW update, since the week I got it which was back in November/December.


----------



## Azekecse

Juiced46 said:


> Anything that is 8 bit HDR is going to have bad banding. Any HDR videos/movies should be viewed at 4K/24 HDR 10-12bit
> 
> As far as the inconsistent performance of the Linker. I have none. My sync ups are fast and I never have to unplug it to make it work. The settings needed are well documented in this thread. Also what firmware are you running? Some FW verisons have slow sync ups. I believe FW 21 is what I am using and its fast, earlier FWs had problems. It does not matter what source I boot up first, if the PJ is on first or not. It always syncs correctly. I literally turn my stuff on and go. No specific order, it just works....I havent touched my Linker, aside from a FW update, since the week I got it which was back in November/December.


Juiced, I'm running f/w 25, and I don't remember having these issues until upgraded my f/w to 25...I was running f/w 20 at the time. Maybe when I get the energy, I'll revert back to f/w 20 or 21.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## seplant

Juiced46 said:


> Anything that is 8 bit HDR is going to have bad banding. Any HDR videos/movies should be viewed at 4K/24 HDR 10-12bit
> 
> As far as the inconsistent performance of the Linker. I have none. My sync ups are fast and I never have to unplug it to make it work. The settings needed are well documented in this thread. Also what firmware are you running? Some FW verisons have slow sync ups. I believe FW 21 is what I am using and its fast, earlier FWs had problems. It does not matter what source I boot up first, if the PJ is on first or not. It always syncs correctly. I literally turn my stuff on and go. No specific order, it just works....I havent touched my Linker, aside from a FW update, since the week I got it which was back in November/December.


I tried FW 0.23 and 0.25, which are the current versions recommended by HDFury. I also tried several (not sure if I found all) of the settings documented in this thread. Maybe I just have a bum Linker. Would you mind taking a screenshot of your GUI and posting next time you have a chance?


----------



## Juiced46

Azekecse said:


> Juiced, I'm running f/w 25, and I don't remember having these issues until upgraded my f/w to 25...I was running f/w 20 at the time. Maybe when I get the energy, I'll revert back to f/w 20 or 21.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Give it a shot and revert back, it wont hurt. If you still have sync problems, I would start looking at the HDMI settings in your AVR to see if something is off. 



seplant said:


> I tried FW 0.23 and 0.25, which are the current versions recommended by HDFury. I also tried several (not sure if I found all) of the settings documented in this thread. Maybe I just have a bum Linker. Would you mind taking a screenshot of your GUI and posting next time you have a chance?


I will get a screenshot when I can. But I did nothing special. I ran the settings shown in this thread (there are a bunch of screenshots), installed the FW and all worked great. The first FW I ran .19, I had very bad sync issues. Took forever. After changing the FW it fixed my issues. Like above, check to make sure its not an HDMI setting in your AVR that may be causing it. I doubt its a bum Linker, its most likely a simple setting that has been overlooked.


----------



## Reefdvr27

bluer101 said:


> Without trying to go back thru the thread could someone point me to a correct cable on amazon for 4K at 25ft please? I have an Oppo 203 on its way to join my Oppo 103D. I have been buying combo packs of movies for awhile now and I’m glad I did. Plus some updated settings to try in a dedicated-fully light controller theater.


This is the cable I bought for my 5040UB paired to my 203. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21567


----------



## Reefdvr27

inspector said:


> This is what I use for my 45' run PJ to player and have not had any problems and installed almost a year ago.
> 
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12735


Does that cable have a chip in it? I believe that was the same one I had and it failed. I was warned that it might fail and it did. I did have it in a conduit so I was able to change it, but man what a PITA changing that cable out!!


----------



## old corps

inspector said:


> This is what I use for my 45' run PJ to player and have not had any problems and installed almost a year ago.
> 
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12735


I'm using the same cable in 50' with no problem and it's at least 3 years old. I thought I'd probably need a fiber optic cable but fortunately not the case.....so far anyway.

Ed


----------



## avtvhdbass

OGZimba said:


> man power supply went out on my 5040ub. Check out the replacement they sent me...


Count me in. I did a get a 6040UB second replacement unit with the same issue as yours! this also failed with less than 180 hrs. Right now running on third RMA unit now every time I switch I offer a small prayer that it doesn't fail on me  


Hope you get a good replacement projector from Epson. It's frustrating to setup everything again so I'm running with default settings for now.


Hope you get a good replacement projector.


----------



## Azekecse

Juiced46 said:


> Give it a shot and revert back, it wont hurt. If you still have sync problems, I would start looking at the HDMI settings in your AVR to see if something is off.


Juiced you called it on the head, I had the HDMI I/P scaler on my Marantz enabled...Things are working better now, I must have inadvertently changed the setting when I was in the AV Menu. Thank you kind sir.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## jnabq

#8 is up. (6040) My dealer talked me into giving it another try. NIB it seems, and no immediate issues noticed. Supposedly my dealer talked to the epson "technical director", who told him this one would be all new components and inspected. I'm not sure if "all new" means just "new in the box" as before, or if these have newer replacement components, alleviating past power supply issues. We'll see.


----------



## LumensLover

jnabq said:


> #8 is up. (6040) My dealer talked me into giving it another try. NIB it seems, and no immediate issues noticed. Supposedly my dealer talked to the epson "technical director", who told him this one would be all new components and inspected. I'm not sure if "all new" means just "new in the box" as before, or if these have newer replacement components, alleviating past power supply issues. We'll see.


The dealer is full of bologna. Epson is not pulling 5040s out of the box, gutting them with new components and then reinserting them into distribution. It's going to come down to your individual unit. Hopefully you get a good one.


----------



## Juiced46

Azekecse said:


> Juiced you called it on the head, I had the HDMI I/P scaler on my Marantz enabled...Things are working better now, I must have inadvertently changed the setting when I was in the AV Menu. Thank you kind sir.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Great news. Using any sort of scaling/video conversion within the AVR will cause issues for sure. Also turning HDMI ARC on in the AVR may have some side effects as well. Glad to hear it is working better for you. I was also wrong on my FW version. I was looking through my files, I have a bunch of different Linker FWs saved on my computer. I havent had time to connect to my Linker. But I may actually be using FW 25 GUI 21. The 21 was the GUI version which I got mixed up with .


----------



## WynsWrld98

Hoping a 5050/6050 announced at CEDIA 9/2018 with 18 GB HDMI chipset so no need for Linker/etc.


----------



## jnabq

LumensLover said:


> The dealer is full of bologna. Epson is not pulling 5040s out of the box, gutting them with new components and then reinserting them into distribution. It's going to come down to your individual unit. Hopefully you get a good one.




Naw, my dealer has been great. Shipped/installed all 7 of my returns, taking pictures and workin through epson support to try and keep me a happy customer, which they have! They just relayed to me what they were told by epson, not trying to convince me of the unit havin brand new sourced components. I suspect as you surmise, that the units are just new, not new sourced.


----------



## LumensLover

jnabq said:


> Naw, my dealer has been great. Shipped/installed all 7 of my returns, taking pictures and workin through epson support to try and keep me a happy customer, which they have! They just relayed to me what they were told by epson, not trying to convince me of the unit havin brand new sourced components. I suspect as you surmise, that the units are just new, not new sourced.


I commend you for your patience. I would not be a happy customer after 7 warranty replacements. If the problem is not fixed by the time your warranty expires, you will be left with a non-working unit which is not fair to you as the customer. I hope that does not become the case.


----------



## dholmes54

jnabq said:


> Naw, my dealer has been great. Shipped/installed all 7 of my returns, taking pictures and workin through epson support to try and keep me a happy customer, which they have! They just relayed to me what they were told by epson, not trying to convince me of the unit havin brand new sourced components. I suspect as you surmise, that the units are just new, not new sourced.


You are a good fellow and must be exhausted installing that many projectors,there needs to be a no lemon law on these projectors,sorry your having so much trouble! I'm just waiting for mine to go bad,Im a old [email protected] so its hard for me to install a projector


----------



## swyda038

Well, just had another power fail with the projector. This one lasted just over a year. The first power fail was after about 45 days of use and I received a new one from Crutchfield (within their 60day warranty period). This time, this replacement will be a re-furbished from Epson and should be here tomorrow. How have the refurbished ones been for people? Any issues? Will they have the most up to date firmware?
Thanks


----------



## seplant

swyda038 said:


> Well, just had another power fail with the projector. This one lasted just over a year. The first power fail was after about 45 days of use and I received a new one from Crutchfield (within their 60day warranty period). This time, this replacement will be a re-furbished from Epson and should be here tomorrow. How have the refurbished ones been for people? Any issues? Will they have the most up to date firmware?
> Thanks


Some refurbs have had issues. My first refurb had a dust blob (which resulted in a fuzzy red spot on the lower left of my screen). The replacement for that unit had some color uniformity issues, but I honestly couldn't see any issues in normal viewing, so I kept that one, and it has been performing well for the past six months or so. I think mine had the latest firmware at the time. 

Just make sure to thoroughly check performance in all modes before accepting a refurbished unit. Epson is really good about replacing defective units right away. I had taken photos of the dust blob issue I had to show them the issue, but they took my word for it and shipped me another unit right away.


----------



## avtvhdbass

jnabq said:


> Naw, my dealer has been great. Shipped/installed all 7 of my returns, taking pictures and workin through epson support to try and keep me a happy customer, which they have! They just relayed to me what they were told by epson, not trying to convince me of the unit havin brand new sourced components. I suspect as you surmise, that the units are just new, not new sourced.


Just wow. My dealer told me to deal with Epson directedly for quick response time. 7 returns is one too many hope you get lucky the 8th time. By the time I took down and installed the third one I was done.

I wonder even EPSON bothers with this issues any more. Their service has been great so far, quick replacements by overnight. By not having an option to save the settings to external devices, it's a time consuming process redo the setup again and again. I gave up on calibrating the projector


----------



## avtvhdbass

swyda038 said:


> Well, just had another power fail with the projector. This one lasted just over a year. The first power fail was after about 45 days of use and I received a new one from Crutchfield (within their 60day warranty period). This time, this replacement will be a re-furbished from Epson and should be here tomorrow. How have the refurbished ones been for people? Any issues? Will they have the most up to date firmware?
> Thanks


Oh dear. 12 months and failure .


One of my RMA units came with new firmware and a dust blob so it depends on your luck


----------



## avtvhdbass

WynsWrld98 said:


> Hoping a 5050/6050 announced at CEDIA 9/2018 with 18 GB HDMI chipset so no need for Linker/etc.


Hope they don't transfer the power failure technology.


----------



## avtvhdbass

jnabq said:


> #8 is up. (6040) My dealer talked me into giving it another try. NIB it seems, and no immediate issues noticed. Supposedly my dealer talked to the epson "technical director", who told him this one would be all new components and inspected. I'm not sure if "all new" means just "new in the box" as before, or if these have newer replacement components, alleviating past power supply issues. We'll see.



As some avs members say Trust but verify. 
Good luck with this projector


----------



## avtvhdbass

dholmes54 said:


> You are a good fellow and must be exhausted installing that many projectors,there needs to be a no lemon law on these projectors,sorry your having so much trouble! I'm just waiting for mine to go bad,Im a old [email protected] so its hard for me to install a projector


I hope it doesn't go bad for you.


----------



## Halichopter

*HDR on Epson 5040ub in Auto (Bright) Mode*

I just upgraded my firmware to 7YL28RMV111. Is this the right firmware load? I have tried to go to Epson.com and the website is offline. I found this from another site. In any case with this firmware, I now have the Auto (Bright) mode for HDR. However I have gone to both Netflix 4K HDR (Jessica Jones) and what used to be HDR in Amazon Prime (Goliath) and not only do they show up SDR in the Projector status under Info but if I force it to go to HDR1, they still have a status of SDR.

Are people able to get HDR to show up when they check the Info on the Epson for any Netflix or Amazon streaming videos?


----------



## seplant

Halichopter said:


> I just upgraded my firmware to 7YL28RMV111. Is this the right firmware load? I have tried to go to Epson.com and the website is offline. I found this from another site. In any case with this firmware, I now have the Auto (Bright) mode for HDR. However I have gone to both Netflix 4K HDR (Jessica Jones) and what used to be HDR in Amazon Prime (Goliath) and not only do they show up SDR in the Projector status under Info but if I force it to go to HDR1, they still have a status of SDR.
> 
> Are people able to get HDR to show up when they check the Info on the Epson for any Netflix or Amazon streaming videos?


Are you saying you were previously able to get HDR from Netflix and Amazon? The projector firmware version shouldn't affect whether you receive HDR from these services. 

Getting HDR from Netflix with this projector depends on which streaming device you are using. Some devices (like the Roku Premiere+/Ultra) require an HDFury Linker or Vertex to convert the signal to 8-bit. You also can't force the signal coming into the projector to be HDR just by changing that projector setting. The Info menu on the projector always tells you what kind of signal is being received at the projector, regardless of what you have that setting on.


----------



## Halichopter

seplant said:


> Are you saying you were previously able to get HDR from Netflix and Amazon? The projector firmware version shouldn't affect whether you receive HDR from these services.
> 
> Getting HDR from Netflix with this projector depends on which streaming device you are using. Some devices (like the Roku Premiere+/Ultra) require an HDFury Linker or Vertex to convert the signal to 8-bit. You also can't force the signal coming into the projector to be HDR just by changing that projector setting. The Info menu on the projector always tells you what kind of signal is being received at the projector, regardless of what you have that setting on.


Thanks for the reply. I thought I was able to previously get HDR from my Roku Ultra that I use to stream Netflix and Amazon. Maybe I just assumed that because the source material said HDR, it was getting though to the projector. However I'm wondering if maybe the Roku has a setting which was changed as I've used it for travel and connecting to other display devices than my 5040UB. I will check on that. I also called Epson and they directed me to the latest firmware so I just upgraded that from the one I found on randomly on the net.


----------



## seplant

Halichopter said:


> Thanks for the reply. I thought I was able to previously get HDR from my Roku Ultra that I use to stream Netflix and Amazon. Maybe I just assumed that because the source material said HDR, it was getting though to the projector. However I'm wondering if maybe the Roku has a setting which was changed as I've used it for travel and connecting to other display devices than my 5040UB. I will check on that. I also called Epson and they directed me to the latest firmware so I just upgraded that from the one I found on randomly on the net.


I was able to get 4K BT.2020 from Netflix using the Roku Premiere+ but never HDR before I got a Linker, which also enables HDR from YouTube, which has a bunch of HDR demo videos that are pretty sweet.


----------



## Halichopter

seplant said:


> I was able to get 4K BT.2020 from Netflix using the Roku Premiere+ but never HDR before I got a Linker, which also enables HDR from YouTube, which has a bunch of HDR demo videos that are pretty sweet.


Seplant, I am sure you are right. I've changed my settings on the Roku Ultra to 4K UHD HDR 30fps and it still does not work. I looked for the HDFury Linker, OMG it is way more than the price of my Roku Ultra, $189. How can Roku and Epson claim to support HDR but to get them to talk together you have to spend another couple hundred dollars? I did find HDFury 4K Ultra AVRkey for $149 on Monoprice, will that also work? In your opinion, is it all worth it? How do you like the results?


----------



## seplant

Halichopter said:


> Seplant, I am sure you are right. I've changed my settings on the Roku Ultra to 4K UHD HDR 30fps and it still does not work. I looked for the HDFury Linker, OMG it is way more than the price of my Roku Ultra, $189. How can Roku and Epson claim to support HDR but to get them to talk together you have to spend another couple hundred dollars? I did find HDFury 4K Ultra AVRkey for $149 on Monoprice, will that also work? In your opinion, is it all worth it? How do you like the results?


Epson can claim HDR support because it is fully compatible with UHD HDR blu-ray. It can support streaming HDR at lower bit rates. 

Is the Linker worth it? I don't watch that much streaming HDR content, but when it is available and it works, it looks amazing. Some of the demo videos on YouTube are really breathtaking. It's nice to be able to show off that kind of content, but I really don't use it that much. An occasional Netflix program and that's it. When I watch HDR content, it is usually on UHD blu-ray. Plus, I can't get the Linker to consistently sync, so I end up having to manually cycle power by unplugging it to get it to sync. I think I've tried all the recommended settings in this thread and I still can't get it to sync consistently on power up. 

I don't know anything about the AVRkey you mentioned. I haven't seen it discussed anywhere in this thread, so I can only assume that it wouldn't work.


----------



## jnabq

dholmes54 said:


> You are a good fellow and must be exhausted installing that many projectors,there needs to be a no lemon law on these projectors,sorry your having so much trouble! I'm just waiting for mine to go bad,Im a old [email protected] so its hard for me to install a projector



My dealer has been installing them and dealing with all aspects of the replacements. Coming to my home, for each return to accomplish the swaps/installs, and jumping through epson's hoops, getting pictures, etc. Like I said, the dealer has really taken care of me. Been real happy with their service, Epson. meh



Epson actually called the dealer to get feedback, they forwarded them to my number. I asked the lady if she had any clue as to how many had been returned. She had no idea when I told her. She kinda said "oh" and that was about the end of our conversation.


----------



## jnabq

swyda038 said:


> Well, just had another power fail with the projector. This one lasted just over a year. The first power fail was after about 45 days of use and I received a new one from Crutchfield (within their 60day warranty period). This time, this replacement will be a re-furbished from Epson and should be here tomorrow. How have the refurbished ones been for people? Any issues? Will they have the most up to date firmware?
> Thanks



All the swaps that came to me, had latest firmware. My dealer have been pressing them hard to send me new units, so most have been nib. For the ones that were marked as refurb, (3 I think), dead pixels, weird fan noises, lens scratches. The last one had the lens scratch/gouges was the best of the bunch. I was tempted to keep it, but my dealer wanted me to try another go. This last swap was new, and seems ok so far.


----------



## Uppsalaing

*Apple TV4K streams HDR*

The Apple TV4K streams 4K HDR to the Epson easily as it plays content at it's native frame rate (usually 24p).

Might be a more elegant solution for Netflix HDR streaming than getting a linker... Just another option... Also, you can do 1080p HDR on the AppleTV4K and let the Epson upscale if you wish (e.g. for any possible 50/60p HDR content on Netflix or iTunes)...

As a bonus there are a huge number of movies in HDR on iTunes for rental...


----------



## CaseyH71

Wow! After trolling this thread for what seems like weeks now I just wanted to give a HUGE thank you to all who have contributed! So much value added...

I should take possession of my 5040ub within the next hour or so. I am very "cautiously" excited about the new PJ considering I am upgrading from a 15yr old Sony HS20. 

I feel up to the task and look forward to sharing with you all here. Now on to screen replacement and thinking of going scoped.

Thanks again and God speed!

Casey


----------



## seplant

Uppsalaing said:


> The Apple TV4K streams 4K HDR to the Epson easily as it plays content at it's native frame rate (usually 24p).
> 
> Might be a more elegant solution for Netflix HDR streaming than getting a linker... Just another option... Also, you can do 1080p HDR on the AppleTV4K and let the Epson upscale if you wish (e.g. for any possible 50/60p HDR content on Netflix or iTunes)...
> 
> As a bonus there are a huge number of movies in HDR on iTunes for rental...


The only reason I haven't jumped to ATV is that it doesn't support HDR from YouTube.


----------



## ClerkDante

I’ve had this projector for about two months (5040) and just can’t seem to get the picture where I want it. Sometimes it’s mind blowing and others it’s a mess. 

Any recommendations for calibration in the SF Bay Area?


----------



## Azekecse

ClerkDante said:


> I’ve had this projector for about two months (5040) and just can’t seem to get the picture where I want it. Sometimes it’s mind blowing and others it’s a mess.
> 
> Any recommendations for calibration in the SF Bay Area?


It's really media/source and screen dependent, that's why I have all 10 memory slots taken, so that I can change on the fly. You need to customize/modify Oledurt and Harpervision baseline settings, i.e. Autobright, Gamma, etc., take it one or two steps at a time. You can have it professionally calibrated, usually runs around $300.00. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## LumensLover

ClerkDante said:


> I’ve had this projector for about two months (5040) and just can’t seem to get the picture where I want it. Sometimes it’s mind blowing and others it’s a mess.
> 
> Any recommendations for calibration in the SF Bay Area?


Have you tried a professional calibrator?


----------



## Juiced46

Halichopter said:


> I just upgraded my firmware to 7YL28RMV111. Is this the right firmware load? I have tried to go to Epson.com and the website is offline. I found this from another site. In any case with this firmware, I now have the Auto (Bright) mode for HDR. However I have gone to both Netflix 4K HDR (Jessica Jones) and what used to be HDR in Amazon Prime (Goliath) and not only do they show up SDR in the Projector status under Info but if I force it to go to HDR1, they still have a status of SDR.
> 
> Are people able to get HDR to show up when they check the Info on the Epson for any Netflix or Amazon streaming videos?


Selecting the HDR mode does not force an HDR signal and will not change the info screen from SDR to HDR. If you are seeing SDR on the info screen, the Epson is getting sent an SDR signal. 



ClerkDante said:


> I’ve had this projector for about two months (5040) and just can’t seem to get the picture where I want it. Sometimes it’s mind blowing and others it’s a mess.
> 
> Any recommendations for calibration in the SF Bay Area?


Can you give us some more details on what is going on? What looks good? What looks bad? What viewing modes, sources are you using?


----------



## inspector

Since there are six color modes for BD/BD and UHD and two 3D color modes, you better know which one you want ISFed.


They are not going to calibrate all of them, unless you want to pay lots of money.


I use BRIGHT for UHD, NATURAL for BD/SD, B&W Cinema for B&W and DYNAMIC CINEMA for 3D.


Now, what ISFer is going to do those three for about $300-500...NO ONE!


Look thru this thread and come up with your own settings...which most of us have done.


Good luck, and remember, no matter what settings you come up with, you will continually tinker with the setting, especially if you read this thread!


...it's a disease and you can't stop it!!!


----------



## robc1976

Exact reason I calibrated myself, this projector is very tricky to calibrate HDR on, I finally figured out how to get it to track gamma, if not using natural or digital cinnema your colors will bec way off...like mind blowing off. I was very surprised.

Most calibrator are not going to take the time to get your gamma and colors dialed in because of how long it takes. My calibration blows my calibrators away but he did not spend the time I did. 

There is a complete dedicated thread to calibrating this projector and its defiantly a learning curve but its, really worth it in the end. Its neat to see how one thing effects another etc and mind blowing just how far off just copying settings are. The colors being off isn't the biggest deal, but once you get gamma correct it really shows you wear this projector can do.

Natural mode and is actually just as bright if not brighter than bright cinema in nits.


inspector said:


> Since there are six color modes for BD/BD and UHD and two 3D color modes, you better know which one you want ISFed.
> 
> 
> They are not going to calibrate all of them, unless you want to pay lots of money.
> 
> 
> I use BRIGHT for UHD, NATURAL for BD/SD, B&W Cinema for B&W and DYNAMIC CINEMA for 3D.
> 
> 
> Now, what ISFer is going to do those three for about $300-500...NO ONE!
> 
> 
> Look thru this thread and come up with your own settings...which most of us have done.
> 
> 
> Good luck, and remember, no matter what settings you come up with, you will continually tinker with the setting, especially if you read this thread!
> 
> 
> ...it's a disease and you can't stop it!!!


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Azekecse said:


> It's really media/source and screen dependent, that's why I have all 10 memory slots taken, so that I can change on the fly. You need to customize/modify Oledurt and Harpervision baseline settings, i.e. Autobright, Gamma, etc., take it one or two steps at a time. You can have it professionally calibrated, usually runs around $300.00. Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


I would never use auto bright, clips the hell out of the picture

"Auto" tracks gamma much better

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Jem87

I have two 4K players. One is the phillips and the other is the Sony UBP. When I use the phillips it shows the Epson projector is receiving an HDR signal. But when I use the Sony it shows it's receiving SDR and does the HDR to SDR conversion. 



Anyone know why? I'd like to use the Sony with this projector because it has bluetooth for headphones and has a better usb drive.


----------



## Uppsalaing

Jem87 said:


> I have two 4K players. One is the phillips and the other is the Sony UBP. When I use the phillips it shows the Epson projector is receiving an HDR signal. But when I use the Sony it shows it's receiving SDR and does the HDR to SDR conversion.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know why? I'd like to use the Sony with this projector because it has bluetooth for headphones and has a better usb drive.


Check the player settings...



What is the source for your HDR content? Disc, apps or USB? At what frame rate?


----------



## Azekecse

robc1976 said:


> I would never use auto bright, clips the hell out of the picture
> 
> "Auto" tracks gamma much better
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


IMHO, it depends on the media and source, for some media auto bright works for me, for others it does not...That's why I use all of my memory slots .


----------



## ffaint

Hi there! Just installed my new 5040ub with content coming from a Roku 4 Ultra. I'm a big fan so far. Given the projector's 4k enhancement feature for 1080p content, I wonder if it's better to change the Roku's display settings to 1080p when watching content I know is only 1080p, such as HBO Go. As it stands right now, when watching 1080p content with the Roku configured to output at 4k, the projector's 4k enhancement feature is greyed out. I assume then that the Roku is scaling the content up to 4k. I also assume that the projector would do a much better job scaling the content itself with 4k enhancement.





Is this assumption correct?
If so, do I have to constantly change the Roku's display settings when switching between 1080p and 4k content? Any shortcuts or work arounds?
Finally, does anyone have any suggestions for finding and selecting a professional to calibrate the projector in my area (San Diego)?

Thanks in advance and I apologize if these questions have been asked before. I did spend quite sometime searching the forum before posting. It'd be great if this site had a Stackoverflow style voting system for questions and answers. There's so much quality information here but it's kind of a mess!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Exact reason I calibrated myself, this projector is very tricky to calibrate HDR on, I finally figured out how to get it to track gamma, if not using natural or digital cinnema your colors will bec way off...like mind blowing off. I was very surprised.
> 
> Most calibrator are not going to take the time to get your gamma and colors dialed in because of how long it takes. My calibration blows my calibrators away but he did not spend the time I did.
> 
> There is a complete dedicated thread to calibrating this projector and its defiantly a learning curve but its, really worth it in the end. Its neat to see how one thing effects another etc and mind blowing just how far off just copying settings are. The colors being off isn't the biggest deal, but once you get gamma correct it really shows you wear this projector can do.
> 
> Natural mode and is actually just as bright if not brighter than bright cinema in nits.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




So I’m guessing buying he light meter and calibrating it yourself worked out well and was worth it? I have been tempted since you bit the bullet and got the meter but am so happy with my current settings that I’m not sure if it’s worth it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ht guy

CaseyH71 said:


> Wow! After trolling this thread for what seems like weeks now I just wanted to give a HUGE thank you to all who have contributed! So much value added...
> 
> I should take possession of my 5040ub within the next hour or so. I am very "cautiously" excited about the new PJ considering I am upgrading from a 15yr old Sony HS20.
> 
> I feel up to the task and look forward to sharing with you all here. Now on to screen replacement and thinking of going scoped.
> 
> Thanks again and God speed!
> 
> Casey


Congrats on your purchase.

We went from an 10 y/o Panny AE2000 and have been blown away by the Epson.


----------



## seplant

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I’m guessing buying he light meter and calibrating it yourself worked out well and was worth it? I have been tempted since you bit the bullet and got the meter but am so happy with my current settings that I’m not sure if it’s worth it.


You'll be surprised by two things if you buy that meter and calibrate your projector yourself:

1) How much better the image will look in all modes.

2) How much time you will spend learning how and then actually calibrating!


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I’m guessing buying he light meter and calibrating it yourself worked out well and was worth it? I have been tempted since you bit the bullet and got the meter but am so happy with my current settings that I’m not sure if it’s worth it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Dude, its worth it. Your settings are the best copies settings for sure but once you measure your will be shocked how far off they are (not any fault of yours). 

One you calibrate you well be shocked just how good this projector is.

I prefer natural over bright cinnema because nstural is brighter, tracks gamma better, better grayscale and way better color tracking.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Very good idea, but once you calibrate everything to clip at 3-4,000 nits you will not lose detail so auto looks better on every source. When calibrating I noticed some sources looked better on auto add that is before they clipped really early so you didn't see a lot of what "auto bright" was destroying/clipping. Once the connect had ca, good gamma curve ext you will see what auto bright does to the highlights, blacks ECT as will not use it ever (unless in very ambient lit room).


Azekecse said:


> IMHO, it depends on the media and source, for some media auto bright works for me, for others it does not...That's why I use all of my memory slots .


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Halichopter

Uppsalaing said:


> The Apple TV4K streams 4K HDR to the Epson easily as it plays content at it's native frame rate (usually 24p).
> 
> Might be a more elegant solution for Netflix HDR streaming than getting a linker... Just another option... Also, you can do 1080p HDR on the AppleTV4K and let the Epson upscale if you wish (e.g. for any possible 50/60p HDR content on Netflix or iTunes)...
> 
> As a bonus there are a huge number of movies in HDR on iTunes for rental...


What is it about the Roku that HDR doesn't work with Epson, that it doesn't stream at the native frame rate? Is there any Roku box that can stream HDR to the Epson?

The AppleTV 4K might be an option, it is cheaper than the Linker. I was on the verge of ordering a Linker but Seplant's comment about having to resync it frequently soured me on that. The only issue with getting yet another streaming device is my HomeTheater universal remote is a professionally programmed remote and I spent a fair amount of $$ to get it set up. Not sure what I would get charged for adding a new device. I have the software but it is hardly easy to use if you aren't doing it for a living. I like the comment about HDR on iTunes. I have a Netflix blu-ray subscription but there are no HDR Netflix discs as far as I know.


----------



## Uppsalaing

Halichopter said:


> What is it about the Roku that HDR doesn't work with Epson, that it doesn't stream at the native frame rate? Is there any Roku box that can stream HDR to the Epson?
> 
> The AppleTV 4K might be an option, it is cheaper than the Linker. I was on the verge of ordering a Linker but Seplant's comment about having to resync it frequently soured me on that. The only issue with getting yet another streaming device is my HomeTheater universal remote is a professionally programmed remote and I spent a fair amount of $$ to get it set up. Not sure what I would get charged for adding a new device. I have the software but it is hardly easy to use if you aren't doing it for a living. I like the comment about HDR on iTunes. I have a Netflix blu-ray subscription but there are no HDR Netflix discs as far as I know.


I'm not familiar with the Roku, so can't help you there. As for the linker, it seems a lot of people who are using it, do so for gaming. I don't know if that is a concern for you.


I suppose you have to shortlist your options and decide what sources to have depending on your requirements and integration.


----------



## avsnoob10

OrcusVaruna said:


> The new HDR setting is definitely watchable on sdr 709 content. I was watching regular tv last night and thought the picture looked off and sure enough I had the bc hdr setting on. So I still prefer a proper sdr specific setting but if you have a family that can’t be bothered with such things as changing a setting for different content then the hdr setting will work. I updated the pictures to reflect the most recent and I suspect final changes. I am very happy with the image produced now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Folks,

Are there settings for Sports 1080p SDR? 

I got the projector last July/August and was installed but finally got some time to put things on the correct settings, mostly my kids watched movies on default settings for last 10 months . I saved both 4k HDR and 1080p SDR settings on 2 memory positions. I have Denon x6300h receiver which isn't hooked up to the Epson 5040UB yet. The projector is still connected old Denon 4311 receiver which obviously doesn't support HDR. I am using Apple TV with DirectTVNow App. For last 9-10 months the only thing we switch back and forth up until now is the lens position for wide format content (2.35:1) and 16:9 content because I have a 138" Wide 2.35:1 screen. 

i do have question about the lens position. For 2.35:1 I zoomed in my screen to fill the screen completely and saved the lens position so when I am watching wide format movies I don't see bars but Epson projector settings menu, Apple TV main page and the Denon receiver menu or volume bar goes outside the screen and shows up below (or above) the screen border, just want to make sure that is normal, can someone tell me if I am doing this correctly for 2.35:1 content? For 16:9 content I zoomed out and fit the height of the picture within the screen so I see bars on the left and right, I assume that is normal? And I have saved 16:9 as a separate lens position. 

Thanks everyone.


----------



## pedromvu

*Apple TV questions*

Hi, finally got an Apple TV as the Shield TV was making me mad with all the framerate switching and weird color issues.

I have 2 questions though:

1.- Has anyone noticed that the subtitles turn very dark when watching HDR content? they are at points quite gray I am not sure if they are changing based on content but it seems like that to me, this doesn't happen with other devices like Shield TV and my UHD blu-ray player.

2.- Quickly compared a movie both in iTunes HDR and UHD blu-ray, and if the transfer is the same, it seemed to me that both colors and brightness weren't the same, is there an Apple TV app were I could run my test patterns to calibrate against the native player? I compared the UHD blu-ray against MrMC and both gave pretty much the same result but I don't think MrMC uses the native player as most other apps like iTunes or Netflix.


----------



## Dominic Chan

pedromvu said:


> Hi, finally got an Apple TV as the Shield TV was making me mad with all the framerate switching and weird color issues.
> 
> I have 2 questions though:
> 
> 1.- Has anyone noticed that the subtitles turn very dark when watching HDR content? they are at points quite gray I am not sure if they are changing based on content but it seems like that to me, this doesn't happen with other devices like Shield TV and my UHD blu-ray player.


Yes, the ATV subtitles do not use full brightness for HDR; that would be too bright (as bright as the HDR specular highlights). That’s actually one feature I like about the ATV. It also places the subtitle within the picture area for CinemaScope movies, which is important if you have a 2.35:1 screen.

Which app were you using when you find the subtitles very dark? Netflix has its own subtitles appearance settings, and that needs to be selected as full white, not semitransparent.


----------



## pedromvu

Dominic Chan said:


> Yes, the ATV subtitles do not use full brightness for HDR; that would be too bright (as bright as the HDR specular highlights). That’s actually one feature I like about the ATV. It also places the subtitle within the picture area for CinemaScope movies, which is important if you have a 2.35:1 screen.
> 
> Which app were you using when you find the subtitles very dark? Netflix has its own subtitles appearance settings, and that needs to be selected as full white, not semitransparent.


Checked with several apps, seems like it varies depending on content, or maybe it is just my imagination and its just more noticeable when there is something very bright in the screen, I estimate subtitles are somewhere around half as bright as my peak brightness.

I understand this is a problem with TVs, on Shield TV with a TV I remember the subtitles are actually too bright, this is not really an issue with a projector I just wish there could be a middle ground, because when subtitles are too dark it is a bit distracting too, also maybe this varies by film but I noticed the subtitles at least on iTunes app get placed a little too high on a CinemaScope movie.


----------



## Jem87

Uppsalaing said:


> Check the player settings...
> 
> 
> 
> What is the source for your HDR content? Disc, apps or USB? At what frame rate?


UHD blu-ray. 



Turns out the Sony player was set to 60p. 24p has HDR.


----------



## seplant

Halichopter said:


> What is it about the Roku that HDR doesn't work with Epson, that it doesn't stream at the native frame rate? Is there any Roku box that can stream HDR to the Epson?
> 
> The AppleTV 4K might be an option, it is cheaper than the Linker. I was on the verge of ordering a Linker but Seplant's comment about having to resync it frequently soured me on that. The only issue with getting yet another streaming device is my HomeTheater universal remote is a professionally programmed remote and I spent a fair amount of $$ to get it set up. Not sure what I would get charged for adding a new device. I have the software but it is hardly easy to use if you aren't doing it for a living. I like the comment about HDR on iTunes. I have a Netflix blu-ray subscription but there are no HDR Netflix discs as far as I know.


One recent change I made to my setup that seems to have helped was to place the Linker between my Roku and my receiver instead of between my receiver and the projector. I can do this because the Roku is the only device I have that needs the color bit depth conversion to allow HDR to pass through to the projector. This suggests possibly an issue with my cabling when the Linker is connected between the receiver and projector. If I were to get an Xbox or PS4, I would be looking for another solution.


----------



## Halichopter

robc1976 said:


> Exact reason I calibrated myself, this projector is very tricky to calibrate HDR on, I finally figured out how to get it to track gamma, if not using natural or digital cinnema your colors will bec way off...like mind blowing off. I was very surprised.
> 
> Most calibrator are not going to take the time to get your gamma and colors dialed in because of how long it takes. My calibration blows my calibrators away but he did not spend the time I did.
> 
> There is a complete dedicated thread to calibrating this projector and its defiantly a learning curve but its, really worth it in the end. Its neat to see how one thing effects another etc and mind blowing just how far off just copying settings are. The colors being off isn't the biggest deal, but once you get gamma correct it really shows you wear this projector can do.
> 
> Natural mode and is actually just as bright if not brighter than bright cinema in nits.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


robc1976, how can I find the dedicated thread for calibration and what specific meter are people talking about? Thanks.


----------



## seplant

Halichopter said:


> how can I find the dedicated thread for calibration and what specific meter are people talking about? Thanks.


Calibrating HDR on Epson 5040/6040 Projectors thread

X-Rite i1Display Pro - Display Calibration meter


----------



## deathstroke

I've had my 5040UB a little over two months. Twice in the past week or so, it's taken more than a minute to start up. The fan immediately starts at high speed, and there is no Epson logo. Maybe a minute or more later, the logo shows up and the fan slows down to eco mode as I have set it. I found a forum post about this issue on the 5030UB http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/1528918-epson-5030-6030-delayed-start-problem.html, and one mention back in December 2016 on this thread but don't seem to see any recent posts about this issue here.
Anyone experiencing this issue on their 5040 lately? I haven't updated the firmware on it, and the lamp has about 200 hours. Sounds like a "feature" that made it from the 5030 to the 5040. Both times it happened, the projector was off for at least 24 hours.
My previous unit was a 9500UB, the third replacement of said model, which recently developed fatal issues after eight years. I'm really not looking to try my luck at replacements from Epson unless absolutely necessary.


----------



## seplant

deathstroke said:


> I've had my 5040UB a little over two months. Twice in the past week or so, it's taken more than a minute to start up. The fan immediately starts at high speed, and there is no Epson logo. Maybe a minute or more later, the logo shows up and the fan slows down to eco mode as I have set it. I found a forum post about this issue on the 5030UB http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/1528918-epson-5030-6030-delayed-start-problem.html, and one mention back in December 2016 on this thread but don't seem to see any recent posts about this issue here.
> Anyone experiencing this issue on their 5040 lately? I haven't updated the firmware on it, and the lamp has about 200 hours. Sounds like a "feature" that made it from the 5030 to the 5040. Both times it happened, the projector was off for at least 24 hours.
> My previous unit was a 9500UB, the third replacement of said model, which recently developed fatal issues after eight years. I'm really not looking to try my luck at replacements from Epson unless absolutely necessary.


There have been numerous reports of the high fan/delayed startup in this thread. Some have suggested that this is a precursor to the dreaded power supply failure, but I don't think there is any proof of that. My previous unit did this quite frequently over the course of a year or so, but the power supply never failed. That unit was replaced because of a different issue, and my replacement unit I think may have done this once so far (I've got less than 400 hours on this one). 

I honestly wouldn't about this. As long as your power supply hangs in there, waiting an extra minute every once in a while on startup isn't so bad!


----------



## The_Forth_Man

deathstroke said:


> I've had my 5040UB a little over two months. Twice in the past week or so, it's taken more than a minute to start up. The fan immediately starts at high speed, and there is no Epson logo. Maybe a minute or more later, the logo shows up and the fan slows down to eco mode as I have set it. I found a forum post about this issue on the 5030UB http://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/1528918-epson-5030-6030-delayed-start-problem.html, and one mention back in December 2016 on this thread but don't seem to see any recent posts about this issue here.
> Anyone experiencing this issue on their 5040 lately? I haven't updated the firmware on it, and the lamp has about 200 hours. Sounds like a "feature" that made it from the 5030 to the 5040. Both times it happened, the projector was off for at least 24 hours.
> My previous unit was a 9500UB, the third replacement of said model, which recently developed fatal issues after eight years. I'm really not looking to try my luck at replacements from Epson unless absolutely necessary.





seplant said:


> There have been numerous reports of the high fan/delayed startup in this thread. Some have suggested that this is a precursor to the dreaded power supply failure, but I don't think there is any proof of that. My previous unit did this quite frequently over the course of a year or so, but the power supply never failed. That unit was replaced because of a different issue, and my replacement unit I think may have done this once so far (I've got less than 400 hours on this one).
> 
> I honestly wouldn't about this. As long as your power supply hangs in there, waiting an extra minute every once in a while on startup isn't so bad!


My 5040 as done this on a couple of occasions but so does my 2040 (more often even) I dont think it as to do with the power supply failure either.

I do have a theory that I'm looking into. What where the temps in the room when you have this issue and did you use the Pj previously that day? 

Just curious.


----------



## robc1976

seplant said:


> Calibrating HDR on Epson 5040/6040 Projectors thread
> 
> X-Rite i1Display Pro - Display Calibration meter


Boom! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Dude, its worth it. Your settings are the best copies settings for sure but once you measure your will be shocked how far off they are (not any fault of yours).
> 
> One you calibrate you well be shocked just how good this projector is.
> 
> I prefer natural over bright cinnema because nstural is brighter, tracks gamma better, better grayscale and way better color tracking.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




I’ll have to give it a try at some point, I was reading the calibration thread and it’s a wee bit intimidating lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

OrcusVaruna said:


> I’ll have to give it a try at some point, I was reading the calibration thread and it’s a wee bit intimidating lol


Start with the HCFR thread. That can be a bit intimidating also, but the first post in that thread has some good beginners info under "Useful Links". You don't need to be an expert to get good results. You may not get the same results as a professional calibrator, but if you can make improvements to the grayscale, gamma, and color balance, you may be surprised at just how great an image this projector can throw!


----------



## deathstroke

The_Forth_Man said:


> My 5040 as done this on a couple of occasions but so does my 2040 (more often even) I dont think it as to do with the power supply failure either.
> 
> I do have a theory that I'm looking into. What where the temps in the room when you have this issue and did you use the Pj previously that day?
> 
> Just curious.


Yesterday it was about 68 degrees. It's in the basement which rarely gets above 72 or so. The previous day I used it for one hour to watch Westworld, so it was off from 10pm until 8pm last night. The first time it happened it was probably around 70 down there but I think it may have been more than a day since last used...two days at most.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

seplant said:


> Start with the HCFR thread. That can be a bit intimidating also, but the first post in that thread has some good beginners info under "Useful Links". You don't need to be an expert to get good results. You may not get the same results as a professional calibrator, but if you can make improvements to the grayscale, gamma, and color balance, you may be surprised at just how great an image this projector can throw!




Was just looking through that thread and definitely some awesome information in there. I’ll pick up the x-rite meter in the next few weeks as this looks like an awesome rainy weekend project. I’m interested to see how far my current settings are from calibrated. It always shocks me how terrible humans are at judging color, temperature, gamma etc. even if you are used to a professionally calibrated image. Heck most of us carry around iPhones and especially those of us that use an iPhone X view a picture perfect calibrated display every day yet we still are terrible at judging another display for accuracy. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

OrcusVaruna said:


> Was just looking through that thread and definitely some awesome information in there. I’ll pick up the x-rite meter in the next few weeks as this looks like an awesome rainy weekend project. I’m interested to see how far my current settings are from calibrated. It always shocks me how terrible humans are at judging color, temperature, gamma etc. even if you are used to a professionally calibrated image. Heck most of us carry around iPhones and especially those of us that use an iPhone X view a picture perfect calibrated display every day yet we still are terrible at judging another display for accuracy.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Calibrate SDR first... It's easier and you'll see how good normal blurays can look...


----------



## Halichopter

seplant said:


> Calibrating HDR on Epson 5040/6040 Projectors thread
> 
> X-Rite i1Display Pro - Display Calibration meter


Thanks!


----------



## kartsound

*ATV 4K setting -- Please help*

I see 2 recommendations:

Set to 4K HDR 24Hz
Chroma set to 4:2:2
Match Content turned on for Range and Frame Rate

Another says:

Set to 4K SDR 60hz
Chroma set to 4:2:0
Match Content turned on for Range and Frame Rate

Which one to go with?


----------



## DireWolf08

*Best Streaming Player for 5040ub: AppleTV 4K or Shield TV*

I am in the market for a new streamer as my first gen FireTV is getting a little long in the tooth (and has no support for 4K or HDR). Are there any 5040ub owners who have experience with both the AppleTV and Nvidia ShieldTV? Which one would you recommend and why? How buggy are either of them? It seems like both are reasonably compatible with this projector, though the AppleTV might have the edge? At the same time, there are apps (tunein, kodi, anything sideloadable) available on ShieldTV that just arent available on AppleTV. 

Thoughts and opinions welcome!


----------



## Uppsalaing

kartsound said:


> I see 2 recommendations:
> 
> Set to 4K HDR 24Hz
> Chroma set to 4:2:2
> Match Content turned on for Range and Frame Rate
> 
> Another says:
> 
> Set to 4K SDR 60hz
> Chroma set to 4:2:0
> Match Content turned on for Range and Frame Rate
> 
> Which one to go with?


The second one. Smoother menus user interface. Zero drawbacks.


----------



## Uppsalaing

DireWolf08 said:


> I am in the market for a new streamer as my first gen FireTV is getting a little long in the tooth (and has no support for 4K or HDR). Are there any 5040ub owners who have experience with both the AppleTV and Nvidia ShieldTV? Which one would you recommend and why? How buggy are either of them? It seems like both are reasonably compatible with this projector, though the AppleTV might have the edge? At the same time, there are apps (tunein, kodi, anything sideloadable) available on ShieldTV that just arent available on AppleTV.
> 
> Thoughts and opinions welcome!


AppleTV4K towers above the shield... You really need to have a niche requirement that onky the Shield can do for it to be an alternative...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DireWolf08 said:


> I am in the market for a new streamer as my first gen FireTV is getting a little long in the tooth (and has no support for 4K or HDR). Are there any 5040ub owners who have experience with both the AppleTV and Nvidia ShieldTV? Which one would you recommend and why? How buggy are either of them? It seems like both are reasonably compatible with this projector, though the AppleTV might have the edge? At the same time, there are apps (tunein, kodi, anything sideloadable) available on ShieldTV that just arent available on AppleTV.
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts and opinions welcome!




No experience with the shield but it’s my understanding they are very similar as both support HDR 24hz streaming. Differentiators are hdr YouTube on the shield and apples fantastic iTunes library of 4K movies. I am personally heavily invested in apples ecosystem so it made the decision easy for me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

DireWolf08 said:


> I am in the market for a new streamer as my first gen FireTV is getting a little long in the tooth (and has no support for 4K or HDR). Are there any 5040ub owners who have experience with both the AppleTV and Nvidia ShieldTV? Which one would you recommend and why? How buggy are either of them? It seems like both are reasonably compatible with this projector, though the AppleTV might have the edge? At the same time, there are apps (tunein, kodi, anything sideloadable) available on ShieldTV that just arent available on AppleTV.
> 
> Thoughts and opinions welcome!


On the AppleTV4K thread there is a current discussion on the minutia of what the shield can compete with the Apple TV om... It's mostly related to accesing movies on a local server and even then it's inconclusive which is better...


For everything else, the Apple TV is better and you have itunes rentals...


----------



## MartyMcFlyy

DireWolf08 said:


> I am in the market for a new streamer as my first gen FireTV is getting a little long in the tooth (and has no support for 4K or HDR). Are there any 5040ub owners who have experience with both the AppleTV and Nvidia ShieldTV? Which one would you recommend and why? How buggy are either of them? It seems like both are reasonably compatible with this projector, though the AppleTV might have the edge? At the same time, there are apps (tunein, kodi, anything sideloadable) available on ShieldTV that just arent available on AppleTV.
> 
> Thoughts and opinions welcome!


I have both of them. Depending what you need. To me ATV4K and Shield complement each other and its a bit like Android and ios type of discussion 

Shield has more Android like apps, which ATV 4K doesn't
ATV 4K is better for 4K streaming on Epson (4K HDR Netflix, better user interface), for itunes 4K rentals, if you have apple environment to use airplay and stream from your apple devices w/o using HDMI.
Shield I use mostly for accessing my NAS, for apps that you cannot find on ATV, also thanks to builtin chromecast to connect/stream from android mobile.
You can use shield as gaming console.

Apple says ATV 4K will have Atmos pass through. Let's see when this is implemented and works 
for the time being sound is better on Shield.


----------



## Halichopter

Uppsalaing said:


> The Apple TV4K streams 4K HDR to the Epson easily as it plays content at it's native frame rate (usually 24p).
> 
> Might be a more elegant solution for Netflix HDR streaming than getting a linker... Just another option... Also, you can do 1080p HDR on the AppleTV4K and let the Epson upscale if you wish (e.g. for any possible 50/60p HDR content on Netflix or iTunes)...
> 
> As a bonus there are a huge number of movies in HDR on iTunes for rental...


Uppsalaing,

I bought a new AppleTV 4K and put it in the HDMI port that I use for my Samsung Ultra HD player which reliably sends HDR to my Epson when I'm using a 4K HDR disc.

I went through the AppleTV's 'Try HDR' test and I get a black screen until the timer times out and the AppleTV says that perhaps I must change settings on my TV to accommodate HDR. I have the Epson set to Auto. I set the Epson to HDR1 and got the same results. FYI, I'm using a Marantz SR7010 AVR. Just in case the AVR was the issue I directly connected the AppleTV to the Epson and still no HDR.

Are you sure you are getting HDR to your Epson? If so are there special settings needed for the AppleTV?

Thanks,

Hal


----------



## Keith Ferguson

*For everything else....except audio!!!*



Uppsalaing said:


> On the AppleTV4K thread there is a current discussion on the minutia of what the shield can compete with the Apple TV om... It's mostly related to accesing movies on a local server and even then it's inconclusive which is better...
> 
> 
> For everything else, the Apple TV is better and you have itunes rentals...


The ATV4K is my first stab at the Apple eco system and I have to say I am not impressed. I have always heard how user friendly it was...not so for me. I will not get into why do I need a Apple login and a separate Itunes login .

But on topic.....Come on Apple why no Atmos? my roku does it at a fraction of the price...heck my xbox one s has supported it for a YEAR!!! I have hundreds invested in speakers overhead that are dead quiet with my ATV4K.  absurd 

When setup I have no complaints about how it handles the video end. (still needs tweeks for my calibration though)

I do need to figure out how to customize the menu (if this user friendly device will let me?) but that is a different thread.


----------



## Mr.G

Halichopter said:


> I went through the AppleTV's 'Try HDR' test and I get a black screen until the timer times out and the AppleTV says that perhaps I must change settings on my TV to accommodate HDR. I have the Epson set to Auto. I set the Epson to HDR1 and got the same results. FYI, I'm using a Marantz SR7010 AVR. Just in case the AVR was the issue I directly connected the AppleTV to the Epson and still no HDR.





> When you first connect your Apple TV 4K to a 4K television capable of HDR10 or Dolby Vision, you may be prompted to run a short display test for these formats. Follow the onscreen instructions to run the test, and confirm that you have a clear picture. If Apple TV 4K is unable to confirm that your television can display Dolby Vision or HDR10, it will automatically revert back to the mode it was previously using.
> 
> To confirm which video mode your Apple TV 4K is using, go to Settings > Video and Audio. From here, you can manually select a display format.


https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208074


----------



## Halichopter

_


Mr.G said:



https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208074

Click to expand...

Quote:
When you first connect your Apple TV 4K to a 4K television capable of HDR10 or Dolby Vision, you may be prompted to run a short display test for these formats. Follow the onscreen instructions to run the test, and confirm that you have a clear picture. If Apple TV 4K is unable to confirm that your television can display Dolby Vision or HDR10, it will automatically revert back to the mode it was previously using.

To confirm which video mode your Apple TV 4K is using, go to Settings > Video and Audio. From here, you can manually select a display format._


This is exactly what happened, it did a short display test and reverted to SDR. Going to the Settings shows I'm in 4K SDR.


----------



## Mr.G

Halichopter said:


> This is exactly what happened, it did a short display test and reverted to SDR. Going to the Settings shows I'm in 4K SDR.


The Epson 5040 requires the Apple TV 4K to output 24p to achieve HDR...otherwise you get SDR.


----------



## Halichopter

Mr.G said:


> The Epson 5040 requires the Apple TV 4K to output 24p to achieve HDR...otherwise you get SDR.


Well, that did it. So much for Apple's auto format testing. Moreover 24fps is buried down in the 'other formats' section of the menu. I figured that would be for 720p and older formats etc and didn't even go there. I guess if 24fps is good enough for movies it will be good enough for the AppleTV.


----------



## 900HP

*5040 Epson worth purchasing?*

This will be my first decent projector and I want to buy a good one. Initially I was sold on the Optoma UHD65 but the possibilities of rainbows has me concerned. Some also complain of black level. The Sony VPL 45/65's were also on the list but both the Epson 5040 and the Optoma are rated much better picture quality. 

That brings us to the Epson 5040........... great looking images, power lens, lens memory, pretty much a bad-ass at this price point................... and we have power supply issues. 

Would you as owners of this projector recommend it for purchase to someone else after living with it and it's potential issues? 

Room is a dedicated theater room 16.75' x 19.75' and I'd like to keep it under $2500. 

Any input is welcome, thank you.


----------



## misterg51

WynsWrld98 said:


> I've read power supply failures from people with all kinds of expensive power conditioners so I believe your statement to be false.





Halichopter said:


> Well, that did it. So much for Apple's auto format testing. Moreover 24fps is buried down in the 'other formats' section of the menu. I figured that would be for 720p and older formats etc and didn't even go there. I guess if 24fps is good enough for movies it will be good enough for the AppleTV.



Set the Apple TV to 4K SDR, then set Match Content to Match Dynamic Range to On and Match Frame Rate to On. This will make non-HDR and the normal screens look bright enough, and play the content based on signal. Mine shows 4K HDR bt2020 on my movies that are such.


----------



## seplant

900HP said:


> This will be my first decent projector and I want to buy a good one. Initially I was sold on the Optoma UHD65 but the possibilities of rainbows has me concerned. Some also complain of black level. The Sony VPL 45/65's were also on the list but both the Epson 5040 and the Optoma are rated much better picture quality.
> 
> That brings us to the Epson 5040........... great looking images, power lens, lens memory, pretty much a bad-ass at this price point................... and we have power supply issues.
> 
> Would you as owners of this projector recommend it for purchase to someone else after living with it and it's potential issues?
> 
> Room is a dedicated theater room 16.75' x 19.75' and I'd like to keep it under $2500.
> 
> Any input is welcome, thank you.


You won't find a better projector at this price point. Don't let the power supply issue experienced by some owners scare you away. It's not as wide-spread as you might think. This projector has a ton of different settings, and once you get everything dialed in, it will blow you away. Even right out of the box, it is pretty impressive. The upscaling is outstanding. Regular blu-rays look amazing. The 3D is fantastic (just keep the auto iris off to prevent ghosting!), and the HDR is fantastic once properly calibrated. I highly recommend this projector!


----------



## CaseyH71

Can anyone chime in that has the 5040UB and Oppo 203/205 combo with the settings you are running?

I have seen suggestions to leave everything "Auto" or set some things to "Auto" and color space and depth to other modes. Any input is much appreciated!

Thanks, Casey


----------



## Uppsalaing

Halichopter said:


> Uppsalaing,
> 
> I bought a new AppleTV 4K and put it in the HDMI port that I use for my Samsung Ultra HD player which reliably sends HDR to my Epson when I'm using a 4K HDR disc.
> 
> I went through the AppleTV's 'Try HDR' test and I get a black screen until the timer times out and the AppleTV says that perhaps I must change settings on my TV to accommodate HDR. I have the Epson set to Auto. I set the Epson to HDR1 and got the same results. FYI, I'm using a Marantz SR7010 AVR. Just in case the AVR was the issue I directly connected the AppleTV to the Epson and still no HDR.
> 
> Are you sure you are getting HDR to your Epson? If so are there special settings needed for the AppleTV?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Hal


Try setting the Apple TV to SDR, 60hz, 4K... Set Match Framerate to 'on' and Match Range to 'on'... This is the ideal setting in my opinion.



Play a HDR movie from iTunes or Netflix and the signal should switch to HDR, 24hz at 4K automatically once the content plays... You can check by presseing Menu then Info then projector info on the Epson remote...



Let me know if this works for you.


----------



## Uppsalaing

Keith Ferguson said:


> The ATV4K is my first stab at the Apple eco system and I have to say I am not impressed. I have always heard how user friendly it was...not so for me. I will not get into why do I need a Apple login and a separate Itunes login .
> 
> But on topic.....Come on Apple why no Atmos? my roku does it at a fraction of the price...heck my xbox one s has supported it for a YEAR!!! I have hundreds invested in speakers overhead that are dead quiet with my ATV4K.  absurd
> 
> When setup I have no complaints about how it handles the video end. (still needs tweeks for my calibration though)
> 
> I do need to figure out how to customize the menu (if this user friendly device will let me?) but that is a different thread.


Atmos has just been announced for the AppleTV. Should be active once the new OS 12.0 is released. There was some discussion about this on the appleTV thread... Check there for info.

What is it about the menu that you need to customise? You can move icons around by holding them. Also, if you place an app icon on the top row you get content preview on the home screen (don't know what their terminology is).

I'm sure the posters on the Apple TV4K thread can help you with the specifics, but it's the best streamer for my uses and I'd imagine for most people who have Epson projectors (especially HDR and framerate matching when in 4K).. ITunes movies rentals alone makes it worth it (huge library), not to mention the other streaming apps...

I rent loads of movies on iTunes, but will only buy on discs, even though I have a couple of Apple TVs, one for the living room and another for the home cinema ...


----------



## WynsWrld98

900HP said:


> This will be my first decent projector and I want to buy a good one. Initially I was sold on the Optoma UHD65 but the possibilities of rainbows has me concerned. Some also complain of black level. The Sony VPL 45/65's were also on the list but both the Epson 5040 and the Optoma are rated much better picture quality.
> 
> That brings us to the Epson 5040........... great looking images, power lens, lens memory, pretty much a bad-ass at this price point................... and we have power supply issues.
> 
> Would you as owners of this projector recommend it for purchase to someone else after living with it and it's potential issues?
> 
> Room is a dedicated theater room 16.75' x 19.75' and I'd like to keep it under $2500.
> 
> Any input is welcome, thank you.


If you're not in a huge rush I'd wait to see if Epson announces a replacement (e.g., 5050/6050) at CEDIA 9/2018 which likely would have an 18 GB HDMI chipset to get around frustration people go through with incompatibility and buy Linker/etc. to try and work with it (but I believe still only get 8 bit which means banding) and perhaps a redesigned power supply. If you have the time playing a short amount of wait and see may pay off...


----------



## robc1976

seplant said:


> Start with the HCFR thread. That can be a bit intimidating also, but the first post in that thread has some good beginners info under "Useful Links". You don't need to be an expert to get good results. You may not get the same results as a professional calibrator, but if you can make improvements to the grayscale, gamma, and color balance, you may be surprised at just how great an image this projector can throw!


Agree 100%, mine actually turned out better than my calibrator did.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## kartsound

CaseyH71 said:


> Can anyone chime in that has the 5040UB and Oppo 203/205 combo with the settings you are running?
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen suggestions to leave everything "Auto" or set some things to "Auto" and color space and depth to other modes. Any input is much appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Casey




I have the same question. For now I set up a custom mode for a UHD 24Hz resolution, 10-bit color depth, and YCbCr 4:2:0 color space and auto for all others. Looks decent but calibration gurus have not told any specific setting for epson/oppo 205 yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

WynsWrld98 said:


> If you're not in a huge rush I'd wait to see if Epson announces a replacement (e.g., 5050/6050) at CEDIA 9/2018 which likely would have an 18 GB HDMI chipset to get around frustration people go through with incompatibility and buy Linker/etc. to try and work with it (but I believe still only get 8 bit which means banding) and perhaps a redesigned power supply. If you have the time playing a short amount of wait and see may pay off...


Yep, will for sure be getting a newer model if they get a 18gbs Chipset.

I get 8 bit gaming (4:2:0) and 12 bit with uhd but the bigger chipset will open all kinds of new avenues.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

CaseyH71 said:


> Can anyone chime in that has the 5040UB and Oppo 203/205 combo with the settings you are running?
> 
> I have seen suggestions to leave everything "Auto" or set some things to "Auto" and color space and depth to other modes. Any input is much appreciated!
> 
> Thanks, Casey


I have the 203 and just spent a couple weeks, with meter calibrating will pay settings soon butv they will not look as good as if you calibrate to your room.

My room is complete light controlled, no windows, black carpet, black panels, black paint ECT.

I would only possibly use auto bright in ambient room, auto is the way to go inmho.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Keith Ferguson said:


> The ATV4K is my first stab at the Apple eco system and I have to say I am not impressed. I have always heard how user friendly it was...not so for me. I will not get into why do I need a Apple login and a separate Itunes login .
> 
> But on topic.....Come on Apple why no Atmos? my roku does it at a fraction of the price...heck my xbox one s has supported it for a YEAR!!! I have hundreds invested in speakers overhead that are dead quiet with my ATV4K.  absurd
> 
> When setup I have no complaints about how it handles the video end. (still needs tweeks for my calibration though)
> 
> I do need to figure out how to customize the menu (if this user friendly device will let me?) but that is a different thread.


I actually prefer DTS X rather than Atmos, handles the heights and center better.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Uppsalaing said:


> Calibrate SDR first... It's easier and you'll see how good normal blurays can look...


Agree, I started with HDR, still haven't done a SDR lol! 

Was a big learning curve, really is neat to see how one thing effects another ECT.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Halichopter said:


> _
> 
> Quote:
> 
> When you first connect your Apple TV 4K to a 4K television capable of HDR10 or Dolby Vision, you may be prompted to run a short display test for these formats. Follow the onscreen instructions to run the test, and confirm that you have a clear picture. If Apple TV 4K is unable to confirm that your television can display Dolby Vision or HDR10, it will automatically revert back to the mode it was previously using.
> 
> 
> 
> To confirm which video mode your Apple TV 4K is using, go to Settings > Video and Audio. From here, you can manually select a display format._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is exactly what happened, it did a short display test and reverted to SDR. Going to the Settings shows I'm in 4K SDR.




This is very simple. You set the atv to 4K SDR and enable frame rate & range matching. When you play a 4K HDR Netflix show the Apple TV automatically switches the output to 24hz 4K HDR...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Keith Ferguson

Uppsalaing said:


> Try setting the Apple TV to SDR, 60hz, 4K... Set Match Framerate to 'on' and Match Range to 'on'... This is the ideal setting in my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> Play a HDR movie from iTunes or Netflix and the signal should switch to HDR, 24hz at 4K automatically once the content plays... You can check by presseing Menu then Info then projector info on the Epson remote...
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if this works for you.


huge thank you Sir


Sent from my Acer Chromebook R11 (CB5-132T / C738T) using Tapatalk


----------



## shartm

Juiced46 said:


> Anything that is 8 bit HDR is going to have bad banding. Any HDR videos/movies should be viewed at 4K/24 HDR 10-12bit
> 
> As far as the inconsistent performance of the Linker. I have none. My sync ups are fast and I never have to unplug it to make it work. The settings needed are well documented in this thread. Also what firmware are you running? Some FW verisons have slow sync ups. I believe FW 21 is what I am using and its fast, earlier FWs had problems. It does not matter what source I boot up first, if the PJ is on first or not. It always syncs correctly. I literally turn my stuff on and go. No specific order, it just works....I havent touched my Linker, aside from a FW update, since the week I got it which was back in November/December.


This is not true. It all depends on the source and dithering of the picture. Madvr displays HDR in 8 bits with a LESSER banding than in 10 bit!


----------



## CaseyH71

robc1976 said:


> I have the 203 and just spent a couple weeks, with meter calibrating will pay settings soon butv they will not look as good as if you calibrate to your room.
> 
> My room is complete light controlled, no windows, black carpet, black panels, black paint ECT.
> 
> I would only possibly use auto bright in ambient room, auto is the way to go inmho.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Thanks Rob, I am guessing you have the OPPO settings on "auto" is what you mean?

I will be getting a meter to do my own calibrations but need to get my new screen and put some time on the bulb. I must admit it seems intimidating, but I would like to tinker and learn the basics of calibrations (SDR first). With regard to the OPPO settings, I will just leave everything on auto for now if that is what you suggested.

Casey


----------



## CaseyH71

X-Rite meter ordered! Hope I can hang with the big boys. 

Casey


----------



## Lesmor

CaseyH71 said:


> X-Rite meter ordered! Hope I can hang with the big boys.
> 
> Casey


Did you just buy a basic X-Rite model from Amazon or did you pay a premium to a vendor for a profiled meter?
In any case I will be following your calibration journey with interest


----------



## CaseyH71

seplant said:


> Calibrating HDR on Epson 5040/6040 Projectors thread
> 
> X-Rite i1Display Pro - Display Calibration meter





Lesmor said:


> Did you just buy a basic X-Rite model from Amazon or did you pay a premium to a vendor for a profiled meter?
> In any case I will be following your calibration journey with interest



It is this one that seplant has posted several times. It will be a bit before I get to doing any calibrating as my 5040 is fresh off the showroom and I need some hours on the bulb. 

Casey


----------



## Juiced46

shartm said:


> This is not true. It all depends on the source and dithering of the picture. Madvr displays HDR in 8 bits with a LESSER banding than in 10 bit!


If you read my previous replies I was specifically talking about the Xbox.


----------



## Halichopter

misterg51 said:


> Set the Apple TV to 4K SDR, then set Match Content to Match Dynamic Range to On and Match Frame Rate to On. This will make non-HDR and the normal screens look bright enough, and play the content based on signal. Mine shows 4K HDR bt2020 on my movies that are such.


Thanks! That seems to be working fine for me.


----------



## javanpohl

Just got my 5040ub last night. 4K HDR was significantly better than I expected, particularly on the cheap high contrast grey screen (with copious amounts of visible texture and "shimmering?" it has). However I'm coming from a DLP and 3D was a mixed bag. *What tricks have people used to reduce cross-talk?* It was pretty atrocious. Wouldn't mind hanging on to my DLP just for 3D but I would like to tinker with the Epson to get the best 3D image possible.

*Also, there's a dead pixel.* Is that pretty common? I'm not being ridiculous for wanting to send it back for another one for a dead pixel am I?


----------



## javanpohl

seplant said:


> You won't find a better projector at this price point. Don't let the power supply issue experienced by some owners scare you away. It's not as wide-spread as you might think. This projector has a ton of different settings, and once you get everything dialed in, it will blow you away. Even right out of the box, it is pretty impressive. The upscaling is outstanding. Regular blu-rays look amazing. *The 3D is fantastic (just keep the auto iris off to prevent ghosting!)*, and the HDR is fantastic once properly calibrated. I highly recommend this projector!


OK, that might be the first time I've ever gone a single page back in a thread and found a good answer to my random question. Thanks!


----------



## Lithium

javanpohl said:


> *Also, there's a dead pixel.* Is that pretty common? I'm not being ridiculous for wanting to send it back for another one for a dead pixel am I?


I sure would, especially if you are still within the return window of the place you bought it from.


----------



## seplant

javanpohl said:


> OK, that might be the first time I've ever gone a single page back in a thread and found a good answer to my random question. Thanks!


No problem! You also will want to keep 3D Brightness on Low and 3D Depth at 0 or 1 to minimize any crosstalk. Use 3D Dynamic mode and try setting the Gamma to preset 2. This results in the best 3D image in my opinion.


----------



## misterg51

javanpohl said:


> Just got my 5040ub last night. 4K HDR was significantly better than I expected, particularly on the cheap high contrast grey screen (with copious amounts of visible texture and "shimmering?" it has). However I'm coming from a DLP and 3D was a mixed bag. *What tricks have people used to reduce cross-talk?* It was pretty atrocious. Wouldn't mind hanging on to my DLP just for 3D but I would like to tinker with the Epson to get the best 3D image possible.
> 
> *Also, there's a dead pixel.* Is that pretty common? I'm not being ridiculous for wanting to send it back for another one for a dead pixel am I?



Epson glasses and settings in FAQ for 3D works great for me. My first 5040ub had a dead pixel and I returned it immediately to Amazon. You can't fix those according to the Epson tech I talked to on the phone. They said they would send me a refurbished unit, not new. Nope, sent the first back when I got delivery of second. Lamp went out at 1500 hours on eco and Epson sent a free one-time replacement. I now have 3 and fingers crossed it doesn't do the power supply dance. Again, Epson says can't fix the dead pixel :frown:


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys. Got a couple questions for people using the Linker with this projector to get 4K HDR gaming at 60hz. I’ve been using this now for 7-8 months and two things have been a problem since I got it. The first being I can’t get 4K resolution out of my PC and the second being, I can’t get sound when watching directv. My Xbox One X and PS4 Pro work perfectly and I’m able to get 4K HDR gaming, but for some reason with the custom EDID I’ve setup in order to allow 4K HDR Gaming, the PC and Directv issue have arose. 

Now, I’m able to get sound from Directv and 4K out my pc if I change the EDID switch on the side from custom to Sink. That’s great and all but it’s annoying to have to get up and change it back and forth or think I have it on custom when playing my Xbox but it’s actually on sink and I’m not getting 4K HDR. Can anyone else who owns a Linker and has a similar setup to mine, please share the settings they use in order to get their system working without having to change the EDID switch? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. Got a couple questions for people using the Linker with this projector to get 4K HDR gaming at 60hz. I’ve been using this now for 7-8 months and two things have been a problem since I got it. The first being I can’t get 4K resolution out of my PC and the second being, I can’t get sound when watching directv. My Xbox One X and PS4 Pro work perfectly and I’m able to get 4K HDR gaming, but for some reason with the custom EDID I’ve setup in order to allow 4K HDR Gaming, the PC and Directv issue have arose.
> 
> Now, I’m able to get sound from Directv and 4K out my pc if I change the EDID switch on the side from custom to Sink. That’s great and all but it’s annoying to have to get up and change it back and forth or think I have it on custom when playing my Xbox but it’s actually on sink and I’m not getting 4K HDR. Can anyone else who owns a Linker and has a similar setup to mine, please share the settings they use in order to get their system working without having to change the EDID switch? Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I just have it set to sink at all times and it autodetects the capabilities of the sink I am using and outputs the proper 4K HDR signal to the 5040 regardless of the sink device. I tried this with multiple 4K hdr sources including my laptop, fire tv 4K, Sony udp, Xbox one x, and Apple TV 4K and the Linker works perfectly every time. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just have it set to sink at all times and it autodetects the capabilities of the sink I am using and outputs the proper 4K HDR signal to the 5040 regardless of the sink device. I tried this with multiple 4K hdr sources including my laptop, fire tv 4K, Sony udp, Xbox one x, and Apple TV 4K and the Linker works perfectly every time.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I concur with OrcusVaruna. I experimented with different configs and setting it to sink all times is the least troublesome, IMHO. 

Go Caps...Stanley Cup winner...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## JewDaddy

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just have it set to sink at all times and it autodetects the capabilities of the sink I am using and outputs the proper 4K HDR signal to the 5040 regardless of the sink device. I tried this with multiple 4K hdr sources including my laptop, fire tv 4K, Sony udp, Xbox one x, and Apple TV 4K and the Linker works perfectly every time.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thanks for the quick response. The problem with that is when I set it to sink, I no longer get all the green checkmarks for my Xbox One X. Not sure what setting I have wrong....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just have it set to sink at all times and it autodetects the capabilities of the sink I am using and outputs the proper 4K HDR signal to the 5040 regardless of the sink device. I tried this with multiple 4K hdr sources including my laptop, fire tv 4K, Sony udp, Xbox one x, and Apple TV 4K and the Linker works perfectly every time.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Can you share your settings and firmware so I can just duplicate and see if the sink option works the way you described?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JewDaddy said:


> Can you share your settings and firmware so I can just duplicate and see if the sink option works the way you described?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Everything is stock settings that came with the Linker except I locked the input on hdmi 1 and set it to sink. I purchased it brand new direct from hd fury back in March and have never hooked it up to my computer to mess with settings or check the firmware. The unit syncs to the signal sent from my hdmi switch in less then 10 seconds at the best settings allowed by the 5040 ube wireless transmitter every time. Maybe try hard resetting it and wiping all your custom settings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## javanpohl

After adjusting the 3D settings, I have to agree: *yeah, 3D does look pretty solid on the Epson*. I was able to reduce crosstalk/ghosting to near un-noticeable levels. In some ways, it may be better than with my DLP Optoma 5300. There were quite a few movies with the Optoma where the colors seemed off or the image was too dark. Live action movies often seemed to have an "off" look to them--surfaces often had a weird shimmer. However, something that didn't quite occur to me though is that the pixel structure is far more noticeable on the Epson in 3D. I arranged my seating distance to be as close as possible to my 106" screen, close enough to where I could juuuust start to make out the pixels on the Optoma (I'm not sure why but it was always easier to see the pixels on 3D; hardly ever happened with 2D.) Much easier to see the pixels and jagged lines on the Epson. I did also turn down sharpness all the way in one of the settings but it seems like there are multiple settings to change sharpness, so maybe I haven't gotten to them all. 

Oh, on the note of 3D, I got the 3ACTIVE 3D glasses and they *might be the most uncomfortable 3D glasses I've ever owned*. Maybe they'll loosen up but they squeeze an awful lot around the sides of the head. It became bothersome after just a few minutes of watching. I did also get the XPAND glasses. Strangely haven't yet gotten them to connect (never got them fully charged though), but they did seem a lot more comfortable. 

Watched episodes of Game of Thrones (1080p) and Planet Earth II (UHD) on my Zappiti player last night. Looked incredible... *except for the occasional atrocious banding*. Looking back through the thread I see that an 8 bit signal might be to blame? I did verify that's what the projector was receiving. Now I have to figure out if it's the Zappiti, the receiver, or an HDMI splitter that's causing that to happen. After an asinine amount of trouble-shooting (does the HDMI 2 input not accept a 4K signal?) I finally got my blu-ray player to send a 4K signal to the projector and it was sending a 12 bit signal. Didn't have time to check to see if the banding was still present though.

Last thing... *am I being dense or is updating the software a major PITA?* I found an article online and instructions (using a USB thumbdrive) but never found the firmware update files on the Epson site.


----------



## JewDaddy

OrcusVaruna said:


> Everything is stock settings that came with the Linker except I locked the input on hdmi 1 and set it to sink. I purchased it brand new direct from hd fury back in March and have never hooked it up to my computer to mess with settings or check the firmware. The unit syncs to the signal sent from my hdmi switch in less then 10 seconds at the best settings allowed by the 5040 ube wireless transmitter every time. Maybe try hard resetting it and wiping all your custom settings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Hmmmmmm. I’ll give that a try. Are you getting all the green check marks on your X1X showing that you get 4K HDR Gaming at 60hz? I thought the whole point of the Linker is to trick the Xbox and PlayStation into thinking the Epson supports 4K HDR at 60hz. Without setting up custom EDID’s, the Linker won’t be able to make that happen. Again, that was the impression I was under. When I first got the Linker I saw different posts from members such as Juiced, who had to setup custom EDID presets. Just want to make sure I’m understanding this whole thing correctly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JewDaddy said:


> Hmmmmmm. I’ll give that a try. Are you getting all the green check marks on your X1X showing that you get 4K HDR Gaming at 60hz? I thought the whole point of the Linker is to trick the Xbox and PlayStation into thinking the Epson supports 4K HDR at 60hz. Without setting up custom EDID’s, the Linker won’t be able to make that happen. Again, that was the impression I was under. When I first got the Linker I saw different posts from members such as Juiced, who had to setup custom EDID presets. Just want to make sure I’m understanding this whole thing correctly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Yes I am getting hdr at 60hz just fine. Maybe mine came with an updated firmware version that doesn’t require special settings but all I know is the second I hop into a game it detects hdr and flips to 4K 8bit hdr at 60 hz.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes I am getting hdr at 60hz just fine. Maybe mine came with an updated firmware version that doesn’t require special settings but all I know is the second I hop into a game it detects hdr and flips to 4K 8bit hdr at 60 hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Oh I see. You’re using the wireless hdmi which is probably why your Linker settings are different than most. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JewDaddy said:


> Oh I see. You’re using the wireless hdmi which is probably why your Linker settings are different than most.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I’m not sure how the wireless transmitter would change anything it’s rated for the same resolutions and range as the hdmi ports on the 5040 itself. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

OrcusVaruna said:


> I’m not sure how the wireless transmitter would change anything it’s rated for the same resolutions and range as the hdmi ports on the 5040 itself.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




That’s the only thing I can think of. What happens if you go into the actual video settings on your one x and see if all the check marks are green? I saw that when you play a game such as destiny, it shows 4K HDR. I’m curios though about what your 4K details show in the Xbox menu. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JewDaddy said:


> That’s the only thing I can think of. What happens if you go into the actual video settings on your one x and see if all the check marks are green? I saw that when you play a game such as destiny, it shows 4K HDR. I’m curios though about what your 4K details show in the Xbox menu.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

OrcusVaruna said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thanks! I’m just really scratching my head on this because my Linker is acting different than yours. Most of the people who were posting on here when the Linker was first getting used showed that they used custom EDID’s. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JewDaddy said:


> Thanks! I’m just really scratching my head on this because my Linker is acting different than yours. Most of the people who were posting on here when the Linker was first getting used showed that they used custom EDID’s.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I’d just try updating the firmware and factory reset it. Maybe with the more recent updates it just does it’s thing. If that doesn’t work maybe try posting for help in the main Linker thread 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gakbw

seplant said:


> swyda038 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, just had another power fail with the projector. This one lasted just over a year. The first power fail was after about 45 days of use and I received a new one from Crutchfield (within their 60day warranty period). This time, this replacement will be a re-furbished from Epson and should be here tomorrow. How have the refurbished ones been for people? Any issues? Will they have the most up to date firmware?
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Some refurbs have had issues. My first refurb had a dust blob (which resulted in a fuzzy red spot on the lower left of my screen). The replacement for that unit had some color uniformity issues, but I honestly couldn't see any issues in normal viewing, so I kept that one, and it has been performing well for the past six months or so. I think mine had the latest firmware at the time.
> 
> Just make sure to thoroughly check performance in all modes before accepting a refurbished unit. Epson is really good about replacing defective units right away. I had taken photos of the dust blob issue I had to show them the issue, but they took my word for it and shipped me another unit right away.
Click to expand...

Hi,
I had the same issue while trying to update latest V12 firmware encountered projector power issue and projector not turned on! I contacted EPSON they sent replacement one but I found serial number printed white color small Sticker shows model number 6040UB but projector Inbuilt main sticker shows EPSON 4040UB, I spoke to customer care again they sent replacement projector and I received it today, lamp hours shows zero! And my question is how would we know this is brand new projector or refurbished one? And we can always reset hours to zero correct! So any clue how to find projector new or refurbished one? Thanks in advance.


----------



## R5ismyname

Anybody run into this? It comes and go as of lately. Projector is over a year old, almost 4,000 hours on the bulb.


----------



## n4xxr76

R5ismyname said:


> Anybody run into this? It comes and go as of lately. Projector is over a year old, almost 4,000 hours on the bulb.




No picture. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ggraef

R5ismyname said:


> Anybody run into this? It comes and go as of lately. Projector is over a year old, almost 4,000 hours on the bulb.


I had this same issue on a 5030UB. Best guess is that it was a loose connection on the ribbon cable carrying the red signal to the red lcd chip. Mine was temperature sensitive, e,g. it got better as the projector warmed up. Over a few months it became permanent. I have heard of people reflowing the soldier on the cable, but that is probably more likely to cause additional issues if you aren't really experienced with it. The 5040 was a 2-year warranty and Epson is very good with it. If you are in this time, definitely talk to Epson


----------



## R5ismyname

No picture. /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]


----------



## MassiveG

I had to transition from a projector to an OLED for space reasons, so I sold my Epson 5040ub on eBay.

It was in mint condition, used with a UPS, watched mostly on ECO mode and worked beautifully. I triple checked before I sent it out and it worked just as it always had.










After receiving it, the buyer sent me this picture saying it had a red tint in the bottom left-hand corner. It could have been damaged during shipping, but I'm wondering if any of you have experienced this as a result of faulty HDMI or incorrect settings? I can't find any results of this issue.


----------



## longbow

I have the 5040 on the ceiling and projecting onto the Stewart StudioTek 130. I am getting a lower edge small keystone. also the lower left side seems to tilt down. The upper edge seems to be right on. I am basically straight on tho the screen 9 1/2" away. I cannot get things to square up and I cannot find the Keystone function. The guide says the two side buttons on the projector itself but they don't seem to adjust keystone. I have attached a screen shot.

Thanks for any help!


----------



## jwhn

longbow said:


> I have the 5040 on the ceiling and projecting onto the Stewart StudioTek 130. I am getting a lower edge small keystone. also the lower left side seems to tilt down. The upper edge seems to be right on. I am basically straight on tho the screen 9 1/2" away. I cannot get things to square up and I cannot find the Keystone function. The guide says the two side buttons on the projector itself but they don't seem to adjust keystone. I have attached a screen shot.
> 
> Thanks for any help!


This video should help you. 




I would not buy such a nice screen and then use the keystone function. It should generally be avoided.


----------



## longbow

Thanks for that Youtube link. It, indeed, it was the yaw. I have it virtually perfect now. Geometry was not my favorite topic in school!

Watching Saving Private Ryan in 4k now. I'll start dialing it in tomorrow.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

MassiveG said:


> I had to transition from a projector to an OLED for space reasons, so I sold my Epson 5040ub on eBay.
> 
> 
> 
> It was in mint condition, used with a UPS, watched mostly on ECO mode and worked beautifully. I triple checked before I sent it out and it worked just as it always had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After receiving it, the buyer sent me this picture saying it had a red tint in the bottom left-hand corner. It could have been damaged during shipping, but I'm wondering if any of you have experienced this as a result of faulty HDMI or incorrect settings? I can't find any results of this issue.




Yes I have experienced video artifacts such as that with hdmi cables. After going through multiple different amazon, monoprice, and cable matters hdmis I went to Best Buy and lit $100 on fire for a black platinum monster cable and the issue went away...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## achanonier

MassiveG said:


> I had to transition from a projector to an OLED for space reasons, so I sold my Epson 5040ub on eBay.
> 
> It was in mint condition, used with a UPS, watched mostly on ECO mode and worked beautifully. I triple checked before I sent it out and it worked just as it always had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After receiving it, the buyer sent me this picture saying it had a red tint in the bottom left-hand corner. It could have been damaged during shipping, but I'm wondering if any of you have experienced this as a result of faulty HDMI or incorrect settings? I can't find any results of this issue.


What about internal patterns ?
If they show the same tinit then the PJ might have beend damaged if no, check other sources and cables.


----------



## shazza6887

Can anyone tell me what the best settings for Nvidia Shield using Kodi would be? Used for 1080p movies mostly but starting to get some 4k action. I intend to use either Dave Harpers 4k settings or Olderts, do i have to change the settings in the Nvdia Shield settings everytime i want to watch a 4k movie? 



Ps is there a link for the Latest settings from Dave Harper etc?


Cheers


----------



## achanonier

shazza6887 said:


> Can anyone tell me what the best settings for Nvidia Shield using Kodi would be? Used for 1080p movies mostly but starting to get some 4k action. I intend to use either Dave Harpers 4k settings or Olderts, do i have to change the settings in the Nvdia Shield settings everytime i want to watch a 4k movie?
> 
> 
> 
> Ps is there a link for the Latest settings from Dave Harper etc?
> 
> 
> Cheers


No just go 4k 23.9xxhz YUV Rec2020.
Works for 1080p and 4kHDR


----------



## longbow

Now that my 5040 is mounted and properly positioned it is time to get the settings more dialed in. Can someone point me to a post with settings that are a good starting point for improving the default out of the box settings?

Thanks!


----------



## shazza6887

Another thing i wanted to know, does anyone here use the lens memory function? After a few switches between 16:9 and 2:40:1 it always seems to go off screen and i have to re allign?


----------



## Uppsalaing

longbow said:


> Now that my 5040 is mounted and properly positioned it is time to get the settings more dialed in. Can someone point me to a post with settings that are a good starting point for improving the default out of the box settings?
> 
> Thanks!


*For SDR:*

The default settings are good for SDR (Natural). Just make sure you turn off Frame Interpolation and auto iris. Set the iris to whatever gives you decent blacks given your screen size.

If you have a calibration disc you can dial in your blacklevel/brightness and your contrast. I'd leave the colours alone.

To improve on this, you probably need to get the projctor calibrated. Either yourselve by getting a metre and software, or having a professional do it. A professional should also be able to do it for HDR.

*For HDR:*

The so called _HarperVision_ settings on this thread can be decent for HDR. Personally, I prefer to set it on Cinema and just adjust the gamma by +1 to get enough brightness.

Again, HDR is better calibrated using a metre and software either by yourself or a professional.


----------



## evilaviator

shazza6887 said:


> Another thing i wanted to know, does anyone here use the lens memory function? After a few switches between 16:9 and 2:40:1 it always seems to go off screen and i have to re allign?


I have the same issue. I think this is a common problem with the projector.


----------



## Uppsalaing

shazza6887 said:


> Another thing i wanted to know, does anyone here use the lens memory function? After a few switches between 16:9 and 2:40:1 it always seems to go off screen and i have to re allign?


For your lens position have you tried making the _last_ 5 (minimum) movements only in one direction? I think you might still be able to make small movements (steps) as long as you don't change direction in the last 5 movements.
I think this was covered in the past month or two on this thread.


Someone has posted diagrams as well, but I can't find it.


----------



## seplant

shazza6887 said:


> Another thing i wanted to know, does anyone here use the lens memory function? After a few switches between 16:9 and 2:40:1 it always seems to go off screen and i have to re allign?


See post 4180 in this thread.


----------



## gene4ht

shazza6887 said:


> Another thing i wanted to know, does anyone here use the lens memory function? After a few switches between 16:9 and 2:40:1 it always seems to go off screen and i have to re allign?





evilaviator said:


> I have the same issue. I think this is a common problem with the projector.





Uppsalaing said:


> For your lens position have you tried making the _last_ 5 (minimum) movements only in one direction? I think you might still be able to make small movements (steps) as long as you don't change direction in the last 5 movements.
> I think this was covered in the past month or two on this thread.
> 
> 
> Someone has posted diagrams as well, but I can't find it.





seplant said:


> See post 4180 in this thread.


 @*shepdog* , at regularly occurring intervals, new users/owners ask the same common questions relative to usage, functions, accessories, etc. It would be extremely helpful and beneficial to have an index in the first post that would direct owners directly to the posts that answers these questions. Some of the reoccurring questions that come to mind would be...there are more and others of course could be added.

- the lens memory function is not accurate...does not return to the position(s) that I saved.
- what type of mount...ceiling, wall, or shelf do owners recommend
- what brand/type of 3D glasses work best with this projector
- where can I find the lastest HarperVision or Oledert settings


----------



## thelonghop

Looking for screen advice.

I almost have my HT system planned out, to include the 5040UB. The only thing I'm unsure about is the screen. I plan to do CIH and the largest I can fit is 120Wx50H 130Diag. My throw distance is about 13.5ft. My theater room is like 99% light controlled. I mainly intend to watch movie/tv with the lights off, but may occasionally have the lights on. I care more about getting a better picture in movies/tv, than if the picture is a little washed out with the lights on. Budget is about $1000-1500 for the screen.

So with that in mind, does anyone have screen manufacturer, material, and gain recommendations?

Thanks!


----------



## jwhn

thelonghop said:


> Looking for screen advice.
> 
> I almost have my HT system planned out, to include the 5040UB. The only thing I'm unsure about is the screen. I plan to do CIH and the largest I can fit is 120Wx50H 130Diag. My throw distance is about 13.5ft. My theater room is like 99% light controlled. I mainly intend to watch movie/tv with the lights off, but may occasionally have the lights on. I care more about getting a better picture in movies/tv, than if the picture is a little washed out with the lights on. Budget is about $1000-1500 for the screen.
> 
> So with that in mind, does anyone have screen manufacturer, material, and gain recommendations?
> 
> Thanks!


There is a whole section in this forum dedicated to screens. You will probably get the best responses there.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/


----------



## thelonghop

jwhn said:


> There is a whole section in this forum dedicated to screens. You will probably get the best responses there.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/


Thanks. I thought maybe there was a particular screen that matched well with this projector.


----------



## jwhn

thelonghop said:


> Thanks. I thought maybe there was a particular screen that matched well with this projector.


I think selecting the right screen probably has more to do with your room environment vs. the projector but you can mention that you are using the 5040UB and the experts there can guide you. Good luck.


----------



## thelonghop

jwhn said:


> I think selecting the right screen probably has more to do with your room environment vs. the projector but you can mention that you are using the 5040UB and the experts there can guide you. Good luck.


I'm new to projectors, but I thought maybe screens that produced better black might pair well with a projector that isn't that great at producing blacks. Something along those lines, but that's just my thought.


----------



## sddp

*mCable?*

I met the owner of mCable while at E3 convention and wanted to see if anyone here is using mcable Cinema edition on their Epson?

I have the Darbee, but it will NOT work when using the 4K mode. mCable rep mentioned that their technology is WAY better than the Darbeevision DVP-5000S.

But wanted to see if anyone here has used the mCable and if its worth the $130?

https://www.marseilleinc.com/cinema-edition


----------



## Azekecse

thelonghop said:


> I'm new to projectors, but I thought maybe screens that produced better black might pair well with a projector that isn't that great at producing blacks. Something along those lines, but that's just my thought.


Well I give you my 2 cents for FWIW. I have the 120" Screen Elite Lunette 2 Curved 16:9 with my 6040UB, and it's right below your budget. I greatly enjoy it, works well in my HT room that is light controlled...Projector ~ 14.5 feet away from the screen, seating position @ ~10.5ft. Hope this helps and good luck.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## slobdogg

*No Dolby Vision, but should that affect 4k?*

Setup is Epson 5040UB, Denon AVR X2300, and Philips 7502/F7 UHD Player.

When I use 4k discs encoded with Dolby Vision, my disc player is outputting only 1080p w/ HDR. Has anyone experienced this problem? I understand this projector cannot accept DV (even though my receiver does), but shouldn't my disc player still output a 4k signal? I asked around on the disc's forum posting and this issue is not prevalent. 

Normal HDR 4k movies work fine. 

For example: Revenant is 4k/HDR and disc player outputs 4k/HDR
Gladiator is 4k/Dolby Vision and disc player outputs 1080p/HDR.

The image attached is from Saving Private Ryan's 4k disc, encoded with Dolby Vision.


----------



## thelonghop

Azekecse said:


> Well I give you my 2 cents for FWIW. I have the 120" Screen Elite Lunette 2 Curved 16:9 with my 6040UB, and it's right below your budget. I greatly enjoy it, works well in my HT room that is light controlled...Projector ~ 14.5 feet away from the screen, seating position @ ~10.5ft. Hope this helps and good luck.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Will I need a curved screen? At 120Wx50H 130Diag with 13.5 ft throw distance would I have image distortion or is that only if using an anamorphic lens?


----------



## jnation

MassiveG said:


> I had to transition from a projector to an OLED for space reasons, so I sold my Epson 5040ub on eBay.
> 
> It was in mint condition, used with a UPS, watched mostly on ECO mode and worked beautifully. I triple checked before I sent it out and it worked just as it always had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After receiving it, the buyer sent me this picture saying it had a red tint in the bottom left-hand corner. It could have been damaged during shipping, but I'm wondering if any of you have experienced this as a result of faulty HDMI or incorrect settings? I can't find any results of this issue.


This type of anomaly might be caused by the projector having been handled roughly/dropped in transit resulting in one of the internal lenses shifting in its seating. If this is the case then it might be fixed by re-seating the shifted lens but you would have to open up the projector to do so and some further disassembly may be required to access the affected lens. I and others suffered from a consistent colored magenta bar appearing in an earlier Epson projector and it was due to a lens gradually sliding in its guides as opposed to rough handling that may have caused the issue in this case.


This is the old thread that covered the issue in detail in case its of any use
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...n-8100-replaced-bulb-now-pink-blue-bands.html


----------



## Azekecse

thelonghop said:


> Will I need a curved screen? At 120Wx50H 130Diag with 13.5 ft throw distance would I have image distortion or is that only if using an anamorphic lens?


I do not have anamorphic lens for this screen, a good lens cost more than the projector. The screen is geometrically designed where you don't need a special lens, and there is no pincushion effect. It's not for everyone, but I took a chance and it was worth it for me at its price point. I know another poster has it with their Epson and I believe that they liked it as well...If I could afford a Stewart I would, but this is better than either of the 120" screens I previously owned, once you dial it in. I use the lens memory to dial in each peripheral device. 

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## NetViper

thelonghop said:


> Thanks. I thought maybe there was a particular screen that matched well with this projector.


I have a 135” silverticket and it looks great. White screen, light controlled room.


----------



## descalabro

MassiveG said:


> I had to transition from a projector to an OLED for space reasons, so I sold my Epson 5040ub on eBay.
> 
> It was in mint condition, used with a UPS, watched mostly on ECO mode and worked beautifully. I triple checked before I sent it out and it worked just as it always had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After receiving it, the buyer sent me this picture saying it had a red tint in the bottom left-hand corner. It could have been damaged during shipping, but I'm wondering if any of you have experienced this as a result of faulty HDMI or incorrect settings? I can't find any results of this issue.


The reply by @jnation is the only which seems right to me: this is definitely an optical issue. One of the mirrors/lenses inside is either tilted or vertically misaligned; most likely tilted.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

thelonghop said:


> Looking for screen advice.
> 
> 
> 
> I almost have my HT system planned out, to include the 5040UB. The only thing I'm unsure about is the screen. I plan to do CIH and the largest I can fit is 120Wx50H 130Diag. My throw distance is about 13.5ft. My theater room is like 99% light controlled. I mainly intend to watch movie/tv with the lights off, but may occasionally have the lights on. I care more about getting a better picture in movies/tv, than if the picture is a little washed out with the lights on. Budget is about $1000-1500 for the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> So with that in mind, does anyone have screen manufacturer, material, and gain recommendations?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




In that price range I can’t recommend the elite cinegrey 3D enough. Has basically no hotspotting and does wonders for HDR if you are interested in maximizing the units hdr capabilities. Also for an alr material it is quite neutral and easy to calibrate for. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

thelonghop said:


> I'm new to projectors, but I thought maybe screens that produced better black might pair well with a projector that isn't that great at producing blacks.


That starement is frequently made (even by some screen manufacturers) but is not strictly correct. Screens such as ALR can greatly improve the contrast (and hence the black level), if the dominating factor is the room / ambient light. They don't help if the projector itself is the limiting factor.


----------



## Dominic Chan

OrcusVaruna said:


> In that price range I can’t recommend the elite cinegrey 3D enough. Has basically no hotspotting and does wonders for HDR if you are interested in maximizing the units hdr capabilities.


For some reason my Cinegrey 3D looks darker than my matte white screen even at the sweet spot, in spite of the rated gain. I contacted Elite regarding this and they said its normal. It does wonders in cutting down the ambient light, however.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dominic Chan said:


> For some reason my Cinegrey 3D looks darker than my matte white screen even at the sweet spot, in spite of the rated gain. I contacted Elite regarding this and they said its normal. It does wonders in cutting down the ambient light, however.




I had called elite when I received my screen as well and the material tech I spoke with said it had to do with a combination of the material and the way our vision works. To prove his point he had me download a light meter app and (like he said it would) the Cinegrey 3D reflected back about 10% more light then my silver ticket matte white. The basic premise he explained was that elite designs their alr materials to avoid sparkles and the way our vision perceives black to be darker then it is in the presence of the increased white brightness produced by the high gain. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

OrcusVaruna said:


> I had called elite when I received my screen as well and the material tech I spoke with said it had to do with a combination of the material and the way our vision works. To prove his point he had me download a light meter app and (like he said it would) the Cinegrey 3D reflected back about 10% more light then my silver ticket matte white. The basic premise he explained was that elite designs their alr materials to avoid sparkles and the way our vision perceives black to be darker then it is in the presence of the increased white brightness produced by the high gain.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


He gave me a similar explanation but I don't really follow it. The matte screen has zero sparkles; the 3D has some.
What matters ultimately is our vision - for HDR I want the highlights to _look_ brighter, not just measure brighter.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dominic Chan said:


> He gave me a similar explanation but I don't really follow it. The matte screen has zero sparkles; the 3D has some.
> 
> What matters ultimately is our vision - for HDR I want the highlights to _look_ brighter, not just measure brighter.




And that’s the conundrum because what makes for the best hdr image is driving total contrast and by using the matte white screen your loosing some perceived contrast in the image but boosting perceived image brightness. In the end now that I am dabbling I’m properly calibrating the projector with a meter I can get a noticeably better hdr image on the Cinegrey 3D vs the matte white material. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jwhn

OrcusVaruna said:


> And that’s the conundrum because what makes for the best hdr image is driving total contrast and by using the matte white screen your loosing some perceived contrast in the image but boosting perceived image brightness. In the end now that I am dabbling I’m properly calibrating the projector with a meter I can get a noticeably better hdr image on the Cinegrey 3D vs the matte white material.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Are you able to swap out the screen material to compare? When I first got the projector I put up a split screen for a few days that was half white and half Cinegrey. How are you comparing the two?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jwhn said:


> Are you able to swap out the screen material to compare? When I first got the projector I put up a split screen for a few days that was half white and half Cinegrey. How are you comparing the two?




I assembled my other screen to compare and was able to rig it up on two chairs so I could calibrate for both while easily being able to switch between the two. Calibrating with the x-rite I prefer the image I can get out of the Cinegrey especially for HDR. For SDR the image is very close (maybe because sdr is WAY easier to do then HDR lol) but I still prefer the Cinegrey as my room isn’t a theater so the Cinegrey makes blacks appear much darker. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

jwhn said:


> Are you able to swap out the screen material to compare? When I first got the projector I put up a split screen for a few days that was half white and half Cinegrey. How are you comparing the two?


Whats your take on the Cinegrey?


----------



## jwhn

Dominic Chan said:


> Whats your take on the Cinegrey?


I tried it when I first got the projector so that was before we figured out the HDR calibration etc. 

But my take at that time was:

1. If there is a lot of ambient light neither screen looked very good.
2. With some ambient light the Cinegrey clearly looked better.
3. And the Cinegrey blacks were distinctly better. When looking side-by-side the white screen blacks looked like more of a dark grey vs. black.
4. But in a dark room the Cinegrey picture looked duller, especially for HDR (again, before I did the calibration). 

I had a difficult time deciding but in the end went with the white given I have very good light control. It would be interesting to do a HDR calibration using the Cinegrey but I don't have the screen anymore.


----------



## inspector

MassiveG said:


> I had to transition from a projector to an OLED for space reasons, so I sold my Epson 5040ub on eBay.
> 
> It was in mint condition, used with a UPS, watched mostly on ECO mode and worked beautifully. I triple checked before I sent it out and it worked just as it always had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After receiving it, the buyer sent me this picture saying it had a red tint in the bottom left-hand corner. It could have been damaged during shipping, but I'm wondering if any of you have experienced this as a result of faulty HDMI or incorrect settings? I can't find any results of this issue.



I had an Epson 9500 UB before I picked up my 6040. It started showing ever so slightly a pink/green hue all over the picture, only visible on white scenes.


Just before I sold it, it started getting a pink bottom border just as yours shows. My remedy was to zoom in slightly to put that pink out of the picture. 


One of the causes was probably the PJ being hung upside down for 8 years and with gravity doing its job, was pulling down the plates (not sure what they are called) which was causing the pink on the bottom. The remedy was to open up the PJ and snap the plates back into position.


It was happening to the Epson 8500 and with a search might find the thread on here or over at HTF.


----------



## descalabro

inspector said:


> I had an Epson 9500 UB before I picked up my 6040. It started showing ever so slightly a pink/green hue all over the picture, only visible on white scenes.
> 
> 
> Just before I sold it, it started getting a pink bottom border just as yours shows. My remedy was to zoom in slightly to put that pink out of the picture.
> 
> 
> One of the causes was probably the PJ being hung upside down for 8 years and with gravity doing its job, was pulling down the plates (not sure what they are called) which was causing the pink on the bottom. The remedy was to open up the PJ and snap the plates back into position.
> 
> 
> It was happening to the Epson 8500 and with a search might find the thread on here or over at HTF.


I made a 



showing how to fix the pink/green issue, but this magenta bar on the bottom, although it's the same kind of problem, should be a bit harder to fix, I think.


----------



## DEN7ER

Finally treated myself to the 5040UBE, absolutely cant wait for it to arrive. I am a bit worried about the power failure issues ive read about on this form but my fingers are firmly crossed i get a good one. My question is; is there (after all this time & nearly 500 pages in THIS thread alone) a general consensus on the most impressive picture settings? oledert, harper? i'm not going for professional calibrations or using the disney disc - just want the consensus "best" for getting this beast to shine right out of the box. any help or suggestions would be MUCH appreciated. 



also using the Panasonic-900 4k player.  4k Sony receiver (DN1080)


----------



## Azekecse

Hello DEN7ER,

I dropped a PDF file with the settings, not sure if this is the latest, just remember these are primarily baseline settings. You will need to customize according to your environment, i.e. screen, lighting, etc..

Hope this helps and Congratulations, I really enjoy my 6040UB projector. I watch it almost everyday. 

I wouldn't concern myself with the power supply issue, I think the majority of Epson 5040/6040 owners are fine, they just don't post until something happens. Just Enjoy!!!

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## DEN7ER

Azekecse said:


> Hello DEN7ER,
> 
> I dropped a PDF file with the settings, not sure if this is the latest, just remember these are primarily baseline settings. You will need to customize according to your environment, i.e. screen, lighting, etc..
> 
> Hope this helps and Congratulations, I really enjoy my 6040UB projector. I watch it almost everyday.
> 
> I wouldn't concern myself with the power supply issue, I think the majority of Epson 5040/6040 owners are fine, they just don't post until something happens. Just Enjoy!!!
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Azeke, 



*THANK YOU!! 
*

Exactly the kind of thing i was looking for, simple and concise! good to know about the power - i'll assume the thing should be fine. 

Upgrading from my old trusty Home Cinema 8700UB, which i really enjoyed. everything i've read suggests it's more than worth the upgrade.


----------



## WynsWrld98

DEN7ER said:


> Azeke,
> 
> 
> 
> *THANK YOU!!
> *
> 
> Exactly the kind of thing i was looking for, simple and concise! good to know about the power - i'll assume the thing should be fine.
> 
> Upgrading from my old trusty Home Cinema 8700UB, which i really enjoyed. everything i've read suggests it's more than worth the upgrade.


So Harpervision and Oledurt are for HDR source material, right? For non-HDR I recommend starting with Natural mode and tweak as desired.


----------



## carp

Woah... Visual Apex 2299.00 right now for the 5040.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DEN7ER said:


> Finally treated myself to the 5040UBE, absolutely cant wait for it to arrive. I am a bit worried about the power failure issues ive read about on this form but my fingers are firmly crossed i get a good one. My question is; is there (after all this time & nearly 500 pages in THIS thread alone) a general consensus on the most impressive picture settings? oledert, harper? i'm not going for professional calibrations or using the disney disc - just want the consensus "best" for getting this beast to shine right out of the box. any help or suggestions would be MUCH appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> also using the Panasonic-900 4k player.  4k Sony receiver (DN1080)



Having been through 3 of them at this point I find there is significant variation between the individual units I have had but with that said Dave Harpers SDR settings are consistently pretty good with just some slight tweaking to brightness and contrast as for HDR that argument is one that has been raging for the last 500 pages and I will no longer recommend settings since it just causes arguments lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uppsalaing

DEN7ER said:


> Finally treated myself to the 5040UBE, absolutely cant wait for it to arrive. I am a bit worried about the power failure issues ive read about on this form but my fingers are firmly crossed i get a good one. My question is; is there (after all this time & nearly 500 pages in THIS thread alone) a general consensus on the most impressive picture settings? oledert, harper? i'm not going for professional calibrations or using the disney disc - just want the consensus "best" for getting this beast to shine right out of the box. any help or suggestions would be MUCH appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> also using the Panasonic-900 4k player.  4k Sony receiver (DN1080)


For SDR content... Use Natural mode and turn off Frame Interploration. It will be close to a calibrated image. You could adjust the brightness and contrast slightly depending on your screen, but that is hard to get right without at least a test disc. Don't worry, it won't be far off.



I would avoid changing the colours for SDR without having a colourmetre. It is not something that can be done by eye and the Epsons tend to be close enough to a calibrated image that there shouldn't be any obviously wrong colour shift.


For SDR the Epson is excellent out of the box... Enjoy!


----------



## DEN7ER

Uppsalaing said:


> For SDR content... Use Natural mode and turn off Frame Interploration. It will be close to a calibrated image. You could adjust the brightness and contrast slightly depending on your screen, but that is hard to get right without at least a test disc. Don't worry, it won't be far off.
> 
> 
> 
> I would avoid changing the colours for SDR without having a colourmetre. It is not something that can be done by eye and the Epsons tend to be close enough to a calibrated image that there shouldn't be any obviously wrong colour shift.
> 
> 
> For SDR the Epson is excellent out of the box... Enjoy!





interesting, good to know! thanks man 



i dont want to tinker too much to have to re-adjust for each type of media format but a good catch-all is what im going for. the gamma, saturation and brightness usually get me where i want to be. The HDR stuff is gonna be the biggest headache/second-guessing , with all of the info from this thread. haha


----------



## Uppsalaing

DEN7ER said:


> interesting, good to know! thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> i dont want to tinker too much to have to re-adjust for each type of media format but a good catch-all is what im going for. the gamma, saturation and brightness usually get me where i want to be. The HDR stuff is gonna be the biggest headache/second-guessing , with all of the info from this thread. haha


 Don't mention it.


I have calibrated my projector for SDR with a colourmetre and while there is a visible difference, it is subtle...

For HDR I would imagine a calibration would make a bigger difference, but i haven't had the time to learn how to do that, or to hire someone. I rarely watch HDR at the moment.


----------



## rustolemite

DEN7ER said:


> Finally treated myself to the 5040UBE, absolutely cant wait for it to arrive. I am a bit worried about the power failure issues ive read about on this form but my fingers are firmly crossed i get a good one. My question is; is there (after all this time & nearly 500 pages in THIS thread alone) a general consensus on the most impressive picture settings? oledert, harper? i'm not going for professional calibrations or using the disney disc - just want the consensus "best" for getting this beast to shine right out of the box. any help or suggestions would be MUCH appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> also using the Panasonic-900 4k player.  4k Sony receiver (DN1080)


Just wanted to add make sure the firmware is current, for me the Auto Bright is the main reason I have able to finally enjoy using HDR on my 4K discs.


----------



## rustolemite

Have a question about HTPC, I have a HTPC with an Nvidia GTX1060 running through my Marantz AV7704 to my 5040.
Can anybody point me in the right direction of what settings the Nvidia graphics should be on to get HDR and Rec.2020 from the PC when I am playing content that is 4K and has HDR.


Thanks


----------



## Aberk

Watching a movie last night, the projector abruptly stopped displaying an image and the orange bulb light came on. I went through a few of the trouble steps in the manual. The filter doesnt look that dirty and the bulb had never been touched, so I assume it was seated correctly. I dont understand how my bulb could go out after 1.5 years of ownership and about 10hrs a week of use in eco mode (I have a dark room and was trying to maximize bulb life). That is less 1k hours. Anything else worth trying? I'm going to call Epson when they open in a few hours. Anybody know where to get bulbs locally in Atlanta?


----------



## jsrdlr

Aberk said:


> Watching a movie last night, the projector abruptly stopped displaying an image and the orange bulb light came on. I went through a few of the trouble steps in the manual. The filter doesnt look that dirty and the bulb had never been touched, so I assume it was seated correctly. I dont understand how my bulb could go out after 1.5 years of ownership and about 10hrs a week of use in eco mode (I have a dark room and was trying to maximize bulb life). That is less 1k hours. Anything else worth trying? I'm going to call Epson when they open in a few hours. Anybody know where to get bulbs locally in Atlanta?


Same thing happened to me at ~6-700 hours IIRC. I called Epson, went through some basic troubleshooting steps, and they sent me a replacement free of charge. Thankfully, I had a spare on hand.

My latest issue is the projector will power off randomly. 3-4 times over the last month. Turn it back on and it's fine.


----------



## epetti

I had the random power off and at least for me it was tied to HDMI Link to a device that has auto sleep after a certain period of time. May not be the same problem but worth checking.


----------



## pedromvu

*Lens position wrong after each power on*

I am sure this has come up before but I could not find a definitive solution.

Every time I power on the projector, the lens position is slightly different, dealing with the lens shift is very frustrating because doesn't matter what I do, if I save the preset and load it, it goes too far in the direction that I last moved to adjust, anyway even if I save a preset to a very close location even after this misalignment after loading the lens, after next power on, if I load the lens memory I saved it will still be off.

Is the motorized lens shift memory really that bad? or am I missing something? maybe that is within the expected error percentage? that would be unacceptable for such a costly projector.


----------



## Uppsalaing

pedromvu said:


> I am sure this has come up before but I could not find a definitive solution.
> 
> Every time I power on the projector, the lens position is slightly different, dealing with the lens shift is very frustrating because doesn't matter what I do, if I save the preset and load it, it goes too far in the direction that I last moved to adjust, anyway even if I save a preset to a very close location even after this misalignment after loading the lens, after next power on, if I load the lens memory I saved it will still be off.
> 
> Is the motorized lens shift memory really that bad? or am I missing something? maybe that is within the expected error percentage? that would be unacceptable for such a costly projector.


Have you tried the solution on post no. 4180 of this thread? It usually solves lens shift memory issues...


----------



## kbarnes701

shazza6887 said:


> Another thing i wanted to know, does anyone here use the lens memory function? After a few switches between 16:9 and 2:40:1 it always seems to go off screen and i have to re allign?


You need to move the lens at least 10 'clicks' before you save the position. It should then return with total precision each time (like mine does). It's a documented issue. I haven't found it necessary to go in 'one direction' only (see earlier post) and can step back for the last couple of adjustments if needed - what seems to be important is to make sure you move at least 10 clicks.


----------



## z06gal

Hey guys. I have the Epson 6040 and see the firmware is now 1.12. Can someone tell me what was updated? I am on 1.11 without issues so I thought I would ask before installing. Thank you 


Robin


----------



## inspector

Amazon has dropped the cost of OEM 3D glasses to $78, the lowest I've ever seen them. 


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AB9IDOU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


The Epson Compatible ValueView 3D glasses increased by $5 to $41. I just cracked a lens on one of my OEM ones and will have to replace it and going with the ValueView, they work great!.


----------



## ccotenj

inspector said:


> Amazon has dropped the cost of OEM 3D glasses to $78, the lowest I've ever seen them.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AB9IDOU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
> 
> 
> The Epson Compatible ValueView 3D glasses increased by $5 to $41. I just cracked a lens on one of my OEM ones and will have to replace it and going with the ValueView, they work great!.


brings up something i’ve been meaning to ask for awhile. 

does anyone find one pair or the other “better” over prescription glasses? i don’t have a lot of 3-d material, but i’d like to be able to watch it.


----------



## gene4ht

gene4ht said:


> @*shepdog* , at regularly occurring intervals, new users/owners ask the same common questions relative to usage, functions, accessories, etc. It would be extremely helpful and beneficial to have an index in the first post that would direct owners directly to the posts that answers these questions. Some of the reoccurring questions that come to mind would be...there are more and others of course could be added.
> 
> - the lens memory function is not accurate...does not return to the position(s) that I saved.
> - what type of mount...ceiling, wall, or shelf do owners recommend
> *- what brand/type of 3D glasses work best with this projector*
> - where can I find the lastest HarperVision or Oledert settings


Case in point of my previous posting...but appears @*shepdog* is no longer active in these threads.



inspector said:


> Amazon has dropped the cost of OEM 3D glasses to $78, the lowest I've ever seen them.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AB9IDOU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
> 
> The Epson Compatible ValueView 3D glasses increased by $5 to $41. I just cracked a lens on one of my OEM ones and will have to replace it and * going with the ValueView, they work great!*.


Many agree, myself included, that the ValueVues are the best bet in terms of compatibility and price.



ccotenj said:


> brings up something i’ve been meaning to ask for awhile.
> 
> does anyone find one pair or the other *“better” over prescription glasses?* i don’t have a lot of 3-d material, but i’d like to be able to watch it.


Yes...the ValueView from Amazon appears overall to be the most compatible, best functioning, comfortable fitting (over eyeglasses), and value/price...I have six pair...see this original review posting from @*Stecchino* 

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html


----------



## Dominic Chan

z06gal said:


> Hey guys. I have the Epson 6040 and see the firmware is now 1.12. Can someone tell me what was updated? I am on 1.11 without issues so I thought I would ask before installing. Thank you


A simple forum search returned this:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-480.html#post56142990


----------



## gene4ht

Dominic Chan said:


> A simple forum search returned this:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-480.html#post56142990



Amen...where is @*shepdog* when you need him?


----------



## ccotenj

@Gene
thanks.


----------



## inspector

gene4ht said:


> Amen...where is @*shepdog* when you need him?



...chasing something???


----------



## gene4ht

inspector said:


> ...chasing something???



LOL! No...just say'n it would have been timely if there was an index in the first post available to address the OP's question about 3D glasses.


----------



## pedromvu

Uppsalaing said:


> Have you tried the solution on post no. 4180 of this thread? It usually solves lens shift memory issues...


Well at least for me, that doesn't really solve it.

First, I move more than 10 points to the right, save, load, it isn't perfectly as I saved but close enough.

Then, I move more than 10 points up, save, load, it is also not perfectly in the same vertical position, but the horizontal also moves a bit to the last place I moved (right).

Anyway I keep doing this until everything is perfect, after two restarts of the project now everything is a bit too much to the right and up, loading memory lens position goes to a somewhat worse position.

I don't even need to be able to load different lens positions, why can't the projector leave it's fixed position alone? why does the motor need to be engaged when powering it on instead of just leaving it as it was.


----------



## --Sclaws

pedromvu said:


> Well at least for me, that doesn't really solve it.
> 
> First, I move more than 10 points to the right, save, load, it isn't perfectly as I saved but close enough.
> 
> Then, I move more than 10 points up, save, load, it is also not perfectly in the same vertical position, but the horizontal also moves a bit to the last place I moved (right).
> 
> Anyway I keep doing this until everything is perfect, after two restarts of the project now everything is a bit too much to the right and up, loading memory lens position goes to a somewhat worse position.
> 
> I don't even need to be able to load different lens positions, why can't the projector leave it's fixed position alone? why does the motor need to be engaged when powering it on instead of just leaving it as it was.


I don't think that behavior is typical. Occasionally I have to "nudge" the position at startup, but that's infrequent. I blame it on more aggressive vibrations from my kids thumping around in the room directly above.


----------



## DEN7ER

rustolemite said:


> Just wanted to add make sure the firmware is current, for me the Auto Bright is the main reason I have able to finally enjoy using HDR on my 4K discs.



been running on auto bright  



Question though; is does this mean i have the latest installed Firmware/Update? i didn't install anything, did it come with the most current or no? (if you can tell)


----------



## rustolemite

DEN7ER said:


> been running on auto bright
> 
> 
> 
> Question though; is does this mean i have the latest installed Firmware/Update? i didn't install anything, did it come with the most current or no? (if you can tell)


That is the current version of the firmware, before this update I wasn't able to enjoy HDR it was just too dark. Now I use Bright Cinema with HDR on.


----------



## Aberk

jsrdlr said:


> Same thing happened to me at ~6-700 hours IIRC. I called Epson, went through some basic troubleshooting steps, and they sent me a replacement free of charge. Thankfully, I had a spare on hand.
> 
> My latest issue is the projector will power off randomly. 3-4 times over the last month. Turn it back on and it's fine.


I called Epson and they're overnighting me a bulb free of charge.


----------



## jsrdlr

epetti said:


> I had the random power off and at least for me it was tied to HDMI Link to a device that has auto sleep after a certain period of time. May not be the same problem but worth checking.


I bet it's the new Apple TV. That's the only change and it is set to turn off automatically. Thanks for the nudge in the right direction!


----------



## inspector

--Sclaws said:


> I don't think that behavior is typical. Occasionally I have to "nudge" the position at startup, but that's infrequent. I blame it on more aggressive vibrations from my kids thumping around in the room directly above.




Slamming the door by my HT would cause the PJ to move ever so slightly too.


----------



## jt7272

*Same here*



Aberk said:


> I called Epson and they're overnighting me a bulb free of charge.


I just had the same happen to me. Bulb popped at 575 hours. Hopefully they provide me with the same level of service!

I've owned Epson projectors in the past and I had this happen once (bulb died at ~800 hours on an 8350). In that case they replaced it free-of-charge.

EDIT: Called Epson and they are replacing the lamp free-of-charge. They admit that, given the conditions I described, the lamp should not have failed.


----------



## Tom Riddle

How does the Epson 5040 perform with HDR?


----------



## seplant

Tom Riddle said:


> How does the Epson 5040 perform with HDR?


HDR with any projector is a bit of a compromise because of the relatively low light output compared to a flat panel, but with the right settings, the 5040/6040 can produce a stunning image. If you're willing to spend a little extra on a light meter and learn to use the free HCFR calibration software, you can dial in the image to your liking (there is a dedicated thread on calibrating HDR on this projector using HCFR). There are quite a few of the manufacturers' (Sony, LG, Samsung) HDR promotional videos available on YouTube, and played on this projector under the right conditions, they can look almost as impressive as some of the flat panels, and with a significant size advantage (I'll take my 120" cinemascope screen over a 65" flat panel any day).


----------



## OrcusVaruna

seplant said:


> HDR with any projector is a bit of a compromise because of the relatively low light output compared to a flat panel, but with the right settings, the 5040/6040 can produce a stunning image. If you're willing to spend a little extra on a light meter and learn to use the free HCFR calibration software, you can dial in the image to your liking (there is a dedicated thread on calibrating HDR on this projector using HCFR). There are quite a few of the manufacturers' (Sony, LG, Samsung) HDR promotional videos available on YouTube, and played on this projector under the right conditions, they can look almost as impressive as some of the flat panels, and with a significant size advantage (I'll take my 120" cinemascope screen over a 65" flat panel any day).




Couldn’t agree more and after messing with calibrating with a light meter the results are stunning. It’s not that they were bad before, my natural settings remained pretty much the same and have become my default for ambient light viewing. But the meter really allowed me to take advantage of the cinema (for sdr) and digital cinema (for hdr) color modes, as I had struggled to use them properly before. My issue was with setting the gamma as I was unable to get deep blacks without crushing shadow detail. The meter fixed that issue for both modes; watching the expanse season finally was epic on a 100” screen calibrated to where you can’t see the screen end but loose little to no shadow detail! 

Honestly the meter wouldn’t even be necessary though if epson didn’t have the absolute worst custom gamma tools I have ever seen. Whoever decided that graph was a good idea needs a different job lol. But I digress, the projector is a joy to own once you have one that works and have it set up right. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Tom Riddle said:


> How does the Epson 5040 perform with HDR?





seplant said:


> *HDR with any projector is a bit of a compromise because of the relatively low light output compared to a flat panel, but with the right settings, the 5040/6040 can produce a stunning image.* If you're willing to spend a little extra on a light meter and learn to use the free HCFR calibration software, you can dial in the image to your liking (there is a dedicated thread on calibrating HDR on this projector using HCFR). There are quite a few of the manufacturers' (Sony, LG, Samsung) HDR promotional videos available on YouTube, and played on this projector under the right conditions, they can look almost as impressive as some of the flat panels, and with a significant size advantage (*I'll take my 120" cinemascope screen over a 65" flat panel any day*).





OrcusVaruna said:


> *Couldn’t agree more and after messing with calibrating with a light meter the results are stunning.* It’s not that they were bad before, my natural settings remained pretty much the same and have become my default for ambient light viewing. But the meter really allowed me to take advantage of the cinema (for sdr) and digital cinema (for hdr) color modes, as I had struggled to use them properly before. My issue was with setting the gamma as I was unable to get deep blacks without crushing shadow detail. The meter fixed that issue for both modes; watching the expanse season finally was epic on a 100” screen calibrated to where you can’t see the screen end but loose little to no shadow detail!
> 
> Honestly the meter wouldn’t even be necessary though if epson didn’t have the absolute worst custom gamma tools I have ever seen. Whoever decided that graph was a good idea needs a different job lol. But I digress, *the projector is a joy to own once you have one that works and have it set up right. *
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Hi Tom! Looks like you're made a decision relative to the location of an HT and moving forward? BTW...I'm in total agreement with the remarks and comments from both @seplant and @OrcusVaruna.


----------



## Keith Ferguson

*Enjoy your settings*



OrcusVaruna said:


> Couldn’t agree more and after messing with calibrating with a light meter the results are stunning. It’s not that they were bad before, my natural settings remained pretty much the same and have become my default for ambient light viewing. But the meter really allowed me to take advantage of the cinema (for sdr) and digital cinema (for hdr) color modes, as I had struggled to use them properly before. My issue was with setting the gamma as I was unable to get deep blacks without crushing shadow detail. The meter fixed that issue for both modes; watching the expanse season finally was epic on a 100” screen calibrated to where you can’t see the screen end but loose little to no shadow detail!
> 
> Honestly the meter wouldn’t even be necessary though if epson didn’t have the absolute worst custom gamma tools I have ever seen. Whoever decided that graph was a good idea needs a different job lol. But I digress, the projector is a joy to own once you have one that works and have it set up right.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Orcus, I currently use your natural settings in a perfect light controlled room and am very happy with it after hours of trying other settings and I was unaware that you use it for ambient light viewing. I know a lot of people get turned off by all the comments about there settings but I for one very much appreciate them. Would you be willing to share your light controlled viewing settings for HDR with the group, or just myself if you would prefer. Thank you kindly


----------



## ccotenj

i finally got around to playing with HDR a bit over the last week.


it was worth the playing around.


----------



## dysmartguy2005

So I am looking at the HC 4000 and HC 5040 projectors. I currently have the Epson hc 2045. Does anybody know where I can find out the native contrast ratios between the 2045, 4000 and the 5040 so I can have a comparison between what I have now and what I can potentially have with the 4000 and 5040? I know the contrast ratios on the website are not accurate.


----------



## evilmonstertruk

dysmartguy2005 said:


> So I am looking at the HC 4000 and HC 5040 projectors. I currently have the Epson hc 2045. Does anybody know where I can find out the native contrast ratios between the 2045, 4000 and the 5040 so I can have a comparison between what I have now and what I can potentially have with the 4000 and 5040? I know the contrast ratios on the website are not accurate.


The review of the HC 2150 has some info on all those. But 5040 is in another class. If you have the loot I would get the 5040.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## dysmartguy2005

evilmonstertruk said:


> The review of the HC 2150 has some info on all those. But 5040 is in another class. If you have the loot I would get the 5040.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Yeah I have heard that. I just want to see contrast ratio tests on those 3 projectors. What review are you seeing?


----------



## gene4ht

dysmartguy2005 said:


> Yeah I have heard that. *I just want to see contrast ratio tests on those 3 projectors*. What review are you seeing?



Numbers and test results aside, no better way than to see with your own eyes in your own home. Have you considered taking advantage of the liberal return policies of online retailers?


----------



## evilmonstertruk

dysmartguy2005 said:


> Yeah I have heard that. I just want to see contrast ratio tests on those 3 projectors. What review are you seeing?


https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...00-and-2150-projector-review-picture-quality/

Scroll though the black level comparison pictures. It says the model underneath

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## --Sclaws

FWIW I had an HC4000 for less than a week when I decide to return for a 5040. No regrets, and current pricing for the 5040 these days can be really good. If you can swing it, do the 5040.


----------



## avtoronto

--Sclaws said:


> FWIW I had an HC4000 for less than a week when I decide to return for a 5040. No regrets, and current pricing for the 5040 these days can be really good. If you can swing it, do the 5040.


All comes down to budget and how long you want to keep it for. I bought the PC 4040 as a stopgap unit until true 4K and better HDR become more affordable, which I expect will be the case within two years. That being said, most people love their 5040s.


----------



## shazza6887

Hey guys can someone clear a few things up for me,


I am starting to get into 4k content via streaming/4k UHD etc, As i understand our projector accepts the 4K signal turns it into 1080p and then upscales it to 4k? Seeing that most of the movies being released are really being pushed for the HDR effects our projector only outputs 12bit HDR and not 10bit? are we at a severe quality loss as opposed to something like the Optoma UHD60? 



Secondly i was meddling a little whiles back with calibration tools though never really got he hang of it, i have a Xrite i1 Pro metre, camera tripod and avshd 709. If i can get my hands on some 2020 test patterns should i be able to calibrate this beast on my own using HFCR software? Cn anyone point me in the right direction (thread) as mentioned earlier?


Cheers


----------



## dave25

Hi all, hoping some of you can tell me what is going on with my 5040ub. I've had it for about 8 months now and I'm super happy with it, but a problem appeared last night when I turned it on. After about 5 minutes of being turned on, a huge pink blob appeared in the middle of the screen. I turned the projector off and back on and the blob was gone, the projector then operated fine for about 6 hours afterwards so I didn't think much of it.

However, I just turned on the projector today and the same issue appeared after about 5-10 minutes. This time I snapped a couple photos. The strange thing is that the pink blob disappeared on its own about 2-3 minutes later. I watched it "fade" or "dissolve", for lack of a better description.

I attached a couple pictures I snapped with my phone.

Any ideas what is going on?


----------



## Dominic Chan

shazza6887 said:


> Secondly i was meddling a little whiles back with calibration tools though never really got he hang of it, i have a Xrite i1 Pro metre, camera tripod and avshd 709. If i can get my hands on some 2020 test patterns should i be able to calibrate this beast on my own using HFCR software? Cn anyone point me in the right direction (thread) as mentioned earlier?


There's an entire thread dedicated to this:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html
You don’t even need to test patterns, although they are useful to have.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Keith Ferguson said:


> Orcus, I currently use your natural settings in a perfect light controlled room and am very happy with it after hours of trying other settings and I was unaware that you use it for ambient light viewing. I know a lot of people get turned off by all the comments about there settings but I for one very much appreciate them. Would you be willing to share your light controlled viewing settings for HDR with the group, or just myself if you would prefer. Thank you kindly



I don’t care what other people think of my settings I just enjoy posting my experiences and findings from an amateur hobbyists perspective and would appreciate some constructive criticism and suggestions and maybe even get a few posts like yours wanting me to share more. The AV forums however tend to devolve into dismissive diatribes and/or outright attacks about your utter lack of understanding and how your harming the hobby. This is frustrating and counterproductive to say the least. It also keeps new hobbyists away from forums all together, which is a shame... The AV hobby for me is in many ways my favorite because I’m not an expert and don’t know everything unlike marine aquarium keeping, which I am. Sometimes that hobby becomes more like a second job as I am involved in it heavily both locally and in the forums. 

The AV hobby is more basal for me, as I just enjoy the heck out of an awesome image and great sound. However, I’m not a purist by any stretch and never pretend to be. I love my highly processed Sonos surround sound and the settings I arrived for my projector, because they are pleasing to me. For example even with the meter I still purposely push the image cooler because I prefer it that way. And I guess that’s what a hobby is all about, enjoying it your own way. But I digress lol

A few notes on the new settings as a few things really stood out during the calibration process for me. First is how good of a projector this is, it really is capable of amazing things. Second is HDR is full of trade offs you have to make during calibration and it really makes me hate the format. I feel like they could have greatly refined the spec before sending it out into the wild. Content is literally all over the place being mastered at different luminance values, they really should have set hard limits for content to allow device manufacturers to tailor equipment to maximize performance like they did with sdr. Third I chose to basically leave gamma unchanged from my previous settings and focused on using the color menu to tweak the image. The reason I chose to do this is my previous HDR gamma proved to be a great starting point and since I’m new to calibrating for HDR this worked well for me. It also doesn’t help that the gamma graph is horrible to the point of being nearly unusable. Finally, it amazed me how darn difficult calibrating with a meter is. I would start down a certain path and end up at a dead end having to just start over. That’s the primary reason why I decided to make certain decisions such as leaving the gamma at certain values that work well enough as this allowed me to get close enough to make the rest of the calibration easier. Overall I hope you enjoy and please I would love some comments and constructive criticism as this is my first attempt at proper calibrations with a light meter. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

OrcusVaruna said:


> I don’t care what other people think of my settings I just enjoy posting my experiences and findings from an amateur hobbyists perspective and would appreciate some constructive criticism and suggestions and maybe even get a few posts like yours wanting me to share more. The AV forums however tend to devolve into dismissive diatribes and/or outright attacks about your utter lack of understanding and how your harming the hobby. This is frustrating and counterproductive to say the least. It also keeps new hobbyists away from forums all together, which is a shame... The AV hobby for me is in many ways my favorite because I’m not an expert and don’t know everything unlike marine aquarium keeping, which I am. Sometimes that hobby becomes more like a second job as I am involved in it heavily both locally and in the forums.
> 
> The AV hobby is more basal for me, as I just enjoy the heck out of an awesome image and great sound. However, I’m not a purist by any stretch and never pretend to be. I love my highly processed Sonos surround sound and the settings I arrived for my projector, because they are pleasing to me. For example even with the meter I still purposely push the image cooler because I prefer it that way. And I guess that’s what a hobby is all about, enjoying it your own way. But I digress lol
> 
> A few notes on the new settings as a few things really stood out during the calibration process for me. First is how good of a projector this is, it really is capable of amazing things. Second is HDR is full of trade offs you have to make during calibration and it really makes me hate the format. I feel like they could have greatly refined the spec before sending it out into the wild. Content is literally all over the place being mastered at different luminance values, they really should have set hard limits for content to allow device manufacturers to tailor equipment to maximize performance like they did with sdr. Third I chose to basically leave gamma unchanged from my previous settings and focused on using the color menu to tweak the image. The reason I chose to do this is my previous HDR gamma proved to be a great starting point and since I’m new to calibrating for HDR this worked well for me. It also doesn’t help that the gamma graph is horrible to the point of being nearly unusable. Finally, it amazed me how darn difficult calibrating with a meter is. I would start down a certain path and end up at a dead end having to just start over. That’s the primary reason why I decided to make certain decisions such as leaving the gamma at certain values that work well enough as this allowed me to get close enough to make the rest of the calibration easier. Overall I hope you enjoy and please I would love some comments and constructive criticism as this is my first attempt at proper calibrations with a light meter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Forgot to mention that yes I kept the projector on autobright instead of auto only because I enjoy the image more. It does clip much earlier then auto and also crushes near max nit data and sure I may not see every last detail in a cloud. But overall the trade offs are worth it as it drives that simulated hdr look that I am after far better then auto. I also have been tinkering with brightness and contrast on the digital cinema hdr settings and have been liking pushing brightness up to 56 and contrast down to 34. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

OrcusVaruna said:


> Forgot to mention that yes I kept the projector on autobright instead of auto only because I enjoy the image more. It does clip much earlier then auto and also crushes near max nit data and sure I may not see every last detail in a cloud. But overall the trade offs are worth it as it drives that simulated hdr look that I am after far better then auto.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I for one appreciate you posting your settings and I am looking forward to giving them a try. Thank you.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> I for one appreciate you posting your settings and I am looking forward to giving them a try. Thank you.




Your welcome! Can’t wait to hear your feedback 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

@robc1976 can you post the settings you came up with. I would be curious to compare. Also, what was your experience with calibrating, was it as frustrating as I found it to be? Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> @robc1976 can you post the settings you came up with. I would be curious to compare. Also, what was your experience with calibrating, was it as frustrating as I found it to be? Lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


it canbe super frustrating with HDR, I will post them but will not look as good as its calibrated to my screen and my room.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> it canbe super frustrating with HDR, I will post them but will not look as good as its calibrated to my screen and my room.




Understood I’m more looking to use them as a different starting point for calibration. I’m particularly interested in your gamma and how it relates to your color management numbers. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 314carpenter

*Should I jump in the pool and buy used?*

I have the opportunity to purchase a locally sourced previously used 5040ub, (approximately 600 hours) together with a basic fixed frame 92" white screen and *I need your input if I should make this my first ever front projection purchase*. This would be my max budget in any case. Only possible now because of the used price. This purchase would be for a secondary space I originally used to retire my old equipment "electronics graveyard". This setup would barely fit, as I only have a 12'6" wide 13'6" deep 8' high room with the possibility of fabric covered walls, and blacked out patio doors, but I will keep the white ceiling paint. The bottom of the screen height must be 3' up off the floor because I have full range JBL's all around the room. Seating distance is 8'. Viewing content would be 80% blu-ray movies. I only own 2 UHD disks, mostly for demo reasons, as my main screen has been panasonic plasma for the past 5 years, so I am very accustomed to black is black and never sit close enough to resolve 4k with my vision/seating distance with my current system.

Another question, *can I set up a constant bottom image height* when switching from 16:9 to 2.39:1, without loosing image quality, as opposed to the standard constant image height? I ask because I have a spacial limit of ceiling, and speakers giving me 60" of working space, and I do not want to be staring at the ceiling while I crane my neck. Specifically asking If I could set up the 2.39:1 at the bottom of the screen, and 16:9 at the bottom of the screen.

The available space for this project is in the provided photo:
everything between the jbl's in the photo would go away. If I move the desk, I loose a guest bed, and gain a big WAF.



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Main system : Panasonic TC-P60ST60 plasma; Denon AVR-X6200W; Monolith 7X amp 200Wx7; Klipsch RSW-10 sub; modified Klipsch Chorus II Fronts; modified Klipsch Forte II center; modified Klipsch Chorus II surrounds; modified Klipsch Academy rear heights; JBL L20T3 front heights; Mogami 10ga speaker cables, Morrow Audio interconnects; custom gaming pc 

Secondary system LG 47" LCD; Onkyo tx-nr818; JBL 240Ti Fronts; JBL L200T3 Center; JBL L100T3 Surrounds; Mogami cables; custom htpc/server.


----------



## Uppsalaing

314carpenter said:


> I have the opportunity to purchase a locally sourced previously used 5040ub, (approximately 600 hours) together with a basic fixed frame 92" white screen and *I need your input if I should make this my first ever front projection purchase*. This would be my max budget in any case. Only possible now because of the used price. This purchase would be for a secondary space I originally used to retire my old equipment "electronics graveyard". This setup would barely fit, as I only have a 12'6" wide 13'6" deep 8' high room with the possibility of fabric covered walls, and blacked out patio doors, but I will keep the white ceiling paint. The bottom of the screen height must be 3' up off the floor because I have full range JBL's all around the room. Seating distance is 8'. Viewing content would be 80% blu-ray movies. I only own 2 UHD disks, mostly for demo reasons, as my main screen has been panasonic plasma for the past 5 years, so I am very accustomed to black is black and never sit close enough to resolve 4k with my vision/seating distance with my current system.
> 
> Another question, *can I set up a constant bottom image height* when switching from 16:9 to 2.39:1, without loosing image quality, as opposed to the standard constant image height? I ask because I have a spacial limit of ceiling, and speakers giving me 60" of working space, and I do not want to be staring at the ceiling while I crane my neck. Specifically asking If I could set up the 2.39:1 at the bottom of the screen, and 16:9 at the bottom of the screen.
> 
> The available space for this project is in the provided photo:
> everything between the jbl's in the photo would go away. If I move the desk, I loose a guest bed, and gain a big WAF.
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Main system : Panasonic TC-P60ST60 plasma; Denon AVR-X6200W; Monolith 7X amp 200Wx7; Klipsch RSW-10 sub; modified Klipsch Chorus II Fronts; modified Klipsch Forte II center; modified Klipsch Chorus II surrounds; modified Klipsch Academy rear heights; JBL L20T3 front heights; Mogami 10ga speaker cables, Morrow Audio interconnects; custom gaming pc
> 
> Secondary system LG 47" LCD; Onkyo tx-nr818; JBL 240Ti Fronts; JBL L200T3 Center; JBL L100T3 Surrounds; Mogami cables; custom htpc/server.


You can check throw and image dimensions (including lens shift) using Epson's throw calculator on their website. Keep in mund that the projector itself is about 46 centimentres deep so add that to your throw distance.



You can use tape on the wall to outline where your screen will be so you can judge neck strain...


You can save lens memories to keep the screen aligned to the bottom. It's easy.


Good luck


----------



## Lesmor

314carpenter said:


> I have the opportunity to purchase a locally sourced previously used 5040ub, (approximately 600 hours) together with a basic fixed frame 92" white screen and *I need your input if I should make this my first ever front projection purchase*. This would be my max budget in any case. Only possible now because of the used price. This purchase would be for a secondary space I originally used to retire my old equipment "electronics graveyard". This setup would barely fit, as I only have a 12'6" wide 13'6" deep 8' high room with the possibility of fabric covered walls, and blacked out patio doors, but I will keep the white ceiling paint. The bottom of the screen height must be 3' up off the floor because I have full range JBL's all around the room. Seating distance is 8'. Viewing content would be 80% blu-ray movies. I only own 2 UHD disks, mostly for demo reasons, as my main screen has been panasonic plasma for the past 5 years, so I am very accustomed to black is black and never sit close enough to resolve 4k with my vision/seating distance with my current system.
> 
> Another question, *can I set up a constant bottom image height* when switching from 16:9 to 2.39:1, without loosing image quality, as opposed to the standard constant image height? I ask because I have a spacial limit of ceiling, and speakers giving me 60" of working space, and I do not want to be staring at the ceiling while I crane my neck. Specifically asking If I could set up the 2.39:1 at the bottom of the screen, and 16:9 at the bottom of the screen.
> 
> The available space for this project is in the provided photo:
> everything between the jbl's in the photo would go away. If I move the desk, I loose a guest bed, and gain a big WAF.
> 
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Main system : Panasonic TC-P60ST60 plasma; Denon AVR-X6200W; Monolith 7X amp 200Wx7; Klipsch RSW-10 sub; modified Klipsch Chorus II Fronts; modified Klipsch Forte II center; modified Klipsch Chorus II surrounds; modified Klipsch Academy rear heights; JBL L20T3 front heights; Mogami 10ga speaker cables, Morrow Audio interconnects; custom gaming pc
> 
> Secondary system LG 47" LCD; Onkyo tx-nr818; JBL 240Ti Fronts; JBL L200T3 Center; JBL L100T3 Surrounds; Mogami cables; custom htpc/server.


Sounds fine but what as is regularly reported in this thread the power supply failed?
Are you getting any kind of warranty is the Epson warranty transferable to a new owner ?


----------



## 314carpenter

Lesmor said:


> Sounds fine but what as is regularly reported in this thread the power supply failed?
> Are you getting any kind of warranty is the Epson warranty transferable to a new owner ?


Warranty has 8 months remaining, and is Epson says "the original retail purchaser........For warranty service, you must provide proof of the date of original purchase." Receipt is included in the sale. Price to me would be about $1000 off current new prices. Current retail prices are $2299 projector and about $250 screen. I wonder what does a non-warranty power supply replacement cost, including shipping?


----------



## avtoronto

314carpenter said:


> Warranty has 8 months remaining, and is Epson says "the original retail purchaser........For warranty service, you must provide proof of the date of original purchase." Receipt is included in the sale. Price to me would be about $1000 off current new prices. Current retail prices are $2299 projector and about $250 screen. I wonder what does a non-warranty power supply replacement cost, including shipping?


I have a Panasonic VT60 and an Epson PC 4040 (step down from the 5040 but comparable). The plasma produces richer color and better blacks. The Epson viewing experience is more impactful (112" screen) and really feels like a cinema experience. The Epson with HDR content produces a good picture. Some have said that with professional calibration, they have been able to get the 5040's color reproduction to be comparable to a plasma, but I have not had a calibration done. Like you, I am budget constrained. I previously had my Atmos system set-up with my plasma set in a family room. Now I have it set up in the basement with the projector and screen. This is a more immersive and satisfying experience. So yes, some picture quality sacrificed but a gain in impact and immersion.


----------



## gene4ht

avtoronto said:


> I have a Panasonic VT60 and an Epson PC 4040 (step down from the 5040 but comparable). The plasma produces richer color and better blacks. The Epson viewing experience is more impactful (112" screen) and really feels like a cinema experience. The Epson with HDR content produces a good picture. Some have said that with professional calibration, they have been able to get the 5040's color reproduction to be comparable to a plasma, but I have not had a calibration done. Like you, I am budget constrained. I previously had my Atmos system set-up with my plasma set in a family room. Now I have it set up in the basement with the projector and screen. This is a more immersive and satisfying experience. So yes, some picture quality sacrificed but a gain in impact and immersion.


 Agreed....well said. I also have both. Some have described the difference as watching a good TV or enjoying a totally immersive experience.

Relative to the OP's inquiry and situation, however, and relative to only the power supply issue, Epson's advance support indicated to me that consideration would be provided for those failures occurring beyond the normal warranty period...determined on a case by case basis.


----------



## ccotenj

avtoronto said:


> I have a Panasonic VT60 and an Epson PC 4040 (step down from the 5040 but comparable). The plasma produces richer color and better blacks. The Epson viewing experience is more impactful (112" screen) and really feels like a cinema experience. The Epson with HDR content produces a good picture. Some have said that with professional calibration, they have been able to get the 5040's color reproduction to be comparable to a plasma, but I have not had a calibration done. Like you, I am budget constrained. I previously had my Atmos system set-up with my plasma set in a family room. Now I have it set up in the basement with the projector and screen. This is a more immersive and satisfying experience. So yes, some picture quality sacrificed but a gain in impact and immersion.


i had a professionally calibrated 60” kuro. 

i sold it very shortly after getting my first pj, which was decent, but not as good as subsequent projectors.

gimme a flat panel that is 110” that i can get to the second floor of my house for a similar price to a “good” pj and screen, and i’m all over it. until then...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> I have a Panasonic VT60 and an Epson PC 4040 (step down from the 5040 but comparable). The plasma produces richer color and better blacks. The Epson viewing experience is more impactful (112" screen) and really feels like a cinema experience. The Epson with HDR content produces a good picture. Some have said that with professional calibration, they have been able to get the 5040's color reproduction to be comparable to a plasma, but I have not had a calibration done. Like you, I am budget constrained. I previously had my Atmos system set-up with my plasma set in a family room. Now I have it set up in the basement with the projector and screen. This is a more immersive and satisfying experience. So yes, some picture quality sacrificed but a gain in impact and immersion.




Yes the 5040 when locked in is able to get blacks that are comparable to a good lcd display, won’t touch a Panny plasma or an oled but comparable to my vizio m series with the local dimming turned off. As for the color sdr content is pretty close out of the box and nearly perfect after a few minutes with a calibration disc and a color filter. It really is that good and easy to calibrate for sdr. HDR on the other hand is a complete mess and requires hours of tweaking to get a respectable image and really a professional calibration or the purchase of a light meter to pull a show stopping HDR image.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 314carpenter

The Mother Ship has arrived! Thank you  @Uppsalaing  @Lesmor  @avtoronto  @gene4ht  @ccotenj  @OrcusVaruna
for your input in my specific concern, and sharing your very similar setups.
and thanks to the Owner Group for guiding me to this special day.

The previous owner was great to work with on the sale. His home is sold, and unfortunately his new home has skylights everywhere. 400 some odd hours, 92" screen, ceiling bracket, and a 30 something foot HDMI beast of a cable.

Happy Birthday America


----------



## ccotenj

^

welcome to the pj owners club!!!

get that bad boy set up!!


----------



## Azekecse

314carpenter said:


> The Mother Ship has arrived! Thank you
> @Uppsalaing
> @Lesmor
> @avtoronto
> @gene4ht
> @ccotenj
> @OrcusVaruna
> for your input in my specific concern, and sharing your very similar setups.
> and thanks to the Owner Group for guiding me to this special day.
> 
> The previous owner was great to work with on the sale. His home is sold, and unfortunately his new home has skylights everywhere. 400 some odd hours, 92" screen, ceiling bracket, and a 30 something foot HDMI beast of a cable.
> 
> Happy Birthday America


Congratulations and welcome to the Club...Time to go to work 

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## gene4ht

I’ll add my congrats as well. Be prepared to be wow’ed! A great immersive experience awaits you!


----------



## avtoronto

OrcusVaruna said:


> Your welcome! Can’t wait to hear your feedback
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I applied your SDR dark room settings then tweaked the brightness and contrast using Disney's WOW disc for my environment and I'm very pleased with the result. This is the best SDR picture I've been able to obtain. I will give your HDR settings a go next time I'm watching HDR material. Have you also tried the 'Harpervision' settings and its derivatives? Thanks again for posting.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> I applied your SDR dark room settings then tweaked the brightness and contrast using Disney's WOW disc for my environment and I'm very pleased with the result. This is the best SDR picture I've been able to obtain. I will give your HDR settings a go next time I'm watching HDR material. Have you also tried the 'Harpervision' settings and its derivatives? Thanks again for posting.




I’m glad your enjoying them! I have tried the harpervision settings and I’m not a fan of them especially since the release of the autobright signal setting. Forcing the projector to the sdr mode significantly raises the black floor and leads to a washed out image in my experience. It was great before because it solved the issue with hdr being way too dark but this is no longer an issue since epson pushed out some core firmware fixes to the signal processing of hdr and we have all gotten better at using the gamma graph to boost apparent brightness of the image as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## edgecrush

OrcusVaruna said:


> Forgot to mention that yes I kept the projector on autobright instead of auto only because I enjoy the image more. It does clip much earlier then auto and also crushes near max nit data and sure I may not see every last detail in a cloud. But overall the trade offs are worth it as it drives that simulated hdr look that I am after far better then auto. I also have been tinkering with brightness and contrast on the digital cinema hdr settings and have been liking pushing brightness up to 56 and contrast down to 34.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Trying to keep this short....I have followed this thread for quite awhile now...I have posted once or twice. I own the 6040UB and have read how multiple owners have been absolutely blown away by the 4K HDR picture the projector can throw after calibration. I am not the type to purchase calibration equipment and learn the in's and out's of properly calibrating the projector but absolutely appreciate everyone else who does and posts their settings! I have used multiple calibrated settings off of the "sheet of calibrations" provided on the thread. I have been quite impressed with a number of them, yet never "blown away" as others have described....until now! 



I used Orcus's settings, inputted exactly as he described, including pushing the Brightness to 56 and the Contrast to 34, and I don't know what it is....If we have similar rooms, similar screens, throw distances, who knows.....NOW I can understand and join that same club of people that are absolutely blown away by the 4K HDR picture that the projector outputs! All of the other settings provided on this thread, for me have been a tad too dark, or the colors were a bit "off"...but, not anymore!



I cannot state enough how impressed I am by Orcus's calibrated settings and greatly appreciate the sharing of them! Thanks again Orcus!


----------



## Lesmor

OrcusVaruna said:


> I’m glad your enjoying them! I have tried the harpervision settings and I’m not a fan of them especially since the release of the autobright signal setting. Forcing the projector to the sdr mode significantly raises the black floor and leads to a washed out image in my experience. It was great before because it solved the issue with hdr being way too dark but this is no longer an issue since epson pushed out some core firmware fixes to the signal processing of hdr and we have all gotten better at using the gamma graph to boost apparent brightness of the image as well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Any chance of providing a link to your latest settings in your signature?
This would ensure followers are using the current versions


----------



## Keith Ferguson

OrcusVaruna said:


> I’m glad your enjoying them! I have tried the harpervision settings and I’m not a fan of them especially since the release of the autobright signal setting. Forcing the projector to the sdr mode significantly raises the black floor and leads to a washed out image in my experience. It was great before because it solved the issue with hdr being way too dark but this is no longer an issue since epson pushed out some core firmware fixes to the signal processing of hdr and we have all gotten better at using the gamma graph to boost apparent brightness of the image as well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


super happy with your settings....thank you Sir. quick question, will you please clarify your strength/range settings in HDR dark room? not getting the preset 3.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Keith Ferguson said:


> super happy with your settings....thank you Sir. quick question, will you please clarify your strength/range settings in HDR dark room? not getting the preset 3.




I’m on vacation but it’s located under the image enhancement sub menu located below sharpness if memory serves me right. Send me a pm as a reminder and I’ll post the exact values when I get back next week. Glad your enjoying the settings!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lesmor said:


> Any chance of providing a link to your latest settings in your signature?
> 
> This would ensure followers are using the current versions




Yes I’ll update them and post the link when I’m back from vacation next week. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

I know this has been probably asked before but was wanting some input on PC video card settings in Windows 10.
I just installed a GTX1060 with HDMI 2.0b and wanted to know what settings are best/required for use with my Epson?
I will be running the PC through my Marantz 7704 then out to the Epson, I know that using HDR on Windows 10 may still be a little buggy but just wanting
to know what settings are recommended.

Thanks


----------



## justindohman

Does anyone have a alternative download link for firmware 1.09 or a dropbox link they could share. I am having issures with their website as its a broken link and I have a projector I need to update.


----------



## nickoakdl

I just changed screens from a 133" 16:9 Da-lite High Power 2.4 to a 158" white 2.35:1 Silver Ticket. Here are some images taken from my phone for those interested.


----------



## Mr.G

justindohman said:


> Does anyone have a alternative download link for firmware 1.09 or a dropbox link they could share. I am having issues with their website as its a broken link and I have a projector I need to update.


You will want to search for the latest firmware, either version 1.11 or 1.12.

If you're having problems with the US Epson site here is the European Epson site:

https://www.epson.eu/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9300#drivers


----------



## DVDGurl

Hi there. Just moved into a new home and was thinking of setting up my living room with a projector. My throw range is about 16.5 - 18 feet. The room has a couple windows, but viewing would mostly be at night and I was thinking of going with an ALR screen. I've read the 5040 is a pretty bright PJ so just wanted to see if this would be a good one to go with or should I look at something different.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## gene4ht

DVDGurl said:


> Hi there. Just moved into a new home and was thinking of setting up my living room with a projector. My throw range is about 16.5 - 18 feet. The room has a couple windows, but viewing would mostly be at night and I was thinking of going with an ALR screen. I've read the 5040 is a pretty bright PJ so just wanted to see if this would be a good one to go with or should I look at something different.
> 
> Thanks in advance.



If the majority of your viewing will be during evening hours, it will definitely not be an issue. And if there are only two windows, even daytime viewing should not be a problem especially if there is no direct light onto the screen and/or you are able to even partially close curtains or blinds. Many people who have never owned projectors believe that ambient light will literally wash out a projected image is not accurate. Many of today's projectors are bright enough to tolerate some level of ambient light and still have a very watchable/presentable image. It's the enthusiasts who crave deep blacks and maximum contrast who favor and must have a complete absence of light. ALR screens are typically for those who have many or very large windows that have direct light falling onto to the screen or most of their viewing is daytime TV and movies. I would recommend purchasing a projector from a reputable dealer with a liberal return policy and try projecting onto a plain white or light colored wall and see for yourself if the image is acceptable to you. You can then decide if you want to keep the projector and get a standard or ALR screen. If you're a typical viewer and not expecting OLED flat panel quality and not OCD about blacks, I'll bet you'll be more than satisfied with the image from the 5040. My .02 Good luck with your decision!


----------



## DVDGurl

gene4ht said:


> If most of your viewing will be at night, it will definitely not be an issue. And if there are only two windows, even daytime viewing should not be a problem especially if there is no direct light onto the screen and/or you are able to even partially close curtains or blinds. Many people who have never owned projectors believe that ambient light will literally wash out a projected image is not accurate. Many of today's projectors are bright enough to tolerate some level ambient light and still have a very watchable/presentable image. It's the enthusiasts who crave deep blacks and maximum contrast who favor and must have a complete absence of light. ALR screens are typically for those who have many or very large windows that have direct light falling onto to the screen or most of their viewing is daytime TV and movies. I would recommend purchasing a projector from a reputable dealer with a liberal return policy and try projecting onto a plain white or light colored wall and see for yourself if the image is acceptable to you. You can then decide if you want to keep the projector and get a standard or ALR screen. If you're an average or hobby viewer and not OCD about blacks, I'll bet you'll be more than satisfied with the image from the 5040. My .02 Good luck with your decision!


 Thanks for the great info. My hubby built us a dedicated room in our last house, but this new house just doesn't have space for something dedicated. Since we do most of our viewing at night, I figured the living room would be a good alternative (it's already wired for 7.2 thanks to the last owners). We have a LCD on the wall for daytime viewing and my idea is to get a retractable screen to drop down in front when we want to watch movies. I'm guessing it will be about 110" diag. Since it's not dedicated, I hope the 5040 will be the right choice as it seems to meet 80% of what I need for half the price of the more expensive units.


----------



## gene4ht

DVDGurl said:


> Thanks for the great info. My hubby built us a dedicated room in our last house, but this new house just doesn't have space for something dedicated. Since we do most of our viewing at night, I figured the living room would be a good alternative (it's already wired for 7.2 thanks to the last owners). We have a LCD on the wall for daytime viewing and my idea is to get a retractable screen to drop down in front when we want to watch movies. I'm guessing it will be about 110" diag. Since it's not dedicated, I hope the 5040 will be the right choice as it seems to meet 80% of what I need for half the price of the more expensive units.



Under the scenario you've described, the 5040 would be an excellent choice...you won't be disappointed. And of course, you'll have the best of both worlds!


----------



## avscottso

justindohman said:


> Does anyone have a alternative download link for firmware 1.09 or a dropbox link they could share. I am having issures with their website as its a broken link and I have a projector I need to update.



Hello, I'm not allowed to post a link because I've only posted once before, so . . . 

I downloaded 1.12 a couple days ago from Epson dot com /Support/wa00805

I think only the 1.12 is available, but they list it as 1.12/1.11. I have not installed it because I have 1.11 and 1.12 doesn't do much, just moves some HDR menu items into a different priority.

ps: I hope I'm not out of line with the work around for the page direction, just want to help because Epson made it very difficult to find.


----------



## totomarley

I just got the 5040ube. I hooked up the wireless module and it doesnt seem to work. I have the out from the device going to hdmi 1 on my yahama receiver which is 4k ready. I put the out from the receiver to my hdmi 4k slot on the projector. It connects to the module but will not find any of the devices attached to the hdmi slots, except the roku which is in the hdmi slot 4 of the wireless module. It only works if i take all of the other hdmi cables out of slot 1-3. I don't get it. So I bypassed it all together and hooked all my devices into the hdmi's on the yamaha receiver and they all work. I just don't get it. Any ideas. I really would like to use this thing since I paid for it>


----------



## Azekecse

totomarley said:


> I just got the 5040ube. I hooked up the wireless module and it doesnt seem to work. I have the out from the device going to hdmi 1 on my yahama receiver which is 4k ready. I put the out from the receiver to my hdmi 4k slot on the projector. It connects to the module but will not find any of the devices attached to the hdmi slots, except the roku which is in the hdmi slot 4 of the wireless module. It only works if i take all of the other hdmi cables out of slot 1-3. I don't get it. So I bypassed it all together and hooked all my devices into the hdmi's on the yamaha receiver and they all work. I just don't get it. Any ideas. I really would like to use this thing since I paid for it>


Don't have one, but my quick thoughts:

1). Line of Sight no obstructions
2). Wireless Module in correct USB slot
3). Ensure IR is configured for the front of the projector in the menu settings
4). Ensure all HDMI cables are 4K High Speed
5). Make sure the Wireless LAN Power setting is set to On in the Menu settings
6). Contact Epson Support

Hope this helps. Please keep us posted

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## avscottso

totomarley said:


> I just got the 5040ube. I hooked up the wireless module and it doesnt seem to work. I have the out from the device going to hdmi 1 on my yahama receiver which is 4k ready. I put the out from the receiver to my hdmi 4k slot on the projector. It connects to the module but will not find any of the devices attached to the hdmi slots, except the roku which is in the hdmi slot 4 of the wireless module. It only works if i take all of the other hdmi cables out of slot 1-3. I don't get it. So I bypassed it all together and hooked all my devices into the hdmi's on the yamaha receiver and they all work. I just don't get it. Any ideas. I really would like to use this thing since I paid for it>


As Azekecse pointed out, #1 on that list is very important.

The HDMI out of the transmitter, I believe, is to go to a different display, not to the projector. So if the 5040UBE has a HDMI cable from the Yamaha in addition to the wireless, that may be causing a conflict.

From the manual I find the following:
8 *TV* light (lit when the HDMI Out port is selected as the output)
9 1-4 (HDMI1 through HDMI4) lights (lit when the port is being *projected*)

So it maybe check that when using wireless to the projector that the HDMI out port is not functioning as the output.


----------



## avscottso

totomarley, couple more things.

The Epson manual is very cryptic, but, it would appear that HDMI-4 is only for mobile devices. See page 97.

Also, if you look at the bottom buttons on your remote for the projector, you will see a button for switching the output of the transmitter from PROJECTOR to TV. Also shown on page 97.


----------



## avscottso

totomarley, after thinking about it, I suggest you remove the HDMI out cable from the transmitter to aid in diagnosing the setup. Keep it simple. Maybe try only one device connected to an input, then, when successful add another one, etc.

sorry for the extra posting. due to not being able to edit, i can't go back to the previous post to add additional thoughts.


----------



## sddp

nickoakdl said:


> I just changed screens from a 133" 16:9 Da-lite High Power 2.4 to a 158" white 2.35:1 Silver Ticket. Here are some images taken from my phone for those interested.


Your room, speakers layout and cabinets is very similar to mine. I have a 150" edgefree 16:9 and have thought about/wanting to go 2:35.


What draw backs have you noticed?

I game a lot, but Friday nights is Movie nights almost 52 weeks a year. I have noticed that a LARGE amount of films are now in 2:35. 

The one thing I've noticed doing the math is you loose more real estate watching watching a 16:9 on a 2:35 (meaning there's more black bars on the sides) than the other way around.

Any advice, input, suggestions would be greatly appreciated


----------



## WynsWrld98

sddp said:


> Your room, speakers layout and cabinets is very similar to mine. I have a 150" edgefree 16:9 and have thought about/wanting to go 2:35.
> 
> 
> What draw backs have you noticed?
> 
> I game a lot, but Friday nights is Movie nights almost 52 weeks a year. I have noticed that a LARGE amount of films are now in 2:35.
> 
> The one thing I've noticed doing the math is you loose more real estate watching watching a 16:9 on a 2:35 (meaning there's more black bars on the sides) than the other way around.
> 
> Any advice, input, suggestions would be greatly appreciated


Huge fan of 2.35:1 screens vs 16:9 due to 2.35:1 movies looking like a real movie theater on that setup. The fact the 5040/6040 include powered zoom, lens shift and focus with memory settings makes it all the better.


----------



## nickoakdl

sddp said:


> nickoakdl said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just changed screens from a 133" 16:9 Da-lite High Power 2.4 to a 158" white 2.35:1 Silver Ticket. Here are some images taken from my phone for those interested.
> 
> 
> 
> Your room, speakers layout and cabinets is very similar to mine. I have a 150" edgefree 16:9 and have thought about/wanting to go 2:35.
> 
> 
> What draw backs have you noticed?
> 
> I game a lot, but Friday nights is Movie nights almost 52 weeks a year. I have noticed that a LARGE amount of films are now in 2:35.
> 
> The one thing I've noticed doing the math is you loose more real estate watching watching a 16:9 on a 2:35 (meaning there's more black bars on the sides) than the other way around.
> 
> Any advice, input, suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Click to expand...

I have no real drawbacks other than how awful it was assembling the Silver Ticket screen. Going from 133" 16:9 to 158" 2.35:1 I didn't really lose any area when I watch something in 16:9, but I gained a ton when watching 2.35:1. 

One of my concerns was how well this projector would handle something this large and it's been great. Here's a couple more pics:


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lesmor said:


> Any chance of providing a link to your latest settings in your signature?
> This would ensure followers are using the current versions


Here ya go, enjoy!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Keith Ferguson said:


> super happy with your settings....thank you Sir. quick question, will you please clarify your strength/range settings in HDR dark room? not getting the preset 3.















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

nickoakdl said:


> I just changed screens from a 133" 16:9 Da-lite High Power 2.4 to a 158" white 2.35:1 Silver Ticket. Here are some images taken from my phone for those interested.



How’s the image quality of the silver ticket compared to the da-lite: black levels, color, resolution?

Also, can you tell me where you got the single shelf TV cabinet under your screen? I’ve been looking for something like that. Do you mind all the lights from your equipment facing you? How does it vent - open in the back?

Thanks!


----------



## nickoakdl

Viche said:


> How’s the image quality of the silver ticket compared to the da-lite: black levels, color, resolution?


Honestly I'm sure there are plenty of differences, but my brain has forgotten them. When I still High Power screen I put the samples of the Silver Ticket over it and obviously the HP screen was brighter, but the Silver Ticket got better blacks. After selling the HP screen and going a week projecting on a grey wall, the Silver Ticket seemed just as bright after I tweaked a few settings in my projector (and I still run it on Eco).

The biggest difference with resolution is when projecting at 158" the image is only as good as the source material. If the Blu-ray or UHD or stream doesn't look good, it'll show. If it looks great, that'll show too. Black Panther's Blu-ray looks better than 90% of UHD movies I've seen and it really highlights what the projector is capable of.


Viche said:


> Also, can you tell me where you got the single shelf TV cabinet under your screen? I’ve been looking for something like that. Do you mind all the lights from your equipment facing you? How does it vent - open in the back?
> 
> Thanks!


I made that out of some 4x8 MDF cut in half, painted black, and put together with furniture legs bought at Ikea.


----------



## nielvm

OrcusVaruna said:


> Here ya go, enjoy!


How did you come to these settings? Just on sight or did you measure something?
I've calibrated mine using a meter, the settings are a very different.

Of course, if you like the end result, do not change a thing


----------



## bfore1

OrcusVaruna said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm using your settings too. Thanks for the hard work and for sharing! If I understand this correctly you use preset 3 in "image preset mode" and you leave super resolution and detail enhancement alone?


----------



## avscottso

Bulb replacement:

My 5040UB is creeping up on 1500 hours on its first bulb and I want to prepare for having spares on hand. I've seen a video for how to replace just the bulb, instead of replacing the bulb assembly. Seems like a waste to replace the entire assembly, and it's pretty easy to do, plus it's about 3-5 times the cost of bulb only.

Have any of you other 5040 owners replaced just the bulb?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

bfore1 said:


> I'm using your settings too. Thanks for the hard work and for sharing! If I understand this correctly you use preset 3 in "image preset mode" and you leave super resolution and detail enhancement alone?




You’re welcome glad they are working out well for you! And yes leave the default values I just posted as you can edit them in effect changing the preset. So if you had done that previously on accident you would know the exact values I was referencing for super resolution, fine detail, etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Viche said:


> How’s the image quality of the silver ticket compared to the da-lite: black levels, color, resolution?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, can you tell me where you got the single shelf TV cabinet under your screen? I’ve been looking for something like that. Do you mind all the lights from your equipment facing you? How does it vent - open in the back?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




In a dark room the silver ticket matte white screen is ridiculously good for the price. Shoot the guy over at the wire cutter essentially said that he would not buy his studiotek 130 again and invest the savings in a better projector that’s how neutral the silver ticket matte white screen is. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

nielvm said:


> How did you come to these settings? Just on sight or did you measure something?
> 
> I've calibrated mine using a meter, the settings are a very different.
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, if you like the end result, do not change a thing




The bright room settings were more or less calibrated by sight and tweaked once I got the meter and for obvious reasons I see no need to go any further with them as they are good enough. The dark room settings however were done with my meter. I would wholly expect them to be very different though as I am using a high gain alr screen (that imparts a strong green and blue shift to the image) in a white room. I am also new to calibrating hdr so I picked my battles and mainly stuck with my existing gamma curve and did most of the tweaking via the color menus as the gamma graph makes me want to rip the projector off the wall and throw it in the ocean lol Overall I am very happy with the picture in my environment and shared the settings as something for people to try, critique, and offer their opinions on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

I especially found your contrast of 41 with sdr a bit strange...

HDR is trial and error imo...


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

sddp said:


> Your room, speakers layout and cabinets is very similar to mine. I have a 150" edgefree 16:9 and have thought about/wanting to go 2:35.
> 
> 
> What draw backs have you noticed?
> 
> I game a lot, but Friday nights is Movie nights almost 52 weeks a year. I have noticed that a LARGE amount of films are now in 2:35.
> 
> The one thing I've noticed doing the math is you loose more real estate watching watching a 16:9 on a 2:35 (meaning there's more black bars on the sides) than the other way around.
> 
> Any advice, input, suggestions would be greatly appreciated


I have 120" 16:9 AT screen with 3.5" black velvet surround. For wide AR's, I have the 5040 lens memory set for 2.2, 2.35 and 2.5. Those settings move the top of the image to the top of the screen. (I use a fourth setting to return it to 1.78, or centered.) Then I have a single mask for the lower part of the screen. It's made of 2 layers of thin foam board, about 8" x the screen width. It's covered in black velvet with extra hanging down. It has Velcro at each end, and inside the frame are matching Velcro pads at the three correct places. It's easy to use and lets me fully frame wide movies. Cheers


----------



## OrcusVaruna

...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

nielvm said:


> I especially found your contrast of 41 with sdr a bit strange...
> 
> 
> 
> HDR is trial and error imo...




I always undershoot on contrast for video games as I play a lot of FPS and tend to miss things in bright areas if I don’t undershoot. Also ime the effect on undershooting by 5-10 on contrast looks stark when using patterns but is far more subtle once you switch to video. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avscottso

When replacing the "bulb", replace the bulb assembly? or only the bare bulb?


----------



## jt7272

avscottso said:


> When replacing the "bulb", replace the bulb assembly? or only the bare bulb?


When you purchase a genuine lamp it will be installed inside the assembly. This assembly+lamp is what you should be changing.

It is possible to buy a bare bulb and install it in the housing but I would not recommend it. Your chances of finding a bare bulb which is legit is not good. And the likelihood that you install it properly without damaging it is also not good.

I am pretty handy and I like to experiment but even I would not try this. There is some risk that you may damage the projector.


----------



## nielvm

A genuine lamp with assembly costs around €130 on the Epson website(Europe).

Can't see why you would risk assembling a bare lamp for that price...


----------



## avscottso

nielvm said:


> A genuine lamp with assembly costs around €130 on the Epson website(Europe).
> 
> Can't see why you would risk assembling a bare lamp for that price...


Thanks for the replies.

When I called Epson (USA) they wouldn't sell me a lamp assembly and recommended I purchase from my dealer. I'm skeptical about what I see on Amazon even though I am a frequent buyer in that arena.

The only risk I see is getting the correct exact replacement for either a assembly or bare bulb. It's really easy to replace the bulb inside the assembly as I've seen in a video. Takes about as much time as removing the headlight assembly on my Porsche and replacing the bulb, and it's a very similar process.

Additionally, I see replacing the assembly as a waste. That said, I've ordered a lamp assembly from my dealer for $250, discounted from $299, which is about the same as most so called legitimate looking dealers on Amazon. Next time around I'll order just a bulb once I see which bulb it really is inside the original lamp from Epson.


----------



## Mr.G

avscottso said:


> Additionally, I see replacing the assembly as a waste. That said, I've ordered a lamp assembly from my dealer for $250, discounted from $299, which is about the same as most so called legitimate looking dealers on Amazon. Next time around I'll order just a bulb once I see which bulb it really is inside the original lamp from Epson.


$250 is a decent price although Provantage (my favorite OEM lamp vendor) sells it for $233.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avscottso said:


> Thanks for the replies.
> 
> 
> 
> When I called Epson (USA) they wouldn't sell me a lamp assembly and recommended I purchase from my dealer. I'm skeptical about what I see on Amazon even though I am a frequent buyer in that arena.
> 
> 
> 
> The only risk I see is getting the correct exact replacement for either a assembly or bare bulb. It's really easy to replace the bulb inside the assembly as I've seen in a video. Takes about as much time as removing the headlight assembly on my Porsche and replacing the bulb, and it's a very similar process.
> 
> 
> 
> Additionally, I see replacing the assembly as a waste. That said, I've ordered a lamp assembly from my dealer for $250, discounted from $299, which is about the same as most so called legitimate looking dealers on Amazon. Next time around I'll order just a bulb once I see which bulb it really is inside the original lamp from Epson.




The problem with the bare bulb is if you get any oil from your skin on it or seat it slightly wrong you could cause a stress point on the halogen bulb causing it to explode. When a bulb bursts like that you could permanently damage the lcd panels or other critical equipment. For me the risk is not worth it on a $3000 projector. Now my $299 acer projector I carry around for business yes I have purchased just a bare bulb many times since the genuine acer replacement costs as much as the darn projector. But even with this I have had multiple bulbs burst and gotten lucky they haven’t damaged anything. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avscottso

OrcusVaruna said:


> The problem with the bare bulb is if you get any oil from your skin on it or seat it slightly wrong you could cause a stress point on the halogen bulb causing it to explode. When a bulb bursts like that you could permanently damage the lcd panels or other critical equipment. For me the risk is not worth it on a $3000 projector. Now my $299 acer projector I carry around for business yes I have purchased just a bare bulb many times since the genuine acer replacement costs as much as the darn projector. But even with this I have had multiple bulbs burst and gotten lucky they haven’t damaged anything.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You see? That's why these forums are a great way of spreading knowledge! I had no idea that bulbs could explode like that. Enough said. I'll just do what I knew to be the case when I bought my first projector, budget the $300 a year for the lamp. Thanks for all the responses.


----------



## bfore1

Help me understand this. I have directv 4k with epson 5040. When I watch one of the 4k channels, image enhancement is greyed out. But if I watch a regular HD channel image enhancement is available.

Is that correct? 1st pic is 4k channel...2nd is golf channel.









Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


----------



## evilmonstertruk

Yes. Image enhancement is to help with softness. 4k signals aren't going to be soft and also enhancing 4k is probably alot harder to do

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## avscottso

bfore1 said:


> Help me understand this. I have directv 4k with epson 5040. When I watch one of the 4k channels, image enhancement is greyed out. But if I watch a regular HD channel image enhancement is available.
> 
> Is that correct? 1st pic is 4k channel...2nd is golf channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


I believe this happens because the non-4K channel "can" be enhanced, so the 5040 offers that choice. But if the signal is "already" 4K, then the 5040 can't do any better and shows it at its version of 4K. I've noticed this also when viewing 4K content.

edit: oops, evilmonstertruk beat me to the punch with a good explanation. I'm a slow typer.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

bfore1 said:


> Help me understand this. I have directv 4k with epson 5040. When I watch one of the 4k channels, image enhancement is greyed out. But if I watch a regular HD channel image enhancement is available.
> 
> Is that correct? 1st pic is 4k channel...2nd is golf channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk




4K enhancement is separate from image enhancement. 4Ke is basically the turning on of the pixel shift function of the projector. This is grayed out on a native 4K source because it’s already activated when the projector detects a native 4K signal. With a regular HD source you have the option to engage or not engage 4Ke. Now the image enhancement settings are basically a fine adjustment for the aggressiveness of the 4Ke pixel shifting. The higher the settings the more aggressive the shifting the more detailed the image. The downside of this is the higher you go the more noise the projector introduces via artificial sharpening. I think most of us have found that it’s best to keep 4Ke off on non 4K sources and to run image enhancement preset 2 or 3 for native 4K sources. Hope that helps 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bfore1

OrcusVaruna said:


> 4K enhancement is separate from image enhancement. 4Ke is basically the turning on of the pixel shift function of the projector. This is grayed out on a native 4K source because it’s already activated when the projector detects a native 4K signal. With a regular HD source you have the option to engage or not engage 4Ke. Now the image enhancement settings are basically a fine adjustment for the aggressiveness of the 4Ke pixel shifting. The higher the settings the more aggressive the shifting the more detailed the image. The downside of this is the higher you go the more noise the projector introduces via artificial sharpening. I think most of us have found that it’s best to keep 4Ke off on non 4K sources and to run image enhancement preset 2 or 3 for native 4K sources. Hope that helps
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes it does, thanks! 

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

So most people here turn off 4ke for regular Blu-ray and all non 4K content?


----------



## ccotenj

bluer101 said:


> So most people here turn off 4ke for regular Blu-ray and all non 4K content?


i don’t, but it is a personal preference. i use it almost all the time.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

bluer101 said:


> So most people here turn off 4ke for regular Blu-ray and all non 4K content?




I find that the image scaler in the 5040 is utter s***. You can readily see this by playing a regular blu-ray on a 4K capable player (say an Xbox one x). 1st try playing it with the output set to 1080p and turning on 4Ke. Next set the Xbox to force a 4K up-conversion prior to sending the image to the projector (forcing the Xbox to do the scaling vs the projector) and compare. I guarantee you will not enable 4Ke on 1080p sources after the exercise, the epsons scaling capabilities are that bad. And this is using one of the worst 4K upscaling devices going, the results are even more stark if using an oppo udp or Apple TV 4K. It really is an oddity in the software of the 5040 as the processing and scaling of an incoming 4K signal is truly superb. I’m kind of shocked epson never fixed this with a firmware update. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ccotenj

^ 

i find it to be utter gah-bage as well. it is a bit surprising, considering all the “good” things about this pj that it has such crappy processing. and it is REALLY crappy.

i get FAR better results by either letting the apple tv or the avr do the processing.

ymmv.


----------



## bluer101

OrcusVaruna said:


> I find that the image scaler in the 5040 is utter s***. You can readily see this by playing a regular blu-ray on a 4K capable player (say an Xbox one x). 1st try playing it with the output set to 1080p and turning on 4Ke. Next set the Xbox to force a 4K up-conversion prior to sending the image to the projector (forcing the Xbox to do the scaling vs the projector) and compare. I guarantee you will not enable 4Ke on 1080p sources after the exercise, the epsons scaling capabilities are that bad. And this is using one of the worst 4K upscaling devices going, the results are even more stark if using an oppo udp or Apple TV 4K. It really is an oddity in the software of the 5040 as the processing and scaling of an incoming 4K signal is truly superb. I’m kind of shocked epson never fixed this with a firmware update.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





ccotenj said:


> ^
> 
> i find it to be utter gah-bage as well. it is a bit surprising, considering all the “good” things about this pj that it has such crappy processing. and it is REALLY crappy.
> 
> i get FAR better results by either letting the apple tv or the avr do the processing.
> 
> ymmv.


I have not used my PJ for watching in almost a year. I was in the process of buying a house and full remodel. I did recently test for image size in my dedicated theater I’m currently building. So this is news to me, thank you. I only feed my Epson from my Oppo 103d and now in my rack Oppo 203. Both are waiting for the theater to be done. So what do you recommend for both of my oppos.


----------



## ccotenj

bluer101 said:


> I have not used my PJ for watching in almost a year. I was in the process of buying a house and full remodel. I did recently test for image size in my dedicated theater I’m currently building. So this is news to me, thank you. I only feed my Epson from my Oppo 103d and now in my rack Oppo 203. Both are waiting for the theater to be done. So what do you recommend for both of my oppos.


i own neither, by the time i got around to setting up for 4k, oppo had closed their doors. my old bdp-83 is now in my wife’s kingdom, and i have a sony player in the main room, as i still need sacd support. 

that being said, i would place a large wager that you’d be better off doing as much processing in the oppo as you can.


----------



## bfore1

Another question. The HDMI Video range is available sometimes but I cant figure out the pattern. What is it and why is it grey?









Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


----------



## gaming09

well, My 5040ub US model that i purchased in march wouldn't turn on this morning. No warnings no lights just dead. Of course its Saturday and Epson requires adv support to process an RMA ... pretty disappointing

More so dissapointed i dont have my settings written down anywhere, i had it dialed in. Stupid of me, i wont make the same mistake twice. 

I dont get how the psu went down i had it on the best surge i could find, on its own circuit back to the panel too


----------



## seplant

OrcusVaruna said:


> I find that the image scaler in the 5040 is utter s***. You can readily see this by playing a regular blu-ray on a 4K capable player (say an Xbox one x). 1st try playing it with the output set to 1080p and turning on 4Ke. Next set the Xbox to force a 4K up-conversion prior to sending the image to the projector (forcing the Xbox to do the scaling vs the projector) and compare. I guarantee you will not enable 4Ke on 1080p sources after the exercise, the epsons scaling capabilities are that bad. And this is using one of the worst 4K upscaling devices going, the results are even more stark if using an oppo udp or Apple TV 4K. It really is an oddity in the software of the 5040 as the processing and scaling of an incoming 4K signal is truly superb. I’m kind of shocked epson never fixed this with a firmware update.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Definitely YMMV. I get excellent results with my 6040 upscaling 1080p content from my TiVo Premiere 4.


----------



## WynsWrld98

gaming09 said:


> well, My 5040ub US model that i purchased in march wouldn't turn on this morning. No warnings no lights just dead. Of course its Saturday and Epson requires adv support to process an RMA ... pretty disappointing
> 
> More so dissapointed i dont have my settings written down anywhere, i had it dialed in. Stupid of me, i wont make the same mistake twice.
> 
> I dont get how the psu went down i had it on the best surge i could find, on its own circuit back to the panel too


Sad. With all of the reports of problems just a poorly designed power supply evidently. Let's hope they put a rock solid design in the 5050/6050 I'm guessing to be announced at CEDIA 9/2018.


----------



## avscottso

WynsWrld98 said:


> Sad. With all of the reports of problems just a poorly designed power supply evidently. Let's hope they put a rock solid design in the 5050/6050 I'm guessing to be announced at CEDIA 9/2018.


Is there any way to track if it's production runs within ranges of serial numbers, or all 5040/6040 models? In other words, the same power supply for all of our projectors without any revision?


----------



## dimi123

bfore1 said:


> Another question. The HDMI Video range is available sometimes but I cant figure out the pattern. What is it and why is it grey?


If EPSON Super White is enabled then HDMI Video Range is grayed out.


----------



## roland6465

gaming09 said:


> well, My 5040ub US model that i purchased in march wouldn't turn on this morning. No warnings no lights just dead. Of course its Saturday and Epson requires adv support to process an RMA ... pretty disappointing
> 
> More so dissapointed i dont have my settings written down anywhere, i had it dialed in. Stupid of me, i wont make the same mistake twice.
> 
> I dont get how the psu went down i had it on the best surge i could find, on its own circuit back to the panel too


Let the refurb roulette begin! Sorry to hear about that, though. And it's not your power configuration, trust me. It's on Epson. I had 2 die on me plugged into a Monster outlet conditioner which was plugged into a hospital-grade protected outlet.


----------



## descalabro

bfore1 said:


> Another question. The HDMI Video range is available sometimes but I cant figure out the pattern. What is it and why is it grey?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


Yes, as @dimi123 pointed out, it will be available depending on the image mode you choose.

Usually, the simple answer is that you'll get deeper blacks if you disable it, but after watching a lot of movies without the HDMI extended range I understood that was a misconception: what it does when enabled is that it will bring up all sorts of gradations and detail between de darkest and the brightest tones; so it will add grey tones on a lot of areas, thus making the whole image look brighter and a bit washed out. If you disable it, all those gradations will be replaced by darker tones with less contrast detail. Now, the misconception here is in thinking that blacks will be deeper if you disable it, which will not: extended HDMI range will not add brightness to the darkest pixels, although the whole image will be brighter because of all the grey gradations now visible.

So, in order to keep all the detail of the HDMI extended range you'll have to:

- increase contrast to eliminate some of the washed-out greys; you'll sacrifice some of the detail but the image will be a lot more punchy and dynamic;
- decrease brightness so that the whole image will look better on the darker areas and also not overly bright on the white areas — keep in mind you'll still have a lot of gradation detail from the HDMI extended range;
- increase saturation until vibrant tones pop up again.

Now, this has all been tested with an Epson EH-TW3600, so you'll get much better results in either mode with your projector.

One great movie to test this with is «Annihilation», because it's very demanding both contrast and color-wise. I had whole areas of the image almost disappearing into black when I disabled the HDMI extended range.


----------



## bluer101

roland6465 said:


> Let the refurb roulette begin! Sorry to hear about that, though. And it's not your power configuration, trust me. It's on Epson. I had 2 die on me plugged into a Monster outlet conditioner which was plugged into a hospital-grade protected outlet.


I’m surprised Epson has not put out a bulletin. I understand that here at avs we represent a small fraction on units but there has to be something wrong with these supplies. With less than 100 hours on mine due to moving and now working on dedicated theater I’m coming up in January on my 2 year warranty. If it fails after I will be pissed if they don’t fix it. 

Can we buy an alternative power supply and install ourselves?


----------



## roland6465

bluer101 said:


> I’m surprised Epson has not put out a bulletin. I understand that here at avs we represent a small fraction on units but there has to be something wrong with these supplies. With less than 100 hours on mine due to moving and now working on dedicated theater I’m coming up in January on my 2 year warranty. If it fails after I will be pissed if they don’t fix it.
> 
> Can we buy an alternative power supply and install ourselves?


I asked a similar question months ago but the thread was flying and I didn't get an answer. There are authorized Epson repair shops. I wonder if you could take an out of warranty unit to one of them and get a more stable power supply installed?


----------



## ricwhite

roland6465 said:


> I asked a similar question months ago but the thread was flying and I didn't get an answer. There are authorized Epson repair shops. I wonder if you could take an out of warranty unit to one of them and get a more stable power supply installed?


It's a lot more complicated than a "power supply." It has to do with many components leading UP TO the power supply.


----------



## descalabro

bluer101 said:


> I’m surprised Epson has not put out a bulletin. I understand that here at avs we represent a small fraction on units but there has to be something wrong with these supplies. With less than 100 hours on mine due to moving and now working on dedicated theater I’m coming up in January on my 2 year warranty. If it fails after I will be pissed if they don’t fix it.
> 
> Can we buy an alternative power supply and install ourselves?


There is, and there is a whole thread about it. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2956744-epson-5040-6040-9300-uk-power-supply-failure-rate.html With 80 units, there's a 33% failure rate, which is significant. I suppose it's not enough for a large company like Epson to do anything about it, but at least I hope that units being made by now come with this issue fixed.


----------



## jwhn

descalabro said:


> There is, and there is a whole thread about it. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...0-6040-9300-uk-power-supply-failure-rate.html With 80 units, there's a 33% failure rate, which is significant. I suppose it's not enough for a large company like Epson to do anything about it, but at least I hope that units being made by now come with this issue fixed.



A poll like that is going to have a significant bias to it. If you look at amazon reviews you will be a far more accurate picture because it's not a thread dedicated to power supply issues. Someone in that thread looked at it and if I remember correctly the failure rate was in the single digits. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## descalabro

jwhn said:


> A poll like that is going to have a significant bias to it. If you look at amazon reviews you will be a far more accurate picture because it's not a thread dedicated to power supply issues. Someone in that thread looked at it and if I remember correctly the failure rate was in the single digits.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, there's that: people affected by the issue are more likely to go look for such a thread. But I wouldn't trust reviews on Amazon for this particular matter, as many buyers are eager to leave positive reviews of products they've recently bought. Still, there's a 10% of users reporting this issue on Amazon, and that's still too much.


----------



## jwhn

descalabro said:


> Yes, there's that: people affected by the issue are more likely to go look for such a thread. But I wouldn't trust reviews on Amazon for this particular matter, as many buyers are eager to leave positive reviews of products they've recently bought. Still, there's a 10% of users reporting this issue on Amazon, and that's still too much.



I agree that amazon is also biased (but less so) in that most studies have shown that people are more likely to leave negative reviews vs. positive reviews by a factor of 2 or 3. So that would reduce the 10% to 3.33% to 5%. 

But to really know would require a truly random sampling of owners. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kenmid

Pretty simple question I'm sure it's been asked in this thread, I have a Epson 5030 in dedicated dark media room Should I upgrade to 5040 I have a Shield 4k and regular Xbox One for streaming and used Plex for watching movies?


----------



## bluer101

descalabro said:


> There is, and there is a whole thread about it. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2956744-epson-5040-6040-9300-uk-power-supply-failure-rate.html With 80 units, there's a 33% failure rate, which is significant. I suppose it's not enough for a large company like Epson to do anything about it, but at least I hope that units being made by now come with this issue fixed.


Epson put out a bulletin about the issue in that thread?

I know that thread is there but I’m asking why the heck have they not addressed it properly.


----------



## descalabro

bluer101 said:


> Epson put out a bulletin about the issue in that thread?
> 
> I know that thread is there but I’m asking why the heck have they not addressed it properly.


Sorry, I've misunderstood you.


----------



## jpgfontes

kenmid said:


> Pretty simple question I'm sure it's been asked in this thread, I have a Epson 5030 in dedicated dark media room Should I upgrade to 5040 I have a Shield 4k and regular Xbox One for streaming and used Plex for watching movies?


If you can, wait for the next one. 5040 is a great projector, but has been out for a while now. The substitute should be around the corner and probably will address the 10.2GB limitation and hopefully will get rid of the color filter that steals a lot of lumens to achieve the REC2020 standard.

If the 5030 is working properly, I would wait for the next one.

Just my opinion.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jpgfontes said:


> If you can, wait for the next one. 5040 is a great projector, but has been out for a while now. The substitute should be around the corner and probably will address the 10.2GB limitation and hopefully will get rid of the color filter that steals a lot of lumens to achieve the REC2020 standard.
> 
> 
> 
> If the 5030 is working properly, I would wait for the next one.
> 
> 
> 
> Just my opinion.




Agreed I expect the next one to have 18gbps and achieve 2020 without the filter like jvc but we shall see. The 5040 is so good that the next upgrade may only address 18gbps and some internal components specifically the power supply. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

OrcusVaruna said:


> Agreed I expect the next one to have 18gbps and achieve 2020 without the filter like jvc but we shall see. The 5040 is so good that the next upgrade may only address 18gbps and some internal components specifically the power supply.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So are you going to trade up OV? I will certainly miss you , unless of course Epson allows us to trade-in, based on the 5040/6040 power issues.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## OrcusVaruna

bluer101 said:


> I’m surprised Epson has not put out a bulletin. I understand that here at avs we represent a small fraction on units but there has to be something wrong with these supplies. With less than 100 hours on mine due to moving and now working on dedicated theater I’m coming up in January on my 2 year warranty. If it fails after I will be pissed if they don’t fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> Can we buy an alternative power supply and install ourselves?




Like others have said it’s not just the power supply. From my many hours of screaming at epson customer service and politely talking to some engineers the whole electrical system has issues mainly stemming from a bad run of capacitors that were installed in nearly a years worth of units. That has since been corrected but somehow a batch of the bad ones made it back into the refurbished projectors for a few months leading to many of us having multiple returns for the power supply. I received my newest one at the end of March and I’m still going strong now. I do have some panel irregularities on this one but it’s not bad enough for me to return it and play roulette again lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Azekecse said:


> So are you going to trade up OV? I will certainly miss you
> 
> 
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> 
> 
> Azeke




Not until this one dies or until we get true 4K one with a 5000 lumen led or laser light source! The image this one puts out is plenty good enough for me lol. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

OrcusVaruna said:


> Not until this one dies or until we get true 4K one with a 5000 lumen led or laser light source! The image this one puts out is plenty good enough for me lol.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I concur sir...just checking.


----------



## bluer101

OrcusVaruna said:


> Like others have said it’s not just the power supply. From my many hours of screaming at epson customer service and politely talking to some engineers the whole electrical system has issues mainly stemming from a bad run of capacitors that were installed in nearly a years worth of units. That has since been corrected but somehow a batch of the bad ones made it back into the refurbished projectors for a few months leading to many of us having multiple returns for the power supply. I received my newest one at the end of March and I’m still going strong now. I do have some panel irregularities on this one but it’s not bad enough for me to return it and play roulette again lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Than you, do we have a date range of manufactured units?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

bluer101 said:


> Than you, do we have a date range of manufactured units?




Nope was never able to get date and serial number ranges 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NetViper

What ceiling mounts are you guys using? Looking for something a little better than my $30 mount.


----------



## gene4ht

NetViper said:


> What ceiling mounts are you guys using? Looking for something a little better than my $30 mount.


Here you go...more than a little bit better...the best!

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-479.html#post56139048


----------



## WynsWrld98

OrcusVaruna said:


> Nope was never able to get date and serial number ranges
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They wouldn't want to reveal it because then those owners would probably go after Epson together (e.g., class action lawsuit).


----------



## OrcusVaruna

WynsWrld98 said:


> They wouldn't want to reveal it because then those owners would probably go after Epson together (e.g., class action lawsuit).



Either an extended warranty or a reduced entry price to the next model would be very welcome. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

OrcusVaruna said:


> Either an extended warranty or a reduced entry price to the next model would be very welcome.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Or both...

Acknowledgement and transparency would be a good start...followed by an extended warranty much like Onkyo’s HDMI failure program would reap huge benefits in restoring and promoting consumer confidence in the product and organization...as well as ensuring potential sales.


----------



## monkaquinas

*4k Infrastructure Upgrades*

Morning all,

Been following the forum since the beginning of the year as I was planning to get the 5040UB. I finally did so, thanks to all the great info posted, in April. My Receiver and Sources (routed thru it) are still HD (PS3, FIOS, & Onkyo TX-SR707) but I just purchased a Denon 4k Receiver. I ran a new 50' 4k HDR active cable, tested it from the PS3 beforehand and it worked, even 3d. I am dying to swap out the receiver but wanted to do so only after getting confirmation from you.

I don't have any 4k sources, waiting for the new Panasonic UB820 4k player. I'd like to enjoy some 3d content from my PS3, in the meantime, after I swap out the receivers. Do I simply plug the new 4k cable into HDMI1 (all HD sources thru my receiver)? Can I remove my old HDMI cable? Do I need to run the new 4k cable into HDMI2, since I have no true 4k? I just don't want to tear out the old run, if I still need it in this transition period. Thanks!!


----------



## roland6465

monkaquinas said:


> Morning all,
> 
> Been following the forum since the beginning of the year as I was planning to get the 5040UB. I finally did so, thanks to all the great info posted, in April. My Receiver and Sources (routed thru it) are still HD (PS3, FIOS, & Onkyo TX-SR707) but I just purchased a Denon 4k Receiver. I ran a new 50' 4k HDR active cable, tested it from the PS3 beforehand and it worked, even 3d. I am dying to swap out the receiver but wanted to do so only after getting confirmation from you.
> 
> I don't have any 4k sources, waiting for the new Panasonic UB820 4k player. I'd like to enjoy some 3d content from my PS3, in the meantime, after I swap out the receivers. Do I simply plug the new 4k cable into HDMI1 (all HD sources thru my receiver)? Can I remove my old HDMI cable? Do I need to run the new 4k cable into HDMI2, since I have no true 4k? I just don't want to tear out the old run, if I still need it in this transition period. Thanks!!


You can go from the AVR into HDMI1 no problem. And you can use your old cable to fish the new one through the walls/ceiling. A little electrical tape and you're good to go.


----------



## monkaquinas

roland6465 said:


> You can go from the AVR into HDMI1 no problem. And you can use your old cable to fish the new one through the walls/ceiling. A little electrical tape and you're good to go.


Thanks, that's what I thought but; I started second guessing myself and knew if I wanted to be sure I should throw it out at the forum. Looking forward to some 3d content and eventually 4k HDR.


----------



## NetViper

gene4ht said:


> Here you go...more than a little bit better...the best!
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-di...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-479.html#post56139048


Thank you. I’ll check it out.


----------



## Azekecse

gene4ht said:


> Here you go...more than a little bit better...the best!
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-479.html#post56139048


I concur, this came with my 6040 and it's definitely the best I've ever owned, built like a tank. Make sure you mount into the studs, I would not recommend anchor bolts.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Bradskey

Review from a casual user here.


Now that the prices have come a little out of the stratosphere I recently bought the 5040ub from BB for about $2200, and with a couple hundred in CC bonus cash back it was even cheaper. This is my first projector. After I bought it a friend was telling me about BenQ having "true" 4K at a lower price point now, but when I look at the features and image quality I'm not sorry about my decision. Now I don't have a dedicated theater room or space, and this thing will not be mounted. I bought a cheap (like


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Bradskey said:


> Review from a casual user here.
> 
> 
> Now that the prices have come a little out of the stratosphere I recently bought the 5040ub from BB for about $2200, and with a couple hundred in CC bonus cash back it was even cheaper. This is my first projector. After I bought it a friend was telling me about BenQ having "true" 4K at a lower price point now, but when I look at the features and image quality I'm not sorry about my decision. Now I don't have a dedicated theater room or space, and this thing will not be mounted. I bought a cheap (like


----------



## westbergjoakim

If I have Lens Iris at 0, is it then fully open or closed? I have seen calibrated settings some months ago, but have it come any new "recommended" settings since?

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## ccotenj

@OrcusVaruna.

what mount is that? i like that much better than the shelf mine is on now.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

ccotenj said:


> @OrcusVaruna.
> 
> 
> 
> what mount is that? i like that much better than the shelf mine is on now.




It’s an older version of the mount below and I made a custom mounting plate out of 1/4” plywood bolted to the mounting bracket. You just have to be sure you hit studs when you mount it as articulating 30lbs perpendicular on dry wall would end up poorly overall im very happy with how it turned out. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ccotenj

OrcusVaruna said:


> It’s an older version of the mount below and I made a custom mounting plate out of 1/4” plywood bolted to the mounting bracket. You just have to be sure you hit studs when you mount it as articulating 30lbs perpendicular on dry wall would end up poorly overall im very happy with how it turned out.


cool, thanks!

yeah, i hear you on the studs. that would end up in a tragedy if mounted directly to drywall (or in my case, plaster).


----------



## westbergjoakim

Hey!

I have a question about which one you guys think should handle the picture when watching movies at/from my computer in [email protected] I only watch in 1080p atm.

I have Pioneer SC-95 with a HTPC/computer with a GeForce GT 610 and Epson 6040ub connected to it.

When watching movies or series, should I have V.Conv enabled in my receiver or let the projector process the picture?

When I have it turned off, I get RGB-video 12bit (RGB [email protected]) and when enabled Component 4:4:4 12bit. 

Which one should handle it and give me best PQ? Thanks! 

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## monkaquinas

roland6465 said:


> You can go from the AVR into HDMI1 no problem. And you can use your old cable to fish the new one through the walls/ceiling. A little electrical tape and you're good to go.


So, I was able to scratch my digital itch and replace my old non-4k receiver this weekend. I connected my new 4k cable into HDMI1 and it failed to display anything, NO SIGNAL. If I connected it to HDMI2, everything worked through the receiver. I don't have a true 4K source at this moment. I did some reading thru the Manual (Online PDF...miss the old printed manuals) and I found a setting in the Denon for 4k Std or Enhanced. It's currently set to Std, If I have time, I'm going to change it and plug into HDMI1. I really hope that if it doesn't work and go back to HDMI2, it will still work...or I'm about to loose my various audio settings if I have to reset to default. 

Anyone out there familiar with Denon 4k Std and Enhanced?


----------



## nonstopdoc1

Anyone here had their Epson 5040/6040 professionally calibrated? How much improvement did you see and how much light does it put out after calibration?


----------



## AdamAttewell

Just going to start calibrating my 6040 & am trying to setup brightness but I am finding black is being clipped by the projector when displaying a flashing brightness pluge pattern.


Using the AVS 709 disc all levels from 16 down are not visible no matter what I set the brightness to.



I know it is not my source device as I have tested in on my TV as it displays the full range, setting "HDMI Video Range" to expanded resolves the issue but is this the correct setting?


What is everyone else running? Expanded or Normal?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> Just going to start calibrating my 6040 & am trying to setup brightness but I am finding black is being clipped by the projector when displaying a flashing brightness pluge pattern.
> 
> 
> Using the AVS 709 disc all levels from 16 down are not visible no matter what I set the brightness to.
> 
> 
> 
> I know it is not my source device as I have tested in on my TV as it displays the full range, setting "HDMI Video Range" to expanded resolves the issue but is this the correct setting?
> 
> 
> What is everyone else running? Expanded or Normal?




Try disabling the auto iris. Flashing patterns mess with it causing brightness pumping and obscuring near black detail. Originally I used auto for range but recalibrated forcing the projector to expanded range recently and am happy with the results. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ccotenj

monkaquinas said:


> So, I was able to scratch my digital itch and replace my old non-4k receiver this weekend. I connected my new 4k cable into HDMI1 and it failed to display anything, NO SIGNAL. If I connected it to HDMI2, everything worked through the receiver. I don't have a true 4K source at this moment. I did some reading thru the Manual (Online PDF...miss the old printed manuals) and I found a setting in the Denon for 4k Std or Enhanced. It's currently set to Std, If I have time, I'm going to change it and plug into HDMI1. I really hope that if it doesn't work and go back to HDMI2, it will still work...or I'm about to loose my various audio settings if I have to reset to default.
> 
> Anyone out there familiar with Denon 4k Std and Enhanced?


set it to enhanced.


----------



## monkaquinas

ccotenj said:


> set it to enhanced.


I set it to Enhanced, the display blanked out. I moved the HDMI from HDMI 2 to HDMI1 and No Signal still. I unplugged it and plugged it in several times and nothing. I was able to change it back via the LED display and plug into HDMI 2. Is there a setting change I need to perform in the Epson? Any ideas?


----------



## gene4ht

monkaquinas said:


> I set it to Enhanced, the display blanked out. I moved the HDMI from HDMI 2 to HDMI1 and No Signal still. I unplugged it and plugged it in several times and nothing. I was able to change it back via the LED display and plug into HDMI 2. Is there a setting change I need to perform in the Epson? Any ideas?



Have you contacted Epson support?


----------



## roland6465

Plug your source(s) directly to the projector and see if you get a video signal on HDMI1. That would at least rule out the player and cable,


----------



## Dominic Chan

monkaquinas said:


> So, I was able to scratch my digital itch and replace my old non-4k receiver this weekend. I connected my new 4k cable into HDMI1 and it failed to display anything, NO SIGNAL. If I connected it to HDMI2, everything worked through the receiver. I don't have a true 4K source at this moment. I did some reading thru the Manual (Online PDF...miss the old printed manuals) and I found a setting in the Denon for 4k Std or Enhanced. It's currently set to Std, If I have time, I'm going to change it and plug into HDMI1. I really hope that if it doesn't work and go back to HDMI2, it will still work...or I'm about to loose my various audio settings if I have to reset to default.
> 
> Anyone out there familiar with Denon 4k Std and Enhanced?


The two HDMI inputs of the Epson projector are not the same. One is HDCP 2.2 and the other HDCP 1.4.


----------



## aaranddeeman

AdamAttewell said:


> Just going to start calibrating my 6040 & am trying to setup brightness but I am finding black is being clipped by the projector when displaying a flashing brightness pluge pattern.
> 
> 
> Using the AVS 709 disc all levels from 16 down are not visible no matter what I set the brightness to.
> 
> 
> 
> I know it is not my source device as I have tested in on my TV as it displays the full range, setting "HDMI Video Range" to expanded resolves the issue but is this the correct setting?
> 
> 
> What is everyone else running? Expanded or Normal?


Alternatively you can turn Epson superwhite On (in Normal HDMI) if you must see BTB and WTW.


----------



## nielvm

Below 16 shouldn't be visible, don't see the problem...


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Below 16 shouldn't be visible, don't see the problem...



Correct all levels below 16 should not be visible but how am I supposed to correctly set brightness if these levels are just clipped? 



How do I know if the contrast setting is to high if everything below 16 is being hard clipped by the projector?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> Correct all levels below 16 should not be visible but how am I supposed to correctly set brightness if these levels are just clipped?
> 
> 
> 
> How do I know if the contrast setting is to high if everything below 16 is being hard clipped by the projector?




Did you check the player? For instance if you set an Xbox one to 8bit color space it clips btb and wtw info but if you set it to 12bit it displays this information. With the correct player settings I have never had any issues with displaying this info. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> In a dark room the silver ticket matte white screen is ridiculously good for the price. Shoot the guy over at the wire cutter essentially said that he would not buy his studiotek 130 again and invest the savings in a better projector that’s how neutral the silver ticket matte white screen is.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My silver ticket was not even in same league as my stewart cima nueve.

Detail is WAY better on stewart, colors are better and contrast/black levels are out of this world.

Will post those settings in morning from my HDR natural calibration I did. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Will post in morning. Yes gamma and the offests effect eachother a great deal, when Calibrating I went back and forth for hrs to get the gamma to track as good as it does. It's unreal when you do nail it, you will know it when you do.

Contrast also effects gamma


OrcusVaruna said:


> Understood I’m more looking to use them as a different starting point for calibration. I’m particularly interested in your gamma and how it relates to your color management numbers.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> My silver ticket was not even in same league as my stewart cima nueve.
> 
> Detail is WAY better on stewart, colors are better and contrast/black levels are out of this world.
> 
> Will post those settings in morning from my HDR natural calibration I did.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Great to hear your take Rob, I obviously have not really seen the Stewart’s outside of a showroom environment. Was just sharing what was stated by a professional reviewer. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Will post in morning. Yes gamma and the offests effect eachother a great deal, when Calibrating I went back and forth for hrs to get the gamma to track as good as it does. It's unreal when you do nail it, you will know it when you do.
> 
> Contrast also effects gamma
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Awesome thank you and yes I have gone back and forth for hours as well. Having no prior calibration experience with a meter I generally still feel lost especially with HDR. This projector is particularly difficult, for example it took me about 2 hours to end up with a very similar calibration to the professional one I had done on my tv. I have invested 10 times that on the projector and I’m very happy with the results but I keep wondering if I could get more out of the hdr image. I don’t get this same feeling with my tv, I generally feel I’m getting the best hdr image it’s capable of. As such, I’m looking forward to trying to use your values as a new starting point. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## monkaquinas

monkaquinas said:


> I set it to Enhanced, the display blanked out. I moved the HDMI from HDMI 2 to HDMI1 and No Signal still. I unplugged it and plugged it in several times and nothing. I was able to change it back via the LED display and plug into HDMI 2. Is there a setting change I need to perform in the Epson? Any ideas?


I figured it out, it really pays to wear your glasses to SEE what you're doing. I had it on HDMI 1 this whole time. I don't know why I was thinking I was on HDMI 2, other than it's upside down and the ports are reversed. Anyway, I was able to set enhanced on the Denon and it blinked off and on and still working, showing SDR. Now to wait for the Panasonic UB820...thanks to all for their advice. I felt pretty dumb last night.


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Awesome thank you and yes I have gone back and forth for hours as well. Having no prior calibration experience with a meter I generally still feel lost especially with HDR. This projector is particularly difficult, for example it took me about 2 hours to end up with a very similar calibration to the professional one I had done on my tv. I have invested 10 times that on the projector and I’m very happy with the results but I keep wondering if I could get more out of the hdr image. I don’t get this same feeling with my tv, I generally feel I’m getting the best hdr image it’s capable of. As such, I’m looking forward to trying to use your values as a new starting point.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The gamma is very hard to nail because each control effects a different part at same time. Plus you can use superwhite and contrast. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

I think I asked this before. With my theater build getting almost done I need hdmi cables. I have my new Oppo 203 which needs a new cable. Can anyone suggest a cable 30ft that will work correctly. Straight from Oppo to Epson. 

I just need to run the hdmi cables through my soffits and want a right choice.


----------



## roland6465

bluer101 said:


> I think I asked this before. With my theater build getting almost done I need hdmi cables. I have my new Oppo 203 which needs a new cable. Can anyone suggest a cable 30ft that will work correctly. Straight from Oppo to Epson.
> 
> I just need to run the hdmi cables through my soffits and want a right choice.


I use this fiber optic one from Sewell. My run is about 25', and the shortest 40' one works perfectly. Price is right, as well.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

bluer101 said:


> I think I asked this before. With my theater build getting almost done I need hdmi cables. I have my new Oppo 203 which needs a new cable. Can anyone suggest a cable 30ft that will work correctly. Straight from Oppo to Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> I just need to run the hdmi cables through my soffits and want a right choice.




I agree with Roland fiber optic hdmi’s or high end active cables are the way to go. I have tried many regular or cheap active cables and have had terrible luck. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

I concur as well with running a fiber optic HDMI, I have a 30ft run and use Celerity Technologies Detachable Fiber Optic HDMI Cable...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


> Did you check the player? For instance if you set an Xbox one to 8bit color space it clips btb and wtw info but if you set it to 12bit it displays this information. With the correct player settings I have never had any issues with displaying this info.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes checked the player & it is outputting the full signal.


----------



## bluer101

Thank you guys. I guess I’m just having a hard time with the cost like years ago with high priced cables. But I guess the fiber cables are in another class.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

bluer101 said:


> Thank you guys. I guess I’m just having a hard time with the cost like years ago with high priced cables. But I guess the fiber cables are in another class.




There is nothing worse then running a 40’ cable through the wall and then half way through your first movie no signal comes across your screen....Fast forward 8hrs and $250 rage spent at Best Buy (on a 35’ monster black platinum cable) and all was right in the world again. Disclaimer that may or may not be a true story 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Awesome thank you and yes I have gone back and forth for hours as well. Having no prior calibration experience with a meter I generally still feel lost especially with HDR. This projector is particularly difficult, for example it took me about 2 hours to end up with a very similar calibration to the professional one I had done on my tv. I have invested 10 times that on the projector and I’m very happy with the results but I keep wondering if I could get more out of the hdr image. I don’t get this same feeling with my tv, I generally feel I’m getting the best hdr image it’s capable of. As such, I’m looking forward to trying to use your values as a new starting point.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here are the settings. This was well over 15hrs and, multiple attempts of Calibrating with i1pro and HCFR

The gamma tracks very close if not right on the 2084 gamma curve in most areas. Contrast clipped around 3400 nits. 

I see highlights I have never seen before and detail is amazing. Best picture I have seen on this projector or in my room. This is not a over saturated picture with tons of bright colors, its accurate colors. 

Keep in mind these settings may not look good in your room, my room and screen may be very different. The faintest light can throw off a Calibration by miles.

Room: dedicated theater, with black walls, black carpet, black ceiling with 0 light.

Screen: Stewart Cima Neueve 156"

Everything I took pics of except gamma as it didn't show the value.

Gamma: 0,2,2,5,21,29,31,31,31









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

robc1976 said:


> Here are the settings. This was well over 15hrs and, multiple attempts of Calibrating with i1pro and HCFR
> 
> The gamma tracks very close if not right on the 2084 gamma curve in most areas. Contrast clipped around 3400 nits.
> 
> I see highlights I have never seen before and detail is amazing. Best picture I have seen on this projector or in my room. This is not a over saturated picture with tons of bright colors, its accurate colors.
> 
> Keep in mind these settings may not look good in your room, my room and screen may be very different. The faintest light can throw off a Calibration by miles.
> 
> Room: dedicated theater, with black walls, black carpet, black ceiling with 0 light.
> 
> Screen: Stewart Cima Neueve 156"
> 
> Everything I took pics of except gamma as it didn't show the value.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the settings
Why is the color temperature set at 6500 when UHD discs are mastered in DCI P3 2020 ?


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> Thanks for the settings
> Why is the color temperature set at 6500 when UHD discs are mastered in DCI P3 2020 ?


Natural mode

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> Thanks for the settings
> Why is the color temperature set at 6500 when UHD discs are mastered in DCI P3 2020 ?


When I 1st saw that I was like WTF? then realized natural is only mode that does that. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Here are the settings. This was well over 15hrs and, multiple attempts of Calibrating with i1pro and HCFR
> 
> The gamma tracks very close if not right on the 2084 gamma curve in most areas. Contrast clipped around 3400 nits.
> 
> I see highlights I have never seen before and detail is amazing. Best picture I have seen on this projector or in my room. This is not a over saturated picture with tons of bright colors, its accurate colors.
> 
> Keep in mind these settings may not look good in your room, my room and screen may be very different. The faintest light can throw off a Calibration by miles.
> 
> Room: dedicated theater, with black walls, black carpet, black ceiling with 0 light.
> 
> Screen: Stewart Cima Neueve 156"
> 
> Everything I took pics of except gamma as it didn't show the value.
> 
> Gamma: 0,2,2,5,21,29,31,31,31
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Thanks Rob I look forward to messing around with these this weekend. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

robc1976 said:


> When I 1st saw that I was like WTF? then realized natural is only mode that does that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


It does and that's why the settings are a bit of a contradiction

In every review i have read *Natural is for Rec.709* hence the 6500 temperature

but you also have color space on Auto which would suggest that using a UHD disc the color space used will be automatically changed to Rec.2020 

but hey happy to give the settings a go even though DCI P3 is being ignored


----------



## Juboy

robc1976 said:


> Here are the settings. This was well over 15hrs and, multiple attempts of Calibrating with i1pro and HCFR



Thank you for this. Just put these into mine and am already blown away by the difference (mainly colours looking much more natural) and detail levels certainly appear to have gained from the new settings. Would be very interested to know what your settings are for Super Resolution and Detail Enhancement.


----------



## BattleAxeVR

For anyone interested, it's confirmed that Epson 5040/6040 replacements are incoming at IFA 2018:

http://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blo...son-eh-tw9400-et-eh-tw9400w-rumeurs-ifa-2018/

Apparently has full 18 gbps HDMI 2.0a inputs, for gamers out there.


----------



## gene4ht

BattleAxeVR said:


> For anyone interested, it's confirmed that Epson 5040/6040 replacements are incoming at IFA 2018:
> 
> http://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blo...son-eh-tw9400-et-eh-tw9400w-rumeurs-ifa-2018/
> 
> Apparently has full 18 gbps HDMI 2.0a inputs, for gamers out there.


 +1

And improved brightness for HDR performance...

The bigger and more important question is...has the source of the power supply failure been adequately and completely addressed and resolved? Epson has never been totally transparent about this. Hmmm....


----------



## ricwhite

BattleAxeVR said:


> For anyone interested, it's confirmed that Epson 5040/6040 replacements are incoming at IFA 2018:
> 
> http://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blo...son-eh-tw9400-et-eh-tw9400w-rumeurs-ifa-2018/
> 
> Apparently has full 18 gbps HDMI 2.0a inputs, for gamers out there.


That is very good news. The 5040 was a total disaster that should have immediately been recalled and discontinued. Now, we will have to wait to see if anyone suffers failures with the new model. I hope they completely redesigned the circuit board. 

From the article, it appears, there is practically no change. It will still be a 4k simulation. They expect some improvements with fluidity. They expect HDR to get some needed support, including higher brightness and 4k HDR 60hz.


----------



## formfollowsf

very disappointing


----------



## drhankz

ricwhite said:


> That is very good news. The 5040 was a total disaster that should have immediately been recalled and discontinued. Now, we will have to wait to see if anyone suffers failures with the new model. I hope they completely redesigned the circuit board.
> 
> From the article, it appears, there is practically no change. It will still be a 4k simulation. They expect some improvements with fluidity. They expect HDR to get some needed support, including higher brightness and 4k HDR 60hz.


*4k HDR 60hz* means it has the highest speed chips for HDMI 2.2 and HDR

*18Gbps* versus 10.2Gbps


----------



## WynsWrld98

5040/6040 doesn't do Frame Interpolation with 4K signals, right? The article implies the successor will? With an 18 GB HDMI chipset I wonder if switching sources/resolution will be painfully slow like the JVCs (multiple model years) with 18 GB HDMI chipset do.


----------



## robc1976

Juboy said:


> Thank you for this. Just put these into mine and am already blown away by the difference (mainly colours looking much more natural) and detail levels certainly appear to have gained from the new settings. Would be very interested to know what your settings are for Super Resolution and Detail Enhancement.


I will post those in a few, I hardly ever mess with that as I feel higher value introduces noise/distortion into image.

The colors I love, lot of settings I noticed over saturate them like crazy. So when you see what they are really supposed to look like your like "those are dull" when actually they are correct. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> It does and that's why the settings are a bit of a contradiction
> 
> In every review i have read *Natural is for Rec.709* hence the 6500 temperature
> 
> but you also have color space on Auto which would suggest that using a UHD disc the color space used will be automatically changed to Rec.2020
> 
> but hey happy to give the settings a go even though DCI P3 is being ignored


I think your will be pleased if your room has same conditions as mine.

Natural mode is what most have the best sucess at, its the only mode that really followed the gamma curve correctly and also has good color accuracy. Especially in the greens.

I did a bright cinnema abd the colors are just out of wack, they are so far out that maxing the CMS controls wouldn't even come close to correcting it and green being the worst.

Natural was also 20nits brighter.

After see what auto bright does to gamma curve I will never use that setting (blows the blacks out and clips gamma at top). Kills white detail ect. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Thanks Rob I look forward to messing around with these this weekend.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Awesome! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

robc1976 said:


> I think your will be pleased if your room has same conditions as mine.
> 
> Natural mode is what most have the best sucess at, its the only mode that really followed the gamma curve correctly and also has good color accuracy. Especially in the greens.
> 
> I did a bright cinnema abd the colors are just out of wack, they are so far out that maxing the CMS controls wouldn't even come close to correcting it and green being the worst.
> 
> Natural was also 20nits brighter.
> 
> After see what auto bright does to gamma curve I will never use that setting (blows the blacks out and clips gamma at top). Kills white detail ect.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Thanks rob
do you find that these settings work well with SDR Blu-ray's as well
As the Epson does not auto switch between HD and UHD it would be great to have a universal setting


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lesmor said:


> Thanks rob
> 
> do you find that these settings work well with SDR Blu-ray's as well
> 
> As the Epson does not auto switch between HD and UHD it would be great to have a universal setting




No the specs are so different from a calibration stand point that you need two different settings for hdr and sdr. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NetViper

drhankz said:


> *4k HDR 60hz* means it has the highest speed chips for HDMI 2.2 and HDR
> 
> *18Gbps* versus 10.2Gbps


Unless they do it like Sony and covert color to 8 bit for this. Same as the linker does. Let’s hope not.


----------



## luismanrara

I believe that Epson for the first time will lose potential buyers and the advantage that they've enjoyed in this price range for a while now, there are a couple of laser-based DLP's and true 4k projectors like the Sony that will start to eat into their sales.

I think the soon to be 3 years old 5040 should have been replaced with a laser model altogether. The projector that I am buying in January of next year *will not be lamp-based*. It seems as if the10.2Gbps situation was intentional to lure people to buy their "upgraded" 2018 model, very disappointed.


----------



## evilmonstertruk

luismanrara said:


> I believe that Epson for the first time will lose potential buyers and the advantage that they've enjoyed in this price range for a while now, there are a couple of laser-based DLP's and true 4k projectors like the Sony that will start to eat into their sales.
> 
> I think the soon to be 3 years old 5040 should have been replaced with a laser model altogether. The projector that I am buying in January of next year *will not be lamp-based*. It seems as if the10.2Gbps situation was intentional to lure people to buy their "upgraded" 2018 model, very disappointed.


Epson will have there 2018 lineup soon. I hope they keep going with 4k shifting and just improve contrast. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## luismanrara

evilmonstertruk said:


> Epson will have there 2018 lineup soon. I hope they keep going with 4k shifting and just improve contrast.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


You lost me.


----------



## evilmonstertruk

luismanrara said:


> You lost me.


There new line up is coming soon. So they may having something with a laser source. No one really knows yet.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

luismanrara said:


> You lost me.




I agree with @evilmonstertruk I could care less about true 4K. e-shift throws plenty of perceived resolution on to the screen. Now a 5000 lumen laser light source I can get behind. For cost reason I would love my next upgrade to be a 1080 e-shift projector with high lumens (5000+) and laser dimming any day. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Lesmor said:


> Thanks rob
> do you find that these settings work well with SDR Blu-ray's as well
> As the Epson does not auto switch between HD and UHD it would be great to have a universal setting


Gamma would be way off, also colors. Doing SDR Calibration.... Will post settings

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## mcallister

Quick question as I’ve found multiple answers from different calculators and want to make determine if this size screen will work.

I’m looking at 150” wide 2:35 due to my ceiling height and masking to 16:9. 5040UB will be mounted at approximately 16.4 feet. Will this be able to fill 150” 2:35 from that distance? Room will be completely black and light controlled by the way.


----------



## Azekecse

mcallister said:


> Quick question as I’ve found multiple answers from different calculators and want to make determine if this size screen will work.
> 
> I’m looking at 150” wide 2:35 due to my ceiling height and masking to 16:9. 5040UB will be mounted at approximately 16.4 feet. Will this be able to fill 150” 2:35 from that distance? Room will be completely black and light controlled by the way.


You'll be fine at that distance, the 5040UB has very good zoom adjustments...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

*Best Blu-Ray player for the 5040UBe*

New UBe owner here and would love to know which Blu-Ray player is most recommended to get the most out of the projector.

thanks!


----------



## WynsWrld98

MAYAmanIGN said:


> New UBe owner here and would love to know which Blu-Ray player is most recommended to get the most out of the projector.
> 
> thanks!


I'm very happy with my Sony X800 includes streaming apps for Netflix and Amazon Prime Video. I also can play DTS:X (MKV) and Atmos (M2TS) with the X800 with a USB drive attached. Another popular option is the Oppo 203 but doesn't include streaming apps if you're into that and costs a lot more. For me the X800 is great bang for the buck with the 5040.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

MAYAmanIGN said:


> New UBe owner here and would love to know which Blu-Ray player is most recommended to get the most out of the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks!




If you enjoy gaming at all I’d recommend the xbox one x. On the blu-ray side I have to give Microsoft credit for working hard on the Blu-ray player as it was a total disaster when released. Now though 4K playback excellent and the most recent update dramatically improved sdr blu-ray scaling if your interested in that and they are promising more updates to come on both the audio and video side. The best thing is it’s likely to be supported for updates well into the future. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

Thanks for the info, I do have an Xbox One X. So would that allow me to use HDR or is this projector dead in the water as far as HDR content? No biggie, just want to know so I don’t spin my wheels forever trying to find a solution for HDR content.

Thanks!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

MAYAmanIGN said:


> Thanks for the info, I do have an Xbox One X. So would that allow me to use HDR or is this projector dead in the water as far as HDR content? No biggie, just want to know so I don’t spin my wheels forever trying to find a solution for HDR content.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




Works great for hdr via streaming services, 4K Blu-ray and even gaming if you get an HD Fury Linker. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kothoga

Bit late to the party and a long story but here it goes.

I've been eyeing making the move from a TV to a projector for many years but have waited until owning a larger house that would allow for a dedicated theater room. Bought a house with just the room I needed and upgraded everything from an audio aspect; Onkyo RZ1100, Klipsch RF-7 Mk IIs, RC-64 Mk II, RS-62 Mk IIs, SVS PB16 Ultras but was still rocking an old Samsung PN64D7000. Loved the blacks on that plasma! Jump forward to last Tuesday and a freak thunderstorm came through and my house along with two neighbors took a massive storm surge. I got the worst of it, currently sitting at ~$60,000 in damage. Insurance has been difficult to say the least but they are working with me. Electronics are a ***** due to depreciation, almost like vehicles. My 12 year old ceiling fans are being replaced completely but I'm fighting tooth and nail for top dollar on everything from computers and bluray players to gas cooktops and VR systems. Hell, they wanted to give me $88 for my OPPO 203 and $160 for my son's 6 month old Xbox One X Scorpio!

Before anyone asks, yes, everything was on surge protectors. The entire HT system was on a nice high end Panamax which didn't do a damn thing. In fact, it still works! Everything else is toast. My cheap APC units all exploded as intended but the surge came from multiple ways. The house's discrete cable internet line was energized, vaporizing the modem, which in turn nuked the entire wired network. The discrete DirecTV line also passed the surge to all the boxes, which then burned out the HDMIs on the TVs that still work. The RZ1100 also seems to have dumped out from one HDMI to the kid's brand new Vive Pro. The VR computer was on one of the inexpensive APC battery backups and lived, save for the ASUS motherboard's LANGuard ethernet port, so the surge had to have come from the AVR to the Vive's breakout box. Luckily it went to the headset and not into the 1080Ti, then mobo, etc.

Anyway, as said, insurance has cut me a few checks and I've pretty much gotten the HT back up to snuff except for a display. I consider myself lucky that they valued the ancient plasma at $900 but it doesn't leave much on the table for a quality replacement capable of reproducing inky blacks. The wife suggested that we make the jump to a front projector as we are major movie buffs (Over 1k blus, 200 UHDs, 700 steelbooks) but put a limit on the budget since we took a hefty hit with the deductible combined with some major kitchen appliances needing to be replaced with the matching items at new full prices.

While I know I won't get the black levels I'm used to, I'm willing to trade that for size. That lead me to the 82" Samsung 4Ks but for that price I can do a 5040ub and Elite Screen's 138" 2.35 Lunette 2 with some change left over for a mount and maybe sneak in the 4 in-ceiling Klipsch speakers I've been looking at for Atmos.



Just how do the black levels of the 5040 compare to an older calibrated plasma?
Looks like the current reviews mention widespread power supply issues. How bad is it? Total crap shoot, major issue or are the reviews blowing it out of proportion?
The elephant in the room seems to be the limited bandwidth of the HDMI chip. I don't see it being too much of an issue while watching films but my son does love his Forza. How does the projector do with fast motion games? Still playable with the HD Fury?
What's a high quality ceiling mount?
Any complaints with the Lunette 2 screens?

I know the 5050 is coming in a few weeks but with the 5040 currently on a fire sale for $2,299 with a $100 Amazon GC, I don't feel like waiting and then paying a premium. Figure the 5050 will be $3k+, am I wrong?

TL;DR: Plasma got nuked, time for a projector, few questions above.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

OrcusVaruna said:


> Thanks Rob I look forward to messing around with these this weekend.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



All I ended having to do was using auto dynamic range, your gamma curve, and some slight adjustments to brightness and contrast along with my existing settings. The resulting image tracked far closer to std then I was getting previously and the amount of detail revealed near the clipping point is absurd. I don’t know why I was hell bent on using autobright lol. thanks again for posting. O and one more thing something else I have been messing with is turning off super white and setting video range to expanded. It does the same thing for shadow detail as auto does for white detail. I’m currently running a brightness of 37 and a contrast of 71. Still clips at about 3400 nits but I get so much more near black detail. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Kothoga said:


> Bit late to the party and a long story but here it goes.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been eyeing making the move from a TV to a projector for many years but have waited until owning a larger house that would allow for a dedicated theater room. Bought a house with just the room I needed and upgraded everything from an audio aspect; Onkyo RZ1100, Klipsch RF-7 Mk IIs, RC-64 Mk II, RS-62 Mk IIs, SVS PB16 Ultras but was still rocking an old Samsung PN64D7000. Loved the blacks on that plasma! Jump forward to last Tuesday and a freak thunderstorm came through and my house along with two neighbors took a massive storm surge. I got the worst of it, currently sitting at ~$60,000 in damage. Insurance has been difficult to say the least but they are working with me. Electronics are a ***** due to depreciation, almost like vehicles. My 12 year old ceiling fans are being replaced completely but I'm fighting tooth and nail for top dollar on everything from computers and bluray players to gas cooktops and VR systems. Hell, they wanted to give me $88 for my OPPO 203 and $160 for my son's 6 month old Xbox One X Scorpio!
> 
> 
> 
> Before anyone asks, yes, everything was on surge protectors. The entire HT system was on a nice high end Panamax which didn't do a damn thing. In fact, it still works! Everything else is toast. My cheap APC units all exploded as intended but the surge came from multiple ways. The house's discrete cable internet line was energized, vaporizing the modem, which in turn nuked the entire wired network. The discrete DirecTV line also passed the surge to all the boxes, which then burned out the HDMIs on the TVs that still work. The RZ1100 also seems to have dumped out from one HDMI to the kid's brand new Vive Pro. The VR computer was on one of the inexpensive APC battery backups and lived, save for the ASUS motherboard's LANGuard ethernet port, so the surge had to have come from the AVR to the Vive's breakout box. Luckily it went to the headset and not into the 1080Ti, then mobo, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, as said, insurance has cut me a few checks and I've pretty much gotten the HT back up to snuff except for a display. I consider myself lucky that they valued the ancient plasma at $900 but it doesn't leave much on the table for a quality replacement capable of reproducing inky blacks. The wife suggested that we make the jump to a front projector as we are major movie buffs (Over 1k blus, 200 UHDs, 700 steelbooks) but put a limit on the budget since we took a hefty hit with the deductible combined with some major kitchen appliances needing to be replaced with the matching items at new full prices.
> 
> 
> 
> While I know I won't get the black levels I'm used to, I'm willing to trade that for size. That lead me to the 82" Samsung 4Ks but for that price I can do a 5040ub and Elite Screen's 138" 2.35 Lunette 2 with some change left over for a mount and maybe sneak in the 4 in-ceiling Klipsch speakers I've been looking at for Atmos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just how do the black levels of the 5040 compare to an older calibrated plasma?
> 
> Looks like the current reviews mention widespread power supply issues. How bad is it? Total crap shoot, major issue or are the reviews blowing it out of proportion?
> 
> The elephant in the room seems to be the limited bandwidth of the HDMI chip. I don't see it being too much of an issue while watching films but my son does love his Forza. How does the projector do with fast motion games? Still playable with the HD Fury?
> 
> What's a high quality ceiling mount?
> 
> Any complaints with the Lunette 2 screens?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know the 5050 is coming in a few weeks but with the 5040 currently on a fire sale for $2,299 with a $100 Amazon GC, I don't feel like waiting and then paying a premium. Figure the 5050 will be $3k+, am I wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> TL;DR: Plasma got nuked, time for a projector, few questions above.




Damn that is definitely a freak surge. As for the 5040 the power supply issues are real but epsons warranty is awesome and you can tack on additional years if you want. As for black levels they are great for a projector which is about equivalent to my vizio m series with local dimming turned off. Definitely not plasma or oled good but the immersion factor of a 1-200” screen far outweighs a bit lighter black levels. Another way to put it is the black levels from the 5040 are significantly better then most local cineplexes especially dlp based systems. Finally gaming with the hd fury is great, been using one for 6 months with an xbox one x and couldn’t be happier. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## farsider3000

Kothoga said:


> Bit late to the party and a long story but here it goes.
> 
> I've been eyeing making the move from a TV to a projector for many years but have waited until owning a larger house that would allow for a dedicated theater room. Bought a house with just the room I needed and upgraded everything from an audio aspect; Onkyo RZ1100, Klipsch RF-7 Mk IIs, RC-64 Mk II, RS-62 Mk IIs, SVS PB16 Ultras but was still rocking an old Samsung PN64D7000. Loved the blacks on that plasma! Jump forward to last Tuesday and a freak thunderstorm came through and my house along with two neighbors took a massive storm surge. I got the worst of it, currently sitting at ~$60,000 in damage. Insurance has been difficult to say the least but they are working with me. Electronics are a ***** due to depreciation, almost like vehicles. My 12 year old ceiling fans are being replaced completely but I'm fighting tooth and nail for top dollar on everything from computers and bluray players to gas cooktops and VR systems. Hell, they wanted to give me $88 for my OPPO 203 and $160 for my son's 6 month old Xbox One X Scorpio!
> 
> Before anyone asks, yes, everything was on surge protectors. The entire HT system was on a nice high end Panamax which didn't do a damn thing. In fact, it still works! Everything else is toast. My cheap APC units all exploded as intended but the surge came from multiple ways. The house's discrete cable internet line was energized, vaporizing the modem, which in turn nuked the entire wired network. The discrete DirecTV line also passed the surge to all the boxes, which then burned out the HDMIs on the TVs that still work. The RZ1100 also seems to have dumped out from one HDMI to the kid's brand new Vive Pro. The VR computer was on one of the inexpensive APC battery backups and lived, save for the ASUS motherboard's LANGuard ethernet port, so the surge had to have come from the AVR to the Vive's breakout box. Luckily it went to the headset and not into the 1080Ti, then mobo, etc.
> 
> Anyway, as said, insurance has cut me a few checks and I've pretty much gotten the HT back up to snuff except for a display. I consider myself lucky that they valued the ancient plasma at $900 but it doesn't leave much on the table for a quality replacement capable of reproducing inky blacks. The wife suggested that we make the jump to a front projector as we are major movie buffs (Over 1k blus, 200 UHDs, 700 steelbooks) but put a limit on the budget since we took a hefty hit with the deductible combined with some major kitchen appliances needing to be replaced with the matching items at new full prices.
> 
> While I know I won't get the black levels I'm used to, I'm willing to trade that for size. That lead me to the 82" Samsung 4Ks but for that price I can do a 5040ub and Elite Screen's 138" 2.35 Lunette 2 with some change left over for a mount and maybe sneak in the 4 in-ceiling Klipsch speakers I've been looking at for Atmos.
> 
> 
> 
> Just how do the black levels of the 5040 compare to an older calibrated plasma?
> Looks like the current reviews mention widespread power supply issues. How bad is it? Total crap shoot, major issue or are the reviews blowing it out of proportion?
> The elephant in the room seems to be the limited bandwidth of the HDMI chip. I don't see it being too much of an issue while watching films but my son does love his Forza. How does the projector do with fast motion games? Still playable with the HD Fury?
> What's a high quality ceiling mount?
> Any complaints with the Lunette 2 screens?
> 
> I know the 5050 is coming in a few weeks but with the 5040 currently on a fire sale for $2,299 with a $100 Amazon GC, I don't feel like waiting and then paying a premium. Figure the 5050 will be $3k+, am I wrong?
> 
> TL;DR: Plasma got nuked, time for a projector, few questions above.


Sorry for the loss of your equipment. That sucks! I would suggest using Zero Surge, Brickwall or SurgeX. SurgeX is the most expensive and generally sold through dealers but it licenses the same technology as used by Zero Surge. These units use series mode protection that is generally known as being able to handle much higher amperage but not sure if they would have helped your direct hit.

_*I would definitely not buy a projector until you see what CEDIA brings us.*_ This is where Epson, JVC, Sony and all other manufacturers will introduce new projectors (if they are going to introduce anything this year). I would also consider a B-stock JVC X570 from Mike Garrett on the forum as these can be had for less than the price you are looking at and they will throw a better image than the Epson.


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

OrcusVaruna said:


> Works great for hdr via streaming services, 4K Blu-ray and even gaming if you get an HD Fury Linker.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the response, but what is an HD Fury? I googled it and watched a couple of YouTube videos but all it shows is a little box. Does this device remove the limitations the 5040 has with 18Gbps HDR from Xbox One and PS4?

If so where do I put it? Next to the Xbox or at the projector?

Secondly, what is the best projector screen to use with the 5040? The room is a dedicated theater room with no windows but the walls are white as is the ceiling. Not glossy, its matte, but it is white. The floor is Cyprus wood.

I see that Elite screen has four materials, high contrast, white, silver and gray. What do you recommend for a pitch black white room.


Thanks!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

MAYAmanIGN said:


> Thanks for the response, but what is an HD Fury? I googled it and watched a couple of YouTube videos but all it shows is a little box. Does this device remove the limitations the 5040 has with 18Gbps HDR from Xbox One and PS4?
> 
> 
> 
> If so where do I put it? Next to the Xbox or at the projector?
> 
> 
> 
> Secondly, what is the best projector screen to use with the 5040? The room is a dedicated theater room with no windows but the walls are white as is the ceiling. Not glossy, its matte, but it is white. The floor is Cyprus wood.
> 
> 
> 
> I see that Elite screen has four materials, high contrast, white, silver and gray. What do you recommend for a pitch black white room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




The Linker is a range and resolution scaler. It takes the 60fps HDR10bit signal from Xbox one x enhanced games and converts it to 60fps HDR8bit, which is the maximum range and frame rate the 5040 can accept in 4K resolution with its 10.2Gbps HDMI. It does this on the fly with virtually no input or converter lag. You can place it either at the projector or by the source device it’s up to you. 

As for screen recommendations with white walls I would look at an alr screen like the Elite Cinegrey 3D (the best budget alr option by a mile), Screen Innovations black diamond (or slate), Stewart firehawk, etc. For reference the Cinegrey 3D is usually about $400 for a 100” while the others are north of $2000 for a 100”. I personally own a Cinegrey 3D and couldn’t be happier, if I had the cash to burn the others are better and I would get one but just don’t expect 5 times + better performance. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

Kothoga said:


> Bit late to the party and a long story but here it goes.
> 
> I've been eyeing making the move from a TV to a projector for many years but have waited until owning a larger house that would allow for a dedicated theater room. Bought a house with just the room I needed and upgraded everything from an audio aspect; Onkyo RZ1100, Klipsch RF-7 Mk IIs, RC-64 Mk II, RS-62 Mk IIs, SVS PB16 Ultras but was still rocking an old Samsung PN64D7000. Loved the blacks on that plasma! Jump forward to last Tuesday and a freak thunderstorm came through and my house along with two neighbors took a massive storm surge. I got the worst of it, currently sitting at ~$60,000 in damage. Insurance has been difficult to say the least but they are working with me. Electronics are a ***** due to depreciation, almost like vehicles. My 12 year old ceiling fans are being replaced completely but I'm fighting tooth and nail for top dollar on everything from computers and bluray players to gas cooktops and VR systems. Hell, they wanted to give me $88 for my OPPO 203 and $160 for my son's 6 month old Xbox One X Scorpio!
> 
> Before anyone asks, yes, everything was on surge protectors. The entire HT system was on a nice high end Panamax which didn't do a damn thing. In fact, it still works! Everything else is toast. My cheap APC units all exploded as intended but the surge came from multiple ways. The house's discrete cable internet line was energized, vaporizing the modem, which in turn nuked the entire wired network. The discrete DirecTV line also passed the surge to all the boxes, which then burned out the HDMIs on the TVs that still work. The RZ1100 also seems to have dumped out from one HDMI to the kid's brand new Vive Pro. The VR computer was on one of the inexpensive APC battery backups and lived, save for the ASUS motherboard's LANGuard ethernet port, so the surge had to have come from the AVR to the Vive's breakout box. Luckily it went to the headset and not into the 1080Ti, then mobo, etc.
> 
> Anyway, as said, insurance has cut me a few checks and I've pretty much gotten the HT back up to snuff except for a display. I consider myself lucky that they valued the ancient plasma at $900 but it doesn't leave much on the table for a quality replacement capable of reproducing inky blacks. The wife suggested that we make the jump to a front projector as we are major movie buffs (Over 1k blus, 200 UHDs, 700 steelbooks) but put a limit on the budget since we took a hefty hit with the deductible combined with some major kitchen appliances needing to be replaced with the matching items at new full prices.
> 
> While I know I won't get the black levels I'm used to, I'm willing to trade that for size. That lead me to the 82" Samsung 4Ks but for that price I can do a 5040ub and Elite Screen's 138" 2.35 Lunette 2 with some change left over for a mount and maybe sneak in the 4 in-ceiling Klipsch speakers I've been looking at for Atmos.
> 
> 
> 
> Just how do the black levels of the 5040 compare to an older calibrated plasma?
> Looks like the current reviews mention widespread power supply issues. How bad is it? Total crap shoot, major issue or are the reviews blowing it out of proportion?
> The elephant in the room seems to be the limited bandwidth of the HDMI chip. I don't see it being too much of an issue while watching films but my son does love his Forza. How does the projector do with fast motion games? Still playable with the HD Fury?
> What's a high quality ceiling mount?
> Any complaints with the Lunette 2 screens?
> 
> I know the 5050 is coming in a few weeks but with the 5040 currently on a fire sale for $2,299 with a $100 Amazon GC, I don't feel like waiting and then paying a premium. Figure the 5050 will be $3k+, am I wrong?
> 
> TL;DR: Plasma got nuked, time for a projector, few questions above.


As far as the black levels go, I think it is a superb idea to use a 2.35:1 screen to eliminatie the black bars. As long as you don't have a "blacker black" to compare to, the blacks of the epson are very good imo. When you project black bars next to the black sides of your screen, they will always seem grey. The black in an image (sunglasses, black car,...) always seem inky to me...

Good luck with everything!


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

Can the 5040 be used with a pivot ceiling lift, or must it be a ceiling lift horizontal to the floor?


----------



## JewDaddy

When do you guys think the 5040 successor will be available? End of August - Beginning of September? My two hopes are simple. 

Number one - Frame Interpolation with 4K Content such as Blu-Rays or Netflix. 

Number two - 18gbs HDMI port so we don’t need the Linker anymore to get 4K and HDR at 60 hz. 

Picture quality wise, I have no qualms with my 5040. It still continues to amaze me at how good the picture looks. Obviously I would always hope for brighter HDR but I don’t have any complaints about the current HDR performance on my 5040. Other than those two features I mentioned above, I would say the 5040 is easily the best projector I’ve owned. Probably going to be selling mine depending on what’s announced in the coming weeks with the 5050. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ricwhite

JewDaddy said:


> When do you guys think the 5040 successor will be available? End of August - Beginning of September? My two hopes are simple.
> 
> Number one - Frame Interpolation with 4K Content such as Blu-Rays or Netflix.
> 
> Number two - 18gbs HDMI port so we don’t need the Linker anymore to get 4K and HDR at 60 hz.
> 
> Picture quality wise, I have no qualms with my 5040. It still continues to amaze me at how good the picture looks. Obviously I would always hope for brighter HDR but I don’t have any complaints about the current HDR performance on my 5040. Other than those two features I mentioned above, I would say the 5040 is easily the best projector I’ve owned. Probably going to be selling mine depending on what’s announced in the coming weeks with the 5050.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The new Epson is said to have both of those things you mentioned. It will have Frame Interpolation with 4k and it will do 18gbs HDMI so you can do HDR at 60hz. It is said to be a little brighter. Other than that, it will be the same projector - hopefully with the power supply issue fixed. So, this next projector is just a "minor" upgrade. No word on a native 4k Epson.


----------



## WynsWrld98

If anyone wants to watch something that is a torture test for black levels try Extinction streaming on Netflix. I have a bat cave and it was very difficult to watch many scenes in it due to black levels running with HDR and lamp on high blacks didn't look good. This is the first thing I've watched on my 5040 with extended scenes that didn't look good.


----------



## JewDaddy

ricwhite said:


> The new Epson is said to have both of those things you mentioned. It will have Frame Interpolation with 4k and it will do 18gbs HDMI so you can do HDR at 60hz. It is said to be a little brighter. Other than that, it will be the same projector - hopefully with the power supply issue fixed. So, this next projector is just a "minor" upgrade. No word on a native 4k Epson.




Awesome!!!!!!! I’m a huge fan of Frame Interpolation and I really miss it when watching 4K. And as far as the 18gb HDMI port, it’s not that big of a deal because I have an HDFury Linker but it will be nice not to have to use it anymore. Guess I’ll bundle that with my 5040 when I decide to sell it soon. I wonder if Epson is going to keep 3D in or take it out of this next Projector to keep the cost down. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

WynsWrld98 said:


> If anyone wants to watch something that is a torture test for black levels try Extinction streaming on Netflix. I have a bat cave and it was very difficult to watch many scenes in it due to black levels running with HDR and lamp on high blacks didn't look good. This is the first thing I've watched on my 5040 with extended scenes that didn't look good.



I did an hdr calibration with digital cinema clamping the iris down to -10 and the auto iris on high just for content like this. It doesn’t look as good for most hdr material imo where I prefer the improved white brightness over the elevation of black levels. It may be worth a try 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

I have read somewhere in an articel with a calibrated 6040ub that by turning the iris lens down to -20 you get higher contrast. You guys that have done your own calibrations, can you confirm this or should 0 give better contrast? I think it was with auto iris off. 

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

westbergjoakim said:


> I have read somewhere in an articel with a calibrated 6040ub that by turning the iris lens down to -20 you get higher contrast. You guys that have done your own calibrations, can you confirm this or should 0 give better contrast? I think it was with auto iris off.
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk




All depends on your room environment and screen. On my alr screen for instance in a living room environment I really can’t clamp down the iris much below 10 before shadow detail begins to crush. Now a neutral matte white screen in a dedicated bat cave yes I would think you could really drive deep blacks by clamping the iris all the way down to -20 and running eco mode. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

OrcusVaruna said:


> All depends on your room environment and screen. On my alr screen for instance in a living room environment I really can’t clamp down the iris much below 10 before shadow detail begins to crush. Now a neutral matte white screen in a dedicated bat cave yes I would think you could really drive deep blacks by clamping the iris all the way down to -20 and running eco mode.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for your input! I'm playing in my livingroom but I have black(out) curtains in front of the windows and the same at the door so I can get it dark. I have some kind of green wall where I have my screen and blackout curtains at the (white) ceiling down to the screen and 3-4 feet outside both sides. I will buy more so I can have it all way round my screen. I have my screen around 11 foot away from the projector. I have a budgetscreen atm but will a new soon. They say that the gain is 1.0.

Do you think I should run with -20 in this environment? (Pictures with lights on). I'm using your settings aswell, but I don't know if it's your latest findings. I can't play 4k content atm, only 1080p. Could you point me to the post with your current settings? Thanks!









Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

Iris at -20 will give the highest contrast ratio, because a lower black increases the contrast ratio enormously.
Now, that's just numbers. You should set the manual iris in a manner that you have enough light output. If you can't measure, set it at your own taste. If you have a meter, a light output of at least 16ftl is recommended for sdr usage...


----------



## avtoronto

robc1976 said:


> I think your will be pleased if your room has same conditions as mine.
> 
> Natural mode is what most have the best sucess at, its the only mode that really followed the gamma curve correctly and also has good color accuracy. Especially in the greens.
> 
> I did a bright cinnema abd the colors are just out of wack, they are so far out that maxing the CMS controls wouldn't even come close to correcting it and green being the worst.
> 
> Natural was also 20nits brighter.
> 
> After see what auto bright does to gamma curve I will never use that setting (blows the blacks out and clips gamma at top). Kills white detail ect.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I am no expert on this, but my understanding is Digital Cinema invokes a filter that yields the wider color gamut so by using Natural, aren't you giving up some color richness? Did Digital Cinema not provide the desired results for you?


----------



## NetViper

JewDaddy said:


> Awesome!!!!!!! I’m a huge fan of Frame Interpolation and I really miss it when watching 4K. And as far as the 18gb HDMI port, it’s not that big of a deal because I have an HDFury Linker but it will be nice not to have to use it anymore. Guess I’ll bundle that with my 5040 when I decide to sell it soon. I wonder if Epson is going to keep 3D in or take it out of this next Projector to keep the cost down.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes but the linker converts to 8 bit and causes banding. It will be nice to not have banding anymore !


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

Banding? What is banding? So Linker is not a solution to Xbox One X HDR then? So confused.


----------



## roland6465

MAYAmanIGN said:


> Banding? What is banding? So Linker is not a solution to Xbox One X HDR then? So confused.


Banding is when you can see the different gradients of a color in what is supposed to be a smooth image. It occurs in solid colored areas of the image. It occurs when the signal is starved of bandwidth, such as 8-bit 4K UHD.

Ex:


----------



## JewDaddy

NetViper said:


> Yes but the linker converts to 8 bit and causes banding. It will be nice to not have banding anymore !




I feel so silly because I never noticed there was banding at all! Why did you have to point this out?? Now I’ll be looking for it. Lol Jk

Btw, does anybody have a recommendation for a replacement bulb? Trying to find a genuine bulb at the best price. If I’m gonna sell this projector in the next couple months, I at least want to make sure the person buying has a fresh bulb. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

JewDaddy said:


> I feel so silly because I never noticed there was banding at all! Why did you have to point this out?? Now I’ll be looking for it. Lol Jk
> 
> Btw, does anybody have a recommendation for a replacement bulb? Trying to find a genuine bulb at the best price. If I’m gonna sell this projector in the next couple months, I at least want to make sure the person buying has a fresh bulb.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

So 18gbps chip will allow 4k 60hz 12 Bit 4:4:4 correct? Seems like a sweet ass upgrade to me. Just in time for people who want to remain under warranty to offload their two year old 5040's. 



Right now max is 4k 24hz 12 Bit 4:2:2 



or 



1080p 60hz 12 Bit 4:2:2 which looks awesome to my eyes. Probably wouldn't see much of a difference though with 4k 60z 12 bit 4:4:4.


----------



## Evan201

Side note: 



I'm pretty excited for the new Panasonic UB820 UHD player coming in on Friday. I'll be trying out the new HDR optimizer feature and see how it plays with the Epson. 



I've been hearing people are able to max out the contrast setting along with the optimizer on and get no clipping, but have a much brighter overall picture. 



Should be a lot of fun. Will update with screen shots for you guys.


----------



## Eric_Connelly

I had a light dust blob in the lower right. It was a light grey spot.


Tonight on a black screen and have a huge number of them, 8 or 9 in the lower right.


Is this something they can clean and fix? Will they warrant it?


I've got 4 months left before my warranty is up.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

MAYAmanIGN said:


> Banding? What is banding? So Linker is not a solution to Xbox One X HDR then? So confused.



Yes the Linker works 8 bit hdr introduces a touch of color gradations around extremely bright objects like the sun or in bright uniform backgrounds such as a menu. In my experience it is VERY minimal as some of it is source induced (ie inherent to the game itself). So for me it’s not enough of an issue to qualify as an issue or even annoyance for me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## crosswire

YouTube playback 4K content


----------



## crosswire

Oops didn’t know what happened there. Anyways I have had the 5040ub for a year n half now. Not sure what the current firmware is as I did an update earlier this year. Anyone tell me what theirs is with latest one. 

Also noticed a weird thing happen. I was watching a 4K YouTube clip of nature n the right side of my 120” screen the Colors were off like horizontal lines and grey n yellow blotches not sure and then whole screen went fuzzy with lines. I assumed maybe it was trying to stream the 4K content n was struggling with my wifi. Just happened today. So will keep an eye on it. 
Anyone had something similar. 
I have the Samsung uhd 4K player with updated firmware recently.


----------



## prme19

HELP! My Samsung UHD player (the first one) must have updated to a new software or maybe just Netflix app did, but I just noticed tonight that Netflix is only streaming previous HDR content with Dolby Vision only. My 5040ub would now only play these content on 1080 SDR. Anybody notice this?


----------



## Ragnorok

Hello!


I have a Denon AVR-X4400H that was driving my old Epson projector. That one quit two weeks ago, and Friday a shiny new Epson 5040UB showed up to take it's place. The Denon has only two sources ... a Roku Streaming Stick+ and an Oppo UDP-203.


Initially the Epson would do nothing but say "Not Supported" or "No Signal", so I brought a TV down and plugged it into the other HDMI out. Using that I discovered the Denon was doing conversions to 1080p/24, which I vaguely recall b/c the old Epson never worked with 1080p faster than that. Still, the 5040UB should be able to display that, and it wasn't.


Using the TV as my display I fiddeled with settings on both the Roku & the Oppo, until I got the Roku to show something. I couldn't get the Oppo to do anything, even when I set it to 1080p/24.


Once the Roku was working I turned off video conversion on the Denon. *poof* Not supported comes back. No matter what I set the Denon to, if that setting is not "Conversion enabled to 1080p/24", the 5040UB shows "Not supported" for a bit, then usually (but not always) shows "No signal".


Many times during the dozens of changes I've made, I checked Info->Projector Info. ONCE it said something weird like 2160x1080. All other times it's just all dashes.


I spend many hours last weekend combing the 'net, and found naught. I also tried a number of times to search just this message board, to no avail. I could search all of the parent, but that includes more irrelevant hits than relevant ones, covering all


----------



## prme19

prme19 said:


> HELP! My Samsung UHD player (the first one) must have updated to a new software or maybe just Netflix app did, but I just noticed tonight that Netflix is only streaming previous HDR content with Dolby Vision only. My 5040ub would now only play these content on 1080 SDR. Anybody notice this?


Sorry. I figured it out. Apparently what happed was, both my projector and 4KTV were both on at the same time. Both of them on separate HDMI outputs from my receiver. I turned off the tv, now I’m back on 4K HDR with my projector


----------



## satyab

Evan201 said:


> Side note:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty excited for the new Panasonic UB820 UHD player coming in on Friday. I'll be trying out the new HDR optimizer feature and see how it plays with the Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been hearing people are able to max out the contrast setting along with the optimizer on and get no clipping, but have a much brighter overall picture.
> 
> 
> 
> Should be a lot of fun. Will update with screen shots for you guys.


Awesome.Looking forward to hear your thoughts on HD Optimizer function on this projector. I am planning to upgrade from UB900 to UB820/UB9000 depends on what HD Optimizer brings to the table.


----------



## gene4ht

satyab said:


> Awesome.Looking forward to hear your thoughts on HD Optimizer function on this projector. I am planning to upgrade from UB900 to UB820/UB9000 depends on what HD Optimizer brings to the table.



What are your thoughts/impressions on the UB900's slider that brightens HDR?


----------



## Evan201

gene4ht said:


> What are your thoughts/impressions on the UB900's slider that brightens HDR?


I personally don't know much about the 900 because I don't own one, but its worth skipping if you are in the market can going to the UB820. The optimizer should be a life saver for OLED's and projectors alike. Hell anything with low luminance is going to benefit from the dynamic tone mapping happening at the source and then the display being fed a stable HDR signal. I was thinking about the 900 a while back and now I'm super glad I waited. Just sold my Phillips 7501. This thing should be a nice upgrade over that.

The UB820 will still have the same sliders for HDR brightness as the 900 had. Just adding the dynamic mapping feature on top.


----------



## gene4ht

Evan201 said:


> I personally don't know much about the 900 because I don't own one, but its worth skipping if you are in the market can going to the UB820. The optimizer should be a life saver for OLED's and projectors alike. Hell anything with low luminance is going to benefit from the dynamic tone mapping happening at the source and then the display being fed a stable HDR signal. I was thinking about the 900 a while back and now I'm super glad I waited. Just sold my Phillips 7501. This thing should be a nice upgrade over that.



I actually own both the 7501 and the 900 as well as the 203...have them in 3 different systems. The slider in the 900 actually works reasonably well improving HDR content (brightness) for projectors. I'm not familiar with the "optimizer" but if it improves upon the "slider's" performance, it should be a winner. BTW, is there any information/link on the optimizer...what it is and how it works? And have availability dates for the 820 and 9000 been announced.


----------



## Evan201

gene4ht said:


> I'm not familiar with the "optimizer" but if it improves upon the "slider's" performance, it should be a winner. BTW, is there any information/link on the optimizer...what it is and how it works? And have availability dates for the 820 and 9000 been announced.


Value Electronics has them in stock and shipping as of today. 

You set the luminance level of your display to a setting in the optimizer. There is a projector option there. It gently rolls off the highlights at the peak level of your display showing detail in the super highlights of HDR equipment regardless of your displays luminance capabilities.


----------



## robc1976

That's awesome the level of detail is amazing. Superwhite does v raise the gamma curve above reference is why I chose to Leave it off. The specular highlights are what I really love about these settings (glares off shields, ect)


OrcusVaruna said:


> All I ended having to do was using auto dynamic range, your gamma curve, and some slight adjustments to brightness and contrast along with my existing settings. The resulting image tracked far closer to std then I was getting previously and the amount of detail revealed near the clipping point is absurd. I don’t know why I was hell bent on using autobright lol. thanks again for posting. O and one more thing something else I have been messing with is turning off super white and setting video range to expanded. It does the same thing for shadow detail as auto does for white detail. I’m currently running a brightness of 37 and a contrast of 71. Still clips at about 3400 nits but I get so much more near black detail.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

avtoronto said:


> I am no expert on this, but my understanding is Digital Cinema invokes a filter that yields the wider color gamut so by using Natural, aren't you giving up some color richness? Did Digital Cinema not provide the desired results for you?


Your giving up a bit of color but with digital cinema you're giving up tons of light output up to 25% less give or take. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

robc1976 said:


> That's awesome the level of detail is amazing. Superwhite does v raise the gamma curve above reference is why I chose to Leave it off. The specular highlights are what I really love about these settings (glares off shields, ect)
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Hi robc
can i just confirm, the settings you previously posted show superwhite On but in this post you say you choose to leave it Off?

I really appreciate the effort that you and @OrcusVaruna have put into calibrating this projector
Orcus now mentions using some of your settings along with some of his, are we now talking about a hybrid setting that combines both?

As I have a memory slot dedicated to your settings, and one for Orcus
It really would be a boon to have an up to date link in both of your signatures showing the latest settings that you use

Many thanks again
Andy


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Your giving up a bit of color but with digital cinema you're giving up tons of light output up to 25% less give or take.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




I agree your actually not giving up as much color accuracy as you think either. After calibrating I’m not entirely sure why they chose to include it at all. Funny enough I actually find it far more useful for sdr content when I really want to clamp down on light output to drive blacks as deep as possible. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lesmor said:


> Hi robc
> 
> can i just confirm, the settings you previously posted show superwhite On but in this post you say you choose to leave it Off?
> 
> 
> 
> I really appreciate the effort that you and @OrcusVaruna have put into calibrating this projector
> 
> Orcus now mentions using some of your settings along with some of his, are we now talking about a hybrid setting that combines both?
> 
> 
> 
> As I have a memory slot dedicated to your settings, and one for Orcus
> 
> It really would be a boon to have an up to date link in both of your signatures showing the latest settings that you use
> 
> 
> 
> Many thanks again
> 
> Andy



As soon as I’m fully happy with the hybrid settings I will post them 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ccotenj

Ragnorok said:


> Hello!
> 
> 
> I have a Denon AVR-X4400H that was driving my old Epson projector. That one quit two weeks ago, and Friday a shiny new Epson 5040UB showed up to take it's place. The Denon has only two sources ... a Roku Streaming Stick+ and an Oppo UDP-203.
> 
> 
> Initially the Epson would do nothing but say "Not Supported" or "No Signal", so I brought a TV down and plugged it into the other HDMI out. Using that I discovered the Denon was doing conversions to 1080p/24, which I vaguely recall b/c the old Epson never worked with 1080p faster than that. Still, the 5040UB should be able to display that, and it wasn't.
> 
> 
> Using the TV as my display I fiddeled with settings on both the Roku & the Oppo, until I got the Roku to show something. I couldn't get the Oppo to do anything, even when I set it to 1080p/24.
> 
> 
> Once the Roku was working I turned off video conversion on the Denon. *poof* Not supported comes back. No matter what I set the Denon to, if that setting is not "Conversion enabled to 1080p/24", the 5040UB shows "Not supported" for a bit, then usually (but not always) shows "No signal".
> 
> 
> Many times during the dozens of changes I've made, I checked Info->Projector Info. ONCE it said something weird like 2160x1080. All other times it's just all dashes.
> 
> 
> I spend many hours last weekend combing the 'net, and found naught. I also tried a number of times to search just this message board, to no avail. I could search all of the parent, but that includes more irrelevant hits than relevant ones, covering all


----------



## avtoronto

ccotenj said:


> have you set the denon to “enhanced” instead of “standard”? it is under video/4k signal format in the setup menu.


The Denon will pass HDR using 'standard' at 24Hz 4:2:0. I am using this and get a Rec 2020 signal per the projector's info screen.


----------



## monkaquinas

Evan201 said:


> Side note:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty excited for the new Panasonic UB820 UHD player coming in on Friday. I'll be trying out the new HDR optimizer feature and see how it plays with the Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been hearing people are able to max out the contrast setting along with the optimizer on and get no clipping, but have a much brighter overall picture.
> 
> 
> 
> Should be a lot of fun. Will update with screen shots for you guys.


I ordered one yesterday, I'd love to see what you think of it and how you dial in the HDR optimizer settings. I don't have any Calibration equipment, other than the THX optimizer app, and have been using Orcus' settings as a guide.


----------



## Evan201

monkaquinas said:


> I ordered one yesterday, I'd love to see what you think of it and how you dial in the HDR optimizer settings. I don't have any Calibration equipment, other than the THX optimizer app, and have been using Orcus' settings as a guide.



I dont have a light meter, but I do use basic clipping patterns from Ryan Masciola for SDR and HDR10. Hoping to get chromapure with a meter sooner than later.


----------



## Mr.G

Ragnorok said:


> I for one would be delighted to hear suggestions. I find it unlikely my new toy is broken in a way that only allows one resolution and frame rate. It's much more likely that I'm not doing something right.
> 
> - Ragnorok


Have you considered your HDMI cable? What is the length? Often a good quality high speed HDMI cable will be sufficient for the 5040. In your case perhaps your HDMI cable which was fine with your old 1080p projector isn't coping with the additional data stream. 4K UltraHD at 24p is about 8.91 Gbps while 1080p at 24p is about 2.23 Gbps.

https://www.highdefdigest.com/news/.../celerity/need-a-long-hdmi-cable-for-4k/40142


----------



## Ragnorok

ccotenj, avtoronto,


In an effect I call "The Magic Of Asking", not ten minutes after posting here, I found a web site that compared copper & optical HDMI. I *think* I may be having a cable issue, and even if I'm not, from what I've read 4k degrades considerably over the 30 feet of cable to the projector. So I just ordered an optical HDMI cable.


On the settings, I didn't change anything 4k-specific. I just turned off conversion and it would die right there. Or I'd leave it on and set various resolutions and it would die right there. I did them all from 720 to 4k, but didn't change anything but resolution / frame rate. At no setting would it work except 1080p/24 with conversion on.



I'm also still perplexed that the Oppo at 1080p/24 doesn't work.


In any case I think I need the cable for reliable 4k regardless, so I've kicked the can down the road until that gets here. Meantime I'm using this down time to mount the new acoustically transparent screen. Figured the old 4x3 I got in 1998 has served me well, but it's time for an upgrade.


Thanks for your time...
- Ragnorok


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> As soon as I’m fully happy with the hybrid settings I will post them
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Leave superwhite “on“ with my settings. Off caused gamma curve to drop in the blacks a rise in the white. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> I agree your actually not giving up as much color accuracy as you think either. After calibrating I’m not entirely sure why they chose to include it at all. Funny enough I actually find it far more useful for sdr content when I really want to clamp down on light output to drive blacks as deep as possible.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Exactly, its very close

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Leave superwhite “on“ with my settings. Off caused gamma curve to drop in the blacks a rise in the white.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




And this is where screen makes such a huge difference. With my dark grey alr screen gamma stayed basically the same in the blacks and yes it pushed higher in the whites but gave some additional brightness to the image without loosing too much. Overall though I’m still not sure if I’ll stick with it off as it makes the image a touch unnatural. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Even when measuring?


OrcusVaruna said:


> And this is where screen makes such a huge difference. With my dark grey alr screen gamma stayed basically the same in the blacks and yes it pushed higher in the whites but gave some additional brightness to the image without loosing too much. Overall though I’m still not sure if I’ll stick with it off as it makes the image a touch unnatural.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

OrcusVaruna said:


> And this is where screen makes such a huge difference. With my dark grey alr screen gamma stayed basically the same in the blacks and yes it pushed higher in the whites but gave some additional brightness to the image without loosing too much. Overall though I’m still not sure if I’ll stick with it off as it makes the image a touch unnatural.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I use a cinegrey 5d and love it.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Even when measuring?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Yup the dark gray alr material either actually messes with the gamma or the reading I’m not sure. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jimmyk36

*Whose HDR and SDR calibration settings are you using?*



Azekecse said:


> Hello DEN7ER,
> 
> I dropped a PDF file with the settings, not sure if this is the latest, just remember these are primarily baseline settings. You will need to customize according to your environment, i.e. screen, lighting, etc..
> 
> Hope this helps and Congratulations, I really enjoy my 6040UB projector. I watch it almost everyday.
> 
> I wouldn't concern myself with the power supply issue, I think the majority of Epson 5040/6040 owners are fine, they just don't post until something happens. Just Enjoy!!!
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Just curious what every one is using from the HDR and SDR settings? Maybe add a poll to the thread? 

Which of the following are you using or prefer? (Listed below in no particular order)

(From HT Guy’s compiled list found as a link in the post referred to above. Thanks for putting the list together!)

HDR: 

1. oledurt Bright Cinema version 2

2. oledurt Bright Cinema version 1

3. oledurt Digital Cinema

4. Dave Harper Digital Cinema "HarperVision"

5. Dave Harper Bright Cinema

6. Dave Harper Digital Cinema w/oledurt suggestions

7. achanonier

8. oledurt Digital Cinema w/ dimi123 suggestions

9. panman40

10. buklwhitey

11. robc1976 (not in the attachment but in post number 15000j

SDR:

1. aaranddeeman

2. Dave Harper

3. panman40

4. Mikesp1


----------



## westbergjoakim

I have never done panel alignemet before so this is the first time I try it but I'm not sure how I should set it up. See the two pictures. 

Which one should I try to get? Some are like the first and some are like the other picture. I want it in line with the line, right? The sharpness are much better now after I have done it and you can see a big difference when turning it off. Thanks!









Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

westbergjoakim said:


> I have never done panel alignemet before so this is the first time I try it but I'm not sure how I should set it up. See the two pictures.
> 
> Which one should I try to get? Some are like the first and some are like the other picture. I want it in line with the line, right? The sharpness are much better now after I have done it and you can see a big difference when turning it off. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


Which buttons do you select to get into seeing this pattern with the red cross in the middle? I only see the box grid for panel alignment with no red cross in the middle. Seems to be helpful having that cross.


----------



## westbergjoakim

Evan201 said:


> Which buttons do you select to get into seeing this pattern with the red cross in the middle? I only see the box grid for panel alignment with no red cross in the middle. Seems to be helpful having that cross.


At the same place but continue after you have done the 4 corners, intersection or something like that, and just hit enter at each line.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

westbergjoakim said:


> At the same place but continue after you have done the 4 corners, intersection or something like that, and just hit enter at each line.
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk





Ok thanks. I'll take a look tonight. Maybe I just missed that. Seems to make things easier than not having it.


----------



## westbergjoakim

Evan201 said:


> Ok thanks. I'll take a look tonight. Maybe I just missed that. Seems to make things easier than not having it.


It's 3 steps. Second is adjusting the 4 corners and the last is adjusting intersection. It made my sharpness alot better! I don't know if I did it right, but it got much better though 

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

My 5040UBe arrived today from Dell. Really excited, but I have a couple of questions as this is my first Home Theater projector.

I want to build a DIY projector lift based on this design.






Since the 5040 has no keystone controls can I have a lift like this that keeps the projector at the ceiling? Or does the projector have to be lower? Hope that makes sense.

Secondly, I’ve been reading a lot about the HD Fury linker and how it alleviates the issue with PS Pro and Xbox One X and the 12Gb limit. Is there a tutorial on how exactly to setup the PS Pro/Xbox One X/HD Fury to make the 5040UBe look its absolute best for Movies and games? Please realize you’re dealing with an absolute novice. 

Thirdly, are there any other things I should be aware about the UBe in order to get the most out of the projector and or stuff I should or shouldn’t do to make sure it runs for years.

Thanks everyone for all your help.


----------



## WynsWrld98

westbergjoakim said:


> It's 3 steps. Second is adjusting the 4 corners and the last is adjusting intersection. It made my sharpness alot better! I don't know if I did it right, but it got much better though
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


I tried to adjust convergence in the past but found it completely confusing with no instructions onscreen what to do. Is there a 5040/6040 convergence for dummies write up somewhere?


----------



## avtoronto

WynsWrld98 said:


> I tried to adjust convergence in the past but found it completely confusing with no instructions onscreen what to do. Is there a 5040/6040 convergence for dummies write up somewhere?


+1


----------



## Evan201

So I just pulled off my first and pretty thorough panel alignment. Went fine. Picture looks nice and sharp. Feeling like i'm seeing a bit better sharpness in combination with the 4k pixel shift on. 

Didn't have to do much with the corners, but the individual cross sections needed a bunch of alignment in many places. 

Did red with pattern red and green. Did the blue with R/G/B pattern.

Its pretty self explanatory. Look for the sections where the blue or red are way out and dial them back in so they perfectly overlap with the white grid lines. Move to a new intersection and hit enter to pull up the red cross. line up the red cross with the white grid lines exactly. Do this on every intersection for red and blue alignment.


----------



## robc1976

westbergjoakim said:


> It's 3 steps. Second is adjusting the 4 corners and the last is adjusting intersection. It made my sharpness alot better! I don't know if I did it right, but it got much better though
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


So it just made sharpness better? I may be interested in this, don't want color messed with as I did a very extensive Calibration

Never actually done this after 2,000 hours lol

Is this hard to do, what is the exact procedure? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## coderguy

MAYAmanIGN said:


> My 5040UBe arrived today from Dell. Really excited, but I have a couple of questions as this is my first Home Theater projector.
> 
> I want to build a DIY projector lift based on this design.
> 
> https://youtu.be/tAe0xEpJoho
> 
> Since the 5040 has no keystone controls can I have a lift like this that keeps the projector at the ceiling? Or does the projector have to be lower? Hope that makes sense.
> 
> Secondly, I’ve been reading a lot about the HD Fury linker and how it alleviates the issue with PS Pro and Xbox One X and the 12Gb limit. Is there a tutorial on how exactly to setup the PS Pro/Xbox One X/HD Fury to make the 5040UBe look its absolute best for Movies and games? Please realize you’re dealing with an absolute novice.
> 
> Thirdly, are there any other things I should be aware about the UBe in order to get the most out of the projector and or stuff I should or shouldn’t do to make sure it runs for years.
> 
> Thanks everyone for all your help.


The lift will need to be flat and at 90 degrees when it is in the fully extended position.
Since that particular lift design comes out at an angle, then all you have to do is make sure to modify the plans so that the projector is stored at an angle when the lift is closed in the ceiling.
That way when you extend the lift, the projector will be flat at 90 degrees.

That lift also looks too narrow (just eyeing it visually), so you will need to make it bigger or cut a hole in the top of it to allow the projector to receed in the ceiling.

The lens will generally need to be below the edge of the ceiling when the lift is extended (depending on how much space from lens to first obstructing edge of ceiling).
Since the 5040 has plenty of lens shift, it should work after you modify the lift container to be the correct dimensions and correct angle.


----------



## drhankz

MAYAmanIGN said:


> My 5040UBe arrived today from Dell. Really excited, but I have a couple of questions as this is my first Home Theater projector.
> 
> I want to build a DIY projector lift based on this design.
> 
> https://youtu.be/tAe0xEpJoho
> 
> Since the 5040 has no keystone controls can I have a lift like this that keeps the projector at the ceiling? Or does the projector have to be lower? Hope that makes sense.
> 
> Secondly, I’ve been reading a lot about the HD Fury linker and how it alleviates the issue with PS Pro and Xbox One X and the 12Gb limit. Is there a tutorial on how exactly to setup the PS Pro/Xbox One X/HD Fury to make the 5040UBe look its absolute best for Movies and games? Please realize you’re dealing with an absolute novice.
> 
> Thirdly, are there any other things I should be aware about the UBe in order to get the most out of the projector and or stuff I should or shouldn’t do to make sure it runs for years.
> 
> Thanks everyone for all your help.


WHY Bother with a Lift?

*MOVING PARTS ARE NOT AN ASSET FOR A PROJECTOR

*


----------



## Juboy

robc1976 said:


> So it just made sharpness better? I may be interested in this, don't want color messed with as I did a very extensive Calibration
> 
> Never actually done this after 2,000 hours lol



It's worth checking. I looked at mine and it was absolutely spot on out of the box, no adjustment necessary at all. Worth putting your mind at rest. If anything does appear to be off, it's easy to fix and you'll know how as you go through the various screens the PJ shows you.


BTW, I've been binge watched Altered Carbon in 4Kon mine this week and your settings have made it look utterly stunning, so thank you again.


----------



## coderguy

drhankz said:


> WHY Bother with a Lift?
> 
> *MOVING PARTS ARE NOT AN ASSET FOR A PROJECTOR
> 
> *


It is usually for aesthetic reasons, but I agree, it can cause headaches. 
I'm sure he knows that already, but if people want the headache for the increased aesthetic when the PJ is not in use, go for it.


----------



## albo75

I've been reading through these pages for a while now, but am still a little confused on the 5040's 4k ability.

*Here's what I have now:*

Epson 8350
Onkyo TX-SR608
Xbox One
PS 4
Apple TV
Panasonic Blu-ray
140" screen/wall at 14' from living room seating area with ambient lighting in the Spring/Summer months here in VT.


*Here's what I'd like to upgrade to:*

Epson 5040
Denon AVR-X1400H
Xbox One X (and later a PS4Pro)

My thinking is to replace the ATV/Blu-ray and run everything through an Xbox One X, including Plex from my Mac Mini media server. My wife is the gamer, so I want the best possible quality from those games, but I'd also like to have the best movie watching ability with UHD Blu-ray media, and various streaming sites.

So, is this a good combo given the lack of 18mbps HDMI on the 5040, or am I never going to care?


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

drhankz said:


> WHY Bother with a Lift?
> 
> *MOVING PARTS ARE NOT AN ASSET FOR A PROJECTOR
> 
> *


Because my home theater has a certain aesthetic that I’d like to keep, and its also the space we use for room scale and don’t want anyone flailing the Vive controllers around and destroying the projector.


----------



## gene4ht

drhankz said:


> WHY Bother with a Lift?


Here you go...



MAYAmanIGN said:


> Because my home theater has a certain aesthetic that I’d like to keep, and *its also the space we use for room scale and don’t want anyone flailing the Vive controllers around and destroying the projector.*


----------



## Hawkmarket

albo75 said:


> I've been reading through these pages for a while now, but am still a little confused on the 5040's 4k ability.
> 
> *Here's what I have now:*
> 
> Epson 8350
> Onkyo TX-SR608
> Xbox One
> PS 4
> Apple TV
> Panasonic Blu-ray
> 140" screen/wall at 14' from living room seating area with ambient lighting in the Spring/Summer months here in VT.
> 
> 
> *Here's what I'd like to upgrade to:*
> 
> Epson 5040
> Denon AVR-X1400H
> Xbox One X (and later a PS4Pro)
> 
> My thinking is to replace the ATV/Blu-ray and run everything through an Xbox One X, including Plex from my Mac Mini media server. My wife is the gamer, so I want the best possible quality from those games, but I'd also like to have the best movie watching ability with UHD Blu-ray media, and various streaming sites.
> 
> So, is this a good combo given the lack of 18mbps HDMI on the 5040, or am I never going to care?



The rumors are they are upgrading this to 18mbps HMDI this fall. I'd hold tight a couple more months. I think we'll know for sure by Cedia if not a little sooner.


----------



## albo75

Intertesting! I can definitely wait on this for now.


----------



## Jameshtx

I was told I could have the video go through my Oppo 203 or my denon 4300h receiver. Is there a difference or advantages? What do most of yall do? Thx


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Juboy said:


> It's worth checking. I looked at mine and it was absolutely spot on out of the box, no adjustment necessary at all. Worth putting your mind at rest. If anything does appear to be off, it's easy to fix and you'll know how as you go through the various screens the PJ shows you.
> 
> 
> BTW, I've been binge watched Altered Carbon in 4Kon mine this week and your settings have made it look utterly stunning, so thank you again.


Thanks for the info! Really glad those settings are working for you. My favorite parts of the settings is the specular highlights.
Like lights gleaming off a sword ect

Light shining off metal. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

Jameshtx said:


> I was told I could have the video go through my Oppo 203 or my denon 4300h receiver. Is there a difference or advantages? What do most of yall do? Thx
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


??


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

What is the best screen to get for an all matte white room with no windows and no lights? I only have a couple of lamps down there.

There are four options on the silver ticket screens.

White
Silver
Gray
High contrast

Thanks again!


----------



## robc1976

MAYAmanIGN said:


> What is the best screen to get for an all matte white room with no windows and no lights? I only have a couple of lamps down there.
> 
> There are four options on the silver ticket screens.
> 
> White
> Silver
> Gray
> High contrast
> 
> Thanks again!


White, if no lights with 1.3 gain

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

I must have moved button on linker because I couldnt get HDR thru xbox so I moved the EDID button to middle and now get HDR.

Can somebody confirm there buttons look like mine on there linker.









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

MAYAmanIGN said:


> What is the best screen to get for an all matte white room with no windows and no lights? I only have a couple of lamps down there.
> 
> 
> 
> There are four options on the silver ticket screens.
> 
> 
> 
> White
> 
> Silver
> 
> Gray
> 
> High contrast
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again!




With silverticket screens I would go white but don’t discount the elites alr screens if your not putting the projector in a bat cave. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> I must have moved button on linker because I couldnt get HDR thru xbox so I moved the EDID button to middle and now get HDR.
> 
> Can somebody confirm there buttons look like mine on there linker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Rob I’ll pull out my stand and look this weekend if no one else responds 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Here are the settings. This was well over 15hrs and, multiple attempts of Calibrating with i1pro and HCFR
> 
> The gamma tracks very close if not right on the 2084 gamma curve in most areas. Contrast clipped around 3400 nits.
> 
> I see highlights I have never seen before and detail is amazing. Best picture I have seen on this projector or in my room. This is not a over saturated picture with tons of bright colors, its accurate colors.
> 
> Keep in mind these settings may not look good in your room, my room and screen may be very different. The faintest light can throw off a Calibration by miles.
> 
> Room: dedicated theater, with black walls, black carpet, black ceiling with 0 light.
> 
> Screen: Stewart Cima Neueve 156"
> 
> Everything I took pics of except gamma as it didn't show the value.
> 
> Gamma: 0,2,2,5,21,29,31,31,31
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



I’m just putzing around tonight messing with autobright, some patterns, a color filter, your color management settings, overall saturation, and gamma points 4,5,6 and hit on a decent gamma for autobright that works well with your low saturation cm settings. Bear in mind I didn’t bust out the meter for this, Im just board and thought some of you may like giving them a whirl for fun. 

Gamma: 0,2,2,5,13,21,31,31,31


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

OrcusVaruna said:


> With silverticket screens I would go white but don’t discount the elites alr screens if your not putting the projector in a bat cave.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Even if the walls and ceiling are matte white? Someone earlier said in a white room you want a gray screen or a darker contrast screen. I’ve been pouring over so many web pages and videos my head is spinning lol. It’s so easy to get confused and I don’t want to make a purchasing mistake.’

Thanks again for the settings.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

MAYAmanIGN said:


> Even if the walls and ceiling are matte white? Someone earlier said in a white room you want a gray screen or a darker contrast screen. I’ve been pouring over so many web pages and videos my head is spinning lol. It’s so easy to get confused and I don’t want to make a purchasing mistake.’
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the settings.



I had a high contrast grey silver ticket and it was very difficult to calibrate for since it introduces a strong blue and green push to the image and was just not a good screen material overall. I just think for the money there are better options especially if your after a grey screen. Elites ALR materials mop the floor with the grey and silver silverticket screens. Now if your going with their white material it’s very good for the price. But based on your room I would absolutely get an alr grey screen and would recommend the Elite Cinegrey 3D or 5D











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> I’m just putzing around tonight messing with autobright, some patterns, a color filter, your color management settings, overall saturation, and gamma points 4,5,6 and hit on a decent gamma for autobright that works well with your low saturation cm settings. Bear in mind I didn’t bust out the meter for this, Im just board and thought some of you may like giving them a whirl for fun.
> 
> Gamma: 0,2,2,5,13,21,31,31,31
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I actually thought about boosting saturation to 70+ for more color pop

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

I think mine is correct, hate to inconvenience you like that


OrcusVaruna said:


> Rob I’ll pull out my stand and look this weekend if no one else responds
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> I actually thought about boosting saturation to 70+ for more color pop
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




80 definitely pops but I think somewhere halfway like 72 would be perfect. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> I think mine is correct, hate to inconvenience you like that
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Not an inconvenience it definitely needs to be vacuumed back there anyway lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## coderguy

albo75 said:


> I've been reading through these pages for a while now, but am still a little confused on the 5040's 4k ability.
> 
> *Here's what I have now:*
> 
> Epson 8350
> Onkyo TX-SR608
> Xbox One
> PS 4
> Apple TV
> Panasonic Blu-ray
> 140" screen/wall at 14' from living room seating area with ambient lighting in the Spring/Summer months here in VT.
> 
> 
> *Here's what I'd like to upgrade to:*
> 
> Epson 5040
> Denon AVR-X1400H
> Xbox One X (and later a PS4Pro)
> 
> My thinking is to replace the ATV/Blu-ray and run everything through an Xbox One X, including Plex from my Mac Mini media server. My wife is the gamer, so I want the best possible quality from those games, but I'd also like to have the best movie watching ability with UHD Blu-ray media, and various streaming sites.
> 
> So, is this a good combo given the lack of 18mbps HDMI on the 5040, or am I never going to care?


Just a slightly off-topic warning...

1) I definitely prefer the sound of Denon over Onkyo's (I have owned multiple recent models of both - long story), but be very careful about the TRUE speaker Ohms rating if going for a Denon. All the Denons that are below the x3400h are very very easy to burn up. Speakers are often misrated, some speakers claim to be 6-8 ohms and are really 4-5 ohms. The Denon is probably ok if you keep a powered SUB hooked up, since that takes some load off the total wattage used. However, if you are doing ATMOS and all that, I'd be very careful, and don't run the thing without the sub hooked up as it will burn up. I know because I accidentally burned up some Denons using 5 Ohm speakers (depends how loud you listen), to where the Onkyo had no issue at all with the same speakers. I believe the Denons are Class A/B and the newest Onkyo's are Class D. The Class A/B receivers tend to get very very hot near the power components inside the unit. I would also definitely add an aftermarket cooler to the Denon, you can use a 'laptop cooler' to help remove airflow or buy a cooler specifically made for stereos.

2) You might also consider a JVC B-Stock compared to the next Epson model (if you are going to be waiting anyways). It is not always easy to find b-stock JVC's, but if you call around to multiple dealers, sometimes you can get a killer price on a B-stock JVC. It already has 18gbps and higher contrast than the Epsons, just no torch mode like the Epson. That said, the cost of the lamps does currently suck.


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> 80 definitely pops but I think somewhere halfway like 72 would be perfect.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have it at 68 but may go, up. Don't want any red hues ect

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Not an inconvenience it definitely needs to be vacuumed back there anyway lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Doing panel alignment. Have no idea b what to look for? What is the goal here?









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

I see what to do, blue was off a bit actually

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

robc1976 said:


> Doing panel alignment. Have no idea b what to look for? What is the goal here?


In that alignment mode if the lines all look white from your primary viewing position you probably have a decent panel alignment. You can meticulously manipulate each intersection point on the grid if you so choose. From my experience, panel misalignments should be most noticeable in images where you have areas that rapidly go from bright to dark (or vice-versa) in the matter of a few pixels (ie. sharp edges aka. a guy wearing black trench coat in white room *cough*matrix*cough*).

I also recommend checking/adjusting color uniformity (do this in Natural mode). My projector had a noticeable bias toward red in certain areas that I spotted a mile away. Easy to see in black and white movies, snow scenes, white rooms, and bright white 'explosions'. It too is a bit meticulous to adjust out but worth an evening - these heavily white/gray scenes look really good now.


----------



## robc1976

Lithium said:


> In that alignment mode if the lines all look white from your primary viewing position you probably have a decent panel alignment. You can meticulously manipulate each intersection point on the grid if you so choose. From my experience, panel misalignments should be most noticeable in images where you have areas that rapidly go from bright to dark (or vice-versa) in the matter of a few pixels (ie. sharp edges aka. a guy wearing black trench coat in white room *cough*matrix*cough*).
> 
> I also recommend checking/adjusting color uniformity (do this in Natural mode). My projector had a noticeable bias toward red in certain areas that I spotted a mile away. Easy to see in black and white movies, snow scenes, white rooms, and bright white 'explosions'. It too is a bit meticulous to adjust out but worth an evening - these heavily white/gray scenes look really good now.


I am one of those weirdos that crituqued every point lol

Did notice blue was out slightly 3 clicks mainly on vertical lines. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Lithium said:


> In that alignment mode if the lines all look white from your primary viewing position you probably have a decent panel alignment. You can meticulously manipulate each intersection point on the grid if you so choose. From my experience, panel misalignments should be most noticeable in images where you have areas that rapidly go from bright to dark (or vice-versa) in the matter of a few pixels (ie. sharp edges aka. a guy wearing black trench coat in white room *cough*matrix*cough*).
> 
> I also recommend checking/adjusting color uniformity (do this in Natural mode). My projector had a noticeable bias toward red in certain areas that I spotted a mile away. Easy to see in black and white movies, snow scenes, white rooms, and bright white 'explosions'. It too is a bit meticulous to adjust out but worth an evening - these heavily white/gray scenes look really good now.


I looked at color uniformity but it looked crazy lol

When adjusting what are you looking for or more of what do the adjustments effect

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

robc1976 said:


> I looked at color uniformity but it looked crazy lol
> 
> When adjusting what are you looking for or more of what do the adjustments effect


Every projector is going to be different, obviously. If I recall the red bias was overall but a bit stronger on the left hand side. I started with the brightest pattern and worked my way down. I can't remember off hand but I think I adjusted the blue to cancel out the red. Ultimately, I pretty much only adjusted one color in all the patterns to cancel the red out. So starting with the brightest white pattern I adjusted the overall panel down until the right hand part was a true white, then I adjusted only the left side (and maybe the top corner - again every panel will be different) to neutralize out any remaining red. Then I just repeated those steps with the gray patterns adjusting out any remaining red bias. My gray patterns all ended up with basically the same adjustment on each.


----------



## robc1976

Lithium said:


> Every projector is going to be different, obviously. If I recall the red bias was overall but a bit stronger on the left hand side. I started with the brightest pattern and worked my way down. I can't remember off hand but I think I adjusted the blue to cancel out the red. Ultimately, I pretty much only adjusted one color in all the patterns to cancel the red out. So starting with the brightest white pattern I adjusted the overall panel down until the right hand part was a true white, then I adjusted only the left side (and maybe the top corner - again every panel will be different) to neutralize out any remaining red. Then I just repeated those steps with the gray patterns adjusting out any remaining red bias. My gray patterns all ended up with basically the same adjustment on each.


Okay that makes sense

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## ccotenj

OrcusVaruna said:


> Not an inconvenience it definitely needs to be vacuumed back there anyway lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i’m almost afraid to pull out my rack and see what is behind there, lol.


----------



## Evan201

Ok. I'm thoroughly impressed with the new Panasonic UB820. Tons of HDR control and even the HDR>SDR conversion while keeping BT2020 4:2:2 looks amazing. I'll be sticking with the HDR signal. Did my basic calibration for clipping black, white, and color using Masciola patterns. 
My Epson dynamic range in signal menu is set to "auto" instead of "auto-bright" and gamma at 0, color temperature at 6500k in natural mode. High lamp for the good stuff. 
On panny, HDR optimizer is on and color adjustment is boosted to +12. Sometimes Dynamic Range slider to +8 max. 
Display type set to Basic/Projector for optimizer. 
HUGE step in the right direction from my old Phillips BDP7501. Everyone with a projector should own this player. If you have an SDR only display and are looking for the best HDR>SDR conversion with BT2020 preserved, this is the player for you. 
Completely stoked.


----------



## sddp

nickoakdl said:


> I just changed screens from a 133" 16:9 Da-lite High Power 2.4 to a 158" white 2.35:1 Silver Ticket. Here are some images taken from my phone for those interested.


So after your pics of your screen in your room which is similar to mine. I've been researching a lot to go 2:35. I have Elite Screen 150" Cinegrey 3D which is a 1.3 gain edge free. Completely content with it. But I keep looking at your pics and WOW what a game changer. I do NOT want to loose my height by goint 2:35 so after getting a custom quote from Elite Screen to go 175" which is about 162" wide and 68" in height I would only loose 3" from my current set up and can live with that. (as I game on XBOX a lot and do not want to loose the height in 16:9 and also all the Transformers films are IMAX 16:9). 

But here is the issue I have ran into after a ton of research over the last few weeks.
Elite doesn't make a cinegrey 3D (1.3 gain). In the custom size I requested they only have a 1.3 White or 1.5 gain in grey and I think 1.5 is WAY over board.

If I can get your input, suggestions. ideas (or anyone else please jump in) what are the pros and cons of going to white.

At night my room is dark enough to not see the table or anything. I had to take black tape off of on my light switches on the wall just so I know where its at.

I feel that on a white screen I won't get as dark or black one films like Star Wars and the DC Batman films, but films in 3D like Transformers would pop out with more richer colors?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> So after your pics of your screen in your room which is similar to mine. I've been researching a lot to go 2:35. I have Elite Screen 150" Cinegrey 3D which is a 1.3 gain edge free. Completely content with it. But I keep looking at your pics and WOW what a game changer. I do NOT want to loose my height by goint 2:35 so after getting a custom quote from Elite Screen to go 175" which is about 162" wide and 68" in height I would only loose 3" from my current set up and can live with that. (as I game on XBOX a lot and do not want to loose the height in 16:9 and also all the Transformers films are IMAX 16:9).
> 
> 
> 
> But here is the issue I have ran into after a ton of research over the last few weeks.
> 
> Elite doesn't make a cinegrey 3D (1.3 gain). In the custom size I requested they only have a 1.3 White or 1.5 gain in grey and I think 1.5 is WAY over board.
> 
> 
> 
> If I can get your input, suggestions. ideas (or anyone else please jump in) what are the pros and cons of going to white.
> 
> 
> 
> At night my room is dark enough to not see the table or anything. I had to take black tape off of on my light switches on the wall just so I know where its at.
> 
> 
> 
> I feel that on a white screen I won't get as dark or black one films like Star Wars and the DC Batman films, but films in 3D like Transformers would pop out with more richer colors?




If the projector is calibrated correctly to compensate the color of the screen should have zero effect on color. Also, unless you have a bat cave with dark walls I would not switch from an alr screen as the reflections from lighter walls will reflect back on the screen raising black levels significantly. Having previously owned a silver ticket matte white screen in a non bat cave I could never switch back from the Cinegrey 3D the effect of the reflections is that pronounced. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nickoakdl

sddp said:


> I feel that on a white screen I won't get as dark or black one films like Star Wars and the DC Batman films, but films in 3D like Transformers would pop out with more richer colors?


Honestly, whatever difference there is in the screen materials, your brain forgets about it as long as you aren't bouncing back and forth between 2 different materials and you properly adjust your calibration.

Obviously the high power screen was brighter, but I went without a screen for 2 weeks and tweaked my settings t my Silver Ticket screen and I miss nothing.


----------



## avtoronto

Evan201 said:


> Ok. I'm thoroughly impressed with the new Panasonic UB820. Tons of HDR control and even the HDR>SDR conversion while keeping BT2020 4:2:2 looks amazing. I'll be sticking with the HDR signal. Did my basic calibration for clipping black, white, and color using Masciola patterns.
> My Epson dynamic range in signal menu is set to "auto" instead of "auto-bright" and gamma at 0, color temperature at 6500k in natural mode. High lamp for the good stuff.
> On panny, HDR optimizer is on and color adjustment is boosted to +12. Nothing else.
> Display type set to Basic/Projector for optimizer.
> HUGE step in the right direction from my old Phillips BDP7501. Everyone with a projector should own this player. If you have an SDR only display and are looking for the best HDR>SDR conversion with BT2020 preserved, this is the player for you.
> Completely stoked.


Evan201:
Would you give "Digital Cinema" a try and report back?


----------



## albo75

coderguy said:


> Just a slightly off-topic warning...
> 
> 1) I definitely prefer the sound of Denon over Onkyo's (I have owned multiple recent models of both - long story), but be very careful about the TRUE speaker Ohms rating if going for a Denon. All the Denons that are below the x3400h are very very easy to burn up. Speakers are often misrated, some speakers claim to be 6-8 ohms and are really 4-5 ohms.


Good to know! I'll double check my speakers before buying. I do have a sub however.



coderguy said:


> 2) You might also consider a JVC B-Stock compared to the next Epson model (if you are going to be waiting anyways). It is not always easy to find b-stock JVC's, but if you call around to multiple dealers, sometimes you can get a killer price on a B-stock JVC. It already has 18gbps and higher contrast than the Epsons, just no torch mode like the Epson. That said, the cost of the lamps does currently suck.


What model are you suggesting?


----------



## Lithium

avtoronto said:


> Evan201:
> Would you give "Digital Cinema" a try and report back?


+1

I would be interested in hearing your opinion/seeing the results of digital cinema (and/or a comparison vs. HarperVision). Then again, I'm a sucker for the WCG more than the HDR when it comes to projectors.


----------



## hifiheaven

avtoronto said:


> Evan201:
> Would you give "Digital Cinema" a try and report back?


What movie are the first two pictures from?


----------



## robc1976

Lithium said:


> Every projector is going to be different, obviously. If I recall the red bias was overall but a bit stronger on the left hand side. I started with the brightest pattern and worked my way down. I can't remember off hand but I think I adjusted the blue to cancel out the red. Ultimately, I pretty much only adjusted one color in all the patterns to cancel the red out. So starting with the brightest white pattern I adjusted the overall panel down until the right hand part was a true white, then I adjusted only the left side (and maybe the top corner - again every panel will be different) to neutralize out any remaining red. Then I just repeated those steps with the gray patterns adjusting out any remaining red bias. My gray patterns all ended up with basically the same adjustment on each.


Mine had 0 adjustments there, brightest Pattern was completely white with no red or blue hues anywhere. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

robc1976 said:


> Mine had 0 adjustments there, brightest Pattern was completely white with no red or blue hues anywhere.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Is it supposed to be either against red or blue? On my right side, it's not as white as it is on the left. Maybe 1/4 of the screen, all the way from the top to the bottom. I think it's beige or something like that. Or can it be dust?

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

robc1976 said:


> Mine had 0 adjustments there, brightest Pattern was completely white with no red or blue hues anywhere.


Nice! I'm jealous 



westbergjoakim said:


> Is it supposed to be either against red or blue? On my right side, it's not as white as it is on the left. Maybe 1/4 of the screen, all the way from the top to the bottom. I think it's beige or something like that. Or can it be dust?


Might need to see a picture of it to get a better idea. Does adjusting any of the colors a few ticks filter it away?


----------



## westbergjoakim

Lithium said:


> Nice! I'm jealous
> 
> 
> 
> Might need to see a picture of it to get a better idea. Does adjusting any of the colors a few ticks filter it away?


I haven't tried yet. Not sure if you can see anything. I think that it's only in white I see it.










Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

avtoronto said:


> Evan201:
> Would you give "Digital Cinema" a try and report back?


First two shots are Batman V. Superman when the Flash shows up visiting Bruce Wayne from the future in the Bat cave. Extremely bright highlights mastered to 4000 nits in that scene. 

I honestly can't stomach digi cin. Way too dim for my liking. Have to squeeze out every bit of light I can.

I'll try it soon and report back. I have a wedding tonight. May take me a bit to get to it.


----------



## inspector

I see pink and green. My Epson 9500 was showing the same thing and it progressively got worse.


----------



## shazza6887

Hey Guys,


I have a chance to upgrade from my 9300 (6040ub) to a Sony 260 (285ES) for a difference of about 1500Aus. Obviously going from e shift to native 4k should be an upgrade but having a look at Lamp prices here the epson is about 140au and the Sony is at a whopping 650au not to mention its only rated at 1500 hours in high mode. My question is will it be a substantial and worthwhile upgrade over the epson?


----------



## Hawkmarket

shazza6887 said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> 
> I have a chance to upgrade from my 9300 (6040ub) to a Sony 260 (285ES) for a difference of about 1500Aus. Obviously going from e shift to native 4k should be an upgrade but having a look at Lamp prices here the epson is about 140au and the Sony is at a whopping 650au not to mention its only rated at 1500 hours in high mode. My question is will it be a substantial and worthwhile upgrade over the epson?


What size screen?


----------



## epetti

I'm being my 200 hour mark on the 5040. It's been great so far, doing some basic calibration using WOW for SDR and some settings from here for HDR. It looks pretty good but I want to take it the extra mile and get it professionally calibrated. I thought about going the route of figuring it out on my own following the Calibration thread for Epson. But limited available free time and the finickiness of HDR leans me the professional route. 

So, any recommendations on how best to find a professional calibrator who would understand the nuances of Epson projectors specifically for HDR?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

epetti said:


> I'm being my 200 hour mark on the 5040. It's been great so far, doing some basic calibration using WOW for SDR and some settings from here for HDR. It looks pretty good but I want to take it the extra mile and get it professionally calibrated. I thought about going the route of figuring it out on my own following the Calibration thread for Epson. But limited available free time and the finickiness of HDR leans me the professional route.
> 
> So, any recommendations on how best to find a professional calibrator who would understand the nuances of Epson projectors specifically for HDR?




Look for an epson dealer with an isf or thx calibrator on staff. Also imo the low end Sony 4Ks do not get anywhere near bright enough for hdr material so a well calibrated 5040 is the better hdr option imo. Honestly from the projectors I’ve seen a well calibrated 5040 puts out a better HDR image then everything but a jvc in a bat cave and the 25k and up Sony’s. And this is from personally seeing just about every high end projector out, one of the perks of living in west palm beach I guess lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shazza6887

Yeah i will be building a new house in 4-6 months and will have a full dedicated cinema room. Will be going for either a 120-135 inch screen. Getting it professionally calibrated may also be an option  Maybe i will stick with it for the forseeable future if i am not going to get that massive jump in quality and performance.


----------



## Lithium

westbergjoakim said:


> I haven't tried yet. Not sure if you can see anything. I think that it's only in white I see it.


Yeah, hard to tell from the screen captures. I understand that in person it might be more noticeable. You'll have to experiment a little bit with the uniformity to see if any adjustments affect it in any way.



Evan201 said:


> First two shots are Batman V. Superman when the Flash shows up visiting Bruce Wayne from the future in the Bat cave. Extremely bright highlights mastered to 4000 nits in that scene.
> 
> I honestly can't stomach digi cin. Way too dim for my liking. Have to squeeze out every bit of light I can.
> 
> I'll try it soon and report back. I have a wedding tonight. May take me a bit to get to it.


Fyi, on another forum Kris Deering recommends running SDR2020 with HDR Optimizer ON and the brightness slider somewhere between 4 and 6 for projector owners. Basically, the reasoning is to avoid tone mapping at the player and then tone mapping again at the projector.


----------



## robc1976

Evan201 said:


> First two shots are Batman V. Superman when the Flash shows up visiting Bruce Wayne from the future in the Bat cave. Extremely bright highlights mastered to 4000 nits in that scene.
> 
> I honestly can't stomach digi cin. Way too dim for my liking. Have to squeeze out every bit of light I can.
> 
> I'll try it soon and report back. I have a wedding tonight. May take me a bit to get to it.


Natural is best for light output/correct colors.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Evan201 said:


> First two shots are Batman V. Superman when the Flash shows up visiting Bruce Wayne from the future in the Bat cave. Extremely bright highlights mastered to 4000 nits in that scene.
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly can't stomach digi cin. Way too dim for my liking. Have to squeeze out every bit of light I can.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try it soon and report back. I have a wedding tonight. May take me a bit to get to it.




I agree with rob natural is the way to go and the projector still gets very close to p3 even without the filter (like close enough for it not to matter for the human eye). To compensate for reduced black levels just clamp the manual iris and clamp it more on smaller screens and less on larger ones. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

Lithium said:


> Fyi, on another forum Kris Deering recommends running SDR2020 with HDR Optimizer ON and the brightness slider somewhere between 4 and 6 for projector owners. Basically, the reasoning is to avoid tone mapping at the player and then tone mapping again at the projector.


Any chance of a link to that forum?


----------



## rawardy

*Epson 5040UBe Woes*

Hi, long time lurker here and purchased this projector after reading forum posts by owners on AVSForum. Unfortunately I've had a run of very bad luck with it. Basically the projector died on me last night. I bought the projector from the US in January and moved back home to the UK a few months ago (due to circumstances out of my control). I emailed Epson UK and they didn't want to know and pointed me to Epson USA, from which I received a dismissive we can't help if you're outside the USA. I can't even ship it there, out of my own pocket to be fixed under Warranty.

What makes this worse is that it appears I have a well known defect with the power supply where by my $3000 projector is essentially outlasted by the bulb it came with.
here be the link to the power supply failure thread..

avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2956744-epson-5040-6040-9300-uk-power-supply-failure-rate.html (I can't post URLS yet)
(I wish I came about that thread before I purchased)

So I'm at a loss of how to deal with this, it took me a long time to save up for this, my first ever projector, and after the move back home I can't afford super expensive repairs. Part of me is thinking of just cutting my losses and selling it on eBay for parts. Does anyone know anybody cheap and reputable who can fix this issue and a round about price I can expect? I may fix it and sell it as a refurb if it makes financial sense. If anyone has any other ideas on how I can sort this, I'm all ears.

I know in the warranty terms and conditions I'm not covered out of the USA, but Epson sold me a faulty product with a known fault. A reputable company would take some responsibility for that, or at least reach some sort of compromise, instead I got standard corporate dismissiveness, contrary to the good things I've heard about their customer service in the past.. Epson never again.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

I’m not sure why anyone would need the tone mapping of a $500 blu-ray player. If you use @robc1976 settings or my variation of it this is completely unnecessary. Some of the older settings crushed black levels hard but we have generally figured out what we’re doing with calibrations at this point. By dropping CMS saturation down for all colors but green, manipulating gamma points 3 4 & 5, and up-saturating the overall color pallet with the general control, we can now drive very high values for middle gamma points which reveals both shadow and white detail without the subsequent crushing and clipping of our earlier attempts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mike Garrett

rawardy said:


> Hi, long time lurker here and purchased this projector after reading forum posts by owners on AVSForum. Unfortunately I've had a run of very bad luck with it. Basically the projector died on me last night. I bought the projector from the US in January and moved back home to the UK a few months ago (due to circumstances out of my control). I emailed Epson UK and they didn't want to know and pointed me to Epson USA, from which I received a dismissive we can't help if you're outside the USA. I can't even ship it there, out of my own pocket to be fixed under Warranty.
> 
> What makes this worse is that it appears I have a well known defect with the power supply where by my $3000 projector is essentially outlasted by the bulb it came with.
> here be the link to the power supply failure thread..
> 
> avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2956744-epson-5040-6040-9300-uk-power-supply-failure-rate.html (I can't post URLS yet)
> (I wish I came about that thread before I purchased)
> 
> So I'm at a loss of how to deal with this, it took me a long time to save up for this, my first ever projector, and after the move back home I can't afford super expensive repairs. Part of me is thinking of just cutting my losses and selling it on eBay for parts. Does anyone know anybody cheap and reputable who can fix this issue and a round about price I can expect? I may fix it and sell it as a refurb if it makes financial sense. If anyone has any other ideas on how I can sort this, I'm all ears.
> 
> I know in the warranty terms and conditions I'm not covered out of the USA, but Epson sold me a faulty product with a known fault. A reputable company would take some responsibility for that, or at least reach some sort of compromise, instead I got standard corporate dismissiveness, contrary to the good things I've heard about their customer service in the past.. Epson never again.


Have you talked to the dealer? Should be able to send the projector to them to have it sent in. You are going to be paying for shipping to and from the US.


----------



## Evan201

Hey guys, 



If I want to try to achieve around a 2.4 gamma on the Epson, but don't have a light reader or any hardware to read off the screen, would setting the Gamma setting to +2 get me closer to achieving this rather than leaving Gamma at standard 0 setting? Or do these numbers not correlate?


----------



## rawardy

Mike Garrett said:


> Have you talked to the dealer? Should be able to send the projector to them to have it sent in. You are going to be paying for shipping to and from the US.


I'm shopping around repair shops in the UK at the moment in the off chance it works out cheaper than return shipping. Also considering just getting on a plane and walking it into a US shop. Might as well make a holiday out of it.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Evan201 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> 
> If I want to try to achieve around a 2.4 gamma on the Epson, but don't have a light reader or any hardware to read off the screen, would setting the Gamma setting to +2 get me closer to achieving this rather than leaving Gamma at standard 0 setting? Or do these numbers not correlate?




A custom gamma of 0,-3,-5,-6,-6,-6,-6,-6,0 should get you close enough for both natural and cinema. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

OrcusVaruna said:


> A custom gamma of 0,-3,-5,-6,-6,-6,-6,-6,0 should get you close enough for both natural and cinema.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks for your response. I like sticking to Natural for any SDR. I literally never touch Cinema or Digi Cinema because the light just dies. 


By chance did you see in my signature I'm using an Elite Cinegrey 5d? Think this will change those numbers you mentioned?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Evan201 said:


> Thanks for your response. I like sticking to Natural for any SDR. I literally never touch Cinema or Digi Cinema because the light just dies.
> 
> 
> By chance did you see in my signature I'm using an Elite Cinegrey 5d? Think this will change those numbers you mentioned?




Not much as I use a Cinegrey 3D and besides the slightly higher gain they are very similar materials. Also what size screen are you using? I think you would be surprised what cinema can do for night time sdr viewing. I’ll give you that It looks dim at first but once your eyes adjust it really is a treat. I find it sends contrast through the roof especially if you clamp down the manual iris down to -8ish and run the auto iris on high. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

OrcusVaruna said:


> Not much as I use a Cinegrey 3D and besides the slightly higher gain they are very similar materials. Also what size screen are you using? I think you would be surprised what cinema can do for night time sdr viewing. I’ll give you that It looks dim at first but once your eyes adjust it really is a treat. I find it sends contrast through the roof especially if you clamp down the manual iris down to -8ish and run the auto iris on high.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Sounds cool. I'm using a 105" screen with PJ about 11-12 feet away.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Evan201 said:


> Sounds cool. I'm using a 105" screen with PJ about 11-12 feet away.




Ya I’m running cinema on eco mode with the auto iris on high and manual clamped to -10 on a 100” 3D. For reference a movie theater only has about 16fl of light coming off a screen and those settings get me to about 22-24fl which is still significantly more light then is truly needed for sdr in a dark room. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

OrcusVaruna said:


> Ya I’m running cinema on eco mode with the auto iris on high and manual clamped to -10 on a 100” 3D. For reference a movie theater only has about 16fl of light coming off a screen and those settings get me to about 22-24fl which is still significantly more light then is truly needed for sdr in a dark room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'll give it a shot. Man I need to get some hardware/software to start measuring.


----------



## jpgfontes

OrcusVaruna said:


> Ya I’m running cinema on eco mode with the auto iris on high and manual clamped to -10 on a 100” 3D. For reference a movie theater only has about 16fl of light coming off a screen and those settings get me to about 22-24fl which is still significantly more light then is truly needed for sdr in a dark room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What is you screen gain? 
I don't use the Iris and I'm only getting 16-17fl with my 115" screen on natural and Eco. Probably because it's a grey 0,8 - 0,9 gain...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jpgfontes said:


> What is you screen gain?
> 
> I don't use the Iris and I'm only getting 16-17fl with my 115" screen on natural and Eco. Probably because it's a grey 0,8 - 0,9 gain...




1.3 gain and the projector is at is minimum throw for my screen size so I’m not loosing any light to zooming and my screen is higher gain and smaller then yours. Evan is using a 1.5 gain screen and it’s only a few inches larger. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Scott27

OrcusVaruna said:


> A custom gamma of 0,-3,-5,-6,-6,-6,-6,-6,0 should get you close enough for both natural and cinema.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ive also just started playing around with recommended settings from this thread. The settings mentioned back at bottom of page 500 are for HDR images? And the gamma you state above (using Cinema mode?) is what you are using for SDR??

So I assume you have at least one HDR and one SDR setting saved to memory?


----------



## Evan201

robc1976 said:


> Here are the settings. This was well over 15hrs and, multiple attempts of Calibrating with i1pro and HCFR
> 
> The gamma tracks very close if not right on the 2084 gamma curve in most areas. Contrast clipped around 3400 nits.
> 
> I see highlights I have never seen before and detail is amazing. Best picture I have seen on this projector or in my room. This is not a over saturated picture with tons of bright colors, its accurate colors.
> 
> Keep in mind these settings may not look good in your room, my room and screen may be very different. The faintest light can throw off a Calibration by miles.
> 
> Room: dedicated theater, with black walls, black carpet, black ceiling with 0 light.
> 
> Screen: Stewart Cima Neueve 156"
> 
> Everything I took pics of except gamma as it didn't show the value.
> 
> Gamma: 0,2,2,5,21,29,31,31,31
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



Super white on in "auto" will definitely smoosh those highlights down to a nice visible level. Bat cave is beneficial. What screen?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Scott27 said:


> Ive also just started playing around with recommended settings from this thread. The settings mentioned back at bottom of page 500 are for HDR images? And the gamma you state above (using Cinema mode?) is what you are using for SDR??
> 
> 
> 
> So I assume you have at least one HDR and one SDR setting saved to memory?




Yes I’m running an hdr setting, an sdr dark room, and an sdr bright room setting for daytime viewing. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Scott27

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes I’m running an hdr setting, an sdr dark room, and an sdr bright room setting for daytime viewing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Any chance you would be willing to share your sdr dark room settings? Would be keen to try them out, as the HDR ones are fantastic!!


----------



## Evan201

OrcusVaruna said:


> A custom gamma of 0,-3,-5,-6,-6,-6,-6,-6,0 should get you close enough for both natural and cinema.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Tried this gamma out and re-did a simple black, white, and color clipping calibration. Also clamped down the iris to -8. 
Gotta say my SDR Rec 709 just took a step up so thank you sir. I was over saturated before for sure. Still getting the color clipping settings down.


----------



## avtoronto

OrcusVaruna said:


> As soon as I’m fully happy with the hybrid settings I will post them



Any closer to 'hybrid nirvana', OrcusVaruna?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Scott27 said:


> Any chance you would be willing to share your sdr dark room settings? Would be keen to try them out, as the HDR ones are fantastic!!




Ill post them up later today


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> Any closer to 'hybrid nirvana', OrcusVaruna?




I will post what I have later, not yet perfect but pretty close for me. It really is more of a trade off then anything though. With autobright the image overall is a bit blown out (but with the new settings all the white detail is there) and you loose a bit of the wonderful hdr specular highlighting but you gain image brightness and shadow contrast (every different shade of grey is visible and vibrant). With @robc1976 settings every bit of image detail is there and specular highlights are wonderful but the image in darker indoor scenes is a bit dull. So it really will come down to a matter of taste. Another way to look at it is my settings are more dynamic while robs are more accurate. The annoying thing is for some content, especially those with entirely digital workflows like lost in space or blade runner 2049 I like using autobright and with film based hdr I like @robc1976 auto settings. Not to say either settings look bad when used on the other content, they don’t. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> I will post what I have later, not yet perfect but pretty close for me. It really is more of a trade off then anything though. With autobright the image overall is a bit blown out (but with the new settings all the white detail is there) and you loose a bit of the wonderful hdr specular highlighting but you gain image brightness and shadow contrast (every different shade of grey is visible and vibrant). With @robc1976 settings every bit of image detail is there and specular highlights are wonderful but the image in darker indoor scenes is a bit dull. So it really will come down to a matter of taste. Another way to look at it is my settings are more dynamic while robs are more accurate. The annoying thing is for some content, especially those with entirely digital workflows like lost in space or blade runner 2049 I like using autobright and with film based hdr I like @robc1976 auto settings. Not to say either settings look bad when used on the other content, they don’t.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Also, keep in mind when it comes to low light detail it comes down to screen. My sceen has crazy detail in dark screen but on my buddies room almost identical rooms its not as detailed because his screen is much different. Also some movies seem dark like assassin's creed, underworld ect but look great in rampage, superman ect

I 100% agree with spectacular highlights... Its my favorite part. To really see this play assassins creed orgins and go to night time and the shield and sword reflect moonlight and its jaw dropping.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Also need to update brightness settings, you cant set brightness with another source when Calibrating. My patterns came from HCFR via chromecast but never really set with pattern

With HDR you don't set brightness like you do with SDR. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

Absolutely loving the new Panasonic UB820 with the Epson 5040. 

Running HDR 4k 24p 12bit 4:2:2 

Epson 5040ub on Natural Mode > High Lamp > with Dynamic Range signal to "Auto." (Auto-Bright blows it out and ruins colors) 

Black, White, and Color clipping dialed in via R. Masciola patterns for HDR10. 

820 HDR Optimizer On
Dynamic Range slider to +8
Color Adjustment in 820 +12 

Ready Player One looks outstanding with these settings. Really happy with it. The brightness is more than enough and the 820 keeps the highlights from blowing with the awesome HDR optimizer.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Also, keep in mind when it comes to low light detail it comes down to screen. My sceen has crazy detail in dark screen but on my buddies room almost identical rooms its not as detailed because his screen is much different. Also some movies seem dark like assassin's creed, underworld ect but look great in rampage, superman ect
> 
> I 100% agree with spectacular highlights... Its my favorite part. To really see this play assassins creed orgins and go to night time and the shield and sword reflect moonlight and its jaw dropping.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Yes absolutely agree screen and room will play a huge part an alr screen in a living room will likely use autobright while a white high gain screen in a bat cave will likely much prefer auto.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Also need to update brightness settings, you cant set brightness with another source when Calibrating. My patterns came from HCFR via chromecast but never really set with pattern
> 
> With HDR you don't set brightness like you do with SDR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Absolutely I have actually had better luck setting brightness for hdr correctly with the brightness calibrator in ea games like assassins creed and destiny then I have with hdr patterns lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes absolutely agree screen and room will play a huge part an alr screen in a living room will likely use autobright while a white high gain screen in a bat cave will likely much prefer auto.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'm finding AUTO to be much preferred for color preservation. The UB820 from panasonic has the dynamic range slider. Pump that up to +8 combined with the "auto" and man, its really amazing. I'm using a grey screen. Cinegrey 5d.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Evan201 said:


> I'm finding AUTO to be much preferred for color preservation. The UB820 from panasonic has the dynamic range slider. Pump that up to +8 combined with the "auto" and man, its really amazing. I'm using a grey screen. Cinegrey 5d.




You get around the color pumping by reducing individual color saturation in the color management system it’s not perfect but it works. Your basically achieving the same thing I am with autobright and low cms saturation values by running auto and driving the increased dynamic range with the player.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Scott27

OrcusVaruna said:


> Ill post them up later today
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Awesome thanks Orcus!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Scott27 said:


> Awesome thanks Orcus!




Here ya go!












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

rawardy said:


> Hi, long time lurker here and purchased this projector after reading forum posts by owners on AVSForum. Unfortunately I've had a run of very bad luck with it. Basically the projector died on me last night. I bought the projector from the US in January and moved back home to the UK a few months ago (due to circumstances out of my control). I emailed Epson UK and they didn't want to know and pointed me to Epson USA, from which I received a dismissive we can't help if you're outside the USA. I can't even ship it there, out of my own pocket to be fixed under Warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> What makes this worse is that it appears I have a well known defect with the power supply where by my $3000 projector is essentially outlasted by the bulb it came with.
> 
> here be the link to the power supply failure thread..
> 
> 
> 
> avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2956744-epson-5040-6040-9300-uk-power-supply-failure-rate.html (I can't post URLS yet)
> 
> (I wish I came about that thread before I purchased)
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm at a loss of how to deal with this, it took me a long time to save up for this, my first ever projector, and after the move back home I can't afford super expensive repairs. Part of me is thinking of just cutting my losses and selling it on eBay for parts. Does anyone know anybody cheap and reputable who can fix this issue and a round about price I can expect? I may fix it and sell it as a refurb if it makes financial sense. If anyone has any other ideas on how I can sort this, I'm all ears.
> 
> 
> 
> I know in the warranty terms and conditions I'm not covered out of the USA, but Epson sold me a faulty product with a known fault. A reputable company would take some responsibility for that, or at least reach some sort of compromise, instead I got standard corporate dismissiveness, contrary to the good things I've heard about their customer service in the past.. Epson never again.




Wow. That sucks. Why can’t the warranty be worldwide? Apple warranty is world wide. My brother bought an iPhone in the US for my sister in India and they provided warranty service (in fact replaced it for free in India). 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Scott27

OrcusVaruna said:


> Here ya go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks Orcus, much appreciated! In sdr settings you have super white on and hdmi video range expanded? Assume one of these is a typo?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Scott27 said:


> Thanks Orcus, much appreciated! In sdr settings you have super white on and hdmi video range expanded? Assume one of these is a typo?



Anytime and Yes superwhite on as video range is locked on auto with superwhite on. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rawardy

bommai said:


> Wow. That sucks. Why can’t the warranty be worldwide? Apple warranty is world wide. My brother bought an iPhone in the US for my sister in India and they provided warranty service (in fact replaced it for free in India).
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


 I know! It's madness. Even with their poor regional warranty coverage, the fact they continue to sell a product with a known defect and unacceptable failure rate is terrible. I've been reading through Amazon reviews and there are folks on their 3rd refurbished unit at this point. This can't be doing good things for their brand. They aren't even willing to compromise and let me ship it to and from the US out of my own pocket.

All I got back was, essentially, you are not a US customer so we won't help. Then they linked me to a webpage which is just a list of all the Epson regional websites and closed the ticket. They said I can reopen the ticket "if I have any more queries" but there seems to be no way of doing so on the website. It's arbitrary and nonsensical.


----------



## rawardy

*Update*

I took a shot in the dark last night and emailed the Vice President, Service and Distribution of Epson US. I just now got a call from Epson UK and they are sending someone round tomorrow to take a look at the projector. Well that's a turn up for the books.


----------



## avtoronto

rawardy said:


> I took a shot in the dark last night and emailed the Vice President, Service and Distribution of Epson US. I just now got a call from Epson UK and they are sending someone round tomorrow to take a look at the projector. Well that's a turn up for the books.


That's good to hear. Too bad it takes that kind of escalation to get a useful response. I agree with you Epson's brand had been damaged by this 5040 power problem. Too bad Epson has not tried to get in front of the problem and handle it in a more professional way, issuing formal communication about it and what Epson will do to address it.


----------



## gene4ht

rawardy said:


> I took a shot in the dark last night and emailed the Vice President, Service and Distribution of Epson US. I just now got a call from Epson UK and they are sending someone round tomorrow to take a look at the projector. Well that's a turn up for the books.





avtoronto said:


> That's good to hear. Too bad it takes that kind of escalation to get a useful response. I agree with you Epson's brand had been damaged by this 5040 power problem.* Too bad Epson has not tried to get in front of the problem and handle it in a more professional way, issuing formal communication about it and what Epson will do to address it.*



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-499.html#post56500416


----------



## Iceman24

I have this projector and to connect through wall and ceiling, I may need fiber cable, as it may be over 25 feet. The Monoprice SlimRun AV HDR cables work, but don't support ARC. As far as I know, CEC is a prerequisite for ARC and not the other way around, but I can't find anything on it. If I use cable that doesn't support ARC, will CEC still work? Is there anything I'd lose by not having ARC? I won't be playing content from projector.


----------



## robc1976

If you calibrate with HCFR via chromecast then you have to set brightness sane way.

If you use say xbox or usb stick it via bluray it is usually way off because the sources are different.

HDR 10 has some good patterns but are used via bluray usb and won't match calibration. Going to use HCFR today.

But agree the assassin's creed origins us a good way for general brightness.


OrcusVaruna said:


> Absolutely I have actually had better luck setting brightness for hdr correctly with the brightness calibrator in ea games like assassins creed and destiny then I have with hdr patterns lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Player also messes with black levels


OrcusVaruna said:


> You get around the color pumping by reducing individual color saturation in the color management system it’s not perfect but it works. Your basically achieving the same thing I am with autobright and low cms saturation values by running auto and driving the increased dynamic range with the player.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> If you calibrate with HCFR via chromecast then you have to set brightness sane way.
> 
> If you use say xbox or usb stick it via bluray it is usually way off because the sources are different.
> 
> HDR 10 has some good patterns but are used via bluray usb and won't match calibration. Going to use HCFR today.
> 
> But agree the assassin's creed origins us a good way for general brightness.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



Yup let me know how it goes. The funny thing is HDR is affected by literally everything in the device chain that even with calibrating with patterns over my chromecast or via plex on my Xbox I still end up making considerable adjustments by eye using my calibrated monitor as a reference. I feel HDR will be a niche product until they fix these issues. Case in point I had to face time my mom the other night and walk her through forcing sdr in Netflix on her new tv because the hdr was basically unwatchable. If I didn’t walk her through it she would have probably thought the tv was broken and returned it lol. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

robc1976 said:


> Player also messes with black levels
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




Ya that’s why I’d never want a player forcing adjustments on the image as well. HDR looks great with the settings we have going now. I must say I really like your current gamma and cms values. You have a lot more patience then I do as I get VERY frustrated with the epson and struggle to adjust the cms while getting the gamma to track right. I seem to do much better when I take a someone else’s gamma tweak it a bit for my screen and use the cms for the majority of the calibration. It’s still not perfect but more then acceptable for my coke bottle corrected 20/200 vision 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

OrcusVaruna said:


> Ya that’s why I’d never want a player forcing adjustments on the image as well. HDR looks great with the settings we have going now. I must say I really like your current gamma and cms values. You have a lot more patience then I do as I get VERY frustrated with the epson and struggle to adjust the cms while getting the gamma to track right. I seem to do much better when I take a someone else’s gamma tweak it a bit for my screen and use the cms for the majority of the calibration. It’s still not perfect but more then acceptable for my coke bottle corrected 20/200 vision
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That gamma was the biggest pain, took hrs lol

You mess with offsets it effects gamma, then you mess with CMS it effects gamma ect

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

I feel like my eyes are broken and you guys are superior beings. I hooked up my Sony X800 UHD BluRay to my 5040UBe with its stock settings and I feel like it’s gorgeous. I wish I could have super hero vision. 😜


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

Some renders of my new home theater for my 5040UBe. The side channel speakers are electronically controlled and retract into the ceiling. Everything is pretty much done except the Arcade machine is still being built. I’ll have real pics of the finished project once it arrives and I finished installed the wood floors.


----------



## Scott27

MAYAmanIGN said:


> Some renders of my new home theater for my 5040UBe. The side channel speakers are electronically controlled and retract into the ceiling. Everything is pretty much done except the Arcade machine is still being built. I’ll have real pics of the finished project once it arrives and I finished installed the wood floors.


Looks very nice. Are you going to put some sort of acoustic treatments in, a wooden floor and untreated ceiling/walls could be a pretty reflective environment!


----------



## robc1976

Evan201 said:


> Super white on in "auto" will definitely smoosh those highlights down to a nice visible level. Bat cave is beneficial. What screen?


Stewart filmscreen cima nueve

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

Scott27 said:


> Looks very nice. Are you going to put some sort of acoustic treatments in, a wooden floor and untreated ceiling/walls could be a pretty reflective environment!



The walls aren’t bare, all the walls are covered in panels. The throw rug is substantially larger than the one in the rendering. I’ve done some testing and it sounds great, no echo. The hardwood is already installed on the theater side, the other side near the 75” X900E gaming space is almost finished. Thanks for the comment.


----------



## Juboy

OrcusVaruna said:


> Here ya go!



Thank you for taking the time to do this, it's much appreciated.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Juboy said:


> Thank you for taking the time to do this, it's much appreciated.




Anytime, let me know what you think! Also I noticed this morning an error in hdr gamma point 7. It’s supposed to be 26 not 31


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## satyab

OrcusVaruna said:


> Here ya go!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just tried these settings out of curiosity. Wow HDR looked awesome. I have tested Netflix's Lost in Space, the landing scene on White Mountains in Ep1 @ 5Min mark really come to life. HDR is more defined compared to other two HDR settings I am using currently. Thanks for the efforts.


----------



## avtoronto

OrcusVaruna said:


> Anytime, let me know what you think! Also I noticed this morning an error in hdr gamma point 7. It’s supposed to be 26 not 31
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks, Orcus for posting. I will give them a try. As I'm not a calibrator and don't have any equipment, my understanding is brightness and contrast are very installation specific so we should set these ourselves using HDR test cards then apply the balance of your settings. Also, for "Strength/Range" in your HDR settings, you show "Preset 3". Should this be a different value? Thanks again.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> Thanks, Orcus for posting. I will give them a try. As I'm not a calibrator and don't have any equipment, my understanding is brightness and contrast are very installation specific so we should set these ourselves using HDR test cards then apply the balance of your settings. Also, for "Strength/Range" in your HDR settings, you show "Preset 3". Should this be a different value? Thanks again.




Preset 3 is thick and thin line of 4 and detail enhancement strength and range of 25 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

OrcusVaruna said:


> Preset 3 is thick and thin line of 4 and detail enhancement strength and range of 25
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for clarifying.


----------



## Juboy

OrcusVaruna said:


> Anytime, let me know what you think! Also I noticed this morning an error in hdr gamma point 7. It’s supposed to be 26 not 31


Ah, thanks, just updated that point setting.

The only changes I made to your settings on my PJ were to increase contrast by 2 and brightness by 1. As I've been ploughing through the first season of Ozark in 4K I watched two eps using your settings last night and was seriously impressed overall but especially with the outdoor lake scenes, the sunlight off the water ripples was jaw-droppingly realistic. 

I've now got my (very slightly) tweaked versions of your settings and Rob's previous settings as my go to HDR memory spaces. I find Rob's tend to look marginally better with more processed, effects heavy content and yours have the edge with more 'real life' content.

Either way, for the first time in a year I really feel like I'm now getting the potential out of the PJ and I'm finding myself wanting to watch it any chance I get - which is surely the aim of ALL of this. Thanks to both of you for your time and efforts.


----------



## rmilyard

I have been away from forum for sometime now. We moved and got my Epson 5040ub hang up. I would like to try calibrate it better for 4K HDR content. It’s very dim. I know sometime back people had PDF docs to try out some settings. Can someone point me to right place and people are using now?


----------



## Evan201

rmilyard said:


> I have been away from forum for sometime now. We moved and got my Epson 5040ub hang up. I would like to try calibrate it better for 4K HDR content. It’s very dim. I know sometime back people had PDF docs to try out some settings. Can someone point me to right place and people are using now?


The new Panasonic UB820 UHD player is an amazing way to brighten up HDR. I leave the dynamic range on the epson in Auto (not auto-bright) and crank up the dynamic range slider on the Panny to +4 or +8 depending on the movie. The HDR optimizer keeps the highlights from clipping on the fly with the static HDR10. Its really the best I've seen the epson perform. Better than the Nvidia Shield TV HDR I'm getting from apps there. Way more HDR control and the optimizer is really slick. Best pairing you can put with the Epson in my opinion.


----------



## wrighj9

I have had the 5040 for about a year but have had it on a shelf rather than mounted. Bought a peerless mount this week and am going to mount it soon.

My question is: Should I mount it as close to the screen as possible (within the ideal range) in order to get a brighter picture or does it not matter? 

I currently have it about 14-15 feet away from a 108 inch screen and it has been just fine but if mounting it closer would produce a better and brighter picture I am happy to do that. 

Since it has a listed throw range of 10'7 - 22'4 I just wanted to mount it as ideal as possible.

Thanks!


----------



## JewDaddy

Stupid question but is there anyway I would be able to fix a dust blob myself? Played some Xbox One X on my projector this afternoon and noticed one small dust blob on the screen. I’ve had one before so I know for sure that’s what it is. Projector is not covered under warranty so I’m trying to come up with a way to possibly get it fixed myself. There’s an official Epson repair center about 30 miles away from my house but it’s going to cost probably $250-$300 to fix. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

wrighj9 said:


> I have had the 5040 for about a year but have had it on a shelf rather than mounted. Bought a peerless mount this week and am going to mount it soon.
> 
> My question is: Should I mount it as close to the screen as possible (within the ideal range) in order to get a brighter picture or does it not matter?
> 
> I currently have it about 14-15 feet away from a 108 inch screen and it has been just fine but if mounting it closer would produce a better and brighter picture I am happy to do that.
> 
> Since it has a listed throw range of 10'7 - 22'4 I just wanted to mount it as ideal as possible.
> 
> Thanks!



If you want BRIGHT...and you can place the PJ's Lens Face at 11', then you will get more brightness than you can imagine. 70 fl @ 1.0 gain. 



So running on Low Lamp and Video Optimized, you'll still have enough brightness to Xerox an 108" HDR image


----------



## Tesla1856

MississippiMan said:


> If you want BRIGHT...and you can place the PJ's Lens Face at 11', then you will get more brightness than you can imagine. 70 fl @ 1.0 gain.
> 
> So running on Low Lamp and Video Optimized, you'll still have enough brightness to Xerox an 108" HDR image


Hey MM, how's it going?

So, are you still liking Epson-3LCD technology? What is your current pick for a projector around $2000 ?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Evan201 said:


> The new Panasonic UB820 UHD player is an amazing way to brighten up HDR. I leave the dynamic range on the epson in Auto (not auto-bright) and crank up the dynamic range slider on the Panny to +4 or +8 depending on the movie. The HDR optimizer keeps the highlights from clipping on the fly with the static HDR10. Its really the best I've seen the epson perform. Better than the Nvidia Shield TV HDR I'm getting from apps there. Way more HDR control and the optimizer is really slick. Best pairing you can put with the Epson in my opinion.




Does the ub820 automatically switch between different dynamic range settings depending on if he movie was mastered at 1000 or 4000 nits? I hate when I play wb or paramount discs and have to drop the contrast way down so it doesn’t clip and if this player can rectify that issue I might have to get it at some point 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

Tesla1856 said:


> Hey MM, how's it going?
















> So, are you still liking Epson-3LCD technology? What is your current pick for a projector around $2000 ?


Up until late mid-2015, my love affair with that overly bright PJ was still a'lit. I put a bunch in and for some really huge screens, and really never had a single regret.


However after dropping off their radar for a 2 year hiatus due to quality control issues, I was reinstated as a Legacy JVC Pro Dealer (...I date back to 2003...) and that corresponded with the coming out of the x550r. What with my pricing, and the LyCos technology w/realNative Contrast specs that delight, I haven't installed a single other type of 4K E-Shift PJ since.

Of...a couple Eppy 3700s went up, but that's it.

I'm still making judgements on the Native 4K DLPs in the price range you mentioned. Most I find wanting....but the UHD65 has the lead for a dedicated Theater, and the UHD60 for ambient light installations.

Yeah....me, sayin' nice things about DLPs. Near apocalyptic in nature that.....


----------



## OrcusVaruna

OrcusVaruna said:


> Here ya go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




So I have spent hours trying to calibrate hdr gamma on this projector and have come up with something entirely of my own I like a little. If you want to try these new gamma settings set gamma to 0,15,24,29,32,31,32,9 along with the following changes to contrast, brightness and color saturation. I didn’t bother recalibrating the cms as they weren’t effected enough to notice. With this gamma your really able to close down the iris as well. Currently running it at -14. Let me know what you all think.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rmilyard

*Epson 5040ub and Shield TV*

Guys I am needing some help. I have my Epson 5040ub with firmware 1.11. I am using new version Shield TV and running Plex server on my unraid server. I have a lot of 4K content on my Plex server to play. I also can't seem to get HDR content to play via Shield TV app Netflix or Amazon.


On the Shield I have it set for 4K 60hz


On Epson under Signal/Advance I have:

HDMI Video Range = AUTO

Color Space = AUTO

Dynamic Range = AUTO (Bright)


Then using Dynamic setting for image


What might I be missing? What settings you guys using?


----------



## Tesla1856

MississippiMan said:


> Up until late mid-2015, my love affair with that overly bright PJ was still a'lit. I put a bunch in and for some really huge screens, and really never had a single regret.
> 
> 
> However after dropping off their radar for a 2 year hiatus due to quality control issues, I was reinstated as a Legacy JVC Pro Dealer (...I date back to 2003...) and that corresponded with the coming out of the x550r. What with my pricing, and the LyCos technology w/realNative Contrast specs that delight, I haven't installed a single other type of 4K E-Shift PJ since.
> 
> Of...a couple Eppy 3700s went up, but that's it.
> 
> I'm still making judgements on the Native 4K DLPs in the price range you mentioned. Most I find wanting....but the UHD65 has the lead for a dedicated Theater, and the UHD60 for ambient light installations.
> 
> Yeah....me, sayin' nice things about DLPs. Near apocalyptic in nature that.....


Good to hear you are still in the business.

Yes, I've noticed LCoS lately (JVC D-ILA and Sony SXRD) , but it would be hard for me to swing $4000. I'm not sure I'm that into projectors. Plus, I only have a multi-use-room to work with. 

I guess I'll stick with my Epson-8350 for now. While the Epson-3700 seems to be a more-current Epson equivalent to it, I think the Epson-4000 is worth the little extra.

No, I don't think I can warm-up to plain DLP. Yes, after reading your post, I got a little worried about the world's safety.  

Thanks for taking the time to respond. To this thread, I did not mean to take this thread off topic, but actually, I expected it to be just more 3-LCD talk.


----------



## gene4ht

MississippiMan said:


> ... I put a bunch in and for some really huge screens...


And hopefully still using Chief mounts?


----------



## Juboy

OrcusVaruna said:


> If you want to try these new gamma settings set gamma to 0,15,24,29,32,31,32,9



Just set up a new memory space for your new settings, went to enter the gamma range and it seems to be missing one point?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Juboy said:


> Just set up a new memory space for your new settings, went to enter the gamma range and it seems to be missing one point?



Oops good catch 0,15,20,24,29,32,31,32,9


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wrighj9

MississippiMan said:


> If you want BRIGHT...and you can place the PJ's Lens Face at 11', then you will get more brightness than you can imagine. 70 fl @ 1.0 gain.
> 
> 
> 
> So running on Low Lamp and Video Optimized, you'll still have enough brightness to Xerox an 108" HDR image


Please excuse my ignorance as I am just now learning about this stuff. What exactly does 70 fl @ 1.0 gain mean? 

Will the picture be any better/clearer at 11 feet as well rather than 14 feet due to smaller pixels or anything like that or is that really all determined by zoom anyhow?

One last thing, the mount I got sits pretty flush with the ceiling. Projector lens will be maybe a foot above the top of the screen. Will that be just fine (with all the adjustments the 5040 can make anyhow) or would I be better served buying an extension rod as well?

Thanks again!


----------



## Mr.G

rmilyard said:


> Guys I am needing some help. I have my Epson 5040ub with firmware 1.11. I am using new version Shield TV and running Plex server on my unraid server. I have a lot of 4K content on my Plex server to play. I also can't seem to get HDR content to play via Shield TV app Netflix or Amazon.
> 
> On the Shield I have it set for 4K 60hz
> 
> On Epson under Signal/Advance I have:
> 
> HDMI Video Range = AUTO
> 
> Color Space = AUTO
> 
> Dynamic Range = AUTO (Bright)
> 
> Then using Dynamic setting for image
> 
> What might I be missing? What settings you guys using?


Compatibility chart.


----------



## Evan201

OrcusVaruna said:


> Does the ub820 automatically switch between different dynamic range settings depending on if he movie was mastered at 1000 or 4000 nits? I hate when I play wb or paramount discs and have to drop the contrast way down so it doesn’t clip and if this player can rectify that issue I might have to get it at some point
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You can save the multiple HDR configurations and switch easily between them. For me just using the range slider +4 or +8 does this. Ive been sticking with +8 for most stuff though. The HDR optimizer keeps clipping at bay when its on. You would like it.


----------



## Evan201

rmilyard said:


> Guys I am needing some help. I have my Epson 5040ub with firmware 1.11. I am using new version Shield TV and running Plex server on my unraid server. I have a lot of 4K content on my Plex server to play. I also can't seem to get HDR content to play via Shield TV app Netflix or Amazon.
> 
> 
> On the Shield I have it set for 4K 60hz
> 
> 
> On Epson under Signal/Advance I have:
> 
> HDMI Video Range = AUTO
> 
> Color Space = AUTO
> 
> Dynamic Range = AUTO (Bright)
> 
> 
> Then using Dynamic setting for image
> 
> 
> What might I be missing? What settings you guys using?


I use 1080p 60hz 12 Bit BT2020 4:2:2 and HDR on netflix works most of the time. With the shield you have to play around with the HDMI signal a bit to get HDR going. I don't use 4k 60 with the Epson 5040 because it only would allow 8bit 4:2:0 at that point. Sometimes a reset is required after changing the HDMI settings to get the apps to recognize the change made. Netflix required this a bunch in the beginning. May have been fixed now, but I know Netflix requires 60hz for most HDR stuff to work. Vudu I use 24hz and Amazon as well.


----------



## Juiced46

So after almost having this projector for exactly 1 year to the date. My power supply died tonight  The unit will not power up at all, no lights nothing. Only have about 500 hours on the unit. I am not terribly upset because I know when I call tomorrow Epson will have me a new unit by Tues/Wed. I am most upset about ALL of my settings I have spent hours on are going to be GONE! My fault since I should have wrote them down. I am hoping I took pictures of them with my phone, if not it is going to be a long road to dial the projector in to how I liked it.


----------



## roland6465

Juiced46 said:


> So after almost having this projector for exactly 1 year to the date. My power supply died tonight  The unit will not power up at all, no lights nothing. Only have about 500 hours on the unit. I am not terribly upset because I know when I call tomorrow *Epson will have me a new unit by Tues/Wed.* I am most upset about ALL of my settings I have spent hours on are going to be GONE! My fault since I should have wrote them down. I am hoping I took pictures of them with my phone, if not it is going to be a long road to dial the projector in to how I liked it.


Good luck with that. Epson will send you a refurb that will either have a major defect out of the box, or die on you later. If you're persistent, you can get them to send you a new one by Halloween, but only after going through several refurbs.

As I said, good luck!


----------



## BMcQueen

4k enhancement is greyed out. What can i do to fix this. Using sony ubp-x800 with blu ray.


----------



## roland6465

BMcQueen said:


> 4k enhancement is greyed out. What can i do to fix this. Using sony ubp-x800 with blu ray.


You may have the player set to output all discs @ 4K. Enhancement on the 5040 is only available with a 1080p signal or less.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

BMcQueen said:


> 4k enhancement is greyed out. What can i do to fix this. Using sony ubp-x800 with blu ray.




4K enhancement is automatically applied to native 4K sources. For upscaling of 1080p material you can manually engage 4K enhancement but I personally suggest doing the upscale to 4K on your player for 1080p material or outputting the native 1080p and leaving 4K enhancement off as epsons scaler is atrocious. Great at reproducing a native 4K signal terrible at upscaling. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

wrighj9 said:


> Please excuse my ignorance as I am just now learning about this stuff. What exactly does 70 fl @ 1.0 gain mean?


It means "Blast your Eyeballs" bright. 

"Fl" (Foot Lambert) is the amount of reflected light off the surface of a Screen. The long held standard for "Fl" (Foot Lambert) in a dark room, light controlled setting is 16 fl. off a 1.0 gain screen. (...a 1.0 Gain is usually described as being a "Unity Gain White"....) Those with ambient light issues often employ a Gray screen with less than 1.0 gain ( 0.9 down to 0.5) if they have the lumen output (...and you do...) to drive into it. 

Usually, anything over 30 fl would be considered "too bright" unless mitigating circumstances dictate otherwise, such as screen size, the presence of moderate to high ambient light, or a longer Throw distance. Combine all of those and considerable Lumen output AND Screen gain are usually needed to offset the resulting loss brightness and clarity/contrast.

Things have changed though....because the advent of HDR (...at least the current versions...) has resulted in much the same issue that 3D viewing has always brought into the viewing equation....a significant loss of brightness. On the 5040ub this is of a particular issue, so losing any additional brightness due to screen size of a lower gain surface can result in a dimmer than desirable image.

But there you are, with a picayune () 108" screen, and a 5040ub. A recipe for having what amounts to being a 108" LED Monitor. 

Candidly speaking, your exempt from most performance related light degradation issues. Even at 14' throw (...midpoint for a 108" screen with the 5040ub...) you'd get 58 fl and at the maximum Throw of 22.4' your still way up there with 48 fl.

While even the lowest of all those figures mean you'd have a extremely bright image, they are figures that represent running the PJ on "Normal Lamp Mode" a setting that delivers maximum output from a Lamp. Low Lamp "Eco-Mode"...is something that preserves Lamp life, reduces Lamp outputted brightness (Lumen) by approx 25%>, and when light output drops, usually Blacks get "blacker". At worst in your case, at 14' throw and in Eco Mode you'd still get 43.5 fl. Absolutely more than enough to deliver a sterling, optimum calibrated HDR image as well as vibrant 3D.



> Will the picture be any better/clearer at 11 feet as well rather than 14 feet due to smaller pixels or anything like that or is that really all determined by zoom anyhow?


Having had the 5040ub for a year on, I could not help but initially think this is "Preachin' to the Choir"  

But........I know it happens, people grab up a popular Projector and Screen on impulse (...I love that F.Projection is becoming a "impulse buy"...) and then start asking questions.

OK. In layman'esque language.

Zooming any image will always increase (widen) the spacing between the image's pixel structure. Just like blowing up a Photograph can make the picture look fuzzy....a projected image loses sharpness at maximum zoom.

However.....how bad or significant a difference it amounts to being is dependent upon two factors. The Image's native resolution, and how much it is expanded by zooming. I won't crunch a lot of numbers here...just suffice it to say that a 108" image at any projected focal length is going to look sharper than a 180" image. If the Native resolution of the Image starting out is 1080p, and is then E-Shifted up to suedo-4K, the 180"er is gonna still look really good...but the 108"er will look absolutely painted on the screen. And bear in mind, if loss of Lumen output due to a longer Throw distance is removed from the equation because of a wealth of initial Lumen, an image projected at minimum zoom (maximum distance) will look the sharpest because no expansion of the pixels is present save that of what occurs from the "natural" expansion of pixels due to distance.

Of course there are extremes and exceptions, but that is why most Projection Calculators always show you a "Mid-Point" throw. Something that represents "50% average" as far as the relationship between Lumen output and Foot Lambert of reflected brightness for a Screen's given Gain goes. 

So what does all the above gobblety-**** mean for you? Basically....you can mount the PJ anywhere you want....even at the back of the room. Really, the only critical choice to consider is as to where it can mount and still be reached with a 25' span of Certified 4K HDMI. Otherwise, the need of any longer such Certified HDMI cord will significantly escalate the price of said cordage.



> One last thing, the mount I got sits pretty flush with the ceiling.


Stop right there! What mount did you get? I ask because the 5040ub is a beastly big Girl, and the only mounting holes for inverted mounting are the ones left by removing the Feet. And those feet are all the way out at each corner. Strength and rigidity are critical needs for mounting the 5040ub. Oh....to be sure there are some mounts that will get you up in the air alright....but not nearly as well and secure as others. And NONE like the RPA-181 by Chief. So...what'cha got?



> Projector lens will be maybe a foot above the top of the screen. Will that be just fine (with all the adjustments the 5040 can make anyhow) or would I be better served buying an extension rod as well?
> 
> Thanks again!


If you can place the PJ so that the Lens is 12" down from the Ceiling, you'll do just fine as long at you don't have 12'+ ceilings.


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys. So now I’m second guessing if what’s wrong is in fact a dust blob. Please see my attached pictures. There’s a blue spec showing up on the screen only when it’s dark. I called a projector repair place and the person told me that if it’s a dust blob it would show up magenta not blue. They said it’s possibly my optical engine going bad.... Sounds fishy to me. I’ve seen this before and I’m pretty sure it was blue. Plus, doesn’t it matter where the spec of dust is? If it’s on the blue panel then it shows up blue. Let me know what you guys think. 




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juboy

OrcusVaruna said:


> Oops good catch 0,15,20,24,29,32,31,32,9



Have now dialed this in. No time to watch right now but am due to complete Ozark S1 with the final two eps this evening. It's probably not the best content to test settings with as it seems to have a rather stylised colour palette (washed out but heavy on blue and green) but hopefully I can do some comparisons between the settings once I've watched the two eps.


----------



## ccotenj

OrcusVaruna said:


> 4K enhancement is automatically applied to native 4K sources. For upscaling of 1080p material you can manually engage 4K enhancement but I personally suggest doing the upscale to 4K on your player for 1080p material or outputting the native 1080p and leaving 4K enhancement off as *epsons scaler is atrocious*. Great at reproducing a native 4K signal terrible at upscaling.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



truth.


----------



## jordanfff

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I have spent hours trying to calibrate hdr gamma on this projector and have come up with something entirely of my own I like a little. If you want to try these new gamma settings set gamma to 0,15,24,29,32,31,32,9 along with the following changes to contrast, brightness and color saturation. I didn’t bother recalibrating the cms as they weren’t effected enough to notice. With this gamma your really able to close down the iris as well. Currently running it at -14. Let me know what you all think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi ,so what cms are you using with this gamma.The one's from your previous HDR settings posted or the one's loaded out of the box.Your previous hdr settings look fantastic.Thanks


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jordanfff said:


> Hi ,so what cms are you using with this gamma.The one's from your previous HDR settings posted or the one's loaded out of the box.Your previous hdr settings look fantastic.Thanks



I’m using the cms and color temp settings from my previous calibration. Yes the new gamma changed the accuracy of the color a touch but not enough for me to warrant a recalibration once I boosted color saturation to 64. Yellow is especially close so I don’t really think you would be able to tell anyway as we don’t see minor variations in the other colors nearly as readily as we see differences in yellow. 













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

MAYAmanIGN said:


> Some renders of my new home theater for my 5040UBe. The side channel speakers are electronically controlled and retract into the ceiling. Everything is pretty much done except the Arcade machine is still being built. I’ll have real pics of the finished project once it arrives and I finished installed the wood floors.


Looks great, you will for sure need panels on celing in 1st reflection points as well as diffusion on rear 1/3 corners. May have to expand out depending on placement of surrounds, fronts.

Also get bass traps, I prefer tri-traps by GIK

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

roland6465 said:


> Good luck with that. Epson will send you a refurb that will either have a major defect out of the box, or die on you later. If you're persistent, you can get them to send you a new one by Halloween, but only after going through several refurbs.
> 
> As I said, good luck!


Yea, I know the drill lol. I have had multiple different model Epson projectors that I had warranty service with. Luckily, those replacements I never had an issue with. I am aware that there were a handful of users (maybe you?) I forget who, who had replacements with defects. I remember one user had maybe 7 or 8 replacements then got a new one. However that is not the case for everybody. Its under warranty so I am not too worried, if a refurb is bad, they can keep sending me more until they get it right. Yes its a huge hassle but it could be worse, other manufactures do not offer next day replacements and you have to wait weeks to months. Refurb will be here Tues or Wed so we will see how it goes and go from there. I tried to get them to send a new one but they would not budge.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Juiced46 said:


> Yea, I know the drill lol. I have had multiple different model Epson projectors that I had warranty service with. Luckily, those replacements I never had an issue with. I am aware that there were a handful of users (maybe you?) I forget who, who had replacements with defects. I remember one user had maybe 7 or 8 replacements then got a new one. However that is not the case for everybody. Its under warranty so I am not too worried, if a refurb is bad, they can keep sending me more until they get it right. Yes its a huge hassle but it could be worse, other manufactures do not offer next day replacements and you have to wait weeks to months. Refurb will be here Tues or Wed so we will see how it goes and go from there. I tried to get them to send a new one but they would not budge.


Has anyone with a power supply failure sent their unit in for repair vs playing refurb roulette? Seems like a good way to not get one with problems like convergence and should be able to keep your settings I would think.


----------



## Juiced46

WynsWrld98 said:


> Has anyone with a power supply failure sent their unit in for repair vs playing refurb roulette? Seems like a good way to not get one with problems like convergence and should be able to keep your settings I would think.


They offered me to send it in for repair and it would take about a week. I opted for the refurb.....

I spoke with Courtney and he seems to be the one that replies and speaks with alot of people who have had issues. I asked about the settings. He said with the power supply failure, you will not be able to retrieve settings even if it was sent in for repair. He said the main motherboard gets replaced and everything is lost.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Juiced46 said:


> Yea, I know the drill lol. I have had multiple different model Epson projectors that I had warranty service with. Luckily, those replacements I never had an issue with. I am aware that there were a handful of users (maybe you?) I forget who, who had replacements with defects. I remember one user had maybe 7 or 8 replacements then got a new one. However that is not the case for everybody. Its under warranty so I am not too worried, if a refurb is bad, they can keep sending me more until they get it right. Yes its a huge hassle but it could be worse, other manufactures do not offer next day replacements and you have to wait weeks to months. Refurb will be here Tues or Wed so we will see how it goes and go from there. I tried to get them to send a new one but they would not budge.




It seems like at first epson has no idea what was going on and was sending refurbs with defective power supplies for months. Once they highlighted the issue and began fixing the power supplies around the end of March beginning of April I think there have been far fewer issues. I went through 3 from nov 2017 thru March 2018 and my last one (#4 total) has not had any issues. Will see if this holds but my previous ones were long dead by this point. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hayabusa03

Juiced46 said:


> Yea, I know the drill lol. I have had multiple different model Epson projectors that I had warranty service with. Luckily, those replacements I never had an issue with. I am aware that there were a handful of users (maybe you?) I forget who, who had replacements with defects. I remember one user had maybe 7 or 8 replacements then got a new one. However that is not the case for everybody. Its under warranty so I am not too worried, if a refurb is bad, they can keep sending me more until they get it right. Yes its a huge hassle but it could be worse, other manufactures do not offer next day replacements and you have to wait weeks to months. Refurb will be here Tues or Wed so we will see how it goes and go from there. I tried to get them to send a new one but they would not budge.


Just want to share my conversation this am with a representative who will remain nameless from the Advanced Product Support team, the group responsible for projector exchanges, repairs, etc. He advised sending my unit for repair directly to Epson because a repair center would simply forward it to them anyway thereby saving me turn around. I asked him whether the power supply would be swapped out with a new and improved power supply or the same type of unit? He assured me that the repair would take care of it for me. And advised that they are not in the business of losing money on returned units and antagonizing customers by not dealing with this problem. I asked him if there was a known power supply issue and he said that he was not at liberty to say, but referred my question to Management. I asked him about the power supply issues complaints on the internet and he pooh poohed the forums and blogs suggesting overblown reactions to typical quality issues since "they sell 10's of thousands of the 5040 UB and that Epson has a 5% return rate for a variety of quality issues, including power supplies, lamps, auto iris etc". Finally, I asked him if there are plans for an actual 4K projector and he said that there are plans but doesn't know when it will appear on the website. So, there you have it folks, straight from the horse's mouth. If I hear back from Management I'll share that with you as well.


----------



## Juiced46

OrcusVaruna said:


> It seems like at first epson has no idea what was going on and was sending refurbs with defective power supplies for months. Once they highlighted the issue and began fixing the power supplies around the end of March beginning of April I think there have been far fewer issues. I went through 3 from nov 2017 thru March 2018 and my last one (#4 total) has not had any issues. Will see if this holds but my previous ones were long dead by this point.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Well that is kind of good news. How many hours in between failures? And all of your failures were power supplies correct?

Courtney knew exactly what the problem was. He was very well aware and did not hesitate to send another once I told him my issue. The question is, are they slapping the same defective power supplies in them or did they improve them? Hopefully for Epsons sake, they improved them. Because if you cannot have a power supply, electrical product in a $2500-$3000 unit last 6 months or so, I am guessing an issue will eventually arise legally if enough people continue to have problems after the 2 yr period (with multiple warranty replacements) being it is a KNOWN issue.


----------



## Juiced46

Hayabusa03 said:


> Just want to share my conversation this am with a representative who will remain nameless from the Advanced Product Support team, the group responsible for projector exchanges, repairs, etc. He advised sending my unit for repair directly to Epson because a repair center would simply forward it to them anyway thereby saving me turn around. I asked him whether the power supply would be swapped out with a new and improved power supply or the same type of unit? He assured me that the repair would take care of it for me. And advised that they are not in the business of losing money on returned units and antagonizing customers by not dealing with this problem. I asked him if there was a known power supply issue and he said that he was not at liberty to say, but referred my question to Management. I asked him about the power supply issues complaints on the internet and he pooh poohed the forums and blogs suggesting overblown reactions to typical quality issues since "they sell 10's of thousands of the 5040 UB and that Epson has a 5% return rate for a variety of quality issues, including power supplies, lamps, auto iris etc". Finally, I asked him if there are plans for an actual 4K projector and he said that there are plans but doesn't know when it will appear on the website. So, there you have it folks, straight from the horse's mouth. If I hear back from Management I'll share that with you as well.


All possibly very true and hopefully true. But sometimes people just tell you what you want to "hear". I hope they improved it. But you are right, I do not think Epson is out to rip people off. The manufacturer or the power supply which is most likely not Epson is probably the bigger issue they need to deal with. I am on my 4th Epson Projector purchase over the years of upgrading. They have always handled my warranty concerns well. Even though I have had issues, I will keep buying their products because I feel their customer service is extremely good and much better then competitors. I work for a high end German auto manufacturer. Although we have many issues on expensive cars, even when they are newer, they always take care of it, especially if its a widely known issue. I hope Epson would do the same.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Juiced46 said:


> All possibly very true and hopefully true. But sometimes people just tell you what you want to "hear". I hope they improved it. But you are right, I do not think Epson is out to rip people off. The manufacturer or the power supply which is most likely not Epson is probably the bigger issue they need to deal with. I am on my 4th Epson Projector purchase over the years of upgrading. They have always handled my warranty concerns well. Even though I have had issues, I will keep buying their products because I feel their customer service is extremely good and much better then competitors. I work for a high end German auto manufacturer. Although we have many issues on expensive cars, even when they are newer, they always take care of it, especially if its a widely known issue. I hope Epson would do the same.




I have raised bleeping hell with epson over this since my $3000 toy died 3 times in less than 6 months for the same exact issue. I was absolutely livid, so being a 5’7” New York Italian with a Napoleon complex I screamed and yelled at everyone that would listen until I was finally called back by a product engineer with Epson America. You can search for my earlier posts in this thread for more details but the gist is he stated they had finally identified the issue as defective capacitors in the power supply and they are now using more robust ones since about March of this year. My most recent refurb (that I was guaranteed had these new capacitors) has been running without a hitch since. So until that is no longer the case I am inclined to believe him as this one has lasted longer than the previous 3 combined lol. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hayabusa03

OrcusVaruna said:


> I have raised bleeping hell with epson over this since my $3000 toy died 3 times in less than 6 months for the same exact issue. I was absolutely livid, so being a 5’7” New York Italian with a Napoleon complex I screamed and yelled at everyone that would listen until I was finally called back by a product engineer with Epson America. You can search for my earlier posts in this thread for more details but the gist is he stated they had finally identified the issue as defective capacitors in the power supply and they are now using more robust ones since about March of this year. My most recent refurb (that I was guaranteed had these new capacitors) has been running without a hitch since. So until that is no longer the case I am inclined to believe him as this one has lasted longer than the previous 3 combined lol.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's great news, I was researching on the Internet and the likeliest reason for a power supply failures are the capacitors. Hopefully, this is the beginning of the end of this issue.


----------



## jimmyk36

Azekecse said:


> Hello DEN7ER,
> 
> I dropped a PDF file with the settings, not sure if this is the latest, just remember these are primarily baseline settings. You will need to customize according to your environment, i.e. screen, lighting, etc..
> 
> Hope this helps and Congratulations, I really enjoy my 6040UB projector. I watch it almost everyday.
> 
> I wouldn't concern myself with the power supply issue, I think the majority of Epson 5040/6040 owners are fine, they just don't post until something happens. Just Enjoy!!!
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke



On page 2 of the attachment, under the first and second columns for "Dave Harper Digital Cinema 'Harpervision'" and "Dave Harper Bright Cinema" there aren't any settings under "sharpness" through "Image Enhancement" were these left out or are they set to defaults???


----------



## WynsWrld98

OrcusVaruna said:


> I have raised bleeping hell with epson over this since my $3000 toy died 3 times in less than 6 months for the same exact issue. I was absolutely livid, so being a 5’7” New York Italian with a Napoleon complex I screamed and yelled at everyone that would listen until I was finally called back by a product engineer with Epson America. You can search for my earlier posts in this thread for more details but the gist is he stated they had finally identified the issue as defective capacitors in the power supply and they are now using more robust ones since about March of this year. My most recent refurb (that I was guaranteed had these new capacitors) has been running without a hitch since. So until that is no longer the case I am inclined to believe him as this one has lasted longer than the previous 3 combined lol.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Someone above stated if a projector is sent in for repair vs refurb roulette for the power supply problem that they replace the motherboard. I'm not sure how the motherboard and power supply are related but I think in terms of a computer where the power supply is separate from the motherboard, is this not the case with projectors? Or when people talk about "power supply issue" are there really more problems other than the power supply itself meaning things on motherboard as well??


----------



## matthew_eeph

Just to add to the power supply woes, purchased a 5040UB at the beginning of November 2017, by the 22nd it had died with a power supply failure. Refurb unit arrived December 1st, and the refurb just died with the same power supply failure today. Waiting to hear back from support on next steps. Definitely a big downer when the family gets all set up with popcorn in the home theater and the projector won't start.


----------



## gene4ht

OrcusVaruna said:


> ...he stated they had finally identified the issue as *defective capacitors in the power supply* and they are now using more robust ones since about March of this year. My most recent refurb (that I was guaranteed had these new capacitors) has been running without a hitch since. So until that is no longer the case I am inclined to believe him as this one has lasted longer than the previous 3 combined lol.





Hayabusa03 said:


> That's great news, I was researching on the Internet and the *likeliest reason for a power supply failures are the capacitors*. Hopefully, this is the beginning of the end of this issue.



This has been the same explanation provided by advanced support to several members, including myself, who contacted Epson multiple times earlier this year. What is disturbing is (1) Epson's inability or unwillingness to identify those units impacted by serial number and (2) why approximately 2/3's of the units in the field have not experienced failures. There appears to be no relationship between those that fail and those that have not based on build date, length of ownership, lamp hours, etc. If indeed, failures are attributed to a defective component, a manufacturer is certainly able to readily identify the component as well as the projector containing it and provide notification to dealers and consumers to initiate proactive measures. The real issue here lies directly with Epson's leadership in not being transparent and taking ownership and responsibility. It's CYA...a corporation protecting its image, revenue stream, and jobs. It seems the strategy then, if indeed the true source of the power supply failures have been identified and remedied, is to let the issue slowly and silently go away. Time will tell!


----------



## Hayabusa03

gene4ht said:


> This has been the same explanation provided by advanced support to several members, including myself, who contacted Epson multiple times earlier this year. What is disturbing is (1) Epson's inability or unwillingness to identify those units impacted by serial number and (2) why approximately 2/3's of the units in the field have not experienced failures. There appears to be no relationship between those that fail and those that have not based on length of ownership, lamp hours, etc. If indeed, failures are attributed to a defective component, a manufacturer is certainly able to readily identify the component as well as the projector containing it and provide notification to dealers and consumers to initiate proactive measures. The real issue here lies directly with Epson's leadership in not being transparent and taking ownership and responsibility. It's CYA...a corporation protecting its image, revenue stream, and jobs. It seems the strategy then, if indeed the true source of the power supply failures have been identified and remedied, is to let the issue slowly and silently go away. Time will tell!


Frankly, this is all very confusing, smoke and mirrors. Regardless, I will keep returning my unit if it continues failing or until I move onto something else.


----------



## roland6465

Juiced46 said:


> They offered me to send it in for repair and it would take about a week. I opted for the refurb.....
> 
> I spoke with Courtney and he seems to be the one that replies and speaks with alot of people who have had issues. I asked about the settings. He said with the power supply failure, you will not be able to retrieve settings even if it was sent in for repair. He said the main motherboard gets replaced and everything is lost.


Yes, Courtney is the man! He's the one who finally got me a new replacement after the first two refurbs were crap. I'm pretty sure he is the most knowledgable one in the whole Epson CSR maze.


----------



## roland6465

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. So now I’m second guessing if what’s wrong is in fact a dust blob. Please see my attached pictures. There’s a blue spec showing up on the screen only when it’s dark. I called a projector repair place and the person told me that if it’s a dust blob it would show up magenta not blue. They said it’s possibly my optical engine going bad.... Sounds fishy to me. I’ve seen this before and I’m pretty sure it was blue. Plus, doesn’t it matter where the spec of dust is? If it’s on the blue panel then it shows up blue. Let me know what you guys think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, that's optical engine. My 4030 developed two of those blue spots. Since it was 40 days past warranty, I drove it 100 miles to the nearest authorized service center (thanks, Epson!), thinking it was dust. They took it apart, and after two cleanings without success, they dug deeper and found heat damage to the blue panel. Since the panels aren't individually replaceable, they quoted $1500 plus labor to replace the whole engine. I said no thanks, and "upgraded" to a 6040.


----------



## JewDaddy

roland6465 said:


> Yeah, that's optical engine. My 4030 developed two of those blue spots. Since it was 40 days past warranty, I drove it 100 miles to the nearest authorized service center (thanks, Epson!), thinking it was dust. They took it apart, and after two cleanings without success, they dug deeper and found heat damage to the blue panel. Since the panels aren't individually replaceable, they quoted $1500 plus labor to replace the whole engine. I said no thanks, and "upgraded" to a 6040.




Holy crap. So my 5040 is pretty much toast now????? This is terrible news. I thought for sure it was just a dust blob. I’m not saying you’re wrong (although I hope so for my sake) but I saw a video online of a 5030 with a dust blob and it was also blue. I’m also about 90% sure that the last time I had this issue in 2016 that the dust blobs were blue too. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

JewDaddy said:


> Holy crap. So my 5040 is pretty much toast now????? This is terrible news. I thought for sure it was just a dust blob. I’m not saying you’re wrong (although I hope so for my sake) but I saw a video online of a 5030 with a dust blob and it was also blue. I’m also about 90% sure that the last time I had this issue in 2016 that the dust blobs were blue too.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is it still under warranty? If so, call Epson support and tell them the issue and that you can send pictures. That should bump you up to a supervisor who will give you an address to email the pics, and verify the spots. Then they should start the exchange. 

Otherwise, you'll either have to eat the cost of an engine replacement, learn to ignore it, or find a buyer who doesn't mind the spot (I sold mine to a bar owner looking to add a projector) and use that towards another one.

Sorry.

eta- I see you're in GA. I'm currently listening to Lewis Grizzard albums and reminiscing about growing up ******* in NW GA.


----------



## JewDaddy

roland6465 said:


> Is it still under warranty? If so, call Epson support and tell them the issue and that you can send pictures. That should bump you up to a supervisor who will give you an address to email the pics, and verify the spots. Then they should start the exchange.
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, you'll either have to eat the cost of an engine replacement, learn to ignore it, or find a buyer who doesn't mind the spot (I sold mine to a bar owner looking to add a projector) and use that towards another one.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> eta- I see you're in GA. I'm currently listening to Lewis Grizzard albums and reminiscing about growing up ******* in NW GA.




Yeah unfortunately it’s not. How are you so sure that a dust blob doesn’t show up as a blue spot? Like I said earlier, I had a dust blob before and it showed up blue. Are dust blobs a specific color on the 5040? Also, this blue spot only shows up when it’s a pitch black screen. Doesn’t show up at all with any normal viewing content even if the content is dark. 

I’m still kinda new to the GA area. Only been here about six years now. I’m on okie from Muskogee if you’ve ever heard Merle Haggard sing it  



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

I was sure mine were dust blobs as well. I trust what the repair shop told me. The only way to know for sure is to take it to an authorized service shop and have them open it up.


----------



## theaterofpain

Are there two issues with these projectors or just the flat-out PS failing issue? I've only had the 5040 since Jan, but about three times now my fan spun up to warp speed and the projector stayed that way for 2-3 minutes before the fan slowed down and the picture came on. The PJ is connected to a UPS, so there have never been power cut outs. Is this behavior normal or indicative of the PS failing?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JewDaddy said:


> Yeah unfortunately it’s not. How are you so sure that a dust blob doesn’t show up as a blue spot? Like I said earlier, I had a dust blob before and it showed up blue. Are dust blobs a specific color on the 5040? Also, this blue spot only shows up when it’s a pitch black screen. Doesn’t show up at all with any normal viewing content even if the content is dark.
> 
> I’m still kinda new to the GA area. Only been here about six years now. I’m on okie from Muskogee if you’ve ever heard Merle Haggard sing it
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Dust blobs are very obvious optical aberrations with a chromatic lensing appearance. To see what I’m talking about place a dust particle on the lens of a camera. When it effects the whole image in a uniform way it’s likely the panel itself 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

theaterofpain said:


> Are there two issues with these projectors or just the flat-out PS failing issue? I've only had the 5040 since Jan, but about three times now my fan spun up to warp speed and the projector stayed that way for 2-3 minutes before the fan slowed down and the picture came on. The PJ is connected to a UPS, so there have never been power cut outs. Is this behavior normal or indicative of the PS failing?


Quite normal
there is no rhyme or reason as to why it behaves like this but its nothing to worry about


----------



## theaterofpain

Lesmor said:


> Quite normal
> there is no rhyme or reason as to why it behaves like this but its nothing to worry about


Thanks - I remember the messages from last year mentioning the fan boost and then having power supply issues. I'm glad it's just coincidental.


----------



## ccotenj

Lesmor said:


> Quite normal
> there is no rhyme or reason as to why it behaves like this but its nothing to worry about





theaterofpain said:


> Thanks - I remember the messages from last year mentioning the fan boost and then having power supply issues. I'm glad it's just coincidental.


yeah, mine has had that habit of doing that occsionally ever since i got it last october (edit: 2 octobers ago, senior moment there). i have about 2400 hours on it. 

something tells me it is likely some type of temperature sensor making it happen. but that is more a guess than anything else.


----------



## gene4ht

theaterofpain said:


> ...about three times now my fan spun up to warp speed and the projector stayed that way for 2-3 minutes before the fan slowed down and the picture came on.... Is this behavior normal or indicative of the PS failing?





Lesmor said:


> Quite normal
> there is no rhyme or reason as to why it behaves like this but its nothing to worry about


Lesmore is correct...my 5040 has exhibited this behavior intermittently for well over 18 mos. Epson support could not provide an explanation for this behavior but did confirm that it’s unrelated to the power supply failures.


----------



## gene4ht

ccotenj said:


> yeah, mine has had that habit of doing that occsionally ever since i got it last october (edit: 2 octobers ago, senior moment there). i have about 2400 hours on it.
> 
> something tells me it is likely some type of temperature sensor making it happen. but that is more a guess than anything else.


I would tend to agree that it’s related to the temp sensor in some way. It’s just odd that it would turn on at high speed during start up (cold lamp) rather than shut down (hot lamp)...illogical logic!


----------



## ccotenj

gene4ht said:


> I would tend to agree that it’s related to the temp sensor in some way. It’s just odd that it would turn on at high speed during start up (cold lamp) rather than shut down (hot lamp)...illogical logic!


indeed it is odd. i figure it’s getting a wrong reading every now and then which causes it to happen, but darned if i know what causes that wrong reading. 

random electrical gremlin. or a piece of dust. or some piece of code.


----------



## shasta

*Any news On the 5040 successor*

Hello everyone, I was wondering if there has been any update on if Epson is going to be replacing this model with a new one anytime soon? I have been researching an upgrade to my 5021 and keep coming back to the 5040, the only thing holding me back at this point is the idea that Epson may drop a new model to replace this one in 2019. I haven't read anything but as this model is pushing more than three years old, I thought it was a valid concern?


----------



## Dave in Green

shasta said:


> ... this model is pushing more than three years old ...


The 5040UB first shipped to dealers in August 2016, so it's exactly 2 years old this month and still a year away from pushing more than 3.


----------



## Juiced46

theaterofpain said:


> Are there two issues with these projectors or just the flat-out PS failing issue? I've only had the 5040 since Jan, but about three times now my fan spun up to warp speed and the projector stayed that way for 2-3 minutes before the fan slowed down and the picture came on. The PJ is connected to a UPS, so there have never been power cut outs. Is this behavior normal or indicative of the PS failing?


It is normal my 5040ub does it. My 5025 did it. My 8700 also did it. I have no idea why. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it does not. I am not sure if its temp related or what not. But my theater room stays pretty cool year round in the mid 60s. Its never hot in there and it still comes on from time to time.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Juiced46 said:


> It is normal my 5040ub does it. My 5025 did it. My 8700 also did it. I have no idea why. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it does not. I am not sure if its temp related or what not. But my theater room stays pretty cool year round in the mid 60s. Its never hot in there and it still comes on from time to time.


Both My 2040 and my 5040 do it in the same room. I had both Pj in the same room for while and the last time I fired the 5040 and it did that I also fired the 2040 and it did ! Maybe just a coincidence but every time it happened to me the temp was UNDER 70. My guess would be it cycles air to remove possible moisture (present at lower temps). Just a guess tho.


----------



## theaterofpain

shasta said:


> Hello everyone, I was wondering if there has been any update on if Epson is going to be replacing this model with a new one anytime soon? I have been researching an upgrade to my 5021 and keep coming back to the 5040, the only thing holding me back at this point is the idea that Epson may drop a new model to replace this one in 2019. I haven't read anything but as this model is pushing more than three years old, I thought it was a valid concern?


The Panasonic AE8000 was in production from 2012 with the last one shipping in Jan 2018 before it was discontinued. That was an anomaly, but still, the projector world ain't on the same level as flat screens where new tech comes out every 6 months. I am willing to bet that the next mass-market Epson won't come out until Fall 2019 with HDMI 2.1 and the true 4K pricepoint in the projector world comes down.


----------



## gene4ht

Juiced46 said:


> It is normal my 5040ub does it. My 5025 did it. My 8700 also did it. I have no idea why. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it does not. I am not sure if its temp related or what not. But my theater room stays pretty cool year round in the mid 60s. Its never hot in there and it still comes on from time to time.





The_Forth_Man said:


> Both My 2040 and my 5040 do it in the same room. I had both Pj in the same room for while and the last time I fired the 5040 and it did that I also fired the 2040 and it did ! Maybe just a coincidence but every time it happened to me the temp was UNDER 70. My guess would be it cycles air to remove possible moisture (present at lower temps). Just a guess tho.


Because this behavior has also been exhibited in past models, it would suggest that it was designed purposefully this way...but for what purpose? The fact that Epson’s support organization is unable to provide an explanation is curious and leaves it open to speculation. So, I’ll speculate once more and suggest that it is a design flaw/error that randomly and incorrectly places the PJ in a cooling logic state at start up, subsequently corrects itself, proved to have no negative effects, and thus never corrected!


----------



## gene4ht

theaterofpain said:


> The Panasonic AE8000 was in production from 2012 with the last one shipping in Jan 2018 before it was discontinued. That was an anomaly, but still, the projector world ain't on the same level as flat screens where new tech comes out every 6 months. I am willing to bet that the next mass-market Epson won't come out until Fall 2019 with HDMI 2.1 and the true 4K pricepoint in the projector world comes down.



I would have to agree. Replacement cycles for flat panels and projectors are vastly different. Demand, sales volumes, and therefore revenue streams would generally have the greatest impact on these cycles.


----------



## WynsWrld98

I read I thought in here somewhere rumor mill hot that a 5050/6050 coming soon with 18 GB HDMI chipset and frame interpolation in 4K. We should know for sure when CEDIA happens next month.


----------



## NetViper

WynsWrld98 said:


> I read I thought in here somewhere rumor mill hot that a 5050/6050 coming soon with 18 GB HDMI chipset and frame interpolation in 4K. We should know for sure when CEDIA happens next month.


Can’t wait to find out!


----------



## Juboy

Juboy said:


> Have now dialed this in. No time to watch right now but am due to complete Ozark S1 with the final two eps this evening. It's probably not the best content to test settings with as it seems to have a rather stylised colour palette (washed out but heavy on blue and green) but hopefully I can do some comparisons between the settings once I've watched the two eps.


Watched the final two hours of Ozark using the new Orcus settings and then did some back to back comparisons with Orcus' previous settings and Rob's final settings. Each of the settings have elements that I like and despite being very clearly different, I found it difficult to say which I definitively prefer. 


Having then watched some additional content (all 4K HDR but a mix of TV and film)), I think I've reaffirmed my previous thoughts that Rob's settings look best to me with CGI heavy, non-realistic content (sci-fi, fantasy and superhero type stuff) while Orcus' settings are preferable for more real-life based content. For brighter source material, I prefer Orcus' previous settings but with darker, gloomier or more washed out content I prefer the latest settings.

With the ability to save all 3 options so easily with the Epson, I can now pretty much guess before watching a show/film which of them is likely to work best and simply load the relevant setting from the memory options. I've never seen my PJ perform better and despite always having liked the image, I now absolutely love it. I used to always watch with a nagging feeling that my LG OLED would be seriously outperforming it but don't have that worry to nearly the same degree now. The trade off for the much larger image with these new settings is entirely worth it.

Thanks again for your efforts to all concerned, great job!


----------



## shasta

Dave in Green said:


> The 5040UB first shipped to dealers in August 2016, so it's exactly 2 years old this month and still a year away from pushing more than 3.



Thanks for the correction, but the question still stands if anyone has any insight on if Epson may be rolling out an updated model or replacement? I haven't been able to find anything that would suggest they are, but then again manufacturers probably aren't going to announce a new model 6 months in advance, thus killing sales on their existing ones. I could just see me purchasing the 5040 and then two months later Epson rolls out an updated model.


----------



## shasta

WynsWrld98 said:


> I read I thought in here somewhere rumor mill hot that a 5050/6050 coming soon with 18 GB HDMI chipset and frame interpolation in 4K. We should know for sure when CEDIA happens next month.





Thanks for the response, it seems like it makes sense to at least wait until the CEDIA and then make a decision. Going to be hard on me though, I've got the upgrade bug bad. :frown:


----------



## ccotenj

shasta said:


> Thanks for the correction, but the question still stands if anyone has any insight on if Epson may be rolling out an updated model or replacement? I haven't been able to find anything that would suggest they are, but then again manufacturers probably aren't going to announce a new model 6 months in advance, thus killing sales on their existing ones. I could just see me purchasing the 5040 and then two months later Epson rolls out an updated model.


there have been rumors.

thing is, hdmi 2.1 is right around the corner, but it is VERY unlikely to be in anything released this year (as in, it isn’t happening). as a corporation making projectors, i think that even if i had something ready to release this year, but it did not have 2.1, i wouldn’t release it, i’d wait until next year ao that i could put 2.1 chipsets in it.

if they release a 2.0 pj this year, they are putting themselves in an even worse boat than they did by not making the 5040 with an 18G port.


----------



## shasta

ccotenj said:


> there have been rumors.
> 
> thing is, hdmi 2.1 is right around the corner, but it is VERY unlikely to be in anything released this year (as in, it isn’t happening). as a corporation making projectors, i think that even if i had something ready to release this year, but it did not have 2.1, i wouldn’t release it, i’d wait until next year ao that i could put 2.1 chipsets in it.
> 
> if they release a 2.0 pj this year, they are putting themselves in an even worse boat than they did by not making the 5040 with an 18G port.



Thanks, this makes sense, I'll probably wait until the CEDIA announcements and if it turns out the next evolution is still more than a year away I'll go with the 5040. Probably upgrade again in two years.


----------



## ccotenj

shasta said:


> Thanks, this makes sense, I'll probably wait until the CEDIA announcements and if it turns out the next evolution is still more than a year away I'll go with the 5040. Probably upgrade again in two years.



i figure that either 2020 or 2021 is going to be a rather expensive year.


----------



## shasta

ccotenj said:


> i figure that either 2020 or 2021 is going to be a rather expensive year.



Well we can't take it with us.


----------



## Dave in Green

There are always rumors about everything. Occasionally rumors prove to be credible.


----------



## ccotenj

shasta said:


> Well we can't take it with us.



it is my objective to spend everything i have before i kick the bucket.


----------



## ccotenj

gene4ht said:


> So, I’ll speculate once more and suggest that it is a design flaw/error that randomly and incorrectly places the PJ in a cooling logic state at start up, subsequently corrects itself, proved to have no negative effects, and thus never corrected!



i'll buy that speculation. why chase a bug that has no negative effects?


----------



## shasta

After just reading the entire thread regarding the 5040 power supply issues, I'll be steering very far away from this projector. Anyone have any suggestions for an alternative?


----------



## Azekecse

shasta said:


> After just reading the entire thread regarding the 5040 power supply issues, I'll be steering very far away from this projector. Anyone have any suggestions for an alternative?


Sony has a $5K 4k projector, also JVC RS is highly rated, but lamps are costly, so in essence, it's budget dependent. Personally, I enjoy my 6040UB, it is just a stop gap measure for a couple of years. Next will be 8K which will make the 4K projectors more affordable.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## avtoronto

shasta said:


> After just reading the entire thread regarding the 5040 power supply issues, I'll be steering very far away from this projector. Anyone have any suggestions for an alternative?



Check this site and this article in particular: https://www.projectorcentral.com/pr...Theater-Projectors-of-the-Summer&entry_id=751


----------



## WynsWrld98

ccotenj said:


> there have been rumors.
> 
> thing is, hdmi 2.1 is right around the corner, but it is VERY unlikely to be in anything released this year (as in, it isn’t happening). as a corporation making projectors, i think that even if i had something ready to release this year, but it did not have 2.1, i wouldn’t release it, i’d wait until next year ao that i could put 2.1 chipsets in it.
> 
> if they release a 2.0 pj this year, they are putting themselves in an even worse boat than they did by not making the 5040 with an 18G port.


Can you elaborate on this comment?: if they release a 2.0 pj this year, they are putting themselves in an even worse boat than they did by not making the 5040 with an 18G port


----------



## rmilyard

I just sold my Epson 5040ub however the buyer didn't get the Chief mounting bracket for the Chief mount. If anyone looking for just the bracket it PM me.


----------



## theaterofpain

Did you upgrade to something else or got rid of it for other reasons? I still feel that the 5040 is the best bang for your buck when it comes to LCD DLP (UHD65 is a half-assed attempt at offering an LCD 4K projector at a similar price-point) and would not give it up until a LCD DLP 18Gb/s HDMI 2.1 projector comes along.


----------



## wrighj9

MississippiMan said:


> Stop right there! What mount did you get? I ask because the 5040ub is a beastly big Girl, and the only mounting holes for inverted mounting are the ones left by removing the Feet. And those feet are all the way out at each corner. Strength and rigidity are critical needs for mounting the 5040ub. Oh....to be sure there are some mounts that will get you up in the air alright....but not nearly as well and secure as others. And NONE like the RPA-181 by Chief. So...what'cha got?
> 
> *I got a Peerless PRG-UNV. From what I've read, it isn't a Chief but should do the trick?*
> 
> Thanks for all your advice/answers so far. Very helpful!


----------



## gene4ht

wrighj9 said:


> MississippiMan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Stop right there! What mount did you get? I ask because the 5040ub is a beastly big Girl, and the only mounting holes for inverted mounting are the ones left by removing the Feet. And those feet are all the way out at each corner. Strength and rigidity are critical needs for mounting the 5040ub. Oh....to be sure there are some mounts that will get you up in the air alright....but not nearly as well and secure as others. And NONE like the RPA-181 by Chief. So...what'cha got?
> 
> *I got a Peerless PRG-UNV. From what I've read, it isn't a Chief but should do the trick?*
> 
> Thanks for all your advice/answers so far. Very helpful!
> 
> 
> 
> To my knowledge, @*MississippiMan* and I both recommend and are using the Chief Mounts and as he says..."none mo betta."  The correct "custom" bracket for the 5040/6040 is the Chief SLB357 which does not require the removal of the feet...see pictures in the link below from my previous post.
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48956017
Click to expand...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Juboy said:


> Watched the final two hours of Ozark using the new Orcus settings and then did some back to back comparisons with Orcus' previous settings and Rob's final settings. Each of the settings have elements that I like and despite being very clearly different, I found it difficult to say which I definitively prefer.
> 
> 
> Having then watched some additional content (all 4K HDR but a mix of TV and film)), I think I've reaffirmed my previous thoughts that Rob's settings look best to me with CGI heavy, non-realistic content (sci-fi, fantasy and superhero type stuff) while Orcus' settings are preferable for more real-life based content. For brighter source material, I prefer Orcus' previous settings but with darker, gloomier or more washed out content I prefer the latest settings.
> 
> With the ability to save all 3 options so easily with the Epson, I can now pretty much guess before watching a show/film which of them is likely to work best and simply load the relevant setting from the memory options. I've never seen my PJ perform better and despite always having liked the image, I now absolutely love it. I used to always watch with a nagging feeling that my LG OLED would be seriously outperforming it but don't have that worry to nearly the same degree now. The trade off for the much larger image with these new settings is entirely worth it.
> 
> Thanks again for your efforts to all concerned, great job!




You’re very welcome I’m glad they are working out well for you! I also completely agree that each of mine and @robc1976 settings are excellent and have qualities I greatly enjoy. After what must have been at least 20 hours learning how to calibrate for HDR and applying it to the Epson, you really have to make some tough decisions with respect to HDR and projectors. Robs settings accentuate specular highlights and simulated HDR exceptionally well, but at the expense of mid tone contrast and subsequent pop. My original settings maximize contrast and pop at the expense of shadow detail and specular highlights. In other words more of a stylized HDR simulation with high peak brightness but reduced mid tone dynamic range. Finally, my new settings basically say to hell with simulating HDR as I purposely boosted low end gamma shrinking the dynamic range but gaining image detail in darker areas. This decision killed specular highlights to a degree but makes the image much more filmic and natural which I personally prefer. Ultimately though, one can not go wrong using either of the settings exclusively or a combination of all three. They are each excellent in their own way and there is no right answer as to which one is better, as they are the direct reflection of the compromises/decisions you must make when calibrating a projector for HDR. 

As a side note, with all of the talk in this thread about quality issues I sometimes forget how friggen awesome this projector is. I just rewatched Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows as a torture test for my new settings and the image was truly jaw dropping and I actually chuckled at one point because it looked so good lol. Moments like that really make all the money spent on my system and time perfecting it worth it. And thank you again for sharing your thoughts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

ccotenj said:


> it is my objective to spend everything i have before i kick the bucket.



I’m a nursing home administrator and with all the people I have met in their final days not a single one has said they wished they did less and saved more 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

Loving every minute of the HDR optimized Infinity War on the 820/Epson 5040.

Epson Dynamic Range set to "auto" with these 820 settings. 

image hosting free


----------



## Lesmor

Evan201 said:


> Loving every minute of the HDR optimized Infinity War on the 820/Epson 5040.
> 
> Epson Dynamic Range set to "auto" with these 820 settings.



Looks awsome
As I have also got the 820 would you care to share your projector settings?


----------



## Juboy

OrcusVaruna said:


> As a side note, with all of the talk in this thread about quality issues I sometimes forget how friggen awesome this projector is. I just rewatched Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows as a torture test for my new settings and the image was truly jaw dropping and I actually chuckled at one point because it looked so good lol. Moments like that really make all the money spent on my system and time perfecting it worth it. And thank you again for sharing your thoughts.



Couldn't agree more. It's so easy to get hung up on the minor cons that sometimes the huge pros become overlooked. Over the last week or two and playing with these new settings I've had similar moments to you, where I'm almost laughing out loud at how astonishingly good some scenes look with this projector. The quality of image I'm seeing in my own home at the moment would have been completely unthinkable to me just five or so years ago.


Coincidentally, I was taken along to a rare (real) cinema viewing the other evening and throughout the film I kept thinking, 'This seriously doesn't look as good as my image at home'.


----------



## kbarnes701

OrcusVaruna said:


> As a side note, with all of the talk in this thread about quality issues I sometimes forget how friggen awesome this projector is. I just rewatched Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows as a torture test for my new settings and the image was truly jaw dropping and I actually chuckled at one point because it looked so good lol. Moments like that really make all the money spent on my system and time perfecting it worth it. And thank you again for sharing your thoughts.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good point. While there is a lot of chatter in these enthusiast threads about PSU failures (which are real - I had the same issue myself with fewer than 400 hours on the unit), it's important to remember that members of AVS will represent a very small proportion of all owners, and are much more likely to post about problems than about units performing perfectly. Nobody knows how prevalent this PSU problem is - it may be a small proportion of all units affected, or it may be a large proportion, but nobody really knows.

So, given that a problem does exist, it's probably more important to look at how the manufacturer resolves it than it is to speculate on how common it is. In that light, Epson seem to be doing a good job. They are replacing or repairing units with no hassle, which is as much as one can expect them to do. Some commenters wonder why Epson do not withdraw units which are likely to have the PSU fault, but this is probably not a practical proposition. The units will have been distributed all over the place and the fault may be random, or it may only affect units which have a particular component source, details of which are not recoverable from unit serial numbers. It could be the case that the supplier of the affected component had a faulty batch of materials used in component assembly but did not keep records of which components were affected, or that the supplier's supplier had the issue. Truth is, it's complicated and nobody knows. The only way to resolve it for sure is to recall *every* unit sold but that has its own set of problems and is probably not cost-effective if it is only a very small percentage of units which are affected.

What we do know for certain is that not every unit sold has the problem, so the only thing that owners can do is use their PJ, enjoy their PJ, marvel at how great the PQ is, and what fabulous value the unit represents and keep their fingers crossed that they won't have a PSU failure. The odds are probably with them on this. Of course, we shouldn't have to rely on crossed fingers when buying expensive units, but then life isn't perfect.


----------



## ccotenj

WynsWrld98 said:


> Can you elaborate on this comment?: if they release a 2.0 pj this year, they are putting themselves in an even worse boat than they did by not making the 5040 with an 18G port


sure.

if next year a whole bunch of source devices show up with 2.1 (and i think they will, manufacturers need something “new” to sell), they’d end up having just released a pj that is incompatible with it. 

and even if people don’t NEED it, you know they are gonna want it, and they’ll want it even more the following year.

if i’m a flat panel manufacturer, i don’t care, because i release new models every year. but pj’s don’t follow that cycle.

one person’s opinion.


----------



## shasta

Azekecse said:


> Sony has a $5K 4k projector, also JVC RS is highly rated, but lamps are costly, so in essence, it's budget dependent. Personally, I enjoy my 6040UB, it is just a stop gap measure for a couple of years. Next will be 8K which will make the 4K projectors more affordable.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke





Thanks, I'll have to keep looking and comparing. It's a same really because the 5040 would be perfect for what I'm looking for and I've absolutely have loved the 2150 over the last year, but the way Epson seems to have treated this problem and their customers really turns me off.


----------



## avtoronto

shasta said:


> Thanks, I'll have to keep looking and comparing. It's a same really because the 5040 would be perfect for what I'm looking for and I've absolutely have loved the 2150 over the last year, but the way Epson seems to have treated this problem and their customers really turns me off.


All projectors less than $5K are compromised in different ways. For example, the new 4K DLP projectors using the TI .47 chip cannot have their firmware upgraded by the user. The units have to be shipped back to the manufacturer. The Epson models 4000 through 6040 represent the best picture for the dollar by a wide consensus of users and reviewers. Epson 'hot swaps' defective units for those users affected by the power supply problem. I expect this is a minority of users otherwise there would be many more dissatisfied forum submissions and the 5040 in particular would not be a top selling unit. You can see from this forum that once dialed in, these projectors deliver a great picture.

A couple of years from now there will be better units available, likely around the $2K price point, but until then, many of us choose to enjoy our Epsons.


----------



## shasta

avtoronto said:


> All projectors less than $5K are compromised in different ways. For example, the new 4K DLP projectors using the TI .47 chip cannot have their firmware upgraded by the user. The units have to be shipped back to the manufacturer. The Epson models 4000 through 6040 represent the best picture for the dollar by a wide consensus of users and reviewers. Epson 'hot swaps' defective units for those users affected by the power supply problem. * I expect this is a minority of users otherwise there would be many more dissatisfied forum submissions and the 5040 in particular would not be a top selling unit. *You can see from this forum that once dialed in, these projectors deliver a great picture.
> 
> A couple of years from now there will be better units available, likely around the $2K price point, but until then, many of us choose to enjoy our Epsons.



Performance compromises are one thing, no performance is quite something else. I have no doubt about the performance of the 5040 in terms of what it can provide when it's working, it's what led me to it in the first place. However one read through of the, "Power supply failure thread" indicates a long standing pervasive production defect with this unit, starting when it was released and continuing up until today. Many of these people are experiencing not one failure, but two or three, one individual confirmed 5 units replace over 15 Months. All with Epson failing to acknowledge the problem as anything out of the normal % of production failures.


----------



## bluer101

The other issue is warranty running out soon for some. With a 2 year warranty what happens after that with a known power supply failure they are not really recognizing?

I myself bought mine in Jan 2017 and warranty will be up in a few months. I have 100 hours on the PJ due to moving into a new house. New house theater is under construction and soon to be up and running. So what would happen to mine if failure? It’s hard to hear these failures when it could happen right after theaters done and no warranty.


----------



## dholmes54

I know this has been asked several times but I have tried Harpervision a few times but pq wasn't great, looked again and noticed what I did wrong.Under the advance dynamic range is set at sdr and projector info its suppose to say bt 2020 hdr how do you get it to do that?


----------



## Evan201

Lesmor said:


> Looks awsome
> As I have also got the 820 would you care to share your projector settings?



Get the R. Masciola HDR10 patterns and if you don't have any calibration hardware, use the basic black, white, and color clipping patterns to dial it in for your screen. That's all I did. On the 820, you can see my settings in the picture I posted, but i'm also boosting color adjustment in the 820 to +12 which is max. Infinity War looked way too flat before I did that. 

I'm using:
Natural Mode
Brightness | 49
Contrast | 58
Color | 50 
Tint | 50 
6500k Color Temp. 
Gamma 0 
Dynamic Range Signal | Auto 
High Lamp
Iris | -8


----------



## Evan201

dholmes54 said:


> I know this has been asked several times but I have tried Harpervision a few times but pq wasn't great, looked again and noticed what I did wrong.Under the advance dynamic range is set at sdr and projector info its suppose to say bt 2020 hdr how do you get it to do that?



Feed the PJ a 4k HDR BT2020 12 Bit 4:2:2 Signal and you'll be good to go. I tried Harper and it just didn't work out on anything I ever watched due to having a Cinegrey 5D which I love. The natural mode is the only one I use now for HDR and SDR. Grab the R. Masciola SDR blu ray and his HDR pattern suite download. You'll be happy having some good black, white, and color clipping patterns that you know are correct.


----------



## dholmes54

thxs evan where is that Blu-ray download?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

shasta said:


> Thanks, I'll have to keep looking and comparing. It's a same really because the 5040 would be perfect for what I'm looking for and I've absolutely have loved the 2150 over the last year, but the way Epson seems to have treated this problem and their customers really turns me off.




I honestly would not discount the 5040 it’s a fantastic projector and even through my multiple replacements I can never fault their customer service, it really is some of the best I have dealt with. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

dholmes54 said:


> thxs evan where is that Blu-ray download?



diversifiedvideosolutions dot com


You can buy the Rec 709 SDR blu ray disc. For the HDR patterns you can choose to buy the more expensive 4k disc or do the cheaper download file. Its a huge file and Ryan gives you free updates any time upgrades are made to the patterns which is frequent as of late due to the HDR learning curve. You'll need a device capable of playing back H.265 files through USB. For me, my Nvidia Shield and UB820 do this fine. For the UB820 your USB will need to be formatted to FAT32 or EXFAT format. Upload the patterns you want onto the USB and pop it in the back USB input of the UB820 or the Nvidia Shield. Shield I used ES File Explorer to run the files.


----------



## shasta

OrcusVaruna said:


> I honestly would not discount the 5040 it’s a fantastic projector and even through my multiple replacements I can never fault their customer service, it really is some of the best I have dealt with.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I would buy the 5040 today if I thought there was a path for Epson actually solving this rather than kicking the can down the road. What happens when the two year warranty runs out and you're stuck with the third replacement? If you don't mind me asking, exactly how many have you had replaced?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

shasta said:


> I would buy the 5040 today if I thought there was a path for Epson actually solving this rather than kicking the can down the road. What happens when the two year warranty runs out and you're stuck with the third replacement? If you don't mind me asking, exactly how many have you had replaced?




I’m on replacement #3 but have not had any additional issues since I was told they had identified the capacitors as the issue and that this most recent replacement had the fix. This was back in March and I use the projector as my main television in my living room so I put way more use on the unit then the average owner. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

Howdy

Its been almost a year since the last time I really followed this thread. I've been using Harpervision settings when watching 4K UHD disc & Blu Ray. 

Is it still being used by most, has it been changed at all, or any other new settings? If so, can you show me where I can find the setting instructions...thanks


----------



## Evan201

Jameshtx said:


> Howdy
> 
> Its been almost a year since the last time I really followed this thread. I've been using Harpervision settings when watching 4K UHD disc & Blu Ray.
> 
> Is it still being used by most, has it been changed at all, or any other new settings? If so, can you show me where I can find the setting instructions...thanks



Grab the new Panasonic UB820 and you'll have more HDR control than you could ever want and you can ditch the dim harper settings.The UB820 helps brighten up HDR like I've never seen before.


----------



## WynsWrld98

shasta said:


> I would buy the 5040 today if I thought there was a path for Epson actually solving this rather than kicking the can down the road. What happens when the two year warranty runs out and you're stuck with the third replacement? If you don't mind me asking, exactly how many have you had replaced?


This is a very valid concern and I have the same concern. Originally when people said power supply failure I was thinking like a PC whereby power supply separate and just replace it and good to go but see comments in here the motherboard needs replacing when the power supply fails. So what does the power supply fix cost out of warranty? A very valid concern since some 5040/6040s will be going out of warranty in the not too distant future (unless purchased with a credit card that extends the warranty a year)...


----------



## crosswire

Evan201 said:


> Grab the new Panasonic UB820 and you'll have more HDR control than you could ever want and you can ditch the dim harper settings.The UB820 helps brighten up HDR like I've never seen before.


Im waiting for the 820 to show up here in Canada and will get it for sure. Any new firmware updates for the 5040ub since earlier in the year?


----------



## Evan201

crosswire said:


> Im waiting for the 820 to show up here in Canada and will get it for sure. Any new firmware updates for the 5040ub since earlier in the year?



Dont think so. I'm on 1.12 i believe.


----------



## avtoronto

crosswire said:


> Im waiting for the 820 to show up here in Canada and will get it for sure. Any new firmware updates for the 5040ub since earlier in the year?



The 820 was showing sold out on the Panasonic Canada site but now it isn't so perhaps there is more stock. Latest firmware is 1.12/1.11 so no recent change.


----------



## avtoronto

WynsWrld98 said:


> This is a very valid concern and I have the same concern. Originally when people said power supply failure I was thinking like a PC whereby power supply separate and just replace it and good to go but see comments in here the motherboard needs replacing when the power supply fails. So what does the power supply fix cost out of warranty? A very valid concern since some 5040/6040s will be going out of warranty in the not too distant future (unless purchased with a credit card that extends the warranty a year)...



I bought son-of-5040, the 4040. It has a three-year warranty (Canada), plus the credit card gave me an extra year, so four years total. I won't keep it for four years as I expect affordable improved projectors will be available in less time than this. So this might be one approach you could consider to offset the power worries.


----------



## bluer101

avtoronto said:


> I bought son-of-5040, the 4040. It has a three-year warranty (Canada), plus the credit card gave me an extra year, so four years total. I won't keep it for four years as I expect affordable improved projectors will be available in less time than this. So this might be one approach you could consider to offset the power worries.


But why should we when Epson needs to step up to the plate. They need to give us extended warranty to cover this issue.


----------



## Lithium

Jameshtx said:


> Howdy
> 
> Its been almost a year since the last time I really followed this thread. I've been using Harpervision settings when watching 4K UHD disc & Blu Ray.
> 
> Is it still being used by most, has it been changed at all, or any other new settings? If so, can you show me where I can find the setting instructions...thanks


A pretty up to date listing of settings can be found here, it may be missing a few of the latest, but I'm not sure: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352

I personally use Harper Digital Cinema w/ Oledurt Suggestions with a Samsung UHD player, on a 150" Seymour AV screen in a dedicated room, black ceiling, grey walls. I'm a sucker for the WCG (so digital cinema is a must) and every UHD disk I've thrown at it looks great to my eyes. It seems to handle the wide range of UHD disk nits masters pretty well.

Although now the new Panasonic UB820 is probably going to get you the best looking picture for the smallest amount of effort. The great thing about the player is it will take any UHD master and tone map it down to something like 500nits for HDR or it can do a direct HDR -> SDR2020 conversion. This will eliminate the variation some people see in their calibrations between disks mastered at lower nit levels (~1000) vs disks at higher levels (~4000 nits). Some professionals advise to go the SDR route for projectors to prevent double tone mapping, but others seem to have good success with passing the 500nits HDR and using default gamma (or close to it) on the Epson's HDR modes.

I may upgrade to the UB820 player soon to try out these projector optimized features.


----------



## Jameshtx

Evan201 said:


> Grab the new Panasonic UB820 and you'll have more HDR control than you could ever want and you can ditch the dim harper settings.The UB820 helps brighten up HDR like I've never seen before.




Really? Is it better than Oppo 203? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

Jameshtx said:


> Really? Is it better than Oppo 203?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Undoubtedly. It has a couple key advantages that are game changers especially for PJ owners with dim and clipping HDR highlights.


----------



## Jameshtx

ht guy said:


> Part of the issue may be that there are multiple versions here. I will try to delete the older ones and point to this post.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the latest version (the last one incorrectly indicated oledurt's v.2 Bright Cinema setting used 50 for brightness instead of 40.)
> 
> 
> 
> Most importantly, a big shout out and thank you to oledurt, Dave Harper and all the other users who have posted their settings here.




Remind me again why I should use the SDR on that list. Is it for movie disc that don’t have HDR?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Davemusic

Hello All,


I purchased the DVS HDR test patterns and have them downloaded to a USB. Is there any way to get that to display on my 5040 using the USB? If not, what is the best way to get them up on the display? I have HDMI out of my PC but not sure I have software capable of sending this resolution to the 5040. No Blu-Ray burner, just DVD 

Thanks,
David


----------



## avtoronto

bluer101 said:


> But why should we when Epson needs to step up to the plate. They need to give us extended warranty to cover this issue.


I was making a pragmatic suggestion for those who are still considering an Epson and want to gain as long a warranty as possible. Because the 4040 is a Pro Cinema model, its warranty is a year longer than the 5040's. Given how much time has passed, I am not expecting Epson to step up to the plate now. Are you? I do expect Epson will release new models sooner rather than waiting as the power issue must have cost Epson some sales.


----------



## gene4ht

OrcusVaruna said:


> As a side note, with all of the talk in this thread about quality issues I sometimes forget how friggen awesome this projector is.





Juboy said:


> Couldn't agree more. It's so easy to get hung up on the minor cons that sometimes the huge pros become overlooked.





kbarnes701 said:


> What we do know for certain is that not every unit sold has the problem, so the only thing that owners can do is use their PJ, enjoy their PJ, marvel at how great the PQ is, and what fabulous value the unit represents and keep their fingers crossed that they won't have a PSU failure..





avtoronto said:


> many of us choose to enjoy our Epsons.



My glass is mostly always half full! Therefore, for the record, I'm in total agreement with the comments above. IMO, the 5040/6040 has exceptional PQ, Epson has exceptional customer service, and I would purchase it again. Where I take issue is Epson's leadership's silence. Several of us have received some level of information/explanation from advanced support and/or engineering personnel. However, this information does not reflect the formal position of senior level decision makers. Regardless of the actual accuracy of objective data (percentage of failures, number of returns, complaints, etc.), this product has produced a noise level that has gone largely unaddressed. In today's age of transparency, it seems unfathomable that responsible leadership would not issue a statement of acknowledgement and remedy. This simple act would literally eliminate the noise, restore product and consumer confidence, and likely help fill sales pipelines. This is my .02 and as I'm going to watch Avengers now, I have no interest in debating further.


----------



## inspector

From what I have heard, anyone working here in the USA have no say as to what Epson will do...only the people in Japan.


----------



## shasta

gene4ht said:


> My glass is mostly always half full! Therefore, for the record, I'm in total agreement with the comments above. IMO, the 5040/6040 has exceptional PQ, Epson has exceptional customer service, and I would purchase it again. Where I take issue is Epson's leadership's silence. Several of us have received some level of information/explanation from advanced support and/or engineering personnel. However, this information does not reflect the formal position of senior level decision makers. Regardless of the actual accuracy of objective data (percentage of failures, number of returns, complaints, etc.), this product has produced a noise level that has gone largely unaddressed.* In today's age of transparency, it seems unfathomable that responsible leadership would not issue a statement of acknowledgement and remedy. This simple act would literally eliminate the noise, restore product and consumer confidence, and likely help fill sales pipelines. This is my .02 and as I'm going to watch Avengers now, I have no interest in debating further.*





I completely agree, and the silence from Epson at this point speaks volumes to me. The 5040 is two years into it's run and there has been no official acknowledgment regarding what is clearly a design flaw. This pretty much tells me they will likely be unveiling the 5040's replacement very soon. The logic is really simple, if Epson intended moving forward with the 5040 for the next year plus they would have stepped up by now to address the issue we all know exists and restore consumer confidence going forward, but they haven't. This tells me they are content to roll out a true 4k replacement within the year and continue to ship refurbished replacement 5040's until everyone's warranty expires. Disappointing.


----------



## Lithium

Jameshtx said:


> Remind me again why I should use the SDR on that list. Is it for movie disc that don’t have HDR?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Because HarperVision was a radical idea to abandon the Epson's HDR tone mapping and gamma algorithms. Instead it starts with SDR as a baseline and alters basic settings and gamma dramatically.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

Sorry ignore my last post. I misunderstood what you were asking. I thought you wondered why HV was SDR.

And yes, SDR settings in that spreadsheet are for regular Blu-ray, DVD, streaming, etc. Pretty much Natural mode is all you need and some basic adjustments.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## ricwhite

shasta said:


> I completely agree, and the silence from Epson at this point speaks volumes to me. The 5040 is two years into it's run and there has been no official acknowledgment regarding what is clearly a design flaw. This pretty much tells me they will likely be unveiling the 5040's replacement very soon. The logic is really simple, if Epson intended moving forward with the 5040 for the next year plus they would have stepped up by now to address the issue we all know exists and restore consumer confidence going forward, but they haven't. This tells me they are content to roll out a true 4k replacement within the year and continue to ship refurbished replacement 5040's until everyone's warranty expires. Disappointing.



The Epson 5040 line is a totally insignificant part of Seiko Epson's overall product line. It's meaningless. The vast majority of their projectors are for business applications. Home theater projectors are likely less than 1% of their overall projector sales. And projectors, overall, are a very small part of their product line. Most of their products are for business and industry. They produce industrial automation equipment, printers, robots. The "consumer" line is very small compared to their business and industrial lines. And home theater is a very small part of their consumer line. I'm sure they don't want to "lose" home theater customers, but in the overall scheme of things, if they did, it won't even make a blip on their financial radar. It's not that they don't "care" about home theater projector users, but since they are so insignificant, there is only so much they will do for them if they screwed up on one of their projectors.


----------



## dholmes54

Evan201 said:


> diversifiedvideosolutions dot com
> 
> 
> You can buy the Rec 709 SDR blu ray disc. For the HDR patterns you can choose to buy the more expensive 4k disc or do the cheaper download file. Its a huge file and Ryan gives you free updates any time upgrades are made to the patterns which is frequent as of late due to the HDR learning curve. You'll need a device capable of playing back H.265 files through USB. For me, my Nvidia Shield and UB820 do this fine. For the UB820 your USB will need to be formatted to FAT32 or EXFAT format. Upload the patterns you want onto the USB and pop it in the back USB input of the UB820 or the Nvidia Shield. Shield I used ES File Explorer to run the files.


Thanks Evan!


----------



## shasta

ricwhite said:


> The Epson 5040 line is a totally insignificant part of Seiko Epson's overall product line. *It's meaningless. * The vast majority of their projectors are for business applications. Home theater projectors are likely less than 1% of their overall projector sales. And projectors, overall, are a very small part of their product line. Most of their products are for business and industry. They produce industrial automation equipment, printers, robots. T*he "consumer" line is very small compared to their business and industrial lines.* And home theater is a very small part of their consumer line. I'm sure they don't want to "lose" home theater customers, but in the overall scheme of things, if they did, it won't even make a blip on their financial radar. It's not that they don't "care" about home theater projector users, *but since they are so insignificant, there is only so much they will do for them if they screwed up on one of their projectors*.





This is all probably true, which only reinforces my opinion that it's both easier and more cost effective for Epson to move on from the 5040. Especially when other companies have, or are about to move to true 4K projectors under $3,000 bucks.


----------



## ricwhite

shasta said:


> This is all probably true, which only reinforces my opinion that it's both easier and more cost effective for Epson to move on from the 5040. Especially when other companies have, or are about to move to true 4K projectors under $3,000 bucks.


Their 3LCD technology has been tweaked and refined over many years for their cheap home theater projectors. I think faux 4k is all they will get out of that technology. A "true" 4k will need to be a different technology and I'm sure they ARE working on a new line for that. But as far as their LCD home theater line, I think all we'll see are tweaks to the faux 4k - which I think is actually VERY good. Most people probably can't even tell the difference between faux 4k and true 4k. You need to know what to look for to see the difference. So, if you want a "close" to 4k projector for around $2,000, the 5040 series is probably the closest you'll get.


----------



## Evan201

ricwhite said:


> Their 3LCD technology has been tweaked and refined over many years for their cheap home theater projectors. I think faux 4k is all they will get out of that technology. A "true" 4k will need to be a different technology and I'm sure they ARE working on a new line for that. But as far as their LCD home theater line, I think all we'll see are tweaks to the faux 4k - which I think is actually VERY good. Most people probably can't even tell the difference between faux 4k and true 4k. You need to know what to look for to see the difference. So, if you want a "close" to 4k projector for around $2,000, the 5040 series is probably the closest you'll get.



For the price difference, faux 4k all day.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lithium said:


> Because HarperVision was a radical idea to abandon the Epson's HDR tone mapping and gamma algorithms. Instead it starts with SDR as a baseline and alters basic settings and gamma dramatically.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk




Yes at the time it was made Harpervision was great but I really believe we have learned enough about calibrating for hdr on the 5040 that crushing dynamic range by forcing the projector into sdr gamma and tone mapping is no longer necessary and actually takes away from the capabilities of what the projector is able to produce. I spent hours experimenting with my meter and sdr and could not achieve anything close to if you use either mine or robs gamma settings with the projector auto or autobright. The SDR calibrations I did always look lifeless in comparison. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## shasta

ricwhite said:


> Their 3LCD technology has been tweaked and refined over many years for their cheap home theater projectors. I think faux 4k is all they will get out of that technology. A "true" 4k will need to be a different technology and I'm sure they ARE working on a new line for that. But as far as their LCD home theater line, I think all we'll see are tweaks to the faux 4k - which I think is actually VERY good. Most people probably can't even tell the difference between faux 4k and true 4k. You need to know what to look for to see the difference. So, if you want a "close" to* 4k projector for around $2,000, the 5040 series is probably the closest you'll get.*



Which again, I would be thrilled with if not for the b.s. power supply issue.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Evan201 said:


> For the price difference, faux 4k all day.




Couldn’t agree more I can’t tell the difference once content is rolling and I sit 9’ away from a 100” screen. I will always take more potential lumens and higher contrast over more pixels any day 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

avtoronto said:


> All projectors less than $5K are compromised in different ways. *For example, the new 4K DLP projectors using the TI .47 chip cannot have their firmware upgraded by the user. The units have to be shipped back to the manufacturer. *...........



I believe the UHD51A is able to update FW over its wifi dongle connection. 




Jameshtx said:


> Howdy
> 
> 
> 
> Its been almost a year since the last time I really followed this thread. I've been using Harpervision settings when watching 4K UHD disc & Blu Ray.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it still being used by most, has it been changed at all, or any other new settings? If so, can you show me where I can find the setting instructions...thanks



If setup correctly it should still be one of the best iterations of HDR tone mapping out there. The BenQ LK970's I've recently done are nothing short of jaw dropping! I compared to many different other tone mapping programs and settings like in the Oppo 203, UB900, custom curves, etc. and they all had clipping and other issues which I never have with HV. 

I can't speak for the UB820 of course since I don't have one yet, but I hear it's great and can't wait to get one and test it out with my various HV settings. 




Evan201 said:


> Feed the PJ a 4k HDR BT2020 12 Bit 4:2:2 Signal and you'll be good to go. I tried Harper and it just didn't work out on anything I ever watched due to having a Cinegrey 5D which I love. The natural mode is the only one I use now for HDR and SDR. Grab the R. Masciola SDR blu ray and his HDR pattern suite download. You'll be happy having some good black, white, and color clipping patterns that you know are correct.



Did you try to adjust any of the user settings and the gamma to compensate for that screen? If so, what were the results? That would be good info to have! I wish I had one to further experiment! 




dholmes54 said:


> I know this has been asked several times but I have tried Harpervision a few times but pq wasn't great, looked again and noticed what I did wrong.Under the advance dynamic range is set at sdr and projector info its suppose to say bt 2020 hdr how do you get it to do that?



You have to make sure you're sending a full HDR 4K UHD BT2020 Signal into it, then forcibly select SDR instead of its default HDR. The HDR signal and metadata and bt2020 should still be present and maintained. 




Evan201 said:


> Grab the new Panasonic UB820 and you'll have more HDR control than you could ever want *and you can ditch the dim harper settings.* The UB820 helps brighten up HDR like I've never seen before.



If my settings were too dim, then something wasn't setup properly. The whole reason for HarperVision was to alleviate the dim HDR it natively produced. The only "dim" part of it may have been the use of the DCI-P3 color filter, but then if you didn't use it, you weren't getting the right colors, so pick your poison. It wasn't dim by any stretch if he imagination though. If you had brighter then you either manipulated gamma too much to maintain the right look and feel if the HDR image, lost the proper P3 colors, or both. 




Lithium said:


> Because HarperVision was a radical idea to abandon the Epson's HDR tone mapping and gamma algorithms. Instead it starts with SDR as a baseline and alters basic settings and gamma dramatically.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk



Keep in mind it "starts" with HDR and maintains that as the input signal. Only the projector is forced into SDR mode in order to achieve the end goal, but the input signal is and should be full HDR. 




OrcusVaruna said:


> *Yes at the time it was made Harpervision was great but I really believe we have learned enough about calibrating for hdr on the 5040 that crushing dynamic range by forcing the projector into sdr gamma and tone mapping is no longer necessary and actually takes away from the capabilities of what the projector is able to produce.* I spent hours experimenting with my meter and sdr and could not achieve anything close to if you use either mine or robs gamma settings with the projector auto or autobright. The SDR calibrations I did always look lifeless in comparison.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



You aren't taking away anything from what the projector is able to do. Either way you're using the full capabilities of it. It is and never was a native HDR machine. It is an SDR projector with HDR "compatibility" shoehorned into it, as is just about every other consumer projector short of a large venue Dolby Cinema projector, and even that is questionable compared to a real HDR mastering monitor. 

Every single instance of every single HDR signal you input into this and all consumer "HDR" projectors is being tone mapped to its peak SDR capabilities. You can't get more than what is inherently there. Peak white will be peak white, whether it's used for peak specular highlight whites or SDR 235/255 Signal white. It's all in the tone mapping and setup to take advantage of that. It can only give what it's capable of. It cannot do anything close to 1,000, 4,000 or 10,000 nits to do any specular highlights properly, so whatever ANYONE is doing, it's just tone mapping a real HDR signal into an "SDR" based one. It's just a matter of where and how you do it.


----------



## Jameshtx

Lithium said:


> Sorry ignore my last post. I misunderstood what you were asking. I thought you wondered why HV was SDR.
> 
> And yes, SDR settings in that spreadsheet are for regular Blu-ray, DVD, streaming, etc. Pretty much Natural mode is all you need and some basic adjustments.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


ahh okay thanks


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> I believe the UHD51A is able to update FW over its wifi dongle connection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If setup correctly it should still be one of the best iterations of HDR tone mapping out there. The BenQ LK970's I've recently done are nothing short of jaw dropping! I compared to many different other tone mapping programs and settings like in the Oppo 203, UB900, custom curves, etc. and they all had clipping and other issues which I never have with HV.
> 
> I can't speak for the UB820 of course since I don't have one yet, but I hear it's great and can't wait to get one and test it out with my various HV settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you try to adjust any of the user settings and the gamma to compensate for that screen? If so, what were the results? That would be good info to have! I wish I had one to further experiment!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have to make sure you're sending a full HDR 4K UHD BT2020 Signal into it, then forcibly select SDR instead of its default HDR. The HDR signal and metadata and bt2020 should still be present and maintained.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If my settings were too dim, then something wasn't setup properly. The whole reason for HarperVision was to alleviate the dim HDR it natively produced. The only "dim" part of it may have been the use of the DCI-P3 color filter, but then if you didn't use it, you weren't getting the right colors, so pick your poison. It wasn't dim by any stretch if he imagination though. If you had brighter then you either manipulated gamma too much to maintain the right look and feel if the HDR image, lost the proper P3 colors, or both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind it "starts" with HDR and maintains that as the input signal. Only the projector is forced into SDR mode in order to achieve the end goal, but the input signal is and should be full HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You aren't taking away anything from what the projector is able to do. Either way you're using the full capabilities of it. It is and never was a native HDR machine. It is an SDR projector with HDR "compatibility" shoehorned into it, as is just about every other consumer projector short of a large venue Dolby Cinema projector, and even that is questionable compared to a real HDR mastering monitor.
> 
> Every single instance of every single HDR signal you input into this and all consumer "HDR" projectors is being tone mapped to its peak SDR capabilities. You can't get more than what is inherently there. Peak white will be peak white, whether it's used for peak specular highlight whites or SDR 235/255 Signal white. It's all in the tone mapping and setup to take advantage of that. It can only give what it's capable of. It cannot do anything close to 1,000, 4,000 or 10,000 nits to do any specular highlights properly, so whatever ANYONE is doing, it's just tone mapping a real HDR signal into an "SDR" based one. It's just a matter of where and how you do it.



Dave, I apologize my post was rushed and poorly worded...

I fully realize that the peak luminance values the projector can produce is something that can not be changed, and that a standard dynamic range is the best this projector is capable of. What I was trying to say is I personally felt like I was able to achieve an “HDR” image with more punch using auto or autobright as a starting point. Honestly, this might more to do with my high gain ALR screen than anything else. On another note, with my meter I didn’t find the colors to be that far off p3 when using natural, especially yellow and to an extent green (which I find are the colors I can see inaccuracies in best). Switching back and forth between calibrated natural and digital cinema I found my perception of the difference in color to be minimal to non existent once content was playing and decided I preferred more light output over any loss of color accuracy with HDR material. But as I explained in one of my other posts, each of the meter calibrated settings posted by everyone on here is a reflection of the different choices we each made during our calibrations to shoehorn a standard into a display it was not designed for. When that’s the case it comes down to individual preference and any 5040 owner can take these settings and get a perfectly watchable “HDR” out of their projector. 

Also, as an aside I wanted to say thank you for all the work you put into this thread and taking the time to share your settings with us. Honestly, Harpervision actually stopped me from returning the unit as I was very unhappy with hdr performance until I found this forum and your settings. Cheers 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

Got my 115 inch 2:35 screen up. How far back should the projector be from a 115” 2:35 screen? I know I can zoom in and out but I’d like to have it where I have the sweet spot so to speak.

Thanks!!!


----------



## satyab

MAYAmanIGN said:


> Got my 115 inch 2:35 screen up. How far back should the projector be from a 115” 2:35 screen? I know I can zoom in and out but I’d like to have it where I have the sweet spot so to speak.
> 
> Thanks!!!


This tool could help.
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## Juiced46

dholmes54 said:


> I know this has been asked several times but I have tried Harpervision a few times but pq wasn't great, looked again and noticed what I did wrong.Under the advance dynamic range is set at sdr and projector info its suppose to say bt 2020 hdr how do you get it to do that?


It did not look good because you are not sending the projector an HDR BT2020 signal. What source are you using? If you do not have HDR BT2020 on the info screen it WILL look like poo poo.


----------



## Juiced46

roland6465 said:


> Good luck with that. Epson will send you a refurb that will either have a major defect out of the box, or die on you later. If you're persistent, you can get them to send you a new one by Halloween, but only after going through several refurbs.
> 
> As I said, good luck!



Well my refurb showed up on Tuesday. Unboxed it and fired it up. Spent some time tweaking my settings since I never saved any of my old stuff. I only have about 2 hours of use on the refurb now. But so far so good. No defects out of the box, no weird noises. No blobs, colors are correct. Everything seems great. The only thing would be is if the power supply lasts or not. Time will tell on that one. Overall though, I am happy.


----------



## MAYAmanIGN

satyab said:


> This tool could help.
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


Yeah, that says 16.2 feet but a 2:40 movie is still tiny at that distance. But the projector 16:9 image is a few feet to large. Confused. Looking for guidance from others with similar screens.


----------



## gene4ht

MAYAmanIGN said:


> Got my 115 inch 2:35 screen up. How far back should the projector be from a 115” 2:35 screen? I know I can zoom in and out but I’d like to have it where I have the sweet spot so to speak.
> 
> Thanks!!!



My 115 inch 2:35 screen is 12'-4" to the front of the projector's lens...room is dedicated and light controlled.


----------



## dholmes54

Thanks everyone,I guess I got confused with the dynamic range set at sdr and info saying 2020 hdr,im using 4k movies(don't ever have a stroke makes you goofy!!!)


----------



## sddp

So all of you who are using Harpers setting or not. What screen material are you using?
White or Cinegrey?


Pros/cons of going to a white screen 1.1 gain from having an Elite Screen cinegrey 1.3?


I have a 16:9 and redesigned my theater and have a few feet extra on the width and want to go 2:35:1
Elite does not make a Cinegrey3D (1.3 gain grey ALR screen) in the size I want. They only offer a white 1.1 or a grey 1.5 (and 1.5 is WAY too much as I have a light controlled room)


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> So all of you who are using Harpers setting or not. What screen material are you using?
> White or Cinegrey?
> 
> 
> Pros/cons of going to a white screen 1.1 gain from having an Elite Screen cinegrey 1.3?
> 
> 
> I have a 16:9 and redesigned my theater and have a few feet extra on the width and want to go 2:35:1
> Elite does not make a Cinegrey3D (1.3 gain grey ALR screen) in the size I want. They only offer a white 1.1 or a grey 1.5 (and 1.5 is WAY too much as I have a light controlled room)



Have you tried a sample of elites Cinegrey 5D material? It’s honestly not much different from the 3D material. If your dead set on going white I would save some money and get a silverticket or spend way more on an SI or Stewart. I have never really liked elites non light rejecting materials, they are not very color accurate and have a lot of texture. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

OrcusVaruna said:


> Have you tried a sample of elites Cinegrey 5D material? It’s honestly not much different from the 3D material. If your dead set on going white I would save some money and get a silverticket or spend way more on an SI or Stewart. I have never really liked elites non light rejecting materials, they are not very color accurate and have a lot of texture.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 

They sent me a sample of the white 1.1 and Cinegre 1.5, but I have order a few more and make a larger sample. Their one sheet size of a paper is hard to judge against a 150"

I know with white, everything will be brighter, but fear loosing out on black on films like Star Wars. Don't want a dark grey space when it's suppose to be pure black. I assume I would gain a lot of brighter colors and with 3D films less of the %20 light loss (due to the active 3D glasses) but with the loss of true blacks?


So you're saying their white 1.1 isn't color accurate?
I am referring to this:


https://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/287


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> They sent me a sample of the white 1.1 and Cinegre 1.5, but I have order a few more and make a larger sample. Their one sheet size of a paper is hard to judge against a 150"
> 
> I know with white, everything will be brighter, but fear loosing out on black on films like Star Wars. Don't want a dark grey space when it's suppose to be pure black. I assume I would gain a lot of brighter colors and with 3D films less of the %20 light loss (due to the active 3D glasses) but with the loss of true blacks?
> 
> 
> So you're saying their white 1.1 isn't color accurate?
> I am referring to this:
> 
> 
> https://elitescreens.com/front/front/productdetail/product/287




If you have a proper theater environment then a neutral white screen is the way to go. By proper theater I mean dark colored light absorbing paint or material on every surface to reduce reflections, not just a light controlled room. If you have this environment and want to go with a white screen all I am saying is there are better white materials for the same price or cheaper. Elites Cinewhite is more expensive, has more texture, and is slightly less color neutral then silver tickets matte white. Now having previously owned both a Cinewhite and silverticket matte white I would not buy one again. The reason being is elites Cinegrey (both 3D and 5D) materials are by far the best bang for your buck for any situation until you get to screens pushing $1500+ IMO. Now if I wanted to spend $1500+ on a screen I would go with a Stewart Cima Neve, Stewart Studiotek 130, or SI SolarHD white screen in a theater environment and an SI Black Diamond 1.4 or Dark Star 9 in a non theater environment. 


These are just my opinions but they are based on my experience doing home theater consulting back in the day (amazing how 5 years ago can seem like an eternity sometimes haha). my personal goal for a sale was always happy customers reflected by a low return percentage (happy customer, less returns, leads to word of mouth business, and more money for me lol). To accomplish this I had go to products for each price range that I knew they would be happy with. For screens it was always Elite Cinegrey 3D or 5D for a sub $1500 screen budget and one of the others sold interchangeably based on size desired & room environment to budget. This strategy pissed my boss off because I rarely sold the promo/kickback items. But my return percentage was always the lowest by far and sales less returns the highest so he couldn’t hate me too much lol 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hnupe

*Help - Thoughts on Dark Movie Settings*

All,

What is settings do you go with as it relates to dark 4k movies like "A Quiet Place"? It seems these type of movies and shows are hard to see in my little cinema room. Attached is a pic of my room...I also use Hue Color Lights.


----------



## loganross

Hi,
are you doing HDR to SDR conversion? If not, what gamma are you setting your projector to?

[/B]


Evan201 said:


> The new Panasonic UB820 UHD player is an amazing way to brighten up HDR. I leave the dynamic range on the epson in Auto (not auto-bright) and crank up the dynamic range slider on the Panny to +4 or +8 depending on the movie. The HDR optimizer keeps the highlights from clipping on the fly with the static HDR10. Its really the best I've seen the epson perform. Better than the Nvidia Shield TV HDR I'm getting from apps there. Way more HDR control and the optimizer is really slick. Best pairing you can put with the Epson in my opinion.


----------



## nofish

Hello!

Can anyone tell what setup I should use to get HDR on netflix? And where do I need to change it?

I use Panasonic UB820 , Marantz 6020 and Epson 6040.

Thank you in advance


----------



## inspector

hnupe said:


> All,
> 
> What is settings do you go with as it relates to dark 4k movies like "A Quiet Place"? It seems these type of movies and shows are hard to see in my little cinema room. Attached is a pic of my room...I also use Hue Color Lights.
> View attachment 2443854
> 
> 
> View attachment 2443856
> 
> 
> View attachment 2443858



Hey, my walls, from a partial way down, my ceiling and carpet are the same color as your HT. I guess that was popular color back in 2010 when my HT was built.


My HT room is 12' x 17' and to me it's not small, you're looks about the same size.


----------



## Mr.G

nofish said:


> Hello!
> 
> Can anyone tell what setup I should use to get HDR on netflix? And where do I need to change it?
> 
> I use Panasonic UB820 , Marantz 6020 and Epson 6040.
> 
> Thank you in advance


You can't stream Netflix HDR with the Panasonic UB820 on the Epson 6040, it's locked at 60Hz.


----------



## Mr.G

nofish said:


> Hello!
> 
> Can anyone tell what setup I should use to get HDR on netflix? And where do I need to change it?
> 
> I use Panasonic UB820 , Marantz 6020 and Epson 6040.
> 
> Thank you in advance


I should clarify. It's the Netflix app on the UB820 that's locked at 60Hz...not the Blu-ray player.


----------



## monkaquinas

*HDR Patterns via 820 USB?*



Evan201 said:


> Get the R. Masciola HDR10 patterns and if you don't have any calibration hardware, use the basic black, white, and color clipping patterns to dial it in for your screen. That's all I did. On the 820, you can see my settings in the picture I posted, but i'm also boosting color adjustment in the 820 to +12 which is max. Infinity War looked way too flat before I did that.
> 
> I'm using:
> Natural Mode
> Brightness | 49
> Contrast | 58
> Color | 50
> Tint | 50
> 6500k Color Temp.
> Gamma 0
> Dynamic Range Signal | Auto
> High Lamp
> Iris | -8


Evan, are you displaying these via USB thru the 820? I'm guessing you are, I'm going to give this a try now that I have my 820. Just wondered what process you used to display the patterns. Thanks in advance.


----------



## monkaquinas

monkaquinas said:


> Evan, are you displaying these via USB thru the 820? I'm guessing you are, I'm going to give this a try now that I have my 820. Just wondered what process you used to display the patterns. Thanks in advance.


NM Evan, I read your method a few posts past so I'm good. Wish me luck, so far I've been enjoying the HDR 4k using Orcus & Rob's mix.


----------



## monkaquinas

*HDR Optimizer On or Off*



Evan201 said:


> diversifiedvideosolutions dot com
> 
> 
> You can buy the Rec 709 SDR blu ray disc. For the HDR patterns you can choose to buy the more expensive 4k disc or do the cheaper download file. Its a huge file and Ryan gives you free updates any time upgrades are made to the patterns which is frequent as of late due to the HDR learning curve. You'll need a device capable of playing back H.265 files through USB. For me, my Nvidia Shield and UB820 do this fine. For the UB820 your USB will need to be formatted to FAT32 or EXFAT format. Upload the patterns you want onto the USB and pop it in the back USB input of the UB820 or the Nvidia Shield. Shield I used ES File Explorer to run the files.


So, do you run the patterns with the Optimizer off or on? Also, which files are the Black, White, & Color you use? My laptop can't display the images or mp4s. I'd like to only copy over those I need. Thanks!


----------



## nofish

Mr.G said:


> I should clarify. It's the Netflix app on the UB820 that's locked at 60Hz...not the Blu-ray player.


Thank you, so you saying is it's not doable or that I need to change the Hz to 24 on UB820 or receiver or Projector? 

Best Regards


----------



## crosswire

I just got an Onkyo NR787 and have my current samsung k8500 4k player with my 5040ub projector. I'm looking to upgrade to the panny ub820 4k player soon. Is there considerable benefit in the viewing experience with the new 4k player for those that upgraded?
Also - I didnt realize that i could connect my 4k player HDMI audio only to my receiver. Don't know which HDMI input it should for on the nr787 for the audio.


----------



## Mr.G

nofish said:


> Thank you, so you saying is it's not doable or that I need to change the Hz to 24 on UB820 or receiver or Projector?
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards




Netflix HDR is not doable on the UB820. You can stream Netflix but because the app is locked at 60Hz you will only get SDR. Panasonic asked Netflix to add the 24Hz capability but they declined. Reason unknown. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

nofish said:


> Thank you, so you saying is it's not doable or that I need to change the Hz to 24 on UB820 or receiver or Projector?
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards




If you want 24p playback for streaming services (which you should ) I would recommend and Apple TV 4K. Frame and range matching works perfectly on it with most major streaming services including Netflix and Amazon. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

OrcusVaruna said:


> If you want 24p playback for streaming services (which you should ) I would recommend and Apple TV 4K. Frame and range matching works perfectly on it with most major streaming services including Netflix and Amazon.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Apple 4K TV is pricey. Re: streaming Netflix and Amazon in HDR does it offer any benefit over the inexpensive Firestick? Both play nice with the 5040/6040 with 4K HDR 24p, right?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

WynsWrld98 said:


> The Apple 4K TV is pricey. Re: streaming Netflix and Amazon in HDR does it offer any benefit over the inexpensive Firestick? Both play nice with the 5040/6040 with 4K HDR 24p, right?




It does but I have 24p disabled on my fire tv on another television as playback is not smooth and often stutters to the point of being unwatchable. What your really paying for with the Apple TV is the quality of the image processor (it does an incredible job and even allows you to output 1080p HDR if you want) and Apple ecosystem integration.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

For you guys that have been running HIGH lamp mode for a long time now. How has your bulb treating you? Is there anyone out there with 1000+ hours on HIGH lamp mode?

I have been running ECO for the past year in BRIGHT CINEMA and have been very happy. I have been debating on doing a new calibration on high lamp mode but do not want to kill my bulb.


----------



## Juiced46

monkaquinas said:


> NM Evan, I read your method a few posts past so I'm good. Wish me luck, so far I've been enjoying the HDR 4k using Orcus & Rob's mix.



I cannot find the post, how are you guys running the R. Masciola files? USB or running it through a PC to the Projector?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Juiced46 said:


> I cannot find the post, how are you guys running the R. Masciola files? USB or running it through a PC to the Projector?




I used a chromecast ultra from my pc 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

OrcusVaruna said:


> I used a chromecast ultra from my pc
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I do not have an Ultra, just a plain old Chromecast. Will that do or do a I need an ultra? I also have non 4K laptop with an HDMI out I can use possibly or will an Xbox One X or PS4 Pro work?


----------



## WynsWrld98

Juiced46 said:


> For you guys that have been running HIGH lamp mode for a long time now. How has your bulb treating you? Is there anyone out there with 1000+ hours on HIGH lamp mode?
> 
> I have been running ECO for the past year in BRIGHT CINEMA and have been very happy. I have been debating on doing a new calibration on high lamp mode but do not want to kill my bulb.


I run high lamp for HDR and medium lamp for non-HDR and get about 1500 hours on the lamp before replacing it. It's not that bad at 1500 hours but I miss the extra lumens of a newer lamp and typically replace at around 1500 hours.


----------



## hnupe

*Dark Movies????*



inspector said:


> Hey, my walls, from a partial way down, my ceiling and carpet are the same color as your HT. I guess that was popular color back in 2010 when my HT was built.
> 
> 
> My HT room is 12' x 17' and to me it's not small, you're looks about the same size.


What setting do you use for dark movies?


----------



## Iceman24

I'm confused about this 1.12/1.11 firmware. I bought my 5040ub 2 months ago. I recall it saying 111 at the end of version, but in downloads section, I see 1.12/1.11, which doesn't make any sense to me and I can't find anything clarifying this.


----------



## nofish

OrcusVaruna said:


> If you want 24p playback for streaming services (which you should ) I would recommend and Apple TV 4K. Frame and range matching works perfectly on it with most major streaming services including Netflix and Amazon.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok thank you! I will get one Apple tv 4k today, then I will try our settings for it!


----------



## inspector

hnupe said:


> What setting do you use for dark movies?



Since my HT is light controlled, I use BRIGHT CINEMA for UHD, NATURAL for color B&W BD/SD, 3D DYNAMIC for 3D color and 3D CINEMA for B&W 3D.


My settings are all over the place. A little from Harper and some from all others. Are the setting perfect, who knows. They look great to my eyes and that's all that matters. 


I've only done one setting, NATURAL and that was with a color/light meter and disc. 


Hope this helps.


----------



## Mr.G

nofish said:


> Ok thank you! I will get one Apple tv 4k today, then I will try our settings for it!


The Apple TV 4K is an excellent streamer although it's not perfect, the anticipated firmware upgrade should take of the present short-comings. I own one and like it.

The disappointment with the UB820 not streaming 24p HDR is that it would have been nice to test the HDR Optimiser feature on Netflix.

I believe that even the Panasonic UB900 Blu-ray player has the Netflix app locked at 60Hz.


----------



## --Sclaws

Juiced46 said:


> For you guys that have been running HIGH lamp mode for a long time now. How has your bulb treating you? Is there anyone out there with 1000+ hours on HIGH lamp mode?
> 
> I have been running ECO for the past year in BRIGHT CINEMA and have been very happy. I have been debating on doing a new calibration on high lamp mode but do not want to kill my bulb.


I'm at about 1500hrs and run it on high almost all the time. The 5040 is my primary daily viewer, and so far its holding up well. I'm going to try to run it to 2000 before changing out the lamp.


----------



## avtoronto

inspector said:


> Since my HT is light controlled, I use BRIGHT CINEMA for UHD, NATURAL for color B&W BD/SD, 3D DYNAMIC for 3D color and 3D CINEMA for B&W 3D.
> 
> 
> My settings are all over the place. A little from Harper and some from all others. Are the setting perfect, who knows. They look great to my eyes and that's all that matters.
> 
> 
> I've only done one setting, NATURAL and that was with a color/light meter and disc.
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.



Just a small comment. I think from the various 'settings-related' posts, it's apparent we each have different experiences. The screen plays a huge role, as does your room, wall colors, and ambient light. There is no gold standard when it comes to settings, unless one calibrates one's own set-up. My settings also are a mish mash, and for me, my HDR content shows best using Digital Cinema rather than Natural. Some of us obsess over this stuff (guilty) so I have to keep reminding myself there is no holy grail, just incremental tweaks.


----------



## Azekecse

--Sclaws said:


> I'm at about 1500hrs and run it on high almost all the time. The 5040 is my primary daily viewer, and so far its holding up well. I'm going to try to run it to 2000 before changing out the lamp.


I'm running Med Lamp @ about 2800 hours, I'm going to swap out @ ~3000 hours, although it says I can wait to 3500 hours...I want to swap out prior to the NFL regular season and get 100 hours on the new bulb.

Yes I would swap out @ 2000 hours, and then use the old lamp as a backup (don't forget to mark the hours on the old lamp box).

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## inspector

avtoronto said:


> Just a small comment. I think from the various 'settings-related' posts, it's apparent we each have different experiences. The screen plays a huge role, as does your room, wall colors, and ambient light. There is no gold standard when it comes to settings, unless one calibrates one's own set-up. My settings also are a mish mash, and for me, my HDR content shows best using Digital Cinema rather than Natural. Some of us obsess over this stuff (guilty) so I have to keep reminding myself there is no holy grail, just incremental tweaks.




...and there is our hobby in a nutshell!!!


----------



## crosswire

My screen is so so and wondering what motorized 120" pull down screen is out there. mine is 120" EluneVision Reference Studio 4K Tab-Tensioned
Screen-16:9-1.0 Gain


----------



## nofish

OrcusVaruna said:


> If you want 24p playback for streaming services (which you should ) I would recommend and Apple TV 4K. Frame and range matching works perfectly on it with most major streaming services including Netflix and Amazon.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If I may ask what settings do you have in Apple 4K TV

Best Regards


----------



## OrcusVaruna

nofish said:


> If I may ask what settings do you have in Apple 4K TV
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards



Running it in 4K60 SDR with frame and range match enabled. You’ll be amazed by how good it’s video processor is.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ccotenj

OrcusVaruna said:


> You’ll be amazed by how good it’s video processor is.



it IS superb.


----------



## descalabro

crosswire said:


> My screen is so so and wondering what motorized 120" pull down screen is out there. mine is 120" EluneVision Reference Studio 4K Tab-Tensioned
> Screen-16:9-1.0 Gain


From my search, you screen costs around $1400. Why is it so so instead of good?


----------



## wizzy

I'll start with a silly question: I need to manually switch modes when going between SDR and HDR, right? The 5040 isn't smart enough to recognize the content type and adjust on the fly.

Secondly, what's the currently thinking on color mode for SDR? On the consolidated settings doc I saw a couple of Cinema's and a couple of Naturals. I'm in a light controlled room.

I'll be using an i1 display pro and HCFR.


----------



## avtoronto

crosswire said:


> My screen is so so and wondering what motorized 120" pull down screen is out there. mine is 120" EluneVision Reference Studio 4K Tab-Tensioned
> Screen-16:9-1.0 Gain



I have an Elunevision. They are usually compared to Stewart Filmscreen and considered fairly high-end. In Canada, they are cheaper than Stewart. What do you think a different screen will improve? Do you need ALR material?


----------



## crosswire

avtoronto said:


> I have an Elunevision. They are usually compared to Stewart Filmscreen and considered fairly high-end. In Canada, they are cheaper than Stewart. What do you think a different screen will improve? Do you need ALR material?



oh I didn't know the comparison to Stewart - The issue is that ceiling height right now which when rolled half way down to a 2.39:1 crop - I see vertical wrinkles forming from top - When I roll it down further to 16x9 ratio - they go away. I just upgraded to new receiver and 4k player and watched deadpool 2 last nite and looked pretty good. 



I terms of improvement - I was wondering the next step up in motorized screen. being in complete dark room, would achieve or benefits. Perhaps good blacks or maybe a grey screen would have better contrasts ? No ALR required.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

crosswire said:


> oh I didn't know the comparison to Stewart - The issue is that ceiling height right now which when rolled half way down to a 2.39:1 crop - I see vertical wrinkles forming from top - When I roll it down further to 16x9 ratio - they go away. I just upgraded to new receiver and 4k player and watched deadpool 2 last nite and looked pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> I terms of improvement - I was wondering the next step up in motorized screen. being in complete dark room, would achieve or benefits. Perhaps good blacks or maybe a grey screen would have better contrasts ? No ALR required.




Why don’t you keep the screen at 16x9 and add some removable velvet masking similar to this https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/151611-inexpensive-diy-masking-panels/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

crosswire said:


> oh I didn't know the comparison to Stewart - The issue is that ceiling height right now which when rolled half way down to a 2.39:1 crop - I see vertical wrinkles forming from top - When I roll it down further to 16x9 ratio - they go away. I just upgraded to new receiver and 4k player and watched deadpool 2 last nite and looked pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> I terms of improvement - I was wondering the next step up in motorized screen. being in complete dark room, would achieve or benefits. Perhaps good blacks or maybe a grey screen would have better contrasts ? No ALR required.



You received an adjustment tool with the screen that can be used to gently tighten it. The adjustment screw is on the right side of the bottom bar and you access it and make the adjustment when the screen is deployed. You can also phone Elunevision's support line. 



If you are in a completely dark room, you don't need an ALR (grey) screen.


----------



## crosswire

avtoronto said:


> You received an adjustment tool with the screen that can be used to gently tighten it. The adjustment screw is on the right side of the bottom bar and you access it and make the adjustment when the screen is deployed. You can also phone Elunevision's support line.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are in a completely dark room, you don't need an ALR (grey) screen.


Ok will try that - thanks! the vertical lines show up on the top of the screen when I try to not roll it all the way down to 16x9


----------



## rustolemite

Has anybody thought about changing out the fan in their 5040 with more efficient one like a Noctua PC fan?
The Noctua fans in my HTPC are amazing and super quiet.



Thanks.


----------



## WynsWrld98

rustolemite said:


> Has anybody thought about changing out the fan in their 5040 with more efficient one like a Noctua PC fan?
> The Noctua fans in my HTPC are amazing and super quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Don't you void the warranty if you open it? Perhaps after the warranty has expired it may make sense.


----------



## rustolemite

WynsWrld98 said:


> Don't you void the warranty if you open it? Perhaps after the warranty has expired it may make sense.


Probably so but curious anyway.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

rustolemite said:


> Has anybody thought about changing out the fan in their 5040 with more efficient one like a Noctua PC fan?
> The Noctua fans in my HTPC are amazing and super quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



I just don’t find them to be loud at all. Maybe it’s because they are quieter then my central air which runs basically 24/7 here in Florida and I came from a BenQ w1070 which sounded like a jet engine preparing for take off lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just don’t find them to be loud at all. Maybe it’s because they are quieter then my central air which runs basically 24/7 here in Florida and I came from a BenQ w1070 which sounded like a jet engine preparing for take off lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 Well since the firmware update I have no need for High mode on the fan but when I am just sitting there on the pc I can hear it just being picky.


----------



## sddp

OrcusVaruna said:


> If you have a proper theater environment then a neutral white screen is the way to go. By proper theater I mean dark colored light absorbing paint or material on every surface to reduce reflections, not just a light controlled room. If you have this environment and want to go with a white screen all I am saying is there are better white materials for the same price or cheaper. Elites Cinewhite is more expensive, has more texture, and is slightly less color neutral then silver tickets matte white. Now having previously owned both a Cinewhite and silverticket matte white I would not buy one again. The reason being is elites Cinegrey (both 3D and 5D) materials are by far the best bang for your buck for any situation until you get to screens pushing $1500+ IMO. Now if I wanted to spend $1500+ on a screen I would go with a Stewart Cima Neve, Stewart Studiotek 130, or SI SolarHD white screen in a theater environment and an SI Black Diamond 1.4 or Dark Star 9 in a non theater environment.
> 
> 
> These are just my opinions but they are based on my experience doing home theater consulting back in the day (amazing how 5 years ago can seem like an eternity sometimes haha). my personal goal for a sale was always happy customers reflected by a low return percentage (happy customer, less returns, leads to word of mouth business, and more money for me lol). To accomplish this I had go to products for each price range that I knew they would be happy with. For screens it was always Elite Cinegrey 3D or 5D for a sub $1500 screen budget and one of the others sold interchangeably based on size desired & room environment to budget. This strategy pissed my boss off because I rarely sold the promo/kickback items. But my return percentage was always the lowest by far and sales less returns the highest so he couldn’t hate me too much lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




First off, I want to thank you for your detailed info. I know this has been covered many times. Yet your input made complete sense.
2nd. It/s not really an opinion, with your experience and the context of your post. It's bottom line just expert advice.


My room (ceiling included) is painted with a matte sage green color. Although it's not light absorbing.
To be on the safe side, I've ordered a sample of the cinewhite 1.1 and the Cinegrey 1.5 and will test it out. I am satisfied with the Cinegrey 1.3 that I have, but they do not make that in a 175" 2:35:1 size 
I have quotes for the grey 1.5 for about 2K and the cinewhite 1.1 for about $1,100. What a HUGE price jump for ALR.


This will be a for ever screen (well in theory lol), do to the difficulty in put them together and plus I can never go any bigger as this is already pushing the limit from L to R speakers.


The black diamond is way out of my budget, how would you compare the other screens you mentioned against Elite Cinewhite 1.1




Thanks


----------



## Viche

OrcusVaruna said:


> I had a high contrast grey silver ticket and it was very difficult to calibrate for since it introduces a strong blue and green push to the image and was just not a good screen material overall. I just think for the money there are better options especially if your after a grey screen. Elites ALR materials mop the floor with the grey and silver silverticket screens. Now if your going with their white material it’s very good for the price. But based on your room I would absolutely get an alr grey screen and would recommend the Elite Cinegrey 3D or 5D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How about silver ticket vs elite in matte white?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> First off, I want to thank you for your detailed info. I know this has been covered many times. Yet your input made complete sense.
> 2nd. It/s not really an opinion, with your experience and the context of your post. It's bottom line just expert advice.
> 
> 
> My room (ceiling included) is painted with a matte sage green color. Although it's not light absorbing.
> To be on the safe side, I've ordered a sample of the cinewhite 1.1 and the Cinegrey 1.5 and will test it out. I am satisfied with the Cinegrey 1.3 that I have, but they do not make that in a 175" 2:35:1 size
> I have quotes for the grey 1.5 for about 2K and the cinewhite 1.1 for about $1,100. What a HUGE price jump for ALR.
> 
> 
> This will be a for ever screen (well in theory lol), do to the difficulty in put them together and plus I can never go any bigger as this is already pushing the limit from L to R speakers.
> 
> 
> The black diamond is way out of my budget, how would you compare the other screens you mentioned against Elite Cinewhite 1.1
> 
> 
> Thanks



Sales person does not constitute expert advice in anyway, I’ll leave that to reviewers and calibrators but I appreciate the compliment . As for your question the Cinewhite is a perfectly fine material on par with the SilverTicket Matte White material. As for how it compares to the other white materials I mentioned I would say there is a reason why SI and Stewart are able to command a premium. It mainly comes down to texture and screen uniformity at higher gains, with a touch of better color reproduction thrown in for good measure. IME the better the projector the more the screen matters as the small differences are exacerbated especially with highly color accurate high contrast projectors. If you ever get the chance to see any JVC projector paired with a Studiotek 130 in a well designed theater you will get what I am talking about. As for pairing a screen with the Epson I would say the Cinewhite will be just fine because the 5040 is both brighter and lower contrast then a truly premium projector. That being said, at the size screen your talking about in a good but not perfect theater environment, I would no doubt spend the extra money on the Cinegrey 5D. Personally I would want the extra gain for HDR & 3D and the ALR properties to drive higher contrast. 175” is a massive screen to light which will also help to eliminate (or drastically reduce) any hotspotting the 1.5 gain would introduce. My guess would be that the 5D would keep the image looking pretty consistent with the image you are getting from the 3D at your current screen size. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Viche said:


> How about silver ticket vs elite in matte white?




Save your money and buy the silver ticket unless you want the Aeon edge free look. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## javanpohl

I have two questions:

1) is there a firmware update or some setting that mitigates the banding? I don't think I've ever had a display with such poor banding. Or is it maybe an issue with my UHD blu-ray player?

2) Since these projectors aren't really doing true 4K, even with their "wobulation" enabled, could you cheat with a PC for gaming by outputting less than full 4k resolution and get the same results?


----------



## sddp

OrcusVaruna said:


> Sales person does not constitute expert advice in anyway, I’ll leave that to reviewers and calibrators but I appreciate the compliment . As for your question the Cinewhite is a perfectly fine material on par with the SilverTicket Matte White material. As for how it compares to the other white materials I mentioned I would say there is a reason why SI and Stewart are able to command a premium. It mainly comes down to texture and screen uniformity at higher gains, with a touch of better color reproduction thrown in for good measure. IME the better the projector the more the screen matters as the small differences are exacerbated especially with highly color accurate high contrast projectors. If you ever get the chance to see any JVC projector paired with a Studiotek 130 in a well designed theater you will get what I am talking about. As for pairing a screen with the Epson I would say the Cinewhite will be just fine because the 5040 is both brighter and lower contrast then a truly premium projector. That being said, at the size screen your talking about in a good but not perfect theater environment, I would no doubt spend the extra money on the Cinegrey 5D. Personally I would want the extra gain for HDR & 3D and the ALR properties to drive higher contrast. 175” is a massive screen to light which will also help to eliminate (or drastically reduce) any hotspotting the 1.5 gain would introduce. My guess would be that the 5D would keep the image looking pretty consistent with the image you are getting from the 3D at your current screen size.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Thank you again


From my understanding, reason Elite is less expensive, is because they make them over seas. The screen size I want (either the white or grey) I was told is about 120+ days. Where as all of the other screens even though at the size would have to be custom made, would take about a few weeks since they're in the US.


I thought the contrast on this Epson being at 1 million is way more than enough?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> Thank you again
> 
> 
> From my understanding, reason Elite is less expensive, is because they make them over seas. The screen size I want (either the white or grey) I was told is about 120+ days. Where as all of the other screens even though at the size would have to be custom made, would take about a few weeks since they're in the US.
> 
> 
> I thought the contrast on this Epson being at 1 million is way more than enough?




The quoted contrast numbers are misleading as each manufacturer has their own voodoo math to come up with those quoted contrast numbers. The true contrast ratio (peak white to minimum signal black) of the 5040 is around 5000:1, which is excellent. The entry level JVC’s however are around 20000:1, and the top of the line reference series are pushing 60000:1 (which is close to the contrast ratio of the old Panny ZT plasmas). So when your talking numbers like that you can see where small differences in screen material can make a huge difference. And heck if you have the money to burn on a 4-10k projector your probably getting a 2-10K screen just because you can lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

OrcusVaruna said:


> The quoted contrast numbers are misleading as each manufacturer has their own voodoo math to come up with those quoted contrast numbers. The true contrast ratio (peak white to minimum signal black) of the 5040 is around 5000:1, which is excellent. The entry level JVC’s however are around 20000:1, and the top of the line reference series are pushing 60000:1 (which is close to the contrast ratio of the old Panny ZT plasmas). So when your talking numbers like that you can see where small differences in screen material can make a huge difference. And heck if you have the money to burn on a 4-10k projector your probably getting a 2-10K screen just because you can lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Great. I should have figured That's kind of depressing.. 1 million inflation to a realistic 5,000? WOW
Just like receivers that say 140watts by 11 channels. Which is technically IMPOSSIBLE as my separate amps that are 3 channel at 300 watts weigh 3 times as much as the receiver and is almost twice the size. Guess everyone plays with semantics and exaggerate 




So here's another question on going to the 2:35 world. 


As of now my Epson is on a 150" 16:9 and zoomed in to fill it. So all 16:9 films fill it up and any film that is in 2:35 I simply get the top & bottom bars.


Last night I was watching Intersteller and literally every other scene switched from 16:9 to 2:35, then to 16 then to 35 through out the entire film. 
So going to a 2:35 and setting the Epson to zoom it on it, what happens when it goes back and forth from 35 to 16 and so forth?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> Great. I should have figured That's kind of depressing.. 1 million inflation to a realistic 5,000? WOW
> Just like receivers that say 140watts by 11 channels. Which is technically IMPOSSIBLE as my separate amps that are 3 channel at 300 watts weigh 3 times as much as the receiver and is almost twice the size. Guess everyone plays with semantics and exaggerate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here's another question on going to the 2:35 world.
> 
> 
> As of now my Epson is on a 150" 16:9 and zoomed in to fill it. So all 16:9 films fill it up and any film that is in 2:35 I simply get the top & bottom bars.
> 
> 
> Last night I was watching Intersteller and literally every other scene switched from 16:9 to 2:35, then to 16 then to 35 through out the entire film.
> So going to a 2:35 and setting the Epson to zoom it on it, what happens when it goes back and forth from 35 to 16 and so forth?




To ensure proper presentation for the entire film you would watch it in 16:9 and live with the black bars on the top and bottom as watching it in 2:35 you would cut off way too much of the image. I really hate Christopher Nolan’s love affair with flip flopping aspect ratios. It’s jarring and detracts from the movies imo. I would also highly recommend making some diy vertical masking panels you can toss on when watching 16:9 content. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## spirithockey79

OrcusVaruna said:


> To ensure proper presentation for the entire film you would watch it in 16:9 and live with the black bars on the top and bottom as watching it in 2:35 you would cut off way too much of the image. I really hate Christopher Nolan’s love affair with flip flopping aspect ratios. It’s jarring and detracts from the movies imo. I would also highly recommend making some diy vertical masking panels you can toss on when watching 16:9 content.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




You can also use the blanking feature so when it switches you don’t even notice. Now you won’t see the entire 16x9 picture but you won’t be distracted by the switching aspect ratios 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## evilmonstertruk

OrcusVaruna said:


> To ensure proper presentation for the entire film you would watch it in 16:9 and live with the black bars on the top and bottom as watching it in 2:35 you would cut off way too much of the image. I really hate Christopher Nolan’s love affair with flip flopping aspect ratios. It’s jarring and detracts from the movies imo. I would also highly recommend making some diy vertical masking panels you can toss on when watching 16:9 content.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nolan does that because he uses different cameras for certain scenes.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

evilmonstertruk said:


> Nolan does that because he uses different cameras for certain scenes.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




I know it’s because of his love affair with large format film which is cumbersome to film with because of the size of the cameras for more then a few minutes at a time. I’ll give him that large format does look fantastic but for a home video presentation I would much prefer it was cropped like a non imax viewing is in the theater. I just find the switch between large format and 35mm to be jarring at home. In an imax viewing I don’t notice the difference in aspect ratio and clarity nearly as much as I do at home. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

spirithockey79 said:


> You can also use the blanking feature so when it switches you don’t even notice. Now you won’t see the entire 16x9 picture but you won’t be distracted by the switching aspect ratios
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



It’s a trade off for sure especially with Nolan films because he loves to use anywhere but the center of the frame for really important parts of the picture. There was a funny YouTube video of the Dark Knight on a CIH setup using blanking where peoples heads were cut off in basically every imax scene 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

My HT is pitch black, so I don't notice when the film is changing aspect ratios.


----------



## Ragnorok

Ragnorok said:


> ccotenj, avtoronto,
> 
> 
> In an effect I call "The Magic Of Asking", not ten minutes after posting here, I found a web site that compared copper & optical HDMI. I *think* I may be having a cable issue, and even if I'm not, from what I've read 4k degrades considerably over the 30 feet of cable to the projector. So I just ordered an optical HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> On the settings, I didn't change anything 4k-specific. I just turned off conversion and it would die right there. Or I'd leave it on and set various resolutions and it would die right there. I did them all from 720 to 4k, but didn't change anything but resolution / frame rate. At no setting would it work except 1080p/24 with conversion on.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also still perplexed that the Oppo at 1080p/24 doesn't work.
> 
> 
> In any case I think I need the cable for reliable 4k regardless, so I've kicked the can down the road until that gets here. Meantime I'm using this down time to mount the new acoustically transparent screen. Figured the old 4x3 I got in 1998 has served me well, but it's time for an upgrade.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time...
> - Ragnorok


All,


The optical HDMI cable did the trick. Everything works exactly as it should, without any conversions in the mix. It's very spiff!


I wound up getting Monoprice Slimline that's a whopping 75' long b/c that's the shortest one I could find, but it's light. I can't see how 75' instead of 30' will be really noticable, and it's not.


I just had that part of my house redone and I haven't gotten light control in place, but I don't seem to watch much until after dark, at least not since I finally got it all assembled. Mounting speakers behind the screen was more of a project than I expected. (grin) When I get some light control and/or feel like fiddling with things, I look forward to the wealth of adjustment info everyone has provided. I think it'll take longer to digest all that than adjust it.



Thanks for everyone for your suggestions...
- Ragnorok


Monster Vision is: Epson 5040UB, Elite Aeon 135", Denon AVR-X4400H w/ 7 speakers, BIC F-12 subwoofer, Oppo UDP-203, Roku Streaming Stick+


----------



## Jameshtx

Lithium said:


> Sorry ignore my last post. I misunderstood what you were asking. I thought you wondered why HV was SDR.
> 
> And yes, SDR settings in that spreadsheet are for regular Blu-ray, DVD, streaming, etc. Pretty much Natural mode is all you need and some basic adjustments.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk




So I would use any of the SDR settings on the list for streaming from Apple TV 4K or is there a separate recommended setting for it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Scott27

What 3d glasses are you using, just the stock Epson ones, or something else? The Epson ones are $99 each in Aus!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Scott27 said:


> What 3d glasses are you using, just the stock Epson ones, or something else? The Epson ones are $99 each in Aus!




Not sure what’s available down under but in the us amazon has dozens of good ones for about $40. I really like the Value View as they are comfortable, not too dark of a lens and fit over my glasses.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Scott27

OrcusVaruna said:


> Not sure what’s available down under but in the us amazon has dozens of good ones for about $40. I really like the Value View as they are comfortable, not too dark of a lens and fit over my glasses.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah not much available on Amazon Australia unfortunately. Although the Sintron St-07 look alright, and are only $50 for 2 pairs so Ive ordered them. Thanks OV.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Jameshtx said:


> So I would use any of the SDR settings on the list for streaming from Apple TV 4K or is there a separate recommended setting for it?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I use cinema at night and natural during the day. Here some good starting point settings but I highly recommend picking up DVE or Disney WOW and doing a simple SDR calibration yourself tailored to your room and screen. Basic SDR calibration with this projector is pretty straight forward, nothing like HDR lol










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## terminal33

OrcusVaruna said:


> I use cinema at night and natural during the day. Here some good starting point settings but I highly recommend picking up DVE or Disney WOW and doing a simple SDR calibration yourself tailored to your room and screen. Basic SDR calibration with this projector is pretty straight forward, nothing like HDR lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


With the Disney WOW for Contrast, is Super White supposed to be "on" or "off?" I thought one of them would make the whole screen white and not be able to see the stars for adjustment. I just got a .9 gain ALR screen (coming from a 1.1 gain white screen) and so the image was overall dimmer. I want to adjust it and get the brightness back.


----------



## sddp

spirithockey79 said:


> You can also use the blanking feature so when it switches you don’t even notice. Now you won’t see the entire 16x9 picture but you won’t be distracted by the switching aspect ratios
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Thanks!
Was wondering exactly what that was and how it works. 
For those who don't know, here's a detailed video I found:


----------



## Azekecse

sddp said:


> Thanks!
> Was wondering exactly what that was and how it works.
> For those who don't know, here's a detailed video I found:
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiwUcMe6MoY


Great video find, I was wondering how that worked myself...Now can you save the blank configs with a pre-saved lens memory? I will test...seems like you should.

At first I thought this was an attempt a sarcasm , because I thought he was referring to the blank on the remote, silly me  Great suggestion spirithockey79.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## WynsWrld98

Azekecse said:


> Great video find, I was wondering how that worked myself...Now can you save the blank configs with a pre-saved lens memory? I will test...seems like you should.
> 
> At first I thought this was an attempt a sarcasm , because I thought he was referring to the blank on the remote, silly me  Great suggestion spirithockey79.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


I used it when watching Tron Legacy this weekend since it switches back and forth between 16:9 and 2.4:1, great feature.


----------



## Azekecse

*When do you replace your Lamp on the Epson 5040/6040???*

Ok, when do you replace your Epson Lamp...I'm currently running lamp on Medium and thinking of replacing the lamp at 2000 hrs, right before the NFL/College football Season. What about you out there? Your thought are welcome  .

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## ccotenj

not an apples to apples comparison here, since i run in eco mode almost all the time, but i have 2400 hours or so on mine and have not even thought about replacing it yet.

i also have a “somewhat light controlled” room and a hp 2.4 screen. tbh, i’d like to replace the screen now that lumens aren’t an issue anymore.


----------



## satyab

Azekecse said:


> Ok, when do you replace your Epson Lamp...I'm currently running lamp on Medium and thinking of replacing the lamp at 2000 hrs, right before the NFL/College football Season. What about you out there? Your thought are welcome  .
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


I am wondering the same. Info page on my Proj says 1390Hrs. Is there a recommended hours after which we need to change lamp. I toggle between medium to high depending on what I am watching.


----------



## descalabro

Azekecse said:


> Ok, when do you replace your Epson Lamp...I'm currently running lamp on Medium and thinking of replacing the lamp at 2000 hrs, right before the NFL/College football Season. What about you out there? Your thought are welcome  .
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


If you're after the most stable image possible in terms of light output, you can replace it halfway its advertised duration. If you don't mind it loosing some brightness over time, you can (and should) replace it as soon as it starts flickering.


----------



## GoCubsGo36

Someone in my neighborhood is selling this projector used for $650. There is 1100 hours on the bulb and it was purchased in September of 2016 meaning the warranty is about to expire. I cant help but be intrigued by this offer as the reviews are amazing about the projector besides the power supply issue that seems to be problem with a lot of these but typically experienced early in the life cycle. They have not experienced any issues yet but I feel like they are trying to get out ahead of it with the warranty about to expire. Do you think this is a worthwhile purchase or would you stay clear knowing that you don't have a warranty?


----------



## muad'dib

GoCubsGo36 said:


> Someone in my neighborhood is selling this projector used for $650. There is 1100 hours on the bulb and it was purchased in September of 2016 meaning the warranty is about to expire. I cant help but be intrigued by this offer as the reviews are amazing about the projector besides the power supply issue that seems to be problem with a lot of these but typically experienced early in the life cycle. They have not experienced any issues yet but I feel like they are trying to get out ahead of it with the warranty about to expire. Do you think this is a worthwhile purchase or would you stay clear knowing that you don't have a warranty?


The good thing about using warranty if you get it.. You get a new bulb..  In replacement projector...


----------



## The_Forth_Man

GoCubsGo36 said:


> Someone in my neighborhood is selling this projector used for $650. There is 1100 hours on the bulb and it was purchased in September of 2016 meaning the warranty is about to expire. I cant help but be intrigued by this offer as the reviews are amazing about the projector besides the power supply issue that seems to be problem with a lot of these but typically experienced early in the life cycle. They have not experienced any issues yet but I feel like they are trying to get out ahead of it with the warranty about to expire. Do you think this is a worthwhile purchase or would you stay clear knowing that you don't have a warranty?


First of this is a great projector with awesome feature for its price point. Couple of questions tho!

As he been the only owner, was the unit bought new and is this a pet/smoke free house. 

If so then I'd buy it after carefully looking at the picture to be sure that there no problems with it.

I mean people buy used cars out of warranty all the time and they are way more expensive.

my 2cts


----------



## GoCubsGo36

The_Forth_Man said:


> First of this is a great projector with awesome feature for its price point. Couple of questions tho!
> 
> As he been the only owner, was the unit bought new and is this a pet/smoke free house.
> 
> If so then I'd buy it after carefully looking at the picture to be sure that there no problems with it.
> 
> I mean people buy used cars out of warranty all the time and they are way more expensive.
> 
> my 2cts



He has been the only owner, it was bought new on September 10th, 2016 from best buy. I know this because I asked if he had the receipt which he did.

It's a smoke free/pet free household. I think he's going through a divorce and selling the house because they have countless things for sale and this is one of them. It seems like a great price for the projector.

I don't have much 4K media so mostly will be watching this in 1080, the majority will be for sports and TV. I'm just wondering if its worth the risk of getting this with a known power issue vs buying the optoma 143X which will save some money and have a limited warranty. Im guessing the answer is yes but is the picture far superior on the 5040 compared to the 143X for 1080P? Or am I talking apples and oranges comparing these two? Sorry for all the questions, I'm a total noob when it comes to projectors.


----------



## ccotenj

GoCubsGo36 said:


> Someone in my neighborhood is selling this projector used for $650. There is 1100 hours on the bulb and it was purchased in September of 2016 meaning the warranty is about to expire. I cant help but be intrigued by this offer as the reviews are amazing about the projector besides the power supply issue that seems to be problem with a lot of these but typically experienced early in the life cycle. They have not experienced any issues yet but I feel like they are trying to get out ahead of it with the warranty about to expire. Do you think this is a worthwhile purchase or would you stay clear knowing that you don't have a warranty?



i would pay 650 for one without thinking twice.


----------



## gene4ht

GoCubsGo36 said:


> Someone in my neighborhood is selling this projector used for $650. There is 1100 hours on the bulb and it was purchased in September of 2016 meaning the warranty is about to expire. I cant help but be intrigued by this offer as the reviews are amazing about the projector besides the power supply issue that seems to be problem with a lot of these but typically experienced early in the life cycle. They have not experienced any issues yet but I feel like they are trying to get out ahead of it with the warranty about to expire. Do you think this is a worthwhile purchase or would you stay clear knowing that you don't have a warranty?





ccotenj said:


> i would pay 650 for one without thinking twice.



I would have to agree with Chris...at $650, the rewards are greater than the risk! Further, an advanced technical support engineer I spoke with suggested that the 2 year warranty would not necessarily be a brick wall but addressed on a case by case basis dependent on the situation. Although not strictly Epson policy, it possibly provides an additional path for remedy,


----------



## ccotenj

gene4ht said:


> I would have to agree with Chris...at $650, the rewards are greater than the risk! Further, an advanced technical support engineer I spoke with suggested that the 2 year warranty would not necessarily be a brick wall but addressed on a case by case basis dependent on the situation. Although not strictly Epson policy, it possibly provides an additional path for remedy,


far greater. psu issues and 12G port get a lot of talk, and understandably so.

but we tend to forget sometimes how good this unit really is. it is a better pj than the mitsu diamond it replaced, and i paid more than twice as much for the mitsu.

it has a good lens. it does a good job of pixel shifting. it puts out enough lumens to be easily used in a non-light controlled environment. it is close to color accurate out of the box (at least mine was), and has the tools to make it be more accurate, as well as adapt to different rooms. it has a massive amount of lens shift. it is reasonably quiet. etc.

as far as the psu and epson support going forward. one of the reasons i bought this was because of their reputation for customer service. while they have not been as transparent about the psu issues as they ahould have been, they are taking care of the people who have problems (although undeniably, it is a pita). i would expect (not KNOW, but expect) that they would go ahead and enhance that rep by taking care of anyone who has the psu issue past 2 years. after all, when you think about it, there likely aren’t that many left out in the field at this point. there were a large number of failures within what (in retrospect) was a relatively short period of time. then it reduced down to a trickle, and there have been very few reported recently.


----------



## waynejs

GoCubsGo36 said:


> He has been the only owner, it was bought new on September 10th, 2016 from best buy. I know this because I asked if he had the receipt which he did.
> 
> It's a smoke free/pet free household. I think he's going through a divorce and selling the house because they have countless things for sale and this is one of them. It seems like a great price for the projector.
> 
> I don't have much 4K media so mostly will be watching this in 1080, the majority will be for sports and TV. I'm just wondering if its worth the risk of getting this with a known power issue vs buying the optoma 143X which will save some money and have a limited warranty. Im guessing the answer is yes but is the picture far superior on the 5040 compared to the 143X for 1080P? Or am I talking apples and oranges comparing these two? Sorry for all the questions, I'm a total noob when it comes to projectors.


Yes, as others have stated, I would go for it, $650 is a steal for this projector. Are you from the Chicago area? If so, and you decide not to buy it, I would buy it from him!


----------



## gene4ht

ccotenj said:


> far greater. psu issues and 12G port get a lot of talk, and understandably so.
> 
> but we tend to forget sometimes how good this unit really is. it is a better pj than the mitsu diamond it replaced, and i paid more than twice as much for the mitsu.
> 
> it has a good lens. it does a good job of pixel shifting. it puts out enough lumens to be easily used in a non-light controlled environment. it is close to color accurate out of the box (at least mine was), and has the tools to make it be more accurate, as well as adapt to different rooms. it has a massive amount of lens shift. it is reasonably quiet. etc.
> 
> as far as the psu and epson support going forward. one of the reasons i bought this was because of their reputation for customer service. while they have not been as transparent about the psu issues as they ahould have been, they are taking care of the people who have problems (although undeniably, it is a pita). i would expect (not KNOW, but expect) that they would go ahead and enhance that rep by taking care of anyone who has the psu issue past 2 years. after all, when you think about it, there likely aren’t that many left out in the field at this point. there were a large number of failures within what (in retrospect) was a relatively short period of time. then it reduced down to a trickle, and there have been very few reported recently.


+1
Well said!


----------



## Azekecse

GoCubsGo36 said:


> Someone in my neighborhood is selling this projector used for $650. There is 1100 hours on the bulb and it was purchased in September of 2016 meaning the warranty is about to expire. I cant help but be intrigued by this offer as the reviews are amazing about the projector besides the power supply issue that seems to be problem with a lot of these but typically experienced early in the life cycle. They have not experienced any issues yet but I feel like they are trying to get out ahead of it with the warranty about to expire. Do you think this is a worthwhile purchase or would you stay clear knowing that you don't have a warranty?


Wow, sounds almost too good to be true...I'd get the receipt and would plug it in to ensure it powers on, just sayin'.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## GoCubsGo36

I pulled the trigger on this yesterday and absolutely love it already. Thank you all for your input. The picture is fantastic on this projector but I definitely didn't realize the shear size of the projector. Its a tank. Ill have to look into calibrating it with some of the settings on this thread. Currently Ill mostly be using it for 1080 P so I know harpervision is out of the question. Any links to good calibration settings?

To get the most out of this, I would like to get something to provide 4K content for streaming. From browsing through the thread, it sound like people tend to like the Nvidia Shield and the Apple 4K TV as its fulfils the projectors requirements. I don't have an Xbox One S or PS4 and don't want to buy them and add a linker.

Any recommendations on which I should get? Is one superior to the other? I've been an apple person so I was leaning in that direction but would like some input before buying either.


----------



## ccotenj

^ 

great! 

i’m an applehead, so i’m partial to my apple tv 4k.


----------



## FreyTheater

So it looks like there are two newer models of the Aussie/Asian versions of Epson projectors just announced earlier today - the Epson EH-TW7400 and EH-TW9400. Still look like the 4000 and 5040, so the 7400 must be the new 4100(?) and the 9400 is the new 5050... fingers crossed! 






Here is some info on the TW9400, page is in French (Google Translate is our friend!), but it does have 18Gb HDMI, 4k60Hz HDR, 2600 lumens, 1.2M:1 Contrast, and 3D support, which are the main things I wanted in a new model. Still a pixel-shifing 4Ke, but that's Ok for me. Looks like a November release for those models. Don't know if the 5050 version will come out any sooner over here. 

http://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/30/08/2018/epson-eh-tw9400-et-eh-tw9400w-rumeurs-ifa-2018/

If this is all true, I'll be returning the 4000 I just picked up on sale at my local Best Buy and waiting for the 5050 to release here. 3 months is going to be an eternity, though!


----------



## simonk83

Hey all, 

I had my 9300 (which is the 6040 I think?) calibrated a while back, but something isn't quite right as when playing HDR material (I had a HDR setting calibrated as well), the whites are way too white and I lose all detail (is that called white bloom?). Just wondering where to start looking to reduce that in the settings? I know I should calibrate properly, and I will at some point, but for now I just want to get a bit more detail showing in those really white scenes.

Thanks!


----------



## WynsWrld98

FreyTheater said:


> So it looks like there are two newer models of the Aussie/Asian versions of Epson projectors just announced earlier today - the Epson EH-TW7400 and EH-TW9400. Still look like the 4000 and 5040, so the 7400 must be the new 4100(?) and the 9400 is the new 5050... fingers crossed!
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLIS...ature=youtu.be
> 
> Here is some info on the TW9400, page is in French (Google Translate is our friend!), but it does have 18Gb HDMI, 4k60Hz HDR, 2600 lumens, 1.2M:1 Contrast, and 3D support, which are the main things I wanted in a new model. Still a pixel-shifing 4Ke, but that's Ok for me. Looks like a November release for those models. Don't know if the 5050 version will come out any sooner over here.
> 
> http://www.passionhomecinema.fr/blog/index.php/30/08/2018/epson-eh-tw9400-et-eh-tw9400w-rumeurs-ifa-2018/
> 
> If this is all true, I'll be returning the 4000 I just picked up on sale at my local Best Buy and waiting for the 5050 to release here. 3 months is going to be an eternity, though!


I see HLG listed in the specs, are there any HLG sources now or on the horizon that could be used with the new 5050/6050 in the U.S.?


----------



## simonk83

robc1976 said:


> Yes, your settings blow it away! I have comparison pics lol! No contest. I just used your new ones and those are best for gaming and uhd. With contrast at 40 it clipped at 70% around 800 nits, I lowered contrast to 22 and it clips at 1100.
> 
> The colors are slightly more vivid, still tweaking gamma but think its as good as others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I'd be really interested if you guys could test Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire in 4K at 9:22. In this scene there's a spotlight or something shining on the guy speaking, and in my previous settings you couldn't see any detail in his face, it was just a glowing white ball  . Seems like a good scene to test settings in. I tried the settings posted on the page of the above quote, and needed to lower the contrast to around 20 to be able to make out detail in his face.

If anyone has any other know good test scenes I'm all ears.

Thanks!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

simonk83 said:


> I'd be really interested if you guys could test Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire in 4K at 9:22. In this scene there's a spotlight or something shining on the guy speaking, and in my previous settings you couldn't see any detail in his face, it was just a glowing white ball  . Seems like a good scene to test settings in. I tried the settings posted on the page of the above quote, and needed to lower the contrast to around 20 to be able to make out detail in his face.
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has any other know good test scenes I'm all ears.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!




Some WB and paramount titles are mastered at 4000 nits for some stupid reason. You unfortunately have to have separate settings with drastically reduced contrast or a flatter gamma curve to display properly. Or you have to purchase a Blu-Ray player with an hdr optimizer such as the panny 850 and adjust accordingly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## simonk83

OrcusVaruna said:


> Some WB and paramount titles are mastered at 4000 nits for some stupid reason. You unfortunately have to have separate settings with drastically reduced contrast or a flatter gamma curve to display properly. Or you have to purchase a Blu-Ray player with an hdr optimizer such as the panny 850 and adjust accordingly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh that's annoying. Is there a movie/scene you recommend for testing this stuff? Especially white and black levels.


----------



## Lesmor

Jaflores said:


> Does anyone else think we need a official dedicated thread for just the settings from Harper and oledurt? For HDR And SDR. AT 14K posts it's very hard for new members to find these settings or for them to know if they are post firmware update or not. Maybe the opening posts have all of the settings with last updated tags on them from the creators. In the post thereafter we can add others settings to try. I believe this will cut down on the best settings question that happens 100 times a day. Please some one set this up asap. I am currently trying to find beat SDR settings for the and Blu-ray as we speak . Thanks


Sounds a good idea 
An alternative would be if members added their latest settings in their signature,just as Dave Harper (Harpervision ) did


----------



## OrcusVaruna

simonk83 said:


> Oh that's annoying. Is there a movie/scene you recommend for testing this stuff? Especially white and black levels.




The one you picked out is a perfect one. That particular scene with the light shining on the minister of magic at the quidditch World Cup clips at a full 4000 nits. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

satyab said:


> I am wondering the same. Info page on my Proj says 1390Hrs. Is there a recommended hours after which we need to change lamp. I toggle between medium to high depending on what I am watching.


Lamp Life: Up to 5,000 hours (ECO Mode); up to 4,000 hours (Medium Mode); up to 3,500 hours (High Mode)

Peace and blessings, 

Azeke


----------



## monkaquinas

*UB820 & Epson 5040UB*

I upgraded to the 5040UB in April and have been upgrading the components through my systems to get to 4K and finally added the UB820 a couple of weeks ago. I’ve enjoyed Rob’s and Orcus video settings and finally decided to jump into a calibration of my own (no light meter or cal SW).
I used the DVE, Spears, and WOW discs to dial in the SDR/BT2020 video based on a recommendation from Kris and his testing of the 820 and its tone mapping. My first pass was with the DVE and then the Spears disc, and finally the WOW disc that has great video tests from actual movies.
I discovered a big red push with Surrogates and Pirates and I used the 820 to dial it back under a second profile. It seemed better, still bothers me that I had to set 2 SDR settings in the 820 after dialing in the 5040.
I then pulled up the Masciola HDR patterns and ran thru them to ensure that there wasn’t anything too off. Below are my settings while watching John Wick UHD. I need to figure out Gamma and how it affects the image and do another pass. Any advice or suggestions are appreciated.


----------



## satyab

Looks like Roku supporting 4K HDR(12 Bit 4:2:2) 24Hz with latest update. I always used to get 4K SDR. After about 2 months first time I am using for Jack Ryan series. I am getting HDR and Atmos.


----------



## dagameballa

I'm waiting for the new epson pj to come out and on a google search found this. Looks like the new one is confirmed 4k 60hz hdr with 18gb hdmi speeds. https://www.epson.co.za/insights/article/epson-s-unveils-three-pro-uhd-projectors-at-ifa


----------



## WynsWrld98

monkaquinas said:


> I upgraded to the 5040UB in April and have been upgrading the components through my systems to get to 4K and finally added the UB820 a couple of weeks ago. I’ve enjoyed Rob’s and Orcus video settings and finally decided to jump into a calibration of my own (no light meter or cal SW).
> I used the DVE, Spears, and WOW discs to dial in the SDR/BT2020 video based on a recommendation from Kris and his testing of the 820 and its tone mapping. My first pass was with the DVE and then the Spears disc, and finally the WOW disc that has great video tests from actual movies.
> I discovered a big red push with Surrogates and Pirates and I used the 820 to dial it back under a second profile. It seemed better, still bothers me that I had to set 2 SDR settings in the 820 after dialing in the 5040.
> I then pulled up the Masciola HDR patterns and ran thru them to ensure that there wasn’t anything too off. Below are my settings while watching John Wick UHD. I need to figure out Gamma and how it affects the image and do another pass. Any advice or suggestions are appreciated.


Why are you getting SDR when the top of the info screen shows HDR 24p? I think many people have advised to not use Auto (Bright) due to it blowing out whites.


----------



## WynsWrld98

satyab said:


> Looks like Roku supporting 4K HDR(12 Bit 4:2:2) 24Hz with latest update. I always used to get 4K SDR. After about 2 months first time I am using for Jack Ryan series. I am getting HDR and Atmos.


What streaming sources from the Roku are providing 4K HDR (12 bit 4:2:2) 24 Hz to the Epson? I think Jack Ryan you mention is Amazon, what about Netflix and You Tube? Which Roku model do you have? Is there a new setup option in the Roku to specify 24 Hz?


----------



## WynsWrld98

dagameballa said:


> I'm waiting for the new epson pj to come out and on a google search found this. Looks like the new one is confirmed 4k 60hz hdr with 18gb hdmi speeds. https://www.epson.co.za/insights/article/epson-s-unveils-three-pro-uhd-projectors-at-ifa


Another link about it someone posted mentioned Frame Interpolation with 4K signals didn't see that in this press release. Anyone know if HLG will buy us anything in the U.S. upon launch or in the not too distant future? Hopefully they redesigned the power supply. With 18 GB HDMI I wonder if they'll have the many second delay like the JVC projectors have when switching HDMI I've seen a demo with it and it's super annoying.


----------



## monkaquinas

WynsWrld98 said:


> Why are you getting SDR when the top of the info screen shows HDR 24p? I think many people have advised to not use Auto (Bright) due to it blowing out whites.





Kris Deering said:


> HDR Optimizer 101:
> 
> With output of player set to HDR- It does two things really. First, it remaps the metadata to whatever type of display you selected in the main setup menu. So lets say OLED. Now the metadata is MaxCLL to 1000 and MaxDML to 1000. This changes what the display sees so that if it actually uses that metadata, it tone maps to these numbers. The player then tone maps based on the actual disc metadata and assumes its tone map for a display that does 1000 nits. This provides the player the knowledge of what the display can do (max nits) and it hopes the display will be doing its best with the metadata it sends it.
> 
> With output set to SDR - If you have HDR optimizer OFF, the player does a generic tone map with all content tone mapped at 1000 nits (because most content falls around 1000 nits max) and it assumes your display is around 350 nits (based on not changing the slider). This will actually work well with the majority of content because again, the majority of content is 1000 nits and the majority of SDR type displays work well with 350 nits. If you turn the optimizer ON, the only difference now is the player intelligently tone maps based on the discs metadata, so no more just always tone mapping to 1000 nits. This will optimize on a per disc basis for titles that have information different than just 1000 nits (think Sony, Warner, Lionsgate). Now the tone map will be based on the specific title to the peak value you set for your display. So if you have a title that is 1000 nits (Fox and Disney), it will look exactly the same as Optimizer off, but if you have titles with MaxCLL that is a lot higher or lower, it will optimize the tone map for those titles. Obviously the farther away from 1000 nits, the more optimization occurs. So YMMV on a title by title basis.


I set it to SDR in the UB820 based on the above post from Kris.


----------



## satyab

WynsWrld98 said:


> What streaming sources from the Roku are providing 4K HDR (12 bit 4:2:2) 24 Hz to the Epson? I think Jack Ryan you mention is Amazon, what about Netflix and You Tube? Which Roku model do you have? Is there a new setup option in the Roku to specify 24 Hz?


I was using Display type as Auto Detect. There isn't 24Hz option. For same settings, Netflix gives only SDR. Perhaps Amazon started streaming in 24Hz? I am not sure. Below screen shots are what I am seeing for Prime and Netflix. I was using Roku P+
*Prime Video:*








*
Netflix*


----------



## simonk83

OrcusVaruna said:


> The one you picked out is a perfect one. That particular scene with the light shining on the minister of magic at the quidditch World Cup clips at a full 4000 nits.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I guess that's an extreme case though. I'd be interested in a sort of benchmark scene, where we know that if the white/black levels look good then the majority of other movies will. The outliers like that HP movie can't be catered for I guess (not without a separate setting like you mentioned).


----------



## OrcusVaruna

simonk83 said:


> I guess that's an extreme case though. I'd be interested in a sort of benchmark scene, where we know that if the white/black levels look good then the majority of other movies will. The outliers like that HP movie can't be catered for I guess (not without a separate setting like you mentioned).




That is a benchmark scene since it maxes out the 4000 nit mastering spec. Any 4000 nit mastered movie can theoretically have peak whites that high so you want to set for the extreme example so any scene in any 4000 nit movie is viewable. For something quick and easy since I rarely watch 4000 nit movies I tossed in Harpervision and toned down the contrast until the details in his face were visible and it was perfectly watchable. The reason I used Harpervision is because it raises mid tones significantly so when you drop the contrast way down it doesn’t make the image unwatchable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hifiheaven

dagameballa said:


> I'm waiting for the new epson pj to come out and on a google search found this. Looks like the new one is confirmed 4k 60hz hdr with 18gb hdmi speeds. https://www.epson.co.za/insights/article/epson-s-unveils-three-pro-uhd-projectors-at-ifa


I'm ready to purchase a new projector and the Epson 5040 is selling for a good price right now. However it seems that the reliability of this model is very poor. I'm willing to purchase the new model which will be announced this week but the specs look almost identical to be 5040. I don't want to pay an additional $1,000 for projector with no upgrades to native contrast or lumens.


----------



## DavidinGA

hifiheaven said:


> I'm ready to purchase a new projector and the Epson 5040 is selling for a good price right now. However it seems that the reliability of this model is very poor. I'm willing to purchase the new model which will be announced this week but the specs look almost identical to be 5040. I don't want to pay an additional $1,000 for projector with no upgrades to native contrast or lumens.


I'm also wanting to buy a 5040, but am seriously put off by the rampant power failure issue. Hoping the 5040 replacement will be close in price and a more reliable unit (plus upgrades of course!). 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## simonk83

satyab said:


> I was using Display type as Auto Detect. There isn't 24Hz option. For same settings, Netflix gives only SDR. Perhaps Amazon started streaming in 24Hz? I am not sure. Below screen shots are what I am seeing for Prime and Netflix. I was using Roku P+
> *Prime Video:*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Netflix*


Can anyone confirm the same with the ATV 4K? I assume so, but just checking as I'm probably going to pick one up when they release the update with Atmos support.


----------



## hifiheaven

DavidinGA said:


> I'm also wanting to buy a 5040, but am seriously put off by the rampant power failure issue. Hoping the 5040 replacement will be close in price and a more reliable unit (plus upgrades of course!).
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


According to the people at IFA, the Epson 5050 will be $3300. :-(


----------



## hatlesschimp

hifiheaven said:


> I'm ready to purchase a new projector and the Epson 5040 is selling for a good price right now. However it seems that the reliability of this model is very poor. I'm willing to purchase the new model which will be announced this week but the specs look almost identical to be 5040. I don't want to pay an additional $1,000 for projector with no upgrades to native contrast or lumens.


If it had the new 18gbs hdmi ports we will finally have full 4K HDR 60hz. Many people would be happy with that although the 4k js still not native. Sony has done it and if Epson has not then they could loose a lot of buyers. Although the price is a fair bit different, some buyers may have the extra dosh to make the jump.
So far the new Sony VPL-VW270es and VW570es are winners to me.

(Proud owner of the 5040ub)

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

hifiheaven said:


> According to the people at IFA, the Epson 5050 will be $3300. :-(


Eh I'll pass if it's that much lol... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

hifiheaven said:


> According to the people at IFA, the Epson 5050 will be $3300. :-(


 That's a lot to swallow with not too many differences reported vs 5040, I think I'll hang onto my 5040 if that's the case.


----------



## satyab

simonk83 said:


> Can anyone confirm the same with the ATV 4K? I assume so, but just checking as I'm probably going to pick one up when they release the update with Atmos support.


ATV 4K has bulk of options to choose w.r.t display type. You will able to get 4K HDR 24Hz without issues as shown in first screen shot. ATV 4K is safe bet in current set of streamers. I always use ATV 4K, the only reason I tried Roku P+ is for Atmos on Prime video.


----------



## simonk83

satyab said:


> ATV 4K has bulk of options to choose w.r.t display type. You will able to get 4K HDR 24Hz without issues as shown in first screen shot. ATV 4K is safe bet in current set of streamers. I always use ATV 4K, the only reason I tried Roku P+ is for Atmos on Prime video.




I did see this the other day though ...

https://reddit.com/r/appletv/comments/9bxo94/amazon_prime_video_on_appletv_now_plays_in_atmos/


----------



## simonk83

Well I went out and bought one today (ATV 4K). When setting it up it asked if I wanted to auto check for HDR. I said yes but lost the signal and it never recovered (it says it's supposed to auto switch back). I had to pull the plug.

I changed the setting manually to 4K HDR 24Hz and that seems to be working fine, but is there any downside to forcing it to that? Will it auto switch properly as long as I have the two match options enabled?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

simonk83 said:


> Can anyone confirm the same with the ATV 4K? I assume so, but just checking as I'm probably going to pick one up when they release the update with Atmos support.




I get 24hz hdr out of both Netflix and amazon on the ATV4K


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

simonk83 said:


> Well I went out and bought one today (ATV 4K). When setting it up it asked if I wanted to auto check for HDR. I said yes but lost the signal and it never recovered (it says it's supposed to auto switch back). I had to pull the plug.
> 
> I changed the setting manually to 4K HDR 24Hz and that seems to be working fine, but is there any downside to forcing it to that? Will it auto switch properly as long as I have the two match options enabled?




Yes because it will force convert everything to 24hz HDR. You want to set it to 4K60 SDR and enable frame and range matching and the ATV4K will automatically adjust range and frame rate when it is detected in the signal from the streaming company. Your chroma will be different since I’m sending the signal through my Linker but the format, output, and match content settings will be the same.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## simonk83

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes because it will force convert everything to 24hz HDR. You want to set it to 4K60 SDR and enable frame and range matching and the ATV4K will automatically adjust range and frame rate when it is detected in the signal from the streaming company. Your chroma will be different since I’m sending the signal through my Linker but the format, output, and match content settings will be the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Well that's the thing, the vast majority of my viewing is through Plex and is 24p content. I do watch a little streaming on this projector but not too much really. I just want it to switch between HDR and SDR appropriately, which is does seem to be doing.
I do notice the projector reports 4K for all content now though, even if it's 1080p.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

simonk83 said:


> Well that's the thing, the vast majority of my viewing is through Plex and is 24p content. I do watch a little streaming on this projector but not too much really. I just want it to switch between HDR and SDR appropriately, which is does seem to be doing.
> I do notice the projector reports 4K for all content now though, even if it's 1080p.



Yes it does scale to the max resolution of your display if it accepts that resolution, i.e. no resolution matching just range and frame rate. But I would not worry about that since the scaling algorithm & processor used by the ATV4K is excellent and the epson shines in its ability to reproduce a 4K signal even an up-converted one. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## kbarnes701

DavidinGA said:


> I'm also wanting to buy a 5040, but am seriously put off by the rampant power failure issue. Hoping the 5040 replacement will be close in price and a more reliable unit (plus upgrades of course!).
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


IKWYM, but....

First off, the issues are 'rampant' in this thread, but probably not in the real world. People have a problem - they come here to report it. People don't have a problem - they watch movies.

Also, I think it has to be put into perspective: some people, for example, drive cars. I bet most in this thread do. Now every year people get killed and maimed in cars. Would you therefore not buy a car because that happens? No - you assess the odds and the risks and the benefits against each other and come to the conclusion that the benefits outweigh the risks and the odds are, in any case, acceptably small. Same with the 5040 - it has fantastic benefits and a small, but genuine, risk attached to it. I am on my second unit having had the PSU problem. If this replacement unit failed, would I buy another 5040. Yes I would - because no other unit currently offers the same bang for the buck. Just a thought...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

kbarnes701 said:


> IKWYM, but....
> 
> 
> 
> First off, the issues are 'rampant' in this thread, but probably not in the real world. People have a problem - they come here to report it. People don't have a problem - they watch movies.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I think it has to be put into perspective: some people, for example, drive cars. I bet most in this thread do. Now every year people get killed and maimed in cars. Would you therefore not buy a car because that happens? No - you assess the odds and the risks and the benefits against each other and come to the conclusion that the benefits outweigh the risks and the odds are, in any case, acceptably small. Same with the 5040 - it has fantastic benefits and a small, but genuine, risk attached to it. I am on my second unit having had the PSU problem. If this replacement unit failed, would I buy another 5040. Yes I would - because no other unit currently offers the same bang for the buck. Just a thought...



The very transparent engineer I spoke with at length after my last psu failure back in March basically stated that the total failure rate for all problems is less then 5% (which is Epsons benchmark) but that the bulk of those failures is a psu related. So in essence the psu being a big issue and at the same time a small problem are both true. That also explains the disproportionate complaints in this thread revolving around the psu. Also, like other have said the engineer I spoke with also said the 2 year warranty is not a line in the sand for epson and I fully expect them to address the psu issue on a case by case basis once units start going out of warranty. The last thing the company wants to do is piss off the vocal enthusiast crowd which will flood forums and amazon reviews with negative comments if they are hung out to dry. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mr.G

simonk83 said:


> Well I went out and bought one today (ATV 4K). When setting it up it asked if I wanted to auto check for HDR. I said yes but lost the signal and it never recovered (it says it's supposed to auto switch back). I had to pull the plug.
> 
> I changed the setting manually to 4K HDR 24Hz and that seems to be working fine, but is there any downside to forcing it to that? Will it auto switch properly as long as I have the two match options enabled?


Question for anyone with Apple TV 4K and Epson 5040/4000 - has anyone successfully run the cable/display test? Clearly the Epsons support HDR10. The two times I've tried the test it's failed and I had set the ATV 4K manually. I suspect it's also checking for a full 18.2 Gbps bandwidth (hence the fail) but I've been told that's nonsense. 



> When you first connect your Apple TV 4K to a 4K television capable of HDR10 or Dolby Vision, you may be prompted to run a short display test for these formats. Follow the onscreen instructions to run the test, and confirm that you have a clear picture. If Apple TV 4K is unable to confirm that your television can display Dolby Vision or HDR10, it will automatically revert back to the mode it was previously using.
> 
> To confirm which video mode your Apple TV 4K is using, go to Settings > Video and Audio. From here, you can manually select a display format.


----------



## DavidinGA

OrcusVaruna said:


> The very transparent engineer I spoke with at length after my last psu failure back in March basically stated that the total failure rate for all problems is less then 5% (which is Epsons benchmark) but that the bulk of those failures is a psu related. So in essence the psu being a big issue and at the same time a small problem are both true. That also explains the disproportionate complaints in this thread revolving around the psu. Also, like other have said the engineer I spoke with also said the 2 year warranty is not a line in the sand for epson and I fully expect them to address the psu issue on a case by case basis once units start going out of warranty. The last thing the company wants to do is piss off the vocal enthusiast crowd which will flood forums and amazon reviews with negative comments if they are hung out to dry.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's my biggest concern/reservation - psu fails AFTER the warranty period ends and then you're SOL... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## --Sclaws

Guess it was inevitable. My 5040UB just f'ing died. Just stopped. Lens cover still open, no lights at all. No noise. +1 more to the list of users screwed by this projector.


----------



## DavidinGA

--Sclaws said:


> Guess it was inevitable. My 5040UB just f'ing died. Just stopped. Lens cover still open, no lights at all. No noise. +1 more to the list of users screwed by this projector.


No warranty left? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## azula

*Hello All, 


How do you all have your remotes set up? 

I'm guessing "Lens 1" button is for 16:9 and "Lens 2" button is 2:35.1 and "Memory" button would be for my HDR/SDR settings? *


----------



## --Sclaws

DavidinGA said:


> --Sclaws said:
> 
> 
> 
> Guess it was inevitable. My 5040UB just f'ing died. Just stopped. Lens cover still open, no lights at all. No noise. +1 more to the list of users screwed by this projector.
> 
> 
> 
> No warranty left?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yeah its still under warranty. I'm calling tomorrow (or Tuesday if they're not open) to arrange a replacement. I'm just annoyed that this happened. If less than 5% have the issue a ton of us should be buying lotto tickets.


----------



## DavidinGA

--Sclaws said:


> Yeah its still under warranty. I'm calling tomorrow (or Tuesday if they're not open) to arrange a replacement. I'm just annoyed that this happened. If less than 5% have the issue a ton of us should be buying lotto tickets.


Right. I thought I saw a poll on here where 40% of those who took the poll had a failed psu and some even had multiple failures...true? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Baratum

Good day, there was some kind of failure in the projector, the image was extinguished, the fan began to rustle loudly and two indicators turned on, unfortunately did not remember which ones, after about 2 minutes the projector turned off. In the projector menu where the status line writes 012400023632RO, there was no inscription before. The projector is still working normally, what could it be? The lamp's lifetime is still very small 127h. Thank you in advance. Sorry for the bad English, the interpreter translated.


----------



## --Sclaws

DavidinGA said:


> Right. I thought I saw a poll on here where 40% of those who took the poll had a failed psu and some even had multiple failures...true?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I recall a poll but don't know where the link is. The 5% I noted was mentioned somewhere in this thread/forum as being a general statement from Epson support about the reported failure rate.


----------



## Juiced46

DavidinGA said:


> Right. I thought I saw a poll on here where 40% of those who took the poll had a failed psu and some even had multiple failures...true?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk





--Sclaws said:


> I recall a poll but don't know where the link is. The 5% I noted was mentioned somewhere in this thread/forum as being a general statement from Epson support about the reported failure rate.


You also have to remember, that the poll done here is not accurate. Not everyone who owns this projector comes onto the forums at all. Most people that come here are looking for tech advice or to talk about what issues they have/had. 

Similar things happen on automotive car forums. To keep a long story short, I work for a large name German auto manufacturer. On the forums there is a common failure that everyone talks about or is worried about happening and they are developing aftermarket alternatives to prevent it. In actuality, our store has not seen 1 of these failures yet in the 4 years of production for this particular problem and we have alot of traffic. Our region has only seen a handful. But when you go on the forums, that is all you see....... 

My point is, it is common that forums make the issue "seem" more widespread then it really is.


----------



## Juiced46

hatlesschimp said:


> If it had the new 18gbs hdmi ports we will finally have full 4K HDR 60hz. Many people would be happy with that although the 4k js still not native. Sony has done it and if Epson has not then they could loose a lot of buyers. Although the price is a fair bit different, some buyers may have the extra dosh to make the jump.
> So far the new Sony VPL-VW270es and VW570es are winners to me.
> 
> (Proud owner of the 5040ub)
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk


I am not familiar with the Sony, but I think I read even though they can do 4K/60hz they still have limitations. Maybe limited to 8 bit? Its buried somewhere in this post. But I heard of people having issues.

I am just worried that, if Epson does make a 4K/60hz compatible unit that it still will not do 10-12bit. Time will tell. I love my 5040, but when the new unit finally does drop, I am going to wait it out a bit this time before purchasing. 



--Sclaws said:


> Guess it was inevitable. My 5040UB just f'ing died. Just stopped. Lens cover still open, no lights at all. No noise. +1 more to the list of users screwed by this projector.


That is strange, so when you try to power the projector the cover still opens up? If that is the case, then your power supply may not be the issue, as the unit would be 100% dead. Or is it possible that it just did not close the time prior when you shut it down?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> Right. I thought I saw a poll on here where 40% of those who took the poll had a failed psu and some even had multiple failures...true?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




As I said the engineer I spoke with stated the total failure rate is under 5% but a disproportionate number of that failure rate is psu issues. This makes sense as it explains the quantity of psu reported issues and it explains epsons response thus far. Epson is a huge company and the 5040 represents a very small part of overall sales. A power supply issue is just not going to register as an addressable concern for the company as a whole if the total failure rate is not outside the norm for their total expected failure rate on consumer level products which for most consumer electronics companies is around 5%. That being said I would be shocked if they fail to address psu failures past the two year warranty, I just wouldn’t expect some press release regarding it because it’s not a big issue in the grand scheme of things fo epson. 

As for the other poster on multiple failures, yes that was the case (I am on my 3rd unit total) as the bad batch of capacitors some how made it to repair facility and were potentially used in warranty replacements prior to the middle of March 2018. With my last replacement at the end of March, I was assured it had the new capacitors. I have not experienced any further issues and have put about 1500 hrs on this one thus far (none of my previous two made it past 500hrs). As you approach the end of your warranty period I would call and harass epson and try and get some notation on your account saying they will honor the warranty in the event of a psu failure. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## n4xxr76

I think someone posted about this earlier referencing the Roku but I’m getting HDR from Amazon streamed from my Xbox One X (no linker). So far I only see it on Jack Ryan....











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## n4xxr76

I also get HDR for The Grand Tour. So far, those are the only two I’ve found. 





n4xxr76 said:


> I think someone posted about this earlier referencing the Roku but I’m getting HDR from Amazon streamed from my Xbox One X (no linker). So far I only see it on Jack Ryan....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## --Sclaws

Juiced46 said:


> That is strange, so when you try to power the projector the cover still opens up? If that is the case, then your power supply may not be the issue, as the unit would be 100% dead. Or is it possible that it just did not close the time prior when you shut it down?



Sorry, that statement wasn't clear. The projector stopped while I was viewing it, meaning the lens cover never had a chance to close itself.


----------



## sddp

n4xxr76 said:


> I think someone posted about this earlier referencing the Roku but I’m getting HDR from Amazon streamed from my Xbox One X (no linker). So far I only see it on Jack Ryan....
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wait!
You mean to tell me with out all the extra doodads, you're getting 3840x2160
12 bit
BT.2020 AND HDR on top of it all, just by plugging in your XBOX 1X?

Clearly, there's something's wrong with your Epson


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> Wait!
> 
> You mean to tell me with out all the extra doodads, you're getting 3840x2160
> 
> 12 bit
> 
> BT.2020 AND HDR on top of it all, just by plugging in your XBOX 1X?
> 
> 
> 
> Clearly, there's something's wrong with your Epson




It’s at 24hz you only need the Linker for 60hz 4K 8bit hdr gaming. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## n4xxr76

sddp said:


> Wait!
> 
> You mean to tell me with out all the extra doodads, you're getting 3840x2160
> 
> 12 bit
> 
> BT.2020 AND HDR on top of it all, just by plugging in your XBOX 1X?
> 
> 
> 
> Clearly, there's something's wrong with your Epson




OrcusVaruna is correct. I was just pointing out that I’m not using a linker to avoid any confusion. It looks like Amazon is starting to release/stream some content @ 24hz. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

n4xxr76 said:


> OrcusVaruna is correct. I was just pointing out that I’m not using a linker to avoid any confusion. It looks like Amazon is starting to release/stream some content @ 24hz.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Now Netflix just needs to fix their HDR disaster xbone x app.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nefrina

OrcusVaruna said:


> As I said the engineer I spoke with stated the total failure rate is under 5% but a disproportionate number of that failure rate is psu issues. This makes sense as it explains the quantity of psu reported issues and it explains epsons response thus far. Epson is a huge company and the 5040 represents a very small part of overall sales. A power supply issue is just not going to register as an addressable concern for the company as a whole if the total failure rate is not outside the norm for their total expected failure rate on consumer level products which for most consumer electronics companies is around 5%. That being said I would be shocked if they fail to address psu failures past the two year warranty, I just wouldn’t expect some press release regarding it because it’s not a big issue in the grand scheme of things fo epson.
> 
> As for the other poster on multiple failures, yes that was the case (I am on my 3rd unit total) as the bad batch of capacitors some how made it to repair facility and were potentially used in warranty replacements prior to the middle of March 2018. With my last replacement at the end of March, I was assured it had the new capacitors. I have not experienced any further issues and have put about 1500 hrs on this one thus far (none of my previous two made it past 500hrs). As you approach the end of your warranty period I would call and harass epson and try and get some notation on your account saying they will honor the warranty in the event of a psu failure.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


reminds me of a similar problem with the subaru wrx sti (i'm sure some of you here are also gear-heads). the ej25 engine in that car is known for having an assortment of problems but it's really just the vocal minority on an enthusiast platform discussing the issues--similar to the 5040's power supply failure problem. although to be fair, subaru did just settle a lengthy class action lawsuit a few days ago for the above. i think i'll finally make the transition to whatever model replaces the 5040. i think my 2150 offers incredible performance so i can't wait to see what i've been missing this whole time. i really only want the upgrade for the memory lens shift for when i move to a 2.39 screen but all of the extras will be welcome too.


----------



## Iceman24

I haven't really found much on this. Can anyone tell me if the Epson 5040ub takes advantage of ARC in any way whatsoever. I bought a Monoprice HDMI fiber cable, which doesn't support ARC, which I figured is fine, but then I thought about CEC and whatever else may utilize ARC or something similar. I just wanted to ask directly about whether an HDMI cable not supporting ARC is fine, since PJ doesn't support it. Thanks.


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> I am not familiar with the Sony, but I think I read even though they can do 4K/60hz they still have limitations. Maybe limited to 8 bit? Its buried somewhere in this post. But I heard of people having issues.
> 
> 
> 
> I am just worried that, if Epson does make a 4K/60hz compatible unit that it still will not do 10-12bit. Time will tell. I love my 5040, but when the new unit finally does drop, I am going to wait it out a bit this time before purchasing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is strange, so when you try to power the projector the cover still opens up? If that is the case, then your power supply may not be the issue, as the unit would be 100% dead. Or is it possible that it just did not close the time prior when you shut it down?




If that’s true about the new Epson supporting the higher HDMI bandwidth but not supporting more than 8 bit HDR on a 4K 60hz signal, does that mean we would still need a Linker for the X1X?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juboy

n4xxr76 said:


> I think someone posted about this earlier referencing the Roku but I’m getting HDR from Amazon streamed from my Xbox One X (no linker). So far I only see it on Jack Ryan....



I've been watching Jack Ryan in 4K HDR from Amazon Fire TV using Rob's most recent settings (with very minor tweaks of my own) and it looks incredible, especially the CIA office scenes that are set at night. Usually use Orcus' settings for 'real-life' content but JR looks slightly better with Rob's to my eyes.


----------



## sddp

OrcusVaruna said:


> It’s at 24hz you only need the Linker for 60hz 4K 8bit hdr gaming.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is there THAT much of a difference if it was higher than 24hz?


----------



## n4xxr76

sddp said:


> Is there THAT much of a difference if it was higher than 24hz?




It would make a difference from 4K HDR down to SDR only due to the 5040 not having the 18gbps chipset. 24hz is better for us 5040 owners because of this. See chart below for reference. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

sddp said:


> OrcusVaruna said:
> 
> 
> 
> It’s at 24hz you only need the Linker for 60hz 4K 8bit hdr gaming.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Is there THAT much of a difference if it was higher than 24hz?
Click to expand...


For gaming YES its a huge difference as most games run at/up to 60FPS/HZ. The lowest you will see in some games is 30FPS. 24hz is very very bad for gaming


----------



## simonk83

For the guys using an Apple TV 4K with this projector, are you able to successfully complete the HDR test? I just lose signal and it never recovers.

If this doesn't actually make any difference (will Dolby Vision content still display correctly for example?) that's fine, just wanted to see if it's a problem at my end or not.

Thanks!


----------



## Juiced46

sddp said:


> Wait!
> You mean to tell me with out all the extra doodads, you're getting 3840x2160
> 12 bit
> BT.2020 AND HDR on top of it all, just by plugging in your XBOX 1X?
> 
> Clearly, there's something's wrong with your Epson


I am not sure why there is sarcasm. The Epson 5040 has ALWAYS worked properly with Amazon prime showing 4K in HDR, and 12 bit. It has been working like that since day one of the projector coming out. 4K/24hz 12 bit is an ACCEPTABLE signal for the Epson. When people talk about Linkers and such. That is for GAMING not streaming apps. For HDR gaming you need a 4K/60HZ 10-12bit signal which the Epson cannot handle. The Linker tricks it and you get 4K/60hz but 8 bit which causes some banding, but it works well

For Gaming you need 4K/60hz so a Linker is needed.
Streaming apps and UHD Blu Ray(on Xbox One X or S) 4k/24hz 12bit HDR works with no add ons needed. 

From my testing and I do not know how the Xbox handles it but, the Amazon Prime app actually is outputting in 4K60hz. Somehow (without a Linker) it is being converted to 4K/24hz HDR, the same goes for UHD Blue Rays through the Xbox, I am not sure if the Console is doing the conversion or the Epson.

Furthermore, Netflix (on xbox) also outputs at 4k/60hz, but it will not convert unless you use a Linker. I have tested this and have made many posts with screenshots about it as well in this thread....



JewDaddy said:


> If that’s true about the new Epson supporting the higher HDMI bandwidth but not supporting more than 8 bit HDR on a 4K 60hz signal, does that mean we would still need a Linker for the X1X?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is all just speculation going through my mind. I have no idea what they are going to do. But IF they implemented a 18gbps chipset, then no linker would be needed.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> Is there THAT much of a difference if it was higher than 24hz?




Yes it does the HDMI chipset in the 5040 can not handle 4K 10&12bit hdr at more then 30hz 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

When do you think we can we expect to hear news about the 5050 at Cedia?

Also, you guys see the new 4K ISF Certified Screens from Monoprice? They even have a motorized in-ceiling version. Too bad they are all 16:9. Would be interesting to see how they compare to Silver Tickets matte white screen.
https://www.monoprice.com/pages/4k_projection_screens


----------



## sddp

Juiced46 said:


> I am not sure why there is sarcasm. The Epson 5040 has ALWAYS worked properly with Amazon prime showing 4K in HDR, and 12 bit. It has been working like that since day one of the projector coming out. 4K/24hz 12 bit is an ACCEPTABLE signal for the Epson. When people talk about Linkers and such. That is for GAMING not streaming apps. For HDR gaming you need a 4K/60HZ 10-12bit signal which the Epson cannot handle. The Linker tricks it and you get 4K/60hz but 8 bit which causes some banding, but it works well
> 
> For Gaming you need 4K/60hz so a Linker is needed.
> Streaming apps and UHD Blu Ray(on Xbox One X or S) 4k/24hz 12bit HDR works with no add ons needed.
> 
> From my testing and I do not know how the Xbox handles it but, the Amazon Prime app actually is outputting in 4K60hz. Somehow (without a Linker) it is being converted to 4K/24hz HDR, the same goes for UHD Blue Rays through the Xbox, I am not sure if the Console is doing the conversion or the Epson.
> 
> Furthermore, Netflix (on xbox) also outputs at 4k/60hz, but it will not convert unless you use a Linker. I have tested this and have made many posts with screenshots about it as well in this thread....
> 
> 
> 
> That is all just speculation going through my mind. I have no idea what they are going to do. But IF they implemented a 18gbps chipset, then no linker would be needed.





Didn't mean to offend, but I've reading this thread since August 2016 and got mine on black Friday of 2016. And after a gazillion post of so many limitations and detailed post on how to get around the limitations, I was (well not so much now) shocked that one could get full working flawless HDR in 12bit bt.2020. I was under the impression a linker and hours of manipulations was necessary to get all that.


I stand corrected.


Don't get me wrong, I love this projector. I had spend almost $4,000 on a Mitsubishi 92" DLP 3D and it does not do anything close to what this $3,000 5040 can do, not to mention one can go crazy with screen sizes.


It's that like very one, I'd like to have my cake and eat it to. Meaning I wanted ALL of the goodies possible with out spending hours and hours tinkering/reading and extra $ to trick it to do this and that.


I do use mine with an XBOX One X. Either Star Wars Battlefront II or Blu Rayy 3D films.


So I take it that if I got a linker, I would see better gameplay on the XBOX?


----------



## satyab

simonk83 said:


> For the guys using an Apple TV 4K with this projector, are you able to successfully complete the HDR test? I just lose signal and it never recovers.
> 
> If this doesn't actually make any difference (will Dolby Vision content still display correctly for example?) that's fine, just wanted to see if it's a problem at my end or not.
> 
> Thanks!


Nope. Tried several times. Probably apple trying to send 4K 60Hz signal. Test shouldn't matter, as Epson is receiving HDR signal with 4K SDR 60Hz and Match content on for both range and Frame rate.


----------



## Juiced46

sddp said:


> Didn't mean to offend, but I've reading this thread since August 2016 and got mine on black Friday of 2016. And after a gazillion post of so many limitations and detailed post on how to get around the limitations, I was (well not so much now) shocked that one could get full working flawless HDR in 12bit bt.2020. I was under the impression a linker and hours of manipulations was necessary to get all that.
> 
> 
> I stand corrected.
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love this projector. I had spend almost $4,000 on a Mitsubishi 92" DLP 3D and it does not do anything close to what this $3,000 5040 can do, not to mention one can go crazy with screen sizes.
> 
> 
> It's that like very one, I'd like to have my cake and eat it to. Meaning I wanted ALL of the goodies possible with out spending hours and hours tinkering/reading and extra $ to trick it to do this and that.
> 
> 
> I do use mine with an XBOX One X. Either Star Wars Battlefront II or Blu Rayy 3D films.
> 
> 
> So I take it that if I got a linker, I would see better gameplay on the XBOX?


Not a problem, no offense taken. 

This thread can be VERY overwhelming as there are thousands of pages and different topics within this monster of a thread to keep up with it gets extremely confusing. I hear ya. 

When I first got my 5040, I could NOT get 4K HDR to work with Amazon Prime at ALL. Then silly me realized that the titles are specific to UHD or not. I was selecting NON UHD at first which is why it was not working. I.E Grand Tour. Once I figured that out. HDR and 4K worked flawless with no changes to make it work (not including the picture calibrations) But that is a different topic. So out of the box Amazon Prime and Blu Ray UHD all work correctly with no add ons needed to get 4K HDR to work. Netflix is a different story.....(Linker is needed for 4K) 

As far as the Linker vs No Linker and better "gameplay" Now with the way you have it, you are playing in an upscaled 4K resolution with SDR video and still at 60hz. If you add a Linker, the benefit you will get is Native 4K (to be honest you cannot tell the difference) but the biggest gain is the ability to have HDR. HDR is only for enhanced games that support it. The flaw with it is, since the Epson cannot handle 10-12bit, you are restricted to 8 bit only with HDR. Its not bad by any means at all. You just will (at times) see some banding which is not game changing. So, you will not see a framerate bump, but only benefit from the addition of HDR. 

I have posted SDR vs HDR comparison pictures in this thread. Once HDR is calibrated properly, I feel the $200 investment for the Linker was worth it. 

The Linker is VERY easy to setup and all settings are also posted all of this thread. Takes about 2 minutes to plug in and enter the settings.

The ONLY downside to the Linker I have found is. 

The Linker FORCES 4K/60hz 8 bit. 

So now, my gaming is working great. When I watch a Blu Ray or Amazon Prime, my Linker forces 8 bit and I lost the 12 bit. My options are deal with it, OR unplug the Linker when I watch movies....... I have not found a way around this (which there must be) But its not really a huge deal for me.


----------



## simonk83

satyab said:


> Nope. Tried several times. Probably apple trying to send 4K 60Hz signal. Test shouldn't matter, as Epson is receiving HDR signal with 4K SDR 60Hz and Match content on for both range and Frame rate.


----------



## simonk83

Juiced46 said:


> Not a problem, no offense taken.
> 
> 
> 
> This thread can be VERY overwhelming as there are thousands of pages and different topics within this monster of a thread to keep up with it gets extremely confusing. I hear ya.
> 
> 
> 
> When I first got my 5040, I could NOT get 4K HDR to work with Amazon Prime at ALL. Then silly me realized that the titles are specific to UHD or not. I was selecting NON UHD at first which is why it was not working. I.E Grand Tour. Once I figured that out. HDR and 4K worked flawless with no changes to make it work (not including the picture calibrations) But that is a different topic. So out of the box Amazon Prime and Blu Ray UHD all work correctly with no add ons needed to get 4K HDR to work. Netflix is a different story.....(Linker is needed for 4K)
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the Linker vs No Linker and better "gameplay" Now with the way you have it, you are playing in an upscaled 4K resolution with SDR video and still at 60hz. If you add a Linker, the benefit you will get is Native 4K (to be honest you cannot tell the difference) but the biggest gain is the ability to have HDR. HDR is only for enhanced games that support it. The flaw with it is, since the Epson cannot handle 10-12bit, you are restricted to 8 bit only with HDR. Its not bad by any means at all. You just will (at times) see some banding which is not game changing. So, you will not see a framerate bump, but only benefit from the addition of HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I have posted SDR vs HDR comparison pictures in this thread. Once HDR is calibrated properly, I feel the $200 investment for the Linker was worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> The Linker is VERY easy to setup and all settings are also posted all of this thread. Takes about 2 minutes to plug in and enter the settings.
> 
> 
> 
> The ONLY downside to the Linker I have found is.
> 
> 
> 
> The Linker FORCES 4K/60hz 8 bit.
> 
> 
> 
> So now, my gaming is working great. When I watch a Blu Ray or Amazon Prime, my Linker forces 8 bit and I lost the 12 bit. My options are deal with it, OR unplug the Linker when I watch movies....... I have not found a way around this (which there must be) But its not really a huge deal for me.




Presumably you're watching your blurays and Amazon on the game console? I got around it by only hooking the Linker up to the console itself, but then I watch all my video content from a different device anyway.


----------



## Juiced46

simonk83 said:


> Presumably you're watching your blurays and Amazon on the game console? I got around it by only hooking the Linker up to the console itself, but then I watch all my video content from a different device anyway.



Correct, all Blu Rays and streaming apps I do through the console. I do not have a dedicated Blu Ray player, Apple TV, Roku ETC for movies. I use the Xbox One X for everything aside from cable TV watching.

I believe if I had the wireless app for the Linker, I can bypass/pass through it so the Linker does nothing. However, I really had no need to purchase the extra stuff for that as my Linker and back of my AVR is very easily accessible (its in a seperate room and open behind it) that I just unplug it quick if I want 4K/ HDR 12 bit movies/streaming.


----------



## simonk83

Juiced46 said:


> Correct, all Blu Rays and streaming apps I do through the console. I do not have a dedicated Blu Ray player, Apple TV, Roku ETC for movies. I use the Xbox One X for everything aside from cable TV watching.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe if I had the wireless app for the Linker, I can bypass/pass through it so the Linker does nothing. However, I really had no need to purchase the extra stuff for that as my Linker and back of my AVR is very easily accessible (its in a seperate room and open behind it) that I just unplug it quick if I want 4K/ HDR 12 bit movies/streaming.




While we're talking about the Linker and gaming, I've been having a problem (PS4 Pro if that matters) where I lose the picture on the display every so often. The sound still plays but the screen just blacks out. Often if I hit the button to go to the home screen I get the picture back (that may just be coincidence) and it'll usually happen a few times in a row and then come good for a while.

Has anyone else seen this? I'm assuming it's a Linker issue...


----------



## Juiced46

simonk83 said:


> While we're talking about the Linker and gaming, I've been having a problem (PS4 Pro if that matters) where I lose the picture on the display every so often. The sound still plays but the screen just blacks out. Often if I hit the button to go to the home screen I get the picture back (that may just be coincidence) and it'll usually happen a few times in a row and then come good for a while.
> 
> Has anyone else seen this? I'm assuming it's a Linker issue...


What firmware are you running on the Linker?

Also, what video settings on the Pro?

I have no screen dropouts on my PS4 PRO using the Linker


----------



## simonk83

Juiced46 said:


> What firmware are you running on the Linker?
> 
> Also, what video settings on the Pro?
> 
> I have no screen dropouts on my PS4 PRO using the Linker


I can't remember the firmware to be honest, I'll have to check when I get a chance, but it would be the same as whatever is in the post somewhere in the depths of this thread with all the settings to use


----------



## raf77

satyab said:


> Nope. Tried several times. Probably apple trying to send 4K 60Hz signal. Test shouldn't matter, as Epson is receiving HDR signal with 4K SDR 60Hz and Match content on for both range and Frame rate.


Switch to 4k hdr 24hz and you will pass the test.


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> The ONLY downside to the Linker I have found is.
> 
> 
> 
> The Linker FORCES 4K/60hz 8 bit.
> 
> 
> 
> So now, my gaming is working great. When I watch a Blu Ray or Amazon Prime, my Linker forces 8 bit and I lost the 12 bit. My options are deal with it, OR unplug the Linker when I watch movies....... I have not found a way around this (which there must be) But its not really a huge deal for me.



Hey Juiced. I think your best bet when watching movies to keep the 12 bit is what I have to do with my Linker anytime I want to watch Directv or use my PC in 4K. The EDID switch on the Linker itself has three options. I’m assuming you have it in the middle which is the “custom” setting. Try moving the switch to the “sink” setting so that it lets whatever the source you’re trying to watch, send that signal without the Linker messing with it. You may have already tried it but it’s worth a shot if you haven’t. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## waynejs

Hey Juiced,

Did you ever try the linker settings posted by Mauddib a while back? I have the latest firmware and used the exact settings he posted and the linker doesn't force 60Khz/8bit when I play blu-ray movies on my Xbox One S. 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-386.html#post55124984




Juiced46 said:


> Not a problem, no offense taken.
> 
> This thread can be VERY overwhelming as there are thousands of pages and different topics within this monster of a thread to keep up with it gets extremely confusing. I hear ya.
> 
> When I first got my 5040, I could NOT get 4K HDR to work with Amazon Prime at ALL. Then silly me realized that the titles are specific to UHD or not. I was selecting NON UHD at first which is why it was not working. I.E Grand Tour. Once I figured that out. HDR and 4K worked flawless with no changes to make it work (not including the picture calibrations) But that is a different topic. So out of the box Amazon Prime and Blu Ray UHD all work correctly with no add ons needed to get 4K HDR to work. Netflix is a different story.....(Linker is needed for 4K)
> 
> As far as the Linker vs No Linker and better "gameplay" Now with the way you have it, you are playing in an upscaled 4K resolution with SDR video and still at 60hz. If you add a Linker, the benefit you will get is Native 4K (to be honest you cannot tell the difference) but the biggest gain is the ability to have HDR. HDR is only for enhanced games that support it. The flaw with it is, since the Epson cannot handle 10-12bit, you are restricted to 8 bit only with HDR. Its not bad by any means at all. You just will (at times) see some banding which is not game changing. So, you will not see a framerate bump, but only benefit from the addition of HDR.
> 
> I have posted SDR vs HDR comparison pictures in this thread. Once HDR is calibrated properly, I feel the $200 investment for the Linker was worth it.
> 
> The Linker is VERY easy to setup and all settings are also posted all of this thread. Takes about 2 minutes to plug in and enter the settings.
> 
> The ONLY downside to the Linker I have found is.
> 
> The Linker FORCES 4K/60hz 8 bit.
> 
> So now, my gaming is working great. When I watch a Blu Ray or Amazon Prime, my Linker forces 8 bit and I lost the 12 bit. My options are deal with it, OR unplug the Linker when I watch movies....... I have not found a way around this (which there must be) But its not really a huge deal for me.


----------



## GoCubsGo36

After buying this used a couple weeks back, I have attempted a deep dive of this thread to get caught up.

First and foremost, I just want to give everyone props on this thread. So much good info throughout that has helped me calibrate, understand features, and get me so much further than if I were trying to do this on my own. You guys are fantastic.

With that being said, I have been looking to get either the Nvidia Shield or the apple 4ktv and want to make sure I have some things straight. I have a netflix account with UHD and want the most out of it. I know its been talked about plenty but want to just summarize it all to make sure its correct.

Netflix with both of these cannot send true UHD and HDR at the same time to the Epson 5040 UBE. Shield and ATV4K can be forced to 4k 24HZ allowing you to get HDR. but you wont get the title showing both in the netflix menu but the projector will show that its getting a 4k signal because the ATV4k and Shield are upscaling the image to the projector. This is due to Netflix only having content in 4k @ 60 hz while the epson can not handle this if HDR is to be used. Essentially you must choose between UHD without HDR or 1080 HDR with 4k upscalling from the streaming box. The only fix here is on Netflix's end to change the framerate from 60 hz to 24 hz to allow this work.

Amazon DOES allow for 4k and HDR as 4k 24hz HDR is supported.


Another note is the used projector that I bought was the 5040UBE. Way earlier in the thread, it was mentioned that the wireless feature for the UBE can handle higher bandwith. Will this help at all getting netflix to support both or does that not matter because the limitation of the projectors chip of 10 gb itself (I think this is the answer but want to verify).


----------



## ccotenj

^ 



re: wireless. nope.


note that the wireless option works via IR. and it has to be placed in front of the projector. and i find it hard to believe that there isn't some compression going on, since they state in the manual they throw away the color information if the connection isn't solid.


imo, the wireless transmitter is a solution in search of a problem.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

ccotenj said:


> ^
> 
> 
> 
> re: wireless. nope.
> 
> 
> note that the wireless option works via IR. and it has to be placed in front of the projector. and i find it hard to believe that there isn't some compression going on, since they state in the manual they throw away the color information if the connection isn't solid.
> 
> 
> imo, the wireless transmitter is a solution in search of a problem.




I can not see ANY difference between hard wire and transmitter (I checked ad nauseam after I bought the projector just to make sure I didn’t light $3000 on fire). Granted I have direct line of sight and about 10’ for the signal to travel and always have 100% signal strength. The wireless for me (I am an apartment dweller) is mandatory for my use case. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

GoCubsGo36 said:


> After buying this used a couple weeks back, I have attempted a deep dive of this thread to get caught up.
> 
> 
> 
> First and foremost, I just want to give everyone props on this thread. So much good info throughout that has helped me calibrate, understand features, and get me so much further than if I were trying to do this on my own. You guys are fantastic.
> 
> 
> 
> With that being said, I have been looking to get either the Nvidia Shield or the apple 4ktv and want to make sure I have some things straight. I have a netflix account with UHD and want the most out of it. I know its been talked about plenty but want to just summarize it all to make sure its correct.
> 
> 
> 
> Netflix with both of these cannot send true UHD and HDR at the same time to the Epson 5040 UBE. Shield and ATV4K can be forced to 4k 24HZ allowing you to get HDR. but you wont get the title showing both in the netflix menu but the projector will show that its getting a 4k signal because the ATV4k and Shield are upscaling the image to the projector. This is due to Netflix only having content in 4k @ 60 hz while the epson can not handle this if HDR is to be used. Essentially you must choose between UHD without HDR or 1080 HDR with 4k upscalling from the streaming box. The only fix here is on Netflix's end to change the framerate from 60 hz to 24 hz to allow this work.
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon DOES allow for 4k and HDR as 4k 24hz HDR is supported.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another note is the used projector that I bought was the 5040UBE. Way earlier in the thread, it was mentioned that the wireless feature for the UBE can handle higher bandwith. Will this help at all getting netflix to support both or does that not matter because the limitation of the projectors chip of 10 gb itself (I think this is the answer but want to verify).




I’m confused Netflix on the ATV 4K supports 24hz content natively and will automatically switch if you enable range and frame matching. In Netflix if I go to a 4K show it will state 4K.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> Hey Juiced. I think your best bet when watching movies to keep the 12 bit is what I have to do with my Linker anytime I want to watch Directv or use my PC in 4K. The EDID switch on the Linker itself has three options. I’m assuming you have it in the middle which is the “custom” setting. Try moving the switch to the “sink” setting so that it lets whatever the source you’re trying to watch, send that signal without the Linker messing with it. You may have already tried it but it’s worth a shot if you haven’t.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I totally forgot about that switch and to be honest, never knew what it did. It has always been set to the middle. Tomorrow I will set it to Sink and see what it does. Thanks for the tip. If that solves my issue it will definitely be a nice improvement without having to unplug it anymore. If that does fix it I cannot believe I have been running it that way since late 2017 lol 



waynejs said:


> Hey Juiced,
> 
> Did you ever try the linker settings posted by Mauddib a while back? I have the latest firmware and used the exact settings he posted and the linker doesn't force 60Khz/8bit when I play blu-ray movies on my Xbox One S.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-386.html#post55124984


Actually, yes, I am running his exact settings. The only difference is I do not use the Bluetooth app. Not sure if that makes a difference. Also like stated above, maybe his EDID is set to sink where mine is not. I am going to test it tomorrow night. Also, I know for sure Amazon with the Linker is giving me 4K/60 8 bit. I could be wrong though about Blu Rays, I will have to re check, its been a while. More testing tomorrow.....


----------



## JewDaddy

Juiced46 said:


> I totally forgot about that switch and to be honest, never knew what it did. It has always been set to the middle. Tomorrow I will set it to Sink and see what it does. Thanks for the tip. If that solves my issue it will definitely be a nice improvement without having to unplug it anymore. If that does fix it I cannot believe I have been running it that way since late 2017 lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, yes, I am running his exact settings. The only difference is I do not use the Bluetooth app. Not sure if that makes a difference. Also like stated above, maybe his EDID is set to sink where mine is not. I am going to test it tomorrow night. Also, I know for sure Amazon with the Linker is giving me 4K/60 8 bit. I could be wrong though about Blu Rays, I will have to re check, its been a while. More testing tomorrow.....




Ha! I know the feeling brotha. I didn’t even think about the switch when I was having all my issues with using a PC and Directv. You’ve been a huge help to all of us so I hope I can actually help you for once. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## birdztudio

Sorry if this been asked as I didn’t come here very often, what’s the latest FW? And where can I download it? thank you guys


----------



## Viche

ALERT!

Epson has announced the Epson Pro Cinema 4050 4K PRO-UHD Projector with an improved version of the company's advanced pixel-shifting technology, HDR compatibility, and a substantially reduced price from the Pro Cinema 6040UB it replaces. 

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro-Cinema-4050-4K-PRO-UHD.htm?em

Note:
Specs list it as 100 lumens less than the 5040 and only 200:000:1 Contrast Ratio
No mention of HDMI bandwith 
No price mentioned in the article. Comparing it to the 6040 in price seems a little underhanded.

Please tell me this isn’t the replacement for the 5040 and that there will be a 5050 with more light for HDR and better contrast ratio. 

I’ve been waiting so long


----------



## DavidinGA

Viche said:


> ALERT!
> 
> Epson has announced the Epson Pro Cinema 4050 4K PRO-UHD Projector with an improved version of the company's advanced pixel-shifting technology, HDR compatibility, and a substantially reduced price from the Pro Cinema 6040UB it replaces.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro-Cinema-4050-4K-PRO-UHD.htm?em
> 
> Note:
> Specs list it as 100 lumens less than the 5040 and only 200:000:1 Contrast Ratio
> No mention of HDMI bandwith
> No price mentioned in the article. Comparing it to the 6040 in price seems a little underhanded.
> 
> Please tell me this isn’t the replacement for the 5040 and that there will be a 5050 with more light for HDR and better contrast ratio.
> 
> I’ve been waiting so long


And it still comes with an extra lamp, so that means it's overpriced to begin with imo

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

Price is $2399, so yes, less than the 6040, but same is a 5040.

Also, “HDR10 playback support at 24fps.” I’m assuming we’re still stuck at 10 Gbps?

What happened to the European models that were announced that seemed better than this? 

https://www.highdefdigest.com/news/show/Epson/cedia-2018/4K/hdr/Projectors/epson-details-pro-cinema-4050-4k-prouhd-projector-with-hdr/42492


----------



## Viche

I know this is kind of off-topic, but of interest to a lot of readers in this thread. I wonder if these two features mean that the 4050 get full DCI – P3 color at 2400 lumens, or if a light reducing filter will be required: 

L*a*b* Ultra Wide Color Gamut - delivers 100% of the 3-dimensional DCI-P3 color gamut4, the digital cinema standard, with 50% wider color gamut than Rec. 709

100% Balanced Color and White Brightness - 2,400 lumens of color and 2,400 lumens of white brightness3 for vibrant, rich color


----------



## shoeboo

Viche said:


> I know this is kind of off-topic, but of interest to a lot of readers in this thread. I wonder if these two features mean that the 4050 get full DCI – P3 color at 2400 lumens, or if a light reducing filter will be required:
> 
> L*a*b* Ultra Wide Color Gamut - delivers 100% of the 3-dimensional DCI-P3 color gamut4, the digital cinema standard, with 50% wider color gamut than Rec. 709
> 
> 100% Balanced Color and White Brightness - 2,400 lumens of color and 2,400 lumens of white brightness3 for vibrant, rich color


I doubt they got away from the color filter, Epson has used the full lumen color output spec for awhile as a dig against DLP projectors with a white segment in their color wheel. The white segment boosts lumen output at the expense of color output. 
The 4050 seems like a successor to the 4040 which doesn't have the ultrablack moniker. I would expect they would still release something in the 5050ub/6050ub range back towards the original asking price for 5040ub/6040ub. 

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk


----------



## hifiheaven

shoeboo said:


> I doubt they got away from the color filter, Epson has used the full lumen color output spec for awhile as a dig against DLP projectors with a white segment in their color wheel. The white segment boosts lumen output at the expense of color output.
> The 4050 seems like a successor to the 4040 which doesn't have the ultrablack moniker. I would expect they would still release something in the 5050ub/6050ub range back towards the original asking price for 5040ub/6040ub.
> 
> Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk


According to those who attended IFA, the Epson 5050 will be priced at $3,300 upon release.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Viche said:


> Price is $2399, so yes, less than the 6040, but same is a 5040.
> 
> Also, “HDR10 playback support at 24fps.” I’m assuming we’re still stuck at 10 Gbps?
> 
> What happened to the European models that were announced that seemed better than this?
> 
> https://www.highdefdigest.com/news/show/Epson/cedia-2018/4K/hdr/Projectors/epson-details-pro-cinema-4050-4k-prouhd-projector-with-hdr/42492


I bet 5050/6050 announcement coming today from Epson at CEDIA.


----------



## DRaven72

Viche said:


> I know this is kind of off-topic, but of interest to a lot of readers in this thread. I wonder if these two features mean that the 4050 get full DCI – P3 color at 2400 lumens, or if a light reducing filter will be required:
> 
> L*a*b* Ultra Wide Color Gamut - delivers 100% of the 3-dimensional DCI-P3 color gamut4, the digital cinema standard, with 50% wider color gamut than Rec. 709
> 
> 100% Balanced Color and White Brightness - 2,400 lumens of color and 2,400 lumens of white brightness3 for vibrant, rich color


They said nothing about upgrading to the new 18Gbps HDMI. Or 4K/60fps HDR, or HLG. Their is a $800 difference between it and the 4000 right now. The only thing I see different is the "supposedly" better contrast.

And looking at their pricing, better pull their head out of their ass. They raised prices and are not true 4K or added an updated HDMI chipset? Seriously, they want me to just save my money and move over to JVC?

And please don't come in here backing these asses. It's not "new" tech. It's just newer build of old tech. If they put the newer chipset it would have at least been worth a look. 

Playing games lately I am hitting the current chipsets limitation with the banding and lower color output. Why can't I get [email protected] HDR with at least 10s bit 4:2:2 Epson? Why always reverting back to 8 bit 4:2:0 ? (recently discovered this)

18 Gbps chipset would have taken care of the above issue. Yet Epson raises the price for better contrast. Hello $3000+ forum. If I am going to be this close to $3000 I might as well save and go JVC N5 with native 4K and quit pretending to enjoy this faux/cheap bull****. 

That's my opinion. Don't agree fine. I did't take my own advice. Never go cheap on your display, you use it more than your $25K+ vehicle you use for 2 hours a day. Never again. What's 5k-6K on something you use more than a vehicle?

Sorry about rant, frustrated they couldn't at least put out a native 4K to under cut JVC and Sony. :frown:


----------



## DavidinGA

hifiheaven said:


> According to those who attended IFA, the Epson 5050 will be priced at $3,300 upon release.


Better have some killer specs at that price...

That also probably means to not expect the 5040 prices to drop anymore anytime soon.


----------



## Viche

shoeboo said:


> I doubt they got away from the color filter, Epson has used the full lumen color output spec for awhile as a dig against DLP projectors with a white segment in their color wheel. The white segment boosts lumen output at the expense of color output.
> The 4050 seems like a successor to the 4040 which doesn't have the ultrablack moniker. I would expect they would still release something in the 5050ub/6050ub range back towards the original asking price for 5040ub/6040ub.
> 
> Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk





hifiheaven said:


> According to those who attended IFA, the Epson 5050 will be priced at $3,300 upon release.





WynsWrld98 said:


> I bet 5050/6050 announcement coming today from Epson at CEDIA.



I hope you're right. It's obviously an upgrade to the 4040. Just strange that they would compare the 4050 price to that of the 6040 if they plan to come out with at 6040 successor.... unless they 4050 takes the place of the 5040/6040 and they 5050/6050 is enough of a step forward to warrant it being called more than just an upgrade to the previous models.


----------



## --Sclaws

DRaven72 said:


> Never go cheap on your display, you use it more than your $25K+ vehicle you use for 2 hours a day. Never again. What's 5k-6K on something you use more than a vehicle?
> 
> Sorry about rant, frustrated they couldn't at least put out a native 4K to under cut JVC and Sony. :frown:


I totally understand your rant, but wanted to thank you for the "display vs car" comparison...I can't wait to try that on my wife.


----------



## DRaven72

--Sclaws said:


> I totally understand your rant, but wanted to thank you for the "display vs car" comparison...I can't wait to try that on my wife.


You have to say it with a stern, very serious face to work. lol "Just think about it before saying no. We spend more on a personal transportation unit to get us to work, rather than something we ACTUALLY enjoy using multiple hours a day! Does that make sense to you? Why shouldn't we have the best for our personal entertainment?" It works.

If you have kids: "We have to save for the kids college, this isn't important." You "College? Worst investment idea ever. Federal loans make them stay in the courses to get said degree and teach them about debt responsibility. Makes THEM feel like they accomplished something and didn't cost us 8 years of college for a 4 year bachelor degree because they "changed their mind"." 

I got you covered guys. :grin:


----------



## NetViper

DRaven72 said:


> You have to say it with a stern, very serious face to work. lol "Just think about it before saying no. We spend more on a personal transportation unit to get us to work, rather than something we ACTUALLY enjoy using multiple hours a day! Does that make sense to you? Why shouldn't we have the best for our personal entertainment?" It works.
> 
> If you have kids: "We have to save for the kids college, this isn't important." You "College? Worst investment idea ever. Federal loans make them stay in the courses to get said degree and teach them about debt responsibility. Makes THEM feel like they accomplished something and didn't cost us 8 years of college for a 4 year bachelor degree because they "changed their mind"."
> 
> I got you covered guys. :grin:


Can’t see how that will work. I use the projector maybe 2-4 hours a week. My living room Oled is the one that gets the 4 hrs a day.


----------



## Viche

Full specs of 4050:


https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...Advanced-3-Chip-Design-and-HDR/p/V11H932120MB


Looks like it does have the color filter, and also the auto iris. So basically this is the 5040 with less lumens and lower contrast ratio, but with improved E-shift (and/or whatever HDR2 is). Did I miss anything?


This might be a good option in a couple years for people wanting to spend under $1800 for a fauxK projector.


----------



## DavidinGA

Viche said:


> Full specs of 4050:
> 
> 
> https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...Advanced-3-Chip-Design-and-HDR/p/V11H932120MB
> 
> 
> Looks like it does have the color filter, and also the auto iris. So basically this is the 5040 with less lumens and lower contrast ratio, but with improved E-shift (and/or whatever HDR2 is). Did I miss anything?
> 
> 
> This might be a good option in a couple years for people wanting to spend under $1800 for a fauxK projector.



So it's a HC4000 w/ auto iris


----------



## Viche

DavidinGA said:


> So it's a HC4000 w/ auto iris


Does Epson claim the HC4000 has 2400 lumens, same native CR as the 4050,4K E-Shift, 15-elemen glass lens, powered lens/aspect ratio control? 

Remember the 4050 also claims to have HDR2 and improved FauxK, whatever that might be.


Edit: Just noticed that Epson's page does not list Lens Memory for CIH installations like Projector Central does. Hopefully PC was mistaken, and this truly is just an update to the HC4000 with the 5050/6050 to come.


----------



## Kothoga

Still no 5040 replacement? Guess I'm going JVC.


----------



## hifiheaven

Kothoga said:


> Still no 5040 replacement? Guess I'm going JVC.


It is coming. However it will be priced at $3,300. Not sure I want to pay that for a projector whose native contrast will most likely be no better than 6000:1.


----------



## evilmonstertruk

hifiheaven said:


> It is coming. However it will be priced at $3,300. Not sure I want to pay that for a projector whose native contrast will most likely be no better than 6000:1.


Yea it looks like the 4050 is in the 5040s place and the 5050 will be a higher tier. So I hope the 5050 brings it because its at JVC level then.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

hifiheaven said:


> It is coming. However it will be priced at $3,300. Not sure I want to pay that for a projector whose native contrast will most likely be no better than 6000:1.


And, is it worth 40%+ more than the current 5040...? I personally don't think so.... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## hifiheaven

DavidinGA said:


> And, is it worth 40%+ more than the current 5040...? I personally don't think so....
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I agree.


----------



## Jameshtx

I wouldn’t pay more for a 4K enhancement then what I paid on my 5040. If I am, it better have native 4K


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MAZMAN808

Is anyone gonna ask them if they fixed the psu board, or whatever the problems were with the 40 series?
If not, ill be going jvc


----------



## hifiheaven

MAZMAN808 said:


> Is anyone gonna ask them if they fixed the psu board, or whatever the problems were with the 40 series?
> If not, ill be going jvc


I'm sure the Epson customer service agent making $9 an hour will have a detailed answer for you if you call their customer contact number.


----------



## westbergjoakim

Have anyone tried S&V settings for 5040/6040? What do you guys think?

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-3d-dlp-projector-review-settings

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## los seres

evilmonstertruk said:


> Yea it looks like the 4050 is in the 5040s place and the 5050 will be a higher tier. So I hope the 5050 brings it because its at JVC level then.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



This is more likely a replacement for the Epson Pro Cinema 4040.


----------



## Nordvarg

New Epson 5050 with MSRP $3.300??
JVC will keep their RS540/X790 for next year with a reduced MSRP of $3.999, becoming their new entry model.

That's a no brainer to me


----------



## Juboy

westbergjoakim said:


> Have anyone tried S&V settings for 5040/6040? What do you guys think?
> 
> https://www.soundandvision.com/content/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-3d-dlp-projector-review-settings


I used these not long after I first got my 9300 (6040 in the US) and didn't like them at all. 

Rob and Orcus' settings from around page 500 of this thread are so much better it's not even funny.


----------



## Jameshtx

I'll buy the new Epson 5050 for $3,300 if it'll have true 4K resolution. Just saying lol


----------



## raf77

Enhanced 4k, all have been shown on IFA in Berlin.


----------



## PhilipLG

raf77 said:


> Enhanced 4k, all have been shown on IFA in Berlin.


The EH-TW9400 is the european name for what will most likely be called the 5050. It has 18 Gbps HDMI chipset which means it will solve the problems with the xbox one X and Apple TV in 4K HDR mode: "HDR10, Hybrid Log Gamma, 4K / 60p HDR with support for 18 Gbps". Rated output is 2600 lumens and 1,200,000: 1 contrast according to the released specs.


----------



## nickoakdl

PhilipLG said:


> The EH-TW9400 is the european name for what will most likely be called the 5050. It has 18 Gbps HDMI chipset which means it will solve the problems with the xbox one X and Apple TV in 4K HDR mode: "HDR10, Hybrid Log Gamma, 4K / 60p HDR with support for 18 Gbps". Rated output is 2600 lumens and 1,200,000: 1 contrast according to the released specs.


Am I the only one who finds that very underwhelming given what the other manufacturers are doing.


----------



## Hawkmarket

nickoakdl said:


> Am I the only one who finds that very underwhelming given what the other manufacturers are doing.



I give that a gigantic "it depends." In a true home theater setting rarely can you get so much more for $700 than the difference between this and the JVC 540. All that said....there are folks like me who have media rooms that aren't dedicated theaters. My room resembles more of a sports themed man cave but has still been customized to be able to use for lights off movie viewing as well. Dark ceiling, walls, rug etc. I'd say 50% of my viewing is sports with some lights on in the room on a 150" screen sitting 16 feet back. The other is "family movie night" with the lights off. For me if I can get an extra color imperfect 500 lumens plus for sports viewing in exchange for contrast that I still consider more than acceptable on movies it's not such a cut and dry decision. It also depends on how much they improved the eshift. They've claimed it so but it seems unlikely that it's even truly noticeable. In the end this projector has always seemed like a great media room jack of all trades master of none (like my room) solution and the JVC is meant for home theater.


----------



## Viche

nickoakdl said:


> Am I the only one who finds that very underwhelming given what the other manufacturers are doing.



Depends on the price. 





Hawkmarket said:


> I give that a gigantic "it depends." In a true home theater setting rarely can you get so much more for $700 than the difference between this and the JVC 540. All that said....there are folks like me who have media rooms that aren't dedicated theaters. My room resembles more of a sports themed man cave but has still been customized to be able to use for lights off movie viewing as well. Dark ceiling, walls, rug etc. I'd say 50% of my viewing is sports with some lights on in the room on a 150" screen sitting 16 feet back. The other is "family movie night" with the lights off. For me if I can get an extra color imperfect 500 lumens plus for sports viewing in exchange for contrast that I still consider more than acceptable on movies it's not such a cut and dry decision. It also depends on how much they improved the eshift. They've claimed it so but it seems unlikely that it's even truly noticeable. In the end this projector has always seemed like a great media room jack of all trades master of none (like my room) solution and the JVC is meant for home theater.



How does the JVCs handle HDR? Is it bright enough compared to the 5040?
What's the input lag on the JVCs? 
I've heard that despite having better black levels, they crush blacks compared to the 5040....true?


----------



## inspector

Hawkmarket said:


> I give that a gigantic "it depends." In a true home theater setting rarely can you get so much more for $700 than the difference between this and the JVC 540. All that said....there are folks like me who have media rooms that aren't dedicated theaters. My room resembles more of a sports themed man cave but has still been customized to be able to use for lights off movie viewing as well. Dark ceiling, walls, rug etc. I'd say 50% of my viewing is sports with some lights on in the room on a 150" screen sitting 16 feet back. The other is "family movie night" with the lights off. For me if I can get an extra color imperfect 500 lumens plus for sports viewing in exchange for contrast that I still consider more than acceptable on movies it's not such a cut and dry decision. It also depends on how much they improved the eshift. They've claimed it so but it seems unlikely that it's even truly noticeable. In the end this projector has always seemed like a great media room jack of all trades master of none (like my room) solution and the JVC is meant for home theater.




That's not true and is your opinion only. My 6040 is in my HT and that is where it belongs!!!


----------



## hifiheaven

nickoakdl said:


> Am I the only one who finds that very underwhelming given what the other manufacturers are doing.


Projector Tech is moving along at a snail pace. They give us the same old specs each year with with incremental advances that don't mean much to most consumers.


----------



## PewPewK

Welp. Seeing as there is no meaningful successor to the 5040ub from Epson after CEIDA and IFA (the minor upgrade the purported "5050ub" offered is not worth an additional $1000 imho), I finally decided to bite the bullet and buy the 5040ub that I've been eyeing for a couple of months now.

I'm expecting to be quite happy with it, should be a great upgrade over my BenQ HT1085ST. 

Now I'm setting my sights on upgrading my crappy grey SilverTicket screen with a Dark Energy screen, and my new home theater setup should be complete.


----------



## Jameshtx

PewPewK said:


> Welp. Seeing as there is no meaningful successor to the 5040ub from Epson after CEIDA and IFA (the minor upgrade the purported "5050ub" offered is not worth an additional $1000 imho), I finally decided to bite the bullet and buy the 5040ub that I've been eyeing for a couple of months now.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm expecting to be quite happy with it, should be a great upgrade over my BenQ HT1085ST.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm setting my sights on upgrading my crappy grey SilverTicket screen with a Dark Energy screen, and my new home theater setup should be complete.




Just curious why you chose the dark energy screen? Is it ALR? Im also looking to replace my silver ticket but dont know much about screens


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PewPewK

Jameshtx said:


> Just curious why you chose the dark energy screen? Is it ALR? Im also looking to replace my silver ticket but dont know much about screens
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, the Dark Energy screens seem to be extremely well reviewed ALR screens for a fraction of the price of most of the competitors out there (i.e. Black Diamond, etc.). You can check out some reviews on this forum if you Google "dark energy screens avsforum". Their site (darkenergyscreens . com; can't post links yet) also has several comparison videos. 

Anyways, they definitely piqued my curiosity and since ambient light is probably my greatest enemy right now (I live in an apartment and I can't really do much to control the windows situation), a high performing ALR screen seems like a good pair with this projector. They're not the cheapest (still hover around $1200-1500), but it's more of a long-term investment since a good projector screen can follow you from projector to projector. And if you have a 5040ub, you already are used to spending a lot of cash on your setup.


----------



## Lithium

I picked up a Panasonic UB820 to try out with the Epson. So I figured I would share some first impressions and ask a few questions.

So right out of the box I configured the Panasonic to output SDR2020. I reset a memory save on the Epson to a default Digital Cinema mode and attempted to setup a gamma of 2.4. I loaded up The Matrix UHD. I upped the Dynamic slider on the Panasonic a few clicks. The result wasn't far off from HarperVision. And there was a noticeable and significant improvement in the handling of the really bright content. A great example is the blue-white electric gun special effect, which had less clipping, less of a white blob, and ultimately looked more realistic. I'm sure overall colors are off a bit and I'll have to spend some time with a calibration disk. But, as far as simplicity goes this seems like a real winner. Once I get it more dialed in I will maybe try to post some screen compares.

One area that is not very clear to me is getting setup with 2.4 gamma. I found two suggestions and it looks like a custom curve is required. I don't think digital cinema would impact these settings? But I'd appreciate any feedback you guys have.

aaranddeeman's: 0, -3, -5, -7, -7, -7, -7, -8, 0
OrcusVaruna's: 0, -3, -5, -6, -6, -6, -6, -6, 0


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lithium said:


> I picked up a Panasonic UB820 to try out with the Epson. So I figured I would share some first impressions and ask a few questions.
> 
> 
> 
> So right out of the box I configured the Panasonic to output SDR2020. I reset a memory save on the Epson to a default Digital Cinema mode and attempted to setup a gamma of 2.4. I loaded up The Matrix UHD. I upped the Dynamic slider on the Panasonic a few clicks. The result wasn't far off from HarperVision. And there was a noticeable and significant improvement in the handling of the really bright content. A great example is the blue-white electric gun special effect, which had less clipping, less of a white blob, and ultimately looked more realistic. I'm sure overall colors are off a bit and I'll have to spend some time with a calibration disk. But, as far as simplicity goes this seems like a real winner. Once I get it more dialed in I will maybe try to post some screen compares.
> 
> 
> 
> One area that is not very clear to me is getting setup with 2.4 gamma. I found two suggestions and it looks like a custom curve is required. I don't think digital cinema would impact these settings? But I'd appreciate any feedback you guys have.
> 
> 
> 
> aaranddeeman's: 0, -3, -5, -7, -7, -7, -7, -8, 0
> 
> OrcusVaruna's: 0, -3, -5, -6, -6, -6, -6, -6, 0



If your using the Blu Ray player to force the image to sdr before outputting to the projector I would probably use natural or cinema instead of digital cinema. (Digital Cinema is a pretty inaccurate starting point for SDR and still doesn’t really track well even after calibration for sdr). As for the gamma carrying over from one preset to another I found there were rough correlations but differences could be pretty darn significant. Gamma is honestly a nightmare when calibrating this projector as any adjustments in the cms effect gamma and vice versa in not insignificant ways. Only with natural and cinema did I really find the gamma values ended up pretty similar after calibration. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

OrcusVaruna said:


> If your using the Blu Ray player to force the image to sdr before outputting to the projector I would probably use natural or cinema instead of digital cinema. (Digital Cinema is a pretty inaccurate starting point for SDR and still doesn’t really track well even after calibration for sdr). As for the gamma carrying over from one preset to another I found there were rough correlations but differences could be pretty darn significant. Gamma is honestly a nightmare when calibrating this projector as any adjustments in the cms effect gamma and vice versa in not insignificant ways. Only with natural and cinema did I really find the gamma values ended up pretty similar after calibration.


Thanks, that's a helpful starting point. I've tried to research and understand the difference between digital cinema vs cinema but I haven't found much. I thought maybe digital cinema was better calibrated for receiving a 2020 color signal. But, even that doesn't make complete sense to me since cinema also uses the color filter.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lithium said:


> Thanks, that's a helpful starting point. I've tried to research and understand the difference between digital cinema vs cinema but I haven't found much. I thought maybe digital cinema was better calibrated for receiving a 2020 color signal. But, even that doesn't make complete sense to me since cinema also uses the color filter.




I didn’t realize you were passing through the rec 2020 cs data. Unfortunately ime the gamma and color management system are linked too closely to one another to correlate that sdr 709 gamma to sdr 2020. The only way to really get the results you are after would be to calibrate Digital Cinema specifically for sdr at rec2020 color space with a meter. Anything short of that would be guessing and likely end up with a less accurate image then you started with. As for your other question on the differences between cinema and digital cinema, yes they both use the color filter but Cinema is a much better starting point for an sdr 709 gamma and cms calibration, whereas digital cinema puts you in better starting position for hdr 2020 calibrations. It’s not impossible to calibrate one for the other but you would be pushing both gamma and cms systems to their extremes which introduces large errors in other areas making your calibration much more difficult. 

If it were me and I didn’t have a meter I would have the player output the image at HDR2020 and use Harpervision, @robc1976, or my settings and utilize the hdr optimizer settings on the player to tweak the image to your liking. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

PewPewK said:


> Welp. Now I'm setting my sights on upgrading my crappy grey SilverTicket screen with a Dark Energy screen, and my new home theater setup should be complete.


That's what I say every time, before I upgrade to the next best thing.... The good thing is I have friends who buy my older equipment, which helps me compensate for my upgradeitis. 

Congratulations sir.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Stereojeff

MAZMAN808 said:


> Is anyone gonna ask them if they fixed the psu board, or whatever the problems were with the 40 series?
> If not, ill be going jvc



I have a long time friend at Epson. Per our discussion at CEDIA, the 5040/6040 power supply problem is now fixed. 



I believe him. My current (and 3rd) 6040 has been flawless.



Jeff


----------



## Lithium

OrcusVaruna said:


> If it were me and I didn’t have a meter I would have the player output the image at HDR2020 and use Harpervision, @robc1976, or my settings and utilize the hdr optimizer settings on the player to tweak the image to your liking.


Great, lots of good info there! Seems like I had the right mindset. But, unfortunately like you mentioned the gamma controls are really tightly linked to the rest of the CMS; unlike some other sightly higher end projector brands.

And yup, my fall back is to continue running HarperVision with the full HDR signal and optimizer while I work on the SDR2020 stuff. All this aside I am still a fan of the Panasonic player and the optimizations it can provide projector owners.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

Lithium said:


> Great, lots of good info there! Seems like I had the right mindset. But, unfortunately like you mentioned the gamma controls are really tightly linked to the rest of the CMS; unlike some other sightly higher end projector brands.
> 
> And yup, my fall back is to continue running HarperVision with the full HDR signal and optimizer while I work on the SDR2020 stuff. All this aside I am still a fan of the Panasonic player and the optimizations it can provide projector owners.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Just curious what player you had prior to the Panasonic


----------



## Lithium

Jameshtx said:


> Just curious what player you had prior to the Panasonic


Nothing fancy, a Samsung UBD-K8500. It surprisingly is one of the only devices I know of that correctly plays 4K HDR Netflix at 24hz. But it has it's drawbacks, it freezes in the middle of disks occasionally, the Vudu app is buggy and can't do HDR 12-bit correctly for the Epson, and IMO it doesn't upscale DVD all that well to 4K.

I guess it comes down to being able to justify the extra price of the Panasonic. I found an open box deal on eBay so I justified it to myself in that way!  Joking aside though, I think there is potential for continued improvement with a solid calibration for SDR2020.


----------



## 4 k for life

Hello Guys, I'm having hard time to find good 4k Hdr cable for long run between my Epson 6040ub, and Apple 4k tv, distance is 26'. I did try some cables but all of them have been failed. anyone could recommend me brand ?


----------



## roland6465

4 k for life said:


> Hello Guys, I'm having hard time to find good 4k Hdr cable for long run between my Epson 6040ub, and Apple 4k tv, distance is 26'. I did try some cables but all of them have been failed. anyone could recommend me brand ?


I use a Sewell 40' fiber HDMI for my 30' run. It's $140 at www.sewelldirect.com


----------



## Juiced46

4 k for life said:


> Hello Guys, I'm having hard time to find good 4k Hdr cable for long run between my Epson 6040ub, and Apple 4k tv, distance is 26'. I did try some cables but all of them have been failed. anyone could recommend me brand ?


I am running a 35' Monoprice cable. Has been working flawlessly for the past year. 

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024022&p_id=14469&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Juiced46

JewDaddy said:


> Hey Juiced. I think your best bet when watching movies to keep the 12 bit is what I have to do with my Linker anytime I want to watch Directv or use my PC in 4K. The EDID switch on the Linker itself has three options. I’m assuming you have it in the middle which is the “custom” setting. Try moving the switch to the “sink” setting so that it lets whatever the source you’re trying to watch, send that signal without the Linker messing with it. You may have already tried it but it’s worth a shot if you haven’t.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I wanted to update you. I tried the SINK setting and it indeed worked. Amazon Prime shows now in 4K/24 HDR 12 bit where as the Linker was forcing it to 8 bit with it on the middle EDID switch setting 

Also I was wrong about my Blu Ray input signal. With the Linker on the middle setting, I was getting 4k/24 HDR 12 bit and the linker was NOT forcing 8 bit, it was only forcing it in Amazon. 

However with the switch set to SINK, it does not give me 4K/60 8 bit HDR gaming. So I still need to toggle the switch depending if I am going to game or use Amazon. Not a big deal, still easier then unplugging stuff. 

Thanks again for the tip!


----------



## Viche

roland6465 said:


> I use a Sewell 40' fiber HDMI for my 30' run. It's $140 at www.sewelldirect.com





Juiced46 said:


> I am running a 35' Monoprice cable. Has been working flawlessly for the past year.
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024022&p_id=14469&seq=1&format=2


 Has anyone tested to see if these active or fiber optic cables (they require translation of data to light and back) affect input lag in gaming where thousandths of seconds matter?


----------



## roland6465

Sorry, I'm not a gamer.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Viche said:


> Has anyone tested to see if these active or fiber optic cables (they require translation of data to light and back) affect input lag in gaming where thousandths of seconds matter?




No and in theory it might actually improve lag at longer distances and the conversion of light to electrical signal should have virtually no lag as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Has anyone ever gotten a replacement from Epson due to the lens focus not being right? I luckily got a replacement 5040 after noticing a blue spot on a dark screen. I figured my projector was out of warranty but I still had 4 days left. I lucked out! Anyways, got my replacement and something just doesn’t seem right about the focus. I can get it good in some places but it’s nowhere near uniform. I plan on calling Epson about this in the morning but I’m just curious if anyone has had this issue. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 4 k for life

Juiced46 said:


> I am running a 35' Monoprice cable. Has been working flawlessly for the past year.
> 
> 
> thanks give it try


----------



## 4 k for life

roland6465 said:


> I use a Sewell 40' fiber HDMI for my 30' run. It's $140 at
> thanks but for me way to long.. i cannot find shorter one anyways I will keep looking.


----------



## monkaquinas

*5040UB Dead*

So, as it usually happens...you get everything upgraded and dialed in and finally comfortable with the image and then it breaks. Sat night my projector died. I was trying the Prime app on the 820 and wanted to adjust the setting and then the image went black, the fan kicked on high and the Status was flashing Blue & the Lamp was flashing Orange. It was like this for about 3 min. After it "cooled down", I unplugged it for a min, to clear any remnant energy, and plugged it back in and nothing. Wouldn't power up. :frown:

I was hoping this was just the lamp but I hit the Epson support site and it was a internal error. Guessing this is the PS issue that has haunted this thread.

I just got off the phone with Customer Support. They ran thru some checks with me and offered to send me a refurb after a credit hold. I explained to the Support agent that I didn't feel that was right. This projector was only 5 months old to just die. Seems like a quality issue. I explained that I had come from an Epson 8350 and went thru 5 replacements due to the Auto-Iris issue. I stated that quality seems to be lacking from Epson from the 8350 and now the 5040. I asked be to be escalated but she stated that Corporate wasn't open yet. She said that she saw my email ticket that I submitted Sat night and was going to FWD that on to Corporate with my reference number and that I should get a call within 24 hours.

I will give them 24 hours and see what happens. I'll post the serial if and when it gets sent back. Sad weekend in Texas.


----------



## Jameshtx

How do you calibrate to get better black levels?

I was told by a Magnolia sales guy that depends on the screen you use will help get better black levels. Then he shows me a $5k black diamond screen lol


----------



## Juiced46

Viche said:


> Has anyone tested to see if these active or fiber optic cables (they require translation of data to light and back) affect input lag in gaming where thousandths of seconds matter?



I have not seen any tests nor have anyway to test it. 

The only thing I know which isnt really a great comparison but. When I play games like COD, PUBG etc where milliseconds count, my stats remain the same regardless if I play on my LED TV with my Xbox One S, or on my Projector with my Xbox One X.


----------



## evilmonstertruk

Jameshtx said:


> How do you calibrate to get better black levels?
> 
> I was told by a Magnolia sales guy that depends on the screen you use will help get better black levels. Then he shows me a $5k black diamond screen lol


What screen do you have? Is your room light controlled? Are the walls a dark color or the ceiling?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Juboy

Jameshtx said:


> How do you calibrate to get better black levels?



Try Orcus' settings, he's managed to get the black levels as low as I've seen them go without crushing detail. It's quite remarkable just how dark this PJ will go when set-up well.


----------



## jbarteli

Juboy said:


> Try Orcus' settings, he's managed to get the black levels as low as I've seen them go without crushing detail. It's quite remarkable just how dark this PJ will go when set-up well.


Got a post or link for his settings? Thanx!


----------



## Juboy

jbarteli said:


> Got a post or link for his settings? Thanx!


You're best off starting here:


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-500.html#post56550468


Rob's settings are also excellent so it's worth putting them in a memory slot. If you continue reading through you'll see how the settings then evolve into Orcus' ones. Put both into a memory slot and you're sorted.



I switch between very slightly tweaked versions of these and Orcus' settings for pretty much all my HDR viewing now)


----------



## monkaquinas

monkaquinas said:


> So, as it usually happens...you get everything upgraded and dialed in and finally comfortable with the image and then it breaks. Sat night my projector died. I was trying the Prime app on the 820 and wanted to adjust the setting and then the image went black, the fan kicked on high and the Status was flashing Blue & the Lamp was flashing Orange. It was like this for about 3 min. After it "cooled down", I unplugged it for a min, to clear any remnant energy, and plugged it back in and nothing. Wouldn't power up. :frown:
> 
> I was hoping this was just the lamp but I hit the Epson support site and it was a internal error. Guessing this is the PS issue that has haunted this thread.
> 
> I just got off the phone with Customer Support. They ran thru some checks with me and offered to send me a refurb after a credit hold. I explained to the Support agent that I didn't feel that was right. This projector was only 5 months old to just die. Seems like a quality issue. I explained that I had come from an Epson 8350 and went thru 5 replacements due to the Auto-Iris issue. I stated that quality seems to be lacking from Epson from the 8350 and now the 5040. I asked be to be escalated but she stated that Corporate wasn't open yet. She said that she saw my email ticket that I submitted Sat night and was going to FWD that on to Corporate with my reference number and that I should get a call within 24 hours.
> 
> I will give them 24 hours and see what happens. I'll post the serial if and when it gets sent back. Sad weekend in Texas.


When I got home, I found a VM from Epson. I called them back and the Agent asked for my information and asked for some time to review all the notes. She did a great job of understanding my situation and previous experience and placed me on hold for like 10 mins while she spoke to Customer Relations to get approval for a New projector. I did have to jump thru some further hoops: pic of SN and receipt of purchase for them to ship the replacement to my office for signature. I have yet to get any shipping information. I'll keep everyone updated.


----------



## JewDaddy

Is it safe to assume now that there is not going to be a direct successor to the 5040? There was a previous post with a link to a website claiming there would be a 5050 Projector with the full 18gbs HDMI. I hope something is in the works and it’s not just the 4050 coming out this year. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## --Sclaws

monkaquinas said:


> When I got home, I found a VM from Epson. I called them back and the Agent asked for my information and asked for some time to review all the notes. She did a great job of understanding my situation and previous experience and placed me on hold for like 10 mins while she spoke to Customer Relations to get approval for a New projector. I did have to jump thru some further hoops: pic of SN and receipt of purchase for them to ship the replacement to my office for signature. I have yet to get any shipping information. I'll keep everyone updated.


Sucks, but they seem to respond quickly. I received my refurb via FedEx overnight (sent last Tuesday). The unit looks and performs fine so far. Oddly seems to emit less noise when projecting 4Ke (it sits almost directly above my head). I'm cautiously satisfied for now.


----------



## Jameshtx

evilmonstertruk said:


> What screen do you have? Is your room light controlled? Are the walls a dark color or the ceiling?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Silver ticket screen from amazon. My walls and ceilings are painted black, carpet is gray, and I have windows with blackout curtains. Completely dark @ nighttime


----------



## kevdon15

JewDaddy said:


> Is it safe to assume now that there is not going to be a direct successor to the 5040? There was a previous post with a link to a website claiming there would be a 5050 Projector with the full 18gbs HDMI. I hope something is in the works and it’s not just the 4050 coming out this year.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't know man! I'm almost finished with my media room basement project, and the 5050 was supposed to be the center piece! I really don't want to settle with the 5040. Ugh.


----------



## jbarteli

Juboy said:


> You're best off starting here:
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-500.html#post56550468
> 
> 
> Rob's settings are also excellent so it's worth putting them in a memory slot. If you continue reading through you'll see how the settings then evolve into Orcus' ones. Put both into a memory slot and you're sorted.
> 
> 
> 
> I switch between very slightly tweaked versions of these and Orcus' settings for pretty much all my HDR viewing now)


Thanx, will check it out.


----------



## Mr.G

JewDaddy said:


> Is it safe to assume now that there is not going to be a direct successor to the 5040? There was a previous post with a link to a website claiming there would be a 5050 Projector with the full 18gbs HDMI. I hope something is in the works and it’s not just the 4050 coming out this year.


You're thinking of the European versions of the Epson unveiled at IFA - the EH-TW9400 and EH-TW7400.

https://www.chromapure.co.uk/details.asp?id=281&type=news


----------



## FreyTheater

The EH-TW9400 is basically the 5050 equivalent. It's not releasing in Europe until November, so I would expect the 5050 around the same time or slightly later. Hopefully before the end of this year. It's disappointing that Epson announced the new model at IFA, but not a comparable model at CEDIA. Hopefully they'll announce it here soon. I have a failing Epson 5010 in my theater right now, with a column of blue pixels running down my screen, and I really wanted to replace it with the 5050, so I'm chomping at the bit to for some word about it. Otherwise, I'll have to settle for a 4010, which has the exact same brightness and contrast specs as my 5010 but with a lot of added features, so I could live with that - but I really wanted to upgrade to a UB model, since I have a totally light-controlled theater room. I just don't trust those high-failure power supplies in the current 5040UB.


----------



## welldun

Juboy said:


> You're best off starting here:
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-500.html#post56550468
> 
> 
> Rob's settings are also excellent so it's worth putting them in a memory slot. If you continue reading through you'll see how the settings then evolve into Orcus' ones. Put both into a memory slot and you're sorted.
> 
> 
> 
> I switch between very slightly tweaked versions of these and Orcus' settings for pretty much all my HDR viewing now)


Hello, thanks for the link I will have to check out those settings. I've had my 5040UB since it first became available in the U.S.A. I use it in a dedicated Home Theater room that is light controlled with dark walls. The screen is a CineWhite Screen from Elite Screens. For my SDR calibration I used the DVE disc with the Projector in cinema mode and ECO mode. For HDR material I'm using the Harpervision settings since they work really well in my room, despite the loud fan noise that comes with the High setting. 

My question is, now that Epson has provided firmware update Version 112 for the 5040UB, are does of you who were using Harpervision before the firmware update, still using these same settings for HDR with this latest firmware update? Just wonder if due to the firmware update, some one has found a better calibration/solution than Harpervision (assuming Harpervision was your goto calibration prior to the update)?


----------



## NetViper

If the new version of the 5040 comes here rumor is it is $3300. Now with Jvc price drop, you can get a 540 /x790 for about the same price. Would there be any reason to get a 5050 over the Jvc? Plus you can get the Jvc now.


----------



## Lithium

welldun said:


> My question is, now that Epson has provided firmware update Version 112 for the 5040UB, are does of you who were using Harpervision before the firmware update, still using these same settings for HDR with this latest firmware update? Just wonder if due to the firmware update, some one has found a better calibration/solution than Harpervision (assuming Harpervision was your goto calibration prior to the update)?


I personally like HarperVision and Digital Cinema in general and have found this configuration to provide the best results for my dedicated HT environment. HarperVision requires no changes due to firmware updates. Those updates are mostly tweaks to the HDR modes. Some members here have calibrated against these updated HDR modes and really enjoy the results.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lithium said:


> I personally like HarperVision and Digital Cinema in general and have found this configuration to provide the best results for my dedicated HT environment. HarperVision requires no changes due to firmware updates. Those updates are mostly tweaks to the HDR modes. Some members here have calibrated against these updated HDR modes and really enjoy the results.



My settings (auto bright), Robs settings (auto) and Harpervision (sdr) are imo complimentary as hdr calibration on the 5040 is one giant trade off and these settings represent each of the 3 viable starting points for calibration very well. In essence using autobright will compress shadows and lower ranges of the image on one hand and compress mid and upper ranges on the other. This helps emphasize intraimage contrast (the result is the most dynamic looking image at the expense of specular highlights and shadow detail, this is great for action movies and animated features). Using auto compresses the mid tone range and emphasizes highlight brightness (ie specular highlights really pop but the image looks a little flatter and less contrasty overall). Finally, using sdr emphasizes shadow detail and compresses mid and upper range of the image (this gives you a very filmic image at the expense of trying to artificially reproduce hdr content on a display that’s not capable of doing it. The result is a bit flat but very watchable for all hdr material). Sorry for the long explanation and I hope it makes sense. I just thought it was important to distinguish between the settings going around as each is a trade off and will come down to personal preference. Personally I want the most contrasty looking image and will trade off on the other areas, so I use my own autobright calibration most of the time. However with certain movies I will switch to a calibration based off of Robs settings or Harpervision. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

NetViper said:


> If the new version of the 5040 comes here rumor is it is $3300. Now with Jvc price drop, you can get a 540 /x790 for about the same price. Would there be any reason to get a 5050 over the Jvc? Plus you can get the Jvc now.


$3300 is a rumor and my suspicion it will be lower when it comes out based on JVC RS540 pricing (MSRP $4K) and Epson 4050 pricing. Also keep in mind JVC lamps are WAY more expensive than Epson (or everyone else?!) like 2-3x more expensive if you're concerned about cost. Also JVC is known for having very slow sync times for HDMI (18 GB) like 15-20 seconds whereas I hear Sony who also introduced 18 GB HDMI like the JVC with their 295 has very fast HDMI switching. I saw a demo of a JVC with the slow HDMI syncing and when you are using the menus it will just freeze up for like 15-20 seconds which feels like a very long time and does it not just when changing HDMI inputs but other menu settings set it off. Very annoying. I'll be curious when the 5050 comes out if it's fast like the Sony or slow like the JVC.


----------



## Lithium

OrcusVaruna said:


> My settings (auto bright), Robs settings (auto) and Harpervision (sdr) are imo complimentary as hdr calibration on the 5040 is one giant trade off and these settings represent each of the 3 viable starting points for calibration very well. In essence using autobright will compress shadows and lower ranges of the image on one hand and compress mid and upper ranges on the other. This helps emphasize intraimage contrast (the result is the most dynamic looking image at the expense of specular highlights and shadow detail, this is great for action movies and animated features). Using auto compresses the mid tone range and emphasizes highlight brightness (ie specular highlights really pop but the image looks a little flatter and less contrasty overall). Finally, using sdr emphasizes shadow detail and compresses mid and upper range of the image (this gives you a very filmic image at the expense of trying to artificially reproduce hdr content on a display that’s not capable of doing it. The result is a bit flat but very watchable for all hdr material). Sorry for the long explanation and I hope it makes sense. I just thought it was important to distinguish between the settings going around as each is a trade off and will come down to personal preference. Personally I want the most contrasty looking image and will trade off on the other areas, so I use my own autobright calibration most of the time. However with certain movies I will switch to a calibration based off of Robs settings or Harpervision.


I'm hoping we can eventually add another calibration to the list for SDR 2020 with 2.4 gamma. For use with the Panny UB820, of course. I'm gonna keep egging people on because I'm jealous of all the JVC owners who can set gamma so easily while I personally don't have the equipment to do it properly on the Epson!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lithium said:


> I'm hoping we can eventually add another calibration to the list for SDR 2020 with 2.4 gamma. For use with the Panny UB820, of course. I'm gonna keep egging people on because I'm jealous of all the JVC owners who can set gamma so easily while I personally don't have the equipment to do it properly on the Epson!



I will likely pick up an 820 soon just because I can’t help myself lol. Once I do I’d be happy to mess with a digital cinema setting tracked to 2.4 to see what I can come up with. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

OrcusVaruna said:


> My settings (auto bright), Robs settings (auto) and Harpervision (sdr) are imo complimentary as hdr calibration on the 5040 is one giant trade off and these settings represent each of the 3 viable starting points for calibration very well. In essence using autobright will compress shadows and lower ranges of the image on one hand and compress mid and upper ranges on the other. This helps emphasize intraimage contrast (the result is the most dynamic looking image at the expense of specular highlights and shadow detail, this is great for action movies and animated features). Using auto compresses the mid tone range and emphasizes highlight brightness (ie specular highlights really pop but the image looks a little flatter and less contrasty overall). Finally, using sdr emphasizes shadow detail and compresses mid and upper range of the image (this gives you a very filmic image at the expense of trying to artificially reproduce hdr content on a display that’s not capable of doing it. The result is a bit flat but very watchable for all hdr material). Sorry for the long explanation and I hope it makes sense. I just thought it was important to distinguish between the settings going around as each is a trade off and will come down to personal preference. Personally I want the most contrasty looking image and will trade off on the other areas, so I use my own autobright calibration most of the time. However with certain movies I will switch to a calibration based off of Robs settings or Harpervision.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well versed OV...


----------



## NetViper

WynsWrld98 said:


> $3300 is a rumor and my suspicion it will be lower when it comes out based on JVC RS540 pricing (MSRP $4K) and Epson 4050 pricing. Also keep in mind JVC lamps are WAY more expensive than Epson (or everyone else?!) like 2-3x more expensive if you're concerned about cost. Also JVC is known for having very slow sync times for HDMI (18 GB) like 15-20 seconds whereas I hear Sony who also introduced 18 GB HDMI like the JVC with their 295 has very fast HDMI switching. I saw a demo of a JVC with the slow HDMI syncing and when you are using the menus it will just freeze up for like 15-20 seconds which feels like a very long time and does it not just when changing HDMI inputs but other menu settings set it off. Very annoying. I'll be curious when the 5050 comes out if it's fast like the Sony or slow like the JVC.


So does that mean when you switch HDMI inputs its slow, or just in general? I leave mine on the same input since the Xbox does games and 4K BR. 

Also, that 540/970r was a $6K projector this year.. so seems like a steal to me.


----------



## DavidinGA

NetViper said:


> So does that mean when you switch HDMI inputs its slow, or just in general? I leave mine on the same input since the Xbox does games and 4K BR.
> 
> Also, that 540/970r was a $6K projector this year.. so seems like a steal to me.


Right, if you want to switch your inputs from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 it might take 20 seconds to switch.


----------



## WynsWrld98

NetViper said:


> So does that mean when you switch HDMI inputs its slow, or just in general? I leave mine on the same input since the Xbox does games and 4K BR.
> 
> Also, that 540/970r was a $6K projector this year.. so seems like a steal to me.


It's much more than just switching inputs I couldn't figure out which settings were triggering it and which weren't but it happens a lot in the menus. Weird that Sony has it working fast in the 295 model but JVC slow with multiple model years.


----------



## DavidinGA

WynsWrld98 said:


> It's much more than just switching inputs I couldn't figure out which settings were triggering it and which weren't but it happens a lot in the menus. Weird that Sony has it working fast in the 295 model but JVC slow with multiple model years.


It happens with menus too??? Wow, that would be horrible...


----------



## WynsWrld98

DavidinGA said:


> It happens with menus too??? Wow, that would be horrible...


Yes. When it happens it feels like the whole projector froze up like it isn't going to come back. That problem and the ridiculous prices of lamps keeps me away from JVC.


----------



## NetViper

WynsWrld98 said:


> Yes. When it happens it feels like the whole projector froze up like it isn't going to come back. That problem and the ridiculous prices of lamps keeps me away from JVC.


I can see that being an issue if you watch it all the time. If you use it on weekends for movies, lamps should last a long time.


----------



## ccotenj

NetViper said:


> I can see that being an issue if you watch it all the time. If you use it on weekends for movies, lamps should last a long time.



well, i didn't go through the effort of making a "projector friendly room" just to baby it. 



it is my main tv.


----------



## NetViper

ccotenj said:


> well, i didn't go through the effort of making a "projector friendly room" just to baby it.
> 
> 
> 
> it is my main tv.


Well in that case, yes lamp price is pretty important


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Azekecse said:


> Well versed OV...




Welcome! Also wanted to clarify a pm that I got, I am not saying autobright provides the best contrast, you can actually achieve very similar true contrast ratios starting with either autobright, auto, or SDR. But the way different tones are compressed either high or low using autobright creates an optical illusion of higher contrast. This phenomenon is often cited as perceived contrast by reviewers. If anyone can explain this better please do as I am no expert lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ccotenj

NetViper said:


> Well in that case, yes lamp price is pretty important



yup.  couple thousand hours a year add up fast.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

ccotenj said:


> yup.  couple thousand hours a year add up fast.




I’m with you, totally would have went with a JVC but I’m on the 1-2 bulb a year diet since it’s my main television. I honestly can’t wait for these things to start using lasers or leds at this price point. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

NetViper said:


> If the new version of the 5040 comes here rumor is it is $3300. Now with Jvc price drop, you can get a 540 /x790 for about the same price. Would there be any reason to get a 5050 over the Jvc? Plus you can get the Jvc now.



The new price for the JVCs is $4k. Where are you seeing anything lower?


----------



## NetViper

Viche said:


> The new price for the JVCs is $4k. Where are you seeing anything lower?


Been watching what people are posting on FB about it.


----------



## Viche

NetViper said:


> Been watching what people are posting on FB about it.



Do they mention actual prices at actual resellers?


----------



## welldun

OrcusVaruna said:


> My settings (auto bright), Robs settings (auto) and Harpervision (sdr) are imo complimentary as hdr calibration on the 5040 is one giant trade off and these settings represent each of the 3 viable starting points for calibration very well. In essence using autobright will compress shadows and lower ranges of the image on one hand and compress mid and upper ranges on the other. This helps emphasize intraimage contrast (the result is the most dynamic looking image at the expense of specular highlights and shadow detail, this is great for action movies and animated features). Using auto compresses the mid tone range and emphasizes highlight brightness (ie specular highlights really pop but the image looks a little flatter and less contrasty overall). Finally, using sdr emphasizes shadow detail and compresses mid and upper range of the image (this gives you a very filmic image at the expense of trying to artificially reproduce hdr content on a display that’s not capable of doing it. The result is a bit flat but very watchable for all hdr material). Sorry for the long explanation and I hope it makes sense. I just thought it was important to distinguish between the settings going around as each is a trade off and will come down to personal preference. Personally I want the most contrasty looking image and will trade off on the other areas, so I use my own autobright calibration most of the time. However with certain movies I will switch to a calibration based off of Robs settings or Harpervision.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you both (Lithium and Orcus) for your replies, much appreciated!

I have a few more questions which I'll ask here:
1. Orcus, if I recall correctly, your AutoBright setting was based on the projector being set to "Expanded" which I thought was better suited for PC's. That being said, how would that affect things if I'm using a Sony UBP-X800? 

2. I also see that some settings are made in conjunction to also making changes to the source (UHD player), which I would assume play a role in how the overall picture looks. How can we compensate for that if we are only making changes to the settings in the projector?... or is there a universal setting in all UHD players that we should first adjust before making the changes to the projector settings?

3. For those of us who don't have calibration equipment and are using the settings provided in this forum, is worth using something like the DVE disc or Disney WOW disc first before implementing the recommended settings? Or should those discs be used after the recommended settings are implemented?


----------



## Hawkmarket

NetViper said:


> If the new version of the 5040 comes here rumor is it is $3300. Now with Jvc price drop, you can get a 540 /x790 for about the same price. Would there be any reason to get a 5050 over the Jvc? Plus you can get the Jvc now.



There seems to be some ambiguity around this. I talked to someone the other day I consider very reputable who informed me there is no 5050 upgrade and the only change is they are upgrading the HDMI of the 5040. There is no 5050 according to this person. I was surprised nothing was announced at CEDIA regarding this as that was clearly the time to do it. I'm not prepared to argue this point as I'm just the messenger and passing along what I was told by someone who is usually in the know around here. Time will tell.


----------



## Juiced46

Hawkmarket said:


> There seems to be some ambiguity around this. I talked to someone the other day I consider very reputable who informed me there is no 5050 upgrade and the only change is they are upgrading the HDMI of the 5040. There is no 5050 according to this person. I was surprised nothing was announced at CEDIA regarding this as that was clearly the time to do it. I'm not prepared to argue this point as I'm just the messenger and passing along what I was told by someone who is usually in the know around here. Time will tell.


I know you are the messenger, but we DO know there is a Euro version of the 5050(or whatever we want to call it) So it would seem like the US will be getting it. 

Next, what do you mean they are "upgrading" the HDMI in the 5040? So is that person saying, all new produced 5040s from here on out will have upgraded HDMI chipsets? That just does not make much sense. That would be strange if they did that. If they release the same model but with upgraded hardware under the same model name. It seems that would be extremely confusing for a buyer as well. How do you know if you would get new stock with upgrades or old stock with the 10gb chipset?

I am not arguing with you, or saying your informant does not know anything. But its just those 2 scenarios seem highly unlikely. But, its all speculation at this point.


----------



## Robert Crewse

http://www.avmagazine.it/articoli/stampa/4K/1241/first-look-epson-eh-tw9400_index.html

I’ve been anxiously looking forward to a more future-proof version of the 5040UB and have been scouring articles on the Epson eh-tw9400 since it was released at IFA. After you enable a translation, there is some good information in this article that seems to confirm some details on European pricing, limited throughout of the wireless model, and some optimistic general observations. Can’t wait for a US release....


----------



## Robert Crewse

That would be limited THROUGHPUT....


----------



## Hawkmarket

Juiced46 said:


> I know you are the messenger, but we DO know there is a Euro version of the 5050(or whatever we want to call it) So it would seem like the US will be getting it.
> 
> Next, what do you mean they are "upgrading" the HDMI in the 5040? So is that person saying, all new produced 5040s from here on out will have upgraded HDMI chipsets? That just does not make much sense. That would be strange if they did that. If they release the same model but with upgraded hardware under the same model name. It seems that would be extremely confusing for a buyer as well. How do you know if you would get new stock with upgrades or old stock with the 10gb chipset?
> 
> I am not arguing with you, or saying your informant does not know anything. But its just those 2 scenarios seem highly unlikely. But, its all speculation at this point.



My interpretation was yes, future produced 5040's will have the upgraded chipsets. I asked when that would take place and this person said they weren't certain. After the Euro version was announced I was indeed surprised CEDIA came and went with no mention of it. I have no idea but I was interested enough task specifically about this and I'm telling you what I was told. I'd be very interested in it if they supposedly do have an improved e-shift (as the 4050 claims) and an upgraded HDMI chipset. The fact that CEDIA brought nothing leaves me wondering but who knows.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Hawkmarket said:


> My interpretation was yes, future produced 5040's will have the upgraded chipsets. I asked when that would take place and this person said they weren't certain. After the Euro version was announced I was indeed surprised CEDIA came and went with no mention of it. I have no idea but I was interested enough task specifically about this and I'm telling you what I was told. I'd be very interested in it if they supposedly do have an improved e-shift (as the 4050 claims) and an upgraded HDMI chipset. The fact that CEDIA brought nothing leaves me wondering but who knows.



It wouldn’t surprise me if the 5050ub or whatever it will be called is just a 5040 with 18gbps hdmi and a few minor tweaks to the power handling system as it is an excellent projector which would be difficult to surpass pq wise without redesigned lcd panels. In the European models articles it talks about a bunch of fancy wiz bang features that sound like pure marketing fooey to me. I would expect these will have no impact on performance whatsoever. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

OrcusVaruna said:


> It wouldn’t surprise me if the 5050ub or whatever it will be called is just a 5040 with 18gbps hdmi and a few minor tweaks to the power handling system as it is an excellent projector which would be difficult to surpass pq wise without redesigned lcd panels. In the European models articles it talks about a bunch of fancy wiz bang features that sound like pure marketing fooey to me. I would expect these will have no impact on performance whatsoever.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Reviews of the European version of the 5040 successor should answer the questions about how different it is from the 5040 since the European version should be very similar to the eventual 5050.


----------



## gene4ht

WynsWrld98 said:


> Reviews of the European version of the 5040 successor should answer the questions about how different it is from the 5040 since the European version should be very similar to the eventual 5050.


It has been puzzling to me that as of late, product information...regardless if rumor, speculation, or factual...has always typically leaked or appeared in the European marketplace first. Perhaps Europe is a larger market than North America, not burden with or ignores NDA’s, or just more interested and enthusiastic about audio and video. It would seem to me that in today’s Information Age with a tool/vehicle like the internet that global manufacturers would share product information instantly and simultaneously with the globe...hmmm.


----------



## monkaquinas

--Sclaws said:


> Sucks, but they seem to respond quickly. I received my refurb via FedEx overnight (sent last Tuesday). The unit looks and performs fine so far. Oddly seems to emit less noise when projecting 4Ke (it sits almost directly above my head). I'm cautiously satisfied for now.


The NEW projector was delivered Wed afternoon to my office. I took it home and finally replaced my old one last night. I fired it up and did the initial setup for front ceiling and dialing in the lens. I did have pics of my settings after running thru calibration several weeks ago as a baseline. I'll let the lamp burn-in for about 300 hours and do the calibration passes with DVE, Spears, & WOW discs & Masciola patterns.


FW is .12 with 0 hours on the lamp and the box was like my old box with labels and descriptions. Great customer service.


----------



## satyab

OrcusVaruna said:


> It wouldn’t surprise me if the 5050ub or whatever it will be called is just a 5040 with 18gbps hdmi and a few minor tweaks to the power handling system as it is an excellent projector which would be difficult to surpass pq wise without redesigned lcd panels. In the European models articles it talks about a bunch of fancy wiz bang features that sound like pure marketing fooey to me. I would expect these will have no impact on performance whatsoever.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This was my impression when I first read the specs. Most of the additions on 5050 specs are capabilities 18Gbps chipset brings other than that rest is same as 5040.


----------



## jnation

Hawkmarket said:


> My interpretation was yes, future produced 5040's will have the upgraded chipsets. I asked when that would take place and this person said they weren't certain. After the Euro version was announced I was indeed surprised CEDIA came and went with no mention of it. I have no idea but I was interested enough task specifically about this and I'm telling you what I was told. I'd be very interested in it if they supposedly do have an improved e-shift (as the 4050 claims) and an upgraded HDMI chipset. The fact that CEDIA brought nothing leaves me wondering but who knows.


 I suspect Epson planned to show a 6050UB at CEDIA but the new price point on the JVC 540 at $4k, down from the current $6k, may have undermined Epson's planned price points/market positioning for the US and so they may have pulled it from the show while they re-evaluate. Positioning for the 6050UB would have also probably affected positioning for a 5050UB. I say all this because according to T.J. Norton at Sound & Vision, Epson had a demo of the current 6040UB vs the Sony VW385ES and it seems far more likely IMO that they had intended this to be a demo of a 6050UB, especially after showing a TW9400 at IFA with improved specs over the 5040/6040.

His comments "In another demo room, Epson briefly compared its Pro Cinema 6040UB, not a new model, to Sony’s now discontinued VW385ES, to the benefit of the Epson. The tests were still frames. I don’t question the setup (I trust those who did it) but I found that result surprising. According to Epson, the 4050, while cheaper than the 6040UB, is claimed to be more advanced than the 6040 in a number of significant ways, though the 6040UB has received some significant upgrades since it was first introduced." https://www.soundandvision.com/content/epson’s-new-pro-cinema


----------



## OrcusVaruna

satyab said:


> This was my impression when I first read the specs. Most of the additions on 5050 specs are capabilities 18Gbps chipset brings other than that rest is same as 5040.



One thing that baffles me industry wide is why these manufactures don’t switch to a 100+ watt 6500k dense matrix led for the light source. These light sources are commercially available and utilized extensively in the horticulture and aquarium hobbies and the baseline cost for a cluster sufficient for a projector would be about $150 wholesale. I’m guessing they don’t want to give up bulb sales but they have to realize consumers will wise up at some point...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## descalabro

OrcusVaruna said:


> One thing that baffles me industry wide is why these manufactures don’t switch to a 100+ watt 6500k dense matrix led for the light source. These light sources are commercially available and utilized extensively in the horticulture and aquarium hobbies and the baseline cost for a cluster sufficient for a projector would be about $150 wholesale. I’m guessing they don’t want to give up bulb sales but they have to realize consumers will wise up at some point...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


But are they technically accurate for the colour reproduction needs of a projector?


----------



## DavidinGA

OrcusVaruna said:


> One thing that baffles me industry wide is why these manufactures don’t switch to a 100+ watt 6500k dense matrix led for the light source. These light sources are commercially available and utilized extensively in the horticulture and aquarium hobbies and the baseline cost for a cluster sufficient for a projector would be about $150 wholesale. I’m guessing they don’t want to give up bulb sales but they have to realize consumers will wise up at some point...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


While I don't have a firm grasp on the intricacies of a single light source within projectors, I can say after having a reef tank for years and using a single light point (metal halide) and then Leds, that a single light source is better, less prone to failure (less parts = greater reliability just light anything else), and produced a "cleaner/purer" light path. My gut feeling is that a led cluster would be a step down in quality for projectors, but I could be wrong. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> While I don't have a firm grasp on the intricacies of a single light source within projectors, I can say after having a reef tank for years and using a single light point (metal halide) and then Leds, that a single light source is better, less prone to failure (less parts = greater reliability just light anything else), and produced a "cleaner/purer" light path. My gut feeling is that a led cluster would be a step down in quality for projectors, but I could be wrong.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




Agreed but they have solved the this issue with lasers which are even more point source and less reliable then LED’s. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

descalabro said:


> But are they technically accurate for the colour reproduction needs of a projector?




Yes leds are more then accurate enough and have much less spectrum shift then gas arc bulbs as they age. But I’m definitely no expert just wondering out loud more then anything. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

OrcusVaruna said:


> Agreed but they have solved the this issue with lasers which are even more point source and less reliable then LED’s.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That might well be the issue with leds; they are not a precise light source like lasers are and that presents new issues... 

My understanding is that leds produce a wider "dome like" light path and lasers offer a very pinpointed precise light path. 


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> That might well be the issue with leds; they are not a precise light source like lasers are and that presents new issues...
> 
> My understanding is that leds produce a wider "dome like" light path and lasers offer a very pinpointed precise light path.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




Could be, interesting to think about none the less 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## descalabro

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes leds are more then accurate enough and have much less spectrum shift then gas arc bulbs as they age. But I’m definitely no expert just wondering out loud more then anything.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well, I'm certainly no expert too, but I know that printing technicians, for example, use very expensive white lamps made for colour evaluation which have not yet been manufactured using LED because they're not as accurate. Still, I have no idea whether I would be able to spot the difference myself.


----------



## shoeboo

HT Geeks did a few shows regarding bt.2020 and dci/p3 color space and light sources needed. From my recollection, general white light wasn’t necessarily good, you are looking for brightness in very specific parts of the spectrum that corresponds to the vertices of the color space. This is why lasers could be so good as they don’t waste a ton of light output at frequencies that would be filtered out to get best color coverage. This is also why some projectors lose a lot more light to hit p3 vs others (think epson vs jvc). More of the JVCs light output is helpful for hitting p3. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

I have a question about black and white level. I'm using AVS 709 and Orcus SDR settings to set the levels. Brightness 56 and contrast 58. But in APL Clipping, I have to bump up brightness to 60, otherwise I won't barely see 17 blinkning, only to 20-21 or something like that. Which way is correct? To go with APL or only set by black and white clipping?

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Zoltrix

Hi all,

So I think from reading bits and pieces, the 5040UB (EH-TW8300) can't do 4k and HDR at the same time because of the 10.2Gbps HDMI ports?

Cheers,
Zolt


----------



## WynsWrld98

Zoltrix said:


> Hi all,
> 
> So I think from reading bits and pieces, the 5040UB (EH-TW8300) can't do 4k and HDR at the same time because of the 10.2Gbps HDMI ports?
> 
> Cheers,
> Zolt


It can if it's receiving it in 24 Hz, not 60 Hz.


----------



## Zoltrix

WynsWrld98 said:


> It can if it's receiving it in 24 Hz, not 60 Hz.


Ah ok cool. Are most game consoles and online services (eg, Netflix) able to do 4k/HDR at 24 Hz?


----------



## raf77

On ATV 4k Netflix, yes.


----------



## Dave2sb

Has anyone tried the Panasonic DP-UB820 player with the 5040 yet? Was curious if it worked well with this projector and if the hdr optimizer made any difference.


----------



## westbergjoakim

Zoltrix said:


> Ah ok cool. Are most game consoles and online services (eg, Netflix) able to do 4k/HDR at 24 Hz?





raf77 said:


> On ATV 4k Netflix, yes.


And Shield.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

westbergjoakim said:


> I have a question about black and white level. I'm using AVS 709 and Orcus SDR settings to set the levels. Brightness 56 and contrast 58. But in APL Clipping, I have to bump up brightness to 60, otherwise I won't barely see 17 blinkning, only to 20-21 or something like that. Which way is correct? To go with APL or only set by black and white clipping?
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk



When setting brightness is is important the room is totally dark and you switch your location and angle to the screen as you set. Sitting straight on only can cause optical illusions in which your eye doesn’t pick up the blinking from the static background. Moving around changes the angle of incidence of the light hitting your eye and can impact how you would set brightness by 1-5 clicks in some cases. Also make sure the auto iris is set to off during all calibration and that hdmi range is set to expanded. If you need a better explanation calman has some great YouTube video tutorials. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

OrcusVaruna said:


> When setting brightness is is important the room is totally dark and you switch your location and angle to the screen as you set. Sitting straight on only can cause optical illusions in which your eye doesn’t pick up the blinking from the static background. Moving around changes the angle of incidence of the light hitting your eye and can impact how you would set brightness by 1-5 clicks in some cases. Also make sure the auto iris is set to off during all calibration and that hdmi range is set to expanded. If you need a better explanation calman has some great YouTube video tutorials.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks! I have always done as your explination. Should Epson White be set to on or off during this? With off, I get down to 46, and when I turn it on, I can't see any blinkning and have to turn it up to 57.

Have you test your settings from Black and White Clipping in APL Clipping to see if they match or if you have to turn brightness up to se 17 blinkning? 

Which one should I go with? With Black and White Clipping i get darker and more vivid picture. Set after APL Clipping I get better contrast and can see more details, but it gets little more flat and not the same blacklevel. Here I have to turn up brightness to 60 to se 17 blinkning.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## monkaquinas

Dave2sb said:


> Has anyone tried the Panasonic DP-UB820 player with the 5040 yet? Was curious if it worked well with this projector and if the hdr optimizer made any difference.


Yes, although I don't have a previous 4k experience, since the UB820 is my first 4k source. The HDR optimizer of the UB820 is very cool in bringing out the needed brightness in high contrast scenes, JL Flash Maelstrom scene. The UB820 thread has good info from some Epson owners and a lof from JVC and FP users.


----------



## Lithium

Dave2sb said:


> Has anyone tried the Panasonic DP-UB820 player with the 5040 yet? Was curious if it worked well with this projector and if the hdr optimizer made any difference.


We don't have a good baseline SDR 2020, gamma 2.4 calibration for the Epson yet so we may be missing some of the potential of this player. 

However, in the meantime, my recommendation is to run HDR with Optimizer On, and have the display type set to either Projector (500nits) or Middle Luminance (1000 nits). Most calibrations found here target 1000 nits masters, I believe. I run HarperVision @ Middle Luminance on the Panny and get good results. Most movies are mastered close to that so the difference isn't huge on a lot of disks but ones that are mastered much higher you will see some added details on the high end when you turn the optimizer on and off. Also, a few posts back Orcus explains the difference in some of the more common HDR calibrations floating around this thread.


----------



## Juiced46

Zoltrix said:


> Hi all,
> 
> So I think from reading bits and pieces, the 5040UB (EH-TW8300) can't do 4k and HDR at the same time because of the 10.2Gbps HDMI ports?
> 
> Cheers,
> Zolt


It can do 4K HDR @ 24hz

Console gaming is @ 60hz. So for console gaming it does not work (unless you add a linker) Adding the Linker you can do 4K/60hz HDR, BUT only in 8 bit.


----------



## retryfail

*Apple TV 4K - HDR over HDMI 1.4?*

I'm coming from the 4050 thread here.

With Apple TV 4K Dynamic Matching - "Match Frame Rate" turned on, will 4K/24Hz HDR content from Amazon and Netflix be automatically selected when that content is available from the streaming service, and will 4K/60Hz HDR streaming content be automatically downsampled by the Apple TV to 4K/60Hz SDR to preserve the higher native frame rate? I would imagine that would look better than converting 60Hz content to 24Hz in order to preserve HDR.

The Apple support doc states, "If you turn on either of these settings [Match Frame Rate or Match Dynamic Range], Apple TV will attempt to automatically determine which dynamic ranges or frame rates your television supports." 

I suppose time will tell whether the Apple TV 4K can correctly determine the dynamic ranges and frame rates supported by the 4050/4010, but do any users of the 5040 or other Epson projectors with the same HDMI 1.4/HDCP 2.2 input know whether the Apple TV 4K Match Frame Rate feature is normally able to select 4K/24Hz HDR content, and also convert Dolby+ or HDR10 60Hz to SDR in order to preserve the native frame rate?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

retryfail said:


> I'm coming from the 4050 thread here.
> 
> 
> 
> With Apple TV 4K Dynamic Matching - "Match Frame Rate" turned on, will 4K/24Hz HDR content from Amazon and Netflix be automatically selected when that content is available from the streaming service, and will 4K/60Hz HDR streaming content be automatically downsampled by the Apple TV to 4K/60Hz SDR to preserve the higher native frame rate? I would imagine that would look better than converting 60Hz content to 24Hz in order to preserve HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> The Apple support doc states, "If you turn on either of these settings [Match Frame Rate or Match Dynamic Range], Apple TV will attempt to automatically determine which dynamic ranges or frame rates your television supports."
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose time will tell whether the Apple TV 4K can correctly determine the dynamic ranges and frame rates supported by the 4050/4010, but do any users of the 5040 or other Epson projectors with the same HDMI 1.4/HDCP 2.2 input know whether the Apple TV 4K Match Frame Rate feature is normally able to select 4K/24Hz HDR content, and also convert Dolby+ or HDR10 60Hz to SDR in order to preserve the native frame rate?




Yes it works and works quite well. As for 4K 60hdr Netflix and other major streamers appear to make their full library available so no conversion is necessary it just pulls the highest quality source image your display is capable of. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mar-Vell

Just reading the discussion about Apple TV here and now I’m wondering if trying 24Hz is what I need to do. 

I find that the colours for HDR movies on Apple TV 4K look muted. Not sure if this is because I need to turn on a particular setting or if it’s a limitation of the projector. 

When I go to switch chroma from 4:2:0 to 4:4:4, it says it has switched back to previous format and that I need to make sure my HDMI cable supports HDR. I’m using an Audio Quest Cinnamon that is 18gbps, 4K HDR. 

I’ve been trying HDR 60Hz and SDR 60Hz. Will switching to HDR 24Hz allow for 4:4:4 chroma and help the colours to not look muted?

Thanks and any help or advice is appreciated!


----------



## djb61230

Mar-Vell said:


> Just reading the discussion about Apple TV here and now I’m wondering if trying 24Hz is what I need to do.
> 
> I find that the colours for HDR movies on Apple TV 4K look muted. Not sure if this is because I need to turn on a particular setting or if it’s a limitation of the projector.
> 
> When I go to switch chroma from 4:2:0 to 4:4:4, it says it has switched back to previous format and that I need to make sure my HDMI cable supports HDR. I’m using an Audio Quest Cinnamon that is 18gbps, 4K HDR.
> 
> I’ve been trying HDR 60Hz and SDR 60Hz. Will switching to HDR 24Hz allow for 4:4:4 chroma and help the colours to not look muted?
> 
> Thanks and any help or advice is appreciated!


I think there is a consensus with ATV 4k users to run the UI in SDR 60Hz, and turn on match frame rate and range in the settings. Then when an HDR source is sensed it will switch to the proper frame rate and range - like HDR 24Hz. Its what I do with my 5040UB. Generally audio will start before you see video as it does take a few seconds to switch.

Doing it this way the UI will be snappy too.


----------



## Mar-Vell

Thanks for your response. I already have it set to SDR 60Hz, and match frame rate and range are both turned on. 

Do you find the colour for HDR does not look muted and are you able to switch to 4:4:4 chroma?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Mar-Vell said:


> Thanks for your response. I already have it set to SDR 60Hz, and match frame rate and range are both turned on.
> 
> Do you find the colour for HDR does not look muted and are you able to switch to 4:4:4 chroma?




Yes it auto detects but the max the hdmi 1.4 chips on the 5040 are capable is 4:2:2 12bit 24hz 4k hdr. Here is what I get with range and frame rate matching on Netflix Dolby vision content.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

I’m so excited everyone, guess what I get to do tomorrow? 

Call Epson for my chance to win a working projector (this will be number 4)?!?!?! #refurbroulette 

Projector will power off randomly in the middle of watching something. Started about 2 weeks ago and did it twice again before tonight. But tonight things got swirly and it did it 4 times so I think the problem has gotten worse lol. Epson America really needs to do something for us. At this point I won’t be happy without an additional 2 years of warranty or a serious discount on the new model (like $1500+ serious)...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mar-Vell

That’s also what I get when I check the info menu. But, now that I’ve switched to 4K 24Hz, when I check the settings on Apple TV, it has the chroma listed at 4:4:4. ( Setting I could not get with SDR 60 Hz or HDR 60 Hz)
Is that because the Apple TV is sending 4:4:4 to the Epson, but since the maximum the Epson can output is 4:2:2, that is what it is projecting? 

Also, now that I’ve set it to 24 Hz, the colours for 4K movies seem to be at least a little more vibrant


----------



## roland6465

OrcusVaruna said:


> I’m so excited everyone, guess what I get to do tomorrow?
> 
> Call Epson for my chance to win a working projector (this will be number 4)?!?!?! #refurbroulette
> 
> Projector will power off randomly in the middle of watching something. Started about 2 weeks ago and did it twice again before tonight. But tonight things got swirly and it did it 4 times so I think the problem has gotten worse lol. Epson America really needs to do something for us. At this point I won’t be happy without an additional 2 years of warranty or a serious discount on the new model (like $1500+ serious)...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Damn. Sorry, OV. Having done this same exercise many times, I feel your pain. Maybe it's time for you to jump brands like I did.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

roland6465 said:


> Damn. Sorry, OV. Having done this same exercise many times, I feel your pain. Maybe it's time for you to jump brands like I did.



I still have another year+ left on my warranty and buying a new projector would be painful when this one still has 12 months of interest free financing left on it . I should have just went with my gut and bought the Optoma UHZ65 as the real life picture was close enough in the side by sides I did viewing actual content and it has a solid state light source... O well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## djb61230

Mar-Vell said:


> Thanks for your response. I already have it set to SDR 60Hz, and match frame rate and range are both turned on.
> 
> Do you find the colour for HDR does not look muted and are you able to switch to 4:4:4 chroma?


To be honest I think I tried it at some point the last year but I don't remember if it synced up. I had read at some point that bluray was 4:2:0 anyway so I didn't think 4:4:4 was so important. I'm certainly no expert and others may have better info or a different opinion.

Here is an article that talks about chroma subsampling:

https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/chroma-subsampling

But to answer your question, no I think the color for HDR is very good in my setup. Perhaps an "eye of the beholder" thing though. I watch HDR content using the Digital Cinema preset and have calibrated using Chromapure and an xrite pro colorimeter with the Masciola test patterns.


----------



## Azekecse

OrcusVaruna said:


> I’m so excited everyone, guess what I get to do tomorrow?
> 
> Call Epson for my chance to win a working projector (this will be number 4)?!?!?! #refurbroulette
> 
> Projector will power off randomly in the middle of watching something. Started about 2 weeks ago and did it twice again before tonight. But tonight things got swirly and it did it 4 times so I think the problem has gotten worse lol. Epson America really needs to do something for us. At this point I won’t be happy without an additional 2 years of warranty or a serious discount on the new model (like $1500+ serious)...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wow OV, sorry to hear that...Maybe now Epson has fully rectified the capacitor issues associated with the power supply and this will be the one...Good Luck sir.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## nwbearcat21

So I wondered what settings you guys use for watching sports, mainly football. The projector looks great with pretty much everything I watch but it just seems to be lacking for live football games. NBC looks the best but other channels not as great. I am watching on a white silver ticket screen in a pretty light controlled room. Just want the picture to look the best as possible as I watch a lot of sports on it. So any tips or settings would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Hawkmarket

nwbearcat21 said:


> So I wondered what settings you guys use for watching sports, mainly football. The projector looks great with pretty much everything I watch but it just seems to be lacking for live football games. NBC looks the best but other channels not as great. I am watching on a white silver ticket screen in a pretty light controlled room. Just want the picture to look the best as possible as I watch a lot of sports on it. So any tips or settings would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!



Although I am currently using an Epson 3700 I think I can speak on this as a football enthusiast. Football broadcast over cable seems to suffer from compression worse than anything else I watch. You have a wider field being shown with 22 guys running around in any given frame. My guess is the close up shots you think everything looks clear again. Walk up close to your flat screen TV when a football game is on and what you see on your projector screen will appear on your TV as well. You might try on OTA antenna for NFL if you can get the games that way or for college see if streaming helps at all. I have found the worst for me is the Saturday night college football game on Fox.


----------



## westbergjoakim

OrcusVaruna said:


> When setting brightness is is important the room is totally dark and you switch your location and angle to the screen as you set. Sitting straight on only can cause optical illusions in which your eye doesn’t pick up the blinking from the static background. Moving around changes the angle of incidence of the light hitting your eye and can impact how you would set brightness by 1-5 clicks in some cases. Also make sure the auto iris is set to off during all calibration and that hdmi range is set to expanded. If you need a better explanation calman has some great YouTube video tutorials.





westbergjoakim said:


> Thanks! I have always done as your explination. Should Epson White be set to on or off during this? With off, I get down to 46, and when I turn it on, I can't see any blinkning and have to turn it up to 57.
> 
> Have you test your settings from Black and White Clipping in APL Clipping to see if they match or if you have to turn brightness up to se 17 blinkning?
> 
> Which one should I go with? With Black and White Clipping i get darker and more vivid picture. Set after APL Clipping I get better contrast and can see more details, but it gets little more flat and not the same blacklevel. Here I have to turn up brightness to 60 to se 17 blinkning.


Didn't get answer so I repost. Anyone? 

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## evilmonstertruk

Hawkmarket said:


> Although I am currently using an Epson 3700 I think I can speak on this as a football enthusiast. Football broadcast over cable seems to suffer from compression worse than anything else I watch. You have a wider field being shown with 22 guys running around in any given frame. My guess is the close up shots you think everything looks clear again. Walk up close to your flat screen TV when a football game is on and what you see on your projector screen will appear on your TV as well. You might try on OTA antenna for NFL if you can get the games that way or for college see if streaming helps at all. I have found the worst for me is the Saturday night college football game on Fox.


Its everything. Cable, Dish. The only thing that has made football look a little bit better is Hulu TV. Still not great but better. Everything else on Hulu TV though is the way all TV should look

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

westbergjoakim said:


> Didn't get answer so I repost. Anyone?
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk




Must have missed it my apologies. Superwhite is supposed to be on (in one of the settings I posted I mistyped this) and yes I get blinking all the way down to 17. Unfortunately this point will be different for each unit as gamma, color temperature and the cms are all very tightly linked on this projector. additionally the minor differences in each units starting color temperature can cause a 5+ point swing in brightness once I adjust out any pushes. Generally the units I have used have been pretty consistent within a point or two on each value. The exception for me has been brightness which is all over the place after I tweak the other cms, temp and gamma values. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Since I was pulling my most recent settings out of the projector before I send it in I thought I’d share. Can’t remember if I posted these or not but this is what I have been running for the past few months after I busted out the meter and calibrated to robs most recent gamma. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## airbag41

*Soap opera effect on ATV 4k?*

So everything has been going great with my Epson and ATB 4k then out of the blue my movies now look like they all have soap opera effect turned on. I have match frame rate and dynamic range turned on but always have. Did I miss an update of something in Apple causing this?


----------



## Azekecse

airbag41 said:


> So everything has been going great with my Epson and ATB 4k then out of the blue my movies now look like they all have soap opera effect turned on. I have match frame rate and dynamic range turned on but always have. Did I miss an update of something in Apple causing this?


There was a TVOS 12 software update a few days ago, that you may have missed. You may want to check your settings again and restart your Apple TV. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## MJ DOOM

Can this projector accept 1080p HDR/10b at 60hz?


----------



## Iceman24

How do you access the web interface on the 5040UB? I haven't been able to access, just said something about couldn't access when I tried.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

So something interesting about the tvos12 update, it is apparently what was causing my issue with the unit powering down. Epson called me today and told me they held all warranty replacement shipments until they could confirm if an Apple tv4k was connected to the projector. Since I did they held my shipment and they told me tv os12 apparently has a glitch in it that causes the unit to send out an ir signal approximately every hour which powers down the projector. The current fix is to turn the auto sleep function for the Apple TV to Never. I did this when I got home and the projector has been running perfectly for the past 4 hours... So for now I guess I am removed from the refurb roulette game. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## z06gal

OrcusVaruna said:


> So something interesting about the tvos12 update, it is apparently what was causing my issue with the unit powering down. Epson called me today and told me they held all warranty replacement shipments until they could confirm if an Apple tv4k was connected to the projector. Since I did they held my shipment and they told me tv os12 apparently has a glitch in it that causes the unit to send out an ir signal approximately every hour which powers down the projector. The current fix is to turn the auto sleep function for the Apple TV to Never. I did this when I got home and the projector has been running perfectly for the past 4 hours... So for now I guess I am removed from the refurb roulette game.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I had this issue with an Nvidia Shield tv. If I left it 5 minutes, the projector would be off. I thought something was wrong with the projector until I switched devices. I thought the Shield tv was defective somehow...lol So far I have not experienced it with an Apple TV 4k with TvOS 12 but if I do I will know the culprit. Thanks for posting this


----------



## JewDaddy

Question to Apple TV owners. Can you watch Netflix, Vudu and and other streaming apps in 4K, 24HZ and HDR WITHOUT the use of a Linker? Didn’t know if it was possible to get 4K HDR without banding and without a Linker on a newer Apple TV. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JewDaddy said:


> Question to Apple TV owners. Can you watch Netflix, Vudu and and other streaming apps in 4K, 24HZ and HDR WITHOUT the use of a Linker? Didn’t know if it was possible to get 4K HDR without banding and without a Linker on a newer Apple TV.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Yes comes across as 24hz 4:2:2 12bit HDR with range and frame rate match enabled for me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes comes across as 24hz 4:2:2 12bit HDR with range and frame rate match enabled for me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Is there banding when you do it that way?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mar-Vell

I’m finally trying to do the firmware update and I must confess that I’m having a lot of trouble with it. 

I’ve downloaded the update onto a USB drive and have followed Epson’s instructions of unplugging the projector, inserting the drive, and holding down the power button while plugging the projector back in. Unfortunately nothing happens, and the projector just goes into standby mode. So, I spoke with Epson tech support and they said I should take the projector to one of their authorized service providers, as it must need to be repaired. This morning, I did take it in, but the authorized service provider said the reason the update is not working is because I’ve been using the USB type A port, rather than the mini USB type B port marked ‘service’. They did not have a mini USB type B, but said I could just go pick one up at Best Buy. Unfortunately, I’ve now been to a few stores and couldn’t find one of these. 

So, I called Epson tech support again to ask if they could recommend where to pick one up, and they are now telling me that I in fact don’t need a type B drive and that a regular type A will work just fine. 

I’m really confused. Does it matter which port I use?

Did anyone else have this much trouble doing the firmware update, which according to instructions, sounds to be quite simple?


----------



## Valleyboy

OrcusVaruna said:


> So something interesting about the tvos12 update, it is apparently what was causing my issue with the unit powering down. Epson called me today and told me they held all warranty replacement shipments until they could confirm if an Apple tv4k was connected to the projector. Since I did they held my shipment and they told me tv os12 apparently has a glitch in it that causes the unit to send out an ir signal approximately every hour which powers down the projector. The current fix is to turn the auto sleep function for the Apple TV to Never. I did this when I got home and the projector has been running perfectly for the past 4 hours... So for now I guess I am removed from the refurb roulette game.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you so much Orcus, without your posting I would have had a heart attack. My projector shut down for the first time, but saw your posting and realized it was hooked up to the ATV. So are we going to have to leave the ATV on at all times, not let it sleep? Isn't that gonna make it hot?


----------



## Mike Johnson 3

I apologize if this is inappropriate for this thread, but I'd like to know what you guys think regarding a 5040UBe I'm selling that has been working flawlessly since the day I got it early last year...

It has about 560 hours on it.

Question: is there a stress test or something I can do to push the projector to see if it could possibly have a power supply issue? I just don't get why I haven't had any issues with it since so many people supposedly have? I even called Epson with my serial # X33C6X0062L expecting there to be a known list of faulty ones and they said if nothing has gone wrong up until now then I shouldn't expect failure and not to worry.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Valleyboy said:


> Thank you so much Orcus, without your posting I would have had a heart attack. My projector shut down for the first time, but saw your posting and realized it was hooked up to the ATV. So are we going to have to leave the ATV on at all times, not let it sleep? Isn't that gonna make it hot?



Even if it does it won’t damage the unit. The Apple TVs use the same processor and most of the same components as iPhones, which are designed for 24/7 use and standby. So I wouldn’t worry about it being on all the time or if it gets a little hot. The main downside is its not environmentally friendly...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JewDaddy said:


> Is there banding when you do it that way?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Not that I notice and I don’t think even in theory subsampled 12bit color will cause banding on our equipment. It is my understanding that it should be as good as 4:4:4 12bit color. But I could be wrong and am always open for an education lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## whmacs

Mar-Vell said:


> I’m finally trying to do the firmware update and I must confess that I’m having a lot of trouble with it.
> 
> I’ve downloaded the update onto a USB drive and have followed Epson’s instructions of unplugging the projector, inserting the drive, and holding down the power button while plugging the projector back in. Unfortunately nothing happens, and the projector just goes into standby mode. So, I spoke with Epson tech support and they said I should take the projector to one of their authorized service providers, as it must need to be repaired. This morning, I did take it in, but the authorized service provider said the reason the update is not working is because I’ve been using the USB type A port, rather than the mini USB type B port marked ‘service’. They did not have a mini USB type B, but said I could just go pick one up at Best Buy. Unfortunately, I’ve now been to a few stores and couldn’t find one of these.
> 
> So, I called Epson tech support again to ask if they could recommend where to pick one up, and they are now telling me that I in fact don’t need a type B drive and that a regular type A will work just fine.
> 
> I’m really confused. Does it matter which port I use?
> 
> Did anyone else have this much trouble doing the firmware update, which according to instructions, sounds to be quite simple?


Hi Mar-Vell,
The USB Type A port is the correct port to use. Make sure tha the USB stick is formatted as Fat32. Also did you unzip the firmware before copying it to the USB stick? Have you tried a different USB stick?
There are some good instructions here

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9nej1liwh..._Function_Manual_USB_memory_stick_EN.pdf?dl=0

Regards,
Stephen


----------



## Mar-Vell

whmacs said:


> Mar-Vell said:
> 
> 
> 
> I’m finally trying to do the firmware update and I must confess that I’m having a lot of trouble with it.
> 
> I’ve downloaded the update onto a USB drive and have followed Epson’s instructions of unplugging the projector, inserting the drive, and holding down the power button while plugging the projector back in. Unfortunately nothing happens, and the projector just goes into standby mode. So, I spoke with Epson tech support and they said I should take the projector to one of their authorized service providers, as it must need to be repaired. This morning, I did take it in, but the authorized service provider said the reason the update is not working is because I’ve been using the USB type A port, rather than the mini USB type B port marked ‘service’. They did not have a mini USB type B, but said I could just go pick one up at Best Buy. Unfortunately, I’ve now been to a few stores and couldn’t find one of these.
> 
> So, I called Epson tech support again to ask if they could recommend where to pick one up, and they are now telling me that I in fact don’t need a type B drive and that a regular type A will work just fine.
> 
> I’m really confused. Does it matter which port I use?
> 
> Did anyone else have this much trouble doing the firmware update, which according to instructions, sounds to be quite simple?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Mar-Vell,
> The USB Type A port is the correct port to use. Make sure tha the USB stick is formatted as Fat32. Also did you unzip the firmware before copying it to the USB stick? Have you tried a different USB stick?
> There are some good instructions here
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/9nej1liwh..._Function_Manual_USB_memory_stick_EN.pdf?dl=0
> 
> Regards,
> Stephen
Click to expand...


Hi Stephen,

Thanks a lot for the reply!
The drive is formatted to Fat32. It is a rather cheap one, so maybe I should a better quality one. I do have a few others I could try. Not sure if it matters, but they’re of the same lower quality. 

I’ve tried it both zipped and unzipped, but the result is the same. 

Also, I’m using a Mac to download it onto the USB if that makes any difference.


----------



## ccotenj

Valleyboy said:


> Thank you so much Orcus, without your posting I would have had a heart attack. My projector shut down for the first time, but saw your posting and realized it was hooked up to the ATV. So are we going to have to leave the ATV on at all times, not let it sleep? Isn't that gonna make it hot?


nah, they are designed to be left on all the time.

i use mine as a homekit hub as well, it hasn’t been off in forever.


----------



## Mar-Vell

I’ve now tried 3 different USB flash drives I have at home, but none will start the firmware. I’m going to call Epson and arrange to bring it to their authorized service again for repair.


----------



## Mar-Vell

OrcusVaruna said:


> So something interesting about the tvos12 update, it is apparently what was causing my issue with the unit powering down. Epson called me today and told me they held all warranty replacement shipments until they could confirm if an Apple tv4k was connected to the projector. Since I did they held my shipment and they told me tv os12 apparently has a glitch in it that causes the unit to send out an ir signal approximately every hour which powers down the projector. The current fix is to turn the auto sleep function for the Apple TV to Never. I did this when I got home and the projector has been running perfectly for the past 4 hours... So for now I guess I am removed from the refurb roulette game.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The beta for tvOS 12.1 is out now. It will be interesting to see if this bug has been fixed. If not, I’ll let Apple know so it hopefully can be for the final release of tvOS 12.1


----------



## rupedogg24

westbergjoakim said:


> Didn't get answer so I repost. Anyone?
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


I dont know if this will solve it, but it did for me. I switched HDMI cords and that solved my problem. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jt7272

MJ DOOM said:


> Can this projector accept 1080p HDR/10b at 60hz?


Yes. Playstation 4 will output 1080p HDR10 for some games and they all seem to work just fine for me. The 6040ub properly recognizes the signal and displays using the chosen mode (Auto, Auto Bright, etc.).


----------



## DavidinGA

Any 5040 owners seen it next to Epson's 4000? Thoughts on how they compare? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

DavidinGA said:


> Any 5040 owners seen it next to Epson's 4000? Thoughts on how they compare?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I haven't due to the cost differential, but just so you know, Epson has announced the 4010 now.


----------



## joel dickman

*projectiondream.com did a comparison*



DavidinGA said:


> Any 5040 owners seen it next to Epson's 4000? Thoughts on how they compare?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



There is a German website called* projectiondream.com* that did a comparison of the Epson projectors under their respective European model numbers. They said the 5040UB (9300 in Europe) had significantly better contrast performance. If you are a bat cave movie watcher, the better contrast over the 4000 / 4040 model makes it worth the higher price. If you watch with some ambient light, perhaps not.

I have a 5040UB and have been very satisfied with it over a period of about one and a half years. But reading about the power supply failures others have experienced makes me worry. Hopefully Epson will correct this problem with the new 5050UB that will likely become available soon. The new model will probably play nice with 4K games and streaming services by using the 18 gbps chipset too. 

Happy viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> Any 5040 owners seen it next to Epson's 4000? Thoughts on how they compare?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



I have seen them both calibrated side by side and the difference is enough to warrant spending the extra $500 for the 5040 especially if you watch a lot of movies and tv shows with dark scenes. I will say though outside of contrast performance color handling is almost identical. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

OrcusVaruna said:


> I have seen them both calibrated side by side and the difference is enough to warrant spending the extra $500 for the 5040 especially if you watch a lot of movies and tv shows with dark scenes. I will say though outside of contrast performance color handling is almost identical.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What about a difference of $800? That's the difference in what they are selling for today ($1600 & $2400)

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> What about a difference of $800? That's the difference in what they are selling for today ($1600 & $2400)
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




It is for me but I can’t make that decision for you. What I will say is a calibrated 5040 is the best projector, picture quality wise, you can buy for under $4k period. A calibrated 4000 is not. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dvdwilly3

Mar-Vell said:


> I’ve now tried 3 different USB flash drives I have at home, but none will start the firmware. I’m going to call Epson and arrange to bring it to their authorized service again for repair.


Make sure that the firmware file is in the root directory. Some USB drives have their utilities in the root directories and by default copy whatever you are copying into a subdirectory.

If the USB drive does that the Epson will never find the file in the subdirectory. It has to be in the root directory.


----------



## --Sclaws

I had the 4000 for a week as my first projector, but the nagging thought of better contrast was too much (I'm weak and obsessive) so I returned it for a 5040. I could see a clear improvement so for me it was worth it. 



DavidinGA said:


> Any 5040 owners seen it next to Epson's 4000? Thoughts on how they compare?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

--Sclaws said:


> I had the 4000 for a week as my first projector, but the nagging thought of better contrast was too much (I'm weak and obsessive) so I returned it for a 5040. I could see a clear improvement so for me it was worth it.


Clear improvement in a bat-cave or ambient light area? Both?

I'm debating the 4000 vs 4010 (for $400 more) vs 5040 (for $800 more). I saw a projector review where they had the 4000 vs 5040 and they only saw a slight contrast difference (not night and day different). The biggest difference was black levels. Weird since everyone said the CR is way different between them...

Or...wait for the 5050 and pay way more... 


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## MJ DOOM

Epson-EH-TW9300W/5040










Epson-EH-TW7300/4000










Thought about getting a Epson4000/4010 but it has worst contrast than my Benq 2050. The Epson 5040 power supply issue is a major turnoff.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> Clear improvement in a bat-cave or ambient light area? Both?
> 
> I'm debating the 4000 vs 4010 (for $400 more) vs 5040 (for $800 more). I saw a projector review where they had the 4000 vs 5040 and they only saw a slight contrast difference (not night and day different). The biggest difference was black levels. Weird since everyone said the CR is way different between them...
> 
> Or...wait for the 5050 and pay way more...
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




That review is hog wash imo because no one should put a 5040 in a non dedicated bat cave or a room with ambient light and pair it with a matte white screen. Under those circumstances of course the 5040 would only appear a smidge better then the 4000 if at all. Heck even a jvc or a 60k Sony wouldn’t net much difference under those conditions. Paired with a proper alr screen in that environment the 5040 drubs a 4000’s contrast performance. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## --Sclaws

DavidinGA said:


> Clear improvement in a bat-cave or ambient light area? Both?
> 
> I'm debating the 4000 vs 4010 (for $400 more) vs 5040 (for $800 more). I saw a projector review where they had the 4000 vs 5040 and they only saw a slight contrast difference (not night and day different). The biggest difference was black levels. Weird since everyone said the CR is way different between them...
> 
> Or...wait for the 5050 and pay way more...
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



Sorry guess maybe I should have said black level but it wasn't based on actual measurements. I remember testing it with a couple "space" movies (IIRC a few Star Trek flicks and The Martian?) and noticed an improvement after replacing the 4000, but it was hardly scientific at the time. Overall image was just more satisfying to my eyes. 

My room has ambient light but I put in some blinds to control it better. Its pretty dark when I need it to be.


----------



## DavidinGA

Gotcha, so you saw a big improvement in black levels, not so much in contrast...?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## --Sclaws

DavidinGA said:


> Gotcha, so you saw a big improvement in black levels, not so much in contrast...?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


It was big enough for me to justify the additional expense, so yeah.


----------



## jnation

OrcusVaruna said:


> That review is hog wash imo because no one should put a 5040 in a non dedicated bat cave or a room with ambient light and pair it with a matte white screen. Under those circumstances of course the 5040 would only appear a smidge better then the 4000 if at all. Heck even a jvc or a 60k Sony wouldn’t net much difference under those conditions. Paired with a proper alr screen in that environment the 5040 drubs a 4000’s contrast performance.


 On the contrary, that is the exact point that site is making, i.e. if you have ambient light and/or light colored surfaces then you seriously compromise the contrast ratio. They are not saying the 5040 isn't worth getting, only that you won't get your money's worth if you compromise how its used.
They reinforce that with this article http://projectiondream.com/en/contrast-projector-environment/
and show why viewers should care about light control with this article http://projectiondream.com/en/movie-brightness-adl-contrast-measurements/


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jnation said:


> On the contrary, that is the exact point that site is making, i.e. if you have ambient light and/or light colored surfaces then you seriously compromise the contrast ratio. They are not saying the 5040 isn't worth getting, only that you won't get your money's worth if you compromise how its used.
> They reinforce that with this article http://projectiondream.com/en/contrast-projector-environment/
> and show why viewers should care about light control with this article http://projectiondream.com/en/movie-brightness-adl-contrast-measurements/



With the proper screen you still get the benefit. My point was they did not use a proper screen in that comp for the environment. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

jnation said:


> On the contrary, that is the exact point that site is making, i.e. if you have ambient light and/or light colored surfaces then you seriously compromise the contrast ratio. They are not saying the 5040 isn't worth getting, only that you won't get your money's worth if you compromise how its used.
> They reinforce that with this article http://projectiondream.com/en/contrast-projector-environment/
> and show why viewers should care about light control with this article http://projectiondream.com/en/movie-brightness-adl-contrast-measurements/


I just reread the comparison and they seem to say even in a dark environment the contrast difference wasn't that great, but the black levels were very different. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jnation

OrcusVaruna said:


> With the proper screen you still get the benefit. My point was they did not use a proper screen in that comp for the environment.


 Its not that they used the wrong screen its that there are two ways to approach projection, control the room or control the screen or perhaps a combination of both. In their article they had the ability to control the room and demonstrated how much difference it makes when doing so and why users should do so to get the best from their projectors. Their goal was not to demonstrate the use of ALR screens or to show how ALR screens might mitigate a lack of optimum room. 

You are advocating changing the screen to counter the affects of ambient light, including reflected light from light colored walls and ceiling etc. For some ALR may be the only acceptable solution because they do not have the freedom to control the room. If people have the ability to control the room then that would be the optimum approach. ALR is not the proper approach if people can control the room.

The points they make are important because even purchasers of very expensive projectors have failed to understand how important room control is when they had the ability to do so and so failed to appreciate why contrast was important and so highly valued.


----------



## jnation

DavidinGA said:


> I just reread the comparison and they seem to say even in a dark environment the contrast difference wasn't that great, but the black levels were very different.


 No they are showing how important contrast is in the right environment not just black levels, I recommend this thread from which the tables above were taken if you haven't already read it http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/


What they are showing in the other links is that for films below 10% average display luminance (ADL), and even as high as 20% ADL, contrast is very important. Their survey of a number of major titles in their sample of films showed, "80% of all movie pictures [were] below 13% ADL luminance and 50% of all pictures below EVEN 5% ADL luminance." Bottom line is that contrast is important to seeing a film as it was intended but you need to have the environment to show it. I can't speak to how well ALR screens can do this but its why those seeking perfection focus on eliminating even the smallest of light sources or reflections in their theaters.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jnation said:


> Its not that they used the wrong screen its that there are two ways to approach projection, control the room or control the screen or perhaps a combination of both. In their article they had the ability to control the room and demonstrated how much difference it makes when doing so and why users should do so to get the best from their projectors. Their goal was not to demonstrate the use of ALR screens or to show how ALR screens might mitigate a lack of optimum room.
> 
> You are advocating changing the screen to counter the affects of ambient light, including reflected light from light colored walls and ceiling etc. For some ALR may be the only acceptable solution because they do not have the freedom to control the room. If people have the ability to control the room then that would be the optimum approach. ALR is not the proper approach if people can control the room.
> 
> The points they make are important because even purchasers of very expensive projectors have failed to understand how important room control is when they had the ability to do so and so failed to appreciate why contrast was important and so highly valued.



I understand the different approaches to projection just fine but your missing my point. The reviewer could only claim they are not that far off contrast wise if he is blind as a bat. In a light controlled room the difference is stark as I have seen these projectors side by side, calibrated in a very high end demo theater. What I was saying was that even in a living room environment (like I use a 5040 in) you can still get to 90% of a theater image if paired with the right screen. Just don’t go putting a 5040 in a living room with a 1.1 matte white screen and expect those deep inky blacks. But pair the 5040 with at minimum a Cinegrey 3D or if you have the cheese a black diamond or dark star 9 and the image can be nearly as good as a dedicated theater. 

Also I am very strongly for alr screens for most situations even when you can implement a modicum of light control. When I did ht consulting back in the day I would only sell white screens in a custom movie theater. For any other situation an alr screen is the way to go especially with how good the new materials are. Gone are the days of silver 1.8 gain hot spot messes. Even cheap alr screens like the Cinegrey 3D have virtually no hot-spotting and excellent off angle viewing. The argument of matte white is batter because it’s more natural and reproduces directors intent is dated with the materials we have available today and a decent calibration. But I digress this has gotten way off topic now for the 5040 thread. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

jnation said:


> No they are showing how important contrast is in the right environment not just black levels, I recommend this thread from which the tables above were taken if you haven't already read it http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/
> 
> 
> What they are showing in the other links is that for films below 10% average display luminance (ADL), and even as high as 20% ADL, contrast is very important. Their survey of a number of major titles in their sample of films showed, "80% of all movie pictures [were] below 13% ADL luminance and 50% of all pictures below EVEN 5% ADL luminance." Bottom line is that contrast is important to seeing a film as it was intended but you need to have the environment to show it. I can't speak to how well ALR screens can do this but its why those seeking perfection focus on eliminating even the smallest of light sources or reflections in their theaters.


Here's my dilemma and question...

My room is a 2nd living room area that measures 14.5ft x 22ft. Pj mounted to shoot longways. Walls are light Grey, ceiling is white and carpet is tan. I am planning to make a black curtain setup that will cover the two side walls and ceiling all out about 5ft from the screen. Will only watch movies at night, so no other ambient light to worry about from outside windows. Will put down a dark (hopefully black) throw rug on the floor out in front of the screen too. 

Will this create enough of a cave environment to see the CR benefits of the 5040 over the 4000/4010? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> Here's my dilemma and question...
> 
> My room is a 2nd living room area that measures 14.5ft x 22ft. Pj mounted to shoot longways. Walls are light Grey, ceiling is white and carpet is tan. I am planning to make a black curtain setup that will cover the two side walls and ceiling all out about 5ft from the screen. Will only watch movies at night, so no other ambient light to worry about from outside windows. Will put down a dark (hopefully black) throw rug on the floor out in front of the screen too.
> 
> Will this create enough of a cave environment to see the CR benefits of the 5040 over the 4000/4010?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




As I’ve said a dozen times with the right screen yes with the wrong one no. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

OrcusVaruna said:


> As I’ve said a dozen times with the right screen yes with the wrong one no.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Ok, so since I am using a manual pulldown 1.1 gain white screen I'll take that as a "no" lol.

I don't have a dedicated room and I have little kids that would might damage a good fixed display, so I'm kinda stuck working with what I have. No real benefit to be seen in the 5040 over the 4000 in my setup using curtains around the front 5ft off the display then? I'm definitely not interested in dropping an extra $800+ on the 5040 over the 4000 if I can't capitalize on it...



Will I still see some improvement in CR with curtains around the screen if using the 4000?


----------



## jnation

DavidinGA said:


> Here's my dilemma and question...
> 
> My room is a 2nd living room area that measures 14.5ft x 22ft. Pj mounted to shoot longways. Walls are light Grey, ceiling is white and carpet is tan. I am planning to make a black curtain setup that will cover the two side walls and ceiling all out about 5ft from the screen. Will only watch movies at night, so no other ambient light to worry about from outside windows. Will put down a dark (hopefully black) throw rug on the floor out in front of the screen too.
> 
> Will this create enough of a cave environment to see the CR benefits of the 5040 over the 4000/4010?


 The attached image from the previously linked review might be helpful in making your decision. Note how even in their "living room" test environment the TW9300 starts from a much higher contrast ratio vs the TW7300 and stays significantly higher through most of the first 5% ADL which is significant given movie content per their survey. You are planning to treat the first 5 feet of the room so your room will be better than their living room, the treatment would benefit both projectors and open up the gap between them regarding contrast.

If you don't already have a screen then an ALR version seems the best choice for your circumstances to improve the image, especially if you ever want to watch in light summer evenings or for sports events during the day. If you do already have a screen then you can see how the new projector would work with that before going ahead with an ALR purchase.

Currently US MSRP is $2,000 for the 4010 and $2,500 for the 5040, on that basis I would go 5040. However, it seems likely there will be a 5050 given the launch of the TW9400 in Europe so you might either wait for that or for Epson to drop the price on the 5040 as they have for the 4000.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> Ok, so since I am using a manual pulldown 1.1 gain white screen I'll take that as a "no" lol.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a dedicated room and I have little kids that would might damage a good fixed display, so I'm kinda stuck working with what I have. No real benefit to be seen in the 5040 over the 4000 in my setup using curtains around the front 5ft off the display then? I'm definitely not interested in dropping an extra $800+ on the 5040 over the 4000 if I can't capitalize on it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will I still see some improvement in CR with curtains around the screen if using the 4000?



Correct that would be a “No” if you want to continue using that 1.1 white screen. Almost all of the major alr manufacturers make pull down versions of their alr materials though if you did want to go with the 5040. For the room you describe a Cinegrey 3 or 5D would be a nice pairing at a not life altering price. As for your question on contrast making the room darker will always make a difference up until the point where reflections are brighter then the ambient light. At which point this occurs depends on your particular room. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

OrcusVaruna said:


> Correct that would be a “No” if you want to continue using that 1.1 white screen. Almost all of the major alr manufacturers make pull down versions of their alr materials though if you did want to go with the 5040. For the room you describe a Cinegrey 3 or 5D would be a nice pairing at a not life altering price. As for your question on contrast making the room darker will always make a difference up until the point where reflections are brighter then the ambient light. At which point this occurs depends on your particular room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok, thanks for the info.


I have a 150" screen now, so I might have to sell a kidney to get into a similar sized pulldown alr screen. lol


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> Ok, thanks for the info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 150" screen now, so I might have to sell a kidney to get into a similar sized pulldown alr screen. lol



Yes that would be the case lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes that would be the case lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I saw a website where it showed that they do make a cinegrey 150" pull down, but I couldn't ever find a site that listed it and it's price. Have you seen it anywhere? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> I saw a website where it showed that they do make a cinegrey 150" pull down, but I couldn't ever find a site that listed it and it's price. Have you seen it anywhere?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




They likely do I believe for the larger sizes you have to contact elite directly for a quote. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

OrcusVaruna said:


> They likely do I believe for the larger sizes you have to contact elite directly for a quote.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Which probably means if you have to ask how much it costs, it's not for me....lol

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> Which probably means if you have to ask how much it costs, it's not for me....lol
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




Not necessarily, others have gotten large screen quotes from elite and they are usually not that crazy. You’d probably be looking around 15-1800 for a 150” Cinegrey. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## qyqgpower

Sanjay said:


> I downloaded the respective files from the various download links and based on the Hash check, it seems safe to state that the firmware update for the US Home Cinema 5040UB/Pro Cinema 6040UB & the EU EH-TW9300 & the Asia EH-TW9300 &the Asia EH-TW8300 are identical.
> 
> Home Cinema 5040UB/Pro Cinema 6040UB | Firmware v1.11/1.11
> Posted: ??? (DD/MM/YYYY)
> Posted File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_111.bin
> Posted File Size: File Size: 40.0 MB (4,20,11,120 bytes)
> CRC32: 4F4D14B9
> MD5: A7B0B8F8CE45D8E0C4E8C4EE36E4F5F8
> SHA-1: BD5FFE3631E1121D3948E07FAA7E5D5EC964B533
> ------------------------
> EH-TW9300 (EU) | Firmware v1.11
> Posted: 08/12/2017 (DD/MM/YYYY)
> Posted File Name: epson628939eu.zip
> Posted File Size: 40.7 MB (4,27,59,341 bytes)
> Unzipped File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_111.bin
> Unzipped File Dated: 30/11/2017 11:32AM
> Unzipped File Size: 40.0 MB (4,20,11,120 bytes)
> CRC32: 4F4D14B9
> MD5: A7B0B8F8CE45D8E0C4E8C4EE36E4F5F8
> SHA-1: BD5FFE3631E1121D3948E07FAA7E5D5EC964B533
> ------------------------
> EH-TW8300 (Asia) | Firmware v1.11
> Posted: 13/12/2017 (DD/MM/YYYY)
> Posted File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_UM(EN).zip
> Posted File Size: 40.7 MB (4,27,59,341 bytes)
> Unzipped File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_111.bin
> Unzipped File Dated: 30/11/2017 11:32AM
> Unzipped File Size: 40.0 MB (4,20,11,120 bytes)
> CRC32: 4F4D14B9
> MD5: A7B0B8F8CE45D8E0C4E8C4EE36E4F5F8
> SHA-1: BD5FFE3631E1121D3948E07FAA7E5D5EC964B533
> ------------------------
> EH-TW9300 (Asia) | Firmware v1.11
> Posted: 13/12/2017 (DD/MM/YYYY)
> Posted File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_UM(EN).zip
> Posted File Size: 40.7 MB (4,27,59,341 bytes)
> Unzipped File Name: EPSONPJ_t5111_111.bin
> Unzipped File Dated: 30/11/2017 11:32AM
> Unzipped File Size: 40.0 MB (4,20,11,120 bytes)
> CRC32: 4F4D14B9
> MD5: A7B0B8F8CE45D8E0C4E8C4EE36E4F5F8
> SHA-1: BD5FFE3631E1121D3948E07FAA7E5D5EC964B533


tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp

seems that the au site released a new firmware: 1.13
just select Projectors -- TW8300/9300 -- All

EPSONPJ_t5113_111.zip
Size: 42.29 Mb
Posted: 25/9/2018

btw, 1.11/1.12(from EU Site)/1.13(from AU Site) all have different hash value, so these are definitely different fw version

EPSONPJ_t5111_111.bin BD5FFE3631E1121D3948E07FAA7E5D5EC964B533	42,011,120
EPSONPJ_t5112_111.bin 66480B8A65CE4CB04ED3AB735B5D16DFE82C1F37	42,011,120
EPSONPJ_t5113_111.bin 805113E4FFDB3E23E98F19E89DB00C8ECB54D06B	42,828,320

just wondering can I update my chinese version CH-TW8300 with these firmware  (no new fw would ever be released here)


----------



## ClayM325

Is the Apple TV still the best streaming device for the 5040? From what I was reading in earlier posts it seemed to be but just wanted to verify before purchasing


----------



## roland6465

ClayM325 said:


> Is the Apple TV still the best streaming device for the 5040? From what I was reading in earlier posts it seemed to be but just wanted to verify before purchasing


Can of worms has been opened!

AppleTV is great, but you won't get 4K HDR YouTube, or 5.1 from a lot of content on Amazon Prime.


----------



## Dave Harper

ClayM325 said:


> Is the Apple TV still the best streaming device for the 5040? From what I was reading in earlier posts it seemed to be but just wanted to verify before purchasing



The nVidia Shield is certainly a worthy contender for that role as well.


----------



## JewDaddy

roland6465 said:


> Can of worms has been opened!
> 
> 
> 
> AppleTV is great, but you won't get 4K HDR YouTube, or 5.1 from a lot of content on Amazon Prime.




What about 4K HDR with Netflix?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## misterg51

JewDaddy said:


> What about 4K HDR with Netflix?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes on mine anyway with 4K SDR with matching frame rates etc.


----------



## Skylinestar

How much clarity do you lose if the horizontal / vertical lens shift is at the extreme end?


----------



## raf77

roland6465 said:


> Can of worms has been opened!
> 
> AppleTV is great, but you won't get 4K HDR YouTube, or 5.1 from a lot of content on Amazon Prime.


You get 5.1 from amazon.de video.


----------



## Tom Riddle

Hey guys and gals!

I’m down to decision time on what components to put in my dedicated HT room, and I’m still struggling on projectors. I can get an amazing deal on the JVC DLA-RS540U, but it’s still well over the price of the 5040U. I’m not sure if the JVC is really worth the additional price. Some info I can’t seem to find - does the 5040 have full 18 gbps HDMI (I’m pretty sure it does) and does it support HDR 10 and HLG? I would really love some feedback on the HDR and how well it looks - I know I’ve asked befor, but there may be some others that could chime in. How are the blacks? I will be using and electronic masking system on my screen, so not worried about black bars, just during content. 

Thanks, all!


----------



## golden78

No the 5040ub does not have 18gbs hdmi it's limited to 10gbs.


----------



## roland6465

Does not support HLG, either.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

JewDaddy said:


> What about 4K HDR with Netflix?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Yes you get 4K HDR from Netflix and at 24hz to boot! The 5.1 issue with amazon has changed over the past few months considerably and HDR for YouTube is supposedly coming as well. Also, you get Vudu HDR at 24hz and HBO HDR is supposed to be coming for the final season of game of thrones. If your a YouTube TV subscriber you get 5.1 audio and 60hz streams on the same stations as chromecast. I am also heavily invested in Apple and have loads of iTunes movies. The video processor and scaler in the ATV4K is awesome. Not sure how the one in the shield is but it’s definitely not better then the ATV4K. The last thing is your guaranteed that both apples software and apps will be updated and have features added for many years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes you get 4K HDR from Netflix and at 24hz to boot! The 5.1 issue with amazon has changed over the past few months considerably and HDR for YouTube is supposedly coming as well. Also, you get Vudu HDR at 24hz and HBO HDR is supposed to be coming for the final season of game of thrones. If your a YouTube TV subscriber you get 5.1 audio and 60hz streams on the same stations as chromecast. I am also heavily invested in Apple and have loads of iTunes movies. The video processor and scaler in the ATV4K is awesome. Not sure how the one in the shield is but it’s definitely not better then the ATV4K. The last thing is your guaranteed that both apples software and apps will be updated and have features added for many years.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Same with Shield, you can change to 24hz and get 4K HDR with everything aswell. I haven't tried ATV, but Shield is great!

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Tom Riddle

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I’m going to go with the JVC.


----------



## WynsWrld98

OrcusVaruna said:


> The 5.1 issue with amazon has changed over the past few months considerably
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What does that mean?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

WynsWrld98 said:


> What does that mean?




I have noticed a lot more stuff is available in 5.1 then used to be. Including everything available through HBO (which I have tied to my prime account and did not used to be the case) along with most if not all amazon shows (and other shows for that matter) streamed in 4K. But there are still issues, I recently watched the expanse, of which the 1st two season stream in 4K and have 5.1 audio but the 3rd season that I purchased (which streams in 1080p) does not. When I contacted amazon they stated they are aware of the issue but are unsure of a timeline for it to be fixed. My guess is that there is probably something wrong with the root code of the ATV 4K app causing it to pull stereo streams instead of 5.1 from amazons servers. Depending where this botched code is it could literally make them have to rewrite the app for the ATV4K. If this is the case they will continue to try software fixes until the next major redesign leading to improving but still spotty availability of 5.1 streams until that time. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Tom Riddle said:


> Thanks for the replies, everyone. I’m going to go with the JVC.




You won’t be disappointed it’s a much better projector worth the money if you can afford it and have the right room for it (a dedicated theater). For $2500 usd though the 5040 drops an amazing picture and most HDMI compatibility issues can be solved by purchasing an HDFury Linker or Integral albeit gaming at 4K60hz will be in 8bit HDR which leads to some minor banding (not NEARLY as bad as some make it out to be because they mistake inherent banding in the video game graphics encode as 8bit induced...). 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## raf77

westbergjoakim said:


> Same with Shield, you can change to 24hz and get 4K HDR with everything aswell. I haven't tried ATV, but Shield is great!
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


Not really.
Check resolution on 4k HDR show in Netflix app on shield, not on projector, then you will see.


----------



## westbergjoakim

raf77 said:


> Not really.
> Check resolution on 4k HDR show in Netflix app on shield, not on projector, then you will see.


Where can I see that info in the app om Shield? I can only see HDR before I start the show on those that have HDR.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

Hi Guys,

Apologies as I'm sure this has come up many times before, but I'll finally be installing my 6040UB this weekend after having it in the box for the last 6 months. I've been out of this thread for quite some time, but I just want to know what the current best picture settings are for blu rays and 4K discs at the moment? Last time I was in here, Harpervision was the favourite. Is this still the case?


----------



## westbergjoakim

raf77 said:


> Not really.
> Check resolution on 4k HDR show in Netflix app on shield, not on projector, then you will see.


You are right, I see now that it won't go higher then 1080p in Netflix. Can ATV do that when forcingto 23.97hz? I don't have any Apple products. Only using the Shield for Plex, Netflix and some other apps, iptv. Do you think ATV would be something for me? Thanks!

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> 
> 
> Apologies as I'm sure this has come up many times before, but I'll finally be installing my 6040UB this weekend after having it in the box for the last 6 months. I've been out of this thread for quite some time, but I just want to know what the current best picture settings are for blu rays and 4K discs at the moment? Last time I was in here, Harpervision was the favourite. Is this still the case?



I have been using these for awhile now and I love them. If you search for @robc1976 he posted some excellent ones as well back in August. Granted these only get you so far as I use an alr screen and rob a powergain 1.3-1.5 gain white screen. 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> I have been using these for awhile now and I love them. If you search for @robc1976 he posted some excellent ones as well back in August. Granted these only get you so far as I use an alr screen and rob a powergain 1.3-1.5 gain white screen.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks man. It's a dedicated room painted flat black with a white 1.1 gain screen.

What settings are you using for non-HDR material, such as blu ray?

EDIT: Nevermind, I looked at your settings again and realised you listed both HDR and non-HDR settings.

So would you say these are the most commonly used settings in this thread now? Does anyone still use Harpervision? I seem to recall Harpervision settings using a HDR source but forcing the projector to output SDR or something. Is this still necessary?


----------



## antrantr

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks man. It's a dedicated room painted flat black with a white 1.1 gain screen.
> 
> What settings are you using for non-HDR material, such as blu ray?
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind, I looked at your settings again and realised you listed both HDR and non-HDR settings.
> 
> So would you say these are the most commonly used settings in this thread now? Does anyone still use Harpervision? I seem to recall Harpervision settings using a HDR source but forcing the projector to output SDR or something. Is this still necessary?


Unless you have same hardware you can't say that this is common general settings.
Its way of my settings which is defined by proper use of professional meter and software.

So in general if you can't calibrate with a meter, use default settings from factory and tune brightness and contrast using corresponding patterns from a disc or similar.

btw... you should NOT use color mode Natural for HDR since you will not get wide color gamut.
Only color mode Digital cinima will provide WCG


----------



## xpl0sive

antrantr said:


> Unless you have same hardware you can't say that this is common general settings.
> Its way of my settings which is defined by proper use of professional meter and software.
> 
> So in general if you can't calibrate with a meter, use default settings from factory and tune brightness and contrast using corresponding patterns from a disc or similar.
> 
> btw... you should NOT use color mode Natural for HDR since you will not get wide color gamut.
> Only color mode Digital cinima will provide WCG


ok, this is confusing. So are Rob's settings incorrect then since he used Natural? should I not be using anyone's settings in here, including Harpervision?

If so, what's the best factory picture setting to use for both HDR and non-HDR?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

antrantr said:


> Unless you have same hardware you can't say that this is common general settings.
> 
> Its way of my settings which is defined by proper use of professional meter and software.
> 
> 
> 
> So in general if you can't calibrate with a meter, use default settings from factory and tune brightness and contrast using corresponding patterns from a disc or similar.
> 
> 
> 
> btw... you should NOT use color mode Natural for HDR since you will not get wide color gamut.
> 
> Only color mode Digital cinima will provide WCG




Everything is a generalization and I stated when I posted them that I use an alr screen and rob a power gain white screen. Also, for hdr you have to do something to gamma and color to make it remotely watchable. Finally, when you actually calibrate your projector with a meter you realize hat you actually don’t loose much by using natural over digital cinema and the additional light output you gain FAR outweighs a virtually imperceptible increase in color. As it turns out humans suck wind viewing differences in color but are excellent at determining minor differences in contrast. So I will always make the choice when calibrating that gives me more contrast over better color. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> ok, this is confusing. So are Rob's settings incorrect then since he used Natural? should I not be using anyone's settings in here, including Harpervision?
> 
> 
> 
> If so, what's the best factory picture setting to use for both HDR and non-HDR?




No they are not wrong because they use natural. HDR calibration on a projector is all about compromises and both rob and I chose more light output over very minor increases in color gained by using the color filter. Also, the hogwash that you should only use factory settings when you can’t calibrate is just that. Give different settings a try and tweak for your environment. Will it be perfect, no. But it may look better to you and worst case you reset the settings back to factory baseline. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> No they are not wrong because they use natural. HDR calibration on a projector is all about compromises and both rob and I chose more light output over very minor increases in color gained by using the color filter. Also, the hogwash that you should only use factory settings when you can’t calibrate is just that. Give different settings a try and tweak for your environment. Will it be perfect, no. But it may look better to you and worst case you reset the settings back to factory baseline.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the advice man. I've saved your settings, Rob's and Harpervisions in a file so I can try all 3 when I set up my projector. What is different with your settings compared to Harpervision?

Side note, but do you know of any UHD calibration discs available? I remember when I bought my last TV, I didn't calibrate it as the cinema mode was actually pretty good, I just used a calibration disc to adjust the brightness and contrast for the room.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks man. It's a dedicated room painted flat black with a white 1.1 gain screen.
> 
> 
> 
> What settings are you using for non-HDR material, such as blu ray?
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind, I looked at your settings again and realised you listed both HDR and non-HDR settings.
> 
> 
> 
> So would you say these are the most commonly used settings in this thread now? Does anyone still use Harpervision? I seem to recall Harpervision settings using a HDR source but forcing the projector to output SDR or something. Is this still necessary?





OrcusVaruna said:


> You’re very welcome I’m glad they are working out well for you! I also completely agree that each of mine and @robc1976 settings are excellent and have qualities I greatly enjoy. After what must have been at least 20 hours learning how to calibrate for HDR and applying it to the Epson, you really have to make some tough decisions with respect to HDR and projectors. Robs settings accentuate specular highlights and simulated HDR exceptionally well, but at the expense of mid tone contrast and subsequent pop. My original settings maximize contrast and pop at the expense of shadow detail and specular highlights. In other words more of a stylized HDR simulation with high peak brightness but reduced mid tone dynamic range. Finally, my new settings basically say to hell with simulating HDR as I purposely boosted low end gamma shrinking the dynamic range but gaining image detail in darker areas. This decision killed specular highlights to a degree but makes the image much more filmic and natural which I personally prefer. Ultimately though, one can not go wrong using either of the settings exclusively or a combination of all three. They are each excellent in their own way and there is no right answer as to which one is better, as they are the direct reflection of the compromises/decisions you must make when calibrating a projector for HDR.
> 
> As a side note, with all of the talk in this thread about quality issues I sometimes forget how friggen awesome this projector is. I just rewatched Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows as a torture test for my new settings and the image was truly jaw dropping and I actually chuckled at one point because it looked so good lol. Moments like that really make all the money spent on my system and time perfecting it worth it. And thank you again for sharing your thoughts.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here’s where I describe some different assumptions made when calibrating for HDR. Neither is more correct just a different approach to solve the issues of displaying hdr on projectors. Dave’s assumption when using SDR is basically that we are doing an HDR to SDR conversion anyway to display the content so why mess around with elaborate tone mapping upfront. The result is an image with an accurate but overall compressed image that looks a bit washed out imo especially on smaller screens where the compressed mid range tones aren’t aided and darkened by reduced light reaching each part of the image. Once again though Dave just uses a different approach to tackle the problems of displaying hdr on a projector. None of our approaches are better then the other imo just different. 







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
H


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks for the advice man. I've saved your settings, Rob's and Harpervisions in a file so I can try all 3 when I set up my projector. What is different with your settings compared to Harpervision?
> 
> 
> 
> Side note, but do you know of any UHD calibration discs available? I remember when I bought my last TV, I didn't calibrate it as the cinema mode was actually pretty good, I just used a calibration disc to adjust the brightness and contrast for the room.


There is not simple calibration disc that I am aware of for HDR. Unfortunately HDR calibration is a dang mess and requires a meter to have any chance at doing something remotely watchable. If you do get a meter there is a whole thread dedicated to 5040 calibrations but it is not for the faint of heart. I’ve probably spent well over 40 hrs total figuring out how to calibrate hdr and still struggle with reconciling the impact contrast, color management system and gamma all have on each other. The 5040 doesn’t help matters either as it’s calibration tools are a mess, especially the horrible gamma graph. 

For SDR you really don’t have to do more then you have already done. Some minor tweaks with a calibration disk get you 95% of the way there and an excellent image. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapalk



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

...


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> Here’s where I describe some different assumptions made when calibrating for HDR. Neither is more correct just a different approach to solve the issues of displaying hdr on projectors. Dave’s assumption when using SDR is basically that we are doing an HDR to SDR conversion anyway to display the content so why mess around with elaborate tone mapping upfront. The result is an image with an accurate but overall compressed image that looks a bit washed out imo especially on smaller screens where the compressed mid range tones aren’t aided and darkened by reduced light reaching each part of the image. Once again though Dave just uses a different approach to tackle the problems of displaying hdr on a projector. None of our approaches are better then the other imo just different.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> H


Thank you. I think I will use all 3 settings and see what I like best.

To start with, I just want to use the settings out of the box. Which picture mode is best for this?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Thank you. I think I will use all 3 settings and see what I like best.
> 
> 
> 
> To start with, I just want to use the settings out of the box. Which picture mode is best for this?




For SDR either natural or cinema for HDR probably digital cinema with a color space of auto and a gamma of +2


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> For SDR either natural or cinema for HDR probably digital cinema with a color space of auto and a gamma of +2
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you!


----------



## avtoronto

xpl0sive said:


> Thank you!


If you happen to have an Apple TV 4K, the app TestCardProHD has HDR test cards to help you do do some HDR settings (HD as well). The app costs less than $10.


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks for the advice man. I've saved your settings, Rob's and Harpervisions in a file so I can try all 3 when I set up my projector. What is different with your settings compared to Harpervision?
> 
> 
> 
> Side note, but do you know of any UHD calibration discs available? I remember when I bought my last TV, I didn't calibrate it as the cinema mode was actually pretty good, I just used a calibration disc to adjust the brightness and contrast for the room.



The best hands down for money are the Ryan Masciola Patterns which you can download to put on a flash drive or get a UHD Blu-ray disc. I recommend the download because you get free updates. 

http://diversifiedvideosolutions.com 





OrcusVaruna said:


> Here’s where I describe some different assumptions made when calibrating for HDR. Neither is more correct just a different approach to solve the issues of displaying hdr on projectors. Dave’s assumption when using SDR is basically that we are doing an HDR to SDR conversion anyway to display the content so why mess around with elaborate tone mapping upfront. *The result is an image with an accurate but overall compressed image that looks a bit washed out *imo especially on smaller screens where the compressed mid range tones aren’t aided and darkened by reduced light reaching each part of the image. Once again though Dave just uses a different approach to tackle the problems of displaying hdr on a projector. None of our approaches are better then the other imo just different.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> H



I thought I mentioned this before, but if your end result with my settings appear “compressed and washed out”, then you have something setup wrong. Those two verbs are the opposite of what I recall experiencing with my settings on the 5040UBs I’ve done, especially the “washed out” part!





xpl0sive said:


> ok, this is confusing. So are Rob's settings incorrect then since he used Natural? should I not be using anyone's settings in here, including Harpervision?
> 
> 
> 
> If so, what's the best factory picture setting to use for both HDR and non-HDR?



I thought I used Digital Cinema?


----------



## avtoronto

xpl0sive said:


> Thank you!


Room+screen+personal preferences lead to the settings that work best for you. The amount of ambient light you have (some, none), what type of screen you have and its gain, and what you like to see, will determine the best settings. For me, I prefer Digital Cinema and I like Harpervision. Others lean towards Natural. There's no settings panacea.


----------



## gene4ht

avtoronto said:


> Room+screen+personal preferences lead to the settings that work best for you. The amount of ambient light you have (some, none), what type of screen you have and its gain, and what you like to see, will determine the best settings. For me, I prefer Digital Cinema and I like Harpervision. Others lean towards Natural. There's no settings panacea.



As with most things in this hobby, the environment, equipment, and most importantly personal tastes and preferences are the factors that determine what is "right/desirable" for each of us. In terms of audio, our ears will be the final judge and with video...our eyes...heck, some of us have some hearing deficiencies and/or are to some extent color blind. It is appreciative that members have contributed time and effort to get many of us to a good starting point but I'm in agreement that there is no panacea or single holy grail.


----------



## xpl0sive

avtoronto said:


> If you happen to have an Apple TV 4K, the app TestCardProHD has HDR test cards to help you do do some HDR settings (HD as well). The app costs less than $10.


No Apple TV I'm afraid.



Dave Harper said:


> The best hands down for money are the Ryan Masciola Patterns which you can download to put on a flash drive or get a UHD Blu-ray disc. I recommend the download because you get free updates.
> 
> http://diversifiedvideosolutions.com


Thank you Dave, actually found this yesterday. Going to purchase.



Dave Harper said:


> I thought I used Digital Cinema?


Yeah you did, was responding to someone else's comments about not using other people's settings. It's because you use Digital Cinema that I wanted to try yours.

Side note, but do you have the latest version of your settings?



avtoronto said:


> Room+screen+personal preferences lead to the settings that work best for you. The amount of ambient light you have (some, none), what type of screen you have and its gain, and what you like to see, will determine the best settings. For me, I prefer Digital Cinema and I like Harpervision. Others lean towards Natural. There's no settings panacea.


Thanks for the advice. I'll have to try them all out, run the test patterns and see what I like best.


----------



## Juboy

gene4ht said:


> It is appreciative that members have contributed time and effort to get many of us to a good starting point but I'm in agreement that there is no panacea or single holy grail.


Couldn't agree more. 

I've tried almost all of the settings users have provided throughout this thread and each have their merits. For me, Rob and Orcus' settings are what have won out, albeit with some minor tweaks of my own, but I don't think any of the ones I've tried have been bad, just different and/or less preferable to me personally.

I now have all 10 memory slots loaded and have come to know which will work best with what content. It means I now sit back and watch everything knowing that I'm getting the best out of my projector, which makes me hugely grateful to all who've contributed their settings and knowledge here.


----------



## ClayM325

Does anyone know of a good video that explains all this that just sounds like a bunch of jargon to me? I want to learn about it cause I know nothing. Things like 8 bit, 10 bit, gamma, chroma, bt.709 bt.2020 all that stuff. Lol


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> I thought I mentioned this before, but if your end result with my settings appear “compressed and washed out”, then you have something setup wrong. Those two verbs are the opposite of what I recall experiencing with my settings on the 5040UBs I’ve done, especially the “washed out” part!



Dave,

You always parse out exactly what I am not trying to convey in my posts and when I reread it sure sounds like I was saying they were compressed and washed out . What I was attempting to say was the base of my settings is that I use autobright as a starting point for tone mapping and you use SDR. This leads to an image compared to mine that raises (adds more tone steps in this part of the image) the mid range and makes the image a bit washed out appearing in comparison. Where my settings result in an artificially contrasty looking image because autobright widens the baseline tone mapping leaving few steps in the mid range creating the overall punchy appearance of the image. In the end I was just trying to highlight that neither settings are better or worse just different because we took different approaches to solving the problem of displaying hdr on an Sdr machine. 

Cheers,

Anthony


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ClayM325

How do I save custom settings? Is that possible? Like if I want to save different peoples settings on here and switch back and forth between them quickly to see what I like better


----------



## T-MAN_

First time poster... ridiculously long time lurker. I just wanted to thank everyone on here who spent hours calibrating these projectors and then sharing their findings. I’m using several of the settings posted here for HDR and SDR. So THANK YOU! the results are awesome. 

I’ve tried going through this very very long thread but couldn’t find any settings for 3D movies. Are there any... If so could you kindly point the way? 

Thanks!


----------



## seplant

ClayM325 said:


> How do I save custom settings? Is that possible? Like if I want to save different peoples settings on here and switch back and forth between them quickly to see what I like better


You can save up to ten custom settings. Just go to the Menu, then Settings, go to Save Memory, then select a memory position.


----------



## inspector

T-MAN_ said:


> First time poster... ridiculously long time lurker. I just wanted to thank everyone on here who spent hours calibrating these projectors and then sharing their findings. I’m using several of the settings posted here for HDR and SDR. So THANK YOU! the results are awesome.
> 
> I’ve tried going through this very very long thread but couldn’t find any settings for 3D movies. Are there any... If so could you kindly point the way?
> 
> Thanks!



Hey T-Man, welcome aboard. I use 2 settings for 3D, 3D Dynamic for color and 3D Cinema for B & W. I'll post those setting in the next few days. 


My HT is pitch dark, so the settings I will post is what I like.


----------



## Viche

OrcusVaruna said:


> For SDR either natural or cinema for HDR probably digital cinema with a color space of auto and a gamma of +2
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You suggest digital cinema for HDR? I thought you said:

“Finally, when you actually calibrate your projector with a meter you realize hat you actually don’t loose much by using natural over digital cinema and the additional light output you gain FAR outweighs a virtually imperceptible increase in color.”


----------



## ClayM325

I might get blasted for this, but has anyone spent any time calibrating for high ambient light? We do football every Sunday in my man cave and have the lights on in the room. If not, anyone have any general reccomendation guidelines?


----------



## drhankz

ClayM325 said:


> I might get blasted for this, but has anyone spent any time calibrating for high ambient light? We do football every Sunday in my man cave and have the lights on in the room. If not, anyone have any general reccomendation guidelines?



I would like to blast you but I will retain my cool. 



That is the biggest *oxymoron* on the planet


----------



## spirithockey79

For anyone that has spent time calibrating the 5040 with the Panny 820 to utilize the tone mapping feature, would you mind posting your settings? Trying to figure out if I should scrap the custom gamma curve settings and just play with the defaults. Also interested in whether those of you who have messed around with the 820 have gone to the digital cinema mode since my understanding with the tone mapping is you want to convert to SDR 2020. So if you’ve settled on a Natural or Bright Cinema setting prior to the 820 due to HDR being to dark, are you now seeing the digital cinema mode as a better picture since it covers most of the P3 gamut?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

spirithockey79 said:


> For anyone that has spent time calibrating the 5040 with the Panny 820 to utilize the tone mapping feature, would you mind posting your settings? Trying to figure out if I should scrap the custom gamma curve settings and just play with the defaults. Also interested in whether those of you who have messed around with the 820 have gone to the digital cinema mode since my understanding with the tone mapping is you want to convert to SDR 2020. So if you’ve settled on a Natural or Bright Cinema setting prior to the 820 due to HDR being to dark, are you now seeing the digital cinema mode as a better picture since it covers most of the P3 gamut?


We don't have a proper Gamma 2.4 for SDR 2020, yet. It's not trivial on the Epson like it is on some other brands of projectors. 

In the meantime, I've been using HarperVision with the 820 set to Middle Luminance which tone maps to 1000 nits. Dave has stated that HarperVision clips around 1100 nits so this gets you very close. You can up the dynamic range slider a tick or two if you want to raise the brightness of the picture a bit more without sacrificing much.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Viche said:


> You suggest digital cinema for HDR? I thought you said:
> 
> 
> 
> “Finally, when you actually calibrate your projector with a meter you realize hat you actually don’t loose much by using natural over digital cinema and the additional light output you gain FAR outweighs a virtually imperceptible increase in color.”



He was specifically asking out of the box settings with no custom adjustment or settings. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lithium said:


> We don't have a proper Gamma 2.4 for SDR 2020, yet. It's not trivial on the Epson like it is on some other brands of projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> In the meantime, I've been using HarperVision with the 820 set to Middle Luminance which tone maps to 1000 nits. Dave has stated that HarperVision clips around 1100 nits so this gets you very close. You can up the dynamic range slider a tick or two if you want to raise the brightness of the picture a bit more without sacrificing much.




I still think I would choose more light over a bit more coverage of p3 but I will have to see once I pick up the player. But I’m very happy with my current settings handling of hdr to Sdr conversion I more want the player to assist with displaying these stupid paramount and wb discs mastered at 4000 nits. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

OrcusVaruna said:


> He was specifically asking out of the box settings with no custom adjustment or settings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why would he not want more contrast and light (vs wider color range) with out of the box settings? I’m not understanding why your custom settings benefit from more contrast, but out of the box settings apparently don’t as much.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Viche said:


> Why would he not want more contrast and light (vs wider color range) with out of the box settings? I’m not understanding why your custom settings benefit from more contrast, but out of the box settings apparently don’t as much.




Your perverting my opinions post calibration and applying them to my recommendations to someone who wants to take the projector out of the box press as few buttons as possible and play a hdr with a respectable image. Precalibration or pre one entering of any settings posted here, digital cinema is the better option for displaying hdr content. Baseline precalibration color rendering of wcg material is awful using natural. Post calibration it’s excellent but pre not so much. If you ever pick up a meter and attempt to calibrate on your own you will understand why I am recommending digital cinema in this case. Obviously he would be better served by using harpervision with digital cinema or mine or robs settings with natural. But he did ask that question...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

ClayM325 said:


> I might get blasted for this, but has anyone spent any time calibrating for high ambient light? We do football every Sunday in my man cave and have the lights on in the room. If not, anyone have any general reccomendation guidelines?




Yes I have I’ll pull my bright room sports settings tonight and post them up for you. And why would you get blasted this projector is excellent for battling lots of light as it’s a proverbial light cannon of a projector?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## T-MAN_

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes I have I’ll pull my bright room sports settings tonight and post them up for you. And why would you get blasted this projector is excellent for battling lots of light as it’s a proverbial light cannon of a projector?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



@OrcusVaruna I’m use your settings and they look great! Thank you! 

Btw. You posted some gamma settings a while back 0,15,24,29,32,31,32,9 saying you found these to be an improvement but your last settings seem to have abandoned them. Any reason for this or do you still use these for some cases? 

Also I too have a bright ambient room (white walls and ceiling). Are there any mods we need to make to harpervision or your settings? Obviously I am continuously tweaking but it’s nice to get your opinion i.e. someone with more experience and knowledge in the matter. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ClayM325

OrcusVaruna said:


> ClayM325 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I might get blasted for this, but has anyone spent any time calibrating for high ambient light? We do football every Sunday in my man cave and have the lights on in the room. If not, anyone have any general reccomendation guidelines?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I have I’ll pull my bright room sports settings tonight and post them up for you. And why would you get blasted this projector is excellent for battling lots of light as it’s a proverbial light cannon of a projector?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I just figured that because I was running a projector with lights on. In a previous post someone already had to bite their tongue about it. 😂 But thanks in advance I really appreciate it! I can't wait to get them in and tried out this Sunday!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

ClayM325 said:


> I just figured that because I was running a projector with lights on. In a previous post someone already had to bite their tongue about it. 😂 But thanks in advance I really appreciate it! I can't wait to get them in and tried out this Sunday!




Shockingly some plebeians like myself don’t have a million$ home with a dedicated movie theater or even more shockingly some actually don’t want a room like that and would prefer to view this projector in a family room with lights on so everyone can enjoy . Don’t worry I got our backs 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

T-MAN_ said:


> @OrcusVaruna I’m use your settings and they look great! Thank you!
> 
> Btw. You posted some gamma settings a while back 0,15,24,29,32,31,32,9 saying you found these to be an improvement but your last settings seem to have abandoned them. Any reason for this or do you still use these for some cases?
> 
> Also I too have a bright ambient room (white walls and ceiling). Are there any mods we need to make to harpervision or your settings? Obviously I am continuously tweaking but it’s nice to get your opinion i.e. someone with more experience and knowledge in the matter.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I have gone back and forth on this a lot and decided that the look of that gamma kind of defeats the purpose of using autobright for me as it removes some of the punchiness of the image. If I want the look it provides I’ll use a variation of robs settings or harpervison. As for bright rooms my settings were developed in my white on white living room so no I would not recommend any changes for your environment. For hapervision you might mess with some of the gamma points 3,4,5 to adjust for some contrast issues we encounter in bright rooms. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## theaterofpain

drhankz said:


> I would like to blast you but I will retain my cool.


I see what you did there, but you would be in the right to blast him. Does anyone really watch football any longer or have we all decided that Sundays (and Saturdays) could be better spent by manicuring our lawns with scissors?


----------



## T-MAN_

OrcusVaruna said:


> I have gone back and forth on this a lot and decided that the look of that gamma kind of defeats the purpose of using autobright for me as it removes some of the punchiness of the image. If I want the look it provides I’ll use a variation of robs settings or harpervison. As for bright rooms my settings were developed in my white on white living room so no I would not recommend any changes for your environment. For hapervision you might mess with some of the gamma points 3,4,5 to adjust for some contrast issues we encounter in bright rooms.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thank you... that makes sense. I’ll keep tweaking. 

Btw. @inspector said he would put up some settings for 3D over the coming days. In the meantime do you have any of your own to get me (and potentially others) started? 

Once again I really appreciate all the effort you’ve put into this and for sharing it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

T-MAN_ said:


> Thank you... that makes sense. I’ll keep tweaking.
> 
> Btw. @inspector said he would put up some settings for 3D over the coming days. In the meantime do you have any of your own to get me (and potentially others) started?
> 
> Once again I really appreciate all the effort you’ve put into this and for sharing it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Unfortunately as much as I try I can not stomach active 3D it gives me a terrible headache. But for some simple settings I know others have recommended turning off frame interpolation and the auto iris. Also to do some quick calibration work Disney 3D movies like finding Nemo have some useful test patterns hidden in their menus.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

theaterofpain said:


> I see what you did there, but you would be in the right to blast him. Does anyone really watch football any longer or have we all decided that Sundays (and Saturdays) could be better spent by manicuring our lawns with scissors?




I agree manicuring lawns with scissors is a much better use of time. Maybe I will toss in drinking an autumnal mead for some added dilly dilly 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## monkaquinas

spirithockey79 said:


> For anyone that has spent time calibrating the 5040 with the Panny 820 to utilize the tone mapping feature, would you mind posting your settings? Trying to figure out if I should scrap the custom gamma curve settings and just play with the defaults. Also interested in whether those of you who have messed around with the 820 have gone to the digital cinema mode since my understanding with the tone mapping is you want to convert to SDR 2020. So if you’ve settled on a Natural or Bright Cinema setting prior to the 820 due to HDR being to dark, are you now seeing the digital cinema mode as a better picture since it covers most of the P3 gamut?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





monkaquinas said:


> I upgraded to the 5040UB in April and have been upgrading the components through my systems to get to 4K and finally added the UB820 a couple of weeks ago. I’ve enjoyed Rob’s and Orcus video settings and finally decided to jump into a calibration of my own (no light meter or cal SW).
> I used the DVE, Spears, and WOW discs to dial in the SDR/BT2020 video based on a recommendation from Kris and his testing of the 820 and its tone mapping. My first pass was with the DVE and then the Spears disc, and finally the WOW disc that has great video tests from actual movies.
> I discovered a big red push with Surrogates and Pirates and I used the 820 to dial it back under a second profile. It seemed better, still bothers me that I had to set 2 SDR settings in the 820 after dialing in the 5040.
> I then pulled up the Masciola HDR patterns and ran thru them to ensure that there wasn’t anything too off. Below are my settings while watching John Wick UHD. I need to figure out Gamma and how it affects the image and do another pass. Any advice or suggestions are appreciated.


You are welcome to give these a spin. I haven't used Digital Cinema, I prefer to run in Eco with Med and I have to give that up for more light. It all comes down to your room and preference.


----------



## theaterofpain

I think I've figured out what the one minute super ramp-up fan speed on this projector is for after every x-number of turn-ons. The other day I had a dust spot that covered the equivalent of 3 pixels. I blew non-compressed air across the lens and the dust was still there, which means it was on the mirrors. Then today I turned on the projector and it did its fan thing. I looked at the screen and the dust spot was gone. Do you think this is some undocumented self-cleaning mechanism that supposed to blast air across the mirrors every so often?


----------



## The_Forth_Man

theaterofpain said:


> I think I've figured out what the one minute super ramp-up fan speed on this projector is for after every x-number of turn-ons. The other day I had a dust spot that covered the equivalent of 3 pixels. I blew non-compressed air across the lens and the dust was still there, which means it was on the mirrors. Then today I turned on the projector and it did its fan thing. I looked at the screen and the dust spot was gone. Do you think this is some undocumented self-cleaning mechanism that supposed to blast air across the mirrors every so often?


It might be, but if so I would advertise such a thing. 

On my part I have a infrared temp sensor next to my Pj and noticed that every time it does that it's exactly 69*


----------



## theaterofpain

The_Forth_Man said:


> It might be, but if so I would advertise such a thing.
> 
> On my part I have a infrared temp sensor next to my Pj and noticed that every time it does that it's exactly 69*


I agree that it should be advertised. I don't think it has anything to do with temperature (my dedicated, climate-controlled theater is a constant 72-73 degrees year round) - the older projectors had their cool-down right after you put the projector into sleep mode. I'm going to start taking a tally of how many startups until the next fan boost, but I'm starting to think that it's based on lamp hours usage instead, which would make more sense.


----------



## bluer101

I don’t think they would ever list that as a feature. That would be admitting that dust gets into the light path and can cause an issue. Blowing it out may or may not solve it at startup.


----------



## xpl0sive

So does anyone have a summary of the latest settings from all the main players in this thread? It seems that doing a search, there seems to be variations of settings from the same people so I'm not sure what's the most recent.

Also, does anyone use a Panasonic UB900 with this projector? Are there any settings on the player I can take advantage of to get a better picture with this projector?


----------



## T-MAN_

OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes I have I’ll pull my bright room sports settings tonight and post them up for you. And why would you get blasted this projector is excellent for battling lots of light as it’s a proverbial light cannon of a projector?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Looking forward to these but also another question regarding the screen... You are a strong proponent of grey alr screens. But how are they at an angle? I sit quite close up to the screen (around 9/10ft away) and have a large screen (135inch) so would the sides appear dimmer than the center of the screen or would it mean having to get a smaller screen? I had a da-lite white screen for a few years which now needs replacing so trying to see whether to get something like the elite cinewhite or their cinegrey 5d to go with this projector. I have white walls, white ceiling, and a window with full blackout curtains. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> So does anyone have a summary of the latest settings from all the main players in this thread? It seems that doing a search, there seems to be variations of settings from the same people so I'm not sure what's the most recent.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, does anyone use a Panasonic UB900 with this projector? Are there any settings on the player I can take advantage of to get a better picture with this projector?



I do but I can’t attach any files or post any pictures on my new phone as Tapatalk is broken for those functions on the Xs Max lol

EDIT: Nevermind I forgot I brought my computer home here ya go


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> I do but I can’t attach any files or post any pictures on my new phone as Tapatalk is broken for those functions on the Xs Max lol
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind I forgot I brought my computer home here ya go


Dude, you are THE MAN! Thank you


----------



## djmattyb

*Settings - easy compare*

I took the PDF that was provided and turned it into a table format so all the settings could be easily compared.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

T-MAN_ said:


> Looking forward to these but also another question regarding the screen... You are a strong proponent of grey alr screens. But how are they at an angle? I sit quite close up to the screen (around 9/10ft away) and have a large screen (135inch) so would the sides appear dimmer than the center of the screen or would it mean having to get a smaller screen? I had a da-lite white screen for a few years which now needs replacing so trying to see whether to get something like the elite cinewhite or their cinegrey 5d to go with this projector. I have white walls, white ceiling, and a window with full blackout curtains.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I don’t know how you sit that close to a 135” screen lol I sit the same distance and have 100” and it’s maxing the limits of what I find comfortable for a 16x9 image. Now I totally would take a 135” scope screen! With that said I have no issues with my cinegrey 3D and sitting that close, the image is very uniform and acceptably viewable out to 135+ degrees. For your environment I would absolutely think about an alr screen, order some samples from elite to get an idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Dude, you are THE MAN! Thank you




Anytime, you’re very welcome!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

djmattyb said:


> I took the PDF that was provided and turned it into a table format so all the settings could be easily compared.




Awesome thank you 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

djmattyb said:


> I took the PDF that was provided and turned it into a table format so all the settings could be easily compared.


Thank you! And thanks to the guys in this thread doing the hard work and providing us with custom settings


----------



## Dave Harper

OrcusVaruna said:


> I do but I can’t attach any files or post any pictures on my new phone as Tapatalk is broken for those functions on the Xs Max lol
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind I forgot I brought my computer home here ya go



Hmmmm, according to that pdf it doesn’t show any greyscale or CMS adjustments. I’m pretty sure I updated those and posted them here somewhere. I wonder if that’s why Orcus keeps saying mine look flat and washed out, which in ALL recollection from when I had some 5040s here, was far from being the case?

I’ll have to do some searching for them when I have a chance.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> Hmmmm, according to that pdf it doesn’t show any greyscale or CMS adjustments. I’m pretty sure I updated those and posted them here somewhere. I wonder if that’s why Orcus keeps saying mine look flat and washed out, which in ALL recollection from when I had some 5040s here, was far from being the case?
> 
> I’ll have to do some searching for them when I have a chance.




Awesome thank you Dave. The settings in that file is what’s linked in your signature. I looked through the better part of this thread for cms adjustments by yourself and only came across some by another user. Thanks in advance for looking for the cms adjustments I’d love to give them a try if you find them. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## T-MAN_

Dave Harper said:


> Hmmmm, according to that pdf it doesn’t show any greyscale or CMS adjustments. I’m pretty sure I updated those and posted them here somewhere. I wonder if that’s why Orcus keeps saying mine look flat and washed out, which in ALL recollection from when I had some 5040s here, was far from being the case?
> 
> I’ll have to do some searching for them when I have a chance.




I have been trawling back in history to try to find these settings in their entirety but it seems you hadn’t logged them down in the first place Dave. It would be great if you could find them though just in case you stored them in that safe place no one can ever remember where it is! 

To save everyone the trouble of going back through this thread... here are snippets from the past... and also a potential fix/‘restoration’ by Oledurt in case the complete original real deal Harpervision is ‘lost from the archives forever’ 



Dave Harper said:


> I still recommend it, if that counts?
> 
> Those settings are good, although you have to do the CMS settings yourself since they got lost somehow in the process and I haven't had a 5040 here since to update it. I can't stress this enough though, you have to tweak them to your system and environment and you have to do it well. Believe me, when you hit the right combo of settings, your jaw concurrently hits the floor!
> 
> It is only for HDR signals, not SDR.






Oledurt said:


> Oledurt's take on Harpervision.
> 
> Color Mode Digital Cinema
> Brightness 53 (please adjust this to your screen)
> Contrast 100
> Color Saturation 73
> Tint 50
> 
> Sharpness all 0
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> 
> [Customized]
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 48
> Gain G 61
> Gain B 34
> 
> Image Enhancement Off
> Super Resolution all 0
> Detail Enhancement all 0
> 
> Power Consumption High
> Auto Iris Normal
> 
> Gamma (from left to right)
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28,-26,15,32
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> 
> R
> Hue 50 Saturation 23 Brightness 50
> G
> Hue 78 Saturation 8 Brightness 50
> B
> Hue 68 Saturation 30 Brightness 50
> C
> Hue 56 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> M
> Hue 76 Saturation 31 Brightness 50
> Y
> Hue 44 Saturation 29 Brightness 50
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI Video Range Normal
> Color space BT.2020
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image Processing Fine
> 
> No HD Fury, and all settings on the blu ray player at default.
> 
> The CMS was calibrated using HDR 1 tone mapping so I do not know how these translate to Harpervision, but to my eye watching various material it looks pretty good to me.
> 
> Best of luck.






Dave Harper said:


> Totally agree! I can't tell you how glad I am that you tried it again with your calibrated settings since I was stupid and didn't get my final numbers for CMS and greyscale!
> 
> ...
> 
> Just remember though that mine also include CMS and greyscale calibrated settings. I just didn't remember to snap photos of the menus before I boxed it up and shipped it to its new owner when I finally got done at almost 3am and was delirious!  .




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## T-MAN_

OrcusVaruna said:


> I don’t know how you sit that close to a 135” screen lol I sit the same distance and have 100” and it’s maxing the limits of what I find comfortable for a 16x9 image. Now I totally would take a 135” scope screen! With that said I have no issues with my cinegrey 3D and sitting that close, the image is very uniform and acceptably viewable out to 135+ degrees. For your environment I would absolutely think about an alr screen, order some samples from elite to get an idea.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Lol. What can I say? I enjoy the IMAX experience at home. Friends and family here call it the TMAX 

I’m actually contemplating a scope screen this size (133”) and using it for most 16:9 viewings (with the smaller viewing area) ... except for real IMAX presentations such as Dunkirk etc where I roll down a separate similar size (135”) 16:9 screen. That way I get the best of both worlds  and makes the ‘IMAX’ experience not a normal day to day thing and truly immersive. 

I already have the cinegrey 5d and the maxwhite samples but they are so small I cannot compare the brightness levels from when they are in the centre and on the edge of the viewing area. I do notice a difference in brightness on the cinegrey 5d being dimmer when I place it on the edge of the viewing area but i don’t know how much it is compared to the centre and if I’d notice it. I may need two samples of each fabric. Lol. 

I know we are veering slightly off topic here but I guess it’s related to getting the best out of this projector... but is the cinegrey 3d any different to the 5D as it’s not available on the tab tensioned roll down screens which is a must for me as the screen rolls down to cover the tv on the same wall (only the 5D is)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

T-MAN_ said:


> I have been trawling back in history to try to find these settings in their entirety but it seems you hadn’t logged them down in the first place Dave. It would be great if you could find them though just in case you stored them in that safe place no one can ever remember where it is!
> 
> To save everyone the trouble of going back through this thread... here are snippets from the past... and also a potential fix/‘restoration’ by Oledurt in case the complete original real deal Harpervision is ‘lost from the archives forever’
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


As he points out above Dave never did post greyscale and CMS settings 
Also since his settings and Oledurts tweak there has been a firmware update so I suspect the HDR1 tone mapped setting that Oledurt refers to is no longer valid as they changed with the new firmware


----------



## T-MAN_

OrcusVaruna said:


> Anytime, let me know what you think! Also I noticed this morning an error in hdr gamma point 7. It’s supposed to be 26 not 31
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Does this still stand?


----------



## Dave Harper

OrcusVaruna said:


> Awesome thank you Dave. The settings in that file is what’s linked in your signature. I looked through the better part of this thread for cms adjustments by yourself and only came across some by another user. Thanks in advance for looking for the cms adjustments I’d love to give them a try if you find them.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk






Lesmor said:


> As he points out above Dave never did post greyscale and CMS settings
> 
> Also since his settings and Oledurts tweak there has been a firmware update so I suspect the HDR1 tone mapped setting that Oledurt refers to is no longer valid as they changed with the new firmware






T-MAN_ said:


> I have been trawling back in history to try to find these settings in their entirety but it seems you hadn’t logged them down in the first place Dave. It would be great if you could find them though just in case you stored them in that safe place no one can ever remember where it is!
> 
> To save everyone the trouble of going back through this thread... here are snippets from the past... and also a potential fix/‘restoration’ by Oledurt in case the complete original real deal Harpervision is ‘lost from the archives forever’
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Oh now I remember that. Thanks for jogging my old memory guys! I had thought the client came through with sending the settings back to me or posting them but I guess not. 

It should be fairly easy for someone with the right gear to get though. Just input what settings are there, tweak user settings to the environment and then do a calibration of he greyscale and CMS. If someone could do that it would be awesome! (Or send me your 5040/6040 and I’ll do a free calibration on it for you and post the results).


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> Oh now I remember that. Thanks for jogging my old memory guys! I had thought the client came through with sending the settings back to me or posting them but I guess not.
> 
> It should be fairly easy for someone with the right gear to get though. Just input what settings are there, tweak user settings to the environment and then do a calibration of he greyscale and CMS. If someone could do that it would be awesome! (Or send me your 5040/6040 and I’ll do a free calibration on it for you and post the results).




I’ll give it a whirl the next time I get a free day and maybe @robc1976 will if he gets a chance as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## satyab

OrcusVaruna said:


> I do but I can’t attach any files or post any pictures on my new phone as Tapatalk is broken for those functions on the Xs Max lol
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind I forgot I brought my computer home here ya go


 @OrcusVaruna & @Dave Harper,
I am not sure if you are familiar with Panny 820 dynamic HDR Optimizer. If I use HDR optimizer ON, does the settings posted here are still a good choice? Does custom Gamma settings of 5040UB needs to be reset to 0?
Currently I am using Digital Cinema, gamma @ +2 and Auto Bright. Image looks good but I feel like there is more potential with 5040/820 combo.


----------



## Lithium

OrcusVaruna said:


> I don’t know how you sit that close to a 135” screen lol I sit the same distance and have 100” and it’s maxing the limits of what I find comfortable for a 16x9 image. Now I totally would take a 135” scope screen! With that said I have no issues with my cinegrey 3D and sitting that close, the image is very uniform and acceptably viewable out to 135+ degrees. For your environment I would absolutely think about an alr screen, order some samples from elite to get an idea.


I went with a 16:9 150" Seymour AV screen with seating at 12' and 18'. My thinking was if I'm going through the exercise of a classy front projection setup I wanted pretty much as much picture as my room would allow.  With that being said I enjoy both rows but the front row can be overwhelming for newbies (especially if there is lots of fast action). Some people love the front, others prefer the back. Having the option is pretty sweet though.



Dave Harper said:


> Oh now I remember that. Thanks for jogging my old memory guys! I had thought the client came through with sending the settings back to me or posting them but I guess not.
> 
> It should be fairly easy for someone with the right gear to get though. Just input what settings are there, tweak user settings to the environment and then do a calibration of he greyscale and CMS. If someone could do that it would be awesome! (Or send me your 5040/6040 and I’ll do a free calibration on it for you and post the results).


The one PDF floating around here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352

This one has your settings with oledurt's suggestions which have CMS values (I personally use that but with a color temp of 5--which might be a typo). We talked about sending mine to you last year but I chickened out, it's a long round trip and I am very happy with the settings and my setup. However, if you do get an Epson to tweak again an SDR2020 2.4 gamma calibration would be amazing.


----------



## Dave Harper

satyab said:


> @OrcusVaruna & @Dave Harper,
> 
> I am not sure if you are familiar with Panny 820 dynamic HDR Optimizer. If I use HDR optimizer ON, does the settings posted here are still a good choice? Does custom Gamma settings of 5040UB needs to be reset to 0?
> 
> Currently I am using Digital Cinema, gamma @ +2 and Auto Bright. Image looks good but I feel like there is more potential with 5040/820 combo.



Yes you can use my settings with the Panasonic HDR Optimizer on. If you leave it at default it’ll tone map to about 1,000 Nits and my HarperVision settings are mapped to about 1,100 nits iirc. There may be a setting or two that needs tweaked a few clicks but nothing drastic I’d imagine. This seems like it could work well with 4,000 nit+ transfers so it pre-tone maps the signal so you don’t have to adjust my base settings for higher nit transfers. 

You aren’t talking about converting HDR to SDR, right? Because that won’t work because my settings are based on receiving a full HDR PQ gamma signal.


----------



## Lithium

Dave Harper said:


> Yes you can use my settings with the Panasonic HDR Optimizer on. If you leave it at default it’ll tone map to about 1,000 Nits and my HarperVision settings are mapped to about 1,100 nits iirc. There may be a setting or two that needs tweaked a few clicks but nothing drastic I’d imagine. This seems like it could work well with 4,000 nit+ transfers so it pre-tone maps the signal so you don’t have to adjust my base settings for higher nit transfers.
> 
> You aren’t talking about converting HDR to SDR, right? Because that won’t work because my settings are based on receiving a full HDR PQ gamma signal.


As long as he retains the HDR and sets his display type in the player to Middle Luminance it will map content based on it's metadata to 1000nits and it will look very good with HarperVision. Obviously, 4,000nit+ disks show the biggest improvements. Blade Runner 2049, for example is mastered at 10,000 but the MaxCLL is something like 200 so you'll see the entire picture brighten significantly. Meanwhile, a movie like Mad Max is mastered at like 4000 but has a MaxCLL of like 10,000 so you'll see the white clipped areas of the picture dim and display more contrast (if that's the right word for it). To me, it also seems to eliminate the complaints people had about the fire looking overly fake as well.

Edit: I was wrong about BR2049. It brightened in SDR2020 mode not HDR. I'm sure there is some technical reason.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> Yes you can use my settings with the Panasonic HDR Optimizer on. If you leave it at default it’ll tone map to about 1,000 Nits and my HarperVision settings are mapped to about 1,100 nits iirc. There may be a setting or two that needs tweaked a few clicks but nothing drastic I’d imagine. This seems like it could work well with 4,000 nit+ transfers so it pre-tone maps the signal so you don’t have to adjust my base settings for higher nit transfers.
> 
> You aren’t talking about converting HDR to SDR, right? Because that won’t work because my settings are based on receiving a full HDR PQ gamma signal.




I actually just picked one up today and the best feature is definitely the mapping of 4000nit titles but even better are silly titles like sicario which are “mastered” at 4000nits but only have a bright point of 1100ish.while watching the movie you tap a button and poof optimizer is turned off and you can enjoy this title as is. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## satyab

Dave Harper said:


> Yes you can use my settings with the Panasonic HDR Optimizer on. If you leave it at default it’ll tone map to about 1,000 Nits and my HarperVision settings are mapped to about 1,100 nits iirc. There may be a setting or two that needs tweaked a few clicks but nothing drastic I’d imagine. This seems like it could work well with 4,000 nit+ transfers so it pre-tone maps the signal so you don’t have to adjust my base settings for higher nit transfers.
> 
> *You aren’t talking about converting HDR to SDR, right? Because that won’t work because my settings are based on receiving a full HDR PQ gamma signal.*


Thanks Dave. I am talking abut the settings where you set the Dynamic Range as SDR and with gamma settings 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28,-26,15,32. Can I keep the same settings or these needs to be reset to default to work with Optimizer ON?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

satyab said:


> Thanks Dave. I am talking abut the settings where you set the Dynamic Range as SDR and with gamma settings 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28,-26,15,32. Can I keep the same settings or these needs to be reset to default to work with Optimizer ON?




Tone mapping to standard dynamic range prior to outputting the signal would completely alter what settings you would use as the projector would never know it’s getting what was an HDR image. I personally don’t think there is much reason to have the player tone map to sdr as the settings we have now do this very well. I would output all hdr signals mapped to 1000nits and let the projector do its thing. I would then use the extensive optimizer settings in the player to tweak the resultant image to my liking. I will also let you know my thoughts when I have more then an afternoon with the player. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

satyab said:


> Thanks Dave. I am talking abut the settings where you set the Dynamic Range as SDR and with gamma settings 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28,-26,15,32. Can I keep the same settings or these needs to be reset to default to work with Optimizer ON?





OrcusVaruna said:


> Tone mapping to standard dynamic range prior to outputting the signal would completely alter what settings you would use as the projector would never know it’s getting what was an HDR image. I personally don’t think there is much reason to have the player tone map to sdr as the settings we have now do this very well. I would output all hdr signals mapped to 1000nits and let the projector do its thing. I would then use the extensive optimizer settings in the player to tweak the resultant image to my liking. I will also let you know my thoughts when I have more then an afternoon with the player.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes Orcus is right. If you tone map to SDR in the Player, then you’d be sending SDR into the 5040. My settings need the signal coming in to be HDR to work right. 

If it were me, I would setup my HarperVision settings and try those with a full HDR signal input and the HDR Optimizer on in the 820. I would also do a good ISF Calibration for SDR using maybe Cinema mode with a 2.4 Gamma and see how well the 820’s HDR to SDR tone mapping looks and compare them. According to @Kris Deering it looks and works amazingly well on projectors with lower nits than my LK970, like your 5040 and the JVCs and Sonys. 

Like Orcus, I do need to put aside some time to play with the 820 on my LK970 a lot more. As always though, time is my enemy!


----------



## Mikesp1

Dave Harper said:


> Yes Orcus is right. If you tone map to SDR in the Player, then you’d be sending SDR into the 5040. My settings need the signal coming in to be HDR to work right.
> 
> If it were me, I would setup my HarperVision settings and try those with a full HDR signal input and the HDR Optimizer on in the 820. I would also do a good ISF Calibration for SDR using maybe Cinema mode with a 2.4 Gamma and see how well the 820’s HDR to SDR tone mapping looks and compare them. According to @Kris Deering it looks and works amazingly well on projectors with lower nits than my LK970, like your 5040 and the JVCs and Sonys.
> 
> Like Orcus, I do need to put aside some time to play with the 820 on my LK970 a lot more. As always though, time is my enemy!


The BT2020SDR feature in the OPPO is great for people who can only run theit projector in eco mode.
I do it all the time with great results. Set the luminance slider to 300 and preset mode 4 in the OPPO.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> Yes Orcus is right. If you tone map to SDR in the Player, then you’d be sending SDR into the 5040. My settings need the signal coming in to be HDR to work right.
> 
> If it were me, I would setup my HarperVision settings and try those with a full HDR signal input and the HDR Optimizer on in the 820. I would also do a good ISF Calibration for SDR using maybe Cinema mode with a 2.4 Gamma and see how well the 820’s HDR to SDR tone mapping looks and compare them. According to @Kris Deering it looks and works amazingly well on projectors with lower nits than my LK970, like your 5040 and the JVCs and Sonys.
> 
> Like Orcus, I do need to put aside some time to play with the 820 on my LK970 a lot more. As always though, time is my enemy!



I can’t wait until 5000 lumen laser projectors wouldn’t require me to sell a kidney but that must be a nice toy to have in your theater. I’m jealous!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

Hi Guys,

So I installed my projector last night and began setting it up. I spent ages trying to get a perfectly squared image but got frustrated after a while and left it. It's close, but not quite perfect. 

How bad is keystone correction? Tempted to use it to correct it as I'm sick of moving the projector around trying to get it perfectly square, as it seems when I try to correct I end up over compensating a little in the other direction.

I'm not entirely sure where the issue is, as when I look at the image it looks slightly slanted, but if I use lens shift and raise it so that the top of the image is in line with the ceiling, it looks dead straight.

I measured the distance between the right side of the image and the end of the wall, and up top it was 0.4inches wider than the bottom, meaning the right border of the image is slanted towards the left by 0.4inches.

I also measured the distance between the floor and where the image begins on both the left and right sides, and the left side was higher by 0.2 inches. Any idea where it might be wrong?

I don't have the screen installed yet, was just projecting onto the wall.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Your wall that the screen is on is probably bowed. I had this happen when I set my projector up in its current spot. It took me forever to figure out it wasn’t the mount or the projectors angle to the wall but the actual screen following the contour of my not straight wall that was causing my issue. I shimmed out the screen about a 1/2” on the side that bent away from the projector and I suddenly had a wonderfully square image.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

OrcusVaruna said:


> I can’t wait until 5000 lumen laser projectors wouldn’t require me to sell a kidney but that must be a nice toy to have in your theater. I’m jealous!!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes it’s very nice indeed. I feel it’s the steal in its street price range, which can be had for about less than half of its MSRP.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> Yes Orcus is right. If you tone map to SDR in the Player, then you’d be sending SDR into the 5040. My settings need the signal coming in to be HDR to work right.
> 
> If it were me, I would setup my HarperVision settings and try those with a full HDR signal input and the HDR Optimizer on in the 820. I would also do a good ISF Calibration for SDR using maybe Cinema mode with a 2.4 Gamma and see how well the 820’s HDR to SDR tone mapping looks and compare them. According to @Kris Deering it looks and works amazingly well on projectors with lower nits than my LK970, like your 5040 and the JVCs and Sonys.
> 
> Like Orcus, I do need to put aside some time to play with the 820 on my LK970 a lot more. As always though, time is my enemy!




The Pany is quite an amazing machine, I messed with it’s SDR tone mapping a lot last night and it’s a game changer for ease of set-up. A normal buyer can do a simple 5 min SDR709 calibration with a consumer disc like DVE, boost color to about 70 and have an excellent rendering of hdr content. I’ll have to break out the meter and do a full calibration to SDR2020 but taking my current SDR709 calibration at 2.4 gamma and sliding color up to 68 made an image so good that I don’t feel I even have to o to enjoy the image. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> xpl0sive said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your wall that the screen is on is probably bowed. I had this happen when I set my projector up in its current spot. It took me forever to figure out it wasn’t the mount or the projectors angle to the wall but the actual screen following the contour of my not straight wall that was causing my issue. I shimmed out the screen about a 1/2” on the side that bent away from the projector and I suddenly had a wonderfully square image.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> How can I check for this? Doesn't look bowed from the naked eye.
Click to expand...


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> OrcusVaruna said:
> 
> 
> 
> How can I check for this? Doesn't look bowed from the naked eye.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try shimming out the screen on the larger side of the image a 1/2” or so. Unfortunately a 1/2” discrepancy is not really gonna be visible across a 5-10’ span so you just have to mess around with it.
> 
> EDIT: Just wanted to add that the whole wall may be crooked, I’ve seen that before as well and could be why you can’t see anything. The reason I recommend shimming the screen is mounting the projector at the exact angle of the wall is going to be difficult especially if you don’t know what wall is crooked.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## jordanfff

T-MAN_ said:


> Does this still stand?


+1


----------



## ccotenj

OrcusVaruna said:


> xpl0sive said:
> 
> 
> 
> Try shimming out the screen on the larger side of the image a 1/2” or so. Unfortunately a 1/2” discrepancy is not really gonna be visible across a 5-10’ span so you just have to mess around with it.
> 
> EDIT: Just wanted to add that the whole wall may be crooked, I’ve seen that before as well and could be why you can’t see anything. The reason I recommend shimming the screen is mounting the projector at the exact angle of the wall is going to be difficult especially if you don’t know what wall is crooked.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes to the wall may be crooked part. i have that problem, and i had to mess with shims for awhile before i got it "right".
Click to expand...


----------



## ccotenj

xpl0sive said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> So I installed my projector last night and began setting it up. I spent ages trying to get a perfectly squared image but got frustrated after a while and left it. It's close, but not quite perfect.
> 
> How bad is keystone correction? Tempted to use it to correct it as I'm sick of moving the projector around trying to get it perfectly square, as it seems when I try to correct I end up over compensating a little in the other direction.
> 
> I'm not entirely sure where the issue is, as when I look at the image it looks slightly slanted, but if I use lens shift and raise it so that the top of the image is in line with the ceiling, it looks dead straight.
> 
> I measured the distance between the right side of the image and the end of the wall, and up top it was 0.4inches wider than the bottom, meaning the right border of the image is slanted towards the left by 0.4inches.
> 
> I also measured the distance between the floor and where the image begins on both the left and right sides, and the left side was higher by 0.2 inches. Any idea where it might be wrong?
> 
> I don't have the screen installed yet, was just projecting onto the wall.



i would not use keystone correction unless ABSOLUTELY necessary. 



patience is a virtue when setting up a pj.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Just received my 5040UB on Sat.. Was up and running by Sat night... Man this was a friggin huge upgrade over the BenQ HT2150ST... Started with the settings listed above and have had to tweak from there...


----------



## monkaquinas

OrcusVaruna said:


> The Pany is quite an amazing machine, I messed with it’s SDR tone mapping a lot last night and it’s a game changer for ease of set-up. A normal buyer can do a simple 5 min SDR709 calibration with a consumer disc like DVE, boost color to about 70 and have an excellent rendering of hdr content. I’ll have to break out the meter and do a full calibration to SDR2020 but taking my current SDR709 calibration at 2.4 gamma and sliding color up to 68 made an image so good that I don’t feel I even have to o to enjoy the image.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can't wait to see what you are able to get after you calibrate using the SDR2020. I've been very happy with my settings since I acquired the 820 but you have an actual light meter, so it would be great for us to 5040 & 820 users.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jordanfff said:


> +1




Let me double check the saved gamma later and I’ll let you guys know


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

OrcusVaruna said:


> The Pany is quite an amazing machine, I messed with it’s SDR tone mapping a lot last night and it’s a game changer for ease of set-up. A normal buyer can do a simple 5 min SDR709 calibration with a consumer disc like DVE, boost color to about 70 and have an excellent rendering of hdr content. I’ll have to break out the meter and do a full calibration to SDR2020 but taking my current SDR709 calibration at 2.4 gamma and sliding color up to 68 made an image so good that I don’t feel I even have to o to enjoy the image.


Excited to hear that! I didn't spend much time in HDR -> SDR709 with the 820 but when I did it didn't seem to look as good as I expected with my default Natural mode. Maybe I needed to boost the color up. Can you explain the reasoning for doing that?

Looking forward to the HDR -> SDR2020, my initial testing with it in Digital Cinema gave me the impression that when tweak it would look very good.


----------



## Lithium

Lithium said:


> As long as he retains the HDR and sets his display type in the player to Middle Luminance it will map content based on it's metadata to 1000nits and it will look very good with HarperVision. Obviously, 4,000nit+ disks show the biggest improvements. Blade Runner 2049, for example is mastered at 10,000 but the MaxCLL is something like 200 so you'll see the entire picture brighten significantly. Meanwhile, a movie like Mad Max is mastered at like 4000 but has a MaxCLL of like 10,000 so you'll see the white clipped areas of the picture dim and display more contrast (if that's the right word for it). To me, it also seems to eliminate the complaints people had about the fire looking overly fake as well.
> 
> Edit: I was wrong about BR2049. It brightened in SDR2020 mode not HDR. I'm sure there is some technical reason.


Just a follow up on my post from the other day... the behavior was explained wonderfully here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-...r-s-thread-no-price-talk-55.html#post56919398

It also explains why HDR -> SDR mapping is so beneficial for projector owners like us.


----------



## Dave Harper

lithium said:


> just a follow up on my post from the other day... The behavior was explained wonderfully here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-...r-s-thread-no-price-talk-55.html#post56919398
> 
> 
> 
> it also explains why hdr -> sdr mapping is so beneficial for projector owners like us.




edit:


> ..... It also explains why hdr -> sdr mapping is so beneficial for *lower lumen* projector owners like us.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

monkaquinas said:


> I can't wait to see what you are able to get after you calibrate using the SDR2020. I've been very happy with my settings since I acquired the 820 but you have an actual light meter, so it would be great for us to 5040 & 820 users.



Yup I will do it for you guys on a nice rainy weekend day. It just takes me a LONG time with the meter since I’m new to calibrating. Also, I’m personally awful at telling apart small differences in color. To put it better originally with my HDR settings I calibrated to 709 for color and then boosted saturation until it looked good per Epson’s recommendation and then later calibrated out to as close to 2020 as I could get and honestly I struggle to see much difference at all. One thing I’ve learned through the process of learning how to calibrate is that I now understand why an ISF/THX calibrator costs $500ish lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lithium said:


> Excited to hear that! I didn't spend much time in HDR -> SDR709 with the 820 but when I did it didn't seem to look as good as I expected with my default Natural mode. Maybe I needed to boost the color up. Can you explain the reasoning for doing that?
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to the HDR -> SDR2020, my initial testing with it in Digital Cinema gave me the impression that when tweak it would look very good.




Definitely boost the color as they come across very undersaturated. I had to push it up north of 65 before the image started to liven up. As I said in another post it may just be my eyes but I really struggle to see the difference between close enough with bt2020 coverage and calibration perfect which is why even with optimizer I still prefer the extra light of Natural mode over using the color filter modes for HDr content. I know this may sound blasphemous but I also have a full Sonos surround system so Im not opposed to simulations, processing, and close enough 🤣


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

OrcusVaruna said:


> Definitely boost the color as they come across very undersaturated. I had to push it up north of 65 before the image started to liven up. As I said in another post it may just be my eyes but I really struggle to see the difference between close enough with bt2020 coverage and calibration perfect which is why even with optimizer I still prefer the extra light of Natural mode over using the color filter modes for HDr content. I know this may sound blasphemous but I also have a full Sonos surround system so Im not opposed to simulations, processing, and close enough 🤣
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Tone mapping to Rec709 and then stretching it out artificially to BT2020/DCI-P3 is NOT the way to do this! You need to send the full tone mapped HDR to SDR/BT2020 signal into the projector and then use the correct BT2020 mode on the 5040!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> Tone mapping to Rec709 and then stretching it out artificially to BT2020/DCI-P3 is NOT the way to do this! You need to send the full tone mapped HDR to SDR/BT2020 signal into the projector and then use the correct BT2020 mode on the 5040!




I realize that what I was saying is not valid or remotely correct and my meter confirms that stretching a 709 calibration out does a poor job. I was more saying that my eye for color is terrible and I don’t see much difference between a properly mapped image using the color filter vs a corresponding 709 stretched image or a calibrated image that is as close as possible not using the color filter. It just comes down to I prefer the additional light I get when using Natural for HDR material then differences in color I personally don’t notice. Does that make any sense? Lol 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> xpl0sive said:
> 
> 
> 
> Try shimming out the screen on the larger side of the image a 1/2” or so. Unfortunately a 1/2” discrepancy is not really gonna be visible across a 5-10’ span so you just have to mess around with it.
> 
> EDIT: Just wanted to add that the whole wall may be crooked, I’ve seen that before as well and could be why you can’t see anything. The reason I recommend shimming the screen is mounting the projector at the exact angle of the wall is going to be difficult especially if you don’t know what wall is crooked.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ccotenj said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OrcusVaruna said:
> 
> 
> 
> yes to the wall may be crooked part. i have that problem, and i had to mess with shims for awhile before i got it "right".
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ccotenj said:
> 
> 
> 
> i would not use keystone correction unless ABSOLUTELY necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> patience is a virtue when setting up a pj.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks guys. I'm going to get the screen up and take my time setting up the projector and see how I go. I'll start with the mount and projector itself and if I can't get it straight, I'll try shimming the screen.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## crumby2

Hello.
*Did someone kept the files of old firmwares (from epson site) ? like the **1.09* from febr.2017 _EPSONPJ_t5109_104.bin_ or the 1.08...

The dynamic iris (normal speed) doesn't go as low (during very dark scenes) as it used to be. And it doesn't help with the projector not great blacks.

Maybe it is my projector revision because i have a new one, but I want to see what happen with firmware ver. i had on my old one. I wonder if they didn't changed this with the various HDR "updates"

(Plus, the absolute black on my new one is quite purple and the native contrast is worse. At least, this one has not terrible color shading on whites)


----------



## theaterofpain

OrcusVaruna said:


> One thing I’ve learned through the process of learning how to calibrate is that I now understand why an ISF/THX calibrator costs $500ish lol.


Pro calibration return-on-investment is poor, especially if you're watching a lot, as the bulb will wear down faster and then you're back to recalibrating with a new bulb. My eyes and ears are the only calibration tools I need (starting from some accepted baseline settings posted on here) - my "reference calibration" is reference to what my eyes and ears see and hear to be the best. The other problem with pro calibration is if you're watching, say, source material from the 70s to today's colorful blockbusters, and someone is calibrating to the latest standards, then the older stuff's presentation will be skewed. If you have the tools to do it yourself, then go for it, but this ain't the late 90s when everyone had RGB projectors and stuff looked like crap out of the box. Now everything looks 95% there out of the box, especially the 5040.


----------



## inspector

theaterofpain said:


> Pro calibration return-on-investment is poor, especially if you're watching a lot, as the bulb will wear down faster and then you're back to recalibrating with a new bulb. My eyes and ears are the only calibration tools I need (starting from some accepted baseline settings posted on here) - my "reference calibration" is reference to what my eyes and ears see and hear to be the best. The other problem with pro calibration is if you're watching, say, source material from the 70s to today's colorful blockbusters, and someone is calibrating to the latest standards, then the older stuff's presentation will be skewed. If you have the tools to do it yourself, then go for it, but this ain't the late 90s when everyone had RGB projectors and stuff looked like crap out of the box. Now everything looks 95% there out of the box, especially the 5040.


 
I agree with some of that, but not all. JVCs above our price point have built in calibrators or can download and ours don't. You get what you pay for I guess.


With so many options for viewing, Dynamic, Cinema, etc., to pay for an ISFer, it's not worth it. I know, I spent $400 for one setting and it's not even the setting that I use for BD/SD viewing...what a loss of my hard earned money. I did have my Mit CRT 65711 ISFed twice. Had my Epson 9500UB once.


It would have been nice if there was one setting for UHD, BD/SD and 3D, but it's not and we have 8 settings to deal with.


The only ISFer that would be worth it would be one that has actually calibrated a 5040/6040. In your home he would be able to see which setting is for you.


To all the persons that have helped us to calibrate our PJs, a big THANK YOU.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

inspector said:


> I agree with some of that, but not all. JVCs above our price point have built in calibrators or can download and ours don't. You get what you pay for I guess.
> 
> 
> With so many options for viewing, Dynamic, Cinema, etc., to pay for an ISFer, it's not worth it. I know, I spent $400 for one setting and it's not even the setting that I use for BD/SD viewing...what a loss of my hard earned money. I did have my Mit CRT 65711 ISFed twice. Had my Epson 9500UB once.
> 
> 
> It would have been nice if there was one setting for UHD, BD/SD and 3D, but it's not and we have 8 settings to deal with.
> 
> 
> The only ISFer that would be worth it would be one that has actually calibrated a 5040/6040. In your home he would be able to see which setting is for you.
> 
> 
> To all the persons that have helped us to calibrate our PJs, a big THANK YOU.




I agree with some of that as well what I was more after was calibrating hdr ain’t easy or for the faint of heart. Especially on low nit displays. But I’m glad your enjoying and found the settings useful! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

OrcusVaruna said:


> I agree with some of that as well what I was more after was calibrating hdr ain’t easy or for the faint of heart. Especially on low nit displays. But I’m glad your enjoying and found the settings useful!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm glad as well OV... I have concluded that you can spend more time calibrating your PJ, than watching it. Enjoy Carpe Diem :angel: 

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## inspector

OrcusVaruna said:


> I agree with some of that as well what I was more after was calibrating hdr ain’t easy or for the faint of heart. Especially on low nit displays. But I’m glad your enjoying and found the settings useful!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



...you're right, HDR is another can of worms!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jordanfff said:


> +1



I just confirmed the gamma listed in those settings is what I am running 0,2,2,5,13,21,31,31,31



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## T-MAN_

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just confirmed the gamma listed in those settings is what I am running 0,2,2,5,13,21,31,31,31
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thank you! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Al O

inspector said:


> Hey T-Man, welcome aboard. I use 2 settings for 3D, 3D Dynamic for color and 3D Cinema for B & W. I'll post those setting in the next few days.
> 
> 
> My HT is pitch dark, so the settings I will post is what I like.


I only watch 3D at night, screen is 150" 16x9. Can you please post your settings, B & W movies like The Mad Magician I sometimes see crosstalk, your setting might help. Thank you


----------



## inspector

Al O said:


> I only watch 3D at night, screen is 150" 16x9. Can you please post your settings, B & W movies like The Mad Magician I sometimes see crosstalk, your setting might help. Thank you


PM sent.


----------



## jordanfff

OrcusVaruna said:


> I just confirmed the gamma listed in those settings is what I am running 0,2,2,5,13,21,31,31,31
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you Orcus


----------



## dave25

I've been having an issue with my 5040UB lately. Sometimes after starting it up, the picture will a few minutes later (~5 minutes) get a weird green tint. The tint will then disappear a after a few minutes and go back to normal. Sometimes (but not always), the green tint will transition into a pink blob, and back to green and then finally disappear for good - again a few minutes later.

This does not happen on every start up, and when it happens, it ALWAYS starts a few minutes after booting it up and itonly persists for a few minutes, probably 2-4 minutes tops. I've had instances where I used the projector for up to 12 hours afterwards with no further problems.

I caught the problem on video, by chance it happened to be probably the most extreme example of this issue. It has both the green tint and the pink bloom.





Anyone have any ideas why this is happening?


----------



## n4xxr76

dave25 said:


> I've been having an issue with my 5040UB lately. Sometimes after starting it up, the picture will a few minutes later (~5 minutes) get a weird green tint. The tint will then disappear a after a few minutes and go back to normal. Sometimes (but not always), the green tint will transition into a pink blob, and back to green and then finally disappear for good - again a few minutes later.
> 
> 
> 
> This does not happen on every start up, and when it happens, it ALWAYS starts a few minutes after booting it up and itonly persists for a few minutes, probably 2-4 minutes tops. I've had instances where I used the projector for up to 12 hours afterwards with no further problems.
> 
> 
> 
> I caught the problem on video, by chance it happened to be probably the most extreme example of this issue. It has both the green tint and the pink bloom.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_n7mVeQr5c
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any ideas why this is happening?




My unit being about a month out of warranty, I’ve also noticed a green tint during startup but it isn’t as extreme as your example. Mine stays green for about 20-30 seconds max before the picture normalizes on the screen and there is no sign of the “pink blob”. I first noticed this behavior mid-summer sometime. So far, I’ve just written it off to the bulb getting older (~1700 hours) and taking longer to warm up but what you show in your example is definitely not normal. I would contact customer service immediately and see what they say. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## satyab

@OrcusVaruna - When I use your settings, I see reds are brighter on my system. To correct it, should I work on color temp or RGB? Other than that, I am good with settings for most part. I use yours and Dave's based on content.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

satyab said:


> @OrcusVaruna - When I use your settings, I see reds are brighter on my system. To correct it, should I work on color temp or RGB? Other than that, I am good with settings for most part. I use yours and Dave's based on content.




You can absolutely tinker with the cms settings to adjust the image to your liking. My screen applies a decent blue push to the image which my cms settings account for. One thing I will say though is a properly calibrated image is far warmer (redder/yellower) then you are used too if you have never had a properly calibrated tv/projector before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

dave25 said:


> I've been having an issue with my 5040UB lately. Sometimes after starting it up, the picture will a few minutes later (~5 minutes) get a weird green tint. The tint will then disappear a after a few minutes and go back to normal. Sometimes (but not always), the green tint will transition into a pink blob, and back to green and then finally disappear for good - again a few minutes later.
> 
> This does not happen on every start up, and when it happens, it ALWAYS starts a few minutes after booting it up and itonly persists for a few minutes, probably 2-4 minutes tops. I've had instances where I used the projector for up to 12 hours afterwards with no further problems.
> 
> I caught the problem on video, by chance it happened to be probably the most extreme example of this issue. It has both the green tint and the pink bloom.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_n7mVeQr5c
> 
> Anyone have any ideas why this is happening?


Looks like a HDMI cable issue...just a guess. It this for all your devices or a specific device? Ensure your cables are High Premium. Monoprice has very good premium cables at a reasonable cost.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Azekecse said:


> Looks like a HDMI cable issue...just a guess. It this for all your devices or a specific device? Ensure your cables are High Premium. Monoprice has very good premium cables at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> 
> 
> Azeke



Cables make a huge difference and I’ve even had problems with Monoprice cables. When I picked up the Pany 820 this past weekend I had a certified premium Monoprice cable not pass the signal so not wanting to wait I ran back to bestbuy and sold one of my kidneys for an audio quest forest cable which passed the signal just fine. I’ve had to do this multiple times with 4K HDR’s bandwidth requirements and cheaper cables. I have had good luck with blue jeans cables though which are priced in between Monoprice and audio quests entry level offerings. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Evan201

I've had zero issues with the Monoprice 35' Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed HDMI. Maybe I just got lucky, but if it works at 35' I would think it will handle anything at shorter distance as well. Nice strong cable.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

I am also using a 35 foot run non-active cable, getting BT.2020 HDR 4k 4:2:2 12Bit (24Hz) without issue.....


----------



## satyab

OrcusVaruna said:


> You can absolutely tinker with the cms settings to adjust the image to your liking. My screen applies a decent blue push to the image which my cms settings account for. One thing I will say though is a properly calibrated image is far warmer (redder/yellower) then you are used too if you have never had a properly calibrated tv/projector before.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for response. I will try tinkering with CMS settings.
I always did calibration for myself using Spears'n'Munsil & Disney WOW on plasmas I had earlier. 
This time around I am so lost with HDR and also got lazy, just blindly following the settings from members here and playing with them to my tastes. I can't thank enough to you guys putting all the effort.


----------



## jnation

dave25 said:


> I've been having an issue with my 5040UB lately. Sometimes after starting it up, the picture will a few minutes later (~5 minutes) get a weird green tint. The tint will then disappear a after a few minutes and go back to normal. Sometimes (but not always), the green tint will transition into a pink blob, and back to green and then finally disappear for good - again a few minutes later.
> 
> This does not happen on every start up, and when it happens, it ALWAYS starts a few minutes after booting it up and itonly persists for a few minutes, probably 2-4 minutes tops. I've had instances where I used the projector for up to 12 hours afterwards with no further problems.
> 
> I caught the problem on video, by chance it happened to be probably the most extreme example of this issue. It has both the green tint and the pink bloom.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_n7mVeQr5c
> 
> Anyone have any ideas why this is happening?


 From the video that looks like something in the light path that is warming up and as it does so displays the moving magenta and green effects. I've seen a fixed magenta band on an old Epson model when the prism closest to the lamp slipped out of place vertically, others saw both magenta and green from a similar issue. Just my guess but its almost like in your case the prism might not be locked in place tightly and so as it warms up it distorts the colors. Again just a guess but it seems like a a very small horizontal movement of the prism perpendicular to the light path might cause what you're seeing.


If all my guessing is correct then it might be fixable by re-securing the prism, which could be quite simple, but that would involve opening up the unit. Before rushing to do anything I'd see if anyone else has had this specific problem, and of course if your unit is under warranty that would seem to be the way to go.


----------



## westbergjoakim

I can't remember where I saw these calibration settings, but what do you guys think of it?

CINEMA 
Brightness 56
Contrast 43
Color Sat 50
Tint 50

Sharpness 6 / 8 / 6

Color Temp 4
Skin Tone 3
Offset R 50
Offset G 49
Offset B 50
Gain R 50
Gain G 52
Gain B 42

Image Present Mode 3
Super Resolution 2 / 2
Detail Enchancement 25 / 25

Gamma 0, -3, -5, -7, -7, -7, -7, -8, 0

R 50 - 50 - 50
G 88 - 14 - 73
B 24 - 50 - 50
C 45 - 50 - 50
M 87 - 50 - 50
Y 48 - 27 - 64

Super White Off 
Lens Iris -20

Lamp Medium
Auto Iris Normal

And also, is it better using super white on? If yes, can anybody tell me why and what it does?

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

So I just ran into my first snag with the Panasonic UB 820. I slipped in a WB 4000nit title which is why I bought this player, pressed play and no audio. My initial thought was oops forgot to select convert all audio to Dolby Digital so my SONOS Playbase could play the audio. Much to my bewilderment there is NO option for this. Wtf. How does a $500 player not do this? My XBox One X and ATV4K does!!! Do any of you UB820 owners have a work around I’m missing? If not I’ll have to return this player as I bought it specifically to play wb and paramount titles mastered at 4000nits better and it just so happens they also are the primary users of dts audio. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## satyab

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I just ran into my first snag with the Panasonic UB 820. I slipped in a WB 4000nit title which is why I bought this player, pressed play and no audio. My initial thought was oops forgot to select convert all audio to Dolby Digital so my SONOS Playbase could play the audio. Much to my bewilderment there is NO option for this. Wtf. How does a $500 player not do this? My XBox One X and ATV4K does!!! Do any of you UB820 owners have a work around I’m missing? If not I’ll have to return this player as I bought it specifically to play wb and paramount titles mastered at 4000nits better and it just so happens they also are the primary users of dts audio.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Player Settings -> Audio -> Digital Audio Output -> 
Set Dolby Audio & DTS/DTS-HD to Bitstream
Set BD-Video Secondary Audio to *ON*
This will convert All Dolby Formats to Dolby Digital & All DTS HD formats to DTS.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

satyab said:


> Player Settings -> Audio -> Digital Audio Output ->
> 
> Set Dolby Audio & DTS/DTS-HD to Bitstream
> 
> Set BD-Video Secondary Audio to *ON*
> 
> This will convert All Dolby Formats to Dolby Digital & All DTS HD formats to DTS.




Problem is I need it to convert all dts hd formats to Dolby Digital not DTS. Sonos can not play any DTS format at all and only plays PCM in stereo only. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## satyab

OrcusVaruna said:


> Problem is I need it to convert all dts hd formats to Dolby Digital not DTS. Sonos can not play any DTS format at all and only plays PCM in stereo only.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Okay Got it. Panny players doesn't have this function . AFIK in dedicated 4K players only Samsung does. But all WB, Paramount & Sony 4K titles has Atmos/Dolby Tru HD tracks. You will have issues with some of 20th Fox & Universal studios who uses DTS:X randomly.


----------



## Dave Harper

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I just ran into my first snag with the Panasonic UB 820. I slipped in a WB 4000nit title which is why I bought this player, pressed play and no audio. My initial thought was oops forgot to select convert all audio to Dolby Digital so my SONOS Playbase could play the audio. Much to my bewilderment there is NO option for this. Wtf. How does a $500 player not do this? My XBox One X and ATV4K does!!! *Do any of you UB820 owners have a work around I’m missing? *If not I’ll have to return this player as I bought it specifically to play wb and paramount titles mastered at 4000nits better and it just so happens they also are the primary users of dts audio.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Getting rid of that Sonos is a good work around!


----------



## Azekecse

OrcusVaruna said:


> Cables make a huge difference and I’ve even had problems with Monoprice cables. When I picked up the Pany 820 this past weekend I had a certified premium Monoprice cable not pass the signal so not wanting to wait I ran back to bestbuy and sold one of my kidneys for an audio quest forest cable which passed the signal just fine. I’ve had to do this multiple times with 4K HDR’s bandwidth requirements and cheaper cables. I have had good luck with blue jeans cables though which are priced in between Monoprice and audio quests entry level offerings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 I use Audio Quest cables as well, they work well, and I receive a discount, hence, I've retained all my organs...

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Argyle Shepard

Can anyone point me to the best picture settings when pairing the 5040 to the PS4 and Xbox one x via the HD fury linker? I used to just use the PS4 without the HDR, but now that I got an xbox one x I needed the fury linker to get it to display 4K. I had some custom settings that I used for my Panasonic uhd player, but those use a specific gamma curve and bt709, and they don’t translate when the consoles are in hdr. Any help is appreciated as games like Spider-Man and Forza are either looking too saturated with the auto hdr presets or too flat with the custom settings I use for the UHD player.


----------



## misterg51

Argyle Shepard said:


> Can anyone point me to the best picture settings when pairing the 5040 to the PS4 and Xbox one x via the HD fury linker? I used to just use the PS4 without the HDR, but now that I got an xbox one x I needed the fury linker to get it to display 4K. I had some custom settings that I used for my Panasonic uhd player, but those use a specific gamma curve and bt709, and they don’t translate when the consoles are in hdr. Any help is appreciated as games like Spider-Man and Forza are either looking too saturated with the auto hdr presets or too flat with the custom settings I use for the UHD player.


I used Calman for the 5040 and then used the settings below. Maybe optimize picture in the XBox One X? Mine didn't need it.....
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-390.html#post55153048
*post #11674* of 15488 Old 11-18-2017, 05:10 AM


----------



## Tristan944

I also have AudioQuest Forest cables and they work perfectly.



OrcusVaruna said:


> Azekecse said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a HDMI cable issue...just a guess. It this for all your devices or a specific device? Ensure your cables are High Premium. Monoprice has very good premium cables at a reasonable cost.
> 
> 
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> 
> 
> Azeke
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cables make a huge difference and I’ve even had problems with Monoprice cables. When I picked up the Pany 820 this past weekend I had a certified premium Monoprice cable not pass the signal so not wanting to wait I ran back to bestbuy and sold one of my kidneys for an audio quest forest cable which passed the signal just fine. I’ve had to do this multiple times with 4K HDR’s bandwidth requirements and cheaper cables. I have had good luck with blue jeans cables though which are priced in between Monoprice and audio quests entry level offerings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## djstep

*Firmware link?*

I've looked all over the Epson support site for the links to the latest firmware but can't see them anymore. Does anyone have a direct link for the 5040 UBE please? I must be missing something.


----------



## satyab

What happened to all the posts after 10/01???


----------



## ac388

*Youtube 4K HDR*

You meant the current Youtube only provides 4K SDR, even though some titles said 4K HDR, right ??? I am currently using the Youtube apps from Panasonic UB820.







OrcusVaruna said:


> Yes you get 4K HDR from Netflix and at 24hz to boot! The 5.1 issue with amazon has changed over the past few months considerably and HDR for YouTube is supposedly coming as well. Also, you get Vudu HDR at 24hz and HBO HDR is supposed to be coming for the final season of game of thrones. If your a YouTube TV subscriber you get 5.1 audio and 60hz streams on the same stations as chromecast. I am also heavily invested in Apple and have loads of iTunes movies. The video processor and scaler in the ATV4K is awesome. Not sure how the one in the shield is but it’s definitely not better then the ATV4K. The last thing is your guaranteed that both apples software and apps will be updated and have features added for many years.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikesp1

*THX Tune Up app*

Anybody tried the THX Tune Up app?
Whit the app you can use your smartphone as a colorimeter.


----------



## Azekecse

satyab said:


> What happened to all the posts after 10/01???


We're back in business now, I wondered the same thing...looked like a software/administrative issue.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## T-MAN_

ac388 said:


> You meant the current Youtube only provides 4K SDR, even though some titles said 4K HDR, right ??? I am currently using the Youtube apps from Panasonic UB820.




I get YouTube in 4K HDR. It’s there and it works (via my LG TV app). But I think the reference was to Apple TV which still doesn’t support it yet 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

Have anybody tried aaranddeeman's 1080p settings? Those with gamma 2.4. Thoughts? How are they compared to the others settings?
View attachment Epson_6040UB_Cinema_Settings.doc


Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Al O

djstep said:


> I've looked all over the Epson support site for the links to the latest firmware but can't see them anymore. Does anyone have a direct link for the 5040 UBE please? I must be missing something.


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Al O said:


> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805



I had to call Epson support and a tech emailed me the firmware. They did ask that I not share it with anyone for warranty purposes and I will respect that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## T-MAN_

OrcusVaruna said:


> I had to call Epson support and a tech emailed me the firmware. They did ask that I not share it with anyone for warranty purposes and I will respect that.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Is what they sent you different or more updated than what is posted on their site? I downloaded 1.12/1.11 a week or so ago and updated my projector.

Not asking you to share it. Just curious if there are any changes/improvements if it’s a later version.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

T-MAN_ said:


> Is what they sent you different or more updated than what is posted on their site? I downloaded 1.12/1.11 a week or so ago and updated my projector.
> 
> Not asking you to share it. Just curious if there are any changes/improvements if it’s a later version.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




No the version I was sent back in April was 1.12 and I’m not aware of any more recent updates. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## chickenbc49

*New FW ?1.13*

Hi ,

mi projector just come back from Epson support ( dust inside ,and bulb problem) .

they give it back with a new bulb , no more Dust and a new FW 1.13 ??!! .



don't know the difference between 1.12 and 1.13 ..., and 1.13 is not available anywhere .

so no clues about changes .


----------



## CB Cburner

Just noticed on my tw9300 (maybe after i updated 2 days ago to fw1.12) that in fast moving scenes i get alot of horizontal artifacts (??) over the picture. Alot also with like 5-10 sec intervall..
Havent seen it in the first 750hrs using it. From all sources (UHD through panasonic ud820, nvidia shield) . Signal going through my Marantz 8012. Have tried numerous settings in both AVR and
on the PJ, with no success.

Anyone know what this is and how to get rid of it?


----------



## Pikeman56

Is the power supply issue still something that is plaguing these units? I'm trying to decide between the 5040 or the 4010. On paper the 5040 looks like a better unit but I'd hate to get one and the power supply crap out on me. I'm upgrading my Benq 2050. I had ordered a TK800 but had a few issues with the unit and just ended up returning it. Now I'm leaning toward the Epsons, just not sure which one I want to get.


----------



## gene4ht

Pikeman56 said:


> *Is the power supply issue still something that is plaguing these units?* I'm trying to decide between the 5040 or the 4010. On paper the 5040 looks like a better unit but I'd hate to get one and the power supply crap out on me. I'm upgrading my Benq 2050. I had ordered a TK800 but had a few issues with the unit and just ended up returning it. Now I'm leaning toward the Epsons, just not sure which one I want to get.



This is the reason I have been advocating why Epson management should have addressed this issue with a public positional statement. Regardless of the percentage of sales these projector's represent, an entity's image and success is highly dependent on customer satisfaction. Even understanding that Japan's traditional culture may not mirror the rest of the world, it would seem both incumbent and appropriate for Epson's U.S. management team to communicate this need to corporate officials. Just my .02


----------



## Evan201

Pikeman56 said:


> Is the power supply issue still something that is plaguing these units? I'm trying to decide between the 5040 or the 4010. On paper the 5040 looks like a better unit but I'd hate to get one and the power supply crap out on me. I'm upgrading my Benq 2050. I had ordered a TK800 but had a few issues with the unit and just ended up returning it. Now I'm leaning toward the Epsons, just not sure which one I want to get.



Zero issues with mine after almost 2 years and someone else mentioned that Epson stated only 5% of units were effected by this issue. The 5040ub is the best bang for buck out there.


----------



## CB Cburner

This is how the distorted image looks like


----------



## gene4ht

Evan201 said:


> Zero issues with mine after almost 2 years and someone else mentioned that Epson stated only 5% of units were effected by this issue. The 5040ub is the best bang for buck out there.



My 5040 will be 2 years old next month and I've also experienced zero issues. Depending on sources, I've seen a range of failure rates reported from 5% to 40% as information can be spun/skewed for various purposes/reasons. As they say, the truth/reality is somewhere in between but only Epson know's the actual failure rates. I would still buy this PJ again for it's image quality and value. Maybe this is why Epson has chosen to remain silent.


----------



## Jamie Payne

Sorry for rehashing topics that have been discussed many times, but this thread is monstrous and hard to tell what info is current.

I've had my 5040ub for almost 2 years. A few months after I bought it I gave up trying to sort through the compatibility issues and decided to just enjoy what I could get using a Roku Ultra. I've now come back hoping to benefit from updates since then. I just updated my firmware and bought a Shield. From what I can see, I can get Netflix and Prime in 4k HDR if I configure the Shield HDMI settings to use 30hz or lower. I'm happy with this but when I watch PSVue on the Shield I now get judder unless I switch the settings back to 60hz.

I was hoping the Shield would solve this but it seems like I still need to many change settings based on the app that I'm using to get the best picture. Is this the case, or am I missing something?

Thanks


----------



## Stereojeff

Pikeman56 said:


> Is the power supply issue still something that is plaguing these units? I'm trying to decide between the 5040 or the 4010. On paper the 5040 looks like a better unit but I'd hate to get one and the power supply crap out on me. I'm upgrading my Benq 2050. I had ordered a TK800 but had a few issues with the unit and just ended up returning it. Now I'm leaning toward the Epsons, just not sure which one I want to get.



Per my conversation with a friend (and long-time exec) at Epson during the recent CEDIA Expo, the power supply issues have been fixed. 



Jeff


----------



## gene4ht

Stereojeff said:


> Per my conversation with a friend (and long-time exec) at Epson during the recent CEDIA Expo, the power supply issues have been fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff



It's anecdotal but Excellent! Can you ask your friend why the secrecy?


----------



## MMoser

Stereojeff said:


> Per my conversation with a friend (and long-time exec) at Epson during the recent CEDIA Expo, the power supply issues have been fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff


Great to hear its been fixed Stereojeff. Just to confirm, has the power issue has been fixed on the current 5040ub/6040ub, the new upcoming models, or both? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

MMoser said:


> Great to hear its been fixed Stereojeff. Just to confirm, has the power issue has been fixed on the current 5040ub/6040ub, the new upcoming models, or both?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



Again, a statement from Epson would remove any questions, uncertainty, and speculation.


----------



## djmattyb

chickenbc49 said:


> Hi ,
> 
> mi projector just come back from Epson support ( dust inside ,and bulb problem) .
> 
> they give it back with a new bulb , no more Dust and a new FW 1.13 ??!! .
> 
> 
> 
> don't know the difference between 1.12 and 1.13 ..., and 1.13 is not available anywhere .
> 
> so no clues about changes .


Me too. I just had a replacement installed on Monday and it has 113 at the end.


----------



## seplant

CB Cburner said:


> Just noticed on my tw9300 (maybe after i updated 2 days ago to fw1.12) that in fast moving scenes i get alot of horizontal artifacts (??) over the picture. Alot also with like 5-10 sec intervall..
> Havent seen it in the first 750hrs using it. From all sources (UHD through panasonic ud820, nvidia shield) . Signal going through my Marantz 8012. Have tried numerous settings in both AVR and
> on the PJ, with no success.
> 
> Anyone know what this is and how to get rid of it?


Saw your pictures you posted. I've been running 1.12 for months and have never seen anything like this. I suggest you try connecting one of your sources directly to the projector to see if the issue goes away. That would eliminate your receiver as the source of the issue. You can also try to turn off settings of the projector one at a time to see if each has any effect. I was having terrible crosstalk issues with 3D content, but turning off the auto iris resolved that issue. Who would've thought the auto iris would cause crosstalk!


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks.




T-MAN_ said:


> I get YouTube in 4K HDR. It’s there and it works (via my LG TV app). But I think the reference was to Apple TV which still doesn’t support it yet
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jamie Payne

Jamie Payne said:


> Sorry for rehashing topics that have been discussed many times, but this thread is monstrous and hard to tell what info is current.
> 
> I've had my 5040ub for almost 2 years. A few months after I bought it I gave up trying to sort through the compatibility issues and decided to just enjoy what I could get using a Roku Ultra. I've now come back hoping to benefit from updates since then. I just updated my firmware and bought a Shield. From what I can see, I can get Netflix and Prime in 4k HDR if I configure the Shield HDMI settings to use 30hz or lower. I'm happy with this but when I watch PSVue on the Shield I now get judder unless I switch the settings back to 60hz.
> 
> I was hoping the Shield would solve this but it seems like I still need to many change settings based on the app that I'm using to get the best picture. Is this the case, or am I missing something?
> 
> Thanks


Actually I just realized that I'm only getting HDR for Netflix. So right now I'm getting minimal benefits from Shield (HDR for Netflix) with some issues (need to switch HDMI settings based on the app I'm using). I assume this isn't what everyone else is seeig with Shield since it's frequently recommended for use with the 5040. Can anyone clarify what I should expect from Shield or provide any guidance on how to resolve the issues I'm having?

Thanks


----------



## bluer101

Can I use the USB port to power a USB fan rated at 3-6 volts 1.1 watt max? Also will it turn off and on with the projector?


----------



## gunlife

Jamie Payne said:


> Actually I just realized that I'm only getting HDR for Netflix. So right now I'm getting minimal benefits from Shield (HDR for Netflix) with some issues (need to switch HDMI settings based on the app I'm using). I assume this isn't what everyone else is seeig with Shield since it's frequently recommended for use with the 5040. Can anyone clarify what I should expect from Shield or provide any guidance on how to resolve the issues I'm having?
> 
> Thanks


I would like to know this as well. I hate having to switch back and forth. I can get HDR from Amazon and Netflix. I have heard that if you run Amazon and Netflix through the Kodi app that it will do auto framerate matching. But I am not sure how that works. Hopefully someone smarter than me can point us in the right direction.


----------



## jimjans

chickenbc49 said:


> Hi ,
> 
> mi projector just come back from Epson support ( dust inside ,and bulb problem) .
> 
> they give it back with a new bulb , no more Dust and a new FW 1.13 ??!! .
> 
> 
> 
> don't know the difference between 1.12 and 1.13 ..., and 1.13 is not available anywhere .
> 
> so no clues about changes .


You can find the 1.13 firmware on the Epson Australia site.


----------



## T-MAN_

jimjans said:


> You can find the 1.13 firmware on the Epson Australia site.




Thank you. Yes it's there. So what's new?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ANDYK48

Here is the download link for the latest firmware

http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp


From the menu on the left, choose projectors, then from the menu on the right choose EPSON EH-TW9300 or TW9300W for the wireless mode.

From the page that loads afterwards, choose all then scroll down to the next page that loads and you will find the new firmware


----------



## Lesmor

ANDYK48 said:


> Here is the download link for the latest firmware
> 
> http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp
> 
> 
> From the menu on the left, choose projectors, then from the menu on the right choose EPSON EH-TW9300 or TW9300W for the wireless mode.
> 
> From the page that loads afterwards, choose all then scroll down to the next page that loads and you will find the new firmware


whats the changelog with this firmware?


----------



## satyab

I have updated 1.13 firmware from AU site to 5040UB. I didn't see anything new or improvements.


----------



## T-MAN_

satyab said:


> I have updated 1.13 firmware from AU site to 5040UB. I didn't see anything new or improvements.




What about picture quality (eg HDR) improvements? 

Does anyone have any contact within Epson who can actually tell us what's changed?


----------



## inspector

Lesmor said:


> whats the changelog with this firmware?



That's why some of us will stick with 1.11 and be happy that it doesn't F*** everything else up!


----------



## satyab

T-MAN_ said:


> What about picture quality (eg HDR) improvements?
> 
> Does anyone have any contact within Epson who can actually tell us what's changed?


Nope.. I suggest stick with 1.11. I am actually feeling like HDR looking darker for the same settings. I only checked Netflix so far. Will see how it looks with UHD discs.


----------



## T-MAN_

satyab said:


> Nope.. I suggest stick with 1.11. I am actually feeling like HDR looking darker for the same settings. I only checked Netflix so far. Will see how it looks with UHD discs.






inspector said:


> That's why some of us will stick with 1.11 and be happy that it doesn't F*** everything else up!




Wait so 1.12 is worse than 1.11? How so? I recently upgraded to 1.12. If it is worse then can I downgrade back? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

You know, I personally don't know if its worse. My player works fine without any updates, so I'm happy where I'm at, that's all I'm saying.


----------



## spirithockey79

T-MAN_ said:


> Wait so 1.12 is worse than 1.11? How so? I recently upgraded to 1.12. If it is worse then can I downgrade back?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I’ve been on 1.12 for several months and haven’t had any issues. I thought 1.12 is what added the Auto Bright HDR setting, but could be wrong. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## satyab

spirithockey79 said:


> I’ve been on 1.12 for several months and haven’t had any issues. I thought 1.12 is what added the Auto Bright HDR setting, but could be wrong.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


1.11 added the Auto Bright the last best update IMO. There were complaints 1.12 made HDR bit darker.


----------



## rgraylin

Guys could use some help understanding why below is happening.

Sony X800 Netflix Preview Causes Epson to Blank for 5sec:
• Have, Sony X800, Epson 5040, and Marantz SR6011 with video conversion disabled.
• Netflix app on Sony X800 will cause projector to go blank for 5 sec as soon as video preview starts, like when switching to Cinema mode causes the Epson to blank the screen for a few seconds. The blanking (I'll call switching output) makes using Netflix app useless as projector takes a good 5 secs to switch output when previews start for some videos. 
○ Epson Info screen shows 4k, 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.709 SDR for each preview, Haunted and Gnome Alone, but Epson still switching output as though something is different between the two previews
• After testing, figured out if I disable 24p Output for Network Content on X800, Network Content = OFF, Netflix app sends 59.93Hz signal to projector and no switching occurs cycling through previews. So with 24p Output for Network Content set to AUTO, some previews cause the Epson to switch output.
• While this fixed Netflix app, Amazon app on X800 won't send UHD if above setting is OFF on X800.
○ Amazon app on X800 does send UHD with Epson 5040: 4K, 23.97 Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR as long as above setting is set to AUTO

Any ideas or explanation on why this is happening?


----------



## westbergjoakim

rgraylin said:


> Guys could use some help understanding why below is happening.
> 
> Sony X800 Netflix Preview Causes Epson to Blank for 5sec:
> • Have, Sony X800, Epson 5040, and Marantz SR6011 with video conversion disabled.
> • Netflix app on Sony X800 will cause projector to go blank for 5 sec as soon as video preview starts, like when switching to Cinema mode causes the Epson to blank the screen for a few seconds. The blanking (I'll call switching output) makes using Netflix app useless as projector takes a good 5 secs to switch output when previews start for some videos.
> ○ Epson Info screen shows 4k, 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.709 SDR for each preview, Haunted and Gnome Alone, but Epson still switching output as though something is different between the two previews
> • After testing, figured out if I disable 24p Output for Network Content on X800, Network Content = OFF, Netflix app sends 59.93Hz signal to projector and no switching occurs cycling through previews. So with 24p Output for Network Content set to AUTO, some previews cause the Epson to switch output.
> • While this fixed Netflix app, Amazon app on X800 won't send UHD if above setting is OFF on X800.
> ○ Amazon app on X800 does send UHD with Epson 5040: 4K, 23.97 Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR as long as above setting is set to AUTO
> 
> Any ideas or explanation on why this is happening?


If you output 60hz (as Netflix are using) no switch will occure.

I'm using Shield for the Netflix app and even if I was outputing 4K 23.97hz with movies and series in 4k HDR I was only getting 1080p even if Epsons info stated that i was reciving 4K with HDR.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

westbergjoakim said:


> rgraylin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Guys could use some help understanding why below is happening.
> 
> Sony X800 Netflix Preview Causes Epson to Blank for 5sec:
> • Have, Sony X800, Epson 5040, and Marantz SR6011 with video conversion disabled.
> • Netflix app on Sony X800 will cause projector to go blank for 5 sec as soon as video preview starts, like when switching to Cinema mode causes the Epson to blank the screen for a few seconds. The blanking (I'll call switching output) makes using Netflix app useless as projector takes a good 5 secs to switch output when previews start for some videos.
> ○ Epson Info screen shows 4k, 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.709 SDR for each preview, Haunted and Gnome Alone, but Epson still switching output as though something is different between the two previews
> • After testing, figured out if I disable 24p Output for Network Content on X800, Network Content = OFF, Netflix app sends 59.93Hz signal to projector and no switching occurs cycling through previews. So with 24p Output for Network Content set to AUTO, some previews cause the Epson to switch output.
> • While this fixed Netflix app, Amazon app on X800 won't send UHD if above setting is OFF on X800.
> ○ Amazon app on X800 does send UHD with Epson 5040: 4K, 23.97 Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR as long as above setting is set to AUTO
> 
> Any ideas or explanation on why this is happening?
> 
> 
> 
> If you output 60hz (as Netflix are using) no switch will occure.
> 
> I'm using Shield for the Netflix app and even if I was outputing 4K 23.97hz with movies and series in 4k HDR I was only getting 1080p even if Epsons info stated that i was reciving 4K with HDR.
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thats strange because I am running a shield and have been watching season 3 of The Man in the high castle. If i set the shield to output 4k 23.97 bt2020 amazon stream says its sending 4k hdr stream. And it damn sure looks 4k too. Netflix i do think is only sending 1080p hdr but haven't played with it enough


----------



## satyab

How often we need to change the air filter? I am @ 1650 Hours, never changed/cleaned filter. Epson site has replacement lamp for 300$. Any cheaper alternatives?


----------



## Evan201

satyab said:


> How often we need to change the air filter? I am @ 1650 Hours, never changed/cleaned filter. Epson site has replacement lamp for 300$. Any cheaper alternatives?


The more often you do it the more life those mirrors will have. The temp inside is what you worry about and why I always run high altitude mode. Cant hurt says epson. Put a vacuum to it from time to time and change it probably once a year or more. Depends on conditions in your viewing area and how often you use it. You'll see it get grey pretty fast. 
Lamps should be around $250 last i've seen. Don't put third party lamps in a nice machine like that. Not worth the risk or life compared to Epsons.


----------



## Dave Harper

Evan201 said:


> *The more often you do it the more life those mirrors will have. *The temp inside is what you worry about and why I always run high altitude mode. Cant hurt says epson. Put a vacuum to it from time to time and change it probably once a year or more. Depends on conditions in your viewing area and how often you use it. You'll see it get grey pretty fast.
> 
> Lamps should be around $250 last i've seen. Don't put third party lamps in a nice machine like that. Not worth the risk or life compared to Epsons.



Mirrors? This isn’t a DLP.


----------



## rgraylin

westbergjoakim said:


> If you output 60hz (as Netflix are using) no switch will occure.
> 
> I'm using Shield for the Netflix app and even if I was outputing 4K 23.97hz with movies and series in 4k HDR I was only getting 1080p even if Epsons info stated that i was reciving 4K with HDR.
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


Agree that 60Hz stops the switching, but then don’t get 4k HDR on Amazon app. :-(


----------



## westbergjoakim

rgraylin said:


> Agree that 60Hz stops the switching, but then don’t get 4k HDR on Amazon app. :-(


I haven't tried it myself, but HD Fury Integral have been recommended multiple times here to go around this. Search or maybe someone else will shim in about this. 

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## jimjans

Evan201 said:


> The more often you do it the more life those mirrors will have. The temp inside is what you worry about and why I always run high altitude mode. Cant hurt says epson. Put a vacuum to it from time to time and change it probably once a year or more. Depends on conditions in your viewing area and how often you use it. You'll see it get grey pretty fast.
> Lamps should be around $250 last i've seen. Don't put third party lamps in a nice machine like that. Not worth the risk or life compared to Epsons.


Are the lamps so expensive in USA? They cost about 135$ in Sweden (Europe ) directly from Epson.


----------



## Vaggeto

ANDYK48 said:


> Here is the download link for the latest firmware
> 
> http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp
> 
> 
> From the menu on the left, choose projectors, then from the menu on the right choose EPSON EH-TW9300 or TW9300W for the wireless mode.
> 
> From the page that loads afterwards, choose all then scroll down to the next page that loads and you will find the new firmware



Hi,


Does this apply to both the 5040 and 6040? I know the 6040 has additional menu settings, so I'm not sure if the firmware is also different.


----------



## epetti

Hi all. I have what I think is a lens cleaning question. 

Was watching a show on my 5040 tonight and I started noticing a soft spot at the upper edge of the screen I'd never seen before. 










I tried cleaning the outside of the lens to no effect. Trying to look in while displaying a black screen, it looks like there might be a dust mote inside the lens. How does that happen and is there any safe way to clean it or do I have to take it in somewhere for service?

Thanks for any advice.


----------



## xpl0sive

I've had my Epson up and running since the weekend and have tried some of the custom settings floating around here and I gotta say, I like Dave Harper's settings the best. The colours really pop and the image looks very natural. Thanks to everyone that's contributed to this thread as far as custom settings go.

Does anyone happen to have some ideal settings for gaming? I have a PS4 Pro I want to take advantage of. My room is painted black if that makes a difference.


----------



## Tristan944

xpl0sive said:


> I've had my Epson up and running since the weekend and have tried some of the custom settings floating around here and I gotta say, I like Dave Harper's settings the best. The colours really pop and the image looks very natural. Thanks to everyone that's contributed to this thread as far as custom settings go.
> 
> Does anyone happen to have some ideal settings for gaming? I have a PS4 Pro I want to take advantage of. My room is painted black if that makes a difference.


Can you provide the settings or a link to his settings? Thank you.

I just got a new 6040ub under warranty. In the firmware area it says "Video2 7YL28RMV111". I don't know if that is the firmware version, or if I should update it to a newer version.


----------



## Dave Harper

Tristan944 said:


> Can you provide the settings or a link to his settings? Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> I just got a new 6040ub under warranty. In the firmware area it says "Video2 7YL28RMV111". I don't know if that is the firmware version, or if I should update it to a newer version.



They’re in my signature below. You may have to use a PC to view this and see it.


----------



## xpl0sive

Just search this thread for HarperVision and you'll find it


----------



## ANDYK48

Vaggeto said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> Does this apply to both the 5040 and 6040? I know the 6040 has additional menu settings, so I'm not sure if the firmware is also different.


From experience the 5040 and 6040 are the same machines, so the firmware should apply to both without problems. Can someone with a 6040 confirm this ?


----------



## Tristan944

In the menu, the "4K Enhancement" and other settings are greyed out. Why is this? Is there some other setting I need to enable to allow these other settings to be enabled?


----------



## monkaquinas

Tristan944 said:


> In the menu, the "4K Enhancement" and other settings are greyed out. Why is this? Is there some other setting I need to enable to allow these other settings to be enabled?


This setting is grayed out when the system is receiving a 4k signal. You can only enable/disable it with a 1080P signal.


----------



## JewDaddy

Still no word on whether there will be a 5050 projector coming out this year or next??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tristan944

Dave Harper said:


> They’re in my signature below. You may have to use a PC to view this and see it.


Thank you, I used my PC and it worked. I'm excited to see what these settings look like. It's hard to imagine it would look good with contrast at 100%! What are some of the other settings that are popular?


----------



## Dave Harper

Tristan944 said:


> Thank you, I used my PC and it worked. I'm excited to see what these settings look like. It's hard to imagine it would look good with contrast at 100%! What are some of the other settings that are popular?



Contrast will depend on each other’s setup. It’s best to get a calibration disc or files like the Ryan Masciola set and use those for setting that user stuff up. I think in the end I was at about 93 iirc. 

Also know that the settings I posted don’t include a full greyscale and CMS calibration. I did them but the numbers got lost somehow and I haven’t had one here since to do it again. I still have an offer out to anyone who wants a free HarperVision setup with full calibration to send me their unit to do this for the benefit of everyone here.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> Contrast will depend on each other’s setup. It’s best to get a calibration disc or files like the Ryan Masciola set and use those for setting that user stuff up. I think in the end I was at about 93 iirc.
> 
> Also know that the settings I posted don’t include a full greyscale and CMS calibration. I did them but the numbers got lost somehow and I haven’t had one here since to do it again. I still have an offer out to anyone who wants a free HarperVision setup with full calibration to send me their unit to do this for the benefit of everyone here.



Dave I am going to be moving soon and have to take the projector down anyway so I might be able to take you up on that offer. What state do you live in? With my luck probably Hawaii or Alaska so shipping will be about $400 from Florida 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jem87

Where’s the best place to get a replacement lamp for this projector? Any good places to order within Canada? I’m in Ontario, Canada. Epson.ca is out of stock. 

Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Dave Harper

OrcusVaruna said:


> Dave I am going to be moving soon and have to take the projector down anyway so I might be able to take you up on that offer. What state do you live in? *With my luck probably Hawaii* or Alaska so shipping will be about $400 from Florida
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Ding, ding, ding.....we have a winner!!! I am in Hawaii! 🤣 but ............

.......I get super amazing rates with UPS from my job so I can setup the label and pass the savings on to you and then you just pay me the shipping costs.


----------



## Tristan944

chickenbc49 said:


> Hi ,
> 
> mi projector just come back from Epson support ( dust inside ,and bulb problem) .
> 
> they give it back with a new bulb , no more Dust and a new FW 1.13 ??!! .
> 
> 
> 
> don't know the difference between 1.12 and 1.13 ..., and 1.13 is not available anywhere .
> 
> so no clues about changes .


My warranty replacement 6040UB also came with firmware version 1.13.


----------



## T-MAN_

Dave Harper said:


> Ding, ding, ding.....we have a winner!!! I am in Hawaii!  but ............
> 
> .......I get super amazing rates with UPS from my job so I can setup the label and pass the savings on to you and then you just pay me the shipping costs.




This will fantastic as you should also have the other HDR settings other people have been using recently (including Orcus’s) saved on the projector so that you can compare your Harpervision to these settings and we can settle this (all good intentioned) back and forth once and for all 

Looking forward to it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

Hi Guys,

Just wondering if anyone can assist. I'm struggling to get a perfectly square image on my projector. The attached image is as close as I've got it. When I zoom in, the left and right borders start to disappear from the screen. They also aren't perfectly straight as you can see from the image. both lines slope slightly in opposite directions.

Second problem I have is that the bottom border is slightly bowed, and slopes towards the left very slightly.

It's hard to capture in a photo, but it's more noticeable in person. Is this worth even correcting, or should I just leave it?


----------



## westbergjoakim

xpl0sive said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can assist. I'm struggling to get a perfectly square image on my projector. The attached image is as close as I've got it. When I zoom in, the left and right borders start to disappear from the screen. They also aren't perfectly straight as you can see from the image. both lines slope slightly in opposite directions.
> 
> Second problem I have is that the bottom border is slightly bowed, and slopes towards the left very slightly.
> 
> It's hard to capture in a photo, but it's more noticeable in person. Is this worth even correcting, or should I just leave it?


Are your screen straight? It feels like the problem sits there. My aren't and you can see the same thing there in one of the corners.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

westbergjoakim said:


> Are your screen straight? It feels like the problem sits there. My aren't and you can see the same thing there in one of the corners.
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


Yeah, it's straight. I checked it with a spirit level.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Needed some art work ;-)





Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

We all can't wait for the last missing CMS of your miracle setting !!!! 





Dave Harper said:


> Ding, ding, ding.....we have a winner!!! I am in Hawaii! 🤣 but ............
> 
> .......I get super amazing rates with UPS from my job so I can setup the label and pass the savings on to you and then you just pay me the shipping costs.


----------



## gene4ht

xpl0sive said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can assist. I'm struggling to get a perfectly square image on my projector. The attached image is as close as I've got it. When I zoom in, the left and right borders start to disappear from the screen. They also aren't perfectly straight as you can see from the image. both lines slope slightly in opposite directions.
> 
> Second problem I have is that the bottom border is slightly bowed, and slopes towards the left very slightly.
> 
> It's hard to capture in a photo, but it's more noticeable in person. Is this worth even correcting, or should I just leave it?



Your projector and screen are not in alignment. The following should assist with attaining correct alignment. 

https://www.google.com/search?clien.....1..gws-wiz.....6..0j35i39j0i131.1ZDABWeKdE4


----------



## welldun

Dave Harper said:


> Ding, ding, ding.....we have a winner!!! I am in Hawaii! 🤣 but ............
> 
> .......I get super amazing rates with UPS from my job so I can setup the label and pass the savings on to you and then you just pay me the shipping costs.


Dave, 
Since not everyone is using the same type of screen and room environment, please let us know the room/lighting conditions and screen type that you will be using to do this calibration, and if possible which settings would need to change/adjust if using a different screen than yours. Thanks.


----------



## monkaquinas

Dave Harper said:


> Ding, ding, ding.....we have a winner!!! I am in Hawaii! 🤣 but ............
> 
> .......I get super amazing rates with UPS from my job so I can setup the label and pass the savings on to you and then you just pay me the shipping costs.


I'd be curious to see what Harpervision and the UB820 Tone Mapping do or Dave's impressions on Orcus settings with the UB820 TM. If we are going to squeeze out the most from the 5040, let's explore two of the most used settings.


----------



## avtoronto

Bear in mind that Orcus does not have a dark room and uses an ALR screen.


----------



## xpl0sive

gene4ht said:


> Your projector and screen are not in alignment. The following should assist with attaining correct alignment.
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?clien.....1..gws-wiz.....6..0j35i39j0i131.1ZDABWeKdE4


Yeah I figured that, I just wasn't sure which way to move it to correct the errors.


----------



## xpl0sive

ac388 said:


> We all can't wait for the last missing CMS of your miracle setting !!!!


What's CMS? I have tried all the main settings and have them all stored, but I found Harpervision's to be the best looking. I have a pitch black room with a 1.1 gain screen. The colours look really nice with plenty of brightness.


----------



## edgecrush

I have a question....The majority of people on this forum seem to think the Harpervision settings are one of the best, for HDR content. I have the entire PDF sheet of the various calibration settings that has been available on here for quite some time now. Under Harpervision, there are a number of settings that are left blank. For instance, Brightness, Contrast, Color Saturation, and Tint all have values but Sharpness, Color Temp., Offsets, etc. are left blank, with no values. Does that simply mean to use the values that Digital Cinema has set at default before any calibration is done or am I missing values on my PDF?


Thanks for any/all help in advance!


----------



## qposner

*What am I seeing here on my Epson 5040ub?*

Im not one that knows much about banding. blooming, etc. I know this isnt blooming, but not sure what to call it or how to fix it. In dark scenes, the darker images such a sky becomes blocky if that makes sense. I took this close up photo with my iPhone last night to show you. This was playing Better Call Saul that had been recorded on YouTube TV. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## BiggNewt

I've got a 5040UB. I'm going from a bat cave in my previous home to a more open area with light gray walls and white ceiling. I have complete control over light but might get some reflections off walls and ceiling. I had a silver ticket white previously, will the light colored walls and ceiling affect the screen so much as to needing a grey screen instead? Any input or pics would be appreciated. Thanks guys. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

welldun said:


> Dave,
> 
> Since not everyone is using the same type of screen and room environment, please let us know the room/lighting conditions and screen type that you will be using to do this calibration, and if possible which settings would need to change/adjust if using a different screen than yours. Thanks.



OK I’ll see what I can do. 



xpl0sive said:


> What's CMS? I have tried all the main settings and have them all stored, but I found Harpervision's to be the best looking. I have a pitch black room with a 1.1 gain screen. The colours look really nice with plenty of brightness.



CMS means “Color Management System”. It’s where you can change the individual color parameters. Think of it as the color/saturation, tint and brightness control for each individual primary (RGB) and secondary (CMY) color.


----------



## WynsWrld98

I just had this cable go out on me after 2 years (don't want to buy another that is too fast for it to go out), anyone have any recommendation of a 18 GB HDMI cable 35'?: Monoprice Cabernet Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI Cable - 4K @ 60Hz, 18Gbps, 26AWG, YUV 4:2:0, CL2, 35ft, Black


----------



## gunlife

BiggNewt said:


> I've got a 5040UB. I'm going from a bat cave in my previous home to a more open area with light gray walls and white ceiling. I have complete control over light but might get some reflections off walls and ceiling. I had a silver ticket white previously, will the light colored walls and ceiling affect the screen so much as to needing a grey screen instead? Any input or pics would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Similar setup here. I went from white screen to a elite cinegrade 3d. Its a low grade alr screen. 

It helped tremendously. Biggest gain was from the ceiling reflections. Really minmized it. I have on light colored wall close to the screen. It definitely doesnt fight light from the sides as well as from above and below. 

There are several alrs that are now available for decent prices. I definitely reccomend one to keep the light reflection down.


----------



## BiggNewt

gunlife said:


> Similar setup here. I went from white screen to a elite cinegrade 3d. Its a low grade alr screen.
> 
> It helped tremendously. Biggest gain was from the ceiling reflections. Really minmized it. I have on light colored wall close to the screen. It definitely doesnt fight light from the sides as well as from above and below.
> 
> There are several alrs that are now available for decent prices. I definitely reccomend one to keep the light reflection down.


Going from white to cinegrey, did the whites take a big hit or could that be compensated with a little calibration to raise the gamma? 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## little_donkey

Is the Panasonic ub820 worth it for hdr? I'm using the ub700 with harper vision. Will the hdr optimizer improve hdr on the Epson projector? 

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

ANDYK48 said:


> From experience the 5040 and 6040 are the same machines, so the firmware should apply to both without problems. Can someone with a 6040 confirm this ?


Yes confirmed. 

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## DavidinGA

After nearly 16,000 posts is there a consensus on the "best" settings for pq for HDR now?

I have a Epson 4000 that I am trying to get setup for HDR (I know the 5040 and 4000 are different, but the similarities are enough that I can tweak things a bit to use the larger 5040 database of info for setting up the 4000) and am still in the beginning stages of learning everything. If setting up the pj alone wasn't challenging up, I'm running it from a htpc that is using madVR (which I still don't know much about lol) with primarily mkv hevc HDR source files.

Are most people watching a HDR source in HDR mode, or are they sending the HDR source and then changing the Epson mode to SDR (harpervision....?) for better/higher lumens?

I found and downloaded the pdf file that lists the different calibrations by different users; is this still the best go-to setup recommendations?

Since I am using madVR would the setting options within it trump some of these other calibrations settings for better pq? I'm running a gtx 1060 6gb card so I can't max out the madVR settings, but I can get most of it done.


Thanks!


----------



## qposner

qposner said:


> Im not one that knows much about banding. blooming, etc. I know this isnt blooming, but not sure what to call it or how to fix it. In dark scenes, the darker images such a sky becomes blocky if that makes sense. I took this close up photo with my iPhone last night to show you. This was playing Better Call Saul that had been recorded on YouTube TV. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!


Anyone?


----------



## evilmonstertruk

qposner said:


> Anyone?


What was the source ? That looks like very low bitrate content. That's what I see playing 720/1080i content on my OLED

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk


----------



## qposner

evilmonstertruk said:


> What was the source ? That looks like very low bitrate content. That's what I see playing 720/1080i content on my OLED
> 
> Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk


YouTube TV via Roku.


----------



## evilmonstertruk

qposner said:


> YouTube TV via Roku.


Is it like that on all content? 

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk


----------



## qposner

evilmonstertruk said:


> Is it like that on all content?
> 
> Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk


Ill have to check 4k sources tonight.


----------



## evilmonstertruk

qposner said:


> Ill have to check 4k sources tonight.


If it turns out to be all content then maybe a bad cable. Something set to the wrong resolution. Or just a bad unit.

My TV and projector are like that with less than perfect sources. It's frustrating. Everything should be in 4k or be able to upconvert perfectly 

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

Dave Harper said:


> CMS means “Color Management System”. It’s where you can change the individual color parameters. Think of it as the color/saturation, tint and brightness control for each individual primary (RGB) and secondary (CMY) color.


Thanks for clarifying. Is there a big difference in your settings with these additions to the CMS?


----------



## xpl0sive

Anyone here using a logitech harmony elite with this projector? I've set mine up but I'm having some difficulty getting it to work correctly with this projector. I've set up an activity where my projector turns on, AVR turns on, blu ray player turns on and then Harpervision settings are selected. Everything seems to work correctly until it gets to the part where it selects the Harpervision settings stored in memory and then it falls over. I've managed to get it to the point where it opens up the memory menu, but stops there. Does anyone else have the same problem? I thought it might be an IR issue, so I put one of the mini blasters on top of my cabinet on the back edge, but still having the same issue. Really frustrating.


----------



## --Sclaws

I do and it works. I suggest you set extra long delays between steps first to verify your programming is correct, then reduce delays from there.


----------



## xpl0sive

--Sclaws said:


> I do and it works. I suggest you set extra long delays between steps first to verify your programming is correct, then reduce delays from there.


Would you mind sharing your sequence? I just want to see where I'm going wrong.


----------



## --Sclaws

xpl0sive said:


> Would you mind sharing your sequence? I just want to see where I'm going wrong.


In my case I do not require delays, but that may not be true in your environment. its a step I use when troubleshooting problematic sequences. My sequence is attached.


----------



## T-MAN_

Works for me too... where exactly is the menu on the projector ending up? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## alphaomegacode

Quick question...

Is $2,200 a good price for a used 6040UB with an extra lens?

Had been considering a UHD60/65 if the price is reduced on Black Friday, but ran across a friend that has this for sale.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance!!


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks for clarifying. Is there a big difference in your settings with these additions to the CMS?



I don’t remember exactly how much better it got but I do recall the colors looking more true and real and it added a little more punch and depth and saturation iirc. Sorry it’s been awhile since I’ve had one here. 

If Orcus sends me his I’ll certainly update everyone here.


----------



## hadiclownsalty

I’ve been looking at buying a 5040ub. Doing a ton of research and ready here on avs as well. Can anyone tell me if I should look into the new 4050 pro instead? I like that it comes with extras and it’s less $$$. However I don’t like that I don’t see the “UB” at the end of it. The ultra black will be important to me as I have a 9000 Samsung tv and it does fantastic blacks so that’s what I would like to see. Also is the the problem with the power supplies been addressed? Is there still issues with the ubdk8500 player? Is the quality on the 4050 the same as the 5040ub? Just looking for more info from actual owners. I don’t have a home theater store near me so a demo of any projector isn’t happening. 

Thanks.


----------



## xpl0sive

--Sclaws said:


> In my case I do not require delays, but that may not be true in your environment. its a step I use when troubleshooting problematic sequences. My sequence is attached.





T-MAN_ said:


> Works for me too... where exactly is the menu on the projector ending up?


Thank you both. I removed the delays from the sequence and got it to work. It actually seems to be an IR issue. I ran the sequence with my phone, with the remote sitting in the dock on my cabinet just under the screen. Worked perfectly. I took the remote out of the room and re-ran it, which didn't work, but I had the lights off. My ceiling and walls are painted matte black, so the room is very dark...not sure if this is causing an issue. 

I do have one of the mini IR blasters on the cabinet in the back left corner next to the remote dock, so that shouldn't be an issue. I did notice it is a bit flakey though. Do you guys have one of the mini blasters set up somewhere for the projector?



Dave Harper said:


> I don’t remember exactly how much better it got but I do recall the colors looking more true and real and it added a little more punch and depth and saturation iirc. Sorry it’s been awhile since I’ve had one here.
> 
> If Orcus sends me his I’ll certainly update everyone here.


Awesome, hopefully we can get this info.


----------



## --Sclaws

xpl0sive said:


> Thank you both. I removed the delays from the sequence and got it to work. It actually seems to be an IR issue. I ran the sequence with my phone, with the remote sitting in the dock on my cabinet just under the screen. Worked perfectly. I took the remote out of the room and re-ran it, which didn't work, but I had the lights off. My ceiling and walls are painted matte black, so the room is very dark...not sure if this is causing an issue.
> 
> I do have one of the mini IR blasters on the cabinet in the back left corner next to the remote dock, so that shouldn't be an issue. I did notice it is a bit flakey though. Do you guys have one of the mini blasters set up somewhere for the projector?


Not really. The hub and one blaster have direct line-of-sight about 17' from the projector (the blaster is behind a glass door).


----------



## xpl0sive

--Sclaws said:


> Not really. The hub and one blaster have direct line-of-sight about 17' from the projector (the blaster is behind a glass door).


Yeah mine's in an enclosed cabinet. It's probably why I'm having trouble.


----------



## Lithium

Dave Harper said:


> I don’t remember exactly how much better it got but I do recall the colors looking more true and real and it added a little more punch and depth and saturation iirc. Sorry it’s been awhile since I’ve had one here.
> 
> If Orcus sends me his I’ll certainly update everyone here.


Not to beat a dead horse but the "HarperVision with Oledurt Suggestions" on the old document making it's rounds here has CMS settings that probably add close to what Dave is talking about.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352

PS: if you do get the projector looking forward to a potential SDR2020 calibration


----------



## bluer101

Quick question. 

Is there a way to have the hdmi inputs remember there own picture settings?


----------



## rajen83

Couple of questions..

What media source do 5040ub owners use to watch Netflix/Amazon Prime 4K content on 5040ub?

Can someone please quote what was the lowest price that 5040ub was on sale. Just trying to find the best deal.


----------



## drhankz

rajen83 said:


> Can someone please quote what was the lowest price that 5040ub was on sale. Just trying to find the best deal.



Only Manufacture List prices allowed on this forum


----------



## rajen83

drhankz said:


> Only Manufacture List prices allowed on this forum


Got it will look for that info elsewhere. Sorry for the annoyance.


----------



## socalsharky

*HDMI 1 Not Working - HDMI 2 seems fine*

I am having problems with the HDMI 1 port on my 5040. I hadn't used it in about 2 weeks. When I turned it on today, I got the message "no signal" in the lower left corner. I checked all my connections, input source, etc. I feed the 5040 through my Yamaha 3060 receiver. None of the sources would display. I moved the HDMI cable to input 2 on the Epson, and it started working. I connected my DVD player directly to the Epson with a 6-ft certified cable and same results: nothing on HDMI1, fine on HDMI2. I then tried to reset the PJ by unplugging and powering up. This time, it got stuck on the EPSON logo and would go no further. I updated the firmware and same results. When I pulled the HDMI plug out, the EPSON logo disappeared and I could again view content only on HDMI2.



When the cable is plugged into the HDMI 1 port I can't view content, or even the Epson PJ menu. Everything seems fine on HDMI2. Epson support offered to send out a refurb unit for free, but I paid for a professional calibration on this one, and not sure I want to do that yet.


Any ideas on what is going on? Should I just keep using it on HDMI2? Are there any PQ problems or disadvantages with using HDMI2?


----------



## WynsWrld98

rajen83 said:


> Couple of questions..
> 
> What media source do 5040ub owners use to watch Netflix/Amazon Prime 4K content on 5040ub?


FireTV 4K gives Atmos on Amazon Prime if you're interested in that but no Atmos with Netflix (yet), gives 4K HDR with both. The Apple TV 4K is another popular option but more costly, I can't keep track what it currently offers and doesn't offer re: Atmos.


----------



## djmattyb

WynsWrld98 said:


> FireTV 4K gives Atmos on Amazon Prime if you're interested in that but no Atmos with Netflix (yet), gives 4K HDR with both. The Apple TV 4K is another popular option but more costly, I can't keep track what it currently offers and doesn't offer re: Atmos.


AppleTV 4K supports Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos. Netflix does support Atmos on Apple TV.


----------



## WynsWrld98

djmattyb said:


> AppleTV 4K supports Dolby Vision and Dolby Atmos. Netflix does support Atmos on Apple TV.


 Off topic but I don't think such a streaming device exists that will do both 4K HDR Atmos Netflix streaming and 4K HDR Atmos Amazon Prime streaming. Then finding one that will do the 24 Hz that the Epson needs is another story. Very complicated trying to get all of this to work with the 5040 not having an 18 GB HDMI chipset.


----------



## inspector

alphaomegacode said:


> Quick question...
> 
> Is $2,200 a good price for a used 6040UB with an extra lens?
> 
> Had been considering a UHD60/65 if the price is reduced on Black Friday, but ran across a friend that has this for sale.
> 
> Thoughts? Thanks in advance!!


 
That's a great price. Not sure what you mean by "lens". If you mean an extra bulb, that's good too. It is Epson's heaviest PJ yet, so hopefully it comes with the mount that came with the PJ. 


Just be sure to view it first, check out the 3D for ghosting/crosstalk and ask if it shuts down all the time, oh, and if it's a refurb.


Good luck!


----------



## inspector

rajen83 said:


> Got it will look for that info elsewhere. Sorry for the annoyance.



You're not an annoyance, just asking a question...so, just keep asking.


----------



## Stereojeff

rajen83 said:


> Couple of questions..
> 
> What media source do 5040ub owners use to watch Netflix/Amazon Prime 4K content on 5040ub?
> 
> Can someone please quote what was the lowest price that 5040ub was on sale. Just trying to find the best deal.



I use Roku Ultra.


Jeff


----------



## ayrton

Stereojeff said:


> I use Roku Ultra.
> 
> 
> Jeff


Same here. 

I also run the Ultra through my HDMI in on my Oppo 203 to convert 60Fps to 30Fps. This also uses the outputs from the Oppo and all I i needed was one HDMI connection from the Roku to the Oppo..


----------



## xpl0sive

Lithium said:


> Not to beat a dead horse but the "HarperVision with Oledurt Suggestions" on the old document making it's rounds here has CMS settings that probably add close to what Dave is talking about.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352
> 
> PS: if you do get the projector looking forward to a potential SDR2020 calibration


I didn't even know this existed, thanks!


----------



## BattleAxeVR

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the optical e-shift part used in these Epson projectors?

I searched for the parts list online but couldn't find any service manuals posted anywhere. Neither for the JVC e-shift ones.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## socalsharky

socalsharky said:


> I am having problems with the HDMI 1 port on my 5040. I hadn't used it in about 2 weeks. When I turned it on today, I got the message "no signal" in the lower left corner. I checked all my connections, input source, etc. I feed the 5040 through my Yamaha 3060 receiver. None of the sources would display. I moved the HDMI cable to input 2 on the Epson, and it started working. I connected my DVD player directly to the Epson with a 6-ft certified cable and same results: nothing on HDMI1, fine on HDMI2. I then tried to reset the PJ by unplugging and powering up. This time, it got stuck on the EPSON logo and would go no further. I updated the firmware and same results. When I pulled the HDMI plug out, the EPSON logo disappeared and I could again view content only on HDMI2.
> 
> 
> 
> When the cable is plugged into the HDMI 1 port I can't view content, or even the Epson PJ menu. Everything seems fine on HDMI2. Epson support offered to send out a refurb unit for free, but I paid for a professional calibration on this one, and not sure I want to do that yet.
> 
> 
> Any ideas on what is going on? Should I just keep using it on HDMI2? Are there any PQ problems or disadvantages with using HDMI2?


Anybody have any thoughts on this?


----------



## seplant

socalsharky said:


> I am having problems with the HDMI 1 port on my 5040. I hadn't used it in about 2 weeks. When I turned it on today, I got the message "no signal" in the lower left corner. I checked all my connections, input source, etc. I feed the 5040 through my Yamaha 3060 receiver. None of the sources would display. I moved the HDMI cable to input 2 on the Epson, and it started working. I connected my DVD player directly to the Epson with a 6-ft certified cable and same results: nothing on HDMI1, fine on HDMI2. I then tried to reset the PJ by unplugging and powering up. This time, it got stuck on the EPSON logo and would go no further. I updated the firmware and same results. When I pulled the HDMI plug out, the EPSON logo disappeared and I could again view content only on HDMI2.
> 
> 
> 
> When the cable is plugged into the HDMI 1 port I can't view content, or even the Epson PJ menu. Everything seems fine on HDMI2. Epson support offered to send out a refurb unit for free, but I paid for a professional calibration on this one, and not sure I want to do that yet.
> 
> 
> Any ideas on what is going on? Should I just keep using it on HDMI2? Are there any PQ problems or disadvantages with using HDMI2?


This happened to my 6040. HDMI1 just stopped working. You can continue using HDMI2, but only HDMI1 is HDCP 2.2 compliant, meaning you probably won't be able to watch any 4K HDR content using HDMI2. I called Epson, and they replaced my projector.


----------



## misterg51

socalsharky said:


> Anybody have any thoughts on this?


I'm thinking you may have them reversed. Check the schematic in the manual. Page 18. HDMI 2 will do what you are experiencing, not HDMI 1. HDMI 1 is the closest to the side of the unit. Hope yours isn't reversed.....


----------



## socalsharky

misterg51 said:


> I'm thinking you may have them reversed. Check the schematic in the manual. Page 18. HDMI 2 will do what you are experiencing, not HDMI 1. HDMI 1 is the closest to the side of the unit. Hope yours isn't reversed.....



Thanks for the post, but they are not reversed. The PJ has always been on HDMI 1, and just stopped working. When I switched the cable to HDMI 2, and changed the input on the PJ settings to HDMI 2, it worked. Moved everything back to HDMI 1, and nothing.


----------



## misterg51

socalsharky said:


> Thanks for the post, but they are not reversed. The PJ has always been on HDMI 1, and just stopped working. When I switched the cable to HDMI 2, and changed the input on the PJ settings to HDMI 2, it worked. Moved everything back to HDMI 1, and nothing.



Sorry to hear that. Hope Epson works with you, if under warranty, they should.


----------



## umjs78

Is “hapersvision” setting still the best with new firmware (I found one for bright cinema back in apr 2017) I have mine upgraded to 1.12 (followed link in this thread thought its 1.11 but shown 1.12 after upgraded) from 1.10, hdr seems still too dark for me.


----------



## ClerkDante

Looking for a new screen for the 5040. I’ve owned the 5040 for a few months now and am pretty happy with it. I do think though that my 15 year old, DaLite B screen could be holding me back from the full experience. Projector People keeps suggesting $3-6k screens to me, but I can’t fathom paying more for the screen than I did for the projector. 

What do folks recommend. Looking for 16:9, 110”, for light controlled space.


----------



## jpolachak

ClerkDante said:


> Looking for a new screen for the 5040. I’ve owned the 5040 for a few months now and am pretty happy with it. I do think though that my 15 year old, DaLite B screen could be holding me back from the full experience. Projector People keeps suggesting $3-6k screens to me, but I can’t fathom paying more for the screen than I did for the projector.
> 
> What do folks recommend. Looking for 16:9, 110”, for light controlled space.





I am also interested in this. I am in the market for a new projector possibly the 5040 or 5050 when its released. I spoke to Mike Garrett at AVS and he said the screen innovations 3 fixed in 1.3 gain would be a good choice for not a ton of money. I am looking to get a reasonable screen with the most gain for my bat cave.


----------



## inspector

I've had my 110" .09 Da-Lite HD Progressive Screen going on 2 years and have not had any problems as I did with their .09 JKP 
Affinity screen.


----------



## gene4ht

ClerkDante said:


> *Looking for a new screen* for the 5040. I’ve owned the 5040 for a few months now and am pretty happy with it. I do think though that my 15 year old, DaLite B screen could be holding me back from the full experience. Projector People keeps suggesting $3-6k screens to me, but I can’t fathom paying more for the screen than I did for the projector.
> 
> *What do folks recommend.* Looking for 16:9, 110”, for light controlled space.





jpolachak said:


> *I am also interested in this*. I am in the market for a new projector possibly the 5040 or 5050 when its released. I spoke to Mike Garrett at AVS and he said the screen innovations 3 fixed in 1.3 gain would be a good choice for not a ton of money. *I am looking to get a reasonable screen with the most gain* for my bat cave.


Eons ago, my PJ journey began by projecting on a white wall for the first year, then a DIY Plastex screen for a few years, and finally an Elite screen which I still use today after 4 different PJ's. I'm not a purist or aficionado of screens who requires ultimate brightness, contrast, or even color purity. I'm completely satisfied with screens that will get you 90% of the way there. In this vein, Elite, Silver Ticket, and Screen Innovations all have models and sizes addressing various lighting conditions/requirements ranging from $200 to $1000 which should satisfy the majority of hobbyist. As conventional wisdom would dictate, the higher the price, the better the screen material, the better the frame, and the better the overall construction. At some point, there will always be diminishing returns. For those who need to "see" before buying, most screen manufacturers will gladly send samples upon requests.

Lastly, a visit to the screen threads will demonstrate varied opinions...each defending their decision of course. There's alot of both subjectivity and objectivity. However, it seems everyone is happy with their choice...and that's what matters! And here's the kicker...what matters to you...won't matter to your family and friends...they will thoroughly enjoy the movie, immersive image, and never mention how great or poor the screen is.


----------



## Lithium

ClerkDante said:


> Looking for a new screen for the 5040. I’ve owned the 5040 for a few months now and am pretty happy with it. I do think though that my 15 year old, DaLite B screen could be holding me back from the full experience. Projector People keeps suggesting $3-6k screens to me, but I can’t fathom paying more for the screen than I did for the projector.
> 
> What do folks recommend. Looking for 16:9, 110”, for light controlled space.





jpolachak said:


> I am also interested in this. I am in the market for a new projector possibly the 5040 or 5050 when its released. I spoke to Mike Garrett at AVS and he said the screen innovations 3 fixed in 1.3 gain would be a good choice for not a ton of money. I am looking to get a reasonable screen with the most gain for my bat cave.


I like Seymour AV and use one as my acoustically transparent screen in a dedicated blacked out room. I tested both the XD and UF and went with the XD paired with the Epson. They will send you free samples if you request them.


----------



## mraub

I'm happily using an acoustically transparent Silver Ticket screen with a Epson 5040. A 110" 16:9 screen with standard white material will only set you back $230, so you don't have a lot to lose:

https://www.silverticketproducts.com/collections/fixed-projection-screens/products/str-169110






ClerkDante said:


> Looking for a new screen for the 5040. I’ve owned the 5040 for a few months now and am pretty happy with it. I do think though that my 15 year old, DaLite B screen could be holding me back from the full experience. Projector People keeps suggesting $3-6k screens to me, but I can’t fathom paying more for the screen than I did for the projector.
> 
> What do folks recommend. Looking for 16:9, 110”, for light controlled space.


----------



## evilmonstertruk

ClerkDante said:


> Looking for a new screen for the 5040. I’ve owned the 5040 for a few months now and am pretty happy with it. I do think though that my 15 year old, DaLite B screen could be holding me back from the full experience. Projector People keeps suggesting $3-6k screens to me, but I can’t fathom paying more for the screen than I did for the projector.
> 
> What do folks recommend. Looking for 16:9, 110”, for light controlled space.


I bought a Elunevision Reference 4k and couldn't be happier. No real texture to speak of. Bright from middle to edge. Feels like a much higher quality screen for the money. Had it for a year now and I'm glad I bought it. The no texture makes a big difference

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

ClerkDante said:


> Looking for a new screen for the 5040. I’ve owned the 5040 for a few months now and am pretty happy with it. I do think though that my 15 year old, DaLite B screen could be holding me back from the full experience. Projector People keeps suggesting $3-6k screens to me, but I can’t fathom paying more for the screen than I did for the projector.
> 
> *What do folks recommend.* Looking for 16:9, 110”, for light controlled space.



As I eluded to in my previous post...for every user response, there will likely be a different screen recommendation. Again, everyone likes the screen they chose. This is actually good news as it's an indication that most screens are more than adequate and reasonably priced. As a suggestion, determine the screen features that are important to you and those required by your environment. Look for these features in the manufacturers mentioned by the folks above and let your budget make the decision for you. We cannot tell you what you like/need/want and what is best for your room's requirements. Good luck with your decision!


----------



## xpl0sive

so I've booked my projector in for a professional calibration on the 18th of December. He's going to do a full SDR and HDR calibration for me. What I might do is also have the Harpervision settings in one preset and get him to do a CMS calibration on that. 

Just a quick question for everyone though. I want to ensure my projector is on the latest firmware before he calibrates it. Is USB the only method of doing so? Can it be done over the network? My projector is installed fairly close to the back wall, and it was a pain in the rear getting it aligned with the screen. Plugging in a USB now would be incredibly frustrating...


----------



## little_donkey

How is the new Panasonic uhd player with their hdr optimizer? Do you still need harpervision or oledurt setting to have the best hdr? 

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk


----------



## monkaquinas

little_donkey said:


> How is the new Panasonic uhd player with their hdr optimizer? Do you still need harpervision or oledurt setting to have the best hdr?
> 
> Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk


I never gave HarperVision a go, since the CMS was lost. Here is a post of my settings with the 820.


monkaquinas said:


> I upgraded to the 5040UB in April and have been upgrading the components through my systems to get to 4K and finally added the UB820 a couple of weeks ago. I’ve enjoyed Rob’s and Orcus video settings and finally decided to jump into a calibration of my own (no light meter or cal SW).
> I used the DVE, Spears, and WOW discs to dial in the SDR/BT2020 video based on a recommendation from Kris and his testing of the 820 and its tone mapping. My first pass was with the DVE and then the Spears disc, and finally the WOW disc that has great video tests from actual movies.
> I discovered a big red push with Surrogates and Pirates and I used the 820 to dial it back under a second profile. It seemed better, still bothers me that I had to set 2 SDR settings in the 820 after dialing in the 5040.
> I then pulled up the Masciola HDR patterns and ran thru them to ensure that there wasn’t anything too off. Below are my settings while watching John Wick UHD. I need to figure out Gamma and how it affects the image and do another pass. Any advice or suggestions are appreciated.


----------



## Darrell Money

I just installed my 5040ub and using an Elite Screens Lunette curved screen. The picture is not quite rectangular, the top is slightly concave and bottom convex (overall like a very shallow u). I'm guessing epson is doing some image processing assuming it's projected on a flat surface. Anyone else have this issue? Any idea how to correct it? Epson support wasn't able to help.


----------



## xpl0sive

Has anyone watched The Dark Knight in 4K on this projector? I watched it last night and I noticed some scenes looked incredibly grainy and poor quality. A good example was the seen where Batman is checking out his new suit that Lucious Fox made for him. It looked really grainy and the detail in the image seemed poor. I know this film has grain because it was shot on traditional film, but this seemed really excessive. The 65mm scenes look amazing though.


----------



## Darrell Money

I was watching Ghostbusters (original, the one worth watching) which was supposedly 4k streaming on Netflix, and it looked grainy. I was thinking it was due to age of film, but Raiders of the Lost Ark looked great in 1080p.


----------



## Tristan944

Any recommendations on a projector calibration company in Southern California?


----------



## Azekecse

Darrell Money said:


> I just installed my 5040ub and using an Elite Screens Lunette curved screen. The picture is not quite rectangular, the top is slightly concave and bottom convex (overall like a very shallow u). I'm guessing epson is doing some image processing assuming it's projected on a flat surface. Anyone else have this issue? Any idea how to correct it? Epson support wasn't able to help.


I have the Elite Lunette screen and there were a few things I had to adjust.

1). Ensure screen is leveled
2). Ensure the projector is leveled
3). Ensure you wall is leveled, may need to shim the screen
4). I needed to use the bottom wall brackets, even though it was difficult to install
5). Ensure your projector is centered relative to the screen

Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## roland6465

Darrell Money said:


> I was watching Ghostbusters (original, the one worth watching) which was supposedly 4k streaming on Netflix, and it looked grainy. I was thinking it was due to age of film, but Raiders of the Lost Ark looked great in 1080p.



Dude, it was shot on film in 1983. There's going to be grain. I have grain on my BRDs of the Indy films as well. It's how the movies were shot. 4K does not mean that the film has been digitally altered to remove original elements.


----------



## gakbw

Hello All,
Recently Sony introduced VPL295ES true native 4K projector with 3 years warrenty! Any one suggest it’s better than Epson 6040 UB. And If we play native 4K disc, Epson produces native 4K? Thanks in Advance


----------



## seplant

gakbw said:


> Hello All,
> Recently Sony introduced VPL295ES true native 4K projector with 3 years warrenty! Any one suggest it’s better than Epson 6040 UB. And If we play native 4K disc, Epson produces native 4K? Thanks in Advance


Resolution isn't everything. When properly calibrated, the Epson 5040/6040 can display incredible images. I recently purchased a new Sony OLED, and while it certainly looks great, my Epson projector holds up pretty well compared to it, even with 4K HDR content. It is still amazing to me just how good the Epson performs with 4K material and upscaling of 1080p content. I really don't think you can even come close to beating it at its price point.


----------



## gakbw

Thank you👍


----------



## nielvm

Yesterday I gave calibrating hdr another shot, using the harpervision method of forcing the projector in sdr mode.

So far this is the best result I have achieved for hdr. All the other methods always resulted in something unnatural looking. Using hdr 1 or hdr 2 also crushes black, unless you crank brightness up quite a bit, which has a negative effect on the rest of the rest of the image. Lamp in medium mode is enough to lighten a 120" 21:9 screen. 

The end result differs quite a bit from the settings posted here, but the idea is the same. I will try a couple more movies to assess these new settings. If anyone is interested, I will post my settings.


----------



## ANDYK48

nielvm said:


> Yesterday I gave calibrating hdr another shot, using the harpervision method of forcing the projector in sdr mode.
> 
> So far this is the best result I have achieved for hdr. All the other methods always resulted in something unnatural looking. Using hdr 1 or hdr 2 also crushes black, unless you crank brightness up quite a bit, which has a negative effect on the rest of the rest of the image. Lamp in medium mode is enough to lighten a 120" 21:9 screen.
> 
> The end result differs quite a bit from the settings posted here, but the idea is the same. I will try a couple more movies to assess these new settings. If anyone is interested, I will post my settings.


Please post your settings.
It is interesting to compare settings on the projector from various sources 
Thanks


----------



## satyab

Anyone used OSRAM replacement lamps for 5040 or any other projectors? Are they any good? Price is half of Epson original lamp. I prefer original but just wanted to check how good OSRAM lamps are.


----------



## gakbw

Please post your settings!


----------



## nielvm

Will take some pics of the settings tonight...


----------



## nielvm

Color mode cinema

Brightness 52
Contrast 100
Satuation 58
Tint 100
Lamp medium

Dynamic range sdr


Gamma 0;-20;-32;-32;-32;-29;-22;+22;+32

Super white Off

R 22 60 52
G 48 63 50
B 47 66 50
C 27 67 50
M 44 50 50
Y 29 87 50

Image enhancement preset 4

Color temp 5
Tint 3

Custom
49 48 50 50 50 22


Think that’s all?


----------



## nielvm

Sorry, lay-out is all gone, hope it’s clear?


----------



## hnupe

xpl0sive said:


> Anyone here using a logitech harmony elite with this projector? I've set mine up but I'm having some difficulty getting it to work correctly with this projector. I've set up an activity where my projector turns on, AVR turns on, blu ray player turns on and then Harpervision settings are selected. Everything seems to work correctly until it gets to the part where it selects the Harpervision settings stored in memory and then it falls over. I've managed to get it to the point where it opens up the memory menu, but stops there. Does anyone else have the same problem? I thought it might be an IR issue, so I put one of the mini blasters on top of my cabinet on the back edge, but still having the same issue. Really frustrating.


I was having the same issue. I decided to ditch the Harmony and make the investment in Control4....I am VERY HAPPy.


----------



## DanGraney

gakbw said:


> Hello All,
> Recently Sony introduced VPL295ES true native 4K projector with 3 years warrenty! Any one suggest it’s better than Epson 6040 UB. And If we play native 4K disc, Epson produces native 4K? Thanks in Advance




I’m actually considering making the switch to the Sony 295. True 4K is appealing, but that 18gbps and ability to 4K HDR in gaming realllly appeals. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## gakbw

Thank you! My brightness settings are grade out mode! How can I enable those settings?


----------



## nielvm

Brightness is in the main screen. I have never seen it grayed out...


----------



## jdtsmith

*Parallelogram Distortion*

Have had my 5040UB for about 6 months and finally got a retractable screen to project onto. In trying to align the projector, I'm left with a *parallelogram* distortion that I can't get rid of. That is, the horizontal lines of the pattern are both perfectly aligned with the horizontal boundaries of the screens viewing area, and the vertical lines of the pattern are parallel (same distance between them everywhere). But the vertical lines are *not* aligned with the vertical boundaries of the screen. 

This isn't the trapezoidal distortion that results from optical misalignment. The image has two pairs of side parallel. It amounts to about a half an inch (2 line widths) over the 54.5" viewable height. That is certainly noticeable. It looks like the attached (grossly exaggerated). 

I was worried it might be my screen, so checked with a large drywall square: the screen seems square, but the image itself is out of square at the corners, by about 1/2°. 

I have a high mounting location, so am at extreme downward lens shift. I shifted it (way) up to zero vertical lens shift, and tried to remeasure the angle high on the wall, and it did seem to be more square at that point. I'm also at max zoom (largest possible image from close projector distance). 

Has anyone seen parallelogram style distortion occur with vertical lens shift and high zoom? Something I should consider talking to Epson about?


----------



## gakbw

Epson provides excellent customer service! Contact them they will help you.


----------



## gakbw

Here is the settings screenshot, you can see after color mode next available option is power consumption, I don’t know how to enable to other options to change.


----------



## roland6465

gakbw said:


> Here is the settings screenshot, you can see after color mode next available option is power consumption, I don’t know how to enable to other options to change.


Are you feeding it a signal?


----------



## gakbw

You mean to say play any device like Blu-ray or some video content?


----------



## Dave Harper

gakbw said:


> You mean to say play any device like Blu-ray or some video content?



Play the source you want to make the settings for, i.e. - send a 4K UHD HDR signal if that’s what you’re trying to setup, or HD etc.


----------



## gakbw

Thank you David! It worked out.


----------



## gakbw

Thanks Neilvm! I tried above settings and output is too much colors! Picture back ground dark colors are glares on eyes. But black levels are awesome! Default bright cinema settings looks great! This is just for my eyes 🙂


----------



## xpl0sive

hnupe said:


> I was having the same issue. I decided to ditch the Harmony and make the investment in Control4....I am VERY HAPPy.


I got it working in the end. Only issue I have is with the lights off it can be a little glitchy when navigating menus (i.e. when I am browsing through menus, sometimes I would hit an arrow and it would move twice, if that makes sense). Control 4 is very expensive and overkill for what I want to do (just control my devices from 1 remote).


----------



## nielvm

gakbw said:


> Thanks Neilvm! I tried above settings and output is too much colors! Picture back ground dark colors are glares on eyes. But black levels are awesome! Default bright cinema settings looks great! This is just for my eyes 🙂


In therms of color these settings should be spot on. They track p3 quite nicely and the saturation pointe are quite good as well...


----------



## Dave Harper

gakbw said:


> Thanks Neilvm! I tried above settings and output is too much colors! Picture back ground dark colors are glares on eyes. But black levels are awesome! Default bright cinema settings looks great! This is just for my eyes 🙂





nielvm said:


> In therms of color these settings should be spot on. They track p3 quite nicely and the saturation pointe are quite good as well...



It sounds to me like gakbw is sending an SDR and/or HDR Rec709 color signal, but nielvm’s settings are for BT2020/DCI-P3 so they look overblown to gakbw.


----------



## nielvm

Correct, settings are for HDR/bt2020 material.


----------



## avtoronto

nielvm said:


> Correct, settings are for HDR/bt2020 material.


You're selecting "Cinema" instead of "Digital Cinema". The latter invokes the filter to yield P3 colour so you are not taking advantage of the full potential of the projector's HDR capability without it. Some find it too dark, but you may want to re-try the settings using "Digital Cinema".


----------



## nielvm

"Cinema" also uses the color filter


----------



## avtoronto

nielvm said:


> "Cinema" also uses the color filter


Yes it does, but for REC 709. For REC 2020 material, the correct filter is invoked with "Digital Cinema". Both settings need light-controlled environments to be effective.


----------



## nielvm

_The interesting point to take note of here is that the Cinema modes introduce the Epson cinema filter into the light path, which increases the colour space to close to DCI._

I think there is only one color filter in the projector, for REC709 no filter is used.
Anyway, as said before, these settings track P3 very nicely.

I don't like digital cinema because it is way too blue to start with...


----------



## rajen83

I put in an order for the 5040ub. It is going to arrive on Wednesday, just in time for the long weekend. Yay! Now, I quickly need to order an HDMI cable for it. Can you please recommend an 10m HDMI cable which supports 4K content. Media source in xbox one s and fire stick 4k.


----------



## monkaquinas

hnupe said:


> I was having the same issue. I decided to ditch the Harmony and make the investment in Control4....I am VERY HAPPy.


I ran into the same problem with my Harmony. I tried changing some timings but also ended up at the Memory menu. I solved this by creating a soft button in my activity to: Load Memory, select OK, move down to the memory setting and select it.

I have 3 go to settings: 1 in the Cable Activity and 2 in the 4K activity. While it isn't a one button press solution, it has worked and saved me the additional 4-8 presses. I even showed my tween daughters and they can use it.


----------



## xpl0sive

Sorry if this has been covered before, but has anyone tried turning off HDR on the Panasonic UB900 when playing 4K movies on this projector, or using the HDR to SDR conversion? I'm curious how this compares to Harpervision.

I'm booked in for a calibration soon, and the calibrator asked me what player I have. I told him the Panasonic, and he said he asked because the Epson doesn't do HDR very well so he usually turns it off when calibrating, if the player allows it.

I actually wasn't aware you could even do that with the Panasonic.


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> Sorry if this has been covered before, but has anyone tried turning off HDR on the Panasonic UB900 when playing 4K movies on this projector, or using the HDR to SDR conversion? I'm curious how this compares to Harpervision.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm booked in for a calibration soon, and the calibrator asked me what player I have. I told him the Panasonic, and he said he asked because the Epson doesn't do HDR very well so he usually turns it off when calibrating, if the player allows it.
> 
> 
> 
> I actually wasn't aware you could even do that with the Panasonic.



Yes it will remove the HDR metadata and play as SDR rather than HDR, but it won’t tone map properly like the newer Panasonic UB820 will. 

Tell him he doesn’t have to worry about HDR not being good on the 5040 if he uses my HarperVision settings. That’s what it’s for! 

Ask him to (or you can) put in my settings and then he can just do the greyscale and CMS since they got lost from my PC. I think a lot of people are wanting this info and it would be a great service for everyone here if you could post those after he’s done.


----------



## xpl0sive

Dave Harper said:


> Yes it will remove the HDR metadata and play as SDR rather than HDR, but it won’t tone map properly like the newer Panasonic UB820 will.
> 
> Tell him he doesn’t have to worry about HDR not being good on the 5040 if he uses my HarperVision settings. That’s what it’s for!
> 
> Ask him to (or you can) put in my settings and then he can just do the greyscale and CMS since they got lost from my PC. I think a lot of people are wanting this info and it would be a great service for everyone here if you could post those after he’s done.


Thanks for clarifying Dave! Yeah that's the plan. He's going to do a REC709 calibration for me and also his own REC2020 calibration, but I'm also going to get him to do do the greyscale and CMS for your settings as well. Happy to provide the final result here when he's done.


----------



## nielvm

Or try out my settings. I did a full greyscale and cmd calibration. If interested I can provide the hcfr calibration report, I did not just invent the numbers 😁


----------



## xpl0sive

nielvm said:


> Or try out my settings. I did a full greyscale and cmd calibration. If interested I can provide the hcfr calibration report, I did not just invent the numbers 😁


Thanks, I'll give yours a shot. Did you use Digital Cinema as well? Because that's the only mode that uses the P3 filter.


----------



## nielvm

I don't know why people think that here, or there must be something different with the US models compared to Europ models? Cinema mode enables the P3 filter as well, as I quoted from a review a couple of posts before.

I can clearly see with my measurements that the color triangle widens a lot when accessing "cinema" mode. I also hear the filter slide in the projector.


----------



## Dave Harper

nielvm said:


> Or try out my settings. I did a full greyscale and cmd calibration. If interested I can provide the hcfr calibration report, *I did not just invent the numbers*



I certainly hope that wasn’t a shot at me? I spent many, many days and hours working on my settings and they were based on hard calibrated numbers and weren’t just “invented”. 

I had CMS and greyscale settings but they were dumped somehow and I’ve been seeking help with getting these again ever since, even offering to have anyone here send me their unit for a free calibration and HarperVision treatment.


----------



## nielvm

Not at all, not at all!
I thank you very much for the idea of forcing the projector in SDR. I tried all other sorts of calibration with custom gamma or using the natural stand, but never had something that looked natural on all HDR movies.

So I started out with forced SDR and contrast on 100. Saturation and tint differ from your settings, because I found it easier to get the colors right in the CMS afterwards.
I can imagine you can get similar results with saturation set higher and tint lower, but the settings in CMS will be different then.
Because your settings of greyscale and CMS got lost of your calibration, IMO these settings are quite useless, unless you have your own meter to calibrate the rest. If you don’t and you leave CMS and greyscale to standard, I don’t think you’ll get great results. Nevertheless, I’m sure your complete calibration was spot on.

I tried a lot of HDR settings that circulate around here, and I often wondered where on earth they found those settings. They don’t measure at all what it should be. Your approach of calibrating HDR with forced SDR is the best I’ve seen so far. I think it’s important one can support their settings with measurements, so my reaction was more intended to the people who think my settings don’t get the P3 color space. As said before, unless the U.S. models are different, the “cinema” setting also uses the P3 filter and IMO the “cinema” mode is a better starting point than “digital cinema”.

So without wanting to target someone, there are a lot of settings that circulate around here that aren’t based on measurements, but just look spectacular for the person using it. When I started with your approach, I also noticed that white clips at around 1200nits with the forced SDR, like you said. For me, this was a first point to think “hey, this guy knows what he’s doing” 😁
I don’t want to pretend I have done the perfect calibration (always room for improvement or a touch of personal taste), but when we discuss settings, the discussion must be based on measurements. And when we discuss color, the measurements must include the saturation points 😉

There, my 2 cents 😊


----------



## Darrell Money

rajen83 said:


> I put in an order for the 5040ub. It is going to arrive on Wednesday, just in time for the long weekend. Yay! Now, I quickly need to order an HDMI cable for it. Can you please recommend an 10m HDMI cable which supports 4K content. Media source in xbox one s and fire stick 4k.


I just set up my system and pretty happy with the Monoprice cable I bought. I buried mine behind the wall, so I bought their top of line 40' cable (hopefully future-proof a couple years). It didn't break the bank, I was looking for the cheapest cable from a reputable supplier that hit all the current marks: 18 Gbps, HDCP 2.2 compliant, 4:4:4 color, etc.
Good luck!


----------



## Darrell Money

Sorry for the noob question. What is harpervision?


----------



## rajen83

Darrell Money said:


> I just set up my system and pretty happy with the Monoprice cable I bought. I buried mine behind the wall, so I bought their top of line 40' cable (hopefully future-proof a couple years). It didn't break the bank, I was looking for the cheapest cable from a reputable supplier that hit all the current marks: 18 Gbps, HDCP 2.2 compliant, 4:4:4 color, etc.
> Good luck!


Can you please pass on the link to it.


----------



## avtoronto

Darrell Money said:


> Sorry for the noob question. What is harpervision?



I suggest you search the term in this forum. Developed by Dave Harper, it's the name of the settings he developed using a unique approach he used to produce a very good HDR image.


----------



## Sundodger

schamber said:


> Here are the screenshots of my settings. I’ll get them translated to text at some point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally got around to testing testing these settings and they worked great for my setup. THANKS!!
> 
> Have you made any updates or modifications? I was wary of running in High lamp mode for the sound (PJ is almost above my head), but totally worth it and not very distracting.


----------



## xpl0sive

nielvm said:


> I don't know why people think that here, or there must be something different with the US models compared to Europ models? Cinema mode enables the P3 filter as well, as I quoted from a review a couple of posts before.
> 
> I can clearly see with my measurements that the color triangle widens a lot when accessing "cinema" mode. I also hear the filter slide in the projector.


Sorry, you're right. The filter is also engaged in Cinema mode. I also have the European model like you. I was always under the assumption that only Digital Cinema uses the filter.

I tried out your settings btw...nice work. Did you do the calibration yourself or did you get it done professionally?


----------



## nielvm

Thanks, did the calibration myself. Of course all the praise for Dave Harper to think of this approach.

I must say Dave's setting of 48 of brightness is better. I just lowered my "52" to "48" to have a bit better blacks. In the custom gamma I upped the first setting from -21 to -17 as a countermeasure to have sufficient detail in black.


----------



## Gazzer55

Quick question - I have read people mentioning that it would be better if the projector had 4k 60hz HDR with 18gb - Can someone explain what this is and why it would be better. Given the 5040UB doesnt have it does that mean I can't watch 4k content (bluerays, netflix, youtube, etc)? Thanks


----------



## xpl0sive

nielvm said:


> Thanks, did the calibration myself. Of course all the praise for Dave Harper to think of this approach.
> 
> I must say Dave's setting of 48 of brightness is better. I just lowered my "52" to "48" to have a bit better blacks. In the custom gamma I upped the first setting from -21 to -17 as a countermeasure to have sufficient detail in black.


Thanks, I'll make the necessary adjustments. It's always nice to have multiple options for settings. Have you tested these across a range of movies, and are you satisfied with the overall picture?


----------



## xpl0sive

Gazzer55 said:


> Quick question - I have read people mentioning that it would be better if the projector had 4k 60hz HDR with 18gb - Can someone explain what this is and why it would be better. Given the 5040UB doesnt have it does that mean I can't watch 4k content (bluerays, netflix, youtube, etc)? Thanks


It's just for videogames which play at 4K/60p. You need 18Gbps chipset to do this. On the Epson, if you're playing a 4K capable console, you'll need to set it to 1080p to get HDR, or play in 4K with no HDR. To do both, you need a HD Fury Linker which allows you to play at 4K/60 with 8bit colour.


----------



## Juiced46

Gazzer55 said:


> Quick question - I have read people mentioning that it would be better if the projector had 4k 60hz HDR with 18gb - Can someone explain what this is and why it would be better. Given the 5040UB doesnt have it does that mean I can't watch 4k content (bluerays, netflix, youtube, etc)? Thanks





xpl0sive said:


> It's just for videogames which play at 4K/60p. You need 18Gbps chipset to do this. On the Epson, if you're playing a 4K capable console, you'll need to set it to 1080p to get HDR, or play in 4K with no HDR. To do both, you need a HD Fury Linker which allows you to play at 4K/60 with 8bit colour.


It is not just for videogames. It all depends on what streaming device you use. For example, Netflix on Xbox outputs at 4K/60 HDR so Netflix will not work in 4K/HDR unless you have a Linker as well. 

Any 4K UHD content/device that outputs at 4K/24hz HDR will work just fine with the 5040ub. Video game consoles need 4K/60hz for HDR so the 5040 is not compatible unless you use a Linker like mentioned.


----------



## Keith Ferguson

nielvm said:


> Thanks, did the calibration myself. Of course all the praise for Dave Harper to think of this approach.
> 
> I must say Dave's setting of 48 of brightness is better. I just lowered my "52" to "48" to have a bit better blacks. In the custom gamma I upped the first setting from -21 to -17 as a countermeasure to have sufficient detail in black.


Did you mean to change the *second* setting from *-20* to -17 in gamma?

want to make sure.....thanks for the settings.


----------



## rajen83

Juiced46 said:


> Any 4K UHD content/device that outputs at 4K/24hz HDR will work just fine with the 5040ub. Video game consoles need 4K/60hz for HDR so the 5040 is not compatible unless you use a Linker like mentioned.


Can you name few streaming devices which output 4K/24hz. I have an xbox s and clearly it will not work. So looking to buy another 4K streaming device. I see that fire stick 4k is on sale on AMZN


----------



## Dave Harper

Darrell Money said:


> Sorry for the noob question. What is harpervision?





avtoronto said:


> I suggest you search the term in this forum. Developed by Dave Harper, it's the name of the settings he developed using a unique approach he used to produce a very good HDR image.



There’s a link below my signature to the post that explains it and starts the topic off with subsequent posts about it. The CMS and greyscale settings were lost unfortunately but I think a few fine folks here are going to post them after calibration.


----------



## xpl0sive

Dave Harper said:


> There’s a link below my signature to the post that explains it and starts the topic off with subsequent posts about it. The CMS and greyscale settings were lost unfortunately but I think a few fine folks here are going to post them after calibration.


Hey Dave, did you ever do a 'Harpervision' calibration with the lamp on 'medium'? Is this possible? Whilst I love your settings, the projector can get quite noisy on high to the point where it's distracting.


----------



## nielvm

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks, I'll make the necessary adjustments. It's always nice to have multiple options for settings. Have you tested these across a range of movies, and are you satisfied with the overall picture?


Yes, these are the first settings that look good on all hdr movies. Every other setting looked either too dark, too pale, had crushed blacks or whites or looked unnatural in general.



Keith Ferguson said:


> Did you mean to change the *second* setting from *-20* to -17 in gamma?
> 
> want to make sure.....thanks for the settings.


Yes


----------



## Gazzer55

Thanks - I don't play many video games, when I do would the 5040UB still be a more high definition picture than say the 20 or 30 series Epsons which didn't have e-shift. 

Am I way off in saying that the major difference with the upcoming 5050UB is the 18gb 60HZ which wont make much of a difference if you dont play video games / have a fire stick or other streaming device which can play 24hz?


----------



## avtoronto

xpl0sive said:


> Sorry, you're right. The filter is also engaged in Cinema mode. I also have the European model like you. I was always under the assumption that only Digital Cinema uses the filter.
> 
> I tried out your settings btw...nice work. Did you do the calibration yourself or did you get it done professionally?


Cinema mode does engage a filter but Digital Cinema engages the right filter for HDR. note the following from the Audioholics review: "Therefore, to take full advantage of the new firmware and HDR content with expanded color, Epson recommends that all users select the Digital Cinema Color Mode and HDR Auto mode. This will yield the best experience for dark viewing environments and maximize the 6040UB’s performance. Epson also recommends setting the saturation to 55 and image enhancement to preset 5.

Once I completed the update, I agreed completely with Epson’s decisions to make the default settings brighter. It made a noticeable difference on UHD content.

In case you’re wondering, for other environments Epson recommends using Bright Cinema Color Mode and HDR Auto for a blend of quality and brightness and Bright Cinema color mode and HDR Auto (Bright) for environments with high ambient light. The drawback of those two other settings, as I mentioned previously, is that you won’t get full support for DCI-P3 color. You only get DCI-P3 color support when using the Epson’s Digital Cinema color mode setting."


----------



## nielvm

There is no such thing as "the right" filter, there is only one. You can calibrate every preset to the correct values, but some are easier/closer to reference then others. For SDR I recommend starting with natural mode.

FYI: here is the P3 color space with my settings.


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> Hey Dave, did you ever do a 'Harpervision' calibration with the lamp on 'medium'? Is this possible? Whilst I love your settings, the projector can get quite noisy on high to the point where it's distracting.



No sorry. I’m sure this is possible but you or someone will have to try it using my settings as a baseline to get you started if you want to see what it looks like. I no longer have a 5040 here. 




avtoronto said:


> Cinema mode does engage a filter but Digital Cinema engages the right filter for HDR. note the following from the Audioholics review: "Therefore, to take full advantage of the new firmware and HDR content with expanded color, Epson recommends that all users select the Digital Cinema Color Mode and HDR Auto mode. This will yield the best experience for dark viewing environments and maximize the 6040UB’s performance. Epson also recommends setting the saturation to 55 and image enhancement to preset 5.
> 
> 
> 
> Once I completed the update, I agreed completely with Epson’s decisions to make the default settings brighter. It made a noticeable difference on UHD content.
> 
> 
> 
> In case you’re wondering, for other environments Epson recommends using Bright Cinema Color Mode and HDR Auto for a blend of quality and brightness and Bright Cinema color mode and HDR Auto (Bright) for environments with high ambient light. The drawback of those two other settings, as I mentioned previously, is that you won’t get full support for DCI-P3 color. You only get DCI-P3 color support when using the Epson’s Digital Cinema color mode setting."


There is only one physical filter inside the 5040/6040. This is engaged whether you use Cinema or Digital Cinema Modes. What is happening when you choose Digital Cinema is that it engages this filter and then changes the preset color gamut coded into the projector’s SW/FW to one that is close to P3 gamut for UHD HDR Blu-ray and Streaming sources. When you select Cinema Mode it engages the same filter (a yellow notch filter) but it internally selects a different preset gamut close to Rec709 for HD and standard Blu-rays. 





nielvm said:


> There is no such thing as "the right" filter, there is only one. You can calibrate every preset to the correct values, but some are easier/closer to reference then others. For SDR I recommend starting with natural mode.
> 
> 
> 
> FYI: here is the P3 color space with my settings.



Correct.


----------



## xpl0sive

nielvm said:


> There is no such thing as "the right" filter, there is only one. You can calibrate every preset to the correct values, but some are easier/closer to reference then others. For SDR I recommend starting with natural mode.
> 
> FYI: here is the P3 color space with my settings.


So does this mean you can calibrate for HDR using natural mode and achieve the same colours as Digital Cinema? Sorry if I' off in my assumption, still trying to get my head around this.



Dave Harper said:


> No sorry. I’m sure this is possible but you or someone will have to try it using my settings as a baseline to get you started if you want to see what it looks like. I no longer have a 5040 here.


All good, was just curious if it was actually possible  I might get my calibrator to have a go, or if it can't be done I'll just live with it. 





Dave Harper said:


> There is only one physical filter inside the 5040/6040. This is engaged whether you use Cinema or Digital Cinema Modes. What is happening when you choose Digital Cinema is that it engages this filter and then changes the preset color gamut coded into the projector’s SW/FW to one that is close to P3 gamut for UHD HDR Blu-ray and Streaming sources. When you select Cinema Mode it engages the same filter (a yellow notch filter) but it internally selects a different preset gamut close to Rec709 for HD and standard Blu-rays.


So going by this theory, why does everyone calibrate for SDR using Natural mode? Wouldn't it make sense to start with Cinema instead? 






Correct.[/QUOTE]


----------



## avtoronto

Thanks Dave for the clarification. I did not realize the filter was one and the same although the Epson advice to use Digital Cinema for HDR/P3 stands.


Each of us finds the best looking picture for SDR or HDR material within our own room environments and some users have the resources and talent to calibrate as well in order to get as close to spec as possible. For me, "Cinema" yields a more colourful image as a starting point than "Natural" does for SDR, albeit that it produces a darker looking image than "Natural". In a dark room, this is fine. I use Harpervision settings ("Digital Cinema") for HDR material which looks very good on my screen even without the CMS.


----------



## nielvm

xpl0sive said:


> So does this mean you can calibrate for HDR using natural mode and achieve the same colours as Digital Cinema? Sorry if I' off in my assumption, still trying to get my head around this.
> 
> 
> All good, was just curious if it was actually possible  I might get my calibrator to have a go, or if it can't be done I'll just live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So going by this theory, why does everyone calibrate for SDR using Natural mode? Wouldn't it make sense to start with Cinema instead?


No, to achieve P3 you need cinema or digital cinema. You won't be able to achieve the full color space in natural mode.

If you mean HDR harpervision, my settings use the medium lamp and are based on Dave's settings.

Because the rec709 color space required for SDR is smaller than P3. If you use cinema or digital cinema, you won't be able to track the colors as they should, resulting in unnatural colors.


----------



## Juiced46

rajen83 said:


> Can you name few streaming devices which output 4K/24hz. I have an xbox s and clearly it will not work. So looking to buy another 4K streaming device. I see that fire stick 4k is on sale on AMZN


To be honest, I am not sure, as I use an Xbox One X for all my streaming. The Xbox One S will work and will give you 4K/24hz HDR with Amazon Prime and Blu Ray discs. It will NOT give you 4K/HDR with Netflix though unless you use a Linker. I know the Apple 4KTV and Nvidia shield are popular for the 5040 guys but I am not quite sure of the limitations. I believe you can force a 4K/24hz output on those devices. 



Gazzer55 said:


> Thanks - I don't play many video games, when I do would the 5040UB still be a more high definition picture than say the 20 or 30 series Epsons which didn't have e-shift.
> 
> Am I way off in saying that the major difference with the upcoming 5050UB is the 18gb 60HZ which wont make much of a difference if you dont play video games / have a fire stick or other streaming device which can play 24hz?


Unless I missed it, the 5050UB is just a rumor. I have not seem official specs but I have not been looking recently either. Do you have an official link to a confirmed 5050ub coming out? If it is 18gb it wouldnt be a huge difference aside for ease of compatibility with certain devices due to the 10gb limitation the 5040ub has. It will make a huge difference for gaming. As for us 5040 guys that game in 4K/60hz HDR we have to use a Linker which limits us to 8 bits instead of getting 10-12.


----------



## westbergjoakim

Juiced46 said:


> To be honest, I am not sure, as I use an Xbox One X for all my streaming. The Xbox One S will work and will give you 4K/24hz HDR with Amazon Prime and Blu Ray discs. It will NOT give you 4K/HDR with Netflix though unless you use a Linker. I know the Apple 4KTV and Nvidia shield are popular for the 5040 guys but I am not quite sure of the limitations. I believe you can force a 4K/24hz output on those devices.
> 
> 
> 
> Unless I missed it, the 5050UB is just a rumor. I have not seem official specs but I have not been looking recently either. Do you have an official link to a confirmed 5050ub coming out? If it is 18gb it wouldnt be a huge difference aside for ease of compatibility with certain devices due to the 10gb limitation the 5040ub has. It will make a huge difference for gaming. As for us 5040 guys that game in 4K/60hz HDR we have to use a Linker which limits us to 8 bits instead of getting 10-12.


https://www.epson.se/insights/article/epson-presenterar-tre-pro-uhd-projektorer-paa-ifa-maessan

9400 (5050UB) with 18Gbps/60hz HDR

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

nielvm said:


> No, to achieve P3 you need cinema or digital cinema. You won't be able to achieve the full color space in natural mode.
> 
> If you mean HDR harpervision, my settings use the medium lamp and are based on Dave's settings.
> 
> Because the rec709 color space required for SDR is smaller than P3. If you use cinema or digital cinema, you won't be able to track the colors as they should, resulting in unnatural colors.



Would like to clarify your meaning in your last sentence please. Do you mean if you use "Cinema" for SDR, it will not conform to the correct rec709 colour space and only "Natural" does conform? I'm not arguing with this but still learning as this is different than my understanding.


----------



## Juiced46

westbergjoakim said:


> https://www.epson.se/insights/article/epson-presenterar-tre-pro-uhd-projektorer-paa-ifa-maessan
> 
> 9400 (5050UB) with 18Gbps/60hz HDR
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


I am aware of the 9400 Euro model, but I have not seen an Official US spec 5050?


----------



## nielvm

avtoronto said:


> Would like to clarify your meaning in your last sentence please. Do you mean if you use "Cinema" for SDR, it will not conform to the correct rec709 colour space and only "Natural" does conform? I'm not arguing with this but still learning as this is different than my understanding.


Yes, if you use cinema for rec709, the colors will be too saturated in general. If you like it this way, no problem for me, but it isn’t really like it should...😉


----------



## westbergjoakim

Juiced46 said:


> I am aware of the 9400 Euro model, but I have not seen an Official US spec 5050?


It should be the same when it always have been before. It's weird though that it haven't been announced now. 

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> So does this mean you can calibrate for HDR using natural mode and achieve the same colours as Digital Cinema? Sorry if I' off in my assumption, still trying to get my head around this.
> 
> 
> 
> All good, was just curious if it was actually possible  I might get my calibrator to have a go, or if it can't be done I'll just live with it.
> 
> 
> 
> So going by this theory, why does everyone calibrate for SDR using Natural mode? Wouldn't it make sense to start with Cinema instead?


Sorry I believe I misspoke. Cinema mode uses the filter too as I said, but that mode is not for Rec709. Its also for P3 since it loads the filter, as nielvm states below.............




avtoronto said:


> Thanks Dave for the clarification. I did not realize the filter was one and the same although the Epson advice to use Digital Cinema for HDR/P3 stands.
> 
> Each of us finds the best looking picture for SDR or HDR material within our own room environments and some users have the resources and talent to calibrate as well in order to get as close to spec as possible. For me, "Cinema" yields a more colourful image as a starting point than "Natural" does for SDR, albeit that it produces a darker looking image than "Natural". In a dark room, this is fine. I use Harpervision settings ("Digital Cinema") for HDR material which looks very good on my screen even without the CMS.



I agree. It’s darker because of the filter being place. This is one of the reasons why I created HarperVision in the first place. 



nielvm said:


> No, to achieve P3 you need cinema or digital cinema. You won't be able to achieve the full color space in natural mode.
> 
> 
> 
> If you mean HDR harpervision, my settings use the medium lamp and are based on Dave's settings.
> 
> 
> 
> Because the rec709 color space required for SDR is smaller than P3. If you use cinema or digital cinema, you won't be able to track the colors as they should, resulting in unnatural colors.





nielvm said:


> Yes, if you use cinema for rec709, the colors will be too saturated in general. If you like it this way, no problem for me, but it isn’t really like it should...😉



Yes I think this sounds correct. I haven’t had one in a while so my memory may be a little off.


----------



## avtoronto

Dave Harper said:


> Sorry I believe I misspoke. Cinema mode uses the filter too as I said, but that mode is not for Rec709. Its also for P3 since it loads the filter, as nielvm states below.............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree. It’s darker because of the filter being place. This is one of the reasons why I created HarperVision in the first place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I think this sounds correct. I haven’t had one in a while so my memory may be a little off.


Thanks to both of you for clarifying. I have been operating on the wrong premise so will revisit "Natural" for SDR with my WOW disc.


----------



## ProCentral Rob

For anyone interested, we just posted a side-by-side comparison at ProjectorCentral of the new HC4010 with its updated pixel-shifting tech and HDR tone-mapping vs. the current HC5040UB. I think the 5040 lovers will be pleased for all the right and expected reasons... but I won't spoil the ending for you. 



https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-4010-vs-5040.htm


...Happy Thanksgiving to all!


----------



## xpl0sive

Thanks for clarifying guys, it all makes sense now. I will continue to use 'Natural' for SDR content and the Cinema modes for HDR.

Side note, but what is everyone using for games? I have no idea what colour space to use for this.


----------



## nielvm

Look under info while feeding the signal. Then you can see for yourself.


----------



## rajen83

*5040ub causing circuit breaker trip*

Hi Friends,

I was so thrilled to receive the 5040ub and fired it up right away hoping to see spectacular visuals. However, my job was short lived. Within 10-15s everything in the room shut off. I checked the circuit breaker and see that it has tripped. I tried again, it tripped again. Following are the connections

5040ub


----------



## magnification

Operating the projector in normal will run at 373 watts (normal mode) and if the current is 120 volts it should only be drawing only 3.10 amp. I'm going to assume those rooms are on their own breakers since I was going to ask about how old the breakers are because they can also sometimes fail or become unreliable due to various factors such as age. I would say it sounds more like a circuit issue with the projector for example could be the lamp ballast. So yea, a replacement sounds in order. I doubt you'll have any issues with the replacement.


----------



## markmon1

rajen83 said:


> Hi Friends,
> 
> I was so thrilled to receive the 5040ub and fired it up right away hoping to see spectacular visuals. However, my job was short lived. Within 10-15s everything in the room shut off. I checked the circuit breaker and see that it has tripped. I tried again, it tripped again. Following are the connections
> 
> 5040ub


----------



## ruggercb

markmon1 said:


> Do you perhaps have an arc-fault breaker? If your media room is an upstairs bedroom, it most likely has this. A lot of new houses they put these annoying breakers in by default and you have to have to get rid of them and get normal breakers in place. My friend's new house has these stupid things in the entire panel even the "home office" where PC's are known to trip these things.




I second this. I had to remove the arc fault breakers in my media room and replace them with good old ground fault breakers. 

My PJ kept tripping the arc fault breaker. No problem since, going on 3 years.


----------



## avtoronto

ruggercb said:


> I second this. I had to remove the arc fault breakers in my media room and replace them with good old ground fault breakers.
> 
> My PJ kept tripping the arc fault breaker. No problem since, going on 3 years.


Arc fault breakers are a PITA.


----------



## rajen83

ruggercb said:


> I second this. I had to remove the arc fault breakers in my media room and replace them with good old ground fault breakers.
> 
> My PJ kept tripping the arc fault breaker. No problem since, going on 3 years.


Yes indeed. I checked the panel and found it to be "EATON Combination Type AFCI Type BRAF" 15A breaker. The media room is upstairs alongside other bedrooms. My house is 9years old and we moved in about 2.5 years back. 

Isn't there a state (North Carolina) building code where we are not allowed to change things as we like them. I will talk to a licensed electrician and discuss next week. I am also checking with my neighbor why he doesn't see this issue as I think all the homes in the neighborhood would have been wired the same. He has a different AVR Marantz SR5012 while I use Yamaha RX-V683. Now it makes me think is the AVR at fault.

Anyway, I have asked for a replacement projector, and really hope that it is an issue with the PJ and I don't have to mess with anything else. Other option is to wire the PJ to be on different room's breaker.


----------



## Easyenough

Hoping for a tip. Multi-multi year AVS lurker (like 10 years) and hugely grateful to the Harpers and many others for all I've learned. Just re-read 150 pages of 5040 posts and couldn't find an answer. I know this is a 5040 thread, not an AVR thread, but the question is really just about feeding the Epson. 

I need a new AV Receiver. I only watch movies, mostly disc, some streaming. No TV, no games. I have the 5040UB projecting on a 120" elite screen screen (10 years old so don't remember model) a Sony UBP-X700 and an Onkyo TX SR507 that doesn't pass through 4K and a 5.1 surround setup. I want to replace the receiver for less than $700 in the next couple days while the sales are on. This is only to feed the 5040 (and get matching sound to speakers). Would love to hear what you all love and what you all hate about AVRs. 

I'm thinking that ideally the Blu-ray player converts/outputs the 24hz that the 5040 wants regardless of source (documentation seems to say it can), and that the AVR just needs to be able to pass through. But is another alternative to get an AVR that can convert/process the signal? I've read six AVR manuals trying to find options to convert the signal and haven't seen anything detailed about what will be output. Could be I'm accessing the wrong manuals.

Some candidate AVRs: Yamaha TSR-7850, Onkyo TX-NR686, Sony STR-DN1080, and Denon AVR-X3400H. 

Thank you for any tips!


----------



## Tristan944

What's the best way to decrease the red colors? Skin tones are way too red. I've already adjusted the Skin Tone slider, I guess I could adjust it more but it seems to negatively affect the image if I slide it too far. Can I just decrease it in the gamma section?


----------



## westbergjoakim

Can someone tell me which models of HDFury that will work to get HDR 60Hz in Netflix and other apps like that? I have seen Integral and Linker been mentioned before. Are these two the only ones? Thanks!

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

Tristan944 said:


> What's the best way to decrease the red colors? Skin tones are way too red. I've already adjusted the Skin Tone slider, I guess I could adjust it more but it seems to negatively affect the image if I slide it too far. Can I just decrease it in the gamma section?


Adjust red gain


----------



## xpl0sive

Just wondering what do people do when gaming with an HDR capable console. Do you have a different set of settings for HDR games and non-HDR games? How do you know if a game has HDR or not? I play on a PS4 Pro and I'm confused by this.


----------



## Dave Harper

Tristan944 said:


> What's the best way to decrease the red colors? Skin tones are way too red. I've already adjusted the Skin Tone slider, I guess I could adjust it more but it seems to negatively affect the image if I slide it too far. Can I just decrease it in the gamma section?





nielvm said:


> Adjust red gain



.........Or also Red in the CMS could be off. 

You should really have a meter and software to do these adjustments. Make sure to write down all the settings before messing with this so you can go back if needed. 





westbergjoakim said:


> Can someone tell me which models of HDFury that will work to get HDR 60Hz in Netflix and other apps like that? I have seen Integral and Linker been mentioned before. Are these two the only ones? Thanks!
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk



There’s also the HDFURY Vertex which is pretty much an Integral and Linker combined into one.


----------



## thesonofdarwin

Has anyone that's had this projector for awhile run into any issues with the exhaust fan starting to fail? I'm nearing the two year mark on mine and the lamp replacement indicator just came on. Around the same time my projector started to make a noise that sounds very similar to a computer fan when its bearings start to go bad. I do not have a repair center anywhere near me, so if replacing the exhaust fan is something I can do myself I'd prefer to. However, I cannot find the part on any of Epson's guaranteed parts retailers, nor a PN to try to hunt one down myself. Anyone have any experience doing a replacement? Is there any chance the noise is coming from the aging lamp? I'd hate to buy a lamp right now just to troubleshoot this.

Here's a video of the noise: youtube.com/watch?v=ewVroeCfy7E

Apologies you need to turn the volume up pretty much to max due to my crappy microphone. However, it is much louder than it seems in the video.


----------



## Juiced46

xpl0sive said:


> Just wondering what do people do when gaming with an HDR capable console. Do you have a different set of settings for HDR games and non-HDR games? How do you know if a game has HDR or not? I play on a PS4 Pro and I'm confused by this.


If the game has HDR, when the game boots up, the screen will go blank briefly. This is the unit switching to HDR. You can then verify it in the PJ info screen. It will show if its receiving an HDR signal or not.

With that being said. I have a saved HDR mode and a saved SDR mode. I use my saved HDR mode for HDR games and movies. SDR for SDR games, movies and cable TV. Its a quick and easy switch. Press the memory button on the remote and select the saved Preset you made  Label them as you see fit.


----------



## xpl0sive

Juiced46 said:


> If the game has HDR, when the game boots up, the screen will go blank briefly. This is the unit switching to HDR. You can then verify it in the PJ info screen. It will show if its receiving an HDR signal or not.
> 
> With that being said. I have a saved HDR mode and a saved SDR mode. I use my saved HDR mode for HDR games and movies. SDR for SDR games, movies and cable TV. Its a quick and easy switch. Press the memory button on the remote and select the saved Preset you made  Label them as you see fit.


Thanks! reason I ask is that I generally have SDR dynamic mode turned on as I use Harpervision settings, however I don't like Harpervision for games so when playing a HDR game I would need to switch it up.

What's the best colour mode to use for gaming? Bright Cinema or Natural?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks! reason I ask is that I generally have SDR dynamic mode turned on as I use Harpervision settings, however I don't like Harpervision for games so when playing a HDR game I would need to switch it up.
> 
> 
> 
> What's the best colour mode to use for gaming? Bright Cinema or Natural?




I like natural for hdr and bright cinema for sdr gaming. Usually I’m not gaming in complete darkness as it strains my eyes especially during those long FPS sessions. This is in contrast to my cinema (sdr) and digital cinema (hdr) settings which I use for dark room movie/tv viewing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Hi Dave,


When you folks are mentioning Cinema mode using that P3 filter, does that include 'Bright Cinema' too ? Thanks in advance.






Dave Harper said:


> Sorry I believe I misspoke. Cinema mode uses the filter too as I said, but that mode is not for Rec709. Its also for P3 since it loads the filter, as nielvm states below.............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree. It’s darker because of the filter being place. This is one of the reasons why I created HarperVision in the first place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I think this sounds correct. I haven’t had one in a while so my memory may be a little off.


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> I like natural for hdr and bright cinema for sdr gaming. Usually I’m not gaming in complete darkness as it strains my eyes especially during those long FPS sessions. This is in contrast to my cinema (sdr) and digital cinema (hdr) settings which I use for dark room movie/tv viewing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks man. I don't like gaming in complete darkness either, but if I turn on the lights it completely washes out the image. I have my lights on dimmers so I might try and dim them and see if it helps.

Your settings are interesting. Thought you'd use Bright Cinema for HDR gaming. Do you use the same calibration that you use for movies?


----------



## nielvm

ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> 
> When you folks are mentioning Cinema mode using that P3 filter, does that include 'Bright Cinema' too ? Thanks in advance.
> 
> ]


Cinema and digital cinema use the filter...


----------



## JewDaddy

I just saw this in a different thread. The Epson 5050 Manual got officially released!!!!










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ac388

Thanks. So Bright Cinema do not use the P3 filter then.


----------



## JewDaddy

Bad news about the upcoming Epson 5050. Looking over the manual I noticed the same setback with Frame Interpolation as the 5040. There is still no Frame Interpolation available with a 4K signal. It’s only available if you are using the 4k enhancement option on a 1080P signal at 24hz. Wow....... Very disappointing Epson


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks man. I don't like gaming in complete darkness either, but if I turn on the lights it completely washes out the image. I have my lights on dimmers so I might try and dim them and see if it helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Your settings are interesting. Thought you'd use Bright Cinema for HDR gaming. Do you use the same calibration that you use for movies?




That washing out of the image with the lights on is exactly why I am such a proponent of ALR screens for most people, even those with a dedicated theater. Just gives you so much more flexibility regarding the viewing environment. But I digress... I have bright room settings and dark room settings for both HDR and SDR and use them for both gaming and movie viewing, I don’t have specific gaming settings per say. For HDR I use Natural (bright room, Auto Bright) and Digital Cinema (Dark Room, Auto Bright). For SDR I use Bright Cinema in a bright room and Cinema for dark room viewing. Using Bright Cinema over Natural for ambient light viewing with SDR has more to do with ease of programming with harmony then anything else as accessing the memory settings is a hit and miss endeavor with harmony and Natural’s starting points for an HDR calibration is far better then Bright Cinema. Don’t let Natural’s color temperature settings fool you it is a far more neutral out of the box setting then Bright Cinema for HDR calibrating. Also you can easily calibrate out Bright Cinema’s starting inaccuracies with SDR but it’s MUCH more difficult to do the same with HDR calibrations. Hope that all makes sense lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

ac388 said:


> Thanks. So Bright Cinema do not use the P3 filter then.




Bright Cinema and Natural do not use the color filter. Cinema and Digital Cinema use the filter. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

I have the Epson 4000, and I know this is the 5040 thread, but since it gets more activity and the models are similar enough I'll ask it here...

I have an irritating red/purple push for skin tones ONLY when viewing sdr material. Are there any basic pointers you can offer to dial this back without creating other issues? I've tried the color temp and skin tone options and they don't really get it done (I have to max out the slider and then I have way too much yellow happening). It doesn't seem to matter which mode I'm using either; I generally use digital cinema. 

With hdr material I seem to have zero issues, Fwiw. 

What tools do you use to set proper color balance overall that would help with skin tones? I had originally calibrated with the old avs sdr toolkit for just basic contrast and brightness.

Thanks 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jt7272

Easyenough said:


> Hoping for a tip. Multi-multi year AVS lurker (like 10 years) and hugely grateful to the Harpers and many others for all I've learned. Just re-read 150 pages of 5040 posts and couldn't find an answer. I know this is a 5040 thread, not an AVR thread, but the question is really just about feeding the Epson.
> 
> I need a new AV Receiver. I only watch movies, mostly disc, some streaming. No TV, no games. I have the 5040UB projecting on a 120" elite screen screen (10 years old so don't remember model) a Sony UBP-X700 and an Onkyo TX SR507 that doesn't pass through 4K and a 5.1 surround setup. I want to replace the receiver for less than $700 in the next couple days while the sales are on. This is only to feed the 5040 (and get matching sound to speakers). Would love to hear what you all love and what you all hate about AVRs.
> 
> I'm thinking that ideally the Blu-ray player converts/outputs the 24hz that the 5040 wants regardless of source (documentation seems to say it can), and that the AVR just needs to be able to pass through. But is another alternative to get an AVR that can convert/process the signal? I've read six AVR manuals trying to find options to convert the signal and haven't seen anything detailed about what will be output. Could be I'm accessing the wrong manuals.
> 
> Some candidate AVRs: Yamaha TSR-7850, Onkyo TX-NR686, Sony STR-DN1080, and Denon AVR-X3400H.
> 
> Thank you for any tips!


I am currently using the 6040ub with a Sony x800 and the Denon AVR-x3400H. I have yet to encounter a situation where 4K HDR was not passed to the 6040ub in a way that it can use it. However, I have not tried 4k60p HDR gaming. I imagine that it will not work. The Denon will pass the signals just fine but it will not convert 4k60p HDR to 4k24p HDR.

To clarify, the following have worked just fine (these are all that I have used/tested):

1. 4k60 SDR on youtube (x800 as the player)
2. 1080p HDR via PS4
3. 4k24 HDR UHD Bluray (x800)
4. 4k24 SDR using X800 to play video files directly (USB drive)
5. 4k24 SDR via Amazon Prime (x800; I don't think that HDR content is available using this device, or at least it wasn't when I last tried it)
6. 4k24 HDR via Netflix (x800)

I have also disabled all video scaling in the AVR-X3400H.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

DavidinGA said:


> I have the Epson 4000, and I know this is the 5040 thread, but since it gets more activity and the models are similar enough I'll ask it here...
> 
> I have an irritating red/purple push for skin tones ONLY when viewing sdr material. Are there any basic pointers you can offer to dial this back without creating other issues? I've tried the color temp and skin tone options and they don't really get it done (I have to max out the slider and then I have way too much yellow happening). It doesn't seem to matter which mode I'm using either; I generally use digital cinema.
> 
> With hdr material I seem to have zero issues, Fwiw.
> 
> What tools do you use to set proper color balance overall that would help with skin tones? I had originally calibrated with the old avs sdr toolkit for just basic contrast and brightness.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




What mode are you using natural, cinema or bright cinema? Also what are your current settings for the mode you are using including cms and gamma? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jrohlf

*Horizontal Keystone*

After 3 power supply failures I am now on my 4th projector. The customer service rep assured me that the power supply issue has been fixed which is promising but with this last projector I am seeing significant horizontal keystoning. The projector is about as centered as it can be left-to-right but the image's left edge is 52" tall while the right is 54". This level of discrepancy is quite noticeable, especially with any onscreen graphics or menus. 

Has anyone else seen and/or corrected horizontal keystoning with the 5040UB?


----------



## MisterAmazing

Hi guys,

I've tried to follow the thread a little bit and get some numbers.
I have been left not really knowing what to do lol.

Has anyone calibrated for Rec2020 with HDR? I attempted to just play around with it and the reds man. The reds are way over the top. I don't have any expensive machinery but I was just playing around with the property values and couldn't get it to really look good last night.


----------



## MisterAmazing

jrohlf said:


> After 3 power supply failures I am now on my 4th projector. The customer service rep assured me that the power supply issue has been fixed which is promising but with this last projector I am seeing significant horizontal keystoning. The projector is about as centered as it can be left-to-right but the image's left edge is 52" tall while the right is 54". This level of discrepancy is quite noticeable, especially with any onscreen graphics or menus.
> 
> Has anyone else seen and/or corrected horizontal keystoning with the 5040UB?


I had it, I fixed it by turned the projector a little bit to one side and then shifting the lens. I wasn't really center though.


----------



## DavidinGA

OrcusVaruna said:


> What mode are you using natural, cinema or bright cinema? Also what are your current settings for the mode you are using including cms and gamma?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'll have to get the details at home, but I'm pretty close to how it came stock.

Mainly cinema or bright cinema for sdr. 

I've not adjusted cms or gamma.


----------



## Juiced46

westbergjoakim said:


> Can someone tell me which models of HDFury that will work to get HDR 60Hz in Netflix and other apps like that? I have seen Integral and Linker been mentioned before. Are these two the only ones? Thanks!
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


I use a Linker and it works great. I cannot speak for the integral though. 



xpl0sive said:


> Thanks! reason I ask is that I generally have SDR dynamic mode turned on as I use Harpervision settings, however I don't like Harpervision for games so when playing a HDR game I would need to switch it up.
> 
> What's the best colour mode to use for gaming? Bright Cinema or Natural?


Yes, so in your case you will have a few extra button presses. I believe you can customize the user button on the remote. Maybe you can program that as a hot key to switch between SDR mode and HDR mode. 

As far as gaming and HDR, or movie watching. My viewing settings are a bit out of the norm compared to alot of the guys on the forum. I have tried Harpervision and my picture in gaming looked a bit washed out/gray. (it was all setup correctly). I ended up going with my own calibration which I am happy with using Auto Bright. 

I actually use Bright Cinema for everything. Regardless if it is gaming, 4k HDR movies, or SDR cable TV viewing. I also only use ECO bulb mode. 

I have a 100% light controlled room with black walls and ceilings and on ECO I feel it is plenty bright. I also run a smaller screen then most (100") and have a bit of a short throw distance which may attribute to why I can get it bright enough in ECO vs others. 

If you are going to use Harpervision for movies and regular HDR mode for gaming, just setup another preset and label it appropriately and like I said, you may be able to set it to the USER key to change it faster.


----------



## Dave Harper

Juiced46 said:


> ........As far as gaming and HDR, or movie watching. My viewing settings are a bit out of the norm compared to alot of the guys on the forum. *I have tried Harpervision and my picture in gaming looked a bit washed out/gray. (it was all setup correctly)*........



I know you’re saying that _“it was all setup correctly”,_ but if you were sending a full HDR source signal and using my settings, then I can’t imagine the resultant picture could be described as _”a bit washed out/gray”_. Washed out and gray are things I have never seen in regards to my settings. Something must be off, Just sayin’.


----------



## Juiced46

Dave Harper said:


> I know you’re saying that _“it was all setup correctly”,_ but if you were sending a full HDR source signal and using my settings, then I can’t imagine the resultant picture could be described as _”a bit washed out/gray”_. Washed out and gray are things I have never seen in regards to my settings. Something must be off, Just sayin’.


Dave, trust me it was setup correctly. I mean no disrespect at all to your settings. I believe I actually may have PMed you about this some time ago also. I have no explanation why. Its ONLY when gaming through my Xbox One X. It did it with one Xbox One S also. 

The projector is indeed getting an HDR Rec2020 signal for sure. Its 4:2:2. I am manually setting it to SDR on the projector as well as your instructions say and I am using all of your settings. I have checked it so many times, I do not know why it looks like this. Its hard to explain it. If I get time I will put all the settings back in and try it and take some pics to show you (lost all my settings when I got a replacement unit)


----------



## ac388

Noted with thanks


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> That washing out of the image with the lights on is exactly why I am such a proponent of ALR screens for most people, even those with a dedicated theater. Just gives you so much more flexibility regarding the viewing environment. But I digress... I have bright room settings and dark room settings for both HDR and SDR and use them for both gaming and movie viewing, I don’t have specific gaming settings per say. For HDR I use Natural (bright room, Auto Bright) and Digital Cinema (Dark Room, Auto Bright). For SDR I use Bright Cinema in a bright room and Cinema for dark room viewing. Using Bright Cinema over Natural for ambient light viewing with SDR has more to do with ease of programming with harmony then anything else as accessing the memory settings is a hit and miss endeavor with harmony and Natural’s starting points for an HDR calibration is far better then Bright Cinema. Don’t let Natural’s color temperature settings fool you it is a far more neutral out of the box setting then Bright Cinema for HDR calibrating. Also you can easily calibrate out Bright Cinema’s starting inaccuracies with SDR but it’s MUCH more difficult to do the same with HDR calibrations. Hope that all makes sense lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks. Something I didn't really consider when I bought my screen since it was a dedicated room. At the time I wasn't even aware you could get a screen that would produce such an awesome image with this projector in ambient light. 

What I do is just game in here, but when I'm not up for gaming in a dark room I go play in the living room on the TV. Not the same experience but I'm ok with it.


----------



## gakbw

Dave Harper said:


> It sounds to me like gakbw is sending an SDR and/or HDR Rec709 color signal, but nielvm’s settings are for BT2020/DCI-P3 so they look overblown to gakbw.


Hi Dave,

what does it mean "Rec709 color signal, but nielvm’s settings are for BT2020/DCI-P3 " I don't know this terminology! these options are available in settings options? Please explain in detail! Thanks in advance.


----------



## xpl0sive

Dave Harper said:


> I know you’re saying that _“it was all setup correctly”,_ but if you were sending a full HDR source signal and using my settings, then I can’t imagine the resultant picture could be described as _”a bit washed out/gray”_. Washed out and gray are things I have never seen in regards to my settings. Something must be off, Just sayin’.


Dave, did you test your settings with games? Are games mastered the same as UHD discs as far as colour goes? Could be why people aren't seeing the same wow factor as they do with movies.


----------



## xpl0sive

I asked this question in the Panasonic UB820 thread but I'll ask here as well. Is there anyone who upgraded from the UB900 to UB820 and if so, was it worth the upgrade? or was it incremental at best? I want to buy this player, but not if there is not much improvement over the 900.


----------



## Dave Harper

Juiced46 said:


> Dave, trust me it was setup correctly. I mean no disrespect at all to your settings. I believe I actually may have PMed you about this some time ago also. I have no explanation why. Its ONLY when gaming through my Xbox One X. It did it with one Xbox One S also.
> 
> 
> 
> The projector is indeed getting an HDR Rec2020 signal for sure. Its 4:2:2. I am manually setting it to SDR on the projector as well as your instructions say and I am using all of your settings. I have checked it so many times, I do not know why it looks like this. Its hard to explain it. If I get time I will put all the settings back in and try it and take some pics to show you (lost all my settings when I got a replacement unit)



I think the XBox outputs a PC style signal which is RGBHV at 0-255 levels (Full Range), so that could be why it looks washed out and grey. That will happen when you use Full Range levels but the source is mastered at Limited Range. Maybe his accounts for the differences?




xpl0sive said:


> Dave, did you test your settings with games? Are games mastered the same as UHD discs as far as colour goes? Could be why people aren't seeing the same wow factor as they do with movies.



No I didn’t test with games. Could be. 



gakbw said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> 
> 
> what does it mean "Rec709 color signal, but nielvm’s settings are for BT2020/DCI-P3 " I don't know this terminology! these options are available in settings options? Please explain in detail! Thanks in advance.



Those are two differing color gamuts. Rec709 is the one used by HD sources like Standard Blu-rays and HD cable and satellite. BT2020 is the newer wider color gamut that was approved by the UHDA (and others) for sources like UHD Blu-rays and streaming that use wider color gamuts to get more colors available to be displayed to the viewer. It uses DCI P3 within the BT2020 color gamut container since it fits within its boundaries and no real display devices can do Full BT2020 yet. The DCI P3 gamut is mapped to the BT2020 coordinates for things like UHD Blurays. DCI P3 is the color standard/gamut adopted by Digital Cinemas for theatrical presentations. 

Wikipedia and Google are your friend.


----------



## gakbw

Dave Harper said:


> I think the XBox outputs a PC style signal which is RGBHV at 0-255 levels (Full Range), so that could be why it looks washed out and grey. That will happen when you use Full Range levels but the source is mastered at Limited Range. Maybe his accounts for the differences?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No I didn’t test with games. Could be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those are two differing color gamuts. Rec709 is the one used by HD sources like Standard Blu-rays and HD cable and satellite. BT2020 is the newer wider color gamut that was approved by the UHDA (and others) for sources like UHD Blu-rays and streaming that use wider color gamuts to get more colors available to be displayed to the viewer. It uses DCI P3 within the BT2020 color gamut container since it fits within its boundaries and no real display devices can do Full BT2020 yet. The DCI P3 gamut is mapped to the BT2020 coordinates for things like UHD Blurays. DCI P3 is the color standard/gamut adopted by Digital Cinemas for theatrical presentations.
> 
> Wikipedia and Google are your friend.


Thanks Dave! But you are our Wikipedia ! Last thing, do we have both options available in projector settings to choose either one? I mean where I can see it in Epson 6040ub these options to select.


----------



## Dave Harper

gakbw said:


> Thanks Dave! But you are our Wikipedia ! Last thing, do we have both options available in projector settings to choose either one? I mean where I can see it in Epson 6040ub these options to select.




Probably. I haven’t had one in a while so you’d have to check the manual and menus or ask someone here who has one and knows.


----------



## nielvm

I took some time to compare my "harpervision" settings with the suggested digital cinema setting with saturation at 55. 
Apart from color accuracy (pics are a tad too warm compared to the real image), the biggest gain is found in the details in the lowest regions.

With HDR and a standard setting (cinema or digital cinema with HDR mode 1) I always found it so hard to see details in the lowest regions. They are there, it doesn't clip, but you almost have to pauze the image to be able to see them. 

Warning: picture bomb...
First image is with "harpervision" settings, second is digital cinema with saturation at 55 and HDR mode 1.

If anyone feels like making a comparison slider for each pic set, be my guest


----------



## ANDYK48

For me a comparison slider for each pic set is not necessary.

It is very simple.

Harpervision all the way


----------



## jadcru

Hi, new to the forum. Just connected the 5040ub after being boxed for 11 months b/c I was still working on the HT room. Looked great out of the box, update the FW and had this red color throughout half of the screen that came on and off intermittently--called Epson and they had shipped a refurbed 5040ub overnight. All is good. 
Now hooked up the PJ, receiver and XBOX X and noticed that using an active HDMI (from Monoprice/Prime Cables) at 50 ft run the picture on XBOX X intermittently goes on and off. This does not happen with the a non active HDMI cable when plugged into the HDMI 1 or 2 port of PJ--I've narrowed it down to a problem with the active HDMI and I have used it in either direction just to test (it is a unilateral cable only) and the same thing happens. What seems to work is when I extend the active HDMI with an HDMI coupler and plugged into a regular HDMI cable into the receiver to extend the length, the PJ seems to work just fine. What is happening here and should I just pull out the active HDMI and run a regular 2.0 HDMI cable from PJ to receiver? I got the active cable originally b/c of the longer run I had to install which also costs significantly more. Anyone else encounter this.
Thanks--this forum is great!


----------



## xpl0sive

xpl0sive said:


> I asked this question in the Panasonic UB820 thread but I'll ask here as well. Is there anyone who upgraded from the UB900 to UB820 and if so, was it worth the upgrade? or was it incremental at best? I want to buy this player, but not if there is not much improvement over the 900.


Hoping someone can answer this for me. Or perhaps another question for Dave, is there any benefit upgrading to this player if I am running Harpervision settings? Am I right in assuming that the 'HDR Oprimizer' built into this player is essentially doing what your Harpervision settings were designed to do?


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> Hoping someone can answer this for me. Or perhaps another question for Dave, is there any benefit upgrading to this player if I am running Harpervision settings? Am I right in assuming that the 'HDR Oprimizer' built into this player is essentially doing what your Harpervision settings were designed to do?



No because the benefit of this player is it’s dynamic HDR to SDR tone mapping and my settings are based on the projector receiving an HDR signal, not an SDR one. Now the question would be if the tone mapping of the 820 results in a better image than my HarperVision settings do. I can’t answer that because I don’t have a 5040 anymore. Maybe someone else that has one with an 820 can test it?

The HDR Optimizer is dynamic and bases it’s conversion on each title’s reported nits levels. My HarperVision is static and based on about a 1200 nit mastered curve. 

What I can tell you is that the HarperVision settings I have for the BenQ LK970 seem to work better overall than when I tried the 820’s tone mapping, but to be honest I haven’t done extensive testing in that mode yet because I had to ship it out. I’m hoping to do so when the next one arrives.


----------



## xpl0sive

Dave Harper said:


> No because the benefit of this player is it’s dynamic HDR to SDR tone mapping and my settings are based on the projector receiving an HDR signal, not an SDR one. Now the question would be if the tone mapping of the 820 results in a better image than my HarperVision settings do. I can’t answer that because I don’t have a 5040 anymore. Maybe someone else that has one with an 820 can test it?
> 
> The HDR Optimizer is dynamic and bases it’s conversion on each title’s reported nits levels. My HarperVision is static and based on about a 1200 nit mastered curve.
> 
> What I can tell you is that the HarperVision settings I have for the BenQ LK970 seem to work better overall than when I tried the 820’s tone mapping, but to be honest I haven’t done extensive testing in that mode yet because I had to ship it out. I’m hoping to do so when the next one arrives.


Wouldn't it be better to leave the player in HDR mode and use the optimizer? Or does it produce a better picture when converting to SDR?


----------



## avtoronto

xpl0sive said:


> Wouldn't it be better to leave the player in HDR mode and use the optimizer? Or does it produce a better picture when converting to SDR?


4040 owner here. I can tell you that using the 820 set to SDR/2020 and the projector set to Digital Cinema with gamma at 2 yields a very good picture. I use Harpervision when streaming from Apple TV 4K which is also very good, but the image from the disc is excellent so I can imagine it would be even better on the 5040.


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> Wouldn't it be better to leave the player in HDR mode and use the optimizer? Or does it produce a better picture when converting to SDR?



Yes leaving it in HDR and using the Optimizer should give you an advantage over the UB900 without it.


----------



## scarr2k

Just got a new Epson 5040 and started playing a BluRay this evening using an Xbox One X (incredibles 2) and I got some terrible “pixelation” or “artifacts” not sure the correct terminology but hoping someone can help me identify the issue. I tried the Blu-ray On an old Sony Blu-ray player and had no issues. I’m attaching an image of an example what we saw.

Btw. I have the newest Epson firmware installed.

I’m wondering if it’s an issue with the Xbox one X which is new or possibly an hdmi cable? Using the hdmi cable that came with the Xbox into an Onkyo receiver. The Blu-ray player also goes Into the same Onkyo receiver to the Epson.


----------



## xpl0sive

avtoronto said:


> 4040 owner here. I can tell you that using the 820 set to SDR/2020 and the projector set to Digital Cinema with gamma at 2 yields a very good picture. I use Harpervision when streaming from Apple TV 4K which is also very good, but the image from the disc is excellent so I can imagine it would be even better on the 5040.


Thanks. Have you compared using Harpervision to using the 820 with HDR optimizer?


----------



## bluer101

scarr2k said:


> Just got a new Epson 5040 and started playing a BluRay this evening using an Xbox One X (incredibles 2) and I got some terrible “pixelation” or “artifacts” not sure the correct terminology but hoping someone can help me identify the issue. I tried the Blu-ray On an old Sony Blu-ray player and had no issues. I’m attaching an image of an example what we saw.
> 
> Btw. I have the newest Epson firmware installed.
> 
> I’m wondering if it’s an issue with the Xbox one X which is new or possibly an hdmi cable? Using the hdmi cable that came with the Xbox into an Onkyo receiver. The Blu-ray player also goes Into the same Onkyo receiver to the Epson.


I would say hdmi cable. For testing hook the Xbox directly to the 5040.


----------



## scarr2k

bluer101 said:


> scarr2k said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got a new Epson 5040 and started playing a BluRay this evening using an Xbox One X (incredibles 2) and I got some terrible “pixelation” or “artifacts” not sure the correct terminology but hoping someone can help me identify the issue. I tried the Blu-ray On an old Sony Blu-ray player and had no issues. I’m attaching an image of an example what we saw.
> 
> Btw. I have the newest Epson firmware installed.
> 
> I’m wondering if it’s an issue with the Xbox one X which is new or possibly an hdmi cable? Using the hdmi cable that came with the Xbox into an Onkyo receiver. The Blu-ray player also goes Into the same Onkyo receiver to the Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> I would say hdmi cable. For testing hook the Xbox directly to the 5040.
Click to expand...

Thanks good idea. I tried the Blu-ray again inside the Xbox and didn’t get the same artifacts so not sure what was happening. Otherwise love the Epson l!


----------



## Lithium

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks. Have you compared using Harpervision to using the 820 with HDR optimizer?


I've tried the 820 out to SDR/2020 with Digital Cinema and gamma somewhere around default. It's a decent picture, however, it's not 'right' (for reasons explained many many posts back). But, I do think it has potential with a proper SDR/2020 gamma calibration. But overall, right now HarperVision has way more pop and the difference is noticeably better. So, with the 820 turn the Optimizer On and set the display to Middle Luminance so that all content is mapped to 1000nits which is fairly close to HarperVision's clipping point (~1100 I believe).


----------



## xpl0sive

Lithium said:


> I've tried the 820 out to SDR/2020 with Digital Cinema and gamma somewhere around default. It's a decent picture, however, it's not 'right' (for reasons explained many many posts back). But, I do think it has potential with a proper SDR/2020 gamma calibration. But overall, right now HarperVision has way more pop and the difference is noticeably better. So, with the 820 turn the Optimizer On and set the display to Middle Luminance so that all content is mapped to 1000nits which is fairly close to HarperVision's clipping point (~1100 I believe).


Thanks for this. Reason I ask is that I'm getting my projector calibrated in 2 weeks, and was curious if it was worth getting the 820 before he comes so he has the best tools available to give me the best picture, and relegate my 900 to the living room. From what you're saying though, sounds like Harpervision settings are better anyway.


----------



## avtoronto

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks for this. Reason I ask is that I'm getting my projector calibrated in 2 weeks, and was curious if it was worth getting the 820 before he comes so he has the best tools available to give me the best picture, and relegate my 900 to the living room. From what you're saying though, sounds like Harpervision settings are better anyway.


Looking at the picture using HDR/2020 with Digital Cinema basically at default settings, SDR/2020 also with Idgital Cinema, and Harpervision, I am hard pressed to see much of a difference now in the 820 output however Harpervision produced a slightly darker image BUT I don't have any measurement instruments and can only view and compare specific scenes. I need more UHD discs to better compare. I do like the HDR adjustments the 820 provides which likely speaks to the tweaker in me. Regardless, I am quite pleased with the 820's picture. I am a neophyte at all this so always learning from this forum and other sources so obviously YMMV and I am using a 4040 whereas the 5040 may produce different results.


----------



## Lithium

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks for this. Reason I ask is that I'm getting my projector calibrated in 2 weeks, and was curious if it was worth getting the 820 before he comes so he has the best tools available to give me the best picture, and relegate my 900 to the living room. From what you're saying though, sounds like Harpervision settings are better anyway.


The general consensus, which includes HT professionals, is that for best results, when paired with a projector, the 820 should be used to tone map and output to SDR/2020. The projector should be calibrated to Gamma 2.4... it's this part that is not trivial on the 5040. It requires a fine tune of the gamma curve plus edits to the CMS. If it were me, I would ask the calibrator to get you an SDR/2020 @ 2.4, because implementing HarperVision is trivial.

A deeper explanation: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-...r-s-thread-no-price-talk-21.html#post56675542


----------



## xpl0sive

Lithium said:


> The general consensus, which includes HT professionals, is that for best results, when paired with a projector, the 820 should be used to tone map and output to SDR/2020. The projector should be calibrated to Gamma 2.4... it's this part that is not trivial on the 5040. It requires a fine tune of the gamma curve plus edits to the CMS. If it were me, I would ask the calibrator to get you an SDR/2020 @ 2.4, because implementing HarperVision is trivial.
> 
> A deeper explanation: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-...r-s-thread-no-price-talk-21.html#post56675542


Thanks for this, although I'm a bit more confused now lol.

I thought the benefit of the 820 was it's ability to play HDR as per usual, but with the optimizer turned on.

So what would produce the best picture for 4K UHD discs:

a) calibrating in HDR/2020, Digital Cinema colour space, 'auto' dynamic range and HDR optimizer set to 'ON' on the 820
b) Doing a CMS calibration for Harpervision (and tweaking the rest slightly to suit my room)
c) calibrating in SDR/2020 on the 820, Digital Cinema colour space, 'auto' dynamic range and HDR optimizer set to 'ON'.


----------



## Lithium

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks for this, although I'm a bit more confused now lol.
> 
> I thought the benefit of the 820 was it's ability to play HDR as per usual, but with the optimizer turned on.
> 
> So what would produce the best picture for 4K UHD discs:
> 
> a) calibrating in HDR/2020, Digital Cinema colour space, 'auto' dynamic range and HDR optimizer set to 'ON' on the 820
> b) Doing a CMS calibration for Harpervision (and tweaking the rest slightly to suit my room)
> c) calibrating in SDR/2020 on the 820, Digital Cinema colour space, 'auto' dynamic range and HDR optimizer set to 'ON'.


HDR is just a monkier for content that is mastered with a greater range of brightness than an SDR image. However, almost every consumer projector on the market can't do anywhere near HDR's standard range of brightness. Therefore, projectors heavily rely on tone mapping which essentially takes HDR and converts it to SDR (and even more so when running wide color gamut with the digital cinema color filter). Manufacturers just call these projector HDR capable because they contain a tone mapper.

So a review of your 3 options are:

A) The Panny 820 first tone maps to HDR (500, 1000, 1500 nits) based on your player's settings. The projector then maps that HDR to SDR with Epson's internal algorithms. Some people like this, especially if they give up the full wide gamut color filter and run bright cinema for some extra lumes.

B) The Panny 820 first tone maps HDR to HDR at 1000nits based on the disks static meta data. HarperVison then tone maps that HDR to SDR mostly via a custom gamma and tricks the projector into using it's standard SDR algorithm to display the picture. This is a true hybrid approch and the one I personally use most of the time.

C) The Panny 820 tone maps HDR to SDR2020 using static meta data on the disk plus your HDR brightness slider setting (which according to Kris' comment in the other post I linked) can be set to your display's actual light output and be tweaked to taste. The projector doesn't have to tone map as it receives a native SDR signal. This is the only method that tone maps just once. And Panny's tone mapping algorithm is as good as industry tone mapping hardware solutions that cost thousands of dollars. This is why I believe if calibrated correctly this method could display the most accurate projected picture.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

Lithium said:


> HDR is just a monkier for content that is mastered with a greater range of brightness than an SDR image. However, almost every consumer projector on the market can't do anywhere near HDR's standard range of brightness. Therefore, projectors heavily rely on tone mapping which essentially takes HDR and converts it to SDR (and even more so when running wide color gamut with the digital cinema color filter). Manufacturers just call these projector HDR capable because they contain a tone mapper.
> 
> So a review of your 3 options are:
> 
> A) The Panny 820 first tone maps to HDR (500, 1000, 1500 nits) based on your player's settings. The projector then maps that HDR to SDR with Epson's internal algorithms. Some people like this, especially if they give up the full wide gamut color filter and run bright cinema for some extra lumes.
> 
> B) The Panny 820 first tone maps HDR to HDR at 1000nits based on the disks static meta data. HarperVison then tone maps that HDR to SDR mostly via a custom gamma and tricks the projector into using it's standard SDR algorithm to display the picture. This is a true hybrid approch and the one I personally use most of the time.
> 
> C) The Panny 820 tone maps HDR to SDR2020 using static meta data on the disk plus your HDR brightness slider setting (which according to Kris' comment in the other post I linked) can be set to your display's actual light output and be tweaked to taste. The projector doesn't have to tone map as it receives a native SDR signal. This is the only method that tone maps just once. And Panny's tone mapping algorithm is as good as industry tone mapping hardware solutions that cost thousands of dollars. This is why I believe if calibrated correctly this method could display the most accurate projected picture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Thanks heaps for explaining all that, makes a lot of sense now. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and get the 820 before getting my projector calibrated. I'll move the 900 to the living room


----------



## dataJunkie

*Image flicker on scene change*

Hi all,

Long time lurker and long time happy 6040UB owner. I have close to 2k hours on the lamp, so my suspicion is a lamp issue, but can I just ask to confirm.

Lately when watching movies, TV Shows, either via JRiver or Nvidia Shield SPMC App, or PC, the image seems to flicker as the scene changes. Only for a second or so, it goes dark (not completely black) and it restores to normal then and works away.

So would this be a tired Lamp? Or am I looking at another issue?

Thanks.

N


----------



## monkaquinas

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks heaps for explaining all that, makes a lot of sense now. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and get the 820 before getting my projector calibrated. I'll move the 900 to the living room


Color me interested in option C, as I have the 820 as well. I have been very tempted to throw Harpervision on my Epson with the 820 but not having any measurement tools...it'd be a hit or miss thing for me. Following your calibration with much interest.


----------



## avtoronto

Lithium said:


> HDR is just a monkier for content that is mastered with a greater range of brightness than an SDR image. However, almost every consumer projector on the market can't do anywhere near HDR's standard range of brightness. Therefore, projectors heavily rely on tone mapping which essentially takes HDR and converts it to SDR (and even more so when running wide color gamut with the digital cinema color filter). Manufacturers just call these projector HDR capable because they contain a tone mapper.
> 
> So a review of your 3 options are:
> 
> A) The Panny 820 first tone maps to HDR (500, 1000, 1500 nits) based on your player's settings. The projector then maps that HDR to SDR with Epson's internal algorithms. Some people like this, especially if they give up the full wide gamut color filter and run bright cinema for some extra lumes.
> 
> B) The Panny 820 first tone maps HDR to HDR at 1000nits based on the disks static meta data. HarperVison then tone maps that HDR to SDR mostly via a custom gamma and tricks the projector into using it's standard SDR algorithm to display the picture. This is a true hybrid approch and the one I personally use most of the time.
> 
> C) The Panny 820 tone maps HDR to SDR2020 using static meta data on the disk plus your HDR brightness slider setting (which according to Kris' comment in the other post I linked) can be set to your display's actual light output and be tweaked to taste. The projector doesn't have to tone map as it receives a native SDR signal. This is the only method that tone maps just once. And Panny's tone mapping algorithm is as good as industry tone mapping hardware solutions that cost thousands of dollars. This is why I believe if calibrated correctly this method could display the most accurate projected picture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Excellent explanation. Thank you. For options A) or C), if I set the projector's dynamic range setting to HDR1, I get a slightly brighter picture than if I leave it at Auto. Not sure why this is. Regardless, if we tweak the picture using only the player's HDR brightness setting, then should we leave the projector's settings at default, other than gamma and CMS adjustments needed to achieves a gamma of 2.4? Lastly, are there any manual adjustments that can be made to approach 2.4 or is this completely in the realm of the calibrator?


----------



## xpl0sive

Lithium said:


> HDR is just a monkier for content that is mastered with a greater range of brightness than an SDR image. However, almost every consumer projector on the market can't do anywhere near HDR's standard range of brightness. Therefore, projectors heavily rely on tone mapping which essentially takes HDR and converts it to SDR (and even more so when running wide color gamut with the digital cinema color filter). Manufacturers just call these projector HDR capable because they contain a tone mapper.
> 
> So a review of your 3 options are:
> 
> A) The Panny 820 first tone maps to HDR (500, 1000, 1500 nits) based on your player's settings. The projector then maps that HDR to SDR with Epson's internal algorithms. Some people like this, especially if they give up the full wide gamut color filter and run bright cinema for some extra lumes.
> 
> B) The Panny 820 first tone maps HDR to HDR at 1000nits based on the disks static meta data. HarperVison then tone maps that HDR to SDR mostly via a custom gamma and tricks the projector into using it's standard SDR algorithm to display the picture. This is a true hybrid approch and the one I personally use most of the time.
> 
> C) The Panny 820 tone maps HDR to SDR2020 using static meta data on the disk plus your HDR brightness slider setting (which according to Kris' comment in the other post I linked) can be set to your display's actual light output and be tweaked to taste. The projector doesn't have to tone map as it receives a native SDR signal. This is the only method that tone maps just once. And Panny's tone mapping algorithm is as good as industry tone mapping hardware solutions that cost thousands of dollars. This is why I believe if calibrated correctly this method could display the most accurate projected picture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk





avtoronto said:


> Excellent explanation. Thank you. For options A) or C), if I set the projector's dynamic range setting to HDR1, I get a slightly brighter picture than if I leave it at Auto. Not sure why this is. Regardless, if we tweak the picture using only the player's HDR brightness setting, then should we leave the projector's settings at default, other than gamma and CMS adjustments needed to achieves a gamma of 2.4? Lastly, are there any manual adjustments that can be made to approach 2.4 or is this completely in the realm of the calibrator?


From memory, HDR1 is the setting used by Auto (Bright), hence why you notice a brighter picture. Auto defaults to HDR2.


----------



## xpl0sive

One thing I forgot to ask, for those with an 820, is the HDR brightness slider a 'set and forget' feature or does it need to be adjusted for each disc? From memory, on the 900 it would default back to 0 everytime you put a new disc in, which made the feature useless if you wanted a 'set and forget' setting, especially if pairing up with a Logitech Harmony Elite.


----------



## Lithium

xpl0sive said:


> One thing I forgot to ask, for those with an 820, is the HDR brightness slider a 'set and forget' feature or does it need to be adjusted for each disc? From memory, on the 900 it would default back to 0 everytime you put a new disc in, which made the feature useless if you wanted a 'set and forget' setting, especially if pairing up with a Logitech Harmony Elite.


It's a setting that is saved between disks and can also be saved to a profile. I kind of misspoke when I called it brightness, it's actually called dynamic range adjustment. It can probably be a set it and forget setting for most people. I think I have mine set up a notch or two for HDR running HarperVision, if I go a third I lose some black level.

Kris also detailed how to set it for SDR2020 projector owners here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-...r-s-thread-no-price-talk-26.html#post56691050


----------



## xpl0sive

Lithium said:


> It's a setting that is saved between disks and can also be saved to a profile. I kind of misspoke when I called it brightness, it's actually called dynamic range adjustment. It can probably be a set it and forget setting for most people. I think I have mine set up a notch or two for HDR running HarperVision, if I go a third I lose some black level.
> 
> Kris also detailed how to set it for SDR2020 projector owners here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-...r-s-thread-no-price-talk-26.html#post56691050


Thanks for that. Seems like it's probably the best player for Epson owners. Do you know how it compares to the Sony X800? I have a friend telling me it's the best 4K player on the market.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> No because the benefit of this player is it’s dynamic HDR to SDR tone mapping and my settings are based on the projector receiving an HDR signal, not an SDR one. Now the question would be if the tone mapping of the 820 results in a better image than my HarperVision settings do. I can’t answer that because I don’t have a 5040 anymore. Maybe someone else that has one with an 820 can test it?
> 
> The HDR Optimizer is dynamic and bases it’s conversion on each title’s reported nits levels. My HarperVision is static and based on about a 1200 nit mastered curve.
> 
> What I can tell you is that the HarperVision settings I have for the BenQ LK970 seem to work better overall than when I tried the 820’s tone mapping, but to be honest I haven’t done extensive testing in that mode yet because I had to ship it out. I’m hoping to do so when the next one arrives.




The tone mapping is great Dave BUT like you said for your LK790 I my custom tone map better on the 5040. I do however love and use the 820 to scale the luminance values on 4000 nit discs and the overall peak if less then 1000 nits on 1000nit discs (like blade runner 2049). It makes 4000 nit discs look wonderful without requiring secondary settings and brightens up lower peak luminance 1000 nit titles nicely. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Wouldn't it be better to leave the player in HDR mode and use the optimizer? Or does it produce a better picture when converting to SDR?




I much prefer using hdr optimizer to the Sdr conversion. There is nothing wrong with the SDR conversion but calibrating out to 2020 with a gamma of 2.4 on the 5040 is a bloody nightmare. I have attempted it a few times and came away very frustrated. It’s the same issue I had with HDR tone mapping except even a bit worse. The CMS and gamma are so closely linked on the 5040 that it makes it nearly impossible to dial in the CG to near 2020 while maintaining an accurate 2.4 gamma. The projector wants to track closer to 2.6 with the WCG dialed in. When you try to correct the gamma red and to a lesser extent yellow and green quickly get very inaccurate. So I’ve decided it’s not worth the trouble since my HDR settings tone map wonderfully as is without the color issues. In other words (and to be frank) it’s not worth my frustration and 10-20 hrs of my life for a very minor picture quality gain that I’m not even sure will be there after I did get it locked in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

OrcusVaruna said:


> I much prefer using hdr optimizer to the Sdr conversion. There is nothing wrong with the SDR conversion but calibrating out to 2020 with a gamma of 2.4 on the 5040 is a bloody nightmare. I have attempted it a few times and came away very frustrated. It’s the same issue I had with HDR tone mapping except even a bit worse. The CMS and gamma are so closely linked on the 5040 that it makes it nearly impossible to dial in the CG to near 2020 while maintaining an accurate 2.4 gamma. The projector wants to track closer to 2.6 with the WCG dialed in. When you try to correct the gamma red and to a lesser extent yellow and green quickly get very inaccurate. So I’ve decided it’s not worth the trouble since my HDR settings tone map wonderfully as is without the color issues. In other words (and to be frank) it’s not worth my frustration and 10-20 hrs of my life for a very minor picture quality gain that I’m not even sure will be there after I did get it locked in.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


One more thing occurred to me today while out walking the dog...for the few that care or are curious about the forthcoming 4K discs that will have HDR 10+, my understanding is the 820's output would have to be HDR2020. Also, if one chooses option A, even if tone mapping occurs twice, the acid test is the resulting picture and I am hard pressed to see much of a difference between options A and C. I am not trying to be provocative, just passing along my observations.

Thanks Lithium, xpl0sive, Orcus, and Dave for your insights to help guide us through this tricky HDR world.


----------



## jbarteli

avtoronto said:


> Excellent explanation. Thank you. For options A) or C), if I set the projector's dynamic range setting to HDR1, I get a slightly brighter picture than if I leave it at Auto. Not sure why this is. Regardless, if we tweak the picture using only the player's HDR brightness setting, then should we leave the projector's settings at default, other than gamma and CMS adjustments needed to achieves a gamma of 2.4? Lastly, are there any manual adjustments that can be made to approach 2.4 or is this completely in the realm of the calibrator?


Do you have the latest firmware on the Epson, there should be a auto (bright) option in the hdr settings.


----------



## xpl0sive

I'm beginning to wonder if it's worth switching to this player, as I just realised if I put it in SDR/2020 mode, I would need to switch back for blu rays. This would be a pain in the rear, especially since I have everything configured through my Logitech Harmony Elite. Need a simple solution to program it into the remote, to make things easier for my partner when she wants to watch 4K discs or blu rays.. How hard would it be to add a macro to the Harmony to switch between SDR/2020 and Auto? Does this player have the ability to store presets?


----------



## avtoronto

jbarteli said:


> Do you have the latest firmware on the Epson, there should be a auto (bright) option in the hdr settings.


Yes, latest firmware. xpl0sive suggested Auto uses HDR2 so this is why HDR1 is brighter.


----------



## avtoronto

xpl0sive said:


> I'm beginning to wonder if it's worth switching to this player, as I just realised if I put it in SDR/2020 mode, I would need to switch back for blu rays. This would be a pain in the rear, especially since I have everything configured through my Logitech Harmony Elite. Need a simple solution to program it into the remote, to make things easier for my partner when she wants to watch 4K discs or blu rays.. How hard would it be to add a macro to the Harmony to switch between SDR/2020 and Auto? Does this player have the ability to store presets?


Yes, custom settings can be saved in Set 1 and Set 2, in addition to Standard setting.


----------



## gkman1

*noobie on calibration question*

Hello,

I've searched the forum and see tons of opinions on calibrating the Epson 5040UB. I'm using a Sony UDPx800 for my 4K player and am not happy with the results when watching a 4K movie....a bit dark and grainy. Can someone just send me a link to a page that has recommended settings fore the 5040UB that can be acceptable......I tried using the Dynamic settting on the projector which looks pretty good at times, then others, scenes can be too washed out....I appreciate any help with this.


----------



## avtoronto

Most use "Harpervision" or a derivation of it: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017


----------



## nielvm

Look 2-3 pages back for my “harpervision” settings


----------



## gkman1

nielvm said:


> Look 2-3 pages back for my “harpervision” settings


Thanks for replying....I set up my 5040 using Harpervsion with digital cinema....It was a major improvement, but a bit warm for my room....I then used Harpervison settings for Bright Cinema and liked that a lot. However, some of the whites and light colors are a bit washed out.....How can I correct this? Would I change the gamma settings or alter the brightness, saturation etc settings? If so, any suggestions? Thanks so much!!


----------



## Justin_Rogers

I know the harpervision settings are popular but I would advise everyone also check our Orcus's settings.. I know he uses Natural mode which doesn't engage the P3 filter.. Bit to my eye I very much prefer the Orcus's settings for HDR.. Regardless it relatively simple to save both configs to your memory.. (you will need to manually switch the dynamic range back though) 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## gkman1

*orcus settings?*

Would you have a link where I can find these? Thx much!!!


----------



## Justin_Rogers

gkman1 said:


> Would you have a link where I can find these? Thx much!!!





Here is a set of PDF's with all the current settings used by most here that Orcus posted about 2 months ago 



Also about two comments below that djmattyb posted an awsome PDF with all of them side by side on a single PDF.


----------



## xpl0sive

avtoronto said:


> Yes, custom settings can be saved in Set 1 and Set 2, in addition to Standard setting.


That's perfect, exactly what I needed. Placed my order this morning  Looking forward to setting it up.

The plan is to have the calibrator calibrate for SDR/2020 in addition to a REC709 calibration, and while he's here I will get him to do a CMS/greyscale calibration on my Harpervision settings, and will just use whatever looks best in the end.


----------



## Dave Harper

gkman1 said:


> Thanks for replying....I set up my 5040 using Harpervsion with digital cinema....It was a major improvement, but a bit warm for my room....I then used Harpervison settings for Bright Cinema and liked that a lot. However, some of the whites and light colors are a bit washed out.....How can I correct this? Would I change the gamma settings or alter the brightness, saturation etc settings? If so, any suggestions? Thanks so much!!



It’s probably washed out because it wasn’t tweaked, calibrated or designed for Bright Cinema Mode as I recall.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> That's perfect, exactly what I needed. Placed my order this morning  Looking forward to setting it up.
> 
> 
> 
> The plan is to have the calibrator calibrate for SDR/2020 in addition to a REC709 calibration, and while he's here I will get him to do a CMS/greyscale calibration on my Harpervision settings, and will just use whatever looks best in the end.




It would be awesome if you could share the values from your calibration! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gkman1

OrcusVaruna said:


> Thank you and here are the different settings I came up with 4K Blu, 4K 60hz HDR Gaming, HDR Netflix, and SDR Content. Let me know how they work for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hello there,

I set up my 5040 with these settings that you used with your XBOX S...I'm using a Sony UDP-X800 player....These settings did work the best for me out of all other trys.....However, for my room, some scenes can be a bit on the light side......Any suggestions on what I could do to tone down a bit of the brights without messing up the picture.....It just seems a tiny bit washed out....just want to add a bit more color to it...I wasn't sure on which setting to change....the Gamma or ???? Thanks for your help...much appreciated!!


----------



## sddp

T-MAN_ said:


> Looking forward to these but also another question regarding the screen... You are a strong proponent of grey alr screens. But how are they at an angle? I sit quite close up to the screen (around 9/10ft away) and have a large screen (135inch) so would the sides appear dimmer than the center of the screen or would it mean having to get a smaller screen? I had a da-lite white screen for a few years which now needs replacing so trying to see whether to get something like the elite cinewhite or their cinegrey 5d to go with this projector. I have white walls, white ceiling, and a window with full blackout curtains.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm in a similar situation. Have a 16:9 150" Cinegrey 1.3 and LOVE it! 
But recently took out side cabinets and now have way more room and have noticed most films are in 2:35 and have been wanting to go 2:35 while keeping the same height as my 16:9 150" that I have been use to (for films that are still in 16:9 and gaming) and looks like I have to go with a 175" at 2:35 and unfortunately Elite Screens does NOT make the Cinegrey 1.3 in that size :frown: 


They only have White 1.1 and Cinegrey 1.5. The grey gives such an AMAZING contrast and deeper blacks especially for darker films like Star Wars. And feel 1.5 in the grey world is WAY too much. My room is panted a dark color including the ceiling and at night it is pitch black. I've never used white so not sure what to expect if I go that route.


Any opinions/thoughts?


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> It would be awesome if you could share the values from your calibration!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Will do


----------



## gkman1

Not sure if my other reply went through....Sorry if it"s a duplicate.....

I set up my 5040 with these settings that Orcus Varuna used with the XBOX S...I'm using a Sony UDP-X800 player....These settings did work the best for me out of all other tries.....However, for my room, some scenes can be a bit on the light side......Any suggestions on what I could do to tone down a bit of the brights without messing up the picture.....It just seems a tiny bit washed out....just want to add a bit more color to it...I wasn't sure on which setting to change....the Gamma or ???? Thanks for your help...much appreciated!!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

gkman1 said:


> Not sure if my other reply went through....Sorry if it"s a duplicate.....
> 
> 
> 
> I set up my 5040 with these settings that Orcus Varuna used with the XBOX S...I'm using a Sony UDP-X800 player....These settings did work the best for me out of all other tries.....However, for my room, some scenes can be a bit on the light side......Any suggestions on what I could do to tone down a bit of the brights without messing up the picture.....It just seems a tiny bit washed out....just want to add a bit more color to it...I wasn't sure on which setting to change....the Gamma or ???? Thanks for your help...much appreciated!!




Try my newer settings using natural instead of bright cinema. The PDF was posted a few posts back 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

sddp said:


> I'm in a similar situation. Have a 16:9 150" Cinegrey 1.3 and LOVE it!
> But recently took out side cabinets and now have way more room and have noticed most films are in 2:35 and have been wanting to go 2:35 while keeping the same height as my 16:9 150" that I have been use to (for films that are still in 16:9 and gaming) and looks like I have to go with a 175" at 2:35 and unfortunately Elite Screens does NOT make the Cinegrey 1.3 in that size :frown:
> 
> 
> They only have White 1.1 and Cinegrey 1.5. The grey gives such an AMAZING contrast and deeper blacks especially for darker films like Star Wars. And feel 1.5 in the grey world is WAY too much. My room is panted a dark color including the ceiling and at night it is pitch black. I've never used white so not sure what to expect if I go that route.
> 
> 
> Any opinions/thoughts?




Get a sample of the 1.5 they aren’t that different and the hot spotting you typically get with the 1.5 at smaller sizes should be an issue at all with 175” screen 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

OrcusVaruna said:


> Get a sample of the 1.5 they aren’t that different and the hot spotting you typically get with the 1.5 at smaller sizes should be an issue at all with 175” screen
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You guys are talking about the Elite Cinegrey 5D, right? Some might say talking about screens is off topic but my question is in regard to the Epson 5040. Regarding how the 5040 projects does this apply/is compatible with the 5040 (stated in the Cinegrey 5D specs):


88% polarization retention
Angular-Reflective and Ambient Light Rejecting technology


----------



## OrcusVaruna

WynsWrld98 said:


> You guys are talking about the Elite Cinegrey 5D, right? Some might say talking about screens is off topic but my question is in regard to the Epson 5040. Regarding how the 5040 projects does this apply/is compatible with the 5040 (stated in the Cinegrey 5D specs):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 88% polarization retention
> 
> Angular-Reflective and Ambient Light Rejecting technology




Yes we’re talking about the Elite Cinegray 5D, which is compatible with the 5040. 

As an aside, I personally think screen match conversations with this particular projector are perfectly valid discussion points for this thread as a screen is a vital component of displaying the best image possible. The 88% polarization retention means reduced cross talk with passive 3D (not applicable with this projector) and the angular reflective terminology is highlighting that the screen material rejects ambient off angle light. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

WynsWrld98 said:


> You guys are talking about the Elite Cinegrey 5D, right? Some might say talking about screens is off topic but my question is in regard to the Epson 5040. Regarding how the 5040 projects does this apply/is compatible with the 5040 (stated in the Cinegrey 5D specs):
> 
> 
> 88% polarization retention
> Angular-Reflective and Ambient Light Rejecting technology


Well, aside from electricity and program material (and of course the quadratic equation of Harpers/Orcus settings) the screens is MOST important. 
I don't think anyone can say screen is off topic, since regardless of how perfect any settings are. You kinda need a screen to watch it on 

I have the 3D, and it is prefect and really set on it. But as I inquired in my previous post, I am going to a larger screen where only Cinewhite 1.1 or Cinegrey 5D is available. I feel the 1.5 is way too much. I thought about getting samples, but I would have to get half a dozen to make a larger square collage to really get a better idea since mine is 150" and samples are typically 11x8.5"

Wanted to see if anyone out there had a Cinegrey and went to Elite Screens White and what differences did they notice?

Did you lose out on blacks being darker as they are in the ALR greys?
Did 3D movies at least pop out better on the white?


----------



## gkman1

OrcusVaruna said:


> Try my newer settings using natural instead of bright cinema. The PDF was posted a few posts back
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for replying Orcus Varuna.......I tried the "Natural" settings, but the colors aren't vibrant enough when playing a 4K disc......I like your Bright Cinema settings except for me, the whites need toned down a bit and colors a bit more vibrant. If I could figure out a combination of your bright setting and the default dynamic setting, that might work. I don't have the experience with gamma settings, etc......Can you give me a few tips on toning down the whites and keeping the colors deep enough...I tried turning down the brightness, but that didn't help? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated....Thx so much!!!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

gkman1 said:


> Thanks for replying Orcus Varuna.......I tried the "Natural" settings, but the colors aren't vibrant enough when playing a 4K disc......I like your Bright Cinema settings except for me, the whites need toned down a bit and colors a bit more vibrant. If I could figure out a combination of your bright setting and the default dynamic setting, that might work. I don't have the experience with gamma settings, etc......Can you give me a few tips on toning down the whites and keeping the colors deep enough...I tried turning down the brightness, but that didn't help? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated....Thx so much!!!




It has to do with the gamma of that bright cinema setting you would really need a meter and hdr patterns to fix it properly. To increase the vibrance of the colors using my natural settings just boost the color saturation up to around 80. The colors will be over saturated in complete accuracy terms but will give you the desired “dynamic” look. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gkman1

Thanks again for replying so quickly....I tried turning up the saturation to 80 with Natural setting, but still wasn't happy with the picture. The bright cinema with the auto bright default setting seems to work pretty well for me too..Dynamic looks good, but has some slight yellow overtones...I don't have access to a meter or knowledge to test that....I have the Disney Wow calibration blu ray that came out a while ago, but I'm sure that's way out of date these days. Plus, after a while, it seems your eyes starting playing tricks on you.) Also, once you get one disc looking okay, another disc may look different......


----------



## avtoronto

gkman1 said:


> Thanks again for replying so quickly....I tried turning up the saturation to 80 with Natural setting, but still wasn't happy with the picture. The bright cinema with the auto bright default setting seems to work pretty well for me too..Dynamic looks good, but has some slight yellow overtones...I don't have access to a meter or knowledge to test that....I have the Disney Wow calibration blu ray that came out a while ago, but I'm sure that's way out of date these days. Plus, after a while, it seems your eyes starting playing tricks on you.) Also, once you get one disc looking okay, another disc may look different......


You can't use WOW for HDR settings. If you have a dark (light controlled) room, I would re-try Harpervision which uses Digital Cinema as it will give you a good colour palate. Remember to set the dynamic range to SDR when using it.


----------



## gkman1

Thanks for the update...I'll give the Harpervision settings a try again....To clarify, using Harpervision's digital cinema setting, do I keep the customized color temps at their default level.....??? Thx


----------



## avtoronto

gkman1 said:


> Thanks for the update...I'll give the Harpervision settings a try again....To clarify, using Harpervision's digital cinema setting, do I keep the customized color temps at their default level.....??? Thx


We don't have these settings so default or tweak to your taste.


----------



## irisheyes7

Hi, all. First-time post (but have been a lurker on this forum for about a month). I've decided to get the 5040ub. It arrives next week, along with a 110" Screen Innovations Slate 1.2 ALR screen. Distance from the projector to screen is about 13'. I get that 18mbps would be ideal, but there is next to no info on when the 5040ub replacement is set to arrive. Maybe they announce at CES '19, but even then, it could be a month to six months before they are available. Plus, I got a screamingly good deal on the Epson.

My set-up is in a basement with two window wells 0one alongside the projector, and one about 25' across the room). Not huge ambient light, but some. I have the following equipment:

AVR: 
- Denon AVR-S930H

Gaming devices:
- PS4 (older)
- Nintendo Switch

Streaming devices:
- Chromecast 4K (will this output in 4K/24?)
- Fire Stick 4K (because we use our Fire HD10 (current gen) tablet with our Harmony hub as a remote)

Remote:
Harmony Companion w hub (although we use a FireHD10 tablet as the primary remote-I sideloaded the Harmony app)

Any thoughts on settings? Looks like Orcus and Harpervision are popular here. Would they work for my room/set-up? Any others I should consider? Anything else you'd want to know become answering?


----------



## gkman1

Thanks avtoronto for the help...I retried the Harpervision settings ...This time I made sure I had everything as listed.....It looks fantastic for HDR....I think the problem I had previously were my gamma settings were incorrect...........I've found that the bright cinema (auto bright) works best for me with standard blu rays. I also found that the Ultra Premium 4k discs look the best ...such as The Revenant and The Martian for some examples......Thanks again for the help!!! Much appreciated!!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

irisheyes7 said:


> Hi, all. First-time post (but have been a lurker on this forum for about a month). I've decided to get the 5040ub. It arrives next week, along with a 110" Screen Innovations Slate 1.2 ALR screen. Distance from the projector to screen is about 13'. I get that 18mbps would be ideal, but there is next to no info on when the 5040ub replacement is set to arrive. Maybe they announce at CES '19, but even then, it could be a month to six months before they are available. Plus, I got a screamingly good deal on the Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> My set-up is in a basement with two window wells 0one alongside the projector, and one about 25' across the room). Not huge ambient light, but some. I have the following equipment:
> 
> 
> 
> AVR:
> 
> - Denon AVR-S930H
> 
> 
> 
> Gaming devices:
> 
> - PS4 (older)
> 
> - Nintendo Switch
> 
> 
> 
> Streaming devices:
> 
> - Chromecast 4K (will this output in 4K/24?)
> 
> - Fire Stick 4K (because we use our Fire HD10 (current gen) tablet with our Harmony hub as a remote)
> 
> 
> 
> Remote:
> 
> Harmony Companion w hub (although we use a FireHD10 tablet as the primary remote-I sideloaded the Harmony app)
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts on settings? Looks like Orcus and Harpervision are popular here. Would they work for my room/set-up? Any others I should consider? Anything else you'd want to know become answering?




My settings would work well for you as I run a Cinegrey 3d which is a comparable screen to the slate 1.2. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

Question for Dave (or anyone else who can answer). If I wanted to run Harpervision using the 820, what settings would I use on the player? Currently on my 900, I leave everything default. Would it be the same case with the 820? or is there a bit more to it?


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> Question for Dave (or anyone else who can answer). If I wanted to run Harpervision using the 820, what settings would I use on the player? Currently on my 900, I leave everything default. Would it be the same case with the 820? or is there a bit more to it?



I would leave it with HDR/BT2020 active just like your 900, but engage the HDR Optimizer so it can tone map 4,000 nit titles down to about 1,000 nits since my HarperVision is based on I believe around 1,000 - 1,200 nits for that model. 

I would also try SDR/BT2020 on it using a standard SDR setting with a gamma of about 2.4, just to see how it looks in comparison.


----------



## xpl0sive

Dave Harper said:


> I would leave it with HDR/BT2020 active just like your 900, but engage the HDR Optimizer so it can tone map 4,000 nit titles down to about 1,000 nits since my HarperVision is based on I believe around 1,000 - 1,200 nits for that model.
> 
> I would also try SDR/BT2020 on it using a standard SDR setting with a gamma of about 2.4, just to see how it looks in comparison.


Thanks, what about the screen type? Do I select Projector (500 nits), or the middle one which is 1000 nits?

and when you say 'standard SDR setting', what are you referring to?


----------



## nith

I got 5040UB in February '18, and I projected the image to cover a full 9' sage green wall. Amazingly, the projector renders the image very well during daylight or lights on (6-LED daylight bulbs), and it seems better than all of Carl's sample. Anyway, I use the projector as daily TV in the living room. I have always use ECO mode Bright Cinema, or ECO mode Cinema (movie). Epson rated the lamp up to 5000 hours on ECO mode. So far, the lamp life is about 2100 hours. This is my first projector. My question is when the lamp goes out, does it just die or blow up? 


sage green https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/4c/a8/a8/4ca8a8bfeaec3933d00b1e1eadda8a88.jpg


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks, what about the screen type? Do I select Projector (500 nits), or the middle one which is 1000 nits?
> 
> 
> 
> and when you say 'standard SDR setting', what are you referring to?



I would say use the 1,000 nit one, but try both and pay particular attention to the white highlight details to make sure they aren’t blown out. 

Standard SDR setting would be be the same mode that you use to watch things like standard HD Blurays, HDTV cable/satellite, etc.


----------



## welldun

Dave Harper said:


> I would say use the 1,000 nit one, but try both and pay particular attention to the white highlight details to make sure they aren’t blown out.
> 
> Standard SDR setting would be be the same mode that you use to watch things like standard HD Blurays, HDTV cable/satellite, etc.


Hello Dave,
question about this with regards to other UHD players such as the Sony ubp-x800 that I own. Are there any setting (if the ones mentioned above aren't available) that need to be tweaked in other to maximize the picture quality?

Currently outside of indicating screen size, shape (ratio 16:9), and 4k upscaling of non-4k discs, I don't make any other adjustments to the picture/video settings. The same can be said for my Pioneer SC-99 AVR, I have that so that it simply passes the video through without adding any enhancements. 

Just wondering if there are any other settings that should be adjusted in order to maximize picture quality?


----------



## Lithium

Dave Harper said:


> I would say use the 1,000 nit one, but try both and pay particular attention to the white highlight details to make sure they aren’t blown out.
> 
> Standard SDR setting would be be the same mode that you use to watch things like standard HD Blurays, HDTV cable/satellite, etc.


As I've advised before with the 820, people should use the 'Middle Luminance' setting with HarperVision. Using the 'Projector' setting will noticeably lower peak white brightness.


----------



## Azekecse

nith said:


> I got 5040UB in February '18, and I projected the image to cover a full 9' sage green wall. Amazingly, the projector renders the image very well during daylight or lights on (6-LED daylight bulbs), and it seems better than all of Carl's sample. Anyway, I use the projector as daily TV in the living room. I have always use ECO mode Bright Cinema, or ECO mode Cinema (movie). Epson rated the lamp up to 5000 hours on ECO mode. So far, the lamp life is about 2100 hours. This is my first projector. My question is when the lamp goes out, does it just die or blow up?
> 
> 
> sage green https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/4c/a8/a8/4ca8a8bfeaec3933d00b1e1eadda8a88.jpg


Usually you would receive a projector message. I run my lamp on medium mode which is rated at 3500 Hrs., I swapped out the lamp and filter @ 3200 hrs. On a secondary note thus far I have not gotten the fast startup, interestingly enough.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## antrantr

Azekecse said:


> Usually you would receive a projector message. I run my lamp on medium mode which is rated at 3500 Hrs., I swapped out the lamp and filter @ 3200 hrs. On a secondary note thus far I have not gotten the fast startup, interestingly enough.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


It will certainly not blow up or stop working due to hours.
If you wait so long so that you will get a message you have probably seen by your self that colors are wahsed out.

Washed out colors starts pretty early, but normaly you get used of slowly degrees of brighness and you will notice it as soon as you change to a new lamp


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks, what about the screen type? Do I select Projector (500 nits), or the middle one which is 1000 nits?
> 
> 
> 
> and when you say 'standard SDR setting', what are you referring to?




Try 500 ime it doesn’t blow out whites it just compresses the image to 500 nits max. It sounds like it would hurt the image but I find it just brightens everything thing up nicely that is lower nits (which is 95% of a film anyway) so I personally use that. I also find that it noticeably lowers peak white brightness which I don’t mind since I use autobright with my settings and not SDR like those of you that use Hapervision. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## T-MAN_

OrcusVaruna said:


> Dave I am going to be moving soon and have to take the projector down anyway so I might be able to take you up on that offer. What state do you live in? With my luck probably Hawaii or Alaska so shipping will be about $400 from Florida





Dave Harper said:


> Ding, ding, ding.....we have a winner!!! I am in Hawaii!  but ............
> 
> .......I get super amazing rates with UPS from my job so I can setup the label and pass the savings on to you and then you just pay me the shipping costs.





@OrcusVaruna Did you get to move house ... and send your projector to Dave for free calibration? Or is this still yet to happen?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

T-MAN_ said:


> @OrcusVaruna Did you get to move house ... and send your projector to Dave for free calibration? Or is this still yet to happen?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I did not take advantage of it lol. By the time I got around to taking the projector down I was in full move mode unfortunately. Then when I got to my new place I really wanted to watch the giants try and go undefeated down the stretch so back up went the projector as soon as I moved in. The Giants lost and I don’t have a projector calibrated by Dave. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## T-MAN_

OrcusVaruna said:


> I did not take advantage of it lol. By the time I got around to taking the projector down I was in full move mode unfortunately. Then when I got to my new place I really wanted to watch the giants try and go undefeated down the stretch so back up went the projector as soon as I moved in. The Giants lost and I don’t have a projector calibrated by Dave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Well congrats on the move! Screen looks good in all that light 

I would have taken Dave up on his offer but I’m based in the UK! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

I really can’t complain about my screen (Elite Cinegrey 3D) it’s exceptional for the price. I think I paid just under 500 usd for it, It actually might have been even cheaper at the time closer to $350. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gangolee

*Brand new 6040 acting up*

My most sincere apologies if this is the wrong area for thispost. I wasn’t able to find a particular section for my issue so I went withthe closest thing I could find. So here goes…we finally had a theater professionallyinstalled in our home this past Friday. On Saturday night I gathered the familyin the media room watch a movie and alas!!! there were issues. After about 45min to an hour of watching a Netflixmovie (in this case the Outlaw king in Ultra HD) white grains started to appearon the screen followed shortly thereafter by flickering and the short bursts ofthe screen going blank. The flickering would not stop so I just turned it offannoyed. I have contacted the installerson the issue and they suggested that I power down the entire system from the PanamaxMR4300 and restart but the issue persisted. I am waiting to hear back aftersending a video of what was going on. My current system set up is






Brand new Epson 6040
5.1.2 setup consisting of all Klipsch front andrear and Sonace for ceiling
Yamaha Aventage 1070
Sony UBP –X700
Nvidia Shield
Panamax MR4300
Control 4 controller and Remote 


Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how to fix this.





Thanks


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Sounds like something happened with your projector... Might be a bulb might be a power supply.. 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## monkaquinas

Gangolee said:


> My most sincere apologies if this is the wrong area for thispost. I wasn’t able to find a particular section for my issue so I went withthe closest thing I could find. So here goes…we finally had a theater professionallyinstalled in our home this past Friday. On Saturday night I gathered the familyin the media room watch a movie and alas!!! there were issues. After about 45min to an hour of watching a Netflixmovie (in this case the Outlaw king in Ultra HD) white grains started to appearon the screen followed shortly thereafter by flickering and the short bursts ofthe screen going blank. The flickering would not stop so I just turned it offannoyed. I have contacted the installerson the issue and they suggested that I power down the entire system from the PanamaxMR4300 and restart but the issue persisted. I am waiting to hear back aftersending a video of what was going on. My current system set up is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brand new Epson 6040
> 5.1.2 setup consisting of all Klipsch front andrear and Sonace for ceiling
> Yamaha Aventage 1070
> Sony UBP –X700
> Nvidia Shield
> Panamax MR4300
> Control 4 controller and Remote
> 
> 
> Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how to fix this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Could also possibly be signal breakup somewhere in the chain. I'd ask you to run the cable directly from the Video Source to the Projector for confirmation, possibly trying 2 video sources, just in case.


----------



## gene4ht

T-MAN_ said:


> Well congrats on the move! *Screen looks good in all that light *
> 
> I would have taken Dave up on his offer but I’m based in the UK!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Many people recall and relate to being in school and watching projected images with the lights off. And even now, many people talk about being in a "man cave" or "bat cave" when referring to projectors. Of course, the "best" projected image...blacks, contrast, etc. is obtained in total darkness. However, a perfectly watchable/good image can be obtained with today's projectors with a proper screen...even when there is a good amount of ambient light...as can be seen in OV's pix. The purists and even a few enthusiasts would "maybe" take exception. But even the purists and enthusiasts have family and friends who watch movies and sports on their PJ's and could care less if the lights are on...I think it's called "real" life! We AVS'ers strive for the holy grail and are sometimes isolated in our quest to obtain nirvana but the rest of the world...


----------



## Justin_Rogers

gene4ht said:


> Many people recall and relate to being in school and watching projected images with the lights off. And even now, many people talk about being in a "man cave" or "bat cave" when referring to projectors. Of course, the "best" projected image...blacks, contrast, etc. is obtained in total darkness. However, a perfectly watchable/good image can be obtained with today's projectors with a proper screen...even when there is a good amount of ambient light...as can be seen in OV's pix. The purists and even a few enthusiasts would "maybe" take exception. But even the purists and enthusiasts have family and friends who watch movies and sports on their PJ's and could care less if the lights are on...I think it's called "real" life! We AVS'ers strive for the holy grail and are sometimes isolated in our quest to obtain nirvana but the rest of the world...


I personally have a theater in my basement with light control, but also watch football games with ambiante light.. The thing is, I very much control that ambiante light and am still able to get a very good image.









Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Justin_Rogers said:


> I personally have a theater in my basement with light control, but also watch football games with ambiante light.. The thing is,* I very much control that ambiante light and am still able to get a very good image.*
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk



Exactly...the point in my post was to highlight the fact that it's not necessary to be in a cave to enjoy a projector. Although I have a PJ as well as multiple flat panels up to 65", I suspect many people do not consider a PJ because of misnomers of PJ light control requirements. BTW, I too have a dedicated and completely light controlled HT environment but from time to time prefer ambient light conditions...particularly when the entire family, friends, and guests are present...whether for movies or sporting events...nice to see actual faces and smiles rather than texting and emoji's! whoops!


----------



## Gangolee

Justin_Rogers said:


> Sounds like something happened with your projector... Might be a bulb might be a power supply..
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


Hard pressed to think its the projector but what do i know. Installer unpacked it in my presence from the box. Seemed brand new to me. He did mention it could be the power supply. I powered down and on again...same thing. 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


----------



## Gangolee

monkaquinas said:


> Could also possibly be signal breakup somewhere in the chain. I'd ask you to run the cable directly from the Video Source to the Projector for confirmation, possibly trying 2 video sources, just in case.


I too thought the same thing but i am no expert. I read somewhere that if the 4k hdmi cable was too long it could pose an issue...is this true? 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Gangolee said:


> I too thought the same thing but i am no expert. I read somewhere that if the 4k hdmi cable was too long it could pose an issue...is this true?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


When you turn on the projector does it attempt to come on at all? If it does come on do you see the Epson logo at boot or are you able to access the menu? 

If the answer is no to these questions you have some sort of power issue... 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## gkman1

I'm currently using a Sony UBP-X800 4K player.....Do you guys think the Panasonic 820 model would be a major upgrade in picture quality when used with the Epson 5040?


----------



## daddytc

Hi all! Just got my new 6040ub up on a 120" Dragonfly AT screen. I'm running an XBox One X (mostly for UHD, but do some gaming on it), a PS4 Pro (for gaming, duh), Directv Genie 2, Nvidia Shield, an Amazon 4k FireTV and a Marantz 7012 with a 5.1.4 (all in ceiling/wall Klipsch except for the sub) and I've been reading through page after page after page in this thread and just can't seem to get to something info that I need (and yes, I've tried using the search, but am a bit of a noob when it comes to forums and calibration).

Anyway, what are the consensus latest calibration settings for the 6040 for what I am running?

Also, I have a HD Fury Linker for the PS4 Pro, but can for the life of me figure out if I need to change settings on that as well (or how to even do it) because many of the posts were kind of old that I've already read so far. For example, when I plugged mine into my USB, the ReadMe file basically said to download the update file & remove the Fury. My computer doesn't even recognize it now in the GUI, so I don't know if that's it or if I still need to be doing something.

Thanks in advance for cutting me some slack for such a long post with questions that obviously have been answered before and/or if some of this should be in another thread.

Oh yeah and I'm on mobile, too, so wondering if that may be hampering my search efforts.

Thank you!!!

An


----------



## xpl0sive

I just got my Panasonic UB820 in. Only briefly had a chance to set it up, so no real thoughts as yet. I'm going to do some back to back comparisons over the weekend with my UB900.

Under display settings, where it asks you to select display type and you have 3 options, where do people get the nit information for these? I've read people say that the top one is 1500 nits, middle 1000, and last one is 500, but it doesn't mention this in the settings.

Reason I ask is that I want to set this player up exactly like my 900 but with HDR optimizer turned on, so I can run Harpervision settings with both players and see if there is any difference in picture quality.


----------



## patsmith19

Does anyone know what Epson's usual timeline is for updating projector models? I am looking at the 5040/6040, but it was new in 2016, so I am thinking that there will be a new version in 2019 since the model just below this (4010/4050 was updated this September. If there is a good chance that the 5040/6040 will be updated in 2019, then I might just wait for the new model.


----------



## gene4ht

xpl0sive said:


> I just got my Panasonic UB820 in. Only briefly had a chance to set it up, so no real thoughts as yet. I'm going to do some back to back comparisons over the weekend with my UB900.
> 
> Under display settings, where it asks you to select display type and you have 3 options, where do people get the nit information for these? I've read people say that the top one is 1500 nits, middle 1000, and last one is 500, but it doesn't mention this in the settings.
> 
> Reason I ask is that I want to set this player up exactly like my 900 but with HDR optimizer turned on, so I can run Harpervision settings with both players and see if there is any difference in picture quality.


As I also have a 900....looking forward to your findings, assessment, and thoughts!


----------



## avtoronto

patsmith19 said:


> Does anyone know what Epson's usual timeline is for updating projector models? I am looking at the 5040/6040, but it was new in 2016, so I am thinking that there will be a new version in 2019 since the model just below this (4010/4050 was updated this September. If there is a good chance that the 5040/6040 will be updated in 2019, then I might just wait for the new model.


5050 is expected to be announced at CES 2019. The European equivalent model has already been announced. See the thread in the projector forum '5050/6050 rumours'.


----------



## avtoronto

xpl0sive said:


> I just got my Panasonic UB820 in. Only briefly had a chance to set it up, so no real thoughts as yet. I'm going to do some back to back comparisons over the weekend with my UB900.
> 
> Under display settings, where it asks you to select display type and you have 3 options, where do people get the nit information for these? I've read people say that the top one is 1500 nits, middle 1000, and last one is 500, but it doesn't mention this in the settings.
> 
> Reason I ask is that I want to set this player up exactly like my 900 but with HDR optimizer turned on, so I can run Harpervision settings with both players and see if there is any difference in picture quality.


An earlier post suggested you select the middle setting when running Harpervision.


----------



## Maestrosc

gkman1 said:


> I'm currently using a Sony UBP-X800 4K player.....Do you guys think the Panasonic 820 model would be a major upgrade in picture quality when used with the Epson 5040?


Am also curious.

Am planning a dedicated Hometheater build, moving in to a new house in the beginning of january.

Trying to find a Panasonic820 is a pain in the ass right now, don't really want to be put on a list and potentially waiting until February.

Debating just buying the Sony x800, but am curious how much of an improvement the ub820 is, and if so I should be willing to spend $600 on it.


----------



## Gangolee

Justin_Rogers said:


> When you turn on the projector does it attempt to come on at all? If it does come on do you see the Epson logo at boot or are you able to access the menu?
> 
> If the answer is no to these questions you have some sort of power issue...
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


I can see the logo. Took pics of what happens as i continue to watch. One of the pics shows the grains that start to appear and the other for the flickering.














Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Gangolee said:


> I can see the logo. Took pics of what happens as i continue to watch. One of the pics shows the grains that start to appear and the other for the flickering.
> View attachment 2497194
> View attachment 2497196
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


Hummm when you see that can you still pull up the menu?? If you can is it also flickering, does it have grain? 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## Gangolee

Justin_Rogers said:


> Hummm when you see that can you still pull up the menu?? If you can is it also flickering, does it have grain?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


Yeah when it gets like this, i can still pull up the menu amd switch between devices. Even when u am not playing anything and just have it on the home screen for my shield for example, i still get flickering

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Is the menu a mess or does it look normal the whole time?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

Looks like a cable issue. When I switched from the 6040 to a Sony 285, I got pink sparkles, color blotches, and blackouts with HDMI enhanced turned on. This is about a 25' run. I switched to a 40' fiber HDMI, and everything fell into place.


----------



## Gangolee

Justin_Rogers said:


> Is the menu a mess or does it look normal the whole time?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


When the flickering starts, menu is a mess as well.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


----------



## Gangolee

roland6465 said:


> Looks like a cable issue. When I switched from the 6040 to a Sony 285, I got pink sparkles, color blotches, and blackouts with HDMI enhanced turned on. This is about a 25' run. I switched to a 40' fiber HDMI, and everything fell into place.


Thats what i was thinking as well but installer thinks its my Yamaha 1070 with the issue which i doubt.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


----------



## robc1976

Was a great projector, I am moving so losing dedicated theater so will be going back to plasma. Had fun calibrating this ptojector though. Great picture, great people in this thread.


----------



## robc1976

Not plasma lol OLED or UHD LOL


----------



## gene4ht

robc1976 said:


> Not plasma lol OLED or UHD LOL


LOL! Thought you still had an old plasma somewhere! Anyway...enjoy the OLED...what did you do with the PJ....and here's hoping you'll get an opportunity for a theater again someday!


----------



## robc1976

gene4ht said:


> LOL! Thought you still had an old plasma somewhere! Anyway...enjoy the OLED...what did you do with the PJ....and here's hoping you'll get an opportunity for a theater again someday!


I am selling it, new bulb and full calibration. New house will allow for 7.4 just not dedicated room that is sound proof or light controlled so selling the screen also lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

Gangolee said:


> Thats what i was thinking as well but installer thinks its my Yamaha 1070 with the issue which i doubt.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk



Have you gone into the service menu of the Yamaha and changed it to full 4K passthrough? I don't remember how to get into it, but it's in the manual and easy to find online.


----------



## Lithium

robc1976 said:


> I am selling it, new bulb and full calibration. New house will allow for 7.4 just not dedicated room that is sound proof or light controlled so selling the screen also lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Send it to Dave for a week for a new HarperVision/SDR2020 calibration before selling it?


----------



## marco1975

was wondering no fix has been out yet for the sometimes high speed fan noise issue on the start up of the projector?


----------



## gene4ht

marco1975 said:


> was wondering no fix has been out yet for the sometimes high speed fan noise issue on the start up of the projector?


To my knowledge, Epson has never confirmed/acknowledged that this is an issue/problem. Also, owners of previous models have also reported/experienced this occurrence. Lastly, an Epson tech rep I spoke with last year indicated to me that this is a normal occurrence but could not provide a plausible explanation as to why.


----------



## blipszyc

roland6465 said:


> Looks like a cable issue. When I switched from the 6040 to a Sony 285, I got pink sparkles, color blotches, and blackouts with HDMI enhanced turned on. This is about a 25' run. I switched to a 40' fiber HDMI, and everything fell into place.


Which cable are you using? I'm redoing our viewing room and will likely have a 32' run.


----------



## roland6465

blipszyc said:


> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a cable issue. When I switched from the 6040 to a Sony 285, I got pink sparkles, color blotches, and blackouts with HDMI enhanced turned on. This is about a 25' run. I switched to a 40' fiber HDMI, and everything fell into place.
> 
> 
> 
> Which cable are you using? I'm redoing our viewing room and will likely have a 32' run.
Click to expand...

https://sewelldirect.com/light-link-40ft


----------



## Dave Harper

OrcusVaruna said:


> I did not take advantage of it lol. By the time I got around to taking the projector down I was in full move mode unfortunately. Then when I got to my new place I really wanted to watch the giants try and go undefeated down the stretch so back up went the projector as soon as I moved in. The Giants lost and I don’t have a projector calibrated by Dave.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Well, since you’re a Giants fan and I’m an Eagles fan, I wouldn’t want to calibrate your lousy “Big Blue” projection system anyway, haha!!! 

Oh yeah..........Eli sucks!!! 





Lithium said:


> Send it to Dave for a week for a new HarperVision/SDR2020 calibration before selling it?



Great idea, I’m game!!!


----------



## rinse82

gkman1 said:


> OrcusVaruna said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you and here are the different settings I came up with 4K Blu, 4K 60hz HDR Gaming, HDR Netflix, and SDR Content. Let me know how they work for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Hello there,
> 
> I set up my 5040 with these settings that you used with your XBOX S...I'm using a Sony UDP-X800 player....These settings did work the best for me out of all other trys.....However, for my room, some scenes can be a bit on the light side......Any suggestions on what I could do to tone down a bit of the brights without messing up the picture.....It just seems a tiny bit washed out....just want to add a bit more color to it...I wasn't sure on which setting to change....the Gamma or ???? Thanks for your help...much appreciated!!
Click to expand...

What settings for non HDR 4K content? Thinking about my xfinity box for TV (mostly Sports) or non-4K Netflix and gaming content


----------



## Jameshtx

Howdy

So my pj is acting weird all the sudden n I need help. All I’m seeing is this whenever I turn it on. So far I unplug n replug cables but no luck. What could be the issue? Thx 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Jameshtx said:


> Howdy
> 
> So my pj is acting weird all the sudden n I need help. All I’m seeing is this whenever I turn it on. So far I unplug n replug cables but no luck. What could be the issue? Thx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That usually means you don't have a signal coming to the projector

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## Jameshtx

That’s odd. Even when it was working perfectly normal before, the signal can be loss? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

rinse82 said:


> What settings for non HDR 4K content? Thinking about my xfinity box for TV (mostly Sports) or non-4K Netflix and gaming content















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RichardPryor

TLDR: projectors better than a 75" OLED?

I'm all in.


----------



## Tristan944

gene4ht said:


> marco1975 said:
> 
> 
> 
> was wondering no fix has been out yet for the sometimes high speed fan noise issue on the start up of the projector?
> 
> 
> 
> To my knowledge, Epson has never confirmed/acknowledged that this is an issue/problem. Also, owners of previous models have also reported/experienced this occurrence. Lastly, an Epson tech rep I spoke with last year indicated to me that this is a normal occurrence but could not provide a plausible explanation as to why.
Click to expand...

Happens to me on occassion as well. I always assumed it was turning on high to blow dust out of the filter or something.


----------



## gene4ht

Tristan944 said:


> Happens to me on occassion as well. I always assumed it was turning on high to blow dust out of the filter or something.


Yes...a common occurrence for all owners. Why and when this happens (seemingly random) is unknown/unexplained by even Epson’s technical support personnel. It appears this occurrence is harmless and no relationship to any particular failure has ever been established. So, we continue to wonder and speculate as Epson leadership elects to remain silent.


----------



## Kubrickain

*Help with Warranty/ebay/won't power on*

Sorry if this has been covered but I'm trying to sort this out for a friend.

Long story short, she has a 5040ub that she was going to sell. I turned it on and the power light was blue but no produced no picture. The lens cover didn't open either. It was purchased on Ebay so I'm not clear if this would be covered by warranty. Her husband passed away recently so I don't have access to when it was purchased but I think it might be within the 2 year window. 

1) Is this most likely the power supply/board issue many have been having?

2) Is there anything else I can do to diagnose/produce a pic? (I'm familiar with projectors but not this one) Hitting the power button should open the lense/produce a pic even if it ins't connected to a source (tried both).

3) Can I call Epson on her behalf to figure it out if I didn't purchase it? The purchase, I assume , was under his name.

4) Does Epson's 2 year warranty cover Ebay purchases?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## xpl0sive

So I had my projector calibrated today, and I'm rather disappointed...

Done a REC709 calibration first, which went fine but felt kind of pointless as the Epson is fairly accurate out of the box and it only needed some minor tweaks. 

Then we moved onto HDR calibration, only a HDR calibration wasn't done. He said the Epson doesn't reach anywhere near the 2020 colour space, so he forced the player into REC709 so it basically converts HDR2020 into SDR709 and calibrated that way. His reasoning for this was that the Epson outputs closer to REC709 than REC2020.

This is the first time I've seen anyone do this with this projector and have never heard it. 

Overall, I just feel like I wasted money to be honest and should've stuck with the settings out of the box...


----------



## dimi123

xpl0sive said:


> He said the Epson doesn't reach anywhere near the 2020 colour space, so he forced the player into REC709 so it basically converts HDR2020 into SDR709 and calibrated that way. His reasoning for this was that the Epson outputs closer to REC709 than REC2020.


The Epson reaches 102% of DCI-P3 when in Digital Cinema mode with the color filter in place, which is the standard for HDR WCG. No current PJ or TV on the market covers 100% of REC2020. Your calibrator should do a new calibration for HDR in Digital Cinema mode.


----------



## xpl0sive

He's gone now (from another state), so there's no option to do another calibration. I tried to push for it but he kept saying it couldnt be done because basically the Epson sucked at HDR. Either he can't do HDR calibrations, or he's right and the results aren't worth it, but thats unlikely as I've seen plenty of people here do it. 

I'm just really disappointed and annoyed. I feel like I've wasted a lot of money for nothing.


----------



## dimi123

xpl0sive said:


> He's gone now (from another state), so there's no option to do another calibration. I tried to push for it but he kept saying it couldnt be done because basically the Epson sucked at HDR. Either he can't do HDR calibrations, or he's right and the results aren't worth it, but thats unlikely as I've seen plenty of people here do it.
> 
> I'm just really disappointed and annoyed. I feel like I've wasted a lot of money for nothing.


That's a shame because the Epson displays HDR WCG beautifully in Digital Cinema mode once properly calibrated. The only downside is that you'll have to run it in high lamp mode, which increases the noise from the PJ.


----------



## xpl0sive

At the moment I use my Panasonic UB820 to output in SDR2020, then use Digital Cinema with pretty much default settings for UHD discs. I was using Harpervision on my UB900 but this appears fairly close.


----------



## xpl0sive

Ok so looking at the settings he made for me, it seems he's calibrated HDR using 'Natural' colour mode, which is what a few have done here (Orcus). If this is the case, is there any reason to force the player to output REC709 since Natural mode does not use the REC2020 colour space?


----------



## dimi123

xpl0sive said:


> Ok so looking at the settings he made for me, it seems he's calibrated HDR using 'Natural' colour mode, which is what a few have done here (Orcus). If this is the case, is there any reason to force the player to output REC709 since Natural mode does not use the REC2020 colour space?


You can achieve pretty good HDR in Natural mode when feeding the Epson a full HDR BT.2020 signal. I for one can't live without the Wide Color Gamut having seen those gorgeously saturated reds. Here are some basic Digital Cinema settings that, depending on your screen gain, throw ratio and lamp hours, may or may not work for you. This is when inputting a full HDR BT.2020 signal.


----------



## gene4ht

robc1976 said:


> Was a great projector,* I am moving so losing dedicated theater* so will be going back to plasma. Had fun calibrating this ptojector though. Great picture, great people in this thread.





gene4ht said:


> LOL! Thought you still had an old plasma somewhere! Anyway...enjoy the OLED...what did you do with the PJ....and here's hoping you'll get an opportunity for a theater again someday!





robc1976 said:


> I am selling it, new bulb and full calibration. *New house will allow for 7.4 just not dedicated room* that is sound proof or light controlled so selling the screen also lol
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Your dedicated room was absolutely awesome! Hopefully, you'll have the opportunity to recreate a similar theater again. Just curious, although a bit OT here, but since your new config will be a 7.4, will you be utilizing all 6 RF-7 II's again?


----------



## robc1976

gene4ht said:


> Your dedicated room was absolutely awesome! Hopefully, you'll have the opportunity to recreate a similar theater again. Just curious, although a bit OT here, but since your new config will be a 7.4, will you be utilizing all 6 RF-7 II's again?


(2) RF7II'S FRONT
RC64II CEBTER
THE REST RB81II'S 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> So I had my projector calibrated today, and I'm rather disappointed...
> 
> Done a REC709 calibration first, which went fine but felt kind of pointless as the Epson is fairly accurate out of the box and it only needed some minor tweaks.
> 
> Then we moved onto HDR calibration, only a HDR calibration wasn't done. He said the Epson doesn't reach anywhere near the 2020 colour space, so he forced the player into REC709 so it basically converts HDR2020 into SDR709 and calibrated that way. His reasoning for this was that the Epson outputs closer to REC709 than REC2020.
> 
> This is the first time I've seen anyone do this with this projector and have never heard it.
> 
> Overall, I just feel like I wasted money to be honest and should've stuck with the settings out of the box...





dimi123 said:


> The Epson reaches 102% of DCI-P3 when in Digital Cinema mode with the color filter in place, which is the standard for HDR WCG. No current PJ or TV on the market covers 100% of REC2020. Your calibrator should do a new calibration for HDR in Digital Cinema mode.





xpl0sive said:


> He's gone now (from another state), so there's no option to do another calibration. I tried to push for it but he kept saying it couldnt be done because basically the Epson sucked at HDR. Either he can't do HDR calibrations, or he's right and the results aren't worth it, but thats unlikely as I've seen plenty of people here do it.
> 
> I'm just really disappointed and annoyed. I feel like I've wasted a lot of money for nothing.



Damn that sucks man. Did you ask him if he did a 5040 or 6040 before? I’m sorry you got someone like that, who seems to not quite know what’s needed and the possibilities. Did you ask him about my HarperVision? I’m sure he trashed it, not knowing what it is or the methodology and technique behind it all. 

My offer still stands to do a free calibration and HarperVision on a 5040 so I can get the CMS and Greyscale readings.


----------



## xpl0sive

Dave Harper said:


> Damn that sucks man. Did you ask him if he did a 5040 or 6040 before? I’m sorry you got someone like that, who seems to not quite know what’s needed and the possibilities. Did you ask him about my HarperVision? I’m sure he trashed it, not knowing what it is or the methodology and technique behind it all.
> 
> My offer still stands to do a free calibration and HarperVision on a 5040 so I can get the CMS and Greyscale readings.


Tell me about it Dave! I'm so frustrated. I did ask him if he done one of these and he said he has done plenty. His other customers must not be as critical as me then, or they simply have no idea about 4K HDR.

I did tell him about your Harpervision as it is stored in my presets and asked him to do a CMS calibration on it, but he just kept saying 'your Epson can't do 2020 colour, so we can't do it'. He said 'It doesn't do a good job of WCG so you're better off calibrating for REC709 instead'. He said it didn't matter which method I used to play HDR content, whether it was Harpervision or using the Panasonic SDR2020 conversion, it didn't matter because the Epson cannot do 2020 colour correctly, so he wouldn't calibrate for it.

He tried to explain to me and basically said that the Epson in 'HDR mode' only achieves a bit more than REC709, so if he were to calibrate in that mode the colours would be grossly undersaturated, particularly the green as it doesn't reach anywhere near where it's supposed to for REC2020 colour, so he calibrates in REC709 instead.

I said that sounded odd as I've read of loads of people online calibrating this projector for WCG with great results, but he didn't really have much to say. just wouldn't budge and I didn't want to be rude.

Is there any truth to what he said? I feel like I'm back to square one now, so with an 820 I'm trying to get the best picture possible on this projector. 

I wanted to ask, the calibration he did for me was done using Natural mode. he forced my player to output REC709. Is there any point in doing this, since Natural mode doesn't use the DCI P3 colour filter anyway? Can I leave the UB820 in SDR2020 mode?

I will say that the colours of his calibration look great in Natural mode, but for now I'm still using SDR2020 with standard Epson settings using Digitla Cinema colour mode, as I feel like I may be missing out on the benefits of UHD discs otherwise. If I simply wanted to adjust brightness and contrast using SDR2020, which test patterns do I use? The R. Masciola ones, or those SDR test patterns from a few years back (forgot the name)?

Unfortunately I live in Australia otherwise I'd happily send you my Epson.


----------



## caline

*50' HDMI cable recommendations for Epson 5040U*

I have a Samsung UN65JS850 4K Ultra HD Smart 3D LED LCD TV which as been great, but wanted a big screen movie night experience. After a long analysis, I decided to buy the Epson 5040UB projecting on a Elite ProAV Saker Tab-Tension CineGrey 5D 135", it is going to be a great Xmas!
I am also upgrading my Denon AVR to the new X3500H (although it is back ordered) for the latest HDMI support from all my sources: Xbox One X, Amazon Fire TV, DirectTV, BD, etc.

My real challenge is that I need a 50' HDMI cable = 5' from AVR down to crawlspace + 15' of crawlspace going back + 10' up to the attic (in 1.25" conduit + 10' in the attic to the projector. I spent over a week analyzing so many sites, including this great forum, and it looks like there are no good solution for a 50' 4K HDMI cable as we are all trying to push the limits of current HDMI 1.4 with 4k HDR, 3D, etc. which needs 10 Gbit/s bandwith.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI
https://www.cnet.com/news/what-hdmi-cable-should-i-buy/
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-...318-there-reliable-35-foot-hdmi-cable-4k.html
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-...d-blu-ray-long-hdmi-cables-what-works-16.html

So the choices are:

*1- Active / amplified / directional HDMI cable*
HDMI connection to boost the signal. Monoprice, for example, has some that use Spectra7 tech, formerly RedMere.
Monoprice DynamicView Active High Speed HDMI Cable - 4K @ 60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4, CL2, 50ft
Pearstone 50' Active HDMI with RedMere Chipset

*2- Optical HDMI*
like the Light-Link HDMI Cable by Sewell, 40 ft 4K @ 60Hz 4:4:4 HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2
or the FeizLink HDMI Fiber Cable 4K60Hz 50ft, Fiber Optic HDMI2.0 Cable, HDR, ARC, HDCP2.2, Subsampling 4:4:4/4:2:2/4:2:0 Slim and Flexible HDMI Fiber Optic Cable

*3- HDMI extenders over CAT6*
https://nerdtechy.com/best-hdmi-extender-cat-5-6-7-ethernet
like the Comprehensive Pro AV/IT HDMI

*Now who has experience here with a 50' cable to their projector like the Epson 5040UB ?*


----------



## inspector

I use this for my 45' run. Have had it for over a year now and no problems.




https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12735


----------



## WynsWrld98

inspector said:


> I use this for my 45' run. Have had it for over a year now and no problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12735


I just had one of those go bad after 2 years.


----------



## Azekecse

gene4ht said:


> Yes...a common occurrence for all owners. Why and when this happens (seemingly random) is unknown/unexplained by even Epson’s technical support personnel. It appears this occurrence is harmless and no relationship to any particular failure has ever been established. So, we continue to wonder and speculate as Epson leadership elects to remain silent.


What's really interesting is since I switched out my old lamp and put in a new lamp and filter I have not gotten the high speed fan noise (~200hrs.). Hopefully, I have not jinxed my self, knock on wood.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## ayrton

Azekecse said:


> What's really interesting is since I switched out my old lamp and put in a new lamp and filter I have not gotten the high speed fan noise (~200hrs.). Hopefully, I have not jinxed my self, knock on wood.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Ditto!

And my new OEM lamp fires almost instantly!!!!!


----------



## gene4ht

Azekecse said:


> What's really interesting is since I switched out my old lamp and put in a new lamp and filter I have not gotten the high speed fan noise (~200hrs.). Hopefully, I have not jinxed my self, knock on wood.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke





ayrton said:


> Ditto!
> 
> And my new OEM lamp fires almost instantly!!!!!


Hmmm...is a sample size of two telling us something Epson is not?


----------



## welldun

ayrton said:


> Ditto!
> 
> And my new OEM lamp fires almost instantly!!!!!


where did you guys buy the new lamp? Also, how many hours were on the old one? what drove you to change it? and was there a significant difference in brightness?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Dave Harper

xpl0sive said:


> Tell me about it Dave! I'm so frustrated. I did ask him if he done one of these and he said he has done plenty. His other customers must not be as critical as me then, or they simply have no idea about 4K HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I did tell him about your Harpervision as it is stored in my presets and asked him to do a CMS calibration on it, but he just kept saying 'your Epson can't do 2020 colour, so we can't do it'. He said 'It doesn't do a good job of WCG so you're better off calibrating for REC709 instead'. He said it didn't matter which method I used to play HDR content, whether it was Harpervision or using the Panasonic SDR2020 conversion, it didn't matter because the Epson cannot do 2020 colour correctly, so he wouldn't calibrate for it.
> 
> 
> 
> He tried to explain to me and basically said that the Epson in 'HDR mode' only achieves a bit more than REC709, so if he were to calibrate in that mode the colours would be grossly undersaturated, particularly the green as it doesn't reach anywhere near where it's supposed to for REC2020 colour, so he calibrates in REC709 instead.
> 
> 
> 
> I said that sounded odd as I've read of loads of people online calibrating this projector for WCG with great results, but he didn't really have much to say. just wouldn't budge and I didn't want to be rude.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any truth to what he said? I feel like I'm back to square one now, so with an 820 I'm trying to get the best picture possible on this projector.
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to ask, the calibration he did for me was done using Natural mode. he forced my player to output REC709. Is there any point in doing this, since Natural mode doesn't use the DCI P3 colour filter anyway? Can I leave the UB820 in SDR2020 mode?
> 
> 
> 
> I will say that the colours of his calibration look great in Natural mode, but for now I'm still using SDR2020 with standard Epson settings using Digitla Cinema colour mode, as I feel like I may be missing out on the benefits of UHD discs otherwise. If I simply wanted to adjust brightness and contrast using SDR2020, which test patterns do I use? The R. Masciola ones, or those SDR test patterns from a few years back (forgot the name)?
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I live in Australia otherwise I'd happily send you my Epson.



He is correct in that no consumer and almost all pro displays can’t do full BT2020 color yet. Although he’s using that as his reasoning not to calibrate your Projector to that, which is wrong. Currently the specs use BT2020 profile as a way of future proofing the spec for when they can do full BT2020. What they are doing now is putting the equivalent of DCI-P3 color gamut (used by Digital Cinema) inside of the BT2020 “container”. So what he should have done is set his color calibration software to the appropriate setting for BT2020/DCI-P3 and calibrated to that. This would give you significantly wider color gamut than REC709, but yes less than full BT2020. 

There was NO reason for him not to do this! The 5040 has a DCI color filter internally to allow it to reach that wide of a color gamut, as mentioned here many times. You have to be in the Cinema or Digital Cinema Modes for it to engage. You do lose some brightness with it in the light path though, which is pretty much why I came up with my HarperVision technique to bring the brightness back for better HDR brightness and specular highlights.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Found a pretty good article that walks you through the differences between REC709 DCI P3 and REC 2020... I am no expert, I just took what Dave Harper said in the last post and applied them to a google search


----------



## ayrton

welldun said:


> where did you guys buy the new lamp? Also, how many hours were on the old one? what drove you to change it? and was there a significant difference in brightness?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Bought from B & H New York, old one had about 2,000 hrs on it and it burned out/quit.

Display seemed brighter with new lamp. Original lamp never seemed very happy..

Happy Holidays all!!


----------



## xpl0sive

Dave Harper said:


> He is correct in that no consumer and almost all pro displays can’t do full BT2020 color yet. Although he’s using that as his reasoning not to calibrate your Projector to that, which is wrong. Currently the specs use BT2020 profile as a way of future proofing the spec for when they can do full BT2020. What they are doing now is putting the equivalent of DCI-P3 color gamut (used by Digital Cinema) inside of the BT2020 “container”. So what he should have done is set his color calibration software to the appropriate setting for BT2020/DCI-P3 and calibrated to that. This would give you significantly wider color gamut than REC709, but yes less than full BT2020.
> 
> There was NO reason for him not to do this! The 5040 has a DCI color filter internally to allow it to reach that wide of a color gamut, as mentioned here many times. You have to be in the Cinema or Digital Cinema Modes for it to engage. You do lose some brightness with it in the light path though, which is pretty much why I came up with my HarperVision technique to bring the brightness back for better HDR brightness and specular highlights.


Yeah I don't know why he didn't bother. I think later down the track I want to try get someone else to calibrate or buy the gear and learn to do it myself.

For now I've been going back and forth between Harpervision and putting the player in SDR2020 mode with the slider at +2 and Optimizer turned on. Can't really notice a difference between the 2. If I wanted to do a 2.4 gamma calibration, do you know what figures would get me close without measuring it?


----------



## jvorn33

Just got my 5040ub set up and love it so far.

What do you guys recommend for settings I have a Xbox One S and was going to run it through the built in calibration there.

Is there any way to get it to connect to wifi? I herd a dongle Epson sells might help that (forgot to run cat5e to the ceiling).

Has anyone been able to get the Harmony Hub to work with it?

Thanks!


----------



## ayrton

jvorn33 said:


> Just got my 5040ub set up and love it so far.
> 
> What do you guys recommend for settings I have a Xbox One S and was going to run it through the built in calibration there.
> 
> Is there any way to get it to connect to wifi? I herd a dongle Epson sells might help that (forgot to run cat5e to the ceiling).
> 
> Has anyone been able to get the Harmony Hub to work with it?
> 
> Thanks!


You will need the "Optional" wifi dongle to do this. Then it's pretty easy. This is mainly for connecting to your home network. Firmware still needs to be done via a zip drive in your USB port. 

I didn't have a "Hub" but my Harmony would work with this PJ. I've got large fingertips, so I had issues using the Harmony controller..


----------



## Tristan944

Does anyone have any good SDR calibration settings for BT2020? I can't figure it out. No matter what I do it just doesn't look right.


----------



## Juiced46

I am confused. Why would you want SDR settings with BT2020 which is HDR? That is why it looks funny. The only way to to make it look correct forcing SDR with a BT2020 signal is to use Dave Harpers, Harper Vision settings which is discussed in this thread a million times. The link is in Daves profile a few posts above yours.


----------



## xpl0sive

Juiced46 said:


> I am confused. Why would you want SDR settings with BT2020 which is HDR? That is why it looks funny. The only way to to make it look correct forcing SDR with a BT2020 signal is to use Dave Harpers, Harper Vision settings which is discussed in this thread a million times. The link is in Daves profile a few posts above yours.


Because he's probably using a player to output SDR2020, which is what I do. The player takes the UHD disc and converts the signal to SDR2020 before sending it to the Epson, which is just another way to skin the cat (an alternative to Harpervision). When I do this they look comparable to me, and I don't notice anything funny at all.


----------



## LonnieU

Hadn't seen this posted elsewhere, but this may push me over the edge to upgrade now from my HC-8500ub to a HC-5040ub

Free Lamp by mail-in on purchase of Home Cinema 5040UB or 5040UBe projector

Beside the projector listings on the web-page.


----------



## Dave Harper

Juiced46 said:


> I am confused. Why would you want SDR settings with BT2020 which is HDR? That is why it looks funny. The only way to to make it look correct forcing SDR with a BT2020 signal is to use Dave Harpers, Harper Vision settings which is discussed in this thread a million times. The link is in Daves profile a few posts above yours.




BT2020 isn’t HDR per se’. It is part of the total spec, but BT2020 specifically is a color gamut. It is in the same class as BT/Rec709, DCI-P3, BT/Rec601, etc. only much wider in color gamut coverage than those. BT709 is the color gamut for HD signals, DCI-P3 is essentially for Digital Cinema and BT/Rec601 is for old 480i/p signals like DVD, SDTV, etc. 

HDR and SDR are dynamic ranges and the levels of grey/Luminance (black through full white) and its associated gamma. 

You can have HDR BT2020, which is what is encoded on things like UHD Blu-rays and Streaming, but you can do HDR to SDR tone mapping conversions and still maintain the BT2020 wider color gamut for more intense and saturated colors as encoded in the original file. This is what SDR BT2020 is, and the Panasonic UB820 does it the best of all UHD Blu-ray players.


----------



## rustolemite

xpl0sive said:


> He's gone now (from another state), so there's no option to do another calibration. I tried to push for it but he kept saying it couldnt be done because basically the Epson sucked at HDR. Either he can't do HDR calibrations, or he's right and the results aren't worth it, but thats unlikely as I've seen plenty of people here do it.
> 
> I'm just really disappointed and annoyed. I feel like I've wasted a lot of money for nothing.


Was he an ISF certified, cause he was full of BS the HDR is awesome. Once the last firmware came out and made it a bit brighter I leave mine set on 2020 for everything there is very little that I watch that isn't HD or 4K anyway.


----------



## rustolemite

ayrton said:


> Bought from B & H New York, old one had about 2,000 hrs on it and it burned out/quit.
> 
> Display seemed brighter with new lamp. Original lamp never seemed very happy..
> 
> Happy Holidays all!!


Is this the bulb you bought just wanted to make sure, Thanks.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1289583-REG/epson_v13h010l89_elplp89.html


----------



## BlueWRXPride

Is there any consensus whether or not the power supply failure issues on the 5040ub have been ironed out or not on fresh units coming off the production line?


----------



## gene4ht

BlueWRXPride said:


> Is there any consensus whether or not the power supply failure issues on the 5040ub have been ironed out or not on fresh units coming off the production line?


Epson has chosen to be less than transparent about the PSU issue since its initial reported occurrences. Until Epson elects to break its silence, a PSU problem is anecdotal and pure conjecture. Bottom line, the consumer community has no way of knowing.


----------



## ayrton

rustolemite said:


> Is this the bulb you bought just wanted to make sure, Thanks.
> 
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1289583-REG/epson_v13h010l89_elplp89.html


Yes it is!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> He's gone now (from another state), so there's no option to do another calibration. I tried to push for it but he kept saying it couldnt be done because basically the Epson sucked at HDR. Either he can't do HDR calibrations, or he's right and the results aren't worth it, but thats unlikely as I've seen plenty of people here do it.
> 
> I'm just really disappointed and annoyed. I feel like I've wasted a lot of money for nothing.




He just can’t do HDR calibrations or more likely he knows how much of a pita it is on the 5040 and he didn’t want to invest the multiple hours it takes to get it right on the 5040. For example it took me about 40 minutes to calibrate my Vizio m series for hdr but it took me about 12 hours over multiple days to get it right on the 5040. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stereojeff

BlueWRXPride said:


> Is there any consensus whether or not the power supply failure issues on the 5040ub have been ironed out or not on fresh units coming off the production line?



At CEDIA 2018, I was told by a long-time friend and Epson exec that the power supply problem had been fixed. From the performance of my current (and 3rd 6040) I believe him.


Jeff


----------



## gene4ht

Stereojeff said:


> At CEDIA 2018, I was told by a long-time friend and Epson exec that the power supply problem had been fixed. From the performance of my current (and 3rd 6040) I believe him.
> 
> 
> Jeff


This information is appreciated and thank you for sharing...but anecdotal nevertheless. Your friend is obviously more responsible than the leadership of his company. Think about how consumers came to know this information...from an owner/enthusiast on an internet forum who has a friend at Epson. My earlier comments of transparency and responsibility were in reference to, for example, Onkyo leadership who *"publicly"* acknowledged a reported product failure, provided a remedy process, and extended warranties for those affected. This is minimally what should be expected in today's age of transparency of any responsible corporate entity.


----------



## umkay316

I own the 5040ube, having issues connecting my Klipsch rsb-11 to hdmi arc.
It only works through optical through the wireless he transmitter or Bluetooth through an optical Bluetooth transmitter.

I have a switch, cable box, and Apple TV (sound only works through Bluetooth, no idea why when my switch and cable box work through the optical) all connect to the 3 inputs for hdmi in the Klipsch. From there, I have the hdmi/Tv out to the HDMI input 1 directly to the projector.
I have no sound...

Thoughts? Or am I wrong that the 5040ube has hdmi arc? 

I’ve also tried running it hd wireless, where the hdmi put on the transmitter goes into the hdmi in on the Klipsch on all Devices connected to the hd transmitter. No sound?

Thoughts?
I’m basically trying to figure out if I upgrade my soundbar, how high end of a soundbar I could use...


----------



## Hal_M

Been reading through this thread., but haven't been able to figure out if there is a solution to the Netflix HDR thing. In my case, through the Roku Ultra the signal is now coming in stating HDR, but at 1080P. On my regular setting, the image is too dark. On the setting I use for 4K HDR Blu-rays, it looks washed out. I'm watching Jessica Jones as my reference. When I access Netflix via my Sony 800 4k player, it shows that it is receiving it as 4K HDR. But it still looks washed out when using my 4k HDR settings (which still looks incredible on 4K HDR Blu-rays). From my understanding, I shouldn't be receiving 4K and HDR at the same time from Netflix with the 5040ub. But no matter which signal - Roku or Sony - the image is washed out when using my usual 4K HDR setting. Do I need to create a whole new setting just for Netflix content? Honestly, it looked so much better when it was just 4K without HDR. Trying to figure out why Netflix HDR looks so different from Blu-ray HDR. Would love to know what options are open to me for Netflix viewing on the 5040UB. Thanks and happy holidays!


----------



## nielvm

I'm using my "harpervision" settings for HDR for some while now with great satisfaction.
This setting forces the projector in sdr and compensates by cranking contrast to 100, among a greatly adjusted cms and gamma.

I came along some movies that still looked too dark with these settings. I don't know why these movies are too dark, I would have to check the metadata to see if I can find some connection. So yesterday I did a calibration with the same settings, but the gamma stayed at "only" -2.

It's more difficult to get all the saturation points of the colors at the right spot this way, but the result is an extremely vibrant picture that really pops, without it looking oversaturated.

I'm really happy with this approach to calibrate HDR, to my belief it is the only way to really get out the potential of HDR out of this projector. This projector has so much potential for HDR, it even achieves a color gammut a bit larger then P3 (except for red), but it can be a P.I.T.A to find the right settings.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Ok so looking at the settings he made for me, it seems he's calibrated HDR using 'Natural' colour mode, which is what a few have done here (Orcus). If this is the case, is there any reason to force the player to output REC709 since Natural mode does not use the REC2020 colour space?



That sucks I’m sorry he did that. As @dimi123 said it’s absolutely a trade off as you gain lumens by using natural but loose in overall color saturation. Don’t get me wrong your pulling hairs with the differences as great hdr2020 simulations are possible using either with this projector. Also, since many of you asked I have been working over the past few weeks on a digital cinema calibration out to p3/2020. I will post them for you so you can give them a shot. I did calibrate to SDR2020 but still much prefer feeding the projector an hdr signal and using my own custom gamma settings. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

rustolemite said:


> Was he an ISF certified, cause he was full of BS the HDR is awesome. Once the last firmware came out and made it a bit brighter I leave mine set on 2020 for everything there is very little that I watch that isn't HD or 4K anyway.


Yeah he's ISF certified. He's correct about the Epson not doing a good job of HDR. The brightness output is just too low to properly display HDR (we measured it). Ever seen a top quality TV outputting HDR? Does a far better job than this projector.

I'm like you, the majority of the content I watch is in 4K, so I'm not even using his settings now which is sad. I usually do either Harpervision or I convert to SDR2020. What settings are you using?


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> He just can’t do HDR calibrations or more likely he knows how much of a pita it is on the 5040 and he didn’t want to invest the multiple hours it takes to get it right on the 5040. For example it took me about 40 minutes to calibrate my Vizio m series for hdr but it took me about 12 hours over multiple days to get it right on the 5040.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's probably this to be honest. Had I known he wouldn't do an HDR calibration I would have cancelled.




OrcusVaruna said:


> That sucks I’m sorry he did that. As @dimi123 said it’s absolutely a trade off as you gain lumens by using natural but loose in overall color saturation. Don’t get me wrong your pulling hairs with the differences as great hdr2020 simulations are possible using either with this projector. Also, since many of you asked I have been working over the past few weeks on a digital cinema calibration out to p3/2020. I will post them for you so you can give them a shot. I did calibrate to SDR2020 but still much prefer feeding the projector an hdr signal and using my own custom gamma settings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Curious, but why do you prefer feeding the player a HDR2020 signal? Do you have a Panasonic UB820 as well? Because the general consensus with this player is that you get a better picture on a projector when using SDR2020. Curious to see what you've come up with, although my environment is different to yours (dedicated room with black walls and ceiling).


----------



## TravisBean

So when is the successor to the 5040ub due out?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> It's probably this to be honest. Had I known he wouldn't do an HDR calibration I would have cancelled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curious, but why do you prefer feeding the player a HDR2020 signal? Do you have a Panasonic UB820 as well? Because the general consensus with this player is that you get a better picture on a projector when using SDR2020. Curious to see what you've come up with, although my environment is different to yours (dedicated room with black walls and ceiling).




I do have the 820 but personally think the tone mapping you can achieve through a custom gamma is better then what the 820 can do so I prefer an HDR2020 calibration and utilize the optimizer to enhance the image further. Also doing an SDR2020 calibration to a 2.4 gamma is NOT easy on the 5040. Trying to maintain certain colors (especially red) while hitting a target gamma of 2.4 is virtually impossible because of how the cms and gamma controls are so tightly linked on this projector. In contrast you are able to get around this issue with an HDR2020 calibration because the gamma settings are a moving target when approximating an HDR to SDR conversion on a projector. In essence taking this approach allows you to maximize color accuracy and fudge the gamma settings slightly to compensate. Finally my screen and room are different but luckily the Cinegrey 3D is pretty neutral and ime you’ll just have to adjust the red offset down a click or two and the and the blue offset up a click or two to compensate. Other then that all should be close enough to not matter much. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## djb61230

OrcusVaruna said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi - I'm not seeing this gamma UI with the "Color Tone N" on my 5040ub. Is this something in a firmware update that I missed? Or am I just not finding where this setting is in the menu system? Usually gamma is just in Image/Advanced.../Gamma. Or is this a 6040ub feature?

Thanks.

Edit - Ok, looks like I missed a firmware update - have *111_111.bin while *112_111.bin is the latest.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

djb61230 said:


> Hi - I'm not seeing this gamma UI with the "Color Tone N" on my 5040ub. Is this something in a firmware update that I missed? Or am I just not finding where this setting is in the menu system? Usually gamma is just in Image/Advanced.../Gamma. Or is this a 6040ub feature?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - Ok, looks like I missed a firmware update - have *111_111.bin while *112_111.bin is the latest.















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

xpl0sive said:


> Yeah he's ISF certified. He's correct about the Epson not doing a good job of HDR. The brightness output is just too low to properly display HDR (we measured it). Ever seen a top quality TV outputting HDR? Does a far better job than this projector.
> 
> I'm like you, the majority of the content I watch is in 4K, so I'm not even using his settings now which is sad. I usually do either Harpervision or I convert to SDR2020. What settings are you using?


Do have the latest firmware update cause it helped improve the brightness in the Auto Bright setting...before it was too dark to use the HDR but now I enjoy it very much.


----------



## Hal_M

nielvm said:


> I'm using my "harpervision" settings for HDR for some while now with great satisfaction.
> This setting forces the projector in sdr and compensates by cranking contrast to 100, among a greatly adjusted cms and gamma.
> 
> I came along some movies that still looked too dark with these settings. I don't know why these movies are too dark, I would have to check the metadata to see if I can find some connection. So yesterday I did a calibration with the same settings, but the gamma stayed at "only" -2.
> 
> It's more difficult to get all the saturation points of the colors at the right spot this way, but the result is an extremely vibrant picture that really pops, without it looking oversaturated.
> 
> I'm really happy with this approach to calibrate HDR, to my belief it is the only way to really get out the potential of HDR out of this projector. This projector has so much potential for HDR, it even achieves a color gammut a bit larger then P3 (except for red), but it can be a P.I.T.A to find the right settings.


I use Oledurt's digital setting for Blu-ray HDR and I love it. My favorite settings to date. But the Netflix HDR situation is something else altogether. Those settings don't work at all on that. I'll try Harpervsion as I also have that dialed into the memory. So far best to turn off HDR on Netflix if possible. Still trying to figure out why this is happening. Does the same thing happen with Apple TV and other devices? I may need to change to something that can take the 60hz signal. The Roku cannot.


----------



## djb61230

Thanks Orcus for those screen shots. Obviously I wasn't going into customize mode for gamma. I had previously only used one of the presets that got me closest because I had terrible luck doing a custom setting, so I didn't recognize the UI since it had been a while. Again thanks for taking the time.

When I've tried to calibrate HDR in the past I found that using the CMS was really wacky, luminance values way out of range (using Chromapure). However since I loaded the latest firmware today and recalibrated for both SDR/709 and HDR/2020 those issues have gone away. I have nice gamma curves now and the CMS just needed small tweaks to get correct. It was always fine for SDR/709.

Sweet.


----------



## old corps

inspector said:


> I use this for my 45' run. Have had it for over a year now and no problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=12735


Same cable here but 50'. NO problems!

Ed


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Hal_M said:


> I use Oledurt's digital setting for Blu-ray HDR and I love it. My favorite settings to date. But the Netflix HDR situation is something else altogether. Those settings don't work at all on that. I'll try Harpervsion as I also have that dialed into the memory. So far best to turn off HDR on Netflix if possible. Still trying to figure out why this is happening. Does the same thing happen with Apple TV and other devices? I may need to change to something that can take the 60hz signal. The Roku cannot.




No issues with HDR requiring different settings for me. I use an ATV4K for streaming Netflix and other services, a Pany 820 for UHDBR, and an Xbox One X with a linker for gaming. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## xpl0sive

OrcusVaruna said:


> I do have the 820 but personally think the tone mapping you can achieve through a custom gamma is better then what the 820 can do so I prefer an HDR2020 calibration and utilize the optimizer to enhance the image further. Also doing an SDR2020 calibration to a 2.4 gamma is NOT easy on the 5040. Trying to maintain certain colors (especially red) while hitting a target gamma of 2.4 is virtually impossible because of how the cms and gamma controls are so tightly linked on this projector. In contrast you are able to get around this issue with an HDR2020 calibration because the gamma settings are a moving target when approximating an HDR to SDR conversion on a projector. In essence taking this approach allows you to maximize color accuracy and fudge the gamma settings slightly to compensate. Finally my screen and room are different but luckily the Cinegrey 3D is pretty neutral and ime you’ll just have to adjust the red offset down a click or two and the and the blue offset up a click or two to compensate. Other then that all should be close enough to not matter much.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks man, I'll give this a shot tonight! What signal do you use? Auto?



rustolemite said:


> Do have the latest firmware update cause it helped improve the brightness in the Auto Bright setting...before it was too dark to use the HDR but now I enjoy it very much.


I think the firmware update simply altered the Auto and Auto Bright setting, so basically Auto Bright defaults to 'HDR2'. You're correct, it does get brighter, but I don't use Auto Bright, I use Auto, as it saves me having to change it when watching SDR content, and apparently Auto Bright blows out the whites.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

xpl0sive said:


> Thanks man, I'll give this a shot tonight! What signal do you use? Auto?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the firmware update simply altered the Auto and Auto Bright setting, so basically Auto Bright defaults to 'HDR2'. You're correct, it does get brighter, but I don't use Auto Bright, I use Auto, as it saves me having to change it when watching SDR content, and apparently Auto Bright blows out the whites.




I use auto bright for all my calibrations 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dimi123

Hal_M said:


> I use Oledurt's digital setting for Blu-ray HDR and I love it. My favorite settings to date. But the Netflix HDR situation is something else altogether. Those settings don't work at all on that.


Me too. I use Oledurt's custom gamma curve and calibrate from there. And yes, you need different settings for Netflix, as their HDR implementation sucks.



xpl0sive said:


> I think the firmware update simply altered the Auto and Auto Bright setting, so basically Auto Bright defaults to 'HDR2'. You're correct, it does get brighter, but I don't use Auto Bright, I use Auto, as it saves me having to change it when watching SDR content, and apparently Auto Bright blows out the whites.


Auto Bright defaults to HDR1 and Auto to HDR2. The Auto Bright setting has no effect on SDR content when Epson super white is on. It does blow out the whites on HDR content with expanded video range, but you can correct for that through gamma and contrast settings.


----------



## Fr. John

*Lamp help ELPLP69*

Anyone suggest a good place to get an original ELPLP69? I've searched the threads and most of the results are either old or not quite enough info.


----------



## dimi123

Fr. John said:


> Anyone suggest a good place to get an original ELPLP69? I've searched the threads and most of the results are either old or not quite enough info.


https://www.hcinema.de/lampen/shop.php?id=22302

They are based in Germany but deliver also to the US.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

dimi123 said:


> Me too. I use Oledurt's custom gamma curve and calibrate from there. And yes, you need different settings for Netflix, as their HDR implementation sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Auto Bright defaults to HDR1 and Auto to HDR2. The Auto Bright setting has no effect on SDR content when Epson super white is on. It does blow out the whites on HDR content with expanded video range, but you can correct for that through gamma and contrast settings.




Their base HDR streams are terrible but the static 12bit 24hz “Dolby Vision” streams they have started pushing to the ATV4K are wonderful and don’t require any adjustments. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddp

old corps said:


> Same cable here but 50'. NO problems!
> 
> Ed


How Depressing, 

On black friday in 2107 I bought:
Monster Black Platinum Ultra HD HighSpeed HDMI Cable (either 1M or 2M) on sale for $69. Normally around $119 or so. The package said 27.5 Gbps. Thinking I would be future proofed for a very long time.

Then I get a letter a few months ago I get an email to my personal email with my name (wow, how they got all that scares me, but oh well) from a Law Firm that I am part of a Class Action lawsuit about the Monster cables not being what it was advertised. Now you guys mention this cable where 25' cost $19.95? Great lol

I've always heard that Monster cable and all of their hyped specs is all snake oil. Well now there's proof in the pudding. 


"If you purchased a Monster HDMI cable with an advertised bandwidth exceeding 10.2 GBPS between August 25, 2011 and March 6, 2018, a Class Action Settlement affects your legal rights"


----------



## old corps

sddp said:


> How Depressing,
> 
> On black friday in 2107 I bought:
> Monster Black Platinum Ultra HD HighSpeed HDMI Cable (either 1M or 2M) on sale for $69. Normally around $119 or so. The package said 27.5 Gbps. Thinking I would be future proofed for a very long time.
> 
> Then I get a letter a few months ago I get an email to my personal email with my name (wow, how they got all that scares me, but oh well) from a Law Firm that I am part of a Class Action lawsuit about the Monster cables not being what it was advertised. Now you guys mention this cable where 25' cost $19.95? Great lol
> 
> I've always heard that Monster cable and all of their hyped specs is all snake oil. Well now there's proof in the pudding.
> 
> 
> "If you purchased a Monster HDMI cable with an advertised bandwidth exceeding 10.2 GBPS between August 25, 2011 and March 6, 2018, a Class Action Settlement affects your legal rights"


Hope you get your $$$ back!

Ed


----------



## AdamAttewell

Does anyone have a link to the latest Harpervision settings as I cant seem to find them in the 500 odd pages of this thread.

If someone can give me a link or post number I would very much appreciate it.

Adam


----------



## kevings

Hi, I'm looking for a little advice please from any resident 5040 experts...

I currently have a epson 5030, Yamaha rx3050, darby dvp5000, and Samsung blu-ray player (non 4k model). I'm considering purchasing the 5040, and a new 4k bluray player, and I'm wondering if anyone sees any potential setup issues or headaches? I dont think the Darby will work in a 4k chain, so I'm fine to get rid of it. The Yamaha 3050 looks like it'll do 4k with HDR, so I think I'm good there. I also understand that I'll need to purchase a new 4k player, so I'll probably look at Sony/Samsung/Panasonic for that. 

Generally, I like "set it and forget it" type of settings. On my current 5030, I use cinema mode, and so I'm guessing I'll probably do the same on the 5040. My concern is HDR (I've browsed this thread and it looks like this has caused headaches for many). Is there an HRD setting that I could just leave set to "auto" and consistently be able to get a nice hdr/4k/or upsampled 1080p image, without the image being to dim?

I have full light control, dont play video games, sources are bluray / cable / streaming via roku, and I'd also like to still be able to do 3d if possible, since we have 4 sets of glasses and still enjoy the experience.

Thanks in advance for any help I can get. (I can see from this thread that some of you guys have expert level knowledge when it comes to this projector). Lastly, I'm not really in a rush, and if waiting for the new 5050 is a better move, please let me know.


----------



## avtoronto

AdamAttewell said:


> Does anyone have a link to the latest Harpervision settings as I cant seem to find them in the 500 odd pages of this thread.
> 
> If someone can give me a link or post number I would very much appreciate it.
> 
> Adam


Dave has the settings linked to his signature. Just look for any of his posts.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> Does anyone have a link to the latest Harpervision settings as I cant seem to find them in the 500 odd pages of this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> If someone can give me a link or post number I would very much appreciate it.
> 
> 
> 
> Adam















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


>


Many thanks for that Orcus.

I presume everyone has super white turned on for SDR content?

I am going to give yours a go tonight.


----------



## jbarteli

OrcusVaruna said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


On your photo's the projector is set to digital cinema and in the pdf natural?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jbarteli said:


> On your photo's the projector is set to digital cinema and in the pdf natural?




Two different settings I have been working on a digital cinema calibration that I posted in the photos a few days ago. My original calibration was done using natural. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jbarteli

OrcusVaruna said:


> Two different settings I have been working on a digital cinema calibration that I posted in the photos a few days ago. My original calibration was done using natural.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok, I tried your new settings yesterday. I liked it alot! Thanx!


----------



## Fr. John

dimi123 said:


> https://www.hcinema.de/lampen/shop.php?id=22302
> 
> They are based in Germany but deliver also to the US.


I'd refer something domestic


----------



## AdamAttewell

I see some of these settings have nit ratings. I presume this is because different content is mastered at different levels, but how are you guys finding out what the content your watching is mastered at?

I see from searching that a few lists have been created but they are far from up to date so new releases are not covered.

I presume it is important to use settings that are relevant to the content you are watching?


----------



## Hal_M

seplant said:


> Looking back through this thread, there appear to be some owners who have been somewhat successful getting HDR to work with Netflix on the Roku Premiere + and/or Ultra:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd be curious to hear back from Kelvin1000 on the confirmation of 4K HDR at 24Hz. Was this with Amazon or Netflix or both? And where was the 24Hz shown? On the Roku or on the projector info screen? My Roku shows only 60Hz or 30Hz.


Been reading and my head's already spinning. I have an Epson 5040ub. I used to get 4K UHD via Netflix on my Roku Ultra. Suddenly, it's now telling me that I'm now getting HDR, but in 1080P only. Can't seem to get 4K UHD anymore. When I use the Netflix app on my Sony X800 Blu-ray player, I get both HDR and 4K UHD. Trying to figure out why Netflix on Roku isn't working. I know the Epson doesn't accept the 60Hz signal. Didn't used to need that for Netflix UHD. Did they change? And why is my Sony sending the full signal? Is that taking the 60Hz signal and automatically turning into 24Hz?


----------



## roland6465

Hal_M said:


> Been reading and my head's already spinning. I have an Epson 5040ub. I used to get 4K UHD via Netflix on my Roku Ultra. Suddenly, it's now telling me that I'm now getting HDR, but in 1080P only. Can't seem to get 4K UHD anymore. When I use the Netflix app on my Sony X800 Blu-ray player, I get both HDR and 4K UHD. Trying to figure out why Netflix on Roku isn't working. I know the Epson doesn't accept the 60Hz signal. Didn't used to need that for Netflix UHD. Did they change? And why is my Sony sending the full signal? Is that taking the 60Hz signal and automatically turning into 24Hz?



I have a weird issue between my Roku Streaming Stick+ and Sony VPL-VW285 where the Roku will revert to auto-detect resolution almost every time I wake it up, and it picks 4K/60Hz, which causes banding with HDR on my projector. Check your picture settings on the Roku to make sure it's set to 4K 30Hz, and it should free up the bandwidth to get the HDR through.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> I see some of these settings have nit ratings. I presume this is because different content is mastered at different levels, but how are you guys finding out what the content your watching is mastered at?
> 
> 
> 
> I see from searching that a few lists have been created but they are far from up to date so new releases are not covered.
> 
> 
> 
> I presume it is important to use settings that are relevant to the content you are watching?




Most UHD Blu-ray reviews on this site will list the disc peak and mastered nits information and some disc players will show you this information as well. Settings wise they really only come into play on the few uhd discs such as the early Harry Potter movies that are mastered at 4000nits and actually have a few scenes that push the max value. This is one of the reasons many of us use the Panasonic UB820 player because it’s HDR optimizer will scale these discs to 1000nits eliminating the need to adjust the display settings. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gruson

Ok, just got the 4000 and am really impressed. I honestly think it kills my Sony 65ES, even though I paid a lot more for it years ago. 
Tempted to get the 5040 now since it isn’t too much more. Curious what people think between the two, differences, etc. 
also tried a BenQ native 4K and wasn’t impressed, just didn’t pop like I hoped and text on dark backgrounds looked dull. Easily like Epson best.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Gruson said:


> Ok, just got the 4000 and am really impressed. I honestly think it kills my Sony 65ES, even though I paid a lot more for it years ago.
> 
> Tempted to get the 5040 now since it isn’t too much more. Curious what people think between the two, differences, etc.
> 
> also tried a BenQ native 4K and wasn’t impressed, just didn’t pop like I hoped and text on dark backgrounds looked dull. Easily like Epson best.




The 5040 crushes the 4000 contrast wise if you have the right screen for your room. But for color accuracy and image processing they are pretty much identical performers. So if you have say a white screen in a living room stick with the 4000. If you have a bat cave with a matte white screen or a light controlled living room with a quality alr screen get the 5040.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gruson

Ok thanks. I have 119” high powered gain screen in a dedicated room and the 4000 blows me away with bright scenes. It’s unreal how much better it is than my Sony 65ES. 
Just ordered the 5040UB after doing some research. Decided it’s worth the small premium.


----------



## Gruson

Also, the BenQ I purchased but returned was the 8500. It just didn’t impress me and I honestly
prefer the Epson picture quality. Just so you know, I would rate it below the Sony too.


----------



## Hal_M

roland6465 said:


> I have a weird issue between my Roku Streaming Stick+ and Sony VPL-VW285 where the Roku will revert to auto-detect resolution almost every time I wake it up, and it picks 4K/60Hz, which causes banding with HDR on my projector. Check your picture settings on the Roku to make sure it's set to 4K 30Hz, and it should free up the bandwidth to get the HDR through.


So I switched my Roku to 4K 30Hz and now the Netflix signal comes in at 4K UHD, but no HDR. Which is preferable to HDR but only 1080P! So thanks for that! When I choose 4K HDR 30Hz on the Roku, Netflix gives me HDR, but still only in 1080P. Still, my Sony X800 gives me Netflix in 4K UHD and HDR. But of course it's not as good a quality streaming device. 

Looking like I will have to upgrade to either Apple TV 4K or Nvidia Shield. Am I correct in understanding that both those devices will turn a 60Hz signal into 24Hz? Is one device better than another? Pros/cons?


----------



## westbergjoakim

nielvm said:


> I'm using my "harpervision" settings for HDR for some while now with great satisfaction.
> 
> This setting forces the projector in sdr and compensates by cranking contrast to 100, among a greatly adjusted cms and gamma.
> 
> 
> 
> I came along some movies that still looked too dark with these settings. I don't know why these movies are too dark, I would have to check the metadata to see if I can find some connection. So yesterday I did a calibration with the same settings, but the gamma stayed at "only" -2.
> 
> 
> 
> It's more difficult to get all the saturation points of the colors at the right spot this way, but the result is an extremely vibrant picture that really pops, without it looking oversaturated.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with this approach to calibrate HDR, to my belief it is the only way to really get out the potential of HDR out of this projector. This projector has so much potential for HDR, it even achieves a color gammut a bit larger then P3 (except for red), but it can be a P.I.T.A to find the right settings.


Are you using gamma -2 instead of the custom now? I'm very happy with yours and HarperVision with HDR. The 2 best out there of all I have tried (most of the known in this thread). What screen are you using btw?

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


> Most UHD Blu-ray reviews on this site will list the disc peak and mastered nits information and some disc players will show you this information as well. Settings wise they really only come into play on the few uhd discs such as the early Harry Potter movies that are mastered at 4000nits and actually have a few scenes that push the max value. This is one of the reasons many of us use the Panasonic UB820 player because it’s HDR optimizer will scale these discs to 1000nits eliminating the need to adjust the display settings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Many thanks for the info Orcus, I have the Panny UB820 player. 



Would you say using the optimizer is better than using the customized gamma curves that you guys have worked so hard to create? 



I think I am right in saying you cant use the optimizer with Harpervision because you are basically using your display as if it was only SDR capable? I am not sure if it is possible to use it with your settings?



I have tried Harpervison & am very impressed with the brightness over the standard HDR modes but I have read in more recent posts that the optimizer should do a better job because it is dynamic? I am still yet to play around with the dynamic range adjustment setting also included with the UB820.



One other question, what are you guys doing in regard to content at 60Hz? I know the HDMI chipset Epson used is not capable of handling 4K, BT.2020, HDR @ 60Hz, this is not an issue with movies as most are 24Hz but content from Amazon Video & Netflix are an issue.


I have a Nvidia Shield & am able to select different HDMI modes, 4K,BT.2020,HDR @ 30Hz is the highest I can go & which I presume is the limit of the HDMI chipset but motion seems a little laggy/stuttered. 



Is this the best I can do or can I do anything else to improve the situation? I have a HDFury Integral if that helps?


----------



## AdamAttewell

Hal_M said:


> So I switched my Roku to 4K 30Hz and now the Netflix signal comes in at 4K UHD, but no HDR. Which is preferable to HDR but only 1080P! So thanks for that! When I choose 4K HDR 30Hz on the Roku, Netflix gives me HDR, but still only in 1080P. Still, my Sony X800 gives me Netflix in 4K UHD and HDR. But of course it's not as good a quality streaming device.
> 
> Looking like I will have to upgrade to either Apple TV 4K or Nvidia Shield. Am I correct in understanding that both those devices will turn a 60Hz signal into 24Hz? Is one device better than another? Pros/cons?



I cant say anything about the Apple TV 4K as I have never owned one but I have the Nvidia Shield & can say that you can select to output 4K, BT.2020, HDR @ 30Hz. I also like that its super fast at loading menus & video which makes it a pleasure to use. Works great the my Logitech Harmony as well.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> Many thanks for the info Orcus, I have the Panny UB820 player.
> 
> 
> 
> Would you say using the optimizer is better than using the customized gamma curves that you guys have worked so hard to create?
> 
> 
> 
> I think I am right in saying you cant use the optimizer with Harpervision because you are basically using your display as if it was only SDR capable? I am not sure if it is possible to use it with your settings?
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried Harpervison & am very impressed with the brightness over the standard HDR modes but I have read in more recent posts that the optimizer should do a better job because it is dynamic? I am still yet to play around with the dynamic range adjustment setting also included with the UB820.
> 
> 
> 
> One other question, what are you guys doing in regard to content at 60Hz? I know the HDMI chipset Epson used is not capable of handling 4K, BT.2020, HDR @ 60Hz, this is not an issue with movies as most are 24Hz but content from Amazon Video & Netflix are an issue.
> 
> 
> I have a Nvidia Shield & am able to select different HDMI modes, 4K,BT.2020,HDR @ 30Hz is the highest I can go & which I presume is the limit of the HDMI chipset but motion seems a little laggy/stuttered.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this the best I can do or can I do anything else to improve the situation? I have a HDFury Integral if that helps?




My settings do a great job as is but you can use optimizer with my setting as optimizer works in conjunction with the custom gamma curves. I prefer using my custom curves and the ub’s optimizer to make 4000 nit discs watchable with no changes to the settings and to brighten up discs such as Blade Runner 2049. The other approach is to have the player convert the image to SDR2020 before being sent to the projector. In this case you would use a setting with a standard gamma of 2.4. 

Also, don’t let Dave’s use of “SDR” fool you. With his settings you are still feeding the projector an HDR2020 signal your just telling the projector to use it’s SDR tone mapping as it’s starting point for the settings instead of auto bright or auto. For your final question if you want to play 10bit 60hz hdr feed the signal through your integral to convert it to an 8bit 60hz hdr signal which the 5040’s chipset can accept. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


> My settings do a great job as is but you can use optimizer with my setting as optimizer works in conjunction with the custom gamma curves. I prefer using my custom curves and the ub’s optimizer to make 4000 nit discs watchable with no changes to the settings and to brighten up discs such as Blade Runner 2049. The other approach is to have the player convert the image to SDR2020 before being sent to the projector. In this case you would use a setting with a standard gamma of 2.4.
> 
> Also, don’t let Dave’s use of “SDR” fool you. With his settings you are still feeding the projector an HDR2020 signal your just telling the projector to use it’s SDR tone mapping as it’s starting point for the settings instead of auto bright or auto. For your final question if you want to play 10bit 60hz hdr feed the signal through your integral to convert it to an 8bit 60hz hdr signal which the 5040’s chipset can accept.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Many thanks for all the info, I have just finished a basic calibration of SDR & to get a gamma close to 2.4 I had to use the -2 option is this normal?


Yeah I agree the less settings I have to change between discs the better as I will probably end up forgetting thats one of the reasons Dave's settings are appealing as just a colour mode switch between SDR & HDR.


Do you use the Dynamic Range Adjustment slider on the Panasonic? So using a custom gamma curve, the optimizer & the Dynamic Range Adjustment slider will glean the best result?


I read that using Masciola's hdr10 uhd test patterns is a good way to dial in your HDR cal but I have no idea where to start with it. I have CalMAN a spectro & colourimeter but I guess these are useless for HDR? 



I use a Lumagen as my pattern genrator but seeing as this only supports SDR the only way I can think to use this for HDR is to use the Integral to force the display into HDR mode while displaying the test patterns.



I presume using the Integral to strip 8bit to 10bit mean you lose the extended colour gamut but game the extra 30Hz?


----------



## Lithium

AdamAttewell said:


> I think I am right in saying you cant use the optimizer with Harpervision because you are basically using your display as if it was only SDR capable? I am not sure if it is possible to use it with your settings?


You can and should use the HDR Optimizer with HarperVision. HarperVision is calibrated to around 1100nits. By using the Middle Luminance display setting on the 820 it will tone map HDR content to 1000nits.


----------



## nielvm

westbergjoakim said:


> Are you using gamma -2 instead of the custom now? I'm very happy with yours and HarperVision with HDR. The 2 best out there of all I have tried (most of the known in this thread). What screen are you using btw?
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


Yes, but the calibration needs a lot different tuning on the cms then. I'm still tuning it a bit, but currently I prefer it on a big amount of material over the previous calibration with a custom gamma.
This new callibration is Very bright (xyscreen soundmax of 280cm wide), even compared to my previous settings, which are very bright compared to the standard (digital) cinema with hdr1 mode.


----------



## AdamAttewell

I have to say Orcus I really like your settings, they really do give you that HDR effect. Only thing for me is whites seem a little green so I decided to adjust the two point greyscale to see if I can get it any better for my unit. RGBCMY is set at defaults.



Never have calibrated HDR on a projector so I have no clue if these results are expected or are out of the window.


----------



## Dave Harper

AdamAttewell said:


> Many thanks for the info Orcus, I have the Panny UB820 player.
> 
> 
> 
> Would you say using the optimizer is better than using the customized gamma curves that you guys have worked so hard to create?
> 
> 
> 
> I think I am right in saying you cant use the optimizer with Harpervision because you are basically using your display as if it was only SDR capable? I am not sure if it is possible to use it with your settings?
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried Harpervison & am very impressed with the brightness over the standard HDR modes but I have read in more recent posts that the optimizer should do a better job because it is dynamic? I am still yet to play around with the dynamic range adjustment setting also included with the UB820.
> 
> 
> 
> One other question, what are you guys doing in regard to content at 60Hz? I know the HDMI chipset Epson used is not capable of handling 4K, BT.2020, HDR @ 60Hz, this is not an issue with movies as most are 24Hz but content from Amazon Video & Netflix are an issue.
> 
> 
> I have a Nvidia Shield & am able to select different HDMI modes, 4K,BT.2020,HDR @ 30Hz is the highest I can go & which I presume is the limit of the HDMI chipset but motion seems a little laggy/stuttered.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this the best I can do or can I do anything else to improve the situation? I have a HDFury Integral if that helps?






Lithium said:


> You can and should use the HDR Optimizer with HarperVision. HarperVision is calibrated to around 1100nits. By using the Middle Luminance display setting on the 820 it will tone map HDR content to 1000nits.



Yeah, what Lithium said!!!


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> I have to say Orcus I really like your settings, they really do give you that HDR effect. Only thing for me is whites seem a little green so I decided to adjust the two point greyscale to see if I can get it any better for my unit. RGBCMY is set at defaults.
> 
> 
> 
> Never have calibrated HDR on a projector so I have no clue if these results are expected or are out of the window.




The extra green is to be expected as I use an alr screen which is pretty neutral for an alr but does have a noticeable blue push. You can take care of this for the most part by messing with the color temp offsets. Sure you can get crazy and redo the whole temp and cms settings but I find the offsets will correct the color pushes of the screen with the least impact to the other settings, giving you a more then satisfactory resultant image. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jordanfff

OrcusVaruna said:


> Two different settings I have been working on a digital cinema calibration that I posted in the photos a few days ago. My original calibration was done using natural.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi Orcus,in your new digital cinema settings is super white on or off and how does it compare with your previous Natural settings.Thanks


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jordanfff said:


> Hi Orcus,in your new digital cinema settings is super white on or off and how does it compare with your previous Natural settings.Thanks




Superwhite is on and it’s very similar to the natural settings but with richer reds and better black levels. The downside is you loose some of that bright scene hdr wow factor since it puts significantly less lumens on your screen. With that in mind I have been using digital cinema for more story driven movies, movies with lots of dark scenes (like gravity, Star Wars, blade runner, etc.) and tv shows. Natural is my go to for gaming and super hero flicks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


> The extra green is to be expected as I use an alr screen which is pretty neutral for an alr but does have a noticeable blue push. You can take care of this for the most part by messing with the color temp offsets. Sure you can get crazy and redo the whole temp and cms settings but I find the offsets will correct the color pushes of the screen with the least impact to the other settings, giving you a more then satisfactory resultant image.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 The readings above are with them left at default. To be honest I am in no way competent enough to be messing around in the CMS, I get myself into enough trouble with the two point grayscale adjustment


I have spent the last couple of hours playing with the two point grayscale control trying to tame the green but I feel I am making things worst. Should I be doing this by eye or with a meter?


I dont see your Digital Cinema settings on the graph you posted, where can I find them. I would love to try them out.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Lithium said:


> You can and should use the HDR Optimizer with HarperVision. HarperVision is calibrated to around 1100nits. By using the Middle Luminance display setting on the 820 it will tone map HDR content to 1000nits.



Just to be clear are you refering to the Dynamic Range Adjustment silder on the Panasonic as I see there is also a Luminance control also in the options menu when playing back content.


----------



## evilmonstertruk

Wonder how the 4010 measures up to the 5040.

Anyone have any experience with the 4010

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk


----------



## Justin_Rogers

evilmonstertruk said:


> Wonder how the 4010 measures up to the 5040.
> 
> Anyone have any experience with the 4010
> 
> Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk


Projector Central already did a very well written comparison... You might want to check it out 

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-4010-vs-5040.htm

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lithium

AdamAttewell said:


> Just to be clear are you refering to the Dynamic Range Adjustment silder on the Panasonic as I see there is also a Luminance control also in the options menu when playing back content.


I'm referring to setting the display type. There are a couple of options to choose from and if you are using HarperVision you should not pick the Projector type. Instead you should select the Middle Luminance display type. The reason for this is because Projector will map to 500nits and Middle Luminance will map to 1000nits. HarperVision is calibrated to 1100nits, so with display type set to 'Projector' you will potentially lose a significant amount of peak white brightness.

The Dynamic Range slider is different and can be tweaked to preference. I believe I set it two clicks just to get a few extra bits of detail in the blacks. My tip: use the opening scene in The Matrix with the cell phone trace, you should be able to see a very faint 'code crawl/noise' behind the flashing green numbers.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Lithium said:


> I'm referring to setting the display type. There are a couple of options to choose from and if you are using HarperVision you should not pick the Projector type. Instead you should select the Middle Luminance display type. The reason for this is because Projector will map to 500nits and Middle Luminance will map to 1000nits. HarperVision is calibrated to 1100nits, so with display type set to 'Projector' you will potentially lose a significant amount of peak white brightness.
> 
> The Dynamic Range slider is different and can be tweaked to preference. I believe I set it two clicks just to get a few extra bits of detail in the blacks. My tip: use the opening scene in The Matrix with the cell phone trace, you should be able to see a very faint 'code crawl/noise' behind the flashing green numbers.



Many thanks Lithium for that info, I had set the Luminance setting to the projector option as well so you have saved my bacon, thanks very much.




After flicking between HarperVision & Orcus's settings I have got to go with Orcus. But I do really need to sort out the green issue.


Here is what the standard settings look like for me:












Far to much green so you will probably laugh at me but I thought what if I use CalMAN with Orcus's settings applied I just calibrate the grayscale with some HDR test patterns & my meter.


Here is what it looks like after:










It has not come out well on the image but it still have to much green even thou my measurments show a very good grayscale.


After that all I could think to do is just start adjusting by eye:












A little to red but much better, thing is I have had to turn the green gain slider down to 30 to get this result which is concerning me.


Still I am not really happy just adjusting by eye, it feels weird when you have software a meter & all these standards exist. 


Is there anyway I can check my work to see how accurate it is or is that pointless as in reality these projectors are not capable of true HDR so trying to calibrate them to the standards that exist is impossible?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> The readings above are with them left at default. To be honest I am in no way competent enough to be messing around in the CMS, I get myself into enough trouble with the two point grayscale adjustment
> 
> 
> I have spent the last couple of hours playing with the two point grayscale control trying to tame the green but I feel I am making things worst. Should I be doing this by eye or with a meter?
> 
> 
> I dont see your Digital Cinema settings on the graph you posted, where can I find them. I would love to try them out.



No harm in trying the cms settings... Personally I would try using them and adjust for your screen using the color temp offsets. Unfortunately every adjustment on this projector greatly affects other settings. For instance by not using my cms settings it will throw off brightness and contrast along with the color just being plain wrong. That is why I recommend if you’re going to use my settings use the offsets. They have the most affect on color pushes induced by screen differences in the smallest value adjustments. Being that we are horrendous at judging color but great at discerning small changes in contrast this is the best approach imo for adapting others settings for your own use. Also, see below for the digital cinema settings 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


> No harm in trying the cms settings... Personally I would try using them and adjust for your screen using the color temp offsets. Unfortunately every adjustment on this projector greatly affects other settings. For instance by not using my cms settings it will throw off brightness and contrast along with the color just being plain wrong. That is why I recommend if you’re going to use my settings use the offsets. They have the most affect on color pushes induced by screen differences in the smallest value adjustments. Being that we are horrendous at judging color but great at discerning small changes in contrast this is the best approach imo for adapting others settings for your own use. Also, see below for the digital cinema settings



Just tried your Digital Cinema settings & they are very similar to your natural HDR settings in terms of the excess of green for me.


I know you said to start with the offsets in the colour temp section but is my only option to do this by eye or can I use a meter? I feel I could spend all day tweaking & get nowhere with it


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> Just tried your Digital Cinema settings & they are very similar to your natural HDR settings in terms of the excess of green for me.
> 
> 
> I know you said to start with the offsets in the colour temp section but is my only option to do this by eye or can I use a meter? I feel I could spend all day tweaking & get nowhere with it




Just do it by eye, like I said we’re terrible at judging color so if it looks good to you then who cares 

But start by going down 2 clicks on green and up 2 on blue. Sounds like your screen is pretty neutral so that should get you much closer. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

nielvm said:


> Yes, but the calibration needs a lot different tuning on the cms then. I'm still tuning it a bit, but currently I prefer it on a big amount of material over the previous calibration with a custom gamma.
> 
> This new callibration is Very bright (xyscreen soundmax of 280cm wide), even compared to my previous settings, which are very bright compared to the standard (digital) cinema with hdr1 mode.


I tried -2 on Bird Box without changing anything else and I really liked it! Very bright and pops! Will you change the cms as you go or will you stay with this?

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


> Just do it by eye, like I said we’re terrible at judging color so if it looks good to you then who cares
> 
> But start by going down 2 clicks on green and up 2 on blue. Sounds like your screen is pretty neutral so that should get you much closer.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Many thanks for a your time & help Orcus I tried what you said on the gains of blue & green but it needs a little more. I am now at green gain of 30 & blue gain at 55 a little more than two Also had to lower the red a little. 



Just to confirm with you on the Panasonic player I need the optomizer on, the luminance setting to the middle & do you use the Dynamic Range adjustment slider? If so whats is your setting?


I have to say thou the picture looks amazing for HDR content it really does pop, never seen it look so good. Here is a comparision against HarperVision


Orcus HDR:










HarperVision:


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> Many thanks for a your time & help Orcus I tried what you said on the gains of blue & green but it needs a little more. I am now at green gain of 30 & blue gain at 55 a little more than two Also had to lower the red a little.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to confirm with you on the Panasonic player I need the optomizer on, the luminance setting to the middle & do you use the Dynamic Range adjustment slider? If so whats is your setting?
> 
> 
> I have to say thou the picture looks amazing for HDR content it really does pop, never seen it look so good. Here is a comparision against HarperVision
> 
> 
> Orcus HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HarperVision:




I was talking about the offsets not the gains  but either will work. As you found out with the gains you will just have to adjust significantly more but it’s looking good! And yes I place optimizer on, luminance middle and I don’t use dynamic range adjustment as my settings will display 1000 nits properly on its own. Hope that helps and enjoy! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RedPills4All

*Help choosing location to mount Epson 5040ub*

Hey everyone, I just got a 5040ub and I'm trying to determine where to mount this thing. Room is 14 wide, 23 long, 8 ft ceilings. Part of the issue is that I'm not sure on the screen size yet, but I'll be doing either 138" CIH or 158" CIH. I want to mount and project on the empty wall first and play with the seating locations and the screen size before I get the screen. I'm trying to use the Projector Central calculator below, but not really understanding it. Is my goal to get it so it's in the green area? at 21 ft, 138" screen, 2.39, it's right on the edge of the green pattern.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Any advice? Ideally I would like to mount it flush with the ceiling (8 ft ceilings) about 20-21 feet back from the screen wall.

Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance!


----------



## Wolfie

This is Wolfie. Does anybody know how to disable the fixed screen edge scanning on this projector? I'm not using a fixed screen with black borders. I'm using a plain wall with curtains for edge borders. When I go from 1.85:1 to 2.40:1, the picture is not centered because the projector is scanning for black edges on the screen and can't find them. It's really bad when I go from 2.40:1 back to 1.85:1. If anybody has a solution to this problem, I would love to hear from you. You can P.M. me if you'd like. 



Thanks
Wolfie


----------



## rekbones

Here is a better third party calculator that includes full lens shift ranges. http://www.webprojectorcalculator.com/ The Epson 5040 has the largest zoom and shift range in the industry so you should have no issue with the throw and screen sizes you are looking at. Just remember the 5040 is a 16:9 projector just make sure your in the zoom range to fit a 16:9 image within the 2:35 screen and still be able to zoom to fill the 2:35 width.


----------



## RedPills4All

rekbones said:


> Here is a better third party calculator that includes full lens shift ranges. http://www.webprojectorcalculator.com/ The Epson 5040 has the largest zoom and shift range in the industry so you should have no issue with the throw and screen sizes you are looking at. Just remember the 5040 is a 16:9 projector just make sure your in the zoom range to fit a 16:9 image within the 2:35 screen and still be able to zoom to fill the 2:35 width.


Awesome thanks so much, this calc is much better. Ok so I want to make sure I'm doing this right (total newb as you can tell).

I set everything up with my ceiling height, projector type, screen gain, and distance I want to mount from. I used a 2.35 screen. See attached. Now you're saying I need to do this for 16x9 too as it's a 16x9 projector, just to make sure it works from that throw distance?

Also, it won't let me adjust the pole length. I was planning on mounting it very close to the ceiling using the mount I just purchased. Is this saying I HAVE to use a 14" pole (since I can't adjust that setting).

Thanks again this is incredibly helpful


----------



## rekbones

scottjwoodford said:


> Awesome thanks so much, this calc is much better. Ok so I want to make sure I'm doing this right (total newb as you can tell).
> 
> I set everything up with my ceiling height, projector type, screen gain, and distance I want to mount from. I used a 2.35 screen. See attached. Now you're saying I need to do this for 16x9 too as it's a 16x9 projector, just to make sure it works from that throw distance?
> 
> Also, it won't let me adjust the pole length. I was planning on mounting it very close to the ceiling using the mount I just purchased. Is this saying I HAVE to use a 14" pole (since I can't adjust that setting).
> 
> Thanks again this is incredibly helpful


You can use any pole length you want as it has enough shift range assuming you don't have 12' ceilings. You must be able to display a 16:9 image within your screen height (black bars on each side) as all your menus and some content will use the full 16:9 image from the projector. Put a second screen in the calculator using a 16:9 AR with the same height as your 2:35 screen to make sure your in the zoom range. The power lens memory will then be able to change AR for your CIH setup.


----------



## jeremy schurter

I have a few questions

With a fully calibrated 5040.
1080 and 4k 

What other projector(s) are comparable.

I am thinking of doing 150 - 160 inch screen 16/9 
Spandex screen 

Thank you


----------



## rpoulos

Just got this projector and getting a washed out picture IMO... any ideas?

My setup: no ambient light, 20 foot throw, 135" silver ticket white screen, bright cinema mode, apple tv 4k HDR @ 24 and xbox one x... 

Both give a seemingly washed out appearance, especially in lighter scenes... I've tried the other color modes as well, same thing... just can't seem to get dark blacks so the image pops... the projector shows I'm receiving a 4k hdr signal


----------



## nielvm

westbergjoakim said:


> I tried -2 on Bird Box without changing anything else and I really liked it! Very bright and pops! Will you change the cms as you go or will you stay with this?
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


I have already changed the cms, but the color temp also needs adjusting in the low regions. 
I will post my new settings once they are finished.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

rpoulos said:


> Just got this projector and getting a washed out picture IMO... any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> My setup: no ambient light, 20 foot throw, 135" silver ticket white screen, bright cinema mode, apple tv 4k HDR @ 24 and xbox one x...
> 
> 
> 
> Both give a seemingly washed out appearance, especially in lighter scenes... I've tried the other color modes as well, same thing... just can't seem to get dark blacks so the image pops... the projector shows I'm receiving a 4k hdr signal




Did you try any of the settings we have posted here? If not look back to one of my posts yesterday I posted 4 sets of HDR settings you can try.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jeremy schurter said:


> I have a few questions
> 
> With a fully calibrated 5040.
> 1080 and 4k
> 
> What other projector(s) are comparable.
> 
> I am thinking of doing 150 - 160 inch screen 16/9
> Spandex screen
> 
> Thank you




For the price nothing. You really won’t get significantly better performance until you get to the JVC, Sony’s, BenQ’s, etc. beginning at north of $4k. Also, spending 2 grand plus on a projector and using spandex as a screen is pure lunacy. You can get a silver ticket screen in that size for a few hundred...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jeremy schurter

OrcusVaruna said:


> jeremy schurter said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a few questions
> 
> With a fully calibrated 5040.
> 1080 and 4k
> 
> What other projector(s) are comparable.
> 
> I am thinking of doing 150 - 160 inch screen 16/9
> Spandex screen
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the price nothing. You really won’t get significantly better performance until you get to the JVC, Sony’s, BenQ’s, etc. beginning at north of $4k. Also, spending 2 grand plus on a projector and using spandex as a screen is pure lunacy. You can get a silver ticket screen in that size for a few hundred...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I was going with spandex because I am putting the speakers behind. 

From what I have read/talk with people spandex is competitive with screens


----------



## OrcusVaruna

jeremy schurter said:


> I was going with spandex because I am putting the speakers behind.
> 
> From what I have read/talk with people spandex is competitive with screens




If I was going with a BenQ 1070 type projector sure but a 2k+ projector I’d get a silver ticket acoustically transparent screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rpoulos

OrcusVaruna said:


> Did you try any of the settings we have posted here? If not look back to one of my posts yesterday I posted 4 sets of HDR settings you can try.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi thank you for posting those settings, I did try them and the xbox x is def improved a great deal... the apple tv is better for sure with these settings, but still looks like it lacks contrast or something... I had a top of the line epson 1080p proj back in 2012ish using a screen innovations white screen in a similar size and remember a much better picture. That was using the old apple TV with no HDR or 4k of course... 

Maybe this screen is the problem?


----------



## Dave Harper

AdamAttewell said:


> Many thanks for a your time & help Orcus I tried what you said on the gains of blue & green but it needs a little more. I am now at green gain of 30 & blue gain at 55 a little more than two Also had to lower the red a little.
> 
> 
> Just to confirm with you on the Panasonic player I need the optomizer on, the luminance setting to the middle & do you use the Dynamic Range adjustment slider? If so whats is your setting?
> 
> I have to say thou the picture looks amazing for HDR content it really does pop, never seen it look so good. Here is a comparision against HarperVision
> 
> 
> Orcus HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HarperVision:



Great comparison Adam! Yes you can easily see the difference due to my settings not having the CMS and greyscale values, which were lost somehow. I’m glad you were able to get it all worked out and having an incredible image!


----------



## Justin_Rogers

OrcusVaruna said:


> No harm in trying the cms settings... Personally I would try using them and adjust for your screen using the color temp offsets. Unfortunately every adjustment on this projector greatly affects other settings. For instance by not using my cms settings it will throw off brightness and contrast along with the color just being plain wrong. That is why I recommend if you’re going to use my settings use the offsets. They have the most affect on color pushes induced by screen differences in the smallest value adjustments. Being that we are horrendous at judging color but great at discerning small changes in contrast this is the best approach imo for adapting others settings for your own use. Also, see below for the digital cinema settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I tried your new digital cinema settings and idk something looked wrong.. not sure what I missed but the saturation seemed way high and the brightest way to low (severe crushed blacks) which is very unlike all your other settings. 

For now I pushed brightness up to 68 and saturation down to 58... Need to go over the settings again and see what I am missing. 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Justin_Rogers said:


> I tried your new digital cinema settings and idk something looked wrong.. not sure what I missed but the saturation seemed way high and the brightest way to low (severe crushed blacks) which is very unlike all your other settings.
> 
> For now I pushed brightness up to 68 and saturation down to 58... Need to go over the settings again and see what I am missing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk




Did you enter the gamma settings correctly and make sure you are using auto bright? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gazzer55

Hi All - I just got a 5040ub and everything is great so far! I was wondering if if I need to install the firmware update for improved HDR or if this would have been done automatically by Epson on the newer units. I do see auto bright as an option which is brighter than HDR one. Thanks


----------



## Justin_Rogers

OrcusVaruna said:


> Did you enter the gamma settings correctly and make sure you are using auto bright?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah I double checked everything.. Thing is, I validated the issue on both my Shield TV and my Computer running madvr.. So it's not a source issue. Honestly though after making the changes to green (30 gain) and blue (55 gain) and raising the brightest to 68 I am supper happy with the image, best my Epson has ever looked on HDR content so I am good lol.. 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## Keith Ferguson

OrcusVaruna said:


> No issues with HDR requiring different settings for me. I use an ATV4K for streaming Netflix and other services, a Pany 820 for UHDBR, and an Xbox One X with a linker for gaming.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


OV...do you notice a difference using your pany over the xbox for uhdbr disc on this 5040ub?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Keith Ferguson said:


> OV...do you notice a difference using your pany over the xbox for uhdbr disc on this 5040ub?




Yes the Xbox blu-ray player still plain stinks for UHD Discs after what feels like 3 years of promises and 50 updates. Colors are still off and the image is still dim which is odd because for games neither is the case. I would highly recommend a dedicated player. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dave Harper said:


> Great comparison Adam! Yes you can easily see the difference due to my settings not having the CMS and greyscale values, which were lost somehow. I’m glad you were able to get it all worked out and having an incredible image!


Hi Dave, 

got to say a big thank you for bringing to our attention what is possible with these projectors when custom gamma curves & settings are applied.


I hope no offence was taken with the comparison.

I would really love to be able to calibrate your HarperVision mode to my projector with my meter. Even if it was just the basic two point grayscale adjustment.

Is this possible or is it way beyond a novice like me? My OCD plays with me like crazy if I have not confirmed with a meter


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> got to say a big thank you for bringing to our attention what is possible with these projectors when custom gamma curves & settings are applied.
> 
> 
> I hope no offence was taken with the comparison.
> 
> I would really love to be able to calibrate your HarperVision mode to my projector with my meter. Even if it was just the basic two point grayscale adjustment.
> 
> Is this possible or is it way beyond a novice like me? My OCD plays with me like crazy if I have not confirmed with a meter




HDR Calibrations are doable for anyone with a meter, there is actually an entire thread on calibrating the 5040 for hdr that I leaned on heavily. Just be prepared to get frustrated at times and to invest at least 15-20 hrs (if not more) learning the ropes. but I had never even done any calibration before buying the equipment and giving it a whirl a few months ago. More then anything I found it fun and quite a rewarding experience. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

AdamAttewell said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> got to say a big thank you for bringing to our attention what is possible with these projectors when custom gamma curves & settings are applied.
> 
> 
> I hope no offence was taken with the comparison.
> 
> I would really love to be able to calibrate your HarperVision mode to my projector with my meter. Even if it was just the basic two point grayscale adjustment.
> 
> Is this possible or is it way beyond a novice like me? My OCD plays with me like crazy if I have not confirmed with a meter


Have you tried HarperVision with nielvm's settings (cms and so)? They are really good! Try both with his custom gamma and with gamma -2.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Justin_Rogers

westbergjoakim said:


> Have you tried HarperVision with nielvm's settings (cms and so)? They are really good! Try both with his custom gamma and with gamma -2.
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


Do you have these settings?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

Justin_Rogers said:


> Do you have these settings?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


Post #16021 and #16059 .
I prefer gamma -2, but I have only tried it with one movie though.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

I also prefer gamma -2, only some content was too bright like planet earth 2.

Cms is a lot different with this gamma setting, will post it when I’m completely happy with the result.


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


> HDR Calibrations are doable for anyone with a meter, there is actually an entire thread on calibrating the 5040 for hdr that I leaned on heavily. Just be prepared to get frustrated at times and to invest at least 15-20 hrs (if not more) learning the ropes. but I had never even done any calibration before buying the equipment and giving it a whirl a few months ago. More then anything I found it fun and quite a rewarding experience.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yeah I did see that thread you are referring to but at points I just start not understanding what people are talking about. I can do SDR no problem but with HDR is seems very much dependent on the display you are calibrating due to there being so much variance in display illuminances so there are no hard & fast rules which is a little frustrating as most of the time I feel its all guess work for a novice like me but that's probably due to me not fully understanding.


If there was a clear workflow to work from like SDR "contrast, brightness, two point grayscale, multi point grayscale, CMS) then I think I could have a go at it.


I just need to know what patterns to use & what I should be looking for but that's easier said than done. Like you have said it seems the Epson is very temperamental when it comes to calibration with crossover occurring when adjusting settings.



westbergjoakim said:


> Have you tried HarperVision with nielvm's settings (cms and so)? They are really good! Try both with his custom gamma and with gamma -2.
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk



No I am yet to try those settings. I will give them ago. Do you happen to know what screen he has?


I am using a very neutral screen (DraperTecVision® XT1000X White) so it would be great if he is using something similar.


----------



## nielvm

I have a xyscreen soundmax 4K. Pretty neutral and 1.1 gain.


----------



## rbk123

I recently scored an Epson 4000 thanks to the hot deal posted and have begun playing around with the settings. I currently only have 1080p source material no HDR. It appears all of the Harpervision/Orcus/neilvm settings are geared toward HDR based content, correct? Are there SDR only settings? Or do they apply, regardless of HDR/no-HDR source?


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> I have a xyscreen soundmax 4K. Pretty neutral and 1.1 gain.



My Apologies, I totally missed your post


I am going to give your settings a go now. I presume you also have full control of ambient light?


----------



## AdamAttewell

rbk123 said:


> I recently scored an Epson 4000 thanks to the hot deal posted and have begun playing around with the settings. I currently only have 1080p source material no HDR. It appears all of the Harpervision/Orcus/neilvm settings are geared toward HDR based content, correct? Are there SDR only settings? Or do they apply, regardless of HDR/no-HDR source?



Here are some SDR settings from Orcus:













But if you have a meter I would recommend using that instead as you always get variances between projectors, screens & ambient light conditions.


----------



## nielvm

Yes, completely light controlled.


----------



## MagnumMafia05

So someone talked me into getting a 5040ub with how the picture quality is.. so last night before midnight I ordered one off amazon along with a silver ticket white 125" 2.35:1 screen with 1.1 gain. 

I googled 5040 with xbox x and seems like there is a issue because of the 60fps? 

Am I better off getting a fury hd or? Or should I just cancel the 5040ub? My box x is my 4k disk player and I also game on it (bf5 and cod4)


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> I also prefer gamma -2, only some content was too bright like planet earth 2.
> 
> Cms is a lot different with this gamma setting, will post it when I’m completely happy with the result.



Just to confirm Neil these are your current settings?


Color mode cinema

Brightness 52
Contrast 100
Satuation 58
Tint 100
Lamp medium

Dynamic range sdr


Gamma 0;-17;-32;-32;-32;-29;-22;+22;+32

Super white Off

R 22 60 52
G 48 63 50
B 47 66 50
C 27 67 50
M 44 50 50
Y 29 87 50

Image enhancement preset 4

Color temp 5
Tint 3

Custom
49 48 50 50 50 22


----------



## AdamAttewell

MagnumMafia05 said:


> So someone talked me into getting a 5040ub with how the picture quality is.. so last night before midnight I ordered one off amazon along with a silver ticket white 125" 2.35:1 screen with 1.1 gain.
> 
> I googled 5040 with xbox x and seems like there is a issue because of the 60fps?
> 
> Am I better off getting a fury hd or? Or should I just cancel the 5040ub? My box x is my 4k disk player and I also game on it (bf5 and cod4)



I believe the issue you are refering to is that fact that the HDMI chipset used by Epson is not capable of processing 4K, HDR, BT.2020 10bit @ 60Hz


Many get round this issue by using the HD Fury Linker & convert the 4K, HDR, BT.2020 10bit @ 60Hz signal produced by the Xbox to 4K, HDR, BT.2020 8bit @ 60Hz which works great.


----------



## MagnumMafia05

AdamAttewell said:


> I believe the issue you are refering to is that fact that the HDMI chipset used by Epson is not capable of processing 4K, HDR, BT.2020 10bit @ 60Hz
> 
> 
> Many get round this issue by using the HD Fury Linker & convert the 4K, HDR, BT.2020 10bit @ 60Hz signal produced by the Xbox to 4K, HDR, BT.2020 8bit @ 60Hz which works great.


So the one I would buy is the gold looking one? Now the shield should auto detect and switch to the correct setting for the 5040ub?


----------



## rbk123

AdamAttewell said:


> Here are some SDR settings from Orcus:


Thank you, sir.


----------



## AdamAttewell

MagnumMafia05 said:


> So the one I would buy is the gold looking one? Now the shield should auto detect and switch to the correct setting for the 5040ub?



Yes the HD fury linker is the one you require, I have a shield & I have to manually select a different HDMI mode when wanting to watch HDR content at 60hz if I do not want to use my HD Fury Integeral.


I am yet to try it with the HD Fury in the chain. I was just viewing at 30hz instead of 60hz with 4K, HDR & 10 bit with BT.2020. But I have been assured by others it will work.


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> nielvm said:
> 
> 
> 
> I also prefer gamma -2, only some content was too bright like planet earth 2.
> 
> Cms is a lot different with this gamma setting, will post it when I’m completely happy with the result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to confirm Neil these are your current settings?
> 
> 
> Color mode cinema
> 
> Brightness 52
> Contrast 100
> Satuation 58
> Tint 100
> Lamp medium
> 
> Dynamic range sdr
> 
> 
> Gamma 0;-17;-32;-32;-32;-29;-22;+22;+32
> 
> Super white Off
> 
> R 22 60 52
> G 48 63 50
> B 47 66 50
> C 27 67 50
> M 44 50 50
> Y 29 87 50
> 
> Image enhancement preset 4
> 
> Color temp 5
> Tint 3
> 
> Custom
> 49 48 50 50 50 22
Click to expand...

I believe I lowered brightness to 48. With the greyscale you will possibly have to lower green offset, according to the skin tones you’re getting.

As said I prefer gamma -2, will post those settings later...


----------



## westbergjoakim

AdamAttewell said:


> Yes the HD fury linker is the one you require, I have a shield & I have to manually select a different HDMI mode when wanting to watch HDR content at 60hz if I do not want to use my HD Fury Integeral.
> 
> 
> I am yet to try it with the HD Fury in the chain. I was just viewing at 30hz instead of 60hz with 4K, HDR & 10 bit with BT.2020. But I have been assured by others it will work.


Are you refering to Netflix and other 60Hz streaming content and getting 4k and HDR in 30Hz in Shield without HD Fury? I don't have a HD Fury, but I'm only getting 1080p in all the other Hz except for 60 when I recieve 4k.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

westbergjoakim said:


> Are you refering to Netflix and other 60Hz streaming content and getting 4k and HDR in 30Hz in Shield without HD Fury? I don't have a HD Fury, but I'm only getting 1080p in all the other Hz except for 60 when I recieve 4k.
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk



Yes just the other day I was streaming The Grand Tour in 4K, HDR, BT.2020 10bit @ 30Hz.


In the shield settings under Display & Sound > Advanced Settings > HDMI Settings > HDMI Display Modes you can select many different display modes including 3840x2160 30Hz YUV 422 12-bit Rec.2020


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> I believe I lowered brightness to 48. With the greyscale you will possibly have to lower green offset, according to the skin tones you’re getting.
> 
> As said I prefer gamma -2, will post those settings later...



Many thanks for the info, I will keep an eye out for your -2 gamma settings.


Adam


----------



## westbergjoakim

AdamAttewell said:


> Yes just the other day I was streaming The Grand Tour in 4K, HDR, BT.2020 10bit @ 30Hz.
> 
> 
> In the shield settings under Display & Sound > Advanced Settings > HDMI Settings > HDMI Display Modes you can select many different display modes including 3840x2160 30Hz YUV 422 12-bit Rec.2020


I have done that, and info in the projector show 4K and HDR2020, but when I see the info in Netflix (F8 or something like that) it shows that I'm only recieving 1080p and HDR. Have you tried that and seen that you really recieving 4K and HDR?

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

MagnumMafia05 said:


> So someone talked me into getting a 5040ub with how the picture quality is.. so last night before midnight I ordered one off amazon along with a silver ticket white 125" 2.35:1 screen with 1.1 gain.
> 
> 
> 
> I googled 5040 with xbox x and seems like there is a issue because of the 60fps?
> 
> 
> 
> Am I better off getting a fury hd or? Or should I just cancel the 5040ub? My box x is my 4k disk player and I also game on it (bf5 and cod4)




Linker is only needed for hdr gaming. I personally would keep the projector and get the linker to be able to game in hdr. A lot of the banding people talk about with 8-bit hdr is actually inherent to the game itself and not true banding. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

So glad Epson provided all these memory slots, getting full now













Just tried you settings Niel & you were right I needed to back off green a little but unfortunatly on my screen they look a little washed out compared to Orcus's settings:


Orcus HDR










Nielvm HDR












I dont know if your gamma -2 settings are a little darker?


The camera auto exposure makes the images look dark than the actually are.


----------



## nielvm

The -2 gamma is even brighter.

I heard that the uhd disc of oblivion is really bad, don't know if that is a good reference.

For me, "my settings" look better because you can really see the details in de shadows. In all the settings I tried, they were more like the upper picture. The details are there, but in regular viewing, you don't actually notice them because they are so subtle. Therefor everything seems equally dark while viewing the film, only when pausing you notice that there are details. For me, this isn't a nice viewing experience.
I also ask myself if the overall image is bright enough to reproduce a lifelike environlent. To me, the upper picture seems unreal because with the sunlight right in your face, it's unlikely that the surrounding clouds are that dark. 

The upper picture seems a good test to see that you don't clip blacks or highlights, but doesn't say much about color accuracy. I don't agree that this picture shows a "washed out" image, for that I would recommend a daylight scene with skin tones.


----------



## westbergjoakim

Nielvm vs Orcus at my place. I don't get the washout as you other describe :S I see more details and still have the blacks and pops.









Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

I find it hard to judge on documentary material. 
I've had enough of the dark images when I watched "the house with the clock in it's wall" the other day. When I upped the gamma to -2 and adjusted the cms accordingly, I was stunned. The viewing experience increased enormously, the colors popped a lot more, yet the skin tones remained natural.


----------



## RedPills4All

rekbones said:


> You can use any pole length you want as it has enough shift range assuming you don't have 12' ceilings. You must be able to display a 16:9 image within your screen height (black bars on each side) as all your menus and some content will use the full 16:9 image from the projector. Put a second screen in the calculator using a 16:9 AR with the same height as your 2:35 screen to make sure your in the zoom range. The power lens memory will then be able to change AR for your CIH setup.


Ok that makes sense. Can you look at the attached workup on a 142" screen and all my environmentals and give me a sanity check (see attached)? It seems if I mount at 21' that the brightness will be too low (unless I keep the lamp on "high"). Not sure if that's a good idea. ? Moving the projector much closer, say 16', really ups the brightness. I would just prefer to mount it near the back of the room so I'm not sure what to do there.

Actually scratch that last. It appears if I put the screen gain to 1.1 instead of .95 (which it will be for the screen I want to use), the low lamp brightness goes into the green.


----------



## Bmac55

I don’t know if anyone is keeping score on the power supply issue or not, but I think I might be the newest member of the club. Last night, about 15 minutes into a movie, the screen went dark. Checked the projector and there were no signs of life (no indicator lights) and the lens shutter remained opened. After checking the circuit breakers, unplugging and replugging the projector and scratching my head thoroughly, we decided to watch the movie on the tv as all signs pointed to a catastrophic failure of the projector.

I haven’t really spent much time on AVS since the fall of 2017 when I purchased the 5040ube. So. until researching the possible causes (and hoping to discover a fix) of my pj’s demise on this forum today, I was unaware of this defect. I mainly watch college football on it and the occasional movie so it doesn’t have many hours on it at all and, accordingly, was perplexed by the failure. Although I’m not happy about the dead projector, I guess there is some comfort in knowing that I am not alone and that Epson is well aware of the problem.

So, I’ll call Epson tomorrow and get the process started of getting a replacement. Hopefully, I won’t have to repeat this process several times.

Cheers


----------



## MagnumMafia05

Anyone use this ceiling mount? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0MLLJL

I did order the fury linker.. and that PJ mount.

Edit: I ordered this one and trying cancel the other.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1JFMTM


----------



## AdamAttewell

Bmac55 said:


> I don’t know if anyone is keeping score on the power supply issue or not, but I think I might be the newest member of the club. Last night, about 15 minutes into a movie, the screen went dark. Checked the projector and there were no signs of life (no indicator lights) and the lens shutter remained opened. After checking the circuit breakers, unplugging and replugging the projector and scratching my head thoroughly, we decided to watch the movie on the tv as all signs pointed to a catastrophic failure of the projector.
> 
> I haven’t really spent much time on AVS since the fall of 2017 when I purchased the 5040ube. So. until researching the possible causes (and hoping to discover a fix) of my pj’s demise on this forum today, I was unaware of this defect. I mainly watch college football on it and the occasional movie so it doesn’t have many hours on it at all and, accordingly, was perplexed by the failure. Although I’m not happy about the dead projector, I guess there is some comfort in knowing that I am not alone and that Epson is well aware of the problem.
> 
> So, I’ll call Epson tomorrow and get the process started of getting a replacement. Hopefully, I won’t have to repeat this process several times.
> 
> 
> Cheers




I wish you luck with Epson, I have one of the early 6040's with about 300 hours on it and am crossing my fingers mine does not have the same fate. 



There is a dedicated thread about that very issue here:


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...0-6040-9300-uk-power-supply-failure-rate.html







nielvm said:


> I find it hard to judge on documentary material.
> I've had enough of the dark images when I watched "the house with the clock in it's wall" the other day. When I upped the gamma to -2 and adjusted the cms accordingly, I was stunned. The viewing experience increased enormously, the colors popped a lot more, yet the skin tones remained natural.



You are probably right I think Oblivion is not the best HDR material in the world I do love that movie thou & have seen it a few times so using something familiar is nice.


I just watched The Darkest Hour (not the best film either for HDR) with your settings & it looked great.


I think I am going to have to get used to the black levels on the Epson again as I have been watching a Sony OLED for the past few months while the theater room was under construction. I think I am expecting to much from the black level on the Epson.


Speaking of black levels, with all the settings dialed in whats the best way to check brightness & contrast? I have R.Masciola's HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns, what patterns do I need to use to check?


----------



## Gazzer55

Hi All - I was hoping someone could help me out regarding the firmware update. I just inputted a bunch of the recommended settings and everything is essentially set to Auto (Bright) in order to make the infinity war 4K blueray watchable. I thought that the only thing the firmware update was to make the HDR one setting the default setting for Auto (bright) however when I put the first HDR setting the image becomes way darker / unwatchable................I just want to make sure that I am in fact getting HDR with the auto bright setting im using.

FYI I found that recommended setting I found in the thread which uses bright cinema with a 64 brightness works best on my low gain spandex screen.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Gazzer55 said:


> Hi All - I was hoping someone could help me out regarding the firmware update. I just inputted a bunch of the recommended settings and everything is essentially set to Auto (Bright) in order to make the infinity war 4K blueray watchable. I thought that the only thing the firmware update was to make the HDR one setting the default setting for Auto (bright) however when I put the first HDR setting the image becomes way darker / unwatchable................I just want to make sure that I am in fact getting HDR with the auto bright setting im using.
> 
> FYI I found that recommended setting I found in the thread which uses bright cinema with a 64 brightness works best on my low gain spandex screen.



Do the settings you have copied state what the dynamic range setting should be set to? 



Some require the Auto (bright) setting & others require you to select SDR.


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> You are probably right I think Oblivion is not the best HDR material in the world I do love that movie thou & have seen it a few times so using something familiar is nice.
> 
> 
> I just watched The Darkest Hour (not the best film either for HDR) with your settings & it looked great.
> 
> 
> I think I am going to have to get used to the black levels on the Epson again as I have been watching a Sony OLED for the past few months while the theater room was under construction. I think I am expecting to much from the black level on the Epson.
> 
> 
> Speaking of black levels, with all the settings dialed in whats the best way to check brightness & contrast? I have R.Masciola's HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns, what patterns do I need to use to check?


You can check with the near white and near black patterns. With white you should see detail to 1000 nits, with black you should see bar 64.

For me, it’s more than that though… As I said earlier, for me it’s not enough that the detail is there, I want to see it while watching a movie, not when pausing and looking really close. There are plenty of movie scenes with shadow details. When you pause on such an image and try a few settings (like mine), you see the difference between the detail that is only nearly visible or clearly visible. Absolute black remains the same between both.

It’s debatable which one of the settings is “right” but personally I prefer to clearly see the detail.


----------



## antr

*Which patterns to use*

Harpervision digital Cinema have SDR as forced setting should you use HDR patterns or SDR patterns when calibrating CMS in the end using Calman + meter ?

Should HDR10 workflow or SDR workflow be used ?


----------



## nielvm

HDR patterns of course. You are also still using HDR input signals.


----------



## Gazzer55

AdamAttewell said:


> Do the settings you have copied state what the dynamic range setting should be set to?
> 
> 
> 
> Some require the Auto (bright) setting & others require you to select SDR.


For this one I use auto bright as opposed to SDR or HDR one. I think this may have been an older setting however it certainly looks the best with regards to contrast / brightness for HDR.


----------



## Gazzer55

AdamAttewell said:


> Do the settings you have copied state what the dynamic range setting should be set to?
> 
> 
> 
> Some require the Auto (bright) setting & others require you to select SDR.


For this one I use auto bright as opposed to SDR or HDR one. I think this may have been an older setting however it certainly looks the best with regards to contrast / brightness for HDR.


----------



## nielvm

I took some time to closely compare my HDR settings. I tried to capture the differences in picture modes as well as I could. Color is often a bit too warm in the pics, so please don't judge on color accuracy, but look for the difference in the dark details and color luminancy (pop). 

Unfortunately, I forgot to note down my "-2 gamma" settings, will do that next time I fire up the projector.

In order of appearance: my "harpervision" settings with gamma -2, my "harpervision" settings with custom gamma and regular digital cinema with auto bright mode.
Every picture set is with the same camera settings.

Heads up: picture dump!


----------



## bondslex

Nielvm - You have some beautiful looking images. Some of the best that I've seen from any projector.


----------



## rbk123

Bmac55 said:


> I don’t know if anyone is keeping score on the power supply issue or not, but I think I might be the newest member of the club. Last night, about 15 minutes into a movie, the screen went dark. Checked the projector and there were no signs of life (no indicator lights) and the lens shutter remained opened. After checking the circuit breakers, unplugging and replugging the projector and scratching my head thoroughly, we decided to watch the movie on the tv as all signs pointed to a catastrophic failure of the projector.


The only other thing to investigate is if it has fuses or not and if so, whether they're blown. No idea if the Epsons have fuses or not, though.


----------



## RedPills4All

*Optical HDMI & Fury Question*

Newb questions here for the experts. Can someone tell me why I would want to use an Optical HDMI vs a regular 4k HDMI cable for the 5040ub? My receiver is the Denon AVR-X6400h. 

Also, if I want to get HDR off a PS4 Pro, I have to buy the Fury linker? Would I use that device for any other purpose?


----------



## lessthanjoey2

Does anyone have a 5040ub/6040ub in the San Diego area who'd be willing to demo it? I'm considering moving to a projector to replace my older 65" plasma and would love to see what picture quality is like in person, including relative to ambient light (so the ability to adjust ambient light and see the degradation would be helpful). I'm hopefully enthusiastic and my wife isn't totally sold on it, but open to it, so being able to see one in person would be very useful!


----------



## AdamAttewell

scottjwoodford said:


> Newb questions here for the experts. Can someone tell me why I would want to use an Optical HDMI vs a regular 4k HDMI cable for the 5040ub? My receiver is the Denon AVR-X6400h.
> 
> Also, if I want to get HDR off a PS4 Pro, I have to buy the Fury linker? Would I use that device for any other purpose?


I believe the only reason you would want an optical HDMI cable is if you running a very long run (over 50 foot) from your AVR to your projector.

Monoprice cables are well regarded on this forum for their quality & reasonable pricing I also like Blue Jeans Cable. Recently I have tried some AmazonBasics HDMI cables & the build quality has been great & they work flawlessly passing HDR, 4K, BT.2020 & 10bit @ 60Hz. 

Being in the UK having to pay more in postage that what the cable costs is not great so the Amazon cables tick all the right boxes.

Normally anyone pushing optical HDMI cables are trying to rip you off/upselling & are selling overpriced cables.

I think you are correct in regard to needing the linker to game in HDR due to the Epson HDMI chipset not being able to support 4K, HDR, BT.2020, 10bit @ 60Hz due to bandwidth restrictions.

Orcus mentioned this a couple of posts back.


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> I took some time to closely compare my HDR settings. I tried to capture the differences in picture modes as well as I could. Color is often a bit too warm in the pics, so please don't judge on color accuracy, but look for the difference in the dark details and color luminancy (pop).
> 
> Unfortunately, I forgot to note down my "-2 gamma" settings, will do that next time I fire up the projector.
> 
> 
> In order of appearance: my "harpervision" settings with gamma -2, my "harpervision" settings with custom gamma and regular digital cinema with auto bright mode.
> Every picture set is with the same camera settings.



Some fantastic looking images there, thanks for posting them up niel. Cant wait to try your -2 gamma settings.

I am going to check those test patterns tonight, I did look at them before but on the brightness pattern it seemed to clip at 64 no matter how high I turned up the brightness control. I dont know if its a setting in the panny ub820 causing this or that its normal?

Would it be possible with all your settings active I could run a two point grayscale check? 

Just to see how close it is, I mean after playing with the offsets & gains a little the image looks great but I would love to check or is this not possible without having to adjust the CMS due to the crossover when adjusting settings?


----------



## inspector

lessthanjoey2 said:


> Does anyone have a 5040ub/6040ub in the San Diego area who'd be willing to demo it? I'm considering moving to a projector to replace my older 65" plasma and would love to see what picture quality is like in person, including relative to ambient light (so the ability to adjust ambient light and see the degradation would be helpful). I'm hopefully enthusiastic and my wife isn't totally sold on it, but open to it, so being able to see one in person would be very useful!



PM sent.


----------



## nielvm

bondslex said:


> Nielvm - You have some beautiful looking images. Some of the best that I've seen from any projector.


Thanks man, I appreciate that!



AdamAttewell said:


> Some fantastic looking images there, thanks for posting them up niel. Cant wait to try your -2 gamma settings.
> 
> 
> I am going to check those test patterns tonight, I did look at them before but on the brightness pattern it seemed to clip at 64 no matter how high I turned up the brightness control. I dont know if its a setting in the panny ub820 causing this or that its normal?
> 
> 
> Would it be possible with all your settings active I could run a two point grayscale check?
> 
> Just to see how close it is, I mean after playing with the offsets & gains a little the image looks great but I would love to check or is this not possible without having to adjust the CMS due to the crossover when adjusting settings?



Yes, in case of HDR I recommend using the 10% grey pattern to calibrate the offset. With sdr the gain-settings are more important, with hdr the offset settings contain the most of the image content, so play close attention to that.
You can do this without adjusting the cms, but I found that the Cms needed whole different settings with the -2 gamma.


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Thanks man, I appreciate that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, in case of HDR I recommend using the 10% grey pattern to calibrate the offset. With sdr the gain-settings are more important, with hdr the offset settings contain the most of the image content, so play close attention to that.
> You can do this without adjusting the cms, but I found that the Cms needed whole different settings with the -2 gamma.



Niel do you use CalMan, I was going to use the HDR10 workflow to start with. 



So if you use 10% gray for the low end what do you use for the high end?


Also what gamut target & gamma formula do you target?


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> Niel do you use CalMan, I was going to use the HDR10 workflow to start with.
> 
> 
> 
> So if you use 10% gray for the low end what do you use for the high end?
> 
> 
> Also what gamut target & gamma formula do you target?



I use colorhcfr. For the high end I usually take 60%. Afterwards you check the whole scale of course.
Gamut target is P3, but the most important thing is to look at the saturation levels, rather than the full triangle.

In this case, I discarted gamma calibration completely and just took the standard -2 gamma. 

Tonight I will try to do a comparison between hdr movies and sdr movies.
So long we have been focussing to make the best of hdr, but I'm curious to see if my best settings really look better than the same movie in sdr.


----------



## jbarteli

All the settings I tried from here are good, but I still coming back to the settings that aren't in the pdf. I'm sure I got then from this thread.....a while ago.


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> I use colorhcfr. For the high end I usually take 60%. Afterwards you check the whole scale of course.
> Gamut target is P3, but the most important thing is to look at the saturation levels, rather than the full triangle.
> 
> In this case, I discarted gamma calibration completely and just took the standard -2 gamma.
> 
> Tonight I will try to do a comparison between hdr movies and sdr movies.
> So long we have been focussing to make the best of hdr, but I'm curious to see if my best settings really look better than the same movie in sdr.



Thanks for the info, I will take a look later I just needed to know some info as CalMAN requires it before starting calibration.


----------



## nielvm

You can also try colorhcfr, it's free


----------



## antr

AdamAttewell said:


> Thanks for the info, I will take a look later I just needed to know some info as CalMAN requires it before starting calibration.


It would be great to have your Calman settings when ready... and which patterns you have been using etc.

Have been using calman for SDR calibration since Spectracal was new in the business and have pretty good experience of SDR calibration using latest calman and mobile forge as pattern generator incl. 3dlut via EEColor.
However, now trying HDR calibration and using Masciolas patterns connected via Ziddo Z9s and having this Epson pj that handles HDR but isn't really a "real" HDR device needs another "thinking" on how to get the "best" picture for your environment.

Hope you can share your experience, good luck and looking forward for your result


----------



## AdamAttewell

antr said:


> It would be great to have your Calman settings when ready... and which patterns you have been using etc.
> 
> Have been using calman for SDR calibration since Spectracal was new in the business and have pretty good experience of SDR calibration using latest calman and mobile forge as pattern generator incl. 3dlut via EEColor.
> However, now trying HDR calibration and using Masciolas patterns connected via Ziddo Z9s and having this Epson pj that handles HDR but isn't really a "real" HDR device needs another "thinking" on how to get the "best" picture for your environment.
> 
> Hope you can share your experience, good luck and looking forward for your result



Not wanting to take this off topic but what device are you using MobileForge on? I found through meter profiling that my Amazon Fire TV & Nvidia Shield were massively inacurate in what they output.


----------



## antr

AdamAttewell said:


> Not wanting to take this off topic but what device are you using MobileForge on? I found through meter profiling that my Amazon Fire TV & Nvidia Shield were massively inacurate in what they output.


Have been using Mobilforge on an Samsung S8+ (earlier S6) phone without any issues


----------



## AdamAttewell

Well I have been playing around for the last couple of hours with trying to adjust the grayscale with CalMAN & I dont seem to be getting anywhere.


I can get the error down & the grayscale looking decent but when viewing material there is a green hue over the whole image.


Before:










After









Any idea what I am doing wrong?


----------



## nielvm

Here are my settings for HDR with gamma -2


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> Well I have been playing around for the last couple of hours with trying to adjust the grayscale with CalMAN & I dont seem to be getting anywhere.
> 
> 
> I can get the error down & the grayscale looking decent but when viewing material there is a green hue over the whole image.
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea what I am doing wrong?



Not familiar with calman, but it's strange that the target setting already clips at 50%
Don't know if he also takes the luminance into account to calculate the delta error. If it does, you will always have a big delta.


----------



## Lesmor

AdamAttewell said:


> Well I have been playing around for the last couple of hours with trying to adjust the grayscale with CalMAN & I dont seem to be getting anywhere.
> 
> 
> I can get the error down & the grayscale looking decent but when viewing material there is a green hue over the whole image.
> 
> 
> Any idea what I am doing wrong?


Is this for calibrating rec.709?

What source are you using?
Why is Direct display control selected?
don't think that works for a TW9300 projector only for certain TV's


----------



## nielvm

Here are some comparison pictures of HDR vs SDR (HDR always first). Because I was always focussing on making the best of HDR, I wanted to see if the end result is better than the same movie in SDR.

AGAIN: it's very hard to capture the same colors and luminance on photo than it is visible on the screen. Especially with skyscraper the images look more red and saturated than they look on my screen. 
Both pictures were always taken with the same camera settings.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Lesmor said:


> Is this for calibrating rec.709?
> 
> What source are you using?
> Why is Direct display control selected?
> don't think that works for a TW9300 projector only for certain TV's



For test patterns I am using my Panny UB820 with R.Masciola's HDR10 test patterns. 



Not sure what you mean about the Direct Display control as I dont have it selected.


Nothing is configured under the tab.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> For test patterns I am using my Panny UB820 with R.Masciola's HDR10 test patterns.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what you mean about the Direct Display control as I dont have it selected.
> 
> 
> Nothing is configured under the tab.




I would ask in the 5040 calibration thread you’ll get better help there. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


> I would ask in the 5040 calibration thread you’ll get better help there.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Will do, I have opened a thread on the Spectracal forums also.


----------



## RedPills4All

AdamAttewell said:


> I believe the only reason you would want an optical HDMI cable is if you running a very long run (over 50 foot) from your AVR to your projector.
> 
> Monoprice cables are well regarded on this forum for their quality & reasonable pricing I also like Blue Jeans Cable. Recently I have tried some AmazonBasics HDMI cables & the build quality has been great & they work flawlessly passing HDR, 4K, BT.2020 & 10bit @ 60Hz.
> 
> Being in the UK having to pay more in postage that what the cable costs is not great so the Amazon cables tick all the right boxes.
> 
> Normally anyone pushing optical HDMI cables are trying to rip you off/upselling & are selling overpriced cables.
> 
> I think you are correct in regard to needing the linker to game in HDR due to the Epson HDMI chipset not being able to support 4K, HDR, BT.2020, 10bit @ 60Hz due to bandwidth restrictions.
> 
> Orcus mentioned this a couple of posts back.


Great, thanks.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

nielvm said:


> Here are my settings for HDR with gamma -2


Just curious, why did you decide to go with Cinema rather than Digital Cinema? I believe that Digital Cinema is the only setting that uses the DCI-P3 color filter.


----------



## nielvm

No it isn’t, we’ve had that discussion here before.

Cinema mode also uses p3 filter...


----------



## drhankz

lessthanjoey2 said:


> Does anyone have a 5040ub/6040ub in the San Diego area who'd be willing to demo it? I'm considering moving to a projector to replace my older 65" plasma and would love to see what picture quality is like in person, including relative to ambient light (so the ability to adjust ambient light and see the degradation would be helpful). I'm hopefully enthusiastic and my wife isn't totally sold on it, but open to it, so being able to see one in person would be very useful!


I can't tell you how many generations of Projectors I have 
owned and used. Right now I have three generations of 
projectors in use from a tiny 60" screen to a 156" screen.
My middle projector is a 96" screen in a sun drenched
high internal lights as well game room. 

Once you go projector you never go back. The screen can
be more important than the projector. It controls how the
projector image is reflected to you. 

I have three rooms:

Game Room - SUN LIGHT

Living Room - Fabric Curtains 

Home Theater - Bat Cave

Find an AV professional who can HELP with the screen selection

My Picture Icon is the Game Room Screen


----------



## Justin_Rogers

nielvm said:


> No it isn’t, we’ve had that discussion here before.
> 
> Cinema mode also uses p3 filter...


Okay cool must have missed that discussion.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

nielvm said:


> Here are my settings for HDR with gamma -2


I went ahead and put these into a PDF... Will test them when I get home from work tonight.


----------



## Wolfie

This is Wolfie. Does anybody know how to disable the fixed screen edge scanning on this projector? I'm not using a fixed screen with black borders. I'm using a plain wall with curtains for edge borders. When I go from 1.85:1 to 2.40:1, the picture is not centered because the projector is scanning for black edges on the screen and can't find them. It's really bad when I go from 2.40:1 back to 1.85:1. If anybody has a solution to this problem, I would love to hear from you. You can P.M. me if you'd like. 



Thanks
Wolfie


----------



## nielvm

Justin_Rogers said:


> nielvm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my settings for HDR with gamma -2
> 
> 
> 
> I went ahead and put these into a PDF... Will test them when I get home from work tonight.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I like the settings for most of my HDR movies. Some were really bad with these settings, especially older ones. Not really sure why...


----------



## Dave Harper

antr said:


> Harpervision digital Cinema have SDR as forced setting should you use HDR patterns or SDR patterns when calibrating CMS in the end using Calman + meter ?
> 
> 
> 
> Should HDR10 workflow or SDR workflow be used ?



Use HDR patterns with the HDR10 workflow. 




AdamAttewell said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> got to say a big thank you for bringing to our attention what is possible with these projectors when custom gamma curves & settings are applied.
> 
> 
> I hope no offence was taken with the comparison.
> 
> I would really love to be able to calibrate your HarperVision mode to my projector with my meter. Even if it was just the basic two point grayscale adjustment.
> 
> Is this possible or is it way beyond a novice like me? My OCD plays with me like crazy if I have not confirmed with a meter



You’re welcome. No offense at all. 

Yes please do! As I mentioned in my reply to you, I lost the CMS and greyscale settings somehow when I sold my last 5040UB. I’ve been seeking someone to do this or send me their 5040/6040 for a free calibration and HarperVision tweak ever since to recover those settings and improve upon them.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dave Harper said:


> Use HDR patterns with the HDR10 workflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You’re welcome. No offense at all.
> 
> Yes please do! As I mentioned in my reply to you, I lost the CMS and greyscale settings somehow when I sold my last 5040UB. I’ve been seeking someone to do this or send me their 5040/6040 for a free calibration and HarperVision tweak ever since to recover those settings and improve upon them.


I would love to send you my projector but I think the postage from the UK & back maybe a little excessive.


I am currently trying to tweak the grayscale on a couple of the settings I have found in this thread but even after getting what is a great looking grayscale in CalMAN when viewing content it has a green hue to it.


I have tried various settings in Calman to no avail, I am at a loss as to what to try next.


----------



## bondslex

These 5040/6040 display beautiful images. I was considering one. How concerned are you about the 10 gbps hdmi connection. Has it affected anyone or caused any issues with your normal viewing?


----------



## nielvm

None. Apparently that’s only an issue when you do HDR gaming.


----------



## bluer101

Wolfie said:


> This is Wolfie. Does anybody know how to disable the fixed screen edge scanning on this projector? I'm not using a fixed screen with black borders. I'm using a plain wall with curtains for edge borders. When I go from 1.85:1 to 2.40:1, the picture is not centered because the projector is scanning for black edges on the screen and can't find them. It's really bad when I go from 2.40:1 back to 1.85:1. If anybody has a solution to this problem, I would love to hear from you. You can P.M. me if you'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Wolfie


I’m not aware of any edge scanning from the projector. You aim and align the projector, it’s not automatic.


----------



## jbarteli

nielvm said:


> None. Apparently that’s only an issue when you do HDR gaming.


Or when using a dune 4k pro, you get banding. Its the dune's problem, but wouldn't be there when there was a 18 Gbps chipset on the epson.


----------



## WynsWrld98

jbarteli said:


> All the settings I tried from here are good, but I still coming back to the settings that aren't in the pdf. I'm sure I got then from this thread.....a while ago.


Looks great, what are the settings?


----------



## Dave Harper

AdamAttewell said:


> I would love to send you my projector but I think the postage from the UK & back maybe a little excessive.
> 
> I am currently trying to tweak the grayscale on a couple of the settings I have found in this thread but even after getting what is a great looking grayscale in CalMAN when viewing content it has a green hue to it.
> 
> I have tried various settings in Calman to no avail, I am at a loss as to what to try next.



Did you mess with the green a lot when doing your greyscale adjustments?


----------



## MagnumMafia05

I'm colorblind so I'm going look into seeing if there is someone around here to calibrate my 5040ub and my x900f. Wish I could mess around the settings like you guys can.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

nielvm said:


> Thanks. I like the settings for most of my HDR movies. Some were really bad with these settings, especially older ones. Not really sure why...


Wow.. these are my new default settings for HDR! 

They really look great! 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dave Harper said:


> Did you mess with the green a lot when doing your greyscale adjustments?


When I first tried Orcus's HDR settings for Natural I noticed the green hue without adjusting anything, we put this down to him using an ALR screen & I am using a very neutral 1.0 gain screen. 

Niel on the other hand is using a natural screen but even with his default settings the image still has a green hue. 

Lets take nielvm's settings here are his default custom colour temp settings:

Offset R – 49 
Offset G – 48 
Offset B – 50 

Gain R – 50 
Gain G – 50 
Gain B – 22 

If I adjust just the custom colour temp settings to get a better grayscale in CalMAN with a meter I get these figures:

Offset R – 47
Offset G – 46 
Offset B – 46 

Gain R – 37 
Gain G – 43 
Gain B – 17 

Now lets look at Orcus's default custom colour temp settings:


Offset R – 45
Offset G – 48
Offset B – 43 


Gain R – 50 
Gain G – 40 
Gain B – 52

Now if I adjust by eye to get the image looking how I think it should I end up with this:


Offset R – 45
Offset G – 46 
Offset B – 45 


Gain R – 46 
Gain G – 30
Gain B – 54

Both sets of settings I am using the CMS settings provided so all I have changed is the custom colour temp settings & tweaked the brightness & contrast with some HDR clipping patterns.

I am starting to wonder if my projector is faulty. Problem is I can do an SDR calibration no problem & the image looks great. I have checked my meter profile numerous times to see if this is the issue as well.


----------



## Kev1000000

Just got my 5040 and loved it for the first 34 hours, but it appears my brightness has nearly halved since the first couple hours on the bulb. Has anyone else experienced such drastic dimming in the first 34 hours of the OG bulb life? I ran on medium power for nearly all of those 34 hours, and now on high, it's not even close to the original brightness on medium at hour 0.

Do I have a bad bulb or is this expected?


----------



## nielvm

Justin_Rogers said:


> nielvm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I like the settings for most of my HDR movies. Some were really bad with these settings, especially older ones. Not really sure why...
> 
> 
> 
> Wow.. these are my new default settings for HDR!
> 
> They really look great!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks man! I love them as well. Which movies did you test with them?


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> Dave Harper said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you mess with the green a lot when doing your greyscale adjustments?
> 
> 
> 
> When I first tried Orcus's HDR settings for Natural I noticed the green hue without adjusting anything, we put this down to him using an ALR screen & I am using a very neutral 1.0 gain screen.
> 
> Niel on the other hand is using a natural screen but even with his default settings the image still has a green hue.
> 
> Lets take nielvm's settings here are his default custom colour temp settings:
> 
> Offset R – 49
> Offset G – 48
> Offset B – 50
> 
> Gain R – 50
> Gain G – 50
> Gain B – 22
> 
> If I adjust just the custom colour temp settings to get a better grayscale in CalMAN with a meter I get these figures:
> 
> Offset R – 47
> Offset G – 46
> Offset B – 46
> 
> Gain R – 37
> Gain G – 43
> Gain B – 17
> 
> Now lets look at Orcus's default custom colour temp settings:
> 
> 
> Offset R – 45
> Offset G – 48
> Offset B – 43
> 
> 
> Gain R – 50
> Gain G – 40
> Gain B – 52
> 
> Now if I adjust by eye to get the image looking how I think it should I end up with this:
> 
> 
> Offset R – 45
> Offset G – 46
> Offset B – 45
> 
> 
> Gain R – 46
> Gain G – 30
> Gain B – 54
> 
> Both sets of settings I am using the CMS settings provided so all I have changed is the custom colour temp settings & tweaked the brightness & contrast with some HDR clipping patterns.
> 
> I am starting to wonder if my projector is faulty. Problem is I can do an SDR calibration no problem & the image looks great. I have checked my meter profile numerous times to see if this is the issue as well.
Click to expand...

In general one color remains on 50, strange that you lower ALL gain values...


----------



## antr

AdamAttewell said:


> Well I have been playing around for the last couple of hours with trying to adjust the grayscale with CalMAN & I dont seem to be getting anywhere.
> 
> 
> I can get the error down & the grayscale looking decent but when viewing material there is a green hue over the whole image.
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea what I am doing wrong?


You should probably use BT2390 which is described here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DlUM6byDlP0LhJbUZYLsQRBtp8NFr1PL/view


----------



## viperlogic

AdamAttewell said:


> Well I have been playing around for the last couple of hours with trying to adjust the grayscale with CalMAN & I dont seem to be getting anywhere.
> 
> 
> I can get the error down & the grayscale looking decent but when viewing material there is a green hue over the whole image.
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea what I am doing wrong?



I think we discussed seeing green a good while back over on the calibrating 5040/6050 thread here. Our eyes are more susceptible to green than blue and red. As can be seen above, green is a fraction higher in many instances hence you are seeing the green tint. A few of us have green calibrated to be just a tiny bit lower than red and blue if you are more susceptible to it.


----------



## jbarteli

Kev1000000 said:


> Just got my 5040 and loved it for the first 34 hours, but it appears my brightness has nearly halved since the first couple hours on the bulb. Has anyone else experienced such drastic dimming in the first 34 hours of the OG bulb life? I ran on medium power for nearly all of those 34 hours, and now on high, it's not even close to the original brightness on medium at hour 0.
> 
> 
> 
> Do I have a bad bulb or is this expected?


That's not normal, did you maybe went from the natural to one of the cinema settings? This enables the color filter and you will lose light.


----------



## jordanfff

jbarteli said:


> All the settings I tried from here are good, but I still coming back to the settings that aren't in the pdf. I'm sure I got then from this thread.....a while ago.


Hi I really like that image ,what is it from a movie and do you mind sharing your settings.Thanks


----------



## jbarteli

jordanfff said:


> Hi I really like that image ,what is it from a movie and do you mind sharing your settings.Thanks


Its from the hdr demo chess.
Here are the settings. I can not take credit for it, but I don't who the settings are from, I did changed them a little from what I can remember.

I did an overal comparison of all the settings in this thread. I think I like the ORCUS HDR best and the settings below.


----------



## nielvm

Too bad you don't have full p3 in natural mode...


----------



## exm

Hi, I have an Epson 6040 (5040) and just got the Panasonic UB820.

Correct me if I'm wrong for the only settings to change in the UB820:
- Set Color Mode to Ycbr 4:2:2
- Leave Deep COlor Output to Auto (12bit Priority)
- Set HDR TV Type to Basic Luminance

Do I need to set to

HDR/Color Output to SDR/BT.2020 (Auto)
Or
HDR/Color Output to HDR/BT.2020 (Auto)

If I set it to SDR I don't get to use the HDR Settings options. Will the HDR optimizer still work?

I also have Resolution to Auto, 4k60p Off, 24p output Auto, DV Off, HDR10+ On

Anything else I need to change, or anything set incorrectly? Thanks!


----------



## RedPills4All

*Sony UBP-X700 Settings for the 5040UB?*

Can someone point me to recommended settings for the UBP-X700 outputting to the 5040UB? I haven't been able to find anything on it. Thanks in advance!


----------



## jordanfff

jbarteli said:


> Its from the hdr demo chess.
> Here are the settings. I can not take credit for it, but I don't who the settings are from, I did changed them a little from what I can remember.
> 
> I did an overal comparison of all the settings in this thread. I think I like the ORCUS HDR best and the settings below.


Thank you very much for sharing your settings.When you get a chance can you confirm the gamma points by there numbers, just want to make sure I set correctly.Cheers


----------



## jbarteli

nielvm said:


> Too bad you don't have full p3 in natural mode...


Yeah too bad, but I think light is more important with HDR.


----------



## nielvm

Harpervision solves that for us 😁


----------



## jbarteli

jordanfff said:


> thank you very much for sharing your settings.when you get a chance can you confirm the gamma points by there numbers, just want to make sure i set correctly.cheers


0,20,29,31,31,31,30,21,0


----------



## westbergjoakim

nielvm said:


> ...


I can't remember but have you posted your calibrated SDR 1080p settings? If you haven't, would you like to share? I would really like to see them as your HDR settings work so well at my place!


Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

Has anybody streamed "Meridian" on Netflix? It's an experimental film Netflix created to demonstrate how good streamed HDR content can be. Although I usually use nievlm's Cinema or Orcus' Digital Cinema settings, I found "Meridian" showed very well when using just Epson's suggested HDR settings: colour 55, contrast and brightness around 50 (to taste), Bright Cinema, HDR Mode Auto or Auto Bright and using gamma -2 per this thread. I'm amazed how different HDR content shows best using differing sets of settings. For example, Harpervision which I like, did not do well with an iTunes 4K film of Mission Impossible, yet on other content it looks great. Do others experience this too?


----------



## nielvm

westbergjoakim said:


> I can't remember but have you posted your calibrated SDR 1080p settings? If you haven't, would you like to share? I would really like to see them as your HDR settings work so well at my place!
> 
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk




Will note them down next time. Glad you like my settings


----------



## nielvm

avtoronto said:


> Has anybody streamed "Meridian" on Netflix? It's an experimental film Netflix created to demonstrate how good streamed HDR content can be. Although I usually use nievlm's Cinema or Orcus' Digital Cinema settings, I found "Meridian" showed very well when using just Epson's suggested HDR settings: colour 55, contrast and brightness around 50 (to taste), Bright Cinema, HDR Mode Auto or Auto Bright and using gamma -2 per this thread. I'm amazed how different HDR content shows best using differing sets of settings. For example, Harpervision which I like, did not do well with an iTunes 4K film of Mission Impossible, yet on other content it looks great. Do others experience this too?



Yes, for the moment not all movies look vreat with the same settings. Mission impossible was impossible  to get great looking, though the imax scenes were great. Bizar...
Also some of the older hdr movies I have hurt my eyes with my current settings. Waaay oversaturated with x-men days of a future past for example. For the moment my settings seem great with the majority of new hdr movies, for which I'm very glad.


----------



## Kev1000000

jbarteli said:


> That's not normal, did you maybe went from the natural to one of the cinema settings? This enables the color filter and you will lose light.


Nah, I've been on bright cinema since I got the projector. Maybe a bad bulb? Would Epson replace the bulb in this scenario under warranty?


----------



## TravisBean

TravisBean said:


> So when is the successor to the 5040ub due out?



??


----------



## nielvm

In Europe available by march.


----------



## YogiBizz

Any idea on price of the 5040 successor? Im in a bind and dont know if i want to purchase the 5040 with its known issues since its on sale for $2,000 or if i should take a look at the 4050 since its at a similar price point or just wait for the 5040 successor to come out. Thoughts?


----------



## nielvm

In Europe a bit lower than the 6040 when releasing (€2800 vs €3300). The differences aren’t that huge though...


----------



## john hunter

I was about to hang on for the 5040 successor but my Aussie equivalent arrives Wednesday.
Check the helpful posts at Projector Central comparing the 5040 with Epson's latest and what the new one will probably look like.
With an 8ft Scope screen any advantages of the replacement would look minor especially given the current pricing for the 5040.


----------



## Greg Frank

Hi all, 

I just got an HDFury Linker, and I am setting up my Xbox One X and it seems to work for everything but Dobly Vision (assuming it doesn't support that) but if I change it to any color depth above 8-bit it just gives me a blank screen. Is there a way to adjust the HZ so that it will play it at a lower refresh rate but with more color depth or is that not as important as refresh?


----------



## MagnumMafia05

So if I set my shield 4k tv to 4k 30fps it auto changes from SDR and HDR 12bit while watching netflix. So think I'm going send the $200+ linker back when I receive it. My games on xbox looks fine so I'm okay with saving $200 for not having HDR on them.

I lose atmos on netflix not streaming from xbox but I find the upmixer for atmos does very well anyways. 

I have never seen FI un greyed yet even when I had 1080p going to the projector. When do we get to use FI?


----------



## los seres

My older epson projector just bit the dust. I'm torn whether to wait for the new 5050 equivalent to the european TW9400. Or get the 5040ub which is discounted right now and you get a free projector bulb with mail in rebate until Jan 31st.


----------



## westbergjoakim

MagnumMafia05 said:


> So if I set my shield 4k tv to 4k 30fps it auto changes from SDR and HDR 12bit while watching netflix. So think I'm going send the $200+ linker back when I receive it. My games on xbox looks fine so I'm okay with saving $200 for not having HDR on them.
> 
> 
> 
> I lose atmos on netflix not streaming from xbox but I find the upmixer for atmos does very well anyways.
> 
> 
> 
> I have never seen FI un greyed yet even when I had 1080p going to the projector. When do we get to use FI?


Connect a keyboard to the Shield and press F8 to see what Netflix is streaming/output. When I have tried as you described, 4k30hz/4k24hz, I get HDR but only in 1080p.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

westbergjoakim said:


> I can't remember but have you posted your calibrated SDR 1080p settings? If you haven't, would you like to share? I would really like to see them as your HDR settings work so well at my place!
> 
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


Here you go:

Mode natural
Brightness 50
Contrast 50
Saturation 50
Tint 50
Power consumption low
Iris medium
Image enhancement mode 3
Color temp 6500k
Skin tone 4

Green gain 49
Blue gain 41
All rest: 50
Gamma -1
Epson super white on 
CMS:
R 50 49 53
G58 62 41
B 50 48 54
C 50 56 48
M 56 52 46
Y 47 50 51


----------



## richieroro

Does the 5040UB still suffer from power supply failures? Is it worth waiting for the 5050?


----------



## gene4ht

richieroro said:


> Does the 5040UB still suffer from power supply failures? Is it worth waiting for the 5050?


Anecdotal evidence suggests no...but there has never been official acknowledgement/confirmation from Epson that there was even an issue with the power supply much less a permanent fix/resolution.


----------



## sddp

richieroro said:


> Does the 5040UB still suffer from power supply failures? Is it worth waiting for the 5050?


If you don't want to wait till the next gen, you can always buy it from Best buy with their extended warranty with an AMEX (amex add another year of warranty to any existing warranty). I think the longest is either 4 or 5 years + the 1 year from AMEX. So you'd be covered. They usually fix it or if they can't you get a NEW one. But the warranty would be used at that point


----------



## Hal_M

Oledurt said:


> Hello all...
> 
> Firmware 1.11 adds a new tone mapped auto bright HDR 1 mode. I will be having my calibrator come out, and re calibrate digital cinema to see if we can achieve a better result. I have messed around with the gamma on my own and I think there is some potential for a better calibration. Will let you know how things go.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hey, did you ever post your settings after the firmware update? I've been using your original settings and I love them. I know folks have been also using Harpervision and Nielvm's settings, but I still like the direction yours took my picture in. I'll be trying Nielvm's as well, but wanted to make sure I had your most up-to-date settings (unless you've discovered something else altogether).


----------



## MagnumMafia05

Which one is the firmware version on projector info?


----------



## rinse82

Does anyone else experience jaggies on text?

I mainly experience this while watching TV on my Xfinity Box; most noticeable when watching sports, particularly the scoreboard overlay or whenever graphical overlays flash up on the screen that are text heavy. 

Using OrcusVaruna's Natural SDR settings but pretty much has always been this way since I've had the projector, under many different settings.


----------



## inspector

MagnumMafia05 said:


> Which one is the firmware version on projector info?


Top line 113 is the newest.


----------



## MagnumMafia05

inspector said:


> Top line 113 is the newest.


Thanks! Wasnt sure as I didnt see a 1.13 firmware on epson site


----------



## diestler

Thoughts on turning on 4k upscale on Sony UHD X700 player before feeding 1080p SDR blu-rays to the 5040ub? Better to leave upscale off and let the Epson do it's thing with pixel shifting or better to turn on auto 2 and send an upscaled image to the Epson?


----------



## westbergjoakim

nielvm said:


> Here you go:
> 
> 
> 
> Mode natural
> 
> Brightness 50
> 
> Contrast 50
> 
> Saturation 50
> 
> Tint 50
> 
> Power consumption low
> 
> Iris medium
> 
> Image enhancement mode 3
> 
> Color temp 6500k
> 
> Skin tone 4
> 
> 
> 
> Green gain 49
> 
> Blue gain 41
> 
> All rest: 50
> 
> Gamma -1
> 
> Epson super white on
> 
> CMS:
> 
> R 50 49 53
> 
> G58 62 41
> 
> B 50 48 54
> 
> C 50 56 48
> 
> M 56 52 46
> 
> Y 47 50 51


Thanks! I'll try them! 

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## jt7272

diestler said:


> Thoughts on turning on 4k upscale on Sony UHD X700 player before feeding 1080p SDR blu-rays to the 5040ub? Better to leave upscale off and let the Epson do it's thing with pixel shifting or better to turn on auto 2 and send an upscaled image to the Epson?


This is a good question. I have the x800 and I find that I prefer to have it send 1080p to the projector. Ditto for the upscaling in my AVR.

So far I seem to prefer the Epson's upscale/pixel shifting. Another factor here is frame interpolation, as you cannot use it if you are sending a 4k signal to the projector. This is not factor for me, though, as I don't care for the look of frame interpolation.


----------



## Oledurt

Hal_M said:


> Hey, did you ever post your settings after the firmware update? I've been using your original settings and I love them. I know folks have been also using Harpervision and Nielvm's settings, but I still like the direction yours took my picture in. I'll be trying Nielvm's as well, but wanted to make sure I had your most up-to-date settings (unless you've discovered something else altogether).





Hello,


Yes I am still using the same settings, however I did make one huge upgrade that is a real game changer for projectors as far as I am concerned. I purchased the panasonic 4k ub820 player. This player has an HDR Optimizer. From what I understand it has the ability to adjust the HDR on the fly to clear up the issues with movies being too dark on Projectors. I've found this to be true! The shadow detail is much better and those dark scenes don't swallow everything up. Key is you need to make sure that your calibrated picture, not your actual raw nits but the calibrated nit level using the custom gamma reaches 500nits on Masciola's HDR test patterns. The HDR optimizer won't do anything until after 500 nits.


I highly recommend the technology that Panasonic has put in these higher end players, it is truly a game changer for HDR on projection systems. Try it out for yourself you will not be disappointed.


----------



## Hal_M

Oledurt said:


> Hello,
> 
> 
> Yes I am still using the same settings, however I did make one huge upgrade that is a real game changer for projectors as far as I am concerned. I purchased the panasonic 4k ub820 player. This player has an HDR Optimizer. From what I understand it has the ability to adjust the HDR on the fly to clear up the issues with movies being too dark on Projectors. I've found this to be true! The shadow detail is much better and those dark scenes don't swallow everything up. Key is you need to make sure that your calibrated picture, not your actual raw nits but the calibrated nit level using the custom gamma reaches 500nits on Masciola's HDR test patterns. The HDR optimizer won't do anything until after 500 nits.
> 
> 
> I highly recommend the technology that Panasonic has put in these higher end players, it is truly a game changer for HDR on projection systems. Try it out for yourself you will not be disappointed.


Hey thanks. Looks like there's a Panny in my future.


----------



## diestler

Anyone care to share their daytime sports settings? I can get amazing images with blu-ray, uhd, even Netflix. But the compression from Comcast/Xfinity on sports can be brutal when blowing up the image to 125”. Some channels are better than others but some of the smaller cable channels are painful to watch - specifically basketball on distance camera shots (players faces just look like blurry blobs). I realize if the source video/compression stinks I’m never going to make it look amazing, just looking for tips on how to make it look as good as possible. I’ve already turned off 4k enhancement on pj and changed image from fine to fast. Also feeding in 1080 video from Roku instead of 4k upscale. FI is grayed out so not sure if that would help or not. Thanks in advance for any tips you can offer up.


----------



## Juboy

nielvm said:


> Here you go:



Input your SDR settings and watched a few hours of content last night... very impressed indeed, thank you for making them available.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

diestler said:


> Anyone care to share their daytime sports settings? I can get amazing images with blu-ray, uhd, even Netflix. But the compression from Comcast/Xfinity on sports can be brutal when blowing up the image to 125”. Some channels are better than others but some of the smaller cable channels are painful to watch - specifically basketball on distance camera shots (players faces just look like blurry blobs). I realize if the source video/compression stinks I’m never going to make it look amazing, just looking for tips on how to make it look as good as possible. I’ve already turned off 4k enhancement on pj and changed image from fine to fast. Also feeding in 1080 video from Roku instead of 4k upscale. FI is grayed out so not sure if that would help or not. Thanks in advance for any tips you can offer up.




Turn 4K enhancement off, image preset mode off, sharpness to 0 (standard, thick line and thin line enhancement to 0), frame interpolation on to the setting of your liking, image processing to fine. Those settings should yield the best results with compressed cable images. Also if you live in a major metro area I highly recommend picking up an antenna and a converter box for broadcast tv as there is virtually no compression on ota broadcasts. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

Juboy said:


> Input your SDR settings and watched a few hours of content last night... very impressed indeed, thank you for making them available.


Thanks man!

Do you mean the sdr settings for sdr content?
Have you tried my hdr settings with forced sdr?


----------



## Juboy

nielvm said:


> Do you mean the sdr settings for sdr content?
> Have you tried my hdr settings with forced sdr?



I've actually saved both (your SDR with SDR and also HDR with SDR) settings on my PJ. Not had a chance to watch any HDR with your settings as yet but am looking forward to that. Your SDR settings are great, slightly warmer than I'm used to but it looks fantastic on 'real life' content (as opposed to heavily CGI/Sci-Fi type stuff).


----------



## nielvm

Great, thanks! Personally I think my HDR settings are far more impressing. We all know sdr by now...


----------



## GrandPixel

Is there any news of a 5040ub replacement yet? I'm pretty certain it will be soon. I've been searching for CES news but I haven't found anything yet. I'm returning my 4010 to upgrade because the black levels were just really lacking and the picture was washed out. So now I have to decide on the 5040ub for 2099 with free extra lamp, vs whatever the replacement will be - which we have no idea yet about features, specs, availability date, or price. Not sure what to do.


----------



## sddp

GrandPixel said:


> Is there any news of a 5040ub replacement yet? I'm pretty certain it will be soon. I've been searching for CES news but I haven't found anything yet. I'm returning my 4010 to upgrade because the black levels were just really lacking and the picture was washed out. So now I have to decide on the 5040ub for 2099 with free extra lamp, vs whatever the replacement will be - which we have no idea yet about features, specs, availability date, or price. Not sure what to do.



WOW, that is a killer price if its from an Authorized dealer!


For the money and what the 5040 does, it's a no brainer!


I bought my 5040UBE the month it came out for about 3K. Have had no issues, except I've had to watch everything all over again, and quickly trying to update all of my DVD as fast as possible to 3D Blu Ray and if it's not made in 3D, then 4K. Looks ABSOLUTELY stunning on a grey 1.3 ALR 150" screen.


If this unit is mind blowing for it's 4K eShift on BR and 4K disc. I can't image when 8k becomes the norm and hopefully at that time Epson makes an 8K eShift. Think about, if BR disc look so stunning now (even with the shortfall of the limiting bandwidth not getting true 18Gbps and all of the other HDR work arounds). Image what an 8K eShift will do! 
Yes I know it'll have it's own set of limitations all over again, probably won't do 24Gbps bandwidth and won't do some new technology of HDRX1000 and what not.


----------



## rbk123

AdamAttewell said:


> Here are some SDR settings from Orcus:


Just a minor followup (vs. making a request and just going dark - so to speak). I entered Orcus' dark room SDR settings and they turned my 1080p picture quality (on my Epson 4000) from pretty-darn-good to simply _gorgeous_.
I had did some minor tweaking, the biggest being I had to up the brightness some, and I just oogle every time I watch something on it.

Many many thanks to Adam for digging them up for me and for Orcus' hard work in coming up with them. When I get a chance, I'll try Neil's SDR settings since I have so many available memory slots to fill up.

It's tough for me to conceive how HDR is even better, but no doubt it is. Another very happy owner of this model line and it's offspring.


----------



## RacerX135

So I just ordered the Epson 4040

- I am currently using a pt-ae7000 WITH A dARBEE 5000 

- should I sell the Darbee along with the Panasonic Projector or would it be useful for the 4040. Seems the 4040 has tricks of it's own like the obvious pixel shifting.

I did see a few comments on this but they were older so just any updates on this question.

Thanks...

Any thoughts.


----------



## bluer101

RacerX135 said:


> So I just ordered the Epson 4040
> 
> - I am currently using a pt-ae7000 WITH A dARBEE 5000
> 
> - should I sell the Darbee along with the Panasonic Projector or would it be useful for the 4040. Seems the 4040 has tricks of it's own like the obvious pixel shifting.
> 
> I did see a few comments on this but they were older so just any updates on this question.
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> Any thoughts.


Keep the darbee for now and see for yourself. I currently still use my Oppo 103d with darbee for bluray’s. With it set at 35% and Epson enhancement I like the picture.

This picture is 1080p bluray with 4k eshift off, enhancement on 3, and 35% darbee. The screen is 115” diy spandex.


----------



## MagnumMafia05

So do I just keep my xbox x at 4k uhd under settings or should i do the 1080 and have the 4k box checked? Or does it not really matter when playing a 1080p bluray? (***Figured this out***)

Also watching blue PLANET II using the linker.. shows how 8bit sucks with all the banding..

Tried planet earth II and very noticable banding.. I really hope it's just from streaming it on Netflix. Guess I'll go buy the disc and see or this PJ is getting sent back.. that's if they accept it since I already took the UPC off the box for the mail in rebate for the free replacement lamp..:frown:


----------



## Clrkstn68

scottjwoodford said:


> Hey everyone, I just got a 5040ub and I'm trying to determine where to mount this thing. Room is 14 wide, 23 long, 8 ft ceilings. Part of the issue is that I'm not sure on the screen size yet, but I'll be doing either 138" CIH or 158" CIH. I want to mount and project on the empty wall first and play with the seating locations and the screen size before I get the screen. I'm trying to use the Projector Central calculator below, but not really understanding it. Is my goal to get it so it's in the green area? at 21 ft, 138" screen, 2.39, it's right on the edge of the green pattern.


----------



## Juboy

rbk123 said:


> It's tough for me to conceive how HDR is even better, but no doubt it is.



It really is. Like you, I now use Orcus and Neil's settings for SDR but Orcus and Rob's settings for HDR are outstanding. I'm sure Neil's will bring even more to the party. With so many available memory spaces for settings, this projector can look incredible with SDR, HDR and with all types of content at the press of a couple of buttons.


----------



## rbk123

RacerX135 said:


> - should I sell the Darbee along with the Panasonic Projector or would it be useful for the 4040. Seems the 4040 has tricks of it's own like the obvious pixel shifting.


Keep it. I have a 5000S I use with my 4000 and definitely prefer it. Haven't tried it with 4k source yet (I don't have any) but it is better with 1080p source.


----------



## Gazzer55

Juboy said:


> It really is. Like you, I now use Orcus and Neil's settings for SDR but Orcus and Rob's settings for HDR are outstanding. I'm sure Neil's will bring even more to the party. With so many available memory spaces for settings, this projector can look incredible with SDR, HDR and with all types of content at the press of a couple of buttons.


HI - If possible do you have Robs HDR settings handy? I use a version of Orcus settings for Bright Cinema and as long as I increase the brightness closer to 70 for certain movies it looks great on my low gin spandex screen!


----------



## rbk123

Gazzer55 said:


> HI - If possible do you have Robs HDR settings handy? I use a version of Orcus settings for Bright Cinema and as long as I increase the brightness closer to 70 for certain movies it looks great on my low gin spandex screen!


Post #16381 has Rob's HDR settings amongst others.


----------



## --Sclaws

rbk123 said:


> Keep it. I have a 5000S I use with my 4000 and definitely prefer it. Haven't tried it with 4k source yet (I don't have any) but it is better with 1080p source.


I've been using a Darbee for years and its really a great addition, but it won't process 4K.


----------



## AdamAttewell

I agree, Darbee is a great piece of technology, I have it built into my Lumagen but I really do wish they would bring out a version that supports 4K as I don't use it any more but I would love to do so. It really does sharpen the image without it looking over processed.


For those of you that are trying to calibrate your Epson's HDR modes with CalMAN I believe with lots of help from ConnecTEDDD & Dominic Chan over on the calibrating HDR on Epson 5040/6040 projectors thread we have found a bug in which CalMAN reports erroneous readings when using the BT.2390 gamma formulation.


I have lost about a week to this bug as I could not work out why CalMAN was reporting a perfect grayscale but when viewing content it looked very green.


I hope they get this fixed as I have reported it & this helps anyone finding themselves facing the same issue.


----------



## nielvm

I modified my settings a little more. Had too much red in dark skin tones...

Tried to lower red in the offset, but didn’t help much. Red offset is now at 47. Problem seems to be yellow in the cms. I changed the tint to 35.

Crawling towards perfection...


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Can you provide the full list of your lost current settings? Not sure if anything else changed since I last made the PDF for ya.. if not I can create a new one based on these two setting changes 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

The rest should be the same as your pdf, but it can still change some more. Checking with a lot of material and fine tuning...


----------



## avtoronto

rbk123 said:


> Keep it. I have a 5000S I use with my 4000 and definitely prefer it. Haven't tried it with 4k source yet (I don't have any) but it is better with 1080p source.


These projectors do a pretty good job with UHD discs and that led me to the decision to sell my OPPO 103D and buy a Panasonic DP-UB820 with its HDR Optimizer. I sold the OPPO for the same amount the new 820 cost me. No regrets (other than the step down in build quality and its lack of network player capabilities). Very good picture for both SDR and HDR content.


----------



## rbk123

--Sclaws said:


> I've been using a Darbee for years and its really a great addition, but it won't process 4K.


Is yours a 5000s? I had read from various reviews/users that although it's not supposed to work with 4k, it does. But some people, although it worked, get weak signal problems when they use it on 4k.


----------



## rbk123

avtoronto said:


> buy a Panasonic DP-UB820 with its HDR Optimizer.


Someday I'll probably pick one of these up or something similar, when they drop in price. My current HT processor can't pass 4k, so I'd have to go straight to the projector with the 2nd HDMI out (or upgrade my processor, but that's a little ways down the road).


----------



## Keith Ferguson

nielvm said:


> I modified my settings a little more. Had too much red in dark skin tones...
> 
> Tried to lower red in the offset, but didn’t help much. Red offset is now at 47. Problem seems to be yellow in the cms. I changed the tint to 35.
> 
> Crawling towards perfection...


please explain....tint went from 100 to 35?


----------



## rpoulos

*Washed out image, help!*

I’m using a 135” silver ticket screen, white... light controlled room, though ceiling is white. I'm also at a 19 foot throw distance... Epson calculators say 16-27ft throw distance so I'm near the low end so 19 should be fine. 

I’ve tried a half dozen different calibrations (thanks for help on that here), used a calibration disk etc, and I still end up with a picture that lacks contrast and is washed out. 

It seems at this point it’s got to be the screen or the white ceiling? 

Here are a couple pics of my setup, it's hard to simulate what the screen looks like with a photo but this is pretty close... 

will a SI Slate or Elite Cinegrey 5D fix this problem? Any other ideas? thanks!


----------



## madermat

Paint the ceiling or better yet some velvet 4 or 5 feet out makes a huge difference .I have a black ceiling 12 feet high so my screen is farther from the ceiling than yous ,however i have put up 6 feet of velvet and it makes it much better then just flat black paint.You have a great looking room and all depends on what you do in there,if its just for movies the paint color is really hurting the picture quality if its a lights on rec room kinda thin maybe you can do a little darker and that would help.Check out the thread the blacker the theater the better I think its called lots of go tips in there for light control


----------



## nielvm

Keith Ferguson said:


> please explain....tint went from 100 to 35?




Sorry it’s hue in english...


----------



## blipszyc

Sorry if this has been answered before, I tried to search for it, but couldn't find a definitive answer...

UBe - the wireless transmitter - how well does it work for those using it? I understand it needs to be in FRONT of the projector to work. My questions are the following:

What is the max distance to still get a solid signal?
Can the transmitter be lower than where the projector is mounted? (for example, center channel level with the PJ being ceiling mounted)
Is there any delay or lipsync issues and are they correctible in the PJ (or do you use the AVR to fix delay)?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Gazzer55 said:


> HI - If possible do you have Robs HDR settings handy? I use a version of Orcus settings for Bright Cinema and as long as I increase the brightness closer to 70 for certain movies it looks great on my low gin spandex screen!















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

blipszyc said:


> Sorry if this has been answered before, I tried to search for it, but couldn't find a definitive answer...
> 
> 
> 
> UBe - the wireless transmitter - how well does it work for those using it? I understand it needs to be in FRONT of the projector to work. My questions are the following:
> 
> 
> What is the max distance to still get a solid signal?
> 
> Can the transmitter be lower than where the projector is mounted? (for example, center channel level with the PJ being ceiling mounted)
> 
> Is there any delay or lipsync issues and are they correctible in the PJ (or do you use the AVR to fix delay)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.




The UBe transmitter is great but it does need a direct line of sight within about 25 feet or less but it can be lower then the projector. As you can see in the pic below my transmitter is on my media stand. IME it has no lag or sync issues and the image is just as crisp as when I connect a device to it with a cable. 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

rpoulos said:


> I’m using a 135” silver ticket screen, white... light controlled room, though ceiling is white. I'm also at a 19 foot throw distance... Epson calculators say 16-27ft throw distance so I'm near the low end so 19 should be fine.
> 
> I’ve tried a half dozen different calibrations (thanks for help on that here), used a calibration disk etc, and I still end up with a picture that lacks contrast and is washed out.
> 
> It seems at this point it’s got to be the screen or the white ceiling?
> 
> Here are a couple pics of my setup, it's hard to simulate what the screen looks like with a photo but this is pretty close...
> 
> will a SI Slate or Elite Cinegrey 5D fix this problem? Any other ideas? thanks!


For a quick test grab a few $5 black flat bed sheets from Walmart. Pin them up on the ceiling and side walls to see.


----------



## blipszyc

OrcusVaruna said:


> The UBe transmitter is great but it does need a direct line of sight within about 25 feet or less but it can be lower then the projector. As you can see in the pic below my transmitter is on my media stand. IME it has no lag or sync issues and the image is just as crisp as when I connect a device to it with a cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thanks for the info!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

nielvm said:


> Sorry it’s hue in english...




And it’s tint/hue of yellow in cms that is different, not in the main screen.


----------



## Viche

rpoulos said:


> I’m using a 135” silver ticket screen, white... light controlled room, though ceiling is white. I'm also at a 19 foot throw distance... Epson calculators say 16-27ft throw distance so I'm near the low end so 19 should be fine.
> 
> I’ve tried a half dozen different calibrations (thanks for help on that here), used a calibration disk etc, and I still end up with a picture that lacks contrast and is washed out.
> 
> It seems at this point it’s got to be the screen or the white ceiling?
> 
> Here are a couple pics of my setup, it's hard to simulate what the screen looks like with a photo but this is pretty close...
> 
> will a SI Slate or Elite Cinegrey 5D fix this problem? Any other ideas? thanks!



I like the furniture up front. Not sure if you were the one that I'd asked about similar furniture before, but are they Ikea units painted black or something else? Do they hold equipment?



madermat said:


> Paint the ceiling or better yet some velvet 4 or 5 feet out makes a huge difference .I have a black ceiling 12 feet high so my screen is farther from the ceiling than yous ,however i have put up 6 feet of velvet and it makes it much better then just flat black paint.You have a great looking room and all depends on what you do in there,if its just for movies the paint color is really hurting the picture quality if its a lights on rec room kinda thin maybe you can do a little darker and that would help.Check out the thread the blacker the theater the better I think its called lots of go tips in there for light control



How do you attached the velvet to the ceiling to prevent it from drooping? Does it look neat?


----------



## rpoulos

Viche said:


> I like the furniture up front. Not sure if you were the one that I'd asked about similar furniture before, but are they Ikea units painted black or something else? Do they hold equipment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you attached the velvet to the ceiling to prevent it from drooping? Does it look neat?


Those are IKEA Besta cabinets... you can custom with doors or drawers, etc... I've just got doors with one shelf in each... not expensive and these are the black/brown color.


----------



## Mark Smolen

blipszyc said:


> Sorry if this has been answered before, I tried to search for it, but couldn't find a definitive answer...
> 
> UBe - the wireless transmitter - how well does it work for those using it? I understand it needs to be in FRONT of the projector to work. My questions are the following:
> 
> What is the max distance to still get a solid signal?
> Can the transmitter be lower than where the projector is mounted? (for example, center channel level with the PJ being ceiling mounted)
> Is there any delay or lipsync issues and are they correctible in the PJ (or do you use the AVR to fix delay)?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I just got mine about a month ago and love it. I would have had to use over 60ft of HDMI to get to it through the walls/ceiling.
It is line of sight. I have mine in the rack and it sits just below my screen (near the left edge). First tried it behind the screen, but it will not work.
It takes a few seconds to sync up when it first comes on or when a new movie is inserted to the player.
No lip sync or delay issues detected. I run my 4K Sony Player to the Receiver; Receiver to an HDMI splitter (goes to TV and Epson Transmitter).
Transmitter sits 30 above the floor. Projector is ceiling mounted on a 9.5ft ceiling (8.5ft off the floor), so it's about 6 ft lower than the projector.
I have the new monoprice ceiling mount retractable screen that is about 9in in front of the rack of gear and the transmitter sits just below the bottom of the screen (and 9in behind it).
I am very pleased. I have seen one or two "glitches" in the image, but it's hard to know if those are from the disk/data issues or transmitter--not enough/common enough to complain.
The combo of the monoprice screen (#30252) and projector is quite stunning.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

rpoulos said:


> I’m using a 135” silver ticket screen, white... light controlled room, though ceiling is white. I'm also at a 19 foot throw distance... Epson calculators say 16-27ft throw distance so I'm near the low end so 19 should be fine.
> 
> I’ve tried a half dozen different calibrations (thanks for help on that here), used a calibration disk etc, and I still end up with a picture that lacks contrast and is washed out.
> 
> It seems at this point it’s got to be the screen or the white ceiling?
> 
> Here are a couple pics of my setup, it's hard to simulate what the screen looks like with a photo but this is pretty close...
> 
> will a SI Slate or Elite Cinegrey 5D fix this problem? Any other ideas? thanks!


I had a similar room color etc when I first moved into my house that was also fully light controlled.. Painting the walls and ceiling with dark flat paint helped the contrast significantly in my case. 

Here are some pictures from before and after..

Please note I started with a BenQ and have since upgraded to a 5040UB but the pictures should still make the point


----------



## nielvm

If the image is really washed out, check if the HDMI range is set properly...


----------



## rpoulos

nielvm said:


> If the image is really washed out, check if the HDMI range is set properly...


UPDATE: I contacted Epson and sent them a few photos... the rep actually suggested the projector might be defective and authorized a new unit be shipped to me. I didn't even ask for that, and I'm not sure it is defective at all, but he was pretty eager to send me a new one lol. So maybe this will help, dunno... will report back!

If not, I will get to work on try to blackout the area first before changing screens.


----------



## Hal_M

Question: I just received a replacement 5040UB because the one I had developed a blue spot. They sent a refurbished replacement, new bulb. Image looks great, except I'm noticing sometimes on Fade ins and Fade outs, that the fade isn't smooth. It's kind of jittery or seems to change in fragments as opposed to a smooth, clean fade. Does anyone know if this is a setting I have that I can change, or if this is a flaw in the new projector? Never saw it before with the old one. But I'm also using new settings. Currently Orca's settings for both HDR and SDR. Thanks in advance!


----------



## --Sclaws

Hal_M said:


> Question: I just received a replacement 5040UB because the one I had developed a blue spot. They sent a refurbished replacement, new bulb. Image looks great, except I'm noticing sometimes on Fade ins and Fade outs, that the fade isn't smooth. It's kind of jittery or seems to change in fragments as opposed to a smooth, clean fade. Does anyone know if this is a setting I have that I can change, or if this is a flaw in the new projector? Never saw it before with the old one. But I'm also using new settings. Currently Orca's settings for both HDR and SDR. Thanks in advance!


Just a guess, but maybe change your auto iris setting? I prefer it on NORMAL.


----------



## Hal_M

--Sclaws said:


> Just a guess, but maybe change your auto iris setting? I prefer it on NORMAL.


Thanks. I switched it from High Speed to Normal. Will watch some stuff and see how it works. I'll let you know. Fingers crossed.


----------



## Nexgen76

Has anyone tried running MADVR with their Epson 5040 ?


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Nexgen76 said:


> Has anyone tried running MADVR with their Epson 5040 ?


Yep, use it everyday..

Have a GTX 1070 using Kodi DSPlayer / Plex --> Denon AVR-X3400H --> 5040UB

Would be willing to share my settings (1080 and 4K) with you if you want them.. Not sure if this is the right place though.


----------



## knmlee

blipszyc said:


> Sorry if this has been answered before, I tried to search for it, but couldn't find a definitive answer...
> 
> UBe - the wireless transmitter - how well does it work for those using it? I understand it needs to be in FRONT of the projector to work. My questions are the following:
> 
> What is the max distance to still get a solid signal?
> Can the transmitter be lower than where the projector is mounted? (for example, center channel level with the PJ being ceiling mounted)
> Is there any delay or lipsync issues and are they correctible in the PJ (or do you use the AVR to fix delay)?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I find that the wireless transmitter works well, but it is a bit frustrating in my setup. The initial sync takes a few seconds (maybe around 15). That would be fine, but the problem is that every time you change sources or even change channels on a DirecTV box can result in the transmitter having to re-sync. During that delay, the screen goes blank except for a re-sync message. Once the sync is done, the signal is solid and the PQ is fine. I've tried to ensure that the output of all sources is forced to the same resolution, but I still get the re-sync problem.

Mine is about 18 ft away from the projector and it is at the same level as my center channel (well below the height of the projector).

Long term, I hope to get rid of the wireless setup and go back to hard wired. 

The best thing about the UBe is that it is easy to setup and the PQ is very good.


----------



## exm

To all of you who are using an Oppo or Panny passing BT.2020 SDR: are you using the HDR modes on the Epson while displaying HDR? I'm really confused.


----------



## Bmac55

Bmac55 said:


> I don’t know if anyone is keeping score on the power supply issue or not, but I think I might be the newest member of the club. Last night, about 15 minutes into a movie, the screen went dark. Checked the projector and there were no signs of life (no indicator lights) and the lens shutter remained opened. After checking the circuit breakers, unplugging and replugging the projector and scratching my head thoroughly, we decided to watch the movie on the tv as all signs pointed to a catastrophic failure of the projector.
> 
> I haven’t really spent much time on AVS since the fall of 2017 when I purchased the 5040ube. So. until researching the possible causes (and hoping to discover a fix) of my pj’s demise on this forum today, I was unaware of this defect. I mainly watch college football on it and the occasional movie so it doesn’t have many hours on it at all and, accordingly, was perplexed by the failure. Although I’m not happy about the dead projector, I guess there is some comfort in knowing that I am not alone and that Epson is well aware of the problem.
> 
> So, I’ll call Epson tomorrow and get the process started of getting a replacement. Hopefully, I won’t have to repeat this process several times.
> 
> Cheers


I received the replacement from Epson on Tuesday (definitely a refurb) and placed on the same shelf my original sat. The shelf height places the lens approximately level with the top of my screen. I can’t recall having to make any significant adjustments in the image position when setting up my 1st 5040, but when I powered on the replacement tonight, the image was on the ceiling. 

The first thing I checked were the adjustable feet - they were fully retracted. Then I checked the lens shift and keystone adjustments. Nothing I can see will bring the image down for enough to get close to the screen. 

So, before I call Epson tomorrow, am I missing something really obvious? I feel like a dope, but this image is off by a mile and I can’t find or think of an adjustment that will fix it.


----------



## madermat

Viche said:


> I like the furniture up front. Not sure if you were the one that I'd asked about similar furniture before, but are they Ikea units painted black or something else? Do they hold equipment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you attached the velvet to the ceiling to prevent it from drooping? Does it look neat?



you can put it on 1/4 plywood panels maybe 2 feet bye 2 feet ? i did 2x6 foot frames made of 1x2 lumber i have a ceiling that is wood so i can screw in anywhere some people just staple it up ,when lighs are out you cant see if there is a drop or wrinkle.if i can figure it out ill take a pic of mt ceiling and post it in a day or so


----------



## madermat

Bmac55 said:


> I received the replacement from Epson on Tuesday (definitely a refurb) and placed on the same shelf my original sat. The shelf height places the lens approximately level with the top of my screen. I can’t recall having to make any significant adjustments in the image position when setting up my 1st 5040, but when I powered on the replacement tonight, the image was on the ceiling.
> 
> The first thing I checked were the adjustable feet - they were fully retracted. Then I checked the lens shift and keystone adjustments. Nothing I can see will bring the image down for enough to get close to the screen.
> 
> So, before I call Epson tomorrow, am I missing something really obvious? I feel like a dope, but this image is off by a mile and I can’t find or think of an adjustment that will fix it.



there is probaly a choice for ceiling mount or shelf it will invert the image im sure its there some where i dont have a 5040, i think all projectors have that feature


----------



## Gruson

Got my 5040 today. It’s better than my 4000 for sure, especially in dark scenes but I thought the blacks would be even darker. I’m happy with it but for those who don’t want to extra for the 5040, just know the 4000 is very close to it!


----------



## AdamAttewell

If you want to see what white walls do to the contrast of the projected image just take a look at this video.


https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/


Also there review has some great info on how a light controlled room improves PQ.


http://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/


----------



## Juboy

knmlee said:


> I find that the wireless transmitter works well, but it is a bit frustrating in my setup. The initial sync takes a few seconds (maybe around 15). That would be fine, but the problem is that every time you change sources or even change channels on a DirecTV box can result in the transmitter having to re-sync.



That's identical to my experience. The wireless sender works very well but the constant re-connecting can be irritating and isn't the quickest. Mine is about 10ft in front of the projector. Never had the connection drop during viewing.


----------



## Bmac55

madermat said:


> there is probaly a choice for ceiling mount or shelf it will invert the image im sure its there some where i dont have a 5040, i think all projectors have that feature


Even though I did not recall setting the original 5040 on anything other than front projection, in trying to troubleshoot this, I did cycle thru all of the various projection options without correcting the problem.


----------



## Bmac55

madermat said:


> there is probaly a choice for ceiling mount or shelf it will invert the image im sure its there some where i dont have a 5040, i think all projectors have that feature


Even though I did not recall setting the original 5040 on anything other than front projection, in trying to troubleshoot this, I did cycle thru all of the various projection options without correcting the problem.


----------



## boy1dur

*Power supply*

Hey everyone. Been reading this thread forever! Awesome and helpful tips, I thank you. I've had my new 5040 for about a year to date, and I have a tick under 1,000 hours on the first lamp. I notice sporadically now when I power on the PJ that the fan kicks on (higher and louder than normal, like im in high settings), and the lamp itself doesn't turn on at least for 45sec - 1min (this is when the Epson logo finally shows). Am I victim to the dreaded power supply issue? It happens sporadically, like I said. Sometimes it just powers up like normal, but ever so often (and more often than I'd like), this happens. Appreciate the insight!


----------



## gene4ht

boy1dur said:


> Hey everyone. Been reading this thread forever! Awesome and helpful tips, I thank you. I've had my new 5040 for about a year to date, and I have a tick under 1,000 hours on the first lamp. I notice sporadically now when I power on the PJ that the fan kicks on (higher and louder than normal, like im in high settings), and the lamp itself doesn't turn on at least for 45sec - 1min (this is when the Epson logo finally shows). Am I victim to the dreaded power supply issue? It happens sporadically, like I said. Sometimes it just powers up like normal, but ever so often (and more often than I'd like), this happens. Appreciate the insight!


Your question has been repeatedly asked over the course of the last couple of years....

Based on my discussions with Epson support personnel, this behavior is normal...but he could not provide a plausible explanation for this unusual behavior. Owners of previous models have reported this same behavior on their units. My 5040 is two years old and has randomly exhibited this behavior since day one. It’s probably safe to say that it likely has no relationship to the power supply failures.


----------



## kbarnes701

Bmac55 said:


> I received the replacement from Epson on Tuesday (definitely a refurb) and placed on the same shelf my original sat. The shelf height places the lens approximately level with the top of my screen. I can’t recall having to make any significant adjustments in the image position when setting up my 1st 5040, but when I powered on the replacement tonight, the image was on the ceiling.
> 
> The first thing I checked were the adjustable feet - they were fully retracted. Then I checked the lens shift and keystone adjustments. Nothing I can see will bring the image down for enough to get close to the screen.
> 
> So, before I call Epson tomorrow, am I missing something really obvious? I feel like a dope, but this image is off by a mile and I can’t find or think of an adjustment that will fix it.


I take it that you have adjusted the vertical lens shift?


----------



## boy1dur

gene4ht said:


> Your question has been repeatedly asked over the course of the last couple of years....
> 
> Based on my discussions with Epson support personnel, this behavior is normal...but he could not provide a plausible explanation for this unusual behavior. Owners of previous models have reported this same behavior on their units. My 5040 is two years old and has randomly exhibited this behavior since day one. It’s probably safe to say that it likely has no relationship to the power supply failures.


Thanks Gene. Like I said I've been on almost every page of this discussion thread and didn't see it (it's been a few weeks since I've read the most recents, but you know), so I apologize if this is a redundant issue post. Maybe part of me is hoping I have enough of an issue to start using the warranty and eventually have them send a future 5050 unit when all 5040's disappear from inventory?


----------



## Bmac55

kbarnes701 said:


> I take it that you have adjusted the vertical lens shift?


Thank you. Yes, my order of troubleshooting this was to check the adjustable feet on the front (fully retracted), then vertical lens shift, then keystone, and finally cycled thru the different 
prohe ction modes. As far off as the image is, I would have been surprised if any of those would have worked. Apologize for the orientation of the photo (that also emailed to Epson Support).

After repeating all of those procedures for Tier 1 support, they suggested (a) tip the projector toward the floor or (b) mount it on the ceiling. I rejected both options. So, I get to talk to Tier 2 support on Monday.


----------



## Greg Frank

Greg Frank said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I just got an HDFury Linker, and I am setting up my Xbox One X and it seems to work for everything but Dobly Vision (assuming it doesn't support that) but if I change it to any color depth above 8-bit it just gives me a blank screen. Is there a way to adjust the HZ so that it will play it at a lower refresh rate but with more color depth or is that not as important as refresh?


I also noticed that if I play a 4k Blu Ray, the xbox and my OPPO player just show a blank screen but if I disconnect the Linker from the chain, it works fine. , anyone have an idea what is going on?


----------



## RacerX135

bluer101 said:


> Keep the darbee for now and see for yourself. I currently still use my Oppo 103d with darbee for bluray’s. With it set at 35% and Epson enhancement I like the picture.
> 
> This picture is 1080p bluray with 4k eshift off, enhancement on 3, and 35% darbee. The screen is 115” diy spandex.


Wow, That is so clear Cruise actually looks old here.


----------



## AdamAttewell

I watched Mission Impossible Fallout last night & found that it was to dark in some scenes so after I tried checking brightness with the black clipping pattern included with R.Masciola’s HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns and with a brightness of 51 I cant see level 68 barely flashing.


Thing is even with the brightness control at 100 I cant see it flashing either. 



@nielvm I am using your settings with a tweaked two point grayscale, do you use the same patterns for checking brightness? Can you see level 68 flashing?


----------



## nielvm

Yes I also used R. Masciola’s patterns. Will check if I see 64 flashing. In my opinion, it’s not that test that will determin if the image looks dark or not, but rather the usage of a custom gamma or forced sdr.

Mission impossible looked too bright with me...


----------



## RacerX135

rpoulos said:


> I’m using a 135” silver ticket screen, white... light controlled room, though ceiling is white. I'm also at a 19 foot throw distance... Epson calculators say 16-27ft throw distance so I'm near the low end so 19 should be fine.
> 
> I’ve tried a half dozen different calibrations (thanks for help on that here), used a calibration disk etc, and I still end up with a picture that lacks contrast and is washed out.
> 
> It seems at this point it’s got to be the screen or the white ceiling?
> 
> Here are a couple pics of my setup, it's hard to simulate what the screen looks like with a photo but this is pretty close...
> 
> will a SI Slate or Elite Cinegrey 5D fix this problem? Any other ideas? thanks!



I am sure I am the 100th person to respond with this plus you already answered it yourself in your post. PAINT THE CEILING as dark as you are comfortable with. The walls look light in the lighted pic but they seem to darken pretty good when you have the lights off so just darken the ceiling then if you still have the issue look further but just from looking at your pics things will definitely get better once you get that ceiling darker.


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Yes I also used R. Masciola’s patterns. Will check if I see 64 flashing. In my opinion, it’s not that test that will determin if the image looks dark or not, but rather the usage of a custom gamma or forced sdr.
> 
> Mission impossible looked too bright with me...



That's interesting, thanks for having a look for me. The IMAX scenes look amazing but for example when they are purchasing the nuclear devices at the start of the film they get thrown of the floor in front of Tom Cruise. The camera starts at Tom's face & then pans down the the case on the floor at his feet and then to the car with the door open..


I know this scene is supposed to be dark (it's night time after all) but I can barely see the case on the floor. I don't know if it is supposed to be like this or not.


----------



## nielvm

Will check this again on my screen. In general I find that dark details are very visible with my settings.

Do you know the timestamp of this scene?


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Will check this again on my screen. In general I find that dark details are very visible with my settings.
> 
> Do you know the timestamp of this scene?



Its at 9:39.


----------



## nielvm

Ok will try tonight.


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Ok will try tonight.



For me looking at the white & black clipping patterns I am at 65 brightness & contrast 95. In total darkness, no ambient light.


Clipping at 1,011 nits.


----------



## kbarnes701

Bmac55 said:


> Thank you. Yes, my order of troubleshooting this was to check the adjustable feet on the front (fully retracted), then vertical lens shift, then keystone, and finally cycled thru the different
> prohe ction modes. As far off as the image is, I would have been surprised if any of those would have worked. Apologize for the orientation of the photo (that also emailed to Epson Support).
> 
> After repeating all of those procedures for Tier 1 support, they suggested (a) tip the projector toward the floor or (b) mount it on the ceiling. I rejected both options. So, I get to talk to Tier 2 support on Monday.


After all that, it does sound as if the unit has a fault. With the vertical shift in the center position and the PJ mounted horizontally, the image should line up normally.

When it arrived did it have the yellow rubbery protective lens mount thing in place?


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> For me looking at the white & black clipping patterns I am at 65 brightness & contrast 95. In total darkness, no ambient light.
> 
> 
> Clipping at 1,011 nits.




65 brightness is too high with my settings imo... I found that there is a difference between test patterns and what you see in movies. 

For Black crush it’s not enough to look at the flashing bars. If you don’t have a custom gamma or forced sdr, the image stays too long in the dark regions, theoretically not crushing anything, but while watching a movie everything seems clipped because the differences between the details are way too small.

For color I found the skin tones too red, although greyscale and cms seemed very good according to the measurements. That’s why I changed yellow on sight, with a nice result.

I’m extremely happy with the end result, only point I’m hesitating about are the light brown skin tones, which seem a bit too green. When I adjust this, however, white skin tones become too red again.

Overall extremely vibrant and lifelike picture with a lot of depth on my 9ft wide screen with only medium lamp mode.


----------



## rpoulos

Appreciate everyone’s replies thus far to my washed out screen issue... here’s a couple pics of Elite Screen materials versus the current Silver Ticket white. From left to right they are: cinegrey 5d, cinewhite, cinegrey.

It seems like cinegrey looks best in film scene, but hard to tell without putting a larger version up.


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> Its at 9:39.




Just checked, brightness might be better at 52 according to the test pattern, but at 48 it is just about visible.

Sure you have dynamic range at sdr? If it is at hdr1, you only see the 68 bar at brightness 58-60

The briefcase is visible, don’t really have problems with that scène...


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Just checked, brightness might be better at 52 according to the test pattern, but at 48 it is just about visible.
> 
> Sure you have dynamic range at sdr? If it is at hdr1, you only see the 68 bar at brightness 58-60
> 
> The briefcase is visible, don’t really have problems with that scène...




Yup Dynamic Range set to SDR, interesting about the test patterns, I am used to SDR & being able to just set up contrast and brightness with a test pattern and that was it.


At 52 with the black clipping pattern I cant see anything flashing until level 103.


----------



## nielvm

I can’t see why that clipping point would be so different with our projectors...


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> I can’t see why that clipping point would be so different with our projectors...



Are all the walls & ceiling around your screen black? My room has the walls & ceiling cover with devore black fabric.


I will double check all my settings tomorrow & take some pictures.
*
*


----------



## nielvm

Yes, room is pitch Black, but even that wouldn’t explane that hughe difference.


----------



## Bmac55

kbarnes701 said:


> After all that, it does sound as if the unit has a fault. With the vertical shift in the center position and the PJ mounted horizontally, the image should line up normally.
> 
> When it arrived did it have the yellow rubbery protective lens mount thing in place?


No, it was in a plain brown box labeled "Refurbished" with black foam packing material.


----------



## avscottso

My 5040UB will be one year old in two weeks. It's my only display. Today, when the original lamp reached 3089 hours, mostly on High Power Consumption, I decided it was time to change it for a new one.

The image is now brighter. It's not an earth shattering difference, but it is better. It's probably about the same difference as going from Med power to High power, but this is just a seat-of-the-pants measurement.


----------



## antr

AdamAttewell said:


> I watched Mission Impossible Fallout last night & found that it was to dark in some scenes so after I tried checking brightness with the black clipping pattern included with R.Masciola’s HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns and with a brightness of 51 I cant see level 68 barely flashing.
> 
> 
> Thing is even with the brightness control at 100 I cant see it flashing either.
> 
> 
> 
> @nielvm I am using your settings with a tweaked two point grayscale, do you use the same patterns for checking brightness? Can you see level 68 flashing?


Did a complete new HDR calibration this weekend with calman (BT2390) and mascioals patterns that turned out really well.
General:
Digital cinema
BT2020
SDR
Power consuption medium
Super white off
Auto Iris: off ( if you have this on during calibration you will have inconsistant data)

What I found out is that after brigtness setting you need to set customized gamma as best as you can refering to EOTF otherwise RGB balance was almost impossible.

*Workflow*
Brigtness
Contrast
Gamma
Brigtness, now you definitly should be able too see 68 barely flash
White point
RGBCMY

Neither of nielvm, harpervision and other suggestions was not working for me.


----------



## kbarnes701

Bmac55 said:


> No, it was in a plain brown box labeled "Refurbished" with black foam packing material.


The yellow insert is to protect the lens from movement in transit. It should have been in place. Maybe that is what has caused the problem?


----------



## jbarteli

antr said:


> Did a complete new HDR calibration this weekend with calman (BT2390) and mascioals patterns that turned out really well.
> 
> General:
> 
> Digital cinema
> 
> BT2020
> 
> SDR
> 
> Power consuption medium
> 
> Super white off
> 
> Auto Iris: off ( if you have this on during calibration you will have inconsistant data)
> 
> 
> 
> What I found out is that after brigtness setting you need to set customized gamma as best as you can refering to EOTF otherwise RGB balance was almost impossible.
> 
> 
> 
> *Workflow*
> 
> Brigtness
> 
> Contrast
> 
> Gamma
> 
> Brigtness, now you definitly should be able too see 68 barely flash
> 
> White point
> 
> RGBCMY
> 
> 
> 
> Neither of nielvm, harpervision and other suggestions was not working for me.


Would you like to share your complete settings?


----------



## antr

jbarteli said:


> Would you like to share your complete settings?


shure, but it will take until weekend when i'm back home...


----------



## jbarteli

antr said:


> shure, but it will take until weekend when i'm back home...


No problem, thanx


----------



## AdamAttewell

antr said:


> Did a complete new HDR calibration this weekend with calman (BT2390) and mascioals patterns that turned out really well.
> 
> Neither of nielvm, harpervision and other suggestions was not working for me.



How did you go about customizing gamma as best as you can referring to EOTF? 



From what data I have given to Ted he tells me that something is wrong with CalMAN when I use BT2390. 



We used HCFR to compare data from CalMAN & it did not match suggesting that something is wrong with what CalMAN is reporting.


----------



## antr

AdamAttewell said:


> How did you go about customizing gamma as best as you can referring to EOTF?
> 
> 
> 
> From what data I have given to Ted he tells me that something is wrong with CalMAN when I use BT2390.
> 
> 
> 
> We used HCFR to compare data from CalMAN & it did not match suggesting that something is wrong with what CalMAN is reporting.


I did not notice similar issue as you have done using BT2390.


----------



## AdamAttewell

antr said:


> I did not notice similar issue as you have done using BT2390.





Did you cross check your results with HCFR afterwards?


Also how did you go about adjusting the gamma to align with EOFT? What patterns did you use?


----------



## jt7272

rpoulos said:


> Appreciate everyone’s replies thus far to my washed out screen issue... here’s a couple pics of Elite Screen materials versus the current Silver Ticket white. From left to right they are: cinegrey 5d, cinewhite, cinegrey.
> 
> It seems like cinegrey looks best in film scene, but hard to tell without putting a larger version up.


I have gone down the same exact road as you. I have the same problem with wash-out on bright scenes and it is 100% due to my white ceiling. I have a white cathedral ceiling (lots of surface area) that just bounces light everywhere.

I have also experimented with ALR screen samples but none had a big effect. I temporarily placed a piece of black fabric across some of my exposed beams (covering an area of the ceiling equivalent to 4ft from the screen) and voila: problem solved. It was a huge difference.

I have to agree with others here that you have only one good option: darken the ceiling. At least your ceiling is low and flat. It allows both permanent and temporary options.

I am in the unfortunate situation where I am now building a diy motorized shade (about 10 feet wide) to black out my ceiling when I use my projector.


----------



## AdamAttewell

So here is some images between neilvm's default settings & mine just adjusting the brightness & contrast with auto iris off.


White clipping


Niel










Me:










Black clipping


Niel












Me:










M I Fallout:


Niel:










Me:


----------



## nielvm

You mean you adjusted my settings only using contrast and brightness?

With the Black clipping my bars are way more visible at 48.


----------



## nielvm




----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> You mean you adjusted my settings only using contrast and brightness?
> 
> With the Black clipping my bars are way more visible at 48.



Yes using your exact settings other than adjustments to brightness, contrast & adjustment to the two point colour temp controls


----------



## MagnumMafia05

kbarnes701 said:


> The yellow insert is to protect the lens from movement in transit. It should have been in place. Maybe that is what has caused the problem?



Mine didnt have this and i only had mine for 2 weeks.


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> Yes using your exact settings other than adjustments to brightness, contrast & adjustment to the two point colour temp controls


My image at 48 looks more like your adjusted image. Strange that there would be so much difference between models, or perheps the difference between the tw9300 and ub5040?


----------



## antr

AdamAttewell said:


> Did you cross check your results with HCFR afterwards?
> 
> 
> Also how did you go about adjusting the gamma to align with EOFT? What patterns did you use?


No haven't used HCFR... have been using Calman for many years and have not seen any other need

Using calman workflow in masciolas patterns will give you exactly the same workflow as HDR10 selected within Calman
Than when you come to greyscale you will have EOTF in parallell.... use than customized gamma by graph in TW9300 but you can't leavi it on screen when taking new shots... it will have a negative impact.
EOTF will probably not end up as target but you can't have a fixed gamma like 2 since that will not be even close from what you can acceive


----------



## Bmac55

kbarnes701 said:


> The yellow insert is to protect the lens from movement in transit. It should have been in place. Maybe that is what has caused the problem?


Maybe that's what it was. Epson is sending replacement #2 tomorrow. 

Although this has been somewhat of a nuisance, I must say customer support has been great.


----------



## roland6465

Bmac55 said:


> Maybe that's what it was. Epson is sending replacement #2 tomorrow.
> 
> Although this has been somewhat of a nuisance, I must say customer support has been great.



They're quick, yes, but after a power supply issue with an 11 month old unit, I received 4 different defective refurbs, with issues ranging from a frozen zoom wheel to dead pixels, and a new replacement with a dust blob before I finally got another new unit that I sold to a friend who owns a bar for a minimal loss. Good luck!


----------



## kbarnes701

Bmac55 said:


> Maybe that's what it was. Epson is sending replacement #2 tomorrow.
> 
> Although this has been somewhat of a nuisance, I must say customer support has been great.


I had the same experience. Bad that the unit had the PSU problem in the first place but faultless customer service afterwards. I opted for a replacement unit instead of a warranty repair, but afterwards wished I'd gone for the repair since I'd had the PJ professionally calibrated. Also, a repaired unit would definitely not have the same problem all over again. Glad you got a good result anyway.


----------



## AdamAttewell

At 300 hours my lamp started flickering, I contacted Epson & they are going to send a replacement free of charge. I cant complain with their customer service either.


----------



## Keith Ferguson

nielvm said:


> And it’s tint/hue of yellow in cms that is different, not in the main screen.


I am sorry but i am so lost what you mean by this. I have your yellow settings as 20,83,50. what gets changed to 35?


----------



## jbarteli

Keith Ferguson said:


> I am sorry but i am so lost what you mean by this. I have your yellow settings as 20,83,50. what gets changed to 35?


20.


----------



## nielvm

The 20


----------



## Keith Ferguson

nielvm said:


> The 20


does tint stay at 100?
thanks guys


----------



## nielvm

In the main screen: yes.


----------



## welldun

OrcusVaruna said:


> Absolutely I have actually had better luck setting brightness for hdr correctly with the brightness calibrator in ea games like assassins creed and destiny then I have with hdr patterns lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Orcus,
are there any 4k UHD movie discs that have brightness calibrators like the EA games? I remember the Wall-E Blu-ray had something similar, would be good to find a UHD disc with this feature.


----------



## Gruson

5040 has 2 hours on it and randomly turned itself off. Turned it on again and seems ok but is this a sign of the power issue I have heard about?


----------



## avscottso

Gruson said:


> 5040 has 2 hours on it and randomly turned itself off. Turned it on again and seems ok but is this a sign of the power issue I have heard about?


When mine was around 6 months old it began shutting off after about a half hour. I checked the settings frequently for several days, then started checking all the other components. I found a sleep setting on the Apple TV4K had been set to shut off after 30 minutes, which I never set. I changed the setting and the 5040 never shut off by itself again.

I'm not saying this is what your situation is because more info is needed to determine what's going on, but you might want to check sleep settings on the 5040 and other components that use CEC or something similar.


----------



## MJ DOOM

Gruson said:


> 5040 has 2 hours on it and randomly turned itself off. Turned it on again and seems ok but is this a sign of the power issue I have heard about?


Manufacturing date?


----------



## Gruson

How can I tell the manufacture date? Looked in settings and don’t see it.


----------



## Gruson

Also, can someone confirm what text is on the power cable? I want to make sure Inhave the correct cable hooked up. Thanks!


----------



## jsrdlr

avscottso said:


> When mine was around 6 months old it began shutting off after about a half hour. I checked the settings frequently for several days, then started checking all the other components. I found a sleep setting on the Apple TV4K had been set to shut off after 30 minutes, which I never set. I changed the setting and the 5040 never shut off by itself again.
> 
> I'm not saying this is what your situation is because more info is needed to determine what's going on, but you might want to check sleep settings on the 5040 and other components that use CEC or something similar.


Same thing here, AppleTV 4K was shutting it off.


----------



## GrandPixel

MJ DOOM said:


> Manufacturing date?


Were there different revisions of the 5040UB? Did they fix the power supply issues? I just purchased a 5040UB and would like to know if the manufacture date tells me anything about that.


----------



## GrandPixel

Cross-posting my projector buying experience in appropriate threads...

I purchased the Epson HC4010, installed it, used it for a few days, and the lack of contrast because of high black levels bothered me. I returned it and purchased the HC5040UB, which is now basically the same price as the 4010 because of the sale and free lamp - I think Epson plans to replace the 5040 with a new model soon.

I installed the 5040UB and immediately noticed the lower black levels in almost every scene, which gave the picture greater contrast and looks far better.

When projectorcentral compares the two projectors and talks about black levels, they basically say the difference is not small. Here is their conclusion: "The HC5040 has better contrast and, especially, lower black levels that far exceed the capabilities of the HC4010, but which are really only brought to bear on very dark scenes, and in dark-room theater viewing. On most bright or mixed material, or in even moderate ambient light, both projectors are close in contrast performance."

However, I don't have a light-controlled room (yet) and I have a white ceiling (for now) and I have to say, I immediately noticed the higher contrast in just about every scene except where the entire image is bright. Think of it like upgrading a TV half-way from LCD to OLED. In this price range, especially with 5040 sale prices, the 5040UB is a no-brainer.


----------



## GrandPixel

Now that I have my new 5040UB installed, what is the best way to go about calibrating this thing for best picture?


----------



## MJ DOOM

GrandPixel said:


> MJ DOOM said:
> 
> 
> 
> Manufacturing date?
> 
> 
> 
> Were there different revisions of the 5040UB? Did they fix the power supply issues? I just purchased a 5040UB and would like to know if the manufacture date tells me anything about that.
Click to expand...

Somebody on here mention that at the Cedia Expo last year, they spoke to a Epson representative and they was told the power supply issue was resolved. That last was September, so take that how you want. Usually most manufacturer build date are listed by the serial number directly on unit or on the box. Don't own a Epson projector.


----------



## Gruson

Sleep mode at 30 was on and now it doesn’t shut off. Thought thst would work if no signal for 30 minutes but apparently shuts down no matter what.


----------



## OGZimba

roland6465 said:


> They're quick, yes, but after a power supply issue with an 11 month old unit, I received 4 different defective refurbs, with issues ranging from a frozen zoom wheel to dead pixels, and a new replacement with a dust blob before I finally got another new unit that I sold to a friend who owns a bar for a minimal loss. Good luck!


My original unit died. The refurb they sent me had issues, so refurb #2 did the job. Or so I thought. I've recently noticed that my projector is now flickering in eco mode (and it's not the dynamic iris), as well my projector is getting noticeably louder.

Has anyone noticed flickering in eco mode? I'm worried it's a power supply issue.


----------



## Hal_M

OrcusVaruna said:


> No harm in trying the cms settings... Personally I would try using them and adjust for your screen using the color temp offsets. Unfortunately every adjustment on this projector greatly affects other settings. For instance by not using my cms settings it will throw off brightness and contrast along with the color just being plain wrong. That is why I recommend if you’re going to use my settings use the offsets. They have the most affect on color pushes induced by screen differences in the smallest value adjustments. Being that we are horrendous at judging color but great at discerning small changes in contrast this is the best approach imo for adapting others settings for your own use. Also, see below for the digital cinema settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've been using Orcus Digital Cinema HDR settings and loving it. Haven't tried the Natural setting yet. Do people have a preference? Also, I saw it mentioned that on a regular 1.0 screen, that Orcus settings can sway a little toward green. I've been playing around and experimenting with slight adjustments (bringing down the green, adding a little more blue, bringing the Tint down to 30...). Wondering if anyone has found color settings for Orcus for a 1.0 screen that they really like. About to watch the 2001: A SPACE ODYSSEY 4K disc and really want to get the colors as close as possible to the intended image.


----------



## Tweakophyte

About to mount my PJ. I have a Premier Mounts MAG-PRO, which is universal and has 4 spider legs. Which is the best 4 holes to pick? I am going to use the diagonal 4 that make a square for now.

Thanks,


----------



## Tweakophyte

Tweakophyte said:


> About to mount my PJ. I have a Premier Mounts MAG-PRO, which is universal and has 4 spider legs. Which is the best 4 holes to pick? I am going to use the diagonal 4 that make a square for now.
> 
> Thanks,


Mounted... using the first and third sets on the rows of four mounting screws. The legs are fine, but I think I will look for an upgrade.

Question for the board. My PJ did not come with a back cover for the inputs. In addition, the lens cover was only partially closed. Is that normal?

I played a little Spiderman Homecoming 4K and some Ant Man 3D... loved it. I'm using OOTB settings until I try some of the setting on here. Too bad the first page of this thread does not have a summary.


----------



## srkmish

Hey Guys. Has the "not turning on" problem been resolved with new units? Should I buy from Amazon or Epson?


----------



## ac388

I imagine there are 5040 users here that are using the Panasonic UB820 player as well. Can someone share the proper setting on the UB820 with this projector ?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## gene4ht

Tweakophyte said:


> About to mount my PJ. I have a Premier Mounts MAG-PRO, which is *universal and has 4 spider legs.*





Tweakophyte said:


> Mounted... using the first and third sets on the rows of four mounting screws. *The legs are fine, but I think I will look for an upgrade*.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48956017

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48961433



Tweakophyte said:


> Question for the board. My PJ did not come with a back cover for the inputs.


AFAIK...the cover only comes with the 6040 in black...but I think it may be available as an option at cost.



Tweakophyte said:


> In addition, the lens cover was only partially closed. * Is that normal?*


No...if it doesn't close completely...give Epson a call.


----------



## monkaquinas

ac388 said:


> I imagine there are 5040 users here that are using the Panasonic UB820 player as well. Can someone share the proper setting on the UB820 with this projector ?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Welcome to the club. 
- HDR/Color Output to SDR/BT.2020 (Auto)
- Set Color Mode to Ycbr 4:2:2
- Leave Deep COlor Output to Auto (12bit Priority)
- Set HDR TV Type to Basic Luminance
- Resolution to Auto, 4k60p Off, 24p output Auto, DV Off, HDR10+ Off


----------



## Tweakophyte

gene4ht said:


> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48956017
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48961433
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK...the cover only comes with the 6040 in black...but I think it may be available as an option at cost.


Thanks! I happened to find those threads and already have one on the way. I am most interested in having it closer to the ceiling than my current mount allows, but the apparent added security is a plus. This PJ is much more massive than the Panny AX200 it replaced.




gene4ht said:


> No...if it doesn't close completely...give Epson a call.


I should clarify. The lens cover closed after use last night, however, when I took it out of the box it was 2/3 of the way open. That's my concern. In addition, the input-port cover is missing, so I am now a little paranoid. Note, the vendor is highly-credible, so I am sure I can swap or just get the part sent. I just need to understand what is bad or not.

Thanks again!


----------



## Tweakophyte

monkaquinas said:


> Welcome to the club.
> - HDR/Color Output to SDR/BT.2020 (Auto)
> - Set Color Mode to Ycbr 4:2:2
> - Leave Deep COlor Output to Auto (12bit Priority)
> - Set HDR TV Type to Basic Luminance
> - Resolution to Auto, 4k60p Off, 24p output Auto, DV Off, HDR10+ Off


Yay! Was going to ask. Does that open up the slider on the player? These are the setting I am using, I can't seem to find that HDR slider option. 

What setting on the PJ are you using (or have tried)?

Thx


----------



## monkaquinas

Tweakophyte said:


> Yay! Was going to ask. Does that open up the slider on the player? These are the setting I am using, I can't seem to find that HDR slider option.
> 
> What setting on the PJ are you using (or have tried)?
> 
> Thx


Correct, with the SDR output, the HDR button requires a long press to open the settings (Option button) does the same. You then use the luminescence slider to make adjustments. I'm used Orcus Natural 4k settings with a calibration pass (no meter). I'll find a link to my post from late last year for you to try.


----------



## monkaquinas

Tweakophyte said:


> Yay! Was going to ask. Does that open up the slider on the player? These are the setting I am using, I can't seem to find that HDR slider option.
> 
> What setting on the PJ are you using (or have tried)?
> 
> Thx


Hope this helps you on the path to 4k Nirvana.


monkaquinas said:


> I upgraded to the 5040UB in April and have been upgrading the components through my systems to get to 4K and finally added the UB820 a couple of weeks ago. I’ve enjoyed Rob’s and Orcus video settings and finally decided to jump into a calibration of my own (no light meter or cal SW).
> I used the DVE, Spears, and WOW discs to dial in the SDR/BT2020 video based on a recommendation from Kris and his testing of the 820 and its tone mapping. My first pass was with the DVE and then the Spears disc, and finally the WOW disc that has great video tests from actual movies.
> I discovered a big red push with Surrogates and Pirates and I used the 820 to dial it back under a second profile. It seemed better, still bothers me that I had to set 2 SDR settings in the 820 after dialing in the 5040.
> I then pulled up the Masciola HDR patterns and ran thru them to ensure that there wasn’t anything too off. Below are my settings while watching John Wick UHD. I need to figure out Gamma and how it affects the image and do another pass. Any advice or suggestions are appreciated.


----------



## ac388

*Ub820*

Thanks. Is it I have to select SDR on 5040 ? Also, do u turn on the Optomizer on the 820 too ?



monkaquinas said:


> Welcome to the club.
> - HDR/Color Output to SDR/BT.2020 (Auto)
> - Set Color Mode to Ycbr 4:2:2
> - Leave Deep COlor Output to Auto (12bit Priority)
> - Set HDR TV Type to Basic Luminance
> - Resolution to Auto, 4k60p Off, 24p output Auto, DV Off, HDR10+ Off


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> My image at 48 looks more like your adjusted image. Strange that there would be so much difference between models, or perheps the difference between the tw9300 and ub5040?



Sorry I have not got back to you sooner, I have not had time to start calibrating & testing settings out but I have just started looking at them again & what you said got me thinking. I mean your right even though there are differences projector to projector I would not have thought it would be as much as our differences.

So I decided to clear your memory & re-enter all your settings again from scratch & then check the black & white clipping patterns. I double checked to make sure I entered them all correctly.

With brightness at 52 & contrast at 100 I still cannot see level 68 barely flashing I need to increase brightness to 57 & that is probably a little to low. Its hard to get this setting right as the Epson menus are very bright causing the iris in your eyes to constrict which makes your ability to perceive these very dark black details impossible.

Even after waiting for five minutes for my eyes to re-adjust, if level 68 is flashing it is only very slightly. 

With contrast at 100 on the white clipping pattern I get 1,108 nit level flashing so no problems there.

I am going to try & calibrate the grayscale using only the two point controls & then I will check the black & white clipping patterns to see if they are effected.


Just for reference here are the settings I am using:


Color mode cinema

Brightness 52
Contrast 100
Satuation 58
Tint 100
Lamp medium

Dynamic range sdr

Gamma 0; -21; -32; -32; -32; -29; -22; +22; +32

Super white Off

R 22 60 52
G 48 63 50
B 47 66 50
C 27 67 50
M 44 50 50
Y 29 87 50

Image enhancement preset 4

Colour temp 5
Tint 3

Custom
49 48 50 50 50 22


----------



## AdamAttewell

ac388 said:


> Thanks. Is it I have to select SDR on 5040 ? Also, do u turn on the Optomizer on the 820 too ?



Welcome to the club. 
- HDR/Color Output to SDR/BT.2020 (Auto)
- Set Color Mode to Ycbr 4:2:2
- Leave Deep COlor Output to Auto (12bit Priority)
- Set HDR TV Type to Basic Luminance
- Resolution to Auto, 4k60p Off, 24p output Auto, DV Off, HDR10+ Off


These settings are incorrect if you want to view HDR content & use the optimiser. They need to be as follows:

- HDR/Color Output to HDR/BT.2020 (Auto)
- Set Color Mode to YCbCr (Auto)
- Deep Color Output to Auto (12bit Priority)
- Set HDR TV Type to Middle or High Luminance LCD



These settings will allows the optimiser to work correctly & give you the option of letting either the player or the projector to provide tone mapping depending on how you have your settings configured on your projector & player.


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> Sorry I have not got back to you sooner, I have not had time to start calibrating & testing settings out but I have just started looking at them again & what you said got me thinking. I mean your right even though there are differences projector to projector I would not have thought it would be as much as our differences.
> 
> So I decided to clear your memory & re-enter all your settings again from scratch & then check the black & white clipping patterns. I double checked to make sure I entered them all correctly.
> 
> With brightness at 52 & contrast at 100 I still cannot see level 68 barely flashing I need to increase brightness to 57 & that is probably a little to low. Its hard to get this setting right as the Epson menus are very bright causing the iris in your eyes to constrict which makes your ability to perceive these very dark black details impossible.
> 
> Even after waiting for five minutes for my eyes to re-adjust, if level 68 is flashing it is only very slightly.
> 
> With contrast at 100 on the white clipping pattern I get 1,108 nit level flashing so no problems there.
> 
> I am going to try & calibrate the grayscale using only the two point controls & then I will check the black & white clipping patterns to see if they are effected.
> 
> 
> Just for reference here are the settings I am using:
> 
> 
> Color mode cinema
> 
> Brightness 52
> Contrast 100
> Satuation 58
> Tint 100
> Lamp medium
> 
> Dynamic range sdr
> 
> Gamma 0; -21; -32; -32; -32; -29; -22; +22; +32
> 
> Super white Off
> 
> R 22 60 52
> G 48 63 50
> B 47 66 50
> C 27 67 50
> M 44 50 50
> Y 29 87 50
> 
> Image enhancement preset 4
> 
> Colour temp 5
> Tint 3
> 
> Custom
> 49 48 50 50 50 22




Now I get it. You are using my previous settings. Since then I made a new one with the gamma at -2. Look for that settjng please, that one is much better imo.


----------



## avtoronto

AdamAttewell said:


> Welcome to the club.
> - HDR/Color Output to SDR/BT.2020 (Auto)
> - Set Color Mode to Ycbr 4:2:2
> - Leave Deep COlor Output to Auto (12bit Priority)
> - Set HDR TV Type to Basic Luminance
> - Resolution to Auto, 4k60p Off, 24p output Auto, DV Off, HDR10+ Off
> 
> 
> These settings are incorrect if you want to view HDR content & use the optimiser. They need to be as follows:
> 
> - HDR/Color Output to HDR/BT.2020 (Auto)
> - Set Color Mode to YCbCr (Auto)
> - Deep Color Output to Auto (12bit Priority)
> - Set HDR TV Type to Middle or High Luminance LCD
> 
> 
> 
> These settings will allows the optimiser to work correctly & give you the option of letting either the player or the projector to provide tone mapping depending on how you have your settings configured on your projector & player.


And herein lies the dilemma: there are two separate schools of thought on the 820's settings.


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Now I get it. You are using my previous settings. Since then I made a new one with the gamma at -2. Look for that settjng please, that one is much better imo.



Right, so to confirm with you again these are the settings you want me to try:

Settings nielvm HDR 

Colour mode Cinema 
Brightness 48 
Contrast 100 
Colour saturation 80 
Tint 100 
Sharpness 5,5,5 

Colour temp 5 
Skin tone 3 

Customized Colour Temp 

Offset R 49 - Offset G 49 - Offset B 50
Gain R 50 - Gain G 50 - Gain B 27 

Image Enhancement: Image Preset Mode 5 
Gamma: -2 

R 32, 79, 50
G 48, 93, 50 
B 47, 73, 50 
C 25, 87, 50 
M 43, 87, 50 
Y 20, 83, 50 

Super White off 
Lens Iris 0 
Power Consumption Medium 
Auto Iris Normal 
Signal Advanced Menu HDMI Video Range - Dynamic Range SDR


----------



## Lithium

ac388 said:


> I imagine there are 5040 users here that are using the Panasonic UB820 player as well. Can someone share the proper setting on the UB820 with this projector ?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


For HDR content I personally recommend running HarperVision. The 820 can then be set to hdr/color output Auto, a display type of Middle Luminance, and HDR Optimizer On. This maps all content to 1000nits, which is pretty darn close to HarperVision which is calibrated to about 1100nits. You can then use the HDR adjustment slider a click or two to adjust to preference.

HarperVision settings (I use w/oledurt suggestions) can be found here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> Right, so to confirm with you again these are the settings you want me to try:
> 
> Settings nielvm HDR
> 
> Colour mode Cinema
> Brightness 48
> Contrast 100
> Colour saturation 80
> Tint 100
> Sharpness 5,5,5
> 
> Colour temp 5
> Skin tone 3
> 
> Customized Colour Temp
> 
> Offset R 49 - Offset G 49 - Offset B 50
> Gain R 50 - Gain G 50 - Gain B 27
> 
> Image Enhancement: Image Preset Mode 5
> Gamma: -2
> 
> R 32, 79, 50
> G 48, 93, 50
> B 47, 73, 50
> C 25, 87, 50
> M 43, 87, 50
> Y 20, 83, 50
> 
> Super White off
> Lens Iris 0
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris Normal
> Signal Advanced Menu HDMI Video Range - Dynamic Range SDR




Yes, only the yellow tint went from 20 to 35...


----------



## Justin_Rogers

nielvm said:


> Yes, only the yellow tint went from 20 to 35...


So red offset is still at 49 rather than 47? 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## nielvm

Justin_Rogers said:


> So red offset is still at 49 rather than 47?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk




Re-checked everything with the settings above.

Differences:
As said yellow tint 35 and not 20
Red brightness in cms 44 and not 50
Red offset 47
Green offset 45


These are small changed I’m making trying to perfect the image.

I took a lot of comparison pictures with my settings vs orcus HDR settings in natural mode. Will post them if people are interested.


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Re-checked everything with the settings above.
> 
> Differences:
> As said yellow tint 35 and not 20
> Red brightness in cms 44 and not 50
> Red offset 47
> Green offset 45
> 
> 
> These are small changed I’m making trying to perfect the image.
> 
> I took a lot of comparison pictures with my settings vs orcus HDR settings in natural mode. Will post them if people are interested.



So to be clear these are your current settings for gamma -2:


Settings nielvm HDR 

Colour mode Cinema 
Brightness 48 
Contrast 100 
Colour saturation 80 
Tint 100 
Sharpness 5,5,5 

Colour temp 5 
Skin tone 3 

Customized Colour Temp 

Offset R 47 - Offset G 45 - Offset B 50
Gain R 50 - Gain G 50 - Gain B 27 

Image Enhancement: Image Preset Mode 5 
Gamma: -2 

R 32, 79, 44
G 48, 93, 50 
B 47, 73, 50 
C 25, 87, 50 
M 43, 87, 50 
Y 35, 83, 50 

Super White off 
Lens Iris 0 
Power Consumption Medium 
Auto Iris Normal 
Signal Advanced Menu HDMI Video Range - Dynamic Range SDR


----------



## nielvm

Yes and to be complete I’m hesitating - against all logic of measurements - to lower green gain to 35. My skin tones in the brightest scenes still bothered me...

Will still have to check with different material to be sure.


----------



## nielvm

Definitly keeping green gain at 35 for the moment, yellow tint can come back to about 22 then...

Sorry for all the confusion, still crawling towards perfection... Will keep you updated when something changes again.


----------



## Gruson

I’m loving this projector and am amazed how good 1080p even looks on it. It’s like magic! Lol

I personally like the Bright Cinema setting out of the box. I’ve read some comments here and plan to try out some custom settings. I prefer an image that “pops”...like that in Dolby Cinema compared to the normal soft film look. Curious which settings here I should try if I want that bright and punchy look.


----------



## Tweakophyte

avtoronto said:


> And herein lies the dilemma: there are two separate schools of thought on the 820's settings.


Here's where I need help on how to think about this. I have the 820, which will be my source for:
1080p Blu-ray
4K Blu-ray
4K Blu-ray with some form of HDR
Blu-ray 3-D
maybe Netflix (which may be 4K)
maybe Amaz

and 
Cable TV
Fire Stick 4K
Etc

I'd like to limit the amount of special settings I use.

I think the recco with the 820 was to turn of HDR and force to SDR/BT.2020. By doing so can I have a single setting when I use the player? Do I need a different one for each mode of Blu-ray?

How should I think about my settings with other 4K (HDR or not) sources?
How should I think about my setting with other 1080p sources?

Thanks in advance!

PS What is everyone using for calibrations? My last disc was DVE (480p). Anything good and inexpensive for the PC or Mac?


----------



## Tweakophyte

What does "Lens Iris" 0 to -14" mean in the @OrcusVaruna setting (and others)? I know it goes from 0 to -14... what does that setting do anyway?


----------



## nielvm

Tweakophyte said:


> What does "Lens Iris" 0 to -14" mean in the @OrcusVaruna setting (and others)? I know it goes from 0 to -14... what does that setting do anyway?


The epson has an iris that opens up or closes according to the brightness of the scene to achieve the best possible picture. This is the dynamic iris.

Asside from that, you can also define the lens iris from 0 to -20. This remains fixed for all scenes. In general a calibrator will define the desired light output with these settings (for sdr around 16ftl), so the projector has enough light output, but with respect for black levels. You can open it more, but the black levels will rise as well.


----------



## ac388

*Hdr*

Yes, I do need the setting for HDR than SDR since most 4K uhd Blu-ray are in HDR.


QUOTE=AdamAttewell;57464030]Welcome to the club. 
- HDR/Color Output to SDR/BT.2020 (Auto)
- Set Color Mode to Ycbr 4:2:2
- Leave Deep COlor Output to Auto (12bit Priority)
- Set HDR TV Type to Basic Luminance
- Resolution to Auto, 4k60p Off, 24p output Auto, DV Off, HDR10+ Off


These settings are incorrect if you want to view HDR content & use the optimiser. They need to be as follows:

- HDR/Color Output to HDR/BT.2020 (Auto)
- Set Color Mode to YCbCr (Auto)
- Deep Color Output to Auto (12bit Priority)
- Set HDR TV Type to Middle or High Luminance LCD



These settings will allows the optimiser to work correctly & give you the option of letting either the player or the projector to provide tone mapping depending on how you have your settings configured on your projector & player.[/QUOTE]


----------



## ac388

Yes, I did use the Harpervision setting before a private calibration with Oppo 203. But now I do have the 820, n hope to get a stand alone HDR setting for 820, that will work with 5040 on HDR material.

QUOTE=Lithium;57464488]For HDR content I personally recommend running HarperVision. The 820 can then be set to hdr/color output Auto, a display type of Middle Luminance, and HDR Optimizer On. This maps all content to 1000nits, which is pretty darn close to HarperVision which is calibrated to about 1100nits. You can then use the HDR adjustment slider a click or two to adjust to preference.

HarperVision settings (I use w/oledurt suggestions) can be found here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352[/QUOTE]


----------



## jordanfff

nielvm said:


> Definitly keeping green gain at 35 for the moment, yellow tint can come back to about 22 then...
> 
> Sorry for all the confusion, still crawling towards perfection... Will keep you updated when something changes again.


Thank you for sharing your settings and the changes your finding,They are giving us some great results.Cheers


----------



## nielvm

jordanfff said:


> Thank you for sharing your settings and the changes your finding,They are giving us some great results.Cheers


Glad you like them!

The custom gamma curve is a curious thing with this Epson. Yesterday I tried to simulate the "-2" gamma in a custom curve (for eventual finetuning). -2 gamma translates in a custom gamma of about 0, -9, -14, -14, -14, -14,...


----------



## avtoronto

nielvm said:


> Glad you like them!
> 
> The custom gamma curve is a curious thing with this Epson. Yesterday I tried to simulate the "-2" gamma in a custom curve (for eventual finetuning). -2 gamma translates in a custom gamma of about 0, -9, -14, -14, -14, -14,...


I am using your HDR settings and will adjust to your latest tweaks. Curious to know your thoughts on the output settings for the Panasonic 820 player with your projector settings: HDR/Rec2020 or SDR/Rec2020?


----------



## nielvm

avtoronto said:


> I am using your HDR settings and will adjust to your latest tweaks. Curious to know your thoughts on the output settings for the Panasonic 820 player with your projector settings: HDR/Rec2020 or SDR/Rec2020?




I don’t have the Panasonic so I couldn’t say...

The whole advantage of harpervision is that you don’t clip whites, have enough light output, keep p3,... with my settings with gamma -2 you also have plenty of shadow detail.
Personally I don’t see what still needs optimizing now...

I don’t know exactly what the Panasonic does so I couldn’t say these settings make the player useless but for me it makes me feel like looking at a whole new projector and not wanting to upgrade any time soon (but you never know).


----------



## AdamAttewell

For those interested I spent several hours tweaking the grayscale on four picture modes (Orcus Natural, Orcus Digital Cinema, Neilvm Custom Gamma & Neilvm -2 Gamma) to see how accurate I could get the grayscale with only adjusting the two point controls.


I also found that adjusting the two point controls also effects the brightness & contrast controls so there was lots of checking the black & white clipping patterns, measuring & adjusting the two point controls & then rechecking the black & white clipping patterns to see if they had been adversely effected & if so adjusting them & then rechecking the grayscale.


The errors show in the images below are going to originate from differences in projectors from unit to unit, screen materials & ambient light conditions, but as you can see great improvements can be made in the greyscale with a little tweaking.


Neilvm Custom Gamma: Default Settings










Neilvm Custom Gamma: Two Point Adjusted










Neilvm -2 Gamma: Default Settings










Nielvm -2 Gamma: Two Point Adjusted










Orcus Natural: Default Settings










Orcus Natural: Two Point Adjusted










Orcus Digital Cinema: Default Settings









Orcus Digital Cinema: Two Point Adjusted










After viewing content over all four modes I prefer Neilvm's custom gamma settings & Orcus's Natural settings.


Even after tweaking the two point I still feel that Orcus's digital cinema looks very green but I did not have time to have another look at them again but I will be honest I probably wont use it due to the drop in light output from the filter being placed in the light path away as his natural mode is much brighter for me.


The results probably are not much use to anyone except me really as they are only for my room, projector & screen but its interesting to see how much error can occur with these factors at play.


----------



## monkaquinas

ac388 said:


> Thanks. Is it I have to select SDR on 5040 ? Also, do u turn on the Optomizer on the 820 too ?


Leave the 5040 to Auto, it will accept whatever the 820 sends, which is SDR BT2020. I and several others use this to bypass the 5040 HDR Tone Mapping according to Kris who tested the 820 and worked with Panasonic engineers to confirm what it was doing with the metadata and Optimizer.



Kris Deering said:


> In the display types the projector one is 500 nits, OLED and mid brightness are 1000 nits with slightly different color processing from each other (due to WRGB compensation for OLED), and high bright is 1500.
> 
> I would NOT recommend using projector with projectors. I would ALWAYS recommend using SDR2020. SDR2020 does NOT use these modes; this was confirmed by me in testing and from Panasonic's head engineer for this player. When using the SDR2020 output mode, the HDR Optimizer is ignoring the display type and applying a tone map based on the values in the metadata. The display brightness is dictacted by the slider in the same menu with a default value of 350 nits. If you use SDR2020 with Optimizer off, it tone maps all content to 1000 nits peak and the slider works the same.


----------



## AdamAttewell

monkaquinas said:


> Leave the 5040 to Auto, it will accept whatever the 820 sends, which is SDR BT2020. I and several others use this to bypass the 5040 HDR Tone Mapping according to Kris who tested the 820 and worked with Panasonic engineers to confirm what it was doing with the metadata and Optimizer.





Setting the 820 to output SDR BT.2020 if fine if you DON'T intend to use custom gamma curves. 



Some of the settings posted in the very thread rely on the tone mapping in the projector to be activated when viewing content. If you only send SDR BT.2020 to the projector this will never occur & the resulting image will be incorrect.


----------



## nielvm

AdamAttewell said:


> For those interested I spent several hours tweaking the grayscale on four picture modes (Orcus Natural, Orcus Digital Cinema, Neilvm Custom Gamma & Neilvm -2 Gamma) to see how accurate I could get the grayscale with only adjusting the two point controls.
> 
> 
> I also found that adjusting the two point controls also effects the brightness & contrast controls so there was lots of checking the black & white clipping patterns, measuring & adjusting the two point controls & then rechecking the black & white clipping patterns to see if they had been adversely effected & if so adjusting them & then rechecking the grayscale.
> 
> 
> The errors show in the images below are going to originate from differences in projectors from unit to unit, screen materials & ambient light conditions, but as you can see great improvements can be made in the greyscale with a little tweaking.
> 
> 
> Neilvm Custom Gamma: Default Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neilvm Custom Gamma: Two Point Adjusted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neilvm -2 Gamma: Default Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nielvm -2 Gamma: Two Point Adjusted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Orcus Natural: Default Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Orcus Natural: Two Point Adjusted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Orcus Digital Cinema: Default Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Orcus Digital Cinema: Two Point Adjusted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After viewing content over all four modes I prefer Neilvm's custom gamma settings & Orcus's Natural settings.
> 
> 
> Even after tweaking the two point I still feel that Orcus's digital cinema looks very green but I did not have time to have another look at them again but I will be honest I probably wont use it due to the drop in light output from the filter being placed in the light path away as his natural mode is much brighter for me.
> 
> 
> The results probably are not much use to anyone except me really as they are only for my room, projector & screen but its interesting to see how much error can occur with these factors at play.




Which greyscale settings did you use for my -2 gamma setting? I recently lowered green gain to 35, completely against the results of the measurements, but with much better results in highlighted skintones...


----------



## AdamAttewell

nielvm said:


> Which greyscale settings did you use for my -2 gamma setting? I recently lowered green gain to 35, completely against the results of the measurements, but with much better results in highlighted skintones...



At the time I only had 50 as a starting point for green gain in the two point controls. I will be honest that I practically reset the two point controls back to defaults & then started to adjust them from the measurments I was getting.


Even with all settings left at default on the -2 settings on my setup I prefer the custom gamma settings. Let me know when you have nailed down you final settings for -2 gamma & I will give them a go.


I will be honest thou after spending seven hours adjusting settings I will give it a rest for the moment


Plus setting up my pattern generator, HD Fury & meter is a task in itself.


----------



## Scarfather

shepdog said:


> ******KNOWN ISSUES******
> 
> * The Samsung UBD-8500 does not pass 10 or 12bit, and only Rec709. Waiting on firmware update. *
> 
> Kpump is also reporting that the Epson does not detect HDR from the shield after trying several cables.
> 
> Looks like the Philips player is the only player that provides HDR to the Epson at this time.



Just browsing through the thread... I own the Epson HC4000 and the Samsung UBD-K8500. Whenever I play 4K blu-ray, the color format is always BT.709 HDR. I have the option on Auto but regardless of content and color depth (8 or 10 bit), it will say BT.709 HDR. I switch manually to BT.2020 but the info on the projector remains the same. I'm hoping it's not the source, I've tried with UHD of Blade Runner 2049.


Is this still an issue and is it related with the HC4000? My receiver is Onkyo TX-NR646 and I'm passing the signal through the receiver


----------



## ac388

*Hdr/sdr*

Thanks for your tip. Will give it a try this weekend.




monkaquinas said:


> Leave the 5040 to Auto, it will accept whatever the 820 sends, which is SDR BT2020. I and several others use this to bypass the 5040 HDR Tone Mapping according to Kris who tested the 820 and worked with Panasonic engineers to confirm what it was doing with the metadata and Optimizer.


----------



## achanonier

Hi There

I just wanted to share some pics, I was watching the Dark Knight yesterday evening, the 4K bluray and was so amazed by the picture that I grabbed my phone to take some pictures.
The HDR is stunning !


----------



## jbarteli

achanonier said:


> Hi There
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to share some pics, I was watching the Dark Knight yesterday evening, the 4K bluray and was so amazed by the picture that I grabbed my phone to take some pictures.
> 
> The HDR is stunning !


Looking good, witch setting is this?


----------



## achanonier

jbarteli said:


> Looking good, witch setting is this?


Mine !

To be quick

Digital Cinema
HDR Auto Bright
HDMI Level Auto

Brightness 51
Constrat 38
Color 55
Tint 38

Epson Super White Off
Custom Gamma 0 12 15 19 24 28 31 31 -10
Iris 0
Dynamic Iris Normal

I also did small adjustment on Color Tracking and CMS but that is projector and screen dependant...

I've been using my own settings for a while and updating them when I thought it could be better and it's by far the best picture I got !


----------



## jbarteli

achanonier said:


> Mine !
> 
> 
> 
> To be quick
> 
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema
> 
> HDR Auto Bright
> 
> HDMI Level Auto
> 
> 
> 
> Brightness 51
> 
> Constrat 38
> 
> Color 55
> 
> Tint 38
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> 
> Custom Gamma 0 12 15 19 24 28 31 31 -10
> 
> Iris 0
> 
> Dynamic Iris Normal
> 
> 
> 
> I also did small adjustment on Color Tracking and CMS but that is projector and screen dependant...
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using my own settings for a while and updating them when I thought it could be better and it's by far the best picture I got !


Thanx will try them tonight.


----------



## tlogan6797

I just upgraded my Panny 4000 to the Epson 5040UB. I did a few searches and didn't find any references to my question (and I'm not going to read 17K responses!).

The reason I went with the 5040 is the auto zoom and focus that I LOVED on the Panny 4000. HOWEVER I can't seem to get CIH on the Epson like I could on the Panny. I can get a constant image WIDTH, but that doesn't do me any good. If I zoom and set the lens for my widescreen screen, when a 16:9 image appears (pretty much any action film with CGI (was just watching MI:Fallout) the 16:9 is as wide as the widescreen but then the top and bottom are off the screen. If I set the lens to 16:9, when a widescreen appears, the top and bottom have bars within the 16:9 image (which already has white screen bars on the sides). The Panny had zoom/focus settings for each AR and would auto zoom/focus based on the incoming signal's AR.

I set LENS Memory 1 for widescreen and LENS Memory 2 for 16:9 but that doesn't seem to do it.

Question 1: Can the 5040 actually do CIH automatically?
Question 2: Am I missing something? I suppose I could sit there and click the Aspect button on the remote every time, but there is a message that pops up on the screen (which was the MOST annoying thing about the Panny 4000 (but was corrected in the Panny 5000).
Question 2A: If CAN do CIH, can you let me know the settings?
Question 3: Can the message that appears when changing Lens memories at least be turned off?

Haven't found any of these answers in the user manual that only comes on disc.

I WILL say that PQ, even BluRay through my Oppo 103D, is a YUUUGE improvement!


----------



## dangerdan92

I'm about to purchase this as a replacement to my Mitsubishi HC5500. I'm assuming there will be a huge picture quality jump? Has anyone upgraded from a 10+ year old projector?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> For those interested I spent several hours tweaking the grayscale on four picture modes (Orcus Natural, Orcus Digital Cinema, Neilvm Custom Gamma & Neilvm -2 Gamma) to see how accurate I could get the grayscale with only adjusting the two point controls.
> 
> 
> I also found that adjusting the two point controls also effects the brightness & contrast controls so there was lots of checking the black & white clipping patterns, measuring & adjusting the two point controls & then rechecking the black & white clipping patterns to see if they had been adversely effected & if so adjusting them & then rechecking the grayscale.
> 
> 
> The errors show in the images below are going to originate from differences in projectors from unit to unit, screen materials & ambient light conditions, but as you can see great improvements can be made in the greyscale with a little tweaking.
> 
> 
> Neilvm Custom Gamma: Default Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neilvm Custom Gamma: Two Point Adjusted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Neilvm -2 Gamma: Default Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nielvm -2 Gamma: Two Point Adjusted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Orcus Natural: Default Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Orcus Natural: Two Point Adjusted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Orcus Digital Cinema: Default Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Orcus Digital Cinema: Two Point Adjusted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After viewing content over all four modes I prefer Neilvm's custom gamma settings & Orcus's Natural settings.
> 
> 
> Even after tweaking the two point I still feel that Orcus's digital cinema looks very green but I did not have time to have another look at them again but I will be honest I probably wont use it due to the drop in light output from the filter being placed in the light path away as his natural mode is much brighter for me.
> 
> 
> The results probably are not much use to anyone except me really as they are only for my room, projector & screen but its interesting to see how much error can occur with these factors at play.




Very cool you can see the error introduced by my room and screen in your baseline readings 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

OrcusVaruna said:


> Very cool you can see the error introduced by my room and screen in your baseline readings of my natural and dig cinema settings. I would like to see your final settings for both. It may be a useful starting point for others using my settings with a more neutral screen. Thanks for doing this
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gruson

I want to try 3D on the 5040. Can someone recommend some 3D glasses? Hopefully cheap or you can send me your old ones.


----------



## Gruson

jbarteli said:


> Looking good, witch setting is this?


Did you try the Jurassic 4K discs? They look so dark to me. The Blu-ray versions look much better, even with lower detail.


----------



## Juboy

Gruson said:


> I want to try 3D on the 5040. Can someone recommend some 3D glasses? Hopefully cheap or you can send me your old ones.



I bought the official Epson ones and a couple of 3D blu-rays... and now stick entirely to 2D.


----------



## Gruson

Juboy said:


> Gruson said:
> 
> 
> 
> I want to try 3D on the 5040. Can someone recommend some 3D glasses? Hopefully cheap or you can send me your old ones. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought the official Epson ones and a couple of 3D blu-rays... and now stick entirely to 2D.
Click to expand...

Did it look ok though? Curious what people think.


----------



## tlogan6797

I fired mine up last night with the Epson glasses and I have to say I was blown away. This is the FOURTH iteration of 3D I've tried and this is BY FAR the best. I started out with 3D prior to the HD movement with 480i and thought the results were decent enough. Then I went the 65" DLP TV checkerboard route and it was definitely better. Then I went with the VIP kludge for my Panasonic 4000 projector and I just couldn't get it dialed in right and it was REALLY dark and it flickered. The Epson was flawless to me. Of course the picture is darker, only slightly, and not near as bad as I've seen and I found it ENTIRELY watchable with ZERO flicker and on the tests I ran last night I didn't see any crosstalk, either. I used the 3-d Rarities as a reference and then for kicks put in the Disney Chip and Dale cartoon as I've never seen that one as I thought it should be. in short, I am sold! I believe my set up is at the point that any issues related to cross-talk or ghosting are now the fault of the studio and/or the transfer. I got about 8 or 10 titles to go back and re-watch.


----------



## Juboy

Gruson said:


> Did it look ok though? Curious what people think.



It was... OK. Watched the Dr Strange Blu-Ray but was distracted by how dark and low quality it looked. Mind you, I've never been the biggest fan of 3D.


----------



## inspector

Gruson said:


> I want to try 3D on the 5040. Can someone recommend some 3D glasses? Hopefully cheap or you can send me your old ones.



If you can't afford the Epson V12H548006 glasses @ $90 each from Amazon, the ones I bought were Valueview at $38 each on Amazon. But, it seems no one is carrying them anymore. 


I have over 270 3Ders and I just can't watch a 2D film, 3D spoils you that much. 


I think there is a thread about which 3D glasses are the best, just do a thread search in this section or the thread on Ghosting/crosstalk that I started.


Good luck!


----------



## MMoser

I agree with Inspector! Valueview are great!

We tried other brands and sent them back as the Valueview did the best with color and crosstalk.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Argyle Shepard

Hey all. I’m having some trouble figuring out the HD Fury linker and my Xbox one X settings. Before I was using the settings from this thread that basically change the gamma curve and used rec 709 for HDR. I thought those looked good, but now for the Xbox one x to display in true 4K I needed the Linker. So I plugged it in and now I changed to rec 2020 and HDR on the Epson, but the image looks pretty bad. Tons of banding, odd magenta colored splashes around the image, clipping in highlights etc. Is there a settings area for this combination? I need help big time as it looks significantly worse than before. Thanks.


----------



## Natrix1973

Argyle Shepard said:


> Hey all. I’m having some trouble figuring out the HD Fury linker and my Xbox one X settings. Before I was using the settings from this thread that basically change the gamma curve and used rec 709 for HDR. I thought those looked good, but now for the Xbox one x to display in true 4K I needed the Linker. So I plugged it in and now I changed to rec 2020 and HDR on the Epson, but the image looks pretty bad. Tons of banding, odd magenta colored splashes around the image, clipping in highlights etc. Is there a settings area for this combination? I need help big time as it looks significantly worse than before. Thanks.


You didn't mention if you did this but you will need to change your gamma settings back if you haven't already.


----------



## Argyle Shepard

Yes thanks. Since the other settings require digital cinema, I based the new ones on natural and saved that on a separate memory slot.


----------



## WynsWrld98

I have a 5040 and just ordered an Nvidia Shield I don't have yet. I read past postings about the Nvidia Shield in this thread trying to figure out recommended settings that work well with the Epson but am confused by what I find.

Here's one thing I found:
No just go 4k 23.9xxhz YUV Rec2020. Works for 1080p and 4kHDR​
I found some other things:
Set to 4K, BT.2020, HDR 4:2:2 12-Bit then conflicting Hz things like 24 Hz, 29.97 Hz so not sure about that​
For non-HDR content: YUV 4:2:2 12-bit Rec 709 then see some say 60 Hz and some say 24 Hz (those that like 60 Hz talk about 24 Hz having judder)​
I'll be watching the following:
Netflix streaming - will I get HDR and/or 4K?​Amazon Prime streaming - will I get HDR and/or 4K?​Kodi mostly 1080p non-HDR content, recommended settings?​Play MKVs/M2TS files from USB hard drive 1080p Bluray rips​
I had a FireTV 4K but had lip sync problems with it with Kodi no matter what I tried in the setup of it so wanted to give the Nvidia Shield a try.


----------



## gene4ht

Gruson said:


> *I want to try 3D on the 5040. Can someone recommend some 3D glasses?* Hopefully cheap or you can send me your old ones.





inspector said:


> If you can't afford the Epson V12H548006 glasses @ $90 each from Amazon, the ones I bought were *Valueview at $38 each on Amazon.* But,* it seems no one is carrying them anymore.*
> 
> I have over 270 3Ders and I just can't watch a 2D film, 3D spoils you that much.
> 
> *I think there is a thread about which 3D glasses are the best*, just do a thread search in this section or the thread on Ghosting/crosstalk that I started.
> 
> Good luck!





MMoser said:


> I agree with Inspector! *Valueview are great!*
> 
> We tried other brands and sent them back as the Valueview did the best with color and crosstalk.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I'm in agreement with the previous posters...ValueVue...I believe the post @*inspector* was referring to is the review by Stecchino at the link below...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-...d-glasses-4-models-compared.html#post49131769

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-239.html#post52170353

*Edit:* In an attempt to find a dealer for the ValueVue glasses, as inspector commented, unfortunately many of the previous sources (Amazon, Sears, Walmart no longer carry them). The manufacturer or distributor was Dimensional Optics and it appears they indicated that the ValueVues are no longer available. I'm guessing that the abandonment of 3D by TV manufacturers likely has killed demand for many 3D glasses. And the projector market is obviously only a very small segment of the overall display market. Possibly, some of the others in Stecchino's review are still available...although I have no personal experience with them.

https://www.dimensionaloptics.com/default.aspx


----------



## Juboy

nielvm said:


> Great, thanks! Personally I think my HDR settings are far more impressing. We all know sdr by now...



Oddly, while I now use your SDR settings as my standard setting, I tried your HDR settings last night on some 4K discs and also 4K HDR off Netflix and found it almost unwatchable.


I double checked everything and they were definitely input and saved correctly. The image was so heavily red saturated that everyone looked like they had sunburn. I felt so deflated after being so impressed with your SDR settings.


----------



## nielvm

I already addressed this issue. Please adjust the yellow tint in the CMS according to your taste. You propably need to slide it more towards green than to red...

But hang on, I’m still working on a new approach. With tint in the main screen on 100, the saturation points of each color tend to “drift” a bit.
I still like gamma on -2, but you are right color accuracy needs improving.


----------



## Juboy

Maybe the Tint being at 100 is the problem. I'll play around with it.


----------



## nielvm

Juboy said:


> Maybe the Tint being at 100 is the problem. I'll play around with it.




Well if you do, the whole cms is different as well, I’m calibrating it now.

The frustrating thing is that the skin tones might seem perfect on one movie and blown out on the other.

In therms of skin tones, orcus HDR setting with natural mode is very good. It bothers me though that you don’t have p3 that way and I personally like better (more) shadow detail.


----------



## Gruson

Thanks. It worked out on the 3D glasses. A guy on Craigslist has six official Epson pairs with a nice bulk charger for $50. Three of them were actually new too! Worked out.


----------



## gene4ht

Gruson said:


> Thanks. It worked out on the 3D glasses. A guy on Craigslist has six official Epson pairs with a nice bulk charger for $50. Three of them were actually new too! Worked out.


Great! Good deals can be found on CL...


----------



## Alex512

I’m new to 4K projection and could use some help please. I just picked up a 5040 yesterday from Best Buy and ordered 30’ fiber optic hdmi cable on amazon. I just reading in the instructions of projector that if I’m using optical hdmi that I would need to connect to the opt hdmi for power. What is this about?. 
Also I’m coming for a JVC RS1U (I was on that early pre buy bac in 2007) Will I see a noticeable improvement over my RS1? I’m still loving the black levels on it!


----------



## satyab

Does anyone replaced the bulb recently? I got Epson bulb but didn't got the screw driver to open the unit along with bulb. I have tried every thing available in house, but none of them worked. Can someone refer me where I can buy one?


----------



## Alex512

I get a signal direct from Apple TV with optical hdmi but no signal when I send it through the my receiver using a 4K non optical. I have my receiver set to pass through. Is the issue non optical to optical hdmi or the receiver? My receiver is an older onkyo TX-NR609. Any help would be much appreciated


----------



## Alex512

*Epson 5040ub hook up issues*

I get a signal direct from Apple TV with optical hdmi but no signal when I send it through the my receiver using a 4K non optical. I have my receiver set to pass through. Is the issue non optical to optical hdmi or the receiver? My receiver is an older onkyo TX-NR609. Any help would be much appreciated


----------



## Alex512

I also can’t get resolution of the Apple TV 4K any higher than 720p SDR. I’ve tried 1080 HDR and 1080 SDR and 5040 won’t except either. For 1080 HDR I get a black screen and it won’t switch it back to 720. I have to unplug Apple TV to get a signal back. I think it might be this optical cable. Also under projector info it says the source is HDMI but input signal says component. Please help. I’m at a loss here. Thanks


----------



## rbk123

Alex512 said:


> I get a signal direct from Apple TV with optical hdmi but no signal when I send it through the my receiver using a 4K non optical. I have my receiver set to pass through. Is the issue non optical to optical hdmi or the receiver? My receiver is an older onkyo TX-NR609. Any help would be much appreciated


Your Onkyo isn’t 4k capable. It can only pass 1080p or less.


----------



## rekbones

I don't think your receiver supports 4K so you can't use it at all with the 5040 unless you use an HDMI audio extractor to send video to the projector and audio to the receiver. The opt cable is also suspect because you are having issues with the ATV going directly to the projector.


----------



## Zoltrix

Hi all,

I was hoping if someone could confirm if I'd have enough distance between my current protector mount and screen to get a 110" image?

I've got 3.4m (11.1549 feet) of space between the screen and mount.

Cheers,
Justin


----------



## avscottso

Zoltrix said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I was hoping if someone could confirm if I'd have enough distance between my current protector mount and screen to get a 110" image?
> 
> I've got 3.4m (11.1549 feet) of space between the screen and mount.
> 
> Cheers,
> Justin


According to Epson's throw calculator your dimension will work. A 110" image is attained at a throw distance of 10'-9.9", 3.3m.

Epson's calc: https://files.support.epson.com/pdc/eai/html5/index.html


----------



## Alex512

My receiver says it does 4K up scaling. I removed the optical hdmi and used my old hdmi through the receiver and it worked! I’m still not getting HDR but at least 1080p SDR for now until I replace my old cable with a non optical 4K hdr hdmi cable. Any recommendations for a 30’ high speed cable? Thanks for the responses. This sight won’t let me quote the responses. Thanks


----------



## Alex512

My onkyo TX-NR609 has a pass through for HDMI and 4 k upscale option. When I get my new cable do you think it will let the ATV pass through a 4K signal?


----------



## Natrix1973

Alex512 said:


> My onkyo TX-NR609 has a pass through for HDMI and 4 k upscale option. When I get my new cable do you think it will let the ATV pass through a 4K signal?


No, it won't work and give you native 4k. Your receiver only accepts up to a 1080P signal which the receiver can upscale to 4k output. It will not accept a native 4k input signal and pass it though. Refer to page 87 of your owner manual.


----------



## rbk123

Natrix1973 said:


> Alex512 said:
> 
> 
> 
> My onkyo TX-NR609 has a pass through for HDMI and 4 k upscale option. When I get my new cable do you think it will let the ATV pass through a 4K signal?
> 
> 
> 
> No, it won't work and give you native 4k. Your receiver only accepts up to a 1080P signal which the receiver can upscale to 4k output. It will not accept a native 4k input signal and pass it though. Refer to page 87 of your owner manual.
Click to expand...

Natrix is correct. Your receiver only has HDMI 1.4 ports; which won't work with native 4k. I would recommend spending time researching the HDMI versions and what they do/don't do coupled with the different flavors of 4k. It's pretty much required knowledge these days for HT.


----------



## terminal33

achanonier said:


> Mine !
> 
> To be quick
> 
> Digital Cinema
> HDR Auto Bright
> HDMI Level Auto
> 
> Brightness 51
> Constrat 38
> Color 55
> Tint 38
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Custom Gamma 0 12 15 19 24 28 31 31 -10
> Iris 0
> Dynamic Iris Normal
> 
> I also did small adjustment on Color Tracking and CMS but that is projector and screen dependant...
> 
> I've been using my own settings for a while and updating them when I thought it could be better and it's by far the best picture I got !


Can you tell me the rest of the settings that you use for this? I'd like to try it out. Thanks!


----------



## Zoltrix

avscottso said:


> According to Epson's throw calculator your dimension will work. A 110" image is attained at a throw distance of 10'-9.9", 3.3m.
> 
> Epson's calc: https://files.support.epson.com/pdc/eai/html5/index.html


Cool, thanks for checking that.

I've been searching and reading through this thread, but was hoping someone could summarise for me the shortcomings of the projector related to 4k and HDR. In summary the project can do 4k HDR at 24Hz but not 60Hz?


----------



## nielvm

So here are my newly calibrated HDR settings 

Force SDR

Cinema
Brightness 48
Contrast 100
Saturation 80
Tint 50

Color temp 5/3 custom
49
50
50
50
46
22

Gamma

0;-11;-18;-18;-18;-14;-7;+6;0

CMS

R 67 37 50
G 38 40 50
B 80 50 50
C 58 31 50
M 67 58 50
Y 50 72 50

Image enhancement mode 5
Medium lamp
Iris normal
Super white off


----------



## jordanfff

nielvm said:


> So here are my newly calibrated HDR settings
> 
> Force SDR
> 
> Cinema
> Brightness 48
> Contrast 100
> Saturation 80
> Tint 50
> 
> Color temp 5/3 custom
> 49
> 50
> 50
> 50
> 46
> 22
> 
> Gamma
> 
> 0;-11;-18;-18;-18;-14;-7;+6;0
> 
> CMS
> 
> R 67 37 50
> G 38 40 50
> B 80 50 50
> C 58 31 50
> M 67 58 50
> Y 50 72 50
> 
> Image enhancement mode 5
> Medium lamp
> Iris normal
> Super white off


Thank you for sharing ,will try them out when I can.Is the manual iris at 0 ?.Cheers


----------



## RacerX135

I have a 4040 and am aware that like the 5040 it cannot do 4K HDR at 60 so I decided not to bother with an xbox one X (Yes I am aware of the HD Linker Solution) I got an xbox one S so I can play UHD Blu Rays and they work great on the 4040. HDR 12bit 24 or 30fps but when I stream with either the Xbox apps or Fire Cube apps I get mixed results Sometime it is fine, Other times it reverts to 1080p HDR or just 1080p or just 4K SDR. It is mixed depending on what app I am using and device. When it works it is sight to behold. I watched a good part of man in the high castle on my old Panasonic ptae7000 and it was one of the few shows that really challenged that projector and the show that made me think about upgrading. But on the 4040 in 4K HDR it looks crazy good like night and day. So anyone else struggling to get 4k HDR working on there streaming apps? is it just that streaming is not reliable or is it some issue with my projector? I run it through a Denon s720w I tried setting the Xbox to onlt 8bit color, 10 bit and 12bit


----------



## nielvm

jordanfff said:


> Thank you for sharing ,will try them out when I can.Is the manual iris at 0 ?.Cheers




Yes


----------



## avscottso

Zoltrix said:


> I've been searching and reading through this thread, but was hoping someone could summarise for me the shortcomings of the projector related to 4k and HDR. In summary the project can do 4k HDR at 24Hz but not 60Hz?


It has 1080p native resolution with 4K Enhancement. The following res/refresh specs are below.

Display format,,,,Refresh rate (in Hz),,,,Resolution (in pixels)
HDTV (1080p),,,,,,,24/30/50/60,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1920 × 1080

4K × 2K,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,24/30/50/60,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,3840 × 2160
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,24/50/60,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,4096 × 2160


4K HDR discs look great on mine. I've got about 3200 hours of usage over the last year on this projector, and I changed the first lamp at 3089 hours. I've had no problems of any kind. When the screen is black, a "blob" several inches in diameter can be seen while the room is very dark but this doesn't matter at all while viewing content, the blob is not much brighter than a black screen.

I can't verbalize any shortcomings without comparing this projector to some costing much more. I use it as my only tv screen in the house, my last two plasmas are stored in an unused bedroom. As I write this I'm watching the Rolex 24 Hour Race in a slightly light controlled room (it's pretty bright in here). The 5040 is not bright like my plasma but it also doesn't have the bright reflections I used to see in the shiny glass screen, and there was zero success trying to reduce the reflections - too many windows that would need dark drapes, not gonna happen. If I really need to I can further reduce the room brightness if I have friends over to watch a race, but for just little 'ol me it's fine.


----------



## satyab

Zoltrix said:


> Cool, thanks for checking that.
> 
> I've been searching and reading through this thread, but was hoping someone could summarise for me the shortcomings of the projector related to 4k and HDR. In summary the project can do 4k HDR at 24Hz but not 60Hz?


The very first post has nice table explaining the refresh rates this projector can and can't do. Attaching the same for reference.


----------



## Zoltrix

satyab said:


> The very first post has nice table explaining the refresh rates this projector can and can't do. Attaching the same for reference.


Thanks for the info. I thought that that maximum the HDMI ports could do was 10.2 gbps? But that table seems to suggest it can go up to 17.8 gbps?


----------



## Flavio Amorim

Hi guys,

I was about to buy a 4010 projector and I saw the price of the 5040ub dropped even further. its $1999 + free lamp. The problem is I am buying from New Zealand and I really scared about the power supply failure. Is that still a concern? 

What would you recommend?

Cheers


----------



## Juboy

nielvm said:


> So here are my newly calibrated HDR settings



These work really well for me, chalk & cheese compared to the last HDR settings of yours that I tried. The new ones are great though, so many thanks for sharing.


----------



## nielvm

Juboy said:


> These work really well for me, chalk & cheese compared to the last HDR settings of yours that I tried. The new ones are great though, so many thanks for sharing.




Thanks! Don’t know what is was with the previous settings. They looked great untill... they didn’t anymore. Very strange.


----------



## satyab

Zoltrix said:


> Thanks for the info. I thought that that maximum the HDMI ports could do was 10.2 gbps? But that table seems to suggest it can go up to 17.8 gbps?


Yes. Only formats that shows less than 10Gbps are valid for this projector from the table.


----------



## Tweakophyte

nielvm said:


> So here are my newly calibrated HDR settings


What tools are you using to set things up? 

I am looking for an overall strategy and some tools (calibration disk?) where I can do my own adjustments. Last time I did this I used DVE and only tweaked the basic items (Brightness, Contrast, Color, Tint, Sharpness, etc.). 

Most of the reviews say the overall color error is pretty good out of the box. Am I right to assume the CMS is the tweaky part, and I should be able to manage/enhance much of the pop with the basic dials? Are you over-boosting Contrast and then using CMS to bring things back inline? Similar question around Gamma.

Also wondering how you chose the Image Enhancement preset of 5. Many use preset 2. Is there a table of values this effects? 

For reference I am using a Panny 820 sending SDR/BT/2020. Of course, I have other video sources I need to consider.

Thx


----------



## nielvm

I am using colorhcfr with an i1display pro. Patterns are internal and R.Masciola disc.

Contrast at 100 is part of Harpervision, a method created by Dave Harper. You leave the projector in sdr mode to have more light output in the lower regions without clipping highlight. You need to put contrast at 100 to lower the clipping level to about 1100 nits. This has nothing to do with color.

For gamma I don't follow the required eotf curve because I think it is overall too dark. 

Image enhancement for sdr material is best at 2-3 imo. For 4k hdr material I like 4-5. It adds a lot of perceived sharpness without many side effects. Set this to your own taste...

Edit: when calibrating color, ALWAYS take some saturation points into account, never only the fully saturated outside triangle.


----------



## Gruson

Can someone explain how the 5040 handles a 1080p signal? Does it upconvert to the faux 4K? Plus how does it handle a 4K signal? Downcoverts to faux 4K? I know each source material is different but there are times I swear the 1080p version is better. 

Comparing multiple 4K materials from TouTube, 4K movie files, etc through a shield set at 4K display and xbox one x at 4K 

Also, in settings, the 4K enhancement is greyed out? Why is thst?

Sometimes I’ll compare with the Xbox set at 1080p instead of 4K and not seeing a huge difference between it being set at 4K either. I’m assuming the Epson is upconverint it which is why. 

Amazing projector. Looks so good no matter what I throw at it


----------



## Gruson

I think I see now. It does enhance 1080p to 4K. I see that now when using a 1080p source. It isn’t greyed out then. No wonder everything looks so good.


----------



## Gruson

So another question. Is it best to play it back in 1080p and let the Epson upconvert it to 4K? It should I change my Shield settings to 4K? Curious what people think is the best way to get maximum quality.


----------



## ayrton

*Video didn't fill screen*

Last evening I watched "The Abyss" on DVD on my Sammy 8500 and later on my OPPO 203.

The video didn't come close to filling my screen. (16:9) The display looked like 16:9 but had huge gaps top, bottom and both sides. I am aware of some videos done in other aspect ratios. (Black/Grey bars) 

I've watched a ton of videos, DVD, 1080P Blu Rays and 4K UHD and never had this happen.


Any ideas?? TIA, ayrton


----------



## Natrix1973

ayrton said:


> Last evening I watched "The Abyss" on DVD on my Sammy 8500 and later on my OPPO 203.
> 
> The video didn't come close to filling my screen. (16:9) The display looked like 16:9 but had huge gaps top, bottom and both sides. I am aware of some videos done in other aspect ratios. (Black/Grey bars)
> 
> I've watched a ton of videos, DVD, 1080P Blu Rays and 4K UHD and never had this happen.
> 
> 
> Any ideas?? TIA, ayrton



It is an older non-anamorphic disk so it will look like that on any display unless you stretch the image.


----------



## [email protected]

*No signal*

Hi there,
Newbie here so please bear with me. I am setting up my new home theater and following is my setup. 

Denon avr-X6400
Epson 5040UB

I am connecting a roku ultra to the Denon receiver and Denon to 5040UB HDMI1. No matter what I try, I still get the "No Signal". The audio plays just fine but no signal from the projector. When Roku is connected directly to the projector, it works fine so I know the projector is working fine. But when the same roku is connected through the Denon receiver, I get no signal. I tried with another Blue ray player but still get no signal. I am running a 30 feet fiber HDMI cable that runs in the ceiling. When roku is connected through this cable directly through projector, it projects the menu but doesn't play any videos. I am thinking that the cable is the issue here and may not be HDCP2.2 compatible. I am using the HDMI 2.0 fiber cable. 

Source is connected to the Roku/Receiver and the display to the projector. Any pointers on what I am doing? Do I need to use a different cable? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!!


----------



## westbergjoakim

I have read that when iris is closed, you get much better contrast in a threated/optimal room. Can someone tell me if the iris is opened or closed when Iris Lens are set to -20? Thanks!

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## westbergjoakim

nielvm said:


> So here are my newly calibrated HDR settings
> 
> 
> 
> Force SDR
> 
> 
> 
> Cinema
> 
> Brightness 48
> 
> Contrast 100
> 
> Saturation 80
> 
> Tint 50
> 
> 
> 
> Color temp 5/3 custom
> 
> 49
> 
> 50
> 
> 50
> 
> 50
> 
> 46
> 
> 22
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma
> 
> 
> 
> 0;-11;-18;-18;-18;-14;-7;+6;0
> 
> 
> 
> CMS
> 
> 
> 
> R 67 37 50
> 
> G 38 40 50
> 
> B 80 50 50
> 
> C 58 31 50
> 
> M 67 58 50
> 
> Y 50 72 50
> 
> 
> 
> Image enhancement mode 5
> 
> Medium lamp
> 
> Iris normal
> 
> Super white off


Are this your "gamma -2" calibrated settings? 

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Drinky

[email protected] said:


> Hi there,
> Newbie here so please bear with me. I am setting up my new home theater and following is my setup.
> 
> Denon avr-X6400
> Epson 5040UB
> 
> I am connecting a roku ultra to the Denon receiver and Denon to 5040UB HDMI1. No matter what I try, I still get the "No Signal". The audio plays just fine but no signal from the projector. When Roku is connected directly to the projector, it works fine so I know the projector is working fine. But when the same roku is connected through the Denon receiver, I get no signal. I tried with another Blue ray player but still get no signal. I am running a 30 feet fiber HDMI cable that runs in the ceiling. When roku is connected through this cable directly through projector, it projects the menu but doesn't play any videos. I am thinking that the cable is the issue here and may not be HDCP2.2 compatible. I am using the HDMI 2.0 fiber cable.
> 
> Source is connected to the Roku/Receiver and the display to the projector. Any pointers on what I am doing? Do I need to use a different cable? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!!


Have you made sure that the HDMI cable is not a unidirectional cable that is simply installed backwards? I only ask because I have first hand knowledge of a guy that made that exact mistake and it took him a while to troubleshoot it. 🤣


----------



## WynsWrld98

Gruson said:


> So another question. Is it best to play it back in 1080p and let the Epson upconvert it to 4K? It should I change my Shield settings to 4K? Curious what people think is the best way to get maximum quality.


I find the setup confusing. I don't want to set the Shield to 1080p because the Epson can handle 4K so when something is truly in 4K I want it to pass 4K, but if something is native 1080p I want it passed as 1080p. I'm not seeing a "use native" for display selection because that's what I want.


----------



## Gruson

Yes. That’s what I was thinking too, wish it could playback like that..


----------



## nielvm

westbergjoakim said:


> Are this your "gamma -2" calibrated settings?
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk




More or less. I simulated a -2 gamma as custom gamma and made some adjustements.


----------



## Juboy

Gruson said:


> Can someone explain how the 5040 handles a 1080p signal? Does it upconvert to the faux 4K? Plus how does it handle a 4K signal? Downcoverts to faux 4K? I know each source material is different but there are times I swear the 1080p version is better.
> 
> Sometimes I’ll compare with the Xbox set at 1080p instead of 4K and not seeing a huge difference between it being set at 4K either. I’m assuming the Epson is upconverint it which is why.



Yeah, same here. I don't watch anything less than 1080p on my 9300w (6040ub) and at the distance I watch there's really very little difference between 1080p and the faux-4K in terms of image quality - in the positive sense that 1080p looks as good as 2160p. The only time it's really noticeable is when there is lettering on screen (such as road signs, shop displays or labels on items etc.), those appear sharper and easier to read when it's displaying a 2160p source.



It's a glass half-full type thing. I sometimes wish UHD showed a significant jump in quality but on the flip side it's nice to know the PJ makes 1080p look so good.


----------



## westbergjoakim

nielvm said:


> More or less. I simulated a -2 gamma as custom gamma and made some adjustements.


Thanks! It's looking great, even better then your first HDR settings that I also like! I also had problem with the first gamma -2, this one are much better!

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

Drinky said:


> Have you made sure that the HDMI cable is not a unidirectional cable that is simply installed backwards? I only ask because I have first hand knowledge of a guy that made that exact mistake and it took him a while to troubleshoot it. 🤣


Thanks, yes, the cable is directional and it is connected properly. Source to the Roku and display to the Projector.


----------



## nielvm

westbergjoakim said:


> Thanks! It's looking great, even better then your first HDR settings that I also like! I also had problem with the first gamma -2, this one are much better!
> 
> Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk




Glad you like te settings!


----------



## jjwinterberg

[email protected] said:


> Thanks, yes, the cable is directional and it is connected properly. Source to the Roku and display to the Projector.



The best troubleshooting method I know of is to simplify the system until you get something that works. Then you add in components one at a time until you find where the problem is.


I would recommend that you connect the Roku directly to the projector and see if you get a signal. If you do then you know that there is something in how the receiver is configured. If you don't get a signal with just the Roku then you can try configuration settings on the Roku. 


There is a Roku app that allows you to setup the unit even if you don't get a signal to the projector. One of the things that the Roku ultra does is it tries to maximize the image compatible with your system. It could be that the ultra is configured for a signal that is not supported. You will know if you connect it directly to the pj.


----------



## bluer101

Juboy said:


> Yeah, same here. I don't watch anything less than 1080p on my 9300w (6040ub) and at the distance I watch there's really very little difference between 1080p and the faux-4K in terms of image quality - in the positive sense that 1080p looks as good as 2160p. The only time it's really noticeable is when there is lettering on screen (such as road signs, shop displays or labels on items etc.), those appear sharper and easier to read when it's displaying a 2160p source.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a glass half-full type thing. I sometimes wish UHD showed a significant jump in quality but on the flip side it's nice to know the PJ makes 1080p look so good.


I’m with you also. I watch a lot of blurays more than 4K disks. I actually prefer on the 5040 watching the blurays in 1080p with 4K enhancement off and image enhancement setting 3 or 4. I just don’t see enough of a difference with 4K on this projector to warrant all the messing around with settings to achieve a decent picture. 

With bluray I just pop it in and enjoy the movie.


----------



## avtoronto

bluer101 said:


> I’m with you also. I watch a lot of blurays more than 4K disks. I actually prefer on the 5040 watching the blurays in 1080p with 4K enhancement off and image enhancement setting 3 or 4. I just don’t see enough of a difference with 4K on this projector to warrant all the messing around with settings to achieve a decent picture.
> 
> With bluray I just pop it in and enjoy the movie.


There is a lot to be said for this. The world of HDR and endlessly fiddling with various settings is exhausting.


----------



## gene4ht

Juboy said:


> Yeah, same here. I don't watch anything less than 1080p on my 9300w (6040ub) and at the distance I watch there's really very little difference between 1080p and the faux-4K in terms of image quality - in the positive sense that 1080p looks as good as 2160p. The only time it's really noticeable is when there is lettering on screen (such as road signs, shop displays or labels on items etc.), those appear sharper and easier to read when it's displaying a 2160p source.
> 
> It's a glass half-full type thing. I sometimes wish UHD showed a significant jump in quality but on the flip side it's nice to know the PJ makes 1080p look so good.





bluer101 said:


> I’m with you also. I watch a lot of blurays more than 4K disks. I actually prefer on the 5040 watching the blurays in 1080p with 4K enhancement off and image enhancement setting 3 or 4. I just don’t see enough of a difference with 4K on this projector to warrant all the messing around with settings to achieve a decent picture.
> 
> With bluray I just pop it in and enjoy the movie.





avtoronto said:


> There is a lot to be said for this. The world of HDR and endlessly fiddling with various settings is exhausting.


It appears we're in the same camp. However, because of my red/green color blindness, there's no point in my "fiddling." Funny, I've never touched the "out of box" settings in two years and have never heard a single comment/complaint from family/friends about color fidelity or resolution . The overwhelming comments were about the great/fabulous color and image! I completely understand the breadth of this hobby...the really OCD among us continually chase the holy grail of color, contrast, HDR perfection, etc. and are distracted by image imperfections however small. This leaves the group to which I belong. Maybe it's due to my color vision shortcomings but I'm not at all distracted by the aforementioned. Bottom line, my use case is watching movies from all sources while thoroughly enjoying the image that this PJ throws! Of course...YMMV!


----------



## avtoronto

gene4ht said:


> It appears we're in the same camp. However, because of my red/green color blindness, there's no point in my "fiddling." Funny, I've never touched the "out of box" settings in two years and have never heard a single comment/complaint from family/friends about color fidelity or resolution . The overwhelming comments were about the great/fabulous color and image! I completely understand the breadth of this hobby...the really OCD among us continually chase the holy grail of color, contrast, HDR perfection, etc. and are distracted by image imperfections however small. This leaves the group to which I belong. Maybe it's due to my color vision shortcomings but I'm not at all distracted by the aforementioned. Bottom line, my use case is watching movies from all sources while thoroughly enjoying the image that this PJ throws! Of course...YMMV!


Perhaps it is an "OCD" tendency...but really I would be happy to 'set and forget'. SDR material is fine and I don't change those settings often. HDR on the other hand is a nightmare. I mean the settings that work on an iTunes streamed HDR film don't work when playing a UHD disc from my Panasonic 820. In fact I get varying experiences from one iTunes HDR film to another. It's not just that the colours don't look good; it's having really washed out portions of a scene or having scenes too dark to see detail that should be visible. So I find I have various memory slots taken up with HDR settings that I scan through to find the best one for selected HDR content.


----------



## gene4ht

avtoronto said:


> It's not just that the colours don't look good; it's having really washed out portions of a scene or having scenes too dark to see detail that should be visible. So I find I have various memory slots taken up with HDR settings that I scan through to find the best one for selected HDR content.


From the beginning, I understood that PJ’s we’re not ready for HDR prime time...images were going to be too dark due to insufficient lumens. PJ’s have a technological challenge to overcome. I do not fault others for attempting to improve conditions with tweaks and work arounds...but I choose to accept what is and can wait for the eventual solution. Add to this, the fact that studios and content distributors are still in various stages of their HDR learning curve and to my knowledge there are no standards in place. This is likely the reason there is no one setting fits all. This is also the reason I’m completely satisfied with SDR and allowing 1080 to be upscaled. Set and forget ain’t here...yet! Again...YMMV.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

I really don’t understand what everyone’s issue is with HDR once one is using a proper 1000 nit calibration. I have no issues viewing any streaming content, playing games via my Xbox one x or watching a uhd Blu-ray via my Ub820 (set on the middle 1000nit display type). I feel like you all are running into issues because you’re fiddling with the settings myself and others have posted and not correcting for any changes this introduces to the black and white clipping points. If you make sure the full 1000 nit patterns are displaying after your fiddling you should have no issues and be able to display any 1000 nit source correctly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

OrcusVaruna said:


> I really don’t understand what everyone’s issue is with HDR once one is using a proper 1000 nit calibration. I have no issues viewing any streaming content, playing games via my Xbox one x or watching a uhd Blu-ray via my Ub820 (set on the middle 1000nit display type). I feel like you all are running into issues because you’re fiddling with the settings myself and others have posted and not correcting for any changes this introduces to the black and white clipping points. If you make sure the full 1000 nit patterns are displaying after your fiddling you should have no issues and be able to display any 1000 nit source correctly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well I try not to fiddle with your settings much. Are you using SDR/2020 or HDR/2020 from the Panny?


----------



## Dave Harper

OrcusVaruna said:


> I really don’t understand what everyone’s issue is with HDR once one is using a proper 1000 nit calibration. I have no issues viewing any streaming content, playing games via my Xbox one x or watching a uhd Blu-ray via my Ub820 (set on the middle 1000nit display type). I feel like you all are running into issues because you’re fiddling with the settings myself and others have posted and not correcting for any changes this introduces to the black and white clipping points. If you make sure the full 1000 nit patterns are displaying after your fiddling you should have no issues and be able to display any 1000 nit source correctly.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Agreed and well said! I am absolutely stunned every time I play HDR on my LK970 and was very pleased with my other projectors with HDR like the 5040, various Sonys and other Epsons and a couple JVCs. 

If they saw what I see with HDR, they’d never make the negative confusing comments about it that I see here.


----------



## Juboy

OrcusVaruna said:


> I really don’t understand what everyone’s issue is with HDR once one is using a proper 1000 nit calibration.



I agree with you re. HDR, I have seven of my memory slots allocated to various HDR settings (yours included) and I generally know which one will likely work best for the given content I'm about to watch. HDR on this projector works very well once dialed in, although I do believe it's worth having several setting options to ensure you're getting the best out of it.


HDR is still my preferred choice for viewing on the projector, be it from a Netflix or disc source.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> Well I try not to fiddle with your settings much. Are you using SDR/2020 or HDR/2020 from the Panny?




HDR 2020 set to the middle 1000 nit display setting. I personally find my custom gamma curves for my screen/environment consistently outperform the 820s curves. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> Agreed and well said! I am absolutely stunned every time I play HDR on my LK970 and was very pleased with my other projectors with HDR like the 5040, various Sonys and other Epsons and a couple JVCs.
> 
> If they saw what I see with HDR, they’d never make the negative confusing comments about it that I see here.




Well said yourself! Once I figured out what I was doing calibrating low nit displays for HDR it really is a revelatory viewing experience.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Lesmor

OrcusVaruna said:


> HDR 2020 set to the middle 1000 nit display setting. I personally find my custom gamma curves for my screen/environment consistently outperform the 820s curves.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I must be confused as I thought you sold it
Do you still have your projector?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Lesmor said:


> I must be confused as I thought you sold it
> 
> Do you still have your projector?




Yes I do, I just moved recently. It would take a projector with a high lumen solid state light source at a reasonable price to get me to dump the 5040 for something else. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

Juboy said:


> I agree with you re. HDR, I have seven of my memory slots allocated to various HDR settings (yours included) and I generally know which one will likely work best for the given content I'm about to watch. HDR on this projector works very well once dialed in, although I do believe it's worth having several setting options to ensure you're getting the best out of it.
> 
> 
> HDR is still my preferred choice for viewing on the projector, be it from a Netflix or disc source.


Exactly. Several memory settings needed in order to choose which combination best suits particular content. As much as I like Harpervision, Orcus' Digital Cinema, and Nielvm's Cinema, there is no one size fits all, at least not for me.

At the end of the day, I/we really need to spring for a professional calibration (or buy the equipment to do it ourselves). Re-using others' settings is/was an attempt to improve the image without paying $500 for proper set-up.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

avtoronto said:


> Exactly. Several memory settings needed in order to choose which combination best suits particular content. As much as I like Harpervision, Orcus' Digital Cinema, and Nielvm's Cinema, there is no one size fits all, at least not for me.
> 
> 
> 
> At the end of the day, I/we really need to spring for a professional calibration (or buy the equipment to do it ourselves). Re-using others' settings is/was an attempt to improve the image without paying $500 for proper set-up.



Buy the equipment and give it a go yourself, the x-rite meter you need cost me about $150 and the software and patterns I used were all community sourced. The only major investment I had to make was my time, but that was a non-factor as it was fun to do and learn. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juboy

avtoronto said:


> Exactly. Several memory settings needed in order to choose which combination best suits particular content. As much as I like Harpervision, Orcus' Digital Cinema, and Nielvm's Cinema, there is no one size fits all, at least not for me.



Fair point, but then I'd not expect there to be.





avtoronto said:


> At the end of the day, I/we really need to spring for a professional calibration (or buy the equipment to do it ourselves). Re-using others' settings is/was an attempt to improve the image without paying $500 for proper set-up.



Again, you're likely correct. However, with the better settings posted here and a little tweaking to personal taste, I'm pretty sure my PJ is producing as good an image as it's capable of. Could a pro-calibrator do better? I'm not convinced. In any case, I've never been one to say, 'Yeah, it does look bad but at least it's accurate'. I prefer to think, 'It may not be entirely accurate, but it looks amazing' - and save myself a couple of hundred pounds to spend on beer and popcorn to go with my HDR movies


----------



## avtoronto

OrcusVaruna said:


> Buy the equipment and give it a go yourself, the x-rite meter you need cost me about $150 and the software and patterns I used were all community sourced. The only major investment I had to make was my time, but that was a non-factor as it was fun to do and learn.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well time I do have (I'm retired) but budget not so much so wouldn't mind giving it a go at some point. Could you send me a brief PM with what you use and where you got them from? Thanks.


----------



## Houssem Cherif

hi please someone can help me
i want to know if it is possible to project in 4k 60p hdr or the maximum of the projector 6040ub is 4k 30p hdr 
i thought i saw in forum with wireless we can project in 4k 60p hdr , the problem come from the limitation of brandwish of hdmi in the projector 
so if someone have already tested the wireless can confirm that
thanks


----------



## hdrdude

Does anyone know if there is a way to get any content in 4K & HDR on new Fire TV 4K stick?

I bought Epson 5040ub, new AV receiver Yamaha V385 and new Fire TV 4k stick couple of weeks ago and so far was not able to get 4K and HDR at the same time neither for Amazon Prime Video nor for Netflix titles.
I configured fire stick to match the original framerate which is typically 24 or 25 hz for movies. For numerous titles that claim to be UHD and HDR I am only getting 8 bit color. See attached file for an example.


----------



## dimi123

hdrdude said:


> Does anyone know if there is a way to get any content in 4K & HDR on new Fire TV 4K stick


I don't own a Fire TV 4K, but in order to get 10/12 bits, you'll have to change the color format on the Fire TV from RGB to YCbCr. 4:2:2, if at all possible.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Houssem Cherif said:


> hi please someone can help me
> 
> i want to know if it is possible to project in 4k 60p hdr or the maximum of the projector 6040ub is 4k 30p hdr
> 
> i thought i saw in forum with wireless we can project in 4k 60p hdr , the problem come from the limitation of brandwish of hdmi in the projector
> 
> so if someone have already tested the wireless can confirm that
> 
> thanks




The projector is capable of displaying 4K60 8bit HDR 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Natrix1973

hdrdude said:


> Does anyone know if there is a way to get any content in 4K & HDR on new Fire TV 4K stick?
> 
> I bought Epson 5040ub, new AV receiver Yamaha V385 and new Fire TV 4k stick couple of weeks ago and so far was not able to get 4K and HDR at the same time neither for Amazon Prime Video nor for Netflix titles.
> I configured fire stick to match the original framerate which is typically 24 or 25 hz for movies. For numerous titles that claim to be UHD and HDR I am only getting 8 bit color. See attached file for an example.


Make sure to change the HDMI mode in the advanced menu on the Yamaha to Mode 1, check page 87 of the manual.


----------



## jmeitz

just received my 5040 yesterday and i have two questions.

1. Use to have an 8350 which i had plugged into power conditioner switch to turn power to unit off/on. With the 5040 should i cut power after cool down or just leave the power feed to the projector on at all times?

2. I seem to have some handshake issues with my Yamaha 3070 to where its not outputting hdmi signal unless i unplug the receiver and power it back on. Would cutting power to the 5040 cause handshake issues? never happened on the 8350.


----------



## Dirt9

Cam some one post the latest settings.I have the Harper vision but would like to try the other ones.Thanks


----------



## sddp

*Best player for 3D?*

I've been using my XBOX ONE X for all 3D movies, would getting a separate player such the Sony UBP-X1000ES have a better & more of a 3D pop out?


----------



## Dave Harper

Dirt9 said:


> Cam some one post the latest settings. *I have the Harper vision but would like to try the other ones.*Thanks



You deeply hurt me to the bone!!!


----------



## rbk123

Dave Harper said:


> You deeply hurt me to the bone!!!


----------



## Dirt9

Dave your setting are awesome!I was just curious what people have been up to.All the other settings just look off compared to yours.Im thinking their not using a natural white AT screen?


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

jmeitz said:


> just received my 5040 yesterday and i have two questions.
> 
> 1. Use to have an 8350 which i had plugged into power conditioner switch to turn power to unit off/on. With the 5040 should i cut power after cool down or just leave the power feed to the projector on at all times?
> 
> 2. I seem to have some handshake issues with my Yamaha 3070 to where its not outputting hdmi signal unless i unplug the receiver and power it back on. Would cutting power to the 5040 cause handshake issues? never happened on the 8350.



Just wondering why you wouldn't just use the remote to turn the proj on and off.
[ I also moved from 8350 to 5040, 2 yrs ago.]


----------



## Dave Harper

Dirt9 said:


> Dave your setting are awesome!I was just curious what people have been up to.All the other settings just look off compared to yours.Im thinking their not using a natural white AT screen?



Thanks man! I was just busting your chops. I know mine have a lot to be desired since I lost the CMS and greyscale values. Thankfully others have picked up my slack here.


----------



## jmeitz

ComradeBrehznev said:


> jmeitz said:
> 
> 
> 
> just received my 5040 yesterday and i have two questions.
> 
> 1. Use to have an 8350 which i had plugged into power conditioner switch to turn power to unit off/on. With the 5040 should i cut power after cool down or just leave the power feed to the projector on at all times?
> 
> 2. I seem to have some handshake issues with my Yamaha 3070 to where its not outputting hdmi signal unless i unplug the receiver and power it back on. Would cutting power to the 5040 cause handshake issues? never happened on the 8350.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering why you wouldn't just use the remote to turn the proj on and off.
> [ I also moved from 8350 to 5040, 2 yrs ago.]
Click to expand...

I still use the remote to turn off and on, but there are times where I do not use the projector for several weeks and don’t want it to be sitting idle.


----------



## mcallister

Dirt9 said:


> Cam some one post the latest settings.I have the Harper vision but would like to try the other ones.Thanks


Also waiting, this thread has just become to large to find anything.


----------



## Dirt9

I have daves original gray scale and cms for Harper vision from two years ago if anyone wants them.


----------



## Lesmor

Dirt9 said:


> I have daves original gray scale and cms for Harper vision from two years ago if anyone wants them.


would love to see them
i also imagine Dave would appreciate the missing link in his calibration


----------



## Dirt9

If this is the stuff that has been lost here it is,(R)50 23 50 (G)78 8 50 (B)68 30 50 (C)56 31 50 (M)76 31 50 (Y)44 29 50,I think every thing else is posted about 40 pages back.I have a silver ticket White AT screen and these settings look perfectly natural


----------



## Dirt9

I pull the iris down between 12-9 with the settings posted above. Really natural with inky blacks and shadow detail,perfect skin tones and vibrant colors.Thanks you Dave Harper!


----------



## avtoronto

Dirt9 said:


> Dave your setting are awesome!I was just curious what people have been up to.All the other settings just look off compared to yours.Im thinking their not using a natural white AT screen?


One of the latest settings' summaries can be found here: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190111/f0fe8ec3c74ad364109f21c34af50b00.jpg

Harpervision CMS settings need to be populated per Dirt9's post above.


----------



## avtoronto

avtoronto said:


> One of the latest settings' summaries can be found here: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190111/f0fe8ec3c74ad364109f21c34af50b00.jpg
> 
> Harpervision CMS settings need to be populated per Dirt9's post above.


Note, there is a mistake on the spreadsheet for the Harpervision settings. For Gamma, the third last setting should be -26 not 26, and the second last should be 16. This is per an earlier list of settings posted on the forum. The -26 makes a big difference.


----------



## AdamAttewell

avtoronto said:


> Note, there is a mistake on the spreadsheet for the Harpervision settings. For Gamma, the third last setting should be -26 not 26, and the second last should be 16. This is per an earlier list of settings posted on the forum. The -26 makes a big difference.



It does say -26, the - is on the line above.


----------



## john hunter

Where I and I'm sure many did not notice it!
That may be the reason why Harpervision didn't work for me. 
Will try it again with these new setting so thanks, guys.


----------



## Dave Harper

Dirt9 said:


> I have daves original gray scale and cms for Harper vision from two years ago if anyone wants them.





Dirt9 said:


> If this is the stuff that has been lost here it is,(R)50 23 50 (G)78 8 50 (B)68 30 50 (C)56 31 50 (M)76 31 50 (Y)44 29 50,I think every thing else is posted about 40 pages back.I have a silver ticket White AT screen and these settings look perfectly natural





Dirt9 said:


> I pull the iris down between 12-9 with the settings posted above. Really natural with inky blacks and shadow detail,perfect skin tones and vibrant colors.Thanks you Dave Harper!


Whoah what?!?!?! That’s awesome man! Where’d you get them? Were you an old customer of mine who bought a HarperVision 5040UB?

You’re very welcome Dirt9 and everyone! If you think these look good. Try to go see a BenQ LK970 with my HarperVision settings on that model. You’ll be absolutely blown away and floored for what you can get for the money compared to the high dollar JVCs and Sonys!!! 




Lesmor said:


> would love to see them
> 
> i also imagine Dave would appreciate the missing link in his calibration



Yes I do very much appreciate them!




avtoronto said:


> Note, there is a mistake on the spreadsheet for the Harpervision settings. For Gamma, the third last setting should be -26 not 26, and the second last should be 16. This is per an earlier list of settings posted on the forum. The -26 makes a big difference.





john hunter said:


> Where I and I'm sure many did not notice it!
> That may be the reason why Harpervision didn't work for me.
> Will try it again with these new setting so thanks, guys.



Wow I wonder if that’s why so many folks said to me it looked “washed out” and I was baffled as f**k as to why they’d say that!


----------



## Lithium

Dave Harper said:


> Whoah what?!?!?! That’s awesome man! Where’d you get them? Were you an old customer of mine who bought a HarperVision 5040UB?


Dave, those settings he posted are actually oeldurt's take on HarperVision. I run those settings as well since they are the only ones with CMS data and I'm obviously extremely happy with them.  They are listed in this older sheet that I always reference: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352


----------



## ClerkDante

I’ve read a lot of favorable things about the HDFury Linker and it’s working with this projector. It doesn’t appear to have Mac support for its GUI. Anyone know of a similar device that has Mac support?


----------



## Houssem Cherif

OrcusVaruna said:


> The projector is capable of displaying 4K60 8bit HDR
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


hi but 8bit it's not hdr


----------



## AdamAttewell

Houssem Cherif said:


> hi but 8bit it's not hdr



Yes but for viewing movies which are mostly at 23Hz you can do 4k with HDR no problem. If you must have 60Hz then the 6050 is the one you want.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Houssem Cherif said:


> hi but 8bit it's not hdr



Bit depth has to do with color not high dynamic range. With 8 bit HDR contrast gradations (displayed nits) are fully preserved what is lacking is color steps between each color. The following article explains bit depth quite well https://dgit.com/4k-hdr-guide-45905/amp/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


> Bit depth has to do with color not high dynamic range. With 8 bit HDR contrast gradations (displayed nits) are fully preserved what is lacking is color steps between each color. The following article explains bit depth quite well https://dgit.com/4k-hdr-guide-45905/amp/
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I have lost your digital cinema settings I know they are in this thread somewhere but I have spent the last 30 mins looking for them & cant find them.


Can you post them again please?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> I have lost your digital cinema settings I know they are in this thread somewhere but I have spent the last 30 mins looking for them & cant find them.
> 
> 
> Can you post them again please?


They are the first column on the left side of the spreadsheet 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## OrcusVaruna

So I haven’t played a source at 1080 for months without 4K enhancement turned on. So this morning I was getting ready for the SuperBowl so I put my ATV4K to output 1080 so I can use frame interpolation for the game and these odd vertical red lines are present that I can’t correct out with panel alignment or color uniformity. They disappear as soon as I put on 4K enhancement which makes me think it’s a panel issue masked by the pixel shifting. Anyone have any thoughts? Guess I’ll be calling Epson tomorrow for a replacement 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

OrcusVaruna said:


> So I haven’t played a source at 1080 for months without 4K enhancement turned on. So this morning I was getting ready for the SuperBowl so I put my ATV4K to output 1080 so I can use frame interpolation for the game and these odd vertical red lines are present that I can’t correct out with panel alignment or color uniformity. They disappear as soon as I put on 4K enhancement which makes me think it’s a panel issue masked by the pixel shifting. Anyone have any thoughts? Guess I’ll be calling Epson tomorrow for a replacement
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



That sucks, I will have a look at mine tonight with 4k enhancement off, I presume its more obvious with static images? 



I presume you have tried a different source device to make sure its not the source at fault? Just a thought. 



I wish you luck with Epson I dont know what Epson USA is like but over here in the UK I have had a great experience when dealing when them.


Many thanks for posting the settings again.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

AdamAttewell said:


> That sucks, I will have a look at mine tonight with 4k enhancement off, I presume its more obvious with static images?
> 
> 
> 
> I presume you have tried a different source device to make sure its not the source at fault? Just a thought.
> 
> 
> 
> I wish you luck with Epson I dont know what Epson USA is like but over here in the UK I have had a great experience when dealing when them.
> 
> 
> Many thanks for posting the settings again.



Thanks man I have tried multiple sources and my experience with epson has been much the same. I am just a bit irritated as this will be my 3rd one in the year since I purchased it. For a $3000 piece of equipment I expect better quality control. I think I’ll stamp my feet and see if I can get a new one instead of a refurb lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

Lithium said:


> Dave, those settings he posted are actually oeldurt's take on HarperVision. I run those settings as well since they are the only ones with CMS data and I'm obviously extremely happy with them.  They are listed in this older sheet that I always reference: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352


Correct, good spotting. I use this sheet too but didn't think to check. So we are back to Harpervision without the R/G/B/C/M/Y settings, unless adopting oledurt's suggestions.


----------



## welldun

OrcusVaruna said:


> I really don’t understand what everyone’s issue is with HDR once one is using a proper 1000 nit calibration. I have no issues viewing any streaming content, playing games via my Xbox one x or watching a uhd Blu-ray via my Ub820 (set on the middle 1000nit display type). I feel like you all are running into issues because you’re fiddling with the settings myself and others have posted and not correcting for any changes this introduces to the black and white clipping points. If you make sure the full 1000 nit patterns are displaying after your fiddling you should have no issues and be able to display any 1000 nit source correctly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Orcus,

A big thanks to you and everyone else who has provided their calibration settings. If it is not too much trouble, can you explain a bit further what we should and should not fiddle with when adapting your settings to our setups? Perhaps a provide a short list of the settings that should be adjusted based on the individuals viewing conditions vs the ones that should be left alone. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Tristan944

Best settings for Sports?

TV's have 120hz and 240hz for Sports. What is the equivalent for the projector?


----------



## roland6465

tristan944 said:


> best settings for sports?
> 
> Tv's have 120hz and 240hz for sports. What is the equivalent for the projector?


lololololol!!


----------



## john hunter

avtoronto said:


> Correct, good spotting. I use this sheet too but didn't think to check. So we are back to Harpervision without the R/G/B/C/M/Y settings, unless adopting oledurt's suggestions.


 
Well I have been throwing all I can at Dave's setting using the cms settings recently brought to light and all I can say is f..king fantastic!!!
It made the worst transfer I have, Assassin's Creed very watchable indeed.


I have had my 9300 for about six weeks and have been having a fair old time trying all the settings that you thoughtful guys have posted.
Did try Dave's setting before but no way did the result compare to these current settings.


Recommend them most highly and send a great vote of thanks to Mr Harper.


----------



## Dave Harper

john hunter said:


> Well I have been throwing all I can at Dave's setting using the cms settings recently brought to light and all I can say is f..king fantastic!!!
> It made the worst transfer I have, Assassin's Creed very watchable indeed.
> 
> 
> I have had my 9300 for about six weeks and have been having a fair old time trying all the settings that you thoughtful guys have posted.
> Did try Dave's setting before but no way did the result compare to these current settings.
> 
> 
> Recommend them most highly and send a great vote of thanks to Mr Harper.



You’re very welcome! Don’t forget to thank Oledurt too. Where’s he been anyway?


----------



## antr

Houssem Cherif said:


> hi but 8bit it's not hdr


Here you can see what minimum is required for HDR, than it's up to each device to accept signal.
TW9300 accept 24Hz 4:2:2 12 bit despite datarange of 11.14GBPS


----------



## ac388

*Cms*



Dave Harper said:


> You’re very welcome! Don’t forget to thank Oledurt too. Where’s he been anyway?


Hi Dave,

Do u mind to show me the link of the recently discovered CMS setting ? Thanks


----------



## Tweakophyte

Dave Harper said:


> Whoah what?!?!?! That’s awesome man! Where’d you get them? Were you an old customer of mine who bought a HarperVision 5040UB?
> 
> 
> 
> Wow I wonder if that’s why so many folks said to me it looked “washed out” and I was baffled as f**k as to why they’d say that!


Please remind me... on the Panny820 would you use SDR/BT.2020 with these settings (or HDR)? If not, how would you change these setting?

Thx


----------



## Tweakophyte

john hunter said:


> Well I have been throwing all I can at Dave's setting using the cms settings recently brought to light and all I can say is f..king fantastic!!!
> It made the worst transfer I have, Assassin's Creed very watchable indeed.
> 
> 
> I have had my 9300 for about six weeks and have been having a fair old time trying all the settings that you thoughtful guys have posted.
> Did try Dave's setting before but no way did the result compare to these current settings.
> 
> 
> Recommend them most highly and send a great vote of thanks to Mr Harper.


Hi. Are you using the Harpervision in the posts/spreadsheet plus the CMS posted by Dirt9? What player are you using? What output? Thanks!

(reposted here)


Dirt9 said:


> If this is the stuff that has been lost here it is,(R)50 23 50 (G)78 8 50 (B)68 30 50 (C)56 31 50 (M)76 31 50 (Y)44 29 50,I think every thing else is posted about 40 pages back.I have a silver ticket White AT screen and these settings look perfectly natural


----------



## Dirt9

john hunter said:


> Well I have been throwing all I can at Dave's setting using the cms settings recently brought to light and all I can say is f..king fantastic!!!
> It made the worst transfer I have, Assassin's Creed very watchable indeed.
> 
> 
> I have had my 9300 for about six weeks and have been having a fair old time trying all the settings that you thoughtful guys have posted.
> Did try Dave's setting before but no way did the result compare to these current settings.
> 
> 
> Recommend them most highly and send a great vote of thanks to Mr Harper.


Try pulling the second gamma point to -30,the third to -26,seven up -14,brightness to 68 and color to 90,working these along with contrast can get you more pop.I think orcus originally was suggesting this tweak.


----------



## Dirt9

I have a low cost AT screen and have to drive it really hard though


----------



## Dirt9

For those of you running in natural or bright cinema,do you notice the dark scenes such as most of alien covenant or any other movie night scenes have a bluish tint them?.I haven't been able to use bright cinema or natural because of this.it just drives me crazy,but when I engage digital cinema it goes away,Im thinking of sending it in for warranty but am afraid of falling into the the power failure saga that so many have had to deal with!


----------



## MMoser

I have the blue tint where it should be black problem too. I tried switching different modes with no luck. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dirt9

MMoser said:


> I have the blue tint where it should be black problem too. I tried switching different modes with no luck.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Do you think its normal for a lcd chip set and were just overly sensitive to it?


----------



## john hunter

Dirt9 said:


> Try pulling the second gamma point to -30,the third to -26,seven up -14,brightness to 68 and color to 90,working these along with contrast can get you more pop.I think orcus originally was suggesting this tweak.


 Will do so.
I only have about 40 hours use on the PJ so I guess the settings will need adjusting as the lamp settles down.
I'm using the Oppo 203.
And thanks to oledurt too!


----------



## MMoser

Dirt9 said:


> Do you think its normal for a lcd chip set and were just overly sensitive to it?


Could be.. Forgot to mention it only happens when watching HDR, I use madvr to tonemap. SDR looks as it should. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Tweakophyte said:


> Please remind me... on the Panny820 would you use SDR/BT.2020 with these settings (or HDR)? If not, how would you change these setting?
> 
> 
> 
> Thx



My HarperVision settings are based on receiving an HDR signal, so you’d use HDR/BT2020.

For SDR/2020 you would just use your normal SDR mode settings, not HarperVision. 

I would try both and see which one you prefer. I haven’t used an 820 on a 5040 myself since it wasn’t out when I sold my last one. 





ac388 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> 
> 
> Do u mind to show me the link of the recently discovered CMS setting ? Thanks


See this post a few below yours:


Tweakophyte said:


> Hi. Are you using the Harpervision in the posts/spreadsheet plus the CMS posted by Dirt9? What player are you using? What output? Thanks!
> 
> 
> Dirt9 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If this is the stuff that has been lost here it is,(R)50 23 50 (G)78 8 50 (B)68 30 50 (C)56 31 50 (M)76 31 50 (Y)44 29 50,I think every thing else is posted about 40 pages back.I have a silver ticket White AT screen and these settings look perfectly natural
> 
> 
> 
> (reposted here)
Click to expand...





Dirt9 said:


> For those of you running in natural or bright cinema,do you notice the dark scenes such as most of alien covenant or any other movie night scenes have a bluish tint them?.I haven't been able to use bright cinema or natural because of this.it just drives me crazy,but when I engage digital cinema it goes away,Im thinking of sending it in for warranty but am afraid of falling into the the power failure saga that so many have had to deal with!





Dirt9 said:


> Do you think its normal for a lcd chip set and were just overly sensitive to it?





MMoser said:


> Could be.. Forgot to mention it only happens when watching HDR, I use madvr to tonemap. SDR looks as it should.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



It’s probably because you’re using a mode designed for Rec709 colors but sending in BT2020/P3 which has a much wider color gamut, of which blue is usually widest so it’s showing up in content more. When you use Digital Cinema it engages the P3 filter designed for BT2020/P3 so it then expects that input signal and looks normal.


----------



## rfb6435

antr said:


> Here you can see what minimum is required for HDR, than it's up to each device to accept signal.
> TW9300 accept 24Hz 4:2:2 12 bit despite datarange of 11.14GBPS


It does by processing it at 24Hz 4:2:2 10bit which isn't in the table. 

I think it is a lesser supported format so it just accepts it as 12bit for wider compatibility. Someone else likely knows more about support for 24Hz 4:2:2 10bit than I do.

https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H713020~faq-0000530-plhc5040ub

-Rich


----------



## MMoser

Dave Harper said:


> My HarperVision settings are based on receiving an HDR signal, so you’d use HDR/BT2020.
> 
> For SDR/2020 you would just use your normal SDR mode settings, not HarperVision.
> 
> I would try both and see which one you prefer. I haven’t used an 820 on a 5040 myself since it wasn’t out when I sold my last one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See this post a few below yours:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It’s probably because you’re using a mode designed for Rec709 colors but sending in BT2020/P3 which has a much wider color gamut, of which blue is usually widest so it’s showing up in content more. When you use Digital Cinema it engages the P3 filter designed for BT2020/P3 so it then expects that input signal and looks normal.


Thanks Mr. Harper. That makes sense. I also have a occurrence of a red cast in some dark scenes. Specifically at the end of HP Goblet of Fire when Harry uses the port key after escaping V. I have to use HDR 1 on that title to get correct colors back vs. keeping it in SDR/2020. I think I'm doing something wrong... 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dirt9

Dave Harper said:


> My HarperVision settings are based on receiving an HDR signal, so you’d use HDR/BT2020.
> 
> For SDR/2020 you would just use your normal SDR mode settings, not HarperVision.
> 
> I would try both and see which one you prefer. I haven’t used an 820 on a 5040 myself since it wasn’t out when I sold my last one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See this post a few below yours:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It’s probably because you’re using a mode designed for Rec709 colors but sending in BT2020/P3 which has a much wider color gamut, of which blue is usually widest so it’s showing up in content more. When you use Digital Cinema it engages the P3 filter designed for BT2020/P3 so it then expects that input signal and looks normal.


Unfortunately in my case I have the blue tint in any color mode even in sdr 709 blue ray with factory settings,I think I have a bad polarizer.I have to stay in digital cinema or cinema to not see it?have had this issue since the projector was new and thought I was just overly sensitive to it and as posted above am afraid of the warranty prosses with only a year left of warranty lol.If I could figure out how to import a picure I would lol


----------



## pete ramberg

Dave - quick question: is your Harpervision settings for an HDR inputted signal? If so, then what is the significance of using "SDR" for the mode??Is it to force the software into thinking the input is SDR?? And, if so, how come?

Just curious.

Thanks.


Dave Harper said:


> My HarperVision settings are based on receiving an HDR signal, so you’d use HDR/BT2020.
> 
> For SDR/2020 you would just use your normal SDR mode settings, not HarperVision.
> 
> I would try both and see which one you prefer. I haven’t used an 820 on a 5040 myself since it wasn’t out when I sold my last one.


----------



## Lithium

Tweakophyte said:


> Please remind me... on the Panny820 would you use SDR/BT.2020 with these settings (or HDR)? If not, how would you change these setting?
> 
> Thx


Keep full HDR signal as mentioned and run HDR Optimizer ON with Display Type set to Middle Luminance. This will use disk metadata to map HDR content to 1000 nits, which is the sweet spot for HarperVision.

HarperVision takes in an HDR signal but the Projector uses a highly modified SDR profile which essentially performs a homemade tone map.

Settings sheet with CMS is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352


----------



## avtoronto

Lithium said:


> Keep full HDR signal as mentioned and run HDR Optimizer ON with Display Type set to Middle Luminance. This will use disk metadata to map HDR content to 1000 nits, which is the sweet spot for HarperVision.
> 
> HarperVision takes in an HDR signal but the Projector uses a highly modified SDR profile which essentially performs a homemade tone map.
> 
> Settings sheet with CMS is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352


In the 820 thread, when the 820 is putting out HDR, there was a concern about the 820 tone mapping and then a projector also tone mapping, essentially double tone mapping. Should we ignore this aspect? Just curious and looking to increase my understanding.


----------



## Lithium

avtoronto said:


> In the 820 thread, when the 820 is putting out HDR, there was a concern about the 820 tone mapping and then a projector also tone mapping, essentially double tone mapping. Should we ignore this aspect? Just curious and looking to increase my understanding.


Yeah, higher end projectors have an easy way to set a specific gamma required for SDR/2020 playback (it's either 2.2 or 2.4 I forget which one). This is not trivial on the Epson with how the gamma controls and CMS are interlinked, or so I've been told. This would be the best method with the 820.

So unfortunately, we are stuck tone mapping a full HDR signal. You can choose to do it with an HDR mode or use something like HarperVison.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

avtoronto said:


> In the 820 thread, when the 820 is putting out HDR, there was a concern about the 820 tone mapping and then a projector also tone mapping, essentially double tone mapping. Should we ignore this aspect? Just curious and looking to increase my understanding.


Although the 820 can handle “double tone mapping”, I would set the it to output SDR.2020, and the Epson to gamma 2.2 or 2.4. IOW, let the 820 handle the tone mapping.


----------



## bigbadbob

Strangest thing happened tonight while watching Transformers the Last Knight in 4K. The aspect ratio kept changing from 16:9 to 2.35:1! Can somebody help out with why this could happen? Setup is an Oppo 203 to a Denon 7200WA to the 5040 all with certified hdmi cable.


----------



## bluer101

bigbadbob said:


> Strangest thing happened tonight while watching Transformers the Last Knight in 4K. The aspect ratio kept changing from 16:9 to 2.35:1! Can somebody help out with why this could happen? Setup is an Oppo 203 to a Denon 7200WA to the 5040 all with certified hdmi cable.


Variable aspect ratio.


----------



## bigbadbob

Help a newbie; how to correct?


----------



## welldun

bigbadbob said:


> Help a newbie; how to correct?


I believe that's how the movie was shot. There are a few other films that change the ratio throughout the movie...not much you can do about it.


----------



## bigbadbob

That’s crazy! I have a 2.35 screen. Would be great to just have one aspect ratio per movie! 😳


----------



## Tweakophyte

Dave Harper said:


> My HarperVision settings are based on receiving an HDR signal, so you’d use HDR/BT2020.
> 
> For SDR/2020 you would just use your normal SDR mode settings, not HarperVision.
> 
> I would try both and see which one you prefer. I haven’t used an 820 on a 5040 myself since it wasn’t out when I sold my last one.





Dominic Chan said:


> Although the 820 can handle “double tone mapping”, I would set the it to output SDR.2020, and the Epson to gamma 2.2 or 2.4. IOW, let the 820 handle the tone mapping.


... semi-conflicting information. Is there an SDR version of HarperVision that is designed for an SDR/BT.2020 (versus an SDR Rec709)? I'd like to keep the Panny820 in a single mode and limit the amount of changes I need to make to the PJ.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

welldun said:


> Orcus,
> 
> 
> 
> A big thanks to you and everyone else who has provided their calibration settings. If it is not too much trouble, can you explain a bit further what we should and should not fiddle with when adapting your settings to our setups? Perhaps a provide a short list of the settings that should be adjusted based on the individuals viewing conditions vs the ones that should be left alone. Thanks in advance.



It’s very difficult to say exactly what changes to make for each room and screen but I can offer a pretty quick way of adjusting my settings to fit your room without a meter or other expensive equipment. If you have an iPhone X, Samsung Galaxy/Note, the new iPad Pro, Microsoft SP4 or other high end device with a display manufacturer calibrated for HDR (which those are and VERY accurately actually), download an HDR clip or ITunes movie and play it back on both screens stopping at a high contrast colorful outdoor scene (the most important thing is that it is the exact same file played on each device and preferably the same app, I prefer a file played on VLC or via Plex). Then adjust the colors using the color temp settings, you should be able to get pretty close with just those allowing you to avoid messing with the RGBCMY menu, which you really need a meter to adjust. Once your happy with the color use a 1000nit pattern (there are links to download free patterns on hdr calibration threads in this forum) and display it using a chromecast ultra, plex, or other device/app that can properly display 4K HDR files. Then double check you didn’t alter the contrast settings by messing with the color temp gains and offsets and adjust contrast/brightness if necessary. 

Is this method perfect? Absolutely not, BUT while the human eye & brain are terrible at remembering color they just so happen to be fantastic at picking up minute differences between the colors displayed by two different screens especially the color temperature differences of those screens. So by using a display you know is correct and matching the projector to that screen as closely as you can by eye will yield results they will get you 90% of the way there. Hope this helps and let me know if you have anymore questions. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

Tweakophyte said:


> ... semi-conflicting information. Is there an SDR version of HarperVision that is designed for an SDR/BT.2020 (versus an SDR Rec709)? I'd like to keep the Panny820 in a single mode and limit the amount of changes I need to make to the PJ.


Not conflicting at all. Dave Harper’s post also said both will work.

I don’t know why you would look for “an SDR version of HarperVision”; you just need to use a standard 2.2 or 2.4 gamma, but with BT.2020 colour space.


----------



## Lithium

Dominic Chan said:


> you just need to use a standard 2.2 or 2.4 gamma, but with BT.2020 colour space.


Easier said than done, Epson does not provide a trivial way to do this (unlike JVC). I've been told by others in this thread that it is difficult and to my knowledge no one has done it yet. But, if you have some insight into how to achieve such a configuration then I'm all ears.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Lithium said:


> Easier said than done, Epson does not provide a trivial way to do this (unlike JVC). I've been told by others in this thread that it is difficult and to my knowledge no one has done it yet. But, if you have some insight into how to achieve such a configuration then I'm all ears.


I had a 5040UB and had no difficulty getting standard gamma 2.2 or 2.4. It was custom gamma that's hard to get, because of the limited number of control points and limited range of adjustments. In any case, even if it was difficult to achieve, why would an "SDR HarperVision" (whatever it means) be easier to achieve?


----------



## Dave Harper

pete ramberg said:


> Dave - quick question: is your Harpervision settings for an HDR inputted signal? If so, then what is the significance of using "SDR" for the mode??Is it to force the software into thinking the input is SDR?? And, if so, how come?
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Yes they’re for a full HDR signal being sent into the display. The reason you set the display to SDR in this case is to be able to manually tone map the signal to be brighter and more conducive to a lower nit display such as your typical Home Theater projector. This is pretty much what players like the Panasonic 820 (and Lumagen and MadVR) are now doing in the source device. It’s just a matter of where it’s done really. 

For my BenQ LK970 I prefer it done at the projector, mainly because I have the control over what kind of look I want, and then the 820’s Optimizer maps it to the 1,000 or so nits I calibrated and “HarperVisioned” it to. 

This Note from the Lumagen Radiance Pro manual sums it up nicely:













Tweakophyte said:


> ... semi-conflicting information. Is there an SDR version of HarperVision that is designed for an SDR/BT.2020 (versus an SDR Rec709)? I'd like to keep the Panny820 in a single mode and limit the amount of changes I need to make to the PJ.





Dominic Chan said:


> Not conflicting at all. Dave Harper’s post also said both will work.
> 
> 
> 
> I don’t know why you would look for “an SDR version of HarperVision”; you just need to use a standard 2.2 or 2.4 gamma, but with BT.2020 colour space.






avtoronto said:


> In the 820 thread, when the 820 is putting out HDR, there was a concern about the 820 tone mapping and then a projector also tone mapping, essentially double tone mapping. Should we ignore this aspect? Just curious and looking to increase my understanding.





Dominic Chan said:


> Although the 820 can handle “double tone mapping”, I would set the it to output SDR.2020, and the Epson to gamma 2.2 or 2.4. IOW, let the 820 handle the tone mapping.



I have found that sending full HDR with the HDR Optimizer engaged on the UB820 into a BenQ LK970 with HarperVision mods to be the best solution and image by far over using SDR/BT2020 from the 820 into the LK970 in SDR mode with a 2.4 gamma. 

As I said, I encourage all to try both though as I haven’t done this experiment on a 5040 to see which is better with this model.

To answer your other question, I thought you could get SDR/BT2020 with a 2.4 gamma by just selecting Digital Cinema mode which engages the P3 color filter, then you manually go into SDR mode and select 2.4 as the gamma? I swear that’s all I had to do when I had a 5040 here last time, but it’s been quite a while and my memory could be off.


----------



## Tweakophyte

Dave Harper said:


> To answer your other question, I thought you could get SDR/BT2020 with a 2.4 gamma by just selecting Digital Cinema mode which engages the P3 color filter, then you manually go into SDR mode and select 2.4 as the gamma? I swear that’s all I had to do when I had a 5040 here last time, but it’s been quite a while and my memory could be off.


The gamma settings don't call out their standard (i.e. show +1, 0, -1 vs 2.2, 2.4). Does anyone know the conversion?

By the way, I played around with the original and orcus mod of the HV settings last nigh and found them very dark compared to an unmodified setting. This was when feeding them the SDR/BT.2020 signal. I did not play with turning on HDR. If I am reading correctly, you are saying your settings * require * an HDR signal and may need some tweaking with the optimizer, correct? Are you also suggesting the have the player map at 1000 nits versus the projector mode of 300nits?

From here I want to understand that if I want to use SDR/BT.2020 I should stick to a more conventional set-up with the standard gamma? Either here or on the Panny820 thread several were saying the SDR/BT.2020 was a better way to go for a projector, since a PJ has limited light output. I forget if you opined on that.

Sorry I didn't buy this last year so your thoughts would have been fresher.  Sorry if this is a rehash of everything you've been saying. My goal is to limit the number of settings I need in various scenarios of 4K, 1080p, Netflix, Amazon coming out of the player, and a few TV modes.

Thanks again!


----------



## avtoronto

Dave Harper said:


> Yes they’re for a full HDR signal being sent into the display. The reason you set the display to SDR in this case is to be able to manually tone map the signal to be brighter and more conducive to a lower nit display such as your typical Home Theater projector. This is pretty much what players like the Panasonic 820 (and Lumagen and MadVR) are now doing in the source device. It’s just a matter of where it’s done really.
> 
> For my BenQ LK970 I prefer it done at the projector, mainly because I have the control over what kind of look I want, and then the 820’s Optimizer maps it to the 1,000 or so nits I calibrated and “HarperVisioned” it to.
> 
> This Note from the Lumagen Radiance Pro manual sums it up nicely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have found that sending full HDR with the HDR Optimizer engaged on the UB820 into a BenQ LK970 with HarperVision mods to be the best solution and image by far over using SDR/BT2020 from the 820 into the LK970 in SDR mode with a 2.4 gamma.
> 
> As I said, I encourage all to try both though as I haven’t done this experiment on a 5040 to see which is better with this model.
> 
> To answer your other question, I thought you could get SDR/BT2020 with a 2.4 gamma by just selecting Digital Cinema mode which engages the P3 color filter, then you manually go into SDR mode and select 2.4 as the gamma? I swear that’s all I had to do when I had a 5040 here last time, but it’s been quite a while and my memory could be off.


The projector offers the following gamma values: 2, 1, 0, -1, -2. It's been said in this thread that -2 is the closest to achieving a gamma of 2.4.


----------



## JumpDontThink

I've read through this thread many times. Used many of the posted user settings. Experimented for 2 years with this PJ to get HDR looking good and never been truly content. But I think I've stumbled across something which looks good.

The main points

*UB820*
Colour output: SDR/BT2020
HDR Type: Basic Luminance LCD & Projector
HDR Optimiser: On
Dynamic range conversion: -6

*Epson*
Digital Cinema Mode
High Lamp
Auto iris
Super white on
Gamma -2

Then adjust brightness and contrast settings against some patterns for your environment.

Then I just simply copied my colour settings from my SDR calibration.


----------



## tlogan6797

bigbadbob said:


> Strangest thing happened tonight while watching Transformers the Last Knight in 4K. The aspect ratio kept changing from 16:9 to 2.35:1! Can somebody help out with why this could happen? Setup is an Oppo 203 to a Denon 7200WA to the 5040 all with certified hdmi cable.


Yes, this happens all the time. I see it in CGI heavy movies where the live action is shot at 235 and the CGI rendered at 16:9. Transfomers was probably the WORST. I have also noticed it in MI:Fallout when they are about to jump out of the plane. When you have a 235 screen, once you see it, you can't unsee it.

My one disappointment with my upgrade from the Panny 4000 to the 5040 is that Epson advertises it's auto lens memory as constant image Height, when in reality, it is constant image Width, if you have a 235 screen. Maybe I'm missing something, because I don't really see anyone complaining about this.

When you set the lens memory to fill the 235 screen with 235 content and a 16:9 scene pops up, the WIDTH remains the same and the top and bottom are off the screen. Conversely, if I set the 16:9 to fill the 235 screen top and bottom (which leaves white screen on the sides) and a 235 scene pops up, it shrinks to fit within that 16:9 setting leaving white screen on the sides AND black bars on the top and bottom. To resize the images, you need to hit the lens memory buttons on the remote and then you get a message in the middle of the screen saying that the lens is changing. No kidding, really? I JUST pushed the button, I KNOW it's changing. (Granted that annoying message was a problem with the Panny 4000 and it wasn't made configurable until the 5000's came out.)

Personally, I MUCH prefer that the 235 be the largest (and most immersive) image. My room is height constrained, so the wide screen made the most sense. The way it worked with the Pannys resulted in true Constant Image Height. The Lens memories were set at the AR input level. This meant that when 235 content was displayed, the image filled the entire 235 screen and when 16:9 popped up the lens AUTOMATICALLY reset to the 16:9 setting filling the top and bottom and leaving the white screen on the sides.

If anyone has figured out how to set the lens memories at AR input, or constrain images sizes to the top and bottom of the screen without having to press buttons on the remote, I'd be grateful to know how to set it.


----------



## seplant

tlogan6797 said:


> Yes, this happens all the time. I see it in CGI heavy movies where the live action is shot at 235 and the CGI rendered at 16:9. Transfomers was probably the WORST. I have also noticed it in MI:Fallout when they are about to jump out of the plane. When you have a 235 screen, once you see it, you can't unsee it.
> 
> 
> 
> My one disappointment with my upgrade from the Panny 4000 to the 5040 is that Epson advertises it's auto lens memory as constant image Height, when in reality, it is constant image Width, if you have a 235 screen. Maybe I'm missing something, because I don't really see anyone complaining about this.
> 
> 
> 
> When you set the lens memory to fill the 235 screen with 235 content and a 16:9 scene pops up, the WIDTH remains the same and the top and bottom are off the screen. Conversely, if I set the 16:9 to fill the 235 screen top and bottom (which leaves white screen on the sides) and a 235 scene pops up, it shrinks to fit within that 16:9 setting leaving white screen on the sides AND black bars on the top and bottom. To resize the images, you need to hit the lens memory buttons on the remote and then you get a message in the middle of the screen saying that the lens is changing. No kidding, really? I JUST pushed the button, I KNOW it's changing. (Granted that annoying message was a problem with the Panny 4000 and it wasn't made configurable until the 5000's came out.)
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I MUCH prefer that the 235 be the largest (and most immersive) image. My room is height constrained, so the wide screen made the most sense. The way it worked with the Pannys resulted in true Constant Image Height. The Lens memories were set at the AR input level. This meant that when 235 content was displayed, the image filled the entire 235 screen and when 16:9 popped up the lens AUTOMATICALLY reset to the 16:9 setting filling the top and bottom and leaving the white screen on the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has figured out how to set the lens memories at AR input, or constrain images sizes to the top and bottom of the screen without having to press buttons on the remote, I'd be grateful to know how to set it.


There is a way to maintain constant height during films with variable aspect ratios. It's not ideal, but it works. If you know a movie has changing aspect ratios (such as MI Fallout, the Dark Knight, or most recent MCU films in 3D), start the movie at a point where it is in a 2.35:1 screen ratio. Go to the projector Menu and look for a feature called Blanking under the Signal menu. This feature allows you to blank out the top and bottom of the image as much as you want. In this case, you would reduce the top and bottom until just before the top and bottom of the movie image. You'll be missing the larger IMAX part of those scenes, but you also won't have to fiddle with your lens memory in the middle of the movie. Another downside of this feature is that you can't save blanking settings to the projector memory. Unless you keep the top and bottom blanked all the time (which also would cut off parts of Blu-ray menus), you'll have to set the blanking at the start of every movie that has variable aspect ratios.


----------



## tlogan6797

@seplant - I appreciate that but it is not optimal. You usually don't know about the variable aspect ratios until you are in the middle of the film. So you have to watch the film to see if it has variable aspects and then set the blanking and THEN watch the movie. I guess pressing the Lens Mem button on the remote is easier. For now, I leave it set on the 16:9 and live with the smaller widescreen. That just seems so backward to me. On a 16:9 TV there's nothing you can do about it, but we buy these projectors to have the full immersion and they can handle the variable aspects in ways that TVs can't.

The thing the bothers me is that I KNOW it can be done...Panasonic did it 10 years ago and it worked flawlessly.


----------



## bigbadbob

tlogan6797 said:


> Yes, this happens all the time. I see it in CGI heavy movies where the live action is shot at 235 and the CGI rendered at 16:9. Transfomers was probably the WORST. I have also noticed it in MI:Fallout when they are about to jump out of the plane. When you have a 235 screen, once you see it, you can't unsee it.
> 
> My one disappointment with my upgrade from the Panny 4000 to the 5040 is that Epson advertises it's auto lens memory as constant image Height, when in reality, it is constant image Width, if you have a 235 screen. Maybe I'm missing something, because I don't really see anyone complaining about this.
> 
> When you set the lens memory to fill the 235 screen with 235 content and a 16:9 scene pops up, the WIDTH remains the same and the top and bottom are off the screen. Conversely, if I set the 16:9 to fill the 235 screen top and bottom (which leaves white screen on the sides) and a 235 scene pops up, it shrinks to fit within that 16:9 setting leaving white screen on the sides AND black bars on the top and bottom. To resize the images, you need to hit the lens memory buttons on the remote and then you get a message in the middle of the screen saying that the lens is changing. No kidding, really? I JUST pushed the button, I KNOW it's changing. (Granted that annoying message was a problem with the Panny 4000 and it wasn't made configurable until the 5000's came out.)
> 
> Personally, I MUCH prefer that the 235 be the largest (and most immersive) image. My room is height constrained, so the wide screen made the most sense. The way it worked with the Pannys resulted in true Constant Image Height. The Lens memories were set at the AR input level. This meant that when 235 content was displayed, the image filled the entire 235 screen and when 16:9 popped up the lens AUTOMATICALLY reset to the 16:9 setting filling the top and bottom and leaving the white screen on the sides.
> 
> If anyone has figured out how to set the lens memories at AR input, or constrain images sizes to the top and bottom of the screen without having to press buttons on the remote, I'd be grateful to know how to set it.


That's why I purchased a 130", 2.35:1 screen. I was under the assumption I would be ok with a 2.35:1 screen with the 5040s ability to zoom and lens shift. I am extremely frustrated now and looking for help. I play 4k movies through my Oppo 203 through a Denon 7200WA to my 5040. it seems as though I'm only getting 16:9 content for some reason! I'm not a total newbie but thought I could figure this out fairly simply. Don't know what the heck I'm doing wrong. If I have an incorrect setting or just stupid and missed something. It's a new setup so my wife is being patient but if I don't figure it out I'm going to be in a world of hurt. Thinking about taking a hammer to the entire system. Somebody help!

I've messed around with the zoom, lens shift and blanking but I'm struggling. Like I stated it seems that 2.35 movies are shown in 16:9 and I'm frustrated. I'm wondering if I have a setting screwed up somewhere in the chain. I would assume that 2.35 or 2.4 movies would still display in that format...?


----------



## tlogan6797

> I was under the assumption I would be ok with a 2.35:1 screen with the 5040s ability to zoom and lens shift.


As was I. Even the reviews that I read and watched prior to purchase talked about setting the lens memory for CIH, but now I realize the video reviews never showed it in action, which would point out the problem.


It's not just movies with this issue. A LOT of commercials are in widescreen so it happens while watching TV. At least I'm not _quite_ as annoyed when it's a commercial that gets shrunk down.


----------



## seplant

tlogan6797 said:


> @seplant - I appreciate that but it is not optimal. You usually don't know about the variable aspect ratios until you are in the middle of the film. So you have to watch the film to see if it has variable aspects and then set the blanking and THEN watch the movie. I guess pressing the Lens Mem button on the remote is easier. For now, I leave it set on the 16:9 and live with the smaller widescreen. That just seems so backward to me. On a 16:9 TV there's nothing you can do about it, but we buy these projectors to have the full immersion and they can handle the variable aspects in ways that TVs can't.
> 
> 
> 
> The thing the bothers me is that I KNOW it can be done...Panasonic did it 10 years ago and it worked flawlessly.


It may not be optimal, but it's about all you can do. The problem is the source material, not the projector. I don't know of any other projectors in this price range that can do any better (and there are plenty in this price range that don't have lens memory at all). 

Also, you can always do a little research before watching a movie you aren't familiar with to determine if it has variable aspect ratios. There is just such a thread right here on AVS: see the “List of Variable Aspect Ratio Movies on Blu-ray“ thread.


----------



## tlogan6797

Thanks, I'll take a look at the thread.

I disagree that :


> The problem is the source material, not the projector


. The Panasonic 4000 (PTAE4000E) does this flawlessly. I'm sire Epson could do it if they wanted to.

From the PT AE4000 user manual. Note the combination of Lens memory and AUTOSwitching based on aspect ratio works perfectly to maintain true Constant Image Height.


----------



## gene4ht

tlogan6797 said:


> Yes, this happens all the time. I see it in CGI heavy movies where the live action is shot at 235 and the CGI rendered at 16:9. Transfomers was probably the WORST. I have also noticed it in MI:Fallout when they are about to jump out of the plane. When you have a 235 screen, once you see it, you can't unsee it.
> 
> My one disappointment with my upgrade from the Panny 4000 to the 5040 is that Epson advertises it's auto lens memory as constant image Height, when in reality, it is constant image Width, if you have a 235 screen. Maybe I'm missing something, because I don't really see anyone complaining about this.
> 
> When you set the lens memory to fill the 235 screen with 235 content and a 16:9 scene pops up, the WIDTH remains the same and the top and bottom are off the screen. Conversely, if I set the 16:9 to fill the 235 screen top and bottom (which leaves white screen on the sides) and a 235 scene pops up, it shrinks to fit within that 16:9 setting leaving white screen on the sides AND black bars on the top and bottom. To resize the images, you need to hit the lens memory buttons on the remote and then you get a message in the middle of the screen saying that the lens is changing. No kidding, really? I JUST pushed the button, I KNOW it's changing. (Granted that annoying message was a problem with the Panny 4000 and it wasn't made configurable until the 5000's came out.)
> 
> Personally, I MUCH prefer that the 235 be the largest (and most immersive) image. My room is height constrained, so the wide screen made the most sense. The way it worked with the Pannys resulted in true Constant Image Height. The Lens memories were set at the AR input level. This meant that when 235 content was displayed, the image filled the entire 235 screen and when 16:9 popped up the lens AUTOMATICALLY reset to the 16:9 setting filling the top and bottom and leaving the white screen on the sides.
> 
> If anyone has figured out how to set the lens memories at AR input, or constrain images sizes to the top and bottom of the screen without having to press buttons on the remote, I'd be grateful to know how to set it.





tlogan6797 said:


> Thanks, I'll take a look at the thread.
> 
> I disagree that :. The Panasonic 4000 (PTAE4000E) does this flawlessly. I'm sire Epson could do it if they wanted to.
> 
> From the PT AE4000 user manual. Note the combination of Lens memory and AUTOSwitching based on aspect ratio works perfectly to maintain true Constant Image Height.


My experience with the 5040 and my previous Panny AE3000 exactly!


----------



## rayians

I've had my 5040 over 2 years now. I'm finally getting around to needing HDR and want to update the firmware to 1.11 but everything I try seems to fail.



Here's the procedure I'm following:
Download firmware from Epson website

Complete format of the USB as stick FAT32, copy and paste only the bin file on the drive with no folder
Insert USB into USB port of 5040UB
Ensure projector is off and unplug from power
Hold down projector power button
Plug back in projector while continuing to hold down power button
Wait until all lights turn on (blue power, and the two orange), then let go of power button
Lights all stay light for about 5 seconds 

The projector starts normally. when I check I can verify update NOT installed



I've tried a USB 3.0, USB 2.0, micro SD card in USB reader, quick format, full format. I've read many suggestions on this forum but I can't see me finding the time to read all 16,000 posts to hope there's a solution somewhere. Here's hoping someone else has had issues and figured them out!


----------



## Dirt9

Here's something to try for HDR.COLOR MODE CINEMA,AUTO BRIGHT,BT2020 HDMI NORMAL.

BRIGHTNESS 97,CONTRAST 0,COLOR SATURATION 60,TINT 100,SHARPNESS 555
COLOR TEMP 5,SKIN TONE 3,COLOR TEMP CUSTOM 49 49 49 35 50 50

POWER CONSUMPTION HIGH,AUTO IRIS NORMAL,GAMA 0 -32 -14 -14 -14 -14 -15 +22 +32
RGB (R) 32 79 50 (G )48 93 50 (B) 47 73 50 (C) 25 87 50 (M) 43 87 50 (Y) 22 83 50

IRIS 0,SUPER WHITE OFF,

This is a combo of settings that have already been posted by others,try it out


----------



## Dirt9

rayians said:


> I've had my 5040 over 2 years now. I'm finally getting around to needing HDR and want to update the firmware to 1.11 but everything I try seems to fail.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the procedure I'm following:
> Download firmware from Epson website
> 
> Complete format of the USB as stick FAT32, copy and paste only the bin file on the drive with no folder
> Insert USB into USB port of 5040UB
> Ensure projector is off and unplug from power
> Hold down projector power button
> Plug back in projector while continuing to hold down power button
> Wait until all lights turn on (blue power, and the two orange), then let go of power button
> Lights all stay light for about 5 seconds
> 
> The projector starts normally. when I check I can verify update NOT installed
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried a USB 3.0, USB 2.0, micro SD card in USB reader, quick format, full format. I've read many suggestions on this forum but I can't see me finding the time to read all 16,000 posts to hope there's a solution somewhere. Here's hoping someone else has had issues and figured them out!


I don't think the update makes hdr better,it just puts the brightest setting for hdr on top.I could be wrong.


----------



## Dirt9

I'm running a 2.35 113" AT screen.I had the projector mounted at 14' from the screen and was on the upper end of the zoom,its been a year and the picture has been looking great or so I thought!
I just moved it back to 18' and am at the lower end of the zoom now.holy cow the image is ten times better!!!
It looks brighter with way more contrast and much sharper.Just thought i would share this for those that have not mounted theirs yet.


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dirt9 said:


> I'm running a 2.35 113" AT screen.I had the projector mounted at 14' from the screen and was on the upper end of the zoom,its been a year and the picture has been looking great or so I thought!
> I just moved it back to 18' and am at the lower end of the zoom now.holy cow the image is ten times better!!!
> It looks brighter with way more contrast and much sharper.Just thought i would share this for those that have not mounted theirs yet.



No offence but some placebo is at play here. 



The further you move any projector from the screen you will lose Fl/nits because the light has further to travel.


----------



## Dave Harper

Dirt9 said:


> Here's something to try for HDR.COLOR MODE CINEMA,AUTO BRIGHT,BT2020 HDMI NORMAL.
> 
> 
> 
> *BRIGHTNESS 97,CONTRAST 0*,COLOR SATURATION 60,TINT 100,SHARPNESS 555
> 
> COLOR TEMP 5,SKIN TONE 3,COLOR TEMP CUSTOM 49 49 49 35 50 50
> 
> 
> 
> POWER CONSUMPTION HIGH,AUTO IRIS NORMAL,GAMA 0 -32 -14 -14 -14 -14 -15 +22 +32
> 
> RGB (R) 32 79 50 (G )48 93 50 (B) 47 73 50 (C) 25 87 50 (M) 43 87 50 (Y) 22 83 50
> 
> 
> 
> IRIS 0,SUPER WHITE OFF,
> 
> 
> 
> This is a combo of settings that have already been posted by others,try it out



idk but it seems like something is amiss and you’re looking for trouble with brightness at 97 and contrast at 0. Washout city!!! 



Tweakophyte said:


> The gamma settings don't call out their standard (i.e. show +1, 0, -1 vs 2.2, 2.4). Does anyone know the conversion?
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, I played around with the original and orcus mod of the HV settings last nigh and found them very dark compared to an unmodified setting. This was when feeding them the SDR/BT.2020 signal. I did not play with turning on HDR. If I am reading correctly, you are saying your settings * require * an HDR signal and may need some tweaking with the optimizer, correct? Are you also suggesting the have the player map at 1000 nits versus the projector mode of 300nits?
> 
> 
> 
> From here I want to understand that if I want to use SDR/BT.2020 I should stick to a more conventional set-up with the standard gamma? Either here or on the Panny820 thread several were saying the SDR/BT.2020 was a better way to go for a projector, since a PJ has limited light output. I forget if you opined on that.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I didn't buy this last year so your thoughts would have been fresher.  Sorry if this is a rehash of everything you've been saying. My goal is to limit the number of settings I need in various scenarios of 4K, 1080p, Netflix, Amazon coming out of the player, and a few TV modes.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



Yes, again.....you MUST input a full HDR signal (NOT SDR!!!) for my settings to resemble anything decent!

I believe when you’re in HDR/BT2020 mode and turn on the HDR Optimizer on the UB820, The display type settings aren’t activated if I recall, so this way it bases its tone mapping on a 1,000 nit display. 

If you want to use SDR BT2020 from the UB820 then DO NOT use my settings and gamma! Use a standard SDR mode like you would any other SDR source like regular Blu-ray and HD, but select the Cinema or Digital Cinema Modes on the 5040 so the BT2020/DCI-P3 Filter rolls into place to get BT2020 color mapping.


----------



## Dirt9

Dave Harper said:


> idk but it seems like something is amiss and you’re looking for trouble with brightness at 97 and contrast at 0. Washout city!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, again.....you MUST input a full HDR signal (NOT SDR!!!) for my settings to resemble anything decent!
> 
> I believe when you’re in HDR/BT2020 mode and turn on the HDR Optimizer on the UB820, The display type settings aren’t activated if I recall, so this way it bases its tone mapping on a 1,000 nit display.
> 
> If you want to use SDR BT2020 from the UB820 then DO NOT use my settings and gamma! Use a standard SDR mode like you would any other SDR source like regular Blu-ray and HD, but select the Cinema or Digital Cinema Modes on the 5040 so the BT2020/DCI-P3 Filter rolls into place to get BT2020 color mapping.


I know it sounds way off but with the second gamma point at -32 the brightness at 97 counters and really drives the whites without any wash out.setting the contrast at 0-10 bring the white detail back in,


----------



## Dirt9

AdamAttewell said:


> No offence but some placebo is at play here.
> 
> 
> 
> The further you move any projector from the screen you will lose Fl/nits because the light has further to travel.


That's what I originally thought also,if you zoom all the way in on your screen and re focus the image will not be as bright try it


----------



## Dirt9

Dirt9 said:


> That's what I originally thought also,if you zoom all the way in on your screen and re focus the image will not be as bright try it


Im a noob here but there is something to this weather it be the sweat spot of the lens or a more focust light beam?


----------



## avtoronto

Dave Harper said:


> idk but it seems like something is amiss and you’re looking for trouble with brightness at 97 and contrast at 0. Washout city!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, again.....you MUST input a full HDR signal (NOT SDR!!!) for my settings to resemble anything decent!
> 
> I believe when you’re in HDR/BT2020 mode and turn on the HDR Optimizer on the UB820, The display type settings aren’t activated if I recall, so this way it bases its tone mapping on a 1,000 nit display.
> 
> If you want to use SDR BT2020 from the UB820 then DO NOT use my settings and gamma! Use a standard SDR mode like you would any other SDR source like regular Blu-ray and HD, but select the Cinema or Digital Cinema Modes on the 5040 so the BT2020/DCI-P3 Filter rolls into place to get BT2020 color mapping.


I'll admit I am not on firm ground on this, but my understanding is if the player outputs an HDR/BT2020 signal, it always tone maps. If you select the 1,000 nit setting, that's what it will tone map to based on the information on the UHD disc. If you select SDR/BT2020, it ignores the nit setting completely and it does not tone map at all. This is why the advocates of the SDR/BT2020 approach state that only the display device does the tone mapping, so it is only being done once. 



I am perfectly willing to be corrected on this, but based on what I've read here and on the 820 thread, this is what I've learnt.


----------



## Dirt9

Dave Harper said:


> idk but it seems like something is amiss and you’re looking for trouble with brightness at 97 and contrast at 0. Washout city!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, again.....you MUST input a full HDR signal (NOT SDR!!!) for my settings to resemble anything decent!
> 
> I believe when you’re in HDR/BT2020 mode and turn on the HDR Optimizer on the UB820, The display type settings aren’t activated if I recall, so this way it bases its tone mapping on a 1,000 nit display.
> 
> If you want to use SDR BT2020 from the UB820 then DO NOT use my settings and gamma! Use a standard SDR mode like you would any other SDR source like regular Blu-ray and HD, but select the Cinema or Digital Cinema Modes on the 5040 so the BT2020/DCI-P3 Filter rolls into place to get BT2020 color mapping.


I have no experience calibrating and those settings are not,but this really does work lol


----------



## Dave Harper

Dirt9 said:


> I know it sounds way off but with the second gamma point at -32 the brightness at 97 counters and really drives the whites without any wash out.setting the contrast at 0-10 bring the white detail back in,





Dirt9 said:


> I have no experience calibrating and those settings are not,but this really does work lol


Ohhhhhhh Kaaaaayyyyyy then. If you think that’s giving an optimal picture then. I can’t see how something isn’t getting totally messed up in that scenario by flipping gamma and brightness around. That would really affect greyscale too by pushing up the cuts with a brightness that high. 

I equate this to pushing the gas to 70 mph and hitting the brake at the same to to get you back down to 55 mph, when all you had to do was hit the gas enough to go 55 mph in the first place !





avtoronto said:


> I'll admit I am not on firm ground on this, but my understanding is if the player outputs an HDR/BT2020 signal, it always tone maps. If you select the 1,000 nit setting, that's what it will tone map to based on the information on the UHD disc. If you select SDR/BT2020, it ignores the nit setting completely and it does not tone map at all. This is why the advocates of the SDR/BT2020 approach state that only the display device does the tone mapping, so it is only being done once.
> 
> I am perfectly willing to be corrected on this, but based on what I've read here and on the 820 thread, this is what I've learnt.



You could be right and I am confusing them myself. I haven’t tried the SDR/BT2020 setting for a while now. I always use HDR/BT2020 for HarperVision. 

One thing I do know though is that it is doing tone mapping from HDR to SDR when you set it to SDR/BT2020. That’s kind of the whole point of it really. Like I do with HarperVision.


----------



## avtoronto

Dave Harper said:


> One thing I do know though is that it is doing tone mapping from HDR to SDR when you set it to SDR/BT2020. That’s kind of the whole point of it really. Like I do with HarperVision.



Yes, you must be correct on this. I didn't think it through.


----------



## Dave Harper

avtoronto said:


> Yes, you must be correct on this. I didn't think it through.



Here is a good note from the Lumagen Radiance Pro manual that explains it pretty well:


----------



## Dirt9

Dirt9 said:


> Here's something to try for HDR.COLOR MODE CINEMA,AUTO BRIGHT,BT2020 HDMI NORMAL.
> 
> BRIGHTNESS 97,CONTRAST 0,COLOR SATURATION 60,TINT 100,SHARPNESS 555
> COLOR TEMP 5,SKIN TONE 3,COLOR TEMP CUSTOM 49 49 49 35 50 50
> 
> POWER CONSUMPTION HIGH,AUTO IRIS NORMAL,GAMA 0 -32 -14 -14 -14 -14 -15 +22 +32
> RGB (R) 32 79 50 (G )48 93 50 (B) 47 73 50 (C) 25 87 50 (M) 43 87 50 (Y) 22 83 50
> 
> IRIS 0,SUPER WHITE OFF,
> 
> This is a combo of settings that have already been posted by others,try it out


Just for fun,someone should try these and tell me im crazy!


----------



## Dominic Chan

avtoronto said:


> If you select SDR/BT2020, it ignores the nit setting completely and it does not tone map at all. This is why the advocates of the SDR/BT2020 approach state that only the display device does the tone mapping, so it is only being done once.


I don't have a UB820, but my understanding is the opposite. If you select SDR/BT2020, the player does all the tone mapping, and the display doesn't do any, it just applies gamma 2.2 or 2.4 to the video stream just like SDR, other than using BT2020 colour space instead of Rec709.


----------



## westbergjoakim

Can someone who have tried firmware 1.13 tell me what that update was about? I can't see it on the swedish page though.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## Tweakophyte

JumpDontThink said:


> I've read through this thread many times. Used many of the posted user settings. Experimented for 2 years with this PJ to get HDR looking good and never been truly content. But I think I've stumbled across something which looks good.
> 
> The main points
> 
> *UB820*
> Colour output: SDR/BT2020
> HDR Type: Basic Luminance LCD & Projector
> HDR Optimiser: On
> Dynamic range conversion: -6
> 
> *Epson*
> Digital Cinema Mode
> High Lamp
> Auto iris
> Super white on
> Gamma -2
> 
> Then adjust brightness and contrast settings against some patterns for your environment.
> 
> Then I just simply copied my colour settings from my SDR calibration.


This is helpful. While I don't mind experimenting with all of the shared settings (and permutations thereof) I want a very basic setting to refer to. I'm still looking for a 4K calibration disk so I can do the basics. From there I'll be able to really tweak the settings. 

Separately, I've updated my 820 and I think the HDR settings (that you get when you hit the HDR button) has changed.


----------



## rinse82

Finally got around to adding some black to my HT.

It's given my 5040ub new life! I was doing it a serious disservice until now.

https://imgur.com/gallery/N9WE70k


----------



## SCHMIDTYBOOSH

*5040UB initial Setup*

Hi All, 


I just picked up a 5040, and I need some assistance in getting the settings correct. I have attached pictures below showing my plasma and projector on at the same time. As you can see, the projector is not performing near as well, so I need to get it right.


also, the image on the projector is not near as crisp as I anticipated compared to the plasma.


I prefer dynamic, high lamp, since I mostly watch sports and TV shows, with occasional movies. I have a 4K HMDI cord, projector is 15 feet back from the white screen with 1.1gain.


If anyone can help me, it would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## roland6465

rinse82 said:


> Finally got around to adding some black to my HT.
> 
> It's given my 5040ub new life! I was doing it a serious disservice until now.
> 
> https://imgur.com/gallery/N9WE70k



Looks great! Darkening the room is probably the best bang-for-your-buck upgrade you can make for PQ. 



It was several months after we moved into our new house that we were ready to setup the theater room, and I was working weekend breakfast/lunch shifts in a kitchen, and my awesome wife surprised me by painting 3 walls gray and the front wall and ceiling near-black one weekend. Love that girl!


----------



## sddp

AdamAttewell said:


> No offence but some placebo is at play here.
> 
> 
> 
> The further you move any projector from the screen you will lose Fl/nits because the light has further to travel.


With light traveling at 186,000 miles per second and he moved it only 4' back:
1 mile is 5,280 feet
5,280 feet divided by 4 feet is 1,320 feet




If you take that 1,320 feet and calculate that a Starbucks Venti Latte now costs $5.35 (up 35 cents from just a few years ago and add the amount of feet you need to walk and stand in line at Starbucks M-F, that's $1.75 each week and that is an additional $91 a year.


I just wanted to shed some light on this matter
FYI: E=MC2


----------



## avtoronto

Tweakophyte said:


> This is helpful. While I don't mind experimenting with all of the shared settings (and permutations thereof) I want a very basic setting to refer to. I'm still looking for a 4K calibration disk so I can do the basics. From there I'll be able to really tweak the settings.
> 
> Separately, I've updated my 820 and I think the HDR settings (that you get when you hit the HDR button) has changed.


Spears & Munsil is expected to release a UHD for HDR calibration next month, per an item coming out of this year's CES.


----------



## AdamAttewell

sddp said:


> With light traveling at 186,000 miles per second and he moved it only 4' back:
> 1 mile is 5,280 feet
> 5,280 feet divided by 4 feet is 1,320 feet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you take that 1,320 feet and calculate that a Starbucks Venti Latte now costs $5.35 (up 35 cents from just a few years ago and add the amount of feet you need to walk and stand in line at Starbucks M-F, that's $1.75 each week and that is an additional $91 a year.
> 
> 
> I just wanted to shed some light on this matter
> FYI: E=MC2



Well the guys over at Projector central must have it all wrong then as if you use their calculator you get the following results:


113" 2.35 screen - 14' from the screen = 52fL


113" 2.35 screen - 18' from the screen = 45fL


7fL is 7fL under whichever light you look at it under.


----------



## pete ramberg

Pretty sure the OP is confusing light propagation time with the inverse square law of light propagation.

Light travel time is totally irrelevant here. The inverse square law would be relevant, except that the zoom lens negates the inverse square law and is what causes the drop in light intensity.

That's why it is always better to have the PJ as close to the screen with as wide of a zoom angle as possible.

This is about optics, not light propagation! 





AdamAttewell said:


> Well the guys over at Projector central must have it all wrong then as if you use their calculator you get the following results:
> 
> 
> 113" 2.35 screen - 14' from the screen = 52fL
> 
> 
> 113" 2.35 screen - 18' from the screen = 45fL
> 
> 
> 7fL is 7fL under whichever light you look at it under.


----------



## Dirt9

AdamAttewell said:


> Well the guys over at Projector central must have it all wrong then as if you use their calculator you get the following results:
> 
> 
> 113" 2.35 screen - 14' from the screen = 52fL
> 
> 
> 113" 2.35 screen - 18' from the screen = 45fL
> 
> 
> 7fL is 7fL under whichever light you look at it under.


Take a flash light like a original mag light that you can adjust the light beam and shine it at a wall.Adjust the beam as small as possible,keeping the flashlight in the same place now make the spot on the wall as large as possible,the perceived brightness is less.I would think the same principle would apply for a projectors light beam.


----------



## Dirt9

Dirt9 said:


> Take a flash light like a original mag light that you can adjust the light beam and shine it at a wall.Adjust the beam as small as possible,now make the spot on the wall as large as possible,the perceived brightness is less even though the amount of light hitting the wall would measure the same.I would think the same principle would apply for a projectors light beam.


Now take a riffle scope or a camera with zoom and zoom all the way in and take note of the image quality,while doing so you will notice the image quality is less the more you zoom because of the imperfections in the glass lens are magnified.I would think the same would apply to a projector lens while the 7fl of loss goes unnoticed.


----------



## pete ramberg

Dirt9 said:


> Now take a riffle scope or a camera with zoom and zoom all the way in and take note of the image quality,while doing so you will notice the image quality is less the more you zoom because of the imperfections in the glass lens are magnified.I would think the same would apply to a projector lens while the 7fl of loss goes unnoticed.


Gang. Light intensity is inversely proportional to the square of the distance to the screen. But, the zoom lens completely negates this because you are adjusting the zoom to compensate for the distance/size of image.

Light intensity loss is due to the optics of the zoom lens, not light speed or propagation.


----------



## pete ramberg

Dirt9 said:


> Take a flash light like a original mag light that you can adjust the light beam and shine it at a wall.Adjust the beam as small as possible,keeping the flashlight in the same place now make the spot on the wall as large as possible,the perceived brightness is less.I would think the same principle would apply for a projectors light beam.


This is an example of the inverse square law of light intensity. But, it assumes that the light is not altered by a variable focal length lens.

If the projector has a fixed focal length lens, then moving the projector would invoke the inverse square law (like your flashlight example). A zoom lens negates it.


----------



## AdamAttewell

pete ramberg said:


> This is an example of the inverse square law of light intensity. But, it assumes that the light is not altered by a variable focal length lens.
> 
> If the projector has a fixed focal length lens, then moving the projector would invoke the inverse square law (like your flashlight example). A zoom lens negates it.



Thanks Peter for all the info, I know I got it wrong about the speed of light but I am right in saying that moving the projector further from the screen will reduce the brightness of the image?


----------



## Dirt9

AdamAttewell said:


> Thanks Peter for all the info, I know I got it wrong about the speed of light but I am right in saying that moving the projector further from the screen will reduce the brightness of the image?


I agree that moving the projector back has less light output,what I was originally trying to say for me in my particular scenario is using the sweet spot of the lens has made the image have more contrast and a crisper picture while the 7fl loss goes unnoticed


----------



## pete ramberg

Exactly. If you move the PJ back twice as far, then the light intensity is reduced by a factor of 4 (2 squared). But, a zoom lens would of course be used to re-size the image and make it the same size as before the move. 

In any case, the more the zoom feature is used to re-size the image, the more light is lost.

Rule of thumb: place the PJ as close as you can to the screen and use as wide of a zoom as possible.


AdamAttewell said:


> Thanks Peter for all the info, I know I got it wrong about the speed of light but I am right in saying that moving the projector further from the screen will reduce the brightness of the image?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> Here is a good note from the Lumagen Radiance Pro manual that explains it pretty well:




I love that explanation, I have been trying to find an eloquent way to explain this concept of an SDR container for an HDR signal. Thank you 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## monkaquinas

Dave Harper said:


> Yes they’re for a full HDR signal being sent into the display. The reason you set the display to SDR in this case is to be able to manually tone map the signal to be brighter and more conducive to a lower nit display such as your typical Home Theater projector. This is pretty much what players like the Panasonic 820 (and Lumagen and MadVR) are now doing in the source device. It’s just a matter of where it’s done really.
> 
> For my BenQ LK970 I prefer it done at the projector, mainly because I have the control over what kind of look I want, and then the 820’s Optimizer maps it to the 1,000 or so nits I calibrated and “HarperVisioned” it to.
> 
> This Note from the Lumagen Radiance Pro manual sums it up nicely:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have found that sending full HDR with the HDR Optimizer engaged on the UB820 into a BenQ LK970 with HarperVision mods to be the best solution and image by far over using SDR/BT2020 from the 820 into the LK970 in SDR mode with a 2.4 gamma.
> 
> As I said, I encourage all to try both though as I haven’t done this experiment on a 5040 to see which is better with this model.
> 
> To answer your other question, I thought you could get SDR/BT2020 with a 2.4 gamma by just selecting Digital Cinema mode which engages the P3 color filter, then you manually go into SDR mode and select 2.4 as the gamma? I swear that’s all I had to do when I had a 5040 here last time, but it’s been quite a while and my memory could be off.


I just setup Harpervision thanks to the pointer to using Oledurt CMS settings and all I have to say is what a revelation. I've only been in the 4K camp for about 7-9 months since I added the UB820 as my 4K source. I set the 820 to HDR out and SDR out and the HDR signal was dim and the colors dull, "washed out" as has been said before by others. I then reverted to SDR and the image was bright and the colors vibrant, everything popped. It did seem a little too red at Color Sat of 80 and dropped it to 75 and it looked right to my eyes. I do have the 820 set to Projector with the Optimizer off and the Dynamic slider at +10. I'd like to thank everyone here for their advice and thoughts and willingness to share with others. I'll try to post some pics, I spun Infinity War and then the new 4k Superman: The Movie since it's a movie I'm very familiar with. Going to see what this does with MI: Fallout, any other badly encoded movies I should spin?


----------



## avtoronto

monkaquinas said:


> I just setup Harpervision thanks to the pointer to using Oledurt CMS settings and all I have to say is what a revelation. I've only been in the 4K camp for about 7-9 months since I added the UB820 as my 4K source. I set the 820 to HDR out and SDR out and the HDR signal was dim and the colors dull, "washed out" as has been said before by others. I then reverted to SDR and the image was bright and the colors vibrant, everything popped. It did seem a little too red at Color Sat of 80 and dropped it to 75 and it looked right to my eyes. I do have the 820 set to Projector with the Optimizer off and the Dynamic slider at +10. I'd like to thank everyone here for their advice and thoughts and willingness to share with others. I'll try to post some pics, I spun Infinity War and then the new 4k Superman: The Movie since it's a movie I'm very familiar with. Going to see what this does with MI: Fallout, any other badly encoded movies I should spin?


I'm a little confused by your post. You ended up setting the 820 to SDR/BT2020 or HDR/BT2020? To run Harpervision, you should be outputting HDR/BT2020 from the player and the projector's dynamic range should be set to SDR.



By setting the optimizer off in the player, it rather begs the question to me of why purchase this player in the first place. It is one of its key features.


----------



## jmeitz

So after trying to read 100 of pages of settings. What is the optimized settings for the 5040 with panny 820 for a dedicated room with white screen.


----------



## john hunter

Dirt9 said:


> Try pulling the second gamma point to -30,the third to -26,seven up -14,brightness to 68 and color to 90,working these along with contrast can get you more pop.I think orcus originally was suggesting this tweak.


Thanks for that Dirt9.
Interesting and would recommend others to try but not for me.
PQ was a bit too grainy for my liking and black level unstable.


Have found some more oledurt amendments/ suggestions for Dave's HarperVision:
Brightness 53 Col 73
Col Temp 4 Skin 3
Offset R 48 G 48 B 50 Gain R 48 G 61 B 34.
All the other settings as set out previously.
Looks good so far.


----------



## Iceman24

I know there has been a lot of discussion on this subject, but I can't find the answer I am looking for, so I wanted to pose my question directly.

I have the 5040UB. I have a NVIDIA SHIELD TV. I have 4K content with HDR in 24Hz, which all the hardware can do and has just fine.

My issue is that when I want to watch anything 4K, I have to adjust the SHIELD's output settings away from recommended which is 1080p 59-60Hz HDR. I like to keep it at that because otherwise the menu animations are not smooth, because the max output I can have at 4K is 4K 30Hz HDR. Being content is 24Hz, that suffices, but I don't like having to switch back and forth, but I do because the animations not being smooth is annoying.

Is there anything thing I can get or do that makes this process easier. I know PJ doesn't do the trifecta all at once, but I don't have any 60Hz content at 4K HDR, so I'm never asking more than it can provide at any point. The menu isn't in HDR. I've been the HDFury Linker, but can't tell if that would help me or not. Thanks.


----------



## terminal33

rinse82 said:


> Finally got around to adding some black to my HT.
> 
> It's given my 5040ub new life! I was doing it a serious disservice until now.
> 
> https://imgur.com/gallery/N9WE70k


Nice! Your pics have inspired me to wanna paint my ceiling black as well. I got the wifey's approval, I think.  I'm thinking about a flat black color. What exact color/brand did you go with?


----------



## Dave Harper

Tweakophyte said:


> This is helpful. While I don't mind experimenting with all of the shared settings (and permutations thereof) I want a very basic setting to refer to. I'm still looking for a 4K calibration disk so I can do the basics. From there I'll be able to really tweak the settings.
> 
> 
> 
> Separately, I've updated my 820 and I think the HDR settings (that you get when you hit the HDR button) has changed.





avtoronto said:


> Spears & Munsil is expected to release a UHD for HDR calibration next month, per an item coming out of this year's CES.



The Ryan Masciola UHD HDR Test Pattern suite is also available on UHD Blu-ray. You can get it here:

https://www.diversifiedvideosolutions.com/dvs_products.html

You can also do a download and put it on a flash drive and play it on your Blu-ray player or Media device. I prefer this method because you get free updates you can download and reinstall. 

I look forward to the Spears & Munsil Disc too!


----------



## rinse82

terminal33 said:


> Nice! Your pics have inspired me to wanna paint my ceiling black as well. I got the wifey's approval, I think.  I'm thinking about a flat black color. What exact color/brand did you go with?


Sherwin Williams, Flat Back in their Emerald line

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/emerald-interior-acrylic-latex-paint


----------



## Max Velimir Sidorov

Hey guys, jumping on the failure train, this is the second 5040Ube that is failed on me... im overseas, no way to send it back now. Does anyone know the part numbers for the replacement power module? Is it possible to buy a replacement part and have a local repair shop fix it?


----------



## westbergjoakim

Iceman24 said:


> I know there has been a lot of discussion on this subject, but I can't find the answer I am looking for, so I wanted to pose my question directly.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the 5040UB. I have a NVIDIA SHIELD TV. I have 4K content with HDR in 24Hz, which all the hardware can do and has just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> My issue is that when I want to watch anything 4K, I have to adjust the SHIELD's output settings away from recommended which is 1080p 59-60Hz HDR. I like to keep it at that because otherwise the menu animations are not smooth, because the max output I can have at 4K is 4K 30Hz HDR. Being content is 24Hz, that suffices, but I don't like having to switch back and forth, but I do because the animations not being smooth is annoying.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there anything thing I can get or do that makes this process easier. I know PJ doesn't do the trifecta all at once, but I don't have any 60Hz content at 4K HDR, so I'm never asking more than it can provide at any point. The menu isn't in HDR. I've been the HDFury Linker, but can't tell if that would help me or not. Thanks.


Though that you was asking about Netflix first.

Why don't you change it to output 4k/23.97hz? If you are using Kodi/Plex, they auto change the refreshrate to the content. Otherwise I change the refreshrate to what content I'm watching.


----------



## Tweakophyte

avtoronto said:


> I'm a little confused by your post. You ended up setting the 820 to SDR/BT2020 or HDR/BT2020? To run Harpervision, you should be outputting HDR/BT2020 from the player *and the projector's dynamic range should be set to SDR*.
> 
> 
> 
> By setting the optimizer off in the player, it rather begs the question to me of why purchase this player in the first place. It is one of its key features.


I thought you kept the dynamic range as auto... where is this setting so I can confirm I did it right. I'm still trying to be "wowed" but some of the listed HDR settings and the panny820 and I'm not quite there. I know I have some basic calibration work to do, so I'm not disappointed, but also want to make sure I'm not missing a step.

Thx


----------



## tlogan6797

Anyone have an issue turning off the projector with the remote?

I was programming my URC 980 to replace the old Panny 4000 with the Epson 5040 and it would turn on but not off, and yes I programmed it to send 2 ("enter" EDIT - OFF, then "enter" to confirm shutdown) commands with a slight delay, which is how the Panny worked. I used the IR code from the URC database and when that didn't work, I used the learning mode from the remote and THAT didn't work. Then I realized that even the original remote does not turn it off. As far as I can tell, that is the only thing that the original remote doesn't do. I pretty much only need the URC to turn it on and off at this point (although, I guess I'll have to program the Lens Mem buttons since there is no auto-switching).


----------



## Iceman24

westbergjoakim said:


> Though that you was asking about Netflix first.
> 
> Why don't you change it to output 4k/23.97hz? If you are using Kodi/Plex, they auto change the refreshrate to the content. Otherwise I change the refreshrate to what content I'm watching.


I could change to that, but that would make the navigating the menu even more sluggish. There is no issue with getting the content to auto switch the refresh rate. It's having to deal with no 4K for smooth menus, so I have to keep changing to 4K just to watch 4K content and then back for smooth navigation.


----------



## jmeitz

Is anyone able to stream Netflix or YouTube in 4K from the Panasonic ub820. No issues with Xbox.


----------



## Dirt9

Revised settings for hdr,no switching from 709 to bt 2020 or sdr to to hdr needed and the picture look very close to harpervision/oledurt with more hdr color affects,no affense to anyone

CINEMA/AUTO/AUTO BRIGHT/AUTO/FINE

BRIGHTNESS 95,CONTRAST 0,COLOR TO 50-80,TINT 50,SKIN TONE AND COLOR TEMP AS NEEDED.
POWER CONSUMPSION HIGH,AUTO IRIS NORMAL.DETAIL PRE SET 3,DETAIL ENHANCEMENT TO TASTE.

GAMA 0 -31 -25 -21 -23 -21 -19 -9 +32,RGBY (R) 50 23 50 (G) 78 8 50 (B) 68 30 50 (C) 56 31 50 (M) 76 31 50 (Y) 44 29 50

SUPER WHITE OFF,IRIS SET TO TASTE

Try these out and compare back and forth to harpervision/oledurt
Im using a Philips bdp 5502 set to 4k sending hdr signal with a silver ticket white WAB screen in a blacked out room.
Turning super white off makes the picture more bright at the expense of fine detail in clouds and light colored backgrounds,pause on a scene and you'll see what I mean.


----------



## Dirt9

Dirt9 said:


> Revised settings for hdr,no switching from 709 to bt 2020 or sdr to to hdr needed and the picture look very close to harpervision/oledurt with more hdr color affects,no affense to anyone
> 
> CINEMA/AUTO/AUTO BRIGHT/AUTO/FINE
> 
> BRIGHTNESS 95,CONTRAST 0,COLOR TO 50-80,TINT 50,SKIN TONE AND COLOR TEMP AS NEEDED.
> POWER CONSUMPSION HIGH,AUTO IRIS NORMAL.DETAIL PRE SET 3,DETAIL ENHANCEMENT TO TASTE.
> 
> GAMA 0 -31 -25 -21 -23 -21 -19 -9 +32,RGBY (R) 50 23 50 (G) 78 8 50 (B) 68 30 50 (C) 56 31 50 (M) 76 31 50 (Y) 44 29 50
> 
> SUPER WHITE OFF,IRIS SET TO TASTE
> 
> Try these out and compare back and forth to harpervision/oledurt
> Im using a Philips bdp 5502 set to 4k sending hdr signal with a silver ticket white WAB screen in a blacked out room.
> Turning super white off makes the picture more bright at the expense of fine detail in clouds and light colored backgrounds,pause on a scene and you'll see what I mean.


I think you could get away with med lamp mode for less noise at the expense of less pop and vividness,im spoiled on high lamp mode unfortunately.


----------



## Dave Harper

Tweakophyte said:


> *I thought you kept the dynamic range as auto... *where is this setting so I can confirm I did it right. I'm still trying to be "wowed" but some of the listed HDR settings and the panny820 and I'm not quite there. I know I have some basic calibration work to do, so I'm not disappointed, but also want to make sure I'm not missing a step.
> 
> 
> 
> Thx



No, if you leave it on AUTO then it will go into it’s built in HDR mode when you feed it the HDR signal. For HarperVision you need to send full HDR, but then run the display in its SDR Mode so the HDR PQ can be mapped into the SDR Container! Again, Explained here:













Dirt9 said:


> Revised settings for hdr,no switching from 709 to bt 2020 or sdr to to hdr needed and the picture look very close to harpervision/oledurt with more hdr color affects,no affense to anyone
> 
> 
> 
> CINEMA/AUTO/AUTO BRIGHT/AUTO/FINE
> 
> 
> 
> BRIGHTNESS 95,CONTRAST 0,COLOR TO 50-80,TINT 50,SKIN TONE AND COLOR TEMP AS NEEDED.
> 
> POWER CONSUMPSION HIGH,AUTO IRIS NORMAL.DETAIL PRE SET 3,DETAIL ENHANCEMENT TO TASTE.
> 
> 
> 
> GAMA 0 -31 -25 -21 -23 -21 -19 -9 +32,RGBY (R) 50 23 50 (G) 78 8 50 (B) 68 30 50 (C) 56 31 50 (M) 76 31 50 (Y) 44 29 50
> 
> 
> 
> SUPER WHITE OFF,IRIS SET TO TASTE
> 
> 
> 
> Try these out and compare back and forth to harpervision/oledurt
> 
> Im using a Philips bdp 5502 set to 4k sending hdr signal with a silver ticket white WAB screen in a blacked out room.
> 
> Turning super white off makes the picture more bright at the expense of fine detail in clouds and light colored backgrounds,pause on a scene and you'll see what I mean.



I still can’t wrap my head around brightness being so darned high at 95!  but OK. 

Can someone else that’s run mine and others and has a lot of experience try these settings and confirm things are OK? I haven’t had a 5040 here in forever.


----------



## jmeitz

Here is an odd one that I hope you can help out on. When I use hdmi 1 I have very little contrast. I have to set my projector brightness to 30 vs 52 and my contrast to 0 vs 68 when using hdmi 2. Do I have a bad port. When I do my Wow calibration on hdmi one the contrast screen is completely white unless I do C=O and B=30.


----------



## Dirt9

jmeitz said:


> Here is an odd one that I hope you can help out on. When I use hdmi 1 I have very little contrast. I have to set my projector brightness to 30 vs 52 and my contrast to 0 vs 68 when using hdmi 2. Do I have a bad port. When I do my Wow calibration on hdmi one the contrast screen is completely white unless I do C=O and B=30.


Check to make sure you have the hdmi video range set to to normal,having it on expanded can wash your picture out unless you adjust for it.what are your exact settings while using HDMI 1 including screen type and room conditions?


----------



## jmeitz

Dirt9 said:


> jmeitz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an odd one that I hope you can help out on. When I use hdmi 1 I have very little contrast. I have to set my projector brightness to 30 vs 52 and my contrast to 0 vs 68 when using hdmi 2. Do I have a bad port. When I do my Wow calibration on hdmi one the contrast screen is completely white unless I do C=O and B=30.
> 
> 
> 
> Check to make sure you have the hdmi video range set to to normal,having it on expanded can wash your picture out unless you adjust for it.what are your exact settings while using HDMI 1 including screen type and room conditions?
Click to expand...

Exactly what it was. Signal was set to hdr1. Thanks for the help, appreciate it.


----------



## carp

Dave Harper said:


> Can someone else that’s run mine and others and has a lot of experience try these settings and confirm things are OK? I haven’t had a 5040 here in forever.



I just tried it. It's way too washed out for me. In fairness though, I might have jacked up eyes because after trying all kinds of settings (including getting a professional calibration) I always come back to the default "bright cinema" settings along with the dynamic range slider on the Panasonic 900 to taste and it looks better to my eyes than anything else. I also have a very large screen, so that comes into play too. If I have to choose between a bit too dim/darker blacks vs. brighter/a bit washed out out I'll take the latter every time.


----------



## gene4ht

carp said:


> I just tried it. It's way too washed out for me. In fairness though,* I might have jacked up eyes because after trying all kinds of settings (including getting a professional calibration) I always come back to the default "bright cinema" settings along with the dynamic range slider on the Panasonic 900 to taste and it looks better to my eyes than anything else.* I also have a very large screen, so that comes into play too. If I have to choose between a bit too dim/darker blacks vs. brighter/a bit washed out out I'll take the latter every time.


Well...that makes two of us then...like the universal truth goes...audio and video are very subjective and personal.


----------



## Dirt9

That's crazy its slightly darker than harpervision/oledurf on my end lol,do you guys have the second gama point at -31? CINEMA/AUTO/AUTO BRIGHT/AUTO/FINE



BRIGHTNESS 95,CONTRAST 0,COLOR TO 50-80,TINT 50,SKIN TONE AND COLOR TEMP AS NEEDED.

POWER CONSUMPSION HIGH,AUTO IRIS NORMAL.DETAIL PRE SET 3,DETAIL ENHANCEMENT TO TASTE.



GAMA 0 -31 -25 -21 -23 -21 -19 -9 +32,RGBY (R) 50 23 50 (G) 78 8 50 (B) 68 30 50 (C) 56 31 50 (M) 76 31 50 (Y) 44 29 50



SUPER WHITE OFF,IRIS SET TO TASTE


----------



## Dirt9

I don't think it's possible to wash the screen out with the second gama point at -31


----------



## carp

Dirt9 said:


> That's crazy its slightly darker than harpervision/oledurf on my end lol,do you guys have the second gama point at -31? CINEMA/AUTO/AUTO BRIGHT/AUTO/FINE
> 
> 
> 
> BRIGHTNESS 95,CONTRAST 0,COLOR TO 50-80,TINT 50,SKIN TONE AND COLOR TEMP AS NEEDED.
> 
> POWER CONSUMPSION HIGH,AUTO IRIS NORMAL.DETAIL PRE SET 3,DETAIL ENHANCEMENT TO TASTE.
> 
> 
> 
> GAMA 0 -31 -25 -21 -23 -21 -19 -9 +32,RGBY (R) 50 23 50 (G) 78 8 50 (B) 68 30 50 (C) 56 31 50 (M) 76 31 50 (Y) 44 29 50
> 
> 
> 
> SUPER WHITE OFF,IRIS SET TO TASTE



Just double checked, yes it's set to -31. It could be something else I'm missing though. What does color 50-80 mean, adjust to taste?


----------



## Dirt9

MAYBE MY EYES ARE REALLY MESSED UP honestly I could take the brightness up to 100 and still not wash out the black level but start to lose white detail.


----------



## carp

Dirt9 said:


> MAYBE MY EYES ARE REALLY MESSED UP honestly I could take the brightness up to 100 and still not wash out the black level but start to lose white detail.


When you go to the info tab on the menu it says HDR 2020 and all that good stuff?


----------



## HearingImpaired

I want one of these!


----------



## Dirt9

carp said:


> Just double checked, yes it's set to -31. It could be something else I'm missing though. What does color 50-80 mean, adjust to taste?


color level 60 is where I like it,adjust to taste was probably the wrong word choice.should have put adjust to preference

I have hdmi range set to auto along with verything else,I wonder if theres a big difference in the disc players,are you guys using any processing or signal strippping in the signal?


----------



## Dirt9

carp said:


> When you go to the info tab on the menu it says HDR 2020 and all that good stuff?


Yeah 422 12 bit, hdr bt 2020


----------



## Dirt9

crapy pic photo bomb


----------



## Dirt9

I hope this works for someone, its nice being able to pop any disk in and not have to change anything with everything being on auto.blade runner 2024 has bad azzz sound affects


----------



## Dirt9

few more sorry


----------



## MattTN

Dirt9 said:


> I hope this works for someone, its nice being able to pop any disk in and not have to change anything with everything being on auto.blade runner 2024 has bad azzz sound affects


Thanks Dirt. I just had a replacement sent from Epson a couple days ago and used your settings.


----------



## MattTN

Oh wow you guys are awesome. There are a ton of setting resources here. 😳😳😳

Any setting recommendations for noobs like me? Apple TV 4, Xbox One X, Anthem 1120.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dave Harper said:


> No, if you leave it on AUTO then it will go into it’s built in HDR mode when you feed it the HDR signal. For HarperVision you need to send full HDR, but then run the display in its SDR Mode so the HDR PQ can be mapped into the SDR Container! Again, Explained here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still can’t wrap my head around brightness being so darned high at 95!  but OK.
> 
> Can someone else that’s run mine and others and has a lot of experience try these settings and confirm things are OK? I haven’t had a 5040 here in forever.



Not having your specific cms and temp settings significantly impacts your settings. More then any other HDR signal accepting display I have worked with (granted that’s only about 10 displays) HDR-SDR gamma mapping is significantly altered by very slight changes to these cms and temp settings. If I compare your settings without these values to my own HDR calibration your settings have no contrast whatsoever with elevated black levels and blown out whites. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tweakophyte

Dave Harper said:


> No, if you leave it on AUTO then it will go into it’s built in HDR mode when you feed it the HDR signal. For HarperVision you need to send full HDR, but then run the display in its SDR Mode so the HDR PQ can be mapped into the SDR Container! Again, Explained here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That helped... helped with Netflix as well.


----------



## Dirt9

MattTN said:


> Thanks Dirt. I just had a replacement sent from Epson a couple days ago and used your settings.


I would recommend starting at page 556 and using settings the experienced members are posting up,the settings I posted up only seem to work for me.highly recommended that you start there for a solid base line


----------



## MattTN

Dirt9 said:


> I would recommend starting at page 556 and using settings the experienced members are posting up,the settings I posted up only seem to work for me.highly recommended that you start there for a solid base line


Thanks man. I appreciate you taking the time to post that. I know random posts like mine can be intrusive to the conversation.


----------



## Dirt9

carp said:


> I just tried it. It's way too washed out for me. In fairness though, I might have jacked up eyes because after trying all kinds of settings (including getting a professional calibration) I always come back to the default "bright cinema" settings along with the dynamic range slider on the Panasonic 900 to taste and it looks better to my eyes than anything else. I also have a very large screen, so that comes into play too. If I have to choose between a bit too dim/darker blacks vs. brighter/a bit washed out out I'll take the latter every time.


if you guys are up for it would you be willing to post a few pictures with your settings side by side with mine?Im wondering if my projector has a issue now  4k hdr in auto bright mode


----------



## MattTN

Dirt here you go. I did another preset with Harpervision and gotta say that really popped compared to your posted preset. A lot of stuff came out washed. 

Whatever is highlighted is the setting. Be kind, I'm new at this and know these pictures stink.


----------



## MattTN

Take #2 .


----------



## MattTN

Hopefully bigger. 🙄


----------



## Dirt9

MattTN said:


> Hopefully bigger. 🙄


Hmm I don't know what's going on but here's what I get with same exact settings as MattTN's

Harpervision/oleduf on the left picture,my settings and custom gamma curve with brightness at 100 POSTED AT THE TOP OF THIS PAGE on the right picture.

The only reason I keep bringing this back up is because it solves the constant input switching from SDR to 4K HDR when you change discs.


----------



## Lithium

monkaquinas said:


> I just setup Harpervision thanks to the pointer to using Oledurt CMS settings and all I have to say is what a revelation. I've only been in the 4K camp for about 7-9 months since I added the UB820 as my 4K source. I set the 820 to HDR out and SDR out and the HDR signal was dim and the colors dull, "washed out" as has been said before by others. I then reverted to SDR and the image was bright and the colors vibrant, everything popped. It did seem a little too red at Color Sat of 80 and dropped it to 75 and it looked right to my eyes. I do have the 820 set to Projector with the Optimizer off and the Dynamic slider at +10. I'd like to thank everyone here for their advice and thoughts and willingness to share with others. I'll try to post some pics, I spun Infinity War and then the new 4k Superman: The Movie since it's a movie I'm very familiar with. Going to see what this does with MI: Fallout, any other badly encoded movies I should spin?


Ideally what you want is:

Panny 820: HDR/2020 OUT, Optimizer ON, Display Type: Middle Luminance, That Dynamic Slider Thing 2-3 clicks max to preference.
Epson 5040: Forced SDR Mode IN, HarperVision w/ Oledurt.

You might be getting a 'dim look' because you are clipping/maxing out content to 500 nits with the display type set to projector. You want middle luminance so that the clipping/maxing out is at 1000 nits which HarperVision is calibrated for.


----------



## john hunter

Am playing with oledurt's additional settings as per my post 16864 and which I have dubbed "Ultra HarperVision".
It tightens the red especially but the whites seem a bit blown out.
Will keep trying.


----------



## OrcusVaruna

Dirt9 said:


> Hmm I don't know what's going on but here's what I get with same exact settings as MattTN's
> 
> 
> 
> Harpervision/oleduf on the left picture,my settings and custom gamma curve with brightness at 100 POSTED AT THE TOP OF THIS PAGE on the right picture.
> 
> 
> 
> The only reason I keep bringing this back up is because it solves the constant input switching from SDR to 4K HDR when you change discs.



Here’s the same scene using my own settings white balance corrected in Lightroom as close as I could get it to give you an idea of what a calibrated image using this projector should look like. Obviously it’s not perfect and the image has more punch in real life but this is a decent approximation.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dirt9

Looking awesome orcus.really good


----------



## MattTN

OrcusVaruna said:


> Here’s the same scene using my own settings white balance corrected in Lightroom as close as I could get it to give you an idea of what a calibrated image using this projector should look like. Obviously it’s not perfect and the image has more punch in real life but this is a decent approximation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Wow that looks great! Do you have your settings easily accessible to post?


----------



## OrcusVaruna

MattTN said:


> Wow that looks great! Do you have your settings easily accessible to post?



They’re the Orcus Digital Cinema settings on the left of the chart below. 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jjwinterberg

Dirt9 said:


> Hmm I don't know what's going on but here's what I get with same exact settings as MattTN's
> 
> Harpervision/oleduf on the left picture,my settings and custom gamma curve with brightness at 100 POSTED AT THE TOP OF THIS PAGE on the right picture.
> 
> The only reason I keep bringing this back up is because it solves the constant input switching from SDR to 4K HDR when you change discs.


Are you using the Harpervision with Oledurt's suggestions on CMY values? If so I recommend you try the straight Harpervision with the RGBCMY values set to 50. I found that the Oledurt mods to Harpervision wash out the colors. For me the straight Harpervision provides the optimum HDR image prior to an installation unique calibration. YMMV


----------



## Dirt9

I think harpervision look great with some tweaks.what I'm trying to do is get the same level of brightness without having to force SDR.I'm experimenting.ive tried the orcus settings but on my WAB woven screen the picture lacks brightness and pop.no offence to orcus,his posted pictures are fantastic,now I'm using oledurt cms with my own gamma curve to get to where I am now, its a work in progress but looks fantastic on my screen.


----------



## jmeitz

Lithium said:


> monkaquinas said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just setup Harpervision thanks to the pointer to using Oledurt CMS settings and all I have to say is what a revelation. I've only been in the 4K camp for about 7-9 months since I added the UB820 as my 4K source. I set the 820 to HDR out and SDR out and the HDR signal was dim and the colors dull, "washed out" as has been said before by others. I then reverted to SDR and the image was bright and the colors vibrant, everything popped. It did seem a little too red at Color Sat of 80 and dropped it to 75 and it looked right to my eyes. I do have the 820 set to Projector with the Optimizer off and the Dynamic slider at +10. I'd like to thank everyone here for their advice and thoughts and willingness to share with others. I'll try to post some pics, I spun Infinity War and then the new 4k Superman: The Movie since it's a movie I'm very familiar with. Going to see what this does with MI: Fallout, any other badly encoded movies I should spin?
> 
> 
> 
> Ideally what you want is:
> 
> Panny 820: HDR/2020 OUT, Optimizer ON, Display Type: Middle Luminance, That Dynamic Slider Thing 2-3 clicks max to preference.
> Epson 5040: Forced SDR Mode IN, HarperVision w/ Oledurt.
> 
> You might be getting a 'dim look' because you are clipping/maxing out content to 500 nits with the display type set to projector. You want middle luminance so that the clipping/maxing out is at 1000 nits which HarperVision is calibrated for.
Click to expand...

Do you set your 4k60 output to off or 4:2:0? Issue I am having is I am getting some clipping on my screen. Just trying to find the idea settings for my 820 and 5040.


----------



## mcallister

OrcusVaruna said:


> They’re the Orcus Digital Cinema settings on the left of the chart below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


On the strength/range setting it says “preset 3” 

I don’t see a preset on my 5040? It’s a slider for each with setting starting at 25


----------



## MagnumMafia05

mcallister said:


> On the strength/range setting it says “preset 3”
> 
> I don’t see a preset on my 5040? It’s a slider for each with setting starting at 25


It's the actual preset you use for IE. When you change your IE it changes those settings to the preset you use. So all you do. Is use the preset 3 for image enhance and dont mess with those settings that says preset 3.


----------



## MattTN

Question for Apple TV 4 users. 

What video settings do you use with your projector? I know we can get 4k HDR @ 30hz or 4k SDR @ 60hz. Is the higher refresh rate worth the trade off?


----------



## Savatage316

Couple quick bulb questions, so I just got the message stating I need to replace my bulb. I'm at 3400 hours, but honestly the picture still looks amazing so I'm guessing it's just something to plan for eventually. But anything I should know for when I do change the bulb? I actually never did that before.

How many hours have some of you gotten before having to change the bulb? Also, any good online stores to buy quality bulbs a little cheaper?


----------



## rick a

Hi all. I have a question. I am building a PC. I was leaning towards an RTX 2080 TI for my GPU but would this be pointless for use with this projector? As I understand, 60 fps is the most this projector will put out. Would the GTX 1080 TI be a better option? I don’t really want to throw money away on the highest spec GPU if I won’t see any benefit out of it. I plan on keeping my 5040ube for several years. Thanks in advance!


----------



## pete ramberg

*Pixel structure with 4k enhancement "on"*

I was one of the first to get the 5040UB when it came out 3 years ago. I didn't notice much (maybe a little) change in the pixel structure with and without 4k enhancement - both looked pretty close to each other. I never thought anything about it.

Fast forward to last month. I helped a friend install his brand-new 5040UB and immediately noticed that the pixel structure with 4k enhancement "on" was virtually invisible - almost perfectly solid and seamless.

I never gave it much thought, as I had nothing to compare my 5040UB to - in fact, I went back and looked at an early review of the unit, and photos showing the before-and-after 4k enhancement pixel structure looked just like mine - less structure, but clearly visible.


So, my question is: did the 5040UB get an upgrade to its pixel shifting hardware or software in the 3 years since it came out? BTW, I did do the version 1.09 software upgrade.

Thanks if anybody has an idea.

P Ramberg


----------



## monkaquinas

Lithium said:


> Ideally what you want is:
> 
> Panny 820: HDR/2020 OUT, Optimizer ON, Display Type: Middle Luminance, That Dynamic Slider Thing 2-3 clicks max to preference.
> Epson 5040: Forced SDR Mode IN, HarperVision w/ Oledurt.
> 
> You might be getting a 'dim look' because you are clipping/maxing out content to 500 nits with the display type set to projector. You want middle luminance so that the clipping/maxing out is at 1000 nits which HarperVision is calibrated for.


I knew I missed something. Setting it to Projector put me at 350 nits. I have changed the settings and it looks very good, not great. I'm going to check the settings for Harpervision and make sure that I have everything correct, my bulb has about 800 hours.


----------



## tlogan6797

tlogan6797 said:


> Anyone have an issue turning off the projector with the remote?
> 
> I was programming my URC 980 to replace the old Panny 4000 with the Epson 5040 and it would turn on but not off, and yes I programmed it to send 2 ("enter" EDIT - OFF, then "enter" to confirm shutdown) commands with a slight delay, which is how the Panny worked. I used the IR code from the URC database and when that didn't work, I used the learning mode from the remote and THAT didn't work. Then I realized that even the original remote does not turn it off. As far as I can tell, that is the only thing that the original remote doesn't do. I pretty much only need the URC to turn it on and off at this point (although, I guess I'll have to program the Lens Mem buttons since there is no auto-switching).


I just wanted to update what I found, although again, I guess everyone already knew this but me.

To turn off with the remote you have to hit the Stand By button EVEN THOUGH THE DOCUMENTATION SAYS TO PRESS THE POWER OR STANDBY BUTTON . The remote power button does nothing when trying to shutdown. UNLESS you've hit the hard power button on the unit then you can use the remote for the confirmation to turn it off.


----------



## --Sclaws

rick a said:


> Hi all. I have a question. I am building a PC. I was leaning towards an RTX 2080 TI for my GPU but would this be pointless for use with this projector? As I understand, 60 fps is the most this projector will put out. Would the GTX 1080 TI be a better option? I don’t really want to throw money away on the highest spec GPU if I won’t see any benefit out of it. I plan on keeping my 5040ube for several years. Thanks in advance!


I use a Zotac miniPC for my HTPC which has a 1060 and I've had zero issues with Win10/Kodi playing blu ray iso's on the 5040, but I don't game with the system. It can play 4K fine so far, but Win10 is more headache than its worth to get HDR right so I haven't bothered with that.


----------



## Lithium

monkaquinas said:


> I knew I missed something. Setting it to Projector put me at 350 nits. I have changed the settings and it looks very good, not great. I'm going to check the settings for Harpervision and make sure that I have everything correct, my bulb has about 800 hours.


Is the bulb on high mode and the auto iris is on without any limitation (make sure you don't have an iris value set)?

My bulb has similar hours, fully blackened dedicated HT room with 150" screen and the image is very bright and vibrant.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Savatage316

Anyone able to comment on general bulb info? How many hours did some of you get before needing to switch out the bulb?


----------



## Dirt9

Savatage316 said:


> Anyone able to comment on general bulb info? How many hours did some of you get before needing to switch out the bulb?


I definitely wouldn't wait for it to burn out,that could end up damaging other stuff also.
Just replace it now if it has allot of hours on it and save your old one for a back up.


----------



## Dirt9

Dirt9 said:


> I definitely wouldn't wait for it to burn out,that could end up damaging other stuff also.
> Just replace it now if it has allot of hours on it and save your old one for a back up.


I plan on replacing my bulb at 1000 hours and saving it for a back up,the bulbs are cheap.


----------



## Savatage316

Dirt9 said:


> I definitely wouldn't wait for it to burn out,that could end up damaging other stuff also.
> Just replace it now if it has allot of hours on it and save your old one for a back up.



Yea I can definitely do that.. Where do most shop for bulbs, anywhere in particular for an overall decent price?

Edit: and I just wanted to reiterate that I wouldn't wait for it to burn out, I just didn't notice any type of dimming on my picture is all, curious if that's just a fairly early precautionary message as opposed.


----------



## Dirt9

Savatage316 said:


> Yea I can definitely do that.. Where do most shop for bulbs, anywhere in particular for an overall decent price?
> 
> Edit: and I just wanted to reiterate that I wouldn't wait for it to burn out, I just didn't notice any type of dimming on my picture is all, curious if that's just a fairly early precautionary message as opposed.


depending on where your located,b&h photo has good price and are lagit,i got my 5040 and Yamaha 3070 from them with out a hitch


----------



## Dirt9

3500 hours is getting up there,I bet when you put a new bulb in you'll notice a big difference ,prob wouldn't hurt to change the filter while your at it.


----------



## Savatage316

Dirt9 said:


> depending on where your located,b&h photo has good price and are lagit,i got my 5040 and Yamaha 3070 from them with out a hitch


One last question man, what is the exact bulb for the 5040ub? There's a handful coming up but I just want to make sure I snag the correct one.

Thanks for the info btw


----------



## WildThing

pete ramberg said:


> I was one of the first to get the 5040UB when it came out 3 years ago. I didn't notice much (maybe a little) change in the pixel structure with and without 4k enhancement - both looked pretty close to each other. I never thought anything about it.
> 
> Fast forward to last month. I helped a friend install his brand-new 5040UB and immediately noticed that the pixel structure with 4k enhancement "on" was virtually invisible - almost perfectly solid and seamless.
> 
> I never gave it much thought, as I had nothing to compare my 5040UB to - in fact, I went back and looked at an early review of the unit, and photos showing the before-and-after 4k enhancement pixel structure looked just like mine - less structure, but clearly visible.
> 
> 
> So, my question is: did the 5040UB get an upgrade to its pixel shifting hardware or software in the 3 years since it came out? BTW, I did do the version 1.09 software upgrade.
> 
> Thanks if anybody has an idea.
> 
> P Ramberg


I would be very surprised. Are you sure that the image enhancement settings were the same on both projectors?


----------



## Al O

Savatage316 said:


> One last question man, what is the exact bulb for the 5040ub? There's a handful coming up but I just want to make sure I snag the correct one.
> 
> Thanks for the info btw


https://epson.com/Accessories/Proje...-Replacement-Projector-Lamp-Bulb/p/V13H010L89


----------



## Gazzer55

Hi All - I have had the Epson 5040 for ~2 months now and notice that for all content the 4k enhancement is greyed out......I assume it is a default to always be on but found it strange that for bluerays, streaming netflix through xbox, youtube through amazon fire stick etc I don't have the option to turn it on or off. Is this typical or do I have a faulty unit??? Thanks!


----------



## roland6465

Gazzer55 said:


> Hi All - I have had the Epson 5040 for ~2 months now and notice that for all content the 4k enhancement is greyed out......I assume it is a default to always be on but found it strange that for bluerays, streaming netflix through xbox, youtube through amazon fire stick etc I don't have the option to turn it on or off. Is this typical or do I have a faulty unit??? Thanks!



Are your XBox and Firestick outputting 3840 x 2160 or 1920 x 1080? If the Epson is receiving a 4K signal, you can't change Enhancement.


I don't have either, but my UHD player and ATV can output native resolution. I'm sure there's a setting you can change.


----------



## cowbodude99

Hi,
Are the 5040 unit still randomly dying on people? This looks like a good option for me, but really don't want to buy another PJ a few months after the warranty expires.... if I even make it that long!


----------



## Dirt9

Yeah they still have the power failures.just have to warranty it until you get a good one if this happens


----------



## Dirt9

The problem is there's nothing I'm aware of at the same price point that compares in picture quality.


----------



## cowbodude99

Dirt9 said:


> The problem is there's nothing I'm aware of at the same price point that compares in picture quality.


Right... Exactly my dilemma.

Comparing it to the Optoma UHD65 and JVC LX-UH1.

Truly a tough decision.


----------



## pete ramberg

Yes, identical settings. The 5040 at Best Buy Magnolia shows virtually no pixel structure either.

What do you folks see for pixel structure with 4k enhancement "on"?? I see very distinct pixels, although somewhat subdued from the "off" setting.




WildThing said:


> I would be very surprised. Are you sure that the image enhancement settings were the same on both projectors?


----------



## Dirt9

I don't see any pixel structure as long as the movie is clean.movies like the last Jedi and infinity wars have really bad grain or snow dancing all over.


----------



## Dirt9

Then there's Dunkirk and alien covenant that are crystal clear🤔


----------



## Dirt9

Blade runner 2024 is another on that's crystal clear.Its really annoying to get s new movie only to find out it's really grainy.I wish there was a way to know before buying .Once I notice the grain it takes me out of the movie lol


----------



## AdamAttewell

pete ramberg said:


> Yes, identical settings. The 5040 at Best Buy Magnolia shows virtually no pixel structure either.
> 
> What do you folks see for pixel structure with 4k enhancement "on"?? I see very distinct pixels, although somewhat subdued from the "off" setting.



You should be seeing something like this when off:









& then switched on:










The pixel grid should be less pronounced.


----------



## Dirt9

cowbodude99 said:


> Right... Exactly my dilemma.
> 
> Comparing it to the Optoma UHD65 and JVC LX-UH1.
> 
> Truly a tough decision.


Honestly it's all about the black levels.If you could step up to something like the jvc790r it could be a improvement,you could also have two 5040's lol


----------



## pete ramberg

That is what I see - thanks so much for the comparison photos...


AdamAttewell said:


> You should be seeing something like this when off:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> & then switched on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pixel grid should be less pronounced.


----------



## cowbodude99

Dirt9 said:


> Honestly it's all about the black levels.If you could step up to something like the jvc790r it could be a improvement,you could also have two 5040's lol


Right! I'd also have to pair this with a super expensive screen material as well.

I have a quote for a Dragonfly Acoustiweave and LX-UH1 for $2,900 total...

The jvc790r is $1,100 more than that entire set up!

Would you scrap the LX for the Epson 5040?

It looks like the JVC has better resolution/detail, but not quite as bright.


----------



## Dirt9

Dirt9 said:


> Honestly it's all about the black levels.If you could step up to something like the jvc790r it could be a improvement,you could also have two 5040's lol


Or a 5040 and a bad azz subwoofer


----------



## cowbodude99

Dirt9 said:


> Or a 5040 and a bad azz subwoofer


Currently using PSA 15" Ported  so far I like it!


----------



## Gazzer55

Does anyone else notice this??? Could be due to my screen...

I made a 130 inch spandex screen and have the 5040 in a dedicated room (black ceiling, dark grey walls etc). In order for me to watch a 4k movie in HDR I have to crank the brightness up to ~70+ on harpervision in order to see any detail in the dark scenes. It looks great but then for light scenes, Infinity War as an example, it is too bright.......I realized yesterday when comparing the Blueray to the 4k movie, the Blueray was more enjoyable to watch as I could get almost the same contrast in scenes and just overall more consistency...........perhaps this is due to the low gain nature of my spandex screen however it seems buying 4k bluerays is just a waste of money at this stage!


----------



## Dirt9

cowbodude99 said:


> Right! I'd also have to pair this with a super expensive screen material as well.
> 
> I have a quote for a Dragonfly Acoustiweave and LX-UH1 for $2,900 total...
> 
> The jvc790r is $1,100 more than that entire set up!
> 
> Would you scrap the LX for the Epson 5040?
> 
> It looks like the JVC has better resolution/detail, but not quite as bright.


I would because I want the deepest black levels and the most contrast I can afford.dlp projectors are not known for having the best black levels,


----------



## cowbodude99

Dirt9 said:


> I would because I want the deepest black levels and the most contrast I can afford.dlp projectors are not known for having the best black levels,


It is difficult to find out anything about the Dragonfly material... I will be sitting 6-10' from the screen and don't know if I'll see the weave pattern... They do not ship samples.

Then you have Center Stage UF - which will probably do nicely...

Or a Silver Ticket at 1/4 of the price, but I'm sure there are a lot of trade offs.


----------



## Dirt9

Dirt9 said:


> As far as the screen goes......At the top of page 564 is what I'm getting out of a $400 woven screen just messing around with the settings.


Those where taken with a really old azz phone and are way better in person.


----------



## cowbodude99

Dirt9 said:


> As far as the screen goes......At the top of page 564 is what I'm getting out of a $400 woven screen just messing around with the settings.


When you say $400 woven screen, is that DIY, or something like a Silver Ticket?

Are you able to see the weave? I don't see it in the pics...

How is the contrast on that screen? It's hard to see on my monitor vs real life.


----------



## Dirt9

cowbodude99 said:


> When you say $400 woven screen, is that DIY, or something like a Silver Ticket?
> 
> Are you able to see the weave? I don't see it in the pics...
> 
> How is the contrast on that screen? It's hard to see on my monitor vs real life.


Not supposed to relate prices and products but I think my screen is the (ticket) as far as value on the dollar but there's always something better,and the contrast and black levels are only as good as the viewing environment.


----------



## Dirt9

Everything has a point of diminishing returns.


----------



## rpoulos

Does anyone know why Apple TV4K looks terribly washed out and dark when set to HDR? I have tried various settings/calibrations and can't get it to look anywhere as good as Xbox One... comparing Netflix to Netflix on both devices.

The I switched Apple TV back to SDR and boom, looks almost identical to the Xbox one HDR. 

What's up with that?


----------



## cowbodude99

But as for the woven screen- can you see the weave from 6' away?


----------



## Dirt9

I have a 115 screen,at 6 feet which is way to close for me I can slightly see the weave when paused on white backgrounds.at 12 feet it's all good.your going to see the weave or perf at 6 feet at any price point,solid vinyl might be a better option at very close viewing or a 80" tv?


----------



## Dirt9

Gazzer55 said:


> Does anyone else notice this??? Could be due to my screen...
> 
> I made a 130 inch spandex screen and have the 5040 in a dedicated room (black ceiling, dark grey walls etc). In order for me to watch a 4k movie in HDR I have to crank the brightness up to ~70+ on harpervision in order to see any detail in the dark scenes. It looks great but then for light scenes, Infinity War as an example, it is too bright.......I realized yesterday when comparing the Blueray to the 4k movie, the Blueray was more enjoyable to watch as I could get almost the same contrast in scenes and just overall more consistency...........perhaps this is due to the low gain nature of my spandex screen however it seems buying 4k bluerays is just a waste of money at this stage!


4K hdr takes allot of fiddling with a projector.once you find what works its 4K or nothing👍


----------



## Dirt9

cowbodude99 said:


> Currently using PSA 15" Ported  so far I like it!


I went with seven 110's and really like em paired with two cap 1400 subs,in my 2200 cubic foot room this combo is impressive.


----------



## Dirt9

It can literally make the one window I have in the room ripple like water with thx bass test on YouTube


----------



## Dirt9

But back to the 5040 I say go for it!! and pair it with the best screen you can afford!!!


----------



## cowbodude99

Dirt9 said:


> But back to the 5040 I say go for it!! and pair it with the best screen you can afford!!!


Thanks, Dirt9.

That leads to 1 more q... Afford is a keyword, however it is misleading in the PJ Screen game!

If I can afford the material and build my own frame, I would save a lot of $ for the same exact screen material.


----------



## Dirt9

cowbodude99 said:


> Thanks, Dirt9.
> 
> That leads to 1 more q... Afford is a keyword, however it is misleading in the PJ Screen game!
> 
> If I can afford the material and build my own frame, I would save a lot of $ for the same exact screen material.


I looked into it when I was building my room,I figured a 50% savings for diy screen but opted out just beacaus I wanted a light rigid screen frame and no fussing around.


----------



## Dirt9

I was chomping at the bit by the end of my build lol


----------



## Dirt9

Plus you have a way to re tension the screen with a spring kit in a few years without having to rip out all the staples on a diy screen unless you come up with something ingenious.


----------



## Dirt9

Pm me and we can talk about this more and keep this forum uncluttered 👍


----------



## echo419

Does the Lens Iris setting in the Advanced menu decrease light output? I'm thinking I should have gotten a 5040 instead of a 4000, its too bright.


----------



## Dirt9

echo419 said:


> Does the Lens Iris setting in the Advanced menu decrease light output? I'm thinking I should have gotten a 5040 instead of a 4000, its too bright.


yeah close it down to preference,is it to bright as in making you squint or is the black level not good enough?


----------



## echo419

It gives me eye strain and I haven't been able to figure out exactly why, I'm guessing its too bright. I've calibrated it with discs and sensors. I have tried ND filters which I think helps but the picture looks muddy.


----------



## misterg51

rpoulos said:


> Does anyone know why Apple TV4K looks terribly washed out and dark when set to HDR? I have tried various settings/calibrations and can't get it to look anywhere as good as Xbox One... comparing Netflix to Netflix on both devices.
> 
> The I switched Apple TV back to SDR and boom, looks almost identical to the Xbox one HDR.
> 
> What's up with that?


Set to SDR and make both image settings to match/track with content


----------



## Natrix1973

Gazzer55 said:


> Does anyone else notice this??? Could be due to my screen...
> 
> I made a 130 inch spandex screen and have the 5040 in a dedicated room (black ceiling, dark grey walls etc). In order for me to watch a 4k movie in HDR I have to crank the brightness up to ~70+ on harpervision in order to see any detail in the dark scenes. It looks great but then for light scenes, Infinity War as an example, it is too bright.......I realized yesterday when comparing the Blueray to the 4k movie, the Blueray was more enjoyable to watch as I could get almost the same contrast in scenes and just overall more consistency...........perhaps this is due to the low gain nature of my spandex screen however it seems buying 4k bluerays is just a waste of money at this stage!


I also have a 130" spandex screen and do not have any issues with the Harpervision settings during Infinity War. The picture is awesome in dark and light scenes although I could up the brightness to around 55 due to my room. It sounds like you might be missing something in the settings. I would double check the gamma settings and dynamic range is set to SDR as a starting point. I was able to kind of reproduce what you were saying if the dynamic range was left to Auto/HDR instead of SDR. I could incread brightness to around 70 in dark scenes but then in light scenes it was blown out and the colors were also off as well.


----------



## teamak

I am having some issues trying to get HDR working on my Shield/5040ub setup. I have went page by page and got close to some answers but ended up failing. 



I was initially running 4k 60hz in the Shield. I thought I was getting HDR across all my apps because when I open a rips of UHD HDR discs via KODI, the Epson shows a HDR signal being received. I then tried to see if Netflix was being fed a HDR signal and no luck. I then tried switching to 23.9xx hz and my Shield was extremely laggy with some weird color issues in the home menus. Sometimes I would get some maroon-ish coloring where the blacks used to be. Not a good look at all. However, Netflix now shows the HDR flag and Amazon Prime is displaying HDR. I am just confused has to how I was able to get a HDR signal on 4k 60hz via KODI and not Netflix/Amazon.


What is the most optimal HDMI setting for my setup? I am not digging the laggy/glitchy look of the 23.9xx hz I have to get Netflix and Amazon to currently show HDR. 



Also, what is the best calibration setting that you guys use for this setup? I have little to no ambient lighting and prefer the deep, rich, vivid colors that make everything pop.


----------



## teamak

teamak said:


> I am having some issues trying to get HDR working on my Shield/5040ub setup. I have went page by page and got close to some answers but ended up failing.
> 
> 
> 
> I was initially running 4k 60hz in the Shield. I thought I was getting HDR across all my apps because when I open a rips of UHD HDR discs via KODI, the Epson shows a HDR signal being received. I then tried to see if Netflix was being fed a HDR signal and no luck. I then tried switching to 23.9xx hz and my Shield was extremely laggy with some weird color issues in the home menus. Sometimes I would get some maroon-ish coloring where the blacks used to be. Not a good look at all. However, Netflix now shows the HDR flag and Amazon Prime is displaying HDR. I am just confused has to how I was able to get a HDR signal on 4k 60hz via KODI and not Netflix/Amazon.
> 
> 
> What is the most optimal HDMI setting for my setup? I am not digging the laggy/glitchy look of the 23.9xx hz I have to get Netflix and Amazon to currently show HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, what is the best calibration setting that you guys use for this setup? I have little to no ambient lighting and prefer the deep, rich, vivid colors that make everything pop.


Here is what I’m im seeing:


----------



## Juboy

Gazzer55 said:


> Does anyone else notice this??? Could be due to my screen...
> 
> I made a 130 inch spandex screen and have the 5040 in a dedicated room (black ceiling, dark grey walls etc). In order for me to watch a 4k movie in HDR I have to crank the brightness up to ~70+ on harpervision in order to see any detail in the dark scenes. It looks great but then for light scenes, Infinity War as an example, it is too bright.......I realized yesterday when comparing the Blueray to the 4k movie, the Blueray was more enjoyable to watch as I could get almost the same contrast in scenes and just overall more consistency...........perhaps this is due to the low gain nature of my spandex screen however it seems buying 4k bluerays is just a waste of money at this stage!



The PJ does such a good job, with the right settings, of SDR 1080p sources that the one aspect I find disappointing with it is that HDR 4K sources don't actually tend to look much, if at all, better. Specular highlights excepted, I don't see many enhancements. Maybe because it can't _really _do HDR properly, and it's not native 4K, that's to be expected.


----------



## roland6465

Juboy said:


> The PJ does such a good job, with the right settings, of SDR 1080p sources that the one aspect I find disappointing with it is that HDR 4K sources don't actually tend to look much, if at all, better. Specular highlights excepted, I don't see many enhancements. Maybe because it can't _really _do HDR properly, and it's not native 4K, that's to be expected.



When I switched from the 6040ub to a Sony 285es, I did immediately notice that the image from it's 4K panel on true 4K material is sharper and smoother (is that possible???) than the pixel-shift Epson. I lost some black level, but in my blacked-out room, it's negligable. 



For the price, though, there isn't a better projector out there than the 5040/6040 when it works. I just got tired of exchanging defective refurbs.


----------



## WildThing

pete ramberg said:


> Yes, identical settings. The 5040 at Best Buy Magnolia shows virtually no pixel structure either.
> 
> What do you folks see for pixel structure with 4k enhancement "on"?? I see very distinct pixels, although somewhat subdued from the "off" setting.


If you want to see that it works, just go into a text menu and try to film in slow motion (like with an iPhone) and you will see clearly see if it ****s correctly.


----------



## chinafbi

Im a new owner of the epson 5040ub and is using it with a shield tv. I dont know what hdmi settings on the shield to use for 4k hdr contents. Anyone know this?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## pete ramberg

Are you saying that in slow motion, you can see the pixel shifting?


WildThing said:


> If you want to see that it works, just go into a text menu and try to film in slow motion (like with an iPhone) and you will see clearly see if it ****s correctly.


----------



## WildThing

pete ramberg said:


> Are you saying that in slow motion, you can see the pixel shifting?


Yes very clearly! As you begin you see the image like your eyes see, but as soon as the slow motion begin you can clearly see the pixel shift.

I just uploaded my version on Youtube if you want to compare.


----------



## pete ramberg

That is pretty cool! Thanks so much for posting it.


WildThing said:


> Yes very clearly! As you begin you see the image like your eyes see, but as soon as the slow motion begin you can clearly see the pixel shift.
> 
> I just uploaded my version on Youtube if you want to compare.
> 
> https://youtu.be/JpaXkD8f3HI


----------



## teamak

teamak said:


> I am having some issues trying to get HDR working on my Shield/5040ub setup. I have went page by page and got close to some answers but ended up failing.
> 
> 
> 
> I was initially running 4k 60hz in the Shield. I thought I was getting HDR across all my apps because when I open a rips of UHD HDR discs via KODI, the Epson shows a HDR signal being received. I then tried to see if Netflix was being fed a HDR signal and no luck. I then tried switching to 23.9xx hz and my Shield was extremely laggy with some weird color issues in the home menus. Sometimes I would get some maroon-ish coloring where the blacks used to be. Not a good look at all. However, Netflix now shows the HDR flag and Amazon Prime is displaying HDR. I am just confused has to how I was able to get a HDR signal on 4k 60hz via KODI and not Netflix/Amazon.
> 
> 
> What is the most optimal HDMI setting for my setup? I am not digging the laggy/glitchy look of the 23.9xx hz I have to get Netflix and Amazon to currently show HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, what is the best calibration setting that you guys use for this setup? I have little to no ambient lighting and prefer the deep, rich, vivid colors that make everything pop.



Looks like quite a few users here are asking for updates similar to my inquiry. Can anyone explain why my Shield would be experiencing lag/choppy menus in any hz at or under 30? Everything works extremely smooth in 4k above 30hz.


----------



## Dirt9

teamak said:


> Looks like quite a few users here are asking for updates similar to my inquiry. Can anyone explain why my Shield would be experiencing lag/choppy menus in any hz at or under 30? Everything works extremely smooth in 4k above 30hz.


The only thing I can think is the extra load of processing the hdr signal?


----------



## Dirt9

Don't quote me on this but I think the only way to get 4k at 60 hz is with a signal stripping device such as a hd furry


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dirt9 said:


> Don't quote me on this but I think the only way to get 4k at 60 hz is with a signal stripping device such as a hd furry



Just FYI you can edit your previous post instead of double posting.


----------



## teamak

Dirt9 said:


> Don't quote me on this but I think the only way to get 4k at 60 hz is with a signal stripping device such as a hd furry



You can get 4k at 60hz, you just cannot get HDR. However, Shield does allow the Epson to broadcast 4k HDR at 24 or 23.676 but I get extremely laggy and choppy motions when exploring the Shield home menu and basically any app I open. The movies are running fine though. I am getting 4k HDR in Amazon, but I believe Netflix can only do 4k HDR at 60hz. So what Netflix in my Shield is doing is putting out a HDR signal with an up-scaled HD picture.


I think the lag I am experiencing may have something to do with the refresh rate in Shield. So my question is this:



What HDR calibration settings is everyone?
Can I still get optimal 4k HDR quality from using my physical UHD HDR discs with my Xbox One X?
How can I achieve the 4k 60hz smoothness at 4k 24/23.976?


----------



## Dirt9

AdamAttewell said:


> Just FYI you can edit your previous post instead of double posting.


Why yes I'm aware of this


----------



## AdamAttewell

Dirt9 said:


> Why yes I'm aware of this



Are you asking why?


Saves on cluttering the thread with single sentence posts.


----------



## Dirt9

AdamAttewell said:


> Are you asking why?
> 
> 
> Saves on cluttering the thread with single sentence posts.


So does not complaining about double post. no affense


----------



## terminal33

Savatage316 said:


> Anyone able to comment on general bulb info? How many hours did some of you get before needing to switch out the bulb?


I'm at 4,500 hours and no bulb message as appeared. But I use Eco lamp most of the time and High lamp for HDR content only.


----------



## Savatage316

terminal33 said:


> I'm at 4,500 hours and no bulb message as appeared. But I use Eco lamp most of the time and High lamp for HDR content only.


Yea mine is and has been set on eco. What's weird is the other day I didn't get the message when I fired it up. 

It's just odd because while I know that it's not brand new, it definitely hasn't dimmed any.. I'm always able to pick up on when a projection screen starts to dim.. But I never had one give a message so that's why I was curious.


----------



## Deejay Freddy

*Just Received my 5040UB yesterday.*

Just received my 5040UB yesterday and had about an hour of testing time.

I hit a snag when running Netflix on an Xbox One X, tried Planet Earth 2 (Ultra HD) and the projector goes black, and on again and off again.

I saw some post that some 5040UB users bought the HD Fury and this fixed this issue.

The HD Fury 1 is no longer available, they now have an HD Fury 2 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HWLZFD7/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wonder if it functions the same way.

Thanks


----------



## Dirt9

BT2020 HDR ,not forced sdr, no hdr stripping,philips bdp5502 disk player,silverticket AT WAB 113 diagonal screen,taken on a original iPhone 5


----------



## Savatage316

So weird... I had always thought from way back that it was set on eco, and apparently one day somehow it got set to high power. So hopefully that'll let me hold off another 1000 hours or so


----------



## Dave Harper

teamak said:


> *You can get 4k at 60hz, you just cannot get HDR. *However, Shield does allow the Epson to broadcast 4k HDR at 24 or 23.676 but I get extremely laggy and choppy motions when exploring the Shield home menu and basically any app I open. The movies are running fine though. I am getting 4k HDR in Amazon, but I believe Netflix can only do 4k HDR at 60hz. So what Netflix in my Shield is doing is putting out a HDR signal with an up-scaled HD picture.
> 
> I think the lag I am experiencing may have something to do with the refresh rate in Shield. So my question is this:
> 
> What HDR calibration settings is everyone?
> Can I still get optimal 4k HDR quality from using my physical UHD HDR discs with my Xbox One X?
> How can I achieve the 4k 60hz smoothness at 4k 24/23.976?



You can actually use an HDFURY Linker or a Vertex to Force 8 bit color when displaying 4K60 and get HDR to display with dithered down color depth. I recall doing this when I had a 5040. It’s probably somewhere in this thread.


----------



## teamak

Dave Harper said:


> teamak said:
> 
> 
> 
> *You can get 4k at 60hz, you just cannot get HDR. *However, Shield does allow the Epson to broadcast 4k HDR at 24 or 23.676 but I get extremely laggy and choppy motions when exploring the Shield home menu and basically any app I open. The movies are running fine though. I am getting 4k HDR in Amazon, but I believe Netflix can only do 4k HDR at 60hz. So what Netflix in my Shield is doing is putting out a HDR signal with an up-scaled HD picture.
> 
> I think the lag I am experiencing may have something to do with the refresh rate in Shield. So my question is this:
> 
> What HDR calibration settings is everyone?
> Can I still get optimal 4k HDR quality from using my physical UHD HDR discs with my Xbox One X?
> How can I achieve the 4k 60hz smoothness at 4k 24/23.976?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can actually use an HDFURY Linker or a Vertex to Force 8 bit color when displaying 4K60 and get HDR to display with dithered down color depth. I recall doing this when I had a 5040. It’s probably somewhere in this thread.
Click to expand...

I see. I will definitely take a look at the device. What calibration settings would you recommend for HDR viewing in a light-controlled room?


----------



## Deejay Freddy

Dave Harper said:


> You can actually use an HDFURY Linker or a Vertex to Force 8 bit color when displaying 4K60 and get HDR to display with dithered down color depth. I recall doing this when I had a 5040. It’s probably somewhere in this thread.



HD Fury no loner available to order, they now have a version 2. I wonder if it does the same thing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HWLZFD7/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## chinafbi

Do you guy use hdr on your epson 5040ub or you turn it off and only use sdr?? Just wondering.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## MMoser

Both, I use madvr to dynamicly clip hdr. I don't use the hdr>sdr method as we like more pop.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jbnpaul

MMoser said:


> Both, I use madvr to dynamicly clip hdr. I don't use the hdr>sdr method as we like more pop.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk




What is your madvr set up? And how do you feed hdr to the projector?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MMoser

jbnpaul said:


> What is your madvr set up? And how do you feed hdr to the projector?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


1:1 backup with makemkv.
Madvr set to clip at 135 to 155 depending on the movie, sending hdr, using sharp med. Epson set on hdr1 in dynamic mode.

Looks amazing!

Btw: in windows 10, enable hdr in the display settings, seems to give a render boost. I'm using a RTX 2070 gpu and i7 8700k cpu.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

teamak said:


> I see. I will definitely take a look at the device. What calibration settings would you recommend for HDR viewing in a light-controlled room?



Why my own HarperVision settings.....of course! 



Deejay Freddy said:


> HD Fury no loner available to order, they now have a version 2. I wonder if it does the same thing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HWLZFD7/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I think you’re talking about the Integral. I am talking about the Linker or Vertex which has scaling capabilities. I think the new Integral 2 does as well.


----------



## MattTN

Dave Harper said:


> Why my own HarperVision settings.....of course!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you’re talking about the Integral. I am talking about the Linker or Vertex which has scaling capabilities. I think the new Integral 2 does as well.


Professor Harper,

I assume these types of device(s) dramatically improve the image experience? What would you recommend with an Apple TV 4 and this projector? 

Matt

Edit: Thanks for the clarification guys!


----------



## rbk123

MattTN said:


> Professor Harper,
> 
> I assume these types of device(s) dramatically improve the image experience? What would you recommend with an Apple TV 4 and this projector?


Not necessarily "improve" but rather they let you get around the various copy protections in HDMI, which will allow you to view on settings you normally couldn't view on.


----------



## Deejay Freddy

Dave Harper said:


> Why my own HarperVision settings.....of course!
> 
> 
> I think you’re talking about the Integral. I am talking about the Linker or Vertex which has scaling capabilities. I think the new Integral 2 does as well.




Cool! I had to order the Integral 2 as the 1 is no longer available. Hopefully it all works out.


----------



## gene4ht

Good indication that replacement model (5050?) will be here soon...

https://www.visualapex.com/Epson/Projector-Specifications.asp?For-The=Home-Cinema-5040UB


----------



## ezelkow1

gene4ht said:


> Good indication that replacement model (5050?) will be here soon...
> 
> https://www.visualapex.com/Epson/Projector-Specifications.asp?For-The=Home-Cinema-5040UB


yea its been that price for a while now, epson has been running the sale on their own site too, and most partners, https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...ctor-with-4K-Enhancement-and-HDR/p/V11H713020

But it ends March 2nd, so speculation is maybe that first week of march the 5050 will be out


----------



## gene4ht

ezelkow1 said:


> yea its been that price for a while now, epson has been running the sale on their own site too, and most partners, https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...ctor-with-4K-Enhancement-and-HDR/p/V11H713020
> 
> But it ends March 2nd, so speculation is maybe that first week of march the 5050 will be out


Yep...sounds like we're nearing the countdown date...especially when dealers are obviously trying to deplete inventories by including free shipping, free mounts, and a free lamp.


----------



## Dave Harper

Deejay Freddy said:


> Cool! I had to order the Integral 2 as the 1 is no longer available. Hopefully it all works out.



The Integral 1 wouldn’t have worked anyway since it had no scaling abilities. Only the Linker, Vertex and I believe Integral 2 do that, so you should be good but I’d check to make sure. 



MattTN said:


> Professor Harper,
> 
> 
> 
> I assume these types of device(s) dramatically improve the image experience? What would you recommend with an Apple TV 4 and this projector?
> 
> 
> 
> Matt



As stated there’s no image improvement from the Integral itself, other than if it allows you to send a mode you otherwise couldn’t have into the display without it. Such as with my BenQ LK970 which natively doesn’t support HDR but I used a Vertex (but now a Radiance Pro) to fool my sources to send full HDR. Then I perform my HarperVision techniques on it to make it look spectacular. 

The HDFURY devices are just EDID Manipulators to fool the source into thinking it’s connected to a display with capabilities it may not have or be present via its own internal EDID.


----------



## robstl

Savatage316 said:


> Yea mine is and has been set on eco. What's weird is the other day I didn't get the message when I fired it up.
> 
> It's just odd because while I know that it's not brand new, it definitely hasn't dimmed any.. I'm always able to pick up on when a projection screen starts to dim.. But I never had one give a message so that's why I was curious.


I've had my 5040UB since October 2016. The first lamp, which was run in ECO mode 90% of the time, suddenly quit at about 1,470 hours. No dimming and no warning, the lamp just failed to turn on one day. Epson sent me a replacement lamp which I ran 100% of the time in ECO mode. It suddenly failed without warning at about 700 hours. I turned the projector on tonight and the lamp did not illuminate. I called Epson and was told this was not a common problem. Since "Customer Relations" was closed, I have to call back Monday to see if they will help me.

Anyone have a similar experience with lamps going out very early? These lamps are supposed to last up to 5,000 hours in ECO mode so given that both of my lamps have quit far earlier than that, it seems I either have really bad luck or maybe the projector is pushing too hard. (I run it in ECO mode in a completely dark room with ambient temperature of 67-69 degrees F.)


----------



## AdamAttewell

robstl said:


> I've had my 5040UB since October 2016. The first lamp, which was run in ECO mode 90% of the time, suddenly quit at about 1,470 hours. No dimming and no warning, the lamp just failed to turn on one day. Epson sent me a replacement lamp which I ran 100% of the time in ECO mode. It suddenly failed without warning at about 700 hours. I turned the projector on tonight and the lamp did not illuminate. I called Epson and was told this was not a common problem. Since "Customer Relations" was closed, I have to call back Monday to see if they will help me.
> 
> Anyone have a similar experience with lamps going out very early? These lamps are supposed to last up to 5,000 hours in ECO mode so given that both of my lamps have quit far earlier than that, it seems I either have really bad luck or maybe the projector is pushing too hard. (I run it in ECO mode in a completely dark room with ambient temperature of 67-69 degrees F.)





Only issue I have had with lamps is flickering when using ECO modes or when turning off the projector soon after it has been switched on.


I would recommend running in high mode for the first 100 hours on a new bulb in any case just to establish a good arc point on the electrode early in the bulbs life.


I have never had a lamp fail on me yet.


----------



## Houssem Cherif

crosswire said:


> Im waiting for the 820 to show up here in Canada and will get it for sure. Any new firmware updates for the 5040ub since earlier in the year?


you have firmware 1.13 avaible in officiel site epson australia and go support after download software after in project after choose eh tw 9300 and in last of page you have firmware


----------



## Houssem Cherif

someone try hdfury 4k and get 4k60ips hdr ?


----------



## Deejay Freddy

Houssem Cherif said:


> someone try hdfury 4k and get 4k60ips hdr ?


Am having an issue with my Xbox One X, playing Netflix or games, picture and sounds just clips off. Been reading this thread and everyone has been using the HD Fury. HD Fury is no longer available and so I wnt with the HD Fury 2 (with scaling). I hope this fixes my issue. I really don't want to return this projector, nothing beats the price for it at this point.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HWLZFD7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Tweakophyte

Hi-

I'm curious if anyone has been using a SilverTicket screen with this PJ. My room is not light controled, but it's in the basement and it's usually fairly dark.

I am currently using a painted wall (one of the old screen formulas from 10 years ago or so), and after training my eyes not to see the roller-lines (and similar defects) I see them again. I forget which one it was, but it's grey-ish with silver flakes in it. Looks good (defects asisde), but new PJ also gives me an excuse...

Do you use grey or white? Gain or not?

Thx


----------



## chinafbi

Tweakophyte said:


> Hi-
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious if anyone has been using a SilverTicket screen with this PJ. My room is not light controled, but it's in the basement and it's usually fairly dark.
> 
> 
> 
> I am currently using a painted wall (one of the old screen formulas from 10 years ago or so), and after training my eyes not to see the roller-lines (and similar defects) I see them again. I forget which one it was, but it's grey-ish with silver flakes in it. Looks good (defects asisde), but new PJ also gives me an excuse...
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use grey or white? Gain or not?
> 
> 
> 
> Thx


I have a grey 135" silver ticket screen. My room is almost completely dark. Ceiling is white and beige side walls. The picture is very satisfying. And i only watch blu ray disc.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## djb61230

Tweakophyte said:


> Hi-
> 
> I'm curious if anyone has been using a SilverTicket screen with this PJ. My room is not light controled, but it's in the basement and it's usually fairly dark.
> 
> I am currently using a painted wall (one of the old screen formulas from 10 years ago or so), and after training my eyes not to see the roller-lines (and similar defects) I see them again. I forget which one it was, but it's grey-ish with silver flakes in it. Looks good (defects asisde), but new PJ also gives me an excuse...
> 
> Do you use grey or white? Gain or not?
> 
> Thx


Yes I am, a 110" White, 1.1 gain. My room is near bat cave status as I have a flat black paint on the ceiling and screen wall, navy carpet, and black velvet on the side walls. Just have the back wall left to do. I'm happy with it as it replaced a DIY blackout cloth screen I made a few years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUQPFLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Dave Harper

Deejay Freddy said:


> Am having an issue with my Xbox One X, playing Netflix or games, picture and sounds just clips off. Been reading this thread and everyone has been using the HD Fury. HD Fury is no longer available and so I wnt with the HD Fury 2 (with scaling). I hope this fixes my issue. I really don't want to return this projector, nothing beats the price for it at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HWLZFD7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



HDFURY is a brand name. I think the Integral is what you’re referring to. They have several products including the Integral 1 & 2, Linker, Vertex, HDMI Doctor, etc.


----------



## robstl

Tweakophyte said:


> Hi-
> 
> I'm curious if anyone has been using a SilverTicket screen with this PJ. My room is not light controled, but it's in the basement and it's usually fairly dark.
> 
> I am currently using a painted wall (one of the old screen formulas from 10 years ago or so), and after training my eyes not to see the roller-lines (and similar defects) I see them again. I forget which one it was, but it's grey-ish with silver flakes in it. Looks good (defects asisde), but new PJ also gives me an excuse...
> 
> Do you use grey or white? Gain or not?
> 
> Thx


I have a Silver Ticket 150" white 1.1 gain thin bezel screen in a light-controlled room. 5040UB is 18' away and the picture is plenty bright in ECO mode. I previously used a Silver Ticket 120" white 1.1 gain screen. Between my experience and reviews, I don't see justification to buy from another vendor unless one has significant money to burn.


----------



## Gellert1

[/quote]
I have a Silver Ticket 150" white 1.1 gain thin bezel screen in a light-controlled room. 5040UB is 18' away and the picture is plenty bright in ECO mode. I previously used a Silver Ticket 120" white 1.1 gain screen. Between my experience and reviews, I don't see justification to buy from another vendor unless one has significant money to burn.[/QUOTE]

I currently own a 135" 1.1 matte white Silver Ticket. I am seriously considering upgrading to a 158" diagonal, 2.35:1 cinescope by Silver Ticket. I'm glad to see another user with the same pairing as me.

My room is also light controlled and can reach bat-cave status.

I'm looking forward to perhaps upgrading to Epson's newest 5050ub model, as well.


----------



## carp

[/QUOTE]

I currently own a 135" 1.1 matte white Silver Ticket. I am seriously considering upgrading to a 158" diagonal, 2.35:1 cinescope by Silver Ticket. I'm glad to see another user with the same pairing as me.

My room is also light controlled and can reach bat-cave status.

I'm looking forward to perhaps upgrading to Epson's newest 5050ub model, as well.[/QUOTE]




I don't have that screen, but I just wanted to chime in because I have had that size you are thinking about (158" diagonal 2:35:1) and the same throw length as you for many years now and have always loved how immersive movies are and have never had thoughts of going smaller to try to get more brightness. Currently I have around 2300 hours on my bulb and have used medium since around 1800 hours.

The front half of my room (ceiling and walls) is all velvet and the back half the ceilng is mouse ears black and the walls are a grayish blue. Front row is 10 feet from the screen, back row 17 feet. I prefer the front. My screen says it's 1.0 gain, but I have read that those specs are often exaggerated so it could be a little less in reality. 

So, anyway, I say go for it. I would be suprised if you didn't like the larger screen. Pictures were taken on my old iphone 6 and look a lot more washed out than it looks in person.


----------



## Gellert1

I don't have that screen, but I just wanted to chime in because I have had that size you are thinking about (158" diagonal 2:35:1) and the same throw length as you for many years now and have always loved how immersive movies are and have never had thoughts of going smaller to try to get more brightness. Currently I have around 2300 hours on my bulb and have used medium since around 1800 hours.

The front half of my room (ceiling and walls) is all velvet and the back half the ceilng is mouse ears black and the walls are a grayish blue. Front row is 10 feet from the screen, back row 17 feet. I prefer the front. My screen says it's 1.0 gain, but I have read that those specs are often exaggerated so it could be a little less in reality. 

So, anyway, I say go for it. I would be suprised if you didn't like the larger screen. Pictures were taken on my old iphone 6 and look a lot more washed out than it looks in person.



























[/QUOTE]

Thanks for chiming in. Do you have any photos of your screen in daylight without a movie? I am curious what your walls look like in height relations with mine. My ceiling is 9'4". Going 158" diagonal 2.35:1 would almost mimic my 16:9 screen's size. Do you have any masking going on (with the sides) when watching 16:9 or do you find it dark enough that it's not an issue?


----------



## westbergjoakim

How are you guys doing? Playing Netflix in 4k60hz without HDR or 1080p60hz with HDR and 4k-upscale? What are working best for you? 

I'm aware of the Linker to get both 4k and HDR, but how about the overall picture when using it? Any downside with it or is that the way to go?

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## carp

[/QUOTE]

Thanks for chiming in. Do you have any photos of your screen in daylight without a movie? I am curious what your walls look like in height relations with mine. My ceiling is 9'4". Going 158" diagonal 2.35:1 would almost mimic my 16:9 screen's size. Do you have any masking going on (with the sides) when watching 16:9 or do you find it dark enough that it's not an issue?[/QUOTE]


With 9' 4" ceilings you are easily good to go with a screen the size of mine. My ceilings are 7' 9". 

Here is what it looks like now:

































It's kind of hard to see much with all the velvet so here are some older pictures.

This one shows what it looked like before adding all the velvet to the ceiling and floor, you can also see some GIK panels on the ceiling. 

















These are from 2012, this was before I had an AT screen. 

You asked about masking panels, I used them back then for non scope content. They were plastic panels about 3/8 inch thick covered in velvet. They snapped right in and out of place are were great but I stopped using them when I got a auto focus/zoom projector. 





























Other old pictures from before the AT screen just for fun. 


















This one shows half way through the process of hiding my subs. The stack of 4 on the right are hidden behind velvet, and I was getting ready to do the same to the stack of 4 subs on the left. 














Last one. 















Haha, one more, sorry. This was when I bought my first projector 8 years ago and was trying to decide what size screen I wanted. I knew immediately that I wanted the largest screen possible for this space.


----------



## carp

In other news my bulb died last night. The past few months the screen would go black for a few seconds after switching inputs. It didn't happen very often, but enough that when it happened last night I didn't think much of it and thought it would come back like has in the past. Instead the fan fired up really loud for a few minutes and sure enough, I got the solid red light by the lamp indicator and the blinking blue light on the status light. 

I did ok I guess, 2300 hours isn't too bad. I bought one today from B&H Photo for 212 shipped. I saw some cheaper prices, but not sure if those were OEM - pretty sure they weren't. 

Should I get a new filter too?


----------



## RadiantHT

Thanks for chiming in. Do you have any photos of your screen in daylight without a movie? I am curious what your walls look like in height relations with mine. My ceiling is 9'4". Going 158" diagonal 2.35:1 would almost mimic my 16:9 screen's size. Do you have any masking going on (with the sides) when watching 16:9 or do you find it dark enough that it's not an issue?[/QUOTE]


With 9' 4" ceilings you are easily good to go with a screen the size of mine. My ceilings are 7' 9". 

Here is what it looks like now:

































It's kind of hard to see much with all the velvet so here are some older pictures.

This one shows what it looked like before adding all the velvet to the ceiling and floor, you can also see some GIK panels on the ceiling. 

















These are from 2012, this was before I had an AT screen. 

You asked about masking panels, I used them back then for non scope content. They were plastic panels about 3/8 inch thick covered in velvet. They snapped right in and out of place are were great but I stopped using them when I got a auto focus/zoom projector. 





























Other old pictures from before the AT screen just for fun. 


















This one shows half way through the process of hiding my subs. The stack of 4 on the right are hidden behind velvet, and I was getting ready to do the same to the stack of 4 subs on the left. 














Last one. 















Haha, one more, sorry. This was when I bought my first projector 8 years ago and was trying to decide what size screen I wanted. I knew immediately that I wanted the largest screen possible for this space. 










[/QUOTE]

That is a great size home theater room. I'm sure you have a beautiful home to match such a large dedicated space.


----------



## carp

[/QUOTE]

That is a great size home theater room. I'm sure you have a beautiful home to match such a large dedicated space.[/QUOTE]


Thanks! Ha, the HT room is a bit disproportionate... 

Not counting the basement the house is 1600 square feet, 3 bedrooms, 2 car garage, very modest. The HT room in the basment is 23x17.5 It was our starter home in 2002 but we never felt an urge to move.


----------



## Dave Harper

> That is a great size home theater room. I'm sure you have a beautiful home to match such a large dedicated space.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Ha, the HT room is a bit disproportionate...
> 
> Not counting the basement the house is 1600 square feet, 3 bedrooms, 2 car garage, very modest. The HT room in the basment is 23x17.5 It was our starter home in 2002 but we never felt an urge to move.
Click to expand...




RadiantHT said:


> Thanks for chiming in. Do you have any photos of your screen in daylight without a movie? I am curious what your walls look like in height relations with mine. My ceiling is 9'4". Going 158" diagonal 2.35:1 would almost mimic my 16:9 screen's size. Do you have any masking going on (with the sides) when watching 16:9 or do you find it dark enough that it's not an issue?
> 
> With 9' 4" ceilings you are easily good to go with a screen the size of mine. My ceilings are 7' 9".
> 
> Here is what it looks like now:
> 
> It's kind of hard to see much with all the velvet so here are some older pictures.
> 
> 
> This one shows what it looked like before adding all the velvet to the ceiling and floor, you can also see some GIK panels on the ceiling.
> 
> These are from 2012, this was before I had an AT screen.
> 
> You asked about masking panels, I used them back then for non scope content. They were plastic panels about 3/8 inch thick covered in velvet. They snapped right in and out of place are were great but I stopped using them when I got a auto focus/zoom projector.
> 
> Other old pictures from before the AT screen just for fun.
> 
> This one shows half way through the process of hiding my subs. The stack of 4 on the right are hidden behind velvet, and I was getting ready to do the same to the stack of 4 subs on the left.
> 
> Last one.
> 
> Haha, one more, sorry. This was when I bought my first projector 8 years ago and was trying to decide what size screen I wanted. I knew immediately that I wanted the largest screen possible for this space.
> 
> That is a great size home theater room. I'm sure you have a beautiful home to match such a large dedicated space.



Just a forum tip, but you guys need to stop putting the “*/*“ in the first “[ QUOTE ]” tag when quoting someone, so it displays it correctly bubble quoted the right way. Your posts are pretty hard to decipher the way you’re doing it.


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

Dave Harper said:


> Just a forum tip, but you guys need to stop putting the “*/*“ in the first “[ QUOTE ]” tag when quoting someone, so it displays it correctly bubble quoted the right way. Your posts are pretty hard to decipher the way you’re doing it.


Isn't the real problem quoting a huge photo post and just adding one text line? 

And BTW, if one is guilty that, one can easily go back and edit/ correct one's post.
Cheers


----------



## Dave Harper

ComradeBrehznev said:


> Isn't the real problem quoting a huge photo post and just adding one text line?
> 
> And BTW, if one is guilty that, one can easily go back and edit/ correct one's post.
> Cheers



Yep, I took the photos out of mine when I quoted them.


----------



## wendellperkins

*Help with tuning in.*

Can someone tell me how to adjust my projector so that the magenta and green line up better? I was hoping for shaper edges. Is there a chance that it is supposed to look like this on white edges?


----------



## AdamAttewell

Can someone set me straight, if stripping HDR should the Epson be able accept 10bit colour depth?

With my Vertex I can only get 8bit to the projector which is what the EDID from the projector says it can accept.

Also if I am stripping HDR should I be using an HDR or SDR memory? I do I need an entirely different picture memory for this?

I am I missing something?


----------



## AdamAttewell

wendellperkins said:


> Can someone tell me how to adjust my projector so that the magenta and green line up better? I was hoping for shaper edges. Is there a chance that it is supposed to look like this on white edges?



If you go to Extended > Panel Alignment & turn panel alignment on you can then adjust the red or blue panels to get better alignment. 



Best to be up close to the screen to do this. Just do the basic one to start with the just does each corner of the grid to start with & see how you get on & see if it solves your problem.


----------



## gene4ht

AdamAttewell said:


> Only issue I have had with lamps is flickering when using ECO modes or when turning off the projector soon after it has been switched on.
> 
> 
> I would recommend running in high mode for the first 100 hours on a new bulb in any case just to* establish a good arc point on the electrode early in the bulbs life.*
> 
> 
> I have never had a lamp fail on me yet.


Would you mind explaining what this means in layman’s terms and why it would be important? TIA


----------



## RadiantHT

It scares me that it seemed to take hundreds of pages from numerous people to learn how to calibrate the Epson 5040. Why are Epson projectors so bad out of the box? Why is their out of box color accuracy so poor compared to a Sony projector? I think it's very sad that someone should buy a $3,000 projector and then have to get a professional calibrator just to get it to look fairly accurate in most picture modes.


----------



## avtoronto

RadiantHT said:


> It scares me that it seemed to take hundreds of pages from numerous people to learn how to calibrate the Epson 5040. Why are Epson projectors so bad out of the box? Why is there out of box color accuracy so poor compared to a Sony projector? I think it's very sad that someone should buy a $3,000 projector and then have to get a professional calibrator just to get it to look fairly accurate in most picture modes.


Many of us are likely more OCD about the settings than is justified. The out-of-the-box SDR settings when using the Natural mode have been cited as being very good, with little minimum additional tweaking required. HDR is another matter entirely, but it occurs to me players, streamers, and projectors all require tweaking to some extent when playing back HDR material, so in this, the Epson is not very different.


----------



## chinafbi

RadiantHT said:


> It scares me that it seemed to take hundreds of pages from numerous people to learn how to calibrate the Epson 5040. Why are Epson projectors so bad out of the box? Why is there out of box color accuracy so poor compared to a Sony projector? I think it's very sad that someone should buy a $3,000 projector and then have to get a professional calibrator just to get it to look fairly accurate in most picture modes.


The pictures are really good on mine. No need to do additional setting

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## carp

RadiantHT said:


> It scares me that it seemed to take hundreds of pages from numerous people to learn how to calibrate the Epson 5040. Why are Epson projectors so bad out of the box? Why is their out of box color accuracy so poor compared to a Sony projector? I think it's very sad that someone should buy a $3,000 projector and then have to get a professional calibrator just to get it to look fairly accurate in most picture modes.


None of the user calibrations are for me (I've tried a ton of them) and neither was a professional calibration. For me bright cinema right out of the box looks the best for non HDR and for HDR I use the same but adjust the dynamic range slider on the Panasonic 900 to taste. 

I have a very large screen, not sure how much that has to do with my preferences.


----------



## carp

Also, it sells for 1999 now days which is crazy cheap IMO for how good it is.


----------



## wendellperkins

*A little more help*



AdamAttewell said:


> If you go to Extended > Panel Alignment & turn panel alignment on you can then adjust the red or blue panels to get better alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> Best to be up close to the screen to do this. Just do the basic one to start with the just does each corner of the grid to start with & see how you get on & see if it solves your problem.


Thanks! I would have never found that.


----------



## Tweakophyte

RadiantHT said:


> It scares me that it seemed to take hundreds of pages from numerous people to learn how to calibrate the Epson 5040. Why are Epson projectors so bad out of the box? Why is their out of box color accuracy so poor compared to a Sony projector? I think it's very sad that someone should buy a $3,000 projector and then have to get a professional calibrator just to get it to look fairly accurate in most picture modes.





avtoronto said:


> Many of us are likely more OCD about the settings than is justified. The out-of-the-box SDR settings when using the Natural mode have been cited as being very good, with little minimum additional tweaking required. HDR is another matter entirely, but it occurs to me players, streamers, and projectors all require tweaking to some extent when playing back HDR material, so in this, the Epson is not very different.





carp said:


> None of the user calibrations are for me (I've tried a ton of them) and neither was a professional calibration. For me bright cinema right out of the box looks the best for non HDR and for HDR I use the same but adjust the dynamic range slider on the Panasonic 900 to taste.
> 
> I have a very large screen, not sure how much that has to do with my preferences.


This PJ is known for awesome OOTB performance. Remember you're on a tweakers forum. 

Plus all of this ^^^^


----------



## nonstopdoc1

Has anyone here switched from JVC to Epson? What made you switch? How would you compare the two from your real work experience?


----------



## Stephen1254

*Should I Do a Factory Upgrade After 15 Months?*

I followed this thread for some time, and made the decision to purchase the 5040ub. I purchased a new unit and installed it 15 months ago. I very carefully aligned the projector, made a couple of small tweaks to one of the factory picture modes, and have thoroughly enjoyed every minute that I have spent with it.

I got completely away from this thread, mostly because of problems people were posting about like bad power supplies. Having made the decision to buy the projector, I decided to just enjoy it. That means I haven't done any of the factory upgrades that have come out. My questions are 1) do the upgrades provide any real performance upgrade? and 2) any danger of bricking the unit?


----------



## CinemaNEWB

Hello. Newb here with new 5040UB. 



Im having an issue with HDMI cords not displaying video?


Using a regular ole blue ray player, I have 2 shorter HDMI cords that display video. 



I needed a 15ft to run in the attic so I ordered a popular one from amazon...it didn't display video and I thought that was odd. Ordered another fancy HDMI cord and still doesn't display video. 



Im at a loss, please any help would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## Dave Harper

CinemaNEWB said:


> Hello. Newb here with new 5040UB.
> 
> Im having an issue with HDMI cords not displaying video?
> 
> Using a regular ole blue ray player, I have 2 shorter HDMI cords that display video.
> 
> I needed a 15ft to run in the attic so I ordered a popular one from amazon...it didn't display video and I thought that was odd. Ordered another fancy HDMI cord and still doesn't display video.
> 
> Im at a loss, please any help would be appreciated. Thanks



Have you made sure the HDMI cables you bought weren’t directional?

Are the cables going through any other gear like an AV receiver? If so, try connecting direct from your source to the 5040 as a test. If it works then you need to research why your receiver isn’t passing the signal.


----------



## carp

nonstopdoc1 said:


> Has anyone here switched from JVC to Epson? What made you switch? How would you compare the two from your real work experience?


I have had the 5040 for 2.5 years. A little over a year ago I bought a JVC RS600. It was cosmetically damaged in shipping, but the seller said I could try it out before sending it back. I ended up not wanting a replaced or repaired unit. UPS paid for the repair and I stuck with the 5040. 


JVC takes FOREVER to switch inputs, Epson much faster.

Motion looks better to me on Epson.

Blacks better on JVC.

Contrast better too obviously.

I would descrive the JVC as more "film like" looking.

No settings or messing with gama could get me something on the JVC that would be the equivalent of how the Epson looks on Bright Cinema. I think have a very large screen (158 inch 2:35:1) plays a big role here. 

The image just pops more to me with the Epson, and the blacks/contrast are good enough for me. 

Some see the screen door effect at times on the Epson, I don't see it so I don't care about that. 

I just always felt that the JVC was too dark. I have also had a professionally calibrated rs500 in my room and I thought that was too dark too. To be fair, I think the 5040 calibrated is too dark too. 

I just bought a oem replacement bulb from B&H Photo for 218 shipped, JVC bulbs are a lot more expensive.


----------



## gene4ht

carp said:


> I have had the 5040 for 2.5 years. A little over a year ago I bought a JVC RS600. It was cosmetically damaged in shipping, but the seller said I could try it out before sending it back. I ended up not wanting a replaced or repaired unit. UPS paid for the repair and I stuck with the 5040.
> 
> 
> JVC takes FOREVER to switch inputs, Epson much faster.
> 
> Motion looks better to me on Epson.
> 
> Blacks better on JVC.
> 
> Contrast better too obviously.
> 
> I would descrive the JVC as more "film like" looking.
> 
> No settings or messing with gama could get me something on the JVC that would be the equivalent of how the Epson looks on Bright Cinema. I think have a very large screen (158 inch 2:35:1) plays a big role here.
> 
> The image just pops more to me with the Epson, and the blacks/contrast are good enough for me.
> 
> Some see the screen door effect at times on the Epson, I don't see it so I don't care about that.
> 
> I just always felt that the JVC was too dark. I have also had a professionally calibrated rs500 in my room and I thought that was too dark too. To be fair, I think the 5040 calibrated is too dark too.
> 
> I just bought a oem replacement bulb from B&H Photo for 218 shipped, JVC bulbs are a lot more expensive.


+1

It appears you and I have similar tastes and preference relative to PQ.


----------



## carp

gene4ht said:


> +1
> 
> It appears you and I have similar tastes and preference relative to PQ.



Epson Bright Cinema FTW!!


----------



## wowyahoo

Hello, I recently bought a 5040ub. I currently have Onkyo 809, so not 4k compatible.

I'm on the prowl for a UHD player and streaming device. I need a player with two HDMI outs, due to the older receiver.

I've read through a lot of the forum, but with firmware updates, it's hard to keep track. What is the best 4k blu ray and streaming device? I would like to stream Netflix in 4k and HDR, but from what I read, it appears only Apple 4k can do that...is this still true? In my price range the Sony x700 looks like the best option. Any suggestion? Thanks.


----------



## CinemaNEWB

Dave harper

The cables are not directional and it's just the blu-ray player to projector via hdmi. 

I'm at a loss here.


----------



## CinemaNEWB

Ok some how this morning the hdmi cable I ran in the attic worked for a sec then the image starts blinking, then gets blurry for a sec and re focuses. Does that over and over. The projector is also making a slight "groaning" sound when the screen flickers and refocused. I have a video of it doing this but can't post it. This is so frustratimg!


----------



## kezug

I have a PT-AX200U projector since 2008 (on 2nd bulb) and I am due for an upgrade. I have a controlled room that I can be very dark for movies or with lights on for family/sports viewing and gaming. I love my PT-AX200U and it served me well. 

I have not been following projectors and feel overwhelmed by the latest and was wondering if this projector would be a good fit for me and my room setup (see signature) and would be a great update to what I have now.

Since my PT-AX200U is only 720P, I am looking for sharp 1080P and I dont really care for 3D, but would enjoy 4K (it is NOT a must for me to have 4K esp as I dont have any 4K source/players yet...)

So, is this projector bright for lights on? Is it sharp? And if I have 4K source is it good/better than good (I dont need it to be superior)

If this projector is not what I should look at, then can someone suggest another make/model for me to research.

Thanks


----------



## chinafbi

kezug said:


> I have a PT-AX200U projector since 2008 (on 2nd bulb) and I am due for an upgrade. I have a controlled room that I can be very dark for movies or with lights on for family/sports viewing and gaming. I love my PT-AX200U and it served me well.
> 
> 
> 
> I have not been following projectors and feel overwhelmed by the latest and was wondering if this projector would be a good fit for me and my room setup (see signature) and would be a great update to what I have now.
> 
> 
> 
> Since my PT-AX200U is only 720P, I am looking for sharp 1080P and I dont really care for 3D, but would enjoy 4K (it is NOT a must for me to have 4K esp as I dont have any 4K source/players yet...)
> 
> 
> 
> So, is this projector bright for lights on? Is it sharp? And if I have 4K source is it good/better than good (I dont need it to be superior)
> 
> 
> 
> If this projector is not what I should look at, then can someone suggest another make/model for me to research.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I have this projector, 1080p is very sharp. 4k with hdr is sharper and much better color. For movie watching,. All lights must be off because most movies are very dark. For tv show, sports, you can have some lights on. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jbarteli

Anyone experience with MADVR in combo with the 5040ub? With madvr tone mapping what settings do you set your epson? And what is the max nits for the epson? Thank you!


----------



## Redskin

Sorry, wrong forum


----------



## RadiantHT

carp said:


> Epson Bright Cinema FTW!!


I agree. Though my JVC RS400 had superior picture quality over my Epson 5040. The Epson 5040 looked like a plasma during the day on my 120" Black Diamond screen. The JVC looked dim and washed out during the day on the same Black Diamond screen and only came to life at night with all the lights off. I got so many more compliments when running the Epson in Bright Cinema mode plus Black Diamond combo. The blacks were good enough and the image was bright and vibrant during all times of the day and evening.


----------



## nonstopdoc1

carp said:


> I have had the 5040 for 2.5 years. A little over a year ago I bought a JVC RS600. It was cosmetically damaged in shipping, but the seller said I could try it out before sending it back. I ended up not wanting a replaced or repaired unit. UPS paid for the repair and I stuck with the 5040.
> 
> 
> JVC takes FOREVER to switch inputs, Epson much faster.
> 
> Motion looks better to me on Epson.
> 
> Blacks better on JVC.
> 
> Contrast better too obviously.
> 
> I would descrive the JVC as more "film like" looking.
> 
> No settings or messing with gama could get me something on the JVC that would be the equivalent of how the Epson looks on Bright Cinema. I think have a very large screen (158 inch 2:35:1) plays a big role here.
> 
> The image just pops more to me with the Epson, and the blacks/contrast are good enough for me.
> 
> Some see the screen door effect at times on the Epson, I don't see it so I don't care about that.
> 
> I just always felt that the JVC was too dark. I have also had a professionally calibrated rs500 in my room and I thought that was too dark too. To be fair, I think the 5040 calibrated is too dark too.
> 
> I just bought a oem replacement bulb from B&H Photo for 218 shipped, JVC bulbs are a lot more expensive.





gene4ht said:


> +1
> 
> It appears you and I have similar tastes and preference relative to PQ.


I am thinking on the same lines. I got a RS540 couple of months ago. I was planning to buy the RS2000 but it got delayed hence ended up buying a RS540 at a decent price with goal of eventually upgrading to RS2000. Now I am double minded. The picture does look great in most situations. My HT is light controlled but the lights need to be completely off at all the times for it to look good. And than there are times when I wish the picture was maybe 10-20 % brighter for the 'pop'. I am not a videophile and not obsessed with 'blacks' but do care about the overall picture quality. I think I will get the 5040/6040 successor when it comes out and give it a test drive. Short of going th expensive route of adding a lens, IMO this is the only way I see of getting a brighter picture.


----------



## gene4ht

nonstopdoc1 said:


> I am thinking on the same lines. I got a RS540 couple of months ago. I was planning to buy the RS2000 but it got delayed hence ended up buying a RS540 at a decent price with goal of eventually upgrading to RS2000. Now I am double minded. The picture does look great in most situations. My HT is light controlled but the lights need to be completely off at all the times for it to look good. And than there are times when I wish the picture was maybe 10-20 % brighter for the 'pop'. I am not a videophile and not obsessed with 'blacks' but do care about the overall picture quality. I think I will get the 5040/6040 successor when it comes out and give it a test drive. Short of going th expensive route of adding a lens, IMO this is the only way I see of getting a brighter picture.


I have no objection to those who covet "blacks"...I'm just not one of them. I do however, covet "brightness." Full disclosure, I've never owned a JVC, but have owned maybe 6 PJ's over the last 18 years and as long as blacks contributed to overall good contrast, brightness has always been king for me. I have, however, seen JVC's at other's homes and also found them a bit "dim" for my taste unless in a complete bat cave. I've owned the 5040 for slightly over two years now and still have the same high regard for its image quality (blacks, contrast, color fidelity, sharpness, and "pop") as I did on day 1. My HT is completely light controlled but family and guest viewing almost always demand some small degree of ambient/indirect lighting...with little overall ill effects to PQ. To date, everyone has complimented the PQ even under some ambient light conditions! I'm completely happy and satisfied with the 5040's performance.


----------



## BRADH

I have been enjoying my 6040 for the last 1 1/2 with no problems. Now I have a grey line running from just left of center top to bottom. I have turned off all sources it’s and it’s still there. Plus there’s a grey circle on the right side dead center and one starting in the center. 
I have seen others with the pink and green line not for sure if anyone else has had this problem. 
Thanks in advance. 
Brad









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## roland6465

BRADH said:


> I have been enjoying my 6040 for the last 1 1/2 with no problems. Now I have a grey line running from just left of center top to bottom. I have turned off all sources it’s and it’s still there. Plus there’s a grey circle on the right side dead center and one starting in the center.
> I have seen others with the pink and green line not for sure if anyone else has had this problem.
> Thanks in advance.
> Brad
> View attachment 2530216
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



The grey circle is a dust blob. I don't know about the line, but since you have the 6040, you're still under warranty. Start a ticket and cross your fingers... you're about to play Refurb Roulette... good luck!


----------



## BRADH

roland6465 said:


> The grey circle is a dust blob. I don't know about the line, but since you have the 6040, you're still under warranty. Start a ticket and cross your fingers... you're about to play Refurb Roulette... good luck!




Thanks and that’s what I was afraid of. I’ve read the horror stories of the refurb roulette. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## dvdwilly3

I own the Epson 6040UB so I am putting this post here. I am not sure where else to put it.
My home theater is about 12 years old now, and I have made a series of changes to it, to either upgrade it in some fashion or correct an existing problem. This post is about a persistent problem that plagued me from the beginning.
My theater is roughly 15' by 20'. I have a 92" Stewart Firehawk screen on the front wall, and about 14' toward the rear wall have a ceiling mounted 6040. I previously had a Sony projector.
The projectors have been fed by 39' Monster Cable in the ceiling going from the Denon to the projector. 

I knew that it was an issue from the beginning, but it was the only cost-effective alternative at the time. The HDMI signal has been problematic from the beginning, but I have been able to make changes that generally addressed video and/or audio dropouts.
I more or less got away with it until I got a Panasonic feeding 4K to the projector. I began to have repeating periodic video dropouts...which annoyed the crap out of me. I do not care that it is only 2 or 3 seconds. If I am watching a movie, I do not want it interrupted unless I want it interrupted.
So, I jumped off and bought an active fiber optic HDMI from Amazon. It was pricier (~$160 for 50') than copper HDMI, but if it solved the problem, it would be worth it.
I did not try running it through the ceiling for several reasons. It is fairly thin and I run it thru raceway along the base molding. It is not really noticeable. I ran it along the baseboard, drilled a hole into the baseboard, ran it up behind the side wall, drilled a hole at the top of the side wall and ceiling, and pulled it to the projector.
Dropouts solved...none, nada, zip, beautiful picture. Granted, it is an active cable, meaning that there is hardware at the source and display end respectively. I am okay with that. The cable has a 6-year warranty. If it dies in year 6, it will have been worth $30 per year for a perfect picture and perfect sound.
This is an issue that I have struggled with for years, and I am very, very happy to have it resolved. If my experience helps someone else, then that is a good thing.  And, yes, I am sticking with disks.


----------



## Jase25

Has anyone used the Chief "speed connect" fixed extension? 

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/462568-REG/Chief_CMS006_CMS_006_6_inch_Speed_Connect_Fixed.html

I mounted my 5040UB flush to the ceiling with the Chief mount but, it was never perfectly aligned with my screen. I decided to take it down and use an extension so I could get to the adjustments on the mount easier. 

Does the extension just screw directly into the Chief mount? There is a hole in the mount but, it's not threaded. Once screwed in, what keeps it from rotating? Is there a locking nut?


----------



## jmeitz

dvdwilly3 said:


> I own the Epson 6040UB so I am putting this post here. I am not sure where else to put it.
> My home theater is about 12 years old now, and I have made a series of changes to it, to either upgrade it in some fashion or correct an existing problem. This post is about a persistent problem that plagued me from the beginning.
> My theater is roughly 15' by 20'. I have a 92" Stewart Firehawk screen on the front wall, and about 14' toward the rear wall have a ceiling mounted 6040. I previously had a Sony projector.
> The projectors have been fed by 39' Monster Cable in the ceiling going from the Denon to the projector.
> 
> I knew that it was an issue from the beginning, but it was the only cost-effective alternative at the time. The HDMI signal has been problematic from the beginning, but I have been able to make changes that generally addressed video and/or audio dropouts.
> I more or less got away with it until I got a Panasonic feeding 4K to the projector. I began to have repeating periodic video dropouts...which annoyed the crap out of me. I do not care that it is only 2 or 3 seconds. If I am watching a movie, I do not want it interrupted unless I want it interrupted.
> So, I jumped off and bought an active fiber optic HDMI from Amazon. It was pricier (~$160 for 50') than copper HDMI, but if it solved the problem, it would be worth it.
> I did not try running it through the ceiling for several reasons. It is fairly thin and I run it thru raceway along the base molding. It is not really noticeable. I ran it along the baseboard, drilled a hole into the baseboard, ran it up behind the side wall, drilled a hole at the top of the side wall and ceiling, and pulled it to the projector.
> Dropouts solved...none, nada, zip, beautiful picture. Granted, it is an active cable, meaning that there is hardware at the source and display end respectively. I am okay with that. The cable has a 6-year warranty. If it dies in year 6, it will have been worth $30 per year for a perfect picture and perfect sound.
> This is an issue that I have struggled with for years, and I am very, very happy to have it resolved. If my experience helps someone else, then that is a good thing. /forum/images/smilies/cool.gif And, yes, I am sticking with disks.


Which cable, I bought a 10m ICE clear cable that says certified 18gbs, 4k/60 4:4:4 and I am getting occasional white flicker. Not always, but only does it from my 820.


----------



## dvdwilly3

jmeitz said:


> Which cable, I bought a 10m ICE clear cable that says certified 18gbs, 4k/60 4:4:4 and I am getting occasional white flicker. Not always, but only does it from my 820.


HFPRO-50Feet Furui

Whichever brand that you use, keep in mind that it is designed to go one direction only. Hooked up in reverse I would be surprised if it would work at all.

With this one, it renders a beautiful picture and flawless sound...Amazon...


----------



## sddp

Direct TV vs Hulu specs

So my contract with DirecTV is up this week (PHEW what a headache they are, sheesh)

Anyways I don't watch much tv on in the theater room on my 5040UBE. But My main 2 shows are the Superbowl and the Oscars. And not worth having cable for that. Recently found out that HULU has live local streaming with no contract, so I can literally sign up only for all of February each year. So I started their 1 week trail and was going back and forth every 20 minutes or so while watching the Oscars yesterday between DirecTV and HULU and did notice some BIG differences.

BTW I was using HULU with my XBOX ONE X
Running the Projector info:
both were 3840 x 2160 Progressive and BT. 709 SDR

DirecTV Refresh rate : 29.96Hz
Color Depth 8 bit :4:4:4


HULU refresh rate 59.93Hz
Color Depth 8 bit :4:2:0


The was as HUGE difference in picture quality, HULU was much sharper and clearer as I am watching this on a 150". DireceTV was HORRIBLE. Too much pixelization and jagged edges and made it unwatchable compared to HULU
I did unplug and reset DirecTV and that didn't change or help any.

There caveat is, Directv audio was WAY better, louder, more bass (by far!) as I am running a 9.3.4 Dolby ATMOS. Every time I switched back to HULU, I had to turn the volume up by 6 db or more and there as hardly any bass.


----------



## Javatime

kezug said:


> I have a PT-AX200U projector since 2008 (on 2nd bulb) and I am due for an upgrade. I have a controlled room that I can be very dark for movies or with lights on for family/sports viewing and gaming. I love my PT-AX200U and it served me well.
> 
> I have not been following projectors and feel overwhelmed by the latest and was wondering if this projector would be a good fit for me and my room setup (see signature) and would be a great update to what I have now.
> 
> Since my PT-AX200U is only 720P, I am looking for sharp 1080P and I dont really care for 3D, but would enjoy 4K (it is NOT a must for me to have 4K esp as I dont have any 4K source/players yet...)
> 
> So, is this projector bright for lights on? Is it sharp? And if I have 4K source is it good/better than good (I dont need it to be superior)
> 
> If this projector is not what I should look at, then can someone suggest another make/model for me to research.
> 
> Thanks


Hey Doug,
Long time no hear from. Let me know what you decide. My AX200U is still going strong too and on the second bulb. PJs have grown up quite a bit since we purchased ours back in 2008!


----------



## gene4ht

kezug said:


> I have a PT-AX200U projector since 2008 (on 2nd bulb) and I am due for an upgrade. I have a controlled room that I can be very dark for movies or with lights on for family/sports viewing and gaming. I love my PT-AX200U and it served me well.
> 
> I have not been following projectors and feel overwhelmed by the latest and was wondering if this projector would be a good fit for me and my room setup (see signature) and would be a great update to what I have now.
> 
> Since my PT-AX200U is only 720P, I am looking for sharp 1080P and I dont really care for 3D, but would enjoy 4K (it is NOT a must for me to have 4K esp as I dont have any 4K source/players yet...)
> 
> *So, is this projector bright for lights on? Is it sharp? And if I have 4K source is it good/better than good (I dont need it to be superior)
> *
> If this projector is not what I should look at, then can someone suggest another make/model for me to research.
> 
> Thanks





Javatime said:


> Hey Doug,
> Long time no hear from. Let me know what you decide. My AX200U is still going strong too and on the second bulb. PJs have grown up quite a bit since we purchased ours back in 2008!


I upgraded from a PT-AE3000 two years ago...outstanding PQ out of the box...the answer is yes to all your questions...bright and sharp....excellent SDR...HDR requires some tweaking but all current PJ's do...the 5040 will be a major upgrade...you won’t be disappointed...and a bargain at the current $2000 price...see my recent post above.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-569.html#post57649568


----------



## Dave Harper

sddp said:


> Direct TV vs Hulu specs
> 
> 
> 
> So my contract with DirecTV is up this week (PHEW what a headache they are, sheesh)
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways I don't watch much tv on in the theater room on my 5040UBE. But My main 2 shows are the Superbowl and the Oscars. And not worth having cable for that. Recently found out that HULU has live local streaming with no contract, so I can literally sign up only for all of February each year. So I started their 1 week trail and was going back and forth every 20 minutes or so while watching the Oscars yesterday between DirecTV and HULU and did notice some BIG differences.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW I was using HULU with my XBOX ONE X
> 
> Running the Projector info:
> 
> both were 3840 x 2160 Progressive and BT. 709 SDR
> 
> 
> 
> DirecTV Refresh rate : 29.96Hz
> 
> Color Depth 8 bit :4:4:4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HULU refresh rate 59.93Hz
> 
> Color Depth 8 bit :4:2:0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The was as HUGE difference in picture quality, HULU was much sharper and clearer as I am watching this on a 150". DireceTV was HORRIBLE. Too much pixelization and jagged edges and made it unwatchable compared to HULU
> 
> I did unplug and reset DirecTV and that didn't change or help any.
> 
> 
> 
> There caveat is, Directv audio was WAY better, louder, more bass (by far!) as I am running a 9.3.4 Dolby ATMOS. Every time I switched back to HULU, I had to turn the volume up by 6 db or more and there as hardly any bass.



Sounds like you’re seeing what I do here. The local channels that are beamed to DirecTV aren’t very good in your case either. But I think a more fair test would be to compare a cable type channel that is coming in from their main satellite feed and rebroadcast to you, like ESPN or even NFL Network. When I compare those, my DTV wins. I am comparing PS Vue though but what I am saying is a valid test to do to avoid bad local channel transmission which is usually the fault of the local network giving DTV a less than optimal feed. Their prime core channels are much better quality.


----------



## Ken Stanger

Anyone using the i1 Profiler Pro with their epson 5040ub and HCFR calibration software? If so, where does your contrast end up being? I'm starting out in Natural mode on a Silver Ticket screen in complete dark room. Mine is at 0. Keeping in mind this is first round of attempts and learning HCFR.


----------



## BRADH

BRADH said:


> Thanks and that’s what I was afraid of. I’ve read the horror stories of the refurb roulette.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Ok The exchange went well and fast. Called Monday had the replacement Tuesday. The refurb unit doesn't have any problems. 

But as I was setting it up I noticed in the advance menu there is no Lens Iris. I called Epson they said try a reset. They asked me what firmware I had. I'am not at home so going off memory I believe it said 113/111.

So my question is has anyone seen this before? I'am guessing I will be sending this one back.

Thanks in advance.
Brad


----------



## BRADH

Here’s the firmware.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## BRADH

Here is where the Lens Iris is missing. Any ideas?









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## BRADH

I just down graded the firmware to 111 112 still the same no Lens Iris. 
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks in advance. 
Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## roland6465

BRADH said:


> I just down graded the firmware to 111 112 still the same no Lens Iris.
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> Brad
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



Call Epson again. Make them send you Refurb #2 . Cross fingers.


----------



## BRADH

roland6465 said:


> Call Epson again. Make them send you Refurb [URL=https://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2]#2 [/URL] . Cross fingers.




Refrub #2 will be here tomorrow. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## jidelite

Been away for a while and trying to catchup on things (forgot how to post)...Anyone using a Silver Ticket High Contrast (120) screen with a 5040ub? I have a dark, light controlled dedicated room - relatively speaking, I'm trying to get the best blacks that I can.


jidelite


----------



## BRADH

BRADH said:


> Refrub #2 will be here tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




Refurb 2 is good everything is there this time. The firmware that is installed on it is 113. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## nielvm

A few more thoughts about calibrating hdr on this projector.

With harpervision in place the picture pops the most, which is really beautiful in some movies/scenes. This result is only achievable with harpervision. I do have an issue that this setting doesn't seem to work in every movie, and even within a movie one bright scene can look amazing and another scene doesn't look right. Dark scenes tend to look too red. This doesn't seem to be related to greyscale, but rather color luminance, which you can't calibrate from dark to bright.

I did a new calibration using digital cinema with hdr1 and gamma on +2. This seems to be a good general setting which looks natural with every movie. The pop in the image is a lot less, of course, than with harpervision. 
In hdr1 modus, the blacks tend to crush a little. A possible solution for this is to put hdmi range to extended and correcting brightness to about 40 and contrast to about 58. This method requires to adjust this setting when switching to sdr, though... Unless you calibrate sdr in the same way


----------



## WildThing

nielvm said:


> A few more thoughts about calibrating hdr on this projector.
> 
> With harpervision in place the picture pops the most, which is really beautiful in some movies/scenes. This result is only achievable with harpervision. I do have an issue that this setting doesn't seem to work in every movie, and even within a movie one bright scene can look amazing and another scene doesn't look right. Dark scenes tend to look too red. This doesn't seem to be related to greyscale, but rather color luminance, which you can't calibrate from dark to bright.
> 
> I did a new calibration using digital cinema with hdr1 and gamma on +2. This seems to be a good general setting which looks natural with every movie. The pop in the image is a lot less, of course, than with harpervision.
> In hdr1 modus, the blacks tend to crush a little. A possible solution for this is to put hdmi range to extended and correcting brightness to about 40 and contrast to about 58. This method requires to adjust this setting when switching to sdr, though... Unless you calibrate sdr in the same way


I was never able to achieve a picture that pops with Harpervision when compared to Odelurt settings. I've tried many other settings but I always come back with Odelurt Bright Cinema settings.


----------



## tom0

Owner of a brand new 5040UB here. Where do I find when my unit was manufactured?



> Your warranty details are as follows:
> 
> Serial Number: (redacted)
> Warranty Status: In Warranty
> Warranty Expiration: 3/7/21


Warranty verification shows my warranty expires in more than 2 years. If the warranty is only 2 years, and I purchased it more than a month ago, why would this be?


----------



## Kevin12586

The bulb on my Panasonic PT-AE2000U died this weekend so I just ordered this Epson, should receive it on Wednesday. Looking forward to the upgrade based on everything I have read.

Thanks you you all I already have a few calibration settings to try out and tweak for my room.


----------



## gene4ht

Kevin12586 said:


> The bulb on my Panasonic PT-AE2000U died this weekend so I just ordered this Epson, should receive it on Wednesday. Looking forward to the upgrade based on everything I have read.
> 
> Thanks you you all I already have a few calibration settings to try out and tweak for my room.


Congrats...you won't be disappointed! I upgraded from the PT-AE3000U...you'll first be amazed at the improvement in brightness and sharpness...enjoy!


----------



## Alex512

Hi, I was hoping someone can help me with my problem. I did a search on this but couldn’t find anything related. I’ve had my 5040 for about a month now and it’s been working great with my Apple TV and fire tv, both of witch are linked to the projector. Over the weekend I picked up an Xbox One X and just like the 360 it replaced, the projector doesn’t recognize that it’s displaying an image and shuts itself off after 30. I have to turn off auto off for the Xbox and back on for the Apple TV/Fire tv. Is there a way to link the Xbox or to get to work like the other two devices?
Thanks


----------



## tom0

Alex512 said:


> Hi, I was hoping someone can help me with my problem. I did a search on this but couldn’t find anything related. I’ve had my 5040 for about a month now and it’s been working great with my Apple TV and fire tv, both of witch are linked to the projector. Over the weekend I picked up an Xbox One X and just like the 360 it replaced, the projector doesn’t recognize that it’s displaying an image and shuts itself off after 30. I have to turn off auto off for the Xbox and back on for the Apple TV/Fire tv. Is there a way to link the Xbox or to get to work like the other two devices?
> Thanks


Are you using the same HDMI cable which works for your Apple TV and Fire TV? Does this also happen when you use the other HDMI port on the projector?


----------



## RedPills4All

Could someone please help with the UBP-X700 or X800 settings they are using? I'm still new to 4k HDR, so I want to make sure I'm using the right settings for the 5040UB. For the audio, I have an 11 channel Atmos system with a Denon x6400h. Here are the settings I'm not sure of:

*Picture Quality Mode*: Direct, Brighter Room, Theater Room, Auto
*24p Output*: Auto, 1080p, 4K 
*Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM*: Auto, On, Off 
*4K Upscale Setting*: Auto, Auto2, Off 
*YCbCr/RGB (HDMI)*: Auto, YbCr (4:2:2), YbCr (4:4:4), RGB
*HDMI Deep Color*: Auto, Off 
*Screen Format*: Full, Normal 
*Cinema Conversion Mode*: Auto, Video 
*Digital Audio Output*: Auto, PCM
*BD Secondary Audio*: On, Off 
*48kHz/96kHz/192kHz PCM*: 48, 96, 192 
*Audio DRC*: Auto, On, Off 
*Downmix*: Surround, Stereo 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Alex512

tom0 said:


> Are you using the same HDMI cable which works for your Apple TV and Fire TV? Does this also happen when you use the other HDMI port on the projector?


Yes. Same hdmi cable being switched by my pioneer receiver for all three devices. I haven’t tried the other hdmi port. I think that port doesn’t except HDCP 2.2 and the auto off works on the port I’m in for both the other devices.


----------



## tom0

Alex512 said:


> Yes. Same hdmi cable being switched by my pioneer receiver for all three devices. I haven’t tried the other hdmi port. I think that port doesn’t except HDCP 2.2 and the auto off works on the port I’m in for both the other devices.


Is image from your Xbox actually being displayed, and auto-off is the only issue you have? Or are you not seeing anything displayed at all?


----------



## welldun

scottjwoodford said:


> Could someone please help with the UBP-X700 or X800 settings they are using? I'm still new to 4k HDR, so I want to make sure I'm using the right settings for the 5040UB. For the audio, I have an 11 channel Atmos system with a Denon x6400h. Here are the settings I'm not sure of:
> 
> *Picture Quality Mode*: Direct, Brighter Room, Theater Room, Auto
> *24p Output*: Auto, 1080p, 4K
> *Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM*: Auto, On, Off
> *4K Upscale Setting*: Auto, Auto2, Off
> *YCbCr/RGB (HDMI)*: Auto, YbCr (4:2:2), YbCr (4:4:4), RGB
> *HDMI Deep Color*: Auto, Off
> *Screen Format*: Full, Normal
> *Cinema Conversion Mode*: Auto, Video
> *Digital Audio Output*: Auto, PCM
> *BD Secondary Audio*: On, Off
> *48kHz/96kHz/192kHz PCM*: 48, 96, 192
> *Audio DRC*: Auto, On, Off
> *Downmix*: Surround, Stereo
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Here are my settings on my UBP-X800, but keep in mind that I have a light controlled (Dark ) room, so my settings might not apply if your room is different.

Picture Quality Mode: Direct, Brighter Room, Theater Room, Auto
24p Output: Auto
Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM: Auto, On, Off 
4K Upscale Setting: Auto2
YCbCr/RGB (HDMI): Auto
HDMI Deep Color: Auto
Screen Format: Normal 
Cinema Conversion Mode: Auto
Digital Audio Output: Auto
BD Secondary Audio: Off 
48kHz/96kHz/192kHz PCM: 96
Audio DRC: Auto
Downmix: Surround


----------



## RedPills4All

welldun said:


> Here are my settings on my UBP-X800, but keep in mind that I have a light controlled (Dark ) room, so my settings might not apply if your room is different.
> 
> Picture Quality Mode: Direct, Brighter Room, Theater Room, Auto
> 24p Output: Auto
> Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM: Auto, On, Off
> 4K Upscale Setting: Auto2
> YCbCr/RGB (HDMI): Auto
> HDMI Deep Color: Auto
> Screen Format: Normal
> Cinema Conversion Mode: Auto
> Digital Audio Output: Auto
> BD Secondary Audio: Off
> 48kHz/96kHz/192kHz PCM: 96
> Audio DRC: Auto
> Downmix: Surround


Awesome thanks. So basically everything set to Auto for the most part. That's kind of what I was thinking.

Can you clarify the 2 settings below?

Picture Quality Mode: Direct, Brighter Room, Theater Room, Auto
Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM: Auto, On, Off 

Also I should have mentioned I'm in a light controlled dedicated HT. Thanks again.


----------



## welldun

scottjwoodford said:


> Awesome thanks. So basically everything set to Auto for the most part. That's kind of what I was thinking.
> 
> Can you clarify the 2 settings below?
> 
> Picture Quality Mode: Direct, Brighter Room, Theater Room, Auto
> Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM: Auto, On, Off
> 
> Also I should have mentioned I'm in a light controlled dedicated HT. Thanks again.


oops forgot to check those, here you go:

Picture Quality Mode: Direct
Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM: Auto

Since you have an Atmos setup, the key settings are these two:
Digital Audio Output: Auto
BD Secondary Audio: Off 

Atmos requires a Bitstream signal and for the secondary audio to be off.


----------



## Kevin12586

gene4ht said:


> Congrats...you won't be disappointed! I upgraded from the PT-AE3000U...you'll first be amazed at the improvement in brightness and sharpness...enjoy!


Yeah can't wait


----------



## RedPills4All

welldun said:


> oops forgot to check those, here you go:
> 
> Picture Quality Mode: Direct
> Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM: Auto
> 
> Since you have an Atmos setup, the key settings are these two:
> Digital Audio Output: Auto
> BD Secondary Audio: Off
> 
> Atmos requires a Bitstream signal and for the secondary audio to be off.


I really appreciate this!


----------



## Alex512

tom0 said:


> Is image from your Xbox actually being displayed, and auto-off is the only issue you have? Or are you not seeing anything displayed at all?


Auto off is the only issue and it’s as though the projector is not see the Xbox while in use and powers down after 30 minutes.


----------



## RedPills4All

welldun said:


> oops forgot to check those, here you go:
> 
> Picture Quality Mode: Direct
> Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM: Auto
> 
> Since you have an Atmos setup, the key settings are these two:
> Digital Audio Output: Auto
> BD Secondary Audio: Off
> 
> Atmos requires a Bitstream signal and for the secondary audio to be off.


One last question, what do you do for the Dolby Vision setting? I have it set to Off. From what I understand this projector can't do Dolby Vision, correct?


----------



## tlogan6797

Kevin12586 said:


> The bulb on my Panasonic PT-AE2000U died this weekend so I just ordered this Epson, should receive it on Wednesday. Looking forward to the upgrade based on everything I have read.
> 
> Thanks you you all I already have a few calibration settings to try out and tweak for my room.


 a 

I upgraded from a Panny 4000 and was amazed, so you should be too! And I haven't even tried tweaking it yet. Just be aware that if you were using the Panny dialed in for Constant Image Height (meaning you have a 2:35 widescreen, not a 16:9 screen) that contrary to what they SAY, the Epson is Constant Image WIDTH and it DOES NOT auto switch the lens settings like the Panny did.


----------



## welldun

scottjwoodford said:


> One last question, what do you do for the Dolby Vision setting? I have it set to Off. From what I understand this projector can't do Dolby Vision, correct?


Correct, no Dolby Vision on this Projector. In fact my X800 doesn't have a setting for that either. I think it's safe to say that most of us here who own this projector are perfectly fine with the HDR-10 that the projector does accept. There are quite a few suggested HRD settings in this thread that you can try out if you don't calibrate the projector yourself. 

Good luck with it all. One piece of advice I would give you, is for you to just enjoy the projector and you're setup as is, and only if you find that something is not looking as good as you think it should, should then you go down the rabbit hole of tweaking all the settings.


----------



## RedPills4All

welldun said:


> Correct, no Dolby Vision on this Projector. In fact my X800 doesn't have a setting for that either. I think it's safe to say that most of us here who own this projector are perfectly fine with the HDR-10 that the projector does accept. There are quite a few suggested HRD settings in this thread that you can try out if you don't calibrate the projector yourself.
> 
> Good luck with it all. One piece of advice I would give you, is for you to just enjoy the projector and you're setup as is, and only if you find that something is not looking as good as you think it should, should then you go down the rabbit hole of tweaking all the settings.


Ok sounds good. And that is great advice, I totally agree. It's very easy to get QUICKLY out of control trying to tweak everything.

Speaking of trying to let things be, I'm thinking of turning off pretty much all video settings on my AVR-x6400h per things I've read on the forum. Basically just trying to pass the signal as is. Do you agree? Here are the settings I've chosen on that. Please let me know what you think:

*Picture Mode*: Standard, Movie, Vivid, Streaming, ISF Day, ISF Night, Custom, *Off* 
*Video Mode*: *Auto*, Game, Movie 
*Video Conversion*: On, *Off* 
*i/p Scaler*: Analog, Analog & HDMI, HDMI, *Off* 
*Resolution*: *Auto*, 480p, 576p, 1080i, 720p, 1080p, 1080p:24Hz, 4K, 4K (60/50)
*Progressive Mode*: *Auto*, Video, Video and Film 
*4K Signal Format*: Standard, *Enhanced*

That last one is the one I'm not super confident about. It says "Select if your TV, playback devices, and cables support high quality 4K 60p 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4K 60p 4:2:0 10 bit video signals." Not sure what to choose. I'm pretty sure the 5040ub doesn't support those modes @4K 60p?


----------



## welldun

scottjwoodford said:


> Ok sounds good. And that is great advice, I totally agree. It's very easy to get QUICKLY out of control trying to tweak everything.
> 
> Speaking of trying to let things be, I'm thinking of turning off pretty much all video settings on my AVR-x6400h per things I've read on the forum. Basically just trying to pass the signal as is. Do you agree? Here are the settings I've chosen on that. Please let me know what you think:
> 
> *Picture Mode*: Standard, Movie, Vivid, Streaming, ISF Day, ISF Night, Custom, *Off*
> *Video Mode*: *Auto*, Game, Movie
> *Video Conversion*: On, *Off*
> *i/p Scaler*: Analog, Analog & HDMI, HDMI, *Off*
> *Resolution*: *Auto*, 480p, 576p, 1080i, 720p, 1080p, 1080p:24Hz, 4K, 4K (60/50)
> *Progressive Mode*: *Auto*, Video, Video and Film
> *4K Signal Format*: Standard, *Enhanced*
> 
> That last one is the one I'm not super confident about. It says "Select if your TV, playback devices, and cables support high quality 4K 60p 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4K 60p 4:2:0 10 bit video signals." Not sure what to choose. I'm pretty sure the 5040ub doesn't support those modes @4K 60p?


 Personally, I try to let the AVR do what it does best which is reproduce sound, and everything else that's related to video, I let the projector handle it. So for the most part, my AVR (Pioneer SC-99) is set to bypass everything that deals with the video signal. I'm not sure how bypass is selected on your denon, but if you have an option to turn off any sort of video processing, then just turn it off and allow the signal from your source (be it the Blu-Ray player or anything else), to go through the AVR unfiltered. That will allow for the projector to receive the signal as you intended to send it from the source, and now the projector will do what it needs to do to give you the best picture. 

In my opinion, if you allow each device to do what it does best, any time there is a problem with any feature, it becomes easier to figure out which device to adress first. If instead, you choose to use every processor available along the path, then you will have to troubleshoot each one of those because you won't know exactly which one is causing the problem. That's not to say that the AVR even in bypass mode couldn't create a problem, it's just me saying that by not allowing it to add pprocesing, you are also not introducing a potential problem.


----------



## RedPills4All

welldun said:


> Personally, I try to let the AVR do what it does best which is reproduce sound, and everything else that's related to video, I let the projector handle it. So for the most part, my AVR (Pioneer SC-99) is set to bypass everything that deals with the video signal. I'm not sure how bypass is selected on your denon, but if you have an option to turn off any sort of video processing, then just turn it off and allow the signal from your source (be it the Blu-Ray player or anything else), to go through the AVR unfiltered. That will allow for the projector to receive the signal as you intended to send it from the source, and now the projector will do what it needs to do to give you the best picture.
> 
> In my opinion, if you allow each device to do what it does best, any time there is a problem with any feature, it becomes easier to figure out which device to adress first. If instead, you choose to use every processor available along the path, then you will have to troubleshoot each one of those because you won't know exactly which one is causing the problem. That's not to say that the AVR even in bypass mode couldn't create a problem, it's just me saying that by not allowing it to add pprocesing, you are also not introducing a potential problem.


Great advice once again. Your logic makes total sense to me. I think I will stick with that route. Turn all processing off on the AVR.

What about the 4K Signal setting, standard vs. enhanced? Should I set to enhanced?


----------



## welldun

scottjwoodford said:


> Great advice once again. Your logic makes total sense to me. I think I will stick with that route. Turn all processing off on the AVR.
> 
> What about the 4K Signal setting, standard vs. enhanced? Should I set to enhanced?


Based on the info found at this link:
http://manuals.denon.com/AVRS730H/NA/EN/RQIFSYsvvlcemq.php
It seems like Enhanced would check all of the boxes for your setup. Agian, my AVR is a different make and model, so I don't have any personal experience with what that feature does. However, per that link, the enhanced setting seems to allow more signal options between your sources and the projector.


----------



## RedPills4All

welldun said:


> Based on the info found at this link:
> http://manuals.denon.com/AVRS730H/NA/EN/RQIFSYsvvlcemq.php
> It seems like Enhanced would check all of the boxes for your setup. Agian, my AVR is a different make and model, so I don't have any personal experience with what that feature does. However, per that link, the enhanced setting seems to allow more signal options between your sources and the projector.


Yea it looks like from Epson's Chart too (ref: https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H713020~faq-0000530-plhc5040ub?faq_cat=faq-topFaqs that he only HDR mode supported is 4k/24p, which I'll get with either Enhanced and Standard. But that it can do all the other modes on SDR. I'll set to enhanced and I'll get the best I can get for whatever the input is.

Btw, are there particular settings you or anyone else on here are using for SDR? Was going to try some I found (I believe they are neilvm). Last night when I viewed cable tv it was TERRIBLE. Very pixelated, jittery, lots of noise etc.


----------



## RedPills4All

*What settings for SDR?*

So I finally got around to messing with the SDR settings nielvm was gracious enough to provide me. They are MUCH better than the out of the box defaults. That said, I'm still surprised that a 4k projector doesn't look as sharp/detailed as I was expecting. I was trying to calibrate it to GoT on HBO streaming last night. Again, the before and after are night and day. But it's still not as impressive as I was hoping for. The cable box is outputting 1080p, I made sure of that. It looks stunning upstairs on my 60" 4k tv. But it still seems dull down on the big screen. Just to give you some background, I'm in a totally dark room, on a 142" 2.35 screen. The 16x9 image is about 110".

I messed with some of the picture enhancement settings (presets, sharpness, noise reduction, etc...) but can't seem to get it to look better than _pretty good_. Do others have this same experience with cable (live tv/streaming)? Am I expecting too much? If you're getting great results for cable TV, can you please post the settings you are using? Thanks in advance for any help!


----------



## noob00224

Quick question: the 6040 does not have an anamorphic lens, just the format settings?


----------



## gene4ht

noob00224 said:


> Quick question: the 6040 does not have an anamorphic lens, just the format settings?


Correct...


----------



## welldun

scottjwoodford said:


> ...It looks stunning upstairs on my 60" 4k tv. But it still seems dull down on the big screen. Just to give you some background, I'm in a totally dark room, on a 142" 2.35 screen. The 16x9 image is about 110".
> 
> I messed with some of the picture enhancement settings (presets, sharpness, noise reduction, etc...) but can't seem to get it to look better than _pretty good_. Do others have this same experience with cable (live tv/streaming)? Am I expecting too much? If you're getting great results for cable TV, can you please post the settings you are using? Thanks in advance for any help!


The picture quality from cable tv signals (at the moment) cannot compare to that quality of 4k discs or even 4k streamed material from Netflix and other services. In this case, you may just be expecting too much. However, did you check to make sure that although the cable box signal was set to 1080p, the signal being received at the projector was also 1080p? You can check that by going into the projector's menu and checking under the info section. Also, this would be a good time to also confirm that you have the upscaling and Image Enhancement of the projector set properly. 

If you are getting good results from streaming services and discs, then it follows that the fault for a poor result from the cable box is not the projector's, but rather the signal that it is receiving from the cable provider.

if you have older formats at home, you can compare both on your TV and Projector how older VHS tapes or even DVD disc look compared to Bluray and 4k material. For the most part, the advantages and differences in quality between Bluray and 4k when compared to SD material can be really appreciated on the bigger screens.


----------



## jt7272

scottjwoodford said:


> So I finally got around to messing with the SDR settings nielvm was gracious enough to provide me. They are MUCH better than the out of the box defaults. That said, I'm still surprised that a 4k projector doesn't look as sharp/detailed as I was expecting. I was trying to calibrate it to GoT on HBO streaming last night. Again, the before and after are night and day. But it's still not as impressive as I was hoping for. The cable box is outputting 1080p, I made sure of that. It looks stunning upstairs on my 60" 4k tv. But it still seems dull down on the big screen. Just to give you some background, I'm in a totally dark room, on a 142" 2.35 screen. The 16x9 image is about 110".
> 
> I messed with some of the picture enhancement settings (presets, sharpness, noise reduction, etc...) but can't seem to get it to look better than _pretty good_. Do others have this same experience with cable (live tv/streaming)? Am I expecting too much? If you're getting great results for cable TV, can you please post the settings you are using? Thanks in advance for any help!


How are you watching GOT? Using your cable STB? If so then you're going to be disappointed when you blow it up on the big screen. The compression is typically pretty brutal when doing this. It becomes very visible on a large format screen.

I have experimented with a variety of methods to watch HBO (primarily GOT) and this is my picture quality rankings (1=best):

1. Amazon Prime streaming via Sony UBP-X800. The compression is still visible (crushed blacks - just terrible compared to even regular Blu-ray)
2. HBO Go via Playstation or PC with HDMI connection
3. HBO Go via Chromecast
4. Streaming VOD via cable STB
999. Watching live on HBO via cable STB (sooooooo much compression, regardless of provider, be it Verizon Fios, Comcast Xfinity, AT&T, etc.)

I cannot speak to the quality of DirecTV and their HBO stream but my research has shown that they are compressing it quite a bit as well. The only advantage is that DirecTV has historically used more modern compression compared to other cable providers (IDK if this is still the case).

It really is a shame that there is no option to stream at much higher quality (less compression, especially in the blacks) if your connection can handle it. I have a gigabit fiber connection and my 25MB/s "Full HD" stream is just begging to use that bigger pipe.

EDIT: To get more to the point, using Amazon Prime streaming via a high quality player will look as good as you can get. On a calibrated 5040/6040 most scenes will look absolutely awesome. Dark scenes will always suffer, though, when streaming.


----------



## RedPills4All

welldun said:


> The picture quality from cable tv signals (at the moment) cannot compare to that quality of 4k discs or even 4k streamed material from Netflix and other services. In this case, you may just be expecting too much. However, did you check to make sure that although the cable box signal was set to 1080p, the signal being received at the projector was also 1080p? You can check that by going into the projector's menu and checking under the info section. Also, this would be a good time to also confirm that you have the upscaling and Image Enhancement of the projector set properly.
> 
> If you are getting good results from streaming services and discs, then it follows that the fault for a poor result from the cable box is not the projector's, but rather the signal that it is receiving from the cable provider.
> 
> if you have older formats at home, you can compare both on your TV and Projector how older VHS tapes or even DVD disc look compared to Bluray and 4k material. For the most part, the advantages and differences in quality between Bluray and 4k when compared to SD material can be really appreciated on the bigger screens.


Yea I know it's not going to be as good as 4k UHD discs of course, but it still seems so disappointing. You know, I never thought to confirm the signal was coming in as 1080. Good idea I will check that first thing when i get home!

What upscaling and image enhancement settings would you recommend for cable tv?


----------



## RedPills4All

jt7272 said:


> How are you watching GOT? Using your cable STB? If so then you're going to be disappointed when you blow it up on the big screen. The compression is typically pretty brutal when doing this. It becomes very visible on a large format screen.
> 
> I have experimented with a variety of methods to watch HBO (primarily GOT) and this is my picture quality rankings (1=best):
> 
> 1. Amazon Prime streaming via Sony UBP-X800. The compression is still visible (crushed blacks - just terrible compared to even regular Blu-ray)
> 2. HBO Go via Playstation or PC with HDMI connection
> 3. HBO Go via Chromecast
> 4. Streaming VOD via cable STB
> 999. Watching live on HBO via cable STB (sooooooo much compression, regardless of provider, be it Verizon Fios, Comcast Xfinity, AT&T, etc.)
> 
> I cannot speak to the quality of DirecTV and their HBO stream but my research has shown that they are compressing it quite a bit as well. The only advantage is that DirecTV has historically used more modern compression compared to other cable providers (IDK if this is still the case).
> 
> It really is a shame that there is no option to stream at much higher quality (less compression, especially in the blacks) if your connection can handle it. I have a gigabit fiber connection and my 25MB/s "Full HD" stream is just begging to use that bigger pipe.
> 
> EDIT: To get more to the point, using Amazon Prime streaming via a high quality player will look as good as you can get. On a calibrated 5040/6040 most scenes will look absolutely awesome. Dark scenes will always suffer, though, when streaming.


This is a really great idea. I never thought to use HBO GO. I just figured the compression would be just as bad. I will give that a shot tonight and see how that works out.

So Amazon Prime is the best method even though it has crushed blacks? Can you watch the live versions of shows (say GoT  ) on the day it's out, or is it only previous episodes? Forgive me, I don't think I've used Prime for anything other than movies. I'm definitely going to try all of these methods.


----------



## jt7272

scottjwoodford said:


> This is a really great idea. I never thought to use HBO GO. I just figured the compression would be just as bad. I will give that a shot tonight and see how that works out.
> 
> So Amazon Prime is the best method even though it has crushed blacks? Can you watch the live versions of shows (say GoT  ) on the day it's out, or is it only previous episodes? Forgive me, I don't think I've used Prime for anything other than movies. I'm definitely going to try all of these methods.


You can get HBO through Amazon and the price should be the same as from your cable provider. It is literally the same as HBO Go but the streaming is handled directly by Amazon via Prime.

I made a comment about the crushed blacks because that is the biggest issue with Amazon Prime streaming. It is also equal or worse with the other options that I provided, though.

HBO GO via PS4 has actually been pretty good at times but the app can be slow and the framerate seems to drop sometimes.


----------



## avtoronto

jt7272 said:


> You can get HBO through Amazon and the price should be the same as from your cable provider. It is literally the same as HBO Go but the streaming is handled directly by Amazon via Prime.
> 
> I made a comment about the crushed blacks because that is the biggest issue with Amazon Prime streaming. It is also equal or worse with the other options that I provided, though.
> 
> HBO GO via PS4 has actually been pretty good at times but the app can be slow and the framerate seems to drop sometimes.


I think you guys need to move this discussion to a different thread. It has nothing to do with the 5040 now.


----------



## john hunter

gene4ht said:


> Correct...


Are you sure about this.???
My version of the 6040,TW 9300 certainly does support anamorphic projection.
Suggest you check the Epson site.


----------



## gene4ht

noob00224 said:


> Quick question: the 6040 does not have an anamorphic lens, just the format settings?





john hunter said:


> Are you sure about this.???
> My version of the 6040,TW 9300 certainly does support anamorphic projection.
> Suggest you check the Epson site.


For clarification purposes, the 5040/6040 does not have an anamorphic lens. The projectors do support and project the various common aspect ratios via an easily programmable lens memory function.


----------



## dimi123

gene4ht said:


> For clarification purposes, the 5040/6040 does not have an anamorphic lens. The projectors do support and project the various common aspect ratios via an easily programmable lens memory function.


A anamorphic lens is a standalone lens that is put in front of the projector. The 6040/9300 has "Anamorphic Wide" and "Horizontal Stretch" options for use with an anamorphic lens, whereas the 5040 doesn't. The lens memory function is used for zooming (without an anamorphic lens).


----------



## Juboy

scottjwoodford said:


> I messed with some of the picture enhancement settings (presets, sharpness, noise reduction, etc...) but can't seem to get it to look better than _pretty good_. Do others have this same experience with cable (live tv/streaming)? Am I expecting too much? If you're getting great results for cable TV, can you please post the settings you are using? Thanks in advance for any help!



I use various settings (Orcus, Neilv, Rob's) for stuff like Altered Carbon and Lost In Space via ATV. Looks incredible. I have an LG OLED in the same room and can view both at the same time. The projector image can be made to look about 80% as good as the TV, which to my mind is pretty amazing.


----------



## jt7272

avtoronto said:


> I think you guys need to move this discussion to a different thread. It has nothing to do with the 5040 now.


Yes, I agree. Streaming vs cable and the myriad of picture quality opinions can go elsewhere.

Back to the 5040/6040, it is important to consider what your source is doing to the image. The 5040/6040 cannot do frame interpolation if the incoming signal is 4k. Furthermore, you have to choose in which device to do your upscaling. I have found that the 5040/6040 does a pretty good job of it, especially when combined with the image enhancement settings.

When I stream Amazon via my X800 UBP the picture is upscaled (in the X800) to 4k which eliminates the FI option. I don't like FI in nearly all cases so I don't care. Regarding upscaling, however, this is one case where I think that the x800 does a better job of upscaling than the 5040/6040. When watching Blu-rays I actually prefer the 6040 to do my upscaling. But, for some reason, during streaming I prefer the X800 to do it. YMMV


----------



## gene4ht

noob00224 said:


> Quick question: the 6040 does not have an anamorphic lens, just the format settings?





john hunter said:


> Are you sure about this.???
> My version of the 6040,TW 9300 certainly does support anamorphic projection.
> Suggest you check the Epson site.





dimi123 said:


> A anamorphic lens is a standalone lens that is put in front of the projector. The 6040/9300 has "Anamorphic Wide" and "Horizontal Stretch" options for use with an anamorphic lens, whereas the 5040 doesn't. The lens memory function is used for zooming (without an anamorphic lens).


For final clarification purposes, the 6040 does not have/include a "standalone/external" anamorphic lens. However, john and dimi123 are correct in that the 6040 does have two additional options in support of an external anamorphic lens. From the 6040 manual....


----------



## pologeezer

Hi,


I was looking to upgrade my EH-Tw8200


Dimensions D x W x H*395 x 466 x 158 mm*

*to the Epson 9300
*


*Dimensions D x W x H450 x 520 x 193 mm*

*I do not have an additional 6 cm at the back of my current 8200.*

*I was wondering if the mounting brackets on the 9300 would give me the additional cms (i.e is the moutning bracket / position) nearer the front allowing the same distance at the back - or am i out of luck?*

*THoughts?*


----------



## pologeezer

I was looking to upgrade my EH-Tw8200


Dimensions D x W x H*395 x 466 x 158 mm*

*to the Epson 9300
*


*Dimensions D x W x H450 x 520 x 193 mm*

*I do not have an additional 6 cm at the back of my current 8200.*

*I was wondering if the mounting brackets on the 9300 would give me the additional cms (i.e is the moutning bracket / position) nearer the front allowing the same distance at the back - or am i out of luck?*

*THoughts?*


----------



## prme19

Hello. Can somebody please explain or link me to any posts on how custom gamma works? I was able to calibrate it to 2.28 for SDR. Thank you


----------



## GrandPixel

aaranddeeman said:


> gnolivos said:
> 
> 
> 
> LENS MEMORY RECALL EPSON RESPONSE AND SOLUTION
> 
> All, important update here from Epson today regarding the inaccurate lens memory recall that we have been experiencing. Here is a copy paste of their response. Please read in detail...
> 
> The gist of it is, you should move your lens shift in One Direction only, and never step back for final adjustments. I have yet to test this.
> -----------------
> 
> Sorry for our late reply on this matter, we were checking with our engineers.
> 
> Here is the reply from the engineers on this matter;
> 
> We have done the test of lens shift position memory in the QC process on multiple units.
> The recalled position accuracy of the units tested were each within spec.
> 
> SEC engineers confirmed that the shift amount between recalled position and original position is within 5.5 mm or less as actual measurement value.
> 
> There is a possibility of bad accuracy caused by the procedure for fitting in the screen when customers memorizes the different positions.
> 
> As a precaution, when you fit the display position to the screen, you should avoid moving the lens shift in the opposite direction.
> Please refer to the attached file named “Epson PC 4040-6040UB HC 5040UB-5040UBe Lens shift position memory.pdf" for a better explanation, and try to use this method when setting lens memory positions.
> 
> If you move the lens shift "step by step" to opposite direction for fine-tuning, the moving amount will not be counted correctly by sensor. As a result, a memorized position will be shifted from target, and the bad accuracy of recalled position occurs.
> This is caused by a factor coming from the mechanical structure and the position monitoring method by sensor.
> 
> Unfortunately, SEC hasn't been able to find a better solution for accuracy improvement.
> 
> Thank you again for your patience in this matter.
> We hope this helps!
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is good explanation.
> I just realized one thing though, how do you move to "Default" position. With the steps explained here, to go to your first lens position, one should start from default position (the way it came from factory). Because it is retaining the position co-ordinates in relation to the current position and that current is nothing but the factory default position.
> I am not at my projector right now, else would have checked. But I may have missed if there was a button click to move it to it's original position.
> Does anyone know?
Click to expand...

This is not working for me st all. The result is that the shift is 2” high. I tried compensating, clearing the memories and starting over, nothing works.


----------



## Darrell Money

*X Box One S*

I looked back on some of the older posts regarding issues using an Xbox one S to drive the 5040ub. Anyone else using this combo successfully? I'd seen the HDfury linker solution, but I'd rather just get a different player for that price (I need to to build up some more WAF points  ). I'm still having issues trying to watch 4K UHD discs; hoping someone has figured out a work-around. I believe the Xbox is outputting @ 60 Hz regardless, the 24Hz box is grayed and tells me the TV (PJ in this instance) won't accept the signal. It's really frustrating because movies start out looking great and then start blinking out (not sure exactly what to call it, looks like the processor is getting overwhelmed).


----------



## Juiced46

Darrell Money said:


> I looked back on some of the older posts regarding issues using an Xbox one S to drive the 5040ub. Anyone else using this combo successfully? I'd seen the HDfury linker solution, but I'd rather just get a different player for that price (I need to to build up some more WAF points /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif ). I'm still having issues trying to watch 4K UHD discs; hoping someone has figured out a work-around. I believe the Xbox is outputting @ 60 Hz regardless, the 24Hz box is grayed and tells me the TV (PJ in this instance) won't accept the signal. It's really frustrating because movies start out looking great and then start blinking out (not sure exactly what to call it, looks like the processor is getting overwhelmed).




If everything is connnected properly/set properly. There is no magic getting the XBox One S to work properly. 4K UHD discs should be being displayed @4K/24hz without issue. If you have flickering. Id start looking at a cable or hardware issue


----------



## wowyahoo

HDMI question:

So, I currently have a 40 foot HDMI 2.0 capable of 10 Gbps (bought for my epson 8350) Called C&E 40 foot (off Amazon)

I purchased this projector, so I bought a 35 foot Monoprice cable (Luxe 2.0b, apparently 18 Gbps). However, it kept dropping the singal every 10 seconds, so I switched over to the other HDMI cable, and no issues to my surprise.

I then bought a fiber optic HDMI, which was about 100 dollars, and it works fine, too. In fact, I can't tell the different between this and the 15 dollar cable.

Is there any benefit of having the fiber optic HDMI cable? I didnt notice any difference.

Thanks.


----------



## Kevin12586

So I setup my 5040 this weekend and am blown away at the out the box difference compared to my old panny ae-2000u.

I ran a calibration disk and tweaked things a bit but was wondering if anyone else could share their settings. I looked over some of the others shared like robc and orcus but unless I missed it neither is running in Bright Cinema (SDR settings).

Also a couple questions. 
1. Do I need to vacuum the air filter every 100 hours? 
2. Is it better for the bulb to run it at medium for the first 100 or so hours? Low looks fine in my room
3. Can someone point me in the direction how I can get a 4k source to work, even though my receiver can't pass it through? 

Thanks in advance


----------



## darkangelism

Kevin12586 said:


> 1. Do I need to vacuum the air filter every 100 hours?
> 2. Is it better for the bulb to run it at medium for the first 100 or so hours? Low looks fine in my room
> 3. Can someone point me in the direction how I can get a 4k source to work, even though my receiver can't pass it through?
> 
> Thanks in advance



1. Probably not. I cleaned mine after 2500 hours and it wasn't dirty. it is greyish normally.


----------



## roland6465

Kevin12586 said:


> So I setup my 5040 this weekend and am blown away at the out the box difference compared to my old panny ae-2000u.
> 
> I ran a calibration disk and tweaked things a bit but was wondering if anyone else could share their settings. I looked over some of the others shared like robc and orcus but unless I missed it neither is running in Bright Cinema (SDR settings).
> 
> Also a couple questions.
> 1. Do I need to vacuum the air filter every 100 hours?
> 2. Is it better for the bulb to run it at medium for the first 100 or so hours? Low looks fine in my room
> 3. Can someone point me in the direction how I can get a 4k source to work, even though my receiver can't pass it through?
> 
> Thanks in advance



3. You need to send seperate feeds to the projector(video) and AVR(audio). Either a source with two outputs or an HDMI splitter will be required.


----------



## Deejay Freddy

Darrell Money said:


> I looked back on some of the older posts regarding issues using an Xbox one S to drive the 5040ub. Anyone else using this combo successfully? I'd seen the HDfury linker solution, but I'd rather just get a different player for that price (I need to to build up some more WAF points  ). I'm still having issues trying to watch 4K UHD discs; hoping someone has figured out a work-around. I believe the Xbox is outputting @ 60 Hz regardless, the 24Hz box is grayed and tells me the TV (PJ in this instance) won't accept the signal. It's really frustrating because movies start out looking great and then start blinking out (not sure exactly what to call it, looks like the processor is getting overwhelmed).


I am runing an Xbox One X and a 5040UB - at first I was having issues with Netflix, games, bluray's on the projector, video and audio just cuts out and return a few seconds later.

All my issues were resolved by the HD Fury Integral 2.

https://www.amazon.com/Integral-Spl...ds=integral+2&qid=1552353195&s=gateway&sr=8-1


----------



## Deejay Freddy

Kevin12586 said:


> So I setup my 5040 this weekend and am blown away at the out the box difference compared to my old panny ae-2000u.
> 
> I ran a calibration disk and tweaked things a bit but was wondering if anyone else could share their settings. I looked over some of the others shared like robc and orcus but unless I missed it neither is running in Bright Cinema (SDR settings).
> 
> Also a couple questions.
> 1. Do I need to vacuum the air filter every 100 hours?
> 2. Is it better for the bulb to run it at medium for the first 100 or so hours? Low looks fine in my room
> 3. Can someone point me in the direction how I can get a 4k source to work, even though my receiver can't pass it through?
> 
> Thanks in advance


I also upgraded from a Panasonic PT-AE8000u  My previous receiver only had 1 HDMI port capable of HDCP 2.2 and 4K signals (Onkyo TX-NR1030). I upgraded to the Marantz SR7013.


----------



## ClerkDante

Add another to the list of dead units. 11 months old, already time for a warranty claim. Kinda infuriating. Instantly have gone from recommending it to warning folks about it.


----------



## LVS

Sorry to hear Clerk!



As prevalent as this problem continues to be this much time after initial production, would surely have to indicate a hardware design problem that would require a redesign & board-spin. Their take must be, cheaper too keep replacing units with the same bad components knowing a another potential hardware failure can re-occur and inconveniencing customers, than redesigning a product. My confusion, and if (big IF) this is sorted out on the new unit why not release the damn thing in the states.



I am tired of waiting on the 5050, and have almost jumped on the 5040 bandwagon myself, but the bad experiences continue to persist, so must resist. 



Losing faith in Espon so need to take business elsewhere, that is the only way they will get the message. 



I would be trying the new benq HT3550 if the throw range would work. Now waiting on the Benq HT5550.


----------



## bondslex

I wanted to purchase the 5040 also. It is ridiculous that new units being sold are still having this problem.


----------



## roland6465

bondslex said:


> I wanted to purchase the 5040 also. It is ridiculous that new units being sold are still having this problem.



I know it's buried in the thread, but after 4 refurb replacements (the original and one refurb's power supply died), I finally gave up on Epson. I hocked some old electronics, including the final refurb, and went to Sony. It's definitely a higher price point, and is a notch lower in contrast, but the build quality and true 4K panel more than make up for it. Hell, the sealed light engine is worth it alone. Two of my refurb Epsons had dust blobs out of the box.


----------



## RedPills4All

*Fan Noise*

Is there any way to make the 5040ub quieter other than building a full on hush box? I found some settings that I love (will post later as I'm still tweaking) for HDR, but they really only pop on High lamp mode. Unfortunately, due to room constraints the PJ is right behind the rear row of seats, and it's very loud. I have tried changing the setting to normal and compensating with other settings (upping brightness and color saturation) but it's just not the same. I don't think building a complete hush box will be an option, as there is no where for me to vent the heat to. The room is in the basement, and the ceiling is full of insulation. Any ideas?


----------



## gene4ht

ClerkDante said:


> *Add another to the list of dead units. 11 months old, already time for a warranty claim. Kinda infuriating. Instantly have gone from recommending it to warning folks about it.*





LVS said:


> Sorry to hear Clerk!
> 
> *As prevalent as this problem continues to be this much time after initial production, would surely have to indicate a hardware design problem that would require a redesign & board-spin. *Their take must be, cheaper too keep replacing units with the same bad components knowing a another potential hardware failure can re-occur and inconveniencing customers, than redesigning a product. My confusion, and if (big IF) this is sorted out on the new unit why not release the damn thing in the states.
> 
> I am tired of waiting on the 5050, and have almost jumped on the 5040 bandwagon myself, but the bad experiences continue to persist, so must resist.
> 
> *Losing faith in Espon so need to take business elsewhere, that is the only way they will get the message.*
> 
> I would be trying the new benq HT3550 if the throw range would work. Now waiting on the Benq HT5550.





bondslex said:


> I wanted to purchase the 5040 also. *It is ridiculous that new units being sold are still having this problem.*





roland6465 said:


> I know it's buried in the thread, but *after 4 refurb replacements* (the original and one refurb's power supply died), *I finally gave up on Epson.* I hocked some old electronics, including the final refurb, and went to Sony. It's definitely a higher price point, and is a notch lower in contrast, but the build quality and true 4K panel more than make up for it. Hell, the sealed light engine is worth it alone. Two of my refurb Epsons had dust blobs out of the box.


It's unfortunate that Epson's corporate culture and/or current leadership elected to remain silent on the "power supply failure" issue. In today's world marketplace, transparency is the key to customer satisfaction and long term loyalty. Everyone understands that no manufacturer produces perfect products 100% of the time...s**t happens. It's a manufacturer's actions following imperfection that defines an organization. Most would agree that silence would not be a preferred action and would not constitute a winning strategy.


----------



## tom0

ClerkDante said:


> Add another to the list of dead units. 11 months old, already time for a warranty claim. Kinda infuriating. Instantly have gone from recommending it to warning folks about it.


Was that 11 months since purchase date, or since manufacture date? Do you know how I can find the manufacture date of my unit?


----------



## Blu-Boy in BKK

Can’t believe that they are still flogging the 5040 when the 9400 (5050) has been on sale in Europe for months now. And to make matters worse the units continue to fail. Seems like Epson would much rather just shift these dodgy units in preparation for the imminent release of 5050 rather than fix the current stock.


----------



## darkangelism

It also ruins the resale value, I would love to sell my 5040ub and get a 5050 but I doubt I could get any real return with all of the issues.


----------



## LVS

darkangelism said:


> It also ruins the resale value, I would love to sell my 5040ub and get a 5050 but I doubt I could get any real return with all of the issues.



Very valid point and very-very unfortunate for the customer.


----------



## bigbadbob

So I just wonder if every unit is bad and it's a matter of time before it pukes or are there some good units out there... I wonder what percent of the total production of 5040s is bad/good.


----------



## roland6465

darkangelism said:


> It also ruins the resale value, I would love to sell my 5040ub and get a 5050 but I doubt I could get any real return with all of the issues.



True. I got lucky and had a friend that was redoing one side of his bar and wanted a projector, and when we mounted it, he didn't care about the dust blob for the price I gave him.


----------



## ClerkDante

Projector died a couple of days ago. Replacement arrived today. Like an idiot I didn’t save any calibration settings. 

Shot in the dark but does anyone remember an outstanding set of Natural HDR settings that was posted in this thread 2-3 months ago? 

I’m going to start digging but it’s a bit tedious

Thanks!


----------



## timelinex

I just setup my 5040UB and I am having a flickering issue. It gets worse and better and during the bad times it's easily a flicker every 5-10 seconds. I don't think that it's the bulb issue simply because if I go to the projectors "home" screen there is absolutely no flickering. I tried changing power consumption modes between eco/medium/high and that doesn't change anything.

It's hard to test everything and be sure just because the issue does go away from a little bit at a time sometimes. It's also hard to test the HDMI cables because this is in a home theatre with cables ran through walls/attic. I changed my Nvidia Shield from 4k59hz recommended to 4k60hz and the issue went away. But it came back an hour or so later so I'm not sure that did anything. 

I changed the resolution of the Nvidia to 1080p and I haven't had not 1 flicker at that resolution. My biggest suspect is the HDMI cable from my Denon AVR to the Projector. It's a relatively long run and it's the original cable from 10 years ago. I was surprised 4k even worked with it considering the length of run. I know there is issues with long cables and 4k. I was just under the impression that HDMI is an all or nothing type thing? 

Is it possible the flicker is because of the old/long HDMI cable?


----------



## jmeitz

timelinex said:


> I just setup my 5040UB and I am having a flickering issue. It gets worse and better and during the bad times it's easily a flicker every 5-10 seconds. I don't think that it's the bulb issue simply because if I go to the projectors "home" screen there is absolutely no flickering. I tried changing power consumption modes between eco/medium/high and that doesn't change anything.
> 
> It's hard to test everything and be sure just because the issue does go away from a little bit at a time sometimes. It's also hard to test the HDMI cables because this is in a home theatre with cables ran through walls/attic. I changed my Nvidia Shield from 4k59hz recommended to 4k60hz and the issue went away. But it came back an hour or so later so I'm not sure that did anything.
> 
> I changed the resolution of the Nvidia to 1080p and I haven't had not 1 flicker at that resolution. My biggest suspect is the HDMI cable from my Denon AVR to the Projector. It's a relatively long run and it's the original cable from 10 years ago. I was surprised 4k even worked with it considering the length of run. I know there is issues with long cables and 4k. I was just under the impression that HDMI is an all or nothing type thing?
> 
> Is it possible the flicker is because of the old/long HDMI cable?


Had similar issues until I went to a fiber hdmi.


----------



## roland6465

timelinex said:


> I just setup my 5040UB and I am having a flickering issue. It gets worse and better and during the bad times it's easily a flicker every 5-10 seconds. I don't think that it's the bulb issue simply because if I go to the projectors "home" screen there is absolutely no flickering. I tried changing power consumption modes between eco/medium/high and that doesn't change anything.
> 
> It's hard to test everything and be sure just because the issue does go away from a little bit at a time sometimes. It's also hard to test the HDMI cables because this is in a home theatre with cables ran through walls/attic. I changed my Nvidia Shield from 4k59hz recommended to 4k60hz and the issue went away. But it came back an hour or so later so I'm not sure that did anything.
> 
> I changed the resolution of the Nvidia to 1080p and I haven't had not 1 flicker at that resolution. My biggest suspect is the HDMI cable from my Denon AVR to the Projector. It's a relatively long run and it's the original cable from 10 years ago. I was surprised 4k even worked with it considering the length of run. I know there is issues with long cables and 4k. I was just under the impression that HDMI is an all or nothing type thing?
> 
> Is it possible the flicker is because of the old/long HDMI cable?





jmeitz said:


> Had similar issues until I went to a fiber hdmi.



Definitely sounds like an HDMI issue. The copper cable that was run for my 1080p, and then 6040 Epson projector gave the same flickering/pink monoblocking results when I upgraded to a Sony 4K projector. I use a 40' https://sewelldirect.com/light-link-40ft for a 28' run, and got immediate resolution af all video issues.


----------



## timelinex

Thanks for the feedback guys. I was really hoping it's not the cable since its ran through the walls and attic!


----------



## welldun

bigbadbob said:


> So I just wonder if every unit is bad and it's a matter of time before it pukes or are there some good units out there... I wonder what percent of the total production of 5040s is bad/good.


It is probably only a small percentage that goes bad compared to total sales. Unfortunately, forums tend to make it seem worse since people come here either looking for tweaks, help, or to vent. the majority of owners probably don't even know about the forums and are perfectly happy with the out of the box performance. I would think that if the issues were as prevalent as the forums make them seem Epson would have issued a recall by now.


----------



## timelinex

I just realized I have 2 cat 5e's running to the projector. That would make it easy for me to do hdmi over cat. Are those solutions good enough for 4k?


----------



## jjd1131

5040ub setup questions.

Just got the projector setup and tried finding some consistent calibration settings. I found a wide variety of opinions. Can anyone attach a link or suggest settings that walk me through each screen? We will be using it for ps4 pro, xfinity cable and blu ray movies. It is located in the basement without any ambient light. 
Also, the 4K enhancement option is greyed out. Anyone have a clue why that could be? 
Last question. It seems as if I have an aspect issue since half the logo in the corners of the screen are gone but all I can choose is normal. 

Any help with all this would be much appreciated!!


----------



## AdamAttewell

timelinex said:


> I just realized I have 2 cat 5e's running to the projector. That would make it easy for me to do hdmi over cat. Are those solutions good enough for 4k?


https://www.hdfury.com/product/maestro/


----------



## jbnpaul

So yesterday I became a new owner of 5040ub.
I previously had a benq 2550.

I was looking forward to 5050ub and benq 3550. But initial reviews indicate 5050 would only have minor improvements. And looks like 3550 is going to be too dim with its cinema filter. So I finally decided to get 5040 with the current reduction in price and the free lamp offer.

I have apple tv 4k and Xbox one X. I set up my apple tv to output hdr 24p. Haven't setup xbox yet. 

Are there any setup instructions available for apple tv/xbox so that I can optimize performance?
I found projector settings recommendations in this thread. I will setup some of them today and report back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

jjd1131 said:


> 5040ub setup questions.
> 
> Just got the projector setup and tried finding some consistent calibration settings. I found a wide variety of opinions. Can anyone attach a link or suggest settings that walk me through each screen? We will be using it for ps4 pro, xfinity cable and blu ray movies. It is located in the basement without any ambient light.
> Also, the 4K enhancement option is greyed out. Anyone have a clue why that could be?
> Last question. It seems as if I have an aspect issue since half the logo in the corners of the screen are gone but all I can choose is normal.
> 
> Any help with all this would be much appreciated!!



1. It sounds like your source is outputting a 4K signal, which overrides 4K Enhancement on the projector. If you want the projector to do the processing, choose "auto" or "direct" output from your sources.


2. This sounds like you may be zoomed in too much. Put the test pattern up on the screen and make sure all your corners and sides are right.


----------



## rbk123

timelinex said:


> I just realized I have 2 cat 5e's running to the projector. That would make it easy for me to do hdmi over cat. Are those solutions good enough for 4k?


A lot of people have had 4k problems using the cat solutions, but since the 5040 is only 10G, there's a decent chance you'll be fine. I'd recommend doing some research on people's actual experiences. Emotiva came out with one and touted it highly but I know several people who tried it and returned it because it didn't work very well.


----------



## rjguk

jbnpaul said:


> I have apple tv 4k and Xbox one X. I set up my apple tv to output hdr 24p. Haven't setup xbox yet.
> 
> Are there any setup instructions available for apple tv/xbox so that I can optimize performance?



For the Apple TV 4K it is usually best not to force hdr and 24p for everything. Try setting 'Match Content' and 'Match Dynamic Range' both to ON. This means that you get the native frame rate of the material and SDR or HDR according to the source.


----------



## jbnpaul

rjguk said:


> For the Apple TV 4K it is usually best not to force hdr and 24p for everything. Try setting 'Match Content' and 'Match Dynamic Range' both to ON. This means that you get the native frame rate of the material and SDR or HDR according to the source.



Thanks. I set the apple tv to 60p SDR. Now most apps(hbo, cw, screen savers) are 60p. Is this expected? I was thinking most of the TV content is 24p?

I don't get hdr screen savers. Only the sdr ones.

Itunes works as expected. Hdr movies play hdr 24p.

But netflix doesn't even show anything as HDR. All content I thought were supposed to be hdr, shows up as 4k. And I believe it plays as 60p sdr.

Am I missing something here?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rjguk

jbnpaul said:


> Thanks. I set the apple tv to 60p SDR. Now most apps(hbo, cw, screen savers) are 60p. Is this expected? I was thinking most of the TV content is 24p?
> 
> I don't get hdr screen savers. Only the sdr ones.
> 
> Itunes works as expected. Hdr movies play hdr 24p.
> 
> But netflix doesn't even show anything as HDR. All content I thought were supposed to be hdr, shows up as 4k. And I believe it plays as 60p sdr.
> 
> Am I missing something here?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You might need to stop and restart the Netflix app, or restart the ATV4K just to make sure. On mine much of the Netflix (and Amazon Prime Video) content definitely runs as 24p HDR according to the PJ info.
The other thing to consider is whether your path from the ATV4K to the PJ is going through an AV amp, and whether that amp is set to fully pass-through the signal. Sometimes the amp might be upscaling or otherwise meddling with the signal and that could lead to the the playback reverting to something other than desired.


Oh, the screensavers don't seem to adhere to the match dynamic range, you'll get the SDR ones unless you force HDR. And that messes with 'real' SDR material.


----------



## darkangelism

bigbadbob said:


> So I just wonder if every unit is bad and it's a matter of time before it pukes or are there some good units out there... I wonder what percent of the total production of 5040s is bad/good.


Who has the most hours on one without issues? I have 31xx hours and no issues yet.


----------



## timelinex

rbk123 said:


> A lot of people have had 4k problems using the cat solutions, but since the 5040 is only 10G, there's a decent chance you'll be fine. I'd recommend doing some research on people's actual experiences. Emotiva came out with one and touted it highly but I know several people who tried it and returned it because it didn't work very well.


Hmmm, I don't want a bandaid solution, especially when the HDMI over Cat equipment is expensive. I might as well just run a fiber wire.

I have heard good things about "RUIPRO Fiber HDMI Cable" and see it's like $200 on Amazon. That should be enough to future proof me?


----------



## jbnpaul

rjguk said:


> You might need to stop and restart the Netflix app, or restart the ATV4K just to make sure. On mine much of the Netflix (and Amazon Prime Video) content definitely runs as 24p HDR according to the PJ info.
> The other thing to consider is whether your path from the ATV4K to the PJ is going through an AV amp, and whether that amp is set to fully pass-through the signal. Sometimes the amp might be upscaling or otherwise meddling with the signal and that could lead to the the playback reverting to something other than desired.
> 
> 
> Oh, the screensavers don't seem to adhere to the match dynamic range, you'll get the SDR ones unless you force HDR. And that messes with 'real' SDR material.


Thanks. I will give this a try as soon as I reach back home. I already restarted the ATV4K and netflix and that didn't fix the issue.
I didn't think about the AVR, it is quite possible I have made some settings changes on the AVR. I am coming from BenQ 2550 which supports 18Ggbps HDMI, but I was not happy with the HDR. Since the SDR clearly looked much better I ended up forcing everything to SDR.

Given iTunes is matching the frame rate as expected ( Playing HDR movies in 24p ) is there a reason you can think of Netflix and other apps won't do the same at least for SDR content?
Why would Netflix, HBO, CW etc. use 60p instead of 24p for SDR content?
I watched Arrow, Flash, How to get away with Murder and Game of thrones, all of which played in 60p 4K SDR. I expect all of them to play 24p SDR. I am assuming they are 4K since Apple TV is upscaling them.
I then tried Life of Pi via iTunes and it immediately switched to 24p HDR and color space switched accordingly.

Anyway I will double check if I have messed up some settings on my AVR Denon 4400 ( I played around with it few months back and it is possible I might have turned on/off something)

What is wrong with setting ATV4K to 24p HDR or 30p HDR and then turning on dynamic range and frame rate settings? I see that the Apple TV thread doesn't recommend this as well. The reason I see, is some apps doesn't handle the dynamic range and output everything in HDR. But when I tried the above apps none of them did it. My only problem was Netflix didn't switch to HDR and may be the home screen had some images with blown out color. But as soon as I start an App it would switch to SDR 24p.

I will also try resetting my Apple TV, just to make sure none of my previous settings is messing this up.


----------



## bigbadbob

darkangelism said:


> Who has the most hours on one without issues? I have 31xx hours and no issues yet.


I just turned over 200 hours. Still "breaking it in".


----------



## Mr.G

timelinex said:


> Hmmm, I don't want a bandaid solution, especially when the HDMI over Cat equipment is expensive. I might as well just run a fiber wire.
> 
> I have heard good things about "RUIPRO Fiber HDMI Cable" and see it's like $200 on Amazon. That should be enough to future proof me?


Actually if you check Amazon today you will see the RUIPRO Hybrid HDMI Cable (Supports HDMI2.0b, 4K60HZ 4:4:4, 18Gbps Bandwidth, HDR10, Dolby Vision, ARC, HDCP2.2, Fiber HDMI Cable, Ultra Slim and Flexible (15m)) is selling for $150 with a 20% coupon brings it in at ~$120. Purchased mine on sale over a week ago and it works fine for 4K. Will it future proof you for 8K? Nope.


----------



## MississippiMan

darkangelism said:


> Who has the most hours on one without issues? I have 31xx hours and no issues yet.



Guys...I have well over a dozen 5040s in place, some for over 3 years and multiple Lamp replacements. at least half have over 2K hours. (I am replacing them steadily w/JVC though...  )



I've had 1 that was sent back....out of approx. 16. So......? The unit is a Poor Man's JVC x590r / RS540. (...but I did / do still like it's brightness and Black levels...) 



Problems get over-exposed on a Public Forum, and hardly ever represent the true ratio of issues & returns.


----------



## [email protected]

darkangelism said:


> Who has the most hours on one without issues? I have 31xx hours and no issues yet.


We had 46xx hours on ours when we lost the power supply and it wouldn't power on at all. No lights, nothing. Sent it to Epson and had it back within 10 days (refused a refurbished unit - wanted our specific unit fixed). They installed a new lamp for us as well free of charge, so I guess that's a positive.

I remember a couple of times I had to pull the power cable and leave it unplugged for a few seconds to get it to 'reset' and turn back on. Usually that came with the flashing amber lights. I don't remember the details given that I did not really follow the power unit issue here on this thread very well, so I had no idea what was happening until it finally died.

We ran ours mostly on Eco mode. Occasionally had to start bumping into the Mid and High power setting to get some additional lumens during day time viewing (we don't have a ALR screen) and on HDR titles mastered at a higher nit target when we got over 3,500 hours.

Overall, I have been happy with the Epson, but it sucks that some people have had so many issues.

EDIT: **Note** The Epson became our primary 'display' and was setup in the main living room. I bought our 5040UBe back in March of 2017. It finally died on us December 2018. Our repaired unit is now in a dedicated theater room (we moved January of this year) and has maybe 100 hours on it and only because I fell asleep a couple of times while binge watching shows on Netflix lol.


----------



## MississippiMan

Mr.G said:


> Actually if you check Amazon today you will see the RUIPRO Hybrid HDMI Cable (Supports HDMI2.0b, 4K60HZ 4:4:4, 18Gbps Bandwidth, HDR10, Dolby Vision, ARC, HDCP2.2, Fiber HDMI Cable, Ultra Slim and Flexible (15m)) is selling for $150 with a 20% coupon brings it in at ~$120. Purchased mine on sale over a week ago and it works fine for 4K. Will it future proof you for 8K? Nope.



Yeah...at least at present for future Native 8K ya gotta go with HDMI/Cat-6. The better ones are rated at well over 60gb...affordable ones are still 36gb. But the thing to watch out for is how much compression they introduce. FO/HDMI is true Lossless.


----------



## jbnpaul

rjguk said:


> You might need to stop and restart the Netflix app, or restart the ATV4K just to make sure.
> 
> Oh, the screensavers don't seem to adhere to the match dynamic range, you'll get the SDR ones unless you force HDR. And that messes with 'real' SDR material.



So my netflix issue is finally resolved. I restarted apple tv couple of times. Reset video settings etc.
Then i started altered carbon and initially it started out as just 4k sdr. And in a minute or so the screen went black and came back up as hdr. And now I am happy with hdr.

For now I am keeping atv as hdr 24p with both range and frame rate set to match. This is the only way I can get the screen savers in HDR and this for me is the primary demo material. And I am love the night screen savers with hdr3.

You mentioned this messes the real sdr. When I tried sdr with netflix, hbo, cw, history they all switched to 24p sdr. So I am assuming this is good as I can't find anything wrong with the images. Is there a specific content or app scenario where this setup wouldn't work?

Later today I am planning to experiment with sdr60p. I used to use this with my benq 2550. I believe that projector used to convert everything to 60p since I noticed pull down/up artifacts with 24p. I also preferred sdr instead of hdr. But I am loving the hdr so far.

I noticed there is no one hdr setting that works all the time. I love the screen savers in hdr3 with the diet. But in general I prefer the hdr1/ bright cinema. Next item in my list is trying out the recommended settings from this thread.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RedPills4All

Is it me or does 1080p look pretty bad on this projector? I was watching LOTR on blu-ray and it's just so grainy/blurry compared to 4k discs. Yes of course I understand they are going to be much lower resolution, but based on what others have said I was expecting much more out of a 1080p blu-ray. I decided to turn off all upconversion whatsoever on the player (UBP-X700), and I also turned of 4k enhancement on the Epson. That did help a lot, but it's still not very impressive. It does have much less artifacts in the pic. Any ideas on what to try next? I can post my settings if that will help. I'm using a variation of Harpervision I found on here but have set it to Auto(Bright) or forced SDR (they look the same on this particular source). 

I also noticed some jittery movement. I have Frame Interpolation set to Low for now, because when it's on Normal or above, I noticed HUGE amounts of artifacts during scenes with motion. For example there's a scene where Gandalf is riding by on his horse from right to left and there's a trail of digital artifacts behind him on the Normal setting. When I set to Low this is gone. However, the picture is more jittery. Have others noticed this as well?


----------



## carp

scottjwoodford said:


> Is it me or does 1080p look pretty bad on this projector? I was watching LOTR on blu-ray and it's just so grainy/blurry compared to 4k discs. Yes of course I understand they are going to be much lower resolution, but based on what others have said I was expecting much more out of a 1080p blu-ray. I decided to turn off all upconversion whatsoever on the player (UBP-X700), and I also turned of 4k enhancement on the Epson. That did help a lot, but it's still not very impressive. It does have much less artifacts in the pic. Any ideas on what to try next? I can post my settings if that will help. I'm using a variation of Harpervision I found on here but have set it to Auto(Bright) or forced SDR (they look the same on this particular source).
> 
> I also noticed some jittery movement. I have Frame Interpolation set to Low for now, because when it's on Normal or above, I noticed HUGE amounts of artifacts during scenes with motion. For example there's a scene where Gandalf is riding by on his horse from right to left and there's a trail of digital artifacts behind him on the Normal setting. When I set to Low this is gone. However, the picture is more jittery. Have others noticed this as well?



The much bigger variable is the quality of each individual movie. There are 1080p disks that look better than 4k disks of a different movie.

I haven't noticed the digital artifacts, but I can't stand frame interpolation and never use it. 

To my eyes 4k enhancement on looks a lot better on than off for 1080p sources. You get a lot of screen door effect with it turned off. Pause a movie and toggle it on and off, you will see the SDE come and go as you toggle on and off.


----------



## Dark Rider

I've had my 5040ub since late April 2017, and am happy to report that I haven't had a single issue with it. It gets pretty much daily use for 2-3 hours, and I've got just shy of 2000 hours on it now. I'm closing in on the 2 year warranty expiration, and I'm curious if anyone has had their power supply fail outside of warranty and how Epson handled it? 

One thing that I did note in reading up on the issue is that all of the reported failures I've seen happened when the unit was powered down and not running. I came to the 5040ub after a lightning strike fried my HDMI ports on my Viewsonic Pro8100. The Pro8100 was always sensitive to constant power(banding), so I used a programmable timer to shut down the projector for a set amount of time late every night. After the lightning strike, I took it a step further and went to a switched power strip that uses my AV Receiver powering on as the trigger for the other devices, including my projector. That way, it prevents preloading the capacitors until the unit is ready to be used. I can't say for certain this has protected my unit, but it may be worth looking into for any of you looking to add another measure of protection.


----------



## RedPills4All

carp said:


> The much bigger variable is the quality of each individual movie. There are 1080p disks that look better than 4k disks of a different movie.
> 
> I haven't noticed the digital artifacts, but I can't stand frame interpolation and never use it.
> 
> To my eyes 4k enhancement on looks a lot better on than off for 1080p sources. You get a lot of screen door effect with it turned off. Pause a movie and toggle it on and off, you will see the SDE come and go as you toggle on and off.


I'm not seeing much SDE, more blurriness than anything. I will definitely try pausing and toggling it on/off.

So if you don't ever use Frame Interpolation, you don't notice any jittery movement on panning or action sequences?


----------



## jt7272

carp said:


> The much bigger variable is the quality of each individual movie. There are 1080p disks that look better than 4k disks of a different movie.
> 
> I haven't noticed the digital artifacts, but I can't stand frame interpolation and never use it.
> 
> To my eyes 4k enhancement on looks a lot better on than off for 1080p sources. You get a lot of screen door effect with it turned off. Pause a movie and toggle it on and off, you will see the SDE come and go as you toggle on and off.


carp is correct here. LOTR blurays are known for having detail issues, especially Fellowship of the Ring. You can do some research and find this on your own.

To sum: by watching a movie on a huge screen with a good projector you will see very large variations in quality of the source content, regardless of it being a "Blu-ray"

For example, I have a copy of Enemy of the State on blu-ray that looks barely better than DVD. But other movies like The Godfather (awesome remaster and transfer) and Star Wars: The Force Awakens (new movies generally look better) look great on Blu-ray.


----------



## john hunter

What settings are you using,Scott?
I use Oledurt's digital cinema for SDR and am mighty pleased with the results.
Seeing detail on BD's that I never knew was there and colours are beautiful.
Suggest you try this or Dave Harper's HarperVision.


----------



## jbnpaul

How do I make sure the iris is working? I believe I was able to see the darken once a dark image comes up. And then brightening one a brighter image follow it.
Today I no longer see this happening. Is there a catch here? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Juboy

scottjwoodford said:


> Is it me or does 1080p look pretty bad on this projector?



I've found almost the opposite to be true. With the right settings, I find 1080p looks almost as good as 4K, to the point where my main disappointment with the projector is that UHD doesn't look much better than HD. Most 1080p stuff looks pretty damn amazing on my 9300 (6040).


----------



## evilaviator

Juboy said:


> I've found almost the opposite to be true. With the right settings, I find 1080p looks almost as good as 4K, to the point where my main disappointment with the projector is that UHD doesn't look much better than HD. Most 1080p stuff looks pretty damn amazing on my 9300 (6040).



So let me get this straight.

I have three options with the OPPO 203 to display 1080p content. First option is to let the player upscale the image to 4k and output as 4k. Second option is to use source direct and output 1080p content to the projector and display as true 1080p and the third is use source direct, display 1080p again but this time use the projector with the 4k image enhancement turned on. 

Assuming I am correct with my statement above, does anyone with the OPPO player find which one of these three options display the best 1080p image?


----------



## Juboy

I use the 203 and always set it to carry out the upscaling. It does a better job than the PJ in my experience.


In other words, your 'first option' above.


----------



## timelinex

Juboy said:


> I've found almost the opposite to be true. With the right settings, I find 1080p looks almost as good as 4K, to the point where my main disappointment with the projector is that UHD doesn't look much better than HD. Most 1080p stuff looks pretty damn amazing on my 9300 (6040).


Agreed. I think the 1080p looks spectacular and the 4k barely seems any better!


----------



## avtoronto

timelinex said:


> Agreed. I think the 1080p looks spectacular and the 4k barely seems any better!


SDR material looks fine and it really is a 'set and forget' format. I use one of the Natural-based set of settings from this forum. Note Cinema and Digital Cinema are intended for HDR material, as I've learnt from here. HDR material can look great, but does vary by disc or streaming service, requiring selecting different sets of settings (at least for me).


----------



## jjwinterberg

timelinex said:


> Agreed. I think the 1080p looks spectacular and the 4k barely seems any better!


 
It's all about how far away from the screen you sit. For most applications 4K is overkill because your eye's resolving capability is not sufficient to see the pixel structure unless you are at an unusually close viewing distance. A simple relationship for 4K material on a 16x9 screen is that if your viewing distance is greater then half the screen diagonal in inches then your eye cannot resolve the individual pixels. For 1080, if you view from further than the screen diagonal you can't resolve the pixels.

I have a 120" screen and I sit about 8' from the screen. I sure can't see the pixel structure for 4K and I never notice it on 1080; perhaps it's the 4K enhancement on 1080 material but it's never noticeable to me. The HDR and WCG are probably more important to a UHD bluray than the 4K resolution. YMMV


----------



## quentinnw2

would you guys pick the Sony 45ES over EPSON 5040 UB projector IF SO/NOT EXPLAIN PLEASE?


----------



## BrightBlade

Seeking opinions about the 5050 vs the 5040.

If the price suspected (and specs suspected) for the Epson 5050 are correct at $2500, would it be worth it to get that over the price reduced (and free additional bulb) 5040 for a 106in screen with a 20' throw mounted on the ceiling? I am replacing a Panasonic AE-4000U 1080P projector. Of course, I only have 8 days left to make this choice.


----------



## LVS

^ I have heard $2999 for the 5050 at launch. At $2500 I would opt for the 5050 over the 5040 in hopes the power supply issue is fixed and you will get full bandwidth 18GB/s hdmi.


Edited: I meant to also add at $2999, the 5040 might be a better option assuming you will be taking a risk. Also at $2999 you are within $1000 street price for true 4k Sony 295es albeit with less lumen output.


----------



## jjwinterberg

BrightBlade said:


> Seeking opinions about the 5050 vs the 5040.
> 
> If the price suspected (and specs suspected) for the Epson 5050 are correct at $2500, would it be worth it to get that over the price reduced (and free additional bulb) 5040 for a 106in screen with a 20' throw mounted on the ceiling? I am replacing a Panasonic AE-4000U 1080P projector. Of course, I only have 8 days left to make this choice.


The 5050 is going to have the 18 Gb/s HDMI capability which is necessary for 4K @ 60Hz. This is mostly useful for gaming and maybe for television sports. 

Someone in this thread reported that an Epson rep. said that they have resolved the 5040 power supply issues and that the latest 5040 production has the problem resolved. Some in this thread have reported that new units still exhibited the power supply problems. I have not heard anyone report power supply problems in the European version of the 5050. 

It is claimed by Epson that the 5050 gamma curves are updated to provide better HDR performance. There are also claims of some other performance improvements. I'm somewhat skeptical regarding these claims.

These are the main differences that I've read about. Only you know which ones you are sensitive to. Only you can evaluate if you are sensitive to the price increase.

The marketing departments are in business to make these decisions difficult. Good Luck.


----------



## BrightBlade

LVS said:


> ^ I have heard $2999 for the 5050 at launch. At $2500 I would opt for the 5050 over the 5040 in hopes the power supply issue is fixed and you will get full bandwidth 18GB/s hdmi.
> 
> 
> Edited: I meant to also add at $2999, the 5040 might be a better option assuming you will be taking a risk. Also at $2999 you are within $1000 street price for true 4k Sony 295es albeit with less lumen output.





jjwinterberg said:


> The 5050 is going to have the 18 Gb/s HDMI capability which is necessary for 4K @ 60Hz. This is mostly useful for gaming and maybe for television sports.
> 
> Someone in this thread reported that an Epson rep. said that they have resolved the 5040 power supply issues and that the latest 5040 production has the problem resolved. Some in this thread have reported that new units still exhibited the power supply problems. I have not heard anyone report power supply problems in the European version of the 5050.
> 
> It is claimed by Epson that the 5050 gamma curves are updated to provide better HDR performance. There are also claims of some other performance improvements. I'm somewhat skeptical regarding these claims.
> 
> These are the main differences that I've read about. Only you know which ones you are sensitive to. Only you can evaluate if you are sensitive to the price increase.
> 
> The marketing departments are in business to make these decisions difficult. Good Luck.



Thank you both. Do either of you know if Netflix 4k shows, played through a Roku 4k player, will have issues if the projector cannot do [email protected]? That is my only real sorry at this point...most of what I will play is simply going to be BluRay ISO rips through the PC, though a Denon X4300H AVR, to the Projector.


----------



## BrightBlade

Also, does this projector have HDMI-CEC? Just found out the Optomas do not.


----------



## LVS

BrightBlade said:


> Thank you both. Do either of you know if Netflix 4k shows, played through a Roku 4k player, will have issues if the projector cannot do [email protected]? That is my only real sorry at this point...most of what I will play is simply going to be BluRay ISO rips through the PC, though a Denon X4300H AVR, to the Projector.



Good question I can't answer.


----------



## BrightBlade

LVS said:


> Good question I can't answer.


I did a google search and found that it does work without any issues caused by the projector. Netflix loses HDR capability at times, but that is the fault of Netflix - you have to reboot the Roku to get it restored. No big deal there.

This thing is looking better and better all the time! My only concern is that I may need a fiber HDMI cable (I have a Monoprice Active HDMI 18G cable at 30 feet right now), but I will cross that bridge when I get there.


----------



## BrightBlade

BrightBlade said:


> Also, does this projector have HDMI-CEC? Just found out the Optomas do not.


Found the answer - for those who want to know, it does support HDMI-CEC. YAY!!!

From the manual:

Note: When an audio/video source that meets the HDMI CEC standard is connected to the projector's HDMI port, you can use the projector's remote control to control certain features of the linked device by pressing the HDMI Link button on the remote control and setting HDMI Link to On.


----------



## WynsWrld98

​


BrightBlade said:


> I did a google search and found that it does work without any issues caused by the projector. Netflix loses HDR capability at times, but that is the fault of Netflix - you have to reboot the Roku to get it restored. No big deal there.
> 
> This thing is looking better and better all the time! My only concern is that I may need a fiber HDMI cable (I have a Monoprice Active HDMI 18G cable at 30 feet right now), but I will cross that bridge when I get there.


What makes you think your cable isn't good enough?


----------



## BrightBlade

WynsWrld98 said:


> ​
> What makes you think your cable isn't good enough?


Oh, it could easily be good enough. Just saying that the cable is most likely my weakest link. I am hopeful (and expectant) and it will work just fine.


----------



## tom0

jjwinterberg said:


> The 5050 is going to have the 18 Gb/s HDMI capability which is necessary for 4K @ 60Hz. This is mostly useful for gaming and maybe for television sports.


Note [email protected] Hz is supported on 5040UB (and 10 Gb/s HDMI) when using SDR and 8-bit 4:2:0 chroma subsampling. 60 Hz refresh rate is unsupported when using HDR, or 10-bit color, or 4:4:4 or RGB output.

EDIT: I just found out that 4K 60 Hz is limited to 8-bit 4:2:0 chroma subsampling. This is less than ideal for use as a computer monitor or for video games.


----------



## Jaflores

I was wondering what you guys with shield TV have your output video setting on. I'm on the 24hz setting and it's just kind of choppy, not smooth like with a higher hz rating. On shield however when I try changing to a higher setting the pitcture shrinks down some. Kinda weird. I guess I'm asking what is optimal best output for the Epson from the sheild


----------



## sinseven

Recently got a 5040UB as my first projector. Have an apple 4k TV and movies from it looks amazing. However, If I tried streaming AMC Walking Dead from their app this week, and watched shows on Netflix (HD level), dark/black screens look insanely bad. Pixelated and/or very blotchy. Is it a setting I can adjust, or just the apps fault? I have 100MBps internet, 5G. Looking for advice. Thanks in advance!


----------



## RadiantHT

sinseven said:


> Recently got a 5040UB as my first projector. Have an apple 4k TV and movies from it looks amazing. However, If I tried streaming AMC Walking Dead from their app this week, and watched shows on Netflix (HD level), dark/black screens look insanely bad. Pixelated and/or very blotchy. Is it a setting I can adjust, or just the apps fault? I have 100MBps internet, 5G. Looking for advice. Thanks in advance!


Dark scenes on Walking Dead look bad on every projector and TV I've ever owned.


----------



## jt7272

sinseven said:


> Recently got a 5040UB as my first projector. Have an apple 4k TV and movies from it looks amazing. However, If I tried streaming AMC Walking Dead from their app this week, and watched shows on Netflix (HD level), dark/black screens look insanely bad. Pixelated and/or very blotchy. Is it a setting I can adjust, or just the apps fault? I have 100MBps internet, 5G. Looking for advice. Thanks in advance!


The 5040/6040 has good contrast performance. With a proper screen and light control you will find that almost all streaming video looks like trash in the blacks. Dark colors are where they hide a lot of the compression. How else can they fit a 100+ GB movie into a stream that will total something like 25 GB max?

Also, you will find that different streaming sources provide different levels of compression and quality. Now that you have good contrast performance on a big screen you will be able to discern these differences.


----------



## RadiantHT

jt7272 said:


> The 5040/6040 has good contrast performance. With a proper screen and light control you will find that almost all streaming video looks like trash in the blacks. Dark colors are where they hide a lot of the compression. How else can they fit a 100+ GB movie into a stream that will total something like 25 GB max?
> 
> Also, you will find that different streaming sources provide different levels of compression and quality. Now that you have good contrast performance on a big screen you will be able to discern these differences.


This is exactly why I hate DirecTV however I don't see how I can cut the cord. When you use 120 inch or larger projection screen, it tends to blow up all video artifacts and illuminate bad quality sources. The usual compression from online streaming looks like absolute trash on a large projection screen. Just no way to get around that.


----------



## MJ DOOM

RadiantHT said:


> jt7272 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The 5040/6040 has good contrast performance. With a proper screen and light control you will find that almost all streaming video looks like trash in the blacks. Dark colors are where they hide a lot of the compression. How else can they fit a 100+ GB movie into a stream that will total something like 25 GB max?
> 
> Also, you will find that different streaming sources provide different levels of compression and quality. Now that you have good contrast performance on a big screen you will be able to discern these differences.
> 
> 
> 
> This is exactly why I hate DirecTV however I don't see how I can cut the cord. When you use 120 inch or larger projection screen, it tends to blow up all video artifacts and illuminate bad quality sources. The usual compression from online streaming looks like absolute trash on a large projection screen. Just no way to get around that.
Click to expand...

On live sports it's the worst. Can't stand Fox on NFL Sundays. NBA on TNT is trash too. Just too much compression.


----------



## Aardawg

I have an Epson 5040ub Projector and a Denon AVRS530BT 5.2 Channel Full 4K Ultra HD AV Receiver. I have an Xbox One X and a PS4 connected to the receiver with one HDMI cable going up to the projector. For almost 2 years this set up has worked fine.

Lately, however, when I'm playing the PS4 (Input on Denon Switched to PS4). Every 10-15 minutes or so suddenly the screen will go blank and I'll hear a sound I believe coming from the Denon Receiver that sounds like it's switching inputs. The Denon Receiver is not switching inputs or turning off however so I thin k the issue may be with the projector. The blank screen lasts for maybe 5-10 seconds and then its back on and everything is fine.

I am completely baffled as to why this is happening. Like I sad I've had this same setup and nothing has changed for almost 2 years. Why would this be suddenly happening? I don't know if it's an issue with the receiver or with the projector. When I have the Xbox One X on (Input on Xbox One) there are no issues.

Anyone have any ideas why this would be happening? Why would the PS4 work fine for almost 2 years and now this issue comes out of nowhere? And why does the Xbox One X work fine with no issues?


----------



## S.Mclennan

Have you tried swapping the cables and ports around to try and isolate a bad component?


----------



## Juiced46

MJ DOOM said:


> On live sports it's the worst. Can't stand Fox on NFL Sundays. NBA on TNT is trash too. Just too much compression.


I agree. Football broadcasts just look so damn bad. 



Aardawg said:


> I have an Epson 5040ub Projector and a Denon AVRS530BT 5.2 Channel Full 4K Ultra HD AV Receiver. I have an Xbox One X and a PS4 connected to the receiver with one HDMI cable going up to the projector. For almost 2 years this set up has worked fine.
> 
> Lately, however, when I'm playing the PS4 (Input on Denon Switched to PS4). Every 10-15 minutes or so suddenly the screen will go blank and I'll hear a sound I believe coming from the Denon Receiver that sounds like it's switching inputs. The Denon Receiver is not switching inputs or turning off however so I thin k the issue may be with the projector. The blank screen lasts for maybe 5-10 seconds and then its back on and everything is fine.
> 
> I am completely baffled as to why this is happening. Like I sad I've had this same setup and nothing has changed for almost 2 years. Why would this be suddenly happening? I don't know if it's an issue with the receiver or with the projector. When I have the Xbox One X on (Input on Xbox One) there are no issues.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas why this would be happening? Why would the PS4 work fine for almost 2 years and now this issue comes out of nowhere? And why does the Xbox One X work fine with no issues?


It sounds like a cable issue. I would swap your Xbox and PS4 HDMI cables and see what happens. Also do you have ARC on or off on the Denon?


----------



## terminal33

Evan201 said:


> The new Panasonic UB820 UHD player is an amazing way to brighten up HDR. I leave the dynamic range on the epson in Auto (not auto-bright) and crank up the dynamic range slider on the Panny to +4 or +8 depending on the movie. The HDR optimizer keeps the highlights from clipping on the fly with the static HDR10. Its really the best I've seen the epson perform. Better than the Nvidia Shield TV HDR I'm getting from apps there. Way more HDR control and the optimizer is really slick. Best pairing you can put with the Epson in my opinion.


I just got the UB820 and was wondering if you've tried sending the SDR2020 signal instead of HDR2020 to the Epson. I know some people believe that is better for our projector so I was curious if you've compared the two. Also, are you still using the above settings for HDR viewing? Thanks!


----------



## Alex Hindman

Does anyone have any insight into how the 5040/upcoming 5050 competes on a black levels/contrast front with the Sony 295es? Would love to save the coin, but if it is a gap, I may just need to pony up. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## RadiantHT

Alex Hindman said:


> Does anyone have any insight into how the 5040/upcoming 5050 competes on a black levels/contrast front with the Sony 295es? Would love to save the coin, but if it is a gap, I may just need to pony up. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


The Sony 295ES has measured between 10,000:1 and 15,000:1 native contrast. The Epson 5050 has measured close to 5000:1 native contrast.


----------



## joel dickman

*sony v. epson contrast*



RadiantHT said:


> The Sony 295ES has measured between 10,000:1 and 15,000:1 native contrast. The Epson 5050 has measured close to 5000:1 native contrast.


The Epson has both a manual and a dynamic iris. The Sony lacks both. Engage the dynamic iris on the Epson and the contrast should be similar to the Sony. _Some_ people dislike using a dynamic iris because they notice it in action ("pumping"), and this pulls them out of the movie watching experience. _Most_ viewers like the Epson dynamic iris. 

The feather in the cap of the Sony is not better contrast than the Epson, but native 4K panels. The Epson is still a pixel shifter. If you are a heavy-duty 4K gamer this advantage of the Sony may be significant. For movie watching at normal distances, likely not. 

There are in-depth reviews of the Sony 295 and the Epson 5040 on both the *Projector Central *and* Projector Reviews *sites. The main difference between the Epson 5040 and the new 5050 is the newer projector's 18gbps HDMI ports, good for 4K gaming and streaming.

Happy viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## BrightBlade

*Figured it out.*

I cannot figure out how to force the projector to display everything in 4K, to upconvert. Any ideas on how to do it? The 4K Enhancement feature is greyed out.

I cannot think of how to format my search statement!


EDIT: Nevermind, I did a firmware update and everything now works.


----------



## RadiantHT

joel dickman said:


> The Epson has both a manual and a dynamic iris. The Sony lacks both. Engage the dynamic iris on the Epson and the contrast should be similar to the Sony. _Some_ people dislike using a dynamic iris because they notice it in action ("pumping"), and this pulls them out of the movie watching experience. _Most_ viewers like the Epson dynamic iris.
> 
> The feather in the cap of the Sony is not better contrast than the Epson, but native 4K panels. The Epson is still a pixel shifter. If you are a heavy-duty 4K gamer this advantage of the Sony may be significant. For movie watching at normal distances, likely not.
> 
> There are in-depth reviews of the Sony 295 and the Epson 5040 on both the *Projector Central *and* Projector Reviews *sites. The main difference between the Epson 5040 and the new 5050 is the newer projector's 18gbps HDMI ports, good for 4K gaming and streaming.
> 
> Happy viewing,
> Joel Dickman


I've owned both projectors so I'm familiar with their advantages and disadvantages. But thanks for the info. I'm sure it will help others here.


----------



## dimi123

RadiantHT said:


> The Sony 295ES has measured between 10,000:1 and 15,000:1 native contrast. The Epson 5050 has measured close to 5000:1 native contrast.





joel dickman said:


> The Epson has both a manual and a dynamic iris. The Sony lacks both. Engage the dynamic iris on the Epson and the contrast should be similar to the Sony. _Some_ people dislike using a dynamic iris because they notice it in action ("pumping"), and this pulls them out of the movie watching experience. _Most_ viewers like the Epson dynamic iris.


RadiantHT, according to Cine4Home, the Epson has a max native contrast of 6700-7000:1 when calibrated, which is even higher than on the Sony 45ES. :wink: I know, we are talking about the 295ES here.

Here are Chris Eberle's measurements for the Epson 6040UB with dynamic iris on: 
''the max white is 57.267fL, the black level is .0017 and the contrast ratio is an impressive 33,595.7:1.''

The pumping of the dynamic iris is only visible on high setting, on normal there is no pumping during a movie, only occasionally on full fade to black.


----------



## RedPills4All

*Roku Ultra Jittery*

Hey guys, just got a Roku Ultra. Seems to work pretty well. I have it set to Auto for the video output settings, and it comes across as 4k HDR on the Epson. So that all works well. But I have noticed during certain shows/movies on multiple apps (HBO Now, Showtime Anytime, etc...) that the pic is very jittery. It's not the Internet connection. I'm hardwired to a 300Mbps connection, and I have done multiple speed tests. Also, some content seems to stream fine (so it's intermittent to a degree). I can't turn on Frame Interpolation because the option is grayed out (as the Roku is pushing 4k HDR). Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## SuperMiguel

Thinking about picking up this projector for $1999 from best buy (match price amazon)... is this projector still worth it? if so Should i get the bestbuy 2 year extended warranty? (extra $229.99)

Anything else to consider around the same price?


----------



## Tweakophyte

SuperMiguel said:


> Thinking about picking up this projector for $1999 from best buy (match price amazon)... is this projector still worth it? if so Should i get the bestbuy 2 year extended warranty? (extra $229.99)
> 
> Anything else to consider around the same price?


That is the new "standard" price. I am not sure, but there may be a rebate for a free bulb still available (again, standard offer). I got mine a few months ago after being tired of waiting, and also got the extended warranty. The warranty I got came with a spare bulb as well. I rarely get an extended warranty, but given the handful of people that have had power supply issues I thought it would be prudent. 
People love this PJ when it works, and I have had zero regrets.


----------



## sddp

SuperMiguel said:


> Thinking about picking up this projector for $1999 from best buy (match price amazon)... is this projector still worth it? if so Should i get the bestbuy 2 year extended warranty? (extra $229.99)
> 
> Anything else to consider around the same price?




Wow that's a great price, I bought mine black Friday in 2016 and have had no issues at all. The only thing the warranty does is give you an I don't care attitude. Anything goes wrong, you just put it in the back of the car and take it in, and if they can't fix it, you get a new one.
If you do get the warranty, I STRONGY suggest you get it on an American Express. 
1) at best buy you get points. so with tax and warranty, that's around $2500 worth of cash back
2) Amex gives you points, depending on your card can be up to %5, that's a lot of cash back in your pocket
3) Amex add 1 full additional year of warranty, so in essence you're getting 3 years
4) you become an elite member


The cash back is net, so the whole thing can actually come out to less


----------



## SuperMiguel

Tweakophyte said:


> That is the new "standard" price. I am not sure, but there may be a rebate for a free bulb still available (again, standard offer). I got mine a few months ago after being tired of waiting, and also got the extended warranty. The warranty I got came with a spare bulb as well. I rarely get an extended warranty, but given the handful of people that have had power supply issues I thought it would be prudent.
> People love this PJ when it works, and I have had zero regrets.


you bought the warranty directly from epson? $250? 

Also they still have that rebate going: https://epson.com/estore-rebate

"Purchase a Home Cinema 5040UB (V11H713020) or 5040UBe (V11H714020) projector and receive one projector lamp (V13H010L89) back by mail.

Product must be purchased between 4/1/19 and 5/31/19. 
Claims must be postmarked within 30 days from the purchase date."


----------



## Tweakophyte

SuperMiguel said:


> you bought the warranty directly from epson? $250?
> 
> Also they still have that rebate going: https://epson.com/estore-rebate
> 
> "Purchase a Home Cinema 5040UB (V11H713020) or 5040UBe (V11H714020) projector and receive one projector lamp (V13H010L89) back by mail.
> 
> Product must be purchased between 4/1/19 and 5/31/19.
> Claims must be postmarked within 30 days from the purchase date."


I want to be careful to avoid price talk.
I bought the SquareTrade warranty from the place I purchased it from. There are many authorized retailers to choose from, and each has their own warranty. Many are SqTrade. I think BB is Geek Squad... etc. You have to choose where you want to buy from (including many of the forum sponsors).


----------



## RedPills4All

Anyone have issues with the Roku streaming 4K/HDR with a jittery picture? My connection is hard-wired and very fast. Get jittery pic, and can't enable frame interpolation because it's grayed out (due to 4k signal being received I surmise).


----------



## lessthanjoey2

SuperMiguel said:


> Thinking about picking up this projector for $1999 from best buy (match price amazon)... is this projector still worth it? if so Should i get the bestbuy 2 year extended warranty? (extra $229.99)
> 
> Anything else to consider around the same price?


I did extra 2-year warranty through squaretrade from Amazon ("4 year extended warranty") for $61...


----------



## SuperMiguel

lessthanjoey2 said:


> I did extra 2-year warranty through squaretrade from Amazon ("4 year extended warranty") for $61...


now is 3 years for $50... def worth it to me just by reading all the issues with power supply.

But the question is to wait few months for new version to hit the stores or buy now


----------



## Archaea

I just picked up a Epson 5040UB. I need a 4K HDR cable length 40'.

Any recommendations?

Found this online - seems to have pretty decent reviews, but it reviews are mixed in with a bunch of different lengths which always sets the caution flag.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWTD5NG/ref=psdc_3236443011_t4_B07D6KJFT3


----------



## roland6465

Archaea said:


> I just picked up a Epson 5040UB. I need a 4K HDR cable length 40'.
> 
> Any recommendations?
> 
> Found this online - seems to have pretty decent reviews, but it reviews are mixed in with a bunch of different lengths which always sets the caution flag.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWTD5NG/ref=psdc_3236443011_t4_B07D6KJFT3



For that length run, you'll be better off with a fiber HDMI cable. I use this one from Sewell.


----------



## Archaea

My refurb 5040UB just came in. I was hoping for something like JVC RS600 level blacks (Which I demoed in my room in 2017, but decided I didn't want to afford), this hope based on the Epson's 1,000,000:1 contrast ratio. In reality, I knew it wouldn't quite be JVC level black from everything you read here, but I was hoping for something of a middle ground since my 2012 Panasonic AE8000U is rated at half that contrast, 500,000:1. 
I understand that rating is with dynamic iris on both Panasonic and Epson, and probably way overstated on each --- but -- out of the box on the stock presets this projector has just about the same black level, perhaps even worse, black than my Panasonic AE8000U - IMO. Would someone be so kind to direct me to a couple key settings to juggle and see if I can lower the black floor to something I can become more excited about?

Setup is in my sig. I was expecting to really see a nice uptick from my Panasonic out of the box, but it's more like a hmm - it's different, but not clearly better. Maybe my expectations were too high. Clearly sharper? Heck yes. (legitimately perhaps too much), the Epson is brighter too. But in regards to me thinking wow this was worth even the deep discount I bought it at? Not so much -- out of the box anyway.


I used my lunch hour to play with it a bit. I'll continue to dial it in after work. As for a second opinion, after I had it all setup and was scratching my head a bit, I called my 7 year old daughter down to tell me which projector she liked better, this new one or my old one that I usually use. I played a few demo clips for her, and didn't lead her answer in anyway. She had been upstairs while I initially set it up. After the couple clips she responded that she liked my old one. 


I fully suspect I can dial it in more. It maybe be fiddling with brightness or contrast (currently just defaulted to 50 and 50). I'm not hitting the panic button yet, just soliciting some easy best practices or go to guides. 

It's got two dust blobs on screen, at the current distance I temporarily set it up at, which is about three foot closer to the screen than were it will be mounted, so hopefuly those won't be seen when mounted at the correct distance as the lens focus changes.
The sharpness/focus seems really good with 1080p media. I've not hooked it up to a desktop PC yet to verify focus uniformity across the whole image, but the setup pattern looked nice and clean across the whole screen so I expect that'll not be a problem. 


I've not put a 4K disk in yet because my HDMI cable doesn't support 4K. I ordered a new HDMI cable which should also be arriving today. Hopefully then I can try 4k. Thus far in my brief demo, I only tried the ScubaSteve 1080P demo disk.


----------



## carp

Archaea said:


> My refurb 5040UB just came in. I was hoping for something like JVC RS600 level blacks (Which I demoed in my room in 2017), based on the Epson's 1,000,000:1 contrast ratio. I knew it wouldn't quite be JVC level black, but I was hoping for something of a middle ground since my Panasonic is 500,000:1. I understand that rating is with dynamic iris on both Panasonic and Epson, and probably way overstated --- but -- out of the box on the stock presets this projector has just about the same black level, perhaps even worse, black than my Panasonic AE8000U. IMO. Would someone be so kind to direct me to a couple key settings to juggle and see if I can lower the black floor to something I can become excited about?
> 
> Setup is in my sig. I was expecting to really see a nice uptick from my Panasonic out of the box, but it's more like a hmm - it's different, but not clearly better. Maybe my expectations were too high. Clearly sharper? Heck yes. (legitimately perhaps too much) Clearly a better picture that makes me think wow this was worth it? not so much..... So far anyway. I used my lunch hour to play with it a bit. I'll continue to dial it in after work.





As far as dialing it in... I have tried it all. Every setting on this thread I've probably fiddled with at least a couple times - well, except for the more recent ones - because I've decided I just like the out of the box "bright cinema" better than anything I've tried. On my screen it looks like a vibrant/huge LCD almost and is sharp as a tack and the blacks are very good (not JVC blacks but easily good enough for my taste). 

However, it could be that your screen is brighter than mine so you indeed do have to dial it in to get the blacks darker - or - it could be that my eyes are screwed up and no one in their right mind would want the image to look like how I like it. 

As we talked about, I would be shocked if this unit was actually in good working order since it is refurbished. A refurbished Epson just means that it's a returned unit that had a problem, and Epson responds to that by sending out another refurbished unit that has a different problem and I guess they hope the customer doesn't notice? Rinse and repeat, they keep doing this until you actually get a new one. Maybe in the case of a purchased refurbished projector they actually repair the problem? I'd be surprised though...

Long story short you are probably like most people in this thread that will really like HarperVision (Dave Harper's settings) or Oledurt's settings for HDR and I can't remember what the most popular settings are for SDR which is what you are most interested in at this moment since you don't have a 4k player yet. All of the settings I have tried end up looking too dark/dim for my taste but like I said, it's probably either my screen, my taste, or a combination of the two. 

Come over with your new toy and we will compare and make sure you have a good working projector with no issues, and we could also see if my screen looks a lot different with the 5040 than your screen does. In my room the Panasonic you had (remember I bought one a few years ago) looked dark, I just couldn't get enough pop out of it.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Archaea said:


> I understand that rating is with dynamic iris on both Panasonic and Epson, and probably way overstated on each --- but -- out of the box on the stock presets this projector has just about the same black level, perhaps even worse, black than my Panasonic AE8000U - IMO. Would someone be so kind to direct me to a couple key settings to juggle and see if I can lower the black floor to something I can become more excited about?


I measured a native contrast ratio of about 8000:1, and others in the Epson HDR thread couldn’t get even that.


----------



## dimi123

Archaea said:


> Would someone be so kind to direct me to a couple key settings to juggle and see if I can lower the black floor to something I can become more excited about?


Color Mode: Natural
Power Consumption: ECO
Auto Iris: Normal
Gamma: -2
Epson Super White: On
Lens Iris: -20

That's the deepest black you can get, but it might be a bit dim if you don't have a bat cave. Open up the Lens Iris, if it's to dim.


----------



## RedPills4All

I think I figured out how to fix the jittery Roku playback if anyone else is having the same problem. In the advanced menu on the Roku there's an option to auto-adjust the display refresh rate. When I enabled this it seemed to fix the problem, and now the video is smooth. Hope this helps someone else!

Also, I have searched and searched but can't seem to find out how to get HDR BT2020 to output from the Roku. From what I can tell on the forums (not entirely clear to me) I need the HD Fury Linker for this due to the bit depth that the Roku sends? I swear when I first got this thing it was showing HDR BT2020 on the info screen and now no matter what settings I choose I can't get it to output HDR. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## john hunter

Heard from Stacy at Spears and Munsil that their UHD test disc should be out end of May.
I know some users here will be interested.


----------



## avtoronto

*New Epsons*

5050UB and 6050UB announced today: https://news.epson.com/news/4k-diy-home-theater-projectors


----------



## monkaquinas

Has anyone seen this? I contacted Epson Support to get them to give us NITS for each Color Mode and they gave me these since it's been like a month.

This number is NITS for each HDR mode. Please refer to below.

Auto(Bright) :HDR1
Auto :HDR2
HDR1 :300
HDR2 :500
HDR3 :1,000
HDR4 :4,000


----------



## AdamAttewell

monkaquinas said:


> Has anyone seen this? I contacted Epson Support to get them to give us NITS for each Color Mode and they gave me these since it's been like a month.
> 
> This number is NITS for each HDR mode. Please refer to below.
> 
> Auto(Bright) :HDR1
> Auto :HDR2
> HDR1 :300
> HDR2 :500
> HDR3 :1,000
> HDR4 :4,000



Yes these figures are where each mode clips, its been know for a while now.


----------



## monkaquinas

AdamAttewell said:


> Yes these figures are where each mode clips, its been know for a while now.


Oh well, so much for me actually contributing something useful to the thread.


----------



## RedPills4All

monkaquinas said:


> Oh well, so much for me actually contributing something useful to the thread.


It's always useful to post info like this, so thank you! Up until now I had never seen it on this thread. Searching isn't exactly robust in these forums.

So what does this tell us? Do higher nits equate to better PQ or is it dependent on a million different factors like everything else with projectors.


----------



## (Cinema-Scope)

Hi everyone, I’m using a 5040UB on on a 88” high 206” wide screen. The results I have so far are pretty good, but I’m new to calibration. I’m using HCFR with a color munki meter. The screen I’m using is commercial grade. I’m unaware of the gain. 
I’m trying to learn about Harpervision to test the HDR results I can get. 709 content looks great after little calibration. But I want to learn more about this projector. Its a bit confusing in some areas. On previous projectors I was used to color temp being displayed as D65, or 6500K. Being an owner of a 35mm projector, I’ve always preferred the warmer color look. 
On the Epson 5040, color temp is displayed as 1-10. I don’t have the slightest idea what D65 would be. 
And gamma is 2 through -2. But what equates to a 2.2 gamma like other projectors have ?
I feel like not knowing these, is giving me inaccurate results with HCFR calibrations. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


----------



## TSHA222

(Cinema-Scope) said:


> Hi everyone, I’m using a 5040UB on on a 88” high 206” wide screen. The results I have so far are pretty good, but I’m new to calibration. I’m using HCFR with a color munki meter. The screen I’m using is commercial grade. I’m unaware of the gain.
> I’m trying to learn about Harpervision to test the HDR results I can get. 709 content looks great after little calibration. But I want to learn more about this projector. Its a bit confusing in some areas. On previous projectors I was used to color temp being displayed as D65, or 6500K. Being an owner of a 35mm projector, I’ve always preferred the warmer color look.
> On the Epson 5040, color temp is displayed as 1-10. I don’t have the slightest idea what D65 would be.
> And gamma is 2 through -2. But what equates to a 2.2 gamma like other projectors have ?
> I feel like not knowing these, is giving me inaccurate results with HCFR calibrations.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


Good to see someone as crazy as me. I’m running a 6030ub with ISCO IIIL on a 16’ wide scope and love it. I’m using a perfed screen from Harkness with a gain of app. 1.6 of I remember correctly. My new home is under construction though and I’m going to be pushing whatever I get to the max with a 20’ wide scope screen. Initially I’m looking at a 5050 since I love what my current older gen Epson puts out.


----------



## AdamAttewell

scottjwoodford said:


> It's always useful to post info like this, so thank you! Up until now I had never seen it on this thread. Searching isn't exactly robust in these forums.
> 
> So what does this tell us? Do higher nits equate to better PQ or is it dependent on a million different factors like everything else with projectors.



These figures just show that each HDR mode has a different clipping point, i.e for HDR1 for example everything above 300 is clipped/cut off.


Seeing as these projector cant get anywhere near 1000 nits trying to reach it is just going to dim the picture as the projector tries to achieve this target.


So clipping at 300 nits or 400 nits will produce a brighter picture which is preferred by most & is at minimal loss of picture quality as only the higher nit content is clipped which is normally only a fraction of the total content displayed like specular highlights.



These projectors cant really do HDR but some of the custom gamma curves in this thread really do a good at getting the most out of whats available.


This is my understanding anyway I am sure someone more knowledgeable will be able to provide more insight.


----------



## (Cinema-Scope)

TSHA222 said:


> (Cinema-Scope) said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everyone, I’m using a 5040UB on on a 88” high 206” wide screen. The results I have so far are pretty good, but I’m new to calibration. I’m using HCFR with a color munki meter. The screen I’m using is commercial grade. I’m unaware of the gain.
> I’m trying to learn about Harpervision to test the HDR results I can get. 709 content looks great after little calibration. But I want to learn more about this projector. Its a bit confusing in some areas. On previous projectors I was used to color temp being displayed as D65, or 6500K. Being an owner of a 35mm projector, I’ve always preferred the warmer color look.
> On the Epson 5040, color temp is displayed as 1-10. I don’t have the slightest idea what D65 would be.
> And gamma is 2 through -2. But what equates to a 2.2 gamma like other projectors have ?
> I feel like not knowing these, is giving me inaccurate results with HCFR calibrations.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Good to see someone as crazy as me. I’m running a 6030ub with ISCO IIIL on a 16’ wide scope and love it. I’m using a perfed screen from Harkness with a gain of app. 1.6 of I remember correctly. My new home is under construction though and I’m going to be pushing whatever I get to the max with a 20’ wide scope screen. Initially I’m looking at a 5050 since I love what my current older gen Epson puts out.
Click to expand...


Nice, what settings are you using for your projector ? And what are you using to calibrate it with ?


----------



## TSHA222

(Cinema-Scope) said:


> Nice, what settings are you using for your projector ? And what are you using to calibrate it with ?


Well to be honest, I haven’t really done much with regards to calibrating. I bought the 6030 as a temporary replacement for an older DPI Mercury 3 Chip DLP that I had for the theater. It started acting up and I had people coming over for a Super Bowl party and I was worried it would bite it at the worst time. Over 3 years later and the Epson is still the projector we’re using. But we are building a house which will have a new theater and new projector. That projector will get calibrated which is why I’m following all these Epson threads in anticipation of getting the new room finished.


----------



## VideoDrone

*Question?*

I have a question for 5040ub owners. What is the distance between the front and rear feet measured at the center of each feet? I have a rear shelf that is smaller than the depth of the projector, but it might fit depending on where the feet are located at


----------



## RedPills4All

AdamAttewell said:


> These figures just show that each HDR mode has a different clipping point, i.e for HDR1 for example everything above 300 is clipped/cut off.
> 
> 
> Seeing as these projector cant get anywhere near 1000 nits trying to reach it is just going to dim the picture as the projector tries to achieve this target.
> 
> 
> So clipping at 300 nits or 400 nits will produce a brighter picture which is preferred by most & is at minimal loss of picture quality as only the higher nit content is clipped which is normally only a fraction of the total content displayed like specular highlights.
> 
> 
> 
> These projectors cant really do HDR but some of the custom gamma curves in this thread really do a good at getting the most out of whats available.
> 
> 
> This is my understanding anyway I am sure someone more knowledgeable will be able to provide more insight.


This is great, thanks for the explanation. Very helpful!


----------



## tomd51

VideoDrone said:


> I have a question for 5040ub owners. What is the distance between the front and rear feet measured at the center of each feet? I have a rear shelf that is smaller than the depth of the projector, but it might fit depending on where the feet are located at


 There are no rear feet, only two front feet which measure 17 1/8" on center.


----------



## ShadowBoy

Hi, I am over on the Epson 5050 thread and we were trying to remember the setting/adjustment that someone came up with to remove the ghosting problem the 5040 sometimes had. Was it the 3D depth adjustment or some other setting. I just can't remember. Help us out, brains trust.


----------



## RedPills4All

Can someone recommend a good ISF calibrator in Northern VA?


----------



## sddp

Need advice on any issues upgrading to a 2:35?


I've had a 16:9 150" Cinegrey 3D screen from the day I bought the 5040ube when it first came out. Full blown dark theater for Movies once a week and gaming (Mostly Star Wars battle front I & II)
Seems every singe movie is in 2:35 format. When ever game or watch anything in 16:9, the screen fills up perfectly. On 2:35 the projector automatically fills from side to side with black bars on top and bottom and I never have to adjust anything. So I am planing on upgrading to a 175" 2:35 (reason going that big is to retain the same height that I have with my 16:9).

My concern and question is once I go 2:35, do I have to constantly change memory positions when playing anything in the 16:9 format and then again when playing a 2:35? or will it be automatic like it is now?


----------



## WynsWrld98

ShadowBoy said:


> Hi, I am over on the Epson 5050 thread and we were trying to remember the setting/adjustment that someone came up with to remove the ghosting problem the 5040 sometimes had. Was it the 3D depth adjustment or some other setting. I just can't remember. Help us out, brains trust.


Reduce 3D Depth setting


----------



## seplant

ShadowBoy said:


> Hi, I am over on the Epson 5050 thread and we were trying to remember the setting/adjustment that someone came up with to remove the ghosting problem the 5040 sometimes had. Was it the 3D depth adjustment or some other setting. I just can't remember. Help us out, brains trust.


Reducing 3D depth and brightness definitely helps but what made the biggest difference for me was turning off the auto iris. Ghosting was horrendous for me with the auto iris on. Beautiful without.


----------



## Xavier3

Just received my recently purchased 5040UB two days ago. I’ve been running an Optoma HD25E for the last 5 years, and been very happy with it. It was better contrast wise and had deeper blacks than its peers, like the Benq 1070. I was able use settings from another user that made the skin tones very nice. 

This Epson is in a whole another league however. It has a pop to the image that makes it look like a giant plasma screen. Could be the very high end lens and high ANSI contrast (Cine4home measured 412:1). It is enormous, but gorgeous. The blacks, contrast, and brightness is a huge step up from my HD25e. I tried the Iris (fast mode) on last night for an hour, and didn’t notice it even once. I’m usually quite sensitive to brightness pumping, but noticed none in my brief time. Very impressed!

Unfortunately, my Optoma ZF2100 3D glasses would not sync with the Epson. Any recommendations on 3D glasses that are reasonably priced? I think I’ll keep my DLP PJ though, as the 3D on it was flawless, but I’m curious to try the Epson as it seems it would be brighter. I wear prescription glasses already, so looking for ones that can fit overtop comfortably (the ZF2100 are very good this way). Any recommendations would be most welcome 

Also, anyone use an Amazon 4K Fire Stick with this PJ? That’s the only 4K capable device I have, and not sure if its worth trying. I have a Nvidia Shield TV, but its for the living room duty only and I’m not allowed to take it. 

Anyone use an HTPC and MADVR to do HDR on this Epson? Seems like I need to upgrade to a minimum 1070 video card to do it justice. It’s a shame, as I won’t be doing any gaming, so seems like a waste of such a fast video card. Opinions welcome!


----------



## n4xxr76

ShadowBoy said:


> Hi, I am over on the Epson 5050 thread and we were trying to remember the setting/adjustment that someone came up with to remove the ghosting problem the 5040 sometimes had. Was it the 3D depth adjustment or some other setting. I just can't remember. Help us out, brains trust.




I took screenshots of what helped fix the ghosting/crosstalk issues for me.




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## (Cinema-Scope)

Does anyone know the conversion for the gamma and color temp ?
For example, on previous projectors, you would see 2.0, 2.2, 1.8, etc for gamma. Now its 2,1,0,-1,-2
With color temp, it used to be D65 or 6500K. Now its 1 - 10


Anyone have some ideas ? 
Thanks


----------



## jbrazda

*HDMI 1 Went Bad*

Purchased the 5040 on 4/18/17. So I'm in warranty by 5 days. I used the projector last weekend, everything was fine. I use it almost every weekend, never a problem. Tonight, I go to use, and it says no signal, no matter what I do. Move the HDMI cord over to input 2, and it works. Anyone ever seen this issue? I'll call Epson as soon as they are open. But in the mean time, I went to their website to check the warranty status, and it says it expired on 2/27/19. Reading their warranty, it says 2 years from purchase date. I have the reciept dated 4/18/17 from projector people. I'm assuming they will use that date? Any other advise?


----------



## jdtsmith

sddp said:


> Need advice on any issues upgrading to a 2:35?
> 
> 
> I've had a 16:9 150" Cinegrey 3D screen from the day I bought the 5040ube when it first came out. Full blown dark theater for Movies once a week and gaming (Mostly Star Wars battle front I & II)
> Seems every singe movie is in 2:35 format. When ever game or watch anything in 16:9, the screen fills up perfectly. On 2:35 the projector automatically fills from side to side with black bars on top and bottom and I never have to adjust anything. So I am planing on upgrading to a 175" 2:35 (reason going that big is to retain the same height that I have with my 16:9).
> 
> My concern and question is once I go 2:35, do I have to constantly change memory positions when playing anything in the 16:9 format and then again when playing a 2:35? or will it be automatic like it is now?


Yes you’ll set Lens1 and Lens2 and switch between some. Usually I leave it 16:9 until we pick something, then switch to 2.35 lens setting if needed. I have velvet curtains I bring in when watching a 16:9 show. But you’ll love opening the curtains up for the wide feel. I’d never go away from CIH. If you’re the type of person that loads up an epic movie on a 16:9 TV and then is disappointed it’s *smaller* and has black bars, you’ll love it too.


----------



## tlogan6797

jdtsmith said:


> Yes you’ll set Lens1 and Lens2 and switch between some. Usually I leave it 16:9 until we pick something, then switch to 2.35 lens setting if needed. I have velvet curtains I bring in when watching a 16:9 show. But you’ll love opening the curtains up for the wide feel. I’d never go away from CIH. If you’re the type of person that loads up an epic movie on a 16:9 TV and then is disappointed it’s *smaller* and has black bars, you’ll love it too.


Agreed. The requirement to have to manually push the Lens Buttons is my biggest disappointment with this projector. Although I have the opposite issue...a 2.35 screen that I can fill and then when it changes to 16:9 it fills the width and the top and bottom are off the screen so I have to hit the lens button.

Again, my Panasonic 4000 auto detected the change in AR and switched lens position automatically...no button push required. So we KNOW it can be done, how do we request feature requests to Epson?


----------



## jdtsmith

tlogan6797 said:


> Agreed. The requirement to have to manually push the Lens Buttons is my biggest disappointment with this projector. Although I have the opposite issue...a 2.35 screen that I can fill and then when it changes to 16:9 it fills the width and the top and bottom are off the screen so I have to hit the lens button.
> 
> Again, my Panasonic 4000 auto detected the change in AR and switched lens position automatically...no button push required. So we KNOW it can be done, how do we request feature requests to Epson?


How does the Panasonic know the AR? By looking just for the black bars algorithmically? Because changing between lens settings is slow (~10sec), constant automatic changes based on input aspect ratio could get annoying, e.g. as you switch from AppleTV interface at 16:9 to a 2.35:1 movie, then change your mind, etc. I'd also be wary because my AV receiver puts, e.g., a volume change bar down below in the 2.35 letterbox area, which might confuse any algorithm. Would be nice if AR was encoded in the digital stream, but AFAIK it isn't. 

I just think of Lens setting as part of the general overhead to watching with a projector: check for SDR vs. HDR + HD vs. UHD, select an appropriate Memory settings slot, set the appropriate lens settings, adjust my curtains, etc. With 10 lens setting position, I've even seen intermediate 2:1 material, and can set accordingly. 

If lens changing were faster, it would also be cool to work for _any_ aspect ratio. Fix the placement and image height at native chip format (16:9), then tell the projector to always keep that height and placement the same (down to some AR).


----------



## (Cinema-Scope)

(Cinema-Scope) said:


> Does anyone know the conversion for the gamma and color temp ?
> For example, on previous projectors, you would see 2.0, 2.2, 1.8, etc for gamma. Now its 2,1,0,-1,-2
> With color temp, it used to be D65 or 6500K. Now its 1 - 10
> 
> 
> Anyone have some ideas ?
> Thanks


Anyone? Anybody?
I Can’t find any information on this through reviews, other sites, and even the manual.


----------



## tlogan6797

jdtsmith said:


> How does the Panasonic know the AR? By looking just for the black bars algorithmically? Because changing between lens settings is slow (~10sec), constant automatic changes based on input aspect ratio could get annoying, e.g. as you switch from AppleTV interface at 16:9 to a 2.35:1 movie, then change your mind, etc. I'd also be wary because my AV receiver puts, e.g., a volume change bar down below in the 2.35 letterbox area, which might confuse any algorithm. Would be nice if AR was encoded in the digital stream, but AFAIK it isn't.
> 
> I just think of Lens setting as part of the general overhead to watching with a projector: check for SDR vs. HDR + HD vs. UHD, select an appropriate Memory settings slot, set the appropriate lens settings, adjust my curtains, etc. With 10 lens setting position, I've even seen intermediate 2:1 material, and can set accordingly.
> 
> If lens changing were faster, it would also be cool to work for _any_ aspect ratio. Fix the placement and image height at native chip format (16:9), then tell the projector to always keep that height and placement the same (down to some AR).


I don't know, but I THINK the AR is embedded in the signal. And the Panny 4000 had that annoying AR changing message, too, but they made it configurable in the 5000. Actually the Panny had auto settings for 4:3 (that's how old it was!), 16:9 and 2:35. Then you could save others (10 more I think) but for those you would need to manually select them. Every once in a while a 240 AR would show up that had very thin gray bars at top and bottom, but didn't bother me enough to create a setting for it.


----------



## mkohman

Hi Guys, 

A friend of mine has just setup madVR on his HTPC for HDR dynamic tone mapping etc.. He has an Epson 9300 which I believe is a 5040ub model. Can someone who has the Epson recommend which settings to choose on the projector please? Thank you so much


----------



## WynsWrld98

mkohman said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> A friend of mine has just setup madVR on his HTPC for HDR dynamic tone mapping etc.. He has an Epson 9300 which I believe is a 5040ub model. Can someone who has the Epson recommend which settings to choose on the projector please? Thank you so much


I just bought a HTPC and am a 5040 owner, am intrigued. When I Google madVR tons of links come up, can you please let me know exact madVR to look for or a link to a download? When I go to MadVr's website here's what it says:

Media players supporting madVR: (sorted alphabetically)

· DVB Dream
· DVBViewer
· Fast Video Cataloger
· GameEx
· JRiver MediaCenter
· KMPlayer
· Kodi DSPlayer
· MediaPortal 1
· MPC-BE
· MPC-HC
· PotPlayer
· ProgDVB
· SmartDVB
· YAP
· Zoom Player


----------



## albo75

Hi folks,

Long time reader, first time poster. I took a chance with an official Epson refurb'd 5040UB and it arrived last week.

The difference between my previous Epson 8350 and this projector on a 130' screen is just mind blowing. Netflix's new "Our Planet" documentary series just jumps off the screen. It's practically eyeball melting!

That being said, I was cautious about a refurb and unfortunately soon noticed the following. See image below.










I'm assuming it's dust blobs? Or maybe something worse?

Advice on how to proceed?


----------



## KCWolfPck

Hello. I am in the process of setting up my home theater and just purchased the Epson 5040ub. I haven't mounted it or anything yet, but did project an image on the wall just to test out the projector. I am having difficulty getting HDR and am wondering if I am missing a setting or something.

I have tested with an Apple TV4k and an NVIDIA Shield TV, both running through a Marantz SR7010. I am using a 20m Ruipro Fiber HDMI Cable.

When I check video settings on the Apple TV4k, it was set to 60hz SDR. When I try to Enable HDR.....the screen goes blank, but then it times out and resets back to it's original settings.

I then ran the HDMI cable directly to the projector from the Apple TV4k (bypassing the Marantz SR7010). Same result.

I then moved the projector next to my components and used a 2m HDMI cable (high speed w/ ethernet) directly from the Apple TV4k to the projector. Same result.

I've not messed with my projector settings at all. I did check, and the Signal/Advanced settings are all set to auto (video range, color space, and dynamic range).


I am guessing that I am missing something, I just can't figure out what it is. Any thoughts? Thanks....


----------



## albo75

The 5040ub isn't able to handle 4K 60Hz HDR. The most you will get from the Apple TV 4K is 4K 60Hz SDR.

It will display 4K 24Hz HDR which is what most movies are encoded at.


----------



## KCWolfPck

albo75 said:


> The 5040ub isn't able to handle 4K 60Hz HDR. The most you will get from the Apple TV 4K is 4K 60Hz SDR.
> 
> It will display 4K 24Hz HDR which is what most movies are encoded at.


Ahhh.....thank you! At least now I know that my 20m HDMI cable works then.


----------



## --Sclaws

albo75 said:


> Hi folks,
> 
> Long time reader, first time poster. I took a chance with an official Epson refurb'd 5040UB and it arrived last week.
> 
> The difference between my previous Epson 8350 and this projector on a 130' screen is just mind blowing. Netflix's new "Our Planet" documentary series just jumps off the screen. It's practically eyeball melting!
> 
> That being said, I was cautious about a refurb and unfortunately soon noticed the following. See image below.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming it's dust blobs? Or maybe something worse?
> 
> Advice on how to proceed?


Personally I'd call Epson and request a replacement. If your refurb is still in warranty you should get a replacement, and Epson is really fast with shipping. I had to get a refurb 5040 myself after my 1st 5040 failed and the one they sent me was like-new and has performed perfectly. Unless its maybe a blob of dust on the outside of the lens, I'd not do anything (like blowing compressed air inside) at risk of making things worse.


----------



## albo75

Thanks for the suggestion. That was the direction I was heading in.

A few tiny specs here and there I could probably live with but not this.


----------



## albo75

So I called and was told there are no replacements to send. I have to wait for availability!


----------



## roland6465

albo75 said:


> So I called and was told there are no replacements to send. I have to wait for availability!


So you have to wait for someone else’s 5040 to break and hope they fix it properly. Brilliant, Epson.


----------



## albo75

I thought the same thing! We'll see what happens I guess.


----------



## seplant

jbrazda said:


> Purchased the 5040 on 4/18/17. So I'm in warranty by 5 days. I used the projector last weekend, everything was fine. I use it almost every weekend, never a problem. Tonight, I go to use, and it says no signal, no matter what I do. Move the HDMI cord over to input 2, and it works. Anyone ever seen this issue? I'll call Epson as soon as they are open. But in the mean time, I went to their website to check the warranty status, and it says it expired on 2/27/19. Reading their warranty, it says 2 years from purchase date. I have the reciept dated 4/18/17 from projector people. I'm assuming they will use that date? Any other advise?


The HDMI1 input stopped working on my 6040 after about a year. Epson sent me a refurb (actually two refurbs, the first had a dust blob), and I haven't had any issues since.


----------



## jbrazda

seplant said:


> The HDMI1 input stopped working on my 6040 after about a year. Epson sent me a refurb (actually two refurbs, the first had a dust blob), and I haven't had any issues since.




Yep. Called them yesterday. New one will be here tomorrow. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dataJunkie

mkohman said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> A friend of mine has just setup madVR on his HTPC for HDR dynamic tone mapping etc.. He has an Epson 9300 which I believe is a 5040ub model. Can someone who has the Epson recommend which settings to choose on the projector please? Thank you so much /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


JRiver user here. Has MadVR built in, highly recommend it.

If you have a surround system, JRiver does some wizardry in the audio department too.


----------



## mkohman

dataJunkie said:


> JRiver user here. Has MadVR built in, highly recommend it.
> 
> If you have a surround system, JRiver does some wizardry in the audio department too.


Do you know I have always been intrigued to try to setup Jriver but it seems to be very confusing. Is there a how to guide at all? Also does it play bdmv and iso files?

What kind of wizardry does it do in the audio department? I may need to look into jriver 

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk


----------



## bigbadbob

Are there any of you utilizing an app to control your 5040 from an iPad? Is there one? If so, is it any good?


----------



## jbrazda

bigbadbob said:


> Are there any of you utilizing an app to control your 5040 from an iPad? Is there one? If so, is it any good?




I can use an app on my phone or iPad to control my Logitech remote, than them controls my projector. I never use the app though. It’s easier just to use the Logitech remote. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## boblinds

dataJunkie said:


> JRiver user here. Has MadVR built in, highly recommend it.


I, too, experimented with a Kodi installation, adding MadVR support, but found the JRiver solution MUCH easier to implement and with very good results.


----------



## boblinds

mkohman said:


> Do you know I have always been intrigued to try to setup Jriver but it seems to be very confusing. Is there a how to guide at all? Also does it play bdmv and iso files?
> 
> What kind of wizardry does it do in the audio department? I may need to look into jriver
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk


If you use the Red October plug-in, it's very much plug and play in my experience.

https://wiki.jriver.com/index.php/Red_October


----------



## Xavier3

@boblinds & @dataJunkie

What video card are you guys using for your J-River + Madvr setup?

Mainly just looking to upgrade my GPU in order to use HDR auto tone mapping via MADVR (4K @24hz). Don’t really need extra image sharpening or enhancements, and definitely no gaming.


----------



## Archaea

albo75 said:


> So I called and was told there are no replacements to send. I have to wait for availability!




Called tonight and they had one on hand to send me. Try again


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

mkohman said:


> Do you know I have always been intrigued to try to setup Jriver but it seems to be very confusing. Is there a how to guide at all? Also does it play bdmv and iso files?
> 
> What kind of wizardry does it do in the audio department? I may need to look into jriver
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk


I gave up on JRiver and went with Plex a few months ago. What a difference. JRiver is like a science a project, and the UI, to me, is maddening. It's just not worth the time and frustration. Cheers.


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

bigbadbob said:


> Are there any of you utilizing an app to control your 5040 from an iPad? Is there one? If so, is it any good?


I use SimpleControl on my iPhone with their Ethernet IR blaster.


----------



## dataJunkie

mkohman said:


> dataJunkie said:
> 
> 
> 
> JRiver user here. Has MadVR built in, highly recommend it.
> 
> If you have a surround system, JRiver does some wizardry in the audio department too.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you know I have always been intrigued to try to setup Jriver but it seems to be very confusing. Is there a how to guide at all? Also does it play bdmv and iso files?
> 
> What kind of wizardry does it do in the audio department? I may need to look into jriver
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I've tried various platforms for playback - Plex, VLC, Windows MP, MP-HC etc, but every one lacked in the audio department compared to JRiver.

However they accomplish it, JRiver manages to squeeze so much more clarity and oomph out of the audio tracks than anything else I've tried. So much so that I've had to turn down my system a notch when running comparison tests.
It's not just pure volume tho, the detail within the audio, from bass management to the timbre of breaking glass, it's just so much more refined through JRiver.

Maybe it's because JRiver originally was for audiophile FLAC playback for music, dunno...but it certainly makes a difference to my ears. 

Ive a GTX1070, and their video processing manages to squeeze more depth in the picture too.

Yes, it can be a little overwhelming swimming in all the settings, but that to me is a tinkerers dream ...lol

There are plenty of guides to help you while away a weekend tweaking and optimising....https://wiki.jriver.com/index.php/MadVR_Expert_Guide


----------



## dataJunkie

Xavier3 said:


> @boblinds & @dataJunkie
> 
> What video card are you guys using for your J-River + Madvr setup?
> 
> Mainly just looking to upgrade my GPU in order to use HDR auto tone mapping via MADVR (4K @24hz). Don’t really need extra image sharpening or enhancements, and definitely no gaming.


I've a GTX1070, and JRiver works just fine with it. Rendering settings set to 'Jinc' with minimum additional optimisation. 

Few read-ahead buffers max's out and that's about it.

(The guide I posted earlier will give you a breakdown of the various Scaling Algos / Rendering options - Jinc, Bi-linear, Nearest Neighbour etc)


----------



## jdtsmith

bigbadbob said:


> Are there any of you utilizing an app to control your 5040 from an iPad? Is there one? If so, is it any good?


It's called Epson iProjection and is OK, but a little clunky. For example you can load memory slots, but the names you give them on the projector aren't shown in the app. If network connected, these projectors also respond to PJLINK commands, so any controller that offers PJLINK works. I have a simple Homebridge plugin that lets allows Siri to control the projector though PJLink. So far it's just for on/off, but PJLINK also allows switching inputs, etc.


----------



## bigbadbob

Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Willy212

I got a fire tv 4k but wont do 24hz.

I'm guessing i should get something like nvidia shield ?
I need something that runs android & allows apk.
Was watching game of thrones on hbo go but it was 8 bit.
any 4k/hdr device under 200$ that can do 10bit 4.2.2 etc?


----------



## boblinds

ComradeBrehznev said:


> I gave up on JRiver and went with Plex a few months ago. What a difference. JRiver is like a science a project, and the UI, to me, is maddening. It's just not worth the time and frustration. Cheers.


I can't disagree. JRiver's interface is inferior to both Kodi and Plex, IMO. But its audiovisual performance is far superior, also IMO.


----------



## boblinds

Xavier3 said:


> @boblinds & @dataJunkie
> 
> What video card are you guys using for your J-River + Madvr setup?
> 
> Mainly just looking to upgrade my GPU in order to use HDR auto tone mapping via MADVR (4K @24hz). Don’t really need extra image sharpening or enhancements, and definitely no gaming.


I'm using a 750 TI, but I'm only in 1080p, so that may not be helpful info for your situation.  I do have an i5 processor, however, which enables the high level of Red October plug-in performance.

My ideal configuration would be to use KODI as the frontend and JRiver as an external player, but for whatever reason, I've never had success realizing that configuration (though others seem to have done so successfully.)


----------



## spirithockey79

Interested in how many people have a Panny UB820 paired with the Epson, and what your settings are on the Epson for both HDR on the UB820 and SDR2020 on the UB820. Ive been reading various posts on the 820 forum about ensuring the projectors are set to 2.4 gamma when doing SDR2020 but not sure what settings on the Epson provide 2.4 gamma. Is it just a change in the gamma setting to like a -1 or -2, or is it a combination of this and choosing a color mode like Cinema, or even tweaking the HDR setting to an Auto 1 or Auto 2. 

Any guidance is greatly appreciated. As an FYI, I’ve tried all kinds of settings for this pj from Harpervision, Oledurt, etc. and while I do have some presets that I like I want to make sure I’m setting everything up correctly with the UB820.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Xavier3

Thank you boblinds and datajunkie! Looks like a 1070 is what I should be looking for, or the 1160ti I believe is another one that also offers YouTube HDR (not sure I’ll use that feature though.


----------



## Mr.G

spirithockey79 said:


> Interested in how many people have a Panny UB820 paired with the Epson, and what your settings are on the Epson for both HDR on the UB820 and SDR2020 on the UB820. Ive been reading various posts on the 820 forum about ensuring the projectors are set to 2.4 gamma when doing SDR2020 but not sure what settings on the Epson provide 2.4 gamma. Is it just a change in the gamma setting to like a -1 or -2, or is it a combination of this and choosing a color mode like Cinema, or even tweaking the HDR setting to an Auto 1 or Auto 2.
> 
> Any guidance is greatly appreciated. As an FYI, I’ve tried all kinds of settings for this pj from Harpervision, Oledurt, etc. and while I do have some presets that I like I want to make sure I’m setting everything up correctly with the UB820.


The majority of those posts in the 820 forum are referring to JVC projectors, not the Epsons.


----------



## spirithockey79

Mr.G said:


> The majority of those posts in the 820 forum are referring to JVC projectors, not the Epsons.




Agreed. But my understanding is that the 2.4 gamma recommendation isn’t limited to the JVC. Sounds like in order to have the tone mapping done properly with the 820 there are some specific pj settings required. That’s what I’m trying to nail down.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## timescape7

I am curious... if anyone did measure it. Is this model complying to 100% DCI-P3? what's the brightness as a result?


----------



## albo75

Archaea said:


> Called tonight and they had one on hand to send me. Try again


I did just that, they sent a replacement, and it's much better!


----------



## xbladr

I have had an issue where I turn on the projector after a day or so and the image has shifted about an inch lower. I first though that it was the projector maybe moving on the mount real odd but possible. So I fixed the position and saved the lens position last night. I then turned it on tonight and again it was about an inch lower so I loaded the lens position and it went like 3 inches lower. Any thoughts? 

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Archaea

xbladr said:


> I have had an issue where I turn on the projector after a day or so and the image has shifted about an inch lower. I first though that it was the projector maybe moving on the mount real odd but possible. So I fixed the position and saved the lens position last night. I then turned it on tonight and again it was about an inch lower so I loaded the lens position and it went like 3 inches lower. Any thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk




Yeah. You have to move the projector by X amount before it saves. So advice I’ve seen is to take everything out of position by a significant amount and adjust only one direction before you save. NO FINE tuning going back and forth, because the memory won’t save that fine tuning. It only saves the initial one way direction and subsequent one way clicks before you stop or reverse.

Dumb

My 2012 Panasonic AE8000U had none of these Epson nuances with the lens memory —- and Auto-switched to 2.35:1 overzoomed automatically based on content. The Panasonic just went to the saved memory setting without all the XY reset stuff to...like the Espon seems to go all the way to the left all the way to the top, then find it’s way to the memory position.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tlogan6797

Archaea said:


> Yeah. You have to move the projector by X amount before it saves. So advice I’ve seen is to take everything out of position by a significant amount and adjust only one direction before you save. NO FINE tuning going back and forth, because the memory won’t save that fine tuning. It only saves the initial one way direction and subsequent one way clicks before you stop or reverse.
> 
> Dumb
> 
> My 2012 Panasonic AE8000U had none of these Epson nuances with the lens memory —- and Auto-switched to 2.35:1 overzoomed automatically based on content. The Panasonic just went to the saved memory setting without all the XY reset stuff to...like the Espon seems to go all the way to the left all the way to the top, then find it’s way to the memory position.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Agreed wholeheartedly. This is my one disappointment in upgrading from Panny to Epson 5040. My Panny 4000 had the same features, so it could done from at least 15 years ago. Does Panasonic have a patent on that Lens/AR determining software because Epson could sure learn a thing or two. And since Panasonic is not making projectors anymore, maybe Epson can pick it up. I would think Panasonic would have a hard time defending that patent if they DO have one.


----------



## jt7272

spirithockey79 said:


> Interested in how many people have a Panny UB820 paired with the Epson, and what your settings are on the Epson for both HDR on the UB820 and SDR2020 on the UB820. Ive been reading various posts on the 820 forum about ensuring the projectors are set to 2.4 gamma when doing SDR2020 but not sure what settings on the Epson provide 2.4 gamma. Is it just a change in the gamma setting to like a -1 or -2, or is it a combination of this and choosing a color mode like Cinema, or even tweaking the HDR setting to an Auto 1 or Auto 2.
> 
> Any guidance is greatly appreciated. As an FYI, I’ve tried all kinds of settings for this pj from Harpervision, Oledurt, etc. and while I do have some presets that I like I want to make sure I’m setting everything up correctly with the UB820.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I would like to know this too as I am about to pick up a UB820.


----------



## Lithium

spirithockey79 said:


> Agreed. But my understanding is that the 2.4 gamma recommendation isn’t limited to the JVC. Sounds like in order to have the tone mapping done properly with the 820 there are some specific pj settings required. That’s what I’m trying to nail down.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





jt7272 said:


> I would like to know this too as I am about to pick up a UB820.


I've been away from the thread for a few weeks but as far as I know we don't have a good 2.4 gamma calibration as it is not a trivial operation (unlike on JVCs).

I stand by my older post that for best results I recommend HarperVision and the UB820 properly configured. Details are here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-555.html#post57464488


----------



## terminal33

spirithockey79 said:


> Interested in how many people have a Panny UB820 paired with the Epson, and what your settings are on the Epson for both HDR on the UB820 and SDR2020 on the UB820. Ive been reading various posts on the 820 forum about ensuring the projectors are set to 2.4 gamma when doing SDR2020 but not sure what settings on the Epson provide 2.4 gamma. Is it just a change in the gamma setting to like a -1 or -2, or is it a combination of this and choosing a color mode like Cinema, or even tweaking the HDR setting to an Auto 1 or Auto 2.
> 
> Any guidance is greatly appreciated. As an FYI, I’ve tried all kinds of settings for this pj from Harpervision, Oledurt, etc. and while I do have some presets that I like I want to make sure I’m setting everything up correctly with the UB820.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





jt7272 said:


> I would like to know this too as I am about to pick up a UB820.


I happen to take a couple of pics (Aquaman 4K disc) last night with the HDR Optimizer On and Off on the 820. These aren't the greatest pics or the best example, but it does show a difference, so hopefully it helps. With the Optimizer Off, the white was blown out. With it On, you can see detail in the white. (It is more noticeable in person, or course.) 

Epson Settings
Super White: *Off*
Dynamic Range: Auto (Bright)

Panny Settings
Output: HDR2020
Dynamic Range Adjustment: 4

*The thing I found out was that I needed to have Super White Off in the Epson to show the effect of the HDR Optimizer. With...
- Super White On and HDR Optimizer On = less detail in white, similar to the 1st pic below
- Super White On and HDR Optimizer Off = detail did show in white, similar to the 2nd pic below

I may be wrong, but from what I read it seems that with Super White On, the Epson tries to prevent blown out whites. So with SW On, along with the Optimizer On, it does not produce as much detail in the whites because they're both trying to prevent blown out whites. I'll test some more tonight on that theory, but maybe others can too. Basically the HDR Optimizer worked better when Super White was set to Off in the Epson. 

My next thing will be to have Super White Off and the Panny set to output SDR2020. I haven't tested that yet. (I did watch Aquaman and Bumblebee with the Panny outputting SDR2020, but I had Super White On for those movies.)


----------



## Polish Hammer

Hey everyone, I'm considering replacing my 13+ year old Panny PT-AE900u with the Epson 5040ub. Simply put right now I'll be running an Xbox One S and Xfinity cable through a Yamaha TSR 7850 into the projector. BluRay and PLEX media will be played through the Xbox, Netflix and Amazon Prime Video can run through the Xbox or the cable box. I've read about some issues with the Xbox and this particular projector, but I can't figure out if that just has to do with gaming or some other issue. Can you good folks help me understand the upside/downside to what I'm proposing here? Any suggestions? Any articles or things I should read to help me figure this out? 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## sddp

Polish Hammer said:


> Hey everyone, I'm considering replacing my 13+ year old Panny PT-AE900u with the Epson 5040ub. Simply put right now I'll be running an Xbox One S and Xfinity cable through a Yamaha TSR 7850 into the projector. BluRay and PLEX media will be played through the Xbox, Netflix and Amazon Prime Video can run through the Xbox or the cable box. I've read about some issues with the Xbox and this particular projector, but I can't figure out if that just has to do with gaming or some other issue. Can you good folks help me understand the upside/downside to what I'm proposing here? Any suggestions? Any articles or things I should read to help me figure this out?
> 
> Thanks in advance!




What issue did you hear about the 5040 nd the XBOX?


I had the XBOX One S on the 5040 and then got the XBOX ONE X when it came out and have no issues using it on the 5040UBE. I use it for gaming and movies


----------



## imagic

Looking for home theater enthusiasts to join us in NYC on May 7... register if you can attend.

https://www.avsforum.com/new-epson-4k-pro-uhd-projector-first-look-live-demo/


----------



## ofcsu1

sddp said:


> What issue did you hear about the 5040 nd the XBOX?
> 
> 
> I had the XBOX One S on the 5040 and then got the XBOX ONE X when it came out and have no issues using it on the 5040UBE. I use it for gaming and movies


Its my understanding that you cant get HDR content to work using the Xbox One S without using a linker. Outside of UHD blurays that is. Netflix streaming and gamming is restricted to SDR because of the way the Xbone sends the signal.


----------



## sddp

ofcsu1 said:


> Its my understanding that you cant get HDR content to work using the Xbox One S without using a linker. Outside of UHD blurays that is. Netflix streaming and gamming is restricted to SDR because of the way the Xbone sends the signal.




Oh that, yes that is a headache and there are ways around it, likner and a PHD in HDRology helps. I didn't bother with all that. However if you haven't bought one yet, I would suggest the new 5050, the band with is now at 18gb which is a big deal.


----------



## gnoid

*Another one bites the dust*

After 15 months of light use my 5040UB wouldn't turn on last night.
Tried different power cord etc, but nothing.
Called Epson at about 9 PM EDT and got through to them and they are going to send a refurb by Fedex
I am still within the 2 yr warranty.
I have to return the dead unit in same packaging that refurb arrives in.
They put a hold on my c/c for about $1350 CDN to guarantee that I would.
The other option would be to return the dead unit to Epson first and then they would send refurb. No thanks.

I'll update when refurb arrives.


----------



## Deejay Freddy

I was wondering if you can just save a preset / setting like you can do with the lens memory.

Are you able to save a setting / preset with HDR1 or HDR 2 and so on? This way you don;t have to always go to Menu and turn on HDR all the time.


----------



## simonk83

Pretty sure I know the answer to this, but is there any way to get the 9300 (which is the 6040 I think) controlled via network? I have as much of my stuff as possible automated at home and it's bugging me that I can't control the projector as well


----------



## ComradeBrehznev

gnoid said:


> After 15 months of light use my 5040UB wouldn't turn on last night.
> Tried different power cord etc, but nothing.
> Called Epson at about 9 PM EDT and got through to them and they are going to send a refurb by Fedex
> I am still within the 2 yr warranty.
> I have to return the dead unit in same packaging that refurb arrives in.
> They put a hold on my c/c for about $1350 CDN to guarantee that I would.
> The other option would be to return the dead unit to Epson first and then they would send refurb. No thanks.
> 
> I'll update when refurb arrives.


Standard procedure, right?


----------



## marcosphoto

*Arrrggggggghhhh - please advise!*

Just bought the 5040UB and the Panasonic 820 BR. Blu-ray is irrelevant right now other than the fact I'm in the hole deep and pretty upset by the fact I am having problems with both. I'll start by saying when I bought the projector, I was lent an open box version while I waited for my unmolested one to arrive. Playing around with it was amazing, both my wife and I were amazed at the brightness and clarity. Not being a stranger to devices and having owned other projectors and such, I had a good recollection where the settings were on the loaner unit. Once I got the new one home, I was convinced it was broken! The picture was so dark that you required sun-lit scenes to really make out any detail. Colour didn't seem as good either but my main concern remains a problem with brightness. I even exaggerated the brightness of mine over the loaner but setting mode to standard rather than eco which is where the loaner was set to. Otherwise, cinema mode selected on both, all other settings comparable and still we struggle to see anything other than silhouettes (well, slight exaggeration here) during dark scenes. It really doesn't make much difference in image brightness where you put any settings other than the viewing mode (eg; cinema, bright cinema, etc). I could watch on bright cinema I suppose, but I shouldn't have to because the loaner was set to cinema and my theater is pitch black! It's so hard to see that it's really making us angry. Could this thing be broken?


----------



## --Sclaws

marcosphoto said:


> Just bought the 5040UB and the Panasonic 820 BR. Blu-ray is irrelevant right now other than the fact I'm in the hole deep and pretty upset by the fact I am having problems with both. I'll start by saying when I bought the projector, I was lent an open box version while I waited for my unmolested one to arrive. Playing around with it was amazing, both my wife and I were amazed at the brightness and clarity. Not being a stranger to devices and having owned other projectors and such, I had a good recollection where the settings were on the loaner unit. Once I got the new one home, I was convinced it was broken! The picture was so dark that you required sun-lit scenes to really make out any detail. Colour didn't seem as good either but my main concern remains a problem with brightness. I even exaggerated the brightness of mine over the loaner but setting mode to standard rather than eco which is where the loaner was set to. Otherwise, cinema mode selected on both, all other settings comparable and still we struggle to see anything other than silhouettes (well, slight exaggeration here) during dark scenes. It really doesn't make much difference in image brightness where you put any settings other than the viewing mode (eg; cinema, bright cinema, etc). I could watch on bright cinema I suppose, but I shouldn't have to because the loaner was set to cinema and my theater is pitch black! It's so hard to see that it's really making us angry. Could this thing be broken?


Could be a bad lamp. Maybe reset to factory defaults to make sure a setting isn't messing things up. That projector is not dim, but the p3 filter in digital cinema mode will reduce light output significantly.


----------



## marcosphoto

I spent another hour or so experimenting between all the components and various issues with them. With regards to the projector, it came at factory default, did not get any worse really after I mucked with it (although not much better either). I have it set to "cinema" normally as that is where my Panasonic was best, and supposedly where the epson displays the best colours as well. In "Digital Cinema", there is slightly better brightness, especially with dark subject matter (like Denzels face, which is hard to discern if he is smiling or not in most lower light scenes). In "Natural" or "Bright Cinema" there is definite improvement in brightness, but at a slight loss of colour quality. You can hear the motor moving the filter between most modes except between "cinema" and "digital cinema" even though there is definitely a difference between the two. I am having serious problems discerning detail in darker movies especially with Game of Thrones. However if I throw in a Lord of the Rings disk, I've got plenty of brightness and I can be content with eco setting and "cinema" mode. This tells me that there is a distinct problem on darker subjects and/or movies which I cannot seem to improve with settings. These observations kind of eliminate bulb issues I think, although there certainly is an obvious issue where my loaner did not have. 



Noteworty: Turning on HDR is a complete waste of time, find the colours horrible and the movies all come out looking super dark and impossible to watch. Although, I did not try HDR setting with this projector, rather was discouraged with the attempt with the loaner.


----------



## Dave Harper

marcosphoto said:


> Just bought the 5040UB and the Panasonic 820 BR. Blu-ray is irrelevant right now other than the fact I'm in the hole deep and pretty upset by the fact I am having problems with both. I'll start by saying when I bought the projector, I was lent an open box version while I waited for my unmolested one to arrive. Playing around with it was amazing, both my wife and I were amazed at the brightness and clarity. Not being a stranger to devices and having owned other projectors and such, I had a good recollection where the settings were on the loaner unit. Once I got the new one home, I was convinced it was broken! The picture was so dark that you required sun-lit scenes to really make out any detail. Colour didn't seem as good either but my main concern remains a problem with brightness. I even exaggerated the brightness of mine over the loaner but setting mode to standard rather than eco which is where the loaner was set to. Otherwise, cinema mode selected on both, all other settings comparable and still we struggle to see anything other than silhouettes (well, slight exaggeration here) during dark scenes. It really doesn't make much difference in image brightness where you put any settings other than the viewing mode (eg; cinema, bright cinema, etc). I could watch on bright cinema I suppose, but I shouldn't have to because the loaner was set to cinema and my theater is pitch black! It's so hard to see that it's really making us angry. Could this thing be broken?



They tweaked and added some brightness modes with some firmware iterations I believe. What FW does your new one have?


----------



## marco1975

was just wondering, has the high speed fan issue at the startup of the projector been fix yet ?


----------



## marcosphoto

It's got the latest, shows as a long# ending in 111 which is supposed to be the new one. Have not noticed any fan related concerns as of yet.


----------



## Willy212

anyone got a some decent settings for game of thrones , on a 100% dark room.
I'm sure it has been asked .


----------



## djmattyb

marco1975 said:


> was just wondering, has the high speed fan issue at the startup of the projector been fix yet ?


Mine does that every once in a while too. Not every time though. I'm not sure what the projector is doing but it will blast the fan a full speed for up to a minute then the bulb comes on. Maybe it's trying to remove dust or something? I'm not really sure.


----------



## UHDTV

Whenever I am playing any UHD HDR 10 bit contents,it can't produce 10bit colour depth at 4K resolution. It outputs 4K with correct frame rate but with 8bit colour depth which is causing the prominent colour banding. I also made the colour depth settings to auto/10/12 in my media player (Zidoo X10) but no luck. It is giving HDR BT.2020 colour primaries for all cases with 8 bit colour depth.

If I decrease the resolution of the media player while it is playing 4K HDR content to 1080p HDR, it can output 10bit colour depth and hence the colour banding is absent while 2160 HDR 8bit has annoying colour banding. 

I have tested media player (Zidoo X10) and AVR (Yamaha RX -V681), they are capable of decoding 10 bit 4K HDR, so is it a bug of this projector or it can be cured?


----------



## Blitzdog

imagic said:


> Looking for home theater enthusiasts to join us in NYC on May 7... register if you can attend.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/new-epson-4k-pro-uhd-projector-first-look-live-demo/


Epson events are always well catered and top drawer affairs, join for the unveiling on May 7th


----------



## Gabriello

djmattyb said:


> Mine does that every once in a while too. Not every time though. I'm not sure what the projector is doing but it will blast the fan a full speed for up to a minute then the bulb comes on. Maybe it's trying to remove dust or something? I'm not really sure.


I apologize for the bad English
I own the European model TW9300 and sometimes I also have the fan problem on power up.
I put a thermometer near the vpr. I noticed that the problem occurs when the temperature near the vpr exceeds 25 C °.
It could be that the VPR starts the fan to lower the temperature inside it before turning on the lamp.


----------



## sddp

*5040 on a 2.35:1 playing XBOX Star Wars Battlefront Ii*

Anyone here using this projector on a 2.35:1 screen and play Star Wars Battlefront II on the XBOX?

wanted to know if you only get black bars on the sides? 
and other annoying issues?


----------



## mswoods1

I just upgraded to an Epson 5040UB from a Panasonic AE8000U and the difference is astounding! I wasn't expecting much of a difference because the stats on the two projectors are mostly the same. I mainly upgraded for additional features of the Epson, but a few things I've noticed:



Color seems a lot better. Blacks appear blacker and colors more vibrant.
UHD content is so much better than HD content. I have a 140" 2.35:1 screen and HD content looks like standard def when blown up to that size. Now I only want to watch UHD content.
Upscaling of HD content is better than Panny
Fan noise is better. Not too much quieter, but the panny had a higher pitched fan noise which drove me crazy.


----------



## Deejay Freddy

mswoods1 said:


> I just upgraded to an Epson 5040UB from a Panasonic AE8000U and the difference is astounding! I wasn't expecting much of a difference because the stats on the two projectors are mostly the same. I mainly upgraded for additional features of the Epson, but a few things I've noticed:
> 
> 
> 
> Color seems a lot better. Blacks appear blacker and colors more vibrant.
> UHD content is so much better than HD content. I have a 140" 2.35:1 screen and HD content looks like standard def when blown up to that size. Now I only want to watch UHD content.
> Upscaling of HD content is better than Panny
> Fan noise is better. Not too much quieter, but the panny had a higher pitched fan noise which drove me crazy.



I too came from a Panny AE8000U, I noticed the fan is much louder on the epson for me.


----------



## evanft

I just picked up a open box 5040ub. Does anyone have any settings using the Eco power mode? I'm in a completely light controlled room with a 100" screen, so I don't need the full output of high or medium.


----------



## DavidinGA

terminal33 said:


> I happen to take a couple of pics (Aquaman 4K disc) last night with the HDR Optimizer On and Off on the 820. These aren't the greatest pics or the best example, but it does show a difference, so hopefully it helps. With the Optimizer Off, the white was blown out. With it On, you can see detail in the white. (It is more noticeable in person, or course.)
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Settings
> 
> Super White: *Off*
> 
> Dynamic Range: Auto (Bright)
> 
> 
> 
> Panny Settings
> 
> Output: HDR2020
> 
> Dynamic Range Adjustment: 4
> 
> 
> 
> *The thing I found out was that I needed to have Super White Off in the Epson to show the effect of the HDR Optimizer. With...
> 
> - Super White On and HDR Optimizer On = less detail in white, similar to the 1st pic below
> 
> - Super White On and HDR Optimizer Off = detail did show in white, similar to the 2nd pic below
> 
> 
> 
> I may be wrong, but from what I read it seems that with Super White On, the Epson tries to prevent blown out whites. So with SW On, along with the Optimizer On, it does not produce as much detail in the whites because they're both trying to prevent blown out whites. I'll test some more tonight on that theory, but maybe others can too. Basically the HDR Optimizer worked better when Super White was set to Off in the Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> My next thing will be to have Super White Off and the Panny set to output SDR2020. I haven't tested that yet. (I did watch Aquaman and Bumblebee with the Panny outputting SDR2020, but I had Super White On for those movies.)


Viewing on my phone, it looks like hdr OFF looks way better. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Polish Hammer

sddp said:


> What issue did you hear about the 5040 nd the XBOX?
> 
> 
> I had the XBOX One S on the 5040 and then got the XBOX ONE X when it came out and have no issues using it on the 5040UBE. I use it for gaming and movies


The other folks summed it up pretty well. What I'm trying to figure out is just how much of an issue it actually is for me. I don't really do much gaming at this point in my life. If/when I use the XBOX it is to stream Netflix or Amazon Prime Video, or to send something from my Plex server. I didn't know how much HDR content was used on Netflix or Amazon so didn't know if it would even impact me. We will occasionally watch BluRays on the XBOX as well, but not too often. Based on all that, do you folks think this issue is something I should be worried about? 

To the person that mentioned the 5050UB, I just read a review on it. Sounds nice (and a little more future-proofed) but I have to figure out if a 50% jump in price is worth it at this time.


----------



## doctorsamadams

imagic said:


> Looking for home theater enthusiasts to join us in NYC on May 7... register if you can attend.
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I am a lurker interested in purchasing my first projector. I've been trying to choose between the HT3550 and the Epson models (4010/5040/5050), with some other models popping up here and there, and at the moment I am leaning towards an Epson. I created an account to register for the above event as I am located in Brooklyn and would very much love to see the 5050 in action. Does anyone know when the invitations/confirmations will be sent out? If I am not selected to attend, I might just focus on picking up a secondhand 5040 on eBay in the next couple of days; there's one I've been keeping my eye on and I am mostly ready to pull the trigger. Thanks for any info you are able to provide!


----------



## darkangelism

I think I need to replace the bulb soon, image is dimmer and at 3400 hours, prices seem all over the place, is their a preferred place?


----------



## AdamAttewell

darkangelism said:


> I think I need to replace the bulb soon, image is dimmer and at 3400 hours, prices seem all over the place, is their a preferred place?



Got mine from Epson direct myself but I am in the UK.


----------



## urcha

darkangelism said:


> I think I need to replace the bulb soon, image is dimmer and at 3400 hours, prices seem all over the place, is their a preferred place?


I just replaced mine about a month ago, ordered from B&H. They are an authorized Epson dealer and have OEM bulbs. The process is super easy. Picked up a couple of replacement air filters as well.


----------



## Darrell Money

Polish Hammer said:


> Hey everyone, I'm considering replacing my 13+ year old Panny PT-AE900u with the Epson 5040ub. Simply put right now I'll be running an Xbox One S and Xfinity cable through a Yamaha TSR 7850 into the projector. BluRay and PLEX media will be played through the Xbox, Netflix and Amazon Prime Video can run through the Xbox or the cable box. I've read about some issues with the Xbox and this particular projector, but I can't figure out if that just has to do with gaming or some other issue. Can you good folks help me understand the upside/downside to what I'm proposing here? Any suggestions? Any articles or things I should read to help me figure this out?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I'm using an Xbox One S with this projector. The HDMI input is limited to 10Gbps, which limits the 4K signal. I'd go with the new 5050ub.


----------



## Willy212

can anyone recommend me some 3d glasses being sold on amazon?
under 60$ i'm thinking of trying out "Hi-SHOCK 3D Active Glasses Scarlet Heaven"
since it does have big lens most 3d glasses have small ones .


----------



## tlogan6797

Willy212 said:


> can anyone recommend me some 3d glasses being sold on amazon?
> under 60$ i'm thinking of trying out "Hi-SHOCK 3D Active Glasses Scarlet Heaven"
> since it does have big lens most 3d glasses have small ones .


I bought the Epson branded glasses and they work great. Please post a review if you try these. They are about half the price if the Epsons, so it would be nice to find good glasses that are cheaper when it comes time to replace.


----------



## Mr.G

Willy212 said:


> can anyone recommend me some 3d glasses being sold on amazon? Under 60$ i'm thinking of trying out "Hi-SHOCK 3D Active Glasses Scarlet Heaven" since it does have big lens most 3d glasses have small ones .


About your only option is to try a pair and if they work buy more. Unfortunately what has happened during the past year or two is that many 3D glasses manufacturers have dropped out of the market. I was able to purchase 5 pairs of ValueView 3D glasses in January 2018 but now it's a brand that's no longer marketed. A good part of the blame can be put on Hollywood and HDTV manufacturers dropping out of the 3D game.


----------



## PeterOrr

*Thumbs Up for Epson*

Purchased 5040ub in March 2018. My bulb failed at 1402 hours, always set on eco mode= should last 3000+ hours. Called Epson and they agreed an early failure although bulb warranty is only 90 days. They shipped me a new bulb overnight at no cost.


My second Epson and will continue to purchase from this company!


----------



## rfb6435

tlogan6797 said:


> I bought the Epson branded glasses and they work great. Please post a review if you try these. They are about half the price if the Epsons, so it would be nice to find good glasses that are cheaper when it comes time to replace.


I use Samsung SSG-3100GB glasses which work great.  They are usually available for $20 or less on ebay. I see a bunch of broken ones for repair so they do apparently break but I haven't had it happen yet and they are cheap enough to where it isn't a big concern (just buy a backup pair or two).

I tend to use these instead of the authentic epson glasses because I like the lack of the bottom frame. I also started wearing glasses last year and these tend to fit over my glasses better than the epson ones.

These use a CR2025 battery but I am able to squeeze in a CR2032 instead for extra capacity. I actually like that they use a normal battery especially when I have friends over because I don't have to worry about whether or not the 3rd/4th/5th pair of glasses are charged up or not.

I also have a pair of 3Active glasses which work well too but they are kind of big and clunky.

-Rich


----------



## rfb6435

djmattyb said:


> Mine does that every once in a while too. Not every time though. I'm not sure what the projector is doing but it will blast the fan a full speed for up to a minute then the bulb comes on. Maybe it's trying to remove dust or something? I'm not really sure.


Mine also just started doing this.... It seems like it adds a minute or more to the startup time before the lamp turns on.

Has anyone figured out what it is?

Perhaps I should check the dust filter?

-Rich


----------



## darkangelism

rfb6435 said:


> Mine also just started doing this.... It seems like it adds a minute or more to the startup time before the lamp turns on.
> 
> Has anyone figured out what it is?
> 
> Perhaps I should check the dust filter?
> 
> -Rich


I think it is doing a full power on versus a suspend, for me it always happens after power outages.


----------



## filipp2442

Anyone know if this mount will work with the 5040UB? This is my old mount on my Optima and I just ordered a 5040UB; https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8801


----------



## Archaea

sddp said:


> Anyone here using this projector on a 2.35:1 screen and play Star Wars Battlefront II on the XBOX?
> 
> 
> 
> wanted to know if you only get black bars on the sides?
> 
> and other annoying issues?




Yes you’ll get black bars on the sides when displaying 16x9 content on a 2.35:1 screen. There is no question there. That’s the way it works.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Archaea

Deejay Freddy said:


> I too came from a Panny AE8000U, I noticed the fan is much louder on the epson for me.




Same here

And coming from a Panasonic with 1700 hours the Epson 5040UB is a slight tick up. Not a massive improvement IMO.


----------



## Archaea

filipp2442 said:


> Anyone know if this mount will work with the 5040UB? This is my old mount on my Optima and I just ordered a 5040UB; https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8801




That’s junk and no.

I’ve used that mount before. Never again.



Buy a Chief mount. You can get one on eBay for $70 ish. Well designed, solid, you could hang on the thing. Set screws to dial and lock in adjustment with precision on all three axis.

https://www.legrandav.com/search?ta...a247d-fc93-4611-a5cc-ea146e29f1bc&brand=Chief


----------



## filipp2442

Archaea said:


> That’s junk and no.
> 
> I’ve used that mount before. Never again.
> 
> 
> 
> Buy a Chief mount. You can get one on eBay for $70 ish. Well designed, solid, you could hang on the thing. Set screws to dial and lock in adjustment with precision on all three axis.
> 
> https://www.legrandav.com/search?ta...a247d-fc93-4611-a5cc-ea146e29f1bc&brand=Chief


Ugh, I was really hoping to not have to make new holes/patch/etc since it'll be expensive for me to pay for someone to do that. Are there any Amazon mounts that are $50-$80 that are recommended? Would prefer to just get it with 2 day shipping.


----------



## noob00224

Can FI be activated on 24hz refresh rate on 24 (23.976) fps material?

Does it need a higher refresh rate than the fps of the material to be interpolated?


----------



## roland6465

filipp2442 said:


> Ugh, I was really hoping to not have to make new holes/patch/etc since it'll be expensive for me to pay for someone to do that. Are there any Amazon mounts that are $50-$80 that are recommended? Would prefer to just get it with 2 day shipping.



If you want to hang your $2000 projector with a $50 mount just for the shipping time, more power to ya. I liken it to someone with a $1000 iPhone who won't buy an Otterbox because they're $60. You get what you pay for.


----------



## tlogan6797

rfb6435 said:


> I use Samsung SSG-3100GB glasses which work great. They are usually available for $20 or less on ebay. I see a bunch of broken ones for repair so they do apparently break but I haven't had it happen yet and they are cheap enough to where it isn't a big concern (just buy a backup pair or two).
> 
> I tend to use these instead of the authentic epson glasses because I like the lack of the bottom frame. I also started wearing glasses last year and these tend to fit over my glasses better than the epson ones.
> 
> These use a CR2025 battery but I am able to squeeze in a CR2032 instead for extra capacity. I actually like that they use a normal battery especially when I have friends over because I don't have to worry about whether or not the 3rd/4th/5th pair of glasses are charged up or not.
> 
> I also have a pair of 3Active glasses which work well too but they are kind of big and clunky.
> 
> -Rich


These really work with the Epson 5040? The Epson 5040 is RF and these are blue tooth. I thought they were different frequencies and incompatible. Maybe the RF is a hidden feature?


----------



## noob00224

noob00224 said:


> Can FI be activated on 24hz refresh rate on 24 (23.976) fps material?
> 
> Does it need a higher refresh rate than the fps of the material to be interpolated?


According to the manual the refresh rate needs to be set at 24hz.

How can it create extra frames if the source is also 24hz?
Does the projector in this mode increase the actual refresh rate?


----------



## Archaea

filipp2442 said:


> Ugh, I was really hoping to not have to make new holes/patch/etc since it'll be expensive for me to pay for someone to do that. Are there any Amazon mounts that are $50-$80 that are recommended? Would prefer to just get it with 2 day shipping.




Here’s what you want.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/132832787032

I do not know the seller or have anything to gain by linking this. It’s just a simple eBay search and good price. MSRP is $300 on that mount and it’s worth MSRP. At $50ish it’s a no brainer.


----------



## filipp2442

Archaea said:


> Here’s what you want.
> https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/132832787032
> 
> I do not know the seller or have anything to gain by linking this. It’s just a simple eBay search and good price. MSRP is $300 on that mount and it’s worth MSRP. At $50ish it’s a no brainer.


Made an offer of $25 to another seller for it and he took it so got the Chief CHF2500 for $25 + $20 shipping. I hope everything works out with the ceiling and the 5040 I ordered...


----------



## Archaea

filipp2442 said:


> Made an offer of $25 to another seller for it and he took it so got the Chief CHF2500 for $25 + $20 shipping. I hope everything works out with the ceiling and the 5040 I ordered...




That’s a fantastic price

Report back when it comes in on how soundly it beats your old mount. Maybe it’ll help some others steer clear of those cheap universal mounts.

https://epson.com/Support/Projector...ector-Ceiling-Mount-Kit---Black/s/SPT_CHF2500

Now as to the chief... you have some options. It should come with four pieces because it looks to be full set. It should have the projector specific mounting plate, the mount, the mount pole and the floor Joyce plate.

You can extend the mount pole by buying a standard threaded steel pipe at Home Depot, and painting it black, if the included one isn’t long enough for your use. I had to do that with mine. I wanted an 14” drop IIRC.


----------



## filipp2442

Archaea said:


> That’s a fantastic price
> 
> Report back when it comes in on how soundly it beats your old mount. Maybe it’ll help some others steer clear of those cheap universal mounts.
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/Projector...ector-Ceiling-Mount-Kit---Black/s/SPT_CHF2500
> 
> Now as to the chief... you have some options. It should come with four pieces because it looks to be full set. It should have the projector specific mounting plate, the mount, the mount pole and the floor Joyce plate.
> 
> You can extend the mount pole by buying a standard threaded steel pipe at Home Depot, and painting it black, if the included one isn’t long enough for your use. I had to do that with mine. I wanted an 14” drop IIRC.


I have to hire someone to take down my old one and install this one probably so the review could take a bit. Also waiting for the refurb 5040UB to come in to test.

This is the one I bought and it looks like he has 1 more left if anyone else wants to offer him $25; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chief-RPA-...441833&hash=item3fbd86b971:g:hMwAAOSwN3lci8UC


----------



## Ken Stanger

Doug Weil just left my house from calibrating my 5040UB. Very knowledgeable person, friendly and explained everything he was doing. He calibrated for HD, HDR10 and SDR2020. I had tried to calibrate the projector several times and just couldn't figure out why I wasn't having any luck at getting it right and watching Doug I discovered a couple things I was doing wrong. Still couldn't have gotten as close as Doug did at least for quite some time. If you are in need of projector calibration, get a hold of Doug and see if he will trek out to your area, if it's not too far, he's the best. 

Thanks Doug, I really appreciate your time and willingness to come to the No. Ga. Mountains for this.


----------



## scubasteve2365

I picked up a 5040 recently when I realized that I didn't want to pay $1000 more for the higher bandwidth HDMI port, plus the free lamp.

This is my first HDR display. I've had a theater for about a decade or more now, and this is my 4th Epson UB. Been happy with the units over the years. Anyway, I can't really tell the differences with HDR being on. Maybe I'm crazy. I am using an AppleTV and am streaming local content as well as via Netflix. Of course being limited to 24fps. As of right now, I think i'd rather run without HDR and have the higher framerate, but I'm wondering if maybe I'm missing something. Were my expectations too high with HDR?


----------



## xbladr

scubasteve2365 said:


> I picked up a 5040 recently when I realized that I didn't want to pay $1000 more for the higher bandwidth HDMI port, plus the free lamp.
> 
> 
> 
> This is my first HDR display. I've had a theater for about a decade or more now, and this is my 4th Epson UB. Been happy with the units over the years. Anyway, I can't really tell the differences with HDR being on. Maybe I'm crazy. I am using an AppleTV and am streaming local content as well as via Netflix. Of course being limited to 24fps. As of right now, I think i'd rather run without HDR and have the higher framerate, but I'm wondering if maybe I'm missing something. Were my expectations too high with HDR?


Make sure to look into Dave harper or oledurts tweaks as they made a massive difference for me

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## scubasteve2365

xbladr said:


> Make sure to look into Dave harper or oledurts tweaks as they made a massive difference for me
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


Thanks. Can you link to the post by any chance? I’ve tried searching and have found tons of posts of commenting about using the tweaks but I haven’t found the tweaks themselves. Searching via mobile probably isn’t helping either.


----------



## xbladr

scubasteve2365 said:


> Thanks. Can you link to the post by any chance? I’ve tried searching and have found tons of posts of commenting about using the tweaks but I haven’t found the tweaks themselves. Searching via mobile probably isn’t helping either.


I do not know where I got it pm me your email and I'll send it to you

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## rfb6435

tlogan6797 said:


> These really work with the Epson 5040? The Epson 5040 is RF and these are blue tooth. I thought they were different frequencies and incompatible. Maybe the RF is a hidden feature?


Yes the ssg-3100gb glasses work perfectly with the 5040ub. Bluetooth is RF...  The standard is called "Full HD 3D" for the bluetooth glasses.

I have 5 pairs of the ssg-3100gb and they all work perfectly. The 2100gb glasses were the IR versions so those will not work.


Most people use the ssg-4100 or ssg-5150 but I happen to like the ssg-3100gbs even though they aren't rechargeable. They are cheap on ebay and work great. 
If you squeeze a CR2032 into the ssg-3100gb instead of a CR2025 they last longer. It is a tight fit and you have to do it carefully but it works. I haven't broken any of the battery covers yet but do this at your own risk. The cr2025 and cr2032 are both a 3V battery with the same diameter, the cr2032 is thicker (3.2mm vs. 2.5mm) with ~50% more capacity (240mAh instead of 163mAh). I buy the batteries online so they don't cost that much.

They made an ssg-3100gr (rechargeable) but I haven't found many for sale. I hate the flat front glasses like the 4100 and 5150 because I find them uncomfortable and that style gets a lot of reflections from the rear. 

Samsung glasses link: https://www.samsung.com/my/support/...-will-work-with-my-samsung-3d-blu-ray-player/ (good link even though they seem to mix up the ssg-3100gb and ssg-3100gr when talking about rechargeable batteries)
You can use at least these older samsung glasses:

SSG-5100GB
SSG-5150GB
SSG-4100GB
SSG-3550CR
SSG-3300GR/CR
SSG-3700CR
SSG-3100GB/GR
SSG-3050GB

Or any samsung glasses that list compatibility as:

LED TV: for all 2011 and 2012 Samsung D, E and F range 3D TVs
Plasma TV: for all 2011 and 2012 Samsung D, E and F range 3D TVs​

Note that Sony projectors like the hw45es DO NOT work properly with the samsung and epson glasses. They flicker and don't seem to meet the fullHD 3d bluetooth RF standard. I returned an hw45es due to this issue before Sony admitted that I could only use Sony glasses with it.... Sony's customer service also wouldn't admit that they didn't meet the standard (and didn't seem to understand what the definition of meeting a standard entailed). 

I am sure that the ssg-3100gb is fully compatible with the 5030ub and 5040ub projectors though as I have tested them extensively with both.

If my 5040ub didn't still ghost too much in 3d I would be fully happy with it... And yes it ghosts the same way with the authentic epson glasses, the samsungs, the 3actives, ultraclears, xpand, panasonic (I tried pretty much all of the top choices).

-Rich


----------



## bigbadbob

Ken Stanger said:


> Doug Weil just left my house from calibrating my 5040UB. Very knowledgeable person, friendly and explained everything he was doing. He calibrated for HD, HDR10 and SDR2020. I had tried to calibrate the projector several times and just couldn't figure out why I wasn't having any luck at getting it right and watching Doug I discovered a couple things I was doing wrong. Still couldn't have gotten as close as Doug did at least for quite some time. If you are in need of projector calibration, get a hold of Doug and see if he will trek out to your area, if it's not too far, he's the best.
> 
> Thanks Doug, I really appreciate your time and willingness to come to the No. Ga. Mountains for this.


Just curious as to what your calibrated settings are at now. Would you share?


----------



## tlogan6797

rfb6435 said:


> Yes the ssg-3100gb glasses work perfectly with the 5040ub. Bluetooth is RF...  The standard is called "Full HD 3D" for the bluetooth glasses.
> .
> .
> .
> If my 5040ub didn't still ghost too much in 3d I would be fully happy with it... And yes it ghosts the same way with the authentic epson glasses, the samsungs, the 3actives, ultraclears, xpand, panasonic (I tried pretty much all of the top choices).
> 
> -Rich


Thanks for that. I'm not noticing any ghosting using the Epson glasses. I WILL try my older non-Epson glasses I was using with an add-on system for my old Panny2000.


----------



## rfb6435

tlogan6797 said:


> Thanks for that. I'm not noticing any ghosting using the Epson glasses. I WILL try my older non-Epson glasses I was using with an add-on system for my old Panny2000.


The ghosting isn't the glasses, I have 2 pairs of genuine epson glasses that have exactly the same ghosting as with my samsung, panasonic, 3active, glasses (I tried 5-6 different types of glasses with it).

It seems to show up more in post converted movies but I can also see it even on 3D menus if I tilt my head at all which I never saw with the 5030ub or my older h9500bd acer.

It is usually only specific scenes but the epson does a worse job than other projectors i have had which is sad. The first 5040ub was worse than this one but it still isnt' perfect if the 3d depth is more than "0". Of course the high fan noise on the 5030ub in 3d mode was just as annoying for different reasons.

-Rich


----------



## tlogan6797

That's interesting. How old is your 5040? I got mine new in February 2019. Maybe the ghosting was so bad in my previous setup that I don't even notice it at all now. BTW, I have the 3D depth set all the way up. And maybe it's because I'm old, but I do not hear the fan noise at all, maybe because I tend to crank the volume.


Here IS a weird 3D issue I DO have since I've upgraded to the 5040. It could be one of the other upgrades I made but it is weird that it ONLY affects 3D disks.

Original setup:
Panny2000 with a 3D add-on
Oppo 103D
Denon 3806
Monoprice 4x4 matrix
Standard HDMI cables

NEW setup:
Epson 5040
Oppo 103D
Denon 3806
Upgraded Monoprice 4K 4x4 matrix
Upgraded 4K cables from Oppo to matrix, matrix to Epson and to Dennon

I feed the Oppo to the switch and then 1 output to the Epson and 1 to the Denon. NOW when I play a 3D disc, I get a constant buzz in the sound track. Never happened before and doesn't happen with 2D disks. I had to run a second audio from the Oppo directly to the Denon and switch the input on the Denon to the direct feed. MAYBE it's the matrix, but I would think it would happen to ALL disks.


----------



## Dave Harper

scubasteve2365 said:


> Thanks. Can you link to the post by any chance? I’ve tried searching and have found tons of posts of commenting about using the tweaks but I haven’t found the tweaks themselves. Searching via mobile probably isn’t helping either.



There is a link below in my signature for the 5040’s HV settings. You may have to view on a PC in a web browser to see it.


----------



## xbladr

Dave Harper said:


> There is a link below in my signature for the 5040’s HV settings. You may have to view on a PC in a web browser to see it.


Thanks Dave I've been emailing people because I couldn't find the original post. Your settings are just amazing

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

xbladr said:


> Thanks Dave I've been emailing people because I couldn't find the original post. Your settings are just amazing
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk



If you think that looks good, you should see the BenQ LK970 and LK990 with them!!!


----------



## xbladr

Dave Harper said:


> If you think that looks good, you should see the BenQ LK970 and LK990 with them!!!


I'm using the des pulsar 1.4 screen and between the blacks and the saturation I'm honestly blown away. How much better do you feel the lk970/990 is? Side note im not in a home theater setuo it's in my living room dual purpose 

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## paindonthurt

Thanks Dave. I sent a message to Xplader and got them. Much appreciated. Have a great weekend. God Bless


----------



## Archaea

Dave Harper said:


> OK here are the settings, told in menu pictures mostly. I set the menu item to the specific mode it's in instead of AUTO so you can see what it is supposed to be and to make sure it's in that mode specifically to get the proper results. The most important settings are the gamma, contrast and setting it to SDR mode manually instead of HDR. (This is to simulate using a projector/display that isn't HDR capable, like the amazing LS10000, which I want to try this on and will post a similar post there in that thread):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Settings are, from left to right 0, -14, -24, -26, -27, -28, -26, 16, 32.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Panasonic UB900 showing sending HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This puts the clip point for HDR specular highlights/whites at about 1200 nits. If I could've went higher on contrast I would've probably made that clipping point at about 1000 nits.
> 
> You may also want to adjust the color saturation some. That was the last thing I messed with very late last night (or should I say this morning!  ) so it may not be perfect, but it certainly made my jaw drop at that setting watching Ghostbusters!
> 
> If you have an SDR only display you can use an hdfury Linker to trick your source into sending its full HDR signal and then disable the HDR flag on its output to the display. I hope to try this on an LS10000. If anyone here has one or knows someone with one, please refer them here.
> 
> Enjoy and please feel free to tweak as needed and share your results.


Does anyone else seemingly have to manually switch back and forth between SDR and HDR even when using the memory settings? Everything else seems to save, except that setting when I load my memory slots? I’m just trying this tonight and I do like it better than the Epson’s default HDR attempt.

Are there other configurations people like to compare besides Dave’s? Maybe we could get them updated in the first post?


----------



## jbnpaul

Does Dave's setting require the use of HD fury device?
Or does this simply work with Apple TV 4K playing Netflix HDR?
Or Xbox one X playing a UHD disc?


----------



## Archaea

jbnpaul said:


> Does Dave's setting require the use of HD fury device?
> 
> Or does this simply work with Apple TV 4K playing Netflix HDR?
> 
> Or Xbox one X playing a UHD disc?




Does not require.


----------



## Ken Stanger

bigbadbob said:


> Just curious as to what your calibrated settings are at now. Would you share?


So the below is my current pro-calibrated settings for 4K UHD HDR10 and BD. The room setting is complete darkness as that's the way I like to watch my movies.

View attachment 2565376


----------



## inspector

Thanks for those settings. I'll get to try them this afternoon. It seems like I have pages and page of settings, and these might just do the trick.


Right now I'm using Harpers Digital Cinema for UHD and Natural for BD.


----------



## xbladr

I used Dave's bright cinema setuo for hdr as I don't have complete light control and I really enjoy the pop of colors in bright cinema on my alr DES screen. I use Dave's natural for sdr

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

xbladr said:


> I'm using the des pulsar 1.4 screen and between the blacks and the saturation I'm honestly blown away. How much better do you feel the lk970/990 is? Side note im not in a home theater setuo it's in my living room dual purpose
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk



It’s been a while since I’ve had or seen the 5040, but I’d say if you like sharpness, depth, pop bright, 3D and detailed then the LK970/990 is for you, but if you prefer a more cinematic image using a slightly smaller screen with better blacks and contrast overall then the 5040/5050 is the one. 




xbladr said:


> I used Dave's bright cinema setuo for hdr as I don't have complete light control and I really enjoy the pop of colors in bright cinema on my alr DES screen. I use Dave's natural for sdr
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk



Oh man, I don’t even remember doing a Bright Cinema mode haha! Maybe I did. It’s been awhile. I thought mine were on Digital Cinema. Are you thinking Oledurt maybe?


----------



## avtoronto

Dave Harper said:


> It’s been a while since I’ve had or seen the 5040, but I’d say if you like sharpness, depth, pop bright, 3D and detailed then the LK970/990 is for you, but if you prefer a more cinematic image using a slightly smaller screen with better blacks and contrast overall then the 5040/5050 is the one.
> 
> Oh man, I don’t even remember doing a Bright Cinema mode haha! Maybe I did. It’s been awhile. I thought mine were on Digital Cinema. Are you thinking Oledurt maybe?


You didn't do a Bright Cinema setting. Perhaps he's using your Digital Cinema settings with Bright Cinema.


----------



## Lesmor

Dave didn't do a Bright Cinema calibration
AFAIK he didn't do a Natural SDR calibration either
Add to that his calibration was done 2 firmware updates ago


----------



## xbladr

I found a document that has a ton of calibrations. It was created by someone here on avs. It states who did them then the calibration. I had no idea you didn't do it.

It looks like this was originally compiled by a member here "ht guy" so all credit goes to him. I added it to my drive so everyone can view. Maybe Dave and some of the other members can shine some light as to where some of these calibrations came from.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B16ec_LIQB_wMnJ2TTFKamJuWnFDZnZjN1lLRjh2NlN5ZnVz/view?usp=sharing


----------



## john hunter

inspector said:


> Thanks for those settings. I'll get to try them this afternoon. It seems like I have pages and page of settings, and these might just do the trick.
> 
> 
> Right now I'm using Harpers Digital Cinema for UHD and Natural for BD.


 I would also recommend Nielvm's setting around about 548.They work the best for me
The setting in the Signal menu are not memorised so you may need to adjust Dynamic Range, etc when going from HDR to SDR.
Hope this helps.


----------



## Dave Harper

Lesmor said:


> Dave didn't do a Bright Cinema calibration
> 
> AFAIK he didn't do a Natural SDR calibration either
> 
> Add to that his calibration was done 2 firmware updates ago





avtoronto said:


> You didn't do a Bright Cinema setting. Perhaps he's using your Digital Cinema settings with Bright Cinema.



idk maybe. I know I did play with them all but not sure if I actually reported all of them. 

I did do an SDR Natural but maybe didn’t report it here.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Went over to friends house today and they have a 5040. Super nice folks and they are the type that are simply plug and play projector users. They turned it on, have it on bright cinema medium power and that's the only adjustment. They did express that they have now gone through two lamps that burned out VERY quickly. One at 1,400 hours and the other at less than 500. Filter was cleaned, no other obvious issues that we are aware of. They again ordered another lamp but they are working with Best Buy and Nebraska Furniture Mart to help them figure it out and of course they have no idea. I told them I would turn to my trusted people (that's you all) to help diagnose this or make them aware of a known issue. I can't tell you what they are seeing when this happens as I just heard about it all today. Any guidance on what to do would be helpful.


----------



## Lithium

Dave Harper said:


> Oh man, I don’t even remember doing a Bright Cinema mode haha! Maybe I did. It’s been awhile. I thought mine were on Digital Cinema. Are you thinking Oledurt maybe?


Dave, it's up to you but you could update/add to your sig links to point to this document here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352

It contains your classic HarperVision, Bright HarperVision, and HarperVision w/ Oledurt suggestions (which is my personal favorite).

Also, lots of people have the Panny 820 and this insight for HarperVision gets lost very quickly in here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-555.html#post57464488


----------



## spirithockey79

Ken Stanger said:


> Doug Weil just left my house from calibrating my 5040UB. Very knowledgeable person, friendly and explained everything he was doing. He calibrated for HD, HDR10 and SDR2020. I had tried to calibrate the projector several times and just couldn't figure out why I wasn't having any luck at getting it right and watching Doug I discovered a couple things I was doing wrong. Still couldn't have gotten as close as Doug did at least for quite some time. If you are in need of projector calibration, get a hold of Doug and see if he will trek out to your area, if it's not too far, he's the best.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Doug, I really appreciate your time and willingness to come to the No. Ga. Mountains for this.




Ken, I had Doug calibrate mine as well a couple years ago when it first came out. Agree that he is very knowledgeable. I’d be interested in comparing some settings as he spent a lot of time doing HDR and SDR2020 but he admittedly hadn’t had much time with the Epson and calibrating HDR was pretty new at the time. Not sure if I’ll have time with the pj tomorrow but when I do I’ll copy my settings and PM you.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

Lithium said:


> Dave, it's up to you but you could update/add to your sig links to point to this document here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352
> 
> It contains your classic HarperVision, Bright HarperVision, and HarperVision w/ Oledurt suggestions (which is my personal favorite).
> 
> Also, lots of people have the Panny 820 and this insight for HarperVision gets lost very quickly in here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-555.html#post57464488


I take back what I said. Apparently there was a Dave Harper Bright Cinema setting. Lost in the shuffle indeed.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Hawkmarket said:


> Went over to friends house today and they have a 5040. Super nice folks and they are the type that are simply plug and play projector users. They turned it on, have it on bright cinema medium power and that's the only adjustment. They did express that they have now gone through two lamps that burned out VERY quickly. One at 1,400 hours and the other at less than 500. Filter was cleaned, no other obvious issues that we are aware of. They again ordered another lamp but they are working with Best Buy and Nebraska Furniture Mart to help them figure it out and of course they have no idea. I told them I would turn to my trusted people (that's you all) to help diagnose this or make them aware of a known issue. I can't tell you what they are seeing when this happens as I just heard about it all today. Any guidance on what to do would be helpful.


Checking back in on this one last time to see if anyone has any guidance. Thanks for any help that can be provided.


----------



## ricktb

*6040 + hdfury puzzle*

I'm racking my brain trying to find a confirmation for 4k HDR workarounds.
I know the 6040 has the bandwidth limitations etc. I have a Vero 4k + and i want to slap a
hdfury linker on it and tell it to output uhd movies to 4k 24hz 10 bit 4:2:2 rec 2020 to the epson, seems simple enough.



Can anyone who owns one confirm it can actually do this because in the documentation I've seen it mentions at the bottom under know limitations that it can't.


Is it something to do with HDMI spec? Am I never going to see 4k hdr in 10 bit on this projector.
The calculator I used shows these settings coming in under 10GBps.


----------



## Hossien Oveys

Anyone have a connection to Epson or an authorized dealer that can either get you on a list or a way of getting a refurb unit. Trying to get one off of the Epson Clearance page is like trying to buyWorld Series tickets or something, keep refreshing to see if they are available and no one has time for that!


----------



## confused2much

Hossien Oveys said:


> Anyone have a connection to Epson or an authorized dealer that can either get you on a list or a way of getting a refurb unit. Trying to get one off of the Epson Clearance page is like trying to buyWorld Series tickets or something, keep refreshing to see if they are available and no one has time for that!


They're in stock right now. Not sure how many but maybe if you hurry you'll get one.


----------



## Hossien Oveys

confused2much said:


> They're in stock right now. Not sure how many but maybe if you hurry you'll get one.


i was just coming back to reply that they just popped up again. I even called them earlier and they said they weren't, but whatever, i finally got one! Now what kind of mount... since i saved so much money on the PJ, i can spend a little more on a good mount. Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## impetigo

To keep the image bright what would be a "reasonable" hours used before changing out the lamp? I can't recall how bright it used to be when new so I don't have anything to compare to but brightness is important b/c I watch many 3D movies. I don't use it terribly often, maybe 5-10 hours a week, if that.


----------



## xbladr

Hossien Oveys said:


> i was just coming back to reply that they just popped up again. I even called them earlier and they said they weren't, but whatever, i finally got one! Now what kind of mount... since i saved so much money on the PJ, i can spend a little more on a good mount. Anyone have any suggestions?


I use the peerless universal which I like a lot. Also chief makes a great one which was posted a little further up in this thread

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Hossien Oveys

xbladr said:


> I use the peerless universal which I like a lot. Also chief makes a great one which was posted a little further up in this thread
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


Thanks, taking a look at these, the Chief ones, do you have to use a drop down rod for it or can it sit flush? I need the PJ to be as close to the ceiling as possible. I also put up about 1inch of plywood between the joists so i should have an easy time mounting whatever. Are Chief mounts the best to try to reduce vibrations from floor walking above it?


----------



## inspector

Hossien Oveys said:


> Thanks, taking a look at these, the Chief ones, do you have to use a drop down rod for it or can it sit flush? I need the PJ to be as close to the ceiling as possible. I also put up about 1inch of plywood between the joists so i should have an easy time mounting whatever. Are Chief mounts the best to try to reduce vibrations from floor walking above it?


This is the one that comes with the 6040. Good luck!


https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF4...ACK-NEW-NIB-/202641973018?hash=item2f2e671f1a


----------



## gene4ht

IMO and experience, Chief mounts are the most sturdy, flexible, and easily adjustable mounts available...PJ can be removed and replaced quickly and precisely...no fiddling needed. Clearance between PJ and ceiling is about 2”. No need for an extension rod unless needed. Relative to floor vibrations from above, it is more dependent on the type of flooring you have. I’ve had no vibration issues at all. Good luck with your decision...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-510.html#post56648274


----------



## paindonthurt

Hossien Oveys said:


> xbladr said:
> 
> 
> 
> I use the peerless universal which I like a lot. Also chief makes a great one which was posted a little further up in this thread
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, taking a look at these, the Chief ones, do you have to use a drop down rod for it or can it sit flush? I need the PJ to be as close to the ceiling as possible. I also put up about 1inch of plywood between the joists so i should have an easy time mounting whatever. Are Chief mounts the best to try to reduce vibrations from floor walking above it?
Click to expand...

I use a Peerless mount but I think I’m changing to Chief because it’s easier to take down if necessary. I have almost identical mounting that you have. But I used a 2x12 to make sure it’s sturdy enough. I only get vibrations when certain people are walking upstairs. (You can’t see any cords now. All hidden)


----------



## Hossien Oveys

inspector said:


> This is the one that comes with the 6040. Good luck!
> 
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF4...ACK-NEW-NIB-/202641973018?hash=item2f2e671f1a


I'm assuming it works with the 5040 then too? Is it close to ceiling or does it need to come down some still? 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jt7272

Hossien Oveys said:


> inspector said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one that comes with the 6040. Good luck!
> 
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF4...ACK-NEW-NIB-/202641973018?hash=item2f2e671f1a
> 
> 
> 
> I'm assuming it works with the 5040 then too? Is it close to ceiling or does it need to come down some still?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It drops the projector about 6 inches, if I remember correctly. The vertical column is actually a steel pipe nipple with standard NPT threads on the ends. You could go to a local home improvement store and get a replacement nipple with threaded ends that is a different length. You would only have to spray paint it to match.


----------



## Theriddler07sms

Looking at putting a projector in my new theater room which is very small. Roughly 12x12. Will a 5040ub throw a 100" or 110" screen if mounted against a wall? roughly 10.5' throw distance..


----------



## xbladr

paindonthurt said:


> I use a Peerless mount but I think I’m changing to Chief because it’s easier to take down if necessary. I have almost identical mounting that you have. But I used a 2x12 to make sure it’s sturdy enough. I only get vibrations when certain people are walking upstairs. (You can’t see any cords now. All hidden)


Which peerless mount? I find mine incredibly easy to use. One thumb screw and you can slide it out of the mount. 

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

Hawkmarket said:


> Went over to friends house today and they have a 5040. Super nice folks and they are the type that are simply plug and play projector users. They turned it on, have it on bright cinema medium power and that's the only adjustment. They did express that they have now gone through two lamps that burned out VERY quickly. One at 1,400 hours and the other at less than 500. Filter was cleaned, no other obvious issues that we are aware of. They again ordered another lamp but they are working with Best Buy and Nebraska Furniture Mart to help them figure it out and of course they have no idea. I told them I would turn to my trusted people (that's you all) to help diagnose this or make them aware of a known issue. I can't tell you what they are seeing when this happens as I just heard about it all today. Any guidance on what to do would be helpful.


I recommend you have your friend contact Epson tech support. They will determine if there is an issue with the projector and provide guidance on what they need to do. If their projector is still under warranty they might get a replacement overnighted to them. If not, they might still help them out. My experiences with Epson support have been very positive. They really bend over backwards to make sure customers are satisfied.


----------



## titan ii

Theriddler07sms said:


> Looking at putting a projector in my new theater room which is very small. Roughly 12x12. Will a 5040ub throw a 100" or 110" screen if mounted against a wall? roughly 10.5' throw distance..


See pages 27-29.
https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd51749.pdf


----------



## bigbadbob

Ken Stanger said:


> So the below is my current pro-calibrated settings for 4K UHD HDR10 and BD. The room setting is complete darkness as that's the way I like to watch my movies.
> 
> View attachment 2565376


Thank you


----------



## confused2much

jt7272 said:


> It drops the projector about 6 inches, if I remember correctly. The vertical column is actually a steel pipe nipple with standard NPT threads on the ends. You could go to a local home improvement store and get a replacement nipple with threaded ends that is a different length. You would only have to spray paint it to match.


EDIT: Nevermind. Figured it out.

Any idea what the difference is between the CHF4500 you linked to and the CHF2500 mentioned earlier in the thread? I tried to search for the answer but didn't see much.


----------



## Archaea

confused2much said:


> EDIT: Nevermind. Figured it out.
> 
> Any idea what the difference is between the CHF4500 you linked to and the CHF2500 mentioned earlier in the thread? I tried to search for the answer but didn't see much.




My understanding is they both work for the 5040ub, but I don’t know the difference. What’d you find?


----------



## confused2much

Archaea said:


> My understanding is they both work for the 5040ub, but I don’t know the difference. What’d you find?


Pulling up the manuals, the 2500 appears to have a smaller plate with fewer mounting holes that attach to the projector. I imagine that it's intended for fewer mounting holes than we have on the 5040ub, maybe smaller models. Maybe it still works, couldn't find that information.


----------



## Theriddler07sms

titan ii said:


> See pages 27-29.
> https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd51749.pdf


So 100" would work at least haha. might be able to shoot it thru a closet and be further back but how is the horizontal lens adjustment? I've heard up and down adjustment isnt a bad thing but side to side shouldn't be done.


----------



## Archaea

confused2much said:


> Pulling up the manuals, the 2500 appears to have a smaller plate with fewer mounting holes that attach to the projector. I imagine that it's intended for fewer mounting holes than we have on the 5040ub, maybe smaller models. Maybe it still works, couldn't find that information.


I've read multiple places that the CHF2500 is a companion to the Epson 6040UB in package deals - and so it'd have to work for the 5040UB too - since the differences between 5040UB and 6040UB chassis is only that of color of plastic - AFAIK.


----------



## squigly1

Send computer desktop to projector and do web things. Can this be done using Epson multi pc projection or iProjection application as long as the 5040 is plugged into the network? Trying to avoid having to run a really long HDMI cable to the receiver, at least in the short term.

Thanks


----------



## filipp2442

Just got mine in, I do not have a light controlled room(gets dark but not 100%) & have a white ceiling. Which setting should I be using from the sheet?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B16ec_LIQB_wMnJ2TTFKamJuWnFDZnZjN1lLRjh2NlN5ZnVz/view

Dave Harper Bright Cinema one?


----------



## xbladr

filipp2442 said:


> Just got mine in, I do not have a light controlled room(gets dark but not 100%) & have a white ceiling. Which setting should I be using from the sheet?
> 
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B16ec_LIQB_wMnJ2TTFKamJuWnFDZnZjN1lLRjh2NlN5ZnVz/view
> 
> 
> 
> Dave Harper Bright Cinema one?


I like Dave's a lot. I have used Dave's and oledurts both are good. Try each and see which you like more. The reason I wanted bright is for the extra pop and I didn't want to have to change advanced settings every time I go between hdr and sdr

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Justins123

*Len Shift Not Working*

Hi All - Just received my refurb 5040ub today. Hooked it up and it appears lens shift is not working. Zoom and focus work fine, but lens shift does not work - the picture does not move at all. I've tired using the remote and the bottons on the projector. There's no sound from the projector's lens when attempting to adjust lens shift.

Any ideas? I tried searching this thread and came up empty.


----------



## roland6465

Justins123 said:


> Hi All - Just received my refurb 5040ub today. Hooked it up and it appears lens shift is not working. Zoom and focus work fine, but lens shift does not work - the picture does not move at all. I've tired using the remote and the bottons on the projector. There's no sound from the projector's lens when attempting to adjust lens shift.
> 
> Any ideas? I tried searching this thread and came up empty.



Call Epson and raise hell. The lack of QC for their refurbs is the reason I now have a Sony.


----------



## Archaea

Justins123 said:


> Hi All - Just received my refurb 5040ub today. Hooked it up and it appears lens shift is not working. Zoom and focus work fine, but lens shift does not work - the picture does not move at all. I've tired using the remote and the bottons on the projector. There's no sound from the projector's lens when attempting to adjust lens shift.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas? I tried searching this thread and came up empty.




On my unit you have to hold the lens shift button about 2 seconds before it begins to move. Sorry hold it for a few seconds. — and try moving it in all four directions. It’s possible you may be maxed out in one direction. Also try reducing zoom to less than max if you are maxed before you lensshift

Finally you may try reset all under options and try lens shift first thing.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## filipp2442

Anyone with the Chief CHF2500 mount? I got mine in from Ebay but can't seem to figure out where the screws are for the ceiling mount portion? The manual doesn't even show any screws for the ceiling mount and nothing in the box.


----------



## Archaea

filipp2442 said:


> Anyone with the Chief CHF2500 mount? I got mine in from Ebay but can't seem to figure out where the screws are for the ceiling mount portion? The manual doesn't even show any screws for the ceiling mount and nothing in the box.




For the x shaped piece? You may just have to buy “lag bolts” for the ceiling joist.


----------



## filipp2442

Archaea said:


> For the x shaped piece? You may just have to buy “lag bolts” for the ceiling joist.


Yes the X shaped circle thing since I assume that's what mounts to the ceiling.Do you have a link to the ones you recommend? Trying to buy everything before a professional installer comes this weekend.


----------



## jt7272

filipp2442 said:


> Anyone with the Chief CHF2500 mount? I got mine in from Ebay but can't seem to figure out where the screws are for the ceiling mount portion? The manual doesn't even show any screws for the ceiling mount and nothing in the box.


I have this mount and I honestly don't know if it came with mounting screws. I don't have any in the box. Honestly I wouldn't use them anyways. You should always use the proper fastener for the substrate rather than just generic screws, especially when you are mounting a projector! I also suggest using lag bolts into your studs/joists. Or you could make an adapter plate (lag bolts from plate to studs/joists, wood screws from mount to plate if wood, machine screws if using a tapped aluminum plate).


----------



## Archaea

filipp2442 said:


> Yes the X shaped circle thing since I assume that's what mounts to the ceiling.Do you have a link to the ones you recommend? Trying to buy everything before a professional installer comes this weekend.




No super specific screw necessary. Take the base plate to Home Depot or the hardware store of your choice and ask them to point you to the lag bolt (aka lag screw) section. Pick something that fits in the mounting holes. Your installer can probably handle this if you aren’t comfortable with picking the bolt.


----------



## GCS

Would any of you 5040 guys spend an extra $1400-$1700 for a 5050 over this unit?

Really struggling with the decision - asking in the 5050 thread of course I get spinning heads and 100% worth it comments and that the 2 are like night and day etc.

This would of course be a used 5040 (or refurb from Epson if I can win the refurb lottery on their site).

Current user of a 4+ year old Epson 3000 that I have had no issues with that I recall and I am on my second bulb.


Mostly worried about having to spend hours on end dialing in the 5040 whereas the 5050 seems basically solid out the box from what I am reading. That and I guess I am being a cheap a$$ about dropping 3k on the 5050 (guess I am getting old - either that or those tuition payments have finally kicked me in the nuts enough at this point )

Anyway just looking for current users thoughts.


FYI my only experience with 4k has been seeing pics, seeing in stores. We do have an LG 4k set in our bedroom which looks pretty good on some shows (very lifelike - almost too much so that it appears fake) but no colors don't always seem right. Granted this is just comcrap and some streaming via amazon (Game of Thrones mainly).

Also we have no need or any worry about 4k gaming. Only gaming in there is some old school Xbox 360 Rock Band just dance. Everything in there is Blurays, regular comcrap TV, and streaming via TIVO Bolt or amazon fire. Oh and lots of plex too

TIA


----------



## paindonthurt

filipp2442 said:


> Anyone with the Chief CHF2500 mount? I got mine in from Ebay but can't seem to figure out where the screws are for the ceiling mount portion? The manual doesn't even show any screws for the ceiling mount and nothing in the box.


I used lag screws in mine which is similar to your mounting situation. (Lag bolts aren’t pointed and you’ll need nuts. So lag screws are better in this situation imo)


----------



## Archaea

GCS said:


> Would any of you 5040 guys spend an extra $1400-$1700 for a 5050 over this unit?
> 
> 
> 
> Really struggling with the decision - asking in the 5050 thread of course I get spinning heads and 100% worth it comments and that the 2 are like night and day etc.
> 
> 
> 
> This would of course be a used 5040 (or refurb from Epson if I can win the refurb lottery on their site).
> 
> 
> 
> Current user of a 4+ year old Epson 3000 that I have had no issues with that I recall and I am on my second bulb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mostly worried about having to spend hours on end dialing in the 5040 whereas the 5050 seems basically solid out the box from what I am reading. That and I guess I am being a cheap a$$ about dropping 3k on the 5050 (guess I am getting old - either that or those tuition payments have finally kicked me in the nuts enough at this point )
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway just looking for current users thoughts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI my only experience with 4k has been seeing pics, seeing in stores. We do have an LG 4k set in our bedroom which looks pretty good on some shows (very lifelike - almost too much so that it appears fake) but no colors don't always seem right. Granted this is just comcrap and some streaming via amazon (Game of Thrones mainly).
> 
> 
> 
> Also we have no need or any worry about 4k gaming. Only gaming in there is some old school Xbox 360 Rock Band just dance. Everything in there is Blurays, regular comcrap TV, and streaming via TIVO Bolt or amazon fire. Oh and lots of plex too
> 
> 
> 
> TIA




Night and day difference?

The only people saying that are people trying to justify their purchase.

It’s $1200 shipped and taxed for a 5040UB refurb vs $2800 for a 5050UB.

That’s $1600 difference.

The 5050UB is probably 10-15% better than the 5040UB from what I read.

I can’t think of any generational product that’s worth 233% more money than the previous gen. The 5050UB doesn’t break that line of thinking. 

Unless $1600 is throw away money for you grab the 5040UB and don’t look back.

Also note that the next big thing is HDMI 2.1, and the 5050UB doesn’t have it. I had decided I didn’t really want to spend $3500 range in a JVC projector that didn’t have HDMI 2.1 - when that tech is probably one year out — same applies here to the 5040UB.


----------



## GCS

Archaea said:


> Night and day difference?
> 
> The only people saying that are people trying to justify their purchase.
> 
> It’s $1200 shipped and taxed for a 5040UB refurb vs $2800 for a 5050UB.
> 
> That’s $1600 difference.
> 
> The 5050UB is probably 10-15% better than the 5040UB from what I read.
> 
> I can’t think of any generational product that’s worth 233% more money than the previous gen. The 5050UB doesn’t break that line of thinking.
> 
> Unless $1600 is throw away money for you grab the 5040UB and don’t look back.
> 
> Also note that the next big thing is HDMI 2.1, and the 5050UB doesn’t have it. I had decided I didn’t really want to spend $3500 range in a JVC projector that didn’t have HDMI 2.1 - when that tech is probably one year out — same applies here to the 5040UB.


Thanks I am probably not going to try the refurb lottery but instead purchased used for a tad more.

That being said where is the 5050 for $2800 I haven't seen it at that price point


----------



## Archaea

GCS said:


> Thanks I am probably not going to try the refurb lottery but instead purchased used for a tad more.
> 
> That being said where is the 5050 for $2800 I haven't seen it at that price point



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...3063442-epson-home-cinema-5050ub-2-799-a.html


----------



## gene4ht

Archaea said:


> Night and day difference?
> 
> The only people saying that are people trying to justify their purchase..


Exactly...


----------



## Archaea

I’m having real bad luck with dust blobs on these refurb 5040UB

Has anyone opened one up and tried to fix it themselves? Are there instructions for such. I got an otherwise good refurb the third try now that didn’t start with a bad dust blob, but 10 hours in now and it’s got a big one on the top right... ughhh. The first two had dust blobs immediately out the refurb box. It’s under warranty of course, but It’s not easy to get these refurb units replaced. You have to catch them when they have them in stock, just as if you were trying to buy one the first time. My room/house is not overly dusty. It doesn’t make sense.


----------



## --Sclaws

GCS said:


> Would any of you 5040 guys spend an extra $1400-$1700 for a 5050 over this unit?
> 
> Really struggling with the decision - asking in the 5050 thread of course I get spinning heads and 100% worth it comments and that the 2 are like night and day etc.
> 
> This would of course be a used 5040 (or refurb from Epson if I can win the refurb lottery on their site).
> 
> Current user of a 4+ year old Epson 3000 that I have had no issues with that I recall and I am on my second bulb.
> 
> 
> Mostly worried about having to spend hours on end dialing in the 5040 whereas the 5050 seems basically solid out the box from what I am reading. That and I guess I am being a cheap a$$ about dropping 3k on the 5050 (guess I am getting old - either that or those tuition payments have finally kicked me in the nuts enough at this point )
> 
> Anyway just looking for current users thoughts.
> 
> 
> FYI my only experience with 4k has been seeing pics, seeing in stores. We do have an LG 4k set in our bedroom which looks pretty good on some shows (very lifelike - almost too much so that it appears fake) but no colors don't always seem right. Granted this is just comcrap and some streaming via amazon (Game of Thrones mainly).
> 
> Also we have no need or any worry about 4k gaming. Only gaming in there is some old school Xbox 360 Rock Band just dance. Everything in there is Blurays, regular comcrap TV, and streaming via TIVO Bolt or amazon fire. Oh and lots of plex too
> 
> TIA


For an answer from someone who actually owned a 5040 and now a 5050, the upgrade was worth it TO ME. Its not a 2nd coming of Christ or anything, but HDR is greatly improved, and that's what I wanted. I previously would not use Digital Cinema for any HDR as it was too dim for my tastes, and I could never quite get the 5040 calibrated to the point that I was happy with the result. With the 5050, Digital Cinema is 100% useful now--not too dim, great color and depth...it's my go-to for 4K HDR and even PS4 Pro HDR games. I'm also now out from under the cloud of the 5040's power supply issue (which I did experience as well)...and no, I obviously cannot predict what issues the 5050 may have in the future.

The one real point armchair reviewers are right about it that no, it wasn't cheap...but for me it was worth it.


----------



## GCS

--Sclaws said:


> For an answer from someone who actually owned a 5040 and now a 5050, the upgrade was worth it TO ME. Its not a 2nd coming of Christ or anything, but HDR is greatly improved, and that's what I wanted. I previously would not use Digital Cinema for any HDR as it was too dim for my tastes, and I could never quite get the 5040 calibrated to the point that I was happy with the result. With the 5050, Digital Cinema is 100% useful now--not too dim, great color and depth...it's my go-to for 4K HDR and even PS4 Pro HDR games. I'm also now out from under the cloud of the 5040's power supply issue (which I did experience as well)...and no, I obviously cannot predict what issues the 5050 may have in the future.
> 
> The one real point armchair reviewers are right about it that no, it wasn't cheap...but for me it was worth it.


Yeah the PS issues are a deep concern obviously.

And your comments about getting the picture on the 5040 right are my other concern. I truly don't have hours on end to spend tweaking settings and changing things. I have too much going on in life to deal with that and I want to be able to sit down and enjoy my watching not go that isn't right let me fiddle with this and that etc. And of course the family wouldn't have a clue what the fuss would be about either.

I definitely do not want to deal with refurb roulette on the 5040 either. Just reading about how many people have had to swap theirs out is ridiculous. If I wanted to spend 5k+ I would look at Sony or JVC but that is not my budget range at all so its the 5050 (max budget), used 5040 or 4010 (which I have kind of ruled out as the 5040 seems a fair bit better) or I stick stick with my 4 year old Epson 3000 and do w/o.

For once I am being real stingy about spending money on my HT - crazy I know. Guess I need to hope someone puts the 5050 on sale would love one right at $2500 if possible. I missed the ones at $2799 which isn't tremendous but every little bit helps.


----------



## tran1981

Archaea said:


> I’m having real bad luck with dust blobs on these refurb 5040UB
> 
> Has anyone opened one up and tried to fix it themselves? Are there instructions for such. I got an otherwise good refurb the third try now that didn’t start with a bad dust blob, but 10 hours in now and it’s got a big one on the top right... ughhh. The first two had dust blobs immediately out the refurb box. It’s under warranty of course, but It’s not easy to get these refurb units replaced. You have to catch them when they have them in stock, just as if you were trying to buy one the first time. My room/house is not overly dusty. It doesn’t make sense.



I have small dust blob on my refurb 5040UB that I just received. It is not really visible during movie play. Wondering if it is worth it to exchange and play Epson refurb roulette again since their QA/QC process is subpar plus you have to wait for in stock refurb to get replacement.


----------



## YogiBizz

I recently purchased a 5040 and was wondering if anyone had links to calibrations for Image Enhancement Settings? I used Spears and Munsils calibration disk but I'm curious if anything more advanced will increase picture quality. I have a light controlled HT with a 1.1 gain white screen, for what its worth. Thank you.


----------



## xbladr

YogiBizz said:


> I recently purchased a 5040 and was wondering if anyone had links to calibrations for Image Enhancement Settings? I used Spears and Munsils calibration disk but I'm curious if anything more advanced will increase picture quality. I have a light controlled HT with a 1.1 gain white screen, for what its worth. Thank you.


A calibration sheet was posted 20-50 posts up. 

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

tran1981 said:


> I have small dust blob on my refurb 5040UB that I just received. It is not really visible during movie play. Wondering if it is worth it to exchange and play Epson refurb roulette again since their QA/QC process is subpar plus you have to wait for in stock refurb to get replacement.



Par for the course. You just have to keep sending them back. I had 4 refurb replacements, and a fifth new, all of which had something wrong with them. Yes, Epson is fast on turnaround for defective units, but they're replacing crap with crap.


----------



## Archaea

roland6465 said:


> Par for the course. You just have to keep sending them back. I had 4 refurb replacements, and a fifth new, all of which had something wrong with them. Yes, Epson is fast on turnaround for defective units, but they're replacing crap with crap.




Why do they do this??? They aren’t even fast about replacing them anymore. Gone is overnight shipping. Worse yet is they have none in stock to replace. You have to catch a refurb in stock in order to replace it. Otherwise they just offer you a refund. That means I’m trying to watch the for sale page as often, and in competition with anyone else trying to buy one. P.S. lthey only last minutes in stock, and they seem to come into stock just a couple times a week. I’ve got multiple alerting systems setup for in stock notification so I can try to catch the time to call in for RMA. They inexplicably will NOT hold a unit for you for RMA anymore. My third one is going back now. This is NOT good customer service, nor is it a pleasant buying experience. This will be my last Epson, unless they significantly change in the future.

1st refurb Epson - purchased early April, pink discoloration in top right corner. It also has two minor dust blobs, but I was figuring I could live with them. They were relatively faint.









2nd refurb Epson RMA replacement - six dust blobs on black image straight out of box - terrible. Boxed it back up immediately, no way I’m keeping that.









3rd refurb Epson RMA replacement - thought was good. 10 hours in a single bright dust blob appears in top right. Where did that come from? It’s going back. Dust blobs are luckily covered under warranty, but now I’ve got concerns that these 5040UBs are just a problem waiting to happen with future dust blobs popping up and ruining the experience when the projector falls out of warranty in 2 years. I have a blacked out theater room. Bright dust blobs are unacceptable to me as a projector owner.


----------



## roland6465

The dust blobs on most of the refurbs (two of mine had them out of the box) is proof to me that all they do to pass QC is turn it on to make sure it fires up. Anyone with 15 minutes of training could look at the image and reject it. 



Also, the open "light engine" is a big fat fail. Dust happens, and if your fan is sucking it in, even through a filter, it's going to get in there.


----------



## filipp2442

I have some faint pink discoloration on white on the right half of mine but its not anywhere as bad as your picture, very faint. I think that's the only thing wrong with mine so I'm going to keep it.


----------



## Zoltrix

Hi all,

In Australia you can get the 6040UB (EH-TW9300) for half the price compared to the new 6050UB (EH-TW9400). Is it worth getting the 6040UB at half the cost? Or is the 6050UB worth paying the extra for?

Cheers,
Zolt


----------



## hnupe

*Replacement Bulb Help*

I need to replace my bulb, however the replacement bulb did not come with an "Epson Screwdriver" any recommendations on what I can use to open up my 5040UB?

Thanks


----------



## filipp2442

Finally got my 5040UB ceiling mounted about 19' away from the screen and unfortunately it seems to be short of the 150" of my screen, maybe gets to around 130-140" with there being distance on the top/bottom. Anyone have any ideas for me or a setting I could maybe change? Unfortunately can't mount it back any further.


----------



## Archaea

hnupe said:


> I need to replace my bulb, however the replacement bulb did not come with an "Epson Screwdriver" any recommendations on what I can use to open up my 5040UB?
> 
> Thanks


Huh?

Any number 1 or number 2 Phillips head screwdriver will work just fine.


----------



## paindonthurt

Are the people having dust issues just 5040 model or both?


----------



## hnupe

Archaea said:


> Huh?
> 
> Any number 1 or number 2 Phillips head screwdriver will work just fine.



Thanks....it was easy....I was being overly cautious.


----------



## john hunter

Zoltrix said:


> Hi all,
> 
> In Australia you can get the 6040UB (EH-TW9300) for half the price compared to the new 6050UB (EH-TW9400). Is it worth getting the 6040UB at half the cost? Or is the 6050UB worth paying the extra for?
> 
> Cheers,
> Zolt


Hi Zolt,
I got my 9300w about 3 months ago for about AUD 4k.
Knew the ones were imminent but on an 8ft wide CS screen the differences would be minimal and not worth the substantial price difference.
Been very happy with it.


----------



## Liquid$team

GCS said:


> Yeah the PS issues are a deep concern obviously.
> 
> And your comments about getting the picture on the 5040 right are my other concern. I truly don't have hours on end to spend tweaking settings and changing things. I have too much going on in life to deal with that and I want to be able to sit down and enjoy my watching not go that isn't right let me fiddle with this and that etc. And of course the family wouldn't have a clue what the fuss would be about either.
> 
> I definitely do not want to deal with refurb roulette on the 5040 either. Just reading about how many people have had to swap theirs out is ridiculous. If I wanted to spend 5k+ I would look at Sony or JVC but that is not my budget range at all so its the 5050 (max budget), used 5040 or 4010 (which I have kind of ruled out as the 5040 seems a fair bit better) or I stick stick with my 4 year old Epson 3000 and do w/o.
> 
> For once I am being real stingy about spending money on my HT - crazy I know. Guess I need to hope someone puts the 5050 on sale would love one right at $2500 if possible. I missed the ones at $2799 which isn't tremendous but every little bit helps.


The 5050's are still for sale at $2799. You didn't miss it. Everybody has them at that price.


----------



## Zoltrix

john hunter said:


> Hi Zolt,
> I got my 9300w about 3 months ago for about AUD 4k.
> Knew the ones were imminent but on an 8ft wide CS screen the differences would be minimal and not worth the substantial price difference.
> Been very happy with it.


Thanks for the info John. Are you playing a lot of 4k content on it ? And any HDR content?


----------



## Mr.G

filipp2442 said:


> Finally got my 5040UB ceiling mounted about 19' away from the screen and unfortunately it seems to be short of the 150" of my screen, maybe gets to around 130-140" with there being distance on the top/bottom. Anyone have any ideas for me or a setting I could maybe change? Unfortunately can't mount it back any further.


Is this for a regular 16:9 screen or scope? For 150" (16:9) screen you are well within the throw range at 19 feet.


----------



## john hunter

Zoltrix said:


> Thanks for the info John. Are you playing a lot of 4k content on it ? And any HDR content?


Have been sitting on about a dozen 4k UHD's while trying to sort out my mount for my A lens but still having fun watching bits and pieces.
Great HDR using some of the settings in this thread. 
Harpervision is a great start but Nielvm's UHR and SDR settings worked the best for me with a little adjustment.
Blue Planet looked superb.


----------



## xbladr

john hunter said:


> Have been sitting on about a dozen 4k UHD's while trying to sort out my mount for my A lens but still having fun watching bits and pieces.
> 
> Great HDR using some of the settings in this thread.
> 
> Harpervision is a great start but Nielvm's UHR and SDR settings worked the best for me with a little adjustment.
> 
> Blue Planet looked superb.


Where are nielvms settings? I'll give them a shot. They must be newer and not added to the document

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## wullon

ComradeBrehznev said:


> I would like to request 5040ub owners to listen to recordings of my projector to help determine whether there is an issue. The Epson tech support claim it is 60Hz hum, but that is completely wrong. I hear a lower frequency noise that seems like it would be the fan bearings not the fan blades. It occurs with no input, it's not the 4K shifting noise some have mentioned. It is worse at low speed since there is less fan blade blowing noise. You may have to turn your volume high. Thanks.
> This recording is the fan noise, followed by power off so you hear the lens close and then the fan noise slow down and stop. Does yours sound like that? It's loud enough to be bothersome.
> dropbox.com/s/89aa3q6g39vvedf/Proj%20Noise%20Power%20Off.m4a?dl=0


Hello,

I have exactly the same issue.

Can some other people confirm this noise is NOT normal?
@ComradeBrehznev : did you manage to find a solution?

Thank you very much


----------



## john hunter

xbladr said:


> Where are nielvms settings? I'll give them a shot. They must be newer and not added to the document
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


If you look around pages 555 and 558 you'll find Niel's settings. He did two ,the second tightened the first and those worked better for me with the black level adjusted.


----------



## xbladr

Thx I'll take a look

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## filipp2442

Mr.G said:


> Is this for a regular 16:9 screen or scope? For 150" (16:9) screen you are well within the throw range at 19 feet.


It should be 150" 16:9, I just measured it and its around 136x78 but at around 19 feet the projector doesn't use up the whole 78", it can fill the whole 136" but doesn't seem to stretch the image enough for up/down on the full 78".


----------



## Mr.G

filipp2442 said:


> It should be 150" 16:9, I just measured it and its around 136x78 but at around 19 feet the projector doesn't use up the whole 78", it can fill the whole 136" but doesn't seem to stretch the image enough for up/down on the full 78".


The Epson calculator lists a throw range of 14' 9.8" - 31' 0.9" for a 150" 16:9 screen.

At 19 feet the 5040UB accommodates a screen width of 13' 11.3" - 6' 8.2" and screen height of 7' 10.1" - 3' 9.1". A diagonal screen size from 191.9" - 92 ".

Is this a brand new projector or purchased used? If used, try resetting to factory specs - page 120 of the owner's manual.


----------



## filipp2442

Mr.G said:


> The Epson calculator lists a throw range of 14' 9.8" - 31' 0.9" for a 150" 16:9 screen.
> 
> At 19 feet the 5040UB accommodates a screen width of 13' 11.3" - 6' 8.2" and screen height of 7' 10.1" - 3' 9.1". A diagonal screen size from 191.9" - 92 ".
> 
> Is this a brand new projector or purchased used? If used, try resetting to factory specs - page 120 of the owner's manual.


I bought it refurb from the Epson store. Did the reset, seems like its because I have to do -20 on Keystone that it shrinks it and won't fit.


----------



## filipp2442

Different issue but I can't seem to get HDR to show. I'm using a gaming laptop with a 1050 ti through HDMI to my Yamaha TSR-7850 to the 5040UB. In the screenshot below it shows MadVR saying there is HDR but the projector not showing HDR and I can't seem to get the Nvidia control panel to show the "full" range instead of just limited?


----------



## xbladr

filipp2442 said:


> I bought it refurb from the Epson store. Did the reset, seems like its because I have to do -20 on Keystone that it shrinks it and won't fit.


-20 keystone? Why in the world do you have to do that? We need to see your setup. 

Can you change the refresh rate of the pc to 24ghz and see if that changes anything? Not sure that it would but because of the limited bandwidth on the 5040 hdmi port it may. Also I don't know anything about that Yamaha but can you get hdr to a TV or anything else over the same port on it? The reason I ask is because there was an hdmi range setting on my friends Sony receiver we had to configure to show hdr 

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## filipp2442

xbladr said:


> -20 keystone? Why in the world do you have to do that? We need to see your setup.
> 
> Can you change the refresh rate of the pc to 24ghz and see if that changes anything? Not sure that it would but because of the limited bandwidth on the 5040 hdmi port it may. Also I don't know anything about that Yamaha but can you get hdr to a TV or anything else over the same port on it? The reason I ask is because there was an hdmi range setting on my friends Sony receiver we had to configure to show hdr
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


See attached two photos of how its mounted and how the image looks with 0 keystone. For me to get the picture to look line up the edges, it needs around -28 keystone. 

I have the refresh rate set to 24hz in Nvidia Control panel and the native resolution like my previous photo shows so that doesn't seem to help. I tried looking up in the manual on the Yamaha but can't seem to find what to change if there's a setting to adjust. https://usa.yamaha.com/files/download/other_assets/3/1188333/web_AV17-0350_TSR-7850_om_U_En_B0.pdf 

It says the Yamaha supports 10 bit + HDR; https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/tsr-7850/index.html


----------



## Archaea

@filipp2442,
your projector should be mounted with the lens vertical and parallel to the plane of the projector screen.

You don't want to angle your projector like that. Rather you should use Lens Shift to lower the image, under the focus menu.

Keystone is generally bad for image clarity, and text readability -- don't use it, or use it minimally.


----------



## xbladr

filipp2442 said:


> See attached two photos of how its mounted and how the image looks with 0 keystone. For me to get the picture to look line up the edges, it needs around -28 keystone.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the refresh rate set to 24hz in Nvidia Control panel and the native resolution like my previous photo shows so that doesn't seem to help. I tried looking up in the manual on the Yamaha but can't seem to find what to change if there's a setting to adjust. https://usa.yamaha.com/files/download/other_assets/3/1188333/web_AV17-0350_TSR-7850_om_U_En_B0.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> It says the Yamaha supports 10 bit + HDR; https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/tsr-7850/index.html


Archae is spot on. Center the projector to the wall its on. On both y and x axis. You do not want any tilt or yaw. Then you can use lens shift to center it on the screen.

Secondly I'm sure the Yamaha can support it but it may say something in the manual. I can try to check it tonight but maybe reach out to Yamaha support and ask

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## filipp2442

Archaea said:


> @filipp2442,
> your projector should be mounted with the lens vertical and parallel to the plane of the projector screen.
> 
> You don't want to angle your projector like that. Rather you should use Lens Shift to lower the image, under the focus menu.
> 
> Keystone is generally bad for image clarity, and text readability -- don't use it, or use it minimally.





xbladr said:


> Archae is spot on. Center the projector to the wall its on. On both y and x axis. You do not want any tilt or yaw. Then you can use lens shift to center it on the screen.
> 
> Secondly I'm sure the Yamaha can support it but it may say something in the manual. I can try to check it tonight but maybe reach out to Yamaha support and ask
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


Ahhhhhhhhhh thank you guys so much! Yes I fixed it on the ceiling and now it shoots the full 150" with 0 Keystone after some adjusting.

Ok let me see if I can call Yamaha now. So you think its a Yamaha AVR issue and not the gaming laptop?


----------



## xbladr

filipp2442 said:


> Ahhhhhhhhhh thank you guys so much! Yes I fixed it on the ceiling and now it shoots the full 150" with 0 Keystone after some adjusting.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok let me see if I can call Yamaha now. So you think its a Yamaha AVR issue and not the gaming laptop?


Absolutely no idea lol. It was just a thought. I dont know if that gaming laptop can pass hdr. I don't know enough about it. I'm just tossing out suggestions 

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## filipp2442

xbladr said:


> Absolutely no idea lol. It was just a thought. I dont know if that gaming laptop can pass hdr. I don't know enough about it. I'm just tossing out suggestions
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


Ok I'm on hold with Yamaha right now, this is the laptop; https://www.bestbuy.com/site/acer-n...ate-drive-shale-black/6212602.p?skuId=6212602


----------



## --Sclaws

filipp2442 said:


> Different issue but I can't seem to get HDR to show. I'm using a gaming laptop with a 1050 ti through HDMI to my Yamaha TSR-7850 to the 5040UB. In the screenshot below it shows MadVR saying there is HDR but the projector not showing HDR and I can't seem to get the Nvidia control panel to show the "full" range instead of just limited?


Dumb question.. Is HDR enabled in Windows? It's not in the nvidia control panel.


----------



## filipp2442

--Sclaws said:


> Dumb question.. Is HDR enabled in Windows? It's not in the nvidia control panel.


I was able to find HDR/WSR to enable on the windows Display and if I enable that it looks like HDR is enabled but it still shows "limited" under the nvidia control panel dynamic range.

If I change back the Nvidia Control panel to use default color settings but keep HDR enabled on windows the projector shows Color Depth 8 bit + BT.2020 HDR(picture 1). If I keep HDR enabled on Windows and change the Nvidia Control Panel to 10 bit, 4:2:2 and "limited" under dynamic range since it doesn't give me an option to do "full" the projector says 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR.

I'm confused now if I should leave it on one of these(Picture 1 or Picture 2) or if I still haven't figured out how to get full dynamic range + HDR + 10 bit + 4:2:2


----------



## Zoltrix

john hunter said:


> Have been sitting on about a dozen 4k UHD's while trying to sort out my mount for my A lens but still having fun watching bits and pieces.
> Great HDR using some of the settings in this thread.
> Harpervision is a great start but Nielvm's UHR and SDR settings worked the best for me with a little adjustment.
> Blue Planet looked superb.


Cool, and what devices are you connecting to play your HDR content?


----------



## Dave Harper

filipp2442 said:


> I was able to find HDR/WSR to enable on the windows Display and if I enable that it looks like HDR is enabled but it still shows "limited" under the nvidia control panel dynamic range.
> 
> 
> 
> If I change back the Nvidia Control panel to use default color settings but keep HDR enabled on windows the projector shows Color Depth 8 bit + BT.2020 HDR(picture 1). If I keep HDR enabled on Windows and change the Nvidia Control Panel to 10 bit, 4:2:2 and "limited" under dynamic range since it doesn't give me an option to do "full" the projector says 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm confused now if I should leave it on one of these(Picture 1 or Picture 2) or if I still haven't figured out how to get full dynamic range + HDR + 10 bit + 4:2:2



Limited is what you want. That setting has nothing to do with HDR. That is setting where your black and white clipping points are. PC signals generally use Full Range 0-255 for 8 bit and video uses the Limited Range 16-235 in 8 bit Video. 0 and 16 are the encoded black levels for each and 235 and 255 are the peak white levels encoded for each type of signal. 

This signal you say you’re getting is what you want to use:

“12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR” in Limited Range for the HDR video.

10 bit 4:2:0 BT.2020 HDR is what it’s encoded at anyway on a UHD Blu-ray Disc or through streaming like Netflix, Amazon, etc.


----------



## Archaea

Limited traditionally kills the black floor it seems to me?

I switched mine to full and liked it better, because blacks were actually black. But I’ll admit to having 1% of your video knowledge Dave, so maybe it’s some other setup option I have wrong that makes me like full better than limited.


----------



## gkman1

*Long time for lamp to turn on/orange light time to time??*

Anyone else having issues where the bulb is taking a few minutes to come on...Also, from time to time, the orange flashing light will come on at start up....I remove the filter, put it back in, and it works fine....Any thoughts or recommendations??/ Thx


----------



## Dave Harper

Archaea said:


> Limited traditionally kills the black floor it seems to me?
> 
> I switched mine to full and liked it better, because blacks were actually black. But I’ll admit to having 1% of your video knowledge Dave, so maybe it’s some other setup option I have wrong that makes me like full better than limited.



Well the source and the display have to be using the same mode, so if your source is sending full and you put the display at limited then you may have issues. 

I haven’t used an HTPC in a long time but I know with some PCs you do need to send Full and then set the display accordingly. I think XBox is the same. The most important thing is to make sure they match.


----------



## john hunter

Zoltrix said:


> Cool, and what devices are you connecting to play your HDR content?


Just an Oppo 203 set to 4k with the Epson doing the tone mapping as per Hapervision or Niel's settings.
Both seen to think that the mapping in the recent Panasonic players don't add much if anything.


----------



## Archaea

Would you guys send this refurb 5040UB back? This is my fourth refurb. The color uniformity is off on this one. Am I just being too picky? Do all of these units have these types of issues and people just don't notice or care? Epson keeps telling me every refurb they ship goes through high quality control and should have no issues, same as new - but I can't be that unlucky... right?

It's noticeable on a PC desktop slightly, as it turns pinkish the on the right hand side. I can't see it in a game, but I can see it on avsforum, or on my PC desktop, or on my DVD player's home screen.

Post 301 has pics.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-11.html#post58086802


----------



## Liquid$team

Im debating between a 6040 and a 6050..... Am I correct in assuming the 5040 will not play 4K HDR content?


----------



## monkaquinas

Liquid$team said:


> Im debating between a 6040 and a 6050..... Am I correct in assuming the 5040 will not play 4K HDR content?


The 5040 can play 4k with HDR, it has a chipset that will not accept 4k 60f. The 6040/6050 has a chipset that can. If you pair the 5040 with the UB820 it will play UHD discs with great HDR tone mapping for less than the 6040/6050. Streaming on the UB820 is good, not GREAT.


----------



## Liquid$team

monkaquinas said:


> The 5040 can play 4k with HDR, it has a chipset that will not accept 4k 60f. The 6040/6050 has a chipset that can. If you pair the 5040 with the UB820 it will play UHD discs with great HDR tone mapping for less than the 6040/6050. Streaming on the UB820 is good, not GREAT.


ahhh... ok thanks for the clarification. So the chipset for the 5040 is different from the 6040? I poured over the specifications between the 2 pj's and couldn't find any differences.


----------



## monkaquinas

Liquid$team said:


> ahhh... ok thanks for the clarification. So the chipset for the 5040 is different from the 6040? I poured over the specifications between the 2 pj's and couldn't find any differences.


The chipset is different, the e-shift for 4K is supposed to be better, and the HDR tone mapping has been revamped on the new models. I've only had the 5040 for a year and my first 4K player was the UB820 and I'm very happy with it. I'll probably keep it till it dies. Best of luck on your decision.


----------



## prme19

Anyone knows the model number for the replacement lamp for this projector? Thanks


----------



## titan ii

https://epson.com/listing?q=:releva...3020:productReftypes:LAMP#scrollTgt_onRefresh


----------



## prme19

titan ii said:


> https://epson.com/listing?q=:releva...3020:productReftypes:LAMP#scrollTgt_onRefresh


Thank you.


----------



## Dano2

Liquid$team said:


> ahhh... ok thanks for the clarification. So the chipset for the 5040 is different from the 6040? I poured over the specifications between the 2 pj's and couldn't find any differences.


The chipset is the same 5040/6040. The new 5050 has the new chipset.


----------



## Liquid$team

Dano2 said:


> The chipset is the same 5040/6040. The new 5050 has the new chipset.


Ok. So my decision is between a 6040 or a 6050. I have a marantz 7705 and Panasonic 820. Right now my epson 8500ub will not display 4k from the Panasonic.


----------



## deathstroke

Well, my second replacement 5040UB is now having the same issue as my first one...lamp doesn't strike and fan kicks into high gear for a minute or two until the lamp finally wakes up. Eventually my first one wouldn't turn on and needed replacing. On my current unit, the lamp issue happened twice this week. I've had this unit since late November of last year. I called support and they had me re-seat the lamp. This time the fan went into high gear almost immediately and then maybe 10 seconds later started up normally. If it recurs over the weekend I will call back Tuesday.
How is it that Epson hasn't solved this issue yet? I wonder if the 5050UB has the same problem. I ceiling mount my unit...I wonder if that makes a difference. FYI, my first replacement 5040UB had a huge dust blob so it had to go back...and this one has visible scratches on the lens which thankfully don't affect the picture.
I've had three different Epson models since 2007 and a total of seven individual units (the very first one I bought needed one repair before dying completely, so let's say 7.5 because I got a new mobo and lens unit in the original chassis).
I really wish some other company would come out with a true 4k laser projector in the next year or so under $5000.....
Anyone else have as many issues as me with their Epsons?


----------



## gene4ht

deathstroke said:


> Well, my second replacement 5040UB is now having the same issue as my first one...lamp doesn't strike and fan kicks into high gear for a minute or two until the lamp finally wakes up. Eventually my first one wouldn't turn on and needed replacing. On my current unit, the lamp issue happened twice this week. I've had this unit since late November of last year. I called support and they had me re-seat the lamp. This time the fan went into high gear almost immediately and then maybe 10 seconds later started up normally. If it recurs over the weekend I will call back Tuesday.
> How is it that Epson hasn't solved this issue yet? I wonder if the 5050UB has the same problem. I ceiling mount my unit...I wonder if that makes a difference. FYI, my first replacement 5040UB had a huge dust blob so it had to go back...and this one has visible scratches on the lens which thankfully don't affect the picture.
> I've had three different Epson models since 2007 and a total of seven individual units (the very first one I bought needed one repair before dying completely, so let's say 7.5 because I got a new mobo and lens unit in the original chassis).
> I really wish some other company would come out with a true 4k laser projector in the next year or so under $5000.....
> Anyone else have as many issues as me with their Epsons?


Many of my previous posts in this thread have echoed your same sentiments. Epson has never formally acknowledged any of the consumer issues related to this particular product. It appears that the corporate position for product remedy is play "exchange roulette" until the customer stops complaining. I initally thought this was a cultural thing rather than corporate. However, Onkyo had HDMI failure issues years ago, acknowledged the problem, put a remedy procedure in place, and even extended warranties. In today's world marketplace, full transparency is becoming the norm.'' i.e. automotive industry. Epson ain't there yet!

Specifically to your current issue, my 5040 has "periodically" acted similarly at start up...whirling jet engine as I call it. I've contacted Epson support at various levels and received no plausible answer for this behavior. I recall some posters saying this also occurred with earlier Epson models as well. In any event, this behavior passes and the PJ has performed normally afterward for me.


----------



## gene4ht

deathstroke said:


> Well, my second replacement 5040UB is now having the same issue as my first one...lamp doesn't strike and fan kicks into high gear for a minute or two until the lamp finally wakes up. Eventually my first one wouldn't turn on and needed replacing. On my current unit, the lamp issue happened twice this week. I've had this unit since late November of last year. I called support and they had me re-seat the lamp. This time the fan went into high gear almost immediately and then maybe 10 seconds later started up normally. If it recurs over the weekend I will call back Tuesday.
> *How is it that Epson hasn't solved this issue yet?* I wonder if the 5050UB has the same problem. I ceiling mount my unit...I wonder if that makes a difference. FYI, my first replacement 5040UB had a huge dust blob so it had to go back...and this one has visible scratches on the lens which thankfully don't affect the picture.
> I've had three different Epson models since 2007 and a total of seven individual units (the very first one I bought needed one repair before dying completely, so let's say 7.5 because I got a new mobo and lens unit in the original chassis).
> I really wish some other company would come out with a true 4k laser projector in the next year or so under $5000.....
> Anyone else have as many issues as me with their Epsons?


Along with the power supply failures..."If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I'm being facetious of course!

Many of my previous posts in this thread have echoed your same sentiments. *Epson has never formally acknowledged any of the consumer issues related to this particular product.* It appears that the corporate position for product remedy is play "exchange roulette" until the customer stops complaining. I initally thought this was a cultural thing rather than corporate. However, Onkyo had HDMI failure issues years ago, acknowledged the problem, put a remedy procedure in place, and even extended warranties. In today's world marketplace, full transparency is becoming the norm.'' i.e. automotive industry. Epson ain't there yet!

Specifically to your current issue, my 5040 has "periodically" acted similarly at start up...whirling jet engine as I call it. I've contacted Epson support at various levels and received no plausible answer for this behavior. I recall some posters saying this also occurred with earlier Epson models as well. In any event, this behavior passes and the PJ has performed normally afterward for me.


----------



## paindonthurt

I see people complaining about dust issues etc with the 5040. Is this common with the 6040 too?


----------



## deathstroke

gene4ht said:


> Along with the power supply failures..."If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I'm being facetious of course!
> 
> Many of my previous posts in this thread have echoed your same sentiments. *Epson has never formally acknowledged any of the consumer issues related to this particular product.* It appears that the corporate position for product remedy is play "exchange roulette" until the customer stops complaining. I initally thought this was a cultural thing rather than corporate. However, Onkyo had HDMI failure issues years ago, acknowledged the problem, put a remedy procedure in place, and even extended warranties. In today's world marketplace, full transparency is becoming the norm.'' i.e. automotive industry. Epson ain't there yet!
> 
> Specifically to your current issue, my 5040 has "periodically" acted similarly at start up...whirling jet engine as I call it. I've contacted Epson support at various levels and received no plausible answer for this behavior. I recall some posters saying this also occurred with earlier Epson models as well. In any event, this behavior passes and the PJ has performed normally afterward for me.


Thanks for the support  In Epson's defense, they extended my warranty an extra year so I have until March 2021. Hopefully by that time they either make a more reliable product or I find some other product with as good a picture at a decent price. My gut is telling me to hold onto this individual unit until it either does the jet engine routine way to often or just dies completely. Either way, I think there's a 0% chance I'm going to have this exact unit when March 2021 comes around!
Has anyone had luck just replacing the lamp to fix this, or do you really also need a totally new projector? I have read the previous model had the same problem, and I'd bet the 5050UB does to unless it's a complete redesign (doubtful).


----------



## monkaquinas

paindonthurt said:


> I see people complaining about dust issues etc with the 5040. Is this common with the 6040 too?


I believe this is common to all projectors of the LCD display type. Only DLP has sealed light paths; if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## Archaea

deathstroke said:


> Well, my second replacement 5040UB is now having the same issue as my first one...lamp doesn't strike and fan kicks into high gear for a minute or two until the lamp finally wakes up. Eventually my first one wouldn't turn on and needed replacing. On my current unit, the lamp issue happened twice this week. I've had this unit since late November of last year. I called support and they had me re-seat the lamp. This time the fan went into high gear almost immediately and then maybe 10 seconds later started up normally. If it recurs over the weekend I will call back Tuesday.
> How is it that Epson hasn't solved this issue yet? I wonder if the 5050UB has the same problem. I ceiling mount my unit...I wonder if that makes a difference. FYI, my first replacement 5040UB had a huge dust blob so it had to go back...and this one has visible scratches on the lens which thankfully don't affect the picture.
> I've had three different Epson models since 2007 and a total of seven individual units (the very first one I bought needed one repair before dying completely, so let's say 7.5 because I got a new mobo and lens unit in the original chassis).
> I really wish some other company would come out with a true 4k laser projector in the next year or so under $5000.....
> *Anyone else have as many issues as me with their Epsons?*


Yes,

I'm playing refurb roulette with Epson 5040UB's right now. Epson assures the customer the refurbs have to pass quality control before they are sent out and are as good as new, but that hasn't been my experience. So either I'm unlucky (possible and typical even ) or they really aren't quality checking these refurbs.

Original refurb purchased direct from Espon.com in April had pink hues on the top right corner out of the box - serial number X334691747L
Post 142 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...d-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-5.html#post57917498









1st refurb RMA replacement had six dust blobs fresh out of the box on power up. I didn't even hook it up, I just boxed it back up and sent it back to Epson - serial number - X334710215L
Post 154 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...d-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-6.html#post57956298









2nd refurb RMA replacement had one dust blob that showed up within 10 hours of use. I sent it back - serial number X334770088L
Post 259 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...d-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-9.html#post58059276









3rd refurb RMA replacement had pink hue on the right side of the screen immediatey out of box. I'm working on sending it back now - serial number X334680597L
Post - 301 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-11.html#post58086802









I'd almost decided to just live with some of these defects, but then thought Epson's motto is to exceed expectations, and they say that these refurbs should be just like a new model - so I'm going to hold them to it. I'll keep switching these things out till the cows come home. They are paying for shipping, while I'm surely wasting my time, but at this point, I'm going to be stubborn. I'm also going to increasingly propagate my dissatisfaction to the various forums I frequent, and facebook, etc, if they don't get this turned around. Customer service is typically very nice, but just shuffling around B-Stock projectors isn't going to fly without consequence. I wrote their customer service a long e-mail and linked to these pictures/posts last night. Maybe that'll get this turned around.


----------



## Archaea

monkaquinas said:


> I believe this is common to all projectors of the LCD display type. Only DLP has sealed light paths; if I'm not mistaken.


That may be true, but Epsons seem especially prone to dust spots based on the Kansas City enthusiasts circles discussion. I've had two Epson's LCD projectors and four Panasonic LCD projectors over the last 15 years. I've had one quality control RMA issue with Panasonic, and exceptionally minor dust blob concerns. My last one I owned 5 years, had a single very faint one that was barefly visible, and that Panasonic ownership overlapped time with a couple rooms worth of finish construction going on in my basement. My Epson 8350 I had to replace 5 times IIRC to get a good one in the 2012-2013 timeframe. Dust spots and colors issues like what I'm currently seeing with the 5040UB were the issue. Several of my friends had those Epson 8350's because they were a great looking product for the price -- but they ALL had issues. (stitch1, carp, scrappydue, dlbeck, and jdontee - off the top of my head)

I was hopeful they'd have resolved those issues several generations later, but my 5040UB experience thus far has me worried. My third 5040UB (from the post above) didn't start with that single dust blob, but it was there within 10 hours, for no known reason - - and I don't have a particularly dusty house. No inside animals, my wife vacuums nearly every day, the kids don't play down here in my theater room. Like I said my five year old Panasonic AE8000U LCD projector I replaced had a VERY MINOR dust blob that was barely visible after five years of use. The first Epson with the pink top right lcd issue, had two minor dustblobs out of the box that I had decided I could live with if the pink discoloration wasn't present.


----------



## deathstroke

Archaea said:


> Yes,
> 
> I'm playing refurb roulette with Epson 5040UB's right now. Epson assures the customer the refurbs have to pass quality control before they are sent out and are as good as new, but that hasn't been my experience. So either I'm unlucky (possible and typical even ) or they really aren't quality checking these refurbs.
> 
> Original refurb purchased direct from Espon.com in April had pink hues on the top right corner out of the box - serial number X334691747L
> Post 142 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...d-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-5.html#post57917498
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1st refurb RMA replacement had six dust blobs fresh out of the box on power up. I didn't even hook it up, I just boxed it back up and sent it back to Epson - serial number - X334710215L
> Post 154 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...d-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-6.html#post57956298
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd refurb RMA replacement had one dust blob that showed up within 10 hours of use. I sent it back - serial number X334770088L
> Post 259 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...d-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-9.html#post58059276
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd refurb RMA replacement had pink hue on the right side of the screen immediatey out of box. I'm working on sending it back now - serial number X334680597L
> Post - 301 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-11.html#post58086802
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd almost decided to just live with some of these defects, but then thought Epson's motto is to exceed expectations, and they say that these refurbs should be just like a new model - so I'm going to hold them to it. I'll keep switching these things out till the cows come home. They are paying for shipping, while I'm surely wasting my time, but at this point, I'm going to be stubborn. I'm also going to increasingly propagate my dissatisfaction to the various forums I frequent, and facebook, etc, if they don't get this turned around. Customer service is typically very nice, but just shuffling around B-Stock projectors isn't going to fly without consequence. I wrote their customer service a long e-mail and linked to these pictures/posts last night. Maybe that'll get this turned around.


Well you've had even worse luck than me. Just one huge dust blob on my first 5040 refurb. But, how do they have scratched lenses? I guess that isn't on the checklist before certifying, or at least it doesn't count if you can't see it on screen?
The fact that they shipped the refurbs to me with the lens cover partly open and no foam insert in the lens area, and not even taped closed like a retail one speaks volumes (I can't remember exactly how my original retail one was sealed at the lens cover). This further cements my decision to stick with my current unit as long as I can, and just ignore the lamp strike problem for now. I was doing that with my original until it just died and wouldn't turn on. Since at least 2007, when I got my first Epson, they have obviously cared more about sending out replacements than fixing their QC and manufacturing to avoid defects. From what I've read, Sony and JVC aren't as good about sending out replacements, but I wonder if their defect rate is better anyway.


----------



## Archaea

@deathstroke,

All four of mine have had the lens cover partially open upon opening the box. They are in a plastic bag, but the electric sliding lens cover's been roughed open in shipping.
Makes me wonder if they are being abused in transit - wouldn't be surprising. But the dust isn't on the lens on the outside. It's on the inside. I've carefully cleaned all my lenses with microfiber cloth and lens cleaner.

Bummer on the scratched lens -- that's not acceptable. (I would think it would have to affect detail -- perhaps not at the precise distance you had your screen from the projector I suppose). I'm with you on some basic troubleshooting. Three out of four of my refurbs had issues that could be seen immediately without any source even hooked up. So either they aren't checking them, or they are getting damaged in shipping I guess.


----------



## deathstroke

Archaea said:


> @deathstroke,
> 
> All four of mine have had the lens cover partially open upon opening the box. They are in a plastic bag, but the electric sliding lens cover's been roughed open in shipping.
> Makes me wonder if they are being abused in transit - wouldn't be surprising. But the dust isn't on the lens on the outside. It's on the inside. I've carefully cleaned all my lenses with microfiber cloth and lens cleaner.
> 
> Bummer on the scratched lens -- that's not acceptable. (I would think it would have to affect detail -- perhaps not at the precise distance you had your screen from the projector I suppose). I'm with you on some basic troubleshooting. Three out of four of my refurbs had issues that could be seen immediately without any source even hooked up. So either they aren't checking them, or they are getting damaged in shipping I guess.


I looked at where the scratch was and the light didn't seem to be shining through it when projecting on my screen. Perhaps if I had to shift the lens to that side, it would actually have the image going through it. If I do wind up getting another replacement, I have two questions:

can you please tape the lens cover shut?
or, could you just send me a retail unit?

Have you ever requested a retail unit as replacement? At this point I'd say you're entitled to one!


----------



## Liquid$team

Anyone know how big a picture I can get from the 6040 with 10 feet of throw? Thx


----------



## djmattyb

Liquid$team said:


> Anyone know how big a picture I can get from the 6040 with 10 feet of throw? Thx


102 diagonal if doing a 16:9 at 10 feet
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro_Cinema_6040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## gene4ht

Liquid$team said:


> Anyone know how big a picture I can get from the 6040 with 10 feet of throw? Thx


Here's Epson's calculator....

https://files.support.epson.com/pdc/en/html5/Index.html


----------



## Stereojeff

paindonthurt said:


> I see people complaining about dust issues etc with the 5040. Is this common with the 6040 too?



The 5040 and the 6040 are the same machine. The differences are cover color, warranty duration and included accessories.


Jeff


----------



## dimi123

paindonthurt said:


> I see people complaining about dust issues etc with the 5040. Is this common with the 6040 too?





monkaquinas said:


> I believe this is common to all projectors of the LCD display type. Only DLP has sealed light paths; if I'm not mistaken.





Archaea said:


> That may be true, but Epsons seem especially prone to dust spots based on the Kansas City enthusiasts circles discussion.
> I was hopeful they'd have resolved those issues several generations later, but my 5040UB experience thus far has me worried. My third 5040UB (from the post above) didn't start with that single dust blob, but it was there within 10 hours, for no known reason - - and I don't have a particularly dusty house.


You guys in the US are spoiled. Exchanging the projector because of a dust blob. In Europe we do not get refurbs. We send the PJ in for repair and get back the same PJ a month later. I'm doing it twice a year because of accumulated dust blobs on my 9300/6040. That's why I have a second 9300 as a backup. With Epson you have to live with the dust blobs as there is no telling if or when you'll get them.



deathstroke said:


> Well, my second replacement 5040UB is now having the same issue as my first one...lamp doesn't strike and fan kicks into high gear for a minute or two until the lamp finally wakes up.
> On my current unit, the lamp issue happened twice this week. I've had this unit since late November of last year. I called support and they had me re-seat the lamp. This time the fan went into high gear almost immediately and then maybe 10 seconds later started up normally. If it recurs over the weekend I will call back Tuesday.


This has been discussed many times in this thread and the consensus is that it is not a bug but a feature having to do with the cooling of the lamp. The mystery is why it occurs seemingly random and at startup.


----------



## Liquid$team

nevermind


----------



## Archaea

deathstroke said:


> Have you ever requested a retail unit as replacement? At this point I'd say you're entitled to one!



I hinted at it last time, and this time I asked about it. They transferred my call to a “specialist”, Joe, who said there was no way for them to do that. He said since I had bought the first one refurb on a discontinued model that any replacement would have to be a refurb. I politely, but candidly asked him how I got four bad ones if everyone of them was quality control checked before it was shipped out the door? He said they are “quality control checked but then sit on a shelf for who knows how long before they are sent out” and they aren’t rechecked immediately before they are sent. I challenged him by saying they sure aren’t sitting very long as far as I could tell because they were constantly out of stock and I couldn’t get an RMA completed immediately because they told me they had no inventory. Joe didn’t have a rebuttal. He just said sometimes he gets calls that something wasn’t right and they make it right. He said he would instruct his guys to check the next one they send me very closely before they send. He said they’d check it for everything, no dust blobs, no discoloration, and good panel uniformity. I told him I’d hold him to it, or be seeking an exchange. He hinted that if the next one doesn’t work out I might want to consider a refund. (Which is a questionable response because it _may_ mean that these refurbs won’t get any better than second tier units???). Which, if I understood what I thought to be his comment, is in conflict with every Epson CSR I’ve spoken with who has said the refurbs should all be quality control checked and as good as new. If that was the case I wouldn’t have sent 4 back...

Anyway, Joe seemed to be a native English speaking CSR, vs everyone else I spoke to being Indian. They’ve all been polite, which is why I’ve continued to be cordial when I call. But I’m also trying to make sure they understand this is a problem and NOT a good customer experience when bad products are received. Good customer service and bad products are no better than bad customer service and good products. I did mention to Joe, who reviewed my case, and looked at the links here to each of the four projector issues on avsforum, that there really are only two possibilities as I see it. Either these things are getting damaged in shipping, which i see no evidence of on my four boxes which have all arrived without signs of obvious abuse, or his Epson techs seem to not be clearing these things for reissuing as they should be. He said most of the time they do, in his experience, but admitted he hears about some get through that shouldn’t - mine being examples of such.

He said it would add a couple days for his techs to check one of these units out thoroughly, per his instruction, and with the Holliday on Monday I could expect my 5th refurb unit by next Friday.


----------



## gene4ht

deathstroke said:


> Well, my second replacement 5040UB is now having the same issue as my first one...*lamp doesn't strike and fan kicks into high gear for a minute or two until the lamp finally wakes up. *





dimi123 said:


> This has been discussed many times in this thread and the consensus is that it is not a bug but a feature having to do with the cooling of the lamp. The mystery is why it occurs seemingly random and at startup.


Mystery indeed! As I've posted several times over the past two years, my inquiries with Epson's product support at various levels did not yield a plausible answer...not even an implausible one. I wouldn't even consider this to be a "feature" or even normal operation as the behavior is inconsistent/unpredictable. Logic suggests that cooling of the lamp occurs at shut down (like all my previous brand PJ's I've owned) not at start up. This PJ exhibits just the opposite...why cool a cool lamp? Only speculation on my part but as this has been reported to also occur in previous Epson models, it's possible that the original design "flaw in logic" was never corrected and carried forward. In any case, other than this odd fan behavior, my 5040 has been performing flawlessly for 2.5 years now. My primary pet peeve with Epson is and has been its lack of transparency from their corporate leadership.


----------



## dimi123

gene4ht said:


> Mystery indeed! As I've posted several times over the past two years, my inquiries with Epson's product support at various levels did not yield a plausible answer...not even an implausible one. I wouldn't even consider this to be a "feature" or even normal operation as the behavior is inconsistent/unpredictable. Logic suggests that cooling of the lamp occurs at shut down (like all my previous brand PJ's I've owned) not at start up. This PJ exhibits just the opposite...why cool a cool lamp? Only speculation on my part but as this has been reported to also occur in previous Epson models, it's possible that the original design "flaw in logic" was never corrected and carried forward. In any case, other than this odd fan behavior, my 5040 has been performing flawlessly for 2.5 years now. My primary pet peeve with Epson is and has been its lack of transparency from their corporate leadership.


I had the 9200 for 3 years before the 9300 and it behaved exactly the same, even more frequently. I don't consider it a problem, as I've never had any power supply issues with any of the models. The biggest drawback for me is the unsealed light path and the accumulation of dust particles. Other than that, my 9300 has also performed flawlessly during the last 2.5 years. I'm close to 11,000 hours on mine.


----------



## gene4ht

dimi123 said:


> I had the 9200 for 3 years before the 9300 and it behaved exactly the same, even more frequently. I don't consider it a problem, as I've never had any power supply issues with any of the models. The biggest drawback for me is the unsealed light path and the accumulation of dust particles. Other than that, my 9300 has also performed flawlessly during the last 2.5 years. I'm close to 11,000 hours on mine.


Agreed...then it continues to remain a mystery!


----------



## inspector

Those pink issues have been there since I bought my Epson 9500 back in 2010. The problem started, by some on here, that being upside down, gravity reared its ugly head. But it didn't happen to those that used it on a flat surface.


The problem was that the light/color plates inside were coming loose being upside down (I think that was the problem). Some took apart the Epson, and snapped them back in place...no more pink/green. I'm not mechanical so I never tried it. Just sold it and got the 6040. If you look at the 8500/9500 thread, there's loads of posts on the problem...maybe that's what's happening here.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...d-msrp/1176135-epson-8500ub-200-000-1-cr.html


----------



## deathstroke

Archaea said:


> I hinted at it last time, and this time I asked about it. They transferred my call to a “specialist”, Joe, who said there was no way for them to do that. He said since I had bought the first one refurb on a discontinued model that any replacement would have to be a refurb. I politely, but candidly asked him how I got four bad ones if everyone of them was quality control checked before it was shipped out the door? He said they are “quality control checked but then sit on a shelf for who knows how long before they are sent out” and they aren’t rechecked immediately before they are sent. I challenged him by saying they sure aren’t sitting very long as far as I could tell because they were constantly out of stock and I couldn’t get an RMA completed immediately because they told me they had no inventory. Joe didn’t have a rebuttal. He just said sometimes he gets calls that something wasn’t right and they make it right. He said he would instruct his guys to check the next one they send me very closely before they send. He said they’d check it for everything, no dust blobs, no discoloration, and good panel uniformity. I told him I’d hold him to it, or be seeking an exchange. He hinted that if the next one doesn’t work out I might want to consider a refund. (Which is a questionable response because it _may_ mean that these refurbs won’t get any better than second tier units???). Which, if I understood what I thought to be his comment, is in conflict with every Epson CSR I’ve spoken with who has said the refurbs should all be quality control checked and as good as new. If that was the case I wouldn’t have sent 4 back...
> 
> Anyway, Joe seemed to be a native English speaking CSR, vs everyone else I spoke to being Indian. They’ve all been polite, which is why I’ve continued to be cordial when I call. But I’m also trying to make sure they understand this is a problem and NOT a good customer experience when bad products are received. Good customer service and bad products are no better than bad customer service and good products. I did mention to Joe, who reviewed my case, and looked at the links here to each of the four projector issues on avsforum, that there really are only two possibilities as I see it. Either these things are getting damaged in shipping, which i see no evidence of on my four boxes which have all arrived without signs of obvious abuse, or his Epson techs seem to not be clearing these things for reissuing as they should be. He said most of the time they do, in his experience, but admitted he hears about some get through that shouldn’t - mine being examples of such.
> 
> He said it would add a couple days for his techs to check one of these units out thoroughly, per his instruction, and with the Holliday on Monday I could expect my 5th refurb unit by next Friday.


Well, I purchased my unit new, so maybe I'd have better luck requesting a retail unit. As to why the refurbs keep coming back with issues...it's anyone's guess. I don't see how scratches could appear on the lens once it is packaged up, but dust could definitely get in there. Did you ask about at least taping the lens mechanism closed before shipping out? I've used my projector once every day for the holiday weekend, and it had the lamp strike issue once. I'm going to stick with this one unless it either starts having more issues, or dies completely.
Does anyone at avsforum have a good connection at Epson, so we could get a straight answer about this lamp issue?


----------



## gene4ht

gene4ht said:


> Along with the power supply failures..."If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I'm being facetious of course!
> 
> Many of my previous posts in this thread have echoed your same sentiments. *Epson has never formally acknowledged any of the consumer issues related to this particular product.* It appears that the corporate position for product remedy is play "exchange roulette" until the customer stops complaining. I initally thought this was a cultural thing rather than corporate. However, Onkyo had HDMI failure issues years ago, acknowledged the problem, put a remedy procedure in place, and even extended warranties. In today's world marketplace, full transparency is becoming the norm.'' i.e. automotive industry. Epson ain't there yet!
> 
> Specifically to your current issue, my 5040 has "periodically" acted similarly at start up...whirling jet engine as I call it. I've contacted Epson support at various levels and received no plausible answer for this behavior. I recall some posters saying this also occurred with earlier Epson models as well. In any event, this behavior passes and the PJ has performed normally afterward for me.





gene4ht said:


> Mystery indeed! *As I've posted several times over the past two years, my inquiries with Epson's product support at various levels did not yield a plausible answer...not even an implausible one.* I wouldn't even consider this to be a "feature" or even normal operation as the behavior is inconsistent/unpredictable. Logic suggests that cooling of the lamp occurs at shut down (like all my previous brand PJ's I've owned) not at start up. This PJ exhibits just the opposite...why cool a cool lamp? Only speculation on my part but as this has been reported to also occur in previous Epson models, it's possible that the original design "flaw in logic" was never corrected and carried forward. In any case, other than this odd fan behavior, my 5040 has been performing flawlessly for 2.5 years now. My primary pet peeve with Epson is and has been its lack of transparency from their corporate leadership.





deathstroke said:


> Well, I purchased my unit new, so maybe I'd have better luck requesting a retail unit. As to why the refurbs keep coming back with issues...it's anyone's guess. I don't see how scratches could appear on the lens once it is packaged up, but dust could definitely get in there. Did you ask about at least taping the lens mechanism closed before shipping out? I've used my projector once every day for the holiday weekend, and it had the lamp strike issue once. I'm going to stick with this one unless it either starts having more issues, or dies completely.
> *Does anyone at avsforum have a good connection at Epson, so we could get a straight answer about this lamp issue?*


My efforts to reach a resource at Epson for an explanation of this peculiar lamp/fan behavior to date have been unsuccessful. Each level of support I've contacted up to and including "advanced technical support" was unable to explain the anomaly. Either these resources truly don't know or it's Epson's corporate policy/culture to not discuss these matters with consumers. In any case, good luck in your pursuit for answers.


----------



## jbail804

Hello,
Can anyone tell me the screw size needed to attach a ceiling mount to the projector. I looked through the online owners manual but could not find the spec. Getting the projector on Thursday and would like to have them before the projector arrives. Thanks.


----------



## roland6465

monkaquinas said:


> I believe this is common to all projectors of the LCD display type. Only DLP has sealed light paths; if I'm not mistaken.



Sony 4K LCoS projectors have sealed light paths. They also only blow the fan on high upon cutoff, like logic would assume.


----------



## Mr.G

jbail804 said:


> Hello,
> Can anyone tell me the screw size needed to attach a ceiling mount to the projector. I looked through the online owners manual but could not find the spec. Getting the projector on Thursday and would like to have them before the projector arrives. Thanks.


M4 x 10mm is what I used. The Epsons generally use the M4 bolt size. Most ceiling mounts usually come with an assortment of bolt sizes.


----------



## jbail804

Mr.G said:


> M4 x 10mm is what I used. The Epsons generally use the M4 bolt size. Most ceiling mounts usually come with an assortment of bolt sizes.


Thanks. I am reusing a mount and did not keep any of the spare hardware. I just wanted to make sure I had the right ones. Thanks again.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


----------



## Liquid$team

Can the 5040 play content at 60fps?


----------



## Snoogleheimer

Archaea said:


> Yes,
> 
> I'm playing refurb roulette with Epson 5040UB's right now. Epson assures the customer the refurbs have to pass quality control before they are sent out and are as good as new, but that hasn't been my experience. So either I'm unlucky (possible and typical even ) or they really aren't quality checking these refurbs.
> 
> Original refurb purchased direct from Espon.com in April had pink hues on the top right corner out of the box - serial number X334691747L
> Post 142 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...d-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-5.html#post57917498
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1st refurb RMA replacement had six dust blobs fresh out of the box on power up. I didn't even hook it up, I just boxed it back up and sent it back to Epson - serial number - X334710215L
> Post 154 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...d-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-6.html#post57956298
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd refurb RMA replacement had one dust blob that showed up within 10 hours of use. I sent it back - serial number X334770088L
> Post 259 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...d-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-9.html#post58059276
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd refurb RMA replacement had pink hue on the right side of the screen immediatey out of box. I'm working on sending it back now - serial number X334680597L
> Post - 301 - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-11.html#post58086802
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd almost decided to just live with some of these defects, but then thought Epson's motto is to exceed expectations, and they say that these refurbs should be just like a new model - so I'm going to hold them to it. I'll keep switching these things out till the cows come home. They are paying for shipping, while I'm surely wasting my time, but at this point, I'm going to be stubborn. I'm also going to increasingly propagate my dissatisfaction to the various forums I frequent, and facebook, etc, if they don't get this turned around. Customer service is typically very nice, but just shuffling around B-Stock projectors isn't going to fly without consequence. I wrote their customer service a long e-mail and linked to these pictures/posts last night. Maybe that'll get this turned around.


YIKES! Ok, now I know what 'Dust Blobs' look like. No probs with my 5040ub so far. Been what? 3 years now?


----------



## seplant

Has anyone had an issue with the Auto Iris not working when the projector is set to Natural color mode?


----------



## Darrell Money

Liquid$team said:


> Can the 5040 play content at 60fps?


For 1080p, it will no problem. At 4K it is limited to 4:2:0 8-bit color @ 60fps. So the answer is maybe, depending on the output from your source. The very 1st entry on this thread gives a more in depth explanation.


----------



## evanft

Here's a rundown of what's been going on with my 5040 that I purchased in late April as an open-box from Best Buy.

Shortly after getting the projector, I had the following issues in this order:

1. Switching between my HDR and SDR settings would take a long time, after which I would see an error message about the cinema filter and the image would be colored incorrectly. Resetting fixed the issue.

2. Switching between my settings would cause the projector to make a lot of iris/motor noise, then it would shut the lens cover, spin the fans really loudly, and blink its lights. Resetting fixed the issue. Looking up the light pattern on Epson's support site indicated this to be a sympton of an auto-iris issue

3. Eventually the unit experience issue 2 and refused to come back on when reset. It would open the lens and attempt to boot, but then it would go right back to spinning the fans and blinking the lights.

I sent the unit into Epson after issue 3. They required this instead of a cross-ship refurb because it was a demo unit. I was fine with this and Epson was able to turn the repair around in less than a week from the day I shipped it. When I received the projector back it came with a piece of paper from the repair center that listed the repair as a main board replacement. This seemed odd to me, as I would assume an auto-iris problem would necessitate some kind of motor replacement.

After a week with the supposedly repaired 5040, it started having issue 2 again. Has anyone else experience this problem?


----------



## prme19

Help! I’ve had my 5040 for almost 2 years now. 1800+ lamp hrs. No issues before. But lately I’ve been getting this “HDMI no signal” error (or “performing wireless HD connection”) while watching, screen is black, no matter the source (Apple TV streaming, game, or bluray player). Sometimes, picture will just come back on after a few seconds, but sometimes I haves to turn the PJ, Apple TV, bluray player, or the receiver on/off multiple times before the picture comes back on. Any ideas? Is this the PJ or maybe the HDMI?


----------



## videonut

prme19 said:


> Help! I’ve had my 5040 for almost 2 years now. 1800+ lamp hrs. No issues before. But lately I’ve been getting this “HDMI no signal” error (or “performing wireless HD connection”) while watching, screen is black, no matter the source (Apple TV streaming, game, or bluray player). Sometimes, picture will just come back on after a few seconds, but sometimes I haves to turn the PJ, Apple TV, bluray player, or the receiver on/off multiple times before the picture comes back on. Any ideas? Is this the PJ or maybe the HDMI?


I have a similar experience if the DVD player turns on before the audio receiver. I had to re-program my macro setup to overcome this phenomenon.


----------



## socalsharky

prme19 said:


> Help! I’ve had my 5040 for almost 2 years now. 1800+ lamp hrs. No issues before. But lately I’ve been getting this “HDMI no signal” error (or “performing wireless HD connection”) while watching, screen is black, no matter the source (Apple TV streaming, game, or bluray player). Sometimes, picture will just come back on after a few seconds, but sometimes I haves to turn the PJ, Apple TV, bluray player, or the receiver on/off multiple times before the picture comes back on. Any ideas? Is this the PJ or maybe the HDMI?



Mine did something similar before the HDMI 1 port failed entirely, and I had to get a refurb. Do you get the same behavior on HDMI 2?


----------



## prme19

videonut said:


> I have a similar experience if the DVD player turns on before the audio receiver. I had to re-program my macro setup to overcome this phenomenon.





socalsharky said:


> Mine did something similar before the HDMI 1 port failed entirely, and I had to get a refurb. Do you get the same behavior on HDMI 2?


Thanks for the reply. Im gonna check these out. I don’t use Logitech remotes (although I have a harmony one). So, i turn these devices on individually. I’ll do a test tonight. I will also try the HDMI 2 port to see if the problem still occurs.


----------



## 314carpenter

I just felt like having a chat, so I called the Advanced Epson Support Team located in Long Beach. No reason, just a chat. I have not had any problems with my own projector. I just wanted to know what kind of feedback I would get if I called. My experience talking with the support member today was actually very enlightening. Makes me appreciate what I am getting when I buy from Epson. Great customer service. The discussion I had today mostly revolved around the known and addressed power supply failures, and not about the other various problems that fewer people have mentioned previously. 

I was told not to worry about my 2 years old projector. I was told if anything would happen, it would most likely be in the the first year, as most failed units failed early in ownership. I was informed that, case by case, my projector would be covered under any circumstance requiring a repair for at least one additional year beyond the 2 year that came with it. Now mind you that this is not in writing, but it does leave me with a good feeling to have now. My projector has been, and is currently up for sale, as I thought it would be best to move forward, but I am second guessing my decision to sell after today's chat. I am actually very happy with my Epson 5040UB. The representative actually told me to just keep my 5040UB unless I need 4k 60Hz, more lumins, and a better HDR experience. I pretty much do not game, 90% movies, 95% blu-rays.

So a summary of issues addressed by the advanced team today were...

-up to 3 years of warranty service for those who own a unit that qualifies for a warranty.
-shipping is covered

-confirmed the known failure of power supply units were random, and not a batch, so any manufactured before the issue had been corrected is subject for failure.
-failures most likely occur early in the ownership period, so if you have an older unit that is functioning without issue, you most likely have a good unit that will provide many more years of enjoyment without any repairs necessary.
-every users experience differs, and that is why support is a case by case situation.

-there are actually 3 separate inventories of the 5040UB at Epson
1)new stock
2)replacement units in the warranty department
3)refurbished units on the Epson .com store (1 or 2 units per day)
-no idea how Epson chooses which units are refurbs for sale, and which are for replacement stock

-The support team has a member, who I spoke with today, that actually is responsible for feedback on specific retailers customer reviews pages. The support team really does care, and may actually go beyond their duty to make a customer satisfied.

-If you do call support, this expression will apply to you directly, "You catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar".


----------



## gene4ht

314carpenter said:


> I just felt like having a chat, so *I called the Advanced Epson Support Team located in Long Beach.* No reason, just a chat. I have not had any problems with my own projector. I just wanted to know what kind of feedback I would get if I called. My experience talking with the support member today was actually very enlightening. Makes me appreciate what I am getting when I buy from Epson. Great customer service. The discussion I had today mostly revolved around the known and addressed power supply failures, and not about the other various problems that fewer people have mentioned previously.
> 
> I was told not to worry about my 2 years old projector. I was told if anything would happen, it would most likely be in the the first year, as most failed units failed early in ownership. *I was informed that, case by case, my projector would be covered under any circumstance requiring a repair for at least one additional year beyond the 2 year that came with it.* Now mind you that this is not in writing, but it does leave me with a good feeling to have now. My projector has been, and is currently up for sale, as I thought it would be best to move forward, but I am second guessing my decision to sell after today's chat. I am actually very happy with my Epson 5040UB. The representative actually told me to just keep my 5040UB unless I need 4k 60Hz, more lumins, and a better HDR experience. I pretty much do not game, 90% movies, 95% blu-rays.
> 
> So a summary of issues addressed by the advanced team today were...
> 
> -up to 3 years of warranty service for those who own a unit that qualifies for a warranty.
> -shipping is covered
> 
> -confirmed the known failure of power supply units were random, and not a batch, so any manufactured before the issue had been corrected is subject for failure.
> -failures most likely occur early in the ownership period, so if you have an older unit that is functioning without issue, you most likely have a good unit that will provide many more years of enjoyment without any repairs necessary.
> -every users experience differs, and that is why support is a case by case situation.
> 
> -there are actually 3 separate inventories of the 5040UB at Epson
> 1)new stock
> 2)replacement units in the warranty department
> 3)refurbished units on the Epson .com store (1 or 2 units per day)
> -no idea how Epson chooses which units are refurbs for sale, and which are for replacement stock
> 
> -The support team has a member, who I spoke with today, that actually is responsible for feedback on specific retailers customer reviews pages. *The support team really does care, and may actually go beyond their duty to make a customer satisfied.*
> 
> -If you do call support, this expression will apply to you directly, *"You catch more flies with honey than you do with vinegar"*.


Your effort is appreciated...thanks!

You've actually had the same experience I did about a year ago...same "honey approach"...same response from a caring and responsive "advanced" support member. I too am a two year+ owner of a 5040 w/o issue. My criticism of Epson is, however, not their customer support policy or caring and responsible support teams. My concern is this information is a "pull" and not a "push." The leadership in today's leading, responsible, and transparent organizations do publicly acknowledge product issues and publish written remedies...i.e. Onkyo, automotives, etc. Although commendable, it’s not the purview or responsibility of organizational subordinates to do so.


----------



## seplant

socalsharky said:


> Mine did something similar before the HDMI 1 port failed entirely, and I had to get a refurb. Do you get the same behavior on HDMI 2?


Same thing happened to my 6040. I got a refurb also. That was a year ago. So far no issues with that one.


----------



## ike12

*Epson 5040UB New Install Questions*

Thanks all in advance, So I replaced my BenQ 1080P projector last night with E5040UB 4K. 



I had to change a 4K pass through setting using a "secret advanced menu" on my Yamaha receiver, which actually was painless and worked instantly. For what its worth I am NOT using keystone, I only used lens shift to fit my screen as best as I could. Now here are my questions


The Projector seems to have a black screen showing no input, although I can hear the audio. This is mostly from only 20min of testing with my Xbox One X. It will eventually pop up the video and then work for a moment, and then go back to just audio. and repeat. Not sure why but I feel maybe I need a better HDMI cable either from Xbox to Receiver or from Receiver to Epson?


I notice now there is a blurry or fuzzy interference of some type, its like red and green dot SNOW effect? Perhaps the same problem as above and maybe why its acting so strange with video in and out? 



Sorry if that is not helpful. Thanks again for any guidance.


----------



## Sekosche

I would definitely upgrade your HDMI cables to the latest 2.0 spec that supports 18 Gbps and see if that works (HDMI 2.1 is likely overkill for most); nothing fancy required, anything in the $30-50 range should work. Get an active cable for longer runs over 50’ if needed to boost the signal.

I had this problem just going from an Epson 2150 to the 3700, and neither of those are 4K. I had an older inexpensive 50’ HDMI run from my receiver to the PJ that worked for one but not the other; over short runs most HDMI cables made in the last few years will work fine regardless of bandwidth requirements, but if you have cut outs in the video this should hopefully do the trick.


----------



## jl9184

*5040ub new install issue*

Hi,

I just bought and had someone ceiling mount the Epson 5040ub. It is projecting on a 100" diagonal 16:9 screen which is 12.5" from the ceiling, the lens is 12.5ft away and it's 16" from the ceiling. The install guy had to tile the projector slightly, and then applied -16 keystone, but now while the screen is filled left to right, there's a gap on the top and bottom of the screen with no video of 1-2".

Does anyone know how to solve this problem? Install guy didn't know.

Thanks everybody!
Jonathan


----------



## evilmonstertruk

jl9184 said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought and had someone ceiling mount the Epson 5040ub. It is projecting on a 100" diagonal 16:9 screen which is 12.5" from the ceiling, the lens is 12.5ft away and it's 16" from the ceiling. The install guy had to tile the projector slightly, and then applied -16 keystone, but now while the screen is filled left to right, there's a gap on the top and bottom of the screen with no video of 1-2".
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how to solve this problem? Install guy didn't know.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everybody!
> 
> Jonathan


You definitely don't want keystone correction if can avoid it. What kind of mount is it

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk


----------



## jl9184

evilmonstertruk said:


> You definitely don't want keystone correction if can avoid it. What kind of mount is it
> 
> Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk


Chief RPMAU mount. To not use keystone correction, would have to put the projector really low, somebody tall could then bump it with their head.
Thanks for your help!
Jonathan


----------



## Archaea

You should not have to keystone.

You need to use lens shift. Can you take a picture of your room projector and mounting setup. 

Your projector also should not be tilted. It should be level so the lens is parallel to the screen.

Frankly it sounds like your installer didn’t know what he was doing. 

Have him come back and level the projector 

The use the menu system and the remote to apply lens shift under the focus menu to lower the projector image.


----------



## Deejay Freddy

prme19 said:


> Help! I’ve had my 5040 for almost 2 years now. 1800+ lamp hrs. No issues before. But lately I’ve been getting this “HDMI no signal” error (or “performing wireless HD connection”) while watching, screen is black, no matter the source (Apple TV streaming, game, or bluray player). Sometimes, picture will just come back on after a few seconds, but sometimes I haves to turn the PJ, Apple TV, bluray player, or the receiver on/off multiple times before the picture comes back on. Any ideas? Is this the PJ or maybe the HDMI?


Mine does this occasionaly but I also run an HD Fury. I just switch the source to something and back and it works, must just be a handshake issue.


----------



## jl9184

Archaea said:


> You should not have to keystone.
> 
> You need to use lens shift. Can you take a picture of your room projector and mounting setup.
> 
> Your projector also should not be tilted. It should be level so the lens is parallel to the screen.
> 
> Frankly it sounds like your installer didn’t know what he was doing.
> 
> Have him come back and level the projector
> 
> The use the menu system and the remote to apply lens shift under the focus menu to lower the projector image.


Thanks for the reply! I did what you suggested and it worked!


----------



## Archaea

How do you get 10 bit in Windows 10? (1080ti nvidia card)

I think I've read this projector is 10bit, but I only see 8 or 12 as my options.

It automatically recognizes my Denon x7200wa processor, but apparently doesn't see the Epson 5040UB behind it.

Also, do you guys chose RGB or the YCbCr444?


----------



## tran1981

roland6465 said:


> Par for the course. You just have to keep sending them back. I had 4 refurb replacements, and a fifth new, all of which had something wrong with them. Yes, Epson is fast on turnaround for defective units, but they're replacing crap with crap.



Thanks. I just saw epson.com has 5040ub in stock and just did a replacement.


----------



## tran1981

Archaea said:


> Why do they do this??? They aren’t even fast about replacing them anymore. Gone is overnight shipping. Worse yet is they have none in stock to replace. You have to catch a refurb in stock in order to replace it. Otherwise they just offer you a refund. That means I’m trying to watch the for sale page as often, and in competition with anyone else trying to buy one. P.S. lthey only last minutes in stock, and they seem to come into stock just a couple times a week. I’ve got multiple alerting systems setup for in stock notification so I can try to catch the time to call in for RMA. They inexplicably will NOT hold a unit for you for RMA anymore. My third one is going back now. This is NOT good customer service, nor is it a pleasant buying experience. This will be my last Epson, unless they significantly change in the future.
> 
> 1st refurb Epson - purchased early April, pink discoloration in top right corner. It also has two minor dust blobs, but I was figuring I could live with them. They were relatively faint.
> 
> 
> 2nd refurb Epson RMA replacement - six dust blobs on black image straight out of box - terrible. Boxed it back up immediately, no way I’m keeping that.
> 
> 
> 3rd refurb Epson RMA replacement - thought was good. 10 hours in a single bright dust blob appears in top right. Where did that come from? It’s going back. Dust blobs are luckily covered under warranty, but now I’ve got concerns that these 5040UBs are just a problem waiting to happen with future dust blobs popping up and ruining the experience when the projector falls out of warranty in 2 years. I have a blacked out theater room. Bright dust blobs are unacceptable to me as a projector owner.



Did you get a good unit? They just have more instock so I did a replacement.


----------



## Archaea

tran1981 said:


> Did you get a good unit? They just have more instock so I did a replacement.




Thanks for the heads up, but my 5th unit I received recently is solid. I hope you have good fortune too on your next exchange. I updated and hopefully concluded my refurb roulette saga in the deal thread here in post 355:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a-12.html#post58152566


----------



## PDXscreen

*Joining the Party Late!*

I jumped on the Epson refurbished deal on the 5040 this morning. Before this came up, I was considering a 5050 or even the JVC X790R. I had a hard time justifying the additional $2700 for the JVC especially coming from a circa 2007-2008 Sony HD Projector. Thanks for the heads up on the refurb roulette. I will have to keep a detailed eye out!


----------



## sleepingatsea

BradP said:


> Anyone have a link or advice on tips for programming a Harmony IR blaster (remote mini blaster) to properly power off an Epson 5040UB or really any epson projector? The blaster I have in the room does a great job powering the unit ON, however the off command as part of the off sequence does not seem to reach the projector. Using the off command from my phone in the Harmony app turns the projector off instantly, so I know the blaster is working and the power off command is correct, it just doesn't seem to fire properly as part of the power off sequence (and Harmony seems to have removed the ability to send additional power off commands as part of an off sequence which is really dumb, unless I am missing it).
> 
> Anyway, any tips anyone might have for getting the right delays or additional commands into the power off sequence for the epson from the Harmony would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to be able to stop using 2 remotes to power off my room!


So I actually just came here to post the EXACT same thing. Man, so frustrating! So I've been trying as much as I can to get it power it off but yeah, nothing seems to work. I re-taught the 'off' command by pointing the Epson remote at the hub that didn't work either.

Would love to know if anyone has figured this out! It's awesome having the 'turn on projector' command to turn it on, set my avr to the input and dim my lights off. Just wish I could turn it off without having to grab another remote!


----------



## Morphx2

I dunno, my harmony turned it off fine. Not a combo of commands though, just the turn off command

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Stereojeff

Morphx2 said:


> I dunno, my harmony turned it off fine. Not a combo of commands though, just the turn off command



Same here. No on or off problems with Harmony remote and my Epson 6040. The standard Epson codes have worked fine from the first set-up.



Jeff


----------



## aeneas01

Morphx2 said:


> I do bright cinema Harper setting for everything
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


do you have a link to those settings? thanks!


----------



## Morphx2

aeneas01 said:


> do you have a link to those settings? thanks!


I dunno if this is the most up to date list. Try them all. 
View attachment 50406040settings.11.22(1).pdf


Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## farmecologist

Hi all, 

I have had my refurb 5040ub for a a couple months now. Love the projector! However, lately I have been experiencing flicker on Power Consumption=Eco mode, somewhat less flicker on Medium mode, and no flicker on High mode. I did some research and found that flicker can be a common problem with 'low power' modes for projectors in general. However, I have not experienced this with any projector until now.

Since the projector is under warranty, I'm assuming I should contact Epson and see what they have to say? Does anyone have experience with the 5040UB and ficker issues? Do they have you try a new bulb before sending it in?

Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide!


----------



## aeneas01

djmattyb said:


> Maybe you have it plugged into the wrong HDMI on the projector? Make sure to use HDMI1 and not HDMI2


i'm using both hdmi inputs on my pj (6050) and they seem to perform identically, they both support 4k hdr,is the 5040 different?


----------



## mwaarna

So I purchased one of these 5040 epson projects at launch and the bulb finally died. 

The projector has been amazing and lately with gaming dark scenes have been hard to see even with full brightness in the game.

As the projector bulb is dead I cannot see how many hours, after replacement will I see how many hours the old bulb had on it?

I do not have a spare on hand.

Where is everyone buying their bulbs at?

Looks like retail is 299 and epson appears to be out of stock.
https://epson.com/Accessories/Proje...-Replacement-Projector-Lamp-Bulb/p/V13H010L89

Amazon has it for 254:
https://www.amazon.com/Epson-V13H010L89-Elplp89-Projector-Lamp/dp/B01NBF5IV5

BH Photo also has it back ordered:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1289583-REG/epson_v13h010l89_elplp89.html

I see lots of non-genuine ones on sale for much cheaper, but I will avoid the non-oem bulb/housing setups.


----------



## aeneas01

Morphx2 said:


> I dunno if this is the most up to date list. Try them all.
> View attachment 2627304
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


thanks!


----------



## mwaarna

JustAnEE said:


> 2 days past 2 years and I now have the dreaded "replace lamp soon" message. Image is still plenty bright in Natural, I only use Bright Cinema if the room lighting is high (or sunlight making its way in) and no flickering I've noticed before previous epson failures..
> 
> Question: Is the projector just basing it on hours or is it "smarter" and based on some sort of self-tests? Extra risk (explosion/damage) to keep the bulb in longer?
> If it's purely an "hours" based replacement message, seems reasonable to keep running it a few more 1000.
> But if it's based on lamp self-tests (power consumption/etc), maybe it's time to order the replacement.
> 
> Hours from service menu:
> Total Operation time: 4729H
> Lamp Op. Time 4904H
> (3D/H/M/L/UL): 0H/ 1H/ 668H/ 4059H/ ----H
> Lamp ON/Lamp OFF: 763Times / 760Times
> 
> Looks like BHP has the best OEM replacement cost at $237. Guess that's better than $300.


BH Photo looks like it is 299 and back ordered:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...0832X1592984X67194f8ab3ffece326d3b59790a6fca8

Amazon looks to have it for 257:
https://www.amazon.com/Epson-V13H010L89-Elplp89-Projector-Lamp/dp/B01NBF5IV5

I am now shopping around for one, its really hard to see if they are legit oem bulb/housing. 


Where did you end up getting your replacement if you already got one?


----------



## BradP

Stereojeff said:


> Same here. No on or off problems with Harmony remote and my Epson 6040. The standard Epson codes have worked fine from the first set-up.
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff


Are you guys powering the Epson projectors off with your remote with IR in the room or via a mini blaster? Power off command isn't sending as part of a power off script from my mini blaster, but when I use my phone (not IR) to send the power off command from the mini blaster it works first try. So so weird.


----------



## Morphx2

BradP said:


> Are you guys powering the Epson projectors off with your remote with IR in the room or via a mini blaster? Power off command isn't sending as part of a power off script from my mini blaster, but when I use my phone (not IR) to send the power off command from the mini blaster it works first try. So so weird.


Just hitting power off from my harmony while in the same room.









Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Stereojeff

BradP said:


> Are you guys powering the Epson projectors off with your remote with IR in the room or via a mini blaster? Power off command isn't sending as part of a power off script from my mini blaster, but when I use my phone (not IR) to send the power off command from the mini blaster it works first try. So so weird.



I use a mini-blaster. Same performance from my iPhone X or the Harmony Hub.


Jeff


----------



## Morphx2

Anyone use a higher than 1.0 gain? 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

BradP said:


> Are you guys powering the Epson projectors off with your remote with IR in the room or via a mini blaster? Power off command isn't sending as part of a power off script from my mini blaster, but when I use my phone (not IR) to send the power off command from the mini blaster it works first try. So so weird.


I have no problem turning it off with the app or harmony remote but in the 'activity' I have it will turn it on, but not turn it off.


----------



## BradP

Brettmckinney said:


> BradP said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you guys powering the Epson projectors off with your remote with IR in the room or via a mini blaster? Power off command isn't sending as part of a power off script from my mini blaster, but when I use my phone (not IR) to send the power off command from the mini blaster it works first try. So so weird.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no problem turning it off with the app or harmony remote but in the 'activity' I have it will turn it on, but not turn it off.
Click to expand...

This. My exact same problem with my Harmony ultimate. Activity will not turn the Projector off but turns it on just fine. I have tried messing with delays and even added two power off button presses to the off sequence for the device itself separated by a one second delay and still no changes. It’s as if the off activity doesn’t even fire the power off command. It works instantly when I use the off command manually with my iOS app.


----------



## dangerdan92

Anyone have an issue with the image going black for a second or two randomly when watching something? I have the PJ connected to a newer Marantz receiver connected to the shield. I've already tried replacing the HDMI cables both between the receiver and shield and the receiver and the PJ. 

Is there a way to troubleshoot this further that I should be looking at? Any help would be very much appreciated!


----------



## DavidinGA

Morphx2 said:


> Anyone use a higher than 1.0 gain?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Mine is supposed to be a 1.1 gain screen.


----------



## Stereojeff

Morphx2 said:


> Anyone use a higher than 1.0 gain?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk



Stewart Studiotek 130 1.3 gain 80" x 45" (92" diagonal)



Jeff


----------



## mwaarna

FYI called Epson to see if they have any of the parts in stock, they did not but they referred me to their authorized dealers of Epson parts.

https://epson.com/Support/wa00399

Compass Micro has the original bulb replacement for 219:
https://compassmicro.com/lamp-assembly-v13h010l89-for-epson-powerlite-home-cinema-5040ub.html

And another company on their referral list has it for 179 but it is back ordered:
https://encompass.com/item/11449072/Epson/1697999/

Ended up ordering from Compass Micro.


----------



## Morphx2

Man, I suck at getting hdr to look good. Either dark scenes it looks great while bright scenes look washed out, or bright scenes good and dark scenes too dark or just everything is dark/yellowish. Regular SDR looks fine with default bright cinema mode. I tried all the HDR settings in the pdf (setting to auto or auto bright or sdr) and nothing seems to work well. I wonder if something is bad with my refurb epson :/ 

This is using my nvidia shield and a .8 gain ALR screen. 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

Morphx2 said:


> Man, I suck at getting hdr to look good. Either dark scenes it looks great while bright scenes look washed out, or bright scenes good and dark scenes too dark or just everything is dark/yellowish. Regular SDR looks fine with default bright mode. I tried all the HDR settings in the pdf (setting to auto or auto bright or sdr) and nothing seems to work well. I wonder if something is bad with my refurb epson :/
> 
> This is using my nvidia shield and a .8 gain ALR screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


I used the settings posted here and they've been flawless - definitely give them a try!

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-593.html#post58376282


----------



## Morphx2

Brettmckinney said:


> I used the settings posted here and they've been flawless - definitely give them a try!
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-593.html#post58376282


I tried it this morning again, it seemed very neutral at least, maybe a hint of a yellowish tint; but nothing that pops and make you say "woah!"


----------



## john hunter

Bright Cinema does not give you the full colour gamut - you need digital cinema or cinema.
That's probably why there is no pop to the picture.
Go to Display Calibration and try some of Adam's settings.
Think about getting a Spears and Munsil's set up disc.
While this seems to aimed more at flat screen users, you can still help us poor folks with PJs!
I have no technical knowledge but playing around with the settings on superb 8 min reference images, will eventually give you a picture that will make your jaw drop!


----------



## DavidinGA

Morphx2 said:


> Man, I suck at getting hdr to look good. Either dark scenes it looks great while bright scenes look washed out, or bright scenes good and dark scenes too dark or just everything is dark/yellowish. Regular SDR looks fine with default bright cinema mode. I tried all the HDR settings in the pdf (setting to auto or auto bright or sdr) and nothing seems to work well. I wonder if something is bad with my refurb epson :/
> 
> 
> 
> This is using my nvidia shield and a .8 gain ALR screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


If you want great HDR you need an htpc and use MadVR.

Without madVR, HDR will be mediocre at best... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## lazlovision

BradP said:


> This. My exact same problem with my Harmony ultimate. Activity will not turn the Projector off but turns it on just fine. I have tried messing with delays and even added two power off button presses to the off sequence for the device itself separated by a one second delay and still no changes. It’s as if the off activity doesn’t even fire the power off command. It works instantly when I use the off command manually with my iOS app.


I have the same problem with my harmony ultimate as well. Even contacted support but they were not helpful. Resigned myself to powering off via the projector's remote or by pressing the "fix my activity" button on the remote.


----------



## Morphx2

lazlovision said:


> I have the same problem with my harmony ultimate as well. Even contacted support but they were not helpful. Resigned myself to powering off via the projector's remote or by pressing the "fix my activity" button on the remote.


I'll try it tonight with my harmony non-ultimate for an activity if i have time

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## BradP

lazlovision said:


> I have the same problem with my harmony ultimate as well. Even contacted support but they were not helpful. Resigned myself to powering off via the projector's remote or by pressing the "fix my activity" button on the remote.


Thanks for at least helping me confirm I'm not crazy. If there's a secret sauce to a workaround for this software defect we have discovered, maybe someone can share (perhaps a magic combination of delay setting or power off sequence or something). I don't feel like Logitech is really supporting the remotes or software anymore so I'm not holding my breath on a fix for this reproducible problem that we have all seemed to discover (at least with the Epsons and the blaster as part of a power-off sequence). Thanks for at least sharing in the misery. If you or anyone, or me, finds a way to make the power off command actually send the off to the Epson as part of the macro, I'll certainly share. But I have tried a lot with no luck.


----------



## Morphx2

john hunter said:


> Bright Cinema does not give you the full colour gamut - you need digital cinema or cinema.
> 
> That's probably why there is no pop to the picture.
> 
> Go to Display Calibration and try some of Adam's settings.
> 
> Think about getting a Spears and Munsil's set up disc.
> 
> While this seems to aimed more at flat screen users, you can still help us poor folks with PJs!
> 
> I have no technical knowledge but playing around with the settings on superb 8 min reference images, will eventually give you a picture that will make your jaw drop!


Where are Adam's settings?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

Morphx2 said:


> Where are Adam's settings?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk



https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html


----------



## Morphx2

AdamAttewell said:


> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html


Thanks. The app on my phone wasnt linking it correctly. Still didnt, so I had to find posts started by you . Guessing it's the 6040 post?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## AdamAttewell

Morphx2 said:


> Thanks. The app on my phone wasnt linking it correctly. Still didnt, so I had to find posts started by you . Guessing it's the 6040 post?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk



The thread is called: *Projector Calibration (6040UB) - Second Look*


----------



## Morphx2

AdamAttewell said:


> The thread is called: *Projector Calibration (6040UB) - Second Look*


Thanks sir! Hope it works for me. If not, maybe it's my .8 gain ALR screen. 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Tristan944

Why are all my 4K movies faded/washed out? 

These are downloaded movie files. 1080p videos are perfect, only 4K movies are affected.

I've tried changing the projector settings, used different media players (Shield, Roku, Sony) etc and the videos always look washed out


----------



## gkman1

*Dolby Vision question with 5040UB*

I just bought the Sony 1100 which supports Dolby Vision. I'm assuming the 5040UB does not support it.....I was just wondering if I should keep Dolby Vision setting to "off" in the Sony player because it is useless when using the 5040UB...Wasn't sure if it would upscale it....Any thoughts....Thx


----------



## AdamAttewell

gkman1 said:


> I just bought the Sony 1100 which supports Dolby Vision. I'm assuming the 5040UB does not support it.....I was just wondering if I should keep Dolby Vision setting to "off" in the Sony player because it is useless when using the 5040UB...Wasn't sure if it would upscale it....Any thoughts....Thx



It will have no effect as the 5040UB does not support DV. 



The 540UB cannot send a DV EDID so the player will never try to send DV to the projector & there is no such thing as DV up-scaling.


----------



## pglover19

I received my refurbished 5040UB on Thursday. I'm using a Da-lite High Contrast Cinema Vision (HCCV) screen, a gray screen rated at 1.1 gain with the 5040UB projector. From the start just using the default settings, I noticed some graininess and sparkle on the picture. I then tried Dave Harper SDR settings and the picture is better but there still are some graininess and sparkle from my viewing distance of 13 foot. 

Is it time for me to upgrade my Da-Lite screen, is it my HDMI cable, or should I tweak the settings some more?


----------



## roland6465

Grain could be the source material, source output setting or the projector settings. Sparkles are definitely the cable. At 13' throw, I'd look at fiber HDMI cables.


----------



## Archaea

roland6465 said:


> Grain could be the source material, source output setting or the projector settings. Sparkles are definitely the cable. At 13' throw, I'd look at fiber HDMI cables.




That depends on how he is defining sparklies. If they are color bursting sparklies - ie digital noise then yes it could be HDMI. If it looks like white sparklies it would be reflected light (which is my suspicion) then it’s his high gain gray screen.


----------



## Archaea

dangerdan92 said:


> Anyone have an issue with the image going black for a second or two randomly when watching something? I have the PJ connected to a newer Marantz receiver connected to the shield. I've already tried replacing the HDMI cables both between the receiver and shield and the receiver and the PJ.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a way to troubleshoot this further that I should be looking at? Any help would be very much appreciated!




I have this problem on occasion with my Denon x7200wa and Epson 5040UB. Blowing out the HDMI connectors on the cable, AVR, and projector, (with a can of compressed air) seemed to have helped for now. I’ve read that cleaning the connectors on everything with an HDMI alcohol wipe pad can help too, but I’ve not tried that yet.


----------



## dangerdan92

Archaea said:


> I have this problem on occasion with my Denon x7200wa and Epson 5040UB. Blowing out the HDMI connectors on the cable, AVR, and projector, (with a can of compressed air) seemed to have helped for now. I’ve read that cleaning the connectors on everything with an HDMI alcohol wipe pad can help too, but I’ve not tried that yet.


I seemed to have fixed it by setting my nVidia Shield to stay at 24p and keeping the Projector Setting to BT2020. I'm not sure which of the settings caused it to stop happening but I'm gonna start reverting settings until it happens again to see what was causing it. But thankfully it hasn't happened in a few days when it was happening every 15 minutes or so. Hope this helps!


----------



## roland6465

Archaea said:


> That depends on how he is defining sparklies. If they are color bursting sparklies - ie digital noise then yes it could be HDMI. If it looks like white sparklies I’d reflected light (which is my suspicion) then it’s his high gain gray screen.



True. Not a lot of info to go on here.


----------



## BillyBarcode`

Hi....just going to weigh in on some HC5040UB troubles. 

I bought a 5040 refurb recently and after a few hours of use (didn't even get it hung from the ceiling), the image would disappear for a few seconds, though intermittently, so I called Epson, who determined it was an HDMI issue, and immediately sent me another unit. It did the same thing, and I tested it with another, new (4K) cable. Same thing. So I was going to call Epson again, but my wife suggested it might be our AV Receiver, as my previous projector (an HC3020) that the 5040UB replaced did the same thing, only not as often. Since I changed out the cable already, and both the projectors were replaced, the only thing left was the AV Receiver. So I bit the bullet and replaced the receiver with a unit that supports 4K, 3D, HDR, etc. Turns out it was the old receiver all along. Even with the old plenum-rated cable that was embedded in the floor, now the 5040UB worked perfectly. The projector is performing flawlessly now. I also moved the HC3020 upstairs to another room, and tested it with a different AV receiver... and surprise, surprise, it's working again, too. If you are feeding a signal to your new projector from older technology, this could be an issue.

If anyone has similar issues, it makes sense to check the entire chain for signal.


----------



## gene4ht

BillyBarcode` said:


> Hi....just going to weigh in on some HC5040UB troubles.
> 
> I bought a 5040 refurb recently and after a few hours of use (didn't even get it hung from the ceiling), the image would disappear for a few seconds, though intermittently, so I called Epson, who determined it was an HDMI issue, and immediately sent me another unit. It did the same thing, and I tested it with another, new (4K) cable. Same thing. So I was going to call Epson again, but *my wife suggested it might be our AV Receiver,* as my previous projector (an HC3020) that the 5040UB replaced did the same thing, only not as often. Since I changed out the cable already, and both the projectors were replaced, the only thing left was the AV Receiver. So I bit the bullet and replaced the receiver with a unit that supports 4K, 3D, HDR, etc. Turns out it was the old receiver all along. Even with the old plenum-rated cable that was embedded in the floor, now the 5040UB worked perfectly. The projector is performing flawlessly now. I also moved the HC3020 upstairs to another room, and tested it with a different AV receiver... and surprise, surprise, it's working again, too. If you are feeding a signal to your new projector from older technology, this could be an issue.
> 
> If anyone has similar issues, it makes sense to check the entire chain for signal.


Glad you resolved your issue...always good to get a second/different perspective/opinion.


----------



## pglover19

pglover19 said:


> I received my refurbished 5040UB on Thursday. I'm using a Da-lite High Contrast Cinema Vision (HCCV) screen, a gray screen rated at 1.1 gain with the 5040UB projector. From the start just using the default settings, I noticed some graininess and sparkle on the picture. I then tried Dave Harper SDR settings and the picture is better but there still are some graininess and sparkle from my viewing distance of 13 foot.
> 
> Is it time for me to upgrade my Da-Lite screen, is it my HDMI cable, or should I tweak the settings some more?


I am thinking about just replacing my 92" tab tensioned Da-lite High Contrast Cinema Vision (HCCV) screen with another Da-Lite tab tensioned screen. The larger size that will fit in my room is 110". I called Da-Lite today and they recommended the Tensioned Contour Electrol with the HD Progressive .60 gain material. 

Any other recommendation on the Da-Lite screen material that is a good match for the 5040UB?


----------



## Morphx2

So what are people using for 3d glasses? Hopefully some that aren't too $$

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## pglover19

pglover19 said:


> I am thinking about just replacing my 92" tab tensioned Da-lite High Contrast Cinema Vision (HCCV) screen with another Da-Lite tab tensioned screen. The larger size that will fit in my room is 110". I called Da-Lite today and they recommended the Tensioned Contour Electrol with the HD Progressive .60 gain material.
> 
> Any other recommendation on the Da-Lite screen material that is a good match for the 5040UB?


I have been doing a lot of research over the last couple of days and have decided to bit the bullet and get a Stewart tab tensioned 110" projector screen. I'm hoping this will be my final screen and will be future proof as well.

The screen material choice is what I am struggling with right now. I have narrowed the choices to:

ST130 screen
ST100 screen
Cima Neve screen


----------



## Archaea

pglover19 said:


> I have been doing a lot of research over the last couple of days and have decided to bit the bullet and get a Stewart tab tensioned 110" projector screen. I'm hoping this will be my final screen and will be future proof as well.
> 
> 
> 
> The screen material choice is what I am struggling with right now. I have narrowed the choices to:
> 
> 
> 
> ST130 screen
> 
> ST100 screen
> 
> Cima Neve screen



Have you used their screen selector helper?
None of the ones you list above appear as recommendations for you (in what I plugged into the configuration given what I thought I knew about your room - 110”, opaque material needed, moderate light control in room (Windows with shades drawn - but projector screen in front of window)), 

https://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/en/screen-finder

Also why are you even considering the ST130 when you told us you didn’t like sparklies on your current 1.1 gain screen and that ST 130 is a 1.3 gain screen?

It seems you haven’t done your research or even listened to those advising you in the other thread.

The ST 100 screen material is a solid base to start from but is intended for black rooms with light control

Reviewed here:
https://www.soundandvision.com/content/stewart-filmscreen-studiotek-100-screen

Reviewed here:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/stewart_studiotek_100.htm

Those are the first two reviews that came up in a google search and even in one of these reviews they says the ST 130 screen has texture artifacts from the gain increase of 1.3 which is the reviewer’s way of noting what you are calling sparklies.

This ST 1.0 screen will be fine if you don’t decide on going with a gray screen base to offset your ambient light.

I can’t even find stats in the Cima Neva screen. The about page at Stewart doesn’t list them.
https://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/en/screens/cima-by-stewart-filmscreen

What are the gain stats on the material? How is off angle viewing rates? I see it comes in gray for rooms with ambient light. (Which you may be interested in) but without stats on the material I’d be hesitant.


----------



## don851

Morphx2 said:


> So what are people using for 3d glasses? Hopefully some that aren't too $$
> 
> I have 4 of these that I've been using, they sync up quickly and work great.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BW36TXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## lweisenb

So I purchased a 5040UB refurb, first unit out of the box powers on and runs until I switch from Bright Cinema to Digital Cinema then the goes dark and the lense cover closes and I get three lights blinking (auto-iris), second unit arrives and does the exact same thing and they want to do another exchange but have no inventory... apparently when there is no inventory the expectation is you continue to call everyday until there is stock???? Is there any other solution to the auto iris issues (I read about the power problems but haven’t seen wide spread reports or iris problems)?


Thanks in advance.


----------



## roland6465

lweisenb said:


> So I purchased a 5040UB refurb, first unit out of the box powers on and runs until I switch from Bright Cinema to Digital Cinema then the goes dark and the lense cover closes and I get three lights blinking (auto-iris), second unit arrives and does the exact same thing and they want to do another exchange but have no inventory... apparently when there is no inventory the expectation is you continue to call everyday until there is stock???? Is there any other solution to the auto iris issues (I read about the power problems but haven’t seen wide spread reports or iris problems)?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Sorry to tell you this, but you are now stuck in Epson's "refurb roulette." I personally believe that once a defective unit is returned, it is plugged in, and if it fires up, gets repackaged as a refurb replacement. I know the price was great. I know it gave you more bang for your buck, but you get what you pay for, especially with a refurb, and in my experience, Epson.


I was lucky enough that I was able to sell my (fifth) refurb replacement of a new 6040 to a friend with a bar who didn't mind the dust blob for a decent price before the new models came out. Almost had to sleep in the shed due to stepping up to another brand, but she agrees it would have been better to just spend the money for the Sony in the first place.


----------



## pglover19

Archaea said:


> Have you used their screen selector helper?
> None of the ones you list above appear as recommendations for you (in what I plugged into the configuration given what I thought I knew about your room - 110”, opaque material needed, moderate light control in room (Windows with shades drawn - but projector screen in front of window)),
> 
> https://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/en/screen-finder
> 
> Also why are you even considering the ST130 when you told us you didn’t like sparklies on your current 1.1 gain screen and that ST 130 is a 1.3 gain screen?
> 
> It seems you haven’t done your research or even listened to those advising you in the other thread.
> 
> The ST 100 screen material is a solid base to start from but is intended for black rooms with light control
> 
> Reviewed here:
> https://www.soundandvision.com/content/stewart-filmscreen-studiotek-100-screen
> 
> Reviewed here:
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/stewart_studiotek_100.htm
> 
> Those are the first two reviews that came up in a google search and even in one of these reviews they says the ST 130 screen has texture artifacts from the gain increase of 1.3 which is the reviewer’s way of noting what you are calling sparklies.
> 
> This ST 1.0 screen will be fine if you don’t decide on going with a gray screen base to offset your ambient light.
> 
> I can’t even find stats in the Cima Neva screen. The about page at Stewart doesn’t list them.
> https://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/en/screens/cima-by-stewart-filmscreen
> 
> What are the gain stats on the material? How is off angle viewing rates? I see it comes in gray for rooms with ambient light. (Which you may be interested in) but without stats on the material I’d be hesitant.


Sorry about the confusion.

I called Stewart directly today and talked to someone in the Sales department. Based on my room condition, they recommended the following screen material.

1. Grayhawk (.09 gain, has the opaque backing already)
https://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/en/materials/grayhawk-g4

2. ST 100 with the opaque backing added.


----------



## gkman1

I've had my 5040 for over a year now and really like it, but always looking for the perfect picture. I've tried the settings from others that were mentioned here, but the picture is just okay...It seems I get the best setting using the default bright cinema......I'm using the Sony ES1100 4K player.....I saw in other posts about using MadVR, but I have no idea what that is....Anyone else using the default bright cinema and content with it???


----------



## Zuvassin

I recently purchased the new Roku Ultra 2019. When streaming from Amazon Prime I am getting 4k30Hz HDR. However when I am playing anything from Netflix its running at 1080p HDR (or so the projector says). Even my Onkyo Receiver is stating that the signal is only 1080p and the receiver itself supports 4K/60 Hz, HDR10, Dolby vision, hlg, BT.2020, and HDCP 2.2 pass-through.

Any ideas on why Netflix isn't supplying a 4k image (I have the right subscription package)? Do I need a device like the Fury Linker? I'm not actually familiar with what it does.


----------



## Morphx2

gkman1 said:


> I've had my 5040 for over a year now and really like it, but always looking for the perfect picture. I've tried the settings from others that were mentioned here, but the picture is just okay...It seems I get the best setting using the default bright cinema......I'm using the Sony ES1100 4K player.....I saw in other posts about using MadVR, but I have no idea what that is....Anyone else using the default bright cinema and content with it???


Any ambient light? I finally found something good for me. Took a few weeks of tinkering. I have an ambient light screen and white walls in a living room

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## lweisenb

In case this can help anyone else who’s projector failed to power on due to auto-iris/cinema filter issues I was able to short cut the power on cycle by holding menu+ok a few seconds after startup. This time instead of powering of and blinking I actually got a cinema filter error on screen and was able to go back to Bright Cinema and now use the projector until Epson has a replacement to send.


----------



## gkman1

Morphx2 said:


> Any ambient light? I finally found something good for me. Took a few weeks of tinkering. I have an ambient light screen and white walls in a living room
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


The room is very dark.....just a little bit of ambient light in the daytime....What has worked for you? Thx for your help...appreciate it...


----------



## sddp

lweisenb said:


> So I purchased a 5040UB refurb, first unit out of the box powers on and runs until I switch from Bright Cinema to Digital Cinema then the goes dark and the lense cover closes and I get three lights blinking (auto-iris), second unit arrives and does the exact same thing and they want to do another exchange but have no inventory... apparently when there is no inventory the expectation is you continue to call everyday until there is stock???? Is there any other solution to the auto iris issues (I read about the power problems but haven’t seen wide spread reports or iris problems)?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.


 

WHOA!!


I would call every other day, then 2nd week every day, after 2 days on 2nd week, every hour till every one in the company and the CEO knows me personally.
Returning a lemon with a lemon? nah, that doesn't work for me.




But then again this one of the reasons I would never buy re-furbed unit from anyone. New and sometimes with BB extened warranty on an Amex card that gives and extra 1 year warranty. So that can be up to 6 years of not caring about anything going wrong except a phone call. Anything goes wrong and it can be fixed you get new one


----------



## Morphx2

gkman1 said:


> The room is very dark.....just a little bit of ambient light in the daytime....What has worked for you? Thx for your help...appreciate it...


http://imgur.com/gallery/ZpTCKE5

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## BradP

Brettmckinney said:


> So I actually just came here to post the EXACT same thing. Man, so frustrating! So I've been trying as much as I can to get it power it off but yeah, nothing seems to work. I re-taught the 'off' command by pointing the Epson remote at the hub that didn't work either.
> 
> Would love to know if anyone has figured this out! It's awesome having the 'turn on projector' command to turn it on, set my avr to the input and dim my lights off. Just wish I could turn it off without having to grab another remote!





Brettmckinney said:


> I have no problem turning it off with the app or harmony remote but in the 'activity' I have it will turn it on, but not turn it off.


Hey, just wanted to share I finally figured this out for anyone else interested. It seems that when the "power off" activity takes place, and the devices power off, the Harmony will power off your HTPC or whatever viewing device you have (an Nvidia Shield in my case). When that happens, the Epson projector goes into some sort of display search mode when it sees the signal get lost. During this time, it doesn't seem to receive any power commands or anything really that are sent to it, for a few seconds, until it realizes, OK, the device sending me the signal is gone. This seems to be happening oddly even with the Epson listed first to get the power off command in the activity end sequence.

To remedy this, and please feel free to weigh in if anyone has refined further...I added a 7 second delay, followed by a second "power off" signal, to the Device's power off command for the Epson 5040. Therefore, the power off command sequence (in the device configuration in harmony app) is now: PowerOff, Delay 7S, PowerOff. This seems to have finally fixed it for me.

This only seemed to be an issue using a mini blaster to power off the projector, which is what I assume many of us with Harmony hubs are doing.


----------



## hemo cave

Hi,

I do hope this helps someone, My Epson TW9300 / 5040ub stopped working, when i press it the lights continue to blink blue, no image is displayed and then the fan started to go full speed and nothing you could do about it unless you unplug it from the mains, i went to the local store and told me you need to replace the mother board but its out of warranty so i was left with either a huge bill to fix it or just buy a new one, A friend of mine told me to try and change the lamp, so i bought a new lamp and i swapped it with the old one .... IT WORKS.

Iam not sure why this is not in any forms cause i looked for over a month with no results so if you have my issue please try to replace your lamp. I have made a youtube video on that if you would like to see.

Thank you.


----------



## Daniel Marques

*SHould I buy a 5040ub now? Is it safe?*

Hi! Should I worry about buying a 5040ub unit right now? I've heard about a lot of problems regarding the power supply. Did epson fix those problems?


----------



## Stereojeff

Daniel Marques said:


> Hi! Should I worry about buying a 5040ub unit right now? I've heard about a lot of problems regarding the power supply. Did epson fix those problems?



I used to do business with Epson supplying them with home theater products on an OEM level. A friend of mine who works there told me that the power supply problem was fixed when we spoke at the 2018 CEDIA Expo. I did not press for details. My current (and 3rd) PJ has worked flawlessly for a year and one-half and I believe AVS reports (or lack thereof) support his comments. The power supply issue has been addressed.


Jeff


----------



## gene4ht

Daniel Marques said:


> Hi! Should I worry about buying a 5040ub unit right now? I've heard about a lot of problems regarding the power supply. Did epson fix those problems?





Stereojeff said:


> I used to do business with Epson supplying them with home theater products on an OEM level. A friend of mine who works there told me that the power supply problem was fixed when we spoke at the 2018 CEDIA Expo. I did not press for details. My current (and 3rd) PJ has worked flawlessly for a year and one-half and I believe AVS reports (or lack thereof) support his comments. The power supply issue has been addressed.
> 
> 
> Jeff


Appreciate your input/response/perspective but the real question is why Epson elected to remain absolutely silent during this period. Most organizations today understand that complete transparency earns greater trust and respect. Even now, the consumer’s understanding is anecdotal and not common/general knowledge as the information is not an official statement from Epson’s leadership.


----------



## Stereojeff

gene4ht said:


> Appreciate your input/response/perspective but the real question is why Epson elected to remain absolutely silent during this period. Most organizations today understand that complete transparency earns greater trust and respect. Even now, the consumer’s understanding is anecdotal and not common/general knowledge as the information is not an official statement from Epson’s leadership.



The OP did not ask if Epson handled the power supply problems correctly. He asked if it was safe to purchase the projector. Based on my experience and the answer I received from Epson, the answer is yes. 



Jeff


----------



## gene4ht

Stereojeff said:


> The OP did not ask if Epson handled the power supply problems correctly. He asked if it was safe to purchase the projector. Based on my experience and the answer I received from Epson, the answer is yes.
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff


Agreed...IMO however, in today’s marketplace, Epson’s response would have been far more favorable if it had been a leadership “push” rather than an external “pull.”


----------



## jesped2

Is there any way to force HDR in 3D modes?


----------



## TeslaMS

Hi guys,

I was messing around yesterday and noticed my HT Installer is running my video through HDMI 2, the one not labeled HDCP 2.2.

I read that HDCPI 2.2 is better quality so I unplugged from port 2 and into port 1 (hdcp2.2). When I did that, my BDP won’t play the video on discs.

Why would that happen and what should I do if I want HDCP 2.2 if it’s better?

Is it true that I need to connect to HDCP2.2 for 4k? Or does the other port also play 4k?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TeslaMS

TeslaMS said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I was messing around yesterday and noticed my HT Installer is running my video through HDMI 2, the one not labeled HDCP 2.2.
> 
> I read that HDCPI 2.2 is better quality so I unplugged from port 2 and into port 1 (hdcp2.2). When I did that, my BDP won’t play the video on discs.
> 
> Why would that happen and what should I do if I want HDCP 2.2 if it’s better?
> 
> Is it true that I need to connect to HDCP2.2 for 4k? Or does the other port also play 4k?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Bump! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tibimakai

I'm new with this pj., there is a media player, that plays nice with this pj and an Onkyo receiver? It is hard to find this info, in 605 pages.


----------



## TeslaMS

tibimakai said:


> I'm new with this pj., there is a media player, that plays nice with this pj and an Onkyo receiver? It is hard to find this info, in 605 pages.




Any media player will play with any projector. Just make sure it has hdmi connections which all do these days anyways. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tibimakai

Thanks, but I was thinking about the 4k/HDR stuff. I should have been more specific about that.


----------



## TeslaMS

I just bought a Firestick 4k last week for only $25 from amazon. Check on slickdeals.

It has 4K/HDR 10/Dolby Vision.

I do not see “4k” logo display on it though. It reads 1080P.

I am assuming because our projector does not do native 4K, it upconverts it to like 4K.

I do think it’s better than normal 1080P though because I have non 4K Netflix programming and the “4k” content Amazon looks much clearer than 1080P on Netflix. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Archaea

TeslaMS said:


> I just bought a Firestick 4k last week for only $25 from amazon. Check on slickdeals.
> 
> It has 4K/HDR 10/Dolby Vision.
> 
> I do not see “4k” logo display on it though. It reads 1080P.
> 
> I am assuming because our projector does not do native 4K, it upconverts it to like 4K.
> 
> I do think it’s better than normal 1080P though because I have non 4K Netflix programming and the “4k” content Amazon looks much clearer than 1080P on Netflix.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




The 5040UB can do 4k and my 4K firestick does 4K on it. You have to enable 4K on the firestick and some have to upgrade their HDMI option to see it. Don’t lose sleep over it. The 1080p upscaled is really good on this projector. Im going to say its as good as native 4k for the most part.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Archaea

bigbadbob said:


> What’s the best way to turn off the projector? Is it ok to just power it off or should there be a cool down before turning it off?


There is a standby button on the remote. You should use that. The fan will run after power-down until the bulb is cool.

You should NEVER just unplug a running projector. Its a good way to get immediate or premature bulb failure.


----------



## TeslaMS

Archaea said:


> The 5040UB can do 4k and my 4K firestick does 4K on it. You have to enable 4K on the firestick and some have to upgrade their HDMI option to see it. Don’t lose sleep over it. The 1080p upscaled is really good on this projector. Im going to say its as good as native 4k for the most part.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Hi so how do I know if I’m getting “4k?” Will it be 4k even though it says 1080P or does that mean I’m not getting 4K?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TeslaMS

Also, I posted this in the FS4K thread but it’s not getting any action can you take a look at some additional questions I had:

Official 2018 (new) FireTV Stick 4K--Dolby Vision, HDR10+, Dolby Atmos
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...ad.php?t=3006368&share_type=t&link_source=app


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## YIPENG SUN

Is it suitable to have 5040UB + UH480 Anamorphic Lens to project 175'' (2.35:1) normal gain 1.0 screen? 

Without UH480, the screen would be around 140'' (16:9)


----------



## Archaea

TeslaMS said:


> Archaea said:
> 
> 
> 
> The 5040UB can do 4k and my 4K firestick does 4K on it. You have to enable 4K on the firestick and some have to upgrade their HDMI option to see it. Donâ€™️t lose sleep over it. The 1080p upscaled is really good on this projector. Im going to say its as good as native 4k for the most part.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi so how do I know if Iâ€™️m getting â€œ4k?â€ Will it be 4k even though it says 1080P or does that mean Iâ€™️m not getting 4K?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Using the Epson remote go into the info tab, you’ll find the live display source info there.


----------



## TeslaMS

Must I use the HDMI 2.0 port to experience 4K, or 1.4 port is fine?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tibimakai

I'm looking out for a broken one, to try to repair it. I'm curious as well, what could be the problem. It is hard to find a broken one, for a decent price. Specially now, since I have this pj as well.


----------



## gene4ht

tibimakai said:


> *I'm looking out for a broken one, to try to repair it.* I'm curious as well, what could be the problem. It is hard to find a broken one, for a decent price. Specially now, since I have this pj as well.


That would be enlightening for many as Epson did not even publicly acknowledge the failure. I also have a background in electronics and as you are probably aware, PSU failures are relatively easy/simple to diagnose and repair. Please post any further findings and information you may discover.


----------



## tibimakai

Here is one. It is kind of expensive for a broken device. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Epson-Powe...261694&hash=item2cfb998007:g:p-YAAOSwA75dxfM1


----------



## gene4ht

tibimakai said:


> Here is one. It is kind of expensive for a broken device.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Epson-Powe...261694&hash=item2cfb998007:g:p-YAAOSwA75dxfM1


If one was available locally for $200 - $250 or so, I would probably give it a shot...could use it as a back up or easily repair and sell it for $500 - $750.


----------



## sddp

*Disney+ Mandalorian on XBOX ONE X HDR?*

Anyone here watch Mandalorian using an XBOX 1X on their 5040?

Wanted to see if this is the best video quality I can get with my system?

I'm attaching a pic of the projector info:


----------



## momofx

sddp said:


> Anyone here watch Mandalorian using an XBOX 1X on their 5040?
> 
> Wanted to see if this is the best video quality I can get with my system?
> 
> I'm attaching a pic of the projector info:


Wait, youre using component input?


----------



## momofx

gene4ht said:


> tibimakai said:
> 
> 
> 
> *I'm looking out for a broken one, to try to repair it.* I'm curious as well, what could be the problem. It is hard to find a broken one, for a decent price. Specially now, since I have this pj as well.
> 
> 
> 
> That would be enlightening for many as Epson did not even publicly acknowledge the failure. I also have a background in electronics and as you are probably aware, PSU failures are relatively easy/simple to diagnose and repair. Please post any further findings and information you may discover.
Click to expand...

Im guessing its probably a switching supply. Wonder if maybe its pulling too much sometimes for the psu transistors or transformer, heck might be a poor heatsink like the old xbox 360s lol. I would sure like to get into one with a bad psu but like you said, they are still too high 😞


----------



## sddp

momofx said:


> Wait, youre using component input?


Hmmm. Not sure why it shows component?
HDMI from the XBOX to the Denon 6400H and HDMI to the Epson 5040UBE wireless transmitter.


----------



## Lowkae

I'm looking for a projector to last me about 3 years before I can afford a better one. I'm split between buying the 5040ub or the 5050ub. I'm looking at:

A 5040ub refurb for $1400 on Amazon
A new 5040ub for $1800 on HDVisionWorks or
A new 5050ub for $2700 from wherever.

I'm a bit worried about the PSU failure issue on the 5040ub refurb, but I'm assuming it'll come with the 2 year Epson warranty. I'm planning on using it for 4k blu-rays, and will use the Nvidia Shield workaround to get 4k HDR if I want it.

Thoughts?


----------



## noob00224

Lowkae said:


> I'm looking for a projector to last me about 3 years before I can afford a better one. I'm split between buying the 5040ub or the 5050ub. I'm looking at:
> 
> A 5040ub refurb for $1400 on Amazon
> A new 5040ub for $1800 on HDVisionWorks or
> A new 5050ub for $2700 from wherever.
> 
> I'm a bit worried about the PSU failure issue on the 5040ub refurb, but I'm assuming it'll come with the 2 year Epson warranty. I'm planning on using it for 4k blu-rays, and will use the Nvidia Shield workaround to get 4k HDR if I want it.
> 
> Thoughts?


https://epson.com/Clearance-Center/...5850&cjevent=f20ea172515711e981a300c40a240610

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...9050-refurbished-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a.html


----------



## Lowkae

noob00224 said:


> https://epson.com/Clearance-Center/...5850&cjevent=f20ea172515711e981a300c40a240610
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...9050-refurbished-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a.html


Didn't notice the refurbished 5040ube was still in stock, while the regular 5040ub was out of stock. Great price. Will definitely be getting this. Thanks.


----------



## madermat

I just got one of the 5040 ube this tuesday and so far so good didt get the wireless to work yet but didnt really care about that


----------



## momofx

*Best 3D Glasses ?*

What 3D Glasses are you guys using and how do you like them? I'm looking for some that are comfortable and cover the sides too...


----------



## tibimakai

The UBE refurb comes with an extra bulb?


----------



## dazz87

tibimakai said:


> The UBE refurb comes with an extra bulb?


no it comes with hdmi wireless Extender Kit


----------



## AdamAttewell

madermat said:


> I just got one of the 5040 ube this tuesday and so far so good didt get the wireless to work yet but didnt really care about that



Epson ELPGS03 3D glasses, I have tested Samsung & Sony glasses which both let through more cross-talk due to not dimming enough.


They are pricey but they will give you the best image in terms of cross talk.


----------



## noob00224

AdamAttewell said:


> Epson ELPGS03 3D glasses, I have tested Samsung & Sony glasses which both let through more cross-talk due to not dimming enough.
> 
> 
> 
> They are pricey but they will give you the best image in terms of cross talk.


Maybe this will help:



Deja Vu said:


> I have a number of Epson 3D projectors including the LS10,000 (laser). I've always been disappointed with Epson's 3D (too much cross-talk, especially in the background).
> 
> However, not long ago out of frustration I decided to play with the 3D depth setting. I thought that by decreasing depth it might ameliorate the cross-talk somewhat. It made cross-talk worse so out of desperation I tried increasing depth to plus 2 and was shocked when the "ghosting" disappeared. There was no downside to this change. I also have two 2016 JVC projectors, which have exceptionally good 3D. The Epson now has the least cross-talk of any of my non-DLP projectors and overall it has the best 3D when cross-talk, contrast, black level and brightness are all taken into consideration.
> 
> I tried the same changes to the 3D on my Epson 5020 and it helped the cross-talk but it seemed to negatively impact the sharpness of the 3D image.
> 
> Anyway, if you have an Epson 3D projector increase the 3D depth setting by a couple of clicks and see if that helps with cross-talk.


----------



## momofx

AdamAttewell said:


> madermat said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just got one of the 5040 ube this tuesday and so far so good didt get the wireless to work yet but didnt really care about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson ELPGS03 3D glasses, I have tested Samsung & Sony glasses which both let through more cross-talk due to not dimming enough.
> 
> 
> They are pricey but they will give you the best image in terms of cross talk.
Click to expand...


Well I'm kinda confused now lol - someone tried the Samsung and Epson on Amazon and said the opposite... maybe I will try both and also what noob posted 🙂


----------



## hatchiqqq

I ordered a 5040ube a week ago and got it yesterday. It worked all of 10 minutes before dying. I called customer service today and they are shipping me a replacement on Monday with next day shipping. Hope that one works! The picture was amazing for those 10 minutes!


----------



## momofx

hatchiqqq said:


> I ordered a 5040ube a week ago and got it yesterday. It worked all of 10 minutes before dying. I called customer service today and they are shipping me a replacement on Monday with next day shipping. Hope that one works! The picture was amazing for those 10 minutes!



This is the VERY reason I decided to bite the bullet and just get the 5050ub which according to what I read, the psu problem is fixed.


I read that alot of the refurbs where still having the psu problem and then some people would say oh they fixed it in the refurb ones... too much confusion. It's like a toss of the coin with the 5040ub...


----------



## hatchiqqq

I bought the 5040ube with an additional 2 years of warranty through my credit card. I figure that if I get one that lasts 4 years at $1300, that’s a good deal. Or if I’m lucky, they’ll run out of 5040s and replace it with a 5050 later on. Either way i think it’ll be a good deal.
OTOH, I really hope I’m not playing refurb roulette too many times...


----------



## momofx

hatchiqqq said:


> I bought the 5040ube with an additional 2 years of warranty through my credit card. I figure that if I get one that lasts 4 years at $1300, that’s a good deal. Or if I’m lucky, they’ll run out of 5040s and replace it with a 5050 later on. Either way i think it’ll be a good deal.
> OTOH, I really hope I’m not playing refurb roulette too many times...


Yeah you can't go wrong as far as picture quality goes with either one and Epson customer service is top notch. One of the main reasons I made Epson my xmas present this year


----------



## roland6465

momofx said:


> Yeah you can't go wrong as far as picture quality goes with either one and Epson customer service is top notch. One of the main reasons I made Epson my xmas present this year 🙂



If by "top notch", you mean they'll immediately ship you a refurb that probably has more problems than the one you're sending back, then yeah, top notch.


----------



## gene4ht

momofx said:


> Yeah you can't go wrong as far as picture quality goes with either one and Epson customer service is top notch. One of the main reasons I made Epson my xmas present this year





roland6465 said:


> If by "top notch", you mean they'll immediately ship you a refurb that probably has more problems than the one you're sending back, then yeah, top notch.


I’m in agreement relative to performance and warrant process. However, Epson’s consumer communication, transparency, and refurb QA/QC as noted by many requires attention.


----------



## madermat

hatchiqqq said:


> I ordered a 5040ube a week ago and got it yesterday. It worked all of 10 minutes before dying. I called customer service today and they are shipping me a replacement on Monday with next day shipping. Hope that one works! The picture was amazing for those 10 minutes!


Dang I have 25 hours on mine so far so good I put a 1000 hours a year on so im sure a problem will manifest before the 2 years are up


----------



## Dustin Kirk

Hey Everyone,
I am a new owner of a refurbished Epson 5040ube purchased directly from Epson - I couldn't pass up the deal. I replaced an Epson 8350 that I used for many years. I was pretty disappointed to find out that the 5040 won't "just work" with a Xbox one X for both streaming and gaming using 4k/HDR. That said, part of me wants to just keep my standard Xbox and my current receiver and let the 5040 use 4k enhancement for "4k" video and gaming. 

Here's my old setup:

Epson 8350 Projector
Original Xbox One
Pioneer VSX-1019AH AV Receiver. 

My plan was to buy a 4K capable receiver and a Xbox One X on Black Friday so that I could finally enjoy 4K/HDr with my fancy new projector. Now I am thinking I should just keep my existing setup and enjoy the upscaling instead. I would LOVE to get everything I can out of this new projector, out of the box it looks pretty great upscaling 1080P. Hell, it's almost too bright in a dark room!

I do know there is the option of a HDfury scaler that fools the projector into thinking the stream from the Xbox is 4k/HDR10 at 60hz, I might go that option if I want to spend even more money. 

Please be kind if I have some terminology wrong or if I don't know what I am talking about. I'd ultimately like to know if I should spend the money on a new Xbox/Receiver with a HD fury scaler, or should I just let the projector work with the 1080p signal I have now?


----------



## buz

*5040UB just died*

Well, I just had another 5040UB die on me. I purchased 2.5 years ago, and that one died after about a year or so. Now it's replacement has bitten the dust. I don't think they ever really fixed anything on these projectors. I still have to call epson to see if they will do a swap no charge, even though it's out of the initial 2 years warantee, the replacement didn't last 2 years. If they don't swap it, I'll probably be looking for a new projector. I will not give Epson any more money. If they don't replace it, I'll probably just put up my backup 3020 I have, and after Christmas, I'll look at a JVC or Sony.

buz


----------



## MississippiMan

buz said:


> Well, I just had another 5040UB die on me. I purchased 2.5 years ago, and that one died after about a year or so. Now it's replacement has bitten the dust. I don't think they ever really fixed anything on these projectors. I still have to call epson to see if they will do a swap no charge, even though it's out of the initial 2 years warantee, the replacement didn't last 2 years. If they don't swap it, I'll probably be looking for a new projector. I will not give Epson any more money. If they don't replace it, I'll probably just put up my backup 3020 I have, and after Christmas, I'll look at a JVC or Sony.
> 
> buz



A swap out is improbable. Your replacement lasted a year...or at least long enough for the original warranty to run it's course, and any replacement always / only continues the original warranty time frame...even if you were graced with a new unit.

You should look at the satisfaction index that owners of the newer 5050 units have, and not overly fault Epson, who while not perfect by any means regarding the 5040 Refurb issues, really has NOT had that high a percentage of unit failures across the 1000s of projectors in the hands of customers.

This Forum is simply a watering hole where those who are disaffected come to elaborate on their issues. It does not represent the "majority".. For instance...I'm a Designer / Integrator who has installed at least 18-19 5040s since they came out, and to date, only one had issues and that was Panel related...not a power supply.

I know that really, only your situation matters to you...as it should. I just advise not to dismiss the 5050 out of hand as it is going to be a very solid (...and more affordable...) choice than JVC...or SONY. And that is coming from someone who fawns on using a JVC whenever the budget allows.


----------



## tibimakai

Buz, sorry to hear what is happening with your projector. I hope they will take care of you, but if they don't, than consider selling that pj to me and maybe I can find out, what is wrong with these pjs.


----------



## hatchiqqq

buz said:


> Well, I just had another 5040UB die on me. I purchased 2.5 years ago, and that one died after about a year or so. Now it's replacement has bitten the dust. I don't think they ever really fixed anything on these projectors. I still have to call epson to see if they will do a swap no charge, even though it's out of the initial 2 years warantee, the replacement didn't last 2 years. If they don't swap it, I'll probably be looking for a new projector. I will not give Epson any more money. If they don't replace it, I'll probably just put up my backup 3020 I have, and after Christmas, I'll look at a JVC or Sony.
> 
> buz


Sorry to hear Buz. How many hours did you have on it?

Also an update on my replacement refurb unit. It came on Tuesday and seems to be working great so far. There are scratches on the lens but it doesn't appear to affect the image, so I won't worry about that. Hopefully this unit lasts a good long time.


----------



## momofx

tibimakai said:


> Buz, sorry to hear what is happening with your projector. I hope they will take care of you, but if they don't, than consider selling that pj to me and maybe I can find out, what is wrong with these pjs.



I was thinking the same thing but heck I barely have time for anything nowdays. Hope you find one and get to take it apart. I can't help but wonder if its something on the psu section overheating and burning out due to poor heat dissipation or the components they used are rated with not enough extra headroom...


Different story, when I worked as an AV Tech many years ago, we use to get a certain brand / model of amplifier that always randomly burned the output transistors out...upgraded all the outputs one step higher and renewed the heatsink compound - no more problems...


----------



## tibimakai

Or, they are using some cheaper components, that fail prematurely. Like Samsung TV capacitors, a few years ago.


----------



## Darrell Money

Dustin Kirk said:


> Hey Everyone,
> I am a new owner of a refurbished Epson 5040ube purchased directly from Epson - I couldn't pass up the deal. I replaced an Epson 8350 that I used for many years. I was pretty disappointed to find out that the 5040 won't "just work" with a Xbox one X for both streaming and gaming using 4k/HDR. That said, part of me wants to just keep my standard Xbox and my current receiver and let the 5040 use 4k enhancement for "4k" video and gaming.
> 
> Here's my old setup:
> 
> Epson 8350 Projector
> Original Xbox One
> Pioneer VSX-1019AH AV Receiver.
> 
> My plan was to buy a 4K capable receiver and a Xbox One X on Black Friday so that I could finally enjoy 4K/HDr with my fancy new projector. Now I am thinking I should just keep my existing setup and enjoy the upscaling instead. I would LOVE to get everything I can out of this new projector, out of the box it looks pretty great upscaling 1080P. Hell, it's almost too bright in a dark room!
> 
> I do know there is the option of a HDfury scaler that fools the projector into thinking the stream from the Xbox is 4k/HDR10 at 60hz, I might go that option if I want to spend even more money.
> 
> Please be kind if I have some terminology wrong or if I don't know what I am talking about. I'd ultimately like to know if I should spend the money on a new Xbox/Receiver with a HD fury scaler, or should I just let the projector work with the 1080p signal I have now?


I have an Xbox One S connected to my 5040. IMO, you'll have a hard time going back to 1080p SDR content. Probably miss more the color gamut and dynamic range, than pure resolution. I highly prefer 4K discs, but the Xbox One S works pretty well for streaming too. I wouldn't suggest an HDfury; it's $200 and I would think the money is better spent towards an upgrade in your chain to make your system work the way you want. 

The issue is the input to the PJ is limited to 10Gbps which means you'll need to feed it 24hz content for the best picture (12bit 4:2:2 color and HDR). The Xbox is capable of doing this with some content (4k discs, Amazon prime, and Disney+), but some apps will play at 60hz (Netflix, Vudu) and the picture quality is downgraded (8-bit, 4:2:0 color, SDR) at the higher refresh rate.


----------



## buz

MississippiMan said:


> I know that really, only your situation matters to you...as it should. I just advise not to dismiss the 5050 out of hand as it is going to be a very solid (...and more affordable...) choice than JVC...or SONY. And that is coming from someone who fawns on using a JVC whenever the budget allows.


Well, I took a look back through this stream of posts, and it was about a year and a half after the first 5040 came out when I saw someone worrying about the power supply problems. The 5050 has only been out 8 months. We really don't know if epson has delivered a solid unit. Also, the 5050 may be more affordable than the JVC or Sony, they aren't if you have to buy a new epson after 2 years. I have had good luck with epson in the past though. I used my 3020 for quite a while before I upgraded to the 5040, and I'll put that back up until I figure out what way I will go. Prior to the Epson 3020, I had a Vidikron Model 60 for quite a few years, they don't seem to be in business anymore.

buz


----------



## buz

tibimakai said:


> Buz, sorry to hear what is happening with your projector. I hope they will take care of you, but if they don't, than consider selling that pj to me and maybe I can find out, what is wrong with these pjs.


I will be calling Epson next week as I have it off work. If I don't get them to replace it, I'll consider selling you the unit. It is also possible, I might take a crack at it. Although I am only a software engineer, I do have some hardware experience. I do own a multimeter, o-scope, and a nice weller solder station. I spent my summer repairing some issues on about a half dozen of my '80s synthesizers that needed attention. (I only broke 1 more than when I started working on it :frown

buz


----------



## momofx

buz said:


> I will be calling Epson next week as I have it off work. If I don't get them to replace it, I'll consider selling you the unit. It is also possible, I might take a crack at it. Although I am only a software engineer, I do have some hardware experience. I do own a multimeter, o-scope, and a nice weller solder station. I spent my summer repairing some issues on about a half dozen of my '80s synthesizers that needed attention.* (I only broke 1 more than when I started working on it :frown*
> 
> buz





I laughed at your last comment  I did Electronics Eng. many years ago and Electronics is my hobby and life  I think we all have did that lol but hey what happens on the workbench stays on the workbench


----------



## tibimakai

That would be nice, if you could look at it. It would be nice, if we can find out, what's wrong with these pjs.


----------



## Nightwing-DG

tibimakai said:


> Or, they are using some cheaper components, that fail prematurely. Like Samsung TV capacitors, a few years ago.


Ha! I was affected by that but my warranty was way past expiration. Did some research and had to replace the capacitor myself and got it working thankfully.


----------



## tibimakai

I have fixed a lot of these.


----------



## aili

*Epson 5040 died, doesnt turn on, how to fix, out of warranty?*

Hi, my epson 5040ub died, i know its a well known issue.
It just doesnt turn on, and its out of warranty.

Wasnt able to find any topic regarding this issue, what exactly is dying on the psu? heres the picture of it.
How to fix it, if youre out of warranty?

Any help will be appreciated.


----------



## sddp

Juiced46 said:


> Its called an HD Fury Linker. There may be something newer and cheaper now. Im not sure. I have been using the Linker for 2 years.




I've seen tons of threads about the linker, etc. So Epson sells this as a HDR unit, but still need to buy a 3rd party device to make the HDR work?


----------



## avtoronto

sddp said:


> I've seen tons of threads about the linker, etc. So Epson sells this as a HDR unit, but still need to buy a 3rd party device to make the HDR work?


As stated, you can do HDR at 24Hz without any problem with this projector.


----------



## Juiced46

sddp said:


> I've seen tons of threads about the linker, etc. So Epson sells this as a HDR unit, but still need to buy a 3rd party device to make the HDR work?


HDR will work in 4k/24hz without 3rd party hardware. There is a limitation due to the bandwidth of the HDMI in the projector. This subject has been covered 3490583409840358 times in this thread. 

What will not work is content that is 4k/60hz 10/12 bit such ass Xbox One X games, Netflix 4k and any other source that outputs content at 4k/60hz 10/12bit.

The Linker comes in to "trick" the projector and convert it to 4K/60hz 8 bit which the projector can handle.


----------



## sddp

Juiced46 said:


> HDR will work in 4k/24hz without 3rd party hardware. There is a limitation due to the bandwidth of the HDMI in the projector. This subject has been covered 3490583409840358 times in this thread.
> 
> What will not work is content that is 4k/60hz 10/12 bit such ass Xbox One X games, Netflix 4k and any other source that outputs content at 4k/60hz 10/12bit.
> 
> The Linker comes in to "trick" the projector and convert it to 4K/60hz 8 bit which the projector can handle.




Thanks!


So is there a huge significant difference going from 4k/24hz to using a linker 4K/60hz 8 bit? or just subtle difference?
I use my XBOX One X for gaming and 4K movies on a 150"


----------



## Juiced46

sddp said:


> Thanks!
> 
> 
> So is there a huge significant difference going from 4k/24hz to using a linker 4K/60hz 8 bit? or just subtle difference?
> I use my XBOX One X for gaming and 4K movies on a 150"


So, first off, you will never game @ 4k/24hz. Since you have an Xbox One X, your Blu Ray player on the console and Amazon prime will do 4k/24hz HDR without a Linker. This is the way movies are supposed to be viewed at. 

If you want to game in HDR, it NEEDS to be 4k/60hz. This is where the Linker comes in to play. Yes, there is a significant difference when you go to HDR @ 4k/60hz even @ 8 bit. VS non HDR and 1080p or upscaled 4k that you are getting now. 

The most important thing is, you need to have HDR dialed in correctly or it will look terrible. There are many convos with links and pictures and spreadsheets in this thread on dialing in HDR. If you try to use HDR and factory present settings, you are leaving alot on the table. 

The downside to 8bit HDR is you will see some banding at times. Its not terrible, but you will get it from time to time.

But right now, with no Linker, you should be able to do Blu Ray and Amazon Prime in HDR if you want to test it out 
If you do some searching in this thread, I have posted NON HDR vs HDR clips from my Xbox One X also.


----------



## mraub

I use an Apple TV which allows you to force 4k/24hz output. Netflix 4K looks fine, though I have no idea how the ATV makes the conversion. Of course, this won't help with gaming.


----------



## mraub

*Logitech Harmony Programming Question*

Right now I have the Lens 1 and Lens 2 buttons on a Harmony remote programmed to change aspect ratios between 1.85 and 2.35. Now that the streaming services have started using a 2:1 aspect ratio for a lot of their new content I'd like to have a 2:1 button on the Harmony as well. Since I have already used my 2 hard button clones for the other two aspect ratios I'm not sure how to do this. Any suggestions?

Thanks.


----------



## gene4ht

mraub said:


> Right now I have the Lens 1 and Lens 2 buttons on a Harmony remote programmed to change aspect ratios between 1.85 and 2.35. Now that the streaming services have started using a 2:1 aspect ratio for a lot of their new content I'd like to have a 2:1 button on the Harmony as well. Since I have already used my 2 hard button clones for the other two aspect ratios I'm not sure how to do this. Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks.


In addition to posting in the 5040/5050 projector threads, you may receive better/more responses in your particular Harmony model thread.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/93-remote-control-area/


----------



## BiggNewt

avtoronto said:


> The new firmware is also available on the Epson US site.


I've searched on the US website and can not find the firmware. Do you have a link? 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## TeslaMS

momofx said:


> Well I'm kinda confused now lol - someone tried the Samsung and Epson on Amazon and said the opposite... maybe I will try both and also what noob posted 🙂




I am using Samsung that I bought years ago... looks good to me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TeslaMS

My setup is as follows:

4K source > AVR (not HDCP2.2 compliant) > 40’ HDMI “high speed” cable > HDMI2 input on PJ

The above works and displays “1080p”

4K source > AVR (not HDCP2.2 compliant) > 40’ HDMI “high speed” cable > HDCP2.2 input on PJ

The above doesn’t work and shows black screen 

I am still trying to figure out if the obstruction to 4K is the AVR or the cable.

Someone recommended I plug my 4K stick directly into the PJ and neither input produced picture.

What should I do?





lazlovision said:


> HDCP itself is content protection and not related to quality. This is likely a compatibility issue with your cable or bluray player as the projector supports 2.2 (on the correct port). (Don't confuse HDMI versions with HDCP).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wikipedia article showing what each connection can support. Technically it can do 4K, but you'd want to use HDMI 2.0 (especially for sources with HDCP2.X copy protection)







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TeslaMS

Duplicate


----------



## TeslaMS

Duplicate


----------



## lazlovision

TeslaMS said:


> My setup is as follows:
> 
> 4K source > AVR (not HDCP2.2 compliant) > 40’ HDMI “high speed” cable > HDMI2 input on PJ
> 
> The above works and displays “1080p”
> 
> 4K source > AVR (not HDCP2.2 compliant) > 40’ HDMI “high speed” cable > HDCP2.2 input on PJ
> 
> The above doesn’t work and shows black screen
> 
> I am still trying to figure out if the obstruction to 4K is the AVR or the cable.
> 
> Someone recommended I plug my 4K stick directly into the PJ and neither input produced picture.
> 
> What should I do?


No need for 3 quotes  

Realistically it's likely your AVR is the problem. Easiest way to check is source straight to projector's 1st port that's compatible with HDCP 2.2.

If you need your AVR for sound and don't want to upgrade you can look at HDFURY Vertex which will split the signal and send audio via a second HDMI to your AVR while the video signal goes straight to your projector. Takes some tinkering but it works (it's what I use myself as I'm waiting to upgrade my AV pre-processor). 

Hope that helps.


----------



## TeslaMS

Thanks tried to correct the duplicates was an accident.

I sourced it straight using both ports and nothing came on.





lazlovision said:


> No need for 3 quotes
> 
> 
> 
> Realistically it's likely your AVR is the problem. Easiest way to check is source straight to projector's 1st port that's compatible with HDCP 2.2.
> 
> 
> 
> If you need your AVR for sound and don't want to upgrade you can look at HDFURY Vertex which will split the signal and send audio via a second HDMI to your AVR while the video signal goes straight to your projector. Takes some tinkering but it works (it's what I use myself as I'm waiting to upgrade my AV pre-processor).
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lazlovision

Tried swapping out the cable? And what is the source? Apple TV/Fire Stick/Nvidia Shield etc? You've confirmed it outputs 4k to another device like a TV?


----------



## sleepingatsea

For those watching 1080p content (bluray), are you using your UHD player at 4k output or running 1080p output and using the Epson 4k enhancement? I have both the Panny UB820 and Oppo 103 and despite trying to do some comparisons I'm not sure which is giving sharper results. Opinions?


----------



## Archaea

Brettmckinney said:


> For those watching 1080p content (bluray), are you using your UHD player at 4k output or running 1080p output and using the Epson 4k enhancement? I have both the Panny UB820 and Oppo 103 and despite trying to do some comparisons I'm not sure which is giving sharper results. Opinions?


I bought the panasonic UB420 on a BF deal (same hardware as your UB820 (sans Dolby Vision and Analog audio out) and two copies of The Great Wall and put one 4k UHD disk in it and the other 4k disk in my $100 LG UP870. I spent some time today comparing the two watching through basically the whole movie and switching back and forth as fast as I could push DVD or Bluray on my AVR and the signal could lock in. I couldn't tell the difference. I called my 8 year old daughter down. She couldn't either. I then threw in both blurays, and it still was so close I’m not sure I could tell the difference between both upscalers. So the upscaling to 4k concern is off the table. Either my LG is good or this Panasonic is overrated. 

As far as 4k disks vs 1080p disks upscaled in the 5040UB - honestly Ive preferred the 1080p disks upscaled because you aren't fighting with HDR black levels, and off colors. The only reason I’d want 4k with this projector is when the bluray disk doesn't have Atmospheric audio. I don't think 4k vs 1080p makes a significant difference to my eyes (40 years old, but 20/20 vision). 

Can anyone point me to something the HD Optimizer clearly excels in on the panasonic? Side by side on the Greatest Showman and The Great Wall, Im not yet seeing why this Panasonic player gets so much praise?


----------



## tibimakai

Firmware page:
https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## inspector

Archaea said:


> I bought the panasonic UB420 on a BF deal (same hardware as your UB820 (sans Dolby Vision and Analog audio out) and two copies of The Great Wall and put one 4k UHD disk in it and the other 4k disk in my $100 LG UP870. I spent some time today comparing the two watching through basically the whole movie and switching back and forth as fast as I could push DVD or Bluray on my AVR and the signal could lock in. I couldn't tell the difference. I called my 8 year old daughter down. She couldn't either. I then threw in both blurays, and it still was so close I’m not sure I could tell the difference between both upscalers. So the upscaling to 4k concern is off the table. Either my LG is good or this Panasonic is overrated.
> 
> As far as 4k disks vs 1080p disks upscaled in the 5040UB - honestly Ive preferred the 1080p disks upscaled because you aren't fighting with HDR black levels, and off colors. The only reason I’d want 4k with this projector is when the bluray disk doesn't have Atmospheric audio. I don't think 4k vs 1080p makes a significant difference to my eyes (40 years old, but 20/20 vision).
> 
> Can anyone point me to something the HD Optimizer clearly excels in on the panasonic? Side by side on the Greatest Showman and The Great Wall, Im not yet seeing why this Panasonic player gets so much praise?



If you go back some posts, another poster gave his settings for BD and UHD, both in NATURAL. I just watched FANTASTIC BEASTS in UHD and compared it with the BD upscaled to 4K...the UHD was much better looking all around.


----------



## TeslaMS

I plugged a FS4K directly into the back of each port, neither showed anything.

I do not have another 4K display only 1080P displays to test. 

I emailed HDFury tech support and they are saying a Vertex would work and I can attach an auto switch to allow more sources. Thoughts? 

QUOTE=lazlovision;58895878]Tried swapping out the cable? And what is the source? Apple TV/Fire Stick/Nvidia Shield etc? You've confirmed it outputs 4k to another device like a TV?[/QUOTE]






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## TeslaMS

Archaea said:


> I bought the panasonic UB420 on a BF deal (same hardware as your UB820 (sans Dolby Vision and Analog audio out) and two copies of The Great Wall and put one 4k UHD disk in it and the other 4k disk in my $100 LG UP870. I spent some time today comparing the two watching through basically the whole movie and switching back and forth as fast as I could push DVD or Bluray on my AVR and the signal could lock in. I couldn't tell the difference. I called my 8 year old daughter down. She couldn't either. I then threw in both blurays, and it still was so close I’m not sure I could tell the difference between both upscalers. So the upscaling to 4k concern is off the table. Either my LG is good or this Panasonic is overrated.
> 
> As far as 4k disks vs 1080p disks upscaled in the 5040UB - honestly Ive preferred the 1080p disks upscaled because you aren't fighting with HDR black levels, and off colors. The only reason I’d want 4k with this projector is when the bluray disk doesn't have Atmospheric audio. I don't think 4k vs 1080p makes a significant difference to my eyes (40 years old, but 20/20 vision).
> 
> Can anyone point me to something the HD Optimizer clearly excels in on the panasonic? Side by side on the Greatest Showman and The Great Wall, Im not yet seeing why this Panasonic player gets so much praise?



My AVR (Denon 4520ci) also does upconverting, in addition to my upconverting Sony BDP.

Do you know if it is better to leave the AVR upconverting off or let both devices upconverting? 





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

Archaea said:


> I bought the panasonic UB420 on a BF deal (same hardware as your UB820 (sans Dolby Vision and Analog audio out) and two copies of The Great Wall and put one 4k UHD disk in it and the other 4k disk in my $100 LG UP870. I spent some time today comparing the two watching through basically the whole movie and switching back and forth as fast as I could push DVD or Bluray on my AVR and the signal could lock in. I couldn't tell the difference. I called my 8 year old daughter down. She couldn't either. I then threw in both blurays, and it still was so close I’m not sure I could tell the difference between both upscalers. So the upscaling to 4k concern is off the table. Either my LG is good or this Panasonic is overrated.


The Great Wall is a bright, colourful movie that doesn’t need much help from the player. The Panasonic in its default settings should not be any different than any other player.

The biggest advantage of the Panasonic is its HDR Optimizer and Dynamic Range Adjustments that can make a big difference with more “difficult” HDR movies. To benefit from it you need to set (as a minimum) your display type to Projector, and turn on HDR Optomizer.


----------



## Archaea

TeslaMS said:


> My AVR (Denon 4520ci) also does upconverting, in addition to my upconverting Sony BDP.
> 
> Do you know if it is better to leave the AVR upconverting off or let both devices upconverting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




The upscaler in the 420/820/900 will be better than your Denon and better than your TV/Projector. Just use the Panasonic one and turn the others off.


----------



## lazlovision

TeslaMS said:


> I plugged a FS4K directly into the back of each port, neither showed anything.
> 
> I do not have another 4K display only 1080P displays to test.
> 
> I emailed HDFury tech support and they are saying a Vertex would work and I can attach an auto switch to allow more sources. Thoughts?


The first hurdle to clear is getting a 4K signal to display so you can eliminate that as a problem. Next would be eliminating the cable as the problem (though it shouldn't matter unless you're using really bad cables). 

The fact that directly plugging the device didn't show an image is troubling. It could be that it doesn't automatically switch it's display output settings to something compatible with the projector. You could try setting the output to 1080p first, then directly connect it and see if that works, then if it does work try increasing the resolution to 4K. It might try the new resolution, wait for you to confirm it (but if you can't see it you can't confirm) then go back to 1080p. That is if it works at all. 

As for a HDFury device, that's just a stopgap measure if you don't want to replace your AVR. Not sure which you have, but it might make more sense to do that. My case is a bit special as I use XLR for everything so I need a special pre-pro and replacing it would be $4500 USD for the most comparable Marantz model  

So try to get your devices actually showing an image first then figure out the rest.


----------



## avtoronto

BiggNewt said:


> I've searched on the US website and can not find the firmware. Do you have a link?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805??...1671&cjevent=4941193212d311ea83b901090a1c0e10


----------



## marco1975

did epson fix the high-fan speed and black screen issue at the start up of the projector?


----------



## inspector

Does anyone know what FW 1.14 adds or fixes?


----------



## gene4ht

marco1975 said:


> did epson fix the high-fan speed and black screen issue at the start up of the projector?


It’s extremely puzzling and unfortunate that Epson’s corporate leadership elects to be non-communicative and transparent relative to their product failures...rather just implements their warranty policy of product exchanges.

In answer to your questions, (1) the power failure issue has never been formally acknowledged as a failure and (2) the high speed fan at start up has been deemed as “Normal” with no reasonable or plausible explanation of why this occurs...why cool a cold lamp??? In any case, there was a posting in this thread that suggested an Epson employee/representative indicated that the PSU has been fixed...but this was anecdotal and not a formal public statement issued by Epson officials.


----------



## Archaea

I upgraded to 1.14 firmware, using a 1GB fat16 formatted flash drive. 

I couldn't tell a difference post update.

I did confirm it says the newest version now under info. It ends in 114 now instead of 113. 

Wish I knew what it did?!?


----------



## gene4ht

Archaea said:


> I upgraded to 1.14 firmware, using a 1GB fat16 formatted flash drive.
> 
> I couldn't tell a difference post update.
> 
> I did confirm it says the newest version now under info. It ends in 114 now instead of 113.
> 
> *Wish I knew what it did?*!?


Overall a decent projector....communication...not so much!


----------



## Juboy

It's so stupid. These companies presumably spend large sums of money updating the firmware, creating the files, uploading them, updating the websites and - presumably - the newer firmware does actually do something/improve the products...


...and then nobody downloads them or updates their machines because they have no idea what the changes will be and/or whether or not it'll break their unit.


All of which could be avoided by a small paragraph on the website that tells people what the update brings.


----------



## gene4ht

Juboy said:


> It's so stupid. These companies presumably spend large sums of money updating the firmware, creating the files, uploading them, updating the websites and - presumably - the newer firmware does actually do something/improve the products...
> 
> 
> ...and then nobody downloads them or updates their machines because they have no idea what the changes will be and/or whether or not it'll break their unit.
> 
> 
> All of which could be avoided by a small paragraph on the website that tells people what the update brings.


Epson’s lack of communication and transparency is obviously a conscience corporate decision that runs counter to the direction of many other corporate entities. In today’s global marketplace, the automotive recalls lead the way in this regard. Closer to home with respect to the consumer electronics industry, Onkyo’s recent “public” ownership of its HDMI board failures is a prime example of corporate responsibility. And as you suggest, providing a simple “change log” for firmware updates as many companies do would go a long way in establishing consumer confidence. Epson’s leadership apparently believe otherwise.


----------



## mudfrog

When I calibrated my 5040UB using the WOW disc, I did so using Bright Cinema for HDR content and Natural for SDR content. Obviously I was guessing at HDR as I have no idea how to calibrate for that. Does everyone use one input for both HDR and SDR or separate ones?


Also, when watching HDR content, the whites (highlights) seem to be blown out. I'm sure this is due to the HDR not being properly calibrated. Can you copy Bright Cinema so you can have an HDR version that can be visually calibrated using HDR content then have an SDR version for non HDR content that is calibrated with the calibration disc?


----------



## jesped2

Sooo... nobody knows what's new in Firmware 114? I just updated from 111.


----------



## inspector

I’m glad you took the leap for all of us chickens.


----------



## DavidinGA

jesped2 said:


> Sooo... nobody knows what's new in Firmware 114? I just updated from 111.


Nope...someday they'll tell us I hope

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Just talked to William at Epson, and he says I'll be receiving a phone call today from Epson, hopefully, informing me what firm ware 1.14 does/fixes...fingers crossed.


----------



## Morphx2

mudfrog said:


> When I calibrated my 5040UB using the WOW disc, I did so using Bright Cinema for HDR content and Natural for SDR content. Obviously I was guessing at HDR as I have no idea how to calibrate for that. Does everyone use one input for both HDR and SDR or separate ones?
> 
> 
> Also, when watching HDR content, the whites (highlights) seem to be blown out. I'm sure this is due to the HDR not being properly calibrated. Can you copy Bright Cinema so you can have an HDR version that can be visually calibrated using HDR content then have an SDR version for non HDR content that is calibrated with the calibration disc?


I use custom bright cinema and do auto I think for both. I mainly use SDR for it, but HDR comes out just OK

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## JOjr

inspector said:


> Just talked to William at Epson, and he says I'll be receiving a phone call today from Epson, hopefully, informing me what firm ware 1.14 does/fixes...fingers crossed.


I'm curious as well on what the update does  , i plan on updating hopefully later this afternoon after work


----------



## gigging

Hello, 
Trying to figure out the process for doing multiple firmware updates. I need to do 3 updates so do I download one at a time on to my usb drive and do the update or will the final update catch you up to where you need to be? Sorry if this is a stupid question but all my other devices are set to automatically update and I’ve never had to do a usb update before. Thank you in advance


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jt7272

gigging said:


> Hello,
> Trying to figure out the process for doing multiple firmware updates. I need to do 3 updates so do I download one at a time on to my usb drive and do the update or will the final update catch you up to where you need to be? Sorry if this is a stupid question but all my other devices are set to automatically update and Iâ€™️ve never had to do a usb update before. Thank you in advance
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You can just skip to the recent update. Please note that sometimes the update will fail if the projector doesn't like your USB drive. I have to try 4 different USB drives and all failed. I only had success with a Micro-SD card and USB adapter.


----------



## Tweakophyte

Does upgrading mess with your settings in any way?
Has anyone found the release notes for 1.14?

Thanks,


----------



## jt7272

Tweakophyte said:


> Does upgrading mess with your settings in any way?
> Has anyone found the release notes for 1.14?
> 
> Thanks,


No, at least not if you are coming from 1.12 or later (there are HDR tweaks in 1.11 and 1.12).
No


----------



## HTX^2steve

Oledurt said:


> can't get lens memory to work right. I have a new cinemascope widescreen. I have saved the lens setting for 16x9 perfectly accurate, but when I zoom out and save the lens memory for the 2.40.1 aspect ratio it does not accurately recall that position. For example, I hit lens 2 it moves to the 16x9 setting perfectly. I hit lens 1 it goes back to widescreen setting however it is off from the original saved setting.
> 
> i have saved, readjusted, and re saved countless times, no matter what I do it will not accurately save that zoomed out wide lens position accurately.
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-153.html#post58895060


----------



## Chad T

I got a 5040ub and checked the firmware. Is it normal for just the "Main" to be the only one that indicates 1.14? The second listed item shows 1.11. Thanks.


----------



## avtoronto

Tweakophyte said:


> Does upgrading mess with your settings in any way?
> Has anyone found the release notes for 1.14?
> 
> Thanks,


Check back a page or so, somebody posted them.


----------



## inspector

Just updated mine to 1.14. I'll watch it tonight to see how it works out.


----------



## ixion

I just updated to 1.14, it went smoothly, no issues so far. If I see anything strange, I'll report back.


----------



## ixion

Chad T said:


> I got a 5040ub and checked the firmware. Is it normal for just the "Main" to be the only one that indicates 1.14? The second listed item shows 1.11. Thanks.


Yes, that's normal. The "video" firmware will show 1.11.


----------



## MLP78

*Need help! Problem with Epson 5040ub displaying vertical yellow lines*

This is my first post so I want to thank you for your time and expertise. If this specific issue has been addressed already then I apologize but I haven’t seen it.

I have an Epson 5040ub that suddenly began displaying 3 vertical yellow lines across the picture. The lines are visible no matter what is being displayed. I’ve disconnected all inputs and the lines are there including on the menu screen.

I’ve torn into it and removed the main board and used compressed air to dust off the lenses etc., so in the process have disconnected and reconnected the LCD wires with no apparent effect. 

The projector works just fine except for the lines. Any help or ideas on what to do next would be really appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## skylarlove1999

MLP78 said:


> This is my first post so I want to thank you for your time and expertise. If this specific issue has been addressed already then I apologize but I haven’t seen it.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Epson 5040ub that suddenly began displaying 3 vertical yellow lines across the picture. The lines are visible no matter what is being displayed. I’ve disconnected all inputs and the lines are there including on the menu screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I’ve torn into it and removed the main board and used compressed air to dust off the lenses etc., so in the process have disconnected and reconnected the LCD wires with no apparent effect.
> 
> 
> 
> The projector works just fine except for the lines. Any help or ideas on what to do next would be really appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


A solid line of one color usually indicates a failure of either image processor, or an LCD panel. In this case, the Yellow. In other words, that line is either being told to stay full on by the processor or the affected pixels on that panel have failed full on. It wouldn't be case of a bad connection, because that would cause the affected area to be DARK, or OFF, not ON. I would suspect the image processor before I'd attribute this to the panel. Would have to factory serviced and repaired . Cost wise might not be worth fixing . I hope it is still under warranty. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Daverey06

Hello all, I am new to AVS Forums and this is my first post so I apologize for my lack of knowledge on everything 4K and HDR related. 
I was wondering for any of you that happen to have a Panasonic DP-UB820 paired with an Epson 5040UB, how you get the best picture possible out of that combo. In particular what settings do I need to adjust to get the best HDR colors? 
You can assume my projector and 4K Blu-ray player are on their factory settings. I would be so appreciative if someone could recommend everything that needs adjusted to get stellar picture and HDR colors. Thanks so much for any help you can provide.


----------



## rekbones

skylarlove1999 said:


> A solid line of one color usually indicates a failure of either image processor, or an LCD panel. In this case, the Yellow. In other words, that line is either being told to stay full on by the processor or the affected pixels on that panel have failed full on. It wouldn't be case of a bad connection, because that would cause the affected area to be DARK, or OFF, not ON. I would suspect the image processor before I'd attribute this to the panel. Would have to factory serviced and repaired . Cost wise might not be worth fixing . I hope it is still under warranty.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Not quite right but on the right track. Yellow is a mix or red and green so on a white background means it is missing blue. You have generally eliminated a poor oxidized connection but still could be a connector problem on the blue panel. If out of warranty (you voided it be disassembly anyway) it could be expensive because either its in the main board or the panel it self. Try displaying full screen one color at a time especially blue may help in determining main board or panel.


----------



## inspector

Watched my first movie after installing 1.14 and my settings were off, I had to redo them. Don't remember that happening when I went from, what ever it came with, to 1.11. I use NATURAL for color BD/SD and NATURAL for UHD (both with different settings). B&W CINEMA for B&W BD/SD.


----------



## gene4ht

inspector said:


> Watched my first movie after installing 1.14 and my settings were off, I had to redo them. Don't remember that happening when I went from, what ever it came with, to 1.11. I use NATURAL for color BD/SD and NATURAL for UHD (both with different settings). B&W CINEMA for B&W BD/SD.


Cudos for having obtaining a response from Epson for their recent firmware update. However, in today’s marketplace, this information and more is typically openly, publicly, and freely published/provided...not having the consumer wonder/inquire and having to ask for it. Below are two publicly available examples illustrating how far Epson is behind the curve.

https://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-udp-203/blu-ray-UDP-20x-Firmware.aspx

https://www.intl.onkyo.com/support/firmware/tx-rz1100.html


----------



## inspector

I remember when I had my HDDVD player and had accumulated around 15 discs with firm ware updates and they told exactly what they did, just like your examples. I wonder why Epson feels it doesn't have/want to?


----------



## gene4ht

inspector said:


> I remember when I had my HDDVD player and had accumulated around 15 discs with firm ware updates and they told exactly what they did, just like your examples. I wonder why Epson feels it doesn't have/want to?


I suspect Epson’s current “well established” corporate leadership abides by older cultural norms. We’ll likely see a positive change when the next generation of leadership materializes.


----------



## don851

Thanks for mentioning this. I was stumped after trying a few times. Tried using Micro SD with adapter and it worked.



jt7272 said:


> You can just skip to the recent update. Please note that sometimes the update will fail if the projector doesn't like your USB drive. I have to try 4 different USB drives and all failed. I only had success with a Micro-SD card and USB adapter.


----------



## Archaea

Anyone tried the Mandalorian on Disney + with the Amazon 4k firestick with HDR?

It’s so washed out its horrible at default settings. HarperVision in SDR mode on the 5040UB made it passible, but...

HDR is really screwing up my enjoyment of my theater. I wish it would just die and lose all support.

In the first episode scene where the mandalorian is getting his new armor forged and the screen is flashing with each forge impact, it was painful to watch. The scene was so dark as to be almost unviewable, but with each hammerstrike the screen would flash so bright it hurt. I asked my family if that scene was painful. The responses ranged from, yes that was painful to it made me take really long blinks.

Stupid.

Not good.

Ughhhhh.


After that first episode I switched the Epson to SDR and recalled from the Epson’s memory Daves HarperVision setting which made the second episode passible - but still way too dark. At least not washed out, and not blinding on dynamically bright scenes.

How are you guys watching this show on your 5040UB? 4K? 1080p? What streaming device? Somethings got to be better than this?!?

No Atmos either on the Amazon 4k firestick with Disney +

Unless I can get this fixed I’d rather just watch it upstairs on the 42”, 10 year old TV in the living room. And thats a silly reality — all due to HDR’s broken or at least "non-standard" implementation across so many devices...


----------



## YoMaMa84

inspector said:


> Whoa! Never heard of anyone doing that.


I meant if i'm watching something and pause it to go do something for like an hour or 2. Or if i'm listening to music, i'll have the projector on when i could just turn it off.


----------



## Dominic Chan

inspector said:


> Whoa! Never heard of anyone doing that.





YoMaMa84 said:


> I meant if i'm watching something and pause it to go do something for like an hour or 2. Or if i'm listening to music, i'll have the projector on when i could just turn it off.


I don’t turn it off either, if I plan to use it again in an hour or two. I’d rather minimize the on/off cycles than a few hours of lamp time.


----------



## gene4ht

Dominic Chan said:


> I don’t turn it off either, if I plan to use it again in an hour or two. I’d rather minimize the on/off cycles than a few hours of lamp time.


Just curious...I know you’ve had an Epson in the past, but why continue to visit this thread when you’ve moved on to JVC?


----------



## WynsWrld98

roland6465 said:


> This. I gave up on my Roku once Prime finally fixed their Apple app. Set to SDR/24 with rate and range set to match, and go. My Sony has the same HDMI limitation, and no banding, ever. Once in a while for foreign material shot at 50Hz, you have to go in and set it to 25, which takes all of 30 seconds, but otherwise, a great match if you can't do HDR/60.


Why set to SDR/24 vs HDR/24? Have you tried Disney+? Curious if getting 4K HDR Atmos with Disney+ on the Epson.


----------



## roland6465

WynsWrld98 said:


> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This. I gave up on my Roku once Prime finally fixed their Apple app. Set to SDR/24 with rate and range set to match, and go. My Sony has the same HDMI limitation, and no banding, ever. Once in a while for foreign material shot at 50Hz, you have to go in and set it to 25, which takes all of 30 seconds, but otherwise, a great match if you can't do HDR/60.
> 
> 
> 
> Why set to SDR/24 vs HDR/24? Have you tried Disney+? Curious if getting 4K HDR Atmos with Disney+ on the Epson.
Click to expand...

Because setting it to HDR/24 introduces “fake” HDR to SDR source material and menus. That’s why you set dynamic range to match. It keeps SDR material in SDR, and switches to HDR as needed.


----------



## JOjr

curious how everyone turns on their Projector and devices (xbox or shield). I've had odd issues with my 5040ub when turning it on lately where it spins fans for awhile and sometimes the lens will close after having the fans spin so high, sometimes i have to turn it off completely. On two occasions i saw the orange lamp light come on during the "boot up". I notice that if i turn on the xbox "delayed" while turning on the projector i get this behavior. If i turn on the xbox on first and let it boot up alone then turn on the projector it doesn't do this. I have my AVR boot up automatically with the Projector as well if that makes a difference. I had applied the new firmware (1.14) to see if that would help and at first i thought it did but it still does it. Anyone else have this issue?


----------



## gene4ht

JOjr said:


> curious how everyone turns on their Projector and devices (xbox or shield). I've had odd issues with my 5040ub when turning it on lately where it spins fans for awhile and sometimes the lens will close after having the fans spin so high, sometimes i have to turn it off completely. On two occasions i saw the orange lamp light come on during the "boot up". I notice that if i turn on the xbox "delayed" while turning on the projector i get this behavior. If i turn on the xbox on first and let it boot up alone then turn on the projector it doesn't do this. I have my AVR boot up automatically with the Projector as well if that makes a difference. I had applied the new firmware (1.14) to see if that would help and at first i thought it did but it still does it. Anyone else have this issue?


As you’ve seen in recent posts, these random, odd, behaviors have been experienced by many owners...going back years. To date, Epson has yet to publicly acknowledge any of these unusual behaviors nor do they provide a valid/plausible explanation when contacted at various levels of their technical support organization. Again, this is the reason I continue to post concern for Epson’s lack of consumer communication.


----------



## JOjr

gene4ht said:


> As you’ve seen in recent posts, these random, odd, behaviors have been experienced by many owners...going back years. To date, Epson has yet to publicly acknowledge any of these unusual behaviors nor do they provide a valid/plausible explanation when contacted at various levels of their technical support organization. Again, this is the reason I continue to post concern for Epson’s lack of consumer communication.


so this is the "norm" on these odd behaviors, and at that point should i push for a replacement or is this happening even on replacements? i wonder if the 5050 has these issues.


----------



## gene4ht

JOjr said:


> so this is the "norm" on these odd behaviors, and at that point should i push for a replacement or is this happening even on replacements? i wonder if the 5050 has these issues.


Owners of models preceding the 5040/6040 have repeatedly reported these odd behaviors...chief among them is the high speed fan at start up for a length of time for no apparent reason or purpose. Because this behavior has transcended multiple model generations, it could possibly be an original design anomaly and never corrected going forward...and thus “accepted” as an oddity but normal since there appears to have no known adverse performance effects. Owners of 5050/6050’s are invited to comment on their units. It would seem prudent to contact Epson support to understand if their position on these anomaly’s result in a more positive response. Good luck with your effort and pursuit!


----------



## Archaea

seplant said:


> Roku won't do 4K HDR directly on a 5040/6040. You'll need an HDFury Linker or similar to get 4K HDR with a Roku. I believe the Nvidia Shield can be set to provide 4K HDR directly to the 5040/6040.




Not true.
@Brettmckinney

Roku 4k stick lets you chose 4k 30hz SDR for streaming options. That fixed all my Mandalorian HDR issues (and other content HDR) that arose with my Amazon 4k stick that does not let you rid HDR.


----------



## Archaea

Transplanting my post from the local meets section to here - because the roku is a great match to the 5040’s 4K HDR 10Gbps shortcomings

——————


Roku 4k stick > Amazon 4K Firestick with my 5040UB projector because I can disable HDR and because it gives Dolby Atmos on Mandalorian on Disney +. (Roku is the only streamer with Dolby Atmos for Mandalorian at the time I write this)

Heres how that Roku 30hz SDR option reveals itself as compared to the default (horribly implemented) 4K HDR on our 5040UB.:


Amazon 4K Firestick - 4K HDR
Mandalorian 









No opportunity to chose 30 FPS, nor disable HDR on Firestick



















—————-
Roku 4K stick - 4K SDR









More display options on Roku. (Pick any option but the last one depending on your preferences.)


----------



## Archaea

Juboy said:


> With regards to HDR viewing, it's definitely possible and worthwhile with this PJ. I've got three different HDR settings saved and one of them works great with The Mandalorian, despite the limitations of the source itself.
> 
> 
> I'm able to view both the PJ image and my LG OLED TV image almost next to each other and while the PJ obviously doesn't match the TV, it does a very respectable job.




My 5040UB isn’t even close to OLED quality and the best HDR absent a Panasonic or Oppo 4k bluray player’s abilities that Ive used so far is Harpervision. I’m not really happy with anything HDR after tinkering with this projector for months. 


SDR with BT2020 is the answer I’m close to concluding. What am I missing? I’ve not seen anything where HDR looks better on than off when you can match the BT2020 color space for both. I’m curious to your preferences.


----------



## DavidinGA

Archaea said:


> My 5040UB isn’t even close to OLED quality and the best HDR absent a Panasonic or Oppo 4k bluray player’s abilities that Ive used so far is Harpervision. I’m not really happy with anything HDR after tinkering with this projector for months.
> 
> 
> SDR with BT2020 is the answer I’m close to concluding. What am I missing? I’ve not seen anything where HDR looks better on than off when you can match the BT2020 color space for both. I’m curious to your preferences.


MadVR will make you a believer in amazing HDR on your 5040.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Zoltrix

Archaea said:


> My 5040UB isn’t even close to OLED quality and the best HDR absent a Panasonic or Oppo 4k bluray player’s abilities that Ive used so far is Harpervision. I’m not really happy with anything HDR after tinkering with this projector for months.
> 
> 
> SDR with BT2020 is the answer I’m close to concluding. What am I missing? I’ve not seen anything where HDR looks better on than off when you can match the BT2020 color space for both. I’m curious to your preferences.


Yes I am starting to agree. Anything in HDR is so dark.


----------



## Zoltrix

DavidinGA said:


> MadVR will make you a believer in amazing HDR on your 5040.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


How easy is it to setup though? Any guides? I think a came across a guide that was like 10 pages long


----------



## Archaea

DavidinGA said:


> MadVR will make you a believer in amazing HDR on your 5040.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



I have madVR in my JRiver instance. It was setup by a professional and my 5040UB projector calibrated to it. Its not close to an OLED TV.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Archaea said:


> Not true.
> @Brettmckinney
> 
> Roku 4k stick lets you chose 4k 30hz SDR for streaming options. That fixed all my Mandalorian HDR issues (and other content HDR) that arose with my Amazon 4k stick that does not let you rid HDR.


Awesome, thanks for sharing this! Will definitely save me some coin vs the ATV - I currently have nothing in the Apple ecosystem so wasn't super keen on getting this.

I'm currently using Harpervision SDR conversion in the 5040 with my Panny 820 sending 4k HDR - these settings are looking awesome for 99% of content I've tried. So I could also try the 4k HDR 30hz on the Roku also correct?


----------



## Archaea

Brettmckinney said:


> Awesome, thanks for sharing this! Will definitely save me some coin vs the ATV - I currently have nothing in the Apple ecosystem so wasn't super keen on getting this.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently using Harpervision SDR conversion in the 5040 with my Panny 820 sending 4k HDR - these settings are looking awesome for 99% of content I've tried. So I could also try the 4k HDR 30hz on the Roku also correct?


Correct.
But don’t forget to try 4K 60hz SDR to compare. It simply strips the HDR. You’ll not need Harpervision then.

That 93% satisfied might nudge higher. 

The Disney+ Mandalorian forge scene is a great show to compare on.


----------



## ClayM325

Im getting a new streaming device for my 5040. From what ive read on here, the apple tv 4k will send the signal i need, without getting an hdfury, is that correct? What about the shield?


----------



## DavidinGA

Archaea said:


> I have madVR in my JRiver instance. It was setup by a professional and my 5040UB projector calibrated to it. Its not close to an OLED TV.


Sorry I was not implying your going to get oled like hdr on the pj via madVR. You will get hdr on the pj via madVR that is tremendously better than anything else though.

Compromises abound; hdr wins on the oled, but the oled isn't going to immerse you like a ridiculously massive screen will on the pj. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

Zoltrix said:


> How easy is it to setup though? Any guides? I think a came across a guide that was like 10 pages long


It's not horrible, but it takes a minute to setup... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Zoltrix

jamesyates said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I just bought an EPSON PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB with version software:
> 
> Main 840076648uwwv113
> Video2 7YL28RMV111
> 
> Do I need to upgrade?
> Thanks in advance.


Hi all,

Same question here. I've got the same version showing on my 8400. The latest firmware listed on the Epson page is 1.01 (http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp), which doesn't seem to align with whats installed...


----------



## MLP78

rekbones said:


> Not quite right but on the right track. Yellow is a mix or red and green so on a white background means it is missing blue. You have generally eliminated a poor oxidized connection but still could be a connector problem on the blue panel. If out of warranty (you voided it be disassembly anyway) it could be expensive because either its in the main board or the panel it self. Try displaying full screen one color at a time especially blue may help in determining main board or panel.


Thank you for your response. I messed around with the color settings and there appeared to be no change at all in the yellow lines. I then disconnected the blue LCD tape from the main board and the lines disappeared. Does this result point to a connectivity issue on the board or possibly in the blue LCD?


----------



## sleepingatsea

Zoltrix said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Same question here. I've got the same version showing on my 8400. The latest firmware listed on the Epson page is 1.01 (http://tech.epson.com.au/downloads/product.asp), which doesn't seem to align with whats installed...


If you go and select projector ->9300, then under 'Drivers & Downloads', select 'all', then right at the bottom you will see 1.14. I'm going to do mine tonight. A bit worried about my settings being messed up though!


----------



## rekbones

Just as guess it sounds like a driver issue in the main board. With the panel disconnected I think it should pass solid blue light. So disconnecting it points to something in the board stuck on. I am just guessing but I think LCD panels with no voltage connected are clear and with a voltage applied go opaque. Are you disconnecting it with a solid white background?


----------



## Zoltrix

Brettmckinney said:


> If you go and select projector ->9300, then under 'Drivers & Downloads', select 'all', then right at the bottom you will see 1.14. I'm going to do mine tonight. A bit worried about my settings being messed up though!


Ah helps if you look under the correct projector, I've got a 8300, not 8400 

Lets us know how you go with the update.


----------



## jamesyates

Zoltrix said:


> jamesyates said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I just bought an EPSON PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB with version software:
> 
> Main 840076648uwwv113
> Video2 7YL28RMV111
> 
> Do I need to upgrade?
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> I posted the above a while ago and it is still not resolved. Anyone know the answer? Many thanks.
Click to expand...


----------



## Danonano

Brettmckinney said:


> I'm still not happy with my streaming options for this projector. I have the Panny UB820 and a PS4 pro and I can either use the Panny for 1080p HDR or the PS4 pro for 4k no HDR.
> 
> I was thinking about picking up the Roku Premiere, does anyone use this and can confirm you can set 24hz for Netflix/Prime rather than 60hz?
> 
> https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/142467597344
> 
> Thanks!


I just picked up an Apple TV and I'm really impressed at the quality of 4K/SDR. I just set the AppleTV to 4K SDR, turn match frame rate on, and match dynamic range off. That way it will show in 4K if it can, but not show any of it in HDR. 

This is the best option I have found after alot of experimenting with other options for HDR and SDR. The only thing lacking is that the AppleTV Youtube app won't show content in 4K, so you need another solution for Youtube 4k, but for Netflix and Disney this is a good option.


----------



## shaan2010

Hello,

I had some basic questions. 

1. I have had this projector for about 3 years and it has original firmware. Do I need to upgrade if I am not having issues? If so, which version is most reliable?

2. Do you all see a noticeable difference between upscaled 1080P and 4K on this projector? I did not see a noticeable difference. For some reason the 4k picture seemed a bit dimmer/darker and a bit less vibrant than upscaled 1080P. Possibly needs picture adjustments or maybe something else? I ask because I have to make a decision between losing multi source video switching/pass through from an older non 4K upscaling AVR and using a device like HDFury or just keeping everything integrated/convenient using the AVR or UHD upscaling blu ray player. They both look good to me, but maybe my vision is going bad!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## txag09

Just got projector set up and the "Adjust Zoom" is not working but adjust lens shift does. I saw a post further back where they had the opposite problem. Is there a fix or do I just need to send this back in and get another one? Firmware is up to date.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Zoltrix said:


> Ah helps if you look under the correct projector, I've got a 8300, not 8400
> 
> Lets us know how you go with the update.


All went smoothly! I put the firmware on a 4gb Toshiba USB stick and with the power cable unplugged, pressed the power button and plugged it back in. Prob took 2mins or so to start blinking to show it was updating and then about 10mins later I checked it was back in standby. No dramas.

I did some quick checks on discs, 4K, 1080p & PS4 Pro and all my settings looked the same. I also checked a 3D disc (Avengers Endgame) and I'm not sure if this firmware did anything, or if it was just 'timing' but it looks incredible with no crosstalk at all. I'm sure there was more of it on my first watch. Keen to try some more discs just in case this did actually improve it!


----------



## gigging

Brettmckinney said:


> All went smoothly! I put the firmware on a 4gb Toshiba USB stick and with the power cable unplugged, pressed the power button and plugged it back in. Prob took 2mins or so to start blinking to show it was updating and then about 10mins later I checked it was back in standby. No dramas.
> 
> 
> 
> I did some quick checks on discs, 4K, 1080p & PS4 Pro and all my settings looked the same. I also checked a 3D disc (Avengers Endgame) and I'm not sure if this firmware did anything, or if it was just 'timing' but it looks incredible with no crosstalk at all. I'm sure there was more of it on my first watch. Keen to try some more discs just in case this did actually improve it!




I have been assuming my update failed. I tried a couple times, here’s what happens. I push in the power button and plug the unit in, instantly the orange led lights come on and the fan kicks in so I release the power button, about 2 seconds later the fan turns off and the orange lights turn off, the green power button is the only thing still on so I wait a few seconds and turn if off
Is there something I should be doing different?
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

shaan2010 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I had some basic questions.
> 
> 1. I have had this projector for about 3 years and it has original firmware. Do I need to upgrade if I am not having issues? If so, which version is most reliable?
> 
> 2. Do you all see a noticeable difference between upscaled 1080P and 4K on this projector? I did not see a noticeable difference. For some reason the 4k picture seemed a bit dimmer/darker and a bit less vibrant than upscaled 1080P. Possibly needs picture adjustments or maybe something else? I ask because I have to make a decision between losing multi source video switching/pass through from an older non 4K upscaling AVR and using a device like HDFury or just keeping everything integrated/convenient using the AVR or UHD upscaling blu ray player. They both look good to me, but maybe my vision is going bad!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I've had my 6040 for about 2 1/2 years too. I've tried all the setting that have been given out here and any 4K still looks lousy. Upscaling a BD to 4K looks great, so, I've decided to lay off any more 4K buying. I only own 12, but they were all on sale.


I would like to have it ISFed but they usually only do one setting and there are 7 color modes. Right now I have one for color BD/SD (Natural), one for B&W BD/SD (B&W Cinema) and one for UHD (Natural).


I'll just stick with BD for now...of course I have over 350 3Ders and that's what I really enjoy watching.


----------



## tlopes

Yesterday I installed my refurb 5040UB after upgrading from a 5010. Wow, much better picture quality and brightness! Also, my 5010 bulb was showing some age, but still I was surprised at the brightness. May even have to turn the brightness down when the room is full black even in ECO mode.

My question is in regard to the keystone setting. My projector is on an AV shelf that is mounted via drywall studs. Unfortunately this meant the projector had to be about 10" off center of screen. The projector is about 18 feet back and the screen is 120" with a black felt light absorbing border. After setting the zoom and lens shift, I was left with a slight trapezoid that was correctable with 2 units of keystone.

So I'm now left with picking the lesser of 2 evils: 1) Leave the keystone setting in place and know there may be some picture distortion or 2) Remove the keystone setting and project over the black felt boundary of the screen; effectively losing a small amount of video at the top/bottom right side.

What would you do in this scenario? I'm leaning toward option 2 since you can't see the over projection due to the thick black frame, but was hoping to hear other opinions.

Lastly, can someone please recommend a simple way for me to calibrate the color and picture quality for the 5040UB? I'm open to buying or downloading a disc for this as needed. Many thanks!


----------



## noob00224

tlopes said:


> Yesterday I installed my refurb 5040UB after upgrading from a 5010. Wow, much better picture quality and brightness! Also, my 5010 bulb was showing some age, but still I was surprised at the brightness. May even have to turn the brightness down when the room is full black even in ECO mode.
> 
> My question is in regard to the keystone setting. My projector is on an AV shelf that is mounted via drywall studs. Unfortunately this meant the projector had to be about 10" off center of screen. The projector is about 18 feet back and the screen is 120" with a black felt light absorbing border. After setting the zoom and lens shift, I was left with a slight trapezoid that was correctable with 2 units of keystone.
> 
> So I'm now left with picking the lesser of 2 evils: 1) Leave the keystone setting in place and know there may be some picture distortion or 2) Remove the keystone setting and project over the black felt boundary of the screen; effectively losing a small amount of video at the top/bottom right side.
> 
> What would you do in this scenario? I'm leaning toward option 2 since you can't see the over projection due to the thick black frame, but was hoping to hear other opinions.
> 
> Lastly, can someone please recommend a simple way for me to calibrate the color and picture quality for the 5040UB? I'm open to buying or downloading a disc for this as needed. Many thanks!


This model has vertical and horizontal lens shift.

According to the calculator, for an 120" screen from 18ft away, the vertical lens shift is up to 56" up or 56" down.
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## Chad T

tlopes said:


> Yesterday I installed my refurb 5040UB after upgrading from a 5010. Wow, much better picture quality and brightness! Also, my 5010 bulb was showing some age, but still I was surprised at the brightness. May even have to turn the brightness down when the room is full black even in ECO mode.
> 
> My question is in regard to the keystone setting. My projector is on an AV shelf that is mounted via drywall studs. Unfortunately this meant the projector had to be about 10" off center of screen. The projector is about 18 feet back and the screen is 120" with a black felt light absorbing border. After setting the zoom and lens shift, I was left with a slight trapezoid that was correctable with 2 units of keystone.
> 
> So I'm now left with picking the lesser of 2 evils: 1) Leave the keystone setting in place and know there may be some picture distortion or 2) Remove the keystone setting and project over the black felt boundary of the screen; effectively losing a small amount of video at the top/bottom right side.
> 
> What would you do in this scenario? I'm leaning toward option 2 since you can't see the over projection due to the thick black frame, but was hoping to hear other opinions.
> 
> Lastly, can someone please recommend a simple way for me to calibrate the color and picture quality for the 5040UB? I'm open to buying or downloading a disc for this as needed. Many thanks!


10" off center is not much. You should be fine with the lens shift controls. Make sure the projector is totally square to the screen.


----------



## Chad T

Do you let the 5040 or your UHD player upconvert 1080p Blu-rays to 4k? Just wondering which scaler is better. I just got a Panasonic 420, but haven't had much chance to play with it yet. Wondering what the general consensus is. My old Oppo BDP-83 outputting 1080p into the 5040 with 4k Enhancement on looks pretty darn good, but just wondering what the general consensus is on the 5040's scaler. Thanks.


----------



## monkaquinas

*UHD Black & White Movie with HDR Advice*

Good afternoon guys,

I just setup my refurbed Projector, it developed an internal error, after I tried to install the 1.14 FW. Anyway, the support team and quick turn around was good. I've rebuilt (for now) my various settings for HD & UHD and wondered if any of you had any advice for how to handle/setup settings for the New It's a Wonderful Life that was released. Appreciate the advice.


----------



## tlopes

Chad T said:


> 10" off center is not much. You should be fine with the lens shift controls. Make sure the projector is totally square to the screen.


As stated, I already used the lens shift. Yes, other than the 10" offset, the projector is square to the screen.

The question is about whether to keep the keystone setting in place to resolve the trapezoid or remove keystone and overshoot beyond the black frame border. Which is better? I just don't know how much keystone affects image quality...


----------



## noob00224

tlopes said:


> As stated, I already used the lens shift. Yes, other than the 10" offset, the projector is square to the screen.
> 
> The question is about whether to keep the keystone setting in place to resolve the trapezoid or remove keystone and overshoot beyond the black frame border. Which is better? I just don't know how much keystone affects image quality...


Keystone is software and should be avoided. You can test the different levels and see what the effect is.
Lens shift, unless used to the edge of the range, is fine.

As it's mentioned in a previous post, if the projector is level to the ground and perpendicular to the screen, from a position where it would be at the center of the screen, it can be placed up to 56" up or down.


----------



## failax

What is the best player from for this projectors to play hdr movies from hard disk?


----------



## dimi123

noob00224 said:


> Could not find this information, how much of the DCI P3 gamut can the 5040UB/HC4000 without the filter?


89% of DCI-P3 in Natural mode without the the color filter.


----------



## noob00224

failax said:


> What is the best player from for this projectors to play hdr movies from hard disk?



Madvr for PC. Requires a GPU, minimum GTX1060.
It works with a few players: MPC, Pot player, J river, Kodi, etc.

The HDR Dynamic Tone Mapping is still being developed, latest version is 112B:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-265.html#post58828906


Use one of the HTSM curves:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-275.html#post58893810


That thread is not a support thread though, this is the one:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2215490-madvr-player-support-thread-60.html

Madvr can do other things, here is a guide for it, except for the DTM which is still in beta:
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188


@DavidinGA has a 5040UB on a 150" screen with madvr.


----------



## noob00224

dimi123 said:


> 89% of DCI-P3 in Natural mode without the the color filter.


Do you have a source or measured it yourself?



noob00224 said:


> The only reference I found was from a review of the TW9300 (6040UB):
> _However in Natural mode the filter is removed and the colour space is close to Rec.709 which is the native colour space for all TV broadcasting, _
> https://www.avforums.com/review/epson-eh-tw9300-projector-review.13460


----------



## dimi123

noob00224 said:


> Do you have a source or measured it yourself?


https://hdtvpolska.com/epson-eh-tw9300w-test-projektora-lcd-4k-ultra-hd/?showfull=1


----------



## noob00224

dimi123 said:


> https://hdtvpolska.com/epson-eh-tw9300w-test-projektora-lcd-4k-ultra-hd/?showfull=1


What does 80% and 65% mean? Uncalibrated?


----------



## dimi123

noob00224 said:


> What does 80% and 65% mean? Uncalibrated?


89% of DCI-P3 (without filter)
65% of Rec. 2020 (without filter)

99% of DCI-P3 (with filter)
80% of Rec. 2020 (with filter)


----------



## failax

Someone using player zidoo x9s with Epson 5040ub?How to bypass 8 bit limitation with 4k movies?


----------



## Morphx2

Archaea said:


> I’m not wise enough to speak to the technicalities, but yes the 4K 60Hz SDR choice on the Roku 4k stick either strips HDR or just streams a 4K non HDR feed and that fixed the associated gamma problems — and yes its still 4K according to the projector info. I have pictures on the previous page or two.


Can it be done with the Nvidia Shield too?


----------



## armstrr

Archaea said:


> Honestly with all the headaches that reading about this stuff brings and the constant tinkering that is required to get everything right per show or 4K disk (if you are a perfectionist) with our crippled HDR implementation on this projector —this is about the best advice I’ve read in a long time.
> 
> And frankly it looks just as good.
> 
> A couple weeks ago, after months of tinkering with this stuff I felt like I wanted to just burn the whole place down when I couldn’t even see what was happening in the Mandalorian dark scenes.
> 
> Buy a Panasonic DP-UB420 for streaming Netflix and 4K disks. Set its HDR optimizer on and adjust dynamic slider for taste. That’ll save you a lot of frustration if you want to use HDR.
> 
> Otherwise set your Roku 4k to 60Hz 4K SDR or 1080p SDR and likewise for the projector and Panasonic player and just save yourself a lot of aggravation.
> 
> If you can tell a significant difference between 4k downscaled with e-shift and 1080p upscaled with e-shift on this projector — then you’ve better eyes than me. Resolution is probably the least of your worries.
> 
> Streaming media look better in 4K because of compression that the streaming companies use. But on retail bluray vs UHD 4K disks on our 5040UB - I bet most couldn’t spot the difference with e-shift on.



does the 420 do dolby atmos with netflix? i just bought a new shield... but basically for netflix atmos... if the 420 is capable of it... then the premium for an uhd bluray is justifiable


----------



## Archaea

armstrr said:


> does the 420 do dolby atmos with netflix? i just bought a new shield... but basically for netflix atmos... if the 420 is capable of it... then the premium for an uhd bluray is justifiable




Yes. It does Atmos on Netflix. That is how I use it now.


----------



## Chad T

For programming universal remote macros, does anybody know how long after turning a 5040ub it takes before it responds to remote commands/input changes? Thanks.


----------



## armstrr

Archaea said:


> Yes. It does Atmos on Netflix. That is how I use it now.


guess i should have asked about the other streaming services at the same time... disney +, amazon prime? does it have these and does it handle atmos (or is there indication that panasonic will do firmware updates to do so?)


----------



## Archaea

It does not have Disney + yet. I have no idea if it will be updated to include Disney +.

Yes it has Amazon Prime. It's really a pretty limited streaming interface. Don't expect it to replace a Amazon 4K firestick or Roku 4K stick for functionality. But for the most popular core services it works great, and gives you the nice HDR optimizer features as well as HDR and 4K and Dolby Atmos.


----------



## Tom J. Davis

Can the xbox one X be set to output 1080p hdr 60hz? Seems if someone didn't care about 4k output that would be the best solution without having to buy a 3rd party device. This is all incredibly confusing and makes me think I should just buy a 1080p projector and forget all the 4k hdr nonsense.


----------



## Minhas

I purchased a refurb 5040ub a couple months ago and have not been able to get any signal using the HDMI 1 connection. I've tried multiple HDMI cables, all work fine when I connect to HDMI 2 using an AVR or computer as a source, but trying HDMI 1 results in no signal. All cables are high speed HDMI cables. Am I crazy or should this simply just work?


----------



## TomBonge

*Epson 5040ub with older HDMI 1.3 receiver*

I am thinking about upgrading my 10 year old Sanyo to a Epson 5040ub, but I don't have the $ to get a new receiver also. I have a Marantz SR4002 with HDMI 1.3. 



What will that do to 4k video coming from a FireTV 4k? 



Will the FireTV see it as connected to a 1080p only screen? 



Will the Marantz pass-though the 4k video to the Epson without changing it? 



If I get the UBe version, can I use the wireless hub to connect the Epson in 4k via wireless and the HDMI out on the wireless hub to connect to the Marantz? Will there be any sync issues?


----------



## roland6465

Minhas said:


> I purchased a refurb 5040ub a couple months ago and have not been able to get any signal using the HDMI 1 connection. I've tried multiple HDMI cables, all work fine when I connect to HDMI 2 using an AVR or computer as a source, but trying HDMI 1 results in no signal. All cables are high speed HDMI cables. Am I crazy or should this simply just work?



Honestly, if it's a refurb, then the Epson shop probably just turned a returned unit on to verify that it lit up, and sent it back out with an "ok" from QC. I would bet that no source was ever connected to either HDMI port. Congratulations, you discovered why it was returned in the first place. 



Exchange it and cross your fingers.


----------



## aili

Hi, everyone.
Ok, so I bought a fire stick 4k to stream Netflix.
But Netflix doesn't show 4k option?
Ive tried the trick with custom resolution, 4k 24hz 8bit, but still the same.
Why?
Can someone give me a hint please.


----------



## Gelfling

Are the latest PDF calibration settings still the file "50406040settings.11.22.pdf" or is there an updated version. The one I found in this thread was dated 2017. Thanks.


----------



## marcosphoto

Hi folks, I could sit and read for 3 weeks to find this info which I'm sure is in here somewhere, but maybe someone knows off the hop an easy answer. Watching 4k Ultra HDR I find the picture is very dark. I know this is very normal with HDR and especially the 5040. I am very new to HDR tech and frankly am struggling with most newer tech these days. There are actually multiple related questions I have:


1) Best solution for dark HDR picture? (I have already switched modes to bright theater, but still darker than SDR).
2) Any settings I should change (or co-ordinate) between my Panasonic DP-UB820 and the projector for best performance? 


3) Not really a question to be addressed here, but I am currently on other threads addressing a problem with 4K ultra HDR passthrough on an older HDCP2.0 Yamaha RX-V1075 receiver. At present I have to actually remove the receiver from the video path and connect it direct to the player. I then use the second HDMI output for sound to the receiver. This is only a temp hookup for 4K Ultra because otherwise I loose all my on-screen and switching capabilities of the receiver. (eg. Volume control, settings, media data, etc). I can't even tell what audio format I am outputting to the receiver once it is eliminated from the video path, so it's all very frustrating. Cannot afford a new receiver at this time. Huge scam this HDCP tech, stopping people from using equipment they paid good money for in the name of copy-protection. Seems more to me a manufacturer cash grab. But, I digress....


Current setup.
Panasonic DP-UB820 - Yamaha RX-V1075 - Epson 5040ub
106" screen (125"on the way), projector about 16' from screen (on the closer side throw for 125" screen)


----------



## sleepingatsea

Hey ya'll, thought I'd mention this here, but over in the Panny 820 thread, there was a post about setting the player to HDR-SDR Conversion using SDR BT2020. For those using this player, I've tested this out using the Digital Cinema setting to engage the DCI-P3 colour filter and can confirm it looks amazing and using the Dynamic Range Conversion you can get enough brightness without needing to use lamp in high. 

Post by Dreamliner -

Panasonic UB420 / UB820 & SDR2020 (aka, the projector solution)

The Panasonic UB420 & UB820 are the answer for physical 4K media. With the built-in SDR2020 Tone Mapping, 4K discs behave exactly like HD discs and you never have to deal with HDR shenanigans or titles looking 'dark'. The UB420/UB820 will make you think you bought a new projector. Configured with the settings below, your projector will not see a ‘HDR’ signal so it will not probably not switch to whatever Gamma curve your projector uses. The UB820 is still interpreting the HDR data off the disc and sending a ‘full range’ signal to the projector so you are not leaving any color or brightness 'on the table'. You get beautiful high resolution and wide color gamut images without the hassle. 

The UB420 or UB820 is worth every single penny and your only regret will be waiting this long to get it.

For projectors the UB420 & UB820 are functionally identical (420 doesn’t support Dolby Vision but neither do projectors). I even tested disc load times and streaming times. The UB420 & UB820 are identical. The only difference I could find was the UB820 has DV support and Optical Down Sampling goes to 192kHz on the UB820 and only 96kHz on the UB420. I only use HDMI so that doesn't matter either.

Panasonic UB420 / UB820 Optimal Settings for Projectors (SDR2020):

On the UB420 / UB820:
Settings>HDMI>Advanced>HDR/Color Gamut Output>SDR/BT.2020
Settings>HDMI>Advanced>HDR/Color Gamut Output>HDR TV Type>Basic Luminance LCD and Projector
Settings>Audio>Settings for High Clarity Sound>Front Panel Display>Off (UB820 preference)

On the UB420 / UB820 During 4K Disc Playback:
Options (remote button)>Video Settings>Optimum HDR Adjustment>HDR Optimizer>On (preference)
Options (remote button)>Video Settings>Optimum HDR Adjustment>Dynamic Range Conversion Adjustment>+4 to +8 (preference)

Regarding HDR Optimizer, you lose some brightness but gain detail in explosions and similar. I started with this off but now have it on. Dynamic Range Conversion Adjustment will depend a lot on your screen size, bigger screens will want more. I have left the other settings at defaults (so far).

On the Projector (JVC specific settings here):
Color Profile>BT.2020
Gamma>2.4

Definitely recommend giving this a go!


----------



## chris mush

Today, I got a yellow pop up on my 5040 saying it was time to replace the bulb. OK... I got 4000+ hours on it. No problem. I went to the Epson store and they are OOS.

I'm hesitant to by a non-Epson bulb. Should I be? Are OEMs ok? Where is everyone getting bulbs from?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Geraldius

Don't know if this has been covered here before, so...
I finally had to replace my original lamp at about 4200 hrs use. It still seemed bright enough, but I had probably grown accustomed to whatever gradual dimming there was. But I was getting a message saying to change it, so I did. That's when the trouble began.

I started getting a green tint to the whole display, and sometimes a big growing pink or magenta blob in the center. I saw one user in this thread that had reported the same thing, but not connected to changing the bulb. I couldn't find whether his issue was ever solved.

I eventually discovered that it was heat related. Running the fan faster by setting high altitude mode caused the problem to stop. It turned out that my air filter was very dirty and blocking the airflow, worst in ECO mode, which I usually use. So I removed the air filter and cleaned it with compressed air. It wasn't visibly covered with dirt, but the paper looked dark. When I cleaned it a lot of very fine black dust came out. After that the problem is gone even with normal fan speed.

So remember to clean your air filter! I never got any overheating messages. But I'm sure that if this was allowed to continue that it would have caused damage to the unit. After changing the bulb, the higher brightness must have been creating more heat. I suspect that something in the optics was getting hot enough to distort -- possibly the polarizers.


----------



## Geraldius

chris mush said:


> Today, I got a yellow pop up on my 5040 saying it was time to replace the bulb. OK... I got 4000+ hours on it. No problem. I went to the Epson store and they are OOS.
> 
> I'm hesitant to by a non-Epson bulb. Should I be? Are OEMs ok? Where is everyone getting bulbs from?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Got my Epson branded replacement from https://www.bhphotovideo.com/
You might want to get a new air filter while you're at it. See my previous message.


----------



## Morphx2

Brettmckinney said:


> Hey ya'll, thought I'd mention this here, but over in the Panny 820 thread, there was a post about setting the player to HDR-SDR Conversion using SDR BT2020. For those using this player, I've tested this out using the Digital Cinema setting to engage the DCI-P3 colour filter and can confirm it looks amazing and using the Dynamic Range Conversion you can get enough brightness without needing to use lamp in high.
> 
> 
> 
> Post by Dreamliner -
> 
> 
> 
> Panasonic UB420 / UB820 & SDR2020 (aka, the projector solution)
> 
> 
> 
> The Panasonic UB420 & UB820 are the answer for physical 4K media. With the built-in SDR2020 Tone Mapping, 4K discs behave exactly like HD discs and you never have to deal with HDR shenanigans or titles looking 'dark'. The UB420/UB820 will make you think you bought a new projector. Configured with the settings below, your projector will not see a ‘HDR’ signal so it will not probably not switch to whatever Gamma curve your projector uses. The UB820 is still interpreting the HDR data off the disc and sending a ‘full range’ signal to the projector so you are not leaving any color or brightness 'on the table'. You get beautiful high resolution and wide color gamut images without the hassle.
> 
> 
> 
> The UB420 or UB820 is worth every single penny and your only regret will be waiting this long to get it.
> 
> 
> 
> For projectors the UB420 & UB820 are functionally identical (420 doesn’t support Dolby Vision but neither do projectors). I even tested disc load times and streaming times. The UB420 & UB820 are identical. The only difference I could find was the UB820 has DV support and Optical Down Sampling goes to 192kHz on the UB820 and only 96kHz on the UB420. I only use HDMI so that doesn't matter either.
> 
> 
> 
> Panasonic UB420 / UB820 Optimal Settings for Projectors (SDR2020):
> 
> 
> 
> On the UB420 / UB820:
> 
> Settings>HDMI>Advanced>HDR/Color Gamut Output>SDR/BT.2020
> 
> Settings>HDMI>Advanced>HDR/Color Gamut Output>HDR TV Type>Basic Luminance LCD and Projector
> 
> Settings>Audio>Settings for High Clarity Sound>Front Panel Display>Off (UB820 preference)
> 
> 
> 
> On the UB420 / UB820 During 4K Disc Playback:
> 
> Options (remote button)>Video Settings>Optimum HDR Adjustment>HDR Optimizer>On (preference)
> 
> Options (remote button)>Video Settings>Optimum HDR Adjustment>Dynamic Range Conversion Adjustment>+4 to +8 (preference)
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding HDR Optimizer, you lose some brightness but gain detail in explosions and similar. I started with this off but now have it on. Dynamic Range Conversion Adjustment will depend a lot on your screen size, bigger screens will want more. I have left the other settings at defaults (so far).
> 
> 
> 
> On the Projector (JVC specific settings here):
> 
> Color Profile>BT.2020
> 
> Gamma>2.4
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely recommend giving this a go!


Does it also work for 4k mkv's?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Geraldius

Tom J. Davis said:


> Can the xbox one X be set to output 1080p hdr 60hz? Seems if someone didn't care about 4k output that would be the best solution without having to buy a 3rd party device. This is all incredibly confusing and makes me think I should just buy a 1080p projector and forget all the 4k hdr nonsense.


No 60hz HDR with the xbox one x with this projector. 
You can get 4K or 1080 60hz UHD witout HDR.
You can get 4K 24hz HDR for movies and streaming, but not gaming.


----------



## noob00224

Geraldius said:


> No 60hz HDR with the xbox one x with this projector.
> You can get 4K or 1080 60hz UHD witout HDR.
> You can get 4K 24hz HDR for movies and streaming, but not gaming.


4K HDR 60Hz is possible, but at 8bit instead of 10.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Morphx2 said:


> Does it also work for 4k mkv's?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


I haven't tested it but would assume it should do.


----------



## Archaea

Morphx2 said:


> Does it also work for 4k mkv's?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk




No. The panasonic players wont play lossless audio containers from mkvs because of copyright concerns. 

That means no Dolby Digital HD not DTS-MA, no Atmos and no DTS-X.

Dolby Digital and DTS containers work though from what I’ve read but not tested.


----------



## Morphx2

Archaea said:


> No. The panasonic players wont play lossless audio containers from mkvs because of copyright concerns.
> 
> That means no Dolby Digital HD not DTS-MA, no Atmos and no DTS-X.
> 
> Dolby Digital and DTS containers work though from what I’ve read but not tested.


Ah, that stinks! Thanks for letting me know.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Geraldius

noob00224 said:


> 4K HDR 60Hz is possible, but at 8bit instead of 10.


Not with the Epson 5040ub. The xbox one x doesn't support 8-bit 60hz HDR, and the projector is incapable of 60hz 10-bit HDR. Otherwise, I'd love to see your settings that prove otherwise.


----------



## noob00224

Geraldius said:


> Not with the Epson 5040ub. The xbox one x doesn't support 8-bit 60hz HDR, and the projector is incapable of 60hz 10-bit HDR. Otherwise, I'd love to see your settings that prove otherwise.


And the posts following it:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...inema-4050-owner-s-thread-4.html#post58916234


----------



## Geraldius

noob00224 said:


> And the posts following it:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...inema-4050-owner-s-thread-4.html#post58916234


Not sure what your point is. The xbox can't be set to output a 60hz 8-bit HDR signal. The OP question was about the xbox. The xbox doesn't recognize any 8-bit HDR capability of the 5040. The only HDR setting the xbox allows when connected to the 5040 is 10-bit HDR 24hz, for movies and streaming, and not for gaming.


----------



## Archaea

Brettmckinney said:


> Hey ya'll, thought I'd mention this here, but over in the Panny 820 thread, there was a post about setting the player to HDR-SDR Conversion using SDR BT2020. For those using this player, I've tested this out using the Digital Cinema setting to engage the DCI-P3 colour filter and can confirm it looks amazing and using the Dynamic Range Conversion you can get enough brightness without needing to use lamp in high.
> 
> Post by Dreamliner -
> 
> Panasonic UB420 / UB820 & SDR2020 (aka, the projector solution)
> 
> The Panasonic UB420 & UB820 are the answer for physical 4K media. With the built-in SDR2020 Tone Mapping, 4K discs behave exactly like HD discs and you never have to deal with HDR shenanigans or titles looking 'dark'. The UB420/UB820 will make you think you bought a new projector. Configured with the settings below, your projector will not see a ‘HDR’ signal so it will not probably not switch to whatever Gamma curve your projector uses. The UB820 is still interpreting the HDR data off the disc and sending a ‘full range’ signal to the projector so you are not leaving any color or brightness 'on the table'. You get beautiful high resolution and wide color gamut images without the hassle.
> 
> The UB420 or UB820 is worth every single penny and your only regret will be waiting this long to get it.
> 
> For projectors the UB420 & UB820 are functionally identical (420 doesn’t support Dolby Vision but neither do projectors). I even tested disc load times and streaming times. The UB420 & UB820 are identical. The only difference I could find was the UB820 has DV support and Optical Down Sampling goes to 192kHz on the UB820 and only 96kHz on the UB420. I only use HDMI so that doesn't matter either.
> 
> Panasonic UB420 / UB820 Optimal Settings for Projectors (SDR2020):
> 
> On the UB420 / UB820:
> Settings>HDMI>Advanced>HDR/Color Gamut Output>SDR/BT.2020
> Settings>HDMI>Advanced>HDR/Color Gamut Output>HDR TV Type>Basic Luminance LCD and Projector
> Settings>Audio>Settings for High Clarity Sound>Front Panel Display>Off (UB820 preference)
> 
> On the UB420 / UB820 During 4K Disc Playback:
> Options (remote button)>Video Settings>Optimum HDR Adjustment>HDR Optimizer>On (preference)
> Options (remote button)>Video Settings>Optimum HDR Adjustment>Dynamic Range Conversion Adjustment>+4 to +8 (preference)
> 
> Regarding HDR Optimizer, you lose some brightness but gain detail in explosions and similar. I started with this off but now have it on. Dynamic Range Conversion Adjustment will depend a lot on your screen size, bigger screens will want more. I have left the other settings at defaults (so far).
> 
> On the Projector (JVC specific settings here):
> Color Profile>BT.2020
> Gamma>2.4
> 
> Definitely recommend giving this a go!



I agree.
This just works around all the HDR frustrations. I just spent some time comparing dark scenes again from the HDR optimizer on with various settings to the HDR striped away using the SDR BT2020 setting. Yes I like the SDR BT2020 setting better too. Black levels look closer to standard 1080P Blurays which is a big win on this projector. HDR 4K disks in their normal mode are just too muddy and dark - even with the HDR optimizer of the Pansasonic - at least for my individual setup on the 5040UB and XD projector screen (144" cinemascope/152" 16x9 equivalent)

Though, I don't particularly like Digital Cinema or Cinema myself. I like natural and medium bulb the best, over digital cinema. I haven't yet seen what the p3 filter gives me or that it outweighs the better, overall brighter more realistic picture (on my setup) I get from Natural. From default Natural I make the following deviations. 
Image Enhancement 3 (from default of 1), and Color at 55 (from default of 50).

I think this is the best this projector has looked in the six months or so I've had it. And that includes all the various trials I've done with the Harpervision type gamma setups without all the fuss of having to manually switch anything. My gamma is back at default and no manual remote control switching between SDR and HDR content.


----------



## noob00224

Geraldius said:


> Not sure what your point is. The xbox can't be set to output a 60hz 8-bit HDR signal. The OP question was about the xbox. The xbox doesn't recognize any 8-bit HDR capability of the 5040. The only HDR setting the xbox allows when connected to the 5040 is 10-bit HDR 24hz, for movies and streaming, and not for gaming.


If you look at the screenshot it says 4K in HDR at 60Hz.

If you read the posts after that it says it can be achieved with the HD Fury Linker, regardless if the XBOX does not have that option.


----------



## Geraldius

noob00224 said:


> If you look at the screenshot it says 4K in HDR at 60Hz.
> 
> If you read the posts after that it says it can be achieved with the HD Fury Linker, regardless if the XBOX does not have that option.


OK, so the answer to the original question is still no. Fury Linker is required. Have you actually used an xbox in this configuration with the 5040 yourself?
Or one could just get the 5050ub, instead...


----------



## noob00224

Geraldius said:


> OK, so the answer to the original question is still no. Fury Linker is required. Have you actually used an xbox in this configuration with the 5040 yourself?
> Or one could just get the 5050ub, instead...


Well yes, a Fury Linker is required, but it's not that expensive.
Haven't tested the two devices together.

It would be significantly cheaper to get an Fury Linker than a 5050UB.


----------



## fourbyfive

MLP78 said:


> This is my first post so I want to thank you for your time and expertise. If this specific issue has been addressed already then I apologize but I haven’t seen it.
> 
> I have an Epson 5040ub that suddenly began displaying 3 vertical yellow lines across the picture. The lines are visible no matter what is being displayed. I’ve disconnected all inputs and the lines are there including on the menu screen.
> 
> I’ve torn into it and removed the main board and used compressed air to dust off the lenses etc., so in the process have disconnected and reconnected the LCD wires with no apparent effect.
> 
> The projector works just fine except for the lines. Any help or ideas on what to do next would be really appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


I had this same issue. It came and went until it became permanent after a few weeks. Epson replaced the projector under warranty.


----------



## Gelfling

Quick question. My 5040UB is arriving this week to replace a 9 year old PT-AE4000. I run my video signal via a HDMI cable inside a conduit (I think the cable is about 20') and the cable still works great. Do I need to pull a new cable for the 5040UB? I know HDMI has had a significant change in bandwith since I built my setup. The PT-AE4000 only does 1080p/60. I still have the order of the original cable and its listed as:

High Speed HDMI CL2 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 25ft (Gold Plated Connectors)

Thanks!

I think I answered my own question. The cable is a Monoprice 3990 and is rated at 10.2 GPS, which should work, right?


----------



## Christian Busch

*Epson 5040UB PSU repair cost?*

Hi,

bought a used 5040ub on ebay. the unit failed immedatley what looks like the PSU failure. 

Does anyone know how much the repair is?
Anyone have a recent invoice to share?


----------



## sleepingatsea

Archaea said:


> I agree.
> This just works around all the HDR frustrations. I just spent some time comparing dark scenes again from the HDR optimizer on with various settings to the HDR striped away using the SDR BT2020 setting. Yes I like the SDR BT2020 setting better too. Black levels look closer to standard 1080P Blurays which is a big win on this projector. HDR 4K disks in their normal mode are just too muddy and dark - even with the HDR optimizer of the Pansasonic - at least for my individual setup on the 5040UB and XD projector screen (144" cinemascope/152" 16x9 equivalent)
> 
> Though, I don't particularly like Digital Cinema or Cinema myself. I like natural and medium bulb the best, over digital cinema. I haven't yet seen what the p3 filter gives me or that it outweighs the better, overall brighter more realistic picture (on my setup) I get from Natural. From default Natural I make the following deviations.
> Image Enhancement 3 (from default of 1), and Color at 55 (from default of 50).
> 
> I think this is the best this projector has looked in the six months or so I've had it. And that includes all the various trials I've done with the Harpervision type gamma setups without all the fuss of having to manually switch anything. My gamma is back at default and no manual remote control switching between SDR and HDR content.


I've been doing some comparisons between my Natural setting and the Digital Cinema with the P3 filter and with the UB820 using the DR Conversion set to 8, the Digital Cinema mode is just as bright however the colors and gradients are much more pronounced and deeper due to the filter being engaged. It really does look incredible. This was settings at brightness 50, contrast 62 and color 51. I think I did have a custom gamma curve though, will need to check it! If your interested let me know and I can post it.

I just bought Shazam 4k - haven't seen it yet so will be a good test tonight!


----------



## Archaea

Brettmckinney said:


> I've been doing some comparisons between my Natural setting and the Digital Cinema with the P3 filter and with the UB820 using the DR Conversion set to 8, the Digital Cinema mode is just as bright however the colors and gradients are much more pronounced and deeper due to the filter being engaged. It really does look incredible. This was settings at brightness 50, contrast 62 and color 51. I think I did have a custom gamma curve though, will need to check it! If your interested let me know and I can post it.
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought Shazam 4k - haven't seen it yet so will be a good test tonight!




I’ll try it if you post it

I just did some testing with a buddy of mine tonight @stitch1

We watched clips from a few things, but mostly concentrated on HTTYD 3 

Digital cinema is just too dark for me in default config. Even with the HD Optimizer. My screen size is 144” 2.35:1 which is equivalent to 152” 16x9. Natural looks just as colorful to me as digital cinema, and I think Tim agreed. With SDR / BT2020 coming from the Panasonic UB420.


----------



## mat82284

Christian Busch said:


> Hi,
> 
> bought a used 5040ub on ebay. the unit failed immedatley what looks like the PSU failure.
> 
> Does anyone know how much the repair is?
> Anyone have a recent invoice to share? /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif


Check if it still has a valid warranty otherwise return it to the seller. These cost more than $1200 for repair and a refurbished one goes for that. You just have to catch it in stock, usually Monday-Friday in the mornings a few pop up.


----------



## Superman2

Hi folks, I’m running an xbox1s with a 4010. Currently have the Xbox set to 1080p SDR and 10bit with the 4010 4k enhancement on. Using Natural mode, this just looks incredible. I may purchase the Panasonic ub420 since it can get you to HDR but so far I just don’t want to tinker trying to make HDR work on a projector. My question is, do I have the settings correct with the Xbox or should it be set to 4kuhd SDR.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jonathan thornton

Hey all I have an issue I haven’t been able to find a solid answer to. I purchased a refurb 5040UB from amazon (so I can return if needed).
I have every device that I’ve used with my 5040Ub of course with some modification and setting to 30hz. Apple TV, Nvidia shield, Roku ultra. So far so good.

My issue is my Xbox one x. I’ve read and read thru everything the internet has to offer regarding this. I’m fully aware of the limitations on the HDMI port. My only issue is I have a huge collection of 4K HDR discs, movies. I prefer these due to compression when streaming - whenever I attempt to play one of my HDR movies I get the message how HDR is not supported.

HDR is checked as on, however whenever I try to check 24hz on the Xbox I get the error saying it’s not supported. Shouldn’t this work? Or am I missing something?

Bottom line and my question - is it possible to play my 4K blu rays in HDR format on the 5040UB at 24hz? Without modification of a HDfury Linker? I’ve tried troubleshooting, connecting the Xbox directly to the projector using a high speed cable and I still have this issue? Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## mat82284

jonathan thornton said:


> Hey all I have an issue I havenâ€™️t been able to find a solid answer to. I purchased a refurb 5040UB from amazon (so I can return if needed).
> I have every device that Iâ€™️ve used with my 5040Ub of course with some modification and setting to 30hz. Apple TV, Nvidia shield, Roku ultra. So far so good.
> 
> My issue is my Xbox one x. Iâ€™️ve read and read thru everything the internet has to offer regarding this. Iâ€™️m fully aware of the limitations on the HDMI port. My only issue is I have a huge collection of 4K HDR discs, movies. I prefer these due to compression when streaming - whenever I attempt to play one of my HDR movies I get the message how HDR is not supported.
> 
> HDR is checked as on, however whenever I try to check 24hz on the Xbox I get the error saying itâ€™️s not supported. Shouldnâ€™️t this work? Or am I missing something?
> 
> Bottom line and my question - is it possible to play my 4K blu rays in HDR format on the 5040UB at 24hz? Without modification of a HDfury Linker? Iâ€™️ve tried troubleshooting, connecting the Xbox directly to the projector using a high speed cable and I still have this issue? Any help is greatly appreciated.


If the Xbox doesn’t support it then your cable might be the issue. My old 25ft cable wouldn’t work and told me HDR is not supported on my Apple tv then realized it’s probably the cord, so I bought this 33ft fiber optic cable and it works perfectly for HDR and it’s also cheap! 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0753H3WZM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

I posted photos of the imagine with that cord in this thread.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...ub-1-151-00-a-28.html#/topics/3059050?page=84


----------



## jonathan thornton

Wow. So it should work with 4K HDR discs? They should display in HDR? And I should be able to check the 24hz box right?

I’m positive it’s not the cable. I have some cables I purchased from monoprice that are specified 18gbps. I’ve used them with the Xbox on my Vizio for Dolby vision. And I have tried two other cables I’ve had success with as well. I just didn’t know if I was missing something or not.

So the Linker is only needed if you’re intent on 60hz correct? I should be able to play my 4K UHD discs in HDR?


----------



## jonathan thornton

Also just to clarify hdr10 box IS checked. No issues there. It’s just the 25 hz box


----------



## mat82284

jonathan thornton said:


> Also just to clarify hdr10 box IS checked. No issues there. It’s just the 25 hz box


Then its probably the xbox that doesnt support it. Maybe only the new 4k xbox ones do and not all xbox ones are alike. Im not sure since I play PC games, not xbox games anymore.


----------



## jonathan thornton

Yeah I’m not a gamer at all. I just need it to play my 4K HDR blu rays. It’s the newest Xbox one x


----------



## Tom J. Davis

Just ordered a refurb from Epson. I'll just set the xbox for 1080p and use the Panasonic 4k bluray player for movies and whatever streaming service it supports. It's replacing an old Sony 720p lcd, should be a substantial upgrade. lol.



Looking for ceiling mount recommendations? Thanks.


----------



## deshmukhrd

*Projector does not go to standby mode*

I got a refurb unit that was delivered yesterday. The unit started working initially but not it turns on, power light and status light are green other lights are off but there is no image and the remote and pj buttons do not work. I can not put the pj in standby. I tried multiple times yesterday and gave up after multiple tries. Today morning it turned on showed an unfamiliar menu, went to standby but on restarting with HDMI source, it had the same problem as before. I checked the source with my old pj and it works but when the same source is connected to 5040UB nothing happens. Has anybody faced this problem and is there a way to fix it? I will call Epson tomorrow as they are closed today, but wanted to check if a solutions exists. TIA.


----------



## ghkvarma

*Epson 5040ub lack of Horizontal Keystone Correction*

I recently purchased the refurbished one and did not receive it yet.

This projector does not have any horizontal keystone correction.  I have a Duct line going in my finished basement that I cannot place the projector at the center of my 120 inch screen.  I can only place it at 1/3 rd of the screen (towards the left of the screen).  Do you guys think the horizontal lens shift can address the projector placement without having the horizontally skewed image? 

If this does not work, I plan to refuse the delivery of the projector (as recommended by Epson customer rep), otherwise I cannot return it once accepted (being a refurbished one).


----------



## mat82284

deshmukhrd said:


> I got a refurb unit that was delivered yesterday. The unit started working initially but not it turns on, power light and status light are green other lights are off but there is no image and the remote and pj buttons do not work. I can not put the pj in standby. I tried multiple times yesterday and gave up after multiple tries. Today morning it turned on showed an unfamiliar menu, went to standby but on restarting with HDMI source, it had the same problem as before. I checked the source with my old pj and it works but when the same source is connected to 5040UB nothing happens. Has anybody faced this problem and is there a way to fix it? I will call Epson tomorrow as they are closed today, but wanted to check if a solutions exists. TIA.


I had a similar issue except im not sure what you mean exactly by standby? Are you refering to the projector being off, but a light still showing on the unit? My first suggestion is to check your hdmi cord to make sure it can handle the bandwith needed at those distances for 4k. I replaced a 5020ub and my old hdmi cable didnt work with the new projector, all that happened was the screen flickering on and off and saying no source, to source not compatible.

(1st) Connect your media device directly to the projector with a shorter hdmi cord that you know works on your 4k tv at 60hz hdr 4:2:2 or above. If you get a picture, the hdmi cord is the problem. I'd suggest a fiber optic replacement for anything over 25ft. 

Another tip:
If it turns out that the hdmi cable was the problem, make sure your media player is set to the same settings that you want your projector to be set at to prevent future issues. After I connected my new hdmi cable I wasnt getting any picture (again) and thought maybe i got a defective cable, so I decided to trouble shoot by connecting my apple tv directly to the projector with just the new cable and boom, i had a picture. Then after more troubleshooting I soon realized the issue was related to my Denon AVR Receiver since it has multiple outputs it was forcing the same type of output for both my projector and my samsung 4k tv and since i had my apple tv set to 4k 60hz HDR chroma 4:4:4 my receiver was trying to send that to the projector which of course doesnt work on a 5040ub. After that I changed the apple tv to 4k SDR and then my projector booted up. After that I simply selected match source frame rate, and match dynamic rate that way when ever I boot up a movie the apple tv matches the movie exactly and since the 5040ub can output 12 bit HDR 4:2:2 at 23.97fps the projector correctly switches to HDR on its own. 

I'm not sure why, but that issue never happened when I used my 5020ub projector. I'm not sure why, but it must be related to it being a different resolution and the AVR doesnt seem to mind different resolutions for each output, but it does seem to mind different HDR settings.


----------



## mat82284

ghkvarma said:


> I recently purchased the refurbished one and did not receive it yet.
> 
> This projector does not have any horizontal keystone correction.  I have a Duct line going in my finished basement that I cannot place the projector at the center of my 120 inch screen.  I can only place it at 1/3 rd of the screen (towards the left of the screen).  Do you guys think the horizontal lens shift can address the projector placement without having the horizontally skewed image?
> 
> If this does not work, I plan to refuse the delivery of the projector (as recommended by Epson customer rep), otherwise I cannot return it once accepted (being a refurbished one).


Im having a hard time picturing what your talking about, do you have any photos? The lens shift works in all directions so its very helpfully with placement and works way better than keystone correction (which degrades pixels).


----------



## roland6465

deshmukhrd said:


> I got a refurb unit that was delivered yesterday. The unit started working initially but not it turns on, power light and status light are green other lights are off but there is no image and the remote and pj buttons do not work. I can not put the pj in standby. I tried multiple times yesterday and gave up after multiple tries. Today morning it turned on showed an unfamiliar menu, went to standby but on restarting with HDMI source, it had the same problem as before. I checked the source with my old pj and it works but when the same source is connected to 5040UB nothing happens. Has anybody faced this problem and is there a way to fix it? I will call Epson tomorrow as they are closed today, but wanted to check if a solutions exists. TIA.



Unfortunately, a lot of us have had similar or worse problems with Epson refurbs. It's a roll of the dice as to whether you get a good one. All you can do is call Epson, arrange an exchange, and cross your fingers. I know there are a ton of posts on this thread, but if you just hit a random page, you'll probably find a post about a bad refurb. 



Good luck!


----------



## deshmukhrd

mat82284 said:


> I had a similar issue except im not sure what you mean exactly by standby? Are you refering to the projector being off, but a light still showing on the unit? My first suggestion is to check your hdmi cord to make sure it can handle the bandwith needed at those distances for 4k. I replaced a 5020ub and my old hdmi cable didnt work with the new projector, all that happened was the screen flickering on and off and saying no source, to source not compatible.
> 
> (1st) Connect your media device directly to the projector with a shorter hdmi cord that you know works on your 4k tv at 60hz hdr 4:2:2 or above. If you get a picture, the hdmi cord is the problem. I'd suggest a fiber optic replacement for anything over 25ft.
> 
> Another tip:
> If it turns out that the hdmi cable was the problem, make sure your media player is set to the same settings that you want your projector to be set at to prevent future issues. After I connected my new hdmi cable I wasnt getting any picture (again) and thought maybe i got a defective cable, so I decided to trouble shoot by connecting my apple tv directly to the projector with just the new cable and boom, i had a picture. Then after more troubleshooting I soon realized the issue was related to my Denon AVR Receiver since it has multiple outputs it was forcing the same type of output for both my projector and my samsung 4k tv and since i had my apple tv set to 4k 60hz HDR chroma 4:4:4 my receiver was trying to send that to the projector which of course doesnt work on a 5040ub. After that I changed the apple tv to 4k SDR and then my projector booted up. After that I simply selected match source frame rate, and match dynamic rate that way when ever I boot up a movie the apple tv matches the movie exactly and since the 5040ub can output 12 bit HDR 4:2:2 at 23.97fps the projector correctly switches to HDR on its own.
> 
> I'm not sure why, but that issue never happened when I used my 5020ub projector. I'm not sure why, but it must be related to it being a different resolution and the AVR doesnt seem to mind different resolutions for each output, but it does seem to mind different HDR settings.


Thanks. This may be part of the problem. The projector booted up without issues using the same HDMI on a 1080p receiver. But when I used it with a 4k receiver it was stuck. The lamp was on but the projector would not turn off. I had to manually unplug it to turn it off. Today I was able to start it a few times and was able to connect fire tv cube with a short hdmi but it got stuck again trying to connect to the 4k receiver with a lang hdmi. Not it is stuck again. Hopefully it will come back and I can change the cable and try the 4k source again. Thanks again, will post about my experience once I am able to get it to work.


----------



## ghkvarma

Thanks matt8224 for your quick reply.



mat82284 said:


> Im having a hard time picturing what your talking about, do you have any photos? The lens shift works in all directions so its very helpfully with placement and works way better than keystone correction (which degrades pixels).


Attached are the pics of my basement. I have put the blue tape to depict the area I am planning to set my screen. The two strips you see in the middle are: one to show the mid-point and the other (towards left of the screen) is the horizontal point that aligns to the mid-point of the projector lens. The distance between these two strips is about 15 inches. The blue tape on the floor is the point that I intend to install my projector to the ceiling.

As you can see the duct lines running through out do not allow me to install the projector at the mid-point horizontally. Hope this clarifies my question better.


----------



## noob00224

ghkvarma said:


> I recently purchased the refurbished one and did not receive it yet.
> 
> This projector does not have any horizontal keystone correction. I have a Duct line going in my finished basement that I cannot place the projector at the center of my 120 inch screen. I can only place it at 1/3 rd of the screen (towards the left of the screen). Do you guys think the horizontal lens shift can address the projector placement without having the horizontally skewed image?
> 
> If this does not work, I plan to refuse the delivery of the projector (as recommended by Epson customer rep), otherwise I cannot return it once accepted (being a refurbished one).


While the lens shift on this projector will work in this setup, lens shift can result in image degradation. You'll have to test it and see if it's a problem.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

From the bottom of the page, in the Lens Shift rubric (after setting the screen to 120"):

_At this throw distance, with a centered image, the projected image can be shifted an additional *56"* up from the top, *56"* down from the bottom, *49"* over from the left, and *49"* over from the right edge of the image using the projector's lens shift capability. _


----------



## marcosphoto

avtoronto said:


> It will do HDR at 24Hz. The biggest issue is tone mapping. Setting your source device to SDR/2020 (like the Panasonic UHD player) causes the player to do the tone mapping and as it is generally considered to be one of the best devices for doing this, it does help with the projector’s output. For the projector, try the Digital Cinema setting. Some find this too dark, so YMMV.



I agree, the 5040 does do HDR, but the posters are looking for answers to "dreamliners" settings suggestions of SDR2020 as HDR is often much too dark for many projectors. I am currently using Digital Cinema also, but I have a pitch black theater environment. Very hard to say if other interested parties can get away with it as it is significantly darker than other highly recommended modes like Natural. Frankly, I struggle to see the difference between the 2. Sometimes I think Natural actually looks better but I think my eyes likes it more because it's brighter and it's hard for ones brain to see past the brighter picture to see the colour improvement made by the Cinema mode filter.


----------



## avtoronto

marcosphoto said:


> I agree, the 5040 does do HDR, but the posters are looking for answers to "dreamliners" settings suggestions of SDR2020 as HDR is often much too dark for many projectors. I am currently using Digital Cinema also, but I have a pitch black theater environment. Very hard to say if other interested parties can get away with it as it is significantly darker than other highly recommended modes like Natural. Frankly, I struggle to see the difference between the 2. Sometimes I think Natural actually looks better but I think my eyes likes it more because it's brighter and it's hard for ones brain to see past the brighter picture to see the colour improvement made by the Cinema mode filter.


I thought at some point tweaking the picture settings would settle down and I could just ‘set and forget’, but I am still fiddling with them. Digitial Cinema does yield better, deeper colours, but I take your point about Natural’s brightness. I am OCD enough to want to continue trying to use Digital Cinema because that is the intended setting for HDR material. Having said that though, I asked Epson Support about this some time ago and the recommendation that came back was to use Bright Cinema, assumedly to overcome the dark output problem, albeit at the sacrifice of some colour.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Gelfling said:


> This part of the answer confused me. I thought I would actually be outputting a 4k _non_-HDR signal with the settings I posted.
> 
> Isn't the whole point of these settings (ie changing Dynamic Range to SDR) to stop the implementation of HDR to allow the bandwidth to be used for 4k @ 60 fps (since the projector can't handle 4K HDR @ 60 FPS).


No, the whole point is to implement a better tone-mapping solution that allows you to watch HDR content much better. Unfortunately this is not going to allow to for [email protected] The only way to do that is with a HD Fury linker that sets bit depth to 8 instead of 10, but this introduces some banding from what I've heard.


----------



## sleepingatsea

avtoronto said:


> I thought at some point tweaking the picture settings would settle down and I could just ‘set and forget’, but I am still fiddling with them. Digitial Cinema does yield better, deeper colours, but I take your point about Natural’s brightness. I am OCD enough to want to continue trying to use Digital Cinema because that is the intended setting for HDR material. Having said that though, I asked Epson Support about this some time ago and the recommendation that came back was to use Bright Cinema, assumedly to overcome the dark output problem, albeit at the sacrifice of some colour.


Have you tested the SDR2020 yet with Digital cinema? Using the option button to change the Dynamic Range Conversion level to '8' boosted the brightness, and retained contrast for me to bring this on par with the brightness of my Natural mode. To compare, I'm then dialing the DR Conv back to 0 for Natural. 

Digital cinema has probably _slightly_ less brightness pop but the colors really pull it in front..IMO.


----------



## morty343

*issue when in 1080p mode*

Hello,


I have a 5040ub purchased new in late 2016 and it now has about 900 hours on its first lamp. I recently noticed a strange behavior when it is non-4K-enhanced (i.e. 1080p) mode. The image appears to be "striped". The stripes, when viewed against a solid pattern, run vertically and have a slight curvature to them. This occurs regardless of source, on both HDMI input 1 and 2, and I have tried different HDMI cables. I have tried re-adjusting panel alignment with no significant change. I recently updated from firmware 1.09 to 1.14 with no change. The issue is not noticeable in 4K-enhanced mode, which is what I normally run. I am concerned this could mean there are other issues with the projector or that I am not getting its "best" performance, even when in 4K-enhanced mode.


I have attached two images taken with my iPhone about 2 feet away from my AT screen, of an S&M test pattern. One is in 1080p mode, the other 4K-enhanced mode.


Can anyone tell me if this is a known issue, if yes is there any user-level fix, or if it needs service what I can expect any repair costs to be? Thanks in advance -


----------



## marcosphoto

morty343 said:


> Hello,
> 
> 
> I have a 5040ub purchased new in late 2016 and it now has about 900 hours on its first lamp. I recently noticed a strange behavior when it is non-4K-enhanced (i.e. 1080p) mode. The image appears to be "striped". The stripes, when viewed against a solid pattern, run vertically and have a slight curvature to them. This occurs regardless of source, on both HDMI input 1 and 2, and I have tried different HDMI cables. I have tried re-adjusting panel alignment with no significant change. I recently updated from firmware 1.09 to 1.14 with no change. The issue is not noticeable in 4K-enhanced mode, which is what I normally run. I am concerned this could mean there are other issues with the projector or that I am not getting its "best" performance, even when in 4K-enhanced mode.


 
Almost looks like moire, am I right? Interesting. I have a little less on my bulb but I can't say I've noticed this with mine. (although I hardly ever run outside of 4K enhanced mode, why bother?). Could it be just the source disk, is it doing it will all sources?


----------



## morty343

marcosphoto said:


> Almost looks like moire, am I right? Interesting. I have a little less on my bulb but I can't say I've noticed this with mine. (although I hardly ever run outside of 4K enhanced mode, why bother?). Could it be just the source disk, is it doing it will all sources?



Thanks. Yes, it happens with any source, although on a moving image it comes across more as increased graininess, unless the image is of a solid surface (like a sky). As mentioned it does go away when set to 4K enhanced, but my concern is that it may be indicative of an issue that means even 4K enhanced is not performing as well as it "should" be. Are there diagnostic routines I can try prior to unmounting it from my ceiling and taking it to a service center? Any suggestions?


----------



## Christian Busch

mat82284 said:


> Check if it still has a valid warranty otherwise return it to the seller. These cost more than $1200 for repair and a refurbished one goes for that. You just have to catch it in stock, usually Monday-Friday in the mornings a few pop up.


Thank you, seller accepted the return. 
Do the refurbished 5040YB all have a replaced, reliable PSU ? 
Do the 6040UBs have the same PSU issue?


----------



## mat82284

Christian Busch said:


> mat82284 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Check if it still has a valid warranty otherwise return it to the seller. These cost more than $1200 for repair and a refurbished one goes for that. You just have to catch it in stock, usually Monday-Friday in the mornings a few pop up.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, seller accepted the return.
> Do the refurbished 5040YB all have a replaced, reliable PSU ?
> Do the 6040UBs have the same PSU issue?
Click to expand...

Any 5040ub or 6040ub has a chance at a PSU issue. Our guess based on many people’s results are that the refurbished projectors are new and instead of them testing them individually for the defective PSU’s they are simply taking new stock, and putting them in refurbished boxes and shipping to us to test. Not all units had bad power supply’s, my guess is a bad manufacturing batch that was a big order and impossible to trace. So it’s hard to say if you will get a new one to test or an actual refurbished one with a new PSU. At least we have two years to stress run them to make sure nothing happens. 

If you don’t want to risk it grab a new 5050ub instead, I haven’t seen any complaints of power supply issues yet.


----------



## Gelfling

Okay. I finally had time this weekend and setup my new 5040ub (well, refurbished, but new to me). The menu said it had 0 bulb replacements and 0 hours. Looked new to me.

Anyway, right now I am running the unit off a Roku Premier (which outputs at 4k 60 fps). So, I made a bunch of saved profiles for the various settings listed here on the forums. Some were HDR, some non-HDR. What I have found is that no mater what I do, the color space is showing up as bt.709 no matter what I set it to in the settings. Even when I set color space to "bt.2020" and dynamic range to "SDR", its defaulting to bt.709. I assume that because the Roku is doing 60 fps, the 5040UB its bandwidth limited. I just want to make sure that the behavior I am seeing and the assumption I am making is correct. The only way I am going to see BT.2020 show up on the info screen is if I drop the fps to 24 (which would require a non-Roku source).

I should also note that I tried playing some of my MKV rips via PLEX, and they showed the same behavior, but they are all rips of standard bluerays, not 4K HDR bluerays.


----------



## mat82284

Gelfling said:


> Okay. I finally had time this weekend and setup my new 5040ub (well, refurbished, but new to me). The menu said it had 0 bulb replacements and 0 hours. Looked new to me.
> 
> Anyway, right now I am running the unit off a Roku Premier (which outputs at 4k 60 fps). So, I made a bunch of saved profiles for the various settings listed here on the forums. Some were HDR, some non-HDR. What I have found is that no mater what I do, the color space is showing up as bt.709 no matter what I set it to in the settings. Even when I set color space to "bt.2020" and dynamic range to "SDR", its defaulting to bt.709. I assume that because the Roku is doing 60 fps, the 5040UB its bandwidth limited. I just want to make sure that the behavior I am seeing and the assumption I am making is correct. The only way I am going to see BT.2020 show up on the info screen is if I drop the fps to 24 (which would require a non-Roku source).
> 
> I should also note that I tried playing some of my MKV rips via PLEX, and they showed the same behavior, but they are all rips of standard bluerays, not 4K HDR bluerays.


This is correct. On the 5050ub it would work, on our 5040ub were limited to 10gbps so HDR only works with 24fps on our projectors at 4k. If there is a setting on the roku similar that works similar to the apply tv 4K that allows you to turn on match frame rate and match dynamic range then you simply leave the settings at 4k SDR and when you load the movie with HDR (BT.2020) then it will automatically play at the 23.97 frame rate in 12 bit HDR (if the file you have has it). 

You are also correct that the same problem happens with plex since the frame rate isn’t determined by the app, but the device itself (roku)

You could get the HD fury that people have talked about in this thread to have it auto convert 12bit HDR to to 8 it HDR in-order to fit it in the 10gbps limit, or if you don’t play video games on your projector then you really don’t need the 4k 60fps HDR settings anyway since movies are recorded at 23.97FPS which works fine on the 5040ub. If the roku doesn’t have those settings like the Apple TV does or let you choose 24hz then your going to need another media device that does or use your PC and manually set it to 24hz. I personally like the Apple TV 4K setup with the the infuse app (over plexus) because I can play all audio formats like Dolby Atmos in 4k 12 bit HDR automatically. That saves me from having to manual switch between resolutions/color settings every time I go from a 4k hdr movie (or tv) to a SDR movie (or tv). The projector also has a auto HDR setting that reads the BT2020 data and applys it automatically making it even more automatic for me.

I posted some photos in the refurbished thread showing the projector in action with hdr and the menu showing that it’s in 4k HDR 12 bit 4:2:2 at 23.97fps

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...ub-1-151-00-a-29.html#/topics/3059050?page=85


----------



## Tom J. Davis

Received my refurb from Epson Friday. So far so good. 

Need some suggestions for 3D glasses. I have no clue which ones to get since I’ve never had 3D anything. 

Thanks!


----------



## marcosphoto

Gelfling said:


> Okay. I finally had time this weekend and setup my new 5040ub (well, refurbished, but new to me). The menu said it had 0 bulb replacements and 0 hours. Looked new to me.
> 
> Anyway, right now I am running the unit off a Roku Premier (which outputs at 4k 60 fps). So, I made a bunch of saved profiles for the various settings listed here on the forums. Some were HDR, some non-HDR. What I have found is that no mater what I do, the color space is showing up as bt.709 no matter what I set it to in the settings. Even when I set color space to "bt.2020" and dynamic range to "SDR", its defaulting to bt.709. I assume that because the Roku is doing 60 fps, the 5040UB its bandwidth limited. I just want to make sure that the behavior I am seeing and the assumption I am making is correct. The only way I am going to see BT.2020 show up on the info screen is if I drop the fps to 24 (which would require a non-Roku source.


 
Cannot attest much to other sources as I only currently use Blu-ray, but we all know that PJ cannot do 4K60/2020. The down-conversion is inevitable coming out of that source. I'd advise you check out other forums for your devices and see what those have to say rather than the PJ forum. There are options for conversion of the output as you know like HDfury products albeit that can get pricey. Can you not change the output of the Roku? Perhaps rooting it and installing some other apps to change it? I know a lot of these android boxes including shields have issues, stuck on 60 - but apparently it's not a fault of the box but rather the apps like Netflix are too simple and will not output at 4K/24 even though the box itself can be adjusted to do so. Again, examine other more appropriate forums for better answers - including the Nvidia Shield threads as most problem causers appear to be android apps rather than the boxes themselves I believe.

I personally regret buying the 5040 on "discontinued sales". It's a decent PJ in it's own right but with the 5050 so immensely more capable at a price that is not really that much more for what you get as far as future-proofing. I got a great deal plus a free bulb on the 5040 but I also got limited bandwidth which is causing owners problems and reliability issues looming overhead. (Although I am pretty confidant Epson repaired the issue back in late 2018 and only those getting old stock still seeing problems). I also got lesser HDR performance as the 5050 got much improvement there also. For an extra $800 and no free bulb I could of solved all my concerns - if only I knew then what I know now!


----------



## marcosphoto

Tom J. Davis said:


> Received my refurb from Epson Friday. So far so good.
> 
> Need some suggestions for 3D glasses. I have no clue which ones to get since I’ve never had 3D anything.
> 
> Thanks!



+1 on glasses suggestions. My wife and I both dislike anything 3D, and we typically do not watch or buy 3D sources. I can't even remember seeing a Blu-ray 3D - is there such? However I did want to have a pair of goggles on hand in case one day I want to go on a 3D visit or for visitors who like it. Because we don't like 3D, I don't think I want to spend loads of money on OEM glasses.


----------



## carlb1

Tom J. Davis said:


> Received my refurb from Epson Friday. So far so good.
> 
> Need some suggestions for 3D glasses. I have no clue which ones to get since I’ve never had 3D anything.
> 
> Thanks!


I have a pair of epson elpgs03 glasses that i got with my epson hc3500. I opened one box and tried one pair but really didn't like the 3d and put them away. the other box has never been opened.

Im not sure if these will work with the 5040 but you can research them

if your interested pm me with an offer.


----------



## noob00224

marcosphoto said:


> +1 on glasses suggestions. My wife and I both dislike anything 3D, and we typically do not watch or buy 3D sources. I can't even remember seeing a Blu-ray 3D - is there such?


There is a huge amount of 3D Blu rays, with some still being released. 3D is on it's way out, so you can choose the best stuff, which can often be found at a low price.
There is also 3D gaming.


----------



## coderguy

Gelfling said:


> Okay. I finally had time this weekend and setup my new 5040ub (well, refurbished, but new to me). The menu said it had 0 bulb replacements and 0 hours. Looked new to me.
> 
> Anyway, right now I am running the unit off a Roku Premier (which outputs at 4k 60 fps). So, I made a bunch of saved profiles for the various settings listed here on the forums. Some were HDR, some non-HDR. What I have found is that no mater what I do, the color space is showing up as bt.709 no matter what I set it to in the settings. Even when I set color space to "bt.2020" and dynamic range to "SDR", its defaulting to bt.709. I assume that because the Roku is doing 60 fps, the 5040UB its bandwidth limited. I just want to make sure that the behavior I am seeing and the assumption I am making is correct. The only way I am going to see BT.2020 show up on the info screen is if I drop the fps to 24 (which would require a non-Roku source).
> 
> I should also note that I tried playing some of my MKV rips via PLEX, and they showed the same behavior, but they are all rips of standard bluerays, not 4K HDR bluerays.


Get a Panny ub420 and use that for movies, use MadVR for rips. Per streaming, no real solution that I know of to this issue. The bigger issue is usually the gamma curve or tone mapping. The wider gamut is likely harder to notice than the gamma being off, if it is any consolation. You could just increase the saturation slightly and it might look similar.

Also, the Roku can be quite annoying as it keeps reverting back to 'AUTO' on my JVC RS-420, even when trying to force NON-HDR. Now I'm not sure if it forcing modes is interfering with color of NON-HDR content or not, hard to tell as I haven't watched that much NON-HDR yet.


----------



## Tom J. Davis

The Epson glasses are more than I want to spend. Any decent third party alternatives?


----------



## morty343

Tom J. Davis said:


> The Epson glasses are more than I want to spend. Any decent third party alternatives?



It doesn't sound like you read his whole reply to you.


----------



## Tom J. Davis

morty343 said:


> It doesn't sound like you read his whole reply to you.


I most certainly did but I’d rather order something from Amazon. No offense.


----------



## Superman2

Tom J. Davis said:


> The Epson glasses are more than I want to spend. Any decent third party alternatives?




I’ve had good luck on Kijiji with Samsung ssg glasses. Cheap and work well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

Superman2 said:


> I’ve had good luck on Kijiji with Samsung ssg glasses. Cheap and work well
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I’ve posted this before, but in an HT FB group, somebody said the Epson glasses operate at a higher frequency than other glasses (444 Hz) and this results in them rendering 3D better than other glasses. I’ve yet to read of a shootout comparing glasses but it might be something to bear in mind. Epson glasses are available on eBay for a range of prices.


----------



## Gelfling

I wanted to post a follow review on my refurbished 5040UB. As I posted elsewhere, I have been unable to get any sort of HDR working due to the limitation of my source (a roku). I have an extensive Blue Ray library, ripped as MKV's, but they are not 4k. I have watched a few movies and several episodes of "The Expanse" on Netflix, and I have to say I am quite happy with my purchase. I upgraded from an 8 year old JVC that was 1080p (it was regarded as a "light cannon" at the time), and the 5040UB looks significantly better to my eye, even when running with no HDR. I am using SDR settings posted here in this thread and I for one am a happy customer.

I think there is a tendency for this forum to serve as a watering hole for videophiles/audiophiles, and perhaps it would be helpful for us to sometimes take a step back and realize how far technology has come. HDR, SDR, gamma curves, fps....all of that stuff matters, but to a large portion of the population, its barely noticeable.

I spent ~1100 on this projector (and so far no issues with dust blobs or power failures), and while I'm sure a 5050UB, with its higher bandwidth does perform better, I don't feel that its $2700 price tag would be justifiable for me.

So, as with all things, take this post with a grain of salt. I for one, am happy with my investment. I have no buyer's regret.


----------



## gene4ht

Tom J. Davis said:


> The Epson glasses are more than I want to spend. Any decent third party alternatives?





Superman2 said:


> I’ve had good luck on Kijiji with Samsung ssg glasses. Cheap and work well
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





avtoronto said:


> I’ve posted this before, but in an HT FB group, somebody said the Epson glasses operate at a higher frequency than other glasses (444 Hz) and this results in them rendering 3D better than other glasses. I’ve yet to read of a shootout comparing glasses but it might be something to bear in mind. Epson glasses are available on eBay for a range of prices.


With 3D display manufacturers waning, it appears 3D glasses availability is following suit. Three years ago (2016) a member posted the review below suggesting the "ValueView" glasses were both inexpensive and functioned very well. As I bought six pair at the time, I can confirm his assessment. Unfortunately, the "ValueViews" are no longer available but could possibly be periodically found on eBay or Craigslist. In any case, the review does provide some valuable information and guidance/hints. However, it appears the Epson ELPGS03's are still available. In any case, based on the input/postings in this thread, 3D is still very much alive and enjoyed among AVS enthusiasts...especially member @*inspector* .

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html

https://www.amazon.com/ELPGS03-Glas...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


----------



## zombie10k

Tom J. Davis said:


> The Epson glasses are more than I want to spend. Any decent third party alternatives?


 Hi, you can pick up the popular Xpand X105-RF-X1 for under $40 at Amazon and Best Buy. 

https://www.amazon.com/XPAND-X105-RF-X1-Rechargeable-Bluetooth-Glasses/dp/B00BFO4XSA/

performance is the same as the Epson OEM glasses and have a larger field of view due to having larger lenses. 

For initial sync, you start a 3D movie and hold the power button on the glasses for 7-10 seconds for initial pairing. Then a quick 1 second tap for the next time you watch a 3D movie.


----------



## inspector

Thanks Gene! I bought another two ValueViews (for a total of 3) in late 2018 and the pair that I use are still going strong. I only wear glasses when viewing my PJ and the ValueViews have more room to fit them than the Epsons, which is why the wife uses them.


I'm up to 366 3Ders and 12 on the way!


Good luck in trying to find a pair of non-Epsons.


----------



## MrMonkeeMan

aili said:


> Hi, everyone.
> Ok, so I bought a fire stick 4k to stream Netflix.
> But Netflix doesn't show 4k option?
> Ive tried the trick with custom resolution, 4k 24hz 8bit, but still the same.
> Why?
> Can someone give me a hint please.


I believe the Firestick 4K won't stream Netflix 4K content, just Prime Video 4K content. I wish I would have known this before purchasing 3 sticks recently. 

Another issue is that the only title I have found with Dolby Atmos is "The Aeronauts". And to make matters worse, that movie will NOT play the Atmos audio if it is not streamed in 4K..... I haven't received my refurbished unit yet but I'm guessing the 4K version will not play on the 5040UB.

I found all this out by going back and forth to my Samsung 4K TV and my Benq HT1075, both with Atmos setups.


----------



## Justins123

Does the 5040 do anything when it sees an HDR signal? I know it cannot automatically change settings saved in memory based on seeing an HDR v. SDR signal. But does anything happen with the projector when an HDR signal is detected?


----------



## roland6465

Justins123 said:


> Does the 5040 do anything when it sees an HDR signal? I know it cannot automatically change settings saved in memory based on seeing an HDR v. SDR signal. But does anything happen with the projector when an HDR signal is detected?



The picture gets dim. You need to have one or two picture memories devoted to seperate HDR settings.


----------



## filipp2442

Anyone have a recommendation on one Bright Cinema setting for both HDR and Non HDR content? I feel like it's alot of work to swap between the two so curious if anyone has found settings that make both look decent.


----------



## inspector

I use the LOAD button on the remote for the different settings I have saved. When a BD color comes on, it automatically goes to my NATURAL BD. When I put on a UHD, I have to use the LOAD button for NATURAL UHD. Same goes for BD/SD B&W, I use my B&W CINEMA setting. It automatically goes to DYNAMIC for 3D. I use the LOAD button for B&W 3D CINEMA. 


The only setting I'm unsatisfied with is for UHD. NATURAL looks great for all my UHDers (11), but looks real ****ty for KING KONG, and that's the one I wanted it to look good for. Actually I have another two settings for UHD, BRIGHT and DIGITAL, but they still make KK look ****ty. 


So, I guess with UHD, it's a hit or miss with our PJs.


----------



## sleepingatsea

inspector said:


> The only setting I'm unsatisfied with is for UHD. NATURAL looks great for all my UHDers (11), but looks real ****ty for KING KONG, and that's the one I wanted it to look good for. Actually I have another two settings for UHD, BRIGHT and DIGITAL, but they still make KK look ****ty.
> 
> 
> So, I guess with UHD, it's a hit or miss with our PJs.


Honestly, Kong picture is pretty terrible on the disc. Its just filmed in a way with lots of wonky colours and film grain resulting in a very inconsistent picture. The skin tones are all over the place and I spent ages trying to make this look good. 
Every other 4k disc looks amazing on my settings so I'm putting this down to sources, not settings or projector. 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

I decided to drop the $100 (AUD) on the Epson 3D glasses last week. I REALLY love 3D movies and so far have been really happy with what this projector is capable of. I had 2 pairs of Panasonic glasses that came with my old plasma and they have been working fine, but I really wanted to see if the official Epson ones would give better results - and I really wanted the rechargeable option, I feel like I'm always changing those blasted watch batteries!

A little bit early to tell, but I watched Thor Ragnarok last night and these definitely gave a better image for me. Not sure why, but the depth was much greater? I still got crosstalk on certain scenes but pretty sure that is disc related but overall I got less 'blur' and felt less strain on my eyes. 

On these fronts, definitely happy with the purchase! I'll most likely grab a 2nd pair now so the wife can enjoy them also. My only one complaint is that I get light reflections coming through on the sides for some reason. It's a bit distracting and find myself constantly looking at it. Might need to put something across the side or something? Not sure if anyone else has had this issue.

Anyway, on to more 3D watching! Going to re-watch Alita shortly


----------



## spiroh

I am thinking of picking up a refurb to replace my Sony 45ES. Would the 5040ub with hd fury compete pretty good against the 5050UB? Thanks


----------



## failax

Brettmckinney said:


> Honestly, Kong picture is pretty terrible on the disc. Its just filmed in a way with lots of wonky colours and film grain resulting in a very inconsistent picture. The skin tones are all over the place and I spent ages trying to make this look good.
> Every other 4k disc looks amazing on my settings so I'm putting this down to sources, not settings or projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


What settings are you using for 4k movies with this pvr?


----------



## noob00224

spiroh said:


> I am thinking of picking up a refurb to replace my Sony 45ES. Would the 5040ub with hd fury compete pretty good against the 5050UB? Thanks


The Sony will have slightly better black levels in two scenarios:
1)In very dark scenes.
2)If the room is treated for reflections.

The Epson is brighter, has 4K, motorized lenses, doesn't handle motion as well as the Sony, has DCI P3 coverage.

The 5050UB is a general upgrade in all areas, especially with HDR. It also has an 18GB HDMI chip so no need for the HD Fury or Panasonic UB, can do 4K 60Hz HDR 10 bit.


----------



## RedPills4All

So I have tried almost every setting under the sun for HDR from Harpervision to Oledurt to Robc1976, and for me they all look terrible. I've seen all the example images people post and honestly they look amazing, and definitely nothing like what I'm getting. I've resulted to just telling the player to output SDR and just using out of the box Natural. It looks pretty good but nothing like what others on the forum are getting. Really need some guidance as to what I could be doing wrong here.

Setup:
Denon AVR (no video mods just all passthrough)
Sony X700
5040ub - Throw distance about 20'
Silver Ticket 127" 2.35:1 screen

Images either look super washed out, or they are so dark they are unwatchable. 

I have thought that maybe my player isn't outputting the right nits level. I don't see this as a configurable setting on the player. I can only set tv type to Projector or TV.

Does anyone have recommendations for what I should try next for HDR? I may just need to have it calibrated. But I was hoping to at least get something decent first.


----------



## Gelfling

scottjwoodford said:


> So I have tried almost every setting under the sun for HDR from Harpervision to Oledurt to Robc1976, and for me they all look terrible. I've seen all the example images people post and honestly they look amazing, and definitely nothing like what I'm getting. I've resulted to just telling the player to output SDR and just using out of the box Natural. It looks pretty good but nothing like what others on the forum are getting. Really need some guidance as to what I could be doing wrong here.
> 
> Setup:
> Denon AVR (no video mods just all passthrough)
> Sony X700
> 5040ub - Throw distance about 20'
> Silver Ticket 127" 2.35:1 screen
> 
> Images either look super washed out, or they are so dark they are unwatchable.
> 
> I have thought that maybe my player isn't outputting the right nits level. I don't see this as a configurable setting on the player. I can only set tv type to Projector or TV.
> 
> Does anyone have recommendations for what I should try next for HDR? I may just need to have it calibrated. But I was hoping to at least get something decent first.


Any chance you could try a different source? Also, what are the cable distance runs? Also, have you tried hooking the source directly to the projector (ie not though the AVR) just to rule that out.


----------



## RedPills4All

Gelfling said:


> Any chance you could try a different source? Also, what are the cable distance runs? Also, have you tried hooking the source directly to the projector (ie not though the AVR) just to rule that out.


Yes I've tried a different source. I actually got the Panasonic player to try it out since everyone on here uses it, but really no change and couldn't justify the price tag.

HDMI cable runs are 25', Monoprice certified high speed 4k cables.

I can certainly try to hook directly to the projector. Not a bad idea. I would be surprised if that's it though considering I'm not doing any video processing on the AVR. I'll check that tonight though and report back.

Thanks!


----------



## avtoronto

scottjwoodford said:


> Yes I've tried a different source. I actually got the Panasonic player to try it out since everyone on here uses it, but really no change and couldn't justify the price tag.
> 
> HDMI cable runs are 25', Monoprice certified high speed 4k cables.
> 
> I can certainly try to hook directly to the projector. Not a bad idea. I would be surprised if that's it though considering I'm not doing any video processing on the AVR. I'll check that tonight though and report back.
> 
> Thanks!


When you had the Panny, did you engage the HDR optimizer? Did you try both the SDR/ and HDR/2020 output selections? Does the Sony do any tone mapping? For settings that look good but don’t engage the REC2020 filter, try the ones on this page: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html


----------



## mat82284

scottjwoodford said:


> So I have tried almost every setting under the sun for HDR from Harpervision to Oledurt to Robc1976, and for me they all look terrible. I've seen all the example images people post and honestly they look amazing, and definitely nothing like what I'm getting. I've resulted to just telling the player to output SDR and just using out of the box Natural. It looks pretty good but nothing like what others on the forum are getting. Really need some guidance as to what I could be doing wrong here.
> 
> Setup:
> Denon AVR (no video mods just all passthrough)
> Sony X700
> 5040ub - Throw distance about 20'
> Silver Ticket 127" 2.35:1 screen
> 
> Images either look super washed out, or they are so dark they are unwatchable.
> 
> I have thought that maybe my player isn't outputting the right nits level. I don't see this as a configurable setting on the player. I can only set tv type to Projector or TV.
> 
> Does anyone have recommendations for what I should try next for HDR? I may just need to have it calibrated. But I was hoping to at least get something decent first.


A few additional notes. Just remember the HDR on this projector can only work at 23.97FPS because of the 10gbps limit. With that said, how are you testing the HDR? Do you have the Sony x700 bluray player set to output the movies at 24hz? If not maybe the player is autoswitching to SDR because of the bandwidth limitation of the projector. 

Also check your receiver and minimize everything. Start by removing the HDMI cable going to your TV, then check to see if it works. If it works, then you may have to move the output setting on your reciever from Dual to a single hdmi output then swap them when you want to switch. On my denon receiver I have this problem, I still cant figure out whats the cause other than the projectors limitations vs my TV's. My screen would flicker every few seconds when i had it in dual output mode along with both my tv and 5040ub connected. As soon as I removed the cable to my tv this no longer happened. My only fix is to manually switch between displays to get it to work. I'm guessing that the issue is related to the TV requesting a 4:4:4 chroma and the projector unable to use it because of the limits which results in an hdmi handshaking issue. 

This is probably not your issue, but I figured I'd mention it encase its similarly affecting your hdr output instead of causing screen flickering.


----------



## pete ramberg

Blanking question - can blanking information be stored with the lens memory settings with the 5040??


----------



## RedPills4All

avtoronto said:


> When you had the Panny, did you engage the HDR optimizer? Did you try both the SDR/ and HDR/2020 output selections? Does the Sony do any tone mapping? For settings that look good but don’t engage the REC2020 filter, try the ones on this page: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html


Yes I tried both settings with the Panny, and I did try the HDR optimizer. It did brighten the picture a bit but it still looked crappy in my opinion. The sony does do tone mapping from what I understand. The HDR setting is either Auto or Off, and I have tried it off. It looks much better when off, but the whole idea is I would really like to do HDR.

I tried those settings and they are pretty good, but they still seem very dark for HDR scenes. The movie I'm looking at now is Batman Begins. It just looks terrible. Super dark, slightly blurry. It's not what I would expect a 4k HDR film to look like.


----------



## RedPills4All

pete ramberg said:


> Blanking question - can blanking information be stored with the lens memory settings with the 5040??


No unfortunately not. And this really sucks when switching from 2.35 to 16x9. You have to remove the blanking, and then re-add it again manually next time you go back to 2.35.


----------



## RedPills4All

mat82284 said:


> A few additional notes. Just remember the HDR on this projector can only work at 23.97FPS because of the 10gbps limit. With that said, how are you testing the HDR? Do you have the Sony x700 bluray player set to output the movies at 24hz? If not maybe the player is autoswitching to SDR because of the bandwidth limitation of the projector.
> 
> Also check your receiver and minimize everything. Start by removing the HDMI cable going to your TV, then check to see if it works. If it works, then you may have to move the output setting on your reciever from Dual to a single hdmi output then swap them when you want to switch. On my denon receiver I have this problem, I still cant figure out whats the cause other than the projectors limitations vs my TV's. My screen would flicker every few seconds when i had it in dual output mode along with both my tv and 5040ub connected. As soon as I removed the cable to my tv this no longer happened. My only fix is to manually switch between displays to get it to work. I'm guessing that the issue is related to the TV requesting a 4:4:4 chroma and the projector unable to use it because of the limits which results in an hdmi handshaking issue.
> 
> This is probably not your issue, but I figured I'd mention it encase its similarly affecting your hdr output instead of causing screen flickering.


Thanks for all the input. So I have set the Sony to Auto for pretty much everything, including these 2 settings:

*24p Output* - Outputs 24p video signals only when you connect a 24p-compatible TV via an HDMI connection and the [Output Video Resolution] is set to [Auto], [1080p] or [4K].

*[Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM]* - [Auto]: Outputs 24 Hz video signals only when connecting a 24p-compatible TV using the HDMI OUT jack. / [On]: Turns on the function. / [Off]: Select this when your TV is not
compatible with 24p video signals.

Should I force them to on instead of Auto? Or is there a way to verify it's set correctly?

I also have the following setting set to Auto, but I'm wondering if I need to force to 4:2:2?

*[YCbCr/RGB (HDMI)]* - [Auto]: Automatically detects the connected TV type, and switches to the matching color setting. / [YCbCr (4:2:2)]: Outputs YCbCr 4:2:2 video signals. / [YCbCr (4:4:4)]: Outputs YCbCr 4:4:4 video signals. / [RGB]: Outputs RGB video signals.

As for the Denon, I don't use any kind of dual output. I only have one HDMI cable running from the Denon output to the projector. So I think that's prob not the issue then, but I could be wrong. I definitely don't see any screen flickering either. Just really bad quality HDR no matter what.


----------



## Natrix1973

scottjwoodford said:


> Thanks for all the input. So I have set the Sony to Auto for pretty much everything, including these 2 settings:
> 
> *24p Output* - Outputs 24p video signals only when you connect a 24p-compatible TV via an HDMI connection and the [Output Video Resolution] is set to [Auto], [1080p] or [4K].
> 
> *[Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM]* - [Auto]: Outputs 24 Hz video signals only when connecting a 24p-compatible TV using the HDMI OUT jack. / [On]: Turns on the function. / [Off]: Select this when your TV is not
> compatible with 24p video signals.
> 
> Should I force them to on instead of Auto? Or is there a way to verify it's set correctly?
> 
> I also have the following setting set to Auto, but I'm wondering if I need to force to 4:2:2?
> 
> *[YCbCr/RGB (HDMI)]* - [Auto]: Automatically detects the connected TV type, and switches to the matching color setting. / [YCbCr (4:2:2)]: Outputs YCbCr 4:2:2 video signals. / [YCbCr (4:4:4)]: Outputs YCbCr 4:4:4 video signals. / [RGB]: Outputs RGB video signals.
> 
> As for the Denon, I don't use any kind of dual output. I only have one HDMI cable running from the Denon output to the projector. So I think that's prob not the issue then, but I could be wrong. I definitely don't see any screen flickering either. Just really bad quality HDR no matter what.


What model is your Denon AVR? I did see something online that they recommend using an HDMI port on the AVR closer to the output HDMI port for 4k/HDR passthrough. On Yamaha receivers, you need to get into a special menu to change the HDMI mode for the higher bandwidth. I don't know if Denon has that sort of setting. 

EDIT: I did see in a Denon video to change the 4k signal format setting from standard to enhanced.

Are you plugged into HDMI 1 on the projector? That is the only HDMI input on the projector that is HDCP 2.2.

Batman Begins is also not one of the better titles for judging 4K/HDR.


----------



## mat82284

scottjwoodford said:


> Thanks for all the input. So I have set the Sony to Auto for pretty much everything, including these 2 settings:
> 
> *24p Output* - Outputs 24p video signals only when you connect a 24p-compatible TV via an HDMI connection and the [Output Video Resolution] is set to [Auto], [1080p] or [4K].
> 
> *[Ultra HD Blu-ray/BD-ROM]* - [Auto]: Outputs 24 Hz video signals only when connecting a 24p-compatible TV using the HDMI OUT jack. / [On]: Turns on the function. / [Off]: Select this when your TV is not
> compatible with 24p video signals.
> 
> Should I force them to on instead of Auto? Or is there a way to verify it's set correctly?
> 
> I also have the following setting set to Auto, but I'm wondering if I need to force to 4:2:2?
> 
> *[YCbCr/RGB (HDMI)]* - [Auto]: Automatically detects the connected TV type, and switches to the matching color setting. / [YCbCr (4:2:2)]: Outputs YCbCr 4:2:2 video signals. / [YCbCr (4:4:4)]: Outputs YCbCr 4:4:4 video signals. / [RGB]: Outputs RGB video signals.
> 
> As for the Denon, I don't use any kind of dual output. I only have one HDMI cable running from the Denon output to the projector. So I think that's prob not the issue then, but I could be wrong. I definitely don't see any screen flickering either. Just really bad quality HDR no matter what.


You should be able to get away with Auto on all your bluray settings since its supposed to detect what the source can handle. What denon model do you have? How long is your HDMI cable? Is it fiber optic? Have you tried connecting the bluray player directly to the projector with your long hdmi and bringing it closer with as short hdmi for more testing? 

I'd start by just trying to get HDR output from the bluray source without the reciever, then once that is accomplished re-add the reciver into the mix. 

Question about the bluray player. Does it change the resolution based on the disk information when its inserted or is the resolution set prior to puting in a blu-ray? If the player does get its information from the disk then it should auto switch to 24p/hdr when a disk that supports it is used. If the player doesnt auto adjust based on each blu-ray then its possible that your bluray player is auto set to 4k 60hz HDR (which is what causes dim images from lost information not being transmitted through the hdmi cable), some media players will just cause a black screen, but there might be some that tries to output something thinking its compatible, but not realizing that its only compatible at 24hz. 

Another thought, make sure your going in the epson menu under HDR and select bright auto, this should auto adjust the hdr settings based on the data its receiving from the blu-ray.

Also what firmware is on your 5040ub projector? I've read that the newer firmware has been modified to fix HDR issues which might be related to the auto detecting of the signal, but its hard to say since they dont publish anything on them. I'd suggest upgrading to 114 if you dont have it on because epson said that it fixes power issues.

EDIT:

I've attached some photos of how HDR is showing on my setup along with how it looks. These were streaming from Disney+ and Itunes. Some images have a little blur to them, but thats because I took it the photos with my iphone while it was playing. The HDR image on the 5040ub looks much better than SDR, but its not HDR like you might have seen on an LCD tv or OLED TV.


----------



## mat82284

Natrix1973 said:


> What model is your Denon AVR? I did see something online that they recommend using an HDMI port on the AVR closer to the output HDMI port for 4k/HDR passthrough. On Yamaha receivers, you need to get into a special menu to change the HDMI mode for the higher bandwidth. I don't know if Denon has that sort of setting.
> 
> Are you plugged into HDMI 1 on the projector? That is the only HDMI input on the projector that is HDCP 2.2.
> 
> Batman Begins is also not one of the better titles for judging 4K/HDR.


I agree, use a bluray with animation for the best HDR, or if his bluray lets you run disney+ (or has a media player that can) thats an easier way to get access to those movies for testing. 

As for Denon, my x4300h doesnt have any speical menu's so he probably doesnt have that either unless new ones have them. He should connect his bluray to the hdmi closest to the output. For example I set have my apple tv connected connected to hdmi 7, and used the menu system to move it to the media player button. On my denon I have all video processing turned off, hdmi arc/passthrough turned off and I'm getting HDR just fine with my apple tv. Their are alot of receivers that cant pass hdr signals so it really depends on the model he has, its possible that the reciver is not compatible, or too long of an hdmi cable (30ft plus) thats not fiberoptic.


----------



## avtoronto

mat82284 said:


> I agree, use a bluray with animation for the best HDR, or if his bluray lets you run disney+ (or has a media player that can) thats an easier way to get access to those movies for testing.
> 
> As for Denon, my x4300h doesnt have any speical menu's so he probably doesnt have that either unless new ones have them. He should connect his bluray to the hdmi closest to the output. For example I set have my apple tv connected connected to hdmi 7, and used the menu system to move it to the media player button. On my denon I have all video processing turned off, hdmi arc/passthrough turned off and I'm getting HDR just fine with my apple tv. Their are alot of receivers that cant pass hdr signals so it really depends on the model he has, its possible that the reciver is not compatible, or too long of an hdmi cable (30ft plus) thats not fiberoptic.


I have a Denon. I put it in Extended mode to pass through HDR signals. Would be helpful for us to see the output showing when OP selects Information on the projector menu.


----------



## avtoronto

mat82284 said:


> You should be able to get away with Auto on all your bluray settings since its supposed to detect what the source can handle. What denon model do you have? How long is your HDMI cable? Is it fiber optic? Have you tried connecting the bluray player directly to the projector with your long hdmi and bringing it closer with as short hdmi for more testing?
> 
> I'd start by just trying to get HDR output from the bluray source without the reciever, then once that is accomplished re-add the reciver into the mix.
> 
> Question about the bluray player. Does it change the resolution based on the disk information when its inserted or is the resolution set prior to puting in a blu-ray? If the player does get its information from the disk then it should auto switch to 24p/hdr when a disk that supports it is used. If the player doesnt auto adjust based on each blu-ray then its possible that your bluray player is auto set to 4k 60hz HDR (which is what causes dim images from lost information not being transmitted through the hdmi cable), some media players will just cause a black screen, but there might be some that tries to output something thinking its compatible, but not realizing that its only compatible at 24hz.
> 
> Another thought, make sure your going in the epson menu under HDR and select bright auto, this should auto adjust the hdr settings based on the data its receiving from the blu-ray.
> 
> Also what firmware is on your 5040ub projector? I've read that the newer firmware has been modified to fix HDR issues which might be related to the auto detecting of the signal, but its hard to say since they dont publish anything on them. I'd suggest upgrading to 114 if you dont have it on because epson said that it fixes power issues.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I've attached some photos of how HDR is showing on my setup along with how it looks. These were streaming from Disney+ and Itunes. Some images have a little blur to them, but thats because I took it the photos with my iphone while it was playing. The HDR image on the 5040ub looks much better than SDR, but its not HDR like you might have seen on an LCD tv or OLED TV.


Nice images. Curious what settings you're using - Digital Cinema-based?


----------



## Frichard

I receive my 5040UB refurb yesterday. It's replacing a Sony 45es. 



I fiddle a bit with it and so far I'm really happy with the image. Beside motion everything is better then on the 45es in my opinion.


The only thing I really hate is the noise it produce. It's so loud. Even the eco setting is louder then the high lamp mode on the 45es.
And to me the High setting on the 5040 is unbearable.


I also got some grey blob on a black screen. I didn't try to clean the lenses yet but my guess is dust blob. Maybe I will need to exchange it.


----------



## mat82284

avtoronto said:


> Nice images. Curious what settings you're using - Digital Cinema-based?


I have it set to Medium bulb power, Auto bright HDR setting, and for color its set to bright cinema. Dynamic also looks good, but for me i feel like bright cinema is good enough at least until the hours kick in and the bulb dims a little over time. 



Frichard said:


> I receive my 5040UB refurb yesterday. It's replacing a Sony 45es.
> 
> 
> 
> I fiddle a bit with it and so far I'm really happy with the image. Beside motion everything is better then on the 45es in my opinion.
> 
> 
> The only thing I really hate is the noise it produce. It's so loud. Even the eco setting is louder then the high lamp mode on the 45es.
> And to me the High setting on the 5040 is unbearable.
> 
> 
> I also got some grey blob on a black screen. I didn't try to clean the lenses yet but my guess is dust blob. Maybe I will need to exchange it.


My first refurbished one died after a 1 hour of use. The second one has a dust blob as well, but its only noticable when its a black screen. I talked to epson and they told me that they cant send me a replacement sincs its out of stock. They also wouldnt hold any for me, or put me on a wait list. The person was nice enough to tell me that this is because im within the first 30 days before the warranty kicks in (stupid considering we cant return refurbished units anyways), but he said after 30 days they utilize a different stock and I can call back then to easily get a replacement sent.

At this point I've decided that I'm going to live with it and use the defect to my advantage. I'm thinking that I'll may just wait until closer to the end of my warranty to try and get it fixed and hope that by then they no longer have replacement parts, or refurbished 5040's laying around and they will instead have to send me a refurbished 4050. If i read on the forums that some have been getting 4050's as replacements much earlier then ill reach out sooner. If that doesnt work out at least the other benefit to waiting is that you get a a new lamp if the unit is replaced underwarranty.

Also mine is really quiet unless im in high power mode. The fan is actually wisper quiet and sits directly above my head... Check if any altitude settings are one, if not do a factory reset, and update the firmware if your not on 114. Do you have it mounted to the ceiling?


----------



## Frichard

mat82284 said:


> At this point I've decided that I'm going to live with it and use the defect to my advantage. I'm thinking that I'll may just wait until closer to the end of my warranty to try and get it fixed and hope that by then they no longer have replacement parts, or refurbished 5040's laying around and they will instead have to send me a refurbished 4050. If i read on the forums that some have been getting 4050's as replacements much earlier then ill reach out sooner. If that doesnt work out at least the other benefit to waiting is that you get a a new lamp if the unit is replaced underwarranty.
> 
> Also mine is really quiet unless im in high power mode. The fan is actually wisper quiet and sits directly above my head... Check if any altitude settings are one, if not do a factory reset, and update the firmware if your not on 114. Do you have it mounted to the ceiling?



I would love to get it replace by a 5050 ha ha!


Yeah I just read in a review that it should be quieter then my 45es in eco mode. It's louder then 45es high lamp in eco righ now! I did check the high altitude and update to 114 yesterday.
There's definitely something wrong then. And yes it is ceiling mounted.


----------



## noob00224

mat82284 said:


> I have it set to Medium bulb power, Auto bright HDR setting, and for color its set to bright cinema. Dynamic also looks good, but for me i feel like bright cinema is good enough at least until the hours kick in and the bulb dims a little over time.
> 
> 
> 
> My first refurbished one died after a 1 hour of use. The second one has a dust blob as well, but its only noticable when its a black screen. I talked to epson and they told me that they cant send me a replacement sincs its out of stock. They also wouldnt hold any for me, or put me on a wait list. The person was nice enough to tell me that this is because im within the first 30 days before the warranty kicks in (stupid considering we cant return refurbished units anyways), but he said after 30 days they utilize a different stock and I can call back then to easily get a replacement sent.
> 
> At this point I've decided that I'm going to live with it and use the defect to my advantage. I'm thinking that I'll may just wait until closer to the end of my warranty to try and get it fixed and hope that by then they no longer have replacement parts, or refurbished 5040's laying around and they will instead have to send me a refurbished 4050. If i read on the forums that some have been getting 4050's as replacements much earlier then ill reach out sooner. If that doesnt work out at least the other benefit to waiting is that you get a a new lamp if the unit is replaced underwarranty.
> 
> Also mine is really quiet unless im in high power mode. The fan is actually wisper quiet and sits directly above my head... Check if any altitude settings are one, if not do a factory reset, and update the firmware if your not on 114. Do you have it mounted to the ceiling?


The HC4xxx series is the HC5xxx series but with much worse black levels.
Lenses are said to be somewhat inferior to the HC5xxx series.


----------



## mat82284

Frichard said:


> I would love to get it replace by a 5050 ha ha!
> 
> 
> Yeah I just read in a review that it should be quieter then my 45es in eco mode. It's louder then 45es high lamp in eco righ now! I did check the high altitude and update to 114 yesterday.
> There's definitely something wrong then. And yes it is ceiling mounted.


I'm not really sure how loud these should be, but mine is quieter than my old 5020ub projector and that had a 32db rating in high lamp mode (which i ran it on with 3d movies) and 20db in eco. The 5040 is rating at 31db in high, and 22db in eco which i find quite odd since its quieter than my 5020ub in eco mode. 

Your 45es your talking about, is that the VPL-HW45ES? If so its rating at 22db and that projector should be as loud as this one in eco mode. If yours is louder then maybe its more defective somehow... or maybe filter isnt fully installed correctly. I'd double check the filter to make sure, I'd also maybe even open the lamp door to make sure its fully seated correctly and didnt move durring shipping because even a minor shift inbetween the electrical connections can create increased resistance which could also causes voltage drops which may cause issues related to the fan if the thermometer epson uses in these projectors happens to be on the same circuit. 



noob00224 said:


> The HC4xxx series is the HC5xxx series but with much worse black levels.
> Lenses are said to be somewhat inferior to the HC5xxx series.


Good to know. The only reason I wouldnt mind the upgrade to the 4050 is for the 18gbps hdmi input that way I can wireup my PC to my projector and play some 4k HDR games at 60hz on it in the future. I rarely game these days, but it would be a nice option to have one day down the road if i ended up getting it upgraded for free by epson.


----------



## noob00224

mat82284 said:


> Good to know. The only reason I wouldnt mind the upgrade to the 4050 is for the 18gbps hdmi input that way I can wireup my PC to my projector and play some 4k HDR games at 60hz on it in the future. I rarely game these days, but it would be a nice option to have one day down the road if i ended up getting it upgraded for free by epson.


The HC4010 and 4050, as well as the older 4000/4040 and 5040/6040UB have a 10GB HDMI chip. Only the 5050/6050UB and HC3200/3800 have 18GB.


----------



## pete ramberg

scottjwoodford said:


> No unfortunately not. And this really sucks when switching from 2.35 to 16x9. You have to remove the blanking, and then re-add it again manually next time you go back to 2.35.


Thanks for the reply. I have a 5050 and saving blanking info works fine. My friend has a 5040 and was asking about it...


----------



## sleepingatsea

There are a few new people here who seem to be struggling to get a good picture and while there are definitely some good trouble shooting tips being discussed, I thought I would post my current settings for those to try. These have come from previous posts and then tweaked a bit - honestly can't remember who's they were now originally! 

*1080p/4K (REC709/SDR2020)* - These settings can be used for 1080p bluray, PS4 4K (no HDR) or using SDR2020 from your source.

Picture: Natural
Brightness: 51
Contrast: 62
Color Saturation: 50
Tint: 50
Sharpness: 9,9,9
Color Temp: 6000k
Skin Tone: 4
Image Enhancement: Preset 3 

Advanced -
Gamma -1
RGBCMY -
R 60,70,34
G 56,60,44
B 95,79,33
C 51,14,77
M 47, 44, 47
Y 52,58,44
Epson Super White: Off
Power: Medium
Auto Iris: Normal

Signal->Advanced-
Dynamic Range: SDR
HDMI Video Range: Normal
Colour Space: Auto
Image: Fine

These settings give a really bright stunning picture for me! I currently have my Panny 820UB set to SDR2020 and so this setting works for both 4K discs and 1080p bluray now. Easy!

I also have the settings below, for using HarperVision which were tweaked by Sbuger - they work really great when setting your source to send full HDR BT2020. So if you can't set your source to SDR2020, then you should definitely try these out.

*HarperVision (tweaked) 4K HDR BT2020*

Picture: Bright Cinema
Brightness: 40
Contrast: 100
Color Saturation: 74
Tint: 50
Sharpness: 9,9,9
Color Temp: 4
Skin Tone: 4
Image Enhancement: 3

Gamma: Custom
0,-15,-24,-26,-27,-20,-26,+16,+31

Power: Eco
RGBCMY - All at 50
Signal->Advanced-
Dynamic Range: SDR
HDMI Video Range: Normal
Colour Space: Auto
Image: Fine

This is super bright and punchy with strong colors and looks amazing on all disks I've tried. I've compared to the above SDR2020 and it's pretty close so I'm now using those instead.

Hope these help somewhat


----------



## Chad T

scottjwoodford said:


> pete ramberg said:
> 
> 
> 
> Blanking question - can blanking information be stored with the lens memory settings with the 5040??
> 
> 
> 
> No unfortunately not. And this really sucks when switching from 2.35 to 16x9. You have to remove the blanking, and then re-add it again manually next time you go back to 2.35.
Click to expand...

I guess I don’t see this as a problem. With 2.35 content, blanking does nothing. I was hoping it would completely black out the designated area (eliminating the need for masks) but it really just reduces the signal to the black level floor of the projector. Which is pretty much the same as just having the black bars there anyway. Am I missing something?


----------



## RedPills4All

Natrix1973 said:


> What model is your Denon AVR? I did see something online that they recommend using an HDMI port on the AVR closer to the output HDMI port for 4k/HDR passthrough. On Yamaha receivers, you need to get into a special menu to change the HDMI mode for the higher bandwidth. I don't know if Denon has that sort of setting.
> 
> EDIT: I did see in a Denon video to change the 4k signal format setting from standard to enhanced.
> 
> Are you plugged into HDMI 1 on the projector? That is the only HDMI input on the projector that is HDCP 2.2.
> 
> Batman Begins is also not one of the better titles for judging 4K/HDR.


I have the Denon AVR-X6400h. All ports are HDCP 2.2. I believe I have it hooked up to the "Monitor (ARC)" port which says 2.2/4K. There is a "Zone2" port farther to the left closer to the inputs, but I doubt that would make a difference.

I already have the 4k signal format set to Enhanced. And yes I'm using HDMI1 on the projector. For grins, I double checked last night and I can confirm the projector is showing HDR BT2020 4K. So I know it's not a port issue, not getting the proper signal, etc.. That's why this is so disappointing/strange.

I agree Batman Begins is not a great reference. I put in Dark Knight in after that and it's a million times better. Of course I'm watching it on SDR, cause of my HDR prob. 

Thanks for the suggestions. Maybe I just need to have this calibrated for my room? I just can't believe it's THAT different of a setup that everyone else's. Completely light controlled, dedicated theater, Silver ticket 127", the Denon, and the Sony BD. I can't even find a calibrator in the Northern Virginia area. Know of anyone good?


----------



## RedPills4All

mat82284 said:


> You should be able to get away with Auto on all your bluray settings since its supposed to detect what the source can handle. What denon model do you have? How long is your HDMI cable? Is it fiber optic? Have you tried connecting the bluray player directly to the projector with your long hdmi and bringing it closer with as short hdmi for more testing?
> 
> I'd start by just trying to get HDR output from the bluray source without the reciever, then once that is accomplished re-add the reciver into the mix.
> 
> Question about the bluray player. Does it change the resolution based on the disk information when its inserted or is the resolution set prior to puting in a blu-ray? If the player does get its information from the disk then it should auto switch to 24p/hdr when a disk that supports it is used. If the player doesnt auto adjust based on each blu-ray then its possible that your bluray player is auto set to 4k 60hz HDR (which is what causes dim images from lost information not being transmitted through the hdmi cable), some media players will just cause a black screen, but there might be some that tries to output something thinking its compatible, but not realizing that its only compatible at 24hz.
> 
> Another thought, make sure your going in the epson menu under HDR and select bright auto, this should auto adjust the hdr settings based on the data its receiving from the blu-ray.
> 
> Also what firmware is on your 5040ub projector? I've read that the newer firmware has been modified to fix HDR issues which might be related to the auto detecting of the signal, but its hard to say since they dont publish anything on them. I'd suggest upgrading to 114 if you dont have it on because epson said that it fixes power issues.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> I've attached some photos of how HDR is showing on my setup along with how it looks. These were streaming from Disney+ and Itunes. Some images have a little blur to them, but thats because I took it the photos with my iphone while it was playing. The HDR image on the 5040ub looks much better than SDR, but its not HDR like you might have seen on an LCD tv or OLED TV.


I have the Denon AVR-X6400h. The cables are regular high speed HDMI 2.2/4K from Monoprice. The one thing I haven't tried is connecting directly to the projector, which I'm just waiting for the right opportunity. Some folks are coming over tonight for a movie so I'll have to do it Fri. This is a good suggestion though. It would be really strange if the AVR was causing issues. It's a pretty good/high-end model and I have video processing turned off.

I'm not really sure on how the 24p works on the player, other than it's set to Auto. I will tell you that when I look at projector info when watching a Blu Ray it does show 23.97Hz. That should be correct right? And it does show 4K, HDR, BT2020.

I've tried Auto Bright, and it probably is the best setting. Digital Cinema looks terrible. Dim and washed out. Same with Auto. Auto bright is a bit better but still not great. And again, I've tried Harpervision, OD, and many, MANY other settings and they honestly look terrible on my setup. Could it be you all are using better screens? I thought the Silver Ticket 4K screen I got was pretty standard on these boards.

I'm finding that HDR on the default "Dynamic" setting is tolerable (saw this last night). However, on bright scenes the whites are totally blown out like crazy, and they KILL my eyes. And the screen does flicker dim to light during certain scenes. You can see it adjusting. But in dark scenes it does look fantastic. If I could replicate that and get the bright scenes to look as good I would be happy.

So far the only thing that looks good is forcing the player to SDR and using Natural with some minor adjustments. But no HDR. 

As for firmware, I think it's 1.12. The projector shows a long string of numbers followed by 112. I'm not at home so I can't tell you with 100% certainty. Can you confirm what the latest firmware should show for both the firmware numbers listed (i think one is system and one is video)? Thanks for all the help.


----------



## pete ramberg

Chad T said:


> I guess I don’t see this as a problem. With 2.35 content, blanking does nothing. I was hoping it would completely black out the designated area (eliminating the need for masks) but it really just reduces the signal to the black level floor of the projector. Which is pretty much the same as just having the black bars there anyway. Am I missing something?


You can definitely see the black blanking horizontal edge as it comes down (or up) to fill in the current black bars. So, yes, I see a difference.


----------



## RedPills4All

Chad T said:


> I guess I don’t see this as a problem. With 2.35 content, blanking does nothing. I was hoping it would completely black out the designated area (eliminating the need for masks) but it really just reduces the signal to the black level floor of the projector. Which is pretty much the same as just having the black bars there anyway. Am I missing something?


So you are using a 16x9 screen? Yes blanking is not going to remove the black bars and effectively eliminate the need for a mask unfortunately. What it will do is crop the output of the actual viewable picture.

I have a 2.35:1 screen. I only use blanking so that variable aspect ratio films (ie. Darknight, Dunkirk, etc...) will not shoot off my screen during aspect changes to 16x9. it crops the video to the edge of the screen on the top and bottom. Otherwise during one of those AR changes, it would shoot on the wall.


----------



## mat82284

scottjwoodford said:


> I have the Denon AVR-X6400h. The cables are regular high speed HDMI 2.2/4K from Monoprice. The one thing I haven't tried is connecting directly to the projector, which I'm just waiting for the right opportunity. Some folks are coming over tonight for a movie so I'll have to do it Fri. This is a good suggestion though. It would be really strange if the AVR was causing issues. It's a pretty good/high-end model and I have video processing turned off.


The Denon X6400h is just like my x4300h except its a little newer and 11.1 channels so your avr should work perfectly fine. What input are you using for your bluray player? Denon suggests using inputs closer to the outputs for lower resistance because of the smaller distance the hdmi input has to travel through the board. Denon recommends the last 3 inputs, so inputs 5,6,7 if the last 3 on your receiver is 5,6,7 ect... 

I'd still suggest trying it without the receiver. If your current HDMI cord reaches the bluway player try that for now. If you get better HDR then something in the AVR is the issue and I'd start with a factory reset. If its still Dim, try the next step and move the bd player near the projector with a short hdmi cord. If that also fails, then my next suggestion is to try a media player that supports 4k hdr output at 24p like an apple tv (or others, Im just not sure whats been confirmed or not, maybe others can chime in). 

Or if you have a PC/laptop you can hdmi output to the projector with and can manually set it to 24p HDR and run netflix/disney+ for testing that will help you diagnoise this further. There's only 4 things it can be, the projector, the avr, the bluray player, or the hdmi cords. 



scottjwoodford said:


> I'm not really sure on how the 24p works on the player, other than it's set to Auto. I will tell you that when I look at projector info when watching a Blu Ray it does show 23.97Hz. That should be correct right? And it does show 4K, HDR, BT2020.


23.97 is what you want, so thats correct. Does it show what its running at other than just BT.2020? like is it showing 4:4:4 or 4:2:2? The projector only supports 4:2:2 signals so if a 4:4:4 signal is being sent that could be part of the issue. If thats the case, try and force a 4:2:2 signal and see what happens. 



scottjwoodford said:


> I've tried Auto Bright, and it probably is the best setting. Digital Cinema looks terrible. Dim and washed out. Same with Auto. Auto bright is a bit better but still not great. And again, I've tried Harpervision, OD, and many, MANY other settings and they honestly look terrible on my setup. Could it be you all are using better screens? I thought the Silver Ticket 4K screen I got was pretty standard on these boards.
> 
> I'm finding that HDR on the default "Dynamic" setting is tolerable (saw this last night). However, on bright scenes the whites are totally blown out like crazy, and they KILL my eyes. And the screen does flicker dim to light during certain scenes. You can see it adjusting. But in dark scenes it does look fantastic. If I could replicate that and get the bright scenes to look as good I would be happy.
> 
> So far the only thing that looks good is forcing the player to SDR and using Natural with some minor adjustments. But no HDR.


I highly doubt the screen material has any effect on the brightness, but it might affect the colors? I'm not sure, or an expert on screen material. I'd ask around about that one. I dont use digital cinema, that is far to dim for me. I run mine on the bright cinema setting, or dynamic with the HDR settings set to autobrights (but im on 114 firmware since that is what came with my projector)

Im using the Elite Screens Spectrum Tab-Tension 125"Screen. Maybe the silver screen is the reason why your brightness flickering goes up and down (hopefully someone else can answer this), or its possible that your brain is just more sensitive to strobe effects and you notice suttle abrupt changes in wave lengths that most of us cant. 

SDR does look amazing on its own because of the epson color enhancements, so its possible that your just used to the higher brightness of SDR and to you when you see HDR the loss of brightness makes the image look worse than the brighter colors. With projectors HDR's main downfall is the brightness and when we take photos with out cameras thats the one thing that you cant replicate online since everyones camera/phone will autoadjust the expose and brightness of the photo to make it look good. The other factor is your computer screens brightness ect... It'ss possible that the brightness of the photos you see online are an illusion to what your expecting on the screen and what you see as not as good, is great to others. I dont mind the lower brightness for the better colors/blacks, but with some movies it looks bad and i switch to SDR. For example, on disney+ the mandalorian is terrible in HDR. Their is a rumor that its fake HDR and projectors do bad with fake HDR. 



scottjwoodford said:


> As for firmware, I think it's 1.12. The projector shows a long string of numbers followed by 112. I'm not at home so I can't tell you with 100% certainty. Can you confirm what the latest firmware should show for both the firmware numbers listed (i think one is system and one is video)? Thanks for all the help.


Yes its the numbers at the end. I think the top on that says main is the main firmware. This can be updated to 114 which I suggest doing because of the power supply updates. I know the HDR got adjusted at some point, just not sure what firmware it was. 

If you dont have any special settings saved, or can re-do them I'd suggest a factory reset after the firmware update as well. --

https://epson.com/support/wa00805


----------



## duke47

Hi there, I got a refurbished 5040ub. I already own epson 3100. I am projecting on a grey wall.

1. For some reason 5040 is lot less brighter than 3100 

2. I just cannot get pure whites in 5040 , I get a tint of yellow. where as i get pure whites in 3100 out of the box.It is slightly better when i change softness from 5 to 10 on 5040. but not as white as 3100.I just cannot get pure white.

3. Putting resolution apart 3100 looks lot better than 5040.looks brighter and more accurate colour reproduction.I know 3100 it is 100 lumens more.

4. When i use firestick 4k 5040 ub is loosing even more brightness even after setting bt2020 hdr and HDR mode set to auto bright.


I want to know if something wrong with projector . Should i try replacing it?

Why is the image lot less brighter when i use firestick4k compared to 1080p firestick? I tried playing around with changing colorbit,setting hdt to auto bright and other settings mentioned in the forum

I am attaching pictures. Brightness difference is lot more than what i captured in pic.


Please suggest


----------



## Natrix1973

scottjwoodford said:


> I have the Denon AVR-X6400h. All ports are HDCP 2.2. I believe I have it hooked up to the "Monitor (ARC)" port which says 2.2/4K. There is a "Zone2" port farther to the left closer to the inputs, but I doubt that would make a difference.
> 
> I already have the 4k signal format set to Enhanced. And yes I'm using HDMI1 on the projector. For grins, I double checked last night and I can confirm the projector is showing HDR BT2020 4K. So I know it's not a port issue, not getting the proper signal, etc.. That's why this is so disappointing/strange.
> 
> I agree Batman Begins is not a great reference. I put in Dark Knight in after that and it's a million times better. Of course I'm watching it on SDR, cause of my HDR prob.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. Maybe I just need to have this calibrated for my room? I just can't believe it's THAT different of a setup that everyone else's. Completely light controlled, dedicated theater, Silver ticket 127", the Denon, and the Sony BD. I can't even find a calibrator in the Northern Virginia area. Know of anyone good?


Well, you covered a lot of the basic troubleshooting then. It sounds like you have tried a bunch of different settings. Have you checked what the gamma and RGBCMY settings are currently set to on the projector as well? If you have been changing a bunch of settings, I would start over and make sure you are on a standard gamma setting and zero out all RGBCMY to start over from scratch with. I would try what was also suggested of updating firmware and doing a reset on the projector. I don't remember which firmware upgrade helped with HDR performance.


----------



## Frichard

So . . . I RMA my first refurb unit. I hope the next one will be the one.
Week end without a projector! :'( 

Also for those looking for calibration setting I found this awesome pdf on this thread!

The credit goes to ht guy!
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-394.html#post55178352


----------



## mat82284

duke47 said:


> Hi there, I got a refurbished 5040ub. I already own epson 3100. I am projecting on a grey wall.
> 
> 1. For some reason 5040 is lot less brighter than 3100
> 
> 2. I just cannot get pure whites in 5040 , I get a tint of yellow. where as i get pure whites in 3100 out of the box.It is slightly better when i change softness from 5 to 10 on 5040. but not as white as 3100.I just cannot get pure white.
> 
> 3. Putting resolution apart 3100 looks lot better than 5040.looks brighter and more accurate colour reproduction.I know 3100 it is 100 lumens more.
> 
> 4. When i use firestick 4k 5040 ub is loosing even more brightness even after setting bt2020 hdr and HDR mode set to auto bright.
> 
> 
> I want to know if something wrong with projector . Should i try replacing it?
> 
> Why is the image lot less brighter when i use firestick4k compared to 1080p firestick? I tried playing around with changing colorbit,setting hdt to auto bright and other settings mentioned in the forum
> 
> I am attaching pictures. Brightness difference is lot more than what i captured in pic.
> 
> 
> Please suggest


Do you have your amazon fire stick set to 24p 4k? Or maybe the setting is “match source frame”? 

If not that’s your problem because the 5040ub can’t output more than 10gbps and 60hz 4k HDR is more than 10gbps. Max we can do is 12bit 4:2:2 in BT2000 at 24fps.

Most issues are not the projector, but that doesn’t mean it’s not broken. Do basic troubleshooting first, check settings, check to make sure your AVR can do all framerates at 4k with HDR, check hdmi cables, connect your fire stick directly to the projector ect... 

Also update firmware and reset setting if your not on version 114. As for your whites that’s hard to say because your projecting on a painted wall. You probably need to calibrate the projector for your grey wall. Every projectors calibration is different and since this projector has 1,000,000 to 1 contrast and very accurate colors the calibration will be different than your other projectors.


----------



## RedPills4All

mat82284 said:


> The Denon X6400h is just like my x4300h except its a little newer and 11.1 channels so your avr should work perfectly fine. What input are you using for your bluray player? Denon suggests using inputs closer to the outputs for lower resistance because of the smaller distance the hdmi input has to travel through the board. Denon recommends the last 3 inputs, so inputs 5,6,7 if the last 3 on your receiver is 5,6,7 ect...
> 
> I'd still suggest trying it without the receiver. If your current HDMI cord reaches the bluway player try that for now. If you get better HDR then something in the AVR is the issue and I'd start with a factory reset. If its still Dim, try the next step and move the bd player near the projector with a short hdmi cord. If that also fails, then my next suggestion is to try a media player that supports 4k hdr output at 24p like an apple tv (or others, Im just not sure whats been confirmed or not, maybe others can chime in).
> 
> Or if you have a PC/laptop you can hdmi output to the projector with and can manually set it to 24p HDR and run netflix/disney+ for testing that will help you diagnoise this further. There's only 4 things it can be, the projector, the avr, the bluray player, or the hdmi cords.
> 
> 23.97 is what you want, so thats correct. Does it show what its running at other than just BT.2020? like is it showing 4:4:4 or 4:2:2? The projector only supports 4:2:2 signals so if a 4:4:4 signal is being sent that could be part of the issue. If thats the case, try and force a 4:2:2 signal and see what happens.
> 
> I highly doubt the screen material has any effect on the brightness, but it might affect the colors? I'm not sure, or an expert on screen material. I'd ask around about that one. I dont use digital cinema, that is far to dim for me. I run mine on the bright cinema setting, or dynamic with the HDR settings set to autobrights (but im on 114 firmware since that is what came with my projector)
> 
> Im using the Elite Screens Spectrum Tab-Tension 125"Screen. Maybe the silver screen is the reason why your brightness flickering goes up and down (hopefully someone else can answer this), or its possible that your brain is just more sensitive to strobe effects and you notice suttle abrupt changes in wave lengths that most of us cant.
> 
> SDR does look amazing on its own because of the epson color enhancements, so its possible that your just used to the higher brightness of SDR and to you when you see HDR the loss of brightness makes the image look worse than the brighter colors. With projectors HDR's main downfall is the brightness and when we take photos with out cameras thats the one thing that you cant replicate online since everyones camera/phone will autoadjust the expose and brightness of the photo to make it look good. The other factor is your computer screens brightness ect... It'ss possible that the brightness of the photos you see online are an illusion to what your expecting on the screen and what you see as not as good, is great to others. I dont mind the lower brightness for the better colors/blacks, but with some movies it looks bad and i switch to SDR. For example, on disney+ the mandalorian is terrible in HDR. Their is a rumor that its fake HDR and projectors do bad with fake HDR.
> 
> Yes its the numbers at the end. I think the top on that says main is the main firmware. This can be updated to 114 which I suggest doing because of the power supply updates. I know the HDR got adjusted at some point, just not sure what firmware it was.
> 
> If you dont have any special settings saved, or can re-do them I'd suggest a factory reset after the firmware update as well. --
> 
> https://epson.com/support/wa00805


Ok I'm going to try all of those suggestions, thanks. One thing I did try is to update the firmware. No joy. I tried this previously and it failed as well. Following the exact procedure, using a FAT32 USB drive, tried multiple drives etc... Nothing works. As a few other users on this board have stated, after holding the power button and plugging power back in I get the 3 lights for about 5 seconds, then it shuts off. It never completes. For grins I called Epson and after talking with them for 10 mins they said they want to send me a replacement unit (refurb). Now I'm torn. Do I do the replacement and maybe that also fixes my PQ problems? The issue is I bought an extended warranty through B&H, so that will prob be null and void on replacement.

Has anyone come up with a fix/workaround for why the firmware won't update for some of us?


----------



## RedPills4All

Natrix1973 said:


> Well, you covered a lot of the basic troubleshooting then. It sounds like you have tried a bunch of different settings. Have you checked what the gamma and RGBCMY settings are currently set to on the projector as well? If you have been changing a bunch of settings, I would start over and make sure you are on a standard gamma setting and zero out all RGBCMY to start over from scratch with. I would try what was also suggested of updating firmware and doing a reset on the projector. I don't remember which firmware upgrade helped with HDR performance.


Yea for the heck of it I went to "Bright Cinema" settings and did a reset to default values. So all gamma and RGBCMY are now default. Also using "Auto (Bright)" for dynamic range. I would expect the picture to be at least decently bright and vibrant with HDR (yes not perfect I realize). But Black Panther is completely unwatchable its so dark. It's like someone turned off all the lights.

You'll see in my post above but I cannot update the firmware no matter what I've tried. Epson wants to send me a refurb unit. Nice that they will do that, but it's not the answer I was hoping for. I'd like to get the FW updated first to see if it helps.


----------



## mat82284

scottjwoodford said:


> Natrix1973 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, you covered a lot of the basic troubleshooting then. It sounds like you have tried a bunch of different settings. Have you checked what the gamma and RGBCMY settings are currently set to on the projector as well? If you have been changing a bunch of settings, I would start over and make sure you are on a standard gamma setting and zero out all RGBCMY to start over from scratch with. I would try what was also suggested of updating firmware and doing a reset on the projector. I don't remember which firmware upgrade helped with HDR performance.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea for the heck of it I went to "Bright Cinema" settings and did a reset to default values. So all gamma and RGBCMY are now default. Also using "Auto (Bright)" for dynamic range. I would expect the picture to be at least decently bright and vibrant with HDR (yes not perfect I realize). But Black Panther is completely unwatchable its so dark. It's like someone turned off all the lights.
> 
> You'll see in my post above but I cannot update the firmware no matter what I've tried. Epson wants to send me a refurb unit. Nice that they will do that, but it's not the answer I was hoping for. I'd like to get the FW updated first to see if it helps.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you did as much testing as possible. Did you by chance put the Blu-ray player on short hdmi cable to the projector? What about an alternate source, like play the Blu-ray from your laptop/pc? 

As for the replacement that epson suggested I wouldn’t do it unless you know for sure it’s bad, or ready to give up and try it. Since your 5040ub has a good picture (no dust blobs) and doesn’t have any power problems, plus your extended warranty might be at risk. I’d wait until everything has been tested first.

As for the firmware, I ran into similar issues with Updating the firmware on some older technology using a USB and the one thing I noticed is that any problems I came across was related to my usb stick. Depending on the projectors usb firmware (usb size limitations) and usb version (2.0 or 3.0) the stick you use could create complications and not work. For example my 2018 Camry got an update for CarPlay and needed a firmware update, the update had similar requirements, but for the life of me I couldn’t get it to work. None of my usb 3.0 drives would update correctly, it would either fail or not start at all. I ended up using an old 4gb usb 2.0 stick and that worked perfectly. 

If you have an older small usb 2.0 stick try that and see if it works. If that doesn’t work you can also try to format an external hard drive and use that if the projector has the ability to recognize typical external hard drives (try usb 2.0 if you have it).

If that doesn’t work then maybe swapping it out is best because the inability to update firmware might mean something else is wrong with the unit which could be the reason hdr isn’t working right. Plus firmware 114 has the power supply fix so that’s something everyone wants.


----------



## gene4ht

mat82284 said:


> Plus firmware 114 has the power supply fix so that’s something everyone wants.


I must have missed this confirmation. Is a link available where the PSU failure has been officially acknowledged and the subsequent fix substantiated by Epson? TIA


----------



## mat82284

gene4ht said:


> mat82284 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Plus firmware 114 has the power supply fix so thatâ€™️s something everyone wants.
> 
> 
> 
> I must have missed this confirmation. Is a link available where the PSU failure has been officially acknowledged and the subsequent fix substantiated by Epson? TIA
Click to expand...

It’s not written anywhere but if you call epson and ask that’s what they tell you was changed.


----------



## gene4ht

mat82284 said:


> It’s not written anywhere but if you call epson and ask that’s what they tell you was changed.


Hmmm...Until it’s documented/published publicly in an official Epson firmware change log, it would be prudent to view this as anecdotal information only.


----------



## mat82284

gene4ht said:


> mat82284 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Itâ€™️s not written anywhere but if you call epson and ask thatâ€™️s what they tell you was changed.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm...Until itâ€™️s documented/published publicly in an official Epson firmware change log, it would be prudent to view this as anecdotal information only.
Click to expand...

Believe what ever you want but epson doesn’t publish firmware logs, they never have and probably never will based on their history. My first unit had a power failure and they sent a replacement and the person on the phone told me that they fixed the power issues with their latest firmware update. The replacement came with 114 so I didn’t need to upgrade, but I have no reason to not believe them because they have access to the firmware logs, not us.


----------



## cubsfan

so, has anyone with a fairly recent refurb, had any power supply failure ?


----------



## Odysea

Just picked up a refurbished 5040ub with 2 year warranty on an impulse buy. It will be replacing my sony vpl 40es, we will see if that was a good decision or not haha.

I have a xbox one x, and a windows computer. Is there anything else I should be looking into to best take advantage of the 10gb limited hdr? There are a few guides I have found on here from 2017/2018 etc. Curious if there is a "best practices" for 2020?


----------



## noob00224

Odysea said:


> Just picked up a refurbished 5040ub with 2 year warranty on an impulse buy. It will be replacing my sony vpl 40es, we will see if that was a good decision or not haha.
> 
> I have a xbox one x, and a windows computer. Is there anything else I should be looking into to best take advantage of the 10gb limited hdr? There are a few guides I have found on here from 2017/2018 etc. Curious if there is a "best practices" for 2020?


The best way to view video HDR that is not streamed is a HTPC with madvr. Madvr requires a gpu, minimum 1060GTX for 4K HDR. Madvr can do other things which also require GPU power.
For streaming some users use the Panasonic lineup, UB420/820/900.
Some streaming services are fixed at 60Hz, so to access in 4K HDR 60Hz a HD Fury linker is required. The same for gaming. The HD Fury can change the bit depth to 8 bit, which can make 4K HDR 60hz under 10GB bandwidth.


----------



## sddp

Tom J. Davis said:


> Received my refurb from Epson Friday. So far so good.
> 
> Need some suggestions for 3D glasses. I have no clue which ones to get since I’ve never had 3D anything.
> 
> Thanks!


I have both the XPAND 105 and the Epson. The Epson of course cost more, but for me comparing them, the Epsons are better and slightly brighter with a bit more 3D IMHO.
But I'm sure any active RF should work


----------



## Frichard

Odysea said:


> Just picked up a refurbished 5040ub with 2 year warranty on an impulse buy. It will be replacing my sony vpl 40es, we will see if that was a good decision or not haha.
> 
> I have a xbox one x, and a windows computer. Is there anything else I should be looking into to best take advantage of the 10gb limited hdr? There are a few guides I have found on here from 2017/2018 etc. Curious if there is a "best practices" for 2020?


From reading the forum I choose to go with a Nvidia shield. You can fix the refresh rates to 24hz to play hdr with it which make it compatible with the restricted hdmi of the 5040ub.


----------



## gigging

RedPills4All said:


> Ok I'm going to try all of those suggestions, thanks. One thing I did try is to update the firmware. No joy. I tried this previously and it failed as well. Following the exact procedure, using a FAT32 USB drive, tried multiple drives etc... Nothing works. As a few other users on this board have stated, after holding the power button and plugging power back in I get the 3 lights for about 5 seconds, then it shuts off. It never completes. For grins I called Epson and after talking with them for 10 mins they said they want to send me a replacement unit (refurb). Now I'm torn. Do I do the replacement and maybe that also fixes my PQ problems? The issue is I bought an extended warranty through B&H, so that will prob be null and void on replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone come up with a fix/workaround for why the firmware won't update for some of us?




I had the same problem with the firmware update so I went to Walmart and got a USB adapter and a micro sd card and it worked perfectly. I got the suggestion from a poster in this thread. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Archaea

john hunter said:


> Can't agree enough with Brett and others above who have trumpeted the virtues of the Panasonic players.
> I was waiting for their New Year announcements to see whether Panasonic will finally add SACD playback but when I saw the UB420 on sale last week for a great price, I gave in.
> Out of the box, it was sharper and with better colour resolution than my Oppo 203.
> The 420 and 6040 go together like fish and chips or egg and bacon.
> A match made in home theatre heaven.
> Only things that are not so good-the tiny not back lit remote and lack of front display panel but I suspect I will get used to them.
> So if you are into 4k (and why shouldn't you be!!), what are you waiting for.




Buy the panasonic 900 remote on EBAY. Its $25-$30 well spent. The 420 remote (and 820 same thing) are HORRIBLE remotes. The 900 works fully and is backlit and a high quality remote.


----------



## Archaea

Gelfling said:


> Okay. I finally had time this weekend and setup my new 5040ub (well, refurbished, but new to me). The menu said it had 0 bulb replacements and 0 hours. Looked new to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, right now I am running the unit off a Roku Premier (which outputs at 4k 60 fps). So, I made a bunch of saved profiles for the various settings listed here on the forums. Some were HDR, some non-HDR. What I have found is that no mater what I do, the color space is showing up as bt.709 no matter what I set it to in the settings. Even when I set color space to "bt.2020" and dynamic range to "SDR", its defaulting to bt.709. I assume that because the Roku is doing 60 fps, the 5040UB its bandwidth limited. I just want to make sure that the behavior I am seeing and the assumption I am making is correct. The only way I am going to see BT.2020 show up on the info screen is if I drop the fps to 24 (which would require a non-Roku source).
> 
> 
> 
> I should also note that I tried playing some of my MKV rips via PLEX, and they showed the same behavior, but they are all rips of standard bluerays, not 4K HDR bluerays.




Roku can select 30hz HDR under display options. Or better yet chose 60hz non HDR, since frankly IMO and testing I think you’ll come to the conclusion the Epson 5040UB is not a good projector for HDR, and its better when you feed it a non HDR source.


----------



## Quirky

Just saying hi to fellow Epson 5040UBers. 
I bit the bullet on a refurb - picture is quite amazing indeed. I am waiting to place an order on a third replacement unit. 
The original unit had a grinding noise and error on the Cinema mode switch. 
The first replacement went into "overheat and shutdown" mode about 5 minutes after being on. 
The second replacement when you turn it on - no light comes out of the lens in its "warm up" phase which lasts 3-4 minutes before it goes into overheat mode and shuts off. 

I called yet again and they're out of stock for now, so will have to call again on Monday. But this is 3 units that all had a different something something broken with them. Those were refurbs so supposedly they have been "looked at" by a pro and deemed ok. Which obviously they are not. So either their quality control is really in the ****ter, or these units are just dying left and right. 
I knew about the power issue that many have reported but figured it was fixed with the refurbs and to give it a shot. Great PQ but so many problems. They should have just scrapped the entire 5040 line. Anyone know if the 5050ub is plagued by these mountains of issues? Or should I just bite the bullet and search for a good deal on a JVC? 
I'm kind of curious to see though how many projectors will Epson ship me before they decide to refund me the money. They've already done 3 round trip shipments of a 35lbs box - it can't be cheap.


----------



## john hunter

Archaea said:


> Buy the panasonic 900 remote on EBAY. Its $25-$30 well spent. The 420 remote (and 820 same thing) are HORRIBLE remotes. The 900 works fully and is backlit and a high quality remote.


Thanks for that my friend. Just ordered one! Cheers and thank you for the info.


----------



## Archaea

john hunter said:


> Thanks for that my friend. Just ordered one! Cheers and thank you for the info.






















In case interested I know there are some fakes on ebay. This is a real panasonic dp-ub900 remote. Notice the silkscreen writing below the buttons and the font on the serial number on the back. Make sure thats what you ordered. Otherwise it might be a Chinese knockoff — which may or may not be as good.


----------



## jdfilm

Can anyone point me to the best settings for a 5040ub in a light controlled room? 



Coming from a Panasonic AE4000, any setting on the Epson will probably be brighter, so not worried about making it super bright. I just would like the most accurate colors according to the films actual grade and brightness levels intended by the filmmakers.


----------



## Gelfling

Archaea said:


> Roku can select 30hz HDR under display options. Or better yet chose 60hz non HDR, since frankly IMO and testing I think you’ll come to the conclusion the Epson 5040UB is not a good projector for HDR, and its better when you feed it a non HDR source.


I did decided to leave it at 60 htz with SDR. Even downgrading to 30 htz is not enough to get under the bandwidth limit, so I still don't get HDR even at 30 (unless I am doing something wrong).


----------



## morty343

Gelfling said:


> Okay. I finally had time this weekend and setup my new 5040ub (well, refurbished, but new to me). The menu said it had 0 bulb replacements and 0 hours. Looked new to me.
> 
> Anyway, right now I am running the unit off a Roku Premier (which outputs at 4k 60 fps). So, I made a bunch of saved profiles for the various settings listed here on the forums. Some were HDR, some non-HDR. What I have found is that no mater what I do, the color space is showing up as bt.709 no matter what I set it to in the settings. Even when I set color space to "bt.2020" and dynamic range to "SDR", its defaulting to bt.709. I assume that because the Roku is doing 60 fps, the 5040UB its bandwidth limited. I just want to make sure that the behavior I am seeing and the assumption I am making is correct. The only way I am going to see BT.2020 show up on the info screen is if I drop the fps to 24 (which would require a non-Roku source).
> 
> I should also note that I tried playing some of my MKV rips via PLEX, and they showed the same behavior, but they are all rips of standard bluerays, not 4K HDR bluerays.



Not sure where you are at with this but I can tell you my Roku Ultra 4640 (2016) is sending .2020 HDR to my 5040 reliably. This is with the display detection either set to "auto" or to "4K HDR 30Hz" (both work). I have this splitter in between and I send one (downscaled) output to my 2011 Denon AVR to extract audio, and the other output directly to the 5040 input 1. When I play Amazon titles that feature HDR, Amazon sends them at 4K 24Hz, 2020 HDR 4:2:2. When I play Netflix titles that feature HDR, Netflix apparently prioritizes HDR over 4K and sends the title at 1080p, 59.97Hz 2020 HDR 4:4:4.


What level HDMI cables are you using? Mine are explicitly marked "high-speed HDMI with ethernet" and I believe this is important. (The "high-speed" part, not so much the ethernet part.)


----------



## Gelfling

morty343 said:


> Not sure where you are at with this but I can tell you my Roku Ultra 4640 (2016) is sending .2020 HDR to my 5040 reliably. This is with the display detection either set to "auto" or to "4K HDR 30Hz" (both work). I have this splitter in between and I send one (downscaled) output to my 2011 Denon AVR to extract audio, and the other output directly to the 5040 input 1. When I play Amazon titles that feature HDR, Amazon sends them at 4K 24Hz, 2020 HDR 4:2:2. When I play Netflix titles that feature HDR, Netflix apparently prioritizes HDR over 4K and sends the title at 1080p, 59.97Hz 2020 HDR 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> What level HDMI cables are you using? Mine are explicitly marked "high-speed HDMI with ethernet" and I believe this is important. (The "high-speed" part, not so much the ethernet part.)


Hum. That's really interesting. I'll have to mess with things a bit more. I have a high speed fiber HDMI cable. Brand new and supports 18 gps so I should be good there.


----------



## jonathan thornton

So I have the opportunity to get an Epson 3800 for $1200, almost the same price as the 5040ub. I do not game so the HDMI limitations don’t mean much to me. However when it comes to future proofing a large purchase like this I’m on the fence. Does anyone have feedback on the 3800 vs the 5040ub?


----------



## mat82284

Gelfling said:


> morty343 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure where you are at with this but I can tell you my Roku Ultra 4640 (2016) is sending .2020 HDR to my 5040 reliably. This is with the display detection either set to "auto" or to "4K HDR 30Hz" (both work). I have this splitter in between and I send one (downscaled) output to my 2011 Denon AVR to extract audio, and the other output directly to the 5040 input 1. When I play Amazon titles that feature HDR, Amazon sends them at 4K 24Hz, 2020 HDR 4:2:2. When I play Netflix titles that feature HDR, Netflix apparently prioritizes HDR over 4K and sends the title at 1080p, 59.97Hz 2020 HDR 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> What level HDMI cables are you using? Mine are explicitly marked "high-speed HDMI with ethernet" and I believe this is important. (The "high-speed" part, not so much the ethernet part.)
> 
> 
> 
> Hum. That's really interesting. I'll have to mess with things a bit more. I have a high speed fiber HDMI cable. Brand new and supports 18 gps so I should be good there.
Click to expand...

Sometimes if your AVR has it’s setting to auto and it’s dual outputting to a source it will try and match both sources, meaning your tv and projector. Some AVRs can’t handle this well because of different compatibility’s so to test this unplug the HDMI to your tv and see if it fixes your problem. 

Also make sure your fiber cable is real. There are alot of fake fiber hdmi cables out there. Fiber cables can only be installed in one direction. 



jonathan thornton said:


> So I have the opportunity to get an Epson 3800 for $1200, almost the same price as the 5040ub. I do not game so the HDMI limitations donâ€™️t mean much to me. However when it comes to future proofing a large purchase like this Iâ€™️m on the fence. Does anyone have feedback on the 3800 vs the 5040ub?


I’d say it depends more on what you want. Do you want 60hz 4k hdr? Then the 3800 is your choice. 

Do you want superior blacks that are 1,000,000:1 vs 100,000:1? Then the 5040ub is your choice.

If placement matters then the 5040ub is way more forgiving with it’s bigger lens shift and zoom. Double check your room placement to make sure they fit.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_3800.htm

Projector buying is all up to the buyer, both will be good projector and you have to decide what futures are most important to you when buying.


----------



## jonathan thornton

Thanks for the help. It’s a tv replacement in a somewhat dim living room. I do not game at all. However I’d like to make sure the 5040ub will be ok for the next 5 years or so as far as HDR 4K etc


----------



## mat82284

jonathan thornton said:


> Thanks for the help. Itâ€™️s a tv replacement in a somewhat dim living room. I do not game at all. However Iâ€™️d like to make sure the 5040ub will be ok for the next 5 years or so as far as HDR 4K etc


The hdr will work fine for the next 5 years; however, formats change new HDR formats get introduced (IMAX has one) and those will come out in the next year or two I’m sure on some models. The 5040ub does hdr just fine at 24hz 12bit 4:2:2 (and this won’t change for movies), however if you want to watch tv is hdr then I’m not sure if this will work. I think all tv boxes output at 60hz, but since I don’t have cable I can’t really say. I’m sure the tech has changed so they might. 

This projector can be combined with the HD fury to get 60hz 4k HDR at 8 bit, so there is that. If blacks are important to you get the UB, if you don’t want to add a box to run 4k HDR at 60hz get the 3800. You can’t go wrong with either of them. Black levels can make a big different in picture quality so it’s very hard to suggest one for you to buy. You need to decide for yourself. 

Maybe visit a Best Buy and see if you can visually compare the 5050ub with the 3800. The 5050ub is basically a 5040ub with the higher 18gb HDMI limit.


----------



## Shane M

I believe I am probably retreading a topic covered earlier in this thread, but I am not sure if there is a consensus so I'm bringing it up again.

I have an ATV 4K with a new 25' 4K 18 Gbps HDMI cable through a Pioneer LX801. I am using both the native ATV movies app as well as Infuse with UHD blu-ray images. 

HDR is significantly worse PQ than SDR. This is in bright scenes, where detail is lost (for example, the right part of the sky in the ATV screensaver of Manhattan), in dark scenes (tried Dark Knight, John Wick 3, and Annihilation) and in scenes with intense bright and dark (leaving the lighthouse scene in Annihilation). It's really not close. HDR washes out detail in dark scenes into almost complete black, and detail in bright areas to almost complete white. It's quite terrible.

Another interesting note is that comparing a 4K source to 1080P source, it seems as though there is a slightly better PQ in the 1080P. This is in both applications mentioned. Much more subtle than the difference between HDR and SDR, but does seem like a very slight advantage to detail with a 1080P source. 

Any advice? I love the idea of HDR but in my current installation it's a very poor implementation. 

Thank you-


----------



## Morphx2

Is nonHDR just rec 709 option? Trying set it up on the shield

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## morty343

RedPills4All said:


> Ok I'm going to try all of those suggestions, thanks. One thing I did try is to update the firmware. No joy. I tried this previously and it failed as well. Following the exact procedure, using a FAT32 USB drive, tried multiple drives etc... Nothing works. As a few other users on this board have stated, after holding the power button and plugging power back in I get the 3 lights for about 5 seconds, then it shuts off. It never completes. For grins I called Epson and after talking with them for 10 mins they said they want to send me a replacement unit (refurb). Now I'm torn. Do I do the replacement and maybe that also fixes my PQ problems? The issue is I bought an extended warranty through B&H, so that will prob be null and void on replacement.
> 
> Has anyone come up with a fix/workaround for why the firmware won't update for some of us?



I'm replying kind of late to this, but I did the firmware update to my 5040 from a USB drive without any problems. The issue may be because you are formatting the drive to *FAT32*, and not *FAT* (no 32). For USB flash drives, FAT is what is specified in the instructions.


----------



## Juboy

Shane M said:


> HDR is significantly worse PQ than SDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Another interesting note is that comparing a 4K source to 1080P source, it seems as though there is a slightly better PQ in the 1080P.



While I definitely think it depends on the source (material and hardware), this PJ does perform so well with 1080p SDR that the potential gains from 4K HDR are hard to distinguish. 



That said, when watching content back-to-back from my Shield 2019 and using my various pre-defined settings, I do marginally prefer 4K HDR for the most part.


Some sequences from both Altered Carbon and The Witcher in 4K HDR look the best I've ever seen my 9300w achieve.


----------



## Frichard

So I got my second refurb unit yesterday.


It had a big dust blob but I put the unit in "high altitude" mode lamp in high mode and it dislodge the debris. I was happy.


But then while testing out some configuration I got this problem with "Digital Cinema".
It kinda look like a negative of a picture.
I put an image in attachment in natural mode and one in digital cinema.


Anybody ever seen this and was able to correct it?


----------



## Morphx2

Frichard said:


> So I got my second refurb unit yesterday.
> 
> 
> It had a big dust blob but I put the unit in "high altitude" mode lamp in high mode and it dislodge the debris. I was happy.
> 
> 
> But then while testing out some configuration I got this problem with "Digital Cinema".
> It kinda look like a negative of a picture.
> I put an image in attachment in natural mode and one in digital cinema.
> 
> 
> Anybody ever seen this and was able to correct it?


Thats some scary looking movie

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

cadmium said:


> The mount, extra lamp, black case, and warranty do matter to us. This is part of a larger basement project and I just don't have the money to go up to a 5050 or 5060. More specifically, I traded the difference in price between the 4050 and 5060 for better in-wall speakers, which I figure will last me longer than a particular projector
> 
> I made a deal with my wife that I can upgrade in 3 years. Hopefully by then we'll have more affordable 4k options and even better black levels!


But why not get the 5040UB refurb? It's half the price of the 4050.
You can get a mount,lamp, and still be left with something extra. And have better black levels and contrast.


----------



## Frichard

So there's nothing to do with my cursed projector.
Epson will send me a replacement again. But they don't have any in inventory right now!
I need to call in 24 hour! :-\


----------



## Frichard

duke47 said:


> if i decide to send projector for a replacement will Epson requires me to send the one I have first or will they ship the replacement and give me time to send mine back?
> 
> 
> 5040 looks inferior to 3100 i have in terms of brightness(3100 is much brighter ) and white colour. just wanted to know if something is wrong with the projector.


My first replacement I received it the next day by purolator and fedex took the old one the same day also.


----------



## lastditch

Frichard said:


> So there's nothing to do with my cursed projector.
> Epson will send me a replacement again. But they don't have any in inventory right now!
> I need to call in 24 hour! :-\


Join the club. First projector has a nice green blob, second projector actually has **** rattling around inside and dust blobs. Not a chance they check these things.... they only see if they fire up and thats it.


----------



## morty343

duke47 said:


> When I set match source frame rate in amazon firestick 4K below is what I am getting
> I connected firestick directly to Projector
> 
> AMAZON PRIME VIDEOS
> 
> Refresh Rate : 23.97 Hz
> Color Depth : 8 bit 4:4:4
> Color format : BT-2020 HDR
> 
> Netflix
> 
> Refresh Rate : 59.94 Hz
> Color Depth : 8 bit 4:2:0
> Color format : BT-709 SDR
> 
> Disney +
> 
> Refresh Rate : 59.94 Hz
> Color Depth : 8 bit 4:2:0
> Color format : BT-2020 HDR
> 
> 
> 
> When I use old amazon non4k firestick picture is definitely brighter than 4kFirestick.
> 
> I need to upgrade my receiver, until then what is the best streaming device to get HDR working which I can connect directly to projector?



My 2016 Roku Ultra that I got used from eBay is sending Netflix in 59.97Hz 1080p HDR to my 5040. (8 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020). Amazon is 24Hz 4K 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR. I don't have Disney+.


Some Netflix shows look better to me in SDR, so before watching these I just go to the Roku settings and force it to 1080p mode (or you could force it to 30Hz 4K non-HDR mode).


How are you getting audio if your AVR doesn't support HDR and you're plugging directly into the projector? I don't believe the 5040 does ARC.


----------



## achilleas8095

Morphx2 said:


> What mode (bright cinema, etc.) do people use for 1080p SDR?


I use natural calibrated from a professional isf calibrator and I am very happy with the result.
4k hdr is very difficult to achieve a good calibration ( my calibrator had to come three times in order to make it look nice but I think that 1080 sdr looks better and more crispy in 5040ub).

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk


----------



## jbnpaul

After spending a lot of time with 5040 and playing around with settings I finally reached the conclusion hdr doesn't look better than sdr. I haven't found any content that better in HDR than sdr( bt 2020) via madvr.

With hdr, I can see the dynamic range coming into play... But this comes with a cost of much darker image on the screen. And most of the content that I watched ended up too dark. And I was simply happier with with the sdr image.

With this conclusion for all streaming content I simply set my apple tv to 4k sdr and use match frame rate. And will fall back to madvr tone mapping to sdr when possible.

I have no plans to do a professional calibration. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## marcosphoto

Can anyone comment on Sony active 3D glasses with the 5040? I have access to some used glasses cheap and since my wife and I are not big 3D fans - I'd like to take a cheap attempt first to see if our minds can be changed. TDG-BR100 for instance.


----------



## Frichard

jbnpaul said:


> After spending a lot of time with 5040 and playing around with settings I finally reached the conclusion hdr doesn't look better than sdr. I haven't found any content that better in HDR than sdr( bt 2020) via madvr.
> 
> With hdr, I can see the dynamic range coming into play... But this comes with a cost of much darker image on the screen. And most of the content that I watched ended up too dark. And I was simply happier with with the sdr image.
> 
> With this conclusion for all streaming content I simply set my apple tv to 4k sdr and use match frame rate. And will fall back to madvr tone mapping to sdr when possible.
> 
> I have no plans to do a professional calibration.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Try these setting from Dave Harper that I change a little for my liking.
I'm not finished playing with it but it produce a nice bright HDR image.


Color mode: Bright Cinema 
Brightness: 50 
Contrast: 100 
Color saturation: 62 
Advanced
Gamma: 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,32,32 
Power: eco
Auto iris: speed High 

Signal Advanced Menu
Dynamic range: auto


----------



## Natrix1973

marcosphoto said:


> Can anyone comment on Sony active 3D glasses with the 5040? I have access to some used glasses cheap and since my wife and I are not big 3D fans - I'd like to take a cheap attempt first to see if our minds can be changed. TDG-BR100 for instance.


Those glasses won't work. You need RF glasses and those are IR glasses.


----------



## morty343

jbnpaul said:


> After spending a lot of time with 5040 and playing around with settings I finally reached the conclusion hdr doesn't look better than sdr. I haven't found any content that better in HDR than sdr( bt 2020) via madvr.
> 
> With hdr, I can see the dynamic range coming into play... But this comes with a cost of much darker image on the screen. And most of the content that I watched ended up too dark. And I was simply happier with with the sdr image.
> 
> With this conclusion for all streaming content I simply set my apple tv to 4k sdr and use match frame rate. And will fall back to madvr tone mapping to sdr when possible.
> 
> I have no plans to do a professional calibration.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I didn't get much satisfaction from any streaming HDR programming (I don't yet own a UHD blu-ray player) until I decided to try setting the lamp to high output. I had always avoided this because I found the fan noise objectionable, but I also thought any HDR I had viewed was too dark, so I gave it an honest try. I'm projecting onto a 110" AT screen with a bit of negative gain from about 11 feet. Setting the lamp to high finally gave me a nice image on shows like The Expanse or The Witcher, and I definitely notice the wider range. Points of light (e.g. character using a flashlight) are more intense, and bright colors (e.g. traffic signals, fireworks) pop more too. Shadow detail does not seem much different than SDR to me, but at the same time it's harder for me to see the letter boxing edge in dark scenes, so there must be some difference being made. I think color banding is less noticeable too. And what's interesting is the fan slows down for much of the programming to about the same noise level as medium output. Brighter scenes are the only time it goes back to what I would call semi-distracting levels. Just my $0.02


----------



## jbnpaul

morty343 said:


> I didn't get much satisfaction from any streaming HDR programming (I don't yet own a UHD blu-ray player) until I decided to try setting the lamp to high output. I had always avoided this because I found the fan noise objectionable, but I also thought any HDR I had viewed was too dark, so I gave it an honest try. I'm projecting onto a 110" AT screen with a bit of negative gain from about 11 feet. Setting the lamp to high finally gave me a nice image on shows like The Expanse or The Witcher, and I definitely notice the wider range. Points of light (e.g. character using a flashlight) are more intense, and bright colors (e.g. traffic signals, fireworks) pop more too. Shadow detail does not seem much different than SDR to me, but at the same time it's harder for me to see the letter boxing edge in dark scenes, so there must be some difference being made. I think color banding is less noticeable too. And what's interesting is the fan slows down for much of the programming to about the same noise level as medium output. Brighter scenes are the only time it goes back to what I would call semi-distracting levels. Just my $0.02





Frichard said:


> Try these setting from Dave Harper that I change a little for my liking.
> I'm not finished playing with it but it produce a nice bright HDR image.


Thanks i will give these approaches a try.
In the past, I have tried Dave Harper settings from this thread. ( There is a pdf here with multiple settings ). And this indeed improved HDR on my projector.

But the bigger question here is ... even with these improvements/tweaks to HDR, does it look better than SDR?
I have concluded, for streaming via Apple TV 4k, just forcing all content to SDR is simply better than HDR.
For local content, mad-vr tone map to SDR ( which allows me to set BT 2020) is a no-context winner.

I also believe my eyes prefer a brighter image. And this makes my conclusions above highly subjective. And even with mad-vr tone mapping i end up liking a nits value of 75.


----------



## jdfilm

Just received my 5040ub, and so far I am not getting 4k as an option. Using HDMI fiber cable.



Denon X3500H
Amazon Fire 4k pendant


Any idea why 4k isn't even an option when streaming?


----------



## morty343

jbnpaul said:


> Thanks i will give these approaches a try.
> In the past, I have tried Dave Harper settings from this thread. ( There is a pdf here with multiple settings ). And this indeed improved HDR on my projector.
> 
> But the bigger question here is ... even with these improvements/tweaks to HDR, does it look better than SDR?
> I have concluded, for streaming via Apple TV 4k, just forcing all content to SDR is simply better than HDR.
> For local content, mad-vr tone map to SDR ( which allows me to set BT 2020) is a no-context winner.
> 
> I also believe my eyes prefer a brighter image. And this makes my conclusions above highly subjective. And even with mad-vr tone mapping i end up liking a nits value of 75.



If you have mad-vr then that sounds like a game changer, I'm not familiar. I have the Roku Ultra as my only source so I have no other processing options.


----------



## Morphx2

jbnpaul said:


> Thanks i will give these approaches a try.
> 
> In the past, I have tried Dave Harper settings from this thread. ( There is a pdf here with multiple settings ). And this indeed improved HDR on my projector.
> 
> 
> 
> But the bigger question here is ... even with these improvements/tweaks to HDR, does it look better than SDR?
> 
> I have concluded, for streaming via Apple TV 4k, just forcing all content to SDR is simply better than HDR.
> 
> For local content, mad-vr tone map to SDR ( which allows me to set BT 2020) is a no-context winner.
> 
> 
> 
> I also believe my eyes prefer a brighter image. And this makes my conclusions above highly subjective. And even with mad-vr tone mapping i end up liking a nits value of 75.


For madvr, what do settings do you use in the madvr software for the epson? As in display calibrated to bt2020 etc?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Frichard

jbnpaul said:


> Thanks i will give these approaches a try.
> In the past, I have tried Dave Harper settings from this thread. ( There is a pdf here with multiple settings ). And this indeed improved HDR on my projector.
> 
> But the bigger question here is ... even with these improvements/tweaks to HDR, does it look better than SDR?
> I have concluded, for streaming via Apple TV 4k, just forcing all content to SDR is simply better than HDR.
> For local content, mad-vr tone map to SDR ( which allows me to set BT 2020) is a no-context winner.
> 
> I also believe my eyes prefer a brighter image. And this makes my conclusions above highly subjective. And even with mad-vr tone mapping i end up liking a nits value of 75.


Ill be honest! I didn't even try SDR yet! Ha ha 
I've had the Epson for only 15 days and I had to return it once in this time. (need to return this one also)
Right now I'm watching The Witcher in 4K HDR. At first I didn't like HDR. Way to dark. But with these setting it is very bright with lots of contrast.
I don't feel the need at all for more brightness. (It's really bright) I will try to force SDR on my Shield when I have the time.

Also for reference I have 110" screen with 1.1 gain.


----------



## noob00224

Morphx2 said:


> For madvr, what do settings do you use in the madvr software for the epson? As in display calibrated to bt2020 etc?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Madvr requires some tinkering and reading:
Guide:https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188
Support thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2215490-madvr-player-support-thread-65.html

The HDR tone mapper is still in beta and the guide is not up to date, but get this latest beta:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-265.html#post58828906
And try the HSTM curves:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-275.html#post58893810
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-278.html#post58914448
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-276.html#post58895470
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-285.html#post59115914


----------



## marcosphoto

Mornin' all! Have a semi-technical question to ask you, although I struggled to decide over which forum (Panasonic DP-UB820 vs Epson 5040ub) threads to place it on. As you can see, I struggle a lot with small things! LOL. 

I love the Matrix trilogy, currently only have DVD's. I saw the BR go on sale for both 1080 and 4k HDR on Amazon at great prices compared to stores. In an attempt to determine if I really needed to spend any money on the BR versions, I popped in the pt1 DVD and wow - was it ever grainy and lacking in colour. I guess I forgot how old the DVD really was. 

So fine, decided I'm upgrading. Problem is $60 for the 4K set was simply too high for us right now, as was confirmed by my kill-joy wife. Haha. Sure I could order it anyways and she'd likely never know - but I don't roll that way. So my options are buy the 1080 version or wait countless years until the 4K becomes more acceptably priced/used or the pain from all the recent investment in the theater wears off a little. 

Can anyone comment on the experience difference between the 1080 and 4K - is it worth the wait?


----------



## djmattyb

marcosphoto said:


> Mornin' all! Have a semi-technical question to ask you, although I struggled to decide over which forum (Panasonic DP-UB820 vs Epson 5040ub) threads to place it on. As you can see, I struggle a lot with small things! LOL.
> 
> I love the Matrix trilogy, currently only have DVD's. I saw the BR go on sale for both 1080 and 4k HDR on Amazon at great prices compared to stores. In an attempt to determine if I really needed to spend any money on the BR versions, I popped in the pt1 DVD and wow - was it ever grainy and lacking in colour. I guess I forgot how old the DVD really was.
> 
> So fine, decided I'm upgrading. Problem is $60 for the 4K set was simply too high for us right now, as was confirmed by my kill-joy wife. Haha. Sure I could order it anyways and she'd likely never know - but I don't roll that way. So my options are buy the 1080 version or wait countless years until the 4K becomes more acceptably priced/used or the pain from all the recent investment in the theater wears off a little.
> 
> Can anyone comment on the experience difference between the 1080 and 4K - is it worth the wait?


The Matrix in 4k has gotten fantastic reviews. I'd wait and buy that. https://www.blu-ray.com/movies/The-Matrix-4K-Blu-ray/198328/


----------



## Morphx2

noob00224 said:


> Madvr requires some tinkering and reading:
> Guide:https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188
> Support thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2215490-madvr-player-support-thread-65.html
> 
> The HDR tone mapper is still in beta and the guide is not up to date, but get this latest beta:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-265.html#post58828906
> And try the HSTM curves:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-275.html#post58893810
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-278.html#post58914448
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-276.html#post58895470
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-285.html#post59115914


Dumb question, after I updated it, I dont see HDR to SDR option. Where did it go?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

marcosphoto said:


> Can anyone comment on the experience difference between the 1080 and 4K - is it worth the wait?


This is really a matter of personal taste and how good a transfer each version actually is. Having said this, most enthusiasts today would likely at least have/own/buy the BR versions for their improved resolution over standard dvd and in many cases the better audio codecs...I.e. Atmos and DTS:X. If opting for 4K UHD’s now, keep in mind that HDR, particularly in the case of projectors, presents issues with acceptable brightness requiring more expense to compensate. In any case, you may want to rent (Netflix, RedBox, Family Video, etc.) desirable BD or 4K titles first to determine if it’s worth the investment for you and you wife. Periodic sale prices at Walmart, Target, and Amazon can help make the transition easier on the budget.

You may also want to visit and/or post in the dedicated software thread below...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/150-blu-ray-software/


----------



## marcosphoto

djmattyb said:


> The Matrix in 4k has gotten fantastic reviews. I'd wait and buy that. https://www.blu-ray.com/movies/The-Matrix-4K-Blu-ray/198328/





gene4ht said:


> This is really a matter of personal taste and how good a transfer each version actually is. Having said this, most enthusiasts today would likely at least have/own/buy the BR versions for their improved resolution over standard dvd and in many cases the better audio codecs...I.e. Atmos and DTS:X. If opting for 4K UHD’s now, keep in mind that HDR, particularly in the case of projectors, presents issues with acceptable brightness requiring more expense to compensate. In any case, you may want to rent (Netflix, RedBox, Family Video, etc.) desirable BD or 4K titles first to determine if it’s worth the investment for you and you wife. Periodic sale prices at Walmart, Target, and Amazon can help make the transition easier on the budget.




Thanks for the responses, made me realize it was a better solution to just google the differences in versions - who knew there were so many freaks like us around! Supposedly the bluray version has super-saturated-annoying green added over the theatrical and even DVD versions which make it harder to watch. The 4K version has apparently been overseen by the DP and perfected in ways the DP wanted originally but didn't have the tech at the time to accomplish. As we all know (star wars fans do NOT chime in here), re-editing later releases to try to come closer to the intended effect is not always a good thing - but the 4K release is hands down huge improvement and very welcome according to most sources (both amateur and authoritative). The 4K is believed to have amazing sound and picture improvement, at a typical loss of features like any other 4K disk I've been noticing. My 820UB may not be set for HDR at this point, but I felt it necessary to tell my wife that 4K version is just the way it's got to be!


----------



## Jmouse007

marcosphoto said:


> ...Can anyone comment on the experience difference between the 1080 and 4K - is it worth the wait?


My strong advice is to save up and wait for the 4K Matrix Trilogy to either go on sale or buy it outright even at $60 it is worth every penny.

I bought the 4K version when it originally hit the market and directly compared each of the films with my existing "Ultimate Edition" Blu-ray disks...:

No contest, the UHD 4K disk versions absolutely blow away the Blu-ray versions. All three films were masterfully and painstakingly digitally remastered, color corrected and given a fantastic, killer Dolby Atmos remastered soundtrack. 

Heck, the Dolby Atmos upgrade alone is worth the price, but coupled with the remastered 4K video, it is a "must own" for fans of the trilogy. None of the films ever looked, or sounded this good before, not even when originally shown in the movie theater.

Like I said, no contest, after comparing the two versions I immediately gifted all three HD Blu-ray versions of the films to my son, the 4K versions are that good.

I understand your concerns, some "4K" releases of existing films are junk, the "4K" transfers are mediocre at best, and just designed to part you from your money while providing very little, if any genuine video, audio upgrade to the existing HD Blu-ray version (Oblivion comes to mind). 

But this is absolutely NOT the case with the 4K versions of the Matrix Trilogy. The remastered audio and video is stunning. *Note: The same holds true for the 4K releases of Gladiator, The Fifth Element, Blade Runner, 2001, Cliffhanger, and Alien, to mention a few. Everyone of these new remastered 4K versions are "must buy".

Whatever you do, don't waste/throw your money away on the HD Blu-ray version of the Matrix Trilogy... it isn't worth it. Besides,they literally give them to you with the 4K versions of the three films.

Be patient, save your money and buy the 4K Matrix Trilogy when you finally can, it's worth waiting for. You can also specifically ask for it for your birthday or Christmas present 

Hope this answers your question.


----------



## marcosphoto

Jmouse007 said:


> My strong advice is to save up and wait for the 4K Matrix Trilogy to either go on sale or buy it outright even at $60 it is worth every penny.



Um, too late. Haha. Bought the 4k ultra right after my last post, told the wife she just had to deal with it. Reviewers had said everything you did, I couldn't resist as I love the movie so. It was on sale for $55 CDN (probably equivalent to around $40ish US). I shopped around for literally 3 days and finally I made my choice this morning when Amazon.com had it for $60+! (Canadians getting a better price than Americans, what a rarity). 



Now remain 2 problems that stem from this purchase:

1 - forcing the wife to watch them all again, 

2 - waiting for it to arrive at the front door.


----------



## noob00224

Morphx2 said:


> Dumb question, after I updated it, I dont see HDR to SDR option. Where did it go?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


As it's mentioned previously, madvr requires some research, but does yield great results.
The guide linked is you friend. Although not up the latest update on the HDR DTM function, it still has correct information. The HDR section starts here:
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188&pid=2238949#pid2238949

To get you started, go to Devices>(name device)>hdr> and select tone map HDR using pixel shadesrs. However, there are other settings that need to be inputted before selecting that function.

In the pen ultimate link of the previous post there is an example of how this page in madvr looks like, but that is for the individual's setup. You could copy everything three exceptions:
Real display peak nits needs to be the real nits of the screen,
Dynamic target nits is depending on individual tastes, 
And the HSTM curve that you can pick from the links.

That thread is also not a support thread, just for discussing the HDR DTM development.You should post any further inquiries in the support thread linked in the previous post.


There is thread for HDR releases in which the quality of the releases are discussed:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-...ble-4k-hdr-titles-will-updated-often-970.html


----------



## Morphx2

noob00224 said:


> As it's mentioned previously, madvr requires some research, but does yield great results.
> The guide linked is you friend. Although not up the latest update on the HDR DTM function, it still has correct information. The HDR section starts here:
> https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188&pid=2238949#pid2238949
> 
> To get you started, go to Devices>(name device)>hdr> and select tone map HDR using pixel shadesrs. However, there are other settings that need to be inputted before selecting that function.
> 
> In the pen ultimate link of the previous post there is an example of how this page in madvr looks like, but that is for the individual's setup. You could copy everything three exceptions:
> Real display peak nits needs to be the real nits of the screen,
> Dynamic target nits is depending on individual tastes,
> And the HSTM curve that you can pick from the links.
> 
> That thread is also not a support thread, just for discussing the HDR DTM development.You should post any further inquiries in the support thread linked in the previous post.
> 
> 
> There is thread for HDR releases in which the quality of the releases are discussed:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-...ble-4k-hdr-titles-will-updated-often-970.html


Oh thanks for the big reply. My only question was if the hdr to sdr moved somewhere else. It used to be under HDR tab in an older version but now I dont see the conversion option anymore after installing the new beta. 

It looked fantastic though when I tried it last night with HDR to SDR. But that option isn't there any more from what I can see in the latest beta.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Musty Hustla

Anyone have a low profile replacement power cord recommendation? I’m running into a clearance issue with the OEM version.


----------



## rationalxde

I found my new 5040UB has this auto iris HDD type of noise, is turning auto iris off the only way to get rid off this noise?


Thanks.


----------



## MrMonkeeMan

Can anyone confirm that the top number is the correct firmware? I've been reading conflicting articles that say "Video2" is the firmware.


----------



## bluer101

MrMonkeeMan said:


> Can anyone confirm that the top number is the correct firmware? I've been reading conflicting articles that say "Video2" is the firmware.


Yes the top is correct. I just updated mine today too.


----------



## MrMonkeeMan

bluer101 said:


> Yes the top is correct. I just updated mine today too.


Awesome Thank You!

My refurbished unit came updated with 1.14 and I thought I had 1.11 or something because of this video from projector reviews:


----------



## bluer101

MrMonkeeMan said:


> Awesome Thank You!
> 
> My refurbished unit came updated with 1.14 and I thought I had 1.11 or something because of this video from projector reviews:
> 
> https://youtu.be/u2YLbgIYQYQ


The video is wrong, your good.


----------



## momofx

marcosphoto said:


> Um, too late. Haha. Bought the 4k ultra right after my last post, *told the wife she just had to deal with it*. Reviewers had said everything you did, I couldn't resist as I love the movie so. It was on sale for $55 CDN (probably equivalent to around $40ish US). I shopped around for literally 3 days and finally I made my choice this morning when Amazon.com had it for $60+! (Canadians getting a better price than Americans, what a rarity).
> 
> 
> 
> Now remain 2 problems that stem from this purchase:
> 
> *1 - forcing the wife to watch them all again,*
> 
> 2 - waiting for it to arrive at the front door.



LOL - Just watch it by yourself if she don't like it, but that's just me - we've been together too long lol. About the Matrix Trilogy 4K, the picture is definately better and the sound is also better. If you are a Matrix fan, you will like it


----------



## morty343

rationalxde said:


> I found my new 5040UB has this auto iris HDD type of noise, is turning auto iris off the only way to get rid off this noise?
> 
> 
> Thanks.



Mine does the same thing, and yes, disabling auto iris has been the only way to stop it. However, I have learned the only time I notice it is when switching through menus, changing inputs etc. When viewing any programming, I can't seem to hear it.


----------



## Llamas

Just got my refurb 5040UB, turned it on, and there's a nice grapefruit-sized, red splotch in the middle of the picture. Do they QC these things before they send them back out?


----------



## Frichard

Llamas said:


> Just got my refurb 5040UB, turned it on, and there's a nice grapefruit-sized, red splotch in the middle of the picture. Do they QC these things before they send them back out?


I don't think they do! I'm waiting to test out my third unit.


----------



## slinger45

Has anyone ever experienced a light "flash" when watching things? I've seen it a couple times but only when watching HDR movies through itunes, nowhere else.


----------



## Frichard

slinger45 said:


> Has anyone ever experienced a light "flash" when watching things? I've seen it a couple times but only when watching HDR movies through itunes, nowhere else.


Oh my god yes! Yesterday!
I thought I was just tired! xD


----------



## slinger45

Frichard said:


> Oh my god yes! Yesterday!
> I thought I was just tired! xD


What were you watching? And on what?


----------



## Frichard

slinger45 said:


> What were you watching? And on what?


I was watching Planet Earth II via Plex on my Invidia Shield.
4k HDR @24 bt2020

I also tried afterwards "Our Planet" on Netflix
4K HDR @24 bt2020

All of this was in eco. I put it in high lamp for a second and back to eco.
It seems to have resolve the issue.

PS: we got the same cheap atmos speaker! xD They are pretty good for the price tho.


----------



## Morphx2

Frichard said:


> Before using these setting I thought the image was too dark.
> But with those I like it very much. I like it better then the SDR version.
> There's way more saturation in the color and better contrast between shades. It gives a really good sense of depth.
> It's more true to life in my opinion.
> 
> I do get that some people like the picture to be very very bright but I think it's bright enough.
> If you want even brighter HDR you can use Auto(Bright) but you loss some of that sweet sweet contrast and saturation.
> 
> I get why you revert to SDR but why 1080p?


I cant find 4K SDR material.

Outputting the Shield to SDR for 4K material looks strange/washed out.


----------



## Frichard

Morphx2 said:


> I cant find 4K SDR material.
> 
> Outputting the Shield to SDR for 4K material looks strange/washed out.


Try some of the setting from the PDF I shared not long ago. It's where I took the seeting for HDR:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-619.html#post59072558


----------



## Morphx2

Frichard said:


> Try some of the setting from the PDF I shared not long ago. It's where I took the seeting for HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-619.html#post59072558


I tried all those settings too. Eventually I took one of them and kinda customized it a little bit.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## lazlovision

cubsfan said:


> I had the same problem watching a hockey game a couple of days ago. When the camera was focused on the game, (ice) constant flicker. Camera on the crowd, or the announcers, no flicker. Back on the ice, flicker. Next day i pulled the plug out of the power conditioner that all my gear is plugged into , and pulled out another power conditioner thats been "on ice" (storage) for a couple of years, and all flicker has ceased . It is plugged into a different circuit also. It has also helped with the pink push i was getting on the right side of the screen in white and bright areas. Almost totally gone. Just at 100 hours on the bulb , so i'm hoping to calibrate this weekend, and dial everything in.


Interesting... I run my gear through a CP1000PFCLCD so I wonder if that makes a difference for flicker. I'd rather not run without it but I don't have anything to swap it out and test with. Since it's only occasional flickers on white content I think i'll just live with it. Last projector I had (W1070) blew the bulb on what I think was a power spike.


----------



## Frichard

lazlovision said:


> Interesting... I run my gear through a CP1000PFCLCD so I wonder if that makes a difference for flicker. I'd rather not run without it but I don't have anything to swap it out and test with. Since it's only occasional flickers on white content I think i'll just live with it. Last projector I had (W1070) blew the bulb on what I think was a power spike.


A simple line conditioner would of protect your projector from a power spike.
But the UPS is not the problem since it happens to me too sometimes and I don't have one.


----------



## DavidinGA

carlobenavidesahavia said:


> Quick question for 5040ub owners will I be able to throw from this room corner because I don't have enough length right infront of the screen but can put it in this corner to be able to reach 12 to 13 feet planning on buying a 115" 2.35:1 silver screen acoustic screen to cover the whole room width and just put the speakers behind the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk



Eh, what are the dimensions of that room? It looks pretty small for a projector setup.

I think you might be way better off tossing an 85" flat panel in there than the PJ....


----------



## jonathan thornton

So I got my refurb 5040ub yesterday. I think I was one of the last to get the $1,151 price. I noticed the right half of the screen is blurry after setting up. Looking at the lens there are 3 huge scratches about 2” long on the right side. I called support today and after being on the phone for an hour was told they had no more in stock. That I needed to check the website and call back when I see they have stock. Is this normal???


----------



## marcosphoto

jonathan thornton said:


> So I got my refurb 5040ub yesterday. I think I was one of the last to get the $1,151 price. I noticed the right half of the screen is blurry after setting up. Looking at the lens there are 3 huge scratches about 2” long on the right side. I called support today and after being on the phone for an hour was told they had no more in stock. That I needed to check the website and call back when I see they have stock. Is this normal???


One of the reasons I bought the 5040 was because of stories about unparalleled customer support, so far I have been less than impressed with the low level support team and I've heard nothing but nightmares about the replacement and refurb units and unhappy customers. So far (knock on wood) I have been ok with mine but I'm very worried what the future holds for my $4000 projector. Maybe should have bought the JVC.


----------



## Frichard

jonathan thornton said:


> So I got my refurb 5040ub yesterday. I think I was one of the last to get the $1,151 price. I noticed the right half of the screen is blurry after setting up. Looking at the lens there are 3 huge scratches about 2” long on the right side. I called support today and after being on the phone for an hour was told they had no more in stock. That I needed to check the website and call back when I see they have stock. Is this normal???


Yup! It's "normal" !
I don't think they do much quality control unfortunately.
I'm waiting on my third projector . . .


----------



## cubsfan

lazlovision said:


> Interesting... I run my gear through a CP1000PFCLCD so I wonder if that makes a difference for flicker. I'd rather not run without it but I don't have anything to swap it out and test with. Since it's only occasional flickers on white content I think i'll just live with it. Last projector I had (W1070) blew the bulb on what I think was a power spike.



To expand the discussion a little more, the flicker was on my C--c--t feed which was pretty much low quality earlier this week , and looked horrible. It improved a lot yesterday. We'll see how it continues. Always another brick in the equation, to throw everything off in trying to get to the bottom of things.


The power conditioner now on the main system is an B--k-n PF60 purchased about 8 years ago. It replaced the M-n---r HTS3500 mkll , which got hit with one too many power outages, that i get all too frequently here. Half the outlets went dead after an outage/surge, so out it went. The pf60 improved the audio as soon as i plugged everything back in. The audio seemed to be much more powerful and "in your face" as an amplifier with more watts does. Never noticed any improvement or downgrade in video quality, so i was a happy camper. 



Enter the 5040 into the mix last week . Pulled out the 3500 mkll after all the issues, and the video improved dramatically, at least with flicker and red/pink push. 

Now i'm considering a power regenerator unit, but that's for another day when funds allow it.


----------



## tibimakai

carlobenavidesahavia said:


> Quick question for 5040ub owners will I be able to throw from this room corner because I don't have enough length right infront of the screen but can put it in this corner to be able to reach 12 to 13 feet planning on buying a 115" 2.35:1 silver screen acoustic screen to cover the whole room width and just put the speakers behind the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Do you even have room above the door, to fit this pj? It is a big pj.


----------



## jamesyates

*Help w/ 1.14 Upgrade*

Hi Everyone, Many of you have been able to update to 1.14. I have not from 1.13. This is what I am using.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ZMYEMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.costco.com/sandisk-cz600-cruzer-glide-usb-3.0-256-gb-flash-drive.product.100290584.html

When I start the procedure the usb drive does not light up and the projector does not seem to go into update mode. Any ideas? Thanks


----------



## Superman2

Does anyone know how to turn off HDR on a 4k Firestick so I don’t have to deal with it with the limitations of the HDMI 10gbs? I gone into settings and turned HDR to adaptive, but that doesn’t work. Anyone using a firestick with their 5040? ( I have the 4010)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Frichard

Superman2 said:


> Does anyone know how to turn off HDR on a 4k Firestick so I don’t have to deal with it with the limitations of the HDMI 10gbs? I gone into settings and turned HDR to adaptive, but that doesn’t work. Anyone using a firestick with their 5040? ( I have the 4010)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 Set your resolution to 4K @60Hz. HDR wont be pass because of the limitation.


Otherwise the projector can play HDR fine at 4K @30Hz or 1080P @60Hz.


----------



## Superman2

Frichard said:


> Set your resolution to 4K @60Hz. HDR wont be pass because of the limitation.
> 
> 
> Otherwise the projector can play HDR fine at 4K @30Hz or 1080P @60Hz.




Thank you. I will try that tomorrow.

I’ve all but given up on HDR for a projector. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## carlobenavidesahavia

tibimakai said:


> Do you even have room above the door, to fit this pj? It is a big pj.


I can reverse that door to open outwards... but if it will be too much of a hassle I might just turn my living room into the home theater....

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## carlobenavidesahavia

DavidinGA said:


> Eh, what are the dimensions of that room? It looks pretty small for a projector setup.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you might be way better off tossing an 85" flat panel in there than the PJ....


Yeah thinking about just turning my living room into a home theater I already have a 65" samsung..... really want to get a projector for the next step up.....

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## carlobenavidesahavia

DavidinGA said:


> Eh, what are the dimensions of that room? It looks pretty small for a projector setup.
> 
> 
> 
> I think you might be way better off tossing an 85" flat panel in there than the PJ....


Here are the dimensions of the tiny room length 10-10 feet, width 8-9 feet, height 7-8 feet. Will just put it in the living room if it's not feasivle and turn that room into my gym.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

marcosphoto said:


> One of the reasons I bought the 5040 was because of stories about unparalleled customer support, so far I have been less than impressed with the low level support team and I've heard nothing but nightmares about the replacement and refurb units and unhappy customers. So far (knock on wood) I have been ok with mine but I'm very worried what the future holds for my $4000 projector. Maybe should have bought the JVC.



Me, too. My 6040 was my second Epson, and customer service is big with me, and I was happy to upgrade to another Epson. Then I started dealing with their quality control. Those new to the thread can search my previous posts here, but the story ends with my selling my fourth defective refurb to a friend with a bar who didn't care about the PQas much as I do, and got a Sony.


----------



## Azekecse

jamesyates said:


> Hi Everyone, Many of you have been able to update to 1.14. I have not from 1.13. This is what I am using.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ZMYEMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> https://www.costco.com/sandisk-cz600-cruzer-glide-usb-3.0-256-gb-flash-drive.product.100290584.html
> 
> When I start the procedure the usb drive does not light up and the projector does not seem to go into update mode. Any ideas? Thanks


You should use the USB port on the PJ, it looks like you're utilizing the service port. Make sure the f/w is at the root of the drive and remains zipped. I also found that USB 2.0 works better that USB 3.0. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## RedPills4All

jamesyates said:


> Hi Everyone, Many of you have been able to update to 1.14. I have not from 1.13. This is what I am using.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ZMYEMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> https://www.costco.com/sandisk-cz600-cruzer-glide-usb-3.0-256-gb-flash-drive.product.100290584.html
> 
> When I start the procedure the usb drive does not light up and the projector does not seem to go into update mode. Any ideas? Thanks


I had the same problem. I tried everything, probably about 5 different USB sticks. I even called support and they said I had a bad unit and they wanted to do a return. The projector lights would come on, and then shut off, and no FW update. Someone posted that the stick had to be FAT32, not FAT, so I even tried to carve out a partition on the stick smaller than 4GB, formatted FAT32, and went that route - didn't work.

In the end, based on suggestions from other forum members, the only thing that worked for me was using an old USB 2.0 drive that had a total size less than 4GB, formatted FAT32. I'm not sure if it has to be USB 2.0, but I think the size will matter. Hope this helps!


----------



## carlobenavidesahavia

roland6465 said:


> Me, too. My 6040 was my second Epson, and customer service is big with me, and I was happy to upgrade to another Epson. Then I started dealing with their quality control. Those new to the thread can search my previous posts here, but the story ends with my selling my fourth defective refurb to a friend with a bar who didn't care about the PQas much as I do, and got a Sony.


So their refurbished units have a ton of problems maybe I should just go benq or jvc

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Odysea

I purchased a refurb 5040ub and have been blown away. Hoping the horror stories are a thing of the past and/or a minority. We will see in a year though!

What is the best hd fury device to obtain 4k hdr 10bit 24hz from a xbox one x? Or 4k 60hz 8 bit. That or should I just get a apple tv 4k for movie streaming?


----------



## Frichard

Odysea said:


> I purchased a refurb 5040ub and have been blown away. Hoping the horror stories are a thing of the past and/or a minority. We will see in a year though!
> 
> What is the best hd fury device to obtain 4k hdr 10bit 24hz from a xbox one x? Or 4k 60hz 8 bit. That or should I just get a apple tv 4k for movie streaming?


It's not a thing of the past. I bought my 5040ub less than a month ago and I'm waiting for my third one.
I hope the next one will be perfect.

I wish you luck.


----------



## DavidinGA

carlobenavidesahavia said:


> Here are the dimensions of the tiny room length 10-10 feet, width 8-9 feet, height 7-8 feet. Will just put it in the living room if it's not feasivle and turn that room into my gym.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


I would go with the living room.

That room might fit the pj and screen put your also going to have a hard time with proper sound setup/quality in such a small space too.


----------



## welldun

mudfrog said:


> When I calibrated my 5040UB using the WOW disc, I did so using Bright Cinema for HDR content and Natural for SDR content. Obviously I was guessing at HDR as I have no idea how to calibrate for that. Does everyone use one input for both HDR and SDR or separate ones?
> 
> 
> Also, when watching HDR content, the whites (highlights) seem to be blown out. I'm sure this is due to the HDR not being properly calibrated. Can you copy Bright Cinema so you can have an HDR version that can be visually calibrated using HDR content then have an SDR version for non HDR content that is calibrated with the calibration disc?


try the Spears and Munsil UHD calibration disc. I used it in conjunction with the blue filter from my DVE calibration disc. I calibrated both SDR and HDR and I'm comfortable with the results.


----------



## DavidinGA

roland6465 said:


> Me, too. My 6040 was my second Epson, and customer service is big with me, and I was happy to upgrade to another Epson. Then I started dealing with their quality control. Those new to the thread can search my previous posts here, but the story ends with my selling my fourth defective refurb to a friend with a bar who didn't care about the PQas much as I do, and got a Sony.


Yeah, the qc is a complete crap-shoot with these refurb's. My first 5040 refurb displayed half the image blurry no matter what I changed through it's optics. My second one that I ended up keeping has some cosmetic issues on the physical case, but I wasn't willing to risk another lottery pick and end up with something worse.

I also keep in mind that should I have problems later down the road (within the 2 year warranty window) their is a high chance Epson won't have any 5040 units left and so I'll get upgraded to a refurb 5050 unit


----------



## Frichard

carlobenavidesahavia said:


> Here are the dimensions of the tiny room length 10-10 feet, width 8-9 feet, height 7-8 feet. Will just put it in the living room if it's not feasivle and turn that room into my gym.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Way too smal for this pj. It would also be a waste since you can't get a big screen in that room. Heat would probably be a problem also.

This room would be nice for a tv. You would get a better picture and an appropriate size screen.


----------



## Superman2

Frichard said:


> Set your resolution to 4K @60Hz. HDR wont be pass because of the limitation.
> 
> 
> Otherwise the projector can play HDR fine at 4K @30Hz or 1080P @60Hz.




I just did it but still getting HDR per the menu - 4k/60 8 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Frichard

Superman2 said:


> I just did it but still getting HDR per the menu - 4k/60 8 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hmm if I remember correctly it did the trick on my Nvidia Shield . . . maybe I'm wrong!
Is the 5040ub force to SDR?


----------



## Superman2

Frichard said:


> Hmm if I remember correctly it did the trick on my Nvidia Shield . . . maybe I'm wrong!
> 
> Is the 5040ub force to SDR?




I have a 4010, not sure how to force SDR 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Superman2 said:


> I just did it but still getting HDR per the menu - 4k/60 8 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


4K 60Hz HDR at 8bit will fit in 10GB bandwidth, it will not fit in 4K 60Hz HDR in 10bit.


----------



## Superman2

noob00224 said:


> 4K 60Hz HDR at 8bit will fit in 10GB bandwidth, it will not fit in 4K 60Hz HDR in 10bit.




I’m just trying to eliminate HDR alltogether as it’s too washed out and dark compared to regular SDR. I’d like to keep the 4k if possible, with SDR.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Frichard

Superman2 said:


> I have a 4010, not sure how to force SDR
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh!! Didn't notice that!

You should ask that in the 4010 forum then !!
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...inema-4050-owner-s-thread-4.html#post58916234


----------



## noob00224

Superman2 said:


> I’m just trying to eliminate HDR alltogether as it’s too washed out and dark compared to regular SDR. I’d like to keep the 4k if possible, with SDR.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What's the source?


----------



## Superman2

Frichard said:


> Oh!! Didn't notice that!
> 
> 
> 
> You should ask that in the 4010 forum then !!
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...inema-4050-owner-s-thread-4.html#post58916234




Pretend I have the 5040. 

Source is 4k Firestick. Trying to stop it from using HDR. 

For example, with an Xbox I can simple uncheck HDR10 and all is well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Superman2 said:


> Pretend I have the 5040.
> 
> Source is 4k Firestick. Trying to stop it from using HDR.
> 
> For example, with an Xbox I can simple uncheck HDR10 and all is well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not sure how to strip the HDR and keep the resolution.
The Panasonic UB420/800/9000 has been mentioned in dealing with too dark HDR.


----------



## Frichard

Superman2 said:


> Pretend I have the 5040.
> 
> Source is 4k Firestick. Trying to stop it from using HDR.
> 
> For example, with an Xbox I can simple uncheck HDR10 and all is well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Alright, upon reading a little.

There's no way on the firestick to fully disable HDR. Adaptive being your best bet.
Adaptive will send HDR signal only if the display supports it.
So like I said before. Try to force SDR on your 4010.
In the 5040ub it's under Signal > Advanced > Dynamic Range


----------



## lastditch

Frichard said:


> Yup! It's "normal" !
> I don't think they do much quality control unfortunately.
> I'm waiting on my third projector . . .


LOL Same. We are probably trading with each other. One point I made, was that I was not going to check a website every day and call THEM. They can call me, and they did, third one should arrive by Mon.


----------



## Odysea

Frichard said:


> Superman2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pretend I have the 5040.
> 
> Source is 4k Firestick. Trying to stop it from using HDR.
> 
> For example, with an Xbox I can simple uncheck HDR10 and all is well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, upon reading a little.
> 
> There's no way on the firestick to fully disable HDR. Adaptive being your best bet.
> Adaptive will send HDR signal only if the display supports it.
> So like I said before. Try to force SDR on your 4010.
> In the 5040ub it's under Signal > Advanced > Dynamic Range
Click to expand...

Ooh, that is extremely helpful! So if I force SDR my xbox one x should not have an issue with 4k right?


----------



## jamesyates

RedPills4All said:


> I had the same problem. I tried everything, probably about 5 different USB sticks. I even called support and they said I had a bad unit and they wanted to do a return. The projector lights would come on, and then shut off, and no FW update. Someone posted that the stick had to be FAT32, not FAT, so I even tried to carve out a partition on the stick smaller than 4GB, formatted FAT32, and went that route - didn't work.
> 
> In the end, based on suggestions from other forum members, the only thing that worked for me was using an old USB 2.0 drive that had a total size less than 4GB, formatted FAT32. I'm not sure if it has to be USB 2.0, but I think the size will matter. Hope this helps!


Thanks the FAT32 did the trick on a old usb drive. Thanks again. Now what does version 114 do? Any official explanation. It took a while to upload and install. 

As a side note I bought this reconditioned from Epson and it works great. I consider my self lucky. I have been able to find any problems with it such as blotched in the picture etc. Epson really has to up their communication with customers from engineering. I imagine they waste a lot of money shipping broken projectors around the country.


----------



## Frichard

lastditch said:


> LOL Same. We are probably trading with each other. One point I made, was that I was not going to check a website every day and call THEM. They can call me, and they did, third one should arrive by Mon.


I doupt it I'm in Canada lol
I was suppose to get a new one ship last monday. I call them back today. 
Turns out they didn't actually have one in stock. 
They offered me a refund or to wait some more. I'm tinking about taking the refund but then again I don't have anything to buy in this price range . . .




Odysea said:


> Ooh, that is extremely helpful! So if I force SDR my xbox one x should not have an issue with 4k right?


Well It's just a suggestion. I'm not sure it will work . . .lol
One thing that is sure to work is an hdfury linker but it cost a little under 200$


----------



## marcosphoto

Maybe consider buying a non-4K sony or the 4K-JVC, I'm pretty sure I priced some out in our area around the same price as the Epson (at normal retail pricing). I'm pretty worried about mine now, may have decided different if I had known they were so unreliable. Or, would have waited 1 month longer and got the 5050 and swallowed the extra money knowing they are likely better.


----------



## Superman2

Odysea said:


> Ooh, that is extremely helpful! So if I force SDR my xbox one x should not have an issue with 4k right?




That’s what I’ve done and it’s been working great. Nothing dim or washed out, just looks incredible! I’m not a big fan of HDR, one of the very few it seems


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lastditch

Frichard said:


> I doupt it I'm in Canada lol
> I was suppose to get a new one ship last monday. I call them back today.
> Turns out they didn't actually have one in stock.
> They offered me a refund or to wait some more. I'm tinking about taking the refund but then again I don't have anything to buy in this price range . . .
> 
> 
> 
> Well It's just a suggestion. I'm not sure it will work . . .lol
> One thing that is sure to work is an hdfury linker but it cost a little under 200$


Lol they said the same thing to me, then called me back on wed to tell me one shipped go figure. Anyways... it arrived, hooked it up, no dust blobs other than an out of focus blue one but I cant tell. Also a small bit of pink hue at the top right of the projector, not as bad as the last one. I think at this point Im going to cut my losses and keep this one for now. 

One thing that I noticed was what appeared to be a blue pixel, that shows on an all black screen with no input, can only see it from within 3 or 4 feet of the screen. Not sure what that is?


----------



## lastditch

Looking for some help.

I have the epson 5040ub hooked up to a shieldtv pro. The problem Im having, is that I like to keep the shield GUI to 4k 60hz because its more responsive. Now when I load kodi, the shield changes to 1080p at 60hz for the gui which is correct. But when I play a 4k movie, the resolution changes to 4k, at 23.98hz with bt709 HDR, which is not correct. If I go to the display settings of the shield, I can choose 4k at 23.98hz 10bit HDR ready, and the movie will display that. What I am looking for is the shield to do this for me automatically. 

I thought that was what the beta match color space option was supposed to do, not sure if its a bug or if I have to do something else?


----------



## Xavier3

Frichard said:


> What do you how's my shield outputting it?
> I put my resolution @4k 23.976 HDR Ready . . .
> 
> On the 5040ub here's my setting:
> 
> Color mode: Bright Cinema
> Brightness: 50
> Contrast: 100
> Color saturation: 62
> Advanced
> Gamma: 0,6,12,16,23,29,32,32,32
> Power: medium or eco
> Auto iris: speed High
> 
> Signal Advanced Menu
> Dynamic range: auto


Thanks so much for posting your settings. I’ve had my 5040ub since June, and HDR has always been too dim. 

My main question for you or others is: Does putting the contrast at 100 seem like a bad idea with Dynamic range set to auto (which means HDR will pass through as HDR)? Does the custom gamma settings make up for that? I gotta admit that my HTPC Win10 desktop looks absolutely whack with these settings, but when playing a UHD movie, they have never looked so good!

I thought that the 100 contrast was when using an HDR input but then setting the PJ to SDR as in the traditional HarperVision method.

However I did notice that your settings were based on HarperVision Bright Cinema settings, and that guy definitely knew what he was doing, so what do I know 

Just asking for curiosities sake. Thanks!


----------



## roland6465

lastditch said:


> LOL Same. We are probably trading with each other.



This made me think... Y'all who are on the refurb revolving door should get together and get a sheet of serial numbers going to see if the same units are being sent out with the same issue it was returned for.


----------



## marcosphoto

I think if you're going to put together serial numbers, everyone should make a record and send it to the powers that be at Epson. This is horrible, someone out there has to listen!?


----------



## sleepingatsea

RedPills4All said:


> This is great advice as I've been struggling with HDR issues. I just picked up the Panny 420 to give it another shot (I tried the 820 before). I think with your settings it definitely helps except I am still seeing that blacks are looking more gray than black, and some movies (Matrix 2 for example) are so dark. When I jack up the dynamic adjustment, yes the brighter scenes look amazing, but the dark scenes (night cityscapes for example) are washed out.
> 
> Can you tell me how to set the Gamma to 2.4? The only thing I can see is -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, or manual adjustment of the graph. I've seen people talk about 2.3 or 2.4 but I'm not really sure how to do that. Thanks!


Sorry, I am actually using the settings below which has a custom gamma, not 2.4. Give these a go!

1080p/4K (REC709/SDR2020) - These settings can be used for 1080p bluray, PS4 4K (no HDR) or using SDR2020 from your source.

Picture: Natural
Brightness: 51
Contrast: 62
Color Saturation: 50
Tint: 50
Sharpness: 9,9,9
Color Temp: 6000k
Skin Tone: 4
Image Enhancement: Preset 3

Advanced -
Gamma -1
RGBCMY -
R 60,70,34
G 56,60,44
B 95,79,33
C 51,14,77
M 47, 44, 47
Y 52,58,44
Epson Super White: Off
Power: Medium
Auto Iris: Normal

Signal->Advanced-
Dynamic Range: SDR
HDMI Video Range: Normal
Colour Space: Auto
Image: Fine


----------



## lastditch

Finally got an acceptable 5040ub through the roulette lottery, and been working on dealing with all the different combinations of settings to get everything working. My conclusion after probably 20 plus hours of reading and configuring stuff, HDR almost seems like its not worth the effort.

I did use "harper vision" and yes the image looks great but most of the time I have a hard time telling the different between his settings and just using natural and auto bright for hdr. Yes I made sure to set the advanced signal settings to SDR for harpers settings. It does look good, and Ive I spend some time looking at screen caps I can usually tell the difference. But between having to have like 4 different memories saved, and THEN you still have to go into advanced settings, it just seems like its more hassle than its worth?

Honestly not looking for anyone to convince me or prove anything to anyone. I know Ive seen a few comments on here that voice the same frustrations with HDR. Just wanted to add my input. 

I've had to mess around with the shield, the color space, the frame rate, HDR, and all that that comes with, including laggy GUI in shield because you have to set it to 23.98hz, etc etc. It just seems like HDR and the trouble it brings with 4k to be a non starter for a lot of us. I really wish I could just use 4k movies without having to deal with all the rest of it. I am getting to the point where I think I will just use my remux blurays since they seem to look just as good as the 4k material from 10 feet on 120 inch screen. IDK maybe its just my eyes getting older?

I am hoping in the near future all this HDR and color space matures a bit more, and all the apps and appliances will detect the signal correctly without all the messing around with setting those things. 

Sorry for the long winded rant, just wanted to share my perspective since I've read all yours in the past 600 plus pages =) If anyone would like to share their thoughts or critiques on what I said I am more than happy to hear them.


----------



## DavidinGA

lastditch said:


> Finally got an acceptable 5040ub through the roulette lottery, and been working on dealing with all the different combinations of settings to get everything working. My conclusion after probably 20 plus hours of reading and configuring stuff, HDR almost seems like its not worth the effort.
> 
> 
> 
> I did use "harper vision" and yes the image looks great but most of the time I have a hard time telling the different between his settings and just using natural and auto bright for hdr. Yes I made sure to set the advanced signal settings to SDR for harpers settings. It does look good, and Ive I spend some time looking at screen caps I can usually tell the difference. But between having to have like 4 different memories saved, and THEN you still have to go into advanced settings, it just seems like its more hassle than its worth?
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly not looking for anyone to convince me or prove anything to anyone. I know Ive seen a few comments on here that voice the same frustrations with HDR. Just wanted to add my input.
> 
> 
> 
> I've had to mess around with the shield, the color space, the frame rate, HDR, and all that that comes with, including laggy GUI in shield because you have to set it to 23.98hz, etc etc. It just seems like HDR and the trouble it brings with 4k to be a non starter for a lot of us. I really wish I could just use 4k movies without having to deal with all the rest of it. I am getting to the point where I think I will just use my remux blurays since they seem to look just as good as the 4k material from 10 feet on 120 inch screen. IDK maybe its just my eyes getting older?
> 
> 
> 
> I am hoping in the near future all this HDR and color space matures a bit more, and all the apps and appliances will detect the signal correctly without all the messing around with setting those things.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long winded rant, just wanted to share my perspective since I've read all yours in the past 600 plus pages =) If anyone would like to share their thoughts or critiques on what I said I am more than happy to hear them.


HDR is fantastic with the 5040, IF YOU USE MADVR.

Otherwise your assessment is about right lol 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## lastditch

So I hooked up my old non 4k hdmi reciever and while using the shield the projector info says video input is Rob video. Is that correct? I can force the shield to output to 12 bit 4.4.4 YCbCr and then the output shows component. Which is correct? And if it's rgb video should I used expanded or normal?


----------



## Superman2

DavidinGA said:


> HDR is fantastic with the 5040, IF YOU USE MADVR.
> 
> Otherwise your assessment is about right lol
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




Does madVR add nits?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Xavier3

Superman2 said:


> Does madVR add nits?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No. Nothing can add nits other than the actual projector hardware/lamp.

What it does is convert HDR to SDR in a way that brings out the darker parts better and make them brighter. Requires a very strong nvidia based video card though (read=1070 or better). And it doesn’t help for an streaming services like Netflix or Disney+.


----------



## DavidinGA

Superman2 said:


> Does madVR add nits?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It doesn't "add nits" but it does allow you to make use of your pj's higher sdr mode nits, so in conclusion you could say madvr provides the means to make better use of you pj's nits.

With MadVR I'm able to get almost 80 nits on a 150" screen in medium lamp and natural mode.

Without madVR and using Epson's hdr modes I'd probably be in the 50 nit range or less lol

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## lastditch

Something that also sucks is that when you have these different settings for hdr and sdr and the like, your gui for kodi looks all jacked colors wise. So going through your movies looks awful when looking for something to watch. I really hope in the coming years all this stuff gets hashed out and some of these things are automatically switched, much like frame rate is.


----------



## Superman2

Xavier3 said:


> No. Nothing can add nits other than the actual projector hardware/lamp.
> 
> 
> 
> What it does is convert HDR to SDR in a way that brings out the darker parts better and make them brighter. Requires a very strong nvidia based video card though (read=1070 or better). And it doesn’t help for an streaming services like Netflix or Disney+.




Thanks for the responses!
So is MadVR the same or better as what the Panasonic’s are doing with the Tone mapping/HDR optimizer?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

lastditch said:


> Sorry for the long winded rant, just wanted to share my perspective since I've read all yours in the past 600 plus pages =) If anyone would like to share their thoughts or critiques on what I said I am more than happy to hear them.


100%. I have settings for both HDR and SDR BT2020 and in doing the comparisons it's definitely not a difference I can see. For this reason I'm sticking with HDR-SDR conversion and using the digital cinema mode for WCG for 4k discs- with the Panny UB820 I cant get the brightness perfect. With this, all content looks the same and no messed up GUI on PS4 or whatever. Calling it a day now! 

Also, a few have noted 1080p bluray vs 4k discs - I can most definitely see a huge uptick in resolution/color from bluray discs to 4K discs for sure. Watched the Joker 4K last night and it was just beautiful. 

I just picked up an Elite Saker tab tension 100" screen, currently using a cheap ebay portable 100" so keen to see how this screen increases performance for me!


----------



## Morphx2

Oops


----------



## Morphx2

lastditch said:


> Finally got an acceptable 5040ub through the roulette lottery, and been working on dealing with all the different combinations of settings to get everything working. My conclusion after probably 20 plus hours of reading and configuring stuff, HDR almost seems like its not worth the effort.
> 
> 
> 
> I did use "harper vision" and yes the image looks great but most of the time I have a hard time telling the different between his settings and just using natural and auto bright for hdr. Yes I made sure to set the advanced signal settings to SDR for harpers settings. It does look good, and Ive I spend some time looking at screen caps I can usually tell the difference. But between having to have like 4 different memories saved, and THEN you still have to go into advanced settings, it just seems like its more hassle than its worth?
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly not looking for anyone to convince me or prove anything to anyone. I know Ive seen a few comments on here that voice the same frustrations with HDR. Just wanted to add my input.
> 
> 
> 
> I've had to mess around with the shield, the color space, the frame rate, HDR, and all that that comes with, including laggy GUI in shield because you have to set it to 23.98hz, etc etc. It just seems like HDR and the trouble it brings with 4k to be a non starter for a lot of us. I really wish I could just use 4k movies without having to deal with all the rest of it. I am getting to the point where I think I will just use my remux blurays since they seem to look just as good as the 4k material from 10 feet on 120 inch screen. IDK maybe its just my eyes getting older?
> 
> 
> 
> I am hoping in the near future all this HDR and color space matures a bit more, and all the apps and appliances will detect the signal correctly without all the messing around with setting those things.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the long winded rant, just wanted to share my perspective since I've read all yours in the past 600 plus pages =) If anyone would like to share their thoughts or critiques on what I said I am more than happy to hear them.


Try my settings for 4k hdr. Feel free to lower the gamma too.

http://imgur.com/gallery/ZpTCKE5

Make sure shield is set correctly for HDR and 4k. Works good for me.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## lastditch

jt7272 said:


> I watch it with a Shield TV and lock the framerate to 59.97. This prevents HDR (the Epson can only do 4kHDR at 30hz and below). Unfortunately the shield has issues with Disney+ and one of them is that 4K SDR isn't working at the moment. So I'm watching in 1080p, upscaled by the Shield.
> 
> You can probably set the Roku to fixed 60Hz and it may give you 4k SDR (this is what I get on Netflix and Amazon).


But what about 4k movies from disk or rips? Dont those just have hdr and you would need to rely on the shield roku or projector to do the tone mapping? And so the colors will not be correct?


----------



## Frichard

Xavier3 said:


> No. Nothing can add nits other than the actual projector hardware/lamp.
> 
> What it does is convert HDR to SDR in a way that brings out the darker parts better and make them brighter. Requires a very strong nvidia based video card though (read=1070 or better). And it doesn’t help for an streaming services like Netflix or Disney+.


I'm pretty sure you can use an AMD card for madvr !!


----------



## Xavier3

Superman2 said:


> Thanks for the responses!
> So is MadVR the same or better as what the Panasonic’s are doing with the Tone mapping/HDR optimizer?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't have personal experience with the Panny players. But from what I've read on forums, MadVR will produce better results, but requires far more tinkering to get right. I'm just getting into it right now, and I'm struggling with a few things myself.

For those using MadVR on your 5040s, can you please post your settings here or PM me? I'm using a Win10PC with an Nvidia video card. When I'm playing a UHD movie and using the Tone Mapping using pixel shaders option, the projector is reporting BT 709 and 8 bit. So I figure that means I'm losing WCG colour. Will tinker with it more, but is that the way its supposed to work, or are my settings wrong?


----------



## msikora

Hi guys, I'm having a real trouble of finding a good HDMI switch to use with my 5040UB (which I otherwise love). So far I have tried 2 from Amazon and both have severe issues. I have created a thread about my troubles, I would really appreciate if you guys could help me out:


----------



## blazin912

Still trying to plan my input path for my new PJ and media room.

We have netflix, amazon, and disney+

Planning to begin going to UHD disc backups, so we'll have local HDR and streaming through Amazon and Disney+ (netflix is just basic account).


Anyone use an HD Fury Diva or any of the HD Fury products to do tone mapping? I really don't want to build a 500W based HTPC. I switched to fire sticks around the home years ago when we cut the cord and haven't looked back. I'm ok with 80% of the tone mapping quality for 20% of the work. I'd go with a Panny disc player if it could stream MKVs over the network.

Thoughts?


----------



## Morphx2

blazin912 said:


> Still trying to plan my input path for my new PJ and media room.
> 
> 
> 
> We have netflix, amazon, and disney+
> 
> 
> 
> Planning to begin going to UHD disc backups, so we'll have local HDR and streaming through Amazon and Disney+ (netflix is just basic account).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone use an HD Fury Diva or any of the HD Fury products to do tone mapping? I really don't want to build a 500W based HTPC. I switched to fire sticks around the home years ago when we cut the cord and haven't looked back. I'm ok with 80% of the tone mapping quality for 20% of the work. I'd go with a Panny disc player if it could stream MKVs over the network.
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?


Same with me, if only I could do mkv on it

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Superman2 said:


> Thanks for the responses!
> So is MadVR the same or better as what the Panasonic’s are doing with the Tone mapping/HDR optimizer?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Madvr is considered the best tone mapper around. One of the reason is that it's dynamic, adjusts to every frame, while the Panasonic is static, takes the highest brightness in the movie and tone maps to that. Means that you might have to change if some scenes are too dark. Also the metadata is not always accurate, or missing. Madvr measures every frame.

It works on AMD cards, but it's being developed and tested on Nvidia.

The thread is here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2215490-madvr-player-support-thread-65.html


----------



## rlopapa

My 6040ub has a small greenish blue cloud circle that you only see when the unit turns on with no input. I bought it new 2 years ago but recently my HT room had the heating set to to 84 and the bulb burnt out. Epson is saying that the unit looks to have a optical engine failure and are sending me a replacement.

Now I’m scared with all the refurb issues people are having! Has anyone else had this type of issue? Would you keep yours or take a refurb?

Thanks!

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0xsTKeB1B6HhoyplAQrevThIg#Carlsbad


----------



## lastditch

rlopapa said:


> My 6040ub has a small greenish blue cloud circle that you only see when the unit turns on with no input. I bought it new 2 years ago but recently my HT room had the heating set to to 84 and the bulb burnt out. Epson is saying that the unit looks to have a optical engine failure and are sending me a replacement.
> 
> Now I’m scared with all the refurb issues people are having! Has anyone else had this type of issue? Would you keep yours or take a refurb?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> https://share.icloud.com/photos/0xsTKeB1B6HhoyplAQrevThIg#Carlsbad


If it's a circle on the screen that it's just dust blob.


----------



## Frichard

lastditch said:


> If it's a circle on the screen that it's just dust blob.


Yup!
Sounds like it's a dust blob. Try to put your projector on high lamp in high altitude mode.
Sometimes it can dislodge the dust or debris . . .


----------



## Odysea

Just impulse bought a hd fury integral for dirt cheap on eBay, and have no idea if it will actually help out my setup.

Currently I use a xbox one x, denon avr e400, and the epson 5040ub. I imagine you take the xbox out plug it into the hd fury, and have that output go into the receiver?


----------



## Frichard

DavidinGA said:


> HDR is fantastic with the 5040, IF YOU USE MADVR.
> 
> Otherwise your assessment is about right lol
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Can you share your setting on madvr and your 5040ub ?

I would like to see the difference it can make vs my shield and 5040 setting.


----------



## john hunter

HDR is also fantastic with the UB 420!!!
Might be a cheaper investment.


----------



## gene4ht

john hunter said:


> HDR is also fantastic with the UB 420!!!
> Might be a cheaper investment.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/202-...l-black-friday-cyber-monday.html#post59123252


----------



## inspector

This is for those that collect and watch 3D. I have a 110" PJ set at "0" DEPTH. There was discussion over at HTF about putting your BD player or PJ to the largest screen size and it might increase depth.


My BD player has no setting, but my PJ does. I put the screen size to 300" which puts the depth to 4. Now the depth has increased substantially. Try it , you'll be pleasantly surprised. I just watched












and it was awesome, plus it was filmed with 3D cameras.


----------



## Superman2

inspector said:


> This is for those that collect and watch 3D. I have a 110" PJ set at "0" DEPTH. There was discussion over at HTF about putting your BD player or PJ to the largest screen size and it might increase depth.
> 
> 
> My BD player has no setting, but my PJ does. I put the screen size to 300" which puts the depth to 4. Now the depth has increased substantially. Try it , you'll be pleasantly surprised. I just watched
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it was awesome, plus it was filmed with 3D cameras.




Cool, I will try it out, but that didn’t cause any ghosting/crosstalk??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

Frichard said:


> Can you share your setting on madvr and your 5040ub ?
> 
> I would like to see the difference it can make vs my shield and 5040 settings.


I don't have my madVR info on hand, but the attached image I found over on the madVR thread is pretty close to how mine is setup. My actual nits are set at 79.

I run the 5040 in natural mode, medium lamp, hdmi range ->extended, color space -> 2020, dynamic range ->SDR. 

I ran a basic contrast/brightness setup and have pretty well left everything else as it was.


----------



## inspector

Superman2 said:


> Cool, I will try it out, but that didn’t cause any ghosting/crosstalk??
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




None whats so ever.


----------



## ryudoadema

inspector said:


> This is for those that collect and watch 3D. I have a 110" PJ set at "0" DEPTH. There was discussion over at HTF about putting your BD player or PJ to the largest screen size and it might increase depth.
> 
> My BD player has no setting, but my PJ does. I put the screen size to 300" which puts the depth to 4. Now the depth has increased substantially. Try it , you'll be pleasantly surprised. I just watched
> 
> and it was awesome, plus it was filmed with 3D cameras.


Thanks! That's one of my favorite movies especially in 3d! I see you have a 6040 so the 5040 should have the same settings. I purchased a 5040 a couple months ago now, but have been moving in that time. This may persuade me to just open it up and shoot on a wall for the time being to try it out 

P.S.- I tried out an epson 2040 years ago and really enjoyed motion interpolation in 3d on it, even though I don't like it normally. Might be worth a try if you haven't already (and if I'm correct in thinking these epsons have that functionality in 3d).


----------



## inspector

ryudoadema said:


> Thanks! That's one of my favorite movies especially in 3d! I see you have a 6040 so the 5040 should have the same settings. I purchased a 5040 a couple months ago now, but have been moving in that time. This may persuade me to just open it up and shoot on a wall for the time being to try it out
> 
> P.S.- I tried out an epson 2040 years ago and really enjoyed motion interpolation in 3d on it, even though I don't like it normally. Might be worth a try if you haven't already (and if I'm correct in thinking these epsons have that functionality in 3d).



I don't have my PJ on but I think there is a FAST and FINE setting. I keep mine on FAST. I was watching a 3Der in FINE mode where dogs were running across the picture and they were very jerky in their movement. Put it on FAST and the dogs ran smoothly, so that's what I keep it on.


----------



## Frichard

DavidinGA said:


> I don't have my madVR info on hand, but the attached image I found over on the madVR thread is pretty close to how mine is setup. My actual nits are set at 79.
> 
> I run the 5040 in natural mode, medium lamp, hdmi range ->extended, color space -> 2020, dynamic range ->SDR.
> 
> I ran a basic contrast/brightness setup and have pretty well left everything else as it was.


Thx a lot!

How do you get all those setting in the hdr tab?

Mine looks like the attach document and the minimum nits is 100.


----------



## DavidinGA

Frichard said:


> Thx a lot!
> 
> How do you get all those setting in the hdr tab?
> 
> Mine looks like the attach document and the minimum nits is 100.


You need to install a beta build over the stock madVR program.

Download the latest build - http://madshi.net/madVRhdrMeasure113.zip

Unzip/extract that and then copy and paste those files over the existing files in your madvr installation directory. Then you'll see the newest hdr options.


----------



## Frichard

DavidinGA said:


> You need to install a beta build over the stock madVR program.
> 
> Download the latest build - http://madshi.net/madVRhdrMeasure113.zip
> 
> Unzip/extract that and then copy and paste those files over the existing files in your madvr installation directory. Then you'll see the newest hdr options.


Thank you very much. I watch and read a bunch of tutorial and none explained this. lol


----------



## nlr84

*Chief RPA Mounting Plate*

My old JVC projector died and I just purchased a 5040UB yesterday. I still have all of the universal (I think) mounting hardware, but the plate that connects to my RPA281 head isn't going to match the anchor holes on the 5040. I did some researching and found a model number for the 5040 plate of SLB357. Doing some searching, I've only been able to find it at BHPPHTOVIDEO (can't post a link), and it is sold out.

Does anyone know if any other plate would work for this projector/chief combo? Or know where some of these might be laying around? I'd rather not have to take down my current mount and drill new holes in the ceiling if I can help it.


----------



## DavidinGA

Frichard said:


> Thank you very much. I watch and read a bunch of tutorial and none explained this. lol


That was my exact problem when I first learned about madVR; everyone discussed everything as though I should somehow know all this stuff as a noob. lol


----------



## gene4ht

nlr84 said:


> My old JVC projector died and I just purchased a 5040UB yesterday. I still have all of the universal (I think) mounting hardware, but the plate that connects to my RPA281 head isn't going to match the anchor holes on the 5040. I did some researching and found a model number for the 5040 plate of SLB357. Doing some searching, I've only been able to find it at BHPPHTOVIDEO (can't post a link), and it is sold out.
> 
> Does anyone know if any other plate would work for this projector/chief combo? Or know where some of these might be laying around? I'd rather not have to take down my current mount and drill new holes in the ceiling if I can help it.


The SLB357 is the correct custom bracket for thei 5040/5050. This bracket by far is the most sturdy as it attaches to all 9 mounting holes on the projector. I’m not a fan of the newer universal spider leg design as it only provides 3-4 mounting points and appears to be less rigid than the SLB357 plate. I’m sure the SLB357 is still available from other dealers...try Visualapex, Projector People, or call Chief directly for their current dealers/retailers.


----------



## Daverey06

Hello everyone. I was hoping to get some advice from those of you knowledgeable on how to get the best looking HDR out of an Epson 5040UB combined with a Panasonic DP-UB820. Forgive my lack of knowledge as I am new to the home theater world and am trying to learn, but at first glance I don’t see a difference in picture quality between a 5040 and a good 1080p tv. I know the Epson isn’t true 4K, but I thought the difference would be more noticeable. 

I am currently using a Yescom 177" 16:9 Projection Screen with a 1.1 gain. My room is large with light colored walls, however I have blackout curtains in the room. I know these are all important factors when considering settings for a projector which is why I mention it. I am particularly interested in using Natural and Digital Cinema mode and was wondering based on what I’ve told you, if there are any ideal settings I should use to get the HDR to pop as much as possible on a projector screen? 

I appreciate any advice or direction you all can give me. Thanks and I am excited to be a part of this forum!


----------



## jt7272

lastditch said:


> But what about 4k movies from disk or rips? Dont those just have hdr and you would need to rely on the shield roku or projector to do the tone mapping? And so the colors will not be correct?


I use my Panasonic UB820 to play discs or rips that have HDR. The only catch is that the UB820 will not play files with lossless formats like Atmos. In this case I re-encode the audio to multi-channel FLAC and then mux.


----------



## jt7272

Daverey06 said:


> Hello everyone. I was hoping to get some advice from those of you knowledgeable on how to get the best looking HDR out of an Epson 5040UB combined with a Panasonic DP-UB820. Forgive my lack of knowledge as I am new to the home theater world and am trying to learn, but at first glance I don’t see a difference in picture quality between a 5040 and a good 1080p tv. I know the Epson isn’t true 4K, but I thought the difference would be more noticeable.
> 
> I am currently using a Yescom 177" 16:9 Projection Screen with a 1.1 gain. My room is large with light colored walls, however I have blackout curtains in the room. I know these are all important factors when considering settings for a projector which is why I mention it. I am particularly interested in using Natural and Digital Cinema mode and was wondering based on what I’ve told you, if there are any ideal settings I should use to get the HDR to pop as much as possible on a projector screen?
> 
> I appreciate any advice or direction you all can give me. Thanks and I am excited to be a part of this forum!


What kind of effort have you made to calibrate your projector? This is always my first question because it is so critical. Your environment and setup have such an effect on the image that some sort of calibration should always be made. For example, out of the box my 6040ub had a gamma of ~1.9, with the value being ~2.1 at low IRE and down to 1.7 at high IRE. This is mostly due to my room and projection screen. After calibrating and getting my gamma to be flat at 2.35 (my personal preference) the picture is outstanding.

I obviously recommend using a meter and software but that is not practical for many people. Perhaps others can chime in with the best ideas for doing it in a more simple way: setup discs, simple test patterns, etc.


----------



## MMoser

jt7272 said:


> What kind of effort have you made to calibrate your projector? This is always my first question because it is so critical. Your environment and setup have such an effect on the image that some sort of calibration should always be made. For example, out of the box my 6040ub had a gamma of ~1.9, with the value being ~2.1 at low IRE and down to 1.7 at high IRE. This is mostly due to my room and projection screen. After calibrating and getting my gamma to be flat at 2.35 (my personal preference) the picture is outstanding.
> 
> 
> 
> I obviously recommend using a meter and software but that is not practical for many people. Perhaps others can chime in with the best ideas for doing it in a more simple way: setup discs, simple test patterns, etc.


Any tips on calibrating HDR with a meter on a pj? 

I've got a good SDR setting and tried using it as a base when doing HDR with hcfr and calman, and wasn't a fan of either of my results. I'm using a Display Pro Plus. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jt7272

MMoser said:


> Any tips on calibrating HDR with a meter on a pj?
> 
> I've got a good SDR setting and tried using it as a base when doing HDR with hcfr and calman, and wasn't a fan of either of my results. I'm using a Display Pro Plus.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I use HCFR but the principle remains the same: Tone Mapping via BT2390 is necessary with our devices. From there you have some freedom to choose the diffuse white point and to some degree the slopes near min IRE and max IRE.

The most important factor when calibrating a project like this is choosing the diffuse white point. Too low and the picture will be too dark. Too high and you will lose all of the highlights that HDR can provide. 

Generally I like to have my diffuse white greater than 40 cd/m^2. On Natural mode I am able to achieve a max of ~90-100 cd/m^2. So choosing a diffuse white between 40 and 60 allows for a little bit of headroom for highlights.

The most difficult thing about this is adjusting your gamma controls to match the EOTF (analogous to gamma in SDR). You must choose your diffuse white and then spend a lot time dialing things in. Afterwards you may not like the look so then you have to choose a new diffuse white and start over. Unfortunately the 5040/6040 has no way to easily change this value.


----------



## inspector

MMoser said:


> Any tips on calibrating HDR with a meter on a pj?
> 
> I've got a good SDR setting and tried using it as a base when doing HDR with hcfr and calman, and wasn't a fan of either of my results. I'm using a Display Pro Plus.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



PM sent.


----------



## Frichard

DavidinGA said:


> That was my exact problem when I first learned about madVR; everyone discussed everything as though I should somehow know all this stuff as a noob. lol


So I tried to play with madvr yesterday a little.

So far I am not blown away with the difference but then again I didn't have much time to play with it. 
There's also something wrong because the setting I put in the hdr tag get revert to it's default setting when I change section.


----------



## DavidinGA

Frichard said:


> So I tried to play with madvr yesterday a little.
> 
> So far I am not blown away with the difference but then again I didn't have much time to play with it.
> There's also something wrong because the setting I put in the hdr tag get revert to it's default setting when I change section.


If the settings are not staying/saving then you're probably not even seeing the effects in the video.

I've never heard of the settings not saving. I can change any value and click apply or ok and they always stay.


----------



## Frichard

DavidinGA said:


> If the settings are not staying/saving then you're probably not even seeing the effects in the video.
> 
> I've never heard of the settings not saving. I can change any value and click apply or ok and they always stay.


It did change the picture. Very apparent when I check and uncheck "Ouput video in HDR format"
I'm at work right now but I tried to uninstall madvr and reinstalled it completly via teamviewer.
Still the setting do not stay! It's weird! xD


----------



## DavidinGA

Frichard said:


> It did change the picture. Very apparent when I check and uncheck "Ouput video in HDR format"
> 
> I'm at work right now but I tried to uninstall madvr and reinstalled it completly via teamviewer.
> 
> Still the setting do not stay! It's weird! xD


Hmm...weird.

Maybe someone will chime in with an answer on the saving issue. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Frichard

DavidinGA said:


> Hmm...weird.
> 
> Maybe someone will chime in with an answer on the saving issue.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I also noticed that the button Apply is not available when I change most of the setting.
I ask a question about it in the HTPC section.

Will see if someone can help me. lol


----------



## Llamas

Refurb 5040UB #2 has arrived and been installed. No obvious picture defects noted (yay!). Any common issues I should check for?


----------



## Frichard

Llamas said:


> Refurb 5040UB #2 has arrived and been installed. No obvious picture defects noted (yay!). Any common issues I should check for?


The most common is dust blob. Check if the lens is scratch. Check all modes. My "Digital cinema" doesnt work right.


----------



## noob00224

Frichard said:


> I also noticed that the button Apply is not available when I change most of the setting.
> I ask a question about it in the HTPC section.
> 
> Will see if someone can help me. lol


It was already replied on the madvr topic:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-h...vr-player-support-thread-65.html#post59174052


----------



## john hunter

Daverey06 said:


> Hello everyone. I was hoping to get some advice from those of you knowledgeable on how to get the best looking HDR out of an Epson 5040UB combined with a Panasonic DP-UB820. Forgive my lack of knowledge as I am new to the home theater world and am trying to learn, but at first glance I don’t see a difference in picture quality between a 5040 and a good 1080p tv. I know the Epson isn’t true 4K, but I thought the difference would be more noticeable.
> 
> I am currently using a Yescom 177" 16:9 Projection Screen with a 1.1 gain. My room is large with light colored walls, however I have blackout curtains in the room. I know these are all important factors when considering settings for a projector which is why I mention it. I am particularly interested in using Natural and Digital Cinema mode and was wondering based on what I’ve told you, if there are any ideal settings I should use to get the HDR to pop as much as possible on a projector screen?
> 
> I appreciate any advice or direction you all can give me. Thanks and I am excited to be a part of this forum!



Natural is regarded as best for 1080 BD.
I suggest cinema or digital cinema for UHD so you get almost the full color range.
For UHD, if you have latest firmware, leave the settings as is save for increasing light and iris to taste and I like Super white on .
Set the Panny 820 to projector, dynamic range to 8, white to 4 and black to -4.
I thought 8 would be too much although recommended but it works well.
For 1080 BD use Spears and Munsil or WOW set up disc to lock in the best settings which is relatively easy even for me.
And there you go. 
You should get pictures that make your jaw drop


----------



## sleepingatsea

jt7272 said:


> I use my Panasonic UB820 to play discs or rips that have HDR. The only catch is that the UB820 will not play files with lossless formats like Atmos. In this case I re-encode the audio to multi-channel FLAC and then mux.


What program are you using to do the audio re-encode? I'd like to do this also. Thanks!


----------



## noob00224

Brettmckinney said:


> What program are you using to do the audio re-encode? I'd like to do this also. Thanks!


MKVCleaver, MKVToolNix for MKV's. 
MakeMKV for extracting discs, or audio from discs.
They are all free.


----------



## Frichard

noob00224 said:


> It was already replied on the madvr topic:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-h...vr-player-support-thread-65.html#post59174052


I made this post before you quoted me in another thread. 
But thank you . I fix it. Not sure why it was doing that but it's fix now.

I just receive a new unit, again, from Epson. It's at work right now so I can test it yet. I sure hope this one is perfect.
Third time's a Charm they say !


----------



## sleepingatsea

I quickly tested out the 3D advice last night, and set the projector screen size to 300" - yep, depth was increased by a crazy amount! Took a little while for my eyes to adjust but looked damn good. I was watching scenes from Thor Ragnarok...looked incredible! It is commonly known that this movie does have quite a bit of crosstalk naturally? I think I've noticed this on certain shots on my both plasma tv and all settings on the projector - just checking that's source related.


----------



## inspector

Try that 3Der again. Watch the picture and go between 60 to 300. The only thing that changes are the sides, which get a tad smaller.


The depth doesn't change. I tried 2 different 3Ders just now and the depth stayed the same when I put it at my screen size (110) and increased it to 300. I first said you could see a difference, but I was wrong. The only thing that changes when at 300, with glasses off is there is more image separation (wider doubling).


----------



## joel dickman

*even the Epson 5040UB can run out of steam*



Daverey06 said:


> (snip)...I am currently using a Yescom 177" 16:9 Projection Screen with a 1.1 gain. My room is large with light colored walls, however I have blackout curtains in the room. I know these are all important factors when considering settings for a projector which is why I mention it. I am particularly interested in using Natural and Digital Cinema mode and was wondering based on what I’ve told you, if there are any ideal settings I should use to get the HDR to pop as much as possible on a projector screen?
> 
> I appreciate any advice or direction you all can give me. Thanks and I am excited to be a part of this forum!



Hi Dave,

The Epson 5040UB is exceptionally bright by home theater projector standards. But asking it to light up a 177" 16:9 screen with 1.1 gain may be asking too much. That screen isn't just very large... it is HUGE. If you try to use the Digital Cinema mode - significantly cutting the light output in order to get a wider color gamut - you are likely asking the projector to do the impossible. You are better off with the Natural mode, or perhaps one of the higher light output modes (bright cinema etc.) Experiment with the brighter picture modes first. If you still do not get enough lumens, consider shrinking your image size. Try to find the best trade off between picture size and picture quality. When you settle on a good compromise, build masking panels to cover the unused portion of your ginormous screen.

Happy viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## ryudoadema

joel dickman said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> The Epson 5040UB is exceptionally bright by home theater projector standards. But asking it to light up a 177" 16:9 screen with 1.1 gain may be asking too much. That screen isn't just very large... it is HUGE. If you try to use the Digital Cinema mode - significantly cutting the light output in order to get a wider color gamut - you are likely asking the projector to do the impossible. You are better off with the Natural mode, or perhaps one of the higher light output modes (bright cinema etc.) Experiment with the brighter picture modes first. If you still do not get enough lumens, consider shrinking your image size. Try to find the best trade off between picture size and picture quality. When you settle on a good compromise, build masking panels to cover the unused portion of your ginormous screen.
> 
> Happy viewing,
> Joel Dickman


Especially 177" and hdr (or 3d of course)


----------



## sleepingatsea

inspector said:


> Try that 3Der again. Watch the picture and go between 60 to 300. The only thing that changes are the sides, which get a tad smaller.
> 
> 
> The depth doesn't change. I tried 2 different 3Ders just now and the depth stayed the same when I put it at my screen size (110) and increased it to 300. I first said you could see a difference, but I was wrong. The only thing that changes when at 300, with glasses off is there is more image separation (wider doubling).


Interesting! I'll do some more testing tonight. I did think that the depth went much further back when I increased it to max but I wasn't really going in-between both settings to compare. But yeah, I noticed the sides moving inwards. Also going to do more testing on 'fine' vs 'fast'.


----------



## Keith Ferguson

john hunter said:


> Natural is regarded as best for 1080 BD.
> I suggest cinema or digital cinema for UHD so you get almost the full color range.
> For UHD, if you have latest firmware, leave the settings as is save for increasing light and iris to taste and I like Super white on .
> Set the Panny 820 to projector, dynamic range to 8, white to 4 and black to -4.
> I thought 8 would be too much although recommended but it works well.
> For 1080 BD use Spears and Munsil or WOW set up disc to lock in the best settings which is relatively easy even for me.
> And there you go.
> You should get pictures that make your jaw drop


what did the last firmware change? you don't change any gama settings?


----------



## john hunter

Keith Ferguson said:


> what did the last firmware change? you don't change any gama settings?



Recent firmware altered Epson's tone mapping and works well with Panasonic's.
Gamma in HDR doesn't work like we are used too in SDR.
Most suggest 0 in the Epson for HDR.
You have 10 memories so play with them.
I'm running a 9ft Scope screen with A lens so no light is wasted when watching Scope films.
Light is no problem but may be for you.
Your screen is pretty big(12-13 ft wide?) 
Go to Projector Reviews website and check their settings using using Auto Bright if light is a problem.
Also Adam has settings in the Display Calibration threat which you should try using Natural which is again brighter.
10 Memories so have fun and use them and compare.


----------



## na90

i had 1.12 firmware, should upgrade to 1.14?
i dont have any problem with 1.12


----------



## vuongjas

while at it can you direct me to where to find the firmware file?

I searched epson site and I can't find the update let alone any info on it...


----------



## vuongjas

of course with that I found it!


----------



## avtoronto

john hunter said:


> Recent firmware altered Epson's tone mapping and works well with Panasonic's.
> Gamma in HDR doesn't work like we are used too in SDR.
> Most suggest 0 in the Epson for HDR.
> You have 10 memories so play with them.
> I'm running a 9ft Scope screen with A lens so no light is wasted when watching Scope films.
> Light is no problem but may be for you.
> Your screen is pretty big(12-13 ft wide?)
> Go to Projector Reviews website and check their settings using using Auto Bright if light is a problem.
> Also Adam has settings in the Display Calibration threat which you should try using Natural which is again brighter.
> 10 Memories so have fun and use them and compare.


Where did this information about the latest firmware (14) altering the tone mapping come from? Per earlier posts, the firmware was supposed to improve power-related behaviour.


----------



## gene4ht

avtoronto said:


> Where did this information about the latest firmware (14) altering the tone mapping come from? Per earlier posts, the firmware was supposed to improve power-related behaviour.


To my knowledge, Epson does not publish firmware change logs. Any information related to firmware changes/upgrades seen in these threads have been purely anecdotal.


----------



## avtoronto

gene4ht said:


> To my knowledge, Epson does not publish firmware change logs. Any information related to firmware changes/upgrades seen in these threads have been purely anecdotal.


People on this thread contact Epson Support, ask about it, and post the responses here.


----------



## gene4ht

avtoronto said:


> People on this thread contact Epson Support, ask about it, and post the responses here.


Yes, I’ve seen those same postings. And over the past three years, I’ve also spoken to various support and management levels at Epson and have received differing responses to my inquiries. Until Epson publically publishes change logs like many other manufacturers, I view this type of information as anecdotal. Of course YMMV.


----------



## jbnpaul

Do we any evidence to suggest tone mapping changes was introduced in the latest firmware?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## john hunter

jbnpaul said:


> Do we any evidence to suggest tone mapping changes was introduced in the latest firmware?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not that I'm aware of.
My earlier comment was that you should be using the current firmware and that it works well with the Panny.


----------



## gene4ht

jbnpaul said:


> Do we any evidence to suggest tone mapping changes was introduced in the latest firmware?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





john hunter said:


> Not that I'm aware of.
> My earlier comment was that you should be using the current firmware and that it works well with the Panny.


For those interested, there is similar discussion taking place in the 5050 thread.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-177.html#post59192058

Bottom line, projectors are not yet ready for HDR prime time due to insufficient brightness/lumens. There have been many settings, software, and hardware workarounds that have yielded acceptable results for some but there is no one size fits all due to differences/variations in image size, screen capability, and primarily room lighting conditions. And then there’s the tone mapping element...static or dynamic capability? Among us enthusiasts, there are the constant tinkerers in search of the the holy HDR/tone mapping grail and those who prefer to set and forget. In any case, what appears to be a universally agreed/acceptable solution at this time for many is Panasonic’s UB 420 or 820 with its built in HDR optimizer and tone mapping slider. 

Note: Although the article above talks to JVC’s recent firmware upgrade tone mapping capabilities, I’m not aware that Epson currently has an equivalent feature.


----------



## wwallacemd

Hi all,

Just picked up the Epson 5040 and 2019 Nvidia shield after reading this thread, and already impressed with the quality of the image, but wanted to be sure I am maximizing the potential.

Had a couple Qs that I wasn't able to easily find in this thread that I was hoping could be answered:
1. Is the Nvidia Shield still the only way to get 4k Streaming (Netflix, etc...) from a streaming player? Or do the new roku/amazon devices do this?

2. What should the output settings be for the Nvidia Shield? When I select the following I see the output from the pj as:
Res always 3840 x 2160

Display: 4k 59.94 - 8 bit 4:2:0
Display: 4k 60 - 8 bit 4:2:0
Display: 4k 23.97 - 12 bit 4:2:2

Much appreciated!


----------



## hanamiyoko

wwallacemd said:


> Hi all,
> 
> 
> 
> Just picked up the Epson 5040 and 2019 Nvidia shield after reading this thread, and already impressed with the quality of the image, but wanted to be sure I am maximizing the potential.
> 
> 
> 
> Had a couple Qs that I wasn't able to easily find in this thread that I was hoping could be answered:
> 
> 1. Is the Nvidia Shield still the only way to get 4k Streaming (Netflix, etc...) from a streaming player? Or do the new roku/amazon devices do this?
> 
> 
> 
> 2. What should the output settings be for the Nvidia Shield? When I select the following I see the output from the pj as:
> 
> Res always 3840 x 2160
> 
> 
> 
> Display: 4k 59.94 - 8 bit 4:2:0
> 
> Display: 4k 60 - 8 bit 4:2:0
> 
> Display: 4k 23.97 - 12 bit 4:2:2
> 
> 
> 
> Much appreciated!


The 5040 can only do Display: 12 bit 4:2:2 HDR at 23.97 for 4K. That's how I set my Shield TV. Since I only use my Shield for playing movies and not games, 23.97 works for me.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


----------



## zebidou81

Hi All

Thanks for the great information you have been sharing in this Thread, i have been viewing 
the posts for a while and playing with the Epson and Panasonic UB420 HDR.

I have not tried many user settings but i am currently using these settings which have been calibrated 
and then they have returned to the projector and Recalibrated with more knowledge of HDR
The slides are at the bottom around 32 slides with all settings and gamma curves if anybody is interested:

https://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-pro-cinema-6040ub-projector-calibration-settings/

It says 6040ub but if you read through they own a 5040ub settings done on that.

If you are running or do try running these settings please let me know how they compare to Harpervision etc and i will change accordingly, one thing i have changed is the Contrast from there settings to 90.

I upgraded from an JVC RS25 and i am so impressed with the Epson.

One thing i would like to ask i was playing around with HDR and a few UHD discs over the bweekend, i was running 
Firmware 1.12 i managed to update to firmware 1.14 yesterday and i seem to notice a better brighter pic ?

Any facts on 1.14 update ? are the colors better or is it me ?


----------



## marcosphoto

Tony359 said:


> Hello all - I would like to update my 6040 to the latest firmware but on a French forum I read someone reporting a much noisier operations with the latest version. I haven't seen any reference of some extra noise here, can anybody confirm?
> 
> Also thank you all as I discovered here that the "fan at full speed" issue I have been experiencing every now and then is widespread. To be honest, I contacted Epson because of that and they did not mention that this is a known issue - yes, I read on this forum that Epson are not great at being clear with their customers, too bad.


To Tony and everyone with the loud fan on startup issue. I've mentioned in a past post that I've determined this is not a fault, but rather due to the bulb type. If you all will notice, the bulb normally starts and becomes bright in 40seconds. When the fan speed goes up, it takes almost 80 seconds - double the time. Due to bulb type, an arc must be struck to start the reaction. If in 25 or so seconds, if the arc does not successfully start the bulb up, the hardware goes into a retry loop that turns the fan on high and re-tries the arc hence the double time (as the times are all hard set in the programming). The fan goes on high as a protection to stop the bulb from overheating during the retries. This is not a fault, but a condition of the technologies being used and there is nothing wrong with the projectors. I know this from the automotive industry combined with chats I've had with other people.


----------



## marcosphoto

Having said all this, I would like to reopen the questions regarding the new f/w as the subject seems to have died off. I have 1.12 currently, what are peoples opinions - should I jump to 1.14?


----------



## Tony359

marcosphoto said:


> To Tony and everyone with the loud fan on startup issue. I've mentioned in a past post that I've determined this is not a fault, but rather due to the bulb type.


Thanks. I suspected that. But I thought that a failed ignition of the bulb was something to be concerned about. Glad that it’s not. 

In my case the bulb once failed to strike twice. At that point the projector closes the lens door and the LAMP led flashes. That’s why I assumed that a missed strike was not a good thing.


----------



## marcosphoto

Tony359 said:


> In my case the bulb once failed to strike twice. At that point the projector closes the lens door and the LAMP led flashes. That’s why I assumed that a missed strike was not a good thing.


I must admit, so far in about a year it's retried and locked up on 2 occasions. I would be a liar if I said it didn't concern me, however I have observed no worsening of the startup performance. My old Panasonic never did this once in 10 years, however the bulbs were rated for half the life. Perhaps Epson has done things in a way that is less harmful to the bulb in the long run allowing life to last longer. 

Who knows, since Epson really doesn't tell us anything at all! Their support is almost the worst I've seen out of a large name - only worse by Panasonics support these days. Both are adequate at best if you can convince them to let you communicate with a 2nd level tech - but it's like pulling teeth. I hate calling for support and hearing them quote out of the already poor manuals, then have to teach them how their own product works. This is why I will never buy another AVR other than Yamaha, their support team is absolutely brilliant - and it doesn't have to still be under warranty (no names - ahempanasonic).


----------



## Tony359

When I got in touch with Epson tech support they recommended reseating the bulb which I did. The false starts just stopped for a few months. Now they are back. To be honest I have got a new bulb from Epson as the light pulses greenish when in ECO mode, so maybe there is also something wrong with my current bulb.


----------



## gene4ht

marcosphoto said:


> Who knows, since Epson really doesn't tell us anything at all! Their support is almost the worst I've seen out of a large name - only worse by Panasonics support these days. Both are adequate at best if you can convince them to let you communicate with a 2nd level tech - but it's like pulling teeth. I hate calling for support and hearing them quote out of the already poor manuals, then have to teach them how their own product works.


I’ve posted numerous times in these threads relative to this subject...

Epson’s products are excellent when performing as expected...

However when products under perform, my experience with Epson’s (first level through advanced) support over the past three years mirrors yours exactly. Contrary to leading corporations in today’s marketplace, Epson’s culture and/or current leadership elects (a conscience choice) to remain silent and less than transparent relative to product performance issues. Hopefully there will be change in leadership forthcoming to establish a culture more consistent with today’s leading customer support organizations.


----------



## Juboy

marcosphoto said:


> I have 1.12 currently, what are peoples opinions - should I jump to 1.14?



I've not noticed any appreciable differences, but on the other hand it hasn't negatively affected anything as far as I can tell.


Although my mind tells me not to update firmware (it usually breaks more than it fixes in my experience) my heart always wins and I do apply the updates to most of my kit.


----------



## gene4ht

marcosphoto said:


> Having said all this, I would like to reopen the questions regarding the new f/w as the subject seems to have died off. I have 1.12 currently, what are peoples opinions - should I jump to 1.14?


It’s really a personal choice. Unless a firmware update definitely adds a universally desirable feature or corrects a major performance issue, I usually opt not to install firmware updates for the sake of updating. In particular unlike Epson, many major manufactures publish a firmware change log so the public/consumer is aware of what the update does. And having been in the technology industry, my experience has been that updates can often introduce as many issues as they purport to correct. It’s not unusual that updates are issued to correct previous updates. For the record, I’ve not installed any updates for my 5040 and have experienced no negative effects. Just my .02...as always YMMV.


----------



## Azekecse

I remember reading somewhere that the 1.14 f/w update provided a minor tweak, but I don't remember what it was. I updated to 1.14, but I didn't see any difference as previously stated. If 1.12 f/w is stable for you, I wouldn't install it. It can be nerve racking sometimes waiting until the f/w update is complete.

I updated the f/w on my JVC NX-5, for the DTM, and it was a 15-20 min process.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## sleepingatsea

Today is the day that I'm getting a proper screen! Getting a 100" Elite Saker tab tension installed to drop in front of my 65" plasma. Very keen to see how the PQ looks vs my $100 portable on the tripod!


----------



## gene4ht

Brettmckinney said:


> Today is the day that I'm getting a proper screen! Getting a 100" Elite Saker tab tension installed to drop in front of my 65" plasma. Very keen to see how the PQ looks vs my $100 portable on the tripod!


Looking forward to your impressions...


----------



## Daverey06

Hello everyone, I have a question in regards to getting the most out of an Epson 5040ub paired with a Panasonic DP-UB820.

I know most projectors aren’t great at HDR, but I was told this combo of projector and player are excellent together. That being said, how do I get the best looking HDR from this combo? 

I was told to switch the output to BT2020 SDR since the projector doesn’t do HDR well, and also to turn off Dolby Vision on the player. I can’t help but think by turning these features off that I am somehow not getting what I paid for in terms of utilizing the capabilities of the player. Are these settings what I should keep to get great color on my movies? I want to get the best HDR possible given the limitations of the projector. 

I appreciate any insight or advice you all may have. Thanks!


----------



## inspector

I think the best thing for you to do is do a "search" of these posts for Panasonic 820. Many will pop up and you can start your reading from there...just a suggestion.


Good luck!


----------



## marcosphoto

Daverey06 said:


> Hello everyone, I have a question in regards to getting the most out of an Epson 5040ub paired with a Panasonic DP-UB820.
> 
> I know most projectors aren’t great at HDR, but I was told this combo of projector and player are excellent together. That being said, how do I get the best looking HDR from this combo?
> 
> I was told to switch the output to BT2020 SDR since the projector doesn’t do HDR well, and also to turn off Dolby Vision on the player. I can’t help but think by turning these features off that I am somehow not getting what I paid for in terms of utilizing the capabilities of the player. Are these settings what I should keep to get great color on my movies? I want to get the best HDR possible given the limitations of the projector.
> 
> I appreciate any insight or advice you all may have. Thanks!


Read back 6 months or so, tons of information on this combination and settings. To sum up what majority of people have said - forget the HDR and go SDR2020. There is extensive repeated information regarding exact suggested setup from people like Dreamliner and such. HDR ends up dark no matter what you try, SDR2020 is the way to go IMO. You are sort of giving up what you paid for but not really. The projectors are not expensive in the grand scheme of things but more importantly the 4Kultra disks you use will contain information even in SDR2020 that will improve the picture so not all is lost on the player. 

I don't believe the projector is dolby vision compatible so it doesn't make a difference if you turn it off or not on the player. 

The biggest problem with the projector IMO is that it won't accept 18mbps bandwidth which lowers the compression quality. I personally feel I should have held out for the 5050 and paid more but all-in-all my wife and I have logged 300+ hours on the 5040 so far and enjoying it just fine.


----------



## monkaquinas

Daverey06 said:


> Hello everyone, I have a question in regards to getting the most out of an Epson 5040ub paired with a Panasonic DP-UB820.
> 
> I know most projectors aren’t great at HDR, but I was told this combo of projector and player are excellent together. That being said, how do I get the best looking HDR from this combo?
> 
> I was told to switch the output to BT2020 SDR since the projector doesn’t do HDR well, and also to turn off Dolby Vision on the player. I can’t help but think by turning these features off that I am somehow not getting what I paid for in terms of utilizing the capabilities of the player. Are these settings what I should keep to get great color on my movies? I want to get the best HDR possible given the limitations of the projector.
> 
> I appreciate any insight or advice you all may have. Thanks!


From a UB820 thread post-
Panasonic UB420 / UB820 & SDR2020 (aka, the projector solution)
The Panasonic UB420 & UB820 are the answer for physical 4K media. With the built-in SDR2020 Tone Mapping, 4K discs behave exactly like HD discs and you never have to deal with HDR shenanigans or titles looking 'dark'. The UB420/UB820 will make you think you bought a new projector. Configured with the settings below, your projector will not see a ‘HDR’ signal so it will not probably not switch to whatever Gamma curve your projector uses. The UB820 is still interpreting the HDR data off the disc and sending a ‘full range’ signal to the projector so you are not leaving any color or brightness 'on the table'. You get beautiful high resolution and wide color gamut images without the hassle.

Panasonic UB420 / UB820 Optimal Settings for Projectors (SDR2020):
On the UB420 / UB820:
Settings>HDMI>Advanced>HDR/Color Gamut Output>SDR/BT.2020
Settings>HDMI>Advanced>HDR/Color Gamut Output>HDR TV Type>Basic Luminance LCD and Projector
Settings>Audio>Settings for High Clarity Sound>Front Panel Display>Off (UB820 preference)

On the UB420 / UB820 During 4K Disc Playback:
Options (remote button)>Video Settings>Optimum HDR Adjustment>HDR Optimizer>On (preference)
Options (remote button)>Video Settings>Optimum HDR Adjustment>Dynamic Range Conversion Adjustment>+4 to +8 (preference)

Regarding HDR Optimizer, you lose some brightness but gain detail in explosions and similar. I started with this off but now have it on. Dynamic Range Conversion Adjustment will depend a lot on your screen size, bigger screens will want more. I have left the other settings at defaults (so far).

On the Projector (JVC specific settings here):
Color Profile>BT.2020Gamma>2.4 (or 2 for the 5040)


----------



## sleepingatsea

gene4ht said:


> Looking forward to your impressions...


The install all went well! Thankfully the tech that did the install was very detailed orientated so talked through everything and made sure I was happy with the decisions being made. Being it's not a dedicated room, I found that 100" was the biggest I could get that would fit without covering my front speakers. Seating is about 3-4m away. 
Ended with a nice flush ceiling mount with the screen dropping right in front of the TV and lands mm away from the top of my speakers - perfect!

Thankfully the screen is all good too - completely flat, no wrinkles and the tab tension doing it's thang - phew!

I only got to watch Netflix last night but will test out some 4k discs and 3D tonight to give it a real test. So far whites are more cleaner and sharpness seems more consistent too.

The only thing that I need to get used to is that with my portable screen, it was a bit closer to the seating position and also positioned lower to the eyes. Due to the constraints of the new screen, it can't drop any lower so am now looking slightly up to it. 

Both of these things make the screen appear smaller to me and not as immersive. Might need to bring couch up a bit closer perhaps! Think I was at 3m on the portable and now about 3.6m or so.


----------



## jdfilm

Brettmckinney said:


> Today is the day that I'm getting a proper screen! Getting a 100" Elite Saker tab tension installed to drop in front of my 65" plasma. Very keen to see how the PQ looks vs my $100 portable on the tripod!


I have a similar set-up. My Elite tab tension 103" comes down in front of my 55". It's very nice that the screen has IR and works with my Harmony Elite. I press 'Project Movie', and the receiver's HDMI output switches over the the projector, the tv turns off, projector turns on and the screen comes down. It's awesome.


----------



## sleepingatsea

jdfilm said:


> I have a similar set-up. My Elite tab tension 103" comes down in front of my 55". It's very nice that the screen has IR and works with my Harmony Elite. I press 'Project Movie', and the receiver's HDMI output switches over the the projector, the tv turns off, projector turns on and the screen comes down. It's awesome.


Nice! I managed to add the Elite screen device in the harmony hub and tested up/down but haven't had a chance to try setup the full automation. Hope I can figure it out haha.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Brettmckinney said:


> The install all went well! Thankfully the tech that did the install was very detailed orientated so talked through everything and made sure I was happy with the decisions being made. Being it's not a dedicated room, I found that 100" was the biggest I could get that would fit without covering my front speakers. Seating is about 3-4m away.
> Ended with a nice flush ceiling mount with the screen dropping right in front of the TV and lands mm away from the top of my speakers - perfect!
> 
> Thankfully the screen is all good too - completely flat, no wrinkles and the tab tension doing it's thang - phew!
> 
> I only got to watch Netflix last night but will test out some 4k discs and 3D tonight to give it a real test. So far whites are more cleaner and sharpness seems more consistent too.
> 
> *The only thing that I need to get used to is that with my portable screen, it was a bit closer to the seating position and also positioned lower to the eyes. Due to the constraints of the new screen, it can't drop any lower so am now looking slightly up to it.
> 
> Both of these things make the screen appear smaller to me and not as immersive.* Might need to bring couch up a bit closer perhaps! Think I was at 3m on the portable and now about 3.6m or so.


Glad that your new screen provides the improvements you were looking for...enjoy! Unfortunately, further improvements (larger screen allowing for a lower image and greater immersion) provided by an AT screen comes at a far greater cost.

Note: Moving your couch closer would help with immersion...or optionally, you could move the screen forward.


----------



## sleepingatsea

One thing that's bothering me to be honest is black level. I know it can be hard to judge from screenshots and youtube videos but Im finding my projector isn't getting very inky at all with black bars looking really grey which is distracting me. 



Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Brettmckinney said:


> One thing that's bothering me to be honest is black level. I know it can be hard to judge from screenshots and youtube videos but Im finding my projector isn't getting very inky at all with black bars looking really grey which is distracting me.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Other than a particular projector’s natural black level performance, the amount of ambient room light and the color of walls, ceiling, and floor all contribute to black level performance. Even the black levels touted by JVC projectors are only achieved in a bat cave.


----------



## inspector

HT wall color is very important. When I had my HT built, they painted 1/2 the side walls beige. I had to repaint them dark grey and now movie watching is perfect.


----------



## JustAnEE

I'm at 25 or 26 months ownership, no issues previously. Projector now doesn't turn on (no flashing light or anything), either with remote or with the physical power button on the projector. I've also unplugged it for 12+hours and then plugged it back in to try again, and nothing. 
I saw the 5040ub UK poll for power supply issues, but I didn't see any detail.

Is there any troubleshooting I'm missing? 
There's no reset button or such, right?


----------



## gene4ht

Daverey06 said:


> Hello everyone, I have a question in regards to getting the most out of an Epson 5040ub paired with a Panasonic DP-UB820.
> 
> I know most projectors aren’t great at HDR, but I was told this combo of projector and player are excellent together. That being said, how do I get the best looking HDR from this combo?
> 
> I was told to switch the output to BT2020 SDR since the projector doesn’t do HDR well, and also to turn off Dolby Vision on the player. I can’t help but think by turning these features off that I am somehow not getting what I paid for in terms of utilizing the capabilities of the player. Are these settings what I should keep to get great color on my movies? I want to get the best HDR possible given the limitations of the projector.
> 
> I appreciate any insight or advice you all may have. Thanks!





inspector said:


> I think the best thing for you to do is do a "search" of these posts for Panasonic 820. Many will pop up and you can start your reading from there...just a suggestion.
> 
> 
> Good luck!


I’m in agreement with @inspector. In fact, you may also want to also search for the UB420 as their performances are identical except that the 420 lacks Dolby Vision capability...which is a moot point as the 5040 does not support DV.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/202-...l-black-friday-cyber-monday.html#post59123252


----------



## sleepingatsea

inspector said:


> HT wall color is very important. When I had my HT built, they painted 1/2 the side walls beige. I had to repaint them dark grey and now movie watching is perfect.


Looks like that could be next on the 'to do' list


----------



## aeneas01

jbnpaul said:


> But the bigger question here is ... even with these improvements/tweaks to HDR, does it look better than SDR? I have concluded, for streaming via Apple TV 4k, just forcing all content to SDR is simply better than HDR. For local content, mad-vr tone map to SDR ( which allows me to set BT 2020) is a no-context winner.
> 
> I also believe my eyes prefer a brighter image. And this makes my conclusions above highly subjective. And even with mad-vr tone mapping i end up liking a nits value of 75.


sounds like we've made similar journeys... i own the 6050ub + nuc (igpu) and screwed around with windows 10 hdr for the first few weeks, toggling hdr back and forth based on content, not only was it a major pain in the arse but i was underwhelmed by the hdr image (4k hdr rips)... during this process i also used a radiance pro in the chain (love lumagen products, just first rate), tried an apple tv 4k, and a shield, but wasn't very happy with any of the solutions, especially the annoying re-syncing delays.

on a whim i tried my windows 10 nuc set to sdr (hdr toggled off) + madvr tone mapping and quickly fell in love, wow, just wow...i even tried setting my nuc to output 1080p (the native res of the 6050ub) and had madvr downscale my 4k rips, again i loved the results... moreover, by using 1080p output my nuc's igpu is able to easily handle madvr settings, rendering 1080p (even downscaling 4k to 1080p) is a lot less taxing than processing a 4k image it seems.

at the moment my current prob is trying to figure out which madvr 113 tone mapping settings look best, it's a problem because they all look so damn good, trying to settle on one is very tough! like you, i'm a big fan of bright images, especially when it comes to hdr, and have been playing with lower nit settings in the 50-75 range as well, and the early results are fantastic.

speaking of which, playing around with lower madvr nit settings brightened blacks to levels that i never really tried or experienced before with this projector, levels that in the past i would have considered not nearly dark enough, not inky enough - thing is, the brightened blacks revealed a ton of details in my rips that i never knew were there, it's been stunning actually... for example the opening space scene in passengers is a completely different animal now, there's so much more depth, the subtle colors of the galaxies, the stars, so much of this was shrouded in a much darker picture in the past, same goes for the exterior of the spaceship in passengers, so much of that detail was hidden in the past, and jurassic park fallen kingdom's opening scene, with the t-rex approaching the unsuspecting tech guy, and the scene in black panther, near the beginning, when the kids watch the spaceship leave oakland, before it was mostly faint lights, now you can actually see the ship, it goes on and on...

anyway, still playing around with things, but i'm really liking the direction that madvr 113 and sdr is taking me... in the end i simply had to come to terms with the fact that a 4k hdr projector is not the equivalent of a big 4k hdr panel, they are just completely different animals that produce completely different hdr images, once i got past that i've been able to focus on just trying to get the best picture the pj has to offer, and it's a picture that can be stunning.


----------



## cky2354

aeneas01 said:


> sounds like we've made similar journeys... i own the 6050ub + nuc (igpu) and screwed around with windows 10 hdr for the first few weeks, toggling hdr back and forth based on content, not only was it a major pain in the arse but i was underwhelmed by the hdr image (4k hdr rips)... during this process i also used a radiance pro in the chain (love lumagen products, just first rate), tried an apple tv 4k, and a shield, but wasn't very happy with any of the solutions, especially the annoying re-syncing delays.
> 
> on a whim i tried my windows 10 nuc set to sdr (hdr toggled off) + madvr tone mapping and quickly fell in love, wow, just wow...i even tried setting my nuc to output 1080p (the native res of the 6050ub) and had madvr downscale my 4k rips, again i loved the results... moreover, by using 1080p output my nuc's igpu is able to easily handle madvr settings, rendering 1080p (even downscaling 4k to 1080p) is a lot less taxing than processing a 4k image it seems.
> 
> at the moment my current prob is trying to figure out which madvr 113 tone mapping settings look best, it's a problem because they all look so damn good, trying to settle on one is very tough! like you, i'm a big fan of bright images, especially when it comes to hdr, and have been playing with lower nit settings in the 50-75 range as well, and the early results are fantastic.
> 
> speaking of which, playing around with lower madvr nit settings brightened blacks to levels that i never really tried or experienced before with this projector, levels that in the past i would have considered not nearly dark enough, not inky enough - thing is, the brightened blacks revealed a ton of details in my rips that i never knew were there, it's been stunning actually... for example the opening space scene in passengers is a completely different animal now, there's so much more depth, the subtle colors of the galaxies, the stars, so much of this was shrouded in a much darker picture in the past, same goes for the exterior of the spaceship in passengers, so much of that detail was hidden in the past, and jurassic park fallen kingdom's opening scene, with the t-rex approaching the unsuspecting tech guy, and the scene in black panther, near the beginning, when the kids watch the spaceship leave oakland, before it was mostly faint lights, now you can actually see the ship, it goes on and on...
> 
> anyway, still playing around with things, but i'm really liking the direction that madvr 113 and sdr is taking me... in the end i simply had to come to terms with the fact that a 4k hdr projector is not the equivalent of a big 4k hdr panel, they are just completely different animals that produce completely different hdr images, once i got past that i've been able to focus on just trying to get the best picture the pj has to offer, and it's a picture that can be stunning.


I see that you have a Epson 6050ub... and I just recently purchased the 5050ub and you are giving me hope with HDR with this thing. Do you think I would get the same or I should say similar results with the Panasonic UB420 or would I have to use madvr and HTPC to get the results you got? I bought this instead of the Epson 5040ub thinking that it would have better HDR capabilities but I find that the SDR has better picture for me. So if I am only using this for mainly watching SDR (either using madvr or Panasonic UB420 to convert to SDR) is the 5050ub worth it than the 5040ub? Oh.. I don't game at 4K HDR 60Hz so... trying to figure out if 5050ub is worth it over the 5040ub.


----------



## inspector

Let's see if I can explain myself to get a little bit of help. I have a 6040 and it's connected with a directional HDMI cable from the Epson HDMI 2.2 port to my Sammy k8500 HDMI Video/Audio port. The Audio port is connected to my Denon 4300.


If I want to buy a Panny 420 for UHD, how would I connect it? Do I need a splitter? I got to thinking about it and for less than $300 I could get pretty good UHD.


----------



## sleepingatsea

inspector said:


> Let's see if I can explain myself to get a little bit of help. I have a 6040 and it's connected with a directional HDMI cable from the Epson HDMI 2.2 port to my Sammy k8500 HDMI Video/Audio port. The Audio port is connected to my Denon 4300.
> 
> 
> If I want to buy a Panny 420 for UHD, how would I connect it? Do I need a splitter? I got to thinking about it and for less than $300 I could get pretty good UHD.


Not sure if you have another TV in the mix, but if so I would be connecting your projector to HDMI output 1 on the Denon 4300, and then use HDMI output 2 for your other set. You then have your 4k player direct into the Denon. Then you just need to switch between HDMI output in the settings depending on what you are watching.

This is what I'm currently doing and works great.


----------



## inspector

Thanks for the suggestion Brett but I only have the Epson in my HT.


----------



## sleepingatsea

inspector said:


> Thanks for the suggestion Brett but I only have the Epson in my HT.


Oh well that's even easier then! If you get the Panny, just run HDMI to your Denon for audio/video and then from the Denon out to your projector.
The Panny players are great disc players and will make UHD sing for you. 
Not great at streaming though. 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

JustAnEE said:


> I'm at 25 or 26 months ownership, no issues previously. Projector now doesn't turn on (no flashing light or anything), either with remote or with the physical power button on the projector. I've also unplugged it for 12+hours and then plugged it back in to try again, and nothing.
> I saw the 5040ub UK poll for power supply issues, but I didn't see any detail.
> 
> Is there any troubleshooting I'm missing?
> There's no reset button or such, right?



Since nobody had addressed this yet, the short answer is no. You are about to get on the Epson Wheel of Refurbs ride, in which you will get units sent to you that were returned, plugged in, turned on, and shipped back out. You will get one or more of the following: a scratched lens, dust blobs, stuck focus ring, scratched outer case, missing rubber feet, or dead HDMI port(s). 



Good luck.


----------



## Dominator81

Wondering if anyone knows how to take off the front panel (5040)? I have a yellow vertical line and want to check the connectors, but it feels like it's going to break when I try to remove it; I think I need to remove the front panel before I can get to the top. Not sure if there's a trick to it or maybe I'm just being too careful but paid a pretty penny for it and don't want to crack anything!
... I've had it for 3yrs so apparently I'm past the warranty.


----------



## JustAnEE

roland6465 said:


> Since nobody had addressed this yet, the short answer is no. You are about to get on the Epson Wheel of Refurbs ride, in which you will get units sent to you that were returned, plugged in, turned on, and shipped back out. You will get one or more of the following: a scratched lens, dust blobs, stuck focus ring, scratched outer case, missing rubber feet, or dead HDMI port(s).
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck.


That's assuming they will still do a warranty coverage as it's past 24 months (which I actually think they will...). Would suck if replacement has issues -- the 5040 I have was "perfect" (panel alignment, no dust blobs, etc) compared to the other 4 epson projectors I've progressed through.

Thanks, will try calling them tonight. 

In retrospect, I should have monitored this forum more closely and seen the power supply issue. Maybe I could have put a switch in line with the power to cut actual power when off, though of course that may not have helped. I guess at least I got to ~7k hours or so which is much better than some seem to have... 

Edit: Called Epson, they didn't even bring up that it was past 24 months. Refurb unit being sent out ($1379 hold on CC). Guess I'm in for replacement roulette. Plus day(s) off work to try to catch the delivery for signature.


----------



## gene4ht

inspector said:


> Let's see if I can explain myself to get a little bit of help. I have a 6040 and it's connected with a directional HDMI cable from the Epson HDMI 2.2 port to my Sammy k8500 HDMI Video/Audio port. The Audio port is connected to my Denon 4300.
> 
> 
> *If I want to buy a Panny 420 for UHD*, how would I connect it? Do I need a splitter? I got to thinking about it and for less than $300 I could get pretty good UHD.





Brettmckinney said:


> Oh well that's even easier then! *If you get the Panny, just run HDMI to your Denon for audio/video and then from the Denon out to your projector.*
> The Panny players are great disc players and will make UHD sing for you.
> Not great at streaming though.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


If interested in the Panasonic UB420...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/202-...l-black-friday-cyber-monday.html#post59226212


----------



## gene4ht

@Azekecse 

I referenced your post from 2017...third link two post up...this is all old news for many of us!


----------



## Archaea

jaado said:


> I bought a refurbished 5040 and wondering what the best mount for below $100 price? I tried to look up and was getting different results, thought a question would be easy to get answer.
> 
> 
> Here is the one that I looked on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/QualGear-QG-...ncoding=UTF8&refRID=6PDSNSAB2AH157XFPJCM&th=1





DavidinGA said:


> I grabbed a flush mount no-name mount off Amazon a few years back for like $30 and it's rock solid and has plenty of adjustments. I really have a very hard time seeing the need to spend $100 plus; it's just a waste of money imo. People tend to go on and on about chief mounts, but at the end of the day if your image is squared up perfectly and the mount is secure to the ceiling then who cares if it's a "chief" or some dirt cheap Chinese no-name mount...


here I did your homework for you.

One of you two pick this up.
Chief CHF2500 for $20 on ebay. This model is older, but still works with the 5040UB. I've read multiple times it was sometimes packaged with the 6040UB, which has the same mounting bolt pattern as your 5040UB.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF2...441833&hash=item3d9d5cfc8c:g:igcAAOSwBm9eRW4U

@jaado you can't do better for the money period.
@DavidinGA, time you upgrade, and see for yourself the quality difference.


Reference:
Post 17393 and immediately following has some discussion over the CHF2500 vs. CHF4500.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-580.html#post58051522


PS if the included threaded drop down pipe isn't long enough, you can go into any home depot or lowes and buy a steel nipple pipe typically used for hot water heaters in various lengths, and spray paint it black - bring your base plate into home depot and make sure the threads match (they are standard).
That's what I did, and you'd NEVER know it by looking at it. I needed a longer drop than the pipe that came with my kit. Nipple pipe idea compliments to @MississippiMan


----------



## jaado

Archaea said:


> here I did your homework for you.
> 
> One of you two pick this up.
> Chief CHF2500 for $20 on ebay. This model is older, but still works with the 5040UB. I've read multiple times it was sometimes packaged with the 6040UB, which has the same mounting bolt pattern as your 5040UB.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF2...441833&hash=item3d9d5cfc8c:g:igcAAOSwBm9eRW4U
> 
> @*jaado* you can't do better for the money period.
> @*DavidinGA* , time you upgrade, and see for yourself the quality difference.
> 
> 
> Reference:
> Post 17393 and immediately following has some discussion over the CHF2500 vs. CHF4500.
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-580.html#post58051522
> 
> 
> PS if the included threaded drop down pipe isn't long enough, you can go into any home depot or lowes and buy a steel nipple pipe typically used for hot water heaters in various lengths, and spray paint it black - bring your base plate into home depot and make sure the threads match (they are standard).
> That's what I did, and you'd NEVER know it by looking at it. I needed a longer drop than the pipe that came with my kit. Nipple pipe idea compliments to @*MississippiMan*





Thank you Archaea and others for the reply. Will bid for this


----------



## MJ DOOM

Any previous DLP owners that switched over to the 5040UB feel that motion during fast action is lacking?


----------



## JustAnEE

Received the replacement/refurb. 
Haven't thoroughly tested (2nd HDMI, etc). Observations so far: Has a (small) blue pen mark on the front of the case. Only one really small minor dust blob (most people couldn't even see it, I can barely see it with looking for it with full black and iris). 

Total Operation Time shows as 0 hours in the service menu, along with only 1 prior ON/OFF count. I am assuming they reset this counter now as part of their refurb process. 

Unfortunately, panel alignment was not perfect like my prior . Off by a good full pixel up/to the side on both R and B on one side of the screen (not on other). Sad about some sharpness loss through using the alignment feature due to it effectively having less pixels with computation... 

Otherwise, it seems to look OK so far .


----------



## Superman2

I’ve used this mount for 10 years, currently holding my 4010. Well made and works great. 

OmniMount 3N1-PJT B Universal Projector Mount 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BradP

ryudoadema said:


> Sorry, I can't help with your glasses problem. I ordered a few different types off Amazon, both rechargeable and replaceable but haven't gotten to use them yet. I was wondering how you like the 3d on the 5040ub compared to the 1070? I had a 1070, then a 3050 and they were both great for 3d but just a little dim. I have now a 5040ub as well, just haven't gotten around to hooking it up.



I have only watched a bit with it given that I'm having trouble with the glasses search (maybe just end up going with replaceable battery models instead, since these rechargeable cells seem delicate when neglected), though it has been just as good as the Benq's was. I think a lot of it is in the calibration you do, crosstalk maybe SLIGHTLY worse on this 3LCD model vs the DLP though I think the Epson picture quality has surpassed my Benq making it a worthy update until true 4K comes down in price years down the road.


----------



## marcosphoto

Sooooooo, I'm going to test all your knowledge. Because I can't understand it and apparently Epson has no clue or doesn't care (I'm guessing the latter). I had a old 106" 16:9 screen and panasonic projector, and the image would fit all 4 dimensions of the white portion absolutely perfect down to the last MM. Later, I got the Epson and found that once the picture was zoomed to fit the sides perfectly, there was several inches on the top and bottom where it would not fill the white portion. (NO, I AM NOT talking about CINEMASCOPE 2.35 HERE). So I'm thinking, that's weird, either the panasonic and my old screen were out-of-whack by the exact same amount with regards to ratio or the Epson is. 

Now I got a new Elunevision 125", zoom out the lens to fit the width and sure enough the image will not fill the top and bottom of the screen still - so it could not be the screens that have been built incorrectly and must be the epson! It is annoying me more now with the new screen because as the image size enlarged - so did the white showing on the top and bottom to the point where I have about 5" each top and bottom showing of the white part of the 16x9 screen. Of course, if I zoom out a little more to fill in the top and bottom - then the sides go over the black matting. 

If I was sure the Epson was displaying 16x9 picture almost as narrow as 2.35 I would have not got a 16x9 screen! Anyone have a clue as to what is happening here?


----------



## pete ramberg

marcosphoto said:


> Sooooooo, I'm going to test all your knowledge. Because I can't understand it and apparently Epson has no clue or doesn't care (I'm guessing the latter). I had a old 106" 16:9 screen and panasonic projector, and the image would fit all 4 dimensions of the white portion absolutely perfect down to the last MM. Later, I got the Epson and found that once the picture was zoomed to fit the sides perfectly, there was several inches on the top and bottom where it would not fill the white portion. (NO, I AM NOT talking about CINEMASCOPE 2.35 HERE). So I'm thinking, that's weird, either the panasonic and my old screen were out-of-whack by the exact same amount with regards to ratio or the Epson is.
> 
> Now I got a new Elunevision 125", zoom out the lens to fit the width and sure enough the image will not fill the top and bottom of the screen still - so it could not be the screens that have been built incorrectly and must be the epson! It is annoying me more now with the new screen because as the image size enlarged - so did the white showing on the top and bottom to the point where I have about 5" each top and bottom showing of the white part of the 16x9 screen. Of course, if I zoom out a little more to fill in the top and bottom - then the sides go over the black matting.
> 
> If I was sure the Epson was displaying 16x9 picture almost as narrow as 2.35 I would have not got a 16x9 screen! Anyone have a clue as to what is happening here?


It sounds like the 'blanking' option is being used for the top and bottom of the image. Have you checked that?


----------



## marcosphoto

pete ramberg said:


> It sounds like the 'blanking' option is being used for the top and bottom of the image. Have you checked that?


I am not sure about what the blanking feature is intended to do or how it works. After your mention I checked around and saw a little information but I'm not convinced it applies to me. None-the-less, if it's on it was like that from default because I have not touched that setting. I will look into that when I get home tonight, thanks for the idea.


----------



## pete ramberg

marcosphoto said:


> I am not sure about what the blanking feature is intended to do or how it works. After your mention I checked around and saw a little information but I'm not convinced it applies to me. None-the-less, if it's on it was like that from default because I have not touched that setting. I will look into that when I get home tonight, thanks for the idea.


Go to "Settings>Blanking" and make sure that "top" and Bottom" are set to zero.

Blanking simply blocks out a portion of each edge of the LCD chip, keeping extraneous light from reaching the screen. For example, if you use a 16:9 LCD chip to display a 2.35:1 panoramic image, the top and bottom of the chip is not used, but might have some extraneous light leaking out. The blanking feature basically blocks that light or image from reaching the screen - makes the dark grey bars more black!


----------



## JustAnEE

pete ramberg said:


> Go to "Settings>
> 
> Blanking simply blocks out a portion of each edge of the LCD chip, keeping extraneous light from reaching the screen. For example, if you use a 16:9 LCD chip to display a 2.35:1 panoramic image, the top and bottom of the chip is not used, but might have some extraneous light leaking out. The blanking feature basically blocks that light or image from reaching the screen - makes the dark grey bars more black!


I could be misunderstanding your explanation, but I think this explanation is incorrect. 
Blanking just sets those pixels to black -- They'll still get the same amount of light through the LCD panel as if the image was black. There is no physical barrier moved in front of the LCD panel to block that extraneous light going through the "black" pixels. If a different aspect ratio image is shown, there is generally no need for or benefit from using blanking (assuming it already has black "bars" or a color to match the content). 

There are at least two reasons for blanking options (there could be others as well). Source video could have garbage colors/errors along one or more edges (mostly gone with HDTV stations, but I've seen on some low-budget local stations when they play old analog-converted content and don't bother to overscan to correct their source). In this case one would want to block that portion of the image. 
On the other hand, specifically in respect to projectors, one may have a full image in the source but want to display on a smaller or different aspect ratio rectangular screen or wall. In this case one may want to block different amounts from multiple sides so that the image is not being also projected on another wall or outside of the display area. 

Here's an article on why there used to be a wider need for overscan, with a more elegant description of what I was referring to as "garbage" along the edge on some TV stations: 
"Overscan also serves another, lesser-known purpose. Since the outside area isn’t going to be viewed anyway (in most cases), it’s used to house important data for analog-to-digital converters. Analog has no way to attach additional information to the picture like digital does (metadata), so this data is tucked neatly into things like blinking pixels or scan lines—think of it as Morse code for TVs. While the majority of everything is completely digital from end-to-end now, there are still some analog-to-digital conversions going on. That’s the problem with old technology that was so widely adopted and use for so long: it’s almost impossible to get rid of it completely."


----------



## BiggNewt

Just picked up a Panny UB420 to go with my 5040. Is there a way to get 4K HDR through the built in Netflix app?

Been messing with the settings and can't get it to come out of 1080p, 12 bit HDR

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

BiggNewt said:


> Just picked up a Panny UB420 to go with my 5040. Is there a way to get 4K HDR through the built in Netflix app?
> 
> Been messing with the settings and can't get it to come out of 1080p, 12 bit HDR
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


It won't do 4k HDR to the Epson as it only outputs 60hz but I swear at one stage I had it doing 4k SDR however for the life of me I can't get it to do it again. Only 1080p HDR. 
Amazon Prime will do it though. 
Also, I have terrible lip sync issues through Netflix that I can't resolve. 
Unreal for discs, but I'm using PS4 pro for streaming.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## BiggNewt

Brettmckinney said:


> It won't do 4k HDR to the Epson as it only outputs 60hz but I swear at one stage I had it doing 4k SDR however for the life of me I can't get it to do it again. Only 1080p HDR.
> Amazon Prime will do it though.
> Also, I have terrible lip sync issues through Netflix that I can't resolve.
> Unreal for discs, but I'm using PS4 pro for streaming.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Messing around with it some more I got 4K SDR by changing it from Auto to 4K in resolution. It forces the resolution while dropping the HDR.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

BiggNewt said:


> Messing around with it some more I got 4K SDR by changing it from Auto to 4K in resolution. It forces the resolution while dropping the HDR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Hmm I'd think I would of tried that but I'll give it another go! Thanks


----------



## marcosphoto

pete ramberg said:


> It sounds like the 'blanking' option is being used for the top and bottom of the image. Have you checked that?



So no, blanking is all 0, and overscan is blanked out so I cannot even check it (anyone know under what conditions overscan is available?). I had also asked Epson online support again about this, they replied saying it sounds like the unit is defective. Right out of the box? Is this possible? I would rather have had Epson tell me again that it was normal, as with all the replacement roulette that is occurring I really don't want to take this route. The picture looks great and everything seems to be working well otherwise, what do you all think - just keep it and avoid gambling?


----------



## sleepingatsea

How much content have you checked this on? I just put something on that was 16x9 full screen and I had 2-3" gaps at the top and bottom. I played a few movies that looked the same and then I put The Lion King on and it filled the screen right to the edges. So just checking perhaps that the content you have was filmed slightly less than fullscreen? 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## marcosphoto

Brettmckinney said:


> How much content have you checked this on? I just put something on that was 16x9 full screen and I had 2-3" gaps at the top and bottom. I played a few movies that looked the same and then I put The Lion King on and it filled the screen right to the edges. So just checking perhaps that the content you have was filmed slightly less than fullscreen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk



Good question, but the answer is every and all 16:9 content. Perhaps in some cases, it is more or less severe like in your case - but it's very hard to tell when not one souce I have watched will touch the top or bottom. You sort of loose the reference point when that happens and you can't tell if the gap is changing slightly when nothing has ever filled top to bottom.


----------



## Dominic Chan

marcosphoto said:


> Good question, but the answer is every and all 16:9 content. Perhaps in some cases, it is more or less severe like in your case - but it's very hard to tell when not one souce I have watched will touch the top or bottom. You sort of loose the reference point when that happens and you can't tell if the gap is changing slightly when nothing has ever filled top to bottom.


Are you using any keystone adjustments to make the image “square”? They can also change the aspect ratio, although usually reducing the width instead of the height.


----------



## marcosphoto

Dominic Chan said:


> Are you using any keystone adjustments to make the image “square”? They can also change the aspect ratio, although usually reducing the width instead of the height.



I am using keystone yes, but last night in doing more work setting up the new screen I was playing a lot with it and it does not affect the height as you suspected - mainly width.
I am concerned if Epson is correct that the unit requires replacement. I really don't want to enter into the roulette unless it's absolutely messed up.


----------



## Dominic Chan

marcosphoto said:


> I am using keystone yes, but last night in doing more work setting up the new screen I was playing a lot with it and it does not affect the height as you suspected - mainly width.
> I am concerned if Epson is correct that the unit requires replacement. I really don't want to enter into the roulette unless it's absolutely messed up.


In general it's best not to use keystone. With the lens shift one should be able to do so.

I seriously doubt that a defective projector can change the aspect ratio. If you projector a circle or square, do you get the same height and width?


----------



## blazin912

Doing some room planning, I have an ideal "nook" to place this projector that is off center. Screen size 120" diag at minimum (still TBD) Placement would be about 24-30" off center. I understand the PJ has up to 47% Horizontal shift but this is without any vertical.

The PJ will be ~8-10" above the screen. 

I believe this means I need:

23-29% Horizontal shift
17% Vertical shift

I'm sure this is within the ellipse, but can anyone confirm? Also I've seen mixed reviews on shift causing degradation, I'm no purist, but I just want to make sure this "minimal" shift for this projector is going to be A-ok.

This placement will lead to very high WAF


----------



## Dominic Chan

blazin912 said:


> The PJ will be ~8-10" above the screen.
> 
> I believe this means I need:
> 
> 23-29% Horizontal shift
> 17% Vertical shift


The lens shift is measured from the centre of the screen, so if the projector is located at the top of the screen you're already using 50% vertical lens shift.


----------



## blazin912

Dominic Chan said:


> blazin912 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The PJ will be ~8-10" above the screen.
> 
> I believe this means I need:
> 
> 23-29% Horizontal shift
> 17% Vertical shift
> 
> 
> 
> The lens shift is measured from the centre of the screen, so if the projector is located at the top of the screen you're already using 50% vertical lens shift.
Click to expand...

Ok so more like 67% vertical 29% horizontal is that reasonable??


----------



## JustAnEE

Dominic Chan said:


> Are you using any keystone adjustments to make the image “square”? They can also change the aspect ratio, although usually reducing the width instead of the height.


You're correct it shouldn't change the aspect ratio, but that assumes the projector is horizontally aligned with the projection surface (since on this projector keystone is correcting for vertical alignment).

Keystone projects a trapezoid. Negative keystone doesn't use the top part of the LCD while Positive keystone adjustments don't use the bottom portion. Solution is to turn off keystone, line up the projector square with the surface it's projecting to, and use lens shift. I'd suggest use "Pattern" for aligning the projector. if you zoom where the image is smaller than necessary, then aim the projector until it's rectangular. Then zoom to the appropriate size and lens shift, fine tune the vertical and horizontal to get the rectangle again, and zoom/lens shift again to the final position.
The only reason to use keystone is if you *need* more vertical lens shift than the projector has. 

If the screen is still not filled vertically, I'd guess possibly it's a 16:10 screen? (or a 4:3, but that should be more obvious if it were the case...) 

Here's an example with the projector properly aligned with the screen and with keystone set to 0, keystone set to -60, and keystone set to +60:
edit:no idea why the images are flipped upside down here -- they were rotated correctly in onedrive and on my PC.


----------



## sleepingatsea

I got my new screen installed last week and was doing some finer adjustments on the projector last night. It's on a stand behind the seating location and I noticed that black bars were slightly not even and I realised that the projector wasn't lined up to the middle of the screen. So I got it lined up and using the pattern, lined the edges up perfectly. When we watched a movie I noticed that text on screen and then the end credits looked to be on a slight angle. I used the leg adjustments on the projector to lift the left side up a bit and then it looked much better to my eyes, but then the pattern alignment was off.

So my takeaway is that the roof isn't level. I think I'm gonna have to dial it somewhere in between I guess. 

I'm also going to setup my old tripod screen in front of my new one to check black levels. For some reason (maybe I'm being a bit more discerning on the new screen) but I feel like my black levels have got worse since installing the new screen. My thinking though is that the new screen doesn't come down as low as the old one and I'm getting more reflections from the roof? It seems that the top black bars are a brighter black than the bottom ones and that colors seem to reflect back into the black in the upper area at times. I can't really remember seeing this on my old screen. The room get's completely dark and I have dark curtains but I guess the white ceilings & walls are doing there thing hey.


----------



## blazin912

blazin912 said:


> Ok so more like 67% vertical 29% horizontal is that reasonable??


Just threw my projector in the spot temporarily and it worked just fine. Not at the limit for sure.


----------



## rephormat

Lucky enough to snag a refurbished unit last week when they were in stock. Worked on the install and setup this weekend. Coming from a Epson Home Cinema 2150. All I can say is WOW! This PJ is AMAZING right out of the box even before any calibration. My main player is a Roku Ultra. The Roku successfully auto detected the PJ at 4K HDR 30Hz. I took the liberty of writing down the signal from a few of my main apps from the Roku Ultra:

*Vudu (4K HDR):* 3840 x 2160, 24 Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR

*Netflix (HD HDR):* 1920 x 1080, 60 Hz, 10 bit 4:4:4, BT.2020 HDR
*Note:* Can be forced to 4K SDR by manually setting Roku to 4K 60Hz.

*Youtube (4K HDR):* 3840 x 2160, 60 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.2020 HDR

*Disney+ (4K SDR):* 3840 x 2160, 60Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.709 SDR

*Prime (4K SDR):* 3840 x 2160, 60 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.709 SDR

As you can see each of them have their pros/cons because of the 5040ub chipset bandwidth limitations. Which leads me to my questions:


In your opinion, is HDR worth sacrificing pixels on the 5040ub?
With that being said, do you prefer HDR or SDR?
Finally, what settings do you prefer based on your previous answers (e.g. HarperVision, Harpervision w/oledurt, etc.)? (Bonus points for Roku Ultra owners)


----------



## ordivergens

rephormat said:


> Lucky enough to snag a refurbished unit last week when they were in stock. Worked on the install and setup this weekend. Coming from a Epson Home Cinema 2150. All I can say is WOW! This PJ is AMAZING right out of the box even before any calibration. My main player is a Roku Ultra. The Roku successfully auto detected the PJ at 4K HDR 30Hz. I took the liberty of writing down the signal from a few of my main apps from the Roku Ultra:
> 
> *Vudu (4K HDR):* 3840 x 2160, 24 Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2, BT.2020 HDR
> 
> *Netflix (HD HDR):* 1920 x 1080, 60 Hz, 10 bit 4:4:4, BT.2020 HDR
> *Note:* Can be forced to 4K SDR by manually setting Roku to 4K 60Hz.
> 
> *Youtube (4K HDR):* 3840 x 2160, 60 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.2020 HDR
> 
> *Disney+ (4K SDR):* 3840 x 2160, 60Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.709 SDR
> 
> *Prime (4K SDR):* 3840 x 2160, 60 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.709 SDR
> 
> As you can see each of them have their pros/cons because of the 5040ub chipset bandwidth limitations. Which leads me to my questions:
> 
> 
> In your opinion, is HDR worth sacrificing pixels on the 5040ub?
> With that being said, do you prefer HDR or SDR?
> Finally, what settings do you prefer based on your previous answers (e.g. HarperVision, Harpervision w/oledurt, etc.)? (Bonus points for Roku Ultra owners)


In my experience, 1080p vs 4k on the 5040UB is essentially the same. If you were to compare back to back you might see a slight difference, but when watching actual content, native 1080p with Epson's pixel shifting is great. HDR is a far more visible change, if you can manage to get it setup right for your environment. If you go with Digital Cinema, you can get the wider color gamut but the reduction of light from the filter might be too much. The default HDR settings are not great, with the majority of the content being too dark. Before going down the path of calibrating my projector, I had the best luck with HarperVision, but I think that is going to depend on your screen size/color, ambient lighting in environment, and just plain old personal preference. Best way would be to just try the various settings and see what looks better to you.


----------



## roland6465

rephormat said:


> Lucky enough to snag a refurbished unit last week when they were in stock...



You obviously haven't skimmed through the thread if you consider yourself lucky to get one. I know it's a "good deal" for 4K pixel shift, but you're getting what you pay for.


----------



## DavidinGA

roland6465 said:


> You obviously haven't skimmed through the thread if you consider yourself lucky to get one. I know it's a "good deal" for 4K pixel shift, but you're getting what you pay for.


Sounds like he's lucky to me if he finally was able to get one.

Your getting way more than your paying for imo.

Please do tell what you would call a better deal than a $3k pj for $1300 that performs at this level...

Plus, it's back by a full 3 year warranty! Eventually epson will run out of refurb 5040 and then start replacing 5040's with refurb 5050 models - and that sounds like winning too...


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

DavidinGA said:


> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You obviously haven't skimmed through the thread if you consider yourself lucky to get one. I know it's a "good deal" for 4K pixel shift, but you're getting what you pay for.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like he's lucky to me if he finally was able to get one.
> 
> Your getting way more than your paying for imo.
> 
> Please do tell what you would call a better deal than a $3k pj for $1300 that performs at this level...
> 
> Plus, it's back by a full 3 year warranty! Eventually epson will run out of refurb 5040 and then start replacing 5040's with refurb 5050 models - and that sounds like winning too...
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

1. You’re, not your. 

2. A $3-5K model from JVC or Sony without all the issues. 

3. That’s 3 years of retuned refurbs that haven’t been QC tested other than if it fires up with probably more issues than you originally had. Epson won’t give you a 5050. They’ll just make you wait until another reject gets sent in. 

Again, you get what you pay for.


----------



## jblade44

jaado said:


> I bought a refurbished 5040 and wondering what the best mount for below $100 price? I tried to look up and was getting different results, thought a question would be easy to get answer.
> 
> 
> Here is the one that I looked on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/QualGear-QG-...ncoding=UTF8&refRID=6PDSNSAB2AH157XFPJCM&th=1


Make a wood shelf for 10$


----------



## DavidinGA

roland6465 said:


> 1. You’re, not your.
> 
> 2. A $3-5K model from JVC or Sony without all the issues.
> 
> 3. That’s 3 years of retuned refurbs that haven’t been QC tested other than if it fires up with probably more issues than you originally had. Epson won’t give you a 5050. They’ll just make you wait until another reject gets sent in.
> 
> Again, you get what you pay for.


1. Spell check failed me.

2. A $3-5k jvc or Sony still can't compare for the money. I have zero issues with my refurb 5040.

3. Epson may very well send out refurb 5050's at some point..

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

DavidinGA said:


> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Youâ€™️re, not your.
> 
> 2. A $3-5K model from JVC or Sony without all the issues.
> 
> 3. Thatâ€™️s 3 years of retuned refurbs that havenâ€™️t been QC tested other than if it fires up with probably more issues than you originally had. Epson wonâ€™️t give you a 5050. Theyâ€™️ll just make you wait until another reject gets sent in.
> 
> Again, you get what you pay for.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Speed check failed me.
> 
> 2. A $3-5k jvc or Sony still can't compare for the money. I have zero issues with my refurb 5040.
> 
> 3. Epson may very well send out refurb 5050's at some point..
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Granted, I factor “pain in the ass” into value, and good luck with that.


----------



## blazin912

roland6465 said:


> DavidinGA said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> roland6465 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Youâ€™️re, not your.
> 
> 2. A $3-5K model from JVC or Sony without all the issues.
> 
> 3. Thatâ€™️s 3 years of retuned refurbs that havenâ€™️t been QC tested other than if it fires up with probably more issues than you originally had. Epson wonâ€™️t give you a 5050. Theyâ€™️ll just make you wait until another reject gets sent in.
> 
> Again, you get what you pay for.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Speed check failed me.
> 
> 2. A $3-5k jvc or Sony still can't compare for the money. I have zero issues with my refurb 5040.
> 
> 3. Epson may very well send out refurb 5050's at some point..
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Granted, I factor “pain in the ass” into value, and good luck with that.
Click to expand...

So why are you here? I see no value in your comments in this owner's thread. Cautionary tale for a recommendation elsewhere, sure.


----------



## roland6465

To warn people of the Epson Refurb Roulette. I played it for 16 months, and I paid full new price and got treated just as badly as the refurb customers.


----------



## john hunter

ordivergens said:


> In my experience, 1080p vs 4k on the 5040UB is essentially the same. If you were to compare back to back you might see a slight difference, but when watching actual content, native 1080p with Epson's pixel shifting is great. HDR is a far more visible change, if you can manage to get it setup right for your environment. If you go with Digital Cinema, you can get the wider color gamut but the reduction of light from the filter might be too much. The default HDR settings are not great, with the majority of the content being too dark. Before going down the path of calibrating my projector, I had the best luck with HarperVision, but I think that is going to depend on your screen size/color, ambient lighting in environment, and just plain old personal preference. Best way would be to just try the various settings and see what looks better to you.


Which is why you should try a Panasonic UB420 player and let it do the tone mapping.
As many have said it's like getting a new updated PJ.
They cost very little and are a great bargain.


----------



## gene4ht

john hunter said:


> Which is why you should try a Panasonic UB420 player and let it do the tone mapping.
> As many have said it's like getting a new updated PJ.
> They cost very little and are a great bargain.


There are members who have recently picked up the Panny UB420 at the sale price. Understanding that image quality depends heavily on image size, screen type, and ambient light conditions, would you mind sharing your settings on the 420 and the 5040 so new owners can have a baseline for HDR and tone mapping from which to work from? TIA


----------



## Dominic Chan

gene4ht said:


> There are members who have recently picked up the Panny UB420 at the sale price. Understanding that image quality depends heavily on image size, screen type, and ambient light conditions, would you mind sharing your settings on the 420 and the 5040 so new owners can have a baseline for HDR and tone mapping from which to work from? TIA


Take a look at this thread 
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...librating-hdr-epson-5040-6040-projectors.html


----------



## ordivergens

john hunter said:


> Which is why you should try a Panasonic UB420 player and let it do the tone mapping.
> As many have said it's like getting a new updated PJ.
> They cost very little and are a great bargain.


Yeah I was thinking about picking one of these up.

I was hoping my Panasonic UB900 had something like this. I looked through the settings, but didn't see anything. I bought it like 4 years ago for ~$600...


----------



## Archaea

john hunter said:


> Which is why you should try a Panasonic UB420 player and let it do the tone mapping.
> 
> As many have said it's like getting a new updated PJ.
> 
> They cost very little and are a great bargain.




Ive done pretty thorough comparisons with the 4k HDR disk vs the 1080p disk on How to Train your Dragon 3 in 1080p disk and 4K disk and the SDR presentation is simply better on any dark scene. I ended up liking HDR disabled on this projector more in general — after comparing months worth of use back and forth. But the UB420 player I bought helps with that too.

4K SDR 60hz or 1080 SDR 60hz both look great, but I could never get satisfied with HDR on this projector. Harpervision was the closest I came - bit it still wasn’t quite right and I hated toggling everything back and forth in the menus enough I’m glad its just so much simpler and better looking in simple old SDR.

I also agree that 1080p disk upscaled vs 4k disk is inconsequential. You’d have to have a fast switch A/B to tell the difference in this 5040UB


----------



## marcosphoto

JustAnEE said:


> You're correct it shouldn't change the aspect ratio, but that assumes the projector is horizontally aligned with the projection surface (since on this projector keystone is correcting for vertical alignment).
> 
> Keystone projects a trapezoid. Negative keystone doesn't use the top part of the LCD while Positive keystone adjustments don't use the bottom portion. Solution is to turn off keystone, line up the projector square with the surface it's projecting to, and use lens shift. I'd suggest use "Pattern" for aligning the projector. if you zoom where the image is smaller than necessary, then aim the projector until it's rectangular. Then zoom to the appropriate size and lens shift, fine tune the vertical and horizontal to get the rectangle again, and zoom/lens shift again to the final position.
> The only reason to use keystone is if you *need* more vertical lens shift than the projector has.
> 
> If the screen is still not filled vertically, I'd guess possibly it's a 16:10 screen? (or a 4:3, but that should be more obvious if it were the case...)



No it's had this concern through 2 16:9 screens, but your posting here really made me think about the keystone more. I think you are probably correct, as my projector is mounted pointing downwards from the mount onto the screen - and keystone adjusted to 12. With your photos, I came to realize that in fact you are correct that the picture would change height with my current set up. But before I go messing with a near perfect projector/screen alignment by adjusting the mount - would using lens shift and adjusting the projector more horizontally actually improve the keystone effect you would get on the screen? My interpretation is that if I increase the PJ to screen angle and use lens shift vs. decreasing PJ to screen angle and using keystone - that the height of the image would alter just the same. Although, perhaps my geometry skills are weak, but in my mind either setup should end in the same result.


----------



## marcosphoto

JustAnEE said:


> You're correct it shouldn't change the aspect ratio, but that assumes the projector is horizontally aligned with the projection surface (since on this projector keystone is correcting for vertical alignment).



Well, I guess my geometry skills do suck. I decided I would take the 20min and mess with my projector mount and chalk it up as a learning experience. So I leveled the projector perfectly and set keystone to 0. 

I then projected the pattern on the screen, and used lens shift to aim the image downwards. Lo-and-behold the picture fit the dimensions of the screen almost perfectly. Not only that, but whereas before the edges of the sides showed several areas of distortion, afterwards the sides were far more straight. I seriously thought that initially aiming the projector straight at the middle of the screen was the way to start, wow. 



I find the whole experience very strange, as before I got the epson - my panasonic was aimed downwards to the screen and used keystone in exactly the same fashion (same PJ mount, position, etc) but yet I had no issues with the vertical size.


Either way, YAY! No replacement roulette - yet.


----------



## applegrcoug

Well, it looks like it finally my turn to start playing the replacement game on the 5040ub. It won't turn on...it is just dead. I guess I'm not all that enthusiastic about trading my unit for someone elses that is scratched or something. Mine has been mounted to the ceiling for the past almost two years and still looks new.


----------



## marcosphoto

applegrcoug said:


> Well, it looks like it finally my turn to start playing the replacement game on the 5040ub. It won't turn on...it is just dead. I guess I'm not all that enthusiastic about trading my unit for someone elses that is scratched or something. Mine has been mounted to the ceiling for the past almost two years and still looks new.



Curious, to all those who bought a unit new and started into roulette - what date did you buy your unit? 

A little birdie told me that units produced after mid-2018 have power supply improvements. I would like to confirm this with proof from all you people who have faulty units. Not much can come out of this other than those of us having bought after this point having a little peace of mind (or sadly those of you buying before being concerned of failure). My pre-purchase due diligence revealed a pattern that confirmed this information to possibly be correct. From what I was able to tell, it appeared most complaints of power related failures seemed to me to have occurred in units owned before this approximate date.

Mine was purchased 2019, only has 300hr on it but still no signs of problems.


----------



## gene4ht

marcosphoto said:


> Curious, to all those who bought a unit new and started into roulette - what date did you buy your unit?
> 
> A little birdie told me that units produced after mid-2018 have power supply improvements. I would like to confirm this with proof from all you people who have faulty units. Not much can come out of this other than those of us having bought after this point having a little peace of mind (or sadly those of you buying before being concerned of failure). My pre-purchase due diligence revealed a pattern that confirmed this information to possibly be correct. From what I was able to tell, it appeared most complaints of power related failures seemed to me to have occurred in units owned before this approximate date.
> 
> Mine was purchased 2019, only has 300hr on it but still no signs of problems.


I fully understand the purpose/intent of your question and Im being facetious here...but why was there a power supply improvement necessary or implemented when there has never been a formal acknowledgement that there was ever a power supply issue? Over the past 2-3 years, there have been a couple of little birdies conveying bits of anecdotal information but nothing public and formal from Epson senior leadership. For the record, my 5040 was purchased in late 2016 and falls into the half who have not experienced a failure...so far...fingers crossed.


----------



## blazin912

gene4ht said:


> marcosphoto said:
> 
> 
> 
> Curious, to all those who bought a unit new and started into roulette - what date did you buy your unit?
> 
> A little birdie told me that units produced after mid-2018 have power supply improvements. I would like to confirm this with proof from all you people who have faulty units. Not much can come out of this other than those of us having bought after this point having a little peace of mind (or sadly those of you buying before being concerned of failure). My pre-purchase due diligence revealed a pattern that confirmed this information to possibly be correct. From what I was able to tell, it appeared most complaints of power related failures seemed to me to have occurred in units owned before this approximate date.
> 
> Mine was purchased 2019, only has 300hr on it but still no signs of problems.
> 
> 
> 
> I fully understand the purpose/intent of your question and Im being facetious here...but why was there a power supply improvement necessary or implemented when there has never been a formal acknowledgement that there was ever a power supply issue? Over the past 2-3 years, there have been a couple of little birdies conveying bits of anecdotal information but nothing public and formal from Epson senior leadership. For the record, my 5040 was purchased in late 2016 and falls into the half who have not experienced a failure...so far...fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

Not to say I know what Epson is doing, but working in a similar field, this stuff happens all the time. Rev 2 has improvements. Do those warrant a recall? No. I can guarantee that what's in the unit you get today is not what went in there 3 years ago. Just in time mfg killed that. Until the case is radically different a new model will have some old design bits, some new. Old models that get repairs get new backwards compatible parts. Things get ear marked for improvement. If the power supplies in these is marginal, at some point it will boil up to the top priority and get addressed. Most likely that supply is used in a few other models to keep costs low 

Again guesses, but educated with my experience in other consumer, industrial, etc electronics design.

Which is why I'll always take rev 2, refurb, etc. Consumer electronic is not exactly the most regulated environment. Not like lives are at stake to get the first rev right or reliable.


----------



## JustAnEE

marcosphoto said:


> From what I was able to tell, it appeared most complaints of power related failures seemed to me to have occurred in units owned before this approximate date.
> 
> Mine was purchased 2019, only has 300hr on it but still no signs of problems.


IMO 300hrs is way too low an amount of usage to make any judgements whatsoever. Mine was Dec 2017 and failed a couple weeks ago. But I had over 5k hours on it.... 



marcosphoto said:


> Well, I guess my geometry skills do suck. I decided I would take the 20min and mess with my projector mount and chalk it up as a learning experience. So I leveled the projector perfectly and set keystone to 0.
> 
> I then projected the pattern on the screen, and used lens shift to aim the image downwards. Lo-and-behold the picture fit the dimensions of the screen almost perfectly. Not only that, but whereas before the edges of the sides showed several areas of distortion, afterwards the sides were far more straight. I seriously thought that initially aiming the projector straight at the middle of the screen was the way to start, wow.
> 
> 
> 
> I find the whole experience very strange, as before I got the epson - my panasonic was aimed downwards to the screen and used keystone in exactly the same fashion (same PJ mount, position, etc) but yet I had no issues with the vertical size.
> ...


Great to hear! All i can guess is your prior projector may have had both horizontal and vertical digital keystone corrections. Sometimes they come with "automatic" leveling based on an accelerometer, that's turned on by default. Makes me sad imagining how the image may have sufferred with both corrections ( probably 720p or less equivalent). 

You want the projector both level with the screen it's projecting on to (which you noted) and also projecting perpendicular to the screen surface. If by chance the righthand side of the image is still "longer" than the left, the solution is to turn the projector to point slightly to the left of where it does currently, and vice versa if the lefthand side is longer. 

Not really anything to feel that inept about not figuring it all out the first time. IT departments (for example) and maybe even some "professional" AV installers in general can actually be surprisingly terrible at seeing up projectors, even though it's their "day job".


----------



## applegrcoug

marcosphoto said:


> Curious, to all those who bought a unit new and started into roulette - what date did you buy your unit?
> 
> A little birdie told me that units produced after mid-2018 have power supply improvements. I would like to confirm this with proof from all you people who have faulty units. Not much can come out of this other than those of us having bought after this point having a little peace of mind (or sadly those of you buying before being concerned of failure). My pre-purchase due diligence revealed a pattern that confirmed this information to possibly be correct. From what I was able to tell, it appeared most complaints of power related failures seemed to me to have occurred in units owned before this approximate date.
> 
> Mine was purchased 2019, only has 300hr on it but still no signs of problems.


June of 2018.


----------



## JustAnEE

marcosphoto said:


> With your photos, I came to realize that in fact you are correct that the picture would change height with my current set up. But before I go messing with a near perfect projector/screen alignment by adjusting the mount - would using lens shift and adjusting the projector more horizontally actually improve the keystone effect you would get on the screen? My interpretation is that if I increase the PJ to screen angle and use lens shift vs. decreasing PJ to screen angle and using keystone - that the height of the image would alter just the same. Although, perhaps my geometry skills are weak, but in my mind either setup should end in the same result.


Digital keystone theoretically shouldn't change the height either, assuming the projector is lined up horizontally and the calculations are done perfectly inside the electronics. But there might be slight distortion at the extremes of the lens shift as well as errors in the digital correction. The main reason to avoid keystone is that image quality will suffer with it. The image will lose much sharpness and some resolution. This is because digital keystone will project a smaller (less pixels) and distorted image (trapezoid) than the source material. But if the source is only 1080p and your using "4k enhance", the loss might be slightly lessened... 


Lining the projector aimed exactly perpendicular to the screen and using lens shift will avoid any distortion (except if there's some distortion at an extreme edge of allowable lens shift.). 
It's a repeat process to aim it accurately. Start with the pattern significantly smaller than the screen, shift into view, approximate a rectangle. If the right edge is smaller than the left, point projector further to the right. If the top edge is smaller than the lower, point slightly up. Increase zoom so pattern almost fills screen. Now you can use your screen's frame to determine relative length of sides. Repeat more precise adjustments left/right and up/ down. Increase to final zoom and lens shift settings.


----------



## gene4ht

blazin912 said:


> Consumer electronic is not exactly the most regulated environment. Not like lives are at stake to get the first rev right or reliable.


I’ve spent a career in the consumer electronics industry. No organization produces a perfect product 100% of the time. In those many years, I’ve worked for both large and small organizations...most were fully transparent while others were not relative to product performance and integrity. Many organizations, on their own initiative, publish product bulletins and change logs to inform consumers of product changes. This is a conscience business choice and in today’s market place, most would likely agree that the greater the honesty and transparency, the greater respect an entity gains with the consumer. It is not my intent to start a debate here...just sharing my opinion and experiences.


----------



## blazin912

gene4ht said:


> blazin912 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Consumer electronic is not exactly the most regulated environment. Not like lives are at stake to get the first rev right or reliable.
> 
> 
> 
> Iâ€™️ve spent a career in the consumer electronics industry. No organization produces a perfect product 100% of the time. In those many years, Iâ€™️ve worked for both large and small organizations...most were fully transparent while others were not relative to product performance and integrity. Many organizations, on their own initiative, publish product bulletins and change logs to inform consumers of product changes. This is a conscience business choice and in todayâ€™️s market place, most would likely agree that the greater the honesty and transparency, the greater respect an entity gains with the consumer. It is not my intent to start a debate here...just sharing my opinion and experiences.
Click to expand...

Yep I agree, just saying less pressure to get it right or correct it. Nobody's recalling projectors for poor power supply performance, but you can bet the same defective design gets pulled/replaced with a little more urgency in defense, medical, etc. Emphasis on little haha


----------



## marcosphoto

gene4ht said:


> I’ve spent a career in the consumer electronics industry. No organization produces a perfect product 100% of the time. In those many years, I’ve worked for both large and small organizations...most were fully transparent while others were not relative to product performance and integrity. Many organizations, on their own initiative, publish product bulletins and change logs to inform consumers of product changes. This is a conscience business choice and in today’s market place, most would likely agree that the greater the honesty and transparency, the greater respect an entity gains with the consumer. It is not my intent to start a debate here...just sharing my opinion and experiences.



Here-here, my thoughts too. I always felt a companies quality is not really down to the reliability of the products they build (mistakes and breakdowns occur to the best of them) - but how they deal with their product and support that tells the true tale. Case in point - Epson is producing some award winning projectors. However if I have bad luck with mine, with all I've learned about the support and refurbs - I probably would not buy one again. Just getting information from them on the firmware updates was like pulling teeth as they really refuse to tell you anything including information we should have a right to.


----------



## marcosphoto

JustAnEE said:


> Digital keystone theoretically shouldn't change the height either, assuming the projector is lined up horizontally and the calculations are done perfectly inside the electronics. But there might be slight distortion at the extremes of the lens shift.


Well the height certainly did change with mine as I learned this morning. The projector is secured to the ceiling well above the mid point of the screen and the whole projector was pointed downwards - requiring keystone to square the image. However at that point the lens shift would have been pretty much centered.

This morning of course the projector is still mounted well above the center point of the screen, I did not change its height. However I leveled it horizontally and used the shift to point the image downwards to fit the screen. I was then able to completely remove any keystone adjustment and the image filled the screen squarely and fully with no dimension problems at all. Problem solved. I am a little surprised, since I fully expected the image to keystone even when using lens shift to point the image downwards.

I have not watched any media to determine if there was any performance improvement with regards to image quality, but I am excited to see if there is a noticeable difference.


----------



## Jameshtx

Hi. Wanted to try these HDR settings. Are these meant for 4K movies labeled with HDR?










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

I use NATURAL setting for BDs. Tried the setting for Natural UHD on a BD and it really looks good, IMO. These settings are from here that have been posted. Just bought a Panny 420 and will be setting it up this weekend.


----------



## john hunter

gene4ht said:


> There are members who have recently picked up the Panny UB420 at the sale price. Understanding that image quality depends heavily on image size, screen type, and ambient light conditions, would you mind sharing your settings on the 420 and the 5040 so new owners can have a baseline for HDR and tone mapping from which to work from? TIA


I have had the 6040 for over a year now and have tried so many PQ settings that I have lost count.
I started with Harpervision and worked along from there.

My settings I am using now are frighteningly simple but have provided the best PQ I have seen.
As recommended by Stacy of Spears and Munsil fame, start with the basic out of the box settings as provided by Epson.
Epson's have always been reviewed as great PQ out of the box.

As I want the fullest colour gamut for HDR,I chose Cinema and just changed the power and iris settings to taste-for me high for both.
On the Panasonic UB420, enter Basic Projector settings for screen type and then turn the Optomiser on.
As recommended by someone, I set the Dynamic Range to 8, White curve to 3 and black curve to minus 4.
I thought 8 would be too high but it works brilliantly.

Then away you go!
That's all you need to do.

The PJ signal is set to SDR:2020 using the SDR"envelope "to send the full 4k source thru.
You can check this on the PJ.
My Scope screen is 9ft wide and am using an A-lens so all the light ends up on the screen.

I know it sounds too simple to be true but what have you got to loose?
You have 10 memories on the Epson-just try this on one of them!
Have fun!!


----------



## roland6465

marcosphoto said:


> Curious, to all those who bought a unit new and started into roulette - what date did you buy your unit?
> 
> A little birdie told me that units produced after mid-2018 have power supply improvements. I would like to confirm this with proof from all you people who have faulty units. Not much can come out of this other than those of us having bought after this point having a little peace of mind (or sadly those of you buying before being concerned of failure). My pre-purchase due diligence revealed a pattern that confirmed this information to possibly be correct. From what I was able to tell, it appeared most complaints of power related failures seemed to me to have occurred in units owned before this approximate date.
> 
> Mine was purchased 2019, only has 300hr on it but still no signs of problems.



Purchased 3/12/17. Power failure at just over 400 hours. Sold my fourth refurb 5/18, and got a Sony.


----------



## DavAbq

About to build my first man cave with a desired 138” scope screen I got interested in all the experiences here on refurbs. The comments are important as trying to decide which pj to get I found I had to place an order for a refurb 5040 yesterday when I saw the price. I am hoping the one I get has the latest parts and will last until the next great thing becomes affordable. That much savings over a 5050 will let me spend a bit more on the HT construction. Since I don’t yet have the HT built, what kind of checking can I do on this refurb to make sure it’s ok?


----------



## PQWil

Hi guys, so ive had my 5040ub about about 7-12 months 0 problems till today i guess this is a common problem with the 5040ub? My epson was working fine i let my nvidia shield go to sleep mode and it turned the projector off now everytime i try to turn it on no image nothing ,the fan speeds extremely fast and it just shows 1 steady blue light and one flashing blue.
So is the bulb dead or is it a epson 5040ub problem? If i dont respond its cuz im sleeping 1am.

https://youtu.be/4BPgKkb8xLM


----------



## pbels

PQWil said:


> Hi guys, so ive had my 5040ub about about 7-12 months 0 problems till today i guess this is a common problem with the 5040ub? My epson was working fine i let my nvidia shield go to sleep mode and it turned the projector off now everytime i try to turn it on no image nothing ,the fan speeds extremely fast and it just shows 1 steady blue light and one flashing blue.
> So is the bulb dead or is it a epson 5040ub problem? If i dont respond its cuz im sleeping 1am.
> 
> https://youtu.be/4BPgKkb8xLM


My bulb has been replaced several times recently but seems to work fine without any power supply issues


----------



## PQWil

pbels said:


> PQWil said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys, so ive had my 5040ub about about 7-12 months 0 problems till today i guess this is a common problem with the 5040ub? My epson was working fine i let my nvidia shield go to sleep mode and it turned the projector off now everytime i try to turn it on no image nothing ,the fan speeds extremely fast and it just shows 1 steady blue light and one flashing blue.
> So is the bulb dead or is it a epson 5040ub problem? If i dont respond its cuz im sleeping 1am.
> 
> https://youtu.be/4BPgKkb8xLM
> 
> 
> 
> My bulb has been replaced several times recently but seems to work fine without any power supply issues
Click to expand...



Yeah i have never changed the bulb since ive only had it for less then a year but im wondering whats the problem . Is my problem a power issue or a bulb issue since it turns on fan on max speed but display no image.


----------



## tibimakai

The issues with these is, that when they break, they are completely dead. Yours is not. There should be a troubleshooting section, with some error codes in the manual. See that light combination, what should be and go from there.


----------



## neck3609

FWIW, decided to take a chance on the refurb route as there was some speculation that the newer refurbs had fixed the power supply issue. Picked up a 5040UBe back in November (no 5040UBs at the time), it died over the weekend after maybe ~100 hours, likely power supply issue. So YMMV on the refurbs. Received the replacement yesterday, had it up and going in an hour or so. A bit of inconvenience, but as it is under warranty until Nov 2021, for the price it is probably still worth the risk for what you are getting in PQ. Of course if I end up swapping it out every 3-4 moths it will probably get old.


----------



## PQWil

tibimakai said:


> The issues with these is, that when they break, they are completely dead. Yours is not. There should be a troubleshooting section, with some error codes in the manual. See that light combination, what should be and go from there.




Lol Took your advice whats weird is, it was only showing 2 blue lights now that it has been a few hrs its a flashing blue light and a orange light. Aka lamp, whats even more weird it has been less then 700hr on eco mode and it died lol. 
Now i need to contact epson for them to cancel the replacement dont want a trash replacement when this one still works i had extra bulbs , and i think epson is going to send me another bulb.
Correction it had 1007hrs on the bulb now that i got it up and running again. Only projector bulb have died was a benq 1070 and it made a Pop sound this projector bulb just straight up died on me .


----------



## carlobenavidesahavia

neck3609 said:


> FWIW, decided to take a chance on the refurb route as there was some speculation that the newer refurbs had fixed the power supply issue. Picked up a 5040UBe back in November (no 5040UBs at the time), it died over the weekend after maybe ~100 hours, likely power supply issue. So YMMV on the refurbs. Received the replacement yesterday, had it up and going in an hour or so. A bit of inconvenience, but as it is under warranty until Nov 2021, for the price it is probably still worth the risk for what you are getting in PQ. Of course if I end up swapping it out every 3-4 moths it will probably get old.


Hey guys what are the best settings for MADvr or any player for the computer that uses madvr with great results for the epson or is there no need for it?


----------



## Morphx2

I tried the hdfury diva for the tone mapping. It was pretty bad, not worth buying or trying if anyone was interested. Madvr was tons tons better.

Went straight back to amazon for the return.



Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jojojava

*Epson 5040 compatible with oppo bdp-103d?*

Hi, sorry to drop in on the conversation like this, i just have a quick question, somewhat related (i hope) to the discussion. I have an oppo bdp103d and interested in upgrading to the epson 5040ub mfr refurb. Will the projector display properly in the oppo, or do i need an oppo firmware upgrade in order to do so? I have the monoprice dynamicview 4k hdmi cable. Thanks in advance! 

Jojo

Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers R/L fronts, sierra center, rythmik sub and cbm-170s in a 7.1 config
Epson 5020ub
Marantz 7011 receiver
Xbox one


----------



## carlobenavidesahavia

Are there any settings for the 5040ub on Madvr I can follow? I just bought the projector and a newbie at MADvr or is there a player I can buy which automatically configures MADvr?



Morphx2 said:


> I tried the hdfury diva for the tone mapping. It was pretty bad, not worth buying or trying if anyone was interested. Madvr was tons tons better.
> 
> Went straight back to amazon for the return.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

john hunter said:


> I have had the 6040 for over a year now and have tried so many PQ settings that I have lost count.
> I started with Harpervision and worked along from there.
> 
> My settings I am using now are frighteningly simple but have provided the best PQ I have seen.
> As recommended by Stacy of Spears and Munsil fame, start with the basic out of the box settings as provided by Epson.
> Epson's have always been reviewed as great PQ out of the box.
> 
> As I want the fullest colour gamut for HDR,I chose Cinema and just changed the power and iris settings to taste-for me high for both.
> On the Panasonic UB420, enter Basic Projector settings for screen type and then turn the Optomiser on.
> As recommended by someone, I set the Dynamic Range to 8, White curve to 3 and black curve to minus 4.
> I thought 8 would be too high but it works brilliantly.
> 
> Then away you go!
> That's all you need to do.
> 
> The PJ signal is set to SDR:2020 using the SDR"envelope "to send the full 4k source thru.
> You can check this on the PJ.
> My Scope screen is 9ft wide and am using an A-lens so all the light ends up on the screen.
> 
> I know it sounds too simple to be true but what have you got to loose?
> You have 10 memories on the Epson-just try this on one of them!
> Have fun!!



Thanks for the settings!
I'll be testing them out this afternoon


----------



## john hunter

Hope they work for you and looking forward to hearing how you got on.
Don't know what difference it makes but I had the latest firmware installed.
Good luck!!


----------



## clhug

*Genuine OEM Bulbs?*

Where the heck do I buy GENUINE OEM bulbs for the 5040? Epson's site doesn't sell them (they are listed, but I can't buy it), and I find tons on Amazon but I don't trust that any of them are truly OEM. I've tried a Google search but all I get are either Amazon or a few other sellers where again, I don't trust that what they're selling is a genuine OEM part

Also, if the bulb is burned out, will it be obvious if I pull the bulb out and look at it? Like will it look black inside or anything like that?

I was watching it and the picture just suddenly went black, and the fan revved really high. The Status light is flashing blue, and the Lamp light is solid Orange (and Power light is not lit). The manual says this is a lamp issue. I pulled the power plug and let it sit a full hour, and tried to turn back on, and get the same thing.

I took the bulb out and I can't see that it looks obviously burned out.

Would like to make sure it really is the bulb before I buy a new one.

I've had the projector about exactly 3 years (literally almost to the day), so I'd guess it's probably about time for a bulb.

Thanks!


----------



## Ashwin Kotian

Apologies in advance if this is the incorrect thread to post on this topic.

I just purchased a refurb 5040UB and currently testing it on my existing projection screen (110-120" diagonal). I used to have a Runco RS900 that failed. 

Now I can't seem to stretch the picture wide to fit the entire screen with this 5040UB. I also can't seem to be able to change the Aspect from "Normal" to anything else. Keystone settings don't really allow for any horizontal scaling. It appears that older models had a Screen Fit feature that would allow one to fix this issue.

Do any of your experts have suggestions for things/settings to try? Probably not related to this issue but Frame Interpolation is grayed out in the Settings/Menu and doesn't do anything. Oh and lastly, I used to use the Runco along with a Runco branded anamorphic lens (which I still have) if that matter.

Appreciate your suggestions! Thanks!


----------



## PQWil

clhug said:


> Where the heck do I buy GENUINE OEM bulbs for the 5040? Epson's site doesn't sell them (they are listed, but I can't buy it), and I find tons on Amazon but I don't trust that any of them are truly OEM. I've tried a Google search but all I get are either Amazon or a few other sellers where again, I don't trust that what they're selling is a genuine OEM part
> 
> Also, if the bulb is burned out, will it be obvious if I pull the bulb out and look at it? Like will it look black inside or anything like that?
> 
> I was watching it and the picture just suddenly went black, and the fan revved really high. The Status light is flashing blue, and the Lamp light is solid Orange (and Power light is not lit). The manual says this is a lamp issue. I pulled the power plug and let it sit a full hour, and tried to turn back on, and get the same thing.
> 
> I took the bulb out and I can't see that it looks obviously burned out.
> 
> Would like to make sure it really is the bulb before I buy a new one.
> 
> I've had the projector about exactly 3 years (literally almost to the day), so I'd guess it's probably about time for a bulb.
> 
> Thanks!



Well this is a official epson reseller i called Epson for a filter replacement and they told me to order it from.

https://compassmicro.com/products/projectors/powerlite-home-cinema-5040ub.html

but i wouldn't buy a 5040ub bulb for 250$ that would be my last resort .
my pj only lasted 1k hr but i still have another 2-3 bulb laying around from Epson promotion and another one i got from Epson. 3 in total well now only 2.

I would also say this is OEM 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Epson-...352878?hash=item2f21e8926e:g:EiEAAOSwHUhaClhI

Now that i'm wondering did my bulb really only last 1007hr or when i went to clean the pj it probably got loose XD. 
Im going to have to check if the bulb is truly dead.


----------



## Bandyka

I just bought a 6040 and TBH this is some of the best looking HDR picture I've seen so far. My reference was the JVC X9500 which I owned for years but this thing is better than that when it comes to HDR so not sure how some owners are not happy. I've chewed up approx 20 projectors over the past few years including the LS10K, multiple Sony 4K, top end JVCs and tested the very top of the food chain such as the laser JVC and Sony but I have to admin this 6040 is stunning compared to all when it comes to what it offers it's simply unbeatable IMO. 
My only issues are that the iris is very noisy and I can see it pumping otherwise it's a hell of a machine.


----------



## jordanfff

Ashwin Kotian said:


> Apologies in advance if this is the incorrect thread to post on this topic.
> 
> I just purchased a refurb 5040UB and currently testing it on my existing projection screen (110-120" diagonal). I used to have a Runco RS900 that failed.
> 
> Now I can't seem to stretch the picture wide to fit the entire screen with this 5040UB. I also can't seem to be able to change the Aspect from "Normal" to anything else. Keystone settings don't really allow for any horizontal scaling. It appears that older models had a Screen Fit feature that would allow one to fix this issue.
> 
> Do any of your experts have suggestions for things/settings to try? Probably not related to this issue but Frame Interpolation is grayed out in the Settings/Menu and doesn't do anything. Oh and lastly, I used to use the Runco along with a Runco branded anamorphic lens (which I still have) if that matter.
> 
> Appreciate your suggestions! Thanks!


Can you use lens zoom and the the blanking feature in the signal settings,to bring in the sides or height of projected picture


----------



## marcosphoto

Ashwin Kotian said:


> Apologies in advance if this is the incorrect thread to post on this topic.
> 
> I also can't seem to be able to change the Aspect from "Normal" to anything else. Keystone settings don't really allow for any horizontal scaling. It appears that older models had a Screen Fit feature that would allow one to fix this issue.
> 
> Do any of your experts have suggestions for things/settings to try? Probably not related to this issue but Frame Interpolation is grayed out in the Settings/Menu and doesn't do anything. Oh and lastly, I used to use the Runco along with a Runco branded anamorphic lens (which I still have) if that matter.
> 
> Appreciate your suggestions! Thanks!


I have a related question and was going to ask it today - I cannot change aspect ratio either. I learned this when I put in a DVD that for some reason was displaying a smaller than normal (but 16:9 size) picture. I have a few of these DVD's and never had a problem using the zoom aspect ratio on my Oppo, but the Epson shows you a menu and doesn't allow you to do anything with it.


----------



## ryudoadema

john hunter said:


> I have had the 6040 for over a year now and have tried so many PQ settings that I have lost count.
> I started with Harpervision and worked along from there.
> 
> My settings I am using now are frighteningly simple but have provided the best PQ I have seen.
> As recommended by Stacy of Spears and Munsil fame, start with the basic out of the box settings as provided by Epson.
> Epson's have always been reviewed as great PQ out of the box.
> 
> As I want the fullest colour gamut for HDR,I chose Cinema and just changed the power and iris settings to taste-for me high for both.
> On the Panasonic UB420, enter Basic Projector settings for screen type and then turn the Optomiser on.
> As recommended by someone, I set the Dynamic Range to 8, White curve to 3 and black curve to minus 4.
> I thought 8 would be too high but it works brilliantly.
> 
> Then away you go!
> That's all you need to do.
> 
> The PJ signal is set to SDR:2020 using the SDR"envelope "to send the full 4k source thru.
> You can check this on the PJ.
> My Scope screen is 9ft wide and am using an A-lens so all the light ends up on the screen.
> 
> I know it sounds too simple to be true but what have you got to loose?
> You have 10 memories on the Epson-just try this on one of them!
> Have fun!!


Thanks for that! I am a little confused on a couple points though. For the widest color gamut for HDR, wouldn't you use Digital Cinema? I thought that was the one that claimed 100% DCI-P3.

So you set the pj to SDR:2020 when using an HDR source? Does that just get rid of the dynamic range that the pj is not so good at, but keep the wide color gamut?


----------



## avtoronto

ryudoadema said:


> Thanks for that! I am a little confused on a couple points though. For the widest color gamut for HDR, wouldn't you use Digital Cinema? I thought that was the one that claimed 100% DCI-P3.
> 
> So you set the pj to SDR:2020 when using an HDR source? Does that just get rid of the dynamic range that the pj is not so good at, but keep the wide color gamut?


Yes to your first question. People use Natural when they find Digital Cinema to be too dim.

Some use SDR2020 and other don’t. When it comes to the Epson projectors, I’d say the usage is split so I suggest trying both.


----------



## john hunter

Both digital cinema and cinema provide 97/98 % of the P3 gamut.
Natural about 87/8.
Am playing with Dig Cinema which seems to need less Dynamic Range on the 420.
Subtle differences with Cinema and still trying to work them out.


----------



## PQWil

The one on the right is good and the one on the left is dead. I guess its burnt out.


----------



## Superman2

john hunter said:


> Both digital cinema and cinema provide 97/98 % of the P3 gamut.
> 
> Natural about 87/8.
> 
> Am playing with Dig Cinema which seems to need less Dynamic Range on the 420.
> 
> Subtle differences with Cinema and still trying to work them out.




What about bright cinema or even dynamic??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Xavier3

Bandyka said:


> I just bought a 6040 and TBH this is some of the best looking HDR picture I've seen so far. My reference was the JVC X9500 which I owned for years but this thing is better than that when it comes to HDR so not sure how some owners are not happy. I've chewed up approx 20 projectors over the past few years including the LS10K, multiple Sony 4K, top end JVCs and tested the very top of the food chain such as the laser JVC and Sony but I have to admin this 6040 is stunning compared to all when it comes to what it offers it's simply unbeatable IMO.
> My only issues are that the iris is very noisy and I can see it pumping otherwise it's a hell of a machine.


Glad to hear you like it! Means a lot with your experience in top of the line PJs.

I really love HDR on this PJ, especially since I use to an HTPC + MadVR. I really love how well it does with 1080p Blu-ray as well. Colour and contrast + brightness is fantastic.

As for the Auto-Iris, I found that changing it from ‘Fast’ to ‘Normal’ solved it for me, and now I never even notice it working. It makes the iris a lot less aggressive, as I’m quite sensitive to that. No issues with Normal and I can’t even remember the last time I heard it. Hope that helps!


----------



## Bandyka

Xavier3 said:


> Glad to hear you like it! Means a lot with your experience in top of the line PJs.
> 
> I really love HDR on this PJ, especially since I use to an HTPC + MadVR. I really love how well it does with 1080p Blu-ray as well. Colour and contrast + brightness is fantastic.
> 
> As for the Auto-Iris, I found that changing it from ‘Fast’ to ‘Normal’ solved it for me, and now I never even notice it working. It makes the iris a lot less aggressive, as I’m quite sensitive to that. No issues with Normal and I can’t even remember the last time I heard it. Hope that helps!


I am not saying this is a better projector than the X9500 but it does HDR better for sure and is unbeatable value, it does come close to the JVC IMO at 1/3 of the price. The lens is also sharp as edge edge which is unheard of at this price point.
I guess I'm just used to better irises as even in normal mode it is too noticeable for me and the fan is way to noisy in high mode however the PJ is so bright that I don't need to use it at all.
Tonight I will be experimenting with Madvr SDR/WCG. Overall I am very surprised with this PJ. I simply was not expecting this sort of image quality at this price point. I can't wait for Epson's native 4K laser line up. I did love the LS10K.


----------



## Juboy

Superman2 said:


> What about bright cinema



That's what I use with the HDR settings I use for almost all of my HDR viewing. 

I am able to directly compare the PJ image next to my LG OLED screen playing the same content and although it's clearly not as impressive as the TV image, it really isn't as far off as one might expect.


----------



## john hunter

Superman2 said:


> What about bright cinema or even dynamic??
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Way to inaccurate to start with and do not pass P3 gamut.


----------



## Superman2

john hunter said:


> Way to inaccurate to start with and do not pass P3 gamut.




Well darn, because I can’t watch HDR without either of those two. I’m using epson4010 and Panasonic 420 with HDR optimizer on. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

You should be able to use Digital Cinema with the 420 but turning the dynamic range setting up to 6 or 8. This brings the overall brightness at similar levels as bright cinema but you get WCG. 



Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Superman2

Brettmckinney said:


> You should be able to use Digital Cinema with the 420 but turning the dynamic range setting up to 6 or 8. This brings the overall brightness at similar levels as bright cinema but you get WCG.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk




I must be doing something wrong cause the 420 slider is at 8 and it’s too dim compared to Bright Cinema or even Natural. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Superman2

Superman2 said:


> I must be doing something wrong cause the 420 slider is at 8 and it’s too dim compared to Bright Cinema or even Natural.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




My Epson 4010 has 4 HDR settings too but I leave it at auto bright (hdr 1). 

I wrote off HDR for a projector to be honest but I am trying to ensure that I’ve exhausted all ways around it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## clhug

PQWil said:


> Well this is a official epson reseller i called Epson for a filter replacement and they told me to order it from.
> 
> https://compassmicro.com/products/projectors/powerlite-home-cinema-5040ub.html
> 
> but i wouldn't buy a 5040ub bulb for 250$ that would be my last resort .
> my pj only lasted 1k hr but i still have another 2-3 bulb laying around from Epson promotion and another one i got from Epson. 3 in total well now only 2.
> 
> I would also say this is OEM
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Epson-...352878?hash=item2f21e8926e:g:EiEAAOSwHUhaClhI
> 
> Now that i'm wondering did my bulb really only last 1007hr or when i went to clean the pj it probably got loose XD.
> Im going to have to check if the bulb is truly dead.


Somebody also suggested B&H photo, and I'd trust them, and they do indeed carry it, but at $299.

Ultimately, that compassmicro price of $250 IS the cheapest I can find of what I trust to be a true OEM lamp. So that's probably where I'll end up ordering from.

That ebay item is not an OEM. The detailed description clearly says that it is a generic housing. I want a complete, original Epson OEM unit, housing and bulb.

Looks like the rumored days of the $99 price for these that I read about in other posts in this forum are long gone.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Superman2 said:


> I must be doing something wrong cause the 420 slider is at 8 and it’s too dim compared to Bright Cinema or even Natural.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When I get home I'll send you my full settings to try!

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## SRTpusher

Well, I finally took the plunge. Hopefully I stay out of projector roulette hell.

This is going to replace my epson 2030 that I bought as a factory refurb 5 years ago. I use a shield (2017 model) as my source to run a media server with my content. 

To get the most out of 4k HDR source material, I'm going to need to run an HDMI cord approximately 20 ft as my current setup is wireless. 

My full run would be

3ft from shield to onkyo tx-nr1030
3ft from onkyo to wall plate (does not have to be a plate as this is an internal wall.
20 ft (up wall, across ceiling) to a wall plate in ceiling - this one would be needed as there is insulation above the ceiling (I guess I could seal a box and still use a passthrough plate)

1 ft from ceiling plate to projector

I will be doing the runs myself.

Has anyone done a similar run and how successful were you at keeping the 4k / HDR signal?

I ask because I have a 4k TV in my living room where I was not able to make the DirecTV > AV > wall plate > up wall > wall plate > tv and it would not pass the 4k signal.

Eliminating just one of the wall plates (didn't matter which one) would cause it to work. 

I know to test the setup before doing the wiring, but just trying to get some input from people who may have run across this already.


----------



## old corps

clhug said:


> Somebody also suggested B&H photo, and I'd trust them, and they do indeed carry it, but at $299.
> 
> Ultimately, that compassmicro price of $250 IS the cheapest I can find of what I trust to be a true OEM lamp. So that's probably where I'll end up ordering from.
> 
> That ebay item is not an OEM. The detailed description clearly says that it is a generic housing. I want a complete, original Epson OEM unit, housing and bulb.
> 
> Looks like the rumored days of the $99 price for these that I read about in other posts in this forum are long gone.


I had the same concern as you but I ordered one from Compass a couple months ago and it IS an OEM lamp. Excellent communication and FAST shipping. The ARE an approved Epson dealer.
Hope this helps!

Ed


----------



## clhug

old corps said:


> I had the same concern as you but I ordered one from Compass a couple months ago and it IS an OEM lamp. Excellent communication and FAST shipping. The ARE an approved Epson dealer.
> Hope this helps!
> 
> Ed


Compassmicro isn't who had the concern with. It was the ebay listing that the person who replied to my original post had given a link to. That poster said they thought the ebay one was OEM and it definitely is not.

Compassmicro is probably who I'll buy from. B&H Photo also has them and I trust, but their price is $299. (And I did find the lamp on Epson's own site finally, at $330.) So the $250 from Compassmicro is the least cost I've found for what I believe is a true OEM lamp.


----------



## gangrew

The lamp on my epson 8350 died a while back and I have been using my old sony HS60 for the last month. Just ordered a refurb 5040ub. Hopefully I wont have issues, but am prepared to deal with them if they arise. My 8350 was a refurb unit and I had no issues at all. Really looking forward to the 5040ub. 

I must say that the HS60 has blacker blacks than the 8350, but the 8350 had much better shadow detail. After using the 1080p 8350 for so many years the screen door on the 720p HS60 is very noticeable. Will be fun to see how much better the 5040ub is overall.


----------



## vikes88

*5040ub upconversion and video processing?*

I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a 5040ub as an upgrade to my epson 8345 but my internet is limited to like 9mb/s down. I have no problem buying a panasonic 420 or possibly building an htpc but if I want to buy 4k movies it might as well be discs and that is not too practical (we usually only plan ahead like 3-4 hours and then stream). 2 questions:


1. Is there a practical way to do some sort of download and play for me? 



2. If I just stream 1080p from my roku ultra, directv or other preferred device, how does the 5040ub do for upconversion and video processing?


----------



## PQWil

ok didn't know the one from ebay was not OEM good to know, but yeah compassmicro is the way to go i guess, but yeah i got 3 original bulb sent from epson, even though the refurb 5040ub bulb i got from epson only lasted 1007 hr. So i guess they reset the projector timer . These have been sent from Epson So i got a few years worth of bulb, i'll probably upgrade before i use them all probably a 5050ub when they cost less then 2k.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Any 5040/6040 owners have a Windows 10 HTPC and play 4K HEVC HDR MKV files (10 bit) and the Epson Info screen show it receiving 10 bit? If so can you please let me know your graphics card manufacturer and model?

My Radeon RX 5500 graphics card with these kind of files only show 8 bit on the Epson Info screen and the Radeon Console bit depth drop down only has 8 bit in it. Media Info confirms the files are 10 bit. If I play back the original UHD disc the Epson shows 10 bit.


----------



## Bandyka

WynsWrld98 said:


> Any 5040/6040 owners have a Windows 10 HTPC and play 4K HEVC HDR MKV files (10 bit) and the Epson Info screen show it receiving 10 bit? If so can you please let me know your graphics card manufacturer and model?
> 
> My Radeon RX 5500 graphics card with these kind of files only show 8 bit on the Epson Info screen and the Radeon Console bit depth drop down only has 8 bit in it. Media Info confirms the files are 10 bit. If I play back the original UHD disc the Epson shows 10 bit.


You have to set Windows to 24hz 4:2:2 as that is the max the PJ can display in 4K 10-12bit otherwise it will scale it down.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Bandyka said:


> You have to set Windows to 24hz 4:2:2 as that is the max the PJ can display in 4K 10-12bit otherwise it will scale it down.


Where would I do that? In Windows I only see a way to select the refresh rate and have it set to 24 Hz. I've not seen anything about 4:2:2 type settings if you can point me to where that would be. I haven't seen it in Windows nor in the Radeon Adrenalin console. Thanks.


----------



## Bandyka

WynsWrld98 said:


> Where would I do that? In Windows I only see a way to select the refresh rate and have it set to 24 Hz. I've not seen anything about 4:2:2 type settings if you can point me to where that would be. I haven't seen it in Windows nor in the Radeon Adrenalin console. Thanks.


Not sure about AMD but in nvidia its in the Nvidia control panel so I assume it would be in a similar place. A quick google search will surely reveal it


----------



## gene4ht

Hi @Bandyka...just wanted to say hello...it’s been a couple of years since we were contemplating the Onkyo 3100 until you jumped ship to Anthem. At any rate, it looks like we both settled in on Epson for the time being.


----------



## Bandyka

gene4ht said:


> Hi @Bandyka...just wanted to say hello...it’s been a couple of years since we were contemplating the Onkyo 3100 until you jumped ship to Anthem. At any rate, it looks like we both settled in on Epson for the time being.


G'day, yes it's been a while...
Really happy with the Epson despite my previous one being the X9500. Anthem sound is outstanding but their software and firmware is rather cr...p 
Only just got the 6040 a week ago though but I am pretty sure it will stay until a new 4K laser comes out.


----------



## Frichard

WynsWrld98 said:


> Where would I do that? In Windows I only see a way to select the refresh rate and have it set to 24 Hz. I've not seen anything about 4:2:2 type settings if you can point me to where that would be. I haven't seen it in Windows nor in the Radeon Adrenalin console. Thanks.


Once your set at 24hz

In Adrenalin go in setting > Display > Pixel Format

There you should see 4:2:2


----------



## STL D

Whelp guys, I'm joining the 5040ub party. As much as I wanted the 5050ub, I just couldn't bring myself to pay over 2x the price for it with the 5040ub refurb price. It'll be here monday. 

I figure this should tide me over until we see affordable 4k lasers start popping up.


----------



## slinger45

SRTpusher said:


> Well, I finally took the plunge. Hopefully I stay out of projector roulette hell.
> 
> This is going to replace my epson 2030 that I bought as a factory refurb 5 years ago. I use a shield (2017 model) as my source to run a media server with my content.
> 
> To get the most out of 4k HDR source material, I'm going to need to run an HDMI cord approximately 20 ft as my current setup is wireless.
> 
> My full run would be
> 
> 3ft from shield to onkyo tx-nr1030
> 3ft from onkyo to wall plate (does not have to be a plate as this is an internal wall.
> 20 ft (up wall, across ceiling) to a wall plate in ceiling - this one would be needed as there is insulation above the ceiling (I guess I could seal a box and still use a passthrough plate)
> 
> 1 ft from ceiling plate to projector
> 
> I will be doing the runs myself.
> 
> Has anyone done a similar run and how successful were you at keeping the 4k / HDR signal?
> 
> I ask because I have a 4k TV in my living room where I was not able to make the DirecTV > AV > wall plate > up wall > wall plate > tv and it would not pass the 4k signal.
> 
> Eliminating just one of the wall plates (didn't matter which one) would cause it to work.
> 
> I know to test the setup before doing the wiring, but just trying to get some input from people who may have run across this already.


I use this, no issues with any loss of signal

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JH70UQ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## covsound1

Bandyka said:


> I just bought a 6040 and TBH this is some of the best looking HDR picture I've seen so far. My reference was the JVC X9500 which I owned for years but this thing is better than that when it comes to HDR so not sure how some owners are not happy. I've chewed up approx 20 projectors over the past few years including the LS10K, multiple Sony 4K, top end JVCs and tested the very top of the food chain such as the laser JVC and Sony but I have to admin this 6040 is stunning compared to all when it comes to what it offers it's simply unbeatable IMO.
> My only issues are that the iris is very noisy and I can see it pumping otherwise it's a hell of a machine.


hello i remember you in the jvc forum and thought your comments where on point. i have a 6040 for about 2years? looking to upgrade to 5050 or optima z dlp 65.after reading your comment i may just stay still.i watch some hdr last night and turned off all lights,from a ruko sending 422 10 bit bt 2020,high contrast 2.8 screen,hd fury for hand shake. some of the best hdr i have seen was with the samsung 8500 but with all the lights off its flaws pop through.got a oled fixed that and hdr is nice on it but the epson just makes me say wow! others that read this post play with your machine and dont follow rules brightness and gamma settings are key. and to think all i had to do was turn off all the lights to fall in love with this machine again.


----------



## Mark Prusak

STL D said:


> Whelp guys, I'm joining the 5040ub party. As much as I wanted the 5050ub, I just couldn't bring myself to pay over 2x the price for it with the 5040ub refurb price. It'll be here monday.
> 
> I figure this should tide me over until we see affordable 4k lasers start popping up.


Ditto. I just ordered my refurb 5040. Spent the last several weeks waffling back and forth between the 50 and 40. I also couldn't justify the difference in my own head. For the difference, I can get a set of theater seats I've been eying and an apple tv 4k and some UHD discs, and still come out ahead.

Fingers crossed that the refurb is a "good one"...


----------



## STL D

Mark Prusak said:


> Ditto. I just ordered my refurb 5040. Spent the last several weeks waffling back and forth between the 50 and 40. I also couldn't justify the difference in my own head. For the difference, I can get a set of theater seats I've been eying and an apple tv 4k and some UHD discs, and still come out ahead.
> 
> Fingers crossed that the refurb is a "good one"...


That's the same thing I'm worried about. Considering how many of these things have sold in refurb format, I don't think the percentage is as high as it seems to be, but it's clearly a real possibility.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Frichard said:


> Once your set at 24hz
> 
> In Adrenalin go in setting > Display > Pixel Format
> 
> There you should see 4:2:2


Thank you I'll check it out tonight. I'm currently set to RGB does it matter if I'm set to RGB or YCbCr/YUV?


----------



## Superman2

Brettmckinney said:


> When I get home I'll send you my full settings to try!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk




Anything? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

Superman2 said:


> Anything?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry! It's been one of those weeks. 100% will have the projector on tonight so will send them through.
Although.. I did realise that perhaps I've misinterpreted a bit. 

The settings I have are using HDR-SDR conversion in the 420, so setting it to SDR2020. With this and digital cinema mode using WCG the image is absolutely stunning and in comparing against sending HDR signal it's much better IMO.

Anyway, will send them through for you to try!

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

covsound1 said:


> hello i remember you in the jvc forum and thought your comments where on point. i have a 6040 for about 2years? looking to upgrade to 5050 or optima z dlp 65.after reading your comment i may just stay still.i watch some hdr last night and turned off all lights,from a ruko sending 422 10 bit bt 2020,high contrast 2.8 screen,hd fury for hand shake. some of the best hdr i have seen was with the samsung 8500 but with all the lights off its flaws pop through.got a oled fixed that and hdr is nice on it but the epson just makes me say wow! others that read this post play with your machine and dont follow rules brightness and gamma settings are key. and to think all i had to do was turn off all the lights to fall in love with this machine again.


Hey,

In no way a PJ can be better than an OLED however yes it has the woow factor due to the sheer size and the 6040 does produce stunning HDR images in fact some of the best I've seen on any PJ.
You had lights on??? No projector will perform at all with lights on or even in poorly light controlled room.You should see it in my pitch black cave.
You can play with gamma and brightness but the picture will not be accurate, you may find that in dark scenes it will be washed out etc.


----------



## SRTpusher

Got my unit in today. Hooked up and everything seems good. No bad pixels, ran for about two hours, no issues.

I'm upgrading from a 2030 so the picture improvement is awesome. Throwing 110" image.

I ordered a beefier mount and some HDMI cables. Need to run a line as I'm using wireless on my current projector. 

Heading to bed, will update my projector progress tomorrow


----------



## sleepingatsea

Brettmckinney said:


> Sorry! It's been one of those weeks. 100% will have the projector on tonight so will send them through.
> Although.. I did realise that perhaps I've misinterpreted a bit.
> 
> The settings I have are using HDR-SDR conversion in the 420, so setting it to SDR2020. With this and digital cinema mode using WCG the image is absolutely stunning and in comparing against sending HDR signal it's much better IMO.
> 
> Anyway, will send them through for you to try!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Panny UHD
HDMI/Advances settings
HDR/Colour Gamut Output - SDR/BT2020
Option (Remote)
HDR Optimiser On
DR Conversion +8
Tone Curve (White) +4
Tone Curve (Black) -4 

Epson

Digital Cinema
Brightness 51
Contrast 62
Color Saturation 52
Tint 50
Sharpness 9/9/9
Color temp 4
Skin tone 3
Image enhancement 3
Super resolution 6/6

Advanced
Gamma - customised
0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28, -26, 16, 32
RGB 50/50/50 for all
Super White off
Iris 0
Power medium
Auto iris normal

Signal/Advanced 
Dynamic Range SDR
Image processing fast

Or
Panny - output HDR BT2020
HDR Optimiser on
DR adjustment +1 or +2

Epson
Digital Cinema
Brightness 46
Contrast 100
Color sat 72
Tint 50
Color temp 4
Skin tone 3
Gamma - as above
Power - high
Singal/advanced 
Dynamic range SDR




Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## marcosphoto

SRTpusher said:


> Well, I finally took the plunge. Hopefully I stay out of projector roulette hell.
> 
> This is going to replace my epson 2030 that I bought as a factory refurb 5 years ago. I use a shield (2017 model) as my source to run a media server with my content.
> 
> To get the most out of 4k HDR source material, I'm going to need to run an HDMI cord approximately 20 ft as my current setup is wireless.
> 
> My full run would be
> 
> 3ft from shield to onkyo tx-nr1030
> 3ft from onkyo to wall plate (does not have to be a plate as this is an internal wall.
> 20 ft (up wall, across ceiling) to a wall plate in ceiling - this one would be needed as there is insulation above the ceiling (I guess I could seal a box and still use a passthrough plate)
> 
> 1 ft from ceiling plate to projector
> 
> I will be doing the runs myself.
> 
> Has anyone done a similar run and how successful were you at keeping the 4k / HDR signal?
> 
> I ask because I have a 4k TV in my living room where I was not able to make the DirecTV > AV > wall plate > up wall > wall plate > tv and it would not pass the 4k signal.
> 
> Eliminating just one of the wall plates (didn't matter which one) would cause it to work.
> 
> I know to test the setup before doing the wiring, but just trying to get some input from people who may have run across this already.



Originally I ran a 3ft no-name HDMI from BR to AVR, then 35ft no-name from AVR to PJ with no problems caused by cables. I did have problems passing 4K HDR through my non-HDCP2.2 compliant AVR which led to me removing the AVR from the equation and running just the 35ft from the BR to PJ. Otherwise, I think HDMI cabling seems to be a bit of a crap-shoot, but I suppose maybe I got lucky. Having said this, I would buy certified in the future to avoid concerns and future proof since running cable in the ceiling is very hard and time consuming.


----------



## pete ramberg

SRTpusher said:


> Got my unit in today. Hooked up and everything seems good. No bad pixels, ran for about two hours, no issues.
> 
> I'm upgrading from a 2030 so the picture improvement is awesome. Throwing 110" image.
> The I np
> 
> I ordered a beefier mount and some HDMI cables. Need to run a line as I'm using wireless on my current projector.
> 
> Heading to bed, will update my projector progress tomorrow



Go Pack, go!!!!!!!


----------



## Superman2

Brettmckinney said:


> Panny UHD
> HDMI/Advances settings
> HDR/Colour Gamut Output - SDR/BT2020
> Option (Remote)
> HDR Optimiser On
> DR Conversion +8
> Tone Curve (White) +4
> Tone Curve (Black) -4
> 
> Epson
> 
> Digital Cinema
> Brightness 51
> Contrast 62
> Color Saturation 52
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 9/9/9
> Color temp 4
> Skin tone 3
> Image enhancement 3
> Super resolution 6/6
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma - customised
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28, -26, 16, 32
> RGB 50/50/50 for all
> Super White off
> Iris 0
> Power medium
> Auto iris normal
> 
> Signal/Advanced
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image processing fast
> 
> Or
> Panny - output HDR BT2020
> HDR Optimiser on
> DR adjustment +1 or +2
> 
> Epson
> Digital Cinema
> Brightness 46
> Contrast 100
> Color sat 72
> Tint 50
> Color temp 4
> Skin tone 3
> Gamma - as above
> Power - high
> Singal/advanced
> Dynamic range SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk




Thanks man, much appreciated. I like to try out what people say may work better. Those 420 settings (SDR settings) are the ones I’ve been using and yes it made a huge difference but nothing highly diff than what I was getting with regular 1080p SDR, it just removed the ridiculous dimness of the 4kBlurays I’ve bought which is good! The 4010 thread isn’t too active so I try out some 5040/5050 settings once and awhile. Will try out both these settings tonight. Thanks again. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## STL D

SRTpusher said:


> Got my unit in today. Hooked up and everything seems good. No bad pixels, ran for about two hours, no issues.
> 
> I'm upgrading from a 2030 so the picture improvement is awesome. Throwing 110" image.
> 
> I ordered a beefier mount and some HDMI cables. Need to run a line as I'm using wireless on my current projector.
> 
> Heading to bed, will update my projector progress tomorrow


Mine gets here Monday. Would've been yesterday, but epson's security team called me during my son's IEP meetings and I couldn't call them back in time for them to ship it out that day.


----------



## SRTpusher

Apparently the onkyo 1030 doesn't pass the HDR signal. My shield won't give the option to send the signal in the custom options when I pass it through the AVR but if I run it direct they show up. It doesn't appear to be a huge difference and I definitely don't want to buy a new receiver.


----------



## Bandyka

SRTpusher said:


> Apparently the onkyo 1030 doesn't pass the HDR signal. My shield won't give the option to send the signal in the custom options when I pass it through the AVR but if I run it direct they show up. It doesn't appear to be a huge difference and I definitely don't want to buy a new receiver.


Can you run one cable directly to the PJ and another to the AVR just for sound?


----------



## blazin912

Anyone have a single device solution yet as input to their device? Looking for 4k HDR w/ atmos mkvs , Netflix 1080p, Amazon, and Disney+

AFAIK:
Shield streaming covers most but no tone mapping.

HTPC covers tone mapping but streaming is a cluster. Netflix app is terrible w/ mouse/keyboard but provides 1080, Netflix input stream on Kodi is a mixed bag of resolution a lot of low res like... 960x540 yuck

I want a single remote controlled ui like all inside Kodi, or all in an Android based launcher ie shield, fire stick
I really don't want to be loading discs as my kids will destroy them.. 

Is there any hope? Notice I regard physical/local backups as the full experience, atmos, HDR, 4k. Streaming, can be lesser but please.. 720p minimum 


Helllllp!


----------



## john hunter

Brettmckinney said:


> Panny UHD
> HDMI/Advances settings
> HDR/Colour Gamut Output - SDR/BT2020
> Option (Remote)
> HDR Optimiser On
> DR Conversion +8
> Tone Curve (White) +4
> Tone Curve (Black) -4
> 
> Epson
> 
> Digital Cinema
> Brightness 51
> Contrast 62
> Color Saturation 52
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 9/9/9
> Color temp 4
> Skin tone 3
> Image enhancement 3
> Super resolution 6/6
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma - customised
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28, -26, 16, 32
> RGB 50/50/50 for all
> Super White off
> Iris 0
> Power medium
> Auto iris normal
> 
> Signal/Advanced
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image processing fast
> 
> Or
> Panny - output HDR BT2020
> HDR Optimiser on
> DR adjustment +1 or +2
> 
> Epson
> Digital Cinema
> Brightness 46
> Contrast 100
> Color sat 72
> Tint 50
> Color temp 4
> Skin tone 3
> Gamma - as above
> Power - high
> Singal/advanced
> Dynamic range SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Interesting settings Brett.
Your HDR /2020 settings did not work for me but did when used with your SDR settings with the Opt at plus 8 and the gamma/black level adjusted.
Still checking them out but they seem very good.
Cheers .


----------



## mraub

For reasons I can't figure out, 4K Enhancement is greyed out in the menus of my 5040. I recently updated the projector firmware so I suppose that could have changed something, though it left all the rest of my settings intact. Epson's manual is no help.

Anyone have any idea of why I seem to have lost 4K Enhancement and how do I get it back.

Thanks.


----------



## noob00224

mraub said:


> For reasons I can't figure out, 4K Enhancement is greyed out in the menus of my 5040. I recently updated the projector firmware so I suppose that could have changed something, though it left all the rest of my settings intact. Epson's manual is no help.
> 
> Anyone have any idea of why I seem to have lost 4K Enhancement and how do I get it back.
> 
> Thanks.


Are you sending a 4K signal?


----------



## mraub

According to Apple TV I am. I don't think that is controlling though, since it is supposed to upsample a 1080P image as well.




noob00224 said:


> Are you sending a 4K signal?


----------



## noob00224

mraub said:


> According to Apple TV I am. I don't think that is controlling though, since it is supposed to upsample a 1080P image as well.


I believe the 4K enhancement feature only works with a 1080p signal.
Try it out.


----------



## jbnpaul

mraub said:


> According to Apple TV I am. I don't think that is controlling though, since it is supposed to upsample a 1080P image as well.




5040 needs 4k enhancement to display 4k content. So it is always on when 4k content is fed. Hence no option to disable or enable 4k enhancement.

If you want to see 4k enhancement in action ... set Apple TV to 1080p and switch 4k enchantment on and off ... while keeping your eye one or two feet away from the screen.
You can literally see the additional pixels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## SRTpusher

Bandyka said:


> SRTpusher said:
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently the onkyo 1030 doesn't pass the HDR signal. My shield won't give the option to send the signal in the custom options when I pass it through the AVR but if I run it direct they show up. It doesn't appear to be a huge difference and I definitely don't want to buy a new receiver.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you run one cable directly to the PJ and another to the AVR just for sound?
Click to expand...

The shield only has one output but I found a device from hdfury called the AVR Key that will do what you said


----------



## Bandyka

SRTpusher said:


> The shield only has one output but I found a device from hdfury called the AVR Key that will do what you said


That's the only way sadly. I used to have the 3030 and that's why I sold it.


----------



## gene4ht

SRTpusher said:


> Apparently the onkyo 1030 doesn't pass the HDR signal. My shield won't give the option to send the signal in the custom options when I pass it through the AVR but if I run it direct they show up. It doesn't appear to be a huge difference and *I definitely don't want to buy a new receiver.*


Unless one has an unlimited disposable income, this is precisely the reason why conventional wisdom suggests investing more in stable/mature technology like speakers rather than electronics which constantly evolves. Until recently, I’ve been guilty of shopping at or near he top of the food chain it. My aim is now mid range so periodic adjustments can be made a bit more often. Unfortunately, like many other hobbies, it’s the “nature of the beast.” And perhaps like @Bandyka, buy, sell, buy with an eye on marketing timing is also a good strategy. In any case, if we want to keep up with what this hobby offers, it’s only a matter of when we buy that new receiver.


----------



## STL D

Hooked mine up for a quick test run before I change up the room a bit, and great news!

No dust blob, no pixel issues. I'm mighty impressed.


----------



## SRTpusher

STL D said:


> Hooked mine up for a quick test run before I change up the room a bit, and great news!
> 
> No dust blob, no pixel issues. I'm mighty impressed.


Nice! I got a good one as well!


----------



## SRTpusher

gene4ht said:


> SRTpusher said:
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently the onkyo 1030 doesn't pass the HDR signal. My shield won't give the option to send the signal in the custom options when I pass it through the AVR but if I run it direct they show up. It doesn't appear to be a huge difference and *I definitely don't want to buy a new receiver.*
> 
> 
> 
> Unless one has an unlimited disposable income, this is precisely the reason why conventional wisdom suggests investing more in stable/mature technology like speakers rather than electronics which constantly evolves. Until recently, Iâ€™️ve been guilty of shopping at or near he top of the food chain it. My aim is now mid range so periodic adjustments can be made a bit more often. Unfortunately, like many other hobbies, itâ€™️s the â€œnature of the beast.â€/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif And perhaps like @Bandyka, buy, sell, buy with an eye on marketing timing is also a good strategy. In any case, if we want to keep up with what this hobby offers, itâ€™️s only a matter of when we buy that new receiver./forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

At the time, (2015) it was the most "affordable" 9.2 Atmos receiver that could accept a 2 channel amp to run 7.2.4. 

The receiver's Dolby surround mode makes the lack of DTS:X not as bad as it does a great job creating the overheads. 

I missed a sale on the onkyo tx-rz830 for $499... Still miffed about that one...


----------



## STL D

SRTpusher said:


> Nice! I got a good one as well!


I am notorious for having the worst luck with purchases in the world, so I thought for sure if anyone was going to get a bad one it would be me. Truth be told, this thing is absolutely perfect out the box. I do have to admit that the projector is bigger than I expected. I've seen them in stores, but the size doesn't actually hit you until you're trying to figure out placement in your own room.


----------



## SRTpusher

STL D said:


> SRTpusher said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! I got a good one as well!
> 
> 
> 
> I am notorious for having the worst luck with purchases in the world, so I thought for sure if anyone was going to get a bad one it would be me. Truth be told, this thing is absolutely perfect out the box. I do have to admit that the projector is bigger than I expected. I've seen them in stores, but the size doesn't actually hit you until you're trying to figure out placement in your own room. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

It was a little bigger... 😆


----------



## gene4ht

SRTpusher said:


> At the time, (2015) it was the most "affordable" 9.2 Atmos receiver that could accept a 2 channel amp to run 7.2.4.
> 
> The receiver's Dolby surround mode makes the lack of DTS:X not as bad as it does a great job creating the overheads.
> 
> I missed a sale on the onkyo tx-rz830 for $499... *Still miffed about that one...*


Don’t be...you would have been extremely disappointed. The newer Onkyo’s (6xx/7xx/8xx) lack the sound signature and quality of the classic models. Since Onkyo’s acquisition of Pioneer’s home entertainment division in 2015, Onkyo went from class a/b to class d amps and less robust power supplies. This resulted in a far less powerful, detailed, and clear sound signature in the current models. Unless you’ve owned the previous classic models (10xx/30xx/50xx and prior), you wouldn’t be aware of the diminished performance. It is hoped that Onkyo is able to return to its roots. However, it’s unlikely due to lack of financial resources and forward thinking leadership.


----------



## SRTpusher

gene4ht said:


> SRTpusher said:
> 
> 
> 
> At the time, (2015) it was the most "affordable" 9.2 Atmos receiver that could accept a 2 channel amp to run 7.2.4.
> 
> The receiver's Dolby surround mode makes the lack of DTS:X not as bad as it does a great job creating the overheads.
> 
> I missed a sale on the onkyo tx-rz830 for $499... *Still miffed about that one...*
> 
> 
> 
> Donâ€™️t be...you would have been extremely disappointed. The newer Onkyoâ€™️s (6xx/7xx/8xx) lack the sound signature and quality of the classic models. Since Onkyoâ€™️s acquisition of Pioneerâ€™️s home entertainment division in 2015, Onkyo went from class a/b to class d amps and less robust power supplies. This resulted in a far less powerful, detailed, and clear sound signature in the current models. Unless youâ€™️ve owned the previous classic models (10xx/30xx/50xx and prior), you wouldnâ€™️t be aware of the diminished performance. It is hoped that Onkyo is able to return to its roots. However, itâ€™️s unlikely due to lack of financial resources and forward thinking leadership.
Click to expand...

That does make me feel a little better. I love my 1030 - except for not passing HDR...


----------



## STL D

SRTpusher said:


> It was a little bigger... 😆


My wife made that exact same comparison (we have an epson 2030 here as well). it looks like you can fit 8 of them in a single 5040UB.

I swear, she was more shocked by the size of the 5040 than she was by the size of the 3 full marty subs last month.


----------



## blazin912

I need an input for my 5040. I have nothing at the moment. Seems like shield is a go to, but do I need an HDFury device to bypass the bandwidth limitations or is the Shield configurable and stable running at reduced bit-depth, frame rate, etc?

Would like to stream Netflix 1080p, local backups 4k HDR over 1Gbps hard wire. Thoughts? I've been trying to hunt through the 600 pages here, but it's tough to find relevant answers as the Shield has multiple versions and firmware revisions.

TIA


----------



## jdbarnes63

blazin912 said:


> I need an input for my 5040. I have nothing at the moment. Seems like shield is a go to, but do I need an HDFury device to bypass the bandwidth limitations or is the Shield configurable and stable running at reduced bit-depth, frame rate, etc?
> 
> Would like to stream Netflix 1080p, local backups 4k HDR over 1Gbps hard wire. Thoughts? I've been trying to hunt through the 600 pages here, but it's tough to find relevant answers as the Shield has multiple versions and firmware revisions.
> 
> TIA


I have the 2017 Shield, Epson 5040, Denon 4500 and a Windows 10 PC with 20Tb space and run Emby media server. I play some content from Netflix at the 4K settings but mainly watch 4K backups from my Emby server. The Shield works great due to the fact it will not need to transcode the backups but will play them direct. By playing it direct it will not bog down my Windows machine. Newer Shields are a tad faster but otherwise not much has changed.

HDR content played on the Epson can be hit or miss depending on the material and your settings. I personally dont worry about it or try to correct for it, the picture quality without it is phenomenal. I have everything hardwired for 1Gbps and have AT&T fiber with 1Gbps up/down. No issues playing anything at the house. I have never messed with HDFury so I cant give you advice on using it. My suggestion is to setup with what you have, try it out and see how you like it. Picture quality like sound is subjective and everyone will see/ hear it differently. 

My theater is by no means the perfect one, I still need to finish some projects. The carpet needs to be changed to dark, the equipment rack needs moved out of the room and the ceiling will be painted pitch black to reduce any and all reflections. I plan on doing some black velvet on the screen wall, side walls apx 4 ft. out and the rear wall to kill reflections. I have used this setup for almost 3 years and have never looked back. My screen is 158" 2:35 and I run full 7.2.4 setup. The room was built as a 16 X 19 dedicated HT, no windows and all walls insulated with safe & sound.


----------



## blazin912

jdbarnes63 said:


> I have the 2017 Shield, Epson 5040, Denon 4500 and a Windows 10 PC with 20Tb space and run Emby media server. I play some content from Netflix at the 4K settings but mainly watch 4K backups from my Emby server. The Shield works great due to the fact it will not need to transcode the backups but will play them direct. By playing it direct it will not bog down my Windows machine. Newer Shields are a tad faster but otherwise not much has changed.
> 
> HDR content played on the Epson can be hit or miss depending on the material and your settings. I personally dont worry about it or try to correct for it, the picture quality without it is phenomenal. I have everything hardwired for 1Gbps and have AT&T fiber with 1Gbps up/down. No issues playing anything at the house. I have never messed with HDFury so I cant give you advice on using it. My suggestion is to setup with what you have, try it out and see how you like it. Picture quality like sound is subjective and everyone will see/ hear it differently.
> 
> My theater is by no means the perfect one, I still need to finish some projects. The carpet needs to be changed to dark, the equipment rack needs moved out of the room and the ceiling will be painted pitch black to reduce any and all reflections. I plan on doing some black velvet on the screen wall, side walls apx 4 ft. out and the rear wall to kill reflections. I have used this setup for almost 3 years and have never looked back. My screen is 158" 2:35 and I run full 7.2.4 setup. The room was built as a 16 X 19 dedicated HT, no windows and all walls insulated with safe & sound.


Great, I appreciate your help. I'm just concerned about building out a 4K HDR library for little to no benefit. You have no issues with 4K HDR direct from the shield? Do you need to change your output rate?


----------



## jbl_lvr

Mark Prusak said:


> Ditto. I just ordered my refurb 5040. Spent the last several weeks waffling back and forth between the 50 and 40. I also couldn't justify the difference in my own head. For the difference, I can get a set of theater seats I've been eying and an apple tv 4k and some UHD discs, and still come out ahead.
> 
> Fingers crossed that the refurb is a "good one"...


Yeah, a madvr pc could be had for the difference and that would kill my JVC envy a bit. I would not game on the projector, so is there no reason for the 5050 for me if I have a htpc w/ madvr? I'm glad to see others are in the same boat.


----------



## Juboy

blazin912 said:


> I'm just concerned about building out a 4K HDR library for little to no benefit. You have no issues with 4K HDR direct from the shield?


I watch pretty much everything via the Shield (2019) and HDR from Netflix and Plex looks great. It does take time to get the settings right - and it's not perfect - but the image quality really can be stunning.

All of that said, the 9300 (6040) does such a great job with 1080p SDR that the benefits of 4K HDR are definitely worthwhile but certainly not chalk and cheese.

Ultimately, if I have the option of a given TV show or film in 4K HDR or 1080p SDR I'd always opt for the former with this projector and the settings I have dialed in.


----------



## noob00224

jbl_lvr said:


> Yeah, a madvr pc could be had for the difference and that would kill my JVC envy a bit. I would not game on the projector, so is there no reason for the 5050 for me if I have a htpc w/ madvr? I'm glad to see others are in the same boat.


Madvr can't do streaming. The 18GB HDMI for 4K HDR 60Hz is only require in some instances, not all. And it would be fixed with a HDFury or another device that can change the bit depth from 10 to 8. As for HDR tone mapping an UB420 is cheap and better than the 5050's tone mapping. And it has some streaming services.


----------



## blazin912

Juboy said:


> I watch pretty much everything via the Shield (2019) and HDR from Netflix and Plex looks great. It does take time to get the settings right - and it's not perfect - but the image quality really can be stunning.
> 
> All of that said, the 9300 (6040) does such a great job with 1080p SDR that the benefits of 4K HDR are definitely worthwhile but certainly not chalk and cheese.
> 
> Ultimately, if I have the option of a given TV show or film in 4K HDR or 1080p SDR I'd always opt for the former with this projector and the settings I have dialed in.


Awesome, care to share your settings? PM if needed


----------



## Juboy

blazin912 said:


> Awesome, care to share your settings? PM if needed



More than happy to. Will make a note of them this evening and post.


----------



## jdbarnes63

blazin912 said:


> Great, I appreciate your help. I'm just concerned about building out a 4K HDR library for little to no benefit. You have no issues with 4K HDR direct from the shield? Do you need to change your output rate?


Thanks, I pulled my settings up and I have it locked into SDR, as Juboy stated, the SDR mode looks so good from the Nvidia Shield that I just have not wanted to take the time to fine dial in as he has. The 5040 is set to BT 709, SDR so the Shield will see this and send signal as is. I have no issues with watching all of my Netflix and streams from server in HDR as the Shield handles sending correctly. 

I will dial in my settings to see what Juboy has when he posts them and compare to what I have. Not really hard to change the settings on the Epson.


----------



## sleepingatsea

I'm finding that we are using the projector a bit more with our 3yr old and needing the lights to be on or is during the day. Anyone have some good settings for more of a daylight viewing? All mine currently are for the cave environment!


----------



## inspector

Just watched KING KONG on my new Panny 420 and the picture was awesome, the best I have ever seen. I'm using the settings posted on here for NATURAL UHD and searched the internet for all the setting for the Panny. 


It was the best $150 I've spent in a long time.


----------



## Frichard

Juboy said:


> I watch pretty much everything via the Shield (2019) and HDR from Netflix and Plex looks great. It does take time to get the settings right - and it's not perfect - but the image quality really can be stunning.
> 
> All of that said, the 9300 (6040) does such a great job with 1080p SDR that the benefits of 4K HDR are definitely worthwhile but certainly not chalk and cheese.
> 
> Ultimately, if I have the option of a given TV show or film in 4K HDR or 1080p SDR I'd always opt for the former with this projector and the settings I have dialed in.


Do you have a shield TV or shield Pro? I have a Shield TV and Plex stutter and then crash on high bit rate 4K HDR movie. Well it did before. I'm watching 4KHDR movie directly from my PC because of this.


----------



## Juboy

I've got both, but the Shield Pro 2019 is used for main room viewing.


----------



## jdbarnes63

Frichard said:


> Do you have a shield TV or shield Pro? I have a Shield TV and Plex stutter and then crash on high bit rate 4K HDR movie. Well it did before. I'm watching 4K HDR movie directly from my PC because of this.


Check your settings, I have my media library on my PC, I5 with 20Tb space. I stream directly to 2017 Nvidia Shield Pro, have no stuttering or lockups. When I do get stuttering its due to trying to transcode down in quality or more likely with the second, it has Subtitles that Plex is trying to burn in, that will lock it up a lot. Play the movie on your Shield and then look at how much resources are being used on your PC. When I had subtitles for all non-english portions checked, my PC would go to 100% total resources. Changed that feature and now back to 10-15%


----------



## Frichard

jdbarnes63 said:


> Check your settings, I have my media library on my PC, I5 with 20Tb space. I stream directly to 2017 Nvidia Shield Pro, have no stuttering or lockups. When I do get stuttering its due to trying to transcode down in quality or more likely with the second, it has Subtitles that Plex is trying to burn in, that will lock it up a lot. Play the movie on your Shield and then look at how much resources are being used on your PC. When I had subtitles for all non-english portions checked, my PC would go to 100% total resources. Changed that feature and now back to 10-15%


It's not a setting problem it's a Shield TV 2019 problem. It's documented.
No transcoding is being done. 

All the other Shield version are working fine.


----------



## Frichard

jdbarnes63 said:


> Check your settings, I have my media library on my PC, I5 with 20Tb space. I stream directly to 2017 Nvidia Shield Pro, have no stuttering or lockups. When I do get stuttering its due to trying to transcode down in quality or more likely with the second, it has Subtitles that Plex is trying to burn in, that will lock it up a lot. Play the movie on your Shield and then look at how much resources are being used on your PC. When I had subtitles for all non-english portions checked, my PC would go to 100% total resources. Changed that feature and now back to 10-15%


At the same time I played with madVR on my PC and get way better result from HDR movie that way.

It's less practical but I'm not sure I would go back to play 4K HDR on the shield.


----------



## vikes88

Frichard said:


> At the same time I played with madVR on my PC and get way better result from HDR movie that way.
> 
> It's less practical but I'm not sure I would go back to play 4K HDR on the shield.


Hopefully an easy question for anyone using a htpc: As a simple overview what are you actually doing to watch a movie and use madvr? (ie 1. put a 4k disc into some sort of disk drive in the pc? 2. Apply Madvr settings to the video playing software using madvr software? 3. Open some sort of video player with a remote from the theater room?)


----------



## DavidinGA

vikes88 said:


> Hopefully an easy question for anyone using a htpc: As a simple overview what are you actually doing to watch a movie and use madvr? (ie 1. put a 4k disc into some sort of disk drive in the pc? 2. Apply Madvr settings to the video playing software using madvr software? 3. Open some sort of video player with a remote from the theater room?)


I have Mkv movies ripped to my hdd and play from there. I'm pretty sure no one uses physical media to watch anything with MadVR currently.

MadVR is applied thru the media player of your choice. I use mpc-be as my player. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Malkey

*New Owner*

Hi, I'm hoping someone can check my math to set my mind at ease. I ordered the 5040ub through the refurbished deal and was just playing around with some calculators that have me thinking its going to be WAY too bright for my room. . . maybe. 

I'm attaching screenshots of the numbers. Projector central said I'd be at 83 fL with my current setup. I read a post that Web Projector Calculator is more accurate so I tried that. If I put the projector all the way in the back of the room and use the Lamp Low mode it says I'll be at 36.4 fL ([email protected] hours). It seems like that would be the high end of okay, but I'm seeking reassurance. I never would have imagined I'd be in a situation with a projector that was too bright. 

If you're still reading and want back story, my 10 year old Optoma HD20 finally blew it's bulb so I get to upgrade. I was pointed to the refurb deal on another thread. My home theater room is 10 feet wide and 19 feet from the back wall to the projector screen (there's another 3 feet behind the screen to accommodate a door swinging open). It's a 100" elite screens motorized screen I mounted lower than the ceiling. Front row is 10 or 11 feet, second row is 14 feet. I'll put room pics in the next post.

I did some searching throughout this thread and it got me is analysis paralysis so I just had to ask. Thanks for your help.


----------



## Malkey

Here are some pics of my room. Klipsch speakers and surrounds. Bic America F12 sub. Home made acoustic panels. I had a 120" at my last place but it wouldn't fit in this room. Well it would if I got rid of the floor speakers, or got an acoustically transparent screen. I tried two transparent screens and wasn't happy. This was the motorized one that would fit and was what I could afford at the time.

I have a Tivo, PS3, and 4K AppleTV. Looks like the Panasonic UB420 is at Best Buy, should I get one of those? Or an Xbox One S? I don't game much, but if more money gets me a gaming system then I'd do it. Open to suggestions.


----------



## noob00224

Projector Central calculator shows the highest brightness, the webproject calculator is the most accurate.

Going from 100% zoom to 0% zoom, there is a 27% light loss.

The DCI P3 filter reduces light output by 50%. It increases DCI P3 coverage from ~87% to 100% or higher.

With the filter the projector can do ~800 lumens in Medium lamp, which means ~33fL. For HDR the fL requirement depends on the tone mapper, the better the lower the requirement. 33fL is an ok value, especially since lamps dim over time.


----------



## gangrew

Received my unit. Everything checks out OK, and is working great. So far I am really impressed with this projector. Using a 133" white over black spandex screen and a HTPC at 1080p. Only watched a few movies so far, and have only made minor adjustments, but the picture is fantastic. Even lower resolution files (DVD) look very good.


----------



## jbnpaul

There is also a manual iris that you can close down if the image is too bright. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Malkey

Could anyone measure the spacing on the bottom (top when it's flipped) of the mounting locations for me? Just side to side width and length. Mine was supposed to show up today but now it says Monday  so I can't measure for myself.

I scored a Chief mount on eBay for $35. Of course the mounting plate is for something else. Rather than spend over $100 for the right one (and have to wait even longer for it) I'm ready to just buy a steel cookie sheet and bolt it to the existing plate and drill holes in the spots to mount the projector. Are we allowed to be that ghetto here? Or and I going to get yelled at? ha

I don't need precise spacing measurements, just overall so I can buy the right size pan.


----------



## BiggNewt

I tried searching for this answer but couldn't find it.

I just got a Linker for my 5040 and Xbox One X, what do I need to set the linker settings at to game in 4K/HDR?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## filipp2442

I'm using a 5040 UB with an Nvidia Shield and Kodi that has normal 4k/1080p content and some 4k HDR content. Is there one setting someone can share on the project/shield that would work well for both? Right now some normal 4k content has the whites very washed out/hard to see but looks perfect/amazing in HDR content.


----------



## blastermaster

So my current projector has crapped the bed. I'm seriously considering the 5040 as it looks solid for the price point. I currently have a 138" curved 2.35:1 screen and an anamorphic lens. I have heard that the 5040 doesn't do anamorphic stretch, but I do have an Oppo 203. Would I be good to go with this projector? I also have a gaming PC hooked up to my setup with a custom resolution for the screen, so I'm guessing if I wanted that image to fill the screen I'd have to zoom with this projector? It sucks that anamorphic stretch seems to be going extinct these days with the exception of more expensive projectors. My inexpensive Optoma HD3300 that I'm currently using has it...


----------



## john hunter

Epson PJs usually have anamorphic settings.My 6040 does and it works very well.Check out the manual on line.


----------



## skylarlove1999

john hunter said:


> Epson PJs usually have anamorphic settings.My 6040 does and it works very well.Check out the manual on line.


The pro Cinema line has anamorphic settings. the home Cinema line does not have anamorphic settings. That has always been the case with Epson projectors the more expensive line gets the anamorphic settings

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## blastermaster

skylarlove1999 said:


> The pro Cinema line has anamorphic settings. the home Cinema line does not have anamorphic settings. That has always been the case with Epson projectors the more expensive line gets the anamorphic settings
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Ok thanks. Yes, I compared the two manuals online and it appears that you are correct. I'll have to get the 6040.


----------



## skylarlove1999

blastermaster said:


> Ok thanks. Yes, I compared the two manuals online and it appears that you are correct. I'll have to get the 6040.


I believe that you can use the Oppo 203 in conjunction with a 5040 and your anamorphic lens. I apologize I can't explain exactly how it works but I remember talking to @Josh Z about this topic. He has forgotten more about home theater than I will ever know.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## vikes88

Brettmckinney said:


> Panny UHD
> HDMI/Advances settings
> HDR/Colour Gamut Output - SDR/BT2020
> Option (Remote)
> HDR Optimiser On
> DR Conversion +8
> Tone Curve (White) +4
> Tone Curve (Black) -4
> 
> Epson
> 
> Digital Cinema
> Brightness 51
> Contrast 62
> Color Saturation 52
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 9/9/9
> Color temp 4
> Skin tone 3
> Image enhancement 3
> Super resolution 6/6
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma - customised
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28, -26, 16, 32
> RGB 50/50/50 for all
> Super White off
> Iris 0
> Power medium
> Auto iris normal
> 
> Signal/Advanced
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image processing fast
> 
> Or
> Panny - output HDR BT2020
> HDR Optimiser on
> DR adjustment +1 or +2
> 
> Epson
> Digital Cinema
> Brightness 46
> Contrast 100
> Color sat 72
> Tint 50
> Color temp 4
> Skin tone 3
> Gamma - as above
> Power - high
> Singal/advanced
> Dynamic range SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk



I just picked up a 5040ub and a panasonic 420. The 5040ub is awesome in every way compared to my old epson 8345! Can anyone help with a couple of these settings:
in the 420 where do I find these?:
Option (Remote)
HDR Optimiser On
DR Conversion +8
Tone Curve (White) +4
Tone Curve (Black) -4 



Also this for the 5040ub: 

Gamma - customised 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28, -26, 16, 32
I use the remote to change the dots graph? What does this do?


Is there a way to save different settings profiles in the 5040ub?


----------



## sleepingatsea

vikes88 said:


> I just picked up a 5040ub and a panasonic 420. The 5040ub is awesome in every way compared to my old epson 8345! Can anyone help with a couple of these settings:
> in the 420 where do I find these?:
> Option (Remote)
> HDR Optimiser On
> DR Conversion +8
> Tone Curve (White) +4
> Tone Curve (Black) -4
> 
> 
> 
> Also this for the 5040ub:
> 
> Gamma - customised 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28, -26, 16, 32
> I use the remote to change the dots graph? What does this do?
> 
> 
> Is there a way to save different settings profiles in the 5040ub?


Hey! Glad you are enjoying the 5040ub, it's a great machine!
Those settings are for outputting SDRBT2020 which after my testing, gives a better image than direct HDR.

So if you set your 420 to output SDR2020, when you are playing a 4k disc press the 'option' button on the Panny remote and then you can choose those settings for HDR Optimizer/DR etc.

5040- yes, just move those dots with the remote control to set to those numbers. This is a custom gamma curve that works with those picture settings. 

Report back and let us know how you get on!

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## mraub

Last week I rented a movie on my Apple TV 4K. The picture didn't look as sharp as it usually does, so I did some checking. For reasons I don't understand, the ATV had reset the resolution from 4K SDR to 720P. Not only that, the ATV did not offer any 4K settings; the highest offered is 1080P. When connected to another 4K TV, the ATV will output 4K, which suggests to me the problem is some setting in the Epson 5040. I haven't intentionally changed anything, but did update the Epson firmware a few weeks ago. Can anyone figure out why the 5040 no longer communicates with the ATV to tell it it will accept 4K signals? I looked through the Epson manual, but found nothing helpful. It does look like I can do a reset all config and reset the projector, while preserving the settings I have stored in memory, so I may give that a try. I'd really like to figure what went wrong, so I can fix it should it recur but admit I am baffled at this point.

Thanks.


----------



## john hunter

skylarlove1999 said:


> I believe that you can use the Oppo 203 in conjunction with a 5040 and your anamorphic lens. I apologize I can't explain exactly how it works but I remember talking to @Josh Z about this topic. He has forgotten more about home theater than I will ever know.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That's correct.
That is how I used my 203 before I made the Panny UB420 my main player which does not have an anamorphic function.
Actually it's better than the 6040 PJ as it also rearranges the menu accordingly in the Scope format.
If you use the 6040, you will have the option to use either.


----------



## SDoutdoorsman

Looking for some help, I have the 5040, which as I understand can upscale to 4K? I have an older receiver which will not do 4k. Is it possible to run the HDMI from the apple tv straight to the projector and then run audio back to the receiver?


----------



## gene4ht

SDoutdoorsman said:


> Looking for some help, I have the 5040, which as I understand can upscale to 4K? I have an older receiver which will not do 4k. Is it possible to run the HDMI from the apple tv straight to the projector and then run audio back to the receiver?


If the ATV has two HDMI (Video & audio) outputs, then yes. Many disc players have this capability and accommodate the lack of 4K pass through in this way.


----------



## SDoutdoorsman

gene4ht said:


> If the ATV has two HDMI (Video & audio) outputs, then yes. Many disc players have this capability and accommodate the lack of 4K pass through in this way.


I am unfamiliar with the atv acronym, but it seems like your saying if the player device has 2 outputs i can just run one hdmi to the projector and one to the receiver and it should work then?


----------



## gene4ht

SDoutdoorsman said:


> I am unfamiliar with the atv acronym, but it seems like your saying if the player device has 2 outputs i can just run one hdmi to the projector and one to the receiver and it should work then?


ATV = Apple TV

As I don’t own an Apple TV streamer, I’m not familiar with its HDMI output config...but the answer to your question is yes if it has two outputs.


----------



## Jem87

I'm looking to get some thoughts on replacement lamps. 

Any of you ever tried the one made by KORSAE? Or do you always get OEM? 

The KORSAE one on amazon is significantly cheaper than the OEM lamps from other retailers. Is there much of a difference?


----------



## ht guy

*Settings PSA*

Just a quick note to the new 5040/6040 users that there is a settings summary here.

Always recommend calibration, but as not too many calibrators traveling right now, this will at least get you started.


----------



## marcosphoto

Hey, I've got a question that could go either on the Panasonic UB820 or these pages. 

Soooo, the 820 upconverts to 4K but can be disabled to output HD1080p of course. I was wondering, has anyone run detailed testing to determine if it was better to allow the player to upconvert to 4K and allow the 5040 to display it as is - or disable the 820 from upconverting and allow the 5040 to do the 4K upconvert?


----------



## inspector

ht guy said:


> Just a quick note to the new 5040/6040 users that there is a settings summary here.
> 
> Always recommend calibration, but as not too many calibrators traveling right now, this will at least get you started.


Thanks HT Guy for bringing that settings list up again. It sure will help some of the new owners!


----------



## john hunter

inspector said:


> Thanks HT Guy for bringing that settings list up again. It sure will help some of the new owners!


This list is pretty ancient.
Lots has happened since they were written.
Suggest you start with Brett's settings above.


----------



## inspector

All those settings are a good starting point for all the color modes.


----------



## desol007

Hey guys, I just bought a Benq ht3550. It was delivered defective, loud, dim picture, hdmi signal loss with multiple different hdmi, and eventually the projector died. I have 140 inch white matte screen, also a grey one. Dedicated theater room. My question do you think this would be a upgrade to the Ht3550 or just get another Ht3550? I also have enough material to build a 2.39 aspect ratio screen.


----------



## smith365

Well, I picked up a refurb 5040 off Epson for 1149 with the 2 year warranty. I wanted the 5050. Paying almost 1600 more killed me and I my wallet made the decision. If the 5040 dies after the 2 year warranty, the 5050 might be 1600 by then. Lol

Funny thing is that after I ordered it , my phone rang from 562-981-3840. It was Epson USA security calling asking to make sure I ordered the projector. That number seems legit as their corporate #.


----------



## Nightwing-DG

Here is a really good calibration setting by Adam for the 6040UB which is almost identical to the 5040UB. He's got different settings for SDR and HDR.

*Projector Calibration (6040UB) - Second Look*


----------



## daveas

This is more of a prepping question for the quarantine. I will also state that I am a fairly new owner of a refurb 5040ub as of December. 

Would it be a good idea to pick up an extra bulb now since the projector is starting to get some heavy use from the whole family (Currently the bulb has a couple hundred hrs)?

And then next question is with regards to bulbs, get it directly from epson, or an OEM replacement from one of the online retailers?

Cheers and stay safe.


----------



## da55id

daveas said:


> This is more of a prepping question for the quarantine. I will also state that I am a fairly new owner of a refurb 5040ub as of December.
> 
> Would it be a good idea to pick up an extra bulb now since the projector is starting to get some heavy use from the whole family (Currently the bulb has a couple hundred hrs)?
> 
> And then next question is with regards to bulbs, get it directly from epson, or an OEM replacement from one of the online retailers?
> 
> Cheers and stay safe.


You are going to need a bulb sooner or later, right? Since China manufacturing has been on the blink for >2 months, one could expect a hole in the supply of things made in china. I don't know where the epson bulbs are manufactured, but I decided two weeks ago to get an extra OEM Epson replacement bulb for the reasons you mention above.


----------



## sddp

da55id said:


> You are going to need a bulb sooner or later, right? Since China manufacturing has been on the blink for >2 months, one could expect a hole in the supply of things made in china. I don't know where the epson bulbs are manufactured, but I decided two weeks ago to get an extra OEM Epson replacement bulb for the reasons you mention above.


From what you both wrote, looks like I should get one too, what is everyone's thoughts on this:


https://www.amazon.com/YOSUN-V13H01...words=epson+5040ub+lamp&qid=1584817631&sr=8-3


----------



## marcosphoto

Malkey said:


> Hi, I'm hoping someone can check my math to set my mind at ease. I ordered the 5040ub through the refurbished deal and was just playing around with some calculators that have me thinking its going to be WAY too bright for my room. . . maybe.
> 
> I'm attaching screenshots of the numbers. Projector central said I'd be at 83 fL with my current setup. I read a post that Web Projector Calculator is more accurate so I tried that. If I put the projector all the way in the back of the room and use the Lamp Low mode it says I'll be at 36.4 fL ([email protected] hours). It seems like that would be the high end of okay, but I'm seeking reassurance. I never would have imagined I'd be in a situation with a projector that was too bright.
> 
> If you're still reading and want back story, my 10 year old Optoma HD20 finally blew it's bulb so I get to upgrade. I was pointed to the refurb deal on another thread. My home theater room is 10 feet wide and 19 feet from the back wall to the projector screen (there's another 3 feet behind the screen to accommodate a door swinging open). It's a 100" elite screens motorized screen I mounted lower than the ceiling. Front row is 10 or 11 feet, second row is 14 feet. I'll put room pics in the next post.
> 
> I did some searching throughout this thread and it got me is analysis paralysis so I just had to ask. Thanks for your help.


I am no pro by any stretch, but I have a hard time believing the projector would be too bright. Based on my pitch black room, my 1.0 gain screen and my roughly 17' from the screen I choose not to bother using HDR because of the darkness even with everything ramped up. It appears HDR darkness is a large problem for most - at least with this projector. I think you could be one of the few who may be able to use HDR and really enjoy it, or all these brightness calculators may be out to lunch in the real world. Right now I am running Cinema mode and medium bulb and SDR, and still I feel I have to go to Bright Cinema to see darker movies. 

IMO you should give it a shot and see how it all works out. If you still think it's too bright, perhaps you can buy a new screen of lower gain (It's my impression that lower gain usually means better image quality and/or contrast as well). There are some reference 0.8 and 0.9 gain screens out there. Frankly, I don't think it will be too bright, especially with all the settings to play with.


----------



## Mrkazador

Malkey said:


> Hi, I'm hoping someone can check my math to set my mind at ease. I ordered the 5040ub through the refurbished deal and was just playing around with some calculators that have me thinking its going to be WAY too bright for my room. . . maybe.
> 
> I'm attaching screenshots of the numbers. Projector central said I'd be at 83 fL with my current setup. I read a post that Web Projector Calculator is more accurate so I tried that. If I put the projector all the way in the back of the room and use the Lamp Low mode it says I'll be at 36.4 fL ([email protected] hours). It seems like that would be the high end of okay, but I'm seeking reassurance. I never would have imagined I'd be in a situation with a projector that was too bright.
> 
> If you're still reading and want back story, my 10 year old Optoma HD20 finally blew it's bulb so I get to upgrade. I was pointed to the refurb deal on another thread. My home theater room is 10 feet wide and 19 feet from the back wall to the projector screen (there's another 3 feet behind the screen to accommodate a door swinging open). It's a 100" elite screens motorized screen I mounted lower than the ceiling. Front row is 10 or 11 feet, second row is 14 feet. I'll put room pics in the next post.
> 
> I did some searching throughout this thread and it got me is analysis paralysis so I just had to ask. Thanks for your help.



I think you'll be ok. I have the 5050ub and projectorcentral estimates 93fl but in reality I'm getting 75 nits (~22fL) on a 100" screen with the cinema filter and bulb on medium.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Has anyone got some decent settings for daylight viewing?


----------



## srauly

Hello all,

I'm a [very] long time member here, but I haven't frequented this forum in a long time (until recently). My Epson 8350 started complaining a month or two ago about the bulb needing replacement. The projector's bulb had gotten noticeably dimmer over time, and I had some dust blobs. But I was also considering downsizing my house and figured that in my next house I'd probably just switch to a super-sized flat-screen TV. But then my 8350's bulb flat-out died, coronavirus hit, and I changed my plans and bought a refurb 5040UB, which arrived today.

My first impressions:
- Motorized/automated zoom/focus/lens-shift is so nice. I have a custom-made Da-Lite Hi-Power (2nd gen) 2.34:1 screen. My projector is mounted less than 2 feet above/behind my head, so I would reach back to focus/zoom/shift my 8350, which was fine, but using my remote to switch lens presets is a sweet luxury.
- Picture quality using default Cinema mode looks fantastic. Colors and detail are awesome. The brightness is awesome, too, though I don't know how much of that is because of the upgrade vs my 8350's bulb just having gotten much dimmer over time. Either way, that's great, too.

After setting up and using for a bit, some concerns:
- There's a noticeable buzzing sound. I did a search in this thread and found a few others reporting this, and some indication that this could be a defect of a small number of units. When watching a show with the audio at a normal level, the buzzing becomes less noticeable (and, I think, acceptable - though this is the first/only thing my wife has complained about), and my projector is probably a *LOT* closer to my head/ear than the average person's mounting location. But my 8350 didn't have this, so it makes me sad. Anything I can/should do about this?
- This was a refurb and I was disappointed to see it came out of the box with about 800 hours on the bulb. That seems awfully high. Is that acceptable for an Epson refurb?
- The automatic focus/zoom/shift doesn't seem to be 100% accurate. I switch presets and it's not lined up exactly where I had it set when I saved it. So I adjusted and resaved. We'll see how that goes. But for anyone like me using this with a fixed-height widescreen setup, is this normal? If so, do you just tweak it manually every time you change presets?

So, a little bit of a mixed bag so far, but overall I'm quite happy. As far as the buzzing goes, I might be able to get my wife to agree to let me move it a bit farther above/back, which would minimize that (it would involve placing it on top of our dining room buffet, so she might not go for that - if so, I can live with the buzzing, so long as it doesn't get worse).

Oh, a couple of other questions...

1) When the projector arrived, it hit me that I might not have the proper HDMI cable. I had bought an extra-long HDMI cable for my current install several years ago, so I wasn't sure if it was up-to-snuff for 4K standards. I demoed some stuff with my Apple TV, and when I go to the "Projector Info" screen, it's showing the resolution as 3840x2160, so does that mean that my current cable is fine?
2) Possibly related to that first question...The first thing that happened when I "booted up" the projector is that my Apple TV displayed a screen indicating that it wanted to test the signal for HDR compatibility. I clicked OK and the screen went blank for a minute, and then switched back to basically indicate that apparently it *wasn't* compatible with HDR. So does this indicate that my HDMI cable is too old, or something else?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## marcosphoto

srauly said:


> After setting up and using for a bit, some concerns:
> - There's a noticeable buzzing sound. I did a search in this thread and found a few others reporting this, and some indication that this could be a defect of a small number of units. When watching a show with the audio at a normal level, the buzzing becomes less noticeable (and, I think, acceptable - though this is the first/only thing my wife has complained about), and my projector is probably a *LOT* closer to my head/ear than the average person's mounting location. But my 8350 didn't have this, so it makes me sad. Anything I can/should do about this?
> - This was a refurb and I was disappointed to see it came out of the box with about 800 hours on the bulb. That seems awfully high. Is that acceptable for an Epson refurb?
> - The automatic focus/zoom/shift doesn't seem to be 100% accurate. I switch presets and it's not lined up exactly where I had it set when I saved it. So I adjusted and resaved. We'll see how that goes. But for anyone like me using this with a fixed-height widescreen setup, is this normal? If so, do you just tweak it manually every time you change presets?
> 
> 1) When the projector arrived, it hit me that I might not have the proper HDMI cable. I had bought an extra-long HDMI cable for my current install several years ago, so I wasn't sure if it was up-to-snuff for 4K standards. I demoed some stuff with my Apple TV, and when I go to the "Projector Info" screen, it's showing the resolution as 3840x2160, so does that mean that my current cable is fine?
> 2) Possibly related to that first question...The first thing that happened when I "booted up" the projector is that my Apple TV displayed a screen indicating that it wanted to test the signal for HDR compatibility. I clicked OK and the screen went blank for a minute, and then switched back to basically indicate that apparently it *wasn't* compatible with HDR. So does this indicate that my HDMI cable is too old, or something else?


I have not noticed a buzzing from mine, but I sit about 4 feet in front and below so I may miss some noises. Some people have reported/observed the IRIS noise depending on the setting of it. I would poke around or wait for a response from someone commenting on the iris settings that may address this noise which may be considered normal. I believe the setting that contributes to this is the IRIS speed normal/fast. If memory serves, the FAST setting really doesn't help and is louder, whilst the NORMAL setting performs just fine and is quieter. (Others chime in here).

I too and others have noticed the lens memory not being bang-on. My guess is that this is very normal. My guess is that there can really only be so many segments on the pickups that determine positioning. Even though we set the position through servo motor to a specific spot, it can probably only record the position in so many increments and may end up recording a position to one side or the other of the perfect position. I would imagine if the screen position were ever so slightly different in some of our setups that we would never have an issue - just a matter of CM or Inches and the lens motor design.

I have a no-name 40`cable which appears to be just fine. Cannot tell if HDMI cables are over-rated or if I just got lucky. Admittedly, I don`t think I stress it out because I am staying within the 18mbps signal which is the maximum of the 5040. I would imagine if I started messing with higher bit-rates and bandwidths I may see failures. We appear to be ok with the lower capacity of the 5040.

I only use BR disk in my theater currently, others may chime in here. But if I understand past posts about appleTV, you are very likely running into incompatibility due to the again-18mbps bandwith and the AppleTV frame-rates. Anything over 24fps HDR is incompatible with the 5040 and your AppleTV is likely using 60fps if memory serves.


----------



## marcosphoto

jjwinterberg said:


> There is a known issue with having the 4K enhancement enabled with 60 Hz input signals. Check to see if this applies in your situation. See Morty's post above.





srauly said:


> After setting up and using for a bit, some concerns:
> - There's a noticeable buzzing sound. I did a search in this thread and found a few others reporting this, and some indication that this could be a defect of a small number of units. When watching a show with the audio at a normal level, the buzzing becomes less noticeable (and, I think, acceptable - though this is the first/only thing my wife has complained about), and my projector is probably a *LOT* closer to my head/ear than the average person's mounting location. But my 8350 didn't have this, so it makes me sad. Anything I can/should do about this?


Having done a little footwork for you, I also noticed prior postings regarding noise complaints and come up with another option, noise created from 4K enhancement. There are numerous comments on the forum relating to a combination of 60Hz and 4K enhancement causing this noise, possibly from the glass vibrating to create the eShift. This again would warrant a noise condition that is likely normal, albeit disappointing to some. One poster said his did it but went away over time - although they did not mention how many hours it took. Maybe turn off the 4K enhancement and see if it goes away. However I would say that we are slowly connecting dots between your AppleTV 60Hz/fps and several of your other observations. I may be mixing up some of my info here between 60Hz or FPS, I imagine others will come onboard to start correcting me.


----------



## purduesd

Anyone have any advice on a 4k Blu ray player to pair with my 6050UB.

-4K and dolby atmos support required.

-Good smart tv interface would be a plus! If no good options here i will purchase a Apple TV4k.

-Should i rely on the projector to uscale? Or the Bluray player?


Thanks in advance!


----------



## Bandyka

The noise can be either the 4K enhancement which is the same on all brands not just the Epson, my JVC was a whole lot noisier than the Epson, however it could also be the iris which is noisiest I ever heard on any projector. Not much can be done about either unfortunately.


----------



## inspector

purduesd said:


> Anyone have any advice on a 4k Blu ray player to pair with my 6050UB.
> 
> -4K and dolby atmos support required.
> 
> -Good smart tv interface would be a plus! If no good options here i will purchase a Apple TV4k.
> 
> -Should i rely on the projector to uscale? Or the Bluray player?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!



The Panasonic 420 for the BD/4K player and the Epson does a great job of upscaling. My 6040 does an excellent job.


----------



## john hunter

inspector said:


> The Panasonic 420 for the BD/4K player and the Epson does a great job of upscaling. My 6040 does an excellent job.


Couldn't have said it better myself.
The 420 is the bargain of the year!


----------



## Daverey06

Does anyone else have a Panasonic DP-UB820 paired with an Epson 5040UB? 

I don’t know why, but I am relatively new to the 4K Blu-ray game and I can’t seem to tell the difference between Blu-ray’s and 4K Blu-ray’s on my projector. 

I know projectors don’t have the brightness that tvs do, so is 4K material wasted on a “faux K” projector like the 5040UB? I think the picture looks good, just not as different as what I was expecting. I’ve heard brightness is really important for HDR which is obviously a big limitation of projectors.


----------



## inspector

Go back some pages and get the settings for NATURAL UHD. Then go to the 420/820 thread and look at those settings. 1080 looks great, but using the 820/420, 4K HDR looks excellent.


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> Go back some pages and get the settings for NATURAL UHD. Then go to the 420/820 thread and look at those settings. 1080 looks great, but using the 820/420, 4K HDR looks excellent.


Is there someone’s settings that are called Natural UHD in both this forum and the Panasonic forum?


----------



## phillip2013

Hi All,
I've had my 5030ub since Oct.2013 and for the most part I've been happy with it, but the bulb blew-up tonight. The contrast, brightness and refurbished prices for the 5040ub look attractive, but the cost is still a lot more than $120 for a non OEM bulb. This would be my second non-OEM bulb from the same company (Pureland Supply), of which this one lasted longer than the OEM ( 2.5 years and 2200 hours on Eco as opposed to 3.5 years, 3000+ hours, I'll check when I can). That said, I'm only streaming content from Amazon, Google Play and YouTube and I'm wondering if I'll see a $1100 performance upgrade between the 5030 and 5040. I guess it's like choosing between a 5030 for $120 and a 5040 for $1200 (the Epson.com refurbished ones). Is there anything I shoud be looking at in the same price range that will make me say - WOW! This was definitely worthnot replacing the lamp - I didn't know what I was missing!
I should say that there are times when I definitely notice how dark the movie/image is, but I loathe to switch to a high brightness because of the louder sound - those are my biggest gripes.

Thank you for your thoughts!

phillip


----------



## inspector

Daverey06 said:


> Is there someone’s settings that are called Natural UHD in both this forum and the Panasonic forum?


Hi Dave,

Tomorrow I’ll try to send you my NATURAL UHD settings and my 420 settings.

Hope they help you and see how this PJ shines.

John


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> Daverey06 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there someoneâ€™️s settings that are called Natural UHD in both this forum and the Panasonic forum?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Dave,
> 
> Tomorrow Iâ€™️ll try to send you my NATURAL UHD settings and my 420 settings.
> 
> Hope they help you and see how this PJ shines.
> 
> John
Click to expand...

John, thanks very much! If you are saying you primarily use the Natural preset on the Epson though, I do have a question. Everywhere I have read that the Digital Cinema mode is the only mode worth considering when viewing HDR content. Are you of a different opinion, and if so why?


----------



## Bandyka

One needs to use Digital cinema to take full advantage of the Rec 2020/DCI color space and watch movies as intended by the mastering studios.


----------



## jbnpaul

Daverey06 said:


> Everywhere I have read that the Digital Cinema mode is the only mode worth considering when viewing HDR content. Are you of a different opinion, and if so why?


Not John. But my opinion.
Digital Cinema adds the Cinema filter and gives you better color. But you lose brightness due to the filter. I feel like I lose about half of the lumens on this mode.

I have come to the conclusion I prefer a brighter vibrant picture compared to darker but colorful picture. And since then have stuck with non filter modes. Also I don't use HDR since the image becomes even darker. 

I experimented with both HDR and non HDR modes using same content and is yet to see a movie where I liked the HDR version on this projector vs the without HDR version. I use madvr to tonemap HDR. But even after that I prefer it without the filter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

It's not "better color" its accurate color as the director intended.
This PJ so bright I am perfectly happy with the brightness watching UHD HDR in Ditigal Cinema mode on mid lamp mode.


----------



## inspector

Great, could you put out those settings for Digital?


----------



## number17

*Should I go for the 5040UB refurb?*

Hi all, 

I've been using my BenQ W1070 over the past 7 years and still am very happy with it. My setting is I have a HT room / mancave in my basement with a 100" screen, the room is light controlled but walls are light-coloured. I mostly watch sports and movies. 

Over the past few months I've been itching for a 4k projector upgrade. Afterall, most of my TVs at home have been upgraded to 4k (naturally, when the old TVs died) over the past few years, but the biggest screen in the house - the PJ screen, is still rocking HD only. I am sorta hoping for significant improvement in sports watching upgrading from a 7 yrs old entry level HD PJ (a very capable one, mind you) to a brand new 4k PJ. 

I was considering the upgrade to BenQ HT3550 (exact same throw ratio, and that i've been very happy with BenQ) but while waiting for deals on the 3550, I realized I can have a refurb Epson 5040UB for ~ the same price. (around CDN$1.5k)

Right now I'm on the fence with the 5040UB for a few reasons ... 

- $1.5k is a few hundred bucks over my original budget

- I mainly buy the 4k PJ for sports, and right now, there is no sports to watch  ... I could easily wait a few months before spending the $$ on the upgrade and not miss anything

- there aren't THAT much 4k content available to me. It's mainly the 4k contents on Netflix, and 4k sports ... and not every game and every movie is available in 4k. I can see maybe 15% of the content I actually like to watch are in 4k. I mainly stream video contents and don't see myself spending a lot of $$ on buying 4k discs 

- I am not 100% sure about paying $1.5k for a refurb product, and there is no refund for Epson Canada for refurb so the 'buy now, think later' option is not available

- A lesser point, but going from W1070 to 5040UB would mean I need to move the ceiling mount back by ~ 1 ft so I gotta do some work in patching and painting the ceiling


So, all in all I'm just looking for some feedbacks from 5040UB users, how much of an 'upgrade' is it coming from something like the W1070, and what's your experience with refurb PJ? 

Also, does 5040UB improve the motion blur for sports? I find that the motion blur is pretty significant when watching hockey on W1070, wonder if the 5040 is better for fast motion in sports

Any feedback helps!


----------



## Daverey06

Hello all. I have been getting different recommendations as to how to get the best picture out of my Epson 5040UB paired with a Panasonic DP-UB820, and I have a question. Many have said to get the best color on this projector you have to set the output to BT2020 SDR. I find this odd and when I changed it back to BT2020 HDR I found the color to look much more vibrant with the HDR output. Am I crazy? Why do people recommend SDR when it in my opinion clearly has inferior color?


----------



## inspector

Daverey06 said:


> Hello all. I have been getting different recommendations as to how to get the best picture out of my Epson 5040UB paired with a Panasonic DP-UB820, and I have a question. Many have said to get the best color on this projector you have to set the output to BT2020 SDR. I find this odd and when I changed it back to BT2020 HDR I found the color to look much more vibrant with the HDR output. Am I crazy? Why do people recommend SDR when it in my opinion clearly has inferior color?



PM sent.


----------



## lastditch

srauly said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I'm a [very] long time member here, but I haven't frequented this forum in a long time (until recently). My Epson 8350 started complaining a month or two ago about the bulb needing replacement. The projector's bulb had gotten noticeably dimmer over time, and I had some dust blobs. But I was also considering downsizing my house and figured that in my next house I'd probably just switch to a super-sized flat-screen TV. But then my 8350's bulb flat-out died, coronavirus hit, and I changed my plans and bought a refurb 5040UB, which arrived today.
> 
> My first impressions:
> - Motorized/automated zoom/focus/lens-shift is so nice. I have a custom-made Da-Lite Hi-Power (2nd gen) 2.34:1 screen. My projector is mounted less than 2 feet above/behind my head, so I would reach back to focus/zoom/shift my 8350, which was fine, but using my remote to switch lens presets is a sweet luxury.
> - Picture quality using default Cinema mode looks fantastic. Colors and detail are awesome. The brightness is awesome, too, though I don't know how much of that is because of the upgrade vs my 8350's bulb just having gotten much dimmer over time. Either way, that's great, too.
> 
> After setting up and using for a bit, some concerns:
> - There's a noticeable buzzing sound. I did a search in this thread and found a few others reporting this, and some indication that this could be a defect of a small number of units. When watching a show with the audio at a normal level, the buzzing becomes less noticeable (and, I think, acceptable - though this is the first/only thing my wife has complained about), and my projector is probably a *LOT* closer to my head/ear than the average person's mounting location. But my 8350 didn't have this, so it makes me sad. Anything I can/should do about this?
> - This was a refurb and I was disappointed to see it came out of the box with about 800 hours on the bulb. That seems awfully high. Is that acceptable for an Epson refurb?
> - The automatic focus/zoom/shift doesn't seem to be 100% accurate. I switch presets and it's not lined up exactly where I had it set when I saved it. So I adjusted and resaved. We'll see how that goes. But for anyone like me using this with a fixed-height widescreen setup, is this normal? If so, do you just tweak it manually every time you change presets?
> 
> So, a little bit of a mixed bag so far, but overall I'm quite happy. As far as the buzzing goes, I might be able to get my wife to agree to let me move it a bit farther above/back, which would minimize that (it would involve placing it on top of our dining room buffet, so she might not go for that - if so, I can live with the buzzing, so long as it doesn't get worse).
> 
> Oh, a couple of other questions...
> 
> 1) When the projector arrived, it hit me that I might not have the proper HDMI cable. I had bought an extra-long HDMI cable for my current install several years ago, so I wasn't sure if it was up-to-snuff for 4K standards. I demoed some stuff with my Apple TV, and when I go to the "Projector Info" screen, it's showing the resolution as 3840x2160, so does that mean that my current cable is fine?
> 2) Possibly related to that first question...The first thing that happened when I "booted up" the projector is that my Apple TV displayed a screen indicating that it wanted to test the signal for HDR compatibility. I clicked OK and the screen went blank for a minute, and then switched back to basically indicate that apparently it *wasn't* compatible with HDR. So does this indicate that my HDMI cable is too old, or something else?
> 
> Thanks in advance!



Lol 800 hours on the bulb? Wow they really arent even checking these now are they. You should have a fresh bulb, all three of my refurbs did.i would imagine they will probably send you a new bulbmifnyou ask, rather than ship the unit back for another. Depends on how lucky you got with your unit. I had to send out for 3, the third one is perfect cept for a pink hue at the very top right of the screen. I'll live with it for now, maybe might get a 5050 in a hear who knows.

I replaced my 8350 after trying to remove all the dust blobs and screwed it up. And yes I was blown away by the detail on 1080p alone. Cant really tell the difference between 4k and 1080p on 120 inch screen 10 feet back.


----------



## lastditch

Daverey06 said:


> Does anyone else have a Panasonic DP-UB820 paired with an Epson 5040UB?
> 
> I don’t know why, but I am relatively new to the 4K Blu-ray game and I can’t seem to tell the difference between Blu-ray’s and 4K Blu-ray’s on my projector.
> 
> I know projectors don’t have the brightness that tvs do, so is 4K material wasted on a “faux K” projector like the 5040UB? I think the picture looks good, just not as different as what I was expecting. I’ve heard brightness is really important for HDR which is obviously a big limitation of projectors.


Its not just you. A lot of us cant see a difference between 1080p and 4k, I spent hours a and b it and I couldn't. 1080p upscaled looks just as good to me. Hdr was also a waste of time after all the time messing with setti gs.


----------



## DavidinGA

jbnpaul said:


> Not John. But my opinion.
> Digital Cinema adds the Cinema filter and gives you better color. But you lose brightness due to the filter. I feel like I lose about half of the lumens on this mode.
> 
> I have come to the conclusion I prefer a brighter vibrant picture compared to darker but colorful picture. And since then have stuck with non filter modes. Also I don't use HDR since the image becomes even darker.
> 
> I experimented with both HDR and non HDR modes using same content and is yet to see a movie where I liked the HDR version on this projector vs the without HDR version. I use madvr to tonemap HDR. But even after that I prefer it without the filter.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Pretty much what I have found to be the best setup for hdr too.

The hdr modes on the pj are miserable imo. 

5040 in natural mode and medium lamp and then let madVR do its magic for dynamic tone mapping = the best HDR experience the 5040 can offer. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Daverey06

lastditch said:


> Daverey06 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone else have a Panasonic DP-UB820 paired with an Epson 5040UB?
> 
> I donâ€™️t know why, but I am relatively new to the 4K Blu-ray game and I canâ€™️t seem to tell the difference between Blu-rayâ€™️s and 4K Blu-rayâ€™️s on my projector.
> 
> I know projectors donâ€™️t have the brightness that tvs do, so is 4K material wasted on a â€œfaux Kâ€ projector like the 5040UB? I think the picture looks good, just not as different as what I was expecting. Iâ€™️ve heard brightness is really important for HDR which is obviously a big limitation of projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> Its not just you. A lot of us cant see a difference between 1080p and 4k, I spent hours a and b it and I couldn't. 1080p upscaled looks just as good to me. Hdr was also a waste of time after all the time messing with setti gs.
Click to expand...

Do you think that it’s only hard to tell the difference on a faux K projector or would it look more noticeably different on a true 4K projector? 

Also can you notice a difference between 4K and 1080p on a tv? I’ve seen 4K tvs in the store and I can tell their displays look better than my 1080p tv. 

Do you think HDR is noticeable on a tv vs a projector?

Also what do you mean by a and b it?


----------



## Daverey06

DavidinGA said:


> Pretty much what I have found to be the best setup for hdr too.
> 
> The hdr modes on the pj are miserable imo.
> 
> 5040 in natural mode and medium lamp and then let madVR do its magic for dynamic tone mapping = the best HDR experience the 5040 can offer.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I've heard about this MadVR before, but I have no idea what it is. Can you explain it? Also is it expensive to add to a home theater setup? Thanks!


----------



## failax

DavidinGA said:


> Pretty much what I have found to be the best setup for hdr too.
> 
> The hdr modes on the pj are miserable imo.
> 
> 5040 in natural mode and medium lamp and then let madVR do its magic for dynamic tone mapping = the best HDR experience the 5040 can offer.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



Have you calibrated the vpr before using MadVr?


----------



## Daverey06

jbnpaul said:


> Not John. But my opinion.
> Digital Cinema adds the Cinema filter and gives you better color. But you lose brightness due to the filter. I feel like I lose about half of the lumens on this mode.
> 
> I have come to the conclusion I prefer a brighter vibrant picture compared to darker but colorful picture. And since then have stuck with non filter modes. Also I don't use HDR since the image becomes even darker.
> 
> I experimented with both HDR and non HDR modes using same content and is yet to see a movie where I liked the HDR version on this projector vs the without HDR version. I use madvr to tonemap HDR. But even after that I prefer it without the filter.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you have a Panasonic DP-UB820 or a similar Panasonic player paired with your 5040? If so since you said that the HDR isn't great on the 5040, do you turn off HDR altogether on the player and stick to SDR BT2020? I have heard that is a better mode to use for projectors, but I'm not convinced the color is as vibrant when I compared it with the HDR mode turned on in the player settings.


----------



## DavidinGA

Daverey06 said:


> I've heard about this MadVR before, but I have no idea what it is. Can you explain it? Also is it expensive to add to a home theater setup? Thanks!


You have to have an htpc as your source first off...do you have one? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

failax said:


> Have you calibrated the vpr before using MadVr?


Sorry, what is vpr? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Daverey06

DavidinGA said:


> You have to have an htpc as your source first off...do you have one?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Sorry, but I have no idea what that is. lol

I am new to the home theater world.


----------



## DavidinGA

Daverey06 said:


> Sorry, but I have no idea what that is. lol
> 
> 
> 
> I am new to the home theater world.


It's simply a home theater dedicated pc built for playback. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jbnpaul

My experience with 5040
There isn't a noticable difference between 1080 vs 4k when a quality input is provided ( say Blu Ray) 
I believe this is because the projector upscale hd while it downscales 4k. 

If you really want to see the pixel difference try turning off 4k enhancement. I am sure you will see a difference. If you can't see the difference from your seating distance move closer ... You will definitely see it.

About native 4k vs faux I believe you will see a difference. But the question is mute ... since they are in a completely different price range.

I moved to 5040 from BenQ faux 4k. And I think the BenQ was sharper ... but Epson is in a different league altogether. The contrast, color, brightness etc. are leagues apart in Epson. And all these trumps the number of pixels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Daverey06

jbnpaul said:


> My experience with 5040
> There isn't a noticable difference between 1080 vs 4k when a quality input is provided ( say Blu Ray)
> I believe this is because the projector upscale hd while it downscales 4k.
> 
> If you really want to see the pixel difference try turning off 4k enhancement. I am sure you will see a difference. If you can't see the difference from your seating distance move closer ... You will definitely see it.
> 
> About native 4k vs faux I believe you will see a difference. But the question is mute ... since they are in a completely different price range.
> 
> I moved to 5040 from BenQ faux 4k. And I think the BenQ was sharper ... but Epson is in a different league altogether. The contrast, color, brightness etc. are leagues apart in Epson. And all these trumps the number of pixels.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you have any strong feelings then as to what mode to use when viewing HDR content? Many say you should use Digital Cinema, but that looks very dark to me. I have also read that with a projector it is better to change the output from your bluray player from HDR BT2020 to SDR BT2020 due to the lack in capabilities that a projector has. Your thoughts on that?


----------



## jbnpaul

Daverey06 said:


> Do you have a Panasonic DP-UB820 or a similar Panasonic player paired with your 5040? If so since you said that the HDR isn't great on the 5040, do you turn off HDR altogether on the player and stick to SDR BT2020? I have heard that is a better mode to use for projectors, but I'm not convinced the color is as vibrant when I compared it with the HDR mode turned on in the player settings.



I use madvr to tone map to bt2020. But don't use the Cinema filters.

Yes, I lose some color. But I gain lots of brightness.
And I liked the brighter picture in all the content I have tried so far.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jbnpaul

Daverey06 said:


> Do you have any strong feelings then as to what mode to use when viewing HDR content? Many say you should use Digital Cinema, but that looks very dark to me. I have also read that with a projector it is better to change the output from your bluray player from HDR BT2020 to SDR BT2020 due to the lack in capabilities that a projector has. Your thoughts on that?



I don't use HDR. SDR by 2020 via madvr. And I don't use Cinema filter ( my personal preference) since I prefer brighter image.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Daverey06

jbnpaul said:


> I don't use HDR. SDR by 2020 via madvr. And I don't use Cinema filter ( my personal preference) since I prefer brighter image.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you notice a difference between having HDR BT2020 on and having SDR BT2020 on? I was testing mine the other day and I thought that the colors may have appeared more vibrant with the HDR option, but perhaps I need to reexamine it.


----------



## srauly

marcosphoto said:


> I have not noticed a buzzing from mine, but I sit about 4 feet in front and below so I may miss some noises. Some people have reported/observed the IRIS noise depending on the setting of it. I would poke around or wait for a response from someone commenting on the iris settings that may address this noise which may be considered normal. I believe the setting that contributes to this is the IRIS speed normal/fast. If memory serves, the FAST setting really doesn't help and is louder, whilst the NORMAL setting performs just fine and is quieter. (Others chime in here).
> 
> I too and others have noticed the lens memory not being bang-on. My guess is that this is very normal. My guess is that there can really only be so many segments on the pickups that determine positioning. Even though we set the position through servo motor to a specific spot, it can probably only record the position in so many increments and may end up recording a position to one side or the other of the perfect position. I would imagine if the screen position were ever so slightly different in some of our setups that we would never have an issue - just a matter of CM or Inches and the lens motor design.
> 
> ...
> 
> I only use BR disk in my theater currently, others may chime in here. But if I understand past posts about appleTV, you are very likely running into incompatibility due to the again-18mbps bandwith and the AppleTV frame-rates. Anything over 24fps HDR is incompatible with the 5040 and your AppleTV is likely using 60fps if memory serves.


Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm just now getting around to posting back. So, I still have the buzzing, but we seem to be able to tune it out quickly. Having the volume cranked up helps, but even when a scene gets quiet, I find myself not noticing or being bothered by it (or maybe it stops buzzing after being on for a while? I'll have to check on that). I did try playing with the Iris settings and some other settings mentioned, but none seemed to make a difference for the buzzing I'm describing.

As for the lens zoom/focus/shift not being bang-on, that's a bummer. But it's still nice to be able to tweak it with my remote, rather than reach back and fiddle with it manually, like I had to do with my 8350. And, at some point, I may have this mounted somewhere where reaching back from my seat isn't even an option, so that would be pretty important.

As far as the Apple TV is concerned, I've had success getting HDR to work when I manually force the Apple TV into 24fps HDR mode. Not sure if I *ought* to be using HDR at all, given the lowered brightness it seems to give, so I'll have more questions on that.



lastditch said:


> Lol 800 hours on the bulb? Wow they really arent even checking these now are they. You should have a fresh bulb, all three of my refurbs did.i would imagine they will probably send you a new bulbmifnyou ask, rather than ship the unit back for another.


Thanks, I'll try contacting them about it. Any suggestions as to whether I should try calling vs emailing (and if you have a specific email or phone # to call, that would be even better). If not, no ig deal...I can call or email and see how that goes.


----------



## srauly

One other question for anyone/everyone...

So I have an Apple TV that I like to use as my primary input. I also have a TiVo and an Amazon Fire Stick 4K. I also have a Sony Blu-ray player (it's 3D but maybe not 4K...not sure, and I'm too lazy to look at this moment). I really don't want to use Blu-ray discs, even if it will give me a noticeable improvement in PQ. And I don't want an HTPC setup. I really want the convenience that streaming gives me, and most of my movie collection is iTunes (though I originally bought via Vudu, and have some movies that are only available via the Vudu app on my Apple TV 4K).

So for anyone who has this projector and an Apple TV 4K (or Amazon Fire Stick 4K) and has monkeyed around with various settings...what are the recommended settings to use?

Also FWIW, my room has light-yellow walls, so I also know that I'm giving up on super-great black levels / shadow details. Again, that's OK with me, as it's my living room and I don't want to paint my living room walls black, and I don't want to have a dedicated/separate theater room.


----------



## Chad T

srauly said:


> - The automatic focus/zoom/shift doesn't seem to be 100% accurate. I switch presets and it's not lined up exactly where I had it set when I saved it. So I adjusted and resaved. We'll see how that goes. But for anyone like me using this with a fixed-height widescreen setup, is this normal? If so, do you just tweak it manually every time you change presets?


Check out this link. That helped immensely at getting more accurate lens memories on my 5040UB. 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-140.html#post48985465


----------



## srauly

So I did a little more experimentation on my low-pitch buzzing issue. It looks like the buzzing kicks in when using 4K mode, either via setting my Apple TV to 4K, or when setting my Apple TV to 1080, but then using 4K enhancement on the 5040. But it seems to "quiet down" after the content starts playing for a bit (or maybe I'm imagining that).



Chad T said:


> Check out this link. That helped immensely at getting more accurate lens memories on my 5040UB.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-140.html#post48985465


Thanks! I'll take a closer look.


----------



## failax

DavidinGA said:


> Sorry, what is vpr?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Your Projector.


----------



## DavidinGA

failax said:


> Your Projector.


Ok.

I just did a basic calibration of the 5040 before jumping into madvr. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## failax

DavidinGA said:


> Ok.
> 
> I just did a basic calibration of the 5040 before jumping into madvr.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I tried to use MadVr without calibration (and without inserting in the software the relative 3D LUT) and results were not so impressive.


----------



## DavidinGA

failax said:


> I tried to use MadVr without calibration (and without inserting in the software the relative 3D LUT) and results were not so impressive.


You must have something set up incorrectly. Most users do not use a calibration file, myself included. You might jump over to the madvr support thread and give them a rundown on your settings to fix your settings.


----------



## marcosphoto

srauly said:


> So I did a little more experimentation on my low-pitch buzzing issue. It looks like the buzzing kicks in when using 4K mode, either via setting my Apple TV to 4K, or when setting my Apple TV to 1080, but then using 4K enhancement on the 5040. But it seems to "quiet down" after the content starts playing for a bit (or maybe I'm imagining that).
> 
> Thanks! I'll take a closer look.



Seems to me then the noise is pretty much confirmed, that would have to be the pixel-shifting occurring for the faux 4K. Mine always has enhancement turned on, and since most of my media is DVD or BR disk its always active. Funny that I've never really noticed it, must be because it's just far enough back that the movie covers it up.


----------



## DavAbq

*Help with throw*

It seems all of the throw calculators, even in the 5040 instructions deal with 16x9 and even 4x3 but not 2.35, so if you can give me an answer I would really be grateful.
Got the 5040 refurb for the same reasons everyone else did. Want to run it at 2.35 and am not concerned with any other aspect ratio. Would like to use the Amazon STR-235138-WAB Silver Ticket 2.35:1 screen which is about 144” diagonal, 138” wide. My room is 16’ wide by 27’ long and will be very light controlled (dark).
So after all this, finally the question: for these conditions, how far back from the screen should the 5040 be, and how high above the center of the screen can I go with its mount?My understanding is that there is a preferred ideal distance and limit on height. 
Sorry for not being able to grab this myself. My first projector and it seems very foreign to me.


----------



## noob00224

DavAbq said:


> It seems all of the throw calculators, even in the 5040 instructions deal with 16x9 and even 4x3 but not 2.35, so if you can give me an answer I would really be grateful.
> Got the 5040 refurb for the same reasons everyone else did. Want to run it at 2.35 and am not concerned with any other aspect ratio. Would like to use the Amazon STR-235138-WAB Silver Ticket 2.35:1 screen which is about 144” diagonal, 138” wide. My room is 16’ wide by 27’ long and will be very light controlled (dark).
> So after all this, finally the question: for these conditions, how far back from the screen should the 5040 be, and how high above the center of the screen can I go with its mount?My understanding is that there is a preferred ideal distance and limit on height.
> Sorry for not being able to grab this myself. My first projector and it seems very foreign to me.


The 5040UB does not have a 2.35:1 mode. It still projects a 16:9 image. What you have is a 2.35:1 picture that fits in the 16:9. With black bars on top and bottom.
The width of the screen is the same, so you can use it for calculations.

A custom format can be created in the calculator:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

http://screen-size.info/
https://www.draperinc.com/projectionscreens/customsizecalculator.aspx


----------



## DavAbq

noob00224 said:


> The 5040UB does not have a 2.35:1 mode. It still projects a 16:9 image. What you have is a 2.35:1 picture that fits in the 16:9. With black bars on top and bottom.
> The width of the screen is the same, so you can use it for calculations.
> 
> A custom format can be created in the calculator:
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> http://screen-size.info/
> https://www.draperinc.com/projectionscreens/customsizecalculator.aspx


Thank you!
What I came up with from your formula referral is a 2.35 142” diagonal screen has the same width as a 150” 16x9, about 138”. The 150” screen, and therefore the 142” screen both require about 19’11” throw.


----------



## b_scott

noob00224 said:


> The 5040UB does not have a 2.35:1 mode. It still projects a 16:9 image. What you have is a 2.35:1 picture that fits in the 16:9. With black bars on top and bottom.
> The width of the screen is the same, so you can use it for calculations.
> 
> A custom format can be created in the calculator:
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> http://screen-size.info/
> https://www.draperinc.com/projectionscreens/customsizecalculator.aspx


I thought the 5040 was usable for Constant Image Height since it has lens memory? Meaning that 2.35 images just get wider and 1.33 images get smaller, but it's still the same height. Is that incorrect? Seems like that was what I read.


----------



## noob00224

b_scott said:


> I thought the 5040 was usable for Constant Image Height since it has lens memory? Meaning that 2.35 images just get wider and 1.33 images get smaller, but it's still the same height. Is that incorrect? Seems like that was what I read.


The projector outputs only in 16:9 format.

Starts at 18:18. There is a jump scare a few minutes in, be warned:


----------



## jdbarnes63

b_scott said:


> I thought the 5040 was usable for Constant Image Height since it has lens memory? Meaning that 2.35 images just get wider and 1.33 images get smaller, but it's still the same height. Is that incorrect? Seems like that was what I read.


For you 2:35 screen, the projector still throws the same image onto your screen. You will just expand the image to fill the screen and the black bars on top and bottom will spill over the screen but are not seen since they are black. Most screens have 3-4" of velvet around the edges so you will never see the transition from image to black bars. Set the memory and your done. For 16 x 9 images, just reduce the zoom down to fill the screen from top to bottom, you will have black borders on the left and right on the screen material unless you use some velvet panels for masking. In a light controlled room I have never noticed it enough to use panels.

A 158" scope screen is close to a 126" 16X9 image:


----------



## b_scott

thanks all! I think I get it now. The projector only throws 16:9 so everything else is just black bars basically that you have to mask somehow, or you might not even need to if your room is dark enough. Seems like black velvet around the screen is a good idea.


----------



## srauly

FWIW, I just bought a 5040 to replace my 8350. My screen is a 116" wide x 49.5" high 2.34:1 screen. So, this 2.34:1 screen's diagonal area is about 126", but you don't really see 2.34:1 screen's diagonal measurements quoted, so that may just confuse. My screen is actually a 16:9 133" screen that was custom-made to black out some parts on the top and bottom, to form that 2.34:1 screen area inside. When I watch 16:9 programming, I zoom/shift/focus the lens so that the image is shrunk down (zoomed in) and I end up with a common screen height of 49.5". In 16:9 mode the area to the left/right of the image ends up being large white portions of my 2.34:1 screen, but I never notice it.

Being able to do what I just described requires a projector with a significantly wide zoom range, and most likely some decent lens shift capability. My prior projector (Epson 8350) had that, too, but it lacked the 5040's ability to control those things remotely (and save to memory settings). I had to do that zoom/shift/focus manually, so I feel spoiled now.


----------



## marcosphoto

srauly said:


> Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm just now getting around to posting back. So, I still have the buzzing, but we seem to be able to tune it out quickly. Having the volume cranked up helps, but even when a scene gets quiet, I find myself not noticing or being bothered by it (or maybe it stops buzzing after being on for a while? I'll have to check on that). I did try playing with the Iris settings and some other settings mentioned, but none seemed to make a difference for the buzzing I'm describing.



I finally noticed the hard drive noise on mine last night. I suppose it could be getting louder but I think it was only because I was messing around with settings trying to address some problems I've been having so there was no soundtrack playing to cover it up. I can confirm that it is pretty noticeable during some conditions but ultimately I've never really had a problem with it. I gather what I heard was iris noise because at one time I had the 4K off to investigate other issues. I could really hear it jumping from menu to menu. If that's the worst fault it has, I can certainly live with it.


----------



## marcosphoto

Folks, I could really use your input. I'm pretty decent with tech but I'm a bit stumped. There are 3 things that are very much annoying me and I'm not experienced enough to figure it out still after 1 year of ownership:

1) I've been noticing when playing a DVD (specifically WS, not sure about FS) that is an older title like Airplane, The Golden Child and even Top Gun - the player/projector combo play what appears to be a widescreen image but a small one in the middle of the screen with black letter box all around. I have now learned this is very likely to do with the fact that these DVD's were non-anamorphic and I've found many people are complaining of this phenomenon with newer devices. There is no setting on either component that I can use to correct the issue. I've experimented with the resolution output on the player and there is no aspect control on it. I've looked into the PJ settings but there is nothing that I can find that does anything. This was never a problem with my OppoDVD or Panasonic PJ, I recall sometimes where there was a rare issue like this I could just hit the aspect on the PJ to zoom and it was perfect. Aspect always greyed out on the Epson, only get normal. Currently I had to create a lens adjustment setting to handle this issue, but I don't like having to move the lens every time.

2) A second part to question 1 - why the h*&$ does the PJ aspect function not work? I have not ever had it once allow me to change it - either using DVD, BR, Netflix out of the BR player. Could it be a problem somehow with the DP-UB820 or would it be a problem with the 5040UB PJ? I've looked in the owners manual for settings that may cause that setting to be inactive but I cannot find reference to it. Or maybe I can't read english?

3) Is there a forum topic here or web site outside that discuses stuff like Nits? I never really understood the topic and why knowing the values has any effect on what we are able to do on our end. So last night I watched the TopGun BR which I wasn't really happy with at all, and I wanted to compare it to my DVD which I have not watched for a very long time. Surprisingly the DVD was worse, but also had the issue from question 1 above which spurred these questions. I digress. I found the movies both very dark compared to others and often find a great variance in brightness between movies in any media which makes me go change the picture mode. Would knowing how many Nits it is make any real difference or would it simply explain why the movie is displaying very dark?


----------



## noob00224

marcosphoto said:


> Folks, I could really use your input. I'm pretty decent with tech but I'm a bit stumped. There are 3 things that are very much annoying me and I'm not experienced enough to figure it out still after 1 year of ownership:
> 
> 1) I've been noticing when playing a DVD (specifically WS, not sure about FS) that is an older title like Airplane, The Golden Child and even Top Gun - the player/projector combo play what appears to be a WS image but a small one in the middle of the screen. There is no setting on either component that I can use to correct the issue. I've experimented with the resolution output on the player and there is no aspect control on it. I've looked into the PJ settings but there is nothing that I can find that does anything. This was never a problem with my OppoDVD or Panasonic PJ, I recall sometimes where there was a rare issue like this I could just hit the aspect on the PJ to zoom and it was perfect. Aspect always greyed out on the Epson, only get normal. Currently I had to create a lens adjustment setting to handle this issue, but I don't like having to move the lens every time.
> 
> 2) A second part to question 1 - why the h*&$ does the PJ aspect function not work? I have not ever had it once allow me to change it - either using DVD, BR, Netflix out of the BR player. Could it be a problem somehow with the DP-UB820 or would it be a problem with the 5040UB PJ? I've looked in the owners manual for settings that may cause that setting to be inactive but I cannot find reference to it. Or maybe I can't read english?
> 
> 3) Is there a forum topic here or web site outside that discuses stuff like Nits? I never really understood the topic and why knowing the values has any effect on what we are able to do on our end. So last night I watched the TopGun BR which I wasn't really happy with at all, and I wanted to compare it to my DVD which I have not watched for a very long time. Surprisingly the DVD was worse, but also had the issue from question 1 above which spurred these questions. I digress. I found the movies both very dark compared to others and often find a great variance in brightness between movies in any media which makes me go change the picture mode. Would knowing how many Nits it is make any real difference or would it simply explain why the movie is displaying very dark?


Not sure what you mean by WS or FS.

Regarding nits, if other titles are bright enough this should not be the issue. Use this calculator to estimate the projector's brightness, and will give an fL value.
10-15fL is recommended for SDR.
https://webprojectorcalculator.com/

The projector and other equipment needs to have it's color space set correctly.

Then the Brightness and Contrast settings set. Brightness sets the lower limit (black), and Contrast sets the upper limit (white), so that it matches with the movie. You can use this disc or another calibration disc:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...48496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

Movies even in SDR can be darker or brighter than they should be. In that case you can adjust the Brightness level.
For instance on my setup the black level is poor so I lower the Brightness until it begins to visibly crush blacks. It's not just an issue of incorrect black levels from the source, but the black level of the unit (not a 5040UB).

This video is also available on the disc:


----------



## Archaea

@marcosphoto

Regarding lens memory save being perfect. Theres a trick to it. You can’t go back and forth a click or 2 for perfect adjustment. IIRC its something like 5 or 10 clicks that it will ignore if you go back and forth before saving.

But if you only focus in one direction and them back and save it there it will save correctly.

IE mess your focus up by going 12 clicks out only one way. Then bring it back into focus by going only back. (don’t go back and forth to finesse perfect - only move focus in one direction before save.). The memory works that way. I didn’t discover this. Some one else did, but it works for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## roland6465

To answer your first question, way back before 16:9 TVs were the norm, DVDs were all framed for 4:3 aspect ratio. Once plasmas came into more houses, DVDs moved to "anamorphic", or "enhanced for widescreen." What you're seeing is a 4:3 image with bars on the top and bottom, and not wide enough to reach the sides of your screen. If you want to fill the screen, you have to zoom the image, but the image quality will suffer.


Hope that made sense...


----------



## marcosphoto

noob00224 said:


> Not sure what you mean by WS or FS.
> 
> Regarding nits, if other titles are bright enough this should not be the issue. Use this calculator to estimate the projector's brightness, and will give an fL value.
> 10-15fL is recommended for SDR.
> https://webprojectorcalculator.com/
> 
> The projector and other equipment needs to have it's color space set correctly.
> 
> Then the Brightness and Contrast settings set. Brightness sets the lower limit (black), and Contrast sets the upper limit (white), so that it matches with the movie. You can use this disc or another calibration disc:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...48496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html
> 
> Movies even in SDR can be darker or brighter than they should be. In that case you can adjust the Brightness level.
> For instance on my setup the black level is poor so I lower the Brightness until it begins to visibly crush blacks. It's not just an issue of incorrect black levels from the source, but the black level of the unit (not a 5040UB).
> 
> This video is also available on the disc:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWohqcoDj8Y



I appreciate your response, WS meaning widescreen. I have changed my post to reflect new information I learned which I have already seen responses on this thread that confirm what I found. The problem appears to be non-anamorphic films which is a widespread issue not only for me. However in the past I could just hit the "zoom" button on either my OppoDVD player or Panasonic PJ - but the Panasonic DP-UB820 does not have an aspect button and the Epson 5040UB aspect setting does not work for reasons I am still trying to find. 

I appreciate your help on the brightness info, I will investigate further. However because of the inconsistency of the condition I am resistant to changing all the settings every time I encounter a movie that seems dark. If it were all movies I'd say I have a horrible set-up, but it's probably only 15-20% of movies that I find I have to switch from Cinema to Bright Cinema and crank the power to medium. Otherwise I have no problems staying on ECO and Cinema in my pitch black room and projector around 16'.


----------



## marcosphoto

Archaea said:


> @*marcosphoto*
> 
> Regarding lens memory save being perfect. Theres a trick to it. You can’t go back and forth a click or 2 for perfect adjustment. IIRC its something like 5 or 10 clicks that it will ignore if you go back and forth before saving.
> 
> But if you only focus in one direction and them back and save it there it will save correctly.
> 
> IE mess your focus up by going 12 clicks out only one way. Then bring it back into focus by going only back. (don’t go back and forth to finesse perfect - only move focus in one direction before save.). The memory works that way. I didn’t discover this. Some one else did, but it works for me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks for your response, I am aware of the lens shift characteristics with the PJ. However lens shift inaccuracies are not my problem but currently my solution - which I am trying to address by finding out why the aspect control in the PJ (zoom in this case) does not ever function. It is eternally greyed out, has never worked since I bought it.


----------



## marcosphoto

roland6465 said:


> To answer your first question, way back before 16:9 TVs were the norm, DVDs were all framed for 4:3 aspect ratio. Once plasmas came into more houses, DVDs moved to "anamorphic", or "enhanced for widescreen." What you're seeing is a 4:3 image with bars on the top and bottom, and not wide enough to reach the sides of your screen. If you want to fill the screen, you have to zoom the image, but the image quality will suffer. Hope that made sense...


You are bang-on with your response, which I've learned with some more research online after writing my post. (I have since re-written the post to reflect the new information). I would say it definitely is related to non-anamorphic titles since it only seems to occur with old movies. I'm also thinking now in hind-sight, it may only be occurring on DVD titles that ask you to select widescreen or fullscreen! (Still have to verify this). My real concern is not the phenomenon of why, but how do i fix it? In the past I could just hit the "zoom" button on either my OppoDVD player or Panasonic PJ - but the Panasonic DP-UB820 does not have an aspect button and the Epson 5040UB aspect setting does not work for reasons I am still trying to find. Currently my only solution is to use lens shift which very annoying to me and extra wear and tear on the lens motor that should not be necessary if I could get the zoom function to work on the PJ. I would rather have a PQ decline rather than use binoculars to watch the movie!


----------



## vikes88

Brettmckinney said:


> Panny UHD
> HDMI/Advances settings
> HDR/Colour Gamut Output - SDR/BT2020
> Option (Remote)
> HDR Optimiser On
> DR Conversion +8
> Tone Curve (White) +4
> Tone Curve (Black) -4
> 
> Epson
> 
> Digital Cinema
> Brightness 51
> Contrast 62
> Color Saturation 52
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 9/9/9
> Color temp 4
> Skin tone 3
> Image enhancement 3
> Super resolution 6/6
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma - customised
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28, -26, 16, 32
> RGB 50/50/50 for all
> Super White off
> Iris 0
> Power medium
> Auto iris normal
> 
> Signal/Advanced
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image processing fast
> 
> Or
> Panny - output HDR BT2020
> HDR Optimiser on
> DR adjustment +1 or +2
> 
> Epson
> Digital Cinema
> Brightness 46
> Contrast 100
> Color sat 72
> Tint 50
> Color temp 4
> Skin tone 3
> Gamma - as above
> Power - high
> Singal/advanced
> Dynamic range SDR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk



Ok, after a month of using my 5040ub on top a popcorn machine (the room is under construction), I finally mounted and tried to dial this thing in more. I used these settings and they do look good on the 4k disk I was using but it was hard to see some of the differences in the settings from a 4k source. However, I preferred some similar settings to these on bright cinema color mode when watching a 1080p show (Altered Carbon) on Netflix.


Does anyone have any suggestions for bright cinema settings for 1080p conent?


----------



## Uther

I tried posting this in the found deals section, but got no response. This is probably the better place anyway. Can any of you confirm if my understanding of the 5040 limitations is correct?


1) The power supply issues seem to have been resolved with the refurb units?

2) If I plan to watch streaming via Apple TV, I can still get HDR from Netflix, Prime Video, etc. by setting ATV to match “dynamic range” since this should keep FPS at 24/30?

3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?

4) Gaming in HDR is possible, but only at 30 FPS? More a future proof question as the kids still have a basic Xbox One. 

I was considering the 5050, but there doesn’t seem to be much difference with the 5040 besides the HDMI bandwidth issue and some tweaks to then 4Ke algorithm. If true, it is awfully hard to justify the huge jump in price to the 5050. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## vikes88

Uther said:


> I tried posting this in the found deals section, but got no response. This is probably the better place anyway. Can any of you confirm if my understanding of the 5040 limitations is correct?
> 
> 
> 1) The power supply issues seem to have been resolved with the refurb units?
> 
> 2) If I plan to watch streaming via Apple TV, I can still get HDR from Netflix, Prime Video, etc. by setting ATV to match “dynamic range” since this should keep FPS at 24/30?
> 
> 3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?
> 
> 4) Gaming in HDR is possible, but only at 30 FPS? More a future proof question as the kids still have a basic Xbox One.
> 
> I was considering the 5050, but there doesn’t seem to be much difference with the 5040 besides the HDMI bandwidth issue and some tweaks to then 4Ke algorithm. If true, it is awfully hard to justify the huge jump in price to the 5050.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Here is some help and an opinion as I just bought a refurb one a month ago.



2) If I plan to watch streaming via Apple TV, I can still get HDR from Netflix, Prime Video, etc. by setting ATV to match “dynamic range” since this should keep FPS at 24/30?


I don't have Apple tv but everywhere I researched says yes this is correct. I actually don't have the bandwith to stream 4k anyway so you might consider that. 



3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?


I do have a panasonic 420 and yes there are no issues.


My opinion: I just researched this thing and I wanted answers to all of the reliability questions and the HDR questions. I don't know what kind of projector you are coming from but I would now choose the refurb 5040 I got even if it didn't do HDR at all. The price was such that it allowed me to justify to my wife to try the upgrade and when we got it even she was blown away. It does such a great job with 1080p content in terms of detail, sharpness, uniformity, brightness, and black levels. Also there are so many customizable settings and lens adjustments, as witnessed by the hundreds of posts on here about them. It's hard to imagine wanting more in terms of settings. Sure, it would be nice mentally to know that the chip was true 4k and that all HDR source would just work at whatever frame rate, but I imagine you would have to pay more than double to significantly beat this thing. I originally viewed my purchase as a hold over for 2 years or so until one of the mid ranged jvc 4k units fell into a more stomachable price range but I now think this will probably hold me over for 5 years or so. The only thing I could say negatively would be that it would be super annoying to have to send a unit back. Mine actually had a pixel issue for a few days but we are living in coronaworld so there was no way I was sending it back right now. Strange enough, the issue has been gone for weeks and my fingers are crossed. I guess that is the only risk I would view is that you might have to return a unit and get another, but that's part of buying a refurb unit at a deep discount I guess.


----------



## Uther

vikes88 said:


> Here is some help and an opinion as I just bought a refurb one a month ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 2) If I plan to watch streaming via Apple TV, I can still get HDR from Netflix, Prime Video, etc. by setting ATV to match “dynamic range” since this should keep FPS at 24/30?
> 
> 
> I don't have Apple tv but everywhere I researched says yes this is correct. I actually don't have the bandwith to stream 4k anyway so you might consider that.
> 
> 
> 
> 3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?
> 
> 
> I do have a panasonic 420 and yes there are no issues.
> 
> 
> My opinion: I just researched this thing and I wanted answers to all of the reliability questions and the HDR questions. I don't know what kind of projector you are coming from but I would now choose the refurb 5040 I got even if it didn't do HDR at all. The price was such that it allowed me to justify to my wife to try the upgrade and when we got it even she was blown away. It does such a great job with 1080p content in terms of detail, sharpness, uniformity, brightness, and black levels. Also there are so many customizable settings and lens adjustments, as witnessed by the hundreds of posts on here about them. It's hard to imagine wanting more in terms of settings. Sure, it would be nice mentally to know that the chip was true 4k and that all HDR source would just work at whatever frame rate, but I imagine you would have to pay more than double to significantly beat this thing. I originally viewed my purchase as a hold over for 2 years or so until one of the mid ranged jvc 4k units fell into a more stomachable price range but I now think this will probably hold me over for 5 years or so. The only thing I could say negatively would be that it would be super annoying to have to send a unit back. Mine actually had a pixel issue for a few days but we are living in coronaworld so there was no way I was sending it back right now. Strange enough, the issue has been gone for weeks and my fingers are crossed. I guess that is the only risk I would view is that you might have to return a unit and get another, but that's part of buying a refurb unit at a deep discount I guess.



Thanks for the feedback. I am considering this a holdover too, especially at this price. I’m coming from a 12 year old Panasonic AE3000 that finally has a dying bulb, so I’m sure it is a huge upgrade. If I can watch 4K UHD in HDR and stream 4K HDR (no bandwidth issue here) while keeping my scope screen setup, then I am happy. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Edgar_in_Indy

I have a 5040ub on the way to replace my Panasonic PT-AE8000u, and I'm trying to figure out if I should hold onto my 3d glasses. Does anybody know if the Sony PS3 3D glasses will work with the 5040ub? Here's a link to what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-3-3D-Glasses/dp/B00562O8U0

I tried to research the question, but it's been hard to find good information.

Thanks!


----------



## b_scott

5040ube on the way! I’m excited


----------



## miketyler

I am thinking on buying the 5040 if refurbs become available again. I just noticed that Projector Central listed the 5040 as end of life in 3/2020. I might consider the 5040UBe if the 5040 doesn't become available again. I do have a few questions that some of you seasoned guys can comment on so here they are:




I'm brand-loyal to Epson and have been running the Pro Cinema 9500UB for some time. Some comments I've read report that 4k on the 5040 isn't much better than 1080p was on their old projector. The 5040 has got rave reviews for "best bang for the buck" but I tend to value comments from every day users more than market professionals. Is this a broad consensus on picture quality? Maybe varies by content and source equipment?



 I have a built-in media rack and am running long 25ft+ active HDMI cables. To avoid incompatibility issues and possibly pulling new cables is the wireless interface on the 5040UBe a good workaround? We've all seen where some newer devices don't handshake well on older cables and can produce issues. How solid is the wireless HDMI interface?
 


 This goes to my first question about media type but I'll ask it anyway. I do little streaming and most all of my content is 1080p Bluray discs. Is there an appreciable improvement in picture quality for native 1080p content upconverted to 5040's 4K enhanced?
 

I appreciate your taking the time to read this and welcome your advice



Mike


----------



## noob00224

@miketyler

It's nuanced. 
It depends on the size of the screen, screen fabric, visual acuity, distance to screen, what that individual is used to, quality of the source, environment/room of the setup. 


A 1080p disc + 4K Enhancement will not offer that big of an increase vs. the same disc on 1080p mode. On the same projector. 
But even at 1080p the 5040UB will look better then your old 1080p projector.

If the 1080p disc is upscaled by a good upscaler (like madvr) and the signal sent is 4K, there will also be some improvement.


A 4K UHD disc on the 5040UB will result in a more increased improvement. 

The resolution that the video was shot as is also relevant. Most movies are shot in 2K, with ~80 titles shot in 4K. There is a difference if the setup allows it. 


However, I know some will disagree, but resolution is not the most important aspect of the image, contrast and black level are. 



Another aspect is HDR, which is usually released in 4K, but not always. HDR is graded/looks different from SDR. Some grading is better, others not so good. The HDR signal also has to go through a tone mapper, which the 5040UB's and many other projectors is not good.

If most of your viewing is done via disc, a HTPC with madvr will be a great addition. However, streaming is becoming more ubiquitous, especially these days. HTPC with madvr can't do streaming. Some users use the UB series from Panasonic, which can do tone mapping, but it's not close to what madvr. It is said to be better then the 5050UB's tone mapping, but that does not say much.

Additionally, there is also the 10GB bandwidth limitation of the 5040UB, that you can read about.


----------



## jidelite

Edgar_in_Indy said:


> I have a 5040ub on the way to replace my Panasonic PT-AE8000u, and I'm trying to figure out if I should hold onto my 3d glasses. Does anybody know if the Sony PS3 3D glasses will work with the 5040ub? Here's a link to what I have:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-3-3D-Glasses/dp/B00562O8U0
> 
> I tried to research the question, but it's been hard to find good information.
> 
> Thanks!


Kept mine from my old Sony HW55e but they do not work with the 5040ub.

jidelite


----------



## b_scott

looking to build an AT screen for my 5040.

Going to do 2.39 ratio

My eye level is at 50" off the ground with my seats. I have 80" to work with floor to ceiling. The 5040 has 2.1x zoom max.

so I'm looking at 50" tall by 119.5" wide.

Spandex World is currently closed for new orders due to COVID. Not sure what to do. All Carl's cloth is bought up. I orderd some blackout material from Joann Fabrics as a stopgap in case I can't do a proper screen for awhile.

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

edit: ended up ordering some milliskin spandex black and white sheets.


----------



## vikes88

Uther said:


> I tried posting this in the found deals section, but got no response. This is probably the better place anyway. Can any of you confirm if my understanding of the 5040 limitations is correct?
> 
> 
> 1) The power supply issues seem to have been resolved with the refurb units?
> 
> 2) If I plan to watch streaming via Apple TV, I can still get HDR from Netflix, Prime Video, etc. by setting ATV to match “dynamic range” since this should keep FPS at 24/30?
> 
> 3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?
> 
> 4) Gaming in HDR is possible, but only at 30 FPS? More a future proof question as the kids still have a basic Xbox One.
> 
> I was considering the 5050, but there doesn’t seem to be much difference with the 5040 besides the HDMI bandwidth issue and some tweaks to then 4Ke algorithm. If true, it is awfully hard to justify the huge jump in price to the 5050.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





Uther said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I am considering this a holdover too, especially at this price. I’m coming from a 12 year old Panasonic AE3000 that finally has a dying bulb, so I’m sure it is a huge upgrade. If I can watch 4K UHD in HDR and stream 4K HDR (no bandwidth issue here) while keeping my scope screen setup, then I am happy.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Uther, Check out this review: This guy adds some nice technicality to what i was saying about the 1080p sources and compares it to two other projectors (that are actually more expensive compared to the refurb). He also has some good basic insight to a few of the settings. 



https://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-5040ub-review.htm


----------



## b_scott

does anyone run the 5040 behind a glass? Mine will be behind a wall but I was just going to build a box that opened to the room. I'd kinda rather just create a small square glass for it to project through. But not if it's going to harm the image quality.


----------



## b_scott

this is at 128" on the dirtiest crappiest concrete wall ever, with a green line up the wall. Still looks pretty amazing.

edit: I don't know why they show vertically. they were taken horizontally and uploaded that way. Sorry.


----------



## ryudoadema

b_scott said:


> this is at 128" on the dirtiest crappiest concrete wall ever, with a green line up the wall. Still looks pretty amazing.
> 
> edit: I don't know why they show vertically. they were taken horizontally and uploaded that way. Sorry.


Why not just move the image a foot left off of the green stripe? Should just be able to use lens shift unless you're already maxing it out.


----------



## b_scott

ryudoadema said:


> b_scott said:
> 
> 
> 
> this is at 128" on the dirtiest crappiest concrete wall ever, with a green line up the wall. Still looks pretty amazing.
> 
> edit: I don't know why they show vertically. they were taken horizontally and uploaded that way. Sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just move the image a foot left off of the green stripe? Should just be able to use lens shift unless you're already maxing it out.
Click to expand...

Oh I’m remodeling the basement. And building a screen. This was just me throwing it up judging space.


----------



## WynsWrld98

b_scott said:


> does anyone run the 5040 behind a glass? Mine will be behind a wall but I was just going to build a box that opened to the room. I'd kinda rather just create a small square glass for it to project through. But not if it's going to harm the image quality.


I've done it before with a different projector bought high end quality glass and notice no change in image quality.


----------



## b_scott

WynsWrld98 said:


> b_scott said:
> 
> 
> 
> does anyone run the 5040 behind a glass? Mine will be behind a wall but I was just going to build a box that opened to the room. I'd kinda rather just create a small square glass for it to project through. But not if it's going to harm the image quality.
> 
> 
> 
> I've done it before with a different projector bought high end quality glass and notice no change in image quality.
Click to expand...

Thanks!


----------



## b_scott

Quick white spray paint and black border just to test image. Looks great.


----------



## marcosphoto

Uther said:


> I tried posting this in the found deals section, but got no response. This is probably the better place anyway. Can any of you confirm if my understanding of the 5040 limitations is correct?
> 
> 1) The power supply issues seem to have been resolved with the refurb units?
> 
> 3) There are no issues playing UHD HDR blu rays from a dedicated blu ray player in HDR?
> 
> I was considering the 5050, but there doesn’t seem to be much difference with the 5040 besides the HDMI bandwidth issue and some tweaks to then 4Ke algorithm. If true, it is awfully hard to justify the huge jump in price to the 5050. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your questions are the same that many of us ask. As for 2 & 4 I have no comments, use mainly BR disk. I searched long and hard to get answers before buying mine brand new.


1) I have it on questionable authority that around mid 2018ish, Epson finally made some changes regarding the power supply issues. Not sure if it was a hardware change or firmware fix - and ultimately I'm not 100% the source was truthful. What I did notice however, is that around that time there were far less complaints about power supply failures. Those complaints that did exist, seemed to come from units that were purchased before that point. (I put out an experiment on this forum asking people to respond on if they had power supply failures and if so - when the bought them. 2 replies only, not sure if that means they are reliable or if nobody could be bothered). It is worth mention that there remained some post date purchase complaints on failure, but it appeared to me that if anything it was refurb units. Presumably, QC on refurbs is really low, and the issue in those particular units may not have been addressed during refurb or perhaps a fluke? I would love to comment but I only have a few hundred hours on mine. The real question is, was the unit you're looking to buy actually produced after the production change date (if there is in fact one) or was it stuck in the back of a warehouse for a year or so? Mine was a brand new unit and had the latest firmware at the time, so I think I am safe. 

Epson has no transparency in the product, and their tech support is extremely weak - make for a very frustrating ownership of a very expensive product. I had been told by a dealer that they prefer not to sell Epson for the same reasons, and because they resist addressing serious issues with the product but rather ride it out until the next model. That's pretty scary when you're refusing to sell maybe the most popular and affordable PJ on the market. I gave up calling their support line and resort to this site for any questions, it's like pulling teeth with them. Not sure I'd buy another, but I'll hold judgement until then. Until now, between all the sources I have directed my questions - I've managed to be quite happy with mine.

3) Only problem is the dark picture with HDR as you've already heard. I can playback 4K Ultra no problems, but the dark picture eliminates any satisfaction I could have had. I'm no pro set-up guy, seems some people have managed to make it look good. I find that it's so dark that the colours are muted also which makes it a waste of my time. The settings suggested by Dreamliner a while back for SDR2020 are just fine to my eyes. 

) Difference between 5040 and 5050, from what I can tell you are correct. But I consider the bandwidth thing to be a big deal. I think there may actually be some HDR brightness improvement also, don't remember where I read that. Not sure if it's mapping or actual hardware improvement. I've actually wondered if I should have held out for the 5050 at times, although mine was on sale it was not a refurb so the price was still pretty high. I feel the extra bandwidth would have really helped setup and PQ concerns, although beware that some other components involved in your system may also have the bandwidth bottleneck. I am finding out now that some AVR's do as well - even though the spec is hidden away in fine print or no print at all.


----------



## vikes88

*Contrast?*

So I ran a Spears and Munsil calibration disk on two different players and here is what I got:


Digital Cinema Bright Cinema

Brightness 52 48 

Contrast 35 32

Color 48 46

Tint 50 50


When I look at other peoples settings almost everyone has a contrast listed of 50 or above, some have 70 and 100? After running the disk I do see more detail in the dark scenes, but I don't understand. I do have a very dark room. Probably a new bulb, and I think my screen has a gain of 1. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## DavidinGA

vikes88 said:


> So I ran a Spears and Munsil calibration disk on two different players and here is what I got:
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema Bright Cinema
> 
> Brightness 52  48
> 
> Contrast 35 32
> 
> Color 48 46
> 
> Tint 50 50
> 
> 
> When I look at other peoples settings almost everyone has a contrast listed of 50 or above, some have 70 and 100? After running the disk I do see more detail in the dark scenes, but I don't understand. I do have a very dark room. Probably a new bulb, and I think my screen has a gain of 1. Anyone have any ideas?


I'd have to go look, but I'm pretty sure my contrast is in the 30's too.
I'm in natural mode for my settings. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Xavier3

vikes88 said:


> So I ran a Spears and Munsil calibration disk on two different players and here is what I got:
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema Bright Cinema
> 
> Brightness 52 48
> 
> Contrast 35 32
> 
> Color 48 46
> 
> Tint 50 50
> 
> 
> When I look at other peoples settings almost everyone has a contrast listed of 50 or above, some have 70 and 100? After running the disk I do see more detail in the dark scenes, but I don't understand. I do have a very dark room. Probably a new bulb, and I think my screen has a gain of 1. Anyone have any ideas?


Some more info might be needed for how you tested though...for example, was this in HDR or SDR? BT2020 or 709 colour space, what resolution? etc.

Using a setting like HarperVision 4k requires the contrast to be near 100, Because of the way its taking the HDR signal from source and bypassing the projectors tone-mapping.


----------



## b_scott

I've noticed that my lens memory doesn't take me back to the exact location. It's usually off by a little. Is this normal? I'll be masking top/bottom and sides with black velvet so not a gigantic deal but just checking.


----------



## impetigo

Edgar_in_Indy said:


> Does anybody know if the Sony PS3 3D glasses will work with the 5040ub? Here's a link to what I have:
> 
> I tried to research the question, but it's been hard to find good information.
> 
> Thanks!


The PS3 3D glasses do in fact work just fine with the 5040UB, but IME they are so damn uncomfortable that I sold all mine after a few uses. They are nice in that they cover the sides well and the top surface as well, just too harsh on my nose bridge. The Epson glasses are good and my personal favorite are the brand that used to sell on Amazon until about a year or so ago when they stopped (probably they sold out of their remaining stock and there was no incentive to keep manufacturing and selling them). Value View I think it was. For me, they were more comfortable, fit over my glasses, and had less cross talk than the Epsons.



b_scott said:


> I've noticed that my lens memory doesn't take me back to the exact location. It's usually off by a little. Is this normal? I'll be masking top/bottom and sides with black velvet so not a gigantic deal but just checking.


Like others have mentioned before, it's not super precise but if you set it up the right way it will be pretty consistent. The "trick" is to have it click some number of times (I like to do 10+) in one direction at a time (vertical vs horizontal) but not to overshoot and then shift backwards. Then you do the other dimension (vert or horiz) and then save the setting. For me, it works much better since I learned the trick and I've been very happy with lens shift memory.


----------



## b_scott

impetigo said:


> Like others have mentioned before, it's not super precise but if you set it up the right way it will be pretty consistent. The "trick" is to have it click some number of times (I like to do 10+) in one direction at a time (vertical vs horizontal) but not to overshoot and then shift backwards. Then you do the other dimension (vert or horiz) and then save the setting. For me, it works much better since I learned the trick and I've been very happy with lens shift memory.


Thanks! So it actually records my movements and not just the zoom/focus/shift?


----------



## avtoronto

vikes88 said:


> So I ran a Spears and Munsil calibration disk on two different players and here is what I got:
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema Bright Cinema
> 
> Brightness 52 48
> 
> Contrast 35 32
> 
> Color 48 46
> 
> Tint 50 50
> 
> 
> When I look at other peoples settings almost everyone has a contrast listed of 50 or above, some have 70 and 100? After running the disk I do see more detail in the dark scenes, but I don't understand. I do have a very dark room. Probably a new bulb, and I think my screen has a gain of 1. Anyone have any ideas?


Are you using the S&M HD or UHD disc? If the latter, their guidance is you won’t need to adjust contrast in most cases on a UHD display. If you’re using the HD disc, you can’t adjust your settings for HDR REC2020 with it so no point using Digital Cinema. Bright Cinema is designed to be used for SDR content when viewed in higher ambient light conditions.


----------



## jidelite

impetigo said:


> The PS3 3D glasses do in fact work just fine with the 5040UB...


Interesting, if you got your PS3 3D glasses to work please let me know the trick. Those PS3 glasses are IR and the Epson uses RF and I just could not get mine to sync - and I just tried again yesterday.

jidelite


----------



## Bandyka

avtoronto said:


> Are you using the S&M HD or UHD disc? If the latter, their guidance is you won’t need to adjust contrast in most cases on a UHD display. If you’re using the HD disc, you can’t adjust your settings for HDR REC2020 with it so no point using Digital Cinema. Bright Cinema is designed to be used for SDR content when viewed in higher ambient light conditions.


If the PJ is calibrated right and the ambient conditions are ideal contrast and brightness should not be adjusted at all. Maximum +- 1 click if that.


----------



## impetigo

b_scott said:


> Thanks! So it actually records my movements and not just the zoom/focus/shift?


I'm no expert but I believe it remembers the actual incremental shifts but gets confused/imprecise when it moves in the opposite direction, so you never want to overshoot and then start moving it back in the opposite direction. So, only shift in one direction in the vertical axis and one direction in the horizontal axis. 

So, when I set it up for the first time (or after I touch the projector because that screws everything up) I shift it way down and left (at least 20 clicks left and 20 clicks down), and then start the process of shifting to the correct position. First I start shifting right (but not overshooting, rather stopping right at the spot I want it at) and then shift it up (also, not overshooting), then save it to lens memory. I find it to be pretty precise when set up that way. I do shift regularly to go between 2.35:1, 1.85:1 and 16x9.



jidelite said:


> Interesting, if you got your PS3 3D glasses to work please let me know the trick. Those PS3 glasses are IR and the Epson uses RF and I just could not get mine to sync - and I just tried again yesterday.
> 
> jidelite


Hmm, I may be wrong then and it may have been my Panasonic PT-AE8000U that I had previous to the 5040UB that I used my PS3 3D glasses with. If so, sorry for the misinformation! I found the nose pads to be wholly insufficient though and really uncomfortable to use, but YMMV.


----------



## b_scott

impetigo said:


> I'm no expert but I believe it remembers the actual incremental shifts but gets confused/imprecise when it moves in the opposite direction, so you never want to overshoot and then start moving it back in the opposite direction. So, only shift in one direction in the vertical axis and one direction in the horizontal axis.
> 
> So, when I set it up for the first time (or after I touch the projector because that screws everything up) I shift it way down and left (at least 20 clicks left and 20 clicks down), and then start the process of shifting to the correct position. First I start shifting right (but not overshooting, rather stopping right at the spot I want it at) and then shift it up (also, not overshooting), then save it to lens memory. I find it to be pretty precise when set up that way. I do shift regularly to go between 2.35:1, 1.85:1 and 16x9.


Thanks! I'll give that a shot.


----------



## sddp

*YOSUN V13H010L89 Projector Lamp Bulb for Epson*

Opinions on this?



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GYRKLCB/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=AMGHNC6DDNZ28&psc=1



https://www.purelandsupply.com/epso...HoYxKxaWgEXVsaUFRydUObPBNylnHx9caAkFxEALw_wcB


----------



## impetigo

b_scott said:


> Thanks! I'll give that a shot.


Sure thing! And in case I wasn't clear before, when setting the lens shift memory you want to do all the shifting with individual clicks, not holding down to shift faster. It's a pain but it works test that way.


----------



## miketyler

miketyler said:


> I am thinking on buying the 5040 if refurbs become available again. I just noticed that Projector Central listed the 5040 as end of life in 3/2020. I might consider the 5040UBe if the 5040 doesn't become available again. I do have a few questions that some of you seasoned guys can comment on so here they are:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm brand-loyal to Epson and have been running the Pro Cinema 9500UB for some time. Some comments I've read report that 4k on the 5040 isn't much better than 1080p was on their old projector. The 5040 has got rave reviews for "best bang for the buck" but I tend to value comments from every day users more than market professionals. Is this a broad consensus on picture quality? Maybe varies by content and source equipment?
> 
> 
> 
> I have a built-in media rack and am running long 25ft+ active HDMI cables. To avoid incompatibility issues and possibly pulling new cables is the wireless interface on the 5040UBe a good workaround? We've all seen where some newer devices don't handshake well on older cables and can produce issues. How solid is the wireless HDMI interface?
> 
> 
> 
> This goes to my first question about media type but I'll ask it anyway. I do little streaming and most all of my content is 1080p Bluray discs. Is there an appreciable improvement in picture quality for native 1080p content upconverted to 5040's 4K enhanced?



@noob00224 - Thanks for the response. The 5040 is back in stock on the Epson refurb page so I'm probably going to pull the trigger on it or the 5040UBe. While I love my 9700 I'm moving up from 2009 technology. The higher lumens, enhanced 4K and improved contrast and black levels will surely be a significant improvement over what I have.


----------



## Uther

I just can’t seem to pull the trigger on this. The 10 Gbps limit and HDR issues just keep tugging at the back of my brain. I’m afraid I’ll just be in a constant fiddling, work around, and “what if” nightmare.

Grrr....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

Uther said:


> I just can’t seem to pull the trigger on this. The 10 Gbps limit and HDR issues just keep tugging at the back of my brain. I’m afraid I’ll just be in a constant fiddling, work around, and “what if” nightmare.
> 
> Grrr....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's fair, I certainly spent a LOT of time fiddling. While I really wish this could do HDR60 , I've determined that SDR is where things are at for projectors without spending money crazy amounts of money. And this thing ROCKS at 1080p or 4k SDR2020. 
If you are happy watching that content then I dont think you can find better value for $. 



Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Sauwill

I just bought the Epson 6040ub at safeandsound. I spent the extra for the 6040 just for the black color and 3 year warranty. Just mounted it the other day and have not set it up yet. Theater is still under construction but getting close!


----------



## Uther

Brettmckinney said:


> That's fair, I certainly spent a LOT of time fiddling. While I really wish this could do HDR60 , I've determined that SDR is where things are at for projectors without spending money crazy amounts of money. And this thing ROCKS at 1080p or 4k SDR2020.
> If you are happy watching that content then I dont think you can find better value for $.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk



So, how does 4K SDR2020 work on this projector for streaming content? I get it with the Panny UB420/820 (of course, you are locked into that UHD player too, if I understand correctly). 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

Yeah if you have the panny player you then have that working for streaming also however outside of that , your options will depend on your streaming source. 
I was using my PS4 Pro in 4k HDR (off) and it looked great in 4k SDR.
I just got a Shield TV and haven't tinkered to see if I can do SDR2020 or not yet. 
Streaming is where things get tricky! Different apps work differently on different players and output different etc, a nightmare really. 


Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

Brettmckinney said:


> Yeah if you have the panny player you then have that working for streaming also however outside of that , your options will depend on your streaming source.
> I was using my PS4 Pro in 4k HDR (off) and it looked great in 4k SDR.
> I just got a Shield TV and haven't tinkered to see if I can do SDR2020 or not yet.
> Streaming is where things get tricky! Different apps work differently on different players and output different etc, a nightmare really.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk



That’s where I keep leaning because streaming is only going to become more prevalent. The 5050 is starting to look more attractive as I research more. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

If using a blue ray player 4k than both will give you the best signal 12bit 4.2.2 hdr24hz for movies.(note on the 5050 edit needs to be normal). It is when you stream you run into problems with HDR and get 8bit hdr 4.2.0. or sometimes no hdr 4k with 709 color space. However with 5050 (edit set to expanded) i can do 4.4/4 or 4.2.2. at 24 or 59... hz 12bit hdr. Also having owned the 5040 for 3 plus years i get as good of a picture just streaming as i did with the panny 900 optimizer and 5040. This is not meant to take away from the greatness of the 5040,but the real question would be do you wont to flick a remote or change a disk. Hope this helps.


----------



## Uther

covsound1 said:


> If using a blue ray player 4k than both will give you the best signal 12bit 4.2.2 hdr24hz for movies.(note on the 5050 edit needs to be normal). It is when you stream you run into problems with HDR and get 8bit hdr 4.2.0. or sometimes no hdr 4k with 709 color space. However with 5050 (edit set to expanded) i can do 4.4/4 or 4.2.2. at 24 or 59... hz 12bit hdr. Also having owned the 5040 for 3 plus years i get as good of a picture just streaming as i did with the panny 900 optimizer and 5040. This is not meant to take away from the greatness of the 5040,but the real question would be do you wont to flick a remote or change a disk. Hope this helps.



Like many, I do both. I stream content and watch discs. I buy the discs of movies I like, but stream any of a number of thins that are only offered via streaming.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## failax

DavidinGA said:


> You must have something set up incorrectly. Most users do not use a calibration file, myself included. You might jump over to the madvr support thread and give them a rundown on your settings to fix your settings.


Under calibration setting, you put "This display is already calibrated" and under you put calibrated to the following gamut "Bt2020"?


----------



## DavidinGA

failax said:


> Under calibration setting, you put "This display is already calibrated" and under you put calibrated to the following gamut "Bt2020"?


Yes

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## failax

DavidinGA said:


> Yes


It happens to you that in projector information it appears Rec709, even if you have chosen BT2020 on Madvr?


----------



## AdAstrum

Personally I don't think the premium for the 5050 is worth it over the screaming deal of the 5040 refurbs.

I'm streaming very successfully with a 5040 and an Apple TV 4K... the one fuss item is I have one HDR and one SDR calibration, so I need to use the projector remote to load my HDR display profile to watch HDR content with the color filter. Since maybe only 10% of what I watch is HDR, it's not a big deal to manually switch profiles, although of course it would be nice if I didn't have to.

ATV4K does not require setting any changes to go between SDR and HDR... you can set it to match its output to the content's original frame rate and color depth, works great. 

I haven't run into issues with the 10 Gbps link because almost all HDR content is still 24p, which is below the limit. Amazon Prime and iTunes Movies work great in HDR 24p. (I don't pay for 4k/HDR Netflix so can't confirm that app works in those resolutions.)

The only reason I would want more bandwidth is if I wanted to play video games at 4k/HDR/60fps, which is above the limit. I have a PS4 (non-pro) and 1080/HDR/60fps works and looks great. 

I can barely tell difference between 1080 and 4k inputs for my fairly normal viewing angle.... The extra $1400 just doesn't seem worth it to have faux k for the small subset of 60 fps HDR content unless you're a hardcore gamer.




Uther said:


> So, how does 4K SDR2020 work on this projector for streaming content? I get it with the Panny UB420/820 (of course, you are locked into that UHD player too, if I understand correctly).
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

AdAstrum said:


> Personally I don't think the premium for the 5050 is worth it over the screaming deal of the 5040 refurbs.
> 
> I'm streaming very successfully with a 5040 and an Apple TV 4K... the one fuss item is I have one HDR and one SDR calibration, so I need to use the projector remote to load my HDR display profile to watch HDR content with the color filter. Since maybe only 10% of what I watch is HDR, it's not a big deal to manually switch profiles, although of course it would be nice if I didn't have to.
> 
> ATV4K does not require setting any changes to go between SDR and HDR... you can set it to match its output to the content's original frame rate and color depth, works great.
> 
> I haven't run into issues with the 10 Gbps link because almost all HDR content is still 24p, which is below the limit. Amazon Prime and iTunes Movies work great in HDR 24p. (I don't pay for 4k/HDR Netflix so can't confirm that app works in those resolutions.)
> 
> The only reason I would want more bandwidth is if I wanted to play video games at 4k/HDR/60fps, which is above the limit. I have a PS4 (non-pro) and 1080/HDR/60fps works and looks great.
> 
> I can barely tell difference between 1080 and 4k inputs for my fairly normal viewing angle.... The extra $1400 just doesn't seem worth it to have faux k for the small subset of 60 fps HDR content unless you're a hardcore gamer.



Your insight is encouraging. I do have my other ATVs set to “match” on my 4K TVs, so I’m familiar with how to do that. What do you have your default video output set to? Do you still have to fool with the SDR2020 trick on the projector?

I need something that just works so the kids and wife can use it without having to fiddle with this or that, but I really want working HDR as I think there is more benefit in it than just mere 4K. 

Re: your SDR vs HDR profile setting, I think you would run into the same issue with a 5050 or any other projector on which you watch SDR and HDR. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdAstrum

Uther said:


> Your insight is encouraging. I do have my other ATVs set to “match” on my 4K TVs, so I’m familiar with how to do that. What do you have your default video output set to? Do you still have to fool with the SDR2020 trick on the projector?
> 
> I need something that just works so the kids and wife can use it without having to fiddle with this or that, but I really want working HDR as I think there is more benefit in it than just mere 4K.
> 
> Re: your SDR vs HDR profile setting, I think you would run into the same issue with a 5050 or any other projector on which you watch SDR and HDR.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I started with the default set to 4k/60/SDR for smooth GUI.... it does cause the projector to go blank for ~2 sec to re-sync video when starting to watch anything that isn't 60/SDR (so pretty much anything). You'll notice that TVs do the blanking too but usually recover faster. 

Lately I'm experimenting with 4k/24/SDR default, which avoids that video blanking for 90% of content so makes switching in and out of SDR TV shows more seamless. The GUI is choppier but it isn't a huge deal unless you spend all day scrolling around in the menus. So far I think I like it this way. Note that I don't think the 5050 wouldn't solve this problem, I think it's just an issue inherent to content being at 24 and GUIs being better at 60+

I don't try for SDR2020... I let HDR sources be HDR and it feeds the projector REC2020 and I use the Digital Cinema mode on that content for the wider gamut. I think if you set the AppleTV to always be SDR (ie, not match dynamic range) it would do the downsampling in software (unless it requests a separately mastered SDR stream from the server?)... and probably look pretty good, although maybe not as good as the Panny players.

Honestly.... if the wife and kids aren't super picky, forgetting to switch from my SDR to my HDR profile when watching HDR content doesn't make it unwatchable to me. The color balance changes a little, but the human brain is very good at adjusting. I'll deliberately try it this evening and will report back. (And yep, as you mention I think the 5050 still makes you manually switch profiles as well, so no salvation there. Both projectors know the color space they are being fed, I really wish they had programmed them to auto switch, there is no technical limitation... sigh).

What are you using right now? I think what it is easy to loose sight of in this long thread is that most content out there is in 24 SDR, and it looks *great* on these. And the stuff that is in 24 HDR looks great too.... the colors are very pretty, it's just not going to have crazy bright highlights that are currently being used to market OLEDs. For me, the immersive screen size and value make it a worthwhile tradeoff. It's pretty dang hard to beat for satisfaction for the refurb price, I'm 6 months in and still glad I went for it.


----------



## Uther

AdAstrum said:


> I started with the default set to 4k/60/SDR for smooth GUI.... it does cause the projector to go blank for ~2 sec to re-sync video when starting to watch anything that isn't 60/SDR (so pretty much anything). You'll notice that TVs do the blanking too but usually recover faster.
> 
> Lately I'm experimenting with 4k/24/SDR default, which avoids that video blanking for 90% of content so makes switching in and out of SDR TV shows more seamless. The GUI is choppier but it isn't a huge deal unless you spend all day scrolling around in the menus. So far I think I like it this way. Note that I don't think the 5050 wouldn't solve this problem, I think it's just an issue inherent to content being at 24 and GUIs being better at 60+
> 
> I don't try for SDR2020... I let HDR sources be HDR and it feeds the projector REC2020 and I use the Digital Cinema mode on that content for the wider gamut. I think if you set the AppleTV to always be SDR (ie, not match dynamic range) it would do the downsampling in software (unless it requests a separately mastered SDR stream from the server?)... and probably look pretty good, although maybe not as good as the Panny players.
> 
> Honestly.... if the wife and kids aren't super picky, forgetting to switch from my SDR to my HDR profile when watching HDR content doesn't make it unwatchable to me. The color balance changes a little, but the human brain is very good at adjusting. I'll deliberately try it this evening and will report back. (And yep, as you mention I think the 5050 still makes you manually switch profiles as well, so no salvation there. Both projectors know the color space they are being fed, I really wish they had programmed them to auto switch, there is no technical limitation... sigh).
> 
> What are you using right now? I think what it is easy to loose sight of in this long thread is that most content out there is in 24 SDR, and it looks *great* on these. And the stuff that is in 24 HDR looks great too.... the colors are very pretty, it's just not going to have crazy bright highlights that are currently being used to market OLEDs. For me, the immersive screen size and value make it a worthwhile tradeoff. It's pretty dang hard to beat for satisfaction for the refurb price, I'm 6 months in and still glad I went for it.



I’m coming from a 12 year old Panasonic AE3000, so even with the 5040 being introduced in 2016, it is still 8 years farther along the technology path. I’m sure the 5040 is a huge improvement, I just don’t want to have to upgrade again soon, although maybe I should really make this a stop-gap until true 4K is in the $3K range.

I have to have a motorized lens for my CIH setup and none of the DLPs offer it. Be it the 5040 or 5050, it is really the only projector that fits my setup. I refuse to spend $5K or more for any electronic device as they all become throw away in a few years time. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdAstrum

I agree on avoiding steep depreciation curves. That's the beauty of the 5040... The 5050 is not 2x the projector as the 5040... it's maybe 10-15% better? 

Everyone has a different utility and novelty function. I prob will keep this until it dies, and would probably still be happy with it if that were 12 years from now. Then again my last projector was a 1990 Barco Graphics 1200 CRT. =)

The 2 year depreciation on any projector above $2k will pay outright for a 5040... so even if you do want to upgrade to true 4k in a few years (and have the angular screen size to resolve the difference, it makes more sense to treat this as the stopgap that it is and then go that route... laser light sources will also probably make the highlight issue better in future generations and lamps may no longer need to be replaced.




Uther said:


> I’m coming from a 12 year old Panasonic AE3000, so even with the 5040 being introduced in 2016, it is still 8 years farther along the technology path. I’m sure the 5040 is a huge improvement, I just don’t want to have to upgrade again soon, although maybe I should really make this a stop-gap until true 4K is in the $3K range.
> 
> I have to have a motorized lens for my CIH setup and none of the DLPs offer it. Be it the 5040 or 5050, it is really the only projector that fits my setup. I refuse to spend $5K or more for any electronic device as they all become throw away in a few years time.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Uther said:


> I’m coming from a 12 year old Panasonic AE3000, so even with the 5040 being introduced in 2016, it is still 8 years farther along the technology path. I’m sure the 5040 is a huge improvement, I just don’t want to have to upgrade again soon, although maybe I should really make this a stop-gap until true 4K is in the $3K range.
> 
> I have to have a motorized lens for my CIH setup and none of the DLPs offer it. Be it the 5040 or 5050, it is really the only projector that fits my setup. I refuse to spend $5K or more for any electronic device as they all become throw away in a few years time.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





AdAstrum said:


> I agree on avoiding steep depreciation curves. That's the beauty of the 5040... The 5050 is not 2x the projector as the 5040... it's maybe 10-15% better?
> 
> Everyone has a different utility and novelty function. I prob will keep this until it dies, and would probably still be happy with it if that were 12 years from now. Then again my last projector was a 1990 Barco Graphics 1200 CRT. =)
> 
> The 2 year depreciation on any projector above $2k will pay outright for a 5040... so even if you do want to upgrade to true 4k in a few years (and have the angular screen size to resolve the difference, it makes more sense to treat this as the stopgap that it is and then go that route... laser light sources will also probably make the highlight issue better in future generations and lamps may no longer need to be replaced.


Agree 100%...I no longer chase the holy grail of projection perfection as my 5040 and previous AE3000 served me well. The ROI for electronics has long been recognized as a loosing proposition. The value and cost for a few technology improvements no longer has value for me...my $$$ are better utilized elseware.


----------



## DavidinGA

AdAstrum said:


> I agree on avoiding steep depreciation curves. That's the beauty of the 5040... The 5050 is not 2x the projector as the 5040... it's maybe 10-15% better?
> 
> Everyone has a different utility and novelty function. I prob will keep this until it dies, and would probably still be happy with it if that were 12 years from now. Then again my last projector was a 1990 Barco Graphics 1200 CRT. =)
> 
> The 2 year depreciation on any projector above $2k will pay outright for a 5040... so even if you do want to upgrade to true 4k in a few years (and have the angular screen size to resolve the difference, it makes more sense to treat this as the stopgap that it is and then go that route... laser light sources will also probably make the highlight issue better in future generations and lamps may no longer need to be replaced.


Right. The refurb 5040 is such an amazing price it has to have had a series hit on 5050 sales when you have to shell out so much for so little in the way of any real upgrade for the money. Sure if you must absolutely have the newer hdmi chipset then it might make sense, but otherwise, that's a lot of money for almost nothing else in return for the money...

Personally, I have zero need for the newer chipset and I run my 5040 with madVR so I can already produce an HDR image that puts the newer 5050 hdr features to shame.

Pay 2.5X more for stuff I don't need/want in the 5050? No thanks. Maybe when Epson finally comes out with a native 4k pj I'll be more persuaded to spend the money, but right now it's definitely not worth the cost for the miniscule upgrade the 5050 offers...


----------



## Uther

gene4ht said:


> Agree 100%...I no longer chase the holy grail of projection perfection as my 5040 and previous AE3000 served me well. The ROI for electronics has long been recognized as a loosing proposition. The value and cost for a few technology improvements no longer has value for me...my $$$ are better utilized elseware.



Agreed. Sometimes it is easy to go down the rabbit hole and you forget that some of the “major” differences discussed here are people picking nits (literally and figuratively ). 

Good point, Ad, on laser as well. I looked into some of those options as part of researching this, but could not find anything that worked in CIH. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

One other question, do you use an HDMI splitter? If so, recommendations? I need to be able to output simultaneously to the projector and my receiver. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

gene4ht said:


> Agree 100%...I no longer chase the holy grail of projection perfection as my 5040 and previous AE3000 served me well. The ROI for electronics has long been recognized as a loosing proposition. The value and cost for a few technology improvements no longer has value for me...my $$$ are better utilized elseware.


Yep, I arrived at the same conclusion the Epson is just perfectly fine and is unbeatable value for what it offers. Having owned many many PJ and the last one being the best of the best the JVC X9500 I'd lie if I said I don't miss the contrast but apart from that I couldn't be happier.


----------



## AdAstrum

Uther said:


> One other question, do you use an HDMI splitter? If so, recommendations? I need to be able to output simultaneously to the projector and my receiver.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't use a splitter but use an HDMI switch/audio extractor to feed my old DD 5.1 receiver with TOSLINK. I tried a few cheap ones on Amazon and liked ViewHD best, it does what it claims and carries the HDR, HDCP 2.0 handshake, and HDMI-CEC without issues. I don't think it does Audio Return Channel though. If I were in the market for a splitter I'd start with them.


----------



## AdAstrum

AdAstrum said:


> I don't use a splitter but use an HDMI switch/audio extractor to feed my old DD 5.1 receiver with TOSLINK. I tried a few cheap ones on Amazon and liked ViewHD best, it does what it claims and carries the HDR, HDCP 2.0 handshake, and HDMI-CEC without issues. I don't think it does Audio Return Channel though. If I were in the market for a splitter I'd start with them.


Sorry I meant HDCP 2.2.


----------



## Uther

AdAstrum said:


> I don't use a splitter but use an HDMI switch/audio extractor to feed my old DD 5.1 receiver with TOSLINK. I tried a few cheap ones on Amazon and liked ViewHD best, it does what it claims and carries the HDR, HDCP 2.0 handshake, and HDMI-CEC without issues. I don't think it does Audio Return Channel though. If I were in the market for a splitter I'd start with them.



Yea, the problem I run into is finding one that outputs 7.1, even pass through, via HDMI. I don’t think optical can pass Dolby True HD or DTS Master. Of course, I upgraded my AVR right before Atmos and 4K hit 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AdAstrum

Uther said:


> Yea, the problem I run into is finding one that outputs 7.1, even pass through, via HDMI. I don’t think optical can pass Dolby True HD or DTS Master. Of course, I upgraded my AVR right before Atmos and 4K hit
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You might try this one set to the alternate mode where it passes the EDID of the device connected to Out1: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Split...child=1&keywords=UHD1X2&qid=1586811479&sr=8-1

It's silent on whether it passes the HDMI audio unmolested, but I think that's a good sign since it would take extra processing to mess with it.

Can always return to Amazon if it doesn't work.


----------



## cowbodude99

Hi there,
I am looking at the 6040ub, but had a question I’m not sure how to get from the manual. 

I have a JVC 4K eShift PJ. When I turn on eShift, there is noticeable stutter on all source material. 

When it is off it looks great. 

Does the 6040 suffer from the same effects?

I use MadVr, and the composition is not showing 23.976, which looks like the PJ’s issue. 

If anyone can help, I would appreciate it.


----------



## b_scott

do many people here use the blanking feature, especially on 16x9 screens for 2.35/2.4 content?


----------



## Bandyka

cowbodude99 said:


> Hi there,
> I am looking at the 6040ub, but had a question I’m not sure how to get from the manual.
> 
> I have a JVC 4K eShift PJ. When I turn on eShift, there is noticeable stutter on all source material.
> 
> When it is off it looks great.
> 
> Does the 6040 suffer from the same effects?
> 
> I use MadVr, and the composition is not showing 23.976, which looks like the PJ’s issue.
> 
> If anyone can help, I would appreciate it.


If you have stutter there is something wrong there shouldn't be on the JVC. What JVC do you have? Perhaps if its and early model what you are seeing is the lack of frame interpolation in 4K mode meaning no motion smoothing...


----------



## Uther

b_scott said:


> do many people here use the blanking feature, especially on 16x9 screens for 2.35/2.4 content?



I got the impression that the blanking feature was just for slight edge adjustments. When I set mine up last night, I used a combination of zoom and lens shift to get the 2.4 image situated where I wanted. I thought the same thing as you because my old Panny 3000 allowed you to zoom, then move the image within the gram without having to mess with lens shift. I’d be curious to hear if you find something different. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

Has anyone noticed grain in this projector? Kids got to pick the first movie last night, so we watched Transformers Age of Extinction Blu-Ray and I noticed a ton of grain/mosquito noise whenever there was a shot of blue sky or a large gray swath, like fog. Is this normal or do I just not have something setup correctly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

Has anyone noticed grain in this projector? Kids got to pick the first movie last night, so we watched Transformers Age of Extinction Blu-Ray and I noticed a ton of grain/mosquito noise whenever there was a shot of blue sky or a large gray swath, like fog. Is this normal, do I just not have something setup correctly, or is on other ENT in the movie? Other scenes looked great. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

Has anyone noticed grain in this projector? Kids got to pick the first movie last night, so we watched Transformers Age of Extinction Blu-Ray and I noticed a ton of grain/mosquito noise whenever there was a shot of blue sky or a large gray swath, like fog. Is this normal, do I just not have something setup correctly, or is it in the movie? Other scenes looked great. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Xavier3

Its actually a very clean and honest projector in my experience. Whatever is in the source is what you will see.


I would suggest turning sharpness and edge enhancement type settings down a bit though. The processing to digitally enhance the picture always leads to some ugly side effects like a noisy image.

I have had DLP PJs in the past and one of them was maligned as having too much image noise. Once I dialed down or disabled all the 'enhancement' settings, even it had a pristine picture and no excessive noise to my eyes.


----------



## Uther

I will try to play with the settings some more and try a few more movies. As I said, it was strange that it only seemed to show in certain predominantly sky scenes, while other scenes were pristine. It wasn’t just me though, even my 6 year old noticed the “sparkly” background. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Uther said:


> I will try to play with the settings some more and try a few more movies. As I said, it was strange that it only seemed to show in certain predominantly sky scenes, while other scenes were pristine. It wasn’t just me though, even my 6 year old noticed the “sparkly” background.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Does it happen with one movie or others? It could be from the source.


----------



## Uther

noob00224 said:


> Does it happen with one movie or others? It could be from the source.



That’s what I’m hoping. This is only night 2, so I’m with you in that I want to try a few more movies first. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

Uther said:


> I got the impression that the blanking feature was just for slight edge adjustments. When I set mine up last night, I used a combination of zoom and lens shift to get the 2.4 image situated where I wanted. I thought the same thing as you because my old Panny 3000 allowed you to zoom, then move the image within the gram without having to mess with lens shift. I’d be curious to hear if you find something different.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think you're right



Uther said:


> Has anyone noticed grain in this projector? Kids got to pick the first movie last night, so we watched Transformers Age of Extinction Blu-Ray and I noticed a ton of grain/mosquito noise whenever there was a shot of blue sky or a large gray swath, like fog. Is this normal or do I just not have something setup correctly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I noticed some weird swirling in spots, and I believe it ended up being particles in the air from the HVAC.


----------



## Uther

Watched Jurassic World tonight and didn’t see it as much, but also tried the beginning of The Force Awakens and saw it again in the smoke. I’m going to try another HDMI cable and see if that makes a difference. Hopefully it is not the projector. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Uther said:


> Watched Jurassic World tonight and didn’t see it as much, but also tried the beginning of The Force Awakens and saw it again in the smoke. I’m going to try another HDMI cable and see if that makes a difference. Hopefully it is not the projector.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Maybe change the HDMI port.

Take a picture to see exactly what it looks like.

Is it from a stream or disc?


----------



## b_scott

Uther said:


> Watched Jurassic World tonight and didn’t see it as much, but also tried the beginning of The Force Awakens and saw it again in the smoke. I’m going to try another HDMI cable and see if that makes a difference. Hopefully it is not the projector.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


do you have a vent near the path of the projector? I feel like it's heat waves. Can you turn off your HVAC and check?


----------



## Uther

b_scott said:


> do you have a vent near the path of the projector? I feel like it's heat waves. Can you turn off your HVAC and check?



Definitely not heat waves at it only shows up in certain parts of the picture. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

Uther said:


> Definitely not heat waves at it only shows up in certain parts of the picture.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's why I wondered if it might be. Mine is definitely in the area of my vent.


----------



## Uther

noob00224 said:


> Maybe change the HDMI port.
> 
> Take a picture to see exactly what it looks like.
> 
> Is it from a stream or disc?



I’ll try port 2 and see. Seeing it from both streaming and disc, but they both feed over the same HDMI. Since it isn’t 4K, port 2 should function the same, so that is a good idea to try. 

This is also a 5 year old 20’, Redmere cable, which should handle 10.2 GBPs. I wouldn’t expect it to be the issue as it is the same cable that fed the Panny with no issues, but I do have some very new 4K cables on TVs in the house that I can borrow to test that aspect as well. 

I tried taking a picture of it, but because it is similar to mosquito noise, you can’t see it in a still. I’m going to try a short video clip as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bribassguy

So I joined the ranks with a refurbished unit from Epson... I think that I maybe have an issue. 

When unit first fires up there is a very noticeable Green tint... after 20-30 seconds it's normalizes. 

Should I be sending this back?


----------



## scubasteve2365

I'm having a hard time truly wrapping my head around the myriad of color spaces and bit depth as it relates to different media, sources, and the PJ switching to certain meta-data. I understand what each are well enough but it seems like maybe it's a messy wild wild west.

I have an Nvidia Shield, Apple 4k, PS4 Pro, and a PC connected up.

My go to for most media is the apple 4k, so if we are watching something via Netflix, Hulu, SDR content it's usually done there. The appleTV is set to auto switch color space and frame rate.

My UHD backup viewing is done via the Shield (via Kodi) because it can handle the native Atmos (whereas Apple TV only supports Atmos via streaming services). It is also set to auto switch color space and frame rate.

The projector itself has all color and space related settings set to auto.

We recently watched all of the Harry Potter movies and they didn't really look good in HDR, and I didn't know how to force SDR in this instance. I digress it could have just been that movie series and poor HDR execution. Sometimes when I view content it looks really really good. Other times the color space just seems wrong. Almost as if the meta-data isn't engaging the correct mode on the PJ. I've also seen the information screen on the PJ sometimes indicate 12-bit which confuses me because as far as I know there isn't any 12-bit content. 

I don't know if I have a question in here really, just my thoughts above and wondering if anyone else's experience is the same or if there is something I'm grossly misunderstanding.


----------



## --Sclaws

bribassguy said:


> So I joined the ranks with a refurbished unit from Epson... I think that I maybe have an issue.
> 
> When unit first fires up there is a very noticeable Green tint... after 20-30 seconds it's normalizes.
> 
> Should I be sending this back?


Sounds normal for a lamp based projector. Mine does that as well... After warmup all is fine.


----------



## Uther

So, I’ve confirmed that when I set the Apple TV to 4K 60 SDR and turn on Match Dynamic Range and Match Frame Rate, Netflix makes UHD Dolby Vision/HDR content available (shows next to the title). If I force the ATV to 4K HDR 30, it only shows the title available as Ultra HD 4K (no Dolby Vision or HDR).

The projector seems to support this since when set to 4K 60 SDR and playing a Netflix UHD Dolby Vision or HDR title, the projector info shows that it is receiving BT2020/HDR/4:2:2. On SD content the projector info switches back to REC709/SDR.

So, shouldn’t be a problem with UHD HDR Blu-ray either. Really, only 4K 60 HDR games present a challenge due to he bandwidth limitation. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Oil Country

Uther said:


> Agreed. Sometimes it is easy to go down the rabbit hole and you forget that some of the “major” differences discussed here are people picking nits (literally and figuratively ).
> 
> Good point, Ad, on laser as well. I looked into some of those options as part of researching this, but could not find anything that worked in CIH.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


*Uther I am also still the proud owner of a Panasonic PT AE 3000 U from 10 years ago, but it now has a nasty red or blue line running down screen it comes and goes but is almost always there now, and I have been looking for a projector to replace it for years since 4K has evolved. But can't find the perfect replacement yet. My main issues have been the cost of True 4K projectors have not came down as I have hoped for. And lack of zoom memory and black housing have been my major issues.

I have been looking at the Epson's for quite a while however I cant get a straight answer if the Epson's will work in my 2.35 to 1 CIH set up, could you please tell me from your experience if this Epson 6040 or 4050 ( I need a black projector for my room and I think 5040 or 5050 only comes white is that correct?)

I am very limited by room depth at 15 feet, the front lens of my Panny 3000 sits 13 feet 9 inches from screen, if I was to go with one of Epson's Lens would be approx 13 feet from screen due to increase in depth of projector.


My screen is 112 inches wide by 48 inches high approx. 122 inch diagonal size with a 3.5 inch black velvet border surrounding screen

I will watch mostly Blue Ray, soon to be 4K movies, and be streaming movies on Netflix or Prime in 4K, and my movie theatre is completely dark no ambient light, with 4 chairs 11 feet away from screen.


I have been on Projector central and attached the projector throw distance calculator, can you or someone explain if this projector will work for 100% certainty for filling my 122 inch 2.35 screen? Will it work exactly like my Panasonic worked? 

Will the picture look perfect or will it look off because projector to close to the wide angle end 1.93x, its this still an ideal situation or is it better to find a different projector that can throw distances more easily at this 13 feet? Or as long as it is somewhere on that calculation line the picture will look the same? I have no idea what the advantage or disadvantage is to be closer to telephoto end or wide angle end of the zoom range of this projector???


Any advice , tips or explanations how an Epson 6040, 4050, will fill this screen greatly appreciated!!!!!

Would I assume correctly the closer you are to screen the brighter image will be? This may be a good thing I assume ?? But you will have less adjustments?

Thank you and stay safe everyone down there

Oil Country from Canada

*


----------



## Uther

Oil Country said:


> *Uther I am also still the proud owner of a Panasonic PT AE 3000 U from 10 years ago, but it now has a nasty red or blue line running down screen it comes and goes but is almost always there now, and I have been looking for a projector to replace it for years since 4K has evolved. But can't find the perfect replacement yet. My main issues have been the cost of True 4K projectors have not came down as I have hoped for. And lack of zoom memory and black housing have been my major issues.
> 
> I have been looking at the Epson's for quite a while however I cant get a straight answer if the Epson's will work in my 2.35 to 1 CIH set up, could you please tell me from your experience if this Epson 6040 or 4050 ( I need a black projector for my room and I think 5040 or 5050 only comes white is that correct?)
> 
> I am very limited by room depth at 15 feet, the front lens of my Panny 3000 sits 13 feet 9 inches from screen, if I was to go with one of Epson's Lens would be approx 13 feet from screen due to increase in depth of projector.
> 
> 
> My screen is 112 inches wide by 48 inches high approx. 122 inch diagonal size with a 3.5 inch black velvet border surrounding screen
> 
> I will watch mostly Blue Ray, soon to be 4K movies, and be streaming movies on Netflix or Prime in 4K, and my movie theatre is completely dark no ambient light, with 4 chairs 11 feet away from screen.
> 
> 
> I have been on Projector central and attached the projector throw distance calculator, can you or someone explain if this projector will work for 100% certainty for filling my 122 inch 2.35 screen? Will it work exactly like my Panasonic worked?
> 
> Will the picture look perfect or will it look off because projector to close to the wide angle end 1.93x, its this still an ideal situation or is it better to find a different projector that can throw distances more easily at this 13 feet? Or as long as it is somewhere on that calculation line the picture will look the same? I have no idea what the advantage or disadvantage is to be closer to telephoto end or wide angle end of the zoom range of this projector???
> 
> 
> Any advice , tips or explanations how an Epson 6040, 4050, will fill this screen greatly appreciated!!!!!
> 
> Would I assume correctly the closer you are to screen the brighter image will be? This may be a good thing I assume ?? But you will have less adjustments?
> 
> Thank you and stay safe everyone down there
> 
> Oil Country from Canada
> 
> *



Yes, it should work. I simply removed my AE3000 and hung the 5040. The throw ratios are almost exactly the same. The calculator on projector central is a good tool to use if you want to play with moving the projector around in your space. 

You are also correct, you have to get a 6040 or 6050 to get black. I just have a hard time paying $400 for black plastic with the same guts. The extra year warranty was not much of a value to me since I look at this as a stop gap projector. Even though my theater is dark, the projector is far enough away that the white case is not going to impact contrast ratio on the screen. It’s a personal decision though, so if you want black, get black. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

Uther said:


> Yes, it should work. I simply removed my AE3000 and hung the 5040. The throw ratios are almost exactly the same. The calculator on projector central is a good tool to use if you want to play with moving the projector around in your space.
> 
> You are also correct, you have to get a 6040 or 6050 to get black. I just have a hard time paying $400 for black plastic with the same guts. The extra year warranty was not much of a value to me since I look at this as a stop gap projector. Even though my theater is dark, the projector is far enough away that the white case is not going to impact contrast ratio on the screen. It’s a personal decision though, so if you want black, get black.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Just wondering if I have missed any updated best settings since the settings document was published back in 11/17? If not, was there a consensus on the settings in that document as best? Harper with Oledurt suggestions? Looking for HDR and SDR best for a dark room. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## miketyler

I just pulled the trigger on the 5040UB refurb. For those that have been waiting for the 5040UB to come back in stock here's a tip: If you go directly to the Epson site like I have been and check the Clearance Center you'll probably see the 5040UB refurb has been out of stock and only the 5040UBe is there. However if you go to Groupon or other site that hosts Epson coupons and specials it will redirect you to the Epson Clearance Center and the 5040UB refurb will appear there ready to order. 

I'm unsure why this is but I have been watching the site daily and would have never thought about this. Just this morning I had finally given up on the 5040UB availability and had the 5040UBe in my shopping cart and was checking out and saw the option for coupon code. A quick Google search for Epson coupons returned the Groupon site. A click and redirect later and the 5040UB refurb was in stock and ready to order at the Epson Clearance Center. So just know that you may see different models available in the clearance page depending on where you access the Epson site from. Prices are all the same. Hope this helps


----------



## b_scott

how are people calibrating these themselves? not interested in hiring someone. I have used the Spyder for calibrating my screens, but projection is a different animal.


----------



## carp

Is there a way to save the blanking feature? I use it for 2:35:1 (since almost all content is actually 2:39:1) so that light doesn't spill on the frame on the sides of the screen. However, I have to remove the blanking when going back to 16:9. I've tried using "save memory" but it doesn't work once you go back to 0 blanking for 16:9 and then return to 2:35:1.


----------



## pete ramberg

carp said:


> Is there a way to save the blanking feature? I use it for 2:35:1 (since almost all content is actually 2:39:1) so that light doesn't spill on the frame on the sides of the screen. However, I have to remove the blanking when going back to 16:9. I've tried using "save memory" but it doesn't work once you go back to 0 blanking for 16:9 and then return to 2:35:1.



The 5050UB allows you to save the blanking value. The 5040UB does not allow it. I know this for sure because my friend has the 5040 and I have the 5050. I can save "blanking" and he cannot.


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> how are people calibrating these themselves? not interested in hiring someone. I have used the Spyder for calibrating my screens, but projection is a different animal.


You will need to use an app like HCFR or CalMAN.


----------



## b_scott

Dominic Chan said:


> b_scott said:
> 
> 
> 
> how are people calibrating these themselves? not interested in hiring someone. I have used the Spyder for calibrating my screens, but projection is a different animal.
> 
> 
> 
> You will need to use an app like HCFR or CalMAN.
Click to expand...

Thanks


----------



## Boggle

I'm having trouble with getting this pj to go to 3d mode. I use an htpc. I think 3d is only supported at 1080p, so I tried setting my htpc to 1080p, but pj still says 4k and 3d mode is grayed out. What am I doing wrong? Is something still stuck in upscaling mode? My receiver is set to passthrough so that isnt it.


----------



## johncarner

I just bought the Epson 6040ub at safeandsound. I spent the extra for the 6040 just for the black color and 3 year warranty. Just mounted it the other day and have not set it up yet. Theater is still under construction but getting close!


----------



## ryudoadema

Boggle said:


> I'm having trouble with getting this pj to go to 3d mode. I use an htpc. I think 3d is only supported at 1080p, so I tried setting my htpc to 1080p, but pj still says 4k and 3d mode is grayed out. What am I doing wrong? Is something still stuck in upscaling mode? My receiver is set to passthrough so that isnt it.


For blu-ray 3d you have to use one of only a few programs that can play them. Jriver, older powerdvd, mpc-hc are a few. You also have to be on an older driver for nvidia if you have one of their cards, as they stopped supporting 3d earlier this year.


----------



## marcosphoto

johncarner said:


> I just bought the Epson 6040ub at safeandsound. I spent the extra for the 6040 just for the black color and 3 year warranty. Just mounted it the other day and have not set it up yet. Theater is still under construction but getting close!


Can of tremclad will do the same thing for $15 haha. Just kidding, I was really torn between the 5040,6040,5050 models - but then found the 5040 BNIB (suspected 2019 build) with free spare bulb mail-in-rebate which I thought was reasonable. I also leveraged the PJ with the 820 BR player for a total of $4000 with tax included. It's not a smoking hot deal but wasn't horrible for a retail purchase. I knew it was going to be a long time before the 5050 dropped in price and I was hearing a lot of questionable things with the reman. Right now the 5050 is going for around $4000+tax on it's own on sale - so 1 year later I am still content with my decision. (Although sometimes I still regret not getting the 5050, can't really tell if it was worth $1000 more tho).


----------



## b_scott

ryudoadema said:


> For blu-ray 3d you have to use one of only a few programs that can play them. Jriver, older powerdvd, mpc-hc are a few. You also have to be on an older driver for nvidia if you have one of their cards, as they stopped supporting 3d earlier this year.


how about playing 3D files with Plex?


----------



## ryudoadema

b_scott said:


> how about playing 3D files with Plex?


Same if you are trying to play full-res frame-packed iso or mkvs. SBS or OU shouldn't need any special programs nor older nvidia drivers.

The easiest way I've found for playing full-res 3d files off my NAS is using kodi with a Zidoo Z9s. Might be able to use Plex too or plexkodiconnect etc to use plex backend and kodi frontend. Don't quote me on that last sentence though. You'd have to dig a little to make sure.


----------



## DavidinGA

robc1976 said:


> Here are the settings. This was well over 15hrs and, multiple attempts of Calibrating with i1pro and HCFR
> 
> The gamma tracks very close if not right on the 2084 gamma curve in most areas. Contrast clipped around 3400 nits.
> 
> I see highlights I have never seen before and detail is amazing. Best picture I have seen on this projector or in my room. This is not a over saturated picture with tons of bright colors, its accurate colors.
> 
> Keep in mind these settings may not look good in your room, my room and screen may be very different. The faintest light can throw off a Calibration by miles.
> 
> Room: dedicated theater, with black walls, black carpet, black ceiling with 0 light.
> 
> Screen: Stewart Cima Neueve 156"
> 
> Everything I took pics of except gamma as it didn't show the value.
> 
> Gamma: 0,2,2,5,21,29,31,31,31
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



I was going to experiment with these settings, but what is the gamma value from that custom gamma that I would input into madVR (ranges from 1.9 to 2.6)?

Thanks


----------



## Boggle

ryudoadema said:


> For blu-ray 3d you have to use one of only a few programs that can play them. Jriver, older powerdvd, mpc-hc are a few. You also have to be on an older driver for nvidia if you have one of their cards, as they stopped supporting 3d earlier this year.


I am using mpc-hc with madvr. I think the issue is I can't seem to get the projector to go into 1080p mode. Do you know which nvidia driver works? I do have an nvidia card.


----------



## ruggercb

Just wondering when most of you change out the lamp. I’m crowding 2K hours on the original bulb, always run on eco or medium. High lamp is an option but I can’t really hear the pj in eco or medium power and I like that.


----------



## ryudoadema

Boggle said:


> I am using mpc-hc with madvr. I think the issue is I can't seem to get the projector to go into 1080p mode. Do you know which nvidia driver works? I do have an nvidia card.


I think driver version 425.31 is the last with 3d support


----------



## --Sclaws

ryudoadema said:


> I think driver version 425.31 is the last with 3d support


Note that PowerDVD 20 has dropped 3D support.
https://forum.cyberlink.com/forum/posts/list/82034.page


----------



## covsound1

DavidinGA said:


> I was going to experiment with these settings, but what is the gamma value from that custom gamma that I would input into madVR (ranges from 1.9 to 2.6)?
> 
> Thanks


Even if you dont come away with anything. What is key i think is the negative rgb offsets. i am using the 5050 and i find i get the most out of the projector using -42 average this also worked on my 5040. May sound backwards but calibrate around your rgb.


----------



## Boggle

ryudoadema said:


> I think driver version 425.31 is the last with 3d support



windows 10 doesnt let you go that far back anymore. i still think my issue is related to something preventing me from setting the pj to 1080p mode.


----------



## noob00224

Boggle said:


> windows 10 doesnt let you go that far back anymore. i still think my issue is related to something preventing me from setting the pj to 1080p mode.


You can install it manually and disable update to update the gpu driver.


----------



## Boggle

noob00224 said:


> You can install it manually and disable update to update the gpu driver.


it just says that this version isn't compatible with my version of windows. the windows update in the fall invalidated a bunch of old drivers.

While it is a driver issue, it is not due to 3d vision- thats for games. It is definitely a problem with getting the driver to send a 1080p signal. If I do an odd resolution, like 1680X1050, the pj switches to 1080p mode and 3d works on the latest driver. But then everything is letterboxed to 1680. I tried making a custom 1080p resolution, but the pj still goes into 4k mode.


----------



## ryudoadema

Boggle said:


> it just says that this version isn't compatible with my version of windows. the windows update in the fall invalidated a bunch of old drivers.
> 
> While it is a driver issue, it is not due to 3d vision- thats for games. It is definitely a problem with getting the driver to send a 1080p signal. If I do an odd resolution, like 1680X1050, the pj switches to 1080p mode and 3d works on the latest driver. But then everything is letterboxed to 1680. I tried making a custom 1080p resolution, but the pj still goes into 4k mode.



It is due to 3d vision. Or at least it's one of your hurdles.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-h...22972-3d-mkv-mvc-files-htpc.html#post59333608

https://yabb.jriver.com/interact/index.php?topic=120495.0


----------



## Bandyka

b_scott said:


> how are people calibrating these themselves? not interested in hiring someone. I have used the Spyder for calibrating my screens, but projection is a different animal.


That's a learning curve of months and years typically however you should get started by purchasing a meter such as the iPro and use HCFR. Ensure you read tutorials on this forum as new users often don't realize they made things worse by "calibrating", naturally that is why there are paid professionals to do this but if you are an enthusiast its a fun process to make mistakes and learn as you go.


----------



## b_scott

Bandyka said:


> That's a learning curve of months and years typically however you should get started by purchasing a meter such as the iPro and use HCFR. Ensure you read tutorials on this forum as new users often don't realize they made things worse by "calibrating", naturally that is why there are paid professionals to do this but if you are an enthusiast its a fun process to make mistakes and learn as you go.


Thanks!


----------



## Boggle

ryudoadema said:


> It is due to 3d vision. Or at least it's one of your hurdles.
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-h...22972-3d-mkv-mvc-files-htpc.html#post59333608
> 
> https://yabb.jriver.com/interact/index.php?topic=120495.0


I was able to revert to that update by following these links, and changing resolutions actually works properly in this driver. Though certain refresh rates are broken now lol. Its definitely less broken though, thanks for the help everyone!

FYI if anyone has this problem and wants to use the current driver- the best i could get working was just making a custom resolution of 1920X1079.


----------



## DavidinGA

Does anyone know how the 5040's gamma options translate to the actual gamma amount?

For example, does gamma setting at 0 = a gamma of 2.2?

-2 =
-1 =
0 =
+1 =
+2 =

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Pearcebud

So I've had my 5040ub for the past 8 months and I absolutely love it. I have it mounted with 100 inch elite screen white. Currently I'm in the process of swapping out my old 1080p receiver for new 4k receiver. The reason I'm doing this is because I want a Dolby Atmos setup 5.1.2 and I can't enjoy 4K properly.

The receiver that i will be picking up tomorrow is the Denon AVRS750H 7.2 Channel 4K Ultra HD Network AV Receiver. From what I understand this receiver will allow me to have a Dolby Atmos setup and will allow me to play all content in 4k.

After reading a few posts in this form I heard of something called the hdfury which i dont know much about. I have a few questions that if someone can help me out id appreciate it.

1.) My 5040ub being 10.8gb of bandwidth, will i be able to properly watch 4k content with it connected to my receiver?

2.) Will dolby atmos work while i watch a movie in 4k with my projector with my current bandwith without hdfury?

3.) Can i have 4k hdr work with the 5040ub or do i need some sort of hdfury linker to allow this? 

4.) With my 1080p recevier is IT POSSIBLE that the hdfury would allow dolby atmos to work with my non atmos 1080p recevier? (Dumb question)

5.) If a hdfury is needed, would i need the "Monoprice HDFury 4K Ultra AVRkey

Or the 

HDFury - 4K Integral 2 - All-in-One -18Gbps Scaler, Matrix, Splitter with OSD & HDCP Doctor


Both of these items appear to be on amazon, one at 238 and the other at 349 Canadian.


----------



## ltalbrecht

Newbie here!!!

Have a refurbished 5040 ub arriving later this week and really excited to get it. I have been being advised by someone on this board about how to get it set up so that it maximizes it's abilities, but he doesn't own one and suggested I come on here and ask if there is a general consensus on how to get things going.

1. CALIBRATION- this wasn't his question, but mine. When I got my first PJ back in '05, a Panasonic ae900u, I bought a small kit to calibrate it which included a couple of test patterns on a disc and some colored plastic lenses to look through. Do these units need calibration or are they pretty good to go right out of the box? If so, what do I want to do? 

2. HDR optomization. This guy explained the importance of it. He said most people on here are probably using something. I am pairing it with a new Pioneer LX303. His recommendation was a Panasonic UB420. Said it really pairs well with projectors in terms of optimization. Is that what the majority of users are doing?

Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to shed some light on this.


----------



## stuart628

Is there one perfect streaming player that can do all this? 
A I want to leave my streaming player set at 1080p sdr 60hz as we do tend to watch live tv and sports through the epson 5040....the epson does have 4k enhancement turned on...We have 235 movies in our digital storage lockers with about 150 to 175 of those the 1080p version only....now when we watch native 4k content I want my streaming player to auto kick up to 4k whatever the range and rate is....IS there one streaming player that will do this? I am currently using a apple tv 4k and it seems once i put it in 1080p and turn match range and rate on it stays in 1080p...my ultimate goal is for the projector to do 4k enhancement to 1080p stuff and native 4k stuff be native 4k with atmos sound etc....any help would be apperciated!


----------



## ryudoadema

ltalbrecht said:


> Newbie here!!!
> 
> Have a refurbished 5040 ub arriving later this week and really excited to get it. I have been being advised by someone on this board about how to get it set up so that it maximizes it's abilities, but he doesn't own one and suggested I come on here and ask if there is a general consensus on how to get things going.
> 
> 1. CALIBRATION- this wasn't his question, but mine. When I got my first PJ back in '05, a Panasonic ae900u, I bought a small kit to calibrate it which included a couple of test patterns on a disc and some colored plastic lenses to look through. Do these units need calibration or are they pretty good to go right out of the box? If so, what do I want to do?
> 
> 2. HDR optomization. This guy explained the importance of it. He said most people on here are probably using something. I am pairing it with a new Pioneer LX303. His recommendation was a Panasonic UB420. Said it really pairs well with projectors in terms of optimization. Is that what the majority of users are doing?
> 
> Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to shed some light on this.


As far as optimization for HDR, a powerful pc with madvr is best. It does not work for streaming. A ub420 or ub820 is next best and much simpler and cheaper. It works for streaming and blu-ray, but netflix has to be 1080p because it can't force 4k/24hz like a few other players. I also can't get netflix atmos to work, but I think that is a handshake issue with certain AVRs.


----------



## b_scott

ryudoadema said:


> As far as optimization for HDR, a powerful pc with madvr is best. It does not work for streaming. A ub420 or ub820 is next best and much simpler and cheaper. It works for streaming and blu-ray, but netflix has to be 1080p because it can't force 4k/24hz like a few other players. I also can't get netflix atmos to work, but I think that is a handshake issue with certain AVRs.


Is there a how to for MadVR somewhere on avsforum? I have an old HTPC that I built to run Kodi years ago but I migrated towards Plex on Firestick because it was more family friendly. However now that I'm building a theatre I could definitely have a PC hooked up and use that for movies.


----------



## ryudoadema

b_scott said:


> Is there a how to for MadVR somewhere on avsforum? I have an old HTPC that I built to run Kodi years ago but I migrated towards Plex on Firestick because it was more family friendly. However now that I'm building a theatre I could definitely have a PC hooked up and use that for movies.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/1357375-advanced-mpc-hc-setup-guide.html
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-h...vr-player-support-thread-67.html#post59236874

Mpc-hc is good for a free player with mad-vr added to it. J-river Media Center is easier with madvr built-in and works as it's own frontend like kodi/plex, but paid.


----------



## Uther

stuart628 said:


> Is there one perfect streaming player that can do all this?
> A I want to leave my streaming player set at 1080p sdr 60hz as we do tend to watch live tv and sports through the epson 5040....the epson does have 4k enhancement turned on...We have 235 movies in our digital storage lockers with about 150 to 175 of those the 1080p version only....now when we watch native 4k content I want my streaming player to auto kick up to 4k whatever the range and rate is....IS there one streaming player that will do this? I am currently using a apple tv 4k and it seems once i put it in 1080p and turn match range and rate on it stays in 1080p...my ultimate goal is for the projector to do 4k enhancement to 1080p stuff and native 4k stuff be native 4k with atmos sound etc....any help would be apperciated!



My Apple TV works exactly like what you are describing you want. I have it set at 4K 60 SDR by default, then I have match range and rate enabled. When it encounters 24 Hz content or HDR content, it passes that to the PJ. I have not tried it setting default to 1080P 60 SDR. Can you just change your default to 4K?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## stuart628

Uther said:


> My Apple TV works exactly like what you are describing you want. I have it set at 4K 60 SDR by default, then I have match range and rate enabled. When it encounters 24 Hz content or HDR content, it passes that to the PJ. I have not tried it setting default to 1080P 60 SDR. Can you just change your default to 4K?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



If I change it to 4K on Apple TV I believe it gets stuck in 4K and doesn’t stream my 1080p movies in 1080p allowing my projector to do 4K enhancement...I am not quite sure what the Apple TV does to be honest and I am trying to learn


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

stuart628 said:


> If I change it to 4K on Apple TV I believe it gets stuck in 4K and doesn’t stream my 1080p movies in 1080p allowing my projector to do 4K enhancement...I am not quite sure what the Apple TV does to be honest and I am trying to learn
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



That’s a good point, but I would need to do an a/b to know if the “enhancement” is really doing anything better than the upscaler in the ATV. Might be worth a test this weekend. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## stuart628

Uther said:


> That’s a good point, but I would need to do an a/b to know if the “enhancement” is really doing anything better than the upscaler in the ATV. Might be worth a test this weekend.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I will have sometime this weekend to mess around...Anyone already do this on the thread and know? I assumed the Epson would be the better one and that’s why I have been trying to figure out if a streamer will auto switch resolutions...curious that’s all wonder what would be the ideal setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## marcosphoto

Uther said:


> That’s a good point, but I would need to do an a/b to know if the “enhancement” is really doing anything better than the upscaler in the ATV. Might be worth a test this weekend.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





stuart628 said:


> I will have sometime this weekend to mess around...Anyone already do this on the thread and know? I assumed the Epson would be the better one and that’s why I have been trying to figure out if a streamer will auto switch resolutions...curious that’s all wonder what would be the ideal setup.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I also put out a similar question on both this and the DP-UB820 forums, to see if anyone has done significant testing on if it's better to have the BR player do the 4K upconversion or send info at 1080 and let the PJ do it. Not one response. Weird that such an obvious test has never been performed. Personally I don't think I have the eyes to tell different, but someone out there must have the skills and equipment to have validated results!?


----------



## ltalbrecht

I posted earlier with a couple questions and I think one of them got looked over.


My first was regarding optimization and using a Panasonic ub420. One person said that was a good way to go so I am assuming that is my answer.


I also asked a question about calibration. How are these refurbs right out of the box? If I need to do some calibrations, what would owners
recommend as a relatively simple way to do it?? 



Thanks!


----------



## hoogs

I am messing around with my PC settings, is this the best signal I can get? The reason I ask is the Output Dynamic Range is Limited. Otherwise I can do RGB Full, I am not clear which is better. Any help is appreciated!


----------



## DavidinGA

Seems like most questions go unanswered here these days...everyone moved on? 


People who have had their 5040 calibrated (either professionally or diy with a professional meter and software) how would you rate the pq improvements? Say on a scale from 1 being a minimal improvement and 10 being a night/day improvement, how much of an improvement did you see?






Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

DavidinGA said:


> Seems like most questions go unanswered here these days...everyone moved on?
> 
> 
> People who have had their 5040 calibrated (either professionally or diy with a professional meter and software) how would you rate the pq improvements? Say on a scale from 1 being a minimal improvement and 10 being a night/day improvement, how much of an improvement did you see?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


This forum represents a rich repository of information. It might be intimidating to go through it, but to be honest, most questions, problems, and suggestions have been answered, or at least have had multiple opinions posted in response. The activity level here has definitely diminished, as you would expect given that the 5050 is the current model. I do suggest searching the forum for specific terms as one way to see what others have said or tried.


----------



## inspector

DavidinGA said:


> Seems like most questions go unanswered here these days...everyone moved on?
> 
> 
> People who have had their 5040 calibrated (either professionally or diy with a professional meter and software) how would you rate the pq improvements? Say on a scale from 1 being a minimal improvement and 10 being a night/day improvement, how much of an improvement did you see?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


 


I had my 6040 ISFed back in 2018 and he did a ****ty job. Right now I use NATURAL for BD/SD, B&W CINEMA for B&W BD/SD, NATURAL for UHD, DYNAMIC for 3D, CINEMA for B&W 3D (no ghosting whatsoever).


All these setting are found in this thread and others. Even my Panny 420 settings.


Right now I am super happy with all settings and have stopped tinkering with the settings and ENJOYING MY 6040!!!


My HT is pitch black and my settings are perfect for it.


If someone would like my settings, I'll be glad to PM them to you.


I don't use any device for streaming except my Panny 420/Sammy K8500.


----------



## Boggle

Pearcebud said:


> So I've had my 5040ub for the past 8 months and I absolutely love it. I have it mounted with 100 inch elite screen white. Currently I'm in the process of swapping out my old 1080p receiver for new 4k receiver. The reason I'm doing this is because I want a Dolby Atmos setup 5.1.2 and I can't enjoy 4K properly.
> 
> The receiver that i will be picking up tomorrow is the Denon AVRS750H 7.2 Channel 4K Ultra HD Network AV Receiver. From what I understand this receiver will allow me to have a Dolby Atmos setup and will allow me to play all content in 4k.
> 
> After reading a few posts in this form I heard of something called the hdfury which i dont know much about. I have a few questions that if someone can help me out id appreciate it.
> 
> 1.) My 5040ub being 10.8gb of bandwidth, will i be able to properly watch 4k content with it connected to my receiver?
> 
> yes it just doesnt work at 60hz for gaming at 4k hdr. uhd is 24 hz, so its fine. you can also 4k game, without hdr
> 
> 2.) Will dolby atmos work while i watch a movie in 4k with my projector with my current bandwith without hdfury?
> 
> dont need fury or linker.
> 
> 3.) Can i have 4k hdr work with the 5040ub or do i need some sort of hdfury linker to allow this?
> dont need fury or linker.
> 
> 4.) With my 1080p recevier is IT POSSIBLE that the hdfury would allow dolby atmos to work with my non atmos 1080p recevier? (Dumb question)
> 
> no you need a 4k atmos receiver.
> 
> 5.) If a hdfury is needed, would i need the "Monoprice HDFury 4K Ultra AVRkey
> 
> Or the
> 
> HDFury - 4K Integral 2 - All-in-One -18Gbps Scaler, Matrix, Splitter with OSD & HDCP Doctor
> 
> 
> Both of these items appear to be on amazon, one at 238 and the other at 349 Canadian.


i dont use this, just receiver and htpc.


----------



## hoogs

I just want to throw this out there, I was going through my settings and noticed the my Signal>Advanced>HDMI Video Range was set to Normal. I changed it to Expanded and a ton of new detail came through while hooked up to my PC. I must have set it to Normal at some point for some reason, but it's crazy to me the difference lol


----------



## Dominic Chan

DavidinGA said:


> Does anyone know how the 5040's gamma options translate to the actual gamma amount?
> 
> For example, does gamma setting at 0 = a gamma of 2.2?
> 
> -2 =
> -1 =
> 0 =
> +1 =
> +2 =
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


AFAIK, 0 is meant to be 2.2 and +2 is 2.4, etc. However, the projector develops “gamma droop” after a while and +2 may give you closer to 2.2. The only way to get the actual gamma you want is to use Custom gamma and adjust the controls with the help of a calibration program such as HCFR.


----------



## DavidinGA

Dominic Chan said:


> AFAIK, 0 is meant to be 2.2 and +2 is 2.4, etc. However, the projector develops “gamma droop” after a while and +2 may give you closer to 2.2. The only way to get the actual gamma you want is to use Custom gamma and adjust the controls with the help of a calibration program such as HCFR.


Thanks!

Correct me if this wrong, but I thought a higher gamma number had the effect of lower the overall image brightness and a lower gamma number increased the overall image brightness?

On the Epson 5040 when I change the gamma from 0 to +1 the overall image brightness increases and then at +2 it increases even more and appears washed out vs 0 in my room where I have no ambient light and triple black velvet surrounded my screen.

Going from 0 to -1 the overall image brightness decreases and decreases even more at -2. 

So you're saying a gamma of 2.4 (which you said would be +2 on the 5040) is supposed to make the image look brighter (or more washed out) than 2.2? 

I thought a gamma of 2.4 would make the image darker...which would be the negative amounts of gamma in the 5040, right?


@Dominic Chan


----------



## Dominic Chan

DavidinGA said:


> Correct me if this wrong, but I thought a higher gamma number had the effect of lower the overall image brightness and a lower gamma number increased the overall image brightness?


That is correct. I could’ve got them reversed.


----------



## Chad T

hoogs said:


> I just want to throw this out there, I was going through my settings and noticed the my Signal>Advanced>HDMI Video Range was set to Normal. I changed it to Expanded and a ton of new detail came through while hooked up to my PC. I must have set it to Normal at some point for some reason, but it's crazy to me the difference lol


I believe it defaults to Normal. I also set mine to Expanded. Otherwise, I wasn't able to see the BTB bars.


----------



## Dominic Chan

marcosphoto said:


> I also put out a similar question on both this and the DP-UB820 forums, to see if anyone has done significant testing on if it's better to have the BR player do the 4K upconversion or send info at 1080 and let the PJ do it. Not one response. *Weird that such an obvious test has never been performed.* Personally I don't think I have the eyes to tell different, but someone out there must have the skills and equipment to have validated results!?


The test is not as “obvious” as when dealing with native 4K displays. 

The BR upconversion produces 3840x2160 pixels. 

The projector has only 2K native pixels, and 4K Enhancement simply shifts each pixel diagonally, resulting in a “2x2K” displayed image. Whether the BR has done the upscaling, the projector still has to do its diagonal shifting.

Thus, it’s not a matter of “who does a better upconversion”, but rather, whether a 4K input provides any advantage in the pixel shifting. And the assessment is not easy, as in both cases the results will fail the traditional resolution tests.


----------



## Chad T

Dominic Chan said:


> The test is not as â€œobviousâ€Â as when dealing with native 4K displays.
> 
> The BR upconversion produces 3840x2160 pixels.
> 
> The projector has only 2K native pixels, and 4K Enhancement simply shifts each pixel diagonally, resulting in a â€œ2x2Kâ€Â displayed image. Whether the BR has done the upscaling, the projector still has to do its diagonal shifting.
> 
> Thus, itâ€™️s not a matter of â€œwho does a better upconversionâ€Â, but rather, whether a 4K input provides any advantage in the pixel shifting. And the assessment is not easy, as in both cases the results will fail the traditional resolution tests.


Based on that, theoretically, I’d think it might be better to send 1080. Because the projector only has to pixel shift. Whereas with 4K, the projector has to both downconvert and pixel shift. All I can say is that I’m perfectly happy sending 1080p from my old BDP-83 and letting the 5040 pixel shift.


----------



## DavidinGA

marcosphoto said:


> I also put out a similar question on both this and the DP-UB820 forums, to see if anyone has done significant testing on if it's better to have the BR player do the 4K upconversion or send info at 1080 and let the PJ do it. Not one response. Weird that such an obvious test has never been performed. Personally I don't think I have the eyes to tell different, but someone out there must have the skills and equipment to have validated results!?


My guess is that the difference will be negligible and is a mute point and that's why no one answered. Try it both ways and if you can't tell the difference you've arrived at your answer. 

Personally, I've always used MADVR on my htpc and so my results along your line of thought wouldn't really help as a BR players upscale benefits are very poor compared to what MadVR does. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

Dominic Chan said:


> The test is not as “obvious” as when dealing with native 4K displays.
> 
> The BR upconversion produces 3840x2160 pixels.
> 
> The projector has only 2K native pixels, and 4K Enhancement simply shifts each pixel diagonally, resulting in a “2x2K” displayed image. Whether the BR has done the upscaling, the projector still has to do its diagonal shifting.
> 
> Thus, it’s not a matter of “who does a better upconversion”, but rather, whether a 4K input provides any advantage in the pixel shifting. And the assessment is not easy, as in both cases the results will fail the traditional resolution tests.



I think the point is what the projector does with the two different signals. Clearly it does something differently, hence the buzzing on 1080 signals related to the 4K Enhancement setting vs. no buzzing with 4K signals. Your logic is sound, but the projector is definitely handling the two and the diagonal shift differently. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

Uther said:


> I think the point is what the projector does with the two different signals. Clearly it does something differently, hence the buzzing on 1080 signals related to the 4K Enhancement setting vs. no buzzing with 4K signals. Your logic is sound, but the projector is definitely handling the two and the diagonal shift differently.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I did say that in the last paragraph of my post:


Dominic Chan said:


> Thus, it’s not a matter of “who does a better upconversion”, *but rather, whether a 4K input provides any advantage in the pixel shifting*. And the assessment is not easy, as in both cases the results will fail the traditional resolution tests.


----------



## Uther

Dominic Chan said:


> I did say that in the last paragraph of my post:



Yes, I can read and no, you didn’t really say the same thing. Your post focused on the diagonal shifting, my point was broader in that more is going on than just the shift with the 4K Enhancement setting base in the source signal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pearcebud

Hey everyone!

I have a 100 inch white projector screen with 5040, i was wondering whats your guys favorite calibrations? Keep tinkering with 4k image.


----------



## DavidinGA

Pearcebud said:


> Hey everyone!
> 
> I have a 100 inch white projector screen with 5040, i was wondering whats your guys favorite calibrations? Keep tinkering with 4k image.


Natural mode + madVR magic sauce for amazing HDR

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Pearcebud

Hi guys

Anybody here have the Nvidia Shield Android tv stick? How well does it work vs the shield pro? I would like to stream 4k remuxes from my pc to 5040ub. Running a 5.1.2 with 5040ub. Also i have gb internet. Anyone have the shield vs android stick comparison and is there any performance difference really?


----------



## b_scott

Pearcebud said:


> Hi guys
> 
> Anybody here have the Nvidia Shield Android tv stick? How well does it work vs the shield pro? I would like to stream 4k remuxes from my pc to 5040ub. Running a 5.1.2 with 5040ub. Also i have gb internet. Anyone have the shield vs android stick comparison and is there any performance difference really?


Just FYI your internet speed doesn't matter if you're streaming internally. Only your router max speed (likely fine as long as it's Wifi N)


----------



## Uther

DavidinGA said:


> Natural mode + madVR magic sauce for amazing HDR
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



MadVR seems interesting if you like to tinker, but I wonder how easy is it for the family? Clearly, Im not talking about them adjusting settings, I’m talking more about how easy is it for them to control the HTPC to just watch TV? What are you doing for remote control? BT keyboard?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Uther said:


> MadVR seems interesting if you like to tinker, but I wonder how easy is it for the family? Clearly, Im not talking about them adjusting settings, I’m talking more about how easy is it for them to control the HTPC to just watch TV? What are you doing for remote control? BT keyboard?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Once madvr is configured it's easy and can be system can be used with a remote. I don't use it that way but ask @Onkyoman or @markmon1 on the details.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2215490-madvr-player-support-thread-76.html
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-h...2364113-guide-building-4k-htpc-madvr-148.html

There's also a guide for madvr, with a section for remote configuration:
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188&pid=2238981#pid2238981


----------



## DavidinGA

Uther said:


> MadVR seems interesting if you like to tinker, but I wonder how easy is it for the family? Clearly, Im not talking about them adjusting settings, I’m talking more about how easy is it for them to control the HTPC to just watch TV? What are you doing for remote control? BT keyboard?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Once it's setup you're generally good to go.

MadVR only works for content you have, it doesn't work for streaming services (you would need a physical madVR ENVY for that), so keep that in mind. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

DavidinGA said:


> Once it's setup you're generally good to go.
> 
> MadVR only works for content you have, it doesn't work for streaming services (you would need a physical madVR ENVY for that), so keep that in mind.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



Ahhh...good to know. I thought since it was codec based it would be applied to any video output. Thanks for the info. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DJConan

I recently purchased the 5040UBe as a refurb from Epson. The first one I received gave me the auto iris error. I could not do anything with it. I let it sit awhile and tried a few hours later after being unplugged, but no go. I contacted Epson and one of the support people told me it may have occurred due to static or something and to turn it back on. While on the phone with support, I turned it on and it worked. He told me to call them back if it happened again. Just as I hung up the phone, it happened again. I called them back and they began the process of sending another one out. Meanwhile, later that night, I tried it again and it worked. In fact, I was able to watch a few movies and the error never returned. 

I received the replacement 2 days later and I brought that one up. Worked with no problems. I figured I would return the first one since I do not want to risk running into the error again. Is that a logical assumption?

With the second PJ, a few days after receiving, I noticed a green/blue blob or pixel on a bright scene (see attachment). I ran different color slides and it is not so visible on black or dark images and it becomes most obvious on white. I've wiped the exterior of the lens with a lint free cloth and that did nothing. The blob is impossible to see from an average viewing distance, so at least it doesn't distract. 

I decided to fire up the 1st PJ to look for image issues and found none. 

Then, I brought up the service menu to compare the 1st and 2nd PJ use stats.

1st PJ: Total hours of use was 7, which was my own use, and 7 hours on the lamp. Also shows the lamp replacement was 1 time and lamp on 2 times (I had it on more than 2 times) and lamp off 1 time. The PJ came in a refurb box and was missing the back cover (came with the 2nd PJ), so I don't think it was new.

2nd PJ: Total hours of use was 458 with lamp hours 3 and lamp replacement 2 times.


I'm trying to decide which one I should send back. The 1st PJ that had the auto iris error, but came with apparently 0 hours of use (did they reset it?) or the 2nd PJ with 458 hours of use and a blob. Or should I request a 3rd JP? 

Any suggestions? 

Thanks,
Mark


----------



## Pearcebud

DJConan said:


> I recently purchased the 5040UBe as a refurb from Epson. The first one I received gave me the auto iris error. I could not do anything with it. I let it sit awhile and tried a few hours later after being unplugged, but no go. I contacted Epson and one of the support people told me it may have occurred due to static or something and to turn it back on. While on the phone with support, I turned it on and it worked. He told me to call them back if it happened again. Just as I hung up the phone, it happened again. I called them back and they began the process of sending another one out. Meanwhile, later that night, I tried it again and it worked. In fact, I was able to watch a few movies and the error never returned.
> 
> I received the replacement 2 days later and I brought that one up. Worked with no problems. I figured I would return the first one since I do not want to risk running into the error again. Is that a logical assumption?
> 
> With the second PJ, a few days after receiving, I noticed a green/blue blob or pixel on a bright scene (see attachment). I ran different color slides and it is not so visible on black or dark images and it becomes most obvious on white. I've wiped the exterior of the lens with a lint free cloth and that did nothing. The blob is impossible to see from an average viewing distance, so at least it doesn't distract.
> 
> I decided to fire up the 1st PJ to look for image issues and found none.
> 
> Then, I brought up the service menu to compare the 1st and 2nd PJ use stats.
> 
> 1st PJ: Total hours of use was 7, which was my own use, and 7 hours on the lamp. Also shows the lamp replacement was 1 time and lamp on 2 times (I had it on more than 2 times) and lamp off 1 time. The PJ came in a refurb box and was missing the back cover (came with the 2nd PJ), so I don't think it was new.
> 
> 2nd PJ: Total hours of use was 458 with lamp hours 3 and lamp replacement 2 times.
> 
> 
> I'm trying to decide which one I should send back. The 1st PJ that had the auto iris error, but came with apparently 0 hours of use (did they reset it?) or the 2nd PJ with 458 hours of use and a blob. Or should I request a 3rd JP?
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark



Request a third one. There shouldnt be any hours on it.


----------



## gooch02000

DavidinGA said:


> Natural mode + madVR magic sauce for amazing HDR
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Hey David, I just ordered a refurb 5040 (stepping up from a Sony 45ES, which I've enjoyed immensely over the last 2 years or so).

Given that the 5040 doesn't output true 4k, can you set the desktop resolution on your HTPC to something like 1440p? And if this is right, then could I get away with buying a less expensive graphics card to run madvr, since the upscaling only has to go from 1080 to 1440 instead of 2160?

I'm looking at gtx 1660s and rtx 2060s now, but I'd happily save the 100+ bucks by getting a 1660 if the above is right.


----------



## akuhn0001

DJConan said:


> I
> 
> I'm trying to decide which one I should send back. The 1st PJ that had the auto iris error, but came with apparently 0 hours of use (did they reset it?) or the 2nd PJ with 458 hours of use and a blob. Or should I request a 3rd JP?


I’ve almost ordered one of these every day for the past week but keep hesitating based on stories like this. If it were me I would be requesting a third projector honestly. It’s a fantastic deal but still a purchase you will likely live with for years. Now I just need to figure out what I’m going to do...


----------



## marcosphoto

akuhn0001 said:


> I’ve almost ordered one of these every day for the past week but keep hesitating based on stories like this. If it were me I would be requesting a third projector honestly. It’s a fantastic deal but still a purchase you will likely live with for years. Now I just need to figure out what I’m going to do...


I bought a BNIB unit last year, knock on wood I'm ok so far although I only have about 350 or so hours on it. I was aware of all these problems and did my due diligence best as possible, but with a company who has no transparency and shares nothing when asked - the results of my search are questionable. Frankly, I'd dump the 5040 idea and go 5050, you would think they have it figured out by now plus there are some extra perks like the bandwidth. Like you said, it's a purchase you'd live with for years so it may be worth some extra cash initially. My 10 year old Panasonic is still sitting in a box downstairs, working - hope my 5040 lasts that long. Or, get a JVC which markets competitive performance, better reliability and customer support apparently (according to a vendor I spoke to who now doesn't like to push Epson anymore, too many complaints).


----------



## DJConan

Pearcebud said:


> Request a third one. There shouldnt be any hours on it.


It is a refurbished one, so I was expecting some hours on it. 



akuhn0001 said:


> I’ve almost ordered one of these every day for the past week but keep hesitating based on stories like this. If it were me I would be requesting a third projector honestly. It’s a fantastic deal but still a purchase you will likely live with for years. Now I just need to figure out what I’m going to do...


I don't regret the purpose. The auto iris error was annoying and having to wait 2 more days to receiving the 2nd one. The image blob doesn't bother me other than I know it's there. 

I was playing around with the first PJ last night and got the auto iris error again (a power cycle and it worked again). So I think that confirmed that the 1st one needs to be returned for sure.


----------



## Boggle

gooch02000 said:


> Hey David, I just ordered a refurb 5040 (stepping up from a Sony 45ES, which I've enjoyed immensely over the last 2 years or so).
> 
> Given that the 5040 doesn't output true 4k, can you set the desktop resolution on your HTPC to something like 1440p? And if this is right, then could I get away with buying a less expensive graphics card to run madvr, since the upscaling only has to go from 1080 to 1440 instead of 2160?
> 
> I'm looking at gtx 1660s and rtx 2060s now, but I'd happily save the 100+ bucks by getting a 1660 if the above is right.



it looks best set at 4k, especially if using as a pc.


----------



## DavidinGA

gooch02000 said:


> Hey David, I just ordered a refurb 5040 (stepping up from a Sony 45ES, which I've enjoyed immensely over the last 2 years or so).
> 
> 
> 
> Given that the 5040 doesn't output true 4k, can you set the desktop resolution on your HTPC to something like 1440p? And if this is right, then could I get away with buying a less expensive graphics card to run madvr, since the upscaling only has to go from 1080 to 1440 instead of 2160?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking at gtx 1660s and rtx 2060s now, but I'd happily save the 100+ bucks by getting a 1660 if the above is right.


Yeah, I don't think you'll gain anything by trying that imo.

I'm still using a 1060 card myself which does the job for DTM fine. If cost is a concern I'd go grab a used card off ebay; that's what I did. I paid like $150 for my 1060 card back in 2018.

The best bang for the buck is probably a used 1080ti card for less than $500 on ebay... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Chad T

I played around with a gamma setting of +1. I believe this correlates with 2.1? Anyway, with Blu-rays at 1080p and using 4K enhancement, I’m thinking I like the extra detail I’m getting in darker scenes. I previously had it set to the “0” default. Will continue to evaluate but I believe I like +1 better.


----------



## Pearcebud

DavidinGA said:


> Uther said:
> 
> 
> 
> MadVR seems interesting if you like to tinker, but I wonder how easy is it for the family? Clearly, Im not talking about them adjusting settings, Iâ€™️m talking more about how easy is it for them to control the HTPC to just watch TV? What are you doing for remote control? BT keyboard?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Once it's setup you're generally good to go.
> 
> MadVR only works for content you have, it doesn't work for streaming services (you would need a physical madVR ENVY for that), so keep that in mind.
> .
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk[/QUOTE
> 
> ]
> 
> Would hdfury linker work for direct source like plex? I have 4k remuxes that i watch straight from my plex server by casting
Click to expand...


----------



## blazin912

I'm sure it's been covered but search has failed me. Nvidia shield + 4k HDR w/Atmos mkvs backups. What are the best/working settings I need to achieve reasonable output. Is there a preferred playback app on the shield? No disc spinner here, kids destroy them otherwise.

No madvr, I need streaming apps for Amazon and Netflix that are high WAF.

So shield it is, with the best it and the 5040 can do. TIA


----------



## Pearcebud

blazin912 said:


> I'm sure it's been covered but search has failed me. Nvidia shield + 4k HDR w/Atmos mkvs backups. What are the best/working settings I need to achieve reasonable output. Is there a preferred playback app on the shield? No disc spinner here, kids destroy them otherwise.
> 
> No madvr, I need streaming apps for Amazon and Netflix that are high WAF.
> 
> So shield it is, with the best it and the 5040 can do. TIA



So I just recently discovered Plex myself.. I ended up making a server on my gaming computer. What I did is I have a website that I used for full 1:1 mkv 4k blue rays with hdr, I download them and put them on my Plex server and I direct source that material to my firestick which is plugged into my avr then fed to my 5040ub for projection. Below I will post the link of my Reddit post I posted yesterday. I was basically Blown Away by the quality as by doing this and using my home network there was no streaming or transcoding involved so I got a one to one video right to my projector that required little to no internet at all. My post blew up on Reddit overnight so you can go read through all the comments and you can get the answers to your questions!

https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheate..._hdr/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share


----------



## sleepingatsea

Pearcebud said:


> So I just recently discovered Plex myself.. I ended up making a server on my gaming computer. What I did is I have a website that I used for full 1:1 mkv 4k blue rays with hdr, I download them and put them on my Plex server and I direct source that material to my firestick which is plugged into my avr then fed to my 5040ub for projection. Below I will post the link of my Reddit post I posted yesterday. I was basically Blown Away by the quality as by doing this and using my home network there was no streaming or transcoding involved so I got a one to one video right to my projector that required little to no internet at all. My post blew up on Reddit overnight so you can go read through all the comments and you can get the answers to your questions!
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheate..._hdr/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share


Yep Plex is pretty damn good! Runs flawless on the nvidia Shield pro too - full HDR & atmos, so good! That was a cool little vid you posted of Bad Boys - mind sharing your HDR settings? The colors looks crazy!


----------



## inspector

Brettmckinney said:


> Yep Plex is pretty damn good! Runs flawless on the nvidia Shield pro too - full HDR & atmos, so good! That was a cool little vid you posted of Bad Boys - mind sharing your HDR settings? The colors looks crazy!




PM sent


----------



## b_scott

Pearcebud said:


> So I just recently discovered Plex myself.. I ended up making a server on my gaming computer. What I did is I have a website that I used for full 1:1 mkv 4k blue rays with hdr, I download them and put them on my Plex server and I direct source that material to my firestick which is plugged into my avr then fed to my 5040ub for projection. Below I will post the link of my Reddit post I posted yesterday. I was basically Blown Away by the quality as by doing this and using my home network there was no streaming or transcoding involved so I got a one to one video right to my projector that required little to no internet at all. My post blew up on Reddit overnight so you can go read through all the comments and you can get the answers to your questions!
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheate..._hdr/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share


Plex runs pretty well on my Firestick 4K, however it chokes on full MKV bluray backups (35GB+)


----------



## ciao.carlos

DJConan said:


> It is a refurbished one, so I was expecting some hours on it.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't regret the purpose. The auto iris error was annoying and having to wait 2 more days to receiving the 2nd one. The image blob doesn't bother me other than I know it's there.
> 
> I was playing around with the first PJ last night and got the auto iris error again (a power cycle and it worked again). So I think that confirmed that the 1st one needs to be returned for sure.


I just got a refurb unit, and it had 2 hours on it and the lamp has two hours, which is about the time I've had it on. My firmware version is 114. What is the firmware on the unit with the auto iris problem?

By the way, I am blown away with those blacks!


----------



## DJConan

ciao.carlos said:


> I just got a refurb unit, and it had 2 hours on it and the lamp has two hours, which is about the time I've had it on. My firmware version is 114. What is the firmware on the unit with the auto iris problem?
> 
> By the way, I am blown away with those blacks!


Both of the ones I received have 114 on them.


----------



## blazin912

Pearcebud said:


> So I just recently discovered Plex myself.. I ended up making a server on my gaming computer. What I did is I have a website that I used for full 1:1 mkv 4k blue rays with hdr, I download them and put them on my Plex server and I direct source that material to my firestick which is plugged into my avr then fed to my 5040ub for projection. Below I will post the link of my Reddit post I posted yesterday. I was basically Blown Away by the quality as by doing this and using my home network there was no streaming or transcoding involved so I got a one to one video right to my projector that required little to no internet at all. My post blew up on Reddit overnight so you can go read through all the comments and you can get the answers to your questions!
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheate..._hdr/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share


Hmm.. full 1:1 MKV blurays with atmos audio and hdr? What are your firestick output settings? What resolution and bit depth? Is plex performing tone mapping?


----------



## Pearcebud

Hey guys i was wondering has anybody here purchased the AKIA 125inch fixed frame Projector screen white? I was looking at purchasing it to upgrade my pulldown 100 inch elite screen. I was looking at ethier the akia 125 or the Elitescreen called star frame 120 inch.


----------



## noob00224

Pearcebud said:


> Hey guys i was wondering has anybody here purchased the AKIA 125inch fixed frame Projector screen white? I was looking at purchasing it to upgrade my pulldown 100 inch elite screen. I was looking at ethier the akia 125 or the Elitescreen called star frame 120 inch.


Akia is just another brand of Elitescreen. Ask @subacabra or check out his posts about it on:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...-ht3550-announcement-ownera-s-thread-206.html


----------



## Pearcebud

blazin912 said:


> Pearcebud said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I just recently discovered Plex myself.. I ended up making a server on my gaming computer. What I did is I have a website that I used for full 1:1 mkv 4k blue rays with hdr, I download them and put them on my Plex server and I direct source that material to my firestick which is plugged into my avr then fed to my 5040ub for projection. Below I will post the link of my Reddit post I posted yesterday. I was basically Blown Away by the quality as by doing this and using my home network there was no streaming or transcoding involved so I got a one to one video right to my projector that required little to no internet at all. My post blew up on Reddit overnight so you can go read through all the comments and you can get the answers to your questions!
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheate..._hdr/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm.. full 1:1 MKV blurays with atmos audio and hdr? What are your firestick output settings? What resolution and bit depth? Is plex performing tone mapping?
Click to expand...

Sorry about that! I just recently became aware of 4k firestick dosent give "Perfect" atmos audio. I have my plex going 4k hdr at 24fps bt2020 8bit colour


----------



## blazin912

Pearcebud said:


> Hey guys i was wondering has anybody here purchased the AKIA 125inch fixed frame Projector screen white? I was looking at purchasing it to upgrade my pulldown 100 inch elite screen. I was looking at ethier the akia 125 or the Elitescreen called star frame 120 inch.





noob00224 said:


> Akia is just another brand of Elitescreen. Ask @subacabra or check out his posts about it on:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...-ht3550-announcement-ownera-s-thread-206.html


I tried to purchase this.. my package showed up as just gloves and a hammer.. Had a real hard time convincing Amazon of this..

It has since disappeared from Amazon and appears out of stock everywhere. 

I elected to build my own


----------



## Archaea

In way if answering some common unanswered questions over the last few posts.

4K HDR isn’t very good on this projector - no matter what config I’ve tried. HarperVision config was the best of the dozen recommendations I tried, but it was annoying having to manually flip the config in the menus every time you changed between SDR and HDR sources so I gave up on that.

I bought a Panasonic 420 player and set it up so it outputs 4K HDR at SDR with BT2020 color space.
I no longer have to swap any configs on the projector for HarperVision and it generally looks better. This is absolutely the way to go. Strip HDR from any source before feeding this projector.

I have MadVR with a nvidia 2080, and it does not look appreciably better than the Panasonic and the Panasonic is far less tinkering and expense than a HTPC. The Panasonic can stream the basic services like Prime and Netflix, etc, with Atmos with good video quality (and also strip HDR) but it is a pretty crappy slow interface compared to modern streamers. Feels about 3-5 years old. The Panasonic is best used for 4K disk and bluray disk playback, and worth the price of entry for that functionality alone with the Epson 5040UB (to strip off the HDR from 4K disks.)

As far as streamers:
I’ve tried 2017 Shield, 2019 4K firestick, 2019 4K Roku stick, and HTPC. My favorite with the Epson 5040UB is the $50, 2019 Roku 4K stick. For the simple reason, of the streaming devices, its the only one I’ve tried that lets you select 4k 60hz SDR. So again, you just eliminate the pesky HDR problems from the source!

As far as 4K vs 1080p upscaled with modern retail bluray vs 4k disks. If you can see a major difference on this projector let me know. I think it’s pretty insignificant. Either the 4K ability of the Epson 5040UB is poor or the upscaling ability on the Panasonic or Epson is quite good - or some combination of both. I’ve spent some time trying to direct compare. The difference is subtle at best, but a label of non existent is more appropriate when viewed from the seats. (Except when you don’t strip HDR and then its clearly worse with 4K HDR disks vs 1080p disks). I wouldn’t pay the extra for 4K disks over 1080 for viewing on this projector. Darn the movie companies for only putting Atmos tracks on the 4K disks sometimes and forcing our hand to buy 4K disks.


Problem: HDR streaming looks dark, murky, and crappy on the 5040UB. (IE Amazon 4K Firestick, or nvidia shield, or any other streamer where I can’t disable HDR)










Solution: Roku 4K Firestick where you can disable HDR at source display settings


















Same thing applied with HDR disks. Stripping HDR from 4K disks with the Panasonic player is the way to go! Nothing gets lost to the murkiness that is HDR on the 5040UB. 

This projector just doesn’t have the brightness needed for HDR.

I played with leaving HDR on, and tinkering with the HDR optimizer built into the Pansonic that many people rave about for various display devices. However, I’ve determined with the 5040UB, its just better and far less constant tinkering (with the HDR slider movie to movie) to just disable HDR in the menus. Then no tinkering at all and just a good picture all the time.










Heres an example where a 1080p disk looks better than a 4K disk (4K disk too dark) and while I didn’t get anyone else to post test results with their equipment, I did get some agreement that others had seen the same:
Post number 40:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/187-...d-ultra-hd-blu-ray-review-2.html#post59017680


----------



## camtah

Uther said:


> I just can’t seem to pull the trigger on this. The 10 Gbps limit and HDR issues just keep tugging at the back of my brain. I’m afraid I’ll just be in a constant fiddling, work around, and “what if” nightmare.
> 
> Grrr....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I broke down and purchased a refurbished 6040 last week:

My sources are an Xbox One X and a Shield TV 2015. I have exactly one 4k BR (GOTG2) to play with, plus Prime, Netflix etc. Projecting to a 110" screen w/ 7.2.4 Atmos HT.

Like most of you, I agonized over the lack of [email protected] HDR, 4:2:0 vs 4:2:2 etc. Being new to the 4k scene, I wasn't aware of the dark journey I was soon to embark on. I should note that I am a retired engineer by trade and as such, I am quite comfortable with computers, electronics and "Honey, the sink is clogged.." scenarios.

Oh, it started out small...reading a few, no make that hundreds of posts in this threads to the point I now need more carrot juice. Then it moved to small tweaks, a little more contrast here, a touch of color here...well you get the idea.

But I is wasn't enough, like a junkie I needed more. Here, I found the "pushers" I needed to satisfy the demon cravings (Harper, oledurt..I looking at you)...
It became sure madness, I tell you...I started to became obsessed on what the projector info screen told me. I would cry out in my sleep "Nooo, it can't be SDR, I want HDR at 60.."

Finally, after an intervention from family members (OK, my wife and the neighbor's dog), it became clear that I needed help. "Hello, my name is..." comes to mind

(sigh) I guess finding the sweet spot on this projector, is like chasing for treasure on Oak Island..(Yes, there is something promised here but it's elusive...). 

On my way to recovery, I have become aware a few truths:

- The refurb price for this PJ nice to get into the 4K arena. I should be happy with this.

- The Epson settings out of the box are just fine.

- To reach enlightenment, I must look deep into my soul (and my wallet).

- 4K is really dead..Long live 8K....(Code Blue !!! Relapse in progress...)


----------



## b_scott

Archaea said:


> Problem: HDR streaming looks dark, murky, and crappy on the 5040UB. (IE Amazon 4K Firestick, or nvidia shield, or any other streamer where I can’t disable HDR)


Thanks for the post. What do you mean you can't disable HDR on the firestick? You definitely can. You set it for on, off, or auto.

Amazon Fire TV

Go to the Fire TV Home screen
Go to Settings
Select Display & Sounds
Select Display
Select Video Resolution
Select 8 bits to disable HDR
Apple TV

Go to Apple TV Home screen
Go to Settings
Select Video & Audio
Select 4K SDR to disable HDR
Roku

Go to Roku Home screen
Go to Settings
Select Display Type
Choose either 4K 30Hz or 4K 60Hz to disable HDR


----------



## macming

I just jumped on the refurb bandwagon. My first order was cancelled by Epson for a declined credit card transaction after a day. I called my bank and they said the transaction was successful. I called Epson back and had the agent process another order. It's been about 2 days and the website still says "Processing". 

In your experience, how long did it take Epson to ship the projector?


----------



## aducrejr

macming said:


> I just jumped on the refurb bandwagon. My first order was cancelled by Epson for a declined credit card transaction after a day. I called my bank and they said the transaction was successful. I called Epson back and had the agent process another order. It's been about 2 days and the website still says "Processing".
> 
> In your experience, how long did it take Epson to ship the projector?


I had the same problem because I missed the security department phone call. After leaving a voicemail the status did not change I had to call back sales and have the security guy call me back. After 4 days I finally have a tracking number


----------



## macming

HTML:







aducrejr said:


> I had the same problem because I missed the security department phone call. After leaving a voicemail the status did not change I had to call back sales and have the security guy call me back. After 4 days I finally have a tracking number


Well, maybe it was because I made this post. I called Epson and I received an email with a tracking number a minute before I talked to an agent. I should get the new project some time next week. Looking forward to the endless tweaking!


----------



## ciao.carlos

aducrejr said:


> I had the same problem because I missed the security department phone call. After leaving a voicemail the status did not change I had to call back sales and have the security guy call me back. After 4 days I finally have a tracking number


I had the same problem as well. When I get a phone call on my cell, and the number is not on my contact list, I assume I don't want to talk to the person and immediately block the caller. When I inquired into why my first order was cancelled, they said they weren't able to get a hold of me. I checked through my blocked call and messages, and sure enough, there were two calls and one message. There is a lesson to be learned, and I'm looking for it. In the meantime, I unblocked the number, received the call, verified the purchase and now have 4 hours on the refurb 5040. On the limited equipment I have available to me at the moment, I'm quite impressed. Then again, my previous and only projector was the Home Cinema 2040.


----------



## chych7

I've been playing with my 5040ub refurb for the last week and wanted to add my $0.02.

I have my setup in a dedicated room (still in construction/remodeling), and the colors/picture is fantastic, especially in 4k HDR.
Now, initially I didn't think 4K 30Hz would be a problem, but I do get stuttering with playback that 4K 60Hz SDR does not have.

However, when I play from my HTPC (with Geforce GTX 970) using Kodi with HDR support, and enable auto selection of refresh rate, amazingly the projector is indicating a 4K HDR 50 Hz signal (with 4:2:0). The difference between 50 and 60 Hz is small so this pretty much solves the motion smoothness issue for me of 4K 30Hz HDR. I'm satisfied with this solution thus far.


----------



## chych7

chych7 said:


> I've been playing with my 5040ub refurb for the last week and wanted to add my $0.02.
> 
> I have my setup in a dedicated room (still in construction/remodeling), and the colors/picture is fantastic, especially in 4k HDR.
> Now, initially I didn't think 4K 30Hz would be a problem, but I do get stuttering with playback that 4K 60Hz SDR does not have.
> 
> However, when I play from my HTPC (with Geforce GTX 970) using Kodi with HDR support, and enable auto selection of refresh rate, amazingly the projector is indicating a 4K HDR 50 Hz signal (with 4:2:0). The difference between 50 and 60 Hz is small so this pretty much solves the motion smoothness issue for me of 4K 30Hz HDR. I'm satisfied with this solution thus far.


Little more info in the image. Not sure if this is "true" HDR but it certainly looks better than SDR, and is smooth. For certain movies, Kodi may pick the movie's actual refresh rate and apply it to the projector, i.e. 23.997 Hz; end result is smooth HDR video.


----------



## chych7

Thanks avs forum, no edit post capability. Let's try this again.


----------



## camtah

Yikes: 

It my excitement to get my refurbished 6040 up at running, I failed to notice that I have what appears to be a 1/4" scratch on the lens. It doesn't appear to affect the picture or I can't notice any distortion on the screen. Currently have 13 hrs on the unit. I got the 6040 because of the color/extra year warranty. 

Given the horror stories about Epson's CS, should I consider sending it back or live with it?


----------



## camtah

camtah said:


> Yikes:
> 
> It my excitement to get my refurbished 6040 up at running, I failed to notice that I have what appears to be a 1/4" scratch on the lens. It doesn't appear to affect the picture or I can't notice any distortion on the screen. Currently have 13 hrs on the unit. I got the 6040 because of the color/extra year warranty.
> 
> Given the horror stories about Epson's CS, should I consider sending it back or live with it?


Update: It seems that offending issue is toward the outside of the lens ring, so I am assuming that maybe it isn't in the line of fire. I will live with it...


----------



## Bob 99

I've had an issue with my 5040 projector, where I can no longer control it with the Epson iProjection app. My projector is showing as "unavailable", which is odd since it used to work and there have been no changes to the setup.

Has anyone else encountered this issue?


----------



## BKEW

So stuck at home found myself really using the theater....then came here (BAD MOVE LOL)..... I also now jumped on the 6040ub REFURB deal. 

It came today and looks impressive out of the box. I looked at Art's settings _(have not tried)_ but wondering if there is a page that has what people are using for settings? _Ie: quick link to the pages. _ I have a light controlled room but do have a bit of ambient light on now and then. 

Sorry to ask but the thread is now 644 pages long so hoping someone has links to to some the better settings people have come up with and will tweak from there.

Appreciate any input. Stay safe and enjoy movies while we all wait it out...


----------



## john hunter

If you go to Display calibration there is a link there to calibrating the 6040 with the latestsettings.


----------



## Oil Country

*Advice on 4K player to use 6040UB to full potential*

While after 5 years of research and reading many posts I finally broke down and purchased a refurbished 6040UB, for my first impressions the picture in 4 K is amazing, and the blacks really are black  

Other than Epson having to send me a second projector out this week as first one had a fist size dust blob in top corner I am extremely still happy, will update on when second projector arrives if it is blob free as i am very picky about having perfect picture without these nasty dust blobs. I must say they do warranty there products 

That all being said can anyone recommend a 4K player that will have all the specs(HDR, DOLBY VISION, SDR etc..) to bring this Epson to its best picture when I start watching my 4K collection I have been collecting for last year or so in anticipation of this purchase someday.

Currently I have a Sony UPB-X800 that will not project 4K to Epson for some strange reason, Sony is still looking into this, there best answer is to run a shorter 18 gb premium high speed cable instead of my 25 foot Monoprice 1.4 HDMI cable running through ceiling. I do have ability to get a second cable there, if that doesn't work I have 2 Cat 6 cables at both ends. Not sure if there is a box that can run 4K through cat 6 however ? Does anyone out there have this set up to their 6040 or 5040?

Any way any advice or tips greatly appreciated to get a 4K resolution to my new Epson greatly appreciated.


Thanks

Oil Country


----------



## inspector

The Panny 420. This PJ doesn't do DV.


----------



## noob00224

inspector said:


> The Panny 420. This PJ doesn't do DV.


Not sure if the 420 has DV, only the 820 and 9000.


----------



## macming

My refurb 5040 came in yesterday and I have to say, I was impressed that it looked brand new. The project also had 0 hours and no dust blobs that I could see. Compared to my 6500UB, the picture is much sharper, but the black levels are about the same. 

So far, I'm very happy with the upgrade because the 5040 is much quieter, the auto IRIS is silent, and having a motorized lens is amazing. For what the unit is going for, I have to agree that it's probably the best value at the moment.


----------



## b_scott

noob00224 said:


> Not sure if the 420 has DV, only the 820 and 9000.


they were saying the Epson doesn't have DV so the 420 is fine because you don't need the DV which is in the 820. 

I still bought an 820 though....


----------



## gooch02000

macming said:


> My refurb 5040 came in yesterday and I have to say, I was impressed that it looked brand new. The project also had 0 hours and no dust blobs that I could see. Compared to my 6500UB, the picture is much sharper, but the black levels are about the same.
> 
> So far, I'm very happy with the upgrade because the 5040 is much quieter, the auto IRIS is silent, and having a motorized lens is amazing. For what the unit is going for, I have to agree that it's probably the best value at the moment.


How do you have the auto iris set up, and how does it work with madvr? Currently mine is disabled, but only because I'm not sure what to do with it at the moment.


----------



## macming

gooch02000 said:


> How do you have the auto iris set up, and how does it work with madvr? Currently mine is disabled, but only because I'm not sure what to do with it at the moment.


I'm just running my videos off an XBOX and I'm using mostly default settings. The auto IRIS was set to high from the factory. Since it wasn't noisy, I didn't change it.


----------



## airbag41

Can the Epson wireless receiver HDMI out port be used as an audio out? Like a ARC?


----------



## inspector

BKEW said:


> So stuck at home found myself really using the theater....then came here (BAD MOVE LOL)..... I also now jumped on the 6040ub REFURB deal.
> 
> It came today and looks impressive out of the box. I looked at Art's settings _(have not tried)_ but wondering if there is a page that has what people are using for settings? _Ie: quick link to the pages. _ I have a light controlled room but do have a bit of ambient light on now and then.
> 
> Sorry to ask but the thread is now 644 pages long so hoping someone has links to to some the better settings people have come up with and will tweak from there.
> 
> Appreciate any input. Stay safe and enjoy movies while we all wait it out...



PM sent...hope it helps.


John


----------



## Uther

I started doing a little playing last night with the Apple TV output settings and the very preliminary results are that I think outputting 1080/60 SDR or 1080/60 HDR may yield a better picture than 4K/60 SDR (HDR with Match Dynamic Range and 24 FPS content). My guess is the scaling and image enhancement in the projector has something to do with it, but I am also finding the ability to output 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 may play a big part as well. I noticed the difference with 4:4:4 and 4K on another television I have and it seems to hold with 1080 on the projector as well. I want to try dialing in the settings some more though before I make a final judgement. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mikewhyatt

Is there a way to test for dust blobs? I booted up my refurb that was delivered today and looking into the lens there is a TON of dust. Is this is normal? The picture looks fine otherwise.. Also no scratches on the lens that I can see. 

Please see the pic attach it’s hard to take.


----------



## tibimakai

Make the image blurry and if there are dust blobs, you will see them.


----------



## noob00224

mikewhyatt said:


> Is there a way to test for dust blobs? I booted up my refurb that was delivered today and looking into the lens there is a TON of dust. Is this is normal? The picture looks fine otherwise.. Also no scratches on the lens that I can see.
> 
> Please see the pic attach it’s hard to take.


If you can't see them, they don't exist. 

That's normal, happens with DLP as well.

Keep the room as dust free as possible and clean the filters regularly.


----------



## antec121

Hello everyone,

I'm new to the projector scene and was wondering if I could get some advice. There is a pawn shop down the street selling a 5040ub projector for a couple hundred less than the refurbished units from Epson. Should I take a chance or are these units a hit or miss on reliability?


----------



## macming

antec121 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I'm new to the projector scene and was wondering if I could get some advice. There is a pawn shop down the street selling a 5040ub projector for a couple hundred less than the refurbished units from Epson. Should I take a chance or are these units a hit or miss on reliability?


I'd spend the extra $$ for the warranty. At what these refurbs are going for, it's a no brainer to buy from Epson. My unit looked brand new.


----------



## Nick Proell

Has anyone found the 5040UB in stock in the last couple weeks?


----------



## Oil Country

*Curious what Image info you get displayed when watched different formats*

Hi I just set up my new 6040UB and was demoing 4 new 4k Players. What I am curious is when I play a 4k movie like Shazam for example I scroll to projector info tab down to info and I see the following


Resolution is 1920 x 1080
Color Depth 12 bit 4:2:2
Color Format BT. 2020 HDR

Can anyone tell me why resolution says it 1920 x 1080 when I play a 4K movie but when I play a Blu ray or DVD movie the resolution jumps to 

3840 x 2160 however the color depth drops to 8 bit 4:2:0 BT.709 SDR for a DVD while playing 


Any insight why this is happening it is driving me mad why a 4 k movie wont display 3840 x 2160?

Maybe I am missing something here really easy any advice greatly appreciated.

Thank You

Oil Country


----------



## macming

Nick Proell said:


> Has anyone found the 5040UB in stock in the last couple weeks?


I ordered mine last week and it was available even early this week. Keep on checking Epson's site and I'm sure it'll come back soon.


----------



## mxthor3

Patiently awaiting stock on the Canadian site so I can get this ordered.


----------



## Paul Allison

Was lucky to just order a refurbed 5040UBE that was in stock shortly yesterday. I currently have an Xbox OneX I use for Kodi. With the goal of having the best picture quality possible when streaming Kodi, Netflix 4K, and Amazon Prime in 4K, what is the best solution currently. The options seem to be
1. Use the Xbox One X I already have, with an HDFury Linker
2. Purchase an Apple TV Box.
3. Purchase a Nvidia Shield.


Which of these is giving the best results currently for Kodi, Netflix 4K and Amazon Prime 4K?


Thanks! there is a lot of good info here, but couldn't find an answer to the above.


----------



## b_scott

Paul Allison said:


> Was lucky to just order a refurbed 5040UBE that was in stock shortly yesterday. I currently have an Xbox OneX I use for Kodi. With the goal of having the best picture quality possible when streaming Kodi, Netflix 4K, and Amazon Prime in 4K, what is the best solution currently. The options seem to be
> 1. Use the Xbox One X I already have, with an HDFury Linker
> 2. Purchase an Apple TV Box.
> 3. Purchase a Nvidia Shield.
> 
> 
> Which of these is giving the best results currently for Kodi, Netflix 4K and Amazon Prime 4K?
> 
> 
> Thanks! there is a lot of good info here, but couldn't find an answer to the above.


I'm trying to figure out why you would need an HD Fury Linker when the 5040 will downcovert 4K itself


----------



## Paul Allison

b_scott said:


> I'm trying to figure out why you would need an HD Fury Linker when the 5040 will downcovert 4K itself


Its my understanding from this forum that basically everyone with an Xbox One X uses a HD Fury Linker. Are you saying the streaming videos from the Xbox will be as good a picture quality as the down-converted streaming from the Apple or Shield streaming boxes?


----------



## b_scott

Paul Allison said:


> Its my understanding from this forum that basically everyone with an Xbox One X uses a HD Fury Linker. Are you saying the streaming videos from the Xbox will be as good a picture quality as the down-converted streaming from the Apple or Shield streaming boxes?


Sorry, I take back my comment as I can't speak to 4K streaming, only Kodi which is direct play (or Plex). I use my Firestick for streaming and kodi/plex


----------



## macming

Well... I watched a few movies on my refurb 5040 and I'm still blown away by its image quality. However, I tried a few calibration settings from this thread and none of them look good. I guess even though the room is a bat cave, the difference between screens is still drastic enough to throw out the image. 

When I'm between movies and with no video playing on the screen, I can see some very faint fist sized dots. There are maybe 8 - 10 of them. I assume they are dust blobs. If there is a video playing, the dust blobs are not visible at all. 

Since my unit is perfect in every other aspect, should I risk to exchange it for another unit?


----------



## BKEW

Oil Country said:


> Hi I just set up my new 6040UB and was demoing 4 new 4k Players. What I am curious is when I play a 4k movie like Shazam for example I scroll to projector info tab down to info and I see the following
> 
> 
> Resolution is 1920 x 1080
> Color Depth 12 bit 4:2:2
> Color Format BT. 2020 HDR
> 
> Can anyone tell me why resolution says it 1920 x 1080 when I play a 4K movie but when I play a Blu ray or DVD movie the resolution jumps to
> 
> 3840 x 2160 however the color depth drops to 8 bit 4:2:0 BT.709 SDR for a DVD while playing
> 
> 
> Any insight why this is happening it is driving me mad why a 4 k movie wont display 3840 x 2160?
> 
> Maybe I am missing something here really easy any advice greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thank You
> 
> Oil Country


If your testing different players check the settings. My Sony did this to me in the beginning and and it was not set to auto / scaling or 4K. I think because it was on an old TV for a bit that was only 1080. I changed the setting to 4K all the time and all is good now.


----------



## marcosphoto

Becoming concerned about a few characteristics about my 5040. I have seen some posts and even responded to them but to my knowledge no real answers have been put out there.


1) Severe grain, noise? I replaced my PJ, BR player and screen pretty much all at the same time. I used to have an oppoDVD, 106" screen and ptax100 PJ and never saw grain. Now I have a 820 bluray, 125" reference sreen and 5040 and the grain is severe in many but not all scenes. It does it both with direct connection to PJ or with an AVR in between. It almost doesn't even look like film grain but rather seems to move around constantly. A member asked once about mosquito noise, perhaps this is what they were describing? I don't know if this characteristic is always there but the higher quality and size has made it more evident - or I have a weak link somewhere in the video chain. Either way it appears to not be just my unit. I am having problems determining if it's noise or grain or perhaps both - I would say maybe more noise since it moves around when the scene doesn't really change. 



2) Sometimes the brightness starts to rise and drop, in the past I've responded to this forum regarding this symptom as saying mine does it too but it never did it for long (perhaps a couple minutes) so I never lost sleep over it. Last night it started doing it half way into a film and never stopped, became very annoying to watch. I tried fiddling with iris settings with no change. Then I changed input to HDMI2 (no source) and went back - fixed it for a few minutes then started again. Then about 15min before the end of the film it got so severe I turned the PJ off then back on, was fine for the remainder of the film. More noticeable the brighter the scene is. As it appears to be worsening in frequency and severity I am more concerned now. Again like question 1, does not seem to be just mine. 



Any explanations, or tests I can do to find the cause?


----------



## Uther

marcosphoto said:


> Becoming concerned about a few characteristics about my 5040. I have seen some posts and even responded to them but to my knowledge no real answers have been put out there.
> 
> 
> 1) Severe grain, noise? I replaced my PJ, BR player and screen pretty much all at the same time. I used to have an oppoDVD, 106" screen and ptax100 PJ and never saw grain. Now I have a 820 bluray, 125" reference sreen and 5040 and the grain is severe in many but not all scenes. It does it both with direct connection to PJ or with an AVR in between. It almost doesn't even look like film grain but rather seems to move around constantly. A member asked once about mosquito noise, perhaps this is what they were describing? I don't know if this characteristic is always there but the higher quality and size has made it more evident - or I have a weak link somewhere in the video chain. Either way it appears to not be just my unit. I am having problems determining if it's noise or grain or perhaps both - I would say maybe more noise since it moves around when the scene doesn't really change.
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Sometimes the brightness starts to rise and drop, in the past I've responded to this forum regarding this symptom as saying mine does it too but it never did it for long (perhaps a couple minutes) so I never lost sleep over it. Last night it started doing it half way into a film and never stopped, became very annoying to watch. I tried fiddling with iris settings with no change. Then I changed input to HDMI2 (no source) and went back - fixed it for a few minutes then started again. Then about 15min before the end of the film it got so severe I turned the PJ off then back on, was fine for the remainder of the film. More noticeable the brighter the scene is. As it appears to be worsening in frequency and severity I am more concerned now. Again like question 1, does not seem to be just mine.
> 
> 
> 
> Any explanations, or tests I can do to find the cause?



I am the one that also mentioned the grain/mosquito noise issue. I still have no solution either. The strange thing is I see it some sources and scenes, but not others, so I really don’t know if it is a source issue or a projector issue. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

Oil Country said:


> Hi I just set up my new 6040UB and was demoing 4 new 4k Players. What I am curious is when I play a 4k movie like Shazam for example I scroll to projector info tab down to info and I see the following
> 
> 
> Resolution is 1920 x 1080
> Color Depth 12 bit 4:2:2
> Color Format BT. 2020 HDR
> 
> Can anyone tell me why resolution says it 1920 x 1080 when I play a 4K movie but when I play a Blu ray or DVD movie the resolution jumps to
> 
> 3840 x 2160 however the color depth drops to 8 bit 4:2:0 BT.709 SDR for a DVD while playing
> 
> 
> Any insight why this is happening it is driving me mad why a 4 k movie wont display 3840 x 2160?
> 
> Maybe I am missing something here really easy any advice greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thank You
> 
> Oil Country



Before you go the expense of the Fury, I would try outputting all sources as 1080/60 HDR, if you have that option. I haven’t finished my testing for the other day, but I was really impressed with the preliminary results and am almost sold that 4:4:4 may be more important to picture quality than higher resolution from the source. The projector is going to use 4K enhancement anyway to upscale to 4K.

I would be very curious to hear if you can test and see similar results. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mcmountainman

*Refurb ?*

Is getting a Refurbed Epson 5040 worth the risk ? I have a 5030 right now my Question is are these truly refurbished or am I just getting someone elses projector that was sent back already . The price is attractive but not if Im going to be swapping them out constantly . Anyone have experience with buying a Refurbished model directly from Epson , Thanks in Advance . PS - Im not getting it so much for the upgrade in picture as I am for the ability to play Atmos from streaming services . Right now I cant do that because projector is only 1080P so Netflix drops to that which then has no Atmos !


----------



## macming

marcosphoto said:


> Becoming concerned about a few characteristics about my 5040. I have seen some posts and even responded to them but to my knowledge no real answers have been put out there.
> 
> 
> 1) Severe grain, noise? I replaced my PJ, BR player and screen pretty much all at the same time. I used to have an oppoDVD, 106" screen and ptax100 PJ and never saw grain. Now I have a 820 bluray, 125" reference sreen and 5040 and the grain is severe in many but not all scenes. It does it both with direct connection to PJ or with an AVR in between. It almost doesn't even look like film grain but rather seems to move around constantly. A member asked once about mosquito noise, perhaps this is what they were describing? I don't know if this characteristic is always there but the higher quality and size has made it more evident - or I have a weak link somewhere in the video chain. Either way it appears to not be just my unit. I am having problems determining if it's noise or grain or perhaps both - I would say maybe more noise since it moves around when the scene doesn't really change.
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Sometimes the brightness starts to rise and drop, in the past I've responded to this forum regarding this symptom as saying mine does it too but it never did it for long (perhaps a couple minutes) so I never lost sleep over it. Last night it started doing it half way into a film and never stopped, became very annoying to watch. I tried fiddling with iris settings with no change. Then I changed input to HDMI2 (no source) and went back - fixed it for a few minutes then started again. Then about 15min before the end of the film it got so severe I turned the PJ off then back on, was fine for the remainder of the film. More noticeable the brighter the scene is. As it appears to be worsening in frequency and severity I am more concerned now. Again like question 1, does not seem to be just mine.
> 
> 
> 
> Any explanations, or tests I can do to find the cause?


On my 5040, I find older movies are grainy. Even when I watched Batman Begins in 4K this week, the video was very grainy. I just assumed it was the source material. 

Thankfully on my unit, the brightness is consistent. I haven't noticed any issues yet.


----------



## marcosphoto

Uther said:


> I am the one that also mentioned the grain/mosquito noise issue. I still have no solution either. The strange thing is I see it some sources and scenes, but not others, so I really don’t know if it is a source issue or a projector issue.


I agree, some scenes such as those with subjects that are far away (landscapes, distant action) the picture seems very grainy/noisy. On closeups or close subject matter, very sharp and free of noise/grain. I am aware in cinematography, that certain cameras and/or certain lenses can cause more grain and sometimes this effect is even desired by the director or DOP. However I don't think I would call the form of problems we are getting as camera or lens grain/noise but I could be wrong. And even if this were the case, how come after 10 years I've never seen it with my other setup watching DVD's? As I changed all my equipment at nearly the same time and the problem is not 100% of the time - I cannot accurately say.




macming said:


> On my 5040, I find older movies are grainy. Even when I watched Batman Begins in 4K this week, the video was very grainy. I just assumed it was the source material.
> Thankfully on my unit, the brightness is consistent. I haven't noticed any issues yet.


I find the grain/noise in question to be even on brand new movies (no comment on 4K ultra yet). It may be on source material, bluray player, projector. But who might have had the opportunity to try the same film on an array of different equipment to know for sure? Definitely the older the movie the more grain there is, and this is sort of my point. Film grain has a very characteristic look to it, and is very obvious the older the movie is the worse the technology was. However this could be described more as Uther has - a mosquito noise. Like a billion tiny bugs flying around in the scene, I personally would not really call this film grain.


----------



## Uther

macming said:


> On my 5040, I find older movies are grainy. Even when I watched Batman Begins in 4K this week, the video was very grainy. I just assumed it was the source material.
> 
> Thankfully on my unit, the brightness is consistent. I haven't noticed any issues yet.



We just watched it last week too and I noticed it, but only in certain scenes. I also have drawn a similar correlation with older content, so, like you, I’m leaning towards “it’s in the content”. I just think it is weird that I never saw it on my old projector. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Uther

marcosphoto said:


> I agree, some scenes such as those with subjects that are far away (landscapes, distant action) the picture seems very grainy/noisy. On closeups or close subject matter, very sharp and free of noise/grain. I am aware in cinematography, that certain cameras and/or certain lenses can cause more grain and sometimes this effect is even desired by the director or DOP. However I don't think I would call the form of problems we are getting as camera or lens grain/noise but I could be wrong. And even if this were the case, how come after 10 years I've never seen it with my other setup watching DVD's? As I changed all my equipment at nearly the same time and the problem is not 100% of the time - I cannot accurately say.
> 
> 
> 
> I find the grain/noise in question to be even on brand new movies (no comment on 4K ultra yet). It may be on source material, bluray player, projector. But who might have had the opportunity to try the same film on an array of different equipment to know for sure? Definitely the older the movie the more grain there is, and this is sort of my point. Film grain has a very characteristic look to it, and is very obvious the older the movie is the worse the technology was. However this could be described more as Uther has - a mosquito noise. Like a billion tiny bugs flying around in the scene, I personally would not really call this film grain.



Yes, definitely mosquito noise - your description is spot on. Sounds like several of us have noticed it, which makes me think it is in the source material or a fundamental issue in the projector. It would be strange for all of us to see the same issue because of the same defect in the same time period. While not impossible, that is an awfully small sample size to have the exact same defect. 

Here’s a thought: Marco if you have access to Batman Begins on BluRay, watch and see if you see it as well. I also saw it heavily in certain scenes of Transformers: Age of Extinction, particularly in the blue sky when they are at the farm house and in the scene where the girl is trapped in the car on the road before being abducted. If all three of us see it in the same spots, it’s probably the source. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## marcosphoto

Uther said:


> Yes, definitely mosquito noise - your description is spot on. Sounds like several of us have noticed it, which makes me think it is in the source material or a fundamental issue in the projector. It would be strange for all of us to see the same issue because of the same defect in the same time period. While not impossible, that is an awfully small sample size to have the exact same defect.
> 
> Here’s a thought: Marco if you have access to Batman Begins on BluRay, watch and see if you see it as well. I also saw it heavily in certain scenes of Transformers: Age of Extinction, particularly in the blue sky when they are at the farm house and in the scene where the girl is trapped in the car on the road before being abducted. If all three of us see it in the same spots, it’s probably the source.



I don't have any of those titles on BR, my BR library is not huge yet as I only bought my first player (820) last year. Until then I had an OppoDVD which upconverted to 720 wonderfully and played with brilliance on my panasonic projector. Still, even if we were to have the same symptoms on the same movies - it doesn't prove that there is some fault with the source. It would only prove that something in our chain of tech is designed in such a way to amplify the problem, be it in the source or elsewhere. We all agree that we've never seen it before, so that brings it down to our current components including the 5040. If other people who have witnessed it with other bluray players, this would help eliminate the player from the equation. As I am new to bluray, I cannot comment on the player. Perhaps you can eliminate the player from the scenario?


----------



## marcosphoto

Uther said:


> Here’s a thought: Marco if you have access to Batman Begins on BluRay, watch and see if you see it as well. I also saw it heavily in certain scenes of Transformers: Age of Extinction, particularly in the blue sky when they are at the farm house and in the scene where the girl is trapped in the car on the road before being abducted. If all three of us see it in the same spots, it’s probably the source.


Correction, I do have batman begins on BR. However my opinion remains, I see it a great deal on most BR disks I watch at some point or another in the movie. I don't think I really need to pop it in to confirm, I'd bet my life on the fact I will find it with ease. I saw it on all 3 Craig Bond films we just went though. I know at the beginning they intentionally added film noise, but later in the film there was many scenes with this mosquito noise.


----------



## macming

Thank you for these settings! I tried a few calibrations from this thread and yours works the best for my room. I have a bat cave with a white 4K fabric from XYScreens and now the image is fantastic! 




robc1976 said:


> Here are the settings. This was well over 15hrs and, multiple attempts of Calibrating with i1pro and HCFR
> 
> The gamma tracks very close if not right on the 2084 gamma curve in most areas. Contrast clipped around 3400 nits.
> 
> I see highlights I have never seen before and detail is amazing. Best picture I have seen on this projector or in my room. This is not a over saturated picture with tons of bright colors, its accurate colors.
> 
> Keep in mind these settings may not look good in your room, my room and screen may be very different. The faintest light can throw off a Calibration by miles.
> 
> Room: dedicated theater, with black walls, black carpet, black ceiling with 0 light.
> 
> Screen: Stewart Cima Neueve 156"
> 
> Everything I took pics of except gamma as it didn't show the value.
> 
> Gamma: 0,2,2,5,21,29,31,31,31
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## mumbleypeg

Hi All, Been on AVS for years, but haven't posted for a long time! My 5020 started displaying vertical lines where red was not being emitted which resulted in bluish lines on the screen. I now have a 5040. I Have noticed a tremendous improvement in 3D, but I am so far disappointed by the pixel shifting. I was expecting to be able to move my seating position closer to the screen and not be able to see any "screen-door." To be specific when there is white or bright light on screen the pixel grid shows up. Are there any settings that would improve this? I have oppo udp-203 outputting 4k. So far settings are mostly factory. using Bright Cinema for HDR.


----------



## macming

mumbleypeg said:


> Hi All, Been on AVS for years, My 5020 started displaying vertical lines where red was not being emitted which resulted in bluish lines on the screen. I now have a 5040. I Have noticed a tremendous improvement in 3D, but I am so far disappointed by the pixel shifting. I was expecting to be able to move my seating position closer to the screen and not be able to see any "screen-door." To be specific when there is white or bright light on screen the pixel grid shows up. Are there any settings that would improve this?


I upgraded from an ancient 6500UB and I didn't see any change to the "screen-door" behavior. Ultimately 5040 is a 1080P panel, so I expected no change in terms of image quality related to resolution. 

While the 5040UB is much sharper, the black levels are about the same as my 6500UB. It's tough to win it all!


----------



## noob00224

mumbleypeg said:


> Hi All, Been on AVS for years, but haven't posted for a long time! My 5020 started displaying vertical lines where red was not being emitted which resulted in bluish lines on the screen. I now have a 5040. I Have noticed a tremendous improvement in 3D, but I am so far disappointed by the pixel shifting. I was expecting to be able to move my seating position closer to the screen and not be able to see any "screen-door." To be specific when there is white or bright light on screen the pixel grid shows up. Are there any settings that would improve this? I have oppo udp-203 outputting 4k. So far settings are mostly factory. using Bright Cinema for HDR.


How big is the screen and how far away is the seating?

Are you using 1080p s with the 4K enhancement or a 4K source?


----------



## Stephen1254

*Dark Scenes Lack Detail?*

My 5040 is about 2.5 years old, and has about 1100 hours on it. Used in a completely dark room. Picture settings are from the factory, with only very minor tweaking of brightness. About a month ago I noticed that dark scenes had lost their detail, while lighter scenes were just fine. While difficult to describe, a dark scene shows the outline of people, but none of the detail in their faces that used to be present.

I've since gone through a variety of settings, including multiple color modes, and used the Disney Wow disc to calibrate, all without having any real effect on the picture. I experimented with bumping gamma up, which slightly improved the dark detail at the expense of washing out the picture in brighter scenes. I even replaced the projector bulb, even though the bulb only had about 200 hours on it. Nothing has made a difference.

I want to emphasize that the change in the picture came about all of a sudden, without any change in picture settings, and is consistent with multiple sources. Has anyone experienced anything like this with their 5040?


----------



## inspector

Stephen1254 said:


> My 5040 is about 2.5 years old, and has about 1100 hours on it. Used in a completely dark room. Picture settings are from the factory, with only very minor tweaking of brightness. About a month ago I noticed that dark scenes had lost their detail, while lighter scenes were just fine. While difficult to describe, a dark scene shows the outline of people, but none of the detail in their faces that used to be present.
> 
> I've since gone through a variety of settings, including multiple color modes, and used the Disney Wow disc to calibrate, all without having any real effect on the picture. I experimented with bumping gamma up, which slightly improved the dark detail at the expense of washing out the picture in brighter scenes. I even replaced the projector bulb, even though the bulb only had about 200 hours on it. Nothing has made a difference.
> 
> I want to emphasize that the change in the picture came about all of a sudden, without any change in picture settings, and is consistent with multiple sources. Has anyone experienced anything like this with their 5040?



Just PMd you my settings that I finally use after going thru quite a few. Just go to the second portion "BD/SD NATURAL" Also included is my settings for B&W BD/SD; UHD; 3D; and if you have a Panny 420.


Hope this helps, or at least a start.


John


----------



## b_scott

I have the 5040UB (still packed until the theater is done)

I also have the Panny 820 UHD player

In order to get Dolby Vision's picture processing to show on the 5040UB, what do I need to do? Streaming, and also through UHD discs.


----------



## Nick Proell

macming said:


> I ordered mine last week and it was available even early this week. Keep on checking Epson's site and I'm sure it'll come back soon.


So bummed! I got a notification yesterday afternoon that the projector was in stock, 2 hours later it was gone. I didn't notice the email until I went to bed. I've been actively checking the site about every 20 minutes daily and missed the one time there was stock! Hopefully I don't have to wait another whole week!

On the plus side, my new receiver arrived yesterday, and two 12" powered subs, and my RSL C34E are in transit, as well as my speaker wire, HDMI, and banana plugs. Pretty soon I can start wiring stuff!


----------



## rajdori

inspector said:


> PM sent...hope it helps.
> 
> 
> John


Hi John, I have 5040ub for six months. But can you please share the link to recommended settings if that's what you referred above. 

Thx in advance.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## drock0221

Hello all,

I haven't had a chance to read all of the pages for this forum, but I am going to be getting my first projector and don't think I want to spend a fortune on it right now so looking at Epson refurbished. The ones I am debating between are 5040UB, 6040UB and 5050UB. I would prefer the 5040UB because of the refurbished price, but that one seems to be out of stock so that's why I am looking at the 6040UB refurbished, but really doesn't warrant the extra money than the 5040UB because you're not getting the extra lamp or ceiling mount with it. Unfortunately, Epson hasn't had any refurbished 5040UBs pop up lately.

I know the 5040 and 6040 have HDR limitations, but will HDR still work for the most part if I were to play some of my UHD discs, like the Martian, Halloween, etc.? If so, is it going to be that much worse than the 5050UB? I do plan to watch a lot of HDR content, but looking at the 5050UB pricing and getting that high, I can actually get a JVC pixel shift for about the price of the 5050UB or a B stock JVC NX5 or Sony 295ES, which won't have any HDR limitations.


Appreciate any feedback.


----------



## inspector

rajdori said:


> Hi John, I have 5040ub for six months. But can you please share the link to recommended settings if that's what you referred above.
> 
> Thx in advance.
> 
> Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


Sent info thru PM. Any questions, just PM.


John


----------



## mumbleypeg

noob00224 said:


> How big is the screen and how far away is the seating?
> 
> Are you using 1080p s with the 4K enhancement or a 4K source?


Screen is 10' wide and we are 10' back. 4k source/4k enhancement.


----------



## DerKonig

Hey guys, im looking into the 5040ub right now and i have a question, right now my HDMI is 1.4 and i don't really want to fish an other one. So with an HDMI 1.4 on port 1 HDPC 2.2, will it work or i really need to change my wire?

Also port 2 is HDMI 1.4 only, will 4k without HDR still passtrough ? Im looking at the UBe also but it stall the signal at 1.4.

Also if my AMP is not HDPC 2.2 will i have problem getting the signal to the PJ? I have upgrader both of my TV to 4K with HDR and im ok with my projector only 4K and not HDR, for 4K it's basicly NetFlix via Roku Premier + (Not HDR my model).

All the help is welcome, tx guys


----------



## john hunter

b_scott said:


> I have the 5040UB (still packed until the theater is done)
> 
> I also have the Panny 820 UHD player
> 
> In order to get Dolby Vision's picture processing to show on the 5040UB, what do I need to do? Streaming, and also through UHD discs.


The 5040 does not do DV like most PJ's.
In fact I think only one of the JVC's do active tone mapping.
I expect the next generations of Epsons will follow suit.


----------



## noob00224

drock0221 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I haven't had a chance to read all of the pages for this forum, but I am going to be getting my first projector and don't think I want to spend a fortune on it right now so looking at Epson refurbished. The ones I am debating between are 5040UB, 6040UB and 5050UB. I would prefer the 5040UB because of the refurbished price, but that one seems to be out of stock so that's why I am looking at the 6040UB refurbished, but really doesn't warrant the extra money than the 5040UB because you're not getting the extra lamp or ceiling mount with it. Unfortunately, Epson hasn't had any refurbished 5040UBs pop up lately.
> 
> I know the 5040 and 6040 have HDR limitations, but will HDR still work for the most part if I were to play some of my UHD discs, like the Martian, Halloween, etc.? If so, is it going to be that much worse than the 5050UB? I do plan to watch a lot of HDR content, but looking at the 5050UB pricing and getting that high, I can actually get a JVC pixel shift for about the price of the 5050UB or a B stock JVC NX5 or Sony 295ES, which won't have any HDR limitations.
> 
> 
> Appreciate any feedback.


HDR tone mapping on these units is not great, especially on a big screen. Get a Panasonic UB420/820/9000.



mumbleypeg said:


> Screen is 10' wide and we are 10' back. 4k source/4k enhancement.


That's 1:1, or 10' with an 137" screen. Rather close.


----------



## macming

drock0221 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I haven't had a chance to read all of the pages for this forum, but I am going to be getting my first projector and don't think I want to spend a fortune on it right now so looking at Epson refurbished. The ones I am debating between are 5040UB, 6040UB and 5050UB. I would prefer the 5040UB because of the refurbished price, but that one seems to be out of stock so that's why I am looking at the 6040UB refurbished, but really doesn't warrant the extra money than the 5040UB because you're not getting the extra lamp or ceiling mount with it. Unfortunately, Epson hasn't had any refurbished 5040UBs pop up lately.
> 
> I know the 5040 and 6040 have HDR limitations, but will HDR still work for the most part if I were to play some of my UHD discs, like the Martian, Halloween, etc.? If so, is it going to be that much worse than the 5050UB? I do plan to watch a lot of HDR content, but looking at the 5050UB pricing and getting that high, I can actually get a JVC pixel shift for about the price of the 5050UB or a B stock JVC NX5 or Sony 295ES, which won't have any HDR limitations.
> 
> 
> Appreciate any feedback.


I lucked out and ended up for a 5040UB refurb. The image quality is not quite as good as my LG OLED upstairs, but it's so close that I don't care. If I were going to do it again, I'd still go down the same path and spend the difference on a better screen or buy more 4K movies. 

Again, I'm more interested in tweaking audio than calibrating video, and I'm more in the camp that believe HDR doesn't make a whole lot of sense on projectors.


----------



## macmanjpc

Hey all. Hoping for some advice. My 5040UB has been running great for the last couple years. It's in a dedicated theatre room so it's doesn't get daily use. Was watching a movie last week and out of nowhere the screen goes black. Epson Support was helpful and sent me a new bulb. Total hours on the bulb was just 1861 using ECO mode so it was pretty premature.

Today I received the new bulb. I installed it. Simple couple screws. Updated the firmware from 1.11 to 1.14. Turned the projector back on and I see these blobs on the screen. Figured the lens was dirty or something so I cleaned it with a lens pen from my camera kit to make sure it was spotless. Turned it back on and still blobs. Yellow/green ones.

Chatted with support and they can't explain it. Say it would have nothing to do with bulb replacement or firmware update. Suspect dust INSIDE the lens which they can't explain. The blobs appear as the bulb warms up/brightens, on a black background. Pic attached.

Any thoughts on how to fix this?


----------



## b_scott

john hunter said:


> b_scott said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the 5040UB (still packed until the theater is done)
> 
> I also have the Panny 820 UHD player
> 
> In order to get Dolby Vision's picture processing to show on the 5040UB, what do I need to do? Streaming, and also through UHD discs.
> 
> 
> 
> The 5040 does not do DV like most PJ's.
> In fact I think only one of the JVC's do active tone mapping.
> I expect the next generations of Epsons will follow suit.
Click to expand...

I know it doesn’t do DV but that’s why I got the Panny 820 which does tone map.


----------



## macming

macmanjpc said:


> Hey all. Hoping for some advice. My 5040UB has been running great for the last couple years. It's in a dedicated theatre room so it's doesn't get daily use. Was watching a movie last week and out of nowhere the screen goes black. Epson Support was helpful and sent me a new bulb. Total hours on the bulb was just 1861 using ECO mode so it was pretty premature.
> 
> Today I received the new bulb. I installed it. Simple couple screws. Updated the firmware from 1.11 to 1.14. Turned the projector back on and I see these blobs on the screen. Figured the lens was dirty or something so I cleaned it with a lens pen from my camera kit to make sure it was spotless. Turned it back on and still blobs. Yellow/green ones.
> 
> Chatted with support and they can't explain it. Say it would have nothing to do with bulb replacement or firmware update. Suspect dust INSIDE the lens which they can't explain. The blobs appear as the bulb warms up/brightens, on a black background. Pic attached.
> 
> Any thoughts on how to fix this?


I have similar blobs on my brand new refurb. I've been running my lamp and fan at high for the past couple of days. Hopefully they go away soon. Otherwise I might gamble and ask for a replacement.


----------



## john hunter

b_scott said:


> I know it doesn’t do DV but that’s why I got the Panny 820 which does tone map.


So why do you expect to see DV then on your Epson?
You can watch DV discs.
You need do nothing as the Panasonic player will automatically adjust to HDR 10.
Cheers


----------



## b_scott

john hunter said:


> So why do you expect to see DV then on your Epson?
> You can watch DV discs.
> You need do nothing as the Panasonic player will automatically adjust to HDR 10.
> Cheers


I expected the Panny to translate it and send the translated picture to the Epson. Same as Receivers decode bitstream and send PCM to devices.


----------



## marcosphoto

DerKonig said:


> Hey guys, im looking into the 5040ub right now and i have a question, right now my HDMI is 1.4 and i don't really want to fish an other one. So with an HDMI 1.4 on port 1 HDPC 2.2, will it work or i really need to change my wire?
> 
> Also port 2 is HDMI 1.4 only, will 4k without HDR still passtrough ? Im looking at the UBe also but it stall the signal at 1.4.
> 
> Also if my AMP is not HDPC 2.2 will i have problem getting the signal to the PJ? I have upgrader both of my TV to 4K with HDR and im ok with my projector only 4K and not HDR, for 4K it's basicly NetFlix via Roku Premier + (Not HDR my model).
> 
> All the help is welcome, tx guys


I had to buy a new AVR because of the HDCP - same scenario as you. You will not be able to pass 4K video - my BR player would downsample to 1080p. Either you will have to connect source direct to the PJ or buy a new AVR. MY 820 has a toggle to change it to HDCP1.4 compatibility, but that didn't work for me. Not sure how upgrader affects things.


----------



## DerKonig

marcosphoto said:


> I had to buy a new AVR because of the HDCP - same scenario as you. You will not be able to pass 4K video - my BR player would downsample to 1080p. Either you will have to connect source direct to the PJ or buy a new AVR. MY 820 has a toggle to change it to HDCP1.4 compatibility, but that didn't work for me. Not sure how upgrader affects things.


Did it work with your hdmi 1.4.


----------



## marcosphoto

DerKonig said:


> Did it work with your hdmi 1.4.


Not sure what your asking, thought I explained well. I could pass through only 1080p, the panasonic 820 would down-convert to 1080 without passing 4k or HDR. Even when I toggled the player to 1.4, it didn't make a difference. As the player downconverted to 1080p for me, I cannot comment on what other media or players will do, but as I could not pass through 4K HDR signals of any kind I decided to upgrade the AVR to an HDCP2.2 which works fine now.


----------



## DerKonig

marcosphoto said:


> Not sure what your asking, thought I explained well. I could pass through only 1080p, the panasonic 820 would down-convert to 1080 without passing 4k or HDR. Even when I toggled the player to 1.4, it didn't make a difference. As the player downconverted to 1080p for me, I cannot comment on what other media or players will do, but as I could not pass through 4K HDR signals of any kind I decided to upgrade the AVR to an HDCP2.2 which works fine now.


When you change your amp, is your hdmi cable running from the amp to the PJ is it hdmi 1.4 or you had to upgrade your wired?


----------



## drock0221

macming said:


> I lucked out and ended up for a 5040UB refurb. The image quality is not quite as good as my LG OLED upstairs, but it's so close that I don't care. If I were going to do it again, I'd still go down the same path and spend the difference on a better screen or buy more 4K movies.
> 
> Again, I'm more interested in tweaking audio than calibrating video, and I'm more in the camp that believe HDR doesn't make a whole lot of sense on projectors.


Thanks. Yeah I'm leaning towards going with a ST130 screen. I originally was looking at a Silver Ticket, but sounds like a good screen will make a tremendous difference.


----------



## marcosphoto

DerKonig said:


> When you change your amp, is your hdmi cable running from the amp to the PJ is it hdmi 1.4 or you had to upgrade your wired?


Oh I see what you're asking. When I built the theater, I had bought a no-name princess auto 4K HDR 3D approved cable, 35' long - can't remember the HDCP rating. Seems to be just fine.


----------



## drock0221

noob00224 said:


> HDR tone mapping on these units is not great, especially on a big screen. Get a Panasonic UB420/820/9000.
> 
> 
> 
> That's 1:1, or 10' with an 137" screen. Rather close.


Is the Sony x800 considered good for HDR tone mapping? That's what I have now in my living room, but I could look at getting another one for my new theatre room. I can't justify doing the 9000, but could do the Panasonic 820 if it is better than Sony's.


----------



## DerKonig

marcosphoto said:


> Oh I see what you're asking. When I built the theater, I had bought a no-name princess auto 4K HDR 3D approved cable, 35' long - can't remember the HDCP rating. Seems to be just fine.


I just order thr 4010 and i have 90 days to return it if i dont like it. I miss 2 5040ub in the last week, im coming of the 5030ub and il compare if the drop in black level of the 4010 is that bad or minor


----------



## macming

drock0221 said:


> Thanks. Yeah I'm leaning towards going with a ST130 screen. I originally was looking at a Silver Ticket, but sounds like a good screen will make a tremendous difference.


I bought a 4K XYScreen. It's pretty good so far and the picture is a lot more clear than the temp Elite screen that I put up.


----------



## b_scott

drock0221 said:


> Thanks. Yeah I'm leaning towards going with a ST130 screen. I originally was looking at a Silver Ticket, but sounds like a good screen will make a tremendous difference.


holy crap. $1500 for some cloth? yikes.



noob00224 said:


> That's 1:1, or 10' with an 137" screen. Rather close.


we will be about 10' back on the same size screen. What is the recommended ratio?


----------



## drock0221

macming said:


> I bought a 4K XYScreen. It's pretty good so far and the picture is a lot more clear than the temp Elite screen that I put up.


Yeah another reason I was going to go with a less expensive screen is because my basement isn't finished, but I have a room down there that is where this is going, but my goal is to slowly finish my basement. If I move it out into the main area of my basement, a bigger screen would definitely be in order. Just some factors I have to consider.


----------



## DerKonig

drock0221 said:


> Yeah another reason I was going to go with a less expensive screen is because my basement isn't finished, but I have a room down there that is where this is going, but my goal is to slowly finish my basement. If I move it out into the main area of my basement, a bigger screen would definitely be in order. Just some factors I have to consider.


I bought an elunevison 4k reference coming off ans elera II and im realy happy with my choice


----------



## macming

My refurb had a few dust blobs from day 1. I tried to run it on high power and high altitude mode, but the blobs are still here. I called Epson and they have a replacement unit coming next week. Hopefully the replacement is problem-free.


----------



## macmanjpc

macming said:


> My refurb had a few dust blobs from day 1. I tried to run it on high power and high altitude mode, but the blobs are still here. I called Epson and they have a replacement unit coming next week. Hopefully the replacement is problem-free.


I would suggest everyone check their units with a black background before warranty runs out. Epson refused to make an exception on my warranty status. Purchased the unit brand new (not refurb) in June 2017. Installed in September 2017 when construction on the theatre room was finally complete. Have logged 1861 hours and now it's garbage. $4,068 CDN after tax down the drain.

Buyer beware. I'll never own another Epson as long as I live. 😡


----------



## macming

macmanjpc said:


> I would suggest everyone check their units with a black background before warranty runs out. Epson refused to make an exception on my warranty status. Purchased the unit brand new (not refurb) in June 2017. Installed in September 2017 when construction on the theatre room was finally complete. Have logged 1861 hours and now it's garbage. $4,068 CDN after tax down the drain.
> 
> Buyer beware. I'll never own another Epson as long as I live. 😡


I'm sorry to hear that. I had an Epson 6500 that developed a green band and Epson next day'ed a replacement, so I don't have any complaints with Epson. When I bought the refurb, I'm mentally prepared to have to replace the unit a few times if I have to. 

What's wrong with yours?


----------



## macmanjpc

macming said:


> I'm sorry to hear that. I had an Epson 6500 that developed a green band and Epson next day'ed a replacement, so I don't have any complaints with Epson. When I bought the refurb, I'm mentally prepared to have to replace the unit a few times if I have to.
> 
> What's wrong with yours?


They said that it either the Light Engine or an LCD panel, unfortunately, Epson doesn't really know or particularly care. It's out of warranty period. They look at the date and case closed. This went through 3 CSRs, 2 Supervisors and 1 Manufacturer Rep. They're very apologetic and ensure me that this is very rare and almost never happens but bottom line won't support the product out of warranty. Lesson learned. From my perspective, a piece of electronics at this price should have better representation and backing of a manufacturer when something rare or uncommon goes wrong and renders a unit irreparable.


----------



## marcosphoto

marcosphoto said:


> Correction, I do have batman begins on BR. However my opinion remains, I see it a great deal on most BR disks I watch at some point or another in the movie. I don't think I really need to pop it in to confirm, I'd bet my life on the fact I will find it with ease. I saw it on all 3 Craig Bond films we just went though. I know at the beginning they intentionally added film noise, but later in the film there was many scenes with this mosquito noise.





macming said:


> On my 5040, I find older movies are grainy. Even when I watched Batman Begins in 4K this week, the video was very grainy. I just assumed it was the source material.
> 
> Thankfully on my unit, the brightness is consistent. I haven't noticed any issues yet.


Uther, I think I made some progress - although still can't tell how serious the problem is. Maybe the reason why no one has chimed in about the varying brightness is because no one is using ECO mode? Are you? There is no doubt the problem is getting worse, 10min into the next movie I couldn't stand it anymore so I decided to keep fiddling with any setting that might cause this effect. I changed the power mode from ECO to NORMAL, wouldn't you know - the problem went away. Still, I have my PJ setup and nice for ECO mode and don't understand why I am being forced now to use NORMAL. I wonder what the odds are that a bad bulb could cause this problem. Or perhaps something in the units H/W or F/W is not playing fair with bulb characteristics in ECO (maybe there is just not quite enough voltage and the bulb is not maintaining a hot enough temp?). Either way, want my ECO mode back. Now that I have pinpointed a fix, I'll contact Epson to try to find answers as to what is going wrong. I sure hope they don`t ask me to bring it to a service center. I'm sure they'll just turn it on quick then write "no faults found" on the work order. I have low hopes, tech support is horrible and usually they take you for a fool - or don't know much themselves.


----------



## roland6465

macming said:


> My refurb had a few dust blobs from day 1. I tried to run it on high power and high altitude mode, but the blobs are still here. I called Epson and they have a replacement unit coming next week. Hopefully the replacement is problem-free.



Three of my four refurb replacements had dust blobs. Unacceptable for replacement of a new unit. I can't believe that Epson's "Light Engine" isn't in a sealed configuration.


----------



## noob00224

b_scott said:


> holy crap. $1500 for some cloth? yikes.
> 
> 
> 
> we will be about 10' back on the same size screen. What is the recommended ratio?


The best way to find out the right screen size is to test it live. Sharpness perception is a combination of many factors. It's a complicated issue. Check out @ bud16415's posts.



macmanjpc said:


> Hey all. Hoping for some advice. My 5040UB has been running great for the last couple years. It's in a dedicated theatre room so it's doesn't get daily use. Was watching a movie last week and out of nowhere the screen goes black. Epson Support was helpful and sent me a new bulb. Total hours on the bulb was just 1861 using ECO mode so it was pretty premature.
> 
> Today I received the new bulb. I installed it. Simple couple screws. Updated the firmware from 1.11 to 1.14. Turned the projector back on and I see these blobs on the screen. Figured the lens was dirty or something so I cleaned it with a lens pen from my camera kit to make sure it was spotless. Turned it back on and still blobs. Yellow/green ones.
> 
> Chatted with support and they can't explain it. Say it would have nothing to do with bulb replacement or firmware update. Suspect dust INSIDE the lens which they can't explain. The blobs appear as the bulb warms up/brightens, on a black background. Pic attached.
> 
> Any thoughts on how to fix this?


It's better not to clean the outside of the lens:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d.../3142812-should-you-clean-projector-lens.html

Those look like dust blobs. Not sure about Epson, but Benq has a service to clean units for a small amount. DO NOT blow compressed air into the projector. Try High Altitude for a while. Clean the filter regularly. 3LCD requires airflow over the chips, unlike DLP/LCoS. 
You can clean it yourself if you feel confident, there are many videos of 3LCD cleaning.



drock0221 said:


> Is the Sony x800 considered good for HDR tone mapping? That's what I have now in my living room, but I could look at getting another one for my new theatre room. I can't justify doing the 9000, but could do the Panasonic 820 if it is better than Sony's.



Don't have either. Users claim the Panasonic is superior.


----------



## macming

roland6465 said:


> Three of my four refurb replacements had dust blobs. Unacceptable for replacement of a new unit. I can't believe that Epson's "Light Engine" isn't in a sealed configuration.


Wow that is scary to hear. I'm debating if I want to even try to go through multiple replacements.


----------



## macming

noob00224 said:


> Those look like dust blobs. Not sure about Epson, but Benq has a service to clean units for a small amount. DO NOT blow compressed air into the projector. Try High Altitude for a while. Clean the filter regularly. 3LCD requires airflow over the chips, unlike DLP/LCoS.
> You can clean it yourself if you feel confident, there are many videos of 3LCD cleaning.


Emm... if my replacement still has dust blobs, I might try my hand at 3LCD cleaning.


----------



## noob00224

macming said:


> Emm... if my replacement still has dust blobs, I might try my hand at 3LCD cleaning.


That will probably void the warranty.


----------



## macming

noob00224 said:


> That will probably void the warranty.


I found this 



 and it seems pretty straight forward. I'm going to try a few replacement units first. Worst case scenario, I'll live with the dust blobs until the warranty expires. 

How often do you clean the projector filter?


----------



## noob00224

macming said:


> I found this video and it seems pretty straight forward. I'm going to try a few replacement units first. Worst case scenario, I'll live with the dust blobs until the warranty expires.
> 
> How often do you clean the projector filter?


If it's in warranty, can't Epson clean it, not replace it?

Not sure how often, check the manual. Depends on the environment as well.


----------



## macming

noob00224 said:


> If it's in warranty, can't Epson clean it, not replace it?
> 
> Not sure how often, check the manual. Depends on the environment as well.


If Epson was sending out new units, I'd totally agree. It sounds like Epson is not sending out very high-quality replacements. There are stories about refurb units being in really bad shape. For example, one member reported the IRIS does not work, there was another story that they got a unit with 1000s of hours on the lamp, ...etc. 

I don't mind going through a few units, but after a while, it's a waste of my time to keep calling Epson. 

My unit is in a dedicated theatre, so I'm going to try to clean it every 100 hours. It seems like heat is the #1 enemy for projectors.


----------



## dimi123

macming said:


> I found this video and it seems pretty straight forward. I'm going to try a few replacement units first. Worst case scenario, I'll live with the dust blobs until the warranty expires.
> 
> How often do you clean the projector filter?


The 5040/6040/9300 is much more complicated to disassemble than the 5030/6030/9200.
I clean my filter once a week just in case. Always cover up the hole when you take out the dust filter for cleaning.


----------



## noob00224

macming said:


> If Epson was sending out new units, I'd totally agree. It sounds like Epson is not sending out very high-quality replacements. There are stories about refurb units being in really bad shape. For example, one member reported the IRIS does not work, there was another story that they got a unit with 1000s of hours on the lamp, ...etc.
> 
> I don't mind going through a few units, but after a while, it's a waste of my time to keep calling Epson.
> 
> My unit is in a dedicated theatre, so I'm going to try to clean it every 100 hours. It seems like heat is the #1 enemy for projectors.


These units can get dust blobs even if they don't have them to begin with. That's what I was trying to say about Epson servicing them.


----------



## macming

noob00224 said:


> These units can get dust blobs even if they don't have them to begin with. That's what I was trying to say about Epson servicing them.


Got it. That makes a lot of sense.


----------



## b_scott

noob00224 said:


> The best way to find out the right screen size is to test it live. Sharpness perception is a combination of many factors. It's a complicated issue. Check out @ bud16415's posts.


I tested it live before I started my build and it seemed OK. But I'd like the optimal I guess. Then again if I liked it I guess I liked it. I'll probably project on a blank white wall before I paint it and see if it still looks OK.


----------



## antec121

I have a chance to pick up a 5040ub used for $950. Should I jump on this or play the waiting game for refurbished units to show up again. It has 600 hours on the lamp.


----------



## noob00224

antec121 said:


> I have a chance to pick up a 5040ub used for $950. Should I jump on this or play the waiting game for refurbished units to show up again. It has 600 hours on the lamp.


Not worth loosing warranty, it's a small difference.


----------



## antec121

Thinking the same thing, I should've jumped on the 5040ube refurbished unit 2 days ago. Haven't seen any pop up since. Just getting impatient haha


----------



## tibimakai

Be patient. They will show up.


----------



## Uther

marcosphoto said:


> Uther, I think I made some progress - although still can't tell how serious the problem is. Maybe the reason why no one has chimed in about the varying brightness is because no one is using ECO mode? Are you? There is no doubt the problem is getting worse, 10min into the next movie I couldn't stand it anymore so I decided to keep fiddling with any setting that might cause this effect. I changed the power mode from ECO to NORMAL, wouldn't you know - the problem went away. Still, I have my PJ setup and nice for ECO mode and don't understand why I am being forced now to use NORMAL. I wonder what the odds are that a bad bulb could cause this problem. Or perhaps something in the units H/W or F/W is not playing fair with bulb characteristics in ECO (maybe there is just not quite enough voltage and the bulb is not maintaining a hot enough temp?). Either way, want my ECO mode back. Now that I have pinpointed a fix, I'll contact Epson to try to find answers as to what is going wrong. I sure hope they don`t ask me to bring it to a service center. I'm sure they'll just turn it on quick then write "no faults found" on the work order. I have low hopes, tech support is horrible and usually they take you for a fool - or don't know much themselves.



I’m not using eco mode. I haven’t had the issue with brightness, just grain. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## marcosphoto

antec121 said:


> I have a chance to pick up a 5040ub used for $950. Should I jump on this or play the waiting game for refurbished units to show up again. It has 600 hours on the lamp.


 Maybe the wrong thread to say this in, but perhaps you should think about getting a JVC? My experience with the 5040 is borderline, a bunch of negative quirks and some not addressed by Epson. Seems reliability is not the best to begin with and the refurb roulette a larger issue still. Then, factor in horrible Epson support. I have not even owned mine 1 year, have issues with the unit and I'm scared to send it in for repair. I can only compare to my old Panasonic PTAX, but while I thought I had a couple issues with that over 10 years - seems people have far more costly and serious issues with the 5040 over far fewer years. 

One vendor told me they try to not sell Epson, pushing people towards JVC since they are similar price points. They said JVC might not always be more reliable at the start, but they insist that once there is a known issue JVC addresses it permanently by admission to the problem. They also said usually the JVC fails during warranty and during that time they always make repairs that address future epidemics. There have been instances where JVC has put stop-sales on products to address discovered issues, whereas it seems Epson just puts stuff on sale to get rid of it faster. You will get no admission of problems from Epson I assure you, although I cannot comment on the real-life performance and reliability of the JVC either.

Again, not based on my personal facts but what I've been told and read here. Take this info with a grain of salt and do your due diligence.


----------



## blastermaster

marcosphoto said:


> Maybe the wrong thread to say this in, but perhaps you should think about getting a JVC? My experience with the 5040 is borderline, a bunch of negative quirks and some not addressed by Epson. Seems reliability is not the best to begin with and the refurb roulette a larger issue still. Then, factor in horrible Epson support. I have not even owned mine 1 year, have issues with the unit and I'm scared to send it in for repair. I can only compare to my old Panasonic PTAX, but while I thought I had a couple issues with that over 10 years - seems people have far more costly and serious issues with the 5040 over far fewer years.
> 
> One vendor told me they try to not sell Epson, pushing people towards JVC since they are similar price points. They said JVC might not always be more reliable at the start, but they insist that once there is a known issue JVC addresses it permanently by admission to the problem. They also said usually the JVC fails during warranty and during that time they always make repairs that address future epidemics. There have been instances where JVC has put stop-sales on products to address discovered issues, whereas it seems Epson just puts stuff on sale to get rid of it faster. You will get no admission of problems from Epson I assure you, although I cannot comment on the real-life performance and reliability of the JVC either.
> 
> Again, not based on my personal facts but what I've been told and read here. Take this info with a grain of salt and do your due diligence.


Dangit! This is what I'm worried about. I'm looking at getting a refurbished Epson 6040 as I know it will throw a nicer, richer image than my current DLP or really any DLP in that price range (Optoma UHD50x is what I'm also looking at). However, my Optoma has lasted 9 years with no problems until now and it's not even that bad (slightly darker spot in the lower corner). Anyone know if refurbished units are guaranteed to have no dead pixels? I can't afford to gamble on it as my wife is not super on board with an upgrade, so I kinda have to do it right the first time. Not sure what to do...


----------



## ana_moo_ana

Hi guys, guess it’s time to replace the lamp for me. There are several in eBay selling from 99$-180$ and claiming to be genuine OME Epson bulb. Any idea what is the best place to buy replacement bulb?


----------



## b_scott

ana_moo_ana said:


> Hi guys, guess it’s time to replace the lamp for me. There are several in eBay selling from 99$-180$ and claiming to be genuine OME Epson bulb. Any idea what is the best place to buy replacement bulb?


https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1369025-REG/just_lamps_elplp89_original_lamp_for_epson.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRKLC...colid=VOJ72MWY6OAK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


----------



## camtah

blastermaster said:


> Dangit! This is what I'm worried about. I'm looking at getting a refurbished Epson 6040 as I know it will throw a nicer, richer image than my current DLP or really any DLP in that price range (Optoma UHD50x is what I'm also looking at). However, my Optoma has lasted 9 years with no problems until now and it's not even that bad (slightly darker spot in the lower corner). Anyone know if refurbished units are guaranteed to have no dead pixels? I can't afford to gamble on it as my wife is not super on board with an upgrade, so I kinda have to do it right the first time. Not sure what to do...


I have a month old 6040 I picked up thru the refurb program. This is my first Epson. It replaced a Panasonic AE8000 that is still running great to this day on the original bulb
I also purchased a NIB JVC that arrived DOA from a AV member. Luckily I was able to return it, but i am not able to give you my impressions of that unit.

For the cost difference between the Epson and the JVC, I thought it was worth the gamble to go for the 5040/6040 refurb. I looked at it as buying a used project with warranty with the price to match. Mine arrived working fine, but did notice what I thought was a scratch on the lens towards the outside of the lens. However I did not notice any issue with the picture. It appeared that the scratch was out of the "lens line of fire". I can live with it and will not test Epson's Customer service on this issue.

My point is that for a pixel shifter and comparing it to my 1080p project, ti works quite well. Yes it does lack the 18GHz hdmi, but I don't game and I am starting to believe that HDR on a projector is not all it's cracked up to be at this time. I look at it as a cheap place holder until a real 4k with HDR that works and IS affordable comes my way.

Bottom Line: So far it is working great for me, although I have not watched any live sports on it given the current situation.

Please note that I am not putting down the JVC. I really want to try it out, but it didn't work out for me. Then again it was twice the price and replacement bulbs are $$$ if you use the PJ a lot.


----------



## b_scott

marcosphoto said:


> Maybe the wrong thread to say this in, but perhaps you should think about getting a JVC?


No offense, but it is the wrong thread, IMO. Pretty much anyone would want a JVC is cost was no issue. You're not buying Epson over JVC for the heck of it. It's because JVC's are 3x-10x more expensive. That's why you go with the next best thing.


----------



## marcosphoto

blastermaster said:


> Dangit! This is what I'm worried about. I'm looking at getting a refurbished Epson 6040 as I know it will throw a nicer, richer image than my current DLP or really any DLP in that price range (Optoma UHD50x is what I'm also looking at). However, my Optoma has lasted 9 years with no problems until now and it's not even that bad (slightly darker spot in the lower corner). Anyone know if refurbished units are guaranteed to have no dead pixels? I can't afford to gamble on it as my wife is not super on board with an upgrade, so I kinda have to do it right the first time. Not sure what to do...





b_scott said:


> No offense, but it is the wrong thread, IMO. Pretty much anyone would want a JVC is cost was no issue. You're not buying Epson over JVC for the heck of it. It's because JVC's are 3x-10x more expensive. That's why you go with the next best thing.


I dunno guys, I'm looking at some really decent JVC's on the web right now and they are not that much more than a 5040 refurb. However at the high failure rate, poor customer support and the fact that HDR is almost not worth using you can pick up some other models very close in price. I'm not an expert on the PJ market, but at this point I would almost consider it worth it to buy another model. The JVC LX-UH1 is selling for $2250 brand new while the brand new 5050 is $4000 - I am sure the JVC is a great projector. The LX-UH1 is 4K/60p, 4:4:4/36bit, 4K/60p 4:2:2/36bit, and 4K/24p 4:4:4/36bit signals. The epson - not! For almost the same price as the 5050, you can buy a lazer version of JVC, the LXNZ3B which looks spectacular.

My 5040 less than 1 year old with 350 hours, bought it brand new and now have to send it in for repair already. I regret not getting a JVC myself, even though I'm sure they are not perfect either.


----------



## noob00224

marcosphoto said:


> I dunno guys, I'm looking at some really decent JVC's on the web right now and they are not that much more than a 5040 refurb. However at the high failure rate, poor customer support and the fact that HDR is almost not worth using you can pick up some other models very close in price. I'm not an expert on the PJ market, but at this point I would almost consider it worth it to buy another model. The JVC LX-UH1 is selling for $2250 brand new while the brand new 5050 is $4000 - I am sure the JVC is a great projector. The LX-UH1 is 4K/60p, 4:4:4/36bit, 4K/60p 4:2:2/36bit, and 4K/24p 4:4:4/36bit signals. The epson - not! For almost the same price as the 5050, you can buy a lazer version of JVC, the LXNZ3B which looks spectacular.
> 
> My 5040 less than 1 year old with 350 hours, bought it brand new and now have to send it in for repair already. I regret not getting a JVC myself, even though I'm sure they are not perfect either.


The JVCs you mentioned are DLPs with typical DLP contrast and black level. When people talk about JVC, those are not it. 

With Epson at least you have warranty.


----------



## camtah

marcosphoto said:


> I dunno guys, I'm looking at some really decent JVC's on the web right now and they are not that much more than a 5040 refurb. However at the high failure rate, poor customer support and the fact that HDR is almost not worth using you can pick up some other models very close in price. I'm not an expert on the PJ market, but at this point I would almost consider it worth it to buy another model. The JVC LX-UH1 is selling for $2250 brand new while the brand new *5050* is $4000 - I am sure the JVC is a great projector. The LX-UH1 is 4K/60p, 4:4:4/36bit, 4K/60p 4:2:2/36bit, and 4K/24p 4:4:4/36bit signals. The epson - not! For almost the same price as the 5050, you can buy a lazer version of JVC, the LXNZ3B which looks spectacular.
> 
> My 5040 less than 1 year old with 350 hours, bought it brand new and now have to send it in for repair already. I regret not getting a JVC myself, even though I'm sure they are not perfect either.


Are you referring to the 6050 or the 5050 here? The 5050 is not $4K


----------



## macming

marcosphoto said:


> Maybe the wrong thread to say this in, but perhaps you should think about getting a JVC? My experience with the 5040 is borderline, a bunch of negative quirks and some not addressed by Epson. Seems reliability is not the best to begin with and the refurb roulette a larger issue still. Then, factor in horrible Epson support. I have not even owned mine 1 year, have issues with the unit and I'm scared to send it in for repair. I can only compare to my old Panasonic PTAX, but while I thought I had a couple issues with that over 10 years - seems people have far more costly and serious issues with the 5040 over far fewer years.
> 
> One vendor told me they try to not sell Epson, pushing people towards JVC since they are similar price points. They said JVC might not always be more reliable at the start, but they insist that once there is a known issue JVC addresses it permanently by admission to the problem. They also said usually the JVC fails during warranty and during that time they always make repairs that address future epidemics. There have been instances where JVC has put stop-sales on products to address discovered issues, whereas it seems Epson just puts stuff on sale to get rid of it faster. You will get no admission of problems from Epson I assure you, although I cannot comment on the real-life performance and reliability of the JVC either.
> 
> Again, not based on my personal facts but what I've been told and read here. Take this info with a grain of salt and do your due diligence.


I looked heavily into getting a JVC before I bought my 5040. From my research, JVCs have their own failures and are by no means perfect. Plus their replacement bulbs are around $600 each. 

FWIW, if my 5040 dies in a couple of years, I'll just pick up another refurb Epson. It won't be the best looking projector, but it's pretty damn good and I didn't spend $5-10K on something that'll be outdated in a few years.


----------



## b_scott

noob00224 said:


> The JVCs you mentioned are DLPs with typical DLP contrast and black level. When people talk about JVC, those are not it.
> 
> With Epson at least you have warranty.


Yes, I should have specified. For JVC's on the same level as Epson, Epson refurbs vs. JVC lowest retail, is like a $3000 difference.


----------



## marcosphoto

camtah said:


> Are you referring to the 6050 or the 5050 here? The 5050 is not $4K





macming said:


> I looked heavily into getting a JVC before I bought my 5040. From my research, JVCs have their own failures and are by no means perfect. Plus their replacement bulbs are around $600 each.
> 
> FWIW, if my 5040 dies in a couple of years, I'll just pick up another refurb Epson. It won't be the best looking projector, but it's pretty damn good and I didn't spend $5-10K on something that'll be outdated in a few years.





b_scott said:


> Yes, I should have specified. For JVC's on the same level as Epson, Epson refurbs vs. JVC lowest retail, is like a $3000 difference.


This is Canadian current pricing right off a vendor website. If you read these older reviews: 

https://www.tvspecialists.com/jvc-lx-uh1-vs-epson-5040ub-vs-optoma-uhd65/

or
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-5040ub-vs-Optoma-UHD65-review.htm


You'll see that all 3 of these projectors were compared head to head, with the Optoma almost seeming to take the lead. Right now the 5040 is NLA brand new, but the refurb is $1500cdn. The 5050 sells for $4000cdn on sale. The JVC LXUH1 is $2250cdn on sale and the Optoma UHD65 is $3500cdn not on sale. Of the 3 compared head to head, they concluded that the 5040 was more or less on par with the JVC and the Optoma took the lead by a smidge overall. 

So yes, the refurb is the cheapest, but for a discount you are entering into the horrible refurb roulette - and they're not the best projector even brand new. Factor in horrific customer support and I understand the JVC has some setup things included to help you set up the picture. I know the 5040 won a lot of people over for pure value, but is it worth buying something that will likely cause you grief? Maybe just suck it up and hold out another year or two as real 4k HDR projectors become commonplace. Now that I re-read these reviews, perhaps I should have got the Optoma instead of the Epson. What I do know is that Epson service and product has not really won me over, I will certainly consider other brands over the Epson next time around. I'm not looking forward to being without mine for a few weeks when I send it out for repair with under 400 hours on it!


----------



## b_scott

marcosphoto said:


> I'm not looking forward to being without mine for a few weeks when I send it out for repair with under 400 hours on it!


Sorry, it just sounds like you're upset with your purchase. Which is understandable. But that doesn't really justify coming into an owners' thread and trying to dissuade people from buying the projectors that they obviously like as this is an owner's thread, not a refurb pricing thread. I bought a refurb and tested it about 10 hours before starting my build, and it looked stellar. The bulb had zero hours on it. Sure there may be a few lemons, but overall I don't think it's really widespread. The squeaky wheel gets the grease, and also writes the reviews. DLP vs 3LCD is also not apples to apples.

In this forum, if you're interested in a JVC you're probably looking at the $5K+ models. The 5040UB even brand new is less than half that.


----------



## blastermaster

Well, despite some of the negativity here, I pulled the trigger and bought a refurb 6040UB from Epson Canada Clearance center. I loved my DLP, but the blacks and contrast are piss poor and I'm sorry, but I doubt you'll get a picture that comes even close to the 6040 on DLP with a comparable price. It has super easy placement flexibility which DLP's don't typically have, and this one has anamorphic mode so I can still use my anamorphic lens to keep the brightness on my scope screen. Yes, I'm a bit worried about dust blobs and failure rate (bloody hell, why can't they seal the light path like DLP?), but it does have a 3 year warranty and I will milk it if I have to in order to get a properly working unit. Wish me luck. I will post some before and after pics (no, it's not fair as I have an older DLP model in the Optoma HD3300, but it is what it is). Stay tuned!


----------



## marcosphoto

antec121 said:


> I have a chance to pick up a 5040ub used for $950. Should I jump on this or play the waiting game for refurbished units to show up again. It has 600 hours on the lamp.





b_scott said:


> Sorry, it just sounds like you're upset with your purchase. Which is understandable. But that doesn't really justify coming into an owners' thread and trying to dissuade people from buying the projectors that they obviously like as this is an owner's thread, not a refurb pricing thread. I bought a refurb and tested it about 10 hours before starting my build, and it looked stellar. The bulb had zero hours on it. Sure there may be a few lemons, but overall I don't think it's really widespread. The squeaky wheel gets the grease, and also writes the reviews. DLP vs 3LCD is also not apples to apples.
> In this forum, if you're interested in a JVC you're probably looking at the $5K+ models. The 5040UB even brand new is less than half that.


While it seems I'm just on a rant - in fact all I have answered "Antec" with my opinion. I've done nothing wrong or inappropriate here, except to try to educate people including links from authoritative sources. This thread is for the Epson units, and the center of the conversation is the Epson unit. Without reference to put everything in prospective, how can anyone say we are doing justice to the thread? Right now in Canada the JVC is $750 more brand new than the Epson refurb which is not huge considering you get a brand new unit. Also, the websites compared these units head to head and rated them extremely close in performance (of course with each having pros and cons). Your opinion that I have not compared apples to apples appears incorrect as people who get paid to review these things say otherwise. As I said, I am no expert - which is why I have offered the links to people who are. I may be on a rant, but how many people have you counted regarding the Epson refurb routlette? The list is huge, on almost every page there is negative comments on them. How should we have done justice to "Antec"s question, simply say "no" and let him figure out why on his own? 

Sorry for appearing rude, I guess I took the comment more personal than I should have. In conclusion, when I ask people for help, I expect them to help me with fact and experience - not give me what I want to hear to shut me up.


----------



## b_scott

marcosphoto said:


> I may be on a rant, but how many people have you counted regarding the Epson refurb routlette?


I count in this thread, the thread for the refurb purchasing:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...9050-refurbished-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a.html

As of late there have been a few people with dust issues, but I've been on this thread for months and I haven't seen much more than that.

If you're looking to by an Epson refurb, you're looking to spend $1150, and get the same two year warranty that comes with it new. spending another 75% of that towards a JVC for "pretty much the exact some scores' as you say, doesn't seem cost effective at all. Cost effectiveness is the reason people by refurbs over new. Otherwise they would just buy new.


----------



## marcosphoto

b_scott said:


> I count in this thread, the thread for the refurb purchasing:
> If you're looking to by an Epson refurb, you're looking to spend $1150, and get the same two year warranty that comes with it new. spending another 75% of that towards a JVC for "pretty much the exact some scores' as you say, doesn't seem cost effective at all. Cost effectiveness is the reason people by refurbs over new. Otherwise they would just buy new.


You do of course make a good point, It's my personality if I'm going to spend a lot of money, I often will not go through with my original choice when I think about the fact I will have things for many years and a little more money will make all the difference.
I have a question for you as you have been doing lots of research in the refurb thread. Have you seen any comments about the 5040 brightness going up and down constantly? Mine is doing it on ECO, but then another person in the thread said his is doing it and is on NORMAL. It's driving my wife and I mad, have to get it repaired. I tried fiddling with iris settings and even turned it off then on and used HDMI2 also. When I set mine to NORMAL the problem finally went away, but considering the other member I imagine as it worsens it will start doing it on NORMAL too. None-the-less, my PJ is set up for ECO and would prefer to keep it there. It almost sounds like a bulb issue, but with 350 hours? Epson won't offer up any info, just said to either take a refurb (which I won't do) or send it in for repairs.


----------



## b_scott

marcosphoto said:


> You do of course make a good point, It's my personality if I'm going to spend a lot of money, I often will not go through with my original choice when I think about the fact I will have things for many years and a little more money will make all the difference.
> I have a question for you as you have been doing lots of research in the refurb thread. Have you seen any comments about the 5040 brightness going up and down constantly? Mine is doing it on ECO, but then another person in the thread said his is doing it and is on NORMAL. It's driving my wife and I mad, have to get it repaired. I tried fiddling with iris settings and even turned it off then on and used HDMI2 also. When I set mine to NORMAL the problem finally went away, but considering the other member I imagine as it worsens it will start doing it on NORMAL too. None-the-less, my PJ is set up for ECO and would prefer to keep it there. It almost sounds like a bulb issue, but with 350 hours? Epson won't offer up any info, just said to either take a refurb (which I won't do) or send it in for repairs.


I haven't, and I'm not expert on projectors - it sounds like a power conditioning issue though - what is your projector plugged into? Is there something power hungry on the same circuit like a refrigerator or A/C unit that might cycle on and off?


----------



## blastermaster

Alright, so I'm anxiously awaiting my refurbished 6040UB. I bought an Oppo 203 just before they went belly up in their blu ray player division (read: I bought it when it was a normal price). For those who have had a chance to compare the Oppo to the Panasonic 420 or 820, would it be beneficial for me to sell my Oppo and get one of those models to complement the 6040 or is the Oppo up to the task of making the 6040 look the best it can be?


----------



## sleepingatsea

Congrats blaster! The Oppo 203 is one heck of a player, but from the reviews I read the Panny 820 actually bests it in the PQ department. It's really the HDR optimiser that sets it apart though. This actually makes HDR usable and will make your 4k discs really shine.

The only area the Oppo still beats it is in network streaming. They can handle everything however the Panny won't do Atmos on mkv etc.

Now I don't have one, so this is just from reading and owning a Panny 820.

Cheers 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

blastermaster said:


> Alright, so I'm anxiously awaiting my refurbished 6040UB. I bought an Oppo 203 just before they went belly up in their blu ray player division (read: I bought it when it was a normal price). For those who have had a chance to compare the Oppo to the Panasonic 420 or 820, would it be beneficial for me to sell my Oppo and get one of those models to complement the 6040 or is the Oppo up to the task of making the 6040 look the best it can be?


As Brettmckinney said, a good tone mapper is essential if the source, disc or streaming, is HDR.


----------



## b_scott

wow I didn't realize Oppo died.


----------



## marcosphoto

b_scott said:


> I haven't, and I'm not expert on projectors - it sounds like a power conditioning issue though - what is your projector plugged into? Is there something power hungry on the same circuit like a refrigerator or A/C unit that might cycle on and off?


I highjacked a baseboard heater circuit that the house had when we moved in and built the theater. I am using the circuit strictly for A/V and nothing else - no lights, outlets, etc. If there was any problem at all, would have to be right from the panel - but I doubt it. Power conditioning is an interesting thought but as it does not happen on NORMAL I think it must reside as a problem within the unit.


----------



## TonytotheB

Hey folks. Long time lurker. Had my Epson 5040UB for about a year now. Recently I noticed a yellow area in the projected image. Weird. Its not the screen itself as it shrinks as I shrink the image. Tried changing bulbs. What are your suggestions? Projector is in warranty still

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1Az52YPORZvSzkSAptpMbYaMliHnV7HLK


----------



## macming

TonytotheB said:


> Hey folks. Long time lurker. Had my Epson 5040UB for about a year now. Recently I noticed a yellow area in the projected image. Weird. Its not the screen itself as it shrinks as I shrink the image. Tried changing bulbs. What are your suggestions? Projector is in warranty still
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1Az52YPORZvSzkSAptpMbYaMliHnV7HLK


Looks like your LCD panel may have started to fail. How often did you clean the filter? If there isn’t enough air flow, the lcds in the light engine tends to over heat and cause discolouration.

I’d call Epson and they’ll prob send you a replacement.


----------



## TonytotheB

macming said:


> Looks like your LCD panel may have started to fail. How often did you clean the filter? If there isn’t enough air flow, the lcds in the light engine tends to over heat and cause discolouration.
> 
> I’d call Epson and they’ll prob send you a replacement.


Thanks for the reply. I spoke to Epson and they said I am liable for the costs to fix it. I admitted I was the second owner of the projector. Perhaps I shouldn't. I cleaned it regularly but I guess maybe not enough

Is the LCD changeable?


----------



## ana_moo_ana

b_scott said:


> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1369025-REG/just_lamps_elplp89_original_lamp_for_epson.html
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRKLC...colid=VOJ72MWY6OAK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it



Much appreciated! I read mixed reviews for the YOSUN bulb, has anyone tried them?


----------



## macming

TonytotheB said:


> Thanks for the reply. I spoke to Epson and they said I am liable for the costs to fix it. I admitted I was the second owner of the projector. Perhaps I shouldn't. I cleaned it regularly but I guess maybe not enough
> 
> Is the LCD changeable?


I haven't researched the 5040 myself, but in the 5030 the entire light engine has to be replaced. Depending on how bad it is, I'd ask Epson how much a replacement light engine costs.


----------



## macming

ana_moo_ana said:


> Much appreciated! I read mixed reviews for the YOSUN bulb, has anyone tried them?


I've tried some random bulbs with high reviews with my older Epson projector and they just aren't great. If you can, I would stick with OE Epson bulbs. They are relatively inexpensive compared to JVC bulbs.


----------



## ana_moo_ana

macming said:


> I've tried some random bulbs with high reviews with my older Epson projector and they just aren't great. If you can, I would stick with OE Epson bulbs. They are relatively inexpensive compared to JVC bulbs.



I dont think I can buy it from Epson website (UK). Any place reliable to buy it from?


----------



## Xavier3

marcosphoto said:


> You do of course make a good point, It's my personality if I'm going to spend a lot of money, I often will not go through with my original choice when I think about the fact I will have things for many years and a little more money will make all the difference.
> I have a question for you as you have been doing lots of research in the refurb thread. Have you seen any comments about the 5040 brightness going up and down constantly? Mine is doing it on ECO, but then another person in the thread said his is doing it and is on NORMAL. It's driving my wife and I mad, have to get it repaired. I tried fiddling with iris settings and even turned it off then on and used HDMI2 also. When I set mine to NORMAL the problem finally went away, but considering the other member I imagine as it worsens it will start doing it on NORMAL too. None-the-less, my PJ is set up for ECO and would prefer to keep it there. It almost sounds like a bulb issue, but with 350 hours? Epson won't offer up any info, just said to either take a refurb (which I won't do) or send it in for repairs.


What you are experiencing is inherent in UHP Lamp projectors. I have had it at some point in varying severity with all 4 of my projectors over the last decade. 

These lamps when brand new, need to ideally be placed in High lamp mode to create a proper arch inside them, for many hours (I don’t remember exactly, but please google it or search this site for lamp flicker or fluctuation). Once set, you can now bring it down in power. The lower the power, the less stable the power flow can become inside the lamp.

So now that most of us probably didn’t do this, don’t fret. Put your PJ in high lamp mode for a week (I know the fans are loud, but they do spin down a bit afterwards, and this is for the greater good). Then you are kind of re-training the arch inside. Rinse and repeat if issue comes back.

Please forgive any inaccuracies to my electrician friends...this is just how I remember the info that helped me when my first DLP PJ developed a pretty annoying case of lamp brightness fluctuation.


----------



## noob00224

Xavier3 said:


> What you are experiencing is inherent in UHP Lamp projectors. I have had it at some point in varying severity with all 4 of my projectors over the last decade.
> 
> These lamps when brand new, need to ideally be placed in High lamp mode to create a proper arch inside them, for many hours (I don’t remember exactly, but please google it or search this site for lamp flicker or fluctuation). Once set, you can now bring it down in power. The lower the power, the less stable the power flow can become inside the lamp.
> 
> So now that most of us probably didn’t do this, don’t fret. Put your PJ in high lamp mode for a week (I know the fans are loud, but they do spin down a bit afterwards, and this is for the greater good). Then you are kind of re-training the arch inside. Rinse and repeat if issue comes back.
> 
> Please forgive any inaccuracies to my electrician friends...this is just how I remember the info that helped me when my first DLP PJ developed a pretty annoying case of lamp brightness fluctuation.


Lamps should be kept in High lamp for the first 100h, and once in a while after that. I keep it 100h every 500h.



b curry said:


> It's and interesting theory... But it seems somewhat conflated I think or coincidental.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the projector is expecting to see an NTSC 60Hz signal (set for this from the line frequency when plugged in) and you're sending it a PAL 50Hz signal, that probably accounts for the flicker. Not the lamp mode. In other words a video timing/phase difference. What happens when using the satellite box set for PAL with the projectors lamp set to high?
> 
> The Sony VPL-HW40ES does not have a dynamic iris function. A dynamic iris algorithm would be the only realistic link to the lamp that would/could introduce dimming based on program material.
> 
> The VPL-HW40ES has a regulated power supply making the projectors operation constant regardless of signal input. Likewise, the satellite box has not changed it's power supply and signal strength/voltage would/should be the same regardless of the signal NTSC/PAL. What has changed is the bandwidth, phase, frequency, etc. between two different standards. If the projector is referenced to 60Hz for its operation and your send it a signal that's timed to a 50Hz reference...
> 
> When you start the projector, several thousand volts of electricity are generated in the projectors power supply/blast, controlled by a driver circuit and conducted through the lamps electrodes creating an arc using the mercury vapor as a discharge medium. After the start cycle and the arc is established, the projectors lamp driver circuit reduces the voltage and current. The lamps electrode gap distance is precise and is kept stable during the lamps lifetime by a regenerative chemical cycle which uses oxygen and bromine generated during the arc process to transport evaporated tungsten back to the electrodes to help maintain their shape/gap.
> 
> When you switch or operate the projector in LOW/ECO MODE, the lamp start up phase is exactly the same as operating the lamp in its HIGH/NORMAL or full power setting. However, in LOW/ECO MODE both the voltage and current to the lamp are reduced while in service/operation and the lamp produces fewer lumens or is less bright.
> 
> Operating the lamp in LOW/ECO MODE may consume less electricity but the byproduct is that the chemical cycle producing tungsten that refreshes the shape and gap distance of the electrode is less efficient. The inefficiency of the tungsten generation can or may produce a lamp electrode shape or gap that is less than optimum were the result is that the arc is not stable or "dances" on the electrodes producing a lamp flicker.
> 
> Flicker happens when the lamps electrode shape, electrode gap, or both deviate from from optimum conditions.
> 
> This explains why that when returning the VPL-HW40ES lamp setting to HIGH, lamp flicker is mitigated.
> 
> If for what ever reason you choose to operate your projector in LOW/ECO mode, you should make a habit of operating the projector for a few hours in the HIGH/NORMAL mode at least once a month and especially so if you're experiencing any flickering. This will help to "exercise" the lamp in the maintenance of the electrode gap/shape.


----------



## macming

macming said:


> My refurb had a few dust blobs from day 1. I tried to run it on high power and high altitude mode, but the blobs are still here. I called Epson and they have a replacement unit coming next week. Hopefully the replacement is problem-free.


I got my replacement unit today. It looks brand new with a 0H bulb. Upon the initial test, it is dust blob free. 

I'm going to put it on the ceiling tomorrow and continue my observation. I'll consider myself lucky if the second unit is perfect.


----------



## macming

Xavier3 said:


> What you are experiencing is inherent in UHP Lamp projectors. I have had it at some point in varying severity with all 4 of my projectors over the last decade.
> 
> These lamps when brand new, need to ideally be placed in High lamp mode to create a proper arch inside them, for many hours (I don’t remember exactly, but please google it or search this site for lamp flicker or fluctuation). Once set, you can now bring it down in power. The lower the power, the less stable the power flow can become inside the lamp.
> 
> So now that most of us probably didn’t do this, don’t fret. Put your PJ in high lamp mode for a week (I know the fans are loud, but they do spin down a bit afterwards, and this is for the greater good). Then you are kind of re-training the arch inside. Rinse and repeat if issue comes back.
> 
> Please forgive any inaccuracies to my electrician friends...this is just how I remember the info that helped me when my first DLP PJ developed a pretty annoying case of lamp brightness fluctuation.





noob00224 said:


> Lamps should be kept in High lamp for the first 100h, and once in a while after that. I keep it 100h every 500h.


Thank you gents. I didn't know about this and I will follow this pattern to ensure my projector throws a consistent picture. The fan noise actually isn't too bad on high in my room, so I totally don't mind.


----------



## Bayouslim77

Hello everyone. I'm also looking into a 5040ub refurb on ebay as the motorized lens along with the long zoom ratio will fill out my 10' 2.35:1 screen nicely . I've seen them on eBay and thinking about purchasing one Saturday. Should i try and find one directly from epson or go with the purchase from eBay? After reading some of the posts here is it safe to say that epson may not do such a good job refurbishing these units???


----------



## dysmartguy2005

Do Epson projectors tonemap HDR based on MaxCLL or MDL of the incoming video signal?


----------



## rekbones

Bayouslim77 said:


> Hello everyone. I'm also looking into a 5040ub refurb on ebay as the motorized lens along with the long zoom ratio will fill out my 10' 2.35:1 screen nicely . I've seen them on eBay and thinking about purchasing one Saturday. Should i try and find one directly from epson or go with the purchase from eBay? After reading some of the posts here is it safe to say that epson may not do such a good job refurbishing these units???


You want to buy direct from Epson to insure the warranty.


----------



## Bayouslim77

Thanks for your reply. They only have the wireless version in stock right now, but hopefully one will pop up by Saturday or Monday. I've been looking at the 4040 as well. Any opinions on that one?


----------



## dyslexic

Bayouslim77 said:


> Thanks for your reply. They only have the wireless version in stock right now, but hopefully one will pop up by Saturday or Monday. I've been looking at the 4040 as well. Any opinions on that one?



Yeah - I'm looking at the 4040 as well - since I'm replacing my old antique Panny AE3000, anything will be an improvement....lol


----------



## Bayouslim77

dyslexic said:


> Bayouslim77 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your reply. They only have the wireless version in stock right now, but hopefully one will pop up by Saturday or Monday. I've been looking at the 4040 as well. Any opinions on that one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah - I'm looking at the 4040 as well - since I'm replacing my old antique Panny AE3000, anything will be an 😂😂 ikr! I have a digital projections M-vision 260-hb and the picture is great even projecting onto fabric but it's a long throw projector and i don't have the space nor the coin for an a lens, so the epson looks like a viable option to a 130" scope screen.
Click to expand...


----------



## noob00224

Bayouslim77 said:


> Thanks for your reply. They only have the wireless version in stock right now, but hopefully one will pop up by Saturday or Monday. I've been looking at the 4040 as well. Any opinions on that one?


Why would you want to get the HC4040? It's the black version of the HC4000. New, the 4040 came with a mount and an extra lamp. 

It's got the old HDR tone mapping and the poor blacks (in comparison to the 5/6000 series). Not sure what the deal is (no price talk except for MSRP on this subforum), but the refurb on the Epson site is a hair away from the 5040UB's price. And you don't get the mount and extra lamp.


----------



## tibimakai

Just wait, until more 5040UBs show up on Epson site. You get two years warranty and quick replacement, if something is wrong. What you will get from Ebay, if something is wrong?


----------



## Bayouslim77

Now i know 😏. That's why i love this forum, somebody was once in your position and has the knowledge and info you seek! Thank you !


----------



## Bayouslim77

tibimakai said:


> Just wait, until more 5040UBs show up on Epson site. You get two years warranty and quick replacement, if something is wrong. What you will get from Ebay, if something is wrong?


 good advice.


----------



## marcosphoto

Xavier3 said:


> What you are experiencing is inherent in UHP Lamp projectors. I have had it at some point in varying severity with all 4 of my projectors over the last decade.
> 
> These lamps when brand new, need to ideally be placed in High lamp mode to create a proper arch inside them, for many hours (I don’t remember exactly, but please google it or search this site for lamp flicker or fluctuation). Once set, you can now bring it down in power. The lower the power, the less stable the power flow can become inside the lamp.
> 
> So now that most of us probably didn’t do this, don’t fret. Put your PJ in high lamp mode for a week (I know the fans are loud, but they do spin down a bit afterwards, and this is for the greater good). Then you are kind of re-training the arch inside. Rinse and repeat if issue comes back.
> 
> Please forgive any inaccuracies to my electrician friends...this is just how I remember the info that helped me when my first DLP PJ developed a pretty annoying case of lamp brightness fluctuation.





noob00224 said:


> Lamps should be kept in High lamp for the first 100h, and once in a while after that. I keep it 100h every 500h.


You know, now that you guys mention this I sort of remember it somehow. I almost think my Panasonic instructions from moons ago may have said something about it. Figures, classic Epson support has no clue.


----------



## Nick Proell

5040UB Refurb is in stock right now. Hurry up!


----------



## Nick Proell

Bayouslim77 said:


> good advice.


It's in stock right now, better hurry as it'll likely be gone in an hour or two.


----------



## Bayouslim77

Nick Proell said:


> Bayouslim77 said:
> 
> 
> 
> good advice.
> 
> 
> 
> It's in stock right now, better hurry as it'll likely be gone in an hour or two.
Click to expand...

 thanks for the heads up! I ordered the 6040ub this morning and should receive it tomorrow.


----------



## ayrton

Bayouslim77 said:


> Hello everyone. I'm also looking into a 5040ub refurb on ebay as the motorized lens along with the long zoom ratio will fill out my 10' 2.35:1 screen nicely . I've seen them on eBay and thinking about purchasing one Saturday. Should i try and find one directly from epson or go with the purchase from eBay? After reading some of the posts here is it safe to say that epson may not do such a good job refurbishing these units???


My son just installed a 5040 refurbished from Epson and it is perfect! (So far)


----------



## TonytotheB

Epson replaced my faulty 5040UB with a refurb one. It's perfect

Does anyone have a link to the thread where people share their calibration settings for darker pictures etc? I lost my config


----------



## inspector

TonytotheB said:


> Epson replaced my faulty 5040UB with a refurb one. It's perfect
> 
> Does anyone have a link to the thread where people share their calibration settings for darker pictures etc? I lost my config




PM sent.


----------



## Bayouslim77

ayrton said:


> Bayouslim77 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello everyone. I'm also looking into a 5040ub refurb on ebay as the motorized lens along with the long zoom ratio will fill out my 10' 2.35:1 screen nicely . I've seen them on eBay and thinking about purchasing one Saturday. Should i try and find one directly from epson or go with the purchase from eBay? After reading some of the posts here is it safe to say that epson may not do such a good job refurbishing these units???
> 
> 
> 
> My son just installed a 5040 refurbished from Epson and it is perfect! (So far)/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

 that's awesome! My unit arrived in perfect condition and i got it mounted. Picture looks good out of the box so after calibration it should be even better. Looks like my day will be spent getting to know my new toy better! I'd anyone has some calibration settings to get the best picture and performance let me know. Thanks!


----------



## inspector

Bayouslim77 said:


> that's awesome! My unit arrived in perfect condition and i got it mounted. Picture looks good out of the box so after calibration it should be even better. Looks like my day will be spent getting to know my new toy better! I'd anyone has some calibration settings to get the best picture and performance let me know. Thanks!



PM sent


----------



## TonytotheB

inspector said:


> PM sent.


Thanks. I can't reply on PM as I am still newish haha

Which of those settings would you recommend for horror movies?


----------



## inspector

TonytotheB said:


> Thanks. I can't reply on PM as I am still newish haha
> 
> Which of those settings would you recommend for horror movies?


_Tony,_
_
_
_Here are the setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.

When you do your Panny 420/820, if you have one, do the same. PLAYER SETTINGS; HDMI, ADVANCED SETTINGS, VIDEO, AUDIO, 3D and HD OPTIMZER on remote.

UHD NATURAL 

*IMAGE*

60
58
50
59
5 5 5
65K
4
49,49,50,50,49,43
PRESET 4
6 6
40 30
GAMMA 0, -3,-4,-4,-4,-4,-6,-30,0
RGB
51 51 61
57,58,50
55,55,50
58,75,50
54,71,62
54,60,50
ON
0
MEDIUM
HIGH

*SIGNAL*

AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD NATURAL 

*IMAGE*

51
49
50
59
5 5 5
6K
4
49,49,50,50,44,43
PRESET 3
5 5
5 5
GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0
same as UHD
0
-6
MEDIUM
NORMAL

*SIGNAL*

AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD B&W (B&W CINEMA) I like my films to look black and white

*IMAGE*

50
42
37
43
0 0 0
6 5
50 for all
PRESET 1
0 0
0 0
GAMMA 1
OFF
0
MEDIUM
NORMAL

*SIGNAL*

AUTO
AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC

*IMAGE*

51
49
50
60
5 5 5
5 5
46,48,46,48,59,49
NORMAL
PRESET 3
4
1
5 5
5 5
GAMMA 1
50,58,48
57,51,46
61,50,44
46,50,41
52,49,66
52,23,69
OFF
-12
HIGH 
OFF

*SIGNAL*

3D SETUP

AUTO
0
THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
MEDIUM
ON

AUTO
FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast running, using FAST clears it up)

PANNY 420

SETUP PLAYER SETTINGS

*HDMI*

4K
4K(60p)(4:4:4)
AUTO
AUTO
AUTO ONLY
ON

*ADVANCED*

YcbCr (AUTO)
AUTO(12 bit Priority)
HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
ON
OFF
BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
OFF 
AUTO
AUTO
ON
AUTO

*VIDEO*

AUTO
ON

*AUDIO*

OFF
---
UP TO 96 kHz
SURROUND ENCODED
NORMAL
---
O
OFF

*3D*

AUTO
ORIGINAL
OFF

REMOTE

*HD OPTIMIZER*

STANDARD
+8
0
+4
-4


Good luck!

John_





... 







inspectorView Public ProfileSend a private message to inspectorFind More Posts by inspectorAdd inspector to Your Contacts


----------



## TonytotheB

inspector said:


> _Tony,_
> _
> _
> _Here are the setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.
> _


_

I got those in PM thanks. I meant I couldn't reply a "thanks" 

But which of those are best for horror movies?_


----------



## inspector

All of them.


----------



## DerKonig

JewDaddy said:


> Here’s a second video of SW Battlefront 2 on Xbox One X
> 
> https://youtu.be/9qugvQ494P8
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Dude what setting were you using in those days


----------



## JewDaddy

DerKonig said:


> Dude what setting were you using in those days


Hey man! Thanks for watching the video. I wish I could remember because I have since upgraded my 5040 to a 5050. However, I used to take pics of my settings all the time in case I were to lose them on the projector for some reason. Let me look through some old pics and see if I can find them for you. 

Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


----------



## Uber12

I got mine mounted last night and did some initial calibration on it and it looks great. No issues at all. It's a huge upgrade over my old one, although my wife says she can't really see a difference. 


The only 4K source that I have right now is a PC playing YouTube 4K so I tried that and it was impressive. I think I might need to pick up a Firestick 4K to tide me over until I can get a PS5.


----------



## tjsadler

I got my 5040ube refurb all set up last night. Everything looks to be great. I'll check the color convergence and more detailed stuff today. I'm fairly color blind so I'll need my wife's help with that one! Colors often look fine to me and not other people. 

I did have some issues with the WirelessHD but I think it is the source. I'm using a current gen ShieldTV Pro. When it's just on the main menu it doesn't want to connect. I have to blindly push buttons until a video starts playing and then it will finally connect. If I change the display resolution in the ShieldTV menu to 4k 23.97fps it fixes it but then content on youtubeTV looks choppy. Everything else seems to be ok but watching choppy sports is not good. If I change it back to the default 4k 59.xx fps it works fine once it finally finds itself but getting it started is a pain. Not sure if there's a workaround for that or if startup is just going to be a pain.


----------



## blazin912

I apologize and I have searched but with many years of trial and tweaking that many of you have achieved, what are the "best" go to picture settings for this? HDR content will be local media playback from shield. No disc spinner. I saw Harper vision settings were at one time a good single setting compromise for SDRand HDR content. Still the case? Anything similar or having two presets the answer now? Really appreciate the jump start!


----------



## macmanjpc

Quick update on my out of warranty 5040UB with a failed light engine. While not being covered under warranty I'm happy to say that thanks to my dealer, American Express' Buyer's Assurance Plan and Epson Canada, I have a brand new 5050UB on the way to me 👍🏻


----------



## VinnieB

Just got my 6040ub today and installed. Anybody know why it won't support HDR from the Xbox One X?


----------



## camtah

VinnieB said:


> Just got my 6040ub today and installed. Anybody know why it won't support HDR from the Xbox One X?


On a [email protected] disk it will. It appears that all other 4K streaming sources are [email protected] which won't do HDR on our PJ. I learned to live with it until I get a true 4K in the future


----------



## Bandyka

Uber12 said:


> I got mine mounted last night and did some initial calibration on it and it looks great. No issues at all. It's a huge upgrade over my old one, although my wife says she can't really see a difference.
> 
> 
> The only 4K source that I have right now is a PC playing YouTube 4K so I tried that and it was impressive. I think I might need to pick up a Firestick 4K to tide me over until I can get a PS5.


Can you see a difference between her old and new shoes?


----------



## marcosphoto

Uber12 said:


> I got mine mounted last night and did some initial calibration on it and it looks great. No issues at all. It's a huge upgrade over my old one, although my wife says she can't really see a difference.


Dude, my wife couldn't tell the difference between an AM clock radio and a 9 channel Atmos system. Sometimes it's so unrewarding to have spent a bazillion hours setting stuff up. Good thing is that she has an eye for color so she sees the overall improvements made in BR player and PJ technology.


----------



## marcosphoto

Bandyka said:


> Can you see a difference between her old and new shoes?





marcosphoto said:


> Dude, my wife couldn't tell the difference between an AM clock radio and a 9 channel Atmos system. Sometimes it's so unrewarding to have spent a bazillion hours setting stuff up. Good thing is that she has an eye for color so she sees the overall improvements made in BR player and PJ technology.


Shoes absolutely! Purses, not so much.


----------



## Archaea

blazin912 said:


> I apologize and I have searched but with many years of trial and tweaking that many of you have achieved, what are the "best" go to picture settings for this? HDR content will be local media playback from shield. No disc spinner. I saw Harper vision settings were at one time a good single setting compromise for SDRand HDR content. Still the case? Anything similar or having two presets the answer now? Really appreciate the jump start!



Just disable HDR at a quality source. I have found no HDR settings on the 5040UB that look as good as sending a BT2020 signal over SDR from my 4K disks using the Panasonic UB420 disk player. The Panasonic’s well revered HDR slider isn’t even as good as just turning HDR off at the source with this projector. On my Roku 4k stick same thing. Just choose 60Hz 4K (the no HDR variant). I’ve tried all the popular HDR settings. They are either unnatural(oversaturated and wrong), or dim IMO. This projector is not a good HDR projector, but its an excellent SDR projector. — Use its strengths.


----------



## VinnieB

camtah said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my 6040ub today and installed. Anybody know why it won't support HDR from the Xbox One X?
> 
> 
> 
> On a [email protected] disk it will. It appears that all other 4K streaming sources are [email protected] which won't do HDR on our PJ. I learned to live with it until I get a true 4K in the future
Click to expand...

Yeah I found that out last night. I have planet earth 2 on 4k HDR disc and tried that in the Xbox, it looked really good. Sucks it doesn't work on anything else. 

What about the Amazon fire stick 4K, does HDR work with that?


----------



## VinnieB

marcosphoto said:


> Bandyka said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see a difference between her old and new shoes? /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> marcosphoto said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, my wife couldn't tell the difference between an AM clock radio and a 9 channel Atmos system. Sometimes it's so unrewarding to have spent a bazillion hours setting stuff up. Good thing is that she has an eye for color so she sees the overall improvements made in BR player and PJ technology.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Shoes absolutely! Purses, not so much.
Click to expand...

LOL, I went from a 5030ub to this 6040ub. This makes this my 4th Epson projector. Anyway, the girlfriend I have now I've had the 5030ub with. Told her I wanted to get the 6040ub since it was a very good price and she didn't understand how the 6040ub could look better than the 5030ub. Got it all don't yesterday and out of the box settings she comes down and said "oh wow, that does look better". So I unhooked my Xbox from my monitor and hooked it up to my AVR and was a little disappointed that HDR doesn't work, oh well. So anyway, she took over the projector for about 2 hours because she was playing her game. The 5030ub sucked for gaming.


----------



## VinnieB

Here's some pictures of Planet Earth 2, keep in mind I have the first Razer phone and the camera isn't the greatest.


----------



## jordanfff

inspector said:


> All of them.


Hi do you have any settings for Epson when using the Hdfury devices to get LLDV(Dolbyvision).Was hoping someone may have this already setup and going.Thanks


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> LOL, I went from a 5030ub to this 6040ub. This makes this my 4th Epson projector. Anyway, the girlfriend I have now I've had the 5030ub with. Told her I wanted to get the 6040ub since it was a very good price and she didn't understand how the 6040ub could look better than the 5030ub. Got it all don't yesterday and out of the box settings she comes down and said "oh wow, that does look better". So I unhooked my Xbox from my monitor and hooked it up to my AVR and was a little disappointed that HDR doesn't work, oh well. So anyway, she took over the projector for about 2 hours because she was playing her game. The 5030ub sucked for gaming.


Set the Xbox for 1080P and HDR will work at 60hz (at least that's how I do it on the PC), all you compromise on is the resolution which IMO against the improved color and fidelity/HDR more than makes up for. Since its not a native 4K PJ you won't notice that much of a difference in resolution but you will see a big uptick in all else. Its a good compromise.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> LOL, I went from a 5030ub to this 6040ub. This makes this my 4th Epson projector. Anyway, the girlfriend I have now I've had the 5030ub with. Told her I wanted to get the 6040ub since it was a very good price and she didn't understand how the 6040ub could look better than the 5030ub. Got it all don't yesterday and out of the box settings she comes down and said "oh wow, that does look better". So I unhooked my Xbox from my monitor and hooked it up to my AVR and was a little disappointed that HDR doesn't work, oh well. So anyway, she took over the projector for about 2 hours because she was playing her game. The 5030ub sucked for gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> Set the Xbox for 1080P and HDR will work at 60hz (at least that's how I do it on the PC), all you compromise on is the resolution which IMO against the improved color and fidelity/HDR more than makes up for. Since its not a native 4K PJ you won't notice that much of a difference in resolution but you will see a big uptick in all else. Its a good compromise.
Click to expand...

Tried that, doesn't work. For the Xbox to do HDR, enable 4k has to be checked.


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> Tried that, doesn't work. For the Xbox to do HDR, enable 4k has to be checked.


ohh well get a PC then


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Tried that, doesn't work. For the Xbox to do HDR, enable 4k has to be checked.
> 
> 
> 
> ohh well get a PC then /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

Nah, not building a PC. I'm waiting for the series x, I guess I should of got the 6050ub.


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> Nah, not building a PC. I'm waiting for the series x, I guess I should of got the 6050ub.


If gaming is a priority for you yes you should have.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nah, not building a PC. I'm waiting for the series x, I guess I should of got the 6050ub.
> 
> 
> 
> If gaming is a priority for you yes you should have.
Click to expand...

I am a gamer, but I game on Xbox with a monitor (Samsung CHG70). But I want to be able to watch movies and stream Netflix in 4k HDR on my projector. Looks like I can watch 4k HDR disc on my projector, just can't stream from Netflix or the Xbox store.


----------



## Archaea

VinnieB said:


> Nah, not building a PC. I'm waiting for the series x, I guess I should of got the 6050ub.



You can buy one of the Fury devices and strip HDR from your Xbox Series X - that is if it doesn’t give you the option to strip it in the menus.


----------



## VinnieB

Archaea said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nah, not building a PC. I'm waiting for the series x, I guess I should of got the 6050ub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can buy one of the Fury devices and strip HDR from your Xbox Series X - that is if it doesnâ€™️t give you the option to strip it in the menus.
Click to expand...

Can you send me a link?


----------



## Archaea

VinnieB said:


> Can you send me a link?



https://www.hdfury.com

They have multiple products and each has a long thread here at AVS if you search for each product name. I don’t follow them close enough to tell you which one to get. I just hear about them all the time for console users who want 4K 60Hz without HDR.


----------



## VinnieB

Archaea said:


> https://www.hdfury.com
> 
> They have multiple products and each has a long thread here at AVS if you search for each product name. I don’t follow them close enough to tell you which one to get. I just hear about them all the time for console users who want 4K 60Hz without HDR.


Ah ok, but I want 4K 60 with HDR.


----------



## Archaea

VinnieB said:


> Archaea said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.hdfury.com
> 
> They have multiple products and each has a long thread here at AVS if you search for each product name. I donâ€™️t follow them close enough to tell you which one to get. I just hear about them all the time for console users who want 4K 60Hz without HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah ok, but I want 4K 60 with HDR.
Click to expand...


Then you have the wrong projector. The 5040UB has a 10Gbps HDMI chip. It is a hardware limitation that cannot be overcome. You can pick only two of these three; 60hz, 4K, HDR. The HD Fury takes a 60Hz 4K HDR signal and removes HDR.


----------



## Peeto79

Archaea said:


> Then you have the wrong projector. The 5040UB has a 10Gbps HDMI chip. It is a hardware limitation that cannot be overcome. You can pick only two of these three; 60hz, 4K, HDR. The HD Fury takes a 60Hz 4K HDR signal and removes HDR.


 That is not true. Linker does not remove HDR (it can, if you want, but he wants HDR). Linker is there to have all 3 at once with sacrifice 10bit HDR for 8bit HDR, that is what console players are doing with these projectors and linker. So he can play at 60Hz, 4K and HDR.


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> Ah ok, but I want 4K 60 with HDR.


 hd linker fury is your solution  . you can than have 4K, 60Hz and HDR 8bit than. this one /https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/


----------



## VinnieB

Peeto79 said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah ok, but I want 4K 60 with HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> hd linker fury is your solution /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif . you can than have 4K, 60Hz and HDR 8bit than. this one /https://www.hdfury.com/product/linker-4k60-444-600mhz-scaler/
Click to expand...

This will 100% work? Does anybody here have this and can confirm it works?


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> This will 100% work? Does anybody here have this and can confirm it works?


 I have it. all marks green on xbox x in video settings. But you have to be fine with 8 bit first! Some sensitive eyes can spot it especially on clouds and sky in games. but yes, u will play with hdr and 4k.. and games looks stunning with this setup.


----------



## VinnieB

Peeto79 said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> This will 100% work? Does anybody here have this and can confirm it works?
> 
> 
> 
> I have it. all marks green on xbox x in video settings. But you have to be fine with 8 bit first! Some sensitive eyes can spot it especially on clouds and sky in games. but yes, u will play with hdr and 4k.. and games looks stunning with this setup.
Click to expand...

Thank you, gonna order it now. How does Netflix and prime look? 

Also, how did you set this up? Phone or PC? Could you screenshot/send me pictures of your settings?


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> Thank you, gonna order it now. How does Netflix and prime look?
> 
> Also, how did you set this up? Phone or PC? Could you screenshot/send me pictures of your settings?


I am not using netflix. I use this PJ and xbox for 4k hdr gaming and for 4k hdr discs  ... it is 100% correct, look. pcs from xbox now...


----------



## VinnieB

Peeto79 said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, gonna order it now. How does Netflix and prime look?
> 
> Also, how did you set this up? Phone or PC? Could you screenshot/send me pictures of your settings?
> 
> 
> 
> I am not using netflix. I use this PJ and xbox for 4k hdr gaming and for 4k hdr discs /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif ... it is 100% correct, look. pcs from xbox now...
Click to expand...

Awesome, it's ordered. If you have Netflix, watch the movie Bright and go to the gas station scene. That is a good scene for HDR, especially when the station blows up. 

When you get around to it and if you don't mind, show me the settings to change on the fury.


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> Awesome, it's ordered. If you have Netflix, watch the movie Bright and go to the gas station scene. That is a good scene for HDR, especially when the station blows up.
> 
> When you get around to it and if you don't mind, show me the settings to change on the fury.


 let me find it. its simple as hell  ... just set it up once with PC... and connect between xbox and projector. and that is it, you does not need to touch it anymore.


----------



## VinnieB

Peeto79 said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome, it's ordered. If you have Netflix, watch the movie Bright and go to the gas station scene. That is a good scene for HDR, especially when the station blows up.
> 
> When you get around to it and if you don't mind, show me the settings to change on the fury.
> 
> 
> 
> let me find it. its simple as hell /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif ... just set it up once with PC... and connect between xbox and projector. and that is it, you does not need to touch it anymore.
Click to expand...

I use an AVR between the Xbox and projector so I'll put the furry after the AVR to the projector.


----------



## VinnieB

VinnieB said:


> Peeto79 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome, it's ordered. If you have Netflix, watch the movie Bright and go to the gas station scene. That is a good scene for HDR, especially when the station blows up.
> 
> When you get around to it and if you don't mind, show me the settings to change on the fury.
> 
> 
> 
> let me find it. its simple as hell /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif ... just set it up once with PC... and connect between xbox and projector. and that is it, you does not need to touch it anymore.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I use an AVR between the Xbox and projector so I'll put the furry after the AVR to the projector.
Click to expand...

I see the fury has 2 HDMI outputs, can these output simultaneously? I usually plug my monitor right into my Xbox so I can game in 4k60 HDR with freesync, my AVR doesn't support freesync. Would the furry passthrough 4k60 HDR (10 bit) freesync to my monitor and 4k60 HDR (8 bit) to my AVR to projector? This would be awesome if it did.


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> I use an AVR between the Xbox and projector so I'll put the furry after the AVR to the projector.


that is it  ... do not forget to do firmware upgrade on linker once received. default one find signal like 5 seconds later than newer firmwares (still it is longer than without linker(. I do not have AVR, so have no experience how it will behave, but I expect longer time to display signal.


----------



## VinnieB

Peeto79 said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I use an AVR between the Xbox and projector so I'll put the furry after the AVR to the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> that is it /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif ... do not forget to do firmware upgrade on linker once received. default one find signal like 5 seconds later than newer firmwares (still it is longer than without linker(. I do not have AVR, so have no experience how it will behave, but I expect longer time to display signal.
Click to expand...

Thank you.


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> I see the fury has 2 HDMI outputs, can these output simultaneously? I usually plug my monitor right into my Xbox so I can game in 4k60 HDR with freesync, my AVR doesn't support freesync. Would the furry passthrough 4k60 HDR (10 bit) freesync to my monitor and 4k60 HDR (8 bit) to my AVR to projector? This would be awesome if it did.


 its opposite. it has 1 hdmi output and two inputs A and B, so you can put there 2 different sources, but I never tried this as I use it with xbox only. I also use Xbox as UHD disc player and also as satellite TV (it has hdmi in),.. so less cables  and only 1 hw instead of 3


----------



## noob00224

Peeto79 said:


> That is not true. Linker does not remove HDR (it can, if you want, but he wants HDR). Linker is there to have all 3 at once with sacrifice 10bit HDR for 8bit HDR, that is what console players are doing with these projectors and linker. So he can play at 60Hz, 4K and HDR.


Dropping the bit depth to 8 bit can result in some banding in solid colors, like a blue sky.


----------



## Archaea

Peeto79 said:


> That is not true. Linker does not remove HDR (it can, if you want, but he wants HDR). Linker is there to have all 3 at once with sacrifice 10bit HDR for 8bit HDR, that is what console players are doing with these projectors and linker. So he can play at 60Hz, 4K and HDR.



It’ll accept the input but its not true HDR. It’ll have color banding and other shortcomings. See here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheate...urce=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf


----------



## Peeto79

Archaea said:


> It’ll accept the input but its not true HDR. It’ll have color banding and other shortcomings. See here:
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/hometheate...urce=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf


 I know, I told him the same. 4K, 60Hz, HDR 8bit. 8bit does mean what u said. banding, I warn hm that some sensitive eye will see it on games on skies and especcialy clouds. But, it is hard to notice and games with 4k, hdr, 60 Hy looks amazing on this PJ with that linker. it is not possible to achieve it without it. actually HDR is pretty good this way.


----------



## Peeto79

noob00224 said:


> Dropping the bit depth to 8 bit can result in some banding in solid colors, like a blue sky.


 exactly. that is the trade-off. with Xbox X it is still worth, as without the linker, xbox will think your PJ is not capable 4k hdr gaming and will not give you that option. he can now enjoy gaming with better resolution (althought eshifted, its better with native 4k games) and with HDR which is significant difference compared to sdr. Yes, it is not 10bit, but IMHO it is worth the upgrade for xbox and gaming.


----------



## Archaea

Peeto79 said:


> exactly. that is the trade-off. with Xbox X it is still worth, as without the linker, xbox will think your PJ is not capable 4k hdr gaming and will not give you that option. he can now enjoy gaming with better resolution (althought eshifted, its better with native 4k games) and with HDR which is significant difference compared to sdr. Yes, it is not 10bit, but IMHO it is worth the upgrade for xbox and gaming.



Do you think HDR is better on this projector with 4K movies? I’d like to know your perspective. In my testing with my 5040UB (and all the various configs people suggest, and owning one of the fancy Panasonic disk players with the HDR slider) - I still prefer HDR off for 4K cinema material. As I said a few post back, this projector, IMO, isn’t very good at HDR even in movies where it can actually do true 24FPS HDR. Not sure how it could be worth it to sacrifice in areas it does well to implement HDR that it doesn’t do well???

I have not seem the Fury Linker, so this is just conjure, but do own a 5040UB multiple streamers, and a panasonic UB420 and have done pretty extensive testing with many hours of comparing settings to arrive at my preference of no HDR (on this unit) for cinema and streaming. I dont game on this projector. I prefer to game on an aw3418D 120 Hz IPS gaming monitor.

Just my opinion though. I realize some people like HDR with custom settings like Harper Vision or hardware like the oppo or panasonic disk players or HD Fury.

The only implementation in a projector I saw that I thought HDR was worthwhile on was a JVC NX7. (I’ve viewed 3 enthusiast installs) I don’t even much like it on the 5050UB (viewed 1 enthusiast install) , or


----------



## noob00224

Archaea said:


> Do you think HDR is better on this projector with 4K movies? I’d like to know your perspective. In my testing with my 5040UB (and all the various configs people suggest, and owning one of the fancy Panasonic disk players with the HDR slider) - I still prefer HDR off for 4K cinema material. As I said a few post back, this projector, IMO, isn’t very good at HDR even in movies where it can actually do true 24FPS HDR. Not sure how it could be worth it to sacrifice in areas it does well to implement HDR that it doesn’t do well???
> 
> I have not seem the Fury Linker, so this is just conjure, but do own a 5040UB multiple streamers, and a panasonic UB420 and have done pretty extensive testing with many hours of comparing settings to arrive at my preference of no HDR (on this unit) for cinema and streaming. I dont game on this projector. I prefer to game on an aw3418D 120 Hz IPS gaming monitor.
> 
> Just my opinion though. I realize some people think HDR is worthwhile with custom settings like Harper Vision or hardware like the oppo or panasonic disk players or HD Fury.


Have you tried madvr, do you have a PC?


----------



## Peeto79

Yes, I quite like it comparing to SDR movies. I also did not see any wow effect with HDR, but with some advices and tweaking I like it even more than SDR now. The same for games. It really needs to be customized settings with much more light for HDR than digital filters are out of the game (the only right one) .. but still it is some improvement over SDR and I finally enjoy it. But I was like first one year not using HDR at all...
Regarding gaming, sure I have also gaming monitor 32" .... but... 100" with 4K and HDR with PJ is nearly as amazing as native 4k monitor (nearly). But what matters here most is the size. It makes huge difference comparing to small 32" pc screen.



Archaea said:


> Do you think HDR is better on this projector with 4K movies? I’d like to know your perspective. In my testing with my 5040UB (and all the various configs people suggest, and owning one of the fancy Panasonic disk players with the HDR slider) - I still prefer HDR off for 4K cinema material. As I said a few post back, this projector, IMO, isn’t very good at HDR even in movies where it can actually do true 24FPS HDR. Not sure how it could be worth it to sacrifice in areas it does well to implement HDR that it doesn’t do well???
> 
> I have not seem the Fury Linker, so this is just conjure, but do own a 5040UB multiple streamers, and a panasonic UB420 and have done pretty extensive testing with many hours of comparing settings to arrive at my preference of no HDR (on this unit) for cinema and streaming. I dont game on this projector. I prefer to game on an aw3418D 120 Hz IPS gaming monitor.
> 
> Just my opinion though. I realize some people like HDR with custom settings like Harper Vision or hardware like the oppo or panasonic disk players or HD Fury.
> 
> The only implementation in a projector I saw that I thought HDR was worthwhile on was a JVC NX7. (I’ve viewed 3 enthusiast installs) I don’t even much like it on the 5050UB (viewed 1 enthusiast install) , or


----------



## VinnieB

Peeto79 said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I use an AVR between the Xbox and projector so I'll put the furry after the AVR to the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> that is it /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif ... do not forget to do firmware upgrade on linker once received. default one find signal like 5 seconds later than newer firmwares (still it is longer than without linker(. I do not have AVR, so have no experience how it will behave, but I expect longer time to display signal.
Click to expand...

In the EDID manager, I can't select "CUSTOM Select". Where do I need to scale and EDID to be on the side of the box?


----------



## b_scott

just ordered an HD Fury Linker to pair with my Epson 5040.

Do people recommend just using it on the AVR out between the AVR and the Projector, and use it for everything?


----------



## VinnieB

VinnieB said:


> Peeto79 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I use an AVR between the Xbox and projector so I'll put the furry after the AVR to the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> that is it /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif ... do not forget to do firmware upgrade on linker once received. default one find signal like 5 seconds later than newer firmwares (still it is longer than without linker(. I do not have AVR, so have no experience how it will behave, but I expect longer time to display signal.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In the EDID manager, I can't select "CUSTOM Select". Where do I need to scale and EDID to be on the side of the box?
Click to expand...

Ah I got it now.


----------



## VinnieB

b_scott said:


> just ordered an HD Fury Linker to pair with my Epson 5040.
> 
> Do people recommend just using it on the AVR out between the AVR and the Projector, and use it for everything?


From my understanding, only if a signal is sent to the projector that it cannot support, it gets downscaled. I'm going to hook it up from AVR to projector so everything plays.


----------



## Xavier3

@Archaea Not that I’m saying HDR is ever going to be great on any PJ, because of simple physics (ok maybe complex physics)

But I recently learned that a show that you had real trouble with in HDR, and I completely agreed and had the same experience: namely Mandalorian. Turns it it was fake HDR. Disney is apparently been using a faux HDR which looks kinda bad. I also noticed that 4K blurays looked much much better than any HDR show, but not always. It seems like HDR mastering is a bit of an art and just like good 3D back in the day, it requires some real effort.

Btw, I use MadVR and HDR looks awesome, but only on the well crafted stuff. Streaming services, including Apple’s new service, can be a bit ho hum with 4K. Looks worse than 1080p a lot of times.


----------



## VinnieB

So I got the Linker all set up and hooked up, and it works. It plays my games in 4K HDR but to be honest, it looks the same without it. I also tried Netflix, mainly with the movie Bright. Same thing, looks the same with or without. While watching a 4K HDR Blu-Ray, when I mainly check and uncheck HDR in the Xbox settings, I then see a difference.


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> So I got the Linker all set up and hooked up, and it works. It plays my games in 4K HDR but to be honest, it looks the same without it. I also tried Netflix, mainly with the movie Bright. Same thing, looks the same with or without. While watching a 4K HDR Blu-Ray, when I mainly check and uncheck HDR in the Xbox settings, I then see a difference.


That's because the Linker removes HDR and allows you to run 4K 60Hz.
When you go to the info tab on the projector what info do you see? Post here.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I got the Linker all set up and hooked up, and it works. It plays my games in 4K HDR but to be honest, it looks the same without it. I also tried Netflix, mainly with the movie Bright. Same thing, looks the same with or without. While watching a 4K HDR Blu-Ray, when I mainly check and uncheck HDR in the Xbox settings, I then see a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> That's because the Linker removes HDR and allows you to run 4K 60Hz.
> 
> What you should be doing is running it in SDR WCG then you see the difference due to Rec2020 being passed and HDR stripped. That's how I used to run my LS10000.
Click to expand...

According to the info in my projector, it's running 4k60 HDR 8 bit.


----------



## VinnieB

VinnieB said:


> Bandyka said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I got the Linker all set up and hooked up, and it works. It plays my games in 4K HDR but to be honest, it looks the same without it. I also tried Netflix, mainly with the movie Bright. Same thing, looks the same with or without. While watching a 4K HDR Blu-Ray, when I mainly check and uncheck HDR in the Xbox settings, I then see a difference.
> 
> 
> 
> That's because the Linker removes HDR and allows you to run 4K 60Hz.
> 
> What you should be doing is running it in SDR WCG then you see the difference due to Rec2020 being passed and HDR stripped. That's how I used to run my LS10000.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> According to the info in my projector, it's running 4k60 HDR 8 bit.
Click to expand...

How would I set the linker up to do that?


----------



## muad'dib

VinnieB said:


> This will 100% work? Does anybody here have this and can confirm it works?


I have the vertex (same as linker but more options etc) and yes it works great.... I use for Xbox one x and Ps4 pro... I get full 4k60 HDR.. 

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


----------



## VinnieB

muad'dib said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> This will 100% work? Does anybody here have this and can confirm it works?
> 
> 
> 
> I have the vertex (same as linker but more options etc) and yes it works great.... I use for xboxnone x and Ps4 pro... I get full 4k60 HDR..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yeah, I got it and it works but I see no difference between 4k60 8 bit HDR and 4k60 8 bit SDR. I took a game, gears 5 and paused it on a very high contrast scene and switched from using the link and not, no difference at all. Also tried Bright from Netflix, gas station scene. No difference.


----------



## muad'dib

VinnieB said:


> Yeah, I got it and it works but I see no difference between 4k60 8 bit HDR and 4k60 8 bit SDR. I took a game, gears 5 and paused it on a very high contrast scene and switched from using the link and not, no difference at all. Also tried Bright from Netflix, gas station scene. No difference.


Some games (most) allow you to set HDR brightness in game.. Most games are too high.. So washed out... Use the setting in games to dial in... It makes a huge difference.. 

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


----------



## VinnieB

muad'dib said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I got it and it works but I see no difference between 4k60 8 bit HDR and 4k60 8 bit SDR. I took a game, gears 5 and paused it on a very high contrast scene and switched from using the link and not, no difference at all. Also tried Bright from Netflix, gas station scene. No difference.
> 
> 
> 
> Some games (most) allow you to set HDR brightness in game.. Most games are too high.. So washed out... Use the setting in games to dial in... It makes a huge difference..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yeah, done that too. Also with that 4k HDR demo called insects. Still no difference.


----------



## Bandyka

muad'dib said:


> I have the vertex (same as linker but more options etc) and yes it works great.... I use for Xbox one x and Ps4 pro... I get full 4k60 HDR..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


But what color space do you get? What bit rate?


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> Yeah, I got it and it works but I see no difference between 4k60 8 bit HDR and 4k60 8 bit SDR. I took a game, gears 5 and paused it on a very high contrast scene and switched from using the link and not, no difference at all. Also tried Bright from Netflix, gas station scene. No difference.


Because you are most likely not getting HDR at all. All you get is 4K 60p. that's all you should get really.

Post your projector info page here. Screenshot.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I got it and it works but I see no difference between 4k60 8 bit HDR and 4k60 8 bit SDR. I took a game, gears 5 and paused it on a very high contrast scene and switched from using the link and not, no difference at all. Also tried Bright from Netflix, gas station scene. No difference.
> 
> 
> 
> Because you are most likely not getting HDR at all. All you get is 4K 60p.
> 
> Post your projector info page here. Screenshot.
Click to expand...

I'm not home ATM but it definitely was in HDR. Info screen said 4:2:0 bt2020 8 bit HDR. Whenever I loaded up Netflix or an HDR game, the signal would drop out then come back on and info screen displayed HDR.


----------



## muad'dib

Bandyka said:


> But what color space do you get? What bit rate?


I'm getting 8bit..

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

muad'dib said:


> I'm getting 8bit..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


That's good so that's it you are getting the max out of the PJ. However the biggest difference UHD can make IMO is WCG not HDR. That is why a lot of folks strip HDR using the LInker and watch SDR WCG but that can't be done at 60p on this PJ.


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> I'm not home ATM but it definitely was in HDR. Info screen said 4:2:0 bt2020 8 bit HDR. Whenever I loaded up Netflix or an HDR game, the signal would drop out then come back on and info screen displayed HDR.


Kool please post it here when you get a chance and also your picture preset you are using.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not home ATM but it definitely was in HDR. Info screen said 4:2:0 bt2020 8 bit HDR. Whenever I loaded up Netflix or an HDR game, the signal would drop out then come back on and info screen displayed HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Kool please post it here when you get a chance and also your picture preset you are using.
Click to expand...

Will do.


----------



## muad'dib

Bandyka said:


> That's good so that's it you are getting the max out of the PJ. However the biggest difference UHD can make IMO is WCG not HDR. That is why a lot of folks strip HDR using the LInker and watch SDR WCG but that can't be done at 60p on this PJ.


I agree.. 

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

Bandyka said:


> Because you are most likely not getting HDR at all. All you get is 4K 60p. that's all you should get really.
> 
> Post your projector info page here. Screenshot.


why do you keep saying this? The entire point of buying the Linker for $200 is to be able to use 8-bit HDR with 4k/60.


----------



## Bandyka

b_scott said:


> why do you keep saying this? The entire point of buying the Linker for $200 is to be able to use 8-bit HDR with 4k/60.


Because that is the reality mate. I've been through this multiple times years ago with a number of top end projectors.
HDR is the smaller part of the improvement that UHD has to offer that is the truth, saying that HDR does look awesome even without WCG 12bit. However the main purpose of hte Linker was to enable SDR WCG that was its main development point when projectors were far and few capable of doing full 18gbps.

This is why I am saying it


----------



## b_scott

Bandyka said:


> Because that is the reality mate. I've been through this multiple times years ago with a number of top end projectors.
> HDR is the smaller part of the improvement that UHD has to offer that is the truth, saying that HDR does look awesome even without WCG 12bit. However the main purpose of hte Linker was to enable SDR WCG that was its main development point when projectors were far and few capable of doing full 18gbps.
> 
> This is why I am saying it


Except you do get HDR in 8bit. So I'm not sure why you're saying you shouldn't be getting it.


----------



## Bandyka

b_scott said:


> Except you do get HDR in 8bit. So I'm not sure why you're saying you shouldn't be getting it.


Yes you do, perhaps you misunderstood what I am saying or expressed myself wrong.


----------



## noob00224

I don't believe you can get WCG without HDR. The signal needs to be tone mapped to get SDR, but the source is still HDR.


----------



## b_scott

Bandyka said:


> Yes you do, perhaps you misunderstood what I am saying or expressed myself wrong.


Maybe you're trying to say "that's not the reason to use the Linker so if you do get HDR cool but if you don't then oh well because I don't feel that's the reason for the Linker anyway"


----------



## Bandyka

noob00224 said:


> I don't believe you can get WCG without HDR. The signal needs to be tone mapped to get SDR, but the source is still HDR.


Of course you can. I was one of the very first ones years ago who trialed it. Look at my LS10000 WCG settings in my signature. This is a very old topic, SDR WCG has been well established and is being used widely. Look up the Madvr SDR WCG topic on this forum as well.

SDR WCG is considered some of the best looking UHD images on a projector to date.


----------



## noob00224

Bandyka said:


> Of course you can. I was one of the very first ones years ago who trialed it. Look at my LS10000 WCG settings in my signature. This is a very old topic, SDR WCG has been well established and is being used widely. Look up the Madvr SDR WCG topic on this forum as well.
> 
> SDR WCG is considered some of the best looking UHD images on a projector to date.


If you're referring to the tone mapping feature of madvr, that needs a HDR source.


----------



## Bandyka

noob00224 said:


> If you're referring to the tone mapping feature of madvr, that needs a HDR source.


I am not.
Regardless SDR WCG is from an HDR source.


----------



## VinnieB

First pic is on the Xbox dashboard, none HDR and second pic is with HDR content.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not home ATM but it definitely was in HDR. Info screen said 4:2:0 bt2020 8 bit HDR. Whenever I loaded up Netflix or an HDR game, the signal would drop out then come back on and info screen displayed HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Kool please post it here when you get a chance and also your picture preset you are using.
Click to expand...

Posted.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> Because that is the reality mate. I've been through this multiple times years ago with a number of top end projectors.
> HDR is the smaller part of the improvement that UHD has to offer that is the truth, saying that HDR does look awesome even without WCG 12bit. However the main purpose of hte Linker was to enable SDR WCG that was its main development point when projectors were far and few capable of doing full 18gbps.
> 
> This is why I am saying it


So how do I set the fury up to get SDR WCG?


----------



## ace11

Hello All,

New entry to this forum. I currently have Xbox one S connected to 5040UB. AVR is Marantz SR6014 (HDCP 2.3). Screen 125 Elite Spectrum (White)

For watching Netflix via Xbox one S:
- Should I get HD Fury Linker for Xbox One S for watching Netflix or there won't be any notable difference? 
or
- Get a Panasonic UB420/820/9000. Do I still need to buy HD Fury Linker along with Panasonic player?

I noticing blurry watching movies. Any specific suggestions on calibration to reduce blurriness. Currently using default with Dynamic.

I plan to test the calibrations suggested by Inspector.


----------



## inspector

ace11 said:


> Hello All,
> 
> New entry to this forum. I currently have Xbox one S connected to 5040UB. AVR is Marantz SR6014 (HDCP 2.3). Screen 125 Elite Spectrum (White)
> 
> For watching Netflix via Xbox one S:
> - Should I get HD Fury Linker for Xbox One S for watching Netflix or there won't be any notable difference?
> or
> - Get a Panasonic UB420/820/9000. Do I still need to buy HD Fury Linker along with Panasonic player?
> 
> I noticing blurry watching movies. Any specific suggestions on calibration to reduce blurriness. Currently using default with Dynamic.
> 
> I plan to test the calibrations suggested by Inspector.


 
Watched SUPERMAN THE MOVIE in UHD yesterday and it looked super. Just got done watching TAZA, SON OF COCHISE and it looked beautiful!!!


SUPERMAN using Natural UHD and TAZA using Dynamic 3D.


----------



## JoelS

*Need Help with 6040UB and HDMI*

Just purchased an Epson 6040UB and a Monoprice 8k 50' HDMI cable to go with it. When attempting to play my Sony BDP-S570 1080P Blu-ray thru my Onkyo TX-SR707 Receiver, the Epson won't display picture. If I connect the Sony directly to Epson, using same 8k HDMI cable, picture works fine. Any suggestions on the cause of my problem? Receiver too old (HDMI 1.3a) for Epson? Is the Monoprice 8k HDMI cable not backwards compatible with 1.3? Or, could this just be a HDCP handshaking issue? 

And yes I know I need to replace my 10 yr old receiver, but was hoping to get Epson setup up interim before I dump some more cash.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## VinnieB

Joel Sorli said:


> Just purchased an Epson 6040UB and a Monoprice 8k 50' HDMI cable to go with it. When attempting to play my Sony BDP-S570 1080P Blu-ray thru my Onkyo TX-SR707 Receiver, the Epson won't display picture. If I connect the Sony directly to Epson, using same 8k HDMI cable, picture works fine. Any suggestions on the cause of my problem? Receiver too old (HDMI 1.3a) for Epson? Is the Monoprice 8k HDMI cable not backwards compatible with 1.3? Or, could this just be a HDCP handshaking issue?
> 
> And yes I know I need to replace my 10 yr old receiver, but was hoping to get Epson setup up interim before I dump some more cash.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I would buy an active HDMI running that long, also I don't believe any real 8K cables are not. Installbay makes a nice active HDMI cable.


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> Posted.


Looks good, So you reckon you are not getting HDR at all even when it displays 8 bit HDR Rec 709? What picture mode are you using?


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> So how do I set the fury up to get SDR WCG?


You may find your answers here:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/2905929-hdfury-linker-owners-thread-4.html


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Posted.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good, So you reckon you are not getting HDR at all even when it displays 8 bit HDR Rec 709? What picture mode are you using?
Click to expand...

I've tried them all. Each mode I would use the fury and bypass it, I see no difference at all. 

When I use a 4k HDR Blu-ray, I get 4k30 422 12 bit. When I turn on and off HDR in the Xbox settings, I see a difference and with HDR on it looks better.

But with the fury, at 4k60 it'll display BT2020, not Rec 709


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> I've tried them all. Each mode I would use the fury and bypass it, I see no difference at all.
> 
> When I use a 4k HDR Blu-ray, I get 4k30 422 12 bit. When I turn on and off HDR in the Xbox settings, I see a difference and with HDR on it looks better.
> 
> But with the fury, at 4k60 it'll display BT2020, not Rec 709


Probably your are not getting HDR than and you only get Rec 709 it's just the Linker tricking the display into thinking that it is. 

What are your Fury settings?


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried them all. Each mode I would use the fury and bypass it, I see no difference at all.
> 
> When I use a 4k HDR Blu-ray, I get 4k30 422 12 bit. When I turn on and off HDR in the Xbox settings, I see a difference and with HDR on it looks better.
> 
> But with the fury, at 4k60 it'll display BT2020, not Rec 709
> 
> 
> 
> Probably your are not getting HDR than and you only get Rec 709 it's just the Linker tricking the display into thinking that it is.
> 
> What are your Fury settings?
Click to expand...

Games that have in game HDR settings allow me to adjust the HDR settings, tho.


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> Games that have in game HDR settings allow me to adjust the HDR settings, tho.


It would allow you as the input device thinks that the PJ is fully capable that is whole point but the info the PJ receives from the Linker is scaled down to allow for the PJ's capabilities. 
Its a bit hard to understand what is going on in your case.

What is in the HDR tab on the Fury?


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Games that have in game HDR settings allow me to adjust the HDR settings, tho.
> 
> 
> 
> It would allow you as the input device thinks that the PJ is fully capable that is whole point but the info the PJ receives from the Linker is scaled down to allow for the PJ's capabilities.
> Its a bit hard to understand what is going on in your case.
> 
> What is in the HDR tab on the Fury?
Click to expand...

I left that alone and only adjusted what's circled in red. I can take pictures of that later when I get home.


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> I left that alone and only adjusted what's circled in red. I can take pictures of that later when I get home.


That might help. I haven't used the Fury in a loong time but I recall something had to be adjusted there.


----------



## Peeto79

Bandyka said:


> That's because the Linker removes HDR and allows you to run 4K 60Hz.
> When you go to the info tab on the projector what info do you see? Post here.


 not at all. I definately see quite a difference and wow factor with this PJ and HDR also with games. it definately turns hdr on .. I did a lot comparisons. Hereally needs to set and save 2 differente setups and setting for SDR and HDR content! it really cannot be the same


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> Yeah, I got it and it works but I see no difference between 4k60 8 bit HDR and 4k60 8 bit SDR. I took a game, gears 5 and paused it on a very high contrast scene and switched from using the link and not, no difference at all. Also tried Bright from Netflix, gas station scene. No difference.


 its heavan and hell difference. try to set your projector for HDR content, you really need completely different setup for HDR for games, but you will gbe definately satisfy with difference between SDR and HDR not only in movies, but especially at games, believe me. in games, hdr is just more vidid, color are more noticable, hard to explain.. but I really like it also in gears. especially gears5 is quite a differente as you can play now in 4k hdr and boy that game looks amazing with that mode.


----------



## b_scott

Peeto79 said:


> its heavan and hell difference. try to set your projector for HDR content, you really need completely different setup for HDR for games, but you will gbe definately satisfy with difference between SDR and HDR not only in movies, but especially at games, believe me. in games, hdr is just more vidid, color are more noticable, hard to explain.. but I really like it also in gears. especially gears5 is quite a differente as you can play now in 4k hdr and boy that game looks amazing with that mode.


so is the issue with the Xbox? That it really only sends 8 bit HDR but it's in a 10 bit wrapper? Seems like something Microsoft should fix.


----------



## Bandyka

b_scott said:


> so is the issue with the Xbox? That it really only sends 8 bit HDR but it's in a 10 bit wrapper? Seems like something Microsoft should fix.


No, the PJ can't handle 10 bit color at 60hz the color depth is being dithered.


----------



## b_scott

Bandyka said:


> No, the PJ can't handle 10 bit color at 60hz the color depth is being dithered.


ok but you can set your Xbox to 8 bit. Mine is always set that way. and yet still it seems that the Xbox won't check the box for that if connected to the projector which accepts 8 bit.


----------



## Peeto79

b_scott said:


> ok but you can set your Xbox to 8 bit. Mine is always set that way. and yet still it seems that the Xbox won't check the box for that if connected to the projector which accepts 8 bit.


 yes, PJ can do due to hdmi bandtwith in that PJ ony 4k 60Hz hdr 8bit that is max you can do. I think we can help him definately to set it up also for hdr games, there are so many sliders to set right on fury side on pc and also on physical fury + needs to be right settings on xbox side. but once it is set right, it work without touch.


----------



## Peeto79

Bandyka said:


> No, the PJ can't handle 10 bit color at 60hz the color depth is being dithered.


 definately, lazy MS. they should do patch easily to allow 1080p hdr 60Hz, or 4k, 60Hz, HDR 8bit just with patch.. but no.. we had to buy expansive linker for that. At least ps4 do the patch and allow 1080p, HDR 10 bit, 60Hz with this PJ. if sony can do , than also MS can... but they will not patch it.


----------



## b_scott

Peeto79 said:


> definately, lazy MS. they should do patch easily to allow 1080p hdr 60Hz, or 4k, 60Hz, HDR 8bit just with patch.. but no.. we had to buy expansive linker for that. At least ps4 do the patch and allow 1080p, HDR 10 bit, 60Hz with this PJ. if sony can do , than also MS can... but they will not patch it.


thanks, this is what I meant.


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> I left that alone and only adjusted what's circled in red. I can take pictures of that later when I get home.


 Does your settings looks the same on xbox and PJ as on pcs, or something is different? excuse poor quality of my pcs, I have like 10 years old phone


----------



## VinnieB

Peeto79 said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I left that alone and only adjusted what's circled in red. I can take pictures of that later when I get home.
> 
> 
> 
> Does your settings looks the same on xbox and PJ as on pcs, or something is different? excuse poor quality of my pcs, I have like 10 years old phone /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

I have 8 bit selected in the Xbox settings, but I have tried 10 and 12 and saw no difference.


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> Games that have in game HDR settings allow me to adjust the HDR settings, tho.


 hm, strange. check please all of the setting on my pcs, not only ones in red. you have to fix all of them. BT2020 is correct for HDR.


----------



## VinnieB

Peeto79 said:


> hm, strange. check please all of the setting on my pcs, not only ones in red. you have to fix all of them. BT2020 is correct for HDR.


Here's the settings....


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> Here's the settings....


seems all ok to me. when you play hdr game and put info PJ, how it looks like? really shows 4k, 60Hz, HDR 8 bit BT2020 like on mine? Than perhaps u have it right and should tweak only PJ settings and save one color profile for HDR 4k gaming (I need to put color saturation to 60 and add brightness to 54 and put neutral mode to see some HDR effect, but this can be totally different for your room and coditions. When I used digital filters before, it was useless and I see no difference or to me picture was even worse than sdr)


----------



## VinnieB

Peeto79 said:


> seems all ok to me. when you play hdr game and put info PJ, how it looks like? really shows 4k, 60Hz, HDR 8 bit BT2020 like on mine? Than perhaps u have it right and should tweak only PJ settings and save one color profile for HDR 4k gaming (I need to put color saturation to 60 and add brightness to 54 and put neutral mode to see some HDR effect, but this can be totally different for your room and coditions. When I used digital filters before, it was useless and I see no difference or to me picture was even worse than sdr)


All looks the same as yours. No matter what color mode I try, they all look the same with or without the linker(in other words, the all look the same in either 4k60 702 8bit SDR or 4k60 2020 8bit HDR). The only difference I see when using HDR is with a 4k HDR Blu-Ray, and this is without the linker and manually turning on and off HDR in the Xbox.


----------



## Peeto79

VinnieB said:


> All looks the same as yours. No matter what color mode I try, they all look the same with or without the linker(in other words, the all look the same in either 4k60 702 8bit SDR or 4k60 2020 8bit HDR). The only difference I see when using HDR is with a 4k HDR Blu-Ray, and this is without the linker and manually turning on and off HDR in the Xbox.


 thats really strange. I see like exactly the same difference as with UHD disc, the same difference with HDR games. okay its not 10bit for games, but 8bit only do that ditherring on certain scenes, still hardly noticable, but different colors are the same noticable as with UHD discs.


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> All looks the same as yours. No matter what color mode I try, they all look the same with or without the linker(in other words, the all look the same in either 4k60 702 8bit SDR or 4k60 2020 8bit HDR). The only difference I see when using HDR is with a 4k HDR Blu-Ray, and this is without the linker and manually turning on and off HDR in the Xbox.


That suggests to me that something is setup incorrectly in the chain, if it works for everyone it should work for you. If you only see UHD correctly when watching discs that means that 24p playback is correct however the additional bit the Fury should be doing is not working.
I am pretty sure it is a setup problem and if we saw it would be able to pick up what the issue is.
Can't think of much except perhaps posting a video of what you see or don't see as a difference and what options are being used during. Otherwise this will be near impossible to diagnose.


----------



## Archaea

ace11 said:


> Hello All,
> 
> New entry to this forum. I currently have Xbox one S connected to 5040UB. AVR is Marantz SR6014 (HDCP 2.3). Screen 125 Elite Spectrum (White)
> 
> For watching Netflix via Xbox one S:
> - Should I get HD Fury Linker for Xbox One S for watching Netflix or there won't be any notable difference?
> or
> - Get a Panasonic UB420/820/9000. Do I still need to buy HD Fury Linker along with Panasonic player?
> 
> I noticing blurry watching movies. Any specific suggestions on calibration to reduce blurriness. Currently using default with Dynamic.
> 
> I plan to test the calibrations suggested by Inspector.


Not to insult you, but to have you test the obvious -- did you zoom and focus with the remote? This projector should not be producing a blurry image. If you can't focus it in with the focus function of the remote found under the lens button, and you have the projector mounted according to the requirements in the manual and you are running at 1080P there should be no noticeable blurriness.


----------



## Archaea

noob00224 said:


> Have you tried madvr, do you have a PC?


I have Jriver and MadVR, calibrated specifically for my projector. Though I don't have 4K media ripped to my PC, I use it for short demo material with 1080P material.



Xavier3 said:


> @Archaea Not that I’m saying HDR is ever going to be great on any PJ, because of simple physics (ok maybe complex physics)
> 
> But I recently learned that a show that you had real trouble with in HDR, and I completely agreed and had the same experience: namely Mandalorian. Turns it it was fake HDR. Disney is apparently been using a faux HDR which looks kinda bad. I also noticed that 4K blurays looked much much better than any HDR show, but not always. It seems like HDR mastering is a bit of an art and just like good 3D back in the day, it requires some real effort.
> 
> Btw, I use MadVR and HDR looks awesome, but only on the well crafted stuff. Streaming services, including Apple’s new service, can be a bit ho hum with 4K. *Looks worse than 1080p a lot of times*.


Thanks for the feedback!

Yes Mandalorian made me want to burn down my theater I was so frustrated with the picture in HDR. 

That's the general problem I run into - but I don't think it's streaming specific. I've compared lots of 4K UHD disks with the HDR to the 1080P bluray disks. In almost every case the 1080P disk (with eshift and image enhancement on 2 or 3) looks better with this projector than 4K with it's attempt at HDR -- BECAUSE of the crappy HDR implementation - not because of the 4k. It isn't just my sample of projector either.  I've been through 4 other of these 5040UBs, and I've tried three different disk players. Two Panasonics and One LG. For me, stripping out HDR is just the easy button - to keep me from getting frustrated or having to constantly tinker with settings trying to get the best picture. (that in the end doesn't even best HDR removed image).

With the Panasonic Player I like HDR off and BT2020 from the source, with the gamma setting set to low/projector, and the 5040UB Projector on Natural picture setting. Some people have told me that BT2020 won't work with the projector on Natural picture mode - but for whatever reason (and I don't think it's placebo) I like the colors better on BT2020 with whatever the Panasonic disk player is doing by trying to add BT2020.

I've spent quite a bit of time comparing scene by scene 4k vs 1080P retail disks of

The Wall
Passengers
HTTYD - World's Edge
Greatest Showman
In each case I liked the 1080P disk with SDR better overall than the 4K disk with HDR. But I like the 4K disk with HDR disabled the best.

You said HDR probably can't be done by any projector, but I think HDR is pretty darn phenomenal with the JVC NX7. I watched the Dark Phoenix scene at my buddies house on the NX7 and the late night scene when the aliens take over the woman's body and it walks in on the evening dinner - the amount of fantastic detail on that scene in the woods in the dark caught my attention, and I thought to myself while viewing it on the NX7 - WOW! This is recorded REALLY well, it's a standout recording. I got the disk to try on my Epson 5040UB thinking it could be a demo piece of for my regular HT visitors. That particular scene looked utterly crappy in comparison on my 5040UB. Like something I wouldn't show guests because it was a muddy mess by comparison. That's with the Panasonic Player and toying with the HDR sliders. Another friend of mine @stitch1 compared with me that night. It was really a tremendous difference. 

I just don't feel comfortable spending ~$6K on NX7 - but there is no question it handles HDR dark content amazingly well with the built in scene by scene dynamic HDR optimization it uses -- as compared to the 5040UB's attempt at HDR. For SDR - I think the 5040UB and NX7 are pretty comparable. IE We watched scenes from HTTYD on his NX7 with the 1080P disk and then again on mine, and there was hardly any observable difference between those two scenes subjectively -- and certainly if there was much difference with SDR it wouldn't be worth anywhere near the the price differential (IMO). 

In the end, turning off HDR with the Panasonic disk player basically just gives me that great SDR image this projector can produce with no turmoil and the extra detail of the 4k media. I mostly use physical media - so that's what works for me.


----------



## Bandyka

I really don't see how one cannot be satisfied with HDR on this projector. I've had over 20 projectors in the past few years including the best of the best JVC. Tested the very best laser officially for manufacturers etc. I was on the forefront for years on this forum as well about HDR and various alternate options.

This is the first non laser PJ that I find throwing an acceptable image.

I am using MadvR and Jriver but even with the Panny player is fine even on mid lamp mode.

Either expectations are very high and unrealistic or settings are all over the place for many or both.
Form what I have seen here settings can be vary erratic indeed.

That's my experience just trying to offer a realistic perspective so you are not trying to chase the unattainable.


----------



## ace11

Archaea said:


> Not to insult you, but to have you test the obvious -- did you zoom and focus with the remote? This projector should not be producing a blurry image. If you can't focus it in with the focus function of the remote found under the lens button, and you have the projector mounted according to the requirements in the manual and you are running at 1080P there should be no noticeable blurriness.


Yes, I did adjust zoom and auto-focus. The issue is when watching fast motion contents, feeling little blurry and after some time strain to eyes. I am sure there are some settings I can adjust for this. 

Also, I am wondering if I get the Panasonic UB420/820/9000 and make it as my primary source for streaming (i.e. Netflix) instead of Xbox, do I still need to get HD Fury Linker? I'd rather invest in new Panasonic player instead of getting a HD Fury linker. 

For xbox, I have a TV behind the 125 inch screen that I use as the source for playing games.


----------



## ace11

Archaea said:


> Not to insult you, but to have you test the obvious -- did you zoom and focus with the remote? This projector should not be producing a blurry image. If you can't focus it in with the focus function of the remote found under the lens button, and you have the projector mounted according to the requirements in the manual and you are running at 1080P there should be no noticeable blurriness.


Yes, I did adjust zoom and auto-focus. The issue is when watching fast motion contents, feeling little blurry and after some time strain to eyes. I am sure there are some settings I can adjust for this. 

Also, I am wondering if I get the Panasonic UB420/820/9000 and make it as my primary source for streaming (i.e. Netflix) instead of Xbox, do I still need to get HD Fury Linker? I'd rather invest in new Panasonic player instead of getting a HD Fury linker. 

For xbox, I have a TV behind the 125 inch screen that I use as the source for playing games.


----------



## ace11

Archaea said:


> Not to insult you, but to have you test the obvious -- did you zoom and focus with the remote? This projector should not be producing a blurry image. If you can't focus it in with the focus function of the remote found under the lens button, and you have the projector mounted according to the requirements in the manual and you are running at 1080P there should be no noticeable blurriness.


Yes, I did adjust zoom and auto-focus. The issue is when watching fast motion contents, feeling little blurry and after some time strain to eyes. I am sure there are some settings I can adjust for this. 

Also, I am wondering if I get the Panasonic UB420/820/9000 and make it as my primary source for streaming (i.e. Netflix) instead of Xbox, do I still need to get HD Fury Linker?


----------



## Archaea

You do not need HD Fury for the Panasonic 420 or 820 players. The Panasonic disk player is doing the same sort of functionality as the HD Fury.


----------



## Archaea

Bandyka said:


> I really don't see how one cannot be satisfied with HDR on this projector.


I’ll summarize my long post previous. 

HDR is unsatisfactory on this projector because SDR content looks better than HDR content on this projector (in my experience, testing, and nearly year of ownership) and that’s not the way it is supposed to be.


----------



## Bandyka

Archaea said:


> I’ll summarize my long post previous.
> 
> HDR is unsatisfactory on this projector because SDR content looks better than HDR content on this projector (in my experience, testing, and nearly year of ownership) and that’s not the way it is supposed to be.


As I said I think expectations are set wrong or the setup is incorrect.

I confirm this PJ does HDR equal or better than my best of the best JVC X9500.


----------



## stitch1

@Bandyka I don't really have a dog in this fight. I have a Panasonic AE8000U 1080p projector. @Archaea was trying to convince me to upgrade to the 5040 but so far I have seen very little reason to make that change. Now the NX7 that a local friend has makes me want to. However, the price is much harder to justify without having the new HDMI spec included. If I am going to spend that kind of money I would rather wait a bit longer for HDMI 2.1. Realizing the price difference between the JVC NX7 and the Epson 5040 isn't much of a fair comparison. However, it seems they were brought up so here's my 2 cents on it. 

As an SDR 1080p Blu-ray projector the Epson 5040 seems like a beast. It's bright with good colors and contrast and a sharp image. It has really nice features that older Epsons didn't like the lens memory. If available at the peak of Blu-rays this would have been a no brainer purchase for the value it offers. 

As an HDR 2160p UHD projector the Epson 5040 doesn't even move the needle for me. When in HDR mode the detail in the darker end of the brightness spectrum becomes a mess. Most of the time everything is just too dark and washed out that you can hardly tell what is going on. Then there are times that something super bright will happen and you get blinded to the point of flinching. It's just not an enjoyable experience. 

In comparison, the same clips on the JVC NX7 had amazing detail. Going back to the clip from Dark Phoenix @Archaea referred to. You could see everything clearly and with great detail. You could clearly tell what was going on. Watching the same clip back with the Epson turned it into a grey murky mess. The image lost all clarity and detail. Not just unrealistic expectations but being able to see what is actually happening in the film seems pretty important to me. We then watched the same clip again in SDR and it looked great on the Epson. All the low end is brought back up to a usable brightness and you can clearly see whats going on again. On the bright side of the image both JVC and Epson did well. It's just the darker stuff becomes unbearable on the Epson

This is just one example but everything across the board was better in HDR while on the JVC. Where I wouldn't even want to use HDR on the Epson. As someone that REALLY wants HDR on their projector, I can not justify the short comings of the 5040. I would rather wait with my very outdated SDR 1080 Panasonic than to "upgrade" to a 5040.


----------



## Archaea

Bandyka said:


> I confirm this PJ does HDR equal or better than my best of the best JVC X9500.


I think you'd have trouble finding a reviewer who would agree the 2017, 5040UB that always received middling reviews for its HDR performance (and has ~15 community developed configs documented to help make HDR a passable experience - from harpervision to oledurt, etc) would match the quality of a top end JVC.

The JVC NX series projectors with their scene by scene dynamic HDR firmware does amazing things...if you haven’t seen or tried that yet, then I can perhaps better understand some of your out of date sentiment.

The 5040UB isn't a bad projector. It's quite a nice projector instead - like I've said - especially for SDR. It's still my go to recommendation for anyone who asks me what projector they should get on a budget. At refurb $1200 range?!? It's a great value!!! But as far as competing with the best of JVC. pshhhhhh.

The 2016 release era JVC RS600 (is that the same as the X950? X9500? you mention above?) I had in my room as a vendor supplied demo piece by @Mike Garrett during a 2017 home theater crawl smoked this 5040UB. (though at the time I was only comparing 1080P SDR sources and nothing HDR) At that time I owned a Panasonic AE8000U, but a close friend owned the 5040UB and I was pretty familiar with it and the image it threw. (enough to eventually buy one of my own when this refurb sale price popped up). My jaw dropped with the picture quality on that JVC RS600. I've never had the same overwhelmingly impressed experience with the 5040UB. But then again - the 5040UB throws an overall good picture, and is a fraction of the cost, and is still a solid choice for the cost these years later - even with its HDR limitations. (which as we've been discussing - one can just outright avoid.)


----------



## stitch1

Archaea said:


> Wow!!! A claim that is easily demonstrably untrue.
> 
> No reviewer would say the 2017, 5040UB that always received middling reviews for its HDR performance (and has 20 something community developed configs documented in a spreadsheet to make HDR a passable experience - from harpervision to oldgert, etc) would match the current best of JVC.
> 
> The JVC NX series projectors with their scene by scene dynamic HDR firmware does amazing things...if you haven’t seen or tried that yet, then I can perhaps better understand some of your out of date sentiment.



Maybe the 9500 isn't as good as the NX7... That could be the case. 

Have you tried his settings on your Epson? If not, worth a shot.


----------



## Archaea

@Bandyka,
What settings are you using on your Epson 5040UB for HDR? If I haven't tried them already, I'll give them a shot. I've gone through nearly all from the spreadsheet of popular configs, and not found anything as good, IMO, as just turning HDR off, but if you have something different yet, I'll try yours.


These are some of the settings I've tried: (attached)


----------



## noob00224

Archaea said:


> I have Jriver and MadVR, calibrated specifically for my projector. Though I don't have 4K media ripped to my PC, I use it for short demo material with 1080P material.


It's the best tone mapper around, so you might want to test it with a movie.


----------



## Uber12

I hadn't been planning on watching any 4K content on this projector, but watched a bit of YouTube 4K and it looked so good that I started thinking about it more. It turns out that my receiver, although it supports 4K, does not support HDCP 2.2.


I don't want to upgrade my receiver so I was lamenting this until I realized that the wireless video of the 5040UBe that I bought would be able to support it. I am thinking of getting a Fire TV 4K and an HDMI splitter so that I can send the video to the projector and the audio to the receiver. My concerns are:


1. I don't trust wireless video to work consistently. The projector will by only about about 12 feet away from the transmitter with clear line of sight.

2. I tried HDMI splitters 10 years ago and none of the ones I tried were able to work and I suspected the HDMI handshake was failing. Are they better these days?

3. Since I'm splitting the Audio and Video and sending them to different places with presumably different delays, I worry that they will not be in sync.


Have any of you attempted something similar and did you have decent results?


----------



## sddp

Uber12 said:


> I hadn't been planning on watching any 4K content on this projector, but watched a bit of YouTube 4K and it looked so good that I started thinking about it more. It turns out that my receiver, although it supports 4K, does not support HDCP 2.2.
> 
> 
> I don't want to upgrade my receiver so I was lamenting this until I realized that the wireless video of the 5040UBe that I bought would be able to support it. I am thinking of getting a Fire TV 4K and an HDMI splitter so that I can send the video to the projector and the audio to the receiver. My concerns are:
> 
> 
> 1. I don't trust wireless video to work consistently. The projector will by only about about 12 feet away from the transmitter with clear line of sight.
> 
> 2. I tried HDMI splitters 10 years ago and none of the ones I tried were able to work and I suspected the HDMI handshake was failing. Are they better these days?
> 
> 3. Since I'm splitting the Audio and Video and sending them to different places with presumably different delays, I worry that they will not be in sync.
> 
> 
> Have any of you attempted something similar and did you have decent results?



I have the 5040UBE. And the first year it was on a rack that was around 6' tall and NEVER had issues. Got rid of the rack and built a new one that is horizontal under the screen and did have some issues since I had the transmitter on a DVD player, about 5" off the ground (my projector is ceiling mounted about 23' back) and just put some auralex foam pads on their sides to raise the transmitter another 5" and now I get a %80'ish signal strength and all is good. HOWEVER! when ever going from netflix to xbox games or a blu ray mode in the Xbox to Amazon Prime, etc, the screen does go black and the Epson and it's transmitter ALWAYS %100 of the time loose sync for around 20 seconds or so. And on occasion out of the blue while watching a full length film, it will go black for about 10 seconds or so. I've learned to live with it and doesn't bother me anymore, since getting a 45'-50' HDMI cable can be quite expensive, plus to run it across, up, over, then over again, etc. The UBE was well worth the extra $200 for me.


----------



## noob00224

Archaea said:


> You do not need HD Fury for the Panasonic 420 or 820 players. The Panasonic disk player is doing the same sort of functionality as the HD Fury.


But what about used with a box or some kind of device that has a streaming services that requires 60Hz?


----------



## Archaea

noob00224 said:


> But what about used with a box or some kind of device that has a streaming services that requires 60Hz?



I use a $50 roku 4k stick that has an option for 4K 60hz (non HDR) for my streaming, don’t need it for my PC, and the panasonic for my disks. I don’t do much with game consoles currently.


----------



## john hunter

Archaea said:


> @Bandyka,
> What settings are you using on your Epson 5040UB for HDR? If I haven't tried them already, I'll give them a shot. I've gone through nearly all from the spreadsheet of popular configs, and not found anything as good, IMO, as just turning HDR off, but if you have something different yet, I'll try yours.
> 
> 
> These are some of the settings I've tried: (attached)


All these settings are years old.
Various firmware upgrades and use of the Panasonic Optimiser have created more and better options.
Why don't you try Adam's up to date ones in the Display Calibration webpage.


----------



## Archaea

john hunter said:


> All these settings are years old.
> Various firmware upgrades and use of the Panasonic Optimiser have created more and better options.
> Why don't you try Adam's up to date ones in the Display Calibration webpage.



I installed the newest 1.14 firmware immediately when it came out.

Thats the only firmware that came out in the last year. I bought the Panasonic player because it is the best option.

I will gladly try more display settings. I’m a tinkerer and thorough tester by nature. 

Please point me to the settings you refer to with a link.

The settings I linked aren’t that old, when I bought this projector last April and couldn’t find a comfortable satisfaction with HDR, I asked lots of questions in this thread and those are some of the most popular settings to date. Those are the settings many people said they found satisfaction with. I received PMs from people giving me their personal settings to try. I’ve tried dozens of settings. I’ll try more - point me at them.


----------



## Bandyka

All,

Yes the N7 of course is better than anything else including much more expensive projectors due to its dynamic tone mapping and yes I've tested it in fact I was one of the first in the world to do so. It was against the N9 and the latest Sony laser the 760 and the JVC X9900. Back then tone mapping wasn't available so HDR wasn't any better then the lesser models.
I had the chance to upgrade but I kept my X9500 as that was king of contrast and still is full stop.
Than I sold the X9500 for other reasons (which I regret) so I needed a PJ to get me by until I get my next proper one.

I tested the 9300 when it came out and I wasn't all that impressed back then but since they go real cheap these days I picked one up. After firmware updates it surprised me. 

The one most important thing about it and all projectors is that you must have the bases covered well which means proper calibration. This was months ago but I do remember gamma/grayscale had to be dialed in and that helped greatly with dark shadow detail in HDR mode as yes some detail was lost however after dialing it in it was great, not JVC great but very good. I think I had to change gamma up or down one or two notches to fix low end detail but nothing else need to be done. 
You just cannot expect this PJ to perform anywhere near the latest JVC models get that out of your head now, that comparison is silly. However as I said it compares to the older generation of JVC which is no small feat, yes shadow detail will obviously not be as good due to the much lower native contrast but it will be excellent compared to what the projects's native capabilities are and that is what you should be looking at.

In top end however it is brighter so specular highlights can be better looking. If its washed out your settings are incorrect.

I simply did not want to post here for a good reason and that is because I see so many trying all sorts of setting all over the place and most of these are so incorrect they will just destroy an accurate image in favor of brighter HDR better shadow detail etc. You simply cannot have those done accurately if you are trying to push the PJ beyond its native capabilities in the extreme ends of the scale. Its all about balance. That is what tone mapping is about as well.

My settings are simply Digital Cinema mode mid lamp, no special tweaks except I properly calibrated gamma/grayscale and using MadVr on very high settings. And this results in a very good looking and ACCURATE HDR image. Yes some movies are dark but they were mastered like that and only tone mapping can help them.

I hope this helps.


----------



## Bandyka

Archaea said:


> I think you'd have trouble finding a reviewer who would agree the 2017, 5040UB that always received middling reviews for its HDR performance (and has ~15 community developed configs documented to help make HDR a passable experience - from harpervision to oledurt, etc) would match the quality of a top end JVC.
> 
> The JVC NX series projectors with their scene by scene dynamic HDR firmware does amazing things...if you haven’t seen or tried that yet, then I can perhaps better understand some of your out of date sentiment.
> 
> The 5040UB isn't a bad projector. It's quite a nice projector instead - like I've said - especially for SDR. It's still my go to recommendation for anyone who asks me what projector they should get on a budget. At refurb $1200 range?!? It's a great value!!! But as far as competing with the best of JVC. pshhhhhh.
> 
> The 2016 release era JVC RS600 (is that the same as the X950? X9500? you mention above?) I had in my room as a vendor supplied demo piece by @Mike Garrett during a 2017 home theater crawl smoked this 5040UB. (though at the time I was only comparing 1080P SDR sources and nothing HDR) At that time I owned a Panasonic AE8000U, but a close friend owned the 5040UB and I was pretty familiar with it and the image it threw. (enough to eventually buy one of my own when this refurb sale price popped up). My jaw dropped with the picture quality on that JVC RS600. I've never had the same overwhelmingly impressed experience with the 5040UB. But then again - the 5040UB throws an overall good picture, and is a fraction of the cost, and is still a solid choice for the cost these years later - even with its HDR limitations. (which as we've been discussing - one can just outright avoid.)


The RS 600 is an older gen and HDR sucked on those that is the X9000. Also since 2017 native HDR performance of the Epson has improved.
Your Jaw dropped mostly due to its contrast performance and yes that is why I regret selling mine. Nothing comes close to it and I suspect nothing ever will, all new PJ including JVC cannot touch those native contrast figures.


----------



## Bandyka

stitch1 said:


> @Bandyka I don't really have a dog in this fight. I have a Panasonic AE8000U 1080p projector. @Archaea was trying to convince me to upgrade to the 5040 but so far I have seen very little reason to make that change. Now the NX7 that a local friend has makes me want to. However, the price is much harder to justify without having the new HDMI spec included. If I am going to spend that kind of money I would rather wait a bit longer for HDMI 2.1. Realizing the price difference between the JVC NX7 and the Epson 5040 isn't much of a fair comparison. However, it seems they were brought up so here's my 2 cents on it.
> 
> As an SDR 1080p Blu-ray projector the Epson 5040 seems like a beast. It's bright with good colors and contrast and a sharp image. It has really nice features that older Epsons didn't like the lens memory. If available at the peak of Blu-rays this would have been a no brainer purchase for the value it offers.
> 
> As an HDR 2160p UHD projector the Epson 5040 doesn't even move the needle for me. When in HDR mode the detail in the darker end of the brightness spectrum becomes a mess. Most of the time everything is just too dark and washed out that you can hardly tell what is going on. Then there are times that something super bright will happen and you get blinded to the point of flinching. It's just not an enjoyable experience.
> 
> In comparison, the same clips on the JVC NX7 had amazing detail. Going back to the clip from Dark Phoenix @Archaea referred to. You could see everything clearly and with great detail. You could clearly tell what was going on. Watching the same clip back with the Epson turned it into a grey murky mess. The image lost all clarity and detail. Not just unrealistic expectations but being able to see what is actually happening in the film seems pretty important to me. We then watched the same clip again in SDR and it looked great on the Epson. All the low end is brought back up to a usable brightness and you can clearly see whats going on again. On the bright side of the image both JVC and Epson did well. It's just the darker stuff becomes unbearable on the Epson
> 
> This is just one example but everything across the board was better in HDR while on the JVC. Where I wouldn't even want to use HDR on the Epson. As someone that REALLY wants HDR on their projector, I can not justify the short comings of the 5040. I would rather wait with my very outdated SDR 1080 Panasonic than to "upgrade" to a 5040.


I haven't seen Dark Phoenix but I'll check it out now as I see it mentioned. Did you actually check the SDR version of the movie or you simply turned the PJ into SDR mode using the HDR version of the movie?


----------



## noob00224

Archaea said:


> I use a $50 roku 4k stick that has an option for 4K 60hz (non HDR) for my streaming, don’t need it for my PC, and the panasonic for my disks. I don’t do much with game consoles currently.


I meant can the HDfury linker be used in combination with one of these boxes that require 4K HDR 60Hz?


----------



## Juboy

Archaea said:


> I’ll summarize my long post previous.
> 
> HDR is unsatisfactory on this projector because SDR content looks better than HDR content on this projector (in my experience, testing, and nearly year of ownership) and that’s not the way it is supposed to be.



My take is almost the opposite. HDR looks very, very good indeed on my 9300W. The 'problem' is that well calibrated 1080p SDR also looks so good that the jump in image quality for 4K HDR isn't as big as I'd expected it to be. 



I would still always prefer to watch 4K HDR because it does produce the superior image.


----------



## Bandyka

Juboy said:


> My take is almost the opposite. HDR looks very, very good indeed on my 9300W. The 'problem' is that well calibrated 1080p SDR also looks so good that the jump in image quality for 4K HDR isn't as big as I'd expected it to be.
> 
> 
> 
> I would still always prefer to watch 4K HDR because it does produce the superior image.


That is my experience also and is how it should be.
As I said I am quite certain expectations are set too high and/or settings are messed up.


----------



## VinnieB

Question, should I be using a specific color mode when setting/watching HDR? I can't find it, but I thought I read there was only one color mode that supported the color range, maybe Digital Cinema? 

Anyway, I have the Spears & Munsil UHD HDR disc and been messing with that on Bright Cinema. After setting all the picture settings and running the demo they have at HDR 600, I found the HDR setting 3 is best, especially when they get to the snow scene with the horses. Auto bright and auto, which is just 1 and 2, takes all the detail out. A lot of peoples settings I'm see have it set to auto bright, why is that when you lose so much detail?


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> Question, should I be using a specific color mode when setting/watching HDR? I can't find it, but I thought I read there was only one color mode that supported the color range, maybe Digital Cinema?
> 
> Anyway, I have the Spears & Munsil UHD HDR disc and been messing with that on Bright Cinema. After setting all the picture settings and running the demo they have at HDR 600, I found the HDR setting 3 is best, especially when they get to the snow scene with the horses. Auto bright and auto, which is just 1 and 2, takes all the detail out. A lot of peoples settings I'm see have it set to auto bright, why is that when you lose so much detail?


Yes BT2020 is the one should always be used that is what UHD content is mastered for. It is the default for Digital Cinema.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> Yes BT2020 is the one should always be used that is what UHD content is mastered for. It is the default for Digital Cinema.


Got it, thanks. So when I'm setting up 4k HDR I want to adjust settings in Digital Cinema, correct? And 4k SDR doesn't matter which mode?


----------



## VinnieB

john hunter said:


> All these settings are years old.
> Various firmware upgrades and use of the Panasonic Optimiser have created more and better options.
> Why don't you try Adam's up to date ones in the Display Calibration webpage.





Archaea said:


> I installed the newest 1.14 firmware immediately when it came out.
> 
> Thats the only firmware that came out in the last year. I bought the Panasonic player because it is the best option.
> 
> I will gladly try more display settings. I’m a tinkerer and thorough tester by nature.
> 
> Please point me to the settings you refer to with a link.
> 
> The settings I linked aren’t that old, when I bought this projector last April and couldn’t find a comfortable satisfaction with HDR, I asked lots of questions in this thread and those are some of the most popular settings to date. Those are the settings many people said they found satisfaction with. I received PMs from people giving me their personal settings to try. I’ve tried dozens of settings. I’ll try more - point me at them.


I would like to see this link also.


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> Got it, thanks. So when I'm setting up 4k HDR I want to adjust settings in Digital Cinema, correct? And 4k SDR doesn't matter which mode?


Correct. SDR best mode is natural that is the most accurate.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> Correct. SDR best mode is natural that is the most accurate.


Awesome, thanks. So I do a setting with Digital Cinema with 4k HDR for dark room, Natural for 4k SDR for dark room and I'll use Bright Cinema for lights on. Or do you recommend another mode for lights on?


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> Awesome, thanks. So I do a setting with Digital Cinema with 4k HDR for dark room, Natural for 4k SDR for dark room and I'll use Bright Cinema for lights on. Or do you recommend another mode for lights on?


I am in a bat cave so I can't comment on bright usage conditions but yes Digital Cinema in dark and Natural for normal viewing and Bright cinema for viewing when any ambient light is present.

If the environment and sources are correctly set up you should not need to touch any of major settings such as Contrast/brightness. You should only need to tinker with Image enhancements and gamma (but gamma that is ONLY if you know how to calibrate).

I'll check my calibration and settings and post it here.


----------



## Bandyka

I had a glimpse into Dark Phoenix, it is a dark movie by default so it is not a good example of testing HDR and shadow detail IMO.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> I am in a bat cave so I can't comment on bright usage conditions but yes Digital Cinema in dark and Natural for normal viewing and Bright cinema for viewing when any ambient light is present.
> 
> If the environment and sources are correctly set up you should not need to touch any of major settings such as Contrast/brightness. You should only need to tinker with Image enhancements and gamma (but gamma that is ONLY if you know how to calibrate).


"but gamma that is ONLY if you know how to calibrate" That, I do not. Nor do I have the tools to really calibrate. A few years ago I had Jeff from AccuCal come to my home and do my TV. I understand he is retired now and does calibration remotely, but I'm still on the fence about that. For now, I just have Spears & Munsil disc.

I too also have a bat cave.


----------



## Archaea

Bandyka said:


> The RS 600 is an older gen and HDR sucked on those that is the X9000. Also since 2017 native HDR performance of the Epson has improved.
> Your Jaw dropped mostly due to its contrast performance and yes that is why I regret selling mine. Nothing comes close to it and I suspect nothing ever will, all new PJ including JVC cannot touch those native contrast figures.



The RS600 threw the most impressive projector image I have seen to this day. And I’ve probably seen well over 100 different enthusiast rooms with projectors during the many home theater crawls and g2gs and trade shows I’ve attended. My room is completely light controlled. No windows and matte painted black walls with black light absorption theater black f ceiling panels. (3% light reflectivity). That projector was the only projector I’ve ever seen that looked like it could throw black (and not just light) at the screen. The NX7 that I’ve seen in three of my buddies room is a better projector overall, but I can’t shake that RS600 image from my memory. I had that projector in my room for a couple weeks. I should have bought it.

Sadly I never saw a RS620 or RS640. I assume they only improved, and you are correct that the NX7 does not enjoy the same contrast advantages and that is apparent. But the dynamic HDR settings on the NX7 make up for an awful lot bringing great detail to otherwise murky black scenes.


----------



## Bandyka

Archaea said:


> The RS600 threw the most impressive projector image I have seen to this day. And I’ve probably seen well over 100 different enthusiast rooms with projectors during the many home theater crawls and g2gs and trade shows I’ve attended. My room is completely light controlled. No windows and matte painted black walls with black light absorption theater black f ceiling panels. (3% light reflectivity). That projector was the only projector I’ve ever seen that looked like it could throw black (and not just light) at the screen. The NX7 that I’ve seen in three of my buddies room is a better projector overall, but I can’t shake that RS600 image from my memory. I had that projector in my room for a couple weeks. I should have bought it.
> 
> Sadly I never saw a RS620 or RS640. I assume they only improved, and you are correct that the NX7 does not enjoy the same contrast advantages and that is apparent. But the dynamic HDR settings on the NX7 make up for an awful lot bringing great detail to otherwise murky black scenes.


Yep I agree I very much regret selling my RS620 I've seen heaps of projectors and owned over 20 in the past few years but none had come close to it in terms of sheer dynamics which is the most important part of the image. The 640 I wasn't all that impressed with as the new e-shift was too soft IMO. Yes the new NX are top of the crop when it comes HDR, nothing beats them. I nearly got the celebratory version the 20LTD but passed on it due to light engine issues and again the softer e-shift, that was the only other PJ that had even deeper contrast but nothing else comes close. Contrast does matter big time.
This little Epson however does wonders considering its street price.
I am keeping it until either new laser NX comes out or the next laser native 4K from Epson. I did love my LS10000, the laser engine has a beautiful calm stable image to it.


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> "but gamma that is ONLY if you know how to calibrate" That, I do not. Nor do I have the tools to really calibrate. A few years ago I had Jeff from AccuCal come to my home and do my TV. I understand he is retired now and does calibration remotely, but I'm still on the fence about that. For now, I just have Spears & Munsil disc.
> 
> I too also have a bat cave.


Kool I found a few times that by looking at calibration discs it suggests to adjust contrast and brightness however after looking at it with a proper meter and tools and content I confirmed it was all wrong and they had to be set back to 0. This has been the case on ALL projectors I owned. I never had to adjust contrast and brightness when sources and the room was setup right and this is the case with this Epson as well.


----------



## VinnieB

Bandyka said:


> Kool I found a few times that by looking at calibration discs it suggests to adjust contrast and brightness however after looking at it with a proper meter and tools and content I confirmed it was all wrong and they had to be set back to 0. This has been the case on ALL projectors I owned. I never had to adjust contrast and brightness when sources and the room was setup right and this is the case with this Epson as well.


Thanks, default on the Epson is 50. 0 would be all the way down.


----------



## stitch1

Bandyka said:


> I had a glimpse into Dark Phoenix, it is a dark movie by default so it is not a good example of testing HDR and shadow detail IMO.


Why not? Because the Epson can't handle it? The JVC certainly does. 

However, the movie isn't very good so there is that reason. I don't think I would want to watch it again and again testing things. lol


----------



## Bandyka

stitch1 said:


> Why not? Because the Epson can't handle it? The JVC certainly does.
> 
> However, the movie isn't very good so there is that reason. I don't think I would want to watch it again and again testing things. lol


Because its a dark movie by default and without tone mapping it won't look any good that's why. It looks crap on the TV too without tone mapping.

The very first UHD discs mostly all suffered from bad mastering making them too dark. This is one example of those although not an old one.

Satisfied?


----------



## Bandyka

VinnieB said:


> Thanks, default on the Epson is 50. 0 would be all the way down.


Yes 50 is 0.


----------



## b_scott

do the refurbs come with the latest firmware? I don't think I know where to check the version on my projector.


----------



## Archaea

Bandyka said:


> Because its a dark movie by default and without tone mapping it won't look any good that's why. It looks crap on the TV too without tone mapping.
> 
> The very first UHD discs mostly all suffered from bad mastering making them too dark. This is one example of those although not an old one.
> 
> Satisfied?



I think his point is you say it looks bad and immediately dismissed it as a poorly authored HDR movie thats too dark. Watching it on my 5040UB I was disgusted with it too.

Now swing back to our shared experience watching that same content on our buddies NX7, and I know I personally thought that scene (first time I’d ever seen it) was a reference quality, demo worthy, amazingly recorded night scene that I wanted a demo clip of to share with my guests I was so impressed. I even commented at the time that the quality of that night scene recording was amazing.

I bring it home to the Epson 5040UB and its a murky unwatchable mess. Utterly disappointing.

I don’t really care how it’s accomplished— via excellent scene by scene dynamic HDR after the fact on the JVC, or by original excellent authoring, thats immaterial for this immediate conversation comparing the HDR presentation. The difference between the way the two projectors displayed that movie was tremendous. The Epson 5040UB is nearly unwatchable, and on the JVC NX7 it looked like a stellar reference level recording.


----------



## Bandyka

Archaea said:


> I think his point is you say it looks bad and immediately dismissed it as a poorly authored HDR movie thats too dark. Watching it on my 5040UB I was disgusted with it too.
> 
> Now swing back to our shared experience watching that same content on our buddies NX7, and I know I personally thought that scene (first time I’d ever seen it) was a reference quality, demo worthy, amazingly recorded night scene that I wanted a demo clip of to share with my guests I was so impressed. I even commented at the time that the quality of that night scene recording was amazing.
> 
> I bring it home to the Epson 5040UB and its a murky unwatchable mess. Utterly disappointing.
> 
> I don’t really care how it’s accomplished— via excellent scene by scene dynamic HDR after the fact on the JVC, or by original excellent authoring, thats immaterial for this immediate conversation comparing the HDR presentation. The difference between the way the two projectors displayed that movie was tremendous. The Epson 5040UB is nearly unwatchable, and on the JVC NX7 it looked like a stellar reference level recording.


No one is questioning that part. Will you pay multiple times the price of the Epson to have such movies presented in that sort of quality?


----------



## VinnieB

b_scott said:


> do the refurbs come with the latest firmware? I don't think I know where to check the version on my projector.


Mine did, came with new firmware, new bulb, new filter, new case and even looked like a new lens. Unless they do a fantastic job at cleaning lenses.


----------



## stitch1

Bandyka said:


> Because its a dark movie by default and without tone mapping it won't look any good that's why. It looks crap on the TV too without tone mapping.
> 
> The very first UHD discs mostly all suffered from bad mastering making them too dark. This is one example of those although not an old one.
> 
> Satisfied?


Ah man, now you are going to make me bust it back out to try on my Sony 900F TV.  Oh well, my wife wanted to see it anyways. sigh


----------



## Bandyka

stitch1 said:


> Ah man, now you are going to make me bust it back out to try on my Sony 900F TV.  Oh well, my wife wanted to see it anyways. sigh


hehe its going to look better on the TV by a good margin. There are some that we watch in the living room as well for this reason.


----------



## Archaea

Bandyka said:


> No one is questioning that part. Will you pay multiple times the price of the Epson to have such movies presented in that sort of quality?



Hmmmmm $6K. Thats a tough pill to swallow. Especially when I can just disable HDR and be pleasantly pleased with the final results for my $1200 refurb Epson 5040UB projector...

But thats what I’ve been trying to say all along. 
I’m disappointed with how this projector does HDR, until I disable it, then I’m quite pleased with how this projector does SDR.


I’m with you on waiting until there is a laser true 4K projector with properly implemented HDR and 2.1 HDMI for less than $5k. But I might settle for next gen JVC even if not laser if they implement HDMI 2.1 properly. I don’t game on my projector now, because I’m spoiled by VRR (gsync) and image quality/resolution and 120hz refresh rate on my Alienware AW3418DW monitor, but I’d like to game on my home theater system again and am hoping those updates will make it fun again.


----------



## stitch1

Bandyka said:


> I really don't see how one cannot be satisfied with HDR on this projector. I've had over 20 projectors in the past few years including the best of the best JVC. Tested the very best laser officially for manufacturers etc. I was on the forefront for years on this forum as well about HDR and various alternate options.
> 
> This is the first non laser PJ that I find throwing an acceptable image.
> 
> I am using MadvR and Jriver but even with the Panny player is fine even on mid lamp mode.
> 
> Either expectations are very high and unrealistic or settings are all over the place for many or both.
> Form what I have seen here settings can be vary erratic indeed.
> 
> That's my experience just trying to offer a realistic perspective so you are not trying to chase the unattainable.





Bandyka said:


> I had a glimpse into Dark Phoenix, it is a dark movie by default so it is not a good example of testing HDR and shadow detail IMO.





Bandyka said:


> Because its a dark movie by default and without tone mapping it won't look any good that's why. It looks crap on the TV too without tone mapping.
> 
> The very first UHD discs mostly all suffered from bad mastering making them too dark. This is one example of those although not an old one.
> 
> Satisfied?





Bandyka said:


> hehe its going to look better on the TV by a good margin. There are some that we watch in the living room as well for this reason.


So you say the HDR on this projector is as good as the best of the best JVCs. Yet it can't play back dark movies as well. 

You say that same dark movie won't look good on a TV either. But then later say it will look better on a TV by a good margin. 



Either the Epson looks as good as the best of JVC or it doesn't.
The poorly authored HDR disk looks great on a JVC and on a TV but not the Epson. Yet, the Epson has excellent HDR as good as anything out there!!!!!!


----------



## b_scott

I feel like this thread has been derailed.


----------



## Archaea

@stitch1,

haha, that meme image is too true!


@b_scott
This thread is 19,600 posts long. If all we talked about were firmware updates it'd be a bit shorter.  
I'm an owner of the Epson 5040UB. I am continually seeking out ways to make it preform optimally. There's no derail going on here.

Here is your link to the firmware 1.14 which is the newest for the Epson 5040UB
https://epson.com/Support/wa00805??...1671&cjevent=1e04f92c478f11ea829c00870a1c0e14

You'll need a small USB drive with a FAT16 to update. You can tell if your firmware is the newest available by going into the version menu and seeing if your number ends in 114.


----------



## Bandyka

stitch1 said:


> So you say the HDR on this projector is as good as the best of the best JVCs. Yet it can't play back dark movies as well.
> 
> You say that same dark movie won't look good on a TV either. But then later say it will look better on a TV by a good margin.
> 
> 
> 
> Either the Epson looks as good as the best of JVC or it doesn't.
> The poorly authored HDR disk looks great on a JVC and on a TV but not the Epson. Yet, the Epson has excellent HDR as good as anything out there!!!!!!


I am not even going to respond to this  I have not said these things the way you just described but I was expecting this kind of reply judging by your very first one 
This reminds of why I stopped spending time on forums


----------



## b_scott

Archaea said:


> @stitch1,
> 
> haha, that meme image is too true!
> 
> @b_scott
> This thread is 19,600 posts long. If all we talked about were firmware updates it'd be a bit shorter.
> I'm an owner of the Epson 5040UB. I am continually seeking out ways to make it preform optimally. There's no derail going on here.


JVC is slightly better. Epson is just as good. JVC is uber better. Epson sucks except it's a lot cheaper. Etc. OK we get it....


----------



## Archaea

b_scott said:


> JVC is slightly better. Epson is just as good. JVC is uber better. Epson sucks except it's a lot cheaper. Etc. OK we get it....


Here is your link to the firmware 1.14 which is the newest for the Epson 5040UB
https://epson.com/Support/wa00805??u...9c00870a1c0e14

You'll need a small USB drive with a FAT16 to update (I had luck with a 1GB Flash drive). You can tell if your firmware is the newest available by going into the version menu and seeing if your number ends in 114. The link has both documentation on how to, and the files necessaary.


----------



## Bandyka

This Dark P movie would look too dark on anything without tone mapping compared top the device's capabilities. Just checked the SDR version as well that doesn't look crash hot either with a washed out image, it is simply not a very well mastered movie as simple as that. Just checked Alita B A for a sanity check and I was very satisfied so I am closing this discussion on my part. And trust me I am famous for scrutinizing image quality as many here would know as well on the JVC and Sony forums.


----------



## stitch1

b_scott said:


> I feel like this thread has been derailed.


Sorry, that is my fault. Regardless of my reasoning, I will see myself out. I'm not really here to argue. I do like a strong debate with conversation. That doesn't seem to be the path we are heading. As I said before I don't own a 5040 and I have no reason to buy one so I will see myself off this thread. 

Again sorry for the derailment.


----------



## b_scott

stitch1 said:


> Sorry, that is my fault. Regardless of my reasoning, I will see myself out. I'm not really here to argue. I do like a strong debate with conversation. That doesn't seem to be the path we are heading. As I said before I don't own a 5040 and I have no reason to buy one so I will see myself off this thread.
> 
> Again sorry for the derailment.


No worries. I tried to click your Theater Build link but it's broken?


----------



## olegg

Received mine just yesterday. Checked firmware - it's latest, lamp was showing also 0H. Now, can anyone weight on Total Operation Time: 7766H I have on this PJ I think is excessive?


----------



## olegg

VinnieB said:


> Mine did, came with new firmware, new bulb, new filter, new case and even looked like a new lens. Unless they do a fantastic job at cleaning lenses.


I wonder when you checked your firmware you also checked Total operation hours on your PJ?


----------



## b_scott

is anyone else's HDMI 1 input (the 2.2 one) very loose? I plug my HDMI in and it feels like it's just going to fall out.


----------



## inspector

How do you find total hours on the pj, I don’t mean lamp hours...or are they the same?


----------



## Archaea

inspector said:


> How do you find total hours on the pj, I don’t mean lamp hours...or are they the same?


https://factory-reset.com/wiki/Epson_Service_Menu


----------



## DavidinGA

stitch1 said:


> @Bandyka I don't really have a dog in this fight. I have a Panasonic AE8000U 1080p projector. @Archaea was trying to convince me to upgrade to the 5040 but so far I have seen very little reason to make that change. Now the NX7 that a local friend has makes me want to. However, the price is much harder to justify without having the new HDMI spec included. If I am going to spend that kind of money I would rather wait a bit longer for HDMI 2.1. Realizing the price difference between the JVC NX7 and the Epson 5040 isn't much of a fair comparison. However, it seems they were brought up so here's my 2 cents on it.
> 
> 
> 
> As an SDR 1080p Blu-ray projector the Epson 5040 seems like a beast. It's bright with good colors and contrast and a sharp image. It has really nice features that older Epsons didn't like the lens memory. If available at the peak of Blu-rays this would have been a no brainer purchase for the value it offers.
> 
> 
> 
> As an HDR 2160p UHD projector the Epson 5040 doesn't even move the needle for me. When in HDR mode the detail in the darker end of the brightness spectrum becomes a mess. Most of the time everything is just too dark and washed out that you can hardly tell what is going on. Then there are times that something super bright will happen and you get blinded to the point of flinching. It's just not an enjoyable experience.
> 
> 
> 
> In comparison, the same clips on the JVC NX7 had amazing detail. Going back to the clip from Dark Phoenix @Archaea referred to. You could see everything clearly and with great detail. You could clearly tell what was going on. Watching the same clip back with the Epson turned it into a grey murky mess. The image lost all clarity and detail. Not just unrealistic expectations but being able to see what is actually happening in the film seems pretty important to me. We then watched the same clip again in SDR and it looked great on the Epson. All the low end is brought back up to a usable brightness and you can clearly see whats going on again. On the bright side of the image both JVC and Epson did well. It's just the darker stuff becomes unbearable on the Epson
> 
> 
> 
> This is just one example but everything across the board was better in HDR while on the JVC. Where I wouldn't even want to use HDR on the Epson. As someone that REALLY wants HDR on their projector, I can not justify the short comings of the 5040. I would rather wait with my very outdated SDR 1080 Panasonic than to "upgrade" to a 5040.


What if I told you HDR on the 5040 with MadVR is better than JVC's HDR on the NX7....?



Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## olegg

b_scott said:


> is anyone else's HDMI 1 input (the 2.2 one) very loose? I plug my HDMI in and it feels like it's just going to fall out.


Mine is kind of loose as well, but not to the point of fall out ...


----------



## inspector

Archaea said:


> https://factory-reset.com/wiki/Epson_Service_Menu


Thanks, I‘ll try it tomorrow.


----------



## john hunter

Archaea said:


> I installed the newest 1.14 firmware immediately when it came out.
> 
> Thats the only firmware that came out in the last year. I bought the Panasonic player because it is the best option.
> 
> I will gladly try more display settings. I’m a tinkerer and thorough tester by nature.
> 
> Please point me to the settings you refer to with a link.
> 
> The settings I linked aren’t that old, when I bought this projector last April and couldn’t find a comfortable satisfaction with HDR, I asked lots of questions in this thread and those are some of the most popular settings to date. Those are the settings many people said they found satisfaction with. I received PMs from people giving me their personal settings to try. I’ve tried dozens of settings. I’ll try more - point me at them.


I think you will find that the settings you refer to are from about 2017 if you ran a search thru this thread.
3/4 years old in AV years is probably the Middle Ages.

The settings I was referring to are in Display Calibration -Projector Calibration (6040UB)-Second Look.
Adam has lots of setting and uses Natural for 4k but I prefer Cinema or Digital Cinema.
However his settings are a good place to start playing.
Current thought from the Spears and Munsil guys is to use minimal adjustments to the basic Cinema/digital cinema settings.
With the Optimiser in play, they are surprisingly good.
Indeed my jaw is sometimes on the floor.
I can't then see how any one can complain but that's life I suppose.


----------



## inspector

inspector said:


> Thanks, I‘ll try it tomorrow.


Nothing worked. I tried the remote (method 3) but there is no HELP button. Does anyone know where it is or if another button is also the HELP button?


----------



## Archaea

inspector said:


> Nothing worked. I tried the remote (method 3) but there is no HELP button. Does anyone know where it is or if another button is also the HELP button?


The other I got from a websearch. This I went back and found in the thread. I just tested on mine. This works.

Try this
Hold menu for 8 seconds
Press Esc 2x
Press right arrow then left arrow
The service menu will pop up.


----------



## inspector

You beat me to it, but I didn't use the L/R arrow and the menu popped up anyway..


----------



## Archaea

DavidinGA said:


> What if I told you HDR on the 5040 with MadVR is better than JVC's HDR on the NX7....?


 @noob00224, and @Bandyka

I had MadVR set up and a .lut file calibrated last fall by High Impact AV. I personally didn't find it significantly better than the Panasonic, and since my media is nearly 100% on retail disks, I didn't think it worth the hassle to move everything over to digital from my disks. I used J-river and MadVR for demo purposes with short clips I make or copy off demo disks. Tonight @SOWK graciously walked me through getting MadVR updated, and optimized the way he recommended -- and enabling dynamic HDR. He said MadVR had made a lit of progress since last fall and I still had the old files. We still are putting out SDR 709 to the projector, but it looks significantly better now with the newer MadVR files and HDR translation from the source media in place. I first watched that Dark Phoenix scene without any changes from my settings last fall, and then after SOWK had customized the settings I watched it again. I'm not going to say it's NX7 good, but it's definitely superior to what it was without the dynamic HDR translation occurring, and is now watchable without making me frustrated. I can actually see what's going on in the woods now and the dinner table scene seems twice as bright at least. (it was way too dark before). I think this is about as good as my 5040UB projector has ever looked, now with the updated MadVR files/settings in place.

On the HDR settings, what settings do you guys use for our 5040UB? This is what we were trying.










Does this seem close to what you use? I'm on a 144" Cinema Scope 2.35:1 screen with Seymour XD fabric. (1.0-1.1 gain depending on who you ask). I feel like these settings might be ever so slightly too bright, but 75 seemed too dim at first blush, and I'm curious where others put theirs. I also feel like the MadVR settings are giving me ever so slight a greenish tint as opposed to the Panasonic player which seems neutral in color - however SOWK told me MADVR shouldn't be doing anything to the colors. This was a very slight greenish cast to the picture almost unnoticeable but definitely there in many clips, but most apparent when I got to my Interstellar clip and Matthew M.’s tan skin had a hint of green undertone I’ve not seen before. I pulled up the tint slider on the 5040UB and had to move it from 50 default to closer to 45 to get his skin tone right. I’ve never had to move my tint slider before. Almost like the extra brightness hack the MadVR settings are doing is pulling just a hint of the nasty discoloration from the 5040UB’s dynamic color mode. It probably sounds worse than it is, but it is slightly present as I watched through those couple hours of clips I’m exceptionally familiar with from many demo sessions. Projector color mode was set to my favorite, natural and the only deviation I have from there, at my own preference IIRC, is color saturation at 52, and image enhancement at 3.

Overall, I can see a clear improvement in dark settings with 4K HDR source content, and a tick up improvement in sharpness and image quality across the board compared to what I've seen in the past. I have a Nvidia 2080 video card for reference. I re-watched these couple hours worth of my demo clips and am pleasantly surprised with the MadVR results across the board - sans this couple little minor niggles. It felt like a half step upgrade on the 5040UB projector I’ve used over the last year. A 1/2 step upgrade for free? Yes please!

What settings do you recommend I pay close attention to in the MadVR settings in order to get the best picture out of my 5040UB given your experiences? Is there a thread or post you know of already for further 5040UB optimization with MadVR?


----------



## noob00224

Archaea said:


> @*noob00224* , and @*Bandyka*
> 
> I had MadVR intentionally setup and a .lut file calibrated last fall by High Impact AV. I personally didn't find it significantly better than the Panasonic, and since my media is nearly 100% on retail disks, I didn't think it worth the hassle to move everything over to digital from my disks. I used J-river and MadVR for demo purposes with short clips I make or copy off demo disks. Tonight @*SOWK* graciously walked me through getting MadVR updated, and optimized the way he recommended -- and enabling dynamic HDR. We still are putting out SDR 709 to the projector, but it looks significantly better now with the newer MadVR files and HDR translation from the source media in place. I first watched that Dark Phoenix scene without any changes from my settings last fall, and then after SOWK had customized the settings I watched it again. I'm not going to say it's NX7 good, but it's definitely superior to what it was without the dynamic HDR translation occurring, and is now watchable without making me frustrated. I can actually see what's going on in the woods now and the dinner table scene seems twice as bright at least. (it was way too dark before). I think this is about as good as my projector has looked with the updated MadVR files/settings.
> 
> On the HDR settings, what settings do you guys use for our 5040UB? This is what we were trying.
> 
> 
> Does this seem close to what you use? I'm on a 144" Cinema Scope 2.35:1 screen with Seymour XD fabric. (1.0-1.1 gain depending on who you ask). I feel like these settings might be ever so slightly too bright, but 75 seemed too dim at first blush, and I'm curious where others put theirs. I also feel like the MadVR settings are giving me ever so slight a greenish tint as opposed to the Panasonic player which seems a bit more neutral in color - however SOWK told me MADVR shouldn't be doing anything to the colors. I can see a clear improvement in dark settings with 4K HDR source content, and a tick up improvement in sharpness and image quality across the board compared to what I've seen in the past. I have a Nvidia 2080 video card for reference. I re-watched a couple hours worth of my demo clips and am pleasantly surprised with the MadVR results across the board - sans this couple little minor niggles.
> 
> What settings do you recommend I pay close attention to in the MadVR settings in order to get the best picture out of my 5040UB given your experiences? Is there a thread or post you know of already for the 5040UB optimization with MadVR?


There's no such thing as optimized settings for madvr. You have to see what every setting does and if you like it.

For starters:
Disable dynamic clipping.
Display peak nits should be the real nits of the screen. Use a light meter (or other device), or use this: https://webprojectorcalculator.com/
Dynamic target nits is a slider, lower is less HDR effect, higher is more.
Use desaturate 1+2 or
Some users claim there is an oversaturation/color shift with the reds and click on compromise on HDR tone & gamut mapping accuracy in rendering>trade quality for performance. It's visible more at lower nits than at higher (real display nits that is)


For color gamut the Epson can do well over REC.709 even with the filter off, so use DCI or Rec.2020. Ask @*DavidinGA* about this since he's done some experimenting or search his posts here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2215490-madvr-player-support-thread-86.html

I think you can load the lut in madvr, but not sure of the details in regards to the tone mapping feature or color gamuts, better inquire in the thread above.

Thread with what settings are used by others:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/3127778-madvr-hdr-settings.html

There are other setting for madvr, I don't know what's set in the other sections of your setup:
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188


----------



## jbnpaul

DavidinGA said:


> What if I told you HDR on the 5040 with MadVR is better than JVC's HDR on the NX7....?


This is exactly what I use. tone map using MadVR to SDR. But then again the projector is not getting HDR. It is only getting SDR.

I expect this to perform better than NX7 HDR. But I would also expect NX7 to be better than 5040 when it is used with madVR.

Here are my thoughts on HDR using 5040.
There are three specific improvements one can get with 4K HDR.
1. Better color (BT2020)
2. Dynamic range (difference in lowest and brightest spots on the screen)
3. More pixels

My understanding the projector (bulb) produces the same amount of nits irrespective off the input (SDR or HDR). Assuming the projector can produce 100 nits max what are your options when a 400 nit HDR image is input to it?
Since the projector can not produce more than 100 nits, it uses some algorithm to approximate the output. In my case most of the HDR images end up looking simply far too dark. May be the image preserves the dynamic range ... but it is too dark. And I don't like dark, and I want bright.

After chasing HDR for a while ... I realized in almost all content I have tried ... the SDR image looks stunning/jaw dropping. But the HDR ends up being far too dark. So simply telling my Apple TV not to use HDR solved all my problems.

Here is my conclusion ... The real problem here is 5040 can not produce the brightness required for HDR. And this is also the case with NX7. But what NX-7 does is tone mapping ( dynamic - based on the current frame ). 

Consider an HDR movie which has a range of around 400 nits. Now consider an HDR scene which is dark but has 200 nits highlights in a small area ... but most of the frame where all the action happens is say less than 40 nits. Now what happens when 5040 attempts to display it? The highlight will be 50 nits. But the rest of the scene( where the actions happens) gets only 10 nits. So you end up watching a really dark movie.

NX-7 which can do dynamic tone mapping ... can simply adjust the tone mapping on frame by frame basis... So it can simply brighten the above frame ... by rendering the bright highlight using 100 nits but then 20 nits for the dark area. Now the action is bright by a factor of two. 

Now this is what madVR does as well, and what madVR does is leaps and bounds better than NX-7 does. But the big difference is ... it tone maps to SDR. But maintains 4K pixels and BT2020 color space. So you get 2 out of 3 benefits of HDR. The 3rd one which is the dynamic range, we have no way to actually produce it due to hardware limitations of 5040.

But MadVR does its magic and provides an enormous number of configuration options so that you can control the tone mapping. I like my movies bright. So I configure it so that I can see what happens in the dark area. I have no real data ... but with MadVR the highlight will be 100 nits ... but the dark area might still average around 35 (May be even more than 40 with some configuration updates). In short you end up seeing the action in the dark area as expected but lose some of the dynamic range(the highlight is less bright) in the process.

My understanding is a number of HDR settings that people have, tries to do this exact same thing by playing around with gamma etc. But I don't think it is possible to do anything that is even remotely closer to what can be achieved with MadVR.
You can optimize the projector for one scene or one movie ... but then a different movie/scene that would look worse.

Jaws drop every time I demo my 5040. Couple of my friends bought 5050 after they had a demo at my home. I was happy with the HDR until I watched the same content with only SDR. I couldn't make sense how SDR can look better than HDR when I am using the same disc. I always thought even though 5040(Or most projectors) can not do 100% HDR, there would at least be some improvement. At least in my experience this is simply not the case.

without madVR you lose BT2020 color space. So vs a regular Blu-ray, 4K will look better due to higher resolution and better colors. But at the same time, will also look darker and this was frustrating. MadVR fixes all these. you get the pixels and BT2020. And it also does tone mapping so that each frame can be rendered optimally


----------



## VinnieB

Well, I've been playing around all morning since around 7am. Installed my new peerless mount, love the gear adjustment and spent hours using the spears & munsil 4k hdr benchmark disc. I did SDR first using natural mode, both for lights off and lights on. Then I did digital cinema for 4k HDR and then I used bright cinema for gaming. Did a mode for lights on and lights off. I'm happy with the outcome and I prefer 4k60 SDR over using the linker to get 4k HDR, so now I'm not using the linker at all. 

Here's some pics I took and I adjusted my camera to get it to match what I was seeing. This are from the Xbox One X, 4k60 SDR.


----------



## MrMonkeeMan

I just got a Shield Pro and while the picture looks better than the Firestick 4K out of the box, HDR content on Plex, Netflix and Disney+ is just way too dark. Reading through the forums, it's suggested that I turn off HDR but I can't figure out how to do it on the Shield or the Firestick. 

On the Shield Pro, 4K 60Hz seems to work somewhat but Plex 4K HDR movies still come out dark and the projector info says that it's HDR. 

The Firestick 4K just has an option for adaptive HDR which doesn't turn it off.

Can anyone give me some suggestions? Thanks!


----------



## Archaea

I couldn’t figure out how to avoid HDR at 4K with my 4K Firestick, so I bought a 4K Roku stick which can have 60Hz 4K with no HDR as an option. It’s the easy button for all things streaming.


----------



## noob00224

@Archaea I forgot to say you can watch a HDR movie you're familiar with, that you've seen with the Panasonic and compare.

@jbnpaul there's some confusion here.

The bulb is not putting out the nits, it's the projector as a whole. 
There are different presets that will have different brightness levels from SDR, both on the Epson and JVC.

I don't understand how you are watching SDR and HDR from the same disc. HDR is not SDR.
HDR and SDR are not the same thing, they don't look the same, nor should they. Above everything else, the grading is done differently for HDR rather than SDR. SDR is mastered at 100 nits and HDR at 1000/4000 nits mostly. For the same frame on the same movie, if the raw data is measured, HDR is darker than SDR.
The reason SDR can look better than HDR is because they've been doing SDR mastering for decades and there are projectors are actually bright enough, and can play them natively. With HDR it's up to the manufacturer to develop a HDR tone mapping feature which is not standardized with other manufacturers or studios. 

Dynamic range is simply what the projector can do from the darkest to the brightest point. As long as it's configured correctly the dynamic range is mostly the same on SDR and HDR. It's up to the tone mapping algorithm to use it properly. There's no hardware limitation. 

It does not matter if one projector receives madvr tone mapped HDR vs. HDR tone mapped by the projector. The HDR signal gets tone mapped at a certain point. It's the same process. 

It's not really accurate to call SDR that resulted from a HDR signal after tone mapping to original SDR. The display recognizes it as SDR, but the way it got that way is different to a video that was mastered in SDR.

The reason HDR is dark on the 5040UB is because the tone mapping feature/curve renders it this way. Madvr and JVC's algo tone map frame by frame.


Madvr has nothing to do with the color space. Either the extended color space is there or it isn't. UHD movies usually have the extended color space, 1080p blu rays are limited to REC.709. 

WCG can be tone mapped to REC.709 by madvr or other software/hardware, and although it often comes packaged with 4K UHD it's a separate feature.


There's cases where streaming services tone map the 4K HDR video and send it in 4K tone mapped. Or dowscale to 1080p but the signal is not tone mapped, it's still HDR. WCG can also be tone mapped to REC.709 in these cases.


----------



## Stephen1254

*Change in Focus With Different Picture Modes?*

I go back and forth between the Bright Cinema and Natural color modes. I find when I switch to the Natural Mode, the picture is out of focus for a period of time, then seems to sharpen its focus. Has anyone else seen this? Does anyone else refocus the projector when switching between modes?


----------



## VinnieB

Archaea said:


> https://factory-reset.com/wiki/Epson_Service_Menu


Thanks, none of them worked for me tho but holding Menu for 8 seconds then ESC ESC worked.

This refurb has a total of 540 hours.


----------



## DerKonig

Well just received my 5040ub refurbish coming off the 5030ub. I just had the 4010 for 2 weeks and decided to return it. I have a dust blob on the left top corner but im not sure if im gonna return it cause the picture is amazing. I just had it for 4 days but here are some HDR, im still crushing some highligts but getting there. For SDR im playing around between Natural and Cinema, for HDR, digital cinema with one setting with auto bright and im leaning toward auto with 55 brightness, 65 constrat and 75 color on medium lamp with preset 4 for 4k. For sure on the pics the black are more deep then real life and im not crushing that bad on mera's hair, i guest my iPhone 8 does that.

I did try a couple of other setting with contrast to and 100, way to much crushing for me but i didn't play with the gamma curve yet, more to come


----------



## DerKonig

VinnieB said:


> Well, I've been playing around all morning since around 7am. Installed my new peerless mount, love the gear adjustment and spent hours using the spears & munsil 4k hdr benchmark disc. I did SDR first using natural mode, both for lights off and lights on. Then I did digital cinema for 4k HDR and then I used bright cinema for gaming. Did a mode for lights on and lights off. I'm happy with the outcome and I prefer 4k60 SDR over using the linker to get 4k HDR, so now I'm not using the linker at all.
> 
> Here's some pics I took and I adjusted my camera to get it to match what I was seeing. This are from the Xbox One X, 4k60 SDR.


Your picture is amazing


----------



## inspector

DerKonig said:


> Well just received my 5040ub refurbish coming off the 5030ub. I just had the 4010 for 2 weeks and decided to return it. I have a dust blob on the left top corner but im not sure if im gonna return it cause the picture is amazing. I just had it for 4 days but here are some HDR, im still crushing some highligts but getting there. For SDR im playing around between Natural and Cinema, for HDR, digital cinema with one setting with auto bright and im leaning toward auto with 55 brightness, 65 constrat and 75 color on medium lamp with preset 4 for 4k. For sure on the pics the black are more deep then real life and im not crushing that bad on mera's hair, i guest my iPhone 8 does that.
> 
> I didn try a couple of other setting with contrast to and 100, way to much crushing for me but i didn't play with the gamma curve yet, more to come



PM sent


----------



## Bandyka

Archaea said:


> @noob00224, and @Bandyka
> 
> I had MadVR set up and a .lut file calibrated last fall by High Impact AV. I personally didn't find it significantly better than the Panasonic, and since my media is nearly 100% on retail disks, I didn't think it worth the hassle to move everything over to digital from my disks. I used J-river and MadVR for demo purposes with short clips I make or copy off demo disks. Tonight @SOWK graciously walked me through getting MadVR updated, and optimized the way he recommended -- and enabling dynamic HDR. He said MadVR had made a lit of progress since last fall and I still had the old files. We still are putting out SDR 709 to the projector, but it looks significantly better now with the newer MadVR files and HDR translation from the source media in place. I first watched that Dark Phoenix scene without any changes from my settings last fall, and then after SOWK had customized the settings I watched it again. I'm not going to say it's NX7 good, but it's definitely superior to what it was without the dynamic HDR translation occurring, and is now watchable without making me frustrated. I can actually see what's going on in the woods now and the dinner table scene seems twice as bright at least. (it was way too dark before). I think this is about as good as my 5040UB projector has ever looked, now with the updated MadVR files/settings in place.
> 
> On the HDR settings, what settings do you guys use for our 5040UB? This is what we were trying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this seem close to what you use? I'm on a 144" Cinema Scope 2.35:1 screen with Seymour XD fabric. (1.0-1.1 gain depending on who you ask). I feel like these settings might be ever so slightly too bright, but 75 seemed too dim at first blush, and I'm curious where others put theirs. I also feel like the MadVR settings are giving me ever so slight a greenish tint as opposed to the Panasonic player which seems neutral in color - however SOWK told me MADVR shouldn't be doing anything to the colors. This was a very slight greenish cast to the picture almost unnoticeable but definitely there in many clips, but most apparent when I got to my Interstellar clip and Matthew M.’s tan skin had a hint of green undertone I’ve not seen before. I pulled up the tint slider on the 5040UB and had to move it from 50 default to closer to 45 to get his skin tone right. I’ve never had to move my tint slider before. Almost like the extra brightness hack the MadVR settings are doing is pulling just a hint of the nasty discoloration from the 5040UB’s dynamic color mode. It probably sounds worse than it is, but it is slightly present as I watched through those couple hours of clips I’m exceptionally familiar with from many demo sessions. Projector color mode was set to my favorite, natural and the only deviation I have from there, at my own preference IIRC, is color saturation at 52, and image enhancement at 3.
> 
> Overall, I can see a clear improvement in dark settings with 4K HDR source content, and a tick up improvement in sharpness and image quality across the board compared to what I've seen in the past. I have a Nvidia 2080 video card for reference. I re-watched these couple hours worth of my demo clips and am pleasantly surprised with the MadVR results across the board - sans this couple little minor niggles. It felt like a half step upgrade on the 5040UB projector I’ve used over the last year. A 1/2 step upgrade for free? Yes please!
> 
> What settings do you recommend I pay close attention to in the MadVR settings in order to get the best picture out of my 5040UB given your experiences? Is there a thread or post you know of already for further 5040UB optimization with MadVR?


Nice, This is what I said, its tone mapping that makes HDR look that damn good on the JVC, now you see  That remaining difference is in the projectors but the gap has narrowed considerably. Also you should be using SDR WCG not Rec709 that could be the reason why you are seeing the color shift.
I've been always saying MadVR is the way to go full stop.


----------



## Bandyka

jbnpaul said:


> This is exactly what I use. tone map using MadVR to SDR. But then again the projector is not getting HDR. It is only getting SDR.
> 
> I expect this to perform better than NX7 HDR. But I would also expect NX7 to be better than 5040 when it is used with madVR.
> 
> Here are my thoughts on HDR using 5040.
> There are three specific improvements one can get with 4K HDR.
> 1. Better color (BT2020)
> 2. Dynamic range (difference in lowest and brightest spots on the screen)
> 3. More pixels


Not exactly.
1, you can cna get this by using SDR and WCG BT 2020 as well and this is the preferred for many as all you are doing is removing HDR and keeping all the brightness SDR offer plus the WCG that comes with HDR
2, you lose this by stripping HDR however black levels are often better in SDR.
3, no more pixels that has nothing to do with HDR , that is simply the resolution.

Way too much incorrect info going on here.

This PJ will never perform better in any mode than the NX7 even if the HDR performance without tone mapping is great. The native HDR performance however is close to any JVC without tone mapping.


----------



## blastermaster

Hey all,

So I just installed my refurb 6040UB and my Panamorph UH40 lens. I am beyond blown away with how amazing the picture looks. I printed off the pdf of settings and used the bright cinema setting. I also have the Panasonic UB420 and set the luminance for projector. The only hiccup I can see so far is that when I press the HDR setting button on my blu ray remote, it tells me that it can only be used during HDR Output. Am I doing something wrong. I just upgraded from a 1080P projector, so all of this hdr stuff is completely new to me. I have the projector set to 4K enhancement, all new fiber optic HDMI cables and it's put in the right input in the back of the projector. Any ideas? I mean, I'm not complaining about the image. Wow. But if I can make it look better....


----------



## inspector

Some UHD discs do not have HDR.


----------



## ryudoadema

blastermaster said:


> Hey all,
> 
> So I just installed my refurb 6040UB and my Panamorph UH40 lens. I am beyond blown away with how amazing the picture looks. I printed off the pdf of settings and used the bright cinema setting. I also have the Panasonic UB420 and set the luminance for projector. The only hiccup I can see so far is that when I press the HDR setting button on my blu ray remote, it tells me that it can only be used during HDR Output. Am I doing something wrong. I just upgraded from a 1080P projector, so all of this hdr stuff is completely new to me. I have the projector set to 4K enhancement, all new fiber optic HDMI cables and it's put in the right input in the back of the projector. Any ideas? I mean, I'm not complaining about the image. Wow. But if I can make it look better....


Sounds to me like you're not playing 4k media since you are using 4k enhancement. HDR for the most part comes along with 4k content.


----------



## jbnpaul

blastermaster said:


> Hey all,
> 
> So I just installed my refurb 6040UB and my Panamorph UH40 lens. I am beyond blown away with how amazing the picture looks. I printed off the pdf of settings and used the bright cinema setting. I also have the Panasonic UB420 and set the luminance for projector. The only hiccup I can see so far is that when I press the HDR setting button on my blu ray remote, it tells me that it can only be used during HDR Output. Am I doing something wrong. I just upgraded from a 1080P projector, so all of this hdr stuff is completely new to me. I have the projector set to 4K enhancement, all new fiber optic HDMI cables and it's put in the right input in the back of the projector. Any ideas? I mean, I'm not complaining about the image. Wow. But if I can make it look better....



What content are you playing? You need to play a UHD HDR disc to get HDR.
Also I believe UB 420 have an option to tone map HDR to SDR. Make sure you are not using it.

I think you can also check what type of input the 420 is outputting using the 420 info menu.

And finally do you have an avr in between? Some avrs need their HDMI mode updated. And some older ones don't even support HDR.

Also make sure you are using hdmi1 on 5040.
And be aware there are bandwidth limits on 5040. So you can only get HDR with 24p and not of you provide 60p.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## blastermaster

jbnpaul said:


> What content are you playing? You need to play a UHD HDR disc to get HDR.
> Also I believe UB 420 have an option to tone map HDR to SDR. Make sure you are not using it.
> 
> I think you can also check what type of input the 420 is outputting using the 420 info menu.
> 
> And finally do you have an avr in between? Some avrs need their HDMI mode updated. And some older ones don't even support HDR.
> 
> Also make sure you are using hdmi1 on 5040.
> And be aware there are bandwidth limits on 5040. So you can only get HDR with 24p and not of you provide 60p.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I was watching GOTG2 in 4K. I have the Anthem 720. Oops! I wasn't using HDMI 1! Ok, so I switched to HDMI 1 and can now use the HDR setting button on my player. I switched it so that my audio out goes to my AVR and my player plugs directly into HDMI 1 of the Epson. It's a brand new fiber optic hdmi cable. When I press playback info on the player, here's what I get:

Video: 3840x2160/24p, hdr(pq)/BT.2020 YCbCr4:2:0/10bit
HDMI Video: 4K/24P HDR(PQ)/BT.2020 YCbCr4:2:2/12bit

That's all great, but whereas I tweaked the image settings on HDMI2 and was able to get 4K enhancement, now 4K enhancement is greyed out. Grrrr! What am I doing wrong? Thanks any and all help.


----------



## Bandyka

Archaea said:


> @noob00224, and @Bandyka
> 
> I had MadVR set up and a .lut file calibrated last fall by High Impact AV. I personally didn't find it significantly better than the Panasonic, and since my media is nearly 100% on retail disks, I didn't think it worth the hassle to move everything over to digital from my disks. I used J-river and MadVR for demo purposes with short clips I make or copy off demo disks. Tonight @SOWK graciously walked me through getting MadVR updated, and optimized the way he recommended -- and enabling dynamic HDR. He said MadVR had made a lit of progress since last fall and I still had the old files. We still are putting out SDR 709 to the projector, but it looks significantly better now with the newer MadVR files and HDR translation from the source media in place. I first watched that Dark Phoenix scene without any changes from my settings last fall, and then after SOWK had customized the settings I watched it again. I'm not going to say it's NX7 good, but it's definitely superior to what it was without the dynamic HDR translation occurring, and is now watchable without making me frustrated. I can actually see what's going on in the woods now and the dinner table scene seems twice as bright at least. (it was way too dark before). I think this is about as good as my 5040UB projector has ever looked, now with the updated MadVR files/settings in place.
> 
> On the HDR settings, what settings do you guys use for our 5040UB? This is what we were trying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this seem close to what you use? I'm on a 144" Cinema Scope 2.35:1 screen with Seymour XD fabric. (1.0-1.1 gain depending on who you ask). I feel like these settings might be ever so slightly too bright, but 75 seemed too dim at first blush, and I'm curious where others put theirs. I also feel like the MadVR settings are giving me ever so slight a greenish tint as opposed to the Panasonic player which seems neutral in color - however SOWK told me MADVR shouldn't be doing anything to the colors. This was a very slight greenish cast to the picture almost unnoticeable but definitely there in many clips, but most apparent when I got to my Interstellar clip and Matthew M.’s tan skin had a hint of green undertone I’ve not seen before. I pulled up the tint slider on the 5040UB and had to move it from 50 default to closer to 45 to get his skin tone right. I’ve never had to move my tint slider before. Almost like the extra brightness hack the MadVR settings are doing is pulling just a hint of the nasty discoloration from the 5040UB’s dynamic color mode. It probably sounds worse than it is, but it is slightly present as I watched through those couple hours of clips I’m exceptionally familiar with from many demo sessions. Projector color mode was set to my favorite, natural and the only deviation I have from there, at my own preference IIRC, is color saturation at 52, and image enhancement at 3.
> 
> Overall, I can see a clear improvement in dark settings with 4K HDR source content, and a tick up improvement in sharpness and image quality across the board compared to what I've seen in the past. I have a Nvidia 2080 video card for reference. I re-watched these couple hours worth of my demo clips and am pleasantly surprised with the MadVR results across the board - sans this couple little minor niggles. It felt like a half step upgrade on the 5040UB projector I’ve used over the last year. A 1/2 step upgrade for free? Yes please!
> 
> What settings do you recommend I pay close attention to in the MadVR settings in order to get the best picture out of my 5040UB given your experiences? Is there a thread or post you know of already for further 5040UB optimization with MadVR?


I just tried those setting you posted but I also enabled BT.2020 in the Calibration tab so I get SDR BT2020. It looks ridiculosly good. So I only stripped HDR and set all else in MadVR to very high as well. Unreal looking picture. Give BT2020 a shot it will also upscale Rec709 to BT2020 if you leave it htat way. Ensure you are in Digital Cinema mode.


----------



## olegg

blastermaster said:


> I was watching GOTG2 in 4K. I have the Anthem 720. Oops! I wasn't using HDMI 1! Ok, so I switched to HDMI 1 and can now use the HDR setting button on my player. I switched it so that my audio out goes to my AVR and my player plugs directly into HDMI 1 of the Epson. It's a brand new fiber optic hdmi cable. When I press playback info on the player, here's what I get:
> 
> Video: 3840x2160/24p, hdr(pq)/BT.2020 YCbCr4:2:0/10bit
> HDMI Video: 4K/24P HDR(PQ)/BT.2020 YCbCr4:2:2/12bit
> 
> That's all great, but whereas I tweaked the image settings on HDMI2 and was able to get 4K enhancement, now 4K enhancement is greyed out. Grrrr! What am I doing wrong? Thanks any and all help.


Check your source if input is 4K than it goes to disabled.


----------



## john hunter

blastermaster said:


> I was watching GOTG2 in 4K. I have the Anthem 720. Oops! I wasn't using HDMI 1! Ok, so I switched to HDMI 1 and can now use the HDR setting button on my player. I switched it so that my audio out goes to my AVR and my player plugs directly into HDMI 1 of the Epson. It's a brand new fiber optic hdmi cable. When I press playback info on the player, here's what I get:
> 
> Video: 3840x2160/24p, hdr(pq)/BT.2020 YCbCr4:2:0/10bit
> HDMI Video: 4K/24P HDR(PQ)/BT.2020 YCbCr4:2:2/12bit
> 
> That's all great, but whereas I tweaked the image settings on HDMI2 and was able to get 4K enhancement, now 4K enhancement is greyed out. Grrrr! What am I doing wrong? Thanks any and all help.


Does video mean your settings on the UB 420?
Does that show High Dynamic Range ?
What settings do you use from Dynamic range on the Epson.?


----------



## blastermaster

olegg said:


> Check your source if input is 4K than it goes to disabled.



There's my answer! Ok, thanks. I'm getting a 4K signal from my Panny. On to the tweaking. Cheers!


----------



## Bandyka

I haven't looked into HDR tone mapping using MadVr for a while but now I have done the setup again and it works brilliantly with the latest version. 
If anyone wants to have the options to either watch the original HDR version or switch to SDR WCG by pressing a button on the keyboard I can share the setup.


----------



## Archaea

Bandyka said:


> I haven't looked into HDR tone mapping using MadVr for a while but now I have done the setup again and it works brilliantly with the latest version.
> If anyone wants to have the options to either watch the original HDR version or switch to SDR WCG by pressing a button on the keyboard I can share the setup.



I’m interested


----------



## TonytotheB

Bandyka said:


> I haven't looked into HDR tone mapping using MadVr for a while but now I have done the setup again and it works brilliantly with the latest version.
> If anyone wants to have the options to either watch the original HDR version or switch to SDR WCG by pressing a button on the keyboard I can share the setup.





Archaea said:


> I’m interested


Me too


----------



## Grayson73

Hi everyone! I just upgraded from a BenQ W1070 to the 5040UB and I know nothing about 4k!

1. What do I need to know about this projector? I will be feeding it 4K content from Xfinity and Amazon Prime Video

2. Are there optimal settings for this projector? For picture settings, should I use my Disney WOW Blu-Ray to calibrate and will it translate to what the Xfinity DVR sends out, or should I just use the projectorreviews settings in the screenshots here: https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...5040ub-pro-cinema-6040ub-calibration-settings

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Archaea

Try a different source than the Shield. A Bluray player, PC, or other streaming device to ensure if it is, or is not your new 5040UB projector.


----------



## Peter Bendevis

Hi Everyone. I just bought a 6040 as I have finally had time to get into HT with the extra time I find myself with during lockdowns. 

Quick question - every once in a while I get a black screen saying HDMI not supported when I go to play 4k HDR content on Netflix on my FireTV 4k. Sometimes I have to go back home and then open Netflix again and it will work. Is this just an issue due to the bandwidth of the HDMI port? Sometimes it works just great, other times it requires another attempt.


----------



## Azekecse

Peter Bendevis said:


> Hi Everyone. I just bought a 6040 as I have finally had time to get into HT with the extra time I find myself with during lockdowns.
> 
> Quick question - every once in a while I get a black screen saying HDMI not supported when I go to play 4k HDR content on Netflix on my FireTV 4k. Sometimes I have to go back home and then open Netflix again and it will work. Is this just an issue due to the bandwidth of the HDMI port? Sometimes it works just great, other times it requires another attempt.


Perhaps it may require a different* high speed premium* HDMI cable depending on distance. Hope this helps. 

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Peter Bendevis

Azekecse said:


> Perhaps it may require a different* high speed premium* HDMI cable depending on distance. Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Thanks. Will give it a try.


----------



## avtoronto

My projector will not turn on. No problems with it up until now and was fine yesterday. Is this the dread power supply problem? Mine is the Pro Cinema 4040 but little point posting in that forum as it is dormant.


----------



## reebok

Hello, new owner of the 5040UBe. I have messed around quite a bit, and I have the image looking spectacular imho, but my contrast is set to 0. This is based on the levels from this set: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...48496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

Again, it's an amazing picture, I'm not complaining, I'm just surprised contrast is 0. Brightness is 63. Has anyone else had a similar experience or am I doing something wrong? Thanks.


----------



## Grayson73

reebok said:


> Hello, new owner of the 5040UBe. I have messed around quite a bit, and I have the image looking spectacular imho, but my contrast is set to 0. This is based on the levels from this set: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...48496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html
> 
> Again, it's an amazing picture, I'm not complaining, I'm just surprised contrast is 0. Brightness is 63. Has anyone else had a similar experience or am I doing something wrong? Thanks.


The screen shots here show contrast between 57-62 depending on if you're on Natural, Bright Cinema, or Digital Cinema.

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...5040ub-pro-cinema-6040ub-calibration-settings


----------



## b_scott

anyone know how to check the temperature (heat) of the 5040? Just want to see how how it's running in my box.


----------



## ltalbrecht

Got a refurb and am about ready to mount to the ceiling. I have an old Chief Universal mount, about 15 years old. When I took it down, it is a jumble of screw and brackets. Spending all this money, might as well get a new ceiling mount. I did a search of the thread and saw Peerless as one recommendation.

Is there a consensus as to which ceiling mount is relatively simple and works well with this projector??? Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## reebok

ltalbrecht said:


> Is there a consensus as to which ceiling mount is relatively simple and works well with this projector??? Thanks in advance for any help.


I got this one for $6 on amazon. so far so good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MSYK43S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Archaea

ltalbrecht said:


> Got a refurb and am about ready to mount to the ceiling. I have an old Chief Universal mount, about 15 years old. When I took it down, it is a jumble of screw and brackets. Spending all this money, might as well get a new ceiling mount. I did a search of the thread and saw Peerless as one recommendation.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a consensus as to which ceiling mount is relatively simple and works well with this projector??? Thanks in advance for any help.




Chief still makes the best mounts. period.

Search this thread for Chief to find various model numbers you can use. There are multiple, because the 5010, 6010, 5020, 6020, 5030, 6030, 5040, 6040, 5050, and 6050 Chief mounts are all interchangeable (slight differences for some mounting plates, but as far as I understand all compatible), and there are also additional model numbers for the 60x0 series 'bundles'. Usually you can find a compatible chief mount on ebay used for $30-$75range - though they will be ~$200 new.


----------



## ltalbrecht

Went on Ebay. Lots of different used mounts. Found an Ebay seller called projector mounts direct. Looked pretty reasonable and easy to use. Anybody use them??


----------



## inspector

reebok said:


> I got this one for $6 on amazon. so far so good.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MSYK43S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


PM sent


----------



## inspector

Grayson73 said:


> Hi everyone! I just upgraded from a BenQ W1070 to the 5040UB and I know nothing about 4k!
> 
> 1. What do I need to know about this projector? I will be feeding it 4K content from Xfinity and Amazon Prime Video
> 
> 2. Are there optimal settings for this projector? For picture settings, should I use my Disney WOW Blu-Ray to calibrate and will it translate to what the Xfinity DVR sends out, or should I just use the projectorreviews settings in the screenshots here: https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...5040ub-pro-cinema-6040ub-calibration-settings
> 
> Thanks in advance!


PM sent


----------



## gene4ht

Archaea said:


> Chief still makes the best mounts. period.


+1 for a myriad of reasons...rigidity, construction quality, simplicity, absolute precise adjustment, ease of removal and reinstallation w/o loss of registration, etc, etc...*worth every penny*....and quoting Mississippi Man...”ain’t none mo betta.”

End of story!


----------



## blastermaster

Can't seem to have my cake and eat it, too! So I've been messing around with a number of different calibrations of my 6040 over the last few days (provided by the pdf of others' calibrations on this site). Regardless of what I choose, the colours pop way more than my old DLP projector. This is awesome. However, I'm now trying to find a balance with the contrast. It seems that if I get great blacks on a particular calibration, the level of detail in my blacks suffers. That is, a black suit will appear as one uniformly black suit with very little to no detail. On a different setting, the black level overall is elevated, so it's more greyish, but the level of shadow detail is vastly increased. Anyone care to divulge a setting for UHD discs that gets the best of both worlds - good blacks with good shadow detail?


----------



## marcosphoto

blastermaster said:


> Can't seem to have my cake and eat it, too! So I've been messing around with a number of different calibrations of my 6040 over the last few days (provided by the pdf of others' calibrations on this site). Regardless of what I choose, the colours pop way more than my old DLP projector. This is awesome. However, I'm now trying to find a balance with the contrast. It seems that if I get great blacks on a particular calibration, the level of detail in my blacks suffers. That is, a black suit will appear as one uniformly black suit with very little to no detail. On a different setting, the black level overall is elevated, so it's more greyish, but the level of shadow detail is vastly increased. Anyone care to divulge a setting for UHD discs that gets the best of both worlds - good blacks with good shadow detail?


I had the same problem when I dismounted my old Panasonic PTAX100 and installed the 5040. I doubt you're only seeing it in UHD disks, although it's probably more noticeable because if you are watching them in HDR the picture will already be much darker than SDR. I noticed a scene with a black leather couch with buttons pulling in on the leather. In my Panasonic, I could see the pull lines in the leather clearly and the sofa was black, but in the Epson I could barely see any of that detail - just solid black. I found the gamma of the 2 were very different, whereas the Panasonic was better in the dark areas and the Epson better in the bright. Not that one had a better dynamic range than the other - but rather they each were shifted in the opposite direction. All I did was a setup disk which really didn't help matters immensely, and I don't have $500 to toss around for a pro to come set it up. So I fiddled with the gamma setting, making a custom curve. I just moved the second slider from the left a bit to raise the brightness in those dark scenes ever so slightly - maybe a notch or two? (cannot remember). I found adjusting the first one on the far left just made the picture look more grey and didn't help bring details in the shadows anyways. Never did get the details in dark scenes to match that of my Panasonic, but overall the picture is definitely better so I have to be appreciative of that.


----------



## Archaea

blastermaster said:


> Can't seem to have my cake and eat it, too! So I've been messing around with a number of different calibrations of my 6040 over the last few days (provided by the pdf of others' calibrations on this site). Regardless of what I choose, the colours pop way more than my old DLP projector. This is awesome. However, I'm now trying to find a balance with the contrast. It seems that if I get great blacks on a particular calibration, the level of detail in my blacks suffers. That is, a black suit will appear as one uniformly black suit with very little to no detail.  On a different setting, the black level overall is elevated, so it's more greyish, but the level of shadow detail is vastly increased. Anyone care to divulge a setting for UHD discs that gets the best of both worlds - good blacks with good shadow detail?



Buy a Panasonic 420UB player for $200 and disable HDR entirely or use the Panasonic’s HDR brightness slider — whatever your individual preference. Or use MadVR.

Read back through the last few pages. Nearly the entire conversation has been about this same thing. This projector is simply too dim with HDR out of the box. You need to strip it or modify the HDR to have a proper picture. The Panasonic is the easy button to do either.


----------



## b_scott

I'm noticing that my 5040ub revs up the fan and blows so much I can hear it, only for a second, every time I switch to different apps or basically do anything that changes the screen on my Shield TV 2019. It's really weird. I kept hearing it and finally figured out it was the Epson. I also hear a click often, usually when stopping videos.

could this have something to do with the auto-iris?


----------



## blastermaster

Archaea said:


> Buy a Panasonic 420UB player for $200 and disable HDR entirely or use the Panasonic’s HDR brightness slider — whatever your individual preference. Or use MadVR.
> 
> Read back through the last few pages. Nearly the entire conversation has been about this same thing. This projector is simply too dim with HDR out of the box. You need to strip it or modify the HDR to have a proper picture. The Panasonic is the easy button to do either.


Yeah, I sold off my Oppo and got the Panny UB420. I used the "natural" custom setting and the custom settings for the Panny that is kicking around the forums. Don't get me wrong, it looks good and vastly better than my DLP. I'll personally take shadow detail over deep blacks, though. 

I'll go back and do some reading again, but you're saying set the Epson to SDR, then colour to...rec.709, then let the Panny do its magic? This 4k/HDR/WCG is great and all, but man it introduces a lot of crap in the mix to sort out. It was so much easier when it was just 1080P lol.


----------



## Grayson73

I just received a refurbished 5040UB from Epson and I'm getting "Not Supported" for both HDMI1 and HDMI2 when using my xfinity xg1v4 STB. Any ideas? Is the projector defective?

The same cable works with my PS3 in both ports. I have this cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U7SLJW/


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> I'm getting "Not Supported" for both HDMI1 and HDMI2 when using my xfinity xg1v4 STB. Any ideas?
> 
> The same cable works with my PS3 in both ports. I have this cable:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U7SLJW/


handshake issue?

https://forums.xfinity.com/t5/X1/XG1V4-box-HDMI-handshake-problem/td-p/3126518


----------



## Grayson73

b_scott said:


> handshake issue?
> 
> https://forums.xfinity.com/t5/X1/XG1V4-box-HDMI-handshake-problem/td-p/3126518


That sucks. I tried a different HDMI cable on both ports and tried different resolutions from the XG1V4 DVR and am getting "not supported". Does this mean I need to downgrade to a non-4k box from xfinity?


----------



## blucollar

Posted this over on the Oppo section also but figured I'd see what Epson owners think also.

Hey everyone, quick question...hopefully. I just picked up an Epson refurb 5040 to replace my 5030. I've been running that with the 103 and Darblet and the picture has been pretty darn good. I've been itching to get a 4K projector though and like the lens memory functions and at this price point I figure I'd try it. Is there any need to keep the 103 or Darblet? Will I regret selling? We live in a rural area with no good internet access at this time so don't do much streaming except the kids on their phones so mostly standard blu ray discs and have been slowly picking up 4K discs as they've been going on sale. Thanks!

I'm thinking it may be better to sell the 103 and Darblet and get a decent 4K player but wondered what everyone thought, is there any reason to keep the Oppo? I recently picked up an LG UBK90, is this a decent player?


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> That sucks. I tried a different HDMI cable on both ports and tried different resolutions from the XG1V4 DVR and am getting "not supported". Does this mean I need to downgrade to a non-4k box from xfinity?


I'm not sure, but there are boxes that can help with HDCP and straighten it out to pass along to the projector, like the HD Fury Linker.


----------



## Grayson73

b_scott said:


> I'm not sure, but there are boxes that can help with HDCP and straighten it out to pass along to the projector, like the HD Fury Linker.


Ouch, $179. Do you know of any cheaper options?


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> Ouch, $179. Do you know of any cheaper options?


There are better people than me here to answer on HDCP. Any info I'd give would just be guessing. Sorry.


----------



## Grayson73

Forgot to mention one thing. The welcome / bienvenidos screen does show through the projector when I first plug in the DVR, and then it goes to "not supported".

No amount of plugging, unplugging, turning on/off would work, but setting it to 1080P using a TV worked. After that, I was able to set it to 2160P. However, when I turned off the projector and turned it back on, it stopped working. Frustrating, to say the least.

If anyone knows how to fix this, let me know! Do I need to buy a device such as the HD Fury Linker?


----------



## Robert Clark

ltalbrecht said:


> Got a refurb and am about ready to mount to the ceiling. I have an old Chief Universal mount, about 15 years old. When I took it down, it is a jumble of screw and brackets. Spending all this money, might as well get a new ceiling mount. I did a search of the thread and saw Peerless as one recommendation.
> 
> Is there a consensus as to which ceiling mount is relatively simple and works well with this projector??? Thanks in advance for any help.



I replaced my cheapo mount with this one and I really love the gear adjustability of it.


https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1466975-REG/gabor_upmp_1000_professional_universal_projector_mount.html


----------



## Archaea

blucollar said:


> Posted this over on the Oppo section also but figured I'd see what Epson owners think also.
> 
> Hey everyone, quick question...hopefully. I just picked up an Epson refurb 5040 to replace my 5030. I've been running that with the 103 and Darblet and the picture has been pretty darn good. I've been itching to get a 4K projector though and like the lens memory functions and at this price point I figure I'd try it. Is there any need to keep the 103 or Darblet? Will I regret selling? We live in a rural area with no good internet access at this time so don't do much streaming except the kids on their phones so mostly standard blu ray discs and have been slowly picking up 4K discs as they've been going on sale. Thanks!
> 
> I'm thinking it may be better to sell the 103 and Darblet and get a decent 4K player but wondered what everyone thought, is there any reason to keep the Oppo? I recently picked up an LG UBK90, is this a decent player?


I liked my Darbee on the Panasonic AE8000U I had before, but I don't use it on the Epson 5040UB. It doesn't need it.


----------



## blucollar

Archaea said:


> I liked my Darbee on the Panasonic AE8000U I had before, but I don't use it on the Epson 5040UB. It doesn't need it.


Definitely improved the picture on my 5030! The more I read about 4K the more confused I get. So is the Panasonic UB420 the recommended 4K player for the Epson to help with the HDR issues? I downloaded your pdf file, thank you! Are there newer settings specific for using the UB420?


----------



## inspector

blucollar said:


> Definitely improved the picture on my 5030! The more I read about 4K the more confused I get. So is the Panasonic UB420 the recommended 4K player for the Epson to help with the HDR issues? I downloaded your pdf file, thank you! Are there newer settings specific for using the UB420?


PM sent


----------



## blucollar

inspector said:


> PM sent


Thank you!


----------



## mxthor3

Epson Canada finally had these back in stock, pulled the trigger lastnight. Down the rabbit hole I go


----------



## bluer101

blucollar said:


> Posted this over on the Oppo section also but figured I'd see what Epson owners think also.
> 
> Hey everyone, quick question...hopefully. I just picked up an Epson refurb 5040 to replace my 5030. I've been running that with the 103 and Darblet and the picture has been pretty darn good. I've been itching to get a 4K projector though and like the lens memory functions and at this price point I figure I'd try it. Is there any need to keep the 103 or Darblet? Will I regret selling? We live in a rural area with no good internet access at this time so don't do much streaming except the kids on their phones so mostly standard blu ray discs and have been slowly picking up 4K discs as they've been going on sale. Thanks!
> 
> I'm thinking it may be better to sell the 103 and Darblet and get a decent 4K player but wondered what everyone thought, is there any reason to keep the Oppo? I recently picked up an LG UBK90, is this a decent player?


I have a Oppo 103d and love it. I also have a Oppo 203 that I bought when they did the reserve email purchase. Now saying that I never use the 203. I bought it to pair with my Epson 5040 for 4K playback. But because the 5040 is not native 4K and it’s limitations I stopped trying to work with satisfaction. So I still watch all Blu-ray’s in my 103d with the darbee enabled. I also have the 4K in the Epson off and image enhancement to 4. This to me provides a very sharp picture to me without all the fiddling around. I find having the 4K shift on makes the image a little less sharp on my spandex screen. 

Seeing my theater is almost complete I will be going back to fiddling around with all formats on both players and give it more time. 

Below is with 4K shift on. 










Below is with if off, native 1080p Blu-ray with darbee.


----------



## blucollar

bluer101 said:


> I have a Oppo 103d and love it. I also have a Oppo 203 that I bought when they did the reserve email purchase. Now saying that I never use the 203. I bought it to pair with my Epson 5040 for 4K playback. But because the 5040 is not native 4K and it’s limitations I stopped trying to work with satisfaction. So I still watch all Blu-ray’s in my 103d with the darbee enabled. I also have the 4K in the Epson off and image enhancement to 4. This to me provides a very sharp picture to me without all the fiddling around. I find having the 4K shift on makes the image a little less sharp on my spandex screen.
> 
> Seeing my theater is almost complete I will be going back to fiddling around with all formats on both players and give it more time.
> 
> Below is with 4K shift on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is with if off, native 1080p Blu-ray with darbee.


That does look good! I guess I'll try the 103 on it and see how it looks!


----------



## shinksma

mxthor3 said:


> Epson Canada finally had these back in stock, pulled the trigger lastnight. Down the rabbit hole I go


Currently back in stock on the US site too.

I'd pick one up, but there is a house expense lingering around the corner that I think is about to slap me in the face (leaky pool).

Maybe by the time I'm ready to pull the trigger, the 5050UB will be the one on sale...


----------



## mxthor3

shinksma said:


> Currently back in stock on the US site too.
> 
> I'd pick one up, but there is a house expense lingering around the corner that I think is about to slap me in the face (leaky pool).
> 
> Maybe by the time I'm ready to pull the trigger, the 5050UB will be the one on sale...


I just moved into a new place, downstairs has this perfect little room screaming to be setup as a media room. Always wanted a projector, we'll see how this goes  Goodluck with the pool!


----------



## marcosphoto

bluer101 said:


> I have a Oppo 103d and love it. I also have a Oppo 203 that I bought when they did the reserve email purchase. Now saying that I never use the 203. I bought it to pair with my Epson 5040 for 4K playback. But because the 5040 is not native 4K and it’s limitations I stopped trying to work with satisfaction. So I still watch all Blu-ray’s in my 103d with the darbee enabled. I also have the 4K in the Epson off and image enhancement to 4. This to me provides a very sharp picture to me without all the fiddling around. I find having the 4K shift on makes the image a little less sharp on my spandex screen.
> 
> Seeing my theater is almost complete I will be going back to fiddling around with all formats on both players and give it more time.
> 
> Below is with 4K shift on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is with if off, native 1080p Blu-ray with darbee.


Wow! So you're outputting what resolution from your player, HD1080p?


----------



## Grayson73

Is anyone else using an xfinity X1 DVR? I'm having issues with the 5040UB saying the HDMI signal is "not supported". When I run it through my Panasonic SA-XR57 DVR, it works, but max output is 720p/1080i due to the HDMI 1.2a.

Do you think getting an HDMI 1.4a splitter such as this would fix the issue? Maybe HDMI 2.0 is the issue? Is it true that 1.4a cannot do HDR?
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Ultra-Powered-Splitter-Model/dp/B00J4D3RTU/


----------



## jbnpaul

bluer101 said:


> I have a Oppo 103d and love it. I also have a Oppo 203 that I bought when they did the reserve email purchase. Now saying that I never use the 203. I bought it to pair with my Epson 5040 for 4K playback. But because the 5040 is not native 4K and it’s limitations I stopped trying to work with satisfaction. So I still watch all Blu-ray’s in my 103d with the darbee enabled. I also have the 4K in the Epson off and image enhancement to 4. This to me provides a very sharp picture to me without all the fiddling around. I find having the 4K shift on makes the image a little less sharp on my spandex screen.
> 
> Seeing my theater is almost complete I will be going back to fiddling around with all formats on both players and give it more time.
> 
> Below is with 4K shift on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is with if off, native 1080p Blu-ray with darbee.



How do you play 4k? I assume you are feeding HDR since the 4k appears dark compared to the SDR.

Can you try turning on 4k enhancement with HD? I can clearly see this improves the image in my 5040.

If your 4k is in HDR you can also try tone mapping to SDR. This gives the Blu Ray like image ... but also adds bt2020 colors. I also see better images with my Apple TV set to 4k but with HDR disabled. This is what I am use for streaming. ATV upscales everything to 4k and in my experience this is better than letting the projector do the upscaling. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

marcosphoto said:


> Wow! So you're outputting what resolution from your player, HD1080p?


Yes, 1080p from my Oppo 103d with darbee at 35% and Epson image enhancement on 4, 4K off. I also set in the Oppo to output 60hz vs 24p. The Epson is also set to frame interpolation low. This to me gives a very smooth natural non jumpy image in both Blu-ray and 3D movies. Having the Oppo set at 60hz also does not cause the Epson to black out while switching formats. This is a smooth transition from Oppo main menu, to Blu-ray previews, Blu-ray menus, and the feature film.


----------



## bluer101

jbnpaul said:


> How do you play 4k? I assume you are feeding HDR since the 4k appears dark compared to the SDR.
> 
> Can you try turning on 4k enhancement with HD? I can clearly see this improves the image in my 5040.
> 
> If your 4k is in HDR you can also try tone mapping to SDR. This gives the Blu Ray like image ... but also adds bt2020 colors. I also see better images with my Apple TV set to 4k but with HDR disabled. This is what I am use for streaming. ATV upscales everything to 4k and in my experience this is better than letting the projector do the upscaling.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I’m not playing 4K at all. I was referring to 4K enhancement to off and on from a 1080P source. I gave up on 4K ultra discs and my Oppo 203 with the Epson for the time being. To me I get a better picture with my Oppo 103d outputting 1080p with darbee at 35% and the Epson 4K enhancement off and image preset mode to 4. 

As for the photos above the the first image was taken months before the second photo. The only thing that I changed is turning the 4K enhancement off that made it softer. The photo is dimmer but not in real life just showing the sharpness difference with 1080p with no 4K enhancement with darbee.


----------



## Grayson73

john hunter said:


> All these settings are years old.
> Various firmware upgrades and use of the Panasonic Optimiser have created more and better options.
> Why don't you try Adam's up to date ones in the Display Calibration webpage.


Are these the ones you're referring to? Are these the best settings to start with these days? https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html

So far, I've set up Art's - https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...5040ub-pro-cinema-6040ub-calibration-settings
And also the ones Inspector sent me in a PM.


----------



## blastermaster

shinksma said:


> Currently back in stock on the US site too.
> 
> I'd pick one up, but there is a house expense lingering around the corner that I think is about to slap me in the face (leaky pool).
> 
> Maybe by the time I'm ready to pull the trigger, the 5050UB will be the one on sale...


Omigosh. $1497CDN? That's a steal! I need to find more friends interested in HT and tell them about it lol.


----------



## blastermaster

Games look really, really good on the Epson!


----------



## marcosphoto

bluer101 said:


> Yes, 1080p from my Oppo 103d with darbee at 35% and Epson image enhancement on 4, 4K off. I also set in the Oppo to output 60hz vs 24p. The Epson is also set to frame interpolation low. This to me gives a very smooth natural non jumpy image in both Blu-ray and 3D movies. Having the Oppo set at 60hz also does not cause the Epson to black out while switching formats. This is a smooth transition from Oppo main menu, to Blu-ray previews, Blu-ray menus, and the feature film.


Well, not sure what darbee is but clearly my ub820 doesn't have it. Too bad, looks amazing.


----------



## bluer101

marcosphoto said:


> Well, not sure what darbee is but clearly my ub820 doesn't have it. Too bad, looks amazing.


http://www.darbeevision.com/

They do standalone processor but also partnered with other manufacturers like Oppo and did 2 special edition Blu-ray players with it built in.


----------



## b_scott

blastermaster said:


> Games look really, really good on the Epson!


whoa. is that a curved screen or just the camera lens bending the light?


----------



## Grayson73

Question about this table. The 5040UB only accepts the green since it has a 10Gb limitation, correct? Am I correct that both "yellow" and "NS" are not supported?
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/HDMI_data_rates.png


----------



## blastermaster

b_scott said:


> whoa. is that a curved screen or just the camera lens bending the light?


I have a 138" curved scope screen.


----------



## b_scott

blastermaster said:


> I have a 138" curved scope screen.


Awesome. I considered scope, but since my limit is my height, and projector can't be more than 13' back, I went with 16x9 so I can take advantage of the entire area available. Yours looks great.


----------



## john hunter

Grayson73 said:


> Are these the ones you're referring to? Are these the best settings to start with these days? https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html
> 
> So far, I've set up Art's - https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...5040ub-pro-cinema-6040ub-calibration-settings
> And also the ones Inspector sent me in a PM.


Yes-they are Adam's settings and a good place to start especially for SDR.
Also Proj reviews but they date from an early review sample.

For HDR I prefer Dig Cinema with the Optimiser set to +3.
I have tweaked black level and col/tint using the Spears and Munsil disc. 
Although still playing, happy with the results so far.
Ad Astra looks fantastic.
Suggest you play with the settings. There are plenty of memories.


----------



## jbnpaul

Grayson73 said:


> Question about this table. The 5040UB only accepts the green since it has a 10Gb limitation, correct? Am I correct that both "yellow" and "NS" are not supported?
> http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/HDMI_data_rates.png



Yes. 5040 and 6040 doesn't support anything that requires more than 10 gbps. 

This is a hardware limitation. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Archaea

bluer101 said:


> I have a Oppo 103d and love it. I also have a Oppo 203 that I bought when they did the reserve email purchase. Now saying that I never use the 203. I bought it to pair with my Epson 5040 for 4K playback. But because the 5040 is not native 4K and it’s limitations I stopped trying to work with satisfaction. So I still watch all Blu-ray’s in my 103d with the darbee enabled. I also have the 4K in the Epson off and image enhancement to 4. This to me provides a very sharp picture to me without all the fiddling around. I find having the 4K shift on makes the image a little less sharp on my spandex screen.
> 
> Seeing my theater is almost complete I will be going back to fiddling around with all formats on both players and give it more time.
> 
> Below is with 4K shift on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is with if off, native 1080p Blu-ray with darbee.



As an owner of a Darbee unit, I think something is afoul in this comparison. I'll pull mine back out of the box for a comparison again. I just put mine away when I bought the 5040UB, because it doesn't pass 4K, and my picture looked better on the 5040UB going from the Panasonic AE8000U w/ Darbee, to the 5040UB without. I don't think I even tried it on the 5040UB. I too liked mine at 35% on the HD setting when I used it with the Panasonic AE8000U.


----------



## blastermaster

b_scott said:


> Awesome. I considered scope, but since my limit is my height, and projector can't be more than 13' back, I went with 16x9 so I can take advantage of the entire area available. Yours looks great.


If you're height-limited, as I am, wouldn't a scope screen be the ideal? Maybe you meant width-limited? I only have a 7.5' ceiling, so going as tall as I can, then having that extra width for a scope screen was perfect.


----------



## b_scott

blastermaster said:


> If you're height-limited, as I am, wouldn't a scope screen be the ideal? Maybe you meant width-limited? I only have a 7.5' ceiling, so going as tall as I can, then having that extra width for a scope screen was perfect.


it would be, if I could zoom in further to scope, but I can't. I'm actually more depth limited I guess. My biggest zoom in on my 5040 doesn't fill the height of the wall. If I did scope my 16x9 movies/tv would all be much much smaller since 5040 of course isn't anamorphic (nor do I have an anamorphic lens). 

It would be great if the way that projectors worked was they have a constant height and then just added more onto the sides for 2.35. But since it zooms instead and it can't get 6'6" tall at 13 feet back, it won't work for me. Maybe someday there will be an LCD projector that can and I'll upgrade to that. As it is, scope would make my 16x9 way too small and my 2.35 still wouldn't be tall enough. Might as well enjoy 16x9 IMAX style.

I have a 6'10" ceiling. You must have your projector way further back.


----------



## Ryfrench

Anyone know if there's an upgrade to firmware 1.14 for the Epson 4000? Couldn't find anything about it and these forums are a little difficult to navigate when looking for info on the 4000, and not a 5040.


----------



## bluer101

Archaea said:


> As an owner of a Darbee unit, I think something is afoul in this comparison. I'll pull mine back out of the box for a comparison again. I just put mine away when I bought the 5040UB, because it doesn't pass 4K, and my picture looked better on the 5040UB going from the Panasonic AE8000U w/ Darbee, to the 5040UB without. I don't think I even tried it on the 5040UB. I too liked mine at 35% on the HD setting when I used it with the Panasonic AE8000U.


My original response was to someone asking about upgrading their PJ and if it was worth it to get rid of their 103 and darbee. Just showing what it did for me in my room. It’s worth a shot before selling it. 

When I get my screen all finished (currently finishing my electric masking) I will do another comparison. 

To me after going back and forth with a 1080p source I find leaving the 4K pixel shift to off on the Epson but using image enhancement preset 4 with darbee on. My comparison above is not just with darbee, it’s multiple items. This is also with a spandex screen in the mix. When I first got my Epson I used the 4K pixel shift with darbee on a electric elite screens and it looked great. But since switching to spandex it gives the picture a softer look. But with everyone’s setup being different YMMV. 

Someone else talks about the softness and my response over a year ago. 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...0-epson-5050-6050-rumors-13.html#post57692220


----------



## blastermaster

b_scott said:


> it would be, if I could zoom in further to scope, but I can't. I'm actually more depth limited I guess. My biggest zoom in on my 5040 doesn't fill the height of the wall. If I did scope my 16x9 movies/tv would all be much much smaller since 5040 of course isn't anamorphic (nor do I have an anamorphic lens).
> 
> It would be great if the way that projectors worked was they have a constant height and then just added more onto the sides for 2.35. But since it zooms instead and it can't get 6'6" tall at 13 feet back, it won't work for me. Maybe someday there will be an LCD projector that can and I'll upgrade to that. As it is, scope would make my 16x9 way too small and my 2.35 still wouldn't be tall enough. Might as well enjoy 16x9 IMAX style.
> 
> I have a 6'10" ceiling. You must have your projector way further back.


Ah, I see. Bummer. I've got my projector just over 14 feet away, but I'm using an anamorphic lens (and I have the 6040 obviously). If I was going to be in that house long term, I'd definitely look into getting a projector with anamorphic stretch and an anamorphic lens. I built a 138" scope screen for around $350 Canadian which is basically free if you're in the US lol. Lots of good deals on lenses these days because people think they aren't compatible with 4K, which isn't true. It "may" soften the image slightly on 4K content (depending on the lens), but the brightness you get to keep because you're not zooming so much makes it worth it for HDR content. My 0.02.


----------



## avtoronto

Ryfrench said:


> Anyone know if there's an upgrade to firmware 1.14 for the Epson 4000? Couldn't find anything about it and these forums are a little difficult to navigate when looking for info on the 4000, and not a 5040.


Still 1.14 on the Epson firmware page.


----------



## b_scott

blastermaster said:


> Ah, I see. Bummer. I've got my projector just over 14 feet away, but I'm using an anamorphic lens (and I have the 6040 obviously). If I was going to be in that house long term, I'd definitely look into getting a projector with anamorphic stretch and an anamorphic lens. I built a 138" scope screen for around $350 Canadian which is basically free if you're in the US lol. Lots of good deals on lenses these days because people think they aren't compatible with 4K, which isn't true. It "may" soften the image slightly on 4K content (depending on the lens), but the brightness you get to keep because you're not zooming so much makes it worth it for HDR content. My 0.02.


while true for you, I'm still limited by throw distance. I can't get any wider, it's wide as the projector will throw. So even if it was anamorphic, it would be the same size width and height. I split my basement in half and the area behind me is utility, so I can't go back any further. It works out, we just sit about 10' back from 135"(ish). Still need to build the screen.


----------



## marcosphoto

Anyone else getting thin lines around top and sometimes sides of screen from the PJ? About 1/2" in from the top/sides (125" screen) I get a thin line. It's extremely obscure, more like a slight colour hue off rather than solid coloured line. Majority of the time you don't even notice unless you look closely but sometimes it's quite obvious depending on the image. It's a perfectly straight line with defined sharp edges, almost looks like the chip is producing it - can't imagine anything else. Bothering me a lot knowing it's there, makes me think it's a defective unit. Been like that straight from the box, previously I thought it was intermittent but now I realized it's just hard to see most of the time.


----------



## antec121

I have only a few hours on my projector and I was wondering if I have to use the projector in a certain setting for the first 200 hours?


----------



## noob00224

antec121 said:


> I have only a few hours on my projector and I was wondering if I have to use the projector in a certain setting for the first 200 hours?


It's recommended to use the lamp in High for the first 100h to reduce likelihood of flickering.


----------



## DerKonig

blastermaster said:


> Games look really, really good on the Epson!


What setting are you using?


----------



## Azekecse

mxthor3 said:


> Epson Canada finally had these back in stock, pulled the trigger lastnight. Down the rabbit hole I go


Be careful down there, don't drink and buy. Enjoy.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## blastermaster

DerKonig said:


> What setting are you using?



I'm using the "HDR 500 nits" setting on the first post of this thread:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/3075472-projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html

I'm still playing around with it and have a few other settings I'd like to try and put to the memory button to A/B them.


----------



## edfowler

bluer101 said:


> Yes, 1080p from my Oppo 103d with darbee at 35% and Epson image enhancement on 4, 4K off. I also set in the Oppo to output 60hz vs 24p. The Epson is also set to frame interpolation low. This to me gives a very smooth natural non jumpy image in both Blu-ray and 3D movies. Having the Oppo set at 60hz also does not cause the Epson to black out while switching formats. This is a smooth transition from Oppo main menu, to Blu-ray previews, Blu-ray menus, and the feature film.


Gotta try 60hz then...thanks for the tip!


----------



## Grayson73

Thanks everyone for your help! I can finally get 4k through my xfinity XG1v4 box, but I had to use HDMI 2 instead of HDMI 1 due to handshaking. I also had to buy a device to set the EDID. Which of these two is the better option?

3840x2160, 29.97 Hz, 8 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020 SDR
3840x2160, 59.94 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0 BT.709 SDR


https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200618_170912.jpg.html

https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200618_170654.jpg.html

Also, why are neither of these HDR when I was playing 4k through Amazon Prime? The video said "Ultra HD" at the bottom. Is it because I had to use HDMI 2 instead of HDMI 1?

This is what I bought to set the EDID to fix handshaking:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0814L36PV/


----------



## Grayson73

Grayson73 said:


> Thanks everyone for your help! I can finally get 4k through my xfinity XG1v4 box, but I had to use HDMI 2 instead of HDMI 1 due to handshaking. I also had to buy a device to set the EDID. Which of these two is the better option?
> 
> 3840x2160, 29.97 Hz, 8 bit 4:4:4 BT.2020 SDR
> 3840x2160, 59.94 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0 BT.709 SDR
> 
> 
> https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200618_170912.jpg.html
> 
> https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200618_170654.jpg.html
> 
> Also, why are neither of these HDR when I was playing 4k through Amazon Prime? The video said "Ultra HD" at the bottom. Is it because I had to use HDMI 2 instead of HDMI 1?
> 
> This is what I bought to set the EDID to fix handshaking:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0814L36PV/


I answered my own question.  I was able to get both HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 to show 3840x2160, 59.94 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.2020 HDR.  I thought HDMI 2 was only version 1.4 and incapable of HDR, but why does the info show that it's HDR?

https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200618_212924.jpg.html


----------



## oldking

*webremote*

UPDATE 1: 

I used Wireshark to look at what the android iProjection app was doing.

The projector does have a web based remote control.

The URL is
*http :// your projector IP /mobile/index.html?EPSON=Projector*
Username: EPSONMOBILE
leave password empty

Or, curl


Code:


curl -u "EPSONMOBILE:" http :// your projector IP /mobile/index.html?EPSON=Projector

It's literally what the android iProjection app shows when you click [Remote].

I seems to be another (possibly different?) interface at /webremote/index.html but I have not discovered a working username / password for that endpoint.

I have too few posts to post screenshots.


----------



## b_scott

the "wireless" part of the Wireless UBe is HDMI, not internet. It's so you can shoot HDMI signal across the room to your projector from your players. As far as I'm aware the projector does not connect to the internet.


----------



## Peter Bendevis

bluer101 said:


> I have a Oppo 103d and love it. I also have a Oppo 203 that I bought when they did the reserve email purchase. Now saying that I never use the 203. I bought it to pair with my Epson 5040 for 4K playback. But because the 5040 is not native 4K and it’s limitations I stopped trying to work with satisfaction. So I still watch all Blu-ray’s in my 103d with the darbee enabled. I also have the 4K in the Epson off and image enhancement to 4. This to me provides a very sharp picture to me without all the fiddling around. I find having the 4K shift on makes the image a little less sharp on my spandex screen.
> 
> Seeing my theater is almost complete I will be going back to fiddling around with all formats on both players and give it more time.
> 
> Below is with 4K shift on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is with if off, native 1080p Blu-ray with darbee.


I need to give this a try. This looks significantly improved.


----------



## sleepingatsea

blastermaster said:


> Games look really, really good on the Epson!


They sure do! I used to be using 4k mode on my PS4 Pro (HDR off) but have lately gone to 1080p with HDR and wow, it's looking incredible. Doom Eternal with HDR is EPIC. Fired up The Last of Us 2 last night and it looks incredible. Makes gaming so much better. Wish I had bigger than 100" now!

Hmm..with the darbee & 1080p being brought up again, maybe I'll try put mine into this chain for the PS4. Then I can do 1080p/HDR with darbee closing the sharpness gap on 4k. Will see how that goes!


----------



## marcosphoto

bluer101 said:


> http://www.darbeevision.com/
> 
> They do standalone processor but also partnered with other manufacturers like Oppo and did 2 special edition Blu-ray players with it built in.


Well heck, I'd love to join the darbeevision train - but after going the website I see that the only 1 model they sell is only HDCP1.4 and I had to buy a new AVR because it was only HDCP2.0 :-(


----------



## Morphx2

After working on HDR for few months I gave up and doing 1080p rec 709 now. Was never quite happy with the settings i had for 1080 either. Just tried default natural settings last night for 1080 and it looked great! I set my shield to rgb rec 709 too

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

Morphx2 said:


> After working on HDR for few months I gave up and doing 1080p rec 709 now. Was never quite happy with the settings i had for 1080 either. Just tried default natural settings last night for 1080 and it looked great! I set my shield to rgb rec 709 too
> 
> Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


I have some fantastic settings for Digital Cinema mode that using the Panny UB820 doing HDR-SDR conversion. With they dynamic slider pushed up you get the brightness you need and the color filter looks phenominal.
I have the Shield too and unfortunately not finding I can replicate without the Panny doing it's thing. Keeping with Harpervision at the moment and looks great. To my eyes much better than Rec 709 1080p.


----------



## b_scott

Brettmckinney said:


> I have some fantastic settings for Digital Cinema mode that using the Panny UB820 doing HDR-SDR conversion. With they dynamic slider pushed up you get the brightness you need and the color filter looks phenominal.
> I have the Shield too and unfortunately not finding I can replicate without the Panny doing it's thing. Keeping with Harpervision at the moment and looks great. To my eyes much better than Rec 709 1080p.


What exactly is Harpervision?


----------



## Morphx2

Brettmckinney said:


> I have some fantastic settings for Digital Cinema mode that using the Panny UB820 doing HDR-SDR conversion. With they dynamic slider pushed up you get the brightness you need and the color filter looks phenominal.
> 
> I have the Shield too and unfortunately not finding I can replicate without the Panny doing it's thing. Keeping with Harpervision at the moment and looks great. To my eyes much better than Rec 709 1080p.


I stream everything so no Panasonic for me. 

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

b_scott said:


> What exactly is Harpervision?


It's basically settings that were done which is sending the Epson a full HDR signal and then setting the dynamic range to SDR. 
I use the Harper vision settings with a few tweaks that were done by Sbuger and they are fantastic. Really vibrant and colourful. 
This works great on 4k discs or streaming.



Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

Brettmckinney said:


> b_scott said:
> 
> 
> 
> What exactly is Harpervision?
> 
> 
> 
> It's basically settings that were done which is sending the Epson a full HDR signal and then setting the dynamic range to SDR.
> I use the Harper vision settings with a few tweaks that were done by Sbuger and they are fantastic. Really vibrant and colourful.
> This works great on 4k discs or streaming.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Nice, thanks. I wonder if anyone has a link to those.


----------



## olegg

b_scott said:


> Nice, thanks. I wonder if anyone has a link to those.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-593.html#post58376282
I just tried them, I think they work. Using them with my shield tv pro. Please, give us your impressions after you tried it.


----------



## b_scott

olegg said:


> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread-593.html#post58376282
> I just tried them, I think they work. Using them with my shield tv pro. Please, give us your impressions after you tried it.


Thanks for the response - it doesn't take me to the page, I think maybe it's because we have different posts per page settings.


----------



## olegg

The link supposed to take you to the exact post by SBuger, tried in Safari and Chrome. I am on a standard no alter to forum settings. post #17769


----------



## b_scott

olegg said:


> The link supposed to take you to the exact post by SBuger, tried in Safari and Chrome. I am on a standard no alter to forum settings. post #17769


Thanks, I found it on page 445:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-445.html#post58376282


----------



## ace11

*Bt2020 hdr*

I am unable to get BT2020 HDR even after connecting HDfury Linker between XBOX>Receiver>HD Fury linker to 5040UB. The projector info still says BT709 . 

Could someone suggest how I can get BT2020, is there a projector, xbox or HDfury linker settings I need to optimize?


----------



## Grayson73

ace11 said:


> I am unable to get BT2020 HDR even after connecting HDfury Linker between XBOX>Receiver>HD Fury linker to 5040UB. The projector info still says BT709 .
> 
> Could someone suggest how I can get BT2020, is there a projector, xbox or HDfury linker settings I need to optimize?


For me, I've noticed that sometimes I get BT709 and sometimes BT2020. It seems to me that it's the content that determines which one it is. Is that other people's experience as well?

Also, this might be helpful to you guys. This EZCOO switch allows you to set EDID. I set it to [email protected] 4:2:0 and it fixed my handshaking issues with the Xfinity X1 XG1V4 DVR. I'm getting HDR and it works with my fiber optic HDMI as well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TD81BDH/


----------



## VinnieB

*UPDATE:*

So I actually do find that using the linker to get HDR with the Xbox One X to be better than without the linker. After playing around with some settings, which is kind of a PINA. I don't play many games on Xbox, mainly PUBG and when I do it's mainly on my monitor. 

For PUBG, at the title screen I couldn't see the clouds in the background with the settings I did with the calibration disc. Once I changed it to Auto (HDR 2) and Epson super white on, I could make out all the detail. 

Shadow of the Tomb Raider, this game is fine with the settings I did with the calibration disc. Auto bright (HDR 1) and Epson super white off.

Forza 7, same settings as Tomb Raider. 

Insects, this works with the same settings but I see more detail with Epson super white on. 

I tried each game and Insects with and without the linker and I prefer the linker as when setting up the projector right, I can see more details.


----------



## blastermaster

Brettmckinney said:


> I have some fantastic settings for Digital Cinema mode that using the Panny UB820 doing HDR-SDR conversion. With they dynamic slider pushed up you get the brightness you need and the color filter looks phenominal.
> I have the Shield too and unfortunately not finding I can replicate without the Panny doing it's thing. Keeping with Harpervision at the moment and looks great. To my eyes much better than Rec 709 1080p.


I'll have to see if the UB420 has the slider, but I used the Harpervision settings and set my Panny to HDR, Epson to SDR and man to my eyes it is far better than any other settings I've tried from this thread thus far. I've A/B'ed all of them and this has the best blend of really good blacks while maintaining decent shadow detail (there's still room for improvement, but I think that's looking like a JVC) and amazing colour. I threw in Aquaman and was blown away. I'm still tinkering and I doubt it will work, but I'm going to try and hook up my Darbee and see what happens.


----------



## sleepingatsea

blastermaster said:


> I'll have to see if the UB420 has the slider, but I used the Harpervision settings and set my Panny to HDR, Epson to SDR and man to my eyes it is far better than any other settings I've tried from this thread thus far. I've A/B'ed all of them and this has the best blend of really good blacks while maintaining decent shadow detail (there's still room for improvement, but I think that's looking like a JVC) and amazing colour. I threw in Aquaman and was blown away. I'm still tinkering and I doubt it will work, but I'm going to try and hook up my Darbee and see what happens.


It looks damn good hey! If you wanna try the Digital Cinema settings, on the UB420, you will need to set HDR/SDR conversion on, then when you load a disc press the Option button instead of HDR and then you can used the Dynamic Range setting. I found going up to 6 or 8 gave it a lift it needs to get similar brightness.

It isn't 'quite' as vibrant and punchy vs the HV settings but with the filter engaged, the BT2020 colours looks better and more filmic. 



Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## blastermaster

Brettmckinney said:


> It looks damn good hey! If you wanna try the Digital Cinema settings, on the UB420, you will need to set HDR/SDR conversion on, then when you load a disc press the Option button instead of HDR and then you can used the Dynamic Range setting. I found going up to 6 or 8 gave it a lift it needs to get similar brightness.
> 
> It isn't 'quite' as vibrant and punchy vs the HV settings but with the filter engaged, the BT2020 colours looks better and more filmic.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Thanks, I'll give that a try. Are you talking about the default Digital Cinema settings or someone else's custom settings? And you set the Epson to rec.709 again?


----------



## sleepingatsea

blastermaster said:


> Thanks, I'll give that a try. Are you talking about the default Digital Cinema settings or someone else's custom settings? And you set the Epson to rec.709 again?


You can definitely start with the default and tweak from there but I think I did have a custom gamma curve for this. I may have posted my settings before for it so I'll check and send them to you!

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

question - my ceiling is about 7' and at 13.1' back my 5040ube can only zoom in to be about 6'6 tall on my wall, at 16x9. Is there any possible way to get that 6'6" tall size but stretch out wider to CIH scope? talking about maybe anamorphic lens or something. Also I know 5040ube doesn't do anamorphic but if I ever upgraded to 6040 or something.

Or am I not understanding how anamorphic works with projectors?

TLDR - I'm zoom limited at 13'1".


----------



## kommakazi

So which streaming media player displays 10 and 12bit for 5040 currently? Thanks


----------



## Grayson73

kommakazi said:


> So which streaming media player displays 10 and 12bit for 5040 currently? Thanks


According to this, the 5040UB doesn't support 10-bit.

It supports:
4K30 8-bit 4:4:4
4k30 12-bit 4:2:2
4k60 8-bit 4:2:0

http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/HDMI_data_rates.png


----------



## ltalbrecht

FINALLY got my refurb 5040 up. Thing is a monster!

Need help with settings. I have searched the forum, and it is difficult to narrow things down. If someone could PLEASE just give me the cliff notes on what would make me happy (just looking for a good image, not perfection, and easy for a newbie), I would GREATLY appreciate it.

Room is in basement, very well controlled light. 115" AT screen, gain of .9, 2.35:1. Probably 75% streaming TV shows on Netflix, Hulu, etc., 17% streaming movies, and 8% sports. Using a Panasonic UB420 to feed a Pioneer LSX-V303 receiver in 5.1.4. I am willing to tweak a little here or there, but unless there is a relatively inexpensive/simple way to get a good calibration, not willing to do more than that.

Do I just go through the presets and pick the one that looks best to my eyes?? Did simple Avia calibration for my previous PJ's but get the feeling that won't cut it here.

I know I may seem like a newb looking to freeload on what others do, but I am really just a casual fan who wants a good, generalized setting that will please me and my wife, whether it is a straight up preset or a customized setting. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Grayson73

ltalbrecht said:


> FINALLY got my refurb 5040 up. Thing is a monster!
> 
> Need help with settings. I have searched the forum, and it is difficult to narrow things down. If someone could PLEASE just give me the cliff notes on what would make me happy (just looking for a good image, not perfection, and easy for a newbie), I would GREATLY appreciate it.
> 
> Room is in basement, very well controlled light. 115" AT screen, gain of .9, 2.35:1. Probably 75% streaming TV shows on Netflix, Hulu, etc., 17% streaming movies, and 8% sports. Using a Panasonic UB420 to feed a Pioneer LSX-V303 receiver in 5.1.4. I am willing to tweak a little here or there, but unless there is a relatively inexpensive/simple way to get a good calibration, not willing to do more than that.
> 
> Do I just go through the presets and pick the one that looks best to my eyes?? Did simple Avia calibration for my previous PJ's but get the feeling that won't cut it here.
> 
> I know I may seem like a newb looking to freeload on what others do, but I am really just a casual fan who wants a good, generalized setting that will please me and my wife, whether it is a straight up preset or a customized setting. Thanks in advance.


I just got mine last week and was told to start with these settings:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html


----------



## TrekFX

I'm really loving my refurb 5040, which I've had since October 2019.

After running in ECO power/Natural mode/20 iris 709/sdr which yielded a very cinematic 17 nits, lamp flicker appeared in March. I decided to join the New World and explore Digital Cinema/medium power/0 iris yielding 20 nits. 709/sdr looks very nice with only a basic grayscale cal run. I haven't done RGBCMY yet. Colors are definitely rich and vivid! 

For 2020/sdr it's fed from a Panasonic 820 using the optimizer feature. I am curious about RGBCMY xyY targets. When setting RGBCMY Y (brightness) do we use the 709/sdr ratios ( simply x% of 100% white) or is there a different mathematical formula and/or multiplier with 2020 in sdr?


----------



## TrekFX

TrekFX said:


> I'm really loving my refurb 5040, which I've had since October 2019.
> 
> After running in ECO power/Natural mode/20 iris 709/sdr which yielded a very cinematic 17 nits, lamp flicker appeared in March. I decided to join the New World and explore Digital Cinema/medium power/0 iris yielding 20 nits. 709/sdr looks very nice with only a basic grayscale cal run. I haven't done RGBCMY yet. Colors are definitely rich and vivid!
> 
> For 2020/sdr it's fed from a Panasonic 820 using the optimizer feature. I am curious about RGBCMY xyY targets. When setting RGBCMY Y (brightness) do we use the 709/sdr ratios ( simply x% of 100% white) or is there a different mathematical formula and/or multiplier with 2020 in sdr?


Oops, nits should be foot-lamberts!!! My bad.


----------



## noob00224

TrekFX said:


> I'm really loving my refurb 5040, which I've had since October 2019.
> 
> After running in ECO power/Natural mode/20 iris 709/sdr which yielded a very cinematic 17 nits, lamp flicker appeared in March. I decided to join the New World and explore Digital Cinema/medium power/0 iris yielding 20 nits. 709/sdr looks very nice with only a basic grayscale cal run. I haven't done RGBCMY yet. Colors are definitely rich and vivid!
> 
> For 2020/sdr it's fed from a Panasonic 820 using the optimizer feature. I am curious about RGBCMY xyY targets. When setting RGBCMY Y (brightness) do we use the 709/sdr ratios ( simply x% of 100% white) or is there a different mathematical formula and/or multiplier with 2020 in sdr?


Use the lamp in High mode for a while in it's highest setting. And every now and then:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ng-projector-bulb-flicker-3.html#post57363110


----------



## blastermaster

noob00224 said:


> Use the lamp in High mode for a while in it's highest setting. And every now and then:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ng-projector-bulb-flicker-3.html#post57363110


I have found the ideal settings for both 4K movies and HD movies and NONE of them have the lamp at the highest setting. I tried it at a high setting as I'd read that you need to do that for the first 100 hours to prevent lamp flicker but honestly it's way too loud to even enjoy a movie. If you get unlucky enough to get lamp flicker, is it such that you'd need to replace the bulb or would the flicker go away with a bit of time spent at the high output setting? Every time I fire up a movie I'm just blown away by the image this thing projects - I'm so thoroughly impressed by it!


----------



## noob00224

blastermaster said:


> I have found the ideal settings for both 4K movies and HD movies and NONE of them have the lamp at the highest setting. I tried it at a high setting as I'd read that you need to do that for the first 100 hours to prevent lamp flicker but honestly it's way too loud to even enjoy a movie. If you get unlucky enough to get lamp flicker, is it such that you'd need to replace the bulb or would the flicker go away with a bit of time spent at the high output setting? Every time I fire up a movie I'm just blown away by the image this thing projects - I'm so thoroughly impressed by it!


If the lamp does not run at full power it will degrade as described in the linked post. Now if it's fixable it depends on a few things, how long has the lamp been used, quality of the lamp. The lamp might not flicker at all.


----------



## TrekFX

noob00224 said:


> If the lamp does not run at full power it will degrade as described in the linked post. Now if it's fixable it depends on a few things, how long has the lamp been used, quality of the lamp. The lamp might not flicker at all.


I find medium to be a happy medium (?! just made a pun!) I've had no flicker issue since the change, brightness is perfectly adequate with longer expected lamp life and lower fan noise. My room is light-controlled with lots of black drapes and black velvet. Considering how much effort I put into ECO/Natural/iris 20 and how little (so far) into MED/Dig Cin/iris 0 I'm pleased. Further, for some reason using full iris introduced severe uniformity issues, especially the corners taking on obvious red and blue shades. I spent a lot of time in the screen uniformity menu tweaking every zone/color/level to get it reasonably consistent. On the other hand, with the iris now at 0 I've had to zero-default all uniformity controls, and the screen is now remarkably uniform. I suspect the iris at max was introducing some diffraction/reflection artifacts or other optical issue.

As far as the CMS RGBCMY, anybody have numbers for setting BT 2020 xyY "Y" (brightness) values for SDR? Is it still the same x% of 100% white as 709 SDR?


----------



## TrekFX

*What's inside a 5040? This.*

For any fellow tech-heads, check this out:

https://compassmicro.com/media/wysiwyg/diagrams/PowerLite-Home-Cinema-5040UB-exploded-diag.pdf

I won't be field-stripping *this* beast for cleaning!


----------



## marcosphoto

TrekFX said:


> For any fellow tech-heads, check this out:
> 
> https://compassmicro.com/media/wysiwyg/diagrams/PowerLite-Home-Cinema-5040UB-exploded-diag.pdf
> 
> I won't be field-stripping *this* beast for cleaning!


Hey, a great find! Thanks for sharing this very secretive stuff. May come in handy - hopefully later rather than sooner. ;-)


----------



## TrekFX

Well, I spent a while trying to dial 709 into Digital Cinema and couldn't make it work. Sort of makes sense because those filters are trying to send color into infinity! No way to pull 709 saturations back to targets at 75 or 100% saturation. No biggie, went back to Natural/medium for a bottom-up redo and it came out great. Even at 20 iris was hitting about 60 nits so engaged Super White to pull it down to about 50. Normally I don't use "features" but in this case I'll call it a "tool." This time no issue with using iris at an aggressive level regarding uniformity, so I don't know where I went wrong before. Used uniformity as a "graphic EQ" to smooth the greyscale dE. 

Those neon colors beckoned, but upon measurement saturation was way out of the park. 709 lives in Natural.


----------



## olegg

blastermaster said:


> I have found the ideal settings for both 4K movies and HD movies and NONE of them have the lamp at the highest setting. ...it!


Are they shareable? I would be excited to try them for comparison with what I have so far. How many sets are using on a daily basis, like HDR, SDR ...


----------



## Bandyka

TrekFX said:


> Well, I spent a while trying to dial 709 into Digital Cinema and couldn't make it work. Sort of makes sense because those filters are trying to send color into infinity! No way to pull 709 saturations back to targets at 75 or 100% saturation. No biggie, went back to Natural/medium for a bottom-up redo and it came out great. Even at 20 iris was hitting about 60 nits so engaged Super White to pull it down to about 50. Normally I don't use "features" but in this case I'll call it a "tool." This time no issue with using iris at an aggressive level regarding uniformity, so I don't know where I went wrong before. Used uniformity as a "graphic EQ" to smooth the greyscale dE.
> 
> Those neon colors beckoned, but upon measurement saturation was way out of the park. 709 lives in Natural.


709 has to be in natural that is the most accurate mode for SDR content. Why would you want 709 in Digital Cinema in the first place? It was designed to use the filter and produce the BT2020 space, you can do SDR BT2020 though which results in a very nice and bright looking image.


----------



## Bandyka

blastermaster said:


> I have found the ideal settings for both 4K movies and HD movies and NONE of them have the lamp at the highest setting. I tried it at a high setting as I'd read that you need to do that for the first 100 hours to prevent lamp flicker but honestly it's way too loud to even enjoy a movie. If you get unlucky enough to get lamp flicker, is it such that you'd need to replace the bulb or would the flicker go away with a bit of time spent at the high output setting? Every time I fire up a movie I'm just blown away by the image this thing projects - I'm so thoroughly impressed by it!


Absolutely, no need for high lamp at all. If you had Madvr you could get the same brightness as with Natural mode in low lamp for UHD movies.


----------



## TrekFX

Bandyka said:


> 709 has to be in natural that is the most accurate mode for SDR content. Why would you want 709 in Digital Cinema in the first place? It was designed to use the filter and produce the BT2020 space, you can do SDR BT2020 though which results in a very nice and bright looking image.


I was hoping to be able to avoid using the iris because initially I believed it was causing uniformity issues. The filters knocked down the brightness to where I needed but obviously, as you know, they are way too strong to allow 709 to be reined back to proper coordinates. I just learned it the hard way! Anyway, 709/NAT/iris 20 looks extremely nice, very Natural indeed, no glaring uniformity problems like I thought I saw before, greyscale and gamma are awesome using uniformity as a "graphic EQ." Yesterday was just sort of a rough pass, done as time allowed. I typically re-visit a few times before declaring total victory! 

I'm intrigued by the whole BT 2020 thing and am all set to do some runs but am still unsure about SDR setting for the brightness parameter in CMS RGBCMY. Do they follow the SDR norm?

Regarding the uniformity menu parameters: There are lots of them. 9 zones, 8 levels, 3 colors if I recall. That's 216 data points. It's a *very* powerful tool when you consider possible uses. Uniformity settings appear to be global across all modes, so any reset to default erases everything everywhere! Learned that the hard way too!


----------



## Bandyka

TrekFX said:


> I was hoping to be able to avoid using the iris because initially I believed it was causing uniformity issues. The filters knocked down the brightness to where I needed but obviously, as you know, they are way too strong to allow 709 to be reined back to proper coordinates. I just learned it the hard way! Anyway, 709/NAT/iris 20 looks extremely nice, very Natural indeed, no glaring uniformity problems like I thought I saw before, greyscale and gamma are awesome using uniformity as a "graphic EQ." Yesterday was just sort of a rough pass, done as time allowed. I typically re-visit a few times before declaring total victory!
> 
> I'm intrigued by the whole BT 2020 thing and am all set to do some runs but am still unsure about SDR setting for the brightness parameter in CMS RGBCMY. Do they follow the SDR norm?
> 
> Regarding the uniformity menu parameters: There are lots of them. 9 zones, 8 levels, 3 colors if I recall. That's 216 data points. It's a *very* powerful tool when you consider possible uses. Uniformity settings appear to be global across all modes, so any reset to default erases everything everywhere! Learned that the hard way too!


Good one, I have settled on exactly the same settings as you on natural long ago including gamma and iris -20. No point trying to meet 709 using the filter, the whole point is to reach a much wider color spectrum in digital cinema mode that is what the filter is for but it introduces a lot of light loss naturally. The key is to have it calibrated in natural with graphical gamma 2.4, iris -20, for standard SDR. Saying that I am overdue to post settings for madvr one press SDR WCG which is gold for this PJ. Any movie that appears dark in normal HDR viewing is resolved by pressing one button on the keyboard. I used to use this on my JVC as well. You retain the full BT2020/DCI-P3 spectrum but gain a whole lot of much needed brightness. This has nothing to do with settings on the PJ itself. Anyone attempts to mess with settings on the projector to improve HDR and boost brightness will result in inaccurate results no matter how appealing some may look at first, later you'll realize either the top end or bottom will have drastic issues , that's why there hasn't been one pinned proven set of settings because there just isn't one. It could only be possible with dynamic mapping such as JVC' or madVR.
Also not matter where you have the iris set as long as you calibrate grey scale to that point.


----------



## ltalbrecht

Grayson73 said:


> I just got mine last week and was told to start with these settings:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html


I am sure those are great, but I am looking for something much simpler. That printed out 16 pages with a number of different settings that frankly, I didn't understand and don't see how to adjust. Sorry.

What I am looking for is basically something along the lines of:

natural, adjust these colors to this level, hue and saturation to this, auto iris on, interpolation to medium, things like that. Very simple. And that would give me a good, general all-around picture. Or maybe someone says go with the Cinema settings and leave it alone. I could do that too.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## roland6465

ltalbrecht said:


> I am sure those are great, but I am looking for something much simpler. That printed out 16 pages with a number of different settings that frankly, I didn't understand and don't see how to adjust. Sorry.
> 
> What I am looking for is basically something along the lines of:
> 
> natural, adjust these colors to this level, hue and saturation to this, auto iris on, interpolation to medium, things like that. Very simple. And that would give me a good, general all-around picture. Or maybe someone says go with the Cinema settings and leave it alone. I could do that too.
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Sound & Vision had a decent set of settings in their review of the 5040. Search this thread or google it. I used them as my baseline before I tweaked to my likes.


----------



## olegg

ltalbrecht said:


> I am sure those are great, but I am looking for something much simpler. That printed out 16 pages with a number of different settings that frankly, I didn't understand and don't see how to adjust. Sorry.
> 
> What I am looking for is basically something along the lines of:
> 
> natural, adjust these colors to this level, hue and saturation to this, auto iris on, interpolation to medium, things like that. Very simple. And that would give me a good, general all-around picture. Or maybe someone says go with the Cinema settings and leave it alone. I could do that too.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I don't know if you paid close attention, actually there are few sets of settings for different content, like HDR, SDR, 3D ... to dial in for example any of them might take you just under 5 min and when you done you can easily store in the memory to recall it later if you want to for comparison or editing.


----------



## ltalbrecht

olegg said:


> I don't know if you paid close attention, actually there are few sets of settings for different content, like HDR, SDR, 3D ... to dial in for example any of them might take you just under 5 min and when you done you can easily store in the memory to recall it later if you want to for comparison or editing.


Probably not as close as I should have. Was pretty intimidated right off the bat. Won't do 3D, so that cuts it down. So HDR vs SDR, not sure how that works. If I am running it through the Panasonic ub420, will it automatically send it through at the native content or will it change the SDR to HDR? Sorry for my ignorance.


----------



## ltalbrecht

roland6465 said:


> Sound & Vision had a decent set of settings in their review of the 5040. Search this thread or google it. I used them as my baseline before I tweaked to my likes.


Thanks!!


----------



## olegg

ltalbrecht said:


> Probably not as close as I should have. Was pretty intimidated right off the bat. Won't do 3D, so that cuts it down. So HDR vs SDR, not sure how that works. If I am running it through the Panasonic ub420, will it automatically send it through at the native content or will it change the SDR to HDR? Sorry for my ignorance.


You're definitely have the right equipment. Your Panasonic will do HDR, see this post for awesome setup, fairly straightforward procedure. Unfortunately I don't have ub420 for exact settings on it, but even without it I am getting amazing picture on 4K HDR content from my shield tv pro.


----------



## ltalbrecht

olegg said:


> You're definitely have the right equipment. Your Panasonic will do HDR, see this post for awesome setup, fairly straightforward procedure. Unfortunately I don't have ub420 for exact settings on it, but even without it I am getting amazing picture on 4K HDR content from my shield tv pro.


That was pretty much what I was looking for. Thanks.


----------



## Grayson73

Regarding 709 vs BT 2020, do you guys set the color space to "Auto" and let the source decide? Do you have specific presets for 709 vs. 2020?

I've only been using two presets. One for SDR and one for HDR.


----------



## Morphx2

olegg said:


> You're definitely have the right equipment. Your Panasonic will do HDR, see this post for awesome setup, fairly straightforward procedure. Unfortunately I don't have ub420 for exact settings on it, but even without it I am getting amazing picture on 4K HDR content from my shield tv pro.


What's your 4k HDR settings for the shield?

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## Morphx2

What's the go to non expensive 3d glasses to get now a days?

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

https://www.amazon.com/Elikliv-Blue...=elikliv&qid=1593408552&s=electronics&sr=1-20


----------



## blastermaster

So I decided to try and hook up my tried and true Darbee into the mix. I had my Panny UB420 set to 1080P so that it would play nice with the Darbee as well as making sure that 4K enhancement would be on for the Epson. The pics are from 2 Fast 2 Furious (don't judge me, it's my guilty pleasure). The first pic is with the Darbee off, and the second is with the Darbee on. Note the detail in the blazer. It's not the greatest example, but it's what I was watching tonight and I was excited about it so I thought I'd share. I find the detail/contrast is definitely improved and I'm super impressed that it works with 4K Blu Ray. Open in multiple tabs to A/B them and see what you think.


----------



## wpbpete

Is it me, I'm a total noob to 4k and HDR, or does the top pic have more shadow detail and less glare on the face. I think I'd prefer the first pic. 



blastermaster said:


> So I decided to try and hook up my tried and true Darbee into the mix. I had my Panny UB420 set to 1080P so that it would play nice with the Darbee as well as making sure that 4K enhancement would be on for the Epson. The pics are from 2 Fast 2 Furious (don't judge me, it's my guilty pleasure). The first pic is with the Darbee off, and the second is with the Darbee on. Note the detail in the blazer. It's not the greatest example, but it's what I was watching tonight and I was excited about it so I thought I'd share. I find the detail/contrast is definitely improved and I'm super impressed that it works with 4K Blu Ray. Open in multiple tabs to A/B them and see what you think.


----------



## bluer101

blastermaster said:


> So I decided to try and hook up my tried and true Darbee into the mix. I had my Panny UB420 set to 1080P so that it would play nice with the Darbee as well as making sure that 4K enhancement would be on for the Epson. The pics are from 2 Fast 2 Furious (don't judge me, it's my guilty pleasure). The first pic is with the Darbee off, and the second is with the Darbee on. Note the detail in the blazer. It's not the greatest example, but it's what I was watching tonight and I was excited about it so I thought I'd share. I find the detail/contrast is definitely improved and I'm super impressed that it works with 4K Blu Ray. Open in multiple tabs to A/B them and see what you think.


I also bet the pictures don’t do it justice either. That’s why I said I’m completely happy not playing 4K discs for the time being. I’m going to do a new comparison to post here also. Another reason for me is I gave an older receiver (Denon 4520ci) not capable of Atmos either. So I’m perfectly fine without that too for now.


----------



## olegg

Morphx2 said:


> What's your 4k HDR settings for the shield?
> 
> Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


Here are my settings for shield tv pro 2019


----------



## olegg

wpbpete said:


> Is it me, I'm a total noob to 4k and HDR, or does the top pic have more shadow detail and less glare on the face. I think I'd prefer the first pic.


Same here, I think I prefer it without any enhancements. Probably the reason I disabled AI upscaling in shield tv also.


----------



## blastermaster

bluer101 said:


> I also bet the pictures don’t do it justice either. That’s why I said I’m completely happy not playing 4K discs for the time being. I’m going to do a new comparison to post here also. Another reason for me is I gave an older receiver (Denon 4520ci) not capable of Atmos either. So I’m perfectly fine without that too for now.


Yeah, but that's the thing. These ARE 4K discs - the Darbee is just making it better. Also, Atmos is really, really awesome. You don't know what you're missing until you try it.


----------



## Morphx2

olegg said:


> Here are my settings for shield tv pro 2019


Any special settings on the projector side too?

Thanks so far!

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## mikewhyatt

Just got the 5040ub hooked up today and the picture looks extremely washed out -- any suggested settings to combat this? I have a silver ticket acoustically transparent screen, and a door in the back left wall of the rectangular room so there is some ambient light but it does not face the screen. Hooked up via the WirelessHD transmitter and an amazon fire tv 4k stick plugged into receiver.


----------



## Morphx2

mikewhyatt said:


> Just got the 5040ub hooked up today and the picture looks extremely washed out -- any suggested settings to combat this? I have a silver ticket acoustically transparent screen, and a door in the back left wall of the rectangular room so there is some ambient light but it does not face the screen. Hooked up via the WirelessHD transmitter and an amazon fire tv 4k stick plugged into receiver.


Try 1080p sdr and make sure the options are correct in the projector?

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## olegg

Morphx2 said:


> Any special settings on the projector side too?
> 
> Thanks so far!
> 
> Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


see post 19772, the only thing if you noticed there is greenish/yellowish hue on faces on this projector, which I guess no remedy.


----------



## Grayson73

mikewhyatt said:


> Just got the 5040ub hooked up today and the picture looks extremely washed out -- any suggested settings to combat this? I have a silver ticket acoustically transparent screen, and a door in the back left wall of the rectangular room so there is some ambient light but it does not face the screen. Hooked up via the WirelessHD transmitter and an amazon fire tv 4k stick plugged into receiver.


Try these settings:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...ibration-6040ub-second-look.html#post58231408


----------



## DerKonig

Brettmckinney said:


> I have some fantastic settings for Digital Cinema mode that using the Panny UB820 doing HDR-SDR conversion. With they dynamic slider pushed up you get the brightness you need and the color filter looks phenominal.
> I have the Shield too and unfortunately not finding I can replicate without the Panny doing it's thing. Keeping with Harpervision at the moment and looks great. To my eyes much better than Rec 709 1080p.


I tought bt.2020 was the color filter, i have a really good hdr setting with natural setting are you saying that with digital cinema you have more color?


----------



## antec121

Is total operation time the total hours the projector has on it from when it came out of the box brand new? Just a little confused because I got it as a refurbished unit with zero lamp and operation hours


----------



## sleepingatsea

DerKonig said:


> I tought bt.2020 was the color filter, i have a really good hdr setting with natural setting are you saying that with digital cinema you have more color?


Yes, to engage the DCI - P3 color filter and make the most of BT.2020, you need to be in Digital Cinema mode. In natural you won't be getting the full benefits. It definitely display more natural and deeper colors however you lose some brightness when you go to Digital cinema mode. That's why I use it with the Panny player where I can increase the brightness using the Dynamic Range slider without crushing the whites or losing good blacks.


----------



## avtoronto

Brettmckinney said:


> Yes, to engage the DCI - P3 color filter and make the most of BT.2020, you need to be in Digital Cinema mode. In natural you won't be getting the full benefits. It definitely display more natural and deeper colors however you lose some brightness when you go to Digital cinema mode. That's why I use it with the Panny player where I can increase the brightness using the Dynamic Range slider without crushing the whites or losing good blacks.


Natural is for rec.709 and Cinema and Digital Cinema are for rec.2020. If you want wide colour gamut, you need the filter in place,


----------



## DerKonig

avtoronto said:


> Natural is for rec.709 and Cinema and Digital Cinema are for rec.2020. If you want wide colour gamut, you need the filter in place,


Can i use my same custom game to digital cinema, do you have a good setting for digital cinema?


----------



## Morphx2

Anyone use the hdfury diva for tone mapping?

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

DerKonig said:


> Can i use my same custom game to digital cinema, do you have a good setting for digital cinema?


I recently had the infamous power problem with my unit so am now using a refurb. As a consequence all my settings are gone and I won’t be re-establishing them until I have 100 hours on the bulb. Somewhere back in the mists of time on this thread, there is a pdf with all the different settings people used up to that point in time so that’s useful. Also, for HDR streaming purposes, I highly recommend Harpervision. For disc play, if you’re using a Panasonic player, you can skip Harpervision and use different HDR settings as the players do the tone mapping well.


----------



## DerKonig

avtoronto said:


> Natural is for rec.709 and Cinema and Digital Cinema are for rec.2020. If you want wide colour gamut, you need the filter in place,


What setting are you using for digital cinema?


----------



## b_scott

avtoronto said:


> I recently had the infamous power problem with my unit so am now using a refurb. As a consequence all my settings are gone and I won’t be re-establishing them until I have 100 hours on the bulb. Somewhere back in the mists of time on this thread, there is a pdf with all the different settings people used up to that point in time so that’s useful. Also, for HDR streaming purposes, I highly recommend Harpervision. For disc play, if you’re using a Panasonic player, you can skip Harpervision and use different HDR settings as the players do the tone mapping well.


please note, no one knows what Harpervision is, if they are new here. I had to ask around to figure it out. It's here:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-445.html#post58376282

These settings are also popular:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html


----------



## avtoronto

b_scott said:


> please note, no one knows what Harpervision is, if they are new here. I had to ask around to figure it out. It's here:
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-445.html#post58376282
> 
> These settings are also popular:
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html


The first link uses Bright Cinema which is intended for use in an environment that is not completely dark and it does not use the filter to invoke the rec.2020 colours. Harpervision uses Digital Cinema so these settings are not Harpervision. I don’t have a link handy for them right now but I’m sure you can search the the thread. Oledurt’s Cinema settings were also very good. Sorry, I don’t have the link at hand.


----------



## avtoronto

avtoronto said:


> The first link uses Bright Cinema which is intended for use in an environment that is not completely dark and it does not use the filter to invoke the rec.2020 colours. Harpervision uses Digital Cinema so these settings are not Harpervision. I don’t have a link handy for them right now but I’m sure you can search the the thread. Oledurt’s Cinema settings were also very good. Sorry, I don’t have the link at hand.


Here’s the original set for Harpervision:https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017


----------



## blazin912

WRT the harpervision is this only used for rec 2020 HDR content? Is there a corresponding rec 709 sdr setting that is recommended?

I was impressed with the HDR performance for sure, but when going back to SDR it would be great to not change the memory for picture settings if possible


----------



## avtoronto

blazin912 said:


> WRT the harpervision is this only used for rec 2020 HDR content?
> 
> 
> Is there a corresponding rec 709 sdr setting that is recommended?
> 
> I was impressed with the HDR performance for sure, but when going back to SDR it would be great to not change the memory for picture settings if possible


Yes

Several have been submitted to the thread but Natural out of the box is pretty good.

Remember with Harpervision to set the dynamic range to SDR so you could leave it like that rather than Auto, but you’ll still need to switch from DC to Natural for SDR.


----------



## blazin912

avtoronto said:


> blazin912 said:
> 
> 
> 
> WRT the harpervision is this only used for rec 2020 HDR content?
> 
> 
> Is there a corresponding rec 709 sdr setting that is recommended?
> 
> I was impressed with the HDR performance for sure, but when going back to SDR it would be great to not change the memory for picture settings if possible
> 
> 
> 
> Yes
> 
> Several have been submitted to the thread but Natural out of the box is pretty good.
> 
> Remember with Harpervision to set the dynamic range to SDR so you could leave it like that rather than Auto, but youâ€™️ll still need to switch from DC to Natural for SDR.
Click to expand...

Damn.. I guess I'll need to dive into changing the memory with a program on my harmony remote


----------



## marcosphoto

blastermaster said:


> So I decided to try and hook up my tried and true Darbee into the mix. I had my Panny UB420 set to 1080P so that it would play nice with the Darbee as well as making sure that 4K enhancement would be on for the Epson. The pics are from 2 Fast 2 Furious (don't judge me, it's my guilty pleasure). The first pic is with the Darbee off, and the second is with the Darbee on. Note the detail in the blazer. It's not the greatest example, but it's what I was watching tonight and I was excited about it so I thought I'd share. I find the detail/contrast is definitely improved and I'm super impressed that it works with 4K Blu Ray. Open in multiple tabs to A/B them and see what you think.


I am confused about Darbee. So a while back, I poster submitted shots from his Oppo that came with Darbee built in. Results looked amazing, so I thought I'd go window shopping. All that shows on their website is the model DVP-5000S (no stock btw) at $200us. Intrigued, I thought I would wait and consider buying when they finally arrived in stock. Sadly though, I went through the specs and saw that it's only HDMI1.4 compliant. This spec does not appear adequate for the panasonic 820 (nor even your player) and the 5040UB projector. Can you shed some light on bottlenecks created by the HDMI1.4 if any?


----------



## blastermaster

marcosphoto said:


> I am confused about Darbee. So a while back, I poster submitted shots from his Oppo that came with Darbee built in. Results looked amazing, so I thought I'd go window shopping. All that shows on their website is the model DVP-5000S (no stock btw) at $200us. Intrigued, I thought I would wait and consider buying when they finally arrived in stock. Sadly though, I went through the specs and saw that it's only HDMI1.4 compliant. This spec does not appear adequate for the panasonic 820 (nor even your player) and the 5040UB projector. Can you shed some light on bottlenecks created by the HDMI1.4 if any?


Yeah I don't know what to say. I have one of the first gen Darbee units. I don't think it's supposed to work, but it does. I set my Panny output to 1080P because for some reason when I don't do that it's telling my projector that even Blu Rays are a 4K signal, thus 4K enhancement is greyed out on my Epson. Maybe that has something to do with it? But even when I throw in my 4K movies (with the panny still set to 1080P), the Darbee works. To my eyes, the contrast change is significant and better. Would I go out and buy it again? I'm not sure, as the Epson is pretty darn good. I can send you a few more A/B pics (better examples) if you're seriously considering it. Let me know.


----------



## marcosphoto

blastermaster said:


> Yeah I don't know what to say. I have one of the first gen Darbee units. I don't think it's supposed to work, but it does. I set my Panny output to 1080P because for some reason when I don't do that it's telling my projector that even Blu Rays are a 4K signal, thus 4K enhancement is greyed out on my Epson. Maybe that has something to do with it? But even when I throw in my 4K movies (with the panny still set to 1080P), the Darbee works. To my eyes, the contrast change is significant and better. Would I go out and buy it again? I'm not sure, as the Epson is pretty darn good. I can send you a few more A/B pics (better examples) if you're seriously considering it. Let me know.


I would like to see more pics, sure. Are you saying the Darbee is somehow telling the PJ that the signal is 4K?


----------



## alphamalex

A Strange Bulb Story.

So here's what happened. The original bulb on my 5040UB burned. It's EPSON/USHIO labeled and has been used full power for almost 3 years now (I watch it at least 2 -3 hours daily) so I didn't think anything of it.

Ordered a new one from Jasper, and took the bulb out to just take a look. What I found was that as expected, the filament had burned, and it has come away from the main stalk.

I screwed around for a bit, and the filament got caught in the tip of the main stalk, and that's when I had a brilliant idea. Yes! I put it back in the cage, and installed it back.

Guess what? It works! I can't see any loss of light, or any weirdness in the colors, or anything!

What do you folks think. Just good luck, fire hazard, etc.? Would love to hear some input from you experts.

I'm thinking I won't cancel the new bulb order, but what just happened here? Should I consider canceling the new bulb 

Freddy ..


----------



## Grayson73

I'm getting wavy lines on my 5040UB when watching Mandalorian on Disney+ with a Roku Ultra . Is this a problem with the projector, Disney+, or Roku?

https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200704_194836.jpg.html

https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200704_193631.jpg.html


----------



## Azekecse

Grayson73 said:


> I'm getting wavy lines on my 5040UB when watching Mandalorian on Disney+ with a Roku Ultra . Is this a problem with the projector, Disney+, or Roku?
> 
> https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200704_194836.jpg.html
> 
> https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200704_193631.jpg.html


This is called RBE (Rainbow Effect) . It’ usually happens when the color wheels can’t keep up. Try reducing your brightness and perhaps darken the room. Also, I heard some people had issues with the Roku and Disney +. Do you have another source, i.e Xbox1, Apple 4K tv, etc. ? Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Grayson73

Azekecse said:


> This is called RBE (Rainbow Effect) . It’ usually happens when the color wheels can’t keep up. Try reducing your brightness and perhaps darken the room. Also, I heard some people had issues with the Roku and Disney +. Do you have another source, i.e Xbox1, Apple 4K tv, etc. ? Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Thanks! I've only noticed it with Roku and Disney+, but not all Disney+ content either. Glad to know that it's probably not an issue with any of my devices nor cables. I'm using the Adam's HDR settings.

Also, how can there be RBE (Rainbow Effect)? The Epson website says "3LCD technology ensures no color wheel, no white segment and no rainbow effect"


----------



## noob00224

Azekecse said:


> This is called RBE (Rainbow Effect) . It’ usually happens when the color wheels can’t keep up. Try reducing your brightness and perhaps darken the room. Also, I heard some people had issues with the Roku and Disney +. Do you have another source, i.e Xbox1, Apple 4K tv, etc. ? Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


How can it be RBE since it does not have a color wheel?

@Grayson73
That looks like banding, which can have a few sources:
Quality of the source, bitrate.
Bit depth used.
Ability of the display do deal with banding effects.


----------



## Azekecse

My apologies it looked RBE, I was just trying to provide reference and genesis.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## noob00224

Azekecse said:


> My apologies it looked RBE, I was just trying to provide reference and genesis.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


But can a color wheel contribute to banding? I know it's related to processing and in the case of panels related to the panel, but not sure in projectors.


----------



## roland6465

Grayson73 said:


> I'm getting wavy lines on my 5040UB when watching Mandalorian on Disney+ with a Roku Ultra . Is this a problem with the projector, Disney+, or Roku?
> 
> https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200704_194836.jpg.html
> 
> https://smg.photobucket.com/user/Grayson73/media/IMG_20200704_193631.jpg.html



As mentioned above, it's banding due to the limitations of the projector. It looks like it's getting HDR/60 signal, which it can't handle. Set your Roku to either 24 or 30Hz, and it will fix the problem.


----------



## b_scott

what's the max heat temperature that is safe to run these at, and where do you check it on the projector?


----------



## audionewer

i got a refunished 5040 from epson. i also got 1.3gain 100inch screen (16:9). i am wondering how do i make the screen look like imax screen. i want to have 2.35:1 or 2.39:1 or even 2.40:1 screen when i watch movies.


thank you


----------



## inspector

Give it time, someone will have an answer for you.


----------



## Seawater

*Red or Dead Pixel*

I have an Epson 6050 I purchased about 4 months ago. It has now 65 hours on it. I noticed a small red dot near the center of viewing. I used the lens shift and moved it to the left and right, to make sure it wasn’t the screen. And it is the projector. I’ve owned a 5020 and 5040 in the past and never had this problem. It reminds of a cat’s laser pointer shooting at the screen. Will Epson fix or replace this? Or are there any solutions?


----------



## Grayson73

Seawater said:


> I have an Epson 6050 I purchased about 4 months ago. It has now 65 hours on it. I noticed a small red dot near the center of viewing. I used the lens shift and moved it to the left and right, to make sure it wasn’t the screen. And it is the projector. I’ve owned a 5020 and 5040 in the past and never had this problem. It reminds of a cat’s laser pointer shooting at the screen. Will Epson fix or replace this? Or are there any solutions?


You might want to post in the 6050 thread as well. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...epson-5050ub-6050ub-thread-no-price-talk.html


----------



## blastermaster

roland6465 said:


> As mentioned above, it's banding due to the limitations of the projector. It looks like it's getting HDR/60 signal, which it can't handle. Set your Roku to either 24 or 30Hz, and it will fix the problem.


Interesting. I have a Panasonic UB420 and just watched Gemini Man on Prime through the player and I noticed banding in a number of spots. I'll have to look and see if I can change the settings through the prime app. I've never noticed any problems when watching Netflix through the Panny so far.


----------



## noob00224

blastermaster said:


> Interesting. I have a Panasonic UB420 and just watched Gemini Man on Prime through the player and I noticed banding in a number of spots. I'll have to look and see if I can change the settings through the prime app. I've never noticed any problems when watching Netflix through the Panny so far.


Sometimes banding (and other artifacts) is caused by reduced bandwidth. The 4K version of GM is at 59.40 fps, or that's the one on the 4K UHD. As far as I know there is no 24p version in 4K, just 1080p.

So maybe they reduced the bandwidth to account for the increased fps, or they did a conversion from 59 to 24, although I don't know if a streaming service can do that.

Was the image smoother, did it feel like 59.40 fps?


----------



## Nightwing-DG

alphamalex said:


> A Strange Bulb Story.
> 
> So here's what happened. The original bulb on my 5040UB burned. It's EPSON/USHIO labeled and has been used full power for almost 3 years now (I watch it at least 2 -3 hours daily) so I didn't think anything of it.
> 
> Ordered a new one from Jasper, and took the bulb out to just take a look. What I found was that as expected, the filament had burned, and it has come away from the main stalk.
> 
> I screwed around for a bit, and the filament got caught in the tip of the main stalk, and that's when I had a brilliant idea. Yes! I put it back in the cage, and installed it back.
> 
> Guess what? It works! I can't see any loss of light, or any weirdness in the colors, or anything!
> 
> What do you folks think. Just good luck, fire hazard, etc.? Would love to hear some input from you experts.
> 
> I'm thinking I won't cancel the new bulb order, but what just happened here? Should I consider canceling the new bulb
> 
> Freddy ..


I don't know anything about bulbs but you put it back into that hole and it just worked? Nice! 

Has it happened again or is still working?


----------



## audionewer

how do i set HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color on epson 5040 setting?


----------



## audionewer

where can i ddl latest firmware 1.11?

which hdfury i shall i buy to convert to 4:2:2 4k30p / 4k60p 10/12bit color?


----------



## bluer101

audionewer said:


> where can i ddl latest firmware 1.11?
> 
> which hdfury i shall i buy to convert to 4:2:2 4k30p / 4k60p 10/12bit color?


Latest is 1.14

You can find it here and scroll down. 

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805??...671&cjevent=1e04f92c478f11ea829c00870a1c0e14#


----------



## b_scott

I've set some HDR and SDR memory presets, and I've set my Shield TV to output 23.x HZ. It seems that when I play an HDR show, it switches to some sort of HDR settings but I'm not sure which ones. And then it switches back after I stop and go back to the menus. This may be the Shield though, not the projector. Trying to figure this all out.


----------



## b_scott

Also, I can't seem to get HDMI Link to work. I want my projector to turn on when my Onkyo turns on, and off when it turns off. CEC is enabled on my Onkyo and Device -> PJ is on under HDMI link. I don't know what to do.


----------



## kklarson

*Netflix in 4K AND HDR AND Dolby Atmos*

I'm looking for a solution to getting Netflix in 4K AND HDR AND Dolby Atmos on the 5040UB. The biggest obstacle is Atmos; my FireTV Stick 4K and Roku Premier 4K won't do it. I can get Atmos on my PC with the Netflix app, but my GTX 1050 is 2GB in my PC with an AMD CPU and the minimum requirement for 4K is 3GB (https://help.netflix.com/en/node/23931?ba=SwiftypeResultClick&q=windows, https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4583/~/4k-uhd-netflix-content-on-nvidia-gpus), so I would have to invest quite a bit in a new PC or a new GTX card, and they're not cheap. Another hurdle is that the 5040UB can do 4K 60Hz but not in HDR. It can do 4K at 24/30Hz in HDR, but Netflix requires 60Hz for 4K on PC, so that would eliminate HDR.

So now I'm looking at the Apple TV 4K. Has anyone reading this confirmed that the Apple TV 4K + Netflix in 24/30Hz will do 4K + HDR + Dolby Atmos at the same time?

Edit: Almost forgot, my newly acquired Tivo Stream 4K also won't do Dolby Atmos with Netflix.


----------



## VinnieB

kklarson said:


> I'm looking for a solution to getting Netflix in 4K AND HDR AND Dolby Atmos on the 5040UB. The biggest obstacle is Atmos; my FireTV Stick 4K and Roku Premier 4K won't do it. I can get Atmos on my PC with the Netflix app, but my GTX 1050 is 2GB in my PC with an AMD CPU and the minimum requirement for 4K is 3GB (https://help.netflix.com/en/node/23931?ba=SwiftypeResultClick&q=windows, https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4583/~/4k-uhd-netflix-content-on-nvidia-gpus), so I would have to invest quite a bit in a new PC or a new GTX card, and they're not cheap. Another hurdle is that the 5040UB can do 4K 60Hz but not in HDR. It can do 4K at 24/30Hz in HDR, but Netflix requires 60Hz for 4K on PC, so that would eliminate HDR.
> 
> So now I'm looking at the Apple TV 4K. Has anyone reading this confirmed that the Apple TV 4K + Netflix in 24/30Hz will do 4K + HDR + Dolby Atmos at the same time?
> 
> Edit: Almost forgot, my newly acquired Tivo Stream 4K also won't do Dolby Atmos with Netflix.


I ran into the same problem with the Fire Stick 4K. I had an old one with my 5030UB and just recently bought a new 4K stick because I was under the impression is supported Atmos, which it kind of does but only for Prime. Then after the fact, I dug into it a little deeper and found out only the Amazon Fire Cube will do Atmos with Netflix. 

For your HDR needs, get the HDFury Linker. It will take any 4K60 10-bit HDR signal and downscale it to 4K60 8-bit HDR, which this projector will do. This is what I use, but HDR can be a hit or miss with this projector. Some content I find HDR 3 works best and some HDR 2 with super white on. But maybe this is because it's downscaling it to 8-bit? All my Blu Rays in HDR look pretty good with HDR 1 and they're in 4k24 12-bit HDR. So maybe that could be why I have a hard time with games and Netflix.


----------



## b_scott

not sure what Atmos has to do with your Epson. It has nothing to do with Audio, and the Firestick 4K definitely does Atmos.

Shield TV is your best bet for the best quality in a stick-like device. Works well on my 5040, with an HD Linker as mentioned above.


----------



## Grayson73

kklarson said:


> I'm looking for a solution to getting Netflix in 4K AND HDR AND Dolby Atmos on the 5040UB. The biggest obstacle is Atmos; my FireTV Stick 4K and Roku Premier 4K won't do it. I can get Atmos on my PC with the Netflix app, but my GTX 1050 is 2GB in my PC with an AMD CPU and the minimum requirement for 4K is 3GB (https://help.netflix.com/en/node/23931?ba=SwiftypeResultClick&q=windows, https://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4583/~/4k-uhd-netflix-content-on-nvidia-gpus), so I would have to invest quite a bit in a new PC or a new GTX card, and they're not cheap. Another hurdle is that the 5040UB can do 4K 60Hz but not in HDR. It can do 4K at 24/30Hz in HDR, but Netflix requires 60Hz for 4K on PC, so that would eliminate HDR.
> 
> So now I'm looking at the Apple TV 4K. Has anyone reading this confirmed that the Apple TV 4K + Netflix in 24/30Hz will do 4K + HDR + Dolby Atmos at the same time?
> 
> Edit: Almost forgot, my newly acquired Tivo Stream 4K also won't do Dolby Atmos with Netflix.


You can also use the EZCOOTECH HDMI switch. It has EDID to set it to 4k60Hz 4:2:0 which the 5040UB will take.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TD81BDH


----------



## VinnieB

b_scott said:


> not sure what Atmos has to do with your Epson. It has nothing to do with Audio, and *the Firestick 4K definitely does Atmos*.
> 
> Shield TV is your best bet for the best quality in a stick-like device. Works well on my 5040, with an HD Linker as mentioned above.


Like I mentioned, it does but it doesn't. The Atmos is built into Amazon Prime, not the Firestick itself. Meaning, there's no setting in the Firestick UI for Atmos. Instead, you have to watching something on Amazon Prime that is in Atmos and then select it within the audio options in the player. If you want a Amazon streaming device that supports Atmos with Netflix, you need to get the Cube.


----------



## Grayson73

Roku Ultra will stream Netflix with Atmos, right?

EDIT: Ahh, seems like it's problem with the Netflix app on Roku


----------



## b_scott

VinnieB said:


> Like I mentioned, it does but it doesn't. The Atmos is built into Amazon Prime, not the Firestick itself. Meaning, there's no setting in the Firestick UI for Atmos. Instead, you have to watching something on Amazon Prime that is in Atmos and then select it within the audio options in the player. If you want a Amazon streaming device that supports Atmos with Netflix, you need to get the Cube.


I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but my LG OLED shows the Atmos flag dropdown automatically when playing Atmos Netflix media, on my 4K Stick.

edit: I'm seeing this:

https://www.avforums.com/threads/netflix-atmos-fire-tv-4k-stick.2267977/

but I know I see Dolby Atmos dropdown in the corner on my LG OLED when I play Atmos Netflix titles. i'll check again and take a screenshot.


----------



## VinnieB

b_scott said:


> I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but my LG OLED shows the Atmos flag dropdown automatically when playing Atmos Netflix media, on my 4K Stick.


You sure you're not using the built in Netflix app on your TV? Because it is impossible to get Atmos on Netflix with a Firestick, unless you have Kodi and using the Netflix addon?

https://www.avforums.com/threads/netflix-atmos-fire-tv-4k-stick.2267977/


----------



## b_scott

wow, you are right. I must be crazy or thinking of the Disney+ app. Luckily I don't care about Atmos on my OLED since it is just using built in speakers anyway. Good thing I have a Shield TV on my projector.


----------



## Valleyboy

I'm not an expert at calibrating, I have taken other's settings and used them to pretty good effect. But I have found recently a lot of my settings have given people rather red faces. Everything else seems okay with the picture, just the reddish skin tones. I was wondering what I should be tinkering with to help with the problem?


----------



## kklarson

Thanks for all the info. I've been relying on the information from Epson, https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H713020~faq-0000530-plhc5040ub?utm_source=&utm_medium=van&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=us-hdrcompatibility#, about what the 5040UB can and can't do. The comment "set it to 4k60Hz 4:2:0 which the 5040UB will take" made me wonder. The Epson specs say it won't. But I think I have been able to get it into this mode judged by the Projector Info screen. I thought it was some kind of bug. Unfortunately, not good enough for Netflix.

This discussion made me realize I was forgetting an important detail, HDR. I didn't know that Netflix requires 10-bit 4:4:4 HDR for it's 4K stream, another thing that the projector can't handle (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-networking-media-servers-content-streaming/2953472-netflix-4k-streams-10-bit-60hz.html#post55602952).

My question about Dolby Atmos wasn't in regard to the projector, but about trying to find a device that could _also_ handle it in addition to the image settings. You have to dig hard to find the info in Netflix's help pages, but very few devices are compatible. I'd like something to occasionally come out of all my 11 speakers.

I hadn't looked at scalers because I thought they still cost a fortune. Will the HDFury Linker and the EZCOOTECH HDMI switch take a 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 signal and downconvert it to a 4K 30Hz 4:2:2 signal? More importantly, has anyone here verified getting a Netflix UltraHD 4K AND HDR stream with this projector using a scaling device?


----------



## Xavier3

Valleyboy said:


> I'm not an expert at calibrating, I have taken other's settings and used them to pretty good effect. But I have found recently a lot of my settings have given people rather red faces. Everything else seems okay with the picture, just the reddish skin tones. I was wondering what I should be tinkering with to help with the problem?


Not that I have the answer, but you might get better help if you list what settings you're using and what source/media you're playing (4k UHD, Bluray 1080p, etc.)

In advanced settings, if you're playing 1080p content, make sure the "color space" in advanced settings is set to "auto" and not BT.2020. That is the biggest reason the red faces happened to me. Unfortunately, the memory settings do not save the color space setting.


----------



## Grayson73

The original post has a chart. 5040UB can take 4k30 4:4:4 or 4k60 4:2:0. I don't have Netflix, but the EZCOOTECH cannot downconvert 4k30 4:4:4 to. You have to send it 4k30 4:4:4.

It CAN downconvert to 4k60 4:2:0. I use it to downconvert the Xfinity X1 DVR and Roku Ultra (Disney+) to 4k60 4:2:0. I can confirm that I can get Amazon Prime HDR through the X1 and HDR through Roku Disney+.


----------



## alphamalex

Nightwing-DG said:


> I don't know anything about bulbs but you put it back into that hole and it just worked? Nice!
> 
> Has it happened again or is still working?


So it burned out again after about 24 hours of use in low. There was a previously intact smaller filament which I didn't notice last time, but it's melted now. Looks like this time it's not salvageable 

Freddy ..


----------



## kklarson

I asked HDFury about downconverting and they replied "It is not possible to convert 60hz to 30hz at this time."



Grayson73 said:


> You can also use the EZCOOTECH HDMI switch. It has EDID to set it to 4k60Hz 4:2:0 which the 5040UB will take.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TD81BDH


 and


VinnieB said:


> ...get the HDFury Linker. It will take any 4K60 10-bit HDR signal and downscale it to 4K60 8-bit HDR, which this projector will do.


 I still had in my mind Epson's specs that showed it could not do HDR in any 60Hz mode. So you guys have confirmed Viche's post (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...0ub-6040ub-owners-thread-59.html#post47433793) that the projector will accept 4K 60Hz 8-bit 4:2:0? I appreciate that you've shared this information as it sounds like the only option to get Netflix in 4K and HDR on this projector.


----------



## VinnieB

kklarson said:


> I asked HDFury about downconverting and they replied "It is not possible to convert 60hz to 30hz at this time."
> 
> 
> 
> Grayson73 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can also use the EZCOOTECH HDMI switch. It has EDID to set it to 4k60Hz 4:2:0 which the 5040UB will take.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TD81BDH
> 
> 
> 
> and
> 
> 
> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...get the HDFury Linker. It will take any 4K60 10-bit HDR signal and downscale it to 4K60 8-bit HDR, which this projector will do.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I still had in my mind Epson's specs that showed it could not do HDR in any 60Hz mode. So you guys have confirmed Viche's post (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...0ub-6040ub-owners-thread-59.html#post47433793) that the projector will accept 4K 60Hz 8-bit 4:2:0? I appreciate that you've shared this information as it sounds like the only option to get Netflix in 4K and HDR on this projector.
Click to expand...

Yeah you can't convert refresh rates but the linker is a good option to get HDR from Netflix.


----------



## sddp

Would this aftermarket bulb work just as good as the OEM or not worth it?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GYRKLCB/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=AMGHNC6DDNZ28&psc=1


----------



## TrekFX

sddp said:


> Would this aftermarket bulb work just as good as the OEM or not worth it?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GYRKLCB/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=AMGHNC6DDNZ28&psc=1


My experience with non-OEM lamps has been dismal (experience from an older model, not the 5040). Really, spend the extra $50 or so bucks for genuine Epson and save the same cost you would have spent on headache relief dealing with junk lamps.


----------



## kklarson

I checked out out my Tivo Stream 4K and it is indeed able to output 4K 60Hz + 4:2:0 8-bit HDR (see attachment).

Looking at Netflix with the Tivo Stream 4K, some programs that are both 4K and HDR are tagged as Ultra HD 4K or as HDR but not both. Does Netflix ever show both the Ultra HD 4K and HDR tags for any program?

At least Tivo acknowledges the Dolby Atmos problem with Netflix and plan to fix it: " Dolby Atmos may not display on Netflix. We are aware of this issue. We are expecting a fix on an upcoming software update." (https://tivoidp.tivo.com/tivoCommunitySupport/s/article/Dolby-Atmos-on-TiVo-Stream-4K) The Tivo Stream 4K might turn out to be the device that will give me 4K and HDR with the 5040UB plus Dolby Atmos.


----------



## Grayson73

kklarson said:


> I asked HDFury about downconverting and they replied "It is not possible to convert 60hz to 30hz at this time."
> 
> and I still had in my mind Epson's specs that showed it could not do HDR in any 60Hz mode. So you guys have confirmed Viche's post (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...0ub-6040ub-owners-thread-59.html#post47433793) that the projector will accept 4K 60Hz 8-bit 4:2:0? I appreciate that you've shared this information as it sounds like the only option to get Netflix in 4K and HDR on this projector.


The EZCOO switch converts Xfinity X1 DVR from 4k60 4:4:4 10-bit to 4k60 4:2:0 8-bit. When I use the Roku Ultra with it, it says I can only use 4k30, so it converts that to 4k60 4:2:0 8-bit as well I think. However, I wonder if that's why I have a banding issue sometimes with Disney+.


----------



## b_scott

Ok my 5040 fan is driving me crazy. I don’t mind when it’s on, but when it starts up or slows down it makes a whining/vibrating sound that annoys the crap out of me. Very irritating. Right now it’s just starting up and stopping over and over after watching movies for a couple hours. Anyone else have this issue and a solution or is it inherent to the projector? Almost seems like the ball bearing in the fan is bad.


----------



## marcosphoto

b_scott said:


> Ok my 5040 fan is driving me crazy. I don’t mind when it’s on, but when it starts up or slows down it makes a whining/vibrating sound that annoys the crap out of me. Very irritating. Right now it’s just starting up and stopping over and over after watching movies for a couple hours. Anyone else have this issue and a solution or is it inherent to the projector? Almost seems like the ball bearing in the fan is bad.


 We have our 5040 about 2 ft behind and 2 ft above our heads, the fan is really only noticeable during quiet scenes on "normal" mode. Even then, never enough to be a problem. I figure there must be something wrong with yours, because a loud fan would bother me to no end. I remember when I first plugged in the 5040, even on ECO I found it louder than my panasonic and felt that it would be a problem. Never ended up causing me any grief.


----------



## reebok

*4K enhancement*

Hello all,
I am confused about the 5040 4K enhancement. I thought it took a 4K signal and pixel shifted to make faux-4k. Now I am thinking it is just an enhancement to make "inferior" sources (i.e. non-4k) look better (i.e. enhancement or upscaling.)
I am using madVR with an HTPC and upscale my content to 4k resolution. So my 4k enhancement option in the epson is grayed out...because it thinks it is getting a 4k source I guess? But again I thought the 4k enhancement was for actual 4k content to do the pixel shifting.
Would appreciate clarification. Thanks!


----------



## b_scott

Mine has always been greyed out. Unsure how it works. Probably because my shield TV and Panny 820 are both 4K native.


----------



## inspector

My 6040 is 5' above and 1' back from the MLP. I have a Mini Split on the wall to the left of the MLP. On that same wall on the other side is my pool equipment. On top of my Denon 4300 is a fan on med speed. 


At no time do I hear any sound from the mini-split, PJ fan, pool equipment or AVR fan...unless there is nothing showing on the PJ. Once the movie starts, all the peripheral sound is non existent.


That's the craps that you guys hear all that sound and can't enjoy the movie...SOLUTION...TURN UP THE VOLUME!


----------



## blastermaster

b_scott said:


> Ok my 5040 fan is driving me crazy. I don’t mind when it’s on, but when it starts up or slows down it makes a whining/vibrating sound that annoys the crap out of me. Very irritating. Right now it’s just starting up and stopping over and over after watching movies for a couple hours. Anyone else have this issue and a solution or is it inherent to the projector? Almost seems like the ball bearing in the fan is bad.


I tried someone's settings where they set the output to "high" and the fan noise was unbearable. I put it back down to normal and it was just fine. Maybe check and see if that's the problem?


----------



## b_scott

blastermaster said:


> b_scott said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok my 5040 fan is driving me crazy. I donâ€™️t mind when itâ€™️s on, but when it starts up or slows down it makes a whining/vibrating sound that annoys the crap out of me. Very irritating. Right now itâ€™️s just starting up and stopping over and over after watching movies for a couple hours. Anyone else have this issue and a solution or is it inherent to the projector? Almost seems like the ball bearing in the fan is bad.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried someone's settings where they set the output to "high" and the fan noise was unbearable. I put it back down to normal and it was just fine. Maybe check and see if that's the problem?
Click to expand...

It’s on eco or medium. It’s not the air blowing sound it’s the fan making a startup and stopping noise.


----------



## b_scott

b_scott said:


> blastermaster said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> b_scott said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok my 5040 fan is driving me crazy. I donâ€™️t mind when itâ€™️s on, but when it starts up or slows down it makes a whining/vibrating sound that annoys the crap out of me. Very irritating. Right now itâ€™️s just starting up and stopping over and over after watching movies for a couple hours. Anyone else have this issue and a solution or is it inherent to the projector? Almost seems like the ball bearing in the fan is bad.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried someone's settings where they set the output to "high" and the fan noise was unbearable. I put it back down to normal and it was just fine. Maybe check and see if that's the problem?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It’s on eco or medium. It’s not the air blowing sound it’s the fan making a startup and stopping noise.
Click to expand...


Ok I’m dumb. It was the fan I installed in the projector box. I’m setting it to always be on low.


----------



## bigdad56

So I just bought a 5040ub and was wondering if you guys had a screen suggestion? would like to spend less than $300 on a fixed screen if possible? I'm sure somewhere in this forum it's been discussed but 662 pages are a lot lol.


----------



## Dominic Chan

bigdad56 said:


> So I just bought a 5040ub and was wondering if you guys had a screen suggestion? would like to spend less than $300 on a fixed screen if possible? I'm sure somewhere in this forum it's been discussed but 662 pages are a lot lol.


Something like that:

https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-169120


----------



## b_scott

Does anyone have the discrete codes for the 5040? Looking to change Memory 1, 2, 3, etc for my Harmony.


----------



## b_scott

bigdad56 said:


> So I just bought a 5040ub and was wondering if you guys had a screen suggestion? would like to spend less than $300 on a fixed screen if possible? I'm sure somewhere in this forum it's been discussed but 662 pages are a lot lol.


spandex and wood and staples will run you about $120 tops. But if you don't need an acoustically transparent screen, then also painting a flat wall (or drywall piece cut to screen size) is a good option.


----------



## atlmaximus

I have the spandex screen with 5040 and it looks good. I built the screen with help from DIY Screen build forum. I do plan on doing some comparisons to SeymourAV screens soon. See screen build thread if you need help.

b_scott, Before I get into testing other screen material, I was hoping to calibrate 5040 a bit (currently all is at default settings). Any recommended settings to leverage? Also, I currently have an older denon receiver and use Apple 4K tv device to stream netfilx and amazon prime on 5040. Any concerns here or things I should check? 5040 is plugged in using 4K HDMI cable but not sure Denon receiver handles 4K. 





b_scott said:


> spandex and wood and staples will run you about $120 tops. But if you don't need an acoustically transparent screen, then also painting a flat wall (or drywall piece cut to screen size) is a good option.


----------



## b_scott

atlmaximus said:


> I have the spandex screen with 5040 and it looks good. I built the screen with help from DIY Screen build forum. I do plan on doing some comparisons to SeymourAV screens soon. See screen build thread if you need help.
> 
> b_scott, Before I get into testing other screen material, I was hoping to calibrate 5040 a bit (currently all is at default settings). Any recommended settings to leverage? Also, I currently have an older denon receiver and use Apple 4K tv device to stream netfilx and amazon prime on 5040. Any concerns here or things I should check? 5040 is plugged in using 4K HDMI cable but not sure Denon receiver handles 4K.


I flip between the 5 settings in this post:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html

and also Harpervision:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-445.html#post58376282

However because of the spandex's low gain, I find that bumping up brightness about +10 on the settings listed helps. I also find that Harpervision gives me the best contrast of all for movie watching in HDR. But otherwise I mostly stick with 500 nit HDR, or 2.4fl SDR settings from the first post. I have a Panasonic 820 UHD player that I have set to output BT.2020 in SDR, which helps on the projector since otherwise HDR is really too dark.

In your case I would first find out if you Denon passes 4K. If it doesn't, I'd get a new receiver. I use a Shield TV as my streaming player, rather than Amazon Fire TV which doesn't pass full audio signal or Dolby Vision in some cases. Fire TV is fine for my OLED without surround, but Shield is better for my full quality BD rips on my projector.


----------



## Azekecse

sddp said:


> Would this aftermarket bulb work just as good as the OEM or not worth it?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GYRKLCB/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=AMGHNC6DDNZ28&psc=1


When I owned my Epson 6040 I tried a non OEM lamp and I had to return it due to malfunctioning. You can certainly try it, but IMHO, it's not worth it to save a few bucks. 

Go OEM, you will be much happier in the end. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## sddp

Azekecse said:


> When I owned my Epson 6040 I tried a non OEM lamp and I had to return it due to malfunctioning. You can certainly try it, but IMHO, it's not worth it to save a few bucks.
> 
> Go OEM, you will be much happier in the end. Hope this helps.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Thanks, I was hoping someone perhaps tried this specific brand? It has fairly good reviews (even though I read all reviews with a grain of salt). I bought my 5040 the month it came out and averaged around 500-600 hours a year in high mode, but ever since this pandemic I've put about a 1,000 this year and since I am planning on getting a 4K native next year (the next Gen JVC NX7) don't want to put more money into this if I can avoid it. 

One of the reviews mentioned even though it worked great, it was different


----------



## tibimakai

Some of these cheaper bulb options, will change the colors/brightness as well.


----------



## bluer101

bigdad56 said:


> So I just bought a 5040ub and was wondering if you guys had a screen suggestion? would like to spend less than $300 on a fixed screen if possible? I'm sure somewhere in this forum it's been discussed but 662 pages are a lot lol.


Spandex










From this weekend with my new masking system.


----------



## reebok

Archaea said:


> As an owner of a Darbee unit, I think something is afoul in this comparison. I'll pull mine back out of the box for a comparison again. I just put mine away when I bought the 5040UB, because it doesn't pass 4K, and my picture looked better on the 5040UB going from the Panasonic AE8000U w/ Darbee, to the 5040UB without. I don't think I even tried it on the 5040UB. I too liked mine at 35% on the HD setting when I used it with the Panasonic AE8000U.


did you ever do this comparison? thanks.


----------



## b_scott

bluer101 said:


> bigdad56 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I just bought a 5040ub and was wondering if you guys had a screen suggestion? would like to spend less than $300 on a fixed screen if possible? I'm sure somewhere in this forum it's been discussed but 662 pages are a lot lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Spandex/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From this weekend with my new masking system.
Click to expand...

What’s your masking system?


----------



## bluer101

b_scott said:


> What’s your masking system?


You can check out the build starting here in my dedicated theater. 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-d...-dedicated-theater-build-11.html#post59489640


----------



## olegg

2 questions, why is the second screenshot looks better? all black around, amazing. Your spandex material, can you give reference where did you buy it? I am in Canada any sources there. Thanks

Oh, I got it the second shot with your new masking system, totally worth it.


----------



## b_scott

bluer101 said:


> You can check out the build starting here in my dedicated theater.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-d...-dedicated-theater-build-11.html#post59489640


very cool! I don't have the vertical space for that but that's awesome.


----------



## audionewer

can this projector do 10 bit and 12 bit color depth or not?


----------



## b_scott

audionewer said:


> can this projector do 10 bit and 12 bit color depth or not?


no. but it can accept it and will display in 8 bit.


----------



## audionewer

does that mean when i play hdr movies, the movies will not bright enough?

is there any good setting for watching hdr movies?


----------



## b_scott

audionewer said:


> does that mean when i play hdr movies, the movies will not bright enough?
> 
> is there any good setting for watching hdr movies?


bit depth has nothing to do with brightness. it's number of colors.

I'm questioning my answer because I know my X1X doesn't work with the Epson in HDR without my HD Linker connector, but this is what the 5040 does:

https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H713020~faq-0000530-plhc5040ub

Look up a few posts where I posted settings I use. Harpervision is a good place to start for HDR, but add maybe +10 brightness if you're doing a low gain screen (in my case .7 gain on spandex).


----------



## audionewer

my screen is 1.3 gains. is that too bright.

how do i change the gamma setting?


----------



## bfb1963

All of the sudden my 5040 has washed out reds and it has a slight green parlor. Only 450hrs, but it is a factory refurb. Any ideas about what’s going on?


----------



## wormszer

I just got a refurb 5040ub and right out of the box powering it on. It comes up flashing lights, i think with a fan or sensor error.
I was reading back through the forums and seems these units had lots of issues. Kind of wish i would of found that first.

I am starting to deal with epson support.

Should I push for trying to get another model? Maybe the Home Cinema 4010 instead?
Or have the issues from before been worked out? My Home cinema 3010 just started dying after 9 years.
I don't really want to be worried its going to die right after the warranty in 2 years.

Thanks


----------



## noob00224

wormszer said:


> I just got a refurb 5040ub and right out of the box powering it on. It comes up flashing lights, i think with a fan or sensor error.
> I was reading back through the forums and seems these units had lots of issues. Kind of wish i would of found that first.
> 
> I am starting to deal with epson support.
> 
> Should I push for trying to get another model? Maybe the Home Cinema 4010 instead?
> Or have the issues from before been worked out? My Home cinema 3010 just started dying after 9 years.
> I don't really want to be worried its going to die right after the warranty in 2 years.
> 
> Thanks


No, just get another 5040. It's superior to the 4000 series. There's no reason to believe the 4000 series would behave any differently. 

You can get a 6040 with 3 years warranty, and maybe some extra warranty through some CC/debit card offering, if available.


----------



## Zoltrix

Hi all,

Is anyone using a Pioneer VSX-LX503 with their 5040ub/6040ub? I recently updated the firmware on the receiver to the latest version (1071-0000-1060-0011), and now HDR doesn't work.

HDR previously worked on my Nvidia Shield (Kodi and Amazon Prime), but now it only sees the signal as SDR.

Cheers,
Zolt


----------



## Bandyka

Zoltrix said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Is anyone using a Pioneer VSX-LX503 with their 5040ub/6040ub? I recently updated the firmware on the receiver to the latest version (1071-0000-1060-0011), and now HDR doesn't work.
> 
> HDR previously worked on my Nvidia Shield (Kodi and Amazon Prime), but now it only sees the signal as SDR.
> 
> Cheers,
> Zolt


Is there a straight signal passthrough option in the AVR?


----------



## Zoltrix

Bandyka said:


> Is there a straight signal passthrough option in the AVR?


All good, I set the Nvidia Shield to output at 4K/23.976 instead of 4K/60, and problem solved.

I didn't need to do this previously for things like Kodi and Prime (they must of switched refresh rate automatically?). But the advantage is now I get 4k HDR for Netflix as well, whereas previously I just got 4k.


----------



## laoping

So I have a Marantz SR6014.. I have the option of picking up a 5040 a nice price.. I currently have no projector.

Just wondering would I need a HdLinker to get nice 4k from sources.. I have a Nvidia Shield I use for Kodi/Netflix. I love me some nice HDR. 

I mean... is the 5040 still the way to go? Or should I not? For all you who have it now, is it still awesome? The 5050 is a bunch more $$.. 

I hear the 5040 still looks awesome .. I'd just hate to spend all this time and whatnot on the theater and then only kinda like the projector ..


----------



## atlmaximus

b_Scott: My sincere apologies for the late follow-up. Certainly appreciate you relaying the info. I will give this a try and follow-up if any questions. 



b_scott said:


> I flip between the 5 settings in this post:
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html
> 
> and also Harpervision:
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-445.html#post58376282
> 
> However because of the spandex's low gain, I find that bumping up brightness about +10 on the settings listed helps. I also find that Harpervision gives me the best contrast of all for movie watching in HDR. But otherwise I mostly stick with 500 nit HDR, or 2.4fl SDR settings from the first post. I have a Panasonic 820 UHD player that I have set to output BT.2020 in SDR, which helps on the projector since otherwise HDR is really too dark.
> 
> In your case I would first find out if you Denon passes 4K. If it doesn't, I'd get a new receiver. I use a Shield TV as my streaming player, rather than Amazon Fire TV which doesn't pass full audio signal or Dolby Vision in some cases. Fire TV is fine for my OLED without surround, but Shield is better for my full quality BD rips on my projector.


----------



## Zoltrix

laoping said:


> So I have a Marantz SR6014.. I have the option of picking up a 5040 a nice price.. I currently have no projector.
> 
> Just wondering would I need a HdLinker to get nice 4k from sources.. I have a Nvidia Shield I use for Kodi/Netflix. I love me some nice HDR.
> 
> I mean... is the 5040 still the way to go? Or should I not? For all you who have it now, is it still awesome? The 5050 is a bunch more $$..
> 
> I hear the 5040 still looks awesome .. I'd just hate to spend all this time and whatnot on the theater and then only kinda like the projector ..


Yep I love mine. And using the Shield will provide you HDR at 4k as long as you set the Shield's display settings manually to 4K/23.976.


----------



## Tom J. Davis

Zoltrix said:


> Yep I love mine. And using the Shield will provide you HDR at 4k as long as you set the Shield's display settings manually to 4K/23.976.


Love mine as well. I use an Apple TV4K set to 4k/23.976 and a Panasonic UB-420. Works great. I don't play games on it so I don't miss the 4k/60, at least not yet.


----------



## blastermaster

laoping said:


> So I have a Marantz SR6014.. I have the option of picking up a 5040 a nice price.. I currently have no projector.
> 
> Just wondering would I need a HdLinker to get nice 4k from sources.. I have a Nvidia Shield I use for Kodi/Netflix. I love me some nice HDR.
> 
> I mean... is the 5040 still the way to go? Or should I not? For all you who have it now, is it still awesome? The 5050 is a bunch more $$..
> 
> I hear the 5040 still looks awesome .. I'd just hate to spend all this time and whatnot on the theater and then only kinda like the projector ..


Omigosh you will never get anything even remotely close to the 5040 refurb in terms of picture quality and features at this price. I use a Panny UB420 for discs and Prime, PC for Netflix and Steam games, PS4 and Switch for games, so I'm not sure how the Nvidia will work out. If you have all the cash in the world, go with the 5050. But on a budget, the 5040 refurb can't be beat.


----------



## Mr-W

Where are people buying their replacement bulbs from? I picked up a gently used 5040UB a few months ago with a bulb over halfway through it's "life expectancy" and immediately went in search for an OEM replacement bulb, knowing the market was saturated with knock-offs and budget bulbs. The projector came with Epson's OEM bulb and it has been working fine for the past few months but I want to be prepared for an out of stock / back-ordered / discontinued situation in the future. I picked up an "OEM Bulb" from (what I though was) a reputable site, but it does not match what I've found online and seemed dimmer than the aging bulb I was replacing. So back to my original question, where are people buying their LEGITIMATE OEM BULBS? Thanks for the help everyone.


----------



## bigdad56

bluer101 said:


> Spandex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From this weekend with my new masking system.



Wow these images look fantastic! I've been in overload looking at the screen types and due to the weird walls in my theater room I'm going to have to hang it and can't mount it to the wall.


----------



## Morphx2

Is converting HDR to SDR (like a downscaler 4K HDR to 1080p SDR) before hitting the Epson the same as sending 4k HDR and setting the Epson to SDR signal mode?

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## reebok

Morphx2 said:


> Is converting HDR to SDR (like a downscaler 4K HDR to 1080p SDR) before hitting the Epson the same as sending 4k HDR and setting the Epson to SDR signal mode?


No, converting HDR to SDR is having the full effect of HDR on a screen/device that can't handle HDR. Or also, it is much better for projectors due to their lower nits compared to TVs. It gives a much brighter HDR image than using a projector's native HDR. I have done both and there is no comparison.
Sending HDR to the projector and putting it in SDR mode will be completely wrong (it will look terrible) and it will not be HDR.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...mproving-madvr-hdr-sdr-mapping-projector.html


----------



## Morphx2

reebok said:


> No, converting HDR to SDR is having the full effect of HDR on a screen/device that can't handle HDR. Or also, it is much better for projectors due to their lower nits compared to TVs. It gives a much brighter HDR image than using a projector's native HDR. I have done both and there is no comparison.
> Sending HDR to the projector and putting it in SDR mode will be completely wrong (it will look terrible) and it will not be HDR.
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...mproving-madvr-hdr-sdr-mapping-projector.html


So a device to downscale 4K HDR to 1080P SDR is the way to go as an option? I was looking at this item

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee

They confirmed it will do 4K HDR to 1080P SDR

MadVR won't help me with my ShieldTV


----------



## Azekecse

Mr-W said:


> Where are people buying their replacement bulbs from? I picked up a gently used 5040UB a few months ago with a bulb over halfway through it's "life expectancy" and immediately went in search for an OEM replacement bulb, knowing the market was saturated with knock-offs and budget bulbs. The projector came with Epson's OEM bulb and it has been working fine for the past few months but I want to be prepared for an out of stock / back-ordered / discontinued situation in the future. I picked up an "OEM Bulb" from (what I though was) a reputable site, but it does not match what I've found online and seemed dimmer than the aging bulb I was replacing. So back to my original question, where are people buying their LEGITIMATE OEM BULBS? Thanks for the help everyone.


Try Jaspertronics. Good luck.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## reebok

Morphx2 said:


> So a device to downscale 4K HDR to 1080P SDR is the way to go as an option? I was looking at this item
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee
> 
> They confirmed it will do 4K HDR to 1080P SDR
> 
> MadVR won't help me with my ShieldTV


what is your goal? why do you want to downscale 4K HDR to 1080P SDR? Just don't use 4K content then?


----------



## Morphx2

reebok said:


> what is your goal? why do you want to downscale 4K HDR to 1080P SDR? Just don't use 4K content then?


I can not get the HDR to look good for me

I find 4K to look better than 1080p though.

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

Morphx2 said:


> reebok said:
> 
> 
> 
> what is your goal? why do you want to downscale 4K HDR to 1080P SDR? Just don't use 4K content then?
> 
> 
> 
> I can not get the HDR to look good for me
> 
> I find 4K to look better than 1080p though.
> 
> Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Try the Harpervision settings in this thread, for HDR. I bump my brightness up about 10 though


----------



## Grayson73

Which of these are you guys running:
4k30 4:4:4
4k60 4:2:0

With the HDFury linker, do you pick one of the above and leave it at that for all sources?


----------



## audionewer

can i put firestick 4k usb into epson 5040 and play it?


----------



## roland6465

audionewer said:


> can i put firestick 4k usb into epson 5040 and play it?



You can, but you will only get video.


----------



## Grayson73

Grayson73 said:


> Which of these are you guys running:
> 4k30 4:4:4
> 4k60 4:2:0
> 
> With the HDFury linker, do you pick one of the above and leave it at that for all sources?


Actually, is it true that you can't run 4k60 4:2:0 HDR? If so, the only option is 4k30 4:4:4 HDR, right?


----------



## reebok

Grayson73 said:


> Actually, is it true that you can't run 4k60 4:2:0 HDR? If so, the only option is 4k30 4:4:4 HDR, right?


https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H713020~faq-0000530-plhc5040ub


----------



## Grayson73

reebok said:


> https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H713020~faq-0000530-plhc5040ub


So you can only get HDR with 4k30 4:2:2? Does this mean the thing to do is get the HDFury Linker and set it to 4k30 4:2:2? I thought some earlier threads said the linker will convert a 4k60 HDR 10-bit to 8-bit and the 5040UB would accept it, but the Epson link says it won't.

My source devices (Xfinity DVR and Roku Ultra) do not let me set chroma, so should I set them to 4k30 or 4k60 with the Linker?

Lastly, I'm reading the old posts and there was talk about WCG SDR being better than HDR. Is that still true, and if so, what would the settings be on the Linker?

Grayson


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> Actually, is it true that you can't run 4k60 4:2:0 HDR? If so, the only option is 4k30 4:4:4 HDR, right?


the entire point of the linker (for me) is to get 4k60 4:2:0 HDR (8bit) for games on Xbox One X. Which it does.


----------



## Grayson73

b_scott said:


> the entire point of the linker (for me) is to get 4k60 4:2:0 HDR (8bit) for games on Xbox One X. Which it does.


Thanks. The Epson link says that you only get SDR for 4k60 4:2:0 8-bit, so I was confused. I will get the linker and set it to output 4k60 4:2:0 HDR 8-bit. I guess this also means that I should set all of my source devices to 4k60.


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> Thanks. The Epson link says that you only get SDR for 4k60 4:2:0 8-bit, so I was confused. I will get the linker and set it to output 4k60 4:2:0 HDR 8-bit. I guess this also means that I should set all of my source devices to 4k60.


It's sort of a weird "tricking" the Epson to accept it. It's HDR colors but I believe it is technically sent SDR BT2020.


----------



## Grayson73

b_scott said:


> It's sort of a weird "tricking" the Epson to accept it. It's HDR colors but I believe it is technically sent SDR BT2020.


Do you get banding? I have an EZCOO that outputs 4k60 4:2:0 HDR 8-bit but I see banding. Wasn't sure if that was an issue with the EZCOO. I also have problems keeping HDR when streaming with Amazon Prime app,..it goes off and on. I'd like to try the Linker to see if the issue is with the EZCOO, and just using the EZCOO as a video switcher to the Linker. Source devices > EZCOO (passthrough) > Linker > Projector


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> Do you get banding? I have an EZCOO that outputs 4k60 4:2:0 HDR 8-bit but I see banding. Wasn't sure if that was an issue with the EZCOO. I also have problems keeping HDR when streaming with Amazon Prime app,..it goes off and on. I'd like to try the Linker to see if the issue is with the EZCOO.


I haven't tested it enough to notice, but I only use my X1X for games, so I don't think it would be too noticeable on those. I use my Panasonic 820 for bluray or my Shield TV for Plex/Netflix/etc.


----------



## Grayson73

b_scott said:


> I haven't tested it enough to notice, but I only use my X1X for games, so I don't think it would be too noticeable on those. I use my Panasonic 820 for bluray or my Shield TV for Plex/Netflix/etc.


Your Shield TV isn't going through the Linker? Are you able to get 4k60 HDR 8-bit through the Shield? If not, what are you sending to the 5040UB?


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> Your Shield TV isn't going through the Linker? Are you able to get 4k60 HDR 8-bit through the Shield? If not, what are you sending to the 5040UB?


my linker wasn't passing HDR through when it was in the chain after the AVR. I think it's an Onkyo issue. However I just wanted it for my Xbox for games (PS4 passes 8 bit HDR) so I just stuck with that. Also with my Shield it took FOREVER when switching resolutions on Shield, to re-handshake. The linker isn't perfect.... but it gets me HDR gaming on Xbox.


----------



## Grayson73

b_scott said:


> my linker wasn't passing HDR through when it was in the chain after the AVR. I think it's an Onkyo issue. However I just wanted it for my Xbox for games (PS4 passes 8 bit HDR) so I just stuck with that. Also with my Shield it took FOREVER when switching resolutions on Shield, to re-handshake. The linker isn't perfect.... but it gets me HDR gaming on Xbox.


I see. So you're running 4k60 SDR for Netflix/Amazon Prime with the Shield? I'd like to get 4k60 HDR 8-bit for Netflix/Amazon Prime and thought the Shield could do it, but I guess I need the Linker. Source devices > EZCOO switcher (pass through) > Linker > 5040UB. I hope this works.


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> I see. So you're running 4k60 SDR for Netflix/Amazon Prime with the Shield? I'd like to get 4k60 HDR 8-bit for Netflix/Amazon Prime and thought the Shield could do it, but I guess I need the Linker. Source devices > EZCOO switcher (pass through) > Linker > 5040UB. I hope this works.


no I'm running HDR. The Epson accepts it. The problem is that the Xbox won't allow sending 8 bit HDR for gaming so it just refuses. So the Linker tricks it into sending 10 bit and then the linker just downconverts to 8 bit. I don't know why the Xbox will do 8 bit HDR for movies but not for gaming, but that's the case.

HDR movie/show > Shield TV or game console or Panasonic 820 > Epson

I switch my picture settings to Harpervision, brightness +10 over original settings. Here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-445.html#post58376282

SDR movie/show > Shield TV or game console or Panasonic 820 > Epson

I switch to the SDR 2.4 fl20 settings here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...projector-calibration-6040ub-second-look.html

Only difference with the Xbox is it's running through the Linker.


----------



## srauly

Well, I just bought my official refurb 5040ub in late March, but I already have to part ways with her as we're in the process of moving and the new home layout won't accommodate a projector. Any suggestions on how best to sell it and how much I should be looking to get for it?

I've sold via ebay in the past but it seems like I only hear horror stories about it these days. I've bought/sold via Craigslist and bought via Facebook Marketplace and probably prefer that last option the best, but it limits me to local buyers (which isn't necessarily bad since this projector is so big...and I also have a very large pull-down screen that I need to sell that would be a real nightmare to ship).


----------



## Grayson73

srauly said:


> Well, I just bought my official refurb 5040ub in late March, but I already have to part ways with her as we're in the process of moving and the new home layout won't accommodate a projector. Any suggestions on how best to sell it and how much I should be looking to get for it?
> 
> I've sold via ebay in the past but it seems like I only hear horror stories about it these days. I've bought/sold via Craigslist and bought via Facebook Marketplace and probably prefer that last option the best, but it limits me to local buyers (which isn't necessarily bad since this projector is so big...and I also have a very large pull-down screen that I need to sell that would be a real nightmare to ship).


I'd try FB Marketplace and Ebay (local pickup only) first, then Craigslist. However, if you're in a hurry and need to ship, I'd do Ebay since they handle payment. There's a classified section on avsforum as well. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/218-display-devices/


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Hey folks... is there anything like HarperVision for the 4000? I'm shopping and thinking I'd be happy with the 4000 since the 5040ub refurbs aren't in stock right now. I was happy with my 3000 prior to my current BenQ and I've never been thrilled with its black levels. 

Also, can the 5040ub/4000 zoom 4:3 letterbox over HDMI? And any resolution caps if it can? I do have a few LDs I like to toss in from time to time for nostalgia and my SR6011 scales them decently but won't do zoom for 4:3 letterbox (but will output my choice of 480p/720p/1080p and 4:3/16:9).


----------



## b_scott

Does anyone have movie settings for the 5040 where they can’t or can barely see black bars? I have a white milliskin spandex screen which I believe is .7 gain. I see the bars in a fully light controlled room. Using harpervision for HDR


----------



## vestaviascott

I just picked up a preowned 5040ub from Facebook Marketplace advertised as needing a new lamp. However, when I power it up to observe the light patterns, it has the blinking blue/orange status/lamp lights and no power light, according to the online manual the Status turns out to be:



> Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help


When I first turn it on, the power light is steady blue and the status light is blinking blue. Then after a bit, the power light goes off, the status light continues blinking blue and the lamp light is blinking orange (my guess is that's why the owner said it needs a lamp replacement)

I've already ordered a new lamp thinking that to be the problem. It should be here by Tuesday and I'll be able to replace it and do a test to see if the projector works as advertised. 

I did confirm that the existing lamp appears to have a broken filament, but according to that blue/orange blink code, I'm not sure that's the only problem. If it were just the bulb blown, shouldn't I just see a solid lamp light or a flashing one but with a blue power light too?


----------



## Morphx2

Hi guys

For those with an nvidia shield and likes to stream 4k HDR with Plex, this device actually outputs it at 1080p bt2020 SDR 12 bit 4:2:2

It looks freaking amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VP37KMB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3WLhFb73638VH

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## DavAbq

sddp said:


> Would this aftermarket bulb work just as good as the OEM or not worth it?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GYRKLCB/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=AMGHNC6DDNZ28&psc=1


I do a lot of Amazon shopping, and always check two things Before spending big bucks. First, analyze reviews with Fakespot. Even though It seems to have passed the Fakespot analysis with a “B” they do say Amazon has monkeyed with 49 reviews so take that for what its worth. Second thing I look at is the reviewers themselves. Click on their avatar and see their 5 star reviews. I am Very suspicious because so many of these reviewers have done exactly 4 reviews. What are the odds? Is that a quantity that makes a reviewer seem legit to analyzers?? One did 13, one 6 and several 1 & 2 reviews. I ask myself, vendor review manipulation? In this case despite Fakespot I would hesitate trusting the 5 star reviews.


----------



## VinnieB

Grayson73 said:


> Do you get banding? I have an EZCOO that outputs 4k60 4:2:0 HDR 8-bit but I see banding. Wasn't sure if that was an issue with the EZCOO. I also have problems keeping HDR when streaming with Amazon Prime app,..it goes off and on. I'd like to try the Linker to see if the issue is with the EZCOO, and just using the EZCOO as a video switcher to the Linker. Source devices > EZCOO (passthrough) > Linker > Projector


I have both the EZCOO and Linker. I originally bought the EZCOO because it supported Freesync, and it did work to a point. I had an Epson 5030ub and wanted to pass though 4k60 HDR with VRR to my monitor and 1080p60 to my AVR/projector. I also ran into the same issue with HDR going in and out so I can confirm the problem is with the EZCOO.


----------



## Grayson73

VinnieB said:


> I have both the EZCOO and Linker. I originally bought the EZCOO because it supported Freesync, and it did work to a point. I had an Epson 5030ub and wanted to pass though 4k60 HDR with VRR to my monitor and 1080p60 to my AVR/projector. I also ran into the same issue with HDR going in and out so I can confirm the problem is with the EZCOO.


Thanks! Do you know if there is a list of Linker settings somewhere for the 5040UB?


----------



## bigdad56

So I was trying to play some 3D content from my external hard drive this weekend on my 5040 and my projector wouldn't recognize the 3D content and the 3D button wouldn't do anything. When I pop a 3D bluray in, it recognizes it fine and I can sink up my glasses no problem, but when trying to play it through my computer or xbox 1 it doesn't recognize it. I was using VLC on both the xbox and pc. Has anyone ran into this problem? Surprisingly there is little on the internet about it.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## noob00224

bigdad56 said:


> So I was trying to play some 3D content from my external hard drive this weekend on my 5040 and my projector wouldn't recognize the 3D content and the 3D button wouldn't do anything. When I pop a 3D bluray in, it recognizes it fine and I can sink up my glasses no problem, but when trying to play it through my computer or xbox 1 it doesn't recognize it. I was using VLC on both the xbox and pc. Has anyone ran into this problem? Surprisingly there is little on the internet about it.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Other than the 3D bluray, are the other 3D types SBS or TAB?
Not sure if VLC supports 3D frame packing on PC.


----------



## Morphx2

bigdad56 said:


> So I was trying to play some 3D content from my external hard drive this weekend on my 5040 and my projector wouldn't recognize the 3D content and the 3D button wouldn't do anything. When I pop a 3D bluray in, it recognizes it fine and I can sink up my glasses no problem, but when trying to play it through my computer or xbox 1 it doesn't recognize it. I was using VLC on both the xbox and pc. Has anyone ran into this problem? Surprisingly there is little on the internet about it.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Using shield, VLC player my 3D rips fine. I have to manually turn it on 3D mode on the projector though. Then it's fine

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## bigdad56

I have both sbs and tab files. Only tried one sbs file though as I was experimenting with my new epson. Just got it about two weeks ago. It's odd the 3D button when pushed says "option not available" or something of that nature. I play the same files on my Samsung TV and switch it to side by side and it works fine both on the pc and xbox with vlc although VLC on the xbox is a bit glitchy. I read somewhere that maybe the epson was recognizing a 4k signal and since the 3d files are only 1080 that it wouldn't offer it when the button was pushed. I changed my computer to 1920x1080 output though and still the same.

Morphx2 are you using a pc, I'm not sure what your referencing when you say shield? 

I'm at the point where I might have to call epson and see what they say. Also when I go to the home menu the 3D settings area is grayed out, which makes me wonder if it does have something to do with the input resolution...


----------



## Morphx2

bigdad56 said:


> I have both sbs and tab files. Only tried one sbs file though as I was experimenting with my new epson. Just got it about two weeks ago. It's odd the 3D button when pushed says "option not available" or something of that nature. I play the same files on my Samsung TV and switch it to side by side and it works fine both on the pc and xbox with vlc although VLC on the xbox is a bit glitchy. I read somewhere that maybe the epson was recognizing a 4k signal and since the 3d files are only 1080 that it wouldn't offer it when the button was pushed. I changed my computer to 1920x1080 output though and still the same.
> 
> Morphx2 are you using a pc, I'm not sure what your referencing when you say shield?
> 
> I'm at the point where I might have to call epson and see what they say. Also when I go to the home menu the 3D settings area is grayed out, which makes me wonder if it does have something to do with the input resolution...


The Nvidia Shield is a Android TV device. Are you playing it in 1080p? It has to be that mode or it will not work. Kodi automatically changes resolution (it was making my 3D movies 4K) and that is why I could not get it to play in Kodi until I turned off the automatic resolution changer so it stayed in 1080p. But VLC was playing them fine.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I know it's probably been explained but with this thread approaching 1000 pages, can someone please explain to me the benefit of the Panasonic UB420 and HDR Optimizer with an Epson 10.2gbps / 4k24 4:2:2 HDR limited projector? Both for UHD discs and Netflix/Prime? I have an Epson 4000 on the way and I'm trying to weigh the benefit of picking up a UB420 to replace my Sony X800 for UHD discs as well as for Netflix/Prime over my 2017 Shield TV Pro.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Stephen Hopkins said:


> I know it's probably been explained but with this thread approaching 1000 pages, can someone please explain to me the benefit of the Panasonic UB420 and HDR Optimizer with an Epson 10.2gbps / 4k24 4:2:2 HDR limited projector? Both for UHD discs and Netflix/Prime? I have an Epson 4000 on the way and I'm trying to weigh the benefit of picking up a UB420 to replace my Sony X800 for UHD discs as well as for Netflix/Prime over my 2017 Shield TV Pro.


The optimizer on the UB420 will tone map HDR for the Epson amazingly and provide a lot of options to bring out a great HDR picture. There isn't really another player that can do what this does at the moment to my knowledge. To be honest though, this is really just pertaining to 4k discs. I (& many) have found the streaming apps to be pretty unusable. I wish they were great as I'd love to use the optimizer with Netflix/Prime also however they aren't what this player was designed for. I use the UB420 for discs and I bought a Shield TV Pro for streaming apps as I can use frame rate match and can finally watch Netflix 4K HDR @ 24 frames. 

Hope that helps!


----------



## Grayson73

VinnieB said:


> I have both the EZCOO and Linker. I originally bought the EZCOO because it supported Freesync, and it did work to a point. I had an Epson 5030ub and wanted to pass though 4k60 HDR with VRR to my monitor and 1080p60 to my AVR/projector. I also ran into the same issue with HDR going in and out so I can confirm the problem is with the EZCOO.


I set the EZCOO switcher to passthrough mode, connected it to the HDFURY linker, and no more banding! This is my signal chain:

Sources > EZCOO switcher > HDFury Linker > 5040UB

My sources are Xfinity X1 DVR (XG1v4), Roku Ultra, and PS3.


----------



## bigdad56

I'll try this out and let you know if it helps. Pretty sure it will!


----------



## Morphx2

I got the ezcoo also for HDR to SDR. At first it didn't work, then I tried other resolution choices and finally got it to work. And it Works brilliantly. I assume it is similar to the Panasonic players with the HDR to SDR mode, but I can use it for all my 4K backups too. Brought new life to my projector and myself 

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## blastermaster

Brett, My Shield has been sitting upstairs being unused as I had been using it for just games. I'll have to bring it down to my HT and hook it up. Does it makes Netflix HDR look pretty good? How to you frame rate match the Shield? Cheers


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Brettmckinney said:


> To be honest though, this is really just pertaining to 4k discs. I (& many) have found the streaming apps to be pretty unusable. I wish they were great as I'd love to use the optimizer with Netflix/Prime also however they aren't what this player was designed for. I use the UB420 for discs and I bought a Shield TV Pro for streaming apps as I can use frame rate match and can finally watch Netflix 4K HDR @ 24 frames.


My main thought process for possibly using the UB420 for Netflix and Prime would be for the HDR Optimizer and Atmos audio on Netflix. Right now I can either get Netflix HDR from the Shield TV Pro 2017 or Atmos from my XBox One (the original 1080p only)... but not both at the same time. Is it just a sluggish UI or are there problems with playback? I'd be buying it as a disc player first-and-foremost, but just trying to understand the streaming capabilities as well. Thanks!


----------



## vestaviascott

Got the replacement bulb and it didn't help. Still get the same blink pattern pointing to "internal projector error". Observing the lamp with the lamp cover off during startup (shimmed door switch), there is no apparent attempt to strike the lamp. I hear nothing other than the fans blowing quietly.

After about 4 minutes of trying to boot, the shutter closes, the fans go into high speed and the blink pattern becomes flashing status (blue) and flashing lamp (orange) and power light off.

Any help much appreciated.


----------



## ChrisRex

Problem with yellow lines!
Hello all. I have started getting a yellow line, 98 percent of the time in a straight line vertically towards the left. Happens even without any input.
Called Epson support and they theorize an Optical Engine problem. 
They gave me a list of service centers all of which would require mailing.
Has anyone had a similar issue? Do you know if there are optical engine replacement parts available?


----------



## Shawn Kelly

Anamorphic for 6040/6050

Thanks to those who over the past few weeks expressed an interest in a new anamorphic option for the 6040/6050. Based on the feedback we are exploring a custom lens model specifically for this projector. In the meantime, we are continuing to poll the market interest by clearing out the older, larger Paladin lens model that fits with the Panamorph mounting holes in these projectors so that is a near term solution. If interested, please take additional questions to the Panamorph vendor forum. We will be using that forum as a primary means to gauge AVS Forum interest in the new lens development as well.


----------



## kklarson

kklarson said:


> I checked out out my Tivo Stream 4K and it is indeed able to output 4K 60Hz + 4:2:0 8-bit HDR (see attachment).
> 
> Looking at Netflix with the Tivo Stream 4K, some programs that are both 4K and HDR are tagged as Ultra HD 4K or as HDR but not both. Does Netflix ever show both the Ultra HD 4K and HDR tags for any program?
> 
> At least Tivo acknowledges the Dolby Atmos problem with Netflix and plan to fix it: " Dolby Atmos may not display on Netflix. We are aware of this issue. We are expecting a fix on an upcoming software update." (https://tivoidp.tivo.com/tivoCommunitySupport/s/article/Dolby-Atmos-on-TiVo-Stream-4K) The Tivo Stream 4K might turn out to be the device that will give me 4K and HDR with the 5040UB plus Dolby Atmos.


An update for anyone else like me who is looking for device options for something that will do 4K + HDR + Atmos from Netflix with the 5040UB: I just got an update on my Tivo Stream 4K that enabled Atmos from Netflix. I can confirm that the Tivo Stream 4K now checks all those boxes.

On a down note, my brand new PC with an i5-9400 and UHD 630 graphics does not think the 5040UB supports 4K @ 60Hz or HDR. My very old PC still has no trouble with it.


----------



## Grayson73

Grayson73 said:


> I set the EZCOO switcher to passthrough mode, connected it to the HDFURY linker, and no more banding! This is my signal chain:
> 
> Sources > EZCOO switcher > HDFury Linker > 5040UB
> 
> My sources are Xfinity X1 DVR (XG1v4), Roku Ultra, and PS3.


I spoke too soon. I still see banding on brown/dark brown scenes and a pink tint on white with the Hdfury Linker. I tried both Roku Ultra and Xfinity DVR direct. Is everyone using the Hdfury Linker experiencing this?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

kklarson said:


> An update for anyone else like me who is looking for device options for something that will do 4K + HDR + Atmos from Netflix with the 5040UB: I just got an update on my Tivo Stream 4K that enabled Atmos from Netflix. I can confirm that the Tivo Stream 4K now checks all those boxes.


Thanks for the heads up... I may pick one up to play with in addition to my Shield TV Pro 2017 (no Netflix Atmos, and I'm in the camp of people not getting Disney+ Atmos as well)... though I'm still leaning towards waiting for a Google Sabrina (whatever then name it.. should check the same boxes and have Android 10/11 with YTTV and Nest Hello integration). I may move the Shield to the bedroom where Atmos isn't needed (and it can continue its Plex Server duties) and leave the Tivo Stream or Sabrina in the theater. 

Can you comment on whether the Tivo Stream has any UI performance issues when outputting 4K24 like the Shields do?


----------



## kklarson

Stephen Hopkins said:


> Thanks for the heads up... I may pick one up to play with in addition to my Shield TV Pro 2017 (no Netflix Atmos, and I'm in the camp of people not getting Disney+ Atmos as well)... though I'm still leaning towards waiting for a Google Sabrina (whatever then name it.. should check the same boxes and have Android 10/11 with YTTV and Nest Hello integration). I may move the Shield to the bedroom where Atmos isn't needed (and it can continue its Plex Server duties) and leave the Tivo Stream or Sabrina in the theater.
> 
> Can you comment on whether the Tivo Stream has any UI performance issues when outputting 4K24 like the Shields do?


I've read complaints about it but haven't experienced it myself. It seems like sometimes the remote goes to sleep, but it comes back; not sure if that's the same problem. When I first got it, there were issues with getting a blank screen when pressing the Home/O button, but that's been fixed. I watched Netflix in 4K HDR and Atmos with it last night with no problems. I found a semi-official announcement about the update here:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/Tivo/comments/i0xuz4


----------



## vikes88

kklarson said:


> An update for anyone else like me who is looking for device options for something that will do 4K + HDR + Atmos from Netflix with the 5040UB: I just got an update on my Tivo Stream 4K that enabled Atmos from Netflix. I can confirm that the Tivo Stream 4K now checks all those boxes.
> 
> On a down note, my brand new PC with an i5-9400 and UHD 630 graphics does not think the 5040UB supports 4K @ 60Hz or HDR. My very old PC still has no trouble with it.


2 questions:
1. I can't figure out how to search a thread now with the forum change.

2. I just ordered an atmos receiver and I want a streaming device that can do netflix atmos and has an ethernet port (wifi wont work for me). In case my internet improves It would also be nice if it did 4k HDR that is compatible with the 5040ub. Nvdia Shield tv pro vs Apple 4k? Other option?


----------



## DerKonig

Kyle_Larson said:


> Just got home and confirmed roku ultra does send out 4k hdr at 12bit 4:2:2 with 24 fps through youtube app.
> 
> Netflix app no hdr, just 4k with 12bit 4:2:2. Still looks amazing, but not hdr.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


How were you able to have 12 bit in roku?


----------



## pbc

Another 5050 vs 5040 post. So have a chance to get the 5040 refurb at less than half a new 5050. Will probably use it 40% streaming, 40% TV, 20% gaming (my son anyhow). I plan on getting him a new Xbox or PS5 when they come out.

Okay, maybe 10% of the time bluray though the last time I watched a disc on my OLED was 2 years ago. 

I keep thinking HDMI 2.1 must be around the corner for many of these projectors, and not sure I want to spend 100% more if in 2 years time a newer model comes out with 2.1 and/or my son's gaming would be greatly enhanced with the 5050 vs the 5040.

Seems HDR is also better on the 5050, or was when it first came out based on all the 5040 vs 5050 comparisons I've read. Most of those are several months old, so not sure if the 5040 has had some updates that get it closer in that regard to the 5050?


----------



## audionewer

do u guys know if it support 12bit color depth for DV or not? is there anyway to tell if it support DV or not?

DV = 12bit color and hdr 10 = 10bit color depth


----------



## kklarson

audionewer said:


> do u guys know if it support 12bit color depth for DV or not? is there anyway to tell if it support DV or not?
> 
> DV = 12bit color and hdr 10 = 10bit color depth


It does NOT support Dolby Vision.


----------



## blastermaster

I was going through some of my movies and realized how much I actually enjoy 3D, but I haven't gotten any glasses for my 6040 yet. Any suggestions for a guy who also wears glasses? I don't want the cheapest necessarily, but they don't need to be dipped in gold, either. Cheers


----------



## Morphx2

blastermaster said:


> I was going through some of my movies and realized how much I actually enjoy 3D, but I haven't gotten any glasses for my 6040 yet. Any suggestions for a guy who also wears glasses? I don't want the cheapest necessarily, but they don't need to be dipped in gold, either. Cheers


Try the official Epson ones. Gotta order from China though so takes a while

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Of course the Epsons are the best. The next best are the ValueViews, but they don't make them anymore

So, the ones you want are from Amazon 



Amazon.com



I bought 2 pair and they work perfectly.


----------



## blastermaster

Thanks, Inspector! I will get those.


----------



## roland6465

kklarson said:


> It does NOT support Dolby Vision.


No home projectors do DV.


----------



## noob00224

roland6465 said:


> No home projectors do DV.


I think there is only one, ChiQ A5U.


----------



## Grayson73

Morphx2 said:


> Try the official Epson ones. Gotta order from China though so takes a while
> 
> Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


Do you have a link?


----------



## blake18

Did Epson fix the power supply issues in the 5040ub? If so, how do we know which ones are good to go?


----------



## by96

blake18 said:


> Did Epson fix the power supply issues in the 5040ub? If so, how do we know which ones are good to go?


I am a new owner of a barely used 5040UB and am now just learning about this issue. I am curious to know if there is a way to check when a projector was built by the serial number and whether more recent ones are less likely to have the problem. My serial number comes back with a warranty still good until April 2021, so I assume mine was built in early 2019, but that is just a guess. Fortunately, I did get a Squaretrade warranty with mine, assuming Epson would not honor a second-owner claim.


----------



## mcallister

Has anyone found out a way to get red of the green dust blobs? I’ve tried the high altitude/high lamp truck with no luck, is there something else I can try?


----------



## Grayson73

My HDMI1 port stopped working on my first refurb after a few weeks and now it stopped working after a few weeks in my second refurb. Is this a common problem, and why does it keep happening?


----------



## Unkabin

I am re-posting this here from another sub for him in hopes of finding an answer:

I have searched the forum for a definitive answer on this, but I've read conflicting information about the capabilities of these Epson models—5040, 4000, 4010—with their 10bit 1.4HDMI inputs and HDR capabilities, specifically when streaming. I don't play Blu-ray; I only stream from an Apple TV--Netflix, Amazon, mostly.

A) I have read that these projectors will not do HDR at 4K on streaming services because even though streaming content may present at 24fps, Netflix, for example, requires a 60fps signal...or something like that.

B) Alternately, I've heard that if I were to set the ATV to "match frame rate" and to "match range" it would indeed play 4K HDR from streaming services such as Netflix and Amazon.

Can someone set me straight?


----------



## moostache2

mcallister said:


> Has anyone found out a way to get red of the green dust blobs? I’ve tried the high altitude/high lamp truck with no luck, is there something else I can try?


Are the green blobs definitely dust blobs or can they be something else as well?

I bought a 6040UB refurb and had to return it after just 6 hours of use due to an enormously distracting green smudge on the screen...looked like a thumbprint to me, but it was persistent across all inputs and really made the unit watchable due to that "smudge" appearing in the center of the image.


----------



## blastermaster

I've been fortunate to not have any dust blobs so far, but that gets me wondering...how often do you all clean the filter? I've had mine for almost a few months and I think it's time do clean it despite the projector not giving me the notice to clean it. Thoughts?


----------



## mcallister

I had no issues with the blobs for two years and had a water pipe break and destroy the ceiling in my dedicated/soundproof room. Since getting everything repaired and back to working it has had the blobs. As far as I know the projector got no water on it.


----------



## MississippiMan

blastermaster said:


> I've been fortunate to not have any dust blobs so far, but that gets me wondering...how often do you all clean the filter? I've had mine for almost a few months and I think it's time do clean it despite the projector not giving me the notice to clean it. Thoughts?


Clean the filter every 3 months if the PJ is under regular use....monthly if you are a smoker.


----------



## AVenthusiastNoob

MississippiMan said:


> Clean the filter every 3 months if the PJ is under regular use....monthly if you are a smoker.


Is there a guide anywhere as to how to remove the filter, how to clean it properly, etc?? TIA!

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## avtoronto

Unkabin said:


> I am re-posting this here from another sub for him in hopes of finding an answer:
> 
> I have searched the forum for a definitive answer on this, but I've read conflicting information about the capabilities of these Epson models—5040, 4000, 4010—with their 10bit 1.4HDMI inputs and HDR capabilities, specifically when streaming. I don't play Blu-ray; I only stream from an Apple TV--Netflix, Amazon, mostly.
> 
> A) I have read that these projectors will not do HDR at 4K on streaming services because even though streaming content may present at 24fps, Netflix, for example, requires a 60fps signal...or something like that.
> 
> B) Alternately, I've heard that if I were to set the ATV to "match frame rate" and to "match range" it would indeed play 4K HDR from streaming services such as Netflix and Amazon.
> 
> Can someone set me straight?





Unkabin said:


> I am re-posting this here from another sub for him in hopes of finding an answer:
> 
> I have searched the forum for a definitive answer on this, but I've read conflicting information about the capabilities of these Epson models—5040, 4000, 4010—with their 10bit 1.4HDMI inputs and HDR capabilities, specifically when streaming. I don't play Blu-ray; I only stream from an Apple TV--Netflix, Amazon, mostly.
> 
> A) I have read that these projectors will not do HDR at 4K on streaming services because even though streaming content may present at 24fps, Netflix, for example, requires a 60fps signal...or something like that.
> 
> B) Alternately, I've heard that if I were to set the ATV to "match frame rate" and to "match range" it would indeed play 4K HDR from streaming services such as Netflix and Amazon.
> 
> Can someone set me straight?


B) is correct. The ATV 4K will stream HDR, wide colour, 4K from Netflix and Prime.


----------



## Unkabin

avtoronto said:


> B) is correct. The ATV 4K will stream HDR, wide colour, 4K from Netflix and Prime.


Thank you for your exact answer!


----------



## b_scott

d


roland6465 said:


> No home projectors do DV.


What I don't understand is why the source can't just decode DV and send as raw color information, same as things like PCM does for audio.


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> d
> 
> What I don't understand is why the source can't just decode DV and send as raw color information, same as things like PCM does for audio.


That is more or less how “Player Led Dolby Vision” or “Low Latency Dolby Vision” (LLDV) works - the source (UHD player or streamlining device) processes the DV signal and its dynamic metadata, and sends something the display can handle. People have been “exploiting” this to play DV on projectors and HDR10 displays, but you need an HD Fury device that will present a fake LLDV EDID to the source.
There is an entire thread on the forum discussing this:








Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? This is a HDFury DV LLDV EDID exploit of the Dolby Vision Profile 5 layer included in the DV spec for display manufacturers and models like the Sony A1 OLED. This thread is duplicating Dave's experience using the HDFury Vertex...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Dominic Chan

avtoronto said:


> B) is correct. The ATV 4K will stream HDR, wide colour, 4K from Netflix and Prime.


ATV 4K can play movies at their native frame rate of 24 FPS. However, I’m not sure how that works for TV shows that are native 60 FPS.


----------



## Grayson73

What surge protectors / UPS are you guys plugging your projectors into?


----------



## olegg

Grayson73 said:


> What surge protectors / UPS are you guys plugging your projectors into?


CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD UPS, works really well for almost 3 years with no battery swap yet ...


----------



## Tibor Makai

Olegg the PJ is on the ceiling?


----------



## MississippiMan

AVenthusiastNoob said:


> Is there a guide anywhere as to how to remove the filter, how to clean it properly, etc?? TIA!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


It slides right out of the Casing....and you carefully back rinse it under a stream of water. Let dry and replace.

Caveman easy.............


----------



## by96

Any help would be appreciated. I am using my 5040UB for the first time. Twice now, I have received an error message about a problem with the auto iris and to contact Epson. I unplug the PJ and when I plug it back in and turn it on, it seems fine. I bought my PJ used, but it is still under warranty with Epson, and I have a Squaretrade warranty too. 

Any ideas? I am very concerned.


----------



## bluer101

Grayson73 said:


> What surge protectors / UPS are you guys plugging your projectors into?


Mine is plugged into a Belkin Pureav battery backup.


----------



## sleepingatsea

I don't have a UPS backup for my projector and I do live in an area very prone to outages. How important is it or are these things pretty robust these days?


----------



## VinnieB

Grayson73 said:


> What surge protectors / UPS are you guys plugging your projectors into?


I'm using the APC J25B. I bought a 25' PC power supply cord and ran the projector to it. For battery backup I have the Xbox, projector, gaming monitor, router, HDFury and Amazon FireStick. With everything running, I get about 20-25 minutes on battery.


----------



## Grayson73

olegg said:


> CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD UPS, works really well for almost 3 years with no battery swap yet ...


Thanks, I ordered that to replace my current UPS.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ 

I'm also getting this whole house surge protector:
https://www.amazon.com/CHSPT2ULTRA-Ultimate-Protection-Length-Height/dp/B01AQAKRSS 

I hope that fixes things!


----------



## Grayson73

@bluer101 @VinnieB Interesting. I wonder how the Belkine PureAV and APC J25B stack up against the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD.


----------



## VinnieB

Grayson73 said:


> @bluer101 @VinnieB Interesting. I wonder how the Belkine PureAV and APC J25B stack up against the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD.


No Idea. I'm pretty sure the PureAV is considered high end. I'm happy with the J25B, does the job.


----------



## Grayson73

Any opinions on these projector mounts?

QualGear Pro-AV QG-KIT-CA-3IN-W:


https://www.amazon.com/QualGear-QG-KIT-CA-3IN-W-Projector-Accessory-Ceiling/dp/B01B1JFMPG/



Peerless-AV PRG-UNV








Amazon.com: Peerless-AV PRG-UNV: Precision Gear Projector Mount for Multimedia Projectors up to 50lb (22kg) in Black : Electronics


Buy Peerless-AV PRG-UNV: Precision Gear Projector Mount for Multimedia Projectors up to 50lb (22kg) in Black: Projector Mounts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## bluer101

Grayson73 said:


> @bluer101 @VinnieB Interesting. I wonder how the Belkine PureAV and APC J25B stack up against the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD.





VinnieB said:


> No Idea. I'm pretty sure the PureAV is considered high end. I'm happy with the J25B, does the job.


When I bought both my Pure Av units when they were in direct competition with monster power centers. The battery back up powers all my video items in the theater and the power center does all my audio items.


----------



## jbnpaul

Grayson73 said:


> Any opinions on these projector mounts?
> 
> QualGear Pro-AV QG-KIT-CA-3IN-W:
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/QualGear-QG-KIT-CA-3IN-W-Projector-Accessory-Ceiling/dp/B01B1JFMPG/
> 
> 
> 
> Peerless-AV PRG-UNV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Peerless-AV PRG-UNV: Precision Gear Projector Mount for Multimedia Projectors up to 50lb (22kg) in Black : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Peerless-AV PRG-UNV: Precision Gear Projector Mount for Multimedia Projectors up to 50lb (22kg) in Black: Projector Mounts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


I use peerless. It is amazing.
lets you do micro adjustment using the gears. 

My screen alignment is not perfect ( my fault - didn’t align the screws right). It was extremely easy to adjust the projector using the gears to align with the screen.
And haven’t moved a bit in over a year.

Not sure if it would even be possible to do these sort of adjustment with a regular mount especially with a heavy projector like 5040.


----------



## VinnieB

Grayson73 said:


> Any opinions on these projector mounts?
> 
> QualGear Pro-AV QG-KIT-CA-3IN-W:
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/QualGear-QG-KIT-CA-3IN-W-Projector-Accessory-Ceiling/dp/B01B1JFMPG/
> 
> 
> 
> Peerless-AV PRG-UNV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Peerless-AV PRG-UNV: Precision Gear Projector Mount for Multimedia Projectors up to 50lb (22kg) in Black : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Peerless-AV PRG-UNV: Precision Gear Projector Mount for Multimedia Projectors up to 50lb (22kg) in Black: Projector Mounts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


This is actually pretty funny, I bought the QualGear about a year ago then recently bought the Peerless. Which worked out good, because I just used the ceiling mount and arm from the QualGear and used the Peerless projector mount with it. 

Love the Peerless.


----------



## Grayson73

@jbnpaul @VinnieB Thanks, ordered the Peerless!


----------



## blastermaster

So I got my 3D glasses, synced them up and threw in a few 3D movies (Prometheus, Final Destination 3D, RP1) to test it out. I'll be honest, I liked the 3D of my old Optoma DLP better. It's a bit hard to describe, but it just seemed like the 3D on the Epson was a bit more flat. It still looks pretty good, and the popout effects in Final Destination were very evident, but the depth (looking through a window) effect seemed better on my DLP. Anyone else feel the same?


----------



## jebo_4jc

I have a dedicated outlet near my 5040 so I have mine plugged into a small Tripp-Lite power conditioner








Isobar Surge Protector, 2 Outlet, 1410 Joules, Diagnostic LED | Eaton


Premium 2-outlet surge protector provides protection for sensitive electronics and computer peripherals against power surges, spikes and line noise.




www.tripplite.com


----------



## VinnieB

blastermaster said:


> So I got my 3D glasses, synced them up and threw in a few 3D movies (Prometheus, Final Destination 3D, RP1) to test it out. I'll be honest, I liked the 3D of my old Optoma DLP better. It's a bit hard to describe, but it just seemed like the 3D on the Epson was a bit more flat. It still looks pretty good, and the popout effects in Final Destination were very evident, but the depth (looking through a window) effect seemed better on my DLP. Anyone else feel the same?


Have you messed around with any of the 3D settings or left them as default?


----------



## jebo_4jc

I'm working on building my theater room. I picked up the 5040 refurbished. I'm working on dialing it in. 

I apologize for asking such a noobish question, but I can't figure out how to search this thread for the life of me in the new forum format. What are the current recommended settings for best PQ? I plan to tweak myself, but wanted to know where to start. 

Thanks!


----------



## Grayson73

jebo_4jc said:


> I'm working on building my theater room. I picked up the 5040 refurbished. I'm working on dialing it in.
> 
> I apologize for asking such a noobish question, but I can't figure out how to search this thread for the life of me in the new forum format. What are the current recommended settings for best PQ? I plan to tweak myself, but wanted to know where to start.
> 
> Thanks!


I use Adam's here - Projector Calibration (6040UB) - Second Look


----------



## inspector

blastermaster said:


> So I got my 3D glasses, synced them up and threw in a few 3D movies (Prometheus, Final Destination 3D, RP1) to test it out. I'll be honest, I liked the 3D of my old Optoma DLP better. It's a bit hard to describe, but it just seemed like the 3D on the Epson was a bit more flat. It still looks pretty good, and the popout effects in Final Destination were very evident, but the depth (looking through a window) effect seemed better on my DLP. Anyone else feel the same?


If you are using my setting I sent you, all 3D should look fantastic...they do to me. I have a DLP 65 incher in the den and the 3D was good, but who wants to watch 3D on a 65 incher when you can watch it on a 110 inch screen that shows an almost life size picture.


----------



## blastermaster

You know what? I forgot to put those 3D settings to memory because I didn't have glasses at that time. I'll do that tonight and give it another spin.


----------



## avtoronto

Dominic Chan said:


> ATV 4K can play movies at their native frame rate of 24 FPS. However, I’m not sure how that works for TV shows that are native 60 FPS.


Not a problem as long as you set “Match Frame Rate” to on.


----------



## Tibor Makai

1000 pages, wow.


----------



## Crazy Doc

So I picked up a refurb 5040 a few months back and have been testing it in my theater build. I am seeing diagonal lines during bright faster moving scenes from all sources, the lines are at about a 45 degree angle from upper left to lower right. Has anyone else seen this issue? I thought it was normal until last night when I went to a friends house and saw how awesome his 5040 refurb looked even when watching an upscaled 720p movie.

Thanks
Donnie


----------



## marcosphoto

The only thing I see on my BNIB unit is a thin square outline around the whole outside of the image - very strange. I've asked on this forum about it but never got a reply of any kind. It is not a solid colour, more like a reflection of the portion of good image to the inside of it. It does not hit you in the face because it's not a solid colour but seems to be comprised of the same image characteriscs that are displayed on the screen. If you look very closely, it is there all the time and sometimes it's quite noticeable along the top because of the top usually being sky or something light like that. I have a 125" screen, the outline is about maybe 1/2" wide. Nothing diagnonal through the middle of the image like you describe. I want to send it in for inspection, but feel more often than not people are even less happy after their 5040 has been repaired or refurbished. Appears to operate well otherwise.


----------



## marcosphoto

Grayson73 said:


> What surge protectors / UPS are you guys plugging your projectors into?





Brettmckinney said:


> I don't have a UPS backup for my projector and I do live in an area very prone to outages. How important is it or are these things pretty robust these days?


I too live in bad area for brown/blackouts but I also had some problems in my last house. Now I have a Panamax power conditioner on all my theater electronics except the PJ because it's pretty far away from the electronics cabinet. On the PJ I actually placed a very old UPS up in the floor joists, this thing is so old that my father used to have it on the computers when he closed the store in 1990. I put a couple new batteries in it and it appears to work pretty well still. Had a quick brown-out once with it already and the PJ didn't loose a beat. I really wanted to install one because I noticed every time we lost power while it was on - the PJ would go into some sort of safety loop where I couldn't really tell what I was supposed to do next. It would be unresponsive with blipping blue lights and be that way for many minutes. Finally after a frenzy of button pressing it would eventually start to work normally again. Very concerning, didn't like it. Much happier now. My impression of electronics is that they are very delicate to things like this, most electronics do not have an actual power switch anymore and therefore even when off they are on. I've known people that loose electronics to lightning strikes also, so I have a whole home stage 1 surge protector at the panel in addition to stage 3 protections at (like a power strip) at other electronics. Stage 1 panel surge protectors really are not expensive or hard to install - usually cost around $300 to buy. Based on my observations, experiences and assumptions - I think it was a no brainer to go this route. An electrician I know confirms that for the power strips to have any real clamping effect on big surges, they still need a big protector somewhere else as surge protector power strips only usually handle low surge joules often only with a tiny choke and capacitor. The Panamax and UPS's also have more advanced protection built-in so all and all I think I'm pretty safe.


----------



## Stereojeff

Crazy Doc said:


> So I picked up a refurb 5040 a few months back and have been testing it in my theater build. I am seeing diagonal lines during bright faster moving scenes from all sources, the lines are at about a 45 degree angle from upper left to lower right. Has anyone else seen this issue? I thought it was normal until last night when I went to a friends house and saw how awesome his 5040 refurb looked even when watching an upscaled 720p movie.
> 
> Thanks
> Donnie


Sounds like "hum" bars. Please check the grounds to all your components. Often the culprit is the cable input. Try disconnecting components one at a time until the bars go away.

Jeff


----------



## Unkabin

avtoronto said:


> Not a problem as long as you set “Match Frame Rate” to on.


Thanks for the answer. Turns out that’s true for the question I asked, for 24fps, but, as someone else pointed out, it won’t help for the TV shows that are 60fps HDR. I hadn’t though of that, so in the interest of future proofing (and my limited budget), I went with the HC 3800.


----------



## by96

Hello all. I am really hoping I can get some information. I bought a barely used 5040 off eBay but returned it after there seemed to be a problem with the auto iris. I got a full refund, fortunately. I then bought a refurbished 6040 for a couple hundred more but feel much better with the warranty. 

Now to my question. I have been going back through this thread and really want to learn more about the HDFury. I believe people are using the Linker, but not sure if there is another popular product. I have searched for posts on it and read through them, but still would appreciate a basic summary of which it will do for me. I am using a Panasonic 820 and ATV 4k. I know that when I was playing around with the 5040, I had to change the HDR to 24Hz on my ATV, and I know the Linker had something to do with these conversions. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. If anyone knows of specific posts or links I can read, that would be helpful too. Thank you in advance!


----------



## b_scott

Does anyone have a direct link to HDR harpervision settings? My link to them is broken due to the new site. Even Dave Harper’s links no longer work.


----------



## Crazy Doc

Stereojeff said:


> Sounds like "hum" bars. Please check the grounds to all your components. Often the culprit is the cable input. Try disconnecting components one at a time until the bars go away.
> 
> Jeff


So I took my 5040 to my friends house and I get the same issue from his power and his source that looks amazing on his 5040. I will be calling Epson on Monday. Fingers crossed. It's almost like the pixel shift isn't working but I don't know. Thanks for the replies.

Donnie


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> Does anyone have a direct link to HDR harpervision settings? My link to them is broken due to the new site. Even Dave Harper’s links no longer work.


You can still access the old links by deleting the reference to the page number:








Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread


Since I'm considering getting this projector I went to a local AV dealer and had a 3D demo of the 6040 on a Slate .8 screen. I didn't notice any ghosting and thought it looked fantastic. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Any recommendations for Panasonic HDR Optimizer settings? I just got my 420 today and there aren't really clear instructions on how to best apply it to the Epson projectors. Thanks in advance.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Some of the settings will depend on the picture settings you will use on the Epson however first thing is to turn the optimiser on and set the basic luminance to 'projector', this will then set the correct tone mapping. 

If you intend to use the 'digital cinema' mode on the Epson to engage the filter, you could also then tweak the DR setting on the panny which will give you more brightness to offset the decrease in lumens. 

Enjoy! 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I've been using Bright Cinema prior to getting the Panny, I guess I'll just experiment and see what works. Digital Cinema is a bit dim for my tastes due to the filter, but maybe the Panny will make it more usable. I just got it hooked up this afternoon and I have family visiting... daughters/nieces are camped out in the theater right now. I should be able to play with it a little more after everyone leaves tomorrow evening.


----------



## inspector

Stephen Hopkins said:


> Any recommendations for Panasonic HDR Optimizer settings? I just got my 420 today and there aren't really clear instructions on how to best apply it to the Epson projectors. Thanks in advance.


These are my 420 setting I use with my 6040 using NATUAL UHD settings. 


_HDMI_

4K
4K(60p)(4:4:4)
AUTO
AUTO
AUTO ONLY
ON

_ADVANCED_

YcbCr (AUTO)
AUTO(12 bit Priority)
HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
ON
OFF
BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
OFF 
AUTO
AUTO
ON
AUTO

_VIDEO_

AUTO
ON

_AUDIO_

OFF
---
UP TO 96 kHz
SURROUND ENCODED
NORMAL
---
O
OFF

_3D_

AUTO
ORIGINAL
OFF

REMOTE

_HD OPTIMIZER_

STANDARD
+8
0
+4
-4


Good luck!

John

...finally retired and spending time in my dedicated HT!!!

SPARKSPLEX HT - Epson 6040 3D/4K UB Projector; 110" .09 16x9 Dalite HD Progressive Screen; Sammy 3D/4K K8500 (r-free); Panny ub420; 7.2.4. Def Tech speakers, Earthquake P12v2 Subs; Auto Source 100vs Amp; Denon 4300H; MX990 Remote; .


----------



## Grayson73

by96 said:


> Hello all. I am really hoping I can get some information. I bought a barely used 5040 off eBay but returned it after there seemed to be a problem with the auto iris. I got a full refund, fortunately. I then bought a refurbished 6040 for a couple hundred more but feel much better with the warranty.
> 
> Now to my question. I have been going back through this thread and really want to learn more about the HDFury. I believe people are using the Linker, but not sure if there is another popular product. I have searched for posts on it and read through them, but still would appreciate a basic summary of which it will do for me. I am using a Panasonic 820 and ATV 4k. I know that when I was playing around with the 5040, I had to change the HDR to 24Hz on my ATV, and I know the Linker had something to do with these conversions.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. If anyone knows of specific posts or links I can read, that would be helpful too. Thank you in advance!


I'm using the Linker so that my devices (Xfinity DVR and Roku Ultra) can send 4k60 4:4:4 (5040 won't accept) and the Linker converts it to 4k60 4:2:0 which the projector will accept.


----------



## moostache2

Got my replacement on the 6040 refurb in less than a week...absolutely no hassle. This second refurb unit is completely free of the green blob I had on my first.

Coming from my 8 year old HC-8100, I definitely notice the improvements in the picture. I will start tweaking the set up soon, but looking forward to it again. Image "pop" is exactly what I hoped for in this case.


----------



## by96

moostache2 said:


> Got my replacement on the 6040 refurb in less than a week...absolutely no hassle. This second refurb unit is completely free of the green blob I had on my first.
> 
> Coming from my 8 year old HC-8100, I definitely notice the improvements in the picture. I will start tweaking the set up soon, but looking forward to it again. Image "pop" is exactly what I hoped for in this case.


Just got a 6040 refurb yesterday. As for this green blob, does it show up immediately or only after some use?


----------



## VinnieB

I had my nephew take some pics of my basement this past weekend, he's into photography. There's this channel I like to use on YouTube, he makes videos with ink and paint and they look amazing, to show off the colors on the projector and my nephew was impressed with it.

The 2nd pic is the same as the first pic, he just edited it to show the blacks.

Also, I use the Smart YouTube TV app and this guy uploads both in SDR and HDR.


----------



## moostache2

by96 said:


> Just got a 6040 refurb yesterday. As for this green blob, does it show up immediately or only after some use?


The unit I received with that issue was immediately obvious...I don't know about this over time


----------



## pbc

blake18 said:


> Did Epson fix the power supply issues in the 5040ub? If so, how do we know which ones are good to go?


Was this only an issue with the 5040, or also the 6040?

Curious, was the only difference between the 6040 and 5040 the fact that the 6040 came with an extra lamp?


----------



## Tibor Makai

They are the same projector. 6040 has a black case, came with an extra bulb and mount, if I remember correctly and an extra year of warranty.


----------



## pbc

Thx...not worth the $400-$500 difference in refurb pricing than as the refurbs don't come with the extra bulb, mount or extra warranty.


----------



## inspector

The 6040 also comes with a back cable cover. But if those items don't come with the refurb, it's not worth the extra $$$.


----------



## by96

pbc said:


> Thx...not worth the $400-$500 difference in refurb pricing than as the refurbs don't come with the extra bulb, mount or extra warranty.


The refurb 6040s do come with the extra year warranty. I just got one and checked the serial number. The warranty is good until September 2023. But it does not come with the mount or extra bulb. I agree it is not worth much extra cost, but I couldn’t find a refurb 5040.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## by96

inspector said:


> The 6040 also comes with a back cable cover. But if those items don't come with the refurb, it's not worth the extra $$$.


My refurb 6040 did not come with a cable cover. I do prefer the black PJ over the white, and thrilled with the extra year warranty, but I agree, it isn't worth much, if any, over the 5040. As I posted above, I couldn't find a refurb 5040 and got the 6040 at a great price (and it was the last one the dealer had).


----------



## Hondo Seitzinger

by96 said:


> My refurb 6040 did not come with a cable cover. I do prefer the black PJ over the white, and thrilled with the extra year warranty, but I agree, it isn't worth much, if any, over the 5040. As I posted above, I couldn't find a refurb 5040 and got the 6040 at a great price (and it was the last one the dealer had).


I have as 6040 refurb as well. Does anyone know if it's possible to buy a cable cover somewhere? I checked around but didn't turn anything up in my search.


----------



## by96

Hondo Seitzinger said:


> I have as 6040 refurb as well. Does anyone know if it's possible to buy a cable cover somewhere? I checked around but didn't turn anything up in my search.


Honestly, I don't even know what one looks like! Never seen one for sale.


----------



## moostache2

As others have stated, the 6040 and 5040 are essentially the same thing, but availability and timing made my choice of a 6040 for me. I could have gone with a newer model DLP projector, but being very placement limited and specific for using my CIH screen, this was an easy call for me in the end. 

I am very happy with the projector so far...used it last night to watch "True Romance" off of my cable feed, and really enjoyed the Cinescope presentation - which is getting to be more common on the movie channels. So far, it's am very happy with my purchase.


----------



## Azekecse

Hondo Seitzinger said:


> I have as 6040 refurb as well. Does anyone know if it's possible to buy a cable cover somewhere? I checked around but didn't turn anything up in my search.


I would contact Epson directly.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Tibor Makai

I have seen one, but white on the bay, for $25.


----------



## inspector

Tibor Makai said:


> I have seen one, but white on the bay, for $25.


Since the 5040 didn’t come with one, I wonder if it’s a painted white black one or another model being passed off for a real one?


----------



## Tibor Makai

I was wondering about the same thing.


----------



## Tibor Makai

Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UBe Terminal Cover | eBay


Sorry, No Exceptions.



www.ebay.com


----------



## inspector

Tibor Makai said:


> Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UBe Terminal Cover | eBay
> 
> 
> Sorry, No Exceptions.
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com


That is not a rear cable cover for a 5040/6040...buyer beware! I just sent a note to the seller, we'll see what he does.


----------



## jbnpaul

I think it is the back cover for 5040 ube. 
My understanding is it can not be used if hdmi is in use. But only when the wireless adapter is used instead.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## blastermaster

The 6040 also has anamorphic mode which the 5040 lacks. So if you were ever thinking about getting a lens and a 2.35:1 screen, the 6040 is the obvious choice. The extra one year warranty doesn't hurt, either.


----------



## carlb1

If anyone is interested I am selling my Epson 5040. Its a Epson Refurbished unit that i bought in June of 2019 and it works great. It has the original bulb still in it and has about 4500 hours on it. I have a brand new Epson Replacement bulb that came with it when i bought it. It has about 10 months left on the 2 year warranty. I also have two pair of 3d glasses one new and one used a few times.
I really like the projector but we are remodeling and it just wont work well in the new configuration. I am replacing it with a sony x900h 85"
750 for the projector, glasses and new bulb plus whatever the actual shipping is.

Thanks
Carl.


----------



## inspector

jbnpaul said:


> I think it is the back cover for 5040 ube.
> My understanding is it can not be used if hdmi is in use. But only when the wireless adapter is used instead.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think you’re right.


----------



## Grayson73

For those with the HDFury Linker, is the correct preset #2 or #3? It's #3, right?

2. Set 4k30/4k60 presets for a 4K30 deepcolor PJ > 300MHz (e.g Wireless UB/TW Espon) 
[4K30 all -> 4K30 all, 4k60 600MHz -> 4k60 420 300MHz] 

3. Set 4k30/4k60 presets for a 4K30 deepcolor PJ at 300MHz (e.g Wired UB/TW Epson) 
[4k30 8/10/12 -> 4k30 422 12 300, 4k60 600MHz -> 4k60 420 300MHz]


----------



## by96

I just set a Linker up and posted in the Linker thread. I was told #3. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

How accurate/precise should the power/memory lens be in regards to finding a saved position? I've had my refurb 4000 for a couple of weeks now, but just installed my 2.35:1 screen last night. It seems when switching between saved lens positions, it always requires at least 2-5 button presses in any given direction of lens shift and, less often, in zoom to get it back to exactly where it should be. I don't have any drift when the lens is left in place, but it seems switching positions using the memory is always 99.5% but not quite 100% accurate/precise. 

Is this normal, or should I start the Epson Exchange Roulette?


----------



## Dirt9

when making a saved lens positions..make adjustments slowly up to your screen edge in ONE Direction ONLY before saving.
If you over shoot then back up before the save the screen will not go back exactly where you saved it.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Excellent, thanks!


----------



## blastermaster

I just watched The Dark Knight Rises. Of all the movies I've seen so far with this projector, this one to me really showed off how awesome the black levels are on the Epson. If you haven't seen it in a while, give it another spin. What movies do all y'all like for showing off the black levels of this projector? I'm assuming TDK as well, but are there others?


----------



## Dirt9

Have no recommendations but I have noticed a huge difference between movies.some look awesome,others kinda bad,like wonder woman looks way worse than avengers and has worse sound also,


----------



## noob00224

blastermaster said:


> I just watched The Dark Knight Rises. Of all the movies I've seen so far with this projector, this one to me really showed off how awesome the black levels are on the Epson. If you haven't seen it in a while, give it another spin. What movies do all y'all like for showing off the black levels of this projector? I'm assuming TDK as well, but are there others?


Sci Fi, horror, dark movies. Some GoT episodes.
Hunt for Red October.
Alien series.
Interstellar.
The Cave 2005.
Dark City.
Star wars.


----------



## Hotsauce007

Hi, I'm new to this thread. I currently have an Nvidia Shield (2019) and the Epson 5040. What settings should I be use on the Nvidia and on the Epson? As of now, the picture looks a little washed out. I heard that HDR isn't the best with this projector, so I am running SDR. I have the Nvidia set to 4k 12 bit 4:2:2 bt2020 60hz. Is this the correct setting? Should I be setting it to 1080p instead since the Epson does 4k upscaling? My basement is very dark and I'm using a 120 inch silver ticket screen. Is it worth getting the HDfury Linker UHD/HDR HDMI Scaler that I saw mentioned on here? I'm so lost as to what settings to use.


----------



## blake18

Oledurt said:


> On the panny I have dynamic range conversion set to -6 and have also increased the brightness +6 on the panny to offset the darker picture.
> 
> On the Integral I am using mode 10. Projector Info is 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 SDR...Enjoy.
> 
> Here are my settings.
> 
> Digital Cinema Mode
> 
> Brightness 48
> Contrast 70
> Color Saturation 50
> Tint 50
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> [Customized]
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 50
> Gain G 50
> Gain B 41
> 
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris High Speed
> 
> Gamma (Left to Right)
> -1,0,0,-2,-4,-8,-11,-8,-5
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> R 50,44,66
> G 97,77,44
> B 66,63,50
> C 62,52,60
> M 78,58,58
> Y 50,45,63
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI Video Range Auto
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto
> Image Processing Fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Why is the contrast set so high?


----------



## sleepingatsea

Hotsauce007 said:


> Hi, I'm new to this thread. I currently have an Nvidia Shield (2019) and the Epson 5040. What settings should I be use on the Nvidia and on the Epson? As of now, the picture looks a little washed out. I heard that HDR isn't the best with this projector, so I am running SDR. I have the Nvidia set to 4k 12 bit 4:2:2 bt2020 60hz. Is this the correct setting? Should I be setting it to 1080p instead since the Epson does 4k upscaling? My basement is very dark and I'm using a 120 inch silver ticket screen. Is it worth getting the HDfury Linker UHD/HDR HDMI Scaler that I saw mentioned on here? I'm so lost as to what settings to use.


The Shield is awesome for the 5040, I bought this specifically to work with this projector. I set mine to 4k HDR 24 when running the 5040 and then playing Netflix 4k content etc you go to the menu and select frame rate match, this will then ensure you get 24f 4k HDR. You then just need to make sure you running HDR settings on the projector to match. I use Harpervision settings.

If you set the Shield to 4k 60, you can then use SDR settings for watching 1080p content or non HDR. 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Hotsauce007

Brettmckinney said:


> The Shield is awesome for the 5040, I bought this specifically to work with this projector. I set mine to 4k HDR 24 when running the 5040 and then playing Netflix 4k content etc you go to the menu and select frame rate match, this will then ensure you get 24f 4k HDR. You then just need to make sure you running HDR settings on the projector to match. I use Harpervision settings.
> 
> If you set the Shield to 4k 60, you can then use SDR settings for watching 1080p content or non HDR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Thanks. Could you be a bit more specific about the settings. Where do I get the harpervision settings? 
Does it mean I need to switch between two different set of settings depending on whether I want to watch 4k content vs 1080 content?


----------



## olegg

Hotsauce007 said:


> Thanks. Could you be a bit more specific about the settings. Where do I get the harpervision settings?
> Does it mean I need to switch between two different set of settings depending on whether I want to watch 4k content vs 1080 content?


 Try these settings, save any of those sets to memory ( remote control) and you can recall them at will whatever you like


----------



## Hotsauce007

olegg said:


> Try these settings, save any of those sets to memory ( remote control) and you can recall them at will whatever you like


Thank you! Would the HDfury Linker UHD/HDR HDMI Scaler make any difference?


----------



## by96

Hotsauce007 said:


> Thank you! Would the HDfury Linker UHD/HDR HDMI Scaler make any difference?


I recently got a 6040 and ended up buying the Linker. It does give you more control over the HDMI signals sent to your PJ. The 5040/6040 only has a 10.2GB HDMI, not the current standard of 18GB. So, the PJ cannot receive a full 4k, 60HZ, 4:4:4, 10-bit signal. The Linker can change the signal to 8-bit so the PJ accepts it. Mostly, people use it for gaming systems (X-Box, PS4), as games are played at 60Hz. Blu-rays are already at 24Hz, and you can manually change some devices (like the Apple TV 4k) to output at 24Hz, making it so the PJ will accept it. Unless you have gaming systems, my understanding is that you don't "need" the Linker, but personally, I like the extra control. Plus, I needed an HDMI switch, and it serves that function as well. If you get one, check out the GoBlue adapter. For an extra $50, you can control the Linker from an app on your phone. Lastly, there is a Linker group on AVS Forums, and HDFury has a rep in the group who answers questions about it.


----------



## john hunter

Oledurt said:


> On the panny I have dynamic range conversion set to -6 and have also increased the brightness +6 on the panny to offset the darker picture.
> 
> On the Integral I am using mode 10. Projector Info is 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 SDR...Enjoy.
> 
> Here are my settings.
> 
> Digital Cinema Mode
> 
> Brightness 48
> Contrast 70
> Color Saturation 50
> Tint 50
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 3
> [Customized]
> Offset R 48
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 50
> Gain R 50
> Gain G 50
> Gain B 41
> 
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris High Speed
> 
> Gamma (Left to Right)
> -1,0,0,-2,-4,-8,-11,-8,-5
> 
> [RGBCMY]
> R 50,44,66
> G 97,77,44
> B 66,63,50
> C 62,52,60
> M 78,58,58
> Y 50,45,63
> 
> Epson Super White Off
> Lens Iris 0
> 
> HDMI Video Range Auto
> Color Space Auto
> Dynamic Range Auto
> Image Processing Fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Have enjoyed your setups over the years and thanks very much for posting.
These are great for me but only when altering the Dynamic range in the UB420 from minus to a plus!!
Otherwise too dark by far and loosing a lot of low level detail.
I use the montage of images on the Spears and Munsil UHD for comparisons.
Cheers


----------



## by96

Good morning. I searched around and didn't find much, but might have missed something. I have had my refurb 6040ub for almost two weeks now and noticed a reddish blob on grey screens, but not so far in actual content. When the image is changing and there is a brief grey screen, I saw it. I put up grey screens on YouTube, and it was very evident at 0%. I read online that it is a dust on an LCD, probably the green one. The only advice I found was to remove the air filter and vacuum out the air inlet. I have tried that and won't know until tonight (when it is dark enough) if it worked. Any other suggestions? I assume I may have to contact Epson for a warranty repair? Thanks for your help.


----------



## mixboy

Sent you a PM...



carlb1 said:


> If anyone is interested I am selling my Epson 5040. Its a Epson Refurbished unit that i bought in June of 2019 and it works great. It has the original bulb still in it and has about 4500 hours on it. I have a brand new Epson Replacement bulb that came with it when i bought it. It has about 10 months left on the 2 year warranty. I also have two pair of 3d glasses one new and one used a few times.
> I really like the projector but we are remodeling and it just wont work well in the new configuration. I am replacing it with a sony x900h 85"
> 750 for the projector, glasses and new bulb plus whatever the actual shipping is.
> 
> Thanks
> Carl.


----------



## JHouse

I just bought the new 5050ub to replace my Panasonic PT-AE8000. 

HUGE IMPROVEMENT in detail. Brighter, clearer, amazing contrast. It's like you are in the room with them. I can't stop smiling.

Switching out the two projectors takes about 3 minutes. Same power cord. Stick in the HDMI. And you're done. I did go on the projectorreviews.com site that came up first on Google to see what settings a reviewer recommended. They were all good except for he went too far with his overall gamma changes. It took about 10 minutes to figure out where to find everything. Never RTFM. Probably never will.

I showed my wife some 4K stuff from YouTube, and her comment was it was “clearer than real life”. Endeavor looked fantastic. No wonder they've been out for three years and still sell for full retail.

I still use the original 133” Da-Lite High Power 2.8 gain screen that is no longer in production.


----------



## Dirt9

by96 said:


> Good morning. I searched around and didn't find much, but might have missed something. I have had my refurb 6040ub for almost two weeks now and noticed a reddish blob on grey screens, but not so far in actual content. When the image is changing and there is a brief grey screen, I saw it. I put up grey screens on YouTube, and it was very evident at 0%. I read online that it is a dust on an LCD, probably the green one. The only advice I found was to remove the air filter and vacuum out the air inlet. I have tried that and won't know until tonight (when it is dark enough) if it worked. Any other suggestions? I assume I may have to contact Epson for a warranty repair? Thanks for your help.


If the blob bothers you I would take pictures and open up a claim with Epson right away! I wouldn't try to correct it yourself .


----------



## by96

Dirt9 said:


> If the blob bothers you I would take pictures and open up a claim with Epson right away! I wouldn't try to correct it yourself .


Thank you. So far, I haven't seen it in any content, so it doesn't bother me... yet. However, I have no idea if such things get worse over time. I will probably call Epson soon.


----------



## Dirt9

by96 said:


> Thank you. So far, I haven't seen it in any content, so it doesn't bother me... yet. However, I have no idea if such things get worse over time. I will probably call Epson soon.


The dust blob probably wont get worse but you'll train yourself to look for it every time. I've seen where people have tried to correct a dust blob and ended up just moving it to a worse position, DO NOT BLOW AIR IN THERE AND DO NOT WIPE THE LENS,IT SCRATCHES INSTANTLY!!


----------



## by96

Dirt9 said:


> The dust blob probably wont get worse but you'll train yourself to look for it every time. I've seen where people have tried to correct a dust blob and ended up just moving it to a worse position, DO NOT BLOW AIR IN THERE!!


Don't worry! I am not blowing air in there! I never saw that "remedy," only vacuuming out the inlet.


----------



## bigdad56

blastermaster said:


> So I got my 3D glasses, synced them up and threw in a few 3D movies (Prometheus, Final Destination 3D, RP1) to test it out. I'll be honest, I liked the 3D of my old Optoma DLP better. It's a bit hard to describe, but it just seemed like the 3D on the Epson was a bit more flat. It still looks pretty good, and the popout effects in Final Destination were very evident, but the depth (looking through a window) effect seemed better on my DLP. Anyone else feel the same?


Man I just tried my first 3D screening on my 5040 and I was super excited for it and put on black panther and man was it terrible. My old Samsung tv was way better. The crosstalk was terrible and I tinkered with it for a bit but got frustrated and came on here to see if anyone else was having any problems... I specifically bought a 5040 because I heard the 3D was awesome but man am I disappointed. Will try again over the weekend but first impressions have not been very good.

does anyone have any advice? I’m starting to think maybe I made a bad decision with the 5040? I know it’s not the glasses and my screen is a 1.0 gain screen.. all advice appreciated!


----------



## sleepingatsea

RE: 3D. Interesting. I have no experience with other projectors to compare but for me this projector blew my VT65 out of the water. I did end up buying the official Epson glasses and noticed less flicker and more of a stable image but didn't impact any 3D elements really.

Will have to check my settings but I'm using the Sound & Vision 3D settings and they look amazing via my Panny UB820.

We watched Thor Ragnarok the other night and the depth and pop out were next level. Minimal cross talk also.

One thing I remember reading on here a while back though was inconsistency between units. Some had massive crosstalk issues while others didn't. 



Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

bigdad56 said:


> Man I just tried my first 3D screening on my 5040 and I was super excited for it and put on black panther and man was it terrible. My old Samsung tv was way better. The crosstalk was terrible and I tinkered with it for a bit but got frustrated and came on here to see if anyone else was having any problems... I specifically bought a 5040 because I heard the 3D was awesome but man am I disappointed. Will try again over the weekend but first impressions have not been very good.
> 
> does anyone have any advice? I’m starting to think maybe I made a bad decision with the 5040? I know it’s not the glasses and my screen is a 1.0 gain screen.. all advice appreciated!
> [/QUOTE
> 
> PM sent


----------



## sleepingatsea

olegg said:


> CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD UPS, works really well for almost 3 years with no battery swap yet ...


Just wondering if the projector is the only thing you have plugged in to this? I just got one and have the Epson and a SVS PB2000 plugged in. I went to turn the projector on the other night and it went into a wierd loop and wouldn't come on. I then realised the UPS was switched off. Turned it on and then the Epson came back to life.
So not strong enough to have other items plugged in or just a coincidence? 
Have you had it run just from the UPS for a period?

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## olegg

I have it sitting on 20 amp dedicated line, that alone might help you to sort things out. All my media gear is plugged into UPS: Marantz sr7013 powering 9 channels, AC Infinity AIRCOM T10, Behringer NX3000D powering 2 subs, Shield TV Pro, Epson 5050, Unifi switch, router, modem, MacBook Pro, Synology NAS, Lutron bridge. I've never had any switching off or any other problem, battery is still 100%, output is 73 W at idle. I hope it helps.


----------



## ba_crane

I understand that not that long ago, Epson was selling refurb 5040ub units for $1,200. Few days ago Epson has the refurb listed for $2,250. What on earth is going on?

You can buy a new 5050 for $2,500. Where do they get off asking $2,250 for refurb 5040?


----------



## jsklar

by96 said:


> Don't worry! I am not blowing air in there! I never saw that "remedy," only vacuuming out the inlet.


Do you mean vacuuming the outlet? Isn't the filter on the inlet? If you vacuuming the inlet it would suck air in from the outlet that doesn't have a filter which could bring more dust into the unit. I would assume vacuuming the outlet would only draw air in through the filter hopefully preventing further dust from entering the unit. Would probably be a good idea to use the vacuum to clean the filter too before doing it in case any dust was stuck on the inside of the filter.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## bigdad56

ba_crane said:


> I understand that not that long ago, Epson was selling refurb 5040ub units for $1,200. Few days ago Epson has the refurb listed for $2,250. What on earth is going on?
> 
> You can buy a new 5050 for $2,500. Where do they get off asking $2,250 for refurb 5040?


I got mine about a month or two ago for $1200...


----------



## by96

jsklar said:


> Do you mean vacuuming the outlet? Isn't the filter on the inlet? If you vacuuming the inlet it would suck air in from the outlet that doesn't have a filter which could bring more dust into the unit. I would assume vacuuming the outlet would only draw air in through the filter hopefully preventing further dust from entering the unit. Would probably be a good idea to use the vacuum to clean the filter too before doing it in case any dust was stuck on the inside of the filter.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


This is the link I was referring to:









My video projector has a purple spot!


For the second time in the past couple weeks, a client has called asking what to do about purple spots or a purple splotch on the projected image. Those purple (sometimes red-purple) spots are typically due to dirt or dust coming to rest on the green LCD panel of your projector. We've had...




geartechs.com


----------



## Nightwing-DG

ba_crane said:


> I understand that not that long ago, Epson was selling refurb 5040ub units for $1,200. Few days ago Epson has the refurb listed for $2,250. What on earth is going on?
> 
> You can buy a new 5050 for $2,500. Where do they get off asking $2,250 for refurb 5040?


Wow! I just checked and you're right. It's still at that price.


----------



## marco1975

have the Epson eh-tw9300, and it's starting to show dust blobs issue, i have like 3 small fainted white spots that are only visible in very dark scene, is this something that i can try to fix my self? any instruction/guide on how to? unfortunately the projector is out of warranty.


----------



## noob00224

marco1975 said:


> have the Epson eh-tw9300, and it's starting to show dust blobs issue, i have like 3 small fainted white spots that are only visible in very dark scene, is this something that i can try to fix my self? any instruction/guide on how to? unfortunately the projector is out of warranty.


I don't know exactly, but DO NOT SPRAY COMPRESSED AIR INTO THE PROJECTOR before opening it.
Or try to clean the outside lens.
Should you clean a projector lens?

6030UB = TW9200


----------



## marco1975

noob00224 said:


> I don't know exactly, but DO NOT SPRAY COMPRESSED AIR INTO THE PROJECTOR before opening it.
> Or try to clean the outside lens.
> Should you clean a projector lens?
> 
> 6030UB = TW9200


thanks for this. 
i have already tried to gently clean the outside of the lens but that didn't help


----------



## mexxmann

I am using an Xbox One S with the 5040 and am trying to get Netflix and Amazon to stream at 4k 4:2:2 12-bit HDR, like this screenshot from post #10,131.

My setup:

The projector is connected directly to the XBox One via HDMI.
In XBox One settings, the display resolution is set to 1080p, and when Netflix starts, it does switch to 4k automatically.
I ticked the "Allow YCC 4:2:2 option" in the Xbox settings and am able to get the 4K 10-bit 24 Hz and HDR checkboxes to show up:









The problems:

In Netflix, I'm able to get a 4k (3840x2160) resolution but only 8-bit 4:2:0 as observed from the projector info menu. An example video is "Our Planet". I do have the premium UHD subscription.










In Amazon Prime Video, I'm only able to get 1080p and 8-bit 4:2:0 - so no 4k at all. Example video - "The Boys".


Any suggestions for what I'm doing wrong? Thanks in advance!


----------



## sleepingatsea

Your best bet is to set Xbox to 4k (HDR off) if you can as the streaming apps will try do 60hz HDR and can't so will then revert to 1080p/60.

I bought a Shield tv pro specifically for my projector as the match frame rate will work and play Netflix/Prime etc at 4k, 24hz HDR.

I couldn't achieve this on PS4 Pro or my UB820 Bluray player. 

Not familiar with xbix sorry so maybe someone can chime in but it's really the streaming apps getting in the way - unless you add a linker which changes to 8bit and will then allow for BT2020 @60hz.



Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## mexxmann

Brettmckinney said:


> Your best bet is to set Xbox to 4k (HDR off) if you can as the streaming apps will try do 60hz HDR and can't so will then revert to 1080p/60.


Thanks for the reply @Brettmckinney. I see that in the screenshots in post #10,131, @Juiced46 was able to get Amazon Video to stream at 4k / 4:2:2 12-bit on an XBox One S, so I'm hoping someone can tell me how to make that happen


----------



## by96

I am trying to find the best settings for my Panny 820 and Epson 6040. I have gotten great feedback in the 820 group but was referred here for one question. If I am using SDR2020 from the Panny, is setting the PJ's dynamic range to Auto going to get the same results as if I set it to SDR (to only have tone mapping done in the Panny)? I have tried both ways and don't see a difference, and the on-screen data seems to be the same. I am hoping to use Auto, since I also run an ATV4K and want to set it to HDR. Thanks for any help.


----------



## Dominic Chan

mexxmann said:


> Thanks for the reply @Brettmckinney. I see that in the screenshots in post #10,131, @Juiced46 was able to get Amazon Video to stream at 4k / 4:2:2 12-bit on an XBox One S, so I'm hoping someone can tell me how to make that happen


That combination works at 24 FPS


----------



## sleepingatsea

by96 said:


> I am trying to find the best settings for my Panny 820 and Epson 6040. I have gotten great feedback in the 820 group but was referred here for one question. If I am using SDR2020 from the Panny, is setting the PJ's dynamic range to Auto going to get the same results as if I set it to SDR (to only have tone mapping done in the Panny)? I have tried both ways and don't see a difference, and the on-screen data seems to be the same. I am hoping to use Auto, since I also run an ATV4K and want to set it to HDR. Thanks for any help.


Yep all good to leave at AUTO on the 6040. It detects the SDR2020 coming from the Panny so will display correctly for you. This is now I have mine too. 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## by96

Brettmckinney said:


> Yep all good to leave at AUTO on the 6040. It detects the SDR2020 coming from the Panny so will display correctly for you. This is now I have mine too.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Much thanks!

BTW, I am told I need to set Gamma to 2.4, and I read that on the Epson, -2 is 2.3. Is that correct? Is that the best option? Thanks!


----------



## sleepingatsea

by96 said:


> Much thanks!
> 
> BTW, I am told I need to set Gamma to 2.4, and I read that on the Epson, -2 is 2.3. Is that correct? Is that the best option? Thanks!


I have read that before also but I use a custom gamma curve so couldn't confirm for you sorry. 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## by96

Brettmckinney said:


> I have read that before also but I use a custom gamma curve so couldn't confirm for you sorry.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Thanks! I will eventually calibrate the PJ, but will use -2 for now. Thanks again. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Grayson73

mexxmann said:


> Thanks for the reply @Brettmckinney. I see that in the screenshots in post #10,131, @Juiced46 was able to get Amazon Video to stream at 4k / 4:2:2 12-bit on an XBox One S, so I'm hoping someone can tell me how to make that happen


The best the 5040UB can do is 4k30 4:2:2 12-bit or 4k60 4:2:0 8-bit. I was told 4k30 4:2:2 12-bit is best for everything except watching sports and games.


----------



## mexxmann

Grayson73 said:


> The best the 5040UB can do is 4k30 4:2:2 12-bit or 4k60 4:2:0 8-bit. I was told 4k30 4:2:2 12-bit is best for everything except watching sports and games.


Yes that's what I've understood as well. I just noticed from this post:
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/epson-4010-and-5040-4000-and-4k-hdr-streaming.3164830/post-60055076 (see post #8)
that 4k24hz seems to have stopped working properly for the Amazon video app on XBox. If that's the case, that's likely why I can't get it working.

If anyone else is using the Amazon video app on xbox, if they could chime in that would be great!


----------



## rsmclay

I have recently purchased the 5040ub refurbished and rounded it out with the Panasonic 420 and the Shield TV. I have searched and read a bunch of different posts on how best to set up the 420 and the epson but I am starting to get a bit confused on how best to make all this works.

I'd like to use the AI upscaling out of the shield if that makes sense to do so and also use the Panny for physical 4k discs. 

Does anyone have, or know where I can find, info on the best settings for the Panny, Shield and Epson?


----------



## by96

I have an Panny 820 and 6040ub and also was very interested in the best options. Unfortunately, I can't point you to one place with consolidated information. There is good information on this thread and the one for the Panny, at least regarding the 820 (the 420 is a different owner's thread). I am testing out setting the Panny 820 to SDR2020 and the Epson to auto dynamic range. I have been told that this approach will do the tone mapping in the Panny alone. If the Panny and Epson are both set to HDR, then both will do tone mapping, which can be problematic. Look at this thread for recent discussions I had with others (who know much more than me) on this topic:









Official Panasonic DP-UB820/824 Owner's Thread (No...


Thanks for the input. I have read that a -2 on Gamma is 2.3 with the Epson, so that is what I am using. I am thinking the Epson does auto switch to 2020, as I ran a test by putting the dynamic range to auto (with the Panny at SDR2020). When I bought the PJ's on-screen display, it said SDR &...




www.avsforum.com





I use an AppleTV 4K, so I have no input on your Shield.


----------



## rsmclay

@by96 thanks for the link to the thread. I took a look at your questions and some of the answers did seem to help my understanding some. Thank you!

The way they explained it as a container, sort of like a MKV container, that is just transporting the signal, really helped me visualize it.

I am really hoping someone who uses the Shield Pro, particularly with the AI Enhanced set, can help guide me in the right direction. 

Again, thank you @by96


----------



## by96

rsmclay said:


> @by96 thanks for the link to the thread. I took a look at your questions and some of the answers did seem to help my understanding some. Thank you!
> 
> The way they explained it as a container, sort of like a MKV container, that is just transporting the signal, really helped me visualize it.
> 
> I am really hoping someone who uses the Shield Pro, particularly with the AI Enhanced set, can help guide me in the right direction.
> 
> Again, thank you @by96


I sent you a PM, but for anyone else, I would recommend trying out Brettmckinney's suggestions on post #18,558. I hadn't realized until now he was using the Panny 820 in SDR2020 for these settings. I will be using them as of tonight and see how I like them. I like that the settings use Natural, which is my preferred color mode presently. I am personally setting Dynamic Range to Auto so that the PJ will process an HDR signal from my AppleTV.


----------



## bigdad56

mexxmann said:


> I am using an Xbox One S with the 5040 and am trying to get Netflix and Amazon to stream at 4k 4:2:2 12-bit HDR, like this screenshot from post #10,131.
> 
> My setup:
> 
> The projector is connected directly to the XBox One via HDMI.
> In XBox One settings, the display resolution is set to 1080p, and when Netflix starts, it does switch to 4k automatically.
> I ticked the "Allow YCC 4:2:2 option" in the Xbox settings and am able to get the 4K 10-bit 24 Hz and HDR checkboxes to show up:
> View attachment 3034814
> 
> The problems:
> 
> In Netflix, I'm able to get a 4k (3840x2160) resolution but only 8-bit 4:2:0 as observed from the projector info menu. An example video is "Our Planet". I do have the premium UHD subscription.
> 
> View attachment 3034815
> 
> 
> In Amazon Prime Video, I'm only able to get 1080p and 8-bit 4:2:0 - so no 4k at all. Example video - "The Boys".
> 
> Any suggestions for what I'm doing wrong? Thanks in advance!


I'm having a similar issue but cannot get my xbox to realize that it is an HDR display? It shows 4k but not HDR. So where you have a check mark where it says your xbox supports HDR10 mine does not. I'm also running an xbox one S. How did you get it to realize it does have HDR support?


----------



## mexxmann

bigdad56 said:


> I'm having a similar issue but cannot get my xbox to realize that it is an HDR display? It shows 4k but not HDR. So where you have a check mark where it says your xbox supports HDR10 mine does not. I'm also running an xbox one S. How did you get it to realize it does have HDR support?


In the Video Modes screen on XBox, you need to tick the "Allow YCC 4:2:2" option like in this screenshot:









Note that 4k 2:2:2 12-bit HDR will still only work if the apps will transmit at 24hz since that's the only way it fits with the 10Gbps limitation. I think Netflix will only do 60hz so HDR won't work anyway. Sucks...


----------



## RRF

JHouse said:


> I just bought the new 5050ub to replace my Panasonic PT-AE8000.
> 
> HUGE IMPROVEMENT in detail. Brighter, clearer, amazing contrast. It's like you are in the room with them. I can't stop smiling.


My 2007 PT-AE2000U just started giving me problems after 6 lamps and 13K hours. I really liked my PT-AE2000. Except for some uniformity issues, it calibrated well and had amazing focus.

So I am also looking at the Epsons. But I do not see much difference between the 2015 5040 and the 2020 5050 models other than price.

I also do not see as many controls for calibration as some ISF certified projectors. 8 point greyscale seems very inadequate for a 2020 projector. Is there a hidden service mode with more settings?

My references for color accuracy are a Panasonic 65ZT60 plasma and a new Sony X950. The Panny calibrated perfectly.


----------



## avtoronto

by96 said:


> I sent you a PM, but for anyone else, I would recommend trying out Brettmckinney's suggestions on post #18,558. I hadn't realized until now he was using the Panny 820 in SDR2020 for these settings. I will be using them as of tonight and see how I like them. I like that the settings use Natural, which is my preferred color mode presently. I am personally setting Dynamic Range to Auto so that the PJ will process an HDR signal from my AppleTV.


I read the excellent posts in the 820 thread. With respect to using the wide colour gamut, a gentle reminder that’s been stated many times in this thread, you must select either Digital Cinema or Cinema. Natural uses the Rec.709 gamut only.


----------



## mexxmann

RRF said:


> But I do not see much difference between the 2015 5040 and the 2020 5050 models other than price.


Biggest difference will be the 10Gbps HDMI processor in the 5040 vs 18Gbps in the 5050. You won't be able to get 4k with HDR @ 60hz with the 5040 because of this limitation.


----------



## RRF

mexxmann said:


> Biggest difference will be the 10Gbps HDMI processor in the 5040 vs 18Gbps in the 5050. You won't be able to get 4k with HDR @ 60hz with the 5040 because of this limitation.


Thanks
How old exactly is this model? 2016 - 4 years?
Does it receive regular firmware updates to keep it up to date with more recent standards like HDR10 and Dolby Vision?


----------



## Dominic Chan

RRF said:


> So I am also looking at the Epsons. But I do not see much difference between the 2015 5040 and the 2020 5050 models other than price.


The new model supports HDMI 2.0 with 18Gbps, which is required for HDR @60fps. 


> I also do not see as many controls for calibration as some ISF certified projectors. 8 point greyscale seems very inadequate for a 2020 projector. Is there a hidden service mode with more settings?


I am not aware of any way to adjust more points. Note the these 8 points do not even provide independent adjustments for R/G/B, so they are only for gamma and not for greyscale.


----------



## bigdad56

mexxmann said:


> In the Video Modes screen on XBox, you need to tick the "Allow YCC 4:2:2" option like in this screenshot:
> View attachment 3035612
> 
> 
> Note that 4k 2:2:2 12-bit HDR will still only work if the apps will transmit at 24hz since that's the only way it fits with the 10Gbps limitation. I think Netflix will only do 60hz so HDR won't work anyway. Sucks...


Thank you. I wonder if it will play games with HDR at 24hz since most games are at 60hz i believe?


----------



## RRF

Dominic Chan said:


> The new model supports HDMI 2.0 with 18Gbps, which is required for HDR @60fps.
> 
> I am not aware of any way to adjust more points. Note the these 8 points do not even provide independent adjustments for R/G/B, so they are only for gamma and not for greyscale.


Well that's discouraging. That and the inflated MSRP from Canadian suppliers.


----------



## Grayson73

bigdad56 said:


> Thank you. I wonder if it will play games with HDR at 24hz since most games are at 60hz i believe?


For games, the suggestion is 60hz 4:2:0 8-bit
For movies, the suggestion is 24hz/30hz 4:2:2 12-bit


----------



## niccolo

I have a simple question: How many inches is the Epson 5040UB lens in front of the center, where the pole would be for a mount?

I'm asking because I'm ceiling hanging a Benq W1070 that I'm guessing still has a few years of life in it, and I'm trying to choose my mounting location so that a future upgrade projector would work in the same location. The Benq W1070 lens is 4.05" in front of the center of the mounting point, for what it's worth. I'm guessing the Epson is more, e.g. 6 or 7"? But I can't find a schematic for the Epson like Benq includes in its manual.

I have a ceiling joist about 12'7" from the screen wall. That puts the Benq lens about 12'3" from the screen. The Epson 5050 UB (I'm guessing 5040 is the same) must be at least 11'8" from the screen. So I guess my question is, is the Epson lens less than 11" in front of the center of the mounting point, i.e. where the pole would be? Surely the answer must be yes, but I just want to be totally sure. (And yes, there's a separate issue which is that the Benq lens is offset laterally, whereas the Epson lens is centered, which would mean either moving the ceiling mount laterally or using horizontal lens shift in the Epson.)

EDIT: Found a schematic here, Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread (also attached)







. There are nine attachment points. Assuming the midpoint/pole is centered, the pole midpoint to lens front distance is ~25.35 cm or 9.98 inches. Gulp, that's uncomfortably close to the 11 inches I have available, but I guess the good news is if my estimations are right, I've got a solid inch of wiggle room.

EDIT 2: Checked the JVC DLA-RS40, lens to screen minimum distance 12'1" and again no schematic in the user manual or on the manufacturer page (why would high-end projector manufacturers not provide these while Benq does?), this one is likely to be close, or a no go, at that mounting location, too.

That's the last ceiling joist before the rear wall (the room is only 14.5' deep), but I do have the option of putting some blocking in the ceiling and positioning the projector a few more inches back if necessary (and the Benq can handle that, too).


----------



## Tibor Makai

Did you use the projector calculator, to see what size picture will you get from that distance with this Epson? I had the Ht2050A before, and I had to move the Epson quite a distance(~3') back to have the same 120" screen size. I'm at 15'.


----------



## niccolo

Tibor Makai said:


> Did you use the projector calculator, to see what size picture will you get from that distance with this Epson? I had the Ht2050A before, and I had to move the Epson quite a distance(~3') back to have the same 120" screen size. I'm at 15'.


I did. As you're presumably aware, a projector calculator tells you lens to screen distance. That's how I determined that for my 119" 16:9 screen, the 5040's lens would need to be 11'8" or more away from the screen. That's why I'm trying to figure out what the distance is from the 5040's lens to the center of the mounting point, i.e the center of where the pole would be, so I can figure out what mount location would/wouldn't work.

The problem is that the Benq W1070 is a relatively short-throw projector. So I'm trying to position it fairly far back in its range, so that more typical throw projectors--like the Epson 5040--would still work, if/when I end up replacing the Benq.


----------



## niccolo

I think I've figured things out.

My room is 14'5" deep. 

The Benq lens must be 10' to 12'11" from the screen, and its mounting point is 4" from the lens front, i.e. it must be mounted 10'4" to 13"3" from the screen.

The Epson lens must be 11'8" to 12'3" from the screen, with the latter number calculated not based on throw, but on Epson's specified minimum of 8" from any wall (in this case, the back wall). The Epson lens is 10" in front of the mounting point, so it must be mounted between 12'6 and 13'1".

Yet another projector, the JVC DLA-RS40, is an inch deeper than the Epson, so I'm going to want to give myself a little wiggle room off the back wall, i.e. push the projector a tad closer to the screen in the acceptable range, to keep my options open for upgrades. 

So basically I want to be at least an inch, maybe two or three, in front of 13"1", i.e. the projector pole should be centered at 13' or 12'11" or 12'10" from the screen. This will work for the Benq and maximize my upgrade options.

Separately, the Benq lens is offset 2.67 laterally, so either I'd have to use horizontal lens shift on an upgrade projector or I have to be prepared to move the mount laterally. It so happens that Chief makes a nice mount that slides, intended to be able to adjust the depth but it'll work nicely oriented laterally instead.

Thanks for letting me work that out here! Only partially relevant to this thread, obviously.


----------



## nathan

JHouse said:


> I just bought the new 5050ub to replace my Panasonic PT-AE8000.
> 
> HUGE IMPROVEMENT in detail. Brighter, clearer, amazing contrast. It's like you are in the room with them. I can't stop smiling.
> 
> Switching out the two projectors takes about 3 minutes. Same power cord. Stick in the HDMI. And you're done. I did go on the projectorreviews.com site that came up first on Google to see what settings a reviewer recommended. They were all good except for he went too far with his overall gamma changes. It took about 10 minutes to figure out where to find everything. Never RTFM. Probably never will.
> 
> I showed my wife some 4K stuff from YouTube, and her comment was it was “clearer than real life”. Endeavor looked fantastic. No wonder they've been out for three years and still sell for full retail.


I just did the same and upgraded to a NVidia Shield. It's awesome so far. What settings did you use. 

Also, what do I do with my 5040UBrick that died 2 months out of warranty?!?! Any way to repair these at all yet when out of warranty? I sometime miss my old repairable CRT.


----------



## tibimakai

Before you throw it out, I would take if of your hand, and I would look at it, to see what is keep failing in these.


----------



## sleepingatsea

The last couple of times I've gone to turn my projector on, it starts with the loud fan and flashing blue light and then after a few minutes goes to a flashing orange light. It seems to stay like this and I can't turn it off via the remote and need to unplug the power plug. When I plug it back in and turn it on, it repeats but then comes back on. Weird.
I did clean the filter about a month or so ago, might try this again.
Anyone else have this issue?


----------



## Alex solomon

Why do 4k HDR movies look so washed out on this PJ? I tried some settings suggested here like Harpervision but the colors are off compared to my Sony X900E HDR TV. Anyway to solve this issue other than getting a new projector? Would adding an HDFury Linker, Vertex or Integral 2 help with HDR color? I only have 400 hours on the UB5040 and have an extra lamp so I would like to keep using it for many years to come.

My receiver is the Yamaha RX-A2070 and HDMI is set to Mode 1. Video mode is set to Processing, but all the supported video output resolution are grayed out except for AUTO. Anyone using a Yamaha paired to the same PJ that can point me as to why the supported video resolution are grayed out? Thanks


----------



## inspector

Try the Panny 420. After you get it, I'll send you my setting that I use and for me they are just right.


----------



## inspector

The 420 goes for $160 @ Best Buy.


----------



## Alex solomon

inspector said:


> Try the Panny 420. After you get it, I'll send you my setting that I use and for me they are just right.


Thanks, I appriciate the offer. I use mostly streamers that support Kodi. I have Apple TV 4K, Nvidia Shield Pro 2019, FireTv 4K, Nero 4k+ and Samsung UBD-K8500 for occasional discs. I am looking for a solution that I can use with all my streaming boxes.


----------



## bigdad56

Where do you you all get your replacement lamps? I got my 5040 about 2 months ago and am using it A LOT more than expected. Want to go ahead and do my research for maintenance.


----------



## mexxmann

Alex solomon said:


> I use mostly streamers that support Kodi. I have Apple TV 4K, Nvidia Shield Pro 2019, FireTv 4K, Nero 4k+ and Samsung UBD-K8500 for occasional discs.


@Alex solomon : Are you able to get 24hz/30hz 4:2:2 12-bit from any of the streaming apps on these devices? I have tried an Xbox One S and a FireStick 4k and am only able to get that from Plex on XBox One S. However, Plex seems to have reliability / buffering problems on XBox One .

For the FireStick 4k, I am able to get:

Netflix: 4K 60hz 4:2:0 8-bit (presumably Netflix only streams at 60 hz so this is prob the best possible)
Amazon Prime Video: 4K 24hz 4:4:4 8-bit
Plex: 4K 24hz 4:4:4 8-bit (no 12-bit)
Kodi: 4k 24hz 8-bit
In particular, I want to know if the NVidia Shield would do any better in terms of the goal of getting 24hz/30hz 4:2:2 12-bit video, and if it's worth the extra $$ over the Fire Stick.


----------



## Darrell Money

mexxmann said:


> Yes that's what I've understood as well. I just noticed from this post:
> https://www.avsforum.com/threads/epson-4010-and-5040-4000-and-4k-hdr-streaming.3164830/post-60055076 (see post #8)
> that 4k24hz seems to have stopped working properly for the Amazon video app on XBox. If that's the case, that's likely why I can't get it working.
> 
> If anyone else is using the Amazon video app on xbox, if they could chime in that would be great!


I stream from an Xbox One S, and the Prime Video app will only play at 60Hz now. It used to do 24hz, but believe they dropped the 24hz support during a recent update. I fiddled with everything I could, and called Prime Video support; to no avail. If anyone else has figured it out, I'm all ears, but think it's due to the app itself.


----------



## nathan

tibimakai said:


> Before you throw it out, I would take if of your hand, and I would look at it, to see what is keep failing in these.


I'll keep that in mind. Better than junking it. Maybe I'll see what epson has to say, but it sound like repairs are running more than the refurb price from a couple months ago.


----------



## tixie

I am new to home theater so bear with me if I am missing anything. I am trying to get the best picture out of a setup with Fire TV 4K (with disney plus), HD fury linker, yamaha tsr-7850, and 5040ube. Without the linker, I can get 4k60 420 8bit from FireTV 4K (the yamaha is pass through so I think that we can ignore it). With linker between tsr-7850 and 5040ube, I can't get 4k at all, even with the preset 3 (I am not using the wireless adapter, opting for a monoprice 30 ft 18Gbps active hdmi cable). It just seems like that firetv does not detect a compatible mode and revert to 1080p instead. I thought that linker preset 3 would work out of box for this projector. So what I am doing wrong? I did customize edid a bit though I also tried with holding reset and press input 3 times to get to preset 3.

Also with firetv 4k, what is the best display quality I can get (assuming with the help of the linker)? I did use firetv's hidden resolution to manually forcing 4k24 but it does not survive restarting.

Thank you!


----------



## Alex solomon

mexxmann said:


> @Alex solomon : Are you able to get 24hz/30hz 4:2:2 12-bit from any of the streaming apps on these devices? I have tried an Xbox One S and a FireStick 4k and am only able to get that from Plex on XBox One S. However, Plex seems to have reliability / buffering problems on XBox One .
> 
> For the FireStick 4k, I am able to get:
> 
> Netflix: 4K 60hz 4:2:0 8-bit (presumably Netflix only streams at 60 hz so this is prob the best possible)
> Amazon Prime Video: 4K 24hz 4:4:4 8-bit
> Plex: 4K 24hz 4:4:4 8-bit (no 12-bit)
> Kodi: 4k 24hz 8-bit
> In particular, I want to know if the NVidia Shield would do any better in terms of the goal of getting 24hz/30hz 4:2:2 12-bit video, and if it's worth the extra $$ over the Fire Stick.


I set the Nvidia to output 4K @ 23.976hz with match color space set to on and I get 4:2:2 12-bit video on the Epson.
For me, the AI upscaling on Shield 2019 Pro is worth upgrading from Nvidia 2017 (which I still have) let alone the FireTV since I have a vast library of 720p and 1080p movies. I don't use the FireTV with the EPSON projector anymore. It has been moved to the bedroom and mated with Sony 900E HDR TV.


----------



## Dark Rider

bigdad56 said:


> Where do you you all get your replacement lamps? I got my 5040 about 2 months ago and am using it A LOT more than expected. Want to go ahead and do my research for maintenance.


I've got right at 3000 hours on my factory lamp, and just ordered my replacement from Pureland Supply, Epson Home Cinema 5040UB Projector Lamps | Home Cinema 5040UB Bulbs | Pureland Supply. I've had good experience ordering from them in the past for my previous projector, and they're a fair bit cheapter than the Epson branded lamp. They use the OEM (OSRAM) bulb in a generic but well made housing.


----------



## westbergjoakim

mexxmann said:


> @Alex solomon : Are you able to get 24hz/30hz 4:2:2 12-bit from any of the streaming apps on these devices? I have tried an Xbox One S and a FireStick 4k and am only able to get that from Plex on XBox One S. However, Plex seems to have reliability / buffering problems on XBox One .
> 
> For the FireStick 4k, I am able to get:
> 
> Netflix: 4K 60hz 4:2:0 8-bit (presumably Netflix only streams at 60 hz so this is prob the best possible)
> Amazon Prime Video: 4K 24hz 4:4:4 8-bit
> Plex: 4K 24hz 4:4:4 8-bit (no 12-bit)
> Kodi: 4k 24hz 8-bit
> In particular, I want to know if the NVidia Shield would do any better in terms of the goal of getting 24hz/30hz 4:2:2 12-bit video, and if it's worth the extra $$ over the Fire Stick.


I can play 4k 23.97hz hdr on Netflix with Shield.

Skickat från min SM-G960F via Tapatalk


----------



## mexxmann

Alex solomon said:


> I set the Nvidia to output 4K @ 23.976hz with match color space set to on and I get 4:2:2 12-bit video on the Epson.
> For me, the AI upscaling on Shield 2019 Pro is worth upgrading from Nvidia 2017 (which I still have) let alone the FireTV since I have a vast library of 720p and 1080p movies. I don't use the FireTV with the EPSON projector anymore. It has been moved to the bedroom and mated with Sony 900E HDR TV.





westbergjoakim said:


> I can play 4k 23.97hz hdr on Netflix with Shield.


Awesome, thanks for the confirmations @Alex solomon and @westbergjoakim !


----------



## bigdad56

Dark Rider said:


> I've got right at 3000 hours on my factory lamp, and just ordered my replacement from Pureland Supply, Epson Home Cinema 5040UB Projector Lamps | Home Cinema 5040UB Bulbs | Pureland Supply. I've had good experience ordering from them in the past for my previous projector, and they're a fair bit cheapter than the Epson branded lamp. They use the OEM (OSRAM) bulb in a generic but well made housing.


Thanks I'll definitely go check them out!


----------



## peclark102

Looking for some help. Pulling my hair out. Been using Harpervision and Oledurts settings for 4k discs. Thought I understood things but now confused. I have firecube, Denon AVR and also have 70" 1080p tv. The way I have it set up my firecube is tricked from my tv and auto sends 1080p SDR to the 5040. I like using Natural setting and been watching netflix, Disney plus, etc this way. I had tv accidentally unplugged and was watching The Boys and Star Wars and noticed so dark. Figured out firecube was sending 1080p HDR which is why it is so dark. My question is when getting a HDR signal and then setting dynamic range in 5040 to SDR to make it lighter, what is that doing? I assume that is not good to do and it is not the same as getting signal in as SDR signal? I like Natural setting and I know I don't get P3 then. I guess what are my options? If a person doesn't want to use HDR settings like Harpervision, etc., how does one convert incoming HDR to SDR. Also to add to my confusion I read how on Disney plus the Star Wars and Mandalorian aren't true HDR but instead are SDR wrapped in HDR wrapper.


----------



## peclark102

What would be the current best HD Fury product or other product to perform 4k HDR to 4k SDR conversion for Amazon, Netflix, etc.?


----------



## peclark102

What would be best streaming devices for Prime/Disney Plus, etc. where you can stream 4k and turn off HDR. It looks like the Firecube won't do it.


----------



## sleepingatsea

peclark102 said:


> What would be best streaming devices for Prime/Disney Plus, etc. where you can stream 4k and turn off HDR. It looks like the Firecube won't do it.


If you read a few pages back you'll see a some discussion around this. I opted for the Shield TV pro which can do either 4k60 SDR or 4k 24hz HDR using it's 'match frame rate' feature. Works great!


----------



## jbnpaul

Brettmckinney said:


> If you read a few pages back you'll see a some discussion around this. I opted for the Shield TV pro which can do either 4k60 SDR or 4k 24hz HDR using it's 'match frame rate' feature. Works great!


Does it also do hdr to SDR tonemapping?

I see the following in 8.2 release notes

‘Adds HDR to SDR color tone mapping’


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## peclark102

I am getting a Panasonic 420 and have researched settings people used such as Bt2020 SDR, etc. But I can't seem to find if most still use the curves with it such as Harpervision, Oledurt, etc. Are the curves still necessary with the 420's SDR and Optimizer on? How about when using Natural mode? (which I know I lose P3). Thanks


----------



## sleepingatsea

jbnpaul said:


> Does it also do hdr to SDR tonemapping?
> 
> I see the following in 8.2 release notes
> 
> ‘Adds HDR to SDR color tone mapping’
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've not really looked too much into it but I'm assuming yes as when a 4K HDR 60hz source is played, it outputs in SDR REC 709 so must be doing the tonemapping. I've used my 'Natural' settings with this and looks good. But I rarely do that as I prefer using 'match frame rate' and using the Harpervision settings for 4K HDR 24hz.



peclark102 said:


> I am getting a Panasonic 420 and have researched settings people used such as Bt2020 SDR, etc. But I can't seem to find if most still use the curves with it such as Harpervision, Oledurt, etc. Are the curves still necessary with the 420's SDR and Optimizer on? How about when using Natural mode? (which I know I lose P3). Thanks


Will come down to preference but the beauty of the BT2020 SDR is that if you like your 'Natural' setting, you can then use this for that source as well as 1080p bluray. I am using a 'Digital Cinema' mode with BT2020 SDR using custom curves and it looks very good, however if I want a bit more brightness I'll just use Natural.


----------



## peclark102

Brettmckinney, So with Panasonic with using Natural you use near stock setting, no gamma curve that you use for 1080p SDR?
Can you provide where you might have listed your curves for Digital Cinema? Thanks 
·


----------



## WildThing

I read nearly all the post regarding dust blob but did anybody sucessfully opened the projector and clean the LCD panels?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I know a lot of folks here are using a Panasonic UB420/820/9000 with these projectors, mainly for the HDR Optimizer. I also assume at least a few have had theirs ISF Calibrated. Is anyone still using HDR Optimizer after an ISF Calibration with a specific calibration saved for HDR content? I just had my 4000 calibrated (there's not much activity in the 4000 thread) and I thought I'd ask if anyone is still using HDR Optimizer post-calibration and, if so, what settings? More/less on any specific setting?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## reebok

I recently upgraded to surround sound from my powered bookshelf speakers. I am new to the AVR game. It is neat how it can control so many devices, but my problem is with the 5040UBe wireless HD box. The AVR (Denon X3300w) turns off the wireless box when I turn off the projector. I do not want this to happen. Besides completely disabling HDMI control, is there a way to prevent this? Thanks.


----------



## bigbadbob

Who/Where does everyone recommend for replacement lamps?
Thanks,
RG


----------



## tixie

bigbadbob said:


> Who/Where does everyone recommend for replacement lamps?
> Thanks,
> RG


👆 A few posts above has a recommendation from Dark Rider:








Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread


@Alex solomon : Are you able to get 24hz/30hz 4:2:2 12-bit from any of the streaming apps on these devices? I have tried an Xbox One S and a FireStick 4k and am only able to get that from Plex on XBox One S. However, Plex seems to have reliability / buffering problems on XBox One :(. For the...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Dylan

I recently got an LCD flat panel for my bedroom and I’m blown away by how good everything looks when converted to Dolby Vision by Apple TV. It makes my Epson 5040 feel pretty lackluster in my room with only moderate light control. This is a hopeless pursuit, right? The 5040 nor any projector under $5k is going to provide spectacular HDR without being in a very dark room.


----------



## inspector

Dylan said:


> I recently got an LCD flat panel for my bedroom and I’m blown away by how good everything looks when converted to Dolby Vision by Apple TV. It makes my Epson 5040 feel pretty lackluster in my room with only moderate light control. This is a hopeless pursuit, right? The 5040 nor any projector under $5k is going to provide spectacular HDR without being in a very dark room.


Not in my case. Using my 420 does very good when viewing HDR. Have never seen "Spectacular" HDR.


----------



## noob00224

Dylan said:


> I recently got an LCD flat panel for my bedroom and I’m blown away by how good everything looks when converted to Dolby Vision by Apple TV. It makes my Epson 5040 feel pretty lackluster in my room with only moderate light control. This is a hopeless pursuit, right? The 5040 nor any projector under $5k is going to provide spectacular HDR without being in a very dark room.


You can't fake diagonal/immersion with a projector. This is the main advantage.


----------



## kiransband

Hi All,
Need a quick suggestion here, recently my 5040UB Bulb Brightness has gone down significantly at 1100hrs. just under weeks before my warranty expires. I called epson and explained the problem, they asked me to check few things and asked me to updated the firmware and see if that fixes the issue. It didn't fix the issue.... Epson offered me a projector swap... I opted for replacement Lamp to give it a try if that doesn't work I thought of going for swap because it don't remove old one from ceiling and put the other one (pay for service guy to uninstall and install), Here are my questions...

1. Should I have gone for swap ?
2. Does epson send refurbished or new one for projector swap ?
3. Original one or Refurbished one which one is better ? Someone mentioned refurbished ones doesn't have same quality as original..!!
4. Will epson give an option to upgrade to a different model if I pay extra ?

Please let me know if you know little more about epson warranty.

Thank You.


----------



## bigdad56

So what setting do you guys put your 5040ub on for gaming? I typically keep mine on natural, but am interested to see what others use?


----------



## inspector

kiransband said:


> Hi All,
> Need a quick suggestion here, recently my 5040UB Bulb Brightness has gone down significantly at 1100hrs. just under weeks before my warranty expires. I called epson and explained the problem, they asked me to check few things and asked me to updated the firmware and see if that fixes the issue. It didn't fix the issue.... Epson offered me a projector swap... I opted for replacement Lamp to give it a try if that doesn't work I thought of going for swap because it don't remove old one from ceiling and put the other one (pay for service guy to uninstall and install), Here are my questions...
> 
> 1. Should I have gone for swap ?
> 2. Does epson send refurbished or new one for projector swap ?
> 3. Original one or Refurbished one which one is better ? Someone mentioned refurbished ones doesn't have same quality as original..!!
> 4. Will epson give an option to upgrade to a different model if I pay extra ?
> 
> Please let me know if you know little more about epson warranty.
> 
> Thank You.


If I were you and all the problems with refurbs, I'd ask if an upgrade for the xtra bucks is possible.


----------



## yourmando

It looks like my Epson has developed a "tint" to the top ~1/6 of the image. Has anyone else seen anything like this?

In my bad photo, you can see how there is a band at the top part of the white background. It's on every scene, and present regardless of video source or device. In that top 1/6 of the picture, everything is a bit darker, as if those top pixels are applying a tint. Most noticeable on light scenes.

More importantly, is there a fix, or am I doomed with a permanent "stripe" on the top of my screen until I upgrade my projector?

Thanks!


----------



## kiransband

I have seen this problem with PowerLite Home Cinema 6500ub and Epson PowerLite 8350 models where mirrors inside overtime with heat move and causes the band effect on the bottom or top. I personally fixed once for PowerLite Home Cinema 6500ub and problem came back again after 3 years of usage. I know how to fix for PowerLite Home Cinema 6500ub but not getting enough time to bring it down and work on it.

may be this video might help you


----------



## 02fx4dude

Hi all, I'm wanting to purchase an Epson 5040ub projector as an upgrade from a Panasonic AE2000. Looking around at owners reviews on best buy and Amazon I see a good amount of issues which appear to be power supply related. Looks like Epson will just swap the projector with a refurb (not necessarily a problem) but if the issue has not been resolved it seems you could be replacing a projector every few months if you have bad luck.

How common is this issue?

Edit: found a dedicated thread for this subject








Epson 5040/6040/9300 (UK) Power Supply Failure Rate


This poll is an attempt to find out what percentage of Epson 5040/6040 projectors have experienced the power supply failure extensively reported in the relevant unit thread. Is *every* buyer of these PJs experiencing failure of the power supply? Or is just a small percentage? Or even a large...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Stereojeff

Was very common two to three years ago. My contact at Epson told me during 2018 CEDIA Expo that the problem was fixed. From the few current complaints here, I believe him.

Jeff


----------



## b_scott

Is there any way to stop this whirling high pitched sound when high power is on? It’s driving me crazy. Is it a bad fan or something?


----------



## 02fx4dude

Stereojeff said:


> Was very common two to three years ago. My contact at Epson told me during 2018 CEDIA Expo that the problem was fixed. From the few current complaints here, I believe him.
> 
> Jeff


I don't see many recent posts here about the power supply issue. However, reading reviews on Amazon and Best Buy for the 5040ub and sorting by most recent I see plenty of reviews in the past year about power supply problems and multiple replacements. 

Doing the same for the 5050ub on Amazon and Best Buy I don't see similar reviews, but the 5050ub is slightly over my planned budget.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Last night while watching a movie, my HC 4000 suddenly lost light, shut off, closed lens cover, showed solid-orange LAMP light, blinking blue STATUS light, and power light off with fan running at full speed. Projector is refurbished, around 3 months old, and has ~600 hours on the bulb. I cleaned the filter (not really notably dirty) and re-seated the lamp which, under inspected, looked fine (no haze, discoloration, or broken filaments). Several unplugging and restarting would open shutter but not produce light, then after 2-4 minutes close the lens cover and give the same status/lamp/power light combination. 

Epson shipped out a replacement bulb today after a brief phone call and said they would replace it if the bulb swap doesn't fix it. What is the likelihood it's actually the bulb (no visible signs of damage/defect/failure), or is it more likely to be the common power-supply failure (even though it's a 3-month-old refurb)? 

I'm asking here because there's a lot more visibility than in the 4000 thread, and these are identical projectors, other than the UB panels. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## tibimakai

What the troubleshooting section says about that error(light combination)?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

tibimakai said:


> What the troubleshooting section says about that error(light combination)?


Lamp has a problem

Check the Lamp Hours in the *Info* menu to see if the lamp is burned out. Unplug the projector, wait for the lamp to cool down, and check if it is broken or installed incorrectly; reseat or replace the lamp as necessary
Clean or replace the air filter
Make sure the lamp cover is closed
If operating the projector at high altitude, turn on *High Altitude Mode*
If the problem persists, unplug the projector and contact Epson for help


----------



## dead2sin

Hey all! I've been noticing chunky colors in skin tones lately and I was curious if this was pretty normal due to the 10gbps limitation of the HDMI or if it was something else.

Attached are examples of HDR movies where the colors look like they are banded, most noticeable in shots where a face is well lit on one side and in the shadows on the other side of the face. 

In the pictures of Robin Wright's character, I used 3 different modes. They are the tuned profiles from one of the 5040ub threads (500 nits, 1000 nits and then a HDR High mode).

The pictures of Bucky are on the 500 nit configuration.

Thanks all!


----------



## b_scott

b_scott said:


> Is there any way to stop this whirling high pitched sound when high power is on? It’s driving me crazy. Is it a bad fan or something?


it’s doing this on all modes now. Anyone? It’s driving me crazy. This is a 5040 refurb I bought in April.


----------



## WynsWrld98

b_scott said:


> it’s doing this on all modes now. Anyone? It’s driving me crazy. This is a 5040 refurb I bought in April.


That's certainly not normal time for refurb roulette


----------



## monkaquinas

dead2sin said:


> Hey all! I've been noticing chunky colors in skin tones lately and I was curious if this was pretty normal due to the 10gbps limitation of the HDMI or if it was something else.
> 
> Attached are examples of HDR movies where the colors look like they are banded, most noticeable in shots where a face is well lit on one side and in the shadows on the other side of the face.
> 
> In the pictures of Robin Wright's character, I used 3 different modes. They are the tuned profiles from one of the 5040ub threads (500 nits, 1000 nits and then a HDR High mode).
> 
> The pictures of Bucky are on the 500 nit configuration.
> 
> Thanks all!
> 
> View attachment 3047072
> 
> View attachment 3047073
> 
> View attachment 3047074
> 
> 
> View attachment 3047075
> 
> View attachment 3047076


It would help if you could tell us the video source you are using: device and it's video setting.


----------



## dead2sin

monkaquinas said:


> It would help if you could tell us the video source you are using: device and it's video setting.


Yep! Its from a UHD Disc for Bladerunner 2049 using the Sony UBPX800.

I believe it is on natural? I'd have to find the thread.

Here is the info from the PJ itself:


----------



## sleepingatsea

bigdad56 said:


> So what setting do you guys put your 5040ub on for gaming? I typically keep mine on natural, but am interested to see what others use?


I've decided to skip HDR for gaming and so run my PS4 Pro in 4K (non-HDR) and use my Natural settings. Looks fantastic! Super crisp and bright. Love gaming on this projector.


----------



## blastermaster

Brettmckinney said:


> I've decided to skip HDR for gaming and so run my PS4 Pro in 4K (non-HDR) and use my Natural settings. Looks fantastic! Super crisp and bright. Love gaming on this projector.


Omigosh me too! I got hooked again on Forza 7 PC with my Logitech wheel. Playing video games on a scope screen is just amazing and the colours on this PJ just pop!


----------



## b_scott

blastermaster said:


> Omigosh me too! I got hooked again on Forza 7 PC with my Logitech wheel. Playing video games on a scope screen is just amazing and the colours on this PJ just pop!


why would a scope screen affect video games? they aren't in 2.40:1.


----------



## marco1975

anybody have got a calibration setting for 4k-HDR. in Digital cinema mode and kindly willing share? thanks.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

These are some of the most well-regarded settings... still, they're a jumping-off point, not gospel. You may need to make adjustments based on your screen color/gain, throw-distance, ambient lighting, latitude/longitude, political affiliation, cholesterol, and zodiac sign.


----------



## marco1975

Stephen Hopkins said:


> These are some of the most well-regarded settings... still, they're a jumping-off point, not gospel. You may need to make adjustments based on your screen color/gain, throw-distance, ambient lighting, latitude/longitude, political affiliation, cholesterol, and zodiac sign.


Thanks mate.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

At 1008 pages, this isn't the easiest thread to find past posts in... even knowing what I was looking for, it took a minute.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Stephen Hopkins said:


> Last night while watching a movie, my HC 4000 suddenly lost light, shut off, closed lens cover, showed solid-orange LAMP light, blinking blue STATUS light, and power light off with fan running at full speed. Projector is refurbished, around 3 months old, and has ~600 hours on the bulb. I cleaned the filter (not really notably dirty) and re-seated the lamp which, under inspected, looked fine (no haze, discoloration, or broken filaments). Several unplugging and restarting would open shutter but not produce light, then after 2-4 minutes close the lens cover and give the same status/lamp/power light combination.
> 
> Epson shipped out a replacement bulb today after a brief phone call and said they would replace it if the bulb swap doesn't fix it. What is the likelihood it's actually the bulb (no visible signs of damage/defect/failure), or is it more likely to be the common power-supply failure (even though it's a 3-month-old refurb)?
> 
> I'm asking here because there's a lot more visibility than in the 4000 thread, and these are identical projectors, other than the UB panels.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Replacement bulb from Epson arrived today... 5 calendar days after calling, 3 business days. Popped it in and it fired right up.

Once I got it fired up, I double-checked the lamp hours for the blown bulb and it was under 500 hours. I know this kind of things happens, but this is the first time I've had a bulb actually fail (as opposed to just dimming to the point of needing replacement). It makes me wonder if it wasn't replaced during the refurbishment and the lamp hours were simply reset... Even though the new bulb doesn't appear materially brighter than the one it replaced.

Thoughts?


----------



## b_scott

b_scott said:


> Is there any way to stop this whirling high pitched sound when high power is on? It’s driving me crazy. Is it a bad fan or something?


anyone else have this issue? Hoping maybe this is a fix I don't know about, before I have to ship my projector back.


----------



## bigdad56

blastermaster said:


> Omigosh me too! I got hooked again on Forza 7 PC with my Logitech wheel. Playing video games on a scope screen is just amazing and the colours on this PJ just pop!


Hmmmm I always thought that it would just look better no matter what with HDR. I'll have to try it without it and see what I think.


----------



## yourmando

kiransband said:


> I have seen this problem with PowerLite Home Cinema 6500ub and Epson PowerLite 8350 models where mirrors inside overtime with heat move and causes the band effect on the bottom or top. I personally fixed once for PowerLite Home Cinema 6500ub and problem came back again after 3 years of usage. I know how to fix for PowerLite Home Cinema 6500ub but not getting enough time to bring it down and work on it.
> 
> may be this video might help you


I missed this reply--thanks!

Shifted lens or mirrors due to heat does make sense. Had a couple of hot days recently.

That video is helpful. It also made me break out in sweats--that looks like a huge PITA. He basically took the entire thing apart to push the lens back in place, then put it all back together. Whew!

I may just let it be. The letterboxing in movies covers most of it, but it is annoying on bright and non-letterboxed scenes.


----------



## friendswithdave

Lens shift question: I searched for an answer on this thread but came up empty.

I am hoping to buy a used 5040UB and need to know the limits for the horizontal shift. My lens will be on a shelf 68" to the left of the center of the screen which will be 96" wide. Assuming I don't need but 25% of the vertical shift, will this likely work for me? I read this on the 5030UB page so it makes me think I should be fine "The lens shift has a total range of 3 image heights and 2 image widths, with the middle position putting the center of the lens at the center of the screen."

The lens shift for the 5030 appears to have a similar range to the 5040. Is there a calculator for this to tell for sure?


----------



## noob00224

friendswithdave said:


> Lens shift question: I searched for an answer on this thread but came up empty.
> 
> I am hoping to buy a used 5040UB and need to know the limits for the horizontal shift. My lens will be on a shelf 68" to the left of the center of the screen which will be 96" wide. Assuming I don't need but 25% of the vertical shift, will this likely work for me? I read this on the 5030UB page so it makes me think I should be fine "The lens shift has a total range of 3 image heights and 2 image widths, with the middle position putting the center of the lens at the center of the screen."
> 
> The lens shift for the 5030 appears to have a similar range to the 5040. Is there a calculator for this to tell for sure?


Placed links in this post.



noob00224 said:


> A more detailed description of the room can help.
> 
> A lot of projectors can project from the edge of the screen. That is top or bottom.
> If you're referring to side edge, I don't think it exists.
> Depending on the model, using lens shift may deteriorate the image.
> Keystone is software and not recommended.
> 
> Epson 4/5/6000 series in US/Canada and TW7000/9000 elsewhere (maybe some older models from other manufacturers) have a good amount of lens shift.
> After inputting the diagonal at the bottom of the screen there is section called lens shift:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 4010 Projection Calculator - Throw Distance and Screen Size
> 
> 
> Find screen size and throw distance for the Epson Home Cinema 4010 projector.
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorcentral.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The series is also has good lenses and reportedly no noticeable distortions when used close to 100%.
> 
> When using both vertical and horizontal lens shift the range decreases. Use this calculator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JACK LIU Projection Calculator, world's most intuitive projection calculator
> 
> 
> projection calculator with zoom and lens shift adjustment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.reviewtranslations.com


----------



## blastermaster

b_scott said:


> why would a scope screen affect video games? they aren't in 2.40:1.


Yes they are, if you own a PC you can


b_scott said:


> why would a scope screen affect video games? they aren't in 2.40:1.


Yes they are if you have a PC. You can custom set a resolution to match the 2.4:1 screen (2560x1080). 33% more screen width is amazing for gaming and one of the reasons I'm hesitant to get a PS5 and not just upgrade my graphics card.


----------



## TrekFX

yourmando said:


> I missed this reply--thanks!
> 
> Shifted lens or mirrors due to heat does make sense. Had a couple of hot days recently.
> 
> That video is helpful. It also made me break out in sweats--that looks like a huge PITA. He basically took the entire thing apart to push the lens back in place, then put it all back together. Whew!
> 
> I may just let it be. The letterboxing in movies covers most of it, but it is annoying on bright and non-letterboxed scenes.


I field-stripped 8350s a few times. But I had a backup unit in place. The 5040 et al series is a completely different playing field. I've studied the exploded diagrams and just kinda turn back! Maybe once the lid is off I'd change my mind but for now, with no backup 5040, hands off.


----------



## friendswithdave

Great info, @noob00224 thank you. It it frustrating that that comment from Projector Central is wrong "The lens shift has a total range of 3 image heights and 2 image widths, with the middle position putting the center of the lens at the center of the screen." This calculator shows less than 1 image width of horizontal shift.

I appreciate you sharing the info and links.


----------



## Grayson73

Stephen Hopkins said:


> These are some of the most well-regarded settings... still, they're a jumping-off point, not gospel. You may need to make adjustments based on your screen color/gain, throw-distance, ambient lighting, latitude/longitude, political affiliation, cholesterol, and zodiac sign.


Do you like these more than Adam's here? Projector Calibration (6040UB) - Second Look


----------



## blastermaster

Well, I bit the bullet and got a new graphics card for my PC and decided to hold off on the PS5 for now since I game on a scope screen. For those gamers here, what video settings do you use to send to the projector?


----------



## b_scott

blastermaster said:


> Yes they are if you have a PC. You can custom set a resolution to match the 2.4:1 screen (2560x1080). 33% more screen width is amazing for gaming and one of the reasons I'm hesitant to get a PS5 and not just upgrade my graphics card.


Oh interesting


----------



## b_scott

b_scott said:


> Is there any way to stop this whirling high pitched sound when high power is on? It’s driving me crazy. Is it a bad fan or something?


FYI Epson support said it's likely an internal issue and they're sending me a new one to swap. I hope there aren't other issues with the new one.... the PQ on my current one is perfect and I have heard horror stories of blotches and stuff in the lens.


----------



## WynsWrld98

b_scott said:


> FYI Epson support said it's likely an internal issue and they're sending me a new one to swap. I hope there aren't other issues with the new one.... the PQ on my current one is perfect and I have heard horror stories of blotches and stuff in the lens.


You could have sent your unit in for repair instead of playing refurb roulette I've done that.


----------



## b_scott

WynsWrld98 said:


> You could have sent your unit in for repair instead of playing refurb roulette I've done that.


then I would be without a projector during all that time. We use it daily, and most of my equipment is hooked to it. I mean if the new one has bad issues I'll just send that one back too.


----------



## WynsWrld98

b_scott said:


> then I would be without a projector during all that time. We use it daily, and most of my equipment is hooked to it. I mean if the new one has bad issues I'll just send that one back too.


Which is Refurb Roulette your choice...


----------



## b_scott

WynsWrld98 said:


> Which is Refurb Roulette your choice...


Kinda. But also what if they can't fix the problem in my current one? Doesn't seem like they had a definitive answer. I guess I'll just play roulette.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

If you let them authorize your card to cross-ship, it's usually only 3 business days for shipping, right? I was gearing up to start the process with my 4000, but the replacement bulb fixed it. Now I'm just waiting for run-in time before I have the ISF come out and re-check everything with the new bulb.


----------



## yifeirox

I have been testing my current firestick 4k and comparing with a newly purchased Nvidia shield stick 2019 with my 5040UB. Essentially it boils down to the following options for Netflix 4K:
Firestick 4k (no option to force 24hz)
SDR: 4:2:0 8bit BT.709 60hz
HDR: 4:2:0 8bit BT.2020 60hz
Shield 
SDR: 4:2:2 12bit BT.709 24hz or 4:2:0 (YUV) 8bit 709 60hz or 4:4:4 (RGB) 8bit 709 24-30hz (from what I understand, the latter is the better option for SDR)
HDR: 4:2:2 12bit BT.2020 24hz, no HDR at 60hz

What are the advantages for upgrading to the shield? is it just for the manual ability to switch to 12 bit HDR at 24hz?


----------



## b_scott

Stephen Hopkins said:


> If you let them authorize your card to cross-ship, it's usually only 3 business days for shipping, right? I was gearing up to start the process with my 4000, but the replacement bulb fixed it. Now I'm just waiting for run-in time before I have the ISF come out and re-check everything with the new bulb.


I called them two days ago and my new projector will be here tomorrow.


----------



## Nick Proell

Anyone else ever have issues with the lens memory not going back to the exact spot it was saved in? I like to switch from 2.39:1 to 16:9 frequently depending on what content I am watching. I have both lens positions saved where I want them but many times when I click the button to change aspect ratios, it always stops a few pixels off from where it should be.

Is the lens memory not perfect and this is common? Or is my projector somehow moving slightly? Any ideas? It is annoying having to go back and adjust the lens shift all the time.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I asked the same question a month or two back. The response I got was basically you have to "sneak up" on your lens position when setting it. Make slow, small movements in a single direction and if you over-shoot, back up and approach it from that same direction slowly again. This approach hasn't made mine 100% perfect at finding it every time it's recalled, but it has got it 95% of the way there.


----------



## Nick Proell

Stephen Hopkins said:


> I asked the same question a month or two back. The response I got was basically you have to "sneak up" on your lens position when setting it. Make slow, small movements in a single direction and if you over-shoot, back up and approach it from that same direction slowly again. This approach hasn't made mine 100% perfect at finding it every time it's recalled, but it has got it 95% of the way there.


That makes almost no sense why that would help, but I'll try it.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

If you're making large/fast movements and stopping quickly, it's apparently more difficult for the included circuitry to exactly index the point you're stopping it. If you're adjusting in multiple directions, there seems to be some play in the motor, gearing, belts, etc. that has to be taken up before it can again accurately index the location. It isn't super intuitive at first glance, but after listening to how the mechanism sounds during large movements vs. smaller movements and reversal of direction I can justify it in my head to a certain degree... but I'm just an Aerospace Engineer, so what do I know?


----------



## WynsWrld98

Stephen Hopkins said:


> If you're making large/fast movements and stopping quickly, it's apparently more difficult for the included circuitry to exactly index the point you're stopping it. If you're adjusting in multiple directions, there seems to be some play in the motor, gearing, belts, etc. that has to be taken up before it can again accurately index the location. It isn't super intuitive at first glance, but after listening to how the mechanism sounds during large movements vs. smaller movements and reversal of direction I can justify it in my head to a certain degree... but I'm just an Aerospace Engineer, so what do I know?


Do the competing JVCs and Sonys with this feature also work oddly like this?


----------



## Tibor Makai

It is like, when you have to take out the backlash on a milling machine? Always go from one direction, or go over and come back?


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Probably a pretty apt analogy.


----------



## b_scott

got my refurb roulette machine and it seems OK. Looks newer, doesn't have missing stickers. Hope everything continues to be OK.


----------



## Alex solomon

HELP!! My Epson 5040UB has developed some green cast on the right side of the screen , which only visible on white background like snow, gray-scale ramp etc. Is this something I can fix or should I call Epson. I bought the projector last year direct form Epson so I still have one year warranty left on it. How should I proceed?


----------



## b_scott

contact them and have them ship you a new one to replace it.


----------



## b_scott

has anyone calibrated their 5040ub with a Spyder X Elite? I'm wonder how that would work. Because you would have to I guess get offsets from the software to plug into your projector, if you were using it on any other input than PC.


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> has anyone calibrated their 5040ub with a Spyder X Elite? I'm wonder how that would work. Because you would have to I guess get offsets from the software to plug into your projector, if you were using it on any other input than PC.


To manually calibrate a projector for a specific source, you would display a calibration pattern from that source, and measure the projector’s output using a meter connected to the PC.


----------



## b_scott

Dominic Chan said:


> To manually calibrate a projector for a specific source, you would display a calibration pattern from that source, and measure the projector’s output using a meter connected to the PC.


Thanks. So I would have to manually adjust it with my eyes on a PC? Or is there software that will tell me the offsets to use to get it to "correct" color and contrast?


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> Thanks. So I would have to manually adjust it with my eyes on a PC? Or is there software that will tell me the offsets to use to get it to "correct" color and contrast?


I don’t understand your question. Aren’t you already looking at HCFR?


----------



## b_scott

Dominic Chan said:


> I don’t understand your question. Aren’t you already looking at HCFR?


yes, but I don't know how it works. I would want to change the settings on my 5040, but not sure how I can do that with the software. Seems like HCFR is what people use - I will have to check out some guides on it. I'm used to Spyder auto calibration the monitor it's hooked to and adjusting itself, rather than me changing settings through a menu.


----------



## marcosphoto

Please, looking for some feedback here - got crickets only when asking about this problem (this will be 3rd time). Can you good folks take a very close look at the edges of your screens for me to see if it's a problem with my 820, 5040 or hopefully everybodies? Running low on warranty time and I know these projectors have a lot of issues compared to the older panasonics. Here is a cut/paste from when I last put it out there....

"The only thing I see on my BNIB unit is a thin square outline around the whole outside of the image - very strange. I've asked on this forum about it but never got a reply of any kind. It is not a solid colour, more like a reflection of the portion of good image to the inside of it. It does not hit you in the face because it's not a solid colour but seems to be comprised of the same image characteriscs that are displayed on the screen. If you look very closely, it is there all the time and sometimes it's quite noticeable along the top because of the top usually being sky or something light like that. I have a 125" screen, the outline is about maybe 1/2" wide. Nothing diagonal through the middle of the image like you describe. I want to send it in for inspection, but feel more often than not people are even less happy after their 5040 has been repaired or refurbished. Appears to operate well otherwise."


----------



## BradP

My 5040UB developed the green blob issue, 6 months left in warranty and Epson sent out a refurb. Great service as always. Lamp hours show 0, anyone know if they put a brand new bulb into refurbs?

Having some trouble getting top left corner to square up, hopefully just my poor mount leveling adjustments and not a defect.


----------



## Alex solomon

BradP said:


> My 5040UB developed the green blob issue, 6 months left in warranty and Epson sent out a refurb. Great service as always. Lamp hours show 0, anyone know if they put a brand new bulb into refurbs?
> 
> Having some trouble getting top left corner to square up, hopefully just my poor mount leveling adjustments and not a defect.


What is a green blob issue? My Epson developed a green cast over 1/2 side of the screen. It is very slight and mostly visible when displaying white bright images. I can spot the pronounced green if I look hard for it even when playing video. I still have 8 months warranty left so I was waiting to see if it gets worse and if it does I will call Epson before my warranty expires.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Alex solomon said:


> What is a green blob issue? My Epson developed a green cast over 1/2 side of the screen. It is very slight and mostly visible when displaying white bright images. I can spot the pronounced green if I look hard for it even when playing video. I still have 8 months warranty left so I was waiting to see if it gets worse and if it does I will call Epson before my warranty expires.


A minor panel uniformity is normal. Epson even provides an adjustment to compensate for it. 
The green blob, on the other hand, is a different issue (dust or panel).


----------



## pbc

Is the green blob a defect in the original 5040s that has been identified and corrected sort of thing? I.e. If one purchased a refurb or gets one in exchange for their 5040 is the likelihood of the green blob returning pretty much nil because the issue was rectified?


----------



## Grayson73

Mine dust blobs looked like this so I had it replace. Overexposed to show them more clearly.


----------



## pbc

Was it some sort of "seal" issue with the lens possibly?


----------



## Alex solomon

Dominic Chan said:


> A minor panel uniformity is normal. Epson even provides an adjustment to compensate for it.
> The green blob, on the other hand, is a different issue (dust or panel).


Thanks Dominic. I will check the owners manual on how to adjust for panel uniformity. This issue was not there before, it started a few weeks ago. So panel uniformity can happen anytime?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Alex solomon said:


> Thanks Dominic. I will check the owners manual on how to adjust for panel uniformity. This issue was not there before, it started a few weeks ago. So panel uniformity can happen anytime?


I’m not sure, although it can also be one of those “once seen, cannot be unseen” cases.


----------



## Alex solomon

Dominic Chan said:


> I’m not sure, although it can also be one of those “once seen, cannot be unseen” cases.


I hear but it was not there before in my case. I know this for sure because I calibrate my projector with a meter every 200 hours and I can't tell you how many times I had 100 IRE Test patterns displayed and never seen the green cast. Now not only I notice it on test patters but I can tell when video is playing if I look for it.


----------



## inspector

I keep thinking my lucky stars that my 6040 has been perfect since I bought it in 2017!


----------



## roland6465

pbc said:


> Was it some sort of "seal" issue with the lens possibly?


That's the problem with Epson pj's. The lens housing isn't sealed, and the exhaust draws dust from the intake past the lens assembly, and out the other side.


----------



## WynsWrld98

roland6465 said:


> That's the problem with Epson pj's. The lens housing isn't sealed, and the exhaust draws dust from the intake past the lens assembly, and out the other side.


I've owned the 6010, 5030 and 5040 all back to back only display device in the house never a dust blob. No air cleaner and questionable frequency between house cleanings.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Guys I always get confused with the bandwidth thing but I was reading a review for the new PS5 and apparently they have a option for 4k -1 or -2 which effects the chroma sampling. So goes from full 4:4:4 to either 4:2:0 or 2:2:0. So does this mean we can run 4k60 hdr now at lower bitrate?

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## TrekFX

roland6465 said:


> That's the problem with Epson pj's. The lens housing isn't sealed, and the exhaust draws dust from the intake past the lens assembly, and out the other side.


When I received my first refurb (the price was just too good to pass on at the time... now not so much), it was immediately obvious that the optics path was compromised. The interior lens surfaces were heavily contaminated with dust, and the external surfaces of the lens opening were heavily coated with dust and what looked like pollen.... this thing had to have been running for 10,000 hours. Naturally I replaced it with another refurb and to be completely honest I am ECSTATIC with the "new" refurb. Took me months to dial it in (just because I'm a bit OCD in that department... also because I watch a lot of B&W movies and TV and greyscale/uniformity anomalies really reveal themselves there). Anyway, I observed that while in operation a lot of air was being sucked in through the lens area rather than the actual filtered intake, this by simply observing the flight of dust in the high-intensity projected light beam.

I just grabbed a long strip of toilet tissue, lightly wadded it and made a "filter" around the lens that didn't interfere with any of the mechanical operations. Problem solved.

If you ask what brand of tissue I used I will say you're more OCD than me !!!!


----------



## inspector

PM sent


----------



## mrpandahead

I saw some earlier posts on this, but does anyone have any luck using the hdfury vertex or vertex2 to get dolby vision content on the 5040ub? I'm going to get a nvidia shield pro which outputs dolby vision, and it seems like there is a big difference in quality when the hdfury vertex2 is used to send dolby vision content to the projector. I saw other projectors but not the 5040ub on there. I assume it's a little more complicated because of the hdmi bandwidth limitations?
I'm looking at this site and the corresponding posts. Enjoy Dynamic DV content from LLDV source on any HDR10 display. | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI

If anyone's gotten this working, what exact settings did you put in the vertex2? And is it worth it over regular hdr through the nvidia shield pro?


----------



## by96

mrpandahead said:


> I saw some earlier posts on this, but does anyone have any luck using the hdfury vertex or vertex2 to get dolby vision content on the 5040ub? I'm going to get a nvidia shield pro which outputs dolby vision, and it seems like there is a big difference in quality when the hdfury vertex2 is used to send dolby vision content to the projector. I saw other projectors but not the 5040ub on there. I assume it's a little more complicated because of the hdmi bandwidth limitations?
> I'm looking at this site and the corresponding posts. Enjoy Dynamic DV content from LLDV source on any HDR10 display. | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI
> 
> If anyone's gotten this working, what exact settings did you put in the vertex2? And is it worth it over regular hdr through the nvidia shield pro?


I did it recently with an Integral2 and now have moved up to a Vertex2. There is a forum thread here that has tons of information:









Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? This is a HDFury DV LLDV EDID exploit of the Dolby Vision Profile 5 layer included in the DV spec for display manufacturers and models like the Sony A1 OLED. This thread is duplicating Dave's experience using the HDFury Vertex...




www.avsforum.com





The main thing is choosing _Custom 10 - Sony A1 LLDV BT2020_ - (if you have the latest firmware) under Custom on the EDID tab. There is also a box to check on the HDR/AVI tab: _Use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV_. This will tell your PJ to use HDR anytime LLDV is sent. Just set your Epson PJ to Auto for SDR or HDR.

I am using LLDV for my AppleTV and really like it. I still use SDR2020 for my Panny 820.


----------



## yourmando

mrpandahead said:


> I saw some earlier posts on this, but does anyone have any luck using the hdfury vertex or vertex2 to get dolby vision content on the 5040ub? I'm going to get a nvidia shield pro which outputs dolby vision, and it seems like there is a big difference in quality when the hdfury vertex2 is used to send dolby vision content to the projector. I saw other projectors but not the 5040ub on there. I assume it's a little more complicated because of the hdmi bandwidth limitations?
> I'm looking at this site and the corresponding posts. Enjoy Dynamic DV content from LLDV source on any HDR10 display. | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI
> 
> If anyone's gotten this working, what exact settings did you put in the vertex2? And is it worth it over regular hdr through the nvidia shield pro?


Yes, the Vertex2 works to allow the 5040ub to use the Dolby Vision dynamic range metadata. Yes, you will need a device that can output dolby vision, such as your Shield Pro. But you also need the HDFury because otherwise your projector EDID will say it doesn't support Dolby Vision, and you won't get the additional dynamic range metadata, which your projector can indeed use.

The simplest setup to access LLDV to your HDR10 Epson 5040ub, IMO, is:

1. On the EDID tab, select the "custom" radio box and select EDID 10 [BT1010] in the dropdown
2. On the HDR/AVI tab, in the HDR metadata generator section, select the checkbox "Use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV"

That's it. Now your projector will use the additional LLDV dynamic range data.

You will not run into bandwidth limitations with movies, shows, etc. It's mainly some of the latest games that can exceed the bandwidth of the Epson 5040ub, but you can use the same device to downsample and get around those limitations as well, as detailed here (here @mase1981 use the HDFury linker to access all Xbox One X content, which can also be done on the Vertex2).

Is it worth it over regular HDR? I think it's worth it. It's not mind blowing, but easy to notice differences if you compare the same content with and without access to the dolby vision metadata. Not sure if the $$ would be worth it to you. But I like that I am fully using the HDR that I paid for, and getting more life out of my current projector without feeling the strong need to upgrade. Gives me more time to wait for more significant features. Some say that it's a better upgrade than 1080p to 4k.

As you know, without the additional metadata, the dynamic range is fixed for a whole program. So one really bright scene in an otherwise dark show will really limit the dynamic range for many scenes. But now you can access scene by scene or even frame by frame dynamic range which would otherwise be thrown away, getting a result close to what the creator intended.

Finally, on my Apple TV 4k, there is a setting to "match content" and "match framerate." I'm not familiar with the Shield Pro, but you'll want to use the equivalent settings. This will let your projector switch framerate, etc to match the program material, rather than letting the Apple TV/Shield Pro upsample. So if you have 4k LLDV content at 24 fps, you won't let the device always keep you at 60fps for all content. You should be seeing the vertex2 on screen display show different metadata for each show you watch, with a brief pause as the projector switches modes.


----------



## mrpandahead

Thanks so much for the quick reply! If I'm going to go this route with hdfury, then should I be getting the vertex2 vs the vertex? What's the difference?

Sorry, also with the two posted replies, one said to use the _Custom 10 - Sony A1 LLDV BT2020_
Is that what I should be doing on the settings? 
Another question - on the linked page in AVS forum for LLDV, some of the posts indicate some manual numbers that need to be added in, is that something I need to do for the 5040UB as well?


----------



## by96

I’m not sure of all the differences, but I believe only the Vertex2 and other newer devices allow the automatic switching to HDR when LLDV is sent. That is why I upgraded from the Integral2 to the Vertex2. If you use the Vertex, you have to switch to HDR manually in the PJ. 

The Vertex2 also uses the new web interface which I prefer to hooking up a PC. I think the Vertex doesn’t have the new interface. 

And the Vertex2 has four inputs instead of two, and a third audio only output. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## by96

mrpandahead said:


> Thanks so much for the quick reply! If I'm going to go this route with hdfury, then should I be getting the vertex2 vs the vertex? What's the difference?
> 
> Sorry, also with the two posted replies, one said to use the _Custom 10 - Sony A1 LLDV BT2020_
> Is that what I should be doing on the settings?
> Another question - on the linked page in AVS forum for LLDV, some of the posts indicate some manual numbers that need to be added in, is that something I need to do for the 5040UB as well?


The manual numbers are for JVC PJs. For our Epsons, Custom 10 is the best option. And yes, use Custom 10 even though it says Sony. The name should change soon to something more generic. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## yourmando

mrpandahead said:


> Sorry, also with the two posted replies, one said to use the _Custom 10 - Sony A1 LLDV BT2020_
> Is that what I should be doing on the settings?


Yes, if you do exactly the 2 steps I posted above, it is the simplest way (again, IMO) to get access LLDV. You don't need to do anything else.



mrpandahead said:


> Another question - on the linked page in AVS forum for LLDV, some of the posts indicate some manual numbers that need to be added in, is that something I need to do for the 5040UB as well?


There are many other ways set it up, but no it is not required to enter any numbers manually, unless you're doing an advanced setup with custom calibrations or other special circumstances. I just highlighted the easiest way


----------



## mrpandahead

Sorry also for the 5040ub does this require that I have digital cinema mode on for the wide gamut filter? Or can I use bright cinema?


----------



## by96

mrpandahead said:


> Sorry also for the 5040ub does this require that I have digital cinema mode on for the wide gamut filter? Or can I use bright cinema?


I believe you can use bright cinema too, but hopefully others will confirm. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Alex solomon

by96 said:


> I did it recently with an Integral2 and now have moved up to a Vertex2. There is a forum thread here that has tons of information:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? This is a HDFury DV LLDV EDID exploit of the Dolby Vision Profile 5 layer included in the DV spec for display manufacturers and models like the Sony A1 OLED. This thread is duplicating Dave's experience using the HDFury Vertex...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main thing is choosing _Custom 10 - Sony A1 LLDV BT2020_ - (if you have the latest firmware) under Custom on the EDID tab. There is also a box to check on the HDR/AVI tab: _Use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV_. This will tell your PJ to use HDR anytime LLDV is sent. Just set your Epson PJ to Auto for SDR or HDR.
> 
> I am using LLDV for my AppleTV and really like it. I still use SDR2020 for my Panny 820.


I have Nvidia Shield Pro and Apple 4k TV and the Linker I recently bought. Is it possible to have the same setup with the Linker? If so, is the instruction any different.


by96 said:


> I did it recently with an Integral2 and now have moved up to a Vertex2. There is a forum thread here that has tons of information:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? This is a HDFury DV LLDV EDID exploit of the Dolby Vision Profile 5 layer included in the DV spec for display manufacturers and models like the Sony A1 OLED. This thread is duplicating Dave's experience using the HDFury Vertex...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The main thing is choosing _Custom 10 - Sony A1 LLDV BT2020_ - (if you have the latest firmware) under Custom on the EDID tab. There is also a box to check on the HDR/AVI tab: _Use custom HDR for TX0 and TX1 when input is LLDV_. This will tell your PJ to use HDR anytime LLDV is sent. Just set your Epson PJ to Auto for SDR or HDR.
> 
> I am using LLDV for my AppleTV and really like it. I still use SDR2020 for my Panny 820.


I have Nvidia Shield Pro and Apple 4k TV and bought a Linker I recently. Is it possible to have the same setup with the Linker? If so, is the instruction any different. Thanks


----------



## by96

Alex solomon said:


> I have Nvidia Shield Pro and Apple 4k TV and the Linker I recently bought. Is it possible to have the same setup with the Linker? If so, is the instruction any different.
> 
> 
> I have Nvidia Shield Pro and Apple 4k TV and bought a Linker I recently. Is it possible to have the same setup with the Linker? If so, is the instruction any different. Thanks


I don't know if it will work on the Linker. I only had the Linker briefly and did not know about this method when I had it. I would suggest asking on this thread:









Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


I keep getting this error? FW UPLOAD FAILED - VERTEX2 BUSY/INCORRECT FW - SEND AGAIN




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Alex solomon

by96 said:


> I don't know if it will work on the Linker. I only had the Linker briefly and did not know about this method when I had it. I would suggest asking on this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> 
> I keep getting this error? FW UPLOAD FAILED - VERTEX2 BUSY/INCORRECT FW - SEND AGAIN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Thanks. Hopefully someone read this and chime in.


----------



## by96

I have a question for the group. I have a 6040ub and just bought a lens cleaning kit. I followed the directions in the PJ manual but after cleaning the lens, there is either some large smudge that won't come off, or alternatively, I removed some outer coating on the lens. I used the brush, lens paper, and the lens spray on a fiber cloth, all designed for lenses. The manual specifically indicates using lens paper and spray on a cloth.

I called Epson about the smudge, but I also told them about a red blob I have, so they are replacing the PJ (under warranty) for the blob. They really didn't offer me any thoughts on the smudge. But I don't want this to happen again. What could I have done and does anyone have any ideas? It doesn't seem to impact the image at all.

Thanks. I will obviously avoid cleaning the lens as much as possible, but I am concerned about why this happened.

Update - The more I look at the "smudge," the more it looks like an outer coating of something came off, as opposed to a smudge being added.


----------



## audiobomb

I got some bad news for people wanting to use the HD Fury Linker with their Epson projector and Xbox Series X - I am able to get the Xbox to recognize the signal as HDR, but a lot of games don’t work (some do, some don’t) - they just go to a blank screen when they load. Gears Tactics is one of them, Borderlands is another. I’m sure there are more. Might be any HDR game. They work fine without the linker installed. If anyone finds a workaround or encounters the same issues, I would be very interested to hear from you.

Edit:
Looks like I spoke too soon. I have it working now! It does go to a black screen for several seconds, but eventually the signal comes up.

4K 60hz HDR looks really good. The games look awesome.


----------



## mrpandahead

Would you mind sharing your settings for the linker with your 5040ub? Or are there standard settings for the epson?


----------



## audiobomb

mrpandahead said:


> Would you mind sharing your settings for the linker with your 5040ub? Or are there standard settings for the epson?


I originally got it working with the #3 Default configuration on page 11 of the manual. If you see it states it is for this projector. Basically I just followed the instructions on that page.

However, I am still having some issues. To get around the issues, it may require a firmware update. I am not sure. Hoping more chime in with their experiences.

I am posting updates to the HD Fury Linker thread: HDFURY Linker owners thread


----------



## imureh

Hi all, been trying to read through some of this thread but over a 1000 pages is going to take some time... I have just picked up a refurb 6040ub and am coming from an old Epson 6500ub. I researched some of the recommended settings and went with them but for some reason, I am not totally blown away as I was expecting to be coming from a 10-12 year old projector. My screen is a very basic white one from visual apex. The player used is Oppo 203. Could the screen be holding the projector back? I mean the image looks better but not by a whole lot. Thanks


----------



## inspector

PM sent


----------



## Tibor Makai

Inspector, could you please send me your settings as well? I'm just starting to setup my projector, that I have purchased a year ago. I have just finished my garage.


----------



## inspector

Tibor Makai said:


> Inspector, could you please send me your settings as well? I'm just starting to setup my projector, that I have purchased a year ago. I have just finished my garage.


On the way!


----------



## Tibor Makai

Thank you very much!


----------



## mrepella

Has anyone been able to get the PS5 to display 4K with HDR turned on with their 5040ub? Mine keeps giving me a message that my TV does not support 4k resolution and HDR at the same time. 

I have a 5040ub with the 1.14 firmware installed. I connect the PS5 directly to HDMI input 1 with an 18gb HDMI cable. I'm not really proficient with the tech talk I've seen in this thread. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had luck getting the PS5 to putput both 4k and HDR at the same time or if it's just me. If it's just me then any guesses on what I'm doing wrong.


----------



## Grayson73

mrepella said:


> Has anyone been able to get the PS5 to display 4K with HDR turned on with their 5040ub? Mine keeps giving me a message that my TV does not support 4k resolution and HDR at the same time.
> 
> I have a 5040ub with the 1.14 firmware installed. I connect the PS5 directly to HDMI input 1 with an 18gb HDMI cable. I'm not really proficient with the tech talk I've seen in this thread. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had luck getting the PS5 to putput both 4k and HDR at the same time or if it's just me. If it's just me then any guesses on what I'm doing wrong.


5040UB cannot accept an 18gb signal. That's why many of us have bought the HDFURY Linker, to get it down to 4k60 HDR 4:2:0 8-bit or 4k24/4k30 4:2:2 12-bit


----------



## mrepella

Grayson73 said:


> 5040UB cannot accept an 18gb signal. That's why many of us have bought the HDFURY Linker, to get it down to 4k60 HDR 4:2:0 8-bit or 4k24/4k30 4:2:2 12-bit


Is there a specific model you recommend? Also, any thoughts on if this is something that Sony could eventually fix with a system update? I ask because the PS4Pro had no problem doing 4K and HDR.


----------



## Grayson73

mrepella said:


> Is there a specific model you recommend? Also, any thoughts on if this is something that Sony could eventually fix with a system update? I ask because the PS4Pro had no problem doing 4K and HDR.


I'm not familiar with the PS5 to know if it can output those modes.

This is the one many have bought, and there is a preset mode for the 5040UB:








Linker 4K60 4:4:4 600MHz | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI


UHD and HDR scaler and HDCP converter, connect any HDMI/HDCP 1.x device in HDMI/HDCP 2.x setup




www.hdfury.com





HDFury also said you can get it cheaper than that:








HDFURY Linker owners thread


Hey HDFury, I know it’s not out yet, but the specs are available. Any idea how the PS5 might play with the Epson 5040 using the Linker?




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Grayson73

Also, if you read the latest posts in the Linker thread, some are having problems with the Xbox Series X. I wonder if the PS5 is in the same boat.


----------



## mrepella

Grayson73 said:


> Also, if you read the latest posts in the Linker thread, some are having problems with the Xbox Series X. I wonder if the PS5 is in the same boat.


Thanks for the info. I emailed the HDfury guy in the other thread. I'll see if he gets back to me with a better price.


----------



## Tibor Makai

Please let us know, how it goes. I'm interested as well.


----------



## audiobomb

Grayson73 said:


> Also, if you read the latest posts in the Linker thread, some are having problems with the Xbox Series X. I wonder if the PS5 is in the same boat.


The PS5 has similar but different issues - I commented in the Linker thread. I have both the XSX and PS5 and Linker and 5040UB. The new systems do not play well with the Linker. Someday a firmware update for the Linker may fix it, but it is not something that is getting fixed by Sony or Microsoft. Looks like a couple people are having luck with a $30 HDMI switcher put into the chain. I have that ordered and will post back if that fixes it for me.


----------



## mrepella

audiobomb said:


> The PS5 has similar but different issues - I commented in the Linker thread. I have both the XSX and PS5 and Linker and 5040UB. The new systems do not play well with the Linker. Someday a firmware update for the Linker may fix it, but it is not something that is getting fixed by Sony or Microsoft. Looks like a couple people are having luck with a $30 HDMI switcher put into the chain. I have that ordered and will post back if that fixes it for me.


Good to know. Keep us updated


----------



## bobs77vet

HI guys/gals I am having a problem getting my FIOS remote to turn off the epson 6040 , I have a denon avr x6500h.

I had the FIOs remote set up originally that the fios remote would turn off the denon and the epson but I switched cable set top boxes around and now the Fios remote only turns off the denon and not the epson. i have tried repeatedly different combinations in the HDMI menus of the three devices but to no avail, what am i missing? thanks bob


----------



## b_scott

what's everyone using as Epson HDR settings for the Xbox Series X / PS5?

I'm using the Fury Linker so it's getting 8 bit 4:2:0 4K/60

Also, here is how to get your Series X to do 4K60 HDR gaming:









HDFURY Linker owners thread


Hello @audiobomb and @b_scott , thank you so much for the info! I just got the Xbox Series X and I own an Epson TW9400 (I think its the 6050 in the USA) and I also have the problem that I can get only this video modes on the XSX: Will the HD Fury linker fix my problem, too? Thank you so much :)




www.avsforum.com





I will try on my PS5 when it gets here.


----------



## imureh

I just got a refurb 6040ub, what is the latest firmware version? I did not find it on the Epson website under the product page


----------



## b_scott

I really hate that you can't associate HDR or SDR with Memory settings. It's a whole bunch of hoops to jump through just to change to HDR and back. I don't understand why they couldn't just have a setting to auto change when HDR is detected.


----------



## Tibor Makai

Firmware download page(1.14 is the latest):





Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US


Download projector firmware updates for select Epson projectors.




epson.com


----------



## abraxas

Tibor Makai said:


> Firmware download page(1.14 is the latest):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US
> 
> 
> Download projector firmware updates for select Epson projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> epson.com


Thanks, I got my refurb yesterday and it had 1.14.


----------



## Grayson73

b_scott said:


> I really hate that you can't associate HDR or SDR with Memory settings. It's a whole bunch of hoops to jump through just to change to HDR and back. I don't understand why they couldn't just have a setting to auto change when HDR is detected.


Are you talking about manually needing to load the SDR and HDR memory setting? It would definitely be nice if you could assign a memory setting to a SDR signal and another to HDR signal.


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> Are you talking about manually needing to load the SDR and HDR memory setting? It would definitely be nice if you could assign a memory setting to a SDR signal and another to HDR signal.


Correct, the Signal. I think I'm going to have to set up long sequences on my Harmony Elite. I recently switched from Hapervision SDR (faux HDR) to actually using HDR - but now I have to switch the signal. It's dumb.


----------



## Grayson73

Yeah, mine is always on SDR setting, and I only know to change to HDR settings because it looks dark haha. I wish there was a button the remote that told us what signal was being received, rather than having to go to Menu > Info


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> Yeah, mine is always on SDR setting, and I only know to change to HDR settings because it looks dark haha. I wish there was a button the remote that told us what signal was being received, rather than having to go to Menu > Info


it pops up on the screen "HDR" when an HDR signal is received.

But I've found that the Harpervision settings just take the HDR signal and blows out the color so it corrects it to basically look like an SDR signal. Which isn't really HDR, it's just correcting what is being sent to level it out so you don't have to switch the Signal. Which sucks.

I wish the projector would just swap to an HDR setting when the signal changes via "Auto". Otherwise what is Auto even for?


----------



## Jameshtx

spirithockey79 said:


> If you have the Oppo 203, press and hold the info button on the Oppo remote for a few seconds and a screen will pop up. It will show you the output detail from the Oppo and if you scroll down you'll see what Oppo is sending the 5040 based on your Oppo settings. The info on the 5040 will show it as well.
> 
> Also, best settings for 5040 seems to be 4:2:2 12bit. In order to use FI on the 5040, you have to set the Oppo setting to Source Direct. I think you can also use custom 1080p. I have my 203 set to Custom UHD, 4:2:2 and then Auto for the bit depth.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Just read this old post. What does the abbre "FI" stands for?


----------



## sleepingatsea

b_scott said:


> Correct, the Signal. I think I'm going to have to set up long sequences on my Harmony Elite. I recently switched from Hapervision SDR (faux HDR) to actually using HDR - but now I have to switch the signal. It's dumb.


What settings are you using for HDR? I've stuck with HV for simplicity but still keen to try proper HDR if can get it right!

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Odysea

b_scott said:


> what's everyone using as Epson HDR settings for the Xbox Series X / PS5?
> 
> I'm using the Fury Linker so it's getting 8 bit 4:2:0 4K/60
> 
> Also, here is how to get your Series X to do 4K60 HDR gaming:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDFURY Linker owners thread
> 
> 
> Hello @audiobomb and @b_scott , thank you so much for the info! I just got the Xbox Series X and I own an Epson TW9400 (I think its the 6050 in the USA) and I also have the problem that I can get only this video modes on the XSX: Will the HD Fury linker fix my problem, too? Thank you so much :)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try on my PS5 when it gets here.


Is there input lag with the linker? Been curious about 4k gaming if shooters feel clunky or not.


----------



## b_scott

Odysea said:


> Is there input lag with the linker? Been curious about 4k gaming if shooters feel clunky or not.


I haven’t noticed any. Been getting high scoring games in online halo.


----------



## b_scott

Brettmckinney said:


> What settings are you using for HDR? I've stuck with HV for simplicity but still keen to try proper HDR if can get it right!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


It’s a mix of stuff I’ve seen from oledurt and others. Still tweaking and everyone’s screen material and lighting is different. I’ll try to take some shots later


----------



## Grayson73

Jameshtx said:


> Just read this old post. What does the abbre "FI" stands for?


Frame Interpolation


----------



## toddcg

I had a green spot pop up yesterday on my 6040. It appears that there are two now. One lighter colored. Wondering if y’all have any advice. I think I’m beyond warranty? Bought it in August of 2016


----------



## Odysea

I haven't had this problem myself, but I've heard it's due to dust. Perhaps do some researching on green blobs and dust with the 5040 and 6040ub (same projector but might get more results with the 5).

Never hurts to try contacting epson though, if you get a really friendly representative you never know what could happen haha









Epson 5040 whites have pink and green blotches


Recently in white scenes, my Epson 5040ub is displaying faint pink and greenish blobs. No idea what is causing this. Any advice? Thanks.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## b_scott

Anyone figure out how to get 4k60 with HDR on PS5?


----------



## Jameshtx

Sorry if this has been brought up before. Is the 5050ub $2800 better then my 5040ub picture quality wise? Nothing is wrong with my 5040 however in the event it dies on me, I'd like to stay with the Epson brand. Its more in my price range and i'm happy with the quality.


----------



## Odysea

They're essentially the same but the 5050UB has a HDMI 2.0 port allowing 18gbps throughput for hdr without needing to fiddle with a linker and whatnot. 100 more lumens if you're really trying to squeeze out brightness I guess


----------



## john hunter

The 5050 has improved 4k shifting and tone mapping.
Go for it if you get the chance.


----------



## imureh

Jameshtx said:


> Sorry if this has been brought up before. Is the 5050ub $2800 better then my 5040ub picture quality wise? Nothing is wrong with my 5040 however in the event it dies on me, I'd like to stay with the Epson brand. Its more in my price range and i'm happy with the quality.


That was something I was wondering in a sense, 6040ub vs 5050ub but the price I got for a refurb at under $1600 was too good to pass up. That put it at about a $700 difference to the 5050


----------



## Odysea

Yeah, occasionally they pop up on epsons site for $1,150 IIRC. They even had a deal where you could claim a spare bulb ($200 value) as well. I think the 5050ub would be nice for the HDR capabilities, but epson definitely gives good deals on old goods.

I'd be curious if the pixel shifting and tone mapping is actually something perceivable or very minor. Will have to do some research

Thankfully the unit I received was in good condition, I've heard horror stories.

Edit:
Looks like the site has 1500 for refurb now, that definitely went up right? I could have sworn I paid $1,150-$1,250... Might go hunt down the receipt out of curiosity


----------



## b_scott

Yes 1150 for 5040 and 1250 for 5040ube usually.


----------



## inspector

You can use the Panny 420 for your tone mapping for UHDs on the 5040/6040...looks game good.


----------



## jbnpaul

Jameshtx said:


> Sorry if this has been brought up before. Is the 5050ub $2800 better then my 5040ub picture quality wise? Nothing is wrong with my 5040 however in the event it dies on me, I'd like to stay with the Epson brand. Its more in my price range and i'm happy with the quality.


They are very similar image wise.
5050 has better tone mapping and 18 gbps band width and some minor other improvements.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

b_scott said:


> Anyone figure out how to get 4k60 with HDR on PS5?


Nope. I thought the 4k HDMI -1 or -2 setting or whatever it's called may have reduced it to outpit 8bit like the linker does and allow it but still only lets you do 1080p.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## madermat

I have 2 small dust blobs as well if there is no way of geting rid of them i will send the unit back hate to do that as i got a refurb with 18 hours on it


----------



## b_scott

Brettmckinney said:


> Nope. I thought the 4k HDMI -1 or -2 setting or whatever it's called may have reduced it to outpit 8bit like the linker does and allow it but still only lets you do 1080p.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


That sucks. I really hope that I'm not locked out of PS5 4K HDR in my theater.


----------



## jbnpaul

madermat said:


> I have 2 small dust blobs as well if there is no way of geting rid of them i will send the unit back hate to do that as i got a refurb with 18 hours on it


Now you know why that is a refurb unit. 
Send it back and play the refurb roulette until you get one that makes you smile.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rwlTHEATER

I just purchased a refurbished 6040ub for $1600. Going to install tomorrow. Any tips or pitfalls I should be looking out for? 

Seems like a pretty good price for this projector.


----------



## tibimakai

Tibor Makai said:


> Thank you very much!


Hi Inspector, I'm checking for the pm, but I can't find it. Could you please resend it? I appreciate your help.


----------



## blastermaster

rwlTHEATER said:


> I just purchased a refurbished 6040ub for $1600. Going to install tomorrow. Any tips or pitfalls I should be looking out for?
> 
> Seems like a pretty good price for this projector.


It's a ridiculous price, assuming everything is working as intended. I love my 6040.


----------



## sleepingatsea

b_scott said:


> That sucks. I really hope that I'm not locked out of PS5 4K HDR in my theater.


Last night I test out 1080p/HDR on Miles Morales and I have to say, it looks AMAZING. Using fidelity mode. I think the Epson does such a good job with 1080p that you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference vs 4k on it hey. 


Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

tibimakai said:


> Hi Inspector, I'm checking for the pm, but I can't find it. Could you please resend it? I appreciate your help.


Just resent it!


----------



## aoaaron

jbnpaul said:


> This is exactly what I use. tone map using MadVR to SDR. But then again the projector is not getting HDR. It is only getting SDR.
> 
> I expect this to perform better than NX7 HDR. But I would also expect NX7 to be better than 5040 when it is used with madVR.
> 
> Here are my thoughts on HDR using 5040.
> There are three specific improvements one can get with 4K HDR.
> 1. Better color (BT2020)
> 2. Dynamic range (difference in lowest and brightest spots on the screen)
> 3. More pixels
> 
> My understanding the projector (bulb) produces the same amount of nits irrespective off the input (SDR or HDR). Assuming the projector can produce 100 nits max what are your options when a 400 nit HDR image is input to it?
> Since the projector can not produce more than 100 nits, it uses some algorithm to approximate the output. In my case most of the HDR images end up looking simply far too dark. May be the image preserves the dynamic range ... but it is too dark. And I don't like dark, and I want bright.
> 
> After chasing HDR for a while ... I realized in almost all content I have tried ... the SDR image looks stunning/jaw dropping. But the HDR ends up being far too dark. So simply telling my Apple TV not to use HDR solved all my problems.
> 
> Here is my conclusion ... The real problem here is 5040 can not produce the brightness required for HDR. And this is also the case with NX7. But what NX-7 does is tone mapping ( dynamic - based on the current frame ).
> 
> Consider an HDR movie which has a range of around 400 nits. Now consider an HDR scene which is dark but has 200 nits highlights in a small area ... but most of the frame where all the action happens is say less than 40 nits. Now what happens when 5040 attempts to display it? The highlight will be 50 nits. But the rest of the scene( where the actions happens) gets only 10 nits. So you end up watching a really dark movie.
> 
> NX-7 which can do dynamic tone mapping ... can simply adjust the tone mapping on frame by frame basis... So it can simply brighten the above frame ... by rendering the bright highlight using 100 nits but then 20 nits for the dark area. Now the action is bright by a factor of two.
> 
> Now this is what madVR does as well, and what madVR does is leaps and bounds better than NX-7 does. But the big difference is ... it tone maps to SDR. But maintains 4K pixels and BT2020 color space. So you get 2 out of 3 benefits of HDR. The 3rd one which is the dynamic range, we have no way to actually produce it due to hardware limitations of 5040.
> 
> But MadVR does its magic and provides an enormous number of configuration options so that you can control the tone mapping. I like my movies bright. So I configure it so that I can see what happens in the dark area. I have no real data ... but with MadVR the highlight will be 100 nits ... but the dark area might still average around 35 (May be even more than 40 with some configuration updates). In short you end up seeing the action in the dark area as expected but lose some of the dynamic range(the highlight is less bright) in the process.
> 
> My understanding is a number of HDR settings that people have, tries to do this exact same thing by playing around with gamma etc. But I don't think it is possible to do anything that is even remotely closer to what can be achieved with MadVR.
> You can optimize the projector for one scene or one movie ... but then a different movie/scene that would look worse.
> 
> Jaws drop every time I demo my 5040. Couple of my friends bought 5050 after they had a demo at my home. I was happy with the HDR until I watched the same content with only SDR. I couldn't make sense how SDR can look better than HDR when I am using the same disc. I always thought even though 5040(Or most projectors) can not do 100% HDR, there would at least be some improvement. At least in my experience this is simply not the case.
> 
> without madVR you lose BT2020 color space. So vs a regular Blu-ray, 4K will look better due to higher resolution and better colors. But at the same time, will also look darker and this was frustrating. MadVR fixes all these. you get the pixels and BT2020. And it also does tone mapping so that each frame can be rendered optimally



Hi mate. I'm thinking of getting an Epson 9300 (6040UB) instead of a 9400 (6050UB) and saving myself £1400 towards buying a new JVC next year when they release new projectors.

My question is, how do I set this up with the Epson 9300? Will I be better off actually getting the 9400 or can I extract this kind of fantastic performance with the 9300? 

Thank you.


----------



## tibimakai

inspector said:


> Just resent it!


I'm an idiot, or what, but I can't find it. Where it should show up?

Thank you


----------



## inspector

Tap your Avatar on the right side of this page and It will show your conversations. Click that and you’ll find my PM to you.


----------



## inspector

tibimakai said:


> I'm an idiot, or what, but I can't find it. Where it should show up?
> 
> Thank you


Just resent the settings in a conversation to you. Hope that helps.


----------



## aoaaron

hey guys.

I have the choice of a:
6050UB for £2400
6040UB for £1000

I already have a 77'' OLED which I plan to use for gaming (I have tried gaming on the 6050UB and didn't like it due to the sharpness and HDR tonemapping being a bit off for games).

I plan to use projector for MADVR-based HDR watching films (I rip and MADVR everything) and 3D films.

Do you think I have any tangible upgrades by going to the 6050UB or would the £1400 saving be better served going towards other things for my home theatre (or as I like to call it, the Epson 6060UB OR JVC N5.1 fund)

If you guys advise 6040UB, can someone please drop me the MADVR settings?


----------



## aoaaron

Brettmckinney said:


> Last night I test out 1080p/HDR on Miles Morales and I have to say, it looks AMAZING. Using fidelity mode. I think the Epson does such a good job with 1080p that you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference vs 4k on it hey.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Hi mate. I wish I still had my 6050UB but I found the e-shift had a VERY hard time on video games so I will venture that the native 1080p source with some sharpening filter will not be worlds apart from the e-shifted version of games. I'm not sure why videogames on the 6050UB did not look as good as films do but it was plain to see so I do believe you here!

The only projector which I believe does videogames in 4K right is the very expensive JVC line as I find video games are very reliant on the colour black for their added contrast and impact and the native 4K resolution.


----------



## rwlTHEATER

So, after almost a week with my refurbished 6040 I have to say I am thoroughly impressed. I swapped it for my Sony HW VPL HW50ES and the difference is startling. The blacks are so much richer and the resolution (even on upscaled 1080P content) are amazing. After selling my 7 year old Sony I barely had any cost to complete the upgrade, so it really was a win.

I have been pouring through this thread looking for the best settings to try in my room. So, if anyone want to offer suggestions I am appreciative. Here are my specs:

Light controlled room (13 foot throw distance)
110 in (16 x 9) screen
7.1 sound (Yamaha A820 - PSB speakers and HSU subwoofer)
Panasonic 420 BluRay (purchased after reading this thread)
Popcorn Hour A300 Movie Jukebox
4K Apple TV

I did do some basic calibration with the Disney WOW disc, but I am open to any suggestions.


----------



## aoaaron

rwlTHEATER said:


> So, after almost a week with my refurbished 6040 I have to say I am thoroughly impressed. I swapped it for my Sony HW VPL HW50ES and the difference is startling. The blacks are so much richer and the resolution (even on upscaled 1080P content) are amazing. After selling my 7 year old Sony I barely had any cost to complete the upgrade, so it really was a win.
> 
> I have been pouring through this thread looking for the best settings to try in my room. So, if anyone want to offer suggestions I am appreciative. Here are my specs:
> 
> Light controlled room (13 foot throw distance)
> 110 in (16 x 9) screen
> 7.1 sound (Yamaha A820 - PSB speakers and HSU subwoofer)
> Panasonic 420 BluRay (purchased after reading this thread)
> Popcorn Hour A300 Movie Jukebox
> 4K Apple TV
> 
> I did do some basic calibration with the Disney WOW disc, but I am open to any suggestions.



Buy a HTPC and install mADVR. I've used it and it is indeed kind of crazy how much better DTM is once you've dialled in the settings. Doesn't need to be expensive. Just buy second hand cheap gaming PC in a nice case you like.

this is likely the biggest upgrade to any projector for HDR content except for a JVC... maybe even a JVC.


----------



## inspector

rwlTHEATER said:


> So, after almost a week with my refurbished 6040 I have to say I am thoroughly impressed. I swapped it for my Sony HW VPL HW50ES and the difference is startling. The blacks are so much richer and the resolution (even on upscaled 1080P content) are amazing. After selling my 7 year old Sony I barely had any cost to complete the upgrade, so it really was a win.
> 
> I have been pouring through this thread looking for the best settings to try in my room. So, if anyone want to offer suggestions I am appreciative. Here are my specs:
> 
> Light controlled room (13 foot throw distance)
> 110 in (16 x 9) screen
> 7.1 sound (Yamaha A820 - PSB speakers and HSU subwoofer)
> Panasonic 420 BluRay (purchased after reading this thread)
> Popcorn Hour A300 Movie Jukebox
> 4K Apple TV
> 
> I did do some basic calibration with the Disney WOW disc, but I am open to any suggestions.



PM sent...enjoy!


----------



## b_scott

Brettmckinney said:


> Last night I test out 1080p/HDR on Miles Morales and I have to say, it looks AMAZING. Using fidelity mode. I think the Epson does such a good job with 1080p that you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference vs 4k on it hey.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Maybe I'll set it to 1080p/60 HDR. I hope it doesn't take a big hit in resolution.


----------



## sddp

Question if anyone has ever seen the JVC NX7?

I recently saw Mandalorian Season 2, it was in 4K and HDR (something I didn't think my 5040UBe could do, (well with out the linker and/or other mods) and I was INCREDIBLY impressed, I am using a 150" cinegrey 3D screen and the sharpness, clarity, detail, colors was mind blowing. BTW I've probably seen at least 1000 movies on this since I bought it the month it came out. What I wanted to know, and not sure if this is the right place to inquire, but I have been eye'ing the JVC NX7 since it's true 4K with true amazing HDR and auto tone mapping, I'd like to know specific details on how much the NX7 would be? Is it dramatic and night and day difference? Since the cost is almost 2.5 times at $7,0000

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated

Thanks


----------



## inspector

Wrong thread. Try the JVC threads.


----------



## aoaaron

sddp said:


> Question if anyone has ever seen the JVC NX7?
> 
> I recently saw Mandalorian Season 2, it was in 4K and HDR (something I didn't think my 5040UBe could do, (well with out the linker and/or other mods) and I was INCREDIBLY impressed, I am using a 150" cinegrey 3D screen and the sharpness, clarity, detail, colors was mind blowing. BTW I've probably seen at least 1000 movies on this since I bought it the month it came out. What I wanted to know, and not sure if this is the right place to inquire, but I have been eye'ing the JVC NX7 since it's true 4K with true amazing HDR and auto tone mapping, I'd like to know specific details on how much the NX7 would be? Is it dramatic and night and day difference? Since the cost is almost 2.5 times at $7,0000
> 
> Any opinions would be greatly appreciated
> 
> Thanks



Its going to be a step up in:
1. Resolution
2. Dynamic Tone mapping (unless you use MADVR)
3. Motion
4. Due to increased resolution, lower need for artificial sharpening presets leading to a more natural picture
5. Far better HDR and specular highlight detail due to higher contrast panel

Whether its worth the money or not.. its all relative to how much money you have dedicated to HT. I personally find it hard to justify paying near full RRP for a projector which has been out for a year and a half. If JVC were to release the new N series tommorow, I'd pre-order and buy but as it stands, I'm happy to wait. The same logic I have in why I can't justify full RRP for a 6050 when 6040s sell with 5 years warranty for less than half the price. 

I'd say if you want an upgrade to your PQ, you'd be better served building a HTPC and installing MADVR and converting to the image processing life via MADVR which will improve film quality, dithering and allow for DTM alongside a fully fledged computer and gaming PC if you spec it hard enough for the same price. This will surely cost about a $1000 rather than $7000. 

Would a screen upgrade be better? In a non treated room, an ALR screen will improve your PQ far more than a JVC for black level and perceived contrast. Or maybe you'd like to go AT? 

TLDR, it is a step up and a massive step up in clarity for gaming because gaming hugely benefits from native 4K panel.. is it worth it? I'd say if you are satisified with your current PJ... STOP. Wait until a product is newly released which really grabs your attention and gives you that Christmas/Birthday present feeling of I NEED this. 

For now I would pay a fraction of the funds you are thinking of dedicating to a JVC N series projector to other forms of hardware in your chain which will exponentially improve your home cinema experience AND it will allow you to keep them for longer (audio processor, speakers, subwoofers, video processing, HTPC). 

But yes, JVCs are amazing.


----------



## blastermaster

aoaaron said:


> Buy a HTPC and install mADVR. I've used it and it is indeed kind of crazy how much better DTM is once you've dialled in the settings. Doesn't need to be expensive. Just buy second hand cheap gaming PC in a nice case you like.
> 
> this is likely the biggest upgrade to any projector for HDR content except for a JVC... maybe even a JVC.


Bah, I keep hearing about MadVR. Do you just stream Netflix, Disney plus and Prime with it? Or do you have to rip your 4K blu rays? Internal 4K blu ray player? It wouldn't be worth my time to rip movies only for a bit of an improvement in image fidelity. My eyes suck anyway.


----------



## aoaaron

blastermaster said:


> Bah, I keep hearing about MadVR. Do you just stream Netflix, Disney plus and Prime with it? Or do you have to rip your 4K blu rays? Internal 4K blu ray player? It wouldn't be worth my time to rip movies only for a bit of an improvement in image fidelity. My eyes suck anyway.


Rip. Its for DTM for HDR. 

TBH its within my current workflow for HT. I prefer everything local and physical disc media. If thats not for you, then I wouldn't bother with it as its going to be of limited value.


----------



## sddp

aoaaron said:


> Its going to be a step up in:
> 1. Resolution
> 2. Dynamic Tone mapping (unless you use MADVR)
> 3. Motion
> 4. Due to increased resolution, lower need for artificial sharpening presets leading to a more natural picture
> 5. Far better HDR and specular highlight detail due to higher contrast panel
> 
> Whether its worth the money or not.. its all relative to how much money you have dedicated to HT. I personally find it hard to justify paying near full RRP for a projector which has been out for a year and a half. If JVC were to release the new N series tommorow, I'd pre-order and buy but as it stands, I'm happy to wait. The same logic I have in why I can't justify full RRP for a 6050 when 6040s sell with 5 years warranty for less than half the price.
> 
> I'd say if you want an upgrade to your PQ, you'd be better served building a HTPC and installing MADVR and converting to the image processing life via MADVR which will improve film quality, dithering and allow for DTM alongside a fully fledged computer and gaming PC if you spec it hard enough for the same price. This will surely cost about a $1000 rather than $7000.
> 
> Would a screen upgrade be better? In a non treated room, an ALR screen will improve your PQ far more than a JVC for black level and perceived contrast. Or maybe you'd like to go AT?
> 
> TLDR, it is a step up and a massive step up in clarity for gaming because gaming hugely benefits from native 4K panel.. is it worth it? I'd say if you are satisified with your current PJ... STOP. Wait until a product is newly released which really grabs your attention and gives you that Christmas/Birthday present feeling of I NEED this.
> 
> For now I would pay a fraction of the funds you are thinking of dedicating to a JVC N series projector to other forms of hardware in your chain which will exponentially improve your home cinema experience AND it will allow you to keep them for longer (audio processor, speakers, subwoofers, video processing, HTPC).
> 
> But yes, JVCs are amazing.


Thanks, your answers are what I was looking for. I am condisering the next gen, since these companies take 2-3 years to come out with something new, and there's ALWAYS that 1 major new tech that is EPIC and a few of the minor upgrades. 
i.e. 5050 with 18gb to get true HDR and 100 more lumes, so I'd imagine with the NX7, the next one will be worth the wait. However, with this kind of price tag, it will be a forever PJ (well in our workd, forever doesn't exist, but at least a good 8-10 year run). 
My biggest issue is the Lumes, the Epson 5040 works FLAWLESSLY on a Cinegrey 150" 16:9. This is a completely dedicated light controlled theater room, I prefer the grey for the extreme darker richer colors and blacks, I've tried white and just wasn't for me sampling Star Wars, Batman, and Fast n' Furious the grey won everytime time on so many levels, but my fear is that the NX 7 having only 1900 lumes won't be as bright as our 5040 2500 Lumes and that could be an issue goingt to such a large screen?


----------



## aoaaron

sddp said:


> Thanks, your answers are what I was looking for. I am condisering the next gen, since these companies take 2-3 years to come out with something new, and there's ALWAYS that 1 major new tech that is EPIC and a few of the minor upgrades.
> i.e. 5050 with 18gb to get true HDR and 100 more lumes, so I'd imagine with the NX7, the next one will be worth the wait. However, with this kind of price tag, it will be a forever PJ (well in our workd, forever doesn't exist, but at least a good 8-10 year run).
> My biggest issue is the Lumes, the Epson 5040 works FLAWLESSLY on a Cinegrey 150" 16:9. This is a completely dedicated light controlled theater room, I prefer the grey for the extreme darker richer colors and blacks, I've tried white and just wasn't for me sampling Star Wars, Batman, and Fast n' Furious the grey won everytime time on so many levels, but my fear is that the NX 7 having only 1900 lumes won't be as bright as our 5040 2500 Lumes and that could be an issue goingt to such a large screen?



if u watch HDR on epson and engage filter its like 1100 lumens. NX7 is much brighter calibrated and in HDR mode so i wouldnt worry about this.

however like u.. i am a bit of a lumen addict and am prepared to wait for more lumens.

yeah 5050 was IMO not a true evolution. it was close but its HDR is not DTM, its just a HDR slider. the switch to 18gbps is great (and honestly needed) but i wouldn't say its a leap, its just a correction on what they should have done for 5040 and only really applies to ppl gaming on PJs.


----------



## sddp

aoaaron said:


> if u watch HDR on epson and engage filter its like 1100 lumens. NX7 is much brighter calibrated and in HDR mode so i wouldnt worry about this.
> 
> however like u.. i am a bit of a lumen addict and am prepared to wait for more lumens.
> 
> yeah 5050 was IMO not a true evolution. it was close but its HDR is not DTM, its just a HDR slider. the switch to 18gbps is great (and honestly needed) but i wouldn't say its a leap, its just a correction on what they should have done for 5040 and only really applies to ppl gaming on PJs.


 I am in Cinema mode 99% of the time. I don't think I am really getting anything in HDR since the 18gb bandwidth limitation and don't use a linker, XBOX One X HDMI to receiver then use the wires since I am 5040Ube. And never really pay attention, just really into detail and pixels, I know these numbers are fudged by all and mostly symantics to some degree, but didn't know I am all the way down to 1100 Lumes? wow, I've read that JVC lumes is more accurate and they don't fudge the numbers, so if this is the case, them even 1500 with their HDR engaged would be awesome. 

I just don't understand how lumes can be so difficult and pricey. A 10,000 lumes flashlight is like $50.00, Yes I know it's different technology, but it's still light output. 

Ideally hoping the biggest improvement JVC does is break the 2000 Lumes barrier and do a 8K eshift that can also accept 8K, although I was hoping Epson would have done this, since they do such a superb job with 4K eshift, I can't even imagine if they finally have native 4K and a 8K eshift. I would jump on that in a heartbeat.


----------



## sddp

aoaaron said:


> if u watch HDR on epson and engage filter its like 1100 lumens. NX7 is much brighter calibrated and in HDR mode so i wouldnt worry about this.
> 
> however like u.. i am a bit of a lumen addict and am prepared to wait for more lumens.
> 
> yeah 5050 was IMO not a true evolution. it was close but its HDR is not DTM, its just a HDR slider. the switch to 18gbps is great (and honestly needed) but i wouldn't say its a leap, its just a correction on what they should have done for 5040 and only really applies to ppl gaming on PJs.


 I am in Cinema mode 99% of the time. I don't think I am really getting anything in HDR since the 18gb bandwidth limitation and don't use a linker, XBOX One X HDMI to receiver then use the wires since I am 5040Ube. And never really pay attention, just really into detail and pixels, I know these numbers are fudged by all and mostly symantics to some degree, but didn't know I am all the way down to 1100 Lumes? wow, I've read that JVC lumes is more accurate and they don't fudge the numbers, so if this is the case, them even 1500 with their HDR engaged would be awesome. 

I just don't understand how lumes can be so difficult and pricey. A 10,000 lumes flashlight is like $50.00, Yes I know it's different technology, but it's still light output. 

Ideally hoping the biggest improvement JVC does is break the 2000 Lumes barrier and do a 8K eshift that can also accept 8K, although I was hoping Epson would have done this, since they do such a superb job with 4K eshift, I can't even imagine if they finally have native 4K and a 8K eshift. I would jump on that in a heartbeat.


----------



## inspector

Why Cinema mode all the time? If you like, I’ll send you my settings that I have been using for a few years with my 6040. I don’t use anything other than a BD player (2) with the 6040.


----------



## sddp

inspector said:


> Why Cinema mode all the time? If you like, I’ll send you my settings that I have been using for a few years with my 6040. I don’t use anything other than a BD player (2) with the 6040.



I have gone back an forth countless times, Blu Ray movies, 4K, Netflix, etc. And everytime seems with the Cinema mode (even though I loose brightness) thepicture looks more natural. But would like to see your settings, would it work only for Blu Ray or all others? Also game XBOX with 4K games. My 4K collection which has grown dramatically this year, saving and haven't opened them for if I get the NX 7 or next Gen Epson


----------



## inspector

sddp said:


> I have gone back an forth countless times, Blu Ray movies, 4K, Netflix, etc. And everytime seems with the Cinema mode (even though I loose brightness) thepicture looks more natural. But would like to see your settings, would it work only for Blu Ray or all others? Also game XBOX with 4K games. My 4K collection which has grown dramatically this year, saving and haven't opened them for if I get the NX 7 or next Gen Epson


PM sent.


----------



## aoaaron

sddp said:


> I am in Cinema mode 99% of the time. I don't think I am really getting anything in HDR since the 18gb bandwidth limitation and don't use a linker, XBOX One X HDMI to receiver then use the wires since I am 5040Ube. And never really pay attention, just really into detail and pixels, I know these numbers are fudged by all and mostly symantics to some degree, but didn't know I am all the way down to 1100 Lumes? wow, I've read that JVC lumes is more accurate and they don't fudge the numbers, so if this is the case, them even 1500 with their HDR engaged would be awesome.
> 
> I just don't understand how lumes can be so difficult and pricey. A 10,000 lumes flashlight is like $50.00, Yes I know it's different technology, but it's still light output.
> 
> Ideally hoping the biggest improvement JVC does is break the 2000 Lumes barrier and do a 8K eshift that can also accept 8K, although I was hoping Epson would have done this, since they do such a superb job with 4K eshift, I can't even imagine if they finally have native 4K and a 8K eshift. I would jump on that in a heartbeat.


The colour filter is a filter.. so it filters out more light  
JVC PJs cover more of the colour gamut without filter than Epson. This applies to 5040 series and 5050 series. 

Yes 8K e shift for those with 120 inch screens + would be... very cool.


----------



## aoaaron

inspector said:


> PM sent.


Please send this to me too please  




sddp said:


> I have gone back an forth countless times, Blu Ray movies, 4K, Netflix, etc. And everytime seems with the Cinema mode (even though I loose brightness) thepicture looks more natural. But would like to see your settings, would it work only for Blu Ray or all others? Also game XBOX with 4K games. My 4K collection which has grown dramatically this year, saving and haven't opened them for if I get the NX 7 or next Gen Epson



Don't use cinema mode for SDR.
For HDR.. cinema mode covers more of the colour gamut but if you are engaging DTM using MADVR, then I'd stay in the brighter mode and MADVR will map nicely with the extra brightness for more pop. 
Increased colour gamut does look more natural and I love it too but I also do like brightness. on 6050ub i switched between the two, used to settle on cinema as easier on the eyes.


----------



## inspector

aoaaron said:


> Please send this to me too please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't use cinema mode for SDR.
> For HDR.. cinema mode covers more of the colour gamut but if you are engaging DTM using MADVR, then I'd stay in the brighter mode and MADVR will map nicely with the extra brightness for more pop.
> Increased colour gamut does look more natural and I love it too but I also do like brightness. on 6050ub i switched between the two, used to settle on cinema as easier on the eyes.


PM sent! Enjoy!


----------



## Grayson73

rwlTHEATER said:


> So, after almost a week with my refurbished 6040 I have to say I am thoroughly impressed. I swapped it for my Sony HW VPL HW50ES and the difference is startling. The blacks are so much richer and the resolution (even on upscaled 1080P content) are amazing. After selling my 7 year old Sony I barely had any cost to complete the upgrade, so it really was a win.
> 
> I have been pouring through this thread looking for the best settings to try in my room. So, if anyone want to offer suggestions I am appreciative. Here are my specs:
> 
> Light controlled room (13 foot throw distance)
> 110 in (16 x 9) screen
> 7.1 sound (Yamaha A820 - PSB speakers and HSU subwoofer)
> Panasonic 420 BluRay (purchased after reading this thread)
> Popcorn Hour A300 Movie Jukebox
> 4K Apple TV
> 
> I did do some basic calibration with the Disney WOW disc, but I am open to any suggestions.


I use Adam's settings. He uses Natural mode for SDR and HDR - Projector Calibration (6040UB) - Second Look


----------



## mrepella

Has anyone been able to get the 5040 to output 4K and HDR with the PS5 with the help of a linker yet? I haven't taken the plunge to order a linker, before I do I was hoping to see if someone else got it to work.


----------



## avtoronto

inspector said:


> PM sent! Enjoy!


i’d like to subscribe to your settings’ service too please!


----------



## inspector

avtoronto said:


> i’d like to subscribe to your settings’ service too please!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## b_scott

Brettmckinney said:


> Last night I test out 1080p/HDR on Miles Morales and I have to say, it looks AMAZING. Using fidelity mode. I think the Epson does such a good job with 1080p that you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference vs 4k on it hey.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


ok I tried this last night, and used my Epson HDR movie settings to set up the blacks/whites. It looked like total crap. I just went back to 4K/60 no HDR and used my HDR picture settings, so I could actually see something. The PS5 HDR settings made it super dark and colors bad.


----------



## yourmando

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Since so many are interested in seeing your settings, would you mind sharing publicly in this thread? I’m curious to see them as well, and it seems to be very on topic 😀


----------



## inspector

yourmando said:


> Since so many are interested in seeing your settings, would you mind sharing publicly in this thread? I’m curious to see them as well, and it seems to be very on topic 😀


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## slinger45

b_scott said:


> ok I tried this last night, and used my Epson HDR movie settings to set up the blacks/whites. It looked like total crap. I just went back to 4K/60 no HDR and used my HDR picture settings, so I could actually see something. The PS5 HDR settings made it super dark and colors bad.


I too found the 4k no HDR to look better than 1080p/HDR combo with the PS5


----------



## john hunter

Likewise Inspector, I would be interested in trying your settings.


----------



## inspector

PM sent. Enjoy John


----------



## aoaaron

b_scott said:


> ok I tried this last night, and used my Epson HDR movie settings to set up the blacks/whites. It looked like total crap. I just went back to 4K/60 no HDR and used my HDR picture settings, so I could actually see something. The PS5 HDR settings made it super dark and colors bad.


hi mate. how are u getting 4k/60? are u using a device to get the 4k/60?


----------



## b_scott

aoaaron said:


> hi mate. how are u getting 4k/60? are u using a device to get the 4k/60?


the Epson accepts 4K/60 without HDR turned on.

technically it works like this:

4K/60 > down converted to 1080p/60 > upscaled to pixel shifted-4k/60

it won't do 4K/60 HDR for games because the PS5 is sending 12 bit HDR and only 8 bit HDR will be accepted by the Epson at 4K/60. This is because it's limited to a lower bandwidth on the HDMI port and can't do the amount of data the 4K/60/12 bit HDR pushes.


----------



## aoaaron

b_scott said:


> the Epson accepts 4K/60 without HDR turned on.
> 
> technically it works like this:
> 
> 4K/60 > down converted to 1080p/60 > upscaled to pixel shifted-4k/60
> 
> it won't do 4K/60 HDR for games because the PS5 is sending 12 bit HDR and only 8 bit HDR will be accepted by the Epson at 4K/60. This is because it's limited to a lower bandwidth on the HDMI port and can't do the amount of data the 4K/60/12 bit HDR pushes.


Seriously?? Given the trouble my Epson 6050UB had with HDR tone mapping on videogames, this is great news.

I sometimes just prefer SDR if there is no DTM avaialble on a projector because playing with the slider is annoying and sometimes impossible dependant on how the HDR Is mastered.


----------



## mrepella

Can I get that PM too Inspector?


----------



## inspector

mrepella said:


> Can I get that PM too Inspector?


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## nusilver

Hey, owners! I'm hoping a few of you can help me make a smart decision on an upgrade. My current PJ is a ViewSonic PX727-4K; it's a 4K pixel shifter, capable of displaying full-res 4K. For everything but large areas of black and darker scenes, the picture is breathtaking when set up properly (and converting HDR to BT.709 via the OPPO 203... this projector does heinous things with the color red when displaying HDR, so I just don't even bother with it). But obviously those blacks are important, and it's always underwhelming watching a dark movie on the big screen when the OLED in our living room can handle it so much better.

So! I'm considering a refurbed 5040UB as a possible upgrade. We've converted our garage into a light controlled theater, so light's not an issue. What I'm concerned about is the quality of the "4K" image from our seating area, which is seven feet from a 91" screen. For those of you who have the 5040UB and have also used something capable of shifting to 4K instead of the 5040UB's "half 4K," how does the 5040 compare at that distance? Also worth considering: we're buying a house next year with plans for a basement theater conversion, so while I could theoretically spring for something like a 5050UB after that happens, would that be worth the extra $1500 or so? I'm friendly with Bill Hunt from The Digital Bits and he's sworn by the 5040UB for years, and while I think the overall experience is more important than raw pixel count, I also don't want to regret a purchase since the refurbs are no return.

Thanks! And yes, I'm aware that people have been having issues with this unit since it came out.


----------



## aoaaron

nusilver said:


> Hey, owners! I'm hoping a few of you can help me make a smart decision on an upgrade. My current PJ is a ViewSonic PX727-4K; it's a 4K pixel shifter, capable of displaying full-res 4K. For everything but large areas of black and darker scenes, the picture is breathtaking when set up properly (and converting HDR to BT.709 via the OPPO 203... this projector does heinous things with the color red when displaying HDR, so I just don't even bother with it). But obviously those blacks are important, and it's always underwhelming watching a dark movie on the big screen when the OLED in our living room can handle it so much better.
> 
> So! I'm considering a refurbed 5040UB as a possible upgrade. We've converted our garage into a light controlled theater, so light's not an issue. What I'm concerned about is the quality of the "4K" image from our seating area, which is seven feet from a 91" screen. For those of you who have the 5040UB and have also used something capable of shifting to 4K instead of the 5040UB's "half 4K," how does the 5040 compare at that distance? Also worth considering: we're buying a house next year with plans for a basement theater conversion, so while I could theoretically spring for something like a 5050UB after that happens, would that be worth the extra $1500 or so? I'm friendly with Bill Hunt from The Digital Bits and he's sworn by the 5040UB for years, and while I think the overall experience is more important than raw pixel count, I also don't want to regret a purchase since the refurbs are no return.
> 
> Thanks! And yes, I'm aware that people have been having issues with this unit since it came out.



I would use 1500 towards MADVR/DTM solution and get a HTPC and convert your workflow/cinemaflow to running films via ripped MKV and played through MADVR. Will give you the best tangible benefits for HDR film.

SDR film they are very similar if not the same.


----------



## Oil Country

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!





inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Hi Inspector winter's getting colder up in here in Northern Canada, any way I could get those settings to use on my Epson ?

Thank You

Oil Country


----------



## inspector

Oil Country said:


> Hi Inspector winter's getting colder up in here in Northern Canada, any way I could get those settings to use on my Epson ?
> 
> Thank You
> 
> Oil Country


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## talon95tsi

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Can I get a PM too please?


----------



## Jkoravos

I just ordered a 5040UB refurb from Epson so I'll be getting acquainted over the next few weeks. I'm totally revamping my theater system after many, many years without an upgrade. I'm totally new to 4K, HDR, Atmos, etc. I'm sure there will be questions...


----------



## b_scott

aoaaron said:


> Seriously?? Given the trouble my Epson 6050UB had with HDR tone mapping on videogames, this is great news.
> 
> I sometimes just prefer SDR if there is no DTM avaialble on a projector because playing with the slider is annoying and sometimes impossible dependant on how the HDR Is mastered.


Yep. It'll do 4K/24 or 4K/30 HDR 10, but not 4K/60 HDR 12. It WILL do 4K/60 HDR 8 as well, but the PS5 won't accept this, I think.

The Xbox Series X will through an 8bit 4:4:4: splitter into an HD Fury Linker outputting 4K/60 8 bit...... but that's a $250 proposition, and doesn't work for PS5.


----------



## aoaaron

b_scott said:


> Yep. It'll do 4K/24 or 4K/30 HDR 10, but not 4K/60 HDR 12. It WILL do 4K/60 HDR 8 as well, but the PS5 won't accept this, I think.
> 
> The Xbox Series X will through an 8bit 4:4:4: splitter into an HD Fury Linker outputting 4K/60 8 bit...... but that's a $250 proposition, and doesn't work for PS5.


how wow... so does it do 4k/60 8-bit HDR? i.e. would it plat well with NVIDA GPU


----------



## b_scott

aoaaron said:


> how wow... so does it do 4k/60 8-bit HDR? i.e. would it plat well with NVIDA GPU


the 5040UB will accept 4k/60 8-bit HDR. for games. This is because that bitrate is JUST under the max gbps the port will accept.

Xbox One X / Series X/S ---->









Amazon.com: 4K HDMI Splitter 1x2 HDR D-o-l-b-y Vision Atmos Down Scaler - HDMI Scaler 4K 1080P Sync,4K 60Hz 4:4:4 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out HDCP2.2, EDID 4K5.1/4K7.1/ Copy, for Game Xbox PS5 1080p120Hz Roku SP12H2 : Electronics


Buy 4K HDMI Splitter 1x2 HDR D-o-l-b-y Vision Atmos Down Scaler - HDMI Scaler 4K 1080P Sync,4K 60Hz 4:4:4 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out HDCP2.2, EDID 4K5.1/4K7.1/ Copy, for Game Xbox PS5 1080p120Hz Roku SP12H2: Splitters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





--->









Amazon.com: Monoprice 127330 HDFury 4K Linker | Ultra Scaling Up to [email protected], 4:4:4, 600MHz : Electronics


Buy Monoprice 127330 HDFury 4K Linker | Ultra Scaling Up to [email protected], 4:4:4, 600MHz: Splitters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





----> AVR > Epson 5040 (and I assume 6040, 5050, 6050)

this works for HDR gaming. So far the PS5 has no solution.


----------



## aoaaron

b_scott said:


> the 5040UB will accept 4k/60 8-bit HDR. for games. This is because that bitrate is JUST under the max gbps the port will accept.
> 
> Xbox One X / Series X/S ---->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: 4K HDMI Splitter 1x2 HDR D-o-l-b-y Vision Atmos Down Scaler - HDMI Scaler 4K 1080P Sync,4K 60Hz 4:4:4 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out HDCP2.2, EDID 4K5.1/4K7.1/ Copy, for Game Xbox PS5 1080p120Hz Roku SP12H2 : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy 4K HDMI Splitter 1x2 HDR D-o-l-b-y Vision Atmos Down Scaler - HDMI Scaler 4K 1080P Sync,4K 60Hz 4:4:4 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out HDCP2.2, EDID 4K5.1/4K7.1/ Copy, for Game Xbox PS5 1080p120Hz Roku SP12H2: Splitters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Monoprice 127330 HDFury 4K Linker | Ultra Scaling Up to [email protected], 4:4:4, 600MHz : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Monoprice 127330 HDFury 4K Linker | Ultra Scaling Up to [email protected], 4:4:4, 600MHz: Splitters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----> AVR > Epson 5040 (and I assume 6040, 5050, 6050)
> 
> this works for HDR gaming. So far the PS5 has no solution.



Thanks. I owned a 6050UB last year and frankly, I found HDR in videogames not very good on it. The HDR tone mapping was all over the place regardles of where I let it sat on the slider whilst the SDR version seemed to have a pop and brightness (presumably because it didn't have the filter on) and the colours just looked right so aslong as I can 4K/SDR/60 most games I'm quietly happy that the 5040/6040 is the way for me to go rather than re-purchase the 6050/5050.

If the 5040 allows for 4K/60/SDR, I am happy personally. 

Will save me £1400 which I can also devote to the next Epson (or if JVC decide to get sensible) offering.


----------



## b_scott

yeah it definitely does and honestly it looks GREAT. If you don't want to fiddle with HDR just do 4k/60 SDR on games and adjust settings where needed.


----------



## aoaaron

b_scott said:


> yeah it definitely does and honestly it looks GREAT. If you don't want to fiddle with HDR just do 4k/60 SDR on games and adjust settings where needed.


Yup. I think sadly HDR in videogaming has to be left to the JVC DTM PJs and OLEDs. The HDR is just so utterly demanding in videogames. 

My high end FALD TV struggled and the 6050UB did too. They have mastered some games so poorly (I've seen some games have a target nit value of 20,000 nits.. what displays are they playing with).


----------



## Jkoravos

This might be a dumb question but...why are these projectors huge? I'm coming from an HC 1060 which is about the same size as the Optoma I had 10 years ago, kinda typical "tabletop business projector" size. Is there something in the optics that requires more space? The 5040 us also like 4 times the weight. What the heck are they putting in there?


----------



## b_scott

Jkoravos said:


> This might be a dumb question but...why are these projectors huge? I'm coming from an HC 1060 which is about the same size as the Optoma I had 10 years ago, kinda typical "tabletop business projector" size. Is there something in the optics that requires more space? The 5040 us also like 4 times the weight. What the heck are they putting in there?


Good glass, iris motor, cooling.... all need space.


----------



## Frichard

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Could I get your setting too? I like trying new setting! Thx


----------



## jesped2

Sooo... anybody here got any success using the HDR mode in 3D?

I tried some games like Horizon Zero Dawn on PC and when switching to 3D colors get all washed out.


----------



## inspector

Frichard said:


> Could I get your setting too? I like trying new setting! Thx


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## rwlTHEATER

NEED HELP!

I just bought the Panasonic UB420 after reading the reviews for how well it works with the 6040. But for some reason I cannot get it to allow 4k resolution. It shows no signal and then defaults back to 1080P. Can someone guide me through the correct settings?

I have the projector working great with 4k (set at 30Hz) from my Apple TV. 

Is there a way to get the Panasonic to work in 4k with my set-up? The video is being passed through my Yamaha A820 receiver.


----------



## inspector

Just PMed you with my setting for the 420. My video is passing thru my 4300 but no Firestick.


----------



## inspector

inspector said:


> Just PMed you with my setting for the 420. My video is passing thru my 4300 but no Firestick.


I do have Netflix,etc., thru my 420 and 4500.


----------



## inspector

inspector said:


> I do have Netflix,etc., thru my 420 and 4500.


I meant Sammy 8500.


----------



## Afryingpan

Hey there, what's the best place to get a spare bulb in Canada? 
I've got an HC 4000 but they share the same bulbs. Also is bright cinema or natural better for SDR viewing? 
Thanks


----------



## inspector

Afryingpan said:


> Hey there, what's the best place to get a spare bulb in Canada?
> I've got an HC 4000 but they share the same bulbs. Also is bright cinema or natural better for SDR viewing?
> Thanks


Not sure a about a bulb but I.m sending my setting thru PM.


----------



## avtoronto

Afryingpan said:


> Hey there, what's the best place to get a spare bulb in Canada?
> I've got an HC 4000 but they share the same bulbs. Also is bright cinema or natural better for SDR viewing?
> Thanks


Try Eastporters


----------



## nusilver

nusilver said:


> Hey, owners! I'm hoping a few of you can help me make a smart decision on an upgrade. My current PJ is a ViewSonic PX727-4K; it's a 4K pixel shifter, capable of displaying full-res 4K. For everything but large areas of black and darker scenes, the picture is breathtaking when set up properly (and converting HDR to BT.709 via the OPPO 203... this projector does heinous things with the color red when displaying HDR, so I just don't even bother with it). But obviously those blacks are important, and it's always underwhelming watching a dark movie on the big screen when the OLED in our living room can handle it so much better.
> 
> So! I'm considering a refurbed 5040UB as a possible upgrade. We've converted our garage into a light controlled theater, so light's not an issue. What I'm concerned about is the quality of the "4K" image from our seating area, which is seven feet from a 91" screen. For those of you who have the 5040UB and have also used something capable of shifting to 4K instead of the 5040UB's "half 4K," how does the 5040 compare at that distance? Also worth considering: we're buying a house next year with plans for a basement theater conversion, so while I could theoretically spring for something like a 5050UB after that happens, would that be worth the extra $1500 or so? I'm friendly with Bill Hunt from The Digital Bits and he's sworn by the 5040UB for years, and while I think the overall experience is more important than raw pixel count, I also don't want to regret a purchase since the refurbs are no return.
> 
> Thanks! And yes, I'm aware that people have been having issues with this unit since it came out.


Anybody else have an opinion? I appreciate the reply about MadVR and I like the idea of having access to DTM without spending for a JVC, but I’m just looking for opinions on whether the 5040UB is still a good investment for $1500 versus the 5050UB’s $3000. Or maybe I should wait for the 5050 to go to $1500 or less?


----------



## by96

nusilver said:


> Anybody else have an opinion? I appreciate the reply about MadVR and I like the idea of having access to DTM without spending for a JVC, but I’m just looking for opinions on whether the 5040UB is still a good investment for $1500 versus the 5050UB’s $3000. Or maybe I should wait for the 5050 to go to $1500 or less?


I have a 6040ub and am extremely happy with it. I know the 5050/6050 have 18GB HDMI and improved HDR, and I don't imagine that either improvement would be worth doubling the cost, but I haven't seen either one in action so I really don't know. If you are the type that is unhappy unless you have the latest technology you can afford, bite the bullet and get the 5050. If you are typically happy with "almost as good," I think the 5040 is a great deal. 

I read the earlier comment about MadVR and DTM and really think there is a good point there: You can use the additional money the 5050 would cost to buy sources that will make a bigger difference, like an HTPC. I actually started buying parts for one yesterday and am excited to try it out on my 6040ub. 

Just remember, if you wait for the 5050 to drop in price (as refurbs), then the 5060 will be out or on its way and you will be in the same dilemma. 

Good luck. In the end, I am confident you will be happy with whatever route you choose.


----------



## inspector

aoaaron said:


> Yup. I think sadly HDR in videogaming has to be left to the JVC DTM PJs and OLEDs. The HDR is just so utterly demanding in videogames.
> 
> My high end FALD TV struggled and the 6050UB did too. They have mastered some games so poorly (I've seen some games have a target nit value of 20,000 nits.. what displays are they playing with).



Sent you another PM with BRIGHT CINEMA settings.


----------



## aoaaron

Thanks mate.

has anyone got any good solutions for black bars on 3d content? I hate them and would like to minimise them. Epson doesn’t offer a zoomwhen watching Blu-ray from what I can see .. any hints or tips?


----------



## inspector

Black bars are your friends!


----------



## Mike Garrett

aoaaron said:


> Thanks mate.
> 
> has anyone got any good solutions for black bars on 3d content? I hate them and would like to minimise them. Epson doesn’t offer a zoomwhen watching Blu-ray from what I can see .. any hints or tips?


Do you have a 5040 or a 6040? If a 6040, the new Panamorph Paladin Compact would solve that problem.


----------



## inspector

What do those run, about $1200?


----------



## nusilver

by96 said:


> I have a 6040ub and am extremely happy with it. I know the 5050/6050 have 18GB HDMI and improved HDR, and I don't imagine that either improvement would be worth doubling the cost, but I haven't seen either one in action so I really don't know. If you are the type that is unhappy unless you have the latest technology you can afford, bite the bullet and get the 5050. If you are typically happy with "almost as good," I think the 5040 is a great deal.
> 
> I read the earlier comment about MadVR and DTM and really think there is a good point there: You can use the additional money the 5050 would cost to buy sources that will make a bigger difference, like an HTPC. I actually started buying parts for one yesterday and am excited to try it out on my 6040ub.
> 
> Just remember, if you wait for the 5050 to drop in price (as refurbs), then the 5060 will be out or on its way and you will be in the same dilemma.
> 
> Good luck. In the end, I am confident you will be happy with whatever route you choose.


Thanks for that! Yeah, I definitely don't need the latest everything; I bought my OLED B7 when it was already a generation behind, and it's been fantastic. It's definitely hard to go back to a TV for movies, though, when we have a projection setup.

A HTPC is something I may invest in eventually; I have over 1,000 discs, and am discovering more failing every year. That said, I'd definitely want to wait for SSDs to go down in price before going that route; whatever rips I make, whether because I didn't have a region-free player (in the past) or because I wasn't happy with the audio or subtitle options, I tend to make completely uncompressed. 25gb+ x 1,000 discs... that's a lot of storage. 

Will let everyone know if this happens any time soon. It may have to wait until we buy the house in a few months. Hopefully not!


----------



## Mike Garrett

inspector said:


> What do those run, about $1200?


Sorry, more than double that.


----------



## imureh

A thought of HTPC is intriguing and I have a decent spare laptop sitting but it just seems overwhelming and I just can’t find a dumbed down version to how to use a laptop as a HTPC and then set up Madvr. So I am just happy with the 6040. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Mike Garrett said:


> Sorry, more than double that.


It would be wasted on a 6040.


----------



## aoaaron

I fixed my issue via MADVR. Now crops 3D image easily.


----------



## mariokrt64

I would like to verify if my 6040ub has the latest FW update.....My Info, Version Menu shows

Main....last four digXXXXXXXXV114

Video2 XXXXXXXXX111

I Just showed the last four digits...

After a little search work was able to find this from the Epson's Projectors FW Update Page.....it was not in the specific model page....

EPSONPJ_t5114_111.bin

By the looks of the 114 and 111 on the file name I thought I may have that one, but not sure....

Just to confirm, to select the HDR presets?

Image Enhancement, Image Preset Mode

I have a 5020UB and just upgraded to the 6040UB, both are refurb units....

Thanks in advance...


----------



## aoaaron

Hi does anyone here use MADVR that can share their settings?


----------



## jesped2

aoaaron said:


> Yup. I think sadly HDR in videogaming has to be left to the JVC DTM PJs and OLEDs. The HDR is just so utterly demanding in videogames.
> 
> My high end FALD TV struggled and the 6050UB did too. They have mastered some games so poorly (I've seen some games have a target nit value of 20,000 nits.. what displays are they playing with).


This guide really helps a lot with fixing HDR gaming on PC. I use Reshade instead of the Nvidia filters because there's more and more fine control, but the result is pretty much the same. With this method I was able to fix the colors in 3D HDR mode at last.









Steam Community :: Guide :: How to fix "washed out" HDR for Nvidia Users


Do you have a cutting edge gaming PC with an Nvidia GPU and an HDR monitor/television? Were you disappointed to find out that enabling HDR makes this game look dark, washed out, and drab? Worry not




steamcommunity.com


----------



## aoaaron

jesped2 said:


> This guide really helps a lot with fixing HDR gaming on PC. I use Reshade instead of the Nvidia filters because there's more and more fine control, but the result is pretty much the same. With this method I was able to fix the colors in 3D HDR mode at last.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Steam Community :: Guide :: How to fix "washed out" HDR for Nvidia Users
> 
> 
> Do you have a cutting edge gaming PC with an Nvidia GPU and an HDR monitor/television? Were you disappointed to find out that enabling HDR makes this game look dark, washed out, and drab? Worry not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> steamcommunity.com


For projector owners, I can't help but feel the SDR version is simply superior to colour grading the HDR versions.

The issue is not the HDR colours, its the tone mapping of the colours and the nit ranges which HDR video-games utilising being very difficult for a static curve to fix or follow.

I can write an essay on this but I guarantee that the HDR version of a video game will be compromised on either:
1. dark scenes
or
2. light scenes

because we don't have DTM on Epson PJs. You are better off with the properly graded SDR version.


----------



## jesped2

aoaaron said:


> For projector owners, I can't help but feel the SDR version is simply superior to colour grading the HDR versions.
> 
> The issue is not the HDR colours, its the tone mapping of the colours and the nit ranges which HDR video-games utilising being very difficult for a static curve to fix or follow.
> 
> I can write an essay on this but I guarantee that the HDR version of a video game will be compromised on either:
> 1. dark scenes
> or
> 2. light scenes
> 
> because we don't have DTM on Epson PJs. You are better off with the properly graded SDR version.


Results may vary from game to game, Windows is more difficult to fix and other projectors or models may do a better work, for sure. But I disagree. Just compared both the SDR and HDR versions of PS5's Demons Souls in a 6040UB and the HDR version looks much better.


----------



## Grayson73

mariokrt64 said:


> I would like to verify if my 6040ub has the latest FW update.....My Info, Version Menu shows
> 
> Main....last four digXXXXXXXXV114
> 
> Video2 XXXXXXXXX111


Yes, you have the latest firmware.


----------



## aoaaron

jesped2 said:


> Results may vary from game to game, Windows is more difficult to fix and other projectors or models may do a better work, for sure. But I disagree. Just compared both the SDR and HDR versions of PS5's Demons Souls in a 6040UB and the HDR version looks much better.


In what way? I found the HDR versions of the games without DTM simply either compromise blacks or the highlights.

The odds that a videogame has the exact same tone mapping curve as the Epson 6040 is.. basically non existent so I am surprised with your findings. If you could highlight how the HDR version is better than the SDR in a DARK and BRIGHT scene and one with specular highlight detail, I'd be VERY interested. In the plethora of tests I did, I found the HDR version of the game when it looked 'HDR', actually had poor dark scene performance... or when darks were dialed in and shadow detail exposed, the brighter scenes were bad with blown out highlights. If you could comment on some example scenes, would be very helpful.

Videogames are simply put POORLY tonemapped to the extent the videogame industry has had to create a HGIG (an alliance of companies to follow a set protocol and standard). This is still not fully in action so many many HDR games released up until this point in time have their own standard for HDR which no one can truly comprehend without dynamic tone mapping. This is where a JVC or OLED TV can dynamically tone map the content and colours based on the content its provided and metadata... all Epson PJs lack this feature and therefore rely on static curve (6040)... or in 6050 case multiple curves. Even with multiple curves of 6050, simply put the scenes were INACCURATE... which is common sense based on the underlying technology and mapping of nits on videogames compared to projector capability.

Are you sure its not that you just prefer the overbrightened HDR image as opposed to it being better?
Or the increased colour gamut if you were in digital cinema mode?


----------



## blastermaster

jesped2 said:


> Results may vary from game to game, Windows is more difficult to fix and other projectors or models may do a better work, for sure. But I disagree. Just compared both the SDR and HDR versions of PS5's Demons Souls in a 6040UB and the HDR version looks much better.


I'm just jealous that you're playing Demon's Souls. I held off on getting a PS5 in favour of upgrading my graphics card. But I will play Demon's Souls one day for sure. I have the old one on my PS3 and it was fantastic.


----------



## aoaaron

jesped2 said:


> Results may vary from game to game, Windows is more difficult to fix and other projectors or models may do a better work, for sure. But I disagree. Just compared both the SDR and HDR versions of PS5's Demons Souls in a 6040UB and the HDR version looks much better.



Also what was your reference for comparison? I was using a LG 77'' OLED as reference for comparison with the tone mapping engaged. 

As I said, some might 'prefer' the HDR image.. for whatever subjective reason/taste.. just like someone might like dynamic mode on a TV over cinema mode.. but for accuracy's sake, I struggle to understand how a projector can map HDR properly without DTM. 

The tangible benefit from HDR which I will agree to is increased colour gamut, but I don't think its worth a lot if the tone mapping isn't on point as its just going to be a bit of a mess compared to what it should look like. 



(Tested using a PS4 Pro and Gaming PC at the time)


----------



## aoaaron

blastermaster said:


> I'm just jealous that you're playing Demon's Souls. I held off on getting a PS5 in favour of upgrading my graphics card. But I will play Demon's Souls one day for sure. I have the old one on my PS3 and it was fantastic.



Also this. I am also jealous you are playing Demon Souls remake. That game looks god damn incredible. I still do have Dark Souls 3 to play.. but man the Demon Souls game just looks so amazing. 


BTW sorry if I got technical with this discussion. I am sure the HDR image looks 'nice' to your eyes but for sake of image accuracy and which one is the right image, I just don't believe a projector without DTM can handle HDR gaming due to the substandard and irratic method game developers implimented HDR up until the HGIG (which not all developers are opted into even now and its a tone mapping protocol no projector has [jvc might have it.. god knows])


----------



## blastermaster

aoaaron said:


> Also this. I am also jealous you are playing Demon Souls remake. That game looks god damn incredible. I still do have Dark Souls 3 to play.. but man the Demon Souls game just looks so amazing.
> 
> 
> BTW sorry if I got technical with this discussion. I am sure the HDR image looks 'nice' to your eyes but for sake of image accuracy and which one is the right image, I just don't believe a projector without DTM can handle HDR gaming due to the substandard and irratic method game developers implimented HDR up until the HGIG (which not all developers are opted into even now and its a tone mapping protocol no projector has [jvc might have it.. god knows])


Man, I have logged 196 hours on DS1, 226 on DS2 and 145 on DS3. That being said, it's crazy that my absolute favourite games right now on PC are Ni No Kuni 1 remastered and Ni No Kuni 2. Don't judge a book by it's cover - you may play as a ten year old in both games, but they are the most engaging and fun JRPG's I've played in a really, really long time. The colors pop on my 6040.


----------



## aoaaron

blastermaster said:


> Man, I have logged 196 hours on DS1, 226 on DS2 and 145 on DS3. That being said, it's crazy that my absolute favourite games right now on PC are Ni No Kuni 1 remastered and Ni No Kuni 2. Don't judge a book by it's cover - you may play as a ten year old in both games, but they are the most engaging and fun JRPG's I've played in a really, really long time. The colors pop on my 6040.


How is DS2? I tried to play it but the first hour just did not grab me how DS1 did. DS1 I was entranced. DS2 just felt... weird. 
Played DS3 for 20 minutes and the atmosphere felt back to normal. 
NNK1 is AMAZING. I LOVE it. I felt like I was playing an anime film.Haven't played NNK2 yet.. got a bit sad and butt hurt they ditched the pokemon mechanic cos that was my favorute part of the first game.


----------



## jesped2

aoaaron said:


> In what way? I found the HDR versions of the games without DTM simply either compromise blacks or the highlights.


Yes, I know what you mean. Specially now that my lamp has almost 2800 hours of use. 

In the PS5 I just lift the darks a bit in the HDR calibration.

In PC, Reshade ( ReShade ) can do pretty much everything and supports HDR.

You have for example PD80_03_Shadows_Midtones_Highlights.fx, which features Exposure, Brightness, Contrast, Tint, Saturation and Vibrance independent controls for Shadows, Midtones and Highlights.

Prod80 has a whole bunch of shaders that work pretty well: Prod80's shader library

You can set all kinds of LUTs, there are shaders for Eye Adaptation and Adaptive Tonemapping...

It is harder in the 3D mode and I am not very technical, but I think I got pretty good results there too with all these tools at hand, some patience and the good old trial and error. Give it a try, you only have some time to loose. And even if you don't end up liking the result, there's plenty of other effects you can benefit from in Reshade. I use it with Superdepth3D ( Post-Process shaders for ReShade, Freestyle, & Ansel ) to play all PC games in 3D at no extra performance cost, which is amazing.






And yep, Demons Souls not only looks amazing, it sounds amazing too.


----------



## aoaaron

jesped2 said:


> Yes, I know what you mean. Specially now that my lamp has almost 2800 hours of use.
> 
> In the PS5 I just lift the darks a bit in the HDR calibration.
> 
> In PC, Reshade ( ReShade ) can do pretty much everything and supports HDR.
> 
> You have for example PD80_03_Shadows_Midtones_Highlights.fx, which features Exposure, Brightness, Contrast, Tint, Saturation and Vibrance independent controls for Shadows, Midtones and Highlights.
> 
> Prod80 has a whole bunch of shaders that work pretty well: Prod80's shader library
> 
> You can set all kinds of LUTs, there are shaders for Eye Adaptation and Adaptive Tonemapping...
> 
> It is harder in the 3D mode and I am not very technical, but I think I got pretty good results there too with all these tools at hand, some patience and the good old trial and error. Give it a try, you only have some time to loose. And even if you don't end up liking the result, there's plenty of other effects you can benefit from in Reshade. I use it with Superdepth3D ( https://github.com/BlueSkyDefender/Depth3D ) to play all PC games in 3D at no extra performance cost, which is amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yep, Demons Souls not only looks amazing, it sounds amazing too.



I appreciate your efforts but if you are having to reshade a game and apply custom LUTs, then you can safely assume the HDR is subpar and broken or at least beyond use. 

We are not photo/video edittors or colour graders. We are gamers. The SDR version as I said before is the best bet. If you want to play photoshop/instagram filter on a videogame, then I agree.. engage HDR, boot up reshade or even just do NVIDIA freestyle filters and engage the reshade plugins they have and have fun. I did it for a few games.. its fun.. but thats all it is. Its not directors intent and it isn't accurate and sometimes it can look very messy. 

Its nice to be able to play around with HDR version with colour mapping tools... but SDR is clearly the way to go. The initial 'wow' going HDR is just the brightness. Once people realise that brightness costs them total perceived contrast and dark scene performance alongside image accuracy.. they will usually start to agree with me  

But I am glad I have met another video-game-grader. I did (IMO) an AMAZING job on Nier with a reshade I did. it looked BEAUTIFUL.. lol.. but it wasn't the same direction as Nier as I realised.


----------



## blastermaster

aoaaron said:


> How is DS2? I tried to play it but the first hour just did not grab me how DS1 did. DS1 I was entranced. DS2 just felt... weird.
> Played DS3 for 20 minutes and the atmosphere felt back to normal.
> NNK1 is AMAZING. I LOVE it. I felt like I was playing an anime film.Haven't played NNK2 yet.. got a bit sad and butt hurt they ditched the pokemon mechanic cos that was my favorute part of the first game.


Omigosh, DS2 is amazing. I'm loving NNK1. I did not like it at all at first, as the battle mechanics are so much more cumbersome than NNK2 (which I played first and fighting is fluid and intuitive). After many hours, I've finally learned to like the mechanics and LOVE my tamed characters. I wasn't able to get super widescreen enabled on NNK1 like I was on NNK2, as I have the 6040 with an anamorphic lens. Playing PC games in that aspect ratio is the reason I don't really like consoles.


----------



## aoaaron

blastermaster said:


> Omigosh, DS2 is amazing. I'm loving NNK1. I did not like it at all at first, as the battle mechanics are so much more cumbersome than NNK2 (which I played first and fighting is fluid and intuitive). After many hours, I've finally learned to like the mechanics and LOVE my tamed characters. I wasn't able to get super widescreen enabled on NNK1 like I was on NNK2, as I have the 6040 with an anamorphic lens. Playing PC games in that aspect ratio is the reason I don't really like consoles.


after i finish persona 5 (god knows when) and nier.... ill hit up NNK 2 then I thinjk


----------



## Jkoravos

I'm making a custom mount for my 5040UB but I can't find the mounting bolt pattern and mounting bolt thread size/pitch anywhere in the user guide. Maybe I'm missing it. Can anyone point me to where I might find this info?


----------



## aoaaron

Jkoravos said:


> I'm making a custom mount for my 5040UB but I can't find the mounting bolt pattern and mounting bolt thread size/pitch anywhere in the user guide. Maybe I'm missing it. Can anyone point me to where I might find this info?


sorry mate this is beyond me. it took me 10 minutes to find where to put the power cable


----------



## Tibor Makai

Maybe this one?!








Epson TW9400/7400 information


It maybe but the mounting points are still 300 x 160 mm, although the 9400 has more than one position choice.. 9000:- 9400:-




www.avforums.com


----------



## mariokrt64

mariokrt64 said:


> I would like to verify if my 6040ub has the latest FW update.....My Info, Version Menu shows
> 
> Main....last four digXXXXXXXXV114
> 
> Video2 XXXXXXXXX111
> 
> I Just showed the last four digits...
> 
> After a little search work was able to find this from the Epson's Projectors FW Update Page.....it was not in the specific model page....
> 
> EPSONPJ_t5114_111.bin
> 
> By the looks of the 114 and 111 on the file name I thought I may have that one, but not sure....
> 
> Just to confirm, to select the HDR presets?
> 
> Image Enhancement, Image Preset Mode
> 
> I have a 5020UB and just upgraded to the 6040UB, both are refurb units....
> 
> Thanks in advance...


Anyone know about this....? Help is appreciatted....


----------



## Tibor Makai

V114 is the latest one.


----------



## mariokrt64

Tibor Makai said:


> V114 is the latest one.


Looks that' the one I got....wonder what Video2 XXXXXXX111 stands for, though......thanks...


----------



## aoaaron

Just to follow on from conversation I think we had earlier on this thread, here is another example of a game where SDR should be picked instead of HDR. I get HDR 'looks nicer'.. but its just not right. It just looks nicer because its slightly over brightened and over exposed most of the time. 
As I sad before, I think without DTM/HGIG, HDR is a real real guessing game, and as Vincent has shown here even WITH them, its not ideal. 
What users see with the eyes might be PLEASING in HDR gaming but i 95% of the time think its a placebo effect of being happy because the image is a bright brighter and u see a HDR badge. The actual quality of image, perceived contrast, deep blacks, accurate colours.. are not going to be there as common as SDr versions for a lot of games, then take into account mapping to ur displays capability which epson can't do easily.


----------



## Jkoravos

Tibor Makai said:


> Maybe this one?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson TW9400/7400 information
> 
> 
> It maybe but the mounting points are still 300 x 160 mm, although the 9400 has more than one position choice.. 9000:- 9400:-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avforums.com


Yes, thank you, it turned out to be the same pattern as they show in that thread.


----------



## blastermaster

aoaaron said:


> Just to follow on from conversation I think we had earlier on this thread, here is another example of a game where SDR should be picked instead of HDR. I get HDR 'looks nicer'.. but its just not right. It just looks nicer because its slightly over brightened and over exposed most of the time.
> As I sad before, I think without DTM/HGIG, HDR is a real real guessing game, and as Vincent has shown here even WITH them, its not ideal.
> What users see with the eyes might be PLEASING in HDR gaming but i 95% of the time think its a placebo effect of being happy because the image is a bright brighter and u see a HDR badge. The actual quality of image, perceived contrast, deep blacks, accurate colours.. are not going to be there as common as SDr versions for a lot of games, then take into account mapping to ur displays capability which epson can't do easily.


Interesting. I just fired up that game last night on my HTPC and it looks amazing. I'll have to see what default settings it's using. If it's HDR, I'll set it to none and see if that makes a difference. Again, as it stands, it looks pretty awesome to me and I'm glad I upgraded my computer. Buttery smooth on max everything!


----------



## aoaaron

blastermaster said:


> Interesting. I just fired up that game last night on my HTPC and it looks amazing. I'll have to see what default settings it's using. If it's HDR, I'll set it to none and see if that makes a difference. Again, as it stands, it looks pretty awesome to me and I'm glad I upgraded my computer. Buttery smooth on max everything!


I'm sure it looks amazing. Its the best graphical fidelity game released this year... but looking amazing doesn't mean the HDR is perfect or correct.

I think people get mixed up a lot the subjective and objective of HDR representation. 

I can set my TV to gamma 2.2 or 2.4 for 'deep contrasy blacks', and then increase contrast, increase OLED Light... trust me the image will look gorgeous but doesn't mean it looks accurate or right.

HDR in videogames jack up the highlights a lot, make everything whcih is bright and bit more brighter but in turn things around it have to be more dull, and they heighten blackfloor inadvertently.. but the highlights and pop make people think 'wow this HDR is amazing'..


----------



## pbc

aoaaron said:


> Also this. I am also jealous you are playing Demon Souls remake. That game looks god damn incredible. I still do have Dark Souls 3 to play.. but man the Demon Souls game just looks so amazing.
> 
> 
> BTW sorry if I got technical with this discussion. I am sure the HDR image looks 'nice' to your eyes but for sake of image accuracy and which one is the right image, I just don't believe a projector without DTM can handle HDR gaming due to the substandard and irratic method game developers implimented HDR up until the HGIG (which not all developers are opted into even now and its a tone mapping protocol no projector has [jvc might have it.. god knows])


Curious..is DTM something that can be added via firmware? Doubtful Epson would add it to the xx40 line or even xx50 I guess. 

Have been debating whether to jump into the PJ game with a refurbed 5040. I don't plan on gaming, just TV, streaming, movies and sports. 

But keep going back and forth with the 5040 (vs "just" an 85" tv) given the HDR improvements and 10 vs 18gbps HDMI on the 5050. Then at the same time wonder if it will be even noticeable with most content.


----------



## vvume

I recently purchased a refurbished 6040UB projected on a 120" 16:9 screen. The blacks in the movie content are fantastic but the black bars that appear in the top and bottom in cinemascope movies are not dark enough for the settings I am using and is very distracting. Has anyone tried building something like a frame to be put in front of the lens to only allow light in the 2.4:1 content area and physically block light hitting the top and bottom black bars to make it darker? Something I can easily put in front for cinemascope movies but remove it for 16:9 ones (my projector is at a level I can easily reach up to).


----------



## Dominic Chan

vvume said:


> I recently purchased a refurbished 6040UB projected on a 120" 16:9 screen. The blacks in the movie content are fantastic but the black bars that appear in the top and bottom in cinemascope movies are not dark enough for the settings I am using and is very distracting. Has anyone tried building something like a frame to be put in front of the lens to only allow light in the 2.4:1 content area and physically block light hitting the top and bottom black bars to make it darker? Something I can easily put in front for cinemascope movies but remove it for 16:9 ones (my projector is at a level I can easily reach up to).


In many cases the greyness of the black bars is caused by room reflections
Even if it’s due to the projector, it’s better to mask the screen rather than the projector.


----------



## mrpandahead

Hi guys, just received my ps5 yesterday. Regardless of whether you think hdr is worth it on this projector for games or not, I definitely am getting 4k60 hdr 4:2:0 with my hdfury linker with the ps5. I can send some pictures tonight if people want proof. I have a Vinciper 4k audio extractor in the chain (ps5 to hdfury linker to Vinciper audio extractor then to projector). Optical goes out from the Vinciper to my DAC and then amp to speakers. In case you're wondering the Vinciper was from Amazon at 17 bucks it's the one that says 4k hdr audio extractor. On the linker it's the 3rd setting for edid (the one that's meant for the Epson wired). Anyway it worked pretty much right away, didn't have to mess with anything. On Epson menu info it says 4k hdr 60hz. Even if not for games it would be helpful for the streamer portion of the ps5. I am not using the hdmi cable that came with the ps5, but the hdmi cable I was using previously with my nvidia shield.


----------



## NoUse4AName68

Hey all, looking for some advice. We have a living room projector, 5040ub throwing from about 12’ to a 110” screen. Our walls are white and the room has some ambient light and my wife is not willing to paint. We’ve had this project for about a year and a half and I love it but it’s started to get to me that the visual quality is not as good as it can be, but I’m not sure what my options are.
We’re currently using a manual pull down cheap screen, but we bought some elite screen samples and I don’t notice a lot of difference with them. So I’m guessing the light is the issue. Would switching to a brighter projector like the Benq tk850 provide a better image in our room? Or is the screen going to make a bigger difference.


----------



## WynsWrld98

NoUse4AName68 said:


> Hey all, looking for some advice. We have a living room projector, 5040ub throwing from about 12’ to a 110” screen. Our walls are white and the room has some ambient light and my wife is not willing to paint. We’ve had this project for about a year and a half and I love it but it’s started to get to me that the visual quality is not as good as it can be, but I’m not sure what my options are.
> We’re currently using a manual pull down cheap screen, but we bought some elite screen samples and I don’t notice a lot of difference with them. So I’m guessing the light is the issue. Would switching to a brighter projector like the Benq tk850 provide a better image in our room? Or is the screen going to make a bigger difference.


Is she open to painting the wall that has the screen on it a dark color?


----------



## NoUse4AName68

WynsWrld98 said:


> Is she open to painting the wall that has the screen on it a dark color?


Unfortunately no, she's very set on having the walls the way they are if at all possible.


----------



## WynsWrld98

NoUse4AName68 said:


> Unfortunately no, she's very set on having the walls the way they are if at all possible.


I think you'd be better off with a flat screen.


----------



## roland6465

My thought as well. If you can't darken the room, you'll never be happy with a front projection setup. Hell, I have a 98% dark room, and am not always happy with the blacks from my Sony 285ES. Sell the projector and screen and put it toward a big panel and you'll get more satisfaction.


----------



## pbc

pbc said:


> Curious..is DTM something that can be added via firmware? Doubtful Epson would add it to the xx40 line or even xx50 I guess.
> 
> Have been debating whether to jump into the PJ game with a refurbed 5040. I don't plan on gaming, just TV, streaming, movies and sports.
> 
> But keep going back and forth with the 5040 (vs "just" an 85" tv) given the HDR improvements and 10 vs 18gbps HDMI on the 5050. Then at the same time wonder if it will be even noticeable with most content.


Just bumping this, any thoughts on the 5040 in this scenario? Is the HDR for movies that much better with the 5050, and re: 18 v 10 gbps would that come into play mostly for gaming only?


----------



## slinger45

mrpandahead said:


> Hi guys, just received my ps5 yesterday. Regardless of whether you think hdr is worth it on this projector for games or not, I definitely am getting 4k60 hdr 4:2:0 with my hdfury linker with the ps5. I can send some pictures tonight if people want proof. I have a Vinciper 4k audio extractor in the chain (ps5 to hdfury linker to Vinciper audio extractor then to projector). Optical goes out from the Vinciper to my DAC and then amp to speakers. In case you're wondering the Vinciper was from Amazon at 17 bucks it's the one that says 4k hdr audio extractor. On the linker it's the 3rd setting for edid (the one that's meant for the Epson wired). Anyway it worked pretty much right away, didn't have to mess with anything. On Epson menu info it says 4k hdr 60hz. Even if not for games it would be helpful for the streamer portion of the ps5. I am not using the hdmi cable that came with the ps5, but the hdmi cable I was using previously with my nvidia shield.


I wasn't able to get it to work when I tried when I got my PS5, I haven't tried your setting yet. When you say the third setting you are talking about in the drop down menu in the Linker software right?


----------



## aoaaron

pbc said:


> Just bumping this, any thoughts on the 5040 in this scenario? Is the HDR for movies that much better with the 5050, and re: 18 v 10 gbps would that come into play mostly for gaming only?


10 vs 18 effects 4K 60 HDR content.

The only 4K HDR 60 consumer content I'm aware of is :
1. HFR youtube 4K HDR videos
2. The film Gemini Man in 4K HDR
3. 4K HDR Videogames 

For 4K HDR video-games, I suggest you use SDR anyway because the HDR tonemapping on games really benefits from DTM, which neither the xx40 or xx50 uses and the HDR versions of games, frankly, are still pretty poorly masters (see Cyberpunk HDR). 


The 5050 does have a HDR slider which is better than not having a HDR slider. However the better option is DTM (MADVR HTPC, MADVR ENVY or Lumagen will get you this for HDR10content or a HDVerex can get it you for DOlby Vision Content).


----------



## Dominic Chan

aoaaron said:


> 10 vs 18 effects 4K 60 HDR content.
> 
> The only 4K HDR 60 consumer content I'm aware of is :
> 1. HFR youtube 4K HDR videos
> 2. The film Gemini Man in 4K HDR
> 3. 4K HDR Videogames
> 
> For 4K HDR video-games, I suggest you use SDR anyway because the HDR tonemapping on games really benefits from DTM, which neither the xx40 or xx50 uses and the HDR versions of games, frankly, are still pretty poorly masters (see Cyberpunk HDR).
> 
> 
> The 5050 does have a HDR slider which is better than not having a HDR slider. However the better option is DTM (MADVR HTPC, MADVR ENVY or Lumagen will get you this for HDR10content or a HDVerex can get it you for DOlby Vision Content).


Many streaming boxes use 60fps, even when the source material is 24fps.


----------



## aoaaron

Dominic Chan said:


> Many streaming boxes use 60fps, even when the source material is 24fps.



I'd buy a better streaming box which uses native framerate for best motion personally.


----------



## Dominic Chan

aoaaron said:


> I'd buy a better streaming box which uses native framerate for best motion personally.


Maybe so, but many 4K TV shows are 60 fps, unlike movies which are mostly 24 FPS.


----------



## pbc

Dominic Chan said:


> Maybe so, but many 4K TV shows are 60 fps, unlike movies which are mostly 24 FPS.


How would that impact a decision on buying a 5040?


----------



## bigdad56

So what would be better on my 5040's bulb life and overal life of my projector.

1. Turning the entire projector off and then turning it back on in about an hour
2. put it on black mode (the top right button of the remote)

I've read mixed things and as always when I want legit info I turn to AVS Forum


----------



## aoaaron

Dominic Chan said:


> Maybe so, but many 4K TV shows are 60 fps, unlike movies which are mostly 24 FPS.



which TV shows are 60fps?
99% are native 24p.


----------



## WynsWrld98

aoaaron said:


> 10 vs 18 effects 4K 60 HDR content.
> 
> The only 4K HDR 60 consumer content I'm aware of is :
> 1. HFR youtube 4K HDR videos
> 2. The film Gemini Man in 4K HDR
> 3. 4K HDR Videogames
> 
> For 4K HDR video-games, I suggest you use SDR anyway because the HDR tonemapping on games really benefits from DTM, which neither the xx40 or xx50 uses and the HDR versions of games, frankly, are still pretty poorly masters (see Cyberpunk HDR).
> 
> 
> The 5050 does have a HDR slider which is better than not having a HDR slider. However the better option is DTM (MADVR HTPC, MADVR ENVY or Lumagen will get you this for HDR10content or a HDVerex can get it you for DOlby Vision Content).


No streaming help with MadVR


----------



## aoaaron

WynsWrld98 said:


> No streaming help with MadVR



Yup. HD Vertex for Dolby Vision.
For HDR10 streaming, you are sadly right in that MADVR can't help. This is where 6050/5050 HDR slider is superior to the default single tone mapping curve the 5040 has.

I only watch local content via HTPC TBH. I can imagine for the average Joe with an amazon fire stick or apple TV or NVIDIA shield and a bluray player, the 5050/6050's HDR slider will be useful.

For someone who is more tech-inclined and is willing to run local content via HTPC, MADVR +/- a HD Vertex for Dolby Vision, they'll get a superior PQ & experience to the 5050/6050 @ stock with a HDR slider. But HTPC, MADVR and HD Vertex all have learning curves and workflow changes.


----------



## danger dan

I currently use a Sony BDP-S370 for blu-ray playback. Wondering how much I would benefit picture quality wise on the 5040UB if I upgraded to a Panasonic UB820 player? Anyone do a similar upgrade that can chime in? Also, I'm not trying to chase HDR but may down the road with a projector upgrade. I can buy an open box UB820 for $300.00. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Rumor has it there are those with 5040's who use Lumagen's with them so I wanted to head over here to learn of others experiences. I'm seriously considering adding one to my 5050 but wanted to get the experiences of other 5040/5050 users and see if they felt it was worth their investment and what was the improvement they appreciated the most from the Lumagen. Thanks to all who can offer an opinion.


----------



## mtcross

b_scott said:


> the 5040UB will accept 4k/60 8-bit HDR. for games. This is because that bitrate is JUST under the max gbps the port will accept.
> 
> Xbox One X / Series X/S ---->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: 4K HDMI Splitter 1x2 HDR D-o-l-b-y Vision Atmos Down Scaler - HDMI Scaler 4K 1080P Sync,4K 60Hz 4:4:4 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out HDCP2.2, EDID 4K5.1/4K7.1/ Copy, for Game Xbox PS5 1080p120Hz Roku SP12H2 : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy 4K HDMI Splitter 1x2 HDR D-o-l-b-y Vision Atmos Down Scaler - HDMI Scaler 4K 1080P Sync,4K 60Hz 4:4:4 HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out HDCP2.2, EDID 4K5.1/4K7.1/ Copy, for Game Xbox PS5 1080p120Hz Roku SP12H2: Splitters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Monoprice 127330 HDFury 4K Linker | Ultra Scaling Up to [email protected], 4:4:4, 600MHz : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy Monoprice 127330 HDFury 4K Linker | Ultra Scaling Up to [email protected], 4:4:4, 600MHz: Splitters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----> AVR > Epson 5040 (and I assume 6040, 5050, 6050)
> 
> this works for HDR gaming. So far the PS5 has no solution.


Please clarify. I am obtaining a XBox series X for Christmas for my kids, and have a 5040UB. I didn't realize the HDR problem until now. So, are you saying the splitter is used to reduce the HDR signal to 8 bit, so the 5040 can use the USB 2.2 port to accept 4K/60Hz/HDR? Thanks in advance - looking to have everything right on Xmas.


----------



## sleepingatsea

My projector setup is in our lounge and not what I'd call an 'ideal' HT however have been pretty pleased overall except for the black levels/contrast. Here is a pic of the lounge with everything open. We have black-out dark curtains which block all the light out however I would love some suggestions on what would be best bang for buck to get a better experience. 
One thing I also want to look at is lowering the projector screen further off the room. Unfortunately this screen can't be adjusted and I feel like it is too high and my neck hurts from looking upwards. 
Cheers!


----------



## thenimchimpsky

Just purchased a 5040ub from the Epson Store (refurbished) and set up a new screen, the projector, finished alignment and then sent an hdmi signal to test is and Voilla!

It shuts down. Blinking Blue Statue, Blinking Orange Lamp.

WHOMP WHOMP.

Tried some other hdmi cables, input 2, sources. Nothing.

Had a chat with Epson support this morning. They said it was the auto-iris probably, and sent me back to the Epson Store for a replacement. They're overnighting another, but I think I'm just going to buy a cheap 2250 from my local Bestbuy and return it (plus restocking fee) while I wait for this to get sorted out. I asked both the techs and the Epson store what the hell is going on with their QC if they're sending a dead refurbished unit. Mentioned people sending back 2 or 3 units to get one that works properly. (They're kind of robotic.)


----------



## bigdad56

I


mtcross said:


> Please clarify. I am obtaining a XBox series X for Christmas for my kids, and have a 5040UB. I didn't realize the HDR problem until now. So, are you saying the splitter is used to reduce the HDR signal to 8 bit, so the 5040 can use the USB 2.2 port to accept 4K/60Hz/HDR? Thanks in advance - looking to have everything right on Xmas.


I have a ps5 outputting to my 5040 and it looks amazing. It does not recognize HDR though, but the HDR on projectors is essentially faux unless it's a super high end one.


----------



## Dark Rider

bigdad56 said:


> I have a ps5 outputting to my 5040 and it looks amazing. It does not recognize HDR though, but the HDR on projectors is essentially faux unless it's a super high end one.


As soon as I can score one, I'll be picking up a PS5 to run with my 5040. I'll also likely run 4K/60 SDR, as there are just too many hurdles to try and get HDR running on our units with the PS5 at 4K.


----------



## tibimakai

thenimchimpsky said:


> Just purchased a 5040ub from the Epson Store (refurbished) and set up a new screen, the projector, finished alignment and then sent an hdmi signal to test is and Voilla!
> 
> It shuts down. Blinking Blue Statue, Blinking Orange Lamp.
> 
> WHOMP WHOMP.
> 
> Tried some other hdmi cables, input 2, sources. Nothing.
> 
> Had a chat with Epson support this morning. They said it was the auto-iris probably, and sent me back to the Epson Store for a replacement. They're overnighting another, but I think I'm just going to buy a cheap 2250 from my local Bestbuy and return it (plus restocking fee) while I wait for this to get sorted out. I asked both the techs and the Epson store what the hell is going on with their QC if they're sending a dead refurbished unit. Mentioned people sending back 2 or 3 units to get one that works properly. (They're kind of robotic.)


I don't think that you can return you pj, and get back your money.


----------



## solar17

Folks - got a refurb 5040ub and on power up I often get an error "Cannot switch the lens iris" - this seems different than the wording of the auto iris error message that many others seem to get and the projector works fine otherwise. I can trigger the same error by going into settings and trying to manually close the iris settings under Advanced; the screen dims and you get the error.

However disabling or enabling the auto iris from off/normal/fast doesn't give an error.

Any thoughts? Is there a way to tell if the auto iris is working? Can folks tell me if they are able to adjust the iris through settings on the 5040ub without issue? Does anyine actually use this function? Would be grateful for any advice or experience folks can share.


----------



## danger dan

thenimchimpsky said:


> Just purchased a 5040ub from the Epson Store (refurbished) and set up a new screen, the projector, finished alignment and then sent an hdmi signal to test is and Voilla!
> 
> It shuts down. Blinking Blue Statue, Blinking Orange Lamp.
> 
> WHOMP WHOMP.
> 
> Tried some other hdmi cables, input 2, sources. Nothing.
> 
> Had a chat with Epson support this morning. They said it was the auto-iris probably, and sent me back to the Epson Store for a replacement. They're overnighting another, but I think I'm just going to buy a cheap 2250 from my local Bestbuy and return it (plus restocking fee) while I wait for this to get sorted out. I asked both the techs and the Epson store what the hell is going on with their QC if they're sending a dead refurbished unit. Mentioned people sending back 2 or 3 units to get one that works properly. (They're kind of robotic.)


Do you by chance have an Apple 4k streamer in your system? I thought I had a lemon 5040ub but came to find out the Apple device was sending a signal to the projector shutting it down. I disabled something on the Apple and the issue was resolved. Can't recall what now but I did post specifics about it at the time over on the Refurb Epson 5040ub thread.


----------



## avtoronto

danger dan said:


> Do you by chance have an Apple 4k streamer in your system? I thought I had a lemon 5040ub but came to find out the Apple device was sending a signal to the projector shutting it down. I disabled something on the Apple and the issue was resolved. Can't recall what now but I did post specifics about it at the time over on the Refurb Epson 5040ub thread.


If you enable the ATV to control your receiver, it will send a signal via HDMI to turn off/on the projector via your receiver. I have this enabled and use Siri to turn on or off my equipment; it works well, despite many who have had some problems with this.


----------



## BradP

Question for you guys about Extended HDMI range. So I'm using Natural out of the box for SDR content, looks great but only when I turn the HDMI range to AUTO or standard range (deeper blacks). Extended and things are just too washed out in SDR mode. 

Now, on the flip side, when I run HDR content using HarperVision settings, it is SO dark I have to turn AUTO off and force extended HDMI range to on just to lighten up the dark areas. This may be crushing the deeper blacks but without Extended turned on, in dark scenes I'm basically just looking at such darkness there's no detail and I can barely see. This is in a pitch black room by the way.

Anyone else experienced this and have any suggestions on what worked for them? I may just need a pro calibration for my screen and room but it's a little annoying. Further, I'm a bit confused on why Auto HDMI range seems to always select "standard" and not "extended" range, where extended absolutely makes a difference at least in HDR modes for being able to see detail in dark scenes.

Any pointers would be appreciated, Merry Christmas to all 5040 owners!


----------



## vvume

The 6040UB appears to be using a non-standard 12v out trigger stereo jack (unlike the mono jack that most triggers use). I recently bought the Elite Screens VMAX135XWH2 and trying out their wireless 12v trigger ZSP-TR03 and it did not work. I discovered the trigger worked on my Denon AVR-X3200W (but did not want to use it as the trigger as it also connected to the TV when I may not want the screen to come down), and so I did some multi-meter tests using a stereo cable to find that it was sending a 12v signal only on the Red-White wires of a stereo cable.

Question: Will a standard stereo to mono adapter solve this problem (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E2XZYC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)? Or will I need to do my own custom wiring (Amazon.com: 3.5mm 2 Pole Mono Audio Male to 2 Screw Terminal Female Single Track Headphone Replacement Solderless Balum Converter Adapter (2-Pack): Home Audio & Theater


----------



## bommai

I just found out about v1.14 firmware update and updated my projector. Does anyone have a change log between 1.12 and 1.14. Don’t know if I see anything different. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## mtcross

Help 5040ub has buzzing sound w hdmi signal. This just started, unit is a refurb w about 120 hours. The projector makes a buzzing or humming sound when it receives signal on hdmi- I used to be able to turn it off and on again and the sound stopped but this workaround isn’t working now. I have tried inputs from a pc or my receiver and the sound happens w either. It is not a cable problem. The unit only makes the sound once the signal starts. So for example , if I switch inputs on the receiver, the sound goes away while the projector doesn’t receive signal for the second or two the receiver takes to switch . However once the signal comes, the hum starts. Any ideas are appreciated. I can send the unit in per the warranty but I prefer not to if able. 
FYI I did search this forum and others but couldn’t find a solution .


----------



## b_scott

mtcross said:


> Please clarify. I am obtaining a XBox series X for Christmas for my kids, and have a 5040UB. I didn't realize the HDR problem until now. So, are you saying the splitter is used to reduce the HDR signal to 8 bit, so the 5040 can use the USB 2.2 port to accept 4K/60Hz/HDR? Thanks in advance - looking to have everything right on Xmas.


Sorry I'm late on this - it seems that the splitter converts the signal to something that the HD Fury will actually accept to downconvert to 8 bit for 4K/60/HDR for gaming.


----------



## rsmclay

I have been using the 5040 since July and have loved it. I got it from the Epson clearance store and it was just perfect. I popped in Tenet last night and watched about an hour and then shut it down so the whole family can watch tonight. Fired it up and got the dreaded auto iris error....

I turned it off, unplugged it for about 30 minutes and tried again. Same issue. I called support and without hesitation they are sending me a replacement. I mean all I had to say was the error I guess, because they didn't have me go through any other steps. 

I'm thankful they're sending me a replacement, but I am super nervous too. I didn't have any blob issues or anything like that. It totally threw the auto iris issue without any sort of warning. I sure hope the new one is alright...


----------



## carlobenavidesahavia

Hi guys..... having a problem with my 5040ub with the screen intermittently blanking out I am using a fiber optic hdmi cable. What could be the problem? I habe it connected to a pioneer vsx-lx503 and using a htpc with madvr as a source with an nVidia 2070 video card.....

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

carlobenavidesahavia said:


> Hi guys..... having a problem with my 5040ub with the screen intermittently blanking out I am using a fiber optic hdmi cable. What could be the problem? I habe it connected to a pioneer vsx-lx503 and using a htpc with madvr as a source with an nVidia 2070 video card.....
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


if the PC is occasionally sending a signal over 11Gbps, it could be overloading the input on the projector.


----------



## carlobenavidesahavia

b_scott said:


> if the PC is occasionally sending a signal over 11Gbps, it could be overloading the input on the projector.


How do I fix that? Should I get a lower spec hdmi cable like 1.4 version?

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

carlobenavidesahavia said:


> How do I fix that? Should I get a lower spec hdmi cable like 1.4 version?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


I would make sure you're only sending a 10 bit signal for 24fps content, and an 8 bit signal for 60fps content. I'm not sure how MadVR handles that.


----------



## carlobenavidesahavia

b_scott said:


> I would make sure you're only sending a 10 bit signal for 24fps content, and an 8 bit signal for 60fps content. I'm not sure how MadVR handles that.


You are talking about the color depth settings right? Thanks I found that I could change it on the graphic card settings. Gonna try this oit with one movie and check back









Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Remy.Alexander

About to pull trigger on 5040ub, but I hear HDR sucks, almost all of our content on our plex server is HDR. We use a Nvidia Shield Pro for app handling. Looking for real world users experience.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Remy.Alexander said:


> About to pull trigger on 5040ub, but I hear HDR sucks, almost all of our content on our plex server is HDR. We use a Nvidia Shield Pro for app handling. Looking for real world users experience.


5040UB owner, disagree all HDR content sucks, I have separate presets for streaming HDR and disc HDR and they work well for most titles, on rare titles I have to tweak preset for an HDR movie (but then I don't overwrite my setting) but that is rare. If I run into problems it's usually a title was mastered very dark but then I tweak settings to compensate.


----------



## b_scott

carlobenavidesahavia said:


> You are talking about the color depth settings right? Thanks I found that I could change it on the graphic card settings. Gonna try this oit with one movie and check back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Correct. Give it a shot.


----------



## carlobenavidesahavia

b_scott said:


> Correct. Give it a shot.


Just turning it down to 8 bit didn't work but when I turned down the refresh rate to 30hz as well. The intermittent blackouts stopped. Thanks a lot for the help 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Juboy

Remy.Alexander said:


> About to pull trigger on 5040ub, but I hear HDR sucks, almost all of our content on our plex server is HDR. We use a Nvidia Shield Pro for app handling. Looking for real world users experience.


Once set up correctly, the HDR image it can achieve is more than satisfying and, sometimes, fairly jaw-dropping. I have mine in a position at the end of the viewing room and have an LG OLED TV between the screen and the viewing position, which means I can view both at once. The projector obviously doesn't hit the same brightness and contrast fireworks of the OLED but the image really isn't a million miles off.
All of that said, 1080p SDR can also look so good on this PJ (especially when using the Shield's AI enhancement) that the jump between the two is nowhere near as marked as one might expect.


----------



## rsmclay

My replacement 5040 comes today. Since it will be sitting on a FedEx truck until they ring my doorbell, should I let it come up to temp in the house prior to plugging in and turning it on? I assume yes, and if so how long do you leave it alone before you fire that puppy up?


----------



## b_scott

if it were me, if I had the time I would wait a day. I wouldn't want to get fogging or moisture in the lens.

I AM NOT AN EXPERT ON THIS.


----------



## rsmclay

Thanks @b_scott that's what I assumed as well.


----------



## b_scott

as for HDR, try Harpervision settings. It converts "HDR" input to SDR but with increased contrast and color. It looks good.









Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread


I bought the Expand 3D glasses based on the great reviews. The 3D is horrible. With the Epson glasses yours now looks correct?? Give the 3DTV Corp Lightest RF/Bluetooth Rechargeable 3D Glasses for 3D Epson projectors a try. I recently posted my review on Amazon comparing them to the ValueView...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## vvume

Juboy said:


> ...All of that said, 1080p SDR can also look so good on this PJ (especially when using the Shield's AI enhancement) that the jump between the two is nowhere near as marked as one might expect.


Same here. I barely notice a difference between SDR and HDR versions of the same movie using an Apple TV 4K. There is definitely a color shift and so you need different settings stored in memory if you are using something like 4K HDR 30fps vs. 4K SDR 60fps on the Apple TV 4k output video setting, but you can get them to look 95% the same. Just a touch deeper colors on the HDR mode for movies with rich colors (Avatar, Valerian, etc.)


----------



## sleepingatsea

What's everyone's thoughts on 3D? I just bought Spiderman Far From Home 3D and the reviews and forum discussion on bluray.com are all saying it's very good with mild-strinf 3D and up there with the best Marvel.
Well we watched this last night and honestly I was really underwhelmed. Whilst there was a little depth it was nothing compared to say Thor Ragnarok. 

Anyone else watched this disc? Been a while since I watched a 3D'er but remember them looking a lot better. 



Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

I have over 450 3Ders and my settings make them look great. Of course some are better then others. If you would like I'll send you my settings.

John


----------



## sleepingatsea

inspector said:


> I have over 450 3Ders and my settings make them look great. Of course some are better then others. If you would like I'll send you my settings.
> 
> John


That would be great, thanks!

I recently got lucky and found someone selling 2 brand new pairs of Epson glasses for $20 so this was testing those out.

Always also wondered if you are meant to be messing with the 3D depth settings 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

Brettmckinney said:


> That would be great, thanks!
> 
> I recently got lucky and found someone selling 2 brand new pairs of Epson glasses for $20 so this was testing those out.
> 
> Always also wondered if you are meant to be messing with the 3D depth settings
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Definitely mess with the 3D depth setting. I push it as high as I can until some ghosting starts then back it off one. I also use 3D Dynamic to get as many lumens as I can since the glasses reduce brightness.


----------



## sleepingatsea

WynsWrld98 said:


> Definitely mess with the 3D depth setting. I push it as high as I can until some ghosting starts then back it off one. I also use 3D Dynamic to get as many lumens as I can since the glasses reduce brightness.


Will give that a go! I remember reading some comments about using the 3D menu screen and changing it which ever way reduces ghosting on the text but that would mean doing if for each disc. Didn't really play with it much. 

I'm currently using dynamic too which I think were from the Sound & Vision settings.

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Brettmckinney said:


> Will give that a go! I remember reading some comments about using the 3D menu screen and changing it which ever way reduces ghosting on the text but that would mean doing if for each disc. Didn't really play with it much.
> 
> I'm currently using dynamic too which I think were from the Sound & Vision settings.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


PM sent.


----------



## Juboy

vvume said:


> Same here. I barely notice a difference between SDR and HDR versions of the same movie using an Apple TV 4K.


Coincidentally, we watched 'Honest Thief' in SDR last night and there were certain night-time scenes where it genuinely looked like HDR.


----------



## mase1981

Hey Guys, 
I have the 6040ub from the first week it was for sell in the US and so far still loving it. (on my spare bulb now ). 
I have the hdfury linker and actually wrote one of the original posts about it to get HDR with the Xbox and the likes:








Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread


I appreciate info, I just don't know how that helps me. Not that I'm looking for help - but how does a Start Sequence help? If I start the "Watch a Movie" activity, I want the directional buttons to operate my UHD player. It's only when I need to "step out" of the activity that I need the...




www.avsforum.com





I was wondering, if we can now integrate and support Dolby vision. I have read a few posts on this thread that some were able to achieve it but I am still unsure as to how. Do I need the hdfury vertex? Do I need both the vertex and thd linker? Do I need to replace the linker? Anyone that was able to fully try hdr10 + Dolby vision to work that can comment with a good link for a guide, instructions, settings? 
TIA


----------



## danny945

New 6040 owner her and I am currently setting it up. Right now for movies, Netflix, Disney +, and YouTube the picture is amazing. 
When I try to watch Hulu live football games the picture is not clear at all. Can’t anyone help with this?


----------



## by96

mase1981 said:


> Hey Guys,
> I have the 6040ub from the first week it was for sell in the US and so far still loving it. (on my spare bulb now ).
> I have the hdfury linker and actually wrote one of the original posts about it to get HDR with the Xbox and the likes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread
> 
> 
> I appreciate info, I just don't know how that helps me. Not that I'm looking for help - but how does a Start Sequence help? If I start the "Watch a Movie" activity, I want the directional buttons to operate my UHD player. It's only when I need to "step out" of the activity that I need the...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering, if we can now integrate and support Dolby vision. I have read a few posts on this thread that some were able to achieve it but I am still unsure as to how. Do I need the hdfury vertex? Do I need both the vertex and thd linker? Do I need to replace the linker? Anyone that was able to fully try hdr10 + Dolby vision to work that can comment with a good link for a guide, instructions, settings?
> TIA


Have you seen this thread?









Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


...In my testing I found that most titles looked better when forced LLDV is enabled through the Oppo, but not all (a few titles looked worse). Thank you for that excellent answer. HDR10 content is static, I try to think how running it through Dolby's API would be beneficial. HDR10 has its...




www.avsforum.com





The recommended devices are the newest generation, such as the Vertex2. I was able to do with my Intregal2, but without automatic switching on the PJ, prior to upgrading to the Vertex2. (See below about Linker.)


----------



## Dominic Chan

It can be done with the Linker, if you manually compose or load the appropriate EDID.


----------



## roland6465

danny945 said:


> New 6040 owner her and I am currently setting it up. Right now for movies, Netflix, Disney +, and YouTube the picture is amazing.
> When I try to watch Hulu live football games the picture is not clear at all. Can’t anyone help with this?


Unfortunately from my experience, Hulu is one of the more bit-starved providers. I had it for a couple of months and gave up. Garbage in--->garbage out, and when you blow it up to 90+ inches, you can really see the limitation.


----------



## danny945

Noted. I was running Hulu from my Xbox one s and had subpar live performance. Ended up switching it to a cheap roku and the picture was better in every way. I like watching sports on tv. So what would be a good option for me. Apple 4k tv? Roku ultra?


----------



## mase1981

Dominic Chan said:


> It can be done with the Linker, if you manually compose or load the appropriate EDID.


Thank you, do you have a reference link or something for the appropriate EDID?


----------



## Dominic Chan

mase1981 said:


> Thank you, do you have a reference link or something for the appropriate EDID?


Look for the BT.2020 EDID posted by markswift2003


----------



## Superman2

Is it normal that the SAVE Memory picture settings won’t save the Signal settings made?? I just noticed mine isn’t switching those settings between my saves. It just keeps to whatever the last setting was set to. ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sleepingatsea

Superman2 said:


> Is it normal that the SAVE Memory picture settings won’t save the Signal settings made?? I just noticed mine isn’t switching those settings between my saves. It just keeps to whatever the last setting was set to. ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes unfortunately, drives me mad!

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## Superman2

Brettmckinney said:


> Yes unfortunately, drives me mad!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Crap.
thanks for the reply.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Grayson73

mase1981 said:


> Thank you, do you have a reference link or something for the appropriate EDID?


HDFURY Linker has a preset for the 5040UB, preset #3.

3. Set 4k30/4k60 presets for a 4K30 deepcolor PJ at 300MHz (e.g Wired UB/TW Epson) [4k30 8/10/12 -> 4k30 422 12 300, 4k60 600MHz -> 4k60 420 300MHz]


----------



## inspector

Superman2 said:


> Is it normal that the SAVE Memory picture settings won’t save the Signal settings made?? I just noticed mine isn’t switching those settings between my saves. It just keeps to whatever the last setting was set to. ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You have to go into SETTINGS and save it to the MOVIE SETTING you want to save it to.


----------



## mase1981

Grayson73 said:


> HDFURY Linker has a preset for the 5040UB, preset #3.
> 
> 3. Set 4k30/4k60 presets for a 4K30 deepcolor PJ at 300MHz (e.g Wired UB/TW Epson) [4k30 8/10/12 -> 4k30 422 12 300, 4k60 600MHz -> 4k60 420 300MHz]


Thank you, yeah - i have the linker and its working. however my question was specific to Dolby Vision Support.


----------



## BradP

I've got a problem that hours of research can't resolve with this projector, hoping someone here might have experienced same and has a solution.

I watch videos on my 5040UB mostly through two devices - A Nvidia Shield TV and an Xbox One. Both run through the same HDMI cable out from a Denon AVR and the info reports the same refresh rate, resolution, etc, when the videos are playing on both devices.

However, playback from the Shield is smooth as butter. Playback from the Xbox One results in "judder" (or probably dropped frames) is the best way I can describe it, especially in scenes where the camera pans. I am very sensitive to this and in the old days, this used to indicate a refresh rate problem. However, the Xboxreports refresh rate just fine at 23.978 or whatever that number is, just like it does on the shield. 

This happens using the Plex app on the Xbox or the native Xbox Media Player, so this has to be hardware settings related. I am just not quite sure if I am missing something simple that is causing this Xbox One to have such juddery awful playback during motion and especially camera pans.

Has anyone else who tried to run video from an Xbox one using Plex (or any video player) to the 5040UB experienced this, or have a workaround? Other than just using the Shield (which I do, but xbox has been in use for some watch parties so we can use Skype or Xbox live chat as we play the movies together).

Much love.


----------



## Grayson73

I used Adam's HDR settings with Disney+ and the whites are blown out and sometimes even pink. Does anyone have good HDR settings for movies and TV?

@WynsWrld98 and @Juboy, what HDR settings are you using?


----------



## rfb6435

kklarson said:


> I asked HDFury about downconverting and they replied "It is not possible to convert 60hz to 30hz at this time."
> 
> and I still had in my mind Epson's specs that showed it could not do HDR in any 60Hz mode. So you guys have confirmed Viche's post (Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread) that the projector will accept 4K 60Hz 8-bit 4:2:0? I appreciate that you've shared this information as it sounds like the only option to get Netflix in 4K and HDR on this projector.


This is an old portion of the thread but I have been working on it with my setup and have something that should be of interest....

I now have 4kHDR with atmos streaming working on my 5040ub with the nvidia shield. It has been covered that the shield is the best match for the 5040ub and can send 24p HDR better than other boxes.

The problem is that the atmos audio stream is only on the 4k HDR video. Much like how many blurays don't support atmos on the non HDR disc the same is true of streaming.

It won't work unless the firestick/roku/etc recognize it as an HDR capable display and they don't understand 4k24 HDR... I have a couple of firesticks and a roku ultra and didn't have luck getting them to work with HDR10 on the 5040ub.

I was able to get atmos to work with my hdfury linker set to accept 4k 4:4:4 60 HDR which downscales it to 4k 60 8bit SDR. This works on both the firestick and roku ultra but it really isn't a great solution because color depth is lost and you need the linker. The linker is expensive, kind of a pain to get setup to work properly and also kind of annoying when it switches resolution and there is a re-sync delay.

With the shield It can be done without the linker. I wasn't sure it would work for atmos from what I had read but the latest nvidia shield can indeed do it!

I bought an nvidia shield pro and set the monitor resolution to 4k 23.97... with 4:2:2 12 bit. I then went into the supported audio formats and selected all of them (for some reason auto detect doesn't work but selecting all formats manually works). It works! the nvidia shield must internally scale things. It actually gives me the 24hz HDR with 4:2:2 which is the top format for the 5040ub and allows it to use the stream with atmos! I tried it and it works for disney+, netflix, and prime streaming. It probably wastes a lot of internet bandwidth given that we are throwing away a lot of the signal but it works great.

The only downside is that my shield pro seems to have a defective fan which is loud so I will have to exchange it. The normal 2020 shield tube should also work the same way, it just doesn't have as much USB support and is in the tube rather than the traditional box.

So I think this is the best solution for 4k atmos streaming on the 5040ub!

Now if the atmos from disney+, etc actually used my wide speakers effectively I would be happy (they don't seem to get much content).

-Rich


----------



## aoaaron

ken8 said:


> Just want to bounce something off you guys, I'm downunder and got an 8300/5040ub the other day and the 3D is great as far as ghosting and crosstalk is concerned but the damn thing has faint diagonal lines running through it in 3D mode only. 2D is fine and looks great. It's not the glasses because you can see them when you're not wearing them. Have tried 4k cables, swapping players and plugging everything into the same power pack but it's doing my head in. Have rung Epson and lodged a ticket but now it's Easter not expecting to hear back from them for a while
> 
> Thanks and have a great Easter break everyone


Hi, I have this too.. .did it get fixed?


----------



## aoaaron

seplant said:


> Yes! I sometimes see exactly the same thing with my 6040! It seems to come and go, however. I am using a Panasonic UB900 player, and I am using a wired HDMI connection, as the 6040 does not do wireless.
> 
> I'll be getting a replacement projector from Epson next week due to my HDMI 1 input no longer working, so I'll watch for this pattern on the new projector as well.


was this on ur replacement?


----------



## Grayson73

Does anyone watch movies/TV shows in HDR? If so, can you share your settings?


----------



## AFMan916

Interested in understanding which of the HDFury products (Linker or Vertex mainly) would work best, irrespective of cost, for forcing a PS4 Pro/Xbox One S and eventually PS5/Xbox Series X to output 4K HDR. I can't seem to find a ton of info via Googling (damn you Google for _ever _removing the "Discussions" button) and it doesn't appear as though I can search individual threads for terms here on AVS?

Anyway, just wondering if the Vertex would be worth the additional cost in this case?


----------



## jesped2

My 6040ub started to make an annoying noise when "4K Enhancement" is activated. 😩
It's like a constant buzz noise, and sometimes it stops for just like a half of a second and then continues.

Any ideas?


----------



## john hunter

Grayson73 said:


> Does anyone watch movies/TV shows in HDR? If so, can you share your settings?


If you have the Panasonic players, my advice is to tone map there and just use the default settings in the PJ.
I use Cinema and Auto Bright in the Signal menu.
This has given me by far the best results after trying tons of recommended settings.


----------



## inspector

I have to disagree with you. My settings, the ones I've sent you, IMO, are the best I've tried for the last almost 4 years...and I've tried them all.


----------



## DocBeeps

inspector said:


> I have to disagree with you. My settings, the ones I've sent you, IMO, are the best I've tried for the last almost 4 years...and I've tried them all.


Can you share your settings please?


----------



## DocBeeps

b_scott said:


> it pops up on the screen "HDR" when an HDR signal is received.
> 
> But I've found that the Harpervision settings just take the HDR signal and blows out the color so it corrects it to basically look like an SDR signal. Which isn't really HDR, it's just correcting what is being sent to level it out so you don't have to switch the Signal. Which sucks.
> 
> I wish the projector would just swap to an HDR setting when the signal changes via "Auto". Otherwise what is Auto even for?


Sorry to resurrect an old comment, but I'm genuinely curious when you've seen the HDR pop up. I always assumed this occurred during the hdmi handshake when the screen goes blank. I've never seen the pop up occur. My setup is 5040ub, Denon x2300w and Shield Pro.


----------



## inspector

DocBeeps said:


> Can you share your settings please?


PM sent.


----------



## sleepingatsea

rfb6435 said:


> This is an old portion of the thread but I have been working on it with my setup and have something that should be of interest....
> 
> I now have 4kHDR with atmos streaming working on my 5040ub with the nvidia shield. It has been covered that the shield is the best match for the 5040ub and can send 24p HDR better than other boxes.
> 
> The problem is that the atmos audio stream is only on the 4k HDR video. Much like how many blurays don't support atmos on the non HDR disc the same is true of streaming.
> 
> It won't work unless the firestick/roku/etc recognize it as an HDR capable display and they don't understand 4k24 HDR... I have a couple of firesticks and a roku ultra and didn't have luck getting them to work with HDR10 on the 5040ub.
> 
> I was able to get atmos to work with my hdfury linker set to accept 4k 4:4:4 60 HDR which downscales it to 4k 60 8bit SDR. This works on both the firestick and roku ultra but it really isn't a great solution because color depth is lost and you need the linker. The linker is expensive, kind of a pain to get setup to work properly and also kind of annoying when it switches resolution and there is a re-sync delay.
> 
> With the shield It can be done without the linker. I wasn't sure it would work for atmos from what I had read but the latest nvidia shield can indeed do it!
> 
> I bought an nvidia shield pro and set the monitor resolution to 4k 23.97... with 4:2:2 12 bit. I then went into the supported audio formats and selected all of them (for some reason auto detect doesn't work but selecting all formats manually works). It works! the nvidia shield must internally scale things. It actually gives me the 24hz HDR with 4:2:2 which is the top format for the 5040ub and allows it to use the stream with atmos! I tried it and it works for disney+, netflix, and prime streaming. It probably wastes a lot of internet bandwidth given that we are throwing away a lot of the signal but it works great.
> 
> The only downside is that my shield pro seems to have a defective fan which is loud so I will have to exchange it. The normal 2020 shield tube should also work the same way, it just doesn't have as much USB support and is in the tube rather than the traditional box.
> 
> So I think this is the best solution for 4k atmos streaming on the 5040ub!
> 
> Now if the atmos from disney+, etc actually used my wide speakers effectively I would be happy (they don't seem to get much content).
> 
> -Rich


The Shield Pro is the best purchase I made for my 5040UB!

I didn't have to play with any manual settings but I select 4k 24 HDR and then when I load Netflix etc I select 'match frame rate' on the shield and this gives 24p/Atmos etc.



Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## ANDYK48

inspector said:


> PM sent.


Hello Inspector,
If you do not mind sharing your settings with me as well, I would be much obliged 
Thanks


----------



## inspector

ANDYK48 said:


> Hello Inspector,
> If you do not mind sharing your settings with me as well, I would be much obliged
> Thanks


PM sent.


----------



## Grayson73

john hunter said:


> If you have the Panasonic players, my advice is to tone map there and just use the default settings in the PJ.
> I use Cinema and Auto Bright in the Signal menu.
> This has given me by far the best results after trying tons of recommended settings.


I do not have the Panasonic players. I'm using a Roku Ultra.


----------



## b_scott

DocBeeps said:


> Sorry to resurrect an old comment, but I'm genuinely curious when you've seen the HDR pop up. I always assumed this occurred during the hdmi handshake when the screen goes blank. I've never seen the pop up occur. My setup is 5040ub, Denon x2300w and Shield Pro.


for me it's right after the handshake. Using Plex for sure on my Shield tube 2019, and my Panasonic 820. It says HDR10 in a grey box lower right.


----------



## avnoob2021

Folks, new to the thread. I recently got a refurb 5040UB and currently projecting on to a wall for testing. 
AVR - Yamaha TSR 700
Bluray Player - Panasonic UB420
Roku 4K stick
Monoprice HDMI High Speed Active Cable 30 Ft

I'm a noob, so apologize if this has been discussed (Can't find a 'search in this thread' option, only across entire forum). I'm trying to get 4K HDR @ 60 Hz. I have manually set the Bluray & Roku stick output to 4K at 60 Hz but all I get is SDR. I'm suspecting its the HDMI cable, since it says 4K @ 60 Hz but not 4K HDR @ 60 Hz. 

This is from Bluray Player playing a 4K animated movie - Spiderman.









This is from Roku 4K stick, playing a movie from Amazon.









Am I missing any obvious setting? I also had to manually select BT.2020 as suggested in this thread elsewhere to get colors even though I set them in my Bluray Player. 

Thanks for your help.


----------



## DocBeeps

b_scott said:


> for me it's right after the handshake. Using Plex for sure on my Shield tube 2019, and my Panasonic 820. It says HDR10 in a grey box lower right.


Would you be able to share a picture of what it looks like? I'm wondering which device is generating the notification.


----------



## DocBeeps

delete


----------



## DocBeeps

avnoob2021 said:


> Folks, new to the thread. I recently got a refurb 5040UB and currently projecting on to a wall for testing.
> AVR - Yamaha TSR 700
> Bluray Player - Panasonic UB420
> Roku 4K stick
> Monoprice HDMI High Speed Active Cable 30 Ft
> 
> I'm a noob, so apologize if this has been discussed (Can't find a 'search in this thread' option, only across entire forum). I'm trying to get 4K HDR @ 60 Hz. I have manually set the Bluray & Roku stick output to 4K at 60 Hz but all I get is SDR. I'm suspecting its the HDMI cable, since it says 4K @ 60 Hz but not 4K HDR @ 60 Hz.
> 
> This is from Bluray Player playing a 4K animated movie - Spiderman.
> View attachment 3077637
> 
> 
> This is from Roku 4K stick, playing a movie from Amazon.
> View attachment 3077638
> 
> 
> Am I missing any obvious setting? I also had to manually select BT.2020 as suggested in this thread elsewhere to get colors even though I set them in my Bluray Player.
> 
> Thanks for your help.


5040ub only supports HDR at 24/30 fps. There's workarounds discussed throughout this thread, but unless you're gaming, the cost isn't justified to me. You'll need to see if you can change the Roku and Bluray player displays to match the supported frame rates. I don't own either so can't comment on how to.


----------



## avnoob2021

DocBeeps said:


> 5040ub only supports HDR at 24/30 fps. There's workarounds discussed throughout this thread, but unless you're gaming, the cost isn't justified to me. You'll need to see if you can change the Roku and Bluray player displays to match the supported frame rates. I don't own either so can't comment on how to.


I see. I guess I misunderstood this spec from the manual. Thank you.


----------



## b_scott

DocBeeps said:


> Would you be able to share a picture of what it looks like? I'm wondering which device is generating the notification.


It’s definitely the projector.


----------



## b_scott

avnoob2021 said:


> I see. I guess I misunderstood this spec from the manual. Thank you.
> 
> View attachment 3077677


you can display 4K/60 videos. But not 4K HDR 60 since video Standard for hdr is 10 bit and that’s too much bandwidth for the input. No movies are 4k60 anyway so it’s a bit moot. You could find some YouTube videos.

You can do 4K hdr8 60 but almost nothing outputs that except some games - however you may need something that converts from 10 to 8.


----------



## jbs102

inspector said:


> PM sent.


Hi Inspector... mind sharing with me too? Still trying to dial in my settings.


----------



## inspector

jbs102 said:


> Hi Inspector... mind sharing with me too? Still trying to dial in my settings.


PM just sent


----------



## KevBend1

inspector said:


> PM just sent


Howdy Inspector, another request for the settings, please.


----------



## inspector

KevBend1 said:


> Howdy Inspector, another request for the settings, please.


PM just sent. Enjoy


----------



## aoaaron

hey guys, has anyone noticed the previously discussed wavy diagonal lines in 3D mode on block colours? namely the colour blue which can sometimes crop up in content?

not a deal breaker and i suspect its used to produce the stereoscopic effect but just wondering.


----------



## DocBeeps

b_scott said:


> It’s definitely the projector.


Thanks for taking the time to share this.


----------



## WynsWrld98

deleted


----------



## aoaaron

these are the lines u can see in 3D mode... if u look closely..










the diagonal ones... only come up with some colours. is this just part of the stereoscopic filter?


----------



## ericchops

I’m trying to get 3D to work on my 5040 with no luck.
I have the Sony BR250 glasses. Are these glasses compatible to run 3D on this projector? Anything specific I need to do to set it up?









Sony TDG-BR250/B Rechargeable 3D Adult Glasses, Black : Amazon.ca: Electronics


Sony TDG-BR250/B Rechargeable 3D Adult Glasses, Black : Amazon.ca: Electronics



www.amazon.ca


----------



## inspector

Active shutter glasses (compatible with the Epson) and a 3D blu-ray player.


----------



## inspector

...and try these 3D settings.

John


BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC

_IMAGE_

51
49
50
60
5 5 5
5 5
46,48,46,48,59,49
NORMAL
PRESET 3
4
1
5 5
5 5
GAMMA 1
50,58,48
57,51,46
61,50,44
46,50,41
52,49,66
52,23,69
OFF
-12
HIGH
OFF

_SIGNAL_

3D SETUP

AUTO
0
THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
MEDIUM
ON

AUTO
FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast running, using FAST clears it up)


----------



## inspector

aoaaron said:


> these are the lines u can see in 3D mode... if u look closely..
> View attachment 3078391
> 
> 
> 
> the diagonal ones... only come up with some colours. is this just part of the stereoscopic filter?


 What's the movie?


----------



## inspector

I tried 3 movies and didn't see the diagonal lines like you show.


----------



## b_scott

inspector said:


> Active shutter glasses (compatible with the Epson) and a 3D blu-ray player.


you can do 3D sbs with digital files in Plex. Has to be 1080p though.


----------



## Natrix1973

b_scott said:


> you can do 3D sbs with digital files in Plex. Has to be 1080p though.


I didn't know you could play 3D rips with Plex. Do you have to name the file a certain way for Plex to recognize them to play in 3D? My 3D rips all play back in 2D in Plex


.


----------



## aoaaron

inspector said:


> I tried 3 movies and didn't see the diagonal lines like you show.



hmm... jungle book as it. I'll look for a film with a time stamp. Which 3D films do you own? can find it in pretty much any film.


----------



## inspector

You know, I own 500 3Ders, and I tried 3...you still haven't said what the title you saw this on.


----------



## b_scott

Natrix1973 said:


> I didn't know you could play 3D rips with Plex. Do you have to name the file a certain way for Plex to recognize them to play in 3D? My 3D rips all play back in 2D in Plex
> 
> 
> .


Yup. I think naming does something but it’s very projector being in 3D mode that converts it I think.



https://forums.plex.tv/t/proper-3d-movie-naming/200249/3



can’t do 3D mode in 4K it’ll be greyed out.


----------



## sleepingatsea

I know this isn't a 5040 topic but keen for your input. I just bought 12x black acoustic panel squares and I was thinking of placing these on the roof (white) in front of the screen in the hope it will give some better black level. So much glow at the moment! The wife isn't keen on painting, but I can throw some 3m strips on them and test etc.

What do you think? Would it make much of a percieved difference? They are 12x12 so will come about 2feet out at this stage. Could get anotjer 6 though if worthwhile. 
If it doesn't do much for it then I'll put them on the wall to the sides behind my speakers and use to catch reflections etc.

God I wish I could just have a black room! 

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

aoaaron said:


> hmm... jungle book as it. I'll look for a film with a time stamp. Which 3D films do you own? can find it in pretty much any film.


It might be your Epson. I just put in another 2 discs, paused them and no diagonal lines like you show.


----------



## aoaaron

inspector said:


> It might be your Epson. I just put in another 2 discs, paused them and no diagonal lines like you show.



Cheers mate.. can u tell me which discs u have and I'll put in the same disc to cross-reference. 

I can give Epson a shout and ask them.


----------



## inspector

Wrong guy to ask. I'm also trying to find out what movie he is getting diagonal lines with.


----------



## Goblue4016

I noticed that epson has some refurbished 5040ub back in stock for $1,499. I was planning on getting the 3700 but now I’m not sure because the 5040ub is so highly rated here picture quality wise. If I plan on using a projector for an everyday tv replacement in a family room watching tv and sports during the day and movies at night will I notice a huge difference between the 2 projectors to justify spending twice as much for the 5040ub?


----------



## aoaaron

inspector said:


> Wrong guy to ask. I'm also trying to find out what movie he is getting diagonal lines with.



I know. I'm asking which film 3D films you have so we can cross-reference a problematic scene (I will identify the problematic scene).
I will get my Epson up (where I can see some diagonal lines in 3D) and find a scene where there are diagonal lines and take a photo.
Then you can get the same scene up and take a photo of your screen where it is line-free.

Then at leas twe know its a sample variation issue.


----------



## rfb6435

Brettmckinney said:


> The Shield Pro is the best purchase I made for my 5040UB!
> 
> I didn't have to play with any manual settings but I select 4k 24 HDR and then when I load Netflix etc I select 'match frame rate' on the shield and this gives 24p/Atmos etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


Best for me too, it is the only streaming box that i can get atmos on for many shows without using the linker.

Note that it can also give atmos in 1080p 60Hz 12 bit req 2020 HDR. Honestly it looks pretty good that way too on my 106" screen I haven't noticed any judder with the 4k 12bit 23.9..Hz but if i do at some point there are options to still get HDR atmos by dropping the resolution to run the higher frame rate.


----------



## b_scott

Brettmckinney said:


> I know this isn't a 5040 topic but keen for your input. I just bought 12x black acoustic panel squares and I was thinking of placing these on the roof (white) in front of the screen in the hope it will give some better black level. So much glow at the moment! The wife isn't keen on painting, but I can throw some 3m strips on them and test etc.
> 
> What do you think? Would it make much of a percieved difference? They are 12x12 so will come about 2feet out at this stage. Could get anotjer 6 though if worthwhile.
> If it doesn't do much for it then I'll put them on the wall to the sides behind my speakers and use to catch reflections etc.
> 
> God I wish I could just have a black room!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


it will definitely help. However the best option is to purchase triple black velvet cloth from syfabrics and tack it to the ceiling.


----------



## inspector

aoaaron said:


> I know. I'm asking which film 3D films you have so we can cross-reference a problematic scene (I will identify the problematic scene).
> I will get my Epson up (where I can see some diagonal lines in 3D) and find a scene where there are diagonal lines and take a photo.
> Then you can get the same scene up and take a photo of your screen where it is line-free.
> 
> Then at leas twe know its a sample variation issue.



Just watched the real 3D of FRIDAY THE 13 PART III 3D and paused it at 16:58. A girl steps out of a blue van. No diagonal lines visible.


----------



## sleepingatsea

b_scott said:


> it will definitely help. However the best option is to purchase triple black velvet cloth from syfabrics and tack it to the ceiling.


Thanks! Have had a bit of a look at this. Looks like the seller doesn't ship to Australia.
I did a search and found this on eBay - the description is the same...same thing you think?









Velvet Black Plush Triple Fabric Drapery clothing soft solid 45" wide per yard | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Velvet Black Plush Triple Fabric Drapery clothing soft solid 45" wide per yard at the best online prices at eBay!



www.ebay.com.au





Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

Brettmckinney said:


> Thanks! Have had a bit of a look at this. Looks like the seller doesn't ship to Australia.
> I did a search and found this on eBay - the description is the same...same thing you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Velvet Black Plush Triple Fabric Drapery clothing soft solid 45" wide per yard | eBay
> 
> 
> Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Velvet Black Plush Triple Fabric Drapery clothing soft solid 45" wide per yard at the best online prices at eBay!
> 
> 
> 
> www.ebay.com.au
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


I'm not certain - plush isn't what you want, I think, since it is a bit shiny. You want as flat as possible. Maybe buy the smallest amount you can and test it out?


----------



## Alex solomon

Long shot maybe but thought I ask. Is there a way to save my settings from my Epson projector and move it to a new unit?


----------



## avnoob2021

Folks, need help with fixing the image not being a perfect rectangle. This is my 1st PJ and is a refurb 5040UB. 
It has been ceiling mounted and is horizontally level as measured with a leveler. The screen is also horizontally level as measured. Can this be fixed by tilting it? I tried tilting but can't get it locked in that position, so need to find the corresponding screws to tighten further if that's the case. 

This image shows the problem where the top white line is matching the top frame but other sides are not. This image is with 0 Keystone setting.









After setting the Keystone to -8 (negative 8), I see acceptable right, left vertical lines (though not perfect) but the bottom left side is still not aligned.









Looking at various old threads (some are from '04, '06) related to other projectors, it seems to be something not being placed at the correct spot, not leveled or not tilted are the reason for this. I hope that is the case with mine and hoping to fix it. Since this is a refurb unit, I being paranoid if this was the original problem that resulted in unit going back to Epson .

The PJ is about 5 " from the ceiling and I have used the lens shift to bring down the image to the screen. Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## mtviewuser

If u have a laser distance meter, check both sides. It looks like the right is closer than left. Even if you are looking at 1-2 degree, at 16 feet throw it will look like a trapezoid. Check the distance from the left side of the projector to the screen and do the same to the right side. Projector face and screen face has to be perfectly parallel.


----------



## avnoob2021

mtviewuser said:


> If u have a laser distance meter, check both sides. It looks like the right is closer than left. Even if you are looking at 1-2 degree, at 16 feet throw it will look like a trapezoid. Check the distance from the left side of the projector to the screen and do the same to the right side. Projector face and screen face has to be perfectly parallel.


Thanks for your suggestion, I don't have a laser meter but will check what I can do. Just to clarify, you are referring to left/right side of the projector being 1 or 2 inches twisted so that its closer to the screen or the projector being 1 or 2 degrees tilted on its side? I have checked the projector with a leveler and its horizontally aligned.


----------



## mtviewuser

avnoob2021 said:


> Thanks for your suggestion, I don't have a laser meter but will check what I can do. Just to clarify, you are referring to left/right side of the projector being 1 or 2 inches twisted so that its closer to the screen or the projector being 1 or 2 degrees tilted on its side? I have checked the projector with a leveler and its horizontally aligned.


The twist can be very little. Even off by a fraction of inch, long throw will make the image look like a trapezoid. In many houses, walls may not be aligned, you may have to rotate the projector (remount if your mount can't be twisted). 

Check all alignments, laser will come very handy. 1) Projector left -> screen top left 2) projector left -> screen bottom left 3) projector right -> screen top right 4) projector right -> screen bottom right. 

The screen and projector needs to be aligned, to get 100% focus and proper rectangle.


----------



## avtoronto

avnoob2021 said:


> Thanks for your suggestion, I don't have a laser meter but will check what I can do. Just to clarify, you are referring to left/right side of the projector being 1 or 2 inches twisted so that its closer to the screen or the projector being 1 or 2 degrees tilted on its side? I have checked the projector with a leveler and its horizontally aligned.


Your mount should have adjustments to independently adjust roll, pitch and yaw. These will eliminate the trapezoid shape of the image. If your mount does not have these adjustments, I suggest you pick one up. They are not expensive. Keystone is to be avoided.


----------



## Tibor Makai

You shouldn't use keystone. Keystone worsens the image quality as well. Imho, if you have to correct trapezoidal image, you are not square, or not parallel plane between the lens and screen.
Try the level on the ceiling as well.


----------



## Odysea

Has anyone purchased a replacement bulb from BulbAmerica? They have a listing on Walmart for the ELPELP89, stating it's the genuine Epson V13H010L89. I don't need to replace my bulb any time soon, but I'm always looking for a good deal on a new lamp. If I do purchase it, what's the best way to make sure it IS a genuine lamp? I'm sure Walmart would support a return if it's a false listing.


----------



## aoaaron

I am buying a 6040 wireless whilst I send my current 6040 for repair; then will give 6040 to the parents.

For LESS than the price of one 6050, I got 2x 6040s, one is a wireless model; still with the Epson warranty and I've managed to get 4 bulbs. Love Epson for the value they provide and service.


----------



## Shahzeb719

Hello,

I’m a new 6040UB owner. I’m currently setting up the projector now and I ended up purchasing the WireslessHD transmitter unit separately off of eBay. Can anyone help me figure out how I can link the WirelessHD to the projector? I know I purchased it separately thinking it can work out of the box


----------



## DocBeeps

Shahzeb719 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I’m a new 6040UB owner. I’m currently setting up the projector now and I ended up purchasing the WireslessHD transmitter unit separately off of eBay. Can anyone help me figure out how I can link the WirelessHD to the projector? I know I purchased it separately thinking it can work out of the box


Try to reset wireless transmitter. 






faq-0000bbd-plhc5040ube_only | SPT_V11H714020 | Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UBe | Cinema Series | Projectors | Support | Epson US







epson.com


----------



## aoaaron

Shahzeb719 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I’m a new 6040UB owner. I’m currently setting up the projector now and I ended up purchasing the WireslessHD transmitter unit separately off of eBay. Can anyone help me figure out how I can link the WirelessHD to the projector? I know I purchased it separately thinking it can work out of the box


as far as i know it doesnt work. u need the wireless epson as it has a wireless feature in the projector.


----------



## mrbeezly

inspector said:


> I have to disagree with you. My settings, the ones I've sent you, IMO, are the best I've tried for the last almost 4 years...and I've tried them all.


could you send me your settings too?Yhabks in advance


----------



## inspector

mrbeezly said:


> could you send me your settings too?Yhabks in advance


PM sent. Enjoy.


----------



## Juboy

Shahzeb719 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I’m a new 6040UB owner. I’m currently setting up the projector now and I ended up purchasing the WireslessHD transmitter unit separately off of eBay. Can anyone help me figure out how I can link the WirelessHD to the projector? I know I purchased it separately thinking it can work out of the box


Make sure the projector is turned on and then you need to locate the recessed button on the underside of the WirelessHD box and press it for a second or two - you'll need a thin screwdriver or similar. The box will then 'pair' with the projector and you're good to go.


----------



## DocBeeps

aoaaron said:


> as far as i know it doesnt work. u need the wireless epson as it has a wireless feature in the projector.


I completely overlooked this, good call. Shazeb, unless your model has a UBe at the end, it's not wireless.


----------



## DocBeeps

b_scott said:


> It’s definitely the projector.





b_scott said:


> It’s definitely the projector.


I still haven't figured out why I'm not getting that notification. Connected Shield TV Pro 2019 directly to 5040UBe using 50 ft fiber optic HDMI. Plex server on Shield Pro, with media on a few external drives connected directly to shield via USB 3.0. The handshake appears to be quicker but still no HDR notification. I've confirmed in Projector Info that I'm getting 4k, HDR, BT.2020. Now I'm not sure if that alone is confirmation I'm actually getting HDR. Is there a setting for this or something I'm completely overlooking?


----------



## mtviewuser

DocBeeps said:


> I still haven't figured out why I'm not getting that notification. Connected Shield TV Pro 2019 directly to 5040UBe using 50 ft fiber optic HDMI. Plex server on Shield Pro, with media on a few external drives connected directly to shield via USB 3.0. The handshake appears to be quicker but still no HDR notification. I've confirmed in Projector Info that I'm getting 4k, HDR, BT.2020. Now I'm not sure if that alone is confirmation I'm actually getting HDR. Is there a setting for this or something I'm completely overlooking?


5040 has old 10Gbps HDMI. You can't get [email protected] HDR. It is limited to 24fps. If you have a blu-ray player that can output 24 fps, it will be better test.


----------



## DocBeeps

mtviewuser said:


> 5040 has old 10Gbps HDMI. You can't get [email protected] HDR. It is limited to 24fps. If you have a blu-ray player that can output 24 fps, it will be better test.


Right, I should have included that the Shield is set to 4k/23.94hz. b_scott's demonstration is from Plex on the Tube Shield.


----------



## deano86

DocBeeps said:


> I still haven't figured out why I'm not getting that notification. Connected Shield TV Pro 2019 directly to 5040UBe using 50 ft fiber optic HDMI. Plex server on Shield Pro, with media on a few external drives connected directly to shield via USB 3.0. The handshake appears to be quicker but still no HDR notification. I've confirmed in Projector Info that I'm getting 4k, HDR, BT.2020. Now I'm not sure if that alone is confirmation I'm actually getting HDR. Is there a setting for this or something I'm completely overlooking?


What notification are you exactly looking for? When you select Projector Info on the Epson, it will show you the incoming signal parameters... if it says 4K, HDR and the BT.2020 color space, then that's what it's receiving. If it's only SDR and BT.709 then that is what it will show in the info page.. Keep in mind, that some helpful display notifications that could be coming from your source components may not be visible because they will disappear before the Epson will have a chance to finish its resync and its switching to the HDR colorspace before it begins showing actual images.


----------



## DocBeeps

deano86 said:


> What notification are you exactly looking for? When you select Projector Info on the Epson, it will show you the incoming signal parameters... if it says 4K, HDR and the BT.2020 color space, then that's what it's receiving. If it's only SDR and BT.709 then that is what it will show in the info page.. Keep in mind, that some helpful display notifications that could be coming from your source components may not be visible because they will disappear before the Epson will have a chance to finish its resync and its switching to the HDR colorspace before it begins showing actual images.


The video in my earlier comment labelled Hdr10 shows the Epson generating an HDR notification in the bottom right when HDR content begins to play. I have never seen that notification and even removed my AVR from the equation in an attempt to speed up the sync/handshake. No dice tho.


----------



## WynsWrld98

DocBeeps said:


> The video in my earlier comment labelled Hdr10 shows the Epson generating an HDR notification in the bottom right when HDR content begins to play. I have never seen that notification and even removed my AVR from the equation in an attempt to speed up the sync/handshake. No dice tho.


I've had two 5040s and never seen it show up with HDR content. It seems it's coming from the source not the Epson.


----------



## mxthor3

inspector said:


> PM just sent. Enjoy


Could I possibly get a copy of these settings as well? Brand new 5040 mounted, no idea where to even start. Thanks!


----------



## inspector

mxthor3 said:


> Could I possibly get a copy of these settings as well? Brand new 5040 mounted, no idea where to even start. Thanks!


PM sent. Have fun and enjoy your 5040!


----------



## jsklar

inspector said:


> PM sent. Have fun and enjoy your 5040!


Your settings seem to be quite popular. Mind sharing? I'm a relatively new (to me) 6040ub owner.

Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## talon95tsi

@inspector could I get the settings too please?


----------



## inspector

Hey everyone,

These are the settings I've been using for a couple years and am very happy with.

These are the setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.

When you do your Panny 420/820, if you have one, do the same. PLAYER SETTINGS; HDMI, ADVANCED SETTINGS, VIDEO, AUDIO, 3D and HD OPTIMZER on remote.

UHD NATURAL (I've used this for some BDs that are dark)

_IMAGE_

60
58
50
59
5 5 5
65K
4
49,49,50,50,49,43
PRESET 4
6 6
40 30
GAMMA 0, -3,-4,-4,-4,-4,-6,-30,0
RGB
51 51 61
57,58,50
55,55,50
58,75,50
54,71,62
54,60,50
ON
0
MEDIUM
HIGH

_SIGNAL_

AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD NATURAL

_IMAGE_

51
49
50
59
5 5 5
6K
4
49,49,50,50,44,43
PRESET 3
5 5
5 5
GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0
same as UHD
0
-6
MEDIUM
NORMAL

_SIGNAL_

AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD B&W (B&W CINEMA) I like my films to look black and white

_IMAGE_

50
42
37
43
0 0 0
6 5
50 for all
PRESET 1
0 0
0 0
GAMMA 1
OFF
0
MEDIUM
NORMAL

_SIGNAL_

AUTO
AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC

_IMAGE_

51
49
50
60
5 5 5
5 5
46,48,46,48,59,49
NORMAL
PRESET 3
4
1
5 5
5 5
GAMMA 1
50,58,48
57,51,46
61,50,44
46,50,41
52,49,66
52,23,69
OFF
-12
HIGH
OFF

_SIGNAL_

3D SETUP

AUTO
0
THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
MEDIUM
ON

AUTO
FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast movement, using FAST clears it up)

PANNY 420

SETUP PLAYER SETTINGS

_HDMI_

4K
4K(60p)(4:4:4)
AUTO
AUTO
AUTO ONLY
ON

_ADVANCED_

YcbCr (AUTO)
AUTO(12 bit Priority)
HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
ON
OFF
BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
OFF
AUTO
AUTO
ON
AUTO

_VIDEO_

AUTO
ON

_AUDIO_

OFF
---
UP TO 96 kHz
SURROUND ENCODED
NORMAL
---
O
OFF

_3D_

AUTO
ORIGINAL
OFF

REMOTE

_HD OPTIMIZER_

STANDARD
+8
0
+4
-4


Good luck!

John

...finally retired and spending time in my dedicated HT!!!

SPARKSPLEX HT - Epson 6040 3D/4K UB Projector; 110" .09 16x9 Dalite HD Progressive Screen; Sammy 3D/4K K8500 (r-free); Panny ub420; 7.2.4. Def Tech speakers, Earthquake P12v2 Subs; Auto Source 100vs Amp; Denon 4300H; MX990, Panamax 4300.


----------



## b_scott

mtviewuser said:


> 5040 has old 10Gbps HDMI. You can't get [email protected] HDR. It is limited to 24fps. If you have a blu-ray player that can output 24 fps, it will be better test.


you CAN get 4K/60 but not at 10-bit. has to be 8-bit HDR.


----------



## b_scott

WynsWrld98 said:


> I've had two 5040s and never seen it show up with HDR content. It seems it's coming from the source not the Epson.


You know what, I can't guarantee it's not the Onkyo. I've never had my projector hooked up without the Onkyo AVR. So, it could be that. Sorry for the confusion, it didn't occur to me.


----------



## DocBeeps

b_scott said:


> You know what, I can't guarantee it's not the Onkyo. I've never had my projector hooked up without the Onkyo AVR. So, it could be that. Sorry for the confusion, it didn't occur to me.


As long as I'm getting the right signal, that's all that matters.


----------



## roland6465

b_scott said:


> you CAN get 4K/60 but not at 10-bit. has to be 8-bit HDR.


Which means terrible banding.


----------



## b_scott

roland6465 said:


> Which means terrible banding.


Nothing does 4K/60 8bit except games, and you don't notice banding in games. Movies are not in 4K/60.


----------



## mxthor3

Sorry for such a noob question, but I've searched and really haven't found a straight answer yet. I've got a 5040 with a 133in Da-Lite Scope screen (1.1 gain). I'm in the process of mounting the projector and after using the calculator on the Projector Central site I've been given a throw distance of 18'8 and a range of 13'10 to 29'0. Room is for HT use only and is completely blacked out. Is there an advantage of mounting the 5040 closer to the 13'10 mark or should I just keep it at the suggested 18'8? I can mount it anywhere really, there's no room constraints at all. (26Lx8Hx13W)


----------



## b_scott

mxthor3 said:


> Sorry for such a noob question, but I've searched and really haven't found a straight answer yet. I've got a 5040 with a 133in Da-Lite Scope screen (1.1 gain). I'm in the process of mounting the projector and after using the calculator on the Projector Central site I've been given a throw distance of 18'8 and a range of 13'10 to 29'0. Room is for HT use only and is completely blacked out. Is there an advantage of mounting the 5040 closer to the 13'10 mark or should I just keep it at the suggested 18'8? I can mount it anywhere really, there's no room constraints at all. (26Lx8Hx13W)


closer is almost always better for brightness, if possible. Mine is right at 13'1" because that's the size of room I have, and it projects at 133". But a foot or two isn't going to make a lot of difference.


----------



## Tokodboy

I try to calibrate a TW9300/6040ub and I can't flatten the gamma curve.
From 80-100% white the luminance was the same. It is not helped to turn down the contrast not even when I turned down to 0. It also clipped the whites.
Also I tried to correct gamma with the gamma curve editor, but I can't lower the control points enough to get better result. In the gamma curve editor I turned the way down the corresponding control points and the control ran out of gas at maybe -32...... And the gamma was not changed.

The proejtor projected the image to a white wall and the lamp is a chinese remanufactured lamp with 380 hours. Maybe the lamp is the problem? The hdmi settings are correct.


----------



## inspector

Epson lamps are the only ones to use in our projectors!


----------



## AdamsTX

Hello
My 5040UB won't stay powered off. I press Standby and it shuts down, but then powers right back to the main menu screen. Same deal if I press the power button. Shuts off and then turns back on. Any ideas here? Sorry if this has been covered in the previous 1000 pages.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Hey folks, I’m sure I’m not the only one that has come in here asking this. How worried should I be about buying a refurbed 5040? I know the hdmi limitations and it looks like an Nvidia Shield pretty much solves that outside of gaming. But the power failures... has Epson solved this in their newer refurbs?

Any other issues?

Thanks! 🙏


----------



## AdamsTX

AdamsTX said:


> Hello
> My 5040UB won't stay powered off. I press Standby and it shuts down, but then powers right back to the main menu screen. Same deal if I press the power button. Shuts off and then turns back on. Any ideas here? Sorry if this has been covered in the previous 1000 pages.


Whatever was going on seems to have resolved itself, as it’s staying off now. But I’d be curious what the issue was. I think my kids left it on overnight, maybe that was related.


----------



## b_scott

AdamsTX said:


> Whatever was going on seems to have resolved itself, as it’s staying off now. But I’d be curious what the issue was. I think my kids left it on overnight, maybe that was related.


is your Epson using CEC HDMI control? I had a weird issue where if my Shield TV was on, for some reason it just sent an "on" signal to my projector and it would not turn off.


----------



## ryudoadema

inspector said:


> BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC
> 
> ....
> 
> 3D SETUP
> 
> AUTO
> 0
> THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
> MEDIUM
> ON
> 
> AUTO
> FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast movement, using FAST clears it up)


Thanks Inspector! Your 3D settings looks nice with a few tweaks for my setup. Green had to go down a little on mine. I was able to get the same brightness on med lamp (for less noise and bulb saving) by keeping the iris open at 0.

Also, when you turn on "FAST" it turns off "Motion Interpolation" which I think is what clears up the fast running you were talking about? I went back and forth and see no difference when M.I. is turned off with Fine vs Fast. However, "FAST" also turns off Noise and Mpeg reduction and possibly other post-processing goodies. So I would just suggest turning on/off M.I. as you see fit and leaving "FINE" on. Unless you see something I'm not, it's totally possible. For me I mostly keep M.I. off or low for most films, but crank it to normal or high for animations or mostly cgi movies.


----------



## inspector

I was watching a 3Der and there was a scene with running dogs (can't remember the movie.) The dogs were running with a kind of skipping/jerky movement. So, I changed it to FAST and the problem went away and I've kept it ever since. I do use FINE for all my other movie settings, if I remember correctly.

Thanks for the extra info but I wish there was some way to verify that with someone that knows about the inner workings of our projector.


----------



## ryudoadema

inspector said:


> I was watching a 3Der and there was a scene with running dogs (can't remember the movie.) The dogs were running with a kind of skipping/jerky movement. So, I changed it to FAST and the problem went away and I've kept it ever since. I do use FINE for all my other movie settings, if I remember correctly.
> 
> Thanks for the extra info but I wish there was some way to verify that with someone that knows about the inner workings of our projector.


Well it is verified that FINE turns off Motion Interpolation which you had set at normal, and just that one change makes a HUGE difference in how something like that is resolved on-screen. Easy to verify if you wanted to by turning it back to FAST with M.I. off, and if that problem ever arises again turn it to FAST and see it it helps. My guess is that it would not happen again with M.I. off, and if it did then setting it to "FAST" would not help. Plus you'd be getting the benefits of "FINE" picture quality enhancements along the way!

This from projectorcentral for the 5040ub: "*No Point in Fast Mode.* The usual reason for having Fine and Fast mode is that Fine mode offer better picture quality, while Fast mode cuts down on input lag. With the 5040UB, Fine mode will give you better quality but Fast mode doesn't change the input lag. We see no reason to use it." Projectorreviews stated the only reason "FAST" mode reduces lag is because it turns off CFI (motion interpolation) which you can do separately while keeping the rest of the "FINE" benefits.


----------



## smiles_hope

How picky should I be about the green blobs? I was so excited to get this projector, refurbished, but it's proving to be a headache. The first image shows my first green blob with the Star Wars crawl. The second image is my new refurbished one they sent me. It has even more green blobs. I didn't hook up or mount the second one, just set it up on my couch before going through the hassle of mounting it. 
They show up in dark scenes, credits, etc.


----------



## mtviewuser

epson wont send without QA testing. It is very rare to get broken projector out of the box. Talk to epson, may be they will check before sending you the 3rd replacement.


----------



## carp

Epson sends out broken projectors all the time. Smiles-hope send it back and you will probably get one with a different problem, and then send that one back and it will have a different problem, repeat, repeat. Eventually you will get a good one and it will be worth it once it's all over with but it isn't fun going through the hassle. 

My personal record is 6 projectors before I finally got a good one. On older models I went through it 3-4 times each before getting a projector with no problems.


----------



## roland6465

carp said:


> Epson sends out broken projectors all the time. Smiles-hope send it back and you will probably get one with a different problem, and then send that one back and it will have a different problem, repeat, repeat. Eventually you will get a good one and it will be worth it once it's all over with but it isn't fun going through the hassle.
> 
> My personal record is 6 projectors before I finally got a good one. On older models I went through it 3-4 times each before getting a projector with no problems.


That's terrible. Throw it back! Epson't QC seems to be: Plug in, turn on, verify that it lights up, package and ship. I had five 6040s (the first I bought new) before I gave up and got a Sony.


----------



## smiles_hope

The second replacement projector is coming tomorrow. I sure hope it works!


----------



## nrfisher

carp said:


> Epson sends out broken projectors all the time. Smiles-hope send it back and you will probably get one with a different problem, and then send that one back and it will have a different problem, repeat, repeat. Eventually you will get a good one and it will be worth it once it's all over with but it isn't fun going through the hassle.
> 
> My personal record is 6 projectors before I finally got a good one. On older models I went through it 3-4 times each before getting a projector with no problems.


I loved my refurb 5040UB, but it took me 4 replacements on the initial order to get one that didn’t have dust blobs or some other issue. The 4th arrived seemingly brand new, with 0 hours in the service menu. But unfortunately, after a year it started having a power supply issue where it would intermittently shut off.

So on the 5th replacement just a few months ago, I received what actually was a 5040UB but with a Home Cinema 4000 label on the projector itself. After that and without 5040UB refurbs in stock Epson sent a 5050UB as my last replacement and it arrived with 0 hours as well.

Long story short...
Epson refurb quality control = terrible
Epson customer service & satisfaction = stellar

I think you can buy refurbs with confidence, if you’re willing to wait for a good unit.


----------



## aftab

Folks - I encountered an error today after turning on my refurb 5040UB after a few days:

"CANNOT SWITCH THE LENS IRIS - Contact your nearest Epson Service Center"

The projector itself seemed to be working fine. I just hit ESC and continued to use it. Is this the auto-iris error? Or something else?


----------



## stuart628

sorry all if this has been asked I went back a couple pages and didnt see anything. I have a xbox series x and a epson 4010 (close enough to 5040) my disney plus app on the xbox series x plays only in hd atmos...but netflix and everything else plays uhd.....what am I doing wrong? is there a setting that needs changed somewhere? when the series x set up it set the display as 4kuhd and said I can support hdr and 4k just not gaming in 4k and hdr....thanks for any help you can give


----------



## PixelPusher15

stuart628 said:


> sorry all if this has been asked I went back a couple pages and didnt see anything. I have a xbox series x and a epson 4010 (close enough to 5040) my disney plus app on the xbox series x plays only in hd atmos...but netflix and everything else plays uhd.....what am I doing wrong? is there a setting that needs changed somewhere? when the series x set up it set the display as 4kuhd and said I can support hdr and 4k just not gaming in 4k and hdr....thanks for any help you can give


There's a chance that the D+ app requires a 4K HDR 60Hz display. I know there are some services on some platforms that don't work because of this. Nvidia Shield, Apple TV 4k and the newer Chromecast are able to set the resolution to 4K HDR 30Hz. Maybe someone else can chime in and say if this is actually the case for the box series x, but I think it is.

There's also the HDFury Linker if you want to use your current devices.


----------



## stuart628

I might have to look into that...all apps work on apple tv which I can switch over too I just am being anal and wanting the xbox to work as well....might be time to upgrade projectors lol.


----------



## rajdori

rfb6435 said:


> This is an old portion of the thread but I have been working on it with my setup and have something that should be of interest....
> 
> I now have 4kHDR with atmos streaming working on my 5040ub with the nvidia shield. It has been covered that the shield is the best match for the 5040ub and can send 24p HDR better than other boxes.
> 
> The problem is that the atmos audio stream is only on the 4k HDR video. Much like how many blurays don't support atmos on the non HDR disc the same is true of streaming.
> 
> It won't work unless the firestick/roku/etc recognize it as an HDR capable display and they don't understand 4k24 HDR... I have a couple of firesticks and a roku ultra and didn't have luck getting them to work with HDR10 on the 5040ub.
> 
> I was able to get atmos to work with my hdfury linker set to accept 4k 4:4:4 60 HDR which downscales it to 4k 60 8bit SDR. This works on both the firestick and roku ultra but it really isn't a great solution because color depth is lost and you need the linker. The linker is expensive, kind of a pain to get setup to work properly and also kind of annoying when it switches resolution and there is a re-sync delay.
> 
> With the shield It can be done without the linker. I wasn't sure it would work for atmos from what I had read but the latest nvidia shield can indeed do it!
> 
> I bought an nvidia shield pro and set the monitor resolution to 4k 23.97... with 4:2:2 12 bit. I then went into the supported audio formats and selected all of them (for some reason auto detect doesn't work but selecting all formats manually works). It works! the nvidia shield must internally scale things. It actually gives me the 24hz HDR with 4:2:2 which is the top format for the 5040ub and allows it to use the stream with atmos! I tried it and it works for disney+, netflix, and prime streaming. It probably wastes a lot of internet bandwidth given that we are throwing away a lot of the signal but it works great.
> 
> The only downside is that my shield pro seems to have a defective fan which is loud so I will have to exchange it. The normal 2020 shield tube should also work the same way, it just doesn't have as much USB support and is in the tube rather than the traditional box.
> 
> So I think this is the best solution for 4k atmos streaming on the 5040ub!
> 
> Now if the atmos from disney+, etc actually used my wide speakers effectively I would be happy (they don't seem to get much content).
> 
> -Rich


Thanks much for the heads up. Makes me want to move from GoogleTV to NVidia Shield Pro. 

I already have Panasonic ubp420, but looks like it's Netflix app is 60hz, so no 4kHDR from it on 5040ub - not sure if that has changed. Anyone here who has both and can confirm benefits of Nvidia Pro vs Panny ub420.


----------



## camtah

I have a question for those of you out there that use a Shield 2019 with a 5040/6040. I currently have a Shield 2015 connected to my 6040. I have played around with 1080p, [email protected] and [email protected] settings. The picture is actually quite nice.

Regarding the Shield 2019:
I know this unit has the upscaler for 1080p, but doesn't the 5040/6040 also upscale on a 1080p signal? I assumed that with a 4k input, the Epson downscaled it to 1080P to add image enhancement. So does passing an upscaled Shield 2019 1080p signal also get enhanced by the projector if set that way? If I get a new Shield, would I not benefit enough from the upscaler with this projector?

Thanks....


----------



## stuart628

I got the Disney Plus thing figured out, I finally had time to mess around with settings today and went on my xbox and looked at what it auto setup and noticed allow 4.2.2 wasnt checked...checked that and disney plus now plays in 4k uhd! thanks all.


----------



## JoeBoy73

Quick question for everyone, I'm having a house built and I had question about the 6050 throw distance. The room is on the small side and I'm wanting to make sure I have the measurements correct. I'm trying to get a 120in screen and the room is 12.4ft deep. Am I correct if the PJ is at the very back of the room , will the lens need to be at 11'10"? Will I have to take in account for the PJ's length also, I'm really hoping this doesn't put me at smaller than 120inches.


----------



## BiggNewt

My 5040 just stopped working with no signs of issues before today. No blue lights, nothing. I'm a year out of my warranty. Has anyone else had luck getting a refurb replacement being this far out of your warranty?

I'm hoping they are little more lenient considering this is a well known issue. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## firejnstruc1

inspector said:


> Epson lamps are the only ones to use in our projectors!


----------



## firejnstruc1

Inspector if you could pm me your 4K settings I would like to try them


----------



## inspector

firejnstruc1 said:


> Inspector if you could pm me your 4K settings I would like to try them


Sure, I'll post them here later on...but, the Panny 420/820 does wonders for UHD with our players.


----------



## inspector

inspector said:


> Sure, I'll post them here later on...but, the Panny 420/820 does wonders for UHD with our players.


PM sent


----------



## deftoneuk

Howdy folks, Ive had zero issues with my 5040ub since it was installed, but now might have an issue that is probably configuration based. My old Pioneer VSX-523 died this week after 8 years of service, replaced today with a Yamaha RX-V685. All content is through an Nvidia Shield. 

When I fire it up the projector is immediately buzzing, sounds identical to the buzzing noise when enhancement is enabled. I checked the projector settings and it was still turned off. When I kill the Receiver or Shield the buzzing stops, so I assume there is some configuration mis-match with the new receiver. Before I dive in too deep with config testing, has anyone experienced this before?


----------



## HailSagan

BiggNewt said:


> My 5040 just stopped working with no signs of issues before today. No blue lights, nothing. I'm a year out of my warranty. Has anyone else had luck getting a refurb replacement being this far out of your warranty?
> 
> I'm hoping they are little more lenient considering this is a well known issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Mine stopped working and is several years out of warranty. They approved an RMA to repair it for me - no offer for a refurb replacement, though.

Not sure if it's because they have no stock currently, or if because of expired warranty.


----------



## BiggNewt

HailSagan said:


> Mine stopped working and is several years out of warranty. They approved an RMA to repair it for me - no offer for a refurb replacement, though.
> 
> Not sure if it's because they have no stock currently, or if because of expired warranty.


Update on my situation. They sent me a replacement. I was a little over a year out of warranty but had less than 1000 hrs on my unit. That might have made a difference. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## HailSagan

BiggNewt said:


> Update on my situation. They sent me a replacement. I was a little over a year out of warranty but had less than 1000 hrs on my unit. That might have made a difference.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Good for you. Makes me wonder if I should keep trying with the reps..


----------



## BiggNewt

HailSagan said:


> Good for you. Makes me wonder if I should keep trying with the reps..


I would try. They have them in stock as they see selling them on they clearance section of the store. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## merceg100

I have 5040Ub with stock firmware on it. I am planning to update it, last firmware I found is 1.14. Do I need to update in specific order from stock firmware to 1.11-1.12-1.13-1.14 or I can skip all in between and just go from stock do 1.14?

Thanks


----------



## matty1137

What happens when trying to play 4K 60fps HDR content on this projector using a Panasonic UB-420 player (or other 4K player)?

Do we lose the HDR but it plays in 60fps, or does the frame rate drop while keeping HDR intact?


----------



## roland6465

matty1137 said:


> What happens when trying to play 4K 60fps HDR content on this projector using a Panasonic UB-420 player (or other 4K player)?
> 
> Do we lose the HDR but it plays in 60fps, or does the frame rate drop while keeping HDR intact?


It drops the frame rate, which causes banding. If your streaming device supports UHD/HDR/30Hz, you can eliminate the banding by forcing 60 Hz content to that.


----------



## CaptainChunk

While I've owned my 5040UB for a little while now, I haven't bothered to do any adjustments because I've been using a temporary screen. I finally got my screen installed and can now make some adjustments to the projector. Is there a guide in these 20,000 posts about how to start the adjustment process? I'm running a Nvidia Shield and Panny UB420 into a Denon 4300 to the 5040UB.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## inspector

I'm running the same as you are except not running the Nvidia Shield. Just PM me and I'll send you my settings for 3D color/B&W; BD color/B&W, UHD, 3D color/B&W.

John


----------



## Gillietalls

Sorry if this has been covered but I need help. My father in-law just bought a new house and the previous owner left an 120“ screen and this projector. I don’t own a projector and know nothing about them. Hence why I’m here. Question is how, if possible, can we adjust the aspect ratio so 16x9 material (cable, Apple TV, and Shield) fills the entire screen horizontally? Right now his 16x9 stuff has black bars on the side. Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Gillietalls said:


> Sorry if this has been covered but I need help. My father in-law just bought a new house and the previous owner left an 120“ screen and this projector. I don’t own a projector and know nothing about them. Hence why I’m here. Question is how, if possible, can we adjust the aspect ratio so 16x9 material (cable, Apple TV, and Shield) fills the entire screen horizontally? Right now his 16x9 stuff has black bars on the side. Thanks in advance for any help.


It sounds like the screen is something like a 2.39:1 so you can use the zoom of the projector to show 2.39:1 ratio movies so they fill the screen projecting the black horizontal letterbox bars off the screen above and below it. 

Based on this you're stuck with side letterboxing when watching 16:9 content.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Gillietalls said:


> Sorry if this has been covered but I need help. My father in-law just bought a new house and the previous owner left an 120“ screen and this projector. I don’t own a projector and know nothing about them. Hence why I’m here. Question is how, if possible, can we adjust the aspect ratio so 16x9 material (cable, Apple TV, and Shield) fills the entire screen horizontally? Right now his 16x9 stuff has black bars on the side. Thanks in advance for any help.


Previous owner left a 5040/6040?


----------



## roland6465

PixelPusher15 said:


> Previous owner left a 5040/6040?
> 
> View attachment 3097687


Hell, I practically gave my (fifth) 6040 away just to get off the refurb roulette wheel. I had already vomited twice.


----------



## inspector

What's great is my 6040 from 2017 (new) it's still running strong...other than a ever so slight dust blot in the lower black space of a 2.35: film that decided to rear its ugly head last month. If the picture is light, you can't see it, if it's dark then you can,.. barely. 

I'm just glad that it gives such a great picture more than my Epson 9500.


----------



## Gillietalls

WynsWrld98 said:


> It sounds like the screen is something like a 2.39:1 so you can use the zoom of the projector to show 2.39:1 ratio movies so they fill the screen projecting the black horizontal letterbox bars off the screen above and below it.
> 
> Based on this you're stuck with side letterboxing when watching 16:9 content.


Eeeeeek. Ok. I figured this might be the case when playing with the remote and the settings. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## langless28

Hey folks. Just entering the home theater realm. Opposite of the preferrred method, I purchased a fixed frame screen first before doing any research on projectors ! it’s a 103” 2.4:1 screen with 1.1 gain. I have been researching a lot based on a $1500 price point and it’s led me to a refurb 5040ub due to picture quality, placement options, and powered lens for the 2.4:1/16:9 switching I’ll obviously be doing. This room is light controlled. Dedicated theater/ pinball room but it’s not built to any theater specs, only a regular room used for this purpose. 

My physical media collection is all blu-rays and any 4K content would be streaming from a Roku or similar device (this forum led me to the shield player which is cool!).
Any gaming would be with older consoles (ps3 and earlier). I also only have a 5.1 setup (with up to 7.1) and won’t go crazier than that starting off.
Because $1500 is a big purchase for me, does the collective think I’ll start running into streaming movie issues in a few years? Seems like there is a lot of workaround in 2021 just to give this thing signals it likes. I don’t want to be obsolete with it just in a few years.
Thoughts?


----------



## PixelPusher15

langless28 said:


> Hey folks. Just entering the home theater realm. Opposite of the preferrred method, I purchased a fixed frame screen first before doing any research on projectors ! it’s a 103” 2.4:1 screen with 1.1 gain. I have been researching a lot based on a $1500 price point and it’s led me to a refurb 5040ub due to picture quality, placement options, and powered lens for the 2.4:1/16:9 switching I’ll obviously be doing. This room is light controlled. Dedicated theater/ pinball room but it’s not built to any theater specs, only a regular room used for this purpose.
> 
> My physical media collection is all blu-rays and any 4K content would be streaming from a Roku or similar device (this forum led me to the shield player which is cool!).
> Any gaming would be with older consoles (ps3 and earlier). I also only have a 5.1 setup (with up to 7.1) and won’t go crazier than that starting off.
> Because $1500 is a big purchase for me, does the collective think I’ll start running into streaming movie issues in a few years? Seems like there is a lot of workaround in 2021 just to give this thing signals it likes. I don’t want to be obsolete with it just in a few years.
> Thoughts?


I had issues with the Shield because it doesn't have match frame rate like the Apple TV 4K does. I'd want to set it at 4k 60hz SDR for things like youtube and YouTube TV but then I'd want it set at 24hz so I could get HDR for streaming through Netflix/Disney+. If I left it at 4K 24hz and watched YT or YTT then the motion sucked. I tried just leaving it at 4K 30hz for everything but then I got judder for 24hz content. I was constantly changing resolutions on the shield and then due to the HDR limitations on the 4010 (going to be similar on the 5040 just worse black levels) I was having to flip between different user saved color modes. The Apple TV 4K made it so I only had to worry about having the 4010 set up correctly.

I honestly think there will be workarounds to make the limited HDMI port work. There's always an HDFury device to help out too. Make sure you are aware of the power supply risk.


----------



## langless28

PixelPusher15 said:


> I had issues with the Shield because it doesn't have match frame rate like the Apple TV 4K does. I'd want to set it at 4k 60hz SDR for things like youtube and YouTube TV but then I'd want it set at 24hz so I could get HDR for streaming through Netflix/Disney+. If I left it at 4K 24hz and watched YT or YTT then the motion sucked. I tried just leaving it at 4K 30hz for everything but then I got judder for 24hz content. I was constantly changing resolutions on the shield and then due to the HDR limitations on the 4010 (going to be similar on the 5040 just worse black levels) I was having to flip between different user saved color modes. The Apple TV 4K made it so I only had to worry about having the 4010 set up correctly.
> 
> I honestly think there will be workarounds to make the limited HDMI port work. There's always an HDFury device to help out too. Make sure you are aware of the power supply risk.


Thanks for the reply. Yes I am completely new to home theater and just started digging into all this hdmi/frame rate/ hdr stuff.
Seems like it’s frustrating to have to change all this stuff depending on the source of streaming.

I also wish I could see what the issues on the motion look like. Would it even be stuff that your average joe could even see? Or only videophiles?

But I also cannot seem to find something better that meets the requirements of the room and wanting to switch between 2.4:1/16:9. Ideally I would have the projector 16’ from the screen.
I have read on the power supply issues. All I can hope for is it pops up under the 2 year warranty.


----------



## WynsWrld98

langless28 said:


> Thanks for the reply. Yes I am completely new to home theater and just started digging into all this hdmi/frame rate/ hdr stuff.
> Seems like it’s frustrating to have to change all this stuff depending on the source of streaming.
> 
> I also wish I could see what the issues on the motion look like. Would it even be stuff that your average joe could even see? Or only videophiles?
> 
> But I also cannot seem to find something better that meets the requirements of the room and wanting to switch between 2.4:1/16:9. Ideally I would have the projector 16’ from the screen.
> I have read on the power supply issues. All I can hope for is it pops up under the 2 year warranty.


The motion problems are obvious to anyone it's super annoying. I had a Shield, returned it and bought an Apple TV 4K. Once you have the options setup correctly it works beautifully with the 5040UB. If you ever are interested in ripped movies from your collection (e.g., via MakeMkv) I highly recommend the Zidoo Z9X. It plays everything I throw at it flawlessly automatically detects and sets refresh rate that matches what the Epson can do all AUTOMATICALLY and plays high rez soundtracks such as Atmos, DTS-HD MA, etc. It's a great box you just connect your USB hard drive with movies to it and it works great (after some config).


----------



## PixelPusher15

langless28 said:


> Thanks for the reply. Yes I am completely new to home theater and just started digging into all this hdmi/frame rate/ hdr stuff.
> Seems like it’s frustrating to have to change all this stuff depending on the source of streaming.
> 
> I also wish I could see what the issues on the motion look like. Would it even be stuff that your average joe could even see? Or only videophiles?
> 
> But I also cannot seem to find something better that meets the requirements of the room and wanting to switch between 2.4:1/16:9. Ideally I would have the projector 16’ from the screen.
> I have read on the power supply issues. All I can hope for is it pops up under the 2 year warranty.


I'm particular about things but I'd assume most would notice it. Some may just ignore it but it is plainly visible.

I agree with @WynsWrld98, the ATV4K does pretty much just work with the limited HDMI 1.4 Epsons. I haven't owned a 5040 (odd that I'm in the owner's thread, I know) so maybe some here can share their settings for HDR, heck, I'm guessing there's some posts in here that detail it. Just know that there are some hurdles to get a 5040 to work well. Not impossible, as many here will tell you.


----------



## Grayson73

The most annoying thing for me is that I have to check the signal to see if it's SDR or HDR and then manually change preset accordingly. Is there a way to get it to auto switch based on signal received?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Grayson73 said:


> The most annoying thing for me is that I have to check the signal to see if it's SDR or HDR and then manually change preset accordingly. Is there a way to get it to auto switch based on signal received?


I’m not sure what changed, but when I had the 5040UB, it would switch automatic between SDR and HDR.





faq-0000530-plhc5040ub | SPT_V11H713020 | Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB | Cinema Series | Projectors | Support | Epson US







epson.com


----------



## PixelPusher15

Grayson73 said:


> The most annoying thing for me is that I have to check the signal to see if it's SDR or HDR and then manually change preset accordingly. Is there a way to get it to auto switch based on signal received?





Dominic Chan said:


> I’m not sure what changed, but when I had the 5040UB, it would switch automatic between SDR and HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> faq-0000530-plhc5040ub | SPT_V11H713020 | Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB | Cinema Series | Projectors | Support | Epson US
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> epson.com


I think what @Grayson73 is wanting is for it to switch to a preset color mode for HDR. So if you calibrate one mode for HDR and one for SDR then the projector switches between them automatically based on metadata. This is what the BenQ's do. 

I think I found a way but it is going to take some money and effort. The HDFury Vertex2 and Diva can send RS232 commands based on metadata received. The Epson's can accept RS232 commands for just about everything. It looks like you could have it switch between any user-saved preset based on metadata. This would be far superior to even what BenQ does.


----------



## Grayson73

PixelPusher15 said:


> I think what @Grayson73 is wanting is for it to switch to a preset color mode for HDR. So if you calibrate one mode for HDR and one for SDR then the projector switches between them automatically based on metadata. This is what the BenQ's do.
> 
> I think I found a way but it is going to take some money and effort. The HDFury Vertex2 and Diva can send RS232 commands based on metadata received. The Epson's can accept RS232 commands for just about everything. It looks like you could have it switch between any user-saved preset based on metadata. This would be far superior to even what BenQ does.


Yes, that is correct. I have separate calibrations for SDR and HDR and have to load them.


----------



## deano86

Grayson73 said:


> Yes, that is correct. I have separate calibrations for SDR and HDR and have to load them.


+1 ... Ya, it would be great if the projector also switched to your HDR calibration. It obviously detects the incoming HDR BT 2020 color space and switches to the Auto Bright or HDR 1 preset automatically... why not also to your preselected HDR labeled picture setttings as well? I don't see why this couldn't be activated in a firmware update, since the projector already detects an incoming 3D signal and automatically switches to your 3D calibrated picture mode...


----------



## stuart628

So quick question for the experts, I have a 4040 projector (thought it was a 4010 but I have gone through too many projectors in the last couple years) anyways I have a apple tv 4k I run with it and I am pretty happy, am I missing something by not having the Nvidia Shield or are they pretty close in terms of performance?


----------



## PixelPusher15

stuart628 said:


> So quick question for the experts, I have a 4040 projector (thought it was a 4010 but I have gone through too many projectors in the last couple years) anyways I have a apple tv 4k I run with it and I am pretty happy, am I missing something by not having the Nvidia Shield or are they pretty close in terms of performance?


No. I actually believe that the Shield users are missing out on by not using the ATV4K. There's some things that both can/can't do but Apple TVs frame rate match actually works without any user involvement. This is essential with a HDMI 1.4 projector and as to not get judder. I have both right now and the Shield is going to get sold off. The AI enhancement that the Shield has for 1080p content is cool but manually changing resolutions/refresh rates sucked hardcore.


----------



## x7007

Hi, can yo 3D+HDR+120hz at theou tell me how to know if a Projector can do 3D+HDR TAB or SBS or Frame Sequential 120hz? I am trying to find out but there are so many options. I'm looking for a projector with good quality on everything but can d same time with TAB mode preferably if the only option is SBS it's ok also.


is there such an option?


----------



## langless28

So I bit the bullet and purchased a refurbished 5040ub as my first dive into the projector / home theater world.


----------



## x7007

Can anyone answer about it's 3D options? I want to order it from a local shop in my country in Israel, but I still deciding between Benq X1300i and this. I want the best 3D but also the best quality. my main usage is 3D 1080p120hz if possible or 4K60 3D if possible. I won't be using it for Movies but I will be gaming using it on PC and with a program. I need to know if you can manually get 3D SBS or TAB with HDR on. is that possible? it will cost me 2500$ just to try and I won't be able to return it. Please someone can test it for me, answer about it?


----------



## acras13

Hey all, just ordered a 5040ub refurb this afternoon, hoping I'll win the refurb lottery and get a gem first time . I.m coming from DLP ( benq w1070 then ht2050) . Was happy with the PQ of both , but the 1070 died 6 mo. out of warranty so I bought the 2050 instead of repairing it , and that pig died 2 mo out of the extended warranty , so I'm done with Benq . 

I was on the fence between the 3800 and totally blowing my budget on the 5050 , then after reading here and in the refurb thread I decided the differences between the 5040 and 5050 were not worth $1300 to me right now, so 5040 it is! This is going to be an all purpose PJ , casual viewing with some light , occasional gaming , and movies in my living room. I am hoping that it will do at least as well as my previous PJ's with ambient light , and when I go dark ( gray walls , blackout curtains and triple velvet floor to ceiling drapes covering the first 3' of sidewalls from the screen wall)

The first question I have is , does anyone have any experience with cranking the lens shift to the limits and what the PQ is like at the limits? If it doesn't effect the image to do so then I can place the pj in the upper back corner of my room against the wall to the room the rest of my equipment sits in , making cable runs a little easier and cleaning up the look of the room a bit .I would be looking at all the horizontal shift it can do , and most of the vert, PJ on a high shelf.

Thanks in advance and I'm sure I'll have more questions once I have this baby in my house.


----------



## eddified

I've had the 5040ub for a year and a half now, I bought it in refurb condition. I have it projecting a 120" image on the close end of the range (to maximize brightness, it's darker on the telephoto end). Something I've noticed from the beginning, is the chromatic aberration. I'm not sure it's called that, but I'm calling it that. When there is some white text on a dark background, it should be nice and crisp. But, the white text is showing a little bit of purple on one side where it should just be white, and a little bit of something else (can't remember exactly what color) on the other side, of each letter. Kind of like this: https://th.bing.com/th/id/Radd22dc281ff69a12c24504e2d25b79f?rik=6CvhEraxJ7MKMg&riu=http://s3.amazonaws.com/pbblogassets/uploads/2014/06/chromatic-aberration.jpg&ehk=furm2F6H7h0/zN8/hUKBtRheznS+E5LPwX6fSiYPjoY=&risl=&pid=ImgRaw

Is this normal for this projector? Or, maybe this is why it was returned the first time, who knows. Is a little bit a chromatic aberration normal?


----------



## WynsWrld98

acras13 said:


> Hey all, just ordered a 5040ub refurb this afternoon, hoping I'll win the refurb lottery and get a gem first time . I.m coming from DLP ( benq w1070 then ht2050) . Was happy with the PQ of both , but the 1070 died 6 mo. out of warranty so I bought the 2050 instead of repairing it , and that pig died 2 mo out of the extended warranty , so I'm done with Benq .
> 
> I was on the fence between the 3800 and totally blowing my budget on the 5050 , then after reading here and in the refurb thread I decided the differences between the 5040 and 5050 were not worth $1300 to me right now, so 5040 it is! This is going to be an all purpose PJ , casual viewing with some light , occasional gaming , and movies in my living room. I am hoping that it will do at least as well as my previous PJ's with ambient light , and when I go dark ( gray walls , blackout curtains and triple velvet floor to ceiling drapes covering the first 3' of sidewalls from the screen wall)
> 
> The first question I have is , does anyone have any experience with cranking the lens shift to the limits and what the PQ is like at the limits? If it doesn't effect the image to do so then I can place the pj in the upper back corner of my room against the wall to the room the rest of my equipment sits in , making cable runs a little easier and cleaning up the look of the room a bit .I would be looking at all the horizontal shift it can do , and most of the vert, PJ on a high shelf.
> 
> Thanks in advance and I'm sure I'll have more questions once I have this baby in my house.


IMO the 5050 18 GB HDMI is really only important for gamers


----------



## roland6465

eddified said:


> I've had the 5040ub for a year and a half now, I bought it in refurb condition. I have it projecting a 120" image on the close end of the range (to maximize brightness, it's darker on the telephoto end). Something I've noticed from the beginning, is the chromatic aberration. I'm not sure it's called that, but I'm calling it that. When there is some white text on a dark background, it should be nice and crisp. But, the white text is showing a little bit of purple on one side where it should just be white, and a little bit of something else (can't remember exactly what color) on the other side, of each letter. Kind of like this: https://th.bing.com/th/id/Radd22dc281ff69a12c24504e2d25b79f?rik=6CvhEraxJ7MKMg&riu=http://s3.amazonaws.com/pbblogassets/uploads/2014/06/chromatic-aberration.jpg&ehk=furm2F6H7h0/zN8/hUKBtRheznS+E5LPwX6fSiYPjoY=&risl=&pid=ImgRaw
> 
> Is this normal for this projector? Or, maybe this is why it was returned the first time, who knows. Is a little bit a chromatic aberration normal?


Have you done a panel alignment? Sounds like the culprit.


----------



## jesped2

x7007 said:


> Can anyone answer about it's 3D options? I want to order it from a local shop in my country in Israel, but I still deciding between Benq X1300i and this. I want the best 3D but also the best quality. my main usage is 3D 1080p120hz if possible or 4K60 3D if possible. I won't be using it for Movies but I will be gaming using it on PC and with a program. I need to know if you can manually get 3D SBS or TAB with HDR on. is that possible? it will cost me 2500$ just to try and I won't be able to return it. Please someone can test it for me, answer about it?


Hey man, Bombadil from the Superdepth3D discord here. Funny to see you here too. 😄

The best I get out of my 6040ub is a custom resolution of [email protected] 12bit using CRU ( Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) ), which works too for the 3D modes, either in SBS or TB/OU. Even if it's nothing major, there is always a bit of crosstalk, brightness is reduced (as in every active shutter solution) and there is a bit of eye fatigue due to active shutter glasses... but my Oculus Quest 2 is A LOT worse in all aspects, so...

HDR is reported as working in the 3D mode, but colors are weird. It needs color correction, which can be done in Reshade but it's not straightforward or automatic.


----------



## x7007

jesped2 said:


> Hey man, Bombadil from the Superdepth3D discord here. Funny to see you here too. 😄
> 
> The best I get out of my 6040ub is a custom resolution of [email protected] 12bit using CRU ( Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) ), which works too for the 3D modes, either in SBS or TB/OU. Even if it's nothing major, there is always a bit of crosstalk, brightness is reduced (as in every active shutter solution) and there is a bit of eye fatigue due to active shutter glasses... but my Oculus Quest 2 is A LOT worse in all aspects, so...
> 
> HDR is reported as working in the 3D mode, but colors are weird. It needs color correction, which can be done in Reshade but it's not straightforward or automatic.


hey  
how do you know how much you can go in cru and what exactly to change there? do you have a simple guide how you did it? 
Thanks


----------



## b_scott

looking for a replacement lamp for my 5040ub to keep on hand for the future (at my current rate, mine are going to last about 2 years a pop). Epson is out of stock, is this an actual original bulb?









OEM V13H010L49 Lamp & Housing for Epson Projectors -1 Year Jaspertronics Full Support Warranty!


New Epson UHE lamp & housing for the following Epson models: V13H010L49 Lamp Specifications Specifications Data Product Code V13H010L49 Part Type Lamp & Housing Warranty Industry Leading 1 Year Warranty Condition New Lamp Type Epson Lamp & Housing - Retail Packaging Hours Rating 4,000 hours...




www.jaspertronics.com





where does everyone here buy their bulbs?


----------



## inspector

Try projectorcentral.com


----------



## by96

inspector said:


> Try projectorcentral.com


Thanks for the tip. Looks like all their recommended sellers are OEM bulbs in non-OEM housings. Is that your preferred option? I have read so many varying comments on this issue.


----------



## b_scott

yeah I saw that too. Seems like I should be looking for fully OEM assemblies, unless others have used ones like these successfully.


----------



## TrekFX

b_scott said:


> yeah I saw that too. Seems like I should be looking for fully OEM assemblies, unless others have used ones like these successfully.


I contacted them and they say they are fully OEM.






PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB - Projectors - Products







compassmicro.com





In my experience with other Epson projectors, non-OEM have been, to put it very mildly, problematic. OK.... very problematic!


----------



## by96

TrekFX said:


> I contacted them and they say they are fully OEM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PowerLite Home Cinema 5040UB - Projectors - Products
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> compassmicro.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my experience with other Epson projectors, non-OEM have been, to put it very mildly, problematic. OK.... very problematic!


Just to make sure I am reading your post right, are you saying Compass Micro is fully OEM?


----------



## TrekFX

by96 said:


> Just to make sure I am reading your post right, are you saying Compass Micro is fully OEM?


That's what they say. I haven't bought from them yet so I cannot personally confirm, but based on my experience with the "bargain" lamps.... I will give them a try. A lamp and a couple of air filters.


----------



## Dominic Chan

by96 said:


> Just to make sure I am reading your post right, are you saying Compass Micro is fully OEM?


The term “OEM” can have different interpretations. To be 100% sure it’s original Epson, look for the Epson retail packaging like the one in the previous post:








Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread


Hi, can yo 3D+HDR+120hz at theou tell me how to know if a Projector can do 3D+HDR TAB or SBS or Frame Sequential 120hz? I am trying to find out but there are so many options. I'm looking for a projector with good quality on everything but can d same time with TAB mode preferably if the only...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## by96

Dominic Chan said:


> The term “OEM” can have different interpretations. To be 100% sure it’s original Epson, look for the Epson retail packaging such as the one in the previous post:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread
> 
> 
> Hi, can yo 3D+HDR+120hz at theou tell me how to know if a Projector can do 3D+HDR TAB or SBS or Frame Sequential 120hz? I am trying to find out but there are so many options. I'm looking for a projector with good quality on everything but can d same time with TAB mode preferably if the only...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


I ordered one from Compass Micro as linked above. I will be interested to see if it comes in an Epson box. I will say, it looks like they do Epson warranty work, so I would think they would sell OEM bulbs.


----------



## deano86

by96 said:


> I ordered one from Compass Micro as linked above. I will be interested to see if it comes in an Epson box. I will say, it looks like they do Epson warranty work, so I would think they would sell OEM bulbs.


I would say it definitely should arrive in an official Epson labeled box... if it doesn't, it is not legit....


----------



## jesped2

x7007 said:


> hey
> how do you know how much you can go in cru and what exactly to change there? do you have a simple guide how you did it?
> Thanks


It was pure trial and error and patience. Just one pixel above 2128x1198 and screen goes to black or displays green garbage. 2128x1198 is the absolute top I got, which is a pretty good 10% up from 1080p for free. Doing it in CRU instead of the Nvidia Custom Resolutions allows you to maintain the 12bpc color depth.

You just have to Edit the current Extension block and add the resolution in "Detailed resolutions":


----------



## msankadi

Has anyone here considered Epson extended warranty? I got an extended warranty quote from Epson for an amount roughly 10% of the projector price in India for a year. I can take 2 years version by multiplying it by 2. Do you think I should go for it? 

Following is the tnc he mentioned: 

Terms and Conditions:
• AMC is under one year onsite services.
• No Preventive Maintenance.
• Consumable (Only for projector: Lamp unit), accessories and Network card will not be covered in contract.
• Any modification or alteration to the product is not covered under AMC.
• Parts broken due to mishandling or tampering or Burnt Cases will not be covered under AMC.
• Product should be in fully working condition before entering in to the contract.
• AMC Period starts from the date of PO. 
• Payment Terms: Annual, 100% in advance along with the PO.
• Tax will be extra.
• Quote is valid for one month.


----------



## reebok

msankadi said:


> Has anyone here considered Epson extended warranty? I got an extended warranty quote from Epson for an amount roughly 10% of the projector price in India for a year. I can take 2 years version by multiplying it by 2. Do you think I should go for it?


I generally follow this advice:








Are Extended Warranties Worth It?


Extended warranties: a great safety net or a total rip-off? Learn more about extended warranties and what they mean for you.




www.daveramsey.com




you will always find someone who has appreciated an extended warranty, but not the majority, and it is not worth the cost statistically.


----------



## reebok

Has anyone compared the wireless-HD mode and hard wired with screenshots? Theoretically it should be equal but I would love to see a comparison. I am using the wireless mode. Thanks.


----------



## bigdad56

Does anyone have suggestions on cleaning the lenses on the 5040ub? I can't tell in the picture quality but the lenses appear to have an awful lot of dust on them...


----------



## Dominic Chan

bigdad56 said:


> Does anyone have suggestions on cleaning the lenses on the 5040ub? I can't tell in the picture quality but the lenses appear to have an awful lot of dust on them...


Use a bulb blower, something like this:


https://www.amazon.com/JJC-Comptuter-Television-Precision-Instruments/dp/B07C3PJQXM/ref=ex_alt_wg_d?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_r=f1044e79-4956-4f43-bb8c-67dd0d747e3d&pd_rd_w=XQTbz&pd_rd_wg=UKrua&pf_rd_r=Z5PHHMMST90XR9ZFYQ8V&pf_rd_p=4e1b46a8-daf9-4433-b97e-d6df97cf3699&pd_rd_i=B07C3PJQXM&psc=1



Do not use compressed air or anything that may have a propellant.


----------



## by96

bigdad56 said:


> Does anyone have suggestions on cleaning the lenses on the 5040ub? I can't tell in the picture quality but the lenses appear to have an awful lot of dust on them...


I would use extreme caution on cleaning the lens. I followed Epson's online instructions and ended up removing some coating on the lens and making it much worse. I have read that the coating impacts contrast. (Fortunately for me, I had to send that PJ back as it had a dust spot.) I found similar experiences online. Don't use any chemicals, even if approved for lenses.

In general, dust alone won't impact the picture. I would worry more about smudges, but those should not regularly be showing up on your lens. I agree that a bulb blower is safe, just try and avoid any wiping unless absolutely necessary.


----------



## Hicks111

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy.


I would love to get your settings as well.


----------



## inspector

PM sent


----------



## by96

Dominic Chan said:


> The term “OEM” can have different interpretations. To be 100% sure it’s original Epson, look for the Epson retail packaging like the one in the previous post:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread
> 
> 
> Hi, can yo 3D+HDR+120hz at theou tell me how to know if a Projector can do 3D+HDR TAB or SBS or Frame Sequential 120hz? I am trying to find out but there are so many options. I'm looking for a projector with good quality on everything but can d same time with TAB mode preferably if the only...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


I received the lamp from Compass Micro. It did not come in the Epson box as posted. I contacted the company and he assured me that it is OEM. They buy the lamps directly from Epson but take them out of the Epson box in order to pack them for shipping. Here is a picture of how the lens came. Is this the type of insert found in the Epson box? Maybe I am wrong, but I really do believe these are OEM.


----------



## inspector

That's what one of my spares looks like. Why they would take it out of the box, which is exactly that size and adds extra protection to t in shipping...is beyond me.


----------



## by96

inspector said:


> That's what one of my spares looks like. Why they would take it out of the box, which is exactly that size and adds extra protection to t in shipping...is beyond me.


It fits in a Fedex standard sized box, so I assume cheaper shipping cost. It was packed very well with popcorn.


----------



## bigdad56

Dominic Chan said:


> Use a bulb blower, something like this:
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/JJC-Comptuter-Television-Precision-Instruments/dp/B07C3PJQXM/ref=ex_alt_wg_d?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_r=f1044e79-4956-4f43-bb8c-67dd0d747e3d&pd_rd_w=XQTbz&pd_rd_wg=UKrua&pf_rd_r=Z5PHHMMST90XR9ZFYQ8V&pf_rd_p=4e1b46a8-daf9-4433-b97e-d6df97cf3699&pd_rd_i=B07C3PJQXM&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> Do not use compressed air or anything that may have a propellant.


Sweet thanks! Didn't even know these existed!


----------



## ryudoadema

jesped2 said:


> Hey man, Bombadil from the Superdepth3D discord here. Funny to see you here too. 😄
> 
> The best I get out of my 6040ub is a custom resolution of [email protected] 12bit using CRU ( Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) ), which works too for the 3D modes, either in SBS or TB/OU. Even if it's nothing major, there is always a bit of crosstalk, brightness is reduced (as in every active shutter solution) and there is a bit of eye fatigue due to active shutter glasses... but my Oculus Quest 2 is A LOT worse in all aspects, so...
> 
> HDR is reported as working in the 3D mode, but colors are weird. It needs color correction, which can be done in Reshade but it's not straightforward or automatic.


For cross-talk, check out my old post here and the one further down the page about depth settings


----------



## Grayson73

Are most of you running HDR and manually changing settings between SDR/HDR, or are most of letting the source send SDR only so that you don't have to do that?


----------



## Stereojeff

Grayson73 said:


> Are most of you running HDR and manually changing settings between SDR/HDR, or are most of letting the source send SDR only so that you don't have to do that?


Manually changing here. 

Jeff


----------



## inspector

Here is something odd and maybe someone can explain it to me. Using my Natural setting for UHD and the Panny 420, 4K is not that good. The BD looks much better. I bought a Fire TV Stick 4K and watched some of the new trailers in 4K. 

Wow, the picture was awesome, much better than any UHD BD that I own...why is that?


----------



## john hunter

Perhaps because you are using Natural for UHD when you should use either Cinema or Digital Cinema and use the Panny for tone mapping.
Am using the default settings for Dig Cinema with the Optimiser at 8.
Clearly superior to BD.
Give it a go.


----------



## inspector

Thanks, but I don't like the looks of Digital/Cinema UHD settings. I've tried every setting there is and those that have been posted here. I use Bright and Natural, depending on the UHD disc...I only own 17 of them. 

Still, I wonder if anyone can answer my original question...why is streaming 4K better looking than a 4K disc?


----------



## john hunter

But it is not.


----------



## inspector

...to me it does.


----------



## deano86

inspector said:


> ...to me it does.


Honestly, does it make sense to you that the 4k streaming looks better than the 4k disc? This sounds like an HDR issue......Is the 4K streaming titles non-HDR? And the 4K disc is HDR and is putting your projector into BT2020 mode? Have you compared the incoming signal information from both sources with the Projector info menu? Are both sources being run into your HDMI 1?


----------



## inspector

I might have not written all the info that I should have. What I meant to say is I was watching a YouTube 4K trailer, it looked sharper than one of my UHDers w/HDR thru my Panny with HDR engaged. And yes, I do use HDMI 1. 

I watched a YouTube 4K trailer for PASSENGERS and this is what the PJ showed:

8 bit 4:2:0
BT. 2020 HDR

I watched PASSENGERS 4K and here is what the PJ showed

12 bit 4:2:2
BT. 2020 HDR 

This time the disc looked sharper, but the other time the trailer looked sharper.


----------



## Bharath0224

Hello everyone, I just recently bought a used 5040ub and would love to know what are the things I should look for to make sure its working properly. I was hesitant hearing about the countless replacements some people went through, but this projector(when working properly) would be the best option for me so I decided to take the risk buying used(no warranty). I still have a 30 day return window though, so I would appreciate help in figuring out if I scored a good unit. This is my first projector so I don't even know where to start. Also, would a warranty from Squaretrade or similar service be worth it since I don't have Epson's support?


----------



## inspector

Bharath0224 said:


> Hello everyone, I just recently bought a used 5040ub and would love to know what are the things I should look for to make sure its working properly. I was hesitant hearing about the countless replacements some people went through, but this projector(when working properly) would be the best option for me so I decided to take the risk buying used(no warranty). I still have a 30 day return window though, so I would appreciate help in figuring out if I scored a good unit. This is my first projector so I don't even know where to start. Also, would a warranty from Squaretrade or similar service be worth it since I don't have Epson's support?


PM sent


----------



## Grayson73

Bharath0224 said:


> Hello everyone, I just recently bought a used 5040ub and would love to know what are the things I should look for to make sure its working properly. I was hesitant hearing about the countless replacements some people went through, but this projector(when working properly) would be the best option for me so I decided to take the risk buying used(no warranty). I still have a 30 day return window though, so I would appreciate help in figuring out if I scored a good unit. This is my first projector so I don't even know where to start. Also, would a warranty from Squaretrade or similar service be worth it since I don't have Epson's support?


The only thing I returned for was dust blobs (green balls projected onto the screen) and HDMI 1 port not working.


----------



## jesped2

Does anybody have good settings for MadVR newest beta versions for HDR to SDR tonemapping for 6040ub?

How do you people reproduce HDR video in Windows 10? just enabling HDR in Windows I see too much contrast and crushed blacks/loss of detail in shadows.


----------



## roland6465

Grayson73 said:


> The only thing I returned for was dust blobs (green balls projected onto the screen) and HDMI 1 port not working.


That's all? Epson QC is bad at best.


----------



## inspector

I will reiterate again, I use nothing other then my 2 BD (Panny/Sammy) players. For 4K, this PJ really dosen't shine for UHD discs. . ..hence the Panny.


----------



## x7007

jesped2 said:


> It was pure trial and error and patience. Just one pixel above 2128x1198 and screen goes to black or displays green garbage. 2128x1198 is the absolute top I got, which is a pretty good 10% up from 1080p for free. Doing it in CRU instead of the Nvidia Custom Resolutions allows you to maintain the 12bpc color depth.
> 
> You just have to Edit the current Extension block and add the resolution in "Detailed resolutions":
> View attachment 3109297
> 
> View attachment 3109294


Thanks!!

I really on the decision to buy the 5050 or the Benq X1300i which not released yet! I can't take the bullet because I also need the Screen for it and only was is from amazon which will cost me not a bit.

Which glasses do I need for the 5050 version? RF or DLP? would the Xpand 105 (https://www.amazon.com/XPAND-X105-RF-X1-Rechargeable-Bluetooth-Glasses/dp/B00BFO4XSA) will be the best glasses for it? or should I just get the Epson Glasses 5050? Epson US

The shop manager recommended me this screen, would that be the best for 3D and HDR?



https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-Aeon-AUHD-100-inch/dp/B0151JJ4J2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Elite%2Bfixed%2Bscreen&qid=1614881513&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1


----------



## jesped2

x7007 said:


> Thanks!!
> 
> I really on the decision to buy the 5050 or the Benq X1300i which not released yet! I can't take the bullet because I also need the Screen for it and only was is from amazon which will cost me not a bit.
> 
> Which glasses do I need for the 5050 version? RF or DLP? would the Xpand 105 (https://www.amazon.com/XPAND-X105-RF-X1-Rechargeable-Bluetooth-Glasses/dp/B00BFO4XSA) will be the best glasses for it? or should I just get the Epson Glasses 5050? Epson US
> 
> The shop manager recommended me this screen, would that be the best for 3D and HDR?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-Aeon-AUHD-100-inch/dp/B0151JJ4J2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Elite%2Bfixed%2Bscreen&qid=1614881513&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1


You need RF active glasses. I have the Epson too, which I used for many years, but I prefer the Hi-Shock ones: the https://www.amazon.com/Hi-SHOCK-Glasses-Projector-Powerlite-Rechargeable/dp/B013R9VTRS
Image quality is the same but they are a lot lighter and less bulky. More comfortable to wear. I think the Xpand are bulkier too and quality may be worse, check the reviews.

That screen looks good. Be aware that grey screens are good to get better blacks in 2D, but they're gonna make you loose even more brightness in 3D, and I know you're gonna use 3D a lot...
Better go see the different options with your own eyes at some place that does demos.


----------



## x7007

jesped2 said:


> You need RF active glasses. I have the Epson too, which I used for many years, but I prefer the Hi-Shock ones: the https://www.amazon.com/Hi-SHOCK-Glasses-Projector-Powerlite-Rechargeable/dp/B013R9VTRS
> Image quality is the same but they are a lot lighter and less bulky. More comfortable to wear. I think the Xpand are bulkier too and quality may be worse, check the reviews.
> 
> That screen looks good. Be aware that grey screens are good to get better blacks in 2D, but they're gonna make you loose even more brightness in 3D, and I know you're gonna use 3D a lot...
> Better go see the different options with your own eyes at some place that does demos.


yes I thought about the high shock, many said it has crosstalk and such, if you say it's good then it should.

I don't have any place to check the screen by my eyes, that's the big issue of why I am waiting. it's expensive and some are very hard to install mount up. so I don't want to make the wrong decision.

at least now I am sure about which glasses. the high shock people said it's very fragile but if that's the case I'll just be more careful.


----------



## pias

A couple of questions, I know this has been asked in the past but I'm assuming that the refurbished pjs are a fluid situation, having said that, how is the current refurb lotto working out, as in receiving a good unit the first time out ?

Question two, I would be sitting almost right underneath the projector and projecting to a 92" screen roughly 13.5 ft. away, I'm guessing that I could use eco mode ( correct me if I'm wrong ), would the fan noise be an issue?


----------



## deano86

pias said:


> A couple of questions, I know this has been asked in the past but I'm assuming that the refurbished pjs are a fluid situation, having said that, how is the current refurb lotto working out, as in receiving a good unit the first time out ?
> 
> Question two, I would be sitting almost right underneath the projector and projecting to a 92" screen roughly 13.5 ft. away, I'm guessing that I could use eco mode ( correct me if I'm wrong ), would the fan noise be an issue?


I recently purchased a refurbished Pro 4040 from Epson in January for $999..... and I couldn't be happier with the picture quality, convergence (after only just a few minor panel adjustments) brightness and overall uniformity! And because it was the Pro model, it came with the 3 year warranty. I checked in service mode and it only had a couple hours total runtime on it also... So, ya... for me, a home run so far! 

You should have plenty of brightness at that size and distance from screen to use ECO mode, so fan noise really shouldn't be an issue for you...


----------



## stuart628

Anyone else have a shield and can check on their 4040,5040 or 6040 something for me?

I have a shield set to 4K 24hz and went to play justice league and the colors are green and purple…set to 4K 60hz everything is fine…I believe 4K 24hz is the only way to get hdr on the shield correct…
Also please try to recreate that if you can let me know


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## camtah

stuart628 said:


> Anyone else have a shield and can check on their 4040,5040 or 6040 something for me?
> 
> I have a shield set to 4K 24hz and went to play justice league and the colors are green and purple…set to 4K 60hz everything is fine…I believe 4K 24hz is the only way to get hdr on the shield correct…
> Also please try to recreate that if you can let me know
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 I have a Shield 2015 and a 6040. I will check later today, but the Shield can also do 1080 w/ HDR.


----------



## stuart628

Thank you, I was trying to stick with 4k and hdr hence the setting...I noticed something else too the Dolby atmos showed up as Dolby atmos/d+ on my onkyo...but when I play justice league it shows up as Dolby atmos only...I must have some settings messed up somewhere with this shield (I didnt change anything but custom display to 4k 24hz hdr10 ready) Can someone give me the best settings to use on the shield? Also any help with justice league would be great..that i really making me scratch my head and we have another movie night with Kong Vs Godzilla coming up and I Dont want another oh hey your equipment isnt working night lol...All other 4k movies i have played have worked great!


----------



## b_scott

Grayson73 said:


> Are most of you running HDR and manually changing settings between SDR/HDR, or are most of letting the source send SDR only so that you don't have to do that?


manually changing. I have SDR settings and HDR settings. My Harmony has a routine set to certain buttons so it does it automatically with one button press.


----------



## camtah

OK Here are the results of my quick test this morning on Justice League. All settings on Auto

1) I saw no color shifts or differences in any format
2) ATMOS was available on each format I tried (1080, 4k, etc)
3) [email protected] showed BTR.709 w/HDR..hmmm
3) [email protected] showed BTR.709 w/ HDR..hmmm
4) [email protected] showed BT2020 w/HDR
5) [email protected],94 showed BT2020 w/HDR


----------



## b_scott

does anyone else's 5040ub randomly take forever turning on - it will turn on its fans full blast and the light blinks, for a good 2-3 minutes before it'll show a picture. It's almost like it's taking a moment to blow dust out or something.


----------



## Tibor Makai

Maybe it did not shut down properly before? Power outage?!


----------



## deano86

b_scott said:


> does anyone else's 5040ub randomly take forever turning on - it will turn on its fans full blast and the light blinks, for a good 2-3 minutes before it'll show a picture. It's almost like it's taking a moment to blow dust out or something.


Is this an early symptom of the possible power supply defect? I am not totally familiar with the specifics of that problem though....Or maybe an issue with your lamp assy igniting like it is supposed to?


----------



## camtah

My 6040 has done this a few times in the past year. If I start looking for it it doesn't do it. I use a harmony remote to start and shut down the my HT system. Not sure if it is by design, but I think I will start paying more attention to it and making a note of it


----------



## b_scott

Tibor Makai said:


> Maybe it did not shut down properly before? Power outage?!


no, it always shuts down OK. And it's on a battery backup. this happens regularly.


----------



## by96

b_scott said:


> does anyone else's 5040ub randomly take forever turning on - it will turn on its fans full blast and the light blinks, for a good 2-3 minutes before it'll show a picture. It's almost like it's taking a moment to blow dust out or something.


I only have that happen if I shutdown the projector and then turn it back on within minute or two. The second time, it takes a lot longer to warm up. Not sure why.


----------



## b_scott

camtah said:


> My 6040 has done this a few times in the past year. If I start looking for it it doesn't do it. I use a harmony remote to start and shut down the my HT system. Not sure if it is by design, but I think I will start paying more attention to it and making a note of it


I also use a Harmony remote, FYI


----------



## deano86

b_scott said:


> no, it always shuts down OK. And it's on a battery backup. this happens regularly.


How many hours on your bulb assy? You may want to call Epson and describe your symptoms and see what they say.. I wonder if the ignitor in the bulb assy or ignitor circuit has a problem and is struggling to get to your bulb lit... so depending on what Epson says, you may want to acquire a spare bulb in case this one has a problem...


----------



## b_scott

deano86 said:


> How many hours on your bulb assy? You may want to call Epson and describe your symptoms and see what they say.. I wonder if the ignitor in the bulb assy or ignitor circuit has a problem and is struggling to get to your bulb lit... so depending on what Epson says, you may want to acquire a spare bulb in case this one has a problem...


It's a new bulb in a refurb that I got in Oct, that is a replacement of another refurb - both did this.


----------



## deano86

b_scott said:


> It's a new bulb in a refurb that I got in Oct, that is a replacement of another refurb - both did this.


By chance, could your battery backup be limiting available startup current to your projector... Unlikely, I would think, but I would try bypassing it just to see... Does your UPS beep at all when you power on?


----------



## b_scott

deano86 said:


> By chance, could your battery backup be limiting available startup current to your projector... Unlikely, I would think, but I would try bypassing it just to see... Does your UPS beep at all when you power on?


I doubt it, I've never heard of that. My battery backup is always on. I have dual Cyberpower 1500VA's


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> does anyone else's 5040ub randomly take forever turning on - it will turn on its fans full blast and the light blinks, for a good 2-3 minutes before it'll show a picture. It's almost like it's taking a moment to blow dust out or something.


I see this occasionally with my 6030UB. Also remember reading about this on this forum. There doesn’t seem to be any other issues.


----------



## inspector

Something is wrong. My 6040 comes on almost immediately.


----------



## avtoronto

My original new one did this intermittently and my replacement model also does it.


----------



## b_scott

Thanks all! I feel better now. And @inspector, it only happens occasionally. Plus, it does turn on, it just doesn't start throwing a picture until the fans stop blowing high speed. I feel like it might just be a random check on dust in the system?


----------



## roland6465

b_scott said:


> does anyone else's 5040ub randomly take forever turning on - it will turn on its fans full blast and the light blinks, for a good 2-3 minutes before it'll show a picture. It's almost like it's taking a moment to blow dust out or something.


Though Epson says it's "normal", my experience was that it was the first symptom of a coming power failure.


----------



## deano86

b_scott said:


> Thanks all! I feel better now. And @inspector, it only happens occasionally. Plus, it does turn on, it just doesn't start throwing a picture until the fans stop blowing high speed. I feel like it might just be a random check on dust in the system?


There is no "blowing out dust" procedure... IMO, the more the fans are on "high", the greater the chance that the projector will pull in a piece of dust past the filter...I believe the fans kick into high because it is putting extra power into the lamp circuit to get it to light. I doubt this is normal in spite of what Epson is saying when customers call in and report this symptom... unless there is some sort of intermittent varience in their bulbs when they are initially lit up??


----------



## Grayson73

Mine does it intermittently as well. Sometimes it will power off without showing an image and I power it on again, and it's fine.


----------



## sleepingatsea

I've been getting this power on issue recently too. Just does high power fan then nothing. Blue light blinks I think. Then have to pull out power cord and power on again. Wierd. 

Last night I tried to change picture settings with the remote and the menu button wouldn't work. Some buttons were working, like Pattern, exit but no others. This was powered on by Harmony.

Have replaced batteries on the remote and turned it on again now and same thing. After a while the Menu button brought the menu up and I got a delayed down button movement but then nothing. 

Any ideas? I've wiped the IR window down on the projector and cleaned up the remote. 


Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## WildThing

Did anybody sucessfully cleaned the LCD panels to get rid of dust blob or if it's mission impossible? There is a good teardown video to help. I won't do it by myself but I wonder if the benefits are greater than the risks
Teardown video

I have 2 disturbing dust blob on the top right of the image. They are greatly exagerated on that picture because I focused the image to see them. But I definitely see them in dark scenes. I have a dual screen setup so when I watch a 2.35:1 movie, the top one is outside the image, it gets on my 16:9 electric screen case. So most of the times I see only one but because of that I want a new projector. If it's not cleaned, it will be harder to sell anyway.

So, worth the risk or not? Chances of solving the problem completly vs chance of getting the problem wrost?


----------



## jbnpaul

I am now curious to see if they put it all back together after the tear down. 

That seems pretty much an impossible task for me. The tear down is doable for me. But would be impossible for me to put it back together. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## blazin912

Just got my PS5.. verdict still to go 4k SDR vs 1080pHDR? Any latest and greatest picture settings to try? Thanks all..


----------



## Mad Pup

Sorry if this has been addressed before but this is such a huge thread...

Why does the 5040UB get such a beating in Amazon reviews? Looks like 25% of buyers give it 1 star which is not normal for a projector of this class.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Mad Pup said:


> Sorry if this has been addressed before but this is such a huge thread...
> 
> Why does the 5040UB get such a beating in Amazon reviews? Looks like 25% of buyers give it 1 star which is not normal for a projector of this class.


Did you look at the reviews? It’s all about the power supply issue.


----------



## Mad Pup

PixelPusher15 said:


> Did you look at the reviews? It’s all about the power supply issue.


Yeah, I see that now. So what is the word on the street about buying a used 5040?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Mad Pup said:


> Yeah, I see that now. So what is the word on the street about buying a used 5040?


It’s very risky. I think the general consensus is that unless it is extremely cheap, it’s worth whatever more you need to pay to get one with a warranty when Epson is selling the refurbs. People in this thread have gotten Epson to fix a bad power supply up to a year out of warranty. You want that protection


----------



## pias

PixelPusher15 said:


> It’s very risky. I think the general consensus is that unless it is extremely cheap, it’s worth whatever more you need to pay to get one with a warranty when Epson is selling the refurbs. People in this thread have gotten Epson to fix a bad power supply up to a year out of warranty. You want that protection


Do you think this applies to the 6040 also? Thanks for your input.


----------



## PixelPusher15

pias said:


> Do you think this applies to the 6040 also? Thanks for your input.


It applies to the 4000/4040/5040/6040. All have the same power supply issue. I personally wouldn’t buy any of them without at least a 2 year Epson backed warranty.


----------



## bigdad56

I've had 


deano86 said:


> Is this an early symptom of the possible power supply defect? I am not totally familiar with the specifics of that problem though....Or maybe an issue with your lamp assy igniting like it is supposed to?


I've had this issue on several occasions. Maybe once out of every 10 times I turn it on. Also twice it has just sat there and I had to turn it off and then turn it back on and it worked fine. I purchased a refurb June of last year.


----------



## amarkow

A vertical line just appeared on the left side (not the edge) of my picture. It appears to be a single color, although it varies depending on the background of the image. I'm seeing it with different inputs. Any ideas on what's going on. My PJ is three-four years old and I've never had a problem with it.


----------



## amarkow

Well, the problem disappeared when I re-started the projector. But I'm concerned that this line is a harbinger of a problem or problems to come. I thought it might be an issue with one of the LCD panels. Again, any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## Terry Danks

amarkow said:


> Well, the problem disappeared when I re-started the projector. But I'm concerned that this line is a harbinger of a problem or problems to come. I thought it might be an issue with one of the LCD panels. Again, any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.


I am having the same problem with my 6-1/2 year old 5030UB. The line, green in my case, comes and goes.


----------



## Terry Danks

PixelPusher15 said:


> It applies to the 4000/4040/5040/6040. All have the same power supply issue. I personally wouldn’t buy any of them without at least a 2 year Epson backed warranty.


Wow! That covers a lot of ground! I am nursing a 6-1/2 year old 5030UB. This post would suggest Epsons are a pretty poor choice these days?


----------



## amarkow

Mine is coming and going as well. Very annoying. What's the -- a new power supply from Epson? What's the cost? Is it worth doing?


----------



## djmattyb

b_scott said:


> does anyone else's 5040ub randomly take forever turning on - it will turn on its fans full blast and the light blinks, for a good 2-3 minutes before it'll show a picture. It's almost like it's taking a moment to blow dust out or something.


Yes, mine done this quite often. I don't know why. People have speculated that its a problem with the firmware and that the fan runs like that at the wrong time, that is should be doing it before shutdown. Other speculated that it's running full blast to remove dust from the system. Whatever the reason, know you're not alone. It's happening to some of us out there. I have not updated to the latest firmware yet either, fyi. I may consider doing that just to see if that fixes the problem. I'll check the firmware release notes to see if it mentions anything about it.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Terry Danks said:


> Wow! That covers a lot of ground! I am nursing a 6-1/2 year old 5030UB. This post would suggest Epsons are a pretty poor choice these days?


It’s really just that generation that had that large of an issue. Epson apparently has an improved power supply that fixes this completely. But, when buying a refurb you don’t know if you’re getting one that had its power supply fixed or not. It could have been refurbished for another reason. That’s why I say I wouldn’t buy one without a warranty. Some around here are more confident in buying one with this risk than others. The 4000 is going for under a grand from Electronics Express with a 2 year warranty. That’s cheap enough for the risk to my tastes. $1500.....ehhh, for me I chose not to, but I was close.


----------



## deano86

djmattyb said:


> Yes, mine done this quite often. I don't know why. People have speculated that its a problem with the firmware and that the fan runs like that at the wrong time, that is should be doing it before shutdown. Other speculated that it's running full blast to remove dust from the system. Whatever the reason, know you're not alone. It's happening to some of us out there. I have not updated to the latest firmware yet either, fyi. I may consider doing that just to see if that fixes the problem. I'll check the firmware release notes to see if it mentions anything about it.


How can Epson track down or fix any problem if you don't report it to them? If your projector is not working correctly, the sooner you at least report it, the better.. .then there is a record of it in your behalf and Epson can better track the performance of their projectors and what is happening to them in the longer term. And coming from a Panasonic where the end user wasn't really allowed to update firmware unless you sent it in, the Epson is breath of fresh air in allowing us end users to update improvements to the projectors ourselves. Why wouldn't you update it?


----------



## inspector

When I first bought my 6040 in 2017, I had a problem with ghosting/crosstalk in 3D. Epson was kind enough to send me a brand new one with an extra lamp. Turned out it was in the settings, which most of us eliminated with the proper ones.

I have over 2700 hours on the original lamp (with 2 spares) and it's still going strong. Last month I started getting a very, very, very faint green blob visible bottom left border when playing a 2.35:1 movie. You can barely see it during dark scenes and it disappears during lighted scenes. 1.85:1 movies it's not there...missed the bullet on that one.

So, in conclusion I am very satisfied with my PJ. This 6040 replaced my Epson 9500 which I had for 6 years.

If I had the money, I'd go from my 110" screen to a 130" and change over to a higher end JVC that does 4K and of course 3D.


----------



## INANE

I'm about to pull the trigger on either the 5040 or 5050 but I'm really torn. Both new is about $1000 difference but sounds like if I went with a 5040 I'd have to also get a HD Fury which makes the difference $800. I'm a little weary of the power supply issues, the 4K 30hz issues with streaming services and dropping that much money on something that launched in late 2016. But the 5050 doesn't seem to be a large upgrade from it. I guess I could just go with the 5040 and hope if it dies they just sent me a 5050 to replace it.


----------



## BillEBoy

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy.


Please send setting, and thank you

-Bill


----------



## inspector

BillEBoy said:


> Please send setting, and thank you
> 
> -Bill


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## allensh

Hello, I would be also interested by your settings please.
thank you!


----------



## camtah

INANE said:


> I'm about to pull the trigger on either the 5040 or 5050 but I'm really torn. Both new is about $1000 difference but sounds like if I went with a 5040 I'd have to also get a HD Fury which makes the difference $800. I'm a little weary of the power supply issues, the 4K 30hz issues with streaming services and dropping that much money on something that launched in late 2016. But the 5050 doesn't seem to be a large upgrade from it. I guess I could just go with the 5040 and hope if it dies they just sent me a 5050 to replace it.


 I went thru the same thought process before I settled on a refurbed 6040. I rarely game on my HT and my sources consist of a 2105 Shield and Xbox One X as my DVD player. After many hours of tweaking and muttering to myself about HDR, 30 vs 60 fps, etc, I realized that that for what I paid, the picture is still outstanding. I deal with HDR when I have to, but I now just leave my sources on [email protected] (59.94) and Bright Cinema and enjoy the show. I though about the going the Fury route as well, but decided to save the $$$ for a proper 4K flame thrower in the future.


----------



## inspector

allensh said:


> Hello, I would be also interested by your settings please.
> thank you!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## inspector

PM sent...enjoy.


----------



## inspector

allensh said:


> Hello, I would be also interested by your settings please.
> thank you!


PM sent, enjoy!


----------



## blazin912

What are these magical settings? I'll take them 🤷‍♂️


----------



## inspector

blazin912 said:


> What are these magical settings? I'll take them 🤷‍♂️


PM sent.


----------



## Bharath0224

INANE said:


> I'm about to pull the trigger on either the 5040 or 5050 but I'm really torn. Both new is about $1000 difference but sounds like if I went with a 5040 I'd have to also get a HD Fury which makes the difference $800. I'm a little weary of the power supply issues, the 4K 30hz issues with streaming services and dropping that much money on something that launched in late 2016. But the 5050 doesn't seem to be a large upgrade from it. I guess I could just go with the 5040 and hope if it dies they just sent me a 5050 to replace it.


I got my refurb just a couple weeks ago and I really don't see the need for the hd fury. Only HDR is limited 24fps. I don't game in HDR and movies are only 24fps. It might be a problem with certain streaming services, but I haven't had any trouble with my shield tv. It certainly is nice to have the option for high fps HDR but outside of certain games, there isn't any need for it.


----------



## amarkow

amarkow said:


> Well, the problem disappeared when I re-started the projector. But I'm concerned that this line is a harbinger of a problem or problems to come. I thought it might be an issue with one of the LCD panels. Again, any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.


Just to update anyone interested, when the line returned I spoke to Epson for a second time and discussed in more details when it occurred (after about two hours of viewing). Tech suggested it might be heath build-up and it would help to clean the air filter in the front of the unit. I did so. It was pretty dirty. So far, so good. I've seen the line once for a brief period, after which it disappeared. For the most part, it's gone. Hoping for the best.


----------



## sbronf

Hi guys, I'm new, let me introduce myself: my name is Adriano, I'm from Naples in Italy and I own an epson tw7300 (5040ub). I have a problem with the connection with the ps5 and I wanted to expose it: in practice, if I connect the ps5 to the projector, the console makes me set only 4k no hdr, or 1080p with hdr. 4k with hdr says it is not supported. with the tv lg oled b7v this problem does not happen. It's not the cable, I can tell you right away ... thanks also will want to give me a hand!


----------



## jordanfff

sbronf said:


> Hi guys, I'm new, let me introduce myself: my name is Adriano, I'm from Naples in Italy and I own an epson tw7300 (5040ub). I have a problem with the connection with the ps5 and I wanted to expose it: in practice, if I connect the ps5 to the projector, the console makes me set only 4k no hdr, or 1080p with hdr. 4k with hdr says it is not supported. with the tv lg oled b7v this problem does not happen. It's not the cable, I can tell you right away ... thanks also will want to give me a hand!


 not with 60 frames per second,at that rate you can either have 4K(no HDR) or 1080p HDR.Projector limitations


----------



## sbronf

Ok thanks, is there no way to force the [email protected] with hdr? It should works...


----------



## jordanfff

sbronf said:


> Ok thanks, is there no way to force the [email protected] with hdr? It should works...


Yes there is in the Oppo 203,but for other devices don't know,and I think you can have 60fps but only with 8 bit,and I think others use the HDfury devices to get around this problem


----------



## strafejumper

for me 5050 is double price of 5040 refurb
i'm a little skeptical of "HDR" especially on a projector - seems even TVs struggle for decent HDR
I think devices ruin the mid ranges and make the colors bad in order to try to provide a very high brightness necessary to be rated for "HDR" -
Some prefer SDR mode to HDR mode

The 30hz sounds scary to me though because I use gaming montiors of 144hz and 240hz and the motion is so good


----------



## rauldukehi

I just had my Epson 5040ube devolope a big yellow blotch on about 20% of the screen has anyone run into this issue before (see photo below) 
Thanks in advance
R


----------



## Tweakophyte

b_scott said:


> does anyone else's 5040ub randomly take forever turning on - it will turn on its fans full blast and the light blinks, for a good 2-3 minutes before it'll show a picture. It's almost like it's taking a moment to blow dust out or something.


I have had a similar issue for several months. Sometimes it strikes right up and other times it takes about a minute. One time it even failed to start, and I had to hit the power again, but that was just one time and several months ago.

I thought maybe it was a striking issue with the lamp, which should not have too many hours on it. I will check.

For those that had a PS issue, how did this indicate impending failure? Mine is a new (not refurb) unit.

Thx


----------



## BillyBarcode`

rauldukehi said:


> I just had my Epson 5040ube develop a big yellow blotch on about 20% of the screen has anyone run into this issue before (see photo below)
> Thanks in advance
> R
> View attachment 3123608


I had this happen on another Epson projector just before I bought my 5040UB. Turned out it was an insect that had somehow gotten into the light path (I think it was the Blue panel). Once the foreign object was removed, everything was fine and the yellow "shadow" went away. It was a very small fly, like a fruit fly. A word of caution though....don't blow compressed air into the light path. I'd suggest calling Epson, or if the warranty is over, you'll have to take it to a repair facility. Good luck.


----------



## mjmediaman

Just got a really good deal on a panasonic ub420 and am wondering if someone could share their setting for both the Epson and panasonic for hdr content.

Also would it be better to do hdr to sdr via the panasonic or use hdr with optimizer? 

I haven't received the player yet so this is all new to me.


----------



## inspector

mjmediaman said:


> Just got a really good deal on a panasonic ub420 and am wondering if someone could share their setting for both the Epson and panasonic for hdr content.
> 
> Also would it be better to do hdr to sdr via the panasonic or use hdr with optimizer?
> 
> I haven't received the player yet so this is all new to me.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Pearcebud

Hi everyone. Can someone inbox me their 5040ub picture settings please  id love to try them out.


----------



## inspector

Pearcebud said:


> Hi everyone. Can someone inbox me their 5040ub picture settings please  id love to try them out.


PM sent...enjoy!


----------



## TXSTYLE

Greetings. Two concerns/questions:

I'm noticing an ever so slight pinkish area in the upper right hand side of image. It's only noticeable on white or very light backgrounds. It's @ one third across the screen top and @ one in thick. 
Any settings to correct this? I've tried all inputs and it's the same. 

I also recently downloaded the latest firmware version directly from Epson website. I followed the exact steps as I've previously used when I updated to v. 111. But it just piers on and right off. Finally I called Epson. They said that the latest version is "only for European models" and that my current version is the highest. 

Can anyone here confirm this? And what exactly does this latest European version do? 

Thanks, Marcus


----------



## TXSTYLE

Greetings. Two concerns/questions:

I'm noticing an ever so slight pinkish area in the upper right hand side of image. It's only noticeable on white or very light backgrounds. It's @ one third across the screen top and @ one in thick.
Any settings to correct this? I've tried all inputs and it's the same.


Thanks, Marcus


----------



## Bengali

Hi,

I was hoping you could help me out with a few questions for the 6040ub.

When you go to the Menu screen options, is the brightness supposed to Fade in and out?

How can you check what FW version is installed? The info screen does not seem to display this.

I have an older Sony UBP-X800 4K Blu Ray Player. It is set for 1080P with no up sampling. I tried a Blu Ray Disc Planet Earth and also Netflix 4K Ultra streaming. Both appear sharper when 4K Image Enhancement is turned off and Preset 4 is used. I thought the 4K E shift would make things sharper?

I have not read up all on the options. What are optimal settings for a sharper image?

When you Adjust focus, do you adjust for the Text Overlay or the image from the source?

For now, I am projecting at 16:9 120" screen. I will be switching to 2.35:1 125" screen in a few weeks.

Thank you


----------



## john hunter

Why are you not using the upscaling in your player.
Set it to 4k and let the Epson do its magic.
I presume it has that mode.
Focus can use what ever image you want.
The PJ has a grid built in with markings for 16:9 and Scope.
You should be able to check the firmware in the information window.


----------



## Bengali

So set to upsample to 4K on my Sony blu ray player and then turn on 4K E-shift?

The menu screen going dark to light is normal?


----------



## TXSTYLE

TXSTYLE said:


> Greetings.
> 
> I'm noticing an ever so slight pinkish area in the upper right hand side of image. It's only noticeable on white or very light backgrounds. It's @ one third across the screen top and @ one in thick.
> Any settings to correct this? I've tried all inputs and it's the same.
> 
> 
> Thanks, Marcus


ANYONE????


----------



## Bengali

I’m new to this unit. Have you tried Panel Alignment?


----------



## jadcru

hello everyone. can someone also inbox me their 5040ub picture settings. i have been using the default settings since i've owned this projector. thank you!


----------



## inspector

jadcru said:


> hello everyone. can someone also inbox me their 5040ub picture settings. i have been using the default settings since i've owned this projector. thank you!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## john hunter

Bengali said:


> So set to upsample to 4K on my Sony blu ray player and then turn on 4K E-shift?
> 
> The menu screen going dark to light is normal?


I don't have the Sony so can't give accurate directions.
However you need to set to output 4k to the PJ.
If you insert 4k disc ,it may do it automatically.
On the PJ set it to Digital Cinema and it will accept a 4k stream and project it.
Blue Planet is a great disc to show off 4k so you should get a great image.
Use Natural setting for Blu Ray.
If you have the auto iris set to max, you may notice some fluctuation on menus but not usually noticeable on movies. 
I trust this helps.


----------



## mjmediaman

I recently acquired a new to me 6040ub, I am having an issue with what I'm assuming is a handshake issue. This is my first 4k projector so I ran a 25ft hdmi 18gb cable, I am getting intermittent static and glitches when going 4k. I have a panasonic ub420. I'm wondering if the cables running from the player to the receiver to the wall could be adding too much length causing the issues? I should also mention those cables are just branded "high speed" not sure if they're 4k certified. 

I have an order of 1ft certified 4k cables coming in hopes that this remedies my situation.

If anyone has any pointers or advice I'd appreciate the input.


----------



## Bengali

john hunter said:


> I don't have the Sony so can't give accurate directions.
> However you need to set to output 4k to the PJ.
> If you insert 4k disc ,it may do it automatically.
> On the PJ set it to Digital Cinema and it will accept a 4k stream and project it.
> Blue Planet is a great disc to show off 4k so you should get a great image.
> Use Natural setting for Blu Ray.
> If you have the auto iris set to max, you may notice some fluctuation on menus but not usually noticeable on movies.
> I trust this helps.


Yes, very helpful. Much appreciated.


----------



## Bengali

mjmediaman said:


> I recently acquired a new to me 6040ub, I am having an issue with what I'm assuming is a handshake issue. This is my first 4k projector so I ran a 25ft hdmi 18gb cable, I am getting intermittent static and glitches when going 4k. I have a panasonic ub420. I'm wondering if the cables running from the player to the receiver to the wall could be adding too much length causing the issues? I should also mention those cables are just branded "high speed" not sure if they're 4k certified.
> 
> I have an order of 1ft certified 4k cables coming in hopes that this remedies my situation.
> 
> If anyone has any pointers or advice I'd appreciate the input.


Yes, your method is correct. Try with shorter cable first to rule out projector or source player issue. I have ran 35 feet HDMI cable before, it has a built in chip(active) but that was for 1080P. Monoprice or Amazon should have one for 4K.
Could be just not high enough BW and too much loss with your current cable.

Everyone’s setup will vary. I prefer putting equipment(AVR) and source player near the projector for shorter run HDMI and longer run speaker cables. Whatever works for you.


----------



## Bengali

I switch my Sony UBP-X800 output display from 1080P to 4K. The 4K Enhancement on the Epson is greyed out. The image looks very blurry. It only looks sharp when I switch to Image Preset 3 or 4. Just curious if this is normal or not.


----------



## john hunter

A quick look at the Sony instructions seem to indicate you should use Auto 2 output. 
Check you have the HDMI cable into the right input on the PJ.
Have no idea why you are having such trouble.
If in doubt, using Auto often helps.


----------



## Bengali

john hunter said:


> A quick look at the Sony instructions seem to indicate you should use Auto 2 output.
> Check you have the HDMI cable into the right input on the PJ.
> Have no idea why you are having such trouble.
> If in doubt, using Auto often helps.


Thanks.

Mainly not knowing what is normal behavior for this unit. I got the hang of it now.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

So my warranty ran out about 6 months ago on my 5040UB and out of nowhere I got the dreaded dust blobs.. It was only two and barely noticeable but as we all know (once seen it cant be unseen lol)

I tried the recommendations listed here (high-speed high-altitude mode) and nothing worked. It was driving me nuts so I said screw it..

Unscrewed 10 screws on the bottom took the lamp assembly case off, one screw also under there, one screw on the side "near the lens controls under the flap”, a few screws on the back and boom I was able to remove the top of the projector.










Please note: there are three ribbon cables in the center of the board (they say red, green, blue) those are attached to the LCD's this is where the blobs are (not on the lens)

I took a vacuum and cleaned up around those cables as much as I could first.. Then lifted the projector so that it was vertical once vertical I used canned air (being sure to keep the can level and not tilting it, as you definitely do not want liquid spray coming out). Took the straw and put it in the slots under the ribbon cables not far just barely beyond the ribbon cable as you don't want to actually touch the LCD's. taking it easy I did very short bursts spraying the air in each one being sure not the let the can get to cold either. You want to take your time here and be as careful as possible. Once I did that I again used my vacuum to suck up and dust I cleared. Once that was done I put it back together, rehung the projector and crossed my fingers and what do you know it was fixed! 

Most of the guide was taken from a post over at avform so I want to be sure to credit him.

If you plan to try this you do so at your own risk, I take not responsibility but honestly it was a pretty easy fix.


----------



## Thayne Jenkins

inspector said:


> PM sent...enjoy!


Inspector, I would appreciate a PM with your settings for the 5040 and the 420. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Thayne Jenkins

djmattyb said:


> Yes, mine done this quite often. I don't know why. People have speculated that its a problem with the firmware and that the fan runs like that at the wrong time, that is should be doing it before shutdown. Other speculated that it's running full blast to remove dust from the system. Whatever the reason, know you're not alone. It's happening to some of us out there. I have not updated to the latest firmware yet either, fyi. I may consider doing that just to see if that fixes the problem. I'll check the firmware release notes to see if it mentions anything about it.


My 5040 has this issue if high fan speed and slow start up from time to time. Sometimes it results in an auto iris issue and I have to pull the power cord and then reconnect. It solves the issue.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Is anyone using a Philips BDP7502 UHD player with a 4000/4040/5040ub/6040ub?

I'm currently unable to get 4K24 HDR10 output from the BDP7502 playing UHD discs, only 1080p60 HDR10 4:2:2 regardless of settings for resolution, color space, HDR type, or 24p mode. I had no issue getting proper 4K24 HDR10 from the Sony X800 or Panasonic UB420 and assumed it would work fine with the BDP7502, but it is not. Any ideas/guidance on settings to get proper 4K24 HDR10 output for UHD discs?


----------



## inspector

Thayne Jenkins said:


> Inspector, I would appreciate a PM with your settings for the 5040 and the 420. Thanks in advance.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## roland6465

Thayne Jenkins said:


> My 5040 has this issue if high fan speed and slow start up from time to time. Sometimes it results in an auto iris issue and I have to pull the power cord and then reconnect. It solves the issue.


Is your 5040 an older model or refurb? Two of my 5 6040s did this a couple of hundred hours before the power supply crapped out.


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

Stephen Hopkins said:


> Is anyone using a Philips BDP7502 UHD player with a 4000/4040/5040ub/6040ub?
> 
> I'm currently unable to get 4K24 HDR10 output from the BDP7502 playing UHD discs, only 1080p60 HDR10 4:2:2 regardless of settings for resolution, color space, HDR type, or 24p mode. I had no issue getting proper 4K24 HDR10 from the Sony X800 or Panasonic UB420 and assumed it would work fine with the BDP7502, but it is not. Any ideas/guidance on settings to get proper 4K24 HDR10 output for UHD discs?


To update on the above issue... it's only Dolby Vision discs that improperly revert to 1080p60 HDR. I've tested 23 discs and 17x HDR10 disc plays correctly at 4K24 HDR10 4:2:2, while 6x Dolby Vision discs incorrectly output as 1080p60 HDR10 4:2:2. This includes the HDR10 version of The Last Jedi (from The Skywalker Saga boxset) playing correctly while the Dolby Vision version (plain individual retail release) plays incorrectly. 

This occurs regardless of if I select "Dolby Vision" or "Auto" in the player's setup menu. 

Anyone have any ideas if and how this can be corrected?


----------



## deano86

Stephen Hopkins said:


> To update on the above issue... it's only Dolby Vision discs that improperly revert to 1080p60 HDR. I've tested 23 discs and 17x HDR10 disc plays correctly at 4K24 HDR10 4:2:2, while 6x Dolby Vision discs incorrectly output as 1080p60 HDR10 4:2:2. This includes the HDR10 version of The Last Jedi (from The Skywalker Saga boxset) playing correctly while the Dolby Vision version (plain individual retail release) plays incorrectly.
> 
> This occurs regardless of if I select "Dolby Vision" or "Auto" in the player's setup menu.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas if and how this can be corrected?


So, I am confused... you say that you had no problem playing these titles properly with your prior Sony and Panasonic blu ray players, but now you have this problem with this current Philips player? And yet this is a problem that needs to be corrected on your Epson projector? It would seem to me that you have already identified the culprit....


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

deano86 said:


> So, I am confused... you say that you had no problem playing these titles properly with your prior Sony and Panasonic blu ray players, but now you have this problem with this current Philips player? And yet this is a problem that needs to be corrected on your Epson projector? It would seem to me that you have already identified the culprit....


I don't think the projector is necessarily the problem, but I do think it's a factor (namely the 10gbps HDMI limitation and how the player interacts with it, seemingly incorrectly)... therefore getting feedback from others who have used this particular, or similar, combination of player and 10gbps limited Epson projector is a logical step in the troubleshooting process. With this thread running 1037 pages and the thread for the player running 40 pages, it also seems logical that the question will be seen by more eyes here than there. 

But thanks for your help...


----------



## Justin_Rogers

So after years of just using 3DLUTS in madvr I decided to try my hand at calibration on my Epson 5040UB for playback on my Apple TV and Shield TV. I guess I got a little jelly of the people being able to use their phones to calibrate TV's on the apple tv but not me with my projector lol.

I had two goals.

1. Minimal changes to Natural (which is already really close to REC 709) that will be used for both SDR and HDR on those devices. This is for streaming so perfect HDR is not needed here I have MadVR for perfection on movies. I will just rely on Epson's HDR LUT (Auto Bright) for HDR using the same settings.

2. Use medium power for the lamp (don’t want the noise or lamp life from high)

My current lamp only has about 700 hours on it atm and I am in a completely light controlled room with a silver ticket matte white screen.

I am no professional calibration technician and am just learning how to do this, so please be kind . I used a HCFR with a i1 DisplayPro colormeter and have my calibration set to REC 709 BT.1886

I have included screenshots of my results from HCFR for those interested















Settings are pretty minimal and are as follows.

Color Mode - Natural
Brightness - 53
Contrast - 52
Color Saturation - 51
Tint - 50
Sharpness
5,5,5
Color temp
Color temp - 6500K
Skin tone - 4
Customized
Offset - R-49, G-50, B-50
Gain - R-50, G-50, B35
Advanced
Gamma - 0
RGBCYM
R-50,50,50
G-50,50,50
B-50,50.46
C-50,50,50
M-50,50,47
Super White - off
Lens Iris - 0
Power consumption - medium
Auto Iris - High Speed


----------



## Noknowhow

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Please PM me as well?
Would be greatly appreciated


----------



## wpbpete

Send me the pm too @inspector, thank you


----------



## inspector

Noknowhow said:


> Please PM me as well?
> Would be greatly appreciated


PM sent.


----------



## inspector

wpbpete said:


> Send me the pm too @inspector, thank you


PM sent.


----------



## waynebruce

Having problems with 5040ub turning on -sometimes it turns on within 15 seconds, other time it idles for about 2 minutes then red lamp turns on and it never lights up. I have to turn projector off and on on rear, then it usually works fine. I have replaced bulb. would appreciate any advice thanks


----------



## Juan Luis

Send me the pm too @inspector, thank you


----------



## Boldlygo

waynebruce said:


> Having problems with 5040ub turning on -sometimes it turns on within 15 seconds, other time it idles for about 2 minutes then red lamp turns on and it never lights up. I have to turn projector off and on on rear, then it usually works fine. I have replaced bulb. would appreciate any advice thanks


Have the same issue on my 6040ub


----------



## inspector

Juan Luis said:


> Send me the pm too @inspector, thank you


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Grayson73

Justin_Rogers said:


> So after years of just using 3DLUTS in madvr I decided to try my hand at calibration on my Epson 5040UB for playback on my Apple TV and Shield TV. I guess I got a little jelly of the people being able to use their phones to calibrate TV's on the apple tv but not me with my projector lol.
> 
> I had two goals.
> 
> 1. Minimal changes to Natural (which is already really close to REC 709) that will be used for both SDR and HDR on those devices. This is for streaming so perfect HDR is not needed here I have MadVR for perfection on movies. I will just rely on Epson's HDR LUT (Auto Bright) for HDR using the same settings.
> 
> 2. Use medium power for the lamp (don’t want the noise or lamp life from high)
> 
> My current lamp only has about 700 hours on it atm and I am in a completely light controlled room with a silver ticket matte white screen.
> 
> I am no professional calibration technician and am just learning how to do this, so please be kind . I used a HCFR with a i1 DisplayPro colormeter and have my calibration set to REC 709 BT.1886
> 
> I have included screenshots of my results from HCFR for those interested
> 
> View attachment 3134014
> View attachment 3134015
> 
> 
> Settings are pretty minimal and are as follows.
> 
> Color Mode - Natural
> Brightness - 53
> Contrast - 52
> Color Saturation - 51
> Tint - 50
> Sharpness
> 5,5,5
> Color temp
> Color temp - 6500K
> Skin tone - 4
> Customized
> Offset - R-49, G-50, B-50
> Gain - R-50, G-50, B35
> Advanced
> Gamma - 0
> RGBCYM
> R-50,50,50
> G-50,50,50
> B-50,50.46
> C-50,50,50
> M-50,50,47
> Super White - off
> Lens Iris - 0
> Power consumption - medium
> Auto Iris - High Speed


How do you enable Epson's HDR LUT (Auto Bright)? It would be great to not have to load settings every time I switch from SDR and HDR. My SDR setting for HDR is too dark.


----------



## Dominic Chan

Justin_Rogers said:


> So after years of just using 3DLUTS in madvr I decided to try my hand at calibration on my Epson 5040UB for playback on my Apple TV and Shield TV. I guess I got a little jelly of the people being able to use their phones to calibrate TV's on the apple tv but not me with my projector lol.
> 
> I had two goals.
> 
> 1. Minimal changes to Natural (which is already really close to REC 709) that will be used for both SDR and HDR on those devices. This is for streaming so perfect HDR is not needed here I have MadVR for perfection on movies. I will just rely on Epson's HDR LUT (Auto Bright) for HDR using the same settings.
> 
> 2. Use medium power for the lamp (don’t want the noise or lamp life from high)
> 
> My current lamp only has about 700 hours on it atm and I am in a completely light controlled room with a silver ticket matte white screen.
> 
> I am no professional calibration technician and am just learning how to do this, so please be kind . I used a HCFR with a i1 DisplayPro colormeter and have my calibration set to REC 709 BT.1886
> 
> I have included screenshots of my results from HCFR for those interested
> 
> View attachment 3134014
> View attachment 3134015
> 
> 
> Settings are pretty minimal and are as follows.
> 
> Color Mode - Natural
> Brightness - 53
> Contrast - 52
> Color Saturation - 51
> Tint - 50
> Sharpness
> 5,5,5
> Color temp
> Color temp - 6500K
> Skin tone - 4
> Customized
> Offset - R-49, G-50, B-50
> Gain - R-50, G-50, B35
> Advanced
> Gamma - 0
> RGBCYM
> R-50,50,50
> G-50,50,50
> B-50,50.46
> C-50,50,50
> M-50,50,47
> Super White - off
> Lens Iris - 0
> Power consumption - medium
> Auto Iris - High Speed


Something's not right with your HCFR settings. You should be be getting a contrast ratio far better than 187:1. If you're using the internal pattern generator, most likely you've mis-configured the video range. It should be 0-255 instead of 16-235, unless you force the graphics card to Full Range.


----------



## satyab

I have posted below query in 5050 thread as well..hoping someone here got chance to experience 5050 & 5040.

I use NX7 for the 4K/HDR content. Planning to get 5040UB mostly for 2K BDs and HD streaming. I used 5040UB for about 2 years before I sold it in 2019 and I really liked it.
I know 5050 added 18GB HDMI support and extra lumens. I am wondering if improvements in 5050 for 1080P content justifies the extra cost. I could get 5040 Refurb unit for $1500.

Thanks.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Dominic Chan said:


> Something's not right with your HCFR settings. You should be be getting a contrast ratio far better than 187:1. If you're using the internal pattern generator, most likely you've mis-configured the video range. It should be 0-255 instead of 16-235, unless you force the graphics card to Full Range.



Ahhh thank you good sir!! You are correct, I definitely did not have that inserted correct which will explain why my Gamma was so far off what I expected as well. Now I see that the defaults gamma with a matte white screen is already at just about 2.2 for Natural.

Working on a new config now if anyone wants it when I am done.


----------



## Justin_Rogers

Dominic Chan said:


> Something's not right with your HCFR settings. You should be be getting a contrast ratio far better than 187:1. If you're using the internal pattern generator, most likely you've mis-configured the video range. It should be 0-255 instead of 16-235, unless you force the graphics card to Full Range.


So I ran some measurements and tried again after fixing my mistake on the GDI options, as you mentioned here... And its almost embarrassing to show but

After making two changes to the default Natural settings I came up with these results on the Silverticket Matte white Screen.

Power consumption - *medium*
Color Temp
customize
Gain B - *35 *


----------



## Skeptikal12

Inspector or someone, if I would be able to get the settings that you have been using with the 5040ub that would be great. Thank you in advance


----------



## inspector

Skeptikal12 said:


> Inspector or someone, if I would be able to get the settings that you have been using with the 5040ub that would be great. Thank you in advance


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## projectorhunting

Hi. I've been trying to confirm the answer on this for several days now. Are the ft/l and dynamic and bright cinema modes as bright as projector Central's review on the 5040? I ask because it is rated a lot higher than the 5050. 

Thank you.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Last night I turned my 5040 on to watch a film and noticed a green pixel that showed up on bright scenes. About half way through the film another one showed up above and to the right of it. After finishing the film and my wife going to bed, I put a few other things on to check and they seemed to not show up. Is this likely dust?
I've also not touched the lens since owning (2+ years) as I'm so afraid of making things worse when trying to clean - I have had real back luck on this. 
Anyone have good tips on cleaning dust?


----------



## john hunter

Try on of those puff brushes. That way you don't touch the lens -just blow the dust away.
Good luck mate.


----------



## Darknyt

inspector said:


> PM sent...enjoy!


Just got my 5040 refurb today and would enjoy giving these settings a shot if you are still so inclined. Likely source will be from an Apple TV I suppose, but I guess I need to do some more research on best input device?


----------



## inspector

Darknyt said:


> Just got my 5040 refurb today and would enjoy giving these settings a shot if you are still so inclined. Likely source will be from an Apple TV I suppose, but I guess I need to do some more research on best input device?


Here you go Darknyt...no name

These are the settings I've been using for a couple years and am very happy with.

The setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.

When you do your Panny 420/820, if you have one, do the same. PLAYER SETTINGS; HDMI, ADVANCED SETTINGS, VIDEO, AUDIO, 3D and HD OPTIMZER on remote.

UHD NATURAL

_IMAGE_

60
58
50
59
5 5 5
65K
4
49,49,50,50,49,43
PRESET 4
6 6
40 30
GAMMA 0, -3,-4,-4,-4,-4,-6,-30,0
RGB
51 51 61
57,58,50
55,55,50
58,75,50
54,71,62
54,60,50
ON
0
MEDIUM
HIGH

_SIGNAL_

AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD NATURAL

_IMAGE_

51
49
50
59
5 5 5
6K
4
49,49,50,50,44,43
PRESET 3
5 5
5 5
GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0
same as UHD
0
-6
MEDIUM
NORMAL

_SIGNAL_

AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD B&W (B&W CINEMA) I like my films to look black and white

_IMAGE_

50
42
37
43
0 0 0
6 5
50 for all
PRESET 1
0 0
0 0
GAMMA 1
OFF
0
MEDIUM
NORMAL

_SIGNAL_

AUTO
AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC

_IMAGE_

51
49
50
60
5 5 5
5 5
46,48,46,48,59,49
NORMAL
PRESET 3
4
1
5 5
5 5
GAMMA 1
50,58,48
57,51,46
61,50,44
46,50,41
52,49,66
52,23,69
OFF
-12
HIGH
OFF

_SIGNAL_

3D SETUP

AUTO
0
THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
MEDIUM
ON

AUTO
FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast running, using FAST clears it up)

PANNY 420 (Buy one, it's great for 4K)

SETUP PLAYER SETTINGS

_HDMI_

4K
4K(60p)(4:4:4)
AUTO
AUTO
AUTO ONLY
ON

_ADVANCED_

YcbCr (AUTO)
AUTO(12 bit Priority)
HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
ON
OFF
BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
OFF
AUTO
AUTO
ON
AUTO

_VIDEO_

AUTO
ON

_AUDIO_

OFF
---
UP TO 96 kHz
SURROUND ENCODED
NORMAL
---
O
OFF

_3D_

AUTO
ORIGINAL
OFF

REMOTE

_HD OPTIMIZER_

STANDARD
+8
0
+4
-4


Good luck!

John


----------



## blding_THX

I had my 5040UB unplugged for 4 weeks while the Denon was being repaired (HDMI went out). After plugging everything back in it appears I lost my settings and the picture was dark. Opening up the settings everything was on 50. I selected Natural, and that brightened it, but still not how it was. Thanks for posting these settings and the calibration setting on the previous page. I'll give it a go and see how it looks later this morning.

-Todd


----------



## blding_THX

The new settings worked. The HDMI 2.2 isn’t working. Any ideas?


----------



## rocky839

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Hello,

Can you send me the calibration settings for Epson 5040UB. I am currently using shield with the projection. Any additonal advice is helpful. Thanks


----------



## inspector

rocky839 said:


> Hello,
> 
> Can you send me the calibration settings for Epson 5040UB. I am currently using shield with the projection. Any additonal advice is helpful. Thanks


PM sent Rocky...enjoy!


----------



## CaptainChunk

What's the best way to program the lens memory settings on the 5040? There has to be a better way to do it than what I've tried so far.


----------



## inspector

Rocky,

You're going to have to go back many pages of poste, because your answers are there!


----------



## kartsound

With new ATV, should we continue the old recommendation of HDR with 24Hz? Are there any other tweaks like using the new apple tv calibration with 5040?


----------



## blding_THX

So, I've verified HDMI 1 (2.2) port isn't working (will not recognize any 4k input). I run a fiber optic from the Denon. Would a reset work or am I looking at a repair? Any advice from the forum would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## knmlee

kartsound said:


> With new ATV, should we continue the old recommendation of HDR with 24Hz? Are there any other tweaks like using the new apple tv calibration with 5040?


Found a good video with recommendations on how to setup ATV that works well for my 5040.






The key recommendation is to set ATV for SDR (not HDR) and then to set the Match Dynamic Range to On and the Match Frame Rate to ON. This ensures that both SDR and HDR content are displayed as intended. It works great on my 5040. I get 4K HDR when the content is encoded that way and SDR when it is not. Both look great. I have a lot of ambient light in my room so I usually leave the 5040 set to Bright Cinema mode with Dynamic Range set to Auto (Bright). 

Hope this helps...


----------



## Morphx2

What's everyone's 4K HDR settings for the Nvidia shield?


----------



## BiTeZ

Looking for a kind soul to help me out. I'm a long term member and have owned a 6040ub for a couple of years and was running calibrated settings up until last week. I didn't realize that a firmware update had been released and I moved from 109 to 114 and it appears i've lost my settings. I see that Inspector has posted some above, so thank-you very much for that.

The problem that I am having is when looking at the Projector Info information and comparing the signal quality between what is being produced by my PS5 vs the newest version of Amazon Fire TV. I have posted two pics below with the first one being the PS5 (disregard the background that says PS4, that's just the game it's showing) which produces a "RGB-Video" source, resolution of 1920x1080 and color depth of 12 bit. The second photo is of the fire cube which produces a source of "component", resolution of 3840x2160, and color depth of 8 bit. Now i'm not a professional by any means with this stuff so please forgive me but I believe the signal i'm receiving from the PS5 is much better and am trying to figure out how to improve the signal quality from the fire TV. 

Things I have done to help solve the problem:
1. I've confirmed that my receiver which is a Yamaha RX-a3060 is passing through both signals without any processing or upscaling.
2. I changed the HDMI wires between the PS5 and Fire TV to see if that made any difference......no impact.
3. I searched the internet for hours and read this forum to find insight into what may be causing this to no avail.
4. I have reviewed the Fire TV display settings and confirmed they are set to push a 4k signal with 12 bit colour depth. I've played with the settings by downscaling them to see if this would send a "cleaner" signal to the Epson but it didn't work.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what I can try to do to improve the signal quality from the Fire TV?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## WynsWrld98

BiTeZ said:


> Looking for a kind soul to help me out. I'm a long term member and have owned a 6040ub for a couple of years and was running calibrated settings up until last week. I didn't realize that a firmware update had been released and I moved from 109 to 114 and it appears i've lost my settings. I see that Inspector has posted some above, so thank-you very much for that.
> 
> The problem that I am having is when looking at the Projector Info information and comparing the signal quality between what is being produced by my PS5 vs the newest version of Amazon Fire TV. I have posted two pics below with the first one being the PS5 (disregard the background that says PS4, that's just the game it's showing) which produces a "RGB-Video" source, resolution of 1920x1080 and color depth of 12 bit. The second photo is of the fire cube which produces a source of "component", resolution of 3840x2160, and color depth of 8 bit. Now i'm not a professional by any means with this stuff so please forgive me but I believe the signal i'm receiving from the PS5 is much better and am trying to figure out how to improve the signal quality from the fire TV.
> 
> Things I have done to help solve the problem:
> 1. I've confirmed that my receiver which is a Yamaha RX-a3060 is passing through both signals without any processing or upscaling.
> 2. I changed the HDMI wires between the PS5 and Fire TV to see if that made any difference......no impact.
> 3. I searched the internet for hours and read this forum to find insight into what may be causing this to no avail.
> 4. I have reviewed the Fire TV display settings and confirmed they are set to push a 4k signal with 12 bit colour depth. I've played with the settings by downscaling them to see if this would send a "cleaner" signal to the Epson but it didn't work.
> 
> Does anyone have any thoughts on what I can try to do to improve the signal quality from the Fire TV?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> View attachment 3141614
> 
> 
> View attachment 3141615


The 6040 can't do 4K HDR at 60 Hz but the 5050/6050 can. It's due to the 5040/6040 not having 18 GB HDMI chipset.


----------



## BiTeZ

WynsWrld98 said:


> The 6040 can't do 4K HDR at 60 Hz but the 5050/6050 can. It's due to the 5040/6040 not having 18 GB HDMI chipset.


Thank-you. So why am I getting the different signal output from the PS5 vs the Fire TV? My goal is to have them put out their best signal and believe i should be able to change settings somewhere to allow for the Fire TV to output 12 bit color depth. Am i incorrect?


----------



## Dominic Chan

BiTeZ said:


> Thank-you. So why am I getting the different signal output from the PS5 vs the Fire TV? My goal is to have them put out their best signal and believe i should be able to change settings somewhere to allow for the Fire TV to output 12 bit color depth. Am i incorrect?


In the FireTV settings, under “Display & Audio / Colour Format”, the default is Automatic but you can manually select RGB or YCbCr (which the Epson displays as Component”.
Note that, as others have pointed out, the Epson 6040UB cannot do accept 12 bit color depth at 3840x2160, so you will have to sacrifice either the resolution or the bit depth.,


----------



## BiTeZ

Dominic Chan said:


> In the FireTV settings, under “Display & Audio / Colour Format”, the default is Automatic but you can manually select RGB or YCbCr (which the Epson displays as Component”.
> Note that, as others have pointed out, the Epson 6040UB cannot do accept 12 bit color depth at 3840x2160, so you will have to sacrifice either the resolution or the bit depth.,


Thank-you Dominic. So yes I have manually changed the settings in the Fire TV to try to push a 12 bit color depth but didn't have success. In your opinion, am I better to keep the higher resolution or try to get 12 bit color depth as I experience with the PS5? And for argument sake, do you know what I would need to change with the Fire TV to get the 12 bit color depth as I've tried manually changing the settings but no combination results in the projector reflecting 12 bit.

Thanks again.


----------



## texasninja956

For those of you that have had the 6040ub for awhile, would you still consider this a good buy? Do you think upgrading to the 6050ub is worth it? Is there a place to find concise info about how to use hdfury with this and is that necessary? Thanks, I’m really close to pulling the trigger on one.


----------



## Dominic Chan

BiTeZ said:


> Thank-you Dominic. So yes I have manually changed the settings in the Fire TV to try to push a 12 bit color depth but didn't have success. In your opinion, am I better to keep the higher resolution or try to get 12 bit color depth as I experience with the PS5? And for argument sake, do you know what I would need to change with the Fire TV to get the 12 bit color depth as I've tried manually changing the settings but no combination results in the projector reflecting 12 bit.
> 
> Thanks again.


There is a screen where you can select the bit depth. What happened when you tried to select 12 bits?


----------



## texasninja956

texasninja956 said:


> For those of you that have had the 6040ub for awhile, would you still consider this a good buy? Do you think upgrading to the 6050ub is worth it? Is there a place to find concise info about how to use hdfury with this and is that necessary? Thanks, I’m really close to pulling the trigger on one.


If anyone has any thoughts to share, I’d really appreciate it. Picking up a 6040 still provides quite a bit of savings. I’m just really worried about the 10gbps ports. I have no plans to game on it but do stream from hbo max, Netflix, and Hulu. We watch physical media more than anything, but do stream as well.

Also, does anyone know the model number for the chief mount that comes with the 60xx series when you buy it new?


----------



## bigdad56

So I'm closing in on 1,000 hours on my 5040 and decided I would start looking into bulb replacement. I've read about 1500 hours give or take is the bulb life? Can anyone confirm this? I know a lot of factors come into play like mode etc, I actually place mine into blank pretty often if I know I will be stepping away for like 30 minutes then coming back. Do you think this would help preserve bulb life? Regardless, I want to start looking for bulbs no matter just to be prepared when I do need to replace. This is the first projector I've ever owned and a new concept for me.

Do you buy bulbs from Epson or a third party? Are there different types of bulbs that would do different things or are they all pretty much the same?

Thanks for any and all advice!


----------



## texasninja956

db999md said:


> *Nvidia stream 2017 still sends netflix HDR with 1.09*
> 
> There are above posts one page back that state that after firmware update 1.09 to the projector that Netflix will no longer send HDR to the 5040ub using the nvidia shield 2017.
> I have not found this to be the case - netflix HDR still works after 1.09 update. Remember, you need to lock the shield at 4k/24hz for it to work.


so I tried restricting the hdr signal to sdr.bt2020 on my panny 420 yesterday for Netflix. I also tried restricting the frame rate to 24hz in my atv, but it wouldn’t send atmos to the receiver upon doing that (restricted to 5.1).

I just ordered the 6040ub. Better late than never I suppose…. It should be a big upgrade over the black levels and contrast I’m currently experiencing with my Optoma.

I mostly watch physical disks but do also stream Netflix and hbo max. I couldn’t get hdr at all from hbo max yesterday. What is the consensus on dealing with these streaming issues? Is the shield pro enough or do I need an hdfury vertex?

Any input is appreciated…. Hopefully, I get a winning ticket in the refurb roulette!


----------



## Azekecse

bigdad56 said:


> So I'm closing in on 1,000 hours on my 5040 and decided I would start looking into bulb replacement. I've read about 1500 hours give or take is the bulb life? Can anyone confirm this? I know a lot of factors come into play like mode etc, I actually place mine into blank pretty often if I know I will be stepping away for like 30 minutes then coming back. Do you think this would help preserve bulb life? Regardless, I want to start looking for bulbs no matter just to be prepared when I do need to replace. This is the first projector I've ever owned and a new concept for me.
> 
> Do you buy bulbs from Epson or a third party? Are there different types of bulbs that would do different things or are they all pretty much the same?
> 
> Thanks for any and all advice!


OEM, bulbs are always optimal. I tried a third party vendor with my previously owned 6040 and the projector went bunkers, needless to say I returned the lamp for a full refund. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## texasninja956

Okay, so I got my 6040 all set up and tried a few streaming apps and movies on my ub420.
Steaming apps on my ATV seem to work fine when match frame rate and range are engaged. Netflix and Disney plus both output 4k24p hdr.bt2020 and dolby atmos. The exception to this was hbo max, which just shows a black screen when I try to play content.

Black panther on the ub420 was only outputting 1080p sdr.bt2020. Anybody have any idea what settings I need to get it to output 4k?? I used to have it set to sdr.bt2020 with my old projector so that’s not a problem as I found it looked better than hdr.bt2020. Could it be my chroma settings?

Lastly, while the image is a huge improvement over my old projector, I did notice two faint white circles/blotches about 4in in diameter. They are only visible in black/dark scenes. They are very faint but now that I noticed them I can’t unsee them. Are they dust blobs? I’ve only owned two projectors my entire life and the previous one didn’t have them (so I know it’s not my screen)….I have three years of warranty… should I send it in or contact Epson? Is it worth the hassle? Do they usually ship out a replacement or will they argue nothing is wrong with it?


----------



## texasninja956

Got it all working! Had my processor plugged into hdmi 2 but only hdmi 1 is hdcp 2.2 compliant. It is working seamlessly with my atv4k and panny ub420! With matching frame rate and dynamic range and the hdr optimizer, this thing looks incredible and the 10gbps hdmi port isn’t a limitation at all…. I can’t imagine a better value for what I paid!! Now on to tinkering with the settings to dial it in!!


----------



## inspector

Sent you my settings to help you start out.


----------



## texasninja956

inspector said:


> Sent you my settings to help you start out.


Thank you for that. Sir, do you have any thoughts regarding the two faint white blotches I see against a black image? They are very faint but I see them when the scene is very dark/black. Would you recommend that I ask for a replacement or is that pretty common?


----------



## inspector

I have a very, very faint one inch wide green blotch which is only visible during 2.35:1 movies. In the lower left bottom of the black bar on the bottom of the screen.

I’m leaving mine alone,


----------



## inspector

You’re welcome about the settings.


----------



## texasninja956

inspector said:


> I have a very, very faint one inch wide green blotch which is only visible during 2.35:1 movies. In the lower left bottom of the black bar on the bottom of the screen.
> 
> I’m leaving mine alone,


I have two of them. Both are white and very faint. It's hard to gauge how large they are but i'd estimate about 3in in diameter. They are visible when it is completely black but not really visible while watching content. I'm not even sure what they are. My main concern is that they might just send me one with more problems.


----------



## deano86

texasninja956 said:


> I have two of them. Both are white and very faint. It's hard to gauge how large they are but i'd estimate about 3in in diameter. They are visible when it is completely black but not really visible while watching content. I'm not even sure what they are. My main concern is that they might just send me one with more problems.


Well, unfortunately only you can decide whether it is worth taking a spin on the refurbished roulette wheel.... But, you should also have the option to return it for repair and have the exact some projector sent back to you.... At the very least though, I would let them know about the noted defect to get it documented to just to see what they say.....


----------



## inspector

I've had my PJ since 2017 and the blotch just showed up 2 months ago.

Chances are, if you do send it in, you could get a bad one...keep it. I see mine all the time but I ignore it.


----------



## Darknyt

inspector said:


> Here you go Darknyt...no name
> 
> These are the settings I've been using for a couple years and am very happy with.
> 
> The setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.
> 
> When you do your Panny 420/820, if you have one, do the same. PLAYER SETTINGS; HDMI, ADVANCED SETTINGS, VIDEO, AUDIO, 3D and HD OPTIMZER on remote.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> John


Thanks John! Do these settings matter what kind of screen you are using? I’ll be in a basement room where I can control all lighting but walls will be lighter colored so still a little undecided on white vs gray, gain etc. 

Seth


----------



## inspector

When you have light colored walls, you lose light from the PJ and it bleeds onto the walls. When my HT was built, the builders painted half the walls beige. I finally painted them dark grey and now no light bleed. That screen info is in my signature.


----------



## inspector

You’re welcome Seth.
,


----------



## b_scott

if I'm calibrating the 5040ub, and I have a Spyder X Pro, and a PC hooked up to my projector - I should be set, right? I just need to translate the readings to my projector settings and keep taking readings until it tells me it's correct? I figure that's the only way to do it. I have the DisplayCAL software.


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> if I'm calibrating the 5040ub, and I have a Spyder X Pro, and a PC hooked up to my projector - I should be set, right? I just need to translate the readings to my projector settings and keep taking readings until it tells me it's correct? I figure that's the only way to do it. I have the DisplayCAL software.


If you’re using the projector with sources other than (or in addition to) the HTPC, you should use HCFR instead of DisplayCAL.


----------



## b_scott

Dominic Chan said:


> If you’re using the projector with sources other than (or in addition to) the HTPC, you should use HCFR instead of DisplayCAL.


Thanks. I forgot I have HCFR as well. It's been awhile since I thought about doing this. I just ordered the Spear and Munsil HDR disc too. Just as another option.

With HCFR I would use a disc or some pure source to put up the test images and then run the spyder to my laptop and take readings, and then adjust on the projector - right?


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> Thanks. I forgot I have HCFR as well. It's been awhile since I thought about doing this. I just ordered the Spear and Munsil HDR disc too. Just as another option.
> 
> With HCFR I would use a disc or some pure source to put up the test images and then run the spyder to my laptop and take readings, and then adjust on the projector - right?


You can also use HCFR’s built-in test patterns.


----------



## mjmediaman

Is there an HDR setting that people are using with the Panasonic ub420 that they are happy with. I have tried a few that are floating around but I am still not settled. I have yet to try any of the HDR->SDR converted settings. Can anyone recommend a good HDR settings that work with this player?


----------



## texasninja956

Dominic Chan said:


> If you’re using the projector with sources other than (or in addition to) the HTPC, you should use HCFR instead of DisplayCAL.


I've tried hcfr with a spyder colorimeter on my other displays... let's just say that my calibration skills are about as weak as they can get... lol

I'm interested in giving it another go though!

EDIT: If you happen to know of any walkthrough videos for beginners, that would be immensely helpful!


----------



## b_scott

Dominic Chan said:


> You can also use HCFR’s built-in test patterns.


how would I display them with my projector but not use a PC source?


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> how would I display them with my projector but not use a PC source?


Just play them on the player. But you need to manually "synchronize" the pattern with what HCFR is expecting.


----------



## b_scott

Dominic Chan said:


> Just play them on the player. But you need to manually "synchronize" the pattern with what HCFR is expecting.


Sorry, but play what on what player? I assume the test patterns are just a program? Sorry I've never used HCFR, I probably just need to research more.


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> Sorry, but play what on what player? I assume the test patterns are just a program? Sorry I've never used HCFR, I probably just need to research more.


That has nothing to do with HCFR.
If you have a pattern disc, then play it on your blu-ray player, the same way you play movie discs. Similarly if you have downloaded pattern files, then play them by connecting them to the USB port, like you play downloaded movies.
It's much easier to use the internal HCFR patterns (at least for SDR), but you were asking "not use a PC source".


----------



## b_scott

Dominic Chan said:


> That has nothing to do with HCFR.
> If you have a pattern disc, then play it on your blu-ray player, the same way you play movie discs. Similarly if you have downloaded pattern files, then play them by connecting them to the USB port, like you play downloaded movies.
> It's much easier to use the internal HCFR patterns (at least for SDR), but you were asking "not use a PC source".


gotcha, thanks. I wasn't going to use a non PC source but you had mentioned "If you’re using the projector with sources other than (or in addition to) the HTPC"

I mostly watch movies on my nVidia Shield Pro, or my Panasonic 820.


----------



## parkerNY

My 5040UB developed one of the dreaded "green blobs" on the projected image yesterday and this one is prominent enough that I notice it during TV/movie playback, and it's very obvious on any kind of solid black background like my receiver's settings UI or movie credits. Prior to this the projector had been just about perfect since I bought it two summers ago.

On the upside, I actually have around 3 weeks left of warranty on the projector, so better that it happened now rather than in one month. (Also, I was really impressed to find that my refurb 5040UB from July 2019 came with a 2 year warranty!)

I opened a support case with Epson, but is there anything I can try to eliminate the dust on my own as a quick fix in the meantime?


----------



## mrvtec

has anyone treid the new Chromecast 2020 with Google TV, to see if it allows HDR at 24hz when casting, or dose it still lock to 60hz like the older chromecasts


----------



## texasninja956

Played refurb roulette after only having my projector for a couple of weeks. I had two dust blobs, confirmed by the wife ! They forgot to call me back last week to charge me for the replacement so I called them on Monday or Tuesday. Low and behold the replacement arrived today and is dust blob free. Maybe I got lucky or am the exception, but I couldn't be happier right now.

Do you guys have any good images to test for other possible defects? I'm not intentionally looking for them, but if there is anything glaring I should catch I definitely want to do so. It looks fantastic to me, just don't want to miss anything (and I'm really not sure what to look for tbh).


----------



## carp

texasninja956 said:


> Played refurb roulette after only having my projector for a couple of weeks. I had two dust blobs, confirmed by the wife ! They forgot to call me back last week to charge me for the replacement so I called them on Monday or Tuesday. Low and behold the replacement arrived today and is dust blob free. Maybe I got lucky or am the exception, but I couldn't be happier right now.
> 
> Do you guys have any good images to test for other possible defects? I'm not intentionally looking for them, but if there is anything glaring I should catch I definitely want to do so. It looks fantastic to me, just don't want to miss anything (and I'm really not sure what to look for tbh).


Do you have a PC image you can put up on the screen? One of the things I check for first is image uniformity. It is very common for the entire screen to not focus 100%, for example one corner is blurry while everything else is clear, that kind of thing. You can't really tell that much on normal tv/movie content but if you use a PC on the big screen it will be obvious and it drives me nuts.


----------



## texasninja956

carp said:


> Do you have a PC image you can put up on the screen? One of the things I check for first is image uniformity. It is very common for the entire screen to not focus 100%, for example one corner is blurry while everything else is clear, that kind of thing. You can't really tell that much on normal tv/movie content but if you use a PC on the big screen it will be obvious and it drives me nuts.


Yeah, I’ve hooked my laptop up to run rew. Is there a particular image or screen where it is more obvious or would it be pretty bad on just the Home Screen?


----------



## sleepingatsea

mjmediaman said:


> Is there an HDR setting that people are using with the Panasonic ub420 that they are happy with. I have tried a few that are floating around but I am still not settled. I have yet to try any of the HDR->SDR converted settings. Can anyone recommend a good HDR settings that work with this player?


Hey, below are settings I am using with the HDR-SDR Conversion which I think look really great. 

*Panny UHD 4K SDR2020*
HDMI/Advanced settings
HDR/Colour Gamut Output - SDR/BT2020
Option (Remote)
HDR Optimiser On
DR Conversion +8 - you can tweak this to where you think but between +6 or +8 is needed.
Tone Curve (White) +4
Tone Curve (Black) -4

Epson

Digital Cinema
Brightness 51
Contrast 62
Color Saturation 52
Tint 50
Sharpness 9/9/9
Color temp 4
Skin tone 3
Image enhancement 3
Super resolution 6/6

Advanced
Gamma - customised
0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28, -26, 16, 32
RGB 50/50/50 for all
Super White off
Iris 0
Power medium
Auto iris normal

Signal/Advanced
Dynamic Range SDR
Image processing fast


----------



## Majestic-Salt

@inspector me too plz pm thanks


----------



## inspector

Majestic-Salt said:


> @inspector me too plz pm thanks


PM sent, enjoy!


----------



## mjmediaman

Brettmckinney said:


> Hey, below are settings I am using with the HDR-SDR Conversion which I think look really great.
> 
> *Panny UHD 4K SDR2020*
> HDMI/Advanced settings
> HDR/Colour Gamut Output - SDR/BT2020
> Option (Remote)
> HDR Optimiser On
> DR Conversion +8 - you can tweak this to where you think but between +6 or +8 is needed.
> Tone Curve (White) +4
> Tone Curve (Black) -4
> 
> Epson
> 
> Digital Cinema
> Brightness 51
> Contrast 62
> Color Saturation 52
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 9/9/9
> Color temp 4
> Skin tone 3
> Image enhancement 3
> Super resolution 6/6
> 
> Advanced
> Gamma - customised
> 0,-14,-24,-26,-27,-28, -26, 16, 32
> RGB 50/50/50 for all
> Super White off
> Iris 0
> Power medium
> Auto iris normal
> 
> Signal/Advanced
> Dynamic Range SDR
> Image processing fast


Thank you, I will give these a shot and see. So far the best Ive tried are the Harpervision settings but Im still trying stuff out.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Yep to be honest there isn't much better than Harpervision I think. I use those settings on my Shield for streaming and NAS playback. But when using the Panny player you have the advantage of the dynamic range slider so great to have the option to open up the color gamut without comprising too much brightness. It's really cinematic

Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk


----------



## anbudan

inspector said:


> PM sent, enjoy!


@inspector Can you send me too please


----------



## carp

texasninja956 said:


> Yeah, I’ve hooked my laptop up to run rew. Is there a particular image or screen where it is more obvious or would it be pretty bad on just the Home Screen?


Whoops, sorry for the late reply. Just make sure you have something on the screen that has small text in all corner areas.


----------



## inspector

anbudan said:


> @inspector Can you send me too please


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## texasninja956

carp said:


> Whoops, sorry for the late reply. Just make sure you have something on the screen that has small text in all corner areas.


Thanks! I'll give that a shot today!!


----------



## ltalbrecht

I have been using this projector for a little over a year now. Love it. But, I have 2 smudges that look like dust blobs. I have cleaned the outside of the lens, but it makes no difference. Suspect it is on the inside? Is that possible and how easy is it to remove the lens and clean it? I did not seen instructions for that in the manual. Thanks.


----------



## inspector

Don't do anything. Some on here have the same problem. Mine is slightly green and in the lower left corner. If I look for it, I see it. If I don't, it's not there.


----------



## ltalbrecht

Mine is lower center. I have to say, it's really only noticeable on a black screen. Thanks.


----------



## ConnorsDad

I picked up a used Epson 6040 recently. The original owner decided against sending the projector in for repair after it began getting stuck in "warm up" and out of warranty. The power led lights normally and the status light flashes blue, but the lamp never strikes. After 4 or 5 minutes, it simply powers off. There are no error codes or red/yellow lights. I'm thinking this is a ballast issue. The original owner had the power supply repaired under warranty(no refurbs or replacements). I tried installing a spare lamp with the same results. Is this worth playing with? I can source a new ballast, new lamp, and/or new power supply, but I don't want this to turn into a money pit. I'm fairly handle at replacing parts without destroying the patient. I replaced the cinema filter motor on my Epson 5010 five or six years ago, but I need a little guidance here. Thanks!


----------



## tibimakai

It could also be a missing command, from the mainboard, that would tell the ballast to turn on. I don't think that you will get any repair help from this forum.
I'm also looking for a projector with the no start issue, to be able to find the issue these projectors are having issues with.
Yours sounds to have a different issue.
I would measure the signal path from the mainboard to the ballest, to see, if it's receiving the startup command. If it receives it, I would diagnose the ballast board for failed component(s).


----------



## xpl0sive

Hi all, what's the recommended media player to use with this projector? Looking at a Shield Pro or a Chromecast with Google TV. If all I want to do is stream off the likes of Netflix, Prime etc, is there any benefit to the Shield over the Chromecast?


----------



## D.Guimel

@inspector Can you send me too please


----------



## inspector

D.Guimel said:


> @inspector Can you send me too please


PM just sent. Enjoy!


----------



## taba1

inspector said:


> PM just sent. Enjoy!


hey Inspector I would love to try your settings please if you could send them to me that would be great between all different aps Disney,netflix ect every source and movie or tv show looks different in hdr I ve got 4 pre saved mem another option would be excellent Thankyou


----------



## inspector

taba1 said:


> hey Inspector I would love to try your settings please if you could send them to me that would be great between all different aps Disney,netflix ect every source and movie or tv show looks different in hdr I ve got 4 pre saved mem another option would be excellent Thankyou


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## filipp2442

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Could you please send me your settings as well?


----------



## inspector

filipp2442 said:


> Could you please send me your settings as well?


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## cubsfan

and to me also ! thanks inspector.


----------



## inspector

cubsfan said:


> and to me also ! thanks inspector.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Odysea

I have had this projector for a couple of years now, already sitting at about 2,000 hours. I like to blame covid for all those hours lol, but in reality when should I be thinking of replacing the lamp? I've got one on order, but do I wait until the bulb dies or do I want to swap them out before then?

Also, I hate to jump on the bandwagon Inspector, but would you mind sending me your settings as well? I've tweaked mine over the the years but would be curious what some of you more hobbyist minded folks have come up with.

Thanks!


----------



## inspector

Odysea said:


> I have had this projector for a couple of years now, already sitting at about 2,000 hours. I like to blame covid for all those hours lol, but in reality when should I be thinking of replacing the lamp? I've got one on order, but do I wait until the bulb dies or do I want to swap them out before then?
> 
> Also, I hate to jump on the bandwagon Inspector, but would you mind sending me your settings as well? I've tweaked mine over the the years but would be curious what some of you more hobbyist minded folks have come up with.
> 
> Thanks!


PM sent. Enjoy!

My lamp has about 3K hrs. on it and that's from 2017 when I bought the PJ. I have 2 spares waiting in the wings but so far nothing from the PJ telling me I should change it out. I use HIGH on 3D and MED for everything else.

Hope that helps.


----------



## David Sal

Hi inspector. Would like the settings too. Thanks.

Enviado desde mi moto g power mediante Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

David Sal said:


> Hi inspector. Would like the settings too. Thanks.
> 
> Enviado desde mi moto g power mediante Tapatalk


PM sent. Enjoy David!


----------



## FSUsmith

Hello, I just got my refurbished(direct from Epson) and got it fired up. I was playing around with it and was getting error messages when trying to switch to a “Cinema” color mode. Is this common and is there a work around or simple fix? Thank you!

Attached is the error message


----------



## inspector

Cinema gives a shiny/fluorescent picture, that's why I don't use it. But, since it's doing it, it my be time to start the dreaded send back roulette.

Go thru everything you can think of to see if everything works...then send it back. 

Good luck!


----------



## FSUsmith

inspector said:


> Cinema gives a shiny/fluorescent picture, that's why I don't use it. But, since it's doing it, it my be time to start the dreaded send back roulette.
> 
> Go thru everything you can think of to see if everything works...then send it back.
> 
> Good luck!


can I ask what setting you use?
Thank you!


----------



## inspector

FSUsmith said:


> can I ask what setting you use?
> Thank you!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Hicks111

Hi Inspector. I would love to try your settings as well if you don't mind. Thanks!


----------



## inspector

Hicks111 said:


> Hi Inspector. I would love to try your settings as well if you don't mind. Thanks!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## harpo210

Hi all - is there a concnsus on 6040 reliability? Looking at a used one with extra bulb. If it’s got 1800hrs on it with no issues. (FWIW I believe the guy) If it’s going to have the power up issue would it have happened by now- or is it just as likely to be a problem in the future.? In other words- were there ‘lemons’ and ‘non lemons’?

ive loved my 5030 but it started showing thevertical blue line and it’s time too replace.
Thanks


----------



## inspector

harpo210 said:


> Hi all - is there a concnsus on 6040 reliability? Looking at a used one with extra bulb. If it’s got 1800hrs on it with no issues. (FWIW I believe the guy) If it’s going to have the power up issue would it have happened by now- or is it just as likely to be a problem in the future.? In other words- were there ‘lemons’ and ‘non lemons’?
> 
> ive loved my 5030 but it started showing thevertical blue line and it’s time too replace.
> Thanks


I'd go for it. I've had mine since May 2017 and never a problem. If the price is right, go for it. Then purchase a Panny 420 to enhance your 4K capabilities. By the way, the cost? If not, then a PM.


----------



## harpo210

inspector said:


> I'd go for it. I've had mine since May 2017 and never a problem. If the price is right, go for it. Then purchase a Panny 420 to enhance your 4K capabilities. By the way, the cost? If not, then a PM.


Thanks inspector . He's asking $1200 with new spare bulb in box. That seems pretty fair though I suppose I could offer less. I've had a lot of good years with my 5030 and can hardly believe the picture can getbetter. I see Epson is selling refurb units for $1600 with 2 year warranty and I'm considering doing that as an alternative.. 

Will the Panny unit make for higher pq when streaming vs. a fire stick 4K or Comcst Infinity cable? I haven't been following 'the latest' on HT since I've been happy with what I've got (other than wanting to go Dolby Atmos soon).


----------



## inspector

harpo210 said:


> Thanks inspector . He's asking $1200 with new spare bulb in box. That seems pretty fair though I suppose I could offer less. I've had a lot of good years with my 5030 and can hardly believe the picture can getbetter. I see Epson is selling refurb units for $1600 with 2 year warranty and I'm considering doing that as an alternative..
> 
> Will the Panny unit make for higher pq when streaming vs. a fire stick 4K or Comcst Infinity cable? I haven't been following 'the latest' on HT since I've been happy with what I've got (other than wanting to go Dolby Atmos soon).


PM sent.


----------



## D.Guimel

lens memory on my 5040 isn't going back to the exact place I set it to, it's always a little off the screen, could you tell me how to fix this?


----------



## talon95tsi

D.Guimel said:


> lens memory on my 5040 isn't going back to the exact place I set it to, it's always a little off the screen, could you tell me how to fix this?


see here: Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread


----------



## BradP

Can anyone confirm the Main and Video2 values of the latest firmware of their 5040UB? I am attempting to update firmware and I'm not sure if it's taking or not. I did a search for the value in "main" and came up empty, is that unique by unit or something? My Video2 value is 7YL28RMV111.


----------



## ba_crane

Random, but I’m looking at a used 5040. I also saw the proliferation of UST at more reasonable price. Specifically the Xgimi horizon pro. Anyone have any input in which would throw a better picture?


----------



## inspector

Since this is an Epson thread, I bet most would say the EPSON, I sure as hell would!


----------



## ba_crane

I have a blacked out room with apple 4K and ub820 for disc media. Is there quite a bump in image quality of 5050 over 50540? Price is considerably more.


----------



## inspector

If I had the money, I would upgrade to the 5050. Not sure if the 5050 is 100% better than the 5040. Maybe the 5050 thread will help you out in making your decision.


----------



## daguy80

Just bought a refurbished 5040ube 5 days ago and now it is not working. The projector will power on showing the epson logo and getting into the setting screen but as soon as I select an input the fan will go screaming and the lens cover will close. I am getting a blue flashing light and flashing orange (lamp) light. After 30 seconds of the fan in full power it will shut off. Any ideas what could be the problem. Only has about 10 hours on it.


----------



## inspector

Time to return it for another refurbished one. Hopefully the next one will be okay. Good luck!


----------



## FSUsmith

I’m ready to pull the trigger on a 3d blu ray player… what have you found pairs well with the 5040? I’d like 4K uhd/3d around $200. I have it down to ub420 vs Sony x700 or 800m2. Any input is appreciated!


----------



## inspector

The 420 is the way to go.


----------



## inspector

FSUsmith said:


> I’m ready to pull the trigger on a 3d blu ray player… what have you found pairs well with the 5040? I’d like 4K uhd/3d around $200. I have it down to ub420 vs Sony x700 or 800m2. Any input is appreciated!


PM sent to help you out with your 5040 and the 420.


----------



## daguy80

inspector said:


> Time to return it for another refurbished one. Hopefully the next one will be okay. Good luck!


I tried it again it seems to work now after I disabled the hdmi link /cec. I was able to turn back on the hdmi link and it is working again. Now it seems like it has another problem. I don't know if anyone has experienced seeing a green box that will flash very fast always only on the bottom right screen. It doesn't do it all the time but when it does it is noticeable. Sometimes the square wouldn't show up but I will see a few green lines and it is ways on the bottom right quarter of the screen. Anyone ever seen that or know what could be the issue?


----------



## FSUsmith

I have the ube version. So far the wireless transmitter has worked perfectly. I’m just wondering if the video quality will be significantly better with an actual hdmi cord connection?


----------



## daguy80

Also I have another question about the fan after shut off. I always assumed the fan will run for a few seconds after turning off to cool the projector down before completely turning off. On my unit as soon as I hit the standby button and the lens closes the fan is off and it turns off. Is this normal or does it need to run for a few seconds before turning off.


----------



## Odysea

daguy80 said:


> Also I have another question about the fan after shut off. I always assumed the fan will run for a few seconds after turning off to cool the projector down before completely turning off. On my unit as soon as I hit the standby button and the lens closes the fan is off and it turns off. Is this normal or does it need to run for a few seconds before turning off.


My fan runs for a bit before turning off. It really seems like your projector has a number of issues. Even if you could get it working in the short term properly, I would take advantage of that warranty... I'd be sketched out about something catastrophic failing after the warranty has ended. Just my 2c, best of luck!


----------



## daguy80

Odysea said:


> My fan runs for a bit before turning off. It really seems like your projector has a number of issues. Even if you could get it working in the short term properly, I would take advantage of that warranty... I'd be sketched out about something catastrophic failing after the warranty has ended. Just my 2c, best of luck!


I figured out what the glitching issue was. It was the connection from the wireless hdmi. When I use the wired connection it seems to have fixed this. The fan still will turn off right after I power it off. Also does anyone know how to turn on 4k enhancement? When I go to that setting it seems to be grayed out. I checked my source from the projector info menu and I am receiving a 4k source from my laptop. But for some reason I cannot turn on the 4k enhancement.


----------



## Odysea

daguy80 said:


> I figured out what the glitching issue was. It was the connection from the wireless hdmi. When I use the wired connection it seems to have fixed this. The fan still will turn off right after I power it off. Also does anyone know how to turn on 4k enhancement? When I go to that setting it seems to be grayed out. I checked my source from the projector info menu and I am receiving a 4k source from my laptop. But for some reason I cannot turn on the 4k enhancement.


Someone may need to correct me, but if your source is providing HDR or anything like that it's too much data for it to handle (woes of previous generation hdmi). I believe it's capable of 4k SDR at 60fps.


----------



## deano86

daguy80 said:


> I figured out what the glitching issue was. It was the connection from the wireless hdmi. When I use the wired connection it seems to have fixed this. The fan still will turn off right after I power it off. Also does anyone know how to turn on 4k enhancement? When I go to that setting it seems to be grayed out. I checked my source from the projector info menu and I am receiving a 4k source from my laptop. But for some reason I cannot turn on the 4k enhancement.


If your source is already 4K, then the 4K enhancement is not available, because it is already at 4K! The enhancement is only available for selection when receiving 1080p or anything less than 4K.


----------



## daguy80

Odysea said:


> Someone may need to correct me, but if your source is providing HDR or anything like that it's too much data for it to handle (woes of previous generation hdmi). I believe it's capable of 4k SDR at 60fps.





deano86 said:


> If your source is already 4K, then the 4K enhancement is not available, because it is already at 4K! The enhancement is only available for selection when receiving 1080p or anything less than 4K.


I thought it was the other way around. I will try a 1080p source when I get home to see if I can activate the 4k enhancement option then.


----------



## deano86

Odysea said:


> Someone may need to correct me, but if your source is providing HDR or anything like that it's too much data for it to handle (woes of previous generation hdmi). I believe it's capable of 4k SDR at 60fps.


Well, it can also handle 4k HDR at 24fps just fine... it just can not do HDR at higher frame rates though...


----------



## deano86

daguy80 said:


> I thought it was the other way around. I will try a 1080p source when I get home to see if I can activate the 4k enhancement option then.


No it isn't ... the only reason it is greyed out when playing a 4k source is because the Epson is automatically engaging the 4k display enhancement... when your source is less than 4k , you have the option to enable or not if you wish.


----------



## BradP

Thought I'd pop in here instead of starting a new thread, if I'm in the wrong place please let me know. Usually I troubleshoot and fix issues myself but I'm a little stuck on this one.

Before I get into the details: 

TL;DR - My 5040UB seems to be suffering from lack of any shadow detail especially with HDR content.

Some specifics:

- I've had the projector a couple years but this is a replacement following a power supply defect I received from Epson about a year ago. Lamp hours are 950, assuming Epson sent the replacement unit with a new bulb (no way to be sure I guess).

- Projector is connected via HDMI from an Nvidia shield TV into a Denon AVRX4300H AVR then out. Denon set to 4K enhanced. Shield TV is set to 4K @24. Other devices (Xbox Series X for example) produce similar loss of detail in dark scenes so I am fairly certainly not the video player as the cause.

- Screen is a white 150" (large) Seymour AV fabric, unsure of gain at this time.

- Have not done my own calibration as I don't own a meter but also don't expect it to be THIS bad even without. Tried the popular Harpervision settings as a starting point for now.

- The HDMI cable is an uncertainly, as this is a dedicated room with the equipment outside I had to buy a pretty long cable, and the room was not built with an easy way to route a new cable without cutting the ceiling open, so not easy (but also not impossible) to replace it. Just not something I can test super quickly or with a short cable. My Xbox Series X does report a 4K signal but no HDR10 support which could possibly be an indicator it's the inability of the cable, that said, the Shield TV indicates "HDR10 ready". 

- Dedicated room is fully light controlled, no windows, dark brown walls and ceiling.

- Projector reports HDR BT2020 when playing HDR content. Picture is just excessively dark overall in dark scenes or scenes with shadows, all detail is totally lost. Brighter scenes or scenes with regular lighting look amazing and are vibrant and eye popping. The same scenes watched on even low level LCD TVs and my OLED have incredible detail you can see even in dark shadowy scenes (actors faces, backgrounds). Movies on the Epson everything is just black, or you see outlines of bodies and faces without detail.

I feel like I have been through the settings a million times and am still hoping this is user error, something critically I am doing wrong, or maybe a poor quality HDMI cable that can cause this (though I expect my issues would be more than shadow detail if it was the HDMI cable and the Epson would not report BT 2020 HDR if the cable wasn't working).

I'd post some screenshots but my phone seems to correct the picture itself and what I'd post would be brighter and not truly represent what I see in the room.

Truly frustrated here as I am unsure of where to look next. I could try swapping the bulb however bright scenes look great. I would buy a new cable if you all think this could be the issue and had a suggestion for a replacement. A faulty cable is something I can understand if it can cause this. Beyond that, not sure what else I can be checking here unless the unit itself has some sort of defect with one of its components that could cause this as well (is there a way to tell if the auto iris has an issue, and if it does, would the iris malfunctioning cause this?)

Again thanks, this was long. Just wanted to make sure I explained it well. Really appreciate everyone's time and love you all. Just want my theater looking good!


----------



## john hunter

Have you tried using the Super White or Gamma settings.??
Also the PJ mates perfectly with the Panasonic players using their Optimiser which will do the main tone mapping.
You can pick up a UB420 for very little.
You have 10 memories so it is easy to try different settings.


----------



## deano86

john hunter said:


> Have you tried using the Super White or Gamma settings.??
> Also the PJ mates perfectly with the Panasonic players using their Optimiser which will do the main tone mapping.
> You can pick up a UB420 for very little.
> You have 10 memories so it is easy to try different settings.


+1... good suggestions.. Although tone mapping shouldn't be an issue if the op is actually feeding it a 4K HDR signal. I found that I had to engage Super White in order to properly calibrate my Contrast.. and tweaking the Gamma can help with your Brightness coming out of Black too slowly or too quickly..There are posts in this thread ad nauseam regarding trying to find the right balance of brightness with HDR highlights... it does take some work to get it the way you like with your own combination of screen material, size, your lamp power settings and room brightness... etc... 

The annoying thing that I wish this projector had was an automatic picture memory for incoming HDR content. I mean it switches to my higher lamp setting and revised picture settings when it detects a 3D signal. Why not also switch to all your preferred picture settings when it detects an HDR signal? It does switch Dynamic Range to HDR Bright 1, but that's it.


----------



## BradP

Thanks for these suggestions guys. I'm also with you on why the HDR swap can't be automatic, I really hoped that would come in a FW update and it never did. So now I need to remember to change memory modes in and out when I am moving from HDR to SDR. I may write a Harmony macro to do it faster.

Since making this post I learned something accidentally, using my Xbox Series X on an HDR movie the picture was markedly clearer and richer than on my Shield TV. I noticed my 5040UB said that HDR10 was not supported on my Xbox or HDR for gaming when I went into picture settings. I always figured that this was just a flaw of the 5040UB. However the shield TV does let me switch HDR10 modes on but looks awful. So I'm going to do some experimenting on that and also ordered a new 8K cable just to take the cable out of the running as the issue. Will report my findings back in case anyone else experiences the issue. Need to make sure the Shield TV also has a good cable going to the AVR. I'd be shocked if this was cable related though. It's likely that the Shield is just allowing me to turn on HDR10 color modes that the 5040UB can't support and the Xbox isn't, hence the Xbox is handling the content better. The Shield is failing due to improperly feeding the 5040UB. My current theory anyway. 

More to come.


----------



## jbnpaul

BradP said:


> Thanks for these suggestions guys. I'm also with you on why the HDR swap can't be automatic, I really hoped that would come in a FW update and it never did. So now I need to remember to change memory modes in and out when I am moving from HDR to SDR. I may write a Harmony macro to do it faster.
> 
> Since making this post I learned something accidentally, using my Xbox Series X on an HDR movie the picture was markedly clearer and richer than on my Shield TV. I noticed my 5040UB said that HDR10 was not supported on my Xbox or HDR for gaming when I went into picture settings. I always figured that this was just a flaw of the 5040UB. However the shield TV does let me switch HDR10 modes on but looks awful. So I'm going to do some experimenting on that and also ordered a new 8K cable just to take the cable out of the running as the issue. Will report my findings back in case anyone else experiences the issue. Need to make sure the Shield TV also has a good cable going to the AVR. I'd be shocked if this was cable related though. It's likely that the Shield is just allowing me to turn on HDR10 color modes that the 5040UB can't support and the Xbox isn't, hence the Xbox is handling the content better. The Shield is failing due to improperly feeding the 5040UB. My current theory anyway.
> 
> More to come.


My conclusion is HDR simply doesn’t look good unless you can tone map externally.

So I set my Apple TV to 4K sdr and content looks amazing. And if I try HDR it looks way too dark ( I was never happy with HDR)

I also have a pc with madvr that can tone map HDR to SDR and I use this when I can ( not too frequently since most content is streaming) and this is probably the best images I can get with this projector


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BradP

jbnpaul said:


> My conclusion is HDR simply doesn’t look good unless you can tone map externally.
> 
> So I set my Apple TV to 4K sdr and content looks amazing. And if I try HDR it looks way too dark ( I was never happy with HDR)
> 
> I also have a pc with madvr that can tone map HDR to SDR and I use this when I can ( not too frequently since most content is streaming) and this is probably the best images I can get with this projector
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I appreciate this response as it may be exactly what I am seeing here with this projector and I am just looking for something unrealistic. I have been forcing the HDMI range from Auto/Standard to Expanded just to lighten up the dark scenes when I turn on HDR, which at least gets some detail back but also washes out the blacks. SDR content continues to look so great on the projector, so it's a shame that when I feed it genuine HDR content BT 2020 at 4K resolution that everything dark just goes terribly wrong. After another hour or so last night I was back to both my Xbox and Shield TV set to HDR10 support at 4K resolution, this projector apparently doesn't suppose HDR10 for gaming on Xbox but I am just testing video anyway. And once again, dark scenes just seemed to be way too dark vs dark scenes in standard SDR content. I'll either need to learn a lot about calibration (I assume getting the gamma right and doing a true metered calibration may mitigate this) -- or do like you and just use my Apple TV and convert HDR down to SDR.


----------



## Savatage316

Hey guys question, anyone have an issue where you turn it on and the fans come on like normal, the slider opens and then after a bit the fans ramp up a little but the bulb never turns on? It's from 2016, been solid...last night had to turn it on 3 or 4 times to get visual and once on worked perfect as always . But today just not having it, anyone experience anything like this?


----------



## Dominic Chan

BradP said:


> I appreciate this response as it may be exactly what I am seeing here with this projector and I am just looking for something unrealistic. I have been forcing the HDMI range from Auto/Standard to Expanded just to lighten up the dark scenes when I turn on HDR, which at least gets some detail back but also washes out the blacks. SDR content continues to look so great on the projector, so it's a shame that when I feed it genuine HDR content BT 2020 at 4K resolution that everything dark just goes terribly wrong. After another hour or so last night I was back to both my Xbox and Shield TV set to HDR10 support at 4K resolution, this projector apparently doesn't suppose HDR10 for gaming on Xbox but I am just testing video anyway. And once again, dark scenes just seemed to be way too dark vs dark scenes in standard SDR content. I'll either need to learn a lot about calibration (I assume getting the gamma right and doing a true metered calibration may mitigate this) -- or do like you and just use my Apple TV and convert HDR down to SDR.


This thread has some discussions on calibrating HDR on the 5040UB:








Calibrating HDR on Epson 5040/6040 projectors


There have been some very good conversations past week or so on various other threads regards calibrating the Epson 5040/6040 for HDR. These threads were... http://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-digital-projectors-under-3-000-usd-msrp/2563857-official-epson-5040ub-6040ub-owners-thread.html...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## bigdad56

I think I've asked this questions before in here but can't seem to find the answer. Where have you all bought new lamps at? Was it difficult to replace yourself? I've got about 1500 hours on mine so it's time to start looking into getting a replacement.

thanks in advance!


----------



## satyab

bigdad56 said:


> I think I've asked this questions before in here but can't seem to find the answer. Where have you all bought new lamps at? Was it difficult to replace yourself? I've got about 1500 hours on mine so it's time to start looking into getting a replacement.
> 
> thanks in advance!


I got mine from B&H, but you should be able to get from Epson although bit expensive. Its fairly easy to follow the steps provided with the replacement bulb.


----------



## Odysea

Savatage316 said:


> Hey guys question, anyone have an issue where you turn it on and the fans come on like normal, the slider opens and then after a bit the fans ramp up a little but the bulb never turns on? It's from 2016, been solid...last night had to turn it on 3 or 4 times to get visual and once on worked perfect as always . But today just not having it, anyone experience anything like this?


How long have you waited for the bulb to go on? My projector has this issue occasionally, but it always turns on eventually and not after too long... couple minutes maximum for sure.

I never thought of it as an issue, I assumed it was something with the cooling/thermals.


----------



## aoaaron

Any 3D calibration settings? My 3D is out of whack colour wise and I have a gamma issue, e.g. on Avengers endgame, all dark details are hidden. need to raise gamma to +2. obviously dont want to increase brightness.


----------



## aoaaron

Evan201 said:


> EVERYONE WITH 3D glasses, go buy this for $15 and use these 3d settings.
> Just amazing.
> 
> 3D Brightness High
> Lamp - High
> 
> ENJOY.
> 
> uploadcertificity.com
> 
> screen shotcertificity.com



buy what?


----------



## Savatage316

Odysea said:


> How long have you waited for the bulb to go on? My projector has this issue occasionally, but it always turns on eventually and not after too long... couple minutes maximum for sure.
> 
> I never thought of it as an issue, I assumed it was something with the cooling/thermals.


Yea that has happened before, but what it's doing now is the fans come on and rev up but the bulb never comes on. It's a newer bulb, wouldn't it go dim for awhile before just totally not turning on?

I mean the more I think I guess it could be the bulb unless someone says otherwise, but I thought bulbs to super dim for awhile before just turning dead. 

I mean I sat for 2 hours turning it on and it comes on every time, just no bulb light.


----------



## deano86

Savatage316 said:


> Yea that has happened before, but what it's doing now is the fans come on and rev up but the bulb never comes on. It's a newer bulb, wouldn't it go dim for awhile before just totally not turning on?
> 
> I mean the more I think I guess it could be the bulb unless someone says otherwise, but I thought bulbs to super dim for awhile before just turning dead.
> 
> I mean I sat for 2 hours turning it on and it comes on every time, just no bulb light.


Swapping out the bulb is always suggested as it is the easiest thing to try.... so it is always worth a shot... but on the other hand, I fear you may have a power supply or ballast problem that may be the cause of your lack of bulb ignition.


----------



## Savatage316

deano86 said:


> Swapping out the bulb is always suggested as it is the easiest thing to try.... so it is always worth a shot... but on the other hand, I fear you may have a power supply or ballast problem that may be the cause of your lack of bulb ignition.


I'll try swapping the bulb out but I agree with you and feel it's something along those lines because the night before it did this it worked and the picture was as good and bright as normal. 

Is swapping in a new power supply something doable for these?


----------



## sddp

This question might be for the JVC thread, but I thought I'd ask you guys since I know some of you have the NX7. I have the 5040EUB on a 150" cinegrey screen and have been waiting years for the new NX gen to come out which most us are already aware of the NZ. Looking at upgrading to the JVC NZ8, I am first and foremost a fan of 3D and while mine is great and when I demo'd it before I bought it, I was sold (at magnolia back in 2016). Wanted to get some of your input and thoughts on what I can expect 3D wise going from the 5040 to the NZ8, Yes I know it' laser and the same lumes as ours. Is it going to be EPICALLY night and day? Far more pop out in a film such as Avatar?


----------



## ryudoadema

aoaaron said:


> buy what?


That post was from 2017...Maybe a high brightness screen or something (Edit: not a screen since it's $15)?

Anyway, 3D brightness=High is bad advice. Cross-talk city. I keep mine at low where there is almost 0 cross-talk in most movies. Medium sometimes when the specific movie is already low in 3d artifacts and is a little dim.


----------



## mrvtec

mrvtec said:


> has anyone treid the new Chromecast 2020 with Google TV, to see if it allows HDR at 24hz when casting, or dose it still lock to 60hz like the older chromecasts


i just got a Chromecast 2020, can confrim you can set 4k 24hz 4:2:0 8Bit, but i have locked mine to 1080/60 444 12bit and enabled match content HDR and its working flawlessly i couldnt tell the diffrence between 4k and 1080p on streaming platforms

Possibly with the Matchframerate feature coming in the Android 12 update we maybe abe to leave the chromecast set to 4k60 and it will choose 4k24 when required


----------



## thecloneranger

well turned on my projector today and i got the message to replace my bulb. where do yall buy your bulbs from? straight from epson or is there a better place. this will be the first time having to replace it

edit: it seems epson is out of stock


----------



## j15big

Help with Epson WirelessHD Transmitter and 5040UBe

I purchased a 5040UBe projector directly from Epson. This model comes with the WirelessHD transmitter. 

Out of the box, I could not get the transmitter to "pair" with the project. I kept getting either "Wireless transmitter not found" or "Error with the Wireless transmitter". I've spoken to Epson support multiple times, but the people I have spoken too don't seem to be very familiar with this topic. They sent me a new transmitter. I still can't get it to work.

I think the issue is that the transmitter is not paired to the projector. But all of the options I've tried don't seem to work.

I'm just hoping someone here has had a similar experience and can offer some tips.

Thanks


----------



## sddp

j15big said:


> Help with Epson WirelessHD Transmitter and 5040UBe
> 
> I purchased a 5040UBe projector directly from Epson. This model comes with the WirelessHD transmitter.
> 
> Out of the box, I could not get the transmitter to "pair" with the project. I kept getting either "Wireless transmitter not found" or "Error with the Wireless transmitter". I've spoken to Epson support multiple times, but the people I have spoken too don't seem to be very familiar with this topic. They sent me a new transmitter. I still can't get it to work.
> 
> I think the issue is that the transmitter is not paired to the projector. But all of the options I've tried don't seem to work.
> 
> I'm just hoping someone here has had a similar experience and can offer some tips.
> 
> Thanks


Is the projector updated to the latest firmware?

is it in the line of sight and not way off to the left or right or if your Projector is ceiling mounted and and the transmitter is on the floor way out of the degrees of range, it won't pick it up.
Not sure how they are not familiar with the Ube, they made it and it's in their data base. maybe a faulty receiver in the projector which is super rare I doubt that is the case. Did you talk to a higher tier or supervisor?


----------



## j15big

sddp said:


> Is the projector updated to the latest firmware?
> 
> is it in the line of sight and not way off to the left or right or if your Projector is ceiling mounted and and the transmitter is on the floor way out of the degrees of range, it won't pick it up.
> Not sure how they are not familiar with the Ube, they made it and it's in their data base. maybe a faulty receiver in the projector which is super rare I doubt that is the case. Did you talk to a higher tier or supervisor?


What I meant was the specific tech I was working with basically told me to press the reset button and when that didn’t work she sent me a new receiver.

I haven’t updated the firmware for the projector. I’m guessing I just plug an Ethernet cable in and update is somewhere in the settings?

I spoke with someone else from Epson today who seemed to know a little more. He had me plug the transmitter to the projector via hdmi and try a few things. However it still didn’t work.

Thank you for the tip on updating I’ll try it and see if it works.


----------



## deano86

j15big said:


> What I meant was the specific tech I was working with basically told me to press the reset button and when that didn’t work she sent me a new receiver.
> 
> I haven’t updated the firmware for the projector. I’m guessing I just plug an Ethernet cable in and update is somewhere in the settings?
> 
> I spoke with someone else from Epson today who seemed to know a little more. He had me plug the transmitter to the projector via hdmi and try a few things. However it still didn’t work.
> 
> Thank you for the tip on updating I’ll try it and see if it works.


Sorry for the dumb question, but does the wireless HDMI transmitter only work with the designated "E" models? If so, is your model an actual "E" model number? Or does the "E" designation just mean that the 5040UB includes the transmitter? And no, you do not update firmware via the ethernet input... that would be too easy... there is a special procedure to follow to the letter and involves putting the firmware on a properly formatted USB stick...


----------



## sddp

deano86 said:


> Sorry for the dumb question, but does the wireless HDMI transmitter only work with the designated "E" models? If so, is your model an actual "E" model number? Or does the "E" designation just mean that the 5040UB includes the transmitter? And no, you do not update firmware via the ethernet input... that would be too easy... there is a special procedure to follow to the letter and involves putting the firmware on a properly formatted USB stick...



ONLY the UBE projector can use a transmitter since it has a built in receiver to receive the signal from the transmitter.


----------



## deano86

sddp said:


> ONLY the UBE projector can use a transmitter since it has a built in receiver to receive the signal from the transmitter.


OK, thanks.. .that makes sense...


----------



## j15big

deano86 said:


> Sorry for the dumb question, but does the wireless HDMI transmitter only work with the designated "E" models? If so, is your model an actual "E" model number? Or does the "E" designation just mean that the 5040UB includes the transmitter? And no, you do not update firmware via the ethernet input... that would be too easy... there is a special procedure to follow to the letter and involves putting the firmware on a properly formatted USB stick...


Not a dumb question. I don't know the answer, but I can tell you the projector I purchased was the 5040UBe and it has wirelesshd in the menu settings. I'm assuming that means I actually did receive the correct version.

I will google how to update the firmware unless anyone has a quick reference.

Thanks for the help, it's appreciated!


----------



## Brian Atlanta

Looking for some help, I have a chance to buy a used 5040 lets say $1100.00 with only 550 hours on the bulb bought new in 2017 from an authorized dealer Proj Central. The owner moved to a house where they could not use it held onto it in case they could move down the road which is not happening at the present time.

I am well aware of the power supply problems which according to Proj Central were fixed in 2017 however there could be dealer stock before they fixed it which means this could be one of those units. So for those who had the power supply problems did they show up right away or at 500 hours or 1000 hours or whatever? I also have read that not all of them had those problems.

Please feel free to tell me and I get the risk buying a used projector anyway that I am crazy to even consider buying a used 5040 without it being a refurb.

Edit: I answered my own question spent some time on the 5040 Power Supply thread and determined since I was not the original owner yes I would be crazy. There were people there who had the issue years after they bought them out of warranty but it appears if they had the slips and were the original owners good for Epson they got replacement projectors.


----------



## thecloneranger

wow thanks for answering my questions fellas went ahead and ordered a replacement bulb . man this place use to be so helpful. now i see theres nothing but douchebags here


----------



## satyab

thecloneranger said:


> wow thanks for answering my questions fellas went ahead and ordered a replacement bulb . man this place use to be so helpful. now i see theres nothing but douchebags here


It’s not that people don’t want to help.. it’s that most of the places we(I) buy are out of stock like Epson site, B&H, Amazon. It would be helpful for others if you can post where you got yours.


----------



## Seanhyatt

If you can please me the settings via pm too @inspector, thank you

I check in here about once a year to see if there are any new settings Or upgrades. Currently using the old projector central settings. I have had a refurbished model that has been trouble free for about three years. I see there was a software version update to 1.14. Does anyone know what the update does? The last update I did fixed the dark HDR issue. What is the best calibration settings for 2021?


----------



## inspector

Seanhyatt said:


> If you can please me the settings via pm too @inspector, thank you
> 
> I check in here about once a year to see if there are any new settings Or upgrades. Currently using the old projector central settings. I have had a refurbished model that has been trouble free for about three years. I see there was a software version update to 1.14. Does anyone know what the update does? The last update I did fixed the dark HDR issue. What is the best calibration settings for 2021?


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## j15big

j15big said:


> Help with Epson WirelessHD Transmitter and 5040UBe
> 
> I purchased a 5040UBe projector directly from Epson. This model comes with the WirelessHD transmitter.
> 
> Out of the box, I could not get the transmitter to "pair" with the project. I kept getting either "Wireless transmitter not found" or "Error with the Wireless transmitter". I've spoken to Epson support multiple times, but the people I have spoken too don't seem to be very familiar with this topic. They sent me a new transmitter. I still can't get it to work.
> 
> I think the issue is that the transmitter is not paired to the projector. But all of the options I've tried don't seem to work.
> 
> I'm just hoping someone here has had a similar experience and can offer some tips.
> 
> Thanks


So it turns out that the projector itself was broken as well as the second transmitter they sent me. Once I got a replacement projector and tested the original transmitter, it worked right away. Seems like they might have a QC problem.


----------



## Savatage316

So I still haven't figured out what's up with mine, it's off and on top its just flashing blue , just a steady blinking blue light and when i power on I get no visual just fans and then the fans rev up, and then it shuts down. So overheating perhaps? Anyone at all have anything similar happen ?


----------



## deano86

Savatage316 said:


> So I still haven't figured out what's up with mine, it's off and on top its just flashing blue , just a steady blinking blue light and when i power on I get no visual just fans and then the fans rev up, and then it shuts down. So overheating perhaps? Anyone at all have anything similar happen ?


Most likely, in your owner's manual .... Under the Solving Problems chapter.. it has a Projector Light Status section where it lists the different combinations of LEDs and their blinking and/or color status. It may provide a clue to what is wrong...


----------



## ba_crane

I’m sure it’s posted but I can’t seem to find it. I have a 5040, denon x3700h, Apple TV 4k and monoprice hdmi 2.1 cables. Apple TV will not allow 10 or 12 bit 4:4:4 chroma in 24Hz. Info tab on projector show 3840x2160, 23.97Hz refresh rate, 8 bit 4:4:4. I was told to make sure to disable menu overlay in the Denon but it was disabled from the beginning. Isn’t there a way to increase to 4:4:4 12 or 10 bit. HDR is turned off in Apple TV, set for 4K SDR 24Hz.


----------



## Technology3456

I heard the Epsons UB models have excellent active 3D, and that they have more brightness than most, so you guys as owners of it might have good experience to answer this question Im having trouble finding answers to. What brightness would you watch for 3D if you could choose any brightness level you wanted for 3D? After the glasses etc take their cut of the pie, what brightness would you choose to have left over if you had zero technological limitations on your Epson 5040UB, if it could project whatever level of brightness you wanted for 3D? I.e. like if you had a high gain screen to make the 5040 even brighter, but only if you would choose that if you could? That's sort of the question. You can answer in either foot lamberts or nits. (There is a converter online if you google for it, just FYI. I can PM anyone the link also if anyone cant find it).


----------



## abraxas

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


 I could use a copy of the latest settings as well. Thanks.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Technology3456 said:


> I heard the Epsons UB models have excellent active 3D, and that they have more brightness than most, so you guys as owners of it might have good experience to answer this question Im having trouble finding answers to. What brightness would you watch for 3D if you could choose any brightness level you wanted for 3D? After the glasses etc take their cut of the pie, what brightness would you choose to have left over if you had zero technological limitations on your Epson 5040UB, if it could project whatever level of brightness you wanted for 3D? I.e. like if you had a high gain screen to make the 5040 even brighter, but only if you would choose that if you could? That's sort of the question. You can answer in either foot lamberts or nits. (There is a converter online if you google for it, just FYI. I can PM anyone the link also if anyone cant find it).


love 3D dynamic on my 5040ub don't have a high gain screen had a Dalite High Power in the past and find the hot spotting and limited viewing angles distracting. The 5040ub has plenty of brightness with a non gain screen IMO.


----------



## inspector

abraxas said:


> I could use a copy of the latest settings as well. Thanks.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## inspector

WynsWrld98 said:


> love 3D dynamic on my 5040ub don't have a high gain screen had a Dalite High Power in the past and find the hot spotting and limited viewing angles distracting. The 5040ub has plenty of brightness with a non gain screen IMO.


I used to have an Epson 9500 with a Da-lite .09 gain screen. It too got the hop spotting. Replaced it with the Epson 6040 and a Da-lite .09 HD Progressive Screen and all is well!


----------



## WynsWrld98

inspector said:


> I used to have an Epson 9500 with a Da-lite .09 gain screen. It too got the hop spotting. Replaced it with the Epson 6040 and a Da-lite .09 HD Progressive Screen and all is well!


I know there are different versions of the Dalite HP screen mine was a very high gain I think over 2


----------



## darryldale

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Care to send another copy?


----------



## inspector

darryldale said:


> Care to send another copy?


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Savatage316

What a nightmare. So my 5040ub is out of warranty, haven't had a single issue until like a week or so ago it doesn't give visual but fans and everything revving up like normal.

I've called epson they have no help for me outside of giving me a list of repairmen and like half of them don't even service PJ'S anymore they say. 

But it's like this is still one hell of a piece of hardware with like no fix, I've babied this thing from day 1. But you don't just toss something like this in the garbage, it's still got life left but I have no way to just take it to a repair person and get it fixed, does anyone have some ideas or have knowledge of what may be going on?

I get a steady blue and then the orange temp and lamp light are flashing in correlation with the blue light. Just power's like normal and fans ramp up.

I'm frustrated because I'd get it fixed but there's like no local places. The goal was to sell it since I'm moving and won't be able to setup a projector as nicely as I did here, and it just pulled this after years of amazing enjoyment. But it's like , I feel stuck and epson is zero help since it's out of warranty.


----------



## tibimakai

Bad bulb, or bad ballast?!


----------



## WynsWrld98

Savatage316 said:


> What a nightmare. So my 5040ub is out of warranty, haven't had a single issue until like a week or so ago it doesn't give visual but fans and everything revving up like normal.
> 
> I've called epson they have no help for me outside of giving me a list of repairmen and like half of them don't even service PJ'S anymore they say.
> 
> But it's like this is still one hell of a piece of hardware with like no fix, I've babied this thing from day 1. But you don't just toss something like this in the garbage, it's still got life left but I have no way to just take it to a repair person and get it fixed, does anyone have some ideas or have knowledge of what may be going on?
> 
> I get a steady blue and then the orange temp and lamp light are flashing in correlation with the blue light. Just power's like normal and fans ramp up.
> 
> I'm frustrated because I'd get it fixed but there's like no local places. The goal was to sell it since I'm moving and won't be able to setup a projector as nicely as I did here, and it just pulled this after years of amazing enjoyment. But it's like , I feel stuck and epson is zero help since it's out of warranty.


Manual tells you what the lights mean I think auto iris error


----------



## jesped2

Does anybody have a good LUT file for MadVR for HDR to SDR conversion?


----------



## Tweakophyte

Hi. Is there a guide as to how to clean this PJ? Thx.


----------



## inspector

Don’t blow any air into it. Blowing out the air filter every couple months is good to do. Wipe the outside very carefully with a soft cloth.

I’ve had mine since May 2017, and that’s how I’ve taken care of mine and it’s still going strong.


----------



## b_scott

I've had my replacement 5040 for about a year (original in June 2020 and then replaced due to fan issues in Oct) and lately it seems very dim. I bought a replacement lamp already but I'm wondering if it's just me or the projector. It has about 2100 hours on it - we watch it about 5 hours a day on average. Before I got to all the trouble of taking it out and apart to replace the bulb, i'm wondering if 2K hours on mostly medium, only high for HDR content (rare), seems like an average lifespan?


----------



## inspector

I just changed out my lamp (in the PJ since May 2017) at 2700 hrs with a lamp that had 4 hours on it. To me it still looks the same. 3D/UHD is on HIGH, BD/SD on MEDIUM.


----------



## b_scott

inspector said:


> I just changed out my lamp (in the PJ since May 2017) at 2700 hrs with a lamp that had 4 hours on it. To me it still looks the same. 3D/UHD is on HIGH, BD/SD on MEDIUM.


thanks I just put my new one in and it seems to look a tad brighter but not crazy. I kept the old one as a backup.


----------



## Odysea

Brings up a good point though, should I be swapping the lamp out at 2,500? I figured I’d wait until it dimmed… is there a reason people swap it before it goes?


----------



## inspector

Yeah, mine was over 4 years old and I thought it was time to pop in a new one.


----------



## b_scott

Odysea said:


> Brings up a good point though, should I be swapping the lamp out at 2,500? I figured I’d wait until it dimmed… is there a reason people swap it before it goes?


none as far as I’m aware. If it doesn’t look dim to you I say let it ride. These are rated to 5k on eco or 3k on medium I think. Age doesn’t matter, only hours used.


----------



## rgraylin

Well my 4.5 year old 5040 wouldn’t power on yesterday, no lights, appears dead. Luckily, EPSON service center only an hour away. Hoping it’s a reasonable repair. Fingers crossed.


----------



## inspector

Good luck and keep us updated.


----------



## Rickw24b

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


I could use a copy of the latest settings as well. Thanks.


----------



## inspector

Rickw24b said:


> I could use a copy of the latest settings as well. Thanks.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## rgraylin

inspector said:


> Good luck and keep us updated.


Heard back. They swapped power supply...not it. So next is to replace mainboard and optics as it's a single unit...$1300. I said to do it as I don't want to buy another projector. :-(


----------



## inspector

Damn, that's a few bucks! Hopefully it'll come back better than ever!


----------



## jbnpaul

rgraylin said:


> Heard back. They swapped power supply...not it. So next is to replace mainboard and optics as it's a single unit...$1300. I said to do it as I don't want to buy another projector. :-(


At that cost I would buy a new projector.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

jbnpaul said:


> At that cost I would buy a new projector.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What are you buying for $1300 that has the capabilities of the 5040?


----------



## jbnpaul

WynsWrld98 said:


> What are you buying for $1300 that has the capabilities of the 5040?


I would get a brand new 5050(at double the cost) with a new warrenty and new components than throwing money at fixing 5040 at this rate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## deano86

jbnpaul said:


> I would get a brand new 5050(at double the cost) with a new warrenty and new components than throwing money at fixing 5040 at this rate.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


ya... not to mention, does Epson offer a warranty on that $1300 worth of repairs? I would instead purchase the pro 4040 on the Epson clearance center for $999.. which comes with a 3 year warranty. Now, it may not have the exact UB panels that the 5040 has, but I find its black level performance to be really very good... better than the Panasonic 8000 I moved on from..... and I have a batcave theater room. I have had the pro 4040 since January and have put on 750 hours and I am thrilled with its performance so far...


----------



## Brian Atlanta

rgraylin said:


> Heard back. They swapped power supply...not it. So next is to replace mainboard and optics as it's a single unit...$1300. I said to do it as I don't want to buy another projector. :-(


What was the part number for that replacement probably not the same but I am going back and forth on a used one who just had this "PCB ASSY - MAB - (B1000)" replaced cost him $850 from an authorized epson repair dealer out of Atlanta.


----------



## paranikas

Seanhyatt said:


> can please me the settings via pm too @inspector, thank you
> 
> I check in here about once a year to see if there are any new settings Or upgrades. Currently using the old projector central settings. I have had a refurbished model that has been trouble free for about three years. I see there was a software version update to 1.14. Does anyone know what the update does? The last update I did fixed the dark HDR issue. What is the best calibration settings for 2021?





inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


If you’d be kind enough to also send me the settings Ι’d appreciate it!


----------



## inspector

PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Duckduckjuice

Hi can someone provide me best HDR/SDR settings for gaming? Ideally don't want to use high lamp power. 6040ub projector.


----------



## Jungle

Well, for those wondering how current quality looks for 5040 refurbs it's still a losing game of roulette. They are very nice about taking them back but haven't been able to deliver a working unit yet.

Had my first projector develop a solid blue section over about 5% of the screen (top to bottom) after about a year and a half (originally purchased as refurb).









Replacement number one had a large green circle (dust blob?) in the middle of the screen.









So that one went back. Replacement number 2 had same issue - smaller but brighter green spot









So, that one is going back too. They are supposedly having someone at the warehouse confirm a good unit before shipping this one (I'm skeptical). So the wheel will likely keep spinning.

Did anyone have luck getting them to eventually replace with new stock? I guess in this case it would have to be an upgrade to a 5050 since the 5040 is no longer for sale new.


----------



## inspector

That's the ****s!


----------



## WynsWrld98

Jungle said:


> Well, for those wondering how current quality looks for 5040 refurbs it's still a losing game of roulette. They are very nice about taking them back but haven't been able to deliver a working unit yet.
> 
> Had my first projector develop a solid blue section over about 5% of the screen (top to bottom) after about a year and a half (originally purchased as refurb).
> 
> View attachment 3189759
> 
> 
> Replacement number one had a large green circle (dust blob?) in the middle of the screen.
> 
> View attachment 3189760
> 
> 
> So that one went back. Replacement number 2 had same issue - smaller but brighter green spot
> 
> View attachment 3189761
> 
> 
> So, that one is going back too. They are supposedly having someone at the warehouse confirm a good unit before shipping this one (I'm skeptical). So the wheel will likely keep spinning.
> 
> Did anyone have luck getting them to eventually replace with new stock? I guess in this case it would have to be an upgrade to a 5050 since the 5040 is no longer for sale new.


Your post makes me never want to buy a refurb from Epson pathetic quality control. I will buy new only based on your and other posts and if mine breaks send it in for repair vs sending me a likely faulty refurb.


----------



## lawdogx

Getting the most out of a 5040ub, part 1

I've had a 5040ub for about three years now and have been happy with it. However, since installing it I have been very focused on audio. I've been building and adding speakers and subs (and then more and more subs ...), and dialing everything in. AVS is a great resource and the audio in my theater blows me away. On the video side of things I really just rough-aligned it, played with settings a bit, and just watched it. It was very nice and I didn't think about it much. Last month my lamp died (1485hrs) and, as I was replacing it, I decided it was time to squeeze some more performance out of the video side of things. So I googled, searched, and read everything I could find on this projector and how to optimize it. I have not yet done any calibration, just getting the best signal and picture with basically stock settings. Long story short, I've probably been watching everything in poorly-optimized SDR for the past three years! What I changed:

1. Properly centering and aligning the projector. My old mount was a Sanus that was screwed into a ceiling joist with two screws. It was too high (I have 12 foot ceilings) and a foot off-center, and right on the line of being too close to the screen. So, I did some blocking in the attic between joists and installed an excellent Chief mount, dead center, back a bit, and using a two foot drop pole to lower it. I was previously at the very limit of lens shift and the projector had to be tilted down. I'm not sure how much all of this, in and of itself, improved my image, but it in conjunction with the next change the difference was quite noticeable:

2. Turning off keystone. Since my projector was too high I had to tilt it downward causing the image to turn into a bit of a trapezoid. Out of ignorance I corrected this by using keystone. Having properly aligned my projector I was able to turn this off - immediate improvement in image quality!

3. Cleaning up my signal chain. I use a Sony X800m2 Blu-ray player, an Apple TV 4k, and an Xfinity cable box, all going through a Denon 4400 on the way to my PJ. Every piece of the chain defaulted to mess with and color the video signal in some way. I turned off upscaling on everything and turned off all the picture modes and manipulations. My sources are usually 4K UHD discs or UHD streaming on Netflix, Amazon, or HBOMax, so just passing the signal through without manipulation prior to the PJ was another big improvement.

4. Specific device settings. Denon receivers have a few sneaky little default settings that are buried in the menus but have big impacts on what you see and hear. I think I found and killed all the hidden audio compression settings, but on the video side of things one little adjustment made a pretty big impact - setting the 4K signal format to "ENHANCED." On the Apple TV 4K, the settings that worked best for me are: 4K SDR format; YCbCr HDMI Output; and Match Range and Rate both ON. I initially set chroma to 4:4:4 but it resulted in HDR content being unwatchably dark. Switching to 4:2:0 instantly corrected this (must be a 10.2gbps thing).

The difference? I'm now getting 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR on the projector menu on all my UHD sources and the image looks fantastic. I'm amazed at how much performance I was able to pick up just by tweaking a few settings. I don't know what I was getting before (I didn't know previously that there was a projector info menu that showed that) but it sure didn't look like it does now! I find myself saying "wow" out loud sometimes while watching 4k movies.

I'm on to optimizing the PJ itself next ... I apologize in advance for the stupid questions to come.


----------



## inspector

Wow...didn't read all. But...I will send you my setting for this PJ including, and you have to by a Panny 420, to make this PJ really shine for UHD discs. Try these settings ...what have you got lose...I 've been using them for a few year.


----------



## inspector

lawdogx said:


> Getting the most out of a 5040ub, part 1
> 
> I've had a 5040ub for about three years now and have been happy with it. However, since installing it I have been very focused on audio. I've been building and adding speakers and subs (and then more and more subs ...), and dialing everything in. AVS is a great resource and the audio in my theater blows me away. On the video side of things I really just rough-aligned it, played with settings a bit, and just watched it. It was very nice and I didn't think about it much. Last month my lamp died (1485hrs) and, as I was replacing it, I decided it was time to squeeze some more performance out of the video side of things. So I googled, searched, and read everything I could find on this projector and how to optimize it. I have not yet done any calibration, just getting the best signal and picture with basically stock settings. Long story short, I've probably been watching everything in poorly-optimized SDR for the past three years! What I changed:
> 
> 1. Properly centering and aligning the projector. My old mount was a Sanus that was screwed into a ceiling joist with two screws. It was too high (I have 12 foot ceilings) and a foot off-center, and right on the line of being too close to the screen. So, I did some blocking in the attic between joists and installed an excellent Chief mount, dead center, back a bit, and using a two foot drop pole to lower it. I was previously at the very limit of lens shift and the projector had to be tilted down. I'm not sure how much all of this, in and of itself, improved my image, but it in conjunction with the next change the difference was quite noticeable:
> 
> 2. Turning off keystone. Since my projector was too high I had to tilt it downward causing the image to turn into a bit of a trapezoid. Out of ignorance I corrected this by using keystone. Having properly aligned my projector I was able to turn this off - immediate improvement in image quality!
> 
> 3. Cleaning up my signal chain. I use a Sony X800m2 Blu-ray player, an Apple TV 4k, and an Xfinity cable box, all going through a Denon 4400 on the way to my PJ. Every piece of the chain defaulted to mess with and color the video signal in some way. I turned off upscaling on everything and turned off all the picture modes and manipulations. My sources are usually 4K UHD discs or UHD streaming on Netflix, Amazon, or HBOMax, so just passing the signal through without manipulation prior to the PJ was another big improvement.
> 
> 4. Specific device settings. Denon receivers have a few sneaky little default settings that are buried in the menus but have big impacts on what you see and hear. I think I found and killed all the hidden audio compression settings, but on the video side of things one little adjustment made a pretty big impact - setting the 4K signal format to "ENHANCED." On the Apple TV 4K, the settings that worked best for me are: 4K SDR format; YCbCr HDMI Output; and Match Range and Rate both ON. I initially set chroma to 4:4:4 but it resulted in HDR content being unwatchably dark. Switching to 4:2:0 instantly corrected this (must be a 10.2gbps thing).
> 
> The difference? I'm now getting 12 bit 4:2:2 BT.2020 HDR on the projector menu on all my UHD sources and the image looks fantastic. I'm amazed at how much performance I was able to pick up just by tweaking a few settings. I don't know what I was getting before (I didn't know previously that there was a projector info menu that showed that) but it sure didn't look like it does now! I find myself saying "wow" out loud sometimes while watching 4k movies.
> 
> I'm on to optimizing the PJ itself next ... I apologize in advance for the stupid questions to come.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## inspector

...and I've given these settings to quite a few AVS members.


----------



## lawdogx

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Thank you, I’ll check those out!


----------



## john hunter

Will be interested in your experiences with Super White. On or off?
You seem to have to play with that and your gamma setting to get the best detail in black level.
I've tried tons of settings but now let the UB 420 do the heavy lifting and use very slightly modified default setting on the PJ.
Have fun!!!


----------



## Ruck777

inspector said:


> ...and I've given these settings to quite a few AVS members.


Can you please send me these settings?

thanks


----------



## Ruckdogg7

inspector said:


> ...and I've given these settings to quite a few AVS members.


Can you send me these settings?


----------



## Ruckdogg7

How to you setup the HDFury/Linker with the 5040? What settings do you use? I have an Appletv, 4K blu ray player, and a PS5. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## inspector

Ruckdogg7 said:


> How to you setup the HDFury/Linker with the 5040? What settings do you use? I have an Appletv, 4K blu ray player, and a PS5. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## PGA1

inspector said:


> Wow...didn't read all. But...I will send you my setting for this PJ including, and you have to by a Panny 420, to make this PJ really shine for UHD discs. Try these settings ...what have you got lose...I 've been using them for a few year.


Just got a Panny 420 to go with my Epson TW9300, would love if you could also send me the settings your using. Thanks


----------



## inspector

PGA1 said:


> Just got a Panny 420 to go with my Epson TW9300, would love if you could also send me the settings your using. Thanks


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## William Cook

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


I have the 6040UB and I am using a Panny DPUB9000. But, I am not using a linker. Could yo please send your settings to me? Thanks


----------



## inspector

William Cook said:


> I have the 6040UB and I am using a Panny DPUB9000. But, I am not using a linker. Could yo please send your settings to me? Thanks


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Vinsanityms3

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Would love to see your settings too if you get the chance. Have played around with a few different ones over the 4yr I've owned the 5040.


----------



## inspector

Vinsanityms3 said:


> Would love to see your settings too if you get the chance. Have played around with a few different ones over the 4yr I've owned the 5040.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## masterchubba

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Hi could I get a copy of these setting as well? My 5040ub came used and seemed to have a dull look ever since I got it. And now I see a green outline around anything that is white on screen. It is especially apparent around subtitles and black and white movies anyone have any idea what could be the cause? Im betting I'm gonna have to send for repairs.


----------



## inspector

PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## deano86

masterchubba said:


> Hi could I get a copy of these setting as well? My 5040ub came used and seemed to have a dull look ever since I got it. And now I see a green outline around anything that is white on screen. It is especially apparent around subtitles and black and white movies anyone have any idea what could be the cause?


Have you checked your panel alignment? Find the procedure in your manual.. and I bet you will be able to make it look much better..


----------



## masterchubba

deano86 said:


> Have you checked your panel alignment? Find the procedure in your manual.. and I bet you will be able to make it look much better..


I did try an alignment to no avail. If anything it was better in some ways and worse in others. And it has gotten more noticeable over time. If the panel was misaligned to begin with when i got it then it shouldn't have gotten worse right? Perhaps i should try again and spend more time with it but i think its unlikely to fix it. Someone told me it could be a burnt polarizer or something like that.


----------



## gordon.lam

inspector said:


> Wow...didn't read all. But...I will send you my setting for this PJ including, and you have to by a Panny 420, to make this PJ really shine for UHD discs. Try these settings ...what have you got lose...I 've been using them for a few year.


Hi, just picked up the panny 420 and keen to tweak my settings too. Please kindly PM your settings please!


----------



## inspector

gordon.lam said:


> Hi, just picked up the panny 420 and keen to tweak my settings too. Please kindly PM your settings please!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## jtenn

So I saw on the Epson website there is a firmware update for the 6040. It’s v1.14. This is what my projector shows for the firmware currently installed on it. Is this the most recent firmware?


----------



## inspector

Yes


----------



## deano86

masterchubba said:


> I did try an alignment to no avail. If anything it was better in some ways and worse in others. And it has gotten more noticeable over time. If the panel was misaligned to begin with when i got it then it shouldn't have gotten worse right? Perhaps i should try again and spend more time with it but i think its unlikely to fix it. Someone told me it could be a burnt polarizer or something like that.


Well, how did the panel alignment crosshatch pattern look after you performed the alignment procedures?... you performed all the adjustments correct? IIRC, the basic middle adjustment, the corners adjustment and then all the individual location square adjustments for both red and blue....if the crosshatch pattern looks nice and white at all the intersections, then ya, something else is probably amiss with your unit. You should't be seeing obvious red or blue color bloom after adjustment on this pattern...


----------



## inspector

Here's a question. I have 2 settings that are almost identical, one is for use of BDs and one for UHD. When I change the DYNAMIC RANGE to AUTO in the BD Setting, it also changes it in the UHD setting. Even if you go into SAVE SETTING in either BD or UHD, and overwrite old setting it will still show from the last setting.

Play UHD setting for DR and it shows HDR1, play BD setting and it shows HDR1 and vice versa.

How can I over come this, if I expained if myself clearly enough?


----------



## masterchubba

deano86 said:


> Well, how did the panel alignment crosshatch pattern look after you performed the alignment procedures?... you performed all the adjustments correct? IIRC, the basic middle adjustment, the corners adjustment and then all the individual location square adjustments for both red and blue....if the crosshatch pattern looks nice and white at all the intersections, then ya, something else is probably amiss with your unit. You should't be seeing obvious red or blue color bloom after adjustment on this pattern...


Yeah I seem to see color bleed no matter how I adjust it. red bleed is especially noticeable on the left parts of the screen and on the right is a little blue bleed. Do you know where I could go for repairs? send back to Epson? I did buy this off someone on Ebay 9 months ago and everything seemed good at first besides a single green pixel that was barely visible.


----------



## xbladr

So I picked up my 5040 in May of 2019. I recently started to see a faint line of green/blue
















horizontal in the middle of my screen. It is only when the projector is in peak brightness I.e. Dynamic mode. I will attach a couple pictures. I am of course out of warranty by a few months. Has anyone run into this or have any thoughts? 
Bulb has 4000 hours 95 percent of the time in eco mode. Does this on both hdmi ports does not matter which. 

ANY thoughts?


----------



## inspector

Try one of the other film modes, if you like I could send you want I use, maybe you won’t see it?
.


----------



## jtenn

inspector said:


> Yes


Thank you.


----------



## ruggercb

We’ll, it was a 4 year run, but tonight my 5040 won’t turn on, no lights, no nothing. This one is a replacement because the first one I bought failed in a couple of months. The replacement was a brand new unit.

So, I’m out of warranty. Do I call the same number to Epson and deal with them, or do I have to find a service location? Everything will have to be done remotely anyway, I’m hundreds of miles from any decent size city. 

Such a bummer, I love this PJ.


----------



## inspector

I’d see what Epson has to say. If not, I’d see if you can find another 5040/6040. If that fails then on to the 5050/6050.


----------



## inspector

Just googled and there are quite a few for sale.


----------



## masterchubba

inspector said:


> Just googled and there are quite a few for sale.


Yes but nothing at a good price it seems. Do these go on sale on black friday?


----------



## ruggercb

inspector said:


> I’d see what Epson has to say. If not, I’d see if you can find another 5040/6040. If that fails then on to the 5050/6050.


They did me a solid. I’m getting a one time out of warranty free refurbished replacement. I was about 3 months away from the deadline. Apparently they honor a power supply issue up to 5 years from the original purchase. Here’s hoping it’s in as good of shape as the one I’m sending in!


----------



## Jungle

Jungle said:


> Well, for those wondering how current quality looks for 5040 refurbs it's still a losing game of roulette. They are very nice about taking them back but haven't been able to deliver a working unit yet.
> 
> Had my first projector develop a solid blue section over about 5% of the screen (top to bottom) after about a year and a half (originally purchased as refurb).
> 
> View attachment 3189759
> 
> 
> Replacement number one had a large green circle (dust blob?) in the middle of the screen.
> 
> View attachment 3189760
> 
> 
> So that one went back. Replacement number 2 had same issue - smaller but brighter green spot
> 
> View attachment 3189761
> 
> 
> So, that one is going back too. They are supposedly having someone at the warehouse confirm a good unit before shipping this one (I'm skeptical). So the wheel will likely keep spinning.
> 
> Did anyone have luck getting them to eventually replace with new stock? I guess in this case it would have to be an upgrade to a 5050 since the 5040 is no longer for sale new.


Just to follow up. I did receive my 3rd replacement today and it had been checked (there was a note included in the box showing who checked it and when). So far it is much better than the others - no issues with dust blobs. Focus uniformity looks good. Maybe some minor color uniformity issues but nothing that would impact normal viewing I don't think. Will put it through the paces tonight since I don't have a light controlled room but this looks like a likely keeper.

I wish it didn't take as many tries to get it right but ultimately Epson took care of the issue. On a positive note, they never gave me any trouble about doing replacements once they saw the pictures.


----------



## ruggercb

I got my refurb, looks and acts like a new projector! I was really dreading playing the refurb roulette, but it seems they sent me a really nice one. Hope it lasts till I can afford one of those hdmi 2.1 laser Epsons.


----------



## Morphx2

Anyone have nice HDR settings to use with the Nvidia shield? It's not in a pitch black room


----------



## Morphx2

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


I guess I shall try your settings too if you would like to send them.


----------



## inspector

Morphx2 said:


> I guess I shall try your settings too if you would like to send them.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## masterchubba

Morphx2 said:


> Anyone have nice HDR settings to use with the Nvidia shield? It's not in a pitch black room


If you're using HDR in a room without any light control it's pretty much useless. It's going to be dark looking even with light control. The 5040 just can't get bright enough. That's why I try to use Madvr when watching a film in HDR.


----------



## Morphx2

masterchubba said:


> If you're using HDR in a room without any light control it's pretty much useless. It's going to be dark looking even with light control. The 5040 just can't get bright enough. That's why I try to use Madvr when watching a film in HDR.


I figured that. Too much work to lug my computer downstairs for a movie. I don't think there is a way to cast it


----------



## masterchubba

Morphx2 said:


> I figured that. Too much work to lug my computer downstairs for a movie. I don't think there is a way to cast it


I had a similar issue. I recently just bought a 50ft flat HDMI and just clipped it along the ceiling. Don't know about casting but I am sure there would be a delay.


----------



## b_scott

if there is anyone here using miliskin white spandex as a screen in a dark room, would you might posting your HDR settings? I'm trying to dial it in but I feel like it's still too dim - yet when I raise gamma or brightness it washes it out too much.


----------



## masterchubba

b_scott said:


> if there is anyone here using miliskin white spandex as a screen in a dark room, would you might posting your HDR settings? I'm trying to dial it in but I feel like it's still too dim - yet when I raise gamma or brightness it washes it out too much.


Your best bet is to just turn HDR off and watch in SDR. Or use Madvr to process your HDR content.


----------



## b_scott

masterchubba said:


> Your best bet is to just turn HDR off and watch in SDR. Or use Madvr to process your HDR content.


I've turned off HDR, but I'm trying to calibrate HDR which is why I'm asking. And I am not going to run on a PC, I'm using a Shield TV Pro.


----------



## Dave Harper

b_scott said:


> if there is anyone here using miliskin white spandex as a screen in a dark room, would you might posting your HDR settings? I'm trying to dial it in but I feel like it's still too dim - yet when I raise gamma or brightness it washes it out too much.


I used some white spandex here with a Samsung LSP9T and got great results. It really helped with alleviating laser sparkle/speckle too, although not an issue with a 5040. 

I ran the LSP9T in Game Mode for HDR, using RGB Low signals from my AppleTV. I set the contrast around 47, brightness at default, ST2084 curve was at -3 because I use an HDFury Vertex2 for LLDV Dolby Vision and dynamic tone mapping from the source (a la’ what MadVR and Lumagen bring) and that has Custom HDR Max Luminance setting to 10,000 nits, and Dolby Vision Data Block at 1,000 nits. I used Native color gamut as well. 

The image was MORE than bright enough and looked incredible with these settings. So much so that I’m contemplating using the spandex full time and selling my Stewart StudioTek 130 screen! Mostly so I can use it as an acoustically transparent screen with my speakers behind it, but also because I lose basically nothing in image quality.

Not sure how it’ll translate to the Epson, but since you don’t want to use a PC I figured I’d share my experience with the HDFURY in case it helps here.


----------



## jbnpaul

Can you please post a picture of how your screen looks in a dark room and then with some light?

I am interested in selling how and where the reflections go when used with a spandex screen.

I have a silver screen from silverticket and 5040. We recently tried a no name ultra short throw which my friend brought in. That projector was was very low quality but we could literally see the reflections on the ceiling which we thought were due to the screen + short throw combo .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

jbnpaul said:


> Can you please post a picture of how your screen looks in a dark room and then with some light?
> 
> I am interested in selling how and where the reflections go when used with a spandex screen.
> 
> I have a silver screen from silverticket and 5040. We recently tried a no name ultra short throw which my friend brought in. That projector was was very low quality but we could literally see the reflections on the ceiling which we thought were due to the screen + short throw combo .
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you’re asking me this question, I no longer have it setup on the spandex. I have it in a temp setup in my living room after just moving in so it’s just being thrown onto the wall until it sells with my HarperVision settings and an HDFURY included, so it’s not worth getting a screen for it.


----------



## rgraylin

inspector said:


> Good luck and keep us updated.


Got my projector back 11/12. Took 2 weeks to get parts and complete repair. As mentioned prior, total was $1300, however repair shop installed new filter and new bulb. Prior I had a non-OEM bulb...  

Before I had to take it in (was completely dead, no power) I had dust blobs on upper right quarter of screen and in general projector seemed dimmer than when it was new (replaced bulb last year). No one else could see dust blobs and dimming but I could. So far the projector is dust free and is way brighter than before, bright cinema for NFL games is to bright now. I wonder if the main board going was causing the picture to start dimming...I thought it was just HDR.

Yes, I spent $1300 to fix it but it's like new and hope to get another 4.5 years out of it.

BTW, I force the projector to 1080p (via FireTV) as it can do 12bit 4:4:4 60Hz. I prefer this picture as didn't notice much of a difference with 4K interpolation. The only bad is that every once in a while my FireTV resets back to 4K.


----------



## WynsWrld98

rgraylin said:


> Got my projector back 11/12. Took 2 weeks to get parts and complete repair. As mentioned prior, total was $1300, however repair shop installed new filter and new bulb. Prior I had a non-OEM bulb...
> 
> Before I had to take it in (was completely dead, no power) I had dust blobs on upper right quarter of screen and in general projector seemed dimmer than when it was new (replaced bulb last year). No one else could see dust blobs and dimming but I could. So far the projector is dust free and is way brighter than before, bright cinema for NFL games is to bright now. I wonder if the main board going was causing the picture to start dimming...I thought it was just HDR.
> 
> Yes, I spent $1300 to fix it but it's like new and hope to get another 4.5 years out of it.
> 
> BTW, I force the projector to 1080p (via FireTV) as it can do 12bit 4:4:4 60Hz. I prefer this picture as didn't notice much of a difference with 4K interpolation. The only bad is that every once in a while my FireTV resets back to 4K.


You took it into a local Epson authorized repair shop vs shipping it? Where did you take it exactly?


----------



## rgraylin

WynsWrld98 said:


> You took it into a local Epson authorized repair shop vs shipping it? Where did you take it exactly?


Took to Denver CO Epson authorized repair center, I'm local so drove it there.


----------



## madermat

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


what are these settings everyone is asking for? I am still using harper vision if you dont mind i would like to take a look.thanks


----------



## inspector

I'


rgraylin said:


> Got my projector back 11/12. Took 2 weeks to get parts and complete repair. As mentioned prior, total was $1300, however repair shop installed new filter and new bulb. Prior I had a non-OEM bulb...
> 
> Before I had to take it in (was completely dead, no power) I had dust blobs on upper right quarter of screen and in general projector seemed dimmer than when it was new (replaced bulb last year). No one else could see dust blobs and dimming but I could. So far the projector is dust free and is way brighter than before, bright cinema for NFL games is to bright now. I wonder if the main board going was causing the picture to start dimming...I thought it was just HDR.
> 
> Yes, I spent $1300 to fix it but it's like new and hope to get another 4.5 years out of it.
> 
> BTW, I force the projector to 1080p (via FireTV) as it can do 12bit 4:4:4 60Hz. I prefer this picture as didn't notice much of a difference with 4K interpolation. The only bad is that every once in a while my FireTV resets back to 4K.



I'll have to see what I do when I stream a 4K movie thru the 4 Stick.


----------



## inspector

inspector said:


> I'
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to see what I do when I stream a 4K movie thru the 4 Stick.





madermat said:


> what are these settings everyone is asking for? I am still using harper vision if you dont mind i would like to take a look.thanks


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Tyrober

Trying to decide between this or going for the consensus better choice in the NX5. Room will not be pitch black but pretty dim. Main listening position will be 16 feet away. Is the NX5 worth the extra money or will I not notice the difference in pixel shifting vs true 4K with some light in the room as well as being 16 feet away from the screen. Thanks


----------



## masterchubba

Tyrober said:


> Trying to decide between this or going for the consensus better choice in the NX5. Room will not be pitch black but pretty dim. Main listening position will be 16 feet away. Is the NX5 worth the extra money or will I not notice the difference in pixel shifting vs true 4K with some light in the room as well as being 16 feet away from the screen. Thanks


To be honest I don't even notice a difference between pixel shifting on or off on my 5040ub. I have a 130 inch screen and sit 7 ft away. I thought my projector was defective until I went up real close and set my camera on a tripod to take a pic of the pixel structure before and after. I noticed a slight difference in the structure only because of the picture but no discernable difference in my chair.


----------



## inspector

masterchubba said:


> To be honest I don't even notice a difference between pixel shifting on or off on my 5040ub. I have a 130 inch screen and sit 7 ft away. I thought my projector was defective until I went up real close and set my camera on a tripod to take a pic of the pixel structure before and after. I noticed a slight difference in the structure only because of the picture but no discernable difference in my chair.


Wow…7 feet. I’m at 11 feet from my 110”. Are you turning your head left to right constantly during viewing?


----------



## jerryyng

ruggercb said:


> We’ll, it was a 4 year run, but tonight my 5040 won’t turn on, no lights, no nothing. This one is a replacement because the first one I bought failed in a couple of months. The replacement was a brand new unit.
> 
> So, I’m out of warranty. Do I call the same number to Epson and deal with them, or do I have to find a service location? Everything will have to be done remotely anyway, I’m hundreds of miles from any decent size city.
> 
> Such a bummer, I love this PJ.


Same exact situation here with my 5040 which is just over 4 years old. Disappointing since my unit has seen very little usage over the past two years and was used only a few hours on the weekends the previous two years. The power supply seems to be a known issue with the 5040. Hopefully Epson offers to replace with a free refurbished unit.


----------



## Dave Harper

madermat said:


> what are these settings everyone is asking for? *I am still using harper vision *if you dont mind i would like to take a look.thanks


Use me and abuse me, baby!!!


----------



## pglover19

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Can you PM me your settings as well.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## andresson lemos

hi.., my epson 4040 projector, purchased in november 2018, in august 2021, had a sudden death issue, logic board burning.

Epson fixed it, but on November 1, 2021, it started having a problem again. My projector's warranty now ends on November 15, 2021, and I've seen you and some people here on the forum are getting repairs or even replacements.

The first time(7/17/2021) the failure was total, when I went to watch a movie, I tried to turn it on and nothing, no light, totally dead. The second time (11/01/2021) time, I was in the middle of a movie, the projector simply turned off, when I turned it on, it had gone back to factory settings and the hdmi inputs didn't work.


Anyone who got repair or replacement out of warranty could give me more details via messages, with some documentation that Epson sent to you, because I will charge Epson for an extension of the warranty or replacement of the device, and your testimony would help me.


----------



## andresson lemos

It is noteworthy that my projector is little used, I only use it for weekend movies. At the first failure, at 2 years and 7 months, he was at 340 hours. In the second failure on 11/1/2021, at the age of 3, he was 40 hours old. That is to say, if it had had the most severe use, surely the failure would have been present long before.


----------



## pglover19

Inspector.. Can you please send me your settings for the 5040ub projector. I have a Nvidia Shied pro (latest version) and Apple TV (latest version). Which device can these settings be used on? Is one device better than the other when using with the 5040ub projector?


----------



## madermat

Dave Harper said:


> Use me and abuse me, baby!!!


No way your settings have been great just always looking to see what others have found .


----------



## inspector

madermat said:


> No way your settings have been great just always looking to see what others have found .


Actually, Dave has been a godsent to us. His settings gave us a foundation and I have used all of his and tweeked some to my satisfaction.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

inspector said:


> Actually, Dave has been a godsent to us. His settings gave us a foundation and I have used all of his and tweeked some to my satisfaction.


Hi I've been away from AVS for the last 3years as it became quite an expensive obsession. I had to convinced myself that everything was finally right both sound and image wise. I did have to start reviewing my system lately after I found a great deal to had some TT and found myself coming here again. Last time I was here there was a PDF with Dave's, Oledurt and some more settings. Is this still a thing ? I recently upgraded my PJ firmware and I find that the picture is not as bright as it used to be before (lamp hours taken into account).


Thanks


----------



## inspector

The_Forth_Man said:


> Hi I've been away from AVS for the last 3years as it became quite an expensive obsession. I had to convinced myself that everything was finally right both sound and image wise. I did have to start reviewing my system lately after I found a great deal to had some TT and found myself coming here again. Last time I was here there was a PDF with Dave's, Oledurt and some more settings. Is this still a thing ? I recently upgraded my PJ firmware and I find that the picture is not as bright as it used to be before (lamp hours taken into account).
> 
> 
> Thanks


I just sent you my settings.


----------



## inspector

PM sent Enjoy!


----------



## Dave Harper

madermat said:


> No way your settings have been great just always looking to see what others have found .


You may have misunderstood my saying. It was a good thing. 



inspector said:


> Actually, Dave has been a godsent to us. His settings gave us a foundation and I have used all of his and tweeked some to my satisfaction.


I’m glad I was able to help at the time. 

Now if you want even more impressive performance, ask me about what we are doing with the HDFURY products to display Dolby Vision/LLDV with dynamic tone mapping on otherwise non-Dolby Vision capable projectors and displays!


----------



## inspector

Tell us Dave, tell us!!!


----------



## pglover19

Can someone please post there Nvidia Shield TV pro settings being used with the Epson 5040ub projector. 

Thanks


----------



## madermat

Yes don"t leave us hanging always looking to get a little more out if the 5040


----------



## inspector

pglover19 said:


> Can someone please post there Nvidia Shield TV pro settings being used with the Epson 5040ub projector.
> 
> Thanks


Reading a **** load of previous posts!


----------



## pglover19

Can you stream youtube tv and philo on the panasonic ub420 player?


----------



## pglover19

The issue that I have is that I don't have a 4K receiver so I'm unable to passthrough 4K from the 5040ub projector to the nvidia shield pro (latest version). What options do I have besides purchasing a new receiver? I need to stream Youtube TV, Philo, and Amazon Prime Video.


----------



## Dave Harper

inspector said:


> Tell us Dave, tell us!!!


I’d start here with the first few pages to get an idea of what this is and what you need, but then I’d skip to like the last 10 pages or more to get the latest info and settings after more than a year of tweaking and discoveries. 









Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? This is a HDFury DV LLDV EDID exploit of the Dolby Vision Profile 5 layer included in the DV spec for display manufacturers and models like the Sony A1 OLED. This thread is duplicating Dave's experience using the HDFury Vertex...




www.avsforum.com





Let me know if you have any questions. By now it’s WAY easier than it probably sounds when reading about it.


----------



## blubbers

How do you guys find the 5050UB’s motion handling?

also would someone mind PMingtheir settings? Thanks so much!!


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Hey guys, first I would like to thank @inspector for is setting I haven’t tried them all yet but I must say that on my unit in my room the UHD does a great job.

I recently bought NHL 2021 for PlayStation (ps4 game played on ps5 disk) and tried to play yesterday. But the picture is so damn bright. I reset my natural setting put my lamp in eco (almost 1800hrs) and still unplayable. Anybody having some thoughts on this ?


----------



## Dirt9

^^^ You could go into advanced setting and adjust the iris down.


----------



## Dirt9

What specs do movie theater projectors have to get smooth motion?
I'm trying to figure out exactly what tech the 5040 is lacking for motion and what to look for when shopping for a new projector.
I'm not talking about frame interpolation. When you see a movie at the theater the camera pans are smooth,detailed and natural looking. With the 5040 the camera pans and people's faces are blurry with no detail.


----------



## madermat

Not sure what they do but my sony 45es is way better at motion then the epson 5040


----------



## inspector

blubbers said:


> How do you guys find the 5050UB’s motion handling?
> 
> also would someone mind PMingtheir settings? Thanks so much!!


Didn't see your post until now.PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## sddp

Any here upgrading to the new JVC NZ 8K laser projectors?


----------



## ntbm3

inspector said:


> Didn't see your post until now.PM sent. Enjoy!


 I am interested as well! I have a 5050UB.

Thanks!


----------



## Stephen Hopkins

I have an XBox Series S on the way and have an Epson 4000 (same HDMI limitations as the 5040ub). Is 1080p HDR possible from the Series S, either in 60 or 120fps? Or is 4K60 SDR the best I can do? I'm not looking to spend more on an external EDID solution for 4K60 8bit HDR, just looking to make the most of what the two can do natively together.


----------



## inspector

ntbm3 said:


> I am interested as well! I have a 5050UB.
> 
> Thanks!


My settings are only for 5040/6040, sorry.


----------



## Superman2

inspector said:


> PM sent Enjoy!


Hi, I got your settings back in Jan. I’m using a 4010, anything new since then??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tibimakai

I'm curious about the issues this pj has, it is a logic board, or a power supply board issue?


----------



## inspector

Superman2 said:


> Hi, I got your settings back in Jan. I’m using a 4010, anything new since then??
> 
> No, still using them Haven’t found anything better.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Superman2

I just realized I may have never thanked you for those settings. Worked out pretty well and this is from a guy who gave up on HDR for a projector. . Thanks man! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

You're more than welcome. Glad to be of help.


----------



## Superman2

inspector said:


> You're more than welcome. Glad to be of help.


I actually changed gamma to +2 and left dynamic range to auto bright, brought out the blacks as they felt too dark or crushed at the customized gamma and auto range. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Superman2 said:


> I actually changed gamma to +2 and left dynamic range to auto bright, brought out the blacks as they felt too dark or crushed at the customized gamma and auto range.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I’ll give it a try tomorrow on the 420!
,


----------



## inspector

Superman2 said:


> I actually changed gamma to +2 and left dynamic range to auto bright, brought out the blacks as they felt too dark or crushed at the customized gamma and auto range.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the new settings...just tried them and they work perfect!!! There is no +2, so I used 2.


----------



## Superman2

inspector said:


> Thanks for the new settings...just tried them and they work perfect!!! There is no +2, so I used 2.


Great. Yes, I meant 2. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pglover19

Superman2 . Can you PM me your settings.


----------



## pglover19

Inspector.. Can you PM me the new settings. Thanks


----------



## inspector

pglover19 said:


> Inspector.. Can you PM me the new settings. Thanks


Just PMed them to you.


----------



## pglover19

Thank you


----------



## Superman2

pglover19 said:


> Superman2 . Can you PM me your settings.


I did, it’s basically the same as inspector but with Gamma at 2 and super white off (I tend to go back and forth with SW on/off).

Note mine is a 4010


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Brian Atlanta

inspector said:


> Thanks for the new settings...just tried them and they work perfect!!! There is no +2, so I used 2.


Inspector and Superman could one of you send me the settings I have a 4010 also. Inspector if your using the tweaked Superman settings and think they are better will use those. Thanks to both for the help.


----------



## inspector

Brian Atlanta said:


> Inspector and Superman could one of you send me the settings I have a 4010 also. Inspector if your using the tweaked Superman settings and think they are better will use those. Thanks to both for the help.


PM sent Brian, enjoy!


----------



## Brian Atlanta

Inspector thanks appreciate it.


----------



## joeltaylor77

inspector said:


> Actually, Dave has been a godsent to us. His settings gave us a foundation and I have used all of his and tweeked some to my satisfaction.


Just found this thread. I have a 5040ub, 120" screen with 1.1 gain in an ambient lit room, sit about 14' away at the preferred spot. I run a PS5 and XBOX One S. Have never gotten the PS5 and Epson to play nice in UHD. Are there any settings or tricks to get the PS5 to recognize the 5040ub properly for UHD?


----------



## inspector

Joel, I'm sure someone will chime in to help you out.


----------



## Bejoy

Anyone know how to reset the HDMI CEC (HDMI LINK)? When I hit HDMI link, I can see my receiver listed under devices, but, then within a 3-4 seconds, it disappears. I have tried several HDMI cables with the same result. I called Epson technical support and they said there is no way to "reset" the HDMI link. (with receivers and TVs you can unplug the device for a 10 minutes, unplug and reseat the HDMIs etc.. and that will reset the CEC).

I have had my Epson 4040 since Sep of 2016, and HDMI link has worked flawlessly for over 5 years. This just happened today and I can't figure out how to get it to work again. Epson suggested that I send it in for out of warranty repair..


----------



## inspector

Time to upgrade?


----------



## Bejoy

inspector said:


> Time to upgrade?


Maybe? 

or, I turn off all CEC and get my URC MX-780 programmed (or Savant programmed)

I delayed the programming since I assumed I’d have a native 4k projector by now. I still like my Epson, just wish the CEC on it didn’t break.


----------



## seanzelize

Inspector - can you pm me these settings? I see all these posts and I’m curious to check it out. Thanks!


----------



## inspector

seanzelize said:


> Inspector - can you pm me these settings? I see all these posts and I’m curious to check it out. Thanks!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## rauldukehi

I've had to return my Epson 5040UBe 3 times already. The last one they replaced it with had to go right back because it had blobs everywhere. They promised the next one would be checked out before the sent it. The problem with the latest replacement is coming out of the box the lens cover was half open. I remembered reading a post similar to this earlier, but can't find it . Everything works fine on the unit except 3D Movies. Everything light or white has diagonal black lines like fishnet stockings on their faces. If I remember correctly the post I read about 5040 replacement with the open lens cover had the same fishnet pattern under 3D problem, but I can't seem to find that post anymore.
Anyway I have several pairs of Panasonic, Xpand vision, and Samsung 3d glasses all exhibit "fishnet" diagonal lines. Tried different players besides Oppo 103d (playstation). I'm not looking forward to a call with epson where I'm almost assured they will ask if I have tried it with Epson glasses, which you haven't been able to buy new since I purchased the unit refurbished in May. I think the original post was resolved by writing to the CEO or something to get a functioning 3d unit, they sent him an 5050 as replacement. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Raul


----------



## deano86

Bejoy said:


> Maybe?
> 
> or, I turn off all CEC and get my URC MX-780 programmed (or Savant programmed)
> 
> I delayed the programming since I assumed I’d have a native 4k projector by now. I still like my Epson, just wish the CEC on it didn’t break.


Curious, why is it that you feel the CEC on the Epson is the source of your problem? Maybe there is a problem with the communication with the CEC handshake with your Receiver? Have your checked the CEC settings on it? Perhaps a setting got toggled that you aren't aware of.....Have you performed a Denon soft reset or restart? In essence, the very scenario you speak of is why using CEC is a crapshoot... if it works, I consider it a bonus... I would never rely on it though.


----------



## Bejoy

deano86 said:


> Curious, why is it that you feel the CEC on the Epson is the source of your problem? Maybe there is a problem with the communication with the CEC handshake with your Receiver? Have your checked the CEC settings on it? Perhaps a setting got toggled that you aren't aware of.....Have you performed a Denon soft reset or restart? In essence, the very scenario you speak of is why using CEC is a crapshoot... if it works, I consider it a bonus... I would never rely on it though.


Well, Great news!! My Epson is not broken, and my Denon is not broken.

I spent 3 hours with Denon technical support yesterday and 3 hours with Epson support today, and no one could figure it out. Denon asked me to send in my AVR for "broken CEC" and Epson asked me to do the same!

I finally read the Epson manual, and in the small print, it says the MAXIMUM number of devices for CEC = 2 devices!

(I had Pansonic player, Oppo player, Denon AVR, Vertex 2, etc....ALL were added to my Denon last week and thats why CEC stopped working!!!)

Now, I am downsizing what I connect to my Denon. I don't need two UHD players and two streamers.

ONLY have CEC turned on for two devices, and Epson HDMI Link works flawlessly again!!!!!  

see below!


----------



## deano86

Interesting what good things can happen when someone reaches their limit and finally sits down and reads the manual! lol


----------



## avtvhdbass

@inspector
Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread
Sent you a PM as well. Not sure if you I should use this settings.
After years of watching movies without any calibration(6040UB) I wanted to try out your settings. Please can you PM me your latest settings.

Managed to find a certified calibrator but my lamp hours is about 2400H. I am not sure if it's worth calling him now or wait until I replace the lamp.

Thank you.


----------



## inspector

If I were you, I'd save your money and buy a Panny 420 instead of a ISF calibrator. The Panny will really make your UHDs really shine. My settings I sent to you, hopefully will be more than enough. They have been for me since about 2018. I changed out my lamp at 2700 hrs only because it was the original that came with the projector. Did I notice a difference with the new one...NO.


----------



## avtvhdbass

inspector said:


> If I were you, I'd save your money and buy a Panny 420 instead of a ISF calibrator. The Panny will really make your UHDs really shine. My settings I sent to you, hopefully will be more than enough. They have been for me since about 2018. I changed out my lamp at 2700 hrs only because it was the original that came with the projector. Did I notice a difference with the new one...NO.


Thank you very much. I didn't receive the settings, I am looking at the conversation menu under my account profile.


----------



## inspector

avtvhdbass said:


> Thank you very much. I didn't receive the settings, I am looking at the conversation menu under my account profile.
> View attachment 3208215


Sorry, just sent, enjoy!


----------



## BKEW

sddp said:


> Any here upgrading to the new JVC NZ 8K laser projectors?


I went NZ7 and should be here Thursday. Problem is my room update will not be done for a few months.


----------



## sddp

BKEW said:


> I went NZ7 and should be here Thursday. Problem is my room update will not be done for a few months.



Oh awesome!
I'd love to hear what you have to say on the differences from the Epson 5040 you have now compared to the NZ. Are you a 3D fan to also test out a 3D movie to compare the two?


----------



## BKEW

sddp said:


> Oh awesome!
> I'd love to hear what you have to say on the differences from the Epson 5040 you have now compared to the NZ. Are you a 3D fan to also test out a 3D movie to compare the two?


I never really used 3D. I think I own one maybe? I will, I have to finish the room update, I had a smaller room with a storage area that I took out and combined them. Probably 2 months out. I was looking to get a NZ7 but figured I would have to wait and found one that buyer backed out...so I took it. Once all up and going will report back.


----------



## kaydee6

Superman2 said:


> Great. Yes, I meant 2.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Superman2, can you PM me your settings? Thanks!


----------



## totaleclips353

Superman2 said:


> Great. Yes, I meant 2.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi can you please send me the settings as well? Thx


----------



## Superman2

Hi folks, for those asking for the settings... here they are below. Come back and let us know how it goes. Note I’m using a 4010 in light controlled room with dark walls/ceiling.


These were given to me by inspector, which I then (modified) as I went along. 

UHD NATURAL - currently using that with all my HDR feeds from Firetv, Xbox, and Panasonic 420

IMAGE
60
58
50
59
5 5 5
65K
4
49,49,50,50,49,43
PRESET 4
6 6
40 30
GAMMA 0, -3,-4,-4,-4,-4,-6,-30,0
(Here is we’re I just went to Gamma 2 in the end)

RGB
51 51 61
57,58,50
55,55,50
58,75,50
54,71,62
54,60,50
ON ( I went with off instead)
0
MEDIUM
HIGH (I went with normal)

SIGNAL

AUTO
AUTO
FINE


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jesped2

My 6040ub is doing a humming sound when using the "4K Enhancement" feature... any idea why and how to fix it?


----------



## Dave Harper

jesped2 said:


> My 6040ub is doing a humming sound when using the "4K Enhancement" feature... any idea why and how to fix it?


That’s most likely the eShift Optical glass, which is what gives you the “4K Enhancement” by shifting the pixels 1/2 pixel up and to the right every other frame optically.


----------



## deano86

jesped2 said:


> My 6040ub is doing a humming sound when using the "4K Enhancement" feature... any idea why and how to fix it?





Dave Harper said:


> That’s most likely the eShift Optical glass, which is what gives you the “4K Enhancement” by shifting the pixels 1/2 pixel up and to the right every other frame optically.


No, there is no "noise" emitted when using the 4K enhance feature. Something else is going on with his projector....


----------



## Dave Harper

deano86 said:


> No, there is no "noise" emitted when using the 4K enhance feature. Something else is going on with his projector....


Ummmm, that’s not what he said though……



jesped2 said:


> *My 6040ub is doing a humming sound when using the "4K Enhancement" feature*... any idea why and how to fix it?


Humming is a noise, and that’s what the optical glass sounds like when activated.


----------



## deano86

Dave Harper said:


> Ummmm, that’s not what he said though……
> 
> 
> 
> Humming is a noise, and that’s what the optical glass sounds like when activated.


Ummmmm..I don't believe the 4K enhancement has anything to do with the optics.. the enhancement is done purely through image processing...prior to the LCD panels or optics.


----------



## jesped2

deano86 said:


> Ummmmm..I don't believe the 4K enhancement has anything to do with the optics.. the enhancement is done purely through image processing...prior to the LCD panels or optics.





Dave Harper said:


> Humming is a noise, and that’s what the optical glass sounds like when activated.


I don't remember it doing that humming noise a while ago when I used it... does yours do any different noise than when it is off?


----------



## Dirt9

Mine has a tone change when in e shift,
Can't hear it with content playing though.


----------



## Dave Harper

deano86 said:


> Ummmmm..I don't believe the 4K enhancement has anything to do with the optics.. the enhancement is done purely through image processing...prior to the LCD panels or optics.


Ummmm then you have some reading to do. There’s an optical glass in the light path that vibrates and shifts the image. That’s what “eShift” is!



Super High-definition 4K Technology | DLA-X90R/DLA-X70R/DLA-X30 | JVC












It is the optical actuator glass used for eShift that’s causing the humming “noise” he hears.


----------



## Hal_M

This has probably been addressed earlier, but there are so many pages, I can't find it. So... 5040UB, have had it for a few years. Always looks amazing. Within the last year, the image has gotten noticeably darker. I assumed it was the bulb (2414 hrs) so I finally changed that out 2 days ago. The image is STILL dark. Can't even tell there's a new bulb in there. These are using the same settings I've been using for years. Both HDR and SDR. What should I be looking at next? The HDMI cable? I've dusted the lens, so it's not that (unless it's on the inside). Is this darkening just expected wear and tear on the machine? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Also, the Epson also has a harder and harder time recognizing HDR. I usually have to switch back and forth now 5-8 times before it recognizes the HDR signal. Maybe related (the cable), maybe not.


----------



## inspector

Hal_M said:


> This has probably been addressed earlier, but there are so many pages, I can't find it. So... 5040UB, have had it for a few years. Always looks amazing. Within the last year, the image has gotten noticeably darker. I assumed it was the bulb (2414 hrs) so I finally changed that out 2 days ago. The image is STILL dark. Can't even tell there's a new bulb in there. These are using the same settings I've been using for years. Both HDR and SDR. What should I be looking at next? The HDMI cable? I've dusted the lens, so it's not that (unless it's on the inside). Is this darkening just expected wear and tear on the machine? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Also, the Epson also has a harder and harder time recognizing HDR. I usually have to switch back and forth now 5-8 times before it recognizes the HDR signal. Maybe related (the cable), maybe not.


PM sent.


----------



## Hal_M

Hal_M said:


> This has probably been addressed earlier, but there are so many pages, I can't find it. So... 5040UB, have had it for a few years. Always looks amazing. Within the last year, the image has gotten noticeably darker. I assumed it was the bulb (2414 hrs) so I finally changed that out 2 days ago. The image is STILL dark. Can't even tell there's a new bulb in there. These are using the same settings I've been using for years. Both HDR and SDR. What should I be looking at next? The HDMI cable? I've dusted the lens, so it's not that (unless it's on the inside). Is this darkening just expected wear and tear on the machine? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Also, the Epson also has a harder and harder time recognizing HDR. I usually have to switch back and forth now 5-8 times before it recognizes the HDR signal. Maybe related (the cable), maybe not.


Also wanted to add, I've been using Orcus Varuna's 4K HDR Digital Cinema settings from a few years back. Looked incredible for the first couple years.  Playing on Sony X800 multi-region Blu player and streaming via Roku Ultra. Both equally dark now.


----------



## Hal_M

I'm gonna try replacing the HDMI cable. I need to get a 25ft cable. Any recommendations for the 5040? Fiber? Want to get the best, strongest signal possible to see if that makes a difference. Suggestions?


----------



## inspector

Monoprice 4K high speed hdmi cable CL2 in wall rated 18 GBPs active black.
I’ve been using mine for almost 5 years now.


----------



## sddp

inspector said:


> Monoprice 4K high speed hdmi cable CL2 in wall rated 18 GBPs active black.
> I’ve been using mine for almost 5 years now.


 Any recommendations on 20M for 2.1 48gb?

I have been researching this for a few months now (not into the audioquest $$$ snake oil)
I've never used HDMI cable since my current Epson 5040UBE is wireless but installing a JVC NZ and since I have to do some construction, I want to future proof for a very long time as to avoid ripping the walls apart again (at least for 15-20 years). I've used a ton of mono price and mycable mart for years. But Monoprice 8K SlimRun AV Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 75ft - AOC 48Gbps is not HDMI ULTRA certified. 

Andy advice/recommendations?


Thanks


----------



## Chad McClymonds

sddp said:


> Any recommendations on 20M for 2.1 48gb?
> 
> I have been researching this for a few months now (not into the audioquest $$$ snake oil)
> I've never used HDMI cable since my current Epson 5040UBE is wireless but installing a JVC NZ and since I have to do some construction, I want to future proof for a very long time as to avoid ripping the walls apart again (at least for 15-20 years). I've used a ton of mono price and mycable mart for years. But Monoprice 8K SlimRun AV Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 75ft - AOC 48Gbps is not HDMI ULTRA certified.
> 
> Andy advice/recommendations?
> 
> 
> Thanks


Whatever you do I would definitely go at least 48Gbps on a fiber with a distance like that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bejoy

sddp said:


> Any recommendations on 20M for 2.1 48gb?
> 
> I have been researching this for a few months now (not into the audioquest $$$ snake oil)
> I've never used HDMI cable since my current Epson 5040UBE is wireless but installing a JVC NZ and since I have to do some construction, I want to future proof for a very long time as to avoid ripping the walls apart again (at least for 15-20 years). I've used a ton of mono price and mycable mart for years. But Monoprice 8K SlimRun AV Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 75ft - AOC 48Gbps is not HDMI ULTRA certified.
> 
> Andy advice/recommendations?
> 
> 
> Thanks


I highly recommend the Cabernet hdmi from mono price. It does Dolby vision and Dolby Atmos at 75 feet!!!

I have a 40 foot for my Epson 4040 projector, a 50foot for my oled C6 in the pool table room, and have a 75 foot (zone 2) to my guest bedroom, all all of those Cabernet hdmi have been flawless since September 2016. The 40 foot, the 50 foot, and even the 75 foot does Dolby vision with Dolby Atmos.

I use the 40 foot Cabernet hdmi with my Epson and get Dolby vision on 120 inch screen!

here is the link:




__





Monoprice 4K High Speed HDMI Cable 40ft - CL2 In Wall Rated 18Gbps Active Black - Monoprice.com


Monoprice's Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI® Cable features the next generation of active HDMI cable technology. It delivers 18Gbps bandwidth and it supports Ultra HD HDMI video transmissi



www.monoprice.com


----------



## Bejoy

Looks like prices may have gone up a little since 2016, my 40 foot cost me $14.99 the $50 foot cost me $17.99, and the 75 foot was $19.99. It might be double the price now. The installer tried to sell me a $500 fiber hdmi 40 foot cable and said my monoprice would not work..

he was surprised that it worked.

I have monitor 1 to Epson, monitor2 to oled C6, and zone 2 to guest bedroom tv, and all three hdmi Carry Dolby vision and 4K 60Hz flawlessly


----------



## sddp

Bejoy said:


> I highly recommend the Cabernet hdmi from mono price. It does Dolby vision and Dolby Atmos at 75 feet!!!
> 
> I have a 40 foot for my Epson 4040 projector, a 50foot for my oled C6 in the pool table room, and have a 75 foot (zone 2) to my guest bedroom, all all of those Cabernet hdmi have been flawless since September 2016. The 40 foot, the 50 foot, and even the 75 foot does Dolby vision with Dolby Atmos.
> 
> I use the 40 foot Cabernet hdmi with my Epson and get Dolby vision on 120 inch screen!
> 
> here is the link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monoprice 4K High Speed HDMI Cable 40ft - CL2 In Wall Rated 18Gbps Active Black - Monoprice.com
> 
> 
> Monoprice's Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI® Cable features the next generation of active HDMI cable technology. It delivers 18Gbps bandwidth and it supports Ultra HD HDMI video transmissi
> 
> 
> 
> www.monoprice.com



Thanks, but that able its only 18gbs and I am looking for 48gbs. Audio is not an issue since it's only running video from the receiver to the projector.


----------



## MattaM2021

Sorry if this is totally off topic, new to the forum/projector life. I have a new setup with an Epson 4010 (should have gotten a 5040 but whatever). I mainly use it for movies/shows over streaming services. While watching it kept noticing that dark scenes just always looked washed out and hard for my eyes to focus. A few weeks ago the Apple4k that I have feeding it started to randomly stop sending video signal and only audio, rebooting the Apple gets the picture back without anything else needed. My AVR is a Denon 960h.

One thing that I noticed was after a fresh reboot of the Apple (after another picture loss) was that dark scenes (watching the Witcher on netflix) looked noticeably better for a few min then returned to the washed out version. I assumed HDR was the issue and maybe I had an old HDMI feeding the A4K, so I just ordered an HDMI 2.0 cable to try that. 

I guess my question is, has anyone ever experienced losing video signal only from a streaming device like that? I tried to set my video settings in the Apple to 4K 30Hz which I though would fix any cable issues. Is there a way I can verify that I'm getting HDR from my Epson?


----------



## Hal_M

sddp said:


> Thanks, but that able its only 18gbs and I am looking for 48gbs. Audio is not an issue since it's only running video from the receiver to the projector.


I'm also gonna look for a cable that does 48gbs, though I'm only running about 25-30 feet max. My Epson 5040 screen is darker than normal (even with new bulb) and seems to have a slight green tinge to it that wasn't there before. The Epson is also having a harder and harder time recognizing HDR signals. It takes me several tries before it recognizes it. I'm hoping this is a cable issue, but fearing it might be projector-based. Others have this problem? Any troubleshooting tips?


----------



## madermat

color filter stuck maybe?


----------



## Hal_M

madermat said:


> color filter stuck maybe?


How would I know? How would I check that?


----------



## jesped2

deano86 said:


> Ummmmm..I don't believe the 4K enhancement has anything to do with the optics.. the enhancement is done purely through image processing...prior to the LCD panels or optics.





Dirt9 said:


> Mine has a tone change when in e shift,
> Can't hear it with content playing though.





Dave Harper said:


> Ummmm then you have some reading to do. There’s an optical glass in the light path that vibrates and shifts the image. That’s what “eShift” is!
> 
> It is the optical actuator glass used for eShift that’s causing the humming “noise” he hears.


Weird enough, it happens too with the native real 2160p mode. And sometimes it goes away in time, then comes back, and then seems to go away after half an hour or so...

It is like some kind of whine, but not high pitched.


----------



## merceg100

Hi, what are the latest universal settings that are recommended for either SDR and HDR image? Previously Dave Harper were very much recommended but there had been 2 firmware updates along the way. Any new suggestions?


----------



## inspector

merceg100 said:


> Hi, what are the latest universal settings that are recommended for either SDR and HDR image? Previously Dave Harper were very much recommended but there had been 2 firmware updates along the way. Any new suggestions?


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## madermat

not sure how u would know but mine has come on with it engaged from watching UHD and when the bulb was warming up had a green tint to it and not to bright


----------



## jrocks

Good afternoon all I have epson 5040ub and hd fury linker, and all run through my denon x6300 avr . If I try to watch a 4k show it tells me my TV doesn't support that ? I thought the HD fury helped with that or am I missing something ?

Thanks guys


----------



## dtd6578

Hello everyone,
I just received the Epson 5040ube from a family member and would like to calibrate it,can someone kindly provide me with their latest calibration setting. Thank very much for any help.


----------



## inspector

dtd6578 said:


> Hello everyone,
> I just received the Epson 5040ube from a family member and would like to calibrate it,can someone kindly provide me with their latest calibration setting. Thank very much for any help.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Hal_M

madermat said:


> not sure how u would know but mine has come on with it engaged from watching UHD and when the bulb was warming up had a green tint to it and not to bright


The green tint! yes, I put a new bulb in and now everything is tinted green. Did that go away eventually for you? I've been using mine for nearly a week now and it is still green tinted.


----------



## Hal_M

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Would love to get these settings as well.


----------



## inspector

Hal_M said:


> Would love to get these settings as well.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## madermat

Hal_M said:


> The green tint! yes, I put a new bulb in and now everything is tinted green. Did that go away eventually for you? I've been using mine for nearly a week now and it is still green tinted.


yes it did i had to restart it and it has never happened again and i cant say for sure it was the filter just dont know what else it would be and why it did it once and thats it


----------



## Dave Harper

jesped2 said:


> Weird enough, it happens too with the native real 2160p mode. And sometimes it goes away in time, then comes back, and then seems to go away after half an hour or so...
> 
> It is like some kind of whine, but not high pitched.


It should happen with anything that’s 2160p, native or upscale. The projector is only 1080p, so it needs to activate eShift to display anything “Faux-K”, as they call it. 

It’s glass, so it has a resonant frequency and can come and go as the vibrations cycle and get into certain rhythms. 

The easiest way to tell is to just turn off eShift while you hear it and if it immediately goes away, there’s most likely your culprit. It could also be some sort of transformer coil whine, so turning eShift off should help see what it is either way, if the whine persists.


----------



## Hal_M

madermat said:


> yes it did i had to restart it and it has never happened again and i cant say for sure it was the filter just dont know what else it would be and why it did it once and thats it


When you say you had to “restart” it… what does that mean? Factory reset?


----------



## ddi90

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Me too - 6040!


----------



## inspector

ddi90 said:


> Me too - 6040!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## webmst

Hello all - Happy Xmas 🌲🌲
Could I please get a copy of the settings you guys are referring to.
Much thanks 👍👌💯🥳


----------



## inspector

webmst said:


> Hello all - Happy Xmas 🌲🌲
> Could I please get a copy of the settings you guys are referring to.
> Much thanks 👍👌💯🥳


PM sent. Enjoy and Merry Christma to you too!


----------



## jesped2

Dave Harper said:


> It should happen with anything that’s 2160p, native or upscale. The projector is only 1080p, so it needs to activate eShift to display anything “Faux-K”, as they call it.
> 
> It’s glass, so it has a resonant frequency and can come and go as the vibrations cycle and get into certain rhythms.
> 
> The easiest way to tell is to just turn off eShift while you hear it and if it immediately goes away, there’s most likely your culprit. It could also be some sort of transformer coil whine, so turning eShift off should help see what it is either way, if the whine persists.


If I change the resolution from 2160p to 1080p or disable "4K enhancement" it inmediately goes away.


----------



## madermat

Hal_M said:


> When you say you had to “restart” it… what does that mean? Factory reset?


no i just turned it off then back on and it has worked fine ever since maybe i just got lucky it has never happened again


----------



## Dave Harper

jesped2 said:


> If I change the resolution from 2160p to 1080p or disable "4K enhancement" it inmediately goes away.


Bingo!!!

If you’re still in warranty it’s time to contact the manufacturer for an RMA.


----------



## Hal_M

Dave Harper said:


> It should happen with anything that’s 2160p, native or upscale. The projector is only 1080p, so it needs to activate eShift to display anything “Faux-K”, as they call it.
> 
> It’s glass, so it has a resonant frequency and can come and go as the vibrations cycle and get into certain rhythms.
> 
> The easiest way to tell is to just turn off eShift while you hear it and if it immediately goes away, there’s most likely your culprit. It could also be some sort of transformer coil whine, so turning eShift off should help see what it is either way, if the whine persists.


Hey Dave, I would love to know what your latest/final settings were for the Epson 5040. The settings I was using were getting dark (too dark) and I changed the bulb, but it didn't get any brighter AND that added a green tint to everything. Gonna put the old bulb back in. But I need new settings to try. Particularly for HDR. None of the setting I currently have dialed in are doing the trick. They all seem a bit "off" with my SDR settings often looking better with SDR Blu-rays than their 4K counterparts. Never used to be the case. Trying to find that image that makes me smile again.  Thanks in advance!


----------



## Hal_M

OrcusVaruna said:


> He just can’t do HDR calibrations or more likely he knows how much of a pita it is on the 5040 and he didn’t want to invest the multiple hours it takes to get it right on the 5040. For example it took me about 40 minutes to calibrate my Vizio m series for hdr but it took me about 12 hours over multiple days to get it right on the 5040.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hey Orcus, for the past few years, I've been using your HDR Digital Cinema settings on my Epson 5040UB and LOVING the image. The past few months, the image has gotten darker and darker, I replaced the bulb, but it didn't get any brighter (and the new bulb added green tint!). Anyway, I was wondering what your final/latest settings were for the 5040UB. Gonna try another bulb and see what the does, but also want to try and get the most current settings that you like to see if anything changes. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Chad McClymonds

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Ok, I’ve been reading about your settings for hundreds of threads now… guess I should give them a shot as well. Mind sending those my way also? Happy holidays


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave Harper

Hal_M said:


> Hey Dave, I would love to know what your latest/final settings were for the Epson 5040. The settings I was using were getting dark (too dark) and I changed the bulb, but it didn't get any brighter AND that added a green tint to everything. Gonna put the old bulb back in. But I need new settings to try. Particularly for HDR. None of the setting I currently have dialed in are doing the trick. They all seem a bit "off" with my SDR settings often looking better with SDR Blu-rays than their 4K counterparts. Never used to be the case. Trying to find that image that makes me smile again.  Thanks in advance!


Wow I’d have to do some real digging to get those again. It’s been A LONG TIME since I’ve had the 5040! If I had one still I’d definitely be using an HDFury Vertex2 or similar with my LLDV Dolby Vision solution using a 10,000 nit Custom HDR10 max luminance, which really helps brighten the image. 

It sounds like @inspector has some good recent settings (above)^^^. Maybe he can send his to you?


----------



## inspector

Chad McClymonds said:


> Ok, I’ve been reading about your settings for hundreds of threads now… guess I should give them a shot as well. Mind sending those my way also? Happy holidays
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Clt5150

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Same here. Finally have some down time to try and get the projector looking proper. Much appreciated if you are still willing.


----------



## inspector

Clt5150 said:


> Same here. Finally have some down time to try and get the projector looking proper. Much appreciated if you are still willing.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Hal_M

Dave Harper said:


> Wow I’d have to do some real digging to get those again. It’s been A LONG TIME since I’ve had the 5040! If I had one still I’d definitely be using an HDFury Vertex2 or similar with my LLDV Dolby Vision solution using a 10,000 nit Custom HDR10 max luminance, which really helps brighten the image.
> 
> It sounds like @inspector has some good recent settings (above)^^^. Maybe he can send his to you?


Got @inspector's settings.  Now I'm gonna look into the HDFury Vertex2 and the LLDV Dolby Vision solution using a 10,000 nit Custom HDR10 max luminance. Assuming these are things I can use to enhance the 5040? Don't know much about these, but will start the research now.  Thanks!


----------



## madermat

Hal_M said:


> Got @inspector's settings.  Now I'm gonna look into the HDFury Vertex2 and the LLDV Dolby Vision solution using a 10,000 nit Custom HDR10 max luminance. Assuming these are things I can use to enhance the 5040? Don't know much about these, but will start the research now.  Thanks!


If you do get a vertex 2 let us know how it works was thinking of getting one not sure if its worth it


----------



## inspector

Using a Penny 420 really makes our projectors shine when viewing UHD discs. You just need the right settings for the 420.


----------



## 7677154

Hate to bug you once again, @inspector, but is there any chance you could pass your settings along to me as well? I’m getting that itch to tinker again!
Much appreciated in advance!


----------



## inspector

illspoken said:


> Hate to bug you once again, @inspector, but is there any chance you could pass your settings along to me as well? I’m getting that itch to tinker again!
> Much appreciated in advance!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## WynsWrld98

5040 owner not into gaming, 120" 16:9 image CIH setup larger with 2.4:1 content, watch 3D and 4K HDR content. What would I gain with a 5050 over my 5040?


----------



## b_scott

Dave Harper said:


> I used some white spandex here with a Samsung LSP9T and got great results. It really helped with alleviating laser sparkle/speckle too, although not an issue with a 5040.
> 
> I ran the LSP9T in Game Mode for HDR, using RGB Low signals from my AppleTV. I set the contrast around 47, brightness at default, ST2084 curve was at -3 because I use an HDFury Vertex2 for LLDV Dolby Vision and dynamic tone mapping from the source (a la’ what MadVR and Lumagen bring) and that has Custom HDR Max Luminance setting to 10,000 nits, and Dolby Vision Data Block at 1,000 nits. I used Native color gamut as well.
> 
> The image was MORE than bright enough and looked incredible with these settings. So much so that I’m contemplating using the spandex full time and selling my Stewart StudioTek 130 screen! Mostly so I can use it as an acoustically transparent screen with my speakers behind it, but also because I lose basically nothing in image quality.
> 
> Not sure how it’ll translate to the Epson, but since you don’t want to use a PC I figured I’d share my experience with the HDFURY in case it helps here.


thanks Dave!


----------



## Canes88

Just set up my 6050 and have been trying to eyeball a lot of the settings. Can anyone let me know their completed calibration to start with?


----------



## sddp

Has anyone here upgraded from these Epsons to the new JVC NZ series?


----------



## BobBragdon

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Hi Inspector

Could I get a copy of the settings as well

Thanks!


----------



## inspector

BobBragdon said:


> Hi Inspector
> 
> Could I get a copy of the settings as well
> 
> Thanks!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Canes88

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Could I please get these settings as well? Thanks.


----------



## inspector

PM sent. Hope you enjoy the settings!


----------



## inspector

sddp said:


> Has anyone here upgraded from these Epsons to the new JVC NZ series?


Well, when you get yours, you'll be able to tell us first hand all about it.


----------



## sddp

inspector said:


> Well, when you get yours, you'll be able to tell us first hand all about it.



true but had some specific questions about it as they are SLOWELY trickling in, so not sure if I'll get mine this week or mid March or even later.


----------



## inspector

If I had the bucks, I'd upgrade that's for sure.


----------



## marcosphoto

Hi folks, I know this is an old topic on a long discontinued product so I hope you're all still in here paying attention. My unit has only 842 hours on it and failed mid-movie last night. My settings are on medium power. Symptoms and warning indicators all indicated failed bulb. Tried 3 times to restart with no luck, lamp failure indicated every time. It seemed impossible that rated at 4000 hours medium it should fail so soon. Thankfully part of the deal I got from the store was a spare bulb, so I removed the old and in with the new - worked fine after that. Later I noticed the original bulb had writing with magic marker, there was no writing on the new bulb. Could this mean the bulb had 3221 hours on it already? If so, how could this happen in a brand new unit? Freaking out, I decided to research refurb packaging and found in every photo the refurbs are packaged completely different than a new retail unit which mine clearly is supposed to have been. Anyone see this? I feel there is some funny business going on somewhere, either in the store chain (a large chain superstore) or at Epson.


----------



## inspector

Well, I would be thankful that it’s working now.


----------



## Boggle

i recently got the cinema filter error. i am trying to get the part to fix it, does it use the same part as the older models? 1452666? 

When i check schematics for the 5040ub, I don't even see the part, but in the parts list there are two that sound like it:

*2168659*Epson Motor,cf;h710
Schematic Location: B0983No*2200134*Epson Motor,cf;h928
Schematic Location: B0983No

which of these could be the right part?

thanks!


----------



## adamYUKI

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Hi there kind sir! Would you mind sharing your settings with me as well? Thank you in advance.


----------



## inspector

adamYUKI said:


> Hi there kind sir! Would you mind sharing your settings with me as well? Thank you in advance.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## pedromvu

Hi, wondering where you all get your replacement lamps be it bulb only or full housing.

The only time I had to replace mine I got a knockoff even though I tried to make sure the model was the exact one, the housing had some trouble fitting in as it was hard to close the projector tray once it was in place, also it was clear the brightness was not like before, making cinema modes with the filter unusable.

I still have my original housing and bulb, but all I can see in the bulb is it's marked as Epson (and another part says Ushio), not sure if they really made their own bulbs.

I saw in other thread someone recommended projectorlampsource.com but I thought maybe someone here would already know where to find the exact original, or at least one as bright as original.


----------



## pedromvu

I guess I will answer my own question after doing some more research, first I was under the impression that the OEM from Epson was no longer made, since few times I checked it was out of stock

So in order from best to worst it would be:

1- Directly from Epson, everything oem but $330

2- I find some retailers like jaspertronics and compass micro sell the exact same oem (oem housing and lamp with stock box) at a way lower price than Epson ($219-$249)

3- Some retailers like jaspertronics mark cheaper versions by having the OEM bulb (in this case the Ushio 250W), not sure if its an exact match but for $90 it maybe worth it if you plan to remove the Bulb and replace it into original housing as some people report issues with non-OEM housings

4- Most retailers simply offer a non-OEM housing with non-OEM bulb, projectorlampsource doesn't go into detail, purelamp supply does mention is the OSRAM bulb, you might or maybe unlucky with these but they don't appear to be any cheaper than the $90 jaspertronics


----------



## cpoole17

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Hi @inspector. Could I please get a copy of your settings? Thank you in advance.


----------



## inspector

cpoole17 said:


> Hi @inspector. Could I please get a copy of your settings? Thank you in advance.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Boggle

pedromvu said:


> I guess I will answer my own question after doing some more research, first I was under the impression that the OEM from Epson was no longer made, since few times I checked it was out of stock
> 
> So in order from best to worst it would be:
> 
> 1- Directly from Epson, everything oem but $330
> 
> 2- I find some retailers like jaspertronics and compass micro sell the exact same oem (oem housing and lamp with stock box) at a way lower price than Epson ($219-$249)
> 
> 3- Some retailers like jaspertronics mark cheaper versions by having the OEM bulb (in this case the Ushio 250W), not sure if its an exact match but for $90 it maybe worth it if you plan to remove the Bulb and replace it into original housing as some people report issues with non-OEM housings
> 
> 4- Most retailers simply offer a non-OEM housing with non-OEM bulb, projectorlampsource doesn't go into detail, purelamp supply does mention is the OSRAM bulb, you might or maybe unlucky with these but they don't appear to be any cheaper than the $90 jaspertronics



on ebay there is a guy named Dwallen that sells oem bulbs, I usually get them for $40 (just put in an offer). I've gotten 6 from him and only one was bad and he replaced it for free. make sure you dont get the used ones.


----------



## joeyohhh

Hey gang, has anyone had any experience with the Digital Cinema color filter being blemished at all? I realized the other day while watching a black and white movie that there seems to be a very slight yellowish ring discoloration only when the color filter is applied. Watching SDR/Rec709 material without the filter equals no problem. I can't imagine it's been there the whole time I've had it (close to 2 years, purchased refurbished) but I can't figure how it would happen.

I called Epson and they first said to try a firmware update. I'll have to check if I'm current once I get home. Might need to be repaired or replaced -- which I'm not looking forward to since I spent a lot of time calibrating this puppy! Love this projector though -- money well spent!

Joe


----------



## inspector

joeyohhh said:


> Hey gang, has anyone had any experience with the Digital Cinema color filter being blemished at all? I realized the other day while watching a black and white movie that there seems to be a very slight yellowish ring discoloration only when the color filter is applied. Watching SDR/Rec709 material without the filter equals no problem. I can't imagine it's been there the whole time I've had it (close to 2 years, purchased refurbished) but I can't figure how it would happen.
> 
> I called Epson and they first said to try a firmware update. I'll have to check if I'm current once I get home. Might need to be repaired or replaced -- which I'm not looking forward to since I spent a lot of time calibrating this puppy! Love this projector though -- money well spent!
> 
> Joe


Joe, sent you my settings through PM that I've sent to many on here...enjoy!


----------



## Boggle

joeyohhh said:


> Hey gang, has anyone had any experience with the Digital Cinema color filter being blemished at all? I realized the other day while watching a black and white movie that there seems to be a very slight yellowish ring discoloration only when the color filter is applied. Watching SDR/Rec709 material without the filter equals no problem. I can't imagine it's been there the whole time I've had it (close to 2 years, purchased refurbished) but I can't figure how it would happen.
> 
> I called Epson and they first said to try a firmware update. I'll have to check if I'm current once I get home. Might need to be repaired or replaced -- which I'm not looking forward to since I spent a lot of time calibrating this puppy! Love this projector though -- money well spent!
> 
> Joe


when you say ring discoloration you mean on just the outside part of the image?


----------



## joeyohhh

Boggle said:


> when you say ring discoloration you mean on just the outside part of the image?


Forgive my crude drawing on MS Paint, lol, but this is basically what it looks like on a white screen. The drawing is exaggerated - it's very faint but I can occasionally see it on movies with color and pretty much always when I'm waiting something in black and white. Epson says it's a hardware issue so they're sending me a replacement. Hopefully the replacement doesn't have any major flaws (I've been through this process a couple times before I got one I could live with).


----------



## JeeteshKenobi

Hi @inspector would you mind sharing the new settings


----------



## inspector

PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Boggle

joeyohhh said:


> Forgive my crude drawing on MS Paint, lol, but this is basically what it looks like on a white screen. The drawing is exaggerated - it's very faint but I can occasionally see it on movies with color and pretty much always when I'm waiting something in black and white. Epson says it's a hardware issue so they're sending me a replacement. Hopefully the replacement doesn't have any major flaws (I've been through this process a couple times before I got one I could live with).
> View attachment 3223586


that looks like the filter is damaged, good luck with your replacement

As for my own repair, I installed the new motor, which works 100%. I really should have skipped buying the new motor and just 3d printed a new gear though lol. the new motor looks identical aside from the big brass gear on it.

Also I got a pink dust blob. I knew opening the damn optical path would get me in trouble. O well, time to repeat the repair and try to use compressed air on it.


----------



## imureh

Any one here using a 6040ub with the HD Fury Vertex2? Curious what settings on the PJ are being used.


----------



## 1971camaroguy

Hello Everyone,

I just purchased a used 5040ub about 8 months ago and haven't installed it yet (still trying to finish my theater). I did turn it on for a little bit when I first got it to check to see if it works and a little mock up.

My question is about refresh rates and how these handle it? Looking at the specs the projector can support 24/30/50/60 HZ on the hdmi ports

I will be playing movies through an nvidia shield from my Unraid server (emby docker). 

Most of my movies are full remux rips and 1080p 29.976HZ playback.

Will this projector be able to handle this without any stuttering? I figure it would if it supports 24HZ, just wanted to check

Also does it do any adjustments on it's own to accomodate different refresh rates?

Thanks!


----------



## WynsWrld98

1971camaroguy said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I just purchased a used 5040ub about 8 months ago and haven't installed it yet (still trying to finish my theater). I did turn it on for a little bit when I first got it to check to see if it works and a little mock up.
> 
> My question is about refresh rates and how these handle it? Looking at the specs the projector can support 24/30/50/60 HZ on the hdmi ports
> 
> I will be playing movies through an nvidia shield from my Unraid server (emby docker).
> 
> Most of my movies are full remux rips and 1080p 29.976HZ playback.
> 
> Will this projector be able to handle this without any stuttering? I figure it would if it supports 24HZ, just wanted to check
> 
> Also does it do any adjustments on it's own to accomodate different refresh rates?
> 
> Thanks!


Stuttering would be ftom your Nvidia not the projector. I display 4K and 3D rips incl Atmos on my 5040 with a Zidoo Z9X flawless playback.


----------



## GlavineBoy

inspector said:


> PM sent. Hope you enjoy the settings!


Hello inspector.. I'd like to jump on your settings bandwagon too please.. thank you!


----------



## inspector

GlavineBoy said:


> Hello inspector.. I'd like to jump on your settings bandwagon too please.. thank you!


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Dirt9

We should all thank the inspector for his time. Sharing his settings has turned into a full-time job. Thank you inspector!


----------



## inspector

Thanks Dirt9. You're all so welcome! Glad I could be of some small service.


John


----------



## Kevnmin

@inspector - Sure would appreciate your setting sent my way as well. Thanks in advance


----------



## inspector

Kevnmin said:


> @inspector - Sure would appreciate your setting sent my way as well. Thanks in advance


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## b_scott

I lost my 3D settings. Can anyone point me to some decent ones? 5040 with spandex screen.


----------



## Clj20003

@inspector could I get your settings as well? Thank you.


----------



## inspector

PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## bigbadbob

Inspector.
I would be interested in your settings if you would be so kind as to share.
Thanks,
RG


----------



## inspector

bigbadbob said:


> Inspector.
> I would be interested in your settings if you would be so kind as to share.
> Thanks,
> RG


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## bigbadbob

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Thank you!


----------



## inspector

Anyone asking for my setting, just look above my signature. ENJOY!!!


----------



## inspector

I meant BELOW my sig.


----------



## ryudoadema

inspector said:


> I meant BELOW my sig.


I've gotten your settings a while back, but just fyi that link is not working...


----------



## inspector

Funny, it works for me, I wonder why?


----------



## inspector

When I don't log in, I don't even see it. But when I log in it works...odd, or maybe I'm missing something.


----------



## Boggle

I posted the repair of the cinema filter motor if anyone is interested, its in the 5010 cinema filter thread.


----------



## confused2much

inspector said:


> When I don't log in, I don't even see it. But when I log in it works...odd, or maybe I'm missing something.


Tried the link, didn’t work for me. Would you mind sending your settings my way too? Thanks.


----------



## inspector

I don't know why it doesn't work, I asked the mods...nothing back.

PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## Nathan_R

@inspector could I have them as well? I’m sorry to add to the bombardment— I’ve got the itch to experiment after sitting on the same settings forever. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Dominic Chan

inspector said:


> I don't know why it doesn't work, I asked the mods...nothing back.
> 
> PM sent. Enjoy!


That link points to a "conversation" (aka Private Message), so only accessible by some.


----------



## inspector

Nathan_R said:


> @inspector could I have them as well? I’m sorry to add to the bombardment— I’ve got the itch to experiment after sitting on the same settings forever. Thanks in advance.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## inspector

These are the settings I've been using for a couple years and am very happy with.

The setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.

When you do your Panny 420/820, if you have one, do the same. PLAYER SETTINGS; HDMI, ADVANCED SETTINGS, VIDEO, AUDIO, 3D and HD OPTIMZER on remote.

UHD NATURAL

_IMAGE_

60
58
50
59
5 5 5
65K
4
49,49,50,50,49,43
PRESET 4
6 6
40 30
GAMMA 2
RGB
51 51 61
57,58,50
55,55,50
58,75,50
54,71,62
54,60,50
ON
0
MEDIUM
HIGH

_SIGNAL_

AUTO
AUTO BRIGHT
FINE

BD/SD NATURAL

_IMAGE_

51
49
50
59
5 5 5
6K
4
49,49,50,50,44,43
PRESET 3
5 5
5 5
GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0
same as UHD (try 2 like for UHD)
0
-6
MEDIUM
NORMAL

_SIGNAL_

AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD B&W (B&W CINEMA) I like my films to look black and white

_IMAGE_

50
42
37
43
0 0 0
6 5
50 for all
PRESET 1
0 0
0 0
GAMMA 1
OFF
0
MEDIUM
NORMAL

_SIGNAL_

AUTO
AUTO
AUTO
FINE

BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC

_IMAGE_

51
49
50
60
5 5 5
5 5
46,48,46,48,59,49
NORMAL
PRESET 3
4
1
5 5
5 5
GAMMA 1
50,58,48
57,51,46
61,50,44
46,50,41
52,49,66
52,23,69
OFF
-12
HIGH
OFF

_SIGNAL_

3D SETUP

AUTO
0
THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
MEDIUM
ON

AUTO
FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast running, using FAST clears it up)

PANNY 420

SETUP PLAYER SETTINGS

_HDMI_

4K
4K(60p)(4:4:4)
AUTO
AUTO
AUTO ONLY
ON

_ADVANCED_

YcbCr (AUTO)
AUTO(12 bit Priority)
HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
ON
OFF
BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
OFF
AUTO
AUTO
ON
AUTO

_VIDEO_

AUTO
ON

_AUDIO_

OFF
---
UP TO 96 kHz
SURROUND ENCODED
NORMAL
---
O
OFF

_3D_

AUTO
ORIGINAL
OFF

REMOTE

_HD OPTIMIZER_

STANDARD
+8
0
+4
-4


----------



## inspector

Dominic Chan said:


> That link points to a "conversation" (aka Private Message), so only accessible by some.


Thanks! I hope I did it right this time.


----------



## Dirt9

Delete


----------



## Dirt9

Delete


----------



## DerKonig

b_scott said:


> It’s definitely the projector.


Thats weird, me also i dont see that when i put an hdr movie the screen goes blanc for like 3 second and its start, i guess the handshake prevent to show it on screen


----------



## DerKonig

DocBeeps said:


> I still haven't figured out why I'm not getting that notification. Connected Shield TV Pro 2019 directly to 5040UBe using 50 ft fiber optic HDMI. Plex server on Shield Pro, with media on a few external drives connected directly to shield via USB 3.0. The handshake appears to be quicker but still no HDR notification. I've confirmed in Projector Info that I'm getting 4k, HDR, BT.2020. Now I'm not sure if that alone is confirmation I'm actually getting HDR. Is there a setting for this or something I'm completely overlooking?


I have the same problem as you, i did see it once in a youtube hdr video


----------



## Pearcebud

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Hi could I get a DM of your settings! Thank you


----------



## inspector

Pearcebud said:


> Hi could I get a DM of your settings! Thank you


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## inspector

Just streamed ICE AGE ADVENTURES OF BUCK WILD and using my UHD settings, the picture was beautiful. The movie was listed as 4K DA HDR10. Using my Fire TV Stick 4K, the Denon showed DA and the Epson showed 8 BIT 4:2:0 BT. 2020 HDR...I can't complain.


----------



## b_scott

I cleaned my filter and finally got a dreaded green spot on black backgrounds and also purple spots on white, both in the center of the screen. I think it was because I made the mistake of cleaning the filter while it was on, so it got a piece of dust inside. What was the solution to cleaning that again? I feel like someone posted one recently.

edit: since it's under warranty, I just requested a replacement unit. Playing refurb roulette.. hoping for a good one. this one has been great other than this.


----------



## deano86

b_scott said:


> I cleaned my filter and finally got a dreaded green spot on black backgrounds and also purple spots on white, both in the center of the screen. I think it was because I made the mistake of cleaning the filter while it was on, so it got a piece of dust inside. What was the solution to cleaning that again? I feel like someone posted one recently.
> 
> edit: since it's under warranty, I just requested a replacement unit. Playing refurb roulette.. hoping for a good one. this one has been great other than this.


Seriously? You didn't shut the projector off, before cleaning the filter? And now you are willing to do the refurb roulette? Interesting...


----------



## b_scott

deano86 said:


> Seriously? You didn't shut the projector off, before cleaning the filter? And now you are willing to do the refurb roulette? Interesting...


I wasn't thinking for a moment. But I'm not opening it up if it's still under warranty. If the one that I receive has blobs I'll just send that one back and try another. What would you have me do instead? Seems like you're just berating me but not offering a better solution.


----------



## deano86

b_scott said:


> I wasn't thinking for a moment. But I'm not opening it up if it's still under warranty. If the one that I receive has blobs I'll just send that one back and try another. What would you have me do instead? Seems like you're just berating me but not offering a better solution.


Not quite sure how you think that my response is berating you... I just find your decision making interesting... especially since you stated that this projector had worked great up until this... Is it not an option to just send it in to get serviced and then get your "known commodity" projector back again? Well, maybe not in the next week with the Super Bowl coming up! Lol... 

My thinking is that if Epson knows you are expecting your same projector back, that they are more likely to make sure it is fixed... rather than just grabbing another projector off the shelf and sending it to you.... I have just read enough posts on AVS from guys who end up getting another projector back from Epson that is worse in some way than what they sent in. I would hate to have to go through that.. But, hopefully, you get a good one right away.


----------



## b_scott

deano86 said:


> Not quite sure how you think that my response is berating you... I just find your decision making interesting... especially since you stated that this projector had worked great up until this... Is it not an option to just send it in to get serviced and then get your "known commodity" projector back again? Well, maybe not in the next week with the Super Bowl coming up! Lol...
> 
> My thinking is that if Epson knows you are expecting your same projector back, that they are more likely to make sure it is fixed... rather than just grabbing another projector off the shelf and sending it to you.... I have just read enough posts on AVS from guys who end up getting another projector back from Epson that is worse in some way than what they sent in. I would hate to have to go through that.. But, hopefully, you get a good one right away.


oh ok. well, thanks but when I got a new one previously, the new one was better. Plus at this point I figure they've perfected the 5040 servicing. I am using my projector every single day for hours right now, and I don't want to be without it for a week if I can help it.


----------



## trjn

Looks like my projector decided to go bad right at the end of warranty. I have had the refurb 5040ub for a little less than 2 years. Lamp had 0 hours when I got the projector and considered myself lucky to get one without any blobs or artifacts. We use it sparingly in the basement. With a one year old we hardly get time to watch anything. Last weekend, while watching Netflix , the projector went off, fan on high. 

Turned it off and on. 
Lamp light: Solid Orange light
Status light: blinking blue. 

Removed the filter, it was clean. So just tapped it a little and put it back. Reseated the lamp. Turned it on. The fan runs loud and just nothing on screen with same light status sequence. 

Called Epson. They recommended a new lamp before sending it for exchange. A month ago I checked the lamp at 550 hours, so probably I was sitting at 600 hours. Epson of course has replacement lamp at $330 for a new lamp. 

At this point, I just purchased one from projector central listed websites at a little less than half the Epson price. Hopefully, it will not be a counterfeit lamp. Just couldn’t justify $330 for a lamp that went bad at 600 hours. I would have gladly paid the full price if I used for the rated 2500 hours. 
I have read someone else in this thread had the similar issue and they were sent a new lamp from Epson since the lamp was under warranty(90 days). Mine is way past the lamp warranty. 

Do the lamps degrade with time even when not used? Or I probably got the bad one? Or was extensively used and was sent with the bulb hours reset? 
In any case, just wanted to know if someone had this issue with such low hours on the bulb. Will report back what happens with the new bulb which is due to come this week. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## marcosphoto

Hey folks, been a while. Now that firmwares have been released for some time, I was wondering about how people felt about them. I'm currently at 1.12, they've passed 1.13 into 1.14 now. So far I've noticed no issues other than a burned out bulb at 900 hours on medium power which is a huge difference than the 4000ish suggested. I was just wondering how people have felt as they've updated, if it's worth my while to bother.


----------



## marcosphoto

trjn said:


> Looks like my projector decided to go bad right at the end of warranty. I have had the refurb 5040ub for a little less than 2 years. Lamp had 0 hours when I got the projector and considered myself lucky to get one without any blobs or artifacts. We use it sparingly in the basement. With a one year old we hardly get time to watch anything. Last weekend, while watching Netflix , the projector went off, fan on high.
> 
> Called Epson. They recommended a new lamp before sending it for exchange. A month ago I checked the lamp at 550 hours, so probably I was sitting at 600 hours. Epson of course has replacement lamp at $330 for a new lamp.
> 
> Do the lamps degrade with time even when not used? Or I probably got the bad one? Or was extensively used and was sent with the bulb hours reset?
> In any case, just wanted to know if someone had this issue with such low hours on the bulb. Will report back what happens with the new bulb which is due to come this week.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would say based on what I read and experienced with my brand spanking new unit, that the bulb specifications are a sales tactic and a huge fraud. Sure, there's a good number of people who are getting thousands of hours on theirs, but my brand new unit flew through a bulb at 820h on medium power. I'm also very careful to not turn the unit on and of a lot, I don't go turn on the unit then change my mind and turn it off 3 minutes later. I think 500-1000h is the realistic expected for these projectors - anything more is a bonus. It's sad really, I got 3000h out of my PTAX100 panasonic and is still going strong, used it to watch a movie at my parents place a while back. I miss panasonic in the projector market.


----------



## marcosphoto

Daverey06 said:


> Hello all, I am new to AVS Forums and this is my first post so I apologize for my lack of knowledge on everything 4K and HDR related.
> I was wondering for any of you that happen to have a Panasonic DP-UB820 paired with an Epson 5040UB, how you get the best picture possible out of that combo. In particular what settings do I need to adjust to get the best HDR colors?
> You can assume my projector and 4K Blu-ray player are on their factory settings. I would be so appreciative if someone could recommend everything that needs adjusted to get stellar picture and HDR colors. Thanks so much for any help you can provide.


Sorry, didn't catch on this was such an old posting!

There's a ton of information available on this combo here in this thread. Just go backwards from here and read everything, a great deal has been added over the years on this topic. I have the same combo, ultimately mine is a bit of a mix from what I read here in this thread. Lots to know and read, all very good stuff - just need a bunch of hours and a lot of cut-n-paste to record it all! Ultimately I think you'll be messing more with the PJ than the player. I'm still not really happy with the picture detail in the shadows on my 5040, I found no detail at all down there and had to manually change the curves to add a little exposure in the shadows (I believe it was the second arrow from the left on gamma if memory serves). I'm far from pro, but compared to my panasonic I saw plain black in the shadows where my PTAX showed great detail. I think the PJ has potential to look amazing but out of the box I was really disappointed.


----------



## Glimmerman911

Hi there, just picked up a used 5040, and learning about how to best handle the limitations of the HDMI port.
My inputs are an Nvidia Shield and an Xbox One X. For the Nvidia shield it is for media playback through Plex/Netflix/Amazon/Disney, I have been manually changing the Shield display setting from 4k/HDR/30hz when watching UHD content with HRD, and 4k/SDR/60hz when viewing SDR content. I have not seen any settings on the Nvidia shield for 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 or 4:2:0, do the exist and does it matter?

I have not setup my Xbox One X yet, it will be used only for gaming no media playback, so I would like 60hz. Can the Xbox One X output 4k SDR @ 60hz? Is this where the Linker I have been reading about comes in? I'm not sure what scenarios the linker is used for?


----------



## b_scott

deano86 said:


> But, hopefully, you get a good one right away.


just following up - I got my new one in three days due to weekend, and it looks great. Looks newer than the one I had - the stickers had more information on them, and the EPSON stamp was darker. I'm kinda amazed they even still have any. I wonder if sometime in the future they'll have to start upgrading people to 5050's due to lack of stock, or if they'll just make them ship to get fixed, without the swap.


----------



## trjn

marcosphoto said:


> I would say based on what I read and experienced with my brand spanking new unit, that the bulb specifications are a sales tactic and a huge fraud. Sure, there's a good number of people who are getting thousands of hours on theirs, but my brand new unit flew through a bulb at 820h on medium power. I'm also very careful to not turn the unit on and of a lot, I don't go turn on the unit then change my mind and turn it off 3 minutes later. I think 500-1000h is the realistic expected for these projectors - anything more is a bonus. It's sad really, I got 3000h out of my PTAX100 panasonic and is still going strong, used it to watch a movie at my parents place a while back. I miss panasonic in the projector market.


Yup. Reading more upon this, looks like the the rated bulb hours are highly inflated. My old benq w1070 was a beast and got the rated bulb hours twice before I switched to Epson 5040. I love this projector and it’s ability to automate the lens position(The reason I purchased it). 
Anyway, I did get the new bulb. I doubt it’s genuine, but the actual bulb does have Epson etched on the side. 
After I put the new bulb in, I checked to see the exact hours of the old bulb. 655 hours. If the new(hopefully oem) bulb goes at the similar hours then I might just get another bulb one more time before looking for another option. May be laser projectors would be a little cheaper by then  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

trjn said:


> Yup. Reading more upon this, looks like the the rated bulb hours are highly inflated. My old benq w1070 was a beast and got the rated bulb hours twice before I switched to Epson 5040. I love this projector and it’s ability to automate the lens position(The reason I purchased it).
> Anyway, I did get the new bulb. I doubt it’s genuine, but the actual bulb does have Epson etched on the side.
> After I put the new bulb in, I checked to see the exact hours of the old bulb. 655 hours. If the new(hopefully oem) bulb goes at the similar hours then I might just get another bulb one more time before looking for another option. May be laser projectors would be a little cheaper by then
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I get 2200 hours (at least) on my real Epson bulbs in my Epson 5040 run on high power 100% of the time. My current lamp is at 2200 hours and still looks great. Last time I changed the bulb it wasn't a big difference in brightness (surprisingly). I've had an Epson 5030 and a 6010 and when I'd change a bulb the difference was dramatic, not so with my 5040 despite keeping the bulbs longer in my 5040 than I did with my 5030 and 6010.


----------



## inspector

WynsWrld98 said:


> I get 2200 hours (at least) on my real Epson bulbs in my Epson 5040 run on high power 100% of the time. My current lamp is at 2200 hours and still looks great. Last time I changed the bulb it wasn't a big difference in brightness (surprisingly). I've had an Epson 5030 and a 6010 and when I'd change a bulb the difference was dramatic, not so with my 5040 despite keeping the bulbs longer in my 5040 than I did with my 5030 and 6010.


I bought my 6040 in 2017. I changed out the bulb at 2900 hrs. because I figured it was in long enough. No difference in brightness. Mostly on ECO but when watching 3D/4K on HIGH.


----------



## deano86

WynsWrld98 said:


> I get 2200 hours (at least) on my real Epson bulbs in my Epson 5040 run on high power 100% of the time. My current lamp is at 2200 hours and still looks great. Last time I changed the bulb it wasn't a big difference in brightness (surprisingly). I've had an Epson 5030 and a 6010 and when I'd change a bulb the difference was dramatic, not so with my 5040 despite keeping the bulbs longer in my 5040 than I did with my 5030 and 6010.


I assume you are changing it by choice because you are looking for max brightness at 2200 hours not because the projector is indicating it needs to be changed?


----------



## b_scott

Spoke too soon. This new one is showing a purple vertical line when I turn it on. It goes away pretty shortly but that sounds like it’s a bad or badly seated cable?

edit: and now it's permanent, and another is showing sometimes too. Emailed Epson.


----------



## WynsWrld98

deano86 said:


> I assume you are changing it by choice because you are looking for max brightness at 2200 hours not because the projector is indicating it needs to be changed?


Correct


----------



## Loren Heiman

Does anyone else use the 12V trigger out and experience a long delay from when the projector is powered on and the trigger out signal is sent? It takes about one minute for me and I don't understand why.


----------



## trjn

WynsWrld98 said:


> I get 2200 hours (at least) on my real Epson bulbs in my Epson 5040 run on high power 100% of the time. My current lamp is at 2200 hours and still looks great. Last time I changed the bulb it wasn't a big difference in brightness (surprisingly). I've had an Epson 5030 and a 6010 and when I'd change a bulb the difference was dramatic, not so with my 5040 despite keeping the bulbs longer in my 5040 than I did with my 5030 and 6010.


The original bulb that came with projector and this new bulb has similar if not the same brightness. The way projector turned off in the middle of the movie, was just afraid that it was an issue with the projector instead of the lamp because I had low hours on the bulb and almost running out of warranty on the refurb unit. When this bulb goes out, most probably I will get one from Epson. I was lucky to get a refurb unit without any issues, didn’t really want to play the refurb roulette. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## trjn

inspector said:


> I bought my 6040 in 2017. I changed out the bulb at 2900 hrs. because I figured it was in long enough. No difference in brightness. Mostly on ECO but when watching 3D/4K on HIGH.


Yes, I was hoping to get around 2000 hours on the bulb. But probably the refurb unit I got had a bulb that was used for considerable amount of hours and reset to sell. I usually have it on eco as well and use high for 3D. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## I love tacos

Hi folks, my 5040ub (out of warranty, bought used) is getting the "three blinking lights". I took it to a nearby service center and after looking at it the tech gave me two choices: he can replace the auto iris and cinema filter for $294 parts and labor. But he said he's done this before and seen the unit work for a short time, only to fail again, with the risk being there's a greater issue with lens assembly? (I may not be relaying this part properly). More thorough choice would be sending to Epson for flat rate complete repair at ~$900 + shipping. (That's too much, I would just sell the unit for parts instead of doing that). 

What would you do? The manual says the three lights is the auto iris error.. i'm inclined to try that fix.


----------



## Dirt9

I think I'd put that $900 towards a new projector if you can swing it.


----------



## inspector

Bite the bullet and buy a new/used one. You could have a “money pit” on your hands.


----------



## ruggercb

Hey has anyone ever cross flashed the 6040 firmware to the 5040? Just curious if one could access things like the anamorphic functionality. I doubt it’s even feasible. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

b_scott said:


> Spoke too soon. This new one is showing a purple vertical line when I turn it on. It goes away pretty shortly but that sounds like it’s a bad or badly seated cable?
> 
> edit: and now it's permanent, and another is showing sometimes too. Emailed Epson.


alright, so they sent me another unit. The second I turned it on it had multiple green and red spots on the screen (dust). After some more proof pics, they are sending me another one. This will be my third in this exchange and 4th overall (5th unit) because my first one had a bad fan after a year.

Hoping this is the last time. They are doing to thoroughly check this one, they say.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

Hi everyone Up until know I only streamed 4k HDR from my Atv 4K and since most of the shows I watched where 24fps I didn't have any problem with my HDR, However know that DV seems too be becoming the norm I'm starting to look into the HD fury products.

My setup is as follow :

Atv 4K + PS5 + PS3 + Switch ---- Denon AVR x4300h ----- Epson 5040Ub

I guess would be to put the HDfury product between the AVR and Pj so all my sound isn't affected by this.

I live in Canada and none of these products are available locally. A quick online search returned older product and newer one both being in stock. I plan on keeping this projector for at least another 3-5 years because my viewing distance will not benefit from 8k, very barely does from 4k. I'm currently gaming on the PS5 in 1080p HDR because I can't get HDR in 4K.

Most of the HDfury seem overkill and I can't find any comparison from older version to the newer ones. 
Also while I could afford the Vroomm I don't see any reason to buy it if the AVR_Key does what I want. I would prefer to keep a max of $ available from my HT budget for my DIY sub project.

If some of you could jump in and guide me through this choice that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks 

Chris


----------



## acribb

Has anyone been able to turn on their Epson 5040 via HDMI CEC? I’m trying to get my Denon AVR to turn it on. Denon AVR 4400H has HDMI control on. Epson 5040 has HDMI control on with On set to Device -> Projector. Off is set to On.


----------



## Boggle

I love tacos said:


> Hi folks, my 5040ub (out of warranty, bought used) is getting the "three blinking lights". I took it to a nearby service center and after looking at it the tech gave me two choices: he can replace the auto iris and cinema filter for $294 parts and labor. But he said he's done this before and seen the unit work for a short time, only to fail again, with the risk being there's a greater issue with lens assembly? (I may not be relaying this part properly). More thorough choice would be sending to Epson for flat rate complete repair at ~$900 + shipping. (That's too much, I would just sell the unit for parts instead of doing that).
> 
> What would you do? The manual says the three lights is the auto iris error.. i'm inclined to try that fix.



if its the cinema filter motor (you dont hear the usual motor noise when you turn it on, and thats when it shuts down) the fix isnt too bad, it only took me about 3 hours and i didnt know what i was doing. see the cinema filter thread on this forum. it is usually that motor on these projectors, though it could be auto iris.

there is a new motor that permanently fixes the problem, but it costs $90. if you get tech to fix make sure he is using that, it has a new brass motor.

you could also just turn off the cinema filter if you dont use it, and the projector will work fine. how to do that is also in that thread somewhere.


----------



## I love tacos

Boggle said:


> if its the cinema filter motor (you dont hear the usual motor noise when you turn it on, and thats when it shuts down) the fix isnt too bad, it only took me about 3 hours and i didnt know what i was doing. see the cinema filter thread on this forum. it is usually that motor on these projectors, though it could be auto iris.
> 
> there is a new motor that permanently fixes the problem, but it costs $90. if you get tech to fix make sure he is using that, it has a new brass motor.
> 
> you could also just turn off the cinema filter if you dont use it, and the projector will work fine. how to do that is also in that thread somewhere.


that's very helpful, thanks so much! I took the chance and gave the tech the green light last Friday, so he likely already ordered the parts but i will give him a call tomorrow! I was getting cinema filter errors so my hope is that's all it is. 

I also saw a comment somewhere about a firmware update actually resolving some one of these common errors? Anyone have info on that?


----------



## jesped2

Is there any info anywhere about the exact differences between the 'Fast' and 'Fine' signal modes, specially in the 3D mode?


----------



## inspector

jesped2 said:


> Is there any info anywhere about the exact differences between the 'Fast' and 'Fine' signal modes, specially in the 3D mode?


I use FAST because there was one scene on 3der that had dogs running across the screen, they were blurred. I switched to FAST, and the scene played normal.

So, I keep my settings for DYNAMIC 3D at FAST, but on all my other settings for BD,SD and UHD FINE.

If you would like my settings for BD, SD, UHD that I have sent to quite a few people on here, I'll be more than happy to send them to you.


----------



## The_Forth_Man

inspector said:


> If you would like my settings for BD, SD, UHD that I have sent *to quite a few people *on here, I'll be more than happy to send them to you.



This thread should be renamed : "Get inspector settings " 

I've been using them since December and they work great BTW, still have to try B&W but so far HDR and 3D worked great for me.

I just ordered the VERTEX to try out the LLDV trick and gain 4k HDR gaming capabilities. Will see how this compares to your settings for regular movie viewing. 

Thanks again


----------



## jesped2

inspector said:


> If you would like my settings for BD, SD, UHD that I have sent to quite a few people on here, I'll be more than happy to send them to you.


Sure, worth giving a try. I always wondered why your settings were sent via PM instead of just post them and then link to that post if anybody asks... 😛

After doing some search I found this at ProjectorCentral's review ( Review: Epson ProCinema 6040UB Home Projector ) :

"Input lag measures differently depending on options set. If you are running with 4K enhancement activated, the frame interpolation (FI) system is not available. In this instance we measure 28 ms in both the Fine and Fast modes. If 4K enhancement is turned off, frame interpolation becomes an option, and you can select either Off, Low, Normal, or High. In Fine mode with FI off, the lag is 29 ms. With FI set to Low, lag is 68 ms, and when set to either Normal or High, the lag is 104 ms. With 4K enhancement off and the Fast mode selected, FI is not an option, and input lag measures 29 ms.

Bottom line, the fastest input lag achievable is with 4K enhancement on and the speed option set to either Fine or Fast, which yields 28 ms"

Really surprising that '4K enhancement' mode is the fastest one. It doesn't say anything at all regarding 3D though. 
I think I'm gonna follow your advice and use 'Fast' mode, as I use SBS 3D for PC gaming ( using Reshade and SuperDepth3D ) and avoiding any kind of blur is a good thing.


----------



## inspector

jesped2 said:


> Sure, worth giving a try. I always wondered why your settings were sent via PM instead of just post them and then link to that post if anybody asks... 😛
> 
> After doing some search I found this at ProjectorCentral's review ( Review: Epson ProCinema 6040UB Home Projector ) :
> 
> "Input lag measures differently depending on options set. If you are running with 4K enhancement activated, the frame interpolation (FI) system is not available. In this instance we measure 28 ms in both the Fine and Fast modes. If 4K enhancement is turned off, frame interpolation becomes an option, and you can select either Off, Low, Normal, or High. In Fine mode with FI off, the lag is 29 ms. With FI set to Low, lag is 68 ms, and when set to either Normal or High, the lag is 104 ms. With 4K enhancement off and the Fast mode selected, FI is not an option, and input lag measures 29 ms.
> 
> Bottom line, the fastest input lag achievable is with 4K enhancement on and the speed option set to either Fine or Fast, which yields 28 ms"
> 
> Really surprising that '4K enhancement' mode is the fastest one. It doesn't say anything at all regarding 3D though.
> I think I'm gonna follow your advice and use 'Fast' mode, as I use SBS 3D for PC gaming ( using Reshade and SuperDepth3D ) and avoiding any kind of blur is a good thing.


PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## applegrcoug

Last weekend we were watching a movie and we got the constant shutting off syndrome....every 15 minutes it was shutting down. I got my unit back in 2018 and then repaired in 2020 due to the power supply issue, so I'm clearly out of warranty. What are the options these days?


----------



## inspector

Only Epson can tell you that and hoping someone will come to your help.


----------



## Osumme007

inspector said:


> I use FAST because there was one scene on 3der that had dogs running across the screen, they were blurred. I switched to FAST, and the scene played normal.
> 
> So, I keep my settings for DYNAMIC 3D at FAST, but on all my other settings for BD,SD and UHD FINE.
> 
> If you would like my settings for BD, SD, UHD that I have sent to quite a few people on here, I'll be more than happy to send them to you.


================================x==================================
HI Mate, 

Would you be able to send me the settings, please? I have the Epson EH-TW8300 which is basically the same unit. 

Thanks you in advance, 

Regards, 
Peter


----------



## inspector

PM sent. Enjoy!


----------



## cjsparky

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


I would love a DM as well, unless the settings are the same as the link in your sig. Then I have it.

So after 4 years, my 5040ub just stopped working, no lights flashing or otherwise. Assuming it is the dreaded power supply issue. I have used it quite extensively, but I am still on the original lamp. I called Epson today to see what they can do, and they asked a few questions, mentioned it was out of warranty, but said as a courtesy they will be sending me a new one. I sent them my S/N and my email receipt from Projector People, and they are having a warranty person calling me within 24 hours to get my replacement started. They will place a hold on me CC till the bad projector is returned to them, but all in all I am amazed that they are stepping up 4 years later to right a wrong. I had already resigned myself to having to buy a new projector, so this is just gravy for me. I'm satisfied with my outcome. Will see if the replacement has issues, but hopefully not.


----------



## cjsparky

applegrcoug said:


> Last weekend we were watching a movie and we got the constant shutting off syndrome....every 15 minutes it was shutting down. I got my unit back in 2018 and then repaired in 2020 due to the power supply issue, so I'm clearly out of warranty. What are the options these days?


See my post above. Got mine in March of 2018.


----------



## inspector

Super that Epson is stepping up. Are they sending a new or refurb 5040/6040? Yes, nothing has changed as to my settings.

GOOD LUCK!


----------



## cjsparky

inspector said:


> Super that Epson is stepping up. Are they sending a new or refurb 5040/6040? Yes, nothing has changed as to my settings.
> 
> GOOD LUCK!


They said a refurb, which is totally fine with me. Worst case this gives me some more time to see how the LS12000 reviews before pulling the trigger on one of them, or something else that comes out.


----------



## inspector

I would love to get a LS 12000, but it has NO 3D, so no sale. So, I’ll probably get the 6050.


----------



## inspector

The only problem with getting a 6050 is that it’s taken me 2 years to dial it in. I don’t want to go through that again, so I guess I’m going to have to start perusing the 6050 threads/posts.


----------



## inspector

Good thing about it if I go to a 6050, my extra lamp from my 6040 fits the 6050!


----------



## schamber

I love tacos said:


> that's very helpful, thanks so much! I took the chance and gave the tech the green light last Friday, so he likely already ordered the parts but i will give him a call tomorrow! I was getting cinema filter errors so my hope is that's all it is.
> 
> I also saw a comment somewhere about a firmware update actually resolving some one of these common errors? Anyone have info on that?


Having the exact same issue with mine. Took it to a local Epson center and they just changed the iris part. Got it home fired it up and it was fine. After switching the lens setting, it gave the Cinema Filter error. The part to replace it is a 2 month back order. 

I’m not going to ask Epson to swap for a refurb due to all the horror stories I’ve read here. 

I’ll keep you posted on my experience and results. It may have an ending of a 6050 replacement (Honey, I’m sorry, I just don’t have a choice…  )


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Even though my 6040 is still going strong, I'm looking into getting a new 6050 and a 133" screen.


----------



## b_scott

Got my 4th 5040 replacing. This one has a pink tint even after calibration and is super dim. I’m hoping replacing the bulb will fix but has anyone come across this? This is a white YouTube screen


----------



## b_scott

P.S. I just plugged my other one with the green spot back in and it's brilliant white, so it's not the cable. I also swapped out the bulbs and that didn't help either. I might just try to vacuum out the green spot from a youtube tutorial.


----------



## inspector

b_scott said:


> Got my 4th 5040 replacing. This one has a pink tint even after calibration and is super dim. I’m hoping replacing the bulb will fix but has anyone come across this? This is a white YouTube screen
> View attachment 3248747


Well, that's not supposed to look like that. I have a very faint green blob just left of the center of the picture in the black area when viewing 2.35:1. Most of the time you can't see it.


----------



## Barry7767

b_scott said:


> P.S. I just plugged my other one with the green spot back in and it's brilliant white, so it's not the cable. I also swapped out the bulbs and that didn't help either. I might just try to vacuum out the green spot from a youtube tutorial.


Could you link the tutorial please, have a similar green blob I'd like to try and remove. Thanks


----------



## b_scott

Barry7767 said:


> Could you link the tutorial please, have a similar green blob I'd like to try and remove. Thanks


I don't think there is one with the exact thing I'm going to do, but I'm mixing tear downs with written advice. Here's a tear down of the 6030, very similar and shows which color is where (if you have a green blob, the LCD on the red has dust, because the blue/yellow mix to make the green without the red):






But what I'm going to do is to take off the top and as much as exposes the 3 LCD cables/slots. Then set it vertically on the butt. take a can of air and keep the air can upright so no liquid is sprayed, and burst a couple bursts into where the cables are. Then vacuum the slot for a bit. Do this a couple times. Plug back in and test.


----------



## schamber

inspector said:


> Even though my 6040 is still going strong, I'm looking into getting a new 6050 and a 133" screen.


Highly recommend it. Already did this size with my 6040 and love it. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

schamber said:


> Highly recommend it. Already did this size with my 6040 and love it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Mybe I'll just buy the screen. Da-Lite has a fixed one for $1200, one-inch black aluminum frame...that looks like what I'll get.


----------



## b_scott

b_scott said:


> I don't think there is one with the exact thing I'm going to do, but I'm mixing tear downs with written advice. Here's a tear down of the 6030, very similar and shows which color is where (if you have a green blob, the LCD on the red has dust, because the blue/green mix to make the bluegreen without the red):
> 
> 
> But what I'm going to do is to take off the top and as much as exposes the 3 LCD cables/slots. Then set it vertically on the butt. take a can of air and keep the air can upright so no liquid is sprayed, and burst a couple bursts into where the cables are. Then vacuum the slot for a bit. Do this a couple times. Plug back in and test.


so I tried this and was able to get the faint red spot to go away. However the green spot will not budge. I fear the only way to attempt to remove it myself is to take off the open block cover and take a look to see if there is a speck of dust burned in. But I feel like it'll just be better to get another replacement. It's under warranty for like another month I think.

edit: it did remove the red blob so if you want to try on your out of warranty Epson this is what I did in photos below.


----------



## ba_crane

I’ve looked through 100 plus pages. Can anyone direct me to a link with top sdr/hdr settings? I’ve found and tried multiple but nothing I’m crazy about. I’m on the edge of trying to figure out how to get the best image out of this projector or sell it and try an nx7. Thank you in advance.


----------



## inspector

PM sent.


----------



## inspector

I forgot I put my settings above my signature.


----------



## jesped2

Hey guys,

A simple question: is there ANY 3D glasses model that do not have a green-yellow tinting?


----------



## inspector

My Epson/Value-View and 3D Active Glasses from China have NO yellow/green tint. They are dark gray. What brand are you using?


----------



## jesped2

inspector said:


> My Epson/Value-View and 3D Active Glasses from China have NO yellow/green tint. They are dark gray. What brand are you using?


I used official Epson for years, but lately I'm using a more light and a bit better quality model from Hi-shock ( 3D Glasses & VR Solutions ), but both show a green / dark yellow tinting, clearly noticeable on whites:

















Which models are you using? can you show a real photo like these ones?


----------



## Point Zero

I’m a new member here and would like thank inspector and Dave for the calibration settings. I’m using “inspectors” for SDR and “HarperVision” for HDR.

Thanks again guys for your great work!!


----------



## inspector

You’re welcome! Actually, most of my HDR settings are from Harper Vision with tweaks.

That’s one of my gripes. It’s taken me 4 years to dial in my 6040, if I upgrade to a 6050, I don’t have the patience to spend any more time doing that again.


----------



## inspector

Point Zero said:


> I’m a new member here and would like thank inspector and Dave for the calibration settings. I’m using “inspectors” for SDR and “HarperVision” for HDR.
> 
> Thanks again guys for your great work!!


When you use the Panny 420 with my HDR settings, the Epson really shines…at least to me.


----------



## Point Zero

Sorry don’t get me wrong your hdr settings are good and took me a while to decide which one to go for the only difference I found in my room (white ceiling and light walls) was daves settings displayed colours abit darker with a little more depth and detail and a do say “little” more. Maybe because I have a 5040 and not the 6040 that makes that subtle difference.

I don’t have a panny 420/820 yet I’m afraid, I’m using a nvidia shield pro.

Also I’m embrassed to say I did have my projector professionally calibrated but was curious to compare the settings and preferred your sdr one over mine and your hdr settings were much better than mine. 


You have done a great job inspector and really appreciate your many years of hard work that you have handed over to us for free.


----------



## inspector

I had mine ISFed when I first received my 6040 and it came looking like crap. The only way to properly have it done is to make sure that the person has done your exact projector.in the past. My person had 30 years of experience…


----------



## Point Zero

Thanks for the advice

Im pretty sure he’s done these in the past but how much experience he had on these projectors im not to sure.

inspector just to give you an update after watching a couple more 4K movie clips today as I didn’t have much time yesterday I’ve decided To go with your HDR settings, I just decreased the brightness setting by three notches to 57 and I’m happy with the results.


----------



## inspector

Super! I’m watching CLOSE ENCOUNTERS in 4K tonite.


----------



## inspector

My settings I have given out are for a dark home heater...walls, carpet and ceiling. I have no idea what they will do for a HT that has a white ceiling and walls.

My HT had beige walls (half ways up) and I painted them dark gray, now, the picture is perfect!


----------



## Point Zero

Inspector have you compared SD Blu-ray vs hdr 4K with your settings if so what differences did you see in respects to the colours and brightness between the two ?


----------



## inspector

What's funny is a few BDs look better with the UHD settings. But most of the time I use UHD with 4K and vice versa. 

For some reason, not every BD/4K looks great. The colors are about the same for the 2 settings, but for BD the picture is a tad darker.

Hope that answers your questions.


----------



## Point Zero

Thanks for your reply


----------



## Stephen1254

I haven't updated my firmware for several years now. I just read a comment on Projector Central that suggested the latest firmware for the 5050ub installed 3X pixel shifting. Has the firmware updates for the 5040ub done the same?


----------



## ruggercb

Stephen1254 said:


> I haven't updated my firmware for several years now. I just read a comment on Projector Central that suggested the latest firmware for the 5050ub installed 3X pixel shifting. Has the firmware updates for the 5040ub done the same?


I just looked and the latest FW is 1.14, which came out a year ago. I read the same comment and was curious too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tweakophyte

Does anyone have a recco to get a replacement lamp? I see all kinds of prices below what Epson sells, and it makes me wary. In addition, they seem to say they use the OEM bulb but maybe their own housing?

Any feedback or experience is appreciated.

Thanks,


----------



## jesped2

jesped2 said:


> I used official Epson for years, but lately I'm using a more light and a bit better quality model from Hi-shock ( 3D Glasses & VR Solutions ), but both show a green / dark yellow tinting, clearly noticeable on whites:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which models are you using? can you show a real photo like these ones?


Soo... I guess this kind of yellow tinting is 'normal' and every 3D glasses look like this?


----------



## inspector

Look at the posts above. My 3 varieties are dark gray with NO yellow/green tinting.


----------



## jesped2

inspector said:


> Look at the posts above. My 3 varieties are dark gray with NO yellow/green tinting.


I asked you for pictures but didn't got any answer.

Online pictures can be very deceiving. In a lot of them the 3D glasses look neutral and almost transparent but then you see Youtube reviews and they clearly aren't, they have the same brownish/yellowish/greenish tinting as usual.
I searched the ValueView model you mentioned and even on the promotional pictures they seem to have the same problem:










That's why I asked for specific models and real pictures like the ones I made, which are very easy to do against a full white background screen or just a paper.


----------



## deano86

jesped2 said:


> I asked you for pictures but didn't got any answer.
> 
> Online pictures can be very deceiving. In a lot of them the 3D glasses look neutral and almost transparent but then you see Youtube reviews and they clearly aren't, they have the same brownish/yellowish/greenish tinting as usual.
> I searched the ValueView model you mentioned and even on the promotional pictures they seem to have the same problem:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I asked for specific models and real pictures like the ones I made, which are very easy to do against a full white background screen or just a paper.


For me this is really simple... Active shutter 3D glasses have a tint to them. I think it is way more important to find the model that works best for you with regard to 3D performance and comfort and then use the Spears and Munsil HD benchmark 2nd edition disc 3D patterns to tweak your 3D picture settings to compensate for any tint that you are noticing. But for me, I don't watch 3D with the expectation of perfect calibrated images anyway... as opposed to my increased critical viewing expectations in 2D mode.


----------



## inspector

jesped2 said:


> I asked you for pictures but didn't got any answer.
> 
> Online pictures can be very deceiving. In a lot of them the 3D glasses look neutral and almost transparent but then you see Youtube reviews and they clearly aren't, they have the same brownish/yellowish/greenish tinting as usual.
> I searched the ValueView model you mentioned and even on the promotional pictures they seem to have the same problem:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I asked for specific models and real pictures like the ones I made, which are very easy to do against a full white background screen or just a paper.


Okay, here's the scoop...they don't make Value View anymore...bastards! They work perfectly because they fit right over your glasses, the Epson's are a tad tighter like the 3D Active. I'm really taking care of them, because it's the only pair I have for me.

Now to the tinting. Just did a test with the wife. Did a test with the VV, Epson and 3D Active on a piece of white paper in our bedroom with the ceiling light on with a window shade up.

ALL are tinted, but with one eye blue and the other green/yellow. Turn the glasses around and the tint color changes sides...crazy.

Hope that helps.


----------



## inspector

Just to add, these are very faint tints.


----------



## jesped2

inspector said:


> ALL are tinted, but with one eye blue and the other green/yellow. Turn the glasses around and the tint color changes sides...crazy.


What you are saying seems something like this, right?


----------



## jesped2

deano86 said:


> For me this is really simple... Active shutter 3D glasses have a tint to them. I think it is way more important to find the model that works best for you with regard to 3D performance and comfort and then use the Spears and Munsil HD benchmark 2nd edition disc 3D patterns to tweak your 3D picture settings to compensate for any tint that you are noticing. But for me, I don't watch 3D with the expectation of perfect calibrated images anyway... as opposed to my increased critical viewing expectations in 2D mode.


Seems so. I've been trying different models over the years and so far I got the best performance in general from the Hi-Shock ones. They have less ghosting and are lighter and more comfortable than the Epson's.

Here's a comparison, I have both the Hi-Shock and the Epson:





But I've been wondering for years if maybe there are any better models, with even less ghosting or less tinting. There's so many compatible models around that you never know.


----------



## inspector

jesped2 said:


> What you are saying seems something like this, right?


That’s it!


----------



## deano86

jesped2 said:


> Seems so. I've been trying different models over the years and so far I got the best performance in general from the Hi-Shock ones. They have less ghosting and are lighter and more comfortable than the Epson's.
> 
> Here's a comparison, I have both the Hi-Shock and the Epson:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I've been wondering for years if maybe there are any better models, with even less ghosting or less tinting. There's so many compatible models around that you never know.


Ya... I myself really like the Panasonic TY-ER3D4MU glasses... They are super lightweight (less than an ounce) and comfortable to wear and perform really well. And they have an optional 2D mode to put the glasses in for viewers who may not be as keen on the 3D experience, but they can still share in the movie. But as late as it is now in the 3D game, when you do find a pair of these glasses, most likely the internal rechargeable battery is shot and won't take a charge anymore. You end up having to solder in a replacement battery, but once you do, they are good as new though again.


----------



## inspector

jesped2 said:


> Seems so. I've been trying different models over the years and so far I got the best performance in general from the Hi-Shock ones. They have less ghosting and are lighter and more comfortable than the Epson's.
> 
> Here's a comparison, I have both the Hi-Shock and the Epson:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I've been wondering for years if maybe there are any better models, with even less ghosting or less tinting. There's so many compatible models around that you never know.


If you see ghosting, it’s your settings (your PJ), not the disc.


----------



## jesped2

inspector said:


> If you see ghosting, it’s your settings (your PJ), not the disc.


Sorry, I meant crosstalk, not ghosting. The 6040 has a bit of crosstalk, but after testing it extensively, the crosstalk is less noticeable with the Hi-Shock glasses than the Epson's.

I use 3D mainly for PC gaming, and it's impossible to totally eliminate crosstalk, but besides the color tinting, it seems different 3D glasses perform different for crosstalk too.


----------



## jesped2

deano86 said:


> Ya... I myself really like the Panasonic TY-ER3D4MU glasses... They are super lightweight (less than an ounce) and comfortable to wear and perform really well. And they have an optional 2D mode to put the glasses in for viewers who may not be as keen on the 3D experience, but they can still share in the movie. But as late as it is now in the 3D game, when you do find a pair of these glasses, most likely the internal rechargeable battery is shot and won't take a charge anymore. You end up having to solder in a replacement battery, but once you do, they are good as new though again.


Thanks, will certainly look for that model. If it performs better than what I have I don't mind having to change the battery.

Could you take a picture of the glasses against a pure white screen like this one, please?


----------



## inspector

Ghosting/crosstalk mean the same thing. Glasses don't produce it, so it lays solely on your settings. Once you dial in your settings, it goes away. Out of the over 500 3D discs I own, not one has it. Some are authored crappy like COMIN' AT YA, but those are far and in between.


----------



## b_scott

6th time is the charm so far on my 5040 replacements.

Question - is there a way to know when your lens shift is centered in the projector? I ask because my projector is slightly to stage right of the center of my screen and I want to point as straight as possible before lens shifting so I don’t get any distortion on the edges.


----------



## jesped2

inspector said:


> Ghosting/crosstalk mean the same thing. Glasses don't produce it, so it lays solely on your settings. Once you dial in your settings, it goes away. Out of the over 500 3D discs I own, not one has it. Some are authored crappy like COMIN' AT YA, but those are far and in between.


You're right, it's not the glasses that produce crosstalk, what I'm saying is that they perform differently. In some models the crosstalk is more noticeable than in others. It's not a BIG difference but it's clearly there, and if you make a 4-6 hours daily use of 3D it really is a no-brainer investing in the very best model you can get.

I don't know man, but it seems a bit hyperbolic to say that crosstalk is just a matter of correct settings and it can be totally eliminated, when it is something intrinsic to the active shutter technology. Every active display has some level of crosstalk, same as every passive display has some level of interlacing artifacts.
Yes, you can make the crosstalk less noticeable lowering the glasses Signal Strength in the settings and not using the max power on the lamp, but it is just because you are lowering the overall brightness of the image. The crosstalk is still there, in at least some scenes, at some depth or another depending on your settings.

On top of that, 3D Movies are prerecorded content designed according to the creator(s), whereas 3D gaming is a totally dynamic environment where the creator(s) can't predict any possible shot/pov at any given time.


----------



## inspector

Again, I have no ghosting/crosstalk with MY 3D settings. My. Value View/Epson/3D Active glasses show NO problems.

Hopefully you wiill find glasses or settings that will help you. Me, I’m more than happy enjoying my 3D films ghosting/crosstalk free.


----------



## AFMan916

So I’ve been working on getting my HDFury set up (finally) with my 5040UB and following inputs through Marantz 6011:

PS2 - Composite
PS3 - HDMI
PS4 - HDMI
Panny UB420 - HDMI
Wii - Component
Xbox 360 – HDMI
SNESClassic - HDMI

I did some research prior to hooking up the HDFury, and came across a few good articles with what package to download and install through the web UI. I can’t exactly recall which version/package I installed (could pull the Fury and check) but it was the one that pops up a number of times here on the forum.

Anyway, I’m not nearly as well-versed in the technical aspect as a lot of people here are, so I wanted to post some screenshots of the info screen on the 5040 for each input to get a sense of whether or not I have everything set up correctly. Generally speaking, for having the HDFury set up to either upscale or pass through a 4k signal, do my settings look correct across inputs?

I also had a specific question -

I can get sound on the Wii but no picture. I believe I have the Wii hooked up correctly – I have the Component Video and Stereo Audio both connected to the appropriate CAB/SAT inputs, and those inputs are assigned to CAB/SAT along with the CAB/SAT Composite (PS2). So, when I’m on the CAB/SAT input for the Marantz, I should be able to see/hear either Wii or PS2, depending on which is turned on. Which is what happens, except I can’t get video for the Wii. So Marantz on CAB/SAT, PS2 turned on – see/hear PS2. Same input, turn off PS2 and turn on Wii – hear Wii, but can’t see Wii. Thoughts?

*PS4 - Blu Ray*









*PS4 - Game*








*Xbox - 4k Game*








*Xbox - 4k movie*








*Xbox - Blu Ray*








*PS3 - Game*








*PS3 - Blu Ray*








*Shield - 4k movie*








*Shield Blu Ray*








*Panny - 4k movie*








*Panny - Blu Ray*


----------



## jpgfontes

Hello!
I need a bulb replacement and was wondering if anyone could point me out a place to buy the elplp89 in Portugal or other country in Europe. Epson.pt had it a few days ago but I tried to buy it know and they no longer have it. Thanks.


----------



## Scott Mat

My Epson has developed a vertical blue line just off center.

I hear is it is a difficult/expensive repair. 

Anyone else have this issue and how did you deal with it?

Thanks,

Scott


----------



## YoMaMa84

Scott Mat said:


> My Epson has developed a vertical blue line just off center.
> 
> I hear is it is a difficult/expensive repair.
> 
> Anyone else have this issue and how did you deal with it?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Scott


I've had this same issues for a few months now. It started with 1 line then kept evolving, now its at 5 lines. I opened the projector and clean/reseated the LCD ribbon cable but the issue still remains. If anyone else knows of a fix, I'm all ears, but at this point, i think it's time for a new projector.


----------



## inspector

Sorry for that, but there's a 6050 out there with your name on it!


----------



## tessarji

Another 5040 repair question...

I'm on my second unit, the first was returned under warranty for the power supply issue but the Epson replacement has been great until this week. Sadly it is no longer on warranty.

It's failing on startup with flashing Blue, Orange, Orange failure which is supposedly the dread Auto Iris. I'd have to replace the part myself (I'm reasonably handy) or take it to a service center - has anyone done this repair themselves or know how much it typically costs?


----------



## Archaea

ruggercb said:


> I just looked and the latest FW is 1.14, which came out a year ago. I read the same comment and was curious too.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Guess we newer got a newer firmware past 114?


----------



## inspector

1.14 is the latest.


----------



## KBone

tessarji said:


> Another 5040 repair question...
> 
> I'm on my second unit, the first was returned under warranty for the power supply issue but the Epson replacement has been great until this week. Sadly it is no longer on warranty.
> 
> It's failing on startup with flashing Blue, Orange, Orange failure which is supposedly the dread Auto Iris. I'd have to replace the part myself (I'm reasonably handy) or take it to a service center - has anyone done this repair themselves or know how much it typically costs?


I'm trying to help my father navigate what I'm assuming is a dead 5040ub due to a bad power supply. This unit is at least 5 years old... Any idea on what path I should take? Who did you contact? Never had a warranty claim before on this unit. Is this something Epson will work with me on or are we out of luck?
Thx


----------



## imureh

Hi all, I am wondering if I can get some recommendations for mounting my 6040UB more sturdily. I have recently added a JTR Cap4K to my FV18s and the projector is vibrating up and down like crazy and ends up tilting upwards which then I have adjust back which is annoying. Below is the mount I am using. I need one that does not allow the 6040 to move at all. Appreciate any recommendations



Amazon.com



Ray


----------



## inspector

You should stick with CHIEF, that's what came with the 6040. There are a few on eBay right now.

Good luck!


----------



## Archaea

imureh said:


> Hi all, I am wondering if I can get some recommendations for mounting my 6040UB more sturdily. I have recently added a JTR Cap4K to my FV18s and the projector is vibrating up and down like crazy and ends up tilting upwards which then I have adjust back which is annoying. Below is the mount I am using. I need one that does not allow the 6040 to move at all. Appreciate any recommendations
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> Ray


Chief 4500 aka CHF4500
Chief 2500 aka CHF2500
or Chief RPMAU (universal mount)

Keep in mind that you can use any Epson 50X0UB mount since way back or the newer 5050UB/6050UB or even the LS11000 or 12000. They all use the same chassis, so the same mount works.

Or you could also just buy the mount itself RPMA357 and buy the pole and flange cheaper at a hardware store. Keep in mind you can also search for RPMB357 or RPMC357. The fourth character is the locking key identifier - it doesn't affect performance or fit (only which key it uses for security)








Discount alternatives for Chief or Peerless projector...


A friend of mine was asking about projector mounts, and what he needed to buy. I strongly recommend Chief mounts. They are the best in the business, but the list of things you need to get the full setup can get confusing - and expensive. Peerless is another popular top shelf pick. Both have...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## imureh

Archaea said:


> Chief 4500 aka CHF4500
> Chief 2500 aka CHF2500
> or Chief RPMAU (universal mount)
> 
> Keep in mind that you can use any Epson 50X0UB mount since way back or the newer 5050UB/6050UB or even the LS11000 or 12000. They all use the same chassis, so the same mount works.
> 
> Or you could also just buy the mount itself RPMA357 and buy the pole and flange cheaper at a hardware store. Keep in mind you can also search for RPMB357 or RPMC357. The fourth character is the locking key identifier - it doesn't affect performance or fit (only which key it uses for security)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Discount alternatives for Chief or Peerless projector...
> 
> 
> A friend of mine was asking about projector mounts, and what he needed to buy. I strongly recommend Chief mounts. They are the best in the business, but the list of things you need to get the full setup can get confusing - and expensive. Peerless is another popular top shelf pick. Both have...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Thanks a lot for sharing this info! Not sure if you are familiar with the one I linked that I am using. It’s seems to have great reviews and was working just fine till the cap showed up. Lol. So have any experience with ones that will not allow any or much movement or the projector? I know that vibrations will be hard to control but I am not looking forward to adjusting the PJ every time a bass scene hits.


----------



## imureh

inspector said:


> You should stick with CHIEF, that's what came with the 6040. There are a few on eBay right now.
> 
> Good luck!


I see some of the universal ones but don’t think they come with a pole. On my current mount that I linked I am using an 8 inch pole. I assume I would need something similar for the chief one. Any idea if they come with a pole or which one to use for them if they don’t? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jbnpaul

Archaea said:


> Chief 4500 aka CHF4500
> Chief 2500 aka CHF2500
> or Chief RPMAU (universal mount)
> 
> Keep in mind that you can use any Epson 50X0UB mount since way back or the newer 5050UB/6050UB or even the LS11000 or 12000. They all use the same chassis, so the same mount works.
> 
> Or you could also just buy the mount itself RPMA357 and buy the pole and flange cheaper at a hardware store. Keep in mind you can also search for RPMB357 or RPMC357. The fourth character is the locking key identifier - it doesn't affect performance or fit (only which key it uses for security)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Discount alternatives for Chief or Peerless projector...
> 
> 
> A friend of mine was asking about projector mounts, and what he needed to buy. I strongly recommend Chief mounts. They are the best in the business, but the list of things you need to get the full setup can get confusing - and expensive. Peerless is another popular top shelf pick. Both have...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


What is the difference between chf4500 and chf2500?

Do they come with the plate that fits Epson pro series projectors?

I don’t use a pole. So it is going to mount flush on the ceiling. 
The only issue I have is a slight alignment difference which can be fixed by rotating the pole ( I don’t need/ use a pole)

So I want to see if any of these support rotating the projector (as if rotating the pole) once it is mounted.
I need this to be extremely precise, like literally 3-4 pixels or 1/6 th of an inch on the screen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Archaea

jbnpaul said:


> What is the difference between chf4500 and chf2500?
> 
> Do they come with the plate that fits Epson pro series projectors?
> 
> I don’t use a pole. So it is going to mount flush on the ceiling.
> The only issue I have is a slight alignment difference which can be fixed by rotating the pole ( I don’t need/ use a pole)
> 
> So I want to see if any of these support rotating the projector (as if rotating the pole) once it is mounted.
> I need this to be extremely precise, like literally 3-4 pixels or 1/6 th of an inch on the screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just slightly different variations. No worries. I do not think either of these are flush mount setups. If you want a pole you should look elsewhere.


----------



## deano86

imureh said:


> Hi all, I am wondering if I can get some recommendations for mounting my 6040UB more sturdily. I have recently added a JTR Cap4K to my FV18s and the projector is vibrating up and down like crazy and ends up tilting upwards which then I have adjust back which is annoying. Below is the mount I am using. I need one that does not allow the 6040 to move at all. Appreciate any recommendations
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> Ray


Ya, just to confirm...that mount you are using is unfortunately really crap. My friend still uses one of that style, and every time I am over to his house, the image is in a different spot.. lol. That aluminum frame and those flimsy adjustments will barely hold a projector properly in a perfect environment... much less with monster subs pounding away in your room. You will be much happier with a proper ceiling mount!


----------



## imureh

deano86 said:


> Ya, just to confirm...that mount you are using is unfortunately really crap. My friend still uses one of that style, and every time I am over to his house, the image is in a different spot.. lol. That aluminum frame and those flimsy adjustments will barely hold a projector properly in a perfect environment... much less with monster subs pounding away in your room. You will be much happier with a proper ceiling mount!


Yeah. Lol. I want to go with a chief mount. Just need to find all the pieces I need. Seems like on eBay it’s just the mount. Also likely need an adjustable pole as currently I am using an 8 inch one but It would be 9 or 7 with a chief mount.


----------



## Archaea

You can buy any length NTP 1.5” threaded pole on line, and spray paint it back. I linked a thread a couple posts back which gives you many options.


----------



## imureh

Archaea said:


> You can buy any length NTP 1.5” threaded pole on line, and spray paint it back. I linked a thread a couple posts back which gives you many options.


Yeah thanks. Been looking at some but have not come across an adjustable one. Will keep looking.


----------



## Archaea

imureh said:


> Yeah thanks. Been looking at some but have not come across an adjustable one. Will keep looking.


Every size under the sun here and some with adjustments.





TV and Projector Mount Accessories that work with 1 1/2 Inch NPT Pipe







store.videomountstore.com


----------



## rustolemite

I know this has been asked but not sure how to search a specific forum, so here's my question about bulbs.
What is the difference in the bulb you purchase from Epson for 5050UB that is $399.00 and one from PurelandSupply for $134.60 and MyProjectorLamps for $112.00?
I'm guessing Epson is an original bulb and the others are knockoffs and don't last as long? 

Thanks for any input.

Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projector Lamps | Home Cinema 5050UB Bulbs | Pureland Supply
V13H010L89 | ELPLP89 Replacement Projector Lamp / Bulb | Projector Accessories | Accessories | Epson US
Epson ELPLP89 Projector Lamp with Module - MyProjectorLamps USA


----------



## Tweakophyte

rustolemite said:


> I know this has been asked but not sure how to search a specific forum, so here's my question about bulbs.
> What is the difference in the bulb you purchase from Epson for 5050UB that is $399.00 and one from PurelandSupply for $134.60 and MyProjectorLamps for $112.00?
> I'm guessing Epson is an original bulb and the others are knockoffs and don't last as long?
> 
> Thanks for any input.
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projector Lamps | Home Cinema 5050UB Bulbs | Pureland Supply
> V13H010L89 | ELPLP89 Replacement Projector Lamp / Bulb | Projector Accessories | Accessories | Epson US
> Epson ELPLP89 Projector Lamp with Module - MyProjectorLamps USA


 I wonder this as well. From what I can tell, the bulb itself is the commodity, but the bracket is not. The lower prices sellers talk about the bulb and that they have their own bracket.

That is my speculation, but I'd like a firmer viewpoint.


----------



## rustolemite

Tweakophyte said:


> I wonder this as well. From what I can tell, the bulb itself is the commodity, but the bracket is not. The lower prices sellers talk about the bulb and that they have their own bracket.
> 
> That is my speculation, but I'd like a firmer viewpoint.


I ordered 1 from B&H Photo last year and it was $279 and all I had to do was install it directly into the projector. I run mine for everything and it gets a ton of hours and on weekends it can be on for 15 to 18 hours in a row.


----------



## Loren Heiman

I've been noticing a thin bright line at the bottom edge of the picture. It's not present at the top. Any idea if this can be corrected? Seems to happen on all videos, across multiple apps on my shield pro 2019. Thanks


----------



## inspector

Try moving the picture down.


----------



## rajdori

inspector said:


> PM sent. Enjoy!


Can you please send me? I have panny un420, shield and 5040ub.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

Sure, they are just above my signature.


----------



## raymondtrudeau

Hi I just got a 4040 and so far think it is big upgrade from my 14 year old.Sanyo z2000..
I see they have a firmware ver 1.14 out..what is in that forward update? There is no info on it


----------



## inspector

there is none.


----------



## raymondtrudeau

Thanks inspector for your help here..can you please share your settings with me ?


----------



## deano86

raymondtrudeau said:


> Hi I just got a 4040 and so far think it is big upgrade from my 14 year old.Sanyo z2000..
> I see they have a firmware ver 1.14 out..what is in that forward update? There is no info on it


That update has been out for that model for quite a while.. it is possible your model is already at that level.. what is your current version?.. but, IIRC, I believe it mainly contained the update to automatically put the the projector in Bright Mode 1 when detecting HDR as an incoming signal.


----------



## inspector

I think you’re right. I’m 


deano86 said:


> That update has been out for that model for quite a while.. it is possible your model is already at that level.. what is your current version?.. but, IIRC, I believe it mainly contained the update to automatically put the the projector in Bright Mode 1 when detecting HDR as an incoming signal.


----------



## inspector

raymondtrudeau said:


> Thanks inspector for your help here..can you please share your settings with me ?


Above my signature,


----------



## raymondtrudeau

Thanks guys


----------



## raymondtrudeau

deano86 said:


> That update has been out for that model for quite a while.. it is possible your model is already at that level.. what is your current version?.. but, IIRC, I believe it mainly contained the update to automatically put the the projector in Bright Mode 1 when detecting HDR as an incoming signal.


Looks like I have ver main 113
Video 111


----------



## sddp

Question on how much longer I can use my Epson.

Last night I got my first warning to replace lamp but was still able to use the projector. I have 3715 hours on it. 
Can I still go till around 4,000 hour or more and just expect the light to dim over time? 
The picture is still great and I am 100% with the light output 

I have a new projector that should have ALREADY arrived beg of this year, but looks like I'll get my new one by July and do NOT want to buy a new bulb only to use for 3 more months.


----------



## inspector

If YOU think it still looks good...DON'T BUY A NEW LAMP.

I did the same thing and wasted a new lamp because my lamp was over 4 years old and with 2700 hours and I didn't notice any difference after the change over..

Good luck with your new PJ!


----------



## imureh

I have had my 6040UB for 1.5 years now. Purchased it refurbished from Parker Gwen. I have filed the issue with Epson as I am still under warranty, but wanted to share the video of the flickering issues and black out with folks here to see if they have come across this issue or have a guess what it looks like. Just started happening randomly. The lamp only has 521 hours and is the original one that came with it. Here is a link to my one drive where the movie is saved. Let me know if issues accessing. Thanks









20220509_004405000_iOS.MOV


MOV File



1drv.ms





Ray


----------



## roland6465

imureh said:


> I have had my 6040UB for 1.5 years now. Purchased it refurbished from Parker Gwen. I have filed the issue with Epson as I am still under warranty, but wanted to share the video of the flickering issues and black out with folks here to see if they have come across this issue or have a guess what it looks like. Just started happening randomly. The lamp only has 521 hours and is the original one that came with it. Here is a link to my one drive where the movie is saved. Let me know if issues accessing. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20220509_004405000_iOS.MOV
> 
> 
> MOV File
> 
> 
> 
> 1drv.ms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ray


My first thought is that it looks like a cable issue from the ATV, or the ATV itself. I've only ever seen a projector go to snow or blank out when it has an issue. Have you done a hard reboot of the ATV and/or swapped cables?


----------



## imureh

roland6465 said:


> My first thought is that it looks like a cable issue from the ATV, or the ATV itself. I've only ever seen a projector go to snow or blank out when it has an issue. Have you done a hard reboot of the ATV and/or swapped cables?


I have swapped out the player between the shield which is in the video and zidoo 9x. Both have the same issue. Swapping the cable is not going to be easy as it’s running through the attic. I could connect one directly within the room I guess to rule the cable out. When the unit powers on, even the epson fades away and comes back.


----------



## deano86

imureh said:


> I have swapped out the player between the shield which is in the video and zidoo 9x. Both have the same issue. Swapping the cable is not going to be easy as it’s running through the attic. I could connect one directly within the room I guess to rule the cable out. When the unit powers on, even the epson fades away and comes back.


If the issue is there on the Epson splash screen, I would definitely think that eliminates it being a cable issue. I assume this defect also is there when displaying the internal Epson home menu screen too?... I suppose, just to be absolutely certain, you could switch to the 2nd HDMI input and see if anything changes....


----------



## raymondtrudeau

Hi I just purchased a used Epson pro cinema 4040 I have a ceiling mounted the current HDMI cable I have now is monoprice 4K high speed 10.2 GB per second it will onlydo 4k at 24htz.. when I play an HDR movie and hit info all I get is 8-bit and bt-709 color.. so the cable I have will not support HDR correct?

Can someone suggest a 25-ft or 30 ft active cable that will support HDR..
Also I guess I would need a cable to go from my Nvidia Shield to my receiver


----------



## deano86

raymondtrudeau said:


> Hi I just purchased a used Epson pro cinema 4040 I have a ceiling mounted the current HDMI cable I have now is monoprice 4K high speed 10.2 GB per second it will onlydo 4k at 24htz.. when I play an HDR movie and hit info all I get is 8-bit and bt-709 color.. so the cable I have will not support HDR correct?
> 
> Can someone suggest a 25-ft or 30 ft active cable that will support HDR..
> Also I guess I would need a cable to go from my Nvidia Shield to my receiver


That most likely is not your cable and something else is not correct if you are not getting HDR to activate in your 4040. You will want to use HDMI 1 on the 4040, but remember that even though that port is HDMI 2.0 HDR capable, speed-wise it can only handle up to 4k/24hz anyway. So, you should still be getting an HDR signal through..and actually 8 bit is probably correct for the bit depth for the 4K signal. Are you sure, that the projector isn't switching to BT 2020 mode and activating one of the HDR bright modes? If it doesn't show BT2020 on the Info screen, then something else is blocking HDR from getting through.. What is your receiver or preamp?


----------



## imureh

deano86 said:


> If the issue is there on the Epson splash screen, I would definitely think that eliminates it being a cable issue. I assume this defect also is there when displaying the internal Epson home menu screen too?... I suppose, just to be absolutely certain, you could switch to the 2nd HDMI input and see if anything changes....


The epson guys had me reinstall the bulb but that did not help. It works ok for a few min then has the flickering and black out and then for a few. This did start happening when I had added a cap 4K to the room so there is a lot more shaking in the room. I am even changed out the mount to a chief mount to stabilize. Not sure if that caused it or a coincidence.


----------



## ryudoadema

inspector said:


> Again, I have no ghosting/crosstalk with MY 3D settings. My. Value View/Epson/3D Active glasses show NO problems.
> 
> Hopefully you wiill find glasses or settings that will help you. Me, I’m more than happy enjoying my 3D films ghosting/crosstalk free.


Must be luck of the draw or individual tolerance. I remember people exchanging 5040's early on several times to get one with minimal cross-talk. With the right settings (3d brightness low is the big one because it keeps each shutter on the glasses the shortest) I can go a movie or two without noticing any unless I look for it. Medium 3d brightness...forget about it. Not to say it's terrible, but I will see it in pretty much every 3d-er.

Just to make sure, I used your settings on both the 5040ub and the UB420. The cross-talk was actually a little worse using the ub420 than the Zidoo streaming from my NAS that I normally use. I even used all 4 different glasses I have including Epsons and the even better XPAND X105-RF-X1, and they made very little difference. My reference scenes were the ring pop-out in Iron Mask/Viy 2 @ 3:06, and the hanging lights in the caves in the first Hobbit disc @ 3:19. Since I couldn't find the hobbit disc and Iron Mask was region-locked, I also used GvK @ 7:47 (the door frame and lights on the ground) to compare Zidoo/UB420 crosstalk. That is the first time-stamp on the Zidoo I noticed any ghosting, while I noticed some almost immediately and intermittently up to that time on the UB420.


----------



## inspector

That’s too bad about your ghosting. Watch CEASE FIRE at the very beginning when the Howitzer hits you in the face…now that’s a pop-out!

I guess I’m lucky that I see ZERO ghosting.


----------



## ryudoadema

inspector said:


> That’s too bad about your ghosting. Watch CEASE FIRE at the very beginning when the Howitzer hits you in the face…now that’s a pop-out!
> 
> I guess I’m lucky that I see ZERO ghosting.


I have it, but haven't watched it. I will have to check it out!

I would love to have an Epson UB with no cross-talk and/or not see it. I would have very little drive to keep looking for upgrades or side-grades like the x3000i which is dlp and pretty much guaranteed c/t free. Then I'd loose that sweet contrast and inky blacks...


----------



## inspector

ryudoadema said:


> I have it, but haven't watched it. I will have to check it out!
> 
> I would love to have an Epson UB with no cross-talk and/or not see it. I would have very little drive to keep looking for upgrades or side-grades like the x3000i which is dlp and pretty much guaranteed c/t free. Then I'd loose that sweet contrast and inky blacks...


I actually use my Panny for UHD and the Sammy for everything else.


----------



## EEE272

Sorry to relaunch this topic. A lot of people have already discussed this topic but it was difficult for me to grasp what the conclusion was.
When using the e shift, there is a little bit of noise. Depending on the framerate, the noise can be higher or lower. Mine is dead silent at 50 Hz, a bit noisy at 60, silent at 25 but more noisy at 24 Hz.
Do others also hear the e shift noise change depending on the framerate. Is 50 Hz the silent choice for everyone? Or does it depend on the frequency of the current?
Thanks!


----------



## raymondtrudeau

This is the firmware I have on my Epson pro cinema 4040 is this the latest firmware thanks


----------



## deano86

raymondtrudeau said:


> This is the firmware I have on my Epson pro cinema 4040 is this the latest firmware thanks


I don't believe so .... I think the latest for main is 114.. but it should easy enough to go onto Epsons site ...under support for your model and confirm..and also download the latest.


----------



## inspector

Just thinking out loud. Just watched last night TREASURE OF THE FOUR CROWNS, it played perfectly with my settings for 3D.

I don't know why others don't use them or at least try them out? They are above my signature.

If the 3D Film Archive had done the work on COMIN' AT YA!, we would have TWO classics...just joking, only the 3D.


----------



## deano86

inspector said:


> I don't know why others don't use them or at least try them out? They are above my signature.


Possibly, because as far as I can tell, that link doesn't go to anything resembling your settings... when I click on it anyway...


----------



## dagameballa

Can someone help quickly please. I have a chance to get a 5040 for free. The catch is you plug it in and it literally does nothing. I'm assuming that Epson won't help being this is out of warranty. What is Epson charging people to fix the power supply issue out of warranty?


----------



## inspector

deano86 said:


> Possibly, because as far as I can tell, that link doesn't go to anything resembling your settings... when I click on it anyway...


I just logged off and came on as a visitor and my link works perfectly. Sorry it doesn't for you.

PM sent.


----------



## deano86

inspector said:


> I just logged off and came on as a visitor and my link works perfectly. Sorry it doesn't for you.
> 
> PM sent.


Oops .. no worries.. this time it worked just fine...


----------



## dagameballa

Anyone?


----------



## ruggercb

dagameballa said:


> Anyone?


I’m pretty sure it will be sent to an authorized repair center, not Epson. I’d find one closest to you and call them, see what they say. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jesped2

It may be of interest to somebody: just found out you can force 2560x1440 4:2:2 12bit or 2560x1440 4:4:4 10bit modes that work in 3D.

Using CRU ( Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) ):


----------



## luisalbertokid

Dear friends from AVSForum, greetings from Brazil 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
I got a Home Cinema 5040ub last week (a little late in the game, but OMG what a beautiful machine) and I have calibrated the projector for both SDR and HDR, and have stored the calibrated presets on the memory positions (9 out of 10 by now). The problem is that when I load a memory preset the PJ does not recall the correct settings for video signal (that is, HDMI video range, Color Space, Dynamic Range). It recalls the other settings correctly (video levels, enhancement presets, dynamic iris, power mode etc), but if the last content I watched was BT709 the PJ will stay in this mode regardless of the memory preset I load and the content that is being fed - which means whenever I switch from SDR content to HDR I have to manually switch to REC2020/Auto Bright 1 within the memory preset I have previously saved. I believe this must be a glitch, and I'd very much like to know how can I solve that. I'm sorry if this is a dumb question but we have little to none information regarding the A/V world here in my country.
Thank you all very much! 🤗


----------



## Daverey06

I have had some difficultly searching specific forums to find the information I am looking for, so I am hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction here. I realize that when it comes to projectors, that it's not always as easy to recommend best settings since unlike most tvs, the picture can vary depending on the type of room it's in. In my case, my walls are a light tan and I use darkening curtains to keep the room as dark as I can despite not having dark paint on the walls. 

That said, I am currently using a Panasonic DP-UB420 and have it set to SDR mode for all 4K content with BT2020 turned on because I am told that it makes the colors appear better than with HDR on since the Epson 5040UB doesn't do HDR very well. Is the SDR setting the consensus as the best setting for this player to be set to when combined with the 5040UB? I want to get the most out of this combination, but I am not certain if having it on SDR is really the best. 

Also, for a dark room with bright walls, is there any ideal settings for both SDR and HDR content to really make it the most accurate but still impressive picture possible? My current settings seems to make the black levels appear more gray, but with a white screen and light walls, perhaps that is inevitable. I want to make sure I can still see detail even in dark scenes, but also to avoid the gray look to dark scenes as well if possible. 

Any advice would be appreciated!


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> These are the settings I've been using for a couple years and am very happy with.
> 
> The setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.
> 
> When you do your Panny 420/820, if you have one, do the same. PLAYER SETTINGS; HDMI, ADVANCED SETTINGS, VIDEO, AUDIO, 3D and HD OPTIMZER on remote.
> 
> UHD NATURAL
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 60
> 58
> 50
> 59
> 5 5 5
> 65K
> 4
> 49,49,50,50,49,43
> PRESET 4
> 6 6
> 40 30
> GAMMA 2
> RGB
> 51 51 61
> 57,58,50
> 55,55,50
> 58,75,50
> 54,71,62
> 54,60,50
> ON
> 0
> MEDIUM
> HIGH
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO BRIGHT
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD NATURAL
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 51
> 49
> 50
> 59
> 5 5 5
> 6K
> 4
> 49,49,50,50,44,43
> PRESET 3
> 5 5
> 5 5
> GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0
> same as UHD (try 2 like for UHD)
> 0
> -6
> MEDIUM
> NORMAL
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD B&W (B&W CINEMA) I like my films to look black and white
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 50
> 42
> 37
> 43
> 0 0 0
> 6 5
> 50 for all
> PRESET 1
> 0 0
> 0 0
> GAMMA 1
> OFF
> 0
> MEDIUM
> NORMAL
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO
> AUTO
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 51
> 49
> 50
> 60
> 5 5 5
> 5 5
> 46,48,46,48,59,49
> NORMAL
> PRESET 3
> 4
> 1
> 5 5
> 5 5
> GAMMA 1
> 50,58,48
> 57,51,46
> 61,50,44
> 46,50,41
> 52,49,66
> 52,23,69
> OFF
> -12
> HIGH
> OFF
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> 3D SETUP
> 
> AUTO
> 0
> THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
> MEDIUM
> ON
> 
> AUTO
> FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast running, using FAST clears it up)
> 
> PANNY 420
> 
> SETUP PLAYER SETTINGS
> 
> _HDMI_
> 
> 4K
> 4K(60p)(4:4:4)
> AUTO
> AUTO
> AUTO ONLY
> ON
> 
> _ADVANCED_
> 
> YcbCr (AUTO)
> AUTO(12 bit Priority)
> HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
> ON
> OFF
> BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
> OFF
> AUTO
> AUTO
> ON
> AUTO
> 
> _VIDEO_
> 
> AUTO
> ON
> 
> _AUDIO_
> 
> OFF
> ---
> UP TO 96 kHz
> SURROUND ENCODED
> NORMAL
> ---
> O
> OFF
> 
> _3D_
> 
> AUTO
> ORIGINAL
> OFF
> 
> REMOTE
> 
> _HD OPTIMIZER_
> 
> STANDARD
> +8
> 0
> +4
> -4


These look like interesting settings worth trying. Would you recommend them in a room with light colored walls? I use black out curtains, but I am not sure how much bright walls might affect picture. 

Also, how do your UHD and standard bluray settings look as far as black levels are concerned? I would love to get better black levels without sacrificing detail, although I know a projector is not going to look OLED level good.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> I have had some difficultly searching specific forums to find the information I am looking for, so I am hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction here. I realize that when it comes to projectors, that it's not always as easy to recommend best settings since unlike most tvs, the picture can vary depending on the type of room it's in. In my case, my walls are a light tan and I use darkening curtains to keep the room as dark as I can despite not having dark paint on the walls.
> 
> That said, I am currently using a Panasonic DP-UB420 and have it set to SDR mode for all 4K content with BT2020 turned on because I am told that it makes the colors appear better than with HDR on since the Epson 5040UB doesn't do HDR very well. Is the SDR setting the consensus as the best setting for this player to be set to when combined with the 5040UB? I want to get the most out of this combination, but I am not certain if having it on SDR is really the best.
> 
> Also, for a dark room with bright walls, is there any ideal settings for both SDR and HDR content to really make it the most accurate but still impressive picture possible? My current settings seems to make the black levels appear more gray, but with a white screen and light walls, perhaps that is inevitable. I want to make sure I can still see detail even in dark scenes, but also to avoid the gray look to dark scenes as well if possible.
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated!


I'm new to the 5040 too (less than a week) but I can say *use HDR*, it's pretty good. I come from a BenQ HT3550 which has a very bright and colourful HDR. At first I thought the "effect" was much better on the BenQ, but now I prefer the 5040, its HDR looks more real and natural and less of an "effect". I suggest trying ProjectorReviews HDR settings (be sure to check the updated calibration which are screenshots of the projector's menu), Sound&Vision settings (a little dark but worked very weel on The Batman) and also this settings from people of this Forum: Whose HDR and SDR calibration settings are you using on...
I have specific calibrations for Bright Cinema, Digital Cinema and Cinema. Digital seems the best to my eyes, but you may eventually prefer some of the other modes depending on content. And you'll also have to use lamp in full power and crank up contrast and color saturation to 56, 57 (depending on your personal taste)


----------



## deano86

luisalbertokid said:


> Dear friends from AVSForum, greetings from Brazil 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
> I got a Home Cinema 5040ub last week (a little late in the game, but OMG what a beautiful machine) and I have calibrated the projector for both SDR and HDR, and have stored the calibrated presets on the memory positions (9 out of 10 by now). The problem is that when I load a memory preset the PJ does not recall the correct settings for video signal (that is, HDMI video range, Color Space, Dynamic Range). It recalls the other settings correctly (video levels, enhancement presets, dynamic iris, power mode etc), but if the last content I watched was BT709 the PJ will stay in this mode regardless of the memory preset I load and the content that is being fed - which means whenever I switch from SDR content to HDR I have to manually switch to REC2020/Auto Bright 1 within the memory preset I have previously saved. I believe this must be a glitch, and I'd very much like to know how can I solve that. I'm sorry if this is a dumb question but we have little to none information regarding the A/V world here in my country.
> Thank you all very much! 🤗


Yes, the memory presets are not perfect, in that they will not switch to your preferred custom picture settings for HDR, but if your source is actually outputting an HDR signal, then at least your projector should switch automatically to its REC2020 Auto Bright mode. Not sure why this is not happening... What is your source? Are you sure your are receiving an HDR signal?

You will still have to select your preferred Picture mode setting to go along with that color space though. And make sure your firmware is up to date, so that it will choose the brightest HDR setting Bright 1 as a default.


----------



## luisalbertokid

deano86 said:


> Yes, the memory presets are not perfect, in that they will not switch to your preferred custom picture settings for HDR, but if your source is actually outputting an HDR signal, then at least your projector should switch automatically to its REC2020 Auto Bright mode. Not sure why this is not happening... What is your source? Are you sure your are receiving an HDR signal?
> 
> You will still have to select your preferred Picture mode setting to go along with that color space though. And make sure your firmware is up to date, so that it will choose the brightest HDR setting Bright 1 as a default.


Hello, thank you for the feedback!
Maybe I should leave all these settings in *AUTO* instead of BT2020/Auto Bright 1? If I do so will it automatically change from BT2020 to REC709 and from Auto Bright 1 to SDR and the other way around, depending on content? Yes, the projector is actually displaying 4K/HDR/4.2.2 in 8 bits 😉


----------



## inspector

Just use my settings and Time to get a Panny 420 to make UHD HDR shine!


----------



## inspector

luisalbertokid said:


> I'm new to the 5040 too (less than a week) but I can say *use HDR*, it's pretty good. I come from a BenQ HT3550 which has a very bright and colourful HDR. At first I thought the "effect" was much better on the BenQ, but now I prefer the 5040, its HDR looks more real and natural and less of an "effect". I suggest trying ProjectorReviews HDR settings (be sure to check the updated calibration which are screenshots of the projector's menu), Sound&Vision settings (a little dark but worked very weel on The Batman) and also this settings from people of this Forum: Whose HDR and SDR calibration settings are you using on...
> I have specific calibrations for Bright Cinema, Digital Cinema and Cinema. Digital seems the best to my eyes, but you may eventually prefer some of the other modes depending on content. And you'll also have to use lamp in full power and crank up contrast and color saturation to 56, 57 (depending on your personal taste)
> [/QUOTe )
> 
> Try using my servings above my sig.
> 
> John


----------



## inspector

luisalbertokid said:


> Hello, thank you for the feedback!
> Maybe I should leave all these settings in *AUTO* instead of BT2020/Auto Bright 1? If I do so will it automatically change from BT2020 to REC709 and from Auto Bright 1 to SDR and the other way around, depending on content? Yes, the projector is actually displaying 4K/HDR/4.2.2 in 8 bits 😉


try using my settings above my sig.


----------



## luisalbertokid

inspector said:


> try using my settings above my sig.


Thank you very much for sharing your settings. 😃 I'm actually very happy with my settings also, have been using a mix of ProjectorReviews/Sound&Vision/people from the Forum plus my personal taste and the image looks quite good. But I'll definitely try yours!
So regarding my previous question, should I set Color Space/Dynamic Range to Auto and the PJ will choose the right format?
Thanks again!


----------



## deano86

luisalbertokid said:


> Thank you very much for sharing your settings. 😃 I'm actually very happy with my settings also, have been using a mix of ProjectorReviews/Sound&Vision/people from the Forum plus my personal taste and the image looks quite good. But I'll definitely try yours!
> So regarding my previous question, should I set Color Space/Dynamic Range to Auto and the PJ will choose the right format?
> Thanks again!


Yes, Auto... in essence you were manually overiding it...So, when you start to play an HDR source, the color space should switch BT2020/ Auto Bright 1... if it switches to Auto Bright 2, then your firmware is an older version and should be updated. 
But, I just wish the projector would switch to your last used HDR picture mode and adjustments when it detects an HDR input. It does do this automatically when it detects a 3D signal... it puts itself in your last used 3D picture mode automatically.


----------



## luisalbertokid

deano86 said:


> Yes, Auto... in essence you were manually overiding it...So, when you start to play an HDR source, the color space should switch BT2020/ Auto Bright 1... if it switches to Auto Bright 2, then your firmware is an older version and should be updated.
> But, I just wish the projector would switch to your last used HDR picture mode and adjustments when it detects an HDR input. It does do this automatically when it detects a 3D signal... it puts itself in your last used 3D picture mode automatically.


Thanks! 😃


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> These are the settings I've been using for a couple years and am very happy with.
> 
> The setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.
> 
> When you do your Panny 420/820, if you have one, do the same. PLAYER SETTINGS; HDMI, ADVANCED SETTINGS, VIDEO, AUDIO, 3D and HD OPTIMZER on remote.
> 
> UHD NATURAL
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 60
> 58
> 50
> 59
> 5 5 5
> 65K
> 4
> 49,49,50,50,49,43
> PRESET 4
> 6 6
> 40 30
> GAMMA 2
> RGB
> 51 51 61
> 57,58,50
> 55,55,50
> 58,75,50
> 54,71,62
> 54,60,50
> ON
> 0
> MEDIUM
> HIGH
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO BRIGHT
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD NATURAL
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 51
> 49
> 50
> 59
> 5 5 5
> 6K
> 4
> 49,49,50,50,44,43
> PRESET 3
> 5 5
> 5 5
> GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0
> same as UHD (try 2 like for UHD)
> 0
> -6
> MEDIUM
> NORMAL
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD B&W (B&W CINEMA) I like my films to look black and white
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 50
> 42
> 37
> 43
> 0 0 0
> 6 5
> 50 for all
> PRESET 1
> 0 0
> 0 0
> GAMMA 1
> OFF
> 0
> MEDIUM
> NORMAL
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO
> AUTO
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 51
> 49
> 50
> 60
> 5 5 5
> 5 5
> 46,48,46,48,59,49
> NORMAL
> PRESET 3
> 4
> 1
> 5 5
> 5 5
> GAMMA 1
> 50,58,48
> 57,51,46
> 61,50,44
> 46,50,41
> 52,49,66
> 52,23,69
> OFF
> -12
> HIGH
> OFF
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> 3D SETUP
> 
> AUTO
> 0
> THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
> MEDIUM
> ON
> 
> AUTO
> FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast running, using FAST clears it up)
> 
> PANNY 420
> 
> SETUP PLAYER SETTINGS
> 
> _HDMI_
> 
> 4K
> 4K(60p)(4:4:4)
> AUTO
> AUTO
> AUTO ONLY
> ON
> 
> _ADVANCED_
> 
> YcbCr (AUTO)
> AUTO(12 bit Priority)
> HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
> ON
> OFF
> BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
> OFF
> AUTO
> AUTO
> ON
> AUTO
> 
> _VIDEO_
> 
> AUTO
> ON
> 
> _AUDIO_
> 
> OFF
> ---
> UP TO 96 kHz
> SURROUND ENCODED
> NORMAL
> ---
> O
> OFF
> 
> _3D_
> 
> AUTO
> ORIGINAL
> OFF
> 
> REMOTE
> 
> _HD OPTIMIZER_
> 
> STANDARD
> +8
> 0
> +4
> -4


What does this mean in your instructions? "same as UHD (try 2 like for UHD)"

Sorry but I am not sure what this is referring to specifically. Thanks!


----------



## raymondtrudeau

luisalbertokid said:


> Thank you very much for sharing your settings. 😃 I'm actually very happy with my settings also, have been using a mix of ProjectorReviews/Sound&Vision/people from the Forum plus my personal taste and the image looks quite good. But I'll definitely try yours!
> So regarding my previous question, should I set Color Space/Dynamic Range to Auto and the PJ will choose the right format?
> Thanks again!


Hi can you share with me your settings that you use ? Thanks


----------



## Daverey06

Can someone give me good settings for an UHD disc like The Batman? Do dark movies require separate settings than your typical UHD settings on the projector? I know Ultra Black is in the name of the projector, but the blacks look gray to me, and I don't know how to achieve better black levels without sacrificing picture detail.


----------



## Daverey06

monkaquinas said:


> From a UB820 thread post-
> Panasonic UB420 / UB820 & SDR2020 (aka, the projector solution)
> The Panasonic UB420 & UB820 are the answer for physical 4K media. With the built-in SDR2020 Tone Mapping, 4K discs behave exactly like HD discs and you never have to deal with HDR shenanigans or titles looking 'dark'. The UB420/UB820 will make you think you bought a new projector. Configured with the settings below, your projector will not see a ‘HDR’ signal so it will not probably not switch to whatever Gamma curve your projector uses. The UB820 is still interpreting the HDR data off the disc and sending a ‘full range’ signal to the projector so you are not leaving any color or brightness 'on the table'. You get beautiful high resolution and wide color gamut images without the hassle.
> 
> Panasonic UB420 / UB820 Optimal Settings for Projectors (SDR2020):
> On the UB420 / UB820:
> Settings>HDMI>Advanced>HDR/Color Gamut Output>SDR/BT.2020
> Settings>HDMI>Advanced>HDR/Color Gamut Output>HDR TV Type>Basic Luminance LCD and Projector
> Settings>Audio>Settings for High Clarity Sound>Front Panel Display>Off (UB820 preference)
> 
> On the UB420 / UB820 During 4K Disc Playback:
> Options (remote button)>Video Settings>Optimum HDR Adjustment>HDR Optimizer>On (preference)
> Options (remote button)>Video Settings>Optimum HDR Adjustment>Dynamic Range Conversion Adjustment>+4 to +8 (preference)
> 
> Regarding HDR Optimizer, you lose some brightness but gain detail in explosions and similar. I started with this off but now have it on. Dynamic Range Conversion Adjustment will depend a lot on your screen size, bigger screens will want more. I have left the other settings at defaults (so far).
> 
> On the Projector (JVC specific settings here):
> Color Profile>BT.2020Gamma>2.4 (or 2 for the 5040)


Do you have any ideal settings you use for UHD bluray, standard bluray and video games you suggest for the 5040UB paired with the Panny 420? I am trying to achieve good black levels but still retain detail.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> What does this mean in your instructions? "same as UHD (try 2 like for UHD)"
> 
> Sorry but I am not sure what this is referring to specifically. Thanks!


He meant you can use the same gamma settings from HDR (all those numbers, you have tho choose "customised" on the menu and add the values in the graphic) or you can simply select "2" as the gamma value.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> Can someone give me good settings for an UHD disc like The Batman? Do dark movies require separate settings than your typical UHD settings on the projector? I know Ultra Black is in the name of the projector, but the blacks look gray to me, and I don't know how to achieve better black levels without sacrificing picture detail.


I have 3 different calibrations for HDR: cinema (which I got from Sound&Vision), digital cinema and bright cinema (those are from ProjectorReviews - the upgraded settings, not the old ones). I change calibration based on content. Cinema was great for Batman, with very deep blacks and good colors.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Where you can get good calibration settings to the 5040:

Sound&Vision original review (google it);
ProjectorReviews review (be sure to get the updated calibration, the screen shots from the projector's menu);
and here: Whose HDR and SDR calibration settings are you using on...
I use all those and they are quite good. I also upgraded to the latest firmware (bought mine used and it had the original version) and the image really improved, HDR is much brighter and colourful. This is really an amazing projector!


----------



## Daverey06

luisalbertokid said:


> Where you can get good calibration settings to the 5040:
> 
> Sound&Vision original review (google it);
> ProjectorReviews review (be sure to get the updated calibration, the screen shots from the projector's menu);
> and here: Whose HDR and SDR calibration settings are you using on...
> I use all those and they are quite good. I also upgraded to the latest firmware (bought mine used and it had the original version) and the image really improved, HDR is much brighter and colourful. This is really an amazing projector!


From what I am reading it still sounds like with the 5040UB that to get the best out of its abilities it’s better to set it to BT2020 SDR than HDR, even with HDR content, but it just feels wrong to me in some ways. According to most though even by setting it to SDR, you aren’t leaving any features “on the table” so to speak if it’s set to BT2020, and it gets more out of the projector since it can’t do HDR very well.


----------



## inspector

Daverey06 said:


> What does this mean in your instructions? "same as UHD (try 2 like for UHD)"
> 
> Sorry but I am not sure what this is referring to specifically. Thanks!


What I meant was use GAMMA 2 for BD/SD the same as you use it for UHD.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> From what I am reading it still sounds like with the 5040UB that to get the best out of its abilities it’s better to set it to BT2020 SDR than HDR, even with HDR content, but it just feels wrong to me in some ways. According to most though even by setting it to SDR, you aren’t leaving any features “on the table” so to speak if it’s set to BT2020, and it gets more out of the projector since it can’t do HDR very well.


HDR content in SDR looks terrible.


----------



## Daverey06

luisalbertokid said:


> HDR content in SDR looks terrible.


Sorry, I forgot to specify that SDR is better if you have it paired with a Panasonic 4K blu-ray player like the DP 820UB or the DP 420UB. Those can set SDR to BT2020 and almost everyone seems to agree that putting it to SDR BT2020 is best with those players because projectors can't do HDR well. This review speaks of why it works well to do this for projectors. If you don't have a player like one of those though, I'm sure you are right that HDR is best. Panasonic DP-UB820 Ultra HD Blu-ray Player Review | Sound & Vision (soundandvision.com)


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> Sorry, I forgot to specify that SDR is better if you have it paired with a Panasonic 4K blu-ray player like the DP 820UB or the DP 420UB. Those can set SDR to BT2020 and almost everyone seems to agree that putting it to SDR BT2020 is best with those players because projectors can't do HDR well. This review speaks of why it works well to do this for projectors. If you don't have a player like one of those though, I'm sure you are right that HDR is best. Panasonic DP-UB820 Ultra HD Blu-ray Player Review | Sound & Vision (soundandvision.com)


Yeah, there are also people who use Zappiti and HDFury to convert HDR to SDR like the Panny players but I guess that even having gear like that I would still prefer HDR>HDR, I quite like the extra brightness/pop that it brings to the image 😉


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> These are the settings I've been using for a couple years and am very happy with.
> 
> The setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.
> 
> When you do your Panny 420/820, if you have one, do the same. PLAYER SETTINGS; HDMI, ADVANCED SETTINGS, VIDEO, AUDIO, 3D and HD OPTIMZER on remote.
> 
> UHD NATURAL
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 60
> 58
> 50
> 59
> 5 5 5
> 65K
> 4
> 49,49,50,50,49,43
> PRESET 4
> 6 6
> 40 30
> GAMMA 2
> RGB
> 51 51 61
> 57,58,50
> 55,55,50
> 58,75,50
> 54,71,62
> 54,60,50
> ON
> 0
> MEDIUM
> HIGH
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO BRIGHT
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD NATURAL
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 51
> 49
> 50
> 59
> 5 5 5
> 6K
> 4
> 49,49,50,50,44,43
> PRESET 3
> 5 5
> 5 5
> GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0
> same as UHD (try 2 like for UHD)
> 0
> -6
> MEDIUM
> NORMAL
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD B&W (B&W CINEMA) I like my films to look black and white
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 50
> 42
> 37
> 43
> 0 0 0
> 6 5
> 50 for all
> PRESET 1
> 0 0
> 0 0
> GAMMA 1
> OFF
> 0
> MEDIUM
> NORMAL
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO
> AUTO
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 51
> 49
> 50
> 60
> 5 5 5
> 5 5
> 46,48,46,48,59,49
> NORMAL
> PRESET 3
> 4
> 1
> 5 5
> 5 5
> GAMMA 1
> 50,58,48
> 57,51,46
> 61,50,44
> 46,50,41
> 52,49,66
> 52,23,69
> OFF
> -12
> HIGH
> OFF
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> 3D SETUP
> 
> AUTO
> 0
> THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
> MEDIUM
> ON
> 
> AUTO
> FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast running, using FAST clears it up)
> 
> PANNY 420
> 
> SETUP PLAYER SETTINGS
> 
> _HDMI_
> 
> 4K
> 4K(60p)(4:4:4)
> AUTO
> AUTO
> AUTO ONLY
> ON
> 
> _ADVANCED_
> 
> YcbCr (AUTO)
> AUTO(12 bit Priority)
> HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
> ON
> OFF
> BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
> OFF
> AUTO
> AUTO
> ON
> AUTO
> 
> _VIDEO_
> 
> AUTO
> ON
> 
> _AUDIO_
> 
> OFF
> ---
> UP TO 96 kHz
> SURROUND ENCODED
> NORMAL
> ---
> O
> OFF
> 
> _3D_
> 
> AUTO
> ORIGINAL
> OFF
> 
> REMOTE
> 
> _HD OPTIMIZER_
> 
> STANDARD
> +8
> 0
> +4
> -4


Just curious, but I take it you've probably seen that there are some who say it's better to set your Panasonic DP UB420 and 820 to do an HDR to SDR conversion with a BT2020 colorspace when using a projector to get the best possible picture due to the limited brightness that an Epson 5040UB can produce. I am wondering if there is any particular reason you still use HDR BT2020 rather than SDR BT2020. Does HDR still look better to you? Most have recommended to me the SDR BT2020 setting on the Panny, but I am just conflicted as to what is the best. I thought the option to choose basic luminance projector would make it so that HDR did work well on any projector. Is this a big debate in the forums or something? I see a lot of people reference this article. Panasonic DP-UB820 Ultra HD Blu-ray Player Review | Sound & Vision (soundandvision.com)


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> What I meant was use GAMMA 2 for BD/SD the same as you use it for UHD.


Sorry again for my confusion, but are you then suggesting to set Gamma to 2 or to customize it to these numbers? 

GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0 

Is there a reason you listed both? Just want to be sure I put this in correctly. Thanks.


----------



## Daverey06

JumpDontThink said:


> I've read through this thread many times. Used many of the posted user settings. Experimented for 2 years with this PJ to get HDR looking good and never been truly content. But I think I've stumbled across something which looks good.
> 
> The main points
> 
> *UB820*
> Colour output: SDR/BT2020
> HDR Type: Basic Luminance LCD & Projector
> HDR Optimiser: On
> Dynamic range conversion: -6
> 
> *Epson*
> Digital Cinema Mode
> High Lamp
> Auto iris
> Super white on
> Gamma -2
> 
> Then adjust brightness and contrast settings against some patterns for your environment.
> 
> Then I just simply copied my colour settings from my SDR calibration.


Would you be willing to share what your color settings you used are? Thanks!


----------



## luisalbertokid

I'm new to the 5040ub, and I'm having issues with this projector and the nVidia SHIELD TV Pro (2019 vrs). I'm not getting a proper 4K/HDR image, the video stutters (jumping/skipping frames). 
My previous projector, the BenQ HT3550 worked fine with the SHIELD. 
I've been told this problem is because the SHIELD outputs HDR at 4K @60Hz (YUV 4:2:0 10-bit), while the Epson supports HDR at 4:2:2 and does not support HDR at YUV 4:2:0. 
I find it hard to believe that such a mainstream media player as the SHIELD TV is incompatible with a mainstream projector as the Epson 5040ub, and I hope there must be a way to make it work properly. 
Does anyone can help me with that?
Thanks everyone! 🤗


----------



## EEE272

luisalbertokid said:


> I've been told this problem is because the SHIELD outputs HDR at 4K @60Hz (YUV 4:2:0 10-bit), while the Epson supports HDR at 4:2:2 and does not support HDR at YUV 4:2:0.


The skipping is related to the framerate. Movies are at 24 fps. Seeing it to 60 means that you have half the frames repeated three times. Set the framerate to 24 Hz (Device settings, display modes...) and it should be solved.


----------



## EEE272

Daverey06 said:


> Can someone give me good settings for an UHD disc like The Batman?... the blacks look gray to me...


This is actually intended in this movie. They placed some fat or something on the lense that scatters light into all black parts. Therefore the shadows appear colored - sometimes a bit orange, sometimes blue 
The creator gave a presentation on YouTube about achieving this "dirty" or "analog" look...
Personally, I am not a fan...


----------



## luisalbertokid

EEE272 said:


> The skipping is related to the framerate. Movies are at 24 fps. Seeing it to 60 means that you have half the frames repeated three times. Set the framerate to 24 Hz (Device settings, display modes...) and it should be solved.


Hi, thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately it's not that simple, it's a color space problem. I used the Shield in its default 59.94Hz on the BenQ HT3550 with no problem.


----------



## inspector

Daverey06 said:


> Sorry again for my confusion, but are you then suggesting to set Gamma to 2 or to customize it to these numbers?
> 
> GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0
> 
> Is there a reason you listed both? Just want to be sure I put this in correctly. Thanks.


Somone suggested for BD/SD to use GAMMA 2. I tried it for UHD too and it works fine.


----------



## deano86

luisalbertokid said:


> Hi, thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately it's not that simple, it's a color space problem. I used the Shield in its default 59.94Hz on the BenQ HT3550 with no problem.


Color space has nothing to do with the frame rate that your Shield is feeding your projector. 4K and blu ray movies are 24hz...The default should not be 59.94Hz. the fact that you are sending a 60Hz signal to your projector with those files is incorrect. And the Epson does not have 18mb/s HDMI ports..it can only properly process 4K/24hz HDR signals... not 60hz. Maybe, you could get away with sending that incorrect frame rate to the BenQ, because it has higher spec'd speed HDMI ports.


----------



## raymondtrudeau

Does anyone know where I can buy the bulb ELPLP89? From


----------



## luisalbertokid

deano86 said:


> Color space has nothing to do with the frame rate that your Shield is feeding your projector. 4K and blu ray movies are 24hz...The default should not be 59.94Hz. the fact that you are sending a 60Hz signal to your projector with those files is incorrect. And the Epson does not have 18mb/s HDMI ports..it can only properly process 4K/24hz HDR signals... not 60hz. Maybe, you could get away with sending that incorrect frame rate to the BenQ, because it has higher spec'd speed HDMI ports.


You're correct that the 5040ub only accept 4K/HDR at 24Hz, but the biggest issue here is the bandwidth HDMI chipset limitation (10Gbps), which solely accepts 8bit whereas the nVidia SHIELD needs 10/12bit. The HDFury Linker would certainly correct that, downgrading color space/bit depth.


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> These are the settings I've been using for a couple years and am very happy with.
> 
> The setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.
> 
> When you do your Panny 420/820, if you have one, do the same. PLAYER SETTINGS; HDMI, ADVANCED SETTINGS, VIDEO, AUDIO, 3D and HD OPTIMZER on remote.
> 
> UHD NATURAL
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 60
> 58
> 50
> 59
> 5 5 5
> 65K
> 4
> 49,49,50,50,49,43
> PRESET 4
> 6 6
> 40 30
> GAMMA 2
> RGB
> 51 51 61
> 57,58,50
> 55,55,50
> 58,75,50
> 54,71,62
> 54,60,50
> ON
> 0
> MEDIUM
> HIGH
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO BRIGHT
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD NATURAL
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 51
> 49
> 50
> 59
> 5 5 5
> 6K
> 4
> 49,49,50,50,44,43
> PRESET 3
> 5 5
> 5 5
> GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0
> same as UHD (try 2 like for UHD)
> 0
> -6
> MEDIUM
> NORMAL
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD B&W (B&W CINEMA) I like my films to look black and white
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 50
> 42
> 37
> 43
> 0 0 0
> 6 5
> 50 for all
> PRESET 1
> 0 0
> 0 0
> GAMMA 1
> OFF
> 0
> MEDIUM
> NORMAL
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO
> AUTO
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 51
> 49
> 50
> 60
> 5 5 5
> 5 5
> 46,48,46,48,59,49
> NORMAL
> PRESET 3
> 4
> 1
> 5 5
> 5 5
> GAMMA 1
> 50,58,48
> 57,51,46
> 61,50,44
> 46,50,41
> 52,49,66
> 52,23,69
> OFF
> -12
> HIGH
> OFF
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> 3D SETUP
> 
> AUTO
> 0
> THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
> MEDIUM
> ON
> 
> AUTO
> FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast running, using FAST clears it up)
> 
> PANNY 420
> 
> SETUP PLAYER SETTINGS
> 
> _HDMI_
> 
> 4K
> 4K(60p)(4:4:4)
> AUTO
> AUTO
> AUTO ONLY
> ON
> 
> _ADVANCED_
> 
> YcbCr (AUTO)
> AUTO(12 bit Priority)
> HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
> ON
> OFF
> BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
> OFF
> AUTO
> AUTO
> ON
> AUTO
> 
> _VIDEO_
> 
> AUTO
> ON
> 
> _AUDIO_
> 
> OFF
> ---
> UP TO 96 kHz
> SURROUND ENCODED
> NORMAL
> ---
> O
> OFF
> 
> _3D_
> 
> AUTO
> ORIGINAL
> OFF
> 
> REMOTE
> 
> _HD OPTIMIZER_
> 
> STANDARD
> +8
> 0
> +4
> -4


Just curious, but it seems like a lot of people with either an Epson 6040 or 5040 UB paired with a Panasonic DP UB820 or UB420 think that the best settings for the player is to put it into SDR BT2020 due to the limited light output of the projector since they say it can’t do HDR well. Is there a reason your settings still use HDR BT2020? I had mine in SDR BT2020 for a while but decided to change it recently to compare, and even on my 177 inch screen I felt like the colors still appeared more intense when using HDR BT2020. Am I crazy? So many say that SDR BT2020 looks better. Since you are not using the SDR BT2020 I am guessing you think HDR looks better even on a projector like the Epson with low nits. I’d be interested to hear your thoughts and why you choose HDR BT2020 over SDR BT2020.


----------



## inspector

No reason. Those were the setting that I've found and thought it looked good.

I'm always trying new setting and yours _I'm going to try on the next UHD disc. I can't wait to see how much difference there will be. 

I'll post here in awhile._


----------



## deano86

luisalbertokid said:


> You're correct that the 5040ub only accept 4K/HDR at 24Hz, but the biggest issue here is the bandwidth HDMI chipset limitation (10Gbps), which solely accepts 8bit whereas the nVidia SHIELD needs 10/12bit. The HDFury Linker would certainly correct that, downgrading color space/bit depth.


Hey, do whatever you gotta do.. .but sending movies out of your source player at 60Hz doesn't make any sense. That part needs to be fixed.


----------



## inspector

In Color Space went to BT 2020. In Dynamic Range went to SDR. The color went from pale to a slight pink flesh tone. Is that what you experienced?


----------



## inspector

The above will be my new settings.


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> In Color Space went to BT 2020. In Dynamic Range went to SDR. The color went from pale to a slight pink flesh tone. Is that what you experienced?


Honestly I didn’t notice that, but I’m not really enough of a videophile to notice all the slight differences. The only thing I could really tell was that I thought the lights in the scene I was testing seemed brighter and more vibrant in HDR.


----------



## inspector

Well, that’s the fun of tinkering…some one always comes with something new to try, like yours!

I’ll have to work on the skin color.


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> Well, that’s the fun of tinkering…some one always comes with something new to try, like yours!
> 
> I’ll have to work on the skin color.


Do you happen to know what the max nits the Epson 6040 and 5040 UBS are capable of? I can only see max lumens, but I’m not sure how to translate that to max nits.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Hello all, greetings from Brazil! 🇧🇷 🇧🇷 🇧🇷
has anyone had problems with dust blobs on their Epsons 5040/5050? I have a white spot on my 5040 (looks like a light spill on the lens, visible only in dark scenes), and Epson people told me that nothing can be done about it, because only the engineers in Japan have the tools and the knowledge to dismantle the projector and clean it internally. I have a hard time believing that such a mundane problem doesn't have a fix (a dust blob in such an expensive and sophisticated machine has no fix??? 🤔).
Does anyone know something about that? Any help would be most welcome! 😃
Thanks a lot!


----------



## Boggle

luisalbertokid said:


> Hello all, greetings from Brazil! 🇧🇷 🇧🇷 🇧🇷
> has anyone had problems with dust blobs on their Epsons 5040/5050? I have a white spot on my 5040 (looks like a light spill on the lens, visible only in dark scenes), and Epson people told me that nothing can be done about it, because only the engineers in Japan have the tools and the knowledge to dismantle the projector and clean it internally. I have a hard time believing that such a mundane problem doesn't have a fix (a dust blob in such an expensive and sophisticated machine has no fix??? 🤔).
> Does anyone know something about that? Any help would be most welcome! 😃
> Thanks a lot!


if its just one spot, and you are sure its not on outside lens, you can disassemble and use a compressed air can to knock it off. its a 10 minute job to disassemble, check the 5010 filter thread for a how-to on taking it apart. you may have to remove motherboard depending on which panel has the spot. if you need to do that the job is riskier/a bit tougher.

a white spot means its not on a specific led panel, but im not the authority on that, a pic may help.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Boggle said:


> if its just one spot, and you are sure its not on outside lens, you can disassemble and use a compressed air can to knock it off. its a 10 minute job to disassemble, check the 5010 filter thread for a how-to on taking it apart. you may have to remove motherboard depending on which panel has the spot. if you need to do that the job is riskier/a bit tougher.
> 
> a white spot means its not on a specific led panel, but im not the authority on that, a pic may help.


Hi, thanks for the feedback 🤗
Here's a pic:










In the photo it's actually quite different than what you see in the eye, where it kind of looks like a small lens flare or light spill on the lens. But this is what the camera captures.


----------



## Flynnr

Inspector - at the bottom of your settings is the settings for the 420...I got lost when it says this:

REMOTE

_HD OPTIMIZER_

STANDARD
+8
0
+4
-4 


I cant seem to figure out where to change those settings in the 420. Any suggestions?


----------



## Daverey06

Flynnr said:


> Inspector - at the bottom of your settings is the settings for the 420...I got lost when it says this:
> 
> REMOTE
> 
> _HD OPTIMIZER_
> 
> STANDARD
> +8
> 0
> +4
> -4
> 
> 
> I cant seem to figure out where to change those settings in the 420. Any suggestions?


Press the HDR Setting button and hold it in. Then navigate the menu and you will find all those settings under the HDR options.


----------



## Flynnr

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Daverey06

luisalbertokid said:


> Where you can get good calibration settings to the 5040:
> 
> Sound&Vision original review (google it);
> ProjectorReviews review (be sure to get the updated calibration, the screen shots from the projector's menu);
> and here: Whose HDR and SDR calibration settings are you using on...
> I use all those and they are quite good. I also upgraded to the latest firmware (bought mine used and it had the original version) and the image really improved, HDR is much brighter and colourful. This is really an amazing projector!


I’m confused by the settings listed in this review. Is this the original review you are referring to? Are these settings at this link for HDR or SDR? I can’t see anywhere that specifies. Epson Pro Cinema 6040UB 3D LCD Projector Review Settings


----------



## Goalaso

Can anyone comment on the supposedly higher than spec light output from the 5040, which actually would make it significantly brighter than the 5050 or LS11000/12000. I understand that brightness isn't the end all, but this is my current concern. In Eco dynamic mode, projector Central rates output at 2645 (!). Will this vary unit to unit? Or can people confirm this is consistently noticeable compared to PJs like the 5050 that on paper should match the 5040 brightness?

See table near end of review:









Review: Epson Home Cinema 5040UB


The Epson 5040UB wins Editor's Choice Award on ProjectorCentral



www.projectorcentral.com


----------



## Daverey06

luisalbertokid said:


> I have 3 different calibrations for HDR: cinema (which I got from Sound&Vision), digital cinema and bright cinema (those are from ProjectorReviews - the upgraded settings, not the old ones). I change calibration based on content. Cinema was great for Batman, with very deep blacks and good colors.


When you say the digital cinema and bright cinema settings from ProjectorReviews, are you getting that info from the screeshots like this one? Also it doesn't look like all these color mode memories they have saved are in those photos unless I am looking for the settings in the wrong place. Which of these setting are using when you say you use their bright cinema and digital cinema settings? It's a little confusing as it looks like they have multiple settings using the same color modes.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> When you say the digital cinema and bright cinema settings from ProjectorReviews, are you getting that info from the screeshots like this one? Also it doesn't look like all these color mode memories they have saved are in those photos unless I am looking for the settings in the wrong place. Which of these setting are using when you say you use their bright cinema and digital cinema settings? It's a little confusing as it looks like they have multiple settings using the same color modes.
> 
> View attachment 3289155


There are 3 *updated* HDR calibrations on ProjectorReviews: Digital Cinema, Bright Cinema and Natural. Those calibration settings are the screenshoots of the projector's menu (the one you posted). I use them (mostly DCin) with some slight twists of my own.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> I’m confused by the settings listed in this review. Is this the original review you are referring to? Are these settings at this link for HDR or SDR? I can’t see anywhere that specifies. Epson Pro Cinema 6040UB 3D LCD Projector Review Settings


These settings work great for SDR with Brightness in 50. I also use then for HDR but only in films like The Batman which are extremely dark, but with a few tweaks in contrast and color saturation (crank them up to 57/58, depending on your personal taste). Also adjust image enhancements settings to your own taste (I use Preset 4 for everything).


----------



## Daverey06

luisalbertokid said:


> These settings work great for SDR with Brightness in 50. I also use then for HDR but only in films like The Batman which are extremely dark, but with a few tweaks in contrast and color saturation (crank them up to 57/58, depending on your personal taste). Also adjust image enhancements settings to your own taste (I use Preset 4 for everything).


So you use these HDR settings for SDR as well? Also what gamma did you have for the ISF BRITE ROOM setting from projector reviews? The number isn’t on the screenshot since it’s a customized gamma. Thanks!


----------



## Daverey06

luisalbertokid said:


> These settings work great for SDR with Brightness in 50. I also use then for HDR but only in films like The Batman which are extremely dark, but with a few tweaks in contrast and color saturation (crank them up to 57/58, depending on your personal taste). Also adjust image enhancements settings to your own taste (I use Preset 4 for everything).


I was trying the different presets and it seems like 5 gives the most picture detail. Why doesn’t everyone just use that one? Is there a downside to using these presets?


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> So you use these HDR settings for SDR as well? Also what gamma did you have for the ISF BRITE ROOM setting from projector reviews? The number isn’t on the screenshot since it’s a customized gamma. Thanks!


I use the default 0 setting but you can experiment with gamma 1 (darker) or -1 (lighter) to see what works best for you.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> I was trying the different presets and it seems like 5 gives the most picture detail. Why doesn’t everyone just use that one? Is there a downside to using these presets?


In Preset 5 the edge enhancement is too visible for me. Preset 4 works fine bringing out detail and also slightly improving contrast.


----------



## deano86

luisalbertokid said:


> I use the default 0 setting but you can experiment with gamma 1 (darker) or -1 (lighter) to see what works best for you.


I think you have that backwards... setting it higher will make dark areas lighter or come out of black sooner.. setting it lower or negative will make it darker or come out of black later..


----------



## luisalbertokid

deano86 said:


> I think you have that backwards... setting it higher will make dark areas lighter or come out of black sooner.. setting it lower or negative will make it darker or come out of black later..


Yeah maybe, I always think that because 2.4 is darker than 2.2, so I thought the higher the gamma level the darker the image (and with greater contrast)... 🤓


----------



## Brian Atlanta

Looking from some help from everyone I bought a used 5040UB got a good price and no issues with it. I had a question about the firmware currently it says Main 770076648UWWV110 which I assume it version 110. Video2 says 68L28RMV104. 

I don't think many who owned these unless its someone here ever update the firmware but I want to. Correct me if I am wrong is the latest version V114 and if I am jumping from 110 can I go directly to 114? Other question is should I not sure what they fixed or improved so any input would be welcome and appreciated. I assume and I have plenty of sticks that I delete everything on the stick then download from epson the newest version. I have the directions to actually do the update so good there.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Brian Atlanta said:


> Looking from some help from everyone I bought a used 5040UB got a good price and no issues with it. I had a question about the firmware currently it says Main 770076648UWWV110 which I assume it version 110. Video2 says 68L28RMV104.
> 
> I don't think many who owned these unless its someone here ever update the firmware but I want to. Correct me if I am wrong is the latest version V114 and if I am jumping from 110 can I go directly to 114? Other question is should I not sure what they fixed or improved so any input would be welcome and appreciated. I assume and I have plenty of sticks that I delete everything on the stick then download from epson the newest version. I have the directions to actually do the update so good there.


You should DEFINITELY upgrade to 114, there’s a huge improvement in HDR picture quality. I upgraded from 109 to 114 and it was totally fine.


----------



## Daverey06

Does anyone know if the 5040 has an HDR Slider? If so where is it?


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> Does anyone know if the 5040 has an HDR Slider? If so where is it?


It does not.


----------



## Brian Atlanta

luisalbertokid said:


> You should DEFINITELY upgrade to 114, there’s a huge improvement in HDR picture quality. I upgraded from 109 to 114 and it was totally fine.


Thanks for the reply will do.


----------



## b_scott

what is everyone's favorite set of glasses for 3D on the 5040?


----------



## Web35

Can anyone comment on the *upscaling* of the NIVIDIA PRO 2019 vs the ROKU Ultra 2020 for the 5040UB? I currently have the ROKU Ultra 2020 and like its upscaling better than the 5040UB upscaling. B-day and Father’s Day coming up so a new streaming device might fill the bill nicely!


----------



## Daverey06

Can someone else who has a Panasonic 4K bluray player paired with their Epson 5040UB confirm for me if I should set my Panasonic color mode to 4:2:2 or 4:4:4? Can the 5040 only do up to 4:2:2?


----------



## Daverey06

Another question I have is does Bright Cinema have the same kind of color filter as Cinema and Digital Cinema? If so does that make these three the best options for getting HDR content to look it's best?


----------



## deano86

Daverey06 said:


> Another question I have is does Bright Cinema have the same kind of color filter as Cinema and Digital Cinema? If so does that make these three the best options for getting HDR content to look it's best?


No, it does not.. and it really should be easy to tell, because when you select Digital Cinema, you hear the filter motor engage .... and likewise when you switch back to Natural or Bright Cinema, you hear it disengage.


----------



## Daverey06

OrcusVaruna said:


> Tone mapping to standard dynamic range prior to outputting the signal would completely alter what settings you would use as the projector would never know it’s getting what was an HDR image. I personally don’t think there is much reason to have the player tone map to sdr as the settings we have now do this very well. I would output all hdr signals mapped to 1000nits and let the projector do its thing. I would then use the extensive optimizer settings in the player to tweak the resultant image to my liking. I will also let you know my thoughts when I have more then an afternoon with the player.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So just so I am understanding what you are saying, it is your opinion that with a Panasonic DP-UB420 and an Epson HC5040UB that it is not best to put it into SDR BT2020 mode due to the limited brightness of the projector? I am new to all of this and a little confused as I know there are others like Kris Deering for example who say SDR BT2020 is best for most projectors. I appreciate any clarification you can provide. Thanks!


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> Can someone else who has a Panasonic 4K bluray player paired with their Epson 5040UB confirm for me if I should set my Panasonic color mode to 4:2:2 or 4:4:4? Can the 5040 only do up to 4:2:2?


Based on my tests with the SHIELD and a Minix Neo T5 running CoreELEC you can throw HDR/REC2020/4:4:4 as long as it is limited to 8 bits (CoreELEC has this option, the SHIELD does not and send 10 bits which the 5040 can not play).


----------



## luisalbertokid

deano86 said:


> No, it does not.. and it really should be easy to tell, because when you select Digital Cinema, you hear the filter motor engage .... and likewise when you switch back to Natural or Bright Cinema, you hear it disengage.


As a matter of fact all three Cinema picture modes use the Epson cinema filter for DCI-P3 wider colour gamut, I checked that out with Epson (but only Digital Cinema has full DCI-P3 coverage).


----------



## deano86

luisalbertokid said:


> As a matter of fact all three Cinema picture modes use the Epson cinema filter for DCI-P3 wider colour gamut, I checked that out with Epson (but only Digital Cinema has full DCI-P3 coverage).


Uh.. no. At least not with my projector here in the U.S. Not sure who you talked with at Epson, but the only preset modes that use the Cinema Filter are Cinema and Digital Cinema.. Bright Cinema disengages the filter. That is why it is so incredibly brighter...in which many people selected and made the trade-off with HDR content. They gave up the wider color gamut and the little bit of extra color performance, for a punchier and more pleasing HDR picture. When comparing straight up color performance, many did not see enough of a benefit when using Digital Cinema mode because of the perceived dull, lifeless picture when using it for HDR content.


----------



## luisalbertokid

deano86 said:


> Uh.. no. At least not with my projector here in the U.S. Not sure who you talked with at Epson, but the only preset modes that use the Cinema Filter are Cinema and Digital Cinema.. Bright Cinema disengages the filter. That is why it is so incredibly brighter...in which many people selected and made the trade-off with HDR content. They gave up the wider color gamut and the little bit of extra color performance, for a punchier and more pleasing HDR picture. When comparing straight up color performance, many did not see enough of a benefit when using Digital Cinema mode because of the perceived dull, lifeless picture when using it for HDR content.


Maybe the Epson rep doesn’t know his own projector… Anyways I enjoy Digital Cinema a lot, vibrant colors, good contrast and black levels. I kind of think Bright Cinema is too… well, bright. But to which it’s own, at first I also prefered Bright but now Digital seems more refined to me.


----------



## Daverey06

luisalbertokid said:


> Maybe the Epson rep doesn’t know his own projector… Anyways I enjoy Digital Cinema a lot, vibrant colors, good contrast and black levels. I kind of think Bright Cinema is too… well, bright. But to which it’s own, at first I also prefered Bright but now Digital seems more refined to me.


I never liked Digital Cinema before, but I tried out the Digital Cinema from Projector Reviews that they had in those screen shots and it looked pretty fantastic when I tested it on the new Obi-Wan show.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> I never liked Digital Cinema before, but I tried out the Digital Cinema from Projector Reviews that they had in those screen shots and it looked pretty fantastic when I tested it on the new Obi-Wan show.


Same here, looks very good. I changed however contrast and saturation levels and enhancement controls to my personal taste. Also closed the iris to -2 (I think…) and blacks are really good 👍🏻


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> These are the settings I've been using for a couple years and am very happy with.
> 
> The setting for UHD, BD/SD, B&W and 3D. Just start on IMAGE, go down, then onto SIGNAL. On 3D, go to 3D SETUP. NATURAL settings for UHD and BD/SD are almost the same.
> 
> When you do your Panny 420/820, if you have one, do the same. PLAYER SETTINGS; HDMI, ADVANCED SETTINGS, VIDEO, AUDIO, 3D and HD OPTIMZER on remote.
> 
> UHD NATURAL
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 60
> 58
> 50
> 59
> 5 5 5
> 65K
> 4
> 49,49,50,50,49,43
> PRESET 4
> 6 6
> 40 30
> GAMMA 2
> RGB
> 51 51 61
> 57,58,50
> 55,55,50
> 58,75,50
> 54,71,62
> 54,60,50
> ON
> 0
> MEDIUM
> HIGH
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO BRIGHT
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD NATURAL
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 51
> 49
> 50
> 59
> 5 5 5
> 6K
> 4
> 49,49,50,50,44,43
> PRESET 3
> 5 5
> 5 5
> GAMMA 0, -8, -13, -15, -17, -17, -17, -20, 0
> same as UHD (try 2 like for UHD)
> 0
> -6
> MEDIUM
> NORMAL
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD B&W (B&W CINEMA) I like my films to look black and white
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 50
> 42
> 37
> 43
> 0 0 0
> 6 5
> 50 for all
> PRESET 1
> 0 0
> 0 0
> GAMMA 1
> OFF
> 0
> MEDIUM
> NORMAL
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> AUTO
> AUTO
> AUTO
> FINE
> 
> BD/SD 3D DYNAMIC
> 
> _IMAGE_
> 
> 51
> 49
> 50
> 60
> 5 5 5
> 5 5
> 46,48,46,48,59,49
> NORMAL
> PRESET 3
> 4
> 1
> 5 5
> 5 5
> GAMMA 1
> 50,58,48
> 57,51,46
> 61,50,44
> 46,50,41
> 52,49,66
> 52,23,69
> OFF
> -12
> HIGH
> OFF
> 
> _SIGNAL_
> 
> 3D SETUP
> 
> AUTO
> 0
> THE SIZE OF YOUR SCREEN
> MEDIUM
> ON
> 
> AUTO
> FAST (I use this because on some 3Ders, if there is real fast running, using FAST clears it up)
> 
> PANNY 420
> 
> SETUP PLAYER SETTINGS
> 
> _HDMI_
> 
> 4K
> 4K(60p)(4:4:4)
> AUTO
> AUTO
> AUTO ONLY
> ON
> 
> _ADVANCED_
> 
> YcbCr (AUTO)
> AUTO(12 bit Priority)
> HDR/bt.2020 (AUTO)
> ON
> OFF
> BASIC LUMINANCE LCD PJ
> OFF
> AUTO
> AUTO
> ON
> AUTO
> 
> _VIDEO_
> 
> AUTO
> ON
> 
> _AUDIO_
> 
> OFF
> ---
> UP TO 96 kHz
> SURROUND ENCODED
> NORMAL
> ---
> O
> OFF
> 
> _3D_
> 
> AUTO
> ORIGINAL
> OFF
> 
> REMOTE
> 
> _HD OPTIMIZER_
> 
> STANDARD
> +8
> 0
> +4
> -4


What RGB settings do you do for your BD/SD mode? I don’t see anything in that section for those. Do you just leave them at the neutral 50 position?


----------



## Daverey06

Can someone recommend their preferred settings to go with a SDR BT2020 signal from a Panasonic DP-UB420 or 820 4K Blu-ray player?

I know a gamma of -2 is necessary to get close to 2.4 gamma, but any other settings anyone can recommend to better imitate HDR on the Epson? Thanks!


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> What RGB settings do you do for your BD/SD mode? I don’t see anything in that section for those. Do you just leave them at the neutral 50 position?


In Cinema mode I use Sound&Vision settings, works really well. In Natural mode, which I actually never use, it’s all set to the default 50.


----------



## dropthatphone

jbnpaul said:


> This is exactly what I use. tone map using MadVR to SDR. But then again the projector is not getting HDR. It is only getting SDR.
> 
> I expect this to perform better than NX7 HDR. But I would also expect NX7 to be better than 5040 when it is used with madVR.
> 
> Here are my thoughts on HDR using 5040.
> There are three specific improvements one can get with 4K HDR.
> 1. Better color (BT2020)
> 2. Dynamic range (difference in lowest and brightest spots on the screen)
> 3. More pixels
> 
> My understanding the projector (bulb) produces the same amount of nits irrespective off the input (SDR or HDR). Assuming the projector can produce 100 nits max what are your options when a 400 nit HDR image is input to it?
> Since the projector can not produce more than 100 nits, it uses some algorithm to approximate the output. In my case most of the HDR images end up looking simply far too dark. May be the image preserves the dynamic range ... but it is too dark. And I don't like dark, and I want bright.
> 
> After chasing HDR for a while ... I realized in almost all content I have tried ... the SDR image looks stunning/jaw dropping. But the HDR ends up being far too dark. So simply telling my Apple TV not to use HDR solved all my problems.
> 
> Here is my conclusion ... The real problem here is 5040 can not produce the brightness required for HDR. And this is also the case with NX7. But what NX-7 does is tone mapping ( dynamic - based on the current frame ).
> 
> Consider an HDR movie which has a range of around 400 nits. Now consider an HDR scene which is dark but has 200 nits highlights in a small area ... but most of the frame where all the action happens is say less than 40 nits. Now what happens when 5040 attempts to display it? The highlight will be 50 nits. But the rest of the scene( where the actions happens) gets only 10 nits. So you end up watching a really dark movie.
> 
> NX-7 which can do dynamic tone mapping ... can simply adjust the tone mapping on frame by frame basis... So it can simply brighten the above frame ... by rendering the bright highlight using 100 nits but then 20 nits for the dark area. Now the action is bright by a factor of two.
> 
> Now this is what madVR does as well, and what madVR does is leaps and bounds better than NX-7 does. But the big difference is ... it tone maps to SDR. But maintains 4K pixels and BT2020 color space. So you get 2 out of 3 benefits of HDR. The 3rd one which is the dynamic range, we have no way to actually produce it due to hardware limitations of 5040.
> 
> But MadVR does its magic and provides an enormous number of configuration options so that you can control the tone mapping. I like my movies bright. So I configure it so that I can see what happens in the dark area. I have no real data ... but with MadVR the highlight will be 100 nits ... but the dark area might still average around 35 (May be even more than 40 with some configuration updates). In short you end up seeing the action in the dark area as expected but lose some of the dynamic range(the highlight is less bright) in the process.
> 
> My understanding is a number of HDR settings that people have, tries to do this exact same thing by playing around with gamma etc. But I don't think it is possible to do anything that is even remotely closer to what can be achieved with MadVR.
> You can optimize the projector for one scene or one movie ... but then a different movie/scene that would look worse.
> 
> Jaws drop every time I demo my 5040. Couple of my friends bought 5050 after they had a demo at my home. I was happy with the HDR until I watched the same content with only SDR. I couldn't make sense how SDR can look better than HDR when I am using the same disc. I always thought even though 5040(Or most projectors) can not do 100% HDR, there would at least be some improvement. At least in my experience this is simply not the case.
> 
> without madVR you lose BT2020 color space. So vs a regular Blu-ray, 4K will look better due to higher resolution and better colors. But at the same time, will also look darker and this was frustrating. MadVR fixes all these. you get the pixels and BT2020. And it also does tone mapping so that each frame can be rendered optimally


Great info! Can you please provide links, or model #s for the MadVR that you use in your system? Thanks!


----------



## Daverey06

luisalbertokid said:


> In Cinema mode I use Sound&Vision settings, works really well. In Natural mode, which I actually never use, it’s all set to the default 50.


What do you use to watch SDR material? I find Cinema is too dim.


----------



## deano86

Daverey06 said:


> What do you use to watch SDR material? I find Cinema is too dim.


By far the best preset to use out of box for SDR material as far as correct color temp and brightness is Natural.. Of course YOU will have to adjust to your room/screen size/ screen gain/etc... and your own preferences using whatever preset you want to start with.. Getting everyone elses screen settings is nice to get an idea of where to start, but others settings are not going to be perfectly correct for you. Purchase a Spears and Munsil calibration disc to really see what what your projector is doing...and go from there...


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> What do you use to watch SDR material? I find Cinema is too dim.


That's really a matter of personal taste. SDR looks very good in Natural, using basically Epson settings and Color Temperature at 7000K and gamma at -1 (read that in reviews, tried it and it really looks nice). But I honestly prefer Cinema, using Sound&Vision settings with some tweaks of my own. I know it isn't technically accurate because of the DCI-P3 color filter but I enjoy the extra punch in color saturation and black levels.


----------



## Daverey06

Don’t you also need to purchase other calibration equipment to use a Spears and Munsil Calibration disc?


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> Don’t you also need to purchase other calibration equipment to use a Spears and Munsil Calibration disc?


Actually the only equipment you need is your eyes (and a spinner to play the disc, of course 😁).


----------



## Daverey06

luisalbertokid said:


> Actually the only equipment you need is your eyes (and a spinner to play the disc, of course 😁).


You’ve used one I take it then? On the info about it on Amazon it says you need other equipment to use with it. 

It says “Although some of this disc can be used by consumers, much of this disc comprises professional patterns which cannot be used without instrumentation.”


----------



## deano86

Daverey06 said:


> You’ve used one I take it then? On the info about it on Amazon it says you need other equipment to use with it.
> 
> It says “Although some of this disc can be used by consumers, much of this disc comprises professional patterns which cannot be used without instrumentation.”


Yes, the Spears and Munsil disc (I have this one, BTW.) Amazon.com: Spears & Munsil HD Benchmark and Calibration Disc 2nd Edition : Stacey Spears, Don Munsil: Movies & TV

is very thorough and contains a tremendous amount of test patterns that can be logically combined with a light meter and a color calibration software running on your laptop. There also is the newest 4K disc, but with this projector I think that this 1080p disc is plenty good to start out with. But, it also contains basic instruction and patterns with an included color filter that can at least get you the majority of the way there to a proper initial setup of the extremely important settings of contrast, brightness, saturation and hue.. not to mention sharpness patterns which really shows what the different levels of the image enhancement that are available on this projector are actually doing to your picture. Light meter/software or not, everyone should have a calibration disc... especially this one.


----------



## b_scott

Does anyone have a printout of their 3D settings for the 5040? I'm using 3D Cinema, and it's very dark. I know 3D is darker, but I'm hoping on my spandex screen I can get some combination of brightness/contrast/gamma output that will make it pleasant.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Hello;
which would be the best screen material for the 5040 in a totally darkened room? I have a 120" 1.1 screen at 3.7 meters from the screen.
I wonder if a 0.8 screen would deliver deeper blacks and how much it could have an effect in brightness/contrast/"image pop". The reason I'm asking this is because here in Brazil we simply don't have how/where to test screens, the only option is buying blindly on the internet... 🙁
Thanks!


----------



## Brian Atlanta

I finally got my 5040 firmware upgraded to 1.14 today I bought this used a month ago low hours person used it for watching 3d movies a few times a week and I beleive them it was set for 3d. Love it came from an 8350 night and day big time, not using HDR only SDR very happy using Natural watched a movie last night happy as well as sports on that setting.

So sure most have updated a long time ago but if anyone who bought one used and needs to upgrade the firmware here is my experience, I was on 1.10 set google to download files to my choice of the destination to make sure the Epson file was downloaded without any changes. I had an old 2GB stick like 13 years old which I downloaded to. Quick format as I had files on it tried to update the firmware cord unplugged then plugging in while holding the power button it would stay lit for about 7 seconds then shut off, tried it twice would not work. 

So then my wife had an old stick probably 10 years old 8GB plugged it into my computer windows said it needed to be fixed for errors which it did now thinking this will never work, quick format download the file. Today figured I would give it a shot unplug hold power button plug in power hold my breath projector turns on all lights lit release the power button and after 7 seconds still on so farther than I got before I was patient it was probably 2 minutes till the lights started blinking, guessing it probably took another 4 or 5 minutes before the projector shut off walked away might have been longer. It shut down when I came back powered it up checked the version info and yes 1.14 for main. So if anyone has a problem it could be the stick think that was mentioned much earlier in the thread which of couse is over a 1000 pages.


----------



## sleepingatsea

Just came here to say that the latest Shield update now let's you turn off HDR and tonemaps to SDR. 
I'm watching Stranger Things at 4K BT709 SDR with Atmos and it looks fantastic on my 'Natural' mode I use for Bluray.
Inky blacks, bright highlights and good colours. Easy!

Sent from my SM-F711B using Tapatalk


----------



## luisalbertokid

sleepingatsea said:


> Just came here to say that the latest Shield update now let's you turn off HDR and tonemaps to SDR.
> I'm watching Stranger Things at 4K BT709 SDR with Atmos and it looks fantastic on my 'Natural' mode I use for Bluray.
> Inky blacks, bright highlights and good colours. Easy!
> 
> Sent from my SM-F711B using Tapatalk


Is the Shield really tone mapping HDR>SDR or your Netflix is simply displaying SDR because you turned HDR off? It happened to me once, I accidentally forced HDCP 1.4 on the Shield and thought “what a beautiful HDR>SDR conversion” when Netflix was simply displaying SDR… 😬


----------



## sleepingatsea

luisalbertokid said:


> Is the Shield really tone mapping HDR>SDR or your Netflix is simply displaying SDR because you turned HDR off? It happened to me once, I accidentally forced HDCP 1.4 on the Shield and thought “what a beautiful HDR>SDR conversion” when Netflix was simply displaying SDR…


Good question! I assumed so but may not be. As it works for all services Netflix, Disney, Plex etc I would have thought is implemented at an OS level vs app though. Also I hear that if Netflix doesn't detect HDR it won't pass Atmos but I was getting that no problem. 
Either way the picture looks good as SDR. I'll do some more testing on my local media too. 

Sent from my SM-F711B using Tapatalk


----------



## Morphx2

sleepingatsea said:


> Just came here to say that the latest Shield update now let's you turn off HDR and tonemaps to SDR.
> I'm watching Stranger Things at 4K BT709 SDR with Atmos and it looks fantastic on my 'Natural' mode I use for Bluray.
> Inky blacks, bright highlights and good colours. Easy!
> 
> Sent from my SM-F711B using Tapatalk



Hi. Where is the turn off HDR option?


----------



## luisalbertokid

Morphx2 said:


> Hi. Where is the turn off HDR option?


If you mean "turn off HDR" on the Shield I believe it's in the Advanced Display Settings.


----------



## b_scott

sleepingatsea said:


> Just came here to say that the latest Shield update now let's you turn off HDR and tonemaps to SDR.
> I'm watching Stranger Things at 4K BT709 SDR with Atmos and it looks fantastic on my 'Natural' mode I use for Bluray.
> Inky blacks, bright highlights and good colours. Easy!
> 
> Sent from my SM-F711B using Tapatalk


whoa! I have just been defaulting to the 60fps option that screws with apps that force HDR with 4K so would remove 4K. I gotta check this out when I get home.


----------



## b_scott

b_scott said:


> whoa! I have just been defaulting to the 60fps option that screws with apps that force HDR with 4K so would remove 4K. I gotta check this out when I get home.


OK Netflix says 4K Atmos. Disney says HD Atmos. Does Disney ever say 4K? Also the option just says it won't send HDR, but I don't see anywhere about it tone mapping it, unless you are speculating.


----------



## acribb

Does anyone else have an issue with their Epson 5040 going dark for a few seconds here and there when using? It is as if it loses power or signal for a few seconds, then comes back on. Does it on multiple sources from my newish Denon AV receiver x4400h.


----------



## deano86

acribb said:


> Does anyone else have an issue with their Epson 5040 going dark for a few seconds here and there when using? It is as if it loses power or signal for a few seconds, then comes back on. Does it on multiple sources from my newish Denon AV receiver x4400h.


The instances of the image going dark is not a power issue... if it was, you would have other blinking indicators on your Epson. The most likely culprit and easiest to troubleshoot is a temporary loss of incoming HDMI signal into your projector. I would reseat your HDMI connection and/or swap out cable and then see how it does. In other instances it can be caused by wonky things going on with CEC HDMI control on other connected devices to your receiver causing a temporary resync of sorts. I assume you don't ever see a message or other indicator on your black screen in the corner when this happens?


----------



## jesped2

acribb said:


> Does anyone else have an issue with their Epson 5040 going dark for a few seconds here and there when using? It is as if it loses power or signal for a few seconds, then comes back on. Does it on multiple sources from my newish Denon AV receiver x4400h.


It's rare, but it's been occassionally happening to me too for at least a year. Pretty annoying when you are in the middle of a boss fight in Elden ring... XD


----------



## acribb

Yeah honestly I think it’s the projector that is the issue and not the Denon receiver but I’ll run a new HDMI cable from the Denon to the PJ just to be sure. And I’ll also run an HDMI cable directly from the Apple TV to the PJ as well. And maybe use a little Bluetooth speaker for sound.

@deano86 - No I don’t see an input label or anything show up on the screen in the two seconds it goes black. I also thought it was initially a loose HDMI cable on the back of the PJ but it is not. It is plugged in solid but I do think the HDMI in on the back of the PJ is not as tight as it could be. I already turned off all HDMI control settings on all devices connected to the PJ as well as the PJ itself.


----------



## audionewer

can you guys recommed me a 100inch screen for 5040? it has to be manual / motorized screen? And not a fixed screen.


----------



## jesped2

acribb said:


> Yeah honestly I think it’s the projector that is the issue and not the Denon receiver but I’ll run a new HDMI cable from the Denon to the PJ just to be sure. And I’ll also run an HDMI cable directly from the Apple TV to the PJ as well. And maybe use a little Bluetooth speaker for sound.
> 
> @deano86 - No I don’t see an input label or anything show up on the screen in the two seconds it goes black. I also thought it was initially a loose HDMI cable on the back of the PJ but it is not. It is plugged in solid but I do think the HDMI in on the back of the PJ is not as tight as it could be. I already turned off all HDMI control settings on all devices connected to the PJ as well as the PJ itself.


In my case it also never says "No signal" and Windows never loses that display. It's like a long blink, sometimes 2 consecutive ones.


----------



## applegrcoug

My 5040 is turning off like clockwork every 20 minutes. I seem to remember this is the precursor to the PSU dying, but it has been several years. Does that sound right, or is it something else?


----------



## acribb

Update: I made sure all HDMI control settings were off on the Denon X4400h and PJ. I also turned off the remote HDMI out which was hooked up to a 40 ft HDMI cable with nothing connected on the other end. Not sure which of those fixed my issue - I was able to view for about 2 hours tonight with no blanking out. Hope it lasts. If it doesn’t I’ll report back here. Good luck to everyone else.


----------



## acribb

audionewer said:


> can you guys recommed me a 100inch screen for 5040? it has to be manual / motorized screen? And not a fixed screen.


I did one of those painted walls and it turned out pretty nice using some special mixture of paint that one of the threads in this forum recommended.


----------



## Gazzer55

I have had the 5040 for a few years now and love it. I haven't given much thought to my blueray/4k player and have used the Xbox One S for all of my media. After watching some 4k disks recently I've noticed the picture isnt as sharp as I was expecting and some of the darker scenes look washed out. I'm sure some of this is due to the projector and the spandex screen I use however my theater is completed blacked out with a black ceiling and dark carpet which helps my odds. My question is which relatively budget 4k player would you recommend as I understand I wouldnt need the latest and greatest played that supports Dolby Vision as an example as it's not compatible. Should I look out for a deal on the Panasonic UB420 and call it a day or does LG/Sony as an example have some options that would look better than the Xbox? Thanks


----------



## b_scott

Oledurt said:


> Hello again.
> 
> I am still using my Digital Cinema settings for HDR they look great, on all the material I have watched.
> 
> keep an eye out I will be posting my ISF settings for Standard blu ray soon...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I just dialed in your #2 settings


Gazzer55 said:


> I have had the 5040 for a few years now and love it. I haven't given much thought to my blueray/4k player and have used the Xbox One S for all of my media. After watching some 4k disks recently I've noticed the picture isnt as sharp as I was expecting and some of the darker scenes look washed out. I'm sure some of this is due to the projector and the spandex screen I use however my theater is completed blacked out with a black ceiling and dark carpet which helps my odds. My question is which relatively budget 4k player would you recommend as I understand I wouldnt need the latest and greatest played that supports Dolby Vision as an example as it's not compatible. Should I look out for a deal on the Panasonic UB420 and call it a day or does LG/Sony as an example have some options that would look better than the Xbox? Thanks


do you have an HDR picture memory setting to use for the 4K UHD's? because when playing UHD's your projector will run in HDR and your picture may wash out unless you are using the picture settings for HDR, namely BT.2020


----------



## luisalbertokid

I'm new to the 5040, been using it for 3 months now. I'm very pleased with the overall image quality, but sometimes it looks bad out of the blue, like washed out dark scenes and faded colors. I wonder if that could be a bad lamp issue. I bought the projector used with the lamp already in it and I have no idea if it is the original lamp. Any thoughts?


----------



## inspector

You can use my settings that I’ve used from Oledurt and others. I’ve used them for over 2 years now and to me they are the best I have found. I use the Panny 420 for 4K.


----------



## inspector

luisalbertokid said:


> I'm new to the 5040, been using it for 3 months now. I'm very pleased with the overall image quality, but sometimes it looks bad out of the blue, like washed out dark scenes and faded colors. I wonder if that could be a bad lamp issue. I bought the projector used with the lamp already in it and I have no idea if it is the original lamp. Any thoughts?


Look at the info at the end and it’ll tell you how many hours on the lamp. If you don.’t like picture buy a new lamp.


----------



## Gazzer55

b_scott said:


> I just dialed in your #2 settings
> 
> 
> do you have an HDR picture memory setting to use for the 4K UHD's? because when playing UHD's your projector will run in HDR and your picture may wash out unless you are using the picture settings for HDR, namely BT.2020


I have the Harper4k settings saved in my projector which I use for 4k movies. Sometimes I may have to lower the brightness or contrast depending on the movie as scenes that have a lot of white are too bright! I have it set to auto and I believe it goes to BT2020 however will double confirm.


----------



## ba_crane

Would a hdfury vertex 2 do much to improve image quality of the 5040 on content with DV or HDR10+ metadata?


----------



## jjslat

I've owned my 5040UB connected to a Denon AVR-S750H mostly using a Chromecast w/Google TV for about a year. I just went through a big speaker upgrade including adding atmos ceiling speakers. I went ahead and bought an Apple TV 4K and a big reason was to try the Dolby Summit app and Atmos demo's. 

When I try to run one of the videos in the Dolby Summit app I just get a message that says "Your device is not Dolby Vision enabled". Is this just because of the limitations of the 5040UB or is there a workaround or possible issue with my HDMI cord?

I always felt like I was getting ATMOS and Dolby Vision through Disney, Netflix etc. but maybe not?


----------



## luisalbertokid

jjslat said:


> I've owned my 5040UB connected to a Denon AVR-S750H mostly using a Chromecast w/Google TV for about a year. I just went through a big speaker upgrade including adding atmos ceiling speakers. I went ahead and bought an Apple TV 4K and a big reason was to try the Dolby Summit app and Atmos demo's.
> 
> When I try to run one of the videos in the Dolby Summit app I just get a message that says "Your device is not Dolby Vision enabled". Is this just because of the limitations of the 5040UB or is there a workaround or possible issue with my HDMI cord?
> 
> I always felt like I was getting ATMOS and Dolby Vision through Disney, Netflix etc. but maybe not?


No projector support DV.


----------



## Gabre

acribb said:


> Does anyone else have an issue with their Epson 5040 going dark for a few seconds here and there when using? It is as if it loses power or signal for a few seconds, then comes back on. Does it on multiple sources from my newish Denon AV receiver x4400h.


That will be your HDMI cable 1000% 
had exact same issue with my 5020. thought projector was dying. Bought new cable. Issue never came back. 
Actually happened to me on that new cable after 3-4 years, this time on jvc projector. Bought again new cable, again works perfectly. 

Apparently, for some reason, HDMI cables go bad after few years. It's beyond me why, but it's a thing. 
And my cables are not moved or unplugged once they are connected.


----------



## jjslat

luisalbertokid said:


> No projector support DV.


In that case anyone aware of a atmos demo solution for Apple TV 4K?


----------



## Dominic Chan

jjslat said:


> In that case anyone aware of a atmos demo solution for Apple TV 4K?


If you set the Apple TV 4K to HDR and Match Range OFF, it will convert Dolby Vision to HDR10, without changing the audio (Atmos).


----------



## jjslat

When I set the Apple TV to HDR the projector goes black and says no signal. Does that mean it’s likely my hdmi cable? Again with chrome cast I always seemed to be able to do hdr I thought


----------



## deano86

jjslat said:


> When I set the Apple TV to HDR the projector goes black and says no signal. Does that mean it’s likely my hdmi cable? Again with chrome cast I always seemed to be able to do hdr I thought


If Apple TV is sending 4K HDR at 60fps, then that will not work... if indeed sending 24fps, then that should work on HDMI 1.


----------



## jjslat

deano86 said:


> If Apple TV is sending 4K HDR at 60fps, then that will not work... if indeed sending 24fps, then that should work on HDMI 1.


Just to be sure I have the right info what speed cable do I need?


----------



## deano86

jjslat said:


> Just to be sure I have the right info what speed cable do I need?


Technically for what the 5040 can handle (only up to 4K HDR at 24hz with its 10.2 gb/s port), a good "High Speed" rated cable should work fine and is within its spec. But I would probably spring for "Premium Speed" cables just to be safe at this point in the game. 

Monoprice 4K Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable 15ft - 18Gbps Black - Monoprice.com


----------



## jjslat

deano86 said:


> Technically for what the 5040 can handle (only up to 4K HDR at 24hz with its 10.2 gb/s port), a good "High Speed" rated cable should work fine and is within its spec. But I would probably spring for "Premium Speed" cables just to be safe at this point in the game.
> 
> Monoprice 4K Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable 15ft - 18Gbps Black - Monoprice.com


My cable should be more than enough then. The cable from Apple TV to AVR is actually an 8k 12" cable so that's definitely not it. 

Anyone else with the 5040UB and Apple TV 4K combo able to go to Apple settings and turn on HDR mode without the projector losing input signal then eventually have Apple TV revert back to no HDR?


----------



## Dominic Chan

jjslat said:


> My cable should be more than enough then. The cable from Apple TV to AVR is actually an 8k 12" cable so that's definitely not it.
> 
> Anyone else with the 5040UB and Apple TV 4K combo able to go to Apple settings and turn on HDR mode without the projector losing input signal then eventually have Apple TV revert back to no HDR?


As was mentioned by others, for HDR on the 5040UB you have to select 30Hz or 24Hz.


----------



## jjslat

Dominic Chan said:


> As was mentioned by others, for HDR on the 5040UB you have to select 30Hz or 24Hz.


Found that setting and it worked, thanks!


----------



## acribb

Gabre said:


> That will be your HDMI cable 1000%
> had exact same issue with my 5020. thought projector was dying. Bought new cable. Issue never came back.
> Actually happened to me on that new cable after 3-4 years, this time on jvc projector. Bought again new cable, again works perfectly.
> 
> Apparently, for some reason, HDMI cables go bad after few years. It's beyond me why, but it's a thing.
> And my cables are not moved or unplugged once they are connected.


Yep, I moved the Denon receiver forward an inch and that changed the bend on the cable going into the back of the Denon and that has fixed the issue thus far for now. It’s crazy how delicate these are - this one was from Monoprice and it’s about as thick as my pinky finger.


----------



## deano86

acribb said:


> Yep, I moved the Denon receiver forward an inch and that changed the bend on the cable going into the back of the Denon and that has fixed the issue thus far for now. It’s crazy how delicate these are - this one was from Monoprice and it’s about as thick as my pinky finger.


I doubt that the bend in the cable itself was at fault, it's most likely that the thickness of the cable combined with that bend to make the HDMI end connnector to not sit quite perfectly in the Denon's output port. HDMI ports need to be tighter... considering how many tiny little connections need to mate up perfectly to transmit the data.


----------



## dennisnofla19681996

Hello. This issue has probably been discussed ad nauseam here but I'm at my wit's end. I have the Epson 5040UB. I suffer through the infamous auto iris error even though I turned the auto iris function off at the projector's main menu.

I have also seen people mention that because I turned the iris function off, even though I get the blue/yellow screen error message that the problem probably lies somewhere else.

Short of bringing this projector in to be repaired is there anything else that someone can recommend?


----------



## Dave Harper

luisalbertokid said:


> No projector support DV.


Some UST projectors do support Dolby Vision and you can always add an HDFury and the right source device to get LLDV Dolby Vision on any display that can do HDR10.


----------



## b_scott

well my 6th? 5040 has developed a light blue spot on the bottom right corner that I can see only when looking out of the corner of my eye on black scenes. I'll always notice it but it's not the end of the world. And it's now out of warranty. 

I don't think I'll ever buy another Epson. I'm just tired of the dust blobs and stress over them.


----------



## inspector

Yeah, I have a very so light green blot in the lower left bottom of the screen. It’s only slightly visible when playing a 2,35:1 movie, but disappears during a full screen one.

I was going to get a 6050, but since that is the only problem with the 6040, I’ll keep it. Also, it took me way to long to dial in my settings…I didn’t want to go thru that again.


----------



## Daverey06

I recently got an LG C1 so I think I am definitely spoiled by it's amazing black levels that I realize a projector will never come close to. It also doesn't help that I have white walls in my theater room since my wife won't let me paint it dark since it doubles as kid's play room. Anyways, my question is what can be done to give the 5040UB the best black levels aside from lowering the brightness level? Is there any other setting in particular that is good to adjust to make the blacks look less gray?


----------



## deano86

Not for nothing.. .but if you have white walls, the light that bounces around from that kills projector black level performance! Just getting permission to paint a darker color would help a lot. Installing several feet of black velvet extending out from the screen on the ceiling and walls would help a ton, but I can only imagine the blowback you would get with how that would look! lol . Otherwise, using the Digital Cinema or Cinema modes actuates the Cinema filter which does improve black levels quite a bit.... Or dialing down your Manual Iris value. Your other option would be expensive, but getting a grey/high contrast or Ambient Light Rejecting screen would help a lot from what I have read.


----------



## tjsadler

For an inexpensive ALR screen look at Carl's Place ALR material. If you can DIY the frame the material is great and about $175 for enough to do a large screen. I've been using it for several years. Here's a couple shots from my 5040UBe. The second image is just zoomed in with the same amount of light in the room. It's actually lighter in the room than what the camera shows. Obviously I talked my wife into a darker color for that half the room and the long wall on the right. It doesn't have to be jet black to be helpful for your screen. Something darker and with a flat paint will work well. Mine is a gray color that probably isn't as dark as it looks in the photos. Just remind her that bold dramatic colors are popular these days and it will really set off the room!


----------



## inspector

Dump her and get another round one…just joking. If you go along with her, you won’t have a home theater.


----------



## inspector

Hope it works out!


----------



## xbladr

So, I recently picked up an HD Fury VRROOM. The goal here was to tell the XBOX Series X to downscale the incoming signal to 4k60 4:2:0 8bit. This would then allow games to come across at 4k60 while still outputting some HDR data. This seems like a simple and common thing on the Linker however on the VRROOM I can not get it working. Has anyone configured a VRROOM to work with the xbox and the Epson 5040? I was also trying to do the exact same thing with my NVIDIA Shield but running into the same problem there.


----------



## Dave Harper

I don't know the VRROOM yet, but are you using its scaling functions to do this?

This is what I use on the Vertex2 to do what you’re asking. Is there a similar tab for VRROOM?









I would try the auto scaling first.


----------



## xbladr

So when I purchased the vroom and even in the documentation it mentions scaling however, it seems it was never actually added in as a feature. I have the newest firmware too which is frustrating. The auto downscaling solution decides to just put it at 1080p60 4:2:0 8 bit which is awful. The VRROOM is their most powerful device to date so they say and its missing a KEY function it seems. I was testing with all sorts of modes tonight and it did not seem to matter what I did. It was either 4k60 4:2:0 SDR or 1080p 4:2:0 HDR


----------



## Daverey06

Just curious, but when you don't have any felt borders you can hang on your 16:9 sized screen when viewing 2.39:1 content, and you have zoom your image to get it to fill up the screen and are left with the black bars on top and bottom of the screen, do most just deal with the light from the black bars in the movie above and below the screen? Or do you use the blanking feature and does that make a big difference since it is only covering a part of the image that would just have a black bar anyways?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Daverey06 said:


> Or do you use the blanking feature and does that make a big difference since it is only covering a part of the image that would just have a black bar anyways?


Blanking can be used to hide part of the image, but it does not make the black bars any blacker.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Hi all, I've seen a lot of people on this thread talking about feeding the 5040 with HDR tone-mapped to SDR using either Panasonic UHD BD players or HD Fury, stating that image looks much better while maintaining the BT2020 color space. But how about the Zidoo players that tone-map HDR and even DV to SDR with lots of adjustment options? I am not familiar with Zidoo but saw some videos on YouTube and it seemed really promising, despite some people complaining about washed out images. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks! 😉


----------



## Daverey06

Dominic Chan said:


> Blanking can be used to hide part of the image, but it does not make the black bars any blacker.


Just curious then for those who have a 16:9 screen do most fill up the screen when watching a 2.39:1 image and just use blanking on the left and right sides, or do most just deal with the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Daverey06 said:


> Just curious then for those who have a 16:9 screen do most fill up the screen when watching a 2.39:1 image and just use blanking on the left and right sides, or do most just deal with the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen?


I would say the latter. You would too much picture area by blanking the left and right sides.


----------



## Dominic Chan

luisalbertokid said:


> Hi all, I've seen a lot of people on this thread talking about feeding the 5040 with HDR tone-mapped to SDR using either Panasonic UHD BD players or HD Fury, stating that image looks much better while maintaining the BT2020 color space. But how about the Zidoo players that tone-map HDR and even DV to SDR with lots of adjustment options? I am not familiar with Zidoo but saw some videos on YouTube and it seemed really promising, despite some people complaining about washed out images. Any thoughts on that?
> Thanks! 😉


Zidoo probably does a better job than the Panasonic but it's primarily for playing local (and network) files. No streaming apps.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Dominic Chan said:


> Zidoo probably does a better job than the Panasonic but it's primarily for playing local (and network) files. No streaming apps.


Nice to know, I am really curious about its video processing capabilities, too bad that here in Brazil we basically have to buy everything blindly from foreigner sites like Amazon.


----------



## inspector

Daverey06 said:


> Just curious then for those who have a 16:9 screen do most fill up the screen when watching a 2.39:1 image and just use blanking on the left and right sides, or do most just deal with the black bars on the top and bottom of the screen?


Just like watcching your TV, you become used to it.


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> Just like watcching your TV, you become used to it.


But doesn’t the light that spills over on the top and bottom of the screen bother you? Does it affect the overall image quality? I guess that is why people say to have dark walls and ceilings?


----------



## inspector

My HT room is 12' x 17' and light controled...pitch black. Walls, ceiling and carpet are dark. Screen wall black. No light spill over.


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> My HT room is 12' x 17' and light controled...pitch black. Walls, ceiling and carpet are dark. Screen wall black. No light spill over.


Isn’t there light that spills over where black bars are if you want the image to fill up your screen though? I get that dark walls would maybe make it less noticeable, but isn’t the projector still technically projecting the black bars portion of the image off the screen?


----------



## Dominic Chan

Daverey06 said:


> Isn’t there light that spills over where black bars are if you want the image to fill up your screen though? I get that dark walls would maybe make it less noticeable, but isn’t the projector still technically projecting the black bars portion of the image off the screen?


It's both.
In a "bad" room, the reflections from walls and ceiling will light up the black bars area.
In a perfect room (no reflections), the projector itself still puts out some light in the black bars.
"Physical" masking helps in both cases.


----------



## deano86

Daverey06 said:


> Isn’t there light that spills over where black bars are if you want the image to fill up your screen though? I get that dark walls would maybe make it less noticeable, but isn’t the projector still technically projecting the black bars portion of the image off the screen?


It is not noticeable and not a problem ... unless your Brightness is set way too high... but like others have said, we do have additional black around our 2.35:1 screens to improve with contrast anyway. If your room is too bright .. with light colored walls and such, then ya, it could be noticeable.


----------



## ClerkDante

Recently purchased an LS12000 to replace my 5040. What’s the best way to sell this wonderful projector? I thought of tossing it on eBay but the likely $100 plus in fees is off putting.


----------



## xbladr

ClerkDante said:


> Recently purchased an LS12000 to replace my 5040. What’s the best way to sell this wonderful projector? I thought of tossing it on eBay but the likely $100 plus in fees is off putting.


I tend to use facebook marketplace for many things. You can also post it here on the forums for sale in the classified section


----------



## inspector

Before I bought my Epsom 6040, I sold my Epson 9500 and all my equipment that went with it, AVR, BD players, etc., thru Craigslist, of couse pick up only and everything sold over the weekend. No packaging and shipping.


----------



## varmatheone

ClerkDante said:


> Recently purchased an LS12000 to replace my 5040. What’s the best way to sell this wonderful projector? I thought of tossing it on eBay but the likely $100 plus in fees is off putting.


What do you think of the LS12000? Is it a worthy upgrade? I am currently using madvr with the 5040, with a diy screen (152")


----------



## jbnpaul

I have 5040 with madVR
I did demo the new Epson in Best Buy. It is an upgrade, but nothing major compared to 5040.

With madVR HDR improvements are worthless. I will still be using madVR. 

Resolution is not that different when you put your nose to the screen. But the new one is a definite improvement. But still not native.

It’s more or less 5040 with a laser. HDR tonemapping support and bandwidth fixes. It’s great for a new user. But in my opinion not worth the cost of upgrade if you already have a 5040. Definitely not worth it if you are using madVR.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## D.Guimel

jbnpaul said:


> I have 5040 with madVR
> I did demo the new Epson in Best Buy. It is an upgrade, but nothing major compared to 5040.
> 
> With madVR HDR improvements are worthless. I will still be using madVR.
> 
> Resolution is not that different when you put your nose to the screen. But the new one is a definite improvement. But still not native.
> 
> It’s more or less 5040 with a laser. HDR tonemapping support and bandwidth fixes. It’s great for a new user. But in my opinion not worth the cost of upgrade if you already have a 5040. Definitely not worth it if you are using madVR.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


could you share your madvr settings?


----------



## inspector

Has anyone receive a Safety Letter from Epson to be careful hanging your pj? This is the first time I have ever received anything like this from them.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Hello;
my Home Cinema 5040ub just turned off by itself with the fans at full power and the "lamp indicator" led flashing orange, as can be seen in the attached picture. I have more or less 800 hours on the bulb, so how come I am experiencing a bulb failure?
Thanks!


----------



## deano86

luisalbertokid said:


> Hello;
> my Home Cinema 5040ub just turned off by itself with the fans at full power and the "lamp indicator" led flashing orange, as can be seen in the attached picture. I have more or less 800 hours on the bulb, so how come I am experiencing a bulb failure?
> Thanks!
> 
> View attachment 3335722


Because,... sometimes items like bulbs can fail prematurely... it happens.. But make sure you have actually looked at your troubleshooting table in your manual and looked up exactly what "all" your indicators ... including the Power light are doing... Depending on what indicators are lit and whether they are flashing or not can mean other things than what you think...


----------



## luisalbertokid

deano86 said:


> Because,... sometimes items like bulbs can fail prematurely... it happens.. But make sure you have actually looked at your troubleshooting table in your manual and looked up exactly what "all" your indicators ... including the Power light are doing... Depending on what indicators are lit and whether they are flashing or not can mean other things than what you think...


Thanks for the feedback. Turned the projector on again and it worked fine, watched an episode of Rings of Power and no problems whatsoever. I hope that was just one of those crazy bugs that happens every now and then.


----------



## luisalbertokid

deano86 said:


> Because,... sometimes items like bulbs can fail prematurely... it happens.. But make sure you have actually looked at your troubleshooting table in your manual and looked up exactly what "all" your indicators ... including the Power light are doing... Depending on what indicators are lit and whether they are flashing or not can mean other things than what you think...


Hello there;
the fact that the projector worked fine once I turned it on after a while means something? Like a "it's not that bad" kind of situation? Or should I expect the worse? Fingers crossed 🤞🤞
Thanks!


----------



## deano86

luisalbertokid said:


> Hello there;
> the fact that the projector worked fine once I turned it on after a while means something? Like a "it's not that bad" kind of situation? Or should I expect the worse? Fingers crossed 🤞🤞
> Thanks!


Hard to say obviously... maybe you had a slight incoming power drop and it was mis-detected by the bulb power ballast circuit as a possible bulb issue....or this is just the first indication of a bulb that is indeed starting to have problems.....who knows for certain. But, If a shutdown happens again and the combination of indicators point to your bulb, then about the only thing you can try then is to power down and remove and reseat the bulb assy and see what happens... In the meantime, I would make sure you have a spare bulb on hand.... which you should really have at all times anyway.


----------



## luisalbertokid

deano86 said:


> Hard to say obviously... maybe you had a slight incoming power drop and it was mis-detected by the bulb power ballast circuit as a possible bulb issue....or this is just the first indication of a bulb that is indeed starting to have problems.....who knows for certain. But, If a shutdown happens again and the combination of indicators point to your bulb, then about the only thing you can try then is to power down and remove and reseat the bulb assy and see what happens... In the meantime, I would make sure you have a spare bulb on hand.... which you should really have at all times anyway.


Thanks, man! I really hope it was an isolated incident. I already have a BenQ HT3550 on repair for more than 2 months... By the way, I didn't understand this: _"...the only thing you can try then is to power down and remove and reseat the bulb assy and see what happens"_. How can I do that?
Thanks a lot and sorry if my questions are silly, I'm in Brasil and we're still in the dark ages of home theater... 😬


----------



## luisalbertokid

Well, I sent screen shots of the service menu to Epson and they said it's thankfully a bad lamp (had 47 lamp failures in the past 2 or 3 months!), no ballast issue or anything like that. Just replace the bulb, they said, and I am relieved 😃


----------



## ruggercb

Does anyone have a good method to muffle the exhaust sound? I’ve found running in high lamp mode gives the PQ I’m after, but I sure miss the whisper quiet of eco or medium. I have an anamorphic lens in front; don’t think a hush box would work. Thinking of something like acoustic foam….

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Frichard

luisalbertokid said:


> Well, I sent screen shots of the service menu to Epson and they said it's thankfully a bad lamp (had 47 lamp failures in the past 2 or 3 months!), no ballast issue or anything like that. Just replace the bulb, they said, and I am relieved 😃


It happens to me from time to time. I just close it and reopen it.
Bulb hasn't fail yet.




ruggercb said:


> Does anyone have a good method to muffle the exhaust sound? I’ve found running in high lamp mode gives the PQ I’m after, but I sure miss the whisper quiet of eco or medium. I have an anamorphic lens in front; don’t think a hush box would work. Thinking of something like acoustic foam….
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


There's not much you can do if you don't want a hush box.


----------



## ruggercb

Frichard said:


> There's not much you can do if you don't want a hush box.


Not that I don’t want one, I just don’t know if I can fit one in with the A lens so close to the projector. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Frichard

ruggercb said:


> Not that I don’t want one, I just don’t know if I can fit one in with the A lens so close to the projector.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you build it yourself. You could let the front open.


----------



## PixelPusher15

5040 owners might find this interesting: 








Improving contrast and gamut coverage on an Epson...


Thanks to this thread digging into how JVC pulled off the HC optical block I got thinking about trying a circular polarizer with the two projectors I have here. My Epson 5050 and JVC x790. I'll cut to the chase on the JVC...very minor bump at 0% ADL (10%) and it hurts contrast above 1%. Gamut...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## b_scott

I have a slight pinkish hue on the upper right corner of my 5040. It's a refurb I received as my 4th replacement, and then went out of warranty. Wondering if anyone has seen this and/or knows how to fix it (or if it's even possible). Wondering if maybe one of my LCD screens is slightly burned. I mostly noice it during black and white films or if there is a bright which scene.


----------



## Dominic Chan

b_scott said:


> I have a slight pinkish hue on the upper right corner of my 5040. It's a refurb I received as my 4th replacement, and then went out of warranty. Wondering if anyone has seen this and/or knows how to fix it (or if it's even possible). Wondering if maybe one of my LCD screens is slightly burned. I mostly noice it during black and white films or if there is a bright which scene.


Doesn't the 5040 include an adjustment for colour uniformity?


----------



## b_scott

Dominic Chan said:


> Doesn't the 5040 include an adjustment for colour uniformity?


edit: wow you are right. I think I fixed it! I had to knock down the Red -10 in the upper right corner.


----------



## Point Zero

Hi Inspector

Have been loving your settings with my Epson and nvidia shield pro.

I have eventually treated myself with a Panny ub420 as you had suggested.

Just a little confused apologies for the lack of knowledge with these players. I’m trying to follow your settings but when I get to “remote” on your settings for the hdr optimiser do I just press “option” on the remote while playing a 4k movie and go to “picture settings” and turn On “HDR Optimiser ” and then adjust it with your recommended adjustments ?

please check pic below :


----------



## Point Zero

Also after doing this I try to set it to “Standard” via the hdr setting button on the remote and this window pops up:


----------



## inspector

I can.t get to that screen, no matter which uhd disc I play. I’m stumped.


----------



## cinjon4k

I suspect the standard setting excludes HDR.
Just save your settings in one of the other memories.


----------



## Point Zero

So shall I save it in “set 1” it’s just inspector settings suggested “standard”.


----------



## cinjon4k

that should be fine.


----------



## Point Zero

All working fine now thanks guys.

Inspectors hdr settings with the Panny does look very bright now thanks to the optimiser hdr built into the Panny, just feel it looks a bit white washed with skin tones, looks a bit off but will play with it a little and see how it comes out.

Apart from that made a lot of difference anyone with an Epson should get one of these makes a huge difference with hdr movies imo.

Was comparing it with my nividia pro and the hdr was alot sharper and of course brighter but when comparing with sdr, the nvidia hdr Panny vs sdr nvidia pro the sdr had more colour depth and better skin tones. All done with inspeactor settings.


----------



## inspector

Going to contact Panasonic today to find out why I can't get STANDARD when I push the HDR button on the remote.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Imagine how cool it would be if these panny players had hdmi in like the oppos did... 🤓


----------



## Point Zero

Totally agree


----------



## Point Zero

Inspector hope you got your optimiser settings sorted do let us know how you get on.


----------



## inspector

Yup. I'll be going out to the HT soon and I'll try then. I'll let everyone know!


----------



## Daverey06

I only have the mid tier HD version of Netflix, so obviously that means SDR REC709 and HD image quality. That said, I am using an Amazon Firestick 4k with my Epson 5040UB and though it shows REC709 when I pull up the developer menu of the Firestick, when I go into the menu info of my Epson 5040UB it shows BT2020. Why would it show that even when watching SDR content?


----------



## inspector

I finally found out the problem of not being able to use HDR SETTING on remote (Panny 420) to get to STANDARD. 

Color Mode must be YcBr(Auto) and put it on Set 1, Optimzer to ON and now the HDR SETTING button works and set it to STANDARD


----------



## Point Zero

Glad to know you got it sorted.

Inspector when you set it to “Standard” do you adjust the “dynamic range” “brightness” “tone curve (white)” “tone curve (black)” ?


----------



## Daverey06

Point Zero said:


> Glad to know you got it sorted.
> 
> Inspector when you set it to “Standard” do you adjust the “dynamic range” “brightness” “tone curve (white)” “tone curve (black)” ?


I know some people like to make adjustments on that, but as the menu itself says, to change it would alter the image from the director's intent, which is why I don't. If the player didn't already have a feature that optimized the image for a projector I would think it would make sense to adjust it, but since the Panasonics have a feature to tell the player it is on a low luminance LCD or projector, I don't see the reason to change it. But obviously that is a personal preference thing.


----------



## inspector

I actually changed the pj to middle luminance from low.


----------



## inspector

Point Zero said:


> Glad to know you got it sorted.
> 
> Inspector when you set it to “Standard” do you adjust the “dynamic range” “brightness” “tone curve (white)” “tone curve (black)” ?


I left those alone.


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> I actually changed the pj to middle luminance from low.


I don't recall there being more than one projector setting on the Panasonics. You're saying there are?


----------



## inspector

I don’t have it in front of me, but there are 3 or 4 setting, one of them is for pj’s, I just used the one above that one.


----------



## inspector

Yes, only one for pj’s .


----------



## inspector

Just watched the newest HELLBOY with the corrected HDR settings and it looked beautiful. Just 16 more to re-watch and enjoy.


----------



## jbs102

Trying to follow this update, but now I'm a little confused. Inspector's settings this entire time had the optimiser at +8, the white curve +4, and the black curve -4 which i was using (like the image below). Is the new update to just have the optimiser at +8 and everything else at 0? I always thought the 'standard' on the remote overrode the customer dynamic range/brightness/curve settings. 

View attachment 3347231

[/QUOTE]


----------



## Point Zero

That’s exactly what I was doing and confused, thought I misunderstood something on inspectors settings glad to know now I was not the only one.

Would also like to know if there’s a new recommended setting now on inspectors settings?


----------



## inspector

I'll get back tomorrow with all the settinngs I'm using.


----------



## inspector

Here are the Panny 420 settings:

Disc not playing:


SETUP
HDMI...
4K
4k/60/4:4:4
Auto
Auto
Audio only
On
Enhanced...
YCbCr Auto
Auto 12 Bit Priority
HDR/BT 2020 (auto)
On
Auto
Middle High Luminance LCD (not projector)
Off
Auto
Auto
On
Auto

VIDEO
Auto
On
AUDIO
Off
-
Up to 96 kHz
Surround Encoded
Normal
-
0ms
Off
Firm Ware...1.69 (newest)


Disc playing

Video Settings
Optomizer (set 1)
On (when this is on, it zeros out all the below settings that I had originally had
all zeros
Color Adjustment
all zeros
Sharpness
all zeros
Noise Reduction
all zeros
Audio Settings
Off
192/176.4KHz
Off
On (video on)


I hope this helps. My UHD discs look great with these settings.

John


----------



## Point Zero

Thanks inspector


----------



## inspector

You’re welcome!


----------



## inspector

Going to set up a setting for B&W UHD discs,since more are coming down the line. I did it for 3D, BD and now UHD.


----------



## MFGH

How do i setup HDR on the Epson 5040ub? My level of knowledge on this is the same as newborns.... The problem i am having is that the darker scenes with 4K Blu-ray discs tend to get very dark, it sometimes (LOTR 1) gets on the grey side and on other content (Love and monsters, opening scene) is pretty much all dark/black. I am using the Digital Cinema now with birghtness on 65 and contrast on 75, my screen is Dreamscreen V4 acoustic transparent, projecting 133" in 2.35:1. Can someone screenshot their settings as of a starting point for tweaking? My projector is not calibrated for my screen, not yet at least.


----------



## inspector

Read my signature above for the setting for the 5040. They have the Panny 420 at Amazon for $200. It will really make your UHD BDs really shine. The above setting are above too.


----------



## webmst

I've seen soo much on lldv mostly from about 18 months ago so please could you share what settings you currently use in a Oppo 203 + Shield Pro/HDfury Vertex2/ Epson 5040.
I use a mix in the Epson of Inspectors and Dave Harper's setups usually.


----------



## luisalbertokid

MFGH said:


> How do i setup HDR on the Epson 5040ub? My level of knowledge on this is the same as newborns.... The problem i am having is that the darker scenes with 4K Blu-ray discs tend to get very dark, it sometimes (LOTR 1) gets on the grey side and on other content (Love and monsters, opening scene) is pretty much all dark/black. I am using the Digital Cinema now with birghtness on 65 and contrast on 75, my screen is Dreamscreen V4 acoustic transparent, projecting 133" in 2.35:1. Can someone screenshot their settings as of a starting point for tweaking? My projector is not calibrated for my screen, not yet at least.


You will never have a good image with brightness cranked up to 65, you are washing out the whole image and killing shadow detail. If you want a brighter image with HDR on the 5040 you have to play with the gamma settings - leave brightness at 50. Use a custom gamma or +1 or even +2, that will bright up specific portions of the image (mostly midtones, bringing detail on the shadows) without washing it completely. And if you want deeper blacks with a higher gamma you can close down the iris step by step (from 0 to -20, although it's not recommended to go below -18) and also lower a bit the RGB offsets to get blacker blacks (from 50 to 48, 47).


----------



## inspector

…and get a Panny 420/820 and your pj will shine playing UHD discs!


----------



## MFGH

I hoped this upgrading to 4k was done now, already bought the Sony UBP-X700 brand new about a year ago, but i will see at BF if there may be a sale on the Panasonic 420. 
Anyways, i put on the 4k settings for hdr and the picture got better, but it still is behind that for 1080p Blu-ray. Will the Panasonic 420 really get rid of the gray-scale on black-scenes? Or am i better suited just to get the 5040 calibrated?


----------



## inspector

If you spend $ for an ISF, make sure that they have done a 5050:6040. Remember, there are 5-6 different movie settings, including 2? for 3D,

Just use my settings in my SIG and you’ll be happy..,guaranteed!


----------



## MFGH

inspector said:


> If you spend $ for an ISF, make sure that they have done a 5050:6040. Remember, there are 5-6 different movie settings, including 2? for 3D,
> 
> Just use my settings in my SIG and you’ll be happy..,guaranteed!


I used the settings in your SIG and it still was grey in darker scenes, my projector-screen has three layers of screen, black, then grey and the white in the outer level. 
I have a buddy that calibrate projectors so he will 'have a look at it', it got better with your settings but the picture seems too blue-ish in the darker scenes.


----------



## inspector

My screen is white, so I've never had that problem. Good luck with the ISF!


----------



## inspector

...and don't forget to tell us what picture setting they used to calibrate or if they calibrated them all.


----------



## Fantasma

My Epson 5040UB started outputting in HDR 4k with Roku 4800x model, they must have had a firmware update because I tried in past with errors.

I can now stream netflix/hbo max HDR titles. Not sure if news for anyone but that was a nice change that I noticed a month or so ago.


----------



## DavAbq

Help with 5040 3D setting, overthunk till numb!

In the settings, there is a big 3D question that has driven me so crazy I don’t even know how to ask the question. My problem is where it asks for screen size. Simply, I watch 3D movies in 2.35 where the picture is 154” diagonal. (Rounding off all numbers). I adjust zoom to fill up the 142” width. Now, filling to that width actually gives me a 163” diagonal 16 x 9 I am projecting with the black bar which is larger vertically than the screen due to height limitations. The question is then, which size do I tell the projector, 154” or 163”? This got me wondering why they want to know? What will the projector change? I then guessed it must be horizontal distance of the left from the right eye picture. That would change degree/separation of the 3D effect. But then wouldn’t distance from screen also change the amount of 3D separation/depth Since the closer you sit, the farther apart the dots appear to be? Therefore wouldn’t this be a non-critical adjustment? And then if you tell the projector a screen size larger than actual, the 3D depth would be greater than the directors standard, and if you state a smaller than actual screen size, the 3D effect would be reduced, is that anywhere near correct thinking? But then since the projector is asking for screen size, even though not aspect ratio, wouldn’t it be calculating the correct L vs R pictures for the viewing size? Now you see how I got myself here.


----------



## inspector

My 16x9 screen is measured from top right corner to bottom left corner or vice versa. My screen is 110". You would measure your 2.35:1 screen the same way and put that screen size in...don't over think it. If you're still having a problem, I'm sure Epson will help you with it.


----------



## WhyWait

luisalbertokid said:


> …you can close down the iris step by step (from 0 to -20, although it's not recommended to go below -18)…


That’s the first I’ve read about not going below -18 in the iris. What’s the reasoning/test results behind that?


----------



## jesped2

Has anybody been succesful doing overclocking to get a higher refresh rate?


----------



## luisalbertokid

jesped2 said:


> Has anybody been succesful doing overclocking to get a higher refresh rate?


Could you elaborate on that please? Never heard of it. Thx.


----------



## jesped2

luisalbertokid said:


> Could you elaborate on that please? Never heard of it. Thx.


It's something many people do with Monitors and TV's on PC. You can edit and set new custom display modes using CRU ( Custom Resolution Utility (CRU) ), and it's usual that displays can reach beyond their official specs without problem. Like getting 72Hz, 75Hz or even 90Hz on 60Hz displays.

I did a test with my 6040UB and it recognizes and displays a 72Hz signal (23.976 x 3)










BUT the motion is not smooth. It's like it's jumping or losing frames, and this can be easily checked with the Blurbuster's UFO test: TestUFO: Framerates

This guy ( Blur Busters Custom Resolution (CRU) Glossary 101 / FAQ - Blur Busters Forums ) says he managed to get stable 75Hz, but on a different model, a w1070 DLP projector. He says that he managed lowering the number of porch lines. This gets a bit over my knowledge and I honestly don't know if this makes sense for an LCD projector like our Epson or what kind of settings are needed, but if possible, it would be great to get RGB 10bit 72Hz.


----------



## b_scott

Fantasma said:


> My Epson 5040UB started outputting in HDR 4k with Roku 4800x model, they must have had a firmware update because I tried in past with errors.
> 
> I can now stream netflix/hbo max HDR titles. Not sure if news for anyone but that was a nice change that I noticed a month or so ago.


are you surprised that Roku outputs it, or the Epson? Because my 5040 does 4K HDR at 24/29hz. Not 60hz though. At least with my Shield TV


----------



## deano86

b_scott said:


> are you surprised that Roku outputs it, or the Epson? Because my 5040 does 4K HDR at 24/29hz. Not 60hz though. At least with my Shield TV


I guess it maybe is surprising that the Roku would output it... on my Roku Ultra, in its display settings, upon HDMI handshake it correctly determines that the 5040 CAN do 4K HDR up to 30Hz, but NOT do 4K HDR at 60hz, so it seems to just suggest since that can not be passed, it wants to default to 1080p HDR...... on mine anyway.


----------



## DavAbq

inspector said:


> My 16x9 screen is measured from top right corner to bottom left corner or vice versa. My screen is 110". You would measure your 2.35:1 screen the same way and put that screen size in...don't over think it. If you're still having a problem, I'm sure Epson will help you with it.


Got ya. Thanks.


----------



## ruggercb

My Epson refurb is a great unit, but I changed the lamp last night at 775 hours. I swear the brightness doubled! 775 hours on medium brightness doesn’t seem great. They do install new bulbs in refurb units don’t they? In fairness, my previous 5040(new) bulb blew at 1300, but that’s not a great number either….what are you guys’ experience with bulbs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

My original lamp I changed at 4 years, around 3K hrs. With the new lamp, the brightnness was the same on the new one as the orginal. I think I wasted a lamp.

I keep it on medium and only high when I view UHD or 3D.


----------



## ruggercb

inspector said:


> My original lamp I changed at 4 years, around 3K hrs. With the new lamp, the brightnness was the same on the new one as the orginal. I think I wasted a lamp.
> 
> I keep it on medium and only high when I view UHD or 3D.


I can’t remember if it was my OG new 5040, or the warranty replacement new 5040, but I replaced the bulb, looking for the “wow” factor and it wasn’t there! Now on this warranty replacement refurb unit(best of the lot too!) the difference is drastic! This is a ushio bulb. $70 dollars rather than the official $300 ish ones. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

If you see that much difference, I'd keep it and buy a few more. The problem with that is that lamp may last only a short time. So, she how it does, then splurge.


----------



## chris.renfrew

I recently picked up a lightly used Epson 5040UB and am reading this thread to soak up as much knowledge as I can.

I'm currently in the middle of my home theater build and have a few questions before I get too far along.

For reference:

Room dimensions are 12' W x 17' D x 9' H
Projector will be ceiling mounted (the bottom of the lens will be approximately 12" below the ceiling = effectively 8' H)
Lens will be about 13.5' - 14.5' away from the screen
I'm debating between a 110" or 120" screen (16:9)
My LCR will not be in-wall mounted, so I'm not looking for acoustically transparent screen.
Questions:

1. Is there a recommended optimal 110" - 120" screen for these conditions (or recommended color/gain/etc)? Great picture is important, but so is my budget  .

2. The top of my screen will be about 90" above the floor - where the projector will be closer to 96" above the floor. Based on the attached screenshot from projector central, do I need to be concerned about the height of the projector compared to the screen? I selected the "ceiling mount" option, but I'm not sure how to interpret the results. The "Lens Shift" section at the bottom has me worried - what does it mean that "_the projector image can be shifted down an *additional *51" from the bottom_"? Is that supposed to include the 27" (assumed that the projector is aimed squarely in the middle of the screen)? A 110" screen is 54 inches tall - am I at risk of having my projector too high and the picture not projecting correctly to the screen? I've attached a basic design screenshot below. Can the Epson 5040UB project at this angle (via the lines in red) from this distance - or do I need to drop my projector down a bit more?

3. Is 13.5' - 14.5' an acceptable distance for this projector? I understand that it will require some gain (1.65x) - but my research has led me to believe that this is well within spec and won't make light output suffer too much, right?


----------



## ruggercb

chris.renfrew said:


> I recently picked up a lightly used Epson 5040UB and am reading this thread to soak up as much knowledge as I can.
> 
> I'm currently in the middle of my home theater build and have a few questions before I get too far along.
> 
> For reference:
> 
> Room dimensions are 12' W x 17' D x 9' H
> Projector will be ceiling mounted (the bottom of the lens will be approximately 12" below the ceiling = effectively 8' H)
> Lens will be about 13.5' - 14.5' away from the screen
> I'm debating between a 110" or 120" screen (16:9)
> My LCR will not be in-wall mounted, so I'm not looking for acoustically transparent screen.
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Is there a recommended optimal 110" - 120" screen for these conditions (or recommended color/gain/etc)? Great picture is important, but so is my budget  .
> 
> 2. The top of my screen will be about 90" above the floor - where the projector will be closer to 96" above the floor. Based on the attached screenshot from projector central, do I need to be concerned about the height of the projector compared to the screen? I selected the "ceiling mount" option, but I'm not sure how to interpret the results. The "Lens Shift" section at the bottom has me worried - what does it mean that "_the projector image can be shifted down an *additional *51" from the bottom_"? Is that supposed to include the 27" (assumed that the projector is aimed squarely in the middle of the screen)? A 110" screen is 54 inches tall - am I at risk of having my projector too high and the picture not projecting correctly to the screen? I've attached a basic design screenshot below. Can the Epson 5040UB project at this angle (via the lines in red) from this distance - or do I need to drop my projector down a bit more?
> 
> 3. Is 13.5' - 14.5' an acceptable distance for this projector? I understand that it will require some gain (1.65x) - but my research has led me to believe that this is well within spec and won't make light output suffer too much, right?
> 
> 
> View attachment 3362070
> 
> 
> View attachment 3362074


A lot of people suggest Silver Ticket screens. High quality, affordable price. I have owned one and liked it, but switched to an ALR a few years back.

The mounting distance should be fine, but you may need to zoom in to accommodate a shorter throw, and lose potential brightness.

The 5040 has tons of vertical shift. That won’t be a problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## inspector

I’ll send you what my setup is later tonite My room dimension’s are the same as yours.


----------



## inspector

chris.renfrew said:


> I recently picked up a lightly used Epson 5040UB and am reading this thread to soak up as much knowledge as I can.
> 
> I'm currently in the middle of my home theater build and have a few questions before I get too far along.
> 
> For reference:
> 
> Room dimensions are 12' W x 17' D x 9' H
> Projector will be ceiling mounted (the bottom of the lens will be approximately 12" below the ceiling = effectively 8' H)
> Lens will be about 13.5' - 14.5' away from the screen
> I'm debating between a 110" or 120" screen (16:9)
> My LCR will not be in-wall mounted, so I'm not looking for acoustically transparent screen.
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Is there a recommended optimal 110" - 120" screen for these conditions (or recommended color/gain/etc)? Great picture is important, but so is my budget  .
> 
> 2. The top of my screen will be about 90" above the floor - where the projector will be closer to 96" above the floor. Based on the attached screenshot from projector central, do I need to be concerned about the height of the projector compared to the screen? I selected the "ceiling mount" option, but I'm not sure how to interpret the results. The "Lens Shift" section at the bottom has me worried - what does it mean that "_the projector image can be shifted down an *additional *51" from the bottom_"? Is that supposed to include the 27" (assumed that the projector is aimed squarely in the middle of the screen)? A 110" screen is 54 inches tall - am I at risk of having my projector too high and the picture not projecting correctly to the screen? I've attached a basic design screenshot below. Can the Epson 5040UB project at this angle (via the lines in red) from this distance - or do I need to drop my projector down a bit more?
> 
> 3. Is 13.5' - 14.5' an acceptable distance for this projector? I understand that it will require some gain (1.65x) - but my research has led me to believe that this is well within spec and won't make light output suffer too much, right?
> 
> 
> View attachment 3362070
> 
> 
> View attachment 3362074


The bottom of my 6040, same as your 5040 is 20" from the ceiling. The main listening position is 10' from the screen. 

From the front of the PJ to the screen is 148". 

I have a 110" screen now and want to replace it with a 135" 16x9 Silver Ticket. Nothing will change with set up except refocusing to fit the wider screen.

Hope that helps.


----------



## chris.renfrew

inspector said:


> The bottom of my 6040, same as your 5040 is 20" from the ceiling. The main listening position is 10' from the screen.
> 
> From the front of the PJ to the screen is 148".
> 
> I have a 110" screen now and want to replace it with a 135" 16x9 Silver Ticket. Nothing will change with set up except refocusing to fit the wider screen.
> 
> Hope that helps.


Awesome - this is great info. What silver ticket 135" screen did you get?


----------



## inspector

Haven't bought it yet. Going with the .09 gain.


----------



## QuietKnight

I need help figuring out what to do with my broken 5040ub.

I bought it in 2017 but it stayed in a box for a few years because my media room took longer than expected to finish. I only hooked it up about a year ago. The other day I ran into the dreaded "no power" issue. I called up Epson and they basically just referred me to a local repair shop since it was out of warranty.

I've got enough electronics know-how to get in trouble, so I decided to see if I could find a blown capacitor or something on the power supply. As near as I can tell, the power supply is fine - couldn't see anything visually, and it's sending the right voltages to the mainboard based on another thread. The voltages going to the ballast were not right, but my understanding is that's expected because the mainboard controls the power supply. In any case, I figure the mainboard is probably the issue, and it doesn't seem like those are readily available anymore based on my searching. I considered just buying a refurbished projector from Epson and using the broken one for parts, but they're out of stock (probably played a part in them not offering to send me a refurb unit out of warranty).

I'm assuming I now own a paperweight and I'm trying to figure out what to do with it because it seems wasteful to just throw it in the trash. Does Epson have any sort of buy-back program? Is there a market for used, broken projectors? What have others done with their broken 5040's since it seems this was a very common issue.

I may still contact the repair shop, but I'm not hopeful they'll be able to help much.


----------



## inspector

Good luck! Keep us posted on the outcome.


----------



## D.Guimel

Could you share the settings you use in madvr with the epson 5040?


----------



## inspector

Sorry, I don't have a MADvr. Your best bet is to go back thru the posts of this thread, there are settings.


----------



## inspector

I've come up some changes to my NATURAL settings for UHD discs, they are:

IMAGE: (starting at the top)
58 to 70

SIGNAL:
Auto Bright to HDR Mode 1

Now your UHDs will really shine. The blacks will look like black, especially the borders around the frame.
Enjoy,

John


----------



## inspector

the above post should read...

57
70
50
50


----------



## inspector

I’ll try one more time :
IMAGE
57
70
50
50

SIGNAL
Auto Bright to HDR Mode 1

all the rest is the same.


----------



## RedPills4All

So as many of you prob know, Sony just updated the PS5 to output 1440p, which allows outputting a full ultrawide 21:9 pic on monitors (and with games) that support it. So why is no one talking about using this on projectors with cih setups? Is it not possible? I know our pj's can do almost any aspect and zoom to fit, so why not this? When I tried with my PS5 the option was grayed out. So I bought one of those dummy hdmi edids that trick the source into thinking it has compatible resolutions and if worked. I could access and enable 1440p and the 5040ub displayed the pic. However my pic didn't change to 21:9 like it would on an ultrawide monitor. I woold really love to do ultrawide gaming in the 5040ub on my cinemascope screen. Seems it should be possible but I don't know why I can't find more info on it. Anyome have a solution for this yet or know if it's possible?


----------



## darkangelism

My 5040ub started taking longer to start up and the bulb is dark a lot longer before it starts to light. replaced bulb 100 hours ago after previous bulb failed to light after 1000 hours. Does that sound like the ballast? I don't think i have the skill to replace that if it is.


----------



## deano86

darkangelism said:


> My 5040ub started taking longer to start up and the bulb is dark a lot longer before it starts to light. replaced bulb 100 hours ago after previous bulb failed to light after 1000 hours. Does that sound like the ballast? I don't think i have the skill to replace that if it is.


Are your bulbs assemblies actual OEM Epson? Or are they some type of 3rd party bulbs?


----------



## darkangelism

deano86 said:


> Are your bulbs assemblies actual OEM Epson? Or are they some type of 3rd party bulbs?


I have been buying from projectorpeople so i think they are oem


----------



## Daverey06

I realize it depends on the room, but I’ve seen some people say that for SDR content the only thing they recommend changing is the gamma to -2 since that is the closest you can get to a 2.4 gamma. I tried that but the image is far too dark. Does anyone else have any good settings for a large screen in a room with white walls? Not really sure if I should change anything or just stick to default Natural mode for SDR content. Thanks!


----------



## inspector

,,,and paint those walls, anything but white!!!


----------



## Daverey06

So I take it for just regular SDR type blurays, TV, etc. that most would say to just use Natural as it is the most accurate preset? If it's best to just leave it as is and not tinker with that setting then that sounds good to me.


----------



## Morphx2

Any good settings for 4k HDR via shield TV? No Panasonic player.


----------



## Daverey06

Whenever you choose the lens memory option of your choice, does anyone else find that they have to choose it twice because the first time you hit the button or choose the option that it is imprecise? That's one of my frustrations with this projector, it seems so difficult to get the lens memory to be precise and near impossible with one button press.


----------



## deano86

Daverey06 said:


> Whenever you choose the lens memory option of your choice, does anyone else find that they have to choose it twice because the first time you hit the button or choose the option that it is imprecise? That's one of my frustrations with this projector, it seems so difficult to get the lens memory to be precise and near impossible with one button press.


I have not really found that to be the case for me... do I find that it can drift just a bit after many weeks or so? sure, but after giving it a quick adjustment and resaving the preset, it seems to be good again. That was one advantage of my old Panasonic 8000 projector had over the Epson.... Instead of physically moving the lens up and down, it used a software image shift and only manually adjusted the zoom and focus; making it a much quicker and quieter Lens Memory function.... in addition it had an awesome aspect ratio auto detection feature that you could enable. When a scope movie started playing you could set it so the projector automatically engaged the lens preset you created for it, and likewise when you went back to normal 16:9 content, it would switch back. 

FWIW, I thought I had read somewhere that to make the Epson lens memory position more accurate, that you need to make big adjustments... and then finally step to your final selected position either vertical or horizontal and then no more. For example: start with your image way too vertical (either up or down) and also way too far horizontal (left or right). Then, step carefully to your "final" selected vertical or horizontal position and then do the other ... without making more little steps after that. If you have to make little adjustments back the opposite directions, that can induce some "slippage" in your saved position.


----------



## Daverey06

deano86 said:


> I have not really found that to be the case for me... do I find that it can drift just a bit after many weeks or so? sure, but after giving it a quick adjustment and resaving the preset, it seems to be good again. That was one advantage of my old Panasonic 8000 projector had over the Epson.... Instead of physically moving the lens up and down, it used a software image shift and only manually adjusted the zoom and focus; making it a much quicker and quieter Lens Memory function.... in addition it had an awesome aspect ratio auto detection feature that you could enable. When a scope movie started playing you could set it so the projector automatically engaged the lens preset you created for it, and likewise when you went back to normal 16:9 content, it would switch back.
> 
> FWIW, I thought I had read somewhere that to make the Epson lens memory position more accurate, that you need to make big adjustments... and then finally step to your final selected position either vertical or horizontal and then no more. For example: start with your image way too vertical (either up or down) and also way too far horizontal (left or right). Then, step carefully to your "final" selected vertical or horizontal position and then do the other ... without making more little steps after that. If you have to make little adjustments back the opposite directions, that can induce some "slippage" in your saved position.


Wow that aspect ratio auto detection feature sounds great! Whenever it is that I eventually get a different projector, I would definitely want a feature like that, especially with more and more content switching aspect ratios back and forth. I also wish the Epson would use a software image shift as that sounds like it would be more precise.


----------



## Daverey06

I realize that Digital Cinema mode is considerably darker than some of the 5040s other image settings, however because of the color filter on that mode, isn't it true that you will get the most out of the projectors limited HDR capabilities if you have this filter on? Otherwise you are missing out on a lot of different colors correct? Do other people just choose other modes because they are willing to sacrifice to full DCI P3 color gamut for a brighter image? I have tried some different settings to brighten up Digital Cinema mode on my massive screen, but was wondering if anyone has Digital Cinema settings for HDR content that truly looks good and is considerably bright?


----------



## Daverey06

I have tried to set mine based on the projectorreviews.com settings, but honestly the images showing their settings seem slightly out of order or missing some parts making it confusing to follow. I realize settings on a projector depend on a multitude of factors, but I would love to try some different settings to give me the color gamut of Digital Cinema but in a way that is less dark than the default version of that setting. Thanks!


----------



## deano86

Daverey06 said:


> I realize that Digital Cinema mode is considerably darker than some of the 5040s other image settings, however because of the color filter on that mode, isn't it true that you will get the most out of the projectors limited HDR capabilities if you have this filter on? Otherwise you are missing out on a lot of different colors correct? Do other people just choose other modes because they are willing to sacrifice to full DCI P3 color gamut for a brighter image? I have tried some different settings to brighten up Digital Cinema mode on my massive screen, but was wondering if anyone has Digital Cinema settings for HDR content that truly looks good and is considerably bright?


There is no magic settings to use..(not to mention using other peoples picture settings is just not really feasible, IMO... due to all the incredible amount of variation of display factors: screen size, screen gain, room brightness, bulb hours, distance to screen, personal biases..... etc.) if you want the widest color gamut coverage, you need to use Digital Cinema .... and if you need more brightness, you need to use the Medium or High lamp settings. If you just crank up the Contrast super high, you are just clipping your white highlights. The other option is to literally mount your projector as close as possible to your screen for full wide angle mode to wring out the maximum amount of brightness from your projector's bulb. 

Although, IMO, the best and most feasible option is to darken your room walls and ceiling and optimize it for front projection... including (if possible) installing dark felt around the outside of your screen and at least several feet in front of your screen. The difference this makes in front projection picture quality is incredible. Preventing light from bouncing around your room and back onto your screen will make your projected image colors really pop and will make your image brighter and improve your contrast ratio. I use ECO and only use Medium power setting for my 3D movies. 

But since the Epsons put out such an amazing REC709 picture and Full HDR performance just isn't possible anyway due its limitations, most everyone gladly gives up some of that "best" color performance in exchange for a more pleasing contrast/brightness picture.


----------



## Daverey06

deano86 said:


> There is no magic settings to use..(not to mention using other peoples picture settings is just not really feasible, IMO... due to all the incredible amount of variation of display factors: screen size, screen gain, room brightness, bulb hours, distance to screen, personal biases..... etc.) if you want the widest color gamut coverage, you need to use Digital Cinema .... and if you need more brightness, you need to use the Medium or High lamp settings. If you just crank up the Contrast super high, you are just clipping your white highlights. The other option is to literally mount your projector as close as possible to your screen for full wide angle mode to wring out the maximum amount of brightness from your projector's bulb.
> 
> Although, IMO, the best and most feasible option is to darken your room walls and ceiling and optimize it for front projection... including (if possible) installing dark felt around the outside of your screen and at least several feet in front of your screen. The difference this makes in front projection picture quality is incredible. Preventing light from bouncing around your room and back onto your screen will make your projected image colors really pop and will make your image brighter and improve your contrast ratio. I use ECO and only use Medium power setting for my 3D movies.
> 
> But since the Epsons put out such an amazing REC709 picture and Full HDR performance just isn't possible anyway due its limitations, most everyone gladly gives up some of that "best" color performance in exchange for a more pleasing contrast/brightness picture.


So how would you suggest viewing things on an Amazon Firestick 4K? I have the older model that can only output in 4K HDR whereas the Max version I believe can turn off HDR. Are you saying it's just better to not use HDR features at all on this projector?


----------



## Daverey06

deano86 said:


> There is no magic settings to use..(not to mention using other peoples picture settings is just not really feasible, IMO... due to all the incredible amount of variation of display factors: screen size, screen gain, room brightness, bulb hours, distance to screen, personal biases..... etc.) if you want the widest color gamut coverage, you need to use Digital Cinema .... and if you need more brightness, you need to use the Medium or High lamp settings. If you just crank up the Contrast super high, you are just clipping your white highlights. The other option is to literally mount your projector as close as possible to your screen for full wide angle mode to wring out the maximum amount of brightness from your projector's bulb.
> 
> Although, IMO, the best and most feasible option is to darken your room walls and ceiling and optimize it for front projection... including (if possible) installing dark felt around the outside of your screen and at least several feet in front of your screen. The difference this makes in front projection picture quality is incredible. Preventing light from bouncing around your room and back onto your screen will make your projected image colors really pop and will make your image brighter and improve your contrast ratio. I use ECO and only use Medium power setting for my 3D movies.
> 
> But since the Epsons put out such an amazing REC709 picture and Full HDR performance just isn't possible anyway due its limitations, most everyone gladly gives up some of that "best" color performance in exchange for a more pleasing contrast/brightness picture.


Also I am curious since there are so many factors affecting picture do you just stick with default settings, or do you use calibration equipment on your own setup?


----------



## deano86

Daverey06 said:


> So how would you suggest viewing things on an Amazon Firestick 4K? I have the older model that can only output in 4K HDR whereas the Max version I believe can turn off HDR. Are you saying it's just better to not use HDR features at all on this projector?


I don't use an Amazon Firestick 4K, so I have no idea about that... I can't imagine why you couldn't go into a viewing option and turn off HDR if you so wanted, but honestly... only you can decide if you feel that you are missing out on some amazing HDR color experience by not using the dimmer Digital Cinema mode. I myself suspect you wouldn't even hardly notice it by comparing it to a properly setup Natural viewing mode.... I think a lot of people have realized that compared to a flat panel, true HDR performance on a projector creates challenges at this time.. especially with this 1st generation HDR capable Epson projector model. 

The vast majority of my HDR and 4K sources are my own media viewed with a Zidoo Z9x media player. With its Dolby Vision VS10 engine, it does such an amazing job of tone mapping and converting to a REC709 gamut any HDR or Dolby Vision titles that I have, that I don't even bother trying to get a perfect HDR picture with REC2020 on my Epson at this point. You can even use the VS10 engine on the Zidoo on standard 1080p blurays. IMO, the Epson does an exceptional job projecting an SDR picture, but it just naturally struggles a bit with an HDR title. So why not play to the Epson's strength? Now, other more expensive projectors can probably do a great job with HDR titles.. even the subsequent Epson 5050 model has some improvements in this area. 

It just comes down to doing some careful comparisons and deciding for yourself what you prefer... I think if you forced yourself to only use Digital Cinema mode.. after a while you would be fine with it, but once you have seen the Natural or Bright Cinema modes, it's tough to go away from those picture modes.


----------



## WynsWrld98

deano86 said:


> I don't use an Amazon Firestick 4K, so I have no idea about that... I can't imagine why you couldn't go into a viewing option and turn off HDR if you so wanted, but honestly... only you can decide if you feel that you are missing out on some amazing HDR color experience by not using the dimmer Digital Cinema mode. I myself suspect you wouldn't even hardly notice it by comparing it to a properly setup Natural viewing mode.... I think a lot of people have realized that compared to a flat panel, true HDR performance on a projector creates challenges at this time.. especially with this 1st generation HDR capable Epson projector model.
> 
> The vast majority of my HDR and 4K sources are my own media viewed with a Zidoo Z9x media player. With its Dolby Vision VS10 engine, it does such an amazing job of tone mapping and converting to a REC709 gamut any HDR or Dolby Vision titles that I have, that I don't even bother trying to get a perfect HDR picture with REC2020 on my Epson at this point. You can even use the VS10 engine on the Zidoo on standard 1080p blurays. IMO, the Epson does an exceptional job projecting an SDR picture, but it just naturally struggles a bit with an HDR title. So why not play to the Epson's strength? Now, other more expensive projectors can probably do a great job with HDR titles.. even the subsequent Epson 5050 model has some improvements in this area.
> 
> It just comes down to doing some careful comparisons and deciding for yourself what you prefer... I think if you forced yourself to only use Digital Cinema mode.. after a while you would be fine with it, but once you have seen the Natural or Bright Cinema modes, it's tough to go away from those picture modes.


I also own a Zidoo Z9X. Can you please point me to info on how to set it up with the Epson to get it to use ripped MKVs that contain Dolby Vision? Thanks


----------



## deano86

Daverey06 said:


> Also I am curious since there are so many factors affecting picture do you just stick with default settings, or do you use calibration equipment on your own setup?


If you are going to go with just default settings with the Epson, IMO... the Natural preset is really good. But, at the very least you need to own some sort of calibration disc... such as the Spears and Munsil bluray calibration disc or better yet the newest HDR UHD disc. This is just to get you in the ballpark of a proper contrast, brightness color and tint settings. I do own a light meter and have dabbled with the HCFR software available on AVS and have done some calibrations.... it does work, but there is a bit a learning curve and it takes some time to really master, but it's the only way to get a proper flat greyscale. But, honestly I have been so impressed with the Epson's 4K pixel shift and its Natural mode preset, that I have only made a few tweaks to its main settings and gamma and I have called it good.


----------



## jbnpaul

Daverey06 said:


> I realize that Digital Cinema mode is considerably darker than some of the 5040s other image settings, however because of the color filter on that mode, isn't it true that you will get the most out of the projectors limited HDR capabilities if you have this filter on? Otherwise you are missing out on a lot of different colors correct? Do other people just choose other modes because they are willing to sacrifice to full DCI P3 color gamut for a brighter image? I have tried some different settings to brighten up Digital Cinema mode on my massive screen, but was wondering if anyone has Digital Cinema settings for HDR content that truly looks good and is considerably bright?


Yes, you do get better colors. But lose about half brightness.

For me the trade off is really easy, I want more brightness.

I have watched countless demo scenes with HDR on and just 4K. There are very few frames where HDR looks better. For vast majority (like 98%) I prefer the 4K image vs HDR.

I also use madVR. There no comparison needed, the madVR tone mapped to SDR vs in projector HDR is like reading a book using moonlight vs lights on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Daverey06

jbnpaul said:


> Yes, you do get better colors. But lose about half brightness.
> 
> For me the trade off is really easy, I want more brightness.
> 
> I have watched countless demo scenes with HDR on and just 4K. There are very few frames where HDR looks better. For vast majority (like 98%) I prefer the 4K image vs HDR.
> 
> I also use madVR. There no comparison needed, the madVR tone mapped to SDR vs in projector HDR is like reading a book using moonlight vs lights on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is that essentially the same as what the Panasonic 4K players do when you can set them to output SDR BT2020?


----------



## Daverey06

Also does anyone have any advice on what settings I should be changing to fix black crush? Or is that just unavoidable in Digital Cinema mode?


----------



## Daverey06

sleepingatsea said:


> Yes, to engage the DCI - P3 color filter and make the most of BT.2020, you need to be in Digital Cinema mode. In natural you won't be getting the full benefits. It definitely display more natural and deeper colors however you lose some brightness when you go to Digital cinema mode. That's why I use it with the Panny player where I can increase the brightness using the Dynamic Range slider without crushing the whites or losing good blacks.


Do you have any recommended settings on the Panasonic HDR settings that work well in Digital Cinema mode? Do you just move the slider on one category or multiple? And what number do you put it on. If you move it too high I find it makes the blacks look too gray.


----------



## Morphx2

Nevermind, fixed problem


----------



## Daverey06

I realize ideal settings are subjective but can anyone give me the best settings they have for Digital Cinema mode as well as for a Panasonic DP UB420 on the HDR Optimizer?


----------



## john hunter

Daverey06 said:


> I realize ideal settings are subjective but can anyone give me the best settings they have for Digital Cinema mode as well as for a Panasonic DP UB420 on the HDR Optimizer?


The key to good brightness is in the 420 settings to use not the one which says projector but the one above it
.That plus Auto Bright (which works well for SDR as well).
On the Optimizer settings 1 for DR and then tweak the brightness and black and white curves.
.Sorry can't be more specific as travelling and relying on memory.
In the Digital Cinema settings I found it best to boast brightness and reduce contrast from their default settings.
I am very picky as to PQ and using these settings as given me an excellent picture.
I trust they will help you.


----------



## Daverey06

john hunter said:


> The key to good brightness is in the 420 settings to use not the one which says projector but the one above it
> .That plus Auto Bright (which works well for SDR as well).
> On the Optimizer settings 1 for DR and then tweak the brightness and black and white curves.
> .Sorry can't be more specific as travelling and relying on memory.
> In the Digital Cinema settings I found it best to boast brightness and reduce contrast from their default settings.
> I am very picky as to PQ and using these settings as given me an excellent picture.
> I trust they will help you.


I appreciate it and if you can give more specifics some time later, it'd be much appreciated! 

I am currently using the Digital Cinema settings from projectorreviews.com as they seem to me to be the brightest I have seen so far. Unfortunately due to it being Digital Cinema mode it still has issues with black crush.


----------



## deano86

Daverey06 said:


> I appreciate it and if you can give more specifics some time later, it'd be much appreciated!
> 
> I am currently using the Digital Cinema settings from projectorreviews.com as they seem to me to be the brightest I have seen so far. Unfortunately due to it being Digital Cinema mode it still has issues with black crush.


Get yourself a proper calibration test disc or download some proper test patterns and stop guessing with your settings on Digital Cinema mode... setting your contrast and brightness settings by using other peoples setups is folly. ... way too many variables in that regard.


----------



## Daverey06

I have a question in regards to the different Dynamic Range settings. I always have mine set to Auto Bright. Should I be going in there and changing that anytime I am watching something that isn't in HDR to the SDR option? Or does Auto Bright imply if it's an SDR signal it will switch it to that automatically?


----------



## inspector

Don't know anything about Dynamic settings, but why don't give us a run down on all the settings for that setting like I have done?


----------



## Daverey06

inspector said:


> Don't know anything about Dynamic settings, but why don't give us a run down on all the settings for that setting like I have done?


This menu is what I am talking about.


----------



## deano86

Auto Bright refers to an option that was added via latest Epson firmware to provide better (more pleasing) HDR performance by switching to HDR mode 1 (brightest option) instead of HDR mode 2 upon detecting an incoming HDR signal. When an SDR signal is detected, it switches back to the normal BT709 setting.


----------



## sammy11

Someone gave me a Epson 5040UB and said they were just going to toss it otherwise. They stated that "the screen had rainbows" even after replacing a bulb.

When I fired it up, this is what I see:

Any ideas on where to start? If I knew which parts to look at or replace I could definitely give it a shot.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Daverey06 said:


> This menu is what I am talking about.
> View attachment 3372872


You should definitely set it to Auto Bright.


----------



## sammy11

sammy11 said:


> View attachment 3372904
> 
> View attachment 3372903
> Someone gave me a Epson 5040UB and said they were just going to toss it otherwise. They stated that "the screen had rainbows" even after replacing a bulb.
> 
> When I fired it up, this is what I see:
> 
> Any ideas on where to start? If I knew which parts to look at or replace I could definitely give it a shot.


So far, I have reset all image settings, and updated the firmware to no avail. I am leaning towards a bad *Polarizer*. I assume there are three different colored 
Polarizers inside this? I have found replacements for the green colored Polarizer only.


----------



## lookingaround

Just got a used 5040ub with 2300 hours on it, noticed that there slight pinching on the left side (trapizode type image). This is my 5th projector in the last 20 years and have never seen any thing like this. I use a laser pointer to center the projector lens to my Silver Ticket screen (106"). Projector is about 2ft down from the ceiling (~14' back) with a peerless multi way mount (yaw and stuff). Reset the projector to factory settings and did not see any change. I'm using slight lens shift and zoom. My firmware ends in 114 as well. Driving this with an Amazon Cube 3. Onkyo 6050 avr (no up-scaling).

My Epson 2150 that it replaced had no issue with getting a square image.

Any ideas? Thanks!!!

Right side is squeezed:











You can see below the Disney+ logo the sliver of the other thumbnail is larger then on the right.










Thanks!!!


----------



## deano86

lookingaround said:


> Just got a used 5040ub with 2300 hours on it, noticed that there slight pinching on the left side (trapizode type image). This is my 5th projector in the last 20 years and have never seen any thing like this. I use a laser pointer to center the projector lens to my Silver Ticket screen (106"). Projector is about 2ft down from the ceiling (~14' back) with a peerless multi way mount (yaw and stuff). Reset the projector to factory settings and did not see any change. I'm using slight lens shift and zoom. My firmware ends in 114 as well. Driving this with an Amazon Cube 3. Onkyo 6050 avr (no up-scaling).
> 
> My Epson 2150 that it replaced had no issue with getting a square image.
> 
> Any ideas? Thanks!!!
> 
> Right side is squeezed:
> 
> View attachment 3379395
> 
> 
> 
> You can see below the Disney+ logo the sliver of the other thumbnail is larger then on the right.
> View attachment 3379396
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!!!


Well, since you did a reset back to factory, I would assume that any possible keystone adjustments from the prior owner are gone... but I would double check that setting. Otherwise, plain and simple, the most likely culprit is your pitch, roll or yaw has been changed when you mounted this projector ....I assume the 5040 is bigger and heavier than your prior model? ... and you need to get your mount squared up to your screen again.


----------



## lookingaround

deano86 said:


> Well, since you did a reset back to factory, I would assume that any possible keystone adjustments from the prior owner are gone... but I would double check that setting. Otherwise, plain and simple, the most likely culprit is your pitch, roll or yaw has been changed when you mounted this projector ....I assume the 5040 is bigger and heavier than your prior model? ... and you need to get your mount squared up to your screen again.


That is what I'm thinking as well. Thanks for the information. I'm wondering if it would help if I raised the projector higher to the ceiling? It is about 2ft hanging down from a pipe (vibrates a bunch also when people walk on the floor above it). Any harm mounting it just a few inches from the ceiling? 

Thanks! Great support at this forum!


----------



## inspector

I'd go shorter, mine is 12 inches.


----------



## deano86

lookingaround said:


> That is what I'm thinking as well. Thanks for the information. I'm wondering if it would help if I raised the projector higher to the ceiling? It is about 2ft hanging down from a pipe (vibrates a bunch also when people walk on the floor above it). Any harm mounting it just a few inches from the ceiling?
> 
> Thanks! Great support at this forum!


I would not raise it higher unless that height is physically more centered on your screen. Introducing more lens shift could make your squaring up process more difficult. You will still be attached to floor joists that are flexing when people walk above. Although, I don't have a lot of experience with projector mounts.... only on installs that I have done for friends...... but I suppose a shorter pipe or even direct to your ceiling would have less noticeable movement. Obviously your room is situated in a way that does not allow for a "back of the room" shelf mount that would be fastened to wall studs that be free from that floor joist flexing?


----------



## roland6465

inspector said:


> I'd go shorter, mine is 12 inches.


If I had a dollar for every time I've said that...


----------



## inspector

...now, that was a good one!!!


----------



## lookingaround

Got it figured out. My issue was not being square, this is my first projector with the lens in the middle. Others were offset and that caused my confusion. 

What is the latest version of the firmware, this is what I have:


----------



## inspector

Yes!


----------



## bigdad56

hi all, I was wondering how long you went before changing out the bulb? I bought the replacement bulb a while ago but have been holding off on putting it in until the one I have is done. It seems that the image is getting slightly darker. I've got almost 3k hours.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## inspector

I changed my original lamp (from 2017) at over 3K hours and didn't notice any more brightness...but, if I were you, I'd change it, especially if it's losing brightness.


----------



## Robert Clark

ruggercb said:


> inspector said:
> 
> 
> 
> My original lamp I changed at 4 years, around 3K hrs. With the new lamp, the brightnness was the same on the new one as the orginal. I think I wasted a lamp.
> 
> I keep it on medium and only high when I view UHD or 3D.
> 
> 
> 
> I can’t remember if it was my OG new 5040, or the warranty replacement new 5040, but I replaced the bulb, looking for the “wow” factor and it wasn’t there! Now on this warranty replacement refurb unit(best of the lot too!) the difference is drastic! This is a ushio bulb. $70 dollars rather than the official $300 ish ones.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Where did you get the $70 Ushio bulb if you mind me asking? I think we're all looking for a reliable replacement bulb


----------



## jesped2

lookingaround said:


> Got it figured out. My issue was not being square, this is my first projector with the lens in the middle. Others were offset and that caused my confusion.
> 
> What is the latest version of the firmware, this is what I have:
> 
> View attachment 3380267


That one (114) is the latest.


----------



## Morphx2

Harpervision bright cinema is rocking on my 4K HDR through Nvidia shield.


----------



## Brian Atlanta

I need some help fired up my 5040 UB tonight fearing the worst been working fine. Tonight lens cover did not open sound from the projector at first fan noise now blue light blinking and the orange light beside it is solid. Any suggestions or do I have the infamous power supply bad or whatever.


----------



## Morphx2

Anyone able to get 4k HDR on the firestick 4k max? 

Sent from my NE2217 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dominic Chan

Morphx2 said:


> Anyone able to get 4k HDR on the firestick 4k max?
> 
> Sent from my NE2217 using Tapatalk


Yes, but not at 60fps.


----------



## Morphx2

Dominic Chan said:


> Yes, but not at 60fps.


Arg, how. I can't seem to choose the chroma subsampling 4:2:2 even for 24hz


----------



## deano86

Brian Atlanta said:


> I need some help fired up my 5040 UB tonight fearing the worst been working fine. Tonight lens cover did not open sound from the projector at first fan noise now blue light blinking and the orange light beside it is solid. Any suggestions or do I have the infamous power supply bad or whatever.


Read your troubleshooting section of your manual....


----------



## Brian Atlanta

deano86 said:


> Read your troubleshooting section of your manual....


Pretty much toast if I read the manual correctly disappointing to say the least loved the picture. After having multiple projectors over the years think its time to move to an 85" TV had 110" screen so taking a hit there but it is what it is. I bought it used with low hours took a gamble and lost thats on me. Will slap my 8350 back up there till I figure out what TV to buy.


----------



## Morphx2

Deleted


----------



## imureh

Need some suggestions on fixing a projector mount rattle. The Cap 4K is creating havoc in my room and this annoying sound has been a recent development. The link to video is attached. It seems to be coming from where the mount attaches to the bass plate. This is a chief mount and the mount slides into the base plate so not sure what I can do to remediate. PJ is a 6040UB









20230108_215927000_iOS.MOV


MOV File



1drv.ms





Let me know if any issues accessing the video. Thanks, Ray


----------



## kklarson

Morphx2 said:


> Anyone able to get 4k HDR on the firestick 4k max?
> 
> Sent from my NE2217 using Tapatalk


Yes, see last photo at The Chromecast with Google TV (aka "Sabrina")...: 3840x2160, 59.93 Hz, 8 bit 4:2:0, BT.2020 HDR. It's the only device I have that can currently do 4K 60 Hz and HDR on Netflix. My Chromecast with Google TV 4K, Tivo Stream 4K, and PC with Nvidia GTX 1050 Ti have all stopped providing 4K 60 Hz *&* HDR (it's one or the other). Chromecast and Tivo have both acknowledged to me that they're working on an HDR problem. Roku Premier+ has never provided it. All of those devices can do 4K 30 Hz and HDR. I haven't tried Apple or Nvidia Shield.


----------



## kklarson

Anyone here able to output 4K 60 Hz and 8-bit 4:2:0 HDR to 5040UB with a *Radeon RX 400/500 series *graphics card? Netflix previously specified an Nvidia graphics card for 4K but their current guidance allows for Radeon RX 400 or newer (How to use Netflix on your Windows computer or tablet). (I have an Nvidia 1050 Ti that previously produced these specs, but more than a year ago it stopped working. I get either 4K 60 Hz or HDR, not both. I have used the custom settings in the control panel.)


----------



## luisalbertokid

kklarson said:


> Anyone here able to output 4K 60 Hz and 8-bit 4:2:0 HDR to 5040UB with a *Radeon RX 400/500 series *graphics card? Netflix previously specified an Nvidia graphics card for 4K but their current guidance allows for Radeon RX 400 or newer (How to use Netflix on your Windows computer or tablet). (I have an Nvidia 1050 Ti that previously produced these specs, but more than a year ago it stopped working. I get either 4K 60 Hz or HDR, not both. I have used the custom settings in the control panel.)


You will be much better served with 23.976 or 24Hz/12 bits/4:2:2 HDR - that the 5040 can do. HDR in 8 bits is terrible, lots of banding...


----------



## kklarson

luisalbertokid said:


> You will be much better served with 23.976 or 24Hz/12 bits/4:2:2 HDR - that the 5040 can do. HDR in 8 bits is terrible, lots of banding...


If I want to get Netflix in 4K and HDR, it's my only option. Yes, on some other streaming services, your parameters are available.


----------



## Brian Atlanta

I spoke to Epson today about my problem which I described above. Was watching football Thursday and the projector went blank no picture. So power light turns blue, status light blinking blue and lens cover opens. Wait a few minutes no picture then power light goes off status light blinks blue lamp light goes to solid orange lens cover closed.

This indicates per Epson and the manual its a bulb issue, the bulb has less than 900 hours and it is an Epson Bulb. So I call the local service center in Atlanta and there is only one but they are maybe 20 minutes from me so I can drop it off. They did go over a few things with me and of course they cannot diagnose it over the phone but they don't think its a bulb issue the ballast power supply could be bad since that powers the bulb if I understood them correctly.

So $135 that is an hourly rate to look at it and diagnose if its the ballast that is $137.40 with 2-2/12 hours labor minus what they have left from the first hour so looking at $500 if its the motherboard its a boat anchor but they are guessing it is not. So I bought it used for $1,050 got a year on it so put $500 into it one heck of a decision, a refurb 4010 is $1499 so even there but a warranty for 2 years and of course now I need to lay out $1,499. I love the 5040 do not care about HDR been running it in SDR and totally happy with it had kept my 8350 slapped it up and of course compared to the 5040 it looks like a 20 year old tv. 

If its $500 inclined to do it but what does everyone think am I nuts?


----------



## kklarson

Brian Atlanta said:


> power light goes off status light blinks blue lamp light goes to solid orange


I think I had the same/similar problem a few months ago. Projector light wouldn't come on and I believe the LEDs indicated a lamp problem per the Projector Light Status section of the manual. My original lamp only had a few hundred hours on it at the most. Fortunately, my refurb 5040UB came with an offer of a free bulb which I had on hand. I replaced the lamp and the problem was resolved.


----------



## jbnpaul

Brian Atlanta said:


> I spoke to Epson today about my problem which I described above. Was watching football Thursday and the projector went blank no picture. So power light turns blue, status light blinking blue and lens cover opens. Wait a few minutes no picture then power light goes off status light blinks blue lamp light goes to solid orange lens cover closed.
> 
> This indicates per Epson and the manual its a bulb issue, the bulb has less than 900 hours and it is an Epson Bulb. So I call the local service center in Atlanta and there is only one but they are maybe 20 minutes from me so I can drop it off. They did go over a few things with me and of course they cannot diagnose it over the phone but they don't think its a bulb issue the ballast power supply could be bad since that powers the bulb if I understood them correctly.
> 
> So $135 that is an hourly rate to look at it and diagnose if its the ballast that is $137.40 with 2-2/12 hours labor minus what they have left from the first hour so looking at $500 if its the motherboard its a boat anchor but they are guessing it is not. So I bought it used for $1,050 got a year on it so put $500 into it one heck of a decision, a refurb 4010 is $1499 so even there but a warranty for 2 years and of course now I need to lay out $1,499. I love the 5040 do not care about HDR been running it in SDR and totally happy with it had kept my 8350 slapped it up and of course compared to the 5040 it looks like a 20 year old tv.
> 
> If its $500 inclined to do it but what does everyone think am I nuts?





Brian Atlanta said:


> I spoke to Epson today about my problem which I described above. Was watching football Thursday and the projector went blank no picture. So power light turns blue, status light blinking blue and lens cover opens. Wait a few minutes no picture then power light goes off status light blinks blue lamp light goes to solid orange lens cover closed.
> 
> If its $500 inclined to do it but what does everyone think am I nuts?


If you are seeing this








try the solutions provided. Everything except trying a me lamp is easy. I would also try another lamp. 

It is pointless to spend 500 to fix a 1000 dollar projector. At that point I will get another used 5040.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## luisalbertokid

kklarson said:


> If I want to get Netflix in 4K and HDR, it's my only option. Yes, on some other streaming services, your parameters are available.


What streaming device do you use? I have the Shield and it's highly customisable on that regard.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Brian Atlanta said:


> I spoke to Epson today about my problem which I described above. Was watching football Thursday and the projector went blank no picture. So power light turns blue, status light blinking blue and lens cover opens. Wait a few minutes no picture then power light goes off status light blinks blue lamp light goes to solid orange lens cover closed.
> 
> This indicates per Epson and the manual its a bulb issue, the bulb has less than 900 hours and it is an Epson Bulb. So I call the local service center in Atlanta and there is only one but they are maybe 20 minutes from me so I can drop it off. They did go over a few things with me and of course they cannot diagnose it over the phone but they don't think its a bulb issue the ballast power supply could be bad since that powers the bulb if I understood them correctly.
> 
> So $135 that is an hourly rate to look at it and diagnose if its the ballast that is $137.40 with 2-2/12 hours labor minus what they have left from the first hour so looking at $500 if its the motherboard its a boat anchor but they are guessing it is not. So I bought it used for $1,050 got a year on it so put $500 into it one heck of a decision, a refurb 4010 is $1499 so even there but a warranty for 2 years and of course now I need to lay out $1,499. I love the 5040 do not care about HDR been running it in SDR and totally happy with it had kept my 8350 slapped it up and of course compared to the 5040 it looks like a 20 year old tv.
> 
> If its $500 inclined to do it but what does everyone think am I nuts?


I had the same issue. Contacted Epson, they told me how to access the service menu, I sent them photos and they diagnosed lamp failure (had + or - 800 hours on it). Bought a new lamp and everything is ok now.


----------

